[ { "path": ".gitignore", "content": "# Byte-compiled / optimized / DLL files\n__pycache__/\n*.py[cod]\n*$py.class\n\n# C extensions\n*.so\n\n# Distribution / packaging\n.Python\nbuild/\ndevelop-eggs/\ndist/\ndownloads/\neggs/\n.eggs/\nlib/\nlib64/\nparts/\nsdist/\nvar/\nwheels/\npip-wheel-metadata/\nshare/python-wheels/\n*.egg-info/\n.installed.cfg\n*.egg\nMANIFEST\n\n# PyInstaller\n# Usually these files are written by a python script from a template\n# before PyInstaller builds the exe, so as to inject date/other infos into it.\n*.manifest\n*.spec\n\n# Installer logs\npip-log.txt\npip-delete-this-directory.txt\n\n# Unit test / coverage reports\nhtmlcov/\n.tox/\n.nox/\n.coverage\n.coverage.*\n.cache\nnosetests.xml\ncoverage.xml\n*.cover\n*.py,cover\n.hypothesis/\n.pytest_cache/\ncover/\n\n# Translations\n*.mo\n*.pot\n\n# Django stuff:\n*.log\nlocal_settings.py\ndb.sqlite3\ndb.sqlite3-journal\n\n# Flask stuff:\ninstance/\n.webassets-cache\n\n# Scrapy stuff:\n.scrapy\n\n# Sphinx documentation\ndocs/_build/\n\n# PyBuilder\ntarget/\n\n# Jupyter Notebook\n.ipynb_checkpoints\n\n# IPython\nprofile_default/\nipython_config.py\n\n# pyenv\n# For a library or package, you might want to ignore these files since the code is\n# intended to run in multiple environments; otherwise, check them in:\n# .python-version\n\n# pipenv\n# According to pypa/pipenv#598, it is recommended to include Pipfile.lock in version control.\n# However, in case of collaboration, if having platform-specific dependencies or dependencies\n# having no cross-platform support, pipenv may install dependencies that don't work, or not\n# install all needed dependencies.\n#Pipfile.lock\n\n# PEP 582; used by e.g. github.com/David-OConnor/pyflow\n__pypackages__/\n\n# Celery stuff\ncelerybeat-schedule\ncelerybeat.pid\n\n# SageMath parsed files\n*.sage.py\n\n# Environments\n.env\n.venv\nenv/\nvenv/\nENV/\nenv.bak/\nvenv.bak/\n\n# Spyder project settings\n.spyderproject\n.spyproject\n\n# Rope project settings\n.ropeproject\n\n# mkdocs documentation\n/site\n\n# mypy\n.mypy_cache/\n.dmypy.json\ndmypy.json\n\n# Pyre type checker\n.pyre/\n\n# pytype static type analyzer\n.pytype/\n\n# Custom\n*.pth\n*.bin\ninput/model*\ninput/google-quest-challenge/*.csv\n!input/google-quest-challenge/*toy.csv\ninput/lid.176.bin\ninput/leak-free-pseudo-labels-100k-stackx/\ninput/sx_dump/\ninput/stackx-large-cased/\npackages/fairseq-hacked/examples/speech_recognition/data/\npackages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/data/\nexperiments/*/checkpoints\nexperiments/1-8-5-head_tail-pretrained-1e-05-210-260-500-26-100/\nexperiments/1-8-5-head_tail-qa-1e-05-210-260-500-26-300/\nexperiments/4-2-5-head_tail-large-1e-05-210-260-500-26-300/\npseudo-predictions/\n.DS_Store\n.idea/\nmag/\n" }, { "path": "README.md", "content": "# Google QUEST Q&A Labeling 1st place solution\n\nBelow you can find an outline of how to reproduce our solution for the Google QUEST Q&A Labeling competition. If you run into any trouble with the setup/code or have any questions please contact me at [yury.kashnitsky@gmail.com](mailto:yury.kashnitsky@gmail.com).\n\nThe solution is also described in [this post](https://www.kaggle.com/c/google-quest-challenge/discussion/129840) on Kaggle, the inference part is fully reproduced in [this Kaggle Notebook](https://www.kaggle.com/ddanevskyi/1st-place-solution).\n\n## Archive contents\n\n[The archive](https://tinyurl.com/t9bjvlm) contains the following files:\n\n- `stackx-base-cased.tar.gz` – pretrained BERT language model, output of step 1 in the [\"Model training\" section](#model-training)\n- `sampled_sx_so.csv.gz` – chunk of StackExchange dump used to generate pseudo-labels\n- `pseudo-100k-3x-blend-no-leak.tar.gz` – pseudo-labels, output of step 2 in the [\"Model training\" section](#model-training)\n\n## Hardware\n- 1 x NVIDIA Quadro P6000\n- 2 x NVIDIA 1080 Ti\n- 5 x NVIDIA 1080 Ti (only for language model training)\n\n## Software and environments\n- Conda 4.7.10 with Python 3.6.6\n- CUDA 10.0.130\n- cuDNN 7.5.0\n- NVIDIA drivers v. 418.67\n\nWe run all experiments in a Conda environment and provide a full list of required packages `requirements_full.txt`. To do the same, run:\n\n - `conda create -n qa_quest_env python=3.6.6`\n - `conda activate qa_quest_env `\n - `pip install -r requirements_full.txt`\n\nHowever, there are a lot of packages listed there which are not much relevant to this project. A minimal list of requirements is specified in `requirements_minimal.txt` which was formed with the `pipreqs` utility. This handy utility crawls project source code and lists all required packages. So you can run `pip install -r requirements_minimal.txt` and then install missing packages on the go (if any).\n\nApart from pip-installable packages, we use a custom lightweight library called [mag](https://github.com/ex4sperans/mag) to keep track of experiments. Also our installation of the `fairseq` library is a bit different (actually, it's hacked for our needs). These two can be installed by running `sh bash/setup.sh`\n\n\n## Model training\n\nFor some of our models, we perform language model finetuning with StackExchange data. Then we run 5-fold cross-validation for 4 models (2 [BERT](https://arxiv.org/abs/1810.04805) ones, one [RoBERTa](https://arxiv.org/abs/1907.11692), and one [BART](https://arxiv.org/abs/1910.13461)) averaging predictions of all 5 model checkpoints for each model type. Finally, blending 4 predictions. In this section, we cover everything related to model training:\n\n 1. Language model finetuning with StackExchange data\n 1. Generating pseudo-labels\n 1. Training BERT-base-cased pretrained with StackExchange\n 1. Training BERT-base-cased pretrained with StackExchange + pseudo-labels\n 1. Training RoBERTa-base with pseudo-labels\n 1. Training BART-large with pseudo-labels\n\n\n### 1. Language model finetuning with StackExchange data\n\n#### 1a. Scraping and processing StackExchange questions and answers\n\nFor this purpose, we download and process StackExchange dumps, to reproduce these steps from scratch for a small subsample, run `sh bash/training/train1a_prepare_stackx_data.sh`. It the same as running the following two commands:\n\n- `python step1_lm_finetuning/data_preparation/scrape_stack_exchange.py`\n- `python step1_lm_finetuning/data_preparation/clean_stack_exchange_qa.py`\n\nSee comments in these files. Also, you can find 2 corresponding Jupyter notebooks in the same folder, just for demonstration of the scraping/cleaning process.\n\nOutput is written to the `input/qa_stackexchange_cleaned.csv` file. This files is needed for the next step.\n\n#### 1b. Fine-tuning BERT language model with StackExchange data:\n\n`sh bash/training/train1b_train_bert_stackx_lang_model.sh` – this runs BERT language model fine-tuning with StackExchange data from the previous step (`input/qa_stackexchange_cleaned.csv`).\n\nThis script writes model checkpoints and training logs to `input/stackx-base-cased`, the following two BERT models use this checkpoint. The checkpoint is also shared as `stackx-base-cased.tar.gz` in the [archive](https://tinyurl.com/t9bjvlm). To go on reproducing results, it's better to unzip contents of `stackx-base-cased.tar.gz` into `input/stackx-base-cased`.\n\n### 2. Generating pseudo-labels\n\n`sh bash/pseudo/create_all_pseudo_labels_toy.sh` – this runs 3 basic models (bert-base, bert-large, and bert-base-pretrained) on the competition data (a toy example, first 50 rows), then creates pseudo-labels using these 3 models, the result is stored in the `pseudo-predictions/pseudo-100k-3x-blend-no-leak/` folder. Run `sh bash/pseudo/create_all_pseudo_labels_toy.sh` (without `_toy`) for the actual generation of pseudo-labels. This requires `sampled_sx_so.csv.gz` from [the shared archive](https://tinyurl.com/t9bjvlm) and results in `pseudo-100k-3x-blend-no-leak.tar.gz` shared in the same archive.\n\n### 3. BERT-base-cased pretrained with StackExchange\n\nTraining 5 BERT-base models (cross-validation): `sh bash/training/train3_bert_base_cased_stackx_pretrained.sh toy`. The result (one model checkpoint for each fold) is written to `input/model1_ckpt`. Full training is done without the `toy` argument, the result is found in [this Kaggle Dataset](kashnitsky/google-qa-quest-labeling-bibimorph-model-1-5-folds).\n\n### 4. BERT-base-cased pretrained with StackExchange + pseudo-labels\n\nTraining 5 BERT-base models (cross-validation): `sh bash/training/train4_bert_base_cased_stackx_with_pseudo_labels.sh toy`. The result is written to `experiments/1-8-5-head_tail-pseudonoleakrandom100k-1e-05-210-260-500-26-200`. Full training is done without the `toy` argument, the result is found in [this Kaggle Dataset](https://www.kaggle.com/yaroshevskiy/bert-base-pretrained).\n\n### 5. RoBERTa-base with pseudo-labels\n\nDownload RoBERTa-base checkpoint by running `sh bash/training/load_roberta_weights.sh`\n\nTraining 5 RoBERTa-base models (cross-validation): `sh bash/training/train5_roberta_with_pseudo_labels.sh`. The result is written to `experiments/2-4-5-head_tail-pseudonoleakrandom100k-1e-05-210-260-500-26-roberta-200` and can also be found in [this Kaggle Dataset](https://www.kaggle.com/ddanevskyi/roberta-base-model) Also, [here](https://www.kaggle.com/dmitriyab/roberta-stackx-base-pl20k) 5 model checkpoints (one per each fold) are stored.\n\n\n### 6. BART-large with pseudo-labels\n\n\nTraining 5 BART-large models (cross-validation): `sh bash/training/train6_bart_with_pseudo_labels.sh toy`. The result is written to `experiments/4-2-5-head_tail-bart-2e-05-210-260-500-26-split_pseudo-250`. Full training is done without the `toy` argument, the result is found in [this Kaggle Dataset](https://www.kaggle.com/yaroshevskiy/bart-large), and [here](https://www.kaggle.com/yaroshevskiy/quest-bart) 5 model checkpoints (one per each fold) are stored.\n\n\n## Inference\nThese are the steps to reproduce our final solution (same as our Kaggle Notebook [1st place solution](https://www.kaggle.com/ddanevskyi/1st-place-solution)). You can just run `sh bash/inference/run_inference.sh` (execution log is found in `logs/all_inference.log`, takes ~10 minutes) to run the whole pipeline (from data loading to forming a submission file). Here is a breakdown of all steps:\n\n1. Make sure you've got a fresh [Kaggle API token](https://www.kaggle.com/docs/api) and download competition data by running `sh bash/download_comp_data.sh`. This will populate `input/google-quest-challenge` with three more CSV files - `train.csv`, `test.csv` and `sample_submission.csv`\n2. Run `sh bash/download_all_model_ckpts_for_inference.sh`. This will download all models needed for inference (about 18 Gb, might take from several minutes to more that an hour depending on Internet speed):\n - BERT checkpoints from [this Dataset](https://www.kaggle.com/kashnitsky/google-qa-quest-labeling-bibimorph-model-1-5-folds) (the result of running steps 1, 3 above)\n - BERT checkpoints from [this Dataset](https://www.kaggle.com/yaroshevskiy/bert-base-pretrained) (the result of running steps 2, 4 above)\n - RoBERTa checkpoints from [this Dataset](https://www.kaggle.com/kashnitsky/google-qa-quest-labeling-bibimorph-model-3-roberta) (the result of running steps 1, 2, 5 above)\n - BART checkpoints from [this Dataset](https://www.kaggle.com/yaroshevskiy/quest-bart) (the result of running steps 2, 6 above)\n\n2. Inference with 5 checkpoints of BERT-base-cased finetuned with StackExchange data: `sh bash/inference/model1_inference.sh`\n3. Same for the BERT model with pseudo-labels: `sh bash/inference/model2_inference.sh`\n4. Inference with with 5 checkpoints of RoBERTa finetuned with StackExchange data, with pseudo-labels: `sh bash/inference/model3_inference.sh`\n5. Inference with with 5 checkpoints of BART with pseudo-labels: `sh bash/inference/model4_inference.sh`\n6. Once inference is done, final steps include blending, and postprocessing model predictions: `sh bash/blending_n_postprocessing.sh`\n\nFinal submission `submissions/submission.csv` scores 0.46893 on the public competition [leaderboard](https://www.kaggle.com/c/google-quest-challenge/leaderboard). To actually submit a CSV file, you can check [this Kaggle Notebook](https://www.kaggle.com/kashnitsky/google-quest-q-a-submit-from-a-csv-file).\n\n" }, { "path": "bash/blending_n_postprocessing.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n\npython step11_final/blending_n_postprocessing.py\n" }, { "path": "bash/download_all_model_ckpts_for_inference.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n\n# model 1\n(kaggle datasets download -d kashnitsky/google-qa-quest-labeling-bibimorph-model-1-5-folds > /dev/null 2>&1 && \\\nunzip google-qa-quest-labeling-bibimorph-model-1-5-folds.zip -d input/model1_ckpt \\\n&& rm google-qa-quest-labeling-bibimorph-model-1-5-folds.zip &)\n\n# model 2\n(kaggle datasets download -d yaroshevskiy/bert-base-pretrained > /dev/null 2>&1 && \\\nunzip bert-base-pretrained.zip -d input/ && bert-base-pretrained.zip && \\\nmv input/stackx-base-cased input/model2_ckpt &)\n\n(kaggle datasets download -d ddanevskyi/bert-base-pseudo-noleak-random > /dev/null 2>&1 && \\\nunzip bert-base-pseudo-noleak-random.zip -d input/model2_ckpt/bert-base-pseudo-noleak-random && \\\nrm bert-base-pseudo-noleak-random.zip)\n\n# model 3\n(kaggle datasets download -d kashnitsky/google-qa-quest-labeling-bibimorph-model-3-roberta > /dev/null 2>&1 && \\\nmkdir input/model3_ckpt/ && \\\nunzip google-qa-quest-labeling-bibimorph-model-3-roberta.zip -d input/model3_ckpt/folds && \\\nrm google-qa-quest-labeling-bibimorph-model-3-roberta.zip &)\n\n(kaggle datasets download -d ddanevskyi/roberta-base-model > /dev/null 2>&1 && \\\nunzip roberta-base-model.zip -d input/model3_ckpt/roberta-base-model && \\\nrm roberta-base-model.zip &)\n\n# model 4\n(kaggle datasets download -d yaroshevskiy/quest-bart > /dev/null 2>&1 && \\\nunzip quest-bart.zip -d input/model4_ckpt && rm quest-bart.zip && \\\nkaggle datasets download -d yaroshevskiy/bart-large > /dev/null 2>&1 && \\\nunzip bart-large.zip -d input/model4_ckpt && rm bart-large.zip &)\n\n" }, { "path": "bash/download_comp_data.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n\n# competition data\n(kaggle competitions download -c google-quest-challenge && \\\nunzip google-quest-challenge.zip; rm google-quest-challenge.zip; mv *.csv input/google-quest-challenge &)\n" }, { "path": "bash/inference/model1_inference.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n\npython steps7_10_inference/model1_bert_code/predict_test.py \\\n --model_dir input/model1_ckpt/ \\\n --data_path input/google-quest-challenge/ \\\n --sub_file submissions/model1_submission.csv \\\n > logs/model1_inference.log 2>&1\n" }, { "path": "bash/inference/model2_inference.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n\npython steps7_10_inference/model2_bert_code/run.py \\\n --sub_file=submissions/model2_bert_base_cased_pred.csv \\\n --data_path=input/google-quest-challenge/ \\\n --max_sequence_length=500 \\\n --max_title_length=26 \\\n --max_question_length=260 \\\n --max_answer_length=210 \\\n --batch_size=8 \\\n --bert_model=input/model2_ckpt/ \\\n --checkpoints=input/model2_ckpt/bert-base-pseudo-noleak-random \\\n > logs/model2_inference.log 2>&1\n" }, { "path": "bash/inference/model3_inference.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n\n# some mag setup to go on with the Experiment\nROBERTA_EXPERIMENT_DIR=2-4-roberta-base-saved-5-head_tail-roberta-stackx-base-v2-pl1kksample20k-1e-05-210-260-500-26-roberta-200\nOUTPUT_DIR=submissions/model3_roberta-base-output\n \ncp -r input/model3_ckpt/folds/* experiments/$ROBERTA_EXPERIMENT_DIR\n\npython steps7_10_inference/model3_roberta_code/infer.py \\\n --experiment=$ROBERTA_EXPERIMENT_DIR \\\n --checkpoint=best_model.pth \\\n --bert_model=input/model3_ckpt/roberta-base-model/ \\\n --dataframe=input/google-quest-challenge/test.csv \\\n --output_dir=$OUTPUT_DIR \\\n > logs/model3_inference.log 2>&1\n" }, { "path": "bash/inference/model4_inference.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n\npython steps7_10_inference/model4_bart_code/run.py \\\n --sub_file=submissions/model4_bart_large_pred.csv \\\n --data_path=input/google-quest-challenge/ \\\n --max_sequence_length=500 \\\n --max_title_length=26 \\\n --max_question_length=260 \\\n --max_answer_length=210 \\\n --batch_size=4 \\\n --bert_model=input/model4_ckpt/bart.large/ \\\n > logs/model4_inference.log 2>&1\n" }, { "path": "bash/inference/run_inference.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n\n#echo \"Downloading all model checkpoints\" && \\\n#sh bash/download_all_model_ckpts_for_inference.sh && \\\n\necho \"Inference with the 1st model (BERT-base-cased)\" && \\\nsh bash/inference/model1_inference.sh && \\\n\necho \"Inference with the 2nd model (BERT-base-cased with pseudo-labels)\" && \\\nsh bash/inference/model2_inference.sh && \\\n\necho \"Inference with the 3rd model (RoBERTa with pseudo-labels)\" && \\\nsh bash/inference/model3_inference.sh && \\\n\necho \"Inference with the 4th model (BART with pseudo-labels)\" && \\\nsh bash/inference/model4_inference.sh && \\\n\necho \"Blending and postprocessing\" && \\\nsh bash/blending_n_postprocessing.sh \\\n\n" }, { "path": "bash/pseudo/create_all_pseudo_labels.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n\n# train three models\nsh bash/pseudo/train_base.sh && \\\nsh bash/pseudo/train_base_pretrained.sh && \\\nsh bash/pseudo/train_large.sh\n\n# create pseudo-labels with all models\nsh bash/pseudo/create_pseudo_base.sh && \\\nsh bash/pseudo/create_pseudo_base_pretrained.sh && \\\nsh bash/pseudo/create_pseudo_large.sh\n\n# blend pseudo-labels\npython step2_pseudo_labeling/blend_pseudo.py\n" }, { "path": "bash/pseudo/create_all_pseudo_labels_toy.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n\n# train three models\nsh bash/pseudo/train_base.sh toy && \\\nsh bash/pseudo/train_base_pretrained.sh toy && \\\nsh bash/pseudo/train_large.sh toy\n\n# create pseudo-labels with all models\nsh bash/pseudo/create_pseudo_base.sh toy && \\\nsh bash/pseudo/create_pseudo_base_pretrained.sh toy && \\\nsh bash/pseudo/create_pseudo_large.sh toy\n\n# blend pseudo-labels\npython step2_pseudo_labeling/blend_pseudo.py toy\n" }, { "path": "bash/pseudo/create_pseudo_base.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n\ntoy=${1:-False}\n\nif [ $toy = 'toy' ]; then\n dataframe=input/qa_stackexchange_cleaned_toy.csv\nelse\n dataframe=input/qa_stackexchange_cleaned.csv\nfi\n\npython step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-base/infer_pseudo.py \\\n --experiment=experiments/1-8-5-head_tail-qa-1e-05-210-260-500-26-300 \\\n --checkpoint=best_model.pth \\\n --dataframe=$dataframe\t\t\t \\\n --output_dir=pseudo-predictions/base/\n" }, { "path": "bash/pseudo/create_pseudo_base_pretrained.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n\ntoy=${1:-False}\n\nif [ $toy = 'toy' ]; then\n dataframe=input/qa_stackexchange_cleaned_toy.csv\nelse\n dataframe=input/qa_stackexchange_cleaned.csv\nfi\n\npython step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-base-pretrained/infer_pseudo.py \\\n --experiment=experiments/1-8-5-head_tail-pretrained-1e-05-210-260-500-26-100 \\\n --checkpoint=best_model.pth \\\n --dataframe=$dataframe\t\t\t \\\n --output_dir=pseudo-predictions/base-pretrained/\n" }, { "path": "bash/pseudo/create_pseudo_large.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n\ntoy=${1:-False}\n\nif [ $toy = 'toy' ]; then\n dataframe=input/qa_stackexchange_cleaned_toy.csv\nelse\n dataframe=input/qa_stackexchange_cleaned.csv\nfi\n\npython step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-large/infer_pseudo.py \\\n --experiment=experiments/4-2-5-head_tail-large-1e-05-210-260-500-26-300 \\\n --checkpoint=best_model.pth \\\n --dataframe=$dataframe\t\t\t \\\n --output_dir=pseudo-predictions/large/\n" }, { "path": "bash/pseudo/train_base.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n\ntoy=${1:-False}\n\nif [ $toy = 'toy' ]; then\n epochs=1\nelse \n epochs=5\nfi\n\npython step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-base/run.py \\\n --epochs=$epochs \\\n --max_sequence_length=500 \\\n --max_title_length=26 \\\n --max_question_length=260 \\\n --max_answer_length=210 \\\n --data_path=input/google-quest-challenge/ \\\n --batch_accumulation=1 \\\n --batch_size=8 \\\n --warmup=300 \\\n --lr=1e-5 \\\n --bert_model=bert-base-uncased \\\n --toy=$toy\n" }, { "path": "bash/pseudo/train_base_pretrained.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n\ntoy=${1:-False}\n\nif [ $toy = 'toy' ]; then\n epochs=1\nelse\n epochs=3\nfi\n\npython step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-base-pretrained/run.py \\\n --epochs=$epochs \\\n --max_sequence_length=500 \\\n --max_title_length=26 \\\n --max_question_length=260 \\\n --max_answer_length=210 \\\n --data_path=input/google-quest-challenge/ \\\n --batch_accumulation=1 \\\n --batch_size=8 \\\n --warmup=100 \\\n --lr=1e-5 \\\n --bert_model=input/stackx-base-cased \\\n --label=pretrained \\\n --toy=$toy\n" }, { "path": "bash/pseudo/train_large.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n\ntoy=${1:-False}\n\nif [ $toy = 'toy' ]; then\n epochs=1\nelse\n epochs=5\nfi\n\npython step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-large/run.py \\\n --epochs=$epochs \\\n --max_sequence_length=500 \\\n --max_title_length=26 \\\n --max_question_length=260 \\\n --max_answer_length=210 \\\n --data_path=input/google-quest-challenge/ \\\n --batch_accumulation=4 \\\n --batch_size=2 \\\n --warmup=300 \\\n --lr=1e-5 \\\n --bert_model=bert-large-uncased \\\n --label=large \\\n --toy=$toy\n" }, { "path": "bash/setup.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n\n# install mag,\n# a custom lightweight library to keep track of experiments\ngit clone https://github.com/ex4sperans/mag.git\ncd mag; python setup.py install; cd ../;\n\n# install hacked version of fairseq\n# Sorry, this is very-very hacky and ugly but works\nexport PATH_TO_GPT2BPE=packages/gpt2bpe; \\\nexport PATH_TO_BART_MODEL=input/model4_ckpt/bart.large/; \\\ncd packages/fairseq-hacked/; python setup.py develop; cd ../..\n" }, { "path": "bash/training/load_roberta_weights.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n\nmkdir input/roberta-base/; \\\nwget https://s3.amazonaws.com/models.huggingface.co/bert/roberta-base-config.json -O input/roberta-base/config.json;\\\nwget https://s3.amazonaws.com/models.huggingface.co/bert/roberta-base-vocab.json -O input/roberta-base/vocab.json;\\\nwget https://s3.amazonaws.com/models.huggingface.co/bert/roberta-base-merges.txt -O input/roberta-base/merges.json;\\\nwget https://s3.amazonaws.com/models.huggingface.co/bert/roberta-base-pytorch_model.bin -O input/roberta-base/pytorch_model.bin" }, { "path": "bash/training/train1a_prepare_stackx_data.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n\n# scraping StackExchange\npython step1_lm_finetuning/data_preparation/scrape_stack_exchange.py\n\n# processing results\npython step1_lm_finetuning/data_preparation/clean_stack_exchange_qa.py" }, { "path": "bash/training/train1b_train_bert_stackx_lang_model.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n\npython step1_lm_finetuning/train_stackx_lm.py" }, { "path": "bash/training/train2_pseudo_labels.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n\n# actually not needed here, just for consistency\nsh bash/pseudo/create_all_pseudo_labels.sh" }, { "path": "bash/training/train3_bert_base_cased_stackx_pretrained.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n\ntoy=${1:-False}\n\npython step3_model1_bert_code/train.py $toy\n" }, { "path": "bash/training/train4_bert_base_cased_stackx_with_pseudo_labels.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n\ntoy=${1:-False}\n\nif [ $toy = 'toy' ]; then\n epochs=1\n n_pseudo=20\nelse\n epochs=5\n n_pseudo=20000\nfi\n\npython step4_model2_bert_code/run.py \\\n --epochs=$epochs \\\n --max_sequence_length=500 \\\n --max_title_length=26 \\\n --max_question_length=260 \\\n --max_answer_length=210 \\\n --data_path=input/google-quest-challenge \\\n --batch_accumulation=1 \\\n --batch_size=8 \\\n --warmup=200 \\\n --lr=1e-5 \\\n --bert_model=input/stackx-base-cased \\\n --label=pseudonoleakrandom100k \\\n --pseudo_file pseudo-predictions/pseudo-100k-3x-blend-no-leak/fold-{}.csv.gz \\\n --n_pseudo=$n_pseudo \\\n --toy=$toy\n\n" }, { "path": "bash/training/train5_roberta_with_pseudo_labels.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n\ntoy=${1:-False}\n\nif [ $toy = 'toy' ]; then\n epochs=1\nelse\n epochs=5\nfi\n\npython step5_model3_roberta_code/run.py \\\n --epochs=5 \\\n --max_sequence_length=500 \\\n --max_title_length=26 \\\n --max_question_length=260 \\\n --max_answer_length=210 \\\n --data_path=input/google-quest-challenge \\\n --batch_accumulation=2 \\\n --batch_size=4 \\\n --warmup=200 \\\n --lr=1e-5 \\\n --bert_model=input/roberta-base \\\n --label=pseudonoleakrandom100k \\\n --pseudo_file pseudo-predictions/pseudo-100k-3x-blend-no-leak/fold-{}.csv.gz \\\n --n_pseudo=20000 \\\n --model_type=roberta \\\n --toy=$toy\n\n" }, { "path": "bash/training/train6_bart_with_pseudo_labels.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n\ntoy=${1:-False}\n\nif [ $toy = 'toy' ]; then\n epochs=1\nelse\n epochs=4\nfi\n\npython step6_model4_bart_code/run.py \\\n --data_path=input/google-quest-challenge \\\n --epochs=$epochs \\\n --max_sequence_length=500 \\\n --max_title_length=26 \\\n --max_question_length=260 \\\n --max_answer_length=210 \\\n --batch_accumulation=4 \\\n --batch_size=2 \\\n --warmup=250 \\\n --lr=2e-5 \\\n --bert_model=input/model4_ckpt/bart.large/ \\\n --pseudo_file=pseudo-predictions/pseudo-100k-3x-blend-no-leak/fold-{}.csv.gz \\\n --split_pseudo \\\n --leak_free_pseudo \\\n --label=bart \\\n --toy=$toy\n" }, { "path": "experiments/1-8-5-head_tail-pseudonoleakrandom100k-1e-05-210-260-500-26-200/command", "content": "step4_model2_bert_code/run.py --epochs=5 --max_sequence_length=500 --max_title_length=26 --max_question_length=260 --max_answer_length=210 --data_path=input/google-quest-challenge --batch_accumulation=1 --batch_size=8 --warmup=200 --lr=1e-5 --bert_model=input/stackx-base-cased --label=pseudonoleakrandom100k --pseudo_file pseudo-predictions/pseudo-100k-3x-blend-no-leak/fold-{}.csv.gz --n_pseudo=20000 --toy=False\n" }, { "path": "experiments/1-8-5-head_tail-pseudonoleakrandom100k-1e-05-210-260-500-26-200/commit_hash", "content": "5386dc5f3ba53b28bbe7628630cb365ccac00122" }, { "path": "experiments/1-8-5-head_tail-pseudonoleakrandom100k-1e-05-210-260-500-26-200/config.json", "content": "{\n \"_bert_model\": \"input/stackx-base-cased\",\n \"_pseudo_file\": \"pseudo-predictions/pseudo-100k-3x-blend-no-leak/fold-{}.csv.gz\",\n \"_seed\": 42,\n \"batch_accumulation\": 1,\n \"batch_size\": 8,\n \"folds\": 5,\n \"head_tail\": true,\n \"label\": \"pseudonoleakrandom100k\",\n \"lr\": 1e-05,\n \"max_answer_length\": 210,\n \"max_question_length\": 260,\n \"max_sequence_length\": 500,\n \"max_title_length\": 26,\n \"warmup\": 200\n}" }, { "path": "experiments/2-4-5-head_tail-pseudonoleakrandom100k-1e-05-210-260-500-26-roberta-200/command", "content": "step5_model3_roberta_code/run.py --epochs=5 --max_sequence_length=500 --max_title_length=26 --max_question_length=260 --max_answer_length=210 --data_path=input/google-quest-challenge --batch_accumulation=2 --batch_size=4 --warmup=200 --lr=1e-5 --bert_model=input/roberta-base --label=pseudonoleakrandom100k --pseudo_file pseudo-predictions/pseudo-100k-3x-blend-no-leak/fold-{}.csv.gz --n_pseudo=20000 --model_type=roberta --toy=False\n" }, { "path": "experiments/2-4-5-head_tail-pseudonoleakrandom100k-1e-05-210-260-500-26-roberta-200/commit_hash", "content": "1c4ae95b166fc5aea653bef3b4ecda64fbdbe9cf" }, { "path": "experiments/2-4-5-head_tail-pseudonoleakrandom100k-1e-05-210-260-500-26-roberta-200/config.json", "content": "{\n \"_bert_model\": \"input/roberta-base\",\n \"_pseudo_file\": \"pseudo-predictions/pseudo-100k-3x-blend-no-leak/fold-{}.csv.gz\",\n \"_seed\": 42,\n \"batch_accumulation\": 2,\n \"batch_size\": 4,\n \"folds\": 5,\n \"head_tail\": true,\n \"label\": \"pseudonoleakrandom100k\",\n \"lr\": 1e-05,\n \"max_answer_length\": 210,\n \"max_question_length\": 260,\n \"max_sequence_length\": 500,\n \"max_title_length\": 26,\n \"model_type\": \"roberta\",\n \"warmup\": 200\n}" }, { "path": "experiments/2-4-roberta-base-saved-5-head_tail-roberta-stackx-base-v2-pl1kksample20k-1e-05-210-260-500-26-roberta-200/config.json", "content": "{\"_seed\": 42, \"batch_accumulation\": 2, \"batch_size\": 4, \"bert_model\": \"roberta-base-saved\", \"folds\": 5, \"head_tail\": true, \"label\": \"roberta-stackx-base-v2-pl1kksample20k\", \"lr\": 1e-05, \"max_answer_length\": 210, \"max_question_length\": 260, \"max_sequence_length\": 500, \"max_title_length\": 26, \"model_type\": \"roberta\", \"warmup\": 200}" }, { "path": "experiments/2-4-roberta-base-saved-5-head_tail-roberta-stackx-base-v2-pl1kksample20k-1e-05-210-260-500-26-roberta-200/config_train.json", "content": "{\n \"_pseudo_file\": \"/data/dis/monty/common_crawl/1kk/pseudo-1kk-blend-fold-{}.csv.gz\",\n \"_seed\": 42,\n \"batch_accumulation\": 2,\n \"batch_size\": 4,\n \"bert_model\": \"/data/dis/monty/pretrained_transformers/roberta_stackx_base_2\",\n \"folds\": 5,\n \"head_tail\": true,\n \"label\": \"roberta-stackx-base-v2-pl1kksample20k\",\n \"lr\": 1e-05,\n \"max_answer_length\": 210,\n \"max_question_length\": 260,\n \"max_sequence_length\": 500,\n \"max_title_length\": 26,\n \"model_type\": \"roberta\",\n \"warmup\": 200\n}" }, { "path": "experiments/4-2-5-head_tail-bart-2e-05-210-260-500-26-split_pseudo-250/command", "content": "step6_model4_bart_code/run.py --data_path=input/google-quest-challenge --epochs=1 --max_sequence_length=500 --max_title_length=26 --max_question_length=260 --max_answer_length=210 --batch_accumulation=4 --batch_size=2 --warmup=250 --lr=2e-5 --bert_model=input/model4_ckpt/bart.large/ --pseudo_file=pseudo-predictions/pseudo-100k-3x-blend-no-leak/fold-{}.csv.gz --split_pseudo --leak_free_pseudo --label=bart --toy=toy\n" }, { "path": "experiments/4-2-5-head_tail-bart-2e-05-210-260-500-26-split_pseudo-250/commit_hash", "content": "5386dc5f3ba53b28bbe7628630cb365ccac00122" }, { "path": "experiments/4-2-5-head_tail-bart-2e-05-210-260-500-26-split_pseudo-250/config.json", "content": "{\n \"_bert_model\": \"input/model4_ckpt/bart.large/\",\n \"_pseudo_file\": \"pseudo-predictions/pseudo-100k-3x-blend-no-leak/fold-{}.csv.gz\",\n \"_seed\": 42,\n \"batch_accumulation\": 4,\n \"batch_size\": 2,\n \"folds\": 5,\n \"head_tail\": true,\n \"label\": \"bart\",\n \"lr\": 2e-05,\n \"max_answer_length\": 210,\n \"max_question_length\": 260,\n \"max_sequence_length\": 500,\n \"max_title_length\": 26,\n \"split_pseudo\": true,\n \"warmup\": 250\n}" }, { "path": "input/google-quest-challenge/sample_submission_toy.csv", "content": "qa_id,question_asker_intent_understanding,question_body_critical,question_conversational,question_expect_short_answer,question_fact_seeking,question_has_commonly_accepted_answer,question_interestingness_others,question_interestingness_self,question_multi_intent,question_not_really_a_question,question_opinion_seeking,question_type_choice,question_type_compare,question_type_consequence,question_type_definition,question_type_entity,question_type_instructions,question_type_procedure,question_type_reason_explanation,question_type_spelling,question_well_written,answer_helpful,answer_level_of_information,answer_plausible,answer_relevance,answer_satisfaction,answer_type_instructions,answer_type_procedure,answer_type_reason_explanation,answer_well_written\n39,0.0030800000000000003,0.0030800000000000003,0.0030800000000000003,0.0030800000000000003,0.0030800000000000003,0.0030800000000000003,0.0030800000000000003,0.0030800000000000003,0.0030800000000000003,0.0030800000000000003,0.0030800000000000003,0.0030800000000000003,0.0030800000000000003,0.0030800000000000003,0.0030800000000000003,0.0030800000000000003,0.0030800000000000003,0.0030800000000000003,0.0030800000000000003,0.0030800000000000003,0.0030800000000000003,0.0030800000000000003,0.0030800000000000003,0.0030800000000000003,0.0030800000000000003,0.0030800000000000003,0.0030800000000000003,0.0030800000000000003,0.0030800000000000003,0.0030800000000000003\n46,0.00448,0.00448,0.00448,0.00448,0.00448,0.00448,0.00448,0.00448,0.00448,0.00448,0.00448,0.00448,0.00448,0.00448,0.00448,0.00448,0.00448,0.00448,0.00448,0.00448,0.00448,0.00448,0.00448,0.00448,0.00448,0.00448,0.00448,0.00448,0.00448,0.00448\n70,0.00673,0.00673,0.00673,0.00673,0.00673,0.00673,0.00673,0.00673,0.00673,0.00673,0.00673,0.00673,0.00673,0.00673,0.00673,0.00673,0.00673,0.00673,0.00673,0.00673,0.00673,0.00673,0.00673,0.00673,0.00673,0.00673,0.00673,0.00673,0.00673,0.00673\n132,0.01401,0.01401,0.01401,0.01401,0.01401,0.01401,0.01401,0.01401,0.01401,0.01401,0.01401,0.01401,0.01401,0.01401,0.01401,0.01401,0.01401,0.01401,0.01401,0.01401,0.01401,0.01401,0.01401,0.01401,0.01401,0.01401,0.01401,0.01401,0.01401,0.01401\n200,0.02074,0.02074,0.02074,0.02074,0.02074,0.02074,0.02074,0.02074,0.02074,0.02074,0.02074,0.02074,0.02074,0.02074,0.02074,0.02074,0.02074,0.02074,0.02074,0.02074,0.02074,0.02074,0.02074,0.02074,0.02074,0.02074,0.02074,0.02074,0.02074,0.02074\n245,0.02494,0.02494,0.02494,0.02494,0.02494,0.02494,0.02494,0.02494,0.02494,0.02494,0.02494,0.02494,0.02494,0.02494,0.02494,0.02494,0.02494,0.02494,0.02494,0.02494,0.02494,0.02494,0.02494,0.02494,0.02494,0.02494,0.02494,0.02494,0.02494,0.02494\n257,0.02635,0.02635,0.02635,0.02635,0.02635,0.02635,0.02635,0.02635,0.02635,0.02635,0.02635,0.02635,0.02635,0.02635,0.02635,0.02635,0.02635,0.02635,0.02635,0.02635,0.02635,0.02635,0.02635,0.02635,0.02635,0.02635,0.02635,0.02635,0.02635,0.02635\n267,0.02719,0.02719,0.02719,0.02719,0.02719,0.02719,0.02719,0.02719,0.02719,0.02719,0.02719,0.02719,0.02719,0.02719,0.02719,0.02719,0.02719,0.02719,0.02719,0.02719,0.02719,0.02719,0.02719,0.02719,0.02719,0.02719,0.02719,0.02719,0.02719,0.02719\n284,0.028589999999999997,0.028589999999999997,0.028589999999999997,0.028589999999999997,0.028589999999999997,0.028589999999999997,0.028589999999999997,0.028589999999999997,0.028589999999999997,0.028589999999999997,0.028589999999999997,0.028589999999999997,0.028589999999999997,0.028589999999999997,0.028589999999999997,0.028589999999999997,0.028589999999999997,0.028589999999999997,0.028589999999999997,0.028589999999999997,0.028589999999999997,0.028589999999999997,0.028589999999999997,0.028589999999999997,0.028589999999999997,0.028589999999999997,0.028589999999999997,0.028589999999999997,0.028589999999999997,0.028589999999999997\n292,0.029710000000000004,0.029710000000000004,0.029710000000000004,0.029710000000000004,0.029710000000000004,0.029710000000000004,0.029710000000000004,0.029710000000000004,0.029710000000000004,0.029710000000000004,0.029710000000000004,0.029710000000000004,0.029710000000000004,0.029710000000000004,0.029710000000000004,0.029710000000000004,0.029710000000000004,0.029710000000000004,0.029710000000000004,0.029710000000000004,0.029710000000000004,0.029710000000000004,0.029710000000000004,0.029710000000000004,0.029710000000000004,0.029710000000000004,0.029710000000000004,0.029710000000000004,0.029710000000000004,0.029710000000000004\n" }, { "path": "input/google-quest-challenge/test_toy.csv", "content": "qa_id,question_title,question_body,question_user_name,question_user_page,answer,answer_user_name,answer_user_page,url,category,host\n39,Will leaving corpses lying around upset my prisoners?,\"I see questions/information online about how to get rid of corpses but I'm not sure what the consequences to having them lying around are.\n\nI know that I can use a morgue to store them and that they will eventually be taken away in a hearse. However, I've always just left them lying around. This doesn't seem to have any obvious consequences.\n\nDo they upset prisoners or staff (e.g. increasing the danger level beyond what death normally does)? Make them sick? Slow down pathing? Is this something that's not implemented yet or is leaving dead bodies all over the place meant to be completely fine?\n\nThe wiki's pages for Death and Morgue don't shed any light on this. All I'm finding is the how of getting rid of corpses/glitches related to it but not why it matters in the first place. All I've seen that's related is that apparently prisoners can loot guard corpses for keys, but there's no obvious consequences for prisoner corpses which are what I tend to end up with.\n\nSo why not just leave them in the corridors?\n\",Dylan,https://gaming.stackexchange.com/users/64471,\"There is no consequence for leaving corpses anywhere. All it does if leave a mark of failure in your path of making a fully functional prison.\n\",Nelson868,https://gaming.stackexchange.com/users/97324,http://gaming.stackexchange.com/questions/197934/will-leaving-corpses-lying-around-upset-my-prisoners,CULTURE,gaming.stackexchange.com\n46,Url link to feature image in the portfolio,\"I am new to Wordpress. i have issue with Feature image. just i need to add URL to feature image(when we click on that feature image , it should redirect to that particular URL).\n\nalso is it possible to give URL to Title of the Portfolio categories page which i used in normal page.\n\n\n\nThis is Portfolio , i have used in the \"\"mypage\"\" . so in that\"\" mypage\"\" when we click on that image and title it should be redirect to the link (should able to give individual link)\n\n\n\nAny help would be appreciated. Thanks.\n\",Anu,https://wordpress.stackexchange.com/users/72927,\"I think it is possible with custom fields.\n\nAdd a custom fields, for example, named link. Put the link into the value field. Then you will be able to access it something like that:\n\n<a href=\"\"<?php echo get_post_meta( get_the_ID(), 'link', true ); ?>\"\">\n <?php the_post_thumbnail(); ?>\n</a>\n\n\",Irina,https://wordpress.stackexchange.com/users/27233,http://wordpress.stackexchange.com/questions/187970/url-link-to-feature-image-in-the-portfolio,TECHNOLOGY,wordpress.stackexchange.com\n70,\"Is accuracy, recoil or bullet spread affected by enemy hits?\",\"To experiment I started a bot game, toggled invincibility and let the bots attack me. There were two clear hit effects: a major one that tilts view up a lot and sideways and a minor one that only tilts it up.\n\nSo I tried releasing single shots exactly at the tilts: during a major one a single bullet ended up here (slightly covered by text). Actually the crosshair never moves that high so there tends to be a good amount of additional upward deviation of single shots fired.\n\nBut when single-shooting during the minor tilts the marks seemed to end up exactly at the location of the crosshair.\n\nNow, when switching to spraying while being shot this pattern emerged. This was mostly caused by the minor tilts and, I guess, \"\"standard recoil\"\". Occasionally a major tilt caused a single bullet to lie severly outside of the depicted cone.\n\",Konsta,https://gaming.stackexchange.com/users/37545,\"You do not have armour in the screenshots. This suggests you are being affected by a large amount of aim punch.\n\",Damon Smithies,https://gaming.stackexchange.com/users/70641,http://gaming.stackexchange.com/questions/215490/is-accuracy-recoil-or-bullet-spread-affected-by-enemy-hits,CULTURE,gaming.stackexchange.com\n132,Suddenly got an I/O error from my external HDD,\"I have used my Raspberry Pi as a torrent-server for quite a while now. My Western Digital \"\"My Passport-Ultra\"\" external HDD and Transmission running on RPi has worked flawlessly for more than a year. Suddenly last week my setup started producing I/O errors and now when I SSH into my RPi I cant find the HDD folder. \n\nI have not changed anything with my RPi or the torrent-server setup since I set it up.\n\nCan someone help me find a solution to my problem?\n\nEDIT:\n\nThe external HHD works fine the first 20 minutes or so, and then Transmisson gives me \"\"Error: Input/output error\"\".\n\nlsusb -t output:\n\n/: Bus 01.Port 1: Dev 1, Class=root_hub, Driver=dwc_otg/1p, 480M\n |__ Port 1: Dev 2, If 0, Class=hub, Driver=hub/3p, 480M\n |__ Port 1: Dev 3, If 0, Class=vend., Driver=smsc95xx, 480M\n |__ Port 3: Dev 4, If 0, Class=stor., Driver=usb-storage, 480M\n\nlsusb -t output after a while:\n\n/: Bus 01.Port 1: Dev 1, Class=root_hub, Driver=dwc_otg/1p, 480M\n |__ Port 1: Dev 2, If 0, Class=hub, Driver=hub/3p, 480M\n |__ Port 1: Dev 3, If 0, Class=vend., Driver=smsc95xx, 480M\n\nmount output:\n\n/dev/root on / type ext4 (rw,noatime,data=ordered)\ndevtmpfs on /dev type devtmpfs (rw,relatime,size=216132k,nr_inodes=54033,mode=755)\ntmpfs on /run type tmpfs (rw,nosuid,noexec,relatime,size=44880k,mode=755)\ntmpfs on /run/lock type tmpfs (rw,nosuid,nodev,noexec,relatime,size=5120k)\nproc on /proc type proc (rw,nosuid,nodev,noexec,relatime)\nsysfs on /sys type sysfs (rw,nosuid,nodev,noexec,relatime)\ntmpfs on /run/shm type tmpfs (rw,nosuid,nodev,noexec,relatime,size=89740k)\ndevpts on /dev/pts type devpts (rw,nosuid,noexec,relatime,gid=5,mode=620)\n/dev/mmcblk0p5 on /boot type vfat (rw,relatime,fmask=0022,dmask=0022,codepage=cp437,iocharset=ascii,shortname=mixed,errors=remount-ro)\nfusectl on /sys/fs/fuse/connections type fusectl (rw,relatime)\n/dev/sda1 on /NAS/USBHDD type fuseblk (rw,nosuid,nodev,noatime,user_id=0,group_id=0,allow_other,blksize=4096)\n\n\n\n\n\nlsusb -v output:\n\nBus 001 Device 002: ID 0424:9512 Standard Microsystems Corp.\nCouldn't open device, some information will be missing\nDevice Descriptor:\n bLength 18\n bDescriptorType 1\n bcdUSB 2.00\n bDeviceClass 9 Hub\n bDeviceSubClass 0 Unused\n bDeviceProtocol 2 TT per port\n bMaxPacketSize0 64\n idVendor 0x0424 Standard Microsystems Corp.\n idProduct 0x9512\n bcdDevice 2.00\n iManufacturer 0\n iProduct 0\n iSerial 0\n bNumConfigurations 1\n Configuration Descriptor:\n bLength 9\n bDescriptorType 2\n wTotalLength 41\n bNumInterfaces 1\n bConfigurationValue 1\n iConfiguration 0\n bmAttributes 0xe0\n Self Powered\n Remote Wakeup\n MaxPower 2mA\n Interface Descriptor:\n bLength 9\n bDescriptorType 4\n bInterfaceNumber 0\n bAlternateSetting 0\n bNumEndpoints 1\n bInterfaceClass 9 Hub\n bInterfaceSubClass 0 Unused\n bInterfaceProtocol 1 Single TT\n iInterface 0\n Endpoint Descriptor:\n bLength 7\n bDescriptorType 5\n bEndpointAddress 0x81 EP 1 IN\n bmAttributes 3\n Transfer Type Interrupt\n Synch Type None\n Usage Type Data\n wMaxPacketSize 0x0001 1x 1 bytes\n bInterval 12\n Interface Descriptor:\n bLength 9\n bDescriptorType 4\n bInterfaceNumber 0\n bAlternateSetting 1\n bNumEndpoints 1\n bInterfaceClass 9 Hub\n bInterfaceSubClass 0 Unused\n bInterfaceProtocol 2 TT per port\n iInterface 0\n Endpoint Descriptor:\n bLength 7\n bDescriptorType 5\n bEndpointAddress 0x81 EP 1 IN\n bmAttributes 3\n Transfer Type Interrupt\n Synch Type None\n Usage Type Data\n wMaxPacketSize 0x0001 1x 1 bytes\n bInterval 12\n\nBus 001 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub\nCouldn't open device, some information will be missing\nDevice Descriptor:\n bLength 18\n bDescriptorType 1\n bcdUSB 2.00\n bDeviceClass 9 Hub\n bDeviceSubClass 0 Unused\n bDeviceProtocol 1 Single TT\n bMaxPacketSize0 64\n idVendor 0x1d6b Linux Foundation\n idProduct 0x0002 2.0 root hub\n bcdDevice 3.06\n iManufacturer 3\n iProduct 2\n iSerial 1\n bNumConfigurations 1\n Configuration Descriptor:\n bLength 9\n bDescriptorType 2\n wTotalLength 25\n bNumInterfaces 1\n bConfigurationValue 1\n iConfiguration 0\n bmAttributes 0xe0\n Self Powered\n Remote Wakeup\n MaxPower 0mA\n Interface Descriptor:\n bLength 9\n bDescriptorType 4\n bInterfaceNumber 0\n bAlternateSetting 0\n bNumEndpoints 1\n bInterfaceClass 9 Hub\n bInterfaceSubClass 0 Unused\n bInterfaceProtocol 0 Full speed (or root) hub\n iInterface 0\n Endpoint Descriptor:\n bLength 7\n bDescriptorType 5\n bEndpointAddress 0x81 EP 1 IN\n bmAttributes 3\n Transfer Type Interrupt\n Synch Type None\n Usage Type Data\n wMaxPacketSize 0x0004 1x 4 bytes\n bInterval 12\n\nBus 001 Device 003: ID 0424:ec00 Standard Microsystems Corp.\nCouldn't open device, some information will be missing\nDevice Descriptor:\n bLength 18\n bDescriptorType 1\n bcdUSB 2.00\n bDeviceClass 255 Vendor Specific Class\n bDeviceSubClass 0\n bDeviceProtocol 1\n bMaxPacketSize0 64\n idVendor 0x0424 Standard Microsystems Corp.\n idProduct 0xec00\n bcdDevice 2.00\n iManufacturer 0\n iProduct 0\n iSerial 0\n bNumConfigurations 1\n Configuration Descriptor:\n bLength 9\n bDescriptorType 2\n wTotalLength 39\n bNumInterfaces 1\n bConfigurationValue 1\n iConfiguration 0\n bmAttributes 0xe0\n Self Powered\n Remote Wakeup\n MaxPower 2mA\n Interface Descriptor:\n bLength 9\n bDescriptorType 4\n bInterfaceNumber 0\n bAlternateSetting 0\n bNumEndpoints 3\n bInterfaceClass 255 Vendor Specific Class\n bInterfaceSubClass 0\n bInterfaceProtocol 255\n iInterface 0\n Endpoint Descriptor:\n bLength 7\n bDescriptorType 5\n bEndpointAddress 0x81 EP 1 IN\n bmAttributes 2\n Transfer Type Bulk\n Synch Type None\n Usage Type Data\n wMaxPacketSize 0x0200 1x 512 bytes\n bInterval 0\n Endpoint Descriptor:\n bLength 7\n bDescriptorType 5\n bEndpointAddress 0x02 EP 2 OUT\n bmAttributes 2\n Transfer Type Bulk\n Synch Type None\n Usage Type Data\n wMaxPacketSize 0x0200 1x 512 bytes\n bInterval 0\n Endpoint Descriptor:\n bLength 7\n bDescriptorType 5\n bEndpointAddress 0x83 EP 3 IN\n bmAttributes 3\n Transfer Type Interrupt\n Synch Type None\n Usage Type Data\n wMaxPacketSize 0x0010 1x 16 bytes\n bInterval 4\n\nBus 001 Device 004: ID 1058:0810 Western Digital Technologies, Inc.\nCouldn't open device, some information will be missing\nDevice Descriptor:\n bLength 18\n bDescriptorType 1\n bcdUSB 2.10\n bDeviceClass 0 (Defined at Interface level)\n bDeviceSubClass 0\n bDeviceProtocol 0\n bMaxPacketSize0 64\n idVendor 0x1058 Western Digital Technologies, Inc.\n idProduct 0x0810\n bcdDevice 10.42\n iManufacturer 1\n iProduct 2\n iSerial 3\n bNumConfigurations 1\n Configuration Descriptor:\n bLength 9\n bDescriptorType 2\n wTotalLength 32\n bNumInterfaces 1\n bConfigurationValue 1\n iConfiguration 0\n bmAttributes 0x80\n (Bus Powered)\n MaxPower 100mA\n Interface Descriptor:\n bLength 9\n bDescriptorType 4\n bInterfaceNumber 0\n bAlternateSetting 0\n bNumEndpoints 2\n bInterfaceClass 8 Mass Storage\n bInterfaceSubClass 6 SCSI\n bInterfaceProtocol 80 Bulk-Only\n iInterface 0\n Endpoint Descriptor:\n bLength 7\n bDescriptorType 5\n bEndpointAddress 0x8b EP 11 IN\n bmAttributes 2\n Transfer Type Bulk\n Synch Type None\n Usage Type Data\n wMaxPacketSize 0x0200 1x 512 bytes\n bInterval 0\n Endpoint Descriptor:\n bLength 7\n bDescriptorType 5\n bEndpointAddress 0x0a EP 10 OUT\n bmAttributes 2\n Transfer Type Bulk\n Synch Type None\n Usage Type Data\n wMaxPacketSize 0x0200 1x 512 bytes\n bInterval 0\n\n\nlsusb -v output after a while:\n\nBus 001 Device 002: ID 0424:9512 Standard Microsystems Corp.\nCouldn't open device, some information will be missing\nDevice Descriptor:\n bLength 18\n bDescriptorType 1\n bcdUSB 2.00\n bDeviceClass 9 Hub\n bDeviceSubClass 0 Unused\n bDeviceProtocol 2 TT per port\n bMaxPacketSize0 64\n idVendor 0x0424 Standard Microsystems Corp.\n idProduct 0x9512\n bcdDevice 2.00\n iManufacturer 0\n iProduct 0\n iSerial 0\n bNumConfigurations 1\n Configuration Descriptor:\n bLength 9\n bDescriptorType 2\n wTotalLength 41\n bNumInterfaces 1\n bConfigurationValue 1\n iConfiguration 0\n bmAttributes 0xe0\n Self Powered\n Remote Wakeup\n MaxPower 2mA\n Interface Descriptor:\n bLength 9\n bDescriptorType 4\n bInterfaceNumber 0\n bAlternateSetting 0\n bNumEndpoints 1\n bInterfaceClass 9 Hub\n bInterfaceSubClass 0 Unused\n bInterfaceProtocol 1 Single TT\n iInterface 0\n Endpoint Descriptor:\n bLength 7\n bDescriptorType 5\n bEndpointAddress 0x81 EP 1 IN\n bmAttributes 3\n Transfer Type Interrupt\n Synch Type None\n Usage Type Data\n wMaxPacketSize 0x0001 1x 1 bytes\n bInterval 12\n Interface Descriptor:\n bLength 9\n bDescriptorType 4\n bInterfaceNumber 0\n bAlternateSetting 1\n bNumEndpoints 1\n bInterfaceClass 9 Hub\n bInterfaceSubClass 0 Unused\n bInterfaceProtocol 2 TT per port\n iInterface 0\n Endpoint Descriptor:\n bLength 7\n bDescriptorType 5\n bEndpointAddress 0x81 EP 1 IN\n bmAttributes 3\n Transfer Type Interrupt\n Synch Type None\n Usage Type Data\n wMaxPacketSize 0x0001 1x 1 bytes\n bInterval 12\n\nBus 001 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub\nCouldn't open device, some information will be missing\nDevice Descriptor:\n bLength 18\n bDescriptorType 1\n bcdUSB 2.00\n bDeviceClass 9 Hub\n bDeviceSubClass 0 Unused\n bDeviceProtocol 1 Single TT\n bMaxPacketSize0 64\n idVendor 0x1d6b Linux Foundation\n idProduct 0x0002 2.0 root hub\n bcdDevice 3.06\n iManufacturer 3\n iProduct 2\n iSerial 1\n bNumConfigurations 1\n Configuration Descriptor:\n bLength 9\n bDescriptorType 2\n wTotalLength 25\n bNumInterfaces 1\n bConfigurationValue 1\n iConfiguration 0\n bmAttributes 0xe0\n Self Powered\n Remote Wakeup\n MaxPower 0mA\n Interface Descriptor:\n bLength 9\n bDescriptorType 4\n bInterfaceNumber 0\n bAlternateSetting 0\n bNumEndpoints 1\n bInterfaceClass 9 Hub\n bInterfaceSubClass 0 Unused\n bInterfaceProtocol 0 Full speed (or root) hub\n iInterface 0\n Endpoint Descriptor:\n bLength 7\n bDescriptorType 5\n bEndpointAddress 0x81 EP 1 IN\n bmAttributes 3\n Transfer Type Interrupt\n Synch Type None\n Usage Type Data\n wMaxPacketSize 0x0004 1x 4 bytes\n bInterval 12\n\nBus 001 Device 003: ID 0424:ec00 Standard Microsystems Corp.\nCouldn't open device, some information will be missing\nDevice Descriptor:\n bLength 18\n bDescriptorType 1\n bcdUSB 2.00\n bDeviceClass 255 Vendor Specific Class\n bDeviceSubClass 0\n bDeviceProtocol 1\n bMaxPacketSize0 64\n idVendor 0x0424 Standard Microsystems Corp.\n idProduct 0xec00\n bcdDevice 2.00\n iManufacturer 0\n iProduct 0\n iSerial 0\n bNumConfigurations 1\n Configuration Descriptor:\n bLength 9\n bDescriptorType 2\n wTotalLength 39\n bNumInterfaces 1\n bConfigurationValue 1\n iConfiguration 0\n bmAttributes 0xe0\n Self Powered\n Remote Wakeup\n MaxPower 2mA\n Interface Descriptor:\n bLength 9\n bDescriptorType 4\n bInterfaceNumber 0\n bAlternateSetting 0\n bNumEndpoints 3\n bInterfaceClass 255 Vendor Specific Class\n bInterfaceSubClass 0\n bInterfaceProtocol 255\n iInterface 0\n Endpoint Descriptor:\n bLength 7\n bDescriptorType 5\n bEndpointAddress 0x81 EP 1 IN\n bmAttributes 2\n Transfer Type Bulk\n Synch Type None\n Usage Type Data\n wMaxPacketSize 0x0200 1x 512 bytes\n bInterval 0\n Endpoint Descriptor:\n bLength 7\n bDescriptorType 5\n bEndpointAddress 0x02 EP 2 OUT\n bmAttributes 2\n Transfer Type Bulk\n Synch Type None\n Usage Type Data\n wMaxPacketSize 0x0200 1x 512 bytes\n bInterval 0\n Endpoint Descriptor:\n bLength 7\n bDescriptorType 5\n bEndpointAddress 0x83 EP 3 IN\n bmAttributes 3\n Transfer Type Interrupt\n Synch Type None\n Usage Type Data\n wMaxPacketSize 0x0010 1x 16 bytes\n bInterval 4\n\n\",robbannn,https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/users/17341,\"Your Western Digital hard drive is disappearing as shown in your lsusb output (Port 3):\n\nlsusb -t output:\n\n/: Bus 01.Port 1: Dev 1, Class=root_hub, Driver=dwc_otg/1p, 480M\n |__ Port 1: Dev 2, If 0, Class=hub, Driver=hub/3p, 480M\n |__ Port 1: Dev 3, If 0, Class=vend., Driver=smsc95xx, 480M\n |__ Port 3: Dev 4, If 0, Class=stor., Driver=usb-storage, 480M\n\nlsusb -t output after a while:\n\n/: Bus 01.Port 1: Dev 1, Class=root_hub, Driver=dwc_otg/1p, 480M\n |__ Port 1: Dev 2, If 0, Class=hub, Driver=hub/3p, 480M\n |__ Port 1: Dev 3, If 0, Class=vend., Driver=smsc95xx, 480M\n\n\nI recommend that you copy all of your data off of this drive to another hard drive before it fails completely. \n\nIt is possible that it could be the USB connection on the Pi instead of the drive. Does the drive behave like this on a different computer system?\n\nAgain, I strongly recommend that you backup any irreplaceable data on this drive before it fails completely. If you have another USB drive I recommend using rsync. I use the following command to backup one external hard drive to a 2nd device on my Pi where /media/USBHDD1 is the mount point of the 1st drive and /media/USBHDD2 is the mount point of the 2nd drive. rsync can recover from an interrupted copy in case your drive disappears while performing the copy. You should be able to just power cycle failed drive and perform the copy command again. rsync should pick up where it left off.\n\nrsync -av --delete /media/USBHDD1/* /media/USBHDD2/\n\n\",HeatfanJohn,https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/users/1311,http://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/19357/suddenly-got-an-i-o-error-from-my-external-hdd,TECHNOLOGY,raspberrypi.stackexchange.com\n200,Passenger Name - Flight Booking Passenger only have First Name in Passport,\"I have bought Delhi-London return flights for 4 on Saudi Airlines.\n2 of the passengers only have ‘First name’ in their passports, hence i have used the same in ‘First Name’ and ‘Last Name’ while booking the tickets, as that is generally a common practice suggested by many airlines.\n\nSaudi Airlines do not mention anything about this situation on their website and when i called their UK helpline, they were not very sure\n\nDo you see travelers encountering any problem at airport because of this?\n\",Amit,https://travel.stackexchange.com/users/29089,\"I called two persons who work for Saudia (ticketing agents), they both said adding the first name in both fields should work, one of them said he would add \"\"MR\"\" as the first name and then add the only name as the last name, either way it should work. \n\nThey also mentioned there is no clear policy regarding this and it might be confusing for people, but once the passport is found with one name people usually accept any of the solutions above. So no worries, you will be fine.\n\",Nean Der Thal,https://travel.stackexchange.com/users/10051,http://travel.stackexchange.com/questions/47043/passenger-name-flight-booking-passenger-only-have-first-name-in-passport,CULTURE,travel.stackexchange.com\n245,Exactly how are Avenger elites buffed when one of them dies?,\"I understand that elites with the Avenger property get stronger as the others in the pack with that property die, but how exactly do they get stronger?\n\nI'm looking for hard numbers.\n\",Sterno,https://gaming.stackexchange.com/users/3062,\"\n Only Champion monster types will spawn with the Avenger trait. If a\n Champion touting this ability appears, it can imbue all other\n Champions in the area with the same type of powers it spawned with,\n increasing movement and attack speed and damage inflicted until the\n foe is felled. This effect may be stacked up to three times.\n\n\nSource\n\nI highlighted the important bits.\n\",ayckoster,https://gaming.stackexchange.com/users/10933,http://gaming.stackexchange.com/questions/70417/exactly-how-are-avenger-elites-buffed-when-one-of-them-dies,CULTURE,gaming.stackexchange.com\n257,Configure which plugin custom post types get registered,\"I am writing a plugin that creates custom post types, but i want users to be able to turn them on and off via a filter in the functions.php file.\n\nThe issue i'm having is that custom post types register_post_type has to be called during init and functions.php is read far after this.\n\nHow can I allow users to provide an array using a filter or action that will control which post types register_post_type gets called?\n\n// currently the custom post type constructor has this\nif(!post_type_exists($this->name)) {\n add_action(\"\"init\"\", array($this, \"\"register_post_type\"\"));\n add_action(\"\"init\"\", array($this, \"\"configure_meta_boxes\"\"));\n add_action(\"\"save_post\"\", array($this, \"\"save\"\"));\n\n add_filter('myplugin_get_shortcodes', array($this, \"\"configure_shortcodes\"\"));\n}\n\n\nThe filter works just fine so I know it's being called, but for whatever reason the actions aren't.\n\",Rabbott,https://wordpress.stackexchange.com/users/35459,\"\n The issue i'm having is that custom post types register_post_type has\n to be called during init and functions.php is read far after this.\n\n\nThat's not true. functions.php is read before init because you can declare your functions in there and then hook them to init.\n\nSince you want to avoid a settings page and you want your users to modify the code (at your own risk), you could use some flags:\n\nadd_action('init', 'wpse_109719_post_types');\n\nfunction wpse_109719_post_types(){\n\n $post_type1 = true;\n $post_type2 = true;\n $post_type3 = false; // your users don't want this one\n\n if( $post_type1 ){\n register_post_type( 'your_post_type_1', $args );\n }\n\n if( $post_type2 ){\n register_post_type( 'your_post_type_2', $args );\n }\n\n if( $post_type3 ){\n // won't be registered since $post_type3 was declared as false\n register_post_type( 'your_post_type_3', $args );\n }\n\n}\n\n\n\nNot tested, but you can use something like that to collect the post types:\n\n$val = array ();\n$options_array = apply_filters( 'my_unique_filter', $val );\nprint_r( $options_array );\n// make a loop and register_post_type here. don't forget to hook at init\n\n\nIn your plugins:\n\nfunction filter1( $val ){\n $val[] = 'post_type1';\n return $val;\n}\n\nfunction filter2( $val ){\n $val[] = 'post_type2';\n return $val;\n}\n\nfunction filter3( $val ){\n $val[] = 'post_type3';\n return $val;\n}\n\n\nadd_filter('my_unique_filter', 'filter1');\nadd_filter('my_unique_filter', 'filter2');\nadd_filter('my_unique_filter', 'filter3');\n\n\",RRikesh,https://wordpress.stackexchange.com/users/17305,http://wordpress.stackexchange.com/questions/109719/configure-which-plugin-custom-post-types-get-registered,TECHNOLOGY,wordpress.stackexchange.com\n267,\"Why say \"\"it rhymes with Grape\"\"?\",\"There is a scene in 21 Jumpstreet where Dave Franco' character Eric says \"\"do you know what they'll do to me in prison it rhymes with grape\"\" and it made me curious as to why it was phrased that way. \n\nIn Knocked Up a similar joke was made \"\"it rhymes with smabortion\"\" which I believe I read was done due to censors. However the repeating setup for the joke has me curious if this time it was due to censors or if it was just considered a funny setup that bared repeating. So was it censoring or continuing a joke?\n\",Kevin Howell,https://movies.stackexchange.com/users/645,\"Opinion: It was a funny(?) joke.\n\nAlthough a similar setup was used in Knocked Up, the truth is similar setups have been used in plenty of comedy movies.\n\nWhilst I understand your query regarding the censors, it seems difficult to imagine why censorship would be an issue, the main reason I can think of being:\n\n\nThere is a colossal amount of crass language, violence, partial nudity and drug taking in the film. Why would all this be considered acceptable but a line about rape wouldn't be?\n\n\nIt seems more likely to me that it was a funny line that works in the context of the scene as it seems so abhorrent that he can't bring himself to utter the actual word, instead resorting to childish rhyming (suggesting the mere thought of it makes him regress to his inner child in fear). \n\nWhether it was a homage to his (extremely popular) line from Knocked Up is something I can find no reference to online, but solely in my own opinion, I can't see how this was a censorship issue.\n\",Andrew Martin,https://movies.stackexchange.com/users/8219,http://movies.stackexchange.com/questions/21090/why-say-it-rhymes-with-grape,LIFE_ARTS,movies.stackexchange.com\n284,c++ getline and stringstream,\"I'm trying to read in a file, which has 5 lines, and every line is 3-4 string long.\nHere's my input file:\n\n10:30 Hurley 1234567A 10:15\n10:45 Hurley 1234567A 11:30\n08:35 Jacob 1x1x1x1x1x\n08:35 Jacob 1x1x1x1x1x 08:10\n08:05 Jacob 1x1x1x1x1x\n08:45 Sayid 33332222 09:15\n\n\nAnd this is what I get:\n\n10:30 Hurley 1234567A 10:15\n10:45 Hurley 1234567A 11:30\n08:35 Jacob 1x1x1x1x1x 11:30\n08:35 Jacob 1x1x1x1x1x 08:10\n08:05 Jacob 1x1x1x1x1x 08:10\n08:45 Sayid 33332222 09:15\n\n\nThis is my code:\n\nvoid enor::Read(status &sx,isle &dx,ifstream &x){\n string str;\n getline(x, str, '\\n');\n stringstream ss;\n ss << str;\n ss >> dx.in >> dx.name >> dx.id >> dx.out;\n /*getline(x, str, '\\n');\n x>>dx.in>>dx.name>>dx.id>>dx.out;*/\n if(x.fail())\n sx=abnorm;\n else\n sx=norm;\n}\n\n\nHow can I read in the file without having the 3rd and 5th line filled with the 2nd and 4th line's time? I want the dx.out to be empty. Should I use another method, or is it possible to be done with stringstream? \n\",wfmn17,https://stackoverflow.com/users/1430743,\"If >> sees that there is nothing left in the stringstream, it will leave the variable untouched - so dx.out keeps its value from the last line. However, you can do\n\nss >> dx.in >> dx.name >> dx.id;\nif (!(ss >> dx.out))\n dx.out = \"\"\"\";\n\n\nbecause ss >> dx.out returns ss, and when a stream is converted to a bool (such as when it is used in an if condition), it returns false if the last read attempt failed.\n\",Aasmund Eldhuset,https://stackoverflow.com/users/626853,http://stackoverflow.com/questions/16374187/c-getline-and-stringstream,STACKOVERFLOW,stackoverflow.com\n292,\"Outlook doesn't download all emails, whereas iphone does\",\"When I check my emails on my iPhone, I notice I am seeing emails that are not appearing in Outlook on my computer. This has only happened since I downloaded an Outlook upgrade. I'm afraid of missing important emails. Where are they going?\n\",Samantha,https://superuser.com/users/148771,\"It could be that your iPhone is deleting the messages off the server before your Outlook client downloads them. Check for a setting related to this. It might be called something like \"\"Leave a copy on the server\"\" or \"\"Delete messages from server after downloading.\"\"\n\",Tanner Faulkner,https://superuser.com/users/146694,http://superuser.com/questions/454556,TECHNOLOGY,superuser.com\n" }, { "path": "input/google-quest-challenge/train_toy.csv", "content": "qa_id,question_title,question_body,question_user_name,question_user_page,answer,answer_user_name,answer_user_page,url,category,host,question_asker_intent_understanding,question_body_critical,question_conversational,question_expect_short_answer,question_fact_seeking,question_has_commonly_accepted_answer,question_interestingness_others,question_interestingness_self,question_multi_intent,question_not_really_a_question,question_opinion_seeking,question_type_choice,question_type_compare,question_type_consequence,question_type_definition,question_type_entity,question_type_instructions,question_type_procedure,question_type_reason_explanation,question_type_spelling,question_well_written,answer_helpful,answer_level_of_information,answer_plausible,answer_relevance,answer_satisfaction,answer_type_instructions,answer_type_procedure,answer_type_reason_explanation,answer_well_written\n0,What am I losing when using extension tubes instead of a macro lens?,\"After playing around with macro photography on-the-cheap (read: reversed lens, rev. lens mounted on a straight lens, passive extension tubes), I would like to get further with this. The problems with the techniques I used is that focus is manual and aperture control is problematic at best. This limited my setup to still subjects (read: dead insects) Now, as spring is approaching, I want to be able to shoot live insects. I believe that for this, autofocus and settable aperture will be of great help.\n\nSo, one obvious but expensive option is a macro lens (say, EF 100mm Macro) However, I am not really interested in yet another prime lens. An alternative is the electrical extension tubes.\n\nExcept for maximum focusing distance, what am I losing when using tubes (coupled with a fine lens, say EF70-200/2.8) instead of a macro lens?\n\",ysap,https://photo.stackexchange.com/users/1024,\"I just got extension tubes, so here's the skinny.\n\n\n ...what am I losing when using tubes...?\n\n\nA very considerable amount of light! Increasing that distance from the end of the lens to the sensor can cut your light several stops. Combined with the fact that you'll usually shoot stopped down - expect to need to increase your ISO considerably.\n\nThe fact the macro's are usually considered very very sharp, although I believe that 70-200mm 2.8 is supposed to be quite sharp.\n\nThe ultra low distortion typical of many macros.\n\nI wouldn't worry too much about the bokeh since the DOF will still be quite limited.\n\nCoupled on my 50mm, a full 60mm'ish extension tube results in a DOF of about a couple inches in front of the lens. On my 70-300, its probably around 2-3 feet in front of the lens to about a foot in front of the lens.\n\",rfusca,https://photo.stackexchange.com/users/1917,http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9169/what-am-i-losing-when-using-extension-tubes-instead-of-a-macro-lens,LIFE_ARTS,photo.stackexchange.com,1.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,1.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,1.0,0.8,1.0,0.0,0.0,1.0\n1,What is the distinction between a city and a sprawl/metroplex... between downtown and a commercial district?,\"I am trying to understand what kinds of places the spam values on p 231 refer to in the 5th Edition main book for Shadowrun.\n\nPer p 15, a sprawl is a plex, a plex is a \"\"metropolitan complex, short for metroplex\"\". Per Google a metroplex is \"\" a very large metropolitan area, especially one that is an aggregation of two or more cities\"\". A city downtown and sprawl downtown would tend to have similar densities, but for some reason the sprawl (which includes suburbs?) has a higher spam zone noise rating (p 231). Similarly, I'd think of a downtown as being more dense and noisy (e.g. Office buildings and street vendors) than a commercial district, e.g. an outdoor mall. The noise ratings make me think that I am thinking about this incorrectly. What is a better way of thinking of them?\n\",russellpierce,https://rpg.stackexchange.com/users/8774,\"It might be helpful to look into the definition of spam zone:\n\n(p.216) spam zone: An area flooded with invasive and/or viral AR advertising, causing noise.\n\nBecause a metroplex has so many marketing targets, it seems a safe assumption that marketers would drown the plex with spam. Spam from the less dense areas would bleed into the urban cores. A smaller city with less urban/suburban territory surrounding it ostensibly wouldn't have as much spam.\n\",Erik Schmidt,https://rpg.stackexchange.com/users/1871,http://rpg.stackexchange.com/questions/47820/what-is-the-distinction-between-a-city-and-a-sprawl-metroplex-between-downtow,CULTURE,rpg.stackexchange.com,1.0,1.0,0.0,0.5,1.0,1.0,0.4444444444444444,0.4444444444444444,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.8888888888888888,0.8888888888888888,0.5555555555555556,0.8888888888888888,0.8888888888888888,0.6666666666666667,0.0,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.8888888888888888\n2,Maximum protusion length for through-hole component pins,\"I'm working on a PCB that has through-hole components on both sides of the board. The \"\"top\"\" side of the board is mounted flush to a Delrin plastic block (the only top-side component is a gas sensor that is fed air samples through hose fittings in the plastic block).\n\nThe flush mounting means that I have to add grooves to the plastic block to accommodate the soldered pins of the bottom-side components. Assuming a standard 0.062\"\" thickness FR4 board, how deep do I need to make the grooves in the plastic block? The only thing I could find is this NASA workmanship standard that states 0.5mm to 2.29mm, but I'm not sure if that will always hold true.\n\",Joe Baker,https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/10157,\"Do you even need grooves? We make several products using through-hole components that are intended to mount using VHB double-sided foam tape. The boards are 0.062\"\" thick double-sided with PTH and we use a table-top vertical belt sander to bring the component leads almost flush with the solder mask. In other words, the solder mask isn't touched by the sand paper but the leads are all sanded flat and sitting just proud of the solder mask.\n\nThis works well for small boards.\n\nFor what it's worth, there are commercial machines available that use a rotary saw blade to do the same thing. The board is held horizontal in a mounting / clamping system on the base and the saw motor is vertical on a sliding X-Y mechanism. The saw blade simply cuts all of the leads almost flush with the board surface. \n\nThis system is suited for boards of all sizes but especially for those boards larger than can be handled easily to be sanded with the belt sander.\n\nAlso note that these techniques are suitable only for PC boards with plated-through holes. \n\",Dwayne Reid,https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/64754,http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/154225/maximum-protusion-length-for-through-hole-component-pins,SCIENCE,electronics.stackexchange.com,0.8888888888888888,0.6666666666666666,0.0,1.0,1.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.4444444444444444,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.3333333333333333,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.7777777777777778,0.7777777777777778,0.5555555555555556,1.0,1.0,0.6666666666666667,0.0,0.3333333333333333,1.0,0.8888888888888888\n3,Can an affidavit be used in Beit Din?,\"An affidavit, from what i understand, is basically a signed document given by a witness to be used as evidence in a trial, without the witness themselves needing to take a stand.\n\nCan an affidavit be used in Beit Din? Or must witnesses take the stand in person for their testimony to count?\n\n(In case i'm misunderstanding what exactly an affidavit is, simply treat it as a signed document by a witness with their testimony.)\n\",Scimonster,https://judaism.stackexchange.com/users/5151,\"Sending an \"\"affidavit\"\" it is a dispute between Rashi and Rabbeinu Tam.\n\nDevarim 19:15:\n\n\n לא יקום עד אחד באיש לכל עון ולכל חטאת בכל חטא אשר יחטא על פי שני עדים או על פי שלשה עדים יקום דבר\n\n\nRashi:\n\n\n ולא שיכתבו עדותם באגרת וישלחו לבית דין\n \n And not that they write their testimony in a letter and send it to Beis Din\n\n\nTosefos Bava Basra 40a (continued from 39b):\n\n\n ועוד אומר ר\"\"י ששמע מן ר\"\"ת שנוהגים לשלח העדים עדותם באיגרת לב\"\"ד וחשיב עדות והא דדרשינן בספרי. מפיהם ולא מפי כתבם לא אתא אלא למעוטי דוקא אלם שאינו בר הגדה אבל ראוי להגדה אין הגדה מעכבת בו \n \n R\"\"i said that he heard from Rabbeinu Tam that the custom is to send testimony by a letter and it is considered [valid] testimony. And that which it expounds in the Sifre \"\"From their mouths and not from their writing\"\" is only coming to exclude a mute who is not able to speak, but someone who is able to speak does not need to speak.\n\n\nRambam concludes it is not allowed, but in monetary law the Chachomim enacted that it would be accepted in order to not prohibit the ability of people to secure loans (Hilchos Edus 3:4)\n\n\n דין תורה שאין מקבלין עדות, לא בדיני ממונות ולא בדיני נפשות, אלא מפי העדים: שנאמר \"\"על פי שניים עדים\"\" (דברים יז,ו)--מפיהם, ולא מכתב ידן. אבל מדברי סופרים שחותכין דיני ממונות בעדות שבשטר, אף על פי שאין העדים קיימין, כדי שלא תנעול דלת בפני לווין.\n\n\",Y     e     z,https://judaism.stackexchange.com/users/4794,http://judaism.stackexchange.com/questions/55182/can-an-affidavit-be-used-in-beit-din,CULTURE,judaism.stackexchange.com,0.8888888888888888,0.6666666666666666,0.6666666666666666,1.0,1.0,1.0,0.4444444444444444,0.4444444444444444,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.8888888888888888,0.8333333333333334,0.3333333333333333,0.8333333333333334,1.0,0.8,0.0,0.0,1.0,1.0\n5,How do you make a binary image in Photoshop?,\"I am trying to make a binary image. I want more than just the look of the image to be black/white, but I want the actual file to be a binary file. Every pixel should be either black, or white. \n\nI don't just want a monochrome image. I can't have varying shades of gray, every pixel needs to be black or white.\n\nIs this possible? I looked under Image > Mode but nothing there seems to indiciate a binary style image.\n\",leigero,https://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com/users/21313,\"Check out Image Trace in Adobe Illustrator. \n\nI like using python and PIL, however.\n\nfrom PIL import Image\nimage_file = Image.open(\"\"myimage.bmp\"\") \nimage_file = image_file.convert('1') # convert\nimage_file.save('result.bmp')\n\n\",q2ra,https://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com/users/27160,http://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com/questions/35791/how-do-you-make-a-binary-image-in-photoshop,LIFE_ARTS,graphicdesign.stackexchange.com,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.0,1.0,1.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,1.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,1.0,0.8,1.0,0.0,1.0,1.0\n6,Column Grouping with Title in DataTables,\"I am creating an HTML table with jQuery's DataTables plug-in. I would like to know if there is a way to group a number of columns together with a Title which describes what the grouping represents. \n\nIn my specific case, 3 of my columns will display an address (Street, City, State). I'd like them to have an additional border around just those columns with a title that indicates to the end-user that those 3 columns represent the address.\n\nI'm considering just changing the background color of those 3 columns which will do the job but I'm wanting the Address title to be displayed. I've seen that rows can be grouped together and sections divided by separators; however, I haven't yet come across anything that makes it possible to group columns together.\n\",Joe,https://stackoverflow.com/users/2888211,\"To show group headers see this example (build the <thead> element using colspan and rowspan).\n\nTo show borders around you group build CSS classes with border-left and border-right and use the columns.className option for the first and last column in your group.\n\",Raidri,https://stackoverflow.com/users/2610249,http://stackoverflow.com/questions/23815544/column-grouping-with-title-in-datatables,STACKOVERFLOW,stackoverflow.com,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.5,1.0,1.0,0.4444444444444444,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.5,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.5,0.0,0.0,0.8333333333333334,0.8888888888888888,0.6666666666666666,0.8888888888888888,1.0,0.7333333333333333,0.6666666666666666,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.7777777777777778\n7,core file size with ulimit,\"My question is probably not related to Ubuntu in particular, but since my desktop running this OS, I came to this forum.\n\nI am trying to change the core file size using ulimit -c command as follows:\n\n$ ulimit -a\ncore file size (blocks, -c) 0\ndata seg size (kbytes, -d) unlimited\nscheduling priority (-e) 0\nfile size (blocks, -f) unlimited\npending signals (-i) 7959\nmax locked memory (kbytes, -l) 64\nmax memory size (kbytes, -m) unlimited\nopen files (-n) 1024\npipe size (512 bytes, -p) 8\nPOSIX message queues (bytes, -q) 819200\nreal-time priority (-r) 0\nstack size (kbytes, -s) 8192\ncpu time (seconds, -t) unlimited\nmax user processes (-u) 1024\nvirtual memory (kbytes, -v) unlimited\nfile locks (-x) unlimited\n\n\nChanging the limitation:\n\n$ ulimit -c unlimited\n\n\nObserving the result:\n\n$ ulimit -a\ncore file size (blocks, -c) unlimited\ndata seg size (kbytes, -d) unlimited\nscheduling priority (-e) 0\nfile size (blocks, -f) unlimited\npending signals (-i) 7959\nmax locked memory (kbytes, -l) 64\nmax memory size (kbytes, -m) unlimited\nopen files (-n) 1024\npipe size (512 bytes, -p) 8\nPOSIX message queues (bytes, -q) 819200\nreal-time priority (-r) 0\nstack size (kbytes, -s) 8192\ncpu time (seconds, -t) unlimited\nmax user processes (-u) 1024\nvirtual memory (kbytes, -v) unlimited\nfile locks (-x) unlimited\n\n\nIndeed the limit is changed.\nHowever, when I open another terminal and check the value, I still see zero value in core file size.\n\nQuestions:\n\n\nAre changes made using ulimit command affect only current process, i.e. in this case the bash?\nI launch a program from shell as a fore- or-background process. Does the ulimit change apply for new process ?\nHow can I make that all user processes are affected with this configuration ?\n\n\",maximb,https://askubuntu.com/users/425067,\"ulimit is a shell builtin, and thus only affects the current shell, and processes started by that shell:\n\n$ type ulimit\nulimit is a shell builtin\n\n\nFrom man ulimit:\n\nThe ulimit utility shall set or report the file-size writing limit\nimposed on files written by the shell and its child processes (files of\nany size may be read). Only a process with appropriate privileges can\nincrease the limit.\n\n\nSo, yes, child processes are affected.\n\nTo set limits permanently or for all processes, edit /etc/security/limits.conf and reboot. The examples in the manpage are fairly good. You just need to add something like:\n\nusername - core unlimited\n\n\",muru,https://askubuntu.com/users/158442,http://askubuntu.com/questions/642656/core-file-size-with-ulimit,TECHNOLOGY,askubuntu.com,0.8888888888888888,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,1.0,1.0,0.4444444444444444,0.3333333333333333,1.0,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,0.7777777777777778,1.0,0.8888888888888888,0.8666666666666666,1.0,0.0,1.0,0.8888888888888888\n9,How do you get your Steam games to run on Ubuntu through Wine or something similar?,\"Ok, I was kind of surprised that this hadn't been asked here before, but maybe it's too technical for this site. You guys decide.\n\nI've heard lots of different stories about setting up Wine on Ubuntu, WineTricks, PlayOnLinux etc., but never a 'This is the best way to do it for Steam and Steam games' thread.\n\nSo has anyone had any real success getting their Steam games to run on Ubuntu through Wine or something similar? If so, could we get some specific steps?\n\",LoveMeSomeCode,https://gaming.stackexchange.com/users/7157,\"You could try http://transgaming.com/ (Cedega). I did this in the past and it worked fine, but you have to pay for it - :\\\n\",VoltaicShock,https://gaming.stackexchange.com/users/8419,http://gaming.stackexchange.com/questions/16751/how-do-you-get-your-steam-games-to-run-on-ubuntu-through-wine-or-something-simil,CULTURE,gaming.stackexchange.com,1.0,1.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,1.0,0.8888888888888888,0.7777777777777778,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.6666666666666666,0.8888888888888888,1.0,0.8666666666666666,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.0,0.8888888888888888\n11,High memory usage Windows Server 2008r2 on VMware,\"We are running Windows Server 2008r2 on VMware and are experiencing extremely high memory use when nothing is running. The server memory usages slowly creeps up to 98-99%. The server is configured to use 8GB of memory. Is there some setting we should be using so the server can better manage it's memory usage. It's behaving as if there is a memory leak.\n\",Tim Britton,https://serverfault.com/users/72141,\"Well to better assist with your question:\n\n-Which VMware Product & Version\n-What is the Windows 2008 R2 VM running?\n-Where are you seeing the high memory usage? Windows or your VMware product?\n\",colealtdelete,https://serverfault.com/users/47027,http://serverfault.com/questions/240076,TECHNOLOGY,serverfault.com,1.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,1.0,1.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.5555555555555556,0.0,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.8888888888888888,0.6666666666666666,0.3333333333333333,0.6666666666666666,0.6666666666666666,0.26666666666666666,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.8888888888888888\n12,How do you grapple in Dead Rising 3?,\"I just started playing Dead Rising 3 on the Xbox One. I got to the first grapple, and I can't figure out what I'm supposed to do. The top of the screen says \"\"Perform a gesture to escape a grapple\"\" - what does \"\"gesture\"\" mean in this context? Is it something to do with Kinect?\n\",Nick Heiner,https://gaming.stackexchange.com/users/31532,\"You can also switch gesture based grapple escapes off in the Kinect settings of Dead Rising 3 (along with all the rest of the Kinect features) so that you have to do QTE type button presses instead.\n\",Dewi Rees,https://gaming.stackexchange.com/users/43859,http://gaming.stackexchange.com/questions/147970/how-do-you-grapple-in-dead-rising-3,CULTURE,gaming.stackexchange.com,1.0,0.7777777777777778,0.0,0.3333333333333333,1.0,1.0,0.7777777777777778,0.8888888888888888,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.0,1.0,0.7777777777777778,0.3333333333333333,0.7777777777777778,0.7777777777777778,0.5333333333333333,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.7777777777777778\n14,How to compile and install programs from source,\"This is an issue that really limits my enjoyment of Linux. If the application isn't on a repository or if it doesn't have an installer script, then I really struggle where and how to install an application from source.\n\nComparatively to Windows, it's easy. You're (pretty much) required to use an installer application that does all of the work in a Wizard. With Linux... not so much.\n\nSo, do you have any tips or instructions on this or are there any websites that explicitly explain how, why and where to install Linux programs from source? \n\",Nitrodist,https://unix.stackexchange.com/users/193,\"I think it's just best to read the documentation coming with that specific program or application that you're wanting to install.\nUsually there are readmes/READMEs inside the tarballs (the application source archive which you can usually download) or maybe even INSTALL files to read and learn about what is the preferred way of installing said application.\nIn short: RTFM ;)\n\",reiche,https://unix.stackexchange.com/users/280,http://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/173/how-to-compile-and-install-programs-from-source,TECHNOLOGY,unix.stackexchange.com,0.8333333333333334,0.6666666666666666,0.0,1.0,1.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.5,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.6666666666666666,0.5,0.6666666666666666,0.8333333333333334,0.6,1.0,0.0,0.0,0.8333333333333334\n15,sleeping SPID blocking other transactions,\"I'm really having trouble tracking down some blocking we are experiencing.\n\nThe root blocking SPID's status is 'sleeping', the cmd is 'AWAITING COMMAND', and the sqltext is 'SET TRANSACTION ISOLATION LEVEL READ COMMITTED'.\n\nWhen I view the Top Transactions by Blocked Transactions Count report, the Blocking SQL Statement is '--'.\n\nI've performed a trace on the SQL and when the blocking happens tracing the root blocking SPID but it hasn't really led me anywhere. The last trace statement is the same as the sqltext above 'SET TRANSACTION ISOLATION LEVEL READ COMMITTED'.\n\nI've checked all the related SPROCs I can find to make sure they have TRY/CATCH BEGIN TRAN/COMMIT TRAN/ROLLBACK TRAN statements (we use SPROCs for everything so there are no standalone statements being ran). This issue just started happening over the last 24 hours and no one is claiming to have made any changes to the system.\n\nSolution. One of our seldomly used SPROCs had an error with an insert (number of columns didn't match), but we are still confused on what exactly was happening.\n\nWhen looking at all the trace information, the EXEC statement for this SPROC was listed at times, but NEVER just before the BLOCK happened on the blockking SPID. It seemed that when it starting blocking, the trace didn't record the execution of it (or any of the statements within it either). However there are other times were the trace did record it's execution and no blocking occurred.\n\nThe SPROC error report came from a user, and I was able to find multiple EXEC statements in traces and run them in SSMS. No time when I ran them did we have any blocking occur or did they hang. They ran as expected (the catch block fired and rolled back the transaction after the error). After resolving the fixing the SPROC, we have not seen the issue again.\n\",Brad,https://dba.stackexchange.com/users/10561,\"Have you tried using Adam Machanic's sp_whoisactive? There's an option to get the outer command to see if it really is within a proc. It could be the application is holding open a transaction instead of committing it. Try looking at DBCC OPENTRAN as well.\n\",Eric Humphrey - lotsahelp,https://dba.stackexchange.com/users/247,http://dba.stackexchange.com/questions/41709/sleeping-spid-blocking-other-transactions,TECHNOLOGY,dba.stackexchange.com,0.8888888888888888,0.4444444444444444,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.3333333333333333,0.6666666666666666,0.5555555555555556,0.4444444444444444,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.3333333333333333,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,1.0,0.8,1.0,0.3333333333333333,0.6666666666666666,1.0\n16,Verify $_POST script will work correctly,\"can someone read through this script really quick and verify that I didn't miss anything... I'm not getting any errors in my IDE so just have to make sure the structure is correct\n\n<?php\nrequire_once '/usr/local/cpanel/3rdparty/lib/php/Mail.php';\n\n$db_server = 'localhost';\n$db_user = '-----';\n$db_pass = '-----';\n\n$dbc = mysql_connect ($db_server, $db_user, $db_pass);\nif (!$dbc) { \n die(mysql_error());\n header ('Location: /contact');\n exit;\n}\n\nif ($_POST['contactsent'] != 'yes') {\n header ('Location: /contact');\n exit;\n\n} else {\n\n if (is_array($_POST)) {\n foreach ($_POST as $key => $value) {\n $_POST[$key] = mysql_real_escape_string(stripslashes($value));\n }\n }\n\n $RequestType = $_POST[\"\"RequestType\"\"];\n $ConsumerBusiness = $_POST[\"\"ConsumerBusiness\"\"];\n $GlobalLocation = $_POST[\"\"GlobalLocation\"\"];\n $FirstName = strtolower(str_replace(\"\"'\"\",\"\"''\"\",$_POST[\"\"FirstName\"\"]));\n $FirstName = strtoupper(substr($FirstName,0,1)).substr($FirstName,1);\n $LastName = strtolower(str_replace(\"\"'\"\",\"\"''\"\",$_POST[\"\"LastName\"\"]));\n $LastName = strtoupper(substr($LastName,0,1)).substr($LastName,1);\n $Email = strtolower(str_replace(\"\"'\"\",\"\"''\"\",$_POST[\"\"Email\"\"]));\n $Title = strtolower(str_replace(\"\"'\"\",\"\"''\"\",$_POST[\"\"Title\"\"]));\n $Title = strtoupper(substr($Title,0,1)).substr($Title,1);\n $Company = strtolower(str_replace(\"\"'\"\",\"\"''\"\",$_POST[\"\"Company\"\"]));\n $Company = strtoupper(substr($Company,0,1)).substr($Company,1);\n $Address = strtolower(str_replace(\"\"'\"\",\"\"''\"\",$_POST[\"\"Address\"\"]));\n $Address = strtoupper(substr($Address,0,1)).substr($Address,1);\n $City = strtolower(str_replace(\"\"'\"\",\"\"''\"\",$_POST[\"\"City\"\"]));\n $City = strtoupper(substr($City,0,1)).substr($City,1);\n $State = $_POST[\"\"State\"\"];\n $Zip = $_POST[\"\"Zip\"\"];\n $Phone = $_POST[\"\"Phone\"\"];\n $F = $_POST[\"\"F\"\"];\n $ProductDesc = $_POST[\"\"ProductDesc\"\"];\n $Comment = $_POST[\"\"Comment\"\"];\n\n if ($GlobalLocation == \"\"Canada\"\"):\n $SendTo=\"\"canadainfo@------.com\"\";\n elseif ($GlobalLocation == \"\"Central America\"\"): \n $SendTo=\"\"customer.service@------.com.pa\"\";\n elseif ($GlobalLocation == \"\"Europe\"\"):\n $SendTo=\"\"marketing@-----.uk\"\";\n elseif ($GlobalLocation == \"\"Mexico\"\"):\n $SendTo=\"\"ventas@------.com.mx\"\";\n else:\n $SendTo=\"\"info@------.com\"\";\n endif;\n\nfunction dbSet($fields, $source = array()) {\n $set='';\n if (!source) $source = &$_POST;\n foreach ($fields as $field) {\n if (isset($source[$field])) {\n $set.=\"\"`$field`='\"\".mysql_real_escape_string($source[$field]).\"\"', \"\";\n }\n }\n return substr($set, 0, -2);\n}\n\n// INSERT INTO DATABASE\n mysql_select_db(\"\"new_contact\"\",$dbc) or die(\"\"Could not select new_contact\"\");\n\n$fields = explode(\"\" \"\", \"\"RequestType ConsumerBusiness GlobalLocation FirstName LastName Email Title Company Address City State Zip Phone F ProductDesc Comment\"\");\n $query = \"\"INSERT INTO new_contact SET \"\".dbSet($fields, $_POST);\n mysql_query($query);\n\n// SETUP EMAIL\n $Bodycopy = \"\"This information was submitted via the ------.com website and sent to you because of the location \n identified by the user. <br>If this has reached you in error, please forward this email to info@------.com\"\";\n $Bodycopy. \"\"<br>----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br><br>\"\";\n\n if ($RequestType != \"\"\"\") $Bodycopy. \"\"What kind of information do you need? : \"\" .$RequestType. \"\"<br>\"\"; \n if ($ConsumerBusiness != \"\"\"\") $Bodycopy. \"\"What type of customer or vendor are you? : \"\" .$ConsumerBusiness. \"\"<br>\"\";\n if ($GlobalLocation != \"\"\"\") $Bodycopy. \"\"Global Location : \"\" .$GlobalLocation. \"\"<br>\"\";\n if ($Company != \"\"\"\") $Bodycopy. \"\"Company : \"\" .$Company. \"\"<br>\"\";\n if ($FirstName != \"\"\"\") $Bodycopy. \"\"First Name : \"\" .$FirstName. \"\"<br>\"\";\n if ($LastName != \"\"\"\") $Bodycopy. \"\"Last Name : \"\" .$LastName. \"\"<br>\"\";\n if ($Title != \"\"\"\") $Bodycopy. \"\"Title : \"\" .$Title. \"\"<br>\"\";\n if ($Email != \"\"\"\") $Bodycopy. \"\"Email : \"\" .$Email. \"\"<br>\"\";\n if ($Address != \"\"\"\") $Bodycopy. \"\"Address : \"\" .$Address. \"\"<br>\"\";\n if ($City != \"\"\"\") $Bodycopy. \"\"City : \"\" .$City. \"\"<br>\"\"; \n if ($State != \"\"\"\") $Bodycopy. \"\"State : \"\" .$State. \"\"<br>\"\";\n if ($Zip != \"\"\"\") $Bodycopy. \"\"Zip/Postal Code : \"\" .$Zip. \"\"<br>\"\";\n if ($Phone != \"\"\"\") $Bodycopy. \"\"Phone : \"\" .$Phone. \"\"<br>\"\";\n if ($F != \"\"\"\") $Bodycopy. \"\"F : \"\" .$F. \"\"<br>\"\";\n if ($ProductDesc != \"\"\"\") $Bodycopy. \"\"UPC or product description : \"\" .$ProductDesc. \"\"<br>\"\";\n\n $Bodycopy. \"\"<br>----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br><br>\"\";\n\n if ($Comment != \"\"\"\") $Bodycopy. \"\"Comments : <br>\"\" .$Comment. \"\"<br>\"\";\n\n $Bodycopy. \"\"<br><br>\"\";\n $Bodycopy. $IP = $_SERVER[\"\"remote_addr\"\"];\n\n// PROCESS EMAIL\n\n// mail server info...\n\n $from = $SendTo;\n $to = \"\"Do Not Reply <donotreply@------>\"\";\n $subject = \"\"Website Contact : \"\" . $GlobalLocation;\n $body = $Bodycopy;\n $host = \"\"mail.------\"\";\n $port = \"\"25\"\";\n $username = \"\"donotreply@-------\"\";\n $password = \"\"-------\"\";\n\n $headers = array ('From' => $from,\n 'To' => $to,\n 'Subject' => $subject);\n $smtp = Mail::factory('smtp',\n array ('host' => $host,\n 'auth' => true,\n 'port' => $port,\n 'username' => $username,\n 'password' => $password));\n\n $mail = $smtp->send($to, $headers, $body);\n\n if (PEAR::isError($mail)) {\n echo(\"\"<p>\"\" . $mail->getMessage() . \"\"</p>\"\");\n } else {\n echo(\"\"<p>Message successfully sent!</p>\"\");\n }\n\n// MAKE SURE DB CONN IS CLOSED\n mysql_close($dbc);\n\n// REDIRECT TO THANK YOU PAGE\n header ('Location: /index.php?option');\n exit();\n\n}\n\n?>\n\n\",acctman,https://codereview.stackexchange.com/users/13137,\"Although it'll lenghten your code quite a bit, in my opinion it's worth checking if the $_POST variables are set (using isset), to avoid any exceptions.\n\",mikeythemissile,https://codereview.stackexchange.com/users/13145,http://codereview.stackexchange.com/questions/11466/verify-post-script-will-work-correctly,TECHNOLOGY,codereview.stackexchange.com,1.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,1.0,0.3333333333333333,1.0,0.4444444444444444,0.4444444444444444,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.8888888888888888,0.5555555555555556,1.0,1.0,0.6,1.0,0.0,0.3333333333333333,1.0\n17,\"what's the relation between sensor size and image quality (noise, dynamic range)?\",\"I'm reading this description on sensor size:\n\n\n Digital compact cameras have substantially smaller sensors offering a\n similar number of pixels. As a consequence, the pixels are much\n smaller, which is a key reason for the image quality difference,\n especially in terms of noise and dynamic range.\n\n\nCould you please elaborate on the last sentence: what's the relation between sensor size and image quality? In particular, what are the advantages and disadvantages of a small sensor (of a compact camera, in contrast to a large sensor of a DSLR camera)?\n\",cody,https://photo.stackexchange.com/users/11005,\"A digital image sensor is ultimately a device that uses the photovoltaic or photoconductive properties of photodiodes to convert photons into electrons (charge), which can later be read out as a saturation value and converted to a digital pixel. This is an analog-to-analog then analog-to-digital conversion process. \n\nThe key behavior of a photodiode relevant to imaging, converting photons to electrons, improves with total surface area. The more surface area, the greater the area to detect photon strikes per photodiode, and the greater the physical material area within which electron charge (signal) can be collected. In other words, larger physical pixel area equates to higher signal ratio. The \"\"depth\"\" of a well is ultimately immaterial to modern Bayer-type CFA sensors, as deeper penetration only really has a filtration effect...the deeper a photon penetrates a photodiode, the more blueshifted light will be filtered out in favor of redshifted light. This is due to the response curve of the type of silicon used in photodiodes...which are more sensitive to infrared wavelengths than visible light wavelengths, and more sensitive to visible light wavelengths than ultraviolet and x-ray wavelengths.\n\nFinally, being electronic devices, image sensors produce a variety of forms of electronic noise. In particular, they are susceptible to a low number of electrons in any given photodiode being generated from the low level of dark current that is always running through the sensor. Being devices sensitive to electromagnetic frequencies, the intrinsic field of the sensor itself can be affected by strong, nearby devices that emit electromagnetic frequencies of their own (if its not shielded properly) which can produce banding. Slight differences in the exact electrical response of each pixel can produce slight variations in how the charge accumulated in a photodiode is read out, and there can be thermally induced forms of noise. These forms of noise create a signal floor wherein it becomes difficult or impossible to determine of a digital pixel level is the product of an actual photon capture or due to electronic and thermal noise. So long as the image signal is larger than the noise floor, or in other words the signal to noise ratio (SNR) is high, a useful image can be produced.\n\nAll things being equal...and by that, I mean the same number of pixels, the same ultimate sensor design characteristics, the same amount of dark current, the same amount of read noise...a smaller sensor will be noisier than a larger sensor because the larger sensor, with the exact same number of pixels, can have larger surface area for each of those pixels, allowing more electrons to be captured for any given photon strike. A larger pixel has a higher maximum saturation point, which allows more total electron charge before the pixel is \"\"full\"\" or totally white. That intrinsically increases SNR, reducing the impact that electronic noise has on the final image signal, producing less noisy images at exactly the same settings as a smaller sensor.\n\nDynamic range is the total usable tonal range available from a sensor. It is ultimately affected by the amount of electronic noise present in a sensor and the maximum saturation point of the pixels, or the ratio between the mean of electronic noise and the maximum saturation point of each pixel in the sensor. Again, all things being equal, dynamic range will be better on a larger sensor as the SNR, even at low signal levels, is going to be slightly better than a smaller sensor, and at higher signal levels it can be significantly better. As is often the case with image sensors these days, increasing pixel size, or for that matter increasing a pixels maximum sensitivity (ISO), has the effect of also increasing the maximum amount of read noise at low ISO. This is ultimately due to poor control over electronic noise to start with, resulting in higher read noise at minimum ISO for larger sensors than for smaller sensors. While the increase in read noise is often still minor compared to the increase in maximum saturation point, and therefor does not affect maximum SNR much, it can mitigate or eliminate any gains at the sensors minimal SNR level, reducing or eliminating any improvement in dynamic range as well.\n\",jrista,https://photo.stackexchange.com/users/124,http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/26001/whats-the-relation-between-sensor-size-and-image-quality-noise-dynamic-range,LIFE_ARTS,photo.stackexchange.com,0.8888888888888888,1.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.0,1.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,1.0,1.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,1.0\n18,\"multiple keys via HKDF - whats better, one or two applications of HKDF-extract\",\"Assume for the sake of the question that I have two variable-length bit strings, each with 128 bit cryptographic randomness, and I want to extract two 128 bit keys via HKDF-SHA256.\n\nWhich alternative is better (if any), and why?\n\n\nUse a single HKDF-extract on the concatenation of the two strings, and two HKDF-expands with different info strings to get two 128 bit keys.\nUse two HKDF-extract operations, one for each bit string, and use a single HKDF-expand on each to get two 128 bit keys.\n\n\nOr in other words, is it better to HKDF-extract on a longer IKM string and use multiple HKDF-expands, or is it better to use HKDF on independent but shorter IKMs.\n\nMy intuition tells me that, if my randomness strings are really as good as I claim, then two independent HKDF extracts are better, but using a single one on the concatenation is, in practice, just as safe, and safer if my input randomness is not actually as good as assumed, so two HKDFs might be more robust in practice.\n\",Marc Lehmann,https://crypto.stackexchange.com/users/7672,\"Realistically, it probably doesn't matter, if all of your premises are accurate.\n\nIf it were me, I'd probably concatenate the inputs, then apply a HKDF to the concatenation to derive two keys -- but honestly, it's unlikely to matter. This is very unlikely to be the weakest link in your system. Pick something that's easy to implement and easy to understand, and move on: focus your energy on some other aspect of your system.\n\",D.W.,https://crypto.stackexchange.com/users/351,http://crypto.stackexchange.com/questions/9318/multiple-keys-via-hkdf-whats-better-one-or-two-applications-of-hkdf-extract,TECHNOLOGY,crypto.stackexchange.com,1.0,1.0,0.0,1.0,1.0,0.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,1.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,1.0,0.3333333333333333,1.0,1.0,0.9,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0\n19,What filter should I use to avoid overly-whitened daylight images?,\"What filter should I use to avoid whitened images (blown highlights) caused by intense daylight? At the moment I am only using an UV Filter, but it doesn't solve the whole problem.\n\nI am a newbie in photography, and I've recently bought a Nikon DSLR.\n\",Daniel,https://photo.stackexchange.com/users/6471,\"If you are indeed referring to your images having too much contrast to allow for both a properly exposed subject and sky, then there are a few options.\n\n\nAs Zak stated, you could use exposure compensation to darken the entire image (this might make the non-sky portion of the image too dark though)\nUse a graduated neutral density filter. This will selectively darken one part of an image while leaving the other part alone. This is the old-school method. While it typically limits the transition between the filtered and unfiltered parts to a straight line, it does allow you to fix things at the time of the shot without having to spend time tweaking it on the computer afterwards. \nHDR (High Dynamic Range) photography. This is the hi-tech way to do things. This requires that you take multiple shots of the same scene at different exposures and use software to combine them into one image where both the highlights and shadows are well-exposed. \n\n\",AndrewStevens,https://photo.stackexchange.com/users/6186,http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/15334/what-filter-should-i-use-to-avoid-overly-whitened-daylight-images,LIFE_ARTS,photo.stackexchange.com,1.0,1.0,0.3333333333333333,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.0,1.0,0.5555555555555556,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,1.0,1.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,1.0\n22,Create heatmap with PSTricks or TikZ,\"I have a huge amount of 2D-coordinates, associated with a value, e.g.:\n\n x | y | value\n27.50 52.15 12.51\n61.83 13.32 57.56\n36.23 21.83 41.73\n40.46 85.67 25.20\n...\n\n\nThe data is not tabular and I Want the points between two data-points to be interpolated in some way (which way is not really clear, yet)\n\nI want to preset the data as heatmap like this:\n\n\nIs there any ready-to-use package for PSTricks or TikZ to do it?\n\",user2033412,https://tex.stackexchange.com/users/35228,\"There is tikzDevice for R which will generate TikZ code for a plot created in R. So, if you use R to create your heat map (say, using ggplot2's geom_density2d()), you also get the TikZ code with little effort. There is a learning curve, though.\n\nHowever, this kind of image should be included as a (perhaps high-resolution) raster image in your document, as the vector version might take a long time to render. So you can create a TikZ version of the plot, compile it to PDF and then convert to PNG at the required resolution/pixel density.\n\",krlmlr,https://tex.stackexchange.com/users/8057,http://tex.stackexchange.com/questions/133882/create-heatmap-with-pstricks-or-tikz,TECHNOLOGY,tex.stackexchange.com,1.0,0.7777777777777778,0.0,1.0,1.0,1.0,0.5555555555555556,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.7777777777777778,0.5555555555555556,0.7777777777777778,0.7777777777777778,1.0,0.9333333333333332,1.0,0.0,0.0,1.0\n23,Can you book hotels on a prepaid credit card worldwide?,\"I tend to stay at smaller boutique hotels or local apartments when I visit a city but recently due to some credit card issues I will need to depend on prepaid Visa. But I noticed when I try to shop online a lot of retailers don't accept prepaid credit cards so I'm thinking hotels would be even stricter. Is there a list somewhere of countries or particular hotel chains than ban prepaid cards? If so, how does one book online or reserve a room without a card? Do all hotels worldwide accept cash?\n\",verve,https://travel.stackexchange.com/users/2283,\"TL;DR - Depends, on your pre-paid card, the hotel, and how you book the hotel.\n\nThere are a few different charges to consider here:\n\n\nPre-payment of the room at/shortly after booking\nHolding the room on a flexible booking\nDeposit at checkin\nRoom charge, meals, drinks, extras etc at checkout\n\n\nWith many OTAs and hotel websites, if you make a non flexible booking, or some kinds of flexible bookings, they will charge your card for the room rate during the booking process. With some others, they'll send your card details through to the hotel, who'll put it through their tills later. (Maybe that day, maybe during a weekly sweep). In order for this pre-payment to go through, your card will need to support offline / cardholder-not-present transactions. As long as your card advertises itself as \"\"suitable for online shopping\"\" or similar, and as long as the card issuer doesn't block travel booking, you should be fine. Speak to your card issuer to be sure.\n\nAlternately, when reserving the room, you might opt for a flexible rate where you pay at checkout, with no pre-payment. This is typically offered on the hotel's own site, and some OTAs. They will normally ask for a credit card to \"\"hold\"\" the reservation, which would be charged in the event of a no-show, but as long as you turn up as planned the card won't be charged. These rates are normally a bit more expensive than non-flexible pre-paid ones, but this style of booking should be fine on any card.\n\nAt checkin, most hotels (but not all) will want to take some sort of deposit. Typically this covers any unpaid parts of the room rate, along with expected spend in the restaurant / bar / etc. The details taken would also be used in the event of damage. If you've pre-paid the room and don't plan to run up extras in the hotel, many hotels would let you not leave a deposit, but not all. Very small hotels may take a look at you, decide you look fine, and tell you to pay everything at checkout. Some hotels may want to take something no matter what.\n\nFor the deposit, this is normally done as a pre-authorisation. Not all pre-paid card support this, which would be a problem. Some pre-paid cards do support it, but badly, and might take a week or so to release the reserved funds, which could be a problem. Check with your card issuer about this. Alternately, many hotels which require a deposit will be willing to take a cash deposit, but they may well want a larger cash deposit than they'd normally authorise on a credit card. (They can't charge extras to the card later for example). Expect to leave a hefty chunk of cash as a deposit, expect checkin to take a while, expect several people to count the money, bills may be checked for counterfeits, and expect a receipt at the end. Speak with the hotel first to see if they need a deposit, and if they take cash ones. As a datapoint, I once got stuck in a checkin queue behind someone doing a cash deposit, he was asked to leave something like 4 nights room rate as a deposit on a 2 night stay.\n\nFinally, we have settling up the bill at the end. If you pre-paid, and didn't eat there, you could well find there's nothing to pay, or just a few dollars / pounds / euros in city taxes. Alternately, if you didn't pre pay (or they didn't take it), ate in the restaurant lots etc, you could have a decent amount to pay here. You'll be present, so any card which supports in-person transactions will be fine for this. Well, as long as you have the money on it for the bill that is! If you did a cash deposit, you should get the choice between taking the bill off that and getting the remainder, or getting the whole deposit back in cash and paying on a card.\n\nOh, one more possibility - charges not noticed at checkout. Maybe you forgot to tell them about the minibar charges, maybe that morning's breakfast didn't go through, something like that. If you used a credit card for the deposit, expect them to charge it to that later when they notice. If you paid cash, expect to get a bill in the mail some time later.\n\nCan it be done - sure! Can it be done at one specific hotel with one particular kind of pre-paid card on one specific rate booked one specific way? Depends...\n\",Gagravarr,https://travel.stackexchange.com/users/26,http://travel.stackexchange.com/questions/35395/can-you-book-hotels-on-a-prepaid-credit-card-worldwide,CULTURE,travel.stackexchange.com,0.7777777777777778,0.7777777777777778,0.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.5,0.6666666666666666,0.6666666666666666,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.8888888888888888,1.0,0.7777777777777778,1.0,0.8888888888888888,0.9333333333333332,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.8888888888888888\n24,Fiber Channel SAN hooked up to 2 ESXi Hosts,\"I have a PowerVault with 4 FC modules at 8gb/s. I don't want to jack the SAN into our 10/100/1000 switch because of the max 1gb/s speed.\n\nMy question is can I jack both ESXi host's FC into the SAN's FCs and have HV and vMotion?\n\",Frank,https://serverfault.com/users/95480,\"The SAN itself doesn't need an Ethernet connection in this case, all it needs is FC to the ESXi hosts. The ESXi hosts will need GigE Ethernet. During VMotion, the source ESXi starts sending machine-state to the target ESXi host over the VMKernel connection in the virtual-switch. That's actually a connection between the two ESXi hosts over your physical Ethernet switch. Meanwhile, when state is fully transferred control of the VMDK files is passed over to the target server it it goes live. So, vMotion requires both FC and Ethernet.\n\nHA (what I presume you meant by HV) requires vMotion to work, so should be available if vMotion is working. \n\nUnless you meant Hardware Virtualization, or direct LUN presentation. That can also work, but is trickier. The same volume needs to be presented to both ESXi hosts using exactly the same LUN number, if it doesn't have the same LUN number that volume won't be visible when the VM is on one or the other ESXi host. \n\",sysadmin1138,https://serverfault.com/users/3038,http://serverfault.com/questions/314105,TECHNOLOGY,serverfault.com,0.7777777777777778,0.5555555555555556,0.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,0.5555555555555556,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.3333333333333333,1.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.8888888888888888,0.6666666666666666,0.6666666666666666,0.6666666666666666,0.8888888888888888,0.9,0.3333333333333333,0.3333333333333333,0.6666666666666666,1.0\n25,How do I remove a Facebook app request?,\"Unfortunately, because of some fat fingering when browsing the Klout website from my iPad I accidentally sent app requests to 50 friends. I am really annoyed by these sort of requests and certainly did not intend to send them to my friends.\n\n\nCan I view the app requests I've sent on Facebook?\nCan I undo the requests that I've sent?\nCan I add a privacy setting to prevent any Facebook app (Klout or otherwise) from ever sending these requests in the future?\n\n\",ahsteele,https://webapps.stackexchange.com/users/186,\"There isn't a native way with Klout's UI that I am aware of. Your best bet is finding a Chrome Extension that handles Facebook JS SDK API calls, then you can do something like this\n\nFB.api('/me/apprequests', function(response) {\n var ids = [];\n for (var i=0, l=response.data.length; i<l; i++) {\n FB.api('/' + response.data[i].id, 'DELETE', \n function(response){ console.log('cleared request:' + response) } \n );\n console.log('For: ' + response.data[i].to.name);\n }\n});\n\n\nQuick and dirty would be to just paste this into your Developer console on Klout's page.\n\n\n\",phwd,https://webapps.stackexchange.com/users/40,http://webapps.stackexchange.com/questions/37568/how-do-i-remove-a-facebook-app-request,TECHNOLOGY,webapps.stackexchange.com,1.0,0.5555555555555556,0.0,0.3333333333333333,1.0,1.0,0.8888888888888888,0.8888888888888888,1.0,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.8888888888888888,0.5555555555555556,1.0,1.0,0.7333333333333333,1.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.8888888888888888\n27,How often do I need to change my oil in a VW TDI?,\"The manual for my 2003 VW TDI says to change the oil every 12 months or 10,000 miles. My dealer says every 6 months or 5,000 miles.\n\nAre they just trying to make twice as much money off my oil changes, or is there a legitimate reason to change the oil twice as often as VW originally printed in the book?\n\",Ken,https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/users/3547,\"2013 Passat TDI. Have an oil analysis done and quit speculating. I change at 8.5 to 9k as that is when the additive package was low on my last analysis. \n\",pete,https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/users/7604,http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/6856/how-often-do-i-need-to-change-my-oil-in-a-vw-tdi,CULTURE,mechanics.stackexchange.com,1.0,1.0,0.0,0.5,1.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.5555555555555556,0.0,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.3333333333333333,0.7777777777777778,0.7777777777777778,0.5,0.6666666666666666,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.6666666666666666\n29,Does this statement make any sense?,\"I am asking this question completely out of curiosity. The other day, my roommate, by mistake, used 'Light year' as a unit of time instead of distance. When I corrected him (pedantic, much), he said the following:\n\n\"\"Units are relative. And according to Fourier Transforms, units can be changed so Light year is a unit of time.\"\"\n\nThat got me thinking and I read up Fourier Transforms on wikipedia but couldn't find anything about using a unit in one domain as a unit for another measurement. I do agree that units (particularly, base units are relative. eg: the meter), but does his statement make any sense?\n\nEDIT\nThank you everyone for all the answers. It isn't so much to in it in or prove a point as it is to understand the concept better. Anyways this is his response after I showed him this thread. Any comments would be appreciated.\n\nHis response:\nNevermind, for the first time I accept I was wrong. BUT using lightyears to measure time is possible. My example didn't make sense bacause I was wrong when I meantioned that I'm still measuring dist. If you have a signal in time domain and ...take the FT, I get a signal which DOES NOT HAVE to be in frequency domain. Clarify this to the guy who posted last. Now the new signal is in a domain defined by me and so is its units. This signal although not equal to the original signal, still represents that if ya take an inverse FT. So, the idea of time will still be there. Now coming back to our case: lightyears here is not the lightyears you are used to read when dealing with distance. It represents time.\n\",xbonez,https://physics.stackexchange.com/users/436,\"This doesn't make much sense: light year is in any case a unit of distance.\n\nWhat is common is to use \"\"reduced units\"\", for examples units where $c=1$ (speed of light) or $h=2\\pi$. But in these cases the opposite would happen: you would say \"\"year\"\" to mean a distance. Or for example you say \"\"has a mass of xyz MeV\"\" instead of \"\"$MeV/c^2$\"\".\n\n\n\nAbout the Fourier transform: this allow to go from the so-called \"\"time domain\"\" (even if \"\"time\"\" is not always the usual time) to the \"\"frequency domain\"\" involving ... frequencies.\n\nBut as you can see this cannot change the definition of light-year.\n\",Cedric H.,https://physics.stackexchange.com/users/82,http://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/862/does-this-statement-make-any-sense,SCIENCE,physics.stackexchange.com,0.8333333333333334,0.6666666666666666,0.5,0.5,0.5,0.5,0.6666666666666666,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.5,0.0,0.0,0.5,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.5,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.8333333333333334,0.6666666666666666,1.0,1.0,0.8,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.8333333333333334\n30,\"2 servers, high availability and faster response\",\"I recently bought a second webserver because I worry about hardware failure of my old server. Now that I have that second server I wish to do a little more then just have one server standby and replicate all day. As long as it's there I might as well get some advantage our of it !\n\nI have a website powered by ubuntu 12.04, nginx, php-fpm, apc, mysql (5.5) and couchdb.\n\nIm currently testing configurations where i can achieve failover AND make good use of the extra harware for faster responses / distributed load.\n\nThe setup I am testing nowinvolves heartbeat for ip failover and two identical servers. Of the two servers only one has a public ip adress. If one server crashes the other server takes over the public ip adress. On an incoming request nginx forwards the request tot php-fpm to either server a of server b (50/50 if both servers are alive). Once the request has been send to php-fpm both servers look at localhost for the mysql server. I use master-master mysql replication for this. The file system is synced with lsyncd.\n\nThis works pretty well but Im reading it's discouraged by the (mysql) community.\n\nAnother option I could think of is to use one server as a mysql master and one server as a web/php server. The servers would still sync their filesystem, would still run the same duplicate software (nginx,mysql) but master slave mysql replication could be used. As long as bother servers are alive I could just prefer nginx to listen to ip a and mysql to ip b. If one server is down, the other server could take over the task of the other server, simply by ip switching. \n\nBut im completely new at this so I would greatly value your expert advice. Is either of the two setups any good ? If you have any thoughts on this please let me know !\n\nPS, virtualisation, hosting on different locations or active/passive setups are not solutions im looking for. I find virtual server either too slow or too expensive. I already have a passive failover on another location. But in case of a crash I found the site was still unreachable for too long due to dns caching.\n\",user17886,https://serverfault.com/users/133018,\"We do it on all our customer HA boxes and our Magento MicroCloudTM/ configurations, so that the fail over system(s) isn't idle. Look into DRBD, Linux VServer and heartbeat. \n\nRead the following for an insight into it.\n\nhttp://linux-vserver.org/Getting_high_with_lenny\n\nCaveat\nBut as always, we advise not trying to do this unless you have substantial experience, as you are more likely to end up with a more unreliable configuration, that is harder to debug and if you end up in a split brain situation, more likely to have data loss ... than a plain old single server.\n\",Ben Lessani - Sonassi,https://serverfault.com/users/113375,http://serverfault.com/questions/430759,TECHNOLOGY,serverfault.com,0.8888888888888888,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.4444444444444444,0.3333333333333333,0.3333333333333333,0.0,1.0,0.3333333333333333,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,1.0,0.9333333333333332,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.8888888888888888\n31,Why does string theory have such a huge landscape?,\"I was browsing through Foundations of Space and Time, a compilation of essays on various theories of quantum gravity. The following passage in the introduction intrigued me:\n\n\n Each compactification leads to a different vacuum state.... at least one state should describe our Universe in its entirety.... the enormous number (~10^500 at last count) of solutions, with no perturbative mechanism to select mechanism to select among them, leads some critics to question the predictive power of the theory..Even more worrying is that, while the theory is perturbatively finite order by order, the perturbation series does not seem to converge.\n\n\nI don't know anything about string theory and so I could not make head or tails this. All I know is that ~$10^{500}$ is a very large number. \n\n\nWhat exactly is a 'solution' in string theory? Is it a spacetime metric of some sort or the terms of a S-matrix of some sort? \nWhy are there so many 'solutions'? \nI thought string theory was supposed to be finite, why do perturbative series still diverge?\nIs there any experimental technique to limit the number of 'solutions'? \nWill experimental techniques be able to pinpoint a solution within present day string theorists' lifetimes too? If not, how long will it take before we can experimentally probe these things? \nAre string theorists completely relaxed about these issues? Or are they in anguish? \n\n\",dj_mummy,https://physics.stackexchange.com/users/28244,\"\n \"\"Each compactification leads to a different vacuum state.... at least\n one state should describe our Universe in its entirety.... the\n enormous number (~10^500 at last count) of solutions, with no\n perturbative mechanism to select mechanism to select among them, leads\n some critics to question the predicitive power of the theory..Even\n more worrying is that, while the theory is perturubatively finite\n order by order, the pertrubation series does not seem to converge.\"\"\n\n\nOk. \n\n\n I don't know anything about string theory and so I could not make head\n or tails this. All I know is that ~10^500 is a very large number.\n\n\nThat, it is. \n\n\n What exactly is a 'solution' in string theory? Is it a spacetime\n metric of some sort or the terms of a S-matrix of some sort? \n\n\nSo, we have a non-peturbative definition of M-theory and string theories on AdS Space through the AdS/.CFT correspondence. Now, these are 10 or 11-dimensional. To get rid of the extra 6 or 7 dimensions, you need to compactify it on a 6-dimensional or 7-dimensional manifold. \n\nA particularly convinient compactifications of 11-dimensional M-theory is on $G(2)$-holonomy manifolds. Particularly convinient compactifications of 10-dimensional string theories, such as Type HE, are on $SU(3)$-holonomy Calabi-Yau manifolds. Of course, it's not necessary; e.g. if the world happens to be something with $\\mathcal N=2$ supersymmetry, as opposed to $\\mathcal N=1$. \n\n\n Why are there so many 'solutions'? \n\n\nBecause there are lots of these manifolds! \n\n\n I thought string theory was supposed to be finite, why do perturbative\n series still diverge? \n\n\nUh... Yes. But it's renormaliable. And there are non-peturbative definitions in AdS spacetime. \n\n\n Is there any experimental technique to limit the number of\n 'solutions'? Will experimental techniques be able to pinpoint a\n solution within present day string theorists' life times too? If\n not, how long will it take before we can experimentally probe these\n things?\n\n\nIn principle, it's possible. But in anyone's lifetime... Do you know how big $10^{500} $ is? % See this. \n\n\n Are string theorists completely relaxed about these issues? Or are\n they in anguish? \n\n\nThere's the branch of String Phenomenology that attempts to find the correct vacua... \n\",centralcharge,https://physics.stackexchange.com/users/23119,http://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/75441/why-does-string-theory-have-such-a-huge-landscape,SCIENCE,physics.stackexchange.com,1.0,0.5555555555555556,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.6666666666666666,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.5555555555555556,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,1.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,1.0,1.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,1.0\n32,What are the benefits of owning a physical book?,\"I have seen this question about updates of the D&D 4th Edition books, and it got me thinking.\nSince I got my Kindle I have not read a single paper novel; they have fewer drawbacks compared to digital copies than rpg rulebooks.\n\n\nDead-tree types have some benefits like looking good on a bookshelf, but any ebook reader weighs less with 100 novels than the usual hard-cover book. \nIf you want to look for the damage of Ares Alpha, even with a half-decent tablet it takes less than 2 seconds. \nDigital copies do not get worn, they never get unwanted earmarks, but you can bookmark them.\nRulebooks do get updates, and unless you are willing to take a pen to your book, your hard copies will never contain them. The pdfs can be edited and resent to the buyers. \nEven better is the WotC approach with the DDI, you can look up any monster or item or (almost any) rule, in the most recent form, for 3 years at the cost of seven books. \n\n\nI think this is the way to go, even considering the horribly slow character builder. Although I must admit good illustration can help build the athmosphere.\n\nSo what am I missing? Why are people buying rpg rulebooks in paper format? Why are books even published, I do not need to know if feats are supposed to be on the right page and skills on the left, I just want a list of them, filterable any way I want. \n\nIs this just a necessary part of earning money? I understand that pdfs are copied illegally, but the Compendium is not. \n\",András,https://rpg.stackexchange.com/users/9552,\"As others have said - there's definitely something to be said about tactile navigation. \n\nWhile digital formats (assuming they're text-parseable) can be searched, if you don't know the specific spelling or the specific term, they can be difficult to parse by hand. Quadruply so if the publisher did not provide bookmarks to the different chapters. (Which is really annoying, imo.)\n\nBy contrast, with a physical copy, you can pick up a general sense of where the desired content is physically located fairly quickly. For example: Combat Rules are towards the middle. Spell lists are towards the end. Character classes are near the beginning. The more familiar one is with the book, the quicker this is to process (and more accurate one tends to get).\n\nAdditionally - I stare at a digital monitor all day at work; then for most of the evening. So if I actually have to read something, I'll opt for ink on paper, just to save my eyes that itty little bit. :) \n\n(Kindles are awesome, but they can be slow; plus, some books have art work and/or tables that I am unsure would translate over very well.)\n\",phil,https://rpg.stackexchange.com/users/5603,http://rpg.stackexchange.com/questions/34615/what-are-the-benefits-of-owning-a-physical-book,CULTURE,rpg.stackexchange.com,1.0,0.3333333333333333,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.8888888888888888,0.8888888888888888,1.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,1.0,0.8888888888888888,0.6666666666666666,1.0,1.0,0.9333333333333332,0.0,0.0,1.0,1.0\n33,I teleported too high on my Minecraft server,\"My friends own a Minecraft server and I was playing around with commands when I teleported to y 100000000000000000000000000000000 just because I wanted to see how high maps could go. That was a big mistake. Now every time I go on the server I crash. \n\nI don't have access to the server files and I don't have the owner's email or phone number or anything and I'm the only one that plays on the server. I know that one solution is to make a new Minecraft character but that would involve me to pay. \n\nIs there some way I can delete my player information or change the location without access to the server files? I don't want to leave the server because I've been building a castle for 3 months now and I don't want to give up that easy.\n\",josiah,https://gaming.stackexchange.com/users/49831,\"Yer, you're basically screwed :I. Even though you don't have contact to the owner maybe try and get a friend to go online and get them to teleport you to the ground or get them to contact the owner, as only he will be able to fix this.\n\",ReallyGoodPie,https://gaming.stackexchange.com/users/47440,http://gaming.stackexchange.com/questions/119737/i-teleported-too-high-on-my-minecraft-server,CULTURE,gaming.stackexchange.com,0.8888888888888888,0.3333333333333333,0.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,0.5555555555555556,0.5555555555555556,0.0,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,1.0,0.9333333333333332,1.0,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.8888888888888888\n36,How can I write HTML and send as an email?,\"I want to send HTML email from my Outlook or Yahoo, Gmail, Hotmail. I wasn't able to find any such option where I could write HTML which will then be rendered at the receiver's end. How can I do that?\n\",Umair Jabbar,https://webapps.stackexchange.com/users/2676,\"HTML in email clients is a very very thorny problem because most of them do not just embed a browser, but implement random subsets of the HTML and CSS. And there is a LOT of email clients.\n\nIf you really do need to do this, you may look at professional solutions from Mailing List Marketing companies. It is a known problem in that space and there are services, tutorials (example) and checklists for that. Here is a service from MailChimp. Most of the providers offer something similar.\n\",Alexandre Rafalovitch,https://webapps.stackexchange.com/users/2820,http://webapps.stackexchange.com/questions/7932/how-can-i-write-html-and-send-as-an-email,TECHNOLOGY,webapps.stackexchange.com,1.0,0.8888888888888888,0.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.7777777777777778,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.8888888888888888,0.5555555555555556,1.0,1.0,0.7333333333333333,0.0,0.0,1.0,1.0\n38,Why is the potential function defined differently in physics and calculus?,\"I am very familiar with the concept of a potential function, and potential energy, from calculus-based physics.\n\nFor instance, if we have the familiar force field $\\mathbf{F} = -mg \\,\\mathbf{j}$, then a potential function is given by $U = mgy + C$. (Since potential energy is relative, we have an infinite number of potential functions.)\n\nNotice that the gradient of the potential function is the negative of the force field: $$\\nabla U = \\nabla(mgy + C) = mg \\,\\mathbf{j} = -\\mathbf{F}.$$\n\nThat was perfectly fine with me. But now in vector calculus, I am reading that the potential function $f$ of a vector function $\\mathbf{F}$ is such that $\\nabla f = \\mathbf{F}$. A negative sign appears to have been lost when migrating from physics to calculus.\n\nIt seems confusing to call $f$ a \"\"potential function\"\", since it cannot be interpreted as potential energy in the real world. So why is the calculus nomenclature as it is (i.e., why not call this something else and then say the potential function is the negative of it)?\n\",Radon Rosborough,https://math.stackexchange.com/users/160658,\"Recall where the negative sign comes from in physics -- it is simply due to your coordinate system and point of view. The difference is analogous to the difference between work done by gravity and work done on gravity.\n\",Nitin,https://math.stackexchange.com/users/217285,http://math.stackexchange.com/questions/1335576/why-is-the-potential-function-defined-differently-in-physics-and-calculus,SCIENCE,math.stackexchange.com,1.0,0.7777777777777778,0.0,1.0,1.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.4444444444444444,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,0.8888888888888888,1.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,1.0,0.9333333333333332,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.8888888888888888\n40,What is Cold Iron actually?,\"It came up in Dresden Files, but is not limited to that game, you can find the term in DnD as well. I would like to know what it means. \n\nIf you look for Cold Iron on Wikipedia, you only get iron: \n\"\"Cold iron is a poetic and archaic term for iron.\"\"\nThis would imply everything made mostly from Fe is cold iron. Clearly, this is not the case, in every game Cold Iron is something special, the every day sword is not made out of it. \n\nThe Dresden Files rulebook is not very specific about it:\n\n\n something that anyone could reasonably get access to, but usually doesn’t carry on them (like cold iron) page 185.\n\n\nWhat is cold iron?\nHow do I create cold iron?\nHow do I get cold iron? \n\nTo make the question easier to understand, compare Cold Iron to Holy Water. You know how it is different from usual Water, you know how you get it or create it. \n\",András,https://rpg.stackexchange.com/users/9552,\"Based on the events of Summer Knight cold iron is, in fact, just iron. Dresden\n\n\n kills Aurora with hundreds of pixies wielding common hobby knives with plastic casings. The book specifically mentions how the cold iron of the knife blades makes the relatively minor cuts deadly to the Summer Lady.\n\n\nReferencing your quote, how much steel do you have on you right now? Sure, some people still carry a Leatherman or a pocket knife but most don't in the US these days. However, how easy is it to get one? In Summer Knight Dresden specifically mentions needing to\n\n\n stop at Walmart prior to the climatic battle but not what he needs,\n\n\nwhich is saved for the big reveal at the Stone Table.\n\",HerbN,https://rpg.stackexchange.com/users/14,http://rpg.stackexchange.com/questions/40826/what-is-cold-iron-actually,CULTURE,rpg.stackexchange.com,1.0,0.5555555555555556,0.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.6666666666666666,0.5555555555555556,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.3333333333333333,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.8888888888888888,1.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,1.0,0.9333333333333332,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0\n41,\"Relationship between user story, feature, and epic?\",\"As someone whose still new to agile, I'm not sure I completely understand the relationship or difference between a user story, feature, and epic.\n\nAccording to this question, a feature is a collection of stories. One of the answers suggest that a feature is actually an epic. \n\nSo are features and epics considered the same thing, which is basically a collection of related user stories?\n\nOur project manager insists that there's a hierarchical structure:\n\nEpic -> Features -> User stories\n\n... basically all user stories must fall within this structure. Therefore all user stories must fall under an umbrella feature and all features must fall under an epic.\n\nTo me, that sounds awkward. Can someone please clarify how user stories, features, and epics are related? Or is there an article that clearly outlines the differences?\n\",nivlam,https://programmers.stackexchange.com/users/45,\"I caution you against applying too rigid a hierarchy to these terms. We tried to do that in my previous job. Twice. Both attempts were different and both times we found we had unnecessarily limited ourselves. The only constant was the definition of a User Story. From a planning perspective, a story is the basic building block of a project. The larger terms (epic, feature, etc.) are effectively just tags. Tags are an easy way to allow a story to exist as part of multiple Epics and multiple Features at the same time. It's not worth the mental effort to be more strict than that.\n\nTags work for Stack Exchange and they can work for you too.\n\",Kristo,https://programmers.stackexchange.com/users/1111,http://programmers.stackexchange.com/questions/182158/relationship-between-user-story-feature-and-epic,TECHNOLOGY,programmers.stackexchange.com,0.8888888888888888,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.3333333333333333,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.5555555555555556,0.4444444444444444,1.0,0.0,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.0,1.0,0.8888888888888888,0.5555555555555556,1.0,1.0,0.8,0.0,0.0,0.3333333333333333,1.0\n47,How do different tissue culture matrices affect background in fluorescent microscopy?,\"In response to my previous question, I've been reading up a little bit on poly-D-lysine, Collagen I, Collagen IV, laminin, and other tissue culture coatings that promote cell adhesion. I've always assumed that anything other than standard TC-treated plastic or glass would significantly increase background, but perhaps my views on background fluorescence are a little outdated. Does anybody have experience with these in a fluorescent microscopy/high-throughput screening environment?\n\nSpecifically in my case, I'm looking at endocytosis and trafficking of a labeled protein into the lysosome. I'm labeling the protein with the pH-dependent dye pHrodoTM from Molecular Probes, which supposedly has very little fluorescence at neutral pH, but becomes very bright as the pH drops when endocytic vesicles become lysosomes. This theoretically means that a final wash step is not needed, but with a matrix coating on the plates I'm worried about background.\n\nSo, what is the current thinking as far as background fluorescence of the various TC matrices is concerned? Does the background come from the matrix itself, or by the fluorescent dye becoming adsorbed to it? Is it wavelength-dependent? Fortunately I may not be stuck with my poorly-adhering cells, and I may not need supplemental matrix at all in the end, but I still want a better understanding of how it works.\n\",MattDMo,https://biology.stackexchange.com/users/948,\"Extracellular matrix (ECM) fluoresces, especially Collagen and Laminin. The maximum is in the DAPI and FITC channels and the fluorescence becomes weaker towards longer wavelengths. However, since the coat on the TC flasks is very thin, I would not expect this to be a problem. The best thing is just to try it. There is also a quite famous document available which might be of help:\n\nAutofluorescence: Causes and Cures\n\",Eekhoorn,https://biology.stackexchange.com/users/852,http://biology.stackexchange.com/questions/8656/how-do-different-tissue-culture-matrices-affect-background-in-fluorescent-micros,SCIENCE,biology.stackexchange.com,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.0,1.0,1.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.6666666666666666,1.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,1.0,0.0,1.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,1.0,0.8,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666\n48,Tips for finding SPAM links injected into the_content,\"I'm working on a client's site and I noticed that posts have a hidden <div> filled to SPAM links to dick pills, etc. Hoping to get lucky, I searched for some of the keywords in the database tables, but found no matches. I also searched the code in all the files, and also found no matches.\n\nI know that Wordpress hacks can be very tricky to remove, and they go to great lengths to make them hard to find. But perhaps there are some \"\"usual suspects\"\" that I could check, or maybe some tell-tale signs I could look for. \n\nI'm not asking for anyone to solve this specific hack. I'm just looking for advice on where (in general) to look.\n\nIn case it's useful, here's the unauthorized <div> which is injected right before the close of the first <\\p>:\n\n<div id='hideMeya'> At that requires looking for how you http://www.cialis.com <a href=\"\"http://wwxcashadvancecom.com/\"\" title=\"\"want $745? visit our site.\"\">want $745? visit our site.</a> sign any of money. Visit our secure bad creditors that cialis levitra sales viagra <a href=\"\"http://www10525.c3viagra10.com/\"\" title=\"\"viagra australia online\"\">viagra australia online</a> payday lenders know otherwise. But the black you stay on discount price levitra <a href=\"\"http://www10385.x1cialis10.com/\"\" title=\"\"what is impotence in men\"\">what is impotence in men</a> duty to their lives. Citizen at one online or after receiving their research viagra online <a href=\"\"http://www10675.80viagra10.com/\"\" title=\"\"www.viagra.com\"\">www.viagra.com</a> to just take just wait until monday. This specifically relates to shop every pay stubs get viagra without prescription <a href=\"\"http://www10154.40cialis10.com/\"\" title=\"\"cialis overnight delivery\"\">cialis overnight delivery</a> and only used or faxing required. We will turn double checked by some small business loans viagra for woman <a href=\"\"http://www10077.x1cialis10.com/\"\" title=\"\"cialis india\"\">cialis india</a> sites that works the business before approval. Living paycheck went out cash there would generate levitra <a href=\"\"http://www10450.a1viagra10.com/\"\" title=\"\"viagra cialis levitra\"\">viagra cialis levitra</a> the scheduled maturity day method. Own a short application on when money also buy cialis online <a href=\"\"http://buy4kamagra.com/\"\" title=\"\"kamagra\"\">kamagra</a> plenty of personal initial limits. Even those loans quick because lenders realize http://cialis-ca-online.com <a href=\"\"http://levitra4au.com/\"\" title=\"\"levitrafroaustraila\"\">levitrafroaustraila</a> you notice a payday advance. A loan applications are more common thanks http://www.cialis2au.com/ <a href=\"\"http://buy-7cialis.com/\"\" title=\"\"cialis\"\">cialis</a> to only apply online website. Third borrowers will use your paycheck to levitra online pharmacy <a href=\"\"http://www10675.30viagra10.com/\"\" title=\"\"viagra online purchase\"\">viagra online purchase</a> utilize these individuals can cover. Often there must also referred to ensure online pharmacy viagra usa <a href=\"\"http://www10600.90viagra10.com/\"\" title=\"\"viagra effectiveness\"\">viagra effectiveness</a> you with financial expenses. 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Third borrowers repay because payday industry has the results http://www.buy9levitra.com/ <a href=\"\"http://www10075.20viagra10.com/\"\" title=\"\"viagra recreational use\"\">viagra recreational use</a> by the middle man and check process. After verifying your question with dignity and credit cards www.levitra.com <a href=\"\"http://www10300.b2viagra10.com/\"\" title=\"\"overnight viagra delivery\"\">overnight viagra delivery</a> or drive to secure loan online. Most people for dollars you between bad and free cialis <a href=\"\"http://viagra7au.com/\"\" title=\"\"http://viagra7au.com/\"\">http://viagra7au.com/</a> instead these applicants is available. Social security against your payday the larger sums buying viagra online <a href=\"\"http://payday7online.com/\"\" title=\"\"direct lenders installment loans no credit check\"\">direct lenders installment loans no credit check</a> of gossip when working telephone calls. Face it provides hour payday industry levitra online <a href=\"\"http://www10150.30viagra10.com/\"\" title=\"\"buy viagra now\"\">buy viagra now</a> has high credit score? Within minutes during your best score range from http://cashadvance8online.com <a href=\"\"http://www10450.60viagra10.com/\"\" title=\"\"viagra dosage instructions\"\">viagra dosage instructions</a> fees if there for them most. To avoid paperwork you in crisis arise from wwwpaydayloancom.com | Online Payday Loans application form! <a href=\"\"http://www10225.80viagra10.com/\"\" title=\"\"super active viagra\"\">super active viagra</a> online from paying the bank? Funds will know to throwing your cash advance no credit check <a href=\"\"http://orderviagrauaonline.com/\"\" title=\"\"viagara online\"\">viagara online</a> finances there that purse. Companies realize that asks for which can become cialis online <a href=\"\"http://www10375.60viagra10.com/\"\" title=\"\"sublingual viagra\"\">sublingual viagra</a> eligible to paycheck some lenders. Medical bills that be much easier than actually need only online cash advance <a href=\"\"http://cashadvance8online.com\"\" title=\"\"online cash advance\"\">online cash advance</a> your funds via the freedom you out. </div><script type='text/javascript'>if(document.getElementById('hideMeya') != null){document.getElementById('hideMeya').style.visibility = 'hidden';document.getElementById('hideMeya').style.display = 'none';}</script> </p>\n\n\",emersonthis,https://wordpress.stackexchange.com/users/11363,\"In general, the best place to look is in your theme folders, specifically the main theme and in the index.php file. Then the footer and header files.\n\nAlso, check your modified dates and start with the most recently modified. Especially if there are several that were all modified around the same date/time.\n\nI've seen, and had to fix, this problem several times on people's servers. The false data is normally loaded via a script inserted into the php files of the template.\n\nFirst, you should definitely read over the Wordpress FAQ for dealing with a hacked site.\n\nCommon entry points for gaining the \"\"access\"\" required to pull the injection off are outdated themes and/or plugins. It's best to run production servers with only the one active theme on the server, as well as removing unused plugins and replacing outdated active plugins.\n\nThere are a few scripts out there that you can upload to your server to help you find infected files so you can replace, clean or delete them. (Links listed below)\n\nAgain, try looking at file modified dates and check out ones you haven't modified/installed recently yet have a recent date on the.\n\n\nLook for Bad Guys : I've used this one. It takes a bunch of configuration to root out all the false positives ... but it can at least help you get a general idea of which files to check out.\nWordfence offers the ability to scan your files with their free plugin, I can't personally endorse it though, since I haven't used it myself.\nhttps://www.wordfence.com/docs/how-to-clean-a-hacked-wordpress-site-using-wordfence/\nSucuri is linked on the Wordpress forums frequently and they have a plugin for scanning as well, but once again... haven't personally used it. But I'm a hands-on kind of person.\n\n\",Squish,https://wordpress.stackexchange.com/users/28821,http://wordpress.stackexchange.com/questions/134825/tips-for-finding-spam-links-injected-into-the-content,TECHNOLOGY,wordpress.stackexchange.com,0.8333333333333334,0.5,0.0,1.0,0.5,1.0,0.5,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.5,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.5,1.0,1.0,0.5,0.0,0.8333333333333334,1.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,0.8333333333333334,0.9,0.0,1.0,0.5,0.8333333333333334\n50,Photo icons have generic picture only,\"When going to a JPG photo folder OS C drive and opening it to view photos in an icon mode the icons only show a generic picture. If I click on the icon then the actual photo comes up. It seems like this problem just started happening. In the past I would open a folder and view icons and the photos were all there to view at once. I don't believe I made any intentinal changes. Thanks for the help. \n\",Bob,https://superuser.com/users/323210,\"I had this problem with my new installation of Windows 8.1.\n\nAfter I had installed most of the regular Windows applications I was using in Windows 7, I started on a getting-acquainted tour of the new OS and its \"\"ModernUI\"\"apps.\n\nThe generic file type icons displayed in the Photos app really puzzled me, but a lot of Internet searching finally led to the solution: any installation of a recent version of the open source office suite \"\"LibreOffice\"\" changes the Windows registry of common graphics file types in an undesirable way, so that they are treated as a document rather than a picture.\n\nThere is a very long thread about the problems and solutions at http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows8_1-pictures/windows-81-photos-app-does-not-show-any-photos/5b1740bc-d87d-4d07-afe5-c1a60cdecd55?page=6&msgId=9cdf0542-aab0-4a0b-85aa-e9f6d40b64fc\n\nThe simplest solution presented was a registry file which has to be reapplied every time LibreOffice is upgraded. The file must contain the following text and be named with a .reg suffix, then double click on it to load it into the registry. You may have to log out and back in, or even restart the computer--I can't remember which I did to get it to work.\n\nWindows Registry Editor Version 5.00\n\n[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\\SOFTWARE\\Microsoft\\Windows\\CurrentVersion\\Explorer\\KindMap]\n\"\".wpg\"\"=\"\"picture\"\"\n\"\".dxf\"\"=\"\"picture\"\"\n\"\".emf\"\"=\"\"picture\"\"\n\"\".eps\"\"=\"\"picture\"\"\n\"\".met\"\"=\"\"picture\"\"\n\"\".pct\"\"=\"\"picture\"\"\n\"\".wmf\"\"=\"\"picture\"\"\n\"\".bmp\"\"=\"\"picture\"\"\n\"\".cdr\"\"=\"\"picture\"\"\n\"\".cmx\"\"=\"\"picture\"\"\n\"\".gif\"\"=\"\"picture\"\"\n\"\".jpg\"\"=\"\"picture\"\"\n\"\".jpeg\"\"=\"\"picture\"\"\n\"\".jpe\"\"=\"\"picture\"\"\n\"\".pbm\"\"=\"\"picture\"\"\n\"\".pcx\"\"=\"\"picture\"\"\n\"\".pgm\"\"=\"\"picture\"\"\n\"\".png\"\"=\"\"picture\"\"\n\"\".ppm\"\"=\"\"picture\"\"\n\"\".psd\"\"=\"\"picture\"\"\n\"\".ras\"\"=\"\"picture\"\"\n\"\".svg\"\"=\"\"picture\"\"\n\"\".tga\"\"=\"\"picture\"\"\n\"\".tif\"\"=\"\"picture\"\"\n\"\".tiff\"\"=\"\"picture\"\"\n\"\".xbm\"\"=\"\"picture\"\"\n\"\".xpm\"\"=\"\"picture\"\"\n\"\".pcd\"\"=\"\"picture\"\"\n\n\nI hope this helps, but I am not (yet) sufficiently familiar with Windows internals to explain the problem and the solution presented here.\n\",Insert Real Name,https://superuser.com/users/12204,http://superuser.com/questions/754061,TECHNOLOGY,superuser.com,1.0,0.5555555555555556,0.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,0.3333333333333333,0.7777777777777778,0.5555555555555556,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.8888888888888888,0.7777777777777778,0.5555555555555556,0.8888888888888888,0.8888888888888888,0.8,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.7777777777777778\n51,More than 2 resistors in parallel,\"Most people know the formula for the total resistance of parallel resistors:\n\n\\$ \\dfrac{1}{R_t} = \\dfrac{1}{R_1} + \\dfrac{1}{R_2} + {}...{} + \\dfrac{1}{R_n} \\$\n\nIf there are only 2 resistors, that can be easily rearranged to solve for Rt:\n\n\\$ {R_t} = \\dfrac{(R_1 \\cdot R_2)}{(R_1 + R_2)} \\$\n\nIs there a safe way to do that for n resistors?\n\",Bluefire,https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/15851,\"This is not an answer to your question but rather, additional information that may (or may not) be helpful in thinking about this kind of problem.\n\nWhen I teach introductory circuit classes, I always emphasize the notion of duality which, when mastered, can give you deep insight into many fundamental \"\"rules\"\" of circuit analysis.\n\nThe idea is that if you know the answer for, say, a series circuit, you can take the dual of the result and get a correct answer for a seemingly very different problem.\n\nSo, here is short list of circuit duals:\n\n\n Voltage - Current\n \n Resistance - Conductance\n \n Inductance - Capacitance\n \n Impedance - Admittance\n \n Series - Parallel\n \n Thevenin - Norton\n\n\nThere are others but these will do most of the time.\n\nOhm's law is usually written as:\n\n\\$V = I R \\$\n\nTo take the dual, replace all the variables in the above equation with their duals:\n\nThe dual of Ohm's Law:\n\n\\$I = VG \\$\n\nwhere \\$G = \\dfrac{1}{R} \\$\n\nRecall that for resistors in series, resistances add, so that the equivalent resistance is just the sum.\n\nConsider the dual of this, conductances in parallel.\n\nFrom the principle of duality, parallel conductances add just as series resistances. So, if you have 3 conductances in parallel, the equivalent conductance is:\n\n\\$G_{eq} = G_1 + G_2 + G_3 \\$\n\nNow, convert back to resistance:\n\n\\$R_{eq} = \\dfrac{1}{G_{eq}} = \\dfrac{1}{G_1 + G_2 + G_3} = \\dfrac{1}{\\frac{1}{R_1}+\\frac{1}{R_2} +\\frac{1}{R_3}}\\$\n\nIn other words, the equivalent resistance of \\$n\\$ parallel resistors is the reciprocal of the sum of the reciprocals.\n\nThis is the origin of your first formula.\n\",Alfred Centauri,https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/10475,http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/47185/more-than-2-resistors-in-parallel,TECHNOLOGY,electronics.stackexchange.com,0.6666666666666666,0.3333333333333333,0.0,1.0,1.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.3333333333333333,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.8888888888888888,1.0,0.8333333333333334,1.0,0.8333333333333334,0.7,0.3333333333333333,0.3333333333333333,1.0,1.0\n52,C# Test Assembly,\"I am new to C# and am having a particularly difficult time figuring out how test assemblies work. This is my Solution directory (with a single project MyProject inside of it):\n\nMySolution/MySolutionFile.sln -- My Solution File\nMySolution/packages -- My Packages Directory\nMySolution/MyProject/Properties -- My Project Properties\n\nMySolution/MyProject/src -- My Source Code\n /src/MyClass1.cs\n /src/MyClass2.cs\n\nMySolution/MyProject/test -- My NUnit Tests\n /test/MyClass1Test.cs\n /test/MyClass2Test.cs\n\nMySolution/MyProject/TheMainClass.cs\n\n\nNow I can run all the tests in the test folder from visual studio. However I want to run the tests from a CI system like TeamCity, in which case I need an assembly path. How do I generate just the test folder into an assembly to be run.\n\nDo I need to add to the main class a method that runs each test in the MySolution/test folder?\n\",Anil Vaitla,https://stackoverflow.com/users/815977,\"I think you need to read about projects and solutions: http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/ee817674.aspx\n\nAnd after that it all becomes more clear: Have one solution, inside of that solution create a project for your application and a project for your unit-tests. In test-project add reference to the testing framework of your choice and a reference to your application-project. \n\nThis way your application does not know about your tests and compiled into one assembly. At the same time your tests depend on your application, but compiled into another assembly, which can be used by your test-runner GUI/CI or whatever else you use.\n\nAnd to answer your next question, for test-project you need to choose project type of \"\"Library\"\" (console application will work as well if you like)\n\",trailmax,https://stackoverflow.com/users/809357,http://stackoverflow.com/questions/12379599/c-sharp-test-assembly,STACKOVERFLOW,stackoverflow.com,1.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,1.0,1.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,1.0,1.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.6666666666666666,0.6666666666666666,0.6666666666666666,1.0,0.8,1.0,0.0,1.0,1.0\n54,Is there a general term for a single note or a chord?,\"Take a passage like this:\n\n\n\nFill in the blank: Each of these boxes denote a ______\n\nIs there a single general term for these that's better than note or chord? Or maybe there's a term for \"\"anything that has a duration\"\" that also encompasses rests? It seems like enough of a fundamental concept that it should have a name.\n\",Trillian,https://music.stackexchange.com/users/16,\"For formal, technical purposes (e.g. when discussing musical audiation and other aspects of musical cognition) the terms \"\"acoustic event\"\" or \"\"notated event\"\" or \"\"vertical event\"\" is pretty much standard terminology within psychology of music for referring broadly to any individual single tone or simultaneosly experienced combination of tones (i.e. an individual chord) within a passage or composition. An acoustic event can also include a silence. Really useful all-inclusive terms, (though not yet in musicians' common parlance)!\n\nSo, I'd use the term \"\"notated event\"\" (or the more generalized \"\"vertical event\"\") to fill in the blank in the OP's question.\n\",RichT,https://music.stackexchange.com/users/13338,http://music.stackexchange.com/questions/17282/is-there-a-general-term-for-a-single-note-or-a-chord,LIFE_ARTS,music.stackexchange.com,0.8888888888888888,0.8888888888888888,0.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.3333333333333333,0.7777777777777778,0.7777777777777778,0.0,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,1.0,1.0,0.7777777777777778,0.8888888888888888,1.0,0.9333333333333332,0.0,0.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0\n55,How can I login to a website from terminal?,\"As a student of computer science, I am now learning to work with command line.\nI need to use brute force to login to a website, knowing the username and that the password is an integer in a certain range. This is what I have so far but it doesn't seem to work. \n\n for i in {2000..3000}; do curl http://admin:$i@mywebsite.com/link; done\n\n\nHow can I proceed?\n\",Nat,https://unix.stackexchange.com/users/103602,\"What your routine is lacking is some way to exit once the correct i is found.\nFor that you can look at the exit code given back from curl:\n\nfor i in {2000..3000}\ndo \n curl http://admin:$i@mywebsite.com/link\n if [ \"\"$?\"\" -eq 0 ]; then\n echo Found \"\"$i\"\"\n break\n fi\ndone\n\n\nThe exit value of curl is 0 when everything is correct and can be checked directly after the program stops by inspecting the special variable $?.\nUse man curl and search for EXIT CODE to see all the different things curl can tell you with its exit code.\n\",Anthon,https://unix.stackexchange.com/users/33055,http://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/203827/how-can-i-login-to-a-website-from-terminal,TECHNOLOGY,unix.stackexchange.com,1.0,0.5555555555555556,0.0,0.5,1.0,1.0,0.3333333333333333,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.0,0.8888888888888888,1.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,1.0,1.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.6666666666666666,0.8888888888888888\n56,Export error with addon,\"Im trying to export a model for the Euro Truck Simulator 2 game with the Blender2SCS addon and I get the following error, any help?\n\nTraceback (most recent call last):\n File \"\"C:\\Program Files\\Blender Foundation\\Blender\\2.72\\scripts\\addons\\io_scene\n_scs\\__init__.py\"\", line 1951, in execute\n error = export_scs.save(filepath, origin_path, root_object, self.copy_textur\nes, int(self.pmg_version))\n File \"\"C:\\Program Files\\Blender Foundation\\Blender\\2.72\\scripts\\addons\\io_scene\n_scs\\export_scs.py\"\", line 27, in save\n status, ob = export_pmd.save(exportpath, originpath, root_ob, copy_textures)\n\n File \"\"C:\\Program Files\\Blender Foundation\\Blender\\2.72\\scripts\\addons\\io_scene\n_scs\\export_pmd.py\"\", line 305, in save\n pmd.write(f, exportpath, originpath, copy_tex)\n File \"\"C:\\Program Files\\Blender Foundation\\Blender\\2.72\\scripts\\addons\\io_scene\n_scs\\export_pmd.py\"\", line 267, in write\n ret_ob = exp_mat.write(copy_tex)\n File \"\"C:\\Program Files\\Blender Foundation\\Blender\\2.72\\scripts\\addons\\io_scene\n_scs\\export_mat.py\"\", line 91, in write\n for option in self.__options.keys():\nAttributeError: 'str' object has no attribute 'keys'\n\nlocation: <unknown location>:-1\n\nlocation: <unknown location>:-1\n\n\",Pumizo,https://blender.stackexchange.com/users/6311,\"The addon seems to be broken due to api changes in Blender, either use the addons bug tracker or try an older version of Blender that is compatible. According to the video tutorials version 2.66 was used. \n\",stacker,https://blender.stackexchange.com/users/29,http://blender.stackexchange.com/questions/23314/export-error-with-addon,TECHNOLOGY,blender.stackexchange.com,0.8888888888888888,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,1.0,0.5555555555555556,0.5555555555555556,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.3333333333333333,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.5555555555555556,1.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,1.0,0.8666666666666666,0.6666666666666666,0.3333333333333333,0.3333333333333333,0.8888888888888888\n58,Java final variables changes at the execution time,\"I don't know the reason fo that. Maybe you could help me\n\nSo code here creating a frame with 8 sliders.\n\npublic class MyFrame extends JFrame {\n\n\nImagePanel imagePanel;\nfinal int Minimum = 0;\nfinal int Maximum = 10;\nfinal int NumberOfSpheres = 8;\nfinal int NumberOfScales = 10;\nMyRandomAccessFile file;\n\nfinal String[] s = {\"\"Друзья и Окружение\"\",\n \"\"Отношения\"\", \"\"Карьера и Бизнес\"\",\n \"\"Финансы\"\", \"\"Духовность и Творчество\"\",\n \"\"Личностный Рост\"\", \"\"Яркость Жизни\"\", \"\"Здоровье и Спорт\"\"};\n\nprivate final Color[] colors = {Color.RED, Color.ORANGE, Color.YELLOW, Color.GREEN, Color.BLUE, Color.PINK, Color.MAGENTA, Color.DARK_GRAY};\n\nprivate final int[] array = {1, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0};\n\npublic MyFrame () {\n\n setTitle(\"\"Wheel Of Life\"\");\n\n MySlider[] sliders = new MySlider[NumberOfSpheres];\n JButton saveButton = new JButton(\"\"Save\"\");\n MyActionListener listener1 = new MyActionListener();\n saveButton.addActionListener(listener1);\n\n file = new MyRandomAccessFile();\n\n //String s3 = \"\"0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0\"\";\n //array = stringToIntArray(s3);\n array[1] = 4;\n\n JLabel[] labels = new JLabel[NumberOfSpheres];\n imagePanel = new ImagePanel(colors, array);\n System.out.println(array[1]);\n JPanel mainPanel = new JPanel();\n JPanel[] sliderPanels = new JPanel[NumberOfSpheres];\n JPanel mainSliderPanel = new JPanel(new GridLayout(4, 2, 20, 20));\n MyChangeListener listener = new MyChangeListener();\n\n for (int i = 0; i < NumberOfSpheres; i++) {\n sliders[i] = new MySlider(s[i]);\n sliders[i].addChangeListener(listener);\n labels[i] = new JLabel(s[i]);\n labels[i].setForeground(colors[i]);\n labels[i].setFont(new Font(\"\"Droid Sans\"\", Font.BOLD, 20));\n sliderPanels[i] = new JPanel();\n sliders[i].setMinimum(Minimum);\n sliders[i].setMaximum(Maximum);\n System.out.print(array[i]);\n sliders[i].setValue(4);\n sliders[i].setMajorTickSpacing(1);\n sliders[i].setMinorTickSpacing((int) 0.1);\n sliders[i].setPaintLabels(true);\n sliders[i].setPaintTicks(true);\n sliderPanels[i].setLayout(new GridLayout(2, 1, 5, 5));\n sliderPanels[i].add(sliders[i]);\n sliderPanels[i].add(labels[i]);\n mainSliderPanel.add(sliderPanels[i]);\n\n }\n\n mainPanel.setLayout(new BorderLayout());\n mainPanel.add(imagePanel, BorderLayout.CENTER);\n mainPanel.add(mainSliderPanel, BorderLayout.EAST);\n mainPanel.add(saveButton, BorderLayout.SOUTH);\n\n add(mainPanel);\n}\n\n\nAnd the output is this\n\n4\n99999999\n\nHow can final variable change its value at the execution time, what the hell???\nActual value of variable is depend on value that I writing at sliders[i].setValue(4); But I don't know how exactly...\n\nAnd I tried to set a watchpoint for this variable... Doesn't working. One time its zero and next time program stop in this for loop value is 9, 4 or whatever...\n\",user1685095,https://stackoverflow.com/users/1685095,\"Setting final to array does not mean that u cant add or change element value, but it means now you can assign another array reference to this variable. But you can add , update or remove the elements in that array\n\",zaffargachal,https://stackoverflow.com/users/1227732,http://stackoverflow.com/questions/12806590/java-final-variables-changes-at-the-execution-time,STACKOVERFLOW,stackoverflow.com,0.6666666666666666,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,0.5,0.3333333333333333,1.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.8333333333333334,0.6666666666666666,0.8333333333333334,1.0,0.8,0.6666666666666666,0.0,1.0,0.8333333333333334\n59,Difference between busses,\"I think I am confusing the difference between some of the of busses, such as IDE, SATA, USB, and PCI. What is the relationship between all four, how are they connected to each other? From what I read it seems like PCI connects them together as well as to the CPU, but it's not clear. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am cross referencing this post with another I made about the Linux commands to browse them. http://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/27414/ide-and-pci-bus-commands\n\",rubixibuc,https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/7163,\"The interrelationship of the different busses is roughly as follows:\n\n / SATA\nCPU => Northbridge => PCI Bus => Southbridge => IDE\n \\ USB\n\n\nWhere the Northbridge and Southbridge are names given to the two main controller chips inside a PC.\n\nIDE and SATA both perform the same job but through different physical media - they are for attaching hard drives etc.\n\nIDE is \"\"Integrated Device Electronics\"\" - also known as \"\"ATA\"\" or \"\"ATAPI\"\" (ATA Peripheral Interface).\n\nSATA is \"\"Serial ATA\"\" - the same ATA protocol but serial instead of parallel.\n\nUSB is a serial communications bus which can communicate with any number of devices, not just hard drives and other storage devices. It speaks a completely different protocol to the ATA family.\n\nPCI (and the derivatives PCIe, etc) are much closer to the CPU and generally provides much more direct access to the CPU.\n\nEdit:\n\nYou can see how everything is connected together in Windows through the Device Manager set to View Devices by Connection:\n\n\n\",Majenko,https://electronics.stackexchange.com/users/4245,http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/24077/difference-between-busses,SCIENCE,electronics.stackexchange.com,1.0,0.5555555555555556,0.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.4444444444444444,0.4444444444444444,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.8888888888888888,1.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,1.0,1.0,0.0,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.8888888888888888\n60,Flushing coolant after driving only with water in,\"If I drive my truck for 30 min with just water in my system, would it be equivalent to just flushing it stationary (the proper way to flush it)? IOW, if I just drive around with a clean water refill in the coolant system instead of keeping the truck in place and then draining, would it be an okay way to flush?\n\",amphibient,https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/users/2618,\"It would make no difference if you are standing still or driving the vehicle. You want to ensure you have the heater wide open when you do it to ensure you are getting the old fluid from the heater core as well as the engine. Driving the vehicle around will probably allow the process to happen a little faster, as you engine will get up to operating temperature faster. The real thing you are trying to accomplish is to get the thermostat open to allow everything to circulate.\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/users/4152,http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/17345/flushing-coolant-after-driving-only-with-water-in,CULTURE,mechanics.stackexchange.com,0.8888888888888888,0.5555555555555556,0.0,1.0,0.3333333333333333,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.7777777777777778,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,1.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,1.0,0.8666666666666666,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.8888888888888888\n61,How does critical strike chance stack?,\"I was wondering how critical strike chance stacks? Say I buy a Phanton Dancer with its 30% crit chance. Now if I buy another Phanton Dancer, what is my critical chance?\n\",BubBidderskins,https://gaming.stackexchange.com/users/22482,\"they stack additively, so just add up the crit chance. 1 PD will increase your total crit chance by +30%. The 2nd PD will increase your total crit chance by +30%, so +60% crit chance total from 2 PD's.\n\",Masck,https://gaming.stackexchange.com/users/23074,http://gaming.stackexchange.com/questions/60921/how-does-critical-strike-chance-stack,CULTURE,gaming.stackexchange.com,0.7777777777777778,0.5555555555555556,0.0,1.0,1.0,1.0,0.7777777777777778,0.3333333333333333,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.6666666666666666,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.7777777777777778,1.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,1.0,1.0,0.3333333333333333,0.3333333333333333,0.6666666666666666,0.8888888888888888\n63,Directory.GetFiles string gives an error,\"I am creating a website using asp.net and c#\nI need to access all files one by one in a directory. So I wrote the following code.\n\n string[] ssImgs = Directory.GetFiles(\"\"images/movies\"\");\n Label1.Text = ssImgs[0];\n Label2.Text = ssImgs[1];\n\n\nBut it gives an error. What is the correct way to do this? Thanks in advance.\n\",LIH,https://stackoverflow.com/users/2436770,\"There are two potential issues here.\n\n\nIf you doing have using System.IO; in your file, the Directory class will not be found by the compiler.\nThe way you're specifying your path (\"\"images/movies\"\") will be relative to the current working directory, which is likely not the proper directory. You should use Server.MapPath or the Path class to build a full path to the proper folder, so you can specify the correct folder with a full, absolute path.\n\n\",Reed Copsey,https://stackoverflow.com/users/65358,http://stackoverflow.com/questions/18471710/directory-getfiles-string-gives-an-error,STACKOVERFLOW,stackoverflow.com,0.8888888888888888,0.3333333333333333,0.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,0.4444444444444444,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.7777777777777778,1.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,1.0,0.9,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0\n64,Discontinuity at the edge of Chebychev window,\"I am using Chebychev window for its narrow main lobe. The problem of chebychev window is that it has discontinuities at the edge, and it seems that Taylor window solves this issue. \n\nMore detail:\nhttp://de.mathworks.com/help/signal/ref/taylorwin.html\nhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Window_function#Dolph.E2.80.93Chebyshev_window\n\nI've searched around but I can't find any information on how to implement a Taylor window. Any information on taylor window or suggestions on fixing this issue of edge discontinuities would be very appreciated.\n\",Thinium,https://dsp.stackexchange.com/users/16093,\"A little Googling came up with this reference, which indicates that the impulse response for a Taylor window is:\n\n$$\nh[n] = 1 + 2 \\sum_{m=1}^{\\tilde{n}-1} F_m \\cos\\left(\\frac{2\\pi m}{N} \\left(n-\\frac{N}{2}+\\frac{1}{2}\\right)\\right)\n$$\n\n$\\tilde{n}$ is a parameter for controlling how many equal-height sidelobes there are in the window. $F_m$ is a parameter that is related to the maximum sidelobe height; the references given in Matt L's answer give more detail on how it is calculated.\n\",Jason R,https://dsp.stackexchange.com/users/90,http://dsp.stackexchange.com/questions/23890/discontinuity-at-the-edge-of-chebychev-window,TECHNOLOGY,dsp.stackexchange.com,0.6666666666666666,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.5,1.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.3333333333333333,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.7777777777777778,1.0,0.5555555555555556,1.0,0.8888888888888888,0.7333333333333333,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0\n65,Silverlight: Returning value from synchronous method using Rx,\"I am writing a simple Silverlight application and WCF Service.\nI want to create a synchronous method that return a value.\nThe method itself, call an asynchronous method from WCF Services. After I call asynchronous method, I want to get it value, and return to sender.\nI hear that Rx can solve this kind of problem.\n\nThis is my code :\n\n private void btnCreate_Click(object sender, RoutedEventArgs e)\n {\n string myResult = getMyBook(txtBookName.Text);\n MessageBox.Show(\"\"Result\\n\"\" + myResult);\n // myResult will be use for another purpose here..\n }\n\n // I want this method can be called anywhere, as long as the caller still in the same namespace.\n public string getMyBook(string bookName)\n {\n Servo.ServoClient svc = new ServoClient();\n string returnValue = \"\"\"\";\n\n var o = Observable.FromEventPattern<GetBookCompletedEventArgs>(svc, \"\"GetBookCompleted\"\");\n o.Subscribe(\n b => returnValue = b.EventArgs.Result\n );\n\n svc.GetBookAsync(bookName);\n return returnValue;\n }\n\n\nWhen I click btnCreate, myResult variable still empty. Is that something wrong with my code? Or maybe I am just don't understand with Rx concept? I am new to Rx.\n\nMy goal is : I need to get the result (myResult variable) from asynchronous method, and then used in later code.\n\",Trom,https://stackoverflow.com/users/1219992,\"Remember that GetBookAsync returns immediately, and will return the value stored in returnvalue. When the data arrives returnvalue will be out of scope, and by then btnCreate will have finished.\n\nU could use await on the GetBookAsync, so that it will wait for the data to arrive before continuing. Don't forget that would mean u also need the async on the method.\n\nNot a great example or use of either RX or await, but trying is how we learn!\n\",codeputer,https://stackoverflow.com/users/176338,http://stackoverflow.com/questions/15583781/silverlight-returning-value-from-synchronous-method-using-rx,STACKOVERFLOW,stackoverflow.com,0.8888888888888888,0.3333333333333333,0.0,1.0,0.3333333333333333,1.0,0.5555555555555556,0.3333333333333333,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.4444444444444444,1.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,1.0,0.8666666666666666,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.3333333333333333,1.0\n68,How to grep words in a file?,\"\n Possible Duplicate:\n Regex for “or” in grep \n\n\n\n\nHow can I grep for lines with either 'disable' or 'enable' in my file?\n\nI tried \n $ grep \"\"disable|enable\"\" fail.log \n\nbut that shows up nothing.\n\",michael,https://superuser.com/users/31500,\"Try \"\"grep \"\"disable\\|enable\"\" fail.log\n\nThe backslash turns the | into the \"\"or\"\" metacharacter, otherwise you are grepping for the literal 'disable|enable\"\"\n\",bdk,https://superuser.com/users/9262,http://superuser.com/questions/436426,TECHNOLOGY,superuser.com,0.8888888888888888,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.3333333333333333,1.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.4444444444444444,0.0,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.7777777777777778,0.8888888888888888,0.6666666666666666,1.0,1.0,0.8666666666666666,1.0,0.3333333333333333,1.0,0.8888888888888888\n71,Get term weight in node object for ordering with EntityFieldQuery,\"Is it posiible to expose taxonomy term weight in node object ?\n\nI need to sort nodes using EntityFieldQuery by term reference field, but weight is not exposed to node object so i can say for example \n\n->fieldOrderBy('field_custom_terms', 'weight', 'ASC');\n\n\nand sort nodes by weight of terms.\n\",NenadP,https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/5970,\"No, this is not possible. You can only order on actual field values, the term weight would require a JOIN to a non-field table and EFQ is not capable of doing that.\n\nYou will have to create a manual SQL query to do this. Note that Drupal by default maintains the node <-> term associations in the taxonomy_index table, that one is easier and more reliable to query than a field data table.\n\",Berdir,https://drupal.stackexchange.com/users/31,http://drupal.stackexchange.com/questions/40815/get-term-weight-in-node-object-for-ordering-with-entityfieldquery,TECHNOLOGY,drupal.stackexchange.com,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.0,1.0,1.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.6666666666666666,1.0,0.3333333333333333,1.0,1.0,0.4,1.0,0.0,1.0,1.0\n72,Why is my CV 145% complete?,\"On Careers, when filling out my CV, it is listed as being 145% complete. Could someone tell me why this is?\n\",Matthew Jones,https://meta.stackexchange.com/users/133611,\"145% means that you're 45% better than the average programmer. Congratulations.\n\",Lance Roberts,https://meta.stackexchange.com/users/13295,http://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/24964/why-is-my-cv-145-complete,TECHNOLOGY,meta.stackexchange.com,1.0,0.5555555555555556,0.0,1.0,1.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,1.0,0.3333333333333333,0.3333333333333333,0.3333333333333333,0.4444444444444444,0.2,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.7777777777777778\n74,Symfony 2 and Twig custom error page,\"I give up.\n\nThe problem is with the overrided Twig 404 template. It is overrided in a default way by creating an error404.html.twig under the /app/Resources/TwigBundle/views directory.\n\nThe template itself does not contain any irregular or complex logic: just a layout with some translated text (|trans) and a menu with several links.\n\nThe problem is, that I can't get app.user object (returned as NULL) or current app.request.locale (always returned as default locale) inside this template.\n\nI have even tried to override the twig exception controller and dump a current locale (Request::getLocale()) or get user - the results are the same - default locale and NULL for user.\n\nThen I decided to dig deeper and found a dozens of listeners (locale listeners, exception liteners, ...) and tried to debug/fix/test there, but I didn't proceed any further.\n\nBy the way, I have overrided the 500 error page too, and everything is fine there. Well I guess that when 500 error (exception) is thrown, the symfony has already set up user/locale/etc, because it already has got to the target (controller/action) and other listeners been already executed. But 404 error (NotFoundHttpException) is being thrown BEFORE Symfony targets the action...\n\nSome words about project: symfony 2.4.8, doctrine, Gedmo extensions/stof bundle, JMS i18n routing bundle.\n\nSymfony version: v2.4.8\nJMS I18n Routing bundle: 1.1.1\n\nAppreciate your help.\n\",Dmitry,https://stackoverflow.com/users/629899,\"That's the way I do it (at least for 404 templates):\n\nIn app/config/routing.yml append:\n\n#always in last position\n#------------>\nnonexistent_route:\n path: /{url}\n defaults: { _controller: ACMEDemoBundle:Default:wrongRoute}\n requirements:\n url: \"\".+\"\" \n#<-----------\n\n\nThe Controller:\n\nnamespace ACME\\DemoBundle\\Controller;\n\nuse Symfony\\Bundle\\FrameworkBundle\\Controller\\Controller;\nuse Symfony\\Component\\HttpKernel\\Exception\\NotFoundHttpException;\n\nclass DefaultController extends Controller\n{\n ...\n\n public function wrongRouteAction($url)\n {\n $user = $this->get('security.context')->getToken()->getUser();\n\n return $this->render('TwigBundle:Exception:error404.html.twig', array(\"\"user\"\" => $user, \"\"url\"\" => $url));\n\n }\n}\n\n\nAnd in your twig template app/Resources/TwigBundle/views/Exception/error404.html.twig you can access {{ user }}\n\",devilcius,https://stackoverflow.com/users/779388,http://stackoverflow.com/questions/27276778/symfony-2-and-twig-custom-error-page,STACKOVERFLOW,stackoverflow.com,0.8888888888888888,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.5,1.0,1.0,0.3333333333333333,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.6666666666666666,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.8888888888888888,0.8888888888888888,0.6666666666666666,1.0,1.0,0.9333333333333332,1.0,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.8888888888888888\n75,Thunderbird 2.0: Inbox size is 4GB on disk: how do I reduce it?,\"Mozilla Thunderbird 2.0: I have set Thunderbird never to delete a message that is on disk...Thus, after four short years, I have a 4GB Inbox file. Thunderbird needs about 10 minutes to read it, and even then I can't compact it. Anyone have some suggestions?\n\",Eric,https://superuser.com/users/15673,\"There is definitely a 4GB limit on Windows due to Windows limitations which means you will have problem with individual Thunderbird mail folders that are larger than 4GB.\n\nAnd I thought the 4GB limit existed on Mac and Linux as well (so I am curious as to how emgee can have a Thunderbird folder that's 7GB! emgee: perhaps you are referring to a Unified Folder being 7GB but your individual folders are < 4GB?)\n\nNick's suggestion (i.e. move to new, multiple Thunderbird folders each of which is <4GB. please clarify emgee) should work. More info with a complete procedure (change \"\"Sent\"\" to \"\"Inbox\"\"):\nhttp://getsatisfaction.com/mozilla_messaging/topics/version_3_1_2_still_has_the_missing_sent_message_bug#reply_3235232\n\",Roland Tanglao,https://superuser.com/users/9764,http://superuser.com/questions/198503,TECHNOLOGY,superuser.com,0.7777777777777778,0.7777777777777778,0.3333333333333333,0.6666666666666666,1.0,0.3333333333333333,0.6666666666666666,0.4444444444444444,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.3333333333333333,0.0,0.0,1.0,1.0,0.7777777777777778,1.0,1.0,0.8666666666666666,0.6666666666666666,0.3333333333333333,0.6666666666666666,1.0\n" }, { "path": "input/qa_stackexchange_cleaned.csv", "content": "id,host,question_username,question_score,question_views,question_favs,answers_count,answers_max_score,answers_mean_score,question_title,question_body,answer_username,answer,answer_score,is_answer_accepted\n1,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Adam Davis,3.767809650974757,3.912607320579891,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.4319460411998994,How to obtain high resolution prints in a shorter period of time?,\"When I've printed an object I've had to choose between high resolution and quick prints. What techniques or technologies can I use or deploy to speed up my high resolution prints?\n\",hroncok,\"You could experiment with slicing. For example, you might not need high resolution all over the object, but you can speed up some straight parts by using greater layer high there. See a part of Slic3r manual about such thing.\n\nIt is also possible to print thicker infill every Nth layer, see Infill optimization in Slic3r.\n\nOther slicers might have those features as well.\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n1,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Adam Davis,3.767809650974757,3.912607320579891,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.4319460411998994,How to obtain high resolution prints in a shorter period of time?,\"When I've printed an object I've had to choose between high resolution and quick prints. What techniques or technologies can I use or deploy to speed up my high resolution prints?\n\",plaintoothpaste,\"For FDM technologies in general with a single extruder, slicing modifications is your only options. However there will be a trade off between quality and speed. \nFor ABS, changing to a machine with a enclosed build (such as a zortrax) chamber may help and a heated build chamber (Stratasys machine) will help the quality and reliability but not the print speed directly. As ABS has a tendency to warp vase mode is not the best idea either.\n\nIf you only need high resolution and not strength then reducing the infill percentage or even using vase mode will speed up the print. Also changing to a material that you can print at higher speeds like PLA will magnify any of the previous settings.\n\nIf you have two extruders then changing to a wider nozzle and using that for infill may speed up the print, heating and cooling time during extruder changeover may actually make it slower.\n\nFor other technologies there are lots of options digital light projection (DLP) and stereolithography (SLA) both provide significantly higher resolution then FDM, with DLP being the faster of the two, comparison. Take the review with a grain of salt though as the technologies are far from standardised, for example out DLP at work offers far higher resolution and speed then our SLA which is quite old.\n\nSintering or melting technologies can scan the outline every layer then perform a infill of multiple layers at once to speed up the process. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Adam Davis,4.541637296610063,3.9215535641013384,2.7799718631987322,4.670422881206417,3.320478682445624,3.4319460411998994,Are there any metals that exhibit a large glass state?,\"Plastic is used in 3D FDM/FFF printing partly because it had a wide temperature range for its glass state - where it can be flowed with some force, but won't flow due only to gravity.\n\nMost metals have a very narrow, or non-existant, glass state. They transition from solid to liquid with almost no flowable-but-not-liquid state.\n\nAre there any metals or alloys that display a glass transition state?\n\",TextGeek,\"I\"\"m no expert on this, but the article at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amorphous_metal may be relevant for you.\n\nThere are some special alloys, such as gold/silicon and various titanium-based ones, that become \"\"bulk metal glasses\"\" if cooled extremely quickly (for example, by sputtering onto a spinning cold surface). The speed of cooling prevents crystal formation. Early BMGs were quite strong but brittle; improvements have reduced brittleness and required cooling speed.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n4,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Adam Davis,4.541637296610063,3.9215535641013384,2.7799718631987322,4.670422881206417,3.320478682445624,3.4319460411998994,Are there any metals that exhibit a large glass state?,\"Plastic is used in 3D FDM/FFF printing partly because it had a wide temperature range for its glass state - where it can be flowed with some force, but won't flow due only to gravity.\n\nMost metals have a very narrow, or non-existant, glass state. They transition from solid to liquid with almost no flowable-but-not-liquid state.\n\nAre there any metals or alloys that display a glass transition state?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"A few things are required for effective extrusion-style 3d printing materials:\n\n\nIt must stay where placed by the nozzle long enough to harden (or, alternately for pastes and such, have a shear-thinning or thixotropic viscous profile so it will not flow under its own weight). \nIf using a filament extruder, it must have a wide range of viscosity that varies gradually over a considerable temperature range. This is necessary to develop the proper \"\"cap zone\"\" semi-melt shearing behavior that allows the incoming filament to act like a piston and generate pressure upstream of the nozzle. Pellet extruders have a similar requirement but related to screw/wall shearing rather than filament/wall shearing. If using neither filament nor pellets, such as clay printers, the material must be pumpable by a positive-displacement pump. (It is possible to pump molten metal, but the cost is quite high.)\nIt must form some kind of bond with previously-deposited solid material, without needing to be in a state that will rapidly flow and lose shape.\nIt must have some combination of low shrinkage, the ability to creep at the printer's ambient temp, and/or low stiffness that allows consecutive layers to be stacked without an unacceptable amount of warping. \n\n\nLiquid metals tend to have a conflict between \"\"Staying where you put it\"\" and \"\"bonding with the previous layer.\"\" In order for deposited metal to fully bond, the interface material needs to reach the melting point so a true fusion weld occurs. And in order to supply enough heat to remelt the interface without an additional heat source like an arc, the deposited molten metal needs to be very hot. So it will tend to run while it cools. High density and high heat capacity makes it run fast and cool slowly. \n\nPretty much every DIY metal 3d print (such as made by wire-feed MIG welders) ends up looking something like this:\n\n\nhttps://3dprint.com/29944/diy-metal-printing-garage/\n\nIn comparison, polymers have long molecular chains that allow them to \"\"diffusion weld\"\" and adhere WITHOUT fully remelting the interface. Molten liquid plastic will stick to solid plastic quite effectively. The interface only needs to get hot enough for appreciable diffusion to intertwine the molecular chains. This will occur between the glass point and melting point, without true fusion occurring. So you can print molten plastic at a temperature where it will stay in place long enough to harden, and still get good bonding.\n\nMetals also tend to be very stiff, which encourages warping. It is difficult to build a heated environment of sufficient temperature to properly stress-relieve the thermal contraction stress as the print progresses, whereas with plastic a heated build plate and warm enclosure can permit warping stresses to start relaxing as the print progresses. \n\nIt is possible to \"\"FDM-style\"\" 3d print filament/wire made of metal alloys that have a wide range between solidus and liquidus. It has been done using solder and similar alloys. However, between the warping stresses, poor layer bonding from inadequate interface re-melting, and use of soft low-melting alloys, the resulting printed parts will usually end up being weaker than if they had simply been printed in a strong plastic. For example, PEEK is nearly as strong as aluminum, and carbon fiber or fiberglass composite plastics can exceed metals on various performance metrics. So what's the point of printing with weak, brittle metal alloys?\n\nOver the years, lots of people have tried FDM-style metal printing, but no one has found it worthwhile to pursue in the long run. More typical DIY metal printing approaches like 3D MIG welding following by cleanup machining will produce better results.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n2,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,5.291027456384213,5.52632428328061,3.507933925167123,5.199501240805782,5.195138047661548,4.521992869097919,Is 3D printing safe for your health?,\"I would like to buy a 3D printer, but I'm concerned about the health risks that are associated with its operation. Some groups of scientists say it can be harmful for humans.\n\nWhat do I need to consider before buying a 3D printer if I care about my health? Are there any safe printers?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"There is very little information about safety available, as home 3D printers are relatively new. However, plastics such as ABS have a long history in making plastic products, and a study found that at traditional manufacturing methods (such as injection molding and hot wire cutting) do not release dangerous levels of carcinogens and/or respiratory sensitizers in to the air.\n\nOf course, 3D printers are not among the processes covered in the study. In home 3D printing circles, this study that looks at ultrafine particle (UFP) emissions, is often cited. It finds that printing ABS releases relatively high levels of UFP's and PLA releases significantly fewer (but still quite a large amount). However, it is unclear whether/how dangerous these UFP's are in the amounts emitted.\n\nIt is often suggested that PLA, partly because of the reduced UFP emissions is safer to print than ABS, partly because of its \"\"natural\"\" origins as it can be derived from materials such as cornstarch. I would caution against this line of reasoning since \"\"natural\"\" materials can still be poisonous (snake venom is natural, after all) and the cornstarch is heavily processed so it hardly resembles its original form. The lower UFP emissions may suggest it is safer, but the study is only quantitative, not qualitative.\n\nThat said, PLA does probably pose less of a risk (despite my earlier argumentation against \"\"natural\"\" materials, PLA does play quite nicely with the human body), but I contend the risk with ABS is not too large anyways, given that it has been safely used in factories for decades.\n\nAnother study is often miscited, supposedly saying that 3D printing ABS releases hydrogen cyanide. The study only looks at the thermal decomposition of ABS, which happens at significantly higher temperatures than are reached during printing (but a significantly malfunctioning printer might cause toxic gasses to be released, but I contend that at that point you should worry about your printer being on fire, rather than temporary exposure to some toxins).\n\nThere are no printers out there that are fundamentally safer than others. However, some printers have an enclosure (containing the fumes) and some even have a carbon filter and a fan for fume extraction. If you would like to err on the side of caution, this might be a good choice (but again, it is not clear if a carbon filter is totally effective).\n\nFinally, as printers are generally quite noisy it tends to be preferrable to keep your printer in a separate room from where you usually work. In this case, fume exposure (during the few minutes that you go to check on your print) is minimal, and the potential advantages of a \"\"safer\"\" printers or using \"\"safer\"\" materials diminish.\n\nIncidental exposure as a hobbyist is probably not a big deal; workers in factories are exposed to the fumes of melted plastic their entire lives and they don't seem to be dropping dead. On the other hand, if you are going to be printing structurally then it is probably preferable to move your printer to a separate room, if not because of health and safety because of the noise.\n\",4.452510692745205,2.0769199823829045\n2,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,5.291027456384213,5.52632428328061,3.507933925167123,5.199501240805782,5.195138047661548,4.521992869097919,Is 3D printing safe for your health?,\"I would like to buy a 3D printer, but I'm concerned about the health risks that are associated with its operation. Some groups of scientists say it can be harmful for humans.\n\nWhat do I need to consider before buying a 3D printer if I care about my health? Are there any safe printers?\n\",KobeJohn,\"I am going to address the air issue as it is currently unresolved. the third dimension offers a great answer for common safety issues.\n\nThe short answer is that based on our limited knowledge at this point, there may be imperceptible health hazards related to FDM / FFF printers and therefore additional safety precautions are, in my opinion, necessary and not optional or secondary as suggested by some in the community.\n\nIn other words, if you can isolate your printer in a well-vented area where people rarely go, then of course it's not a health risk, but if people will be exposed to the air of the printer for any significant periods of time, you need to do something about it. This is my situation - where I live dedicated workshops and extra rooms are luxuries that most people do not have.\n\n\n\nRealistic Chance of Being Dangerous --> Treat It As Dangerous\n\nThe key information at this point in time is the UFP (Ultra-Fine Particle) study that is linked in Tom's answer.\n\nLeaving out the scary / detailed parts:\n\n\n Therefore, results herein suggest that caution should be used when\n operating these 3D printing instruments inside unvented or unfiltered\n indoor environments due to their large emissions of UFPs.\n \n One important limitation to this study is that we have no information\n about the chemical constituents of the UFPs emitted from either type\n of 3D printer [...]\n \n [...] there may also be\n differences in toxicity because of differences in chemical\n composition.\n\n\nThis means that although many processes release UFPs (the authors of the paper compare to cooking), all UFPs are not created equal. Since the UFPs from 3D printing are still an unknown, the only real answer from a safety perspective is to treat them as dangerous.\n\n\n\nThis is not legal, safety, or professional advice!\n\nI am not qualified to give an opinion on what should be done but I will share what I would do:\n\n\nVenting - Active airflow pushing the envelope of air around the print into a large, unpopulated body of air.\nEnclosure + Venting - By fully enclosing your printer, it will probably keep the UFPs mostly within the enclosure. You could combine that with either continuous venting or as some have suggested purge venting before opening the enclosure.\nEnclosure + Filtering - A filter can be applied both to the vent to reduce the output of UFPs (e.g. if you have no access to a safe body of air) and as a recirculating system that removes the UFPs from the body of air within the enclosure.\n\n\nA note on positive vs negative pressure related to venting and filtering: if you produce positive pressure within the enclosure, you are going to be blowing all the UFPs out into your environment anyway. Negative pressure vented to a safe body of air or neutral pressure with good seals and recirculated filtering may avoid that.\n\nA note on filters: Activated carbon filters will not remove UFPs. HEPA filters may remove 3D printing UFPs.\n\n\n\nWhich Printer?\n\nAs long as the uncertainty exists, I predict that as the market matures, filtering and enclosures will become more standard. At this point in time, the only enclosed AND HEPA filtered consumer-grade FDM printers I am aware of are the Up! Box and the Zortrax Inventure. There are a number of enclosed printers without filtering.\n\nAs an alternative, at least one company has appeared with products targeted at those who are concerned about various safety aspects of 3d printing.\n\",3.2133663407215876,0.0\n6,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,3.767809650974757,4.305810774244716,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,3.749318730431847,3.299796711874648,Multi-color printing with desktop 3D printer?,\"My MakerBot printer supports only two filaments at the same time.\n\nWhat are techniques to print objects with more than two colors for one object?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The most obvious solution is to pause the print and swap filament for another color.\n\nAnother option is to splice pieces of filament together, though this does not allow very precise control of when the switch happens. There is also a device that can automatically slice filament this way.\n\nFinally, another option that uses very little external equipment is to use (permanent) markers to colorize light-colored filament.\n\nOther options include upgrading to a printer with more hotends, or installing a hotend with multiple filament inputs and one outputs, but these options would involve significantly changing your printer setup.\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n6,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,3.767809650974757,4.305810774244716,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,3.749318730431847,3.299796711874648,Multi-color printing with desktop 3D printer?,\"My MakerBot printer supports only two filaments at the same time.\n\nWhat are techniques to print objects with more than two colors for one object?\n\",Tony Hansen,\"Answering this question fully depends on the type of printer you have. Some printers have a pause capability, while others do not. Some have multiple extruders, while most do not. Some have a tube leading to the extruder and others do not. You specifically are asking about dealing with more than two colors when you have a dual-extruder, but the question generalizes to how to get more colors than you have extruders.\n\nMarkers probably offer the easiest solution. You could have different markers on the feeds for each extruder.\n\nFor printers with no pause ability, you might have to snip one filament and hand feed the second color after the first one until it can be caught by the feeder gear.\n\nThere are rigs that are available, or that you can make, that will let you connect two strands together lengthwise. You can then make up a single piece of filament that has multiple colors. Thus, one extruder head will be generating multiple colors.\n\nThe Kickstarter mentioned elsewhere essentially does this automatically for several strands whose lengths are calculated precisely by special software. The result is a single strand of filament that goes into one of your extruders - the other extruder would be unused with this solution.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n11,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,6.049731802703411,7.633809159772513,7.703979648734118,6.681864532431616,6.457297638258076,4.431549196390846,How do I give 3D-printed parts in PLA a shiny smooth finish?,\"The surfaces of my printed parts using PLA plastic look rough and uneven.\n\nWould changing filament to a better one make any difference?\n\nIf not, what kind of methods can I use to achieve a smoother finish for my for 3D-printed objects?\n\",TheNewHobbyist,\"PLA parts can be finished with a coat of epoxy like XTC-3D from Smooth-On. This will smooth out the part and give it a pretty nice shine.\n\nI've also had a fair amount of success sanding prints, giving them a coat of automotive filler primer, and using glossy spray paint.\n\nYou can also get great results with an acetone vapor finish if you're willing to switch to ABS. Though that will require a heated bed and can be a bit more finicky to work with than PLA.\n\",5.534248852833473,2.0769199823829045\n11,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,6.049731802703411,7.633809159772513,7.703979648734118,6.681864532431616,6.457297638258076,4.431549196390846,How do I give 3D-printed parts in PLA a shiny smooth finish?,\"The surfaces of my printed parts using PLA plastic look rough and uneven.\n\nWould changing filament to a better one make any difference?\n\nIf not, what kind of methods can I use to achieve a smoother finish for my for 3D-printed objects?\n\",Jason lapointe,\"So we know what doesn't work but what does work (but not well) is alcohol! Only isopropyl alcohol 90% (and up) will work! Also at Walmart you can get stuff called Goo Gone or even better is Oops! \n\nWhat you're doing is melting the plastic chemically. Since PLA is made from corn (more or less) the same chemicals won't work on this kind of bio plastic that PLA is. ABS is an oil based product so that's why acetone works. \n\nI use those two mentioned products because they are made to remove glues and waxes and don't immediately evaporate so it has time to do its job and dissolve the plastic. Alcohol will evaporate, especially with less water content, and I absolutely positively don't want anyone doing this in a bedroom or kitchen especially do not do it without ventilation! The vapors are flammable and will build up fast at room temp and takes little to set off and it's just bad! \n\nWith alcohol I dip and soak the parts till I see them looking kind of soft like having a skin or depending on the PLA used silky. I print hotter than recommended with hot bed little to no fan and more feed because what happens is it gets denser past a certain temp and will look like its messing up and not print right like its clogged or not being fed fast enough and it's true but if you increase the feed rate to say 108 or 115 it compensates for the shrinkage and you get the same fill. \n\nNow that being said your going to get smoother prints because it becomes like watery but with faster speed and or little fan snaps it in place but the hot bed will keep it from getting too hard for the next pass of the hot end and new layer so the next layer wont go on a cold surface and can easily get squished and fused to the last layer and now two 0.15 mm layers act like three but denser and smoother. \n\nThen with the Oops! chemical or alcohol I just take what's left of the imperfections off. I take a dustless cloth and apply the solution onto it and wiping in the same direction with very little pressure till it feels like the cloth is getting stuck or its biting then I leave it alone for 15 seconds and wash it off by dunking it in a bucket of cold soapy water then rinse with fresh water and repeat if necessary. It's best if you use string to hold or suspend the parts because it's easy to leave prints behind. \n\nAlso even better (and I don't offer this because any liquid when atomized can be flammable - besides water) is to use spray bottles instead and lightly spray the same process on and dip-and-dunk to take it off - instead of wiping and risking leaving prints with marks on the finished parts. \n\nThere is sanding. Lots of sanding is another way to smooth parts. \n\nI also tried conformal coating my parts which works but gets messy when trying to apply over a pre applied coat. \n\nThen there's body filler or if you use paint I recommend either automotive paint with filler primer or a paint in the automotive section specifically for plastic and vinyl or heavy thick paints but not latex but lacquer paint that is heavy and fills in imperfections but lays flat when dried! There are Lexan paints for RC and model plastics but need primer. \n\nBut your best bet is make sure that your printer is running 100 % print in as fine detail with no bigger than 0.4 mm nozzle and make sure your slicer profile is setup to work perfectly with how your machine works like your stepper numbers and everything because all that matters first and foremost your first layer determines the rest of the print! Level bed and clean level surface! New nozzle every few dozen prints makes a difference unless you get a high end tip! \n\nKeeping your Bowden tube fresh also makes a big difference! Get yourself feeler gauges and use them to level your bed instead of paper and it will be exact every time! And print the same speed and make as few adjustments as possible through the whole print and it will come out uniform. Taller prints if you need hot bed add heat as the print gets taller or nozzle temp because the print will lose heat as it gets higher up and won't print the same as the bottom layers.\n\nI hope this helps or was the answers you were looking for! I was just passing through and hate useless answers that done have anything to do with the question asked! People like to just talk I guess.\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n14,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,4.707190134647046,5.332345899456804,4.072585167927022,6.034324953675596,4.620985695623129,3.7272071097011072,How to print metal-like parts?,\"I would like to print parts (e.g. jewellery) for use which I don't want to look or feel like a plastic, but metal-like, so briefly people won't see much difference.\n\nAre there any specific type of home-printers that can achieve that? Or it's rather kind of filament that you should use?\n\",TextGeek,\"There's also an interesting discussion of printing with specially-designed solder alloys, at RepRap: Blog - A new approach to printing metals. \n\nThe author settled on 57.5%Sn, 41.3%Bi, 1.2% In, which begins to melt at 130 °C and finishes by about 170 °C. This has much better viscosity after melting, so it doesn't just drip away or bead up, and whose melting point is low enough that it can be applied directly on top of PLA or ABS. \n\nBrass nozzles corrode quickly, however, so another material is needed (anodized Al was an improvement). It sounds difficult but feasible.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n14,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,4.707190134647046,5.332345899456804,4.072585167927022,6.034324953675596,4.620985695623129,3.7272071097011072,How to print metal-like parts?,\"I would like to print parts (e.g. jewellery) for use which I don't want to look or feel like a plastic, but metal-like, so briefly people won't see much difference.\n\nAre there any specific type of home-printers that can achieve that? Or it's rather kind of filament that you should use?\n\",hroncok,\"If you'd like to print on RepRap like FDM printers, you cannot print from metal, but you can use some filament that tries to look like metal. I have good experience with Bronzefill, but there are plenty of others, just Google for metal filament 3d printing. Note that sometimes the parts need to be post-processed with a rock tumbler. There are several open source DIY tumblers you can build and use.\n\nIf you actually want to print from metal, you would need SLS (Selective laser sintering) printer, which is much more expensive.\n\",3.9604314711224866,2.0769199823829045\n19,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,4.030301511886631,4.904433942959754,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,4.091740895605862,3.4319460411998994,How to easily get rid of rafts and support structures?,\"My printed parts consist rafts, supports and other extraneous filament when printing with ABS or PLA.\n\nWhat are efficient general techniques of removing them?\n\",the third dimension,\"The best way to get rid of them is to change the design of the printed object to make them unnecessary.\n\nInstead of printing the one part with support material, the piece can be split into two or more parts which can be printed without support material and assembled after the printing.\n\n\n\nGiven that this is not always fully possible, a convenient way to get rid of additional structures is to use a different fillament for them that can be removed easily. This list of printing materials includes Polyvinyl Acetate (PVA), which is water soluble. You can wash the support material away given that your actual printign material is not water soluble. Here's a quote from the website (emphasize mine):\n\n\n PVA (Polyvinyl Acetate) filament prints translucent with a slightly yellow tint and is primarily used as a 3D printing support material because it is water-soluble, meaning that it will dissolve when exposed to water (and so MUST be kept dry prior to use). PVA is most often used with 3D printers capable of dual extrusion: one extruder printing a primary material (such as ABS or PLA) and the other printing this dissolvable filament to provide support for overhanging features. PVA 3D printer filament is available in 1.75mm and 3mm.\n\n\",3.5068404193471867,2.0769199823829045\n19,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,4.030301511886631,4.904433942959754,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,4.091740895605862,3.4319460411998994,How to easily get rid of rafts and support structures?,\"My printed parts consist rafts, supports and other extraneous filament when printing with ABS or PLA.\n\nWhat are efficient general techniques of removing them?\n\",Pete,\"I use diagonal cutters and a pair of mini pliers. \nI print with Simplify3d and the support structures are remarkably easy to remove, I find giving a quick pull pops most off. The diagonal cutters get rid of any small beads leftover. \n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n20,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,5.235888512265087,6.732353551784467,3.507933925167123,3.1880595895805834,6.377916418987655,6.203382699249042,\"What are main differences between rafts, skirts and brims?\",\"I would like to understand the differences between rafts, skirts and brims. They appear in the software which I'm using to edit my 3D objects.\n\nCan anybody elaborate what are these and what are the main differences between them?\n\",ζ--,\"All three of these features are used to improve the quality and success rate of prints, especially those failing due to issues on the first few layers, or due to the small size of the first layer.\n\nRaft\n\nA raft is a horizontal feature made as the first few layers of a print, and is used to help with bed adhesion issues, primarily used with ABS. The first few layers printed are the brim (typically prismatic), with the part itself on top of it (with a small separation distance to aid in separation, to allow the part to be removed from the raft). This separation distance needs to be adjusted to allow the first layer of the actual part to adhere, but also for the raft to be removed easily.\n\nSkirt\n\nA skirt is a single-layer feature designed to help extruder priming and to establish a stable filament flow for an optimal first layer. They are generally a few passes around the first layer \"\"footprint\"\" in the rough shape of the first layer, but they do not touch the part itself or help adhesion directly (although having a primed and ready extruder helps extrusion on its own). \n\nBrim\n\nA brim can be considered a skirt touching the first layer shape. It is used to help adhesion, and increases the first layer surface area (thus having more area to adhere to the bed). Brims are best used for parts with small first layers that fail to adhere properly. They are generally done as perimeters (as opposed to the crosshatching of infill) to be easily removable without damaging the part.\n\",3.2133663407215876,0.0\n20,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,5.235888512265087,6.732353551784467,3.507933925167123,3.1880595895805834,6.377916418987655,6.203382699249042,\"What are main differences between rafts, skirts and brims?\",\"I would like to understand the differences between rafts, skirts and brims. They appear in the software which I'm using to edit my 3D objects.\n\nCan anybody elaborate what are these and what are the main differences between them?\n\",Eric Johnson,\"Rafts:\n\nRafts are a few layers of plastic a placed on the printing surface before the object is printed. If non water dissoluble filament is used, a bit of an air gap will be placed between the raft and the print itself so it can be removed easily. A raft can help a print stick to the printing surface as it normally has a larger surface area than the bottom of the print. It also allows the bottom layers of the print to contact another layer of plastic so there is less spreading compared to printing on the printing bed itself.\n\n\n\nSkirts:\n\nSkirts are loops of plastic that are extruded around the object that is being printed. On the first layer this allows the filament to get pushed through the extruder so that a steady flow can be established. A multiple layer skirt can be used to create a blockage around the print so there is less air movement on the print and the print can cool slower.\n\n\n\nBrims:\n\nA brim is a layer of plastic that is placed on the first layer of the print go allow for better adhesion to the printing surface. It does not extend under the print as a raft does, but only goes from the edge of the print to a set distance away. \n\n\n\nCredits: Images from Slic3r\n\",5.466214909488349,2.0769199823829045\n28,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,-2.8153892694839717,3.642950305588681,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,How to 3D print a bike?,\"I've seen article about World's First 3D Printed Bike.\n\nWhat kind of printer is required to do that, briefly how long it takes and how much does it cost? Is this even achievable at home? Doesn't need to be that specific one. \n\",Dani Epstein,\"You will need a laser sintering or lasercusing printer, which will not be something you can buy for home use. They are horribly expensive.\n\nYou could always print this in PLA or ABS and cast it in aluminium. Then you have to find a safe method to test the result, because casting is not quite as simple as it looks and the bike could be seriously dangerous.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n33,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,3.9045305118418514,3.828896735094969,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,4.731113485304429,4.278234949448167,How many times printed printer can print it-self?,\"There is a 3D desktop printer RepRap which can print most of its own components.\n\nAssuming each printed printer will print the next one and so on. Are there any limitation how many times this can be achieved?\n\nFor example somebody printed for me printer and I do the same for my friends and they do the same for theirs. Can this go forever (since 3D model stays the same), or there are any serious side-effects/disadvantages of doing that continuously?\n\",Adam Davis,\"The files used to print these objects are digital, and do not degrade in any way after each printing. There are no side effects or degradation that occurs over time due simply to printing them multiple times.\n\nThis is the RepRap philosophy, and the machines are actually designed with enough tolerance for printing and building mistakes that even if the print isn't perfect, it will not only work fine, but it can print a printer better than it was printed, with some care and attention to calibration.\n\nThe process still takes a lot of human intervention, in the way of building the new printer and properly calibrating it. If there are errors in the printer or the prints it produces, they can almost always be attributed to the builder/calibrator/user, and not to the design or the fact it's the Nth generation of printer.\n\",4.0548168669725735,2.0769199823829045\n33,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,3.9045305118418514,3.828896735094969,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,4.731113485304429,4.278234949448167,How many times printed printer can print it-self?,\"There is a 3D desktop printer RepRap which can print most of its own components.\n\nAssuming each printed printer will print the next one and so on. Are there any limitation how many times this can be achieved?\n\nFor example somebody printed for me printer and I do the same for my friends and they do the same for theirs. Can this go forever (since 3D model stays the same), or there are any serious side-effects/disadvantages of doing that continuously?\n\",Matt Clark,\"As long as you maintain each printer and keep a proper calibration, go for it, this is what they were designed to do, I've even made replacement parts for myself.\n\nUnfortunately the RepRap project just shut down on 1/15/16 due to their lack of sales.\n\nI have a reprap that came from a reprap, and has made another reprap.\n\nJust make sure that when printing out the pieces for the next you are properly calibrated, otherwise the next machine might be built crooked;\n\nYour only limitations will be the electronics pieces and the small amount of hardware that you will need to buy.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n49,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,3.267423727073639,3.4733367161777027,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Are there any methods of limiting exposure of hazardous fumes and odors emitted by heating the plastics?,\"When using thermoplastic-filament, this can be potentially hazardous, since constant printing can emit hazardous fumes and odors that may be emitted by heating the plastics.\n\nI understand it normally should be used in well ventilated areas. However I would like to use it heavily in the basement which is not well ventilated.\n\nAre there any practical methods of limiting such exposure? For example locking it in some special box, covering it or suck the odors? Would that help?\n\nDo you have any experience doing so?\n\",Adam Davis,\"Using negative pressure ventilation and a suitable organic filter will limit your exposure to toxic compounds, but won't completely remove them from your environment.\n\nEnclose your printer in as air-tight a box as you can manage, then use a fan to suck air out of the box. This negative pressure will ensure that any leaks in the box will not allow gasses to escape.\n\nThe air should be blown through an organic filter. This might be done with face mask filters for painting, for instance.\n\nAdditional filtering may be done depending on the compounds you expect the printer to produce, but the ideal situation is to set up a ventilation system to the outdoors where the products cannot concentrate and harm anyone.\n\nAnother poorer option is to simply wear a proper organic filter mask yourself. It's not as good, since the compounds can spread through your residence or remain in the air and be inhaled when you aren't printing.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n59,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,5.178744081378276,4.941464167462551,4.072585167927022,3.1880595895805834,5.623978095647771,5.3106318412626115,How to recycle filament material from printed parts?,\"Is it possible to re-use ABS or PLA filament material from printed parts?\n\nIf so, what is the techniques to reform it?\n\",Kevin Morse,\"There are a few options.\n\n\nMachines are available which grind the used plastic into fine pieces, melt it down, and extrude it as filament to be reused. Filabot is perhaps the most well known.\nDepending on where you live the local recycling programs may accept PLA or ABS. They will then shred it and melt it down for reuse.\nPLA is bio-degradable so you can put it in the compost.\nI put scrap ABS in acetone which results in a slurry which can be used as a glue to attach ABS parts, fix cracks, and hold parts to the bed.\n\n\",4.820049511082381,2.0769199823829045\n59,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,5.178744081378276,4.941464167462551,4.072585167927022,3.1880595895805834,5.623978095647771,5.3106318412626115,How to recycle filament material from printed parts?,\"Is it possible to re-use ABS or PLA filament material from printed parts?\n\nIf so, what is the techniques to reform it?\n\",YetAnotherRandomUser,\"If you're more interested in the recycling and reuse aspect than the re-print aspect, you could melt all the scrap filament onto a cookie sheet or into a bar (like in a bread ban). You could then manually work the material, or use a CNC machine to carve out your next thing.\n\nThis Youtube video refers to HDPE, but the same concept will apply to other thermoplastics.\n\nThis Youtube video uses a cookie sheet and failed prints.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n83,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,4.356564969431519,4.590028253642861,0.0,4.670422881206417,4.503257053771732,3.4319460411998994,How to automate printing of multiple parts continuously?,\"I would like to print multiple parts continuously (non-interactively), so\nI can leave the printer alone for a longer time. So after finish, parts could be moved somehow out from the printing area, so the next can start.\n\nAre there any methods of achieving that with standard desktop printers without having to use multiple printers?\n\",tbm0115,\"The only thing I can think of off hand is an old mod for the early MakerBot machines. It first was released for the Thing-O'-Matic I believe, but is compatible with Replicator 1 machines (and its knock-offs). Here's the Thingiverse page, but look up Automatic Build Plate.\n\nEssentially, you can use the Replicator G slicing program and there is a setting for \"\"ABP\"\" or Automatic Build Plate. This will basically tell the ABP to run its routine after the controller receives the response that the printing program is done and roll the finished part off the edge of the build plate, then start the same program over again.\n\nDrawbacks:\n\n\nI don't think it's easily compatible with newer machines/slicers. But, it's open source\nPretty sure you have to use Replicator G, which is outdated now and may make your machine sound like it's going to fall apart (I know from experience)\n\n\nGoing off of @Pete's answer about solenoids. It reminded me that someone integrated a solenoid \"\"ejector\"\" (aka Boxing Glove) for their machine.\n\nUpdate (06/08/2016):\n\nForgot to mention that if you choose to create your own \"\"Boxing Glove\"\" or conveyor belt, some software such as Octo-Pi and Repetier-Host allow plugins. So, you could interface with your hardware via customized code and integrate the functionality directly into the slicing application for the full closed loop operation.\n\",3.859531739127555,2.0769199823829045\n83,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,4.356564969431519,4.590028253642861,0.0,4.670422881206417,4.503257053771732,3.4319460411998994,How to automate printing of multiple parts continuously?,\"I would like to print multiple parts continuously (non-interactively), so\nI can leave the printer alone for a longer time. So after finish, parts could be moved somehow out from the printing area, so the next can start.\n\nAre there any methods of achieving that with standard desktop printers without having to use multiple printers?\n\",Pete,\"It would be possible and not too terribly difficult to rig a servo or solenoid with a push plate like a plow, on top of your build plate. \n\nHowever this would require another processor via raspberry pi or arduino to control it. Scripting execution when the print has completed wouldn't be terribly difficult either, but it isn't readily available and certainly isn't part of a mass produced printer. \n\nMy issue with the concept is if you push a bunch of prints off the build plate, what guarantee do you have they wont become damaged in the process?\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n92,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,3.0576060275493275,3.282132985301826,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,What type of plastic can be used to produce your own filament?,\"I'm considering purchasing Filabot or some similar filament maker.\n\nWhat kind of plastic can I use to produce my own filament? Can I use any type of plastic or just specific printable filaments? Can I also mix different types of filament together or only one type at a time?\n\",Oleg Mazurov,\"Filament manufacturers (for example, Colorfabb) also sell pellets, price per kilo would be about 10 times less than the same plastic in filament form.\n\nOut of household garbage only ABS can be easily extruded into filament with Filabot-grade machine. PET AKA plastic bottles looks promising as well.\n\nYou can also use certain products \"\"off-label\"\". For example, string trimmer string (line) is simply a nylon filament and can be used as-is in modern diameter-agnostic hot end.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n164,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,3.267423727073639,4.573087342022355,0.0,2.011441651225199,4.091740895605862,4.592941926651472,Can I print my own Lego bricks?,\"Assuming I've 3D design (or I've created one) which looks very similar to Lego bricks, I am allowed to 3D print them for my personal use?\n\nDo I need to obtain some permission to do so, because of some patents? Or how does it work?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The patents that cover Lego bricks have expired, so you are free to print bricks using the same interlocking system. You are even allowed to offer such prints commercially.\n\nWhat is not allowed (and a violation of trademark law) is to call them \"\"Lego bricks\"\" or use Lego's logo. \"\"Compatible with Lego\"\" on the other hand, would be fine.\n\",3.5068404193471867,2.0769199823829045\n168,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,1.0891412423578797,3.2764534681924653,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"I've exported 3D models from the game, can I print them?\",\"Assuming I've extracted 3D models from a game which I legally bought (such as StarCraft). I am allowed to 3D print them for personal use or give it to close friends?\n\nIs there any general rule, or this suppose to be specified in the license? If so, which section/clause potentially can prevent me from doing that? Or I need to contact the company who owns the game to obtain the permission?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"No. Such figures are generally covered by copyright, which means that nobody but the copyright holder is allowed to (re-)produce copies of the work. Copyright also covers personal use. In the US there are limited fair use exceptions but they do not apply here.\n\nThe only way to do this legally is if it is specifically authorized in a license or if you get permission.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n171,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,3.9045305118418514,5.298134376100513,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,3.535506697183007,How to print edible food?,\"I would like to print edible cookies or ornamentation for a cake.\n\nIs printing with edible materials achievable by standard thermoplastic-like 3D desktop printer? Or you need to buy a special printer to do that?\n\",Daniel M.,\"You can, but that doesn't mean it's very easy.\n\nYou don't have to buy a special printer, but you need a special extruder (such as http://www.structur3d.io/). Most of these systems can print anything with the consistency of Nutella. However, many parts of the printer may not be food safe.\n\nAnother option (if you simply want 2d designs) is something like the PancakeBot. It can probably also \"\"print\"\" with anything that has the same consistency of pancake batter.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n171,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,3.9045305118418514,5.298134376100513,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,3.535506697183007,How to print edible food?,\"I would like to print edible cookies or ornamentation for a cake.\n\nIs printing with edible materials achievable by standard thermoplastic-like 3D desktop printer? Or you need to buy a special printer to do that?\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"You cannot print edible models using a \"\"standard\"\" consumer 3D printer without first installing an \"\"hot end\"\" capable of depositing edible - normally thicker - substances as well as a suitable extruder mechanism. \n\nHowever, there are not necessarily any technical limitations in the electronics, software, slicers etc. in a typical printer that wouldn't allow you to install such an upgrade. For instance, you could calibrate your extrusion rate and nozzle width to suit batter and similar.\n\nSome commercial printers, such as the DeltaWASP allow for upgrades that print clay, which wouldn't be very different from printing liquid food.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n181,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,2.528907649931287,5.095079242096823,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.9505769891325135,Can you use PLA material with food and drinks?,\"I would like to print fancy plastic cutlery sets or plastic glasses.\n\nIs it safe to do it? Or bad for your health, if so, why?\n\",Adam Davis,\"Having performed a quick search through all the resources at the FDA Food Contact Substance resource, I cannot find PLA in any list except an occasional notification that a specific manufacturer has obtained approval for use in specific circumstances, with the notice that such notifications are only valid for that manufacturer and cannot be used to validate another use of a substance.\n\nThere are companies that have received approval for their specific formulation and use of PLA as a food contact substance. You may wish to discuss this further with your material supplier to find out if they have approved PLA product available.\n\nWithout specific product approval, though, PLA is not on the lists of generally recognized as safe, nor approved for food contact use.\n\nRegulations in other countries may differ, so you may want to search the EU directives, for instance, to find out their opinion on PLA as an FCS.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n181,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,2.528907649931287,5.095079242096823,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.9505769891325135,Can you use PLA material with food and drinks?,\"I would like to print fancy plastic cutlery sets or plastic glasses.\n\nIs it safe to do it? Or bad for your health, if so, why?\n\",Daniel M.,\"As others have pointed out, PLA isn't specifically not food safe, but materials that have been printed previously can contaminate the PLA.\n\nAdditionally, anything 3D printed is extremely porous. Once a part is used for food, moisture and bacteria will accumulate in the pores, and can never be completely cleaned out, contaminating any food that contacts it. It can't be sterilized either, because the temperatures needed for sterilization would deform or melt the plastic.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n2608,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,2.1782824847157594,4.44624912006446,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Possible ways to print soft skin for human robot?,\"Are there any 3D printing filaments or specially designed desktop systems which can print soft artificial skin for human-robot? For example made of soft silicone or something similar?\n\",StarWind0,\"Oh that is a tricky tricky question!\n\nFirst you will probably need a good scan of the robot. You will have the cad of the robot but chances are scanning will make life easier.\n\nhttp://www.3ders.org/articles/20151201-kinect-easy-3d-printing-tool-with-release-of-3d-scan-app-for-windows.html\n\nAlso see Reprap for other options\n\nhttp://reprap.org/wiki/3D_scanning\n\nFollowing... it is not going to be that simple. If it was my project I would\nPrint a mold out of ABS. ABS reacts to acetone and you can vapor treat it.\n\nhttp://www.logarithmic.net/pfh/blog/01366106156\n\n\n\nThat said you might burn your house down. Also it is inconsistent. But would give you a smooth finish. \n\nNext you can do just normal mold printing and be okay with the ribbing. Then you pour your silicon material\n\n\n\nNext you can well just print with silicon. The ninjaflex guys have a ton of different types of flexible materials and new ones coming out. \n\nhttps://ninjatek.com/products/filaments/ninjaflex/\n\n\n\nOn that topic I will mention a local company that I have no direct affiliation with. I just see them at the hacker space. They make a extruder just for flexibles. \n\nhttps://flexionextruder.com/\n\nOther areas to look at. More for making metal but it may be of use.\n\nhttp://www.instructables.com/id/From-3d-printed-part-to-metal-the-lost-plaabs-me/\n\nLast is again the mold but you make the molds on a expensive form 1. Or you make the skin on the form1 as they can do flexibles. Small build area. Material is around 100 a ltr or more\n\nhttp://formlabs.com/products/3d-printers/form-1-plus/\n\nGood luck!\n\nAlso check out this facebook group (no affiliation) \n\nhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/3DPrintProps/\n\nIf anyone has done this it is those guys. Oh Wait No I take that back Look into these fellows. They have a very active group. (google group) not to mention that they are also directly doing what you are.\n\nhttp://inmoov.fr/\n\n\n\n\nJust don't be like this guy and make it look like a movie star... \nhttp://www.mirror.co.uk/news/weird-news/man-builds-scarlet-johansson-robot-7667715\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n3,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CJK,4.626593049438165,5.2127529102227,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,3.929104701733314,3.6337541582048245,How important is the minimum layer height on a 3d printer?,\"I know the minimum layer height will effect how detailed of an item you can print and the amount of time it takes to print something, but is it necessary to have an extremely low minimum layer height if you plan to print only larger objects?\n\",tbm0115,\"As with any manufacturing process, you'll need to learn to \"\"use the right tool for the job\"\". It depends on the requirements of the part. To answer your question, I would suggest using a larger layer height for the sheer fact of reducing print time on larger objects.\n\nHowever, it depends on the part and how small the details are on the part. If your part has sharp edges that are required for the proper functionality of the part, then you'll want to use a smaller layer height. Or if your part fits into another part, you'll probably want to use a smaller layer height.\n\nAnother variable might be whether or not post-processing is necessary. Is this part going to be purposefully printed larger/rougher with the idea to use a Dremel later to smooth everything out? If yes, then use a larger layer height.\n\",3.0411126502294303,0.0\n3,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CJK,4.626593049438165,5.2127529102227,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,3.929104701733314,3.6337541582048245,How important is the minimum layer height on a 3d printer?,\"I know the minimum layer height will effect how detailed of an item you can print and the amount of time it takes to print something, but is it necessary to have an extremely low minimum layer height if you plan to print only larger objects?\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"I believe the Slic3r Manual summarizes this quite nicely:\n\n\n A thicker layer height will provide more flow, and consequently more heat, making the extrusion adhere to the bed more. It also gives the benefit of giving more tolerance for the levelness of the bed. It is recommended to raise the first layer height to match the diameter of the nozzle, e.g. a first layer height of 0.35mm for a 0.35mm nozzle.\n\n\nIn other words, larger layer heights for the first layer typically gives better adhesion, and makes inaccurate bed leveling (and auto leveling) still work.\n\",3.367452517504837,2.0769199823829045\n5,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CJK,5.673830510646552,5.334604574391176,4.533938825782293,5.199501240805782,5.745914849350172,4.291867786752632,How is PLA different from ABS material?,\"What are the main differences when using ABS over PLA and vice versa?\n\",Kevin Morse,\"Paraphrasing this site. Feel free to add suggestions in the form of comments and I will try to incorporate them.\n\nSummary\n\n\nABS: Stronger, machinable, more flexible, and more temperature\nresistant than PLA. Typically printed on a heated bed. Warping is a common problem when printing ABS.\nPLA: Wider range of filaments available, easier and in some cases faster to print. Not as strong as ABS and the fact that its biodegradable could be seen as both a benefit and a drawback.\n\n\nMaterial Properties:\n\n\nABS: Strong plastic with mild flexibility. Naturally beige in color. Can be filled and sanded. Higher temperature. Easy to recycle.\nPLA: Not as strong as ABS but more rigid. Naturally transparent. More difficult to fill and sand. Can sag in hot temperatures. Sourced from organic matter so it can be broken down in commercial compost facilities.\n\n\nPart Accuracy:\n\n\nABS: Part warping is a significant issue. Sharp corners will often be rounded.\nPLA: Less heat required contributes to less warping. Becomes more liquid at common extruder temperatures so finer details can be printed.\n\n\nSafety and Handling:\n\n\nABS: Strong burning/melting plastic smell is present when printing ABS. Health concerns have been raised regarding airborne ultrafine particles generated while printing with ABS (ref). ABS will absorb moisture causing popping when the moisture enters the hot end. This leads to discontinuities in the print job.\nPLA: Doesn't smell as strongly when printing due to its organic nature. Moisture can also be absorbed into PLA and can irreversibly damage it.\n\n\",4.924555819618872,2.0769199823829045\n5,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CJK,5.673830510646552,5.334604574391176,4.533938825782293,5.199501240805782,5.745914849350172,4.291867786752632,How is PLA different from ABS material?,\"What are the main differences when using ABS over PLA and vice versa?\n\",3dsolutech_plafilament,\"Basic facts and tips for using and choosing ABS and PLA materials:\n\nMade from:\n\nABS: Petroleum based\n\nPLA: Corn or other plants\n\n\nSmell: \n\nABS: smell of hot plastic, \n\nPLA: gives off a smell similar to a semi-sweet cooking oil. Less intense smell than ABS. \n\n\nPart Accuracy: \n\nBoth PLA and ABS are capable of building dimensionally accurate parts. However, there are characteristics that we need to memorized.\nABS: will be curling upwards of the surface in direct contact with the 3D printer’s print bed. for fine and delicate features on parts involving sharp corners, such as gears, there will often be a slight rounding of the corner. \nPLA: much less part warping. but it undergoes more of a phase-change when heated and becomes much more liquid. The increased flow can also lead to stronger binding between layer.\n\nRecycling:\n\n\nABS: Recycling number 7, most local recycling programs do not accept ABS. It generally being recycled into plastic lumber. \nPLA: it biodegrades, however the process takes a long time when outside of an industrial composting facility\nWhy we provide a vacuum sealed package for ABS and PLA products? \nlong term exposure to a humid environment without sealed package may result in detrimental effects, both to the printing process and to the quality of finished parts. \n\nABS: will tend to bubble and spurt from the tip of the nozzle when printing, part accuracy, strength are reduced. Raises the risk of clogging the nozzle. ABS can be easily dried by using dry or hot air.\nPLA: bubbles or sporting at the nozzle, also discoloration and a reduction in 3D printed part are found when in long term moisture environment. \nImproving the printing outcomes （Blue tape and Kapton tape pictures)\nPLA: printing temperature approximately: 190°C - 240°C\nABS: printing temperature approximately: 225°C - 250°C (recommend to use a heated print bed)\n\nA good first layer adhesion is of the utmost importance in obtaining the best results for the prints. \n\nUsing Blue Tape or Kapton Tape.\nHairspray the print bed.\nTo attain optimal result for the prints, you need to consider variables such as nozzel diameter, printing speed, and layer height.\nSummary: \nABS: \nA preferred filament for the prints with engineering and professional purposes with its strength, machinability, flexibility, and higher temperature resistance. \nThe bad plastic smell is due to the petroleum based origin. \nRequired a heated print bed to attain ABS printing reliability. \nPLA:\nWide range of available colors, provide translucencies and glossy feel of the prints. \nPlant based and semi-sweet corn like smelling are appreciated over ABS.\nWhen properly cooled, PLA seems to perform higher maximum printing speeds, and sharper printed corners. Combining this with low warping on parts make it a popular plastic for household uses, toys, hobbyists, and educational purposes. \nto know more please visit abs vs pla\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,1337joe,4.146747269907207,6.065578424358489,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,3.548335113978322,2.2279055228048463,3d printing for outdoor use: what types of filament are most weather resistant?,\"I'd like to print modifications for my birdfeeder, both to patch over the hail damage from last summer and to try to deter the neighborhood squirrels. I have an FDM printer (and experience with nylon, ABS, and PLA, though don't restrict answers to those if there's something else that's better), what kind of filament would stand up best to daily exposure to sun, rain, snow, etc?\n\",Markus Appel,\"I think ABS would be your best bet. It's not biodegradable and realtivley easy to print.\n\nBut you can use more or less any material if you use some form of coating on it. I would always go for coated PLA instead of other materials just because PLA is the easiest to print and it's nontoxic.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,1337joe,4.146747269907207,6.065578424358489,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,3.548335113978322,2.2279055228048463,3d printing for outdoor use: what types of filament are most weather resistant?,\"I'd like to print modifications for my birdfeeder, both to patch over the hail damage from last summer and to try to deter the neighborhood squirrels. I have an FDM printer (and experience with nylon, ABS, and PLA, though don't restrict answers to those if there's something else that's better), what kind of filament would stand up best to daily exposure to sun, rain, snow, etc?\n\",ON5MF Jurgen,\"I have several items printed in PLA that have been outdoors for about a year now. Apart from some discoloration I don't see any structural damage (yet?). Some of them are at the south side of a building so they get maximum sunlight.\n\nOf course Belgian summers can not be compared to Arizona summers!\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n13,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kaine,4.541637296610063,3.742219428517731,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,4.731113485304429,3.922162247820266,Resolution Drawbacks,\"With an ABS or PLA extrusion 3D printer, are there any potentially negative quality differences that could occur if I try to print at a higher resolution?\n\nI am not concerned about print time as the equipment is not under high demand. I am, however, worried the device may be more prone to fracture, likely to have defects, or have other issues I cannot currently imagine.\n\",Adam Davis,\"The biggest effect I've see on resolution is due to plastic stress due to thermal gradients.\n\nThe higher resolution prints build up more layers of material, and each layer has a cumulative effect on thermal stress. The upper layers pulling up more as they cool, and the lower layers curling up more strongly as the layer count is increased.\n\nTo counteract this, a heated (or even just a draft free) enclosure makes a big difference. Having a heated print bed helps significantly, as long as the bed itself resists deformation (a sheet metal or PCB bed will bend more than glass under the same tension, for instance).\n\nThe actual plastic strength, however, appears increased. Laying down thinner layers of material appears to increase the bond strength between layers.\n\",4.0548168669725735,2.0769199823829045\n13,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kaine,4.541637296610063,3.742219428517731,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,4.731113485304429,3.922162247820266,Resolution Drawbacks,\"With an ABS or PLA extrusion 3D printer, are there any potentially negative quality differences that could occur if I try to print at a higher resolution?\n\nI am not concerned about print time as the equipment is not under high demand. I am, however, worried the device may be more prone to fracture, likely to have defects, or have other issues I cannot currently imagine.\n\",TextGeek,\"It's also worth noting that the ratio of nozzle diameter to layer height affects strength. The layer height is typically set slightly smaller than the nozzle diameter, so the nozzle \"\"squeezes\"\" the new plastic onto the previous layer. This is especially important for the first layer, because it affects how well the object sticks to the bed; but it also affects inter-layer strength.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n16,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kaine,4.78385405467542,5.763682032868019,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,4.091740895605862,4.345449058359031,Are there any ways to make a 3D print transparent?,\"I am aware of several \"\"clear\"\" filaments for a ABS or PLA printer. They, however, have a cloudy or frosted glass appearance. I do not believe this is possible to eliminate but I believe it can be reduced.\n\nAre there effective ways to make a print have a more transparent appearance?\n\",the third dimension,\"You can make a mold from the print and then get a cast from that mold with a clear casting material.\n\",3.0411126502294303,0.0\n16,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kaine,4.78385405467542,5.763682032868019,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,4.091740895605862,4.345449058359031,Are there any ways to make a 3D print transparent?,\"I am aware of several \"\"clear\"\" filaments for a ABS or PLA printer. They, however, have a cloudy or frosted glass appearance. I do not believe this is possible to eliminate but I believe it can be reduced.\n\nAre there effective ways to make a print have a more transparent appearance?\n\",walter,\"It depends on a lot of factors, type of plastic, whether the parts need to be strong, can you use a vase print, etc. Here's a few thoughts.\n\nPLA - The brand of PLA makes a big difference, some can be printed very clear, some can't. Most of the transparent PLAs I've used print much more clear at around 240°C.\n\nABS - I've seen some pretty impressive clear parts printed as a single layer shell in ABS and then vapor smoothed. I tend to find ABS more translucent and less transparent though.\n\nPETG - Again the specific PETG you use matters, but I haven't seen nearly as much variation as with PLA. I'm not sure how much temperature matters, but if it's too hot you get bubbles which will decrease clarity.\n\nThin Wall Prints - I don't have much experience here, but the Smooth On XTC-3D or vapor smoothing seem to be effective.\n\nSolid Prints\nIf I want transparency, I usually print it at 100% infill (should be a real 100%, too much overextrusion or underextrusion will decrease transparency). Printing slower and with less cooling sometimes helps. It's easier to get the infill solid with a direct drive extruder, I couldn't get decent results with a long bowden tube (a short bowden tube works fine).\n\nHere's a page where I tested 10 transparent filaments, the printed samples are 2mm thick, 100% infill - http://thrinter.com/10-transparent-filaments. Those samples are all overextruded a bit, you can get better results if you dial in the extrusion precisely, but that's hard to get right, and the optimal settings may change slightly depending on the part geometry. Larger nozzles and thicker layers may help to, but I haven't experimented much with that as there are significant downsides to that approach.\n\",3.5068404193471867,2.0769199823829045\n38,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kaine,3.618048892289167,5.189806893897094,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,Conversion of 3 mm ABS filament to 1.75 mm,\"I have a few kg of 3 mm filament when I only have use for 1.75 mm.\n\nHow can I make 1.75 mm from 3 mm filament?\n\",Adam Davis,\"In theory, making filament is easy. You take a 3 mm hotend with a 1.75 mm hole, and extrude the 3 mm (sometimes actually 2.85 mm) filament, let it cool, and then reel it up.\n\nIn reality there are a lot of pitfalls to making filament - if the pressure isn't even, the hole not perfect, the temperature uneven, you can end up with oval filament, filament with bubbles, or worse. If you are over temperature you may damage the filament and it could look good, but not melt correctly when used. If you reel it too fast you may thin it out more than the intended diameter, or too slow and you may thicken it. A lot of hotends use steppers, which may result in ripples in the filament, so you may end up building a nearly custom filament machine.\n\nResolving all these problems is probably not worth simply selling or giving away the filament to someone that can use it, and buying the right size for your machine.\n\nIf you are still interested, though, you might as well go all the way and build a full filament extruder that accepts raw plastic feedstock (usually pellets) as well as your filament, and convert it that way, then continue using it to create your own filament.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n38,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kaine,3.618048892289167,5.189806893897094,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,Conversion of 3 mm ABS filament to 1.75 mm,\"I have a few kg of 3 mm filament when I only have use for 1.75 mm.\n\nHow can I make 1.75 mm from 3 mm filament?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The best option is to find somebody in need of 3 mm filament and trade them for it (either in exchange for 1.75 mm filament or in exchange for legal tender with which to buy said filament).\n\nThe next best option would be to cut it into small pieces, and feed those into a filament extrusion system such as the filastruder.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n401,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kaine,3.618048892289167,5.054288711362341,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Can general purpose polystryene (not HIPS) be used for 3D printing?,\"High Impact PolyStyrene (HIPS) is a frequently used filament in 3D printing. It has been touted to have simular properties when printed to ABS and is especially useful for support structures (if the user has a multi-nozzle 3d Printer) as it is soluble in Limonene.\n\nGeneral Purpose PolyStyrene (GPPS) is frequently used in disposible cups, cutlery, etc. I don't believe I have seen it as a 3D printing filament. This is not styrofoam for the purpose of this question despite the identical chemical properties as the incorperated air makes it difficult to recycle.\n\nWould filament produced from GPPS, be usable on most FFF 3D printers that are capable of using ABS, PLA, and HIPS? Are that any particular issues observed with such filaments that would not be observed with HIPS (besides the implied decrease in impact resistance)?\n\nNote: For the purpose of this question, I am assuming that the filament can be produced and am concerned about whether the filament would be usable for support structures and infill.\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"In principle, it should work fine as a filament, since it's used extensively in the plastic extrusion industry, but I don't think you'd get great material properties out of it. ABS and HIPS incorporate polybutadiene into a graft polymer structure for a very good reason: the butadiene sections in the long molecular chains kind of \"\"stick together\"\" as a distinct solid phase to produce what amounts to micro-bubbles of rubber inside a matrix of hard styrene or acrylonitrile-styrene plastic. This compound microstructure is what gives HIPS and ABS favorable impact toughness and some minor flexibility.\n\nThe flexibility is important -- the stiffer a filament is, the more it will tend to warp while printing. Based on chemistry alone, I would expect styrene to be somewhat more prone to warping than ABS. And it would certainly be more brittle. So there doesn't seem to be much reason to use it as filament.\n\nInteresting sidenote: PLA/PHA has very favorable mechanical properties because the PHA forms a very similar flexible microstructure inside the hard PLA matrix. PLA/PHA is good stuff because it mimics ABS and HIPS!\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n2822,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kaine,3.618048892289167,5.964955580878797,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,What type filament should I use to produce stamps?,\"My wife wants me to use an FFM 3d printer to make custom stamps for her to use on paper (scrap books, letters, etc.). She is convinced, however, that they will be too rigid to make good stamps. A quick google search showed ones made from PLA and ABS. Logically, though, a TPU or similar would address her concerns. A good quality stamp needs to hold ink and make good, even contact with the paper. It would probably need to be able to be sanded or smoothed in some way.\n\nI am supposed to receive my printer next week or so and am trying to get some filaments, STL files, and accessories I will need ready in advance so I can rapidly learn how to use it.\n\",emackey,\"Recently I've experimented with printing some Nylon 618 filament after reading stuff online about it. I'm using a Craftbot original with the stock hotend, keeping the Nylon dry in a ziploc bag. It prints really well, just tricky to get it to stick to the bed (I'm still working on that), but otherwise it's great.\n\nOnce printed, the main difference from PLA prints is the nylon remains more flexible. If you bend a thin nylon print, it tends to just spring back to the shape that came off the printer. That's very different from my PLA prints, which will either stay bent or break apart.\n\nI believe that nylon would be a good material for you to try for stamps, because of this flexibility and shape-preserving quality. The comments show some other materials to try, but I'm limiting my answer here to my own personal experience.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n2822,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kaine,3.618048892289167,5.964955580878797,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,What type filament should I use to produce stamps?,\"My wife wants me to use an FFM 3d printer to make custom stamps for her to use on paper (scrap books, letters, etc.). She is convinced, however, that they will be too rigid to make good stamps. A quick google search showed ones made from PLA and ABS. Logically, though, a TPU or similar would address her concerns. A good quality stamp needs to hold ink and make good, even contact with the paper. It would probably need to be able to be sanded or smoothed in some way.\n\nI am supposed to receive my printer next week or so and am trying to get some filaments, STL files, and accessories I will need ready in advance so I can rapidly learn how to use it.\n\",Chris Thompson,\"I see three options...\n\n1. Print with a flexible filament:\n\n\nMany options: TPU as you pointed out, the flexible PLA that Tom mentioned, and others. Here's an article with a few options from Matter Hackers\nI'd suggest printing the stamp side down so you get a nice flat stamp with no post processing. For any wide gaps, mind your bridging...use fillets or chamfers so the \"\"roof\"\" of the gap is an upside down V or U shape.\n\n\n2. Print with any hard filament, but use a rubber mat under the paper.\n\n\nThe idea here is to use a semi-flexible surface under the paper to help get uniform contact pressure between the paper and the hard stamp. As long as your stamp holds ink, this should work okay.\n\n\n3. Print your stamp shape, then use it to make a rubber stamp.\n\n\nMaking a model and then copying it with your desired non-printable material is a common manufacturing technique that can be used in many situations. Use of molds for casting and related processes can really expand your possibilities. Check out Smooth On. They have several rubber and flexible compounds that you could use for stamps.\n\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n2843,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kaine,2.8153892694839717,3.947711316851944,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.4319460411998994,3D printing related safety precautions for a baby rattle,\"I've a friend who is expecting. There are several adorable weapon themed rattles on thingiverse. I am, however, concerned about safety associated with such a product in the hands of a baby who will gnaw on it. To me the safety concerns here are much larger than for most food handling applications.\n\nWhat steps should be taken to ensure such a print is safe for use?\n\nThis includes: filament selection, pea material selection, wall thickness, smoothing, construction, etc.\n\nMy current thoughts are as follows: \"\"food grade PLA\"\", dried peas, sanding, and single piece construction\n\",Chris Thompson,\"You're on the right track. Since you asked for \"\"steps\"\" here you go:\n\nStep 1. Choose a safe material: \n\nConsider chemical safety and physical safety. Food grade PLA should be chemically safe, but could be too brittle depending on the design you choose. PETG, T-Glase, or similar filaments (depending on dye) are normally also chemically safe and are less brittle than PLA so may be a better alternative. ABS is NOT typically considered safe for food contact.\n\nStep 2. Choose a safe design: \n\nIf using PLA, be sure the design is robust enough to ensure it won't break. Broken rattles with sharp edges make baby...sad. Even less brittle filaments can still break with jagged edges if the design is fragile.\n\nStep 2a. Choose a single piece design: \n\nChoose a design that requires you to add the peas (or other safe filler) during the print such that the finished rattle is fully enclosed. This will minimize parts becoming loose or peas spilling and minimize choke hazards.\n\nStep 3. Consider post processing to improve safety:\n\nSanding could reduce ridges and minimize crevices that could harbor bacteria, but sealing it with a food-safe sealant may be more effective. There are many sealants that the FDA considers safe, but polyurethane or food-safe epoxy finishes will work well with PLA. (If you use a different material, test to verify good adhesion.)\n\nStep 4. Test:\n\nMake a test rattle and run it through the paces. I guess you could chew on it, but since babies don't have teeth, this might invalidate your data...\n\nStep 5. Consider alternatives such as professional printing services:\n\nIf your tests don't inspire confidence, professional services can offer additional materials (metals, ceramics, etc.) that could be safer than a typical fused filament printer.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n2843,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kaine,2.8153892694839717,3.947711316851944,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.4319460411998994,3D printing related safety precautions for a baby rattle,\"I've a friend who is expecting. There are several adorable weapon themed rattles on thingiverse. I am, however, concerned about safety associated with such a product in the hands of a baby who will gnaw on it. To me the safety concerns here are much larger than for most food handling applications.\n\nWhat steps should be taken to ensure such a print is safe for use?\n\nThis includes: filament selection, pea material selection, wall thickness, smoothing, construction, etc.\n\nMy current thoughts are as follows: \"\"food grade PLA\"\", dried peas, sanding, and single piece construction\n\",Jeff Standen,\"Also consider the nozzle on your printer. Most nozzles are made of brass, which is not considered food safe due to the presence of small amounts of lead. Stainless steel nozzles are available which will not perform quite as well as brass but are food safe.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n22,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,André Teixeira,3.767809650974757,4.80139842049913,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.585260288142579,Is the weather a problem for MDF frames?,\"I've acquired all the parts to build a Reprap Prusa i3 rework, the only missing part is the frame. \n\nI'm in doubt between a MDF cut (cheaper) or acrylic (more expensive), of course a cheaper one is my preferred option until I see any disadvantage on making it of wood. \n\nI thought about variables like heat and humidity and the possibility of expansion/contraction of the frame, is this a valid concern? Will I have more precision buying the acrylic one or is it irrelevant?\n\",Dani Epstein,\"Generally speaking, MDF will weather OK. In areas of high humidity you might experience warpage, but you can mitigate that by sealing the surface with paint or varnish. However you will probably find that of the two materials, acrylic will be more stable over a few years.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n22,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,André Teixeira,3.767809650974757,4.80139842049913,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.585260288142579,Is the weather a problem for MDF frames?,\"I've acquired all the parts to build a Reprap Prusa i3 rework, the only missing part is the frame. \n\nI'm in doubt between a MDF cut (cheaper) or acrylic (more expensive), of course a cheaper one is my preferred option until I see any disadvantage on making it of wood. \n\nI thought about variables like heat and humidity and the possibility of expansion/contraction of the frame, is this a valid concern? Will I have more precision buying the acrylic one or is it irrelevant?\n\",kamuro,\"I want to add the following to the already direct and very good answer of @Dani Epstein. It does not answer your question, but hopefully may help many people who are reading the question when choosing between the two materials.\n\nAcrylic is less stable and will probably wear off faster than a well-built MDF frame for a 3D printer! I will address the points separately.\n\n\nAn MDF frame has much(!) more mass than acrylic, which will reduce vibrations immediately. Almost more important, a box frame, as typical for the Prusa i3 for example, stabilizes itself intrinsically more by its 'redundant wall' design (don't beat me up over the wording here, I didn't find a better way to describe the property that results from the towers.)\nCompare these two images taken from reprap wiki Prusa i3:\n\n\nYou will probably not find an acrylic frame with this design. Shear stress as produced by the moving carriages, as well as z-wobble from the rods should theoretically be much less.\nThe acrylic might not wear by 'natural causes' since it is not a biologic material as wood is, but it will wear much faster due to handling the material, maintenance and human errors. The material is very brittle. You can find lots of reports on the web where the frame cracked or broke during setup. Here is my favorite example from someone with a lot of experience (1:20-2:30): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wkkVk8c8XoU\nAcrylic is a bad choice in terms of its mechanical properties: It is soft (I found low tensile strength as a number to compare in the given database), has lots of thermal expansion (5 times higher than stainless steel) and melts at 160 C (so beware of anything touching your hotend). Feel free to compare it to other materials here (no MDF or plywood in that database, though ;-) ): http://www.goodfellow.com/E/Polymethylmethacrylate.html\n\n\nThis altogether makes acrylic a very bad choice for a 3d printer frame material in my opinion. Choose MDF or plywood, you can make it look cool by painting it, too.\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n35,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,James,4.030301511886631,4.170304384720499,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,4.376800063013361,4.099094618364796,Printing Plastic Replacement Parts,\"On a number of occasions I've broken small plastic parts that are nearly impossible to replace but could easily be 3-D printed. The latest such mishap is the volume knob on the factory-installed radio on my car. \n\nI have little experience in 3D printing, and would like to be able to replace these parts with something very close to the original. Spending hours measuring and designing a replacement part that should be $5 isn't really an option. I need something to scan the broken pieces in 3D and somehow just seal up the seam where it's broken.\n\nIs there a scanning/printing/software system to do this that doesn't require a lot of 3D design experience?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The easiest way is as you currently do: model the pieces by hand, using (digital) calipers to measure them.\n\nScanning technology isn't very good, and the models are not of printable quality. Usually, fixing a scan is more work than modeling an item from scratch.\n\",3.7511513460834345,0.0\n35,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,James,4.030301511886631,4.170304384720499,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,4.376800063013361,4.099094618364796,Printing Plastic Replacement Parts,\"On a number of occasions I've broken small plastic parts that are nearly impossible to replace but could easily be 3-D printed. The latest such mishap is the volume knob on the factory-installed radio on my car. \n\nI have little experience in 3D printing, and would like to be able to replace these parts with something very close to the original. Spending hours measuring and designing a replacement part that should be $5 isn't really an option. I need something to scan the broken pieces in 3D and somehow just seal up the seam where it's broken.\n\nIs there a scanning/printing/software system to do this that doesn't require a lot of 3D design experience?\n\",TextGeek,\"There is scanning technology: either hardware or software (such software typically works from multiple 2D photographs). It has limitations, but is an active research area, and getting better all the time. \"\"Autodesk 123D Catch\"\" and \"\"3-Sweep\"\" are a couple examples.\n\nOne tradeoff between automatic and manual is the complexity of the shape you need to duplicate. Sometimes you can make a much simpler shape that still works, and/or thicken the part so it doesn't break the next time. That can make manual design much more attractive.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n48,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ζ--,4.707190134647046,5.430695600850888,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,4.83456264223006,4.985206282337088,What are the reasons for my 3D prints having large numbers of strings between parts of a layer?,\"I am printing a print using PLA on a Prusa i3 printer and an MK8 extruder, at 210 degrees celsius, 60 mm/sec, sliced with slic3r. The print consists of a base, with 4 tower-like projections that then join with a near-vertical overhang slope that isn't posing a problem for my printer.\n\nHowever, even before the overhang begins, I am getting large amounts of strings as the extruder head jumps between the four towers in the print, leading to a \"\"spiderweb\"\" effect between them. How can I deal with these strings, and are they a warning that there might be something amiss with my printer, or possible other failures in other parts of the print?\n\",ζ--,\"Stringing is often a result of too-high a temperature, or insufficient retraction. When there is highly liquid filament in the nozzle tip, it can adhere to the remainder of the print while dripping as the nozzle moves, leading to a thin string of the filament forming. As further travel moves are performed in each layer, this turns to a web.\n\nThe high temperature causes filament to be very liquid, causing it to move downward in the nozzle chamber easily, as opposed to having to be extruded forcefully due to viscosity. The temperature setpoint of 210 was high enough to cause this to happen.\n\nA second possible cause, insufficient retraction, can also be blamed for this issue. Retraction is a process in which the extruder reverses its movement to pull filament back up the hotend, preventing it from dripping at the tip, and forming a string. Most slicers will allow specifying a numeric value in millimeters of filament to be retracted. Remember that printers with Bowden tubes between nozzle/hotend and extruder motor will require increased retraction and priming (extrusion when starting to print after a retract-and-move). Note that too much retraction can cause other problems, such as insufficient plastic in the hotend chamber at the start of the next printing move, which can cause gaps and other issues.\n\",4.143478317956379,2.0769199823829045\n48,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ζ--,4.707190134647046,5.430695600850888,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,4.83456264223006,4.985206282337088,What are the reasons for my 3D prints having large numbers of strings between parts of a layer?,\"I am printing a print using PLA on a Prusa i3 printer and an MK8 extruder, at 210 degrees celsius, 60 mm/sec, sliced with slic3r. The print consists of a base, with 4 tower-like projections that then join with a near-vertical overhang slope that isn't posing a problem for my printer.\n\nHowever, even before the overhang begins, I am getting large amounts of strings as the extruder head jumps between the four towers in the print, leading to a \"\"spiderweb\"\" effect between them. How can I deal with these strings, and are they a warning that there might be something amiss with my printer, or possible other failures in other parts of the print?\n\",walter,\"Here's just a few of the things you might want to look into.\n\n\nplastic - some plastic types are more stringy than others and there's also variation between brands and colors.\nmoisture in filament - water turning to steam tends to cause the extruder to ooze when it isn't printing, which can cause stringing.\ntemperature - too hot or too cold can cause stringiness.\nretraction distance - not enough retraction can leave some nozzle pressure, causing it to ooze during travel moves (not sure how much retraction speed matters but I suspect it can make a difference too).\nacceleration - if it's too slow it's more likely to draw out strings.\ntravel speed - faster travel speeds are more likely to prevent strings or make them thinner and less of a problem.\nz-hop - raising the extruder on travel moves makes stringing more likely.\nwipe - a longer wipe distance can be helpful to reduce stringing, especially with some of the more stringy filaments.\ncombing - avoiding passing over open spaces can reduce stringing in some cases\npart cooling fan - more cooling might help to reduce stringiness.\n\n\nThere are other things too, the extruder design makes a big difference with longer bowden tubes being more challenging to tune. The order in which the layers are printed can make a difference too in some more specialized cases.\n\",3.367452517504837,0.0\n229,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ζ--,3.452496054252184,5.715980664915239,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.548335113978322,3.9829738809469584,How do I set the G-code buffer size on Marlin?,\"I am reconfiguring a Printrbot Simple Metal that has been retrofitted with a RAMPS+Arduino Mega running Marlin, with a fairly slow feedrate due to mechanical and quality limitations.\n\nI am finding that upon cancelling a print where something goes wrong, I have a long period of time in which the printer is continuing to print from the G-code and movement buffer, although the host software (Octoprint) has long stopped sending G-code.\n\nIs there a way I can either a) configure Marlin to have a smaller print buffer (since Octoprint has no trouble keeping up with the printer as it stands) or b) send a particular signal or G-code to the printer that stops it without continuing to read buffer contents?\n\",ζ--,\"Marlin does allow one to change the size of the buffers, in Configuration_adv.h. In the current version there's an ifdef that switches between two cases, one with SD support, and the other without. Both have a movement planner of size 16, which can be adjusted.\n\nAdditionally, in the same file, BUFSIZE can be changed to modify the size of the buffer storing unparsed commands before they are parsed and enter the movement planner buffer.\n\nAdditionally, for some firmwares, M112 will immediately shut down the printer, no matter what is in the buffer, but the reset button will need to be used, and the axes will not be homed afterward. In Marlin, it's hardcoded to call kill().\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n3389,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ζ--,1.726248027126092,4.933913029247292,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.3995491493854546,Why am I not seeing an effect from an M42 command on Marlin?,\"I'm trying to use one of the RAMPS GPIOs to control an external device that requires a 5V low-current logic level signal from Marlin. In order to do this programmatically, my host software (Octoprint) is sending an M42 command. I am using the following syntax:\n\nM42 P4 S255\n\n\naccording to the pinout in the following image:\n\n\n\nHowever, the pin appears to not be driven to a logic HIGH level. Is there firmware-level configuration I need to do as well, or is my syntax/pin number incorrect?\n\",markshancock,\"I looked at the current Marlin code and the P24 command should work as you expect it unless the pin you are trying to use in listed as the \"\"SENSITIVE_PINS\"\" list:\n\n#define SENSITIVE_PINS { 0, 1, \\\nX_STEP_PIN, X_DIR_PIN, X_ENABLE_PIN, X_MIN_PIN, X_MAX_PIN, \\\nY_STEP_PIN, Y_DIR_PIN, Y_ENABLE_PIN, Y_MIN_PIN, Y_MAX_PIN, \\\nZ_STEP_PIN, Z_DIR_PIN, Z_ENABLE_PIN, Z_MIN_PIN, Z_MAX_PIN, Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN, \\\nPS_ON_PIN, HEATER_BED_PIN, FAN_PIN, FAN1_PIN, FAN2_PIN, CONTROLLER_FAN_PIN, \\\n_E0_PINS _E1_PINS _E2_PINS _E3_PINS _E4_PINS BED_PINS \\\n_H0_PINS _H1_PINS _H2_PINS _H3_PINS _H4_PINS \\\n_X2_PINS _Y2_PINS _Z2_PINS \\\nX_MS1_PIN, X_MS2_PIN, Y_MS1_PIN, Y_MS2_PIN, Z_MS1_PIN, Z_MS2_PIN \\\n}\n\n\nThese pins are printer specific; so, without access to your Marlin build, I can't see if pin 4 corresponds to one of these. If this is the problem, the command should be returning an error. If there is no error, I would look closely at the hardware.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n3389,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ζ--,1.726248027126092,4.933913029247292,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.3995491493854546,Why am I not seeing an effect from an M42 command on Marlin?,\"I'm trying to use one of the RAMPS GPIOs to control an external device that requires a 5V low-current logic level signal from Marlin. In order to do this programmatically, my host software (Octoprint) is sending an M42 command. I am using the following syntax:\n\nM42 P4 S255\n\n\naccording to the pinout in the following image:\n\n\n\nHowever, the pin appears to not be driven to a logic HIGH level. Is there firmware-level configuration I need to do as well, or is my syntax/pin number incorrect?\n\",Athul,\"Might be because servo pins are not connected to 5V. use Jumper as shown\n\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n54,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ʇolɐǝz ǝɥʇ qoq,3.0576060275493275,6.031620597980725,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,3.322464497796202,What is the best way to connect 3D printed parts?,\"I want to print a model of an animal cell.\n\nWhat I have so far: I managed to use different colors to print out the different parts of the cell.\nMy question is: what is the best way to connect plastic 3d printed parts?\nGlue? Melted plastic? I need it to have a strong connection and not very visible when used well, and preferable dries fast.\n\",TheNewHobbyist,\"For ABS I use a gel super glue (Loctite is my current favorite), it seems to slightly melt the ABS parts together and makes for a great bond. A slurry of old scrap ABS and acetone also works well, though I find that it will evaporate even if left in a closed mason jar over time. The small nozzle applicator and the fact it doesn't seem to evaporate makes super glue the better choice for me. \n\nThe gel super glue works \"\"OK\"\" for PLA but I've had parts fail after taking a small tumble. I just started using this acrylic cement for PLA. It cures very fast but seems to slightly melt the PLA in the same way the ABS options do.\n\nFor internal seams I like to put a bead of \"\"high performance\"\" hot glue over the seam. It's just a bit flexible and seems to do a good job taking drops. \n\nLastly I really like (but haven't mastered) friction welding parts together using a Dremel. Matt Griffin at MAKE Magazine did a great write up on the technique here.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n54,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ʇolɐǝz ǝɥʇ qoq,3.0576060275493275,6.031620597980725,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,3.322464497796202,What is the best way to connect 3D printed parts?,\"I want to print a model of an animal cell.\n\nWhat I have so far: I managed to use different colors to print out the different parts of the cell.\nMy question is: what is the best way to connect plastic 3d printed parts?\nGlue? Melted plastic? I need it to have a strong connection and not very visible when used well, and preferable dries fast.\n\",hroncok,\"For ABS print, I recommend acetone. It is not a glue, but it will dissolve the plastic a bit and if you apply it to both connecting parts and push them together, they will stay connected after the acetone dries. However, it does not dry very fast and you have to be careful not to destroy the object.\n\nFor PLA I usually use regular super glue (Cyanoacrylate).\n\",3.0411126502294303,0.0\n61,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kevin Morse,5.178744081378276,6.570640113019958,4.533938825782293,7.210942892030981,5.024356785862165,3.6250279219029085,Why do the corners of my ABS object lift off the bed?,\"I print ABS on a LulzBot Taz 5 and frequently have issues with the corners of objects lifting off the bed.\n\nMy extruder is at 230 °C and the bed is at 90 °C for the first layer and 100 °C for the rest of the layers.\n\nI have experimented with using ABS slurry (ABS + acetone) on the bed for increased adhesion, building a foam enclosure for the printer, and varying the fan speed. I have noticed the problem is more common the taller the parts are and the sharper the corner is.\n\nAdding ABS slurry helped for smaller parts (less than an inch tall) but with my more recent larger parts the adhesion to the bed was so good that the corners of the part lifting actually peeled the PEI tape off of the bed.\n\nI have tried using both a skirt and a brim with no change. The skirt stays on the bed, the brim gets pulled up with the corner.\n\",tbm0115,\"There are many different approaches to solving this issue and most of the answers already are spot-on. However, the fundamental reason for the \"\"warping\"\" is incorrect and inconsistent temperature across the material.\n\nIf there is too much fluctuation in the temperature across the object in this heated state can result in warping. The reason you see this mostly on the build plate is because the temperature of the first few layers of molten plastic vary much more against the build plate than against higher layers. Note that you can see additional warping mid-print using ABS and this can be a result of a draft or sudden drop in ambient temperature.\n\nSo, to help solve your problem, here are some suggestions (sorry if there are duplicates):\n\n\nCompletely enclose/seal your machine's build area to reduce (or eliminate if possible) draft and prevent the natural heat of the machine from escaping.\nIncrease the temperature on your build plate. I almost exclusively use ABS on my printer and I keep my HBP at about 112C. However, I live in the NW of the US, so my climate is naturally cooler than say Florida.\nAlternatively, try decreasing the nozzle temperature to a lower point within the ABS melting range. This will just shorten the gap between the inconsistencies in temperature across layers. It is typically better to print at lower temperatures if you can help it. Obviously there are differences in the filament, so you'll have to find that \"\"sweet spot\"\".\nEnsure your build plate is flat and your tape doesn't have bubbles. Your BP being flat should be a no brainer, but if your kapton tape (or whatever you use) has bubbles, your freshly printed plastic may not be getting the same temperature from the BP as the rest of your part. This is a bad thing as mentioned earlier.\nUse extra adhesion techniques such as \"\"ABS Glue\"\" (ABS w/ acetone) or even hairspray. This works about 80% of the time for me, but can make it a bit difficult when removing the parts off the BP.\n\n\",4.306142032796979,2.0769199823829045\n61,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kevin Morse,5.178744081378276,6.570640113019958,4.533938825782293,7.210942892030981,5.024356785862165,3.6250279219029085,Why do the corners of my ABS object lift off the bed?,\"I print ABS on a LulzBot Taz 5 and frequently have issues with the corners of objects lifting off the bed.\n\nMy extruder is at 230 °C and the bed is at 90 °C for the first layer and 100 °C for the rest of the layers.\n\nI have experimented with using ABS slurry (ABS + acetone) on the bed for increased adhesion, building a foam enclosure for the printer, and varying the fan speed. I have noticed the problem is more common the taller the parts are and the sharper the corner is.\n\nAdding ABS slurry helped for smaller parts (less than an inch tall) but with my more recent larger parts the adhesion to the bed was so good that the corners of the part lifting actually peeled the PEI tape off of the bed.\n\nI have tried using both a skirt and a brim with no change. The skirt stays on the bed, the brim gets pulled up with the corner.\n\",EvilTeach,\"Another approach is to put mouse ears on all the corner parts, that you clip off the print afterward.\n\nSee Mouse ears defeat corner curling monster.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n65,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Matt Clark,4.146747269907207,7.475745230029277,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.929104701733314,3.9014549590558922,\"When should I use a raft, when should I use a brim?\",\"Taken from the answer provided by @EricJohnson,\n\nWhen should I use a raft, and when should I use a brim? What advantages does each have over the other?\n\nRaft\n\n\nBrim\n\n\",Adam Davis,\"A raft helps when the part has few points of contact with the print bed, and doesn't therefore adhere well at points within and without the part.\n\nA brim helps when the part doesn't adhere well around the perimeter of the part.\n\nThere are very rare situations where you'll need both, but typically you'll only use one or the other.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n65,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Matt Clark,4.146747269907207,7.475745230029277,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.929104701733314,3.9014549590558922,\"When should I use a raft, when should I use a brim?\",\"Taken from the answer provided by @EricJohnson,\n\nWhen should I use a raft, and when should I use a brim? What advantages does each have over the other?\n\nRaft\n\n\nBrim\n\n\",Eric Johnson,\"A raft will allow for better adhesion for the whole print as the raft attaches to the printing surface and the print attaches to the raft. Rafts go all the way under the print and consist of multiple layers, whereas a brim is only 1 layer and on the outside of the print. Rafts are normally harder to remove than brims because of the increased contact with the print.\n\nFrom my own experiences, the brim does not help a lot with layer adhesion as it is only 1 layer. I normally use a raft when I need a nice looking 1st layer that is not on the bed or when there are not enough contact points.\n\",3.367452517504837,2.0769199823829045\n70,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Matt Clark,3.267423727073639,3.33123292709302,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,My print is warping: how can I ensure that it cools evenly?,\"My print is warping and I suspect it is because of uneven cooling.\n\nHow can ensure my print cools evenly? Should I put a fan on the bed? Will no fan and a tall skirt help?\n\nOr are my edges curling up for another reason?\n\",Adam Davis,\"Without more information we cannot address what is causing your edges to turn up. This can depend on the model being printed, the process, the material, the bed, and the method used to bond it to the bed.\n\nAs far as the initial question, a fan will most certainly ensure uneven cooling.\n\nThe middle of the print is, and will remain, the warmest. If you want the print to cool evenly, you'll need an enclosure to block out drafts and air currents, and you'll need to bring the heated bed temperature and enclosure temperature down slowly over a long period of time.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n233,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Matt Clark,4.993671754199731,5.794450732670528,2.7799718631987322,5.199501240805782,5.1118830730594205,3.884726419925141,How should I clean my extruder when changing materials?,\"I often switch my print material, i.e. ABS / PLA / Wood / Flex,\n\nHow can I best clean out my extruder between them to ensure I don't contaminate my next print?\n\",walter,\"eSun has a cleaning filament that extrudes at a wide range of temperatures. It may seem ridiculous to use filament that costs over $100 USD per kilo to purge the nozzle, but it's very convenient and in practice, you don't use much each time (it's sold in 100g packs). I'm still using some samples I received with some filament over a year ago.\n\nCold pulls will probably be more effective though (as described in another answer), they're just more effort. I usually use cold pulls with nylon when I want to clear out my nozzle, either as part of routine maintenance or when switching to plastics that are sensitive to contamination (usually PETG or ninjaflex). I usually use the cleaning filament when I want to change from a dark to a light or clear filament, especially if the new filament is expensive. Most of the time I just feed in enough of the new filament to purge out the old, with the temperature set to the max of the two.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n233,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Matt Clark,4.993671754199731,5.794450732670528,2.7799718631987322,5.199501240805782,5.1118830730594205,3.884726419925141,How should I clean my extruder when changing materials?,\"I often switch my print material, i.e. ABS / PLA / Wood / Flex,\n\nHow can I best clean out my extruder between them to ensure I don't contaminate my next print?\n\",tamarintech,\"If you feel you need to clean the nozzle the best approach is a cold pull. You can perform this procedure with many printers, however, you should seek advice from your printer manufacturer before attempting this process if you have any doubts.\n\nWith the previously filament still loaded and the tool head cold:\n\n\nBegin to raise the temperature of the tool to the printing temperature of the next filament you intend to load\nAs it begins to warm up perform any tasks you normally perform during filament unloading (open the idler, for example). You should not be fighting against the extruder drive gear or any other part of the tool during this process!\nWith a fair amount of pressure begin pulling on the filament\nThe old filament should eventually release from inside of the tool leaving the end of the filament roughly in a nice molded shape of the inside of the tool. Begin loading the next filament you intend to print and manually feed some filament through as the tool finishes heating\n\n\nAnything left over from the previous filament including pigment or other residue should be stuck to the end of the filament.\n\nYou can perform cold pulls as many times as you wish by loading new filament, extruding a small amount, letting it completely cool and repeating the steps.\n\",4.38115673424798,2.0769199823829045\n264,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Matt Clark,5.6307785389679434,7.135482501466637,2.7799718631987322,6.034324953675596,5.5595784343394685,4.54253360809867,When to use 1.75 mm vs 3 mm filament?,\"Why do we have two standard filament sizes, 1.75 mm and 3 mm? Does it really make a difference when printing? Or is the 1.75 mm just for smaller printers?\n\nIn what situations should I be using 1.75 mm?\n\nWhen should I be using 3 mm?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"There's no appreciable difference. Just use the filament that fits your particular printer.\n\nIf you don't yet have a printer, then I'd get one that uses 1.75 mm filament:\n\n\n1.75 mm is increasingly becoming the \"\"standard\"\", thus being easier to get. Some filaments are not available as 3 mm.\n1.75 mm filament allows for finer control, because feeding in 1 mm of filament corresponds to less plastic extruded.\n1.75 mm filament requires less force to extrude. Compressing 1.75 mm down to 0.3 mm takes less force than doing the same to 3 mm filament.\n\n\nHowever, the advantages are fairly minor. I don't see any reason to replace a functioning 3mm extruder with a 1.75 mm one (yet).\n\",4.764855562826578,2.0769199823829045\n264,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Matt Clark,5.6307785389679434,7.135482501466637,2.7799718631987322,6.034324953675596,5.5595784343394685,4.54253360809867,When to use 1.75 mm vs 3 mm filament?,\"Why do we have two standard filament sizes, 1.75 mm and 3 mm? Does it really make a difference when printing? Or is the 1.75 mm just for smaller printers?\n\nIn what situations should I be using 1.75 mm?\n\nWhen should I be using 3 mm?\n\",masteusz,\"There are a few factors to consider those two:\n\n3 mm\n\n\nMore rigid - easier to print with flexible plastics. I couldn't make my 1.75 mm printer print with NinjaFlex using standard bowden extruder.\nCan extrude faster\nQuality is less affected by changes in diameter - it is a concern mostly when using cheap plastics\n\n\n1.75 mm\n\n\nMore popular, easier to buy\nNeeds smaller extruder than 3 mm\nEasier to use with bowden tube\nMore precise when printing\n\n\",4.143478317956379,0.0\n475,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Matt Clark,4.451824357011064,6.967110430313415,0.0,7.443218576917029,4.620985695623129,2.488653845767225,What could be causing my y axis to slip?,\"Occasionally, while printing, my y axis will slip and the layer will, from that point forward, be shifted, ruining the print.\n\nWhat might be the causes of an axis slipping? I have tried cooling the motor which seemed to have been getting warm, and the belts are not too tight.\n\nThis does not happen with every print, and seems to be an intermittent problem. \n\nMy printer is a MendelMax RepRap, and the y axis is my moving bed.\n\",Swinders,\"I had a repeatable problem where my prints were shifting to the side after about 5mm. This was down to a loose z-axis guide rail that would come out of it's end support about 5mm into the print but appeared secure when the bed was set to it's initial position (my print head moves down). There was a grub screw hidden below a panel at the base of my printer, I'm not familiar with the build of the MendelMax so this may be different for you.\n\",0.0,0.0\n475,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Matt Clark,4.451824357011064,6.967110430313415,0.0,7.443218576917029,4.620985695623129,2.488653845767225,What could be causing my y axis to slip?,\"Occasionally, while printing, my y axis will slip and the layer will, from that point forward, be shifted, ruining the print.\n\nWhat might be the causes of an axis slipping? I have tried cooling the motor which seemed to have been getting warm, and the belts are not too tight.\n\nThis does not happen with every print, and seems to be an intermittent problem. \n\nMy printer is a MendelMax RepRap, and the y axis is my moving bed.\n\",Phap,\"Had Y axis stepping issues\n\nSolved the issue by correct pressure on the guide wheels on the Y-axis track.\n\nToo much pressure caused binding and the Y stepper motor to skip steps\n\nHope this helps some people \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n507,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Matt Clark,4.146747269907207,5.793874656976651,0.0,3.1880595895805834,4.620985695623129,4.312136817751601,Will I see a noticeable difference switching from a .4mm to a .3mm nozzle?,\"I currently print with a .4mm nozzle on my extruder, and my prints seem to come out fairly accurate; would I see much of a difference if I went to a .3mm?\n\nWhat are the pros and cons of larger and smaller nozzle sizes?\n\",tbm0115,\"My understanding is that the only difference is your range that your layer height can be. For example, the optimal layer heights for a 0.4mm nozzle fall between 0.1-0.3mm. So, we can assume a smaller nozzle will yield a lower range. Keep in mind that varying sizes in the nozzle could produce complications more prominently than with a standard size. Things such as ooze, clogging, and filament backup may occur with a smaller nozzle size if your slicing engine is not setup correctly.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n507,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Matt Clark,4.146747269907207,5.793874656976651,0.0,3.1880595895805834,4.620985695623129,4.312136817751601,Will I see a noticeable difference switching from a .4mm to a .3mm nozzle?,\"I currently print with a .4mm nozzle on my extruder, and my prints seem to come out fairly accurate; would I see much of a difference if I went to a .3mm?\n\nWhat are the pros and cons of larger and smaller nozzle sizes?\n\",Leo Ervin,\"1) Smaller nozzle advantage: sharper \"\"corners\"\" (higher X and Y resolution)\n\n2) Larger nozzle advantage: faster 3d printing (because you can print the shell faster as each perimeter can be thicker so you'll need less perimeters to be printed to get the same shell thickness. Same true for infill).\n\n3) Smaller nozzle disadvantage (varies, debatable): higher risk of clogging. There are of course other factors which can result in clogging, but this can also affect it as even finer particles in less quality filament can get stuck now.\n\n4) Smallel nozzle disadvantage: since less plastic can come out at a given duration of time, it means less speedy printing of larger layer heights, if at all possible.\n\nI feel like I should get back to (1) and explain why it is so.\nWhen companies market their 3d printer they usually talk about the layer height (the Z resolution) completely ignoring the X and Y. This makes sense for marketing. Luckily it is not hard to explain what is usually left out and what is important for one of the answers to your question on what are advantages of smaller nozzles:\n\nThe Z resolution depends on two main things:\n1) The stepper motor driver accuracy of your 3d printer's motherboard. Pretty much all are the same now. Claiming your 3d printer can print at 20 micron layer height doesn't say anything, pretty much any 3d printed today can.\n2) Nozzle/extruder quality, nozzle diameter. The latter surprisingly does not determine much. Because of how FFF/FMD 3d printing works, the perimeters of your 3d print can be way thinner than your nozzle diameter. This might sound odd but there's a simple explanation: the molten plastic coming out of the hotend is squished and stretched when the head moves. Because it is stretched, it can be made thinner as you increase how much it is squished. There's not much experimentation done on this and available online, only from personal experience I can say I can print perimeters 50% thinner than my 3mm nozzle. So I suppose if you wanted thinner perimeters than that, you would need to swap to a thinner nozzle.\nWhy would you want thinner perimeters? To get sharper corners or in other words better X and Y resolution for your 3d prints which is ignored by most unlike the overstated \"\"layer height\"\" (Z resolution).\nHere's an illustration to help you visualize how fatter perimeters and less sharp corners/edges on your 3d model result in \"\"lower X/Y resolution\"\" (the illustration is a 2d cutout, viewed from the top):\n\n\n\",3.9604314711224866,2.0769199823829045\n1292,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Matt Clark,4.707190134647046,6.131466753945354,4.9240077855353865,4.022883302450398,4.932097101757954,4.345449058359031,Should I enclose my 3D Printer?,\"I have a home built RepRap with all sides open..\n\nWould there be any advantage to enclosing the print area in acrylic?\n\",kamuro,\"It is hard to tell whether you personally should enclose your printer. However, you asked for the advantages and I will name some of them on which one can base a decision.\n\nA 3D printer enclosure\n\n\nhelps to keep the temperature of the whole print at controlled levels, if you use a heating element, thermocouple and pid regulator. This is one of the most direct uses of the enclosure, which can be achieved by almost no other means. One could sloppily say it does for the whole print what the heatbed does for the initial layers. Controlling the temperature can be beneficial for layer adhesion and can help against delamination problems. This can go as far as fixing cracks and complete delamination (Thanks to @J. Roibal for bringing these cracks to my attention in the comments)\nkeeps dangerous fumes controlled. Here you can find a scientific study about it, published in Atmospheric Environment 79, titled 'ultrafine particle emission from desktop 3D printers, on exactly that topic. You can embed a filter with a fan in your housing to filter the air from all dangerous fumes that are created when melting certain plastic types. It could just circulate the air inside the chamber or get the filtered air out of the housing. This is another use which cannot be achieved otherwise (afaik).\ncan keep humidity away from your printer. This is helpful for filaments that attract water (and don't print well under that circumstance). This should be realized separately for stored filament, too, adding some silica gel to regulate humidity. (Thanks to @Obmerk Kronen in the comments)\nminimizes losses of your heatbed. This happens in at least two ways, - the heated bed will also heat the surroundings, that is the inside of the enclosure. By raising its temperature, the temperature difference and hence heat loss is minimized. Also wind, introducing high fluctuations in the transfered (i.e. lost) heat is minimized. In that sense, it also\nshuts out any wind for print temperature stability. Also dust and particles that could be blown on the print will be shut out (thanks to the addition of dust/particles: @Obmerk Kronen). This is a benefit that comes without having a heated chamber or filter.\nhelps to keep the printer clean in between use. Your axes will thank you being free from dust.\nreduces smell and noise. If you use the printer in you living area, that alone can be a great benefit.\nmakes sure that your printer is safe during storage, nothing will fall on it.\ncan look pretty nice and add to the style of your printer, even if selfmade ;-) \n\n\nThere are obviously also downsides, as: connected work/money to make it, increased space used for the printer, and, if not well made for that purpose (which it should be), increased difficulty in repairs and maintenance of the printer itself (i.e. to get the printer out of the enclosure).\n\",4.227070557464731,2.0769199823829045\n1292,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Matt Clark,4.707190134647046,6.131466753945354,4.9240077855353865,4.022883302450398,4.932097101757954,4.345449058359031,Should I enclose my 3D Printer?,\"I have a home built RepRap with all sides open..\n\nWould there be any advantage to enclosing the print area in acrylic?\n\",StarWind0,\"People add a \"\"passive heated chamber\"\" when they are printing in ABS. However I personally think the best reason to have a custom chamber is so you can add an air filter. Adding an air filter will reduce your exposure to fine air particulates. It is generally considered a bad idea to breath in particles from plastic.\n\nFor PLA you will not want an air chamber. If you want to do an air scrubber they you will need air input to avoid the heat chamber from getting hot.\n\nOn that note as we see in the z18, PLA can benefit from an Active heat chamber, but you will have to figure out what the optimal temp is.\n\",0.0,0.0\n78,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,HDE 226868,3.767809650974757,5.338819602397231,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.306096197889172,How can I stop my print bed tape from sticking to the filament?,\"I made a test print for a small gear (~ 1.5 inches in diameter) a few months ago, with a hole through the center. On the first try, the filament (ABS) fused to the print bed, meaning that I had to spend ten minutes scraping off material to loosen it. One solution to this is to use painter's tape spread across the print bed.\n\nThis yielded a good print during the next run. The problem with this method was that some of the tape subsequently fused to the backside of the gear; it was so tight that I had to discard the prototype. Multiple varieties of tape made no difference.\n\nIs there a way to continue using this tape without having it fuse to the filament?\n\",tbm0115,\"This can highly depend on the slicer you are using. Some software such as Makerware and Slic3r allow you to adjust the settings for the first raft/part layers. I might suggest adjusting this \"\"Z0\"\" point to about 1/4-1/2 of your layer height. Essentially the first layer (or two) will not adhere as well.\n\nThis is just one suggestion of many solutions. Here are some other variables I could think of off-hand:\n\n\nType of build plate tape (ie masking, painters, kapton, etc.)\nType of material. I've noticed that PLA is very stubborn if you let the part completely cool after printing and that it's much easier to remove the part from the build plate/raft right after it's complete.\nType of build plate. Are you applying too much heat (if you have a heated bp) for the material such as PLA?\nTry lowering your layer height. This will ensure that each strand does not have too much surface area and therefore less chance that it will create a vacuum affect with the build plate. This can, however, result in a worse surface finish.\n\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n78,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,HDE 226868,3.767809650974757,5.338819602397231,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.306096197889172,How can I stop my print bed tape from sticking to the filament?,\"I made a test print for a small gear (~ 1.5 inches in diameter) a few months ago, with a hole through the center. On the first try, the filament (ABS) fused to the print bed, meaning that I had to spend ten minutes scraping off material to loosen it. One solution to this is to use painter's tape spread across the print bed.\n\nThis yielded a good print during the next run. The problem with this method was that some of the tape subsequently fused to the backside of the gear; it was so tight that I had to discard the prototype. Multiple varieties of tape made no difference.\n\nIs there a way to continue using this tape without having it fuse to the filament?\n\",DJ bigdawg,\"One thing that I do to keep it from sticking to the tape. Is to add glue from a glue stick down on the building pad in an even coat on top of the tape.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n215,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,HDE 226868,4.78385405467542,7.4409269431516,1.7539669625835614,5.646830619998737,3.749318730431847,2.6553159206313057,How can I best clean the print bed after a print?,\"I've occasionally had issues with excess filament residue getting stuck to the print bed. There are ways to prevent this, but sometimes even these precautions aren't enough. Over time, residue can build up. I've observed this in some printers, though not others.\n\nAre there any techniques to best clean print beds? In the past, I've used various typical cleaning supplies, with different degrees of success. However, I don't know if this will lead to damage to the printer over time.\n\nThe printer I'm using has a glass print bed, which I occasionally partially cover with blue painter's tape during printing.\n\",EvilTeach,\"I use a razor blade scraper to get stuff off that is sticking.\nPriory to printing I heat and level the build plate, then wipe it down with alcohol to get any greasey fingerprints off of it.\n\nMy Scraper\n\",0.0,0.0\n215,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,HDE 226868,4.78385405467542,7.4409269431516,1.7539669625835614,5.646830619998737,3.749318730431847,2.6553159206313057,How can I best clean the print bed after a print?,\"I've occasionally had issues with excess filament residue getting stuck to the print bed. There are ways to prevent this, but sometimes even these precautions aren't enough. Over time, residue can build up. I've observed this in some printers, though not others.\n\nAre there any techniques to best clean print beds? In the past, I've used various typical cleaning supplies, with different degrees of success. However, I don't know if this will lead to damage to the printer over time.\n\nThe printer I'm using has a glass print bed, which I occasionally partially cover with blue painter's tape during printing.\n\",Russ Campbell,\"I use hair spray directly on my glass bed , then just a little bit of rubbing alcohol on a small piece of paper towel to clean it...that removes all surface materials... I don't use tape any more... Russ\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n223,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,HDE 226868,2.8153892694839717,5.310508312461782,0.0,4.670422881206417,4.091740895605862,3.3504271193088333,How thin can I make the wall of a pipe?,\"For a science project, I'm 3D-printing some custom pipes and tubes to regulate the flow of gas (a combination of ethyl alcohol and water vapor) through an apparatus. They need to be pretty small, as the entire experiment is designed on a small scale. I'd also like the use a little filament as possible.\n\nHow thin can I make the walls of these pipes and tubes before either they collapse or gas leaks out? I know that's possibly an engineering issue, but I'd also need to take resolution into consideration. Ideally, the pipes would be about two centimeters in diameter, possibly a little larger or a little smaller in some parts. I'd most likely use ABS, but PLA is my backup in case there's some unforeseen reaction between the gas and the pipes.\n\nThe printer I'm using is an FDM printer, a version of the MakerBot Replicator.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The thinnest wall your printer can print is determined by its nozzle size, and will be a little thicker than that nozzle size.\n\nA great challenge when dealing with thin, hollow cylinders is that the cross-section has very little surface area and it can delaminate easily, especially if the tube is long.\n\nYou could try printing the tube with a very thick extrusion with, and using only a single perimeter. That would give better gas-tightness and layer adhesion than two, thinner perimeters, but it may turn out too fragile for your application. In that case, you'll need to print additional perimeters. Sticking to thicker extrusion widths would still be beneficial.\n\nAt a two centimeter diameter I'd say the single perimeter has a decent chance of working if you handle them gingerly.\n\",3.5068404193471867,0.0\n223,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,HDE 226868,2.8153892694839717,5.310508312461782,0.0,4.670422881206417,4.091740895605862,3.3504271193088333,How thin can I make the wall of a pipe?,\"For a science project, I'm 3D-printing some custom pipes and tubes to regulate the flow of gas (a combination of ethyl alcohol and water vapor) through an apparatus. They need to be pretty small, as the entire experiment is designed on a small scale. I'd also like the use a little filament as possible.\n\nHow thin can I make the walls of these pipes and tubes before either they collapse or gas leaks out? I know that's possibly an engineering issue, but I'd also need to take resolution into consideration. Ideally, the pipes would be about two centimeters in diameter, possibly a little larger or a little smaller in some parts. I'd most likely use ABS, but PLA is my backup in case there's some unforeseen reaction between the gas and the pipes.\n\nThe printer I'm using is an FDM printer, a version of the MakerBot Replicator.\n\",EvilTeach,\"When printing thin cylinders vertically,\n\n\nSlow print speed, to avoid rocking the model.\nno shells, just one nozzle thick, so you don't need fill. Fill can easily rock the print.\nPrint at least 2 at a time at the smallest layer thickness you can do. This causes the hot end to have to move away from one cylinder to get to the next. This gives each cylinder layer some extra time too cool and harden before the next layer goes on. I generally print .1 or .05 for cylinders.\nYour slicer may have a setting that tells it to wait between layers so the plastic has more time to cool. I think the setting is called ORBIT on mine.\n\n\nConsider following up with an acetone vapor bath to help seal the pores in the print.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n253,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,HDE 226868,4.626593049438165,5.216447720042709,0.0,4.670422881206417,5.024356785862165,3.585260288142579,Can I mix ABS and PLA when recycling filament?,\"I'm thinking of recycling some filament from a couple of recently failed prints. I can reuse them in the future for basic prototypes, so I'm not concerned with whatever weird mixture of colors come out (they are of a few different colors).\n\nThe thing is, I have both PLA and ABS, in small quantities. I originally intended to simply use each one separately, but it occurred to me that they could be mixed.\n\nIf I recycle PLA and ABS together into one strand of filament, will there be any negative side effects (e.g. reduced strength)?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"This is not a good idea. Both filaments have different melting points, that of ABS being much higher than that of PLA. To melt the ABS you have to heat the plastic to the point where the PLA starts to degrade.\n\",4.306142032796979,2.0769199823829045\n253,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,HDE 226868,4.626593049438165,5.216447720042709,0.0,4.670422881206417,5.024356785862165,3.585260288142579,Can I mix ABS and PLA when recycling filament?,\"I'm thinking of recycling some filament from a couple of recently failed prints. I can reuse them in the future for basic prototypes, so I'm not concerned with whatever weird mixture of colors come out (they are of a few different colors).\n\nThe thing is, I have both PLA and ABS, in small quantities. I originally intended to simply use each one separately, but it occurred to me that they could be mixed.\n\nIf I recycle PLA and ABS together into one strand of filament, will there be any negative side effects (e.g. reduced strength)?\n\",Alex Sky,\"Simply put, PLA and ABS should not be mixed into a filament.\n\nThe most common issues most printers experience, such as delayering, warping, etc., are addressed completely differently based on the material you are working with. There are many examples of this, and I will attempt to go over some of the basic ones.\n\nYou will have extreme difficulty getting proper layer adhesion. Assuming you have a level, flat, semi-coarse (helps) surface for the first layer, the recommended heated bed temperature is 70C for PLA. With ABS, you will experience warping by the 5th layer at that temperature. ABS prefers 110C for a heated bed, and 80C for a heated chamber (personal experience for most reliable results).\nNext issue is going to be delayering and stringing. There is no happy medium! Matter of fact, the number of issues even attempting this is almost too many to list. The quality will be complete garbage. On one hand you will have delayering, warping, and jamming of the ABS when set to PLA specs, and stringing, leaking, etc., when set to ABS specs.\n\nI hope this helps.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n259,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,HDE 226868,3.0576060275493275,2.9362955533623216,0.0,3.1880595895805834,4.091740895605862,3.7272071097011072,Does the material a bed is made out of affect the cooling time of a part?,\"Let's say I print a part out of ABS and wait for it to cool. I could theoretically do this with several copies of the same printer, modified to use print beds of different compositions.\n\nWill the material a bed is made out of affect how long it takes a part to cool?\n\",tbm0115,\"Assuming you are meaning the build plate and not confusing it with a printed raft, yes, different materials for the build plate will have different cooling rates. I don't know the values of hand, but a Google search can get you to a formula to calculate how long a certain size build plate of a given material type should roughly take to cool. (I'm using the mobile app right now, so I'll have to get back to this answer later to give links and more details)\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n259,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,HDE 226868,3.0576060275493275,2.9362955533623216,0.0,3.1880595895805834,4.091740895605862,3.7272071097011072,Does the material a bed is made out of affect the cooling time of a part?,\"Let's say I print a part out of ABS and wait for it to cool. I could theoretically do this with several copies of the same printer, modified to use print beds of different compositions.\n\nWill the material a bed is made out of affect how long it takes a part to cool?\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"What bed material cools faster?\n\nI found an extensive list which relates various materials to their thermal conductivity, k [W/mK]; the lower thermal conductivity, the better the material insulates, and the slower the print bed will resist changes in temperature - both heating up, and cooling down. \n\nHere are the thermal conductivity for some common materials for 3d printer beds:\n\nAluminum 205\nGlass 1.05\nAcrylic 0.2\nAir 0.024 (for reference)\n\n\nThere is also the matter of thermal capacity, but I will not go into that right now (need to do some research myself first!).\n\nWill bed material affect cooling time?\n\nBed material, I believe, is not necessarily related to print cooldown time: it depends on the situation, such as whether we are discussing cooldown during or after printing, and if the bed is heated or not. \n\n\nIf you are not using a heated bed, I believe the bed material doesn't matter at all.\nWith a heated bed while printing, only the first dozen layers or so are probably affected by the rising heat sufficiently that it affects the printing process.\nWith a heated bed after printing, the thermal characteristics of the bed will determine how quickly the print cools (and thus can be removed).\n\n\nAlso remember that other physical properties, such as flatness (both cold and during heating) of the bed material is vital for successful prints, and that not all materials can tolerate heating equally well! \n\",3.5068404193471867,2.0769199823829045\n303,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,HDE 226868,4.356564969431519,3.759329766816229,0.0,4.022883302450398,4.83456264223006,4.592941926651472,How is 3D printing done in space?,\"This article states that 3D printing has been accomplished in outer space, on the International Space Station.\n\nI'm curious as to how this works differently from 3D printing on Earth. Are there any extra measures that needed to be taken to ensure that the filament would be correctly extruded onto the print bed, or during other steps?\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"Most likely, the 3D-printers used on ISS does not incorporate some fundamental difference that allow them to print in zero gravity.\n\nSome people over at 3Dprint.com raised a very similar question, and figured that when turning their 3D-printer upside down and on it's side:\n\n\n there’s not really much difference at all. It’s quite interesting to see how the orientation has little effect on the quality.\n\n\nOne of the early 3D-printer models - the Bukito printer - demonstrated that their printer was so portable it even could print on the move, and upside down.\n\nIn other words, some consumer 3D printers already print upside down, and so they would probably print in zero gravity as well!\n\n(That's the short story anyway. Have a look at Ryan's post, who gives a great description of the more intricate parts of space printing!) \n\",4.143478317956379,2.0769199823829045\n303,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,HDE 226868,4.356564969431519,3.759329766816229,0.0,4.022883302450398,4.83456264223006,4.592941926651472,How is 3D printing done in space?,\"This article states that 3D printing has been accomplished in outer space, on the International Space Station.\n\nI'm curious as to how this works differently from 3D printing on Earth. Are there any extra measures that needed to be taken to ensure that the filament would be correctly extruded onto the print bed, or during other steps?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"The first big space-specific issue is actually air quality. You can't just open a window to air out the molten-ABS smell from the ISS! \n\nFFF printers put out fumes and nanoparticles. In a space station, the same air gets recycled over and over, and the air purification systems have a specific set of contaminants that they are optimized for, as well as a design capacity for air turnover and chemical removal rates that won't be adjusted just because somebody's printing a space-ratchet today. Protecting cabin air quality is a huge design factor for any experiment that goes into space.\n\nThe Made in Space printing experiments on the ISS to date were performed in one of the vacuum experiment chambers, so any unfiltered fumes (or fire flare-ups) could be vented directly to space if required. In the long run, this isn't going to work -- other experiments may need the vacuum chamber, or \"\"production\"\" printers may be too large to fit. So the printer needs to have its own internal air purification system. \n\nAnother MAJOR design constraint is launch survival. Rocket payloads must be designed for extreme g-forces without 1) damage, or 2) significant internal shifting of mass which would affect the payload center of gravity.\n\nTotal payload weight is also quite important here: lifting mass to low Earth orbit is EXPENSIVE. \n\nSurprisingly, the microgravity environment itself isn't that big of a deal. Molten plastic is highly viscous and pretty much stays where you put it long enough to solidify, as long as it's sticking to something. But two impacts do come to mind. \n\n\nFirst, an unsecured filament spool will try to unwind itself. Gravity won't provide the contact friction we usually rely on to keep spools from bird's-nesting. (Think about it: a tightly-wound spool is literally a giant coil-spring.) \nSecond, heat flows are different in microgravity -- you can't rely on passive convection to cool the print or the motors. Accommodations must be made for sufficient forced airflow and heat-sinking on anything that requires cooling. And that includes the enclosure itself, since, as mentioned above, the print chamber must be sealed up tight for air quality control. \n\n\nFinally, reliability is critical. Amazon doesn't deliver to the ISS (yet). Even a single stripped screw may take the printer out of commission for months until a replacement part can be fit into an upcoming supply launch. Having the printer catch on fire because something shorted would be catastrophic.\n\nSo, really, it's all about making a printer robust enough to make it up there, operate safely, and never break. Printing upside-down is trivial in comparison. \n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n81,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Eric Johnson,4.255155677057378,6.140382147477164,0.0,5.646830619998737,4.240216107868139,3.206343760378365,Safety precautions when using acetone,\"Acetone can be used to smooth ABS prints. What safety precautions should be taken during its use?\n\",HDE 226868,\"There are a few main safety precautions you should consider.\n\n\nMake sure the area is well-ventilated. Acetone is flammable. A buildup of acetone gas could quickly get concentrated, meaning that a single spark could lead to disaster. Using a fan is good; angle it towards an open window. This is also to prevent exposure to acetone because of its toxicity.\nBe prepared to fight a fire. Should vapor ignite, you may need to fight the fire. If it is large enough, then you should clearly evacuate the area. If it appears to be small, use dry chemical powder to snuff out the fire. Alcohol foam, water spray, and/or fog may be used on slightly larger fires. Acetone is not likely to cause a large inferno to rip through the building. But there's always the chance of a small fire. Be careful.\nCreate a vapor chamber. This is another way to stop a potential fire from spreading. It can also reduce contamination.\nWear gloves. This can minimize any potential transfer toxic effects. However, skin exposure is unlikely to cause major issues.\n\n\nAcetone is toxic, as I mentioned before, but it is not highly toxic. Exposure via the eyes and nose/mouth is the main risk. Skin effects may occur (e.g. mild irritation), but they are minor and generally arise only after long-term exposure (hence the recommendation of gloves in some cases).\n\nAcetone exposure is only a serious problem when a person is repeatedly exposed to levels greater than 1,000 ppm (severe effects only arise at much higher levels). It seems unlikely, given a proper ventilation system, that this will be an issue\n\nIn addition to all this, basic safety precautions such as wearing a ventilator mask and goggles should definitely be taken. When working with any such chemicals with the potential for bodily harm, these should absolutely be used.\n\",3.6340916038470805,2.0769199823829045\n81,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Eric Johnson,4.255155677057378,6.140382147477164,0.0,5.646830619998737,4.240216107868139,3.206343760378365,Safety precautions when using acetone,\"Acetone can be used to smooth ABS prints. What safety precautions should be taken during its use?\n\",user3418765,\"Repeated exposure to acetone can lead to the skin becoming sensitised, which means that in the future it will become overly irritated at the slightest contact.\n\nOn a more mundane note, it is an excellent degreaser and dries your skin something rotten. And then your fingertips can split and take days or weeks to close up, hurting in the meantime.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n84,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Eric Johnson,4.993671754199731,5.513206190869961,0.0,5.199501240805782,4.731113485304429,4.076426832443242,Does filament have to be stored in an airtight environment?,\"For standard ABS and PLA filament, most distributors recommend storing the filament in an airtight bag. Does not doing this actually make print quality worse? I have left mine in the open for a year and have had no noticeable problems.\n\",walter,\"It makes a difference where I live, and I'm not in a particularly humid climate (California). When printing with wet filament, you'll sometimes hear it popping and see steam coming out of the extruder (it's usually only this extreme with nylon). With most other filaments, when they're wet, the extruded filament will have small bubbles in it and the surface finish of the parts will be rougher, with breaks in the layer lines. It can also lead to more oozing and stringing. Air print a few centimeters of filament and look at it closely to see if there's any bubbles, if not, it's probably dry enough. Whether the filament absorbs enough water to be noticeable in a few hours, in a day, or in a week depends a lot on the filament (and I assume the humidity too). I'm mostly noticed problems with nylon, ABS, and NinjaFlex, less with PLA and PETG (though I avoid leaving any filament out for more than a day).\n\nIf you're not seeing any difference between, then I wouldn't worry about it. Storing filament dry is a hassle.\n\",4.0548168669725735,2.0769199823829045\n84,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Eric Johnson,4.993671754199731,5.513206190869961,0.0,5.199501240805782,4.731113485304429,4.076426832443242,Does filament have to be stored in an airtight environment?,\"For standard ABS and PLA filament, most distributors recommend storing the filament in an airtight bag. Does not doing this actually make print quality worse? I have left mine in the open for a year and have had no noticeable problems.\n\",HDE 226868,\"Humidity may be the problem.\n\nHumidity tends to degrade filament, making it weaker. If you leave a coil of filament out, over time it will be exposed to humidity. I have yet to hear of this happening over a short period of time - the real threat comes if you leave it out for weeks or months - but it can happen nonetheless.\n\nContamination with other materials is possible but unlikely. The odds of some sort of impurity developing from nearby particles is extremely low unless the filament is actively exposed to some other material.\n\nIn most cases, though, things should be just fine.\n\",3.2133663407215876,0.0\n132,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Eric Johnson,3.452496054252184,4.760253750718885,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,1.878685800062712,How can I set the 1st layer after a raft in Slic3r to print at 1st layer speed,\"When you add a raft in Slic3r, the first layer of the raft prints at the first layer speed. After the raft is finished, the first layer of the print prints at the standard speed. How can I make the first layer of the actual print slow down to the first layer speed?\n\",kareem,\"You shouldn't need to. The purpose of a slower first layer is to help with need adhesion. With a raft the first layer of the model is printing on the raft so it can go at regular speeds.\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n132,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Eric Johnson,3.452496054252184,4.760253750718885,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,1.878685800062712,How can I set the 1st layer after a raft in Slic3r to print at 1st layer speed,\"When you add a raft in Slic3r, the first layer of the raft prints at the first layer speed. After the raft is finished, the first layer of the print prints at the standard speed. How can I make the first layer of the actual print slow down to the first layer speed?\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"This is still work in progress, and here is what I have so far, but first:\n\nA useful alternative for similar problems:\n\nA problem very similar to this would be to use different settings for different parts of a model in Slic3r. For most settings, this can be achieved through modifier meshes.\n\nPost processing scripts:\n\nAs far as I know, Slic3r does not give you the option of setting the speed of the first layer after a raft directly, but they do allow you to run post processing scripts; that is, to automatically run a set of operations - programmed by you - on the g-code output.\n\nAlthough far from trivial, you can in theory make a program that runs through the output g-code, adjusts the settings to your preference, and then saves it again at the target destination.\n\nTuning overall printer speed through g-code:\n\nAs it turns out, there is a simple g-code command that sets the overall speed of your printer's operation:\n\nM220 S[some number] ; see the link above for compatible firmware\n\n\nA newsletter from Reprapwold explains that:\n\n\n For example M220 S50 will reduce the speed to 50%\n of the original sliced G-code. If you want to hurry your print to the finish in time\n for dinner, use M220 S200, to print twice as fast (200%)\n\n\nIn other words, just like some printers allow you the change speed mid-print, you can use the M220 command to override the current speed used, either through a user interface such as PrintRun, or by fiddling with the original g-code itself.\n\nManipulating the g-code output to adjust speed settings:\n\nThe easiest way to achieve our goal would be to manually manipulate the output g-code file through a text editor, and insert our M220 command in appropriate places:\n\n\nSet M220 S50 just before the first perimeter layer (after the raft's interface layer), to slow down the first layer of the actual model.\nSet M220 S100 sometime after the first perimeter layer, to resume the normal speed settings.\n\n\nIn order to do this, though, we need to be able to distinguish these two points in the g-code output.\n\nDistinguishing insertion points:\n\nSlic3r offers a setting under Print Settings -> Output options -> Verbose G-code that - when enabled - inserts written comments all throughout the g-code files generated. \n\nIf one inspects a g-code file outputted for a model with raft, one will find the comment:\n\n; move to first perimeter point <- lets call this A\n\n\nand \n\n; move to next layer (x) <- lets call this B\n\n\nlittered several places throughout the gcode. \n\nIt is under my impression that the first occurrence of comment A happens right after the raft is finished, and before the actual model is being printed, while the first occurrence of comment B succeeding comment A can be used to set the speed back to normal.\n\nIt should be noted, however, that the comments in the output g-code does not seem fully consistent, and I would therefore not recommend anyone to automate this logic into a script without possibly finding other, more reliable breakpoints, and thoroughly verify these through several different models. \n\nI have not looked into the details of writing an automatic script for this task as of yet.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n172,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Eric Johnson,1.726248027126092,4.597516961744042,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Printing copyrighted objects as a print shop for a customer,\"If a person is running a print shop where there are given STL files by customers, and they print the part for them, does the legality of the printed object matter? The customer would be supplying the file so the print shop would not know if it was legally obtained (or even what the object is). Could the print shop get in trouble with the law for this?\n\",Adam Davis,\"There are two aspects to this question that probably should be addressed separately. This is not legal advice and I'm not a lawyer, so consult with an experienced IP attorney.\n\nCopyright law may apply, and other IP laws, such as patents and trademarks, may apply. They each have different requirements and restrictions.\n\nNotably, IP law varies from country to country. WIPO has made significant inroads into regularizing IP law across many countries, but this answer will still focus on a US-centric reading of US IP law.\n\nCopyright law\n\nIt's already established that printed works, such as photographs, texts, and similar works will result in prosecution against the person and the company that the person outsourced the copying of the copyrighted work to. Attempt to copy a book or copyrighted photo at a paper copy shop and they will typically refuse to reduce their liability.\n\nEven if you show that you have rights to the work, through educational use laws, for instance, they may still refuse because they may be putting themselves in danger of a lawsuit by a particularly aggressive copyright holder.\n\nThis applies to 3D printing shops in a similar manner. If you don't know the source of the 3D model, and that the person has a right to the model, you may find yourself liable for copyright infringement. Even if you are sure, a lawsuit can financially ruin your business if it comes from a large corporation.\n\nPatents\n\nPatents apply even if you were unaware of them. So any model you print that contains patented techniques, technology, or concepts may also pull you, as the print shop, into a lawsuit for patent infringement. \n\nReducing liability\n\nA suitable contract with the person requesting the 3D print, as written by an IP lawyer, may reduce, but not eliminate, your liability. It won't completely absolve you of all responsibility, but may reduce your exposure to such lawsuits, and give you some leverage in court should someone prosecute you.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n269,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Eric Johnson,4.451824357011064,5.429960369391903,0.0,3.1880595895805834,4.620985695623129,4.503837230269701,Can 1.75 mm filament be used in a printer that takes 3 mm filament?,\"As an extension from this question, is there any reason that you would not be able to use 1.75 mm filament in a printer that takes 3mm filament? I know you would have to change the filament size in the slicing of prints but would there be any other problems?\n\nAlso, would using 1.75 mm filament be possible if the nozzle diameter was greater than 1.75 mm but less than 3 mm?\n\",Adam Davis,\"Typically an extruder and hot end are designed for one or the other, and cannot support the other without mechanical changes.\n\nThe extruder may not be able to grip a smaller diameter filament with enough force to assure even feeding and retraction.\n\nThe hot end, however, is much more complex. The filament has to be pushed with force into the melting zone, which means the filament has to slide along an area inside the hot end where the filament is plastic but still put pressure on the filament ahead of it.\n\nWhen you put filament into a hot end, the filament softens before the melt zone, but since the walls of the hot end are just barely larger than the filament it has no choice but to continue pressing down on the liquid filament below.\n\nWith a narrower diameter filament, though, the filament can heat, soften, then travel backwards along the sides of the hot end and cool in place, jamming the hot end, or at least preventing an even continuous flow of plastic.\n\nSome hot ends will accept a small Teflon tube that takes this space up and allows you to do this with fewer issues, and if you like to tinker you can experiment with this, but be prepared to learn a lot and fail a lot as you find out the hard lessons of hot end design.\n\nGenerally you should upgrade your entire extruder and hot end setup to the size you want to use.\n\",3.9604314711224866,2.0769199823829045\n269,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Eric Johnson,4.451824357011064,5.429960369391903,0.0,3.1880595895805834,4.620985695623129,4.503837230269701,Can 1.75 mm filament be used in a printer that takes 3 mm filament?,\"As an extension from this question, is there any reason that you would not be able to use 1.75 mm filament in a printer that takes 3mm filament? I know you would have to change the filament size in the slicing of prints but would there be any other problems?\n\nAlso, would using 1.75 mm filament be possible if the nozzle diameter was greater than 1.75 mm but less than 3 mm?\n\",tjb1,\"\nIt may work for a short time but you're going to fill the melt chamber quickly and possibly overflow to a point where the filament isn't constrained causing a messy jam. All the molten plastic will likely flow backwards to a point where the diameter isn't 3mm any longer (probably next to your drive gear) but depending on the length it may just flow up, cool down and jam the extruder.\nNo, the filament would just pass through unheated and not do anything.\n\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n383,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Eric Johnson,4.626593049438165,4.646992377627676,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,3.322464497796202,Filament extrudes at an angle,\"On one of the nozzles on my printer, the filament comes out at a 45 degree angle. It seems that this causes problems with adhesion to the bed and overall quality.\n\n\nWhat caused this problem? \nHow do I fix it? \nHow do I prevent it from\nhappening in the future?\n\n\",TheNewHobbyist,\"I've personally had this happen when I had a minor clog in my nozzle. \n\nMy first steps to fix this would be:\n\n\nMake sure the exterior of your nozzle is clean. I've had bits of plastic pull at the extruding filament and change it's direction.\nAttempt a \"\"cold pull\"\" or \"\"atomic pull\"\". On my Replicator 2 I do this by removing the extruder motor, heating up the hot end, manually pushing a length of filament through the nozzle, letting it cool slightly and tugging the filament (and hopefully the clog) out of the nozzle.\n\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n383,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Eric Johnson,4.626593049438165,4.646992377627676,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,3.322464497796202,Filament extrudes at an angle,\"On one of the nozzles on my printer, the filament comes out at a 45 degree angle. It seems that this causes problems with adhesion to the bed and overall quality.\n\n\nWhat caused this problem? \nHow do I fix it? \nHow do I prevent it from\nhappening in the future?\n\n\",Leo Ervin,\"You very likely have partial clog in your hotend (the side which is clogged is the angle the extruding filament bends to) or have some plastic somehow stuck on the nozzle surface which the extruding plastic almost sticks to, like two droplets of water merging into one.\n\nIf its the latter, clean the hotend. It's easier to remove the plastic on it while its hot and soft, but don't burn yourself.\n\nIf it's a clog, that's more complicated.\nFirst, you can make sure if it is indeed a clog or not by extruding into the air and measuring the wire with a caliper.\nIf it's thinner than it should be and your slicer settings are fine, then its a clog.\n\nWays to get rid of clog:\n\n1) Replace the nozzle with a new one.\n\n2) Break the clog with a sharp wire.\n\n3) Take the hotend off and clean the nozzle with acetone (\"\"acetone bath\"\").\n\n4) Blow torch on a removed nozzle. Dangerous thing to do for some but it works. If you're not confident or experienced to do this and the previous two solutions don't help, then go with option 1.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n981,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Eric Johnson,1.726248027126092,5.54190771452954,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,\"Printer randomly stops, Is the power supply bad?\",\"I have a prusa i3 with Mendel firmware and a RAMPS board. Recently it has been randomly stopping during prints. The LCD screen will lock up, the print will stop, and the heating elements will turn off. Pressing the reset button on the RAMPS restarts the system and it works fine.\n\nIn addition to stopping during prints, it has also frozen up while just sitting while on.\n\nMy first thought is the power supply (12V 30A) is going bad, but is there anything else I should check before I buy a new one and replace it?\n\nUpdate:\n\nI replaced the power supply with a new one, and the printer did not stop and completed a print. I am voting to close the question.\n\",nscan,\"It could be several things.\n\nYour ramps board is overheating or has to much load on it. If you're not cooling the ramps board adding a fan may help the issue. \n\nI know Robo3D had this issue and started shipping with a fan to cool the ramps board.\n\nThe ramps/arduino board could be faulty, the firmware may have gotten corrupted or the current version has a bug in the code.\n\nIf you are not printing from the sdcard on the lcd controller and using software through a usb connection, that computer may be causing the issue as well.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n981,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Eric Johnson,1.726248027126092,5.54190771452954,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,\"Printer randomly stops, Is the power supply bad?\",\"I have a prusa i3 with Mendel firmware and a RAMPS board. Recently it has been randomly stopping during prints. The LCD screen will lock up, the print will stop, and the heating elements will turn off. Pressing the reset button on the RAMPS restarts the system and it works fine.\n\nIn addition to stopping during prints, it has also frozen up while just sitting while on.\n\nMy first thought is the power supply (12V 30A) is going bad, but is there anything else I should check before I buy a new one and replace it?\n\nUpdate:\n\nI replaced the power supply with a new one, and the printer did not stop and completed a print. I am voting to close the question.\n\",Luca van Straaten,\"I had the same thing, the printer was not heating the nozzle anymore after starting the print. I fixed this by reinstalling the firmware.\n\nIt could also be that your stepper drivers are overheating. you can add a fan to cool them.\n\nThe SD card could be bad, maybe try an other card or another .gcode file.\n\nIt is probably not your power supply, a 30A power supply is more than enough, but you can measure the volts on the power supply while the printer is running, if it is around 12V it is probably alright.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3068,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Eric Johnson,2.528907649931287,4.708782698698613,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Does a 5 axis 3D printer have any benefits over a regular 3 axis printer?,\"5AxisMaker has a 5 axis CNC/3D printer combo machine. I understand what the benefits of 5 axis are for CNC machines, but are there any benefits for 3D printing. In this video they show the printer printing on an angle, but this could have been done with just linear layers.\n\nWould there be any cases where a 5 axis printer would preform better than a 3 axis printer?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"One aspect of having this level of control with 3d printing of a model is the removal of the need for supports and the attendant post-processing. In the case of the model shown in the video, some effects are created by printing the continents in a conformal manner that would otherwise be impossible with conventional 3d printing. Cosmetically, the results of the \"\"5d\"\" printer are superior in this example.\n\nThere would also be some structural benefit for models with high organic content, that is curves and bulges, as opposed to orthogonal designs. Even with orthogonal designs, one can achieve stronger parts with cross-layered plastic in all directions, rather than being limited by x and y filament layers.\n\nI see on the web site that one can exchange tool heads as well. One could print a 3d model, layering the filament on all the surfaces, then use a tool head change to a milling bit and smooth the surface under CAD control. Alternatively, one could use foam or wood and mill a model shape to be covered with a 3d printed material.\n\nConsidering the relative novelty of this product, it's likely that many aspects of the creative utility have yet to be discovered!\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n3068,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Eric Johnson,2.528907649931287,4.708782698698613,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Does a 5 axis 3D printer have any benefits over a regular 3 axis printer?,\"5AxisMaker has a 5 axis CNC/3D printer combo machine. I understand what the benefits of 5 axis are for CNC machines, but are there any benefits for 3D printing. In this video they show the printer printing on an angle, but this could have been done with just linear layers.\n\nWould there be any cases where a 5 axis printer would preform better than a 3 axis printer?\n\",user802599,\"Slicing prints for printing in 5 Axis is not going to be simple with the current software. If you look at the web site for the 5AxisMaker you can see they are using Algorithmic modeling software (Grasshopper). You would probably need to buy this as well and then spend a decent amount of time learning how to use this software as well if you were going to try and take advantage of the 5th Axis for 3D printing. \n\nI have only seen Grasshopper used for 3D printing and 5 Axis used in research papers. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3414,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Eric Johnson,2.1782824847157594,3.4245901840942934,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,What slicer settings would produce the strongest part?,\"If a part is wanted to be made the strongest possible, what slicer settings should be used? \n\n\n3-5 shells vs all shells, no infill? \n100% infill vs some other % infill?\nThin layer height vs thick layer height?\nAny other relevant settings?\n\n\",darth pixel,\"If your real question is what would be the strongest then I say - the solid would be the strongest - no doubt.\n\nBut if the question is: \n\n\nwhat be the strongest in comparison to weight or\nwhat is the strongest in comparison to the cost (amount of material)\n\n\nthen these are good questions!\n\nYou can of course find many tutorials and comparisons on the net and there will be many answers - which all of them could be good/bad ;)\n\nIf these are your questions then instead of simple answer you can ask more questions like:\n\n\nin which orientation or\nfor what purpose or\nfor continues stress or maybe for variable stress or\nfor bending forces / shearing forces or maybe tearing forces\n\n\nall these forces and circumstances could require other answer... which could also lead to other questions :)\n\nBut according to my experience, the strongest settings (for general purpose) is 3 outlines (and the same number of first/last layers) and triangle infill 20-25 %\n\nWhy I think this is the strongest, 3 layers gives good chance to have well stickiness even if there are geometric/design issues and triangle infill gives good (and common) way to carry and spread forces.\n\nBut as I said it depends on many input data.\n\nLet's look at these figures:\n\n\n\nin figure A we have the strongest composition for compression; this is because all working forces try to damage material particles which is of course hard to do (depending on material density and length of polymers and the way they are tangled and so on - in general - material strength only).\n\nIf we consider figure B where forces try to tear apart layers then we know that we base on stickiness between layers which can vary on printing parameters (as is temperature and speed).\n\nFinally, figure C shows shearing forces - in terms of layered structure it doesn't really differ from tearing apart but the results (the resistance of and object) is even weaker - it's because we base on stickiness and we additionally have less effective field of working stickiness) which reduces endurance of an object.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3414,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Eric Johnson,2.1782824847157594,3.4245901840942934,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,What slicer settings would produce the strongest part?,\"If a part is wanted to be made the strongest possible, what slicer settings should be used? \n\n\n3-5 shells vs all shells, no infill? \n100% infill vs some other % infill?\nThin layer height vs thick layer height?\nAny other relevant settings?\n\n\",0scar,\"This question is practically unanswerable without the load case or the part being known.\n\nInput for the \"\"strongest\"\" part is depending on:\n\n\nLoad case (compression, tension, shear)\nPart design\n# of perimeters\nFilament type\nInfill percentage (incl. local increased infill for e.g. fasteners; see e.g. \"\"Different infill in the same part\"\")\nPart orientation when slicing\netc.\n\n\nDo note that 100 % infill does not guarantee the strongest solution, from ahoeben:\n\n\n Final note: 100% infill is not always the strongest or best quality. If you overextrude by just a little bit, that will quickly add up with 100% infill. With a lower % of infill, the overextruded material has somewhere to go. There can also be issues with cooling with high amounts of infill; you are not only putting more material on the print, but also more heat. On the other hand printing a layer is going to take a long time, so there should be time to cool. But shrinking/warping while cooling is also something that is affected by the amount of material.\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n5886,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Eric Johnson,2.8153892694839717,3.841500735601597,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How do I create a STL file from a 2 dimensional grid of data,\"Given a large set of data, I was able to create a 3D graph in Microsoft Excel. How can I create a STL file similar to this graph to create a physical model of this graph?\n\n\",Eric Johnson,\"I was able to solve this using the openSCAD using the surface command. \n\nFrom the openSCAD documentation: \n\n//surface.scad\nsurface(file = \"\"surface.dat\"\", center = true, convexity = 5);\n%translate([0, 0,5])cube([10,10,10], center =true);\n\n\nAnd creating a space separated data file:\n\n#surface.dat\n10 9 8 7 6 5 5 5 5 5 \n9 8 7 6 6 4 3 2 1 0 \n8 7 6 6 4 3 2 1 0 0\n7 6 6 4 3 2 1 0 0 0\n6 6 4 3 2 1 1 0 0 0\n6 6 3 2 1 1 1 0 0 0\n6 6 2 1 1 1 1 0 0 0\n6 6 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0\n3 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0\n3 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0\n\n\nThen a STL can be exported of the data in openSCAD.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5886,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Eric Johnson,2.8153892694839717,3.841500735601597,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How do I create a STL file from a 2 dimensional grid of data,\"Given a large set of data, I was able to create a 3D graph in Microsoft Excel. How can I create a STL file similar to this graph to create a physical model of this graph?\n\n\",profesor79,\"for that you can use openSCAD.\nData can be represented as a multi-array and we can iterate on it via for loop\n\n// data structure is x,y,z where z is value \narrayOfData=[[0,10,4],[0,21,9],[0,13,8],[0,41,2],[1,0,4],[2,0,180],[7,0,90]]; \n\nfor(a=[0:1:6]) translate([arrayOfData[a][0], arrayOfData[a][1],0]) cylinder(arrayOfData[a][2],2,.5,false);\n\n\nAnd where you get the model it can be intersected with a cube to get the desired shape.\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n91,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sparkler,4.626593049438165,5.86171746352538,0.0,4.670422881206417,4.240216107868139,3.9829738809469584,Would 3d-printed objects outgas in vacuum?,\"I want to fabricate a sample holder and shadow masks to use in vacuum chambers. The type of printing material is not important to me PLA/ABS/PC-ABS/nylon).\n\nI'm worried that 3d printed objects (FDM) would degas under high vacuum. Is that an actual concern?\n\",Adam Davis,\"Almost all of the FDM materials outgas even at normal atmospheric pressure, and, in fact, most plastics outgas. Further, FDM and many other printing processes do not guarantee no internal voids - meaning that putting a 3D printed object into a vacuum may result in breakage, cracking, and possible explosion hazards.\n\nFor this reason I would focus only on SLA, as the model is printed within the liquid resin pool and should have a reduced possibility of internal voids.\n\nFinding a resin that has a low out-gas rate after curing, though, is still going to be difficult. \n\nFor this to be answered more completely, you need to specify your tolerable outgassing rate, and the processes used inside the vacuum chamber. For instance the answer would be completely different if you are discussing an electron microscope vs a sputtering chamber. As a start you might consider companies that specialize in engineered materials intended for vacuum use. They may be able to provide guidance as to which of their materials might be 3D printed and usable in your setup.\n\",3.5068404193471867,0.0\n91,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sparkler,4.626593049438165,5.86171746352538,0.0,4.670422881206417,4.240216107868139,3.9829738809469584,Would 3d-printed objects outgas in vacuum?,\"I want to fabricate a sample holder and shadow masks to use in vacuum chambers. The type of printing material is not important to me PLA/ABS/PC-ABS/nylon).\n\nI'm worried that 3d printed objects (FDM) would degas under high vacuum. Is that an actual concern?\n\",Thej Kiran,\"At work, I put a 3d ABS part printed via 3d hubs (5*20*30), in the chamber at 1 mbar. No signs of breakage what so ever. No signs of sudden leaks.\n\nGoing anywhere below 1mbar, i.e., to 10^-infinity mbar, I think should theoretically still not cause any breakage or sudden leaks, as the expected mechanism of failure depends on the pressure difference; i.e., [1atm-1mbar] ~=[1atm-10^-infinity mbar].\n\nBased on the above I have made some more parts to be put in a chamber at 1E-5 mbar.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4706,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sparkler,1.726248027126092,5.448585691727966,0.0,5.199501240805782,3.929104701733314,2.5570684596094884,Could nail polish damage pure PLA?,\"I would like to use nail polish to paint and smooth a PLA model. Could nail polish damage a model made out of pure PLA?\n\",Mark Williamson,\"NO if you want to smooth your print, gently heat the plastic and with a utensil smooth out the plastic. A hair dryer is a good way of doing this but be careful to only lightly melt the outside of the model.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4706,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sparkler,1.726248027126092,5.448585691727966,0.0,5.199501240805782,3.929104701733314,2.5570684596094884,Could nail polish damage pure PLA?,\"I would like to use nail polish to paint and smooth a PLA model. Could nail polish damage a model made out of pure PLA?\n\",moe,\"Nail polish will not damage your PLA model.\n\n1) Let's talk about \"\"gel\"\" nail polish. Gel polish self-levels, does not drip, is cheap, is much more health-friendly than many finishing methods, and only takes 30 seconds under a suitable strength UV/LED lamp to dry, providing a thick smooth coat (clear, color, glitter!, anything) that makes any layer lines disappear. \n\n2) The FDA regulates nail polish in its \"\"cosmetics\"\" category, so, not only are the ingredients known, they have to be printed on the bottle.\n\n3) Gel polish consists of various methacrylate monomers which undergo a radical (in the chemistry sense, although it is pretty darn cool too) polymerization process that is UV-activable. Filament is primarily polyactide, which is polymerized at room temperature. Polymerized polyactide reacts with methylacrylate at the ends of the long strands (not in the middle, which is what you would describe as \"\"damage\"\"). Methylacrylate actually makes the PLA ends less reactive (read: it makes it stronger). As an industrial material, this compound is known as \"\"supertoughened\"\" PLA.\n\nHope that clears things up a bit. As an aside, if you're not familiar with the different families of nail polishes, and you want to try this, you can tell if the polish you're looking at is \"\"gel\"\" because the bottle will be opaque (keeps UV out).\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n103,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,jasilva,3.0576060275493275,3.486049983626924,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,4.240216107868139,4.7596040015155525,Is it legal to make a fire weapon with a 3D printer?,\"Is there any regulation against a 3D printed weapon in the United States or Europe?\n\nSome time ago, I saw an article in Israel where they had one that was not detected by the x-ray and was fully functional!\n\",HDE 226868,\"Sort of.\n\nFully plastic guns are banned in the United States by the Undetectable Firearms Act, because they can pass unseen through metal detectors - a huge problem. One way around this is to insert a slip of metal into the gun, thereby making it detectable by metal detectors. 3D-printed guns made of metal - were that possible - would not violate the law.\n\nThe UFA was originally enacted in 1988, extended from 2003 to 2013, and then again until 2023. It may seem a bit unnecessary, as all-plastic guns, like the famous Liberator have structural issues that make them extremely difficult to fire when compared to a normal all-metal gun. However, then can be used.\n\nIn Europe, gun laws vary widely by country. The European Firearms Directive is the main international agreement on gun laws, but its application varies, and it does not directly address 3D-printed guns.\n\nI'm not aware of a country that has an explicit law banning 3D-printed guns. The only countries that ban them either unintentionally cover them or ban guns altogether.\n\",3.6340916038470805,2.0769199823829045\n107,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jon B,4.541637296610063,5.348554871589556,1.7539669625835614,6.034324953675596,4.620985695623129,3.5210507375816698,\"What can I use to \"\"sand\"\" my ABS prints?\",\"I have a 3d printer that uses ABS filament. The software I use will generate vertical supports for my objects before printing that can be easily broken off after they have been used during print to hold sharp angles up that would normally fall.\n\nAfter breaking off the stints, the print is far from smooth. Is there a material that is best suited for \"\"sanding\"\" down prints without damaging the print?\n\",TheNewHobbyist,\"I have a bunch of solutions to this problem but I'm always looking for additional ideas. I usually start by slicing as much as possible off with a hobby knife. The more than can be removed before sanding the better.\n\nFor big prints I like big generic sandpaper sheets from the hardware store. Starting with the highest grit and moving down. Make sure you're discarding your sheets when they get totally gunked up (which can happen pretty fast) or you won't get much done.\n\nFor smaller nooks and crannies I have a set of needle files. They do a pretty good job clearing out screw holes and smaller features on printed sculptures.\n\nI've also had some success sanding with my Dremel when it comes to annoying stuck on supports or other imperfections. Having some horsepower behind your sanding can be a nice break. I've also seen the wire brush attachments used for finishing Bronze and Copper-fill prints. Just keep an eye on your speed or you'll sand a hole in your print.\n\nLastly (and one I haven't tried) are these sanding sticks They were recommended by a friend and look like they would be pretty easy to use/swap out used sandpaper. \n\",3.9604314711224866,2.0769199823829045\n107,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jon B,4.541637296610063,5.348554871589556,1.7539669625835614,6.034324953675596,4.620985695623129,3.5210507375816698,\"What can I use to \"\"sand\"\" my ABS prints?\",\"I have a 3d printer that uses ABS filament. The software I use will generate vertical supports for my objects before printing that can be easily broken off after they have been used during print to hold sharp angles up that would normally fall.\n\nAfter breaking off the stints, the print is far from smooth. Is there a material that is best suited for \"\"sanding\"\" down prints without damaging the print?\n\",Davo,\"I normally deburr with a deburring tool:\n\n\n\nThen I file if needed, then I hit it with a scotch brite pad:\n\n\n\nAnd then I give it a quick pass with a heat gun to darken all the areas that have turned lighter from the abrasion.\n\nVideo showing heat gun (but not scotch brite): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Aj9WCabPgw\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n109,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,GiantCowFilms,3.767809650974757,3.235319671822568,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,What is a good way to estimate the impact on material strength different printing methods will have?,\"I'm going to 3D print a part that needs to meet certain strength requirements, due to its usages. I know how strong a particular plastic (eg. comrpessive/tensile/shear strength) is when dealt with in a solid chunk, but not when it is 3D printed. What is a good way to estimate the change?\n\",tbm0115,\"It's hard to tell without actually testing the part. There are many ways you can 3D print a part, even on the same machine, that can yield different results.\n\nHere are some tips to help uphold strength requirements:\n\n\nIdentify where your stresses are and avoid allowing the natural \"\"grain\"\" of the print (i.e. each layer) to coincide with the stresses of the part. For example, I just printed a part with hinges today. I set my part up to ensure that the circular profile of the hinge on each layer, instead of having the machine \"\"bridge\"\" the circular profile.\nMake your part more solid by increasing the infill. Note that somewhere around 35% won't really provide much more strength than say 50% with a standard infill pattern (i.e. hexagonal, diamond, catfill). However, I would imagine that if a spherical infill pattern was ever designed, that would be the strongest.\nAn easy way to beef up small areas of a part is to increase your shell variable (how many profile layers for each layer). Again, referencing my hinge design, I made sure that my hinges were completely printed using shell instead of shell/infill.\nDon't be afraid to do some post-processing such as adding epoxy/epoxies in high-stress areas.\n\n\nIf it's not an expensive part to print, I would suggest playing with some of these ideas yourself and conduct controlled tests to see what setups work best for your application(s).\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n109,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,GiantCowFilms,3.767809650974757,3.235319671822568,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,What is a good way to estimate the impact on material strength different printing methods will have?,\"I'm going to 3D print a part that needs to meet certain strength requirements, due to its usages. I know how strong a particular plastic (eg. comrpessive/tensile/shear strength) is when dealt with in a solid chunk, but not when it is 3D printed. What is a good way to estimate the change?\n\",ZuOverture,\"This is a good question, which hadn't received enough researchers' attention. People regularly print different objects, some of them with strength requirements and the need for a method of strength estimation is high.\n\nGood experimental way to estimate the change would be to find a COTS cast plastic object, be it ABS or PLA or whatever, buy 3-5 pieces, then reverse engineer it, copy the design and print it 3-5 times in different orientations. Then you need to start destroying your objects in a manner that coincides with your needs. If your parts would be experiencing compression - crush them, if stretching - tear them apart, and measure the required strength. Then compare and get relative strength, that you can further use in your calculations. You'll notice that adhesion between FDM layers is much weaker than strength of bonds in the layer plane, so you'll have two coefficients - one for Z axis, one for XY (note, that printer settings can heavily affect the result, so every coefficient will be a function of printing parameters). Can't tell 100% reliably, but SLA may have just one coefficient - I hadn't noticed any difference between parts' strength in Z and XY directions.\n\nIf you're not a fan of thorough scientific approach, then you can just print your part and test it under your target conditions as much times as necessary. Or make a casting mold, then a solid object.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n134,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,walter,3.0576060275493275,5.826235652045965,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,What are the benefits to using 128X microstepping drivers on the X and Y axis of a FFF printer?,\"Assuming you have a high quality printer with a fast processor, will you see a noticeable improvement by upgrading from 16X/32X microstepping drivers to 64X/128X microstepping drivers? (e.g. smoother surface finish). In what ways do they perform differently from the more common 16X or 32X stepper drivers. I'm thinking the RAPS128, Silencioso, and Trinamic drivers vs the DRV8825, A4988 and A4988.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Prints benefit from higher microstepping in two ways:\n\nNoise level\n\nUsing microstepping reduces noise from your printer's operation.\n\nPrint quality\n\nUsing higher resolution microstepping does not increase the physical accuracy of your prints meaningfully, but it can reduce surface artifacts such as moire.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n134,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,walter,3.0576060275493275,5.826235652045965,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,What are the benefits to using 128X microstepping drivers on the X and Y axis of a FFF printer?,\"Assuming you have a high quality printer with a fast processor, will you see a noticeable improvement by upgrading from 16X/32X microstepping drivers to 64X/128X microstepping drivers? (e.g. smoother surface finish). In what ways do they perform differently from the more common 16X or 32X stepper drivers. I'm thinking the RAPS128, Silencioso, and Trinamic drivers vs the DRV8825, A4988 and A4988.\n\",Kevin Morse,\"You will likely not see a noticeable improvement by upgrading from a 16x or 32x to a 64x or 128x microstepping driver. Depending on the motors you're driving and the size of the load you could actually see a decrease in quality.\n\nAlthough microstepping increases theoretical resolution it does not necessarily increase accuracy. The reason is that microstepping significantly limits the incremental torque of the motor. This means that you may ask for a step but not get one because the torque of the step won't be enough to actually turn the shaft.\n\nAs an example: a motor running in full steps will have 100% of its rated holding torque. Moving to 16 microsteps/full steps drops this to ~10%, 128 drops it to ~1%.\n\nThe practical effect of this is that in high torque situations (such as printing at fast speeds) the motor may end up skipping some of the steps. In this way the increase in resolution can actually lead to a decrease in accuracy (smaller steps but they may not actually be taken).\n\nA relevant calculation to do would be to work out what the different number of microsteps to full steps works out to in terms of horizontal, vertical, or whatever movement the motor drives. You can do this by measuring how far the stepper moves said surface in one revolution provided you know the number of steps it takes per revolution.\n\nExample: \n\nWith no microstepping: 1 turn/inch * 200 steps/turn = 200 steps/inch or .005 inch/step (127 micron resolution)\n\nWith 16x microstepping: 16 * 200 steps/inch or .0003 inch / step (8 micron resolution)\n\nIn this example 128x microstepping would be absolutely foolish. Every situation is different and you should use this information to make a decision based on your setup. Many manufacturers have recommendations on how far their motors can be microstepped.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n140,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kareem,4.993671754199731,5.343287201348044,0.0,3.1880595895805834,4.503257053771732,4.837794676599878,Do stepper motors require any maintenance?,\"I've had my printer for almost a year now.\n\nIs there something I should be doing to maintain the motors?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"No, stepper motors do not require maintenance. They are a brushless kind of motor, so they do not have brushes that need to be replaced.\n\",3.5068404193471867,0.0\n140,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kareem,4.993671754199731,5.343287201348044,0.0,3.1880595895805834,4.503257053771732,4.837794676599878,Do stepper motors require any maintenance?,\"I've had my printer for almost a year now.\n\nIs there something I should be doing to maintain the motors?\n\",tamarintech,\"The stepper motor itself does not. You may want to inspect the motors for debris or dust.\n\nDepending on your configuration you may want to check on parts of your printer that connect to your stepper motor such as shaft couplings, pulleys, lead screws/threaded rods and belts. The stepper motor wires should occasionally be inspected for wear and strain.\n\",3.859531739127555,2.0769199823829045\n147,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dawny33,4.926797888702776,4.812972510141559,3.507933925167123,4.670422881206417,5.024356785862165,4.4576806461049765,Which are the food-safe materials and how do I recognize them?,\"What materials which are commonly used in 3D printing, are food-safe?\n\nAre there any certifications/grading process for such materials, which can help me with my cross-checking and selection?\n\n\n\nI have been using an FDM printer.\n\",Adam Davis,\"Food Contact Substances\n\nThere are regulatory agencies in most developed countries that regulate food containers. In the USA, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) regulates Food Contact Substances (FCS) which are materials that come into contact with food during production, manufacturing, storage, packing, and use.\n\nThey have many lists of FCS which are either approved for use, generally recognized as safe, regulated, restricted, or otherwise already evaluated and for which they have recommendations.\n\nIt is up to the manufacturer to ensure that FCS are safe, so the liability rests with the person making the 3D prints. If you make something that looks like a cup and could be confused with a cup, you may be responsible for following these guidelines.\n\nUS FDA regulation for ABS and PLA\n\nThe FDA has an online resource to help guide manufacturers through these lists, Determining the Regulatory Status of Components of a Food Contact Material.\n\nWithin this, for instance, you will find the list for materials that are appropriately regulated indirect additive, under which you'll find where polymers are listed, 21 CFR 177.\n\nPart 177, INDIRECT FOOD ADDITIVES: POLYMERS\n\nNotably, PLA is not present in this section, or any other list that I've searched (but a more thorough search may prove productive).\n\nABS is included here, in section 1020, which I've quoted below. Whether your filament manufacturer is following this ABS formula or not is something you will have to determine for each ABS supplier you use, though. Additives, colorants, and other ingredients may make a specific ABS non food safe, according to the FDA.\n\n\n §177.1020 Acrylonitrile/butadiene/styrene co-polymer.\n Acrylonitrile/butadiene/styrene copolymer identified in this section\n may be safely used as an article or component of articles intended for\n use with all foods, except those containing alcohol, under conditions\n of use E, F, and G described in table 2 of §176.170(c) of this\n chapter.\n \n (a) Identity. For the purpose of this section, the\n acrylonitrile/butadiene/styrene copolymer consists of:\n \n (1) Eighty-four to eighty-nine parts by weight of a matrix polymer\n containing 73 to 78 parts by weight of acrylonitrile and 22 to 27\n parts by weight of styrene; and\n \n (2) Eleven to sixteen parts by weight of a grafted rubber consisting\n of (i) 8 to 13 parts of butadiene/styrene elastomer containing 72 to\n 77 parts by weight of butadiene and 23 to 28 parts by weight of\n styrene and (ii) 3 to 8 parts by weight of a graft polymer having the\n same composition range as the matrix polymer.\n \n (b) Adjuvants. The copolymer identified in paragraph (a) of this\n section may contain adjuvant substances required in its production.\n Such adjuvants may include substances generally recognized as safe in\n food, substances used in accordance with prior sanction, substances\n permitted in this part, and the following:\n \n Substance Limitations 2-Mercapto- ethanol The finished copolymer shall\n contain not more than 100 ppm 2-mercaptoethanol acrylonitrile adduct\n as determined by a method titled “Analysis of Cycopac Resin for\n Residual β-(2-Hydroxyethylmercapto) propionitrile,” which is\n incorporated by reference. Copies are available from the Bureau of\n Foods (HFS-200), Food and Drug Administration, 5100 Paint Branch\n Pkwy., College Park, MD 20740, or available for inspection at the\n National Archives and Records Administration (NARA). For information\n on the availability of this material at NARA, call 202-741-6030, or go\n to:\n http://www.archives.gov/federal_register/code_of_federal_regulations/ibr_locations.html.\n (c) Specifications. (1) Nitrogen content of the copolymer is in the\n range of 16 to 18.5 percent as determined by Micro-Kjeldahl analysis.\n \n (2) Residual acrylonitrile monomer content of the finished copolymer\n articles is not more than 11 parts per million as determined by a gas\n chromatographic method titled “Determination of Residual Acrylonitrile\n and Styrene Monomers-Gas Chromatographic Internal Standard Method,”\n which is incorporated by reference. Copies are available from the\n Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition (HFS-200), Food and Drug\n Administration, 5100 Paint Branch Pkwy., College Park, MD 20740, or\n available for inspection at the National Archives and Records\n Administration (NARA). For information on the availability of this\n material at NARA, call 202-741-6030, or go to:\n http://www.archives.gov/federal_register/code_of_federal_regulations/ibr_locations.html.\n \n (d) Extractive limitations. (1) Total nonvolatile extractives not to\n exceed 0.0005 milligram per square inch surface area when the finished\n food contact article is exposed to distilled water, 3 percent acetic\n acid, or n-heptane for 8 days at 120 °F.\n \n (2) The finished food-contact article shall yield not more than 0.0015\n milligram per square inch of acrylonitrile monomer when exposed to\n distilled water and 3 percent acetic acid at 150 °F for 15 days when\n analyzed by a polarographic method titled “Extracted Acrylonitrile by\n Differential Pulse Polarography,” which is incorporated by reference.\n Copies are available from the Center for Food Safety and Applied\n Nutrition (HFS-200), Food and Drug Administration, 5100 Paint Branch\n Pkwy., College Park, MD 20740, or available for inspection at the\n National Archives and Records Administration (NARA). For information\n on the availability of this material at NARA, call 202-741-6030, or go\n to:\n http://www.archives.gov/federal_register/code_of_federal_regulations/ibr_locations.html.\n \n (e) Acrylonitrile copolymers identified in this section shall comply\n with the provisions of §180.22 of this chapter.\n \n (f) Acrylonitrile copolymers identified in this section are not\n authorized to be used to fabricate beverage containers.\n \n [42 FR 14572, Mar. 15, 1977, as amended at 42 FR 48543, Sept. 23,\n 1977; 47 FR 11841, Mar. 19, 1982; 54 FR 24897, June 12, 1989]\n\n\nRegulation globally\n\nThe EU has a database for this, though without some industry specific experience it appears difficult to search. For instance, rather than listing ABS as an item, it lists the three monomers that constitute ABS seperately, so you have to read through the Acrylonitrile section, the butadiene section, and the styrene sections seperately to understand the food safety aspects of ABS.\n\nOf course someone has gone to the trouble of parsing all these different regulations in different countries and created a book that summarizes much of what you can glean from individual databases, Global Legislation for Food Contact Materials J S Baughan but it's not an inexpensive resource, and needs constant update so may need to be repurchased each year to keep up with the latest legislation worldwide. It would, however, be a handy reference and starting point for a hack space or library for makers.\n\nConclusion\n\nKeep in mind that these are regulations formulated by government bodies. They may have a scientific basis (and hopefully they all do) but they do not replace your own testing and common sense. Even if you follow these regulations, you may still be liable for any unsafe objects you create.\n\",3.367452517504837,0.0\n147,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dawny33,4.926797888702776,4.812972510141559,3.507933925167123,4.670422881206417,5.024356785862165,4.4576806461049765,Which are the food-safe materials and how do I recognize them?,\"What materials which are commonly used in 3D printing, are food-safe?\n\nAre there any certifications/grading process for such materials, which can help me with my cross-checking and selection?\n\n\n\nI have been using an FDM printer.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Food safety is a property of both the process and the material. You can't stick food-safe material in a printer that has previously been used to print something food-dangerous and expect the result to be food safe.\n\nThe only way to know if a given material is food-safe is to ask your supplier, but a lot depends on how you then process it. For instance, FDM printers often have brass nozzles, which contain lead. To print food-safe materials, you need to use a stainless steel nozzle.\n\nFood safe materials can be identified by mean of an universal symbol.\n\nMoreover, to ensure food-safety of a 3D printed model you may need to further process it (for instance, by vapor smoothing or coating with a food-safe lacquer). Some claims circulate on the internet that 3D printed models may have surface porosity in which bacteria can grow, but I've not been able to find a reliable source for this claim. Still, you need to be cautious.\n\",4.306142032796979,2.0769199823829045\n199,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dawny33,4.030301511886631,4.168757767375456,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,3.749318730431847,3.265283966335819,How do I do multi-colour printing?,\"Printer: FDM printer (FDM == Fusion Deposition Modelling).\n\nRaw Material: Thermoplastics.\n\nHow do I do multicolor printing? What changes should I make to the printing process/to the raw material used?\n\n(Answer in the context of printing a basic 3X3 Rubix cube)\n\n\n\nBonus: What are the best practises while doing multi-colour printing? (<-- This is opinion based and/or broad, so pl add an answer to this point as an extra to your answers if you can. It would greatly help people getting started/practising with multi-colour printing) \n\",Martin Carney,\"There are a few different approaches I've seen which you could look into.\n\nThe easiest and most common is multiple extruders, each with a different color of thermoplastic. Tools like Pronterface and Slic3r have built-in support for multiple extruders. With multiple extruders you can get one color per extruder; there's no clear way to mix colors and get a color between the input materials' colors.\n\nAnother, more complicated approach is to use a single extruder with three inputs, like this one, where thermoplastic from the three inputs can be mixed in varying amounts to get color gradients between the input colors. With red, yellow, and blue filament, you could get a rainbow of colors...albeit without any control over value (white to black) or saturation (bright vs dull color).\n\",3.2133663407215876,0.0\n199,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dawny33,4.030301511886631,4.168757767375456,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,3.749318730431847,3.265283966335819,How do I do multi-colour printing?,\"Printer: FDM printer (FDM == Fusion Deposition Modelling).\n\nRaw Material: Thermoplastics.\n\nHow do I do multicolor printing? What changes should I make to the printing process/to the raw material used?\n\n(Answer in the context of printing a basic 3X3 Rubix cube)\n\n\n\nBonus: What are the best practises while doing multi-colour printing? (<-- This is opinion based and/or broad, so pl add an answer to this point as an extra to your answers if you can. It would greatly help people getting started/practising with multi-colour printing) \n\",Ajay Kumar,\"Design a product in such a way that it has different heights that can be seen in one plane.\n\nBy using direct drive extrusion we can easily change the material of different colours with out pausing the print to obtain colour print.\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n297,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dawny33,2.1782824847157594,3.615707788172995,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,\"What are the other materials which can be used in DLP Printing, other than polymers?\",\"I know that melted polymers are used for DLP (digital light processing) printing, by displaying the model onto the liquid material, which is the melted polymer.\n\nBut, can I use materials like steel, carbon fiber, etc?\n\nIf yes, then what precautions and arrangement should I make to my apparatus for coping with their high melting point?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"DLP doesn't use \"\"melted polymer\"\". It uses a photosenstive resin which is at room temperature and polymerizes when exposed to (UV) light. At no point is any material melted.\n\nAs such, steel or carbon fiber can not be used as these materials are not photosensitive.\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n149,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tom van der Zanden,3.452496054252184,3.846478051241465,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,What can cause a sudden and dramatic loss in the inter-layer registration of my prints?,\"Suddenly, my printer has started producing prints that have a very pronounced layering. Normally, the alignment between layers is very good, and the prints look very smooth. Suddenly, the prints have become much worse and the layers are misaligned with respect to each other.\n\n\n\nThe part on the left is my \"\"normal\"\" quality, while the part on the right show the deterioration. Here is another picture (in which the good part is on the right):\n\n\n\nThe parts are both printed with 0.1mm layer height, and identical slicer settings/filament. I am printing on a custom-built FDM printer; the mechanism is roughly similar to that of an Ultimaker.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"It appears the heatbreak of my E3D nozzle had worked itself loose from the heatsink, allowing the nozzle to wobble around a bit. Because the nozzle was still tight against the heatbreak I didn't experience any issues with my hotend, but because the heatbreak was slightly loose the nozzle wasn't properly constrained and moving around a bit.\n\nA quick turn to tighten the heatsink back into the heatbreak was enough to fully resolve the issue. My prints are as smooth as ever now.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n149,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tom van der Zanden,3.452496054252184,3.846478051241465,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,What can cause a sudden and dramatic loss in the inter-layer registration of my prints?,\"Suddenly, my printer has started producing prints that have a very pronounced layering. Normally, the alignment between layers is very good, and the prints look very smooth. Suddenly, the prints have become much worse and the layers are misaligned with respect to each other.\n\n\n\nThe part on the left is my \"\"normal\"\" quality, while the part on the right show the deterioration. Here is another picture (in which the good part is on the right):\n\n\n\nThe parts are both printed with 0.1mm layer height, and identical slicer settings/filament. I am printing on a custom-built FDM printer; the mechanism is roughly similar to that of an Ultimaker.\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"Have you recently leveled your print bed? By placing the nozzle too close to the bed on the first layer the first layer will seem over extruded. If there are no infill layers after the first layer, these layers will seem over extruded as well since the extra filament will have nowhere to go. \n\nA typical sign of too close bed leveling is that the bottom layers seem over extruded, while layers after regions of infill appear normally extruded. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n241,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tom van der Zanden,3.767809650974757,4.856272387151532,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Issue with weird heated bed temperature fluctuations,\"I have a strange issue with my heated bed. It has been working well for a long time, but recently it has developed an issue where the temperature reported by the thermistor will occasionally jump by around 10 degrees.\n\n\n\n\n\nMy setup is a 600W, 240V silicone heater mat, with integrated 100k thermistor, that is switched with a solid state relay. The mat is fixed to a 4mm thick aluminium plate. It seems unlikely that these fluctuations are due to bad PID tuning since the reported temperature changes much more quickly than is physically possible.\n\nI've checked the wiring, tried using a different thermistor port and making sure the connector was properly plugged in, but to no avail. The fluctuations are brief enough that they don't cause any problems when printing, but I'm worried about the issue getting worse.\n\nI have a RAMBo board 1.1b, and I've tried using both the integrated 5V SMPS supply and an external USB supply.\n\nThe issue is not limited to the start of printing, the temperature reported can be stable for a long time before the issue pops up. The issue also occurs during cooldown (further confirming that PID has nothing to do with it):\n\n\n\nIn fact, the issue seems slightly more common during heat up and cool down, but is not limited to these times.\n\nI would like to know what might be causing this issue, and if there's a way to solve it without replacing the thermistor (which would be a pain, since it's integrated into the heater mat).\n\",TextGeek,\"It sounds like EM interference to me, though Adam's points about connections are also a good bet. I would try re-routing the thermistor wires far away from other wires. If that helps, then either leave them re-routed, or shield them. In any case, please let us know what you find.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n241,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tom van der Zanden,3.767809650974757,4.856272387151532,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Issue with weird heated bed temperature fluctuations,\"I have a strange issue with my heated bed. It has been working well for a long time, but recently it has developed an issue where the temperature reported by the thermistor will occasionally jump by around 10 degrees.\n\n\n\n\n\nMy setup is a 600W, 240V silicone heater mat, with integrated 100k thermistor, that is switched with a solid state relay. The mat is fixed to a 4mm thick aluminium plate. It seems unlikely that these fluctuations are due to bad PID tuning since the reported temperature changes much more quickly than is physically possible.\n\nI've checked the wiring, tried using a different thermistor port and making sure the connector was properly plugged in, but to no avail. The fluctuations are brief enough that they don't cause any problems when printing, but I'm worried about the issue getting worse.\n\nI have a RAMBo board 1.1b, and I've tried using both the integrated 5V SMPS supply and an external USB supply.\n\nThe issue is not limited to the start of printing, the temperature reported can be stable for a long time before the issue pops up. The issue also occurs during cooldown (further confirming that PID has nothing to do with it):\n\n\n\nIn fact, the issue seems slightly more common during heat up and cool down, but is not limited to these times.\n\nI would like to know what might be causing this issue, and if there's a way to solve it without replacing the thermistor (which would be a pain, since it's integrated into the heater mat).\n\",cmm,\"From the decay curve of the temperature graph, it appears that the firmware is filtering the temperature signal. Since it jumps up so quickly, I suspect that the thermister is indicating a much higher than 10-degree temperature change, but after filtering the result is a ten-degree change.\n\nIf the problem were a bad connection to the typical thermistor, the temperature would appear to be much lower, not much higher. \n\nAn electrical fault that would cause a typical negative temperature coefficient thermistor to indicate an intermittent high temperature could be a short circuit or some other condition that could cause 0 voltage across the thermister.\n\nYour circuitry may be different, but I would suggest that several circuits I've seen on 3D printers to sense temperature have one side of the thermistor connected to ground, with the other side connected both to a pull-up resistor to Vcc (+5 or +3.3 depending on the electronics) and to an analog input which samples (measures) the voltage. If the powered thermistor line shorts to ground anywhere, it will show 0 volts. If the pull-up resistor is disconnected from the power source, it will show 0 volts. If either thermistor line has extra connection resistance or has a bad connection, the voltage will be closer to Vcc than it should be.\n\nYou could check this possibility by connecting a voltmeter or oscilloscope to the non-grounded thermister line, and then monitoring the voltage. The voltage should always appear to smoothly change (limited by the thermal physics of the bed. Try moving the bed and/or head through the range. Try tapping the bed, cables, and electronics while looking for a change. Any sudden change indicated a connection problem. The voltage going up indicates an open circuit to the thermistor. The voltage going down indicates a short.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n250,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tom van der Zanden,4.356564969431519,5.38433517838286,0.0,6.034324953675596,4.240216107868139,3.7272071097011072,How to print an overhanging arc,\"I am designing a part that has to clamp around a 11mm bushing, and due to other design constraints, it has to be printed with a semicircle-shaped overhang:\n\n\n\nThis is proving very challenging to print. Two copies of this part have to clamp tightly around the bushing in all directions. Support material is rather hard to remove from the very top of the arc (where the overhang angle is the highest) and I often end up removing just too little of the support material (so the part doesn't fit around the bushing) or too much (and the bushing can wobble around).\n\nIs there any way I can modify the design of this part (bearing in mind that it absolutely has to be printed in this orientation) to make it more tolerant of my inaccuracy when removing supports, or is there perhaps some way to manually design supports that are easier to remove (Simplify3D and Cura both don't quite cut it)?\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"I believe the post by @tbm0115, covers many of the general options. However, I would also consider installing additional fans to improve cooling of the model during printing.\n\nAs pointed out by this excellent article, installing a fan can significantly reduce issues the from printing overhangs. Regarding the type of fan to get, they stated that: \n\n\n It seems that the fan shroud you choose is less important than the fan type. The blower fan was consistently weighted above the stock 40 mm fan regardless of shroud. Using a blower also gives you the best possible airflow through any shroud you decide to use.\n\n\nIn addition - in my experience - adding having two or more fans blowing on the model from different directions will further improve overhang performance. This is because all parts of the print are less likely to experience lack of cooling due to wind shadow - or drag.\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n250,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tom van der Zanden,4.356564969431519,5.38433517838286,0.0,6.034324953675596,4.240216107868139,3.7272071097011072,How to print an overhanging arc,\"I am designing a part that has to clamp around a 11mm bushing, and due to other design constraints, it has to be printed with a semicircle-shaped overhang:\n\n\n\nThis is proving very challenging to print. Two copies of this part have to clamp tightly around the bushing in all directions. Support material is rather hard to remove from the very top of the arc (where the overhang angle is the highest) and I often end up removing just too little of the support material (so the part doesn't fit around the bushing) or too much (and the bushing can wobble around).\n\nIs there any way I can modify the design of this part (bearing in mind that it absolutely has to be printed in this orientation) to make it more tolerant of my inaccuracy when removing supports, or is there perhaps some way to manually design supports that are easier to remove (Simplify3D and Cura both don't quite cut it)?\n\",tjb1,\"You could modify it as shown in my picture. I added lines tangent to the 11mm circle and in this example I set them to a 40 degree overhang which should be fine, the top line is also tangent to the circle and in my experience it's easier to bridge a small section rather than do a bunch of small overhangs like an arc would do. You still end up with quite a bit of contact but also easy to print.\n\nI did something similar to this on my printer where the smooth rods enter horizontal holes.\n\n\n\",3.6340916038470805,2.0769199823829045\n256,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tom van der Zanden,3.0576060275493275,3.7217012100104734,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Optimal ratio of fresh to used nylon powder,\"I am operating a laser sintering machine, using polyamide 2200 powder (with a grain size of approximately 50 micrometers). During a print, a lot of powder goes unsintered and can theoretically be reused. However, using purely recycled powder degrades print quality to an unacceptable level.\n\nMixing a little used powder into a larger amount of fresh powder seems to work well though. What is the greatest ratio of used to fresh powder that still gives good results, and is there anything I can do (pre- postprocessing) to allow more powder to be reused?\n\",Adam Davis,\"You'll find generally that mixing 40% new polyamide with 60% recycled polyamide will result in a reasonable finish and part. You will obviously want to use all new for parts requiring the best possible finish and mechanical properties, but this mixture will be very difficult to tell apart from a fully new mixture part:\n\nhttp://www.paramountind.com/pdfs/eos_pa2200_mds.pdf\n\nThis is more detailed research showing how used powder changes and how that affects print quality here:\n\nhttp://www.emeraldinsight.com/doi/abs/10.1108/13552540910960299\n\nSearching for the research paper title may find a free source, but the linked resource does require a subscription or payment to that service.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n256,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tom van der Zanden,3.0576060275493275,3.7217012100104734,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Optimal ratio of fresh to used nylon powder,\"I am operating a laser sintering machine, using polyamide 2200 powder (with a grain size of approximately 50 micrometers). During a print, a lot of powder goes unsintered and can theoretically be reused. However, using purely recycled powder degrades print quality to an unacceptable level.\n\nMixing a little used powder into a larger amount of fresh powder seems to work well though. What is the greatest ratio of used to fresh powder that still gives good results, and is there anything I can do (pre- postprocessing) to allow more powder to be reused?\n\",Steve M.,\"I currently use the 60/40 recycling mix ratio and find that it works very well. I do however wonder if there is an even more effective ratio in order to recycle used powder. I currently discard all \"\"cake\"\" powder (powder remaining in the build piston) and am only \"\"recycling\"\" the push off powder. I found this paper but it's unclear if they are reusing just the push off or both push off and cake. Any further opinions/ideas would be greatly appreciated.\n\nhttp://www.internationaljournalssrg.org/IJME/2015/Volume2-Issue7/IJME-V2I7P106.pdf\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n293,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tom van der Zanden,4.030301511886631,4.510256285736951,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,E3D Thermistor Alternative,\"E3D hotends use a thermistor whose legs are insulated with glass fiber sleeving and clamped down with a screw and washer:\n\n\n\nThis solution enables the printing of high temperature materials, but it's a bit fragile and after reassembling the hotend a couple of times, the screw will have thoroughly mangled the thermistor's legs and sleeving.\n\nSome knockoff E3D hotends use a (horrible) solution where the thermistor is just loose in its respective hole, and kapton taped to the heater cartridge wires which holds it in place:\n\n\n\nThis solution seems kind of ad-hoc, and I'm worried about the thermistor coming loose. One advantage is that it can be reassembled arbitrarily often, since just pulling out the heater cartridge also pulls out the thermistor without damaging it. Note that the picture shows PTFE sleeving which restricts the temperature, but you could easily use fibreglass in this situation as well.\n\nAnother solution is the stud thermistor:\n\n\n\nIt screws into the hole that is normally used for the clamping screw. Unfortunately you're limited to around 250C because of the epoxy used in the stud. I've also found that the epoxy fails after a while (regardless of temperature) and the thermistor isn't locked in place any more (it still works, by virtue of being constrained by the heater cartridge wires as in the previous solution but that's not ideal).\n\nAre there any solutions, compatible with genuine E3D hotends, that:\n\n\nare not limited in temperature by epoxy or PTFE,\ncan withstand being disassembled and reassembled better than the standard fiberglass sleeving,\nis a bit less hokey than a kapton taping the thermistor's wires to the heater cartridge and hoping that holds it in place?\n\n\",TextGeek,\"I like the mounting method on my Mk9 extruder: there's a small hole drilled into the heat block, parallel to the heater hole. B3 Innovations sells a thermistor packaged into a small spring. The whole assembly goes in the hole, and a setscrew (gently!) secures it. You could just as well put a bare thermistor into a spring or something similar; it's mainly to protect the thermistor from the setscrew, and from excessive bending.\n\nFrom your photo, it looks like the same thing would work fine for your hotend.\n\nHowever you mount it, adding some thermal grease can help conduction from the surroundings.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n293,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tom van der Zanden,4.030301511886631,4.510256285736951,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,E3D Thermistor Alternative,\"E3D hotends use a thermistor whose legs are insulated with glass fiber sleeving and clamped down with a screw and washer:\n\n\n\nThis solution enables the printing of high temperature materials, but it's a bit fragile and after reassembling the hotend a couple of times, the screw will have thoroughly mangled the thermistor's legs and sleeving.\n\nSome knockoff E3D hotends use a (horrible) solution where the thermistor is just loose in its respective hole, and kapton taped to the heater cartridge wires which holds it in place:\n\n\n\nThis solution seems kind of ad-hoc, and I'm worried about the thermistor coming loose. One advantage is that it can be reassembled arbitrarily often, since just pulling out the heater cartridge also pulls out the thermistor without damaging it. Note that the picture shows PTFE sleeving which restricts the temperature, but you could easily use fibreglass in this situation as well.\n\nAnother solution is the stud thermistor:\n\n\n\nIt screws into the hole that is normally used for the clamping screw. Unfortunately you're limited to around 250C because of the epoxy used in the stud. I've also found that the epoxy fails after a while (regardless of temperature) and the thermistor isn't locked in place any more (it still works, by virtue of being constrained by the heater cartridge wires as in the previous solution but that's not ideal).\n\nAre there any solutions, compatible with genuine E3D hotends, that:\n\n\nare not limited in temperature by epoxy or PTFE,\ncan withstand being disassembled and reassembled better than the standard fiberglass sleeving,\nis a bit less hokey than a kapton taping the thermistor's wires to the heater cartridge and hoping that holds it in place?\n\n\",vittorio88,\"I have now purchased a hot-end block from here, that has a \"\"cartridge style\"\" cylindrical thermistor that fits into a drilled hole of the hot-end block, and is fixed by an additional screw. This system makes maintenance much easier, the thermistor slides in and out without force, and it has a connector to change only thermistor (or unscrew hot-end block without removing cables if your hot-end also has a connector).\n\n \n\nI highly recommend this upgrade, if you are using older-style hot-ends, because it makes maintenance much easier.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n894,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tom van der Zanden,3.267423727073639,5.9632703352995415,3.507933925167123,4.670422881206417,3.929104701733314,3.7272071097011072,Can I increase retraction length on an E3D v6 beyond 2 mm if I have a really long Bowden tube?,\"E3D mentions on their own wiki:\n\n\n Excessively long retractions will cause issues by dragging soft filament into cold areas. [...] for bowden systems you might want to go up to 2 mm. Retraction beyond 2 mm is likely to cause issues.\n\n\nI have retraction set to the recommended maximum of 2 mm, but I still get a lot of stringing and blobs. My printer is set up with a relatively long Bowden tube (500-600 mm). I wonder if I need to push my retraction setting slightly beyond 2 mm to take up some of the slack. Is the 2 mm a conservative rating (I guess they don't want dissatisfied customers with clogging problems) or is it really the maximum? Is there anything else I can do to improve retraction performance? (I already have a small coasting distance of 0.1 mm set.)\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"As pointed out by this article, you can try to:\n\n\nIncrease your speed for travel moves\nIncrease retraction length\nPlace objects strategically during print\n\n\n1. Calibrating travel speed\n\nWhen calibrating travel speed, you can work with:\n\n\nMaximum travel speed\nAcceleration\nJerk\nZ-hop/lift *\n\n\nI found this acceleration calculator (by RepRap Central) and video (by Thomas Sanladerer) very useful.\n\n*' when moving at high speed, your stepper motors are more susceptible to getting de-tracked by nozzle collision from imperfections during print. If this becomes an issue, consider increasing your z-lift setting.\n\n2. Adjusting retraction\n\nYou can be fairly certain that your filament will clog if it actually retracts past those 2mm recommended by E3D at the hot end. However - as pointed out about by Ryan - bowden retraction is based on hysteresis, meaning that that the actual retraction distance at the hot end is lagging behind the distance retracted at the cold end.\n\nI have been battling this exact issue on my 30cm bowden tube E3D V6 setup recently, and currently use a fairly conservative ~2mm retraction. I am still getting occasional clogs while printing PETG.\n\n3. Distance between objects\n\nFrom the article linked at the top: \n\n\n The faster you’re able to move to the next print position, the less time there is for filament to ooze from the hot end\n\n\nAs such, the distance between the printed objects will change the characteristics of the stringing:\n\n\n\n\n\",3.0411126502294303,0.0\n894,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tom van der Zanden,3.267423727073639,5.9632703352995415,3.507933925167123,4.670422881206417,3.929104701733314,3.7272071097011072,Can I increase retraction length on an E3D v6 beyond 2 mm if I have a really long Bowden tube?,\"E3D mentions on their own wiki:\n\n\n Excessively long retractions will cause issues by dragging soft filament into cold areas. [...] for bowden systems you might want to go up to 2 mm. Retraction beyond 2 mm is likely to cause issues.\n\n\nI have retraction set to the recommended maximum of 2 mm, but I still get a lot of stringing and blobs. My printer is set up with a relatively long Bowden tube (500-600 mm). I wonder if I need to push my retraction setting slightly beyond 2 mm to take up some of the slack. Is the 2 mm a conservative rating (I guess they don't want dissatisfied customers with clogging problems) or is it really the maximum? Is there anything else I can do to improve retraction performance? (I already have a small coasting distance of 0.1 mm set.)\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"Yes, you can increase retraction past E3D's max 2 mm recommendation to compensate for Bowden tube stretch and slop. The reason for the recommendation is that jams will occur with most all-metal hot ends if you pull molten filament up into the cold zone. Any molten filament that enters the cold zone rapidly cools and hardens and sticks to the walls, very often forming a jam. \n\nSo, the requirement is to keep your retraction distance at the extruder less than 2 mm. Additional retraction travel that is absorbed by the Bowden tube and not seen at the extruder is fine. I personally run 2.5 mm retraction on an E3Dv6 Bowden system without any issues. \n\",3.367452517504837,2.0769199823829045\n962,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tom van der Zanden,3.0576060275493275,5.1065816621649205,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.880918201452841,\"Printer randomly moves to home during printing, then resumes as normal\",\"During printing, my printer occasionally makes some mystery moves: it will very slowly move either the X or Y axis all the way to the left/front, before very slowly moving back to its original position and resuming the print as normal. I've checked my G-code files, and the moves are definitely not part of the G-code. What could be causing this?\n\nI'm printing from an SD card on a Cartesian printer.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The issue was due to a corrupt SD-card, which was occasionally having some garbage read from it. It turns out that Marlin will try interpret a corrupt move command like G0 X1q3.54 and still read as many numbers as it can. In this example, it would be interpreted as G0 X1 rather than (as might have been intended) G0 X103.54.\n\nThis explains my symptoms perfectly:\n\n\nX and Y always moved to (approximately) their home positions, but it was always only one of them (it's quite unlikely that both moves are corrupted).\nZ was not affected because Z moves are much rarer in the G-code (only on layer change) and thus it was very unlikely that a Z move would be affected.\nE was not affected since a request to move E to near 0 would be prevented by Marlin's long extrusion prevention.\n\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n962,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tom van der Zanden,3.0576060275493275,5.1065816621649205,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.880918201452841,\"Printer randomly moves to home during printing, then resumes as normal\",\"During printing, my printer occasionally makes some mystery moves: it will very slowly move either the X or Y axis all the way to the left/front, before very slowly moving back to its original position and resuming the print as normal. I've checked my G-code files, and the moves are definitely not part of the G-code. What could be causing this?\n\nI'm printing from an SD card on a Cartesian printer.\n\",Trish,\"Beides a corrupt SD card that stores worng bits, leading to absurd commands, it's also possible that ithers parts in the Creatin of the file are compromised:\n\nThis can for example happen if the card is removed during writing - but in this case it should be mostly an incomplete file on importing into an interpreter.\n\nMore a random distribution of bad commands would appear if the writing process in itself is faulty, for example if the SD Port is defect or the adapter hast a error. Another way that writing can fail is if the drivers for the SD card adapter/port are corrupted. \n\nTo detect a bad file or corrupted card is possible by re-importing the G-Code into a slicer (for example CURA allows this) and look at the tool paths. If any port does this with any card, software is to blame: See if it persists after a driver update (rare!) and a reinstall of the slicer. If it fails in one port but works in a different the port or adapter might bei at fault and might need replacement. If it is endemic to one card, this one is corrupt and to be thrown out. If it is endemic to a single file, overwrite it with a new one - sometimes writing fails for reasons that are almost impossible to understand.\n\nIf the file&card are fine but read wrongly at the printer, then the card reader in the printer or the board are to blame.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1058,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tom van der Zanden,2.528907649931287,3.087132483714226,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,\"What does it mean for step and dir \"\"to be on their own ports\"\"?\",\"The wiki page for the RAMBo board mentions:\n\n\n Step and Direction pins are on their own ports for synchronous movement capability\n\n\nWhat does this mean, and how does it affect printing? Do I need special firmware to take advantage of this?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"A \"\"port\"\" for the AVR microcontroller is a set of eight IO pins that are controlled together at a hardware level. The underlying machine code can write an entire byte to set the status of all 8 pins at once. So in principle, all the step pins on the RAMBO board can be triggered exactly simultaneously. \n\nThe Arduino IDE hides this behavior from firmwares by abstracting the port's byte handling as a function call for each individual pin. That means programmers only have to know the Arduino PIN number, not which port and position on the processor is being used. And then the modern firmwares typically used by RAMBO do a further layer of abstraction to make it easy for the same firmware to be used by different boards, by changing pin assigned names in a config file (usually pins.h) and not assuming any specific port selection was made during board design.\n\nThere's no guarantee for open-source firmware that a particular pin selection was made in hardware. Lots of 3D printer controller boards even have pretty dumb pin assignments, like using hardware-PWM-capable pins for stepper signals rather than PWM'd heaters. Marlin and Repetier have chosen flexibility over performance optimization in this regard. They pretty much let the board designer use any pin for anything. When they have to do stuff like run heater PWM control or fire a bunch of step pulses as fast as possible, they emulate that in software rather than taking advantage of specific hardware that isn't always available. \n\nIn this specific case, there may not actually be all that much performance gain/loss. Writing to an output pin is pretty fast. The amount of time difference between firing a few step pulses in sync or firing them sequentially is on the order of a few microseconds. That won't make any difference to the motion fidelity of the printer's physical drivetrains. Somebody involved in the RAMBO design just thought it could be useful, and put a reference to it on the Wiki page (in the very first upload!) and it's never been clarified or removed from the Wiki page in the years since. \n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n1515,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tom van der Zanden,3.0576060275493275,5.170019681057478,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.2576023278269264,How to keep Z-axis motor from slipping when powered down,\"Because of the weight of my Z-axis and the relative ease of its motion, when the Z-axis motor is powered down the bed has a tendency to slip and fall down.\n\nObviously leaving the motor powered solves this problem, but that is not ideal.\n\nI am looking for some kind of solution that passively stops the Z-axis motor from slipping; some kind of brake or clutch. Ideally I'm looking for something that I can add onto my current motors and that I could print myself. Commercial solutions (preferably ones that could be replicated with a 3D printer) would also make valid answers.\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"The simple way to do this is to use a self-locking screw pitch. Pretty much any single-start thread using a sliding nut cannot be back-driven so the load will not fall. Normal 8x8 trapezoidal thread screws will easily back-drive because of the steep pitch. \n\nLikewise, a worm drive between the motor and Z stage will hold the load. You would want to switch from screws to belts for the main motion stage in that case though, to avoid having too much total gear reduction. \n\nBoth of these solutions will limit your maximum Z speed, of course. But they're simple and reliable. Clutches and brakes add a lot of complexity and must be actuated somehow. Designers who want the load to stay suspended almost always simply use single-start screws. \n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n1515,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tom van der Zanden,3.0576060275493275,5.170019681057478,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.2576023278269264,How to keep Z-axis motor from slipping when powered down,\"Because of the weight of my Z-axis and the relative ease of its motion, when the Z-axis motor is powered down the bed has a tendency to slip and fall down.\n\nObviously leaving the motor powered solves this problem, but that is not ideal.\n\nI am looking for some kind of solution that passively stops the Z-axis motor from slipping; some kind of brake or clutch. Ideally I'm looking for something that I can add onto my current motors and that I could print myself. Commercial solutions (preferably ones that could be replicated with a 3D printer) would also make valid answers.\n\",darth pixel,\"The first, the simplest and the chippest solution (as described by Ryan Carlyle) is to use self locking screw - no doubt. \n\nBut I understand you already have your printer. Changing screw (thread rod) is a bit complicated I suppose. As it also needs to change \"\"nuts\"\" and change control settings and so on and so on. So in my opinion, in your case, it's much simpler to change motor to one with break or at least the one with permanent magnets which would hold some torque to support your bed.\n\nAnother solution which would also not require to exchange your existing parts is to use kinda ratcher driven by solenoid which would work as a break when deenergized. Where to install it, how to ensure it will hold your bed or prevent your threded rod from rotating is another issue but all options I suggest doesn't need to destroy your existing construction. They all work as additional part.\n\nIf you would be so kind and reveal some photos of your design, it would simplify to find proper application of solenoid break.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n150,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,rahuldottech,1.0891412423578797,4.997667049777664,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Which are the strongest and most durable materials?,\"I am working on a robotics project and need to print some gears. These will probably by under a LOT of pressure. Which material/filament should I choose so that the gears don't wear off easily?\n\nPS: Newbie here...\n\nEDIT:\nAccording to my instuctor, it has to be some sort of plastic (not metal).\nIt also has to be lightweight...\n\",Dawny33,\"So, as you say you want to materials for printing robotics parts. And as you have not given any budget constraint, I would give you a list of materials which would help you achieve the task, and you can choose amongst them accordingly.\n\n\nPlastics: Basically used for building prototypes. Nylon Polyamide should be a choice for you.\n\n\n\n Polyamide 3D printing is achieved through SLS 3D printing. It offers\n strong and flexible prints. The upside of this material is that the\n printing technology requires minimum preparation of the 3D file before\n printing. There is no need for support. And it also offers the\n possibility to create intricate shapes and moving part in just one go.\n After the print the polyamide can be polished and dyed.\n\n\n\nMetals: Metals like Brass, Alumunium and Steel should be a good choice.\n\n\nBut, if I were to achieve your task, I would select carbon fiber. some details about it:\n\n\n Carbon fiber consists of 90% carbon atoms, each fiber is 10 times\n thinner than a human hair. Carbon is especially prized for its lack of\n combustibility and infusability but also by its incredible strength\n (stronger than steel) and ability to create flexible structure, light\n weight and corrosion resistance. Its melting temperature is 1500, this\n heat there are only carbon.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n150,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,rahuldottech,1.0891412423578797,4.997667049777664,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Which are the strongest and most durable materials?,\"I am working on a robotics project and need to print some gears. These will probably by under a LOT of pressure. Which material/filament should I choose so that the gears don't wear off easily?\n\nPS: Newbie here...\n\nEDIT:\nAccording to my instuctor, it has to be some sort of plastic (not metal).\nIt also has to be lightweight...\n\",Nir,\"Filaments that are intended for making parts that require strange should be rated by the manufacturer for strength and flexibility.\n\nYou need to calculate the required strength and then choose a material with higher rating\n\nFor example the rating for filaments made by Taulman are at http://www.taulman3d.com/how-to-choose.html?m\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n156,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Silver Quettier,4.255155677057378,3.856325384931162,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,0.7766301205685938,Are there biocompatible materials available to the general public?,\"I am currently working on parts for a custom prosthesis.\n\nMy main concern at the moment is to find biocompatible materials that can be 3D printed from a UP or a Reprap.\nThe piece would need to be in contact with the skin for extended periods of time, probably around 17 hours a day on average.\n\nThe main concerns I have are:\n\n\nSkin reactions caused by prolonged contact\nSkin reactions and bruising caused by friction\nDegradation of the materials due to prolonged exposure to skin secretions and sweat\nRisks of toxicity in the compounds generated by the aforementioned material degradation\n\n\nWhich materials can you recommend? \n\nAny extensive data (from testing) would be greatly appreciated.\n\",Adam Davis,\"There are printers designed for medical use, and the manufacturers supply them with varying levels of certification and testing, however I've not seen a filament manufacturer certify their material as bio-compatible separate from the printer. The printing process changes the material slightly in the best case (and significantly with poor temperature control or badly set parameters), so even if bio-compatible filament were found, the resulting product might not achieve the same level of bio-compatibility.\n\nIf your intent is to use hobbyist level machine for medical purposes, you might simply want to use an interface, such as a sock or a molded/cast polymer that you know to be bio-compatible between the printed part and the skin.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n156,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Silver Quettier,4.255155677057378,3.856325384931162,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,0.7766301205685938,Are there biocompatible materials available to the general public?,\"I am currently working on parts for a custom prosthesis.\n\nMy main concern at the moment is to find biocompatible materials that can be 3D printed from a UP or a Reprap.\nThe piece would need to be in contact with the skin for extended periods of time, probably around 17 hours a day on average.\n\nThe main concerns I have are:\n\n\nSkin reactions caused by prolonged contact\nSkin reactions and bruising caused by friction\nDegradation of the materials due to prolonged exposure to skin secretions and sweat\nRisks of toxicity in the compounds generated by the aforementioned material degradation\n\n\nWhich materials can you recommend? \n\nAny extensive data (from testing) would be greatly appreciated.\n\",Thiago Felipe Navarro,\"If you want to know something about what you are questioning, it is interesting to you to read http://e-nable.org/resources/prosthetics-students-consultation/\n\nThat's a link with complementary information how to print 3D as a volunteer.\n\nI know that is not enough information about products, but I believe Nylon is the best recommend because it is what generally printers are using, though.\n\nThis website supports information with Dr. Chang by the e-mail eagle01@rocketmail.com\n\nbut there insnt information about the components used in the prosthetics, but I know that Nylon is the best suited to it nowadays. \n\nIf you prefer there is a site with makers loging information about PETG:\nhttps://www.matterhackers.com/news/how-to-succeed-when-printing-with-petg-filament\n\",-2.0274084334862867,0.0\n162,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gregra,3.0576060275493275,4.253140339767968,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Online APIs for 3D printing services,\"I'm interested in finding online APIs where you could perform a call to some third party service with some print preparation request with my model (i.e. \"\"heal a model\"\" or \"\"set up support\"\") and get in return GCODE file I can send to a 3D printer.\nMy input will be :\n\n\nThe 3d model (obj, stl)\nMy printer (makerbot, ultimaker, whatever) or a printer profile\nA printing profile\n\n\nThis is opposed to all the classical 3D printing processes we have right now. Currently when printing in a 3D printer you would need to go through these phases:\n\n\nCreate/Download a model\nPrepare the model for printing with some 3rd party desktop software\nExport the model as gcode\nSave the file to some flash drive\nPlug the flash drive into the printer\nPrint the model with the printer interface\n\n\nI would like to know if this process can be simplified to a point where you can just print your model directly from your web browser without going through all these steps.\nI know I'm over simplifying things here, but I would still want to see if solutions like I suggested exist?\n\nThanks\n\",tbm0115,\"WiFi\n\nA few of the newer machines are coming stock with WiFi connectivity such as MakerBot Replicator(s)/Z18, da Vinci Jr., Kudo3D, and some others that I'm forgetting.\n\nHowever, these WiFi enabled machines essentially emulate what OctoPrint and AstroPrint provide. While wirelessly connecting might save the hassle of not saving a G-Code file to an SD card/Flashdrive, then plugging in said memory device, then selecting the program to run, the wireless solution still requires a slicer to do the work.\n\nBoth OctoPrint and AstroPrint allow building up a queue of sliced prints and I know that OctoPrint will even slice a 3D Print-ready model and place it in your queue.\n\nThe only application that I'm aware of that seems to reduce the most amount of work is MakerBot Desktop with a MakerBot Replicator/Z18. While MakerBot does not have a great reputation (as of 2016), they have produced some great software. As I understand, here's how you can utilize MakerBot Desktop:\n\nPrinting from Thingiverse\n\n\nLog into Thingiverse from MakerBot Desktop\nFind the model you want to print\nThere should be a handy Print button located in the interface\nThe software will preview the model. Most models that have been uploaded to Thingiverse will be in print-ready orientation/scaling \nContinue by pressing Print\nNow the software will slice the model and send the G-Code via USB or WiFi\n\n\nReally, the only step that MakerBot Desktop skips is downloading the model from your web browser.\n\nThere are some rare cases that models found on the internet (such as Thingiverse) will also have the sliced G-Code, but you'll have to be careful to make sure it's the correct flavor for your machine.\n\nMaybe in the future?\n\nCurrently, Microsoft is working on a new 3D printing file format called .3MF which theoretically could negate the need to slice a 3D model. I'm assuming that you would need a machine that specifically can interpret the file. This project is still very much in the works and it may be years before we see full support as the format needs to be agreed upon by both software companies like SolidWorks, AutoCAD, Catia, etc. AND the 3D printer manufacturers like MakerBot/Stratasys, 3D Systems, and other big-named companies.\n\nIf you combine the benefit of no longer needing to slice a model and WiFi/USB connection, then most of the \"\"manual\"\" work you describe will no longer be necessary.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n162,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gregra,3.0576060275493275,4.253140339767968,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Online APIs for 3D printing services,\"I'm interested in finding online APIs where you could perform a call to some third party service with some print preparation request with my model (i.e. \"\"heal a model\"\" or \"\"set up support\"\") and get in return GCODE file I can send to a 3D printer.\nMy input will be :\n\n\nThe 3d model (obj, stl)\nMy printer (makerbot, ultimaker, whatever) or a printer profile\nA printing profile\n\n\nThis is opposed to all the classical 3D printing processes we have right now. Currently when printing in a 3D printer you would need to go through these phases:\n\n\nCreate/Download a model\nPrepare the model for printing with some 3rd party desktop software\nExport the model as gcode\nSave the file to some flash drive\nPlug the flash drive into the printer\nPrint the model with the printer interface\n\n\nI would like to know if this process can be simplified to a point where you can just print your model directly from your web browser without going through all these steps.\nI know I'm over simplifying things here, but I would still want to see if solutions like I suggested exist?\n\nThanks\n\",tamarintech,\"There are a few methods to simplify your workflow. Two solutions are outlined below and both feature a documented API you can use to further customize your workflow.\n\nOctoPrint was mentioned by other users. OctoPrint will allow you to configure your printer, print profiles and upload STLs for printing from a web interface. You can configure profiles, slicers and slicer profiles for OctoPrint to use to complete your workflow.\n\nAstroprint offers cloud slicing services in addition to features allowing you to manage printers and print profiles.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n182,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tormod Haugene,4.030301511886631,5.538986584980417,0.0,4.022883302450398,4.503257053771732,3.535506697183007,Why do some models appear broken in slicing software?,\"In my slicing software (Slic3r) some of the vertices/walls of my model seem to have disappeared, so that the inside of the model - which should be solid - is visible, while the surface appears as a thin shell.\n\nWhy does this happen? Is it still safe to export the model for printing?\n\",tbm0115,\"My understanding is that this occurs when the object is not a true solid. Since an STL holds the triangulation of each face and spline, the slicing engine is not \"\"smart\"\" enough to determine if there is a gap in the model and therefore if it should be filled in and how. When the slicer encounters a gap, it will either treat the endpoint as the end of the feature or navigate to the next point on the layer, resulting in either gaps in the print or extra inclusions that don't make sense.\n\nI've noticed that my models will fail as a true solid when I use complex solid tools such as Union, Subtract, and Trim. A lot of times there will be a rounding error in how these tools interact with the solid model that will result in a small (sometimes not very small) gap in the outer shell of the solid model. When exported to an STL, the gap is retained. \n\",3.859531739127555,2.0769199823829045\n182,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tormod Haugene,4.030301511886631,5.538986584980417,0.0,4.022883302450398,4.503257053771732,3.535506697183007,Why do some models appear broken in slicing software?,\"In my slicing software (Slic3r) some of the vertices/walls of my model seem to have disappeared, so that the inside of the model - which should be solid - is visible, while the surface appears as a thin shell.\n\nWhy does this happen? Is it still safe to export the model for printing?\n\",kareem,\"Some STLs aren't exported properly from the CAD software.\n\nUse a repair tool or service like https://modelrepair.azurewebsites.net .\n\nThe repaired STL shouldn't have those issues anymore.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n203,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tormod Haugene,3.767809650974757,5.9843161428798055,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,How can I calculate volumetric speed for Slic3r auto speed?,\"I have noticed that Slic3r offers a speed setting called \"\"auto speed\"\" meant to give a constant filament pressure at the extruder, which I believe could eliminate filament grinding issues at higher printing speeds. \n\nAccording to the tooltip in Slic3r, auto speed is calculated from two parameters:\n\n\nMaximum speed\nMaximum volumetric speed\n\n\nMaximum speed speaks for itself, but how can I calculate the maximum volumetric speed of my print?\n\",Ian Williams,\"Auto speed is calculated from maximum volumetric speed in mm3 per second. If you normally print at 80 mm/s, your extrusion width is 0.5 mm and you are printing 0.2mm high layers, your volumetric speed would be 80 * 0.5 * 0.2 = 8 mm3/s, which is the volume of plastic extruded by your printer every second when printing at that speed (not accounting for any die swell).\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n203,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tormod Haugene,3.767809650974757,5.9843161428798055,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,How can I calculate volumetric speed for Slic3r auto speed?,\"I have noticed that Slic3r offers a speed setting called \"\"auto speed\"\" meant to give a constant filament pressure at the extruder, which I believe could eliminate filament grinding issues at higher printing speeds. \n\nAccording to the tooltip in Slic3r, auto speed is calculated from two parameters:\n\n\nMaximum speed\nMaximum volumetric speed\n\n\nMaximum speed speaks for itself, but how can I calculate the maximum volumetric speed of my print?\n\",4levels,\"There's no fixed maximum volumetric speed that works for everyone, there's simply too much variables to account for.\nBy using @Ian Williams explanation you can convert from volumetric to regular speeds but you still need to test what speed works best for your setup.\n\nJust a few of the other variables affecting how fast material can come out consistently: temperature (nozzle & heat brake), extruder motor power, path friction between extruder and hotend, material compressibility, fluidity and glass transition temperature, ..\n\nThere are interesting topics on RepRap forums, like this one: \n\nhttp://forums.reprap.org/read.php?262,654085\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n242,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tormod Haugene,3.0576060275493275,4.357071573034805,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Marlin menu navigation slow while printing,\"My Kossel Mini printer (delta) has RAMPS1.4/Arduino Mega electronics configured to use a standard 20x4 LCD display with Marlin during printing.\n\nOften, navigating the menus during print can be painfully slow, and I occasionally end up making the wrong selections due to lag.\n\nWithout starving the actual printing process of CPU resources, is there any way of speeding up the menu navigation?\n\",Adam Davis,\"A Delta printer requires constant complex calculations to produce straight lines while printing. The firmware, therefore, spends most of its time figuring out the step and timing sequence, and only the little remaining time between interrupts and these calculations is given to the user interface.\n\nMarlin doesn't document any configuration parameters that would improve the user interface responsiveness, and in any case such improvement must necessarily come at the cost of printing speed and/or accuracy. The processor is being used to its maximum capacity. The only thing you might be able to do is dig into the firmware and try to change it yourself, as this is not a clear option within Marlin.\n\nIf working with the user interface while printing is important to you, your next step should probably be to change to a faster 32 bit processor. There are a few firmwares available for ARM and other architectures which may resolve your situation.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n319,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tormod Haugene,2.8153892694839717,5.333193776357221,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How to smooth the surface of parts printed with Co-polyester (PET) filament,\"Are there any techniques for getting a smooth finish for parts printed with co-polyester (PET) filaments? More specifically, I am looking for an alternative that does not roughen the look of the part - such as using sandpaper - but rather works like acetone baths for ABS.\n\nIn particular, I want to treat ColorFabb's XT filament made from the Eastman Amphora™ 3D polymer (datasheet). This is also the polymer is also used in:\n\n\nColorFabb nGen and XT\nTaulman3D n-vent\nTripTech Athiri 1800\n3DXTech 3DXNano\n\n\",walter,\"Ethyl acetate (sold as a MEK substitute) is supposed to work for vapor smoothing PET. It doesn't seem very toxic (it's used to decaffinate cofee and tea, and as a nail polish remover), but you might want to look more into it. There's a post on Printed Solid's blog where he vapor smoothed colorFabb XT and MadeSolid PET+ along with a few other filaments and got some good results.\n\nhttp://printedsolid.com/blogs/news/37035395-vapor-smoothing-3d-printed-parts-pla-colorfabb-xt-t-glase-pet\n\nThe links in the blog don't work for me, but google was able to find slightly larger versions:\n\nhttps://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0887/0138/files/blog_2014-03-20-18.38.04-1024x613.jpg?16147388421280943481\n\nhttps://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0887/0138/files/blog_2014-03-21-18.16.28-1024x612.jpg?9543779874607042697\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n319,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tormod Haugene,2.8153892694839717,5.333193776357221,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How to smooth the surface of parts printed with Co-polyester (PET) filament,\"Are there any techniques for getting a smooth finish for parts printed with co-polyester (PET) filaments? More specifically, I am looking for an alternative that does not roughen the look of the part - such as using sandpaper - but rather works like acetone baths for ABS.\n\nIn particular, I want to treat ColorFabb's XT filament made from the Eastman Amphora™ 3D polymer (datasheet). This is also the polymer is also used in:\n\n\nColorFabb nGen and XT\nTaulman3D n-vent\nTripTech Athiri 1800\n3DXTech 3DXNano\n\n\",tjb1,\"I've found a chart which covers several plastics and solvents and only two of them (Chloromethane and Chloroform) are rated \"\"D\"\" which includes dissolving the material and both seem to be quite nasty and I doubt you will be able to purchase them without being placed on several lists.\n\nIs it possible that something like XTC-3D from Smooth-On would work for you?\n\nAlso some more information on dissolving PET here, several sources also mention PET is affected by Hydrogen Peroxide but they do not mention to what degree the plastic is affected.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n322,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tormod Haugene,4.255155677057378,6.541066110264135,4.072585167927022,5.199501240805782,4.240216107868139,3.781165763942034,How to achieve dimensional accuracy of printed parts,\"When designing parts that should either fit with external objects or other printed parts, what measures can one take to ensure that the dimensions of the final print are accurate and fit the other object?\n\nTo my knowledge, you at least have two options to account for printer inaccuracy and shrinkage:\n\n\nAdjust the space around joints in your CAD model\nAdjust dimensional offsets in your slicer software\n\n\nAre there any good workflows one can use to design and print 3D-models accurately without resorting to trial and error?\n\",tjb1,\"I think the best way to go about this would be to calibrate your printer and slicer as best you can. One of my pet peeves is when people upload STLs that have been adjusted to fit their printer/material. There are many suppliers of material that vary in quality as well as many materials and different printers that the tolerances shouldn't be built into the part because in the end it usually just makes it harder for others attempting to print the model.\n\nIf you aren't sharing models then all I can say is you are still better off to calibrate your printer and tune your slicer to your material. You'll have more luck with models from other people and have an easier time designing your own. \n\nIf you still have trouble then modifying the model is probably the last option. I don't know of any CAD programs that can work with problems 3D printers have so experience is going to be your only help. I know in Inventor you can go around and Thicken/Offset individual surfaces of the model to compensate or if you had a percentage for your shrinkage you could get creative with formulas in the sketches.\n\",3.5068404193471867,2.0769199823829045\n322,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tormod Haugene,4.255155677057378,6.541066110264135,4.072585167927022,5.199501240805782,4.240216107868139,3.781165763942034,How to achieve dimensional accuracy of printed parts,\"When designing parts that should either fit with external objects or other printed parts, what measures can one take to ensure that the dimensions of the final print are accurate and fit the other object?\n\nTo my knowledge, you at least have two options to account for printer inaccuracy and shrinkage:\n\n\nAdjust the space around joints in your CAD model\nAdjust dimensional offsets in your slicer software\n\n\nAre there any good workflows one can use to design and print 3D-models accurately without resorting to trial and error?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"Unfortunately, different firmwares and different slicers require different calibration techniques! There's a lot of software-specific advice out there, like printing a single-wall calibration box and measuring the wall thickness. That's a good technique for Slic3r, but not for Simplify3D. It can be very confusing.\n\nHere's the general outline of what you should do:\n\n\nRough calibration check for printer steps/mm. Do the values in your firmware settings make sense for your linear motion hardware? For example, you can calculate what the theoretical values SHOULD be based on belt pitch and pulley tooth count. Print something moderately big (~100-200mm) and check if it's +/-1-2%. If it's off by more than that, your steps/mm is probably wrong.\nCheck for mechanical backlash using a backlash-checking print like this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:252490 Tighten belts and perform other printer-specific tuning required to eliminate backlash. Backlash will throw off other calibration steps, so make sure there's no slop!\nFollow the recommended extrusion volume calibration steps for your slicer. This starts with measuring your filament diameter with calipers and inputting that into your slicer. And then you will usually either \"\"print a single-walled box and measure the thickness\"\" or \"\"print a series of 100% infill calibration boxes and adjust the extrusion multiplier to the largest value that looks good without bulging.\"\" By measuring filament diameter and then adjusting an extrusion calibration setting in the slicer, you will be able to measure future filament and prints will come out right. Giving the slicer fake diameter values will force you to recalibrate every time the diameter changes. Note that you must redo this calibration for each FILAMENT MATERIAL and EXTRUDER DESIGN. Different material/extruder pairs will have different bite depths and effective drive diameter.\nPrecision calibration check by printing a variety of object sizes and PLOTTING \"\"desired size\"\" as X and \"\"actual size\"\" as Y. Then find a linear fit equation, y=mx+b. (Do this separately for your printer's X, Y, and Z axes.) The value \"\"m\"\" is your scale error. You can use your slicer object scaling to fix this. For example, ABS usually requires 100.3-101% scaling to account for shrinkage. If you have scale error with a low-shrinkage material like PLA, you can adjust your firmware's steps/mm value to compensate. The value \"\"b\"\" is your fixed width error. Assuming you don't have backlash, this is usually caused by the small amount that molten plastic bulges out to the sides, or by extrusion volume calibration error. You can improve this by fine-tuning your extrusion volume. Many slicers also have \"\"horizontal/XY size compensation\"\" settings that you can use to shrink/expand the part by b/2 to correct the fixed width error. Any residual fixed-width error that you cannot correct with slicer settings should be added as a tolerance in your part models. \n\n\nIf you follow these steps, you should get +/-0.1mm or better dimensional precision on your prints.*\n\n*Deltas not included. That's a whole other ball of wax. \n\",3.6340916038470805,0.0\n191,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bad_Bishop,3.267423727073639,3.951975367305921,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,4.731113485304429,3.7944212186119723,What criteria do I need to be aware of when buying a 3D printer for personal use?,\"I'm interested in designing & 3D printing as a hobby (e.g. printing chess sets, small toys for family etc.)\n\nConducting a Google search has brought up a range of small, cheap printers, but beyond that I don't know how to differentiate them.\n\nE.g. selling points include:\n\n\n\"\"liquid light-sensitive resin\"\"\n\"\"partially assembled\"\" with \"\"very few parts and minor configuration\"\"\n\"\"Wi-Fi enabled\"\"\n\n\nMy question is, which features are going to benefit a small-scale, new enthusiast to 3D printing?\n\nPS. The software I intend to use is Windows 10 3D design\n\nPPS. I'm not a graphic designer by any means, just a new enthusiast.\n\",masteusz,\"Here are few things to consider from my point of view\n\n\n\nPrinting technology\n\nThe first thing that you need to take into account is printing technology. The most common[citation needed] right now is Fused Filament Fabrication. \"\"Liquid light-sensitive resin\"\" is being used in Stereolitography and Digital Light Processing - the SLA printers I found are less common and more expensive than FFF ones.\n\n\n\nPrice\n\nNeed to decide on budget. You can buy printer for 60k USD and 400 USD. Quality is somehow linked to price but that's not a rule. You can buy a shitty printer for a lot of money.\n\n\n\nPrinting area\n\nBigger allows you to print bigger things. You need to ask yourself how big things you really want to print. Remember that 3d printing is quite slow process - how often you will want to print big things that will take 60hrs+ to finish?\n\n\n\nPrinting materials\n\nWhat kind of materials you want to print with? Some materials will need higher temperatures so check the max hot-end temperature, some will require heated bed.\n\n\n\nAssembled or DIY kit\n\nYou can usually get kits for self-assembly cheaper than Ready-To-Print machines. However, it will require additional skills (i.e. soldering), tools and time to assemble. I am not sure if I would buy DIY kit for commercial use, but as an enthusiast I immensely enjoyed putting my Rostock Max together.\n\n\n\nReviews and reputation\n\nIt is generally safe to buy printer that already has some users. Beware of new magical Kickstarter printers which will \"\"change the 3d printing forever\"\".\nReddit /r/3dprinting suggests that your new printer should meet 3 criteria:\n\n\nPrinter passes the youtube test - has lots of youtube evidence that this particular printer is working.\nPrinter is out of the pre-order phase. This means that all pre-orders have been delivered.\nPrinter has a reputation of working well among current users.\n\n\nI found it to be a very good set of rules.\n\n\n\nUpgrade capabilities\n\nThat's very user-dependent, but this point is very important to me. I want to be able to change and improve certain parts of my printer. Check if you can switch the extruder, replace the hot-end etc. \n\n\n\nSupport\n\nI think one of the most important points. See if you can find a forum for your printer and how active community is. It will be immensely helpful if something goes wrong (and it will).\nAlso, company support is very important. What will happen if you need a replacement part or your printer will stop working altogether?\n\n\n\nThis list is definitely not complete.\nThere are many more things that might be taken into account like configuration (delta or XY), multiple extruders, closed cases etc.\n\",4.0548168669725735,2.0769199823829045\n191,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bad_Bishop,3.267423727073639,3.951975367305921,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,4.731113485304429,3.7944212186119723,What criteria do I need to be aware of when buying a 3D printer for personal use?,\"I'm interested in designing & 3D printing as a hobby (e.g. printing chess sets, small toys for family etc.)\n\nConducting a Google search has brought up a range of small, cheap printers, but beyond that I don't know how to differentiate them.\n\nE.g. selling points include:\n\n\n\"\"liquid light-sensitive resin\"\"\n\"\"partially assembled\"\" with \"\"very few parts and minor configuration\"\"\n\"\"Wi-Fi enabled\"\"\n\n\nMy question is, which features are going to benefit a small-scale, new enthusiast to 3D printing?\n\nPS. The software I intend to use is Windows 10 3D design\n\nPPS. I'm not a graphic designer by any means, just a new enthusiast.\n\",Curtis,\"The number one most important thing about a 3-d printer is the Extruder/PrintHead component. If these are buggy, the printer is worthless. Seems like most printers are pretty good with everything else. The place that they die is in the Extruder/Print Head assembly.\n\nThe second most important thing is quality of the plastic parts. One nice thing about that is you can usually reprint the plastic parts by going to thingiverse.com and downloading them. \n\nSo, I'm on my 2nd printer. I returned the first one to amazon and may very well return the second one. It is a frustrating game. On thing I notice is that VERY FEW printers have a LOT of ratings. Some might have 4 stars, but only 8 votes... The latest one I have had 200+ votes but a 3.5 rating. If you have 200+ votes and anything below 4.2, you've got an inconsistent and potentially crappy product.\n\nSo, to sum up, Get details on the extruder. Does it cool properly, is the design such that the filament is properly driven and pushed? Is the hot head the only hot part, or is the tube getting heated too. Does the extruder throat near the hot head have a Teflon tube inside it?\n\nRead the ratings on Amazon, read the bad reviews and then look at the pictures of the product to verify them.\n\nBest of luck.. I'm about to return #2 printer and perhaps part out #3. Not quite sure yet..\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n198,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,3.618048892289167,5.398601673240336,3.507933925167123,4.022883302450398,4.091740895605862,3.322464497796202,Tips for not burning out my Arduino Mega or catching something on fire when wiring a Prusa i3?,\"I'm reading about wiring up the electronic components to my Prusa i3 using an Arduino Mega 2650 and Ramps 1.4.\n\nI have step sticks, a heated bed, and a Switching Power Supply 12v Dc 30a 360w (more details on that later when I can add which ones to the post).\n\nI've heard that if you wire it wrong and plug it in, you can do anything from starting a fire to burning out your boards.\n\nWhat are some tips of things to check before plugging it in? Are there any common mistakes that I can avoid?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"\nPolarity matters, sometimes. Be especially mindful of the wires from your power supply to the board, as getting those the wrong way around will definitely cause damage. Heated beds and extruders are not polarity sensitive, and can go in either way. Fans are polarized, but will probably survive if you get them backwards - they just won't run. Stepper motors don't care about polarity, flipping the connector around just makes them run backwards.\nTake special care with endstops. The endstop connectors have 3 pins (VCC, 5V and signal), endstops with 2 pins are usually connect to GND and signal. Putting a 2-pin endstop across 5V and GND will destroy the 5V regulator.\nA common cause of damage is wires not being clamped in their respective terminals properly. The offending wire will arc, melting and destroying the connector. Tighten down screw terminals properly, use proper crimps if you have them. Soldering the ends of wires going into screw terminals is not encouraged, but if you do solder the ends then make sure to check after a while and tighten the screws again.\nPut the stepper drivers in the right way around.\nFor things like the heated bed and wires going to your power supply, use sufficiently thick wires. Especially with the heated bed, a lot of current flows through the wires and flimsy wires will heat up and melt.\n\n\",3.5068404193471867,2.0769199823829045\n198,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,3.618048892289167,5.398601673240336,3.507933925167123,4.022883302450398,4.091740895605862,3.322464497796202,Tips for not burning out my Arduino Mega or catching something on fire when wiring a Prusa i3?,\"I'm reading about wiring up the electronic components to my Prusa i3 using an Arduino Mega 2650 and Ramps 1.4.\n\nI have step sticks, a heated bed, and a Switching Power Supply 12v Dc 30a 360w (more details on that later when I can add which ones to the post).\n\nI've heard that if you wire it wrong and plug it in, you can do anything from starting a fire to burning out your boards.\n\nWhat are some tips of things to check before plugging it in? Are there any common mistakes that I can avoid?\n\",Tooniis,\"Adding to the other answers:\n\n\nALWAYS power-off the printer completely and make sure it is not receiving any power from any source (could be receiving power from USB after you turned the power supply off).\nAvoid loose wires, and before powering the printer on make sure every wire is connected in the right place. Loose wires can cause damage even if not powered if they get under the PCBs, where they can cause shorts. I fried an Arduino Mega this way.\nNever mix between 12v and 5v supply/output wires. Connecting an output wire of the wrong voltage will usually cause damage only to the part receiving power, while connecting a supply wire of the wrong voltage can cause severe damage to many components at once.\nKeep all wires organised. That will help you understand which wire is connected to what quickly, and will help you do what is mentioned in #2 and #3.\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n294,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,3.267423727073639,3.8003227302020064,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,How is a J-Head Extruder Head attached to the Prusa i3 rework?,\"I am building a Prusa i3 Rework, and I haven't been able to find out how to attach my J-Head extruder (see below), at the moment it's just kind of held there by pressure, but it seems there are two holes on ether side of it; not sure if they're meant to hold it in place, but it seems that way. \n\n\n\nAny suggestions as to what I should use to hold it in place? This is definitely a part that gets moved around alot.\n\nupdate\n\n\n\",tjb1,\"It looks like the hotend may not be all the way in, are you sure it's not stuck?\n\nIf it's stuck and you can get it in further, those holes should go directly through the smaller ring on top of the J-Head. You just need to run a machine screw into each hole to secure the hotend. The screw will need to at least be flush with the other side to work correctly.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n296,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,3.267423727073639,4.888393101987145,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,Are these the right types of electrical connectors for hooking my Switching Power Supply up to a wall outlet?,\"From what I understand, when you hook up the Switching Power Supply 12v Dc 30a 360w to the wall outlet, you have to be very careful; careful not to get the wires mixed up; careful not to have anyone or anything touch the leads (in fact the first proper project I intend to print out will be a casing to fit around the switching power supply), or just order one from someone. \n\nNow there are three wires that go into the US wall of particular concern, and these wires come out of a standard PC cable with the female end cut off, and they hook the power supply. Like the external casing, these three wires are also insulated, and when you take the insulation off the bare wires and connect it to the power supply, you have to use Electrical connectors of some sort to connect them to the power supply's screw leads.\n\nI bought some electrical connectors just for this purpose, but I'm not entirely certain they will be good for this purpose, so I thought I'd check here first.\n\n\n\nThere are specifications on the back:\n\n╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬\n╬ ╬ AWG ╬ Wire Size ╬ Stud Size ╬\n╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬\n╬ Spade Terminals ╬\n╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬\n╬ YF1.25-35 (red) ╬ 22-16 ╬ 0.5-1.5 ╬ 3.7 ╬\n╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬\n╬ Ring Terminals ╬\n╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬\n╬ YF1.25-4 (red) ╬ 22-16 ╬ .5-1.5 ╬ 4.3 ╬\n╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬\n╬ Butt Splice ╬\n╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬\n╬ BF-1.2SS (red) ╬ 22-16 ╬ .5-1.5 ╬ n/a ╬\n╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬\n\n\nNot sure if I should use ring or spade terminals, and I don't know what wire size to use; and I don't know what wire grade is inside a standard PC power cord or even if these are safe connectors to use for this.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"It is okay to just use bare wires in the type of screw connector found on your power supply. They're designed for it; they have a little plate under the screw that prevents the wires from being frayed by the screw.\n\nIf you want neater wire termination, you should use one of the spade type ones. Pick the smallest size that fits your wires.\n\nPC power cords are generally fitted with an IEC C13 plug, and those are rated for 10A (meaning also the wires themselves will be able to carry at least that much current). This is fine for any home 3D printer which usually draws a fraction of that.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n296,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,3.267423727073639,4.888393101987145,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,Are these the right types of electrical connectors for hooking my Switching Power Supply up to a wall outlet?,\"From what I understand, when you hook up the Switching Power Supply 12v Dc 30a 360w to the wall outlet, you have to be very careful; careful not to get the wires mixed up; careful not to have anyone or anything touch the leads (in fact the first proper project I intend to print out will be a casing to fit around the switching power supply), or just order one from someone. \n\nNow there are three wires that go into the US wall of particular concern, and these wires come out of a standard PC cable with the female end cut off, and they hook the power supply. Like the external casing, these three wires are also insulated, and when you take the insulation off the bare wires and connect it to the power supply, you have to use Electrical connectors of some sort to connect them to the power supply's screw leads.\n\nI bought some electrical connectors just for this purpose, but I'm not entirely certain they will be good for this purpose, so I thought I'd check here first.\n\n\n\nThere are specifications on the back:\n\n╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬\n╬ ╬ AWG ╬ Wire Size ╬ Stud Size ╬\n╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬\n╬ Spade Terminals ╬\n╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬\n╬ YF1.25-35 (red) ╬ 22-16 ╬ 0.5-1.5 ╬ 3.7 ╬\n╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬\n╬ Ring Terminals ╬\n╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬\n╬ YF1.25-4 (red) ╬ 22-16 ╬ .5-1.5 ╬ 4.3 ╬\n╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬\n╬ Butt Splice ╬\n╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬\n╬ BF-1.2SS (red) ╬ 22-16 ╬ .5-1.5 ╬ n/a ╬\n╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬\n\n\nNot sure if I should use ring or spade terminals, and I don't know what wire size to use; and I don't know what wire grade is inside a standard PC power cord or even if these are safe connectors to use for this.\n\",Matt Clark,\"The block on the supply will accept the bare wire\n\n\n\nyou could use the yellow in the middle on the right, but the screw on the block essentially does its own crimp.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n309,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,2.1782824847157594,2.5245875148292196,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,\"My endstops have 4 female plugs, but the examples on the RepRap Prusa i3 Site have 3; what are each of them for?\",\"\n\nThe Sainsmart Endstops I picked up are different from the ones described in the RepRap Prusa i3 Rework electronics assembly wiki; they have 4 female plugs that go into the RAMPS 1.4 board instead of 3:\n\n\n\nSince these endstops are different, how do I hook them up, and what do the markings on them mean?\n\",tjb1,\"The website shows exactly what each wire is for. Both middle wires are ground, the wire on the same side as the lever is the signal wire and the last wire is the power wire.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n352,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,3.452496054252184,5.576616002271392,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.749318730431847,4.208576161768494,Is this fuse a good choice for my Prusa i3's power supply and RAMPS 1.4?,\"Wondering if this fuse is safe to use in this switch/plug to turn on /off a 12V DC 30A Power Supply 360W Power Supply that will power a RAMPS 1.4 board for a Prusa i3 with an external led display that contains an SD Card Reader.\n\nI found the suggestion to use it here.\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"No, do not use this fuse. The current rating is too high to be reasonable for your printer. It will \"\"work\"\" in the sense that your printer will get power, but it won't provide anywhere near as much protection as a lower-rated fuse. \n\n10A is a lot of current for mains voltage. Depending on what else you have plugged in, there is a fair chance your home's 15A breaker will trip before this fuse does, which kind of defeats the point of having it. \n\nEven for \"\"fast\"\" fuses, it takes a significant amount of time for them to blow when conducting their rated current. The internal fusible link has to heat up and melt before the fuse stops conducting. The less the overload current exceeds the rating, the longer that takes. A 10A fuse conducting a 10.5A short might take 30 seconds to trip. In the meantime, your printer is melting. Lower-rated fuses will trip faster for the same short and thus provide better protection. \n\nYou need to size fuses as small as possible for the required current draw if you want to have any hope of rapidly cutting off an excessive-current event.\n\nI would recommend a 4A fuse in the USA for this 350w power supply. (Note: the listing title says 360 but the photos show 350.) I use 4A fuses in several printers with 120v / 350w PSUs and they do not trip. But you can do the math for yourself:\n\n350 watts / 120 volts / 80% efficiency = 3.64A\n\nThe smallest fuse you can find that is larger than this value is what you should use. \n\nNow, we can argue over whether 80% is the right efficiency value... it could be lower. The PSU label says 6.5A input is required, but that amount of current draw implies either a <50% efficiency (which is quite poor for this kind of PSU) or would only occur for abuse/surge scenarios like starting very large motors. Such short-lived inrush events generally won't trip a fuse unless you do something dumb like lock the rotor. And none of that applies to the small microstepping-driver stepper motor systems we're working with here. This PSU should not draw more than 4A in normal 3D printer use.\n\nLooking at this on the other end -- how much damage will 10A do versus 4A? Lots. If the short is in the 12v system, and the PSU's short protection doesn't trip in (because it's a cheap knock-off) you would roughly multiply the AC fuse current times 10 to get the DC current. And 40A is a downright scary amount of current! Depending on wire gauge, putting 40A through heatbed wiring may make it smell and smoke. Whereas putting 100A through heatbed wiring will almost certainly start a fire. \n\nYou're much safer with a 4A or even 6A fuse for this PSU than a 10A fuse. \n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n389,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,2.1782824847157594,3.510789227224567,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,\"In the standard PC Cable Wire that goes from the wall outlet to the switching power supply, are they standard and what are the wire specifications?\",\"What are the specifications of the three wires inside a PC cable that is used to connect the switching power supply to a US AC outlet.\n\nThe positive, negative and ground appear to be the same gauge stranded cable, and I've heard that it can handle 10A, but beyond that I don't really know what the rest of the specifications for the wire are.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"It's somewhat unclear what you mean by \"\"standard PC cable\"\", but virtually all desktop computers use IEC C14 sockets/IEC C13 plugs. Such connectors/sockets are rated for 10A 250V and thus you can safely assume that the cord itself will also be able to handle this voltage and current. 10A is what is specified by the IEC, certain North American standards agencies rate C13 cords for up to 15A.\n\nThe IEC standard also specifies that the conductors inside of a C13 lead have a cross sectional area of at least 0.75mm^2 and at least 1mm^2 if the cord is longer than 2m.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n389,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,2.1782824847157594,3.510789227224567,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,\"In the standard PC Cable Wire that goes from the wall outlet to the switching power supply, are they standard and what are the wire specifications?\",\"What are the specifications of the three wires inside a PC cable that is used to connect the switching power supply to a US AC outlet.\n\nThe positive, negative and ground appear to be the same gauge stranded cable, and I've heard that it can handle 10A, but beyond that I don't really know what the rest of the specifications for the wire are.\n\",the third dimension,\"Very basically speaking, electricity works like this:\n\n\nThere's some source that delivers a certain voltage.\nYou have a device that operates at a certain voltage. The device voltage and supply voltage should always match. No, don't put that 120V US device in a 230V outlet in Europe.\nThe device does something. By doing something it draws current. Most devices also draw some current when not doing anything.\nHow much power your device draws is the product of these two values:voltage x current = power \n\n\nSo far, so good. In your case:\n\n\n\n US AC outlet.\n\n\nthe voltage is 120V.\nOn this other question of yours you linked to this power\nsupply on amazon. Besides being available gift-wrapped, it\nstates the following feature:\n\n\n You can choose the input voltage (110V/240V) by switch.\n\n\n110V ≈ 120V, which means the device voltage matches your supply\nvoltage.\nThe supply can deliver 30A at 12V on the DC side which means 360W.\nIf it could transform the electricity ideally, without any\ninefficiency, that would be 3A at 120V on the AC side. But your\nsupply is unlikely ideal. Wikipedia suggests 60-95% efficiency.\nLet's be super pessimistic and assume 50%. That means half the power\nthat goes into the switch power supply is turned into heat. In order\nto still get the 360W out, you have to insert 720W. That means\nyour device draws 6A on the AC side.\n\n\nWhat does this all mean for your wire?\nWhat wire size do you need for this supply?\n\nCoincidentally, the above link to the amazon website showing your power supply also suggests the following PC ATX power supplies to me:\n\n\nSentey Power Supply 725 Watt\nSentey Power Supply 1000 Watt\n\n\nLet's get this straight: You can buy a power supply for a PC and plug it into your outlet without even thinking about what a wire size is. You'd just plug and play. That PC power supply will potentially draw more current than the power supply of your 3D printer. A standard wire would be able to supply either one of the PC ATX power supplies linked above and would not have a problem delivering a lower current to the power supply of your 3D printer.\n\nThe switching supply doesn't have a plug like a PC ATX supply, but that on its own doesn't make it any less secure (if wired up properly). It's just less common for household appliances.\n\n\n Ultimately, I'd like to avoid a fire, or damage to the house wiring.\n\n\nThat's a good and valid concern. \n\nPC Power supplies deliver 12V and supply more than enough current (like the examples above). They are probably in use in your house already and did neither set it on fire nor damage the house wiring.\n\nA switching mode power supply is just as secure and if bought from a known brand unlikely to do you any harm either if used properly and within its specifications.\n\nUltimately, this is not a question of secure electricity but a trade-off between secure electricity and the price to pay for it. The standard wire and it's specifications have little to do with this.\n\n\n\nPersonally, I also use a cheap switching power supply made in china for my printer. It's very noisy and I pull the plug when I leave it unattended.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n394,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,3.452496054252184,3.3621123551116554,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,3.322464497796202,\"When building a RAMPS 1.4 based printer, can I safely plugin just some of the components to test if they are working?\",\"If I need to test out some of the components of a RAMPS 1.4 based 3D Printer, can I only plug some of them into the board (not all of them) and test them out?\n\nI'd like to test out the NEMA 17 motors without testing the heated bed or extruder. Is this safe and why?\n\",TextGeek,\"As others have also said, this is generally fine. The main things I'd avoid are:\n\n\nDon't plug or unplug \"\"heavy\"\" items (mainly motors and heaters) with power on; turn everything off first. This is especially true for motors, whose coils produce a hefty back-voltage when disconnected.\nBe extra careful about stepper drivers. For example, some printers use 2 motors for Z, so if you test each axis against one driver, the current requirement may be quite different for each axis.\nPlugging in a limit switch backwards on RAMPS is likely to short +5V straight to ground, which is worth avoiding.\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n394,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,3.452496054252184,3.3621123551116554,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,3.322464497796202,\"When building a RAMPS 1.4 based printer, can I safely plugin just some of the components to test if they are working?\",\"If I need to test out some of the components of a RAMPS 1.4 based 3D Printer, can I only plug some of them into the board (not all of them) and test them out?\n\nI'd like to test out the NEMA 17 motors without testing the heated bed or extruder. Is this safe and why?\n\",Kevin Morse,\"If by components you mean motors, fans, or heated bed, then yes. This is even suggested in the Final Setup instructions on the RAMPS wiki.\n\n\n If you think you may have mistakes (in your setup) you can install only one stepper driver during initial testing and risk only one stepper driver.\n\n\nThere are also printers using RAMPS with no heated bed and other machines that have no extruder at all. Furthermore, from an electronics perspective: if nothing is connected across a terminal no current will flow and therefore there is no damage that can be done. Obviously if you short out the unused connections there will be problems.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n402,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,3.452496054252184,4.504592436440091,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,3.082726318457765,How to use a multimeter to test how many amps RAMPS is pulling?,\"This is in with my other question about components and the other question about electricity; how can I check to see how many amps are being pulled? Can I check a component at a time to make sure I'm not going over the limit, and then just add them all in together once I've summed the amps to make sure it's safe to hook everything up. The amps shouldn't change right? \n\nWhat settings should my multimeter be set to? And to check how much it's pulling, do I just put the multimeter's leads on the green terminals on RAMPS 1.4?\n\",TextGeek,\"To measure amps (current), the meter has to be wired in series with the item to be measured (for this reason, ammeters are designed to have very low resistance). \n\nThis has the down-side that you have to disconnect the component to put the meter in line with it. That makes it hard to do the \"\"check a component at a time\"\" method you mentioned.\n\nAn ammeter measures actual current flow, so you really can't test a component for it in isolation. Components can have wildly different \"\"current draw\"\" depending on the situation. For example, motor current varies with torque and speed; current through a resistor varies with the voltage across it; and so on.\n\nThere are special \"\"clamp-on\"\" current meters that just clamp around a conductor and report the current by using induction. Very nice if you have one.\n\nIf you just want the total current the entire RAMPS board is pulling, put the ammeter between the power supply and the RAMPS power input connection(s). Be very sure not to have the meter set to read volts or ohms when you do this (it might or might not survive).\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n402,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,3.452496054252184,4.504592436440091,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,3.082726318457765,How to use a multimeter to test how many amps RAMPS is pulling?,\"This is in with my other question about components and the other question about electricity; how can I check to see how many amps are being pulled? Can I check a component at a time to make sure I'm not going over the limit, and then just add them all in together once I've summed the amps to make sure it's safe to hook everything up. The amps shouldn't change right? \n\nWhat settings should my multimeter be set to? And to check how much it's pulling, do I just put the multimeter's leads on the green terminals on RAMPS 1.4?\n\",Daniel M.,\"If you don't want to stick a multimeter on the wire, I recommend getting a kill-a-watt meter. Pretty much, you plug it into the wall, and plug the printer into the meter, and it has a little screen that shows the result.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n403,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,3.452496054252184,6.010742456340547,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.859356439026359,How do I wire the z-axis motors in parallel on the Prusa i3?,\"There is a little circuit board, or breadboard or something in the diagram of the wiring for the i3.\n\nAnd it's mentioned that the z-axis motors need to be wired in parallel but beyond that they don't give you much detail about parts or how the wires go in. \n\nCan someone provide me with some more detail on this?\n\",TextGeek,\"In the diagram, they do show the wires connecting together, which is right. You can accomplish that just about any way you like, so long as you pair up the wires correctly from one motor to the other.\n\nI'm assuming both \"\"Z\"\" motors are the same type and have the same color-coding for their wires. If not, you'll need to figure out the correspondences first (you may want to post another question if you need a hand with that, since it's pretty specific and generally useful).\n\nMany control boards have \"\"headers\"\" sticking up, with 4 bare pins for each motor. Connectors that plug right onto those are readily available, such as at https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10364.\n\nSome ways you can wire the motors in parallel:\n\n\nSome control boards, like my RAMPS 1.4, provide 2 sets of header pins next to the Z stepper driver board. In that case, just put a connector on each motor (if they're not there already), and plug them in next to each other.\nIf there's just one set of header pins (or one Z-motor socket of some other kind) on your controller, make a \"\"Y-cord\"\" by soldering the wires from one connector (that plugs to the controller) to 2 4 pin connectors, one to mate with each motor.\nOr you can skip the 2 extra connectors entirely, and just solder the motor wires to the wires from the connector: 2 reds to red, 2 blacks to black, or whatever.\nIf your controller just has empty holes, either solder in header pins and do as above (preferred, IMHO), or wire directly into the holes, splicing the 2 sets of motor wires if there's only one set of holes.\n\n\nMotor and connector wires are wildly inconsistent, so make sure you get them sorted out right if they aren't already. The first thing is to check continuity: find 2 pairs of wires, which are the ends of two separate coils. If your motors have more than 4 wires it's trickier.\n\nWith RAMPS (see handy diagram RAMPS 1.4 RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu shield), \n\n\n\nthe 4 pins are commonly labelled (starting from the one nearest the power-supply end of the RAMPS board):\n\n2B 2A 1A 1B\n\n\nIt means coil 1 and coil 2, each of which has ends A and B. I find this unclear because it could just as well have been numbers for the coils, and letters for the ends (if you wire it that way it won't work). So be sure you have continuity (maybe 15 ohms or so) between the wires you connect to 2B and 2A, and between the wires you connect to 1A and 1B.\n\nThe really good thing about this pin order is that if a motor is running backwards all you have to do is power off and then turn the plug around. That's one reason I think it's important to keep connectors in there, rather than soldering directly.\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n403,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,3.452496054252184,6.010742456340547,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.859356439026359,How do I wire the z-axis motors in parallel on the Prusa i3?,\"There is a little circuit board, or breadboard or something in the diagram of the wiring for the i3.\n\nAnd it's mentioned that the z-axis motors need to be wired in parallel but beyond that they don't give you much detail about parts or how the wires go in. \n\nCan someone provide me with some more detail on this?\n\",Serge Rabyking,\"For some unknown reason, everywhere everybody is saying that Z stepper motors need to be connected in parallel... And this was always the only obvious way, until recently some people started to connect these motors in series.\n\nAnd I personally started to believe the right way is to connect them in series.\n\nAll stepstick drivers are some kind of current limiting devices (you could read more about chopper mode). It is all about current.\nConnecting in series will guarantee that both motors receive the same current in all situations. And as result you could expect the same behaviour from both of them.\n\nThe bad thing when they are in parallel, is that the motor with the bigger load will get more current and as a result the other one will get less current and could skip steps. Of course, in an ideal situation, this should never happen but don't forget about Murphy's law (\"\"whatever can go wrong, will go wrong\"\").\n\nOne more thing - why did I change my wiring and connected my Z motors in series: At some moment I found that one Z motor was disconnected but the other one was working and this resulted in a broken printer geometry. When Z motors are in series and if one of them fails or disconnects, the other one will not work either. You will get always synchronous operation from both of them!\n\nI made this Z splitter that works fantastic: \n\n\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n502,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,2.8153892694839717,3.8339662240819474,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,How to properly use Polyisocyanurate (PIR) foam with the heated bed?,\"From what I understand, it takes a really long time for the heated bed to heat up using an MK2a heated bed. I've heard some people suggest that using Polyisocyanurate (PIR) foam (insulation that takes quite a bit of heat to catch on fire) can be used under the headed bed to make it heat up faster. \n\nNow of course there are other methods for doing this too, for instance using a larger power supply, but at this point I'd rather just use the parts that I have without re-soldering many of the components on the RAMPS board. \n\nI was wondering what a proper way to attach this to the bed would be for instance, should the springs go on the bottom or on the top of the bed? Do I need some extra parts? Are there any other considerations for doing this?\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"An alternative solution that is used with some Kossel Mini models, is a simple cardboard covered with aluminum tape (docs).\n\nThis solution has the added benefit of actually improving heat-up time, since the reflective surface of the aluminum tape reflects the heat back into the bed, instead of getting absorbed. \n\nIt is also a very simple solution, without costly materials. I guess mounting it properly could be an issue depending on your printer, but this is a fine solution for the Kossel models, at least.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n502,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,2.8153892694839717,3.8339662240819474,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,How to properly use Polyisocyanurate (PIR) foam with the heated bed?,\"From what I understand, it takes a really long time for the heated bed to heat up using an MK2a heated bed. I've heard some people suggest that using Polyisocyanurate (PIR) foam (insulation that takes quite a bit of heat to catch on fire) can be used under the headed bed to make it heat up faster. \n\nNow of course there are other methods for doing this too, for instance using a larger power supply, but at this point I'd rather just use the parts that I have without re-soldering many of the components on the RAMPS board. \n\nI was wondering what a proper way to attach this to the bed would be for instance, should the springs go on the bottom or on the top of the bed? Do I need some extra parts? Are there any other considerations for doing this?\n\",Dimitri Modderman,\"If you use a seperate powersupply for your bed (or if your controller has a built in voltage regulator so it doesn't damage at higher voltages) you can sometimes find an small potentiometer near the connection terminals of your powersupply, turning this potentiometer up can raise the outputvoltage of your powersupply by a few volts max. In my case the potentiometer was orange and allowed me to turn up the voltage by almost 2Volts!\n\nIf your printcontroller is running from the same powersupply and is critical about input DON'T do this since it will damage the electronics.\nBetter option then is to find a higher voltage powersupply and power the bed Seperately. \n\nA buddy of mine runs his MARK2a bed on 19V and it heats up very fast. (he uses an obscure 15V powersupply that was able to be cranked up to 19V). And he doesn't use insulation at all!\n\",0.0,0.0\n594,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,1.726248027126092,3.9215535641013384,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,What kind of filter do I need for the enclosure of a 3d printer?,\"I've heard alot about the need for ventilation when using 3D Printers lately. Is there any special sort of filter that would prevent the toxic gases from leaking out of the printer while it's printing it's filament? Is printing outside a solution while I build an enclosure?\n\",tbm0115,\"For the most part, a consumer 3D Printer will only need proper ventilation when using potentially harmful materials such as ABS. (See duplicate question). If you're printing with primarily PLA, then you don't need to worry. I print mostly with ABS and keep my machine close to a window and I haven't experienced any issues.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n797,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,3.0576060275493275,4.875835357293716,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,What kind of silicone glue should I use to attach my thermsistors?,\"I was watching a couple of videos about installing a Thermistor on the heat-bed and extruder of my Prusa i3; both videos mentioned that if I use either Sodium Silicate (Muffler & Tail Pipe Sealer) or Heat Resistant Silicone Glue to attach my Thermistors, I would be able to get a more accurate temperature reading.\n\nIs there a particular kind or specification that is best for use in their the Heatbed or the Extruder?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"The main requirement here is temperature resistance. A 3D printer extruder is very, very hot, and will easily exceed the ratings of many typical silicone glues in normal service or during a runaway event. (You should always plan for an eventual thermal runaway. They're alarmingly common with cheap kit printers.) Even high-temp glues will not survive the temperatures an extruder can reach at full power if the firmware locks up. \n\nMuffler putty is popular for fixing thermistors because it's one of the few widely-available ways of attaching a thermistor that will easily withstand the heat. In fact, it will survive after the aluminum hot block melts. (Yes, that can happen.) But muffler putty is fairly brittle, and has a different coefficient of thermal expansion from aluminum, so there is some risk of the thermistor detaching over time. I really don't recommend puttying thermistors used in extruders -- many people do, but it's less robust and less secure for long-term use than the proper hardware fixing methods found in modern hot block designs like the E3Dv6. The temperature sensing is sufficiently fast and accurate simply by putting the thermistor into a pocket in the hot block, without any kind of potting around the glass bead. \n\nHigh-temp RTV glues are very suitable for heated build plates. Pretty much any RTV (such as from your local automotive repair store) is fine if you just want to attach a thermistor to a plate. However, silicone heaters will require silicone adhesives. I've had good success with Dow Corning 736.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n864,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,1.726248027126092,5.202231644539679,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Can I use 20 gauge wire for my Mk2a Heatbed?,\"I purchased the following wire for my MK2a heated bed:\n\nMcMaster Carr\n1 8209K11 840 Degree F Braided Oven Wire 20 Gauge, Tan, 10 ft. Length 1\n\nWill this be acceptable? I'd like to print with ABS, which I know that the heatbed has to be hotter than when printing with PLA.\n\",kamuro,\"Your wire should be rated for at least the necessary 11 amps which the MK2a heatbed is supposed to take.\n\nYou can check this by measuring the resistivity of your wire:\n\n\n Always test the heatbed wiring for resistance. Remember, at 10A, 0.1Ohms means 1V voltage drop means 10W dissipated by the wiring!\n\n\nas taken from http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?392,493405 (useful read for seeing what CAN actually happen)\n\nDid you read through the following links? They might clear up some questions:\nhttp://reprap.org/wiki/PCB_Heatbed\nhttp://reprap.org/wiki/Heatbeds_-_A_beginner's_guide\n\nI personally would use 1.5 mm² cables, which translates to about 15 gauge wire.\n\n*edit: This is a nice table to check:\nhttp://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n865,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,1.726248027126092,2.704143814960767,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Attaching the resistor for the J-Head Extruder with Type 44 Non-Contaminating Heat Sink Compound?,\"I saw a video in which someone used GC Electronics Type 44 Non-Contaminating Heat Sink Compound (Part No. 10-8118) to hold the resistor for heating up the J-Head extruder head in place. \n\nIs that a good way to attach it so it heats up the aluminum block?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"Nope, not adequate. When heating at maximum power, you should expect the resistor to be 50-100C hotter than the hot block. (It must be hotter than the block in order to transfer heat to the block.) GC 10-8118 is only rated for 200C, but the service conditions at the power resistor may run up to 300-400C depending on power output and desired hot end temp. \n\nFor that matter, you may want to question whether the power resistor itself is rated for the >300C temps it will see in normal service. It's probably not. Most modern hot end designs use steel-jacketed heater cartridges instead of power resistors because they can handle higher temps and are, you know, actually designed to be used as heaters. The power resistors used in older hot end designs are generally being operated way past their design ratings. It's kind of amazing they work at all. \n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n866,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,2.528907649931287,4.335571023135903,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Safely Hooking a Switch up to an OEM Power Supply?,\"I ordered an OEM Power Supply and I intend to hook up with this rocker switch I believe it's like the one specified in the Power Supply Documentation which reads:\n\n\n In the US, IEC320 C14 plug connections are common, but use your\n preferred standard.\n\n\nI've also seen where this was attached in this thingiverse project.\n\nInside the switch I've also added an F4AL250V fuse. \n\nNow what's confusing me is, that the this rocker switch on the back reads 10A 250V~ so I'm wondering if it's safe to use.\n\nThe switch will be connected to the house mains via a plug and wired just like in the this thingiverse project, so it can be the input into my OEM Power Supply via the black (hot - L), white (Common - N) and Green (Ground) wires. \n\nFor the connecting wires I stripped a black PC Tower wire to get at the black, white, and ground wires inside it.\n\nhttp://reprap.org/wiki/Power_Supply#OEM_type_PSU\n\",Eric Johnson,\"The power supply that you posted is 12v 360w. This means that (in the USA with 120v power), it will draw 3 amps at 120v. Your switch is rated for 10A at 250V so it works. \n\nThe switch should be placed to interrupt the HOT wire coming from the wall to your power supply.\n\nIf you happen to be using 240v power, it is also safe as you would be drawing 1.5 amps at 240v which is still within the spec of the switch.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n866,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,2.528907649931287,4.335571023135903,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Safely Hooking a Switch up to an OEM Power Supply?,\"I ordered an OEM Power Supply and I intend to hook up with this rocker switch I believe it's like the one specified in the Power Supply Documentation which reads:\n\n\n In the US, IEC320 C14 plug connections are common, but use your\n preferred standard.\n\n\nI've also seen where this was attached in this thingiverse project.\n\nInside the switch I've also added an F4AL250V fuse. \n\nNow what's confusing me is, that the this rocker switch on the back reads 10A 250V~ so I'm wondering if it's safe to use.\n\nThe switch will be connected to the house mains via a plug and wired just like in the this thingiverse project, so it can be the input into my OEM Power Supply via the black (hot - L), white (Common - N) and Green (Ground) wires. \n\nFor the connecting wires I stripped a black PC Tower wire to get at the black, white, and ground wires inside it.\n\nhttp://reprap.org/wiki/Power_Supply#OEM_type_PSU\n\",kamuro,\"At 250V a rating for 10A means 2500 Watts, which is fairly enough to use with a typical 3D printer. Make sure that the wire you use to connect the switch to the power supply can also take the current you need. Easiest way to get a cable that is safe to use is salvaging a mains cable from other devices. I would not use wires that were made for low power use and with unsolid connections.\n\n*edit: I'm still not sure which cable you intended to use from this tower PC. If it is a mains cable like this \nhttps://www.google.com/search?q=mains+power+cable&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjL6Y23l9zLAhUCrRoKHXvsArsQ_AUIBygB&biw=1421&bih=922\nyou should be on the safe side.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n868,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,2.8153892694839717,2.350144896401575,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Are the thermsistors identical for both the heatbed and the extruder head?,\"I'm aware of two thermsistors in the Prusia i3 Rework. Are they the same? And if not, how do you tell them apart?\n\",kamuro,\"This depends on how you ended up with your finished printer. If it was a kit, then there is a chance that the thermistors might be the same, however, even a kit manufacturer might buy parts that come preassembled as I could imagine being the case for the hotend.\n\nTo find out about the actual thermistor you would need to look up the spec sheet of the manufacturer of your printer or the individual parts, afaik there is no way to identify them by having them in your hand beyond identifying the resistivity and the coefficient type by using a multimeter.\n\nYou could, of course, check the resistivity for a whole temperature range to compare the table of your thermistor to the tables which are listed in firmware, but then you could compile your own tables right away.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n870,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,2.1782824847157594,4.294308354176618,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.749318730431847,4.208576161768494,Can I use a multimeter to test the outgoing voltage of this power supply?,\"I don't want to blow out my multimeter or my electronics, so is it safe to test the DC output voltage with a multimeter on my OEM power supply?\n\",kamuro,\"If your multimeter can handle the voltage, it should be safe. 12 V should be in the capability range of common multimeters, so I would tend to say yes, - but make sure that your multimeter can handle the voltage and be sure it is set to voltage mode in the appropriate range (if set to current measurement mode for example, it will not survive).\n\nAlso take the typical precautions when measuring with a multimeter, as described in, for example, Safety equipment and precautions for DC circuit experimentation and development.\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n871,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,1.0891412423578797,4.518665130028652,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Is 22-Guage Stranded Hookup Wire the correct wire to connect the Switching Powersupply to RAMPs 1.4?,\"I obtained the following wire 22 Gauge Stranded Hookup Wire from Radio Shack:\n\nType/Style: AWM/1007\nWire Gauge: 22 AWG\nInsulation Thickness: AVE. 0.42 mm\nRated Voltage: 300V\nTemperature Rating: 80°C / 176°F \n\n\n\n Use Limitation: Internal wiring of appliances; or where exposed to oil\n at a temperature not exceeding 60°C or 80°C, whichever is applicable..\n Tags may indicate the following: 600V Peak - For Electronic Use Only.\n\n\nI'd like to be able to hook up RAMPs 1.4 to my switching power supply with this wire. Will this work okay?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"That should be fine for powering RAMPS, steppers and extruders but it is on the thin side. To err on the side of caution you should use somewhat ticker wires. However, you should definitely use thicker wires for the heated bed connection.\n\",0.0,0.0\n871,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,1.0891412423578797,4.518665130028652,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Is 22-Guage Stranded Hookup Wire the correct wire to connect the Switching Powersupply to RAMPs 1.4?,\"I obtained the following wire 22 Gauge Stranded Hookup Wire from Radio Shack:\n\nType/Style: AWM/1007\nWire Gauge: 22 AWG\nInsulation Thickness: AVE. 0.42 mm\nRated Voltage: 300V\nTemperature Rating: 80°C / 176°F \n\n\n\n Use Limitation: Internal wiring of appliances; or where exposed to oil\n at a temperature not exceeding 60°C or 80°C, whichever is applicable..\n Tags may indicate the following: 600V Peak - For Electronic Use Only.\n\n\nI'd like to be able to hook up RAMPs 1.4 to my switching power supply with this wire. Will this work okay?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"22awg wiring is good for a max of 7A in this usage case. Your power supply can provide 30A. So it is definitely not large enough wire gauge for good wiring practice -- in the event of a short, you want the PSU's over-current protection to kick in before the wiring overheats. That would mean 14ga between the PSU and board. 16ga would probably cover your actual load requirements just fine, but we need to know a lot more about your printer to say that for sure. \n\n12v systems need heavy duty wiring, at least on the main supply lines. You can use 22ga for individual power consumers, such as fans, extruder heaters, etc. (No heatbeds.)\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n975,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,2.528907649931287,4.888933898446669,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,\"Do the TW, THW and THHN or THWN wire insulation types matter in terms of powering RAMPS 1.4 or the MK2a Heat Bed?\",\"I'm still looking at wires for my Prusa i3, to go between the power supply and RAMPS 1.4, and the power supply and the MK2a Heatbed. \n\nI also recently found a 400 ft. Wire Storehouse that I bought from Harbor Freight which has wire sizes in it from AWG 10 through AWG 22 (and additionally speaker wire, Zip Cord and Bell).\n\nI also bought some reading material, I picked up Wiring Simplified 44th edition, and in it on page 28, Table 4-1, there is a table with information about the Ampacity of copper wires including their maximum temp (C), and maximum carrying current (Amps) based on their insulation types.\n\nUnfortunately, the 400 ft. Wire Storehouse does not provide any information in regards to the insulation type or quality and this makes it difficult for one to choose the correct wire based on the specification in the table. \n\nGiven that the thing only cost $30 for 400 Ft. of wire, it would lead me to believe that the cheapest grade of insulation was used; as I understand it, the TW type wire. \n\nI also read a forum somewhere in which people were complaining about the cheapness of the wire in this kit, stating that one ought to wear gloves when working with it as there is probably lead in the insulation as well as the wire.\n\nThe largest copper wire I have found in the table that I have (AWG 10) says that it is rated at 30 AMP regardless of which type of insulation it has, should I be using the speakerwire instead? That isn't listed in the table. Also it should be noted that though the ratings for the Ampacity are 30 AMPs, the max temperatures are different; with the TW being at 60 C. \n\nAs far as I can tell if I use the AWG 10 (TW?) to connect everything it won't matter, but I just thought I'd check here to be sure first since my power supply is rated at 30 AMPs and that's probably the same as the wire....\n\",spicetraders,\"THHN wire is thermoplastic high heat-resistant nylon coated wire.\nTHWN is thermoplastic heat- and moisture-resistant nylon coated wire.\n\n\"\"T\"\" stands for thermoplastic insulation covering the wire itself.\n\"\"H\"\" stands for a heat resistance of the insulation max 167°F.\n\"\"HH\"\" stands for a heat resistance, but increased max 194°F.\n\"\"W\"\" is for moisture resistant.\n\"\"N\"\" is for a nylon coating make the insulation oil and gas resistant.\n\nIn my opinion the Wire Storehouse is good for simple stuff, but I would not use it for something I consider important. It's quality is poor on the insulation rating and the number of strands is low. Higher strands number allows for more flexible wire.\n\nIf you get high end audiophile type speaker wire it could be considered as you can find high strand number with good quality insulation properties in heavier gauges. \n\nOr your local auto parts store will carry 8 and 6 gauge wire with better insulation properties. \n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n990,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,2.1782824847157594,3.1447983993774047,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How do I determine that the electronics are working with the test firmware?,\"\n You may want to use this code to test all the electronics before\n installing any of the suggested firmwares.\n\n\n\nFrom Final Step in the RAMPS 1.4 Wiki\n\n\nThere's a bunch of code in the sketch, and it looks to me like it just makes a component run, or heat up, for a little but and then move on to the next component, and do the same thing is that about right? \n\nWell if I'm testing this out and my printer is already for the most part assembled; should I set the stepper jumpers to something larger like a full turn, or half step, so I can see the motors move? Because I've also read that if you're going to test things out you shouldn't even be hooking up but one of the stepper drivers in case you burn one out!\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Running this kind of test isn't really necessary; it provides a nice test to see if everything is working but so does uploading actual firmware (and this isn't any safer than traditional firmware, at that).\n\nIt looks like it runs the steppers in one direction for 5 seconds and then in reverse for 5, which should be more than enough to see them move even with 1/32 stepping (it moves them at 1 step/ms, which would come out to 3/4ths of a turn with 1/200 steppers and 1/32 microstepping).\n\nIt isn't necessary to remove any code that isn't used. It does no harm.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n991,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,2.1782824847157594,4.495047262410246,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,What does the trimpot on my Switching Power Supply do?,\"On my Switching Power Supply there is a little orange trimpot that's marked VR1; what does that do, and does it work similar to the ones on the stepper drivers?\n\",darth pixel,\"No doubt it's just a final tuning potentiometer. Even on the pictures you linked it's described as V adj which stands for voltage adjustment.\nIt's a way to tune your power supply's output as it can vary depending on temperature/humidity/wall-plug voltage/etc.\n\nIt's usually set properly and doesn't need to be touched. But you can connect a multimeter to check if your power supply gives the voltage you need. \n\nIf you are not familiar with the subject but still want to do it yourself, it's good to set your multimeter to the highest available range and make sure that AC/DC is properly chosen. Now you can measure voltage. You can set the range closer to the expected values then. Usually multimeters have a range around 20 or 30V DC which is propbably what you expect from your power supply. In such a range you should see something like 12.000. If it varies from 12.000 you can then precisely adjust it to get as close as possible to this value. But watch out... cheap power supplies can cheat you. When the are have a load on the output (your 3D printer for example) they can reduce voltage.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n991,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,2.1782824847157594,4.495047262410246,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,What does the trimpot on my Switching Power Supply do?,\"On my Switching Power Supply there is a little orange trimpot that's marked VR1; what does that do, and does it work similar to the ones on the stepper drivers?\n\",Jason Harding,\"Vr usually stands for variable resistor, basically a pot. Usually by adjusting this you would adjust the voltage output on most power supplies, ensure you double check your voltage output with a meter after adjusting.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n1078,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,1.726248027126092,3.071923460387521,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Can I use a pin header in a breadboard to wire up the z-axis motors in parallel?,\"Can I use a pin header with the molex on my Nema 17 motors and a bread board to wire up the z-axis motors in series?\n\nAlso, do breadboards and pin headers have ratings, the way that wires do?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"You could absolutely do that.\n\nUltimately, the amount of current you can push through a wire/breadboard/connector depends on its resistance: for a given current I, a component with a resistance of R will have a voltage drop of V = I x R across it, resulting in a power dissipation of I^2 x R watts.\n\nI measured the resistance of breadboard traces to be around 7 Ohm/meter (measurement subject to some error, but this is the value I got testing over a 300mm stretch at 0.2A). This is quite high, the wires that came with your stepper motor are probably in the range of 0.1 Ohm/meter. If you had a stepper running at 2A, you'd waste 28W of power in a meter of breadboard rails.\n\nThankfully you're only going to be dealing with a very short stretch of breadboard (wasting \"\"only\"\" 0.8W for 4 wires over a 3 pin stretch each). It would probably be OK, but it's not ideal. Make sure the connection is good (and keep an eye on it initially) as a bad connection can result in significantly higher resistance and that might generate enough to melt your breadboard and short things out.\n\nA better way of doing this would be to simply solder the wires together, or (if you don't want to permanently connect the steppers) use the pin headers you mentioned, and solder them together directly (for example on a piece of perfboard or perhaps just link them up directly with a few pieces of thick wire).\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1098,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,2.8153892694839717,2.7905764474501265,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Should I comment out the code for what I am not testing when loading the test firmware for Ramps 1.4?,\"\n You may want to use this code to test all the electronics before\n installing any of the suggested firmwares.\n\n\nI'm planning on:\n\n\nFlashing the test firmware onto the Arduino Mega 2560, then unplugging it from the USB.\nConnecting RAMPS 1.4\nConnecting all 3 jumpers under the X-Axis (leaving the other jumpers disconnected).\nConnecting a stepper driver to the X-Axis on the board.\nTurning the trimpot down all the way, and then back up 1/4th of the way.\nPlugging in 1 NEMA 17 motor to the X-Axis.\nConnecting 5A DC input into RAMPS 1.4 (not plugged in).\nFinally plugging it in and seeing if the motor moves for 5 seconds.\n\n\nNow my question is, if I'm going to do this to test out a single NEMA 17 motor, do I need to comment out the rest of the test code before loading the firmware?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"There's no reason to comment anything out. It will work just fine without any modification, even if you're just testing a single motor. That said, I don't see the value of this \"\"test firmware\"\" over just installing Marlin.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n1478,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,2.528907649931287,3.7649394530103804,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Connecting Sain Smart Mechanical End Stops to Ramps 1.4?,\"I have Sainsmart Mechanical End Stops, and I'm building a Prusa i3 Rework.\n\nI've recently gotten the x-axis to move, but it needs to stop when it gets to the end and it does not do that; I end up having to pull the plug.\n\nFrom what I understand, there are two ways to wire ends stops in general, but you have to change the settings in the firmware to make it work right.\n\nThere are 3 connectors on the board:\n\n\nS (signal)\n- (ground)\n+ (VCC)\n\n\nMy Sainsmart Mechanical End Stops have 4 connectors!!!\n\nAccording to their website, left to right with the white connector facing you, they are as follows:\n\n\n\n\nS\nNormally Closed (NC)\nNormally Open (NO)\nVCC\n\n\nNow it seems to me that if I take those connections and connect them as follows it should work...(ramps on the left, sainsmart end stop on the right):\n\n\nS (signal) -> S\n- (ground) -> Normally Open (NO)\n+ (VCC) -> VCC\nnothing -> Normally Closed (NC)\n\n\n...but! Screwing this up by either using the wrong firmware of selecting the wrong wire frys your board, so I thought I'd ask here. Sources please.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The multiple connections are redundant. Your picture indicates the wires labelled as \"\"SIGNAL, GND, GND, VCC\"\". This is correct if the board is a \"\"standard\"\" mechanical endstop v1.2. The two middle pins are both ground, but you only need to use one of them.\n\nYou can simply connect signal to signal and ground to ground. That is sufficient for the endstop to work. You only need to connect VVC to VVC if you want the LED that's on the board to function.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n1480,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,3.0576060275493275,5.590719308347964,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.859356439026359,How do you make sure you have the right voltage on the trimpots on an A4988 stepper driver?,\"I've been looking into this, but:\n\n\nI'm not certain how to configure my multimeter; \nI don't know how to keep the voltage going, and;\nI don't know how to keep the multimeter connected to the VMOT?\n\n\nI'm told you're supposed to aim for about 1 A.\n\",kamuro,\"I want to add some points and clarifications to the answer that @darthpixel already has given. Most information you need is in there, I want to give some more practical advice, since that is what I understand you're question is asking for. I'll start with some points on the more theoretical side, though:\n\n\nnotice that the Vref is not a voltage that is passed on to your motor. The described pipe analogy is very good, but the Vref is outside of this analogy. The reference voltage Vref is only used to set the current limit. This seems confusing, but has electronic reasons. One can understand the major (side-)benefit easily: Voltages are very easy to measure externally, because you connect your voltmeter in parallel. If you wouldd want to measure the current, you would need to get your ammeter in series with the circuit.\nThe stepsticks work by supplying the needed current for movement of the motor (current, because it works by creating magnetic fields), the voltage the stepstick supplies is 'just' supplied as high as needed to feed the desired current through your motor (determined by its resistivity/impedance). This just as an add-on.\n\n\nNow to the practical side and the application of darthpixel's answer and the above:\n\nYou want to measure the reference voltage to limit the current that produces the torque, but also heats up the motor - let darthpixel's advice be your guide: if you can't touch it because it is too hot, then there is too much current, i.e. Vref is too high). To do so:\n\n\nSet your multimeter to volts, range can be autorange or something bigger than 2V.\nConnect one lead of your multimeter to the ground of your Prusa i3 controller board's power input (I use the screw that fastens the ground input of the RAMPS). The other lead goes directly to the center of the trimpot on the Stepstick. I took the best of my paint skills to create an image showing the process: \nNote the value you read (12V power has to be on)\nUse an insulated screwdriver and turn the trimpot slightly.\nGet a new reading by repeating the measurement process.\nRepeat the whole process until you get the desired Vref.\n\n\nWarning: While I've had no problems turning the trimpot while everything was switched on (with my DRV8825 drivers), you should switch the power supply off when doing so.\n\nThe described process allows only for a stepwise and rather slow setting of the Vref, but this is the easiest way I've found. I have read of people that use a crocodile clamp to attach the multimeter to the screwdriver for a readout while turning.\n\nIf you don't have any idea whether you need more or less current on the motor at the moment, check your resistors on the board and calculate the Vref you should need (see darthpixel's answer for the formula). I would however just do what darthpixel already suggested: figure out the trimpot position by ears and touch: klicking motor: go to higher Vref. Can't touch the motor for more than some seconds: go to lower Vref. It might be a lengthy process, but in the end you'd need to do it anyway to get the best out of the printer!\n\",3.0411126502294303,0.0\n1480,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,3.0576060275493275,5.590719308347964,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.859356439026359,How do you make sure you have the right voltage on the trimpots on an A4988 stepper driver?,\"I've been looking into this, but:\n\n\nI'm not certain how to configure my multimeter; \nI don't know how to keep the voltage going, and;\nI don't know how to keep the multimeter connected to the VMOT?\n\n\nI'm told you're supposed to aim for about 1 A.\n\",darth pixel,\"Generally speaking voltage on stepstick output should be around 1V. \n\nTo imagine more or less what the current and what the voltage is, you can think about it in the same way as about water.\n\nThe wire is more or less the same as the pipe.\nThe voltage can be imagined as (sort of) the height from which the water flows but the current can be imagined as an amount of water which flows. To simplify things we assume that all our pipes are closed into circuit and we have pump/battery and we have a motor which is a reverted pump ;) and finally we have our stepstick which is a tap in our model.\n\nSo no matter what the height (voltage) is we know that tap (stepstick) will pass some amount (current) of water. We can drive it turning tap or turning a potentiometer on the stepstick PCB.\n\nSo we got it. Principles (deadly simplified) are now clear. See here for more details\n\nGetting back to your question. \nYou have to know what is your stepstick reference voltage. To make sure about that you have to check out resistor(s) next to main black element on stepstick board. There should be R100 or R200 which are very common.\n\nNow you should read data from motor label to know what is proper current for your motor and calculate\n\nvoltage = motor_current * 8 * resistance_of_resistor\n\nSo now you know what is proper voltage for your motor and stepstick.\n\nYou measure voltage between potentiometer and GND (see on the picture)\n\n\n\nIf you set and connect everything and start printouts you should check motor temperature. Use your finger. If you can touch motor and hold your finger not more than half a second then probably the voltage set on potentiometer is too high (motor can reach 80° Celsius and it's fine but more will shorten its life span) and you should reduce it a bit (reduce by 5/100 V). If you notice that motor growls or barks then your voltage is probably too low and you can increase it by 5/100V.\n\nToo high current will also reduce longevity of stepstick so cool them out with fan.\n\nPlease be noticed.\n\nZ-axis motors will usually be not too hot as they work less than X and Y but as they are both connected to one stepstick so they need more current - set higher voltage there.\n\nHere is a reprap.org site to get basic knowledge about stepsticks.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n1536,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,2.8153892694839717,4.6554085336879645,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.9505769891325135,\"What does \"\"Uses Mains Voltage\"\" mean on this 200*200mm Square Silicone Heater Pad?\",\"I keep thinking it means that I can plug it directly into my power supply instead of running it though my RAMPs 1.4; is that correct?\n\nHere is the link to it, 200*200mm Square Silicone Heater Pad.\n\",darth pixel,\"[edit]\nI just noticed you've mentioned \"\"mains voltage\"\"\n\nDON'T DO THAT\n\nIf there is 12V on your heatbed and your power supply gives 12 V then you can do it but there will be no control over your heating procedure.\n\nHow does it work?\n\nRAMPS is connected to Arduino and then through Arduino to your computer. So applications can say to Arduino - hey, heat it up up to 70°C. So Arduino sends this command to RAMPS and RAMPS is switching on heating, meantime it measures temperature and sends this measurement to Arduino so it knows if your heatbed is already at 70°C or not. Having that knowledge Arduino can decide to still heat it up or rather switch the power of the heatbed off.\n\nIf you connect your heatbed directly to your power supply then all of the above controlling sequence will not take place.\n\nImagine to connect your lightbulb directly to the wall plug. You can do it but then you will not have any chance to switch it on or off. Right? ;)\n\nSo in my opinion - don't do that - don't connect your heatbed directly to your power supply.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n1536,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,2.8153892694839717,4.6554085336879645,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.9505769891325135,\"What does \"\"Uses Mains Voltage\"\" mean on this 200*200mm Square Silicone Heater Pad?\",\"I keep thinking it means that I can plug it directly into my power supply instead of running it though my RAMPs 1.4; is that correct?\n\nHere is the link to it, 200*200mm Square Silicone Heater Pad.\n\",typhonic,\"The heater pad described in your link is designed for 12 VDC or 24 VDC. Therefore, the term Mains Voltage in the description is misleading and probably wrong. Read the voltage and power requirements again and it appears that the heater pad can be connected directly to the RAMPS 1.4 without an external relay or SSR.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1562,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,3.0576060275493275,3.1020108497648207,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Do I have to buy all new components if I were to get a RAMPS 1.4 that supports 24 V power?,\"Ryan Carlyle seems to keep suggesting in my questions here, that using a 24 V power supply is safer than using a 12 V one. \n\nEarly on, I ordered the wrong power supply, obtaining a 24 V one instead of a 12 V; I found that it was incompatible with my RAMPs 1.4 board... unless of course you pull off all the components and replacement with 24 V compatible ones.\n\nNow granted my board needs to be replaced if I am to use such a power supply, but are there any other components that need to be replaced if I'm going to use 24 V power, or am I safe with what I am using?\n\",kamuro,\"You need all components that are supplied voltage by the RAMPS board to be able to deal with a 24V input. Some of your parts are most likely compatible, as the stepper drivers. Others get the 5V from the Arduino, as the endstops. Some will most likely need replacement, as\n\n\nthe Hotend heater cartridge. It will need to be exchanged. You can easily buy those in 12V and 24V versions and a 12V version should not get 24V.\nthe fans. Chances here are about as close to 100% as it gets that they need to be replaced. They are directly connected to the 12V, some are PWM regulated but that doesn't change that they need to be replaced with proper 24V fans.\nthe heated bed. Since it gets direct power from the board you cannot use your old 12V bed. This is unless you had your old bed switched by a solid state relay (SSR) before. Then you'd have to check the SSR's switching signal tolerances.\nanything else you might have hooked up to your power supply directly (lights for example) should be checked for input tolerance.\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n2592,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,1.726248027126092,5.232341099234362,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,How do I wire an AC SSR with RAMPs 1.4?,\"I was advised that it would be possible to use an AC SSR to wire up a Mains Based heat bed. Any idea how one would do this with a RAMPs 1.4 board; Also, what do I hook a heated bed of this sort into?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"If you take a kettle lead with a wall plug and cut off the other end, it will expose 3 wires: earth, live and neutral. These are color coded depending on your country, usually earth is green (possibly with yellow stripes), neutral is blue, black, grey or white and live is brown, red or black.\n\nThe SSR should have 4 terminals: 2 terminals for the switched load (which are interchangeable) and 2 terminals that connect to your electronics, which should be marked negative and positive. These terminals should connect to the negative/positive heated bed output of your electronics. The terminals of the SSR should be clearly marked, and you can verify which terminal is what from the SSR's datasheet.\n\nTypically, your heated bed will have two wires for power (which are interchangeable). One of the wires should be connected to neutral. The other wire should go to one of the load terminals of the SSR, while the other load terminal of the SSR should connect to the live wire. It is also acceptable to do it the other way around (neutral to the SSR and live directly to the bed) but this is slightly less neat.\n\nFinally, and this step is extremely important, the earth wire of the plug has a protective function: should something fail, metal parts of your printer may become electrified, and shock you when you touch them. To prevent it, you should electrically connect exposed metal parts of your printer (such as the frame, heated bed plate, power supply case, etc...) to earth. This provides a path for the current to flow (and trip the protective RCD breaker) should something go wrong.\n\nI would further recommend that you protect your heated bed (particularly if it is a high power model) with a bimetallic thermal switch. These are available in a variety of ratings, and will switch the power to your heated bed off when it goes over a certain temperature. This switch should be wired between the relay and the heated bed, and be mounted on the heated bed so it makes good thermal contact. If you plan to print with the heated bed at 110C, you might get a 120C or 130C thermal switch.\n\nAs mains voltage can be deadly, you should take appropriate precautions: never work on the printer while it is plugged in, cover any connections (in particular, make sure you buy or print a cover for the SSR's terminals and wrap solder joints in heat shrink or electrical tape) and always treat wires coming out of the SSR as live (even if it is switched off, some current can still flow).\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n2592,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,1.726248027126092,5.232341099234362,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,How do I wire an AC SSR with RAMPs 1.4?,\"I was advised that it would be possible to use an AC SSR to wire up a Mains Based heat bed. Any idea how one would do this with a RAMPs 1.4 board; Also, what do I hook a heated bed of this sort into?\n\",Michael D. M. Dryden,\"A link to the bed you have/are buying would be very helpful. AC heated beds exist but are fairly uncommon.\n\nAs one of the answers in the question you linked notes, the heat bed is probably not actually intended to use the 110 VAC/220 VAC directly from the wall and instead needs either 12 VDC or 24 VDC.\nIf the current it needs is less than 11 A, then it can be connected directly to port D8 on the RAMPS 1.4, where it will take power from a suitably powerful 12/24 VDC supply connected to the 11 A input on the board.\nA more powerful heater will need an external relay/MOSFET/etc. to control.\n\nIf you do, in fact, have an AC bed, you can connect a SSR like this to either D8 or D9 on the RAMPS (D10 could be used, but it would need a supply connected to the 11 A input) making sure the polarity is correct, as long as your RAMPS DC supply voltage is within the input range of the SSR.\nThe linked one is 3–32 VDC, so almost any supply voltage compatible with the RAMPS will work.\nThe AC outputs of the SSR should be connected in series between one side of the bed and the AC hot wire, with the AC neutral wire connected to the other side of the bed so most of the circuit isn't carrying high voltage when off.\nThis video has some useful hints.\n\nHowever, while an AC bed can get you faster heating, will let you use thinner wires, and avoids the need for having a big DC power supply, I would recommend against using a mains voltage bed if you don't know what you're doing—a great deal more care must be taken and there is a serious possibility of injury.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2593,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,3.767809650974757,5.903230639758349,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.265283966335819,How does the home position work on a Prusa i3 RepRap Printer?,\"\n\nBy what process does the Prusa i3 determine it's home position? \n\nI have a feeling that it works like this, but I'm not entirely sure about it:\n\n\nIf none of the end stops are activated; assume you are somewhere between Max-X, Max-Y, Max-Z and the point 0,0,0.\ndo\n\n\nFor axis in Axies\n\n\nIf axis endstop not signaling\n\n\nsubtract 100 steps from axis.\n\n\n\nwhile endstops are not signaling, or if point 0,0,0 not reached; \n\n\",StarWind0,\"You have the endstop which sends a on or off to the controller board.\n\nThe boards firmware knows if it is a close or open switch.\n\nLets assume pressed is on and unpressed is off.\n\nWhen the axis is at home it will read as ON. The firmware then will not allow the axis to move in the direction you have designated is the Home direction. Now this is probably where you got confused. You in fact are the one to open a code file, and say what direction is home. When your turn it on the first time, chances are you have done it wrong on at least one. Then you will frantically go and manually press it yourself as your printers hotend crashes HARD into the bed.. All of us have been there !\n\nGenerally Prusas use ramps 1.4\n\nhttp://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4\n\nYour code is your firmware. Usually you just edit a header file (single file). These files are heavily documented, depending which you use. Your seller might provider you with a preconfigured header file.\n\nWill note that yes, if the endstop slips or is not position right, the printer will crash into it self. Usually no damage, but it is a very unpleasant thing to happen. \n\nAlso worth noting that some firmware will force you to home before you move. Others will let you crash the printer on the opposite side. Just a motor, will do whatever you tell it to.\n\nIn short. You tell it how the endstops work and what direction is home on a printer.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2593,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,3.767809650974757,5.903230639758349,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.265283966335819,How does the home position work on a Prusa i3 RepRap Printer?,\"\n\nBy what process does the Prusa i3 determine it's home position? \n\nI have a feeling that it works like this, but I'm not entirely sure about it:\n\n\nIf none of the end stops are activated; assume you are somewhere between Max-X, Max-Y, Max-Z and the point 0,0,0.\ndo\n\n\nFor axis in Axies\n\n\nIf axis endstop not signaling\n\n\nsubtract 100 steps from axis.\n\n\n\nwhile endstops are not signaling, or if point 0,0,0 not reached; \n\n\",Flautarian,\"It works like you describe, but it does not move all axes at the same time. It first moves the X-axis, subtracting steps while the X endstop is not pressed. When the X-axis is is homed (the X-endstop is gets pressed) it repeats the procedure for the Y-axis and finally the Z-axis.\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n2776,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,3.267423727073639,3.977016375913304,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,Frightened of Cheap Chinese Power Supply as I hook up the heated bed,\"My 12V DC 30A Power Supply 360W Power Supply is really cheap, and it's worked well for setting up the motors; but now that I'm on to the heated bed, which uses considerably more Ampage than that of just the motors, I'll confess, I'm getting frightened to continue using it; if the summer was a bit longer, maybe it wouldn't bother me, but we're getting into the cold months, and now I'm afraid of ending up using too much ampage just trying to heat the bed in the winter months...(and I don't mean my bed). Is there anything I should look out for in terms of using the either the cheap power supply I already have, or are there certain specs on a new not-so-cheap power supply that I ought to be using instead? \n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"A MK2 heatbed will draw around 12A. The motors and hotend draw only very little power (around 2A, 5A peak), so the 30A supply you have has significant headroom (it is often recommended to derate a power supply by 20%, so a 30A supply would be good for 24A - you're still well under that). It should work fine, even given its dubious provenance.\n\nWinter versus summer should not make a big difference. The largest power draw is during the heat up phase. In winter, the bed will use slightly more power to stay warm, but regardless of whether it is summer or winter the peak power draw during heat up will be the same.\n\nThe cheapness of these supplies tends to be reflected in more output ripple (but for heating the bed and running the motors you don't need a very stable voltage) and improper filtering. This may inject noise back into the mains, possibly affecting other equipment nearby. Should this occur, you can just stop using the power supply. However, in my experience, they can deliver the rated power just fine. They're not completely horrible.\n\nYour biggest concern should be whether the wires that lead to your heated bed can handle the current and whether the screw terminals are properly tightened. During the first use, you should check that the power supply does not get extremely hot. If it's so hot it's impossible to touch for more than 1-2 seconds you should not use it.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n2776,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,3.267423727073639,3.977016375913304,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,Frightened of Cheap Chinese Power Supply as I hook up the heated bed,\"My 12V DC 30A Power Supply 360W Power Supply is really cheap, and it's worked well for setting up the motors; but now that I'm on to the heated bed, which uses considerably more Ampage than that of just the motors, I'll confess, I'm getting frightened to continue using it; if the summer was a bit longer, maybe it wouldn't bother me, but we're getting into the cold months, and now I'm afraid of ending up using too much ampage just trying to heat the bed in the winter months...(and I don't mean my bed). Is there anything I should look out for in terms of using the either the cheap power supply I already have, or are there certain specs on a new not-so-cheap power supply that I ought to be using instead? \n\",Tom,\"I've used a similar cheap psu before. It'll work without blowing up but my heatbed struggled to get up to 60c, swapped psus with one I had lying around from a desktop and there was a huge difference. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3081,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,2.528907649931287,3.9972059781872438,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,What solder specs are safe to use when soldering wires to an Mk2a heat bed?,\"I've already asked which wires I should use, and I believe I have that covered now, but I was also wondering what solder / specs on the solder are considered safe when attaching my wires to my heat bed. I have some solder here at the house, it's quite new (never been opened) it's Radio Shack 64-008 E 60/40 Standard Rosin-Core with 0.062 diameter...\n\",user802599,\"That solder sounds like it should be fine.\n\nAny solder should work, the only difference you might find is some of the older solder will include lead. if you were overly concerned about safety you might want to check your solder doesn't contain lead. However, for the amount you are doing, even a solder that contains lead isn't going to be an issue.\n\",0.0,0.0\n3081,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,2.528907649931287,3.9972059781872438,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,What solder specs are safe to use when soldering wires to an Mk2a heat bed?,\"I've already asked which wires I should use, and I believe I have that covered now, but I was also wondering what solder / specs on the solder are considered safe when attaching my wires to my heat bed. I have some solder here at the house, it's quite new (never been opened) it's Radio Shack 64-008 E 60/40 Standard Rosin-Core with 0.062 diameter...\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"Old-style lead/tin solder has a melting range of about 180 to 250 degrees (the transition solid to liquid is spread out). This ought to be fine for the bed (even at the hottest hotspot) but wouldn't be good in the hotend.\n\nModern electronics lead-free solder varies since there are several different compositions, but is typically a bit higher in melting point (by some 10s of degrees).\n\nSpecial high melting point solder transitions around 300C, but you would only need to use this in very specific scenarios.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3113,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,2.8153892694839717,4.623498839055835,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,What grade of wire is required for the heating element on a J-Head extruder?,\"I have a large resistor that goes in my J-Head extruder. It's grey, and it came with the extruder. I'm uncertain as to what grade of wire I need to solder to it. It being one of the elements of the system that heats the hottest, I would think that it would be important to find out what sort of wire is the correct kind to use on it, since heating elements require a lot of electricity.\n\nAlso does the solder type I use matter? \n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"There are a number of things to consider:\n\n\nWire Gauge: a typical 40W, 12V heater draws around 3A. 24 AWG or lower would be appropriate (copper wire, CCA will require thicker gauge).\nInsulation: the part of the wire close to the resistor leads might get too hot for conventional PVC installation. Consider using silicone, teflon or glass fiber insulation instead, especially near the heating element. If the resistor's leads are long enough they might stay cool enough for regular PVC insulation, but make sure you insulate the part of the leads closer to the resistor appropriately.\nSolder: if close to the heater itself, the solder might melt. Consider using silver solder, or using a mechanical connection (ferrule/crimp) instead. Again, this might not be a concern if the leads of the resistor are long enough.\nFlexibility: given that the extruder (probably) moves a lot, use flexible wire (stranded, not solid core) and provide strain relief (especially near the connections, and avoid creating too sharp bends).\n\n\nFinally, resistors have fallen out of favor compared to ceramic heating elements. Since they are inexpensive and solve all of the above problems (the leads are already attached and appropriately insulated) consider using a ceramic heater instead.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n3113,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,2.8153892694839717,4.623498839055835,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,What grade of wire is required for the heating element on a J-Head extruder?,\"I have a large resistor that goes in my J-Head extruder. It's grey, and it came with the extruder. I'm uncertain as to what grade of wire I need to solder to it. It being one of the elements of the system that heats the hottest, I would think that it would be important to find out what sort of wire is the correct kind to use on it, since heating elements require a lot of electricity.\n\nAlso does the solder type I use matter? \n\",Carl Witthoft,\"The physical size of the resistor is irrelevant. What matters is the total power (and in particular, current) the head will draw. Once you know that, there are plenty of tables on the web that'll list max amperage vs. wire gauge. When in doubt, use a larger wire :-) since we're only talking about a couple of feet length; cost is minimal.\n\nAs to solder: so long as you're not selling the printer, you don't need to meet any RoHs requirements. Use whatever you want.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3366,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,3.267423727073639,4.279982128441503,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.749318730431847,3.322464497796202,Silver Solder specifications for hot end heating element,\"In this question I was told that I should use silver solder to connect the heating element to the power supply.\n\n(I was also told that a ceramic extruder head was the way to go, but I'm working with what I have)\n\nI bought two types of silver solider from Radio Shack: \n\n\n96/4 Silver-Bearing Solder, Lead-Free 0.62\"\" diameter.\n62/36/2 Silver-Bearing Solder, 0.15\"\" diameter.\n\n\nIs there any reason I should use one of these over the other to power the heading element of the J-Head extruder?\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"The first is not suitable. ASTM96TS Sn96Ag4 has a melting point of 221–229 °C according to Wikipedia. Pb96Ag4 would be OK, but that is not lead free so doesn't seem to match your description. Update from comment to explain the letters and numbers: the data comes from wikipedia, the numbers are Tin(Sn) 62%, Pb(Lead) 36%, Ag(Silver) 2%, for example, see below for an electronics solder compound. \n\nSn62Pb36Ag2 is an ordinary expensive electronics solder (but not lead free), with an even lower melting point.\n\nYou need to find a high temperature silver solder, with a melting point of about 305 °C (which confusingly might be a soft silver solder), for example one of these. Hard silver solders melt at 600 °C, that would be excessive in this application.\n\nThe nomenclature 'silver solder' came about before lead-free electronics solder was introduced, since when more alloys containing silver have become popular as general purpose solders.\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n3366,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leeand00,3.267423727073639,4.279982128441503,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.749318730431847,3.322464497796202,Silver Solder specifications for hot end heating element,\"In this question I was told that I should use silver solder to connect the heating element to the power supply.\n\n(I was also told that a ceramic extruder head was the way to go, but I'm working with what I have)\n\nI bought two types of silver solider from Radio Shack: \n\n\n96/4 Silver-Bearing Solder, Lead-Free 0.62\"\" diameter.\n62/36/2 Silver-Bearing Solder, 0.15\"\" diameter.\n\n\nIs there any reason I should use one of these over the other to power the heading element of the J-Head extruder?\n\",galamdring,\"I can't comment yet, but for those wondering, the issue with tinning the wires is when you are clamping them. Tinning them actually increases the resistance between the wires and terminal, due to making them harder and not getting squished out to make more contact with the terminal. This increased resistance means increased heat, and enough heat means fire.\n\n\n The reason for the prohibition is that when you fully tin a multistrand wire fully, the solder wicks between the strands of copper and forms a solid block, part of whose volume is metallic solder. When you clamp the solder and copper bundle you tighten the screw or clamp against the solder block, and in time the solder metal \"\"creeps\"\" under the compressive forces and the join loses tension. The wire can then either pull out or cause a high resistance connection with heating.\n\n\nSource\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n204,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TextGeek,4.856950893332637,5.2247715624235695,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,How to get consistent and accurate readings from thermocouples?,\"I upgraded to an Mk9 dual extruder, and it came with thermocouples installed instead of the thermistors I had before. \n\nNo matter what I did with the thermocouples, the indicated temperature jumped around by as much as 30C or more. In short, after several weeks of fiddling I never got the thermocouples to work well, and replaced them with thermistors, which have been fine.\n\nSo my question is: what is required to get thermocouples to give reliable, consistent, accurate readings? Are they just incredibly touchy?\n\nSome things I tried include:\n\n\nOf course, one must add circuitry (typically a thermocouple amplifier board such as http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Thermocouple_Sensor_Board_v1), to convert the tiny voltage differences to larger differences usable with Arduino or similar analog inputs.\nPlace those boards close to the thermocouples, but far enough that they are at pretty stable temperature themselves.\nHave absolutely no wire extensions of splices, changes of wire types (material), etc.\nAvoid doing repeated measurements too fast.\nI replaced a thermocouple board with 5V through a potentiometer to the analog input pin, to rule out problems in the Arduino, pin configurations, or software, and got stable readings.\nI checked for shorts-to-ground from the heater block, both sides of the thermocouples, the heater itself, etc. None found.\nThe thermocouple wires are surrounded by a braided shield (not common or shorted to either thermocouple wire); I tried grounding that at either end and at both ends, to the heat block, the printer frame, the power-supply ground, and the RAMPS board ground. These had various effects (sometimes large), but I couldn't find any configuration that made the readings stable (much less accurate!).\n\n\nAnything I'm missing?\n\nThanks!\n\nSteve\n\",tbm0115,\"It sound like you just have a defective thermocouple. But, I just did a google search for \"\"Why are thermocouples inaccurate\"\" and found this article on identifying bad thermocouples and preventative maintenance. I never thought of a lot of the tips in the article, but I haven't had such drastic temperature errors either.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n204,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TextGeek,4.856950893332637,5.2247715624235695,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,How to get consistent and accurate readings from thermocouples?,\"I upgraded to an Mk9 dual extruder, and it came with thermocouples installed instead of the thermistors I had before. \n\nNo matter what I did with the thermocouples, the indicated temperature jumped around by as much as 30C or more. In short, after several weeks of fiddling I never got the thermocouples to work well, and replaced them with thermistors, which have been fine.\n\nSo my question is: what is required to get thermocouples to give reliable, consistent, accurate readings? Are they just incredibly touchy?\n\nSome things I tried include:\n\n\nOf course, one must add circuitry (typically a thermocouple amplifier board such as http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Thermocouple_Sensor_Board_v1), to convert the tiny voltage differences to larger differences usable with Arduino or similar analog inputs.\nPlace those boards close to the thermocouples, but far enough that they are at pretty stable temperature themselves.\nHave absolutely no wire extensions of splices, changes of wire types (material), etc.\nAvoid doing repeated measurements too fast.\nI replaced a thermocouple board with 5V through a potentiometer to the analog input pin, to rule out problems in the Arduino, pin configurations, or software, and got stable readings.\nI checked for shorts-to-ground from the heater block, both sides of the thermocouples, the heater itself, etc. None found.\nThe thermocouple wires are surrounded by a braided shield (not common or shorted to either thermocouple wire); I tried grounding that at either end and at both ends, to the heat block, the printer frame, the power-supply ground, and the RAMPS board ground. These had various effects (sometimes large), but I couldn't find any configuration that made the readings stable (much less accurate!).\n\n\nAnything I'm missing?\n\nThanks!\n\nSteve\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"Thermocouples work by passively generating VERY small voltages via the Seebeck effect -- usually a few tens of millivolts. They're literally just a pair of wires made from two different special alloys, electrically connected together at the \"\"hot\"\" end. That wire junction can be mounted inside whatever kind of attachment tip or lug is desired.\n\nThe fact that they're very simple and passive devices makes them extremely precise and consistent between TCs of the same type, MUCH more so than thermistors. Any type-K thermocouple in the world will give you the same accurate output +/-1-2C or so. You can even cut a thermocouple in half, re-twist the ends of the wires together, and it'll still work! \n\nHowever, the very small (millivolts) signal they generate is quite susceptible to electrical noise and circuit design. The signal voltage has to be greatly amplified to be useful. So it doesn't take much EMR from your heater or stepper wires to interfere with the TC reading. A frequent problem with TC circuits in 3d printers is the dreaded GROUND LOOP -- if the \"\"hot\"\" tip is electrically connected to the hot block, voltage and current on the heater and motor wires can induce small currents through the TC wires that totally screw up the millivolt signal. The amplifier picks up these stray voltages and it throws off the temp read. So, there are some important guidelines for keeping noise out of the TC wires:\n\n\nThe TC wires must be electrically insulated from the mounting hardware (eye lug, thermowell, whatever your extruder has). You can check this with a multimeter -- you want infinite / out of range resistance from the TC leads to the mounting tip and hot block. While you're at it, make sure your heater cartridge wires aren't shorting to the hot block -- that's unsafe and can also cause problems with TCs.\nKeep the two TC wires close together, and not immediately parallel to noise sources like PWM-controlled heaters or stepper wiring. If you must run the TC in a bundle with the other wires, TWIST the heater/stepper wiring pairs. (For steppers, twist each coil pair to a different pitch if possible. You don't need to twist the separate coil pairs to each other.) \n\n\nAnother common issue with TC circuits is the COLD JUNCTION COMPENSATION. A thermocouple doesn't measure tip temperature, it measures the DIFFERENCE in temperature between the hot tip and the cold junction where the TC is connected to either the amp or copper wiring. The TC amp has an onboard thermistor that it uses to add the temp at the cold junction to the measured signal from the thermocouple. There are a few things you need to do to make sure the cold-junction compensation works properly:\n\n\nYou should run TC wire all the way from the \"\"hot\"\" tip to the TC amp. You CAN splice it and install plugs, but only with more type-K TC wire and proper type-K thermocouple plugs. These use the same metal as the TC wire so they don't generate undesired junction voltages that interfere with the TC signal. If you splice copper wire between the TC and the amp, any temp differences along the copper will not be measured! This is a particularly big problem if you splice to copper inside a warm enclosure and then run copper to an amp outside the enclosure.\nThe amp should not be super hot. The onboard thermistor is designed to accurately measure temperatures reasonably close to room temp, not hot-block temps. \nThere should not be large temperature gradients near the amp or between the TC wire termination and the actual amp chip. Place the amp far enough away from the hot end and other heat sources (like stepper motors) that it isn't experiencing weird temp profiles.\n\n\nIf you do the above, the TC will output a good signal, and the amp will read it properly. But there's one more hitch. The mainboard has to know how to understand the amp's output. 3D printer control boards that are designed exclusively for TCs, like Mightyboards, usually use digital communication between the amp and the main control chip (MCU). This is high-reliability and does not require any special firmware configuration -- support is baked in. But if you're strapping an external TC amp onto a board that is expecting thermistors, you will have to tell the firmware how to read the signal from the amp. The most common technique is for the amp to output a linear voltage signal to the MCU's normal thermistor input (ADC). Then you configure the firmware to use the appropriate \"\"thermistor table\"\" (really a voltage lookup table) for that particular amp. Depending on your controller board, you also may need to make sure the regular thermistor pull-up/pull-down resistors aren't affecting the amp's output.\n\nSo you need to make sure:\n\n\nYou don't have electrical noise issues\nThe cold-junction compensation is working as intended\nThe firmware and controller board is configured correctly for your amp chip's output\n\n\nIf you do all that, a TC should give superior accuracy and reliability over a thermistor. \n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n331,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TextGeek,3.452496054252184,5.5628220275029925,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,3.322464497796202,Levelling heads for dual extruder,\"I upgraded to a dual Mk9 extruder, and quickly discovered how critical it is to get the ends of both nozzles exactly level with each other -- that is, equally distant from the build plate at all times. Otherwise the lower one will crash against the plastic just extruded by the higher one.\n\nSo, what's a good procedure for getting the nozzles accurately level? About all I've figure out is to move the heads down close to Z=0, and then run X and Y back and forth and eyeball and adjust; then move even closer to Z=0 and repeat. Is there a better / more efficient way?\n\",Daniel M.,\"\nMake sure that the bed is level. As the saying goes, a level bed is next to godliness or something like that. Pay extra attention to the direction the nozzles are offset by (if one nozzle is offset on the X-axis, pay extra attention to the bed leveling along the X-axis). This can be done with just one nozzle and a business card or piece of paper.\nUse a bubble level to get the nozzles about right. Move your z-axis up a bit and put a bubble level against the nozzles. Adjust as necessary so it's exactly level. The nozzles should be level enough that the bubble stays in the middle.\nFine-tune it with a business card. When you home the z- axis, you should be able to just fit a business card under both nozzles with a moderate amount of resistance. Don't force the card. If sliding the business card under produces a different amount of resistance for one nozzle than for another, adjust the nozzle a tiny amount. You can also use an index card or playing card.\nOnce it passes the card test, try a test print. If it doesn't work, make sure your bed is level, your nozzle offset is correct in the slicing software, and try calibrating with an index card again. If the nozzles become way off, try the bubble level again.\n\n\nAs for physically adjusting the level, another answer suggests shims made from aluminum foil, which work well. Personally, my extruder was off-level by almost exactly 1mm, so a pair of washers worked nicely for that.\n\nHappy printing!\n\nLeveling with a bubble:\n\n\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n331,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TextGeek,3.452496054252184,5.5628220275029925,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,3.322464497796202,Levelling heads for dual extruder,\"I upgraded to a dual Mk9 extruder, and quickly discovered how critical it is to get the ends of both nozzles exactly level with each other -- that is, equally distant from the build plate at all times. Otherwise the lower one will crash against the plastic just extruded by the higher one.\n\nSo, what's a good procedure for getting the nozzles accurately level? About all I've figure out is to move the heads down close to Z=0, and then run X and Y back and forth and eyeball and adjust; then move even closer to Z=0 and repeat. Is there a better / more efficient way?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"Two good options for ROUGH alignment:\n\n\nFor threaded thermal barrier type extruders: use a leveling jig\nlike this while the extruders are disassembled:\nhttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23013\nFor straight-shaft thermal barrier type extruders: Carefully level\nthe bed to whichever nozzle is lower, using your preferred piece of\npaper / business card / feeler gauge. Then stick the same paper /\nleveling tool under the higher nozzle, release the set screw or\nclamp on the tube, and drop it down to rest on the leveling tool. You can also use a printed jig if your thermal barrier tubes are stuck and need some force to move.\n\n\nThe best and easiest way for FINE alignment:\n\nShims. \n\nJust stick some folded-up aluminum foil (or layers of Kapton, or whatever) under whichever end of the cooling bar is lower, and tighten the screws holding it onto the carriage. Re-adjust as needed until perfectly level. This is ten times more accurate and much easier than trying to get precision alignment of the thermal barrier tubes in the bar itself. \n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n361,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TextGeek,4.856950893332637,6.32371552046145,3.507933925167123,5.199501240805782,4.240216107868139,3.9344800108847138,Advantages of PETG filament?,\"I was just shopping for filament, and saw some glowing claims about PETG being as easy to work with as PLA, but as strong as ABS, and less brittle. Anyone know if that's actually true, or what the tradeoffs are?\n\",Asa D DeBuck,\"PETG is great stuff to work with. It is stronger than ABS also. It prints slower than ABS and PLA. The formulas vary quite a bit from vendor to vendor. I have used 3 brands, and each of their properties vary. \n\nFrom my experience you do have to be careful with moisture. You'll be able to tell you have moisture in your filament if you start hearing a slight hissing and popping and an increased number of structural zits on the object. Moisture will also increase the problem listed in Mark's post below regarding the accumulation of filament on the nozzle.\n\",3.6340916038470805,2.0769199823829045\n361,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TextGeek,4.856950893332637,6.32371552046145,3.507933925167123,5.199501240805782,4.240216107868139,3.9344800108847138,Advantages of PETG filament?,\"I was just shopping for filament, and saw some glowing claims about PETG being as easy to work with as PLA, but as strong as ABS, and less brittle. Anyone know if that's actually true, or what the tradeoffs are?\n\",hilo90mhz,\"PETG is great, but definitely not as easy to print as PLA. However the advantages of higher impact resistance, temperature resistance and longevity make it superior to PLA for parts that require those properties. ABS is even harder to print than PETG and has worse strength and layer adhesion so no reason to bother with it in my opinion. \n\nI print PETG at 80°C bed temp on PEI bed material, with 250°C nozzle temp. At first I was trying my old BuildTak bed material and it works at 40°C but the base of my parts was warping up some, it still worked but they didn't come out flat. \n\nIf you raise the temp on BuildTak to 80°C bed then the PETG permanently bonds to the BuildTak and rips up pieces of it upon removal. \n\nPEI at 80°C keeps the base of printed parts perfectly flat (up to a certain part size/thickness) and has good adhesion and release properties with no wear showing on the bed after many prints. \n\nIf your parts are 100% infill and over about 3/4\"\" (20 mm) tall you may still have problems with the base not ending up completely flat. In such large rigid parts the upper area that does not stay properly heated through conduction from the bed will shrink some and pull the lower sections up with it. Lower fill density like 50%, 20% help with this problem.\n\nPETG build up on the nozzle was a real problem for me until I got a silicone sleeved hotend, E3D is the only one who makes them that I know of right now, but I am sure there will be others shortly. This completely fixed the problem of filament sticking to the hot nozzle and later being deposited as black charred blobs. \n\nAnother thing to consider is moisture, after even a day in high humidity PETG absorbs enough moisture to undergo hydrolysis upon extrusion at 250°C and become very brittle. To avoid this I use a conventional food dehydrator with the plastic being fed from inside, you can lookup designs on Thingiverse.\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n386,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TextGeek,4.146747269907207,4.684440333458843,4.072585167927022,4.022883302450398,3.749318730431847,3.8163118060828776,Making your own filament,\"I\"\"m considering making my own filament, with a device like the one at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:380987. Partly because it's another machine to build, which is cool, but also to save money on filament.\n\nHas anyone here tried to make their own filament? My main questions are:\n\n\nIs the quality comparable to typical off-the-shelf filaments? Put another way, with reasonable tuning can one produce filament that's good enough to use without a lot of frustration?\nDoes it require a lot of attention to tuning, monitoring, or other details (which make it less worthwhile / more time-consuming)? Warning of pitfalls to avoid is also welcome.\nAre there useful things one can do this way, that are hard to achieve with off-the-shelf filaments? For example, unusual materials; better control of diameter, density, etc; or mixing one's own colors?\n\n\",Josip Ivic,\"You can basically use any machine that pulverizes your pellets into small pieces.\n\nOne guy on 3dhubs, explained it in details.\n\nMy conclusion is that you can recycle everything using this data gathered from research up in link there. \n\nAlso, you can use any plastic material and pulverize it into pellets (even from the bottles) and you can try to do this process. Only thing that matters is quality of product.\n\nI was thinking about pellets from vinyl records. I bought one big collection before one year, and there was around 500-600 records that are completley useless. So, you can pulverize them and repeat the process, because process of making vinyl records and process of making bottles is completley different, and uses different kind of plastics. \n\nSo to draw a conslusion: everything depends on quality of pellets.\n\nAnd to answer on your three questions:\n\n\n Is the quality comparable to typical off-the-shelf filaments? Put\n another way, with reasonable tuning can one produce filament that's\n good enough to use without a lot of frustration?\n\n\nNo, it isn't Your filament would be lower quality if you don't get a great pellets.\n\n\n Does it require a lot of attention to tuning, monitoring, or other\n details (which make it less worthwhile / more time-consuming)? Warning\n of pitfalls to avoid is also welcome.\n\n\nYes it does. Check the link up there.\n\n\n Are there useful things one can do this way, that are hard to achieve\n with off-the-shelf filaments? For example, unusual materials; better\n control of diameter, density, etc; or mixing one's own colors?\n\n\nAgain, it all depends on type of filament you like to use. I wrote about plastic filaments.\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n386,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TextGeek,4.146747269907207,4.684440333458843,4.072585167927022,4.022883302450398,3.749318730431847,3.8163118060828776,Making your own filament,\"I\"\"m considering making my own filament, with a device like the one at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:380987. Partly because it's another machine to build, which is cool, but also to save money on filament.\n\nHas anyone here tried to make their own filament? My main questions are:\n\n\nIs the quality comparable to typical off-the-shelf filaments? Put another way, with reasonable tuning can one produce filament that's good enough to use without a lot of frustration?\nDoes it require a lot of attention to tuning, monitoring, or other details (which make it less worthwhile / more time-consuming)? Warning of pitfalls to avoid is also welcome.\nAre there useful things one can do this way, that are hard to achieve with off-the-shelf filaments? For example, unusual materials; better control of diameter, density, etc; or mixing one's own colors?\n\n\",Leo Ervin,\"\nQuality depends on 3 things:\n\n\nQuality of pellets (purity, fillers, color)\nWhere/how they are stored before and during the extrusion (humidity, contaminants)\nHave a filter in your extruder to get rid of random junk and air bubbles ending up in your filament (250 micron wire mesh filter)\n\n\n\nThere's no secret formula the filament producing companies have, they just have very efficient and very fast filament producing machines (of course very expensive, too). But when it comes to vanilla ABS or PLA, it's almost the same content.\n\n\nPersonal experience: no. If you get the same pellets, store it in the same place and run your extruder in the same place, it should behave the same.\nI don't think there is some filament mixture you won't be able to find anywhere, but you might be able to make it yourself cheaper. Example: mixing strontium aluminate powder for glow in the dark filament (come in many colors, not just green).\n\n\nI'd recommend this design: http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-your-own-3d-printing-filament-factory-Filame/\nIt produces filament pretty fast (one full 1kg spoon in 3-4 hours). Just make sure you have enough experience to not electrocute yourself while assembling this as the heaters use mains power.\n\nI personally think the commercial \"\"hobby\"\" extruders are not worth the money. I also own the Filastruder and it's just no different and slower than the above, unless you care about a pretty plywood case for your extruder I see no advantage and since it uses off-the-shelf parts itself why bother buying a kit like that than sourcing the parts yourself?\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n540,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TextGeek,4.856950893332637,4.772538615099251,0.0,3.1880595895805834,5.27451926693197,4.837794676599878,Mushy small top layers?,\"I just added a fan to my printer because very small layers seem to come out very badly. For example, the 5mm PLA cube that's the top level of the test shape shown below. Watching closely, I can see that the newly-extruded fiber is pushing the previous layer(s?) around pretty freely. And when the object is finished, the little top cube is bulging, rounded, and still soft to the touch. \n\nThe 2nd-to-top level of the object is also quite small and quick, but often comes out nicely (if anything, it was better before I added the fan).\n\nThe fan is a squirrel-cage with about a 2.5cm square outlet, pointing at the nozzle from about 5cm away, running full speed. The extruder is a Mk9 from http://www.makergeeks.com/duexretopr.html.\n\nI also tried telling pronterface to wait if a level was too brief, but that setting seems not to do anything.\n\nWhat else can I try? It seems like this is a not-enough-cooling problem, but perhaps something else too?\n\n\n\",tbm0115,\"Layer Times\n\nSee my answer to this question and pay particular attention to my suggestion about a minimum layer print time. I'm not sure if all slicing engines provide this option, but I know MakerWare/MakerBot Desktop and (possibly) Slic3r allow this setting.\n\nBasically, when you're extruding smaller features like this, the previous layer(s) are still very hot and possibly very pliable. So, as your nozzle moves around above the previous layer, the nozzle may (and probably will) push some of this molten plastic around. Chances are you can see it to a certain degree while it's printing. You can definitely see this in a most drastic state if you print a tall and small diameter cylinder. You'll notice that the part will become almost exponentially unstable the higher it goes.\n\nBy increasing the time your printer takes to print a single layer, you are allowing the previous layer(s) to cool closer to the ambient temperature of the build space, and hopefully not as molten.\n\nPlease refer to this calculator or a similar one for material cooling times. For a standard shell setting of about 2-3 (0.4mm nozzle) will yield about 130sec to cool down to room temperature. I would recommend (for ABS/PLA at least) about a 15second minimum for each layer, possibly longer depending on the size and spread out of the features.\n\nAlso note that this can be cheated by simply printing multiple items in the same build plate with the same heights (ie. multiples of the same part). Naturally, it will take longer for the machine to print the rest of the parts and therefore allow each layer to cool slightly before being printed over.\n\nActive Cooling\n\nAgain, some slicing engines have an Active Cooling setting. I don't personally have this option setup on my machine, but I believe it regulates the flow of air directed at your nozzle (usually by use of a mounted fan). This can help cool the layers a bit faster. With ABS, this might result in some pretty bad warping mid-print.\n\nFeedrates\n\nTry bringing down your feedrates to provide the printed portions of the current layer more time to cool if the above options aren't available. Note that you might also bring down your hotend temp to shorten the time it takes to cool the plastic.\n\nAll else fails\n\nMy only other suggestion is stated above, try printing duplicates on the same plate. My diagnosis is that the previous layers aren't cooling down enough before the next layer begins.\n\",4.52054463609033,2.0769199823829045\n540,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TextGeek,4.856950893332637,4.772538615099251,0.0,3.1880595895805834,5.27451926693197,4.837794676599878,Mushy small top layers?,\"I just added a fan to my printer because very small layers seem to come out very badly. For example, the 5mm PLA cube that's the top level of the test shape shown below. Watching closely, I can see that the newly-extruded fiber is pushing the previous layer(s?) around pretty freely. And when the object is finished, the little top cube is bulging, rounded, and still soft to the touch. \n\nThe 2nd-to-top level of the object is also quite small and quick, but often comes out nicely (if anything, it was better before I added the fan).\n\nThe fan is a squirrel-cage with about a 2.5cm square outlet, pointing at the nozzle from about 5cm away, running full speed. The extruder is a Mk9 from http://www.makergeeks.com/duexretopr.html.\n\nI also tried telling pronterface to wait if a level was too brief, but that setting seems not to do anything.\n\nWhat else can I try? It seems like this is a not-enough-cooling problem, but perhaps something else too?\n\n\n\",Leo Ervin,\"I believe you might be having an issue with insufficient cooling. Remember the suggestion to have wait times per layer to let the previous layer cool? Well, I think with your setup and print not only do individual layers overheat, but individual parts of each layer. You either need to try more direct or dual fan cooling or maybe use a nozzle with thinner outer diameter which will have less surface to heat the layed down plastic surrounding it.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n652,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TextGeek,3.0576060275493275,4.820780328474433,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,Heatbed control with Pronterface,\"I'm having trouble getting my MendelMax 2's heatbed not to heat up when I want to print without it. I don't get how multiple sources of control relate to each other (same with extrusion temperatures, actually):\n\n\nSlic3r (1.2.9) has settings under Filament Settings / Filament / Bed, for First layer and Other layers (and groups of settings can be saved).\nThe pronterface GUI (Printrun-Mac-10Mar2014) has an \"\"Options\"\" panel where you can set \"\"Bed temperature\"\" (actually, two settings, one for PLA and one for ABS -- though I doubt the software can test which filament is loaded!)\nThe pronterface GUI also has a menu/fill-in labelled \"\"Bed\"\", which works fine to adjust the bed when nothing is printing. The menu there lets you pick from a manually-entered value, \"\"0 (off)\"\", and (apparently) the settings for PLA and ABS from the options panel.\nMarlin's Configuration.h has settings for bed minimum and maximum temps (the non-zero minimum seems to be to prevent running the bed when the thermistor isn't working, to avoid unlimited overheating).\n\n\nI recently tried to print some PLA with no bed heat (using blue tape on the glass build plate). I sliced the model with bed heat off in Slic3r; changed the PLA bed temps in the printerface options panel to 0; and picked the PLA setting in the GUI main screen (and also tried setting \"\"0 (off)\"\" manually.\n\nWhen I started to print the object, the bed turned on and stayed on, maintaining 60C.\n\nI thought of just unplugging the heatbed, but then I expect the print would never start, since it would try to heat up the bed and never succeed.\n\nSo how does the decision about which temperature setting to use, really get made? I have the same question about extruder temps, speeds, accelerations, and other things, too -- whose settings are really in charge?\n\",amra,\"3D printer get the temperature settings from g-code file. The firmware settings for min and max temperature are just safeguards.\n\nYou should verify instructions within the g-code file. If you are not familiar with g-code, take a look to wikipedia. List of g-code instructions for marlin firmware is here.\n\nInstruction responsible for setting bed temperature are M190 and M140. Open your g-code file and search for lines containing them. If you delete these lines then the bed temperature will be not set during print. Additionally it means that it is set by your slicer. \n\nIn Slic3r you should check Printer settings → Custom G-code → Start G-code if it contains one of mentioned instructions and possibly remove it.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n652,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TextGeek,3.0576060275493275,4.820780328474433,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,Heatbed control with Pronterface,\"I'm having trouble getting my MendelMax 2's heatbed not to heat up when I want to print without it. I don't get how multiple sources of control relate to each other (same with extrusion temperatures, actually):\n\n\nSlic3r (1.2.9) has settings under Filament Settings / Filament / Bed, for First layer and Other layers (and groups of settings can be saved).\nThe pronterface GUI (Printrun-Mac-10Mar2014) has an \"\"Options\"\" panel where you can set \"\"Bed temperature\"\" (actually, two settings, one for PLA and one for ABS -- though I doubt the software can test which filament is loaded!)\nThe pronterface GUI also has a menu/fill-in labelled \"\"Bed\"\", which works fine to adjust the bed when nothing is printing. The menu there lets you pick from a manually-entered value, \"\"0 (off)\"\", and (apparently) the settings for PLA and ABS from the options panel.\nMarlin's Configuration.h has settings for bed minimum and maximum temps (the non-zero minimum seems to be to prevent running the bed when the thermistor isn't working, to avoid unlimited overheating).\n\n\nI recently tried to print some PLA with no bed heat (using blue tape on the glass build plate). I sliced the model with bed heat off in Slic3r; changed the PLA bed temps in the printerface options panel to 0; and picked the PLA setting in the GUI main screen (and also tried setting \"\"0 (off)\"\" manually.\n\nWhen I started to print the object, the bed turned on and stayed on, maintaining 60C.\n\nI thought of just unplugging the heatbed, but then I expect the print would never start, since it would try to heat up the bed and never succeed.\n\nSo how does the decision about which temperature setting to use, really get made? I have the same question about extruder temps, speeds, accelerations, and other things, too -- whose settings are really in charge?\n\",Jexoteric,\"Sli3er will control the bed temperature during a print. The options in Pronterface can be used to pre-heat the bed and hot end, or to adjust the temperature during a print. \n\nThe slicer will put the temperatures you set in the filament tab settings into the gcode at the appropriate layers. As the printer reads these codes it will adjust the temperatures. If you manually change the temperature, it will stay at your adjustment until it encounters a line in the gcode file that tells it to change again. Usually this only happens at the start of a print, or at the transition from the first layer to the second layer. \n\nWhen you change the filament settings in Slic3r, they do not save automatically, so if you changed them, closed the program without saving your filament settings, and opened it later, the changes would be lost. \n\nThe other place where temperature can be changed from is in the custom gcode settings, where you can specify operations to be performed at the start of the print, in between layers, or at the end of the print. Take a look there and make sure that there are no codes to change temperature in any of these fields.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n746,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TextGeek,1.726248027126092,3.778765739093726,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Scan to vector?,\"I have some design diagrams only on paper. Scanning them to bitmaps is easy, but I've had no luck getting useful vectors out of them. I've tried vectorizers in programs like gimp, and a few online services. Generally, I end up with enormous numbers of spurious vectors (from dust, dotted lines, text on the diagram, slightly variations in scanning contrast, etc).\n\nWhat tools and/or techniques can I use to get a more useful vector result, that I can then modify in a normal CAD tool without spending absurd amounts of time cleaning it all up first?\n\",tbm0115,\"I would recommend using something like Paint.NET to \"\"fix\"\" the images before attempting to convert them to CAD.\n\nTo my knowledge, most of the Image-to-CAD applications are going to use the grayscale intensity of each pixel to get the Z-axis value. So, you can help this process by pre-filtering the image into grayscale and playing with the contrast until you get enough distinction between the features you want to stand out in your CAD model or print. Here's a quick example using a sample image:\n\nPoor Contrast\n\n\nBetter Contrast\n\n\nWhichever program you use will generally have an easier time detecting the edges of the flower pedals in the second image the further towards the center it goes.\n\nGIMP has greyscale and contrast tools as well.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n746,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TextGeek,1.726248027126092,3.778765739093726,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Scan to vector?,\"I have some design diagrams only on paper. Scanning them to bitmaps is easy, but I've had no luck getting useful vectors out of them. I've tried vectorizers in programs like gimp, and a few online services. Generally, I end up with enormous numbers of spurious vectors (from dust, dotted lines, text on the diagram, slightly variations in scanning contrast, etc).\n\nWhat tools and/or techniques can I use to get a more useful vector result, that I can then modify in a normal CAD tool without spending absurd amounts of time cleaning it all up first?\n\",scruss,\"There is the capable but somewhat expensive Scan2CAD.\n\nOtherwise, if you're happy with outlines and not centre lines, scan b&w, aggressively clean up macules, mask off text, and then vectorize in potrace, autotrace, etc. Alternatively, load the bitmap at the correct resolution into a drawing package as a raster layer and draw the lines/objects you want over it. This avoids the horrors of dotted lines.\n\nBoth ways are quite a bit of work, sadly.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n1089,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TextGeek,3.267423727073639,6.782263901829116,2.7799718631987322,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.531698478710706,Getting better support than Slic3r generates,\"I found a nice model for a ship from the game \"\"Eve\"\". It doesn't have a flat bottom, so it needs support material. But Slic3r generates several dozen tiny support pillars, and one by one they break loose from the build plate. As they get tall, the leverage of course increases, and since they're so tiny they don't have much area in contact with the bed, so they separate. Eventually the whole model broke free, turned a bit, and since I had gone to dinner it kept printing... see below. I think the main problem is the poor support material geometry, but the controls in Slic3r for support material don't seem to give many options.\n\nHow can I get better support material layout? Oh, this is PLA, by the way.\n\n\n\n(appending to question to be able to put in the picture)\n\nI tried a bunch of things, and the MeshMixer support, plus fiddling with several settings, got it to come out pretty well. Thanks to all, esp. @Tormod!\n\n\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"I know many Slic3r users - myself included - add support material to the model itself before importing it into Slic3r. \n\nI personally favour MeshMixer for support generation, as the supports are much more predictable and easily removable. In complicated cases I also add supports in my CAD software. \n\nAlthough a not free, the support generation in Simplify3D is supposed to be great, allowing for custom placement.\n\nI also found this review that compares support settings in Meshmixer, Slic3r and Cura fairly well. Here is the summary:\n\n\n Meshmixer\n \n This support was the most efficient in material use however it required the most manual tweaking to print properly. In addition the marks it left once removed were more noticeable than Cura and (sometimes) Slic3r. While the settings could probably be further modified to improve the performance this support type appears the most limited for future improvements.\n \n Slic3r\n \n The support's performance was variable - by far the best in some situations (fox's head and tale) however the worst to remove with the most obvious marks in other areas of the same model. This may be down to my chosen settings and with some more tweaking I may get better results. The most obvious general flaw is that it does not leave a big enough gap between the support and the unsupported areas of the model (like the foxes legs or the lower roots of the planter)\n \n Cura\n \n While some of the support left marks, overall it was the easiest to generate support which performed consistently well. Once again though slight tweaks could improve this further for specific models. \n \n Overall Cura wins my \"\"no time to tweak - got to make it work now\"\" award.\n\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n1089,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TextGeek,3.267423727073639,6.782263901829116,2.7799718631987322,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.531698478710706,Getting better support than Slic3r generates,\"I found a nice model for a ship from the game \"\"Eve\"\". It doesn't have a flat bottom, so it needs support material. But Slic3r generates several dozen tiny support pillars, and one by one they break loose from the build plate. As they get tall, the leverage of course increases, and since they're so tiny they don't have much area in contact with the bed, so they separate. Eventually the whole model broke free, turned a bit, and since I had gone to dinner it kept printing... see below. I think the main problem is the poor support material geometry, but the controls in Slic3r for support material don't seem to give many options.\n\nHow can I get better support material layout? Oh, this is PLA, by the way.\n\n\n\n(appending to question to be able to put in the picture)\n\nI tried a bunch of things, and the MeshMixer support, plus fiddling with several settings, got it to come out pretty well. Thanks to all, esp. @Tormod!\n\n\n\",darth pixel,\"I see more important things on your photo. \n\n\nFilament layers are not sticked together, even these on the first layer (on the bed).\nNext is that lines are not staight but they are wavy. \n\n\nThis suggests that you should try \n\n\nincrease HE temperature\nset speed of the first layer (20% of normal speed)\ndecrease first layer thickness\nincrease extrude rate for the first layer\n\n\nOf course (answering your question) there are other types of support material. \nThe most stable should be honeycomb but it will not work for you if you will not tune up printing parameters.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1102,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TextGeek,2.8153892694839717,3.856325384931162,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Stone-look surface via painting?,\"Has anyone tried painting a PLA (or other) print with stone-look spray paints? In particular, how does the result look compared to printing with stone-fill filaments? It looks a lot cheaper, but will it look inferior?\n\nOne such paint: http://www.krylon.com/press-room/press-releases/2013/04/add-a-touch-of-nature-to-your-next-project-with-new-natural-stone-textured-finish/?\n\nOne such filament: https://www.matterhackers.com/store/3d-printer-filament?t=LAYBRICK\n\",exb2800,\"It's totally possible to achieve but the result vastly depends on your painting skills and your spray paint quality. \n\nYour can look at this page for a concrete example. \n\nHow it compares to stone filament is fairly subjective though. Painting a 3D print usually breaks down in 3 steps : \n\n\nSmoothing out the lines. \nAchieved by either sanding the print or using acetone\nApply coating.\nEnsures a better adhesion for the paint\nApply spray paint\n\n\nIf any of these steps are neglected, the final result won't look as good as using stone filament. However, if the quality of you stone filament is really bad, painting will offer a better result.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n4196,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TextGeek,1.726248027126092,4.058079670446898,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Laser engraving software for Boxzy 3D printer,\"I have a laser-engraving \"\"head\"\" for one of my 3D printers (a Boxzy, so it's designed for it, not just strapping a random laser onto something), and I'd like to try using it to, well, engrave something. So:\n\n\nCan anyone point me to some control software for this? \n\n\nThe Boxzy came with a license to Fusion360, but I found that nearly impossible to use (or maybe understand), and it wasn't clear how to apply it to engraving anyway (as opposed to milling or regular FDM printing).\n\nI suppose I could just sketch out a thin 3D extrusion of the text or design, and print it in the usual way, setting the layer-height and/or scaling so it only \"\"prints\"\" one or 2 layers. I guess turning the laser on and off counts as turning the extruder motor on and off... But that's clearly a hack. Any \"\"real\"\" software for this sort of thing?\n\nAny other hints are also welcome.\n\nI'm thinking of writing my own software to generate G-code for this, though rasterizing fonts sounds painful in something like OpenScad... Must be a better way...\n\",markshancock,\"Autodesk must have been reading your mind.\n\nA brand new video just got posted today from Autodesk on how to do this in F360.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n208,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,S.L. Barth - Reinstate Monica,3.618048892289167,4.364090894915614,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.082726318457765,What is the life expectancy of the Kossel?,\"I'm considering buying this package, the Kossel, as my first 3D printer. \n\nIt's not the cheapest model, but apparently a high resolution and stable, which is what I'm after.\n\nThe question is, what is the life expectancy of this printer, given the component list?\nAssuming the printer is constructed properly and properly taken care of, but used once or twice a week for several hours.\n\nIs it possible to make an estimate of how many years this particular printer could be used before it starts showing signs of wear? \n\nParts list:\n\n1x Complete set of platics for Kossel Mini (PLA)\n1x Kossel mini Extrusion set\n1x traxxas (set of 12)\n1x Carbon Tube (kossel printing arms) Set of 6\n3x Square slider (40cm)\n1x Megatronics v3.0 - Kossel kit\n1x Heated Bed glass round 17cm diameter (Borosilicate)\n1x Kapton heater mat round 16cm diameter\n1x Power supply 12V (240/115V / 20A MAX)\n3x Aluminum Pulley GT2\n5x Timing belt 1m x 6mm (GT2)\n1x E3D v6 - HotEnd Full Kit - 1.75mm\n1x Hobbed bolt v1.1\n1x Brass drive gear (Wade's compatible)\n6x Bearing 623ZZ\n125x (1 pcs) Screw M3X8 Philips\n125x (1 pcs) Washer M3 normal\n125x (1 pcs) Nut M3 normal\n6x (1 pcs) Screw M3X16 Philips\n12x (1 pcs) Screw M3X25 Philips\n6x (1 pcs) Screw M3X20 Philips\n10x PTFE tubing, 2inner/4outer diameter (10cm)\n1x Bowden setup - J head comp. plug set (1.75mm)\n1x E3D v6 - Threaded Bowden Coupling - 1.75mm\n2x (1 pcs) Screw M3X40 Philips\n6x (1 pcs) Screw M2X16 Philips\n1x Power cable 1.8m\n6x M4 Threaded rod - Custom length \n\",Matt Clark,\"Much like your car, the number of miles, or the number of prints that you can get out of it is entirely up to how well you can maintain it.\n\nA 3D Printer is a machine, and a machine needs general maintenance; if you see something starting to break - or get worn out - or anything abnormal, fix it.\n\nI am sure that if you had something like a MakerBot, it would require less maintenance then a fully home built machine, but if you are building it from scratch, I am sure you don't mind.\n\nI am still rocking a 3 year old home built MendalMax, and have both made some improvements, and had to make some repairs along the way - but it is still in damn good condition.\n\nFor a $600 investment, I can say you will get a few years out of it if you take proper care of it. By the time the end of its life comes (5+ years), I am sure there will be much better printers available for cheaper, and you will never look back :)\n\n\nTighten all your nuts and bolts\nKeep it calibrated\nKeep belts properly tensioned\nOil X, Y, and Z rods\nClean of any dust and scrap plastic (compressed air can?)\nClean hobbed bolt\nClean extruder\nEnsure all electronic connections are secure\nCheck wires at points of movement for wear\n\n\n!remindme 5years\n\",3.0411126502294303,0.0\n208,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,S.L. Barth - Reinstate Monica,3.618048892289167,4.364090894915614,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.082726318457765,What is the life expectancy of the Kossel?,\"I'm considering buying this package, the Kossel, as my first 3D printer. \n\nIt's not the cheapest model, but apparently a high resolution and stable, which is what I'm after.\n\nThe question is, what is the life expectancy of this printer, given the component list?\nAssuming the printer is constructed properly and properly taken care of, but used once or twice a week for several hours.\n\nIs it possible to make an estimate of how many years this particular printer could be used before it starts showing signs of wear? \n\nParts list:\n\n1x Complete set of platics for Kossel Mini (PLA)\n1x Kossel mini Extrusion set\n1x traxxas (set of 12)\n1x Carbon Tube (kossel printing arms) Set of 6\n3x Square slider (40cm)\n1x Megatronics v3.0 - Kossel kit\n1x Heated Bed glass round 17cm diameter (Borosilicate)\n1x Kapton heater mat round 16cm diameter\n1x Power supply 12V (240/115V / 20A MAX)\n3x Aluminum Pulley GT2\n5x Timing belt 1m x 6mm (GT2)\n1x E3D v6 - HotEnd Full Kit - 1.75mm\n1x Hobbed bolt v1.1\n1x Brass drive gear (Wade's compatible)\n6x Bearing 623ZZ\n125x (1 pcs) Screw M3X8 Philips\n125x (1 pcs) Washer M3 normal\n125x (1 pcs) Nut M3 normal\n6x (1 pcs) Screw M3X16 Philips\n12x (1 pcs) Screw M3X25 Philips\n6x (1 pcs) Screw M3X20 Philips\n10x PTFE tubing, 2inner/4outer diameter (10cm)\n1x Bowden setup - J head comp. plug set (1.75mm)\n1x E3D v6 - Threaded Bowden Coupling - 1.75mm\n2x (1 pcs) Screw M3X40 Philips\n6x (1 pcs) Screw M2X16 Philips\n1x Power cable 1.8m\n6x M4 Threaded rod - Custom length \n\",Dimitri Modderman,\"I have built a Kossel too. Got lots of tips from the Google Deltaprinter group.\nMost important when using the Traxxas rod ends is to have the metal parts go into the freezer and the plastic parts in warm water(not boiling, just 60 degrees celsius or so). Then put the 2 together, due to the fact the metal crimps just a little and the hot water softens the plastic a bit, they will fit easy and will be stiff longer. These mounts tend to wear out causing play in the effector. I have printed 100's of hours on my Kossel mini with traxxas rods and still moves very nice and prints accurately.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n211,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,S.L. Barth - Reinstate Monica,3.618048892289167,4.78081876495391,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.9829738809469584,What material can I use to make my own cake molds?,\"I would like to make custom cake molds. \n\nI've asked about this in a few stores that specialize in cooking equipment, they said this wasn't possible. \n\nI wonder if 3D printing makes it possible. It would require a material that is food-safe, as per Which are the food-safe materials and how do I recognize them?\n\nHowever, there are two extra conditions:\n\n\nThe material must be able to withstand the heat of an oven or microwave, and not mix with the dough.\nIt should not be too difficult to remove the cake from the mold after it is ready.\n\n\nThe first condition is where this question is a little different from Can you use PLA material with food and drinks? - that question is about cutlery and glasses, not about things that go into the oven or microwave.\n\nIs there a material that can be used for this purpose?\n\",Matt Clark,\"I would say that FDM printing in general is out of the question for this task, ABS and PLA would both melt in the oven, and the grooves in the print from the FDM process would make it a nightmare to clean.\n\nMy initial thought was an SLA printer ( $1000+ ) which uses a Photopolymer Resin hardened by a UV light, and based on its medical uses, I would think that it is food safe - I do not know what its melting point is however.\n\nAnother idea, one that would not too easily be done in house, is porcelain. \n\nShapeways offers a service that you could use for this - they say just $9 per part, 125 x 125 x 200mm maximum dimms, both food and oven safe.\n\",3.0411126502294303,0.0\n211,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,S.L. Barth - Reinstate Monica,3.618048892289167,4.78081876495391,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.9829738809469584,What material can I use to make my own cake molds?,\"I would like to make custom cake molds. \n\nI've asked about this in a few stores that specialize in cooking equipment, they said this wasn't possible. \n\nI wonder if 3D printing makes it possible. It would require a material that is food-safe, as per Which are the food-safe materials and how do I recognize them?\n\nHowever, there are two extra conditions:\n\n\nThe material must be able to withstand the heat of an oven or microwave, and not mix with the dough.\nIt should not be too difficult to remove the cake from the mold after it is ready.\n\n\nThe first condition is where this question is a little different from Can you use PLA material with food and drinks? - that question is about cutlery and glasses, not about things that go into the oven or microwave.\n\nIs there a material that can be used for this purpose?\n\",1337joe,\"The biggest problem I see with using a Kossel (or any FDM printer) is that to print the mold directly you'd need a plastic with a low enough melting point you can print it and a high enough melting point you can bake it.\n\nFrom this list of filaments (which admittedly shows printing temperatures, not melting temperatures) Polycarbonate and Polycarbonate-ABS are printed at 250+ C, while a brief search found cake baking temperatures from 175 to 200 C.\n\nAccording to this, polycarbonate is already used for food-safe containers, though you'd still need to worry about printing in a food-safe manner and surface finishing as in the question you linked.\n\nThose two facts suggest it might be possible to print a polycarbonate mold and bake in it, though IMO there's a much better way to achieve the same result: print a positive of the mold in whatever material you want, smooth the print for better finish quality, then use food grade silicone to make the mold from the finished print.\n\",3.0411126502294303,0.0\n358,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,S.L. Barth - Reinstate Monica,4.451824357011064,5.002721222948515,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,5.024356785862165,4.592941926651472,Which resolution is needed for bricks compatible with Lego?,\"I found a story about someone 3D-printing equipment for their Lego minifig, using an Ultimaker. (Article is in Dutch, but accompanied by photographs).\n\nI noticed that what they made weren't the actual connecting bricks, but the tools used by the minifig. And that even so, some filing and a dremel were needed afterwards to make them fit properly.\n\nI'm told that to make something connect properly with real Lego, the machine needs to be tuned very precisely. \n\nSo, what resolution is needed to print bricks that will connect with normal Lego bricks?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"It's really more about calibration than resolution -- a poorly calibrated printer will have dimension errors that prevent mating with true LEGO bricks or other printed bricks. \n\nAlso, \"\"resolution\"\" is an incredibly loaded term for 3d printers, because it can mean a lot of different things. But we don't need to get into that right now. There are really two big things to worry about: layer height and extrusion width.\n\nLayer heights of 0.1mm or 0.2mm should be fine. Coarser layers may run into surface finish issues that make the bricks difficult to put together or take apart. There probably isn't much reason to go finer than 0.1mm for this application. Almost all FFF printers can do 0.1mm layer heights as long as it is reasonably well-tuned.\n\nAny typical household FFF printer with a \"\"normal\"\" nozzle size can print fine enough for the bricks to work. It just needs to be tuned well. The smallest \"\"must have\"\" feature in a standard lego brick is the 1.6mm thick wall around the sides. The typical minimum printable feature size for an FFF printer is 2x the extrusion width, because the slicer will place a path on the inside edge of the shape and the outside edge of the shape. (Some slicers will allow single-extrusion features, but this is not generally recommended because it makes weak parts.) \n\nSo, how wide is the extrusion width? It's adjustable, and different slicers auto-recommend different values, but as a safe rule of thumb it needs to be between 1x and 2x your nozzle size. There are some volume calculation quirks in different slicers that may encourage larger or smaller sizes, so sometimes people recommend [extrusion width = nozzle size + layer height] particularly with Slic3r. This is very system-specific. \n\nAssuming you have the most common stock nozzle with a 0.4mm orifice, and also set the extrusion width to 0.4mm, the slicer should put four strands in the walls of the LEGO brick. That's good. \n\nWhere it gets tricky is if you have an extrusion width that does not evenly divide into 1.6mm. Say you are printing with an extrusion width of 0.6mm. There is enough room in the wall of the part to place two full 0.6mm perimeter strands... but then a gap 0.4mm wide will be left in the center. You can't put another 0.6mm strand into that 0.4mm gap. Different slicers handle this different ways. Some will leave an empty space between the walls, and you get a very weak print. Some will mash an excessive amount of plastic into the gap, causing poor print quality as excess material builds up more and more on each layer. Some will push a smaller-than-commanded strand to try to properly fill the volume. \n\nSo, the general advice with small features is to make sure your extrusion width goes into the part's minimum thickness a reasonable number of times.\n\n\n[Feature size / extrusion width < 2] is BAD \n[Feature size / extrusion width = 2] is GOOD \n[2 < Feature size / extrusion width < 3] is BAD \n[Feature size / extrusion width > 3] is GOOD\n\n\nAlthough these will vary somewhat by slicer -- older slicers like Skeinforge tend to have more issues with this than newer slicers. What you should do in practice is check your slicer's print previewer to see whether it is leaving a gap between the strands. Then adjust extrusion width and perimeter/shell count to try to get an intelligent output. There's some trial and error involved.\n\",4.306142032796979,0.0\n358,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,S.L. Barth - Reinstate Monica,4.451824357011064,5.002721222948515,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,5.024356785862165,4.592941926651472,Which resolution is needed for bricks compatible with Lego?,\"I found a story about someone 3D-printing equipment for their Lego minifig, using an Ultimaker. (Article is in Dutch, but accompanied by photographs).\n\nI noticed that what they made weren't the actual connecting bricks, but the tools used by the minifig. And that even so, some filing and a dremel were needed afterwards to make them fit properly.\n\nI'm told that to make something connect properly with real Lego, the machine needs to be tuned very precisely. \n\nSo, what resolution is needed to print bricks that will connect with normal Lego bricks?\n\",Joel Coehoorn,\"I have notes about printing Lego bricks here:\n\n\n https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3424550\n\n\nThe upshot is, you want to align the wall thickness of your brick model edges to match an exact multiple of nozzle thickness of your printer. This is more important than using an STL file that exactly matches real Lego dimensions, because your slicer and printer are unlikely to be able to match those dimensions anyway. And because of that, you'll need other adjustments to the bricks to help them fit well with each other and with real Legos.\n\nAdditionally, while it is well-understand that Lego bricks use a 1.6mm \"\"Lego Unit\"\" for their standard edge thickness, it's less-well understand how they use an additional .1mm \"\"Play Factor\"\" to help bricks to fit together better. Based on my tests, this play factor is removed from both sides of an edge, such that a standard Lego edge wall should be 1.4mm thick. \n\nPut this all together, and I've found you want to aim for 1.2mm edges when using a .4mm nozzle, and 1.5mm edges when using .5mm nozzle. \n\nAlternatively, a .4mm nozzle can do real 1.4mm Lego edges by only using 1 line for the outer walls, and filling in the remaining .6mm of thickness. Personally, I never want to use just 1 line for a wall, and 1.5x the nozzle diameter is also the bare minimum I'd trust for filling in to work well, making this plan a challenge, too.\n\nThe thingiverse piece I linked to is actually a customizable brick generator, that will let you make fine adjustments and help you create brick STL models based on your printer, your slicer and settings, and your material, that will print well and fit with other bricks.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n743,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,S.L. Barth - Reinstate Monica,2.528907649931287,3.934757405499744,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,How to build the extruder motor holder for the Kossel Mini,\"I'm building a Kossel Mini, and I'm stuck on the extruder motor holder.\n\nMy Kossel came without instructions, I was given a set of instructions by a friend (the \"\"Kossel Build Guide\"\" by Blomker industries). I also found some instructions on the net. However, my components are different from those in the build guides.\n\nThe question is how these components fit together. \n\nI'm pretty certain the stepper motor should be connected to the big black components (labeled (1) and (4) in the picture). The 4 holes in these components correspond to openings in the stepper motor; and the stepper motors for the vertical carriages, were connected in a similar way to their respective holders.\n\nThe round thing, second from the left on the bottom, (labeled (2) in the picture) presumably goes on the axis of the stepper motor. Once again, a similar procedure was needed for the motors that will move the vertical carriages.\n\nThe screws on the right, labeled (3), are 1 cm long and 3 mm wide.\n\nThe other screws are 2 cm long and 3 mm wide.\n\nThe stepper motor is a Wantai Stepper Motor Model 42BYGHW811 .\n\nI have e-mailed the company where I bought my kit and am awaiting their answer. Meanwhile I'm hoping to get some advice here.\n\nApparently the usual stepper motor for a Kossel Mini is Nema 17. Searching on \"\"42BYGHW811\"\" I mostly find datasheets. Using \"\"Nema 17 mount\"\" or \"\"Nema 17 mounting screws\"\" as search terms, I find a lot of images with a component like (1). But nothing on how this and the other components should be put together for the motor holder for an extruder for the Kossel Mini.\n\n\n\",kamuro,\"Have a look at the image provided in this seller's part description. it probably says more than my words could (which would also only rely on images - your parts just looked like I saw them somewhere before). \n\n3D printer parts right hand Bowden Extruder kit set no motor compact extruder aluminum alloy for\n\n\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n743,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,S.L. Barth - Reinstate Monica,2.528907649931287,3.934757405499744,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,How to build the extruder motor holder for the Kossel Mini,\"I'm building a Kossel Mini, and I'm stuck on the extruder motor holder.\n\nMy Kossel came without instructions, I was given a set of instructions by a friend (the \"\"Kossel Build Guide\"\" by Blomker industries). I also found some instructions on the net. However, my components are different from those in the build guides.\n\nThe question is how these components fit together. \n\nI'm pretty certain the stepper motor should be connected to the big black components (labeled (1) and (4) in the picture). The 4 holes in these components correspond to openings in the stepper motor; and the stepper motors for the vertical carriages, were connected in a similar way to their respective holders.\n\nThe round thing, second from the left on the bottom, (labeled (2) in the picture) presumably goes on the axis of the stepper motor. Once again, a similar procedure was needed for the motors that will move the vertical carriages.\n\nThe screws on the right, labeled (3), are 1 cm long and 3 mm wide.\n\nThe other screws are 2 cm long and 3 mm wide.\n\nThe stepper motor is a Wantai Stepper Motor Model 42BYGHW811 .\n\nI have e-mailed the company where I bought my kit and am awaiting their answer. Meanwhile I'm hoping to get some advice here.\n\nApparently the usual stepper motor for a Kossel Mini is Nema 17. Searching on \"\"42BYGHW811\"\" I mostly find datasheets. Using \"\"Nema 17 mount\"\" or \"\"Nema 17 mounting screws\"\" as search terms, I find a lot of images with a component like (1). But nothing on how this and the other components should be put together for the motor holder for an extruder for the Kossel Mini.\n\n\n\",Greenonline,\"The extruder is an MK8 derivative, I think.\n\nAfter a lot of searching, the closest that I could find (with an assembly diagram) is this product which has more or less the same parts as yours (apart from the small black bolt and sleeve - used as the axis - which you don't have): [Improved Version] YOTINO Right Hand MK8 Remote Bowden Extruder Accessories 1.75mm/3mm Filament All Metal Remote Extruder Frame Block for Reprap 3D Printer Kossel Prusa.\n\nThese are the parts:\n\n\n \n\n\nThis is the assembly process:\n\n\n \n\n\nThis is the completed extruder:\n\n\n \n\n\n\n\nAlso, whilst this is not the same beast, this link shows a detailed assembly which could prove useful as a cross reference: RepRapWiki - Extruder assembly\n\nIn addition, w.r.t the Blomker guide, there are a number of versions of the same guide that I've come across in the past:\n\n\nKossel Mini Build Guide by Blomker - which has a very different extruder to the MK8\nKossel Mini Build Guide By Sintron - which has a similar MK8 extruder but, rather unfortunately, no assembly details, only the finished article is shown, on page 58\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1045,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,S.L. Barth - Reinstate Monica,1.0891412423578797,2.887737754437414,2.7799718631987322,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,What are the modifications on this Kossel?,\"(This question is a kind of self-answer. I know who built this printer, he explained the modifications, and I thought it might be interesting for others too. I've asked him to answer this question, to keep this information on Stack Exchange. I realize this question in its current form may be \"\"Too Broad\"\", feel free to edit to make it more specific).\n\n\n\nI saw this Kossel Mini printer, and noted that it has some modifications. I'm told this is to make it easier to transport, and would like to know how these modifications make it more robust and more transportable.\n\n\n\",Dimitri Modderman,\"Cool you placed my Kossel Mini on Stackexchange!\nWhat I have modified to the standard kit:\n\n\nRetractable probe using RC Marlin (Rich Cattels Marlin with auto bed probe functionality). Never have to adjust endstops after it is once setup.\nAll can be done in firmware.\nMade a transport case, in the picture the cover is missing which is a triangular case which fits over the printer.\nYou can clip it on and the carry it with the handle on top.\nI just throw it in the car and bring it to the Hackerspace and Hackerevents/Makerfaires and when I feel to it, I can do an auto-probe to align it again (which is hardly needed BTW)\nAnother mod is the Vaeder extruder, which is really cool in the way it uses a GT2 timing belt to drive the filament. It uses a round wheel and it drives the filament over 1/4 of the diameter of the wheel, so there is a 3 to 4 cm area where the belt drives the filament.\n\n\nAdvantages: \n\n\nLots of retracts don't \"\"eat\"\" into the filament causing feed issues\nDoesn't flatten the filament. Keeps it nice and round.\n\n\nDisadvantages (at this moment):\n\n\nNot possible/ very hard to do filament swaps on the fly (to experiment with multicolor prints).\nFirst time assembly can be a head ache, once you have it assembled it really works and is easy going.\n\n\nAnd last but not least. I made a foldable Roll holder.\n\nIt is mounted on top by two M8 screws with knobs. When I am done I undo these two screws, fold in the roll holder and it is then mounted to the side of the flight case. This way I can transport printer and roll holder carrying it only using 1 hand. So I use the other hand carrying the bag with accessories like rolls of filament, 3D spray, tweezers etc.\n\nMaybe this info helps other people new to 3D printing improve their printers, or enables them to bring printers more easily to meets and events to inspire others to build more Delta printers. As it's just mesmerizing to see them print. I love watching the print come to reality because it such beautiful piece of engineering!\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n209,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Martin Carney,3.0576060275493275,4.705963424335101,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,How can I optimize my print for casting in metal?,\"A fellow maker has tried printing a 3D model in clear PLA (<5% infill, 1 or 2 perimeters), burying it most of the way into casting sand, and then pouring molten aluminum. This melts and burns the PLA, and the aluminum takes the space that the printed model used to take.\n\nThere's plenty of room for improvement in his process, but I'm asking about what he can do in terms of the 3D printing process to make his prints more casting-friendly.\n\nWhat print settings are (generally) best for use in this sort of casting?\n\nWhat materials, if any, would work better than unpigmented PLA? (Must be a material that a typical thermoplastic FDM printer can handle.)\n\nAny other tips or considerations?\n\",Leo Ervin,\"Print a two part negative (mold) of your objects.\nhttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31581\n\nhttps://pinshape.com/blog/how-to-generate-a-3d-printed-mold-for-an-object/\n\nMelt and pour wax into the mold. Praffin wax melts at only 37C, not an issue for both PLA and ABS.\nUse the wax object for casting, not ABS/PLA/etc.\nThe mold is also reusable this way.\n\nTo prevent the wax from sticking to the mold, something might be applied to the surface. Oil maybe?\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n209,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Martin Carney,3.0576060275493275,4.705963424335101,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,How can I optimize my print for casting in metal?,\"A fellow maker has tried printing a 3D model in clear PLA (<5% infill, 1 or 2 perimeters), burying it most of the way into casting sand, and then pouring molten aluminum. This melts and burns the PLA, and the aluminum takes the space that the printed model used to take.\n\nThere's plenty of room for improvement in his process, but I'm asking about what he can do in terms of the 3D printing process to make his prints more casting-friendly.\n\nWhat print settings are (generally) best for use in this sort of casting?\n\nWhat materials, if any, would work better than unpigmented PLA? (Must be a material that a typical thermoplastic FDM printer can handle.)\n\nAny other tips or considerations?\n\",ArkTekniK,\"Typical procedure on the casting is to use the lost-wax method, and using PLA is absolutely fine.\n\n\nPrint your part at around 101% - 103% size\nAttach flues to the part (or have them part of the model)\nCast the part in a mixture of sand and plaster of paris\nOnce set, burn out the PLA in a furnace.\nClean the mould of debris\nPour your metal of choice\n\n\nFor a more detailed reference, check out the following:\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WWVVSZP3Au4\n\nRegarding the printing itself, my only advice is to use a small layer height and carefully clean up the part before casting\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n210,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Martin Carney,3.267423727073639,5.32695148040777,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.488653845767225,How do I calculate the cost of a 3D print once it's done?,\"How do I determine how much an individual print costs?\n\nI'd like an answer including support material, failed prints, and (ideally) wear and tear / printer maintenance costs.\n\nTo clarify, I'm not asking how to predict the cost before printing, but rather how to calculate the actual cost after printing. Though predicting the cost beforehand is useful as well.\n\",Jeff,\"For FDM printing: \n\nBoth Cura and Makerbot Desktop (and perhaps others I'm not as familiar with) will give you a preview of both the length and weight of your print, including supports/rafts. Once the print is done you can weigh it on a kitchen scale.\n\nPLA Filament currently runs about \\$23/kg on Amazon, which works out to \\$0.023/g. Multiplication can then give you a good estimate of materials costs for a print.\n\nOnly experience with your specific printer will give you an idea of how often you're going to hit a failed print, and how often you're going to need to replace parts. For wear and tear you could try using a depreciation model of 2-3 years, but that's only an estimate.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n210,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Martin Carney,3.267423727073639,5.32695148040777,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.488653845767225,How do I calculate the cost of a 3D print once it's done?,\"How do I determine how much an individual print costs?\n\nI'd like an answer including support material, failed prints, and (ideally) wear and tear / printer maintenance costs.\n\nTo clarify, I'm not asking how to predict the cost before printing, but rather how to calculate the actual cost after printing. Though predicting the cost beforehand is useful as well.\n\",Oliver Nelson,\"I recently faced the problem of calculating the cost of my printed 3D models. I wanted to know what their real value had to be counted in Excel. It was really inconvenient. Then I found a program for counting, it turned out really great, even takes into account the electricity. This is not an advertisement just throwing, maybe someone also encountered such a problem.\nhttps://codecanyon.net/item/mcc-3d-model-cost-calculation-for-3d-printer/24033425\nI was interested in the question who solved the given problem in what ways?\n\",0.0,0.0\n212,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Martin Carney,4.993671754199731,7.27917452467814,4.072585167927022,4.022883302450398,4.620985695623129,3.9829738809469584,How do I determine the acceleration value for my printer?,\"When the print head changes direction, the printer must accelerate and decelerate the print head. When calibrated correctly, the printer is able to do this quickly and without causing the printer to shake too much, without drastically slowing down the print process.\n\nIf I set it too high, my printer shakes violently, especially during infill. If I set it too low, print times are doubled or tripled.\n\nWhat process can I follow to determine (or how can I calculate) the fastest acceleration value my printer can use without causing problems in my print?\n\nI'd prefer a process I can follow over a formula I can plug values into, especially if the formula includes magic numbers.\n\",TextGeek,\"As Tom pointed out, binary search is the best way. In case that term isn't familiar to all readers, here's a little more detail:\n\n\nEstablish an acceleration value that you're sure is too low (call it $L$), and one that you're sure is too high ($H$). It sounds like you know such values already from experience.\nFigure out the speed in the middle: $(L+H)/2$. Call that $M$.\nTry printing at speed $M$. Something like a stepped calibration cube might be a good choice of object (plenty available on Thingiverse).\nIf $M$ is still too fast, take $M$ as your new high-speed limit (that is, reset $H$ to the value of $M$), and repeat from step #2.\nIf it's slow enough to work, take $M$ as your new low-speed limit ($L$), and repeat from step #2.\n\n\nEach repetition will cut the range in half. Keep repeating until $L$ and $H$ get as close as you want; say, within 5 % of each other or so.\n\nI wouldn't bother trying to get super-close, because the workable value will vary somewhat over time (friction from dust getting on various parts; slight voltage differences; different mass and pulling tension for the filament roll, temperature of motors, complexity of the object you're printing, behavior of the slicing program you use, you name it).\n\",3.9604314711224866,2.0769199823829045\n212,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Martin Carney,4.993671754199731,7.27917452467814,4.072585167927022,4.022883302450398,4.620985695623129,3.9829738809469584,How do I determine the acceleration value for my printer?,\"When the print head changes direction, the printer must accelerate and decelerate the print head. When calibrated correctly, the printer is able to do this quickly and without causing the printer to shake too much, without drastically slowing down the print process.\n\nIf I set it too high, my printer shakes violently, especially during infill. If I set it too low, print times are doubled or tripled.\n\nWhat process can I follow to determine (or how can I calculate) the fastest acceleration value my printer can use without causing problems in my print?\n\nI'd prefer a process I can follow over a formula I can plug values into, especially if the formula includes magic numbers.\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"A tool that you might find useful for experimenting with acceleration is RepRap Centrals Acceleration Calculator (at the bottom).\n\nBy setting an acceleration, length of travel and target speed, you can see:\n\n\nThe theoretical speed that can be achieved during the travel with your set acceleration (yellow line).\nThe distance required to reach your target speed, and for how long it will hold that speed before slowing down (blue line).\n\n\nFor instance, setting acceleration = 3000, length = 30 and speed = 150 means it will travel 4 mm before reaching its desired speed of 150 mm/s, while that same acceleration theoretically could give a speed of 300 mm/s for the given distance: \n\n\n\nCalculating speed, acceleration and jerk:\n\nIn many cases your printer will have some limitation in maximum speed or settings given by your provider that can be used as a starting point. If not, trial and error is the most straightforward way of doing it. \n\nI would separate speed calibration into three task:\n\n\nFirst find the maximum speed your printer can tolerate. One way of doing this is to print an object with long travel distances, and vary the maximum travel speed.\nUsing the calculator above, increase the acceleration for various traveling distances until you get suitably smooth acceleration curves for your desired speed for medium to long traveling distances.\nAdjust your jerk setting to allow for quick speedup on short traveling distances. Jerk speed is the speed that the printer will immediately jump to before taking acceleration into account. With a jerk of 20mm/s, the printer will make an immediate jump from 0 to 20 mm/s, and thereafter speed up to the desired speed by following the acceleration profile.\n\n\nAs a rule of thumb, it might be smart to then set the actual speed, jerk and acceleration approximately 20% below the the maximum found as a safeguard when printing. \n\nAlso, bear in mind that the strength of stepper motors lowers for higher speeds, so that the nozzle will not hold its path very well if obstructed. If this becomes a problem, consider lowering the speed. \n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n214,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Martin Carney,4.626593049438165,6.290224956562944,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.929104701733314,3.3504271193088333,How do I keep my extruder head from getting clogged?,\"Using a thermoplastic MDF printer with a 0.4mm extruder nozzle, I frequently have trouble with the nozzle getting clogged.\n\nI am not sure what's causing the clog, but my guesses are dust and/or burnt filament (from leaving the hot end on without extruding).\n\nWhat can I do to prevent, or at least minimize, the extruder nozzle getting clogged?\n\nBonus question: What other common causes of clogs are there? (ie what should I watch out for besides dust and leaving the hot end on?)\n\",HDE 226868,\"Lubricating the filament is the most common solution I've heard of to stop filament jams and clogs. Lubricating makes for a smoother ride through the print head. While you're at it, make sure that the filament is clean. The best way to stop jams from dust is to get rid of the dust in the first place.\n\nSome people recommend canola oil, which I've heard works reasonably well for both ABS and PLA (though especially for PLA). You can even 3D-print dust filters/lubricators, if you think this could be a serious issue.\n\nI personally try to clean the print head regularly, after every couple prints or even after each print, if I have time. Something sharp, like tweezers, can pick off bits of filament near the tip of the nozzle. I haven't tried other utensils yet, but there are certainly other tools that would work. I've also heard of people regulating temperature with a fan, in order to prevent partially melted bits of filament clogging up the inside of the nozzle, but I don't know if that's effective.\n\nIn some cases, the problem could even be as mundane as a support issue. I once set up a spool of filament, only to have a jam when the support for the spool failed, leaving the line of filament tugging at the nozzle and clogging it. Taking steps to prevent this from happening can be simply and effective. Whatever the cause, preventative measures are always my choice.\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n214,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Martin Carney,4.626593049438165,6.290224956562944,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.929104701733314,3.3504271193088333,How do I keep my extruder head from getting clogged?,\"Using a thermoplastic MDF printer with a 0.4mm extruder nozzle, I frequently have trouble with the nozzle getting clogged.\n\nI am not sure what's causing the clog, but my guesses are dust and/or burnt filament (from leaving the hot end on without extruding).\n\nWhat can I do to prevent, or at least minimize, the extruder nozzle getting clogged?\n\nBonus question: What other common causes of clogs are there? (ie what should I watch out for besides dust and leaving the hot end on?)\n\",David Maulik,\"Different types of hotends and extruders can lead to different problems associated with clogging. Based on my personal experience the leading causes of clogs and jams are the following\n\n\nForeign material in the nozzle (dirt, dust, low quality filament)\nMixing materials in the hotend (running ABS at 220 then switching to PLA without purging the nozzle)\nExcessive retraction or \"\"heat soak\"\" in PLA (PLA expands when heated if your retraction is set to high you can actually push the expanded PLA high enough that it cools down and can no longer flow)\n\n\nTo solve these issues I recommend using one type of filament, preferably decent quality (typically $40 per kg), if you swap materials be sure to completely purge your nozzle of the higher temperature material. Set your retraction as low as you can trying to minimize ooze (try .4 mm for all metal hotend or 2-3 mm for makerbot style). To minimize carbonized plastic in your hotend don't leave your hotend's heater on for extended periods of time. One way to keep dust from accumulating on your filament is to cover your rolls when you aren't using them, I personally use hairnets, you can buy a 12 pack for a couple of dollars and they last for a long time.\n\",3.367452517504837,2.0769199823829045\n216,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Martin Carney,4.146747269907207,5.037962538797777,0.0,5.199501240805782,3.749318730431847,2.748768872127589,My heated glass print bed keeps chipping and cracking. How can I prevent this?,\"My thermoplastic FDM printer has a heated bed and uses glass as the printing surface. Sometimes the glass will chip or break entirely when I'm removing my print. This happens most often when the print has a large area in contact with the glass.\n\nWhat can I do to keep this from happening?\n\",Eric Johnson,\"You can try using a raft with a bottom that is not 100% solid. Something with lines or crossing lines will lessen the contact area with the bed making it easier to remove.\n\nNote: reducing the adhesion to the bed will make prints more likely to fail.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n216,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Martin Carney,4.146747269907207,5.037962538797777,0.0,5.199501240805782,3.749318730431847,2.748768872127589,My heated glass print bed keeps chipping and cracking. How can I prevent this?,\"My thermoplastic FDM printer has a heated bed and uses glass as the printing surface. Sometimes the glass will chip or break entirely when I'm removing my print. This happens most often when the print has a large area in contact with the glass.\n\nWhat can I do to keep this from happening?\n\",Martin Carney,\"Some things I've tried that have helped:\n\nLay down a layer of masking tape. Most people who do this use blue painter's tape. The plastic should stick nicely during printing, yet release reasonably easily when you remove the print from the heated bed.\n\nLay down a later of Kapton tape. The principle is the same as masking tape, but Kapton tape has a smooth surface and is more durable than masking tape. The down side is Kapton tape is far more expensive, and applying it correctly is a LOT more work, since you have to use water and you have to keep bubbles from getting underneath it.\n\nPut some ABS scraps into a bottle of Acetone, and allow the acetone to break down the ABS til you have a slurry. Spread this slurry as evenly as possible across the build plate, and allow the acetone to evaporate away. This leaves a thin film of ABS on the plate, and will release much better than if you print directly onto the build plate. I recommend using clear ABS if you can, since some of it will stick to your print and clear will be the least visible. You'll need to re-apply it regularly, since it will come off with your print where it touches the build plate. WARNING: Use proper ventilation and avoid contact with acetone. That stuff's not good for you. Also it's flammable, so keep a fire extinguisher nearby.\n\nI prefer the ABS/acetone slurry method, but it requires good ventilation and a handy fire extinguisher. Also note that you don't have to print in ABS to use an ABS/acetone slurry; I print primarily in PLA and it makes no difference.\n\nI've also heard of others using a glue stick or some other surface treatments that allow for good adhesion during printing while still allowing for easy removal.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n510,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Martin Carney,3.618048892289167,4.809945623810144,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.548335113978322,3.9829738809469584,How thin can my extrusion be from a 1.2mm extruder?,\"I always assumed that the smallest diameter that you could extrude was equal to the diameter of the extruder tip itself. Recently I heard that you can actually extrude a line that's as little as half the width of the nozzle opening.\n\nIs that true in theory? In practice?\n\nMy printer's 0.3mm nozzle broke recently, and the only replacement on hand was a 1.2mm nozzle. The prints have been fast, but really coarse and imprecise. I've dialed the extrusion diameter down from about 2mm to 1.2mm for some smaller, more intricate parts, and it worked fine. Can I go down to 0.9mm or 0.6mm extrusion diameter without it screwing up my prints?\n\nIf I can't do that, what does happen if I try to print 0.6mm out of a 1.2mm extruder nozzle?\n\nFor this question, let's assume an FDM printer using PLA and/or ABS filament.\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"The main issue with very narrow extrusion widths (less than the nozzle size) is that you get really poor \"\"nozzle squash.\"\" The plastic isn't pressed down very hard as it's extruded. That causes poor layer bonding and weaker prints. \n\nThe flow of molten plastic coming out of the nozzle must be drawn down by tension in order to end up smaller than the nozzle opening, and that drawing effect makes it difficult to get good contact with the previous layer. So you end up with a \"\"stack of logs\"\" structure kind of like this:\n\n\n(This photo actually shows layer height = extrusion width = nozzle size, which is another no-no, but the end result is similar.)\n\nWhat you want instead is something very \"\"mashed together\"\" and strong like this:\n\n\nHow finely the the strand can draw down -- versus smearing or breaking apart into blobs -- will depend greatly on the type of filament and the printing conditions. For example, nylon draws down extremely well because it experiences a large degree of strain crystallization, and actually gets stronger and stiffer as it's stretched. PLA tends to get more brittle when strained and may break into stringy blobs. ABS doesn't change terribly much because it's highly amorphous. Polymer type, blending agents, print speed, printing temperature, and cooling will control the drawing behavior of the filament. \n\nAnother factor to consider is what the strand spacing is within the print. If you set the extrusion width equal to half the nozzle width, depending on the slicer, adjacent strands may be placed with pitch equal or slightly less than half the nozzle width. So after the first strand is printed (say an unimportant inner perimeter) the next strand will be printed with the nozzle partially overlapping the previous strand. This effectively creates a constriction to force the plastic out of a smaller opening to one side of the nozzle, which is not too different from printing with a smaller nozzle. Subsequent perimeter strands may then tend to \"\"heal up\"\" even if the first is low quality. This effect doesn't completely fix the problem, but it helps account for why under-width strands seem to work better than they ought to.\n\nOf course, even if the strands turn out ok, it's arguable whether there is any benefit. If the goal of a smaller extrusion width is more precision and sharper corners, you may not actually accomplish that goal. When the filament is being drawn down by tension in the cooling polymer, it may tend to \"\"cut corners\"\" and get pulled into a rounded arc when the nozzle changes direction. That may defeat the point of using a thinner extrusion width in the first place. Generally I only recommend using under-width strands to capture thin-wall detail that is only a little bit too thin for the nozzle, not as a way to improve overall print quality.\n\nIn comparison, having the extrusion width equal or wider than the nozzle ensures the plastic is firmly squished downward into intimate contact with the lower layer. You can fudge this a bit and still get decent results, but it's usually best to keep the extrusion width equal or larger than the nozzle size. There's no hard cutoff where it will / won't work.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n686,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Martin Carney,3.767809650974757,6.041424303207466,3.507933925167123,3.1880595895805834,4.240216107868139,4.099094618364796,How can I improve the overhang angles my printer can successfully print?,\"Using an FDM printer and PLA or ABS, without adding support material. What modifications can I make to improve how steep an overhang my printer can print before it starts having problems?\n\nThe obvious first answer is to add a cooling fan, increasing the airflow over the freshly-extruded material ensuring it solidifies. What other things can improve it?\n\nDoes lowing the temperature help? Raising it?\n\nDoes speeding up or slowing down the print head help?\n\nDoes increasing/decreasing the extrusion diameter, or layer height help?\n\",tbm0115,\"There's an answer here that holds some of the same concepts. Regarding your questions: \n\n\nDoes lowering the temperature help? Raising it? : Yes, lowering the temperature can help. I've found that it is best to stay closer to the lower end of the material's melting point and just a bit above the point. Not only does this help with potential over extrusion, but also shortens the time it takes for the material to cool (refer to the link above). However, this could cause clogging if your temperature is too low. Keep an eye on your drive gear to see if there is too much friction while at lower temperatures. Increasing may keep the drive gear from \"\"eating\"\" your filament.\nDoes speeding up or slowing down the print head help? : I prefer to print slower, most of the time, to allow the material to cool a bit more to avoid curling/warping (I primarily print with ABS, so it matters more). You might be able to give and take between temperature and speed. Consider if your nozzle is cooler and your speed is up, bridging gaps might yield the same results as if you proportionately swap these two values. This concept may only matter if you are in a pinch to get the part done. Again, I prefer slowing my machine down as it allows current/previous layers to cool more before continuing. This can be especially helpful with overhangs when paired with lowering your nozzle temperature.\nDoes increasing/decreasing the extrusion diameter, or layer height help - I assume that extrusion diameter equals layer height (not difference in nozzle diameter, aka swapping nozzles). I'm not completely sure, but I think this depends on the part as well as slicing engine settings. For me, MakerWare is pretty good about proportionately adjusting extrusion steps with layer height, so I see an equal change in the width of the extrusion. I would think that in general, a larger layer height would yield a larger extrusion width. This would be helpful when printing overhangs, but may not be helpful when printing bridges (a larger strand will retain heat longer than a smaller one).\n\n\nHopefully this helps, please comment if you need more information/clarification.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n686,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Martin Carney,3.767809650974757,6.041424303207466,3.507933925167123,3.1880595895805834,4.240216107868139,4.099094618364796,How can I improve the overhang angles my printer can successfully print?,\"Using an FDM printer and PLA or ABS, without adding support material. What modifications can I make to improve how steep an overhang my printer can print before it starts having problems?\n\nThe obvious first answer is to add a cooling fan, increasing the airflow over the freshly-extruded material ensuring it solidifies. What other things can improve it?\n\nDoes lowing the temperature help? Raising it?\n\nDoes speeding up or slowing down the print head help?\n\nDoes increasing/decreasing the extrusion diameter, or layer height help?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"The two most important things you can do are:\n\n\nProvide adequate cooling to solidify the plastic quickly\nMinimize layer height\n\n\nCooling is really obvious. You need the plastic to solidify before it has a chance to sag. PLA in particular has to shed a lot of heat before it is fully solid. A fan and air guide setup using a \"\"squirrel-cage\"\" radial blower around the nozzle is optimal. A little 30mm or 40mm axial fan will not provide optimal performance. \n\nLow layer height when slicing is less obvious, but is extremely effective. When you use thinner layers, two things happen:\n\n\nThere is less melted plastic per pass and a higher surface area to volume ratio, so the fresh material cools faster. \nA larger percentage of each strand in the overhang is supported by the previous strand. If you do 0.2mm thick by 0.4mm wide, half of each strand is unsupported. But if you do 0.1mm thick by 0.4mm wide, only a quarter of each strand is unsupported. \n\n\nWhen you combine these two effects, it is possible to exceed 70 degree overhangs with good surface quality. \n\nAnother lesser factor is printing shells/perimeters inside-out rather than outside-in. This helps anchor the outermost strand a little better as the overhang is built. This is pretty minor though. \n\",3.6340916038470805,2.0769199823829045\n754,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Martin Carney,3.9045305118418514,5.101052901355333,0.0,2.011441651225199,4.091740895605862,4.592941926651472,Slic3r - Can I add new infill patterns?,\"Slic3r comes with a handful of infill patterns/algorithms, including Rectilinear, Hexagon, 3D Hexagon, Concentric, and Hilbert Curve.\n\nAre there any patterns/algorithms already made and available that I can add to Slic3r? If so, how can I add them in?\n\",Kevin Morse,\"Although the core of Slic3r is written in C++ a lot of other components such as infill generation are written in Perl. Since Slic3r is open source there is nothing stopping you from writing your own infill module in Perl and recompiling your own version of Slic3r.\n\nIf your considering doing this you can find the existing infill code in the Github repository at\n\nhttps://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/tree/master/lib/Slic3r/Fill\n\nInstructions on how to run from source can be found at\n\nhttp://slic3r.org/download\n\nHere is a commit where a new infill pattern is added. This should show you all the parts of the codebase that must be modified to add a new infill model (some trivial C++ modifications appear to be necessary in addition to the Perl code)\n\nhttps://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/commit/2811af349ae17230a525ddcf819b1ddffaa250c9\n\",3.5068404193471867,0.0\n813,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Martin Carney,3.267423727073639,5.4292243472196,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Convert G-code to SVG,\"This question is a bit of an edge case for what 3D Printing SE covers, but it has to do with topics most closely related to 3D printing.\n\n\n\nI've found a plethora of ways to convert SVG (vector graphics) into G-code, but I can't seem to find any way to take a series of G-code movements and convert them into lines as a vector graphic.\n\nWhy would I want to do this, you ask?\n\nI have a Silhouette, which can cut paper, or draw on paper, depending on if you insert a knife tool or a pen tool.\n\nI have a polar draw bot (Makelangelo) which doesn't want to behave... the motors keep losing steps when the number of steps/second is low, and thus positioning gets off.\n\nI want to use the drawing algorithms in the Makelangelo software to create drawings using my Silhouette, but the Silhouette wants vector graphics, not G-code.\n\nThe simplest way in my mind to do this is to convert G-code generated in the Makelangelo software, convert it to a standard vector format (SVG), and import it into Silhouette's software suite.\n\nAlternately, if there's a way to send G-code directly to my Silhouette and have it work, that'd be a much better solution.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"There are a number of programs available which will convert g-code to DXF, a common drawing format. If your device does not support DXF directly, there are a number of programs to convert DXF to SVG. I would paste links but a quick search with your favorite search engine should give you useful results. The better conversion programs will allow you to eliminate movement g-code entries, which prevents connections between lines. I did not paste links, as my research shows such variety as to be overwhelming. \n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n239,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Citizen,2.528907649931287,4.063518463711386,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.320478682445624,3.1761792699540483,Bulging filaments - How can catch them before they go in the printer,\"After multiple jams from bulging filaments on two spools I'm getting frustrated. One, right before a job was done.\n\nIs there something I can do to prevent these bulges in filaments from ruining jobs?\n\nWhat can I do to prevent this from happening in the future before it's a disaster?\n\nHe's a picture of one I found using google.\n\n\n\",TextGeek,\"There is a filament width sensor design at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:454584 -- cleverly, the author tweaked Marlin so it adjusts extrusion in real time to correct for variations.\n\nThat said, I agree with several others that buying filament with better quality control, and keeping it dry and unchewed by Labradors, should be enough. :)\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n239,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Citizen,2.528907649931287,4.063518463711386,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.320478682445624,3.1761792699540483,Bulging filaments - How can catch them before they go in the printer,\"After multiple jams from bulging filaments on two spools I'm getting frustrated. One, right before a job was done.\n\nIs there something I can do to prevent these bulges in filaments from ruining jobs?\n\nWhat can I do to prevent this from happening in the future before it's a disaster?\n\nHe's a picture of one I found using google.\n\n\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"That's my picture :-)\n\nI use a filament monitor with an encoder wheel that pauses the print if the filament stops moving (because a bulge got stuck, or filament ran out, or the hot end jammed, or whatever). I have a bunch of these on multiple printers: http://www.toybuilderlabs.com/products/tunell-3d-printer-filament-monitor\n\nThe Tunell monitor works with Sailfish, Marlin, and Smoothie to my knowledge. This particular one doesn't work with Repetier, but you can wire up a simple encoder wheel to use Repetier's filament monitor functionality.\n\nLike other people have mentioned, you should avoid cheap filament, and return spools with bulges. I personally only see bulges like that maybe every 20 spools or less. \n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n258,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ZachNag,3.267423727073639,4.329476789776803,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.8086301675739853,How to minimize damage when removing an ABS print from a heated glass print bed?,\"Usually it will either will rip the tape, or break the print somehow. Currently using ABS on a taped glass bed with a layer of hairspray for adhesion.\n\",Adam Davis,\"I moved to a plain glass heated bed with a brush applied acetone and ABS mixture. Using an old emptied nail polish bottle with brush, I added some acetone and then threw in ABS pieces until it reached a brush-able consistency. I then brush it on the glass build plate where I believe the print will occur, and it works very well. On removal of the part the coating comes with it.\n\nI just found previously that ABS would adhere to my kapton taped heated bed too strongly to use, and so while this involves a little work before each print, it's overall better than kapton for me.\n\nI did experiment with sheet metal beds coated with kapton, but they curl during printing due to the ABS thermal stress, allowing my parts to be concave on the bottom side. Easy to remove from the plate, though, since it flexed. There may be a good middle ground material but I didn't experiment further.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n258,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ZachNag,3.267423727073639,4.329476789776803,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.8086301675739853,How to minimize damage when removing an ABS print from a heated glass print bed?,\"Usually it will either will rip the tape, or break the print somehow. Currently using ABS on a taped glass bed with a layer of hairspray for adhesion.\n\",Jackpen7,\"I have had best results with ABS on a heated printbed \n(untaped) with a thin coat of UHU Stic. It can be a little tricky to remove but minimizes damage.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n271,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jeff,3.9045305118418514,4.135444271999372,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,4.240216107868139,3.206343760378365,Troubleshooting poor adhesion at the edge of the bed,\"I've been printing for a week now on my new printer and have been getting great results, including great adhesion. However, most of my prints have had a fairly small footprint.\n\nNow, I'm stepping up the types of items I'm printing, and I've started to run into a problem. Long, thin parts are starting to lift off the bed, especially at the edges of the bed.\n\nI've read the question dealing with this issue with ABS and realize some (most) could apply to me. However, I'm printing entirely in PLA on a non-heated bed.\n\nMy question is: What is the best way to go about troubleshooting this problem? In which order should I attempt fixes to narrow down the problem most quickly?\n\nPrinter: Monoprice Maker Architect 3D (Very similar to Makerbot)\n\nMaterial: PLA\n\nHeated Bed: No\n\nBed Material: Something similar to BuildTak on top of an acrylic bed. (The sheet of material came unlabeled with the printer and I haven't been able to track down exactly what it is.)\n\",tjb1,\"There are several things you could try without spending much but even PLA will warp on an unheated bed. I had a Legacy Kossel that I switched to an acrylic bed and had many issues with warping and prints pulling off the bed. \n\nSome cheap things to try would be...\n\n\nAdding a brim to the print.\nBlue painters tape on the acrylic, remove the other material if doing this.\nPlace cheap piece of glass/mirror on bed and use hairspray/gluestick.\nUse hairspray/gluestick directly on acrylic. You must be careful here because first layer height is very critical to prevent damage to the acrylic from the plastic welding. A layer of hairspray or glue should prevent it but dial in your height before printing.\nIf you aren't currently using a fan, you could try sealing the sides to prevent drafts. I doubt this would change much since you are using PLA but it's an option.\nIf these are your designs, there are steps you can take to reduce warping as seen here.\n\n\nAlso many other suggestions here.\n\",3.6340916038470805,2.0769199823829045\n271,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jeff,3.9045305118418514,4.135444271999372,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,4.240216107868139,3.206343760378365,Troubleshooting poor adhesion at the edge of the bed,\"I've been printing for a week now on my new printer and have been getting great results, including great adhesion. However, most of my prints have had a fairly small footprint.\n\nNow, I'm stepping up the types of items I'm printing, and I've started to run into a problem. Long, thin parts are starting to lift off the bed, especially at the edges of the bed.\n\nI've read the question dealing with this issue with ABS and realize some (most) could apply to me. However, I'm printing entirely in PLA on a non-heated bed.\n\nMy question is: What is the best way to go about troubleshooting this problem? In which order should I attempt fixes to narrow down the problem most quickly?\n\nPrinter: Monoprice Maker Architect 3D (Very similar to Makerbot)\n\nMaterial: PLA\n\nHeated Bed: No\n\nBed Material: Something similar to BuildTak on top of an acrylic bed. (The sheet of material came unlabeled with the printer and I haven't been able to track down exactly what it is.)\n\",markm46,\"Try a dilute solution of PVA glue (approx. 5:1 water:PVA) applied to the bed or the BuildTak like sheet and allowed to dry. \nKeep the ambient temperature as high as possible (but not so high as to soften any plastic on the printer obviously). \nBig brims help - consider adding them to the model rather than just applying them in the slicer. I've used 12 mm by 0.5 mm deep circles to good effect, particularly on acutely angled parts of the model or the extremities.\n\",0.0,0.0\n279,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,the third dimension,3.267423727073639,3.235319671822568,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Is packing multiple prints into the build volume a feasible workflow for powderbed printers?,\"With fdm printers, the 3D object that should be printed can be positioned anywhere in the build volume. But it's only practical to place it on the bottom, because otherwise support material would be necessary.\n\nstereolithography has the same problem. Even though the photopolymer can be cured at any position in the build volume, the result would drift away if it was not held in place by support material.\n\nThe powderbed based printers (either powder+binder or any of the laser/electron beam sintering/melting variants) do not have this problem, because they continuously fill the entire build volume with powder. The support material that other printing technologies require is part of the powder based printing anyway. It would be possible to pack the build volume with many prints and print them in one go.\n\nGiven that the machines are relatively expensive, it would be economical to increase the throughput. A company that does use such printers heavily could wait a certain amount of time until a few print queued up that fit together in the build volume and only then start the process. Do people do this?\n\",tbm0115,\"Yes, this is very popular. Look into the site Shapeways and you will see that this is exactly what they do. I've also personally seen a local 3D print shop do this with their machine. It's called batching. I similar technique can be used in traditional machine shops (mills/lathes).\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n279,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,the third dimension,3.267423727073639,3.235319671822568,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Is packing multiple prints into the build volume a feasible workflow for powderbed printers?,\"With fdm printers, the 3D object that should be printed can be positioned anywhere in the build volume. But it's only practical to place it on the bottom, because otherwise support material would be necessary.\n\nstereolithography has the same problem. Even though the photopolymer can be cured at any position in the build volume, the result would drift away if it was not held in place by support material.\n\nThe powderbed based printers (either powder+binder or any of the laser/electron beam sintering/melting variants) do not have this problem, because they continuously fill the entire build volume with powder. The support material that other printing technologies require is part of the powder based printing anyway. It would be possible to pack the build volume with many prints and print them in one go.\n\nGiven that the machines are relatively expensive, it would be economical to increase the throughput. A company that does use such printers heavily could wait a certain amount of time until a few print queued up that fit together in the build volume and only then start the process. Do people do this?\n\",Mark,\"The print speed for powderbed printing depends primarily on the height of the print; the lateral extent doesn't really matter. Since powderbed printing provides its own easily-removed support structure, a packing that maximizes the number of items and minimizes the height will maximize throughput.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n344,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,the third dimension,3.267423727073639,5.5650397807246454,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.265283966335819,How can I set the position in Pronterface?,\"I'm in the process of building a 3D printer and have all the stepper motors wired up and the controller connected to the computer running pronterface.\n\nI can move each axis and also send g-code to the printer.\n\nNow how can I define the current position to be the 0/0/0 position?\nI'd like to move the printer into a position where I think should be the zero position and define it as such in pronterface somehow.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"\n G92 X0 Y0 Z0\n\n\ntells the printer that the current position is (0,0,0).\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n344,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,the third dimension,3.267423727073639,5.5650397807246454,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.265283966335819,How can I set the position in Pronterface?,\"I'm in the process of building a 3D printer and have all the stepper motors wired up and the controller connected to the computer running pronterface.\n\nI can move each axis and also send g-code to the printer.\n\nNow how can I define the current position to be the 0/0/0 position?\nI'd like to move the printer into a position where I think should be the zero position and define it as such in pronterface somehow.\n\",TextGeek,\"There's a handy list of G0-codes at http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code -- though the list is too big to be convenient for finding a code if you're not already sure what it's called... :(\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n284,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dlu,2.8153892694839717,4.083098880456266,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Applying Kapton Tape To Bed Plate,\"There must be a trick to doing a good job of applying Kapton tape on a printer bed plate…\n\nWe built a Bukobot and even with a great deal of care ended up with bubbles under the tape and occasional overlaps. I'd appreciate any pointers.\n\",tbm0115,\"I like to heat my build plate up a bit before I begin. Just warm to touch. I feel that this will help prevent bubbling so soon. I would think that since the build plate is expanded with the heat, that when the tape is applied it will shrink with the build plate. I was also told that the heat would help the adhesive stick better.\n\nThe other thing I do when applying kapton tape is apply one end of the tape to a ruler, place the ruler on the far side of the build plate, and slowly begin working the tape evenly across the plate. I find it much easier to apply tape this way.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n284,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dlu,2.8153892694839717,4.083098880456266,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Applying Kapton Tape To Bed Plate,\"There must be a trick to doing a good job of applying Kapton tape on a printer bed plate…\n\nWe built a Bukobot and even with a great deal of care ended up with bubbles under the tape and occasional overlaps. I'd appreciate any pointers.\n\",tjb1,\"Try using a solution made for applying window tint, maybe even soapy water. Squeegee it out, heat the bed for a bit and you should be good to go.\n\nThis video demonstrates the process.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3234,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dlu,3.618048892289167,6.308942268799443,0.0,5.646830619998737,3.0574377365420307,2.488653845767225,Troubleshooting filament slip on MakerBot 5,\"I run a high school 3D printer lab and we have several 5th generation MakerBot printers. On one of them I have considerable trouble with \"\"thin\"\" prints and filament slip warnings.\n\nSo far I've tried changing extruders and using different filament rolls with no luck. But, if I move the job and the extruder to a different printer it works.\n\nI'd appreciate suggestions for how to sort this out. I would have expected the slipping problems to follow the extruder.\n\",CARIS,\"We had a similar issue with our Makerbot printer here in the CARIS lab. \nWe would have slip, after slip and tried oiling, hand feeding, and roughing up the filament none of it worked. But we found an answer!!!\n\nWith the smart extruder, it's as simple as inserting a flathead screwdriver between the filament wheel and the housing, and prying the wheel towards the pin-side of the print head. Solved all our problems! Seriously, not a slip since and perfect prints.\n\nI've a short solution video for YouTube, Fixing filament slip on your 3D printer.\n\nCheck out the makerbot trouble shooting page for reference: MakerBot Support > Troubleshooting > MakerBot Replicator > Error Codes\nERROR 81\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3234,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dlu,3.618048892289167,6.308942268799443,0.0,5.646830619998737,3.0574377365420307,2.488653845767225,Troubleshooting filament slip on MakerBot 5,\"I run a high school 3D printer lab and we have several 5th generation MakerBot printers. On one of them I have considerable trouble with \"\"thin\"\" prints and filament slip warnings.\n\nSo far I've tried changing extruders and using different filament rolls with no luck. But, if I move the job and the extruder to a different printer it works.\n\nI'd appreciate suggestions for how to sort this out. I would have expected the slipping problems to follow the extruder.\n\",Steven Downs,\"I had the same issue, but my solution was a little different. Following along with what the others posted about the wheel, I had a jam inside the extruder around that wheel. I missed it the first time I tore it open so no matter how many times I tried the screwdriver trick it didn't work for me. \n\nI figured I'd post so if anyone is coming along trying to find the solution, they can see that it might be a jam on the filament wheel and not just to check the nozzle area. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n313,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nir,3.767809650974757,5.937597424594037,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.548335113978322,3.9829738809469584,Holes/ missing layers (after retraction) in 3d printed objects,\"My printed objects have horizontal holes in them (as seen I the picture below):\n\n\nThis doesn't only look bad it also makes the object break at the seems.\n\nLooking carefully at the printing process I can see that after a retraction there's a small amount of time the hotend isn't extruding plastic.\n\nMaterial: PLA, Printer Robo 3D R1+, Slicer: Cura\n\",Nir,\"(answering my own question)\n\nThe problem was the extrusion distance settings in Cura's advanced tab, reducing the value to 1.5mm solved the problem.\n\nOther problems with the same symptoms:\n\n\nPartially blocked hotend nozzle.\nIncorrectly configured steps per mm for the extruder motor - this youtube video shows how to test and configure this. \n\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n343,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nir,2.528907649931287,4.206411811216963,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Cura with Pronterface UI stops printing,\"When I use Cura with the Pronterface UI it sometime just stops printing.\n\nWhen it stops the printer just stops, the UI looks like it's still printing but nothing is moving in the printer, also, trying to control the printer from the UI does nothing.\n\nIt always stops early in the printing process, usually during the auto-leveling process or while printing the skirt, the latest it happened was during the first solid layer of a raft.\n\nUsually closing the printing window and re-opening it solves the problem but not always, this never happened to me with the basic UI, I couldn't find any settings that makes the problem better or worse, it just happens randomly.\n\nAnyone knows how to stop that from happening?\n\nMy printer is a Robo 3D R1+\n\nUpdate\n\nAfter installing a screen on my printer I discovered Pronterface is sending a \"\"Wait for user\"\" G Code to the printer.\n\nBecause this changes the question too much and invalidates the existing answer I've asked a new question at What makes Pronterface wait for user?\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"A problem I have come across when using Pronterface is that the operating system starves the resources of the program if the program's window is not in the front.\n\nIf I, for instance, started a print, then started browsing the web, it would sometimes suddenly stop. When bringing Pronterface back to the front, it would take a few seconds, and then continue (if I remember correctly).\n\nOn OS X - which I am using - I believe this is called app nap, while a similar mechanism exist for Windows. I ended up printing form an SD card myself after this, but you might want to try manually setting the resource priority for Pronterface in your OS.\n\nIn Windows, you could trying to increase the resource allocation for Pronterface by going to Task Manager -> Details -> Right click the Pronterface process -> Set Priority. I would be careful to set it too high, since you are basically allowing the program more juice to potentially do something wrong.\n\nIn OS X you could try to disable app nap for Pronterface.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n343,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nir,2.528907649931287,4.206411811216963,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Cura with Pronterface UI stops printing,\"When I use Cura with the Pronterface UI it sometime just stops printing.\n\nWhen it stops the printer just stops, the UI looks like it's still printing but nothing is moving in the printer, also, trying to control the printer from the UI does nothing.\n\nIt always stops early in the printing process, usually during the auto-leveling process or while printing the skirt, the latest it happened was during the first solid layer of a raft.\n\nUsually closing the printing window and re-opening it solves the problem but not always, this never happened to me with the basic UI, I couldn't find any settings that makes the problem better or worse, it just happens randomly.\n\nAnyone knows how to stop that from happening?\n\nMy printer is a Robo 3D R1+\n\nUpdate\n\nAfter installing a screen on my printer I discovered Pronterface is sending a \"\"Wait for user\"\" G Code to the printer.\n\nBecause this changes the question too much and invalidates the existing answer I've asked a new question at What makes Pronterface wait for user?\n\",Nir,\"After installing a screen on my printer I discovered Pronterface is sending a \"\"Wait for user\"\" G Code to the printer.\n\nBecause this changes the question too much and invalidates the existing answer I've asked a new question at What makes Pronterface wait for user?\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n423,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nir,4.356564969431519,5.788522842383932,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,3.8163118060828776,Does wood filament damage the printer nozzle?,\"I recently found out carbon fiber and glow in the dark PLA can damage the printer nozzle, now I'm suspicious of all the \"\"exotic\"\" filaments.\n\nSo, does wood filament cause damage to the nozzle? (under normal use, or at least what someone who only used PLA/ABS before would consider normal use)\n\nLet's assume a normal quality brass nozzle - not some cheap stuff that didn't even came in the correct size to begin with and not some premium reinforeced nozzle - and reasonable quality filament.\n\",tbm0115,\"If you haven't been to their site before, you should check out the forums on 3DHubs. There's a lot of how-to's. A quick Google search yields this link to a similar question.\n\nThe key thing to note is that in all technicalities, any material you run through the nozzle is going to cause some sort of wear on your nozzle. How quickly depends on the material or composition.\n\nThe answer to the question linked above relates it spot on to sandpaper. If you have sandpaper made out of metal (ie stainless pla), it will scratch your skin fairly easily. If you have sandpaper made out of tree bark (ie laywood pla), it probably won't scratch your skin as bad, but it'll still scratch. And just for poops and giggles, lets say you have sandpaper made out of pla; it'll take a while, but you could eventually make your skin raw if you rub the plastic against your arm long enough.\n\nIt is typically recommended to use one nozzle for each material type as to avoid cross-contamination of materials in your printing. With this idea in mind, if you are using many types of materials, you can also minimize failed prints due to clogging and other \"\"damaged nozzle\"\" type troubles.\n\",3.0411126502294303,0.0\n423,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nir,4.356564969431519,5.788522842383932,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,3.8163118060828776,Does wood filament damage the printer nozzle?,\"I recently found out carbon fiber and glow in the dark PLA can damage the printer nozzle, now I'm suspicious of all the \"\"exotic\"\" filaments.\n\nSo, does wood filament cause damage to the nozzle? (under normal use, or at least what someone who only used PLA/ABS before would consider normal use)\n\nLet's assume a normal quality brass nozzle - not some cheap stuff that didn't even came in the correct size to begin with and not some premium reinforeced nozzle - and reasonable quality filament.\n\",Alex,\"Wood filament has the same effect on the nozzle as PLA, so, no, it shouldn't. It's just some wood shavings mixed with PLA, after all. \n\nMaterials like Carbon Fiber and Stainless Steel are abrasive and will wear down a brass nozzle. You would want a hardened steel nozzle in that case. \n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n454,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nir,4.030301511886631,6.513738658319738,2.7799718631987322,2.011441651225199,3.929104701733314,4.410384278773418,How to configure Cura to run the Z probe before heating,\"I'm using Cura as my slicing/printing software and I just started using the BuildTak printing surface.\n\nThe BuildTak is damaged by pushing a hot nozzle into it and my printer's (Robo3D R1+) autoleveling feature works by pushing the nozzle into the build surface.\n\nIs there a way to configure Cura so that it runs the Z probe first, then heat up the nozzle?\n\nMy first sheet of BuildTak already has 10 small holes in it (at the homing position and at the 9 leveling touch points)\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"In Cura (and Slic3r), you can 100% customize what the printer does before printing your actual model through custom start/end g-code.\n\nIf you navigate to the Start/End-GCode tab in Cura, then select start.gcode, you can see what operations are run before each print begins. Lines prefixed with ; are comments, and does not affect the printing in any way. \n\nBasically, we want to manually tell the printer to do the auto leveling before heating up the nozzle by editing the g-code in start.gcode.\n\nG-Code generated with the default start.gcode:\n\nIf you try to slice some model with the default code found in start.gcode, you will get something like the following (depending on your printer):\n\n; CURA AUTOMATICALLY INSERTS THESE TEMPERATURE CODES\n\nM190 S70.000000 ; Set bed temperature to 70 degrees\nM109 S210.000000 ; Set nozzle temperature to 210 degrees\n\n\n; THESE ARE THE CODES FROM START.GCODE (for a ROBO 3D R1) \n\nG28 ;move printer to endstops (the home position)\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded filament length\nM565 Z-1 ;set z-probe offset\nG1 Z5 F5000 ;move the printer 5mm above the bed\nG29 ;run auto-leveling\n\n\n; THE ACTUAL MODEL BEGINS HERE\n\n;Layer count: 168\n;LAYER:0\n.\n.\n\n\nAnalyzing the g-code output\n\nAt the top of this code snippet, we can see that Cura automatically inserts g-code for heating up the bed and nozzle to their respective temperatures with the M190 and M109 g-codes. This means the printer always will heat up the nozzle before reading the start.gcodes that we set. However, if we manually override M109 code in start.gcode, the M109 at the top will automagically disappear from the generated g-code output! (Thanks, @TomvanderZanden!)\n\nWe could therefore use the auto-leveling command G29 before manually setting the nozzle temperature with M109; specifically, we want to add M109 S{print_temperature}, which reads the Basic -> Print Temperature-setting in Cura, and replace {print_temperature} with it automatically.\n\nManipulating start.gcode:\n\nIn order to postpone heating the hotend till after probing, start.gcode could be something like: \n\nG28 ;move printer to endstops (the home position)\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded filament length\nM565 Z-1 ;set z-probe offset <----- ( YOU HAVE TO ADJUST THIS, READ BELOW)\nG1 Z5 F5000 ;move the printer 5mm above the bed\nG29 ;run auto-leveling\nM109 S{print_temperature} ;set nozzle temperature, and wait for it heat up\n\n\nAnd that's about it! You can then use these codes in your start.gcode. However, you probably will have to recalibrate your z-prove offset. \n\nAdjust z-probe offset:\n\nNormally, auto-leveling is done with the nozzle heated for a reason: when the nozzle is warm, it expands slightly, moving closer to the bed. You might therefore have to adjust your Z-probe offset with the M565 command (as demonstrated in the snippet) to account for the increase in nozzle length when warm.\n\nRemember:\n\nRemember that when editing g-code in this manner, you will take full control of how the printer operates. You could therefore very well do something unintended, so keep the power switch close! \n\",3.367452517504837,2.0769199823829045\n518,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nir,2.528907649931287,4.8910928210064695,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,What makes Pronterface wait for user?,\"I'm using Cura with the Pronterface UI to slice/print and sometimes printing just stops - always in the first layer - when it happens the printing screen shows \"\"Waiting for user\"\", when I press the button on the printer printing resumes.\n\nI don't know when this happens, it just happens about once every 5-10 prints, when this happens if I close the printing window and immediately click \"\"print to usb\"\" to reopen it the problem doesn't repeat.\n\nThis only happens with the Pronterface UI, it doesn't happen with Cura basic UI or when printing using an SD card.\n\nNot using Pronterface isn't a good option because when I'm fine-tuning a model it much more convenient to send a test print from the computer and not copy the gcode to an SD card and print from the printer.\n\nMy printer is Robo3D R1+\n\",Josip Ivic,\"That's the temperature problem that you've encountered.\n\nThe temperature of bed and hotend is reported every few seconds. Per default, first that sets is the bed temperature, then you need to wait for the bed to reach it, then warm up the hotend, and then start printing.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n519,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nir,4.255155677057378,5.322949259154431,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,How to improve face that are printed on support?,\"Is there anything I can do to improve the bottom side of surfaces that are printed on support?\n\nI always try to rotate the model so that surfaces that need to look nice are on the sides or top, and, if possible I divide the model into smaller parts to minimize the amount of support.\n\nBut sometimes there is an object that has an irregular shape that need support no matter how I rotate it and can't be broken down into smaller objects with no support.\n\nAnd then, after removing the support I get a very ugly ridged face that takes forever to sand.\n\nTo clarify, I'm not asking about making supports easier to remove, I don't have a problem with this, I'm talking about making the surface that touched the support better looking after removing the support.\n\nIs there anything I can do to improve the look of the face that is printed on supports?\n\nI'm using Cura to do the slicing and printing, I'm using the \"\"lines\"\" support type, my printer is the Robo3D R1+\n\",tbm0115,\"The basic answer to your question is to create better bridging or overhangs on your machine. Bridging is when you are printing between two solid pieces (like a bridge). Overhangs occur when printing off of a single solid piece and coming back. Most slicing engines allow extra settings for speed, fan power, etc for these parameters, just refer to this terminology.\n\nA very common and simple solution in getting features to 3D print properly is to just slow down! If you're not a in a rush to get the part done, you bring down all of the feedrates in your slicing engine. MakerWare has mine at 90/150 mm/s for print and rapid. Typically I'll bring that down to about 50/90. My reasoning is the more time you give the plastic to cool, both while and after printing the layer, the more rigid that layer will be for the next one. When briding or overhanging, there will typically be a sagged area in the print. You can minimize this by providing the plastic more time to cool. Also keep in mind that printing on supports is still technically bridging (printing between two solid pieces).\n\nAnother thing to keep in mind is adhesion from one layer to the next matter just as much between the current layer and the previous as the current strand to the one next to it. So, in some cases, increasing your shell could possibly make it easier for the infill/roof/floor strands.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n522,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nir,4.78385405467542,6.964250292902216,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,5.1118830730594205,4.812084148886198,Is there a G-code for waiting?,\"My printer has an auto-leveling feature that works by touching the build plate with the tip of the nozzle.\n\nI started using a BuildTak surface and BuildTak is damaged when you push a hot nozzle into it.\n\nSo I edited the start G-code to run the auto-leveling before heating up the hotend\n\nBut ABS doesn't stick to the build surface unless I pre-heat the hotend and wait about a minute.\n\nSo now I'm looking for a G-code command to put at the end of the start G-code that will make the printer wait a minute before printing\n\nThe sequence I'm looking for is:\n\n\nHeat up the bed\nAuto level\nRaise the hotend a little bit so it doesn't touch the build plate\nHeat up the hotend\nWait a minute (that's the only part that is missing, everything else works)\nStart printing\n\n\nAny way to insert a delay into the G-code?\n\nI'm using Cura to slice/print, my printer is Robo3D R1+\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"An alternative solution to using a hard delay with the G4 dwell command, is to increase the time that the temperature set with M109 has to be held before it continues with the next command.\n\nIn Marlin, this setting is named TEMP_RESIDENCY_TIME, and can be found around line 150 in Configuration.h. By default, this is set to 5 seconds, which looks like:\n\n// Actual temperature must be close to target for this long before M109 returns success\n#define TEMP_RESIDENCY_TIME 5 // (seconds)\n\n\nIf increasing this setting solves your exact problem, I cannot say, but it could be worth looking into.\n\",3.9604314711224866,0.0\n522,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nir,4.78385405467542,6.964250292902216,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,5.1118830730594205,4.812084148886198,Is there a G-code for waiting?,\"My printer has an auto-leveling feature that works by touching the build plate with the tip of the nozzle.\n\nI started using a BuildTak surface and BuildTak is damaged when you push a hot nozzle into it.\n\nSo I edited the start G-code to run the auto-leveling before heating up the hotend\n\nBut ABS doesn't stick to the build surface unless I pre-heat the hotend and wait about a minute.\n\nSo now I'm looking for a G-code command to put at the end of the start G-code that will make the printer wait a minute before printing\n\nThe sequence I'm looking for is:\n\n\nHeat up the bed\nAuto level\nRaise the hotend a little bit so it doesn't touch the build plate\nHeat up the hotend\nWait a minute (that's the only part that is missing, everything else works)\nStart printing\n\n\nAny way to insert a delay into the G-code?\n\nI'm using Cura to slice/print, my printer is Robo3D R1+\n\",Lars Pötter,\"The G-code to delay is G4.\n\nG4 P60000 will wait for one minute. The P is in milliseconds. Some firmware also accept a S Parameter that has the seconds. So, if supported, G4 S60 would do the same thing.\n\nThe details for this and all other G-codes are documented\nhere.\n\",4.38115673424798,2.0769199823829045\n642,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nir,4.255155677057378,5.8054467119533255,0.0,5.199501240805782,4.503257053771732,3.494751849993807,How to remove white marks from PLA,\"When you cut or break a PLA model (for example to remove support) it often leaves an ugly while mark where the removed piece was connected.\n\nSanding also tend to leave dull white scratches on the sanded surface.\n\nWhat can I do to restore the white areas to the original filament color?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"A quick blast from a heat gun will very slightly reflow the surface texture and eliminate white marks. \n\nHowever, it's important to avoid over-heating the perimeter layers or you'll see them soften and sag into the infill. So wait for the heat gun to get fully hot and then use a short duration of high heat. Let the part cool between attempts if you don't get it all the first time, or need to clean up a large area. \n\nIncidentally, the heat gun will also help clean up strings from travel moves.\n\",3.859531739127555,0.0\n642,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nir,4.255155677057378,5.8054467119533255,0.0,5.199501240805782,4.503257053771732,3.494751849993807,How to remove white marks from PLA,\"When you cut or break a PLA model (for example to remove support) it often leaves an ugly while mark where the removed piece was connected.\n\nSanding also tend to leave dull white scratches on the sanded surface.\n\nWhat can I do to restore the white areas to the original filament color?\n\",ArkTekniK,\"As suggested by Ryan Carlyle you will need to use heat to reflow the plastic. However I recommend against using a heat gun as generally you want a very concentrated small area to be heated.\n\nI have had great success in using a soldering iron with the tip placed close to (but obviously not touching) the problem area. Keeping within about 3-5mm has very good results, is easier to control and position. This limits the impact to the surrounding areas and can let you get into small crevices etc.\n\nJust be careful not to touch the part.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n1207,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nir,2.8153892694839717,5.512337139472019,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,How to remove a PLA print stuck to a BuildTak sheet,\"BuildTak is great because the printed plastic really sticks to it, it pretty much solved all the problems I had with prints detaching from the buildplate during printing.\n\nHowever, it does sometimes cause the opposite problem of prints sticking too much and just not detaching from the build plate.\n\nI'm specifically not asking how to prevent this from happening - I'm asking what to do after I made a mistake and now have a print that isn't coming loose.\n\",tbm0115,\"I would do as fred_dot_u initially suggested, by increasing the bed temp (or using a hair dryer) to heat the BuildTak. Then, use a small fan to quickly cool the platform (or at least quicker than room temperature). An ice pack on the build plate/part could also work. This drastic fluctuation between the build platform (or BuildTak) and the part should make it easier to remove the part.\n\nThis works because the temperature coefficient is going to be different between the build plate, BuildTak, and the 3D printed part. So, each part rises and falls in temperature at different rates. When objects are heated and cooled, they expand and contract (respectively). Essentially, as each object expands and contracts at different rates, the objects begin to separate.\n\nA good example is if you've ever placed a jar into the fridge/freezer to make it easier to open. Typically the jar is glass and the lid is either plastic or metal. You'll notice that the lid is significantly easier to open, as opposed to its original state, because the lid and the jar physically react differently to temperature changes.\n\nAlso, here is a good article explaining a few different ways to remove a stuck part. (for prosperity sake, here's a quick list):\n\n\nBrute force. Just try to yank on it until it pries off.\nSharp objects. Try using a small blade to get under a corner of the part and wiggle the part a bit. Careful not to break the blade and send it flying.\nUtilize temperature difference. I already explained this above.\nUse solvents. I didn't know this, but apparently there are solvents in the market that are targeted for 3D printing maintenance. Essentially its just an alcohol-based liquid...\nUse floss. Another cool idea that's related to using a sharp object, using dental floss. Basically, any small object that you can remotely wiggle under the part and give you more leverage to yank on it.\nInvest in a flexible build platform. I've personally heard some mixed reviews on these (in present day of 2016). But material science is getting better every year, so who knows what will be available soon.\n\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n1207,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nir,2.8153892694839717,5.512337139472019,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,How to remove a PLA print stuck to a BuildTak sheet,\"BuildTak is great because the printed plastic really sticks to it, it pretty much solved all the problems I had with prints detaching from the buildplate during printing.\n\nHowever, it does sometimes cause the opposite problem of prints sticking too much and just not detaching from the build plate.\n\nI'm specifically not asking how to prevent this from happening - I'm asking what to do after I made a mistake and now have a print that isn't coming loose.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"If you have a heated bed, bring the bed up to a reasonable temperature, then do as best as you can to create rapid cooling. If you can remove the bed, heated or not, consider to place it in a freezer or refrigerator. Obviously, if the bed is heated, you'll want to handle the bed carefully and not place it on anything in the freezer that could be damaged while it cools.\n\nUnrealistically, pour liquid nitrogen over the bed. This may crack the bed and/or the model, as well as be all the more dangerous for unprotected users.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1497,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nir,3.0576060275493275,5.75428192301325,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.306096197889172,\"How to add internal supports/localized infill, preferably in Cura?\",\"I'm currently designing a very large and complicated model, because it's large and should be strong enough completely hollow I want to print it with no infill to save material.\n\nHowever, there are some points in the model where there are indentations in the top shell.\n\nThe bottom of those indentations are lower then the surrounding shell (pretty mush the dictionary definition of indentation) and so they are printed earlier with nothing to connect to.\n\nFor example, in the image below from Cura's layer view you can see two round surfaces just hanging in mid air\n\n\n\nObviously this can't be printed.\n\nWhat I'm currently doing is designing internal spaces inside the model where the internal space shell is holding the \"\"detached\"\" surfaces.\n\nWhat I want is a mostly automatic process that will generate a support structure inside where needed or that will generate infill but only between the floating surface and the nearest solid shell below it.\n\nReorienting the model is not an option because a. it wouldn't fit on the build plate and b. even if it did it has a lot of internal parts with different orientations so it would just move the problem from one part of the model to another. \n\nI usually use SketchUp for designing and Cura for slicing so I prefer something I can do in Cura - but since I strongly suspect this can't be done in Cura I'll accept answers that work with other tools\n\",darth pixel,\"I'm not really sure if i get you right but it seems like you gotta switch on support material. That's all. Correct me if I'm wrong but it sounds like very common situation where some parts are hanging like your yellow disks.\n\nOtherwise if your model is going to be closed at the bottom and at the top you can mock support on your own to have better control of it. How? Just add hollow cylinders under your disk so in fact cylinder will stay on the bottom layer then its walls will be support and finally your yellow disk will be a top cover of the cylinder. I hopw you can imagine that properly.\n\nAnother way is to design support elements wich would grow out of walls and this way support your disks\n\n\n\nMaybe if you would explain a bit more, what the model is then I could support you more.\n\n[edit]\n\nTo make it more automatic, you could try to use parametric CAD apps. I would say, Autodesk Inventor is one which I can suggest. You can use for example its Ribs functionality as support (varsion C).\n\n[edit2]\n\nAfter Tormod Haugene's and tbm0115's comments I decided to fill some gaps in my answer. Here go pros and cons of options A, B and C.\n\n\noption A\n\n\nThe simplest one and more or less automatic one. Which means when user add support then this option will be a result of it. Of course if user needs to have support only for the disk but over the disk there will be... a \"\"ceiling\"\" then option A cannot use regular support as it will generate a support also for the ceiling. For such situation user needs to add a cylinder manually (filled one) or\n\n\noption B\n\n\nUser can add hollow cyliner (just its walls). This option can give similar or higher stiffness as regular support because solid walls increase endurance tahn thin support grid.\n\n\noption C\n\n\nThis option (my personal choose) has some advantages unavailable in A or B option. First - support doesn't have to have \"\"ground\"\" base. It means the yellow disk can really hang even if there is no bottom layer at all. Second - it joins walls with disk and walls together so the stiffness concerns other surfaces.\n\nDepending on needs the cylinder (option A or B) can be transformed into a cross or pillar (thinner than cylinder itself). It can be more taper expandint to the top or to the bottom.\n\nThere could be even option where the above one would be joined with option C. So these (3) ribs would raise from the bottom but not from the walls.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1497,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nir,3.0576060275493275,5.75428192301325,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.306096197889172,\"How to add internal supports/localized infill, preferably in Cura?\",\"I'm currently designing a very large and complicated model, because it's large and should be strong enough completely hollow I want to print it with no infill to save material.\n\nHowever, there are some points in the model where there are indentations in the top shell.\n\nThe bottom of those indentations are lower then the surrounding shell (pretty mush the dictionary definition of indentation) and so they are printed earlier with nothing to connect to.\n\nFor example, in the image below from Cura's layer view you can see two round surfaces just hanging in mid air\n\n\n\nObviously this can't be printed.\n\nWhat I'm currently doing is designing internal spaces inside the model where the internal space shell is holding the \"\"detached\"\" surfaces.\n\nWhat I want is a mostly automatic process that will generate a support structure inside where needed or that will generate infill but only between the floating surface and the nearest solid shell below it.\n\nReorienting the model is not an option because a. it wouldn't fit on the build plate and b. even if it did it has a lot of internal parts with different orientations so it would just move the problem from one part of the model to another. \n\nI usually use SketchUp for designing and Cura for slicing so I prefer something I can do in Cura - but since I strongly suspect this can't be done in Cura I'll accept answers that work with other tools\n\",Tim Kuipers,\"In Cura 2 you can do several things:\n\n\nDesign internal support pillars, and make them an Infill Mesh via the Per-object settings. I suggest you also reduce the top/bottom thickness and Wall thickness of the infill mesh.\nEnable Hollow Out Objects and enable support.\nEnable gradual infill: increase the Gradual Infill Steps. Although this will still make infill everywhere it will drastically reduce the infill where it's less needed.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3853,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nir,4.541637296610063,6.936492817244281,4.072585167927022,5.199501240805782,4.932097101757954,3.7272071097011072,\"Which is more durable to sunlight/weather - PLA, ABS or PETG\",\"The backstory: I'm installing a pigeon net in my home. Because of the shape of the opening I'm installing the net in and the material on the sides it's difficult to anchor the net using the normal means but I can print clips that will hold the net in place.\n\nThe clips will be outside and will be exposed to the weather and direct sunlight, the weather here is relatively hot (up to 30C) with a lot of sun most of the year and rain in the winter.\n\nI only have PLA, ABS and PETG available, anything else will take too long to arrive.\n\nI don't care about the parts changing color and mostly I don't care about them deforming a little bit - only about breaking.\n\nIf the parts have to be replaced after a year I'm ok with it, less then that will be annoying, longer will be better.\n\nSo, under those conditions, which of the 3 materials is more durable?\n\",Nir,\"Ok, I tried all 3 materials.\n\nPLA failed after less then one day, I believe it deformed from the constant pressure and fell out (I didn't find the part but I didn't really search for it, there's some tall grass below the window)\n\nABS lasted about a year, it fell strait down and I found the part, it looks ok if probably deformed by just a few mm so it doesn't pressure fit anymore.\n\nPETG still going strong as I write this\n\",4.227070557464731,2.0769199823829045\n3853,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nir,4.541637296610063,6.936492817244281,4.072585167927022,5.199501240805782,4.932097101757954,3.7272071097011072,\"Which is more durable to sunlight/weather - PLA, ABS or PETG\",\"The backstory: I'm installing a pigeon net in my home. Because of the shape of the opening I'm installing the net in and the material on the sides it's difficult to anchor the net using the normal means but I can print clips that will hold the net in place.\n\nThe clips will be outside and will be exposed to the weather and direct sunlight, the weather here is relatively hot (up to 30C) with a lot of sun most of the year and rain in the winter.\n\nI only have PLA, ABS and PETG available, anything else will take too long to arrive.\n\nI don't care about the parts changing color and mostly I don't care about them deforming a little bit - only about breaking.\n\nIf the parts have to be replaced after a year I'm ok with it, less then that will be annoying, longer will be better.\n\nSo, under those conditions, which of the 3 materials is more durable?\n\",James Hanvey,\"I might be late to the party, but I have a suggestion. Why not use ASA filament, it's the kind of plastic used in car cup holders, lawn rakes and sprinkler heads, it is both heat and cold resistant, as well as solar stable and weatherproof. As far as printing with it it is similar to printing in ABS as far as I am aware, I might be wrong though. I personally am surprised how often this kind of question pops up and literally No One mentions ASA filament. I think I might buy some because I like the idea of printing something that can be left outside.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5161,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nir,3.452496054252184,5.414335191075213,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.7272071097011072,Under extrusion with Cura 3.1,\"I upgraded from Cura 2.7 to 3.1.0 and I'm getting horrible under extrusion, I'm sure this is the software because I rolled back to 2.7 and everything is working fine again.\n\nMy printing is a Robo3D R1+ using the \"\"custom FDM printer\"\" profile.\n\nIs there any new setting or a setting that isn't migrated properly that causes this?\n\",Mick,\"Some users have reported upgrades to Cura changing the filament size to the default 2.85 mm. If you are using 1.75 mm filament (which most printers do), you will get extreme under-extrusion.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n5161,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nir,3.452496054252184,5.414335191075213,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.7272071097011072,Under extrusion with Cura 3.1,\"I upgraded from Cura 2.7 to 3.1.0 and I'm getting horrible under extrusion, I'm sure this is the software because I rolled back to 2.7 and everything is working fine again.\n\nMy printing is a Robo3D R1+ using the \"\"custom FDM printer\"\" profile.\n\nIs there any new setting or a setting that isn't migrated properly that causes this?\n\",R..,\"I hit this issue again in January 2019 with CuraEngine 3.6+git. Since support for multiple extruders was added, it now auto-loads a per-extruder settings file that overrides the main settings file and the command line, so -s material_diameter=1.75 on the command line did not help. Given $foo.def.json, it seems to construct the filename %$foo_extruder_0.def.json, and if that does not exist, loads fdmextruder.def.json, which sets material_width to a default of 2.85.\n\nI was able to solve the problem by either patching fdmextruder.def.json, or making a copy of it named to match my printer's settings file, with the 2.85 changed to 1.75.\n\nUpdate: There should already be extruder files for supported printers, but they're in a different directory, so they won't be found when invoking CuraEngine from the command line unless you've set the CURA_ENGINE_SEARCH_PATH environment variable to include the path they're in. Alternatively you can copy them to the same directory as the main printer json files.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n318,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TheNewHobbyist,3.0576060275493275,4.272039549345993,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Can MeshMixer export models for color 3D printing?,\"I have captured several models using 123D Catch and Autodesk ReCap 360. \n\nI do all my \"\"clean up\"\" work in MeshMixer to prepare the models for printing, and while exporting to STL works great for printing on my home FDM printer I haven't been able to get color files exported.\n\nI would like to export scanned models from MeshMixer and upload them to an online printing service (i.e. Shapeways or iMaterialise) and have them printed on high end color machines.\n\nMy current workflow goes as follows. \n\n\nExport raw model (OBJ) from 123D Catch or ReCap.\nOpen model in MeshMixer v10.10.170.\nRemove unnecessary parts of the model.\nExport model as OBJ, OBJ with per vertex color, or VRML. \nZip model and exported texture files and upload to an online service.\n\n\nThe file in MeshMixer looks great, but ends up with either jumbled or nonexistent textures when it's uploaded to an online service. I'm guessing I'm exporting the file wrong for 3D printing, or possibly that I need to do some post-export editing to make everything line up correctly. \n\",Josip Ivic,\"Color is only displayed if you set MeshMixer to render VertexColor:\n\nMM menue/View/MeshColorMode/VertexColor\n\n\nColor should be visible if VertexColor is active.\n\n\nMeshmixer is a sculpting program, so it isn’t made for taking exact\nmeasurements, creating mechanical parts, or creating architecture\nmodels.\nBasic rendering options make pretty screenshots, but advanced users\nmight want to add in backgrounds or set up custom lighting.\n\n\nAlso, you can read more about this matter on this link.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n341,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TheNewHobbyist,2.1782824847157594,5.241767493156457,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Updating firmware on Monoprice Architect printer,\"I just received this printer and while it seems to talk to Makerbot Desktop software I'm not sure if I should be trying to update the firmware.\n\nThe printer comes with firmware v7.2 and while Makerbot Desktop offers an upgrade to v7.5 I'm not sure if it's a good idea with this non-Makerbot branded printer.\n\nI've also seen information on upgrading this printer to Sailfish v7.5, is this the same thing as Makerbot firmware v7.5?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"The Monoprice Architect is is a bare-bones FlashForge Creator that has been re-badged for Monoprice. The Creator line is a very popular set of printers, so there is lots of good advice out there. The FlashForge Google Group is a good community to join: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/flashforge\n\nThe entire FF Creator line, in turn, is cloned from the original Makerbot Replicator 1. So you can use Makerbot slicing profiles for the Replicator 1. Just keep in mind that Makerbot does not generally test new software revs with their older printers, and DEFINITELY does not test new software revs with competitor knock-offs. Sometimes they appear to break functionality for non-Makerbot machines on purpose. So recent versions of Makerbot Desktop may not \"\"play nice\"\" with your FlashForge. The most recent \"\"known good\"\" free slicer you should use with this printer is Makerware 2.4.x. You can find links by searching the FF Google Group.\n\nOn that note, you may have received instructions to use ReplicatorG with your printer. But RepG is abandonware: development stopped years ago. It should only be used for firmware updates, not as a slicer. You should also only use the most recent version posted on the Sailfish page on Thingiverse: \n\nhttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084\n\nUsing older versions of RepG with newer firmware revs will corrupt your EEPROM! Only use the version downloaded from the link above. \n\nThe firmware that comes with the printer is FlashForge's slightly-customized build of either Sailfish or Makerbot's Replicator 1/2/2x firmware. But here's the trick: Makerbot's Rep1/2/2x firmware is just an old, out-of-date, slightly customized version of Sailfish. Makerbot stopped keeping up with bug-fixes and feature additions a long time ago. Everything is Sailfish: just different versions. You should use the most recent official release version listed at:\n\nhttp://www.sailfishfirmware.com/\n\nFollow the instructions in the Sailfish manual from the link above, and RepG will automatically pull the right builds from the official mirror and populate a list of printer options to choose. The trick here is which build to download. As of 1-21-16, there is not an official Monoprice Architect build yet. Which would mean editing a machine xml profile to avoid the firmware throwing warnings. I STRONGLY recommend getting used to the printer using factory firmware before trying to fight with custom machine profiles... But here is the basic process to pick a Sailfish firmware build when you're ready:\n\nFirst: which Atmega processor version do you have? The large chip in the middle of the control board will either say 1280 or 2560. You need to know which version you have. Bad things happen if you load the wrong version.\n\nSecond: What is the tooth count on the X and Y drivetrain pulleys? To my knowledge, FF always uses 17-tooth pulleys, which matches the Replicator 1 and FF Creator profiles. The Rep2 and 2x use 18t pulleys, so only use those builds if you have those pulleys. People often mess this up and their prints end up with dimensions ~5% off in X and Y. \n\nThird: The Architect has one extruder and no heatbed, so firmware builds that expect those to be connected (Rep 1 Dual, Creator, etc) will throw errors if loaded. You can fix this from the LCD screen or RepG, but that's a whole separate question. Do some printing and learn about the printer before attempting any firmware update so you'll know what to do if you pick a build with the wrong parts. \n\nFourth: This one is just for the sake of completeness. Some FF models were shipped with off-spec heatbeds that require special firmware builds to prevent drawing too much current and overheating / overloading the power supply. The Architect doesn't have that, but firmware builds for those printer models (eg I believe the FF Creator 2560) will under-power regular heatbeds. This is just something you need to know with the Architect if you decide to install a heatbed later. But it's a really critical safety warning for people with those off-spec heatbeds. \n\nIf this all seems complicated, that's because FlashForge (and in turn Monoprice) relies heavily on the open source Sailfish project to maintain the software ecosystem behind this line of printers. FlashForge has some internal builds that they use for flashing new bots, but these are not kept particularly up-to-date. Nor does FlashForge release the source files, so it's quite opaque where exactly the stock firmware differs from mainstream Sailfish. In the long run, you should install mainline Sailfish. But it's ok to stick with the factory firmware until you get used to the printer. \n\nTo summarize: Because there is not an existing Sailfish build, you're going to need to do some investigating and some experimenting to figure out which build will work. Don't try that until you're familiar with the printer. Post on the FlashForge Google Group when you're ready for help.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n341,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TheNewHobbyist,2.1782824847157594,5.241767493156457,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Updating firmware on Monoprice Architect printer,\"I just received this printer and while it seems to talk to Makerbot Desktop software I'm not sure if I should be trying to update the firmware.\n\nThe printer comes with firmware v7.2 and while Makerbot Desktop offers an upgrade to v7.5 I'm not sure if it's a good idea with this non-Makerbot branded printer.\n\nI've also seen information on upgrading this printer to Sailfish v7.5, is this the same thing as Makerbot firmware v7.5?\n\",user304,\"Since the printer has no heater, I'd advise some sleuthing\n\n\nLook at the motherboard. Find the big black square chip and see if it is a ATmega 1280 or 2560. Likely it's a 1280, but you never know. This will impact which firmware build you use.\nIf you will eventually add a heater PCB, then figure out the size (wattage) of the power supply. It may be big enough now for a heated platform, or maybe not. I guess you can cross that bridge if/when you add a HBP (heated build platform). However, it can make a difference as to which firmware build you load as some builds of Sailfish will intentionally serialize heating so as to not put too high of a load on the power supply (PSU).\n\n\nArmed with the above info, you can then decide if you want a 1280 or 2560 build of Sailfish. And if you want a build which will serialize eventual use of an HBP or not.\n\nSerialized: MakerBot Replicator 1 Single & Dual (implied ATmega 1280), MakerBot Replicator 1 with ATmega 2560\n\nNon-serialized: FlashForge Creator I, II & X (implied ATmega 1280)\n\nFor a non-serialized, 2560 build know that the FlashForge one is for a poorly behaved heater PCB and you likely won't want it. That sort of leaves you without a good, non-serialized choice. In a pinch you can use the ZYYX 3D build for a 2560. Or you can contact the Sailfish team directly: speaking with very certain knowledge, I can assure you that they'd be happy to do a targetted build for your machine. However, at present they lack info to do so (e.g., build volume, distances from endstops to center of build platform, etc.).\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n371,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TheNewHobbyist,4.626593049438165,6.538207162137167,0.0,5.199501240805782,4.503257053771732,2.8378735685093597,How to identify nozzle wear,\"E3D-Online and1) Make Magazine havehas written about the potential damage printing carbon fiber and glow in the dark filaments can do to your printer's nozzle. \n\nWhat I can't seem to find is what clues or warning signs to be on the look out for if your nozzle has taken a significant amount of wear. I've printed a few hundred grams of glow filament personally and have not noticed any change in print quality.\n\nE3D says you may have \"\"unpredictable erratic printing\"\" with a worn nozzle. Can anyone explain or provide examples of what this actually means and when a replacement is necessary? \n\n1) E3D link not valid nor can content be found\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"I believe the little experiment made by E3D - the same link you provide - answers your question very well. Several points about wear can be found in this article. After printing only 250 grams of ColorFabb XT-CF20 (carbon fiber filament):\n\n\nThe nozzle diameter had increased markedly\nThe inner walls of the orifice (opening) showed deep sharp ridges and grooves\nThe tip of the nozzle had become critically rounded, and shortened\n\n\nAll of these symptoms were found repeatedly for standard brass nozzles.\n\nIn particular, I believe the last of these symptoms may be the one most easily identifiable without accurate measuring equipment (and without observing print quality).\n\nWith regards to reduction in print quality, these symptoms could be simulated by:\n\n\nSetting the nozzle diameter too big in your slicer\nLeveling your bed too high (the rounded tip will also reduce the length of the tip)\nPrinting with a partial clog that interruptus normal filament flow (due to the grooves and ridges)\n\n\nExactly what this will look like on your printed part is hard to predict, but I would assume you could see blobs, under-extrusion, poor layer adhesion, as well as an irregular surface finish of your top layers.\n\",3.859531739127555,2.0769199823829045\n371,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TheNewHobbyist,4.626593049438165,6.538207162137167,0.0,5.199501240805782,4.503257053771732,2.8378735685093597,How to identify nozzle wear,\"E3D-Online and1) Make Magazine havehas written about the potential damage printing carbon fiber and glow in the dark filaments can do to your printer's nozzle. \n\nWhat I can't seem to find is what clues or warning signs to be on the look out for if your nozzle has taken a significant amount of wear. I've printed a few hundred grams of glow filament personally and have not noticed any change in print quality.\n\nE3D says you may have \"\"unpredictable erratic printing\"\" with a worn nozzle. Can anyone explain or provide examples of what this actually means and when a replacement is necessary? \n\n1) E3D link not valid nor can content be found\n\",FarO,\"According to \r\n \r\n the inner diameter doesn't change much, but, as said by @0scar, the nozzle shortens and at the end you get to the inner cavity.\n\nCheck the length and you are done.\n\",0.0,0.0\n321,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ronan Paixão,3.267423727073639,4.563587938123535,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Can a common 3D printer be used to print masks for PCBs which use SMD components?,\"Common 3D printers (read \"\"cheap\"\") may be used to print masks for PCBs (printed-circuit boards) which use PTH (through-hole) components.\n\nBut can they be used to print PCBs which use SMD components? I'd like to make boards at least for Arduino-like SMD chips.\n\",TextGeek,\"In addition to the thermal issues Tormod raised, there is a conductivity issue. Present conductive filaments are much less conductive than copper. The power loss may be enough to affect functionality. Also, the lost power goes to heat, making the thermal problems worse.\n\nFor bulk materials, \"\"volume resistivity\"\" is measured in \"\"Ohm-cm\"\", which is the resistance of a 1 cm cube of the material, measured from one entire face to the opposite entire face (see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_resistivity_and_conductivity).\n\nCopper has a volume resistivity of about 1.68 microOhm-cm. \n\nProto-pasta conductive PLA filament claims 15 ohm-cm (http://www.proto-pasta.com/pages/conductive-pla). Functionalize F-Electic™ claims 0.75 ohm-cm (http://functionalize.com/about/functionalize-f-electric-highly-conductive-filament/).\n\nPrinting itself significantly raises resistivity. Proto-pasta claims 30 ohm-cm along X and Y, 115 along Z. More intuitively, each cm of length of a 2.5mm wide printed trace, 0.4mm thick, should add several hundred ohms with the Proto-pasta, or several tens of ohms with the F-electric. That may be enough to matter. \n\nIt's probably worth mentioning that there's a specialized PCB printer (the \"\"Voltera\"\") that uses (pricey) conductive ink, and can also dispense solder paste: http://www.computerworld.com/article/2885188/3d-circuit-board-printer-a-smash-hit-on-kickstarter.html\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n321,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ronan Paixão,3.267423727073639,4.563587938123535,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Can a common 3D printer be used to print masks for PCBs which use SMD components?,\"Common 3D printers (read \"\"cheap\"\") may be used to print masks for PCBs (printed-circuit boards) which use PTH (through-hole) components.\n\nBut can they be used to print PCBs which use SMD components? I'd like to make boards at least for Arduino-like SMD chips.\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"In theory, I imagine you can, but there are some practical considerations that might need some thought:\n\nIf you have a desktop printer with multiple extruders, you could probably print with both one conductive and one structural filament, and thereby build circuits in 3D.\n\nOne concern would be the low melting points of most 3D printed filaments, since one would have to limit the heat generated by the mounted components and connections so that the structure of the \"\"board\"\" would not be melted.\n\nMounting components to the board would also differ from a normal PCB, since you would have to connect the components with the conductive filament without melting the structure of the board. In other words, you probably would have to use conductive filament as \"\"solder\"\", and melt components into place. \n\nWhether you could use typical tools used for mounting SMD components with conductive filament as solder is beyond my knowledge. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n326,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tjb1,1.0891412423578797,2.2555978600897375,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Understand and developing firmware - IDE help,\"Lately I've been working on tweaking firmware to fix functions on my printer. A few of my biggest issues are lack of understanding of C and finding out how the multiple cpp and h files are linked. Most of what I am doing is easy enough to do with copy and paste but with most firmwares having 30+ individual files it's hard to find where each parameter comes from or goes to.\n\nI've been looking at Eclipse with an Arduino plugin as well as Visual Studio (or Atmel Studio) with the Visual Micro plugin. What I would like is an easy way to view where each parameter is used, maybe highlight the parameter and it shows all instances or something similar? Is there any IDE that offers something like that or is everyone using the Arduino IDE for firmware development?\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"As far as I know, Marlin - assuming that is the firmware you are using - is a standard C++ (the big brother of C) project that can be opened and compiled in the Arduino IDE, but also - at least - edited lots of other IDEs. \n\nDepending on your OS, there are several alternatives. Visual Studio, Atmel Studio, Qt Creator, XCode, Eclipse, Visual Studio Code, Atom, Sublime Text and the Arduino IDE are just some of them.\n\nI also believe that this question should be moved to StackOverflow. However, if you have questions as to how you can make specific modification to Marlin, this forum is the right place to ask. If that is the case, consider reformulating your question!\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n329,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Alexis Dufrenoy,2.528907649931287,3.9369334896349293,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Installing E3D v6 extruder electronics on Ultimaker Original+,\"I printed the mechanical parts to mount a E3D v6 on my Ultimaker Original+. But I don't know how to connect my heating cartridge, my thermistor and my 3 fans to the electronic board. Any idea?\n\nEdit: I should have said I'm using the following design: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-v6-hot-end-mount\n\nMy main problem is to connect all 3 fans, as the original design of the UMO+ is only using one.\n\",TextGeek,\"I'm not certain exactly what you're asking, but I'll give this a try. If I've misunderstood, please give more details.\n\nIt sounds like you're upgrading to the E3D v6. If so, the heater, thermistor, and fans should connect to the same places as the previous ones did. The exception would be if you had thermocouples instead of thermistors before; that's a more complicated change.\n\nIf the connectors are different, you'll need to get matching connectors from a parts supplier (post a picture if you're having trouble identifying them). Fortunately each of the items you mentioned has 2 wires, and for the heater and thermistor polarity doesn't matter. \n\nFor fans, polarity does matter, so match up red vs. black, or just try it one way, and if the fan doesn't turn, then swap the wires. Some fans have a third wire, which could be used for measuring the actual rotation speed (see [http://pcbheaven.com/wikipages/How_PC_Fans_Work]); but it's not necessary.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n334,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tony Hansen,4.030301511886631,3.3819507842569205,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Comparative design methods for joints that will be joined together,\"I want to 3D-print some parts that will be later joined together along a seam. When modeling these separate parts, what are some methods that work well with 3D-printed pieces? For example, if I were doing wood working, I might choose dowel and pin joints or mortise and tenon joints or glue overlapping pieces. What methods translate well into use with 3D-printed plastics? How does the answer change depending on the orientation of the joint along the printing direction? \n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"One of my favorite techniques is to join pieces with screws, and include a tapered feature that helps align the parts. A single screw can give a very strong joint, that is well-aligned and won't twist. Another advantage is that such joints can be printed in any orientation, since the tapered feature can be designed with 45 degree angles.\n\nHere is a cross-section example of such a joint:\n\n\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n380,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tony Hansen,4.541637296610063,6.285394280889121,3.507933925167123,5.199501240805782,4.503257053771732,3.884726419925141,Drilling 3D-printed plastic,\"I need to do some post processing of my 3D-printed models that includes adding some holes. For each of PLA, ABS, PETG and other 3D-printing materials:\n\nIn what ways is drilling a hole in a model made from that material like or unlike drilling wood? Is it worth getting special \"\"plastic drilling bits\"\" that cost tons of money or can I use regular high speed drill bits? Do these plastics have grain that they will split on when drilled into, and if so, what are ways to avoid such splitting? Are higher speeds better, or lower speeds, or should I only use a finger-twirled bit holder?\n\nAre some 3D-printing materials easier to drill than others?\n\nWhat other methods also work for creating a hole in the different types of plastics?\n\",Diesel,\"The primary difference between drilling FDM printed plastic and wood is that the plastic part is not solid the entire way through, and that plastic will melt or burn at much lower temperatures than wood.\n\nIf you know before printing that you're going to want to drill the part or potentially need to, then you'll want to modify the design of the part such that there will be sufficient internal reinforcement and material in the location of the drill site. The way I've done this in the past is put a through hole through the the entire part and slightly undersize the hole. Then I also increase the number of shells on the part so that the threads will have some extra material to bite into. \n\nIf you know you're going to need a hole in the part but not sure where then I'd suggest using the highest level of infill possible on the print so that your part will be as close as possible to being solid plastic. Or if there are a few areas you think might need to be drilled you can build your own internal structure but that can take a lot of time.\n\nIf you didn't know your part was going to need to be drilled AND you printed with minimal infill then be very careful about drilling and only use minimal pressure to cut through the top layer to avoid crushing the part. Then once the part is drilled all the way through consider filling the part with an epoxy to reinforce the hole location (if necessary). \n\nBest case scenario though is knowing where and how big you need the hole to be before print. Of course though specs change on the daily.\n\nAs for the heat generated from the drilling process I haven't had much trouble with dissipating it. My 'method' for drilling a printed part (technically reaming) is that after I align my hole with my drill press, I then tap the drill-bit cutting only a millimeter at a time, then retract, wait a few seconds then repeat until all the way through. A little time consuming but my reasoning is to minimize burning and overheating of the hole due to the cutting friction.\n\nIn all honesty I think my drilling approach is overkill. But, every time I've needed to do it has been due to an error in modelling. I didn't have the time to reprint and was under a time crunch. My post processing step therefore did not have the option to fail so I was extra careful. Whether it was overkill or not it definitely worked, and it's always better to be a little more cautious than late.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n380,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tony Hansen,4.541637296610063,6.285394280889121,3.507933925167123,5.199501240805782,4.503257053771732,3.884726419925141,Drilling 3D-printed plastic,\"I need to do some post processing of my 3D-printed models that includes adding some holes. For each of PLA, ABS, PETG and other 3D-printing materials:\n\nIn what ways is drilling a hole in a model made from that material like or unlike drilling wood? Is it worth getting special \"\"plastic drilling bits\"\" that cost tons of money or can I use regular high speed drill bits? Do these plastics have grain that they will split on when drilled into, and if so, what are ways to avoid such splitting? Are higher speeds better, or lower speeds, or should I only use a finger-twirled bit holder?\n\nAre some 3D-printing materials easier to drill than others?\n\nWhat other methods also work for creating a hole in the different types of plastics?\n\",Robin Keskisarkka,\"Drilling is indeed possible, but as stated in previous answers you should preferably do this along the vertical from the print bed for maximum strength, and if possible use an undersized hole as a starting point/guide. Drilling horizontally may cause the layers to separate but if you clamp down in the z-direction you're much more likely to succeed. It's likely to start cracking if even a relatively small torque is applied (one layer with bad adhesion is enough to make it surprisingly weak). If you still need to apply torque from the horizontal consider reinforcing the structure in the z-direction or splitting your print and gluing/fusing the pieces together to get some strength in both directions.\nTwo holes of decent strength (one along the vertical and one along the horizontal) can also be achieved by adding vertical holes and bolt the layers together. \nWhen drilling take care not to apply too much force and make sure the excess doesn't get stuck in the drill bit. Any drill bit should work but I find that wood ones have a slight higher tendency to make the bit jam. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n339,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tbm0115,3.452496054252184,4.153096262786704,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,MakerBot Replicator 1 Voltage Regulator Fix,\"My Replicator (you know, the one made of balsa wood) has blown a voltage regulator on its MightyBoard for the second time. The first time, MakerBot graciously replaced it. However, they replaced with the same model board with no apparent fix for the commonly faulty voltage regulator. I can't afford the now $500 replacement board, so my option is to replace the faulty component and hope no further damage was taken on the board.\n\nAs MakerBot Industries did not need me to send in my old board, I've followed these steps to try and replace the voltage regulator on the old board.\n\nI've offset the voltage regulator towards the power jack, jumped the remaining pin on the voltage regulator to the remaining lead on the board (where the old voltage regulator was), but I'm confused what/where the green wire does/goes (mine is blue on my machine). The image looks like he just soldered it onto the heat sink pad.\n\nI tried to test it by plugging in the power and the RGB LED strip. The stepper motor driver LEDs turned on, but the LED strip and none of the other on-board LEDs turned on. I'm not very seasoned when it comes to electronics, so can anyone explain what the actual pinout should be or suggest other ways to resolve this issue?\n\nUpdate: Old Board Replacement\n\nSo far I've replaced the regulator on my old board with some success. Before the replacement, the board wouldn't turn on (on-board LEDs wouldn't turn on). Now, all of the proper status LEDs turn on, but the board seems to be stuck in a boot sequence. The LCD screen provides two lines of block characters (as it normally does when initializing), but just hangs up there. I tried connecting the machine to my PC to try and restore the board to factory settings and install the latest firmware. However, the PC couldn't find the machine and I began to smell a bit of burning. I'm not sure if this is a result of permanent damage from the original regulator failing, or improper installation of the new regulator.\n\nI'm going to dig around a bit more before attempting this fix on my main board. I'll edit this post as I continue the project.\n\nUpdate: New Board Replacement\n\nSo, I've now attempted the fix on the newest board (the reason for this question). The results of this board are the same as the old one. I actually get power on the main board, but the LCD screen just shows two solid lines. I've taken pictures of what I've done.\n\n\n\n\n\",TextGeek,\"What's the part number of the regulator you're putting in? The pin assignments vary from one part to another, but you can probably find them from the part number online. Some parts have the ground pin also connected to a metal part of their case. The green wire from the board should be ground (no promises!)\n\nAssuming you've got a voltmeter, you can use it to find out which pins on the board are power and ground (easiest to do before the regulator is installed...). Then once installed, check that you're really getting 5V versus ground on the remaining (output) pin.\n\nSince 2 of these burned out on you, I suggest taking steps to reduce the strain on the regulator. Voltage regulators turn the excess power into heat. Some things that can help:\n\n\nUse heat sink grease to conduct heat from the regulator to the circuit board, the adjacent socket, etc. Hot melt glue, as the instructions you linked to mention, won't likely provide as much heat conduction.\nAttach a heat sink to the regulator, or a bigger heat sink.\nGet more air blowing across the regulator. You could do this by moving the regulator slightly, adding a fan, adding something to redirect some air onto the regulator, etc.\nSwap in a bigger voltage regulator (that is, one rated for more current)\nTurn down the voltage just a tiny bit on your power supply (if it has a control for that; many do).\n\n\nLet us know how it turns out!\n\nSteve\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n588,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tbm0115,3.0576060275493275,4.998128065547146,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.548335113978322,3.9829738809469584,Is it possible to use an aftermarket controller on a MakerBot?,\"I've got a dead MakerBot Replicator Dual and I'm not really interested in fixing it with about half the parts being proprietary, discontinued, and therefore very expensive. So, I'm wondering if it's possible to use a controller board used on some of the other RepRap machines.\n\nI'd assume that it's all relatively the same, mostly need a means of routing/regulating power to the servos/fans/etc. based on a g-code. If that's true, then I'm also assuming the next step is ensuring the slicing engine spits out the right format for the board (.s3g, .x3g, .gcode, etc.) and that the slicing engine knows the proper bounds for the machine.\n\nSide question, if I used an another controller board, would I be able to still run MakerWare/MakerBot Desktop? So far, I've preferred the MiracleGrue slicer, but I've used Cura on Octopi and it'd suffice.\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"You can put pretty much any controller in pretty much any printer, with a few noteworthy details you need to keep in mind for a Replicator 1.\n\n\nMakerbots use thermocouples. Most RepRap style 3d printers use thermistors. So you would need to replace the extruder temp sensors, or choose a new controller with thermocouple support. \nMakerbots use 24v heaters and fans and PSUs. Most RepRap style 3d printers run on 12v (although this is slowly changing because 24v is better for performance and safety.) You can either pick a new controller that is known to be compatible with 24v, or replace all 24v-rated components with equivalent 12v-rated components. \nThe existing heatbed thermistor circuit is probably not the same kind of circuit that your new controller will expect. Older Makerbots use a small voltage divider circuit on the HBP PCB to convert the thermistor resistance to a voltage signal, whereas RepRap style controllers typically have this circuit on the mainboard and thus need only a simple thermistor hookup. You could add a new thermistor, or modify the existing circuit, or get an entirely new heatbed. \nThe existing endstops are full +5v,GND,Signal style mechanical switches with debounce capacitors and LED indicators. These should be compatible with most controller boards given proper firmware setting, but you may need to do some creative wiring if there isn't a suitable three-pin endstop port on your chosen board.\nThe LCD and 5-button panel will not work with other boards. You'll need to replace that or just run a remote host via USB.\nConnectors may be different, of course. That's always an issue with any board swap. \nYou will need to export RepRap style gcode instead of .x3g files. Makerware/Desktop can export gcode but there may be some minor differences in Mcode assignments from what most RepRap style firmware will expect. I couldn't tell you offhand whether this will work, but to be safe, it would probably be best to use a more traditional RepRap slicer (Slic3r, Cura) or Simplify3D.\n\n\nSo that's a healthy to-do list. At a certain point you're practically building a new printer. But there is a significantly easier approach than installing a RepRap style controller: replace the dead Makerbot Mightyboard with a compatible community-designed Sailfish board like the Azteeg x3 by Panucatt or new CloneBoard Mini by Carl Raffle. Or, if you're ok with Chinese sourcing, a FlashForge Mightyboard will be a near 100% drop-fit replacement for your Makerbot Mightyboard. Any of these options will give you fresh new electronics with minimal hardware changes in the rest of the printer. \n\nEither way is fine and you'll end up with a working printer. Using another Sailfish board will certainly be easier, if you don't object to staying within the Sailfish/x3g toolchain and Makerbot/Clone parts ecosystem. Makerbot does have a very bad community reputation these days, but it's important to remember that the Replicator 1 Dual is a completely open-source machine from the \"\"pre-evil\"\" days, and compatible spare parts are widely available from literally dozens of vendors. The Rep1-derived Makerbots and Clones collectively comprise the most popular single \"\"flavor\"\" of 3d printer in the world (totaling as much as perhaps a quarter of all consumer/hobbyist 3d printers sold to date) and many/most of the spare parts for Replicator 2/2x's and clones will also fit in a genuine Rep1. \n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n605,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tbm0115,1.726248027126092,4.335571023135903,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,What is the MightyBoard 1280 IO used for?,\"While I've worked on fixing my voltage regulator on my MightyBoard, I've noticed an extra set of pins available labeled Atmega 1280 IO. I've tried finding documentation on what these pin can be used for to no avail. I'm curious if there is any use for them within the scope of MakerBot's Conveyor service or even what sort of functionality with regard to the board itself.\n\nAny links to documentation on this subject would be greatly appreciated.\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"If you check the Mightyboard RevE files on Thingiverse (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16058/#files) you will find the schematics and PCB files (.sch and .brd) for the version of the board used in Replicator 1s and (with some minor mods) most clones. The Atmega 1280 IO header section is a bunch of breakout pins for debug functions. There are eight sets of signal/5v/gnd groupings. Four of them are currently driving debug LEDs that show flash codes for particular firmware failure modes. The other four are unused as far as I'm aware. \n\nThe ninth and tenth pins shown in the schematic are located on the opposite end of the board, near the 8U2 chip, to give some hacking access to that chip as well. (The 8U2 handles USB comms and firmware flashing the Atmega 1280.)\n\n\n\nIf desired, you can build your own firmware using these pins for other purposes, such as signaling to external equipment. But building Sailfish is a little more difficult than just running the latest Arduino IDE (for compiler stability reasons) so the vast majority of Mightyboard users never bother modifying their firmware.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n768,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tbm0115,3.452496054252184,4.203474562571316,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.6229190288168605,Filament Guides Drag,\"Backstory\n\nI've had issues in the past with my drive gear \"\"eating\"\" my filament. It seemed that the filament quit extruding for one reason or another and the drive gear would slowly eat away at the side of the filament.\n\nI eventually assumed it was the plastic filament guides causing unnecessary tension that the drive gear couldn't compete with, ultimately keeping the filament from moving forward. Thusly, allowing the drive gear to continue \"\"trying\"\".\n\nMy solution was to hang my spools above the machine to avoid using the filament guides feeding from the back of the machine up through the top.\n\nQuestion\n\nCan the plastic filament guides really cause that much drag? What other variables can I expect to look out for?\n\nMachine: MakerBot Replicator Dual (1st Generation)\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"For an easy test, try manually pulling the filament through the U-loop of guide tube. How hard is it to pull through? It should only take 1-2 lbs of tension at most. \n\nThen do a \"\"tug test\"\" on the extruder. Start it loading and grab the filament by hand to try to stop it from extruding. The Replicator 1/2/2x extruder style can typically pull ~8-10 lbs of tension and it should be fairly difficult to stop the filament. When you do stop the filament, you should hear clicking/thumping from the stepper stalling, NOT quiet grinding as the drive gear chews through the filament. If the grip slips rather than stalls, your extruder hardware needs to be tuned or replaced. \n\nThere are three common causes of excessive feed tube drag:\n\n\nUse of polyethylene tubing instead of PTFE -- this makes a shockingly large difference in drag friction. You can use a heat gun or torch (outside!!) to tell the difference between PE and PTFE. PE will soften quickly and then melt fairly easily, whereas PTFE will simply go clear and eventually char without melting. Nylon is also sometimes used for feed tubes with acceptable results, but if you have any suspicion about the tube material, just buy new PTFE tubes from a reputable vendor like McMaster. \nToo many loops/curves in the tube. Total drag friction is an exponential function of the total amount of curvature in the tube. You should have one good U-loop, no spirals or floppy zig-zags. \nExcessive friction on the spool rotation. Any spool back-tension gets greatly magnified through the feed tube per the capstan equation. This can be caused by a bad spool holder, or if the filament is knotted on the spool due to letting the end of the spool loose during handling. \n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n768,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tbm0115,3.452496054252184,4.203474562571316,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.6229190288168605,Filament Guides Drag,\"Backstory\n\nI've had issues in the past with my drive gear \"\"eating\"\" my filament. It seemed that the filament quit extruding for one reason or another and the drive gear would slowly eat away at the side of the filament.\n\nI eventually assumed it was the plastic filament guides causing unnecessary tension that the drive gear couldn't compete with, ultimately keeping the filament from moving forward. Thusly, allowing the drive gear to continue \"\"trying\"\".\n\nMy solution was to hang my spools above the machine to avoid using the filament guides feeding from the back of the machine up through the top.\n\nQuestion\n\nCan the plastic filament guides really cause that much drag? What other variables can I expect to look out for?\n\nMachine: MakerBot Replicator Dual (1st Generation)\n\",Zuryn,\"I have a few hundred printing hours on a Monoprice Dual Extrusion, which is essentially the same thing. I've had a couple random issues that lead to filament stripping by the extruder motor:\n\n\nClogs (either a buildup of material over time, or from over-retraction)\nFilament kinks around the spool holder\nSome other restriction of the spool's rotation\n\n\nI suspected the guides early on, but the grips on the rotor are actually fairly strong and the guide tubes are smooth enough to not cause a problem by themselves; I'd recommend looking at the other ends of the assembly first, as they're more likely to cause a problem. If you preheat the nozzle, open the tensioner on the extruder stepper, and can't push the filament into the nozzle with your fingers, the motor won't be able to do it either.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n801,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tbm0115,3.452496054252184,4.516805406373626,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,3.929104701733314,3.7272071097011072,Cons to UV printing,\"I've been curious about the various UV/Laser printers in (or coming into) market that use liquid resin. I've seen the samples of the Pegasus Touch, Form1, and the Carbon3D as examples. I like the specifications of the quality that machines can put out. However, in my experience with FDM printing, there almost always seems to be something not quite right about the print.\n\nSo, what are some major maintenance considerations for these types of 3D printing? Also, specifically, are supports and overhangs as much an issue in these types of printers as with FDM/FFF?\n\nHere are some things I consider major maintenance considerations in FDM:\n\n\nExtruder Clogging\nBuild platform conditions (i.e. levelness, clean, type of tape, bubbles in tape)\nVariances in material quality (i.e. diameter, purity, physical conditions)\nMechanics of the machine (i.e. belts, rods, gear teeth, etc.)\nBuild environment (i.e. ensuring steady temperature in the build environment, minimize draft)\n\n\nI'm not necessarily looking for printer recommendations, more so technical insight on the technology.\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"Despite how many vendors make it appear, resin-curing SLA/DLP printers are industrial or commercial tools that are really not suitable for home desktop use. Here are the major downsides:\n\n\nSignificantly more expensive to operate than FDM printers, in most cases. \nThe resin is seriously toxic until fully cured. Fumes can be an issue for users handling raw resin, and you should NEVER put a photopolymer print into a chemically-sensitive environment like an aquarium or children's toy. \nPrints require messy post-processing to rinse off excess resin (usually with rubbing alcohol) and additional UV light exposure to finish hardening the photopolymer. The used alcohol/resin rinse mix is basically hazmat waste. \nIn bottom-up printers, the window in the print vat is typically a consumable. Some printers require replacing the vat ($$) after every liter or two of cured resin. (Technology is advancing rapidly here though.)\nThe peel mechanism in bottom-up printers is often a major source of print flaws, due to the need to rock/tilt/slide the print to free it from the vat window.\nIn top-down printers, you have to pay a large up-front consumables cost to initially fill the resin tank. (There are workarounds here like floating a layer of resin on brine, but these have their own technical issues.)\nIf you leave the resin in the printer for an extended period, you'll probably find a hardened layer on the surface from stray light exposure and have to clean out or replace the vat.\nResin vats/tanks need to be kept clean and free of cured resin debris from failed prints or stray light. \nEvery combination of resin chemistry, printer light source, and printer optics requires specific tuning to dial in the photopolymer curing behavior. This means it's somewhat difficult to change resin brands, and you may effectively be locked into the printer manufacturer's resin. Many light sources will change in intensity or develop dim regions over time as they age, which will either harm print quality, require period recalibration, or require frequent light source replacement. \nThere is a limited number of options for print materials. Technology here is advancing rapidly, but for the most part, SLA/DLP prints are non-load-bearing models with a limited range of color options. \n\n\nThese are some pretty significant \"\"user experience\"\" downsides compared to a consumer desktop FDM printer. It's more hazard, more work, and more cost than FDM. SLA/DLP is primarily advantageous where high resolution or high print speeds are required. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n801,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tbm0115,3.452496054252184,4.516805406373626,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,3.929104701733314,3.7272071097011072,Cons to UV printing,\"I've been curious about the various UV/Laser printers in (or coming into) market that use liquid resin. I've seen the samples of the Pegasus Touch, Form1, and the Carbon3D as examples. I like the specifications of the quality that machines can put out. However, in my experience with FDM printing, there almost always seems to be something not quite right about the print.\n\nSo, what are some major maintenance considerations for these types of 3D printing? Also, specifically, are supports and overhangs as much an issue in these types of printers as with FDM/FFF?\n\nHere are some things I consider major maintenance considerations in FDM:\n\n\nExtruder Clogging\nBuild platform conditions (i.e. levelness, clean, type of tape, bubbles in tape)\nVariances in material quality (i.e. diameter, purity, physical conditions)\nMechanics of the machine (i.e. belts, rods, gear teeth, etc.)\nBuild environment (i.e. ensuring steady temperature in the build environment, minimize draft)\n\n\nI'm not necessarily looking for printer recommendations, more so technical insight on the technology.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Taken in order your questions:\n\nMaintenance for a resin printer means keeping the vat or tray clean, using appropriate methods to remove the unused resin (or leaving it in the vat per manufacturer's directions). Cleaning the tray should be done also per manufacturer's spec, although each printer's user forum may provide better or more effective options.\n\nThe Pegasus Touch has a caution regarding dripping resin on the mirrors, so there's operational care considerations for these types of printers.\n\nThere is a build platform for these printers. The flatness and level are as critical or more so for resin printers, as the resolution can be astonishingly high. If any portion of a print does not bond to the platform, that entire print will have a failed section, creating an entirely failed print. Gravity is not particularly helpful in that respect, at least with the Pegasus Touch.\n\nThe release medium varies from device to device. The Pegasus Touch originally used PDMS (silicon release compound) and now uses what's called a SuperVat. The plastic material in the SuperVat is purported to provide better release and fewer failures, along with increased lifespan. PDMS becomes cloudy from repeated printing in the same location and can be torn away from the vat if the print does not properly release.\n\nI've become aware of a product from Australia that has had good reports from use in a B9 Creator resin printer. The report indicates that it releases the model quite easily and barely turns cloudy. I have an order pending for this material, as I am hopeful it will perform as described.\n\nThe mechanics are also varied. One expects a system to raise and lower the build platform and to direct the laser or illumination system (DLP), but generally, this type of printer is somewhat simpler mechanically.\n\nBecause I live in a hot humid climate, my Pegasus Touch remains in the box, and my brain is about to explode with what I've learned of using it. Environmental conditions are likely to vary with different machines. I've seen references that 70 degrees F is too cold, others that say 70-75 degrees F is just fine, anything higher is too hot. Another user says that 65 degrees is good. The type of resin also becomes an important factor for environmental conditions.\n\nThe laser will create heat in the resin, so I'm inclined to believe that cooler is better. Different colors require different durations of laser light, somewhat akin to various plastics having different temperatures.\n\nsupports and overhangs are important considerations in an SLA or DLP printer, just as they are in FDM.\n\nExpect also that many of the resin printers require that the user purchase only the product provided by the manufacturer. This isn't necessarily a negative as most of the resin sources are priced similarly.\n\nIf I've missed any part of your question, let me know.\n\",3.367452517504837,2.0769199823829045\n1012,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tbm0115,2.8153892694839717,3.7565075859760677,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.265283966335819,Power Supply Safety,\"I just recently purchased a new MightyBoard (Rev G) for my Replicator that requires a new power supply. \n\nThe power supply for the Rev E was a 24 V/9.2 A which was necessary for the dual extruders and heated bed. I know I need a 24 V power supply, but should I be concerned about the amperage? What will a higher (or lower) rating affect on my machine?\n\",kamuro,\"A short, figurative answer from the electronical point of view:\n\nA power supply (an an analogy you can view it as a water pump) as used by 3D printers is usually supplying a fixed voltage (a constant pressure going into your pipe system), in your case 24V.\n\nThe given amperage/current (the amount of water that actually flows) that is actually utilized at a given point in time is determined by whatever you hook up to your power supply (the system of tubes or pipes - imagine a valve like your tap/faucet). Now the amperage rating of your power supply gives how much current you can run through your electrical system (as is the flow of your tap/faucet by the pump if you had a limitless big, imigainative one).\n\nThe power that your supply can deliver is the product of voltage and amperage: P(power) = U(voltage)*I(current).\n\nWhat you need to make sure is that a) you deliver the correct voltage, because this is what your circuitry needs to be specifically designed for (image the pressure of your pump being too low or to high, - you either won't recieve any water in the second floor, or your tubing can't stand the pressure) and b) that you can supply at least the needed power (otherwise you get a problem once you open up all the taps/faucets in your house, because they don't supply as much water as demanded). If your power supply can give more current, that's fine, it might just not be used. And as mentioned by Thetravellingfool already, keep a certain plus for losses and as a reserve, because no pump likes to run constantly at it's limits either ;)\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1012,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tbm0115,2.8153892694839717,3.7565075859760677,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.265283966335819,Power Supply Safety,\"I just recently purchased a new MightyBoard (Rev G) for my Replicator that requires a new power supply. \n\nThe power supply for the Rev E was a 24 V/9.2 A which was necessary for the dual extruders and heated bed. I know I need a 24 V power supply, but should I be concerned about the amperage? What will a higher (or lower) rating affect on my machine?\n\",Thetravellingfool,\"I suggest looking at the maximum amperage draw for all components that could be on at one time, and then find a power supply that can supply at least 20% more current. You would never want to get a supply rated for lower current than your max draw, because then it will affect the torque or your motors, or the temperature to which your heaters can get. \n\nThink of it like this: An outlet at home may be rated at 115V/20A. Your blender is not going to draw the full 20A; having a little extra never hurts. But if you try to run a large appliance (dryer, hot tub, etc.) on a smaller amp circuit, the breaker would blow because you are trying to draw more than it can supply. \n\nThe point is, get something rated for higher than you need, within reason. It will draw only what it needs.\n\nPro tip: Make sure to set the current limits on your stepper motor drivers for maximum performance!\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n1083,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tbm0115,3.767809650974757,5.723686619758578,3.507933925167123,4.670422881206417,3.548335113978322,2.531698478710706,Layer delamination,\"I've printed mostly ABS in the past and encountered delamination between layers many times. I've ensured the following conditions regularly:\n\n\nBuild plate is level\nBase of print isn't warped (using ABS slurry)\nPrevent air draft. I've added acrylic panels to the sides of the machine and the machine is in a custom cupboard.\nNozzle temperature at about 225C\nHBP temperature at about 112C (I live in NW USA, so the ambient temperature is typically fairly cool).\nUsing MakerBot filament\n\n\nWhat are some other variables to consider to help prevent delamination between layers?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"Cool environmental conditions are the single biggest contributor to ABS delamination. Delamination or edge/corner cracking is caused by warping stresses when the first layer adhesion is stronger than the interlayer bonding. Or it happens when the heated build plate allows a strong non-warping foundation to be built until the print is too tall to be adequately warmed by the plate. In either case, the corners of the first layer can't lift, so the print cracks elsewhere to relieve the stress. \n\nAll ABS warping stress, in turn, is caused by the repeated thermal contraction of the fresh plastic layer at the top of the print. The FDM process sticks hot, expanded plastic onto cool, contracted plastic. When the new layer cools, it tries to contract, but it's stuck to a layer that is already fully cooled/contracted. This generates a large shear stress between the two layers. The accumulation of those shear stresses over many consecutive layers generates a large-scale bending force on the entire print. That's what causes both warping and delamination. \n\n\n\nThe less the previous layer cools below the glass point of the plastic, the less thermal contraction it experiences before the next layer goes down, and therefore the less warping stress will accumulate as the next layer cools.\n\nEnvironment temp is the biggest thing you can control:\n\n\nIf your printer's environment is below 35C, you probably shouldn't even bother printing ABS. \nA 50C environment is significantly better and will have minimal problems with warping and delamination. This is within the ambient temp ratings of most motors and electronics. Air-cooled extruders can typically extrude ABS reliably up to about 60C ambient, at which point they may be prone to clogging. And don't forget about plastic structural parts in your printer.\nIndustrial ABS printers with heated build chambers print ABS in a 75-85C environment, with lots of airflow. In terms of cooling regimes, ABS in an 80C chamber acts very similar to PLA in a room-temp environment. No warping, but lots of airflow required for good detail. \n\n\nPrinting ABS at a higher nozzle temperature (say 240-250C) will also improve layer adhesion so delamination is less likely to occur. The same warping stresses will be there, but the layer bonding may be stronger than the internal stresses in the part so it survives printing.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n1083,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tbm0115,3.767809650974757,5.723686619758578,3.507933925167123,4.670422881206417,3.548335113978322,2.531698478710706,Layer delamination,\"I've printed mostly ABS in the past and encountered delamination between layers many times. I've ensured the following conditions regularly:\n\n\nBuild plate is level\nBase of print isn't warped (using ABS slurry)\nPrevent air draft. I've added acrylic panels to the sides of the machine and the machine is in a custom cupboard.\nNozzle temperature at about 225C\nHBP temperature at about 112C (I live in NW USA, so the ambient temperature is typically fairly cool).\nUsing MakerBot filament\n\n\nWhat are some other variables to consider to help prevent delamination between layers?\n\",darth pixel,\"I know some could not fit your question but maybe someone will look for all possibilities.\n\nDelamination can be caused by:\n\n\nfilament\n\n\nhumidity\ndiameter\n\nextruder\n\n\npressure (holdfast) - soft filament can be crumpled caused by extensive retraction)\ndirty jagger teeth (knurls)\nthermistor/wire failure - when it reports temp under ie 170C then extruder doesn't extrude\ncaret floatage (extruder motor cannot pull filament so it climbs)\n\ngeneral\n\n\nprinting speed\ntemperature issue\n\n\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n1164,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tbm0115,1.0891412423578797,3.9434205323647253,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Pros to UV printing,\"This is related to Cons to UV printing and focused on Ryan Carlyle's answer, mentioning:\n\n\n \"\"...resin-curing SLA/DLP printers are industrial or commercial tools that are really not suitable for home desktop use.\"\"\n\n\nSo, my general question is what are the pros to using a DLP printer in an manufacturing environment?\n\nMy experience with 3D printing in manufacturing has shown me the necessity of understanding material strengths as well as how to utilize the 3D printing technology (FDM mostly) to produce a structurally strong part. Most of what I've made has been fixtures with small to moderate forces applied to them.\n\nIn short, are there any technological advantages to using a DLP printer in a manufacturing environment?\n\",Eric Johnson,\"When using a DLP 3D printer, a projector (or other UV light source) is shining on a layer of resin. As the light source shines on a whole layer at a time, it is able to print at a rather constant linear vertical rate. This rate is normally around 1 inch/hour\n\nWhen comparing this to a standard FDM printer or a single laser system (such as the Pegasus Touch. The printer takes more time on more complicated layers. If a you were able to print the same 1 inch, at .3mm layer height, it would be a total of ~85 layers. This would allow for ~42 seconds per layer. Most layers would take longer from this (from personal experience).\n\nWith the constant layer rate, multiple objects can also be printed at once because if the printer has to print the layer for the first object, it is not taking more time for it to cure resin in another location on the print bed.\n\nIn addition to this, DLP printers can have much better resolutions than FDM printers. A DLP printer such as the Titan 1 has a 37um XY resolution while a Prusa i3 has a resolution closer to 300 or 400 um.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3164,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tbm0115,3.267423727073639,4.09181718796098,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,What is the MakerBot Grip Surface lifespan?,\"I've done a few prints on my MakerBot Replicator+ now and I'm curious if anyone else knows what the typical lifespan is signs of degradation are for the grip surface tape?\n\nI'm used to using Kapton tape in the past. Which will bubble, scratch, and even tear at times, indicating that the tape should be replaced. However, this new MakerBot \"\"Grip Tape\"\" is a very stiff, precut material, with extruded plastic anchors to help evenly spread the tape and keep it secure on the build platform. The tape also has texturing on the top face that helps with adhesion.\n\nSo, this new tape seems somewhat impervious to bubbling, scratches, and tears. I'm curious what signs I can look out for that indicate that this new grip tape needs to be replaced.\n\nObviously the tape isn't a permanent solution, so what are some signs that the tape should be replaced?\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"There's no quantitative formula for the lifespan of any grip material, be it tape, glue, or PEI sheet. If you find a lack of stiction and it's not due to small changes in the Z-origin (50 microns can make a big difference in the way the first layer grabs the bed!), then replace the tape. It's cheap.\n\nJust to be pedantic, torn and scarred tape should be replaced :-) \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3219,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tbm0115,2.8153892694839717,4.2490217041645435,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,MakerBot Camera Stream,\"Is it possible to use the onboard camera on the 5th+ generation MakerBot printers to stream or save to a file?\n\nI'd like to try and use the stream for customers on my 3DHubs account and they recommend setting up a YouTube stream. However, even if I'm able to stream to VLC Player or something, I'd like to get the video/images somehow.\n\",StarWind0,\"I own the gen 5, not the gen 5+. As far as I can tell, the camera has not gotten much of an upgrade and the software is also just as limited. That said to be sure I verified on several sites such as this reddit. \n\nThere are some that claim that the software is open source. I do not think this is true given the parent company. Following even if it was you do not want to use their camera. It is shocking how cheap they went on this ultra premium printer. Which despite printing very well has not been received well. The main issue is that the camera is 320 by 240! That alone is enough to derail your quest I am afraid.\n\nTake a look at this raspberry pi project on building your own camera set up. Though really any wireless camera setup should do. Using a Pi has the stand alone advantage. \n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6452,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tbm0115,2.1782824847157594,3.8134589853981136,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Replicator+ Experimental Extruder Filament Slipping Error,\"I'm experimenting with MakerBot's new \"\"Experimental Extruder\"\" which essentially opens their software (MakerBot Print) to change traditionally \"\"behind-the-scenes\"\" settings like retract rate/distance, nozzle diameter, etc.\n\nI am currently attempting to print with the following conditions:\n\n\n0.8mm nozzle (brass)\n0.6mm layer height\n2 shells\n5% infill\n212 °C-215 °C extruder temperature\nThe part is pretty much all an outer shell (see image)\n\n\n\n\nI know that the results of testing the Experimental Extruder with a larger nozzle often required a lower extrusion temperature and the retract rate/distance to be increased. While testing the Experimental Extruder, personally, I found success increasing the retract distance to 0.850mm.\n\nI know that this issue can be resolved by adjusting the extruder profile, but I'm continually running into issues with self-resolving \"\"Filament Slip\"\" errors which inevitably result in \"\"Filament Jam\"\" errors. So, I'm obviously not making adjustments to the correct settings.\n\nHere's the PrintMode file for reference:\n\n{\n \"\"version\"\": \"\"0.1.0\"\",\n \"\"name\"\": \"\"TBM0115 Draft 0.8mm Nozzle 0.6mm LH\"\",\n \"\"settings\"\": {\n \"\"brimsModelOffset\"\": 0.02,\n \"\"doBrims\"\": true,\n \"\"doRaft\"\": false,\n \"\"extruderProfiles>0>defaultTemperature\"\": 215,\n \"\"extruderProfiles>0>extrusionProfiles>bridges>feedrate\"\": 50,\n \"\"extruderProfiles>0>extrusionProfiles>floorSurfaceFills>fanSpeed\"\": 0.2,\n \"\"extruderProfiles>0>extrusionProfiles>floorSurfaceFills>feedrate\"\": 50,\n \"\"extruderProfiles>0>extrusionProfiles>roofSurfaceFills>feedrate\"\": 60,\n \"\"extruderProfiles>0>extrusionVolumeMultiplier\"\": 1,\n \"\"extruderProfiles>0>nozzleDiameter\"\": 0.8,\n \"\"floorThickness\"\": 1.2,\n \"\"layerHeight\"\": 0.6,\n \"\"maxSparseFillThickness\"\": 0.4,\n \"\"modelFillProfiles>sparse>density\"\": 0.05,\n \"\"modelFillProfiles>sparse>pattern\"\": \"\"linear\"\",\n \"\"extruderProfiles>0>retractDistance\"\": 0.9,\n \"\"extruderProfiles>0>restartExtraDistance\"\": 0.15,\n \"\"doFixedShellStart\"\": false,\n \"\"extruderProfiles>0>extrusionProfiles>outlines>feedrate\"\": 30,\n \"\"numberOfBrims\"\": 3,\n \"\"numberOfInternalBrims\"\": 3\n }\n}\n\n\",0scar,\"As the comment section doesn't allow to use too many characters, I've converted the comment into a proper answer.\n\nIn the question is stated that: \n\n\n ... results of testing the Experimental Extruder with a larger nozzle\n often required a lower extrusion temperature...\n\n\nThis is in contradiction with expectations. When the filament feed rate or volume increases, generally a higher temperature is required to heat up the filament because the resident time of the filament in the heatbreak and nozzle decreases. \n\nAs the filament heat up time is shortened by the increased feed rate you should either:\n\n\nincrease the temperature to get the filament center to also heat up. In fact, all your problems could be related to not heating up the filament too fast (filament jam or slip). When the center of the filament is not soft enough, it will be harder to push through the nozzle, hence the slip and the clogging, or\ndecrease the print speed, decreasing the print speed will increase the filament resident time.\n\n\nAs an example, a nozzle/layer height combo of respectively 0.4/0.3 lays down 4 mm³ per 100 mm, a 0.8/0.6 combo delivers about 30 mm³ for that same distance! This is a lot of heat that is dissipated and needs to be replenished. A reduction of print speed by a factor of 7.5 (30/4) will also address the increase in heat up time.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n8350,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tbm0115,2.1782824847157594,2.729972460763979,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,MakerBot JSON-RPC Command List,\"I'm currently trying to implement a data collector on my Replicator+ by utilizing JSON-RPC. Is there an official reference for this? MakerBot used to host a wiki site, but that seems to be gone for their \"\"troubleshooting\"\" pages.\n\",tbm0115,\"It took some digging, but I was able to start scripting a wrapper in C# for the RPC commands.\n\n\nC# Wrapper (MTConnect Implementation)\nUnofficial JSON-RPC Reference\n\n\nI still don't understand what every method does to the machine or necessarily what the results are, so a number of the methods are marked as obsolete until I can test them.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n8350,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tbm0115,2.1782824847157594,2.729972460763979,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,MakerBot JSON-RPC Command List,\"I'm currently trying to implement a data collector on my Replicator+ by utilizing JSON-RPC. Is there an official reference for this? MakerBot used to host a wiki site, but that seems to be gone for their \"\"troubleshooting\"\" pages.\n\",Trish,\"The Mystery of Makerbot-Wiki\n\nAccording to the Wayback machine, the wiki.makerbot.com went offline on 31st December 2012:\n\n\n Over the past three amazing years, MakerBot owners and enthusiasts around the world have shared knowledge with us and with each other. As we welcome thousands more MakerBot owners and users into the MakerBot family, we want to make sure that everyone always has the best information regarding our company and products, and that it's easily accessible.\n \n Here’s one thing we're doing to help: on December 31, as we close out the year, we will also turn off the lights at wiki.makerbot.com.\n \n The MakerBot wiki has served us well, but lately we've seen an increase in spam and a decline in community activity. Instead of continuing to maintain two separate sites, we're going to consolidate them.\n \n What that means is that, as of December 31st, the MakerBot wiki will no longer be available at this address. An archived version of the wiki as it stands today will be available at http://makerbot.com/support/archive and more former wiki content will be available at http://makerbot.com/support, which already hosts PDFs of some of the most useful Thing-O-Matic and Cupcake documentation. You may see some short periods of downtime as we finish moving this content.\n \n An archive of forum discussions will be available, but users seeking discussion with the incredibly knowledgable MakerBot community should head over to the MakerBot Operators Google Group. Requests for help and questions about MakerBot products should, as always, be sent to mailto:support@makerbot.com.\n \n Thanks for your contributions over the past few years to the MakerBot wiki. We hope you'll all continue to share your expertise with us and other MakerBot users for many years to come.\n\n\nBefore that, the makerbot wiki did tell that the Documentations had been moved:\n\n\n Note\n This wiki is intended for historical MakerBot documentation and community-supported projects. The new home for MakerBot documentation is http://www.makerbot.com/docs/\n\n\n\n\nJSON-RPC\n\nThere is a late 2013/early 2014 github that seems to work on the JSON-RPC and which might help - and still showed some activity past the lockup of the wiki.makerbot.com. It is only very poorly documented. The earliest activity was in 2012 with the main bulk in 2013.\n\nThe JSON project predates the start of work on the makerbot-gen5-api in 2014. This might mean that it might be documented there to some degree, But it might also be present in the generation 4 API.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8421,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tbm0115,2.8153892694839717,3.4943961588206536,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Replicator+ Motherboard Model,\"What is the make/model of a MakerBot Replicator+ motherboard? \n\nI'm assuming that the make is now MakerBot since they are now closed-source.\n\",Greenonline,\"It might be this board, MakerBot 5th Generation motherboard, (original image)\n\n\n\nThe image was very small, so it is rather blurry, I'm afraid.\n\nI have contacted the suppliers for confirmation, and will update this answer, when/if I get a reply.\n\nHowever, according to this eBay item, Makerbot Replicator Motherboard Carriage, it could be inferred1 that the same motherboard (MP6292) is used in the Fifth Generation and the Replicator+ \n\n\n This part is the aluminum carriage that attaches the main board to the\n printer frame.\n \n Compatible with Makerbot Replicator Fifth Generation (5th Gen) and\n Replicator+ (Plus).\n \n NOTE: Motherboard show here is for illustration purposes only!\n Motherboard (MP6292) is NOT included.\n \n Main board presses right onto the carriage. No special tools are\n needed for assembly. Retaining screw is included.\n\n\n\n\nA much clearer shot of the MP6292 Motherboard\n\n\n\n\n\n1 However, that depends on whether you want to trust eBay descriptions.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n365,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mark,3.9045305118418514,5.626414367312675,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,4.376800063013361,3.9829738809469584,Why is CLIP so much faster than SLA?,\"Stereolithography produces parts by projecting ultraviolet light on the top of a vat of liquid photopolymer, causing it to harden. CLIP produces parts by projecting ultraviolet light through the bottom of a vat of liquid photopolymer, causing it to harden. This seems like a minor difference, yet CLIP is reportedly much faster (I've seen numbers as high as 100x). Why is this?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"It's important to understand what specifically is being compared. CLIP is much faster than bottom-up technologies that require a peel step between every layer. For example, the Form1 galvo SLA printer tilts the resin vat to separate the transparent bottom from the print. That is, by far, the slowest part of SLA/DLP printing with most modern light sources. Where the speed comes in is that without a peel, a continuous \"\"movie\"\" can be used to cure the resin rather than a series of alternating images and peels. \n\nTop-down printers can print dramatically faster than bottom-up-and-peel printers. CLIP is not necessarily faster than top-down. For example, the Gizmo 3D line of top-down printers are very similar in print speed to CLIP. (http://www.gizmo3dprinters.com.au/)\n\nMost \"\"consumer\"\" SLA printers these days use bottom-up-and-peel techniques, because this has some practical advantages over top-down printers:\n\n\nWay less resin is required to fill the printer when the part is pulled out as it builds rather than being lowered into the tank (along with the Z stage) as it builds. Resin is expensive. This also means bottom up printers can be smaller and have fewer mechanical parts such as leveling devices submerged in resin. \nStandard resins contain an inhibitor chemical that prevents polymerization in the presence of oxygen, which causes the surface layer exposed to air (and low-level stray light) to not cure. So top-down printers must shoot light through a non-curing layer before reaching curable resin. This makes the tuning more sensitive and can somewhat reduce detail compared to a bottom-up printer curing right on the window.\nReplacement vats or windows for bottom-up printers may be seen by manufacturers as a profit-generating consumable, since they have to be replaced somewhat frequently.\nTop-down printers have to worry somewhat more about resin flow rates as the part is lowered. Air bubbles may be pulled into the resin or the fresh resin layer above the part may vary significantly in thickness if the part is submerged too fast for the resin viscosity. (Admittedly, bottom-up printers will experience excessive suction forces and potentially break off bits of the print at high peel speeds.)\n\n\nCLIP is a bottom-up technique that doesn't require a peel step, because the vat creates an oxygen layer over the window that keeps the resin from curing directly on the surface and sticking. In that way, it arguably performs more like a top-down printer than a bottom-up printer. \n\nTop-down printers that are designed to overcome the above issues and use high-intensity light sources can achieve exceptionally high print speeds. This includes similar \"\"continuous\"\" build techniques used as in CLIP.\n\",3.7511513460834345,2.0769199823829045\n365,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mark,3.9045305118418514,5.626414367312675,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,4.376800063013361,3.9829738809469584,Why is CLIP so much faster than SLA?,\"Stereolithography produces parts by projecting ultraviolet light on the top of a vat of liquid photopolymer, causing it to harden. CLIP produces parts by projecting ultraviolet light through the bottom of a vat of liquid photopolymer, causing it to harden. This seems like a minor difference, yet CLIP is reportedly much faster (I've seen numbers as high as 100x). Why is this?\n\",taskman,\"The number of 100x could be true in some situations. I wish I could see the part(s) that they printed to measure this 100x, but that is another story. \n\nLooking at their videos they can move the build plate at a maximum speed of 10mm per minute. You will see the Eiffel tower video where they have to change over to standard speed for flat layers. It is because the flat layers stop resin flow and can't be printed using continuous printing.\n\nProdways have shown that they can move it at 20mm per minute, but again there are things that are not advertised/mentioned. To achieve higher speeds you need to make the resins more reactive. Making resins more reactive means the resins won't last as long in the vat/bottle. So they expire sooner. It also means they could harden under normal light conditions so it makes it difficult to work with. If you look at the Prodways video you will see resin waste on the build plate. That shows that the projector brightness was set too high.\n\nGizmo can print between 5 and 25 times faster than a leading brand of SLA printers, also depends on the number of parts and complexity on the build plate. The decision was made to advertise the build plate moving speed, e.g. 3mm per minute, rather than the number of times faster than anything else, because that is a value that doesn't change with the number of items on the build plate, but it does change depending on the projection area size.\n\nImagine you just have a single line going upwards then most SLA printers could do it at the same speed. B9 Creator (bottom up) users have actually shown they can do continuous printing when printing really tiny items with very thin walls, because they don't have suction problems in those situations.\n\nNow when you add many small objects with small features on the build plate DLP printers will display the full layer in one go where laser based SLA machines need to draw out each part like an FDM machine.\n\nContinuous printing does have limitations. Resin needs to flow from the bottom or you will get resin starvation and cause holes so you might not be able to use it for everything. You should see it as another tool in your printing toolbox rather than the be all and end all.\n\nSo after all that, the 100x depends on so many things, you shouldn't get stuck at looking at that number other than knowing it is a way of marketing the printers.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n369,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,iOSDev,3.267423727073639,5.454998441360122,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.8086301675739853,How to edit Cura profile in Octoprint?,\"In Cura, I can edit my .ini profile settings as needed, for example, when I change filament or models. It's annoying to have to edit the profile on another computer and update it on my Pi just to change the infill, etc. I've searched http://plugins.octoprint.org/ and can't find any plugins that do this.\n\",thopiekar,\"There is an import function.\nhttps://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/wiki/Plugin:-Cura\n\nBtw. now in Cura 2.1 you'll also need to reimport your .ini.\n\nRegards :)\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n369,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,iOSDev,3.267423727073639,5.454998441360122,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.8086301675739853,How to edit Cura profile in Octoprint?,\"In Cura, I can edit my .ini profile settings as needed, for example, when I change filament or models. It's annoying to have to edit the profile on another computer and update it on my Pi just to change the infill, etc. I've searched http://plugins.octoprint.org/ and can't find any plugins that do this.\n\",SimpleSi,\"You can manually edit the .profile by using an SSH terminal program (e.g putty) to log into your Pi\n\nThen cd ./octoprint/slicingProfiles\n\nls to see folders (on mine I see cura)\ncd cura \nls to see profile files e.g fred.profile\nsudo nano fred.profile\n\nmove down to where you can see the slicing parameters and edit away\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n372,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Samveen,3.267423727073639,3.7705035314952084,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Maintaining fine details while applying smoothing methods,\"I've been reading and experimenting with Acetone vapour smoothing on some printed ABS parts. My problem is that I need to selectively smoothen the printed parts which vapor smoothing doesn't allow. In particular, the cogs, whose sides I was trying to make smooth ended, up with smooth rounded tips, which was a disappointment.\n\nAn example of what I was trying to smoothen is would be something like this: \n\nSo how can I maintain fine details (like the cog tips in the image above) while applying smoothing methods to printed parts? \n\",Asa D DeBuck,\"A technique I've used in the past is to make a acetone slurry of the same filament used to print your object, and carefully paint the details you need to smooth. You must be careful and only do a very thin coat or you may damage your print. You can add extra coat if needed to make sure the acetone has evaporatored from the previous coat of ABS filaments slurry.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n3841,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Samveen,3.267423727073639,3.8186436911337327,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,Weight Reducing Design Change for Extruder Driver,\"I'm considering removing the driver motor from the extruder assembly, and placing it on a stationary mount point instead, and then using a flex-shaft type connector from the motor to the extruder assembly to actually drive the extruder. The motivation for this change is to reduce the overall weight of the extruder driver and hot end assembly, allowing for quicker movement of the carriage on it's associated axis(one of X,Y).\n\nWould it be better to run a pair of drivers (one for each direction) to manage reversing the filament pressure or would it be better to use just one driver and reverse the motor as usual?\n\",Diesel,\"Very cool idea, \n\nOne motor would definitely be more than capable of producing the required torques even through a flexshaft connector. For any normal sized 3D-printer the torques required, and the speeds you'll need for rapid response are well within the capabilities of any off-the-shelf stepper motor. \n\nJust a note on the idea though, with a normal, 'rigid', connection there is essentially no winding or unwinding, and only the backlash between the gears and the filament to consider, and that is effectively zero. With a flex-shaft though, the stack-up of twists and flexing will be much greater. The system will require more rotations at the source to effect the same amount of torque at the end effector as the flex shaft flexes and bends under the load. For tiny torques with short flex shafts, this wont be an issue as filament pressure is pretty minimal. But if you scale up this project or start working at much higher speeds, you may run into some issues with this design. \n\nI have no idea how big or fast you'd need to be working at for this to begin to become a problem. I'm imagining pretty big though. Just something you might want to keep in mind if you try turning this into a huge, super fast 3D-printer.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n3841,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Samveen,3.267423727073639,3.8186436911337327,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,Weight Reducing Design Change for Extruder Driver,\"I'm considering removing the driver motor from the extruder assembly, and placing it on a stationary mount point instead, and then using a flex-shaft type connector from the motor to the extruder assembly to actually drive the extruder. The motivation for this change is to reduce the overall weight of the extruder driver and hot end assembly, allowing for quicker movement of the carriage on it's associated axis(one of X,Y).\n\nWould it be better to run a pair of drivers (one for each direction) to manage reversing the filament pressure or would it be better to use just one driver and reverse the motor as usual?\n\",ctag,\"If you're talking about a common 3D printer stepper motor and driver, then one driver is perfectly capable of driving the motor both forward and backward.\n\nThe flex tube setup you describe sounds like a Bowden extruder.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3842,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Samveen,2.528907649931287,4.540596338014611,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Reprap variants with servo motors rather than stepper motors?,\"In a discussion about motors with a friend who used to work in the robotics industry, he told me that he despised stepper motor systems, as every stepper based system he had worked on required a bunch of hacky software fixes to make the system perform to the required level.\n\nHe said that servo motor based systems had their own foibles, but at least they could generally be tuned out and you always knew that if the encoder said you were in a given place then you would be (to within the constraints of the backlash compensation).\n\nBecause of this, I was wondering if there were any options for using brushless DC motors + encoders + drive electronics instead of steppers + drive electronics. \n\",Fab-B,\"I think using these technologies is possible, and may be better than stepper motors, but by using these you loose the main advantages of the steppers : the simplicity and the cost.\n\nWhen you use steppers, you assume your motors are strong enough to don't loose any step, and you \"\"just\"\" command them. Steppers are not so expensive and are compacts, so your 3D printer is \"\"simple\"\".\n\nIf you use separated motors and encoders, you can do better job, but your 3D printer will be a lot more expensive, harder to tune, and harder to program.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3842,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Samveen,2.528907649931287,4.540596338014611,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Reprap variants with servo motors rather than stepper motors?,\"In a discussion about motors with a friend who used to work in the robotics industry, he told me that he despised stepper motor systems, as every stepper based system he had worked on required a bunch of hacky software fixes to make the system perform to the required level.\n\nHe said that servo motor based systems had their own foibles, but at least they could generally be tuned out and you always knew that if the encoder said you were in a given place then you would be (to within the constraints of the backlash compensation).\n\nBecause of this, I was wondering if there were any options for using brushless DC motors + encoders + drive electronics instead of steppers + drive electronics. \n\",Ecnerwal,\"You can get \"\"stepper replacement\"\" servo drives that supposedly put all the needed control in the drive, and accept ordinary stepper inputs. Those should make the servo-drive a \"\"drop-in\"\" option on anything that uses stepper drives.\n\nThat said, I've seen an affordable CNC router system based on steppers turned into a much more expensive system based on servos, and I still have the \"\"obsolete\"\" stepper version, as the servo based system is MUCH more expensive and I could not keep up with the \"\"upgrades\"\" and never would have bought it at the price it now goes for. I'm in fact considering changing that to a reprap control system (still as a router, not as a printer, as I currently think.)\n\nGiven some practical limits to printhead speed in additive 3D printing based on the material solidifying, there may not be a lot of benefit in the considerable added expense of servos. They can move faster, but how much of that will translate to actually printing faster? How fast can you melt and pump plastic and have it stay where you put it?\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n7186,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Samveen,2.528907649931287,3.697472914088804,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.749318730431847,4.208576161768494,Hemispherical Bowl : how is it possible?,\"I was reading up about how to extrusion print an overhang greater than 45 degrees, when something weird stuck me.\n\nI see lots and lots of 3D extrusion printed bowls that have perfectly printed hemispherical surfaces. However, given that there is some deformation expected as part of the print process, how is it possible to get a perfect hemispherical bowl - where both inner and outer surfaces are perfectly hemispherical?\n\nNote: I am not talking about surface smoothness, but about the shape of the bowl itself. I understand that surface smoothing will make the bowl look great, but it will not fix a deformation in the shape of a print.\n\",Trish,\"There are several factors playing together. For example orientation, printer & slicer settings and more.\n\nReminder\n\nFirst of all, not all overhangs of greater than 45° need support. Many printers manage up to 60°, even 70° is not unheard of - with the right settings. Pretty much all printers manage tiny 90° overhangs.\n\nU-Bowls (open side up)\n\nLet's look at bowls that shape like a U - the dome is at the bottom. With a flat contact surface only the next areas need support, and with PVA or other easily removable support structures on the rise, it is no problem to use support and leave no trace. With support, there is no sagging, so the bowl gets its \"\"perfect\"\" look even though there are overhangs and support used.\n\nn-bowls (open side down)\n\nThe other way around - dome on top - is probably the more \"\"smooth\"\" one, using different tricks to get it set.\n\nThe outer wall now sits on the infill like the inner we had before, perfect, but we used that for the inner wall before. But what about the inner one?! Well, we need no support for the sides till we reach, let's say 55° angle. Can we go further without support? Yes... if we are tricksy!\n\n\nPrint the walls from the center to the outer wall, as then the inner walls stand on the lower layer and can hold the new, neighboring, floating wall\nHave more than 2 walls! Why? Well, simple math: You go up by $z$, and out by $(n-1)\\times d$ where $n$ is the number of walls. We have a maximum overhang angle of $\\tan^{-1}(z^{-2}\\times((n-0.5)\\times d)^2)$ before our walls don't stand on the wall below by more than a half wall. As one can see, $z$ and $d$ are fixed in that calculation while a higher factor $n$ directly increases the value of the angle. As long as there is support for the wall (like the neighboring, already printed wall), you get some kind of dome.\nPrint thinner layers. If you decrease $z$, you also increase the maximum angle that has one wall standing on half a supporting wall.\nPrint slow. Printing slower allows the material to cool and harden while still somewhat held up by the cohesion to the filament that comes from the nozzle. This can support a higher overhang angle.\nCooling. Together with slow printing, you might want to use an extra strong cooling solution to speed up the solidification. Aim well.\nPrint narrow1 domes. Why is it much easier to print more narrow domes than wider domes? Part of the answer is how much geometry does not need to be supported by itself, another part is the weight of the full structure: A narrow dome spans a smaller distance. This means it has less area of a high angle to the last layer, and the overhangs, in general, are shorter. This can result in better printing.\n\n\n\n\n1 What counts as narrow is printer and filament dependent. It is no problem to print small spherical hollows in a print if they are just small enough as the overhang then is just short enough so it can carry itself. At some point it gets too much though.\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n7224,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Samveen,1.726248027126092,2.704143814960767,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,Knotted String as Replacement for Toothed Belt,\"I'm at a location where I don't have easy access to toothed belts for my printer (a RepRap Wallace). While trying to look for some solution, I saw some talk of using fishing line as a belt, along with a log of admonitions of Don't.\n\nHowever, as I have easy access to fishing line, but almost no access to a toothed belt, I was thinking of using multiple strands of fishing line with regularly spaced knots to simulate a toothed belt. However, Google didn't help much with either usage or possible Gotchas.\n\nIs there any possible issues that I may face with this solution?\n\",cmm,\"If you are using fishing line, it would perhaps work to wrap the line around the pully and fastening it to the pully (both ends), so that the line wraps around the pully. One side would play out from the pully while the other was wrapping around it.\n\nBy attaching the ends of the line to the pully, there will be no slippage between the line and the pully. The knots aren't needed, and their irregularity won't affect the print quality. The problem will be if and when the fishing line wraps tightly over itself and jams. This can be mitigated a bit by having the two ends on opposite sides of the pully, and perhaps adding guide wires to direct the line to the proper side.\n\nUsually, mechanisms like this involve good control of the wrapping and unwrapping, but this might work well enough to print a new pully.\n\nThin aircraft cable might be a good alternative to fishing line.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7224,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Samveen,1.726248027126092,2.704143814960767,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,Knotted String as Replacement for Toothed Belt,\"I'm at a location where I don't have easy access to toothed belts for my printer (a RepRap Wallace). While trying to look for some solution, I saw some talk of using fishing line as a belt, along with a log of admonitions of Don't.\n\nHowever, as I have easy access to fishing line, but almost no access to a toothed belt, I was thinking of using multiple strands of fishing line with regularly spaced knots to simulate a toothed belt. However, Google didn't help much with either usage or possible Gotchas.\n\nIs there any possible issues that I may face with this solution?\n\",Verl Humpherys,\"I’m going to recommend not using a fishing line with knots. Probably the biggest problem you’ll have using the fishing line with knots is if the knots are not perfectly spaced, movement along the X or Y axis is not going to be consistent. This could result in weird deformations in your print.\n\nDepending on how you tie the knots they may not grip the teeth of the gears quite well enough to prevent slippage. \n\nBoth of these issues will mean that you will not get very good quality prints assuming the print doesn’t outright fail.\n\nYou would be better off waiting to get the correct belt then attempting to use fishing line. \n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n7344,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Samveen,2.1782824847157594,3.7005487749244255,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Good alternative to HDPE for FDM,\"A while back, I had worked on building a Yostwerks Sea Cruiser. Now I'm thinking of trying to create a 3D printable (or 3D millable) version of the plans.\n\nThe original design uses cross-sections cut from a half-inch thick HDPE sheet. However, I am considering changing this out for one of the easier to print materials, but I cannot find any comparative information about stiffness HDPE versus other 3D printing materials.\n\nCan I get a suggestion for a alternative to HDPE that is as stiff or stiffer as well as same density or lighter. The Kayak frame is expected to be compressing the cross-sections.\n\nAn example set of cross-sections is as below:\n\n\nPlease note that I have also considering changing the shape of the cross-sections to make stiffer yet lighter cross sections, but that will require some trade-off between portable sized cross-sections versus the stiffness of the cross-sections.\n\",0scar,\"Because of the inherent nature of FDM, material properties will most certainly be always lower than casted/extruded sheet material. Furthermore, your question implies to use the same geometry of the ribs, I doubt whether there will be a filament that is able to get close to your requirements regarding strength and stiffness (for the same geometry). Your best choice for filament would be a high strength filament type like PC, certain co-polyester and ABS. But, I'm more inclined to say that this whole question is more of a design issues rather than material selection issue. For that reason I struggled to vote to close as being off topic for this site. In aerospace engineering t-stiffeners are used to make panels, e.g. wing or hull sections, more stiff by riveting T-profile shaped aluminium stiffeners onto the panels, this is something you could consider (bolt on aluminium profiles), as well as incorporating these stiff ridges directly printed in your design, but that would change the shape of the ribs.\n\",0.0,0.0\n7344,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Samveen,2.1782824847157594,3.7005487749244255,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Good alternative to HDPE for FDM,\"A while back, I had worked on building a Yostwerks Sea Cruiser. Now I'm thinking of trying to create a 3D printable (or 3D millable) version of the plans.\n\nThe original design uses cross-sections cut from a half-inch thick HDPE sheet. However, I am considering changing this out for one of the easier to print materials, but I cannot find any comparative information about stiffness HDPE versus other 3D printing materials.\n\nCan I get a suggestion for a alternative to HDPE that is as stiff or stiffer as well as same density or lighter. The Kayak frame is expected to be compressing the cross-sections.\n\nAn example set of cross-sections is as below:\n\n\nPlease note that I have also considering changing the shape of the cross-sections to make stiffer yet lighter cross sections, but that will require some trade-off between portable sized cross-sections versus the stiffness of the cross-sections.\n\",mbuc91,\"According to the chart on this page HDPE has a flexural modulus of between 0.75 and 1.575 Gpa; meanwhile PETG has a flexural modulus of 2.20 Gpa, meaning PETG is the stiffer material.\n\nHDPE, by definition, has a density greater than 0.941g/cc. PETG has a density of about 1.25g/cc.\n\nSo while PETG may be denser (depending on the HDPE used), it is more rigid, while not being too rigid.\n\nPETG is quite printable using FDM. If you were printing at a higher temperature and high % infill, I could see it holding up well enough. I've printed heavy duty parts with it using a 0.8mm nozzle.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n388,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kamuro,3.267423727073639,3.4199815613998,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,\"Taking a new hotend into operation (cleaning, forming, etc)\",\"When installing and using a new hotend for the first time, which steps of action should be taken before. This will probably be more applicable to chinese clones than to authentic products (is the statement true?): Should a certain cleaning procedure be carried out (removing swarf/shavings for example)? Should mechanical precision be controlled and if necessary improved (de-edging and nozzle size are two things I could think of)?\n\nI know the topic How should I clean my extruder when changing materials?, which is a nice addon read, but I am concerned about brand-new extruders.\n\",TextGeek,\"I haven't done anything special to set up mine. But it's probably worth doing a general cleaning. I'd swab it off with alcohol, including running a q-tip or similar inside the fiber feed path. Then blow out the nozzle with compressed air to make sure it's clear.\n\nYou could measure the nozzle diameter by fitting fine drill bits in to see which is the largest one the passes through freely. Be sure to measure how much fiber your extruder really takes in when you ask it to extrude a certain length -- but that's about the extruder, not the hotend per se.\n\nFinally, I'd check the insulation, if any. I got a couple hot ends that had big gaps in/around the insulation. I've found that \"\"high-temperature gasket maker\"\" is great for improving insulation (depends, of course, on the shape and design of the specific hot end.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n388,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kamuro,3.267423727073639,3.4199815613998,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,\"Taking a new hotend into operation (cleaning, forming, etc)\",\"When installing and using a new hotend for the first time, which steps of action should be taken before. This will probably be more applicable to chinese clones than to authentic products (is the statement true?): Should a certain cleaning procedure be carried out (removing swarf/shavings for example)? Should mechanical precision be controlled and if necessary improved (de-edging and nozzle size are two things I could think of)?\n\nI know the topic How should I clean my extruder when changing materials?, which is a nice addon read, but I am concerned about brand-new extruders.\n\",kamuro,\"So far, these are my experiences to make a new hotend work properly.\n\n\nRead the instructions. The ones of the 'original' if it is a clone.\nCheck the parts. Is everything included you need?\nand check the design, if it is a clone. It might not be the same as the one they're trying to copy. Figure out the differences (as far as I encountered mainly the heatbreak/inliner design)\nThere is no immediate need to mechanically check the nozzle if it passes an optical check. You will be calibrating the extrusion anyway and unless you're unhappy with the results, there are most likely more severe impacts than the accuracy of the nozzle diameter.\nCleaning should be done to some extent. You wouldn't want any visible leftover products from the hotend's production in the extrusion path. Anything that you can't see will most likely be removed easily by the filament and should only be a problem when there are other more significant flaws.\nYou maybe want to install a heatbreak into the heatsink with lots of thermal paste to transfer the heat as effectively as possible. A defined and short meltzone is key for reliable operation.\nYou also maybe want to add some thermal paste for the thermistor/thermocouple to ensure quick heat transfer here.\nYou maybe want to insulate your hotend thermally to not lose heat by dissipation. I asked a question about that process here: Efficient and easy way to thermally insulate the heat block of the hotend?\nTest whether the filament is easily guided into the heatbreak, so that it doesn't stop being extruded by catching an edge or deforming over one.\nCheck the two valuable answers of TextGeek and Dimitri Modderman, there's good information in them!\n\n\nThis answer is most likely not complete and totally up for discussion. I appreciate any addtional answers and comments to improve on the topic!\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n603,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kamuro,3.0576060275493275,4.800168630619395,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Using an Arduino Mega with burnt voltage regulator,\"Due to a not-given compatibility with Makerbot mechanical endstop wiring (and carelessness on my side) I ended up burning the voltage regulator on my Arduino Mega 2560. Now, powering the Arduino separately from a USB power supply, I can operate the electronics, however, I am still unable to receive any signal from the endstops and I don't want to hook up my replacement Arduino until I see that my wiring is correct.\n\nCould I have burnt anything else on either the Arduino (pullup resistors were firmware disabled) or the RAMPS 1.4 which makes it impossible to receive a singal from the endstops?\n\",tbm0115,\"Take a look at Ryan's answer to my question. I believe the MightBoard is based on the Mega 2560, so it is possible that some of the other components could have been damaged. If you look at the comments below Ryan's answer, we discussed the possibility of the processor itself being damaged. I had attempted this fix on two different MightBoards and they both ended up turning on, but the firmware wouldn't boot. So, it's safe to say that in my case, the processor on the Arduino was shot.\n\nAll and all, I'd recommend not using MakerBot's endstops as they seem to be the main culprit for this issue and has been for years (it happened to me twice since I got my machine in 2012).\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n623,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kamuro,3.618048892289167,5.329512032534289,2.7799718631987322,2.011441651225199,4.240216107868139,4.7596040015155525,Real life stepper speed,\"I am wondering about the speed that my steppers should achieve in regular operation and what the determining factors are, from theoretical hardware facts/limits to software limitations that can influence performance.\n\nI do know about the basic properties of stepper motors such as the torque relation with speed, which I read some while ago from this source (for anyont stumbling into this question later):\nhttps://www.geckodrive.com/gecko/images/cms_files/Step%20Motor%20Basics%20Guide.pdf\n\nSo far Wikipedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stepper_motor) easily turns up the following statements with regard to my question:\n\n\n Thus when controlled by an L/R drive, the maximum speed of a stepper\n motor is limited by its inductance since at some speed, the voltage U\n will be changing faster than the current I can keep up.\n\n\nand for chopper drivers:\n\n\n This requires additional electronics to sense winding currents, and\n control the switching, but it allows stepper motors to be driven with\n higher torque at higher speeds than L/R drives\n\n\nObviously the amount of steps/revelation will change the speed, too\n\nHowever, all this does not help me to determine what the real life speed of my stepper should be. Additional firmware parameters clutter up my (beginner's) brain even more (and I haven't had a too deep dive into that yet).\nIn general I understand that the frequency we use to send the steps to the stepper is the main determining factor, also 'reduced' by microstepping, if applied. We cannot keep the current up as much as needed due to timing/inductive/electronic properties of the motors, so we lose torque or finally steps. A higher voltage helps to bring the current up faster, so the steepness of the current increase can also limit the maximum applicable frequency. The frequency itself is given from the controller board to the motor driver, hence is set in firmware.\n\nAll in all, apart from what makes sense to utilize in a 3D printer setup, what are the determining factors of the stepper speeds that can be realized and how to they transform into real life values for our printers? Also I'd be interested in how the determining factors influence the reliability and print quality regardless of the mechanical difficulties that arise with print-speed.\n\n/edit:\nI found these to exist on electroncs SE:\nhttps://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/71270/maximum-speed-of-stepper-motor \nhttps://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/129064/slow-down-stepper-motors-speed-using-stepper-driver-drv-8825\n\nHowever, I think the question here is relevant and specific enough for 3D printing to exist here alongside.\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"The four main motor speed limits in a 3d printer are:\n\n\nFirmware step generation frequency limits\nFirmware motion planner effects\nLoss of torque and precision due to motor coil inductance and back-EMF effects\nMid-band resonance\n\n\nStep generation rate limits will depend on the firmware and controller board used. There is a significant range, particularly when 32bit firmwares and RTOS-based platforms like MachineKit are compared to 8bit firmwares running on Atmega AVRs. Some examples:\n\n\nMarlin on a 16 MHz 8bit Atmega can only run the stepper interrupt at 10,000 hz without bogging down the processor and blocking other critical algorithms (like motion planning). It can fire step rates up to 40,000 hz by pulsing the step line two or four times per interrupt, which effectively drops the microstep level in software and runs the motors rougher/louder. \nRepetier on the same Atmega can run the stepper interrupt at 12,000 hz, because it is optimized more for execution speed than Marlin.\nRepetier on an 84 MHz 32bit ARM Cortex-M3 can run the stepper interrupt at 80,000 Hz.\n\n\nThese limits typically only affect actual stepper speed when relatively fine microstepping is used. Consider an example based on a very typical Marlin printer configuration. Microstepping of at least 1/4 is strongly recommended to avoid resonance issues, so let's start with 1/16 stepping. This allows quad-stepping to effectively output 1/4-steps. Starting with finer microstepping will drop our top speed, and coarser microstepping will be louder and may encounter resonance, so this is a good starting point. Then asssume a typical 32mm-per-rev pulley on a 1.8 degree (200 steps/rev) stepper motor. This system has a resolution of 200*16/32= 100 steps/mm. At 40,000 Hz total stepping rate (quad-stepping at 10,000 Hz) we can theoretically travel at 400 mm/s before hitting Marlin's hard cap. That's probably going to be a higher RPM than we want to run the motor anyway, so it's not a very impactful limit. \n\nIn comparison, if we started at 1/128 stepping (such as with the THB6128 driver chip) our top speed with 8bit Marlin would be 50 mm/s. That's quite slow. \n\nFirmware motion planners can further limits motor speed by ramping up and down to traverse turns and corners. If the model geometry has lots of sharp turns, the target speeds commanded by the gcode are likely to never actually be reached. Only long, straight line paths will have enough ramping time to hit the speed target. You can see this yourself by printing a very small model at a variety of feedrates and timing the actual print duration: at a certain point, increases in the commanded speed will make no difference on actual print times.\n\nAnother constraint some firmwares enforce is requiring the ability to safely decelerate to a stop within the length of all the motion commands in the planner queue. This allows the printer to gracefully handle a sudden loss of input, such as as if the host computer stops transmitting USB commands, or if the SD card experiences a series of read errors. If the printer just abruptly stops from full speed when it runs out of commands, it is likely to lose position and ruin the print. Whereas if it can decelerate to a safe stopping speed, it may be able to resume after the command stream resumes. \n\nIn terms of actual motor behavior, the inductance and back-EMF introduce significant limits because they decrease motor torque at higher RPMs. This produces a torque/RPM curve that drops off at higher speeds:\n\n\nhttp://www.geckodrive.com/support/step-motor-basics.html\n\nNote in the picture that there is a flat \"\"constant current\"\" region on the left side at low speeds. This is the range where the chopping driver is limiting coil current. On the right side of the curve, current is not able to reach the target before it must be switched back off for the next step. That reduces field strength and thus torque.\n\nThere are two separate effects to consider here:\n\n\nMotor coils are inductors, which means there is a first-order lag between applied voltage and coil current. A standard bipolar stepper motor with a microstepping driver must raise the coil current from zero to max or from max to zero every full step (eg every sixteen 1/16th microsteps). At high step rates, there is not enough time to fully charge the coil to its max current before the next step requires dropping the current back down. Without developing full coil current on each step, torque is lost. \nEvery motor is also a generator, and spinning the rotor generates back-EMF voltage within the motor coils. That voltage waveform gets overlaid on top of the drive voltage waveform with a phase shift dependent on the rotor position relative to the coil energization position. In simple terms, this voltage attempts to brake the motor: it always does whatever will slow the motor down. This means it opposes the applied drive voltage when the motor is applying forward torque, or assists the applied drive voltage when the motor is applying brake torque. \n\n\nFor a practical discussion of speed limits, we can simplify the situation by assuming back-EMF voltage opposes the drive voltage applied to the coils. This means there is less effective voltage raising/lowering coil current, and it takes longer for the current to change, and less coil current is developed than would be the case without back-emf. This further depresses the torque/RPM curve of the motor. And when the back-EMF voltage is around the same magnitude as the drive voltage, significant motor instability can result because of complex feedback effects between rotor position and effective coil voltage. \n\nYou can play with these effects using different motor configurations and speeds for a few popular 3D printer stepper drivers using my stepper driver simulator: https://github.com/rcarlyle/StepperSim \n\nIn closed-loop applications with position feedback and high-end drivers that can damp various instability modes, it may be ok to run the stepper all the way down the torque curve at very high RPMs. In more typical open-loop 3D printer applications, it's generally best to stick to the low-RPM part of the torque curve before inductance and back-EMF really take over the motor behavior. Losing too much torque can easily mean skipping steps and losing position, ruining the print. \n\nAnother important effect for steppers is mid-band resonance. This is not a normal mechanical resonance, but actually an electromechanical resonance effect. It's quite complicated, but the short explanation is that a stepper has an intrinsic 90-degree phase shift between position and torque, and when speeds rise to a point where coil inductance introduces an additional 90-degree phase shift between coil current and applied voltage, the electromechanical system has a highly-unstable 180-degree phase lag and thus creates a negative feedback loop. This can rapidly drop motor torque until the motor loses synchronicity with the driver's applied voltage and stalls.\n\nMid-band resonance only occurs when coil current is limited by inductance. It cannot occur in the constant-current drive range because there is not enough phase lag between applied voltage and coil current.\n\n\nhttp://www.geckodrive.com/support/step-motor-basics.html\n\nUnfortunately, measured torque curves available from manufacturers almost never show resonance zones, because the curves are produced by loading motors with friction-brakes that damp any kind of resonance effect from building. Whereas a 3D printer drivetrain load is almost entirely inertial (accelerating a mass) which is much more prone to resonance.\n\nHigh-end drivers can automatically detect and damp mid-band resonance, but typical low-cost 3D printer drivers do not have this capability. \n\nIt is generally prudent to avoid entering an RPM range where mid-band resonance may occur. This is easily accomplished by sticking to the left side of the torque curve, in the constant-current operating region. This ensures high torque and good stability. \n\nFor a concrete example, consider the popular Kysan 1124090 stepper with a 24v power supply. \n\n\nhttps://ultimachine.com/content/kysan-1124090-nema-17-stepper-motor\n\nTo maintain high torque and avoid mid-band resonance, we would want to keep the RPM to about 400 or less. For the same 32mm-per-rev pulley mentioned above, that would limit speeds to around 200-240 mm/s. Higher speeds are possible, but may encounter reliability issues. \n\nThis speed, of course, assumes a 24v PSU is used, to match the measured torque curve: a 12v PSU would have a significantly lower top speed before inductance starts to limit coil current, around half as fast. Higher supply voltage greatly increases the top effective speed for the motor.\n\nAgain, you can easily simulate this effect (using https://github.com/rcarlyle/StepperSim). This simulator output chart shows how inductance and back-EMF are keeping coil current from reaching the target:\n\n\n\nFor practical drivetrain design, a motor/driver simulator is really the best tool in the toolbox for finding the point where performance will start to degrade due to inability to hit current targets. It's simply too complex to apply simple equations or rules of thumb with any accuracy. These electrical effects and the firmware step generation limits are likely to be the two main restrictions on motor speed for most printers. \n\nOf course, how fast you can melt plastic will tend to limit printing speeds significantly below the true motor speed limits, but that's a different discussion. For the moment, we can simply say that top motor speed tends to be unimportant for print moves in typical Cartesian printers. However, there are a few instances where they are likely to drive printer performance:\n\n\nLinear Deltas, where carriages may need to run several times faster than the effector for certain move directions\nGeared extruders with high reduction ratio (eg much over 5:1) for high retraction speeds\nShort-pitch lead screws (or all-thread) that need high rotation speeds to achieve moderate linear speeds\n\n\",3.6340916038470805,2.0769199823829045\n726,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kamuro,2.1782824847157594,3.989201467243909,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Threaded rods to create frame/axis connection. Which improvements can be made and are they needed?,\"I am building what I dub Frankenstein's printer from various components I could find in the electronics dumpster to print the proteins for a P3 Steel (toolson edition).\n\nI want to elevate a scanner bed with an attached DVD drive motor for X-Y movements of the hotend. I plan to connect this by threaded rods to a base that also hosts the heated bed on a stury z-axis mechanism. To make this as stable as possible, I plan to conncect M8 threaded rods in the 8 edges in wooden blocks.\n\nI am planning on 4 vertical rods and 2 crossing rods along the diagonals of the backside of the system. Additionally each side is planned to have one diagonal connected by a rod.\n\nWe're talking about a height of about 30cm and M8 rods. Will this introduce lots of vibrations and is it possible to avoid easily? Are there any better connection ideas or improvements I can make to this design?\n\n*edit: here is a really bad hand-drawn sketch:\n\n\",David Cary,\"If I understand you correctly, compared to a Mendel RepRap you are using:\n\n\nM8 threaded rod (the same kind of rod used in the Mendel RepRap frame)\nroughly the same lengths of rod as in the Mendel, and\ncross-braced with more diagonals than the Mendel design.\n\n\nSo I expect less vibration and the same print quality as a Mendel.\n\nRather than put one block of wood at each corner with holes drilled at a bunch of weird skewed angles,\nthe \"\"1X2 split vertex\"\" looks like it is a lot easier to construct.\n\nI've heard several people claim that lots of threaded rods and associated corner connectors can be replaced with a few big sheets of wood in a 3D printer.\nSee Mendel90, RP9, SGBot, WolfStrap, etc.\n\nLooks like a very educational project. Good luck.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n729,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kamuro,3.267423727073639,5.318923495287756,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,\"z-axis hard to move in some areas - what could be faults, how to improve?\",\"I have a z-axis which follows schematically the same principle as the makerbot one's (threaded rod and two leading rods with linear ball bearings carrying a level). It is from an old experimental lab doing physics or chemistry.\n\nThe axis move gorgeously about 5 cm, but then it get's stuck on either sides of this way. Both driving threaded rod and the leading rods seem perfectly fine and should be able to allow for further movement. This is as far as I can see by eye.\n\nWhere should I look to find further issues and how could I improve the performance? Do I need to take the construction apart?\n\",tjb1,\"There could be a few issues at play.\n\n\nThe smooth rods are not parallel which is causing the bearings to bind the further you go up.\nPart of the thread is damaged not allowing it to pass through the nut.\nThe threaded rod is bent significantly to where it either doesn't pass through the nut or bind the assembly. (Is the end of the threaded rod opposite the motor constrained?)\nEven less likely is that the motor could be damaged. Since you said it moved 5mm I would have to assume that is several revolutions of the motor so this is unlikely but possible.\n\n\nThe easiest way to find the problem would be to unhook/remove the threaded rod and see if you can move the carriage up and down the rods by hand, if so you just narrowed the problem down significantly.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n729,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kamuro,3.267423727073639,5.318923495287756,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,\"z-axis hard to move in some areas - what could be faults, how to improve?\",\"I have a z-axis which follows schematically the same principle as the makerbot one's (threaded rod and two leading rods with linear ball bearings carrying a level). It is from an old experimental lab doing physics or chemistry.\n\nThe axis move gorgeously about 5 cm, but then it get's stuck on either sides of this way. Both driving threaded rod and the leading rods seem perfectly fine and should be able to allow for further movement. This is as far as I can see by eye.\n\nWhere should I look to find further issues and how could I improve the performance? Do I need to take the construction apart?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"X stage binding like this is almost always caused by parallelism issues with the rods and/or screw. The two-rod-plus-screw arrangement is quite over-constrained and thus requires good alignment to move smoothly. \n\nSome basic troubleshooting steps:\n\n\nMake sure the screw is not constrained at both ends. It is very difficult to manufacture a screw that is perfectly straight and then mount it so precisely that it can rotate with zero runout. Screws in light-duty linear motion applications should be allowed to \"\"wobble\"\" freely so any bend or runout doesn't apply side-load forces to the Z stage. This can be accomplished by putting a misalignment-tolerant coupler (like an Oldham coupler) on the driven end, and/or leaving the non-driven end free without any support bearing. A motor mount with a small amount of compliance (like a rubber stepper damper) can help when the screw is captive to the motor. \nLubricate the screw and bearings and make sure everything is clean and in good condition. \nAllow the Z carriage to self-align the rods and screw. The proper technique for this will depend on the Z stage, but the basic idea is to loosen the rod and screw mounts on either end, run the Z carriage back and forth a few times to push the rods into position, and then only re-tighten the top and bottom hardware when the carriage is at that end. It may also be necessary to loosen the screw nut and bearings on the carriage to get everything aligned properly and smooth-running, but that does not enforce parallelism like loosening the rod and screw mounts, so is really a secondary step. It may be necessary to leave some \"\"float\"\" in one rod or the bearings on one rod (with gravity preloading out any resultant slop) if the hardware has major alignment issues. \nIf the stage still binds after doing the above, it may be necessary to check if the linear hardware is bent (such as by rolling rods on a flat table) or use a file or Dremel to loosen up the mounts or whatever feature is causing the misalignment. \n\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n759,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kamuro,2.8153892694839717,3.0158611934564274,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Getting rid of hardware parts smell (GT2 timing belt),\"I ordered 10m of GT2 timing belt for a printer I want to build, however, the chemical smell from the belt is completely unbearable, in the sense of it gives me the feeling it is destroying something in my nose (and my nose isn't even particularly good). I tried to leave the belt outside in my garage for about three weeks now, but the smell has gone only so much. I naively assume it is the chemical to make the belt soft and bendable, would that even be a health risk having the belt around me for more extended intervals of time? Can I make the smell go away, and what would be the best way to do so?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"It's a garbage-quality belt, and it will probably continue outgassing at a steadily-decreasing rate for a very long time. \n\nThe fact that it has a strong chemical smell is pretty good evidence that it would not comply with regulations in civilized countries (such as REACH). I would recommend returning it or throwing it away and buying from a more reputable vendor. A large fraction of all cheap 3d printer parts these days are ridiculously far out of compliance with US/EU regs and basic common sense for contamination. \n\nIf you're hell-bent on using a crappy knock-off belt to save a few bucks, you could put it under vacuum to try to suck out the residual chemical gas faster. Just apply the vacuum very slowly / in stages (say over 10 minutes) so you don't get decompression blisters in the rubber. You shouldn't need a hard vacuum, dropping to 0.5-1 psia or 0.05 bar absolute for a day or two should help significantly. No guarantees though. \n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n786,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kamuro,2.1782824847157594,3.510789227224567,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,\"Easiest way to build a horizontal hotend mount at home, without printing\",\"For my Frankenstein's printer I am at a loss with the hotend mount. I cannot drill holes of 16 (upper diameter) and 12 mm (clamping diameter, 6mm high) which i would need to mount the E3D V6 clone I have.\n\nWhat I am looking for: a hotend mount plate that tightly fixes the hotend while having some holes for screws to mount it to the horizontally moving x-y drives. As I cannot print yet, it needs to be manufacturable at home. I thought of something like this:\nhttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:285405\nI could get a piece of wood thin enough to fit the 6mm gap for the hotend, would not really be able to put any screws through it along the flat axis. also I would have to glue the layer with a 16mm hole on top. Not to say that I don't own a drillbit of 16mm diameter...\n\nAre there some completely different ideas around which I didn't think of yet?\n\nAdditional info: the x-y axes are made from a scanner bed and an underneath mounted dvd drive laser positioner. Ideally, I'd want to mount the hotend directly to the DVD drive but a) there is almost no space for that, and b) I'm pretty sure I will burn the DVD drive's motor somewhere along the way, so I don't want to put too much work in the individual DVD drive.\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"If you do not have the tools to fabricate this component yourself, but have a 3D model available, I would suggest getting someone else to 3D print it for you.\n\nThere are multiple options for getting your model printed, such as:\n\n\nFriends\nYour local makerspace, library or similar\n3D Hubs \nMakeXYZ\nShapeways\nSculpteo\nand so on..\n\n\nGood luck!\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n786,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kamuro,2.1782824847157594,3.510789227224567,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,\"Easiest way to build a horizontal hotend mount at home, without printing\",\"For my Frankenstein's printer I am at a loss with the hotend mount. I cannot drill holes of 16 (upper diameter) and 12 mm (clamping diameter, 6mm high) which i would need to mount the E3D V6 clone I have.\n\nWhat I am looking for: a hotend mount plate that tightly fixes the hotend while having some holes for screws to mount it to the horizontally moving x-y drives. As I cannot print yet, it needs to be manufacturable at home. I thought of something like this:\nhttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:285405\nI could get a piece of wood thin enough to fit the 6mm gap for the hotend, would not really be able to put any screws through it along the flat axis. also I would have to glue the layer with a 16mm hole on top. Not to say that I don't own a drillbit of 16mm diameter...\n\nAre there some completely different ideas around which I didn't think of yet?\n\nAdditional info: the x-y axes are made from a scanner bed and an underneath mounted dvd drive laser positioner. Ideally, I'd want to mount the hotend directly to the DVD drive but a) there is almost no space for that, and b) I'm pretty sure I will burn the DVD drive's motor somewhere along the way, so I don't want to put too much work in the individual DVD drive.\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"You could cut a v-notch groove in a piece of plywood to hold one side of the groovemount neck, and then use a bolt through another piece of wood to push the neck into the V-notch. \n\nThere are lots of options when building RepStraps and JunkStraps. Really depends on what sort of hardware and fabrication capabilities you have on hand. \n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n936,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kamuro,2.528907649931287,5.10776060799293,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,\"Is there a lubricant that can be used for linear bearings, bronze sinter bushings and threaded rods alike?\",\"My printer will feature LM8UU bearings/threaded rods for the z-axis and bronze sinter bushings on the x- and y-Axis.\n\nAs also, but not only, written here http://reprap.org/wiki/Lubrication, I know that one should:\n - use machine oil for sinter bearings, if anything at all,\n - grease on the 'more fluid' side for the linear bearings so that the lubricant stays eqally with balls on the upper and lower side\n - and probably PTFE grease for the threaded rods (as for example provided by the Ultimaker UM2)\n\nIs there a way to unify this or at least only use two lubricants?\nI do not have the slightest idea about lubricants, I would not know what to actually buy if the combination would e.g. be machine oil and low viscosity grease. Do you have specific recommendations of what to avoid?\n\",Cris Thompson,\"I needed to grease up my machine and had no access to specialist materials. So I researched, and ended up using Vaseline. \n\nI now have a small tub of it as part of my machine maintenance kit.\n\",0.0,0.0\n936,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kamuro,2.528907649931287,5.10776060799293,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,\"Is there a lubricant that can be used for linear bearings, bronze sinter bushings and threaded rods alike?\",\"My printer will feature LM8UU bearings/threaded rods for the z-axis and bronze sinter bushings on the x- and y-Axis.\n\nAs also, but not only, written here http://reprap.org/wiki/Lubrication, I know that one should:\n - use machine oil for sinter bearings, if anything at all,\n - grease on the 'more fluid' side for the linear bearings so that the lubricant stays eqally with balls on the upper and lower side\n - and probably PTFE grease for the threaded rods (as for example provided by the Ultimaker UM2)\n\nIs there a way to unify this or at least only use two lubricants?\nI do not have the slightest idea about lubricants, I would not know what to actually buy if the combination would e.g. be machine oil and low viscosity grease. Do you have specific recommendations of what to avoid?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"A mid-weight PTFE grease like the popular Superlube will work in all the cases you mention (bearings, screws, and sintered bushings). 3D printer service conditions are quite light-duty as far as lubricants are concerned. You really just need to keep everything a little bit \"\"wet\"\" with oil or grease and performance will be adequate. \n\nThe main downside to using grease with sintered bushings is that they will likely stop being \"\"self-lubricating\"\" after the first exposure. The grease tends to clog the pores that allow the sintered bushings' factory oil impregnation to maintain a nice oil film on the sliding surfaces. So the bushings will forever-after require regular re-greasing, just like the ball bearings and threaded rod. \n\nIn comparison, a light machine oil like 3-in-one will maintain the sintered bushings' self-lubricating properties, but if used in ball bearings and screws will require very frequent replenishment. And that is certainly an option -- oil DOES work on bearings and screws -- but odds are good that you'll eventually over-oil the bearings, get drips on the build plate, and bang your head against a wall trying to figure out why your prints won't stick all of a sudden. Grease doesn't need to be applied as often, and it tends to stay where you put it rather than dripping. So grease is generally preferred to oil if you have to pick just one lubricant.\n\nAgain, the most important thing is to keep sliding and rolling surfaces wet with something. You'll just have various maintenance trade-offs with different options. \n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n978,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kamuro,3.618048892289167,5.225102419516751,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.2576023278269264,Can a heatbed PCB (Prusa Mk2) be straightened out?,\"I have a really bent heatbed PCB, the middle is elevated about 3 mm with respect to all edges.\n\nI have found this thread Warped PCBs, where a heating method is applied by baking a PCB in the oven, as described here: 3.2 Bow and Twist Repair.\n\nCan this help straightening out a Prusa heatbed PCB? If so, can I apply the heat by the heatbed itself, or do I need to utilize an oven? Will the pressure from the strongly clamped glass plate be enough or will the glass break at these temperatures (given that the heatbed can reach them).\n\",darth pixel,\"Baking PCB in an oven is not a good idea, I would say. I know PCBs are resistive to the heat (especially heatbeds) but, still, it sounds odd. But the real question is how baking would help. Let's leave it.\n\nIf your heatbed is such bent you can do few things depending on your situation/environment.\n\nYou can:\n\n\nAdd two glass plates (at the bottom and at the top) and clip them all together;\nSupport your HB with flat aluminium or even wood;\nAdd an aluminium frame, or;\nIf you use glass plate, clip the HB to the glass using stronger (wider) clips.\n\n\nAd#1 the thermistor can even stay sandwiched between the PCB and the bottom glass plate.\n\nAd#2 If your HB is bent up in the middle, you can use the middle thermistor hole. Drill it a bit with fi8mm drill (but not too much, I would say halfway through) and use a cone head screw to screw it flat on to the aluminium/wood support. Of course you will have to install a thermistor into the new place.\n\nThe simplest, and less destructive, solution is #1 and I would recommend that.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n978,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kamuro,3.618048892289167,5.225102419516751,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.2576023278269264,Can a heatbed PCB (Prusa Mk2) be straightened out?,\"I have a really bent heatbed PCB, the middle is elevated about 3 mm with respect to all edges.\n\nI have found this thread Warped PCBs, where a heating method is applied by baking a PCB in the oven, as described here: 3.2 Bow and Twist Repair.\n\nCan this help straightening out a Prusa heatbed PCB? If so, can I apply the heat by the heatbed itself, or do I need to utilize an oven? Will the pressure from the strongly clamped glass plate be enough or will the glass break at these temperatures (given that the heatbed can reach them).\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"Since aluminium has a melting point at 600°C, you're unlikely to get it to a state where it flexes much by heating. I would doubt you even manage to aneal it (release the internal stresses).\n\nYour best option is to construct a jig which allows you to press the distortion out (or pull, using a screw in the existing holes), whilst also taking care not to apply pressure (at least with a sharp edge) to the tracks or coatings.\n\nThis will only be a partial fix, but might be worth trying with a glass sheet in addition.\n\nEdit: This might be relevant for a Mk3 heatbed, but not the Mk2 as asked in the question.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1247,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kamuro,4.255155677057378,6.653662396510319,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,3.929104701733314,3.299796711874648,Efficient and easy way to thermally insulate the heat block of the hotend?,\"Sparked by this question, I wanted to discuss the most efficient and also the easiest ways of thermally insulating the heat block of the hotend.\n\nI have seen Kapton tape insulations as done here with a very conclusive resumee about its usefulness.\n\nIn the links of the named article, a method with insulating material from a heatbed is described, however without giving quantitative results.\n\nAdditionally, I know that in the guys over in the german reprap forum produce their own silicon covers for the heater block. As I understand there is a large spread between people's reports, from 'almost negligible' as insulator (but helpful for other things) to very useful. No quantification, though. Also, these seem to come with a certain amount of effort to produce.\n\nAre there additional solutions and/or comparisons between solutions?\n\",PuterPro,\"I just came up with my own solution before I read this discussion. (Monoprice Select v2.1 - Wanhao i3 Clone).\n\nI ~think~ I have a Mk8 hotend. \n\nI had some silicon rubber sheet (about 1.4mm thick) which started life as a cookie sheet, but I gave it a new purpose in life, LOL. \nI cut two pieces to length to wrap around the hotend, and made a double thick sandwich.\n\nI then used adhesive backed aluminum ducting tape* (SEE EDIT BELOW!!) (NOT duct tape, ALUMINIUM tape) and wrapped the sheets in it, then used needle nose pliers to shape it to fit the heater block. The aluminium tape helps it hold shape. \n\nI used 3M 468MP to tape it to the hotend, as I currently have no kapton tape.\nJust did this today, if I have adhesion issues I'll TRY to remember to report back here. :) If it does pops loose, I'll use a bit of stiff wire twisted around to support it.\n\nEDIT: Welllll ... sometimes one gets too clever for their own good! \n\nUSING THE ALUMINIUM TAPE IS NOT A GOOD SOLUTION, DON'T DO IT!!! It seems the adhesive on that tape emits noxious, and perhaps POISONOUS fumes when heated! I had to vent the room to the outside for a couple hours with dual fans and the hotend at temp to clear the air! Ooops. LOL \n\nIt's good now, it baked off.\n\nThe idea DID work, and I'm sure would be fine if you use regular heavy duty aluminium foil. Be sure to mount it with the seam on the INSIDE and the 3M tape should hold it closed just fine.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1247,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kamuro,4.255155677057378,6.653662396510319,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,3.929104701733314,3.299796711874648,Efficient and easy way to thermally insulate the heat block of the hotend?,\"Sparked by this question, I wanted to discuss the most efficient and also the easiest ways of thermally insulating the heat block of the hotend.\n\nI have seen Kapton tape insulations as done here with a very conclusive resumee about its usefulness.\n\nIn the links of the named article, a method with insulating material from a heatbed is described, however without giving quantitative results.\n\nAdditionally, I know that in the guys over in the german reprap forum produce their own silicon covers for the heater block. As I understand there is a large spread between people's reports, from 'almost negligible' as insulator (but helpful for other things) to very useful. No quantification, though. Also, these seem to come with a certain amount of effort to produce.\n\nAre there additional solutions and/or comparisons between solutions?\n\",StevenR01,\"I am using high temperature RTV. I just load it up and smooth it out like frosting a very small cake. I leave the top of the heater block clean and cover it with a piece of cotton insulation. I don't care about power consumption, I just want it to stay hot when the workpiece cooling fan comes on.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n1286,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kamuro,2.8153892694839717,5.161361121065475,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,2.6553159206313057,How to transport a 3D printer? Dismount needed?,\"I need to transport my FDM 3D Printer because I am moving.\n\nWhat are the precautions that one should take? Should I dismount the motors and axes? I would definitively unplug the electronics as far as reasonable and fix the motors to the frame so they don't slide during transport. Should I have a housing to avoid dust and other mechanical issues?\n\",Dampmaskin,\"Yes, fix the motors and any other loose/movable parts. Remove the bowden tube if it's there, and any other parts that are sticking out. Put the whole thing in a a bag to protect from dust, and put the bag in a box to protect it from getting beat up. Remember to calibrate it when you're ready to set it up again.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n1286,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kamuro,2.8153892694839717,5.161361121065475,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,2.6553159206313057,How to transport a 3D printer? Dismount needed?,\"I need to transport my FDM 3D Printer because I am moving.\n\nWhat are the precautions that one should take? Should I dismount the motors and axes? I would definitively unplug the electronics as far as reasonable and fix the motors to the frame so they don't slide during transport. Should I have a housing to avoid dust and other mechanical issues?\n\",Dan Boyko,\"You just need to take basic security actions. like fixing all movable parts simple as that \n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1404,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kamuro,4.626593049438165,5.892836706067531,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,5.422994479194246,3.671684220538337,Can aged PLA be refurbished?,\"Inspired by another question and due to the fact that some of my filament will face the same problem when I will use them again, I wanted to know if there are proven recipies to get rid of water that has ben incorporated to PLA filament from humidity? One knows the filament had too much exposure to humidity when hearing tiny puffs during extrusion and/or more brittle prints.\n\nI know about suggestions to heat the water out of the filament at a temperature well below the glass transition temperature, but can someone provide first hand knowledge or even evidence?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"The easiest way to freshen up filament is hot air, although there are other options.\n\nThere is an optimal melt processing moisture level for every plastic, typically in the range of 0.1-0.2% water content by weight. But the equilibrium moisture content of most plastics in humid air can be more like 1%. As a consequence, hot air dehydration is standard practice to prepare plastic pellets for extrusion in industry. Pretty much every injection-molded and extruded plastic product in the world -- including 3d printer filament -- is made with pre-dried pellets. Hot air is blown through the pellets until they are below the moisture limit.\n\nDifferent plastics tolerate extrusion with different amounts of moisture, and absorb different amounts of moisture. They can also tolerate different drying temperatures. So the ideal storage and drying conditions vary by material. \n\n\nPLA absorbs relatively little moisture, but in humid environments can accumulate enough water content to cause steam bubbles during extrusion. In some cases, steam bubbles can contribute to hot end jamming. Extreme wetness has been known to cause swelling that can increase filament feed drag. It's arguable whether wetness actually causes brittleness, or if that is a separate aging issue. People who keep their homes below ~50% relative humidity usually don't have any problems. Leaving PLA in a dry environment for a week or two should adequately re-dry it, or it can be gently heated to about 120F / 50C for a couple hours. (Some people dry it hotter. but that risks deforming the filament.)\nABS also doesn't absorb very much water, but perhaps a little more than PLA. It also experiences steam bubbles, but that's typically the only issue. Homes below ~45% RH usually don't have problems. Storing ABS with fresh silica gel for a couple weeks will dry it. Or it can be oven-dried up to about 180F / 80C for an couple hours. HIPS can be treated the same. \nThe kind of PET used in plastic bottles is rapidly degraded into tar by hydrolysis when melted with any significant water content. So PETG filaments are specially blended to absorb less water and to be less damaged by water than PET. But there is still the possibility of bubbles and cloudy strands due to steam expansion at higher temperatures, and there is some evidence that wet PETG produces weaker, more brittle prints than dry PETG. Different manufacturers' blends require different conditions: some people report Taulman t-glase needs oven-drying and careful storage while Esun PETG is fairly tolerant of normal home humidity levels. Oven-drying at 150F / 65C should work well. \nNylon absorbs a huge amount of water, which causes it to swell considerably, produce massive steam bubbles, look cloudy, warp more, and adhere less than properly-dried nylon. It's nearly unprintable when wet. It should be oven-dried at around 150F / 65C for 4+ hours -- desiccant will not strip enough moisture from it. In fact, nylon will pull water out of used silica gel! Once dry, it should be stored with an aggressive desiccant (either bone-dry silica or preferably calcium chloride). It only takes a few hours of exposure to air for it to become excessively moist. Building a sealed drybox feed system is highly recommended to avoid exposed time during and between prints. \nPolycarbonate is similar to nylon in that is is an aggressive water-absorber. It will look cloudy, produce steam bubbles, warp more, and provide very poor layer bonding when wet. It should be oven-dried at 180F / 80C if on a plastic spool (up to 250F / 120C if dried alone) for 4+ hours and then stored in a drybox with aggressive desiccant just like nylon. Note that some modern PC blends like Esun ePC are less prone to water absorption, at the cost of some decrease in mechanical properties. \nPVA is basically destroyed by airborne humidity, since it literally dissolves in water. Store in a drybox with an aggressive desiccant at all times. \n\n\nComposite filaments should be treated like the base material. \n\nSome drying and prevention options:\n\n\nOven: The \"\"warm\"\" setting will usually work pretty well. Let the oven preheat and settle out for a while, and measure temperature with a good oven thermometer or thermocouple. Shield the filament from direct radiant heating and hot spots with aluminum foil, cookie sheets, etc. Electric ovens will dry faster than gas ovens, because burning natural gas produces some additional moisture. Do not leave the oven unattended if using temperatures above the glass point of the filament, or bad things may happen!\n\"\"Light bucket\"\": A 5-gallon plastic bucket with an incandescent lightbulb inside is a pretty effective way to gently warm low-temp filament like PLA for drying or medium-term storage. Leave the lid slightly open if drying. \nFood dehydrator: Works great. Set temperatures as per the oven temps above. The main challenge is getting a large enough space inside for a filament spool. \nDesiccant: In order for desiccant to actively dry filament, it must be significantly more attractive to water than the filament is. And affinity for water is a function of how wet the material already is. That means dry desiccant can easily pull some water out of very wet filament, but wet desiccant can actually give water TO the filament! Rechargeable indicator desiccant (such as an Eva-Dry E-333 unit) is ideal. It's also important to have ENOUGH desiccant: silica gel can only absorb 10% of its weight in water at 20% RH. That means to pull 1% moisture content out of a wet 1kg spool, you would need to start with at least 100g of bone-dry, fresh-baked silica! \"\"Used\"\" silica is basically useless, it already contains too much water to pull any more from the filament. But you can re-dry the silica in an oven. 250F / 120C for 6 hours should be safe for all types of silica gel, but more aggressive drying (including microwave drying) is possible for some silica gels. Follow the gel manufacturer instructions. \nRice: Does not work. It's basically a myth that rice has drying power. A bag of rice you buy at the store is already pretty close to moisture equilibrium with the air, so it has minimal capacity to pull water from filament (or a soaked iPhone, for that matter). If you dry the rice in an oven to drive out its water first, it will work to some degree, but silica gel is considerably more effective. \nKitty litter: Silica gel style kitty litter is nearly identical to desiccant silica gel. Like rice, it is fairly close to saturated when you open the container, but can be dried in the oven to be a good cheap bulk desiccant. Clay type kitty litter is not as effective. Be careful of getting kitty litter dust all over your filament. \nDry storage A thick plastic box with an airtight seal is preferable. Look for recycling code 2 (HDPE) or 5 (PP) on the box. 5 gallon buckets with sealing lids also work fine. Ziplocks and other thin plastic bags are better than nothing, but are permeable to water (yes, really) and can only be relied on as long as there is fresh desiccant in the bag. Acrylic/plexiglas dryboxes have been sold by various people, but acrylic is very permeable to water, so I don't recommend that option. \nAir conditioning: Simply keeping the air in your printing environment reasonably dry will protect PLA and ABS and other low-absorption filaments. It may help to buy a humidity monitor to get an understanding of your ambient humidity. \n\n\nNow, considering the original question here, it's important to note that moisture content is not the only way filament can age or be damaged. PLA in particular is prone to becoming brittle over time. There are different theories for why this occurs. One is gradual chemical aging because poly(lactic acid) simply is not a very stable polymer. Moisture could contribute to that aging process, but true chemical aging would be irreversible even if the filament is later dried. How much this occurs should depend on the specific polymer blend and storage conditions. \n\nAnother theory for PLA aging is that the residual filament extrusion stresses (from being drawn down to the correct diameter and rapidly quenched in a water bath) are slowly creeping over time. Anyone who has placed a PLA part under heavy load for more than a few weeks will see PLA creep. It's a rather odd polymer in that it will \"\"creep to failure\"\" and crack at very low creep elongations rather than progressively deform in a ductile manner like most creep-prone materials. So if the PLA has significant stresses locked-in from the initial extrusion process (which is very common) it may be creeping into a more brittle arrangement of polymer molecules over time. That would explain the aging effect, and it would explain why \"\"drying\"\" sometimes rejuvenates the PLA: heating the filament near its glass point will allow the polymer molecules to gently relax and basically anneal to a less brittle state. \n\",4.647795820590225,2.0769199823829045\n1404,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kamuro,4.626593049438165,5.892836706067531,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,5.422994479194246,3.671684220538337,Can aged PLA be refurbished?,\"Inspired by another question and due to the fact that some of my filament will face the same problem when I will use them again, I wanted to know if there are proven recipies to get rid of water that has ben incorporated to PLA filament from humidity? One knows the filament had too much exposure to humidity when hearing tiny puffs during extrusion and/or more brittle prints.\n\nI know about suggestions to heat the water out of the filament at a temperature well below the glass transition temperature, but can someone provide first hand knowledge or even evidence?\n\",Akanksha Vishwakarma,\"Storing PLAs in plastic zip locks along with Silica Gel helps with extraction of water from PLAs. If you don't have silica gel, grains of rice can be other work around for serving the purpose. \n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n1503,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kamuro,3.618048892289167,5.302874674767375,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,3.929104701733314,3.206343760378365,How to utilize/calibrate print fans for PLA?,\"At the moment, I am thinking about print fans that cool the plastic when printing. I am not asking about the design of the fanducts, which might be a whole book on its own. I would like to know how to find out the best application of print cooling for a given PLA filament, - that is fan speeds and setup in a slicer of your choice (to learn what the different options are).\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"Everybody's combination of fan hardware and print settings is different. Unless someone else has the exact same printer and slicer profiles as you, there's no way to really say anything like \"\"use X% for PLA\"\" or whatever. For practical purposes, you just empirically figure it out with test prints based on a few simple rules of thumb:\n\n\nUse lots of cooling for PLA, moderate cooling for PETG, and minimal cooling for ABS. (Note that sometimes ABS does benefit from gentle airflow, and PLA shouldn't necessarily always just be blasted at max power.)\nUse less cooling on big prints where each layer takes a long time, more cooling on small prints where each layer is very quick.\nAxial / box fan? You'll probably want to run it at full power. Radial / squirrel cage blower? You may want to run lower power. \nOverhangs curling up or sagging? More airflow may be needed. (Lower layer heights also help enormously.)\nHot end temp sagging when the fan kicks on? Try less airflow. (Or insulate your hot block better.)\nWeak layer bonding? Try less airflow. (Or raise your hot end temp.)\nSmall, fast prints getting mushy or corners \"\"pulling in\"\"? You need more airflow. (Or lower heatbed temps.)\nPrint warping / corners lifting off the bed? Try less airflow, particularly on the lowest few layers. (Or higher heatbed temps, or a better adhesion layer, or less nozzle/bed gap for the first layer, or any other approach.)\nFan too noisy? Try less airflow. (Or get a better fan.)\nFilament stringing during travel moves? Try less airflow pointed directly at the nozzle. (Or tune your retraction settings better, or get the moisture out of your filament, or lower hot end temp.)\n\n\",3.367452517504837,2.0769199823829045\n1503,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kamuro,3.618048892289167,5.302874674767375,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,3.929104701733314,3.206343760378365,How to utilize/calibrate print fans for PLA?,\"At the moment, I am thinking about print fans that cool the plastic when printing. I am not asking about the design of the fanducts, which might be a whole book on its own. I would like to know how to find out the best application of print cooling for a given PLA filament, - that is fan speeds and setup in a slicer of your choice (to learn what the different options are).\n\",Jeanie,\"I use PLA and both my fans stopped working. I am not techy and couldn't figure out how to fix them so I set up a house fan that blew directly at the motor keeping it cool and it works as good if not better than the fans that came with the 3d printer. You cannot let your motors over heat because your filament will get curled up insize the nozzle.So try that before buying 3d printer fans.\n\",0.0,0.0\n1505,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kamuro,3.0576060275493275,5.633917983927635,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,What is the influence of a lower BAUDrate?,\"I am using a BAUDrate of 115200 since I cannot make a connection to my printer with the advised 250000 rate. Are there any downsides or limits I reach earlier given by the lower BAUDrate?\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"Baud rate is the rate at which information is transferred in a communication channel, given as a number of bits per second (bps). So a baud rate of 250000 is capable of transferring a maximum of 250000 bits per second (31250 bytes/s). When working with serial ports, both ends of the communication line will have to \"\"talk\"\" with the same speed - the same baud rate - to understand each other.\n\nSo when using a baud rate of 11520 you will theoretically be limited to transfer data with about half the speed of 25000. If you are transferring large amounts of data, this might be a limiting factor for your application, but if you are not pushing the limits of the your serial port, it probably will not matter at all. \n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n1505,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kamuro,3.0576060275493275,5.633917983927635,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,What is the influence of a lower BAUDrate?,\"I am using a BAUDrate of 115200 since I cannot make a connection to my printer with the advised 250000 rate. Are there any downsides or limits I reach earlier given by the lower BAUDrate?\n\",darth pixel,\"If your printer doesn't have an SD card then the whole communication between computer and arduino is performed \"\"live\"\". There is kinda buffer of data which arduino can swallow. Then it needs to process it (and then can send some reports to your app) and then arduino is ready to get new \"\"set\"\" of instructions to work on.\n\nNow. If a baudrate is to low then there could be a situation when arduino finishes its job and has to wait for new bite of data. In such a situation you can see the printer pauses printing as it waits for signals from arduino as it waits for data from computer. That's more or less a downside of a low baudrate.\n\nIf you have a SD card then the data is sucked from it but reports are still send by port to show results on screen. In such situation you can see sligtly late screen update.\n\nA screen means just a fun of live preview but breaking printing process (caused by late data send) means your hot nozzle stays over the same position which can destruct a surface or even fry up a plastic a bit. It also oozes and therefore creates lasting artifacts.\n\nResuming - low baudrate is evil ;)\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3314,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kamuro,3.452496054252184,4.352351706852103,3.507933925167123,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,\"Skipping Y-steps, only when using Ultimaker Cura\",\"In order to find out why my printer sometimes skips Y-steps (always in the same direction) only in Ultimaker Cura, I am digging into the G-code to understand the problem better. However, thousands of lines of G-code are hard to analyze. \n\nI am using a Mk2 heatbed with a glass sheet, and a NEMA17 motor in a P3Steel Toolson Edition printer. The axis feels reasonably easygoing in both directions.\n\nReducing the acceleration to 4000 did not get rid of the problem completely - it might have relieved the issue, though. I didn't do quantifiable tests, sorry.\n\nAre there any other obvious things I might have missed? I know the acceleration might still be rather high, but since it works with Slic3r easily I would like to take advantage of some features in Ultimaker Cura with this printing speed.\n\",cmm,\"You answered your own question in a comment.\n\n\n Yes, of course, increasing the maximum supplied current to the motor gets rid of the issue. Still, I'd rather go with lower current to limit heating up the motors. I was just wondering if there is something in the two slicing engines that makes cura provoke much harsher movements that cause the printer to lose steps... – kamuro May 21 '17 at 21:22\n\n\nMotors are tough\n\nMotors are meant to be warm, some are made to be hot. Not all motors have the same specs, but I pulled one on Amazon (link) which shows a rated temperature rise of 60°C above a rated ambient temperature of 50°C. If these specifications stack, and they should because the insulation of the motor is rated to 130°C, you can boil water on the stepper motors.\n\nBut ... other factors\n\nBut, what are the real limits, and how much current should you run through the motors?\n\nFirst, many 3D printers have plastic mounts for the stepper motors. You don't want that plastic to soften. It can if the motors get too hot. I've seen it in a commercial 2D printer, and gnashing of teeth across the Pacific ensued. Even for PLA, that temperature is uncomfortable to human flesh. I soften PLA at 75°C when fitting tight parts, but PETG and ABS are good for higher temperatures.\n\nLow current hurts accuracy\n\nMotors are remarkably linear converters of current to torque, but they still have non-linearities at the limits. This matters most when micro-stepping, which (AFAIK) all 3D printers use for higher resolution.\n\nTwo factors hurt accuracy at lower currents when micro-stepping.\n\nNon-linearities in the drivers result in magnetic fields that do not linearly align with the commanded drive strength. The torque is not exactly what is needed to position the motor between the poles at the correct angle.\n\nStatic friction, sometimes called stiction, requires additional torque to overcome. In a slow micro-stepping move, this will result in the motion hanging back, then jumping ahead. Motion can be ragged rather than smooth. Extrusion can be pulsating rather than smooth.\n\nBoth are improved by applying enough current to the motor to generate enough torque. More current gives more heat, but also better behavior and performance.\n\nPower up the motors!\n\nThey can take it. Check their mounts to be sure the mounts aren't underdesigned.\n\nWhy Cura and not Slic3r?\n\nA deeply detailed review of the g-code would be needed. It could be as simple as the direction of infill, or the preferred direction of your model compared with the direction chosen by the two slicers.\n\nIt could be some limits coded into the \"\"custom g-code\"\" portion of the two slicers. I am not familiar with Cura, but Slic3r allows you to insert additional g-code under many situations. Something brought in with a printer profile may be limiting acceleration of jerk.\n\nCould be differences in fan setting, or almost anything.\n\nWhen you are dealing with a marginal situation, and it sounds like this is right on the edge, very small differences can cause dramatic changes in how the whole system responds. 3D printers are complex systems, with resonances, many vibration modes, non-linear friction. Knowing for sure may be beyond the scope of your and our engineering tools.\n\nDon't operate on the Margins\n\nSet the motors to the proper current levels. Set the bed to the proper height. Set the hot end to the right temperature. Try to always stay in the sweet spot. Your prints will reward you.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n3315,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kamuro,2.1782824847157594,4.394816258951926,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Why does Cura insert G0 commands between G1 commands while Slic3r doesn't?,\"While looking into G-code I was wondering why Cura inserts G0 commands in between G1 commands every other line like this:\n\nG1 F2400 X144.612 Y130.187 E1652.56358\nG0 F6000 X144.612 Y129.621\nG1 F2400 X72.905 Y57.914 E1654.16570\nG0 F6000 X73.471 Y57.914\nG1 F2400 X144.612 Y129.056 E1655.75518\nG0 F6000 X144.612 Y128.490\nG1 F2400 X74.036 Y57.914 E1657.33203\nG0 F6000 X74.602 Y57.914\nG1 F2400 X144.612 Y127.924 E1658.89623\nG0 F6000 X144.612 Y127.359\n\n\nIt seems like it wants to move to a slightly offset starting position for the next extrusion. I dont understand why, though. It wants to have touching lines as a result, doesn't it?\n\nI do see this making sense in a fill situation, - this section is called 'type: skin'. How does slic3r get away doing infill without this?\n\nAm I correct to read slic3r gcode correctly to use G1 instead of G0 commands for this?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Formally, G0 is a rapid move and G1 is a coordinated move. A G1 will cause the printhead to move in a straight line from the begin to the end position, whereas a G0 allows the printhead to move in any curve, so long as it ends up in the target position. Because of acceleration and deceleration constraints, it can sometimes be faster to move in a curve rather than a straight line.\n\nHowever, I don't think any actually firmware implements this, and a G0 behaves in the exact same way as a G1.\n\nWhat the piece of G-code you posted is doing is creating a solid infill, which consists of a bunch of parallel lines, each slightly offset from the next:\n\n\n\nIt makes sense that no material is extruded when it moves from one line to the other, as otherwise too much material would get deposited at the edge.\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n409,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Josip Ivic,4.255155677057378,4.760253750718885,2.7799718631987322,4.670422881206417,5.27451926693197,4.503837230269701,\"What are the pros and cons of collecting parts yourself, versus getting a DIY kit and then modifying it?\",\"I'm thinking about buliding my own 3D printer from scratch. \n\nIs it better to buy a starter DIY kit and try to build your printer around it, or to order separate parts for printer, and then to combine a printer?\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"From a general point of view, there are a few things to consider.\n\nIf you buy a kit:\n\nPros:\n\n\nYou get some insurance that you have all the parts that you need to get a functional printer - all the electronics, structure, bolts, nuts, screws, washers, wires and so on.\nMost likely, all the parts you get are made to fit together.\nYou will (usually) get a manual, often a community that can help you out, and sometimes even technical support.\nSometimes, it can be cheaper than buying each part separately (but it can also be more expensive)\n\n\nCons:\n\n\nYou have limited/no options to customize your printer to your own preferences without purchasing additional parts. \nSome kits can be difficult to upgrade later or may be locked to some configuration or software.\n\n\nMy opinion:\n\nThe way I look at it, the better option for you depends on how you want to spend your time. That is:\n\n\nIf you get a kit, you can spend more time building.\nIf you collect all the parts yourself, you will have to spend time planning, ordering parts (possibly multiple times) in addition to actually building the printer. A possible lack of manuals could also increase the building difficulty.\n\n\nIf you don't already own a 3D printer, I would recommend getting a kit, simply because struggling with trivial things like parts not fitting together can take away the fun for many people.\n\",4.52054463609033,2.0769199823829045\n409,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Josip Ivic,4.255155677057378,4.760253750718885,2.7799718631987322,4.670422881206417,5.27451926693197,4.503837230269701,\"What are the pros and cons of collecting parts yourself, versus getting a DIY kit and then modifying it?\",\"I'm thinking about buliding my own 3D printer from scratch. \n\nIs it better to buy a starter DIY kit and try to build your printer around it, or to order separate parts for printer, and then to combine a printer?\n\",Greenonline,\"Three great answers have already been posted, and it has been extremely interesting to read them. I shall try not to repeated what has already been said.\n\nI have sourced the parts separately for three different printers:\n\n\nP3Steel (the frame was a kit, mind: Orientation of long thin rod on P3Steel v4)\nWilson II\nKossel XL and Mini\n\n\nI have been coding Arduinos and Pis and building robots and quadcopters for a few years now. Then, in November 2016, because I needed a prop guard for a ZMR250 quadcopter that I found hard to obtain, but easy to print, I started reading about 3D printers (mostly RepRap wiki, and then individual blogs of straight forward builds, as well as design modifications, of Prusa, P3Steel, Wilson and Delta/Kossel printers), watching countless construction videos and asking questions here on SE 3D Printers, and reading other's questions and answers, as well as going through eBay for hours at a time, looking up parts and making numerous Bill Of Materials (BOMs) and blogging the information that I gleaned. So this gave me a good grounding and starting point for when I did get around to ordering. In fact, the process is still on going...\n\nAfter ordering the parts, in December, piecemeal, I then had to wait for a month for the parts to arrive from China, during which time I read some more, and revised what I had already learned.\n\nI then, finally, got to work on the P3Steel, in January, but two and a half weeks later, before I had finished it, I had to move to BKK for an extended period. \n\nI suffered delays with the P3Steel build due to postal latency, obviously, but also, some partial kits where missing critical parts (see Is the 8mm x 20mm bearing axle for the X-axis idler (of a P3Steel) a custom part?), so I had to get them machined in Thailand (because it only costs around $3 to get something machined here). Hopefully, when I get back to the UK, I should have everything to hand and be able to finish the build in a few weeks maximum\n\nOnce in Bangkok, I started sourcing parts for a Wilson II, and then, subsequently, a Kossel, mostly because the aluminium and steel rods are a quarter, to a half, the price that they are in Europe. Also, I had to go through the ordering process again, getting parts from China for these two printers - however, the parts from China only take two weeks to arrive to Thailand, not a month or so, for the UK. The Wilson II parts I plan to take back to the UK, in order to complete the build there, hopefully printing the plastic parts on the P3Steel, when/if the P3Steel is completed.\n\nNote, that seven, or eight months, down the line from when I first took an interest in 3D printing, I still haven't completed a single printer, yet. However, I sure as hell have learnt a lot. Note: most of the delay is due to the six month relocation away from my printer build in the UK.\n\nAlso, due to my reading of the modification blogs for the Wilson and Kossel, I have recently been re-purchasing upgrades, before I have even fitted a bolt together, for the Kossel and Wilson, let alone completed either of the base builds. For example, I have just purchased Chinese aluminium vertices, rather than the plastic PLA prints that I got from Sintron. So I have ended up with a fair collection of spare (redundant?) parts, but again, it has helped me gain a great insight as to what works well, and what does not.\n\nTo reiterate that which TestGeek has said, one major tip I would have is (and I read this on a forum when I was first getting into 3D printer building), if you are sourcing the parts separately, is to buy bulk (get packs of 10 pcs, 50 pcs, 100 pcs), and buy more than you require: nuts, bolts, bearings, GT2 belt, GT2 pulleys. The price comes down phenomenally, and you can resell the spares, locally, for about as much as you paid for the whole lot, online, thereby covering, or almost covering, the cost of the printer. Plus, spares come in handy for further builds down the road. Don't buy anything from the US (unless you are already in the US, I guess) - the import/postage fees are outrageous.\n\n\n\nTL;DR\n\nIn the same way as you learn more from building a kit as opposed to buying a pre-built printer, you will learn more sourcing the parts separately, but it might cost more, in redundant parts. Also:\n\n\nResearch extensively first\nBuy bulk\nBe prepared for delays, be patient\nBe prepared for an iterative design\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n410,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Josip Ivic,2.8153892694839717,3.724670316116101,0.0,2.011441651225199,4.091740895605862,4.592941926651472,How to choose a right 3D printer filament type?,\"There are a big variety of them that can be found at the market. Some of them have similar characteristics, the other varies from each other.\n\nWhat are props and cons of cheaper filament vs expensive filament?\n\nHow to choose which filament to use?\n\",kaine,\"\nDetermine what properties you need the filament to have.\n\nThere are a very wide variety of filaments because they all have somewhat different properties. You need to determine what properties you need your final print to possess. For instance, ABS can be smoothed used acetone and PLA is biodegradable. More exotic filaments could be conductive or be extremely flexible. Do not neglect to consider safety of the plastic in your application. A full list of properties is too broad for an appropriate answer from this site.\nDetermine what you printer is designed to handle.\n\nMost printers can handle PLA and ABS with little issue but higher temperatures are required to use some materials such as nylon and polycarbonate. Determine beforehand what your printer is designed to handle. This includes determining whether you have and appropriate heated bed or other accessories.\nDetermine what you can afford.\n\nPrinting not only requires the cost of the weight of filament in the final print but all of the support structures and misprints you produce. Not only should you look for inexpensive filaments, but you should look for ones that are good enough quality you don't waste time and money fighting problems with the raw material.\n\n\nAll in all, this will vary case by case. I would recommend that you start with PLA or ABS as they are common and relatively easy to work with but that you do your own research into what each individual filament type has to offer.. \n\",3.5068404193471867,2.0769199823829045\n413,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Josip Ivic,1.726248027126092,4.67858465808681,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Methods for smoothing 3D objects,\"How do I smooth 3D printed objects? What is the best / common method to do this?\n\",Kevin Morse,\"Abrasive blasting is the only other method I can think of which you haven't said you don't want to try.\n\nIt is certainly the easiest method provided you have access to one. \n\nDifferent forms of abrasive blasting include:\n\n\nshot blasting (metal shot) - I suspect it would be far to abrasive but I've never tried it.\nsandblasting - you have to be careful but this is basically sandpaper attached to a wand. I've used it with great success.\nbead blasting - using plastic beads. It might actually be the best option but I've never tried it.\nmedia blasting - usually uses ground up shells. Might work but I've never tried it.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n413,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Josip Ivic,1.726248027126092,4.67858465808681,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Methods for smoothing 3D objects,\"How do I smooth 3D printed objects? What is the best / common method to do this?\n\",Martin Carney,\"Get a rock/jewelry tumbler and some tumbling media such as stainless steel shot, and try tumbling your print.\n\nFor 3D printed plastic, your print will (a) need to be sturdy, and (b) not have any fine details or small parts that you don't want to be worn away. With metal you will tumble it for hours in order to smooth and semi-polish the surface. With plastic, I would recommend a much shorter time period.\n\nOne person tried this using screws as his tumbling media, and has some interesting results to show for it. Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4. Basically, you can get a metallic coating on your plastic print that is made up of tiny bits of the tumbling medium. You'll need to add a protective coating to keep it from rubbing off, but it's cheaper than buying metallic filament.\n\n(Thanks to Mark Walter's comment for the linked articles)\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n442,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Josip Ivic,1.726248027126092,3.3364772277273533,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,1.3276579603156529,Whats the difference between a basic rapid prototyping machine and a 3D printer?,\"In general 3D printers are compact and smaller than RP machines. That's ok. But, what's the difference? 3D printers can be used as RP machine too.\n\",Daniel M.,\"All rapid prototyping means is automatically producing a physical part from a cad model. 3D printing is a way to achieve rapid prototyping. There are 2 main methods of rapid prototyping: additive, and subtractive.\n\nA 3D printer is additive- you add materials to an object layer by layer.\n\nUsually, when people talk about a subtractive machine, they are talking about a CNC mill (or lathe), which tend to be extremely large (most are over one ton). You start with all the material there, and you subtract the material that you don't want. This might be what you are thinking of.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n442,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Josip Ivic,1.726248027126092,3.3364772277273533,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,1.3276579603156529,Whats the difference between a basic rapid prototyping machine and a 3D printer?,\"In general 3D printers are compact and smaller than RP machines. That's ok. But, what's the difference? 3D printers can be used as RP machine too.\n\",Leo Ervin,\"To add to the above answer, a very simple way to say it is that FMD 3d printer is a rapid prototyping machine which has a component called an extruder which pulls and melts plastic which the machine then lays down.\n\",0.0,0.0\n458,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Josip Ivic,3.767809650974757,4.499836490379483,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.548335113978322,2.880918201452841,Is it necessary to have both hot ends on a dual extruder printer at the same height?,\"I'm thinking of another extruder on my printer, and I'm curious about this one....\n\nIs it necessary to have both hot ends on same height? Why yes / why not? (if there is not)\n\",tbm0115,\"I have a dual extruder Replicator 1 and having the nozzles at the same height is a must and albeit a bit of a struggle otherwise. At one point, I had to disassemble my extruder head and the nozzles didn't line up quite right. There after, printing with the lower one obviously didn't have any troubles, however, printing with the high extruder made it so the lower extruder would scrape the molten plastic layer. This made my surface finish horrible and almost impossible for support structures to be printed.\n\nInstead of fighting with my stock nozzle assembly to get everything perfectly lined up, I just shimmed the one side with some stacks of paper cutouts. This brought my extruders very close to even.\n\nAlso, you'll want to make sure excess plastic is cleaned off of BOTH nozzles when printing with either nozzle. I found that some prints would fail because of a small discharge from a previous print on the other nozzle.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n458,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Josip Ivic,3.767809650974757,4.499836490379483,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.548335113978322,2.880918201452841,Is it necessary to have both hot ends on a dual extruder printer at the same height?,\"I'm thinking of another extruder on my printer, and I'm curious about this one....\n\nIs it necessary to have both hot ends on same height? Why yes / why not? (if there is not)\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"I don't have dual extruder printer myself, but to my understanding having both nozzles leveled at the same height is critical for getting successful prints.\n\nFor typical FDM printers, the lowest point of the end effector should always be the nozzle. If you, for instance, mount a fan lower than the tip of your nozzle, it will eventually collide with the printed object.\n\nThe effect of having unequally leveled nozzle tips for a dual extruder printer will be exactly the same: one of the nozzles will either drag against or collide with the model during print; or, one of the nozzles will be to far away from the model, giving poor layer adhesion. Either way, the result will be sub-optimal.\n\nSo, leveling both nozzles equally is probably a good idea. You might want to have a look at this question on some advice regarding how to do it. \n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n2667,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Josip Ivic,1.726248027126092,4.154678640101863,0.0,2.011441651225199,4.240216107868139,4.7596040015155525,Why can't powder-based 3D printing techniques create enclosed or hollow structures?,\"Metal powders are the fastest-growing segment within the 3D printing materials market, and 3D printing with metal offers a range of highly-sought out characteristics, including immense strength, reduced weight, biocompatibility and corrosion or thermal resistance, making it ideal for high-demand industries such as aerospace, medical, etc.\n\nConventional methods require focusing a very intense energy source, such as a laser or electron beam, across a bed of metal powder, fusing the powder particles together in a pre-determined pattern to create the final 3D structure. \n\nWhile this method does allow for incredibly strong metal 3D structures to be produced, it has its drawbacks, mainly: \n\n\nit is prohibitively expensive and time consuming; \nit does not allow for certain types of architectures, such as those that are hollow and enclosed, and;\nit is limited by the types of compatible metals and alloys that can be used.\n\n\nIf we ignore the cost, why can't we do hollow or enclosed architectures to be printed with this technique?\n\nSource: A closer look at the 12 biggest 3D printing tech innovations of the first half of 2016.\n\",John Sensebe,\"It's not hollow or enclosed structures that are a problem. It's structures that are hollow and enclosed. Think about it. The machine lays down a thin layer of powder, and then a laser fuses some of that powder together to make a shape. Then, it repeats the process for the next layer. If you try to build, for example, a hollow ball, the ball gets created in the middle of the powder, meaning that there will be powder around the outside of the ball and in the inside of the ball, and with the ball completely enclosed, there is no way for the powder that ends up inside the ball to get out. That's why hollow objects printed in this manner must have a hole somewhere to let out the powder contained in the object.\n\nThis is not only true of metal powder, but any 3D printing process that uses a bed of powder or a volume of resin and fuses some of it into a shape. Fused deposition modelling (FDM), the process used by most consumer-level 3D printers, build models in thin air, so only air is trapped inside the printed objects, making the printing of hollow, enclosed objects less of a problem. Of course, one has to deal with gravity. A hollow object might collapse before the filament hardens enough to support its weight.\n\",3.6340916038470805,2.0769199823829045\n421,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dimitri Modderman,4.78385405467542,4.313373037751713,0.0,3.1880595895805834,4.240216107868139,3.585260288142579,Chocolate printing,\"I have seen lots of printers that print chocolate using a syringe with molten chocolate. But, even cooler, would it be possible to print chocolate using some kind of feed system for continuous chocolate printing, so large objects and for a prolonged time, not only lasting the content of one syringe with molten chocolate ?\n\nThings to consider are IMO: \n\n\nHow to keep the chocolate long enough in a molten, viscous state\nenough to print ?\nChocolate needs a tempering temperature, which\nmeans it needs to be around 32-37 degrees celsius, else it doesn't\nshine but gets a dull look (or turns white after a while). \nChocolate\nis food, so you need foodsave equipment in the whole chain that is in\ncontact with the chocolate.\n\n\nMaybe a peristaltic pump that keeps pumping the molten chocolate to the extruder, which might be a valve that can be open/closed from G-code ?\n\",amra,\"Update: I found a nice article about chocolate printing: https://all3dp.com/2/chocolate-3d-printer-all-you-need-to-know/\n\n\n\nYou are searching for chocolate extruder. I did not find one, which would fulfill all your requirements. You have to adapt each solution.\n\nZmorph3d Liquid paste extruder\n\n\nhttps://zmorph3d.com/cake-and-chocolate-extruder/\n\n\nAccording video on the page you insert chocolate in liquid form. That could be solved with heated chocolate container. \n\nSyringe based extruders\n\n\nhttp://www.open-electronics.org/3drag-is-now-printing-with-chocolate/\nhttp://richrap.blogspot.de/2012/04/universal-paste-extruder-ceramic-food.html\nhttp://www.instructables.com/id/Chocolate-Extruder-for-Ultimaker/\n\n\nYou can use a 2 liters syringe. And if this is not enough then you can refill during print.\n\nConvert pellet extruder\n\nPrinting from chocolate pellets is simpler then printing from plastic pellets. Therefore if you use foodsave parts to build such a extruder then this is useable for you. \n\n\nhttps://www.youmagine.com/designs/universal-pellet-extruder-reprap-3d-printing\n\n\nCooling\n\n\n3DRAG CHOCO (Chocolate 3d printer) Cooling system explained\n\n\nShop\n\nby Open-Electronics\n\n\nExtrude for chocolate\nSyringe Heater for 3Drag chocolate printer\n\n\",3.6340916038470805,0.0\n421,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dimitri Modderman,4.78385405467542,4.313373037751713,0.0,3.1880595895805834,4.240216107868139,3.585260288142579,Chocolate printing,\"I have seen lots of printers that print chocolate using a syringe with molten chocolate. But, even cooler, would it be possible to print chocolate using some kind of feed system for continuous chocolate printing, so large objects and for a prolonged time, not only lasting the content of one syringe with molten chocolate ?\n\nThings to consider are IMO: \n\n\nHow to keep the chocolate long enough in a molten, viscous state\nenough to print ?\nChocolate needs a tempering temperature, which\nmeans it needs to be around 32-37 degrees celsius, else it doesn't\nshine but gets a dull look (or turns white after a while). \nChocolate\nis food, so you need foodsave equipment in the whole chain that is in\ncontact with the chocolate.\n\n\nMaybe a peristaltic pump that keeps pumping the molten chocolate to the extruder, which might be a valve that can be open/closed from G-code ?\n\",StarWind0,\"I would look into what Hershey did for this chocolate printer in junction with 3ds. Behold state of the art Chocolate 3d printing.. The\nCocoJett\n\nThat said there is little said about their tank system.\n\nFar as the actual question it self. There is nothing to facilitate a large pool of continuous chocolate. It would be easy enough to build something that stirred the chocolate and a pump that feeds it in. At that point we are talking about a fair amount of new engineering. One could figure out how to map the E extrusion to a pump that would refill what was spent.\n\nThis section is just a bit of speculation.. \nI wonder. It seems to me that the way to go for XL coco printing would be powder. Bind it with an edible adhesive (hot sugar water maybe?). Have the printer refrigerated. Or just have a simple system that can change out the syringes of coco. Last you could just pause it while you change syringes. \n\",0.0,0.0\n456,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dimitri Modderman,3.452496054252184,5.454052187654011,0.0,6.034324953675596,3.929104701733314,2.9700228978346113,\"How do people load filament, prime the printhead, flush out the old filament when changing colors when using a standalone 3D printer?\",\"I am wondering how people that use standalone 3D printers (printers that have the ability to print autonomously from SD Card) feed in filament, prime the printhead and/or change filaments without a laptop ?\n\nDo the printers have a menu to arrange all these tasks ?\nI often only see the options to preheat the head to a certain temperature, but not to load/unload filament, extrude a small amount etc.\n\nI understand this differs from printer to printer, but still am wondering about this.\n\",amra,\"RepRap based printers use LCD modules with control button and SD card. You can trigger operations like \n\n\nnozzle heating (to change filament)\nextrude filament\nhome axis to caliber bed level\n...\n\n\nMost used LCD modules are:\n\n\nRepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller\n\nRepRapDiscount Smart Controller, see video\n\n\n\nRepRap firmwares (Marlin, Repetier) are supporting it. To get better view on what is supported, take a look on Marlin language file.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n456,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dimitri Modderman,3.452496054252184,5.454052187654011,0.0,6.034324953675596,3.929104701733314,2.9700228978346113,\"How do people load filament, prime the printhead, flush out the old filament when changing colors when using a standalone 3D printer?\",\"I am wondering how people that use standalone 3D printers (printers that have the ability to print autonomously from SD Card) feed in filament, prime the printhead and/or change filaments without a laptop ?\n\nDo the printers have a menu to arrange all these tasks ?\nI often only see the options to preheat the head to a certain temperature, but not to load/unload filament, extrude a small amount etc.\n\nI understand this differs from printer to printer, but still am wondering about this.\n\",David Maulik,\"I have two different printers that can print un-tethered. The first is a Prusa inspired machine with an LCD and the second is a printrbot without an LCD.\n\nThe reprap machine uses a ramps 1.4 board programmed with Marlin that gives me the ability to control loading and unloading of the filament with simple menus. \n\nNot all printers that have the ability to print from SD come with an LCD screen. My printrbot simple metal does not come with an LCD, it is an additional $100.\n\nI am too cheap to buy one so I came up with an extremely low tech way of changing filament. I turn my printer on with an SD card that has an auto0.g file (this tells the board to load and run g-code on start-up), once the printer starts to move I kill the power remove the filament and put new filament into the extruder. I then press the lever to disengage the extruder motor and force the new filament into the hot end until the old color has been purged. Please note this method only works when you are replacing materials that have the same printing temperatures.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n445,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jim,3.618048892289167,4.544184172621917,3.507933925167123,5.199501240805782,3.749318730431847,2.923016721482374,What are some good FOSS or free tools for editing STL files for 3D Printing?,\"I'd like to customize and modify some parts on Thingiverse, beyond just simple scaling for 3D printing.\n\nI've been looking for some tools that convert the STL files into something that is easily edited, but so far all that I've found are really buggy and crash frequently as soon as one loads a reasonably complex model.\n\nAre there any free open source software tools that people can recommend that handle STL importing and editing? If not FOSS, what about just \"\"free or nearly free for hobbyists, ed, non-commercial?\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"If you want to do basic edits to an STL, a program such as MeshMixer might be right for your. It offers the ability to combine and subtract models, add custom supports, and similar, in a fairly straight forward manner.\n\nAn alternative that allows your to do complex editing of STLs would be Autodesk Fusion 360. Here you can import STLs into meshes, which you then may convert into solids for further editing. It is more work to use, but a very flexible solution; you can i.e choose to only convert certain faces to solid, or use the mesh as a reference point for other designs. \n\nAs far as I know, neither of these are FOSS (free and open source), but both are free for non-commercial use.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n445,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jim,3.618048892289167,4.544184172621917,3.507933925167123,5.199501240805782,3.749318730431847,2.923016721482374,What are some good FOSS or free tools for editing STL files for 3D Printing?,\"I'd like to customize and modify some parts on Thingiverse, beyond just simple scaling for 3D printing.\n\nI've been looking for some tools that convert the STL files into something that is easily edited, but so far all that I've found are really buggy and crash frequently as soon as one loads a reasonably complex model.\n\nAre there any free open source software tools that people can recommend that handle STL importing and editing? If not FOSS, what about just \"\"free or nearly free for hobbyists, ed, non-commercial?\n\",Leo Ervin,\"There is no argument that the most successful FOSS 3D editor is Blender. It can both import and export STL files and export to STL or many other formats (DAE, OBJ, 3DS, FBX, DXF, WRL) so you can both use it to edit STL models as well as just use it as a STL converter.\nhttps://www.blender.org/\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n450,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Arden Rasmussen,3.618048892289167,5.191893413452059,0.0,5.199501240805782,2.746326330407206,2.453507803626381,Broken Print Bed,\"I have a Robo 3D. However A while ago, the print bed was fractured, and now it has a long crack cutting it in half. The bed still works because it is held together, by the screws holding the bed to the tracks. So I want to continue using it, because it still is fairly good, the heating element works fine, and a replacement bed is 80$, and I am unsure if the one sold on the RoBo 3D website will be compatible with my printer as I don't have the R1, but a version before that.\n\n\n\nSo my question is:\nHow can I best align the two glass fragments, to provide as flat a print surface as possible, and two how to best hold these two pieces in place, or if it would be best to invest in a new print bed?\n\nEDIT:\nHere is a image of the heating element as well to explain the situation with how it is attached\n\nEDIT:\nThe RoBo 3D team have said that I just need to upgrade my y-axis with a object on thingiverse and then buy their new build plate. So I am going to experiment with a glass replacement, and if that fails to succeed then I will go along with their suggestion, and buy the upgrade. Thanks everyone for their help.\n\",Daniel M.,\"A little chip is fine, but I wouldn't print with that big of a crack. However, that doesn't mean you need to spend $80 on a new sheet of glass.\n\nOption #1- If you want borosilicate glass, you can get a sheet from either McMaster (about $40+shipping for a 10\"\"x10\"\" piece, less for smaller) or from a local glass maker (the price varies a lot, so you should check that also if you want to go that route). However, you won't be able to drill holes (tempered glass will break of you drill a hole). Borosilicate glass has the advantage of being extremely heat-resistant, so it won't break from thermal expansion. If you go this route, you should pick up a few binder clips also to attach the sheet to the heated bed.\n\nOption #2- You might be able to get picture frame glass from a hardware store. It's super cheap (mine was $3 or something from lowes) and they'll often cut it to exact size. You might be able to drill this, but you have to be extremely careful. Sometimes, the hardware store can drill holes in the sheet for you if needed. If you don't want to drill, a few binder clips will work just as well.\n\nJust a note for if you are using binder clips: you might need to (depending on how your hbp is set up) get a piece of glass that is slightly smaller to allow for any bed leveling screws to have room. If you're going with the picture frame glass, you should make sure that the glass will be entirely within the heated part so that there isn't any heat gradient (that's how glass cracks/shatters). \n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n450,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Arden Rasmussen,3.618048892289167,5.191893413452059,0.0,5.199501240805782,2.746326330407206,2.453507803626381,Broken Print Bed,\"I have a Robo 3D. However A while ago, the print bed was fractured, and now it has a long crack cutting it in half. The bed still works because it is held together, by the screws holding the bed to the tracks. So I want to continue using it, because it still is fairly good, the heating element works fine, and a replacement bed is 80$, and I am unsure if the one sold on the RoBo 3D website will be compatible with my printer as I don't have the R1, but a version before that.\n\n\n\nSo my question is:\nHow can I best align the two glass fragments, to provide as flat a print surface as possible, and two how to best hold these two pieces in place, or if it would be best to invest in a new print bed?\n\nEDIT:\nHere is a image of the heating element as well to explain the situation with how it is attached\n\nEDIT:\nThe RoBo 3D team have said that I just need to upgrade my y-axis with a object on thingiverse and then buy their new build plate. So I am going to experiment with a glass replacement, and if that fails to succeed then I will go along with their suggestion, and buy the upgrade. Thanks everyone for their help.\n\",Tomas Sykora,\"IMHO your best bet is to use some kind of a tape. I do not have any experience with robo3dprinter but, I have been using glass with PET tape on in for past 4 years.\n\nI have seen guys using Kapton tape as well. Never tried. \n\nThe main disadvantage on this solution is increasing the bed thickness, I am not sure if you are able to tinker with the Z level endstop, in case not this migh be an issue. \n\nThe other solution you can try is replace your bed with piece of glass and then apply PET tape or any other kind, I am also not sure if you are able to replace the bed print surface of not.\n\nWhen using glass and PET tape, you need to get the surface of PET tape rough using sand paper, and you might have to apply so called Acetone Juice to make sure that your ABS prints will stick to the bed.\n\nAcetone juice is basically Aceton with disolved piece of Natural ABS plastic this created sticky layer on your bed that helps to hold your prints on the bed while printing.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n461,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,pwghost,3.618048892289167,5.184211540224073,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.4319460411998994,Printing multiple materials with different properties on the same device,\"I have searched the internet and found various 3D printers with different advantages and materials which they can print - some even multi color. \n\nHowever, I cannot seem to find a printer that can print multiple material with different properties; for instance, simultaneously printing PLA and metal. Is there currently such a printer available or in development? \n\",Adam Davis,\"Yes and no.\n\n\n for instance simultanious printing of plas plastic and lets say metal. Is such a printer available or in development ?\n\n\nPractically speaking, no. Metal printing requires significantly higher temperatures than plastic, and the two processes are so incompatible that there is currently no good solutions that would allow one printer to print both in the same print. Whether extruding filament, laser sintering, or curing resins, the materials involved have to be fairly similar in processing environment to print adjacent to each other without issue.\n\nThere are many printers that are intended to print multiple materials by changing the print head. You might, for instance, use a ceramic paste extruder, then change the head for the next print using plastic.\n\nThere have been efforts in the past, and some efforts are ongoing, to resolve this. For instance wood's metal, a low temperature alloy, can be poured at temperatures compatible with plastics, so it's possible to create a printer that prints plastic, leaving troughs or voids in the plastic, then the same printer during this print would pour molten woods metal into these areas, which then solidifies into an internal metal structure. These are intended for circuitry and electrical use, however significant problems still exist because the thermal expansion differences in these materials lead to stress and result in poor reliability.\n\nSo while some of these processes are being developed, this is still just in the experimental stage and there are significant problems to overcome before printers can print widely different materials in a single printing session.\n\nOf course you can find plastics with such a wide range of characteristics that they can be seen as printing different materials. Plastics imbued with wood fibers, printing next to conductive plastics with graphite, printing next to flexible plastics, etc, etc are now possible, and depending on your requirements they may meet your needs.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n461,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,pwghost,3.618048892289167,5.184211540224073,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.4319460411998994,Printing multiple materials with different properties on the same device,\"I have searched the internet and found various 3D printers with different advantages and materials which they can print - some even multi color. \n\nHowever, I cannot seem to find a printer that can print multiple material with different properties; for instance, simultaneously printing PLA and metal. Is there currently such a printer available or in development? \n\",tbm0115,\"For the most part, you can achieve this with a dual extruding printer. However, dual extrusion is best for either multi-color printing or printing with support material. For example, printing the part with PLA and all support material with water soluble PVA.\n\nIn practice, printing two completely different materials is not sound engineering practice as they have the potential to not make a well enough bond to each other. So, the case of pure metal and pure plastic, the two materials will not bond well because they will not both be in the same physical state together at any point in time.\n\nHowever, your best option would be a printer like the MarkForged which uses a composite approach by combining a common binder (ABS, PLA, Nylon, etc.) and a strong material such as Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, or Kevlar.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n470,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Michael McGlothlin,4.451824357011064,5.668348191666758,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,4.376800063013361,3.510136716284225,Bed leveling method?,\"Is there a good method or tool to level the bed of 3D printers? I find myself making small adjustments a lot and it's mostly just trial-and-error. A normal bubble level is of limited help and trying to figure out if the head is the thickness of a sheet of paper from the bed in all corners is beyond the capability of my vision.\n\",TextGeek,\"The easiest way I know of (unless your printer has a Z-probe and automatic leveling), is to bring the nozzle(s) down fairly close to the bed (maybe 1/4\"\" or so), and then move it around while watching for anyplace that doesn't look even. Adjust the bed until it seems even. You can just eyeball it, or use a ruler or object to measure.\n\nThen bring the nozzle down closer, and repeat. Each time you move it closer, you'll be able to eyeball more accurately.\n\nOnce you're quite close, pull out a 3x5 card, or business card, or similar, and move the nozzle up or down until the card just fits between the nozzle and the bed (with no great pressure, but no space either). Again, move the head all around the bed, and do any remaining (tiny) adjustments so it's the same everywhere.\n\nOf course if the bed is at all warped this will be much harder, or even impossible. So before starting, put a good-quality straightedge along it to make sure it's actually flat.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n470,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Michael McGlothlin,4.451824357011064,5.668348191666758,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,4.376800063013361,3.510136716284225,Bed leveling method?,\"Is there a good method or tool to level the bed of 3D printers? I find myself making small adjustments a lot and it's mostly just trial-and-error. A normal bubble level is of limited help and trying to figure out if the head is the thickness of a sheet of paper from the bed in all corners is beyond the capability of my vision.\n\",Leo Ervin,\"There are several ways.\n\n1) Simplest is the business card/paper method.\n\nThis video shows how simple it is: Leveling the platform\n\nYou should feel the same amount of resistance between the hotend and the bed on all sides. On some 3D printers there are 3 screws holding the bed (eg. Solidoodle) and on others there are 4 screws on each edge (e.g. Prusa i3).\nOn some 3D printers you need to rotate a screw with a screwdriver to adjust it (e.g. Solidoodle 3) and on some you have a nut (mostly wing nut) (e.g. Solidoodle 4).\n\nI find most people move the extruder around when adjusting the bed by controlling the motors. I think the quicker way is stopping the motors (in Repetier Host it's the \"\"Stop Motor\"\" button) and moving the gantry by hand.\n\nTutorial: 3D printing guides - Bed leveling\n\n2) Second one is just more advanced version of the above. You use a dial indicator/ micrometer attached to your extruder and make sure the number on the dial is as close as possible on all edges.\n\nLevel the Print Bed on a RepRap / RepStrap 3D Printer with a Mitutoyo Dial Test Indicator\n\nMicrometer op 3D printer\n\nThere are also digital versions of this tool.\n\nYou might need to print or make some other way a piece to be able to attach a micrometer to the extruder (there might be one for your 3D printer on Thingiverse already).\n\nNow, remember I mentioned that you adjust the height of the edges of the print bed with a screw/nut? Well, since there is a lot of vibration during print those tend to get out of place and that might explain why you end up readjusting it over and over again. What I have found to solve this is to use a single drop of Loctite (cyanocrylate glue) in the middle of the nut/screw. A single drop will secure it in place but also not make it impossible to unscrew in the future.\n\n3) Setting up auto-bed leveling on your 3D printer if it's modable enough:\n3D printing guides: Setting up auto bed tramming leveling tilt compensation!.\n\nFinally, if you can't get the bed leveled no matter what, it might be uneven. That's usually caused by warping. Both PCB beds and aluminum beds can get warped. With the former just sandwich a glass bed on top of it and it should be fine. Warped aluminum is pretty hard to flatten. In this extreme situation you might need to get a new aluminum sheet cut and drilled, preferably a mm thicker one which is less likely to warp under the same conditions. I think this happens when you either set the bed temp too high and/or the thickness of the aluminum bed is too small (bad or cheap 3D printer design).\n\",3.7511513460834345,0.0\n505,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chase Westlye,4.451824357011064,7.039761507119423,1.7539669625835614,6.376119179161167,4.620985695623129,2.6553159206313057,Ideal print bed: Glass or Aluminium?,\"Glass is always level, easy to clean, easy to work with.\n\nAluminium allows for the addition of automatic bed leveling with an inductive sensor and distributes heat a little more evenly.\n\nWhen printing mostly ABS and PLA, which one is better?\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"I believe printing directly on aluminium is unwise, simply because it will expand when heated, typically giving the bed a concave or convex shape. Glass, on the other hand, does not (at least not significantly).\n\nAs pointed out in the comments below, the heat expansion of aluminium could potentially be mitigated by increasing the thickness of the bed, as well as heating it evenly. Also, a common solution is to place a glass plate on top of an aluminium bed, at the cost of a slightly longer heat-up time.\n\nIn my experience, printing directly on heated glass can be very practical and give a nice surface finish for some PLA variants and other materials that support it. I don't know if printing directly on aluminium can give similar benefits.\n\",3.9604314711224866,2.0769199823829045\n505,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chase Westlye,4.451824357011064,7.039761507119423,1.7539669625835614,6.376119179161167,4.620985695623129,2.6553159206313057,Ideal print bed: Glass or Aluminium?,\"Glass is always level, easy to clean, easy to work with.\n\nAluminium allows for the addition of automatic bed leveling with an inductive sensor and distributes heat a little more evenly.\n\nWhen printing mostly ABS and PLA, which one is better?\n\",Craig Anderson,\"I use a 200 mm x 200 mm aluminum bed over an aluminum heated plate. It is attached by bolts in the corners. I use a proximity probe to run a leveling program and I print on the aluminum. I don't see where my bed is bowing or causing attachment problems. I run the leveling program with the plate at temperature (110 °C) and any bowing is handled by the software. It works very well with ABS. I haven't used much PLA and am still experimenting.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n513,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chase Westlye,5.291027456384213,6.94165591770076,5.5599437263974645,5.199501240805782,4.240216107868139,3.884726419925141,What air filtration options exist for enclosures?,\"Given the emissions that 3d printing gives off (ABS = styrene and other chemicals, PLA give some off, etc), what options are there to filter the air in the enclosure other than venting the air out of a window?\n\nMore information on the chemicals 3d printing emit:\n\n\nhttp://built-envi.com/portfolio/ultrafine-particle-emissions-from-3d-printers/\n\n\nIt looks like activated carbon filters would be a strong performer for ABS (styrene) and PLA (lactide):\n\n\nhttp://www.sentryair.com/activated-carbon-filter.htm\n\n\nAre there better filtering materials or processes for filtering the air in an enclosure?\n\nHere's an example filter setup:\n\n\nThis fan mount: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:780001\n60mm fans and this filter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XNI5SY4/ref=s9_simh_gw_g201_i5_r\nAnd sandwich the filter on the fan using this fan grill: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11906\n\n\",mrh,\"I was very concerned about this issue when I bought my own 3d printer, so I decided to design fumes extraction solution for this. It is tailored only for my Zortrax M200 but I hope that it is good example of how to solve this problem with limited budget.\n\nhttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1158639\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n513,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chase Westlye,5.291027456384213,6.94165591770076,5.5599437263974645,5.199501240805782,4.240216107868139,3.884726419925141,What air filtration options exist for enclosures?,\"Given the emissions that 3d printing gives off (ABS = styrene and other chemicals, PLA give some off, etc), what options are there to filter the air in the enclosure other than venting the air out of a window?\n\nMore information on the chemicals 3d printing emit:\n\n\nhttp://built-envi.com/portfolio/ultrafine-particle-emissions-from-3d-printers/\n\n\nIt looks like activated carbon filters would be a strong performer for ABS (styrene) and PLA (lactide):\n\n\nhttp://www.sentryair.com/activated-carbon-filter.htm\n\n\nAre there better filtering materials or processes for filtering the air in an enclosure?\n\nHere's an example filter setup:\n\n\nThis fan mount: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:780001\n60mm fans and this filter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XNI5SY4/ref=s9_simh_gw_g201_i5_r\nAnd sandwich the filter on the fan using this fan grill: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11906\n\n\",Larry Smith,\"I designed this self-printable filter enclosure. \n\nRather than vent any air outside the printer enclosure, this will recirculate the air within, constantly running the air through the filter while at the same time conserving the heat needed for ABS prints. It's simple, and you can employ more than one of these or, using my design files, extend the size of the cabinet to stack more layers of carbon filtration material. It only employs one inexpensive PC fan to move air. I've found it effective for my purposes, never having to smell ABS prints or suffer eye irritation from them again.\n\nhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2209222\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n512,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BYE,2.8153892694839717,4.564456989521478,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Why does my MKS Base not recognize my thermistors?,\"I recently upgraded my Geeetech Acrylic Prusa i3 with a MKS Base V1.4 and it would not recognize the thermistors (100K {type 1}) even though they worked fine with the Arduino Mega 2560 with the RAMPS shield. \n\nAfter changing the thermistors for the 4th time it began to work, but the model printed was quite distorted. Then without warning it suddenly does not recognize them again. The board does create the USB port, but does not appear to communicate with my computer. \n\nIs the problem more associative with the board or my computer?\n\",amra,\"You should:\n\n\nEnsure that firmware has proper thermistor configuration. For details see this video tutorial.\nVerify that your thermistor works properly. Measure voltage on it. It should be around 5V on this particular board.\nThere is possibility that the board is defective. Replace it.\n\n\nTemperature sensor possibilities for Marlin firmware:\n\n// -2 is thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0)\n// -1 is thermocouple with AD595\n// 0 is not used\n// 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup)\n// 2 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup)\n// 3 is Mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup)\n// 4 is 10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high temp. !!\n// 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (4.7k pullup)\n// 6 is 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup)\n// 7 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 (4.7k pullup)\n// 71 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAF-J01 (4.7k pullup)\n// 8 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup)\n// 9 is 100k GE Sensing AL03006-58.2K-97-G1 (4.7k pullup)\n// 10 is 100k RS thermistor 198-961 (4.7k pullup)\n// 11 is 100k beta 3950 1% thermistor (4.7k pullup)\n// 12 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup) (calibrated for Makibox hot bed)\n// 13 is 100k Hisens 3950 1% up to 300°C for hotend \"\"Simple ONE \"\" & \"\"Hotend \"\"All In ONE\"\"\n// 20 is the PT100 circuit found in the Ultimainboard V2.x\n// 60 is 100k Maker's Tool Works Kapton Bed Thermistor beta=3950\n//\n// 1k ohm pullup tables - This is not normal, you would have to have changed out your 4.7k for 1k\n// (but gives greater accuracy and more stable PID)\n// 51 is 100k thermistor - EPCOS (1k pullup)\n// 52 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (1k pullup)\n// 55 is 100k thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (1k pullup)\n//\n// 1047 is Pt1000 with 4k7 pullup\n// 1010 is Pt1000 with 1k pullup (non standard)\n// 147 is Pt100 with 4k7 pullup\n// 110 is Pt100 with 1k pullup (non standard)\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n514,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lars Pötter,2.528907649931287,3.9666937385261156,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.880918201452841,What is the benefit of the Arduino schield based electronics?,\"Some electronics come as a single PCB. They have CPU and everything on just one board.\n\nOther electronics are a shield for an Arduino. So these are always two boards. The Arduino and the other PCB.\n\nYou probably don't want to exchange the Arduino unless it is broken. Does it break that often or are the two boards just the predecessors of the one board solution?\n\nWhat are the benefits/downsides to having one/two boards?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"There isn't really a big advantage to one solution or the other. The approach of having separate boards means it is more modular and broken parts can be replaced more easily, but electronics don't break on their own: it is almost always user error. If you are even a tiny bit careful when assembling your electronics, you won't ever have anything break and the advantage of having modular electronics is moot. On the other hand, there's no disadvantage to using modular electronics either.\n\nOf course, another advantage of modular electronics is that you can upgrade separate components (for instance, swap in better stepper drivers). The value of this advantage depends on whether you eventually want to upgrade.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n514,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lars Pötter,2.528907649931287,3.9666937385261156,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.880918201452841,What is the benefit of the Arduino schield based electronics?,\"Some electronics come as a single PCB. They have CPU and everything on just one board.\n\nOther electronics are a shield for an Arduino. So these are always two boards. The Arduino and the other PCB.\n\nYou probably don't want to exchange the Arduino unless it is broken. Does it break that often or are the two boards just the predecessors of the one board solution?\n\nWhat are the benefits/downsides to having one/two boards?\n\",Leo Ervin,\"Many 3d printer motherboards are based on Arduino/Atmega microcontroller and just add some stepper motor drivers, MOSFETs and such in a single board. That explains why you use the Arduino IDE to update or modify their firmware.\n\nNow why you would want to use an Arduino + an Arduino shield board like RAMPS? Well if you're not good at electronics, are happy with the cost of your own board, don't care much about upgrades/modding beyond what is possible with your board, maybe you shouldn't, it might be overwhelming.\n\nThere are several advantages with using Arduino with a shield for your 3d printer, \"\"two boards are not just the predecessors of the one board solution\"\", no.\n\n1) It is moddable/exandable/upgradable/has replacable parts.\nIf your printer came with its own motherboard that doesn't have additional or enough pins to add more fans, enclosure lights, a second extruder, an LCD and you want to, it sucks. RAMPS can do that, it has plenty of extra pins.\nIt is upgradable. You want to replace the stepper drivers with a new one? Or you accidentally damaged the one you have? Fear not, you can just replace that instead of the whole motherboard.\nThink if it like other motherboards being PCs on which you can't change the CPU, RAM and GPU.\n\n2) It is here for a long time, you will be able to acquire one for a long time.\nThere isn't just one company making RAMPS or similar sheilds. Sometimes 3d printing companies go out of business or stop producing your particular motherboard. RAMPS is likely here to stay. Because Arduino is very likely here to stay.\n\n3) As said above, not just one company owns or makes RAMPS or other Arduino shields. Besides the possibility of your motherboard not being produced anymore, there's also the advantage of not being at the mercy of one companies pricing and shipping policies. This is true for some other boards as well though.\n\n4) It is possibly cheaper than what have you. I don't want to post a link, but one company right now is selling their derivative of Printrboard for like $180. Check the cost of Arduino Mega, stepper drivers and a RAMPS board yourself, quite a difference. That said, there are some boards which are close in price.\n\n5) It's an Arduino. Why is this a good thing by itself? Because many people who have a 3d printer are tinkerers/makers and they already use Arduino for other projects. It is open source with a rich library to control many things. The modding and upgrades for your 3d printer which can be done with Arduino is another level higher. Or it can be a good learning experience for your future Arduino projects. If on the other hand you already use Arduino and are experienced with it, you might use it just because you know how to control it/fix it better than some specialized board you haven't seen before. Plus for a guy like you your 3d printer's motherboard will be an \"\"off-the-shelf\"\" part, that's nice, right?\n\nVideo on RAMPS: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYJn6FuWOv4\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n542,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lars Pötter,4.926797888702776,5.982349852315633,3.507933925167123,5.199501240805782,5.422994479194246,4.208576161768494,What is the benefit of using an ARM based electronics?,\"Most electronics use micro-controllers like an AVR, but I'm seeing ARM chips in new electronics. ARM chips are said to be more powerful, but in what areas related to 3D printing could this help? What are the features that the AVR struggles with and where an ARM could be better?\n\nHigh Speed movement? Delta printers? Graphic display?\n\nAnd is the AVR really the limitation there?\n\",amra,\"AVR processor has sufficient performance for standard printing. But it lacks performance for \n\n\ndelta printers (see hexafraction answer)\ndisplay menu (it's terribly slow on my RepRap printer which uses ATmega2560)\nweb interface (ethernet)\n\n\nComparison of technical specs should be self explaining. This particular ARM CPU is at least 10x faster opposite to ATmega2560: \n\nCPU ARM-Cortex M3 LPC1769 (used in Smoothieboard)\n\n\nCPU: Cortex-M3, 1 core\narchitecture: ARMv7-M (32-bit)\nfrequency: 96-120 Mhz\nmemory\n\n\nFlash: 512 kB\nRAM: 64 kB \n\n\n\nMicrocontroller ATmega2560\n\n\narchitecture: 8-bit\nfrequency: 16 MHz\nmemory\n\n\nflash Memory 256 KB of which 8 KB used by bootloader\nSRAM: 8 KB\nEEPROM: 4 KB\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n542,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lars Pötter,4.926797888702776,5.982349852315633,3.507933925167123,5.199501240805782,5.422994479194246,4.208576161768494,What is the benefit of using an ARM based electronics?,\"Most electronics use micro-controllers like an AVR, but I'm seeing ARM chips in new electronics. ARM chips are said to be more powerful, but in what areas related to 3D printing could this help? What are the features that the AVR struggles with and where an ARM could be better?\n\nHigh Speed movement? Delta printers? Graphic display?\n\nAnd is the AVR really the limitation there?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"3D printer controllers have to do a lot of stuff very, very fast. Performing kinematics and dynamics calculations while sending many thousands of precisely-synchronized step pulses per second is really, really hard. The 8bit AVR line of microcontrollers used in older 3D printer controllers is basically a late-1990s era Mr Coffee processor. They are completely, utterly maxed out on processor time just executing basic printing functions in simple (eg Cartesian) printers, and adding additional calculation load will bog them down and cause slowdowns, stuttering, pausing, and so on. \n\n\"\"But my 8bit printer works fine,\"\" you say. No, it doesn't. Your print performance is limited by it, whether you realize it or not. Slicers now automatically hide a lot of the firmware's performance shortcomings from you. For example, the standard practice of greatly slowing down print speeds on perimeters is largely a result of 8bit processors having inadequate resources for two things:\n\n\nPerforming centripetal acceleration calculations for curves\nacross multiple gcode segments \nKeeping up with gcode transmission/processing and motion planning for gcode with lots of very small segments, such as in organic models or smooth arcs\n\n\nWhen presented with a series of very small segments in a smooth arc or complex curve, the 8bit firmware will likely choke on the required command processing rate and introduce stuttering to the print. These incredibly brief pauses allow residual pressure in the extruder to push out some extra plastic, making a little zit on the print. So most slicers automatically decimate curves and output gcode with reduced resolution to lighten the load on the firmware. Problem solved, right?\n\nBut there's another issue -- the GRBL motion control algorithms underlying all the major open source 3D printer controllers were designed with lots of shortcuts and hacks to allow 8bit processors to execute fast enough. For example, the basic algorithm only looks at the speed or velocity change at the corner between two segments, and uses that to decide when to decelerate/accelerate along the direction of motion. It does not calculate or consider centripetal/radial acceleration whatsoever. This is a really effective hack when printing boxy, low-res models, but it fails miserably on smooth curves with lots of little segments. The firmware does not detect any appreciable velocity change at the corner of any two nearly-linear segments within the faceted curve, and thus does not slow down for the curve. So complex geometry is effectively printed at constant velocity, with no acceleration.\n\nPrinting complex perimeters unaccelerated means the commanded feedrate must be very low to get good quality. Most printers are limited to about 40mm/s or less on complex perimeters, despite being able to run perhaps 80-120mm/s on low-complexity infill before hitting other speed limits.\n\nBetween the command processing rate limits and motion planner shortcomings required by low power processors, print speeds must be much lower in practice than is strictly required by the physics and printer hardware. This all comes from 8bit processors. The workarounds and best practices to deal with this problem are so deeply baked into the toolchains and ecosystem that very few people realize there is even a problem. But it's a real limit that can be overcome: a high-speed processor running a more rigorous motion planner could generate higher average print speeds with better print quality. \n\nThat said, the ARM-based firmwares are only slowly moving towards more advanced motion planners. This is a big development area right now that is actually driving an upcoming shift away from low-end ARMs like the Cortex M3 towards even faster processors. It's actually not all that hard to max out an 84 MHz Arduino Due by piling on a bunch of firmware features. \n\nThe use of 8bit processors also makes printers LOUDER. The biggest consumer of processor time in a typical 8bit printer is the stepper interrupt that fires the step pulses to make the motors move. It is quite typical for >60% of all clock cycles on an Atmega AVR to go to firing step pulses. Because this occurs as an interrupt, other processing tasks that the printer must perform -- like acceleration calculations and heater control -- get squeezed into the brief spaces between stepper interrupt events. \n\nWithout careful firmware design, the step pulses will completely \"\"crowd out\"\" other functionality like LCD display updates and acceleration calculations. In order to allow higher motion rates without using all the processor resources, 8bit firmwares have a mode called \"\"step doubling\"\" that fires two (or four, or eight) step pulses per stepper interrupt so that half (or a quarter, or an eighth) as many stepper interrupts can be used to produce the same motion speed. This practice de-bottlenecks the processor, but it causes rougher and louder motor motion because the step pulses are fired in bursts rather than a constant frequency. In effect, the microstepping level of the motor is functionally dropped to a coarser mode when the stepper interrupt fires double or quad steps. So the motors get louder, less precise, and in extreme cases may have problems with resonance. \n\nAn interesting side effect is that if you switch a Marlin-based printer from 1/16 microstepping to 1/32 microstepping, and keep the same print speeds, the firmware will simply start step-doubling, dropping your effective microstepping level right back down to 1/16.\n\nARM-based firmwares also use step doubling, but the allowable step rates are typically ~8 times higher before double/quad stepping is used. That can mean higher speeds and/or smoother motion. \n\nAnother issue with 8bit AVRs is the lack of hardware floating point and need to spend many clock cycles on high-precision calculations or handling very large numbers. Delta kinematics, auto-leveling functions, calculating moves with extremely high step counts for large printers, and other advanced functionality all take a lot of clock cycles on an 8bit processor. Poor firmware design or carelessly adding a feature that requires a few extra square roots and trig functions can completely bog down the processor. This kind of feature creep and code bloat has seriously impacted Marlin's performance over time as people ask more and more of the old AVR. \n\nIn comparison, a 32bit processor doesn't just have a faster clock and more clock cycles, it is also able to do much more complex math in fewer clock cycles, because it has dedicated hardware functionality that takes care of many of the steps an 8bit processor must do in software. \n\nDo 8bit processors work? Sure, they work surprisingly well for what they are and what we ask of them. But they unquestionably limit the performance and features of modern 3D printers. Even today's current generation of 32bit processors is already being maxed out by high speed printers and math-heavy features. The 8bit processor is already two generations behind what would qualify as a \"\"modern\"\" 3D printer controller. \n\",4.647795820590225,2.0769199823829045\n572,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lars Pötter,3.618048892289167,5.255509840955833,0.0,2.011441651225199,4.376800063013361,4.912918248458232,What is the best length of the melting zone in the hotend?,\"There are many hot end designs out thee and one difference is the length of the melting zone. \n\nThe melting zone is that part of the hotend where the pushed in filament is heated up and therefore starts to melt. Is it better to have a short melting zone, or a long melting zone? What are advantages of each solution. And are there materials that benefit from a short/long melting one more than others?\n\",amra,\"Short melting zone melts material in small amount which is suitable for thin layers with small nozzles. In opposite long melting zone can heat big amount of filament which is needed for fast printing and thick layers. \n\nshort melting zone\n\n\nless amount of melted material\nthin layer heights\nquality printing with details\ngive more precise volume control with less flow/pressure lag and better retraction performance (thx @Ryan-Carlyle)\nnozzles: 0.25-0.8mm (available for E3Dv6)\n\n\nlong melting zone\n\n\nmore amount of melted material\nthick layer heights\nfast printing with less details\nnozzles: 0.4-1.2mm (available for E3D Volcano)\n\n\nExample\n\nExample of those hotends are E3Dv6 and E3D Volcano\n\nE3Dv6\n\n\n\nE3D Volcano with much longer melt zone then v6\n\n\n\nSpeed comparison video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PQjwvWoGpk\n\nSpeed comparison graph: \n\n\",3.7511513460834345,2.0769199823829045\n631,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lars Pötter,3.452496054252184,6.07213400288292,4.533938825782293,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.265283966335819,How are delta movements calculated?,\"On a Cartesian printer movements are really simple. If we assume the printer has 100 steps/mm on each axis, then a move of 10mm on a axis is just 1000 Steps on that axis.\n\nMovements that are not aligned with one axis are also simple. Moving from x,y = 0,0 to 10,10 would be 1000 steps on x and y.\n\nOn deltas even for simple moves more than one motor has to move. And just calculating the amount of steps on each axis needed to reach the destination probably gives a curved move.\n\nSo what is the algorithm to calculate the steps for a given move for a delta printer?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"I am describing how this is done in the Marlin firmware.\n\nThe first step is to split a linear movement from (x, y, z) to (x', y', z') into many discrete segments. To this end, the amount of time the move would take at a given speed is calculated, and the value delta_segments_per_second is used to calculate the number of segments used.\n\nThis is done in the function prepare_move_delta in the file Marlin_main.cpp. The endpoints of each of these segments is then passed to the function calculate_delta:\n\nvoid calculate_delta(float cartesian[3]) {\n //reverse kinematics.\n // Perform reversed kinematics, and place results in delta[3]\n // The maths and first version has been done by QHARLEY . Integrated into masterbranch 06/2014 and slightly restructured by Joachim Cerny in June 2014\n\n float SCARA_pos[2];\n static float SCARA_C2, SCARA_S2, SCARA_K1, SCARA_K2, SCARA_theta, SCARA_psi;\n\n SCARA_pos[X_AXIS] = cartesian[X_AXIS] * axis_scaling[X_AXIS] - SCARA_offset_x; //Translate SCARA to standard X Y\n SCARA_pos[Y_AXIS] = cartesian[Y_AXIS] * axis_scaling[Y_AXIS] - SCARA_offset_y; // With scaling factor.\n\n #if (Linkage_1 == Linkage_2)\n SCARA_C2 = ((sq(SCARA_pos[X_AXIS]) + sq(SCARA_pos[Y_AXIS])) / (2 * (float)L1_2)) - 1;\n #else\n SCARA_C2 = (sq(SCARA_pos[X_AXIS]) + sq(SCARA_pos[Y_AXIS]) - (float)L1_2 - (float)L2_2) / 45000;\n #endif\n\n SCARA_S2 = sqrt(1 - sq(SCARA_C2));\n\n SCARA_K1 = Linkage_1 + Linkage_2 * SCARA_C2;\n SCARA_K2 = Linkage_2 * SCARA_S2;\n\n SCARA_theta = (atan2(SCARA_pos[X_AXIS], SCARA_pos[Y_AXIS]) - atan2(SCARA_K1, SCARA_K2)) * -1;\n SCARA_psi = atan2(SCARA_S2, SCARA_C2);\n\n delta[X_AXIS] = SCARA_theta * SCARA_RAD2DEG; // Multiply by 180/Pi - theta is support arm angle\n delta[Y_AXIS] = (SCARA_theta + SCARA_psi) * SCARA_RAD2DEG; // - equal to sub arm angle (inverted motor)\n delta[Z_AXIS] = cartesian[Z_AXIS];\n}\n\n\nThis function takes care of the delta geometry and calculations needed to convert the (x,y,z) coordinates of the segment endpoints to corresponding positions for the carriages. The translated coordinates are then passed to plan_buffer_line, which calculates the steps needed for each stepper motor and actually makes these steps happen.\n\nThe exact kinematics used in this function are explained in much more detail at the Marlin github.\n\nWhat is important to note is that plan_buffer_line moves the carriages linearly, and the printhead thus describes an arc and not a straight line. A straight line move is thus approximated by many small arcs.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n631,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lars Pötter,3.452496054252184,6.07213400288292,4.533938825782293,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.265283966335819,How are delta movements calculated?,\"On a Cartesian printer movements are really simple. If we assume the printer has 100 steps/mm on each axis, then a move of 10mm on a axis is just 1000 Steps on that axis.\n\nMovements that are not aligned with one axis are also simple. Moving from x,y = 0,0 to 10,10 would be 1000 steps on x and y.\n\nOn deltas even for simple moves more than one motor has to move. And just calculating the amount of steps on each axis needed to reach the destination probably gives a curved move.\n\nSo what is the algorithm to calculate the steps for a given move for a delta printer?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"There are two main special steps to the technique used by most open-source 3d printer controllers:\n\n\nDivide each linear gcode segment into lots of very small subsegments (\"\"Segmentation\"\")\nUse some basic trigonometry or the pythagorean theorem to tie extruder position to carriage height for each of the three towers (\"\"Inverse Kinematics\"\") \nto find the target position for each small segment\n\n\nThe inverse kinematics are surprisingly simple. A virtual 90 degree triangle is constructed from two known lengths to solve for the unknown third length: \n\n\nThe fixed delta arm length is the hypotenuse of the triangle\nThe horizontal distance between the column joints and end-effector joints is calculated from the XY coordinates of the nozzle and the fixed position of the column, to determine the length of the lower side of the triangle\nThe length of the upper side of the triangle is calculated from the previous two via the pythagorean theorem\nThe length of the upper side is added to the nozzle Z height to get the necessary carriage height\n\n\nI think the best open-source reference here is Steve Grave's Rostock Kinematics document, rev3 available for download here: https://groups.google.com/d/msg/deltabot/V6ATBdT43eU/jEORG_l3dTEJ\nSome relevant pictures:\n\n\n\nThese inverse kinematics calculations are performed for each carriage to get a \"\"carriage space\"\" target position, and this is performed for every path sub-segment.\n\nThe results from these steps can then be reinserted back into the standard linear path interpolation techniques for the printer, in which it fires steps in the necessary ratios and at the necessary rates to produce the desired straight-line motion and acceleration/velocity profile. (How THAT is done is a different question.)\n\nThe net effect is that the printer will move through a series of small \"\"linear\"\" carriage movements (linear meaning constant* speed with respect to time) that collectively approximate the necessary curved (quadratic position with respect to time) carriage motions required to produce a straight-line end-effector move.\n\n*(Constant speed before acceleration slowdowns are applied in order to obey dynamics constraints, anyway. Again, that's the subject of a different question.)\n\nSegmentation is very similar to the process of using a polygon to approximate a circle. If the facets are small enough, the polygon is a good approximation. Higher Segmentation rates produce less path-following error. The primary conceptual difference between drawing circle arcs and Delta motion paths is that the so-called \"\"faceted arc\"\" with Delta Segmentation is constructed in height-vs-time coordinates instead of the X-vs-Y coordinates you'd use to draw a circle on a computer screen. \n\nThis system is used in large part because support for Delta style printers was originally bolted onto GRBL-based motion planners which were written exclusively for straight-line motion paths in Cartesian printers. It was a relatively minimal modification to the existing codebase compared to implementing full quadratic path interpolation.\n\nTechniques have evolved over the years. And alternate approaches are often used: for example, the dc42 fork of RepRapFirmware performs exact path-following without segmentation, by recalculating the proper time for the next step after every step. This is functionally equivalent to approximating a circle with a polygon facet count so high that every pixel on the screen gets its own facet. So it is exactly as accurate as the positioning resolution of the motors allows. The downside is that this segmentation-free technique is fairly processor-intensive, so it only works on relatively fast controllers, not the older 8bit Atmega AVR that powers most existing consumer/hobbyist printers today. \n\nOther techniques are possible. The academic parallel robotics control literature is a whole other world of mathematical techniques and complexity in order to produce generalized control algorithms that work for a wide range of robot mechanisms. The version we use in open-source 3d printers is quite simple and application-specific in comparison. \n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n898,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lars Pötter,2.8153892694839717,4.1256204973342365,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,How to compensate for bad quality filament?,\"Bad filament with changing diameter causes an uneven flow of plastic out of the nozzle. Besides buying very high quality filament (do we really want to be dependent on professional Filament producers?), what other ideas and methods could be used to mitigate the differences in diameter?\n\nCould a pellet extruder be a solution?\n\",kamuro,\"I am only going to answer the part of the question about how to improve the results from low-quality filament:\n\nThere have already been projects going on dealing with the issue of varying filament diameter. A sensor that detects the filament's diameter and sends its value to the printers firmware can compensate for the varying volume of the filament pushed into the hotend by simply changing the extrusion speed. You could think of an extrusion multiplier or a change in the steps/mm value. Of course this has to be calibrated for the distance the filament needs to travel from measurement to hotend.\n\nA good first read can be found in the following project:\nhttp://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,222517\n\nAnd the corresponding Thing page:\nhttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:454584\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n927,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lars Pötter,2.8153892694839717,4.020672661736004,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,How does the Filament production process work?,\"What are the steps in the production process that factories that produce filament have to take to get from pellets to a full spool of filament.\n\nWhich of these steps are critical for quality (thickness, roundness, long shelf life,..) ?\n\",Josip Ivic,\"Each step is critical for quality. It's refined plastic mass. And in oil-based-products, every step is crucial for quality.\n\nIn this vieo, everything is explained.\n\",0.0,0.0\n927,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lars Pötter,2.8153892694839717,4.020672661736004,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,How does the Filament production process work?,\"What are the steps in the production process that factories that produce filament have to take to get from pellets to a full spool of filament.\n\nWhich of these steps are critical for quality (thickness, roundness, long shelf life,..) ?\n\",Barafu Albino,\"I do my own filaments and its pretty simple. The real key for quality is stability of everything. The temperature, the movement of the air around cooling part, the extrusion force, both internal and external. It is funny to watch how I have several atm pressure inside my extruder, yet the gust of wind outside the room changes the outside pressure enough to affect filament. \n\nYet I manage to keep my tolerances +- 0.05 mm which is enough for everything but miniature printing. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n1109,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lars Pötter,4.255155677057378,6.6220126210206,2.7799718631987322,5.646830619998737,4.240216107868139,2.8086301675739853,Which endstops are most precise?,\"I have seen mechanical (micro switch), optical and magnetic(magnet + hall sensor) end stops.\n\nAre there any differences in how exact they switch at the right location? If so which are the most precise?\n\",tbm0115,\"If you take a look at the RepRap Wiki, they briefly explain these three switches:\n\n\nMechanical\n\n\n \"\"Mechanical Endstops are the most basic form of endstops, made of an ordinary switch, two wires. Changing the switch state signals the electronics.\n\nOptical\n\n\n \"\"These Optical Endstops observe the light level and reacts to sudden changes.\"\"\n\nMagnetic\n\n\n \"\"These endstops; Hall effect sensors is a transducer that varies its output voltage in response to a magnetic field. Hall effect sensors are used for proximity switching, positioning, speed detection, and current sensing applications.\"\"\n\n\n\nIn regards to your question, it's dependent upon your circumstance. However, most of the time a good 'ol Mechanical Switch is repeatable and serves its purpose well.\n\nI, personally, would place both optical and magnetic switches in the category of a multifunction component. Meaning, both of these types of switches (generally) provide a valuable range for object detection. This can potentially lead (depending on your machine) to a pushed command that tells your machine to slow down when it comes close to the soft stop.\n\nAgain, personally, I would be wary of using an optical endstop with potential white light noise from ambient room lighting or other sources. I could be wrong in my concern for some modules that address these kind of issues.\n\nSo, if we narrow down between mechanical and magnetic:\n - Magnetic would provide a gentler approach, reducing (potentially) the amount of wear\n - However, I'm assuming, magnetic switches require \"\"dialing in\"\" depending on the components used in the sensor. This could lead to an undesired range that the sensor is triggered.\n - Mechanical switches are simple. They're either touching or not touching (on or off)\n - A possible pro (or con) is the ability to manipulate the trigger manually, more easily. I've run into a situation a few times where I needed to manually trigger the endstop as part of a troubleshooting step. But, if you accidentally bump your endstop while the machine is running, no good.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1109,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lars Pötter,4.255155677057378,6.6220126210206,2.7799718631987322,5.646830619998737,4.240216107868139,2.8086301675739853,Which endstops are most precise?,\"I have seen mechanical (micro switch), optical and magnetic(magnet + hall sensor) end stops.\n\nAre there any differences in how exact they switch at the right location? If so which are the most precise?\n\",FarO,\"Thomas Sanladerer performed exactly the comparison you ask. Check the whole video.\n\nThe result is that inductive sensors are the most accurate, but they are highly dependent on the bed material chosen.\n\nMechanical switches (bare, no metallic arm) are about as accurate and keep the same accuracy with every bed material (however you need a mechanism to retract them, which may or may not decrease the accuracy).\n\nOther sensors are less accurate.\n\nIn any case, most of them are already far better than required, since anything below 50 microns is fine and basically all of them reach that accuracy.\n\nChoose based on other factors such as weight, installation, price. Inductive, after a calibration based on your specific bed, may be the easiest since they need no retraction, but they are bulky. BLtouch is probably the second choice, mechanical microswitches the third one.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n516,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Doug Richardson,3.767809650974757,4.219475624539356,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,What parameters affect cylinder regularity?,\"I'm printing cylindrical pins for a spool holder, but all my pins have irregularities on the external surface of the cylinders (see photo for partially printed pin with irregularities).\n\nIt's hard to tell for sure, but it appears that the hot end will occasionally move a piece of soft plastic it previously laid down.\n\nI've tried decreasing print speed, travel speed, and layer height but I still get the irregularities.\n\nWhat parameters are most likely to effect cylinder regularity?\n\n\n\",tbm0115,\"This is probably a result of bad quality filament. If you haven't changed much in your setups, haven't changed slicers, but may have changed spools, then this might be the result. I would try using another spool and perhaps switch suppliers. I know it's expensive and there seems to be a stigma around it, but MakerBot Industries provides quality PLA (some ABS also).\n\nOther than that, you've done some of what I would suggest in this case which are the following:\n\n\nSpeeds\nLayer height\n\n\nMy only other suggestions would be:\n\n\nCheck how level your build plate is\nCheck material requirements. ie ABS is ideal between 230-240C according to MSDS with about 110C build plate temp, PLA between 210-230C. Sometimes too hot of a hotend can result in overextrusion or ooze.\nIf the cylinder is smaller, try changing your slicing settings to have a time minimum for each layer. In my experience, a material like ABS will begin to flare out with variations in the print environment. When the material flares out, as the nozzle comes across the area again, the flared areas will be pushed aside. If you adjust your slicing settings to about 15 seconds (refer to this calculator), then the material will have time to cool slightly from its plastic state. You can cheat this slightly by adding another object somewhere further on the plate with the same height, since the time it takes to rapid to the area and print the layer might be enough time for cooling.\n\n\nI would also recommend doing some in depth maintenance to eliminate in obvious problems (such as cleaning your nozzle, rods, belts, etc.)\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n543,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mjones,3.618048892289167,3.1237389567344533,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Dimension SST Printer Broken parts,\"My company has an old Dimension SST printer that is out of commission due to a few broken pieces. \nI have contacted the Stratsys folk and they won't do anything until we purchase a multi-thousand dollar service policy. \nI also have a Makerbot that I can use to create spare parts however, can't find pictures of the original configuration. \nThe broken pieces are the Toggle Bar and Z Foam Sensor and whatever parts used to hold them in place on the head. Toggle Bar circled in red View of my printer where the toggle bar used to be \n\nTwo Questions:\nDoes anyone know of a location to purchase spare parts? \nDoes anyone have detailed pictures (360 view) of the print head they are willing to share so I can recreate the parts/attachments.\n\nThank you so much for any help!\n\",tbm0115,\"Seeing as how no one has been able to find a solution yet and I'm not familiar with your machine, I would recommend reverse engineering the part to the best of your abilities. If you don't have the right tools, try finding a local machine shop and ask if you can use their measuring equipment. Sometimes you might get lucky and they will have something more intuitive than callipers, such as a CNC CMM or CMM Arm. As far as acquiring the part, try asking the machine shop if they can produce it, or get it 3D printed via 3D Hubs, MakeXYZ, or some other peer printing service.\n\nI'm sorry I don't have a more direct solution, but hopefully it at least a general sense of what options you may have.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n548,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,jhch,3.452496054252184,4.016817001487613,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Printing a CV joint,\"Fair warning: I am a complete novice in 3-D printing. This will, hopefully, be the first thing I've ever printed. \n\nI want to make a Constant Velocity Joint for a camera stabilizer I'm making. I've been looking at different options, and it seems that a double cardan joint would be easiest to design/make/print. However, the intended use involves force being applied along the shaft, into the joint, which I think in a double cardan will cause \"\"buckling\"\" (forcing the joint into a 90° zig-zag). \n\nAlso, perhaps I'm wrong, but I don't see it rotating very smoothly (pretty essential for camera stabilization.) \n\nSo my next idea is a Tracta type, with bearings. The question is: \n\nCan you print bearings inside their housing? or do movable parts have to be printed separately? \n\",tbm0115,\"Based on information provided in the comments I can say that yes, you can technically print bearings inside their housing. However, you must consider the capabilities of the technology.\n\nTypically an FDM printer, such as a MakerBot Replicator, can yield undesirable results depending on how small you need the objects and how close each object is to another (ie bearings to the housing/each other). If you have a dual-extruding FDM printer, you could utilize a second support structure material. For example, you could print the bearings/housing in PLA and print the raft/supports using water soluble PVA. This provides a solid structure while printing without worry of having excess material in the housing (defeating the purpose of a bearing).\n\nOn the other hand, using the powder printer is most likely your best solution for creating the bearings (and less frustrating). Naturally, you will not need to worry about support structures as there is support inherently created as the powder is lain out for each layer. You just need to be sure that the tolerance of your model adhere to the capabilities of this machine and its post-processing.\n\nRegardless of which technology you use, be sure that your design incorporates a means of allowing support material to be taken out after the print is complete.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n554,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,MikeCAT,4.030301511886631,5.045314536215836,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,How to upload my works to Thingiverse without making my real name public,\"I want to upload some of my works to Thingiverse without making my real name public (displaying it on the profile page).\n\nI think it is OK to register my name to the site unless the make it public, and it is required by the terms to provide truthful and accurate information.\n\nI tried creating an account on the site, but I deleted it because I couldn't find the way to hide my name (set another one) from the profile page in a short time.\n\nI see some accounts that doesn't seem showing their real name (for example, their name on profile equals to their account ID, or at least not in two parts: first and last name as required on registration), so I guess this is archivable.\n\nexamples:\n\n\nhttp://www.thingiverse.com/Darkcheops/about\nhttp://www.thingiverse.com/ruaridh/about\nhttps://www.thingiverse.com/Torleif/about\n\n\nHow can I set my name for profile page on Thingiverse after registration and logging in?\n\",Martin Carney,\"To change your displayed name (as opposed to username) in Thingiverse:\n\n\nGo to your profile page\nClick \"\"Edit Profile\"\" on the info column on the left\nAt the top, next to \"\"Thingiverse Settings\"\" is another link/tab called \"\"Makerbot Settings\"\". Click that.\nChange the First Name and Last Name fields, and save.\n\n\nNote that neither First nor Last Name is required; if neither is provided, your username will be displayed in place of your display name.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n554,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,MikeCAT,4.030301511886631,5.045314536215836,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,How to upload my works to Thingiverse without making my real name public,\"I want to upload some of my works to Thingiverse without making my real name public (displaying it on the profile page).\n\nI think it is OK to register my name to the site unless the make it public, and it is required by the terms to provide truthful and accurate information.\n\nI tried creating an account on the site, but I deleted it because I couldn't find the way to hide my name (set another one) from the profile page in a short time.\n\nI see some accounts that doesn't seem showing their real name (for example, their name on profile equals to their account ID, or at least not in two parts: first and last name as required on registration), so I guess this is archivable.\n\nexamples:\n\n\nhttp://www.thingiverse.com/Darkcheops/about\nhttp://www.thingiverse.com/ruaridh/about\nhttps://www.thingiverse.com/Torleif/about\n\n\nHow can I set my name for profile page on Thingiverse after registration and logging in?\n\",MalphasWats,\"You can put whatever name you want in when you make an account - You decide what your name is, people go by pseudonyms in 'real life' all the time, this is perfectly acceptable. There are actually very few places where you have a legal obligation to provide your name as it appears on your birth certificate. Opening a Thingiverse account is not one of them.\n\nTo answer the other part of your question, yes, it is possible to change the name displayed after you have created your account. I would be surprised if they bother to actually keep an archive of past names though.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n557,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Marviel,3.0576060275493275,2.917283834062601,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Autodesk Spark Print Manager Operating Systems?,\"What operating systems are available for running the Autodesk Spark Print Manager? (https://spark.autodesk.com/developers/reference/printer-manufacturers/integrate-your-printer/integrate-your-printer-model)\n\nI'm finding the documentation a little difficult to parse. It does seem that there are only build options for Windows or Mac, but I want to confirm.\n\nThanks!\n\",amra,\"I checked https://spark.autodesk.com/developers/reference/desktop-applications/print-manager. It seems that Print manager is a application written in JavaScript and its source code is available on github. \n\nSo you have to install node.js to run it. So you can use all major OS (win, mac, linux, ...).\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n573,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Glasseyed,3.618048892289167,3.4985313852019835,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,\"Gnarly filament: just one of those things, or grounds for complaint?\",\"everyone.\n\nI'm a relative newcomer to 3D printing, so I don't know what constitutes an unacceptably bad spool of filament.\n\nAbout 1/6 of the way into a roll of PETG (and maybe 4 hours into a 6-hour print), an over/under wrap brought things to a screeching halt. I aborted the print, then snipped the filament and started unspooling it, looking for more cross-wraps. I found a ton of them, along with a ton of kinks.\n\nI stopped about 1/3 of the way into the spool, still finding kinks and cross-wraps, and said to heck with it. The only way to use it would have been to run the entire length onto another spool, carefully avoiding cross-wraps, and hope the kinks wouldn't affect the print quality.\n\nI complained to the supplier but never even got a reply, so now I'm wondering if this is just one of those things I can expect from time to time. Any thoughts & opinions would be much appreciated.\n\nCheers,\n\nGlasseyed\n\",Eric Johnson,\"Filament should come off of the roll without overlapping itself. That being said depending on what you paid for it would determine if you should complain. Normally you get what you pay for. If you paid \\$10 for it, I would think that is why it was so cheap, but if you paid >\\$25 it should be nice stuff.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n573,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Glasseyed,3.618048892289167,3.4985313852019835,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,\"Gnarly filament: just one of those things, or grounds for complaint?\",\"everyone.\n\nI'm a relative newcomer to 3D printing, so I don't know what constitutes an unacceptably bad spool of filament.\n\nAbout 1/6 of the way into a roll of PETG (and maybe 4 hours into a 6-hour print), an over/under wrap brought things to a screeching halt. I aborted the print, then snipped the filament and started unspooling it, looking for more cross-wraps. I found a ton of them, along with a ton of kinks.\n\nI stopped about 1/3 of the way into the spool, still finding kinks and cross-wraps, and said to heck with it. The only way to use it would have been to run the entire length onto another spool, carefully avoiding cross-wraps, and hope the kinks wouldn't affect the print quality.\n\nI complained to the supplier but never even got a reply, so now I'm wondering if this is just one of those things I can expect from time to time. Any thoughts & opinions would be much appreciated.\n\nCheers,\n\nGlasseyed\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"Sorry to say it, but MOST wrap-unders are caused by end-users releasing the free end of the filament when handling the spool. It is mathematically impossible to introduce a knot during initial spooling, and all the reputable filament vendors these days have pretty careful free-end control when the spool is taken off the spooler and sent to packaging.\n\nWhere you may get knots straight from the filament vendor is if they're respooling very carelessly and let go of the free end. You should only see this with very cheap filament. \n\nSo, it's possible that your vendor messed up, but you should probably rule out your own handling practices first. It's not hard to prevent losing the free end. The nicer spool styles these days have holes on the side-flanges for securing the free end during handling/storage. Or you can print one of many, many filament clip designs from Thingiverse or your favorite model site. \n\nIf you're very careful with handling and still get knots, switch suppliers. Anyone sloppy enough to repeatedly mis-handle new spools is likely also using extremely cheap material, and there have been a lot of anecdotal reports of very nasty industrial chemicals being mixed into the colorants of low-cost filament. \n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n577,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,aida_athny,2.1782824847157594,4.530631692456972,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How to create a web-based PHP that can print to multiple printer(when idle) using silent printing,\"The print job connect to the database. When there is an idle printer, the print job directly goes to it. It need to connect with print server too. \nHow do i start? Can someone help me...\nThank you.\n\",tbm0115,\"I'd recommend starting with connecting your printer(s) to OctoPi. From there, try to find either an API or way to create your own plugin. Then just set up a workstation that will manage your print queue and delegate the prints using some form of web request.\n\nI personally don't recommend creating your own slicing engine. If you want to do everything directly from \"\"the workstation\"\" try looking into Skeinforge (most popular from ReplicatorG slicer), Cura (I believe from Ultimaker), and/or Miracle Grue (from MakerWare) as your slicing engine. You can most documentation/source on GitHub.\n\nIn the meantime, try to narrow down the general sense of how you want to accomplish this and edit your question. As a reminder for more technical questions regarding code, please use Stack Overflow. For example, \"\"How to create/use REST request?\"\"\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n582,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ro Siv,3.0576060275493275,5.807285868097041,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.859356439026359,How small can I expect FDM 3d printers to print?,\"I was wondering if this printer(daVinci 1.0) had the ability to print very small objects, like insects, coins, or small nuts. (About the size of 1 -2 cubic centimeters)\n\nHere is a link to the printer on the website.\n\nThe reason I ask is someone asked me if it was able to, but I have not been able to access the actual 3-D printer for use at this time, just manuals which I have looked through.\n\nSo if the 3-D printer was able to print small objects, would a novice be able to do such a thing?\n\nPlease let me know if any additional details are needed. \n\",Tormod Haugene,\"Strictly by looking at the technical specifications of an FDM printer, there are a few things to note regarding the maximum print quality you can expect to achieve: \n\n\nThe minimum layer height - here given to be 0.1 mm\nThe nozzle diameter - here given to be 0.4 mm\n\n\nMinimum layer height:\n\nOn a finished print, the minimum layer height will affect how visible the horisontal lines of the print will be. Printing at a lower layer height can dramatically increase the smoothness of the finished part, while equally increasing the printing time - among several other things.\n\nA minimum layer height of 0.1 mm is fairly common for low-cost desktop FDM printers.\n\nNozzle diameter:\n\nJust like the layer height defines the vertical resolution of a print, the nozzle diameter defines the sharpness of horizontal features of a print. \n\nWhen printing with a large nozzle diameter, all sharp edges and corners of the model will have a slight roundness to them: the larger the nozzle diameter, the more rounded sharp corners will be, and vice versa. You might think of it as making a detailed drawing with a blunt pencil.\n\nA nozzle diameter of 0.4 mm can perhaps be considered the standard for desktop FDM printers today, and will allow you to print \"\"fairly accurate\"\" parts.\n\nWill the daVinci work for you?\n\nSince I've never worked with the daVinci printer before, I cannot make a statement on it's user friendliness, or actual performance. \n\nIn general, if you intend to use it to print fragile, complex models such as insects, I believe a resin based printer might be more right for you, since they typically will allow for much higher reproduction of details than FDM printers. Printing solid/compact structures like coins and nuts, on the other hand, can typically be handled by a well calibrated FDM printer. \n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n582,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ro Siv,3.0576060275493275,5.807285868097041,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.859356439026359,How small can I expect FDM 3d printers to print?,\"I was wondering if this printer(daVinci 1.0) had the ability to print very small objects, like insects, coins, or small nuts. (About the size of 1 -2 cubic centimeters)\n\nHere is a link to the printer on the website.\n\nThe reason I ask is someone asked me if it was able to, but I have not been able to access the actual 3-D printer for use at this time, just manuals which I have looked through.\n\nSo if the 3-D printer was able to print small objects, would a novice be able to do such a thing?\n\nPlease let me know if any additional details are needed. \n\",Leo Ervin,\"1) If we're talking about FFF/FDM printers:\n\nAccuracy of the electronics and motors allows it, yes.\nBut how FDM printers work it might be very hard to lay down layers of molten plastic so small as to preserve little details in the X and Y axis, not much of a problem doing 20 micron layer height though (Z resolution).\nCheck this answer to find out what the X and Y resolution is and what it depends on: https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/509/381\n\nYou'll need both a small enough nozzle, as well as somehow cool the plastic because since the printed objects are so tiny the nozzle keeps contact with the surface surrounding it and heats it longer, which might melt the whole object or even char it.\n\nI've seen very few people do tiny prints with success. And the smallest nozzles I know are 250 micron.\nNot trying to dscourage you, just letting you know. If it was easy to do I think more people would be doing it and more companies would be advertising their printers as capable of such a thing\n\nSo you'll have around 20 micron Z resolution and around maybe 200 in the X/Y.\nIf that's enough for you, then you could try. Calibrating it all won't be easy, tiniest backlash will be noticeable.\n\n2) It's a lot easier with curing resin 3d printers (SLA or DLP). Most of them actually have trouble printing larger objects, ironically (trouble sticking to the bed and cracking of the 3d print).\nEven here badly calibrated lasers would prevent you from doing this and even many Form 1 users have reported their lasers being assembled poorly resulting in poor beam profile.\n\nSize of the laser beam profile (aka laser \"\"spot size\"\") is what determines the X/Y resolution for SLA 3d printers. With the Form 2 its 140 micron, unless you'll get a badly calibrated printer.\nFor DLP printers it's easier, it's the resolution of the DLP projector divided from the size of the print area.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n590,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Love Grover,-2.528907649931287,3.6818827665035174,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,How to make your own 3D printer?,\"I am wondering if I can get some electronic and mechanical layout of the machine. \n\nIs it possible to make 3D printer components with 3D printer?\n\",Tony Hansen,\"Yes, look at http://reprap.org for a project that's been doing what you're asking about for about a decade now.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n597,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tevlon84,-1.726248027126092,3.601668775190381,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,What is the cheapest 3D printer that you can get right now?,\"What is the cheapest (desktop) 3D printer that you can get right now?\n\nIs there a current price list (with different vendors)? \n\",tbm0115,\"The peer-based 3D printing service called 3D Hubs conducted a survey of its users and which printers they use and suggest. This survey's results are here.\n\nI recall a similar Google Group conducting a similar survey a year or so ago, I'll search for the link to that as well a little later.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n599,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nathaniel,3.618048892289167,4.926789328961912,1.7539669625835614,5.646830619998737,3.749318730431847,2.306096197889172,Are the Makerbot 5th generation's initial issues resolved,\"I am considering buying a 3D printer for work (scientific research). On paper, the Makerbot 5th generation seems to be the best option, because the price is right for my budget, and also because I'm generally pretty busy, so I want something that's as close to \"\"plug and play\"\" as reasonably possible. This will be my first 3D printer and I have no prior experience with the technology.\n\nHowever, any search for \"\"Makerbot\"\" brings up a raft of negative reviews from around the time of the 5th generation's first release, which mostly focus on issues with the smart extruder constantly failing and needing to be replaced under warranty. Many of these reviews point out that this may be an initial \"\"teething\"\" issue which might be fixed in later versions of the model, but now, one year later, I'm unable to find any information about whether this was indeed the case.\n\nSo: are the initial issues with the Makerbot 5th generation's smart extruder generally considered resolved, or is it an underlying flaw of the model that won't be fixed until the next generation?\n\nI imagine that people might want to suggest alternative models in the same price range. That would be welcome, but I have an extra constraint, which is that I can only buy models that are available in Japan without a long delivery time - this probably limits my options quite a bit.\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"Makerbot claims the problems are fixed. I have heard from a number of resellers that the problems are fixed. Unfortunately, both of those are somewhat biased sources. It's surprisingly hard to get good info on the subject -- very few credible people are talking about recent experiences with the product line. \n\nIssue #1: The main surviving user forum (https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/makerbot-users) has had the torrent of people reporting 5th gen issues more or less dry up. There ARE still people posting issues, but at a fairly low level that is not far outside what you would expect for an average hobbyist printer. What we DON'T know is whether the flood of complaints has slowed because they're working better, or because very few people are actually buying them any more. \n\nIssue #2: The power-users and community leaders that typically evaluate and review 3d printers are all avoiding the 5th gen line like the plague. Makerbot burned up a lot of community good-will by going closed source with the Replicator 2, and lost more good-will through a series of misunderstandings over patent applications and the Thingiverse terms of service (Takerbot scandals), and put the nail in the coffin by knowingly releasing a non-functional 5th gen product line. Very few credible people are willing to give them a chance at this point, so there is a severe shortage of unbiased reviews.\n\nIssue #3: Makerbot has a proven history of buying off journalists and reviewers to get positive 5th gen press. Some verifiable examples:\n\n\nHundreds of fake 5-star Amazon reviews from paid review accounts. A relevant analysis: http://www.amazon.com/review/R2JI8LRRXZYNX1/ (Not verified, but related: a widely-believed rumor states that the German Amazon site actually wiped all of Makerbot's 5th Gen reviews because of blatant tampering: http://www.amazon.de/MakerBot-MP05825-Replicator-5th-H%C3%B6he/dp/B0183TP806/)\nThe CES awards initially given to the 5th Gen line were given before Makerbot had functional firmware. None of the 5th Gens at the CES launch were functional. All demo prints shown were made on Replicator 2s. How could a non-functional product win awards? Not hard to figure that one out. \nHistorical positive press in the 3DP journalism media (3ders, Make Magazine, etc) has been directly proportional to the volume of ad-buys from Makerbot or the parent company Stratasys. \n\n\nI could keep going, but you get the idea. \n\nSo it's hard to evaluate the reality of the situation. But even IF the Smart Extruder issues are truly all fixed (jams, leveling issues, thermocouple connection, filament encoder failures, etc), there are still meaningful problems with the product line. \n\n\nThe print quality is not impressive. The motion mechanics, which have not been appreciably changed to my knowledge, are not great. The Smart Extruder is basically a giant pendulum wobbling off the side of a non-optimal gantry selection of an H-bot architecture. Makerbot has addressed the floppy construction via firmware tweaks to significantly slow down the machine to give marginally-acceptable print quality. According to most reports I have seen, a Replicator 5th Gen will print significantly slower than a Replicator 2, for example. Expect in the neighborhood of perhaps 30-40% longer print times than comparable printers.\nThe price tag is roughly double or even triple the current market price for the size and print quality output of the machine. There are so many great printers on the market now for significantly less money that it's kind of nuts to drop the cash on a Makerbot.\nIt is marketed as a PLA-only machine. That's fine if you're printing art and trinkets, but it's not a great option for mechanical parts. While you CAN print other materials, this is not technically supported. \nThe support plan structure has quite frankly become abusive. Makerbot used to have really helpful phone tech support, but the crushingly massive volume of 5th gen troubleshooting requests forced them into a paid tech support model. Around the same time, Makerbot shut down their user community forum and deleted links to external technical resources off their website. So unless you know the right places to go, support is scarce. For official tech support you must buy \"\"Makercare\"\" or pay for each help ticket. This is completely out of line with industry norms for a hobbyist/consumer 3d printer. They essentially took their biggest liability -- unreliable printers -- and tried to twist it into a profit center. I personally think this is a significant reason to avoid the company entirely. \n\n\nIs it possible to get good results from a Replicator 5th Gen? Sure. But it's a poor value for the cost, from a company that has spent the last few years systematically driving away its former loyal user base. I would recommend staying away until there's some significant change in the product line at minimum.\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n599,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nathaniel,3.618048892289167,4.926789328961912,1.7539669625835614,5.646830619998737,3.749318730431847,2.306096197889172,Are the Makerbot 5th generation's initial issues resolved,\"I am considering buying a 3D printer for work (scientific research). On paper, the Makerbot 5th generation seems to be the best option, because the price is right for my budget, and also because I'm generally pretty busy, so I want something that's as close to \"\"plug and play\"\" as reasonably possible. This will be my first 3D printer and I have no prior experience with the technology.\n\nHowever, any search for \"\"Makerbot\"\" brings up a raft of negative reviews from around the time of the 5th generation's first release, which mostly focus on issues with the smart extruder constantly failing and needing to be replaced under warranty. Many of these reviews point out that this may be an initial \"\"teething\"\" issue which might be fixed in later versions of the model, but now, one year later, I'm unable to find any information about whether this was indeed the case.\n\nSo: are the initial issues with the Makerbot 5th generation's smart extruder generally considered resolved, or is it an underlying flaw of the model that won't be fixed until the next generation?\n\nI imagine that people might want to suggest alternative models in the same price range. That would be welcome, but I have an extra constraint, which is that I can only buy models that are available in Japan without a long delivery time - this probably limits my options quite a bit.\n\",SG17,\"I do not think the 5th generation is a reliable product. I think you are best going with the older Rep 2 - that printer is by far the best. \n\nMakerbot jumped the ship and released the 5th generation before it was ready due to pressure from the board. Love the Rep 2 - by far the best printer out there. This is because if the extruder gets clogged you can easily fix it. With the 5th generation you will either have to send in the extruder for repairs or buy a new one completely. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n736,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nathaniel,4.255155677057378,5.8850624508307225,4.533938825782293,2.011441651225199,3.749318730431847,4.208576161768494,Tips for making parts that push/snap together,\"I would like to make some parts that will fit together. Specifically, I'm making an array of holders for small glass vials, which will stack together vertically to make a kind of extensible spice rack, for a scientific application.\n\nOf course, I could just give each module a flat top and bottom surface and glue them together. However, it would be more convenient (and more fun) to make some kind of connector, so that I can just push the parts together and pull them apart when needed. The connection will need to be relatively sturdy, and they'll need to sit flush against each other with no flexing where they join. I am a novice at 3D printing, so I'm looking for tips on how to design interlocking components, both in general and for this particular case.\n\nThese parts will be printed in ABS using the Zortrax M200, and I'm designing them using OpenSCAD. They will almost certainly be printed lying on their side.\n\nOne option is that there are several parametric Lego brick clones available, which I could easily incorporate into my OpenSCAD project. My only worries are that this might be overcomplicating the problem, and that printing Lego type parts on their side will result in having to scrape a lot of support material out of the hollow parts. (Though on the plus side, the lego compatibility might actually be useful, in terms of not having to manufacture additional supporting material.)\n\nAny tips would be welcome on how to design and print parts that can be pushed together. I am sure I can work it out myself in time, but any knowledge that will save me a design iteration or two would be very greatly appreciated.\n\",tbm0115,\"There are many different ways too approach this and the question may be too broad, but here's a stab at it...\n\nHere are a few different ways that I've made parts that connect in the past:\n\nExample 1: Utilize the elasticity of the plastic by creating a semi circle to fit around another object. When fitting the part to the other object, the \"\"wings\"\" will flex out and relax around the back end of the object.\n\nExample 2: T-Slot style designs are a nice choice for semi-permanent or interchangeable parts. The key here is just using trapezoids and make sure the \"\"female\"\" end is slightly larger and/or tapered to make it easier to insert the slides.\n\nExample 3: Create snaps. This can be a bit more difficult, but can provide a more professional look to your design. It's best to start off by designing on L-Shaped slot on the parent part and a smaller L-Shaped extrusion on the child part. Then you can add a taper to the bottom area of the \"\"L\"\" to make it easier to insert into the slot.\n\nExample 4: Creating plugs are similar to snaps, they're just circular. Try starting off with a cylinder and joining either a sphere or a slightly larger diameter and tapered cylinder on top. Then you should be able to snap the assembly into a hole that is slightly smaller than the \"\"top\"\" of the plug.\n\nIt's important to weigh the usefulness of some design choices against the purpose of your part. For me, if I'm designing something for the shop or something that I think I'm going to be swapping out often, I'll use the T-Slot idea. Other things that \"\"looking pretty\"\" is more important, I'll try to hide the connections by designing a type of snap that can go into the walls of the part.\n\nThe T-Slot designs seem to print quite easily with no need for supports (depending on how gradual the angles of your trapezoid are) and provides a lot of structural strength.\n\nPrinting snaps has been difficult for me in the past and its best not to try to unsnap the part too much as you run the risk of shearing the snap upon removal. Printing such a small feature means that it is usually not marginally strong. However, including multiple snaps in an area and designing them with tight clearances can provide a very neat/clean connection that is appealing for consumer products (for example, phone cases).\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n737,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nathaniel,1.726248027126092,5.373769505254042,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How to turn off supports in Z-Suite (Zortrax slicing software),\"I would like to print a model without supports on the Zortrax M200. To do this it is mandatory to use the proprietory Z-Suite slicer. I am certain that at some point I found an option to turn off support struts (I specifically remember the text \"\"(not recommended)\"\" appearing in the UI somewhere), but it seems not to be there now. Is my memory playing tricks on me, or is there a way to enable a \"\"no supports\"\" option in Z-Suite?\n\",Nathaniel,\"I've found the answer for myself by playing around a bit more. It seems that in selecting the \"\"support angle\"\", a higher angle means more supports. This was confusing me, because I had assumed \"\"support angle\"\" meant the maximum angle of overhang before a support would be generated. I guess it does actually mean that, but it counts 90º rather than 0º as vertical. In any case, supports are turned off simply by changing it to 0, in which case the text \"\"not recommended\"\" does indeed appear.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n771,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nathaniel,5.235888512265087,5.490468759513329,1.7539669625835614,6.034324953675596,5.5595784343394685,4.177929019066117,Designing clips that won't break,\"As my first project, I'm trying to design a holder for glass vials, for a scientific application. The photo below shows the latest design iteration, and also shows the problem with it:\n\n\n\nAs you can see, one of the clips that's meant to hold the vial in place has broken off. This happened after inserting the vial once or twice.\n\nI think I understand the reason for this. It's because I'm printing in the orientation shown below, in order to avoid the need for supports. (This will be more important later, when I scale it up to an array of many holders.) This means that it's relying on the strength in the z dimension, which is much weaker than in the other two directions, because it relies on the cohesion between the layers.\n\n\n\nMy question is whether I can do anything about this by changing the design of the clips, without abandoning my hope of support-free printing. I don't care at all what the design looks like, except that as much of the vial as possible needs to be visible from the front. I'm printing in ABS.\n\nI have tried varying the thickness of the clips. Thinner ones don't break as easily, but they are a bit floppy and aren't very good at keeping the vial vertical. The ones shown are the thickest I've tried - I'm afraid that if they're too thick they won't bend at all. (The vial is supposed to be inserted from the front rather than the top.)\n\nEdit just as an update, here's what it looks like using John Biddle's suggestion, which works perfectly:\n\n\n\",John Biddle,\"It looks like those clips are thin and need to bend pretty far to let the vial out. Try to make the clips thicker, but with a smaller clip to retain the vial so that it doesn't have to bend as much. \n\nThis is what I'm thinking, in beautiful MS-PAINT form:\n\n\",4.764855562826578,2.0769199823829045\n771,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nathaniel,5.235888512265087,5.490468759513329,1.7539669625835614,6.034324953675596,5.5595784343394685,4.177929019066117,Designing clips that won't break,\"As my first project, I'm trying to design a holder for glass vials, for a scientific application. The photo below shows the latest design iteration, and also shows the problem with it:\n\n\n\nAs you can see, one of the clips that's meant to hold the vial in place has broken off. This happened after inserting the vial once or twice.\n\nI think I understand the reason for this. It's because I'm printing in the orientation shown below, in order to avoid the need for supports. (This will be more important later, when I scale it up to an array of many holders.) This means that it's relying on the strength in the z dimension, which is much weaker than in the other two directions, because it relies on the cohesion between the layers.\n\n\n\nMy question is whether I can do anything about this by changing the design of the clips, without abandoning my hope of support-free printing. I don't care at all what the design looks like, except that as much of the vial as possible needs to be visible from the front. I'm printing in ABS.\n\nI have tried varying the thickness of the clips. Thinner ones don't break as easily, but they are a bit floppy and aren't very good at keeping the vial vertical. The ones shown are the thickest I've tried - I'm afraid that if they're too thick they won't bend at all. (The vial is supposed to be inserted from the front rather than the top.)\n\nEdit just as an update, here's what it looks like using John Biddle's suggestion, which works perfectly:\n\n\n\",supercat,\"If you don't want your clip to break, you'll have to engineer in some form of flexibility in a strong part of your design. For example, right now it looks like the bases of the clips are sitting rather solidly on the underlying surface such that it can't move. I'd suggest that instead it might be better to have two clips attach separately to the bottom using a \"\"post\"\", and have each post attached to the solid part of the base with a piece of plastic whose horizontal cross-section is a somewhat-rounded accordion-style double zig-zag.\n\nFrom the top: \n\nHaving multiple \"\"pleats\"\" will mean that each degree that the clips flex outward will only require each pleat to flex a fraction of a degree. You'd have to play around to find out what number of pleats would give a suitable degree of stiffness and flexibility, but if the printer renders the design by drawing the zig zags, stresses should be concentrated in the directions where the material is strongest.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n860,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nathaniel,3.0576060275493275,5.432163698411899,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Printing multiple prints stacked on top of each other,\"Suppose I want to to print several copies of a large, flat object, such as a hollow frame. If I make an STL file consisting of several copies floating just above each other then my 3D printer's software happily generates supports for the upper objects to sit on, as shown below:\n\n\n\nMy question is, is this a crazy idea? If it will work it seems it has several advantages. I can print more copies at once than if I tried to fit them next to each other on the platform, and if one of the prints fails the ones below it will still be OK. It doesn't take that much more filament than printing them all separately.\n\nI'll probably try it at some point just to see what happens, but it's not something I've heard of people doing before, so I'm wondering if there's a good reason why it won't work or would otherwise not be a good strategy.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"If you can get it to work reliably and with decent quality, it would be a good solution. However, you might find it unreliable and the bottom surfaces of the objects might not turn out very nice (as is usually the case with overhangs that needs support). How well this will work is strongly dependent on the object being printed, and this probably will only work for a very small class of objects.\n\nYou don't gain much by doing this, as printing multiples \"\"at once\"\" isn't much faster compared to printing them sequentially (that is, if you have time to check on your printer and reset it between prints).\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n860,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nathaniel,3.0576060275493275,5.432163698411899,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Printing multiple prints stacked on top of each other,\"Suppose I want to to print several copies of a large, flat object, such as a hollow frame. If I make an STL file consisting of several copies floating just above each other then my 3D printer's software happily generates supports for the upper objects to sit on, as shown below:\n\n\n\nMy question is, is this a crazy idea? If it will work it seems it has several advantages. I can print more copies at once than if I tried to fit them next to each other on the platform, and if one of the prints fails the ones below it will still be OK. It doesn't take that much more filament than printing them all separately.\n\nI'll probably try it at some point just to see what happens, but it's not something I've heard of people doing before, so I'm wondering if there's a good reason why it won't work or would otherwise not be a good strategy.\n\",pseudoeuclidean,\"Whether this is or is not crazy is largely dependent on two factors: the printer that you are using and the objects that you are printing. I would only recommend this strategy if you are using dissolvable support material, because separating the parts with breakaway supports will be extremely difficult. Next, this strategy is desirable, because it saves support material; however, that is only true if all of the profiles of the parts are very similar to each other (ideally the profile of each part should cover the profile of each part above it).\n\nAs long as you are using the right printer and printing compatible parts, this is a great strategy. It saves space, time, and support material; moreover, stacking parts may also reduce warping due to thermal expansion (a big problem when printing with ABS), because each part acts like a raft for the part above it.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1229,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nathaniel,3.267423727073639,4.441068339200357,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Bonding PETG to glass,\"I'm thinking of trying my hand at fabricating microfluidic devices. I'll be using a filament based on PETG (Zortrax's Z-glass filament, which is translucent and resistant to acids and bases). For my plan to work, I'll need to find a good way to bond the PETG model onto a glass microscope slide.\n\nWhat is the best technique for doing this? Should I use epoxy resin or some other adhesive, or can I solvent bond it? I've heard stories about PETG permanently bonding to a glass print bed, so it seems plausible that solvent bonding might work. Will it work, and if so, what solvent should I use?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"The solvents that can dissolve PET are pretty nasty -- I wouldn't personally handle any of them outside a lab fume hood. If you have that, a 50/50 mix of MEK and methylene chloride should work. (Increase MEK ratio if you want faster adhesion / less working time, and vice versa.)\n\nFirst thing I would try is printing directly onto the (super clean) glass. Print the first layer at high temp to try to get a good bond. Then over-extrude to get watertight perimeters. It MIGHT be better to print on a cold bed to keep the PET from popping off when the glass cools, but you would need to do some experimenting. \n\nYou could also try heating the slide to the melting temp of PET on a hot plate and then attaching the printed part. \n\nFailing that, a transparent superglue could be a good approach. \n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n5048,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nathaniel,3.452496054252184,4.333139838043084,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.0718911890698015,Thermal degradation of 3D printed ABS (and other plastics),\"The short version of my question is:\n\n\n Are 3D printed parts made of ABS likely to survive for one year in an incubator at 80℃?\n\n\nPlease read on for more details.\n\nI am printing some parts that will be used inside an incubator in a lab. They are likely to be used at 80℃ for at least a year, possibly even at higher temperatures than that. (But most likely under 100℃.)\n\nWe're currently using ABS for these parts. My question is whether 3D printed ABS will degrade under those conditions. (For example: will it become soft and slump; will it discolour; will it become brittle?) The parts clip together to form quite a big object, which is basically a rack holding a lot of glass vials, so it's important that it stays rigid.\n\nI did find some papers on thermal degradation of ABS (for example this one looks quite comprehensive) but I don't have the experience to interpret them in terms of how my parts will behave practically. I'm also not sure if being 3D printed will make a difference.\n\nIf ABS is not suitable for this kind of application, are there other plastics that are? We're using the Zortrax M200, so our choices are the plastics listed here. I note that PCABS is listed as specifically being temperature resistant, so we might go with that - but we'd prefer ABS if it will work, since it comes in white rather than ivory (which is important for our application) and we have plenty of it available.\n\n\n\nupdate: we decided in the end that using ABS is too risky, so we went with PCABS and we'll just live with the yellowish colour. (We might paint it white.) It's currently in the oven on a test run, and if it doesn't fail in a few weeks we'll take the risk of running the year-long experiment with this material. However, we would still very greatly appreciate advice from anyone who has concrete knowledge or experience of this kind of situation.\n\",Gonz,\"heat it up see what happens also take into consideration additional support in case it degrades its still holding up. if possible give it somekind of protective coat. someone said paint but can you add a coat of resin or ceramic?\n\",0.0,0.0\n5048,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nathaniel,3.452496054252184,4.333139838043084,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.0718911890698015,Thermal degradation of 3D printed ABS (and other plastics),\"The short version of my question is:\n\n\n Are 3D printed parts made of ABS likely to survive for one year in an incubator at 80℃?\n\n\nPlease read on for more details.\n\nI am printing some parts that will be used inside an incubator in a lab. They are likely to be used at 80℃ for at least a year, possibly even at higher temperatures than that. (But most likely under 100℃.)\n\nWe're currently using ABS for these parts. My question is whether 3D printed ABS will degrade under those conditions. (For example: will it become soft and slump; will it discolour; will it become brittle?) The parts clip together to form quite a big object, which is basically a rack holding a lot of glass vials, so it's important that it stays rigid.\n\nI did find some papers on thermal degradation of ABS (for example this one looks quite comprehensive) but I don't have the experience to interpret them in terms of how my parts will behave practically. I'm also not sure if being 3D printed will make a difference.\n\nIf ABS is not suitable for this kind of application, are there other plastics that are? We're using the Zortrax M200, so our choices are the plastics listed here. I note that PCABS is listed as specifically being temperature resistant, so we might go with that - but we'd prefer ABS if it will work, since it comes in white rather than ivory (which is important for our application) and we have plenty of it available.\n\n\n\nupdate: we decided in the end that using ABS is too risky, so we went with PCABS and we'll just live with the yellowish colour. (We might paint it white.) It's currently in the oven on a test run, and if it doesn't fail in a few weeks we'll take the risk of running the year-long experiment with this material. However, we would still very greatly appreciate advice from anyone who has concrete knowledge or experience of this kind of situation.\n\",typo,\"To answer your question briefly: No, ABS will not survive for a duration of at least one year at 80-100°C.\n\n\nIf you look at the chart above (from Tiganis/Burn), you'll notice, that the blue line (ABS 90°C) is decreasing. I did an eyeball calculation of the graph and arrived at the equation (J for break energy, h for hours):\n\nJ = -0.002h + 14\n\n\nBased on that, a break energy of 0 Joule will be reached after 7056 hours or 294 days.\n\nIf you roam around internet forums on 3D printing, you'll find that that value is in the ballpark of people's experiences. I remember one case, where someone put out a piece of ABS in the sun and it broke down after a year.\n\nTiganis; Burn: The Effects of Heat Aging on Acrylonitrile-Butadiene-Styrene (ABS) Blends. In: Lacasse; Vanier (1999): Durability of Building Materials and Components 8, pp. 912-922.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10533,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nathaniel,2.1782824847157594,2.917283834062601,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Slicing directly from non-mesh data?,\"This is a bit of a weird question, and I imagine the answer might simply be \"\"no.\"\" But here goes anyway:\n\nI'm writing some code that generates shapes for 3D printing via \"\"implicit surfaces,\"\" i.e. a mathematical function f(x,y,z) that is positive inside the shape and negative outside it. This works pretty well for designing the kind of shapes I want to print, but the problem is, turning the implicit surface into a good mesh is hard - there are some libraries that can do it, but they're kind of finnicky and you have to play with parameters a lot to get it to work well.\n\nBut I was thinking: the only reason I need a mesh in the first place is to send it to a slicer, which will ultimately throw away the mesh and turn it into gcode instead. My plan was to do\n\nimplicit function --> STL file --> gcode\n\nbut I'm wondering if there are any slicers that will let me skip the intermediate step and let me just do\n\nimplicit function --> gcode\n\ninstead. That is, my code would supply a 3D grid of voxels, containing the value of the function at each 3D point, and the slicer would create the gcode from that instead of from an STL file.\n\nIt seems that Shapeways have a nice and simple format called SVX that is exactly this, but as far as I can tell, this is only supported by Shapeways and not by any FDM slicing software.\n\nAnother option would be for my code to supply a sequence of 2D polygons, one for each layer of the printed model, so the sequence would be\n\nimplicit function --> big list of slices --> gcode\n\nThis would be both easier and more accurate than first converting it into a mesh, and I assume the slicer must generate this kind of representation anyway, before it calculates the path for the print head to take.\n\nI suppose the question is, is there an existing CAD format that supports either of these options, that is also supported by existing slicer software? If so then I can just write my code to output in that format and it should just work.\n\",Nathaniel,\"This is a partial answer that I might make into a full answer if I follow it up later. (I'm posting in case someone else has the same question, in which case this might be helpful despite being incomplete.)\n\nIt seems that the 3mf format has a slice extension that does pretty much what I want - it allows the model to be specified as a series of polygons representing the slices, instead of a 3D mesh. So in principle I could simply output a 3mf file containing slice data, and load it into any slicer that supports this extension.\n\nUnfortunately, this would mean learning what seems to be a rather complicated XML based file format, and I'm unsure which slicers currently support the slice extension. This seems to be quite a recent thing, and it might be a case of waiting until better support is available, in terms of Python libraries to write 3mf files as well as slicer support. (There are Python bindings for lib3mf, but their documentation currently consists of a single word, \"\"TODO\"\".)\n\nThere is also a requirement in the spec that any 3mf file containing slice data must also contain a mesh representation of the object. This is annoying because the whole point of this idea is to avoid generating a mesh. I suppose I could just output a bounding box or something instead.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10533,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nathaniel,2.1782824847157594,2.917283834062601,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Slicing directly from non-mesh data?,\"This is a bit of a weird question, and I imagine the answer might simply be \"\"no.\"\" But here goes anyway:\n\nI'm writing some code that generates shapes for 3D printing via \"\"implicit surfaces,\"\" i.e. a mathematical function f(x,y,z) that is positive inside the shape and negative outside it. This works pretty well for designing the kind of shapes I want to print, but the problem is, turning the implicit surface into a good mesh is hard - there are some libraries that can do it, but they're kind of finnicky and you have to play with parameters a lot to get it to work well.\n\nBut I was thinking: the only reason I need a mesh in the first place is to send it to a slicer, which will ultimately throw away the mesh and turn it into gcode instead. My plan was to do\n\nimplicit function --> STL file --> gcode\n\nbut I'm wondering if there are any slicers that will let me skip the intermediate step and let me just do\n\nimplicit function --> gcode\n\ninstead. That is, my code would supply a 3D grid of voxels, containing the value of the function at each 3D point, and the slicer would create the gcode from that instead of from an STL file.\n\nIt seems that Shapeways have a nice and simple format called SVX that is exactly this, but as far as I can tell, this is only supported by Shapeways and not by any FDM slicing software.\n\nAnother option would be for my code to supply a sequence of 2D polygons, one for each layer of the printed model, so the sequence would be\n\nimplicit function --> big list of slices --> gcode\n\nThis would be both easier and more accurate than first converting it into a mesh, and I assume the slicer must generate this kind of representation anyway, before it calculates the path for the print head to take.\n\nI suppose the question is, is there an existing CAD format that supports either of these options, that is also supported by existing slicer software? If so then I can just write my code to output in that format and it should just work.\n\",Nathaniel,\"This is my second self-answer. I'm posting it separately because it's a different technique. This one should work today, without any modification to the slicer.\n\nI got a helpful hint from Cura developer BagelOrb in the Cura issue tracker:\n\n\n Note that generating the mesh doesn't need to be as difficult as you might think.\n You don't need to connect the layers together, you only need to give your slices a height, so that Cura will slice each layer exactly where you want.\n \n Just generate the 2D polygons and then extrude each line segment into two perfectly vertical triangles with the same height as your intended layer height - and BAM! you got what you want.\n\n\nThis is similar to a suggestion @towe made in the comments on this question, but the cool thing is you don't need to bother rendering the and bottom surface of each slice, because the slicer will just ignore them anyway. This is because, in BagelOrb's words,\n\n\n The first thing CuraEngine does is slice the 3D model into polygons and the rest of the processing only uses these polygons. The 3D model is only used to calculate the areas of each layer and all other operations are operations on polygons.\n \n Your mesh doesn't need to be manifold; only each slice needs to be a closed polygon.\n \n The slicing stage within CuraEngine is a 2 step process:\n \n \n for each triangle generate the line segments for each layer with which it intersects\n for each layer stich all line segments together into polygons\n \n \n Your model can look like this:\n \n\n\nThis is great because the top and bottom surfaces are very tricky to do correctly. It can be done in OpenSCAD using linear_extrude, but it turns out to be extremely time-consuming to union all the layers together. This way my code can just throw all the triangles into an STL file and it will slice correctly without any issue.\n\nThe other useful information in that thread is that Cura will slice the model in the middle of each layer. So that's where I should slice my own implicit surface model for maximum accuracy.\n\nI did a quick proof of concept and it seems to work so far. I manually created an ASCII STL file containing the sides of a 1cm cube with no top or bottom surface. In \"\"prepare\"\" mode, Cura sees it as the hollow model that it is:\n\n\n\nBut when slicing it ignores the missing faces and adds top and bottom layers and infill, as expected:\n\n\n\nI'll probably edit this answer again once I have the whole thing up and running.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11160,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nathaniel,1.726248027126092,3.0158611934564274,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Combining multiple STL files,\"I have a collection of STL files, each containing a separate moving part of an object I want to print. (Imagine a set of gears, or similar, that prints as a single object with multiple moving parts.)\n\nMy plan was to import them all into Cura, then hit print, then take my fully assembled object off the build plate. However, Cura ignores the coordinate system in the STL files and automatically separates the components from each other on the build plate. This is usually helpful, but it isn't what I want in this case.\n\nSo I'm looking for a quick and simple way to combine my multiple STL files into a single STL file. I know that the objects don't overlap, so I don't need to do a CSG union operation - it's enough just to concatenate the objects.\n\nI tried OpenSCAD, which works, but it takes a really long time, because the meshes are fairly complex and it does the full Boolean operation. Is there another quick and simple way to perform this task?\n\nI'd prefer a command line utility, but I'd also be happy if there's a quick and simple way to do it in some free graphical software. (However, I don't want to spend time manually positioning the objects - they're already in the right places in the STL files, so I just want to import them and go.)\n\",Trish,\"What you try to do is called \"\"Print in Place\"\". However, it is not done by importing several STLs one after another as cura does remove the origin and recenters each imported object upon importing. However, an STL file can contain more than one body.\n\nTo generate a PiP model, you need to export your whole project as one STL file containing all the parts and then Cura not only doesn't rip the model apart, it can't do so.\n\nWorkaround\n\nIf you can't export the whole project in one piece from your design software, you could use a workaround by importing it into a software that can export as one item. Among these is blender, so importing all the parts into blender and then exporting the whole project as one STL is a simple fix. Other options would be TinkerCAD or Fusion360.\n\nThe Step by step guide for blender is simple and the general idea of this workflow is the same for other options:\n\n\nOpen blender\nNew project\ndelete the cube via entf + enter\nFile > Import > Stl (.stl)\nselect the file + enter\nPossibly reposition the object, till it is in the right position\nRepeat 4. to 6. till all parts are imported\nFile > Export > Stl (.stl) + enter\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n11160,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nathaniel,1.726248027126092,3.0158611934564274,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Combining multiple STL files,\"I have a collection of STL files, each containing a separate moving part of an object I want to print. (Imagine a set of gears, or similar, that prints as a single object with multiple moving parts.)\n\nMy plan was to import them all into Cura, then hit print, then take my fully assembled object off the build plate. However, Cura ignores the coordinate system in the STL files and automatically separates the components from each other on the build plate. This is usually helpful, but it isn't what I want in this case.\n\nSo I'm looking for a quick and simple way to combine my multiple STL files into a single STL file. I know that the objects don't overlap, so I don't need to do a CSG union operation - it's enough just to concatenate the objects.\n\nI tried OpenSCAD, which works, but it takes a really long time, because the meshes are fairly complex and it does the full Boolean operation. Is there another quick and simple way to perform this task?\n\nI'd prefer a command line utility, but I'd also be happy if there's a quick and simple way to do it in some free graphical software. (However, I don't want to spend time manually positioning the objects - they're already in the right places in the STL files, so I just want to import them and go.)\n\",towe,\"Similarly to @R..'s answer, you can easily concatenate the contents of each file if you have ASCII .stls.\n\n\nMake sure the .stls are in ASCII format: Open them in any text editor (like Notepad++). If it's readable, you're fine, proceed to (3)\nIf not readable, convert them to ASCII .stl format using a converter tool (like this)\nOpen each ASCII .stl file\nCopy together the contents of the files, except for the \"\"solid\"\" and \"\"endsolid\"\" statements where the files meet\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n11197,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nathaniel,4.356564969431519,4.399253084111805,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,4.83456264223006,4.7596040015155525,\"In Cura, can I make my top and bottom layer be all perimiters?\",\"I'm using Cura to slice my prints. I've noticed that when printing the bottom layer (and also the top layer, if it's flat), it first prints three walls, then fills in the middle by moving back and forth in straight lines.\n\nI've noticed that for my parts, the walls look much nicer than the zig-zag pattern in the middle, and it also seems that the zig-zag part detaches from the bed quite easily, whereas the walls don't.\n\nMy parts would look much better, and possibly also stick better to the bed, if I set the number of walls to 100 or so, so that the parts would be entirely filled in with walls. But then the parts would be completely solid, which isn't what I want. So what I want to achieve is that the bottom layer (and if possible also the top layer) are printed as if the part was composed entirely of walls, but the other layers are printed with three walls as normal. Is this possible in Cura?\n\",Nathaniel,\"I found the answer myself just after posting - I'm posting it because it might be helpful to other Cura novices.\n\nThere is a setting for this, it's just that it's not shown by default. In print settings, you have to click on the three lines next to the search box, and select \"\"Show All Settings\"\". Then you can find a setting called \"\"Top/Bottom Pattern\"\". Setting this to \"\"concentric\"\" does what I described. \n\nActually this setting affects not just the top and bottom layers, but all layers that are part of the top and bottom shell. This seems like a good thing, but if you really want to affect just the bottom layer, there's a setting \"\"Bottom Pattern Initial Layer\"\" that does this. There is also a setting under \"\"Experimental\"\" called \"\"Top Surface Skin Pattern\"\" that I think does the same for just the top layer.\n\nIn addition to \"\"Concentric\"\" there is also a \"\"Zig Zag\"\" option that's quite similar to the default \"\"Lines\"\" mode.\n\nYou can also change the visibility of settings in the preferences menu, to make these settings show up by default.\n\",4.143478317956379,2.0769199823829045\n11197,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nathaniel,4.356564969431519,4.399253084111805,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,4.83456264223006,4.7596040015155525,\"In Cura, can I make my top and bottom layer be all perimiters?\",\"I'm using Cura to slice my prints. I've noticed that when printing the bottom layer (and also the top layer, if it's flat), it first prints three walls, then fills in the middle by moving back and forth in straight lines.\n\nI've noticed that for my parts, the walls look much nicer than the zig-zag pattern in the middle, and it also seems that the zig-zag part detaches from the bed quite easily, whereas the walls don't.\n\nMy parts would look much better, and possibly also stick better to the bed, if I set the number of walls to 100 or so, so that the parts would be entirely filled in with walls. But then the parts would be completely solid, which isn't what I want. So what I want to achieve is that the bottom layer (and if possible also the top layer) are printed as if the part was composed entirely of walls, but the other layers are printed with three walls as normal. Is this possible in Cura?\n\",Roger Lucas,\"The latest Cura that I have (4.2.1) includes \"\"Ironing\"\" in its options. When I enabled this, it prints the top layer twice. The first time with extrusion and the second time with just a little bit of extrusion (default is 10%) at 90 degrees to the first one. This effectively \"\"irons out\"\" the zig-zag pattern giving you a nice smooth top to your parts.\nI was very impressed at how well this works (YMMV of course :-) ).\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n11227,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nathaniel,2.1782824847157594,2.574082176164519,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Temperature settings not changing in Cura,\"I seem to have got Cura into a state where changing the material has no effect on the settings. I am a beginner with Cura, and I would like to understand what I've done wrong, and how I can undo it.\n\nMore details:\n\nMy part is meant to be printed in PETG, but I first did some test prints in PLA to get all the non-material related settings right (e.g. infill, top/bottom pattern, etc.). When I changed the material from \"\"PLA\"\" to \"\"PETG\"\", it gave me a popup saying that I had changed these settings and asking me if I wanted to keep or discard the changes - I selected keep. I'm pretty sure that temperature, fan speed etc. weren't on that list of changes, otherwise I would have pressed discard.\n\nHowever, the temperature, fan speed etc. also didn't change, they all stayed at their appropriate values for PLA. This effect seems to be permanent - they stay at their PLA values even if I select 'Settings -> Profile -> Discard current changes' from the menu, or if I select the 'Draft' or 'High' profiles, which I haven't yet used.\n\nI noticed also that if I go to 'Manage Profiles', I find that all three profiles include settings for the material, including a 200 degree printing temperature and a 60 degree bed temperature. I guess that these are overriding the settings associated with the material. I guess that these settings are not supposed to be in the profiles, so I want to understand how they got there and whether/how I should remove them.\n\nIt's possible that I did manually change those temperature settings for some previous print - but I wouldn't have expected that to have such a permanent effect.\n\",Ghostkeeper,\"You're right in that the profile overrides the material. Cura's overriding precedence is as follows, where higher numbers override the lower numbers:\n\n\nCura's base defaults.\nPrinter specific settings.\nAdjustments to the printer made in the Machine Settings dialogue.\nNozzle profiles.\nMaterial profiles.\nQuality levels (aka built-in profiles).\nCustom profiles.\nSettings not yet saved to a profile.\n\n\nIn the Cura GUI, once a setting has been saved to a profile, there is no way to really get it out again. You can only create a new profile and copy over all of your overrides.\n\nHowever for the temperature you can still click on the little fx button next to the setting. This will restore the link from the setting to inherit again from different settings. In the case of printing temperature, the material profile actually adjusts the \"\"Default Printing Temperature\"\" setting. Clicking the fx button makes it go back to \"\"use the Default Printing Temperature\"\" so that your material's temperature is used again.\n\nThe same does not go for fan speed, sadly.\n\nThe Cura developers are planning to remove the fx button and replace it with a button to remove a setting override from a custom profile. That would fix your problem. It's not implemented yet though.\n\nSource: Am Cura developer.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n610,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris Manning,1.726248027126092,4.207875721687259,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Hictop 3d printer upgrades?,\"Where can I go to upgrade this printer? It's a hictop prusa i3 3d printer. Where do you buy heated beds suitable for ABS and PLA? Also, what kind of extruder do you guys think I should buy?\n\n\nThis is were I bought it from. \nhttp://www.amazon.com/HICTOP-Desktop-Accuracy-Self-Assembly-Tridimensional/dp/B00N7I1ZVU\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"Assuming your electronics are open source (such as RAMPS), you can buy upgrades and spare parts from pretty much every 3D printer spare part provider out there, as long as they suit your needs and the specs of your printer. \n\nIn other words, if you want make a headbed upgrade, find some bed that i.e.:\n\n\nFit the size of your printer\nCan be mounted properly\nCan be used with your current electronics (and possibly software)\n\n\nIn general, most DIY hobby desktop 3D printers today use more or less the same components mounted in various ways.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n957,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris Manning,2.8153892694839717,4.354715708801675,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,Seamless prints?,\"Is there a way to make all your prints seamless?? I know there was this program that printed a vase constantly changing the z axis making it seamless. Why cant this be done with regular prints?\n\",darth pixel,\"If you ever seen 3d printouts on your own and you did keep it in hand then you probably felt layers. Most printouts contains 3 main \"\"components\"\"\n\n\nbottom and top component (floor and ceiling)\noutline (perimeters)\ninfill (inside supporting structure)\n\n\nIt is almost imposible (and for sure sensless) to create all these components with one continues line as it would be very complex and sophisticated line.\n\nSecond reason. It would be very often that printer would cross outlines (perimeters) so it would destroy good looking external surface.\n\nAnd third reason. Objects can have \"\"islands\"\". Imagine printed elephant which is standing on 4 legs. How to draw leg leyers with one line if these legs are separated (at the floor level).\n\nThat's why \"\"round vase\"\" is the only option to print seamless. :)\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n957,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris Manning,2.8153892694839717,4.354715708801675,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,Seamless prints?,\"Is there a way to make all your prints seamless?? I know there was this program that printed a vase constantly changing the z axis making it seamless. Why cant this be done with regular prints?\n\",EvilTeach,\"Look into post processing your model with an Acetone vapor Bath.. ABS plastic disolves in acetone. if you put your print in a chamber full of acetone vapor, the outer skin will sort of melt, and give you the effect you are looking for. The goal is to leave it in long enough that the outer skin melts a bit. Too short a time, and you don't get enough melting. Too long a time and more than the skin melts, and the print may deform.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1202,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris Manning,3.267423727073639,3.9811022261621547,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.104288080884247,Cleaning E3D hotend and tuning with Cura?,\"I just received my E3D v6 hotend and I am installing it on the open source design of a Prusa i3. How do I clean my hotend after each print and after using different filaments?\n\",Pete,\"I've found a blow torch to work pretty well for clogged nozzles. Note: If your hotend use PTFE tubing internally DONT DO THIS or it may melt and ruin the nozzle.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1202,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris Manning,3.267423727073639,3.9811022261621547,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.104288080884247,Cleaning E3D hotend and tuning with Cura?,\"I just received my E3D v6 hotend and I am installing it on the open source design of a Prusa i3. How do I clean my hotend after each print and after using different filaments?\n\",darth pixel,\"Usually there is no need to clean the hotend, as filament sticks well to itself rather than to the inside of the hotend. If there are remains - the simplest way to clean it up is to extrude 5-10 cm of new filament, which will gather all remainings clean the hotend.\n\nThe above concerns changing filament in the same group of plastic. So if you print PLA you can switch colors/manufacturers and so on without issues. The same goes for ABS.\n\nThere is also usually no problem when switching from PLA to ABS.\n\nThe worst scenario is to switch from ABS to PLA. This is because the extruding temperature of these two materials is different. Unfortunately ABS can have such a high melting temperature that the PLA will burn. So having a dirty hotend with ABS remainings, there is no way to extrude PLA to clean the hotend because the PLA temperature will not result in melting ABS. It can eventually lead to total plug of HE.\n\nSo what can you do when you are in such a situation (ABS -> PLA)?\n\nYou can clean the hotend first with ABS. Extrude some, wait until it is cold, ease the springs and pull or tear out the filament from the hotend.\n\nIf you are stuck you can use special drills to clean the nozzle.\n\nBut to totally omit the issue you can have two hotends :) One for ABS and one for PLA ;) But I think you can manage cleaning if you apply what I've written above.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n1245,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris Manning,3.267423727073639,4.854000591259903,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Running 12v on a 24v heater cartridge?,\"Would I damage anything running 12v on a 24v cartridge heater? I know it wont reach a max temperature 300 degrees celsius? I am using the e3d hotend set up\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"Applying 12v to a 24v heater cartridge won't damage anything, but you may have severe issues reaching and maintaining your target temp. A standard E3D heater cartridge is 40w. When you run a 24v cartridge on 12v, you only get 10w of heater power. Here are some rough estimates on where your hot block heat goes:\n\n\nUninsulated hot block air losses: ~20w depending on airflow\nInsulated hot block air losses: ~5w depending on airflow\nFilament melt power at typical print speeds: 0.3-3w depending on filament and print speed\nHeat conducted up the heat break: 1-3w maybe, hard to quantify\n\n\nI've never heard of anyone using less than about 16w to print. (Two 8w power resistors.) 20w is the lowest vaguely normal hot end power. I think you'll struggle to print. \n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n1362,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris Manning,3.267423727073639,6.703832124066504,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,2.880918201452841,Extruder is running backwards?,\"I have a (HIC) version of the Prusa i3. I have recently installed the E3D v6 hotend and titan extruder. After fixing some other issues, I noticed that there is no filament being extruded. In addition, the gear looked like it was going in the wrong direction. How can I fix this?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"You can either flip the connector for the motor around (i.e. plug it in backwards) or (if you are using Marlin firmware) look for the following line in configuration.h: (using the Arduino editor open the Marlin file For your 3D Printer, one of the tabs is labelled \"\"configuration.h\"\" click on that tab to bring it to the front for editing. use the Edit, Find and put E0 in the find box, click find. When you find the line below\n\n#define INVERT_E0_DIR false\n\n\nchange false to true (or vice-versa). Note that if you go for the connector-flipping route, make sure that you only do this when the printer is turned off.\n\",3.0411126502294303,0.0\n1362,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris Manning,3.267423727073639,6.703832124066504,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,2.880918201452841,Extruder is running backwards?,\"I have a (HIC) version of the Prusa i3. I have recently installed the E3D v6 hotend and titan extruder. After fixing some other issues, I noticed that there is no filament being extruded. In addition, the gear looked like it was going in the wrong direction. How can I fix this?\n\",StarWind0,\"Reverse the plug for the motor on the board. Or do firmware. Doesn't matter. *** assuming you have ramps and a standard stepper.. \n\",0.0,0.0\n1437,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris Manning,2.1782824847157594,4.1021346378966586,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,\"Advance extrusion, extruder code help?\",\"I not sure what this code does..... I recently bought a titan extruded that needs to be calibrated with my printer (417 microsteps http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/Titan_Assembly#Firmware_Calibration). \n\nI am having a hard time understanding why they have D_Filament at 2.85 (my printer was made using 1.85mm filament) and why they used it twice in there equation. Also, what are the arc interpretations for?\n\n#ifdef ADVANCE\n\n#define EXTRUDER_ADVANCE_K .0\n\n#define D_FILAMENT 2.85\n\n#define STEPS_MM_E 836\n\n#define EXTRUTION_AREA (0.25 * D_FILAMENT * D_FILAMENT * 3.14159)\n\n#define STEPS_PER_CUBIC_MM_E (axis_steps_per_unit[E_AXIS]/ EXTRUTION_AREA)\n\n#endif // ADVANCE\n\n\n// Arc interpretation settings:\n\n #define MM_PER_ARC_SEGMENT 1\n\n #define N_ARC_CORRECTION 25\n\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The extruder advance feature is probably not enabled on your printer, so this code effectively does nothing (and you don't need to mess with it). Extruder advance is a feature that tries to compensate for the delay between feeding (or retracting) the filament and the point at which it actually starts to extrude, but it's generally not used. The fact that the manufacturer left D_FILAMENT at the default of 2.85 probably means they didn't enable this. You can check whether it is enabled by seeing if there is an (uncommented) #define ADVANCE.\n\nThe reason D_FILAMENT appears twice is because they're computing the cross-sectional area of your filament, which proportional to the square of its diameter.\n\nThe arc interpolation settings have nothing to do with extruder calibration at all, but define the resolution at which G2/G3 approximate arcs. G2/G3 are currently not supported/used by most slicers, so you can safely ignore these settings since they don't do anything that would influence regular printing.\n\nThe only thing that you should change is the following line in the Configuration.h file:\n\n#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,4000,500}\n\n\nLeave the first three values as-is (they may be different for your printer) and change the last one to 417.\n\nYou could also avoid changing the firmware at all, and use M92 E417 to set the steps per mm for your extruder, or (if you have an LCD) use the LCD to adjust the steps per mm.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1444,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris Manning,2.8153892694839717,4.484391482074324,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,1.7550683581421125,First Layer problems?,\"I am using the E3D v6 hotend with the titan extruder. Everytime I go to do a test print, just enough stringy filament oozes comes out of the hotend \"\"right before\"\" it lays down the first layer. I have no idea why it oozes out the little bit of filament before it prints.... The unwanted filament builds up while some of the first layer is done. As a result, what has been printed or about to be printed get stuck together as it tries to do the rest of the print....\n\n\n\",tbm0115,\"In general, it's a bit normal to have some filament ooze during warm-up. However, if it seems to be an abnormal amount, you may want to consider reducing your target temperature.\n\nKeep in mind that ideal extrusion temperatures are subjective to the source of your filament. Not all filament is of the same material quality and differing degrees of purity. Sometimes, the same filament will be of different quality from the same source. It might be worth dedicating the first bit of each spool to a bar test to determine what the appropriate extrusion temperature should be.\n\nA simple test would be to use the control panel on your machine or use your software (whichever is easiest for you):\n\n\nManually set the extruder to extrude filament\nStop the extruder\nClean excess material from nozzle\nWatch for ooze\nGradually reduce the temperature\nRepeat until the amount of ooze is an appropriate to your liking\n\n\nAlso remember that there will be some left-over material from a previous spool when swapping spools.\n\",0.0,0.0\n1444,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris Manning,2.8153892694839717,4.484391482074324,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,1.7550683581421125,First Layer problems?,\"I am using the E3D v6 hotend with the titan extruder. Everytime I go to do a test print, just enough stringy filament oozes comes out of the hotend \"\"right before\"\" it lays down the first layer. I have no idea why it oozes out the little bit of filament before it prints.... The unwanted filament builds up while some of the first layer is done. As a result, what has been printed or about to be printed get stuck together as it tries to do the rest of the print....\n\n\n\",Alex,\"As others have said, printers ooze when heating up. I keep a business card by the printer and do a wipe on the nozzle just before it starts the print.\n\",0.0,0.0\n2634,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris Manning,1.0891412423578797,3.433715357735872,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Bridging islands in my stencil,\"I am using the MatterHackers MatterControl software. MatterControl has an option to convert an image into a 3d object. The image converter converts any image into an STL. I was wondering what program would work for bridging the islands? I tried SOLIDWORKS and I think the export messed up the file.\n\",darth pixel,\"You should know that there will be no such functionality anywhere because \"\"make a bridge between islands\"\" causes some questions:\n\n\nwhat do you mean be bridge\nwhere this bridge should be\nhow it should look like\n\n\nApplication cannot answer these questions automatically. \nConver image to 3D object is (almost) only to create logo-like-objects or text-like-objects.\n\nIf your image will consist more than one separate elements then MC will convert it into separate objects and these objects will be treated as separate islands. There will be no way to bridge them on certain level/layer. The only thing you can achieve is a solid \"\"connection\"\" between islands if they will be connected with line on the image. I'm sure it's not what you expect.\n\nAlmost all 3D apps have a functionality to create 3D obj out of image but it will always be a perimeter or surface which you can extrude.\n\nYou can create bridges in your app by creating additional 3D object according to your expectations or you can use sculpting app to extend a form. It means you won't add extra object but sculpt existing objects by extruding/extending/pulling faces.\n\nFor such sculpting you can use Meshmixer for example.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3731,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris Manning,2.1782824847157594,4.919073600293623,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,MKS base 1.5 (E0 & E1) not working,\"I have bought two MKS base 1.5 boards. Both extruder ports are not working. I made sure the stepper motor still works and that there is nothing wrong with the Marlin firmware that I know of. \n\n\n\nAny ideas?\n\",0scar,\"The OP has solved the problem as read from a comment on a deleted answer. So far the OP has been reluctant to post the answer; therefore his comment is converted into a community answer.\n\n\n\nIt appears that the OP had incorrectly configured his firmware considering the comment: \n\n\"\"I figured out what was wrong. Turns out the no extrude command was uncommented and worked fine when changed the min temp on it.\"\"\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4346,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris Manning,2.1782824847157594,4.427411842334259,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Prusa I3 starting print above heating bed?,\"So I have been going through modding my printer and I have come across a new problem that I have not had issues with before. \n\nMy 3D printer will start to print above the heating bed even though it gets properly homed all the endstops. At first it was off by half of the whole Z-axis distance using Cura and off by 0.5 mm on MatterControl. Since playing around with random settings in both programs, my printer now seems to only be off by 0.25 mm from the heating bed. None of the settings appear to be affecting anything. \n\nMy guess is something both programs remembered was off and now it's been corrected to a degree?\n\nHomed at endstops:\n\n\n\nHomed to a papers width above the heating bed:\n\n\n\nHere the printer has started to print and it off by 0.25 mm:\n\n\n\nG-code\n\nMatterControl:\n\n\nCura:\n\nM190 S75.000000\nM109 S230.000000\n;Sliced at: Mon 10-07-2017 01:08:42\n;Basic settings: Layer height: 0.1 Walls: 0.4 Fill: 2\n;Print time: 2 hours 18 minutes\n;Filament used: 3.348m 9.0g\n;Filament cost: None\n;M190 S75 ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line\n;M109 S230 ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line\nG21 ;metric values\nG90 ;absolute positioning\nM82 ;set extruder to absolute mode\nM107 ;start with the fan off\nG28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops\nG28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops\n;G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;move the platform down 15mm\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again\nG1 F6000\n;Put printing message on LCD screen\nM117 Printing...\n\n;Layer count: 381\n;LAYER:0\nM107\nG0 F6000 X96.660 Y119.366 Z0.100\nG0 X96.978 Y119.129\n;TYPE:SKIRT\nG1 F1200 X97.452 Y118.764 E0.00995\nG1 X97.921 Y118.508 E0.01883\nG1 X98.363 Y118.264 E0.02723\nG1 X98.699 Y118.142 E0.03318\nG1 X98.699 Y118.143 E0.03319\n\n\nFurther down. \n\n;LAYER:1\nM106 S63\nG0 X111.565 Y151.164 Z0.200\n;TYPE:WALL-OUTER\nG1 F1920 X111.415 Y151.002 E40.19917\nG1 X110.919 Y150.231 E40.21441\nG1 X110.689 Y149.702 E40.22401\nG1 X110.553 Y149.385 E40.22974\nG1 X110.226 Y148.153 E40.25094\nG1 X109.962 Y146.354 E40.28118\nG1 X109.635 Y143.890 E40.32251\nG1 X109.603 Y143.683 E40.32600\nG1 X108.787 Y143.726 E40.33959\nG1 X108.787 Y143.930 E40.34298\nG1 X108.518 Y146.454 E40.38519\nG1 X108.184 Y148.175 E40.41434\nG1 X107.746 Y149.645 E40.43985\n\n\",Timmy Hadwen,\"Try setting your \"\"First Layer Height\"\" to 0. This should resolve the issue and will make homing your Z axis a bit easier.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6980,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris Manning,1.726248027126092,3.247326609336232,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Filament storage?,\"What's the best way (outside of silica beads) to store filament sensitive to moisture? I feel like filament buried under a couple pounds of rice will stay pretty dry. \n I understand that frequently exposing the rice to humid air will cause the rice to less effective but I would only plan on opening the container to put a new spool in and replace the old one.\n\",Sava,\"If you don't want to use silica beads, or can't get any (it seems to be a very American thing, you can't buy any here in France except if you go through a specialized reseller), you can put them in a sealable plastic box with one of those big desiccants for rooms.\n\nThat's what I use for my Nylon and PVA from Ultimaker and it works like a charm. It keeps humidity at about 25% inside the plastic box, and I even managed to save a roll of PVA by letting rest in a box with one of these for a couple weeks.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n612,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ron Harlev,2.8153892694839717,5.163536052611784,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Repeatedly Clogged Printrbot Simple Extruder,\"I have a Printrbot Simple Metal. The extruder is getting clogged all the time. I went through the process demonstrated here multiple times already. Heatting the extruder and pushing different tools all the way through to make sure it is completely clear. \nEvery time I get a clear flow of PLA, and after a few minutes the extruder motor starts clicking again. At that point, it is even hard to push in the filament by hand.\nI replaced the tip already, but this didn't make any difference. I also tried few different filaments, all of them worked perfectly before.\nIt feels like stopping the flow even for about 30 seconds would cause it to jam.\n\",ArkTekniK,\"This used to happen to me and my Simple Metal often. \nThe jam was always caused by one of the following:\n\n\nFeed rate too high (especially on solid layers or long lines)\nTemperature too low\nNozzle pushing into previous layer, causing back pressure\nVariance in filament diameter\n\n\nPersonally, I have never printed at 195c. I'm always about 225 or 230.\nThat may seem high for PLA, but then I have stopped having the issues after slowing the print and raising the temperature from 200.\n\nYou want to strike the right balance between speed and temp. The slower the feed rate, the lower you can afford to lower the temperature. I think you should start by raising the temperature to 215 and slightly lowering the feedrate.\n\nAlso, I have directed a fan at my extruder motor and filament as it enters the nozzle. Keeps the motor very cool and stops the filament softening too early.\n\nIs there a foreign object blocking the nozzle, or does it seem like the filament isn't heating up enough?\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n612,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ron Harlev,2.8153892694839717,5.163536052611784,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Repeatedly Clogged Printrbot Simple Extruder,\"I have a Printrbot Simple Metal. The extruder is getting clogged all the time. I went through the process demonstrated here multiple times already. Heatting the extruder and pushing different tools all the way through to make sure it is completely clear. \nEvery time I get a clear flow of PLA, and after a few minutes the extruder motor starts clicking again. At that point, it is even hard to push in the filament by hand.\nI replaced the tip already, but this didn't make any difference. I also tried few different filaments, all of them worked perfectly before.\nIt feels like stopping the flow even for about 30 seconds would cause it to jam.\n\",David Maulik,\"I had a similar issue on my Printrbot Simple Metal. I believe my problem was initially caused by clogged nozzle which I replaced, however the jamming persisted. I can't say for sure that it was acting exactly as you describe but I think it may have been similar. I noticed that the little red insulating sleeve was pushed up higher than it was when I got it from Printrbot. When I lowered this my problem seemed to go away.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n614,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Leo Ervin,3.267423727073639,4.4069489807698385,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,What types of pigments can be used when making your own filaments?,\"There are many types of pigments made for paint, food, fabric, cosmetic and finally plastic pigments. I guess we need pigments made for plastic, or at least pigments which won't decompose, burn or lose their properties at the temperatures inside the filament extrusion machines (around 240C).\n\nSo what type of pigment are we looking for (does that type have a name?) and where can they be found (off-the-shelf from some specialized paint store or is it a more specialized pigment for plastics which is harder to source)?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"The normal way pigment is added to filament (or any other extruded plastic product) is by mixing \"\"masterbatch\"\" pellets containing a high concentration of dye with the raw resin pellets. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Masterbatch) This is significantly easier and more reliable than trying to mix raw pigments into the plastic -- the likelihood of clumping and other issues is greatly reduced.\n\nYou can buy these masterbatch pellets and mix up colors in whatever ratios you want to achieve specific output colors. Just make sure the masterbatch pellet carrier material is compatible with your resin. There are a wide variety of vendors, including ebay. \n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n620,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Leo Ervin,3.452496054252184,4.838465495589856,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,What and how much does coloring in the filament affect in the print?,\"Are there general rules on how much a colored filament vs. vanilla filament affects the print results, what is affected and how those values should be changed in the slicer to achieve more similar results between different color/colored vs. pure filament spools?\n\",tbm0115,\"At this point in time I don't think there is a need to be concerned with purity of filaments based on pigmentation.\n\nFor the most part, variations in filament quality due to coloring should be the least of your concerns compared to some of the other variables such as quality of the pellets, extrusion temperature (when manufactured), cooling rate (after extrusion), handling/storage, etc.\n\nAlso, assuming your focused on consumer 3D printer use, the typical hardware components aren't equipped to be accurate enough to make fine adjustments with regard to the quality range driven by filament color. Even if there were capable, accurate extruder(s) installed, I think you would need a well designed feedback loop to ensure that you're reading temperatures along the full extrusion process (drive, melt, extrude, etc).\n\nI believe what you're asking involves more material science expertise, from a design aspect.\n\nHowever, I believe that the more \"\"color\"\" you have obviously reduces the purity of the material and thusly the material properties can suffer. Such properties as thermal resistance found in PLA and ABS. So theoretically if you have Black filament, you'll want to extrude with a lower temperature than you would with a natural \"\"White\"\" filament. I would think that the necessary difference in temperature would be a few degrees (Celsius). However, there are many other factors, such as moisture and manufacturing techniques that can take precedence over color differences.\n\nMy advice, figure out how to \"\"cheaply\"\" analyze your material and ensure you have an accurate temperature feedback loop. If can you do that, you'll be able to drastically change the quality of consumer 3D printing.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n628,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Klara,3.618048892289167,5.313421802957781,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Practical concerns smoothing PLA print with chloroform vapours,\"One way to give PLA prints a smooth finish is treatment with chloroform vapours (or other solvents, as mentioned in this answer). This method is even featured on Ultimaker website. I would like to try it on some of my prints. \n\nWhat are the practical concerns I should be aware of using chloroform vapours? I am looking for advice concerning vaporisation temperature, time of exposition that makes for a nice finish, and any other experiences. \n\nCaution!\nChloroform is a moderately toxic chemical! I only approach this method as I have an access to a well-equipped chemical laboratory with a fume hood.\n\nDisclamer:\nThe question is not about the safety issues using chloroform vapours. It is about how obtain the best post-processing results with least trial-and-error.\n\",tbm0115,\"This Reddit post seems to have some good trial and error dialog.\n\nThis Thingiverse post, along with many other references online, suggest that the results are very similar to that of an Acetone treatment with ABS. I'm not familiar with the inner workings of how it works, but the general advice is to be conscious of what you're working with. A heat-induced vapor treatment seems to yield the best surface finish, but can be tricky to track down proper exposure times. It seems that the time required to achieve a desirable surface finish depends on the size and openness of the features on the object. By openness, I mean how evenly the vapor is able attach itself to the surface of the object as compared to other features. Some this variability may be reduced by streamlining the process. Perhaps if you found a way to rotate either the part or the vapor container during the process. This could ensure contact is made in small corners/features. Other variables to consider may be:\n\n\nIf a gradual reduction of exposure is necessary (as is with most heat treatment operations);\nHow much temperature effects time. Most pages I've read mention 100C as the temp to vaporize the chemical;\nSize of the \"\"vaporization chamber\"\" in accordance with how much of the chemical is available. I've used a gallon paint can lined with lightly dabbed paper towel with Acetone for part between 1\"\"^3 to about 4\"\"^3.\n\n\nThat's all I can think of, currently, that could potentially have the most impact on the process. Just as with 3D printing, there's not an easy way to definitively know how your parts will turn out. The sheer difference in the shape of your parts could throw out any \"\"proven process\"\" you come up with. Hopefully this gives you an idea of what things to look out for in starting out.\n\nHere's information about safety, before OP added disclaimer\nAs with any chemical, always refer to the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet)! Whichever supplier you acquire the chloroform from, should ship an MSDS with the product. If one is not shipped, you should be able to request one. If they don't have one, don't use the product and don't purchase from them.\n\nIn most cases, you can get away with finding any MSDS online, but I'd recommend trying to get one directly from your supplier as they might theoretically have a different \"\"strand\"\" of the chemical. Therefore, reactions and safety precautions may be different than what you will find online.\n\nA quick search yields this MSDS which states that chloroform does have \"\"carcinogenic effects\"\" along with some other long-term, undesirable effects. As with any other MSDS it continues to go over best-practices and extremity limits.\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n628,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Klara,3.618048892289167,5.313421802957781,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Practical concerns smoothing PLA print with chloroform vapours,\"One way to give PLA prints a smooth finish is treatment with chloroform vapours (or other solvents, as mentioned in this answer). This method is even featured on Ultimaker website. I would like to try it on some of my prints. \n\nWhat are the practical concerns I should be aware of using chloroform vapours? I am looking for advice concerning vaporisation temperature, time of exposition that makes for a nice finish, and any other experiences. \n\nCaution!\nChloroform is a moderately toxic chemical! I only approach this method as I have an access to a well-equipped chemical laboratory with a fume hood.\n\nDisclamer:\nThe question is not about the safety issues using chloroform vapours. It is about how obtain the best post-processing results with least trial-and-error.\n\",X3msnake,\"Beside vaporizing with heat, you can use an atomizer and do cold vapor. The time is around 1-5 minutes at 45ºC for a 10x10x20 mm piece like a Marvin or a bot. I have done only gangster tests with it, so I have no larger piece info.\n\nPassive vapor polish does not work with chloroform since it tends to crack. It needs a fast flash on the outside only.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n636,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lee Gildemeester,3.452496054252184,4.065321832037903,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,4.376800063013361,3.9829738809469584,Scalable 3D Printer,\"Is there a definitive scalable 3D printer? \n\nI've seen examples of Chinese companies printing entire houses, and I'm curious as to printers / filaments that are intended (or at least able) be scaled up for (very) large print jobs. \n\nSince most hobby printers can take hundreds of hours for something that can still be held in our hands, so I'm curious if there are any designs for printers that are meant to extrude material efficiently with a easily scalable printing area. \n\nOpen sourced / free is preferable; though I'm interested in any designs that exist, commercial included.\n\",TextGeek,\"One big challenge with scaling anything up (or down), is that not all properties or characteristics scale linearly.\n\nConsider a trivial case: a small cube. If you double the size, you've quadrupled the surface area and octupled the weight.\n\nIf you take a desktop-sized 3d printer design, and just double the size, it will weigh 8 times as much. But all the bolts holding it together are only 4 times as strong. So weight-bearing bolts are effectively under twice the strain (per unit of cross-sectional area); the exact factor depends of lots of things (orientation, leverage, etc).\n\nIf you scale up by 10x, they'll potentially be under 10 times greater stress, and probably snap.\n\nMany, many parts will have similar issues: Drive belts that are twice as wide and twice as thick will still have 1/2 the (relative) strength -- and stiffness for the motors to overcome. \n\nThe stepper motors have to move 8 times the weight, and you'll want them to move far, far faster. But steppers lose torque when you spin them faster.\n\nMy main printer is pretty much a MendelMax 2, but the Y axis is about 6 times bigger (X and Z are normal). On MM2 the whole build platform moves along Y -- on my printer it weighs far more than on a regular-size MM2 -- it's 6 times the mass just because of size, besides that it has to be much stiffer to avoid sagging over that distance. I went to a larger motor, but it could still barely move the axis. I eventually got it to move at pretty normal speed, but to print long objects it really should be 6 times faster or so.\n\nThat would require an amazing motor -- and really big electronics to drive it.\n\nAnother challenge is the printing material -- 20mm diameter PLA fiber would be really impressive, but a little hard to find, and a spool would be hard to lift. The power needed to melt it fast enough would be impressive, too. Bridge and house printers I've seen in reports, use pumped concrete through about a 100mm wide nozzle (I have no idea what the nozzle is made of, to stand up to the abrasion). See Watch this giant 3D printer build a house for some cool pictures and video.\n\nScaling up is a fascinating project -- but it's harder than it looks.\n\",3.7511513460834345,2.0769199823829045\n636,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lee Gildemeester,3.452496054252184,4.065321832037903,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,4.376800063013361,3.9829738809469584,Scalable 3D Printer,\"Is there a definitive scalable 3D printer? \n\nI've seen examples of Chinese companies printing entire houses, and I'm curious as to printers / filaments that are intended (or at least able) be scaled up for (very) large print jobs. \n\nSince most hobby printers can take hundreds of hours for something that can still be held in our hands, so I'm curious if there are any designs for printers that are meant to extrude material efficiently with a easily scalable printing area. \n\nOpen sourced / free is preferable; though I'm interested in any designs that exist, commercial included.\n\",tbm0115,\"If I understand your question correctly, it sounds like you're looking somewhere within the RepRap realm. The RepRap community is mostly responsible for the boom in consumer 3D printing in the past 10 years, and that's most likely because it's open source. RepRap designs are mostly dynamic (and most parts can be 3D printed), so you could theoretically build a larger frame for your machine and use a slicing engine that allows you to set the build volume. I believe Slic3r allows you to customize the build space, I'm not sure though.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n645,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,QwertyChouskie,3.767809650974757,4.524214170298525,2.7799718631987322,2.011441651225199,4.240216107868139,4.7596040015155525,Cura not allowing full print area to used,\"Cura does not seem let the full print area to be used. My printer is a Lulzbot Mini. The design illustrated below can be found here.\n\n\n \n\n\n \n\n\",Kevin,\"Cura is likely factoring in your skirt. Change the skirt lines to 0 and you might be able to print. Cura also seems to have an in-built build size offset of about 2mm. I can't seem to get rid of it in any way other than to change the build size.\n\",3.6340916038470805,2.0769199823829045\n655,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,QwertyChouskie,3.267423727073639,6.051485202868814,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.4319460411998994,Show generated support structures in Cura,\"In Cura, when you enable \"\"Print support structure\"\", is there a way to see what it will look like?\n\",Eric Johnson,\"Select the View Modes Button in the upper right hand corner, and select Layers.\n\n\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n655,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,QwertyChouskie,3.267423727073639,6.051485202868814,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.4319460411998994,Show generated support structures in Cura,\"In Cura, when you enable \"\"Print support structure\"\", is there a way to see what it will look like?\n\",Tim Kuipers,\"Cura generates support based on the outlines of the layers which will be printed, rather based on the triangles of the 3D model.\nIt is therefore not possible to show the generated support in the solid view.\n\nYou can view the support in the layer view however.\nIn Cura 2 that's on the left bottom of the screen.\n\n\n\nSupport is classified as a helper part in the legend of the layer view.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n647,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user2513881,3.0576060275493275,6.087972180323795,2.7799718631987322,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Is Arduino Due a worth buy as controller electronics for deltabots?,\"Over the times I hear people saying delta inverse kinematics push atmega2560 to limits. I see in my local supplier Arduino Due and RAMPS-FD is the cheapest 32bit alternatives. But there's not much documentation on it so any opinion or personal experience are welcomed. \n\n\nis it really 2560 based electronics so laggy that printing quality is compromised? \ndoes Marlin4Due has a good support for auto calibration? \nanything else to caution against besides a ramps1.4 is a no-no? \n\n\n(I'm planning my first delta. 2560 seems to work perfectly with my previous xy bots though. )\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"An 8bit Atmega can provide bare-bones delta performance with Marlin (eg 40mm/s print speed) or pretty good performance with Repetier (due to more optimized algorithms). For a small and simple delta like a bare-bones Mini Kossel, 8bit may be fine. If you want to do high-speed printing or use any of the fancier features, you should go with 32bit.\n\nThe big issue with 8bit comes up when you want to do something that taxes the MCU. Delta kinematics already add a lot of extra math on top of all the normal printer functions like command parsing, motion planning, and heater control. For example, adding any of these to an 8bit Delta can cause issues:\n\n\nBed tilt compensation \"\"auto-leveling\"\" -- the coordinate space rotation transform adds a lot of extra floating point calculations to every movement segment. That really taxes the 8bit Atmega since it does not have native floating point support. (Note that pre-print auto-calibration such as in the RichCattell Marlin fork is not the same as bed tilt compensation and does not add any run-time processor load.)\nFull graphics LCDs -- refreshing the LCD screen for animations and status reports takes a surprising amount of horsepower. 8bit Marlin is widely known to suffer from stuttering and print quality issues when running a GLCD on a delta.\nHighly faceted (smooth) curves, particularly over USB -- the high rate of gcode command processing sucks up a lot of clock cycles, particularly in firmwares that run USB comms as a top-priority interrupt. \n\n\nWhat the Due (or other 32bit board option) does for you is de-bottleneck the MCU so you can push the printer harder or utilize features that add processor load. Here's why they're so much better:\n\n\nIn simple clock speed terms, the SAM3X8E in the Due/Duet/Alligator/etc is about 5 times faster than the Atmega 2560, and the LPC1769 in the Smoothieboard/MKS-SBASE/etc is about 7 times faster. But they're actually MUCH higher performance than clock speed alone would suggest, because the 32bit architecture and native floating point support mean far fewer clock cycles are required for complex calculations. \nThey also have more RAM, meaning the the firmware can manage more features and look farther ahead when motion planning. \nThey also have more program space, meaning the firmware can, if desired, be compiled as a single full-featured build that covers all possible printers (as RepRapFirmware and Smoothieware do) and thus end-users don't have to edit and compile code in the Arduino IDE to configure the firmware. The Atmega line requires hundreds of conditional compile statements in the firmware to exclude unused features from the binary to get the memory footprint down.\n\n\nAll that said, the switch from an 8bit Atmega AVR to a 32bit ARM Cortex-M3 is still just an upgrade from a late-1990s processor to an early-2000s processor. Neither is \"\"modern\"\" by any stretch. (For example, the BeagleBone Black used by Redeem and MachineKit utterly blows away the Due in processing power and memory. But those options have steep learning curves at the moment.) The Due can still be bogged down by printing very fast with lots of features enabled. It's a big upgrade on an Atmega, but I predict it's going to be replaced by much faster controllers within the next few years. Announcements of upcoming next-gen controller boards are already trickling out. \n\nTo summarize, the answer is yes, a Due-type board is a good buy if you want a high-performance printer. It will meet 99%+ of user's needs today. But it will be replaced in a few years, just like the Atmegas are being replaced now.\n\nAs for specific Due shields, I strongly recommend NOT going with RAMPS-FD. It was cloned for sale by Asian companies before the design was finished, which seemingly caused the original designer to abandon it before working out all the bugs. RAMPS-FDv1 has some nasty design flaws such as heaters turning on while flashing firmware. RAMPS-FDv2 is better, but can experience unreliable and oddball behavior due to unresolved issues in the circuits intended to make it compatible with both 3v3 boards like the Due and 5v boards like the Mega. (For example, the thermistor voltage reference circuit needs modifying to work right, and there appears to be timing issues in the 3v3-5v level shifters.)\n\nRADDS is a good Due shield. It is a simpler, more reliable, more compact version of RAMPS-FD. It is very popular in Germany and has recently (late 2015) become available for sale in the US. \n\nI also recommend purchasing the Due R3-E instead of the regular Due R3. Anecdotally, the \"\"E\"\" version appears to eliminate some firmware bootup issues that can occur when the board is first powered at lower than nominal voltage.\n\nOne possible downside to the Due is that Arduino just announced they are no longer manufacturing it. So all new Due boards from here on will be made by 3rd parties. That's not necessarily bad, since it's open source and many other companies will surely continue making them, but there won't be any more made by Arduino. \n\nFor single-board options using the same SAM3X8E processor as the Due, the Duet 0.8.5 is becoming quite popular. (It runs RepRapFirmware, which has some great Delta features.) The Alligator runs Repetier. There are several other beta/experimental/development boards in the works too. The community appears to be moving towards the Due and Due-compatible boards over the other various options.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n650,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,David Maulik,2.528907649931287,5.238207231297487,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Are there any software packages that can open and edit 3MF?,\"I am trying to find programs that can import and export 3MF file formats. I know that Cura 15.10 beta can open 3MF formats, but I am looking for a program that open, edit and save 3MF files. I am very interested in finding a more portable file format for my 3D designs.\n\nIf you are not aware the 3MF format promises to provide a \"\"replacement\"\" for STL files that contains the complete model information, theoretically allowing us to slice and edit the same file.\n\nhttp://3mf.io/\n\",amra,\"Microsoft 3D Builder should have support for this format.\n\nSolidworks 2015 has support too. A software adoption list is placed on 3mf pages.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n657,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,gcatalfamo,3.267423727073639,4.909698414179684,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Proper settings for printing rubber and rubber-like materials?,\"I am struggling finding how to print complex shapes made of rubber, tpu, tpe...\nAre there any clear guidelines on how to print those materials without deforming and uncontrolled retraction?\n\nThe printer is not a problem, I can print on:\n\n\nDelta WASP (the one I am specifically looking advice for)\nMakerbot 5th\nMB Z18\nSharebot NG\nUltimaker 2\n\n\nThank you!\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"First off, you need the right extruder design. Specifically, the filament path between the drive gear or hob and hot end must be extremely well-constrained. 1.75mm TPE filaments (thermoplastic elastomers) will buckle in an instant if given the chance. That means they will try to squeeze out of any little opening in the filament drive path rather than being forced through the nozzle. \n\n\nIs there a gap >1mm anywhere between your extruder drive gear and hot end? Including the groove in the drive gear itself. If so, either change extruders or print something to fill the gap. Many popular extruders already have Ninjaflex conversion parts uploaded on Thingiverse or Youmagine.\nAre you using a 1.75mm bowden drive? You probably shouldn't bother with the softer TPEs like Ninaflex. Harder TPEs like Semiflex may be ok, but it's still difficult. 3mm bowden drives may perform ok. Direct drive extruders are highly recommend. \nTPUs (thermoplastic urethanes) in particular can be sticky in the filament feed path between the spool and extruder. Try to minimize corners and turns (even inside PTFE tubes) between the extruder and spool. As a general rule of thumb, don't exceed 180 degrees of cumulative tube curvature in the entire path from the spool to the nozzle. \n\n\nOnce your filament feed path is fully enclosed, the filament will be constrained and unable to squeeze out the side or wrap around your drive gear. That's the most important step.\n\nThe next problem is simply loading the filament. Purging out PLA or ABS with a soft TPE can be challenging because of the force required to purge the old material. Many default loading routines are actually too fast for TPEs and will cause the TPE filament to bunch up rather than purging the previous material. It tends to extrude better when there is nothing else in the way. Some tips:\n\n\nDo some cold-pulls to clear out the hot end as much as possible before loading the TPE. (Nylon is ideal for this. Preheat to nylon temps, run through some nylon, let the extruder cool to ~180C, and then forcefully pull out the nylon. If you can't pull it out, pull hotter. If it leaves nylon behind, pull colder.)\nIf you have a high-melting plastic like PET or nylon in the hot end, purge with a lower-melting solid filament like PLA first. This will reduce the viscosity of the old material when inserting the TPE. \nIf your printer has a fixed loading speed, consider making a gcode file with nothing but a preheat and very slow extruder move as a custom loading script. \nIf you fail to load and jam up the TPE, try again! Sometimes it takes a few load/unload cycles to get the old material purged and a clean feed going. \n\n\nThe final issue is print settings. You ever hear the saying, \"\"you can't push a rope\"\"? That's kind of what you're fighting with TPEs. With a properly constrained feed path, you can push rubber, but not very hard. So minimizing extrusion force is the name of the game.\n\n\nPrint SLOW to start. Like 10mm/s. You can dial it up once you're getting good results. This will minimize nozzle back-pressure and reduce the amount of \"\"pushing a rope\"\" that the extruder drive must do.\nRetract as little as possible. Turn off \"\"optional\"\" retractions in your slicer, such as during layer changes. Some people even print with no retraction at all, and use high travel speeds and coast/wipe features to minimize stringing. That's overkill, but it can help with marginal extruders. I personally add about 50% to my normal ABS/PLA retraction distance. \nPrint on the hotter side of the recommended range to start, then dial down the temp as needed to reduce stringing and oozing. Printing hot will reduce nozzle back-pressure.\n\n\nWith all that, it should be possible to print the softest TPEs with reasonable success. But if you really can't get it working right, plenty of higher-durometer TPEs are available now that are significantly easier to extrude. \n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n676,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,gcatalfamo,2.1782824847157594,4.1764561374575395,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Settings to change when upgrading from Smart Extruder to Smart Extruder+,\"I am optimizing a collection of slicing profiles and in the process of upgrading some profiles from the classic Makerbot Smart Extruder to the new Smart Extruder+.\n\nWhat are the parameters that should be changed with the new extruder?\nAre there any params to which the new extruder is more \"\"sensitive\"\"?\n\nThank you!\n\",Josip Ivic,\"There are no \"\"sensitive\"\" params here. You just need to set it up like the regular Smart Extruder.\n\nLike the original design, the Smart Extruder+ is supposed to make Replicator printers simpler to use, more reliable, and more future-proof. It automatically detects when the printer's filament runs out and pauses the job, notifying users via a desktop or mobile app. It also can be quickly swapped out upon wearing out or becoming obsolete. \n\nAdditional improvements include faster print start up and refined build plate leveling, the process of calibrating a 3D printer. The smart sensors within the extruder have been enhanced for better performance and to streamline the printing process from start to completion.\n\nImproved components include:\n\n\nA better thermal management system\nExtended PTFE tube to feed the filament into the nozzle\nFaster print start up\nRefined build plate leveling and calibration\n\n\nThe enhanced smart sensors are a big part of the story here though in that they allow for better speed, along with savings on the bottom line too, keeping users informed about print status from beginning to end, whether from the PC or mobile app.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n667,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ryan Mar,1.0891412423578797,4.557473481130508,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Heat sensor problems with Makerbot Replicator 2X,\"We have a Makerbot Replicator 2X at our school. I have a class in the computer lab and one of our focuses is using the printer. Currently, it is not printing properly. We are using PLA at 210 degrees Celcius. The built plate is not heated (using Build Tak). This has worked very well in the past. The problem is that when the extruder goes to lay down plastic, the filament is too hot and curls up in a clump around the extruder. This is characteristic of when we first tried PLA at a higher temperature. I think that our heat sensor is not working properly. Does anyone know how we can fix this problem? Is there a way to calibrate the sensor is should we install a new one?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"Overall, it is unlikely that the problem is temp sensing accuracy. There are only a few things that will throw off the thermocouple's reading:\n\n\nPoor thermal coupling between the tip and the hot block, such as if the tip has partially pulled free of the brass thermowell crimp (this will make the hot block hotter than the reported temp)\nLoss of electrical insulation between the tip and the hot block, plus some ground loop noise or stray voltage on the hot block (this will typically add noise to the reported temp)\n\n\nYou should be able to visually check for the first, and test for the second with a multimeter. The resistance between the board end of the thermocouple leads and the brass thermowell at the tip should be infinite / out of range. \n\nTo actually check the thermocouple calibration, you have a few options:\n\n\nEasy: Look at the behavior of the printed plastic. PLA that is too hot will smell of pancakes/waffles much stronger than normal, or even smell burnt. The printed material may be more shiny than usual. It will string and ooze more as you print.\nModerate: Secure another reference thermocouple (such as might come with a digital multimeter) tightly to the hot block with some Kapton tape, somewhere the aluminum block is exposed. The external TC should read within a few degrees of the printer's TC. (Assuming you get it attached well enough.)\nHard: Place the tip of the TC in boiling water to check if it reads 100C (or slightly lower if you live at a high altitude). Repeat with well-mixed ice water to check if it reads 0C. Both measurements should be within a couple degrees. You will probably need to dismantle much of the extruder to detach the thermocouple for this test. \n\n\nBut, again, the problem probably isn't the TC. It's more likely either a bed tramming issue (eg too much gap between nozzle and surface) or the BuildTak is degraded and not adhering. This can happen if you do a large number of prints in the exact same place, or get the surface oily, such as with fingerprints. Try a fresh sheet of buildtak or cleaning it with rubbing alcohol and moving the print to a different location. \n\nIn some rare cases, low-quality filament or filament stored in very high humidity may not stick well. This is pretty rare though. For the most part, if your nozzle gap is right, any extruded plastic will stick to Buildtak. \n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n667,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ryan Mar,1.0891412423578797,4.557473481130508,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Heat sensor problems with Makerbot Replicator 2X,\"We have a Makerbot Replicator 2X at our school. I have a class in the computer lab and one of our focuses is using the printer. Currently, it is not printing properly. We are using PLA at 210 degrees Celcius. The built plate is not heated (using Build Tak). This has worked very well in the past. The problem is that when the extruder goes to lay down plastic, the filament is too hot and curls up in a clump around the extruder. This is characteristic of when we first tried PLA at a higher temperature. I think that our heat sensor is not working properly. Does anyone know how we can fix this problem? Is there a way to calibrate the sensor is should we install a new one?\n\",gcatalfamo,\"The temperature is fine.\n\nIn my experience the filament curls up only when the extruder is extruding way up, far from the plate: are you experiencing this while actually printing?\n\nIf yes: recalibrate the printer so that the extruder is closer to the build plate and this shouldn't happen. For the filament to curl up it means you are way higher than you should be.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n669,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,zkent,2.528907649931287,3.4647280758287264,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,parts for autoleveling Prusa i3,\"I am following this video series to add auto-leveling to my Prusa i3. https://youtu.be/awsI9bMndJA\n\nI have printed the parts I need and have the servo and ss-5 endstop in my cart at Amazon. What I need to know is what wiring I need to connect the endstop to the RAMPs board? I bought this printer as a kit and all parts were included so I am learning slowly.\n\nThe switch\nhttp://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HPLBAYW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=AZHZ102UTKBMA\n\nThanks!\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"You just need some wires, nothing special about them. You can use any wire that's flexible enough. For the endstop you'll need 2 wires, for the servo (if you need to extend the cable) 3. The connectors on the end are known as dupont connectors.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n683,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,zkent,3.0576060275493275,3.5148268665696674,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.7272071097011072,Laser cutting on RepRap,\"I have seen some lasers attached to the RepRap platform for cutting but most seem to be cutting paper, balsa wood, or merely etching. If I were wanting to build a platform for cutting wood, similar to the wood framed or boxed 3D printers on the market, what power laser would I need for that? I assume that a lower powered laser would have to travel slower but going too slow would add the possibility of catching the wood on fire (not good). \n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"Strapping a laser to a cheap robot made with flammable plastic parts and no enclosure is stupid in the extreme. Don't do it. Seriously, just don't. RepRaps are not suitable for laser conversions. \n\nYou have to worry about reflected light damaging your eyes, and for the blue diode lasers currently growing in popularity, causing skin melanomas. You have to worry about mechanical vibration from jerky motion loosening fasteners. You have to worry about the workpiece catching on fire. You have to worry about the fumes being generated from etching and cutting. You have to worry about firmware freezes locking the laser on. It's dangerous to you, anybody in line of sight of the machine, and your property. \n\nMany of the lasers currently being sold for RepRap conversions, particularly from Russia, violate US and EU safety regulations related to power and safety interlocks and should not be on the market at all. \n\nThe people posting videos of their RepRap laser conversions are almost always ignorant of proper laser safety requirements and regulations. It's downright scary how much blue flare you can see the camera picking up in a lot of these videos. Don't follow in those people's footsteps. \n\nMore directly answering the question details, most people doing light etching or paper cutting type work are using small 0.5-2W diode lasers. These are particularly dangerous because they have poor focus and because they don't have the power to cut cleanly and quickly. That means more fumes, more fire risk, and more damage to the workpiece from edge charring. \n\nSlowing down the laser is not a good solution: dwell time is your enemy. You want a beam powerful enough to near-instantly vaporize the material, not slowly burn it away. \n\nAn entry-level proper lasercutter for cutting things like plywood and acrylic is more likely to use a 40w CO2 laser. It should have air assist and fume extraction, and a safety-interlocked enclosure that 100% reflects or absorbs the CO2 laser light wavelength. That basically means a dedicated machine.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n683,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,zkent,3.0576060275493275,3.5148268665696674,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.7272071097011072,Laser cutting on RepRap,\"I have seen some lasers attached to the RepRap platform for cutting but most seem to be cutting paper, balsa wood, or merely etching. If I were wanting to build a platform for cutting wood, similar to the wood framed or boxed 3D printers on the market, what power laser would I need for that? I assume that a lower powered laser would have to travel slower but going too slow would add the possibility of catching the wood on fire (not good). \n\",Jetguy,\"Please do not go down this road. First, not all lasers are equally absorbed by the material and the energy converted to heat to vaporize the material. The light not absorbed is reflected right back into your eyes. This is especially dangerous because it doesn't make you go blind instantly, fooling you into thinking there is no harm. You got the other part right, the lower the laser power, the less turned to heat, the longer it takes to cut, the longer you risk exposure to your eyes. That's right, a low powered laser is MORE dangerous than a big one. Next, the only way to properly cut is with air assist. This means a stream of air blows away the vaporized material so the laser can keep cutting deeper. This also prevents fires. The thing we haven't even touched is a proper safety enclosure, proper bed design to not reflect the laser beam back into the laser killing it and your eyes, and finally smoke/particle exhaust. \n\nSimply put, these cheapo DIY lasers are dangerous, and are also illegal.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n937,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,zkent,2.528907649931287,3.6659291796757207,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Why are the STL files for the Ultrascope telescope at 45 degree angle?,\"I began printing the parts for the Ultrascope DIY telescope designed by the Open Space Agency. See http://www.openspaceagency.com/ultrascope.\n\nAll of the STL files for the 3D printable parts are canted 45 degrees. Brackets, tubes, everything I have seen so far. Is there a reason for this? I printed one part last night and simply rotated the part so it would lay flat because I didn't want to deal with supports. I am relatively new to 3D printing -- Am I missing something I should know? Is this a thing?\n\",Lars Pötter,\"The orientation of the part in the STL file depends on the Software that creates the file. I had a software that would export the parts standing upright instead of laying flat. Depending on the CAD software it can be beneficial for the creator of the model to create in in a different orientation as the one you want to use for printing. Also not all CAD Engineers know (or care) about the best orientation for printing a part.\n\nSo my guess is that this is an issue of file export/ STL file creation.\n\nIt is totally normal to rotate the parts into a position that is best for printing.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n1032,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,zkent,3.0576060275493275,5.084193473347855,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Can a short-circuited heat bed be salvaged?,\"I was working on my printer when something metallic came into contact with the pcb. I smelled smoke and quickly unplugged the printer. Anyway, this is the result and, of course, the heat bed won't heat. \n\nCan this be salvaged or should I toss it and buy a new one? \n\n\n\nupdate the heat bed was not hot at the time. I had the heat bed unscrewed from the chassis but had forgotten to unplug the printer. I am not exactly sure how it shorted but I think it shorted between the power lead connection and the thermistor. \n\",darth pixel,\"What happend was short circuit of course. There is no doubt you overheated HB so copper detached from HB base plate. Because you wrote it doesn't work it means copper tracks are broken.\n\nThere is very low chance to fix it. I mean it - near to zero.\n\nWhat you could do is:\n\n\nDetach HB from arduino\nFind a place where track is broken (which needs to uncover it from protective layer)\nConnect it with a wire\n\n\nUnfortunately even if you do it and your HB will work (electrically) your fixed HB which won't be flat anymore.\n\nSo definitely it's to be thrown away.\n\n[edit]\n\nI just realised you have double power HB, which means your HB has 2 heaters... which gives a bit hope.\n\ntake a look here\n\n\n\nhere is schematics which could give you an idea\n\nYou could check if your second heater works ok\n\nIf yes then you are salvaged! :)\n\n[edit2]\nI really suppose the schematics of HB is more or less like this\n\n\n\nSo if H1 is broken there is a chance to use H2 connecting pins respectively\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n1032,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,zkent,3.0576060275493275,5.084193473347855,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Can a short-circuited heat bed be salvaged?,\"I was working on my printer when something metallic came into contact with the pcb. I smelled smoke and quickly unplugged the printer. Anyway, this is the result and, of course, the heat bed won't heat. \n\nCan this be salvaged or should I toss it and buy a new one? \n\n\n\nupdate the heat bed was not hot at the time. I had the heat bed unscrewed from the chassis but had forgotten to unplug the printer. I am not exactly sure how it shorted but I think it shorted between the power lead connection and the thermistor. \n\",Sean Houlihane,\"Yes, it should be possible to fix, although you might choose to replace anyway on the basis that the repaired bed might give you concerns about how long it will be before your repair fails.\n\nYou will need to carefully remove the protective layer to expose the heating element (assuming you can identify where it is likely to have broken). Then carefully solder across the break (maybe with a short fragment of wire).\n\nAfter making the repair, you should cover the exposed track. This provides both electrical and thermal insulation. In the absence of any suitable high-temperature paintable covering, you could try using kapton tape.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n670,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Formenti Matteo,1.0891412423578797,4.113978308474901,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Which hotend does not clog and is good to use with a Bowden 1.75 mm setup?,\"I'm building my own 3D printer (custom design, made by me and cut using a water cutting machine) but I have always had problems with the hotend clogging.\n\nI have had four hotends:\n\n\na J-Head;\na full metal;\na full metal made by me and;\nmy current hotend which is just a block of aluminium with a plaster cold-end 100% homemade with no precision at all.\n\n\nBelieve it or not, this hotend is the only one that has finished a whole print (about 40 minutes), all of the others, with or without fans, haven't managed to finish one!\n\nWell... this hotend has a 1.5mm hole so I guess that that's why it can print.\n\nThe problem with all of the others was that the 1.75mm PLA that I'm using clogged the hotend after two minutes.\n\nNow I would like to buy a new, more precise, hotend. I'm using a Bowden extruder, can you suggest a good hotend?\n\nThis is my printer:\n\n\n\n\",kamuro,\"To make the suggestion of Martin Carney a real answer and shift things away from comments:\n\nYes, moisture and dust can be a problem. Find elaborations on the moisture here:\nDoes filament have to be stored in an airtight environment.\n\nAlso, dust getting into the hot end won't make extrusion easier. (link with suitable information needed). There are filament cleaning 'devices' for print on thingiverse, have a look at things with the tag: filament cleaner.\n\nThere are some other things that are mostly discussed in relation to hot-end clogging, which are printing speed, retract setting and what I would call hot-end resistance. For all of those, read through this thread and refine your question according to what you tried and what the results were:\nRepeatedly Clogged Printrbot Simple Extruder.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n670,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Formenti Matteo,1.0891412423578797,4.113978308474901,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Which hotend does not clog and is good to use with a Bowden 1.75 mm setup?,\"I'm building my own 3D printer (custom design, made by me and cut using a water cutting machine) but I have always had problems with the hotend clogging.\n\nI have had four hotends:\n\n\na J-Head;\na full metal;\na full metal made by me and;\nmy current hotend which is just a block of aluminium with a plaster cold-end 100% homemade with no precision at all.\n\n\nBelieve it or not, this hotend is the only one that has finished a whole print (about 40 minutes), all of the others, with or without fans, haven't managed to finish one!\n\nWell... this hotend has a 1.5mm hole so I guess that that's why it can print.\n\nThe problem with all of the others was that the 1.75mm PLA that I'm using clogged the hotend after two minutes.\n\nNow I would like to buy a new, more precise, hotend. I'm using a Bowden extruder, can you suggest a good hotend?\n\nThis is my printer:\n\n\n\n\",Greenonline,\"To add to kamuro's answer, with respect to the dust aspect, the page Filament Not Extruding/ Clogged Hot-End makes a couple of relevent points:\n\n\n \n Dust collector not applied around the filament: Filament attracts a lot of dust, which can potentially all come into the\n hot-end. In some dusty environments this could cause a clogged hot-end\n within a few hours.\n Clog from the inside of the hot-end: It could be that a big dust particle is inside the hot-end tip blocking it from the inside.\n This can be solved by handdrilling the nozzle from the inside with a\n 2mm drill provided in our webshop.\n \n\n\",0.0,0.0\n673,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greg,1.726248027126092,4.719945072694256,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Does anyone have a Simplify3D configuration file for a Lulzbot TAZ 5 with a 0.5mm nozzle?,\"I've been searching, but I'm coming up empty-handed. They have a file for the TAZ with the 0.35mm nozzle, but I'm not certain if I can just change the nozzle size and be done with it.\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"Have you tried the configuration assistant under the \"\"Help\"\" menu?\n\n\nFrom S3D 3.0.2\n\nAnd yes, you can just change the nozzle size in the process \"\"Extruder\"\" tab and be done with it, if you're using auto extrusion width. If you're using manual extrusion width, also change that to be equal or greater than the nozzle size. \n\nS3D will handle everything else. It's not a bad idea to recalibrate extrusion multiplier (with 100% infill 20x20 calibration boxes) but it isn't strictly necessary. \n\nGeneral tip for switching to a larger nozzle: while you get used to it, make sure you preview your sliced files carefully looking for areas with gaps or missing details smaller than the extrusion width. \n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n677,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Anton Osadchy,2.1782824847157594,4.967014622178678,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,default axis steps per unit Makerbot replicator 2,\"I can not find anywhere default steps per unit for Makerbot replicaor 2. I'm using Ramp V1.4 instead original board and need to know default steps :/\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"The Replicator 2 and 2x use 18 tooth GT2 pulleys, 1/16 microstepping, and 200 steps/rev steppers. That makes the proper steps/mm value 88.888889. \n\nNote that Makerbot used ~88.56 steps/mm in their defaults, which is the value you get if you calculate from the belt+pulley pitch diameter from the Gates GT2 specs. But this is the value you use for calculating belt length required in a closed loop, not for steps/mm. The 88.88... number is more accurate. \n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n696,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Anton Osadchy,2.528907649931287,4.005117949358426,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Stainless tip for thermistor,\"I would like to secure my hotend thermistor in a more reliable way (now it is just thermistor plugged in the hotend :D). I want to have a stainless steel tip for it to fix it inside hotend with a screw (The same approach as used for the heating cartridge). I have thermistors, but I cannot find any tips to buy separately.\n\nMaybe you have some links for this kind of stainless-steel tips? Or some keywords I can use to search them?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"The main problem here is that the hot block has to match the temp sensor. There are a couple available commercial options for hotblocks with cartridge-and-setscrew temp sensors, but they're not thermistors:\n\n\nE3D PT100 RTD -- requires a special amp (http://e3d-online.com/V6-PT100-Sensor-Kit)\n\n\n\n\n\nCarl Raffle Tecto Heater Block with thermocouple -- works as-is in Mightyboard-based printers, but requires a thermocouple amp for boards that use thermistors (http://shop.raffle.ch/shop/tecto-heater-block/)\n\n\n\n\nOther popular options for thermocouples include a brass thermowell crimped onto the tip of the TC (Makerbot and FlashForge) or an eyelet lug crimped onto the tip of the TC (Wanhao). \n\nThe best off-the-shelf solution for most printers is probably to use an E3Dv6 hot block, which uses a screw and washer to clamp the thermistor leads so the glass bead tip can't pull free of its pocket. \n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n696,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Anton Osadchy,2.528907649931287,4.005117949358426,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Stainless tip for thermistor,\"I would like to secure my hotend thermistor in a more reliable way (now it is just thermistor plugged in the hotend :D). I want to have a stainless steel tip for it to fix it inside hotend with a screw (The same approach as used for the heating cartridge). I have thermistors, but I cannot find any tips to buy separately.\n\nMaybe you have some links for this kind of stainless-steel tips? Or some keywords I can use to search them?\n\",kamuro,\"I am not too sure what you're searching for, but I imagine it to be a kind of thermistor housing to distribute pressure from the screw while maintaining good heat conductance.\n\nI first have to say that I'd be afraid to damage the glass droplet of the typical thermistor design by putting pressure to them, especially including later thermal expansion. However, I never tried and we might find some valuable experience on that in other answers here.\n\nIf what I assumed in the first paragraph is true, I would suggest forming some housing yourself with copper foil or copper sheets, since the heat conductance of copper is good and it is more or less soft.\nHowever, as a more simple solution, you might just cut the metal part of a 'wire ferrule', if you got some lying around. (Wikipedia has no english article for this, so I link the german one for the images: Aderendhülse)\n\nAdditional info: Can't you clamp the thermistor the way it is done in the E3D V6 hotend, see this image? \n\n\n\nThermal contact should be quite good and you don't have any problems which could lead to damage of the thermistor.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n907,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Anton Osadchy,3.0576060275493275,3.887384510439058,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.104288080884247,Ultimaker 2 ticking sound coming from feeder,\"Recently, the ticking sounds started to come from feeder of my UM2. Inspecting it I have noticed that once in a while stepper motor jumps back for few steps. I have an idea of what can be the reason, but I just want to hear what you can think of. That is the video of feeder during the printing :)\nhttps://youtu.be/z6CzudMOeD0 First tick at 10sec\n\",Anton Osadchy,\"So, problem was too low printing temperature. It was 200c. For PLA I have it was too low. Now I'm confused, for PLA the temperature range for printing is given from 180-210 (It is even written on particular coil). Does it mean that even printing in this range I should adjust temperature for each of plastics I have?\n\nUpdate: I have researched a bit about phenomena I had. According to RepRap wiki http://reprap.org/wiki/Hot_End_Design_Theory the flow of material dependent on many parameters, starting with softening point of plastic and ending with environmental conditions. I can conclude that in my conditions temperature of 200c did't give enough material flow (but feeder still tried to push it as much as it required). And ticking was one of indicators of it. \n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n907,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Anton Osadchy,3.0576060275493275,3.887384510439058,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.104288080884247,Ultimaker 2 ticking sound coming from feeder,\"Recently, the ticking sounds started to come from feeder of my UM2. Inspecting it I have noticed that once in a while stepper motor jumps back for few steps. I have an idea of what can be the reason, but I just want to hear what you can think of. That is the video of feeder during the printing :)\nhttps://youtu.be/z6CzudMOeD0 First tick at 10sec\n\",StarWind0,\"Oh yeah that is way too low for the ultimaker.\n\nThat temp is a general \"\"this is what PLA melts at\"\" so if you took plastic, heated it up to that temp it would melt.\n\nHowever, you don't heat all the plastic at once. Your hotend it at that temp and if you let it sit it would heat up (fairly quickly). Printers like the ultimaker are fast, and well designed. They have a very small heat melt zone. So the plastic only has a fraction of time to heat up.\n\nSolution? Higher temps!\n\n(do not do this example. Not liable if you hurt yourself) You know how you can take a lighter and almost slowly wave your finger thought it without getting burned? You know if you let it stay even a full second you would regret it. Same thing here. It is going too fast to heat up.\n\",0.0,0.0\n946,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Anton Osadchy,2.1782824847157594,4.355894654629684,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Marlin move axis issue,\"I have problems with setting up Marlin for my new printer. Each time I rotate the dial, axis move to the same amount. It doesn't matter how much I moved it, to 1mm or to 20 mm (according to screen), axis move to the same really small step. It happens with all of axis. I tried to change step per unit to much higher value and it still does the same. Maybe you have some ideas guys? :)\n\",Anton Osadchy,\"Update. Jumpers were inserted to 1/16, but stepper chip I have (9488) could not handle that many micro steps. I changed it to 1/8 and now it works good. \n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n1043,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Anton Osadchy,4.146747269907207,4.500790327305893,1.7539669625835614,5.646830619998737,3.320478682445624,2.104288080884247,Choose infill percentage,\"Since I'm running a 3D printing facility of an engineering school, students are always wondering how much infill percentage affects the stiffness of the part. I know that it is impossible to get a numerical solution for this question, but maybe there is an option to simulate in software an already sliced model. I haven't seen in any slicer an option to export as .stl or .step or any other format which can be accepted by simulation software. Has anyone seen or thought about something similar? \n\",Alex Sky,\"Since I am not able to comment on this question yet, I thought I would provide an answer in addition to the already helpful insight provided.\n\nIf the question in general is regarding infill percentage, and the common follow-up regards part stiffness, then it should be explained that choosing infill percentage is much more than just part stiffness.\n\nPrinting out tensile bars would be a great thing to have for educational purposes. The bars should not only vary in infill percentages, but in also the various infill patterns. Depending on the type of stresses and loads applied, different patterns may be stronger at lower infill rates, for example.\n\nAlso, the infill rate should correlate to the thickness of the bottom, top, and sidewalls. This is especially important with ABS when it comes to shrinkage, warping, and delayering. In order for the part to be universally as strong as possible, as the part cools, it must shrink evenly. This is a well known factor for machinists creating molds for injection molding and casting. Otherwise, you may have unintended additional points of weaknesses arise.\n\nLastly, if creating tensile bars, make sure to take into account the shrinkage experienced along each axis, for each individual example. I would also suggest cutting each one open, as well as attempting to break a few of the apart (in a very crude way). This could stimulate a lot of thought when designing a part, before printing it. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1043,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Anton Osadchy,4.146747269907207,4.500790327305893,1.7539669625835614,5.646830619998737,3.320478682445624,2.104288080884247,Choose infill percentage,\"Since I'm running a 3D printing facility of an engineering school, students are always wondering how much infill percentage affects the stiffness of the part. I know that it is impossible to get a numerical solution for this question, but maybe there is an option to simulate in software an already sliced model. I haven't seen in any slicer an option to export as .stl or .step or any other format which can be accepted by simulation software. Has anyone seen or thought about something similar? \n\",StarWind0,\"You have to do it by eye. However you need to think about what infill you use. a triangle pattern will be very strong.\n\nFollowing I never use high infill. Most of my items have a strong outer shell, IE 3 layers. Inside I will do between 7 and 14 %. If I printed a square 200mm^3 I would have no concerns standing on it. \n\nAll depends. Really though for your settings I would not thing you would really ever need more than 14%.\n\nAt a company I worked at that was testing 3d printed parts. They evaluated material by printing the same test shapes and seeing what their tolerances were. You will need to develop your own method as such.\n\",0.0,0.0\n1161,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Anton Osadchy,3.267423727073639,5.143335614527151,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.749318730431847,4.208576161768494,Extrusion adjustment,\"I recently started to use Simplify3D! It is great software, but I have a problem with adjustment of amount of plastic extruded. I have a slight under extrusion after I adjusted amount of plastic extruded using perimeter test (Printing a square with wall thickness of one layer, measuring, adjusting extrusion multiplier). I suggest that there is under extrusion by looking at top layer (there is distance between layers) and there are gaps around holes as well. I'm using Ultimaker two and colorFabb filament. I can resolve problems by increasing extrusion multiplier, but then I have incorrect layer width :/\nI have also attached picture. http://postimg.org/image/keghmu075/ On a right side, there is a part with correct extrusion multiplier (under extrusion). \nMaybe you guys have some ideas?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"SHORT ANSWER\n\nYou're not supposed to do the single-wall perimeter thickness test to calibrate Simplify3D. That screws up the extrusion volume. The correct volume calibration procedure for S3D is: \n\n\nMeasure actual average filament diameter and input that\nPrint a 100% infill calibration cubes\nIf the print is over-extruded (top or sides bulging), decrease Extrusion Multiplier by about 0.05 and try again. If the print is under-extruded or looks clean, increase Extrusion Multiplier by about 0.05 and try again.\nRepeat as needed to dial it in. The correct value of Extrusion Multiplier is the largest value that does not produce over-extruded prints. This produces minimum void volume and strong parts.\nIn the future, that specific material+extruder combination will always have the same extrusion multiplier. You only need to measure and input filament diameter and you will always get accurate volume output. (And if you use high-quality filament with consistent diameter, you don't even really need to measure the diameter.)\n\n\nIf you really want to measure perimeters, you can do 3 perimeters and divide the measurement by 3. That takes into account most of the overlap and will be much closer to accurate than a single-perimeter measurement.\n\nCOMPLETE ANSWER\n\nThe goal here is to fill the print volume as completely as possible (at least in the \"\"solid\"\" parts of the print like perimeters, roofs, and floors). Empty space between strands doesn't contribute to part strength. In fact, voids act as failure initiation sites by concentrating stresses. Because extruded strands come out with rounded edges, they have to be overlapped to squeeze plastic into gaps and minimize \"\"corner voids.\"\" That looks like this:\n\n\n\nWhere the bulges overlap, the excess plastic gets pushed into the corners to mostly fill the voids. It's very difficult to get 100% packing density, but you can get pretty close if you calibrate volume correctly.\n\n\n\nYou DO NOT want to space the strands without overlap. That makes very weak prints and looks like this:\n\n\n\nTo get the right amount of strand overlap, the slicer has to do some math and make some assumptions about how you're calibrating it. This is not uniform between software packages. So it's important to understand what \"\"extrusion width\"\" means to different slicers. For a couple prominent examples:\n\n\nSlic3r treats \"\"extrusion width\"\" as the measured outside dimension of a stack of strands. Adjacent strands are then positioned closer together than the nominal width according to a somewhat complicated equation to get sufficient overlap for bonding.\nS3D treats \"\"extrusion width\"\" as the average width of the stack of strands, which is the equivalent width if the plastic strands were extruded as ideal rectangles instead of a stack of ovals. Adjacent strands are positioned 1x nominal extrusion width apart. That provides the correct amount of overlap without any extra math. But each individual strand is really somewhat wider than the nominal \"\"width.\"\"\n\n\n\n\nBoth of these techniques can produce the exact same output if calibrated properly, but they require different calibration techniques because they calculate the plastic volume and adjacent strand spacing different ways. \n\nIt's important to understand that S3D spaces its strands 1x extrusion width apart. When you use the measured perimeter thickness to calibrate Simplify3D for extrusion width setting = measured thickness, you get under-extruded prints with no strand overlap. S3D's strands must measure wider than the \"\"width\"\" setting to get the correct overlap. \n\nIn practice, S3D's code is smart enough to know how this affects print dimenions, and will adjust perimeter positions to get accurate overall dimensions. But single-wall test boxes will be thicker than expected. \n\nThe downside to the way Slic3r calculates volume is that it is only accurate for strands that are shaped like ovals. And that is only an accurate assumption when [extrusion width > nozzle width + layer height]. The strand must be wide enough for molten plastic to flow sideways and develop the circular bulge cross-section. So people almost always print with wider strands in Slic3r than is strictly necessary. The volume calculations don't work all that well with thin strands. Whereas S3D's volume calculation method works fine with pretty much any extrusion width greater than layer height and greater than nozzle diameter. \n\nThere are pros and cons to both systems. You just need to understand the correct calibration technique for each. \n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n1215,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Anton Osadchy,3.0576060275493275,5.210391239065973,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Slic3r under extrusion,\"For last two weeks I have been struggling with flow rate adjustments. I'm using an UM2, colorFabb XT 1.75mm and Slic3r. Before printing a test cube I made flow rate adjustments using the \"\"Perimeter test\"\" (printed a hallow cube with 1 layer thin perimeter line). I then compared the desired value of the perimeter's width with the value from the g-code and adjusted the flow rate. I repeated this procedure until I got exactly the thickness I needed. After that, I printed a 15x15x15 mm cube and observed under extrusion on top layer. Also, the dimensions of the cube in the x-y plane were smaller than expected (0.4mm shorter than they should be). I have done this a few times now, and still get the same result. :/ Furthermore, I was unable to adjust width by dividing the desired value of the width of the perimeter by a real value, I got slightly smaller extrusion multiplier (One I got by division is 0.9 , but 9.5 relates to desired width). Do you have some suggestion guys?\n\nUpdate:\n\nI'll try to explain the calibration method I have used. \n\n\nI have made in Solidwork 15x15x15 mm cube. \nThe cube was imported into Slic3r, where I have set the infill to 0% and number of sides shells equal to 1 and number of top and bottom shells equal to 0 (It gave me one layer thin wall in shape of cube). \nI printed it out and measured the width using caliper and compared with the perimeter's width from g-code. \nI have got something about 0.7, but the extrusion width in g-code is 0.65, so I changed extrusion multiplier by 0.65/0.7 = 0.93 (what is not actually true, because I got correct value on 0.95 only) \nI have repeated the procedure for many times, and always got wrong dimensions and under extrusion.\nThere is the video about method I just have explained: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cnjE5udkNEA\n\n\",darth pixel,\"It looks like you overtune it. I think it's because top layer of hollow object doesn't have any support (which is obvious) but because of that the filament is not oblate that's why it looks like underextruded.\n\nIf you really need hollow object then set number of top layers to 3..5 then check if it helps. I know it's not really what you expect but IMO this could help here. (I usually set 2 bottom layers and 3 top and it's quite enought.) You can also experiment with speed of top leyer. I would say the faster the better in this issue as the the first top layer should be as flat as possible then next top layer will have better support. And of course cooling should be set to max (as for the bridges).\n\nHere is an explanation why you get underextrusion. \n\n\nA is wall (perimeter) B is (ceiling) top layer. \n\nEmpty outlines are what you expect but filled shapes are what you really get. Differences are of course slightly smaller but it's to clearly explain the issue\n\nPlease also check Printer Settings > Advanced > Top solid infill.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n1215,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Anton Osadchy,3.0576060275493275,5.210391239065973,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Slic3r under extrusion,\"For last two weeks I have been struggling with flow rate adjustments. I'm using an UM2, colorFabb XT 1.75mm and Slic3r. Before printing a test cube I made flow rate adjustments using the \"\"Perimeter test\"\" (printed a hallow cube with 1 layer thin perimeter line). I then compared the desired value of the perimeter's width with the value from the g-code and adjusted the flow rate. I repeated this procedure until I got exactly the thickness I needed. After that, I printed a 15x15x15 mm cube and observed under extrusion on top layer. Also, the dimensions of the cube in the x-y plane were smaller than expected (0.4mm shorter than they should be). I have done this a few times now, and still get the same result. :/ Furthermore, I was unable to adjust width by dividing the desired value of the width of the perimeter by a real value, I got slightly smaller extrusion multiplier (One I got by division is 0.9 , but 9.5 relates to desired width). Do you have some suggestion guys?\n\nUpdate:\n\nI'll try to explain the calibration method I have used. \n\n\nI have made in Solidwork 15x15x15 mm cube. \nThe cube was imported into Slic3r, where I have set the infill to 0% and number of sides shells equal to 1 and number of top and bottom shells equal to 0 (It gave me one layer thin wall in shape of cube). \nI printed it out and measured the width using caliper and compared with the perimeter's width from g-code. \nI have got something about 0.7, but the extrusion width in g-code is 0.65, so I changed extrusion multiplier by 0.65/0.7 = 0.93 (what is not actually true, because I got correct value on 0.95 only) \nI have repeated the procedure for many times, and always got wrong dimensions and under extrusion.\nThere is the video about method I just have explained: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cnjE5udkNEA\n\n\",Jorge Cuevas,\"I've had that issue on my 3D printing shop. \n\nThat kind of problem usually happens when the extruder driving gear gets worn out. This makes the extruder loose it's grip on the filament and diminishes the flow of the extrusion, resulting on the prints you show on your photo.\n\nDepending on the time you have with your printer and the use you give it the gear will get worn out between 8 to 12 months and you will have to change it to avoid the flow issues.\n\nI recommend you to open the extruder and check if the driving gear is worn so that you can order a new one.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n694,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,LN6595,2.528907649931287,4.710187992588519,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Printerbot printing stringy,\"My Printrbot is always printing stringy, despite changing the setting on my z probe by entering command M212 Z-.1 through Z-1.5, with and without a heated bed. My prints look roughly like the one on the left. How do I fix this?\n\n\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"The most common cause of print issues like this is incorrect first-layer gap between the nozzle and bed. You can tell if that's the problem by trying to print with a raft and/or letting the print continue for a while. If the raft helps and the print eventually \"\"heals up\"\" and only the bottom few mm are bad, then you have a bed leveling / nozzle gap issue The bed must be leveled to the nozzle properly, or nothing will work right. \n\nWhen using a probe, you need to follow the manufacturer's instructions for how to configure it. For example, are you adjusting the Z offset in firmware configuration.h or in EEPROM? Printrbot should have a guide for this. \n\nIf the nozzle gap is fine and the stringiness continues farther up the print, there are two main causes:\n\n\nXY or Z movement is larger than intended due to incorrect steps/mm value or wrong microstepping setting\nSevere under-extrusion\n\n\nOf the two, under-extrusion is far more common, and unfortunately has lots of possible causes:\n\n\nPrinting too cold for the material\nE-axis steps/mm is incorrect for the extruder drive hardware and microstepping\nExtruder stepper current is too low\nExtruder hardware is misaligned or jamming or the teeth are full of plastic dust\nPartial nozzle clog or damaged PTFE tube in the hot end\nCommanded flow rate through the nozzle is too high, such as if you're trying to print big, fat strands at high speeds\nIncorrect slicer calibration (eg extrusion multiplier is too low) or inappropriate slicer settings (eg extrusion width too large for the nozzle size)\nExcessive filament feed path drag between the spool and extruder drive\n\n\nThe first under-extrusion tests you should start with are:\n\n\nPreheat and try to push filament through the hot end by hand. Can you get a strand to come out without a ton of force? Does it go mostly down, or curl back up to hit the nozzle?\nRemove the hot end from the extruder drive, and command 100mm of filament motion through the extruder. Measure how much travel you actually get. It should be close to 100mm. \nWith the hot end removed, command some filament motion, and try to stop the filament from moving by hand. Does it take some significant force to get the extruder to stall or slip? \n\n\nBased on these, you should have a better idea of what needs to be fixed. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n703,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Shivanand,2.8153892694839717,4.262655180587814,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.306096197889172,Is 3D printing feasible for this design?,\"In a design that I need to prototype, I have a coaxial, rotational joint between 2 cylinders connected to another coaxial rotational joint between 2 cylinders by a hinge. I have attached the individual part files as well as their assembly where you can use your mouse cursor to check how they move. \nClick here for the SolidWorks parts and assembly files\n\nInitially when I 3d printed them by splitting them in half, the outer tube did not close, even after filing the inner tube sufficiently. \n\n\nCould you tell me an alternative method to get this complicated joint working? I need to 3D print them. I plan to use ABS for the 3D printing.\n\nThanks for your patience :)\n\nEDIT:\nLubrication: I plan to use grease to lubricate the sliding surfaces.\n\nClearances:\nI printed them without clearances initially (this is my first ever 3D print and I wanted to know how accurate it would be). I then used Dremel and filing tools to file away about 0.5 mm of both the surfaces. It should have been enough for mating the parts. The gap between the edges of the outer shell while trying to close it around is 3-4 mm which doesn't suggest 3D printing inaccuracy. I suspect that the outer tube isn't circular enough in cross section. It meets the inner tube at the the two ends of the semicircle and not inside its belly (you can see it in the picture). I have already tried the obvious, which is removing material from the surfaces wherever the parts touch. The model seems to be too warped for any success. The parts were printed upwards from the bottom, so it is not the warping due to gravity.\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"Consider ball bearings\n\nDepending on the requirements for your joint, I would consider making a design that utilizes ball bearings. With ball bearings, your join will not wear down as quickly, and also move smoothly.\n\nHandling dimensional inaccuracy\n\nThe topic of how to achieve dimensional accuracy of FDM printers has already been discussed in this question. You might want have a look at Ryan Carlyle's answer for a specific routine on how to calibrate a Cartesian printer.\n\nFrom the question linked, a summarized approach for handling dimensional inaccuracy could be:\n\n\nAdd any desired tolerances into the joint in your CAD model, without regarding the inaccuracy of the actual printer you will use.\nTune your printer and slicer to reproduce those dimensions set by your CAD program. \n\n\nGenerally speaking, the printer settings should handle filament independent dimensional accuracy, while the slicer should be used to account for different characteristics in each filament type. Correcting size through your CAD model is ill-advised, since you should be able to use the same model for multiple printers.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n703,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Shivanand,2.8153892694839717,4.262655180587814,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.306096197889172,Is 3D printing feasible for this design?,\"In a design that I need to prototype, I have a coaxial, rotational joint between 2 cylinders connected to another coaxial rotational joint between 2 cylinders by a hinge. I have attached the individual part files as well as their assembly where you can use your mouse cursor to check how they move. \nClick here for the SolidWorks parts and assembly files\n\nInitially when I 3d printed them by splitting them in half, the outer tube did not close, even after filing the inner tube sufficiently. \n\n\nCould you tell me an alternative method to get this complicated joint working? I need to 3D print them. I plan to use ABS for the 3D printing.\n\nThanks for your patience :)\n\nEDIT:\nLubrication: I plan to use grease to lubricate the sliding surfaces.\n\nClearances:\nI printed them without clearances initially (this is my first ever 3D print and I wanted to know how accurate it would be). I then used Dremel and filing tools to file away about 0.5 mm of both the surfaces. It should have been enough for mating the parts. The gap between the edges of the outer shell while trying to close it around is 3-4 mm which doesn't suggest 3D printing inaccuracy. I suspect that the outer tube isn't circular enough in cross section. It meets the inner tube at the the two ends of the semicircle and not inside its belly (you can see it in the picture). I have already tried the obvious, which is removing material from the surfaces wherever the parts touch. The model seems to be too warped for any success. The parts were printed upwards from the bottom, so it is not the warping due to gravity.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Have you considered to use a service to have the part printed? You can print almost anything in one \"\"pass\"\" using selective laser sintering, typically done in nylon. I am currently un-boxing an SLS printer, so I cannot currently offer to print it, but the capabilities of SLS are substantial for parts of this nature. I've read of entire planetary gearboxes being printed, fully assembled, with appropriate clearances for operation, once removed and \"\"dusted,\"\" or cleaned of residual powder.\n\nThe printer I hope to be assembling soon has 80 micron powder, so the resolution is quite high, although I forget at the moment the x/y/z figures.\n\nDo you think such a method would suit your purposes?\n\nEdit (add):\n\nbecause FDM printing by nature causes \"\"oozing\"\" especially in the x/y directions, I would not be surprised to learn that your outer piece has a smaller inside diameter than your design has specified. You may have to make adjustments to the design to compensate. Those adjustments would be specific to a particular printer/filament combination as well. Calibration prints would make the task slightly easier.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1511,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Shivanand,3.267423727073639,4.185581311099118,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.585260288142579,Irregular 3D printed part,\"I tried printing from an STL file on the QIDI TECHNOLOGY 3DP-QDA16-01 Dual Extruder Desktop 3D Printer QIDI TECH I. They recommend using the MakerBot software with the Replicator(Dual) profile. The 3D print that I tried is messed up.\n\nThe material used is PLA.\n\nCould you help me determine the cause? The following pictures give more details:\n(All settings which are not shown are Makerware default settings)\n\n1 The 3D model\n\n\n\n2 The printed sample\n\n\n\n3 The Settings\n\n\n\n\n\",tbm0115,\"I agree with RyanCarlyle on this:\n\n\n Your print isn't cooling fast enough.\n\n\nPlease regard this answer of mine that covers a few options to help with the issue you're encountering. Pay particular attention to the layer times, and active cooling.\n\nThe essential take-away from my answer (linked above) is this:\n\n\nIncrease Layer Times. Increasing Minimum Layer Duration (Device Settings -> Minimum Layer Duration) will provide the material with more time to naturally cool down closer to its environment's temperature. What this does is ensure that the latest layer is mostly solid before the machine begins printing the next molten layer. If you don't let the previous layer of plastic solidify enough, then plastic gets pushed/pulled around when the machine moves, adding more plastic; thus resulting in the issue you see in your images. The caveat with this approach is the obvious impact on the overall runtime of your print and should ideally be done more or less as a last resort.\nActive Cooling. Active cooling is typically done using an additional fan, often times mounted directly in front of the extruder. The act of active cooling provides a quicker and more direct means of cooling the printed plastic. However, depending on machine design, you may see more variability on other places such as dependability in extrusion temperatures. This can be more detrimental with cheaper spools of PLA and especially poorly designed machines that can't properly maintain extruder temperatures. Active cooling is, however, very common and seems to work for the majority of 3D printer enthusiasts and doesn't impede on runtime.\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1511,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Shivanand,3.267423727073639,4.185581311099118,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.585260288142579,Irregular 3D printed part,\"I tried printing from an STL file on the QIDI TECHNOLOGY 3DP-QDA16-01 Dual Extruder Desktop 3D Printer QIDI TECH I. They recommend using the MakerBot software with the Replicator(Dual) profile. The 3D print that I tried is messed up.\n\nThe material used is PLA.\n\nCould you help me determine the cause? The following pictures give more details:\n(All settings which are not shown are Makerware default settings)\n\n1 The 3D model\n\n\n\n2 The printed sample\n\n\n\n3 The Settings\n\n\n\n\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"Your print isn't cooling fast enough. With small, thin prints like this, PLA needs a fair bit of airflow to solidify before the next layer goes down. Your printer doesn't appear to have a proper print-cooling fan, so I have two suggestions:\n\n\nPrint two or even three of the part at the same time, spaced a fair distance apart on the build plate. This will give each of them time to cool.\nPoint a box fan into the front of the printer to get good airflow over the print.\n\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n710,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,htownclyde,2.8153892694839717,4.490224283436976,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.548335113978322,3.9829738809469584,Why does MakerBot Replicator heat the extruder and platform separately?,\"I am using a MakerBot Replicator 2x, and when it is heating the platform and extruder, it begins by heating the platform, and then after that is at 110C it goes on to heat the left extruder to 230C. Does anyone know why it does this, since it has enough power to heat both? It seems like it would take less time to heat both at once.\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"It really doesn't quite have enough power to heat everything at once. Initially bringing the bed up to temp takes a lot of current and so Makerbot's start sequences decrease stepper current and hold off on heating the extruder(s) until the bed is preheated. Once preheated, the bed's power draw decreases to a lower \"\"holding\"\" level and there is available capacity to do everything else.\n\nThe start sequencing decreases the max average power draw by a pretty substantial amount. The decrease is about 0.6A each for the XYAB steppers and 1.7A each for two hot ends, totalling 5-6A of avoided peak power draw. (Even lower if you preheat with the steppers disabled rather than idling.)\n\nThe history here is that one of Makerbot's design decisions with the Replicator 2 and 2x was to utilize off-the-shelf UL-listed power bricks (like a laptop might use) instead of an internal power supply. This made engineering and safety certification much easier, and completely eliminated mains-voltage wiring inside the printer, which is a big safety plus. However, the largest readily-available 24v power brick had slightly less current capacity than optimal. So Makerbot came up with a software workaround for the hardware limitation.\n\nIf you want, you can replace the stock power brick with a ~350w PSU and preheat everything at once. Sailfish firmware builds intended for printers with properly-sized PSUs (eg FlashForge Creators) will allow simultaneous preheating. \n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n711,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Baran,3.267423727073639,4.877486450697482,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.306096197889172,Settings for CuraEngine,\"What is the proper way to give printer settings to CuraEngine? Is it possible to put all these settings into a file (like Json formatted)?\n\nCuraEngine.exe -v -o \"\"c:\\3d\\test.gcode\"\" \"\"c:\\3d\\test.stl\"\"\n\n\",Josip Ivic,\"I'm not sure if it's possible, but on github is code for setting CuraEngine up. Maybe you'll find this link, CuraEngine/src/settings/settings.cpp helpful. \n\nThe latest release has more speed customization. You can change first layer speed, outer shell speed, inner shell speed, infill speed, and top and bottom speed.\n\nYou can cut objects, its just a little wonky. In the advanced tab there is a \"\"cut off object at Z height\"\" that you can use to cut objects in half.\n\nTheoretically, you can put all settings into a JSON formatted file. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n711,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Baran,3.267423727073639,4.877486450697482,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.306096197889172,Settings for CuraEngine,\"What is the proper way to give printer settings to CuraEngine? Is it possible to put all these settings into a file (like Json formatted)?\n\nCuraEngine.exe -v -o \"\"c:\\3d\\test.gcode\"\" \"\"c:\\3d\\test.stl\"\"\n\n\",Tim Kuipers,\"First, try \n\nCuraEngine.exe --help\n\n\nThe proper way is to first load in settings from the .def.json file of your printer. However, the formulae in the machine definition file are not being processed. CuraEngine only uses the default_value.\n\nThen you specify setting overrides to set specific settings to a specific value. The specified settings are applied to the last provided object/extruder and otherwise globally.\n\nCuraEngine.exe -v -j machine.def.json -s global_setting=global_value \n -e1 -s setting=extruder_value\n -l object_to_be_printed_with_second_extruder.stl -s setting=object_value \n -o output.gcode\n\n\nOne-at-a-time mode is done by adding --next commands between each group:\n\nCuraEngine [general settings] -g [settings for the first model] --next [settings for the next model]\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n713,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ryan Carlyle,3.0576060275493275,4.9962821362178795,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,What are the advantages/disadvantages of using synchromesh cables instead of belts?,\"Some 3d printers use synchromesh cables instead of belts. For example, the Deezmaker Bukito (http://bukito3d.com/) and a number of RepRap conversions.\n\n\nPhoto from http://christophergranz.com/?p=449\n\nAre they significantly better than GT2 belts? What are the challenges?\n\",Kevin Morse,\"Looking at the specs for both the GT2 belt and the Synchromesh I'm very hesitant to recommend a Synchromesh over a belt.\n\nThe first thing that sticks out is that there are both error and cumulative error specifications for the Synchromesh. For a device like a 3D printer, I don't like the idea that of my axes can accumulate up to ±0.16 in. of error over 100 pitches (the pitch is between 0.12 in. and 0.25 in. so that is 12 to 25 in.). \n\nContrast this to a belt where the only way you have a cumulative error is if you skip a tooth and I think the winner is the GT2.\n\nLooking at the non-cumulative pitch error both products are comparable but again the belt wins. For the Synchromesh we have an accuracy of ±0.002 in. versus ±0.0003(1) in. for a 2 mm GT2 belt and ±0.0012(1) in. for a 3 mm GT2 belt.\n\nNote: I can't be certain about exact values for error since there are no numbers for the GT2 - only a stupid chart. I also have a hard time believing that error is not a function of total length for both the Synchromesh and the GT2 belt but I'm not the manufacturer. However, since both products are made by the same company I wouldn't be as concerned about them trying to oversell one product over the other.\n\nIn conclusion, I don't see of any reason to choose a Synchromesh over a belt if your physical layout is compatible with both. As pointed out in the marketing material for the Synchromesh, it can be routed along 3 axes whereas a belt works best along a single axis. The Synchromesh seems to be a product designed for a very specific application...\n\nSources\n\nhttp://www.sdp-si.com/PDFS/Technical-Section-Timing.pdf\n\nhttp://www.sdp-si.com/PDFS/Synchromesh-Cable-and-Attachment-Inch.pdf\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n714,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ryan Carlyle,3.0576060275493275,4.390350482036457,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,What are the appropriate ranges of gear ratios for 1.75 mm and 3 mm filament extruders?,\"Most 3 mm (mostly are actually 2.85 mm) filament extruders have some kind of gear reduction. Many 1.75 mm extruders are direct-drive / ungeared but some do use gears. What kind of reduction ratios are suitable or optimal?\n\",Eric Johnson,\"$ \\frac{2.85\\ mm^2}{1.75\\ mm^2}=2.65$ which is the reduction you would want assuming a 1.75 is direct drive.\n\nIn this answer I am comparing the amount of filament flowing though the extruder by using $ \\pi \\times r^2$. Dividing the 2 values gives the ratio of the 2 speeds. A gear ratio is them used to change the speed. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n714,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ryan Carlyle,3.0576060275493275,4.390350482036457,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,What are the appropriate ranges of gear ratios for 1.75 mm and 3 mm filament extruders?,\"Most 3 mm (mostly are actually 2.85 mm) filament extruders have some kind of gear reduction. Many 1.75 mm extruders are direct-drive / ungeared but some do use gears. What kind of reduction ratios are suitable or optimal?\n\",0scar,\"This basically depends on the torque your stepper can produce! A high torque stepper (the bigger the height of the stepper the more powerful the stepper) can push filament with much more force than a stepper motor with less torque. To increase the torque you employ a gear ratio to reduce the speed. As torque and speed are inversely proportional, a reduction by half in speed doubles the torque.\n\nIf your stepper is powerful enough, you can use a direct drive (no gearing) to push the filament. However if you want that same stepper to move filament of larger diameter, you might not have enough torque to do so. This means that you will have to increase the torque by employing a gear reduction. Using direct drive extruders thus require high torque, and thus high mass stepper motors, this causes the mass of the hotend carriage to increase considerably. Using stepper motors with less torque (often called pancake steppers because of their reduced height) for such applications is often seen together with a gear reduction. A drawback of reducing speed is that you also decrease the maximum print speed ability or max speed filament retraction speed. To reduce the speed you can use a gear reduction using gears or use pulleys and belts. A major advantage of a belt reduction is that it operates without much less noise than using gears.\n\nLet us assume that you have a stepper that is powerful enough and want to extrude thicker diameter filament. The following guideline can be used to calculate the gear ratio. Also if you express the value in an actual torque, you could work your way back to calculate the gear reduction for a pancake stepper you would use to replace your current X-value torque motor, that is left as an exercise.\n\nFrom 1.75 mm to 2.85 mm\n\nUnder the assumption that the force that the nozzle exerts on the build plate ($F_n$) is constant for different types of filament size, you would be able to calculate the ratio of force for the extruder ($F_{e}$) and nozzle of any filament diameter using the pressure in the nozzle using: \n\n$$ p=\\frac{F}{A} $$\n\nWhere, $p$ is the pressure, $F$ the force and $A$ the area. \n\n$$ p =\\frac{F_e}{A_e} = \\frac{F_n}{A_n} \\\\\nF_n=F_e\\frac{A_e}{A_n}=F_{e_{1.75}}\\frac{\\frac{1}{4}\\ \\pi\\ d_{1.75}^2}{\\frac{1}{4}\\ \\pi\\ d_{n}^2} = F_{e_{2.85}}\\frac{\\frac{1}{4}\\ \\pi\\ d_{2.85}^2}{\\frac{1}{4}\\ \\pi\\ d_{n}^2} \n$$\n\nWhere $d$ denotes a diameter of the nozzle or the filament. Subscripts $e$ and $n$ denote the extruder and the nozzle respectively.\n\nNote that the force that is generated by the extruder is derived from the stepper torque $\\tau$ directly, or through a geared drive (gearing ratio $R_{gear}$ ):\n\n$$\n\\tau_{e} = R_{gear}\\times\\tau_{stepper}\n$$\nNote, a gear ratio of 1 denotes direct drive.\n\nThe force would then be calculated by dividing the torque by the radius ($r$) of the extruder gear:\n\n$$\nF=\\frac{\\tau_e}{r}\n$$\n\nCombining equations gives us:\n\n$$\n\\begin{align*} \n&1.75\\ {filament}\\ \\Rightarrow F_n=\\left (\\frac{1\\times\\tau_{stepper}}{r_{e_{1.75}}}\\right )\\frac{d_{1.75}^2}{d_{n}^2} \\\\\n&2.85\\ {filament}\\ \\Rightarrow F_n=\\left (\\frac{R_{gear}\\times\\tau_{stepper}}{r_{e_{2.85}}}\\right )\\frac{d_{2.85}^2}{d_{n}^2} \n\\end{align*}\n$$\n\nWhich can be rewritten to:\n\n$$\nR_{gear} = \\frac{d_{1.75}^2}{d_{n}^2} \\times \\frac{d_{n}^2}{d_{2.85}^2} \\times \\frac{r_{e_{2.85}}}{r_{e_{1.75}}}\n$$\n\nNote that each $d_{n}^2$ is applicable to the nozzle size of the extruder. Hence, for similar nozzle sizes, the $d_{n}^2$ term cancels out:\n$$\nR_{gear} = \\frac{d_{1.75}^2}{d_{2.85}^2} \\times \\frac{r_{e_{2.85}}}{r_{e_{1.75}}}\n$$\n\nThis means that if you go from 1.75 mm to 2.85 mm filament, for the exact same extruder gear radius (which is not likely as you probably need a different extruder gear/hobbed bolt that can accommodate the larger diameter filament), the gear ratio is $1:2.65$ and therefore you need to reduce the speed accordingly.\n\nThe reason that you see different gearing ratios can not only be explained by differences in the extruder gear/hobbed bolt diameter differences, but also in stepper torque values.\n\nFor 3 mm filament the ratio will be in the order of $1:2.94$ for equivalent extruder gear radii and reuse of the same stepper.\n\nA similar calculation shows that for a 0.2 mm nozzle on a 2.85 mm filament extruder a gearing ratio of $ 1:5.3$ is required. This \"\"extra room\"\" for extra torque to fit smaller nozzles also explain the larger gear reductions. What is optimal is not only defined by the nozzle size and filament diameter but very dependent on the stepper motor and the torque it can produce. Gear reductions should be limited so that they do not minimize overall print speed or cause problems with retraction (this latter I experienced myself, a too high retraction speed caused the stepper to miss steps on my custom designed 1.75 mm to 2.85 mm bulldog extruder conversion. I'm using a $1:4$ speed reduction to produce enough torque with a stepper that is normally used for direct drive (of 1.75 mm filament). Note that within the aluminium bulldog housing, a different sized extruder gear is used to accommodate the larger diameter filament:\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n715,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jonathan Littleton,2.1782824847157594,5.852786671640637,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.6229190288168605,Point Cloud to STL File,\"I had a friend request that I print out the Bathymetry of Lake Michigan as a gift for her PhD adviser. I went to NOAA and the site had a few files for the Bathymetry of Lake Michigan.\n\nFiles and types are located here: http://www.ngdc.noaa.gov/mgg/greatlakes/michigan.html \n\nI am trying to convert this into an STL file to print in my 3D printer however I am having no luck in converting this into a mesh I can use. I have tried multiple approaches with the different files that are listed but cannot seem to get it to properly convert to a mesh. I have tried the following so far:\n\n-Import an .xyz file into MeshLab to convert it to an STL. After I import it looks like nothing imported and I can't navigate around in the file\n\n-Import an ASC file into MeshLab to convert it to an STL. After I import it, I get no errors but the output is a long, thin mesh that looks nothing like lake Michigan\n\n-Just for a test, I imported the .xyz file into Autodesk ReCap just to see what would happen. I noticed that the points were in a long thin area similar to the ASC import but as I browsed around I noticed that the each layer of dots was the actual Bathymetry contours.\n\nI have tried multiple approaches and software beyond these but can't seem to get the files to convert into a printable mesh that I can manipulate to send to my 3D printer.\n\",tbm0115,\"In order to properly get an STL file out of a point cloud, you'll need some tool to help triangulate the points to create proper vectors. The shell that is created in an STL is what the slicing engine will \"\"slice\"\".\n\nI'm not as familiar with the full potential of MeshLab, but I would think this tool is best suited for files that at least have most of shell already in place. Essentially best for fixing STL's.\n\nIn the past, I've used (the very expensive) Unigraphics NX8. This CAD/CAM software is very powerful and has tools for creating meshes out of point clouds. I believe it was the sew tool that allowed me to do this in the past (I no longer have access to the software). Other CAD programs such as SolidWorks, Rhino, AutoCAD, etc. might have similar features.\n\nAlternatively, I think it looks like you might be able to convert a 3D point cloud in SketchUp. If the cloud is layered by height and each layer had points on the same -Z- plane, then you might be able to automate creating lines between the nearest points on the same plane. Then it might just take a little bit of manual labor to \"\"fix\"\" the model to become 3D printing ready. Also check out this forum post, it looks like someone had luck in converting terrain point clouds.\n\nCompletely alternatively, have you considered converting an image to STL? I've done this many times before and it turns out quite nicely. If you can find topographical map of the lake, you could alter the image into grayscale (play with it a bit). Then use software to convert the grayscale image to STL.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n715,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jonathan Littleton,2.1782824847157594,5.852786671640637,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.6229190288168605,Point Cloud to STL File,\"I had a friend request that I print out the Bathymetry of Lake Michigan as a gift for her PhD adviser. I went to NOAA and the site had a few files for the Bathymetry of Lake Michigan.\n\nFiles and types are located here: http://www.ngdc.noaa.gov/mgg/greatlakes/michigan.html \n\nI am trying to convert this into an STL file to print in my 3D printer however I am having no luck in converting this into a mesh I can use. I have tried multiple approaches with the different files that are listed but cannot seem to get it to properly convert to a mesh. I have tried the following so far:\n\n-Import an .xyz file into MeshLab to convert it to an STL. After I import it looks like nothing imported and I can't navigate around in the file\n\n-Import an ASC file into MeshLab to convert it to an STL. After I import it, I get no errors but the output is a long, thin mesh that looks nothing like lake Michigan\n\n-Just for a test, I imported the .xyz file into Autodesk ReCap just to see what would happen. I noticed that the points were in a long thin area similar to the ASC import but as I browsed around I noticed that the each layer of dots was the actual Bathymetry contours.\n\nI have tried multiple approaches and software beyond these but can't seem to get the files to convert into a printable mesh that I can manipulate to send to my 3D printer.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"I was able to download the file collection from the link you posted, although I used none of the Grid files, as they seemed inappropriate to this task. The shape files were then imported into AutoCAD using the trial version of Spatial Manager.\n\nThe resulting drawing indicates that it's in 3D. When the 3D orbit tool is selected, the image rotates a flat drawing.\n\nI saved the AutoCAD DWG file and imported it with SketchUp, ostensibly not the smartest program for this sort of thing. The result was a flat image, not a 3D one.\n\nI suspect that the resulting flat drawing IS the image and cannot be 3D printed, unless you have reason to believe otherwise.\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n722,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Travis Pettry,3.618048892289167,5.4713495439874755,4.072585167927022,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,3.082726318457765,PETG Collecting on the Extruder,\"I have recently bought a spool of eSun PETG. So far I really like the filament. My only complaint is, I get lumps of charred filament deposited on my object. The slicer I used is Craft Ware and I have played with the Far Travel -> Elevation settings. I have noticed that this helps but then I have little to no adhesion to the print surface and my supports do not stick to the raft. Does any one know how to mitigated PETG from collecting on the extruder?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"Different brands and blends of PET filaments seem to do this to different degrees. Esun's PETG is definitely one that tends to glob onto the nozzle. Basically, the nozzle plows through the top surface of the filament and lifts up some plastic, much like the bow of a ship lifting up some water at high speeds. PET's viscosity and stickiness seem to amplify this effect more than other filaments. \n\nSome things you can do to minimize the globbing:\n\n\nCalibrate extrusion volume on the low end of what you'd normally use for other filaments (how you do this depends on your slicer)\nUse your slicer's \"\"Z-hop\"\" or \"\"avoid perimeters\"\" feature so you don't do travel moves across printed surfaces\nInvest in an anti-stick coated nozzle, such as are sold by Micro Swiss or Performance 3-d (these don't eliminate globbing, but they do reduce it and make the nozzle much easier to clean)\nPlay with slicer settings such as extrusion width, layer height, and infill/perimeter overlap to reduce the amount of \"\"excess material\"\" that sticks above the print surface\n\n\nAgain, this is a common problem with PET blend filaments. Anecdotally, some brands seem to glob more or less than others, so switching to a different vendor may be worth trying if you want to do a lot of PETG prints. \n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n722,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Travis Pettry,3.618048892289167,5.4713495439874755,4.072585167927022,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,3.082726318457765,PETG Collecting on the Extruder,\"I have recently bought a spool of eSun PETG. So far I really like the filament. My only complaint is, I get lumps of charred filament deposited on my object. The slicer I used is Craft Ware and I have played with the Far Travel -> Elevation settings. I have noticed that this helps but then I have little to no adhesion to the print surface and my supports do not stick to the raft. Does any one know how to mitigated PETG from collecting on the extruder?\n\",dgrat,\"PETG strings at working temperature to different extents depending on brand. Some of the thinner strings are flying in the air due to the fan or mechanical stress, and are finally captured by the hot end.\nI feel, PETG has two modes\n\n\nToo cold: Less to no stringing, but sometimes underextrusion and weak layer bonding\nHot enough: Stringing (from weak to strong) but good bonding\n\n\nThings which do not help (at least least on my printer with direct extruder), but which I tried out individually\n\n\nRetractions past 1.5 mm on my direct extruders\nReducing minimum distance\nRetraction speed 30 to 60 mm/s\nZ-hops\nFan speed 30% to 100%\n\n\nThings I have not tested\n\n\nMaybe minimum layer time could be increased\n\n\nThings that worked\n\n\nCoasting seems the only thing which helps, but you still have very thin strings at sufficient temperatures\n\n\nOther things to consider\n\n\nAs mentioned the PETG brand has a certain impact\nThe worst Co-Polyester I tested were (by far) the XT-Filaments (pink and green)\nAll regular PETG filaments were better than XT in nearly every aspect, but still tend to string to a certain degree\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n732,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,nnscr,3.767809650974757,6.304447383466805,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,4.620985695623129,3.7272071097011072,What's the advantage of two z motors?,\"Some RepRap models use only a single motor for the Z axis, others use two.\n\nFor example, there is the 3drag that has only one motor and a smooth rod on the other side. There are modifications that add a threaded rod on the other side that is connected to the motor axis with a belt - which seems to be a really good solution.\n\nOther printers, like the Prusa i3 or the Mendel90 have two Z motors. And after playing around with a two motor model, I find it pretty annoying when they get out of sync and I need to calibrate the axis and the print bed again. So two motors seem more like an disadvantage to me.\n\nCould someone please shed some light on why most RepRaps have two Z motors (nowadays)?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"There are three main options here for Mendel style ZX gantries:\n\n\nOne Z screw and motor, which is similar to a cantilevered design but somewhat more stable because of the opposite smooth rod\nTwo Z screws and two motors\nTwo Z screws and one motor, with belt synchronization of the two sides\n\n\nOf all of these, running two screws off one motor is clearly superior in reliability and user-friendliness. There is no risk of the two sides of the Z stage going out of sync. One motor running at higher current will generally out-perform two motors splitting one driver's current via parallel wiring, because one motor with twice the torque can push much harder when one side of the gantry binds up or hits a rough spot. \n\nThe only real downside to the single motor, double screw approach is that it requires more engineering and parts. A closed-loop timing belt must be run between the two screws, with associated pulleys, tensioner, and support bearings. In comparison, using a separate motor for each screw is very simple. It adds a stepper and a shaft coupler, but saves a lot of vitamins and design complexity.\n\nTwo-motor, two-screw solutions are lower-cost and simpler to design. That's why they're used. End of story.\n\nOne-motor, one-screw Mendel style printers are quite rare. The passive side of the Z mechanism does add a little bit of stability to the X stage, but not a lot. It's possible to rack the X stage out of square with the bed and bind up the gantry. In order to work at all, they require a very wide/tall bearing footprint on the driven side to resist torque exerted on the driven side by the weight of the X stage and extruder carriage. So it's true that they don't have synchronization issues, but additional design challenges and undesirable flexure modes are introduced. It's much more common for one-screw designs to simply cantilever out the X stage, like a SmartRap or Printrbot Simple. \n\",3.9604314711224866,2.0769199823829045\n732,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,nnscr,3.767809650974757,6.304447383466805,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,4.620985695623129,3.7272071097011072,What's the advantage of two z motors?,\"Some RepRap models use only a single motor for the Z axis, others use two.\n\nFor example, there is the 3drag that has only one motor and a smooth rod on the other side. There are modifications that add a threaded rod on the other side that is connected to the motor axis with a belt - which seems to be a really good solution.\n\nOther printers, like the Prusa i3 or the Mendel90 have two Z motors. And after playing around with a two motor model, I find it pretty annoying when they get out of sync and I need to calibrate the axis and the print bed again. So two motors seem more like an disadvantage to me.\n\nCould someone please shed some light on why most RepRaps have two Z motors (nowadays)?\n\",Holger,\"First up: I'm no expert. All of the below is guesswork.\n\nI think that the main reason is that it makes for a simpler design. \n\nIf you hold the X-Axis only on one side, you have to keep it level through rigidity. (Especially if you have the extruder motor on that axis.) If you try to control the sagging, you have a problem because the torque changes depending on the position of the extruder.\n\nFor stepper motors to go out of sync, one has to miss steps. Regardless on whether you have one or two or seventeen motors, if you are missing steps, you need to debug it.\n\nI got lots of missed steps in both X and Y, and I tried everything. Until I found out that I was actually missing steps in Z, and the nozzle was hitting the build.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n739,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user962,2.1782824847157594,3.5228313775130022,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Which photopolymer for printing?,\"I am thinking about building my own DLP 3D printer. I want to know which uv curing resin I should use.\n\nAlso, I came across a continuous 3D printing technology where oxygen permeable glass was used to stop the photopolymer toching the glass from hardening so the cured photopolymer wont stick to the glass. What resin additives are used to achive this?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"I think you will find that it will be necessary for you to tune your own printer to a specific resin. Even as important, you would expect to have different parameters for different colors of resin, as each will absorb the UV to a different degree.\n\nYou haven't provided parameters in your request for which resin to use. You will consider availability and cost of the material you select, as well as the UV light frequency for which a particular product is specified. Temperature range of use is another critical detail.\n\nYou'll want to avoid resins for which the manufacturer does not provide specifications of that sort. \n\nIf you pursue this route, you'll find and learn quite a bit.\n\nRegarding the resin additives for non-hardening: I have not seen such a product and I would not be surprised to learn that it is a proprietary substance and as such, a company secret.\n\nThere is a recent development of a similar note, a positive one, in my opinion. There is a silicone compound that forum posts have indicated allow the resin to release with minimal or no difficulty and the clarity lasts weeks of use. Current use of Sylgard or the equivalent means frequent re-builds of the vat due to cloudiness of the silicone or tearing of the surface due to excessive stickiness.\n\nBreakable Glass Silicone has developed quite a following on the B9Creator forums for solving (or substantially reducing) those two factors. That alone justifies the immense expense of shipping from Australia, in my opinion.\n\nThe easy release of the layers of the model from the surface would mean far more reliability in printing. You should/could consider this product for your project as it removes the requirement for questionable additives.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n740,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Cerberus,4.030301511886631,4.050760051113303,1.7539669625835614,5.646830619998737,4.503257053771732,2.8086301675739853,Good (preferably free) Beginner Software for Part Creation?,\"What software is best for the basest of n00bs when it comes to 3D parts creation?\n\nI have a heavy math background and know how to create explicit functions of volume, surface area, center of mass, etc. Ideally, I'd like a program that uses those strengths but I realize that most n00bs have a crippling math phobia so I'm not holding my breath.\n\nI tried freeCAD once and made some headway but the next time I turned my computer on, it refused to open. It was just a weakling netbook that I don't even have in my possession anymore but the computer I'm currently using is rather slow and doesn't seem to have much memory left either, so I still need something lightweight.\n\ntl;dr: Seeking a free, lightweight program to create .stl files that is good for n00bs that are not afraid of math.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"I don't have a heavy math background, but enjoy using such skills when applicable.\n\nIf you've not yet explored OpenSCAD, you may find that it meets your qualifications. It's more or less a scripting/descriptive language \"\"compiler\"\" that takes ordinary text and converts it to your model design. I use quotes, because I'm not skilled enough to qualify it as a true compiler, although it works in a similar manner and may indeed be a compiler.\n\nIt meets another qualification of yours in that it's free and there's quite a supportive mailing list/forum for any questions or difficulties that arise. If you look on Thingiverse using OpenSCAD as a search term, you'll find others' code available for examination and integration into your own models.\n\nFor the folks who are not so much into the math and text and logic, there's a GUI of sorts for OpenSCAD called BlocksCAD that allows drag and drop of various modules in a manner akin to Scratch programming. \n\nI'd been using OpenSCAD long enough that I found BlocksCAD to overly complicate the creation of models by obscuring details. It may be better suited for younger model makers in that respect.\n\nSyntax and punctuation errors would be eliminated with BlocksCAD, while it's far too easy to create such errors in the editor for OpenSCAD. One gets used to it and error count quickly is reduced.\n\",3.859531739127555,2.0769199823829045\n740,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Cerberus,4.030301511886631,4.050760051113303,1.7539669625835614,5.646830619998737,4.503257053771732,2.8086301675739853,Good (preferably free) Beginner Software for Part Creation?,\"What software is best for the basest of n00bs when it comes to 3D parts creation?\n\nI have a heavy math background and know how to create explicit functions of volume, surface area, center of mass, etc. Ideally, I'd like a program that uses those strengths but I realize that most n00bs have a crippling math phobia so I'm not holding my breath.\n\nI tried freeCAD once and made some headway but the next time I turned my computer on, it refused to open. It was just a weakling netbook that I don't even have in my possession anymore but the computer I'm currently using is rather slow and doesn't seem to have much memory left either, so I still need something lightweight.\n\ntl;dr: Seeking a free, lightweight program to create .stl files that is good for n00bs that are not afraid of math.\n\",jadsq,\"The software I began with was Tinkercad, it is a fully online solution that is very beginner friendly. The interface is trivial to use and there's a 15 minutes tutorial that guides you over everything the software has to offer to the common user.\n\nHere is a screenshot of the interface and a part I made using the basic tools :\n\n\nIt works the following way : you are provided with a dozen basic shapes (cube, sphere, etc...) and you create your model using boolean combinations of those shapes and translation, rotation and scaling. That's for the base.\n\nThen there is a very large collection of more complex shapes provided by the community (screw, stairs, tree) that tend to be very useful to create specific things and a very important aspect is that those shape usually have some parameter you can adjust at the creation of the object (say the thickness of the trunk and the number of branches of your tree). \n\nThe last increment of complexity is that those community objects are actually made using JavaScript (with their own API, it's not related to openjscad) and you can create your own objects by using their interactive JavaScript interface. That's when your programming and mathematical knowledge will be required.\n\nAs a small PS note: my personal taste is, depending on the part I want to make, to use either Tinkercad, Freecad or Openscad\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n744,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Anton Sherwood,3.0576060275493275,3.293352546145431,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Triangulation adapted to curvature,\"I don't know whether this belongs here (where most of the questions appear to be about hardware) or on Math or on Blender (though I've never used Blender).\n\nAll of the designs that I've published so far consist of grids of bent ‘rods’, and in most of them the spacing of vertices depends on the rod's local curvature; that's easy enough. But I think some of these figures would look better as continuous surfaces, and it's not obvious to me how to arrange the vertices efficiently — that is, to triangulate the surface just finely enough that it's accurate to within the printer's resolution.\n\nSo: given a surface defined by well-behaved functions x(u,v), y(u,v), z(u,v), is there a standard way to choose vertices in u,v space so that the length of each edge is roughly proportional to the radius of curvature in its direction?\n\",Lars Pötter,\"For 3d printing this is not very relevant. The triangles only exist in the File read by the slicer. And there are file-formats that can describe rods without the need to use triangles.\n\nIf you create a model in a format that uses triangles than just use enough of them to get your model described fully. (millions of very small triangles) That is probably a waste on part where it has less details, but that just makes the file a bit bigger.\n\nThe problem of best print quality doesn't end there.\n\nThe slicer looks at the triangfles and creates a 2d image of the intersection of the triangles with the layer hight. It then creates g_COde paths along the lines in this 2d image for every Layer. Using triangles to describe the model will only give small line segments for these 2d slices. Therefore the G-Code creates will only have straight line movements (G0, G1).\n\nWith a format that can describe curves, the slicer could end up with circles and arcs on the 2d slice and could then use G2 and G3 moves. And if the Firmware of your printer understands these commands you would get the best possible quality with rather small model files.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n752,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,jamess,3.452496054252184,4.614678381024204,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.548335113978322,2.880918201452841,How to cut OpenBeam/MakerBeam?,\"I'm building a 3D printer and I've been looking around for materials suitable to make the frame.\n\nI have occasional access to a laser cutter which I could use to manufacture a ply box-type (UltiMaker) enclosure, but I like the ease of adjustment provided by the T-slot beam kits.\n\nI don't have any metal-cutting machine tools. Can aluminium beam be cut by hand with a hacksaw to a good degree of accuracy? How does one finish the cut end?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Aluminum of almost every grade is very easy to cut with a hacksaw. I would suggest to mark clearly the cut line and to wrap masking tape at the edge of the cut. Consider to allow for about 2-3 millimeters (1/16\"\") extra material for final finishing. Cut across the line, rotate the part ninety degrees and cut again. Once you have the guide cuts in place, you should be able to manage a square cut by following those guides\n\nYou will want to have a clamping mechanism available, such as a vise or workbench type device. \n\nAfter the cut is done, use a sharp file to make final adjustments to the length and appearance. Push the file, do not drag it backwards. Push forward, lift away from the work piece as you return, then push again. Pick up a file card, which is a fine metal-tooth brush used to clear the teeth of the file.\n\nIt is very easy to remove material with a hand file, perhaps three or four strokes to remove 1/16\"\".\n\nYour accuracy will depend on the measurement of the lines you create and how carefully you file to the edge of those lines.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n752,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,jamess,3.452496054252184,4.614678381024204,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.548335113978322,2.880918201452841,How to cut OpenBeam/MakerBeam?,\"I'm building a 3D printer and I've been looking around for materials suitable to make the frame.\n\nI have occasional access to a laser cutter which I could use to manufacture a ply box-type (UltiMaker) enclosure, but I like the ease of adjustment provided by the T-slot beam kits.\n\nI don't have any metal-cutting machine tools. Can aluminium beam be cut by hand with a hacksaw to a good degree of accuracy? How does one finish the cut end?\n\",Brad Stansell,\"Misumi does provide a nice product but it's quite clear their business model is geared toward businesses and not the individual consumer.\n\nThe 2020 extrusion seems to be a bear to get parts for, specifically T-nuts and braces. Openbeam or Makerbeam might be better options and are readily available on Amazon for very decent prices. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n760,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,zaatifi,2.1782824847157594,4.191597858718162,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Analytic equations to make algorithm of 3D printer,\"I have a project in the 3D printing. the aim of the project is to realize the control of the 3D printing. \n\nthe type of the printer is a printer with cables.\n\nthe problem seems to have some development both in mechanical and robotics engineering. \n\nfirst of all, as our tutor said, we should find the dynamical and the geometrical equations and from those equations, we can find the algorithm to control the system of the 3 D printing. \n\nWell, my question is particularly about the dynamical equations in 2D as you can see in the picture above.\n\nthe idea is to find equations of : \n- L1 and L2 in terms of xa and ya : which I already found as you can see in the picture\n- xa and ya and teta in terms of L1 and L2: which I cannot find ! I would lilke you to help in this point.\n\nthank you in advance\n\n\n\nAnd here, I add the dynamic equations and I would like you to check if it is ok \n\n\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"As shown, the mechanics are under-constrained. You can't solve for theta because you have three degrees of freedom (X, Y, theta) and only two constraints (L1, L2). Gravity will tend to bias theta in a particular orientation, but the geometrical stiffness of this arrangement will be so low that it will not be possible to do 3D printing. \n\nTo calculate the free-hanging orientation of theta, you will need to know the center of gravity of the end-effector, and solve a system of equations to find the angles and tensions for each cable that produce force vectors which sum to equilibrium with the gravity force vector through the COG. Unfortunately, the tensions will be a function of the angles, so it's not trivial to solve. As a hint, the virtual intersection of the two cables will be coincident with or directly above the COG in all equilibrium positions, and the horizontal components of the tensions in the two cables will be equal. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n762,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Silux,2.528907649931287,4.304542232854798,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,it is worth to protect electronics with a 3d printed case?,\"PLA is flammable, but a good case can protect the main board from dirt.\n\nIt's worth to protect it with a 3d printed case?\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"As pointed out by Ryan Carlyle, not all 3D printing filament is flammable (such as PET and PETG), and the question therefore rather becomes:\n\nCan 3D printing be used to make proper electronic cases?\n\nAnd the short answer to that is yes. 3D printing allows to make customized cases of all varieties. Also, since there is huge variety of materials available, you not only restricted to cases of plastic filaments - should this be of interest.\n\nThen again, it all depends on what you are protecting your electronics from. If you plan on submerging your electronics into water or throw them into a fire, 3D printing might not work for you at all. If dust protection is your only concern, however, 3D printed cases should do just fine in most cases.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n762,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Silux,2.528907649931287,4.304542232854798,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,it is worth to protect electronics with a 3d printed case?,\"PLA is flammable, but a good case can protect the main board from dirt.\n\nIt's worth to protect it with a 3d printed case?\n\",Dewi Morgan,\"It depends.\n\nProtecting your electronics from being touched by random bits of conductive material which would short and fry them is always a good idea.\n\nIf it's something that will be visible, then a pleasant printed casing might go well. You might just as well use any other casing though, there's no requirement it be 3D printed.\n\nFor a very small circuitboard (an inch or less) heatshrink tubing might be a better form of protection. Or just insulating tape.\n\nIf you never intend to access the circuitry again and heat dissipation isn't a big issue, then just putting the whole lot in potting compound may work best for you - complete waterproofing and environmental protection.\n\nOr you could just tape a bit of plastic from a 2l coke bottle over it, and get 99% of the protection you'll ever need, and still keep the circuit visible and accessible.\n\nUltimately, it boils down to: Do you want it to be covered? If so, by what? If you would prefer a 3D printed case, then do you want it enough that it is worth the time and effort to you?\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n764,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user273872,2.1782824847157594,3.5837050697726562,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,\"When building the ramps 1.4 is it safe to use small wires to jump the 5A, 12V power input over to the 11 Amp input\",\"The idea is so you only need two long wires going from the power supply to the electronics boards. I'm sure I saw this done in a tutorial somewhere, but I can't for the life of me find the source. Also I just bought a kit and the build manual says to use four wires, but only two wires come with the kit, so I recalled that bit of advice in the tutorial and thought hmm either they shorted me those wires, or they just expect me to make do with two. Perhaps the jumping method is common practice? But then why have a plug on the ramps board with four inputs? Why not just two inputs and split it internally if need be?\n\",kamuro,\"I guess that the external split is at least partly done to force the user to utilize 4 wires. 16 Amps at 12 Volts is quite a bit of power and you don't want your wires or connectors to melt. If you use twice the wire cross section by using 4 instead of 2 wires, you also reduce the resistivity and hence heat created in the wire.\n\nPut it the other way around: Using 2 instead of 4 wires raises the risk of your setup to catch fire.\n\nStill, you can use that bridging technique, if you make sure that all your wire diameters are big enough.\n\nI would advise you, however, to cut the wires that come with your kit in half and use the connectors in the way they were meant to. For optical appeal and less cable clutter you can still put the wires into some braided sleeve for example.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n880,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user273872,2.528907649931287,4.745748088766768,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.306096197889172,Is there a reason for the z-axis M5 drive nut to be super loose on the lead screw?,\"So I bought a prusa i3 kit from a company called folger tech off of ebay. I've built it and even printed out a few parts, but I noticed that a lot of noise seemed to be happening only while the x-axis motor was moving the extruder. Then I noticed if I put my finger lightly on the plastic part of the x-carriage I could dampen the vibrations and pretty much eliminate the noise I noticed. Then I took apart that part of the printer and examined everything and all I could notice that seemed to be loose was that nut that allows the z motor to push up the x carriage. I don't know if I got a bad nut, or a bad screw, or is it's just supposed to be this way? I thought it was kind of a weird way to build things with a screw turning a nut, because I thought that it would bind up. But now I'm wondering if that is why it was so loose fitting (to reduce friction)? So does it need to be that way? Or could I get a different nut? Or is there some better way to go about fixing this issue? Or perhaps it's not even an issue.. idk.\n\",kamuro,\"I do not agree with the answer of Tom.\n\nIn a proper design, the nut is supposed NOT to be loose, especially in the Z-direction. All options of the nut to move can cause imprecise layer heights and Z-wobble. There is also the possibility to introduce Z-wobble by bent rods and good contact of the nut. However, Z-wobble is not what I want to address.\n\nYes, to me, it seems possible that your rod or your nut (or both) are looser than they are supposed to be. However, I don't know the exact design of your printer. Usually there is some play along the axis, but hardly any perpendicular to it. Typically this can introduce a hysteresis (wikipedia link) in the placement of the X-carriage. There is a nifty design against this, which most likely should also help you to get rid of your noise: Thingverse: Z-axis anti backlash for Prusa i3. \n\nFirst, however, you should check the following:\n\n\nAre both your Z-axis drives set to the same height, or is just one of them doing the work (which would be very rare, by the nature of the design)?\nIs your nut lose in the X-carriage? While the nut should not be lose itself, it should be totally fixed in the X-carriage (again: typically, but I don't know the FolgerTech approach).\nTry other nuts from the hardware store to be sure whether you have a faulty nut or not.\nWhile you're there you can connect a threaded rod with nuts there to gain experience what the typical degree of freedom in this union is.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n880,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user273872,2.528907649931287,4.745748088766768,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.306096197889172,Is there a reason for the z-axis M5 drive nut to be super loose on the lead screw?,\"So I bought a prusa i3 kit from a company called folger tech off of ebay. I've built it and even printed out a few parts, but I noticed that a lot of noise seemed to be happening only while the x-axis motor was moving the extruder. Then I noticed if I put my finger lightly on the plastic part of the x-carriage I could dampen the vibrations and pretty much eliminate the noise I noticed. Then I took apart that part of the printer and examined everything and all I could notice that seemed to be loose was that nut that allows the z motor to push up the x carriage. I don't know if I got a bad nut, or a bad screw, or is it's just supposed to be this way? I thought it was kind of a weird way to build things with a screw turning a nut, because I thought that it would bind up. But now I'm wondering if that is why it was so loose fitting (to reduce friction)? So does it need to be that way? Or could I get a different nut? Or is there some better way to go about fixing this issue? Or perhaps it's not even an issue.. idk.\n\",darth pixel,\"I agree with Tom about looseness.\n\nI would suggest 2 solutions:\n\n\nUse grease which will reduce friction (and vibrations as a consequence); \nUse better clutch (coupling). Full aluminium couplings are prone to conduct noise (vibrations) from the threaded rod. You can use Oldham coupling with a plastic floating member. This will definitely reduce noise on Z axis.\n\n\nOf course you are encouraged to use both solutions :)\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n887,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user273872,3.618048892289167,4.540596338014611,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,4.620985695623129,4.099094618364796,How many times can you re-flash the Marlin firmware to a RAMPS 1.4 board before it degrades the ROM?,\"First of all I'm working with a Folger Tech Prusa i3 kit, if that makes a difference. Also I believe the Arduino is a Mega 2560.\n\nI know somewhere in the back of my head that electrically programmable ROM like what must be on the Arduino board storing the firmware degrades a little, each time you write to it. Right now I'm trying to calibrate away another print problem, and I think I need to modify the firmware yet again, which I've already done several times. So I'm starting to worry about how many times I can do that.\n\nWell, once I remembered the acronym \"\"EEPROM\"\", and after a little googling, I came across this, Arduino - EEPROM, which says that it can handle 100k cycles, so I think I'm onto the answer, but the problem is I'm not sure if a cycle is an entire file being uploaded? Wouldn't it be a single blip of data? And if so how many cycles would the average Marlin file consume?\n\nI also found this:\n\n\n but I'd be very surprised if I've uploaded to it more than 2000 times\n\n\non Mega2560 bricked? not detected, DFU failing, indicating that the answer might be as low as 2000. \n\nAlso, this:\n\n\n Failure modes\n \n There are two limitations of stored information; endurance, and data\n retention.\n \n During rewrites, the gate oxide in the floating-gate transistors\n gradually accumulates trapped electrons. The electric field of the\n trapped electrons adds to the electrons in the floating gate, lowering\n the window between threshold voltages for zeros vs ones. After\n sufficient number of rewrite cycles, the difference becomes too small\n to be recognizable, the cell is stuck in programmed state, and\n endurance failure occurs. The manufacturers usually specify the\n maximum number of rewrites being 1 million or more.[5]\n \n During storage, the electrons injected into the floating gate may\n drift through the insulator, especially at increased temperature, and\n cause charge loss, reverting the cell into erased state. The\n manufacturers usually guarantee data retention of 10 years or more.[6]\n\n\nfrom Wikipedia: EEPROM - Failure Modes, indicating the answer might be into the millions.\n\nAt this point I'm just wondering if an expert might see this and relieve my angst...\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The EEPROM is not where the program itself is stored, what's relevant for your question is the flash. The flash in the ATmega2560 is rated for 10,000 cycles (i.e. you can reprogram it at least 10,000 times).\n\",3.9604314711224866,0.0\n887,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user273872,3.618048892289167,4.540596338014611,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,4.620985695623129,4.099094618364796,How many times can you re-flash the Marlin firmware to a RAMPS 1.4 board before it degrades the ROM?,\"First of all I'm working with a Folger Tech Prusa i3 kit, if that makes a difference. Also I believe the Arduino is a Mega 2560.\n\nI know somewhere in the back of my head that electrically programmable ROM like what must be on the Arduino board storing the firmware degrades a little, each time you write to it. Right now I'm trying to calibrate away another print problem, and I think I need to modify the firmware yet again, which I've already done several times. So I'm starting to worry about how many times I can do that.\n\nWell, once I remembered the acronym \"\"EEPROM\"\", and after a little googling, I came across this, Arduino - EEPROM, which says that it can handle 100k cycles, so I think I'm onto the answer, but the problem is I'm not sure if a cycle is an entire file being uploaded? Wouldn't it be a single blip of data? And if so how many cycles would the average Marlin file consume?\n\nI also found this:\n\n\n but I'd be very surprised if I've uploaded to it more than 2000 times\n\n\non Mega2560 bricked? not detected, DFU failing, indicating that the answer might be as low as 2000. \n\nAlso, this:\n\n\n Failure modes\n \n There are two limitations of stored information; endurance, and data\n retention.\n \n During rewrites, the gate oxide in the floating-gate transistors\n gradually accumulates trapped electrons. The electric field of the\n trapped electrons adds to the electrons in the floating gate, lowering\n the window between threshold voltages for zeros vs ones. After\n sufficient number of rewrite cycles, the difference becomes too small\n to be recognizable, the cell is stuck in programmed state, and\n endurance failure occurs. The manufacturers usually specify the\n maximum number of rewrites being 1 million or more.[5]\n \n During storage, the electrons injected into the floating gate may\n drift through the insulator, especially at increased temperature, and\n cause charge loss, reverting the cell into erased state. The\n manufacturers usually guarantee data retention of 10 years or more.[6]\n\n\nfrom Wikipedia: EEPROM - Failure Modes, indicating the answer might be into the millions.\n\nAt this point I'm just wondering if an expert might see this and relieve my angst...\n\",Lars Pötter,\"The AVR has SRAM for variables (what is usually called RAM), it has EEPROM for non volatile variables and it has flash for the executable code. (Harvard Architecture!)\n\nFor re-flashing the firmware neither SRAM nor EEPROM write rates are important, but the Flash rates are. The flash write rates are in the region of 100 thousand to a million so that should not be a problem.\n\nThe article you linked also states that he did not more than 2000 rewrites and therefore should be fine. I can only agree. A few thousand re-flashes is no problem. Once you get closer to 100 thousand you can start to worry.\n\nFlash bits can only be written from 1 to 0. Erasing the flash writes all bits to 1. Erasing can only be done on a flash page (size is device dependent but usually a multiple of 512).\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n783,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Michael Potter,2.528907649931287,4.065321832037903,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,Printing insoles,\"I would like to make custom insoles for my wife.\n\nThis company makes a flexible filament that will be soft to stand on:\nhttp://recreus.com/en/\n\nI do not currently own a printer.\n\nHow can I measure her feet and transfer the measurements to the printer?\n(one of these comes to mind: http://www.eggheadtoys.com/pin-art/)\n\nHow can I measure the inside of the shoe?\n\nWhat kind of printer can print with the flexible filament?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Many questions in one post, but I'll address only the first. Consider to use a shoe with a flat insole, perhaps even what is commonly called a flip-flop. If your objective is to perfectly match the curve of her foot bottom, this should work. Apply a layer of polymer modeling clay, plasticine or similar material. It should be warm enough to permit her foot/feet to settle in and push enough material away to remove any voids. If voids appear, one could then add a few blobs and repeat the pressure.\n\nObviously some will ooze from the sides, which will have to be trimmed away. Trim a sufficient amount to fit her regular shoes and you'll have a reasonable match of the necessary fit.\n\nThe resulting shape can then be scanned with a 3d scanner and converted to a 3d model. Even if the clay is excessively thick, the typical 3d model editor can slice away the excess, although one would have to make an almost arbitrary judgement for the location of the slicing plane.\n\nAnother option comes to mind. There are various silicone molding products. I've used one from makeyourownmolds.com that is of a consistency of frosting. When mixed together and applied, it makes a perfect duplicate of the item, in reverse. Another product sold at the local HobbyLobby is a similar molding compound that is more akin to the modeling clay.\n\nBoth compounds will release easily from skin, are non-toxic and would provide a more durable model from which to scan. \n\nI think one difficulty you may have is how to determine the correct foot pressure and posture to achieve the desired results. The modeling clay would give you more support and probably be more accurate. If your objective is to provide the same support as a bare foot, the silicone molding method would be more accurate.\n\nIf you stretch the concept even further, once you have the silicone or clay mold, you would be able to use the pin-art concept. The idea of measuring each tiny pin is mind-boggling, though.\n\",0.0,0.0\n783,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Michael Potter,2.528907649931287,4.065321832037903,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,Printing insoles,\"I would like to make custom insoles for my wife.\n\nThis company makes a flexible filament that will be soft to stand on:\nhttp://recreus.com/en/\n\nI do not currently own a printer.\n\nHow can I measure her feet and transfer the measurements to the printer?\n(one of these comes to mind: http://www.eggheadtoys.com/pin-art/)\n\nHow can I measure the inside of the shoe?\n\nWhat kind of printer can print with the flexible filament?\n\",user77232,\"I have given this some thought prior since, I am also in need of such things, so here is my 2 cents.\n\n\n How can I measure her feet and transfer the measurements to the\n printer?\n\n\nIf you want to be very accurate, then you will need a 3d scanner. Failing this, then you're most likely going to have to take an outline. Just let her stand on a piece of paper and draw an outline of her foot. Next get a document scanner and scan the trace. You could also take a photo but you will have issues getting the correct scale. Assuming your outline is black, convert the scanned outline to a vector file using an online source or Adobe Illustrator (e.g https://vectormagic.com). \nOnce you have a vector outline then import it into your cad software and begin modeling the insole.\n\n\n How can I measure the inside of the shoe?\n\n\nRemove the exsisting insole (if possible) and scan it in a document scanner.\n\n\n What kind of printer can print with the flexible filament?\n\n\nAny direct drive extruder can print with Ninjaflex or other flexible filament. You could also try PORO-LAY, but it is much more expensive. I'd advise you to do you test runs in PLA or something cheap until you get the correct fit.\n\",0.0,0.0\n789,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Berit Larsen,3.267423727073639,4.133816737620166,0.0,4.670422881206417,4.091740895605862,3.265283966335819,Is 3D printing a good way to save money?,\"If you already have a 3D printer, would you say that you have saved money on buying the printer, buying models and then printing the models, compared to buying something alike in retail?\n\nWould you say that saving money is an argument to buy a 3D printer?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"You'll never net a profit 3D printing the equivalent of Dollar Store trinkets. Commercial-scale injection molding costs pennies per part, while 3D printing typically costs dollars per part. It's great every so often when you can replace an out-of-stock widget and rescue a major appliance from the trash heap, but those instances are pretty rare. \n\nWhat 3D printing lets you do is make stuff that simply wouldn't exist otherwise. That could mean clever gadgets that can't be manufactured any other way, or niche items that don't have enough volume to be economical via traditional manufacturing and sales channels, or one-off prototypes or art projects. Those may be very high value items! But it's difficult to assign a dollar value to them.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n789,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Berit Larsen,3.267423727073639,4.133816737620166,0.0,4.670422881206417,4.091740895605862,3.265283966335819,Is 3D printing a good way to save money?,\"If you already have a 3D printer, would you say that you have saved money on buying the printer, buying models and then printing the models, compared to buying something alike in retail?\n\nWould you say that saving money is an argument to buy a 3D printer?\n\",FivePixels,\"Yes and No.\n\nThere are two sides of this, yes and no. Why I say yes is because there are little things that the 3D Printer can come in use for, like creating charger holders or just little household objects. The no side of this for me would be because of the cost of the filament in general and the maximum object size you can create with your 3D Printer. I know they have bigger ones out there, but you aren't going to make anything too big. Another reason it's a no is because of duration of time. It may save you money, but your going to be spending a lot more time and possibly more money the bigger your objects get, which is the only reason I'm not trying to get one at the moment. I'm choosing to wait until technologies advance to get my personal one, where it doesn't take over an hour to print out a keychain tag.\n\nSo yes, you probably could save money in the long run, depending on what you create with it based on size and how much filament you use, but I'm also going to say no because of the disadvantages the 3D Printer has. I personally would wait for technology to advance in the next 5-15 years before buying one that has a lot more power than these, as the one's currently in the market are expensive.\n\n\n\nEDIT: As I stated in my reasoning, I currently do not own a 3D Printer, but I do use one at my school for educational purposes and I do know the hassle on time and money for creating products that are relatively small in size.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n796,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dakota Miller,1.726248027126092,4.502694022229953,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,HE3D-XI3 3D printer Repetier software config help!,\"I am new to 3d printing and had bought my first 3d printer a couple of months ago. I have it all put together and the software uploaded to the Arduino. However, I need some help with configuration and calibration of the printer. I understand that there is a configuration file that can be changed and uploaded again the create those changes. I also have worked with Arduino before so I know the IDE. \n\nWhen I turn the printer on everything works, as far as I know. I did some tests to see if anything was wrong, but I couldn't find anything. However, when I hit home for all of the x, y and z axis to go to their starting marks, it tries to go past the rails and comes apart. From what I understand this is a configuration issue. \n\nI tried to contact HE3D about this, but received no answer, so you guys are my last hope. If you need any more information to help me, let me know and i'll try getting it to you asap. (I also have read the documentation on Repetier and the installation and configuration section but my brain for some reason is not clicking into gear.) \n\nThanks for the help in advanced!!! Here are the specs:\nhttps://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/reprap-prusa-xi3\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"Based on some troubleshooting in the question comments, it appears that the issue here is the motors running the wrong way. This can be fixed EITHER by inverting the motor directions in firmware, OR by simply flipping the orientation of the motor plugs where they connect to the controller board. Flipping the plugs is an easy and quick way to reverse the phase of a stepper and thus reverse its direction of motion.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n826,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dakota Miller,3.0576060275493275,4.339201683554926,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Beginner in calibrating HE3D Prusa XI3,\"This is my first time calibrating my printer and I'm not sure where to start. The printer is running Repetier v0.91 firmware that came on the SD card that came with the printer. \n\nAnyway, the question I have is where do I start calibrating and how would I go about it? I have read on Google many ways and it seems there are different opinions. I am reading this at the moment: RepRap Wiki - Calibration. \n\",Josip Ivic,\"There's a great tutorial here on youtube.\n\nAnd personally my favourite is this tutorial.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n857,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dakota Miller,3.0576060275493275,4.676375798017904,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Adjusting the Z end stop?,\"I have adjusted my z axis end stop via the paper test. However when I press to home all the axis the z axis hits the print bed moves it down slightly then goes to the postion I describe. Is this how its supose to be if not what do I need to do?\n\",tbm0115,\"Typically a machine will rapid to find its software stop(s), retract and slowly find its mechanical end stop. Please regard the RepRap Wiki for general troubleshooting and basic technical information.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n857,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dakota Miller,3.0576060275493275,4.676375798017904,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Adjusting the Z end stop?,\"I have adjusted my z axis end stop via the paper test. However when I press to home all the axis the z axis hits the print bed moves it down slightly then goes to the postion I describe. Is this how its supose to be if not what do I need to do?\n\",Luca van Straaten,\"Yes, this is normal. Your printer is, at first, probably going downward with some speed. When it hits the end-stop it has some momentum and doesn't stop right away. So once it hits the end-stop, it has to physically stop the print head and move upward again slightly to get to the right position.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n885,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dakota Miller,2.528907649931287,3.5615070843884675,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Prusa XI3 Extruder Calibration,\"I have done the calibration for the x, y, and z axis and everything works fine there. However when I went to do the calibration for extruder things got a little weird. The original number programmed on the board for the step per mm was 98 When I did my first measurements I used 120mm as the mark on the filament then extruded 100mm then remeasured the mark it was 37.66. Then by using the new_e_steps = old_e_steps * (100/(120-distance). I would use the new number and upload it to the printer which was 119.0187. After that I took another measurement, the new measurement was 61.27mm after marking 120mm then extruding 100mm of filament. Using the formula it came out to be 202.6540. Then the new measurement was some where around 80 some MM. It seams that the more I do the calibration the less accurate it gets. What am I doing wrong here?Triffid Hunters Calibration is the guide I have been using and this link is to the specifications to the printer HE3D Prusa XI3.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"It is really strange that although you increased the steps per mm, the amount extruded was less. I can think of two possible explanations:\n\n\nYou are extruding too quickly, at a rate at which the extruder can't keep up melting the filament fast enough, causing the filament to slip or the extruder to miss steps: try lowering the feedrate (a feedrate like 100mm/min is typical for 1.75mm filament) and make sure that the temperature is appropriate to your filament.\nYou are in absolute coordinate mode, and when you try to extrude 100mm it actually extrudes a different amount (based on the previous \"\"position\"\" of the extruder). Enter relative coordinate mode using G91.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n885,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dakota Miller,2.528907649931287,3.5615070843884675,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Prusa XI3 Extruder Calibration,\"I have done the calibration for the x, y, and z axis and everything works fine there. However when I went to do the calibration for extruder things got a little weird. The original number programmed on the board for the step per mm was 98 When I did my first measurements I used 120mm as the mark on the filament then extruded 100mm then remeasured the mark it was 37.66. Then by using the new_e_steps = old_e_steps * (100/(120-distance). I would use the new number and upload it to the printer which was 119.0187. After that I took another measurement, the new measurement was 61.27mm after marking 120mm then extruding 100mm of filament. Using the formula it came out to be 202.6540. Then the new measurement was some where around 80 some MM. It seams that the more I do the calibration the less accurate it gets. What am I doing wrong here?Triffid Hunters Calibration is the guide I have been using and this link is to the specifications to the printer HE3D Prusa XI3.\n\",Dennis,\"I understand you marked at 120mm then tried to extrude 100mm and measured 37.66mm remaining. Take the 120mm - 37.66mm (remaining)= 82.34mm (that was extruded (so you were 17.66mm short of your 100mm).\n\nThe formula I use is [New Setting=(Wanted Distance X old setting)/ Actual Distance].\n\nSo [New Setting = (100 x Old Setting)/82.34.]\n\nHope this helps\n\",0.0,0.0\n904,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dakota Miller,3.267423727073639,5.143335614527151,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Teflon tubing in nozzle throat coming out?,\"I have a HE3D prusa XI3 printer with an MK8 extruder. While printing or testing, the extruder makes a clicking noise as if the filament isnt getting hot enough to extrude. I began my investigation and read about many reasons why this could be happening. Eliminating most of them, I finally took off the fan on the extruder and looked at it while it was trying to extrude. I noticed the teflon tubing and tried to push it back into the throat. Then the extruder worked fine. I put everything back together and began testing again. The clicking came back, - I then took the fan and heatsink back off and there it was again. Pushing back down and this time extruding some material and noticing the tubing slowly coming up. Is there anyway to fix this without upgrading to a better hot end?\n\",darth pixel,\"It looks like you got too tight nozzle, too cold hotend or extruding speed is too high (all could be in the same time of course).\nAs filament goes into the teflon tube (coldend) and then into hotend it doesn't have enough time to go out throught the nozzle. So it causes that melted filament accumulates in hotend and pushes out teflon tube.\n\nCheck application and arduino settings for \n\n\nnozzle diameter (increase it), check if it's not plugged with something inside\nhotend temperature (increase it), check for your filament settings\nextrude ratio (decrease it), check also gearing on extruder motor\n\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n921,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dakota Miller,1.726248027126092,4.074268075559351,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Prusa XI3 not printing correctly with Repetier Host,\"I have a HE3D Prusa XI3 Specs are linked here. Its came with a MK8 Extruder, and I ordered the 0.3mm nozzle with it. I have Repetier v.91 loaded onto the printer right now, and Repetier-Host v1.5.4 on my computer. I have been able to print the test object that came on the SD with ok quality but when I switch to using the computer it just doesn't work at all. It starts up and heats the bed and extruder then zeros out the axis. After coming to temp which I set to 192c for the PLA plastic and bed temp of 60-65c it tries to print. Now comes my problem. It acts as if not enough plastic is being extruded. It doesn't even get the first layer down then when the second layer comes up I notice that there is plastic balling up at the end of the nozzle. So I decided that I should must with the settings in Repetier-Host to see what I could come up with. In printer settings I got everything set up besides the Max Volume Per Sec. How do I figure this number out? I also messed with the settings in slic3r to see if that helped but I didn't notice any difference. I am also using 1.75mm PLA If that might be needed.\n\",kamuro,\"In order to try a short answer even though you already found a change to Cura helped the issue. With that additional info we can conclude that your printer per se is working fine. To me, if the plastic is curling up to a ball, it seems that you are either having\n\n\na wrong temperature set\nwrongly calculated e-steps, volume calculation (filament diameter) or multiplier in the firmware\nadditional first layer parameters are off (height, offset, extrusion)\n\n\nYou can try to set the extrusion multiplier just to test if it is a simple miscalculation.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n1577,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dakota Miller,2.8153892694839717,4.516805406373626,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Uploading Repetier firmware to Arduino?,\"I have a prusa i3 and have been trying to calibrate it. I have been trying to upload the new steps per mm and I get to done uploading. However when I go into Repetier host and type M503 to get the printers settings it still shows the steps as 100 for the y axis, it needs to be 96.1810. I am using ramps 1.4 I think, with Adrunio mega 2560. If I am remembering this correctly isn't there something you have to do when uploading a new sketch like hold the rest button or something?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"See here for why you shouldn't calibrate your X/Y-steps. The value of 100 is probably better and will give more accurate prints overall than the value you came up with.\n\nWhen uploading new firmware you generally do not have to press any button. Pressing reset manually is only necessary when your upload method does not provide a reset pulse, but if you upload with USB this is not necessary.\n\nWhat is probably causing your problem is that the E-steps are stored in EEPROM, and uploading new firmware does not override the EEPROM settings.\n\nYou should run a M502 to restore the default settings from the firmware you uploaded, then M500 to save them to the EEPROM.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n1577,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dakota Miller,2.8153892694839717,4.516805406373626,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Uploading Repetier firmware to Arduino?,\"I have a prusa i3 and have been trying to calibrate it. I have been trying to upload the new steps per mm and I get to done uploading. However when I go into Repetier host and type M503 to get the printers settings it still shows the steps as 100 for the y axis, it needs to be 96.1810. I am using ramps 1.4 I think, with Adrunio mega 2560. If I am remembering this correctly isn't there something you have to do when uploading a new sketch like hold the rest button or something?\n\",ianmcmill,\"If your firmware doesn't store values you modified after flashing, for example using Repetier's option \"\"Firmware EEPROM configuration\"\", you probably didn't define EEPROM setting in Marlin. \n\nTo do this you have to uncomment the option in Marlin's Configuration.h:\n\n// EEPROM\n// The microcontroller can store settings in the EEPROM, e.g. max velocity...\n// M500 - stores parameters in EEPROM\n// M501 - reads parameters from EEPROM (if you need reset them after you changed them temporarily).\n// M502 - reverts to the default \"\"factory settings\"\". You still need to store them in EEPROM afterwards if you want to.\n//define this to enable EEPROM support\n #define EEPROM_SETTINGS\n\n#if ENABLED(EEPROM_SETTINGS)\n// To disable EEPROM Serial responses and decrease program space by ~1700 byte: comment this out:\n#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT // Please keep turned on if you can.\n#endif\n\n\nCheck that the lines #define EEPROM_SETTINGS and #define EEPROM_CHITCHAT are both uncommented (i.e. defined)\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2599,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dakota Miller,2.528907649931287,5.397831121966684,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Setting Resolution?,\"Hello I have a Prusa I3 I am currently able to get press fit parts with my current settings. I am using Ramps 1.4 hardware and repetier software and cura as my slicer. I am printing with a .2 mm layer height right now but would like to get a better number such as .1 or .09. When I try to print with say .1mm layer height in the middle of the print the filament stops coming out of the nozzle. However I can still see the gear moving. I have check some sites that I have been using for troubleshooting but I haven't found anything that fixed the problem yet. How or what setting need to be changed in order to print with better resolution?\n\",StarWind0,\"Yes, That is what happens. There is a reason that most people cannot break the .1mm barrier. \n\nYou have several things happening. First if you are using a bowden. Good luck. The bowden treats plastic a lot like a spring. Just wont be able to generate a consistent pressure.\n\nThe direct gear will have the same issue. You are trying to spit out 0.1mm on a 0.5mm nozzle. Factor in some simple drooling and your dot of plastic is missing. You wouldn't think it matters, but when we are using such tiny amounts of plastic, and consistently throughout the print, it makes for a really bad result!\n\nThen you have more issues. This is why you jam. You now have a lot of plastic sitting, not being expelled. When you go from 0.2mm to 0.1mm you now take twice the time. Considering the printer was made to print at a 0.7 to 0.2 range (more or less). We are talking about a fair time for this plastic to sit molten, waiting to come out. Some have mentioned the heat crawl, but not exactly what happens or a solution. Now you do a retraction, and you just retracted molten plastic. Which gets jammed. Or your plastic cooks, carbonizes faster and clogs your hotend. Sad times! What you can do is ... turn off retraction, and then increase your flow / extrusion multiplier to account for the extra drooling. Part will have a lot of stringing, but a quick burst from a lighter fixes most of that.\n\nYou can get better results with a hotend that has a fan and heat sink / break. I like the e3d hot ends. That will stop the heat crawl. \n\nI will note that Makergear once sent me an experimental 0.1mm nozzle. It could not build enough pressure to expel the plastic. I got one tiny bunny, half melted before it clogged from aforementioned carbonization. \n\nSounds like to me you really just need a form 1, or you are a tinkerer like me. Making the printer go twice the speed is much more fun than high quality. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2599,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dakota Miller,2.528907649931287,5.397831121966684,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Setting Resolution?,\"Hello I have a Prusa I3 I am currently able to get press fit parts with my current settings. I am using Ramps 1.4 hardware and repetier software and cura as my slicer. I am printing with a .2 mm layer height right now but would like to get a better number such as .1 or .09. When I try to print with say .1mm layer height in the middle of the print the filament stops coming out of the nozzle. However I can still see the gear moving. I have check some sites that I have been using for troubleshooting but I haven't found anything that fixed the problem yet. How or what setting need to be changed in order to print with better resolution?\n\",Demetris,\"I agree with Tom's answer, it seems that temperature slowly makes it's way up your heat sink and softens the plastic which causes the jam. \n\nEven though you should first check your hardware to make sure that hotend cooling is installed correctly, to directly address your original question as to what setting needs to be changed, I would suggest lowering your printing temperature. When printing finer layers, the plastic moves slower in the hotend, spending more time in the heater block, possibly making your current temperature setting too high for this resolution.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5170,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dakota Miller,3.452496054252184,4.690246331240944,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,3D printer stepper motors only going one direction and skipping in the other,\"I have built a couple of 3d printers now and I'm having a little trouble with one I'm currently on. I frankensteined this one with two of my other printers that I had built. I took the Arduino mega and ramps 1.4 out of the older one and wired it up to the newer one. When I plug the printer in and try to move the stepper motors they will go in the positive direction and skip and make loud noises when going the other direction. I have taken and separated out all the wires to make sure it wasn't a stray signal. I have also tried turning the voltage up and down on the drivers with no luck. I also swapped cables in case one might have been broken. The next step when I get home I'm going to try is connecting the old steppers and see if they work. After that I am pretty much at a loss. I already search Google and found a couple of things I could try, but figured maybe someone here might have an answer to why this might be happening. Steppers motors from the old printer are the same as the new one the only difference is manufactures.\n\nUpdate:\nThe printers are:\nHE3d Prusa XI3\nMax Micron Foldbot\n\nI'm just using the LCD, Ramps 1.4 and Arduino Mega 2560 R2 from the He3d and putting it on the Foldbot. With some other features but those shouldn't matter as they would work on both printers. The board from the Foldbot is the Arduino Mega 2560 built into the Ramps board MXP_PRO_V3.0. I'll try and get some pictures. Also switching steppers didn't work. Going to try to get X,Y,Z axis working separately see if i can find the problem that way.\n\nUpdate: Ok so I attached the old axis up and did a test with the endstops. Basically I think the new endstops must be the opposite of what the other printer was cause when i hold the end stop down the motor rotates in both directions and when i let go then it rotates only in a positive direction. I will see if this is part of the issue. I also believe that one of the motors is bad and that's why it wasn't making any sense when i first diagnose it.\n\",markshancock,\"From an electrical standpoint, a two-phase stepper motors (what most 3D printers use) works the same backwards and forwards, the phase just reverses. If you are stalling on only one direction, I would look to see if you have a mechanical bind in that direction. Generally a wiring issue will cause the motor to either not run at all or to run in the wrong direction.\n\nA few things you can check:\n\n\nDecouple the motors from their mechanical load and confirm that they all run correctly when they aren't driving a load. If you can't do that, disconnect them all then connect a spare motor to each cable one-at-a-time.\nTurn each of the axis with your hand and make sure it turns smoothly throughout the entire range in both directions. Note: Some times a binding issue is acceleration related - a loose frame or coupling can cause this.\nMonitor the supply voltage to make sure that one of the motors is not pulling the supply down causing all the others to stall.\n\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n5170,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dakota Miller,3.452496054252184,4.690246331240944,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,3D printer stepper motors only going one direction and skipping in the other,\"I have built a couple of 3d printers now and I'm having a little trouble with one I'm currently on. I frankensteined this one with two of my other printers that I had built. I took the Arduino mega and ramps 1.4 out of the older one and wired it up to the newer one. When I plug the printer in and try to move the stepper motors they will go in the positive direction and skip and make loud noises when going the other direction. I have taken and separated out all the wires to make sure it wasn't a stray signal. I have also tried turning the voltage up and down on the drivers with no luck. I also swapped cables in case one might have been broken. The next step when I get home I'm going to try is connecting the old steppers and see if they work. After that I am pretty much at a loss. I already search Google and found a couple of things I could try, but figured maybe someone here might have an answer to why this might be happening. Steppers motors from the old printer are the same as the new one the only difference is manufactures.\n\nUpdate:\nThe printers are:\nHE3d Prusa XI3\nMax Micron Foldbot\n\nI'm just using the LCD, Ramps 1.4 and Arduino Mega 2560 R2 from the He3d and putting it on the Foldbot. With some other features but those shouldn't matter as they would work on both printers. The board from the Foldbot is the Arduino Mega 2560 built into the Ramps board MXP_PRO_V3.0. I'll try and get some pictures. Also switching steppers didn't work. Going to try to get X,Y,Z axis working separately see if i can find the problem that way.\n\nUpdate: Ok so I attached the old axis up and did a test with the endstops. Basically I think the new endstops must be the opposite of what the other printer was cause when i hold the end stop down the motor rotates in both directions and when i let go then it rotates only in a positive direction. I will see if this is part of the issue. I also believe that one of the motors is bad and that's why it wasn't making any sense when i first diagnose it.\n\",silver,\"Sounds like you are configured for NC switches but are using NO switches, causing them to invert their reported state. Issue a M119 command and see if the endstop statuses are correct when none are triggered.\n\",0.0,0.0\n850,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user1104,2.8153892694839717,4.377917180998961,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,No extrusion when trying to resume failed print with manually edited gcode,\"I was in the process of printing a 16 hour print, but I must have failed to copy the G-code correctly, because the print stopped after 107 of 223 layers. Looking at the G-code, It also stops there. \n\nHowever, I had the full G-code on my computer, and decided to try and resume the print from layer 108. It seemed to work, with the exception of a little excess extrusion at a single point in the beginning, but after three layers, i noticed that it wasn't extruding anymore. I am not completely positive that it isn't due to nozzle jamming, but I have a strong feeling that the problem is the G-code itself, as it does extrude some plastic just before printing starts.\n\nHere are the first lines of my manually edited G-code. Can anyone see why I get the blob in the beginning, or why I don't get anything at all later on? Or does it look good, and my problem is probably the nozzle? \n\n;FLAVOR:UltiGCode\n;TIME:60308\n;MATERIAL:119047\n;MATERIAL2:0\n;NOZZLE_DIAMETER:0.400000\n;NOZZLE_DIAMETER2:0.400000\n;MTYPE:PLA\n\n;Layer count: 222\n;LAYER:109\nG0 F9000 X208.213 Y107.948 Z16.610\n;TYPE:FILL\nG1 F3600 X210.390 Y105.771 E4104.65185\nG0 F9000 X210.390 Y103.170\nG1 F3600 X168.331 Y61.111 E4107.77457\nG0 F9000 X167.074 Y61.111\nG1 F3600 X120.237 Y107.949 E4111.25208\nG0 F9000 X121.695 Y107.949\nG1 F3600 X74.857 Y61.111 E4114.72962\nG0 F9000 X73.600 Y61.111\nG1 F3600 X26.763 Y107.948 E4118.20709\n\n\",tbm0115,\"According to the RepRap.org list of G-Code commands, see G0 & G1: Move:\n\n\n The Ennn command is The amount to extrude between the starting point and ending point. \n\n\nHowever, according to this a discussion, that is now deleted from GitHub, about the Cura slicing engine:\n\nThe E values are in absolute mode, so perhaps the firmware is attempting to move the stepper motor to the absolute position (which is almost 50% through your print). This may lead to clogging or skipping depending on how hot your extruder is at that point.\n\nAs a last resort, you can perform a Boolean subtract on your model of the section that's already printed and re-slice the model to print the remaining bit. Then glue, or ABS weld, the remaining piece to the main print. I've done this in the past, it's not super glamorous, but it gets the job done if the part doesn't require a lot of structural integrity.\n\nI was incorrect with the following statements with regard to the Cura slicing engine: \n\nIt's been a while since I've looked at 3D printer G-Code, but from what I remember, E values can be the bane of any manually written G-Code. Usually the slicing engine generates the E value as an incremental step value throughout the G-Code (at least this was true for Skeinforge and early MakerWare, please verify this). So, if the value is incremental and depending on the controller, this value could be lost or corrupt if a new print is initialized.\n\nI would hope, that if you're using a slicing engine's custom G-Code input, that the software would be able to compensate situations like this and reformat your provided G-Code to match the value of E or any similar command.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n850,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user1104,2.8153892694839717,4.377917180998961,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,No extrusion when trying to resume failed print with manually edited gcode,\"I was in the process of printing a 16 hour print, but I must have failed to copy the G-code correctly, because the print stopped after 107 of 223 layers. Looking at the G-code, It also stops there. \n\nHowever, I had the full G-code on my computer, and decided to try and resume the print from layer 108. It seemed to work, with the exception of a little excess extrusion at a single point in the beginning, but after three layers, i noticed that it wasn't extruding anymore. I am not completely positive that it isn't due to nozzle jamming, but I have a strong feeling that the problem is the G-code itself, as it does extrude some plastic just before printing starts.\n\nHere are the first lines of my manually edited G-code. Can anyone see why I get the blob in the beginning, or why I don't get anything at all later on? Or does it look good, and my problem is probably the nozzle? \n\n;FLAVOR:UltiGCode\n;TIME:60308\n;MATERIAL:119047\n;MATERIAL2:0\n;NOZZLE_DIAMETER:0.400000\n;NOZZLE_DIAMETER2:0.400000\n;MTYPE:PLA\n\n;Layer count: 222\n;LAYER:109\nG0 F9000 X208.213 Y107.948 Z16.610\n;TYPE:FILL\nG1 F3600 X210.390 Y105.771 E4104.65185\nG0 F9000 X210.390 Y103.170\nG1 F3600 X168.331 Y61.111 E4107.77457\nG0 F9000 X167.074 Y61.111\nG1 F3600 X120.237 Y107.949 E4111.25208\nG0 F9000 X121.695 Y107.949\nG1 F3600 X74.857 Y61.111 E4114.72962\nG0 F9000 X73.600 Y61.111\nG1 F3600 X26.763 Y107.948 E4118.20709\n\n\",skidoo,\"I know this is an old thread but I have been running into similar issues with my delta machine with Marlin firmware. \n\nNot all printers running Marlin ignore large E (extruder) moves. G-code has always (even in CNC machines) run commands from were the motors are now, to the value in the G-code line. For example, G0 X10 will move the X motor 10 units. The units are set through G20 or G21. \n\nWhen your machine has lost power, you need to re-home all axes in order for the machine to know where it is. If you don't, it will likely think that it currently is at 0, 0, 0, 0. Then when you have the line, \n\nG1 F3600 X210.390 Y105.771 E4104.65185 \n\n\nit will try to go from 0,0,0,0 to 210.390, 105.771, 0, 4104.65185 at the feed rate of 3600. Therefore it is always good to home after power loss and add a G92 E4104.4 (last line ran before power loss) even if your machine may not need it. \n\nGood habits make for less mistakes. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n877,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,stu,2.1782824847157594,4.240709319986283,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How do I compensate in cura for thinner filament?,\"I have a monoprice printer, works great. .4mm nozzle. I bought a number of PLA solid colors and they all print reliably.\nI also bought 2 rolls of PLA translucent colors, and I have lots of trouble printing with them.\nWhat I eventually noticed was that when the translucent filaments extrude, they come out in a noticeably thinner stream.\n\nNot sure why, I've tried increasing the hot end temperature and printing slower, but nothing seems to help. The effect seems to be that not enough filament comes out from the nozzle for the speed the head is printing at.\n\nI use cura for the slicer, and I've tried changing the filament flow percentage and I've tried slowing down the print speed. Nothing seems to help, the nozzle ends up dragging the recently extruded filament around the bed until it all comes off.\n\nHas anybody else seen this, where translucent filament extrudes thinner than solid colors? Any suggestions what to try to make it stick and print reliably?\n\nThanks.\n\",Lars Pötter,\"In cura (if you are not in the quick print mode) you can dine the diameter of your filament. Setting the filament diameter to a smaller value will give you more plastic coming out of the nozzle. You can also set the flow percentage to more than 100%\n\nYou should also try to use a skirt. Some nozzles need some time until the flow is like it should be.\n\nAnother reason for this might be that the distance between bed and nozzle is too high. Try to level your bed so that the distance is less than before.\n\nIf all this doesn't work then it will at lest give you new ideas of where to look.\n\nBest luck!\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n882,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,The dude,2.1782824847157594,4.151510218313422,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,How to print LiDAR file format LAS,\"I want to print a model that I acquired in the LiDAR file format LAS.\n\nI don't have a printer but I'm planning to send a model to one of those shops who print for you.\n\nWhat do I need to do beforehand to make it print OK?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Because my research shows that LAS files are point cloud data, you would first have to convert the point cloud to a mesh. Point clouds are just that, data references to points in 3d space. A printing service works with files that represent planar surfaces, properly joined (watertight, aka manifold) to form a solid or solid surface model.\n\nThe only resource I was able to find involves using Meshlab. There are two reasonably practical references for this process.\n\nThe first is somewhat generic and provides the conceptual information:\nPoint Clouds to Mesh\n\nThe second appears to be a more step-by-step method:\n\nPoint Clouds to Mesh (2)\n\nI would expect that if you are successful in creating a mesh from your data, you would then want to use a program suitable to determine (and repair) any non-manifold portions of the model. There are many available, including Meshmixer, although the others have escaped my alleged mind at this moment.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n889,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,MaximumMark,3.0576060275493275,3.8003227302020064,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,\"Is there a method or S/W available to stitch together a DLP projector's output into a \"\"moving picture\"\" to SLA print in a larger area than its output?\",\"I'm popping my cherry here, so to speak. Refer to my Hackaday project for system details & pictures:\n\nSciclone 3D Printer Conversion\nRepurposing a lab-grade liquid handling system to a 3D printer featuring 3 axis, 20 micron bi-directional repeatability on a 14 cubic foot build platform. https://hackaday.io/project/3212-sciclone-3d-printer-conversion\n\nI have an opportunity to repurpose a high-dollar lab machine into a 3D printer with very high performance capabilities and 14 cubic feet of production volume. Although FDM is certainly a realistic \"\"no-brainer\"\" capability for this setup, I believe this level of accuracy, speed and volume - not to mention the original cost being well over $100K - justifies a finer level of output and I believe Stereolithography (SLA) is what I'd like to concentrate on. With such a large printing surface/volume (37\"\"X x 24\"\"Y x 28\"\"Z), I don't know how I would implement a DLP projector to cover such a large surface and still maintain the level of accuracy and resolution.\n\nThis system is already equipped with the highest quality stepper motors and a \"\"staccato\"\" high-speed driver-controller, an on-board pneumatic & electrical 6-channel controller that could be used for selecting colors, resin injection/flow, resin tank elevation, curing LEDs, temperature/ventilation fans, laser scanning, router speed, etc. The X & Y movement guide bars are located in the upper deck, moving the Z axis component assembly. That assembly requires simplification to enable it to be downsized to allow for the printer output to reach closer to the perimeter of the output area, but the weight & bulk of the assembly is greater than any DLP projector that would take its place so this system can reliably perform with a heavier projector if necessary. \n\nBasically, I think I'm looking for a software-defined method of coordinating the X & Y movement of the projector's output to the printing surface (presumable a tray of photo-sensitive SLA resin). Since the projector's proximity to the printing surface must remain relatively close, the output will be constrained to an area significantly smaller than this platform's entire printable surface, the projector's output will have to \"\"play a movie\"\" of the model and instead of projecting still images, I believe it would require an animated output that exposes the resin to build models. Sort of like a silk screen process but with UV light.\n\nI'm slightly familiar with the concept of manipulating laser beams using micro mirror aiming devices to draw on SLA resin beds - and this is a possible solution if I knew where to find such a component and how to control it, but that kind of printing would be far too slow for making large-scale models because it would essentially almost as slow as a pen plotter.\n\nIs anyone aware of an existing method of integrating the \"\"moving picture\"\" method I'm thinking of, or have I envisioned something that hasn't been invented yet?\n\nCheers!\n\n\n\",markshancock,\"Cool Idea.\n\nI know using a projector sounds like solution; but, I in practice, think it is going to be difficult. \n\nMy concern with trying to use a projector would be two-fold.\n\n\nIt would have to project on a large flat surface. Since basic optics wants to focus on a sphere, when projecting on a flat surface you have to adjust for a focus distance that varies with angle and also deal with keysoning. I know this is a common problem fro projectors; but, there is no perfect solution so either. The focus issue may be solvable with custom optics; but, that is not something that is easy to DIY. The keystoning could be corrected for with optics and/or in software; but even then you are going to have inconsistent resolution. Not only that; but, the problem gets worse the wider and closer you are, which is EXACLY what you want to do. \nI would be concerned that the frequency range that the SLA resin cures at will be outside the normal range of projector so you would require A LOT more power/time to get it to cure.\n\n\nOn the other hand, lasers light projectors are a well established technology. They moved into the entertainment space quite a few years ago; so, I suspect you could get one that covers the space you are interested in for a reasonable price. \n\n\nSince laser beams are very narrow, focus should not be an issue. Keysoning can be easily accounted for in the sweep algorithm.\nYou could choose the frequency of the laser to that it in the most efficient curing frequency for the resin you want to use.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n899,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CuriouSir,3.618048892289167,4.546862758757179,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.531698478710706,Why is my print displacing along the y-axis by 2-3 cm?,\"I am encountering a problem with this ID3 printer using ABS -- at some point during the print the print head displaces on the y-axis by 2-3 centimeters. I cannot pinpoint how or why it is doing this. It has displaced in the positive Y direction and in the negative Y direction on separate runs of the same piece (which is just a poker chip I found on Thingiverse). \n\nIs this a software issue (Simplify3D) or a hardware issue? Can anybody suggest a fix?\n\nSee the following photos:\n\n\n\n\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"It seems unlikely this is a software or G-code issue, instead it appears your Y-motor is occasionally missing some steps. There are two possible causes for this:\n\n\nThe current limit for the stepper driver is set too low, limiting the amount of torque the motor can generate. When the printhead encounters some resistance (for instance due to running into a blob on your model) the motor skips steps, resulting in a displaced model.\nThe current limit for the stepper driver is set too high. The stepper driver will overheat and thermal protection will shut it down temporarily. Some steps are lost while it is shut down.\n\n\nThere are various ways to calculate the ideal current for a motor and set it using a multimeter, but a simpler approach is to turn it way down, and then slowly turn it up. Turn it up just beyond the point where the axis moves reliably.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n899,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CuriouSir,3.618048892289167,4.546862758757179,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.531698478710706,Why is my print displacing along the y-axis by 2-3 cm?,\"I am encountering a problem with this ID3 printer using ABS -- at some point during the print the print head displaces on the y-axis by 2-3 centimeters. I cannot pinpoint how or why it is doing this. It has displaced in the positive Y direction and in the negative Y direction on separate runs of the same piece (which is just a poker chip I found on Thingiverse). \n\nIs this a software issue (Simplify3D) or a hardware issue? Can anybody suggest a fix?\n\nSee the following photos:\n\n\n\n\n\",darth pixel,\"I had exactly the same effect when my stepsticks where overheated.\nSo my solution was to add cooling fan and reduce current on stepsticks.\nOf course heatsink is obvious.\n\nPlease note that different axis requires different current settings.\nFor example, in Prusa and clones, X and Y need a bit less current as one stepstick controls one motor but Z axis usually uses 2 motors connected to 1 driver.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n938,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CuriouSir,3.267423727073639,6.455355642013315,2.7799718631987322,4.670422881206417,4.240216107868139,3.4319460411998994,What are the ideal print conditions for polypropylene?,\"I'm having a lot of trouble printing polypropylene right now, and I think it may have to do with the conditions. I'm using a very thin coat of ABS on the base plate (just as you would do when printing with ABS) in order to promote sticking.\n\nIn this following first picture, I attempted with a 240°C tip and a 150°C bed (above PP's Tg). Oddly enough, one side actually looked somewhat decent while the other clearly had trouble sticking. The print speed on this was 1500 mm/min.\n\nIn the second picture, I was printing with the tip at 220°C and a 50°C bed. What's interesting in that print (you may be able to see it) is that the polymer extruded with little blips of material followed by a more stringy section, rather than a steady, even filament. (Print speed on this was 2100 mm/min)\n\n\n\n\n\nDoes anyone have suggestions for doing better prints with PP? \n\",darth pixel,\"First picture clearly shows that temperature was too hight, second one suggests too small extruding speed (too little) which is connected to your printing speed.\n\n35mm/s is quite slow :)\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n938,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CuriouSir,3.267423727073639,6.455355642013315,2.7799718631987322,4.670422881206417,4.240216107868139,3.4319460411998994,What are the ideal print conditions for polypropylene?,\"I'm having a lot of trouble printing polypropylene right now, and I think it may have to do with the conditions. I'm using a very thin coat of ABS on the base plate (just as you would do when printing with ABS) in order to promote sticking.\n\nIn this following first picture, I attempted with a 240°C tip and a 150°C bed (above PP's Tg). Oddly enough, one side actually looked somewhat decent while the other clearly had trouble sticking. The print speed on this was 1500 mm/min.\n\nIn the second picture, I was printing with the tip at 220°C and a 50°C bed. What's interesting in that print (you may be able to see it) is that the polymer extruded with little blips of material followed by a more stringy section, rather than a steady, even filament. (Print speed on this was 2100 mm/min)\n\n\n\n\n\nDoes anyone have suggestions for doing better prints with PP? \n\",Clyrogrumper,\"Yes. These settings work for Ultimaker as well. Set the printer to print PLA, and put brown tape on the bed under the print. Set the layer to 0.1 mm, set the initial layer to 0.1 mm. \n\nDon't over heat the PP or when it cools it will shrink tons making it want to peel off. PLUS if you don't let the PP go below its Tg (80°C) by making the bed too hot it will stay molten and eventually stick to the nozzle making a truly pants print, and probably detach itself.\n\nI have been making tiny detailed little components with PP this evening, just about to put 21 on to make and then off to bed!\n\nUpdate:\n\nSorry, PLA settings on the UM is 210°C for Hotend. I am making round PCB spacers, so these are best with a 100% infill and a concentric fill pattern. Also, I recalibrated the platform with a very thin post-it note which is about 50% of the thickness of the UM calibration card. It makes sense to just get the PP soft enough to extrude, in fact I am seeing turbulence at the beginning when the extruder runs some material through the molten material has a curly cable appearance. Like this the material beds itself right into the tape. Lovely.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n913,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Adam,3.267423727073639,5.158085708828165,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Are Makerbot Smart Extruder nozzles swappable?,\"I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with Makerbot smart extruders and knows whether or not the nozzle size can be changed. I'm trying to figure out if I can use different nozzle diameters (0.25mm, 0.5mm, 0.8mm, etc.). \n\nMakerbot doesn't sell any replacement nozzles on their site, so I suppose I'm just trying to figure out if the nozzles on the makerbot use the same diameter/thread pitch as other nozzles, like the ones from E3D or if I'd have to mill my own, which is way more trouble than it's worth. \n\nAny research on the subject is pretty sparse, and the best resource I found is a blog post from 2011 when they still allowed their customers to do such things themselves. I've searched around their Google Group but got nowhere. Beside that, there isn't really any information from the last three years or so on the Makerbot machines.\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"Yes, you can change the nozzles with the 5th gen line printers, although it's not recommended or supported by Makerbot. You're on your own if something goes wrong with an aftermarket nozzle. Here's a swap video from Fargo3D: https://youtu.be/vL80bslk9vw\n\nI would recommend \"\"mk8\"\" Makerbot Replicator 1/2/2x style nozzles, since these will be similar dimensions to the original nozzle. Ebay has lots of cheap ones, or P3-d and Micro Swiss are popular options for premium Makerbot mk8 style nozzles. But you should be able to use any standard M6 male thread, ~2mm ID nozzle (such as from E3D, because the Smart Extruder Z homing routine will compensate for nozzle length. \n\nWhen you change the nozzle, you're also going to need to change the slicer settings. Do not use default settings with a different nozzle. Smaller nozzles will require significantly lower print speeds, and larger nozzles will require wider extrusion width. You can create a custom profile in Makerbot Desktop to do this, or use a 5th-gen-compatible slicer like Simplify3D. \n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n917,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mattis,2.8153892694839717,4.081341811753209,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Which algorithm does Marlin use to create arcs?,\"I'm writing a paper about a plotter (I use a Prusa i3 with a custom \"\"extruder\"\" aka pen). And I'm supposed to write about the algorithms I/the plotter use(s). I tried reverse engineering, but since I'm not very experienced with this technique I wasn't successful. \nSo I'm looking for the algorithm that Marlin uses for its G2/G3 commands.\n\",Mattis,\"The algorithm is based on the \"\"Vector rotation by transformation matrix\"\", and this solution is based on a solution from Jens Geisler. The formula for clockwise rotation is:\n\n \n\nMore information about the vector rotation can be found on Wikipedia.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n929,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dexter,1.726248027126092,3.0484567768387603,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"Brass rails, bunting bearings ok for x,y axes?\",\"new to 3D printers and to this community :)\n\nWould a 1/4\"\" brass rod with bronze bunting bearings for sliders and SAE 30 oil suffice for X and Y axes with moving extruder instead of print surface?\n\nI'm gathering cheap/scavenged materials for a first time build, as a learning experience, and it doesn't need to work very long. \n\nI just have no idea yet how heavy the extruders are, generally. I'm thinking of threading the rod so I can pull it tight for straightness under load.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Extruders tend to be quite light. An E3Dv6 complete with fan, shroud and wires is under 100g. Unless you use a Bowden extruder, you also have to add ~300g for a stepper motor. In any case, it will be quite light.\n\nSintered bronze bushings can definitely be used in a 3D printer; they're used in the (quite popular) Ultimaker 3D printers. I can't tell whether your particular bushings will work well, but I think the most important consideration is that there isn't too much play between the rod and bushing (but I'm assuming you took care of that). 3D printers don't place high loads onto the motion system.\n\n\"\"Proper\"\" LMxUU bearings aren't very expensive either (reasonable ones can be had for less than $2) so if the bushings don't work out, you could always try those.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n931,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Andres,3.0576060275493275,6.003250155814996,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,4.091740895605862,4.208576161768494,Carbon fiber instead of smooth steel rods?,\"I have a long 8 mm smooth steel rod of about 55 cm long. This rods bend easily due to the length. If I replace them with 8mm solid carbon fiber rods, will the bending reduce? Will the bearings wear off the carbon fiber rod? I couldn't find too much information about this.\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"Steel is the best material for a linear rod when you have a fixed cross-section. It will have the least flex of any rod (aside from some exotic metals) of the same size. \n\nCarbon fiber's material properties might seem superior at first sight, but the stiffness is very anisotropic -- it's very stiff along the grain and not very stiff across the grain. So multi-axis stresses like bending aren't necessarily going to perform up to the theoretical specs. Carbon fiber has exceptional stiffness-to-weight ratio, but the stiffness-per-area isn't necessarily superior in this application. \n\nPeople do occasionally use carbon fiber for linear rods/rails, but only in much larger sizes than 8 mm. Think >25 mm. \n\nAnd that's really the problem here. 8 mm diameter at 550 mm long is well outside what's reasonable for bending stiffness. Bending deflection increases with the CUBE of length, and this is simply far too long for the size of rod. The general rule of thumb for precision motion applications is length < 25*diameter. That's a conservative rule, but it's the right ballpark. You really shouldn't be going over 200-250 mm or so with an 8 mm rod. \n\",3.5068404193471867,2.0769199823829045\n931,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Andres,3.0576060275493275,6.003250155814996,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,4.091740895605862,4.208576161768494,Carbon fiber instead of smooth steel rods?,\"I have a long 8 mm smooth steel rod of about 55 cm long. This rods bend easily due to the length. If I replace them with 8mm solid carbon fiber rods, will the bending reduce? Will the bearings wear off the carbon fiber rod? I couldn't find too much information about this.\n\",Zebra,\"I agree that steel is the best material for rails but the info provided on carbon fiber is just wrong.\n\nWhen making a carbon fiber part, whether a tube or any other shape, you lay the fabric in the orientation you need for the direction of the forces. If multi-directional strength and stiffness is needed then the fibers are laid in multiple directions. Nobody who knows what they are doing lays all the cf in one direction...\n\nIn general, carbon fiber is stronger than steel by both the strength to weight ratio and by volume. I say \"\"in general\"\" because parts need to be designed in the right way. A poorly designed carbon fiber part or a low quality steel can easily be weak. \n\nThere is a great video on YouTube showing a strength and stiffness comparison of a carbon fiber drive shaft vs the same part made in steel. The steel drive shaft bent and snapped with 3 times less force while the cf drive shaft had no visible bending until it snapped.\n\nThe main reason why steel is a better linear rail material is surface hardness. Linear rails have bearings traveling up and down continuously. The rails need to be hardened to prevent them wearing out too quickly. The surface hardness (how easy it is to scratch or penetrate) of cf is far lower than steel. There is no comparison.\n\nCf is great material for the frame but not the rails. For stiffer rails, I suggest buying some square THK rails. 15mm the rails will be plenty stiff enough for most 3d printers.\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n941,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cube,2.528907649931287,4.499836490379483,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.488653845767225,Tetrahedral honeycomb?,\"I have an idea for a 3D printed project, but I'm a total noob in this area and need someone to reality check it for me.\n\nBasically what I want to do is a tricopter frame made of a tetrahedral honeycomb.\n\nThe whole model would be within 30 * 30 * 10 cm, the honeycomb edges would be approximately 1mm thick and about 15mm long and it would be printed out of nylon with SLS.\n\nI have found Shapeways' design guidelines and my idea seems to fit it, but still it feels slightly more extreme use than what they had in mind.\n\nIs this doable? Does anyone else use a similar method? Is there some software that I can use to generate honeycombs like this, or do I have to write it myself?\n\nEdit:\n\nThis is how two layers of the honeycomb look like:\n\n\nIn the actual model there would be several layer of this on top of each other and the shape would be kind of carved out of the honeycomb (+ some finishing to avoid spiky surface)\n\",tbm0115,\"In short, I don't think printing the full tetrahedral honeycomb design is a good approach considering the application of the part. Here are few things to note when attempting to 3D print the tetrahedral honeycomb:\n\nI wouldn't recommend trying to 3D print this with a an FDM/FFF printer as you will most likely need supports and there would not be enough strength laterally. You may be able to print the design using SLA, but handling would be very difficult before post-processing as the part is very brittle post-print until a heat treat or curing process is done to chemically solidify. The post-process of the SLA could determine how strong the part is (ie. stainless steel powder, infused with bronze in a heat treat process would be good for such a part).\n\nWhile SLS may be the best method for 3D printing this type of design, for that size part (30x30x10cm) you're looking at an expensive print regardless of whether or not you print it yourself.\n\nInstead, I would highly recommend finding (or designing your own) a joint connector that would allow you to join wood/plastic dowels in the tetrahedral honeycomb shape. Not only will this be cheaper for you in the long run (easier to replace a few broken segments than an entire 3D printed model), but it could provide more structural strength for something that could potentially get banged around, like a tricopter.\n\nFor example, this model on Thingiverse (not my model) shows an example of how you can utilize 3D printing complex or custom joints that allow you to connect dowels in the shape you're looking for. It'd kind of be like building with K'Nex.\n\nAs far as designing said joint, you could model a single \"\"inner\"\" joint that has 18 connectors (8 on XY plane, 6 on YZ plane, and 4 on XZ plane). Below is a crude example of what I mean drawn in Google SketchUp:\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n941,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cube,2.528907649931287,4.499836490379483,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.488653845767225,Tetrahedral honeycomb?,\"I have an idea for a 3D printed project, but I'm a total noob in this area and need someone to reality check it for me.\n\nBasically what I want to do is a tricopter frame made of a tetrahedral honeycomb.\n\nThe whole model would be within 30 * 30 * 10 cm, the honeycomb edges would be approximately 1mm thick and about 15mm long and it would be printed out of nylon with SLS.\n\nI have found Shapeways' design guidelines and my idea seems to fit it, but still it feels slightly more extreme use than what they had in mind.\n\nIs this doable? Does anyone else use a similar method? Is there some software that I can use to generate honeycombs like this, or do I have to write it myself?\n\nEdit:\n\nThis is how two layers of the honeycomb look like:\n\n\nIn the actual model there would be several layer of this on top of each other and the shape would be kind of carved out of the honeycomb (+ some finishing to avoid spiky surface)\n\",fred_dot_u,\"For designing your part, especially considering the repetitive mathematics involved, I would consider to learn to use OpenSCAD. I've learned the program and it fits your modeling requirement quite well. I feel it's easy to learn and is somewhat easier for folks who have a programming background. I don't have one, but it's still a logical progression to learn this program.\n\nRegarding the SLS aspect, that also jumped out at me as a suitable answer. Solid shapes require to have \"\"drain holes\"\" to reduce the amount of powder consumed by the process.\n\nI am assembling a Sintratec SLS printer and your model is the sort of thing I would enjoy to create with the printer. I've not yet listed my Sintratec printer on 3dhubs to solicit business, simply because it's not yet a fully assembled printer!\n\nI did a quick Google search for \"\"openscad tetrahedral honeycomb\"\" and found this link:\n\nhttp://forum.openscad.org/Beginner-Honeycomb-advice-needed-td4556.html\n\nThe result is more a polygonal honeycomb, not a true 3d tetrahedron, but it's a start. The file that created it is fewer than a few dozen lines of code.\n\nThe post is old enough that the internal links no longer work but the OP posted his module code and that does work:\n\n\n\nI'm not sure how personal contact works in stackexchange, but I'd be willing to work with you regarding creating your code and if the printer ever gets assembled, printing out your part.\n\n\n\nAdding a picture again, to show the latest revision, based on the updated information:\n\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n948,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tdrsam,2.1782824847157594,4.662218320061524,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Is there a way to convert a file to .dwg?,\"I can download a file from Tinkercad as any of these:\n\n.STL\n.OBJ\n.X3D\n.VRML\n\n\nIs there a way to convert any of those file types to .DWG?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"I found this site and tested it a moment ago. I uploaded a simple .STL file (crystal) and had to register as a user (free, unremarkable) in order to perform the conversion.\n\nhttp://www.cadforum.cz/catalog_en/stl2dwg.asp\n\nThe downloaded file was in .DWG format and opened without a problem in AutoCAD 2013 as a 3d object.\n\nNote the placement of the pivot point in Meshmixer (first image) and the corresponding location in AutoCAD.\n\n\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n948,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tdrsam,2.1782824847157594,4.662218320061524,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Is there a way to convert a file to .dwg?,\"I can download a file from Tinkercad as any of these:\n\n.STL\n.OBJ\n.X3D\n.VRML\n\n\nIs there a way to convert any of those file types to .DWG?\n\",BrunoCL88,\"There are solutions with instant delivery/conversion, and others that take some hours to send you the file. \nI found solutions varying from free online conversion to pricey service.\nYou may need to do some touch up on the files converted from automated platform before you send it to a CNC or other CAD/CAM machine.\nYou can check on these platforms:\nhttp://cadmesh.com\nhttps://www.convertcadfiles.com/\n\nHave in mind that, the higher is the model complexity (shape) the harder is to convert the model.\nIf trying to convert a 3D scanned model, make sure to have a closed mesh and a high-density mesh definition.\nGood luck!\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n951,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Amir,2.1782824847157594,3.6495948032562278,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Strength of 3D printed Objects,\"I am new to 3D printing and need to know if I use steel in printing, do I get the same strength (compression and shear) as steel profiles manufactured in a factory?\n\",Cris Thompson,\"In terms of FFD plastics:\n\nUsing metal infused filaments for FFD printing; definitely not. The properties mixed into the filament will have some affect on the final piece, stronger, heavier, etc for BronzeFill, but still the majority of the print material will be plastic.\n\nHowever, you can use PLA plastics (and new Moldlay wax like filament) for lost wax casting so all of the plastic is replaced with the molten metal.\nIn this case, yes, all the plastic or filament is replaced with the final casting metal and it's at strong as any other cast item.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n951,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Amir,2.1782824847157594,3.6495948032562278,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Strength of 3D printed Objects,\"I am new to 3D printing and need to know if I use steel in printing, do I get the same strength (compression and shear) as steel profiles manufactured in a factory?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"A laser sintered part typically uses what could be described as surface bonding, as it does not melt particularly deeply into the powder. It would not have the same strength characteristics as machined steel or otherwise processed metal. A part constructed from 3d printing using feed metal/welding methods would have more strength, but would not necessarily have un-modified steel strength, due to the heat applied during the process.\n\nUsing a metal which responds to post processing, as in tempering, will likely improve the strength, but I believe that one is unlikely to reach the same values as \"\"ordinary\"\" steel. Compression along the lines of the construction layers would be reasonably strong, but forces applied in other directions are likely to match only the characteristics of the bond. The same consideration applies to shear strength.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n953,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mr-matt,2.1782824847157594,4.096995355543717,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,Can a sandstone 3D print be printed as a solid object?,\"I've been asked to prepare a 3D model for 3D printing in sandstone. I've been told that it needs to be 3\"\" tall and the walls have to be at least 2 mm thick. It's an absolute pain in the neck having to make sure everything is the right thickness. So, I was wondering, can the whole model just be printed as a solid object, with 100% infill, and does that work for sandstone?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Yes, you can just print it solid. However, it might be significantly more expensive to print your object entirely solid. For instance, Shapeways charges \\$0.75 per cm³ of material for their full-color sandstone. A solid cube of 5x5x5 cm would cost \\$96 to print, whereas it would only cost around \\$6 if you printed it hollow with 2mm walls.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n953,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mr-matt,2.1782824847157594,4.096995355543717,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,Can a sandstone 3D print be printed as a solid object?,\"I've been asked to prepare a 3D model for 3D printing in sandstone. I've been told that it needs to be 3\"\" tall and the walls have to be at least 2 mm thick. It's an absolute pain in the neck having to make sure everything is the right thickness. So, I was wondering, can the whole model just be printed as a solid object, with 100% infill, and does that work for sandstone?\n\",PostEpoch,\"To add to the selected answer, again, yes you can, however making all of the walls AT LEAST 2mm thick shouldn't be too hard, depending on your model and modelling app.\n\nIf your modelling app doesn't have a good shell function (or if it's too finicky on your model) you could easily define SOME negative space within the larger volumes of your model in order to save costs without having to actually make perfectly consistent wall thicknesses. Just make sure you leave a hole through which the excess material can escape from the interior void.\n\nShapeways has a good set of guidelines for their full color sandstone prints, which work about the same as any: http://www.shapeways.com/materials/full-color-sandstone\nHowever, you'll want to double check exact measurements with your printing service.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n955,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,KH Kim,1.0891412423578797,2.877598637377739,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How can I scan a thing and modify it or scan two things and compare them?,\"I've been asking people about this, not no clue yet.\n\nI want to scan a thing and modify it a little.\n\nFor example I have an object with 3 parts and\n\nI want to change the position of the third part relative to the other 2 parts.\n\nFor example I have a certain object and I want to modify it a little to see\n\nhow the air flow around them would change.\n\nOr I want to scan two similar things and see what's the difference between them\n\nPRECISELY... is there any way to do this?\n\",tbm0115,\"While I'm not sure what you mean by I want to scan a thing and modify it a little to see its effect. In general, a 3D scan typically results in a series of raw points. You'll need to convert the 3D point cloud into a Mesh before you can really do any solid modeling with it. Here are a few OpenSource programs that you could potentially use:\n\n\nMeshLab\nBlender\nCloudCompare\n\n\nTo compare two scans, you could use the raw data in CloudCompare as well.\n\nHowever, without knowing what your intended use is, it's difficult to tell how to help you. Please consider updating your response with a bit more of your own research so that we may definitively answer your question.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n964,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,PostEpoch,3.452496054252184,3.985163827898809,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How does Carbon3D's CLIP technology handle bridges and support material?,\"All of Carbon3D's marketing and demonstrations show their CLIP technology producing contiguous and bridge-free parts. Has anyone seen examples of their M1 printing something like a buckyball within a buckyball or a figurine or some other shape that requires support material to print?\n\nFor example, how would the Carbon3D print a shape like this:\n\n vvvvvBUILDPLATEvvvvv\n ====================\n XXX\n XXX BBB <----- columns A and B require support material\n XXX AAA BBB in order to connect them to the build\n XXX AAA BBB plate.\n XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX\n\n\n|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|\n|~~~~~~~~RESIN~~~~~~~|\n|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|\n\n\nIn a similar vein, how do they handles enclosed volumes? I doubt anyone wants a sphere filled with still-liquid resin...\n\nAgain, I've looked around, I can find no material addressing these questions, so if anyone can shed some light, I'd be glad.\n\",Jexoteric,\"On Carbon3D's homepage they show a part that appears to have supports in it. \n\n\n\nPer a conversation with Carbon3D's support they confirm that their slicing software will generate supports based on the overhang angle geometry, and in the case of a buckyball within a buckyball, there would be supports generated to create the buckyball, and to support the interior buckyball joining the two together that would have to be removed in post processing.\n\nEnclosed volumes need to have a drain hole, and you would have to avoid vacuum forming shapes such as an upside down cup in which atmospheric pressure would keep the interior of the cup filled with resin until the reservoir runs out or the vacuum is able to be broken releasing the excess resin. In the case of a cup you would change the orientation. I am not sure how one would handle trying to print a solid sphere with no holes to avoid this condition.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n966,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SvdSinner,3.9045305118418514,4.963145337616672,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,4.091740895605862,3.322464497796202,Determining the temps and speeds for DIY printers?,\"I've been going down the learning road with two broken printers that I'm rebuilding with better parts and electronics.\n\nOne thing that I've recognized is that there is a pretty low likelihood that any hotend or heatbed that has had the thermistor/thermocouple and/or the printer board swapped with a non-OEM part can be trusted to accurately report it's own temperature.\n\nSure, there are lots of things I can (and do) do to try to make it as accurate as reasonable like calibrating with thermistors from multimeters, IR thermometers, etc., but each method has limitations. You never know if the 2nd thermistor is mounted both correctly, or if it is reading the same local temp as the printer thermistor. IR thermometers have issues with reflective surfaces (like aluminum hot ends and build plates) Calibrating the thermistor constants from experimental data isn't perfect.\n\nIMHO, any hotend/heatbed temp on a DIY setup might be off by a constant ± 5 °C or so, more if it is poorly calibrated.\n\nPrinters use PID controlled heaters to keep oscillations down to a degree or two Celsius, because people say it impacts print quality.\n\nIs there a good visual or experimental way to know whether your temperatures are \"\"correct\"\" for your printer/filament? IOW, if my filament was supposed to be heated to 220 °C, how would I know if my printer was having issues because the \"\"true\"\" temperature is only 215 °C (or 225 °C) when it is reporting 220 °C?\n\nOne common problem I've experienced is the nozzle clogging after the transistion from layer 1 to layer 2. (Layer 1 = higher heat and slower speeds, Layers 2+ = lower heat and faster speeds.) It's been a struggle to know which factor (lower heat or faster speeds) are to blame for the clogs after the transition.\n\",darth pixel,\"It looks like you have to calibrate your thermometer first. The easiest way is to use well known thermistor (preferably in well working printer) and then measure temperatures with your thermometer. This way will give you proper calibration of it. Then you can measure other thermistors with this thermometer.\n\nOf course it requires to keep conditions constant as far as possible. \n\nBut to be honest... I don't really feel (or see) if there is a big difference with temperature ± 10 °C.\n\nLet's say my filament has temperatures from 185 °C to 225 °C and I tell you there is no difference (at least I don't see it) if it's 190 °C or 210 °C.\n\nOf course this difference is crucial when you reach min/max temperature but in the middle... \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n966,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SvdSinner,3.9045305118418514,4.963145337616672,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,4.091740895605862,3.322464497796202,Determining the temps and speeds for DIY printers?,\"I've been going down the learning road with two broken printers that I'm rebuilding with better parts and electronics.\n\nOne thing that I've recognized is that there is a pretty low likelihood that any hotend or heatbed that has had the thermistor/thermocouple and/or the printer board swapped with a non-OEM part can be trusted to accurately report it's own temperature.\n\nSure, there are lots of things I can (and do) do to try to make it as accurate as reasonable like calibrating with thermistors from multimeters, IR thermometers, etc., but each method has limitations. You never know if the 2nd thermistor is mounted both correctly, or if it is reading the same local temp as the printer thermistor. IR thermometers have issues with reflective surfaces (like aluminum hot ends and build plates) Calibrating the thermistor constants from experimental data isn't perfect.\n\nIMHO, any hotend/heatbed temp on a DIY setup might be off by a constant ± 5 °C or so, more if it is poorly calibrated.\n\nPrinters use PID controlled heaters to keep oscillations down to a degree or two Celsius, because people say it impacts print quality.\n\nIs there a good visual or experimental way to know whether your temperatures are \"\"correct\"\" for your printer/filament? IOW, if my filament was supposed to be heated to 220 °C, how would I know if my printer was having issues because the \"\"true\"\" temperature is only 215 °C (or 225 °C) when it is reporting 220 °C?\n\nOne common problem I've experienced is the nozzle clogging after the transistion from layer 1 to layer 2. (Layer 1 = higher heat and slower speeds, Layers 2+ = lower heat and faster speeds.) It's been a struggle to know which factor (lower heat or faster speeds) are to blame for the clogs after the transition.\n\",Stutz Jr,\"As per the detailed answer given by Ryan Carlyle, it can be a trial and error process to determine the optimal settings for your printer. This certainly does not require absolute accuracy of the temperature sensors1 or the use of ideal filament to achieve. In your slicing program it should be possible to increment or alter the parameters - like 'flow rate' or 'printing temperature' during a print of a simple shape - in such a way that is is possible to make subjective comparisons.\n\nSome enthusiast videos detail a method of using a slicer program to print a simple hollow column and to increment a particular parameter from say 90 % to 110 % of the \"\"ideal\"\" values in fixed steps every 5 mm in the Z direction. One can then observe the output and make a subjective determination of the print quality along the length of the column, and adopt the parameter value associated with the position in Z that produced the \"\"best\"\" outcome in terms of finish, strength and layer adhesion.\n\nA standard plugin for the free slicer program \"\"Ultimaker Cura\"\" called \"\"TweakAtZ\"\" allows one to generate such a script, and could be a good option even if you normally would use a different slicer. A user on the youtube site (with which I have no association) detailed this approach in a video titled How to Find the Perfect Print Settings For Your 3D Printer. They went on to recommend this process be undertaken each time a new roll of filament is loaded in the printer.\n\nI consider the method to be a good suggestion, as I find the suggestion \"\"Pick a test print you like (such as Benchy) and repeat it with different tuning until you find your preferred limits.\"\" to be a potentially very wasteful and nonproductive proposition to an inexperienced user.\n\n\n\nFootnote\n\n1 Directly calibrating the accuracy of the indicator for the temperature sensor inside the extruder would be no small feat, and as has been mentioned above would likely be of little value. If absolutely necessary it would probably best be done with a small gauge wire twisted Type \"\"T\"\" thermocouple wire tip inserted directly into the extruder nozzle if possible. Using an IR thermometer not would be appropriate due to the size of the target vs the IR thermometer's field of view and the emissivity of the nozzle as you have already observed.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3748,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SvdSinner,0.0,4.202001197343663,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Initial auto-leveling configuration,\"I'm near the end of a full electronics swap of a dead 3d printer. I'm using an MKS Gen 1.4 board with Repetier firmware. This is my first try at attempting to set up auto-leveling from scratch.\n\nI've got the inductive probe mounted, positioned and calibrated so that running a G30 (single probe) works perfectly and returns valid results.\n\nHowever, when I try a G28 (home), then G29 to do a full auto-leveling sequence, just prior to each probing, the Y axis lurches forward (roughly)70 mm, and stays cumulatively out of position by the amount it lurched forward. Since 70mm x 3 is bigger than the depth of my bed (200x200) the Y-axis bangs and grinds against it's physical limit. Additionally, that puts the Z-probe beyond the edge of the bed, which causes the firmware to go into error mode, because the actual z-low limit switch is hit without ever tripping the Z-probe. Which, annoying sends the Z-Axis moving up, until it ultimately crashes into its physical limit and grinds until I kill the power.\n\n\nWhy is my config causing this lurching behavior? How do I fix it?\nCan the error behavior be configured/changed to NOT attempt infinite movement in the Z+ direction? (It might not matter once #1 is fixed, but I don't like the idea of my printer going into a mode where the Z-stepper could burn itself out if the power isn't flipped.)\n\n\nHere is the Z-probe section of my config.h:\n\n(Note: I have tried changing Z_PROBE_Y_OFFSET to -75, to see if I was entering the offset incorrectly. It didn't seem to change the behavior noticeably.)\n\n// #################### Z-Probing #####################\n\n#define Z_PROBE_Z_OFFSET 0.2\n#define Z_PROBE_Z_OFFSET_MODE 0\n#define UI_BED_COATING 1\n#define FEATURE_Z_PROBE 1\n#define Z_PROBE_BED_DISTANCE 8.0 // Higher than max bed level distance error in mm\n#define Z_PROBE_PIN ORIG_Y_MAX_PIN\n#define Z_PROBE_PULLUP 0\n#define Z_PROBE_ON_HIGH 1\n#define Z_PROBE_X_OFFSET 10\n#define Z_PROBE_Y_OFFSET 75\n#define Z_PROBE_WAIT_BEFORE_TEST 0\n#define Z_PROBE_SPEED 5\n#define Z_PROBE_XY_SPEED 150\n#define Z_PROBE_SWITCHING_DISTANCE 1.5\n#define Z_PROBE_REPETITIONS 5 // Repetitions for probing at one point.\n#define Z_PROBE_HEIGHT 22.68\n#define Z_PROBE_START_SCRIPT \"\"m117 Autoleveling...\"\"\n#define Z_PROBE_FINISHED_SCRIPT \"\"m117 Autoleveling Complete\"\"\n#define Z_PROBE_REQUIRES_HEATING 0\n#define Z_PROBE_MIN_TEMPERATURE 150\n#define FEATURE_AUTOLEVEL 1\n#define Z_PROBE_X1 20\n#define Z_PROBE_Y1 00\n#define Z_PROBE_X2 160\n#define Z_PROBE_Y2 00\n#define Z_PROBE_X3 100\n#define Z_PROBE_Y3 120\n#define BED_LEVELING_METHOD 1\n#define BED_CORRECTION_METHOD 0\n#define BED_LEVELING_GRID_SIZE 5\n#define BED_LEVELING_REPETITIONS 5\n#define BED_MOTOR_1_X 0\n#define BED_MOTOR_1_Y 0\n#define BED_MOTOR_2_X 200\n#define BED_MOTOR_2_Y 0\n#define BED_MOTOR_3_X 100\n#define BED_MOTOR_3_Y 200\n#define BENDING_CORRECTION_A 0\n#define BENDING_CORRECTION_B 0\n#define BENDING_CORRECTION_C 0\n#define FEATURE_AXISCOMP 0\n#define AXISCOMP_TANXY 0\n#define AXISCOMP_TANYZ 0\n\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"Well, I´m using marlin for my printers and normally the offset is negative, this difference is from the 0.0 Z value sensor and nozzle. \n\nFor example, I have an aluminum plate, so this material is less inductive and I'm getting a height of nozzle 1.2 mm; normally this value should be above 5mm, but my printers reads 1.2mm\n\nSo my offset is 1.2mm (this values is dangerous for me) because I can bend the plate if sensor stop working.\n\nthe safety z height on G28 is 4mm and also for auto probing G29, the speed testing for Z is lower than travel X and Y. \n\n #ifdef AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID\n\n // set the rectangle in which to probe\n #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 8\n #define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 156\n #define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 156\n #define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 8\n\n // set the number of grid points per dimension\n // I wouldn't see a reason to go above 3 (=9 probing points on the bed)\n #define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID_POINTS 2\n\n\n #else // not AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID\n // with no grid, just probe 3 arbitrary points. A simple cross-product\n // is used to esimate the plane of the print bed\n\n #define ABL_PROBE_PT_1_X 15\n #define ABL_PROBE_PT_1_Y 156\n #define ABL_PROBE_PT_2_X 15\n #define ABL_PROBE_PT_2_Y 20\n #define ABL_PROBE_PT_3_X 156\n #define ABL_PROBE_PT_3_Y 20\n\n #endif // AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID\n\n\n // these are the offsets to the probe relative to the extruder tip (Hotend - Probe)\n // X and Y offsets must be integers\n #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 //25\n #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 //29\n #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -1.2 //-12.35\n\n #define Z_RAISE_BEFORE_HOMING 4 // (in mm) Raise Z before homing (G28) for Probe Clearance.\n // Be sure you have this distance over your Z_MAX_POS in case\n\n #define XY_TRAVEL_SPEED 7000 // X and Y axis travel speed between probes, in mm/min\n\n #define Z_RAISE_BEFORE_PROBING 4 //How much the extruder will be raised before traveling to the first probing point.\n #define Z_RAISE_BETWEEN_PROBINGS 4 //How much the extruder will be raised when traveling from between next probing points\n\n\nI hope this help to understand your settings. \n\nI have set the values to Zero instead 25 and 29 because I pre defined the testing points manually to 8 and 156; of course the center of the nozzle is moved 25 and 29 mm from the plate center, this avoids collision to X0 and Y0. And I just the level using 4 points once, if your bed is warped so is needed more internal points\n\n #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 //25\n #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 //29\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8373,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SvdSinner,2.8153892694839717,3.605205619671559,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,2.3995491493854546,Installing bowden tube into E3D V6,\"I'm struggling with an upgrade I made to my Creality CR-10. I upgraded the extruder to an E3D V6 hotend. The extruder mount and cooling fans are installed and working, however, I'm doing something wrong with installing the bowden tube into the hotend. Inevitably after I print a few layers, the extruder jambs and the issue is always the same: the bowden tube has backed itself out a few tenths of a millimeter, and the filament has mushroomed into the vacant space and hardened so that the filament cannot go forward or backwards.\n\nI've tried several things to fix the issue including:\n\n\nTrying various pneumatic fittings from various suppliers\nRecutting the end of the bowden tube to attempt to make it more flush\nReplacing the bowden tube \nThree different E3D heat-breaks from different supplier\nVarious ways of inserting the bowden tube including: pushing it after the fitting was screwed in, pushing it into a fitting that was back out a couple turns and then screwing the fitting in\n\n\nThe only thing that has (partially) worked was when I would ductape and hot-glue the bowden tube into the fitting so it couldn't back out. However, since I'm still tweaking things, I inevitably have to disassemble things and I'm back to square one.\n\nI'm trying to figure out what mistake I am making to keep causing this issue. As an example, originally I used the pneumatic fittings wrong and thought I was supposed to pull the plastic part out to release the tube, rather than simply pushing it in to release the tube. (Needless to say, I wrecked a lot of fittings that way.)\n\nWhat else might I be doing wrong to keep causing this issue? What are other culprits to this issue happening repeatedly? Are there firmware settings that may help (or be aggravating the issue)?\n\",Mick,\"You may need to secure the pneumatic coupling in the closed position with a small plastic clip (which should be supplied with the hot end).\n\n\n\nYou can print your own, providing that your printer will work for long enough (a paper clip might do the trick):\n\nThingiverse: Bowden Tube Clip v3\n\nAddendum:\n\nSome pneumatic couplers are sprung, so that you have to depress the coupling ring in order to release the tubing. In this case, no clip is usually required. Other pneumatic couplers (such as the one on an E3D V6) are unsprung. This makes it easier to secure and release the tube using the supplied clip. The disadvantage is that you may lose the clip. Sprung couplers sometimes lose their springiness, in which case a clip can be used to secure them in the closed position\n\nIt's \"\"swings and roundabouts\"\", really. You can to choose between the awkwardness of sprung couplers, or the risk of losing a clip. Either way, print some spare clips. You may need them one day.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n8373,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SvdSinner,2.8153892694839717,3.605205619671559,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,2.3995491493854546,Installing bowden tube into E3D V6,\"I'm struggling with an upgrade I made to my Creality CR-10. I upgraded the extruder to an E3D V6 hotend. The extruder mount and cooling fans are installed and working, however, I'm doing something wrong with installing the bowden tube into the hotend. Inevitably after I print a few layers, the extruder jambs and the issue is always the same: the bowden tube has backed itself out a few tenths of a millimeter, and the filament has mushroomed into the vacant space and hardened so that the filament cannot go forward or backwards.\n\nI've tried several things to fix the issue including:\n\n\nTrying various pneumatic fittings from various suppliers\nRecutting the end of the bowden tube to attempt to make it more flush\nReplacing the bowden tube \nThree different E3D heat-breaks from different supplier\nVarious ways of inserting the bowden tube including: pushing it after the fitting was screwed in, pushing it into a fitting that was back out a couple turns and then screwing the fitting in\n\n\nThe only thing that has (partially) worked was when I would ductape and hot-glue the bowden tube into the fitting so it couldn't back out. However, since I'm still tweaking things, I inevitably have to disassemble things and I'm back to square one.\n\nI'm trying to figure out what mistake I am making to keep causing this issue. As an example, originally I used the pneumatic fittings wrong and thought I was supposed to pull the plastic part out to release the tube, rather than simply pushing it in to release the tube. (Needless to say, I wrecked a lot of fittings that way.)\n\nWhat else might I be doing wrong to keep causing this issue? What are other culprits to this issue happening repeatedly? Are there firmware settings that may help (or be aggravating the issue)?\n\",silver,\"This sounds more like a problem with heat creep. When you installed the new hotend, did you reuse the old cooling solution? You might need more heatblock insulation and / or cooling power.\n\",-1.6066831703607938,0.0\n970,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bashar Abdullah,1.726248027126092,4.61548495493479,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.880918201452841,Which belt tension gauge do I need?,\"I have a 3D printer that is going crazy with x-axis shift, and I need a tension gauge belt to measure the tension.\n\nI've never used one before, and looking online, I can't tell which one would be the right fit.\n\nAny ideas? What things should I look for?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"It's extremely unlikely that belt tension is actually your problem. I've never heard of anyone using a gauge to measure their belt tension. Typically you just pull your belt tight by hand so that it produces a low note when plucked. It's far more likely that you're experiencing shifts due to too high or too low stepper current.\n\nUnless your belt is so loose that it easily skips over the pulley (which should be obvious without using a gauge) or so tight that it completely binds up (it would be impossible to get it that tight without some kind of superhuman force) it's definitely not the problem.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n970,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bashar Abdullah,1.726248027126092,4.61548495493479,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.880918201452841,Which belt tension gauge do I need?,\"I have a 3D printer that is going crazy with x-axis shift, and I need a tension gauge belt to measure the tension.\n\nI've never used one before, and looking online, I can't tell which one would be the right fit.\n\nAny ideas? What things should I look for?\n\",darth pixel,\"People are using this to tighten the belt but I would totally agree with @Tom - there is no need to use such devices or gauges and your problem lies in stepsticks current.\n\nIt would be also problem with endstops so PCB doesn;t know it's time to stop :)\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n974,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dingo_kinznerhook,1.726248027126092,3.7276265966694213,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,-1.1827783713261073,-1.3276579603156529,Looking for information on modifying Boots Industries 3D printers,\"About two years ago I purchased a Boots Industries v.2.5 3D printer in a delta configuration. The wiki is still up at this location where you can see what the printer looked like. \n\nThe printer is prone to break and slip because the design uses thin wire to move the carriages up and down. I'd like to convert my printer over to using a belt like the one on this page, but the conversion kit is no longer available. I believe I can 3D print the carriages, but would anyone be able to point me toward the resources to convert my printer over to using a toothed belt? \n\",Eric N,\"Contact Brian or Lykle. We all have Boots Industries printers and have heavily modified it to belt drive and magnetic effectors. The print quality has improved drastically. The old Boots support group has since moved on to Slack and we are in constant contact everyday.\n\nhttps://biv25.slack.com/messages/@slackbot/\n\nhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1843195\n\",-1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n984,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dingo_kinznerhook,3.267423727073639,3.8943561620740414,2.7799718631987322,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,3D printer calibration test STLs?,\"Is there any well-known test set of 3D models that I can print out which will clearly show up the problems I need to work out in calibrating my 3D printer? Ideally, it would be either one or multiple models which shows the point at which overhanging starts to fail, points at which stringing occurs, the accuracy of one layer over another, and maybe edges which are supposed to be a particular length.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Yes.\n\nThere are more test models one can download than would be possible to list here. A search on Thingiverse results in pages and pages of useful models. A common model for testing is called the 3d Benchy, although it is not particularly parametric. Overhangs, retraction, layer alignment and other aspects of your printer are tested with this model.\n\nAnother option is to purchase a set of test models from 3dkitbash.com:\n\nQuickPrintTests\n\nThe models lists as such:\n\n#3dk01 - Voids\n#3dk02 - Spikes\n#3dk03 - Flex\n#3dk04 - Edge\n#3dk05 - Text\n#3dk06 - Bridge\n#3dk07 - Dissolve\n#3dk08 - Ball Joint\n#3dk09 - Hinge\n#3dk10 - Columns\n\n\nwhich are more specifically defined for testing your printer. I would expect that Thingiverse and other model-sharing sites would have similar designs available to meet your specific requirements.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n979,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,m04merlin,2.1782824847157594,3.789629108199975,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Micro 3D filament food safe,\"Before you put duplicate from this Which are the food-safe materials and how do I recognize them? please read \n\nI need to know if this 3D Ink™ (PLA Filament) is food safe\n\",tbm0115,\"In general, PLA is known as a \"\"food safe\"\" filament, especially Natural PLA. However, filament suppliers have different processes that may detriment the food safe quality.\n\nDoing a little digging, I found an article on the M3D site which mentions the following about their filament\n\n\n All of our products, including our filaments are made from 100% non-toxic components and considered generally safe under normal use. They are not considered a chemical, or a hazardous material by OSHA standards. Therefore, OSHA defines it as an \"\"article\"\" and does not require MSDS sheets. You can see more information about that here: http://www.ilpi.com/msds/faq/partb.html#article\n\n\nSo, without contacting M3D directly to acquire an MSDS (or asking if its food safe), you will not find one online.\n\nHere is an article on a few tips for printing food safe objects as well. In a nut shell, don't 3D print food handling objects with crevasses, using uranium, or intend to put in the oven (a.k.a common sense).\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n979,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,m04merlin,2.1782824847157594,3.789629108199975,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Micro 3D filament food safe,\"Before you put duplicate from this Which are the food-safe materials and how do I recognize them? please read \n\nI need to know if this 3D Ink™ (PLA Filament) is food safe\n\",EvilTeach,\"In general no filament is safe as the printing process leaves \"\"nooks and cranies\"\" between the layers where germs can gain a foothold.\n\nFor food safe, I would advise:\n\n\nprint with white filament\nuse an acetone vapor bath to smooth and melt many of the \"\"nooks and cranies\"\" away.\nUse a spray polyurathane and coat with 3-4 layers to reduce the evil \"\"nooks and cranies\"\" even more.\n\n\nAt that point it it should be dishwasher safe and food safe.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n982,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,PJay,2.1782824847157594,4.640028608154374,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,How to create a very accurate STL file as well as the slices for a 3D printer?,\"I have been using Solidworks and AutoCAD to create STL file of a 3D model I want to print. I slice the STL file using Freesteel Z level slicer (http://www.freesteel.co.uk/wpblog/slicer/) and save the slices in a bmp format. \n\nMy 3d print has an array of circular channels, all of one radius. I expected the bmp slice to contain the circular shapes looking exactly identical to each other. However, I don't obtain the exact same replicas. Looks like the pixel-wise mapping has not been done uniformly. (View http://s24.postimg.org/p7w09zvkl/snippet.png for the image). \n\nI want each and every circle to be represented by exactly the same set of pixels in the bmp image, so that all of the circular contours are identical. (I do not prefer changing the pixel resolution.)\n\nHow can I overcome this problem? Are there any better tools which would lead to a perfectly uniform pixel-wise mapping? \n\nThanks! \n\nPJ \n\",tbm0115,\"You seem to have a pretty good understanding of how STL, so in case it helps anyone else, there is a file format (currently) in design called 3MF which should help with more accurate 3D Printing. While its focus is to ensure solidarity in a model (or manifold), the XML-based format should leave itself open to allow the machine/slicing software to be the only limiting factor in design geometry.\n\nSince STL relies on triangulation to define its shapes, it is common to see the discrepancy, especially on a circular feature.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n982,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,PJay,2.1782824847157594,4.640028608154374,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,How to create a very accurate STL file as well as the slices for a 3D printer?,\"I have been using Solidworks and AutoCAD to create STL file of a 3D model I want to print. I slice the STL file using Freesteel Z level slicer (http://www.freesteel.co.uk/wpblog/slicer/) and save the slices in a bmp format. \n\nMy 3d print has an array of circular channels, all of one radius. I expected the bmp slice to contain the circular shapes looking exactly identical to each other. However, I don't obtain the exact same replicas. Looks like the pixel-wise mapping has not been done uniformly. (View http://s24.postimg.org/p7w09zvkl/snippet.png for the image). \n\nI want each and every circle to be represented by exactly the same set of pixels in the bmp image, so that all of the circular contours are identical. (I do not prefer changing the pixel resolution.)\n\nHow can I overcome this problem? Are there any better tools which would lead to a perfectly uniform pixel-wise mapping? \n\nThanks! \n\nPJ \n\",fred_dot_u,\"Your objective has a serious constraint regarding the pixel resolution. Within that limitation, the software (slicer) you are using will generate \"\"best guess\"\" images, particularly dependent on floating point math. There may be a single combination of circular shapes (radius) and spacing for these shapes that provides your objective, but that's likely not a practical exercise.\n\nYou have not indicated if you've tried other slicers, which would be the primary direction. A list of choices can be found here:\n\nFree Slicing Program List\n\nAnother option that you can consider, not included in this list, is to use OpenSCAD, import the STL file, then use the projection() command to manually slice and export the image file. I use the term \"\"manually\"\" but the program can be coded to perform this task automatically, and there is a command line feature to OpenSCAD that may be useful.\n\nNote also that the output of these slicers and/or OpenSCAD may exceed the resolution you desire. Manipulation of the image with a graphics editor could result in the same floating point disarray as you perform the changes.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n983,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,LazyFatTree,2.528907649931287,4.076043375864622,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Functional object in low poly - program and tutorial,\"I'm losing my mind, it all started out with the idea of a project where I want an abstract shape (I'm going to call it a stretched cube with an angle), now I know a bit of Vectorworks - a 3D/Architecture drawing program. I found nothing in all the tutorials how to make something low poly but still be able to for example screw the bottom of with a thread for example.\n\nI found numerous shapes I like on Thingiverse but they are all STL files which I've learned so far are hard to edit and make them functionally usable when cross transferring them for one to another program. \n\nToday I gave it another try to find other programs which can give me the result and functionality I want. Thus far I've only found program where you make the shape perfectly and then by using a mesh program like 123make and Meshmixer to then change the outcome of the rendering. But in my case this makes some parts unable to use anymore as example the threading? \n\nSo for the question I their a program which I can make a low poly shape (example below) where I still can add holes and threading like you can do with AutoCAD, Vectorworks. \n\nI hope somebody knows how to do this I've been searching and asking around for weeks!!\n\nThis is an example of the type of shape I would like to create, Low poly vase - mine would be exactly the same but it would be to give you an idea\n\nExample of the thread I would like to implement in the shape above, Tap and Die for 3D printed threads \n\",ChristopherB,\"I've had my share of struggles with the issues you're having - bridging the software gap between hard-edge, parametric modeling tools (typically CAD) and more free-form, 'soft'/organic, modeling tools. It's not a trivial task to work across both domains simultaneously.\n\nThe simplest workflow I've developed is:\n\n\nCreate a simple CAD model of parts of the object you're trying to make that have mechanical/precision features (e.g. threaded screw holes, joints) in a CAD program (e.g. AutoCAD, Inventor, Solidworks, Fusion 360).\nExport a high-precision STL of those parts\nCreate/generate the 'soft'/organic portions of the model in your software suite of choice (e.g. Blender, Maya)\nExport an OBJ file (or STL, if the option is available) of the 'soft' parts\nImport both sets of parts into Meshmixer and combine them there.\nExport to a single, combined STL\n(Optional) Pass the 'end product' STL through a model \"\"fixer\"\" - I quite like the Microsoft Model Repair Service\n\n\nMeshmixer is a powerful but poorly documented tool. In my experience, it's capable of accomplishing most of the basic \"\"fixes\"\" most models need in preparation for 3d-printing. It is possible to do some amount of sculpting/organic modeling within Meshmixer itself but you'll probably find it inferior in that regard to other software suites, if you know how to use them.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n983,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,LazyFatTree,2.528907649931287,4.076043375864622,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Functional object in low poly - program and tutorial,\"I'm losing my mind, it all started out with the idea of a project where I want an abstract shape (I'm going to call it a stretched cube with an angle), now I know a bit of Vectorworks - a 3D/Architecture drawing program. I found nothing in all the tutorials how to make something low poly but still be able to for example screw the bottom of with a thread for example.\n\nI found numerous shapes I like on Thingiverse but they are all STL files which I've learned so far are hard to edit and make them functionally usable when cross transferring them for one to another program. \n\nToday I gave it another try to find other programs which can give me the result and functionality I want. Thus far I've only found program where you make the shape perfectly and then by using a mesh program like 123make and Meshmixer to then change the outcome of the rendering. But in my case this makes some parts unable to use anymore as example the threading? \n\nSo for the question I their a program which I can make a low poly shape (example below) where I still can add holes and threading like you can do with AutoCAD, Vectorworks. \n\nI hope somebody knows how to do this I've been searching and asking around for weeks!!\n\nThis is an example of the type of shape I would like to create, Low poly vase - mine would be exactly the same but it would be to give you an idea\n\nExample of the thread I would like to implement in the shape above, Tap and Die for 3D printed threads \n\",EvilTeach,\"If you have some programming background, take a look at OpenScad. It allows you to model using a functional programming language. Basically all of the customizer models on Thingiverse are written in openscad. My gut says you can use the poly command to string together a bunch of polygons to do what you want.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n992,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jason Harding,1.726248027126092,3.619173000051646,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Solidoodle 4 voltage requirements,\"I have a solidoodle 4 and have blown the power supply . Long and the short of it is I am trying to modify a Xbox 1 power supply to fulfill the need. I am measuring he voltage at the output and its 14.04 volt.\n\nQuestion is this, is the operational voltage range on a solidoodle able to operate on 14 volt ? \n\",kamuro,\"I have not used or seen a solidoodle 4, but as found on the internet, the controller board used in the printer is a version of the Sanguinololu, and the reprap wiki says that\n\n\n The board is designed to be flexible in its power source, working with\n a 12V/5V ATX power supply or any 7V-35V power source via the on-board\n voltage regulator.\n\n\nif you're using a board not older than V0.7 http://reprap.org/wiki/Sanguinololu\n\nHowever, I have also found images that show the Solidoodle with this board:\nhttp://www.reprap.org/wiki/SAV_MKI\nwhich can be used with 11-15V. This however might be for older versions of the printer.\n\nThere are some things to keep in mind: if there is no voltage regulator on the board, make sure that all parts can take the voltage without overheating at some points. \n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n1006,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mefaso,2.8153892694839717,3.4245901840942934,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,\"What does a \"\"3 h5\"\" mean in reference to the axle of a motor?\",\"Sorry if this isn't the right place to ask, but it seemed like the most relevant stackexchange.\n\nI want to print a connection from a motor to an omniwheel, the axle of the wheel is listed as 8mm, but the one of the motor only say \"\"3h5\"\" which isn't really helpful for me, and neither was Google.\n\nSide-question: Would pla be sturdy enough or do I need to use abs?\n\",tbm0115,\"I think it's a reference to a tolerance. Look at this ISO table. This States that the nominal diameter of 3mm is held to a tolerance of +-0.004mm.\n\n@DarthPixel provided some great links identifying the term interference fit (or press fit as I've heard locally) as described here. Also, here is a better link providing examples of how the tolerance works and more legible tables to reference the correct tolerance. Keep in mind that the units in the tables is in nanometers.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n1026,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user2813274,1.726248027126092,3.919327943005188,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.749318730431847,2.104288080884247,Is there any way to shrink 3 mm filaments down to 2.85 mm?,\"Some 3 mm filaments seem to actually be 3 mm - is there any way to shave off the excess and use it as 2.85 mm? \n\",Tormod Haugene,\"I would not recommend you to try and somehow re-size the filament, since even the smallest of irregularities and error in diameter occurring from such a process would ruin your prints with sporadic over and under extrusion. Rather, if you have the tools available, you could grind the filament into pellets, and use a filament extruder to make it anew with your desired diameter. \n\nAlternatively, depending on your printer setup, you might very well extrude true 3.00 filament with your 2.85 mm filament printer. If you try to do that, make sure to:\n\n\nAdjust filament diameter in your slicer\nCheck that your filament isn't getting squashed by the extruder wheel\nCheck that all mechanical parts actually can pass through your filament freely\n\n\nI do not own a 2.85 mm printer myself, and therefore have not tried this procedure. There are, however, several people who seem to have done this successfully.\n\",3.2133663407215876,0.0\n1026,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user2813274,1.726248027126092,3.919327943005188,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.749318730431847,2.104288080884247,Is there any way to shrink 3 mm filaments down to 2.85 mm?,\"Some 3 mm filaments seem to actually be 3 mm - is there any way to shave off the excess and use it as 2.85 mm? \n\",albseb,\"You will need to melt it push it through a hopper, screw thread, \nthen draw it out at a constant pressure, with a water bath plus a sensor to check diameter. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1035,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Praxiteles,2.8153892694839717,3.510789227224567,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Trend in Filament Costs?,\"Some have suggested that filament costs are asymptotically approaching a baseline cost - others that costs are linearly decreasing. Does anyone know where to find the trending costs on a single class of filament over the past decade or more?\n\nPart of the reason we are asking is to get enough longitudinal data to begin projecting costs for printing objects in the future. You might think of it like the \"\"Moore's Law\"\" of filament costs.\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"You could have a look though the various price trackers for Amazon (like ccc and thetractor), for some basic trends. Most of them does not seem to have sufficient data to give any valuable insight, but that could change.\n\nIn general, I would refer to the yearly and monthly trend reports found on 3D Hubs. They usually include the average filament order costs per filament type from the previous 30 days, although they do not display it as a continuous graph at this time.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1035,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Praxiteles,2.8153892694839717,3.510789227224567,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Trend in Filament Costs?,\"Some have suggested that filament costs are asymptotically approaching a baseline cost - others that costs are linearly decreasing. Does anyone know where to find the trending costs on a single class of filament over the past decade or more?\n\nPart of the reason we are asking is to get enough longitudinal data to begin projecting costs for printing objects in the future. You might think of it like the \"\"Moore's Law\"\" of filament costs.\n\",Alex Sky,\"I'm not clear as to the intent of your question, but I would like to provide some insight. Typically, the biggest differentiating factor between a mediocre data scientist, and a good one, is based on the hypothesis they put forth. Therefore, understanding where the cost of filament is derived from is much more important than analyzing the market price equilibrium over a period of time (Even if done with consideration to various filament types).\n\nHere are some basic costs:\n\n\nRaw material (the cost based on region, and grade)\nManufacturing scale (Mixers, extruders, cooling, spooling, packaging, etc.)\nShipping (Often 50% of cost for small quantities)\nSupply chain (Number of middle men)\n\n\nWithout going into detail of every preceding point, I was able to break down costs to a theoretical $10/kg for ABS, if starting with virgin pellets, and shipping flat rate USPS within the US. \n\nThe point that I am trying to make is, fundamentals over technical analysis in this case.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1040,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,daviegravee,2.1782824847157594,3.9625206897189615,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Would appreciate advice on unclogging hot end [Makerbot Replicator v2],\"My Makerbot Replicactor V2 constantly jams. Usually when I go to use it after it's been off for a few hours the filament has jammed and I have to take off the front fan to remove the filament. Today, after going through the usual rigmarole of having to take the front fan and fan guard off, remove the filament, cut it and then load it back in I found that there was another problem.\n\nIt appears something is jammed inside the hot end itself. When I loaded the filament back into the machine, it took it but nothing came out of the nozzle, instead it all pooled up around the aluminium mounting block where the filament feeds through.\n\n\n\nHere's a couple more pictures, the last one is basically what happens to me on a regular basis: http://imgur.com/a/2jvnP\n\nHow should I go about fixing this? I've already cleaned the extruder nozzle, but unsure as how best to proceed with this. I would prefer to get this fixed fairly soon as I need to 3d print files for a uni assessment piece.\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"For molten filament to jam at the inlet to the thermal barrier tube like shown here, there must be something wrong with the cooling in your setup. The cold zone needs to be cool for the extruder to work right. It looks like the cold zone is not staying below the glass point of the plastic, so the filament softens and mashes into a jam. \n\nHere are some common causes of jamming in Replicator 2 extruders:\n\n\nPrinter's environment is too hot. If it's in a hot garage, move it indoors. If you have it inside an enclosure or cabinet, open it up to let it breathe. All-metal extruders with PLA are very sensitive to ambient temp. \nNot having good contact between the heatsink and the cooling bar. Normally, just bolting them together is fine, but a small amount of of thermal grease (like Arctic Silver) smeared over the contact surface can help too.\nNot having the fan pointed the right way. You want the fan to blow ONTO the heatsink: this provides more turbulent flow and better cooling. This means you should not see the fan sticker when everything is assembled.\nFan dying and and spinning too slow. A new fan can be a good idea. (24v fans only!) Or you can try gently peeling off the fan sticker and adding a single drop of light oil (like 3-in-one) to the bearing, then re-attaching the sticker.\nUsing non-stock thermal barrier tubes that do not have the correct internal geometry. Lots of people sell bad tubes that don't have the \"\"secret sauce\"\" (internal diameter step). The four good vendors I'm aware of for this part are Makerbot, Carl Raffle, Micro Swiss, and Performance 3D. \n\"\"Floating\"\" the thermal barrier threads by tightening jam nuts on both top and bottom of the cooling bar. All-metal extruder designs require good contact pressure between the thermal barrier tube threads and the cooling bar, to ensure maximum heat transfer. The best approach is to put one jam nut below the bar to forcibly push the thermal barrier tube threads into the cooling bar, and no nut on top. (Using just one nut on top is better than two nuts, but worse than one nut below.)\n\n\nIt's also possible that there is some material partially blocking the nozzle, which is contributing to molten plastic backup up and jamming. \n\nWhat I would recommend right now is removing both the nozzle and thermal barrier tube from the printer, and either replacing them or fully cleaning them out. There are multiple options. You can preheat the hot end with the cooling bar in a vise or on a metal surface with no fans attached, to heat up the plastic in the thermal barrier tube and allow you to push the blockage through with a small allen key. Then do something to REALLY clean it out, like nylon cold-pulls, or cooking the parts in a blue flame such as a torch or gas stove. Then check for internal debris with something like a toothpick. \n\nOnce you can see through the nozzle orifice and there's no junk inside anything, reassemble everything properly and try again. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1047,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Alex Sky,2.1782824847157594,5.227413951358344,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Prusa i3 Dual Extruder Setup Issues,\"I have a Folgertech Prusa i3, on a Ramps 1.4 with Marlin and I use Repetier-Host to control it. I am attempting to convert it to a dual extruder Bowden setup, and I can't seem to get the second extruder to work, although the first works just fine.\n\nThis is my problem:\n\nI am not getting a reading in Repetier-Host for the thermistor of the second extruder. It is at a constant 100C.\nWhen I turn on the cartridge heater for the second extruder in Repetier-Host, the cartridge heater does not heat up. \n\nThis is what I have done:\n\nFor the second extruder, I connected the wires from the thermistor to the pins for T2 and the wires for the cartridge heater to D9.\nI have not updated anything in the Marlin firmware.\nIn Repetier-Host, I selected that there are two extruders, and a second extruder is indicated under the 'manual controls' tab.\n\nThis is what I have double checked:\n\nI confirmed the second thermistor works because it indicates a proper temperature reading when plugging it in both T0 and T1.\nI confirmed the second cartridge heater works because it heats up when connected to D10.\n\nI apologize in advance if this is an amateur question, but I can't seem to find an answer anywhere. If somebody could at least point me in the right direction, or let me know if there is something I did not include in my post, I would really appreciate it, and hopefully it would help somebody else coming across a similar problem.\n\nThanks \n\",Alex Sky,\"Thanks to the comments, I was able to narrow down the specific issues in the firmware. The firmware version was really out of date, so I recommend finding the latest stable version.\n\nTherefore, I found the latest stable version of Marlin, downloaded it, and created my own edited version. I went line by line in configuration.h and configuration_adv.h, with the old version I had side by side to the newer version, making any and all appropriate changes. Below are the lines I found most important to evaluate when setting up a second extruder.\n\nMake sure the you have the right board selected from boards.h:\n\n#define MOTHERBOARD 34\n\n\nMake sure the # of extruders is specified:\n\n#define EXTRUDERS 2\n\n\nMake sure the sensor is active:\n\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 6\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 6\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 6\n\n\nThis should be considered:\n\n#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 240\n#define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 240\n#define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 240\n#define BED_MAXTEMP 90\n\n\nEverything under this comment should be looked at:\n\n// Preheat Constants\n\n\nThese would allocate the second extruder for other motors:\n\n#define Z_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS\n#define Y_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS\n#define DUAL_X_CARRIAGE\n\n\nI'm sure there are other parameters I may have missed, and these are specific to my Prusa i3, but I hope this helps out anybody else in the future. \n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n1125,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Alex Sky,3.452496054252184,4.998588770972767,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Auto Bed-Leveling with Inductive Proximity Sensors and Magnets,\"I recently decided to upgrade to auto bed-leveling using an inductive proximity sensor and an aluminum build plate on my Prusa i3. I also wanted to try to secure the build plate using neodymium magnets at 4 points, with the magnets being secured with bolts to the Y-carriage, and steel washers glued to the bottom of the aluminum build plate (since aluminum is not magnetic).\n\nI would like to know if anybody has attempted this, and what the results were, as well as any issues incurred. My primary concern is a possible interference between the small magnetic field that is created by the magnet, and the sensor when probing the plate. I fear this question may sound a little open-ended, but I would just like to know if this could work. Please feel free to ask any follow up questions to details I may have missed. Thank you.\n\nP.S. I would also like to note, in case there is any relevance, I do not plan on using a heated build plate, since I have a heated build chamber.\n\",kamuro,\"You might use the magnets themselves or additional ones on top for the leveling process, as partly discussed in this thread:\nhttp://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,479795\n\nA mechanical or piezo switch might also solve the issue for you with a lot less guesswork and trouble.\n\",0.0,0.0\n1125,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Alex Sky,3.452496054252184,4.998588770972767,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Auto Bed-Leveling with Inductive Proximity Sensors and Magnets,\"I recently decided to upgrade to auto bed-leveling using an inductive proximity sensor and an aluminum build plate on my Prusa i3. I also wanted to try to secure the build plate using neodymium magnets at 4 points, with the magnets being secured with bolts to the Y-carriage, and steel washers glued to the bottom of the aluminum build plate (since aluminum is not magnetic).\n\nI would like to know if anybody has attempted this, and what the results were, as well as any issues incurred. My primary concern is a possible interference between the small magnetic field that is created by the magnet, and the sensor when probing the plate. I fear this question may sound a little open-ended, but I would just like to know if this could work. Please feel free to ask any follow up questions to details I may have missed. Thank you.\n\nP.S. I would also like to note, in case there is any relevance, I do not plan on using a heated build plate, since I have a heated build chamber.\n\",John Doe,\"Good question. The magnets from the build plate will almost certainly interfere with your inductive sensor, the movement from the carriage will induce a current in the inductor as it approaches the magnet and may cause it to trigger. If you're looking for a mag build, I'd suggest looking at: http://www.3dprintermods.com/prestashop/index.php?id_product=9&controller=product\n\nI'm just about to get into auto-leveling myself, with this particular build there are a few ways to get around the issue. If you plot your auto level to occur as far from the magnets as possible (x,y location wise), then you might be ok. Otherwise you might consider investigating optical and touch probes.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2619,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Alex Sky,3.267423727073639,5.169302303754983,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Z Axis getting stuck with Marlin 1.1.0-RC7,\"Background:\n\nI just successfully installed a RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Display on my Prusa i3; and in doing so, I've upgraded all of the firmware to the latest version of Marlin, 1.1.0-RC7. With my previous version of Marlin, 1.0.2-1, everything was working perfectly. I've transferred every parameter over from my older version to my newer one. There were some aspects of code that were written differently, but essentially everything works except the Z-Axis.\n\nProblem:\n\nThe one issue that I seem to be having is with any kind of movement with the Z-Axis. When it moves, whether from the LCD or Repetier, it appears to accelerate as it is supposed to, but then gets stuck/skips a bunch of steps, and then decelerates slowly as it's supposed to. Regardless of the distance I instruct it to move, it will accelerate normally for the same amount of time/distance/steps, go into this unholy mode for a period of time/distance/steps relative to what it was instructed, and then smoothly decelerates for the exact same amount of time every time. For example, if it is supposed to move 10000 steps, it will move 100 steps smoothly, then skip for 9800 steps, and finish with another 100 steps smoothly. If, for example, it needs to move 5000 steps, it will also move 100 steps smoothly, then skip for 4800 steps, and finish smoothly the last 100 steps. Keep in mind, these numbers are completely drawn from space; they are not accurate by any stretch of the imagination. I'm just trying to paint as clear of a picture as possible.\n\nTroubleshooting:\n\nAt first I checked to make sure everything is mechanically sound.\n\n\nThe nuts move freely up and down the 5mm threaded rod. There are no points along the entire length of the rod that the nuts don't move very freely.\nThe stainless steel rods are well aligned and the entire Z/X-Axis carriage moves very freely along the vertical rails. The bearings appear to be fine.\n\n\nI then wanted to narrow it down to being the firmware, and not electrical. For the record, maybe I'm missing something obvious, so please let me know.\n\n\nI measured the voltage on my A4988 stepper drivers on the RAMPS 1.4 board, sitting on the Arduino Mega2560 R3, and it is reading 350mV. Even if I adjust the potentiometer to 550mV, I still get the same issue.\nThe jumpers underneath seem to be snugly in place, and all the pins on the A4988 appear to be fine as well.\nThe one thing I haven't checked in the section, logically analyzing, is the wires going from the board to the motors themselves, but based on the following, I don't believe that is the issue. (Although I have been wrong before)\n\n\nMoving onto the firmware. \n\nI've played around with the default settings section in Configuration.h with no avail. Regardless of how low, or high, I go with any of the max acceleration settings, I cannot seem to fix the problem. It accelerates slower, but the overall effect is the same.\n\n#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,3840,90}\n#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 5, 25}\n#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {2000,2000,10,2000} \n#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 1000\n#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 1000\n#define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION 1000\n#define DEFAULT_XYJERK 20.0\n#define DEFAULT_ZJERK 0.4\n#define DEFAULT_EJERK 5.0\n\n\nTheory:\n\nAt this point, if I had to guess, it has something to do with the maximum speed setting, or the microstepping. These are some of the settings that I have on the new firmware.\n\n#if ENABLED(ULTIPANEL)\n#define MANUAL_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 60} // Feedrates for manual moves along X, Y, Z, E from panel\n#define ULTIPANEL_FEEDMULTIPLY // Comment to disable setting feedrate multiplier via encoder\n#endif\n\n// minimum time in microseconds that a movement needs to take if the buffer is emptied.\n#define DEFAULT_MINSEGMENTTIME 20000\n\n// If defined the movements slow down when the look ahead buffer is only half full\n#define SLOWDOWN\n\n// Frequency limit\n// See nophead's blog for more info\n// Not working O\n//#define XY_FREQUENCY_LIMIT 15\n\n// Minimum planner junction speed. Sets the default minimum speed the planner plans for at the end\n// of the buffer and all stops. This should not be much greater than zero and should only be changed\n// if unwanted behavior is observed on a user's machine when running at very slow speeds.\n#define MINIMUM_PLANNER_SPEED 0.05// (mm/sec)\n\n// Microstep setting (Only functional when stepper driver microstep pins are connected to MCU.\n#define MICROSTEP_MODES {16,16,16,16,16} // [1,2,4,8,16]\n\n// Motor Current setting (Only functional when motor driver current ref pins are connected to a digital trimpot on supported boards)\n#define DIGIPOT_MOTOR_CURRENT {135,135,135,135,135} // Values 0-255 (RAMBO 135 = ~0.75A, 185 = ~1A)\n\n// Motor Current controlled via PWM (Overridable on supported boards with PWM-driven motor driver current)\n//#define PWM_MOTOR_CURRENT {1300, 1300, 1250} // Values in milliamps\n\n// uncomment to enable an I2C based DIGIPOT like on the Azteeg X3 Pro\n//#define DIGIPOT_I2C\n// Number of channels available for I2C digipot, For Azteeg X3 Pro we have 8\n#define DIGIPOT_I2C_NUM_CHANNELS 8\n// actual motor currents in Amps, need as many here as DIGIPOT_I2C_NUM_CHANNELS\n#define DIGIPOT_I2C_MOTOR_CURRENTS {1.0, 1.0, 1.0, 1.0, 1.0, 1.0, 1.0, 1.0}\n\n\nSolution:\n\nIf anybody could help me, or even point me in the right direction, I would really appreciate it. I'm getting desperate with this new firmware version. It has all these conditional tabs that didn't exist in my other one, and I can't quite figure it out.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The problem is likely in the MAX_FEEDRATE. Initially the moves are smooth, indicating that acceleration is not a problem. However, you have your maximum speed set to 5mm/s, which, for m5 threaded rod (with 0.5mm pitch), translates to 10 revolusions/second for the threaded rod. That is quite fast, and the stepper probably can't keep up. Try reducing the feedrate.\n\nThe firmware microstepping and current settings have absolutely nothing to do with it, since these are not supported on your setup (which has physical potentiometers and microstepping jumpers).\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n1051,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Rafael Muynarsk,2.528907649931287,4.374486708232721,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Is there any opensource software that controls the RAMPS RepRap board directly from the computer?,\"I'd like to find an opensource software that communicates directly with the RAMPS board (or any other 3D printer driver) without using the arduino...\n\nIt doesn't matter if it runs on Windows or linux as long as it's opensource. Also, I'm not worried about how this communication is done (USB, serial port, parallel port)...\n\nHas anyone ever heard about projects like this?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"No, there exists no software like that. You can't communicate with a RAMPs board because a RAMPs board has no logic built-in; it's just a dumb breakout board that connects the Arduino Mega to your printer's components (such as stepper drivers, MOSFETs for controlling heaters, endstops,...).\n\nIf you wanted to connect a RAMPs board \"\"directly\"\" to your computer, you'd need a way for your computer to generate the pulses that the Arduino normally generates. You could potentially use a parallel port for this but you'd need many more outputs than a single parallel port can provide and you'd need to find a way to do the analog to digital conversion needed for the thermistors.\n\nIt's just not very feasible (considering how few computers have parallel ports nowadays).\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n1051,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Rafael Muynarsk,2.528907649931287,4.374486708232721,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Is there any opensource software that controls the RAMPS RepRap board directly from the computer?,\"I'd like to find an opensource software that communicates directly with the RAMPS board (or any other 3D printer driver) without using the arduino...\n\nIt doesn't matter if it runs on Windows or linux as long as it's opensource. Also, I'm not worried about how this communication is done (USB, serial port, parallel port)...\n\nHas anyone ever heard about projects like this?\n\",Chris Stratton,\"The key question is not really if there is such software, but rather if such software is possible, or if it would work very well. \n\nWhile a printer is more than just stepper motors, those are one of the trickiest parts, so it makes sense to look primarily at that.\n\nBack in the old days of personal computing, it was not uncommon to generate stepper motor signals from the CPU of a personal computer, using individually settable bits on either a special purpose interface (that is in fact basically how the head in a floppy drive was typically moved) or borrowing another available interface such as a parallel printer port.\n\nBut then two things happened: computers got faster, but more isolated from the world, and operating systems in common use became much more strict in what they permitted.\n\nTo move a high resolution stepper at a decent speed, you need to generate either step pulses or winding activation signals at a fairly high rate. And to accelerate and decelerate a motor under load, you need to finely vary their timing. Back when I/O ports hung directly off processor buses, and operating systems could not prevent programs from speeding up the system hardware timer in order to run a stepper routine rapidly, this worked to a degree. But today:\n\n\nMost PC class processors have little, if any directly coupled I/O - especially by the time you get outside the box. An interface like USB is great for moving a large amount of data per unit time, but it is absolutely horrible for accomplishing a trivial task with precise, frequent timing - it is a freight train, not a bicycle courier. Many of the things which let a processor internally operate quickly specifically work by decoupling it from an outside world that often cannot keep up - memory caches, bus exchange units, etc. If you do find a parallel port today, it is likely to be on the far side of a PCI bus bridge at the least, and have a different low-level interface than a legacy one.\nModern operating systems have a time-slice scheduler which \"\"owns\"\" the CPU(s) and hands out small chunks of processing time to ordinary programs. These programs typically get to run often enough to appear responsive to the user, but not frequently enough to accurately drive stepper motors. There are various schemes which have been tried, for example to create a \"\"hard real time\"\" scheduler which owns the processor, and allows a motor control task to register for precisely needed time slices - then, with whatever time is left over a Linux or Windows or similar kernel is allowed to run, and divide up the remaining time among ordinary programs through its scheduling rules. Of course, such a scheme tends to need to be revised each time the utilized conventional operating system has a new major release.\n\n\nWhile there are ways around these issues, they tend to require atypical hardware and deep changes to the operating system installation - making them neither inexpensive nor easy to setup for end users.\n\nInstead, it is generally simpler and more cost effective (not even $10 these days) to put an embedded processor on an external circuit board, and have it act as a delegate to execute precise-timing tasks on behalf of the host processor. Somewhat extending from the idea of industrial CNC machines that originally read punched paper tape, and were later updated with a scheme where an ordinary computer \"\"drip feeds\"\" G-code commands over a serial port, modern 3D Printers tend to deliver G-code (or other) command data a little bit in advance of when it is needed, so that the latency of a USB or serial connection doesn't really matter. Normally enough data is buffered on the printer for it to keep running, but even if not it would only pause briefly between the complete moves which are transmitted, not experience motor stuttering as it would if the USB were trying to deliver each individual step pulse.\n\nAs for why an Arduino - probably mostly the history of who built the machines which kicked off the enthusiast printing trend. If someone from an industrial background were tasked with building something like an FDM printer or a machine with similar motion needs in isolation today, chances are they would end up with an ARM processor that would be a bit faster, more flexible, and with more resources, and likely cost a little less. But in actual history, the early affordable machines were built by those in maker community, who were already familiar with the availability of the Arduino, and willing to put some cleverness into getting good motion out of its limitations. RAMPS in particular seems designed to be a coarse-pitch through-hole bridge that a hobbyist could build themselves, and then buy the slightly trickier to work with surface mount processor and motor drive chips preassembled in the form of an Arduino Mega and stepper drive modules. That even fairly propriety machines maintain these basic parts choices is probably an indication of the utility of not \"\"reinventing the wheel\"\" - if you want to develop a printer, you can start from available components and customize them only one by one as you choose, rather than not being able to run your development prototype until you get a working circuit board designed and fabbed, a working software base developed, etc.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n1053,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,librariman,1.0891412423578797,4.151510218313422,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Pushing Text into surface - Google Sketchup,\"In Google Sketchup, I have text on a surface that I'd like to push / pull so that the text is etched into, rather than placed upon the surface. I can't seem to figure this out, the text disappears when I try to push it into the surface and I'm not quite sure what else to try. Any advice?\n\",darth pixel,\"Definitely you have to perform substract operation.\nTake a look here\n\nExtrude text and then substract it from the object to etch in.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n1063,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,EvilTeach,1.0891412423578797,3.1447983993774047,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Print contaminated by chips of previous filament colors,\"I have a flashforge creator dual.\n\nFrom time to time while printing a model I notice when there are abrupt changes in direction, that a few \"\"Grains\"\" of old filament fall out from the head. Generally they end up embedded in the print which is not a big deal, but sometimes they get into a visible portion.\n\nI can mitigate this somewhat by disassembling down to the gears, and blowing out all of the old filament.\n\nMy question is two fold\n\"\"What is causing these chips to accumulate near the gears?\"\"\n\n\"\"Is there something I can do to resolve this issue?\"\"\n\",darth pixel,\"My bet is your extruder knurls are scratching the filament. If it happens for specific filament then probably it doesn't keep its diameter. It means you can avoid these grains by using better filament.\n\nIf it happens always then you could do 3 things\n\n\nreduce stress on the spring which pushes filament to extruder gear\nmake extruder gear less sharp\neventually change the great itself\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n1128,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,EvilTeach,2.528907649931287,4.105539510013858,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.929104701733314,4.410384278773418,Travel Mug Woes,\"I have a 30ish year old travel mug from Sheetz that I intend to model and print using my OpenScad skills. The fact that it is an insulated mug means that the inside is hollow to an extent.\n\nWhat reccomendations do you have toward turning this into a foodsafe, leakproof success?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"You cannot make a safe coffee cup using home FDM printers. There are no printable thermoplastics available to consumers/hobbyists that will reliably AND safely contain coffee/tea temperature beverages. \n\nEven though some plastics may appear mechanically suitable at first sight, there are long-term issues with using thermoplastics for elevated temperature service. The material becomes weaker and less dimensionally stable under load as the temperature approaches the glass point of the polymer. For example, here is some Stratasys test data for ABS strength versus temperature:\n\n\n\nEven if the plastic survives a few uses, it may creep and warp over time. And that might be fine, depending on your needs! People have printed working coffee cups out of ABS before. For some definition of \"\"working\"\" you can make print a working coffee mug. It's just not going to work at the level of longevity and reliability that people typically expect from hot beverage containers. (Imagine if the handle breaks and pours scalding liquid in your lap.) PLA in particular tends to give out abruptly due to its unusual ability to creep to ultimate failure with very low elongations.\n\nThen there is the question of whether ANY FDM printed part is ever safe for repeated food service use. One-time uses (such as throw-away cookie cutters) might be perfectly fine, but repeated use introduces additional problems because FDM parts are porous. They contain a microscopic void/grain structure that is perfect for trapping food debris and sheltering bacteria. Every FDM part is similar in that regard to an old, scratched, wooden cutting board. They are difficult to effectively sanitize. A high-temp dishwasher cycle will do the job, but that imposes significant thermal stress on thermoplastics. \n\nHere's an example micrograph I took of voids in a printed part (strands all aligned the same way to highlight the shape):\n\n\n\nThese voids will also allow liquids to leak unless careful print settings are used. Over-extruding with multiple perimeters, or doing some kind of post-print sealing can make water-tight parts. It's not hard, just takes some experimenting. \n\nThere is also considerable anecdotal evidence that much of the cheap filament from Asia is full of nasty, toxic substances that may leach into hot beverages. Heavy metals like lead, strontrium, and cadmium are often found in thermoplastics as processing aids, pigments, or simply from unscrupulous companies disposing of industrial ashes by mixing them into dark-colored filaments for export. US-made and EU-made filaments seem to be better in this regard. \n\nNow that the basic issues are out of the way... Here is the breakdown of specific materials you might want to try:\n\n\nPLA blends used in 3d printing will soften and fail almost instantly on contact with hot beverages. (They contain melt-reducers and viscosity modifiers and polymer molecular weights specific to FDM filament and will perform differently from injection-molded PLA products.) It is possible to anneal PLA to survive higher temperatures, as this increases the crystallinity of the polymer and thus makes it more heat-stable. However, that is highly experimental and results will vary considerably with filament provider, color/pigment, and annealing process used. Even annealed PLA is unlikely to survive long-term against very hot beverages and dishwasher use.\nABS will become fairly weak at hot beverage temperatures. It may survive use for a while, but is quite weak and will slowly creep with very hot beverages or in a high-temp dishwasher. ABS IS approved for food use in many contexts, despite what many people think, but hot beverages are not one of the approved uses.\nPET blends are chemically a pretty good choice -- soda bottles are PET -- but generally have glass points around 70-75C and thus will be weak or fail outright at hot beverage temperatures. It is also important to ask what is being blended into the PET. For example, PETG is \"\"glycol modified\"\" but filament vendors do not share any details about this or reveal how it may affect the polymer's leaching behavior.\nMost nylons will creep under load at surprisingly low temperatures, perhaps 50-55C depending on the blend. Nylons are also attacked by acids and will absorb stains and smells from coffee. Nylons also tend to swell/shrink quite dramatically on exposure to water, so mechanical fit and general shape of nylon parts may not be stable enough even for cold beverage service. Taulman's 910 is probably a good candidate for hot beverage service due to its high working temperature, but acid attack from coffee exposure may still be an issue in the long run. It's worth trying. \nPolycarbonate is thermally stable even in boiling water, so mechanically it is fine, but PC leaches BPA (one of the monomers left over from manufacture) into hot liquids. \nHigh-temp exotics like Ultem and PEEK aren't printable by consumer/hobbyist printers at the size scale required for a coffee mug. They simply warp too much unless you have an oven for a heated build chamber. \n\n\nIn summary, you can make a working coffee mug via FDM printing, but it isn't a great idea. Your best bet for 3d printing a coffee mug is ordering ceramic printed from an online service bureau.\n\",3.367452517504837,2.0769199823829045\n1156,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,EvilTeach,3.267423727073639,5.745524470621781,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.585260288142579,\"Would a steel, instead of an aluminium, plate be reasonable?\",\"I have a Flashforge Creator Dual.\n\nOne corner of my print bed is warped down. I am thinking about having a steel print bed made so it would tend to stay flat. \n\nHas anyone tried this?\n\",tbm0115,\"I would consider getting another aluminum build plate for the following reasons:\n\n\nLightweight. Aluminum is a very lightweight metal, making it suitable for most machines that have injection molded platform arms. This reduces potential sagging of the arms and overall load on the -Z- axis stepper motor.\nConductivity. Referring to this simple Google search for heat conductivity, aluminum is significantly more conductive than steel (205 vs 43 respectively) with copper at about double that of aluminum.\nAvailability. Aluminum is already a widely used material for 3D printing, so finding one will be relatively easy and probably cheaper than having a steel build plate custom made.\n\n\nIn conclusion, I personally would not recommend using steel for your build plate as aluminum seems to have the most benefits. Yes, steel will be more rigid and durable, but I don't think that these should be variables that are significantly more beneficial over aluminum.\n\",3.2133663407215876,0.0\n1156,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,EvilTeach,3.267423727073639,5.745524470621781,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.585260288142579,\"Would a steel, instead of an aluminium, plate be reasonable?\",\"I have a Flashforge Creator Dual.\n\nOne corner of my print bed is warped down. I am thinking about having a steel print bed made so it would tend to stay flat. \n\nHas anyone tried this?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"Whether you should use steel or aluminum depends on the construction of your print bed stack. Either will work, but there are trade-offs involved.\n\nVarious considerations that may come into play:\n\n\nA flat sheet of aluminum has better stiffness/weight ratio than a flat sheet of steel. If weight/mass is a concern, such as with a Mendel style moving Y-bed, aluminum may be superior to an equivalent stiffness steel sheet. On the other hand, steel has the superior stiffness/thickness ratio, so if the total thickness of the plate is constrained, such as by the printer's mounting hardware, steel may be higher performance. In short, for sheets of equivalent stiffness, aluminum will be thicker but lighter. That may or may not matter for your specific printer. \nDifferential thermal expansion can be an issue, depending on what the plate is attached to. For example, rigidly bolting a steel sheet to an aluminum sub-frame will cause the structure to warp when its temperature changes. Likewise for bolting an aluminum sheet to a steel sub-frame. Bed mounts that \"\"float\"\" will not cause warping in either case. \nAll kinds of rolled sheet metal may have a tendency to warp when heated/cooled, due to residual stresses and grain alignment effects from manufacture. When people want extreme dimensional stability for the flattest and lowest-warp print bed possible, an aluminum cast tooling plate material such as MIC 6 is usually used. The MIC 6 sheet is then precision ground to be flat. Of course, that adds cost. \nNeither aluminum nor steel is a particularly good bare print surface. Either will need some kind of adhesion layer, like Kapton tape or gluestick. The adhesion layer matters far more than the type of metal underneath.\nAluminum sheets are often used as heat-spreaders to even out the bed temperature of heated beds. This is very important when heaters are smaller than the total bed size, or have hot spots. (Most heaters do have hot spots.) Steel is a relatively poor conductor of heat, so the surface of the bed will take longer to heat up and will be less even. That may or may not be an issue, depending on the printer and desired materials. \n\n\nSo, it's really a holistic design decision. Aluminum is far more common because of its thermal properties and lower weight, but steel print beds (particularly with permanent adhesion coatings) are often used too. \n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n3047,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,EvilTeach,2.528907649931287,4.398146571528132,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,While filament loading extruded filament wiggles,\"I cleaned up my Flashforge Creator Dual tonight, and loaded some transparent ABS prepping for a print. The filament extruded fine, then started to wiggle, then became fine again. Hot end is 0.4 mm and was heated to 230C. What sort of steps should I take to troubleshoot the issue? Has anyone seen this before?\n\n\n\",fred_dot_u,\"If the filament displayed in the photo is the result of unimpeded extrusion from your nozzle, you don't have or have not described a problem. Filament extruded from a hot nozzle will react to many things. If a slight air temperature change is created on one side of the extruding filament, it will cool faster than the other side and curve in the direction of the cooler temperatures.\n\nIf there is a bit of old filament on the tip of the nozzle, it can cause the filament to hook back on itself, creating an interesting squiggle of filament before the weight is sufficient to cause it to drop.\n\nA typical 3d printer problem is related to the results of a print or an obvious mechanical failure. Wiggly extruded filament is not a symptom of a looming failure, unless you have other indicators.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n3047,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,EvilTeach,2.528907649931287,4.398146571528132,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,While filament loading extruded filament wiggles,\"I cleaned up my Flashforge Creator Dual tonight, and loaded some transparent ABS prepping for a print. The filament extruded fine, then started to wiggle, then became fine again. Hot end is 0.4 mm and was heated to 230C. What sort of steps should I take to troubleshoot the issue? Has anyone seen this before?\n\n\n\",darth pixel,\"It might be similar to this issue (where teflon tube wasn't installed what caused softening filament inside heatsink)\n\nPlease check if your extruder is equipped with proper pipe inside (inner pipe diameter).\n\nBut the most probable cause is that a pipe had slide out so filament has enough room to get soft and to form such shape going out. Please take a look also here.\n\nHere is a situation and its evolution.\n\nfig. A:\n1. filament\n2. teflon tube (well positioned)\n3. heatsink\n4. nozzle\n5. extruded filament\n\nfig. B:\n6. slided out teflon tube\n7. empty space (heat)\n\nfig. C:\n8. bent filament\n\nfig. D:\n9. teflon tube\n10. no extrusion\n\nHow it happens?\n\nTeflon tube is usually well positioned so everything is fine in most cases. Sometimes because of poor filament (not-constant diameter) or because of bends on filament, teflon tube is slided out os its place while retraction. It goes on and on, up and up (fig.B)\n\nOnce tube is extended that much so filament starts to bend in empty (heat) space (fig.C) It increases the effect of sliding out teflon tube just because of bend (it works as a hook). But it can still work. Teflon tube can even be pressed back inside the nest.\n\nNow because the empty space is heat then filament starts to melt (for example when there is no extrusion for a second) it becomes soft. When filament is soft enough it doesn't extrude as the force to press it throught the nozzle is too high for such soft material so filement definitely stops extruding itself. (fig.D) This situation cannot be fixed automatically. There is a need of user intervention.\n\nNow you know why some extruders has a rim (or collar) on the top of heat barier tube. It secures a teflon tube from sliding out.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n3863,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,EvilTeach,1.0891412423578797,4.389229469690946,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Is there a technique for turning an image into a 2d model?,\"The overall goal is to create a print of the liberty bell. No clapper is needed. The support beam is not needed. I am just looking to mimic the outside shape of the bell. After an application of Google-fu I found this image. It has been cleaned up and cropped a bit.\n\n\n\nIn OpenScad the surface function was applied to the png to generate a height model. I subtracted out a few cubes, and eventually got it down to a layer of about .1 height.\n\nMy Evil (pun intended) plan is to get it down to a 2d model. Then by shifting a copy of model from itself, and subtracting the two. That should leave just the curve. Then rotate_extrude the curve to generate the actual bell at the desired thickness.\n\nI see the problem coming. If the model is layered down to zero height it will vanish. Leaving me nothing to rotate.\n\nSo on to the question.\n\nIs there any tool or technique to turn the image into a 2d openscad object or failing that is there another way to approach the problem?\n\n \n\nThe direction that fred pointed me at is viable. I didn't use the actual image shown here, but a manually generated one from OpenScad. As a proof of concept the technique works well.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"As you are already familiar with OpenSCAD, consider to use the projection() function to accomplish your goal.\n\nIf you allow for an interpretation that one can cast a shadow of the part on a surface below, it becomes a 2D representation of the part. This is effectively how projection works in OpenSCAD.\n\nNote that the part image below is centered in x, y, z and the cut/projection action takes place at the z = 0 plane:\n\n\n\nWhen the function is applied to this model, the result is a non-contiguous 2d image:\n\n\n\nWhen the cut parameter is ignored or set to false, the image which results is effectively an orthogonal shadow of the entire object, rather than a selected slice:\n\n\n\nIt gets better, of course. In OpenSCAD, the translate, rotate and scale functions apply. One can tip a model over, resize it, spin it around, combine with the cut parameter and get any combination of 2d image from the original model:\n\n\n\n\n\nIt's important to note that OpenSCAD does provide non-zero thickness to these projections when rendered, or maybe when previewed. I always get those two swapped around. As your objective is a 2D result, you may be able to select from PNG (save as image) or Export as DXF or SVG.\n\nRe-reading your post, I also missed part of a more useful answer. Once you have the profile you desire, you can use the rotate_extrude function on the profile you generate. Despite the non-zero thickness, it uses the zero-thickness aspect to create the model from that function.\n\nThat aspect of the answer is left as an exercise for the reader, as the options are many and results can be complex.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3863,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,EvilTeach,1.0891412423578797,4.389229469690946,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Is there a technique for turning an image into a 2d model?,\"The overall goal is to create a print of the liberty bell. No clapper is needed. The support beam is not needed. I am just looking to mimic the outside shape of the bell. After an application of Google-fu I found this image. It has been cleaned up and cropped a bit.\n\n\n\nIn OpenScad the surface function was applied to the png to generate a height model. I subtracted out a few cubes, and eventually got it down to a layer of about .1 height.\n\nMy Evil (pun intended) plan is to get it down to a 2d model. Then by shifting a copy of model from itself, and subtracting the two. That should leave just the curve. Then rotate_extrude the curve to generate the actual bell at the desired thickness.\n\nI see the problem coming. If the model is layered down to zero height it will vanish. Leaving me nothing to rotate.\n\nSo on to the question.\n\nIs there any tool or technique to turn the image into a 2d openscad object or failing that is there another way to approach the problem?\n\n \n\nThe direction that fred pointed me at is viable. I didn't use the actual image shown here, but a manually generated one from OpenScad. As a proof of concept the technique works well.\n\",com.prehensible,\"You could have done that with OpenSCAD, there are instructions for extruding. \n\nPersonally, I'd just do a 1 altitude copy with \nImage 2 STL 2 Heightmap Mesh Converter Generator, then rotate in OpenSCAD. It's called rotate_extrude() and is used for seashells.\n\nIn MeshLab you can use Laplacian Smooth to depixelate/antialias it.\n\",0.0,0.0\n6451,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,EvilTeach,2.528907649931287,3.4471789634270973,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Build plate cools during print,\"I am using a Flashforge Creator Dual Extrusion 3D Printer with RepG (ReplicatorG), and tonight a print completely detached from the build plate.\n\nI reset everything and watched it closely. It is a simple abs print at 230/110 degrees.\n\nA few seconds after start of print, I noticed that the print bed temp had dropped to 109... and kept dropping.\n\nThis is new behavior. I haven't started to troubleshoot yet. I am looking for suggestions on how to troubleshoot the issue.\n\nEdit 1:\n\nTonight RepG would not connect to the printer. I reseated the USB cord \n and now it does.\n\nThe test print is ABS at 230/110 from this open scad.\n\ndifference()\n{\n cylinder(d = 10, h = 2);\n cylinder(d = 9, h = 2);\n}\n\n\nPᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2/Oscar\n Once the print starts the print bed begins cooling. It is cooling before \n any filament is laid down.\n\nEdit 2:\n\nExamination of the gcode shows the root cause. It does contain\n\nM104 S230 T1 (set extruder temperature)\n\n\nIt does not contain a \n\nM109 S110 (set build plate temperature)\n\n\nWhen I manually add the M109 to the gcode file, the model prints normally, and the build plate temperature holds for the duration of the print. \n\nThe drop in temperature last week is due to the fact that I tend to preheat the printer before actually starting the print. Since there was no M109 the bed plate cooled to ambient temperature.\n\nThere isn't a hardware issue here. Most likely it is a Rep G configuration error of some sort.\n\nEdit 3:\n\nI resolved the issue by a fresh install of the latest Rep G. I rebuilt the profiles from scratch with G Code to set the correct bed temp. Thank you for your suggestions.\n\",cmm,\"Check your slicer settings. Some slicers allow the temperature to change at a specified layer. You may have programmed the slic3r to turn off the bed after the first (or maybe zeroth) layer.\n\nYou call also examine the G-code for M140, M144, and M190 commands.\n\nOf course, the usual intermittent electric connections, power supply failures, etc. should be checked, but don't overlook the possibility that it is working exactly as you are asking it to work. \n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n6451,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,EvilTeach,2.528907649931287,3.4471789634270973,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Build plate cools during print,\"I am using a Flashforge Creator Dual Extrusion 3D Printer with RepG (ReplicatorG), and tonight a print completely detached from the build plate.\n\nI reset everything and watched it closely. It is a simple abs print at 230/110 degrees.\n\nA few seconds after start of print, I noticed that the print bed temp had dropped to 109... and kept dropping.\n\nThis is new behavior. I haven't started to troubleshoot yet. I am looking for suggestions on how to troubleshoot the issue.\n\nEdit 1:\n\nTonight RepG would not connect to the printer. I reseated the USB cord \n and now it does.\n\nThe test print is ABS at 230/110 from this open scad.\n\ndifference()\n{\n cylinder(d = 10, h = 2);\n cylinder(d = 9, h = 2);\n}\n\n\nPᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2/Oscar\n Once the print starts the print bed begins cooling. It is cooling before \n any filament is laid down.\n\nEdit 2:\n\nExamination of the gcode shows the root cause. It does contain\n\nM104 S230 T1 (set extruder temperature)\n\n\nIt does not contain a \n\nM109 S110 (set build plate temperature)\n\n\nWhen I manually add the M109 to the gcode file, the model prints normally, and the build plate temperature holds for the duration of the print. \n\nThe drop in temperature last week is due to the fact that I tend to preheat the printer before actually starting the print. Since there was no M109 the bed plate cooled to ambient temperature.\n\nThere isn't a hardware issue here. Most likely it is a Rep G configuration error of some sort.\n\nEdit 3:\n\nI resolved the issue by a fresh install of the latest Rep G. I rebuilt the profiles from scratch with G Code to set the correct bed temp. Thank you for your suggestions.\n\",0scar,\"Preheating the bed is a commonly used approach to shorten the time to print. I'll explain; it actually does not shorten the physical print time itself, but before you start a print there is always stuff to do like inserting the SD-card or loading the model in the print server, while you do that, the bed will be heating, so time gained.\n\nWhen you load a model it apparently resets the temperatures, so preheating will only have an effect when you also actually set the bed temperature in the G-code file. This means that either your G-code file has some codes that influence the temperature, the connector is loose or loading a print over the program you use must reset the bed temperature, there aren't any other options.\n\nTo comment on your G-code, M109 is used to set the extruder temperature and wait till it is reached, M190 is used to set the bed temperature and wait till it is reached. Usually M190 is used to set the bed temperature before the first layer is being printed; the printer waits until the temperature is reached before the printer continues to the next command (usually the heating of the hotend). If you have selected a different temperature for the rest of the print you will find the M140 G-code command prior to printing the second layer.\n\nI have tested on my Prusa i3 clone running a Marlin fork to print a model with all references to M190 and M140 removed. I pre-heated to 70 °C (for PETG) and loaded the model in OctoPrint print server and commenced the print. The printer retained the bed value and did not drop.\n\nBasically, it is needed to take a closer look at your G-code file. The answer must be in there. If there is nothing to find in the G-code file and electronic connections are fine, the answer must be found in ReplicatorG, this might send reset signals prior to sending the print, but that sounds really strange.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1065,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,albseb,1.726248027126092,4.08659954222661,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Ball valve to be prototyped,\"Hey so theres a product we have been prototyping. \nWe cant do FDM. The item has a ball valve. \nand the ball ~ 1.6-1.9mm \nI cant seem to prototype it. I have tried SLS, SLA, Polyjet. \nAnybody knows what could be wrong, or what should be the dimension i should be using?\nI thought I would post this at engineering section, but since I have to prototype I thought its best if its in 3D Printing section\n\nEdit:\n\n\n\nUpdate: \n\n\n\nSo heres a figure showing the direction of air flow. \n\nUpdate: \nThanks both answers are helpful. though not a precise answer. Then again, there is no correct answer. \nThanks a bunch. Lets see how the coming months are. :p\n\",tbm0115,\"As mentioned above in the comments, this really isn't a good application of 3D Printing. At least, not with expectation that it functions. I'd suggest using 3D printing to verify other dimensions and having the part machined traditionally. That ball and \"\"seal\"\" needs to be precision ground or honed to fit in order to stop air flow.\n\nMy company has manufactured parts similar to this and the way to go was to produce a concave \"\"cup\"\" for the ball to settle into and hone the edges with a diamond slush using a ball end mill. That way, the ball settles into the cup and the pressure creates the seal.\n\nOmitted due to update in OP's imageUpdate\nExcuse the poor SketchUp drawing, but this might help explain a potential design change:\nDeprecated image\n\n\nPlease see DarthPixel's answer for a good design choice.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n1065,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,albseb,1.726248027126092,4.08659954222661,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Ball valve to be prototyped,\"Hey so theres a product we have been prototyping. \nWe cant do FDM. The item has a ball valve. \nand the ball ~ 1.6-1.9mm \nI cant seem to prototype it. I have tried SLS, SLA, Polyjet. \nAnybody knows what could be wrong, or what should be the dimension i should be using?\nI thought I would post this at engineering section, but since I have to prototype I thought its best if its in 3D Printing section\n\nEdit:\n\n\n\nUpdate: \n\n\n\nSo heres a figure showing the direction of air flow. \n\nUpdate: \nThanks both answers are helpful. though not a precise answer. Then again, there is no correct answer. \nThanks a bunch. Lets see how the coming months are. :p\n\",darth pixel,\"Hey why to make it soooo sophisticated and poor?\nAir valve cannot be designed with 2 stiff elements - it will never work.\n\nMake the air your friend but not the enemy. Use old good rubber (silicone) \"\"flake\"\" instead. Especially when you have such small design.\n\nTake a look on the picture.\n\n\n\nHere you have black element which is rubber or silicone. It's sticked on one side. When air goes from the pipe (goes up) then rubber is slack so the air can flow. When you suck then rubber seals the pipe.\n\n[edit]\n\nYou can find such solution in for example bike pumps, inflatable matterss pumps also gas masks and so on. It's pretty fine for low pressure. \n\nOf course ball valves are also widely use but then such device has to have \"\"rubber\"\" ball nest so ball lies on the rubber ring to seal it. There has to be a spring to tight the ball to the ring. Without such spring turning the device upside down would cause the valve would not work at all.\nBall solutions are intended to higher pressure.\n\nPlease note the spring which tights a ball creates kinda threshold on the pressure level which means that pressure has to exceed a spring force to reduce a pressure. This doesn't occure in rubber valve.\n\nI don't know what device you are trying to prototype but I'm pretty sure a rubber valve will be just fine.\n\nPlease also note that sealing surface is very low in ball valve solution but in rubber valve it can be almost unlimited so it can seal quite well even when the surface is not perfect.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n1099,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,albseb,2.1782824847157594,4.423154423416797,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Makerbot Replicator 2 switches off and restarts automatically,\"My Makerbot replicator 2 stops and restarts automatically. I lose the print and the extruder head does not move from the position. (obviously).\nWe have checked wiring a few times. Have not seen any issues so far.\nMaybe I am missing something.\nWe have recently changed the ceramic tapes, fans etc. just recently. \n\nIt happens once in a while. But once it starts, it continuous, and it doesnt stop unless we shut it down for a few hours. or sometimes even days. \n\nAny ideas what the issue could be. Or are more details required. \n\",Diesel,\"I've heard of a few issues like this, always relating to hardware problems. If you feel comfortable opening up the hardware on your machine, confirm that all of your connections are firmly connected to your printers Circuit Cards. The issues i've dealt with I determined came from a loose connection and the gantry running would shake the connections enough to cause a loss of signal. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1066,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hastexon,2.8153892694839717,3.934757405499744,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.878685800062712,Preview 3d printing process,\"Is there any type of software in which you can animate the way the .stl object will be printed? \n\nI'm not talking about what the end result looks like. I'm talking about a tool which acts like it's printing the given object as an animation.\n\nI know it somehow depends on your printer but is there anything I can use?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"You may wish to consider Craftware for your purposes. It's a free program in beta form that does provide a tool-path animation for printing the layers. It is not so much specific to a printer as it is configurable for your own requirements. The video shows what I believe you are seeking at about the two minute point.\n\nSimplify3D also provides such information, but is not a free program.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n1066,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hastexon,2.8153892694839717,3.934757405499744,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.878685800062712,Preview 3d printing process,\"Is there any type of software in which you can animate the way the .stl object will be printed? \n\nI'm not talking about what the end result looks like. I'm talking about a tool which acts like it's printing the given object as an animation.\n\nI know it somehow depends on your printer but is there anything I can use?\n\",darth pixel,\"I'm using MatterControl and it has such visualization. User can see synchronized animation which shows how the object is actually printed and user is able to see each path of filament put onto the layer.\n\nIt's possible to control starting and ending position so it's possible to precisely visualize each milimiter of filament even between start and end point.\n\nMatterControl also visualizes extrude flow so if user set extrude to 150% or 200% then application shows wider \"\"line\"\".\n\nAll of it can be seen in 2D (from top view) and in 3D (perspective view).\nThere is also possible to see overlay (by transparency) and print speed (visualized by color).\n\nMatterControl also shows non-printing moves and retraction points and their hight.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1072,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dan Powers,2.1782824847157594,4.010992473702021,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,My MakerBot 2 jams after a couple hours of prints,\"My MakerBot 2 jams after a couple hours of prints. It is a couple months old, and the tip stops extruding after a couple straight hours of prints. I am guessing that there is a design flaw and that the media is melting inside the extruder before the feeding teeth. Does anyone have experience with this?\n\",tbm0115,\"As you stated, it could be a result of the material beginning to melt before the extruder. Here's a few things to look out for:\n\n\nIs your extruder temperature appropriate for the material? Typical printing temperatures can range anywhere from 200 - 225 °C for PLA (depending on the supplier). Often, if the extruder is too hot, the material will bubble or over extrude.\nIs the material of proper quality? There's a reason MakerBot Industries wants you to use their filament (besides putting their hands in your pocket book), and that is repeatability. They've tested their filament on their hardware and ensured that the material will extrude with regular print settings.\nIs the material being stored properly? Sometimes people forget to store PLA in a dry place to avoid absorbing moisture in the filament. If moisture is absorbed, it can perform poorly in the print. Indications of moisture can include a slight steam from the extruder and/or bubbles in the extruded material (similar to overheating).\nAre the fans operating correctly? If the fans aren't running or aren't running enough, the filament begins to heat further up the extrusion assembly (closer to the drive gear) which can inhibit extrusion. I know that MakerWare/MakerBot Desktop has been updated lately with more emphasis on controlling fans for active cooling, so make sure that your fan(s) are operating for duration of the print as necessary.\n\n\nAll and all, your filament is getting too hot. If you can't determine the sudden change, consider printing with a lower extruder temperature from now on. However, if you're using MakerBot filament (or similar quality) then I would definitely verify that your machine is calibrated, wires are fully connected, and settings are double checked. If all is as expected, then you should call MakerBot support (since they're closed source now, they technically have an obligation to help you) especially since the machine is so new.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n1072,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dan Powers,2.1782824847157594,4.010992473702021,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,My MakerBot 2 jams after a couple hours of prints,\"My MakerBot 2 jams after a couple hours of prints. It is a couple months old, and the tip stops extruding after a couple straight hours of prints. I am guessing that there is a design flaw and that the media is melting inside the extruder before the feeding teeth. Does anyone have experience with this?\n\",albseb,\"Check if your tapes on your extruder have worn out. \nIf that is the case,\nthe heat will travel into the motor. when it pushes the filament through the ambient temperature is greater than the temperature of defrom of PLA (~70 °C). When this happens the filament starts bending inside and clogs inside. \nThis is one case only. You could hear a small repeated noise, also the motor will be extremely hot.\n\nEdit: Also make sure your fans are running at speed. sometimes due to improper wiring it runs at 30-50 %. just give it a light tap. The speed difference is visually noticeable.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n1167,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dan Powers,1.726248027126092,4.132185323536744,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,How could I keep the material on the print plate from bending up on a makerbot 2?,\"I printed a big base for a model, but the corners of the bottom bent up, making the whole base rock when set on a table. Is there a quick fix for a makerbot2 without a heated plate?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"\nConsider using a different material. Since you're on a replicator 2 you're probably not printing with ABS (which would be a terrible choice for a large, flat model) but probably with PLA. Perhaps you could try printing with PET(G) instead, which tends to warp even less.\nYou could try modifying your model a little. If you include several grooves in the bottom surface of your model that may provide some \"\"strain relief\"\" so-to-speak, preventing warping.\nIncrease adhesion: print your initial layer slower, closer to the build surface, at a higher temperature, with a brim, and with some kind of print surface to increase adhesion (tape/glue/hairspray).\nIncrease ambient temperature. The Replicator 2 does not have a heated bed, but you could still make the cooling more gradual by enclosing the printer, shielding it from drafts, etc...\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n1167,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dan Powers,1.726248027126092,4.132185323536744,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,How could I keep the material on the print plate from bending up on a makerbot 2?,\"I printed a big base for a model, but the corners of the bottom bent up, making the whole base rock when set on a table. Is there a quick fix for a makerbot2 without a heated plate?\n\",darth pixel,\"here are the options:\n\n\nUse brim settings which increase contact surface.\nUse some sort of glue. People are using many things including hairspray. I do prefer paper glue stick.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1076,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,snOm3ad,1.726248027126092,4.398146571528132,0.0,5.199501240805782,2.3655567426522146,1.9721387515589952,What is a good book to read about 3D printers?,\"I've been interested in 3D printing for the past month however, I have noticed that it's sort of a \"\"reserved\"\" topic. Meaning that everyone who talks about it, has already some basic knowledge about the topic. What are some good resources for someone who wants to start learning from zero? My main goal is to acquire enough knowledge in order to build my own 3D printer.\n\",tjb1,\"You can learn a lot just by reading the forums. I'll just list a few that are quite popular...\n\nReprap Forums - Has a ton of information on DIY printers including build logs and posts dealing with many issues.\n\nSoliforum - Large user base with lots of information. Not sure what it's standing is now that Solidoodle is gone but I'm sure the forum will stick around.\n\nSeeMeCNC - Support forum for SeeMeCNC, has a lot of information for Delta printers and also other printers.\n\nThere aren't many books that I know of...Make magazine has done a few issues on 3D printing that you could try to obtain. I'm not sure what your idea of building a printer is, do you want to design your own or follow someone's instructions and put one together? Designing one would require some basic hardware and engineering knowledge.\n\nAll that said, the best learning experience would be buying a kit and learning as you go. You'll never read in a book what you will learn from having your own printer.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n1076,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,snOm3ad,1.726248027126092,4.398146571528132,0.0,5.199501240805782,2.3655567426522146,1.9721387515589952,What is a good book to read about 3D printers?,\"I've been interested in 3D printing for the past month however, I have noticed that it's sort of a \"\"reserved\"\" topic. Meaning that everyone who talks about it, has already some basic knowledge about the topic. What are some good resources for someone who wants to start learning from zero? My main goal is to acquire enough knowledge in order to build my own 3D printer.\n\",Ales Rebec,\"I would recommend Design for 3D Printing: Scanning, Creating, Editing, Remixing, and Making in Three Dimensions by Samuel N. Bernier, Bertier Luyt and Tatiana Reinhard\n\n\n\nIt has a lot of tips, tricks and examples.\nGood for beginners and experienced users.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n1080,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joe JMC IT,3.452496054252184,5.151487477798306,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,OctoPi (Octoprint) time lapse quality issues,\"I'm trying to squeeze a little better quality out of my time lapses generated by OctoPrint.\n\nI'm using the Raspberry Pi Camera Module V2 with a Pi 3. I've already edited the Octopi config to get 720p resolution, but the encoding during time lapse rendering is horrific. Blocky as hell.\n\nRight now the encoding is set up at 5000k.\nWhat am I doing wrong here?\n\",Jason King,\"That bitrate is pretty low, which might explain the blockiness (is that a word?).\n\nFrom YouTube's upload guidelines, you are encoding at the minimum recommended bitrate for standard 720P video. Maybe you should boost to 7500K (7.5 Mbps) and see if that helps.\n\nAlso, it appears that Octopi is merely calling ffmpeg locally and returning the video. The encoding that is being used might be resulting in blockiness. If you have access to the raw photos, you could just dump them into a directory on another machine and generate a video using a less-lossy video codec. Of course, this would only work if the photos you are taking are high quality. Assuming that they are, here is a nice resource for producing videos from image sequences in ffmpeg.\n\nGood luck!\n\nP.S. Alternatively, if you prefer a lightweight video tool with a GUI, you could use ImageJ.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1080,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joe JMC IT,3.452496054252184,5.151487477798306,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,OctoPi (Octoprint) time lapse quality issues,\"I'm trying to squeeze a little better quality out of my time lapses generated by OctoPrint.\n\nI'm using the Raspberry Pi Camera Module V2 with a Pi 3. I've already edited the Octopi config to get 720p resolution, but the encoding during time lapse rendering is horrific. Blocky as hell.\n\nRight now the encoding is set up at 5000k.\nWhat am I doing wrong here?\n\",cabbey,\"There's a new timelapse plugin called octolapse that may help. One of the things I noticed with the default timelapses is that lots of things change from image to image, which results in HUGE amounts of mpeg artifacts as it has to constantly redraw large parts of the screen. With octolapse and it's stabilized images the change from image to image is very minimal... mostly just the new layer. The reduction of how much stuff is moving means the same, or even lower, encoded bitrate produces far superior movies.\n\nCompare this 11.1 MB file from the default timelapse tool:\nhttps://cabbey.smugmug.com/Fun/3D-Printing/i-9DrS42n/A\n\nto this 6.8MB file from octolapse:\nhttps://cabbey.smugmug.com/Fun/3D-Printing/i-p3GvvhH/A\n\nNote that these are the SAME PRINT JOB, as I had both tools recording at the same time.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n1085,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Curtis,3.452496054252184,5.802038307063574,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.929104701733314,3.206343760378365,Why does my PLA filament form a spiral shape and clog my extruder?,\"I'm using brand new PLA filament and am getting frequent clogs in my extruder.\n\nI've had this problem with 2 different filaments from 2 different vendors.\n\nIt will be print just fine, then clog up. It doesn't ever seem to go more than 5 minutes before clogging. When it clogs, and I pull out the filament, it is always twisted in a spiral (helix) shape like a corkscrew. I have put a picture of 2 clogs below.\n\nI have tried using temperature of 220 all the way down to 180 in increments of 5 degrees and seem to get the same result. it prints the base layer GREAT on the 70 degree heated bed. No warping or peeling off. However, after a few layers, it clogs up and stops extruding.\n\nI am using an HIC PRUSA I3 printer with a single extruder head. I've only had the printer for a couple weeks. It had been printing fine with ABS, but the ABS would peel up from the heated bed, so somebody suggested that I use PLA and hairspray. Hairspray is AWESOME !! It sticks really well and removes easily as well (once the bed cools a bit).\n\nPlease let me know if you've had the same problem with the extruder just clogging up and twisting the filament into a corkscrew shape.\n\nBy the way, pay no attention to the black marks on the green filament below. That's just me marking every half inch or so with a sharpie marker to see if it's still being extruded.\n\n\n\nI think I figured out the problem. Now, to figure out a solution...\nTake a look at the image below. There is a 1 inch tube that goes from the heat element to the heat sink. This 1 inch of tubing is REALLY hot and larger than 1.75mm. So, the filament goes through that tube on its way to the head and gets soft in the tube because the tube is so hot all the way down to the head. When the filament gets hot, it melts and bends and curls which makes it NOT push itself into the heated tip and out onto whatever I'm printing.\n\nThe solution would be to find some way to cool this 1 inch shaft between the heat sink and the heated head so that the filament inside of it won't melt.\n\nAny ideas??? \n\n\n\nHere is a picture of my heat tip. Note the shaft has about 1 inch sticking out of the heater. The top of that (above the white arrow) is inside the heat sink. But 3/4 inches of it are bare and uncovered. There is also no teflon tube inside the metal throat.\n\n\n\n\n\",amra,\"The distance between heat block and heat sink is too big (3/4 inch, almost 2 cm). In this area your filament is some half melt state, not cooled as in heat sink part, not melted as in heat block part. You should make as small as possible, less then 0.5 cm.\n\nGreat source of information about hot ends is video created by Thomas Sanladerer: Build your own 3D Printer: Which hotend to pick!\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n1085,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Curtis,3.452496054252184,5.802038307063574,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.929104701733314,3.206343760378365,Why does my PLA filament form a spiral shape and clog my extruder?,\"I'm using brand new PLA filament and am getting frequent clogs in my extruder.\n\nI've had this problem with 2 different filaments from 2 different vendors.\n\nIt will be print just fine, then clog up. It doesn't ever seem to go more than 5 minutes before clogging. When it clogs, and I pull out the filament, it is always twisted in a spiral (helix) shape like a corkscrew. I have put a picture of 2 clogs below.\n\nI have tried using temperature of 220 all the way down to 180 in increments of 5 degrees and seem to get the same result. it prints the base layer GREAT on the 70 degree heated bed. No warping or peeling off. However, after a few layers, it clogs up and stops extruding.\n\nI am using an HIC PRUSA I3 printer with a single extruder head. I've only had the printer for a couple weeks. It had been printing fine with ABS, but the ABS would peel up from the heated bed, so somebody suggested that I use PLA and hairspray. Hairspray is AWESOME !! It sticks really well and removes easily as well (once the bed cools a bit).\n\nPlease let me know if you've had the same problem with the extruder just clogging up and twisting the filament into a corkscrew shape.\n\nBy the way, pay no attention to the black marks on the green filament below. That's just me marking every half inch or so with a sharpie marker to see if it's still being extruded.\n\n\n\nI think I figured out the problem. Now, to figure out a solution...\nTake a look at the image below. There is a 1 inch tube that goes from the heat element to the heat sink. This 1 inch of tubing is REALLY hot and larger than 1.75mm. So, the filament goes through that tube on its way to the head and gets soft in the tube because the tube is so hot all the way down to the head. When the filament gets hot, it melts and bends and curls which makes it NOT push itself into the heated tip and out onto whatever I'm printing.\n\nThe solution would be to find some way to cool this 1 inch shaft between the heat sink and the heated head so that the filament inside of it won't melt.\n\nAny ideas??? \n\n\n\nHere is a picture of my heat tip. Note the shaft has about 1 inch sticking out of the heater. The top of that (above the white arrow) is inside the heat sink. But 3/4 inches of it are bare and uncovered. There is also no teflon tube inside the metal throat.\n\n\n\n\n\",darth pixel,\"The shape you get is quite easy to explain. It's the shape of the lowest energy possible in your situation. Simple but it doesn't explain the issue... or does it?\n\nIt does. The filament cannot be put into the extruder as it becomes plugged. This leads us to some obvious explanations. You can read this post.\n\nSo how is that possible that there is enough room to form such corkscrew? My bet is you don't have teflon pipe inside the extruder heatsink. So filament goes into the heatsink and everything is ok until the heatsink itself warms up to the temperature when filament becomes soft, then there is no enough force to push the filament out of the nozzle so above the nozzle filament bends and forms the shape of the lowest energy as said.\n\nOptions to check:\n\n\nTake your extruder apart. See if there is a teflon pipe. If its length is proper. \nCheck if cooling fan is working well, if it's pushing air to the heatsing but not sucks from the heatsink.\n\n\n[edit]\n\nLooking closer to your photos I'm pretty sure you don't have such teflon pipe. Your spiral has flat external (virtual) surface... it looks exactly as it would be pushed into hot pipe with diameter of 4mm.\n\n[edit2]\nplease take a look on the picture\n\n\",3.367452517504837,2.0769199823829045\n2689,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Curtis,3.267423727073639,5.567049702533224,0.0,5.199501240805782,3.749318730431847,3.1578498903161196,How do you heat a large glass print bed?,\"I have printed a MPCNC machine. It has a print area of about 30\"\" x 30\"\" and up to 11\"\" tall. (yes, those numbers are correct).\n\nI found a perfect piece of glass at a garage sale for $5.00 to use as my print bed. \n\nMy problem now is how to heat the glass? I was wondering if there is some sort of tape that would perhaps mimic what is on the rear window of a car, but I couldn't find it anywhere.\n\nAny ideas or links to something that can get me some progress on my search would be greatly appreciated.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Your best option may be to seek out a silicone rubber heating mat, using those terms for your web search. A quick search on my part shows many resources, some of which are known to the 3d printing manufacturing world, while others are equally suited for that purpose.\n\nDon't bond the heater to the glass. You'll need to replace it when it breaks. Consider to use borosilicate glass for better heat tolerance and smaller chance of breakage. A quick search for such a large size pane comes up empty, invalidating that suggestion.\n\nI've read of some people using water bed heaters for large area coverage, but they may heat the area unevenly.\n\nIt could be to your advantage to use multiple heater panels with temperature controls for each one. This would provide more uniform heating although more complex temperature management.\n\nI would post links, but there are so many from which to choose.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n2689,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Curtis,3.267423727073639,5.567049702533224,0.0,5.199501240805782,3.749318730431847,3.1578498903161196,How do you heat a large glass print bed?,\"I have printed a MPCNC machine. It has a print area of about 30\"\" x 30\"\" and up to 11\"\" tall. (yes, those numbers are correct).\n\nI found a perfect piece of glass at a garage sale for $5.00 to use as my print bed. \n\nMy problem now is how to heat the glass? I was wondering if there is some sort of tape that would perhaps mimic what is on the rear window of a car, but I couldn't find it anywhere.\n\nAny ideas or links to something that can get me some progress on my search would be greatly appreciated.\n\",StarWind0,\"I am heating my 1 meter by 1 meter plate (yes those numbers are correct) (in progress long term project) of tempered glass with a silicone heater bed I bought as overstock on ebay.\nSilicone Heating Mat\n\n\n\nFrom Reprap Wiki\n\n\n Silicone Heater Pad in sizes\n silicone heater pad Pros: Fast heating Reliable Most use mains voltage\n - DOESN'T require any amps from the 12 volt supply Very low height Easy to install (adhesive backed) Can be relatively inexpensive 12 V\n types can be run directly from the controller MOSFET without a relay\n Integrated thermistor Long life span Cons: Can be expensive - silicon\n mat (50€) plus solid state relay (16€). Mains voltage, but can be\n purchased for 12 V. Need GROUND line to aluminum bed for safety.\n Relatively high temperatures possible (safety problem if thermistor\n dies/falls off).\n\n\nI also talked to a few alibaba companies and they will happily make you a custom order. Just be wary working with them. You will also need to start another question about the particular parts you need. Actually I think I have a second one I bought from Aliexpress about that size. So no custom orders needed. Ran about 100 USD. I will note I used a MIC6 aluminum plate, custom cut at a local shop. That will have a more even heat profile than glass.\n\nI will note that I have to run mine from 220 VAC not 110 VAC power lines.. But the actual electrical costs are pretty low!\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n2715,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Curtis,2.8153892694839717,4.494085381880977,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.6553159206313057,What is a good strategy for removing 3d prints from an UNheated Glass bed?,\"I have a LARGE piece of glass (36\"\"x26\"\") that I will soon be printing on using my newly build MPCNC machine. It is capable of printing about 34\"\"x34\"\"x10\"\".\n\nAnyway, I have had GREAT success printing on heated glass that is sprayed lightly with hairspray using PLA and being able to EASILY remove my prints after the glass has cooled. I attribute this to the slight expansion and contraction that occurs when glass is heated and cooled. This would weaken the cohesion of the PLA print to the glass.\n\nI have another posting where I asked how to heat this LARGE glass bed. However, there weren't any feasable (inexpensive and easy) solutions to heat the glass. So, now with cold glass, what are some good strategies for removing large 3d printed objects without breaking them or the glass?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Because you will be printing on unheated glass, you will be using some form of adhesive material. If you use an off-the-shelf glue stick, you will likely find it is water soluble. If the bed is removable, immersing it in warm water for a relaxing soak will provide easier model removal. \n\nI don't have experience with various tapes, so will avoid recommendations regarding masking tapes or similar material.\n\nThermal cycling will also provide release. Not a heat gun, as that will break the glass, but a hair dryer applied to the underside near the model, then cooling. Repeat until it releases.\n\nI have used the Fleks3D print plate on my Flux Delta printer in the past, and it releases \"\"like magic\"\" but I don't think they make monster sheets of your printer size. I had also purchased a pair of 20\"\" square Fleks3D plates for a similarly sized printer that never materialized. I'd be happy to sell you the pair, but I think they are too small for your full plate.\n\nIt has been said that one can use sand-blasted acrylic, which I believe is the construction of the aforementioned Fleks3D plates. If you have access to 1/8\"\" or 3mm acrylic and can apply a uniform blast of abrasive, you may be able to construct your own easy-release build plate.\n\nIt is practical to consider to use a raft for your large builds. Rafts are useful for small items, to provide a greater bonding surface and avoid release, but it also provides a \"\"wedging\"\" location for your release tool. You can more easily slice away the middle of the raft and deal with a thinner layer after the model is completely freed.\n\nEDIT ADD: If the bed is not removable, one can build a dam around the model with clay to hold the water for dissolving the glue.\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n2715,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Curtis,2.8153892694839717,4.494085381880977,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.6553159206313057,What is a good strategy for removing 3d prints from an UNheated Glass bed?,\"I have a LARGE piece of glass (36\"\"x26\"\") that I will soon be printing on using my newly build MPCNC machine. It is capable of printing about 34\"\"x34\"\"x10\"\".\n\nAnyway, I have had GREAT success printing on heated glass that is sprayed lightly with hairspray using PLA and being able to EASILY remove my prints after the glass has cooled. I attribute this to the slight expansion and contraction that occurs when glass is heated and cooled. This would weaken the cohesion of the PLA print to the glass.\n\nI have another posting where I asked how to heat this LARGE glass bed. However, there weren't any feasable (inexpensive and easy) solutions to heat the glass. So, now with cold glass, what are some good strategies for removing large 3d printed objects without breaking them or the glass?\n\",William Contestabile,\"3M Blue decorators tape works well for me. You can get it in different widths. I find giving it a little sand paper rub before each print helps corners to stay down and improves first layer print. I replace about every 10 prints depending on the importance of the print.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1100,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user1008090,2.8153892694839717,5.496057373648176,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.9376260060201658,Hatchbox Silver PLA settings?,\"I have a RepRap Prusa i2. I have done the majority of my printing with clear PLA that I got on the cheap from eBay. It works just fine.\n\nI bought a roll of Hatchbox Silver PLA (1.75 mm) from Amazon. I have never had a print go well with it. I have tried various combinations of hotter and cooler extruder and bed (180 - 220°C extruder, 50 - 78°C bed). Prints always either curl up from the bed after 5-20 layers are deposited or delaminate in the middle of the print. I print directly on the heated glass bed, and have also tried various cooling fan settings.\n\nDoes anyone have good settings (Slic3r) to use with this stuff? Or any other advice for getting a successful print?\n\",B Hendricks,\"I use a Wahao Duplicator I3 with a heated bed. I have only used the orange Hatchbox PLA with great results. I use 210°C for the extruder and 55°C for the bed. Speed is 40 mm/s which works well for me. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1100,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user1008090,2.8153892694839717,5.496057373648176,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.9376260060201658,Hatchbox Silver PLA settings?,\"I have a RepRap Prusa i2. I have done the majority of my printing with clear PLA that I got on the cheap from eBay. It works just fine.\n\nI bought a roll of Hatchbox Silver PLA (1.75 mm) from Amazon. I have never had a print go well with it. I have tried various combinations of hotter and cooler extruder and bed (180 - 220°C extruder, 50 - 78°C bed). Prints always either curl up from the bed after 5-20 layers are deposited or delaminate in the middle of the print. I print directly on the heated glass bed, and have also tried various cooling fan settings.\n\nDoes anyone have good settings (Slic3r) to use with this stuff? Or any other advice for getting a successful print?\n\",JASON HOMER,\"I know the original user has probably found an answer to their question by now, but I'll add my 2 cents for the benefit of others who come across this. \n\nMy experience with Hatchbox has been that the walls and top layers were looking good at 200°C, but when I started stress testing the parts to their fail points I noticed that the internals were just a fibrous mess with no structural integrity. \n\nSo I started increasing the temperature in increments of 10°C and found that at 210°C it improved, and at 220°C there was good layer adhesion. At 230°C layer adhesion was absolutely beautiful, but it begins to get a little too melty. I have settled at 220°C for my machine. \n\nKeep in mind that everyone's printers are going to be slightly different - hotends, fan setup, even the thermistor could have varied resistance from one machine to another causing incorrect readouts on temps. That's why you have to tinker and find what works well for you and your machine. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n1103,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,B Hendricks,3.618048892289167,5.928426788328252,3.507933925167123,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.265283966335819,Wanhao Duplicator i3 ABS settings,\"I am looking to others who have successfully printed in ABS using a Wanhao Duplicator i3. \n\nI have tried and get a lot of warping and delamination. I tried putting a large box over the printer which did help with the warping some but I am still getting some layer separation. I used 235 °C for the extruder and 100 °C for the bed. I am printing at 40 mm/s and 0.2 mm layer height. \n\nIf someone has ABS and PETG settings for this printer, your help would be appreciated.\n\",Jorge Cuevas,\"I am an official Wanhao Distributor\n\nBy experience I can recommend you to print with this settings:\n\n\nExtruder 230 °C \nHeated Bed 65 °C\nHave a glass surface\nUse hairspray over the glass\nContinue to enclose the printer or at least put it where there is almost no wind\nPrint at 45 mm/s\n\n\nNote that this settings vary a lot depending on humidity and other factors related to where you are printing, so it would be very useful to know where in the globe are you experimenting.\n\nAlso note that humidity is very very bad for 3D Printing Filaments so keep them sealed while not using them.\n\nPlease do comment if you have any more doubts.\n\",3.0411126502294303,0.0\n1103,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,B Hendricks,3.618048892289167,5.928426788328252,3.507933925167123,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.265283966335819,Wanhao Duplicator i3 ABS settings,\"I am looking to others who have successfully printed in ABS using a Wanhao Duplicator i3. \n\nI have tried and get a lot of warping and delamination. I tried putting a large box over the printer which did help with the warping some but I am still getting some layer separation. I used 235 °C for the extruder and 100 °C for the bed. I am printing at 40 mm/s and 0.2 mm layer height. \n\nIf someone has ABS and PETG settings for this printer, your help would be appreciated.\n\",Nicole Zeckner,\"I've had hit and miss success, but nothing I would consider great. I was using Hatchbox ABS with the extruder at 230 °C and the bed at 65 °C and a homemade enclosure. \n\nOne thing that did help was making sure the HVAC vents near the printer were closed. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n1113,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,John Sensebe,2.528907649931287,3.3621123551116554,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Slicer/Printer Origin,\"I am very close to buying a 3D printer and have started to do some preliminary design work from the things I'd like to make, but I have a question: Which corner of the print bed corresponds to the origin (0,0,0) in slicer software? Is this the same across slicers and printers?\n\nThe reason I ask this is because of the difficulty some have in removing items from the bed. It seems to me like I'd want to print small items closer to the front of the printer to make access easier, but it looks like most slicer hosts only show a box representing the build volume with no real indication of what's \"\"front\"\".\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"Depending on what kind of printer you have, the build table origin and slicer origin (0,0) are usually either the front left corner, or the center of the build plate. This can be changed by the end-user in most open-source printers. There is no standard or requirement for a particular origin location. The important thing is merely that the slicer and printer coordinate systems match, so parts actually come out where your slicer thinks they should. \n\nIn practice, it's usually quite easy to tell what's \"\"front\"\" in your slicer's build volume. When you open the program, the bed usually appears as it does when you stand in front of your printer. It is rarely an issue. \n\nIn terms of difficulty removing prints from the bed, a removable build plate is an excellent solution. Plastic has a higher coefficient of thermal expansion than most build plate materials (like glass), so throwing the print+plate in your freezer will generate large separation forces and help remove the part for you. Non-removable build surfaces are a deal-breaker for most serious 3D printer users I know. Either don't buy such a printer, or add a removable plate yourself. \n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n1113,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,John Sensebe,2.528907649931287,3.3621123551116554,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Slicer/Printer Origin,\"I am very close to buying a 3D printer and have started to do some preliminary design work from the things I'd like to make, but I have a question: Which corner of the print bed corresponds to the origin (0,0,0) in slicer software? Is this the same across slicers and printers?\n\nThe reason I ask this is because of the difficulty some have in removing items from the bed. It seems to me like I'd want to print small items closer to the front of the printer to make access easier, but it looks like most slicer hosts only show a box representing the build volume with no real indication of what's \"\"front\"\".\n\",nscan,\"Normally the home position of the printer is the front left corner of the bed. The slicing software will ask you where this is so you can than position your object anywhere on the bed. The slicing software will make all the necessary adjustments for you. You normally would print the object in the middle of the bed, especially when heated, so it would be the most consistent in temperature. \n\nPersonally, I have more of an issue keeping the object stuck to the bed than getting it off. Once the bed cools, the objects are easy to pop off. My experience using PLA and a glue stick. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1281,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,John Sensebe,2.1782824847157594,4.222345137690479,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,Creating positives for a food-safe silicone mold: safe?,\"First, a little background. A couple of years ago, I was researching making my own candy, and I came across this page: Lego brick shaped gummy candies, describing how to use real Lego bricks as a positive to make silicone molds for Lego brick shaped candy. Now that I have a 3D printer, and inspired by the usual description of ABS filament (\"\"It's the same plastic used to make Lego bricks\"\") it occurs to me that I can now make any positive I want.\n\nThe question is, would that be safe? I know the filament I'm using is not food safe, but if I create positives for a food safe silicone mold, would toxins leech into the mold? And if so, is there a barrier I can use to prevent this, such as some kind of coating?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"In principle, ABS is safe for contact with (cold or room-temperature) food. The two main concerns specific to 3D printing are, assuming you start with a filament that is not itself contaminated:\n\n\nPores and holes in the printed part which may harbor bacteria\nImpurities introduced into the plastic during the printing process\n\n\nI doubt that the silicone mold will capture the pores and holes with sufficient detail to be of any concern (it certainly won't capture the internal structure, only the surface).\n\nThat leaves us with 2. It has been noted that brass nozzles contain trace amounts of lead. This lead can contaminate the printed part, which may in turn contaminate your mold, which may in turn contaminate your food. I don't think this is of realistic concern, since we're looking at trace amounts of trace amounts of lead. The nozzle might also have burnt plastic stuck to it (which might be carcinogenic) so you should make sure to do the print with a very clean nozzle and at a temperature that is not too high.\n\nABS is food safe for contact with cold or room-temperature food. It is however not food safe for contact with hot food, because at higher temperatures the food may leach certain chemicals out of the plastic. Your application is one of low temperature, but silicone is not food and might perhaps leach some contaminants out of the plastic, regardless of temperature. However, this concern is not specific to 3D printing, as it applies to the method of making moulds out of Lego bricks as well. Therefore, making moulds from 3D printed positives does not appear to be different in a food safety perspective from making them out of LEGO blocks.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n1281,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,John Sensebe,2.1782824847157594,4.222345137690479,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,Creating positives for a food-safe silicone mold: safe?,\"First, a little background. A couple of years ago, I was researching making my own candy, and I came across this page: Lego brick shaped gummy candies, describing how to use real Lego bricks as a positive to make silicone molds for Lego brick shaped candy. Now that I have a 3D printer, and inspired by the usual description of ABS filament (\"\"It's the same plastic used to make Lego bricks\"\") it occurs to me that I can now make any positive I want.\n\nThe question is, would that be safe? I know the filament I'm using is not food safe, but if I create positives for a food safe silicone mold, would toxins leech into the mold? And if so, is there a barrier I can use to prevent this, such as some kind of coating?\n\",Kevin,\"The plastic is not quite your main concern (though it still can be). You should worry about the cracks and crevices in FDM prints. Bacteria loves to hide there. For most people, this is the first concern when it comes to \"\"Is X 3D printed food-safe?\"\" If the end product is a hard material, you should sand or smooth your print to prevent the layer crevices from appearing in the end use product. Also consider food-safe epoxies for filling in gaps. If the end product is made of a flexible silicone, then this is less of a concern.\n\nABS is not food safe. PLA as a material is considered food safe by the 3D printing community, but I have not seen a scientific study on this. However, many filament makers do not extrude pure PLA. Therefore, the answer to your question is that it depends on the manufacturer. You will need to contact the company to know what is in the filament first. Beware of untrustworthy manufacturers that claim food safety without backing that up.\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1117,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,acs,1.0891412423578797,3.1093304690984147,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Alternative 3d molding techniques at home,\"i have seen formbox http://golem13.fr/formbox/ and it uses heat and many materials like PVC. Is there any way to do this with paper or paper derivatives(like egg carton)? If the answer is yes, how can i do that?\n\",darth pixel,\"Forming kinda blister out of paper is possible but not the way it's formed out of plastic. Paper is not elastic, it's bendable but not strechable. It's the issue of how cellulose fibers are formed and how are they entangled. \n\nAnyway - you can create a form out of wet mixed paper pulp. Wrap it around your model and then wait until it's dry. It will form amazingly stiff form. You can do it also out of wet handkerchiefs.\n\nYou could build a vacuum machine as in the formbox to squeeze the paper pulp the get water out of the material but the cover should be done out of light silicone film so it would be treated by vacuum.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n1119,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mithun Kalan,2.8153892694839717,4.961688697370604,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.878685800062712,Glue sticks for print bed,\"I would like to get a green tombow PITS adhesive stick. On Rakuten, it costs \\$1 (USD). On my 3d printer's (XYZ) retailer's site, it costs \\$20 (USD). Due to the costs and the fact that Rakuten does not ship to my country, I need an alternative. I am currently using Davinci 1.0 for my bed, which I believe is a glass bed. So, my questions are: \n\n\nWhat glue is best for PLA plastic?\nWhat glue is best for ABS plastic?\nIs there a glue that functions with both types of plastic?\n\n\",darth pixel,\"As mentioned by Matt - PVA glues work perfect for both filaments.\nIt works well because it's softening temperature is between 45..85C so it's more or less temperature of HB.\n\nAdvantages:\n\n\ncheap\neasy to apply on HB\ncan be applied on cold as same as on hot HB\nsticks model very well\nnon toxic, no solvent, odorless\neasy to wash (from HB) (just wash it under water or scrape with sharp tool)\nworks very well even with old and dry layer of glue\n\n\nDisadvantages:\n\n\nquite hard to detach model (I use paper knife)\nfirst layer is not glass-perfect\nafter detaching, model is a bit sticky (first layer)\n\n\nI use Scotch Glue Stick by 3M. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1119,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mithun Kalan,2.8153892694839717,4.961688697370604,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.878685800062712,Glue sticks for print bed,\"I would like to get a green tombow PITS adhesive stick. On Rakuten, it costs \\$1 (USD). On my 3d printer's (XYZ) retailer's site, it costs \\$20 (USD). Due to the costs and the fact that Rakuten does not ship to my country, I need an alternative. I am currently using Davinci 1.0 for my bed, which I believe is a glass bed. So, my questions are: \n\n\nWhat glue is best for PLA plastic?\nWhat glue is best for ABS plastic?\nIs there a glue that functions with both types of plastic?\n\n\",Matt,\"Most PVA glue works well for both (Poly Vinyl Acetate).\nThere are different brands in every country.\n\",0.0,0.0\n1120,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,khaverim,2.528907649931287,6.319651150737723,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,3D printing using OctoPrint on Linux Ubuntu desktop,\"I'm trying to set up OctoPrint on my Linux Ubuntu 16.04 desktop to work with my Micro3D printer. The printer works fine on Mac and Windows:\n\n\nI've installed OctoPrint with the M3D Fio Plugin Manager. I can see the files in ~/.octoprint/ fine and I can even turn the printer fan on/off, move the extruder, etc. through OctoPrint:\n\n\nBut when I press the blue \"\"Print button\"\", there is no response. Also the files in the \"\"upload\"\" section are greyed out. Must I download a slicing program or something? I'm new with 3D printing in general but not with Linux. Grateful for help!\n\",thopiekar,\"For me it sounds like you've missed to install the CuraEngine for slicing, but I'm only guessing, as I'm not using OctoPrint at all.\n\nInstead I'm using Cura directly and save gcode to a SD or use USB printing for quick/small prints.\n\nRegrads ;)\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n1120,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,khaverim,2.528907649931287,6.319651150737723,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,3D printing using OctoPrint on Linux Ubuntu desktop,\"I'm trying to set up OctoPrint on my Linux Ubuntu 16.04 desktop to work with my Micro3D printer. The printer works fine on Mac and Windows:\n\n\nI've installed OctoPrint with the M3D Fio Plugin Manager. I can see the files in ~/.octoprint/ fine and I can even turn the printer fan on/off, move the extruder, etc. through OctoPrint:\n\n\nBut when I press the blue \"\"Print button\"\", there is no response. Also the files in the \"\"upload\"\" section are greyed out. Must I download a slicing program or something? I'm new with 3D printing in general but not with Linux. Grateful for help!\n\",khaverim,\"I just discovered that OctoPrint only reads .gcode files for printing (apparently, unless you have a slicing software embedded in it), so I installed Slic3r separately, and ran\n\n./slic3r mystlfile.stl\n\n\nto generate a .gcode file (in the executable directory).\n\nThen I uploaded the .gcode file to OctoPrint and things got moving.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n1316,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,khaverim,3.452496054252184,4.936439343979863,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,M3D filament not extruding well (anymore),\"I use OctoPrint on an Ubuntu system with a M3D printer.\n\nMidway through a recent print, the filament just stopped extruding although the motor-functions of the printer were proceeding fine. Since then, every print I attempt has trouble extruding proper amounts of filament. It's always not enough. The output is stringy and not cohesive.\n\nI'm thinking there may simply be a clog in the extruder and wondering the safest way to remove it.\n\nThe weird thing, though, is that when I use manual control and extrude at, say, 220C, the filament comes out fine.\n\nYou can see the raft definitely isn't printing right. Way too little output:\n\n\n\",J. Roibal - BlockchainEng,\"Suggested remedies for 3-D printers which are not extruding required amount of filament:\n\n\nFirst, check the temperature of the extruder. Try 220-225C to see if that improves the problem.\nThe second step is to increase the flow of the filament (increase mm/sec) for extruder speed.\nA final step is to increase distance between extruder and base-plate. If the extruder is too close to the baseplate, there may not be enough space for the filament to begin the printing process.\n\n\nAnother possible source of lack of material extrusion is a clogged extruder. To solve this problem:\n\n\nRetract filament using jog control in software\nHeat extruder 20-30 degrees Celsius above normal extrusion temperature \nDisassemble Extruder, use small thin wire to remove blockage (guitar wire as suggested below)\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n1316,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,khaverim,3.452496054252184,4.936439343979863,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,M3D filament not extruding well (anymore),\"I use OctoPrint on an Ubuntu system with a M3D printer.\n\nMidway through a recent print, the filament just stopped extruding although the motor-functions of the printer were proceeding fine. Since then, every print I attempt has trouble extruding proper amounts of filament. It's always not enough. The output is stringy and not cohesive.\n\nI'm thinking there may simply be a clog in the extruder and wondering the safest way to remove it.\n\nThe weird thing, though, is that when I use manual control and extrude at, say, 220C, the filament comes out fine.\n\nYou can see the raft definitely isn't printing right. Way too little output:\n\n\n\",Alex,\"You might have a case of clogged nozzle. You can check this easily by lifting the Z axis and running the extrusion motor. If it's grinding on filament or you notice extruded plastic is curling or going out slow, it's probably partial or total clog.\n\nI have had the latter variant happen to myself recently, with the same symptoms as yours. Fixing it involved disassembly of the hotend and cleaning the clog manually using jet lighter (to heat up the nozzle) and guitar string to pull out clogged PLA.\n\nYou might have some other options available:\n\n\nTry pushing the filament through hotend by hand, it might clear the clog.\nOther variant I've heard of is heating up the extruder to 130-150°C (PLA) and just yanking out the filament, and hopefully clog along with it. I wouldn't recommend this if you don't know what you're doing, as it might damage the printer.\n\n\nIn my case things that were causing the clog were the big retraction distance and temperature being set too high.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4120,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,khaverim,2.1782824847157594,5.381709012904353,0.0,5.199501240805782,3.548335113978322,2.104288080884247,Best method to make dissolvable supports?,\"Sometimes supports are very difficult to remove (physically) when I print with ABS. The image below, from Thingiverse - MOF-5 unit cell, is after significant effort to remove the yellow ABS supports from a black ABS model.\n\n\n\nI've learned about polyvinylalcohol (PVA) as a 3D-printing filament which is soluble in water. It seems like a great option for dual-extruder printers, where you can print the model with ABS or PLA and the supports with PVA, then throw the whole thing in water and let the supports dissolve.\n\nI've considered other options since PVA is ~4x more expensive than ABS.\n\nDoing a PLA print with ABS supports, followed by dissolution of ABS with acetone, is my best idea currently.\n\nHas anyone found success with another option? \n\",cmm,\"I believe this is on-topic because it describes my experience using PVA in a Prusa i3m3-MMU2 machine.\n\nMy experience has not been good. I started with a new spool, and dried it between attempts.\n\nThe problems may be specific to the Prusa MMU2 printing process, but some are intrinsic in PVA, or at least the PVA filament I've been trying, PrimaSelect PVA+ (link is for reference only. I have no skin in this game.) Aspects that may carry forward to non-MMU2 machines include: \n\n\nfilament is very stringy, \nfilament is friable, and crumbles into the drive gear,\nfilament does not adhere to a PEI bed. I had to use Aqua Net hair spray.\nfilament does not stick well to itself. Stacks of support will have internal defects, which may affect the desired print.\nfilament is very hygroscopic. With the MANY manual interventions needed with the MMU2, it may help to bake the filament in the middle of a multi-day print. \n\n\nPerhaps unique to the Prusa i3m3-MMU2 machine, these lead to some specific problems:\n\n\nthe filament may be smaller diameter than 1.75, and it is sometimes\nnot detected by the filament-presence detectors. This not only leads to failures, but it may also lead to large blobs of filament extruded into the purge towers, which leads to \"\"crashes\"\" and compounds the next problem. This may also be because I have too much tension between the drive gears -- something to check.\nthe purge towers are weak where layers of the PVA overlay each other. Purge towers may break during printing, which ruins the print.\nthe MMU2 filament drive gears are frequently fouled by PVA filament bits. I haven't found, though, that cleaning them reduces feed problems.\nthe MMU2 system feeds filament through PTFE tubing. Over time, perhaps with humidity, the friction of the filament passing through the tubes increases, which makes the feed problems worse.\n\n\nThis is not a negative review of the filament itself, or of the Prusa i3m3-MMU2. I may be doing something wrong, and would love to know better. I am quite happy with the MMU2, and have tuned it so that it works very well with PLA filament. This is the result of launching into soluble support, which is a feature I strongly hope to use reliably.\n\nI am still exploring alternatives.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4120,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,khaverim,2.1782824847157594,5.381709012904353,0.0,5.199501240805782,3.548335113978322,2.104288080884247,Best method to make dissolvable supports?,\"Sometimes supports are very difficult to remove (physically) when I print with ABS. The image below, from Thingiverse - MOF-5 unit cell, is after significant effort to remove the yellow ABS supports from a black ABS model.\n\n\n\nI've learned about polyvinylalcohol (PVA) as a 3D-printing filament which is soluble in water. It seems like a great option for dual-extruder printers, where you can print the model with ABS or PLA and the supports with PVA, then throw the whole thing in water and let the supports dissolve.\n\nI've considered other options since PVA is ~4x more expensive than ABS.\n\nDoing a PLA print with ABS supports, followed by dissolution of ABS with acetone, is my best idea currently.\n\nHas anyone found success with another option? \n\",Dustin Wheeler,\"I've had great success printing with HIPS (high-impact polystyrene) as a support for both PLA and ABS. Most sites recommend it for use with ABS because the materials melt at similar temperatures and work best with heated beds, but I've had good luck using it as a support material with PLA on a bed at 60°C. It doesn't stick as well to PLA as it does to ABS, so supports tend to peel away very readily. The downside is that, if you need the support to anchor your print at all, it doesn’t really stick well enough to accomplish this task. For that, you must pair HIPS with ABS. \n\nWhen you print with ABS or have complicated interwoven support structures, HIPS can be dissolved with D-limonene, a citrus based cleaner sold under various names like Citrisolv (others exist), or with dipentene (a mixture of L and D-limonene that doesn't smell as pleasant). \n\nRegarding cost: I've found HIPS to be slightly more expensive than PLA/ABS, but only 1.5x the cost, not 4x like PVA. Additionally, it isn't hydroscopic in the same way as PVA so it lasts longer out of the package. Since you're using it as support, you also tend to use far less filament than you do for the main print (sparse support structures as opposed to solid print structures). \n\nWater-soluble alternatives: There are a few proprietary blends of polymers sold by the big commercial printer manufacturers (3DSystems, Stratasys) that only work in their machines… these are generally soluble in basic solutions (water + sodium hydroxide or sodium carbonate). These are usually very expensive and you'd have to rewind the filament on a spool, as they come in cartridges made for specific printers. You'd also have to experiment with the right build conditions and solution blends to remove the material afterward. Airwolf has a support material called Hydrofill that purports to be soluble in plain water… I'm not sure how this is different from standard PVA, though I assume it is different. Hopefully more companies will work on developing water-soluble options to help us keep the 3D printing world full of renewable, less-environmentally-harmful options for filaments (both print and support). \n\nUpdate:\n\nUltimaker now has a material called Ultimaker Breakaway. After using it for a few models, it works remarkably well, allowing me, for the first time, to print nice rounded surfaces on the bases of my prints. It really does just break away from the surface, much like HIPS but without the lack of adhesion problems between HIPS and PLA. \n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n1127,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FoamyGuy,2.528907649931287,3.58733573019168,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,What setting do I need to change to get rid of this gap between the shells and the inside?,\"I've noticed that some of my prints (mostly square-ish objects) are coming out with gaps between the outside shells and the inner parts. This gap is visible even in the 2D sliced preview of the layers so I think it must have something to do with slicing settings, but I'm at a loss for what I need to change to fix it.\n\nSee below for images of the issue. On the orange piece near the right hand side you can see light shining through the gap. The black cube has it at the top, though it's not deep enough to let light through like with the orange one. There is also an image of the layer preview which shows the same gap.\n\nI have a Rostock Max v2 (stock hot end). I am using Matter control using mostly stock settings, I've tweaked around layer height, speed, and temp but I don't think those are the cause.\n\n.\n\nImages of the issue:\n\n\n\n\n\",darth pixel,\"It's generally called infill overlap. \nIn terms of first layer it's good to set extrude rate to 120% or even more so infill will overlap perimeters and itself. There is also the issue of \"\"overlapping\"\" layers which is not managed by any specific parameter. it's the issue of layer thickness and HE temperature.\n\nUnfortunately Matter Control has kinda bug or at least an issue with extrude rate. If you set higher extrude rate then overlap will be automatically reduced in some way. So it's good to increase extrude rate manually during printing and then set it back to normal. this will cheat slicer.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n1130,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Catsunami,2.8153892694839717,4.199044916790343,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,What is causing these artifacts when the extruder moves in one direction?,\"I have a Prusa i3 that I am mostly happy with. However, I am seeing these strange artifacts when the extruder moves along one axis in one direction - in particular from the back of the printer towards the front. The extruded lines look uneven and the surface is quite rough, but only in that area and only while the extruder moves in that direction.\n\nHere is a recent print that shows this happen. The pieces were printed side by side, and both of them show this on the left hand side, while the right is okay.\n\n \n\nI am thinking maybe the extruder tip is slanted (not perpendicular to the bed), which causes some sort of scraping while extruding? What do you think?\n\",darth pixel,\"In case of such difference in printing in different directions you can check if;\n\n\nfor x and partially z axis\n\n\nfilament is blocked and cannot be pulled as it should\nspool is blocked\n\nfor x and y axis\n\n\nrods on which caret/HB is sliding are parallel\ntiming belt idlers are parallel and they are in a line\n\n\n\nShape of the nozzle or its perpendicularity should not be the case as it's hot and it wipes layer itself.\n\nYou can also check if it's not an issue of cooling fan. It can vibrate as such.\n\nEventually it could be an issue of cooling itself. Let's assume you have cooling fan at the back and it pushes air to the front then when caret moves from the front to the back then cooling time is longer than when the fan goes in opposite direction.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1135,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,GipsyD,2.1782824847157594,5.095479112329593,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,How to open .max files,\"I'm new to this forum. I need help opening a .max file a friend sent me. The thing is, I dont have Alias Maya. Well, Alias Maya that works anyway.\n\nIs there any other file openers that I can use? Or do I have to get Maya to open the file? I dont want to get download 1.3 Gb and discover that there is 15mb file opener. ;-)\n\nIs there a file converter maybe? That converts .max to, maybe .obj?\n\nMany thanks\n\",salomonderossi,\"You could try import it with blender. It's a free software which should be able to import the files.\n\nFirst thing is to go the the File->User Preferences->Add Ons tab. In the Import-Export section, enable the 3DS Add-on.\n\nAfter that you can export it to the desired format. Before exporting you must select the model/mesh you want to export. Otherwise nothing will be exported. The obj exporter is enabled by default in blender.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n1135,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,GipsyD,2.1782824847157594,5.095479112329593,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,How to open .max files,\"I'm new to this forum. I need help opening a .max file a friend sent me. The thing is, I dont have Alias Maya. Well, Alias Maya that works anyway.\n\nIs there any other file openers that I can use? Or do I have to get Maya to open the file? I dont want to get download 1.3 Gb and discover that there is 15mb file opener. ;-)\n\nIs there a file converter maybe? That converts .max to, maybe .obj?\n\nMany thanks\n\",GipsyD,\"I installed blender, and went to add ons, and saw the .3ds file plugin was already on. I then looked for my file and didnt see it. Any suggestions?\n\",0.0,0.0\n1144,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,GipsyD,2.1782824847157594,3.241349471920412,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How to enlarge a Sketchup Model,\"I have moved forward with the whole .max thing. Its on the back burner. But not as critical now. I have found a sketchup model of the model I want. But it is ridiculously small (0.17 m long by 0.10 m wide!). How do I enlarge it to fit my dimensions as a whole? \n\nThanks \n\",Sergei,\"Use Cura middle button in bottom\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n2750,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,GipsyD,1.0891412423578797,4.315875336275838,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How to split a model in SketchUp for printing,\"I have a file I want to print, but the problem is that the dimensions that came with the model are just too big to print. I used the Tape Measure Tool on SketchUp, and it came in at a whooping 5.56 meters. Is there a way to split the big model into smaller, printable sized models that can be reassembled after printing?\n\nThanks Again\n\",fred_dot_u,\"SketchUp is likely to not work well for you if your objective is to create a printable STL file in pieces. You would want to determine initially that the un-segmented model is manifold and 3d printer ready. Once that is determined, consider using an alternate program for your chop-up actions.\n\nYou do not specify the size of the printer you intend to use, but that is obviously a factor in the segmentation of the model.\n\nI have some experience with Meshmixer, which has an edit feature named \"\"plane cut\"\" which will do as you require. The plane is placed on the model and the options are selected to keep both pieces after the slice is performed.\n\nFor a huge model of the type you describe, one would hope you have access to a printer with a one meter print bed or larger, although such printers are rare and of course, expensive.\n\nMy printer has a 200 x 300 mm build plate, up to 200 mm high, which would entail substantial segmenting.\n\nIf your model is mostly a shell, your segments would have to have wall thickness. It would be best accomplished, again in Meshmixer, by using the hollow or shell features. Those are a bit more challenging to understand, but there are plenty of videos and tutorials specific to creating hollow shells from a solid model. Once the shell is created, segments would be managed easily enough.\n\nI suggested that your segments would \"\"have to have\"\" wall thickness, but it isn't a requirement. Solid segments would be like bricks and you may have a large number of rectangular solids that compose your model. Lego models are difficult or impossible to create with only an outer shell, so the interiors are often solid bricks, but 3d printers are a bit more flexible. Not using solid interiors would save money, of course.\n\nI envision a jigsaw puzzle in three dimensions. Taking a nearly six meter dimension and chopping it into 20 slices multiplied by width and height means a carton of 3d puzzle pieces. \n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n3189,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,GipsyD,2.8153892694839717,4.418870353816168,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Non-Heated Beds affect on 3D Prints,\"I'm looking to buy my first 3D Printer, on a tight budget of $250. Unfortunately, this printer that I found on Amazon comes with all the bells and whistles, except for a heated bed. \n\nI want to know if this would affect printing severely, as I have read that the plastic/ filament cools down rather quickly, and that it results in Printer \"\"fails\"\". \n\nI'm actually a bit nervous with this buy, as I don't want to spend $250 on a printer that produces 90% print fails.\n\nAn example of the printer I'm referring to is the Cube 3 Printer, Grey\nby 3D Systems.\n\",StarWind0,\"Yes. That said you can view it as an intro into 3d printing. Once you know you are really into it you can buy a higher end machine, or hunt craigslist / ebay / facebook groups for a used one.\n\nWhat the heated bed will allow you to do is print more than PLA, and certain formulations of no warp ABS. The Makerbot uses no heated bed, instead in addition to being PLA only it does what we call a raft. That said one of my 6 printers is a makerbot and it still gets warping if the print is on the edge of the plate. \n\nYou can also add a heated print bed later. If your electronics allow for it.\n\nThat said.. Just buy one with a heated bed? I know you can get one close to that price point. Heated beds cost 7 dollar. However as pointed out by Tom, there are other costs such as a more powerful heated bed. Still one should be able to get a printer in that price range or close to it with a heated bed.\n\nTo be more clear. You will not have a 90% fail rate if you use PLA. However your prints will often have some heat warping and you will HAVE to use a raft. \n\nfrom \nhttp://www.reprap.org/wiki/Glossary\n\n\n Raft\n A technique used to prevent warping. Parts are built on top of a 'raft' of disposable material instead of directly on the build surface. The raft is larger than the part and so has more adhesion. Rarely used with heated build surfaces. For the small area models, it is very useful to prevent warping via adding a raft for the model before slicing it. It can also help with with precision parts by removing the slight first few layer distortion caused by the heated bed.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3189,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,GipsyD,2.8153892694839717,4.418870353816168,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Non-Heated Beds affect on 3D Prints,\"I'm looking to buy my first 3D Printer, on a tight budget of $250. Unfortunately, this printer that I found on Amazon comes with all the bells and whistles, except for a heated bed. \n\nI want to know if this would affect printing severely, as I have read that the plastic/ filament cools down rather quickly, and that it results in Printer \"\"fails\"\". \n\nI'm actually a bit nervous with this buy, as I don't want to spend $250 on a printer that produces 90% print fails.\n\nAn example of the printer I'm referring to is the Cube 3 Printer, Grey\nby 3D Systems.\n\",Greenonline,\"At the risk of an opinionated answer...\n\nI would say that if money is tight, then get the correct printer in the first instance, en lieu of purchasing one that ends up giving you unsatisfactory prints, and that you then have to spend even more money on, in order to get prints of an acceptable quality. \n\nA heatbed, while not essential, is, IMHO, certainly desirable.\n\nJust a thought - Instead of purchasing a ready built printer on Amazon, have you considered building your own RepRap? If you look at a Bill Of Materials (BOM), and then purchase the parts individually from China, then not only will you end up with a good/better spec printer, for the same price, but you would also understand the mechanics a lot better. A good, and thorough, understanding the printer is essential for repairs, when (not if) the printer goes wrong (and believe me, it will). For a little over £200 I have managed to source all of the parts separately for a P3Steel v4 printer, with Kysan stepper motors, and an aluminium 200 mm x 300 mm heatbed. \n\nNote that I knew nothing about 3D printing, three months ago, so you do not need to be an expert, just do plenty of research beforehand.\n\nFWIW, my aluminium MK3 heatbed was £19.99.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3199,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,GipsyD,2.528907649931287,3.442720459815422,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Does XYZPrinting software allow the creation of rafts when printing?,\"Ironing out all my worries before buying my first 3D printer.\n\nI'm looking at getting the da Vinci miniMaker 3D printer as my first 3D printer, but it doesn't come with a heated bed. \n\nOn my previous question about heating beds effect on a print, I was told that I need to use a raft to compensate for the absence of a heated bed. What I want to know is, does the software that comes with the printer allow the creation of rafts whilst/prior to printing? Or will it create rafts if need be?\n\",GipsyD,\"Ok. After watching some YouTube Videos, I would take it that the abovementioned software does include the option to create rafts when printing a model.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n3244,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,GipsyD,2.1782824847157594,4.660710879179117,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Is a heated bed necessary if printing with PLA?,\"I'm looking at getting this printer, the da Vinci 1.0w 3D Printer, very soon as my first printer. Since this is an enclosed printer, from what I can tell from the pictures, and given that it is a PLA Printer (I'm assuming that is the filament it prints with), is a heated bed necessary? Especially since this printer doesn't have one? Or should I look at a ABS printer instead?\n\nI plan on printing 1:1 scale props.\n\",Sneaky,\"There is problem with sticking to bed without preheat, PLA is possible to print on Kapton tape with no-heated bed. Or there are other tapes dedicated for printing. da Vinci 1.0w is good for small models with PLA. ABS is not possible with no heated bed.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4078,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,GipsyD,1.0891412423578797,3.1447983993774047,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Does the Da Vinci line of 3D printers come with a heated bed?,\"I'm now currently looking at getting my next 3D printer, after my success with the Prusa i3 Reprap Build, and I have had my eyes on the Da Vinci line of printers for some time now. \n\nWhat I want to know is, does this line of 3D printers include a heated bed? Or does it come with a stock aluminum bed?\n\",BrrrIce,\"Yes. The Da Vinci Duo 2 (most common one) has a heated bed.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n7519,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,GipsyD,2.8153892694839717,4.11229885270223,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,\"Printing refusing to print, citing non-genuine cartridges?\",\"So I just got a Da-Vinci 3-in-1 Junior Pro 3D Printer, and was excited to start printing my first model.\n\nWhen I open my .STL File in the XYZWare that comes with the printer, and click print, it says that the cartridge inserted into my printer in not genuine, and that it won't print until I order a genuine cartridge. What is interesting is that the cartridge loaded into this printer came with the printer itself, so it is genuine.\n\nIs there something I am doing wrong? Here is a picture of the cartridge in my printer -->\n\n\n\nA Google search about this issue doesn't come up with any results that are of any use to me.\n\",GipsyD,\"I managed to troubleshoot my printer's dilemma, rather quickly I might add.\n\nIt turns out that the printer's firmware that was shipped with the printer was too old for XYZWare to use. My theory was that the firmware was trying to use a sensor that wasn't on the printer to begin with, and therefore was throwing out the issue of non-genuine cartridges.\n\nI updated the firmware on the Printer, and know it works just fine without any hitch!\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n7519,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,GipsyD,2.8153892694839717,4.11229885270223,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,\"Printing refusing to print, citing non-genuine cartridges?\",\"So I just got a Da-Vinci 3-in-1 Junior Pro 3D Printer, and was excited to start printing my first model.\n\nWhen I open my .STL File in the XYZWare that comes with the printer, and click print, it says that the cartridge inserted into my printer in not genuine, and that it won't print until I order a genuine cartridge. What is interesting is that the cartridge loaded into this printer came with the printer itself, so it is genuine.\n\nIs there something I am doing wrong? Here is a picture of the cartridge in my printer -->\n\n\n\nA Google search about this issue doesn't come up with any results that are of any use to me.\n\",0scar,\"A quick search on the internet showed that your experiences are shared by others.\n\nApparently, it has something to do with a faulty chip or the software. \n\nFrom this thread:\n\n\n I had the same thing, the cop on the underside of the cartridge wasn’t\n programmed properly, if you have the latest firmware update and it\n still doesn’t work contact the seller and they should send you a\n replacement chip\n\n\n\n\n\n I had this happen 2x. It ended up being that I had xyzware open.\n Xyzware needs to restart in order to detect the new serial number of\n the filament.\n\n\nYou could ask for support from your supplier or restart the XYZ software.\n\nYou could also hack the NFC chip that is inside the spool. (DISCLAIMER: Do it at your own risk!)\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n1136,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sidney,3.267423727073639,3.45160860920807,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Are there any services that offer 3D scanning?,\"So, have a plastic car part I want to duplicate because the driver side part is broken (I have the passenger side part) and It isn't sold anymore. It's a small piece that would be an excellent candidate for a 3D printed replacement. I know there are companies I can send a 3D model to that will happily print it for me, but I also need to create a 3D model from the part. Is there a company or service that I could mail the part to that would return it along with a 3D model of it?\n\",tbm0115,\"The right Google (or other) search should do the trick. I've provided 3D Printing services via 3D Hubs and MakeXYZ and some people do provide 3D scanning services. If you can't find 3D Scanning, you could try talking to a local machine shop. They might have the tools to be able to reverse-engineer the object, or know another place that can.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n1143,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FrankL,2.1782824847157594,3.873224462884129,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Print paper or cellulose - any recyclable filament?,\"I know there is a 3d printing technique, where sheet of papers are cut and glued. Like the ones Staples has in their stores. But this sort of paper isnt recyclable, because of the heavy use of glue.\n\nIs anywhere filament available, which is made of cellulose or other recyclable and bio-degradable material? Or do you know if research is going on in this area?\n\nedit: added bio-degradable\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"Filament made of Polylactic acid (PLA) is usually made of biological materials (such as corn), and can therefore be considered bio-degradable in most cases.\n\nWhether the filament is 100% bio-degradable (and non-toxic for the surroundings) will depend on the specific formula used by each individual filament manufacturer. (Many manufacturers include various additives to achieve particular effects, such as glow-in-the-dark, metallic finish or extra strengh.)\n\nWoodfill PLA-like filament might be of extra interest to you, not only because it typically is bio-degradable, but also because it will give you the look and feel of being bio-degradable. \n\nHope that helps!\n\nPS: there are multiple other filament types that are either recyclable, bio-degradable, or both, although PLA might be the most commonly available of them all.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n1143,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FrankL,2.1782824847157594,3.873224462884129,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Print paper or cellulose - any recyclable filament?,\"I know there is a 3d printing technique, where sheet of papers are cut and glued. Like the ones Staples has in their stores. But this sort of paper isnt recyclable, because of the heavy use of glue.\n\nIs anywhere filament available, which is made of cellulose or other recyclable and bio-degradable material? Or do you know if research is going on in this area?\n\nedit: added bio-degradable\n\",user2204222,\"Check Green-TEC by extrudr.eu is made from lignin (wood)\nor perhaps Algix Dura. They are both bio degradeable.\nGreen-TEC ist my favorite because of less warping and fast printing.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1262,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FrankL,2.528907649931287,5.343287201348044,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Slicer that exports vectors or pics for every slice,\"For a large scale project, I need a slicer which gives me the slices as image (BMP or vector). \nI have a 3d model and want to assemble it manually using large printouts on cardboard. For this I need my 3d model somehow sliced into 2mm layers, get a silhouette of the outline for every layer and print it in cardboard. Later all cardboard layer will be cutted manually and glued in the right order.\n\nDoes somebody know a slicer, which gives me as output images for every slice?\nOr any different idea how to geht my large cardboard 3d model?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Your approach is one of many and you may find that Slic3r will do as you require.\n\nThere's a direct reference to generating SVG files (vector) at this link:\nhttp://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/svg-output\n\nYou may have to create a printer profile based on irrational figures when compared to conventional 3d printers. Your 2mm \"\"layer height\"\" should be matched in the printer settings to an appropriate nozzle diameter for the desired result.\n\nYou may find also that Simplify3d will create such files, but it's not a free program.\n\nAn alternative to 3d printer slicing software would be to use OpenSCAD to import your model (or create it directly in code) and use the Projection command to generate the individual layers. I've done this and found it works well, but the process to learning the necessary code was time consuming, as I'm not a programmer.\n\nYou would also want to incorporate some form of registration in your model, cylindrical holes or external tabs to enable you to properly align each cardboard layer.\n\nIf you have a makerspace nearby or know someone with a suitably sized laser cutter, you may also save some labor cutting each panel, as the laser will accept the vector files easily.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n1150,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,hamza,4.356564969431519,5.553469124165747,5.261900887750683,6.034324953675596,4.240216107868139,2.104288080884247,Open Source 3D scanning,\"I am trying to make a structured light 3D scanner using single camera, light projector and a turntable.\n\nAfter days on Google I did not find any reliable open source project which I can get to work. SLStudio really seemed a good choice but did not compile properly. \n\nI was wondering if anyone knows a good open source which they have used with the same kind of setup? Any help would be really appreciated. I am blocked here.\n\",amra,\"I did find only one 3d scanner which uses structured light. There is many projects using a laser diode. And these systems are completely opensource.\n\nStructured Light\n\nStructured Light 3D Scanning by kylemcdonald\n\n\nhttp://www.instructables.com/id/Structured-Light-3D-Scanning/?ALLSTEPS\n\n\n\n\nLaser diode\n\nSardauscan\n\n\nhttp://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-30-laser/?ALLSTEPS\nhttps://github.com/Sardau/Sardauscan\nhttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:702470\n\n\n\n\nATLAS 3D Scanner\n\n\nhttp://www.freelss.org\nhttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1280901\nhttps://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1545315380/atlas-3d-the-3d-scanner-you-print-and-build-yourse/posts/1475722\n\n\n\n\nCiclop\n\n\nhttp://diwo.bq.com/en/tag/ciclop/\nhttps://github.com/bqlabs/ciclop\n\n\n\n\n3D(ollar) Scanner\n\n\nhttps://hackaday.io/project/2021-3dollar-scanner\nhttp://www.instructables.com/id/Lets-cook-3D-scanner-based-on-Arduino-and-Proces/?ALLSTEPS\n\n\n\n\n\"\"Super Make Something\"\" Tutorial On How To Build a Simple 3D Scanner\n\n\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-qeD2__yK4c\nhttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1413891\nhttp://diy3dprinting.blogspot.de/2016/04/super-make-something-tutorial-on-how-to.html\n\n\n\n\nDifferent method\n\n$15 3D scanner consists of a tub of milk and a smartphone\n\nInteresting idea of using milk and phone.\n\n\nhttp://www.instructables.com/id/GotMesh-the-Most-Cheap-and-Simplistic-3D-Scanner/\nhttp://www.3ders.org/articles/20160423-this-3d-scanner-consists-of-a-tub-of-milk-and-a-smartphone.html\n\n\n\n\",3.6340916038470805,0.0\n1150,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,hamza,4.356564969431519,5.553469124165747,5.261900887750683,6.034324953675596,4.240216107868139,2.104288080884247,Open Source 3D scanning,\"I am trying to make a structured light 3D scanner using single camera, light projector and a turntable.\n\nAfter days on Google I did not find any reliable open source project which I can get to work. SLStudio really seemed a good choice but did not compile properly. \n\nI was wondering if anyone knows a good open source which they have used with the same kind of setup? Any help would be really appreciated. I am blocked here.\n\",hamza,\"I got some really useful resources here but I got rid of structured light approach because of lesser resources.\n\nI used VisualSFM(.exe) , VisualSFM(source) with the turntable for the purpose and got some pretty neat results. Works well and easy to use. \n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n1151,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Cameron Stark,2.528907649931287,5.330079745452713,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,FlashForge Creator Pro Tool Failure! Temp limit reached,\"After printing successfully for a while I received an error saying:\n\nTool 0 Failure!\nTemp limit reached \nShutdown or restart.\n\nThe front panel is not responsive and doesn't allow the printer to print at all. If I quickly go to monitor mode it shows tool 0 temperature in the ~700°C range; which made me think it was the thermocouple.On the motherboard I unplugged the thermocouple and the same error occurred, I then swapped the other thermocouple and put it in its place and got the same error except the tool 1 temperature showed \"\"NC\"\". \n\nI had recently taken apart the extruders to change out the nozzles and thought I had possibly smashed the wires when putting it together but now I don't think that's the case. \n\nI'm on the phone with FlashForge's tech support but wanted to see if someone else has had the same experience for cross reference.\n\nWhat's the underlying issue? Is there a quick solution to this that can get me printing right away (I'm under a deadline)? What's the end solution?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"It sounds like a failed TC amp chip. But we need to rule out some other stuff. \n\nSome important facts about the Creator Pro temp sensor:\n\n\nIf you smash and short the two thermocouple wires together, the printer will simply read room temp.\nIf you cut or disconnect the thermocouple wires, the printer will report NC for \"\"not connected.\"\"\nThe thermocouple lookup table in the firmware only goes up to 300C. \n\n\nSeeing a number over 300C means either a bad thermocouple amp chip, or excess voltage on the TC wires due to a short to something else in the hot block. (However, such a short will usually fry the entire controller board to smithereens.)\n\nTo rule out stray voltage entering the TC wires, completely detach both thermocouples from the hot blocks and lay them out not touching anything metal. Do you still get an unusually high reading on tool 0? \n\nTo rule out an issue with the specific thermocouple, swap thermocouples between tool 0 and tool 1 and see if the problem moves with the TCs.\n\nIf the TC is not touching anything, and the problem stays with the tool when you swap wires, and you STILL get >300C reads, the thermocouple amp chip has failed. It is possible to replace the chip if you have (or your friend has) a hot air rework station and some experience soldering. Or you can get a new mainboard from FlashForge. \n\nThe next question is why this problem happened. You don't want to fix the symptoms with new parts but have an underlying issue cause the same failure to re-occur after you swap out parts. With the printer on but the heaters off, use a multimeter to check for voltage between the hot block and the printer's ground. Certain types of heater cartridge failure can short the hot block to +24v. This is highly dangerous and needs to be fixed before you continue using the printer. So make sure you check it before trying to repair anything else. \n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n1151,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Cameron Stark,2.528907649931287,5.330079745452713,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,FlashForge Creator Pro Tool Failure! Temp limit reached,\"After printing successfully for a while I received an error saying:\n\nTool 0 Failure!\nTemp limit reached \nShutdown or restart.\n\nThe front panel is not responsive and doesn't allow the printer to print at all. If I quickly go to monitor mode it shows tool 0 temperature in the ~700°C range; which made me think it was the thermocouple.On the motherboard I unplugged the thermocouple and the same error occurred, I then swapped the other thermocouple and put it in its place and got the same error except the tool 1 temperature showed \"\"NC\"\". \n\nI had recently taken apart the extruders to change out the nozzles and thought I had possibly smashed the wires when putting it together but now I don't think that's the case. \n\nI'm on the phone with FlashForge's tech support but wanted to see if someone else has had the same experience for cross reference.\n\nWhat's the underlying issue? Is there a quick solution to this that can get me printing right away (I'm under a deadline)? What's the end solution?\n\",StarWind0,\"Oh yeah my printer had that. Specifically 2 Flash Forge Creator Pros, Replace the thermal couple. Done. Really fragile thermal couples they use.\n\nEdit I see you tried shorting the TC. Wouldn't shorting the TC, produce the same error?\n\",0.0,0.0\n1160,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,rudolf_franek,3.618048892289167,4.107235614683516,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.4319460411998994,How to choose printer with dual extruder?,\"I use Prusa i3 with one extruder for some years and I would like to print from one material in two colors or from different materials for one model. Therefore I'm lookig for new printer with dual extruder.\n\nIs there some way how to measure and/or compare quality of printers with dual extruder on the market?\n\nFor example to create 3d model - ask the seller(s) to print it - and then compare? - what details to focus on?\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"As you suggest yourself, ordering test prints of some model is one way to do it. \n\n3D Hubs and MakeXYZ allows you to get your model printed by hobbyists and small businesses for a fair price. Both sites also allow you to order prints based on printer type, which I believe is what you may be looking for.\n\nOn 3D Hubs, visit on of the trend reports, and select the printer you want a sample from. Similarly, on MakeXYZ, search local makers for your desired printer.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n1160,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,rudolf_franek,3.618048892289167,4.107235614683516,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.4319460411998994,How to choose printer with dual extruder?,\"I use Prusa i3 with one extruder for some years and I would like to print from one material in two colors or from different materials for one model. Therefore I'm lookig for new printer with dual extruder.\n\nIs there some way how to measure and/or compare quality of printers with dual extruder on the market?\n\nFor example to create 3d model - ask the seller(s) to print it - and then compare? - what details to focus on?\n\",J. Roibal - BlockchainEng,\"\"\"Make\"\" Magazine compares 3-D printers in a way that is as scientific as possible to help determine the strengths/weaknesses of each 3-D printer compared to others. The link to the November 2015 comparison test is available here: http://makezine.com/comparison/3dprinters/ I was unable to find the ability to compare among dual-extruders, however. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1242,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,rudolf_franek,3.0576060275493275,5.926649028516807,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Should I consider health impact of ABS or PLA when printing cookie cutter?,\"Should I consider health impact of ABS or PLA when printing cookie cutter similar to image below?\n\nHow safe it is to use ABS or PLA for kitchenware in general?\n\n\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"If it's one-time-use, both ABS and PLA are perfectly safe for use as a cookie cutter. \n\nThe \"\"food safety\"\" of 3D printed parts is fairly controversial. In fact, whether any particular material is approved by regulators (such as the US FDA) for food contact is much more complex than most people realize. Materials can be accepted for some uses and not others. But there are two major considerations:\n\n\nDoes the material leach into the food, or does the food leach into the material?\nCan the material be adequately cleaned and sterilized between repeated food exposures?\n\n\nWhether leaching is a concern will depend on the kind of contact. For example, nylon will absorb acids but is often used for potable water service. ABS is fine for cold foods but not hot foods. PLA (injection grade) is often used for disposable plastic forks and cold beverage cups, but rarely reusable containers. \n\nThere is some anecdotal evidence that lots of 3D printing filaments, particularly cheap Asian filaments, contain toxic chemicals in the pigments and additives. Heavy metals like lead, cadmium, strontium, and all sorts of nasty organic chemicals have been found. You probably WON'T get any meaningful leaching of these chemicals in the brief exposure with cookie dough, but to be safe I would only use reputable US and EU filament manufacturers for food contact. I would also stick to filament colors that use non-toxic pigments (eg plain white is almost always safe titanium dioxide) or no pigments at all (\"\"natural\"\" color). \n\nWhen it comes to cleaning a cookie cutter for multiple uses, ABS is probably a much better choice than PLA, because ABS can withstand fairly hot water without losing shape. PLA probably won't survive a cycle through the dishwasher. PETG is perhaps a better choice than ABS for longer contact with wet foods, but may or may not survive the dishwasher. \n\nHowever, the porous structure of 3D printed parts is a serious problem for cleanliness. The tiny grain structure and voids between extruded strands can act as a safe haven for bacteria between uses. This is particularly an issue with cookie dough containing raw egg. A porous surface for raw-food handling would not be acceptable in a commercial kitchen.\n\nNow, the odds of actually transmitting salmonella via poorly-cleaned cookie cutter may be fairly low. Lots of people cut meat at home on wooden cutting boards (which are also porous) and never get sick. Properly cooking the food immediately after handling will go a long way towards reducing the odds of harmful cross-contamination. You'll have to decide for yourself whether the risk profile is worth it. One-time use is the conservative choice. \n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n6085,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,rudolf_franek,2.528907649931287,4.084851449618667,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,How to sort G-code on SD card based on material (ABS|PLA|SBS)?,\"I have various G-code files stored at SDCard attached to my Prusa i3 MK2S printer. They are either for ABS, PLA or SBS. The more files I had on the SD card, the more I was running into trouble of finding for which material is which G-code. \n\nTo tackle the situation I created folders ABS, PLA and SBS and put new files into those directories.\n\n\n\nIs there any better method of finding, backwards from G-code, which material settings were intended to be used? \n\nIf so, is there a way to read temperature settings from G-code by Prusa i3 firmware without printing the actual model?\n\",0scar,\"Good question as I also ran into some files not remembering for which purpose or which material I printed these. The online G-code visualizers do not display the temperature or the correct filament width, so basically that won't help you (unless you modify the open source programs...). Reading from firmware would not be possible without adding a new feature, as far as I know, this is not implemented in Marlin Firmware or in Prusa firmware (which is based on Marlin).\n\nWhen using a printer server like OctoPrint, you can store your G-code files in a folder structure that you can define yourself; so basically create a directory structure based on the material type, brand, etc.\n\nHowever, it is relatively easy to write a small program in Python to read a file and interpret the lines (even if you're not a programmer). There are lots of tutorials and examples to find to open files read the file e.g. line by line and detect strings to identify the settings for G-codes M104/M109 (hot end temperature) and M140/M190 (bed temperature). Usually you slice your models with a specific set of bed and hot end temperature (which you know), so basically you can find out which material was meant to be printed with the G-code file. You could even let the program sort the files for you by moving them into separate folders.\n\nI'll add it to my list of things I'd like to do some rainy day! :)\n\nNote that some printers use different, or even custom G-codes to control bed temperature; e.g. when reading Ultimaker 3 G-code files you cannot see the bed temperature!\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n1165,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ajwood,3.0576060275493275,4.137067945083423,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.2576023278269264,Is this model feasible to print?,\"I have a 3D model that I'd like to print. This is my first project, so I'm trying to decide if I'm getting in over my head. Here's the model rendered with Blender:\n\n\n\nIf I throw it at a commercial printing shoppe, is it going to be fairly straight forward? Or is it unlikely to be able to get the colours fitting together like this to work well?\n\",darth pixel,\"Here is a set of options you can get:\n\n\nprint the object on multi color printer\n\n\nUnfortunately we got some limitations here (on the market). Printers have limited set of heads which are in fact printing in one color at a time. So we usually have 2 colors, there are also 4 color heads. If there are more then they are rare, expensive or rare and expensive.\n\nhere are examples of such color printouts:\n\nproject\nproject\n\n\nprint object splitted\n\n\nIn this case you can have single color printer. You print parts in one color then you change filament and print other color and so on. The issue here is to have well formed object which is designed for such print method (it's connectable in some way) or you can stick printed parts with the glue.\n\nhere are examples of such puzzled printouts: \n\nproject\nproject\n\n\nprint and paint\n\n\nhere are examples of such painted printouts: \n\nproject\nproject\n\nNOTE:\n\nAll above assumes that you are gonna print your object in FDM technology. You can also take a look on other technologies such as:\n\n\nStereolithography(SLA)\nDigital Light Processing(DLP)\nSelective Laser Sintering (SLS)\nSelective laser melting (SLM)\nElectronic Beam Melting (EBM)\nLaminated object manufacturing (LOM)\n\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n1165,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ajwood,3.0576060275493275,4.137067945083423,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.2576023278269264,Is this model feasible to print?,\"I have a 3D model that I'd like to print. This is my first project, so I'm trying to decide if I'm getting in over my head. Here's the model rendered with Blender:\n\n\n\nIf I throw it at a commercial printing shoppe, is it going to be fairly straight forward? Or is it unlikely to be able to get the colours fitting together like this to work well?\n\",Dan Powers,\"You would need to ask around shops to see what they think about this 3d file. What I have heard is that colors of prints end up blended together, and that the print resolution is low. How many colors are you using? You could probably get a quality print, but it would come with a high price. Print quality is dependent on the expensiveness of the machine used.\n\",0.0,0.0\n1180,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ajwood,1.726248027126092,4.475547997995099,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Do 3D Printers Prefer Particular Topology?,\"Do 3D printers prefer particular topology? In case I'm not using the word quite right, I'm specifically wondering if I should make the faces in my models:\n\n\ntriangles\nquads\nn-gons.. \n\n\",darth pixel,\"The most common file format in 3D printing is STL. This file format is using triangles only so when you export an object from your CAD application to STL then exporter has to transform all n-gon faces into triangles.\n\nOnce the file is created then it is usually imported by slicer application (or module) which performs slicing using polynomial calculation to find intersection with next surfaces. Here is good example of such intersection finding in javascript.\n\nSo answering your question:\n\n\nno - it doesn't matter as you usually use file format in which faces are triangles but\nyes - it matters as all your n-gon faces needs to be transformed into triangles\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n1187,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ajwood,2.528907649931287,3.5909472313636615,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Is inconsistent vertex density a bad thing?,\"Will an inconsistent vertex density likely introduce artifacts in a print? Or is it OK as long as it's a smooth surface?\n\n\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"For the most part, the exact level of vertex density doesn't matter too much. But it does depend on the slicer and settings. Some slicers (like Slic3r) will auto-decimate toolpaths to ensure that the rate of motion commands isn't too difficult for the old, slow 8bit processors in most consumer/hobbyist 3d printers. Having a large number of very small motion commands can bog down these motion controllers and cause pause-stuttering that creates little zits on the print. Most slicers simply reduce model detail level to safeguard the motion controller. Because the contours are decimated to a minimum motion segment length, very small model triangles are irrelevant to printer performance. At the most, they might add a marginal amount of slicing time. \n\nOn the other hand, some slicers (like Simplify3d) assume you have the correct level of detail you want in your model, and will pretty faithfully reproduce the model file's contours in the sliced toolpath. If your entire model is very high mesh density / poly count in general, or if your high-density mesh regions are crossed by a layer slice, this can produce a series of very, very short motion commands. Sometimes the motion commands are even smaller than the motion resolution of the printer, and simply take up processor time (to evaluate and drop from the queue) with no benefit to print fidelity. \n\nIn a more general sense, high-poly models are dramatically more difficult for the 3d printer to reproduce accurately. There are two big issues: \n\n\nEach motion segment requires some processor time to read/receive, parse, and execute. But the shorter the segment lengths are, the faster the printer runs through them. A short move takes little time to perform but still has the same processor load as a long move. At a certain point, the processor can't keep up, and performance suffers. The printer may run out of queued moves to execute and pause in place, or it may violate acceleration limits and violently clunk through corners (or even lose position) because it didn't have enough time to iterate through the calculations that determine how fast it should move.\nThe algorithms used by most consumer/hobbyist 3d printer firmwares (Marlin, Repetier, Sailfish, Smoothieware, etc) are based on GRBL. And without getting into the math, GRBL uses the sharpness of the corners between motion segments to decide how fast to travel through the corner. So a 90 degree turn will trigger a considerable slowdown, while a series of small angles (such as many small segments comprising a curved surface) is not recognized by the algorithm, and it will try to barrel through the curve at full speed. On long, gentle curves, this is fine, but high-poly tight curves (such as a filleted edge or organic model detail) are traversed far too fast because no slowdowns are triggered. This means high-poly models must be printed at much lower feedrates / target speeds, because the acceleration algorithm can't figure out when to go fast or slow. Whereas a blocky, low-poly model can be printed much faster and the acceleration code will speed up and slow down as needed for good quality. \n\n\nThese are primarily issues with high vertex density versus low vertex density, not variable density. Small pockets of high detail are usually not problematic, as long as they are small enough that the motion planner queue (say, 16 segments) doesn't get filled with too many very small movements. A few small segments in a row is ok, but a few dozen is not. \n\nThese are limitations baked into the algorithms used by today's slicers and motion controllers. In the future, they may not be so problematic. \n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n1177,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,nihaljp,1.0891412423578797,3.264951048124368,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,SLS 3D printer to DMLS 3D printer,\"I know that the SLS 3D printer stands for selective laser sintering,where as DMLS stands for direct metal laser sintering.\n\nI want to know that,can i convert SLS 3D printer to DMLS.\n\nBy just changing powder(or another way?)\n\",JorgePerez,\"By just changing powder: No.\nChanging the powder, the laser and the chamber, maybe you can get something, but it's not recommended.\nDMLS machines use a sealed chamber with a flow of Argon, Nitrogen, or other gas to prevent oxidation of metal powder (and avoid fire or explosions).\nLaser power for metal needs to be of higher power than that used por polymer laser sintering (SLS, SLM, LS, etc).\nBTW. DMLS also need a metallic build plate to dissipate heat.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1177,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,nihaljp,1.0891412423578797,3.264951048124368,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,SLS 3D printer to DMLS 3D printer,\"I know that the SLS 3D printer stands for selective laser sintering,where as DMLS stands for direct metal laser sintering.\n\nI want to know that,can i convert SLS 3D printer to DMLS.\n\nBy just changing powder(or another way?)\n\",Lawrence B. Deleon,\"Totally agreed with the answer provided.To add to that answer, the use of DMLS lies on the thickness and material limitations of SLS method. So, regarding the amount of thickness, the original source of sizing for both the methods vary drastically and hence cannot be inter-converted. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1185,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Delfin,2.1782824847157594,5.709329079251961,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Offset in X or Y axis,\"How can I set an offset in y or x axis so that I can move the position of my printed object. I have tried doing this with so many options in Repetier, and in Slic3r, and still nothing, please, have you got any ideas?\n\nFirst Edit:\nI have added an image of the changes I have done, nothing of this works for me\n\n\",darth pixel,\"There are two things which shouldn't be mixed.\n\n\nPosition of the object relative to its own coordinate system.\n\n\nIn general object doesn't have specific position stored inside. Which is obvious as structure of the object should store construction of an object but not its position. So position is relation-to-something so to speak and because object itself doesn't contain any information about object environment then there is no position stored.\n\nBut there is one hack. All coordinates stored inside object are in fact a realtion to some starting point. Let's say it's a zero-point or starting point of the coordinate system of the object. This is sometimes anoying because it's usually bottom left corner or center of the object. Unfortunately some applications store this starting point out of the object. This means that object has starting point in some point but this point is outside of the object itself.\n\nThis cause the situation when user loads an object in another application then object is translated in \"\"strange\"\" position.\n\n\nPosition of the object in printing application.\n\n\nWhen user loads an object into printing application then object is usualy set in the center of build plate. This also sounds obvious but if inner coordinate system of the object is translated then object can be repositioned even out of the build plate.\n\nSo what is the solution for such situation.\n\nThere are two options.\n\n\nManage object coordinate system in the application which create STL file or convert object into STL format or\nManage (switch off) option called \"\"center on build plate\"\" or \"\"center on the bed\"\" or \"\"center object\"\" or \"\"auto-center parts\"\" in printing application.\n\n\nThen it will be possible (or easier) to position object according to user needs.\n\nAnother issue is STL object which is in fact kinda assembly of separate objects. If you encounter such situation. See here for example\n\n\n\nThese two guys are stored in one STL file so they have common coordinate system and common starting point. All above applies to such assembly.\n\nApplications allows user to split such assembly into separate objects so each one can be repositioned separately. But be careful - split can disassemble parts of the object itself. In the example the tounge of the trex is 3rd object in the assembly.\n\nIn terms of mentioned aps:\n\n\nReptier: go to object placement \"\"tab\"\" and set position manually\nSlic3r: go to Printer settings and set \"\"print center\"\", also you can switch off File > Preferences > Auto-center parts\nMetterControl: go to printer > print area and set print center\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n1199,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Delfin,2.1782824847157594,5.029210784190747,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Smooth finish in Slic3r using Support Material,\"How can I obtain a smooth finish like the one in this video: Easy and clean support material removal from 3D printed part., using Slic3r instead of Simplify3D? What settings do I need to change? \n\",darth pixel,\"I'd say the clue is the material itself and the geometry of the object. But in terms of Slic3r settings you could experiment with:\n\n(print settings >> support material)\n\n\npattern spacing (he has here something around 5mm)\npattern (I'd say the best for you is rectlinear)\ncontact z distance (choose 0.2 or close to that)\ninterface layers (here 0 (zero) for sure)\ndon't support bridges (this one depends on your geometry and if slic3r calculates something as a bridge or not)\n\n\nAll above is also connected (in a way) with HE temperature and layer height. Usualy the higher temperature (in a range for specific material) the better sticking between layers. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n1496,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Delfin,2.8153892694839717,4.817787853728866,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,OctoPrint webpage freezes (Setup on a Raspberry Pi running Raspbian),\"I have been using a software called OctoPrint that allows you to control your printer in your Browser. For sake of simplicity I have used Octopi, a preinstalled image with OctoPrint, but now I would like to make some changes, and I decided to build OctroPrint by myself, the instructions for building it are here: https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/wiki/Setup-on-a-Raspberry-Pi-running-Raspbian. The problem is that when I follow the first commands:\n\nsudo apt-get update\nsudo apt-get upgrade\ncd ~\nsudo apt-get install python-pip python-dev python-setuptools python-virtualenv git libyaml-dev build-essential\ngit clone https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint.git\ncd OctoPrint\nvirtualenv venv\n./venv/bin/pip install pip --upgrade\n./venv/bin/python setup.py install\nmkdir ~/.octoprint\nsudo usermod -a -G tty pi\nsudo usermod -a -G dialout pi\n\n\nAnd then I start the octoprint server\n\n ~/OctoPrint/venv/bin/octoprint\n\n\nThe webpage of Octoprint freezes\n\n\n\nI don't know if this is fixed in later commands, but I would like to get a sense of how all fits together before continue. It doesn't look that is the browser (I am capable to visit other websites without any problems), so is maybe Octoprint? How can I fix this? Did anyone have this problem before? Thanks in advance\n\n\n\nThe output in the console is:\n\n2016-07-11 03:09:19,442 - octoprint.server - INFO - Starting OctoPrint 1.2.13 (master branch)\n2016-07-11 03:09:19,502 - octoprint.plugin.core - INFO - Loading plugins from /home/pi/.octoprint/plugins, /home/pi/OctoPrint/venv/lib/python2.7/site-packages/OctoPrint-1.2.13-py2.7.egg/octoprint/plugins and installed plugin packages...\n2016-07-11 03:09:20,522 - octoprint.plugins.discovery - INFO - pybonjour is not installed, Zeroconf Discovery won't be available\n2016-07-11 03:09:20,524 - octoprint.plugin.core - INFO - Found 6 plugin(s) providing 6 mixin implementations, 3 hook handlers\n2016-07-11 03:09:20,533 - octoprint.filemanager.storage - INFO - Initializing the file metadata for /home/pi/.octoprint/uploads...\n2016-07-11 03:09:20,536 - octoprint.filemanager.storage - INFO - ... file metadata for /home/pi/.octoprint/uploads initialized successfully.\n2016-07-11 03:09:23,615 - octoprint.util.pip - INFO - Found pip at /home/pi/OctoPrint/venv/bin/pip, version is 8.1.2\n2016-07-11 03:09:23,620 - octoprint.plugin.core - INFO - Initialized 6 plugin implementation(s)\n2016-07-11 03:09:23,625 - octoprint.plugin.core - INFO - 6 plugin(s) registered with the system:\n| Announcement Plugin (bundled) = /home/pi/OctoPrint/venv/lib/python2.7/site-packages/OctoPrint-1.2.13-py2.7.egg/octoprint/plugins/announcements\n| CuraEngine (<= 15.04) (bundled) = /home/pi/OctoPrint/venv/lib/python2.7/site-packages/OctoPrint-1.2.13-py2.7.egg/octoprint/plugins/cura\n| Discovery (bundled) = /home/pi/OctoPrint/venv/lib/python2.7/site-packages/OctoPrint-1.2.13-py2.7.egg/octoprint/plugins/discovery\n| Plugin Manager (bundled) = /home/pi/OctoPrint/venv/lib/python2.7/site-packages/OctoPrint-1.2.13-py2.7.egg/octoprint/plugins/pluginmanager\n| Software Update (bundled) = /home/pi/OctoPrint/venv/lib/python2.7/site-packages/OctoPrint-1.2.13-py2.7.egg/octoprint/plugins/softwareupdate\n| Virtual Printer (bundled) = /home/pi/OctoPrint/venv/lib/python2.7/site-packages/OctoPrint-1.2.13-py2.7.egg/octoprint/plugins/virtual_printer\n2016-07-11 03:09:23,628 - octoprint.filemanager - INFO - Adding backlog items from all storage types to analysis queue...\n2016-07-11 03:09:23,639 - octoprint.filemanager - INFO - Added 0 items from storage type \"\"local\"\" to analysis queue\n2016-07-11 03:09:23,644 - octoprint.server - INFO - Reset webasset folder /home/pi/.octoprint/generated/webassets...\n2016-07-11 03:09:23,660 - octoprint.server - INFO - Reset webasset folder /home/pi/.octoprint/generated/.webassets-cache...\n2016-07-11 03:09:24,082 - octoprint.plugins.discovery - INFO - Registered OctoPrint instance on raspberrypi for SSDP\n2016-07-11 03:09:24,095 - octoprint.plugins.pluginmanager - INFO - Loaded plugin repository data from disk, was still valid\n2016-07-11 03:09:24,135 - octoprint.server - INFO - Listening on http://0.0.0.0:5000\n2016-07-11 03:09:24,602 - octoprint.plugins.announcements - INFO - Loaded channel _important from http://octoprint.org/feeds/important.xml in 0.43s\n2016-07-11 03:09:25,271 - octoprint.server - INFO - Preemptively caching / for {'query_string': 'en', 'path': '/', 'base_url': 'http://0.0.0.0:5000/'}\n2016-07-11 03:09:59,143 - octoprint.server.util.sockjs - INFO - New connection from client: 127.0.0.1\n2016-07-11 03:09:59,884 - octoprint.plugins.cura - INFO - Path to CuraEngine has not been configured yet or does not exist (currently set to None), Cura will not be selectable for slicing\n\n\",Jim,\"Is it the Raspberry Pi that locks up, or just the webpage? If the whole thing becomes unresponsive I would consider reviewing your overclocking settings. If you've set one of the higher overclocking values in the config script, this can often lead to random lockups. If you don't see the config script every time you boot the Pi, you can access it by typing the following into a terminal window.\n\nsudo raspi-config\n\n\nYou can find out how to change the overclocking settings from the config script in this guide\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5383,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Delfin,2.1782824847157594,3.087132483714226,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Printing Chocolate with Ramps 1.4,\"Is it possible to print chocolate or food using Ramps 1.4? I have seen printers that are capable of printing food. But I am not sure if there is one that is open source. Does any of you have any experience printing food? Thanks \n\",Ecnerwal,\"The controller interface board (that being the RAMPS 1.4 you ask about) should be up to the task and not care WHAT it's printing. You'll probably be creating your own hotend design to pull this off, and if you make it open source, then it will be. I'm envisioning stainless steel, careful temperature control, lots of mixing, perhaps some sort of screw-feed extruder (or batch-fed plunger with the melting and filling under close control on a separate machine, then the hotend on the printer doing a fine and careful job keeping the temperature right at 91.7 °F around the plunger.) You'll have design work to do on the mechanical hardware side, but the electronics and software should be easily adapted. \n\nRead up some on food equipment design to make sure whatever you come up with can be cleaned appropriately for food handling, and uses only food-safe contact surfaces and lubricants/bearings.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5905,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Delfin,2.528907649931287,5.017215538549123,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.320478682445624,0.42741039782645945,Speeding up the heating of the heated bed,\"Currently I am using a 12 volts, 20 amperes power supply (Model S-240-12) \n\n\n\nThe stepper motors and the extruder need 5 amp, and the heated bed build plate needs 11 amp. \n\n\n\nTechnically you only need to use a 12 Volts, 16 amperes power supply, but I understand that you use the one with 20 amp because pulse currents from extruders and stepper motors can be stressful to supplies loaded to the max, so for reliability and performance, it is better to use a supply rated for 25% more than you need \n\nIn the place where I buy the spare parts for my 3d printer they also sell 12 V power supplies capable of delivering 25 amp and 30 amp and they told me that if I use those ones you are going to be able to speed up the heating of the heated bed. Is that true? I understand that the heated bed is only going to take the 11 amp that it needs so is not going to make any difference to use power supplies capable of delivering more current\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"May I recommend an alternative approach, which does not require any change of hardware? The time required to heat the bed is not huge, so either via USB from your computer or from the front panel, instruct your printer to heat the bed first, while you're setting everything else up (loading gcode files, changing filaments, or whatever). This way tasks are completed in parallel.\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5905,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Delfin,2.528907649931287,5.017215538549123,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.320478682445624,0.42741039782645945,Speeding up the heating of the heated bed,\"Currently I am using a 12 volts, 20 amperes power supply (Model S-240-12) \n\n\n\nThe stepper motors and the extruder need 5 amp, and the heated bed build plate needs 11 amp. \n\n\n\nTechnically you only need to use a 12 Volts, 16 amperes power supply, but I understand that you use the one with 20 amp because pulse currents from extruders and stepper motors can be stressful to supplies loaded to the max, so for reliability and performance, it is better to use a supply rated for 25% more than you need \n\nIn the place where I buy the spare parts for my 3d printer they also sell 12 V power supplies capable of delivering 25 amp and 30 amp and they told me that if I use those ones you are going to be able to speed up the heating of the heated bed. Is that true? I understand that the heated bed is only going to take the 11 amp that it needs so is not going to make any difference to use power supplies capable of delivering more current\n\",0scar,\"Changing the PSU with one with a higher amperage will not make the bed heat up any faster unless the PSU is underrated for the amperage required and the voltage is dropping as a result of the load. This can be checked by measuring the output voltage with a multimeter (when the PSU is loaded e.g. by a heating heat bed). In this case, the PSU has a marginal higher Amperage than the printer consumes (even has some room for the over-voltage; under the assumption that it is a good working PSU). Increasing the voltage will decrease the heat up time. There is a screw next to the 12 V connectors that can change the output voltage of the PSU. Usually it is save to increase the voltage up to 14 V, but that depends on your whole setup (and 14 V is applied to the whole setup, increasing the current for all parts, including your printer controller board, this board must be rated for the 14 V). Please do check the stability of the voltage during load.\n\nAlthough it can be done, it is not something I used. What is an extra minute on a print of several hours?\n\nYou can do the math: say the heat bed has a resistance of 1.2 Ω:\n\n\nat 12 V that will draw 10 Amps (12 V / 1.2 Ω) resulting in a 120 Watt (10² A * 1.2 Ω or 12 V * 10 A) bed,\nat 14 V that same bed will draw 11.7 Amps (14 V / 1.2 Ω) resulting in a 163.3 Watt bed.\n\n\nUse at your own risk!\n\nWhat you could do to decrease time to heat the bed without changing the PSU or the voltage is to insulate the bottom of the heat bed with heat bed cotton sheets or cork (placemats from IKEA ;) ), put a sheet of cork onto the heat bed before printing and start heating the bed through the LCD panel of the printer or any attached printer controller programs over USB prior to printing.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n1193,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,sajis997,2.528907649931287,5.740558441511093,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Hatch Distance and Scan Distance,\"I am going through some of the basics about one of the 3D printing techniques - Selective Laser Sintering, and I am confused between the above mentioned parameters - scan distance and hatch distance. Are they the same ?\n\nHow do we calculate the value - the overlapped area of two parallel scan lines in linear scanning technique. There must be some area of overlapping for the selective laser sintering to work.\n\nAny idea ?\n\",amra,\"Scan spacing\n\n\n Within each of the ‘islands’, simple alternating scan vectors are used with the spacing between these vectors defined as the ‘scan spacing’ and the speed with which the laser spot moves across the surface defined as the ‘scan speed’. \n\n\n\n\nSource\n\n\nThe influence of the laser scan strategy on grain structure and cracking behaviour in SLM powder-bed fabricated nickel superalloy\nchapter: 2.2. SLM processing and laser scan strategy\n\n\nHatch distance\n\n\n The stripe pattern is a band defined by the scan vector width (ie stripe width), the hatching space between adjacent tracks and the scan direction as well as the overlap with the neighbouring stripes\n\n\n\n\n\nSource \n\n\nScanning patterns in SLM\n\n\nNotes\n\n\nThe computer controlled laser scans the surface of the bed to selectively melt the current two-dimensional slice of the CAD file.\nThe laser scanning remelts some of the previously built layer to ensure good bonding between layers and a fully dense component overall.\nCool printing image\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n1196,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Cees Meijer,1.726248027126092,4.423154423416797,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,'Sine wave' deviation in X-Axis on moving bed printer.,\"I've built a a PrintrBot inspired printer with a moving printbed for the X-Axis movement. It's controlled by a RAMPS board running Marlin firmware. And there is a problem with the X-Axis positioning.\n\n\nAs can be seen in the image the X-Axis is not really stable. The blocks should be 10x10x10 mm, and the top and bottom are perfect. The waving does not appear in the Y-direction, it's only in the direction of the bed movement.\nEach block was printed at different speed, from medium to dead-slow. I limited the acceleration and in the last block I also limited the non-printing speed so the bed would never experience a higher acceleration than with the printing itself. But the wave effect remains. And it's also remarkably repeatable so it looks more like a synchronisation error somewhere. Does anyone has a clue, or experienced a similar effect ?\n\",darth pixel,\"This is the issue of your z-axis rather than x- or y-axis because printing speed doesn't have any influence on the results.\n\nI bet:\n\n\nyour threded rods are bent or\nnuts on these rods have too high clearance or\nnuts on these rods have eccentricity or\ncouplings (between motor and threded rods) are bent or\nthese couplings are badly fitted\n\n\nAll above suggestions concern z-axis.\n\n[edit] because it's PrintBot its z-axis has the following disadvantage\n\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n1205,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dustin Wheeler,3.452496054252184,5.281584533097815,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Increased issues with filament grinding,\"I have a FlashForge CreatorX (MakerBot clone) that's been working fine for about 15 months. Int he past month, I started noticing \"\"thin\"\" layers in some of my ABS prints. I finally tracked the issue down to the extruder gear grinding the filament (after a while, enough filament had ground off that the gear teeth were filled with plastic). I cleaned the gear twice before giving up on ABS and switching to PLA. Everything seemed ok until the PLA started doing the same thing during an overnight print (thin layers on prints, audible skipping during filament feed). \n\nRaising the temperature on the extruder seems to fix the problem, but I'm now extruding PLA at 242 °C, much higher than I used to need. I worry that continued printing at this temperature will increase wear on the thermistor and increase my chances of clogging PLA in the gear (an issue I've had twice before). \n\nAre there any common issues that cause this issue of filament not feeding properly? I've tried cleaning out the extruder head with wire and there don't seem to be any clogs…\n\",tbm0115,\"I've encountered this on my Replicator Dual in the past. I was only using MakerBot branded ABS filament, so it wasn't a quality issue for me.\n\nWhat I found was that the delrin plunger design that \"\"helps\"\" keep the filament in contact with the drive gear wasn't actually helping. So, I installed the newer assemblies that use a spinning bearing to contact with the filament.\n\n\nInstall (or keep installed) a spring loaded extruder assembly.\nWhen feeding filament, loosen the spring and gradually tighten until the filament begins feeding on its own.\nTry to stay close to the recommended print temperatures for the material. ABS is typically somewhere around 225C, but it depends on the supplier.\nEnsure your filament is stored in a dry place. This is way more of an issue for PLA, but it doesn't hurt to keep your material protected.\nIf it continues, perhaps swap out the drive gear itself. If you've dropped your motor or somehow a burr has developed on any of the teeth, naturally the burr will cut away the material. Gears are very temperamental and should be considered a consumable.\n\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n1205,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dustin Wheeler,3.452496054252184,5.281584533097815,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Increased issues with filament grinding,\"I have a FlashForge CreatorX (MakerBot clone) that's been working fine for about 15 months. Int he past month, I started noticing \"\"thin\"\" layers in some of my ABS prints. I finally tracked the issue down to the extruder gear grinding the filament (after a while, enough filament had ground off that the gear teeth were filled with plastic). I cleaned the gear twice before giving up on ABS and switching to PLA. Everything seemed ok until the PLA started doing the same thing during an overnight print (thin layers on prints, audible skipping during filament feed). \n\nRaising the temperature on the extruder seems to fix the problem, but I'm now extruding PLA at 242 °C, much higher than I used to need. I worry that continued printing at this temperature will increase wear on the thermistor and increase my chances of clogging PLA in the gear (an issue I've had twice before). \n\nAre there any common issues that cause this issue of filament not feeding properly? I've tried cleaning out the extruder head with wire and there don't seem to be any clogs…\n\",Dustin Wheeler,\"After disassembling the extruder mechanism, I tracked the issue down to a clogged extruder… though not in the way I'd expected. A (previously?) common method to drop filament down to the hot end and create a heat-break between the heater and the extruder gear was the use of a PTFE (Teflon) sleeve. Over time, this sleeve can become clogged by filament that has melted and degraded/carbonized, sticking to the \"\"nonstick\"\" walls. This creates a bottleneck for the new filament, preventing smooth extrusion. \n\n\n\n\nMy printer came with two replacement tubes. Swapping those in for the old, clogged tubes resulted in instantly improved printing… sorta like getting a new printer! Print temperatures are back to normal and everything operates fine. I was also able to drill out the carbonized filament from the old sleeve, though I doubt I'll reuse it. I found replacement sleeves on Amazon here and an alternative, all-metal extruder assembly manufactured by Micro-Swiss. I'm not sure if you'd run into clogging issues on the all-metal one, so perhaps staying with the PTFE tubes and replacing them occasionally is a better way to go. \n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n2621,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dustin Wheeler,4.626593049438165,6.917286162809899,2.7799718631987322,6.376119179161167,4.091740895605862,2.6553159206313057,What are the advantages and disadvantages of an all-metal hot end compared to one with a PTFE heat break?,\"Related to an issue I had in this question, where the PTFE tube feeding my filament to the metal tip of the extruder clogged and became discolored: what are the advantages and disadvantages of changing out my extruder (Mk10 on a FlashForge Creator X) for an all-metal solution like the one advertised here (by Micro-Swiss). \n\nI understand that the conversion would allow me to print higher-temperature materials (like nylon), but I'm also trying to figure out the trade-offs with regard to printing PLA/ABS parts. \n\",JorgePerez,\"This is a good question to make a comparison table. All-metal hotends Vs. PTFE liner hotends.\n\nAll metal:\n\n\nWorks well for high (+250ºC) temperatures filaments like nylon or PC.\nNo need to replace the PTFE liner (pretty obvious).\nRetraction performs worse.\nPlastic can get stuck to the inner walls. This can lead to clogging, more likely when changing from ABS to PLA (higher temp plastic to lower temp plastic).\n\n\nPTFE liner hotend:\n\n\nLimited working temperature. Above 250 PTFE will start to degrade.\nPTFE tube needs to be replaced more or less often, depending on the use of your printer.\nRetraction performs better.\nPlastic is less likely to get stuck in inner wall (PTFE is very nonstick).\nWhen using PTFE liner, the plastic is melted very close to the nozzle. Unlike other techniques, in FFF/FDM 3D printing this is more desirable. E.g. to avoid 'heat creep', for a better flow control and more accurate output dimension.\n\n\nOf course there are more points to compare. Please comment to add any other useful point.\n\",3.5068404193471867,2.0769199823829045\n2621,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dustin Wheeler,4.626593049438165,6.917286162809899,2.7799718631987322,6.376119179161167,4.091740895605862,2.6553159206313057,What are the advantages and disadvantages of an all-metal hot end compared to one with a PTFE heat break?,\"Related to an issue I had in this question, where the PTFE tube feeding my filament to the metal tip of the extruder clogged and became discolored: what are the advantages and disadvantages of changing out my extruder (Mk10 on a FlashForge Creator X) for an all-metal solution like the one advertised here (by Micro-Swiss). \n\nI understand that the conversion would allow me to print higher-temperature materials (like nylon), but I'm also trying to figure out the trade-offs with regard to printing PLA/ABS parts. \n\",Raeffi,\"My Tevo Tarantula had an all metal hotend included and I never ran into any issues only printing PLA and PETG, most of the time I was even able to pull out the filament while the printer was cold.\n\nAfter I upgraded to an E3Dv6 clone with PTFE lined heatbreak I started to have issues because of the filament getting stuck where the Bowden tube and the heatbreak connected, so I recently replaced it with an all metal heatbreak again and the issues instantly went away.\n\",0.0,0.0\n1211,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,neversleep,1.726248027126092,4.323327800667581,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,2.6553159206313057,What is the least expensive 3D printer?,\"What is the least expensive 3D printer available today? I am looking for something suitable for general use in a home office.\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"Depends on your definition of \"\"available\"\" and your definition of \"\"suitable for general use.\"\" \n\nThe cheapest 3D printers are mostly Kickstarter promises that take a year or more to ship, if they ever do. For example, the Peachy 3D printer Kickstarter just imploded and failed. There have been many other failed low-cost 3D printer crowdfunding campaigns. Another low cost Kickstarter printer, the 101Hero, is ongoing now (May 2016), but most competent observers I've talked to don't believe it will succeed at delivering working printers to all backers at that price point. If they do deliver, it will be painfully low-cost components and the printer will not perform well or last long. Stay away from crowdfunding campaigns for your first printer. At best, you get a beta product with lots of kinks to work out. At worst, you get nothing and lose your money. \n\nFor actual products you can purchase today, there's a wide spectrum of quality/cost tradeoffs.\n\n\nUnder \\$200 there's nothing credible. The Tiko (\\$179) might deliver, but post-Kickstarter units are widely expected to cost more.\nAround \\$200-300 you get into low-quality Prusa i3 kits from China. These aren't a great value -- most people end up spending another few hundred dollars on upgrades to get them working reliably and with high quality.\nAround \\$300-400 you can get an ok 3D printer, often with \"\"chipped\"\" proprietary filament so the vendor can make high profits on locked-in consumables. (\"\"Razors and blades\"\" model.) For example, the XYZPrinting Da Vinci Jr is \\$350 but locks you into high-cost chipped filament. The Wanhao Duplicator i3 is currently a community favorite for value-for-money at \\$399. The Printrbot Play is much higher quality/reliability but much smaller at the same price. \nIf you get up around \\$600, a big range of decent printers opens up. But this is no longer the \"\"least expensive\"\" option, so I won't get into it. \n\n\nIf you want to tinker, the Duplicator i3 is a good choice. If you want a machine that just prints, the Play is a good choice. There are other printers and cheaper printers, but most of what you'll find below $400 is going to end up causing pain unless your goal is simply to tinker with printer troubleshooting and upgrades. \n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n1211,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,neversleep,1.726248027126092,4.323327800667581,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,2.6553159206313057,What is the least expensive 3D printer?,\"What is the least expensive 3D printer available today? I am looking for something suitable for general use in a home office.\n\",DarkyShadoW,\"You can get an A8 3D printer on Gearbest at 149$, It's a version of an i3, with easy assemble and pre configured, and it have a suprising good quality.\n\nI thinks is the best price/quality that you can find at the moment. It prints with a good quality by default and you can upgrade it if you need it without spending hundreds of dollars.\n\nhttp://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_337314.html\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1217,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Zythyr,2.1782824847157594,4.624295090319497,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How to display images on DLP using HDMI for 3D printing?,\"I am working on a DLP based 3D printer. I already sliced my STL file to multiple layers. Each layer is saved as a SVG file. Because its an SVG file, I can always convert each layer to PNG/JPG file if desired. \n\nI have a TI DLP Lightcrafter 4500 module connected to my laptop using the HDMI. The DLP shows up as a second monitor on my laptop. I am using LabVIEW to control all components of the printer. \n\nQuestion 1: How I can programmatically display my desired image file on the DLP projector. I would prefer to use Python or LabVIEW to display my desired image onto the entire screen of the DLP. Is there any way to achieve this on Windows? I also have the option of using Raspberry Pi + LabVIEW using LINX (http://www.labviewmakerhub.com/). I looked at nanoDLP (http://www.nanodlp.com/), which is a control software for DLP based 3D printers. However, I can't figure out how they manage to display the desired images to the DLP. \n\nQuestion 2: Is it possible to display a SVG file to the DLP instead of PNG/JPG/BMP? If not, how do I know which resolution to use when converting SVG to PNG/JPG/BMP? \n\",Shahin,\"Q1: Printrun is 3D printer host software written in Python with limited DLP support. You can checkout how it display layers.\nNanoDLP directly talk to GPU through Dispmanx which makes it Raspberry Pi only. \n\nQ2: Printrun supports SVG. To convert SVG (multi-layer) to PNG you can use ImageMagick cli tools, you should consider your projector resolution too.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1218,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Robert Lerman,1.726248027126092,4.0883431810905995,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,3D Printer Stringing after nth layer,\"Quick Question.\nMy Printer is the CTC clone of the Makerbot Replicator Dual.\n\nFor my past few prints after nth layer the print just starts to go stringy. Here is an example:\n\n\n\nI am currently using MakerWare with the following settings\n\n{\n \"\"_attached_extruders\"\" : [ \"\"mk8\"\", \"\"mk8\"\" ],\n \"\"_bot\"\" : \"\"replicatordual\"\",\n \"\"_extruders\"\" : [ 0 ],\n \"\"_materials\"\" : [ \"\"pla\"\", \"\"pla\"\" ],\n \"\"adjacentFillLeakyConnections\"\" : false,\n \"\"adjacentFillLeakyDistanceRatio\"\" : 0,\n \"\"anchorExtrusionAmount\"\" : 5.0,\n \"\"anchorExtrusionSpeed\"\" : 2.0,\n \"\"anchorWidth\"\" : 2.0,\n \"\"backlashEpsilon\"\" : 0.050,\n \"\"backlashFeedback\"\" : 0.90,\n \"\"backlashX\"\" : 0.0,\n \"\"backlashY\"\" : 0.090,\n \"\"bedZOffset\"\" : 0.0,\n \"\"bridgeAnchorMinimumLength\"\" : 0.80,\n \"\"bridgeAnchorWidth\"\" : 0.80,\n \"\"bridgeMaximumLength\"\" : 80.0,\n \"\"bridgeSpacingMultiplier\"\" : 1.0,\n \"\"coarseness\"\" : 9.999999747378752e-005,\n \"\"commentClose\"\" : \"\"\"\",\n \"\"commentOpen\"\" : \"\";\"\",\n \"\"computeVolumeLike2_1_0\"\" : false,\n \"\"defaultExtruder\"\" : 0,\n \"\"defaultRaftMaterial\"\" : 0,\n \"\"defaultSupportMaterial\"\" : 0,\n \"\"description\"\" : \"\"\"\",\n \"\"doAnchor\"\" : true,\n \"\"doBacklashCompensation\"\" : false,\n \"\"doBreakawaySupport\"\" : false,\n \"\"doBridging\"\" : true,\n \"\"doDynamicSpeed\"\" : false,\n \"\"doDynamicSpeedGradually\"\" : true,\n \"\"doDynamicSpeedInteriorShells\"\" : false,\n \"\"doDynamicSpeedOutermostShell\"\" : true,\n \"\"doExponentialDeceleration\"\" : false,\n \"\"doExternalSpurs\"\" : true,\n \"\"doFixedLayerStart\"\" : false,\n \"\"doFixedShellStart\"\" : true,\n \"\"doInfills\"\" : true,\n \"\"doInsets\"\" : true,\n \"\"doInternalSpurs\"\" : false,\n \"\"doMixedRaft\"\" : true,\n \"\"doMixedSupport\"\" : true,\n \"\"doOutlines\"\" : true,\n \"\"doPrintLayerMessages\"\" : false,\n \"\"doPrintProgress\"\" : true,\n \"\"doPurgeWall\"\" : false,\n \"\"doRaft\"\" : false,\n \"\"doSplitLongMoves\"\" : true,\n \"\"doSupport\"\" : false,\n \"\"doSupportUnderBridges\"\" : false,\n \"\"endGcode\"\" : \"\"\"\",\n \"\"exponentialDecelerationMinSpeed\"\" : 0.0,\n \"\"extruderProfiles\"\" : [\n {\n \"\"bridgesExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"bridges\"\",\n \"\"feedDiameter\"\" : 1.769999980926514,\n \"\"feedstockMultiplier\"\" : 0.9300000000000001,\n \"\"firstLayerExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"firstLayer\"\",\n \"\"firstLayerRaftExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"firstLayerRaft\"\",\n \"\"floorSurfaceFillsExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"floorSurfaceFills\"\",\n \"\"infillsExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"infill\"\",\n \"\"insetsExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"insets\"\",\n \"\"layerHeight\"\" : 0.20,\n \"\"maxSparseFillThickness\"\" : 0.10,\n \"\"nozzleDiameter\"\" : 0.40,\n \"\"outlinesExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"outlines\"\",\n \"\"raftBaseExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"raftBase\"\",\n \"\"raftExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"raft\"\",\n \"\"restartExtraDistance\"\" : 0.0,\n \"\"restartExtraDistance2\"\" : 0,\n \"\"restartExtraRate\"\" : 25.0,\n \"\"restartExtraRate2\"\" : -1,\n \"\"restartRate\"\" : 25.0,\n \"\"restartRate2\"\" : 25,\n \"\"retractDistance\"\" : 1.299999952316284,\n \"\"retractDistance2\"\" : 0,\n \"\"retractRate\"\" : 25.0,\n \"\"retractRate2\"\" : 50,\n \"\"roofSurfaceFillsExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"roofSurfaceFills\"\",\n \"\"sparseRoofSurfaceFillsExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"sparseRoofSurfaceFills\"\",\n \"\"toolchangeRestartDistance\"\" : 18.50,\n \"\"toolchangeRestartRate\"\" : 6.0,\n \"\"toolchangeRetractDistance\"\" : 19.0,\n \"\"toolchangeRetractRate\"\" : 6.0\n },\n {\n \"\"bridgesExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"bridges\"\",\n \"\"feedDiameter\"\" : 1.769999980926514,\n \"\"feedstockMultiplier\"\" : 0.9300000000000001,\n \"\"firstLayerExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"firstLayer\"\",\n \"\"firstLayerRaftExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"firstLayerRaft\"\",\n \"\"floorSurfaceFillsExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"floorSurfaceFills\"\",\n \"\"infillsExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"infill\"\",\n \"\"insetsExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"insets\"\",\n \"\"layerHeight\"\" : 0.20,\n \"\"maxSparseFillThickness\"\" : 0.10,\n \"\"nozzleDiameter\"\" : 0.40,\n \"\"outlinesExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"outlines\"\",\n \"\"raftBaseExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"raftBase\"\",\n \"\"raftExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"raft\"\",\n \"\"restartExtraDistance\"\" : 0.0,\n \"\"restartExtraDistance2\"\" : 0,\n \"\"restartExtraRate\"\" : 25.0,\n \"\"restartExtraRate2\"\" : -1,\n \"\"restartRate\"\" : 25.0,\n \"\"restartRate2\"\" : 25,\n \"\"retractDistance\"\" : 1.299999952316284,\n \"\"retractDistance2\"\" : 0,\n \"\"retractRate\"\" : 25.0,\n \"\"retractRate2\"\" : 50,\n \"\"roofSurfaceFillsExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"roofSurfaceFills\"\",\n \"\"sparseRoofSurfaceFillsExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"sparseRoofSurfaceFills\"\",\n \"\"toolchangeRestartDistance\"\" : 18.50,\n \"\"toolchangeRestartRate\"\" : 6.0,\n \"\"toolchangeRetractDistance\"\" : 19.0,\n \"\"toolchangeRetractRate\"\" : 6.0\n }\n ],\n \"\"extruderTemp0\"\" : 208,\n \"\"extruderTemp1\"\" : 200,\n \"\"extrusionProfiles\"\" : {\n \"\"bridges\"\" : {\n \"\"fanSpeed\"\" : 0.50,\n \"\"feedrate\"\" : 40.0\n },\n \"\"firstLayer\"\" : {\n \"\"fanSpeed\"\" : 0.50,\n \"\"feedrate\"\" : 5.0\n },\n \"\"firstLayerRaft\"\" : {\n \"\"fanSpeed\"\" : 0.50,\n \"\"feedrate\"\" : 50.0\n },\n \"\"floorSurfaceFills\"\" : {\n \"\"fanSpeed\"\" : 0.50,\n \"\"feedrate\"\" : 90.0\n },\n \"\"infill\"\" : {\n \"\"fanSpeed\"\" : 0.50,\n \"\"feedrate\"\" : 90.0\n },\n \"\"insets\"\" : {\n \"\"fanSpeed\"\" : 0.50,\n \"\"feedrate\"\" : 90.0\n },\n \"\"outlines\"\" : {\n \"\"fanSpeed\"\" : 0.50,\n \"\"feedrate\"\" : 40.0\n },\n \"\"raft\"\" : {\n \"\"fanSpeed\"\" : 0.50,\n \"\"feedrate\"\" : 90.0\n },\n \"\"raftBase\"\" : {\n \"\"fanSpeed\"\" : 0.50,\n \"\"feedrate\"\" : 10.0\n },\n \"\"roofSurfaceFills\"\" : {\n \"\"fanSpeed\"\" : 0.50,\n \"\"feedrate\"\" : 90.0\n },\n \"\"sparseRoofSurfaceFills\"\" : {\n \"\"fanSpeed\"\" : 0.50,\n \"\"feedrate\"\" : 90.0\n }\n },\n \"\"fixedLayerStartX\"\" : 0.0,\n \"\"fixedLayerStartY\"\" : 0.0,\n \"\"fixedShellStartDirection\"\" : 215.0,\n \"\"floorSolidThickness\"\" : 0,\n \"\"floorSurfaceThickness\"\" : 0,\n \"\"floorThickness\"\" : 2.0,\n \"\"gridSpacingMultiplier\"\" : 0.990,\n \"\"infillDensity\"\" : 0.05000000074505806,\n \"\"infillOrientationInterval\"\" : 90,\n \"\"infillOrientationOffset\"\" : 0,\n \"\"infillOrientationRange\"\" : 90,\n \"\"infillShellSpacingMultiplier\"\" : 0.70,\n \"\"insetDistanceMultiplier\"\" : 1.0,\n \"\"jsonToolpathOutput\"\" : false,\n \"\"layerHeight\"\" : 0.250,\n \"\"leakyConnectionsAdjacentDistance\"\" : 0.0,\n \"\"maxConnectionLength\"\" : 10.0,\n \"\"maxSparseFillThickness\"\" : 0.250,\n \"\"maxSpurWidth\"\" : 0.50,\n \"\"minLayerDuration\"\" : 5.0,\n \"\"minLayerHeight\"\" : 0.010,\n \"\"minRaftBaseGap\"\" : 0.0,\n \"\"minSpeedMultiplier\"\" : 0.30,\n \"\"minSpurLength\"\" : 0.340,\n \"\"minSpurWidth\"\" : 0.120,\n \"\"minThickInfillImprovement\"\" : 1.0,\n \"\"modelFillProfiles\"\" : {},\n \"\"numberOfShells\"\" : 3,\n \"\"platformTemp\"\" : 70,\n \"\"purgeBucketSide\"\" : 4.0,\n \"\"purgeWallBaseFilamentWidth\"\" : 2.0,\n \"\"purgeWallBasePatternLength\"\" : 10.0,\n \"\"purgeWallBasePatternWidth\"\" : 8.0,\n \"\"purgeWallModelOffset\"\" : 2.0,\n \"\"purgeWallPatternWidth\"\" : 2.0,\n \"\"purgeWallSpacing\"\" : 1.0,\n \"\"purgeWallWidth\"\" : 0.50,\n \"\"purgeWallXLength\"\" : 30.0,\n \"\"raftAligned\"\" : true,\n \"\"raftBaseAngle\"\" : 0.0,\n \"\"raftBaseDensity\"\" : 0.6999999880790710,\n \"\"raftBaseLayers\"\" : 1,\n \"\"raftBaseRunGapRatio\"\" : 0.8000000119209290,\n \"\"raftBaseRunLength\"\" : 15.0,\n \"\"raftBaseThickness\"\" : 0.3000000119209290,\n \"\"raftBaseWidth\"\" : 2.50,\n \"\"raftExtraOffset\"\" : 0.0,\n \"\"raftFillProfiles\"\" : {},\n \"\"raftInterfaceAngle\"\" : 45.0,\n \"\"raftInterfaceDensity\"\" : 0.3000000119209290,\n \"\"raftInterfaceLayers\"\" : 2,\n \"\"raftInterfaceThickness\"\" : 0.2700000107288361,\n \"\"raftInterfaceWidth\"\" : 0.4000000059604645,\n \"\"raftModelSpacing\"\" : 0.2199999988079071,\n \"\"raftOutset\"\" : 4.0,\n \"\"raftSurfaceAngle\"\" : 0.0,\n \"\"raftSurfaceLayers\"\" : 3,\n \"\"raftSurfaceShellSpacingMultiplier\"\" : 0.70,\n \"\"raftSurfaceShells\"\" : 2,\n \"\"raftSurfaceThickness\"\" : 0.2700000107288361,\n \"\"roofAnchorMargin\"\" : 0.40,\n \"\"roofSolidThickness\"\" : 0,\n \"\"roofSurfaceThickness\"\" : 0,\n \"\"roofThickness\"\" : 2.0,\n \"\"shellsLeakyConnections\"\" : false,\n \"\"solidFillOrientationInterval\"\" : 90,\n \"\"solidFillOrientationOffset\"\" : -45,\n \"\"solidFillOrientationRange\"\" : 90,\n \"\"sparseInfillPattern\"\" : \"\"hexagonal\"\",\n \"\"splitMinimumDistance\"\" : 0.40,\n \"\"spurOverlap\"\" : 0.0010,\n \"\"startGcode\"\" : \"\"\"\",\n \"\"startPosition\"\" : {\n \"\"x\"\" : -112,\n \"\"y\"\" : -73,\n \"\"z\"\" : 0\n },\n \"\"supportAligned\"\" : true,\n \"\"supportAngle\"\" : 68.0,\n \"\"supportDensity\"\" : 0.2000000029802322,\n \"\"supportExcessive\"\" : false,\n \"\"supportExtraDistance\"\" : 0.50,\n \"\"supportFillProfiles\"\" : {},\n \"\"supportLayerHeight\"\" : 0.250,\n \"\"supportLeakyConnections\"\" : true,\n \"\"supportModelSpacing\"\" : 0.4000000059604645,\n \"\"supportRoofModelSpacing\"\" : 0.4000000059604645,\n \"\"thickLayerThreshold\"\" : 0,\n \"\"thickLayerVolumeMultiplier\"\" : 1,\n \"\"travelSpeedXY\"\" : 150.0,\n \"\"travelSpeedZ\"\" : 23.0,\n \"\"version\"\" : \"\"3.9.3\"\"\n}\n\n\nIf anybody has any ideas please let me know.\n\nThank You\n\",darth pixel,\"I don't know what was the object like in your plans but it looks like your extruder stopped pushing filament well. I had similar effect when I used extensive retraction with low quality filament. In fact filament was to soft and when it was pressed to hobbed pulley/bolt it became flatened and then stopped flowing. So if your case is similar you could check the following:\n\n\nspring tenssion\nknurls\nfilament diameter\n\n\nIt's also worth to check if hobbed pulley is screwed tight on motor shaft.\n\n[edit]\n\nIt could be also caused by too fast retraction if knurls are not sharp enough they can slide on or scrap filament.\n\nWhen you notice that again, stop printing proces, lose springs and pull out filament from hotend and inspect its shape.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n1225,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Excrubulent,3.0576060275493275,4.23088218665031,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,Repetier Host stops sending commands to printer when switching Windows user,\"I'm running Repetier Host v1.6.1 with Repetier Firmware v0.92.9. My computer is running Windows 7 Pro SP1, 64-bit.\n\nIf I set a print going via USB then switch to another user (note: I do not log out), then the pinter's display shows that the command buffer drops from 16 to 0 until it stops printing altogether. If I switch back to the user that is running Repetier Host then the buffer fills up again and the print job resumes.\n\nBefore I updated Repetier Host this didn't happen, I could leave it running while I switched users and the job would run just fine. I'm not sure why this behaviour has changed, but is there any way to get it to run properly under a background user?\n\",darth pixel,\"Maybe you've changed your power settings and that's why your USB port stops working when switching user (for power conservation). I know you've said it was working before Reptier update but maybe it's worth to check.\n\n\nSo go to Start > Control Panel > Power Options\n\n\nFind your (selected) power plan and choose Change plan settings > Change advanced power settings\n\nThen check USB Settings > USB selective suspend settings\n\nto be sure - set both to Disable\n\n\nAnother place to check is My Computer > Manage > Device Manager > Universal Serial Bus controllers\n\n\nAnd here there are at least 2 items to check\n\n\nGeneric USB Hub\nUSB Root Hub\n\n\nboth have tab Power Management and checkbox Allow computer to turn off this device to save power - uncheck them\n\nI know it doesn't sound very wise but who knows... :)\n\",0.0,0.0\n1225,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Excrubulent,3.0576060275493275,4.23088218665031,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,Repetier Host stops sending commands to printer when switching Windows user,\"I'm running Repetier Host v1.6.1 with Repetier Firmware v0.92.9. My computer is running Windows 7 Pro SP1, 64-bit.\n\nIf I set a print going via USB then switch to another user (note: I do not log out), then the pinter's display shows that the command buffer drops from 16 to 0 until it stops printing altogether. If I switch back to the user that is running Repetier Host then the buffer fills up again and the print job resumes.\n\nBefore I updated Repetier Host this didn't happen, I could leave it running while I switched users and the job would run just fine. I'm not sure why this behaviour has changed, but is there any way to get it to run properly under a background user?\n\",JKEngineer,\"Is it possible that in updating Repetier you inadvertently installed it for a single user rather than for everyone? If so, that might account for its stopping when the user is changed. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6078,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Excrubulent,2.8153892694839717,4.777645936443452,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,\"Perplexing Y-axis shifting problem - only in positive y direction, and only on moves of a very specific radius\",\"I'm running a RepRap based ORDBOT Hadron on Repetier firmware version 1.0 that I built from a kit. I've slowly worked out the kinks but this one is an utter doozy.\n\nBasically I occasionally get shifting in the y-axis - the print bed moves on this axis - but only in the positive y direction. Never in the negative y direction. I'm not sure if I'm using those terms correctly, but the bed shifts forwards (negative y), so subsequent print moves are displaced in the positive y direction relative to the rest of the print. I'm calling that a \"\"positive y direction shift\"\".\n\nThe offending y-axis is belt-driven by a single NEMA 17 stepper motor. The belt is tight (not too tight I don't think) and well-aligned. It would be difficult for it to become unaligned or lose tension since it runs along a piece of extruded aluminium that is very rigid.\n\nIt took a long time to notice the pattern. Some prints don't have the problem, and some prints I simply cannot finish no matter what I do. Finally I found a model that reliably reproduces the problem, on the same move, on about 50% or so of its layers.\n\nThis piece is supposed to be straight up & down. Wild.\n\n\n\nThe moves that cause the shift are on this red line.\n\n\n\nThe issue seems to only occur on curved moves with a radius of approximately 2-3 mm that point their convex side towards the y-negative direction. Larger or smaller radius moves don't cause the problem. In fact sharp turns don't cause the problem either. Only 2-3 mm radius moves with their convex side towards y-negative produce the issue. No other kind of move causes the problem.\n\nI think the offending move is highlighted here in red, but it might be one of the two moves either side of it. I haven't been able to narrow it down.\n\n\n\nAlso note that there is no opportunity on this part of the G-code for the hotend to snag on the model, and I see no evidence of this when it happens. If it were, I imagine a small model like this would simply dislodge, rather than jamming the y-axis.\n\nI've tried lowering the y-axis acceleration, to the point where you can hear the y-axis spooling up and down as it slowly accelerates to and fro, and the problem remains. What is especially baffling is that if I leave the y-axis acceleration at 300 mm/s2, the shifting never happens in the negative y-direction, only in the positive. And even if I lower it to 50 mm/s2, the shifting still happens towards positive y. So somehow this problem is independent of y-axis acceleration as set in the firmware.\n\nOne thing I have noticed, is that even if you can visibly see how slowly the y-axis accelerates, when the problem occurs, the y-axis seems to launch itself into overdrive and whip around that corner as fast as possible, to the point that it overwhelms itself. I'm almost certain the moves that cause the skip are breaking the acceleration limit, but I have no idea what to do about it. It seems like a bug in the firmware, like instead of reducing the acceleration it's increasing the acceleration.\n\nI would guess that somewhere in the code there should be a mathf.abs() around a term, so it slows down the move whether it's positive or negative, but that's pure speculation.\n\nThe above paragraphs no longer appear to be true. I changed the y acceleration limit to 50 mm/s2 and the piece printed perfectly. It's possible the firmware update made a difference. I've also enabled EEPROM, so that may have changed something as well. It's also possible that by re-compiling the firmware every time I made a change in the past, I made an error that misled me about the problem. I will try to reproduce the problem and post an answer about it if I manage to, otherwise I may just close the question.\n\nI'm hesitant to say the firmware is the problem because a) I don't know enough to confirm it and b) it makes the solution super difficult: either wait for a solution from the developers, or write it myself. Whilst I could find & write the solution, it would take a lot of work and I'm hoping it's simpler than that.\n\nI've recently upgraded the Repetier firmware from 0.92 to 1.0, and the problem has remained. This also has happened when controlling the printer from Repetier Host, Repetier Server and Octopi, so I'm confident it's not the controller. I'm also using Slic3r.\n\nHere are some photos of the y-axis belt as requested:\n\nMotor:\n\n\nIdler:\n\n\",StarWind0,\"You see this for a few reason.\nFirst you are going too fast and you are getting belt shift from the whip lash. You can mitigate that by going slower and adjusting your Jerk settings to lower. Though usually this is not a consistent wall. Usually you see this.\n\nThat said it is likely you have not adjusted the current to your stepper motors correctly. I don't know if your system has pololus, but you will want to adjust your current carefully. If you hear thudding from your stepper or the stepper cannot move, you have not done this correctly. Note I've fried many boards adjusting these, make sure to do it with the board unplugged or with a ceramic screw driver. Here is a more complete guide.\n\nA last option is your system has too much friction as Ultimaker points out in their trouble shooting guide. You said your belts are very tight. I wonder if you have them So tight you are actually creating binding. Check to make sure the belts are not rubbing in any way.\n\n\n Leaning: A leaning print is usually caused by friction causing the\n print head to move a shorter distance than expected. Make sure that\n the short belts that connect the stepper motors to the axes do not rub\n up against the main body of the printer. Similarly make sure that the\n pulleys on the stepper motors that the belts ride over are not\n touching the side of the printer. If they are you must move the pulley\n closer to the stepper motor.\n\n\nMy bet is it's current.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n1234,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,HenrikS,3.452496054252184,5.90163234342589,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.9505769891325135,Grease for PLA sprocket,\"I am attempting to construct model tank tracks with accompanying wheels and sprockets. All parts will be printed in PLA. The tracks will be driven by electric motors.\n\nWhat would be a suitable grease for this project to minimize friction without damaging the plastics.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"You may find a solution with the common lubricant containing PTFE, often called Super Lube. It is described in manufacturer's literature as non-reactive with virtually everything. It is available at a reasonable price as plumber's grease (look for either Teflon or PTFE in the ingredients) in various quantity containers. When used on metal, you may get black residue. With plastic, some color of the plastic will appear as the surfaces wear. It has good sticking power too.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n1234,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,HenrikS,3.452496054252184,5.90163234342589,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.9505769891325135,Grease for PLA sprocket,\"I am attempting to construct model tank tracks with accompanying wheels and sprockets. All parts will be printed in PLA. The tracks will be driven by electric motors.\n\nWhat would be a suitable grease for this project to minimize friction without damaging the plastics.\n\",darth pixel,\"I use cosmetic vaseline - petroleum jelly. Usually it is white to transparent and odorless. It's cheap and available in all drugstores and cosmetics stores.\n\nAs suggested by Tom van der Zanden I'm adding additional info about interactions of vaseline and plastics.\nI've found many web sites which claim that vaseline can damage plastics but none of them really proved that statement. There is nothing about it neither on producers sites nor wikipedia or any other believable sources I've found. So according to it and my practice I'm pretty sure that vaseline won't damage popular plastics (including common filaments).\n\nThe only information I've found is that vaseline can damage natural rubber but I cannot confirm that on my own.\n\nOf course it might not be true for some materials so be careful and check the interactions first on invisible side or on refuses.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n1239,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,amra,2.528907649931287,4.651595833665816,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Failing slow extrusion after upgrade to E3D hotend,\"I recently upgraded to a E3D full hotend and I started to have problems with slowly printed parts. After I print first object and start next one, then the first layer has serious issue.\n\n\n\nThe first two test were extruded around 10mm/s, the right one around 15mm/s. The material is PLA (fillamentum.com) at temperature 210°C and nozzle diameter is 0.4mm. The Rebel II RepRap printer uses RAMPS with marlin firmware. I use Slic3r and Pronterface SW. \n\nI didn't find answer in following troubleshooting guides:\n\n\nSimplify3D - Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide\nA visual Ultimaker troubleshooting guide\nRepRap - Print Troubleshooting Pictorial Guide\nall3dp.com - 16 Common 3D Printing Problems (And Solutions)\n\n\nDo you have an idea what can cause this issue?\n\nUpdate\n\nI did a new print, where I just heat the hotend and start printing immediately. This is the result: \n\n\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"\n After I print first object and start next one, then the first layer has serious issue.\n\n\nAre you leaving the hotend on between prints? If you leave an E3D hotend heated up while it's not printing, heat will slowly migrate up the heatbreak and start softening the filament there, which will subsequently become stuck. You should turn off the heat immediately after finishing your print (or, ideally, just have your end G-code contain a command to turn the hotend off).\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n1239,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,amra,2.528907649931287,4.651595833665816,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Failing slow extrusion after upgrade to E3D hotend,\"I recently upgraded to a E3D full hotend and I started to have problems with slowly printed parts. After I print first object and start next one, then the first layer has serious issue.\n\n\n\nThe first two test were extruded around 10mm/s, the right one around 15mm/s. The material is PLA (fillamentum.com) at temperature 210°C and nozzle diameter is 0.4mm. The Rebel II RepRap printer uses RAMPS with marlin firmware. I use Slic3r and Pronterface SW. \n\nI didn't find answer in following troubleshooting guides:\n\n\nSimplify3D - Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide\nA visual Ultimaker troubleshooting guide\nRepRap - Print Troubleshooting Pictorial Guide\nall3dp.com - 16 Common 3D Printing Problems (And Solutions)\n\n\nDo you have an idea what can cause this issue?\n\nUpdate\n\nI did a new print, where I just heat the hotend and start printing immediately. This is the result: \n\n\n\",darth pixel,\"I bet your old and new extruders have different hobbed pulley/bolt effective diameter.\nIt looks like your new extruder has smaller hobbed diameter that's why it pushes too less material.\n\nIn MatterControl application there is a slider which allows user to tuneup extrude ratio on the fly (while printing). You coud check it so it would confirm the issue.\n\nIn Slic3r you could go to\n\nPrinter Settings > Advanced > Extrusion width\n\nand experiment with it (especially with Default extrusion width)\n\nBoth (Slic3r and MC) could answer your question if it's extrusion ratio issue. If you confirm that - you can proceed with calibration. Here is method to calibrate extruder flow and general calibration article here.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n1244,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Shpigford,3.267423727073639,5.644931821660323,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.548335113978322,2.3995491493854546,Raft hard to remove?,\"I've been having a hard time lately getting the raft off of my ABS prints.\n\nIs that a symptom of either a nozzle or bed that are too hot? Or is there some other factor I should be looking in to?\n\nI have an UP mini that I've modified both the nozzle and bed to customize the temperatures on.\n\nBed gets heated to 100˚C and nozzle is either 266˚C for UP ABS filament or 236˚C for off-brand ABS filament.\n\",tbm0115,\"A couple things to consider:\n\n\nEnsure that your build plate is flat and level. An un-parallel HBP could result in the object \"\"welding\"\" to the raft.\nTurn down your nozzle temperature. It is likely that the material is hotter than it needs as it is extruding. This results in a slower \"\"cool-down rate\"\". So, if it takes longer for the filament to cool between the raft and the first layers of the object. Therefore, cooling together in a manner that somewhat binds them.\nPersonally, 266C seems VERY high to me. I've primarily only used ABS on my MakerBot and have successfully printed with 225C +-5C nozzle temperature and 110C +-2C HBP temperature.\nTypically you want to extrude slightly above the melting point. You don't want to liquefy the material, but make it pliable enough to bond it to other layers of material (or a BP).\n\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n1244,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Shpigford,3.267423727073639,5.644931821660323,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.548335113978322,2.3995491493854546,Raft hard to remove?,\"I've been having a hard time lately getting the raft off of my ABS prints.\n\nIs that a symptom of either a nozzle or bed that are too hot? Or is there some other factor I should be looking in to?\n\nI have an UP mini that I've modified both the nozzle and bed to customize the temperatures on.\n\nBed gets heated to 100˚C and nozzle is either 266˚C for UP ABS filament or 236˚C for off-brand ABS filament.\n\",Jason King,\"You could try reducing the temperature of the hotend. If you are using too high of a temperature, the ABS will \"\"run\"\" and over-adhere to the raft. \n\nWhat slicer are you using? I have found that raft quality is drastically affected by the slicer I've used. In my experience, MakerBot and Simplify3D produce the nicest, easiest to remove rafts. I've also had success with Cura.\n\nBarring changing the temperature of your hotend or switching to a new slicer, you could always try printing without the raft. From the sound of it, your bed is hot enough. Do you have Kapton on the bed? If so, give printing without a raft a shot. If sticking is an issue, try painting a slurry of ABS and Acetone onto the bed before starting.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n1251,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mhelvens,3.9045305118418514,6.457161894924817,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.929104701733314,3.585260288142579,How to choose an extrusion temperature?,\"From what I've been able to find out, online sources recommend around 205ºC for PLA and around 240ºC for ABS. But these are only guidelines, of course. Optimal printing temperature can be different depending on the printer, the filament, the model and other slicer settings.\n\nFor example, I've had success printing black PLA at 190ºC, but silver PLA of the same brand is giving me trouble. I'm having a hard time figuring out the general rules. So I would like to see a general guide for this, based on (at least) the following questions:\n\n\nWhich known factors before a print can help determine the right extrusion temperature? Obvious example: ABS vs PLA\nWhat can happen during or after a print when the temperature is too low?\nWhat can happen during or after a print when the temperature is too high?\n\n\nAn answer to the first question could take the form of a lookup table, or similar. The second and third could help someone adjust their temperature based on the symptoms of a failed print.\n\nI understand that the failure or success of a print can depend on many more factors than extrusion temperature, but I didn't want to make this question too general. I may later ask the same question for other settings (e.g., print speed). However, do let me know if this question should be expanded or improved to make it more useful.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Printing temperature basics\n\nManufacturers generally specify a somewhat wide range of printing temperatures, and what temperature you should actually need can only be determined by trial and error:\n\n\nThe thermistor in your hotend is not 100 % accurate and may have an offset of a few degrees compared to its actual temperature.\nYour hotend has a small temperature gradient, the place where the plastic is melted may have a higher/lower temperature compared to the temperature of your thermistor.\n\n\n2 is further exacerbated by\n\n\nAs you print faster, you need more heat. The cold filament rapidly moving through your hotend will cool it down locally, meaning that the temperature will be cooler than what the thermistor measures. Faster prints equal bumps in the temperature up to 10 °C, and for a really slow print you might turn it down 10 °C from where you normally are.\nThis is a minor issue, but different colors of the same brand and material might work better at different temperatures. The pigments used can affect the melting point somewhat. Different brands also might have different temperatures.\n\n\nSome symptoms may give you a guide as to how to adjust your temperature:\n\nPrinting too hot\n\n\nSmall/slow prints may not solidify quickly enough, leaving you with an ugly blob.\nStringing/bad bridging.\nPlastic in the heatbreak may soften, leading to clogging.\nYou might burn/degrade the material (but for this you would really need to go outside of the temperature range).\n\n\nPrinting too cool\n\n\nToo much force required to extrude, leading so skipping/grinding of the filament drive.\nLayer delamination: the plastic needs to be hot enough to partially melt the layer below it and stick to it. Objects printed at a colder temperature tend to be weaker at the layer boundaries.\n\n\nFurthermore, hot prints can sometimes have a more glossy finish than colder prints.\n\",3.367452517504837,2.0769199823829045\n1251,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mhelvens,3.9045305118418514,6.457161894924817,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.929104701733314,3.585260288142579,How to choose an extrusion temperature?,\"From what I've been able to find out, online sources recommend around 205ºC for PLA and around 240ºC for ABS. But these are only guidelines, of course. Optimal printing temperature can be different depending on the printer, the filament, the model and other slicer settings.\n\nFor example, I've had success printing black PLA at 190ºC, but silver PLA of the same brand is giving me trouble. I'm having a hard time figuring out the general rules. So I would like to see a general guide for this, based on (at least) the following questions:\n\n\nWhich known factors before a print can help determine the right extrusion temperature? Obvious example: ABS vs PLA\nWhat can happen during or after a print when the temperature is too low?\nWhat can happen during or after a print when the temperature is too high?\n\n\nAn answer to the first question could take the form of a lookup table, or similar. The second and third could help someone adjust their temperature based on the symptoms of a failed print.\n\nI understand that the failure or success of a print can depend on many more factors than extrusion temperature, but I didn't want to make this question too general. I may later ask the same question for other settings (e.g., print speed). However, do let me know if this question should be expanded or improved to make it more useful.\n\",nscan,\"\nSome manufacturers give a recommended temperature which would be the best place to start at and adjust from there. Otherwise you could print calibration objects and find the best temp that way. Here is a temp tower for that purpose. Mostly it is a trial and error process with all the different printers out there. What might work on one printer may not work on another.\nThe object may come apart if the temperature is too low as the plastic won't bond well between layers. You may also get a rough surface on the object and the filament may also jam in the hotend as well.\nNormally temperatures that are too high, your bridging wont be as good and you will get a lot of stringing. Stringing example, more filament will ooze out before retracting if your temperature is too high. Your overhangs may also curl at the edges as well.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n1275,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mhelvens,2.8153892694839717,5.432163698411899,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Heated bed thermistor placement,\"I just recently upgraded my Printrbot Simple Metal with a heated bed (and longer x-axis). I looked up some tutorials, and all of them placed the thermistor as in the picture on the left below, so I did too. However, the design of the heat plate seems to strongly suggest thermistor placement as in the picture on the right, inside the small hole near the center.\n\n \n\nI can certainly see the upside of that. The reported temperature may overshoot the average bed temperature (the reasoning used in the tutorials I read), but most of my prints are built in the center of the bed, and the center placement would surely make the temperature control system more responsive.\n\nWhat are the pros and cons of these placements? And what would be the proper technique for putting the sensor in the center? Should I still use kapton tape? Do I need to make sure the thermistor makes physical contact with the aluminum of the print bed?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"It doesn't make a great deal of difference where you place the thermistor; do whatever is most convenient for you. The temperature of the heated bed is not very critical, and some inaccuracy in the measurement is perfectly fine. The point is to keep the print from cooling down too fast, and whether the bed is at 95C or 93C makes little difference.\n\nThe pros and cons of thermistor placement are exactly as you describe: in either case the center of the bed will be hotter than the edges. Placing the thermistor in the center the temperature of the center will equal the setpoint, while the edges are cooler than the setpoint. Placing the thermistor at the edge the edge will be at the setpoint while the center will be hotter than the setpoint. Placing the sensor at the center you would need to use a slightly lower setpoint to get the same result compared to having the sensor at the edge.\n\nIt is possible the holes in the PCB are meant for if the PCB is used with a different printer. In any case, soldering the thermistor to the pads and placing it in the hole is acceptable, kapton tape wouldn't be required then (but can't hurt either). It would be best if the thermistor made good contact with the heated bed surface, using (non-conductive!) thermal paste would be convenient for this (but not strictly required).\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n1275,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mhelvens,2.8153892694839717,5.432163698411899,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Heated bed thermistor placement,\"I just recently upgraded my Printrbot Simple Metal with a heated bed (and longer x-axis). I looked up some tutorials, and all of them placed the thermistor as in the picture on the left below, so I did too. However, the design of the heat plate seems to strongly suggest thermistor placement as in the picture on the right, inside the small hole near the center.\n\n \n\nI can certainly see the upside of that. The reported temperature may overshoot the average bed temperature (the reasoning used in the tutorials I read), but most of my prints are built in the center of the bed, and the center placement would surely make the temperature control system more responsive.\n\nWhat are the pros and cons of these placements? And what would be the proper technique for putting the sensor in the center? Should I still use kapton tape? Do I need to make sure the thermistor makes physical contact with the aluminum of the print bed?\n\",darth pixel,\"Depending on thermistor type you can get values from around 1ohm/C to 0.01ohm/C\nso placing it on particulat place on heatbed (HB) could be very important. If objects are placed in the center then it's quite obwious that thermistor should be placed also in the middle.\n\nAnother issue in terms of thermistors are the wires. Because thermistors can be so sensitive then wires should have as less influence as possible on its temperature capacity. That's why wires and thermistor legs are so thin. Generally thiner than regular element's legs.\n\nAnswering your question - I would say it's better to put thermistor in the center hole, to use thermal grease in the hole so thermistor would have contact with HB. And personally I would use special thin wires to connect thermistor to the board. Kapton tape is then usefull to position thermistor head in the hole and in the thermal grease. Have a look on the picture.\n\n\n\nI have such configuration. (In fact I got additional insulation as mentioned in this thread).\n\nI would not recommend to use circuit board tracks as a thermistor connectors at all, but it's my opinion of course.\n\n[edit]\n\nPlease be careful - thermal grease can be electrical conductor or insulator. You should choose insulator because short circuit thermistor legs will cause measuring impossible.\n\n[edit2]\n\nAs you know HB is not even necessary when you print PLA so in this case it can be even better to not have heating at all than to overheat the bed. Because if you put your thermistor near to the edge of HB then (as said by Leo Ervin) the difference can be at level of 20C so if you heat around 70C and you get 90C your model can become soft on the bed surface and it will loose dimensions or you'll get elephant foot.\n\nAs stated in the comments - it's not really big deal whether you measure the temperature in the center of somewhere around. The issue is what level of perfection is ok for you. \n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n1277,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mhelvens,3.452496054252184,4.754356729115745,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.306096197889172,Do I need to recalibrate z-probe offset every time I switch to a different layer height?,\"It occurs to me that I'm never really thinking about layer height when I calibrate my z-probe offset. This is obviously an oversight, because I'll want my nozzle to start higher for 0.3mm layers than for 0.1mm layers.\n\nAfter this realization comes the question: Do I need to recalibrate every time I switch to a different layer height? Or can slicers store a reference layer height + probe offset and just deduce the proper starting height for every print? Or is it smartest to keep the 1st layer height constant throughout my prints to spare myself this frustration?\n\nIf it matters, my printer is the Printrbot Simple Metal, and my goto slicer is Cura.\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"All modern slicers adjust the nozzle position for the first layer in accordance with your chosen layer height. You can see this in your gcode if you slice files with different layer heights. Before you add special slicer settings and offsets, if you print 0.1mm layers, the nozzle will start at Z=0.1mm, and if you print 0.3mm layers, the nozzle will start at Z=0.3mm.\n\nThere are two reasons this is more complex and less reliable than it seems:\n\nDifferent slicers assume different initial tramming gaps. And your actual tramming gap may not match that assumption. If the slicer thinks your nozzle is leveled at Z=0 with a real physical gap of 0.1mm to start with, that means gcode Z=0.1mm is actually a 0.2mm gap that must be filled with plastic. So the slicer must compensate by starting lower than the nominal layer height. \n\nSo what works perfectly for one slicer won't necessarily work correctly for another slicer. And if you tram with a thinner object than the slicer expects (say a post-it note instead of business card) then your first layer will be off. This is why I personally prefer physical build plate leveling mid-print using screws while watching the strands go down. It bypasses all the assumptions about tramming gaps and just gives you the correct result. (Or you can do the same thing with babystepping in firmware that supports that.)\n\nThe other issue is that people use lots of weird, ad hoc slicer tricks to get their first layer to stick. Things like printing the first layer much hotter, or at half speed, or squashed way down and over-extruded, or at 60% layer height, or at 200% extrusion width, will all affect the extrusion volume calibration and the space-filling behavior of the molten plastic flowing onto the bed. The slicer doesn't really have the ability to understand \"\"your\"\" first-layer adhesion recipe. \n\nThe combination of incorrect/unknown tramming gap and person-specific first-layer settings is why the slicer can't always get the first layer height and extrusion volume correct across all layer heights. Within some fairly reasonable assumptions, the slicer is smart enough to always correctly relate extruder flow and nozzle position so it fills the space between the nozzle and whatever surface you're printing onto. But if you break those assumptions, it may perform differently for different settings. \n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n1277,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mhelvens,3.452496054252184,4.754356729115745,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.306096197889172,Do I need to recalibrate z-probe offset every time I switch to a different layer height?,\"It occurs to me that I'm never really thinking about layer height when I calibrate my z-probe offset. This is obviously an oversight, because I'll want my nozzle to start higher for 0.3mm layers than for 0.1mm layers.\n\nAfter this realization comes the question: Do I need to recalibrate every time I switch to a different layer height? Or can slicers store a reference layer height + probe offset and just deduce the proper starting height for every print? Or is it smartest to keep the 1st layer height constant throughout my prints to spare myself this frustration?\n\nIf it matters, my printer is the Printrbot Simple Metal, and my goto slicer is Cura.\n\",Leo Ervin,\"The first layer is usually squished more to help with the adhesion. On top of that with ABS there's a bit of deformation even if the print doesn't lift. So spare yourself the frustration, FDM 3d printers aren't that precise themselves for you to care about this.\n\",0.0,0.0\n1323,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mhelvens,2.8153892694839717,4.427411842334259,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,\"How to line up (x,y) print area between hardware and software?\",\"I'm trying to line up the physical print bed of my printer (Printrbot Simple Metal) to the virtual print area of the slicer (Cura). So far, they've never been properly aligned. It was never that big a problem because, worst case scenario, my print would simply not be dead-center on the bed. But I've decided to try and fix it.\n\nHere are pictures of a test model in Cura, and the resulting physical print:\n\n\n\n\nWhat's the proper way to align the two? It seems I just got lucky with the x-axis here (though note that the BuildTak surface is a bit off center). But obviously the y-axis needs fixing. The print needs to start a little lower, because print-head couldn't reach the highest point, and the y-axis motor slipped to compensate.\n\nIdeally, the fixed parameters of the print bed size and offset would be set by the Marlin firmware (EEPROM?). But I also need to be able to do a little offset tweaking on the software side for when I need to replace the BuildTak mat.\n\n\n\nEdit: I tried M206 (home offset) commands, but the result is definitely not what we want. I cancelled these early.\n\n\n\n\nThe upper print has M206 Y-15, the lower print has M206 Y15. What seems to happen is that the coordinate system is not physically shifted. Instead, the area is 'cropped'. All filament that should go outside the boundaries is actually extruded 'on the edge', resulting in an ugly blob.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The problem you are experiencing is because the position where the y endstop is triggered does not correspond to y = 0, but perhaps corresponds to y = 15 (replace 15 by the offset you're seeing). You can perhaps solve this by adjusting the endstop to trigger at the correct point, but you can also adjust this behavior in software: In your start G-code, after the homing (G28) command, insert a G92 Y15 to tell the printer that the current position (reached after homing) is actually y = 15.\n\nAnother option is to use the M206 command to permanently store the offset in EEPROM (rather than needing to provide it in the start code each time).\n\nIf your printer moves towards max rather than min, the same applies, but consider that the offset may be caused by the bed size defined in your firmware not corresponding to the bed size set in your slicer.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n1328,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mhelvens,3.9045305118418514,5.145939936880242,0.0,5.646830619998737,3.749318730431847,2.880918201452841,Pulling filament through long tubes,\"I'm setting up my printer in a small room, and I thought I'd come up with a system for more easily swapping filaments, but I'm not yet sure it is feasible.\n\nRather than physically replace the spool, I'd like to hang most of my spools on the wall, where they can rotate, and only swap filament leads in the (direct drive) extruder. The spools would be placed at some distance from the extruder, and at various angles. So to make sure the filament is pulled from the spool at the proper angle, and to avoid breaking it, I think it should probably run through a flexible tube to reach the printer.\n\nI know such tubes are used for Bowden style extruders, but what I'm proposing is different in at least two ways: [1] the extruder motor would be pulling (not pushing) filament through the tube and [2] the tube would be longer than normal, e.g., between 1 and 2 meters.\n\nIs this plan feasible? Or are the problems I am not foreseeing?\n\n\n\nEdit 1: I don't know where I got 1-2 meters from. The distance is actually closer to 50cm.\n\nEdit 2: To clarify my proposed setup, here's a crude mockup:\n\n\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Yes, this is feasible. You should constrain the tube at both ends, this prevents the spool from pulling up on the extruder. This approach is known as reverse bowden setup.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1328,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mhelvens,3.9045305118418514,5.145939936880242,0.0,5.646830619998737,3.749318730431847,2.880918201452841,Pulling filament through long tubes,\"I'm setting up my printer in a small room, and I thought I'd come up with a system for more easily swapping filaments, but I'm not yet sure it is feasible.\n\nRather than physically replace the spool, I'd like to hang most of my spools on the wall, where they can rotate, and only swap filament leads in the (direct drive) extruder. The spools would be placed at some distance from the extruder, and at various angles. So to make sure the filament is pulled from the spool at the proper angle, and to avoid breaking it, I think it should probably run through a flexible tube to reach the printer.\n\nI know such tubes are used for Bowden style extruders, but what I'm proposing is different in at least two ways: [1] the extruder motor would be pulling (not pushing) filament through the tube and [2] the tube would be longer than normal, e.g., between 1 and 2 meters.\n\nIs this plan feasible? Or are the problems I am not foreseeing?\n\n\n\nEdit 1: I don't know where I got 1-2 meters from. The distance is actually closer to 50cm.\n\nEdit 2: To clarify my proposed setup, here's a crude mockup:\n\n\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"This shouldn't be too much of an issue, as long as:\n\n\nYou guide the filament properly to avoid breakage (at both ends as Tom mentions)\nYou avoid too much friction between the pulling extruder motor and the spool itself.\n\n\nYou mention that you consider using a 1-2 meter teflon tube to guide the filament. Although this might work, long teflon tubes will increase the friction from pulling the filament. Furthermore, I really doubt having such a long tube will be beneficial at all; quite on the contrary, I think it could be rather impractical. Most likely, having simple guides at both ends (whether its tube stubs or rings) will suffice.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1519,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mhelvens,4.451824357011064,6.356593765803682,4.072585167927022,3.1880595895805834,5.1118830730594205,4.837794676599878,\"What are the parts that make up a hotend, and what do they do?\",\"My first and only 3D printer is a Printrbot Simple Metal, which has a hotend that doesn't expose any of its internal parts. Easy for beginners, I suppose: \"\"The hotend is that tube that heats up the plastic and deposits it on the print bed.\"\"\n\n \n\nBut I've been trying to learn more, and many hotends out there don't look quite as simple. My Printrbot hotend probably isn't as simple as it looks, either.\n\nWhat are the parts that make up a hotend, and what do they do?\n\n(PS: This is a general question, not specifically about the two example hotends above.)\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"This varies by hotend design. The following is a list of components which you might find in a typical hotend, but note that different designs may integrate these components to some extent. For instance, on the J-head the heat block, nozzle and heatbreak are all one and the same component whereas on the E3D hotends these are all separate parts.\n\n\nNozzle: This is the part where the filament comes out. It takes in the molten filament (typically as a bead of 1.75mm/3mm) and tapers down to the nozzle size (typically around 0.4mm). These are typically made of brass for its good heat conductivity, but brass is not suitable for printing abrasive materials (such as glow in the dark and metal-filled filaments) so sometimes (hardened) stainless steel is used.\nHeater Block: Usually made from aluminium, the heater block joins the nozzle to the heat break and holds the heater cartridge and thermistor.\nHeater Cartridge: most hotends use a ceramic heater cartridge, though some older designs use power resistors or nichrome wire. This component is, as the name suggests, responsible for heating up the hotend. The heat block usually clamps around the heater cartridge to provide good contact.\nThermistor: This part senses the temperature of the heat block. It is usually a small glass bead with two wires attached (which are typically insulated with glass fiber or teflon). For high-temperature printing, a thermocouple may be used in stead.\nHeat Break: this is the part where hot meets cold. It usually takes the form of a thin tube and is made of stainless steel for its low thermal conductivity. The goal is generally to have the transition be as short as possible so as little of the filament is in a molten state as possible. It connects the heat block to the heat sink.\nHeat Sink: the purpose of the heat sink is to cool down the cold side of the heat break. It is typically cooled with a fan. Most heat sinks also have a standard groove-mount for mounting to your printer. The heat sink usually has grooves to increase its surface area and cooling capability.\nTeflon Liner: some hotends have a PTFE liner that guides the filament through the heat break into the nozzle. This makes it easier to print PLA, but compared to an all-metal hotend, limits the temperatures at which you can print (making it difficult to print PETG and impossible to print polycarbonate).\n\n\nThe ubis hotend you mentioned is a bit simpler than this, and simply uses a big chunk of PEEK in place of the heat break/sink. PEEK has very low thermal conductivity and thus passive cooling is sufficient. However, PEEK limits the temperatures at which you can print.\n\nHere is an illustration outlining these components on an E3D V6 hotend:\n\n\n\nNote that in this image the Teflon liner only goes into the heat sink, and not into the heat break or block. This means the maximum temperature is not limited by the Teflon, but if it did go all the way in (as is the case with, for instance, the Lite6) then it would be.\n\",4.38115673424798,2.0769199823829045\n1519,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mhelvens,4.451824357011064,6.356593765803682,4.072585167927022,3.1880595895805834,5.1118830730594205,4.837794676599878,\"What are the parts that make up a hotend, and what do they do?\",\"My first and only 3D printer is a Printrbot Simple Metal, which has a hotend that doesn't expose any of its internal parts. Easy for beginners, I suppose: \"\"The hotend is that tube that heats up the plastic and deposits it on the print bed.\"\"\n\n \n\nBut I've been trying to learn more, and many hotends out there don't look quite as simple. My Printrbot hotend probably isn't as simple as it looks, either.\n\nWhat are the parts that make up a hotend, and what do they do?\n\n(PS: This is a general question, not specifically about the two example hotends above.)\n\",darth pixel,\"picture on the left\n\nThis hotend is made out of PEEK plastics (beige). It can work in temperature upto 250C. As it is also good heat insulator then it doesn't need to have cooling fan. Red part on this picture is just a cover (insulator) of the heater which heatup nozzle (gold). Black are just wires and connectors.\n\npicture on the right\n\nThis hotend is metal so it needs two things - cooling fan and heat barrier. Beginning fron the left - red wires are connected to (silver) block which is heater itself. Between the block and this round silver part (which is a heatsink) there is heat barrier (thin pipe which is poor heat conductor). Heatsink has plastic funnel (blue) which directs an airflow from fan (black) through heatsink.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n3129,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mhelvens,3.452496054252184,5.585659909422533,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.749318730431847,3.4319460411998994,Using CAT6 cables for 3D printer motor / sensors / fans,\"I'm considering using CAT6 cables to connect my printer's extruder assembly to the control board. They seem like an elegant solution, but I've read conflicting opinions online on whether or not this would be feasible.\n\nI would like to know if CAT6 cables can handle the required current, whether I should be worried about electromagnetic interference or other problems, and how I should pair up the wires. Cable length would be 30cm max.\n\nHere are the relevant parts:\n\n\nE3D heater cartridge (2 wires)\nE3D thermistor cartridge (2 wires)\n30mm hotend fan (2 wires)\nZ-axis auto-leveling probe (3 wires)\nNEMA 17 extruder motor (4 wires)\n50mm part cooling fan (2 wires)\n\n\n[cable A] I imagine I would use one CAT6 cable for parts 1-4, which form a logical unit (and in the future I might combine them into a removable module). I've been given to understand that power for the fan can be spliced from the z-probe or heater cartridge, so 8 wires should be enough.\n\n[cable B] I would use a second CAT6 cable for parts 5 and 6. There will be two spare wires, so I could potentially double the bandwidth for the motor.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The ampacity question is not completely answerable because CAT6 does not specify wire gauge, so the current limit will depend on the specific gauge you get. CAT6 can be anywhere from 22 AWG to 24 AWG, and depending on who you ask this can be good for as much as 7A or as little as 0.5A. Given that you will have a bunch of wires in a bundle, this may cause them to heat up more than if they were in free air. For the steppers (1-2A) a single wire should suffice, but for the heater (around 3-4A) you might want to double up.\n\nEMI will likely not cause any problems regardless of how you wire things up. CAT6 cables have the wires twisted in pairs of 2. Some people recommend to take advantage of these pairs: the +12V and GND of the heater should use a pair, each of the two coils of the steppers should have their own separate pairs. The reasoning behind this is that with equal current flowing in opposite directions in each wire of the pair, the generated electromagnetic fields will cancel out.\n\nTwisted pairs are usually used when dealing with multiple pairs of wires that are carrying high frequency signals that might affect each other. The main concern for crosstalk in this application is if the stepper motor might cause the endstop to be erroneously triggered, but this is only a concern during homing when the feedrate (and thus frequency of the signal) is low anyways.\n\",3.2133663407215876,0.0\n3129,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mhelvens,3.452496054252184,5.585659909422533,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.749318730431847,3.4319460411998994,Using CAT6 cables for 3D printer motor / sensors / fans,\"I'm considering using CAT6 cables to connect my printer's extruder assembly to the control board. They seem like an elegant solution, but I've read conflicting opinions online on whether or not this would be feasible.\n\nI would like to know if CAT6 cables can handle the required current, whether I should be worried about electromagnetic interference or other problems, and how I should pair up the wires. Cable length would be 30cm max.\n\nHere are the relevant parts:\n\n\nE3D heater cartridge (2 wires)\nE3D thermistor cartridge (2 wires)\n30mm hotend fan (2 wires)\nZ-axis auto-leveling probe (3 wires)\nNEMA 17 extruder motor (4 wires)\n50mm part cooling fan (2 wires)\n\n\n[cable A] I imagine I would use one CAT6 cable for parts 1-4, which form a logical unit (and in the future I might combine them into a removable module). I've been given to understand that power for the fan can be spliced from the z-probe or heater cartridge, so 8 wires should be enough.\n\n[cable B] I would use a second CAT6 cable for parts 5 and 6. There will be two spare wires, so I could potentially double the bandwidth for the motor.\n\",Pete,\"I've used some cat 6 in one of my printers and just to be safe I used 4 wires for the extruder heat block, 2+, 2- \n\nOn the thermistors 1 is more than enough for each +/-. \n\nI also stripped the thick shielding off and used some 'curly' cable organizer in it's place, not the shielding on the wires but the cord. So i could fit 2 cables in slightly more than the same space as one. You are probably doing this to keep it organized too but this is an option if you run out of space in your wire runs.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3350,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mhelvens,2.1782824847157594,4.7192527328436915,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Increasing hotend temperature to compensate for increased filament throughput,\"It seems that when filament throughput is increased (by increasing movement speed or extrusion width/height), printing temperature also has to be increased to compensate, because the filament will have less time to spend in the melting zone. That much seems clear from practical experience. But I have two questions (or to be more precise, one question on two levels):\n\n\nIs there a good rule of thumb for this, to help people calibrate their settings?\nHow much do we know about the formula governing this behavior? Can we calculate the required hotend temperature precisely based on the increased throughput?\n\n\nFor anyone who has studied physics / thermodynamics, this is probably simple stuff. But has the work been done for 3D printing specifically, in a way that is practically applicable?\n\nI share the following train of thought to start off with. Let me know if I make any errors in reasoning.\n\n\nPresumably, every material has an optimal printing temperature just above its melting point.\nBut the thermistor doesn't read filament temperature. It reads the heat block temperature.\nBelow a certain throughput, the temperature of the filament will have time to equalize with the temperature of the heat block before it leaves the nozzle.\n\n\nFor those slow speeds, heat block temperature should be set exactly to the material's optimal printing temperature.\n\nFor greater speeds, however, heat block temperature will always have to be higher than the mark, because the filament doesn't have time to equalize.\n\n\nAt that point, it becomes a balancing act. Find the best heat block temperature (°C) given a rate of throughput (mm³/s), the optimal printing temperature for a given material (°C), the volume of the melting zone (mm³) and < some other property of the material >, which determines how fast it heats up. I don't know what that last property is, nor can I come up with the proper unit. The material probably approaches the temperature of the environment asymptotically. This is where thermodynamics comes in, I guess.\n\nTheoretically, running filament also cools down the heat block, but we can ignore this. If this effect is significant at all (is it?), this is already compensated for by the PID controller.\n\n\nI'm almost certainly missing some key insights. I'm curious to know what work has been done.\n\",StarWind0,\"I see an answer not a question. It's a balancing act and there is no predefined formula. Trial and error. Keep a spread sheet. I'll dwell on this a bit.. but as someone who did speed sprinting there's really nothing else to be said other than buy an e3d and the volcano upgrade. \n\nYou will calibrate one at a time. Thin wall. Then find solid infill is the true thermal barrier. Then sparse. You will tweak with layerheights. Get thicker nozzles 0.8+. It's a game of spinning plates. Each change will wack out another. \n\nLast you will get to where I did. You move so fast 5 layers down your print is still molten and moving. Especially on small parts. \n\",0.0,0.0\n3350,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mhelvens,2.1782824847157594,4.7192527328436915,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Increasing hotend temperature to compensate for increased filament throughput,\"It seems that when filament throughput is increased (by increasing movement speed or extrusion width/height), printing temperature also has to be increased to compensate, because the filament will have less time to spend in the melting zone. That much seems clear from practical experience. But I have two questions (or to be more precise, one question on two levels):\n\n\nIs there a good rule of thumb for this, to help people calibrate their settings?\nHow much do we know about the formula governing this behavior? Can we calculate the required hotend temperature precisely based on the increased throughput?\n\n\nFor anyone who has studied physics / thermodynamics, this is probably simple stuff. But has the work been done for 3D printing specifically, in a way that is practically applicable?\n\nI share the following train of thought to start off with. Let me know if I make any errors in reasoning.\n\n\nPresumably, every material has an optimal printing temperature just above its melting point.\nBut the thermistor doesn't read filament temperature. It reads the heat block temperature.\nBelow a certain throughput, the temperature of the filament will have time to equalize with the temperature of the heat block before it leaves the nozzle.\n\n\nFor those slow speeds, heat block temperature should be set exactly to the material's optimal printing temperature.\n\nFor greater speeds, however, heat block temperature will always have to be higher than the mark, because the filament doesn't have time to equalize.\n\n\nAt that point, it becomes a balancing act. Find the best heat block temperature (°C) given a rate of throughput (mm³/s), the optimal printing temperature for a given material (°C), the volume of the melting zone (mm³) and < some other property of the material >, which determines how fast it heats up. I don't know what that last property is, nor can I come up with the proper unit. The material probably approaches the temperature of the environment asymptotically. This is where thermodynamics comes in, I guess.\n\nTheoretically, running filament also cools down the heat block, but we can ignore this. If this effect is significant at all (is it?), this is already compensated for by the PID controller.\n\n\nI'm almost certainly missing some key insights. I'm curious to know what work has been done.\n\",Randy Steck,\"I think I see what you're asking, but I think you may be thinking about it incorrectly. It's really all about heat being added to the system at the same rate that it's leaving. The heat block is there as a heat reservoir from which the filament draws heat for the glass transition. The heat in that reservoir is maintained by cycling the heating coil to add energy (more heat) to the systems as it's lost.\n\nIn the very local vicinity of the nozzle, the temperature will decrease slightly as it's being transferred to the filament, but because the heat block is massive in comparison to that drain, and because the heat block is a good thermal conductor that temperature reduction is very small. \n\nI do not know what tolerance and hysteresis are built into the temp controller, but think the variation is likely small. The difference in additional heat required (more energy into the system) for any practical difference in feed rates (40 instead of 60) is thus likely to be very small compared to the filament cooling experienced immediately after it leaves the nozzle.\n\nBottom line: the adjustment you would want to make is not to increase the temp, but increase the duty cycle of the heating element to maintain the desired temperature.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3394,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mhelvens,3.452496054252184,4.869747038351551,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.488653845767225,How to straighten PTFE tubes?,\"PTFE tubes are typically delivered coiled up. And because they are quite stiff, they always want to spring back to their original curvy shape, making them harder to route properly.\n\nIs there a way to straighten them out?\n\",0scar,\"A colleague of me puts spring steel wires in the tubes and leaves the tubes on the central heating for a certain amount of time (probably hotter than 60 °C).\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3394,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mhelvens,3.452496054252184,4.869747038351551,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.488653845767225,How to straighten PTFE tubes?,\"PTFE tubes are typically delivered coiled up. And because they are quite stiff, they always want to spring back to their original curvy shape, making them harder to route properly.\n\nIs there a way to straighten them out?\n\",duffy,\"You could use a hairdryer to introduce a spot-bend where you need it.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3406,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mhelvens,1.0891412423578797,3.8489531999933395,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Smooth transition between a PTFE tube and the back of a push-fit coupler,\"I'm creating a reverse Bowden setup to guide my filament from spool to extruder, through a path which contains two couplers in the middle as follows:\n\n[spool] --- |#= --- =#| --- [extruder]\n\nSo I have to connect a tube to the back of a coupler (---=#|) and not just to the front (---|#=). That's the end that contains the screw thread, and it's not designed to take a tube. I can't manage to make it a smooth transition. When I try to push my 1.75 mm filament through, it will often get stuck there. After it's through, the extruder seems to have no problem with it anymore.\n\nIs there a trick to making this a smooth transition?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"The solution might be to countersink the opening at the threaded portion within the tube. There are various angles available for countersinks, although the more common angles are 82 degrees and 90 degrees.\n\nDrive the countersink to the point where the wall thickness is zero, unlike the drawing below showing some material outside the beveled area.\n\n\n\nFor your purposes, you'd want the steepest angle possible, the 60 degree tool. If you decided to purchase a countersink, pick a diameter slightly larger than the outside diameter of the wall thickness of the coupler. You could use a countersink of the same diameter as the outside diameter of the threads. \n\nCenter drills are available with 60 degree angles as well:\nAmazon specific item\n\n\nThe second smallest center drill listed here has a 1.5 mm center point with a 4 mm drill point. If your coupling is larger than 4 mm, the next size up will not work as well, as the center point is 2.5 mm. You'd have to resort to a countersink only.\n\nIf you are near a machine shop or have a friend with a mill or even a decent drill press, those resources may be able to perform the countersink for a minimal (or possibly zero) fee.\n\nI have a mini-mill and a collection of countersinks as well as center drills. I found my bag of unused couplers. They are for 5 mm tubing and were flat on the threaded end. This is the result after a quick trip to the mill. It appears in the close up that I could have driven the center drill deeper into the fitting, and also cleaned off the swarf a bit as well. \n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n3406,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mhelvens,1.0891412423578797,3.8489531999933395,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Smooth transition between a PTFE tube and the back of a push-fit coupler,\"I'm creating a reverse Bowden setup to guide my filament from spool to extruder, through a path which contains two couplers in the middle as follows:\n\n[spool] --- |#= --- =#| --- [extruder]\n\nSo I have to connect a tube to the back of a coupler (---=#|) and not just to the front (---|#=). That's the end that contains the screw thread, and it's not designed to take a tube. I can't manage to make it a smooth transition. When I try to push my 1.75 mm filament through, it will often get stuck there. After it's through, the extruder seems to have no problem with it anymore.\n\nIs there a trick to making this a smooth transition?\n\",0scar,\"An alternative to chamfering the connector is buying a different type of connectors with a larger bore hole all the way through the connector and let the tube pass all the way through. These are used in my similar spool to extruder setup (reversed Bowden setup in OP's terminology).\n\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n1258,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ArkCaptainNoah,3.0576060275493275,4.23088218665031,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.9505769891325135,HDPE as the body of a 3-D Printer?,\"I've been working on my own DIY 3-D printer recently, and I've been trying to experiment a little with different materials for the body. Someone suggested using HDPE (high-density polyethylene), since it works well on a CNC machine, which would make creating a number of prototypes easy. I know HDPE can also be used for filament, but I've never tried it before. Does anybody have any input on HDPE, or other potential materials for the body? I'm trying to avoid using wood, as I've had some poor experiences with it.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"I've used what is commonly described as UHMW-PE, aka, Ultra-high Molecular Weight Polyethylene for various projects. You may know this material is often used in cutting boards, as it cleans easily and doesn't cut easily.\n\nit does machine in a manner similar to aluminum, although the tool should be cooled/lubricated to prevent a build-up of melted plastic on the cutting edges. You can get away without coolant or lubricant if cutting speeds are slow and the swarf is cleared away from the cutter.\n\nI'd not considered such a material for constructing a 3d printer, as it's expensive, but I've also not compared the prices to equivalent sizes of aluminum. \n\nI'd consider that the use in a 3d printer would be a good substitute for lexan, as one can tighten the bolts without fear of cracking. For bolts subject to rotation or vibration, self-locking nuts are a good idea. If you have use of a broach, cutting out a pocket for the nuts would be easily accomplished.\n\nI have downloaded the plans for the open-source 3d printer known as DICE, which calls for aluminum, but the pricing I've found was excessive for the right quantities. I think I'll explore the same bill of materials in HDPE or UHMW-PE (which may be different names for the same substance).\n\nEqually useful to know is that the material is very slippery, effectively self-lubricating under the right conditions. Unfortunately, for a 3d printer application, I don't believe the self-lubricating part would work for carriages but might be fun to try with linear slides.\n\nIt is not as stiff as aluminum, so where stiffness is needed and not provided by the architecture, a thicker piece may be indicated. I can just barely bend with my fingers a piece of 3 mm (1/8\"\") a small amount, but cannot do so for aluminum.\n\nHere's the result of a quick search for UHMWPE:\nhttps://www.interstateplastics.com/Uhmw-Natural-Virgin-Sheet-UHMNV~~SH.php?thickness=0.125&dim2=12&dim3=24 which gives a price for 1/8\"\" white sheet 24 x 12\"\" as US\\$ 26.06 while the black version is available only as thin as 1/4\"\" for about US$ 28.00\n\nThe equivalent size in aluminum 6061T6 at onlinemetals.com is about US\\$ 3.00 more expensive. That is lower than I expected, skewing the idea farther away from UHMWPE than one might hope. The equivalent for 1/4\"\" is almost US\\$ 60, quite a bit higher. \n\nIt would appear that if you need the thicker stuff, the price is better for plastic, not so good for the aluminum.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n1258,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ArkCaptainNoah,3.0576060275493275,4.23088218665031,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.9505769891325135,HDPE as the body of a 3-D Printer?,\"I've been working on my own DIY 3-D printer recently, and I've been trying to experiment a little with different materials for the body. Someone suggested using HDPE (high-density polyethylene), since it works well on a CNC machine, which would make creating a number of prototypes easy. I know HDPE can also be used for filament, but I've never tried it before. Does anybody have any input on HDPE, or other potential materials for the body? I'm trying to avoid using wood, as I've had some poor experiences with it.\n\",BlackSquareTaco,\"The main consideration when building the body/frame of a 3D printer is the stiffness. The stiffer the material, the less the frame will deform under load, and the more accurate and repeatable your results will be.\n\nUHMW has a Tensile Modulus of Elasticity around 120,000 psi (http://www.polytechindustrial.com/products/plastic-stock-shapes/uhmw-polyethylene)\n\nAluminium has a Modulus of Elasticity around 10,000,000 psi (Mott, Applied Strength of Materials, 5th Edition, depends on the specific alloy)\n\nAluminium is around 100 times stiffer than UHMW.\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n1264,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kay,2.528907649931287,3.8134589853981136,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Car Body shop Printers,\"What type of printer would one recommend to print and cast car body parts fast on a large scale? Also if I were to print parts for restoration would I need licences from the manufactures?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The Materialise Mammoth printers seem to be the predominant choice for manufacturing car body parts. However, any sufficiently large printer (e.g. bigrep) could work. That said, car body parts are quite a challenge to 3D print given how excruciatingly long such large parts take (exacerbating the probability of failure). You will have to very carefully consider whether 3D printing is right for your application (it probably is not).\n\nThe licensing part is extremely complicated. You'll have to deal with patents (perhaps the body part incorporates some clever patented feature), trademarks (you generally can't reproduce manufacturer's logo's) and copyrights (if the part is very \"\"artistic\"\" it might be protected by copyright, but this is unlikely). A simple, functional part such as a body panel would generally not be protected by any of these but these three things are the main reason why you might need a license.\n\nIn addition, you have to be careful as to which materials you use, as these will (most probably) not be as strong/durable as those that are produced by car-parts-manufacturers. Furthermore, if you print the parts yourself, install it in a customer's vehicle, and the vehicle malfunctions, as a result, you may find yourself being sued.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n1266,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Koppany Horvath,4.707190134647046,6.28412847679723,2.7799718631987322,4.670422881206417,4.376800063013361,3.510136716284225,What to do with failed/unwanted 3D prints?,\"I am planning on getting a 3D printer soon and I was just wondering, what do you do with 3D prints that either failed or were prototypes that you no longer want?\nI tried looking online but the closest I got was effects on environment, turning prints back into filament, or restarting a failed print half-way, none of which were the information I was looking for. \n\nThe solution should be somewhat eco and just keeping unwanted prints in a box somewhere isn't a very good solution either.\nFinishing off failed prints isn't totally applicable because it wouldn't apply to prototype prints that you don't want to keep.\n\nIs there anywhere to send failed 3D prints for professional recycling, or are there any recommendations for properly disposing 3D prints? \n\nIn case this is of any use, the printer I am planning to get uses filament that can be made of PLA, ABS, Nylon, and possibly other materials. The printer is this one specifically (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/101hero/101hero-the-world-first-us49-3d-printer) from KickStarter.\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"The \"\"obvious\"\" answer is re-grinding the prints and making more filament. Unfortunately, this isn't yet a very economical or simple operation. A decent filament extruder capable of holding acceptable diameter tolerances is around $1000, and even then they can be pretty fidgety to operate. You have to have a LOT of volume throughput in your filament extruder for regrinding to be an economical proposition. \n\nSome of the reasons why recycling prints into filament can be difficult:\n\n\nMost plastics will degrade to some extent each time they are extruded. (Both by the 3d printer and by the filament extruder.) PLA will thermally degrade with extended exposure to heat. PET will hydrolyze and break down if not meticulously dried to remove moisture prior to heating to the melting temp. (PETG seems to be less prone to hydrolysis damage than plastic bottle PET, but it still happens to a limited degree.) ABS holds up to extrusion conditions better than most, which is part of why it's favored for injection molding, but there's still the potential to affect properties by depleting additives or cooking out plasticizers. In practice, this means regrinds generally need to be mixed with fresh pellets at some ratio. That dilutes the degraded or additive-depleted polymer with good material so you can maintain the material properties and performance. \nIf you print a variety of different colors, and don't want all your recycled filament to mix and end up a muddy brownish color, it can be difficult to manage the color sorting and matching. Most people don't want different colors along the length of a spool, either. So the regrind has to be mixed evenly in with virgin pellets and a suitable amount of masterbatch colorant to get a reasonable color output. You're not going to run off a new spool with 95% virgin pellets just to recycle a 50 gram failed print, are you? Likewise for material matching. Mixing materials is a bad idea. If you only print white PLA, this is all pretty easy to manage. But if you print a variety of colors and materials, you've got to set up a material tracking, sorting, and storage operation. You can do it... it's just a hassle. \nDiameter control is difficult. 3D printers need a fairly tight diameter control for reliable performance and good quality. This is really the key challenge in any filament extrusion process. Extruded polymers like to change shape as they extrude and cool due to molecular alignment effects. You can't just push molten plastic out a 1.75mm nozzle -- \"\"die swell\"\" will make the extrudate bulge to a larger diameter immediately upon exiting the nozzle. Then you have to actually pull on the soft filament as it cools to carefully draw it down to the right diameter. The way the filament extruder measures diameter and controls tension is the key to getting acceptable results. Most hobbyist/desktop filament extruders have not succeeded at this. \n\n\nThose are just the major issues. Filament extrusion is a complex subject with a lot of depth. For a home user of 3d printers, making filament basically becomes a whole second hobby. In my opinion, it only really makes sense in a commercial production printing environment where paid technicians can run the extruder(s) and a very large print throughput makes the pellets+regrind economics much more favorable than just buying new filament. \n\nReducing and reusing are preferable to recycling. Making your printer more reliable and gaining experience with calibration/configuration will reduce the volume of waste produced. \n\nThere are also some productive uses that let you reuse unwanted prints as-is or \"\"downcycle\"\" them for productive uses. \n\n\nI personally keep a box of failed prints (and calibration prints and\nno-longer-needed prototypes) as showpieces for people who want to\nlearn about 3D printing, and as toys for my nieces and nephews. I strongly recommend doing your calibration prints with a \"\"toy\"\" calibration model like Benchy or CaliBlocks. 3D printing is still new enough that people will happily take dozens of Benchies off your hands for the novelty value.\nFailed and unwanted prints can also be used around the workshop for shims, sacrificial\ncushions when clamping or hammering or drilling, or as scrap for experimenting\nwith adhesives or post-processing techniques.\nABS scraps are good for making ABS-slurry as a print bed adhesion treatment\nlayer, or for solvent-painting and filling gaps in other prints. Unfortunately, most other filaments do not have such convenient and safe solvents.\nSome people have experimented with putting piles of scrap prints on a cookie sheet in an oven and melting them into multicolor cutting boards. There's a lot you can do with this sort of heavy remelt plate if you get creative. (I personally wouldn't use cheap Asian filaments for food contact though, they often have unpleasant contaminants.)\n\n\",3.7511513460834345,2.0769199823829045\n1266,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Koppany Horvath,4.707190134647046,6.28412847679723,2.7799718631987322,4.670422881206417,4.376800063013361,3.510136716284225,What to do with failed/unwanted 3D prints?,\"I am planning on getting a 3D printer soon and I was just wondering, what do you do with 3D prints that either failed or were prototypes that you no longer want?\nI tried looking online but the closest I got was effects on environment, turning prints back into filament, or restarting a failed print half-way, none of which were the information I was looking for. \n\nThe solution should be somewhat eco and just keeping unwanted prints in a box somewhere isn't a very good solution either.\nFinishing off failed prints isn't totally applicable because it wouldn't apply to prototype prints that you don't want to keep.\n\nIs there anywhere to send failed 3D prints for professional recycling, or are there any recommendations for properly disposing 3D prints? \n\nIn case this is of any use, the printer I am planning to get uses filament that can be made of PLA, ABS, Nylon, and possibly other materials. The printer is this one specifically (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/101hero/101hero-the-world-first-us49-3d-printer) from KickStarter.\n\",FrankL,\"At Chaos Computer Club summit in Winter there was a talk from a Maker who recycled by himself.\n\nHow can be 3d printing a dual use technology? Print more things, produce less waste, save money!\nYou can see the talk here https://media.ccc.de/v/32c3-7321-re_cycle\n\nUpdate: At Fabcon3D in Erfurt/Germany there presented two startups their prototype for filament extruder. You can either recycle old print-puts or compose your own filament with pellets. http://mcubus.com/ and http://3devo.eu/\nIm not shure how mature their \"\"product\"\" is. But it will be soon.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1309,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jorge Cuevas,4.146747269907207,5.31196660809968,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,4.091740895605862,4.592941926651472,How to build CuraEngine?,\"I've been trying to build CuraEngine on Ubuntu following the Github instructions.\n\nThe problem is that it lists some requirements:\n\n\nClone the CuraEngine repository;\nInstall Protobuf (see below);\nInstall libArcus.\n\n\nI'm not sure where should I install Protobuf and libArcus. After several tries and locations I've received several errors during the build process.\n\nDoes anyone have a more detailed guide on how to build this engine?\n\",Kye W Shi,\"I'm assuming you actually want to build Cura, rather than simply install Cura. If you instead want to install Cura, you can try sudo apt-get install cura-engine\n\nThe following instructions were tested on my own Debian 8 (Jessie) distribution; they should be mostly, if not entirely, the same, for Ubuntu. Note that I did not follow the exact steps as described on the github/Ultimaker/CuraEngine README.\n\nBefore we begin, let's make a build directory and do everything in there.\n\nmkdir ~/Downloads/curabuild\ncd ~/Downloads/curabuild\n\n\nThe instructions will be broken into \n\n1. Install dependencies\n\nSome or all of these may already be installed on your computer. To be sure, we install them anyways:\n\nsudo apt-get install git curl libtool dh-autoreconf cmake python3-setuptools python3-dev python3-sip sip-dev\n\n\n2. Install protobuf\n\n\nClone and enter the protobuf git repository:\n\ngit clone https://github.com/google/protobuf\ncd protobuf\n\nBuild and install for C++:\n\n./autogen.sh\n./configure\nmake # this will take some time\nsudo make install\n\nInstall for Python 3:\n\ncd python\nsudo python3 setup.py install\n\n\n\n3. Install libArcus\n\n\nClone and enter the libArcus repository:\n\ncd ../..\ngit clone https://github.com/Ultimaker/libArcus\ncd libArcus\n\nBuild and install\n\ncmake .\nmake\nsudo make install\n\n\n\n4. Install CuraEngine\n\n\nClone and enter repository:\n\ncd ..\ngit clone https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine\ncd CuraEngine\n\nBuild and install\n\ncmake .\nmake # grab a cup of coffee\nsudo make install\n\n\n\n5. Celebrate!\n\nIf all went well, you're done! You can now use the Cura engine via CuraEngine. Enjoy.\n\",3.5068404193471867,2.0769199823829045\n1310,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Julian E.,2.1782824847157594,3.9583220392252736,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Not Heated Build Plate Glue Amount and Dry Duration,\"Background:\n\nI am using the Flux Delta 3d Printer, and it arrived with a glue stick. Now on their forums it said to apply 2 layers of glue and let it dry, there's supposed to be a link there on how long it should dry. However that link is broken. \n\nMy question:\n\nOn a not heated bed, how much glue-stick should I apply and for how long should I let it dry?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"As a fellow Flux Delta owner, I can answer this question with certainty. Two layers is sufficient. Be sure to consider the size of the model being printed and the additional area covered if you are using skirts or rafts.\n\nIf you apply the glue stick at the moment you turn on the printer, it will be dry enough to work properly. The printer \"\"uses time\"\" to initialize and to calibrate which provides enough drying time. You will also \"\"use time\"\" to load the software and import the model.\n\nIt is not necessary to remove the glue from the plate after a print. For succeeding model printing, ensure that you've filled in the areas missing glue from removing the previous model.\n\nYou will want to remove the glue (hot water works good, but the build plate gets hot!) when you feel that the glue build-up changes the texture of the bottom layers.\n\nYou may have already learned from the forums that you print on the non-grid side of the build plate.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n1312,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Julian E.,3.452496054252184,4.494085381880977,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.8086301675739853,How often should I replace the glue layers on the bed?,\"I am printing on a non-heated bed right now, but the question also applies to heated building plates. \n\nHow often should you replace the glue layers that's supposed to be applied before printing? Some say you can do up to a few prints, such as in this forum, while others say to replace it every print. What is the correct approach?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"Depends on the glue and on your tolerance for messy undersides on your prints. It's fairly common for some of the glue to come off with the print. Or you may have marks from scrapers or rafts. Do you want to touch up that spot and have some artifacts on the bottom of the next print, or clean and redo the bed to get everything flat?\n\nGluestick is pretty easy to wash and reapply. It can also be freshened up with a gentle spray of water, smeared flat, and redried, or more gluestick added on top. It will really come down to your preferred workflow. \n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n1312,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Julian E.,3.452496054252184,4.494085381880977,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.8086301675739853,How often should I replace the glue layers on the bed?,\"I am printing on a non-heated bed right now, but the question also applies to heated building plates. \n\nHow often should you replace the glue layers that's supposed to be applied before printing? Some say you can do up to a few prints, such as in this forum, while others say to replace it every print. What is the correct approach?\n\",darth pixel,\"I usually add some glue each time I print a new part. I re-apply over places where recent part left a visible \"\"footprint\"\". But after a few prints, the glue layer becomes too thick so it has influence on the height of the first layer. If so, I dismount the glass and clean it with hot water. I do this after about 5 prints... (+/- of course).\n\nGenerally the glue becomes white when it dries up, so I use this as an indication or sign for when it has to be cleaned.\n\nI would say there are no strict rules. Do some experiments and observe the first layer surface. Then you'll find your correct way.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1325,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,junerockwell,3.767809650974757,4.839628414958741,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.585260288142579,How to 3D Print 5-pointed star object that doesn't have flat bottom and hole in the middle?,\"I'm new to 3D Printing. I've created this star from Blender3d. As far as I know, most printers require a flat bottom.\n\nAs you can see (blue line is Z-axis, red line is X-axis, green line Y-axis), the star doesn't have any flat sides or points.\n\n\n\nThere's a hole in the middle of the star.\n\n\nIs there a printer (brand/model) that can print this object that doesn't have any flat bottom or sides having a hole that goes through in the middle? Any workarounds to print this object?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The existing answer seems to suggest printing the model in the orientation as shown (e.g. with the Z-axis of the part corresponding to the Z-axis to the printer) with either support or splitting it in half.\n\nUsing supports in this way is a bad idea, because it will leave a very rough surface finish due to the geometry (and be very hard to remove, unless you want to deal with troublesome support material). The model also will have no contact with the build plate at all, making it very likely that it will detach (even when you're using support, you want a reasonable amount of surface area making contact with the build plate). You'd have to drill out the hole in the middle (since support can not be removed there).\n\nThe approach of splitting it in half and printing in this orientation isn't ideal either, because the surface finish will again be very rough due to the very gentle curves of the star. The hole in the middle will also turn out a bit deformed and flattened and require support.\n\nInstead, for this model, a much better approach is to split it like this:\n\n\n\nThe top half has no overhang at all, and the bottom half only has gentle overhangs that are easy to print without support. The surface finish will be much better compared to printing in the other orientation. Moreover, the hole can also be printed in the XY plane leaving it cleaner as well.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n1325,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,junerockwell,3.767809650974757,4.839628414958741,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.585260288142579,How to 3D Print 5-pointed star object that doesn't have flat bottom and hole in the middle?,\"I'm new to 3D Printing. I've created this star from Blender3d. As far as I know, most printers require a flat bottom.\n\nAs you can see (blue line is Z-axis, red line is X-axis, green line Y-axis), the star doesn't have any flat sides or points.\n\n\n\nThere's a hole in the middle of the star.\n\n\nIs there a printer (brand/model) that can print this object that doesn't have any flat bottom or sides having a hole that goes through in the middle? Any workarounds to print this object?\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"Typical FDM desktop 3D printers might struggle with this model as it requires you to either print large overhangs and use support structure (when printed laying down), or lacks a natural flat bottom surface to get good print adhesion (when printed upright). A couple of suggestions:\n\n\nSome FDM printers are great at printing support, and some even allow you to print dissolvable support structure. If you find one of these, you are home safe.\nYou could split the model in two, print those parts separately, and then glue them together afterwards. This is quite common for complex models, and allows you to print your model on even basic FDM printers. Tom's answer illustrates this well.\n\n\nThere are naturally other 3D printer technologies too (SLA, resin etc.), but I have no practical experience with these myself, and leave it up to others to give you a good answer regarding these.\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n1357,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,junerockwell,2.8153892694839717,3.646280618164887,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,0.7766301205685938,What is the biggest size of an object that iBox Nano can print?,\"Since iBox Nano is the smallest public-production-available 3d Resin printer (and the cheapest so far), I assume it has a huge size limitation. So far I've only seen pictures of its outputs that are miniature things. I've never tried it nor have I seen it in action in person so I'd like to be sure. \n\nFor example, my 3D models are of the size of beads to figurines to a standard sized pencil cup holder.\n\nI want to know in inches or millimeters the dimension (width, length, height) of the biggest possible object the iBox Nano can print.\n\",kamuro,\"On their website, I found the following picture, which states a build area of 40 mm x 20 mm x 90 mm (1.57\"\" x 0,79\"\" x 3.54\"\").\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n1357,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,junerockwell,2.8153892694839717,3.646280618164887,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,0.7766301205685938,What is the biggest size of an object that iBox Nano can print?,\"Since iBox Nano is the smallest public-production-available 3d Resin printer (and the cheapest so far), I assume it has a huge size limitation. So far I've only seen pictures of its outputs that are miniature things. I've never tried it nor have I seen it in action in person so I'd like to be sure. \n\nFor example, my 3D models are of the size of beads to figurines to a standard sized pencil cup holder.\n\nI want to know in inches or millimeters the dimension (width, length, height) of the biggest possible object the iBox Nano can print.\n\",J. Roibal - BlockchainEng,\"From their website I found a comparison between 300 microns down to 50 microns print quality. My answer would be somewhere around this range.\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1433,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,junerockwell,2.8153892694839717,4.083098880456266,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,Can I use a metal filament on M3D Micro (or Pro)?,\"Can I use a metal filament such as Copper, Zinc Alloy, Silver filaments on M3D Micro? The Pro hasn't come out yet but I assume it would if the Micro can since the Pro is suppose to be the improvement edition.\n\nAn example of a metal filament that I found is this Silver PLA 1.75mm Filament. Here's one for Cooper PLA 1.75mm Filament.\n\nI would like to make small sculptures or bracelet beads/charms, and whatever else I could think of making using metal. And, I'm asking because I'm new to 3d printing, I want to learn how to work with a 3d printer and M3D is very affordable for me. So I'm making sure before I buy. Note that I've emailed M3D twice and I didn't get any reply. \n\nIf not M3D, can any other 3D Printer comparable to M3D do this? The MBot Mini, maybe?\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"Most 3D printers that use non-proprietary filament can print exotic filaments, such as the ones you mention. One thing to be aware of, though, is that some of these filaments wear down the nozzle far more quickly than ordinary PLA, and therefore should be used with reinforced nozzles (unless you have extra nozzles to spare). Carbon fibre and metallic filaments are generally known to increase nozzle wear, while softer alloys such as wood and bamboo generally are less abrasive.\n\nA quick google search reveals that many people have used non-proprietary filament on the M3D Micro successfully, but be aware that using such filaments is not covered by your warranty. If you are going to use abrasive filaments with your Micro, I would check that M3D allows you to replace the nozzle first.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n1433,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,junerockwell,2.8153892694839717,4.083098880456266,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,Can I use a metal filament on M3D Micro (or Pro)?,\"Can I use a metal filament such as Copper, Zinc Alloy, Silver filaments on M3D Micro? The Pro hasn't come out yet but I assume it would if the Micro can since the Pro is suppose to be the improvement edition.\n\nAn example of a metal filament that I found is this Silver PLA 1.75mm Filament. Here's one for Cooper PLA 1.75mm Filament.\n\nI would like to make small sculptures or bracelet beads/charms, and whatever else I could think of making using metal. And, I'm asking because I'm new to 3d printing, I want to learn how to work with a 3d printer and M3D is very affordable for me. So I'm making sure before I buy. Note that I've emailed M3D twice and I didn't get any reply. \n\nIf not M3D, can any other 3D Printer comparable to M3D do this? The MBot Mini, maybe?\n\",Jeanie,\"It is my understanding that the metals are so fine and mixed in with other ingredients that you cannot tell that there is metal at all. But looks like its 100% metals.\n\",0.0,0.0\n1334,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tony Stark,3.267423727073639,6.076151888497118,0.0,5.199501240805782,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,What is the easiest way to modify/resize an object inside a STL file?,\"I have this GoPro mount for a quadcopter as STL file. It looks as follows.\n\n\n\nHow do I modify it so that it is wider and longer by a few millimeters but the screw holes stay the exact same size? Additionally the angle of the upper surface must stay the same. Please suggest the easiest solution for someone like me who as no idea about CAD software.\n\nThe perfect solution for me would be to just import it in Tinkercad and then modify it however I have no idea what the steps are.\n\",J. Roibal - BlockchainEng,\"Many resources are available for modification using 3D CAD (including learning a tool such as sketchup, which is VERY beginner friendly). The easiest and fastest solution to your particular problem may be the reddit community \"\"3D Print My Thing\"\" which was created for EXACTLY this type of situation (help with modelling parts which will be 3D printed.) Another potential useful reddit community is \"\"3D Modelling\"\" which will have many people who are able to help you with this quadcopter/Go-Pro attachment 3D model.\n\nThird solution: Thingiverse has a customize option for 3D models (including this one). have you explored using this interface to edit the model? This is most likely the easiest DIY solution.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n1334,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tony Stark,3.267423727073639,6.076151888497118,0.0,5.199501240805782,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,What is the easiest way to modify/resize an object inside a STL file?,\"I have this GoPro mount for a quadcopter as STL file. It looks as follows.\n\n\n\nHow do I modify it so that it is wider and longer by a few millimeters but the screw holes stay the exact same size? Additionally the angle of the upper surface must stay the same. Please suggest the easiest solution for someone like me who as no idea about CAD software.\n\nThe perfect solution for me would be to just import it in Tinkercad and then modify it however I have no idea what the steps are.\n\",MartianAndy,\"I think what you are trying to do is somewhat non-trivial so whatever tool you choose there will be some learning curve.\n\nOpenSCAD, as mentioned above, is pretty well established as an open source tool for modifying STLs; however you have to be comfortable writing programmatic CAD instead of using GUI tools. Personally, I think programmatic CAD is MUCH easier but I realize not everyone feels that way. FWIW, I would probably break this into three STLs using a DIFFERENCE method, stretch the outer ones using a SCALE method, then use a UNION to put them back together.\n\nThe one problem that I've had with OpenSCAD is that it will frequently crash unexpectedly or run incredibly slowly when dealing with an STL with a large number of triangles.\n\nAtomicCompiler.com is very similar to OpenSCAD but runs as a web service and seems to do a bit better when dealing with large STLs. I might try that first, as it doesn't require a download or even a login.\n\",0.0,0.0\n1345,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,J. Roibal - BlockchainEng,3.452496054252184,5.977959985539229,0.0,5.199501240805782,3.0574377365420307,1.9721387515589952,How to connect filament end-to-end?,\"Is it possible to connect two pieces of 1.75 mm filament end to end, with no change in width? I am asking the question because I am interested in creating a multi-filament feeder to a single extruder, and I am curious about the process of changing filament while the 3-d printer extruder continues uninterrupted. My current best-guess at the optimal solution is to someone 'cut' one end of the filament and 'melt' it to the end of another filament.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"You'd have to ensure that the joining portion of the two filaments do not \"\"bloom\"\" or increase in diameter, which would happen if unconstrained at the melting and joining time. Alignment is also critical, otherwise you have a varying diameter from one color to the next at the point of join.\n\nThere's an item on ebay which is precision drilled and has precision machined mating surfaces to ensure alignment of the filament. The filament is extended through the two components, heated (in the case of the video, with a match) and the two metal parts are pushed together. The joining of the metal parts also cuts away the excess bulge of the melted filament, ensuring correct diameter.\n\nIn the case of the above item, the joining devices have to be threaded with the filament prior to the joining process and then have to be threaded off the filament by pushing them the entire length of the filament.\n\nThis would be okay if one were joining short lengths only. Consider how much fun it isn't to have to slide these two pieces over an entire full spool of filament.\n\nA split device which would enable one to un-latch or otherwise open a clamshell to release the filament would require much more challenging machining to achieve the necessary precision, which is probably why we don't see such a product.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n1345,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,J. Roibal - BlockchainEng,3.452496054252184,5.977959985539229,0.0,5.199501240805782,3.0574377365420307,1.9721387515589952,How to connect filament end-to-end?,\"Is it possible to connect two pieces of 1.75 mm filament end to end, with no change in width? I am asking the question because I am interested in creating a multi-filament feeder to a single extruder, and I am curious about the process of changing filament while the 3-d printer extruder continues uninterrupted. My current best-guess at the optimal solution is to someone 'cut' one end of the filament and 'melt' it to the end of another filament.\n\",user802599,\"I haven't tried this but it is something I have thought about. The simplest way to try this that I could think of was to try cutting the ends flat and then using a soldering iron or just the printers printing nozzle to melt the ends and then quickly press them together, then you could sand the filamelt to try and clean up the join. \n\nI think what would work better than trying to get the width perfect would be to make sure your printer is doing infill when it hits the join so over or under extrusion wont matter as much or have the printer move to the side of the print and extrude in thin air while getting past the join. I have done this when swapping filaments during a print by pausing the printer, and changing the filament.\n\",0.0,0.0\n1355,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,J. Roibal - BlockchainEng,3.9045305118418514,4.528804247088327,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.8086301675739853,Can toothbrush bristles be printed?,\"Is it possible to print toothbrush bristles using a common FDM 3D printer? I am particularly interested in the width of bristles, closeness together of each bristle, and the flexibility of each particular bristle.\n\",tbm0115,\"At this point, an FDM printer probably wouldn't produce good results if you intend on printing the same design as current toothbrushes.\n\nEach strand is about 0.007\"\" in diameter which is slightly larger than the typical minimum diameter that can possibly be extruded. This doesn't leave much room to provide a well enough surface between layers.\n\nWith features this small you might run into issues with resolution and accuracy of the machine. The resolution may determine how well the strands are printed separately. The accuracy may determine how well each layer print over each other. If your machines accuracy is about 0.0005\"\", then expect your layers to have run-out of about 0.0005\"\"-0.001\"\" on a 0.007\"\" size feature. I'm also not accounting for how well the machine is maintained/tuned, which could detriment both resolution and accuracy.\n\nSo, it's possible on an FDM, but not probable at this time.\n\nTo help your odds:\n\n\nSlow your feed rate way down (maybe 30-40mm/s)\nWatch over and under extrusion. It will be more evident on smaller features like this. It either will look like a big blob or pretty much nothing. You should have settings in your slicer to help compensate.\nClean your extruder and drive gear and tune the tension on filament in the extruder assembly.\nUse quality filament! If the filament is out of round, then over/under extrusion will occur.\nBe mindful of any health organization requirements on the type of materials you're allowed to use for something that goes in your mouth. The same logic goes for ensuring you don't print the bristles in something that can mold. I believe nylon is safe, at least in the US, but don't quote me on this.\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1355,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,J. Roibal - BlockchainEng,3.9045305118418514,4.528804247088327,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.8086301675739853,Can toothbrush bristles be printed?,\"Is it possible to print toothbrush bristles using a common FDM 3D printer? I am particularly interested in the width of bristles, closeness together of each bristle, and the flexibility of each particular bristle.\n\",StarWind0,\"Actually last year a group did use a normal FDM printer to 3d print hair, brushed, etc. See the press release from Carnegie Mellon University\n\nhttps://www.engadget.com/2015/10/29/3d-printing-hair-is-as-easy-as-using-a-hot-glue-gun/\n\nhttp://technabob.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/3d_printed_hair_by_Gierad_Laput_Xiang_Chen_Chris_Harrison_1.jpg\n\nThat said as far as I know you will not have access to this process, and is probably under a mountain of patents and other innovation killers. \n\nNow how to do this outside of fancy software.\n\nFor a FDM printer the smallest nozzle I ever got was 0.1mm, it jammed instantly. One could print rows at this precision.\n\nNow we have to move to something more advanced, such as DLP. Not the materials you want, but closer to the size you want. a formlabs can print at 25 microns. Which as a hair is 17 microns, you are \"\"close enough\"\" .. but a resin would be brittle and break. They do have other materials such as flexibles, but I am not familiar with them enough.\n\nAlso just going to mention. Tiny slivers of plastic is more likely to cut you than comb you.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n1359,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Akanksha Vishwakarma,2.1782824847157594,3.007463813452983,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,CubePro 3D Printer,\"How to check leveling of printer bed ? \nWhat should be ideal values on x,y and z to ensure printer bed is flat and there is no angle between plane of nozzle and plane of printer bed ?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"The CubePro printer appears to have a comprehensive leveling system built into the menu. The direct instructions for this process can be found here:\nCubePro Calibration\n\nI would suggest that \"\"ideal values\"\" are those created by the calibration process that confirms the necessary settings for a good print.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n1395,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Akanksha Vishwakarma,2.1782824847157594,3.1584864133350328,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Tinkerine 3D Printer,\"I am trying to print model for Prosthetic Hand \n(File Here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:596966) using Tinkerine 3D Printer. It went smooth for first hour and after that it started messing up(attached image).\nI checked the leveling of plate and it was fine. Also, the nozzle didn't get clogged anywhere. Can anyone suggest, what could be the reason for this or what should be inspected in order to overcome this?\n\nExpected Result\n\n\nActual Result\n\n\",tbm0115,\"The issue occurring here is similar to a question asked over here. It looks as though this is a result of a hardware fault related to the stepper drivers. @DarthPixel recommended placing heatsinks on the stepper driver(s) and/or properly placed fans.\n\n\n\nDepending on the design of your machine, some stepper drivers are going to be worked harder than others. For example, a MakerBot Replicator will work the X-Axis stepper driver more than the Z-Axis stepper driver. Therefore, you have a higher chance of overheating your X-Axis stepper driver.(Images are of A4988 Stepper Driver, not directly compatible with MakerBot Replicator)\n\nAlternatively, I personally have seen the issue repeated by manually triggering one of the limit switches. The effects seemed to take effect on the next layer.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n1361,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,agent provocateur,4.255155677057378,6.324578586248911,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,4.503257053771732,4.208576161768494,Differences between moving build plate vs. extruder,\"What are the differences, and pros & cons, between 3D printers with varying layouts for moving head vs. moving build plate?\n\nExample layouts would include:\n\n\nX Head; YZ Bed; \nXY Head; Z Bed; \nXYZ Head; \netc.\n\n\nIn particular, what are their respective strengths, weaknesses, specializations, maintenance considerations, etc.?\n\",kamuro,\"Without going into too much detail, since this is a very exhaustive topic, I'll write some pro's of each down from the top of my head:\n\nCartesian XZ hotend, Y bed (eg. Prusa Mendel):\n\n\neasy to build (relatively)\neasy to maintain\neasy to modify\nunderstandable kinematics\nwith the right frame, no x-y-z orthogonality (90 degree angles) needs to be adjusted\naffordable\nbad for timelapse recordings\nprint quality will theoretically always be inferior at the same speeds and accelerations to kinematics that have less mass to move (heavy printbeds will lead to ghosting)\nz-wobble is only existent in this approach\nbig build-plates are no option for this design (last feasible size might be 20x30 cm)\n\n\nCartesian XY hotend, Z bed (core-XY, sparkcube, Ultimaker, Makerbot)\n\n\nless mass to be moved -> faster print speeds possible\nalmost no size limitaions\nconstruction is easy to enclose in most models due to the cubic frame\nlooks almost always professional\nenclosure can be hard to modify due to constraints in space\n\n\nXYZ hotend (Delta bots)\n\n\nmaster of circles\nless mass to be moved -> faster print speeds possible\nimpressive to watch\nmore load on the processing unit due to more complicated kinematics (32 bit needed for fast print speeds and responsive control with display)\nkinematics not easily understandable\nerror-cause search can be very complicated\nmore accurate in the center than on the outer limits due to the kinematic approach\n\n\nThe list is for sure not complete, and as a major disclaimer: print quality will always, with every approach, depend more on the setup and calibration of the printer than on the model. There are people around that produce great prints from an acrylic frame cartesian printer and lots of people that produce mediocre results with expensive printers in fancy designs.\n\nI will add some links to the list items when I find the time, for now you have to believe me. I am highly appreciating corrections and additions!\n\",3.859531739127555,2.0769199823829045\n1361,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,agent provocateur,4.255155677057378,6.324578586248911,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,4.503257053771732,4.208576161768494,Differences between moving build plate vs. extruder,\"What are the differences, and pros & cons, between 3D printers with varying layouts for moving head vs. moving build plate?\n\nExample layouts would include:\n\n\nX Head; YZ Bed; \nXY Head; Z Bed; \nXYZ Head; \netc.\n\n\nIn particular, what are their respective strengths, weaknesses, specializations, maintenance considerations, etc.?\n\",StarWind0,\"I think this is simple, breaking it into simple parts... It is much easier to calibrate a machine where each axis does one thing. For instance, the Ultimaker; one of the few XY-on-the-same-axis printers... It has such a crazy complicated pulley system. If one thing gets out of whack, everything will start binding. Thankfully this doesn't happen as they did a good job, but it comes at a price. All the double pulleys and double rods - that costs money.\n\nHowever if you break it into smaller bits then less will go wrong. \n\nWhen I upgraded my MendelMax 1.5 to use a PBC linear solid slide for the X axis, it instantly solved all my issues with the rods binding (two rods into one big slide).\n\nTo quote my coworker,\n\n\n It's like balancing a stool. Is it easier to balance a 4 legged stool or a 3?\n\n\nFollowing from that, there is probably a good hour's worth of mechanical engineering information that can be said in regards to the linear motion itself. I would rather calibrate one axis at at time, and not worry about weird behavior caused by a XYZ head.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1371,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Flole,2.528907649931287,5.167145648974735,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.551027839747059,Why is my print getting messed up mid-print?,\"I am using Slic3r to generate the GCode for my Marlin-based printer. For some reason with increasing height my print starts to get messed up. On another part it starts to act like this when there are small parts. Is this related to my Slic3r settings, maybe to much filament being extruded or is this due to something else?\n\nAny help is highly appreciated and I can provide more pictures of messed up parts or slic3r config if necessary.\n\n\n\n\n\",tbm0115,\"To me, this looks like a combination of bad filament, high temperature and/or fast speeds.\n\n\nToo high extrusion temperature will make difficult to let each layer cool enough before the next layer begins. This is why you see the poor results on the smaller areas of the print in your second photo.\nIf you're using bad filament (out of round, non-virgin, or poorly stored filament) you might see a series of over/under extrusion areas or smoke from moisture in the filament.\nSlowing down your feed rates can be tricky if your extrusion temps are too high. By slowing down, you're allowing layers to cool down a little bit more and solidify. If your previous layers are still relatively molten, you'll notice that the new layer of filament will adhere to it and potentially drag the previous layers as the nozzle continues to move. You'll see the results of this in the top-arc layers with an uneven curvature.\n\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n1371,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Flole,2.528907649931287,5.167145648974735,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.551027839747059,Why is my print getting messed up mid-print?,\"I am using Slic3r to generate the GCode for my Marlin-based printer. For some reason with increasing height my print starts to get messed up. On another part it starts to act like this when there are small parts. Is this related to my Slic3r settings, maybe to much filament being extruded or is this due to something else?\n\nAny help is highly appreciated and I can provide more pictures of messed up parts or slic3r config if necessary.\n\n\n\n\n\",andrewmuck,\"This can happen if your filament is having to be pulled off the spool and slipping in the extruder. Check if slippage is happening at the extruder, perhaps see if results change by providing some hand powered help. I have seen this with some glossy PLA I have used.\n\",0.0,0.0\n1372,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user2183,2.1782824847157594,3.191554579001479,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,HE3D Prusa Z-Axis Motor Error,\"I have an HE3D Prusa XI3 that I have assembled but the z axis motors aren't functioning properly, they will whine instead of turn. They will turn if I use Z babystepping or position changes but will not when doing a fast position changes or in normal use\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"You are probably driving the motors with insufficient current. Try increasing the motor current, by adjusting the potentiometer on the respective stepper driver. Turn it clockwise until your motors stop skipping steps.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n1373,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,emackey,2.8153892694839717,5.052162652231214,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,1.8746593652159236,1.5532602411371876,Good methods to clean extruder gear (hobbed) from filament pieces?,\"I'm using a CraftBot original to print PLA, but some of the filament has become stuck in the teeth of the extruder gear on its way into the hot end. I'm having issues with the gear becoming stuck and \"\"clicking\"\" instead of turning, and I suspect it is because of the clogged teeth. I haven't changed materials in a long time. I've cleared several print head clogs, but each time the gear gets back around to the one spot, it seems to get stuck again.\n\nAre there any good ways to clean this gear? I was thinking of putting it in a toaster oven and trying to melt the PLA off it, ideally without setting my house on fire in the process. Anyone have better ideas?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"If you are able to remove the gear, as I suspect you can, a useful tool is the file card. It resembles a flat hair brush but the bristles are short wire, very stiff. In traditional use, it removes metal shavings from conventional metal files. It will easily remove plastic from between the gear teeth. If you are unable to remove the gear, but can access a portion of the exposed teeth, a suitably named dental pick can remove slowly the clogged material.\n\nCooking the gear may not cause a fire, but could carbonize the plastic onto the teeth, perhaps creating a greater problem.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1373,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,emackey,2.8153892694839717,5.052162652231214,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,1.8746593652159236,1.5532602411371876,Good methods to clean extruder gear (hobbed) from filament pieces?,\"I'm using a CraftBot original to print PLA, but some of the filament has become stuck in the teeth of the extruder gear on its way into the hot end. I'm having issues with the gear becoming stuck and \"\"clicking\"\" instead of turning, and I suspect it is because of the clogged teeth. I haven't changed materials in a long time. I've cleared several print head clogs, but each time the gear gets back around to the one spot, it seems to get stuck again.\n\nAre there any good ways to clean this gear? I was thinking of putting it in a toaster oven and trying to melt the PLA off it, ideally without setting my house on fire in the process. Anyone have better ideas?\n\",ben,\"I mostly use a tooth brush for that kind of problem\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n1399,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,emackey,3.452496054252184,6.352402128689893,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.859356439026359,Any fix for PLA prints getting more brittle over time?,\"I've been printing small quantities from a PLA filament spool on a Craftbot printer for about two months now. Recently the printed objects have been coming out very brittle. Some structures that printed fine two months ago are now difficult to re-print. The print head gets clogged easily, and when the object does print, it's quite brittle and 1/4\"\" to 1/8\"\" rods will easily snap off if not handled gently.\n\nI'll admit to not following the precautions for storage of PLA. It's much easier to just leave the filament installed rather than trying to remove it after each print, so this one spool has just been sitting on the back of the printer for all these weeks now. I'm sure it's been humid some of the days, we've had some rain here.\n\nHas the spool of PLA been damaged just by leaving it exposed to room air for two months? Could that be the sole cause of the brittle prints, or are there other possible causes? Is there any way to fix the spool or future prints from this spool, or do I have to scrap it and get a new spool?\n\",tbm0115,\"PLA absorbs moisture, so keeping the filament dry is a key factor. Aside from that, PLA is naturally more brittle than other plastics like ABS and Nylon Sorry, tried to find a graph to prove it, but couldn't find one.\n\nThere's a good Google Group discussion and many other resources that go over good storage habits, but as for fixing the existing filament.\n\nTry the following: \n\n\nPlace PLA in an enclosure (plastic bin, Zip-loc bag, etc.)\nIf you have some, add some moisture absorber(s)\nPlace the tub in a warm environment (naturally or artificially) and make sure the area is dry as possible (not in the shed in the back, by the woods...). Possibly next to a heater vent or space heater in your house?\n\n\nEssentially, you're trying to treat the material. When the material goes through a heat treatment (aka the heat block in the extruder), the mechanical properties are beginning to change. The brittleness can be set by how quickly the material cools. I'm speculating that the moisture does any of the following:\n\n\nKeeps the filament from heating up to the desired extrusion temperature.\nBurns the filament.\nThe moisture is evaporated, leaving gaps in the extruded filament (under microscope).\n\n\nI looked into this a few years ago and have forgotten most of what I found out, but I'll keep looking and update my answer here.\n\",3.2133663407215876,0.0\n1399,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,emackey,3.452496054252184,6.352402128689893,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.859356439026359,Any fix for PLA prints getting more brittle over time?,\"I've been printing small quantities from a PLA filament spool on a Craftbot printer for about two months now. Recently the printed objects have been coming out very brittle. Some structures that printed fine two months ago are now difficult to re-print. The print head gets clogged easily, and when the object does print, it's quite brittle and 1/4\"\" to 1/8\"\" rods will easily snap off if not handled gently.\n\nI'll admit to not following the precautions for storage of PLA. It's much easier to just leave the filament installed rather than trying to remove it after each print, so this one spool has just been sitting on the back of the printer for all these weeks now. I'm sure it's been humid some of the days, we've had some rain here.\n\nHas the spool of PLA been damaged just by leaving it exposed to room air for two months? Could that be the sole cause of the brittle prints, or are there other possible causes? Is there any way to fix the spool or future prints from this spool, or do I have to scrap it and get a new spool?\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"Increase nozzle temperature. When the filament is new it will print easier, requiring less heat to print well. So if you didn't store your filament properly to begin with, increasing print temperature will make it jam less and increase layer bonding. \n\nThe reason for this is because the moisture that accumulates in the filament will absorb heat and evaporate when printed, meaning that the filament itself isn't getting the same amount of heating as it used to.\n\nThat being said, the storage suggestions mentioned by tbm should be your first priority. I personally put my filament in Zip Lock plastic bags and store these in a dry location not exposed to sun or temperature changes.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n1379,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jash Jacob,1.726248027126092,3.25325199599518,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,What are some cheaper versions of Multi Jet 3D printing?,\"I noticed 3Dsystems has Multi Jet 3D printing where wax is used provide support and give users with high resolution 3D printed objects. I was wondering if there were cheaper and smaller Multi Jet 3D printing?\n\nCan Form 1+ from FormLabs be considered to do the same job with resin?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Objet by Stratasys is a comparable technology (they call it PolyJet). SolidScape is also somewhat comparable (they also use jetting).\n\nThe FormLabs printers are not comparable. They use a completely different process, which can only print in one material. With jetting, you can mix different materials in the same part.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n1410,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jash Jacob,4.255155677057378,6.166786261443555,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,5.195138047661548,5.831495190585354,How does the sizes of nozzle diameter and the Z-axis layer resolution work?,\"I have a 3D Printer with 0.4 mm (400 micron) nozzle length and the printer guide suggests that it can print up to a layer thickness of 60 micron and has a accuracy up to 100 micron. \n\nWhat I'm trying to understand is that, how does the 0.4 mm nozzle output a filament size lesser than it? How does that process work? Does it reduce the speed at which the filament flows or something?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Yes, they do reduce the speed. Basically, the speed at which you feed filament determines how large of a volume comes out, and the distance you move the extruder means this volume gets distributed over this distance. However, this is not the whole story.\n\nThe size of your nozzle determines only two things: the maximum layer height and the minimum feature size. It does not affect minimum layer height (and obviously doesn't affect maximum feature size) although there are some practical constraints (you wouldn't want to print 0.1 mm layers with a 5 mm nozzle).\n\nThe nozzle squishes the filament down as it is extruded; the filament is basically forced into the gap between the nozzle and the previous layer. There's no limit to how thin of a layer you can print (the 60 micron figure is just something the marketing department made up, you can likely print even thinner layers). So long as you can position your Z-axis with sufficient accuracy (which is usually no problem) you can print arbitrarily thin layers.\n\nOn the other hand, the nozzle size does determine the maximum layer height. Your need the filament to be squished a bit, or else it won't stick to the previous layer properly. You can't print layers thicker than your nozzle size, and it is generally recommended to print with a layer size that is at most 80 % of your nozzle size (e.g. with a 0.4 mm nozzle you shouldn't attempt to print layers thicker than 0.32 mm) but this is just a guideline.\n\nYour extrusion width is the width of the line deposited by your nozzle. This is generally (due to the mentioned squishing) a bit larger than your nozzle size. With a 0.4 mm nozzle you should set your extrusion width to something slightly larger, like 0.5 mm. It is technically possible to print with an extrusion width that is the same as (or even smaller) than your nozzle size, but this results in very weak prints: as mentioned before, you want the plastic to get squished slightly.\n\nThey claim an accuracy up to 100 micron. This doesn't mean that you can print features as small as 100 micron (since you can't, due to the extrusion width being much larger). What this means, is for example, that if you print a 10 mm cube, you should expect its real size to be between 9.9 mm and 10.1 mm. Such a cube does not have any features that are smaller than your minimum feature size, but its outer walls can be positioned with greater precision than this minimum feature size.\n\nI should caution you that the 100 micron figure is \"\"up to\"\" and in practice you will have a hard time achieving this.\n\",4.452510692745205,2.0769199823829045\n1468,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jash Jacob,3.618048892289167,6.002719424587222,2.7799718631987322,2.011441651225199,4.091740895605862,4.592941926651472,Does the layer thickness have any effect of the strength of the 3D printed object?,\"Is a 100 micron layer thickness object stronger than 300 micron layer thickness 3D printed object? Are there any rules to follow? \n\nFilament type - PLA\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"3D Matter has published an excellent article on the subject. They find that thicker layers result in a stronger part, with 0.3mm layers giving a part that is around 24% stronger than the same part printed with 0.1mm layers.\n\nOne small issue with this study is that it did not look at the effects of temperature. Raising the temperature generally results in stronger parts because the layers will fuse better. It is possible that you could make a 0.1mm part just as strong as a 0.3mm part by raising the printing temperature.\n\nAnother consideration for inter-layer bonding is how much the next layer is \"\"squished\"\" onto the previous one. Using a wider extrusion width will improve strength.\n\nThe main issue with the strength of FDM parts is that they tend to break much easier along the layers, much like how wood is much stronger across the grain. You have to take this into account when making your design, and ensure that features that will be subjected to stress/strain are printed in the XY-plane.\n\",3.5068404193471867,2.0769199823829045\n2654,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jash Jacob,3.267423727073639,4.527888691254233,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.9505769891325135,How to 3D print an object with variable printing speed?,\"I have a object to print for which I want the base to be printed very rapidly because it's just a cube but as the print reached around 70% a complex circular structure needs to be printed at a slower speed. Is there any way I could control the speed at the given percentage of job done?\n\nI want the cube to be printed at 50mm/s and the complex circular structure at 40mm/s.\n\nPrinter Type - FDM\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"As @fred_dot_u mentions, Simplify3D has the capability to do this, but you can achieve the same effect by slicing the file twice, once at 40mm/s and once at 50mm/s, and then manually combining the generated G-code using a text editor. You should be able to find the point where it transitions from printing the cube to printing the circular structure by looking at the Z-height, and you can simply copy-paste the G-code from that point onward from the 40mm/s file into the 50mm/s file.\n\nFor instance, you might look for a point like this in the G-code (Cura):\n\nG1 F3600 X113.543 Y94.098 E105.96969\n;LAYER:25\nG0 F7800 X113.743 Y91.369 Z2.700\n\n\nor this (Simplify3D)\n\nG1 X175.981 Y74.019 F2880\n; layer 25, Z = 1.869\n; inner perimeter\nG1 X162.982 Y57.870 F7500\nG1 Z2.069 F900\n\n\nNote that the both include a comment line (a line that starts with ;) to indicate the layer. Everything before that you should copy from one file, everything afterwards from the other.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n2654,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jash Jacob,3.267423727073639,4.527888691254233,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.9505769891325135,How to 3D print an object with variable printing speed?,\"I have a object to print for which I want the base to be printed very rapidly because it's just a cube but as the print reached around 70% a complex circular structure needs to be printed at a slower speed. Is there any way I could control the speed at the given percentage of job done?\n\nI want the cube to be printed at 50mm/s and the complex circular structure at 40mm/s.\n\nPrinter Type - FDM\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Simplify3D has the ability to create more than one process, to be applied to the model at specific layers. It appears that feature fits perfectly with your requirements. As an example, you might create a process within S3D for layers 1 to 500 at the desired 50 mm / sec along with any other modifications you wish. The second process would specify layers 501 to 800 to be printed at 40 mm / sec.\n\nThe preview mode of S3D allows you to identify layer numbers in order to provide the necessary precision.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n2723,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jash Jacob,2.1782824847157594,3.9708414959730765,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,TPU filament usage for dental application?,\"Can the flexible TPU filament be used in the case of printing a dental fixture?\n\nFilament - SainSmart 1.75mm 1kg/2.2lb Flexible (TPU) Series Filament for 3D Printers RepRap.\n\",StarWind0,\"There are a Ton of issues with using this type of material. First off there is no way anything that comes out of your FDM printer will be sanitary enough to meet the requirements for medical applications. Your nozzle might even be contain Lead. Last you would need this printer to be cleaned to clean room standards. As well as stored and operated in one..\n\nSecond I have not heard of a flexible material that meets FDA requirements. (which is not the same as does not) You have to worry about even the additives they add for color. Or straight up contamination of the material. \n\nI do want to mention that there are people who use SLA printers for dental items. I cannot say how SLA would meet food or medical grade requirements. My guess is a lack of regulation. \n\nSo a bad idea I would say...\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4345,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jash Jacob,1.0891412423578797,4.888933898446669,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Using HIPS as support for PLA printing?,\"I have a question. I have a dual extruder printer and I want to try using HIPS for printing. Can I use PLA as my main material and HIPS for supports?\n\nSearching online I found combinations of ABS + HIPS mentioned. No where is it mentioned that It can be used. \n\",tjb1,\"You can as PLA is not affected by Limonene (the chemical used to dissolve the HIPS) but it is not recommended as the print temperatures for each material (~180C for PLA and ~230C for HIPS) are quite far apart and the PLA may not stick to the HIPS.\n\nA better choice would be PVA which prints ~185C and dissolves in water but this material has its own set of fun issues.\n\n*Temperatures are estimates, different vendors may have different temperatures.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n1383,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hiisi T,3.618048892289167,4.955830933643771,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,How to create tappered thread in OpenSCAD?,\"Is there any simple way of creating tappered thread in OpenSCAD? I need something like 10 mm in diameter at the end, 9 at the top and the height of 10 mm.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"If your math and OpenSCAD skills are superior to mine, you may be able to make use of the OpenSCAD Metric Nut, Bolt & Threads Library located here:\nOpenSCAD Metric Nut, Bolt & Threads Library\n\nIt uses various means to generate polygons about a radius and includes the formulae for partial revolutions. It is presumed in the design that the center of rotation for the generated polygons is constant. I looked over the code for outside thread and could easily determine the radius references.\n\nWith proper coding, you could generate a variable radius based on the height of the cylinder at a specific point and achieve the tapered effect you require. \n\nI expect that you'd have to reduce your desired radius by a fraction, say 0.05 mm in order to embed the thread forming polygons within your tapered cylinder.\n\nIf you aren't a strong coder, disregard this answer.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n1383,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hiisi T,3.618048892289167,4.955830933643771,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,How to create tappered thread in OpenSCAD?,\"Is there any simple way of creating tappered thread in OpenSCAD? I need something like 10 mm in diameter at the end, 9 at the top and the height of 10 mm.\n\",Hiisi T,\"I have contacted Dan Kirshner (the author of openscad threads library) and he has updated the library. Now it supports tapered threads. Thanks, Dan!\n\nThread-drawing modules for OpenSCAD\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n1389,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SF.,2.1782824847157594,4.521445274206295,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,How much work would be converting Prusa firmware/software for CNC use?,\"I have an option to purchase a hobby multi-purpose device (lathe/mill/drill/grinder/cutter) which is manually controlled, but easily converted for driving by stepper motors (all 3 axis are controlled by turning knobs that can be replaced by gears, with convenient mount to couple each to a stepper motor). I have the right motors and can easily obtain drivers for them.\n\n\n\nThat is the way to overcome the worst problem of converting Prusa to CNC: the flimsy mechanics not able to withstand stress and vibrations of machining. Then I can connect the drivers to the 3 axis of Prusa's electronics, optionally connect some driver of the spindle to the extruder output (or just control it manually), and it seems the hardware side of the device is done.\n\nThe problem is the rest - adapting the software. RepRap family of 3D printers being open source means their software and hardware can be adapted. It's only a matter of how hard it is.\n\nDoes anyone have any experience in that direction? What would such conversion involve? Just recalibration to the new gear/leadscrew ratios, or something more involved, like editing the sources to get rid of all the temperature safeguards and the likes?\n\",tbm0115,\"Disclaimer\n\nQuestions about other machines is still in kind of a grey area right now 06/2016 and your question is, in my opinion, a bit too broad. However, I think it's a great topic to perhaps help direct the scope of this community.\n\nThe lowdown\n\n\n3D printers, CNC Mills, CNC Lathes, CNC Routers, and Lasers are all very different! There are certainly areas where each of these may overlap, but the methodology is very different overall.\nSoftware is not always interchangeable across machines (even within the same machine type) due to hardware requirements/communication.\nHardware is not always interchangeable across machines (even within the same machine type) due to design/scope of the purpose of the machine.\n\n\nThings to consider\n\n(In a nut-shell)\n\n3D Printers\n\nHardware\n\n\nMinimal speed/torque requirements compared to subtractive machine tools.\nGood designs focus on temperature control via enclosures and/or electronics.\n(Typically) uses heat block/nozzle/stepper motor to control material size/flow.\n\n\nSoftware\n\n\nEmphasis on \"\"plug-n-play\"\" UI/UX\nConceptually easier to generate tool paths. STL's provide outlines and software fills in the blanks like a coloring book.\nFocus is on understanding material properties and temperature variability.\n\n\nCommon Variability\n\n\nMaterial quality/shape\nEnvironment temperature\n\n\nCNC Mills/Routers/Lathes\n\nHardware\n\n\nMaximum speed/torque requirements.\nGood designs focus on rigid designs and handling harmonics.\nTighter tolerance components to ensure mechanical repeatability.\nRelies on cutting tool size/shape to control material size/flow.\n\n\nSoftware\n\n\nRequires more manual input (typically) to account for where its tool is located. The mathematics heavily depend on accurate dimensions for the cutting tools, otherwise you could damage your part or the machine.\nGood software allows many different \"\"canned\"\" tool paths for efficiency, tool types, and achieving desired surface finish.\nFocus is on variability in cutting tool and speeds/feeds (as recommended by cutting tool suppliers for materials)\n\n\nCommon Variability\n\n\nMaterial shape/hardness\nCutting tool shape/hardness\nCutting tool path\n\n\nLasers\n\nHardware\n\n\nMinimal speed/torque requirements.\nGood designs focus on consistent beam quality and spot focus, which is relative to constant power.\nUses focusing lens (sets spot size) to control material size.\n\n\nSoftware\n\n\nEmphasis on \"\"plug-n-play\"\" UI/UX and interoperability.\nDimensions are easier to achieve as less variability in the process compared to 3D printing/machining.\nFocus is on laser power (typically for material type and depth).\n\n\nCommon Variability\n\n\nLaser type\nSpot size \nPower supply\n\n\nSummary\n\nOverall there are many, very different variables to consider between these technologies. I only focused on variables you might see out of a hobbyist-style machine and if you've operated any of these you'll know that there are many more variables that pop up for any of these machines.\n\nSo, do not expect such a plug-n-play solution as each machine requires quality construction of its hardware, the ability to handle the variability of the process in its software, and, above all, an operator that understands the correlation and balance of these components.\n\nAll of that being said, there are some machines that seem to be tailored to this such as the machine by Diyouware and ZMorph (No affiliation, just examples). However, notice that they have created their own software to meet a lot of these communication requirements.\n\nUpdate\nI forgot to mention the fact that a kink in creating a interchangeable machine is the control interface. The controller converts the \"\"software speak\"\" into an easily parsed series of functions (typically G-Code) for the small computer to process its predetermined hardware processes. Ie, The slicer or CAM software determines that a layer of a circle be 3D printed, milled, routered, or lasered, so the controller should G02I2 which could parse to (For all intents and purposes in javascript, not a practical language) CWCircularInterpolation(2,null,null,null,null,null) and run as:\n\nfunction CWCircularInterpolation(i,j,k,x,y,z){\n //Some code to take current position and command to create a canned circle path\n}\n\n\nThe point is that the software needs to handle the conditions and constraints of a different machining process and provide a well-equipped machine with the right commands. There are a lot of different things to consider in attempting to combine these machining techniques into a single machine and get quality results.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1389,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SF.,2.1782824847157594,4.521445274206295,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,How much work would be converting Prusa firmware/software for CNC use?,\"I have an option to purchase a hobby multi-purpose device (lathe/mill/drill/grinder/cutter) which is manually controlled, but easily converted for driving by stepper motors (all 3 axis are controlled by turning knobs that can be replaced by gears, with convenient mount to couple each to a stepper motor). I have the right motors and can easily obtain drivers for them.\n\n\n\nThat is the way to overcome the worst problem of converting Prusa to CNC: the flimsy mechanics not able to withstand stress and vibrations of machining. Then I can connect the drivers to the 3 axis of Prusa's electronics, optionally connect some driver of the spindle to the extruder output (or just control it manually), and it seems the hardware side of the device is done.\n\nThe problem is the rest - adapting the software. RepRap family of 3D printers being open source means their software and hardware can be adapted. It's only a matter of how hard it is.\n\nDoes anyone have any experience in that direction? What would such conversion involve? Just recalibration to the new gear/leadscrew ratios, or something more involved, like editing the sources to get rid of all the temperature safeguards and the likes?\n\",SF.,\"None, if I choose the right control board.\n\nThe Smoothieboard supports CNC \"\"out of the box\"\"; it requires initial configuration, which, while somewhat different, is actually easier than for a 3D printer. Boards supporting Grbl or Teacup will be compatible for XYZ too, but may require some tinkering if you want to control the spindle.\n\nYou can use the same CAD software, but the set of CAM tools will need to be considerably different.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n1403,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Elva,2.8153892694839717,2.877598637377739,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,What should I pay attention to after taking a 3d printer from extended storage,\"So I have a self build Mendel Reprap style 3d printer.\n\nI've not used it in sometime after moving house but I'm looking to use it again. What should I pay attention to before calibrating and running it again?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The main thing that might have changed is the bed level, so you should level the bed again. If your printer is sufficiently sturdy, this may not even be necessary (but this should become apparent during your first print). The remaining calibration parameters (steps per mm for all axes, PID tuning, etc...) should not have changed.\n\nYou should perhaps also check for any bolts/nuts/cables that might have come loose during transport. This is not particularly likely to have happened, unless something was loose to begin with.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n1403,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Elva,2.8153892694839717,2.877598637377739,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,What should I pay attention to after taking a 3d printer from extended storage,\"So I have a self build Mendel Reprap style 3d printer.\n\nI've not used it in sometime after moving house but I'm looking to use it again. What should I pay attention to before calibrating and running it again?\n\",kamuro,\"After storage you can check the following things before taking the machine into operation again:\n\n\nAre all cables intact? You wouldn't want lose cables shorting your circuits, nor cables that may have become brittle or loose to break the circuitry during operation.\nWipe off dust of the axes. Depending on your design, this might not be a big issue. However, it does not take too much time and doesn't hurt. If you're using bushings, you don't want the dust shortening the lifetime of your rods/bushings if it is that easily avoidable. (side-note: the lifetime of bushings in regular 3D Printing use is more than you can print)\nApply fresh grease/oil, depending on what design your printer follows. The old grease/oil might have come off or aged.\nWipe off dust from the bed. - No dust on the nozzle, no dust embedded in your print.\nWhile they most likely will not change, there is a chance that your thermistors are off. This property should be given by the manufacturer as max. drift/year.\nCheck your belts and pulleys. The belts might have come loose - tighten them again. If they lost their elasticity (does the 'curve' it made around the pulley stay to some extent?) they might need to be replaced.\nCheck your fans when turning on the printer. You wouldn't want to lose electronics when you can cover this with a look, however unlikely it might be.\n\n\nHappy calibrating after that ;)\n\n*edit:\nAs Tom already pointe out, most of these things are unlikely, due to the usually rigid construction of the printer. These are merely more or less likely possibilities of things that can go bad or worse in storage.\n*/edit\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n1430,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,MathFromScratch,3.452496054252184,5.648148224946201,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.1827783713261073,-1.5532602411371876,ABS Filament safety concerns,\"I have the XYZPrinting da-Vinci-1.0 with ABS filament. I am concerned about ventilation. If this is used inside, what safety precautions are necessary, which are recommended, and/or which are optional?\n\",tbm0115,\"Most reputable suppliers of filament should have MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) available for the material they are providing. This sheet should provide you with some mechanical, electrical, and chemical properties as well as safety concerns. For the most part an ABS MSDS will tell you that it can be harmful to inhale or consume ABS in any phase state (solid, gas, liquid, etc.).\n\nAlthough you didn't explicitly state it in your question, your ventilation tag will lead to some pretty good answers to a somewhat related question about air filtration options.\n\",0.0,0.0\n1430,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,MathFromScratch,3.452496054252184,5.648148224946201,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.1827783713261073,-1.5532602411371876,ABS Filament safety concerns,\"I have the XYZPrinting da-Vinci-1.0 with ABS filament. I am concerned about ventilation. If this is used inside, what safety precautions are necessary, which are recommended, and/or which are optional?\n\",Thaviel,\"your fine at practical temperatures.\nsource: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylonitrile_butadiene_styrene#Hazard_for_humans\n\nrecommended would probably be set your controller to not go above 380c if your really worried. but it's not needed.\n\",-2.845827522384412,0.0\n1434,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mamdouh abdelfatah,2.1782824847157594,5.958076219844386,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.585260288142579,How can I program a 3D printer to move using Arduino?,\"I search about that topic, but all what I found, was the mechanical part of the 3d printer. But I didn't find, how to program it using arduino.\n\nI want to make a cartesian 3d printer. I don't have a printer yet, but I will buy all the components that I need actually.\n\nI know, how to control stepper motors, but I don't know, how I can program it in order to make the shape that I want.\n\nThis is my question: what I need to learn in order to let this 3d printer make this shapes?\n\",StarWind0,\"Yes. \nLook up Arduino Ramps 1.4\n\nhttp://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4\n\nFollowing the programing is all done for you in the firmware. That said you can edit it. Just open the firmware files -- it is compiled when you upload them. Generally however one usually sticks to the preferences header alone..\n\nhttp://reprap.org/wiki/List_of_Firmware\n\nOver all you are trying to reinvent the wheel. When I started 5-6 years ago it was barely a thing. Now you buy a proven kit and get to the printing. That said if you are truly interested in designing check out. \n\nhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/cncbuilddesign/\n\nIf you want help on picking a kit. Or what I really think you are looking for. A good place to start. This is one of the larger 3d printing groups. Full disclosure I run this one, but at 6k members I don't recruit. \n\nhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/3DPrinterHobbyists/\n\nI got my start in reprap IRC\n\nhttp://reprap.org/wiki/IRC\n\nBe aware there are trolls that now camp the IRC looking to sell you a printer. I would not engage with them, their printers are usually overpriced and sub par. \n\nBest of luck.\n\nMost of all I think you need to know it's Reprap all the way. Reprap forums, Reprap printers, Reprap kits, Reprap community. All the commercial printers started off the reprap project. Even if you buy a makerbot (don't) it's Reprap in it's roots.\n\nhttps://vimeo.com/5202148\n\",3.0411126502294303,0.0\n1434,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mamdouh abdelfatah,2.1782824847157594,5.958076219844386,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.585260288142579,How can I program a 3D printer to move using Arduino?,\"I search about that topic, but all what I found, was the mechanical part of the 3d printer. But I didn't find, how to program it using arduino.\n\nI want to make a cartesian 3d printer. I don't have a printer yet, but I will buy all the components that I need actually.\n\nI know, how to control stepper motors, but I don't know, how I can program it in order to make the shape that I want.\n\nThis is my question: what I need to learn in order to let this 3d printer make this shapes?\n\",Jexoteric,\"While Star Wind's answer is best as far as addressing what was not asked, but was probably the intent of the question, for educational purposes:\n\nTo control the printer you need an microcontroller (most popular are Arduino) which will interface with the motor drivers. Microcontrollers cannot output the current needed to control the motors, so motor drivers (such as this https://www.pololu.com/product/1182 ) are easy ways to control a stepper motor with higher current (and usually voltage). You can build your own if you are particularlly adventurous, they are essentially two H-bridge circuits.\n\nThe Arduino programming environment has a library for controlling stepper motors through a driver built in, you just tell it which pin to send the pulses to, and how fast, and a separate pin tells it to spin clockwise or counterclockwise. \n\nFor a 3D printer you need at least four motors working in unison, one for the X, Y, Z axis, and one for the extruder (E axis). \n\nThe existing programs that 3D printers use (Marlin, Sprinter, Teacup, etc) are all doing these simple steps at their core, but have implemented libraries of G-code that the printer uses to make control the stepper motors in unison to make the correct shape. Slicing programs such as Cura or Slic3r take in the 3D model and output the Gcode that the microcontroller is programmed to understand. \n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n1442,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dvsn,2.8153892694839717,5.448347024634382,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,How can I export a Materialise Magics Project as a STL file?,\"I created a new project in Materialise Magics, added a few parts (different STLs), moved them around in certain positions and now I want to export this project into another STL, containing my recent work.\n\nThe export menu seems to be all grey, like this function is not available. Do I have to do some repairing first or something similar? Or Magics needs other software in order to export a Magics Project to a STL file?\n\",MarcAndrew Laurenvil,\"Instead of using save project as or export click save part as, this defaults to an STL file.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1442,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dvsn,2.8153892694839717,5.448347024634382,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,How can I export a Materialise Magics Project as a STL file?,\"I created a new project in Materialise Magics, added a few parts (different STLs), moved them around in certain positions and now I want to export this project into another STL, containing my recent work.\n\nThe export menu seems to be all grey, like this function is not available. Do I have to do some repairing first or something similar? Or Magics needs other software in order to export a Magics Project to a STL file?\n\",rp-mcguire,\"I gather from your post that you are trying to export a build file containing multiple individual pieces, possibly to be printed. I suggest using the 'Merge' tool to join each of the individual STL's into one file. You can then save it as as single part or export it to a printer. This information comes from my experience as an Additive manufacturing technician. The following link is a Github repo containing a workflow on this process:\n\nMagic's Build File Creation\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n1449,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dennis Rose,3.0576060275493275,6.270263404653306,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.265283966335819,\"What are the costs per meter of filament for PLA, ABS and PET?\",\"My Craftbot Plus Craftware slicer estimates cost per job based on filament prices I add as parameters. What costs per meter would you use? I created spreadsheets to calculate this for 1.75mm diameter filament and arrived at PLA = 6.6 cents per meter, ABS = 6.1 and PET XT = 18.6 cents per meter.\n\nEdit: thanks for feedback! I paid \\$22 per kilogram for PLA and ABS. I paid \\$57 for .75 kilogram of Colorfab XT Black.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"This strongly depends on the cost of the spool in question. Prices are not consistent among materials at all; a spool of ABS can cost anywhere from \\$15 to \\$60 and the same price range applies to pretty much all other plastic.\n\nFor the purpose of this question I am going to assume that a 1 kilogram spool costs \\$25 (regardless of material) but you can scale the figures to what is appropriate for your brand of filament.\n\nToyBuilder Labs lists the density of ABS at 1.04g/ml, whereas PLA is somewhat more dense at 1.25g/ml. As such, a 1kg spool of ABS would be 400 meters (1.75mm filament) or 156 meters (2.85mm filament). PLA would come out to 333 meters (125 meters for 2.85mm filament)\n\nWe thus have the following costs (cost per meter for 2.85mm filament in parenthesis):\n\n\nABS: 6.25 cents/meter (16)\nPLA: 7.5 cents/meter (20)\n\n\nThe density of PETG is roughly the same as PLA, so they have the same cost per meter (for similarly priced spools).\n\nIn general, to compute the cost per meter, you would use the following formula:\n\n$$[\\text{\\$/m}]=[\\text{cost of 1 }kg] \\times [\\text{density in }g/mm^3] \\times \\frac{[\\text{diameter in }mm]^2\\ \\times \\pi }{4000}$$\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n1449,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dennis Rose,3.0576060275493275,6.270263404653306,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.265283966335819,\"What are the costs per meter of filament for PLA, ABS and PET?\",\"My Craftbot Plus Craftware slicer estimates cost per job based on filament prices I add as parameters. What costs per meter would you use? I created spreadsheets to calculate this for 1.75mm diameter filament and arrived at PLA = 6.6 cents per meter, ABS = 6.1 and PET XT = 18.6 cents per meter.\n\nEdit: thanks for feedback! I paid \\$22 per kilogram for PLA and ABS. I paid \\$57 for .75 kilogram of Colorfab XT Black.\n\",darth pixel,\"The simplest method is to divide spool price by its length. That's obvious I think. If PLA 1.75 (1kg net) has about 120m length and it costs 16usd then it looks like 1m costs arount 13c. =price/length\n\nI think everyone can buy different filament at different price from different vendors so there is no good general price to enter into your slicer app. It has to be calculated each time you use new filament.\n\nThere are also other parts of the price. Electricity, time, wear, depreciation, know-how even the rent is some part of the ending price of the final product. Of course most of them are incalculable as they are permiles or so. But if you don't plan to sell it you can base on the filament price only.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1451,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,DELTA12,2.1782824847157594,3.7393256487986095,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,1.878685800062712,Prints get really messy for no apparent reason,\"I have a serious problem and I can't find a way to solve it because I have no idea why is it happening.\nFor some reason the things I print get really messy, like a mountain range growing on the print. It looks like overflow but it can't be because I'm already using 0.82 flow modifier and if I go any lower the printout will fall apart as the extrusions won't touch at all. I've double checked my extruder steps and my filament and also my nozzle width, all are set up correctly. The whole thing looks like the printer is over-extruding just in some parts of the print.\n\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"Your printer could be calibrated too close to the bed: if your slicer is set to use a 0.4mm first layer height, but the printer actually moves the nozzle 0.2mm from the bed, then you will get this result.\n\nIf this is the case, the first layers look over extruded and squashed, while layers after sparse infill has been printed will look fine. The support structure will in this case give room for the extra filament, making the extrusion look normal again (although it probably was fine all along).\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1451,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,DELTA12,2.1782824847157594,3.7393256487986095,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,1.878685800062712,Prints get really messy for no apparent reason,\"I have a serious problem and I can't find a way to solve it because I have no idea why is it happening.\nFor some reason the things I print get really messy, like a mountain range growing on the print. It looks like overflow but it can't be because I'm already using 0.82 flow modifier and if I go any lower the printout will fall apart as the extrusions won't touch at all. I've double checked my extruder steps and my filament and also my nozzle width, all are set up correctly. The whole thing looks like the printer is over-extruding just in some parts of the print.\n\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"This is happening on the first or second layer, correct? It looks like your nozzle is trammed too close to the build plate. If there is less gap between the nozzle and bed than the slicer expects, it will over-extrude the first layer. That tends to produce \"\"bacon\"\" patterns of ripples on the bottom of the print as the plastic gets unevenly squeezed out to the side of the strand. \n\",0.0,0.0\n1460,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,xxx,2.528907649931287,5.491141807806142,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Bed leveling method not working with Repetier firmware 0.92.9?,\"I homebuilt a delta 3D printer (like Kossel mini) with a Z probe near the hotend with manual deploy and RAMPS 1.4 board:\n\n\nI configured the Repetier firmware with the online tool;\nAll my endstops (included the Z probe endstop) work in reverse mode, so I reversed the endstops triggering option;\nI enabled Z-probing and set the BED_LEVELING_METHOD to 1 (n*n grid);\nI set Z_PROBE_REPETITIONS to 3, and;\nFinally I downloaded it and uploaded to my Mega 2560.\n\n\nThen I tested it inside Repetier-Host and all seems to work well (homing, moving, extruding) except for the Autobed leveling method.\n\nSpecifically, it always starts measurement of 3 Points (with 3 probe repetition each) even if I change the type of measurement.\nIt never does a grid measurement or a 2 points mirror measurement.\n\nI also tried to re-upload the firmware with EEPROM_MODE to 0 but didn't work.\n\nDoes anyone have the same issue, or can explain to me why this happens?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"Delta bed leveling has been dodgy in Repetier for a long time. There are a number of fixes occurring in the dev branch right now (June 2016) if you look at Github. So it's getting better, but I wouldn't call it mature yet. (Delta auto-calibration is one of the only big shortcomings of Repetier, in my opinion.)\n\nThe problem with approaches like bed plane compensation and grid/mesh leveling for Deltas is that they don't fix print geometry errors caused by imprecise printer construction. They just help get the first layer down. What I would recommend is to use one of the non-Repetier delta auto-calibration techniques available in order to get your firmware settings correct, and then you won't need to use \"\"slap a bandaid on a calibration problem\"\" solutions like grid leveling. Two popular options:\n\n\nLoad Rich Cattell's Marlin branch, perform auto-calibration, record the adjusted values, and then load those parameters into Repetier. This will usually work well enough that you don't need to attempt any kind of auto-leveling in Repetier. (I don't recommend actually printing with Marlin on a Delta due to lack of performance optimization. Repetier can print much, much faster while managing more features like LCDs. Marlin gets bogged down doing all the Delta kinematics math unless you print very slow.)\nUse David Crocker's awesome online delta calibration tool. I'd recommend using six-factor calibration with 10 probe points. This is the manual version of the auto-calibration technique built into dc42 RepRapFirmware, and it's practically magical compared to the routines built into Repetier. \n\n\nSidenote: Grid leveling can be a very useful technique for large printers where bed flatness is difficult to achieve. It's just very limited as a way to deal with delta calibration problems. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1460,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,xxx,2.528907649931287,5.491141807806142,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Bed leveling method not working with Repetier firmware 0.92.9?,\"I homebuilt a delta 3D printer (like Kossel mini) with a Z probe near the hotend with manual deploy and RAMPS 1.4 board:\n\n\nI configured the Repetier firmware with the online tool;\nAll my endstops (included the Z probe endstop) work in reverse mode, so I reversed the endstops triggering option;\nI enabled Z-probing and set the BED_LEVELING_METHOD to 1 (n*n grid);\nI set Z_PROBE_REPETITIONS to 3, and;\nFinally I downloaded it and uploaded to my Mega 2560.\n\n\nThen I tested it inside Repetier-Host and all seems to work well (homing, moving, extruding) except for the Autobed leveling method.\n\nSpecifically, it always starts measurement of 3 Points (with 3 probe repetition each) even if I change the type of measurement.\nIt never does a grid measurement or a 2 points mirror measurement.\n\nI also tried to re-upload the firmware with EEPROM_MODE to 0 but didn't work.\n\nDoes anyone have the same issue, or can explain to me why this happens?\n\",Repetier,\"As a guess, you are using the wrong command. If set for n x n grid, you get 3 point measurement with G29, but that is not auto leveling, it is just setting Z height - based on average height at 3 points.\n\nWhat you need is G32 S2 with S2 to store result in EEPROM (and therefore you should have EEPROM enabled with auto leveling. It is also used to store endstop offsets).\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n1489,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,xxx,3.0576060275493275,4.985570320853716,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Distortion calibration on XY plane in Repetier,\"I built a delta 3d printer (like a mini Kossel) and now I'm trying to calibrate it. I made all the horizontal and vertical bars myself with wood and I bought angle joints (between bars) made with 3D printed ABS. \n\nIt passes all tests in Z correction tools calibration. I used a z-probe (with manual deploying) to calibrate it with G32 and G33 commands.\n\nNow I'm trying to calibrate the distortion that takes place on the x and y axes.\nBasically what happens is that in a test cube of 10x10x10mm it is translated on x and y axes at some points in the corners.\n\nBelow an explanatory image:\n\n\nThe dimensions are good (less than half of a mm) but got this bad visible distortion (about 1 mm or less).\n\nThere is a tool or a command in Repetier-host/firmware that corrects this issues?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"Skew distortion in deltas means there is something physically wrong with your printer build, such as the towers not being evenly spaced or being tilted. The first thing you should do is confirm the mechanical build -- measure the distance between towers, angles between towers, parallelism of all three towers, and perpendicularity of all three towers to the bed. If you post photos of your build, we might be able to provide more specific advice. \n\nIf you can't get the mechanical issue sorted, it's possible to calibrate out some specific build errors (like skew due to uneven tower angle), but that's nearly impossible to do \"\"by hand.\"\" You really need to use a Z probe and auto-calibration sequence such as in Rich Cattell's Marlin fork or dc42 RepRapFirmware. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1463,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user27068,3.0576060275493275,5.023905502709239,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,da Vinci Jr. nozzle diagram,\"Has anybody taken apart a da Vinci Jr. 3D printer nozzle?\n\nMy first time trying to clean the nozzle after it jammed, I broke off the filament immediately before it gets heated, inside the nozzle assembly. The XYZprinting video, \"\"da Vinci Jr. 1.0 - Advanced Nozzle Cleaning\"\", shows the filament coming out easily when heated, but now I'm seeing that I should have cut the filament by the feeder and pulled it out after heating. \n\nI have a long length of wire that is similar to the tiny cleaning wire that comes with the kit. Is it safe to heat up the nozzle and push the wire all the way through?\n\nI tried pushing from the other direction with the large cleaning tool (as shown in video). I also tried heating the tip of the filament and pushing it to the jammed filament inside the nozzle and reconnecting it. It held a while as I tried wiggling it when heated but did not break the jam loose and broke off again... \n\nWhat should I do?\n\",markshancock,\"After watching the video, it looks this is a Bowden style extruder. The extruder assembly is encased in the black box the OP mentions. The assembly is user removable. It appears they also include two cleaning tools\n\n\nSmall (0.4mm?) wire to clean the nozzle tip\nLarge (1.7mm?) rod for pushing filament down that is stuck in the cold end\n\n\nIt appears the OP tried accessing the filament in the cold end by removing the fitting at the top of the assembly without opening the assembly. Unfortunately that caused the nut holding the fitting on from the inside fell off. At that point he was in a bit of a mess.\n\nI believe the manufacture's intent is to \"\"ram\"\" any broken pieces in the cold end through the hot extruder by using the provided rod and pushing while the extruder is on. It seems that it should work but would not be easy to do if the filament broke off outside the extruder (which seems to be the case).\n\nAt the point he left it, it would seem that he would either have to do surgery or replace the extruder assembly.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n1465,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sener,3.618048892289167,6.962737393811926,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.265283966335819,How to set a new homing position using software and/or slicer without changing hardware end-stop?,\"Before the question, here is my setup; \n\n\nPrusa i3 (with mainboard Mks Gen v1.2)\nRepetier as slicer\nMarlin source code \n\n\nMy main task is to convert my 3D printer into a chocolate printer.\nI have replaced the filament extruder with a chocolate extruder. And it is there that my issue began. Because, the new extruder is stopping slightly off the y-axis when homing. It is going out of the standard 20x20 cm bed. The other X and Z axes are OK.\n\nSo, I have played with the #defines explained below, but I couldn't even make any single mm difference by homing. They are all ignored when the printer is homing. It goes and rests on the hardware end-stops and stops there eventually.\n\nAll I want 10 mm offset for Y axis.\n\nStarted with this; \n\n// Travel limits after homing\n#define X_MAX_POS 200\n#define X_MIN_POS 0\n#define Y_MAX_POS 190 <<<< (tested with 190 and 210)\n#define Y_MIN_POS 0\n#define Z_MAX_POS 200\n#define Z_MIN_POS 0\n\n\nand this;\n\n// The position of the homing switches\n#define MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS // If defined, MANUAL_*_HOME_POS below will be used\n\n//Manual homing switch locations:\n// For deltabots this means top and center of the cartesian print volume.\n#define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0\n#define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 10 <<< (tested with 10 or -10)\n#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0\n\n\nI have also played with the slicer tool (Repetier) settings where homing related values are mentioned but no joy there as well.\n\nAny input highly appreciated.\n\",Lars Pötter,\"The Y-Max setting does not help, because it is the software end stop for the other end of the axis.\n\nThe Y Home position also doesn't help as it only changes the coordinate that the printer assumes for when it hits the home position. That is used for printers (like deltas) that home to the max end switches.\n\nWhat could help is a little bit of G-Code right after the Homing. The Homing is a G28. Just add a G1Y10 after that. That will move your Y Axis 10 mm right after homing. So it will then be in the position that you want. If you then add a G92 then this position will become the home position for the print. So adding these two lines should fix it. Cura lets you edit these start G-Codes so that it then will automatically add the modified codes to all your prints.\n\nYou can also try a G10 (with a firmware that supports it.\n\nFor Details on G-Codes see: http://reprap.org/wiki/Gcode\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n1465,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sener,3.618048892289167,6.962737393811926,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.265283966335819,How to set a new homing position using software and/or slicer without changing hardware end-stop?,\"Before the question, here is my setup; \n\n\nPrusa i3 (with mainboard Mks Gen v1.2)\nRepetier as slicer\nMarlin source code \n\n\nMy main task is to convert my 3D printer into a chocolate printer.\nI have replaced the filament extruder with a chocolate extruder. And it is there that my issue began. Because, the new extruder is stopping slightly off the y-axis when homing. It is going out of the standard 20x20 cm bed. The other X and Z axes are OK.\n\nSo, I have played with the #defines explained below, but I couldn't even make any single mm difference by homing. They are all ignored when the printer is homing. It goes and rests on the hardware end-stops and stops there eventually.\n\nAll I want 10 mm offset for Y axis.\n\nStarted with this; \n\n// Travel limits after homing\n#define X_MAX_POS 200\n#define X_MIN_POS 0\n#define Y_MAX_POS 190 <<<< (tested with 190 and 210)\n#define Y_MIN_POS 0\n#define Z_MAX_POS 200\n#define Z_MIN_POS 0\n\n\nand this;\n\n// The position of the homing switches\n#define MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS // If defined, MANUAL_*_HOME_POS below will be used\n\n//Manual homing switch locations:\n// For deltabots this means top and center of the cartesian print volume.\n#define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0\n#define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 10 <<< (tested with 10 or -10)\n#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0\n\n\nI have also played with the slicer tool (Repetier) settings where homing related values are mentioned but no joy there as well.\n\nAny input highly appreciated.\n\",kamuro,\"Now I've finally had time to look into this, since I knew it somehow existed, but wasn't sure how it worked:\n\nUse the M206 G-code command in Marlin, Sprinter, Smoothie, or RepRap Firmware to offset the 0,0,0 coordinate of your printbed relative to the endstops.\n\nThe reprap.org wiki page says:\n\n\n The values specified are added to the endstop position when the axes\n are referenced. The same can be achieved with a G92 right after homing\n (G28, G161).\n \n With Marlin firmware, this value can be saved to EEPROM using the M500\n command.\n \n A similar command is G10, aligning these two is subject to discussion.\n \n With Marlin 1.0.0 RC2 a negative value for z lifts(!) your printhead.\n\n\nWe see, this basically is the same suggested by @LarsPoetter, but it comes with the great advantage that it can be saved to EEPROM, hence you don't need to add it every time or into every different sliccer (if I understand it correctly, - I haven't yet tried it myself)\n\nLet us know if this works for a permanent solution.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1466,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,goo gle,1.726248027126092,3.9666937385261156,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,File Input data types,\"I'm a newb and don't know much about 3D printers.\nIn visual basic I can create vector data of 3d objects,that can be loaded into a binary or text file.\nCan files like this be used with a 3d printer?\n\nExample:\n\nThis is a very simplified example of how the code generates 3d vector data.\n\nju jv jw determine the size and dimensions of the object\nru, rv, rw are the vector lenghts\n\n\nThe incrementors used to increase the size of the object to the max ju jv jw vaules:\n\nru=ru+1\nrv=rv+1\nrw=rw+1\n\n\n'the angles can also be incremented to for curves and spirials'\n\nthe angles of the vectors\n\nangle u =0\nangle v =45\nangle w = 90\n\n\nSimplified code:\n\nFor k1 = 0 To Ju\n\n ru=ru+1\n\n xu = (ru * Sin(angle u))\n\n yu = (ru * Cos(angle u))\n\n\nFor k2 = 0 To Jv\n\n rv=rv+1\n\n xv = (rv * Sin(angle v))\n\n yv = (rv * Cos(angle v))\n\n\n\nFor k3 = 0 To Jw\n\n rw=rw+1\n\n xw = (rw * Sin(angle w))\n\n yw = (rw * Cos(angle w))\n\n\nOutput xu, yu, xv, yv, xw, yw ..to file in the order produced on this line\n\nNext k3 : next k2: next k1\n\n\nCan a 3d printer read this output as is and use it to make a 3d object?\n\",John Sensebe,\"Not directly. The most common types of 3D printers build objects in layers. They \"\"draw\"\" a layer, then \"\"draw\"\" another layer slightly above it, repeating until they've \"\"drawn\"\" the entire model. Preparing your model for this is called \"\"slicing\"\", since you are \"\"slicing\"\" your model into these layers. Slicing is a complex process and it's a lot of work to \"\"roll your own\"\" software for it, and there are several good, free applications to do it for you out there already.\n\nWhat you probably can do easily is output your data in STL format to be read by the slicing software. STL (either ASCII or binary) is a dead simple format that contains the triangles that comprise your model. So simple, in fact, that the Wikipedia article tells you just about all you need to know.\n\nTo get triangles from squares:\n\nA--B Here is a \"\"square\"\" with vertices ABCD. A--B A--B A\n| | Splitting it from A to C produces two |\\ | -> \\ | |\\\n| | triangles, ABC and CDA. This can be | \\| -> \\| | \\\nD--C done as part of the output by simply D--C C D--C\n writing two triangles for every\n square in the input.\n\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n1471,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,JPD,2.528907649931287,5.053013868614477,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.2576023278269264,How to reuse modelling bases for the Stratasys uPrint SE Plus?,\"It's criminal how wasteful the Stratsys uPrint SE Plus is with it's 'one use' modelling bases. Is there a reliable way to re purpose them? I have tried ethanol and acetone, but not had any luck. \n\",Duane,\"By oversight in training, the operators of one of our UPrint SE Plus printers was simply placing the tray in the bath with the printed part. After it was in the bath, all support material was removed and they dried and reused the tray. This process was used for months before it was discovered, and they used the same tray for many prints. Has anyone else tried this? \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1471,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,JPD,2.528907649931287,5.053013868614477,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.2576023278269264,How to reuse modelling bases for the Stratasys uPrint SE Plus?,\"It's criminal how wasteful the Stratsys uPrint SE Plus is with it's 'one use' modelling bases. Is there a reliable way to re purpose them? I have tried ethanol and acetone, but not had any luck. \n\",Jim Lynch,\"I've done the bit where you place the tray and part into the bath. Upon completion of dissolving, I then used a little dawn dish-soap to clean the tray, let it dry. I have access and used DI water for the hand washing (without any scrub or pad, just my hands). The trays worked fine. \nSomeone else took over for a bit. I think they were trying to clean with Vinegar, and the trays have all turned white (not sure if that is from this?). So, they aren't being reused.\nI've started being a bit strategic with some print jobs. I'll print in one corner, then use cutters to remove the support without damaging the tray. Then I'll print on that tray in a different corner. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1474,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Zoey Boles,2.1782824847157594,3.298894097750058,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,\"Trying to flash Davinci XYZ 1.0, nothing but black bars\",\"I get nothing but black bars and \"\"Unknown USB Device\"\" from Windows 10. This is after a failed flash that was otherwise going directly according to plan.\n\nThis Davinci has been nothing but frustration for me, and I'm really tired of fruitless Google-Fu.\n\nMuch of what I see pretty much says it's bricked; attempting to jump the jp1 jumper any further does me no good.\n\nIs there anything I can do to actually move forward, or are we in soldering-iron territory now?\n\",tbm0115,\"I had this occur on my MakerBot Replicator Dual after I tried repairing a blown voltage regulator. If you refer to the previous link to my SE question, pay attention to the comments of Ryan's answer where it is explained that (in my case at least) the main processor was damaged and therefore couldn't properly load the firmware. The machine was able to load just enough to initialize the chip on the LCD screen, but since the main boards processor was blown, couldn't load the firmware to send commands to the screen and continue the boot sequence.\n\nI'm not certain that you're encountering the same EXACT issue, but you have all of the same side effects that I did. Basically, if you're not pro with electronics, your board is bricked. Otherwise, you might be able to salvage the board by replacing the processor, but there's no guarantee that something else isn't wrong or that the new processor was installed correctly.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n1477,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FarO,3.618048892289167,4.261303989854891,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,How to optimally make a 3D model of an object using photos?,\"I would like to obtain a 3D model of my insoles. I tried to scan it with 123D catch but finding reference points is difficult because the insole is black.\n\nHow could I improve the scanning? I attach a photo of the insole to show its not easy shape.\n\nI thought about placing a grid of white spots on the surface, but will it be enough?\n\nAlso, is it recommended to keep the camera still and rotate the object (I have a rotating stand) or should I move the camera? in the second case, the accuracy of the photos will be lower, while rotating 5-10 degrees the stand every time is extremely easy.\n\nAs background should I use a checkerboard or something else not repetitive?\n\nI noticed that the insole has basically three different \"\"levels\"\", joined smoothly with each other. These \"\"planes\"\" are sloped the same way, so that if I change the pitch of the insole by about 10 degrees, they will be horizontal. Would it improve the accuracy?\n\nEdit: the insole is perfectly new, newer worn before.\n\n\n\nUpdate\n\nI dotted the insole with white paint (the white eraser paint used in office and school) and I took a series of photos with the insole in top of a tripod, laying on a flat white cardboard support. 55 photos in total at 3 different elevations (side, medium, high). I also did a test with fixed camera and rotating object.\n\nPhotoscan did not work well in general. Keeping the object fixed produces the best results, but poor.\n\n123D Catch did a much better job! again with fixed object and moving camera. Still, treating the resulting mesh was difficult and the accuracy could be improved.\n\nAutodesk Remake 2017 worked VERY well, as you can see in the attached screenshot, and it allows the editing of the mesh to remove useless parts of the model. I haven't tried yet to process the photos with the camera fixed and the rotating object. I did the processing locally (it's slow!) with maximum details and resolution.\n\n\n\",tbm0115,\"Usually, the largest variability in 3D imaging is lighting, closely followed by the color scheme. You'll probably want to heed some of the following points:\n\n\nNo colors in the background/stand, keep to shades (unless otherwise specified for scanner)\nNo gradients. This applies to poor lighting causing a \"\"gradient\"\" light effect\nSet the backdrop beyond the range of the scanner if possible (like with Skanect w/ Microsoft Kinect)\nIdeally set the backdrop and especially the stand in contrast with the color of the object.\n\n\nYou're right, a typical 3D scanner will have a difficult time with darker colors due to physics. However, there are no rules that say you can't change the color of the object.\n\nIn this application, I would suggest just going ahead and spray painting the object and scanning it. Scanning the insole is going to require super tight tolerances in scanning as I'm assuming the insole is naturally worn due to use. \n\nCompletely alternatively from 3D scanning, you could try using a 3D touch probe like on a CMM (Coordinate Measuring Machine). It will take longer, but a touch probe doesn't care what color the object is.\n\nUpdate\n\nThe touch probe comment seems to be a hit, so I'll elaborate. My experience with touch probes comes only from manufacturing technology and can be found and in a variety of different machine tools:\n\n\nMills\nLathes\nCMMs\nVision Systems\n\"\"Romer\"\" Arms (aka portable CMM)\n\n\nYou could probably get away with searching for a local machine shop (or job shop) and asking if they have a machine for reverse engineering. The quickest and easiest machine for reverse engineering (in my experience) is a portable CMM, I recommend Googling it.\n\nAlternatively, I've heard of people adding touch probes to their 3D Printers, but I haven't seen it before. In theory, a basic touch probe can easily be achieved by using a momentary switch. If you're good with programming and maybe a bit of Arduino, you could do the following:\n\n\nAdd momentary (normally off) switch to Arduino \nFind a way of attaching the switch (below nozzles)\nConnect to your 3d printer in your preferred method and preferred programming language. I've used the provided libraries in Python that come with installing MakerWare in order to connect to my MakerBot.\nWrite your routine to sequentially move the new probe in a grid pattern and then incrementally move the Z up until you get a signal from your Arduino that the momentary has been switched on.\nFor each trigger, append a simple text file with a new line containing the coordinates.\nonce complete, you should have a \"\"point cloud\"\" of your insole which, if formatted correctly, will be able to import into CAD software\n\n\nThere are a few file types off the top of my head that can be used including:\n\n\n.pts\n.XYZ\n.CSV\n\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n1477,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FarO,3.618048892289167,4.261303989854891,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,How to optimally make a 3D model of an object using photos?,\"I would like to obtain a 3D model of my insoles. I tried to scan it with 123D catch but finding reference points is difficult because the insole is black.\n\nHow could I improve the scanning? I attach a photo of the insole to show its not easy shape.\n\nI thought about placing a grid of white spots on the surface, but will it be enough?\n\nAlso, is it recommended to keep the camera still and rotate the object (I have a rotating stand) or should I move the camera? in the second case, the accuracy of the photos will be lower, while rotating 5-10 degrees the stand every time is extremely easy.\n\nAs background should I use a checkerboard or something else not repetitive?\n\nI noticed that the insole has basically three different \"\"levels\"\", joined smoothly with each other. These \"\"planes\"\" are sloped the same way, so that if I change the pitch of the insole by about 10 degrees, they will be horizontal. Would it improve the accuracy?\n\nEdit: the insole is perfectly new, newer worn before.\n\n\n\nUpdate\n\nI dotted the insole with white paint (the white eraser paint used in office and school) and I took a series of photos with the insole in top of a tripod, laying on a flat white cardboard support. 55 photos in total at 3 different elevations (side, medium, high). I also did a test with fixed camera and rotating object.\n\nPhotoscan did not work well in general. Keeping the object fixed produces the best results, but poor.\n\n123D Catch did a much better job! again with fixed object and moving camera. Still, treating the resulting mesh was difficult and the accuracy could be improved.\n\nAutodesk Remake 2017 worked VERY well, as you can see in the attached screenshot, and it allows the editing of the mesh to remove useless parts of the model. I haven't tried yet to process the photos with the camera fixed and the rotating object. I did the processing locally (it's slow!) with maximum details and resolution.\n\n\n\",JKEngineer,\"I don't have enough reputation to comment. \n\nThis is a short pointer to another webpage: https://www.sculpteo.com/blog/2016/01/20/turning-a-picture-into-a-3d-model/\nIt may be helpful. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2970,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FarO,2.528907649931287,4.194586413178668,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,How to add tolerances/gaps in 123d Design?,\"When I design parts that must fit in each other, I usually keep in mind that prints are 0.2-0.5 mm wider than expected (depending on material) and I size the parts accordingly.\n\nHowever, sometimes I design the whole part and then I slice it with planes or lines. In these cases I need to push/pull afterwards each contact surface manually by the same amount (0.2-0.5 mm) and that is a time consuming task. Another option is to use a cutter to remove the outer surface layer (basically I remove the rigged surface, making it smooth again) but it's not safe and even more time consuming.\n\nHow can I quickly generate said controlled gaps on the contact surfaces between two objects, but not on the rest of the object? to make it everywhere I could use shells, I guess, but I don't need that on the whole object.\n\",Alucard Pawpad,\"Unfortunately, 123D Design doesn't have such a feature.\n\nYou could select multiple surfaces and push/pull them all at the same time though.\n\nRemember, your 3D Printer's slicer should have an option to undersize or oversize holes and walls, to help reduce/remove the effect you talk about. \nIt's called size correction, I think? Simplify3D Has it, atleast. \nYou might have to tweak this for every filament type, though.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5850,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FarO,3.0576060275493275,3.612224941552368,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.488653845767225,Can I have a glass bed with only the center heated?,\"I have a 15x15 cm heating resistor from my current printer (printing area: 12x12 cm).\n\nI would like to switch to a glass bed and to rework my printer to increase the printing area to 20 cm (22x22 cm glass plate).\n\nWould it be possible to use the old heating resistor placed only in the centre? this way I would have a smaller heated bed for ABS and a bigger one for PLA.\n\nWould the glass crack due to non uniform heating? This is because glass has a conductivity of less than 5 W/mK, therefore the hot area will stay hot and basically never really spread the heat to the surrounding area. So the frame will be cold and the center hot, causing stresses.\n\nRelated: https://engineering.stackexchange.com/questions/31842/how-much-an-unevenly-heated-glass-plate-bows\n\",profesor79,\"The glass will be taking up the heat to slowly cover its full area.\nThat means two things:\n\n\nit will not crack as there is no thermal shock\nit will put more pressure on the heater as there will be bigger heat absorption, so in an edge case, you could end-up with not getting a required temperature on the glass surface and/or the heating process will be very slow.\n\n\nIn that case, I personally will try that out and then if I have an issue with getting proper temperature, then I will buy a new heater.\n\n\n\nA comment regarding heat expansion:\n\nmy glass is about 20mm longer than the bed and it is warm during the printing process. The 'breaking' stress is connected with temperature shock (an immediate temp change), not a relatively slow heating process. However, borosilicate glass also known as Pyrex (TM) expands very little. Much less than most metals. This is why it doesn't break when exposed to sudden hot and cold changes. So in short words - check tea lighter under your tea-pot and see how te heat is comming out from the centre\n\nsource\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n5850,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FarO,3.0576060275493275,3.612224941552368,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.488653845767225,Can I have a glass bed with only the center heated?,\"I have a 15x15 cm heating resistor from my current printer (printing area: 12x12 cm).\n\nI would like to switch to a glass bed and to rework my printer to increase the printing area to 20 cm (22x22 cm glass plate).\n\nWould it be possible to use the old heating resistor placed only in the centre? this way I would have a smaller heated bed for ABS and a bigger one for PLA.\n\nWould the glass crack due to non uniform heating? This is because glass has a conductivity of less than 5 W/mK, therefore the hot area will stay hot and basically never really spread the heat to the surrounding area. So the frame will be cold and the center hot, causing stresses.\n\nRelated: https://engineering.stackexchange.com/questions/31842/how-much-an-unevenly-heated-glass-plate-bows\n\",Jose Maytorena,\"I purchased some very, very cheap thin glass from walmart (or home depot, cant remember for sure). Probably the thinnest kind available. Went through dozens of prints heating it up to 85C only at the center and never experienced issues with cracking. Personally I believe you’ll be fine. I can look for specifics if you need them.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n11070,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FarO,1.726248027126092,2.8568583264187786,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,What are the downsides of high stepper current OR power?,\"Microstepping reduces the actual torque at partial steps, so I would like to increase the stepper torque as much as possible to ensure better behaviour when high acceleration is needed (I'm installing a heavier print bed).\n\nI know which drivers and which motors I have so I know the rated values and how to avoid exceeding them.\n\nBesides the additional heating, what are the downsides of using higher current OR current, provided (as said) that the ratings are not exceeded?\n\nFor example: noise? vibrations? anything else?\n\",cmm,\"There is a downside.\n\nIf the current is too high, you lose the linearity of micro-stepping. If the highest current exceeds the maximum, then the highest current micro-stepping positions will collapse on each other.\n\nIf you are within the specs of the motors, there are no motor-related problems caused by higher currents.\n\nBut other problems can be caused by increasing the current. The current must be within the capacity of the motor drivers and their heat sink. If the drivers overheat, many will simply shut off, causing the motors to not move when they should, which will appear as misalignment on X, Y, or Y.\n\nAnother problem could be higher vibration, which would show as stronger ringing when going around corners. The higher current will give higher torque and higher acceleration, which will cause more vibration.\n\nIf you are increasing the current to support a bigger and heavier print bed, you will possibly have other troubles. Although the higher torque will be countered by the higher bed mass, the higher bed mass may be coupled with longer belts, which will be more stretchy. You may also be imposing forces over longer frame components, which may cause them to flex more. \n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n11074,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FarO,1.0891412423578797,2.4524811080749744,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Why and how am I supposed to change the extrusion multiplier?,\"The slicing software knows exactly (given accurate E-step, filament diameter, nozzle diameter values) how much cold plastic is pushed in the extruder and how much mass is extruded.\n\nWhy should the extrusion multiplier be changed from 100%? Shouldn't the slicer extrude already enough to fill the gaps left by the neighbouring perimeter (see rectangular vs recto-oval extrusion profile).\n\nAs result of the \"\"why\"\" question, implicitly comes up the question \"\"how\"\" should I (scientifically, not try and fail) define the extrusion multiplier? it would appear that said value should not be touched if the rest is done properly.\n\nThe only idea I can have is to print at 100% infill and then saw the part, to check how big are the voids between 4 neighbouring extrusions. Measuring the wall thickness seems very prone to errors (but again, is such calibration really needed?)\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"In an ideal world, you will not need to change this parameter once it is properly calibrated.\n\nIn a non-ideal world, some filament may be out-of-spec, and some filament may slip when it passes through the extruder. So for a flex (or more flexible) filament, you might increase the extrusion multiplier a little to compensate. If the compensation is material specific, it should be consistent (and might even be advised by the filament manufacturer).\n\nYou might want to increase/reduce the multiplier whilst printing the first layer (in lieu of fixing your bed leveling properly).\n\nMaybe you want to fine-tune the top surface (which will be 100% fill) and you prefer to slightly under-fill this (because over-fill results in more noticeable surface defects).\n\nIt is for quick hacks or fine tuning, there is probably no scientific approach to setting any value other than 100%.\n\nWhen it comes to material specific variations (due to melt viscosity, thermal expansion or drive efficiency), there are many factors which affect the tuning. Machine geometry, temperatures, colourants (and other additives in the filament), as well as the base material.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n11105,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FarO,2.528907649931287,3.1516766269614735,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Which filament to use for an application involving water circulation?,\"Let's suppose I want to build a water block shaped exactly for my Ubis 13s hot end \n\n\n\n(similar to this instructable), or that I want to circulate water around specific objects to be cooled (like Water-cooling stepper motor with aluminum block).\n\nCNC allows the use of shaped radiators/water blocks, but it is too expensive for home projects and requires the ability to make a part at the first or second attempt, to keep costs low.\n\n3D printing allows me to design jackets which are perfectly matched to the intended part, including gaps for O-rings or matching valleys+ridges between the components which also would result in a mostly waterproof seal (just add grease or hot glue...). In this case, water would be in contact with the object to cool and also provide (where suitable) a better interface. Corrosion can be avoided with some additives (in case of aluminium, water should be acidic).\n\nWhich common printing material is best for this application? Let's limit the question to materials that can be reliably printed at maximum 270 °C (nylon ok, but no polycarbonate or PEEK, for example).\n\nWe are talking about very low pressure pumps, mechanical strength is of little relevance.\n\",Serge Rabyking,\"I saw a lot of selling PETG water cooling pipes.\nSo PETG will be the best choice considering all factors.\n\nIn addition:\nYou could use any plastic with the oil instead of water for cooling medium.\nAlso automotive anti-freeze (G11, G12, G13 ...) designed to be non corrosive and much better than water in terms of cooling.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n11118,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FarO,1.726248027126092,2.887737754437414,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,How to use a BLTouch or equivalent touch probe to 3D scan objects with a 3D printer?,\"I thought about using a BLTouch probe to do 3D scans of objects. \n\nThe objects to be suitable require smooth gradients and enough space for the probe, without anything hitting the print head/hot end.\n\nWhat tools do I need to control the printer and obtain such data? are there GCodes scripts for that?\n\nI would need to define a grid size, spacing, retraction, maximum expected height increase between adjacent points.\n\",cmm,\"I don't know the probe, but I have used a delta 3D printing machine (of my design) to scan a surface. It takes some time.\n\nYour resolution will be limited by the probe geometry of the touch probe tip. You want a Z-probe function that reports the Z-value of the point, not that simply sets Z= when the probe \"\"hits\"\". The RepRap firmware has this in the G30 command.\n\nYou will need to write a loop that probes all points of interest. This is best done by writing a program (or script) that generates the G-code. I have a PERL script that generates the calibration mesh for my Delta machine, and I can share that with you.\n\nI edit the script for the area to be scanned. This includes (in my case) the radius and the resolution. I then run the script to produce G-code to do the probing.\n\nI send the G-code to the printer with Repetier-Host. Repetier-Host builds a log file of every character returned by the printer. The G30 command returns in the log the Z value wher ethe probe hit.\n\nAfter the G-code is fully executed, I run a PERL script on the log file to extract the Z height of each of the probed points.\n\nWhat you do with that data is up to you.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n11147,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FarO,1.726248027126092,2.7669748712461706,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,How to extract 3D information from a 3D model for calibration?,\"I made two \"\"OBJ\"\" 3D models of myself using Sense 2 scanner and using photogrammetry with Meshroom.\n\nI would like to extract some information about myself to be able to scale the model properly and to be able to compare the accuracy. For example, distance between shoulders or circumference of the neck/chest. Another option would be to hold a reference parallelepiped and then scale the model based on the known distance between faces.\n\nHow can I do that? I can calculate the distance between points I can click using Meshmixer, but circumference or the distance between parallel faces is more difficult. The tools Meshmixer offers for the purpose don't seem to work well.\n\nWhat are my options?\n\",FarO,\"Extracting various measurements from 3D models is easily done using the following free online tool:\n\nhttps://0x00019913.github.io/meshy/\n\nI scanned a person using the Sense 2 scanner and I compared the values from meshy for the hip and waist with those measured in real life one day after the scan: the difference was about 1 cm, which can easily be explained by the uncertainties in the choice of the measurement point and moment of the day.\n\nThis shows that both the 3D scanner and meshy are quite accurate. The tool is also very easy to use.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n11265,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FarO,2.1782824847157594,2.634955868424173,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,How can I upgrade the drivers in the Printrboard rev. D?,\"I have a Printrboard rev. D which includes Allegro A4982 drivers. I would like to replace them, but it appears that newer TMC drivers all require several pins for proper operation.\n\n\n\nHow can I upgrade the drivers in the Printrboard rev. D?\n\",FarO,\"The developers from the Klipper firmware confirmed that Klipper doesn't care about the native functions of each pin, therefore it is indeed possible to use the expansion pins for controlling (including UART) TMC stepper drivers.\n\nAt this point I cannot confirm, but maybe Marlin allows the same by updating the pin assignments in the source code.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n11265,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FarO,2.1782824847157594,2.634955868424173,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,How can I upgrade the drivers in the Printrboard rev. D?,\"I have a Printrboard rev. D which includes Allegro A4982 drivers. I would like to replace them, but it appears that newer TMC drivers all require several pins for proper operation.\n\n\n\nHow can I upgrade the drivers in the Printrboard rev. D?\n\",towe,\"You can't. In fact, pretty much all boards with directly soldered drivers are not upgradable.\n\nI'd recommend to buy a proper, contemporary, customizable board like the SKR 1.3 for TMCs.\nThe Fysetc F6 would also work, but uses \"\"custom\"\" connectors and is still AVR based.\n\",0.0,0.0\n11407,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FarO,3.0576060275493275,2.9075761835826794,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,How to theoretically calculate the maximum acceleration?,\"I would like to calculate the maximum safe acceleration for my printer using the following parameters as input:\n\n\nprinthead weight\ntorque at the desired speed\nsteps/mm and steps/revolution\nmicrosteps\n\n\nElasticity of frame and belts are ignored.\n\nThe Excel file to obtain the torque at the desired speed is available here.\n\nThe other parameters are known in advance.\n\nThe formula I used for the maximum acceleration is the usual $a=F/m$, where $F=torque*radius$:\n\n$acceleration = torque\\ *\\ (steps/rev\\ /\\ steps/mm\\ *\\ microsteps\\ /\\ pi\\ /\\ 2) / mass$\n\nUsing 450 g, 0.15 N/m (as predicted for my stepper at 200 mm/s with 24 V), 200 steps/rev, 80 steps/mm, 16 microsteps I obtain about 2100 mm/s2 which seems reasonable and pretty close to standard values.\n\nHowever, from what I understood the Excel file provides the prediction of a full-step torque, but torque is known to decrease significantly with increasing microsteps.\n\nHow to introduce the effect of reduced (incremental) torque for microsteps to calculate a safe maximum acceleration value for a printer?\n\nFor information: my stepper and my printer were sold back then with about that acceleration value preset and with that torque at nominal speed (half voltage, half speed than I assumed here).\n\nThe print quality was fine, which seems counterintuitive considering the much reduced torque expected at 16X microsteps, about 1/10 of the value I used.\n\nI would expect many lost microsteps with the predefined settings. Or maybe it happens: if all the microsteps are lost, the positioning error would be 16 (micro)steps / 80 steps/mm = 0.2 mm.\n\n\n\nImportant edit!!!\n\nAs maybe someone noticed, the formula I used\n\n$F=torque*radius$\n\nis wrong. The correct one is\n\n$F=torque/radius$\n\nTaking this change into account, the final formula is:\n\n$acceleration = torque\\ /\\ (steps/rev\\ /\\ steps/mm\\ *\\ microsteps\\ /\\ pi\\ /\\ 2) / mass$\n\nwhich results, with the given input values, in 52 mm/s2.\n\nThis is much less than what is normally set in printers. I doubt that belt stretching and frame flexibility can affect the setting so much, therefore in addition to the microstep aspect, this one should be answered too, since the question is about \"\"theoretically calculate the maximum acceleration\"\".\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"You do not appear to have a correct understanding of how microstepping affects torque.\n\nWhat is calculated in the article you refer to is incremental torque. The word \"\"incremental\"\" is very important.\n\nA stepper motor consists of a permanent magnet rotor and an electromagnet stator. The electromagnets generate a magnetic field, to which the stator wants to align itself. Imagine the stepper motor being at rest. As we apply a torque to it, the rotor will start to deflect from its resting state in which it is aligned with the magnetic field. As you apply more torque, the stator will deflect more.\n\nEventually, if we keep increasing the torque, the motor will no longer be able to hold its position and snap over to the next step. The torque at which this is happens is the holding torque. Essentially, you can think of the holding torque as the torque required to cause a full step deflection of the rotor's position (compared to where it would be aligned with the magnetic field). The deflection in response to a given torque load is called the static load angle.\n\nThe article calculates incremental torque for microstepping. The incremental microstepping torque is the torque required to cause a microstep deflection. So, if we are using half stepping, the incremental torque is the torque required to cause a half step deflection. Naturally the torque required to cause a half step deflection is (much) lower than the torque required to cause a full step deflection.\n\nThis is actually irrespective of what level of microstepping the motor is configured for. Causing a half step deflection requires the same amount of torque, regardless of whether the motor is using full or half stepping. All lower incremental torque means is that we're specifying the torque for a smaller deflection. It does not mean torque is reduced overall.\n\n\n I would expect many lost microsteps with the predefined settings.\n\n\nYou cannot \"\"lose\"\" a microstep. The rotor of a stepper motor has physical increments, and losing a step is when it snaps to the next increment. The only thing you can lose is a full step.\n\nThe stator of a stepper motor creates a rotating magnetic field. The rotor tries to follow this magnetic field, but (if under load) always lags behind it a little because the coupling between the two magnets behaves like a spring. In full-step mode, the rotating magnetic field moves in discrete steps. All enabling microstepping does is make the field rotate more \"\"smoothly\"\". However, it doesn't change the magnitude of the field.\n\nIf you were to look at the graph of the acceleration of the rotor on a very small time scale, you would get a sawtooth wave. Each time the motor made a full step (i.e., the magnetic field jumps), the acceleration would be high (as the misalignment between the fields would be large) and then gradually drop as the rotor aligned itself again with the magnetic field.\n\nIf you would use 16x microstepping, you would again see a sawtooth wave, but with a 16x higher frequency and with a lower peak-to-peak amplitude. However, the average value would be the same as for full step mode. The reduction in peak-to-peak amplitude corresponds to the reduction in incremental torque (and, for smooth acceleration, this reduction is actually good).\n\nThe main reason to be interested in incremental torque is to determine the positioning error. If you imagine the printhead being at rest, a single microstep may not cause any motion because the incremental torque is too low to overcome static friction. So, using 16x microstepping will not allow 16x as precise positioning. However, maximum acceleration is not affected.\n\nThe second part of your question, where you get the unrealistically low value of 52mm/s2, is based on a simple calculation error. The correct value is 52m/s2 or 52000mm/s2.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n1493,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Daniel,2.8153892694839717,3.9540974709718553,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Printrbot simple metal not auto leveling,\"I have a printrbot simple metal with the heated bed upgrade. Its been working fine until Cura updated, now, after the x,y, and z axis zeros, the print starts without moving to the other corners and auto leveling the bed. Does the new version of cura require me to turn the function on or should i try to re flash the printers firmware? Thoughts? Thanks. \n\nUPDATE\n\nusing an older version of Cura, the printer auto levels and works as expected. Is there any clue why the new update of cura stops this function?\n\",user802599,\"See if you can check what the starting G-Code is. I havn't used Cura but what I think has changed for you is that your new software is homing just using the G28 command and not the G29 command.\n\nI think if you can look into your slicer settings you will find an option to change what the starting gcode is and you will probably want to change it to something like this\n\nG28 X0 Y0\nG28 Z0\nG29\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5204,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Daniel,1.726248027126092,4.692410944170157,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Turn off heated bed in Repetier?,\"I have a printrbot simple metal with the heated bed upgrade. I think theirs a problem with my board, so long story short, I'm just trying to print without actually heating up the bed. The problem I am faced with is when I try to print from Repetier, it's still trying to connect the heated bed. I can't find any settings for shutting this off anywhere. How can I bypass this so I can still print? Thanks!\n\",mac,\"A workaround would be to post-process your gcode files manually removing all M140 and M190 instructions (the one setting heated bed temperatures).\n\nYou can do that manually by opening your GCODE file in a text editor and searching for M140 and M190, but I recently had the same problem with Slic3r (Prusa edition) and I wrote a one-liner that does that automatically for me.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n1520,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jason Clark,2.1782824847157594,5.315163962279346,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Adjusting Bed Temp values on Monoprice/Wanhao I3 (Repetier Firmware),\"I have a Monoprice Maker Select, which is a rebranded Wanhao Duplicator I3 V2 (Prusa clone). I've found that the heated bed temperature values on the LCD are incorrect. The heater works, and the controller maintains the bed temp just fine, but the temperature reported isn't the true temperature. When using the PLA preset, with the bed set for 60°C, once the temperature stabilizes at 60°C on the display, I can measure it with a laser thermometer and get a consistent 54°C across the buildplate. With the ABS preset of 90°C, I read 80°C. And with the bed set for the maximum value of 120°C, I'm only reading 102-104°C. \n\nI've checked these values with the bare aluminum build plate, and I've allowed the temps to stabilize for at least 10 minutes to ensure that I have consistent readings. I believe the the firmware is using the wrong temperature curve for the thermistor in my device. \n\nI had hoped that there was a simple scaling constant that I could adjust, but that doesn't seem to be the case. I've researched enough to learn that my device is running Repetier 0.91 firmware, and this page on temperature control on the Repetier wiki says that each type of thermistor needs a custom voltage->temp lookup table, and talks about building a custom table in \"\"configuration.h\"\". I've tried to follow this line of research but I feel like I'm going around in circles. It sounds like I could build a custom version of the firmware to install on my printer, and in doing so I could potentially specify a better conversion table. This gives me pause for several reasons:\n\n\nI haven't found any online reference to other people installing a custom Repetier build on a Wanhao I3.\nI have no idea what values to use for the temp conversion table.\nI can't even find anyone else reporting my issue.\nI'm fairly new to this; I rather not brick my printer, and I haven't found any good guides to installing firmware on the device either.\nI'm not convinced this is the right option. Should I be looking at replacing the thermistor instead? And if so, what's the correct part?\n\n\nI've also looked into the Melzi board inside the printer hoping for a variable resistor to tweak the thermistor voltage divider, but no such luck, at least in the schematics.\n\nI could just live with it; I've been using a 67°C setting to achieve a true 60°C bed temp for PLA, but I'm starting to work with ABS and I'd like the option to get above 100°C bed temp. Am I on the right track? Suggestions? I'm still pretty new to the device and 3D printing in general, so I may have overlooked something obvious.\n\nUpdate: additional question in light of Tom's answer: what is the expected max actual bed temp achievable on a Wanhao/Monoprice I3? I'm measuring 100°C with an LCD reading of 120°C, but I'd like to get to 110°C if possible.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"It is completely normal for the surface of the bed to be cooler than the indicated temperature. The thermistor goes on the underside of the bed, near the heating traces. The top of the bed (which is further away from the heating traces) will naturally be cooler.\n\nIt would be possible, though a lot of work, to build a custom thermistor table that more accurately reflects the surface of the bed, though that means your thermistor table will no longer reflect the characteristics of your thermistor, but instead reflect the particular circumstances under which you build your custom table (which would be affected by ambient temperature, any drafts, ...).\n\nThe accuracy of an infrared laser thermometer depends on the characteristics of the surface you're measuring for, so unless you adjusted the thermometer specifically to measure the aluminium surface of the bed, it's possible your thermometer is off as well.\n\nThe exact temperature of your bed doesn't matter anyways (you just need it approximately in the right ballpark) so I would suggest to just live with it. The 60C/90C figures are not supposed to be for the surface of the bed. They're meant to reflect the temperature reported by the printer. That said, 90C is a bit low for printing ABS (but the bed/power supply on your printer might not be powerful enough to get any higher).\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n3482,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jason Clark,1.0891412423578797,4.072488158082937,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Slicer reports 1000s of errors not seen in Cura; Render is missing big chunks,\"Brand new to Slic3r, I've been using Cura for a while, so not sure is happening. I tried to load this Knight model into Slic3er (v1.2.9 running on OS X), and it's reporting \"\"Manifold: auto-repaired (11430 errors)\"\", and the model looks incomplete. Hovering the model with the mouse shows more details:\n\n\n\nPreview mode shows supports holding up the head, so I don't think it's just a screen rendering issue. But I loaded this same model into Cura earlier today, and it worked just fine; I've printed the resulting GCode. So I believe the model is fine. I wanted to print using Slic3r and compare the results. \n\nIs this a known issue with certain types of models? Not sure what to try next.\n\",StarWind0,\"Cura and Slic3r are very different programs. You will not get the exact same print between the two. I find that of late slic3r will try to fill holes when older versions do not. So even versions will not behave the same. I will say I have less issues with simplify 3d, but the price is very high.\n\nFollowing. When this happens I attempt to repair the model. There is obviously some unresolved issues in the model. I use Netfabb which has been exported to this online tool.\n\nReally though. I would ask for my money back ;-) \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3482,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jason Clark,1.0891412423578797,4.072488158082937,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Slicer reports 1000s of errors not seen in Cura; Render is missing big chunks,\"Brand new to Slic3r, I've been using Cura for a while, so not sure is happening. I tried to load this Knight model into Slic3er (v1.2.9 running on OS X), and it's reporting \"\"Manifold: auto-repaired (11430 errors)\"\", and the model looks incomplete. Hovering the model with the mouse shows more details:\n\n\n\nPreview mode shows supports holding up the head, so I don't think it's just a screen rendering issue. But I loaded this same model into Cura earlier today, and it worked just fine; I've printed the resulting GCode. So I believe the model is fine. I wanted to print using Slic3r and compare the results. \n\nIs this a known issue with certain types of models? Not sure what to try next.\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"The problem with the model is that of the basic elements that make up the model (fundamentally these are triangles), you'll find some that either cross over, or some that don't touch. This is called non manifold geometry.\n\nThe way this comes about is often by the designer dragging part of a model (to re-size it) in a way that one face of the model crosses into or out of another face. It is very common, and some of the slicers handle it better than others. Sometimes a tool can make a good job of repairing the model, sometimes it has to be fixed manually.\n\nIn fixing the model, a tool will be able to ignore small gaps and overlaps (which is fine, they are often below the print resolution anyway). Different tools will be more or less successful, it looks like your model here is a bit borderline for automated fixing.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1526,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,typhonic,3.452496054252184,3.993215425283658,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Sanguinololu 1.3a fan connection,\"Can anyone tell me where to connect a cooling fan on the Sanguinololu v1.3a board? A few of the information pages mention three PWM outputs: Extruder, bed heater and fan, but none of the wiring diagrams that I can find, actually show the connections for the fan.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"It appears that there isn't an \"\"out-of-the-box\"\" solution to your request, but luck is with you. Someone with your board and objective has posted what appears to be a reasonable modification:\n\nhttp://www.instructables.com/id/Add-a-Cooling-Fan-to-your-Rep-Rap-Sanguinololu/\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n1528,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dsalaj,3.0576060275493275,5.4319192340821285,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,How to calculate the approximate volume of material used in 3d print?,\"Is there a reasonable way of approximating the volume of material used for 3D print by knowing only the STL file volume and infill percentage?\n\nOr what is the formula for calculating the exact volume and which parameters can be fixed to reasonable values?\n\nCan this be done easily using Slic3r or CuraEngine in command line?\n\nNote:\nSupposedly 3Dhubs use Cura[*] software to calculate the print volume.\n\nAny help is appreciated.\n\n[*] www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/calculate-print-volume\n\",dsalaj,\"Possible way to calculate the volume of material used is to multiply the filament length (calculated by CURA after slicing and displayed in lower right corner) and surface of filament tip.\n\nVolume = Filament_length * ( Filament_diameter / 2 )^2 * PI\n\nOf course do not forget to convert all values to the same order of magnitude (e.g. cm³).\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n1535,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,RossGK,3.452496054252184,4.569648249941578,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Monoprice Select Mini - Detached Filament Feeder fitting,\"The $200 Monoprice Select is inexpensive but also cheap, so experiences I've seen appear to involve lots of repairs. In spite of that, I've bought one, as I'm able to fix things (sometimes) and the first few prints have been pretty good quality. ( I hear this unit is also sold as a Wanhao I3 )\n\nFirst repair was that the control knob only worked in one direction (fix: bad encoder-PCB connector cable. Repaired)\n\nUpon trying to change filament, the feeder fitting that enters the hot-end heatsink has come off. This fitting has a thread, but strangely the heatsink does not seem to. As I tried to unscrew it, to check for a feed blockage, it just let go, and I see no part that could have held it in place. (See pic)\n\nI'm guessing that it was just epoxy-glued to the heatsink. Sounds kludgy but possible. Does anyone know? \n\nCan any other owner verify how theirs is attached? \n\n[ Also, posted as a caution for someone else who tries to do this. :( ]\n\nThanks in advance. \n\n\",RossGK,\"Solution - there is a set-screw and a square nut in that T-slot which holds the feeder fitting in place on the heat sink. \n\nOne may well think (as I did) that the fitting is threaded into the heatsink, since it does have a big hex-head for a wrench. A small turn an the set screw lets go, the nut sliding down the slot with it. Thus when you inspect it, you don't realize they are involved 'cuz they aren't around.\n\nSimply slide back up and you're in business.\n\nMystery solved - thx to Mark on Twitter. :)\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n3767,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,RossGK,2.8153892694839717,3.694383166701214,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Brief very slow moves near top layers,\"I've been trying to change to the latest Cura (v2.4) from the older v15.04 (I'm sure there's a good story about why they reset the numbers).\n\nThere's an annoying behaviour in my prints now, and I can't track down what is happening. Everything goes fine, but during the print (maybe mostly near later layers) there are these moments when the print head doesn't move with the normal 30-50 mm/second, but perhaps 1-2 mm/second. \n\nWatching the filament closely, it appears to retract filament at that moment, then the head moves painfully slowly around the part. Then 10 seconds later it goes flying around again. \n\nCan't see a \"\"print speed during retraction\"\" setting. I see a speed at which the filament is retracted setting - I'm guessing that's unrelated. \n\nI'm worried these frequent slow move sections are having two effects:\n\n\nThe hot print nozzle sitting on the part is deforming the surface features;\nThe hot print head is overheating the filament feeding into the nozzle and I get jams or sometimes swollen filament that won't go back into the nozzle as it tries to proceed further, causing a jam.\n\n\nAny idea what makes these super slow movements? The older Cura never caused any of them. \n\nI'm using a Monoprice Select mini printer, with six months of good results before this showed up, and only with G-codes created with new Cura 2.4.\n\",tjb1,\"Are the layers where this is happening smaller than previous layers? Many slicers have a minimum layer time setting where if the layer takes less than X time, it will either slow the layer down or possibly pause until the time is reached. \n\nThis can be useful to allow the previous layer to cool down and harden up a bit before more hot plastic is added. If you're not having issues cooling the print then you could disable this. I've only ever used Slic3r, KISSlicer, and Simplify3D so I'm not sure where the setting would be in Cura but those slicers all had/have the option.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n1541,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jeanie,2.528907649931287,4.508373539339313,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Needing a simple fix for loading TPU,\"My question is...\nIs there a SIMPLE/easy way to load TPU without tearing my printer apart to insert a hose that probably wont work anyways. It keeps curling up by the cog. I have read a few topics in other places but I didn't like the answers. Hoping you all might have a simple fix. \n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"Loading TPU/TPE can be particularly challenging because many printer loading scripts run too fast for the soft flexible filament to effectively purge whatever normal filament you were using before. A couple tips:\n\n\nLoad with a slightly higher temp than either the TPU or previous filament require, so as to minimize the melt viscosity and reduce the force required.\nMake a custom gcode file that contains a slower loading routine: wait for heat, then advance the extruder at a very slow rate for a long distance. Then you just \"\"print\"\" this gcode file whenever you need to load TPU.\n\n\nHowever, simply being able to load is not necessarily enough. Not all extruders can reliably print flexible filaments, period. The larger the gap between the pinch wheel and inlet to the hot end, the more likely the filament is to buckle and come out the side. You need to make sure this gap is as short as possible. If there is more than a couple mm of gap, you'll need to make gap-filler or print yourself a new extruder designed for flexibles.\n\nPrinting slow and without major velocity changes can help, too. Use relatively low layer heights and low, constant feedrates so the extruder doesn't have to run fast or change pressure often. \n\nHarder flexible filaments will be easier to print if your setup is borderline. Ninjaflex is one of the hardest to print because it is relatively soft. Semi-flex type filaments are much easier to print if your hardware isn't set up optimally.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1541,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jeanie,2.528907649931287,4.508373539339313,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Needing a simple fix for loading TPU,\"My question is...\nIs there a SIMPLE/easy way to load TPU without tearing my printer apart to insert a hose that probably wont work anyways. It keeps curling up by the cog. I have read a few topics in other places but I didn't like the answers. Hoping you all might have a simple fix. \n\",Sean Houlihane,\"I've noticed that the first layer seems more prone to wrapping flexible filament around the drive, particularly if the nozzle is a bit on the low side. The extra extrusion force required to push the filament against the resistance of the bed means that the filament can't sustain enough pressure without folding. \n\nAs a quick workaround for this, I lowered the extrusion multiplier to 60% on the fly for the first layer (as well as keeping the speed right down).\n\",0.0,0.0\n1544,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Rishi Kavikondala,2.528907649931287,4.479492550032667,0.0,5.646830619998737,3.548335113978322,1.7550683581421125,Printing an iPhone Case,\"I am trying to 3D print an iPhone case, however, I want it to print standing up. Is this possible to do?\n\nI have a picture of the case in the link below.\n\",Trish,\"Support structure & Orientation\n\nCarefully considering this model, It would be wise to print this on the back-plane with support and then post-process the print to prevent the walls separating from the back when dropped. By activating support, the proposed orientation is however quite possible. To reduce the chance to destroy the print, one has to choose the right support material and geometry. In this case, a soluble support (PVA) would be best, but choosing a proper support structure like tree support originating from an area in front of the case reaching in, for example, generated with Meshmixer is also a very good solution. The orientation that is shown by OP actually has a very nice ability to hold onto the phone from the C-shaped cross-section. However, again this does demand some post-processing to strengthen the inter-layer bonding, preventing the case to split into an \"\"upper\"\" and \"\"lower\"\" section when dropped.\n\nPost processing\n\nPost-processing could take the shape of baking the part in the oven for about an hour to strengthen the inter-layer bonding. For PLA 90 to 100 °C in the oven is common, while ABS is a little higher.\n\nABS would allow a quick acetone vapor smoothing, which melts the outer layer lines together smoothly and as a result increases the shell stability a little - you have to let it outside to let the soaked in vapor fully evaporate afterward though and you might lose smaller details.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1544,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Rishi Kavikondala,2.528907649931287,4.479492550032667,0.0,5.646830619998737,3.548335113978322,1.7550683581421125,Printing an iPhone Case,\"I am trying to 3D print an iPhone case, however, I want it to print standing up. Is this possible to do?\n\nI have a picture of the case in the link below.\n\",towe,\"Consider printing in other planes - this model would be very suited to be printed at around a 45° angle. \n\nYou will need support beneath it, but all visible surfaces should exhibit good quality as well as being more robust than when printed upright due to layer adhesion as pointed out by other answers.\n\",0.0,0.0\n1546,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,JG7,3.267423727073639,5.733670774297174,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Using Kinect 360 as 3D Scanner,\"I would like to use my old Xbox 360 Kinect as a scanner for 3D modeling and (hopefully) printing a few busts of friends/family members; however, my efforts have failed in each direction that I have taken. Has anyone had success with this, and if so, how do I fix the issues that I am facing?\n\nWhat I have done so far and the problems that I have had:\n\n\nI have purchased a cable to supply 12V to the Kinect while also allowing USB to a PC.\nI have installed the Kinect SDK as well as the Kinect Developers Toolkit on my Windows 10 Ultrabook.\nI installed the Microsoft \"\"3D Scan\"\" app and the \"\"Kinect Readiness\"\" app (not the name, unsure of it at this point) provided by Microsoft.\n\n\n**Issue: ** Neither Microsoft app detects the Kinect when cable is plugged in. The Kinect's light slowly flashes green. Also, my cursor freezes when the Kinect is plugged in.\n\n\nI checked the Hardware profiles and found a notification that I do not have the drivers for the Kinect motor and that no suitable drivers could be found. However, no other details about the Kinect showed up.\nI uninstalled the SDK and developer toolkits and installed v1.7, ran them in compatibility mode (Windows 8) and same issues arose.\nI then began looking into using a different program, found ReconstructMe. This too failed to detect the Kinect even when it was manually selected as the scanner.\n\n\nAny ideas? I also have a Linux Mint laptop that I will happily use for these efforts if I knew what software to capture the 3D scan with. It seems that there are several driver options out there, just unsure of what to use besides that. It seems that Blender can be used for some motion capture with Kinect; however, I am unsure of how this relates to my goals. \n\",FrankL,\"I tried the same setting old kinect (but for PC - actually with power supply and usb-cable) plug to my surface windows10.\n\nAfter some troubles, it works now ;-)\n\nThe mentioned MS 3D scan and kinect readiness wont work. It is supposed for the new kinect2 model, because of the new driver. Best you deinstall both. Even the drivers and SDKs.\n\nYou need Kinect for Windows v1.8 for the old kinect. https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=40278\n\nRecFusion is a software for using a single or multiple depth cams for getting 3d models. It works quite good with my kinect. It costs 99euros. http://recfusion.net/index.php/en/download\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n2710,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,JG7,3.267423727073639,3.9952136103058273,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Fan Fails to Start,\"SOLVED: I replaced the leads coming from the fan motor and it is working just fine. Thanks for the input. If anyone else has this model, I would suggest printing and installing a wire clip in order to prevent the issue. Here is the one that I am using now: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:620627\n\nI am running a Printrbot Simple Metal with a heated bed and have not been able to get my fan to run recently. The fan used to run just fine (for the past 3 months in fact--since purchase). I cannot be certain, but this may be related to the cord getting snagged by the hot-end last week (cables have begun to sag over time). Nothing melted or damaged except for the hard-plastic coil used to bundle all cables together, and that appears to just be minor, cosmetic damage. \n\nI have checked Cura settings, ensuring that fan operation is selected (starting at 0.6 mm) and that it is being told to run at 100%.\n\nI have also sent 'M106 S255' from Proterface UI (this, from what I have researched, should turn the fan on at 100%). This command had no results.\n\nThe firmware is stock (Marlin), all exposed cables seem intact and without damage, and the plug to the control board seems to be fine. Maybe I could apply current to it directly and see if it runs?\n\nEDIT1: I put 2 6V lantern batteries in series (voltmeter shows 12.3V) and hooked it to the fan cable; the fan did not budge (even with encouragement in the form of a slight push from the hand). Is there a particular spot in the cable that is vulnerable to failing if pulled on? \n\nAny thoughts, suggestions, or things to look into? \n\nEDIT2: I have disassembled the cable bundle leading to the fan and hot-end. I have found a connection point where the fan plugs into an extension cable which goes to the control board. I have applied current here and the fan doesn't move. I tested the current on another 12V fan laying around and that fan runs just fine. So, it seems that the fan has gone bad...somehow. I am still quite confused on how this would happen. Is it possible for a DC fan to \"\"overheat\"\" due to poor airflow? I have a shroud on the fan (http://d17kynu4zpq5hy.cloudfront.net/igi/printrbot/CnoDPS5D1CZ5EgBR.standard) and there has always been a little back pressure pushing wind out of the back of the fan.\n\nEDIT3: So I have resorted to tearing into the fan and have applied 12V to the wires which are soldered directly to the fan and the fan doesn't work. I then applied the current directly to the solder points and the fan runs. Is there a reason why a set of wires, which look perfectly fine from the outside, would fail to run the fan?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"\n Is there a reason why a set of wires, which look perfectly fine from the outside, would fail to run the fan?\n\n\nThe internal conductor is broken. This can happen over time due to metal fatigue from the constant movement, and the cables getting snagged may indeed have something to do with it. You could try desoldering the current wires from the fan and replacing them with fresh ones, or getting a new fan altogether.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n1547,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Logic1,3.452496054252184,5.305820774383288,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.488653845767225,Methods for applying full color graphic decals to the surface of a 3d printed part?,\"I'm trying to find a way of applying graphics to my ABS printed parts. \n\nI need a robust method which can produce a decent amount of detail with true color and legible fine text .\nI also was hoping to avoid the use of stickers and opt for something that's slightly more permanent. \n\nI was wondering if there are ways in which a vinyl decal or other types of decal material could be pressed into the face of a plastic part and then thermally fuse the two layers together using heat transfer method?\n\nMost of the surfaces I work with would be flat, but there are some parts that are slightly curved and it would be totally amazing if I could somehow apply graphics to those areas as well.\n\nThanks for any hints\n\",jcoats,\"Industry has for years used a 'pad printer' to put images on complex shapes, like plastic or ceramic travel mugs, etc.\n\nI have observed these, but never used one. I see no reason why there couldn't be a DIY version made.\n\nBest of luck, and I look forward to seeing what you come up with!\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n1547,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Logic1,3.452496054252184,5.305820774383288,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.488653845767225,Methods for applying full color graphic decals to the surface of a 3d printed part?,\"I'm trying to find a way of applying graphics to my ABS printed parts. \n\nI need a robust method which can produce a decent amount of detail with true color and legible fine text .\nI also was hoping to avoid the use of stickers and opt for something that's slightly more permanent. \n\nI was wondering if there are ways in which a vinyl decal or other types of decal material could be pressed into the face of a plastic part and then thermally fuse the two layers together using heat transfer method?\n\nMost of the surfaces I work with would be flat, but there are some parts that are slightly curved and it would be totally amazing if I could somehow apply graphics to those areas as well.\n\nThanks for any hints\n\",Chris Thompson,\"I think this will work for you...\n\nLaser Printer Image Transfer:\n\n\nPrint reverse image with color laser printer on regular paper.\nApply Mod Podge or artist arcylic or artist matte gel to the 3d printed surface. You may need to sand it first to get it nice and smooth.\nApply same to picture and put picture, face down, onto the surface that you're transferring to.\nLet dry.\nWash and rub off paper with water.\nApply protective clear coat...polyurethane or some other waterproof sealer.\n...\nProfit\n\n\nThis method has been popular in the DIY craft world for years so you should be able to google around for more tips. My wife transferred pictures onto coasters this way...pretty easy. Also, since paper is flexible, I think this would work on a simple curve.\n\nHope this helps. :-)\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1552,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Logic1,2.528907649931287,3.5689866985524614,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Looking for a material so I can make ABS parts with rubber grips and feet,\"Looking for something that offers a lot of friction in contact with human skin or when sitting on the surface of a table. \n\nI was curious if any of the rubber/soft materials would be compatible with ABS so I could print them together using a dual-head setup?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"Ninjaflex dual-extrudes great with ABS. I've done a fair amount of NF/ABS dualstrusion. Frankly, any TPU will probably work, since molten polyurethane sticks to practically anything. \n\nThe main challenge is ooze control since TPUs tend to ooze a lot. You're going to want to use a printing temp on the low end of the range for the flexible filament, and use some sort of wiper wall structure. \n\nAnother issue you might run into is re-priming the flexible filament after an extended idle time. It helps to use a large purge structure to ensure the nozzle gets re-primed fully. Don't use an excessively large toolchange retraction distance -- this will make it more likely that the flexible filament jams during reprime. \n\nThe best way to accomplish the above will depend on your slicer. Simplify3D is a good choice since it has good dualstrusion wiper and purge functions. Other slicers can be made to work as well. \n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n1553,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,hrust,3.0576060275493275,5.96876017668972,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Marlin temperature sensor problem,\"I have a RAMPS 1.4 and an Arduino Mega 2560. The problem is with 100k NTC thermistor. I've tested it with a multimeter, it results in ~122kΩ.\n\nI am using Marlin 1.0.2 (latest stable). I am using an MK8 extruder and do not receive temperature readings from the thermo-sensor - no matter how I connect it. However, on APrinter firmware it works flawlessly.\n\nIn configuration.h, I have tried most of the options, but found \"\"1\"\" is the best one for me.\n\nExecuting m105 on Marlin, I get following result: \n\nok T:0.0 /0.0 B:0.0 /0.0 T0:0.0 /0.0 @:0 B@:0\n\n\nOn APrinter, the result is different:\n\nok B:-inf /nan T:25.2076 /nan\n\n\nI have not connected bed thermistor yet.\n\npins.h\n\n#define TEMP_0_PIN 1 // Extruder / Analog pin numbering\n#define TEMP_BED_PIN 0 // Bed / Analog pin numbering\n\n\nconfiguration.h\n\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1\n\n...\n\n#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFB\n\n\nAfter switching back and forth from Marlin to APrinter and back, Marlin stopped woking completely. I had configured the LCD (ReprapDiscount Smart Controller) and all the steppers were working. Right now, it does not even sends self test to Pronterface upon start/connection, or it hangs according to the log. \n\nPronterface output\n\nConnecting...\nstart\nPrinter is now online.\necho:Marlin1.0.2\necho: Last Updated: Jul 25 2016 17:12:39 | Author: (Rustam Rahimgulov, default config)\nCompiled: Jul 25 2016\necho: Free Memory: 3971 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232\necho:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded\necho:Steps per unit:\necho: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z4000.00 E836.00\necho:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):\necho: M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z2.00 E25.00\necho:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):\necho: M201 X9000 Y9000 Z100 E10000\necho:Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration\necho: M204 S300.00 T3000.00\necho:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)\necho: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Z0.40 E5.00\necho:Home offset (mm):\necho: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00\necho:PID settings:\necho: M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00\nstart\necho:Marlin1.0.2\nec (nothing more here, output just ends)\n\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"In the actual Marlin Firmware all supported printer boards are listed within the file \"\"boards.h\"\". This file contains the following entries for the RAMPS 1.4:\n\n\n#define BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFB 33 // RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder, Fan, Bed)\n#define BOARD_RAMPS_13_EEB 34 // RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder0, Extruder1, Bed)\n#define BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFF 35 // RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder, Fan, Fan)\n#define BOARD_RAMPS_13_EEF 36 // RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder0, Extruder1, Fan)\n\n\nThe most common version may be the variant . In this case you have to set the value as the following lines show.\n\n\n#ifndef MOTHERBOARD\n #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFB\n#endif\n\n\nEnable Display\n\n\n#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER\n\n\nOk, it's time to make the adjustments specific to your 3d printer. You might first check the setting for the amount of extruders at around line 58. Most 3d printer rookies may start with one extruder, so the default entry of '1' is quite sufficient.\n\n// This defines the number of extruders\n\n\n#define EXTRUDERS 1\n\n\nAt around line 70 you have to set up the thermistors connected to the RAMPS for the extruder and the heatbed. Depending on your hardware configuration you have to change the last value in the defines.\n\n\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 -1\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 -1\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 0\n\n\nThe define for TEMP_SENSOR_0 determins which thermistor type is assembled at the hotend of extruder 1. This termistor has to be connected to the first sensor input (see also wiring schema). The thermistor for the heatbed has to be connected to the second sensor input. The thermistor type is configured with the define line of 'TEMP_SENSOR_BED'. If you use a thermistor of the type EPCOS B57560G104F (100K, Beta = 4036), you write the value '1' into the matching define. In case you have a thermistor with 100k and Beta = 3950, you have to set the value '60' in the corresponding define. So the defines will look e.g.:\n\nFor EPCOS (Beta = 4036) on hotend and heatbed:\n\n\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 -1\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1\n\n\nFor Beta = 3950 on hotend and heatbed:\n\n\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 60\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 -1\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 60\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1555,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,KDK,3.0576060275493275,4.330699985605404,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Access Temperature sensor data of 3D printer via Serial connection,\"I want to access the bed and nozzle temperature sensor data of a 3D printer via serial connection. Could someone please guide me in the right direction?\n\nThanks!\n\nEdit: Response from printer:\n\nConnecting to printer...\nConnection response from printer:\n6R7�P)��h>L�JO� � ��V�\\��`�r��T �� SK�<ʪ� �>�Vw^$���|���R n�I, o�!����H>�\n mx�}M#\n �LYԣPh���^@ ��rp � TP�j�~1�� V6 6 � f� 6�k#���&�H\"\".��k K2���ek�(��&��^K�k2����Ul�(� ���~N�ʈ*.�>Z��k#d$�����(� ��\n��(� ��� v��\n���\nAsking for temperatures (M105)...\nTemperature response from printer:\n^CTraceback (most recent call last):\n File \"\"printer_files/serialaccess.py\"\", line 15, in <module>\n response = ser_printer.readline()\n File \"\"/usr/lib/python2.7/dist-packages/serial/serialposix.py\"\", line 446, in read\n ready,_,_ = select.select([self.fd],[],[], self._timeout)\nKeyboardInterrupt\n\n\nAfter the code asks the printer for temperature values, there is no output on the terminal anymore. I waited for a while and then killed it using control+c. It is clear that the printer is responding to the connection response but I am not sure why it is not returning the temperature values. Again, thanks a lot for your help, Demetris!\n\",Demetris,\"Assuming your printer accepts conventional G-code flavor, extruder and bed temperature can be retrieved by sending M105 through the serial port. The printer will respond with ok T:XXX.X B:XXX.X where T is the nozzle temperature and B is the bed temperature.\n\nYou can read more about the specific G-code in the RepRap wiki.\n\nEDIT:\nI am editing the answer to include information for connecting to the printer using a simple python script.\n\nThe following script, first opens a serial connection to the printer. For Marlin firmware, when you first connect to the printer, it needs some time to initialize and respond back. That is why some delay is needed before reading the response. After printing the response, the script sends the M105 command, waits for 100ms, then reads the response of the serial buffer and prints it on the screen. \n\nNote /dev/ttyUSB0 is the serial port name and in your case it may be different. Also 250000 is the baud rate of the connection; 250000 is the default value of my printer so you need to replace this with the baud rate that your printer uses.\n\nimport serial\nimport time\n\nser_printer = serial.Serial('/dev/ttyUSB0', 250000)\nprint \"\"Connecting to printer...\"\"\ntime.sleep(30) # Allow time for response\nbuffer_bytes = ser_printer.inWaiting()\nresponse = ser_printer.read(buffer_bytes) # Read data in the buffer\nprint \"\"Connection response from printer:\"\"\nprint response\nprint \"\"Asking for temperatures (M105)...\"\"\nser_printer.write('M105\\n')\ntime.sleep(0.1) # Allow time for response\nprint \"\"Temperature response from printer:\"\"\nresponse = ser_printer.readline()\nprint response\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n2661,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,KDK,1.726248027126092,3.171906017490645,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Print job stops when given serial command,\"I want to access the bed temperature of the 3D printer. I am able to get the temperatures using serial connection (Thanks to Demetris's help (Access Temperature sensor data of 3D printer via Serial connection)). The problem that I am facing now is that as soon as I give the command, I get the temperature values, however the print job stops. Is there a way around it? I want to get the temperature values as the print job goes on. TIA!\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Opening a serial connection to your printer will usually reset the microcontroller, stopping the print.\n\nThe serial interface has a line known as request to send (RTS) that indicates to the microcontroller that the computer is ready to receive data. When the port is closed, this line is HIGH (indicating the computer is not ready), and when you open the serial connection the line goes LOW (indicating the computer is ready now) and the transition from HIGH to LOW triggers a reset.\n\nThere are a number of ways to prevent this:\n\n\nIn software: disable hang up on close (HUPCL). This prevents the RTS line from going HIGH after you close it, allowing it to be subsequently opened without causing a reset. However, this does not work for the first attempt (the first, initial connection still causes a reset). How this is configured depends on your software/driver set up, but it is widely supported.\nIn software: disable the RTS line from going LOW in the first place. I'm not sure if this is readily possible with common serial drivers.\nIn software: modify your workflow to always keep the connection open, preventing the associated reset from happening.\nIn hardware: your printer's board will have some circuitry on there that translates the RTS line transitioning from HIGH to LOW to trigger a reset, usually this is implemented in the form of a single capacitor between RTS and RST. RST is normally pulled high with a pull-up resistor (on the order of 10k or so), and when RTS transitions to low the capacitor briefly allows some current to flow, pulling RST low. One way to prevent this is to include a stronger pull-up resistor that overcomes the current drain associated with the RTS line going LOW. DisablingAutoResetOnSerialConnection suggests using a 330 Ohm resistor between VCC and GND.\nIn hardware: desolder the capacitor mentioned earlier.\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1559,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,GypsyCosmonaut,2.8153892694839717,3.247326609336232,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Are 3D printers efficient for printing a detailed iris to bypass iris identification system?,\"A 3D printer can either print layer by layer or carve an object layer by layer to obtain an object. I heard somewhere that 3D printing technology isn't that accurate for printing minute details like fingerprints and iris patterns. Printing an iris pattern using a 3D printer would be a nice test to find this out. Can it print the iris pattern accurately? If not, then to what extent would be the accuracy of the 3D printed model of iris? Many commercial iris scanners can be easily fooled by high quality images of iris. Can a 3D printer print the these minute iris patterns with as much detail?\n\",thatgeeman,\"I take lectures in university and was asked to read a review paper on 3D printed organs by Anthony Atala (the most famous paper in printed organs research). The paper discussed about using several techniques to print the tissue we need at functional resolution. The review also cites detailed procedures to 3D print lung and skin tissues.\n\nComing back to your question, we have reached a point in time where we can scan a real Iris and print them! Yes. And people use this technique called self assembly to achieve this (Other design approaches like Biomimicry and MiniTissue assembly is also being used right now). To do this we first extract cells from the donor. Or We do a functional high res scan of the extracted cell/part that we want to replicate. This is done via FMT-CT-Fluorescence Imaging, etc. And we cultivate the cells in bio incubators (we can also print cells btw - If the exact environment and operational conditions are maintained, we can print cell-replicas that will later self assemble to form the Iris with the same resolution and functional properties as that of the real one). The cultivated/printed cell is used as the tissue forming material. Forming is done by the cells themselves and is thus christened Self assembly.\n\nAlthough this may sound futuristic, Autonomous Self Assembly is something that's already being done in Labs! The method works by studying embryonic organ development. For instance, Early stage cellular components of a developing tissue makes their own ECM. Like mentioned before, if we use proper signalling, and environmental manipulation, we can create autonomous organization and patterning to make something we want. Advantage of this method is that we can work without scaffolds. This method relies on cell as primary driver of histogenesis. Knowledge of how an embryo grows into tissue (embroyo tissue genesis and organogenesis) is applied to achieve \"\"real\"\" cell dimensions/properties.\n\nI would recommend you to read the paper for detailed information. The method I mentioned in this post is only one among three other methods that are being used currently in this domain.\n\nSo yeah. My answer is yes. You can print an Iris and fool the system.\n\n--\nUpdates\n\n\nS. V. Murphy and A. Atala, “3D bioprinting of tissues and organs,” Nature Biotechnology, vol. 32, no. 8, pp. 773–785, Aug. 2014. DOI: 10.1038/nbt.2958 \nWithdrew my claim \"\"any given resolution\"\"\nDetails of the process\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n1560,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,3dalliance,1.726248027126092,4.44933886745205,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.878685800062712,What is PEI+PC 3D Print material? ISS 3D Print Contest,\"There was a contest to develop 3D printable files for the International Space Station's 3D printer. The winner got a 3D printer ... runners up got Fluke DVOM's and all entrants got a t-shirt.\n\nISS 3D Print Contest\n\nThey offer 3 materials: ABS, HDPE, and PEI+PC ... I'm not familiar with the last one. Anyone know?\n\nIf found this material on Matweb: PEI+PC Alloy\n\nThese links are thought to last a very long time. I hope many of you decide to upload a project into contest site and compete for the grand prize ... A sweet John Fluke DVOM. If nothing else a free awesome T-shirt.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"PEI - polyethermide is a \"\"common\"\" coating for heated print beds. PC is so many different things, but in this context, it's likely to mean polycarbonate plastic. From what I've read, it's challenging to print with and especially challenging to get a good bond on the build plate. One reference suggests to use a PEI coated bed with a slurry of ABS applied prior to printing. As with so many things 3d printer related, many people have many different methods. The above one appears to be well received as a successful method.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1560,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,3dalliance,1.726248027126092,4.44933886745205,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.878685800062712,What is PEI+PC 3D Print material? ISS 3D Print Contest,\"There was a contest to develop 3D printable files for the International Space Station's 3D printer. The winner got a 3D printer ... runners up got Fluke DVOM's and all entrants got a t-shirt.\n\nISS 3D Print Contest\n\nThey offer 3 materials: ABS, HDPE, and PEI+PC ... I'm not familiar with the last one. Anyone know?\n\nIf found this material on Matweb: PEI+PC Alloy\n\nThese links are thought to last a very long time. I hope many of you decide to upload a project into contest site and compete for the grand prize ... A sweet John Fluke DVOM. If nothing else a free awesome T-shirt.\n\",Teddy Lee,\"Ultem 9085, the most common ultem resin used for AM, is a blend of PEI-PC, as seen here https://www.sabic-ip.com/gepapp/Plastics/servlet/ProductsAndServices/Product/series?sltPrdline=ULTEM&sltPrdseries=Aerospace%20and%20Transportation&search=Search#searchresults.\n\nUltem is a trade name for PEI alloys made by Sabic and 9085, used in filaments made by both Stratasys and 3dXtech as the two most visible suppliers are both made with this same alloy. It is used for high temperature resistance and strength and needs to be printed at upwards of 300C in a contained environment.\n\nSource-Intern at Made in Space.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n1571,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,amjad hussain,1.0891412423578797,3.0241567845277415,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Prusa HE3D Xi3 missing step on x and y axis,\"I am using Prusa HE3D Xi3. While printing after 5 or 6 layers it misses the step on x and y axis. \n\nCan anybody explain what is the reason?\n\",Pelle,\"There's a possibility that your power supply lags after a while, the quality of power supplies on cheaper 3D printers are sometimes an issue.\n\nThere's also a possible that the stepper motor drivers aren't putting out enough power. This can be adjusted by turning the trimmer on the driver, check the printer documentation for instructions on how to do that.\n\",0.0,0.0\n1579,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Luke,3.267423727073639,4.065321832037903,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Cloning the Marlin git repo while keeping my configuration.h settings?,\"I cloned the Marlin repository and changed all my settings in configuration.h to match my old settings. Now when the RC branch gets updated, is there a way to upstream pull the changes without losing my settings?\n\",Demetris,\"Based on this answer, you need the following procedure:\n\n\nStash your local changes using git stash\nPull from remote repository using git pull\nMerge your stashed configuration file using git stash pop\n\n\nOf course, if there are changes in the configuration.h file on the remote repository and cause conflicts, you will need to resolve them, but it should be straight forward.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n1581,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris G. Williams,2.528907649931287,5.666788651567854,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,When to use Wave Bonding vs Raft on a 3D print?,\"I use a Micro3D printer, running on OctoPi (yay!) (although this question should be relevant to any 3D printer that offers these features) and have options for raft and wave bonding. \n\nAre there best case scenarios for when it is appropriate to use (or not use) either? Can/should they ever both be used at the same time?\n\",Chris G. Williams,\"After additional research, it seems that using both at the same time is ill-advised (more like pointless).\n\nWave bonding is best suited for larger prints, primarily to prevent warping of the initial layer.\n\nRafts appear to be recommended regardless, other than for advanced users.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n1582,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris G. Williams,3.0576060275493275,4.394816258951926,0.0,5.646830619998737,3.320478682445624,2.733506595715631,Is using a hair dryer on my M3D build plate safe?,\"I often have trouble with prints being especially difficult to remove from the build plate on my Micro3D printer. My wife suggested using a hair dryer on the underside of the plate. I was initially appalled at the idea, but now I think she may be on to something. Is this safe? Good idea? Bad idea? Heresay?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Typically, people cool down their build plates to get parts to release, rather than heat them up. That said, I doubt a hair drier will get hot enough to do any damage to the build plate. You could try it with no harm done.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n1582,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris G. Williams,3.0576060275493275,4.394816258951926,0.0,5.646830619998737,3.320478682445624,2.733506595715631,Is using a hair dryer on my M3D build plate safe?,\"I often have trouble with prints being especially difficult to remove from the build plate on my Micro3D printer. My wife suggested using a hair dryer on the underside of the plate. I was initially appalled at the idea, but now I think she may be on to something. Is this safe? Good idea? Bad idea? Heresay?\n\",kamuro,\"I agree to Tom's first part of the answer, usually you'd cool down the plate to loosen the print. This is reasoned by the shrinkage of the builplate while the print stays extended. The strain put into the interface helps to get the print of. Warming the plate could essentially do the same, but since you deposit a warm filament, one would assume that by warming up you will reduce the strain that has been built up by the regular cooling of the filament already.\n\nI guess an uneven heating with a hairdryer will probably introduce uneven strain or evan some kind of warping of the buildplate that puts more strain to the interface which makes your approach work. If you want to test whether you have some local deformation you could characterize this by reflecting a laserpointer from the heatbed and marking the reflection on a rather far away wall for some controlled positions you can get the laser in (by say putting it on a photography tripod). The change of this reflections towards each other could tell you about the deformation.\n\nI also agree that most of the hairdryers around would not be hot enough to be a worry, but since most of the Micro3D is made from plastic I would put twice the time into figuring out if that is really true.\n\nJust for the fun of it, you could put an ice cube next to your finished print if you make sure that molten water will not go anywhere it is not supposed to be. Maybe this lifts off the print as well. However, I do not recommend doing this, of course.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n1588,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,JRomero,2.8153892694839717,4.560974142900851,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Wanhao i3 PLUS restarts when connecting USB,\"I just received my Wanhao Duplicator i3 PLUS. Everything prints and functions fine via SD card and the display but when connecting to my Mac computer the printer seems to restart.\n\n\nBaud Rate: 115200\nSerial Port: /dev/tty.wchusbserial1420\n\n\nAny ideas what it could be?\n\",Lars Pötter,\"I don't know that printer. But Arduino has a feature that a USB connection causes a reset. The Idea is that this helps when doing software update as the Arduino Boot loader will be active for one second after that reset.\n\nThis can be disabled, but needs hardware modification.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n1588,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,JRomero,2.8153892694839717,4.560974142900851,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Wanhao i3 PLUS restarts when connecting USB,\"I just received my Wanhao Duplicator i3 PLUS. Everything prints and functions fine via SD card and the display but when connecting to my Mac computer the printer seems to restart.\n\n\nBaud Rate: 115200\nSerial Port: /dev/tty.wchusbserial1420\n\n\nAny ideas what it could be?\n\",ftobler,\"That is normal on most printers. They restart if you connect.\n\nAs you have an SD card slot I would recommend using it rather than your computer. If your connected computer goes to sleep it would also reset the connection after wakeup.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n1590,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,JRomero,2.1782824847157594,4.855705144778472,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Where is the auto-reset jumper on the Wanhao i3 PLUS?,\"I'm having some issues when connecting to the printer via USB, see Wanhao i3 PLUS restarts when connecting USB. \n\nAfter some research I thought I would try to remove the auto-reboot jumper. Now that the i3 Plus uses a custom board instead of the standard Melzi, I'm not sure where to find it. \n\nSee pictures attached:\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\",Lars Pötter,\"The pictures don't help much, and I don't know the board. But if it is as described here, Elec Freaks Wiki - RAMPS Melzi, then you need to look for the FTDI Chip FT232. The reset is caused by the DTR Signal. There needs to be a copper trace from pin 2 to the capacitor and then to the jumper. From the jumper a trace leads to pin 4 of the Atmel ATmega.\n\nIf it is a clone, the jumper might have been \"\"optimized away\"\". If so, desoldering the capacitor gives the same result. Be certain to desolder the right one. If unsure keep the capacitor and solder it back in if it was the wrong one.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n2607,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,masterleo,3.0576060275493275,5.372970465018597,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,3.206343760378365,Clean or wipe move for delta 3D printers,\"I own a delta 3D printer. The problem is that, at the beginning of a print the extruder outputs dirty filament. I want a clean filament flow at the start of my prints!\n\nHow can I make the hotend exit the print surface (glass plate) by 10mm, extrude the bad filament and go back to printing again? Can this be done with G-code?\n\nMy Z high is 190 mm and the glass plate diameter is 120 mm. I'm using Marlin + Ramps 1.4. \n\nI'm using Repetier-Host and CuraEngine as Slicer, but I really would like a G-code that can work on multiple environments like Cura and Repetier. I just want to add it to the start G-code and print!\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"You can achieve this using the G1 command. I don't know your exact printer, but you should be able to use something like this (add to the start G-code in your slicer):\n\nG1 X0 Y62 Z0.2 F9000 ; Move slightly past edge of bed\n\nG92 E0 ; Zero extruder position\n\nG0 E1 F100 ; Extrude 1mm of filament\n\nG92 E0 ; Zero again\n\nG1 X0 Y0 F9000 ; Move back to center of bed\n\n\nThe first line moves the extruder to slightly past the edge of the bed (since the diameter is 120, the radius is 60, and 62 is slightly past the maximum radius). I've set Z to 0.2mm to avoid hitting the plate, but you might be able to lower this.\n\nThe next 3 lines zero the extruder position, extrudes 1mm of filament, and resets it to zero (when starting a print the slicer expects E to start at 0).\n\nThe final line moves back to the bed center. This might not be neccesary (you might be able to replace this line with just G1 F9000 to set the feedrate back to something that makes sense for travel moves) because you don't need to move back explicitly: the slicer will take care of moving the head in position to start the print.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n2607,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,masterleo,3.0576060275493275,5.372970465018597,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,3.206343760378365,Clean or wipe move for delta 3D printers,\"I own a delta 3D printer. The problem is that, at the beginning of a print the extruder outputs dirty filament. I want a clean filament flow at the start of my prints!\n\nHow can I make the hotend exit the print surface (glass plate) by 10mm, extrude the bad filament and go back to printing again? Can this be done with G-code?\n\nMy Z high is 190 mm and the glass plate diameter is 120 mm. I'm using Marlin + Ramps 1.4. \n\nI'm using Repetier-Host and CuraEngine as Slicer, but I really would like a G-code that can work on multiple environments like Cura and Repetier. I just want to add it to the start G-code and print!\n\",StarWind0,\"A lot of slicers will have a Wipe option. Here are some examples:\n\n\nSee Unofficial Simplify3D Documentation. Go to the section talking about Wipe Nozzle, under the heading Extruder Tab\n\n\n Two more ooze-fighting options are Coast at end and Wipe nozzle. Coast turns off the extruder the specified distance before it normally would, to drain what would have oozed as the end of a line. This can help with ooze-induced blobs at the end of lines, but if turned up too high will lead to gaps in your print walls. Changes to this setting will be visible as gaps in the g-code preview.\n \n Wipe has the nozzle retrace over the start of a perimeter line at the\n end of a perimeter for the specified distance with the extruder off,\n to leave any ooze behind before proceeding. It is similar to Coast in\n that it moves the extruder without extruding, but wipe occurs after\n the end of the line while coast occurs before.\n\nSlic3r has some sort of coasting. But I think in their docs the option is there: Slic3r Manual - Fighting Ooze\n\n\n Wipe before retract - Moves the nozzle whilst retracting so as to reduce the chances of a blob forming.\n\n\n\nAs you asked for G-Code here you go:\n\n\nReprap Forum - Wipe nozzle via GCODE\n\nExample\n\n;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}\n;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}\n;Print time: {print_time}\n;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g\n;Filament cost: {filament_cost}\n;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line\n;M109 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line\nG21 ;metric values\nG90 ;absolute positioning\nM82 ;set extruder to absolute mode\nM107 ;start with the fan off\nG28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops\nG28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops\nM117 Auto-level...\nG29 ;auto-level\n;G92 Z-.01 ; Lower = Z Pos, Lift = Z Neg\nM117 Preparing...\nG1 Z10.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length\nG1 F100 E30 ;extrude 10mm of feed stock\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again\nG1 F{travel_speed}\n;Put printing message on LCD screen\nM300 S900 P160 ;start beep\nM300 S1000 P160\nM300 S2000 P160\nM0 ;Wait for the user\nM117 Printing...\n\nLulzbot forum - Start GCODE Script for Wipe, in particular this post:\n\nExample\n\nG91 ; switch to relative positioning\nG1 Z10 ; safe raise of z axis to ensure probe doesn't hit bed clamp\nG90 ; switch back to absolute positioning\nG28 ; home all axes\nG29 ; level print bed\nG1 X298 Y137 Z2 F5000 ; move to wait position right hand side of the table\nG1 Z0.4 ; position nozzle\nG1 E25 F300 ; purge nozzle\nM400 ; wait for purge to complete\nG1 X285 F1200 ; slow wipe\nG1 Z0.5 F1200 ; lift\n\n\n\nThat should get you started.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3167,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,masterleo,3.0576060275493275,6.040319576762718,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,How to use E1 as E0?,\"Like many people, I have burnt the pins in the micro-controller connected to the E0 motor - the E0 motor is not working anymore and I need to print tomorrow! I need to control the extruder motor with the working E1 pins. How do I change this in firmware? \n\nI tried to change to the pins in `pins_RAMPS.h\"\" but it was a complete fail, the motors that i tried to change didn't move. \n\nI have a Arduino Mega + Ramps 1.3 in \"\"Extruder Fan Bed\"\" configuration, I use Repetier-Host as host and Marlin as firmware. \n\",Mikhail Z,\"As a quick and dirty solution you may try to enable two extruders in configuration file, re-upload firmware, and then edit your GCODE file to replace all E0 references with E1.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n3167,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,masterleo,3.0576060275493275,6.040319576762718,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,How to use E1 as E0?,\"Like many people, I have burnt the pins in the micro-controller connected to the E0 motor - the E0 motor is not working anymore and I need to print tomorrow! I need to control the extruder motor with the working E1 pins. How do I change this in firmware? \n\nI tried to change to the pins in `pins_RAMPS.h\"\" but it was a complete fail, the motors that i tried to change didn't move. \n\nI have a Arduino Mega + Ramps 1.3 in \"\"Extruder Fan Bed\"\" configuration, I use Repetier-Host as host and Marlin as firmware. \n\",Thomas S.,\"I would change the pin assignments by swapping E0 and E1 in pins_RAMPS.h.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n2612,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,O.K.,3.0576060275493275,4.261303989854891,4.072585167927022,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,3D printing enclosure with LED indication symbols -- is this possible?,\"I am looking to print an enclosure, which will have a PCB inside with some LED indicators. I was wondering if it is possible to 3D print the enclosure such that the following look can be achieved? What material and technique?\n\nWhen LEDs are off, it looks something like this:\n\n\n\nWHen the LED turns on, it looks like this (illuminated symbols):\n\n\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Achieving this with 3D printing would be quite difficult, and you might be better served by creating this effect some other way (I would personally recommend getting some inkjet transparencies and stacking a few layers together: an entirely black layer, and a few layers with the symbols in negative space).\n\nOne way that you might be able to achieve this using just a common FDM printer is to print the part face down, and printing just a single layer or two that covers the entire face, and then printing more layers that cover everything but the symbols. However, those symbols look small and detailed and you might not be able to reproduce such detail.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n2612,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,O.K.,3.0576060275493275,4.261303989854891,4.072585167927022,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,3D printing enclosure with LED indication symbols -- is this possible?,\"I am looking to print an enclosure, which will have a PCB inside with some LED indicators. I was wondering if it is possible to 3D print the enclosure such that the following look can be achieved? What material and technique?\n\nWhen LEDs are off, it looks something like this:\n\n\n\nWHen the LED turns on, it looks like this (illuminated symbols):\n\n\n\",Pelle,\"You can print the \"\"lid\"\" in translucent (gray) and stick a piece of laser printed transparency film under it with the symbols (print it \"\"negative\"\" so the symbols are transparent and the rest is black). Depending on the quality of the printed black you might want to stack two printouts to minimize light sipping through the black areas. A divider separating the leds underneath ensures that only one symbol lights up.\n\nThis will work better the better surface quality the \"\"lid\"\" has.\n\",0.0,0.0\n2615,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Vraj Pandya,2.1782824847157594,4.016817001487613,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Print bed moves way up for printing,\"I am new to 3D printing and I am assembling/calibrating an Ultimaker Original+ for my college.\n\nI am done with all the assembling and the printer works fine except for one thing.\n\nThe print bed moves way up. It touches the extruder and pushes it upwards. So, the extruder cannot extrude any material.\n\nI tried to set the Z axis value before string the print but as soon as I start the print the platform just moves up and blocks the extruder.\n\nPlease let me know if you need any more information from my side.\n\",Lars Pötter,\"It is normal for an Ultimaker print bed to move up. But it should be stopped before the nozzle.\n\nAs it doesn't stop the end stop doesn't work. So either the end stop is not connected to the right connector or it is triggering too late.\n\nThe Z end stop must be screwed at the right hight. If you mount it too far up it will not trigger. The bed assembly has a small wooden peace that sticks up. The idea is that that wooden peace pushes the end stop at the right hight.\n\nSo instead of configuring the hight in the firmware you need to mount the Z end stop at the exact right hight. You can make the fine adjustments(Bed Leveling) with the screws that hold the bed.\n\nYou can test the end stop by manually triggering while the bed moves up. It needs to stop immediately once you trigger the end stop. If the bed does not stop, then check the connection or exchange the switch.\n\nIt can happen that the switch itself malfunctions if you screwed it in too tightly. So loosening up the screws a bit is a final test.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n2624,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BunnyKnitter,4.255155677057378,6.170868132994106,2.7799718631987322,5.199501240805782,3.548335113978322,2.453507803626381,Using dollar-store picture glass for print bed on top of original heated aluminum bed?,\"I'm having a really hard time printing on my aluminum heated bed... Cleaning it just results in it being scratched (trying to scrape dried hairspray/glue/etc off) and I don't think it is particularly flat either.\n\nI was thinking of stopping by the dollar store on my way home and getting several picture frames and using the glass from them as interchangeable glass beds - this would also make it easier to take them off the printer to clean without needing to re-level the bed every time as the aluminum base would stay-put.\n\nDo you guys think the quality of it would be okay to print on? (withstand the heat, be flat enough, etc) I'm planning to coat it in purple-glue-stick as I have heard that works well for adhesion purposes.\n\nFor reference: Printing PLA, Prusia i3 printer.\n\",kamuro,\"I am using a glass plate from a decommissioned flatbed scanner I got from the electronics trash. I cut it to size with a glass cutter and it is doing a swell job at 68°C for my PLA. The print sticks superbly during printing and almost pops off the buildplate when cooled down to less than 40°C.\n\nI am very happy with the glass as a buildplate for PLA, especially because it came for free.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n2624,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BunnyKnitter,4.255155677057378,6.170868132994106,2.7799718631987322,5.199501240805782,3.548335113978322,2.453507803626381,Using dollar-store picture glass for print bed on top of original heated aluminum bed?,\"I'm having a really hard time printing on my aluminum heated bed... Cleaning it just results in it being scratched (trying to scrape dried hairspray/glue/etc off) and I don't think it is particularly flat either.\n\nI was thinking of stopping by the dollar store on my way home and getting several picture frames and using the glass from them as interchangeable glass beds - this would also make it easier to take them off the printer to clean without needing to re-level the bed every time as the aluminum base would stay-put.\n\nDo you guys think the quality of it would be okay to print on? (withstand the heat, be flat enough, etc) I'm planning to coat it in purple-glue-stick as I have heard that works well for adhesion purposes.\n\nFor reference: Printing PLA, Prusia i3 printer.\n\",ON5MF Jurgen,\"I use normal glass plates on top of my heated borosilicate glass bed all the time.\n\nAdvantages:\n\n\nvery cheap (about €3 where the borosilicate glass bed of my printer costs about €80 to replace)\nno need to wait till the bed cools down to start a new print. Just put on an other sheet of glass and start over. (I use 3dlac to make my prints stick better so trying to remove a print from a hot borosilicate glass bed often results in a chipped glass)\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2629,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,jesbengradev,2.8153892694839717,3.538564895347879,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,RetinaCreate Optimal Rotation,\"I'm currently using FSL3d's RetinaCreate to prepare 3d-files for printing for research purposes. In this, I am relying on their Optimal Rotation feature which rotates the object by, as far as I can tell, judging models on their stability with regards to the printing direction. After rotating the model, supportstructures are generated to keep the model in place while printing without the bits and pieces floating about and to keep structural stability.\n\nMy question is, as I've neither found a manual nor any source-code (and admittedly I am terrrrrible at maths), how can I describe the kind of algorithm/logic used by the software here? This is essential for me, as I need to describe this in my research. Cheers, Jesse\n\",darth pixel,\"Optimal rotation can be considered from different perspectives. For example\n\n\nas little support as possible. This way app tries to orient object so as much surface as possible doesn't overhang and doesn't need support\nbed only support. App tries to orient object so all overhanging parts can be supported directly from the heatbed (not from the object itself)\n\n\nBut have a look on Meshmixer as Ryan Carlyle suggested. In this app you can see 3 kinds of auto orientation procedures. Additionally Meshmixer can create angle support and tree-like support.\n\nIn terms of mathematics. \n\nI cannot suggest any sources but you can imagine the way it calculates such optimal rotation. Let's say it will be dead simple explanation of the second approach:\n\nLet's get all faces (facets) and let's project their center points on the \"\"floor\"\" (heatbed) or \"\"ceiling\"\". If imagined projection line slices any other faces then rotation is not optimal. App can calculate \"\"a weight\"\" of such orientation and then try to find the smallest weight of all possible orientations.\n\nOf course it's not that simple. App has to manage concavity, which face requires support at all, and many other aspects but in general you can imagine the algorithm.\n\nedit\n\n\n\"\"as little support as possible\"\" could be considered as easier to imagine \"\"as little shaddow as possible\"\" and the problem can be simplified to projection and ray tracing\nsimilarly \"\"bed only support\"\" could be simplified to \"\"cast shaddows but not on itself\"\"\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n2637,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Beeblebrox,3.9045305118418514,6.0752928965490165,3.507933925167123,4.022883302450398,4.503257053771732,3.7272071097011072,Heated bed - what are the benefits? Why use one?,\"When using a heated bed with your printer, I have seen claims of running temperatures of 90c throughout the print.\n\nThat seems like a fairly high power use to keep a large slab of, say, aluminium at 90c for long print times (ie multiple hours).\n\nIs there a common 'sweet spot' for operating temperature?\n\nDoes it depend on material?\n\nIs a heated bed required?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"Heatbeds have two purposes:\n\n\nIncrease surface energy of the print bed to improve bonding strength of the first layer (particularly important when using surfaces like PEI or Kapton)\nKeep the bottom few millimeters of the print hot enough to provide a warp-free foundation for the rest of the print. \n\n\nThe bit about surface energy is straightforward. Most materials are stickier when hot than cold. In comparison, pure mechanical-bonding bed surfaces like fibrous painter's tape and perfboard don't particularly benefit from bed heat.\n\nWarping is a bit more complicated. The basic cause of warping is when the previous layer is allowed to cool and thermally contract before the next layer is deposited. When you stick hot, expanded material on top of cold, contracted material, large shear stresses are generated when the fresh material cools and contracts. Those inter-layer shear stresses then accumulate over many layers into large-scale bending stresses that try to lift the edges of the print off the bed.\n\nSo, to prevent warping, we should minimize the amount that the previous layer is allowed to cool before the next layer goes down. But we DO need it to cool solid so the print doesn't sag in a mushy mess. This is a balancing act: cooling the plastic solid without over-cooling it. The optimal temperature for the print is right around the glass point of the plastic: this is the temperature at which the plastic becomes fully solid and thermal contraction stresses start to accumulate. \n\nThe extruder pumps more heat into the print as it deposits molten plastic and radiates a little bit of heat. So we want to set the heatbed temp a little bit below the glass point to ensure the print is able to cool solid. Now, this gets a bit difficult, because everyone's print bed temperature sensor is different. What matters is bed surface temp. Many people have to set their bed temp quite a bit higher than the actual surface temp. It's just something you have to calibrate via print results. The exact filament glass point (Tg) also depends on the blend. \n\n\nABS: Tg is around 105C, optimal bed temp 95C in a warm, low-airflow environment\nPLA: Tg is around 55C, optimal bed temp is 55C in a cool, high-airflow environment because PLA holds heat and is slow to cool compared to other filaments\nPETG: Tg is around 70C, optimal bed temp is 60-70C with mild airflow\nNylon doesn't really work with these rules because it's semi-crystalline, meaning it \"\"freezes\"\" far above its Tg and thus starts accumulating warping stress at fairly high temps... advice varies wildly, from printing cold to 120C bed\nPC: Tg is around 150C, optimal bed temp is 130C\n\n\nThere are other schools of thought, for example printing the first layer onto a surface much hotter than Tg for good adhesion, and then dropping the bed temp to a value somewhat below Tg to allow the print to solidify. That works fine too. \n\nBut, with all that said, it's important to understand that the heatbed only keeps the bottom of the print warm. A centimeter up from the build plate, the print is typically much closer to ambient temp than it is to the bed temp. Heated build chambers are thus much more effective for large prints. But heatbeds are still quite effective, because they allow building a strong, warp-free foundation that resists warping stresses induced by the cooler zones higher up in the print. \n\",3.859531739127555,2.0769199823829045\n2637,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Beeblebrox,3.9045305118418514,6.0752928965490165,3.507933925167123,4.022883302450398,4.503257053771732,3.7272071097011072,Heated bed - what are the benefits? Why use one?,\"When using a heated bed with your printer, I have seen claims of running temperatures of 90c throughout the print.\n\nThat seems like a fairly high power use to keep a large slab of, say, aluminium at 90c for long print times (ie multiple hours).\n\nIs there a common 'sweet spot' for operating temperature?\n\nDoes it depend on material?\n\nIs a heated bed required?\n\",Pelle,\"Googling \"\"what temperature for different filaments\"\" gives a few good links, but the top link looks golden.\n\nhttps://filaments.ca/pages/temperature-guide\n\nThey have temperature guides for both extrusion temperatures and heated bed, as well as suggestions for better adhesion. I'm not that experienced, but their information is similar to information I've seen elsewhere.\n\nTheir suggestion for PLA is 215-235 degrees Celsius and a bed temperature of 60 to 80 degrees. That sounds a bit hot to me but every brand (and type) of filament will perform best at different temperatures. I've had problem getting nice bridges at 210 degrees, but had excellent results at 190.\n\nFor ABS they say 230 to 240 degrees with the bed at 80 to 100.\n\nUse these values as a starting point, when they fail you make an educated guess about what went wrong and adjust (one parameter at a time) til it works for you. Find a calibration object you like and trim the temperatures so it prints the best your printer can. At this point in the technology experimentation is a large part of making things work.\n\nOne thing that's important to remember is that the temperature that you set your bed to and the temperature that your bed gets to is not the same thing. Depending on the construction, assembly and quality of your heater the actual temperature can differ anything from almost nothing to twenty degrees or more.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n2643,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,hmader,2.528907649931287,3.3819507842569205,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,German RepRap NEO only heats to 130°C,\"I have a new German RepRap NEO 3D printer, and when I try heating the Extruder to 215°C with Repetier-Host Mac 1.0.1, it always stops at 130°C - does anybody have an idea what could be the reason?\n\",StarWind0,\"A few possiblitites.\n\nYou wire is too small. If your wire is HOT that is a fire hazard.\n\nYour thermistor is bad. Check with a high temp heat probe or try replacing thermistor.\n\nYour heating element is bad (rare).\n\nLast it could be a limit in your firmware. But that would surprise me.\n\nAny chance you have the bed and the hotend reversed? If you had the Bed as Hotend, then it would max out around 100. This last one I would say is most likely..\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2643,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,hmader,2.528907649931287,3.3819507842569205,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,German RepRap NEO only heats to 130°C,\"I have a new German RepRap NEO 3D printer, and when I try heating the Extruder to 215°C with Repetier-Host Mac 1.0.1, it always stops at 130°C - does anybody have an idea what could be the reason?\n\",TECTEC3 Studios,\"The most likely problem is that your thermistor is either broken or not screwed in correctly. If this is not the case you should either check look through your firmware for issues, or buy a new heater cartridge and thermistor.\n\",0.0,0.0\n2644,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dagert,2.528907649931287,5.139222978975312,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,First layer - not even infill,\"I'm using Repetier and Slic3r and it is printing a gap between the perimeter and infill on the first layer. \nAlso, the infill is lifting (as in photo).\nAny advise?\n\n \n\",StarWind0,\"You're not sticking to your bed. Adjust your bed height. You are too far.\nOtherwise you are going too fast and or too hot.\n\nCalibrate the bed. Reduce speed. Then adjust temps. \n\nAlso could be material contamination\n\nSee this link for a visual troubleshooting.\n\nhttp://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide\n\nhttp://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide\n\nIn addition use some gluestick. That will often solve these issues. Last but not least add a raft if it continues. Or just ignore it. My bet is temp is too hot. I also like to smash my first layer, but not everyone likes that technique as it causes elephant footing.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2644,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dagert,2.528907649931287,5.139222978975312,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,First layer - not even infill,\"I'm using Repetier and Slic3r and it is printing a gap between the perimeter and infill on the first layer. \nAlso, the infill is lifting (as in photo).\nAny advise?\n\n \n\",dagert,\"Okay, I found a solution that works for me.\n\nI have increased my first layer extrusion width to 250%, reduced the print speed of perimeters to 30mm/s, reduced the brim width to 1 and increased the infill/perimeter overlap to 30%.\n\nThis was PLA with off heat bed, printing on glass and used hairspray ad adhesive. Most of my settings were on default. (Repetier & Slic3r).\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2658,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Blunderboss,1.726248027126092,3.079570220207228,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Belt driven axis question,\"I'm currently attempting to make a repstrap using paper printed parts, like this guy : http://www.mariolukas.de/2012/05/repstrap-3d-drucker-aus-computerschrott-teil-1/\nI replaced the DC motor in a paper printer carriage assembly\n\nwith a stepper motor (NEMA17). But there was not enough space to fit the axis of the nema 17 at the exact spot of the older DC motor axis, in short, the axis are not in the same place. The question is : if the axis is not in the exact same spot, will it affect the movement of the carriage or not at all ?\n\nI supposed it would but i'm not sure since the carriage is limited in movement by the rails and that we still move the belt around.\n\",darth pixel,\"Axis should definitely be at proper position. Otherwise you will get at least 2 issues.\n\n\nCarriage will be pulled up which will cause stresses on rollers or slides and it will stress your belt\nThe way the carriage will go will change but because carriage itself is fixed then it will change the speed\n\n\n3D printing is a precise process. Both issues will have impact on printouts and all your printouts will have broken dimension in the axis in which carriage moves.\n\nHave a look on the picture (it is big to show details)\n\n\n\nfig A shows a situation where carriage is far from the axis\n\nIn such situation the distance between vertical line of black cross and pink circle is almost unnoticable so both - the force and the distance (so speed) change are very small.\n\nfig B shows a situation where carriage is relatively close to the axis\n\nThen both - the force and the distance change is noticable \n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n2658,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Blunderboss,1.726248027126092,3.079570220207228,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Belt driven axis question,\"I'm currently attempting to make a repstrap using paper printed parts, like this guy : http://www.mariolukas.de/2012/05/repstrap-3d-drucker-aus-computerschrott-teil-1/\nI replaced the DC motor in a paper printer carriage assembly\n\nwith a stepper motor (NEMA17). But there was not enough space to fit the axis of the nema 17 at the exact spot of the older DC motor axis, in short, the axis are not in the same place. The question is : if the axis is not in the exact same spot, will it affect the movement of the carriage or not at all ?\n\nI supposed it would but i'm not sure since the carriage is limited in movement by the rails and that we still move the belt around.\n\",spicetraders,\"A rotation of the stepper motor 90 degrees clockwise or counter-clockwise would move it more to the center. You would only need lengthen or shorten the belt.\n\",0.0,0.0\n2665,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Maxim Berezin,4.451824357011064,5.1240560893606135,3.507933925167123,6.681864532431616,4.503257053771732,2.429713639809771,What is the best 3D modeling software for a beginner on a 3D printed mini barrel project?,\"My goal is to 3D print a 5 liter miniature barrel with a side stand, similar to this wooden one on Amazon. I want it to have a removable top so that a boxed wine bladder may be put inside, and there should be a hole on the top as well so that the spigot may stick out and be used. I have no experience with 3D modeling or printing, but I have access to a public 3D printer at my local library. I know you can print parts individually (ex. curved wood-colored sides with staves and holes to interlock and make up the body of the barrel, the metal-colored hoops to go around the barrel). I don't know what software to use, though. I was thinking of starting to learn Blender? Would that be effective for this project? \n\",fred_dot_u,\"Your question begins in an inappropriate format for StackExchange, but you've ended it with one more appropriate by asking if Blender would work.\n\nIf you are willing to take the time to learn Blender, you are certain to discover that it will do as you require, and much much more. Your referenced model could be created using engineering-type design software such as Fusion 360 or SolidWorks or many of the free packages, but the free-form aspect is more suited to the flexibility of Blender.\n\nEven though Blender is not an engineering-type program, it has internal support for precise modeling. Should you learn to use those features, you get the best of both types of software.\n\nIf you construct your model in the software in segments/pieces as you suggest, your result will have greater flexibility at the printing stage, specifically with respect to color and filament choices. Instead of wood-colored sides, you can use wood-simulated PLA filament! Depending on the printer at the library, you could also use filamet, a filament containing 88 percent metal for the hoops.\n\nI use Blender for some aspects of modeling, often importing the STL into Meshmixer to address things I've not yet learned in Blender.\n\nI hope your reference to 5 liter is the original size and that your model will be a miniature of it. A 3d printer with 5 liter capacity would be a wonderful asset at the public library!\n\",3.859531739127555,2.0769199823829045\n2665,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Maxim Berezin,4.451824357011064,5.1240560893606135,3.507933925167123,6.681864532431616,4.503257053771732,2.429713639809771,What is the best 3D modeling software for a beginner on a 3D printed mini barrel project?,\"My goal is to 3D print a 5 liter miniature barrel with a side stand, similar to this wooden one on Amazon. I want it to have a removable top so that a boxed wine bladder may be put inside, and there should be a hole on the top as well so that the spigot may stick out and be used. I have no experience with 3D modeling or printing, but I have access to a public 3D printer at my local library. I know you can print parts individually (ex. curved wood-colored sides with staves and holes to interlock and make up the body of the barrel, the metal-colored hoops to go around the barrel). I don't know what software to use, though. I was thinking of starting to learn Blender? Would that be effective for this project? \n\",quasimod,\"I'm no expert, but have done some research on this question and it seems to me that Fusion 360 is currently your best bet. It's designed to do exactly what you're planning, from start to finish. Design (Sculpting and precision modeling), \nTest (fitting/animation analysis), and Fabricate (CAM and 3D printing) all wrapped into one program that has a logical workflow, and is WAY easier to learn than Blender. It's free for hobbyists and startups making less than $100K/yr. There are a bunch of free tutorials online, professionally produced by Autodesk. By the time you get through those, you should be able to complete your project.\n\n(Edit): I don't know anything about onshape.com. Like I said, I'm no expert.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2670,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,StarWind0,4.356564969431519,6.052868184051742,1.7539669625835614,5.646830619998737,4.240216107868139,3.6337541582048245,What is stopping us from mixing 3D filament colors in an Extruder?,\"This came up in one of my groups today. That we could not color bend, or mix 3d printing filaments. I have researched but I am not finding anything talking about Plastic mixing in an extruder.\n\nWhy is it that we cannot take say a Diamond hotend, or a hotend with 5+ inputs, and mix any color we want? (assuming all the same type, ABSm, PLA). I think it would be interesting to at the least get a gradient effect on prints.\n\nThe best I have seen is natural plastic and a marker system. Or a powder / advanced / out of hobbyist price range process that sprays ink. The only Color Bending I know of is with Recycled plastic that uses multi color. Not quite what I am looking for.\n\nThanks!\n\",darth pixel,\"I just started with google and phrase \"\"3d printing color mixing\"\" and on the first place (in fact first two were valueless adverts) I got this Instructables - DIY Full Color Mixing 3D Printer.\n\nHow it works?\n\nIt uses magenta / cyan / yellow filaments and mixes it while printing with Diamond hotend.\n\nIt definitely does what you are asking for and it's exactly the same idea you come up with ;)\n\nOverview\n\n\n \n Getting the controller board ready for three extruders... I hacked\n a RAMBo board to drive three extruders, however, you can use any board\n you want... (most people use a RUMBA due to it having all the\n pins/components needed for 3 extruders native on the board) \n Rewriting Repetier firmware to get color mixing working on your\n machine.\n How to install, configure, and use the diamond hotend - tips /\n tricks / lessons learned / etc...\n My original Bowden extruder design and various ways to mount the\n three extruders for your set-up\n My universal magnetic effector plate and accompanying hotend mounts\n for quickly swapping various hotends. (delta specific)\n How to design multi-color models and making STLs that can be\n exported and used as a individual STLs or combining them into an AMF\n file for slicing...\n Configuring color mixing in Repetier and Slic3r to print above\n mentioned multi-color models.\n Anything else I can think of later that I can't think of now.\n Comprehensive overview of Quantum Mechanical Entanglement as it\n pertains to multi-color printing (just kidding, I don't understand\n that... But I will cover multi-color printing throughly)\n \n\n\",3.6340916038470805,2.0769199823829045\n2670,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,StarWind0,4.356564969431519,6.052868184051742,1.7539669625835614,5.646830619998737,4.240216107868139,3.6337541582048245,What is stopping us from mixing 3D filament colors in an Extruder?,\"This came up in one of my groups today. That we could not color bend, or mix 3d printing filaments. I have researched but I am not finding anything talking about Plastic mixing in an extruder.\n\nWhy is it that we cannot take say a Diamond hotend, or a hotend with 5+ inputs, and mix any color we want? (assuming all the same type, ABSm, PLA). I think it would be interesting to at the least get a gradient effect on prints.\n\nThe best I have seen is natural plastic and a marker system. Or a powder / advanced / out of hobbyist price range process that sprays ink. The only Color Bending I know of is with Recycled plastic that uses multi color. Not quite what I am looking for.\n\nThanks!\n\",Ajay Kumar,\"If you clearly observe the geometry of the print it has printed in different colours .the part is designed in such a way that it has the small height gap between the each colour but we cannot seen this gap in one projection plane..\nWe can print only in direct drive extrusion .by changing the filament of different colours without pausing the print by immediately changing the material . It is printed in single nozzle. The above image clears your doubt.it is designed with different heights.\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8594,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,StarWind0,3.452496054252184,4.1156536529686205,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,3.929104701733314,3.9829738809469584,Best way to deal with Resin Printers in your living space,\"I know I did something stupid. I just had to have a SLA 3d printer. The issue being I live in a one bedroom apartment. In the months of owning it I have made lots of amazing pieces, I also for the first time in my life have not only allergies, but sever allergies. I thought I had the flu, and has been most of the last 2-3 months. After making the connection to the symptoms appearing after I got the printer, I sealed the resin vat and removed all cleaning station items from my living space. I had thought I had done \"\"enough\"\" by sealing the printers door, and making sure I could not smell any chemicals, and getting a chemical grade air filter. \n\nIt's been 2 days, and I'm instantly recovering from my symptoms, and have discontinued allergy medication. \n\nOther than not own this type of printer, what kind of setup do I need so that I can safely use this printer? Does anyone sell enclosures or setups for businesses or homes that will solve this issue? \n\nI can move the cleaning station to my balcony, as it also has a sink and space. Placing the printer even in an enclosure outside would be hard due to the humidity and extreme pollen we get here. \n\",fred_dot_u,\"One of the options you have would be to create a negative pressure in your working area. This would be accomplished by installing a fan with the flow direction to the outside. The inside portion of the fan should have ducting that terminates near your printer. You could place your printer in something elaborate, or in something as simple as a large cardboard box and attach the ducting to the box.\n\nAs the fan operates, air would be pulled from an open window elsewhere in the room and travel into the cardboard box. It would carry fumes from the printer to the fan and out of the building.\n\nI have a CO2 laser which generates large amounts of smoke. Part of the installation includes a powerful blower not placed in the window, but with ducting from the machine and to a panel in the window frame. I used scrap plastic to make a baffle that accepted the ducting while blocking the rest of the window.\n\n\n\nSquirrel-cage blowers provide powerful airflow but you may not need something as expensive as a laser cutter blower. A boat bilge blower might be sufficient to provide clearing airflow for your printer.\n\n\n\nAdditionally, a small bilge blower such as that shown above will use smaller diameter ducting, which would be easier to find and less expensive. The bilge blower in the picture provides for an in and out attachment, while the not-really-a-laser-cutter blower in the picture does not. A true laser cutter blower has ducting attachments for input and output.\n\nOne characteristic of this type of clearing system is that outside air will possibly change the temperature of the room/building. During the winter, the rest of my house got noticeably cooler while the exhaust fan was operating.\n\",3.367452517504837,0.0\n8594,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,StarWind0,3.452496054252184,4.1156536529686205,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,3.929104701733314,3.9829738809469584,Best way to deal with Resin Printers in your living space,\"I know I did something stupid. I just had to have a SLA 3d printer. The issue being I live in a one bedroom apartment. In the months of owning it I have made lots of amazing pieces, I also for the first time in my life have not only allergies, but sever allergies. I thought I had the flu, and has been most of the last 2-3 months. After making the connection to the symptoms appearing after I got the printer, I sealed the resin vat and removed all cleaning station items from my living space. I had thought I had done \"\"enough\"\" by sealing the printers door, and making sure I could not smell any chemicals, and getting a chemical grade air filter. \n\nIt's been 2 days, and I'm instantly recovering from my symptoms, and have discontinued allergy medication. \n\nOther than not own this type of printer, what kind of setup do I need so that I can safely use this printer? Does anyone sell enclosures or setups for businesses or homes that will solve this issue? \n\nI can move the cleaning station to my balcony, as it also has a sink and space. Placing the printer even in an enclosure outside would be hard due to the humidity and extreme pollen we get here. \n\",Trish,\"First things first: Resin is very aggressive. It can very easily make you hypersensitive, even to the fumes of it. So step 1 is easy:\n\nLimit exposure\n\nWear gloves when working with resin. As you live with your printer in the same room, bottle up the resin right after use and only open it during use to prevent buildup over time and exposure. To further reduce the exposure, leave the room while printing if possible and ventilate the room after bottling the resin again. Possibly even wear breathing protection during operation.\n\nEnclose and seal the machine\n\nTo keep the vapors away from you, the machine needs to be enclosed airtight. Any lids need to get a seal, non-opening joints of the frame need to be sealed with a sealant like silicone. Often it is hard to retrofit an enclosure to seal up the workspace.\n\nIf you want to enclose the full machine, I suggest using glass sheets and silicone sealant for the whole inside. Brace the construction from the outside with L-profiles along the corners and joints. The most tricky part will be the opening hatch and wiring/ducting access hole. The opening seal needs a sealing lid all around that gets compressed on closing the machine up and some kind of lock to keep it this way. The air filtration and wire access are just hard to make because of their circular shape. You might want to use a wooden or metal base plate, so it is best to put ventilation through the base. In case of wood, afterward coat the inside surface with a thin layer of an airtight material, such as epoxy resin or silicone.\n\nLow presssure operation by ventilating the machine\n\nThe next best thing to isolating the machine workspace from the air completely is to make it a low-pressure operation. This means that you evacuate the air from the machine. The imperfect seals now work against a high pressure outside and low pressure inside, meaning that the flow in any non-sealed spot only knows one direction: into the machine.\n\nVentilation outside...\n\nFred's answer provides good basics on how to do this in general by using parts for Laser evacuation. This is also the most space-economic way. \n\n...and filtering.\n\nBut there are (partial) indoor solutions even, based on ventilating the air from the printer into a multi-stage air filter could reduce or eliminate the amount of chemical exposure. This is not a slim piece of foam, it is a boxy setup with about 3 to 6 stages of filtering. Among dry-filters, a paint-filter in combination with an active coal one should eliminate a large portion of irritants from the stream, but might still need to be vented outside to reduce exposure even more. A 'wet' air filter, where the exhaust of the machine is pearled through a basin of a cleaning liquid (often water or a solvent like isopropylic alcohol) like in an aquarium could help to catch even more chemicals but is bulky.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n10742,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,StarWind0,2.1782824847157594,4.653886001616373,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,\"What are the effects of the elements on 3D printed objects made with \"\"infused\"\" PLA\",\"I came across a new Steel infused PLA from Colorfabb. On the store page someone had asked, what happens if it was exposed to water, would it rust. I am actually, not sure what would happen. I am interested what the effects of leaving in the elements a 3D printed object made of the 2 most common type of fused materials. \n\n\nWood Infill\nMetal Infill (not stainless steel)\n\n\nWould it be preserved by the PLA coating it, or would, over time, rust and dissolve? Would the wood last forever, or will the print get discolored and become mulch? \n\",0scar,\"If you use filaments filled with metal particles, some particles will be exposed to the environment. Depending on the corrosion resistance of those metals, yes the environmental conditions will weather the print object. So if it contains iron (and does not contain elements that prevent oxidation like used in stainless steel) and it is subjected to water and oxides, the print will rust. \n\nThis is e.g. also valid for copper filled filament, which you can polish to get a gold shine surface (removing the copper oxides), or bronze filled filament, that if correctly subjected to weathering environments, will give the looks of a very old statue. In both cases this implies that the metal particles have undergone a(n) (de-)oxidation process.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n10742,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,StarWind0,2.1782824847157594,4.653886001616373,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,\"What are the effects of the elements on 3D printed objects made with \"\"infused\"\" PLA\",\"I came across a new Steel infused PLA from Colorfabb. On the store page someone had asked, what happens if it was exposed to water, would it rust. I am actually, not sure what would happen. I am interested what the effects of leaving in the elements a 3D printed object made of the 2 most common type of fused materials. \n\n\nWood Infill\nMetal Infill (not stainless steel)\n\n\nWould it be preserved by the PLA coating it, or would, over time, rust and dissolve? Would the wood last forever, or will the print get discolored and become mulch? \n\",user77232,\"The particles on the outmost part of the print which are exposed to air will rust. The ones inside will still be protected somewhat by the PLA. The rust color/effect is part of the idea, since it give certain prints an old look.\n\n\n\nhttps://www.proto-pasta.com/products/magnetic-iron-pla\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n2673,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,aaaidan,3.267423727073639,5.004093180408811,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,1.5532602411371876,Can I repair my microwave with a PLA part?,\"The turntable support part in my microwave has broken. It is a three armed part, with small wheels at the end of each arm. \n\n\n\nI'm confident I could print a replacement, and reuse the existing wheels (since they can be removed). \n\nThe heat of the food would be unlikely to conduct through to the PLA, but I'm concerned that it might get heated up by the microwave radiation. I can't find any clear information online about whether PLA absorbs microwaves, or if it is in any other way unsuitable for this. \n\nWill this be a disaster, or should I give it a go?\n\",darth pixel,\"I would say PLA itself should not be heated up by microwave. It's because microwave oven creates oscilations which excites water particles (see microwave explanation here) so assuming PLA doesn't contain water, it won't heat up. (removed to not mislead as the water is not only material which heats up by microwaves. Thanx to Tom van der Zanden for being vigilant)\n\nBut as usual, it's more complicated.\n\nFirst. PLA can contain water as while producing it can be cooled down in water bath. Of course well made PLA will have as less water as possible as water has an influence on printing process.\n\nSecond. PLA is absorbing humidity so in fact it gets water inside right from the air. This unfortunately causes problems in microwave oven.\n\nWater can be overheated and oven can overheat water above 100C. But even at 100C, PLA will not be hard anymore so your 3 arm star would \"\"collapse\"\". Wheels could get oval or start sticking to their axis.\n\nEventually if high power is delivered to very \"\"wet\"\" PLA, I think it can... well maybe not explode but break.\n\nHere goes a test which shows it can be used to defrost things on PLA plate in microwave\n\nBut here Daan Snijders claims PLA gets soft in microwave during the test\n\nWill it be a disaster?\n\nIn my opinion it will work only for short uses of MW. Heating up a glass of milk or so. But for longer sessions when there will be much more heat (out of heating dish) it won't work.\n\nSHORT TEST\n\n\n20sec and 950W gives no effect on my sample (hotend cooling fan duct)\n40sec and 950W caused the sample became a bit warm\n\n\nInspite that it's not a good idea to run MW without \"\"proper-absorber\"\" this little test confirmes my suspisious - short sessions are ok.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n2673,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,aaaidan,3.267423727073639,5.004093180408811,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,1.5532602411371876,Can I repair my microwave with a PLA part?,\"The turntable support part in my microwave has broken. It is a three armed part, with small wheels at the end of each arm. \n\n\n\nI'm confident I could print a replacement, and reuse the existing wheels (since they can be removed). \n\nThe heat of the food would be unlikely to conduct through to the PLA, but I'm concerned that it might get heated up by the microwave radiation. I can't find any clear information online about whether PLA absorbs microwaves, or if it is in any other way unsuitable for this. \n\nWill this be a disaster, or should I give it a go?\n\",WarOrdos,\"There are Food Safe PLA filaments. These PLA filaments share similar qualities with ABS, in regards to temperature extremes et al. There are several on the market. (Eg. https://shop.germanreprap.com/en/pp-plastic-600g-3mm-black and http://www.formfutura.com/hdglass/ -- I've not used the HD glass personally but have been told it works well)\n\nWhen shopping for food safe PLA filaments check for the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) that comes with the filament. It will contain all the normal chemical warnings, some composition information, etc. but will also indicate if the material is Food and Drug Administration(FDA) approved.\n\nPLA, food safe or not, can also have bacterialogical issues--the material is pourous enough to allow for bacterial growth. I would suggest using a polyurethane to seal the printed part to limit bacterial growth.\n\nYou will need to check what sort of extruder you have on your pinter. Many brass extruders also contain lead which can leach into the printed product. Switch to a stainless steel print head to avoid this issue.\n\nGeneral care--warm soapy water and handwashing.\n\nI would not, as yet, recommend any printed product as a vessel for food--cup/bowl. This element is still somewhat new and I don't personally trust the materials for extended contact with food. (Knives/spoons et al. have much shorter contact with food vs. a plastic mug of hot coffee).\n\nFor your intended application, the piece in question would not come into direct contact with food to be consumed. As such, you should be fine with the correct filament.\n\",0.0,0.0\n2676,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jake Millington,3.0576060275493275,3.697472914088804,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,What should I think about if I want to design something modular?,\"For a while now, I have been thinking about designing things such as small bedside tables, game/dvd/bluray racks for 3d printing. I've always thought that making them modular would be a good way to go about doing this as well.\n\nModular design would help to create an end result that is vastly larger than the print volume of my 3d printer. I might even be able to recycle models for use in other projects. However, I'm not sure of what I need to think about if I decide to go ahead with these ideas I have floating around in my head.\n\nI'm assuming that certain joints (dovetail, etc), tolerances for different types of plastic due to shrinkage, and print settings (% infill, in particular) would be important to have thought about and evaluated to some extent, but I'm not sure about what else I might be missing.\n\nSo my question is to anyone who has designed anything to be modularly printed. Have you really had to think carefully about the engineering side of the print? Or am I simply overthinking this? Should I just design what I want and give it reasonable infill, walls and whatnot, and just go for a trial and error approach? I'm sure there is a method to this madness, but is a concrete understanding of this type of engineering absolutely paramount when it comes to this sort of stuff?\n\n\n\nEDIT: Although I've marked darth pixel's answer as accepted, I'm still going to follow JKEngineer's advise and check out that book as well since I feel as though proper engineering techniques alongside a good mentality towards how I would tackle the problem (as outlined in darth pixel's answer) would prove to yield better results in the long run.\n\",darth pixel,\"All printers are designed with an idea of WYSIWYG for sure. Depending on:\n\n\nprinter - type/quality/settings/configuration/assembly precission\nfilament - type/quality/shrinkage\nuser skills - manual/using app proficiency\nmodel complexity\nenvironment conditions and so on\n\n\nyou can get different results.\n\nI venture to say users know their printers (after some time and by trials and errors) so they know how to manage dimensions to compensate all above so you will get this knowledge too.\n\nMathematical formula can describe shrinkage of the material, all other elements are very hard to describe (mathematically) in a general way.\n\nOf course someone can simplify it and say: more money you spend better effects you'll get. It's sometimes true ;)\n\nSo all your modular things will be better and better if you will increase (what is to be increased) in above points especially \"\"user skills\"\".\n\nIs engineering paramount? It depends of whay you gonna create. If your modular things have to lock itself, have to have threads, screws and such stuff then this is engineering. Is it the most important part of the design? Not necessarily.\n\nI would say 3D printing moved engineering to next level. I'm talking about this or this. Is it still art or engineering? :)\n\nThis is my receipt:\n\nthink > imagine > design > rethink > redesign > give it a try > get back to thinking\n\ngood luck\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n2676,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jake Millington,3.0576060275493275,3.697472914088804,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,What should I think about if I want to design something modular?,\"For a while now, I have been thinking about designing things such as small bedside tables, game/dvd/bluray racks for 3d printing. I've always thought that making them modular would be a good way to go about doing this as well.\n\nModular design would help to create an end result that is vastly larger than the print volume of my 3d printer. I might even be able to recycle models for use in other projects. However, I'm not sure of what I need to think about if I decide to go ahead with these ideas I have floating around in my head.\n\nI'm assuming that certain joints (dovetail, etc), tolerances for different types of plastic due to shrinkage, and print settings (% infill, in particular) would be important to have thought about and evaluated to some extent, but I'm not sure about what else I might be missing.\n\nSo my question is to anyone who has designed anything to be modularly printed. Have you really had to think carefully about the engineering side of the print? Or am I simply overthinking this? Should I just design what I want and give it reasonable infill, walls and whatnot, and just go for a trial and error approach? I'm sure there is a method to this madness, but is a concrete understanding of this type of engineering absolutely paramount when it comes to this sort of stuff?\n\n\n\nEDIT: Although I've marked darth pixel's answer as accepted, I'm still going to follow JKEngineer's advise and check out that book as well since I feel as though proper engineering techniques alongside a good mentality towards how I would tackle the problem (as outlined in darth pixel's answer) would prove to yield better results in the long run.\n\",JKEngineer,\"A book you would benefit from reading is \"\"Functional Design for 3D Printing...Designing 3D Printed things for everyday use - 2nd Edition\"\" by Clifford Smyth. \n\nIt deals with FDM printing only. It deals with considerations of orientation of the parts being printed to address required strength in the 3 directions (x, y, z), tolerances, and designing parts in such a way that they can be assembled, have the strength needed, have flexibility, etc. In some instances he shows how to split a single functional part into multiple parts so that, when assembled, it actually performs as required. \n\nIt's available from Amazon at Book on Amazon. I received it as a present and have no commercial interest in it. \n\nHere's a review: Book Review on 3D Printing for Beginners\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n2678,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user3972,2.528907649931287,3.8943561620740414,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,What are the long term material properties of VeroWhitePlus 3D printer material?,\"I have been 3D printing parts with an Objet 30 Polyjet 3D printer for about a year now, primarily using Stratasys VeroWhitePlus UV cured model material. In general, the parts seem to become more brittle over time, which I assume is due to the parts continuing to cure due to exposure to light. However, I have also noticed that when exposed to moisture for extended periods of time the parts are prone to warping even under little strain at room temperature. \n\nI know that the material does display thermoplastic properties to some extent, but I was wondering if someone might be able to provide me with some additional information about the long-term material properties of either this particular material or similar UV cured 3D printed plastics. \n\nThe deformation of the parts in the presence of moisture, in particular, has me really confused, so any information about why this would occur would be greatly appreciated.\n\",Golightly,\"In our experience, the parts will continue to cure. I don't have the chemical science background to provide proof or evidence, but I operate from an assumption that if the part requires UV rays to cure, it will continue to be reactive to UV rays after it is considered \"\"cured\"\". \n\nI too have found the same brittleness over long periods of time. The only experience I have with the moisture issue would be a small component designed and built for a cable pulley in the tail section of an aircraft as a temporary solution (acting on a non-critical trim control surface). The aircraft is based down here in Houston, Texas where we get some pretty gnarly humidity. The part did begin warping after a few months but we don't have definitive information indicating it was a moisture problem, or something more structural. \n\nI do know however, that if you aren't absolutely meticulous about cleaning ALL of that gelatin-like support material off of the part, it does wind up being more susceptible to slight deformities, and when you DO remove it all thoroughly, it is then slightly more susceptible to the brittleness issue. Not sure if I'm the only one finding this, and apologies for not having the chemical background to provide more quantitative support.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n2693,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Merijn Den Houting,1.0891412423578797,4.222345137690479,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Filament is stuck in nozzle,\"I recently bought a Geeetech Prusa i3 x. After two full days assembling I can finaly try to print something. Having put in the filament into the extruder no filament actually came out of the nozzle. I opened up my extruder and the filament seems to be stuck in the nozzle.\n\n\n\nNote that I have tried heating the nozzle up and both pushed and pulled but no movement.\nDoes anyone know what to do?\n\nThanks,\nMerijn\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"There are a number of options you could try. If heating up the hotend does not work, you'll have to disassemble it. Remove the nozzle and the heatbreak (the threaded part). To disassemble the nozzle, you will need to heat it up and use pliers or wrenches to unscrew the parts.\n\n\nYou can use a blowtorch to melt and burn out the plastic that is stuck. Make sure to do this outside.\nYou can use solvents to dissolve the plastic. This works especially well with ABS, which can be dissolved in acetone. You can also try dissolving different plastics with acetone, but for example PLA does not really dissolve in acetone (it does become somewhat soft, so this can still be helpful towards getting it out). You could also try using other solvents if acetone does not work for your particular plastic, but consider these tend to be quite toxic compared to acetone so be careful. Note that in any case, the plastic will need to soak in the solvent for at least a few hours or overnight.\n\n\nDo not try to disassemble it while cold, the expansion and contraction of metal with heat makes this impossible. When reassembling, be sure to heat up the nozzle before giving it a final tightening (again, this is to make sure that when the nozzle expands as it is heated, it makes a tight seal).\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n2697,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Adrian,-1.726248027126092,4.7731791185469525,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,What is a good software for designing car parts,\"I am an absolute beginner when it comes to 3d printing. I want to get into the hobby by designing aero automotive parts such as fender flares, custom gauge and switch pods, lips etc. I've never taken a CAD course but I would say I'm proficient enough with computers as I work as a developer. My uncle is an architect and it seems like autocad might be something good to go with. What are some other good alternatives that allow accurate modeling down to millimeters and possibly breaking larger objects into smaller 3d printable pieces to mash together? \n\",fred_dot_u,\"You've avoided a number of attributes of a poor question by specifying your objective in detail, while also providing some indication of your experience. AutoCAD is not well known as being 3d printer friendly, although a skilled AutoCAD design user may be able to create acceptable models.\n\nOne could consider more organic modeling software such as Blender, although it works in reverse of my comment above. It's great for free-form model building but not so much for engineering type construction. Again, a competent Blender user can avail himself of the parametric aspects of the software, but it's more work than one would necessarily desire to engage.\n\nSolidWorks has a number of followers in the 3d modeling community. My experience with the software has shown me that it can be learned fairly quickly and is powerful enough to allow one to explode creatively over time.\n\nThe structure of Solidworks workflow fits in directly with your description, both to the reference to accurate modeling as well as the break-apart aspect. The construction of a model in SW is done via sketches and various actions performed on resultant objects created from those sketches. It's not free software, rather pricey, but it may also save you so much work as to pay for itself over time.\n\nThere are other options, of course, some of which are free to students and hobbyists. I did a quick Google search for \"\"free parametric 3d modeling software\"\" which resulted in this link:\n\nhttps://www.matterhackers.com/articles/finding-the-right-3d-modeling-software-for-you\n\nYou will find many suitable programs in the list generated from that link, as well as many that are unsuitable for the reasons mentioned previously.\n\nConsider also to view YouTube videos of your candidate selections. Most of the programs referenced will have tutorial videos which can give you a clearer idea of how well it fits your needs and perhaps how easily it can be understood.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n2701,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nikolay Zinov,3.0576060275493275,4.1173249062629225,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,Kossel accumulates error along Z axis,\"I have a Mini Kossel and I am going through calibration.\n\nI can home carriages and find the bed with paper-test getting some Z value with M114. Then I run the effector almost full height up and then down - and now Z value for the bed is greater!\n\nIf I repeat the process I get greater and greater values in paper-test. It seems that travel per step is different moving in different directions.\n\nHow can I fix that? I am using RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin firmware.\n\nUPDATE:\n\nZ values near bed after subsequent runs of five passes of G1 X100 G1 X10\n\n100% speed: 0.1 0.3 0.5 0.7 1.0\n\n 20% speed: 0.1 0.4 0.9 1.4 4.6 6.6\n\n300% speed: 0.0 0.7 1.0 1.3\n\n\",darth pixel,\"According to discussions in comments, I'm pretty sure the problem lies in too low current. \n\nPlease review this answer to How do you make sure you have the right voltage on the trimpots on a A4988 stepper driver?.\n\nWhy it happens?\n\nIf there is not enough current then motors can omit some steps as the stress is not equal while going up and down. Sometimes inertia can have higher influence than friction.\n\nAdditionally because the resistance/stress/friction on towers is different for sure then there are some issues in centering hotend.\n\nSo friction/inertia/assembly inaccuracy and current settings inaccuracy can cause such effects. If you are \"\"on the edge\"\" your printer may work well one day but the other day it can fail positioning. \n\nPlease refer to post mentioned above. Perform calibration and temperature test (finger test could be ok). I hope you'll manage the issue.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n2701,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nikolay Zinov,3.0576060275493275,4.1173249062629225,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,Kossel accumulates error along Z axis,\"I have a Mini Kossel and I am going through calibration.\n\nI can home carriages and find the bed with paper-test getting some Z value with M114. Then I run the effector almost full height up and then down - and now Z value for the bed is greater!\n\nIf I repeat the process I get greater and greater values in paper-test. It seems that travel per step is different moving in different directions.\n\nHow can I fix that? I am using RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin firmware.\n\nUPDATE:\n\nZ values near bed after subsequent runs of five passes of G1 X100 G1 X10\n\n100% speed: 0.1 0.3 0.5 0.7 1.0\n\n 20% speed: 0.1 0.4 0.9 1.4 4.6 6.6\n\n300% speed: 0.0 0.7 1.0 1.3\n\n\",Nikolay Zinov,\"After some more testing I checked that the problem shows up only on Z tower and is not related with current. Examining the tower I found very dumb mistake. Pulley on the motor didn't have a setscrew! Don't know how could I missed that. The fact that it could somehow run is even more amazing. Thanks @tom-van-der-zanden and @darthpixel for help. It is for sure that such synchronization failure could have been caused by current shortage as well.\n\nUPDATE:\n\nOh! Y tower pulley doesn't have setscrew as well! But it was running smoothly and in sync with X (which has that screw). Amazing. - UPDATE2. Not really. After closer look only Z tower misses the screw, which explains all.\n\nUPDATE3:\n\nAfter setting a srew into pulley the problem is completely gone!)\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n2702,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user4038,2.528907649931287,4.257234337324085,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Materials testing of 3D printed parts,\"What parameters are needed when preparing to model a 3D printed part in (ANSYS or Abaqus)?\n\nAre there specific tests?\n\nUpdate\n\nWe have been using FDM printing, with PLA. Our parts are for a quadcopter arm.\n\nI'm not worried immediately about having a strong part, I'm ultimately interested in modeling any 3D printed part. I think more important parameters are the printing parameters like bed temp, nozzle temp, layer height etc..\n\",plaintoothpaste,\"As with all AM related simulation existing FEM codes are not well suited to solving the material addition issue.\n\nIt is very hard for the codes you mentioned to simulate layer-by-layer and toolpath-by-toolpath material addition.\n\nThere has been significant research in AM simulation, most of it focuses on the metal additive manufacturing processes. The simulation of the entire build process with complex geometry and material addition almost never occurs due to computational cost. For example this work is one of the most sophiticated simulations developed and it is so computationally expensive that only a single laser scan was performed.\n\nIf what you actually want to achieve is stress/deformation of a FDM part then perform a structual analysis using anisotropic material properties that match that of your printed parts. I would assume that by now data for material properties of FDM parts with respect to machine parameters would be known at least for commonly implemented materials such as ABS and PC.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2703,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user4043,1.726248027126092,3.2764534681924653,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,What is needed to create dwg from drawing?,\"Does anyone know of an accurate method for building a dwg file from a scan of a scaled drawing or plan. The dwg files will also be referenced for or made into 3d models so pulling the information straight into a modelling software would work too if possible.\n\",darth pixel,\"It's not an easy task and according to my knowledge there is no way to do it fully automatic (I might be wrong of course).\n\nYou have options as follows:\nRead scans and\n\n\nrecreate it manually in CAD application\nrecreate it using digitizer (in the old days they had puck - kinda magnifier with crosslines to digitize from printouts/blueprints)\ncreate 3D object omitting 2D drawings\nconvert bitmap to vectors in 2D app\nuse scannig service like this (would be expensive)\n\n\nDepending on complexity of your schemas, the easiest way, would be option 1 or 3. Option 4 is very doubtful (even if it's the most automatic way, it won't create useful data)\n\nThe most of CAD apps have option to import bitmap and then work on such \"\"background\"\". For example in AutoCAD use command Imageattach\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n2708,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Electivo Zanotto Junior,2.528907649931287,4.0129394960221205,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Can anyone suggest what technology and 3D printing material is most suitable for printing of dental models?,\"I'm looking for a 3D printer for applications in the dental field, for printing digital dental models (not for itra-oral use parts).\n\nResolution and finish are the main requirements that we consider necessary.\n\nAny suggestion?\n\",Andrew,\"If resolution is your upmost concern then resin 3d printers are the way to go. They use a liquid resin that does not harden until a UV laser is shined through them. Apparently they get ultra high resolution and smooth finishes right out of the box. The downside is they are generally more expensive machines and the resin material itself is also a higher cost. but if you are in the dental field then money is not a problem. Look into resin 3d printers.\n\notherwise if you want to try FDM printers then try looking into .1mm brass nozzles which will increase resolution but vastly increase print time. Not sure what material would be best. ABS has toxic smelling fumes, but is the same as LEGOS and is able to be easily smoothed (if necessary) with Acetone fumes. PLA might work well at .1mm nozzle resolution though and is a starch/dextrin based non-toxic biodegradable filament.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n2708,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Electivo Zanotto Junior,2.528907649931287,4.0129394960221205,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Can anyone suggest what technology and 3D printing material is most suitable for printing of dental models?,\"I'm looking for a 3D printer for applications in the dental field, for printing digital dental models (not for itra-oral use parts).\n\nResolution and finish are the main requirements that we consider necessary.\n\nAny suggestion?\n\",42Z0GqNNz,\"As mentionned by Andrew, resins should do the trick : most commons processes are SLA and DLP (DLP is faster but more expensive).\n\n\nIf you aren't looking for precisions (or looking for low budget), FDM\nmachines should do the trick. \nIf you need metal, I think Solidscape or micro SLM should both work.\n\n\nYou should specify what are your exigences, it's not the same to do an ultra-high precision metal part and to have a $300 maximum-budget machine.\n\",0.0,0.0\n2736,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Electivo Zanotto Junior,2.528907649931287,5.697821132898972,3.507933925167123,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.9376260060201658,Conversion of DICOM files to STL files,\"Good morning everyone,\n\nI am developing a consulting job in a clinic of dental CT scans.\n\nThis work involves the development of administrative software, and preparing a routine for conversion of tomographic files in DICOM format to STL format. The files in STL format will be used for both visualization and analysis of 3D models, such as printing in 3D printers.\n\nOur problem is just the conversion DICOM to STL.\n\nHas anyone come across this kind of situation? We did not find any documentation or tool for this purpose in our searches and we are really with a gande urgency in the solution.\n\nAdvance grateful for any assistance.\n\",CT-Metrology,\"The marching cubes algorithm can convert voxel data into a surface mesh. A global threshold to determine the surface in the greyvalues is used. \nThis article might be helpful. \n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n2736,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Electivo Zanotto Junior,2.528907649931287,5.697821132898972,3.507933925167123,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.9376260060201658,Conversion of DICOM files to STL files,\"Good morning everyone,\n\nI am developing a consulting job in a clinic of dental CT scans.\n\nThis work involves the development of administrative software, and preparing a routine for conversion of tomographic files in DICOM format to STL format. The files in STL format will be used for both visualization and analysis of 3D models, such as printing in 3D printers.\n\nOur problem is just the conversion DICOM to STL.\n\nHas anyone come across this kind of situation? We did not find any documentation or tool for this purpose in our searches and we are really with a gande urgency in the solution.\n\nAdvance grateful for any assistance.\n\",SchwiftyPython,\"There is this software that should work: https://www.slicer.org/\n\nIf that doesn't cut it, I use this site to convert images to STL: http://www.online-convert.com/\n\nThey do have DICOM listed as a supported format, but whether it would convert correctly or not I can't say for sure. I've had varied results. \n\",0.0,0.0\n2709,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Florin Andrei,3.618048892289167,4.667468367930972,0.0,5.199501240805782,2.3655567426522146,1.6768776830577872,The work is now sticking too well to the bed - what to do?,\"I'm a beginner. I've a Printrbot Play with a heated bed add-on. I'm using it exclusively with PLA.\n\nIt worked great initially, but then I took the nozzle out and put it back in, and the Z calibration was lost (and I didn't know the calibration was a thing). As a result, I started having issues with the piece warping up and not sticking to the bed in the corners and around the edge, when the piece was large and flat.\n\nI've installed the heated bed. I used Kapton tape. All these made it perhaps a little better.\n\nFinally I started tweaking the Z axis calibration (the fine adjustment for the initial distance between nozzle and bed) and that made it perfect. No warping anymore.\n\nBut now I have the opposite problem. When printing pieces with large flat surfaces that are siting flush with the bed, it's next to impossible to tear it off at the end.\n\nI went back to using plain blue tape instead of Kapton, but it's still sticking too well to the bottom of the piece. I tried to pry it off by pushing a knife under the piece, but that has put a few scratches on the bed. Obviously I don't want to continue doing that.\n\nWhat can I do? How to prevent warping, while also making sure the piece does not stick too hard to whatever is underneath?\n\n\n\nEDIT: The accepted answer was very good and I don't want to mess with it by adding my own \"\"answer\"\". So here it is:\n\nI ended up adding a glass plate on top of the bed, with a heat conductive layer between bed and plate (it's a funny looking, rubbery, chewing-gum-y material that conducts heat). Now I just apply glue stick on the glass and print. Works great. Large pieces come off on their own sometimes if I let them cool down to 30 C or lower.\n\nI had some issues with the Z calibration sensor due to the plate, eventually got solved, but that would take too long to explain here.\n\",WarOrdos,\"I have only experienced PLA \"\"super sticking\"\" if the print bed is allowed to cool too much. I would suggest running a mild preheat to your bed when you find a print has stuck and the bed is cool. (What you set the temp to for the preheat would depend on the filament in question but start low and work up and you may find a sweet spot/release point for your particular PLA)\n\nI have never encountered PLA \"\"super sticking\"\" printed with rafts on (regardless of printbed temperature).\n\nRafts will give you a sacrifical grid of PLA between your actual finished piece and the bed itself. That way you can \"\"pry\"\" the printed object from the bed and have more leaway for increased leverage without damage to your actual piece(use a plastic razor blade common in cell/tablet screen replacement kits and you generally won't scratch your printbed/printbed coating/tape). The lattice/net of the raft would also, generally, have less, in contact with the printbed surface area than a finished piece and thus have less holding power.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n2709,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Florin Andrei,3.618048892289167,4.667468367930972,0.0,5.199501240805782,2.3655567426522146,1.6768776830577872,The work is now sticking too well to the bed - what to do?,\"I'm a beginner. I've a Printrbot Play with a heated bed add-on. I'm using it exclusively with PLA.\n\nIt worked great initially, but then I took the nozzle out and put it back in, and the Z calibration was lost (and I didn't know the calibration was a thing). As a result, I started having issues with the piece warping up and not sticking to the bed in the corners and around the edge, when the piece was large and flat.\n\nI've installed the heated bed. I used Kapton tape. All these made it perhaps a little better.\n\nFinally I started tweaking the Z axis calibration (the fine adjustment for the initial distance between nozzle and bed) and that made it perfect. No warping anymore.\n\nBut now I have the opposite problem. When printing pieces with large flat surfaces that are siting flush with the bed, it's next to impossible to tear it off at the end.\n\nI went back to using plain blue tape instead of Kapton, but it's still sticking too well to the bottom of the piece. I tried to pry it off by pushing a knife under the piece, but that has put a few scratches on the bed. Obviously I don't want to continue doing that.\n\nWhat can I do? How to prevent warping, while also making sure the piece does not stick too hard to whatever is underneath?\n\n\n\nEDIT: The accepted answer was very good and I don't want to mess with it by adding my own \"\"answer\"\". So here it is:\n\nI ended up adding a glass plate on top of the bed, with a heat conductive layer between bed and plate (it's a funny looking, rubbery, chewing-gum-y material that conducts heat). Now I just apply glue stick on the glass and print. Works great. Large pieces come off on their own sometimes if I let them cool down to 30 C or lower.\n\nI had some issues with the Z calibration sensor due to the plate, eventually got solved, but that would take too long to explain here.\n\",42Z0GqNNz,\"I suggest that you make a support not that much massive (this kind of problem is often cause of a massive part printed directly on the bed). You should place some easily destructible material between your part and the bed.\n\nI don't know your part, but even if you have a plane under it, don't stick it to the bed. Let a gap, like, 5 mm minimum, which you will fill up with support. Of course, your support must be something light.\n\nFor example, try to use the meshmixer supports (meshmixer is free) or some lattices supports if provided with your software's printer. As they're supports and not the part, you can destroy it more easily, without the preoccupation to save it, just caring about your bed.\n\nOf course, it depends on the amount your \"\"sticking\"\" problem, if small things are sticky too, this won't save you.\n\nFor non-used to supports people, support is often a solution to main deformations and sticking problems. Deformations because it dissipates the heat better, sticking because it's much less massive material to remove.\n\",0.0,0.0\n2717,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,MF1,3.0576060275493275,4.536084931540163,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Loss of extrusion in Stratasys FDM liquefier,\"I am running a Stratasys Dimension 768 SST, with a \"\"rebuilt\"\" extruder (dual setup includes support + model). This extruder, basically, follows the OEM design with exception to the tubing diameter (few mils smaller for rebuilt, although there is a generous inlet taper and/or bushing, larger than the filament diameter feed stock) and the way the tubing has thermal contact with extruder body and cartridge heaters. The OEM design, apparently, had some thermal epoxy to \"\"bed\"\" the 2 nozzle tubes, which are brazed into the nozzle tip block. The approach, I am using, is Al foil packing around the SS tubes, tight to the Al extruder body (still brazed connection to the nozzle tip block). I had no choice but to recondition the extruder, because of a breached nozzle tube. In any case, with a cleared out nozzle inlet to start each time, I do get transient extrusion at standard temperatures of 250 (support) and 280 (model ABS), and in an adjusted temperature range, with some preliminary experiments. I clear out the nozzle inlet with a metal pin, down to the tube bend (I don't get why the design had this problematic 90 deg bend radius close to the cold end, feed wheel!) For the support, the extrusion goes for about 5 secs, then slows down, and the support filament feed stock stalls and strips out the filament, turning it into white debris. For the model, the extrusion goes longer for about 20 secs, and also slows down, and, in this case, the model feed stock splits and gets fed outside the nozzle tube inlet, but no white debris in this case. This cycle may be repeated by cleaning out the inlet clogging with the stiff metal pin. \n\nI realize this is not a perfect description of the system, but I am hoping that someone who knows this extruder configuration or a similar one (system is quite old, unfortunately), may chime in here with suggestions. I will add, that I am running the system in a so-called maintenance mode and have some minimal adjustment of the firmware (like the hot end temperatures - defaults mentioned before) for the build mode (which is only during actual part run). \n\nThanks in advance for your help or suggestions!\n\nHere are some diagrams/link to descriptions for the extruder as well:\n\nMy exact extruder (i.e., head) system:\nhttp://www.amtekcompany.com/pdf/dimension_bst_sst_elite_768_head_clog_guide.pdf\n\nA similar extruder (showing heaters, extruder body to isolate model & support paths, tips, and thermocouples)\nhttps://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwifyLnJsu7OAhVIOCYKHaSIDLQQjRwIBw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.3dprintforums.com%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D2237&psig=AFQjCNGM1BTAiWzUn4fNJ8-z5HDWxa6OEQ&ust=1472824417165187\n\nThis site shows another user take apart/redesign the extruder in question (pay attention to the 90 deg bend in the nozzle tubes)\n(see attached picture)\n\nI also have a few documents: user manual, service manual, etc. that I may share, if I knew how to upload to this website.\n\",Jexoteric,\"This isn't a \"\"turn this knob and all will be well\"\" answer, because your machine setup sounds pretty unique to what most people will have experience with. Not being familiar with the older Stratasys printheads, but based on my overall experience with 3D printers, there are three things that could be an issue:\n\n\nThe nozzles are obstructed. The way you talk about clearing the jams of pushing a tool up through the nozzle end would not effectively clear a jam, it would only push the debris back into the print head, just waiting to be pushed by the plastic back into the nozzle. It could even be a piece of aluminum foil from the rebuild process. The typical way jams like this are cleared is to do a \"\"cold pull\"\" where you heat up the hot end just enough to be able to pull the plastic out, before it has really had a chance to liquify, hopefully trapping the debris in the plastic, then cut the end of the plastic off and reload. The 90 degree bend in their design may make this very hard if not impossible to do.\nHeat creep. The tubes are a slightly smaller diameter, and if heat is creeping up the print head and letting the filament expand in these tubes, it may be expanding enough that it will no longer move through the print head. Diagnose this by letting the printer jam, then cool off for a few hours. If you can print again for a short time period before it jams again, this may be your issue, where as an obstructed nozzle would not allow any more filament out. Either turn down your temps, or increase your cooling on the print head to address (or get the original size tubes if possible).\nPrint head temperatures too low for the print speed. The Stratasys Fortus 250mc I use runs ABS at about 300 degrees. Many of the reprap printers run even higher than this for ABS. The other thing to remember when ever you see people mention what temperatures they use, is that this is relative, and only a guide, as what the temperature reads at the thermocouple or thermistor is usually slightly off from the temperature that is melting the plastic based on heater location in relation to the plastic and thermistor. This can be diagnosed by printing until it jams, pause the print for something like 30 seconds to let the hot end melt more plastic, and then resume printing. If resumes proper printing this may be your issue (and it will jam again shortly if you do not adjust temps).\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n2725,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kathlyn,1.726248027126092,3.1237389567344533,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,3D printing forum community,\"Is there any forum where expert designers can help beginners like me?\n\nI am starting to design a panel for my car, and I am having some difficulties with finding a modeling program and using it.\n\",William Contestabile,\"See DesignSpark - DS Mechanical is good, free and fun to use. \n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n2729,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kathlyn,2.1782824847157594,3.9498466629958724,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Is this very large flat panel printable in ABS?,\"I am designing an part for my car. It is a panel for the rear door. I want to add it some cases for tools, but before going on, could you tell me:\n\nIt is a large flat panel, around 100cm by 35cm.\n\nIs it going to be suitable for printing in that ABS material? Is it too big?\n\n\n\",WarOrdos,\"ABS would be fine, as a material, for the application.\n\nThe problem, given the scale, would be the printing device used. I would suggest that you have the piece cut to spec for you using a polycarbonate. \n\nIf you have access to a workshop you could do so yourself if you set up proper fencing using a larger sized bandsaw(with a very fine toothed blade), had rollers to help support the size of your piece(as it would not fit on the tool's platform) and likely need a second set of hands to help control the outfeed. You would also need to drill access for the cut out then cut the perimetre.\n\nYou could also consider printing(ABS) in smaller sections then fusing each section together edge to edge(solvent welding of ABS is very strong and permanent), if you were really dead set on using a typical 3D printer for this. It would, in theory, be possible, but it would be very tedious. The adhesives, and cleaner, would be available from any plumbing supply and/or (home depot, lowes, walmart et al.). If you go this route be sure to have ample ventilation and plan your work space well in advance. I would not recommend this option but it is \"\"possible\"\".\n\nGiven the scale of the piece though, and for sake of accuracy, going to a shop with CNC equipment and using polycarbonate would be your best bet.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n2729,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kathlyn,2.1782824847157594,3.9498466629958724,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Is this very large flat panel printable in ABS?,\"I am designing an part for my car. It is a panel for the rear door. I want to add it some cases for tools, but before going on, could you tell me:\n\nIt is a large flat panel, around 100cm by 35cm.\n\nIs it going to be suitable for printing in that ABS material? Is it too big?\n\n\n\",Cash Lo,\"It is a huge part that would not fit in most 3D printers, do you have access to a 3D printer this big? Even if it does fit it will take a long time to print.\n\nConsidering it's a simple flat shape, maybe laser cut / CNC acrylic or wood would be better, as you will have a stronger part, and most likely faster and cheaper.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n2733,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user2913869,1.726248027126092,3.821221388659109,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,tips for pinching down onto an object,\"I was wondering if anyone could give me tips for designing a 3d printable structure that can \"\"pinch\"\" down onto a hockey puck shaped piece and hold it tightly. \n\nI'd like for the structure to normally want to \"\"pinch\"\" two edges together, but I can pry/force them open when I shove the hockey puck into it. Once I let go, the two ends are now holding the puck fairly tightly.\n\nMy first thought was something like a potato chip bag clip, but that would require a couple pieces and a spring.\n\nIs there a way to do something like this with one solid piece?\n\",darth pixel,\"Here are first 3 the most simplified and generalized options you have:\n\n\n\nAll you need now is to give use more details about your needs. If you reveal more details we could help you to apply (and modify) one of these options.\n\nEach of above has its own pros and cons of course. You said you don't want to have spring... so maybe a rubber ;)\nBut in fact whole-red is one-piece-clip in which the force comes from material elesticity or stiffness.\n\nPlease tell me what is the application of such clip.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n2733,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user2913869,1.726248027126092,3.821221388659109,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,tips for pinching down onto an object,\"I was wondering if anyone could give me tips for designing a 3d printable structure that can \"\"pinch\"\" down onto a hockey puck shaped piece and hold it tightly. \n\nI'd like for the structure to normally want to \"\"pinch\"\" two edges together, but I can pry/force them open when I shove the hockey puck into it. Once I let go, the two ends are now holding the puck fairly tightly.\n\nMy first thought was something like a potato chip bag clip, but that would require a couple pieces and a spring.\n\nIs there a way to do something like this with one solid piece?\n\",shlady,\"If you are looking for a solid piece, the red one darth pixel showed is the best. An important consideration for something like this is making sure that it is able to flex outwards around the puck without fracturing. In order to keep the stress low in the arms, you can reduce the stiffness by either:\n\n\nIncreasing the length of the arm\nDecreasing the thickness of the arm in the direction it deflects\n\n\nThis might be helpful in designing it to be printed. If your part breaks when inserting the puck, make the arms longer or thinner. If you aren't getting enough force, the in-plane thickness (coming out of your computer screen) can be thickened to your heart's content without changing the stress.\n\",0.0,0.0\n2737,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,MicroMachine,1.726248027126092,3.4818384141272243,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,File from Blender is different in Shapeways's preview,\"I am trying to print a model I designed in Blender on Shapeways.\n\nThe object has a hole in it:\n\n\n\nBut when I upload it to Shapeways as a STL file, fixed the sizes, but the hole is filled up in the preview window for the object in Shapeways:\n\n\n\nWhat could cause this? Will the model print properly?\n\n(I cannot share the model here).\n\",Memnarch1113,\"Double-check that your model is solid (i.e. watertight). Holes in the mesh, or (as other's mentioned in the comments) or problems with thickness can cause those issues. You can use Netfabb's Cloud Services, or download the free version of their app. There are other model repair services, too.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n2737,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,MicroMachine,1.726248027126092,3.4818384141272243,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,File from Blender is different in Shapeways's preview,\"I am trying to print a model I designed in Blender on Shapeways.\n\nThe object has a hole in it:\n\n\n\nBut when I upload it to Shapeways as a STL file, fixed the sizes, but the hole is filled up in the preview window for the object in Shapeways:\n\n\n\nWhat could cause this? Will the model print properly?\n\n(I cannot share the model here).\n\",reemaj,\"Just like the other already have mentioned, most likely your model has 3D printing errors. Either way, I would run it through a repairing service just to make sure it's free of 3D printing errors. I repair my models using this free automatic tool https://makeprintable.com/ \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2740,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user4134,3.0576060275493275,3.510789227224567,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,\"3D Printer seem to \"\"Forget\"\" Tool Path\",\"I've run into a strange error that keeps reoccurring my with my prints. Part way through the printing process, it appears that the printer \"\"Forgets\"\" the tool path and stops all together or starts to move in random patterns. It still extrudes material and the result is mess of wasted filament. \n\nAt first I thought this might be a levelling issue, but this does not appear to be the case. This only seems to occur on prints taking longer than maybe 2-3 hours. Does anyone have any idea whats going on and how to correct it?\n\nI am running an Ultimaker 2 Extended with using Cura for slicing. \n\",Tormod Haugene,\"I believe what you are experiencing is the stepper motors getting offset during the print, usually due to the nozzle colliding into the model (but possibly also due to very high printing speeds).\n\nBasically, the stepper motors used in most 3D printers will always make moves relative to their current position (as opposed to absolute positioning). In other words, the stepper will for example be told to move 10 steps left, regardless of where it is currently at. If you therefore forcefully move the printhead out of position during the print, the electronics will never know it happened, and continue with instructions that are no longer viable. \n\nIn order to fix this, do what you can to avoid the nozzle colliding into the model:\n\n\nMake sure your printer does not leave large deposits of filament, typically due to over extrusion or too close Z-leveling of the first layer.\nMake sure the model sticks to the bed, so that warped parts don't lift up, obstructing the toolpaths.\nAdd Z-lift in your slicer software, so that the printhead lifts slightly between travel moves.\nReduce travel speed (if it is set very high): the strength of stepper motors is lower at higher speeds, which means nozzle collisions at higher speeds most likely will offset the motors. \n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n2741,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,riccardo trevisan,3.618048892289167,4.030217835765849,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Ultimaker original X-axis not moving - possible electronics problem,\"I'm writing this question here hoping someone will be able to help me with the fixing process that I'm currently involved in!\n\nLast week during a printing session my Ultimaker original unexpectedly stop working. The problem was on the extruder step motor which push the filament from the back and literally is not moving anymore! The first thing I have done was to check if the motor was burn or something similar. So I swap the extruder motor with the X-axis one and it then worked fine. \n\nThen later the X-axis motor into the extruder connector and is not moving! so I decided to check the step driver and they seems to work all well. So the problem must be on the Arduino or on the motherboard! I bought new step driver a new step motor and new Arduino + motherboard, connected all up and nothing, still not working for the same reason! It is just the extruder motor that won't work anymore!\n\nDo you guys have some idea or tips to find out what the problem can be or how can be fixed in alternative ways? Your help will be much appreciated and looking forward for some answers.\n\",Chris Thompson,\"Your title says \"\"x-axis\"\" but your description leads me to think that your extruder is the part that's not working. Here are some tips which may (or may not) help...\n\n\nMake sure your extruder is not clogged.\nMake sure your temperature setting is high enough to allow the filament to melt quickly enough to support your print speed. If your extruder stepper is getting very hot, you may be pushing it too hard. Modern stepper drivers have various protections that will cause them to shut down in this situation. (Over current or thermal shutdown being the most likely in this case)\nIf you swap stepper motors and swap stepper drivers and the issue stays with your extruder, look for other things that you haven't swapped. \nYou haven't swapped the extruder, so the problem could be there as I mentioned above. \nIf you haven't swapped wires, the problem could be there...I've struggled through troubleshooting many times because of intermittent connections in wires. Since 3d printers have moving wires, this is a prime suspect in older machines.\nRule out all of the easy and cheap stuff before you conclude that it must be the main board...it could be, but it's probably not.\nSeek help in the Ultimaker forums or with their technical support. Printers, like cars, tend to have certain things that are more prone to failure as the machines get old and worn. The Ultimaker techs will know these things and can help you pin down your issue.\n\n\nGood luck! I hope you solve your issue and that this answer is helpful. :-)\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2741,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,riccardo trevisan,3.618048892289167,4.030217835765849,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Ultimaker original X-axis not moving - possible electronics problem,\"I'm writing this question here hoping someone will be able to help me with the fixing process that I'm currently involved in!\n\nLast week during a printing session my Ultimaker original unexpectedly stop working. The problem was on the extruder step motor which push the filament from the back and literally is not moving anymore! The first thing I have done was to check if the motor was burn or something similar. So I swap the extruder motor with the X-axis one and it then worked fine. \n\nThen later the X-axis motor into the extruder connector and is not moving! so I decided to check the step driver and they seems to work all well. So the problem must be on the Arduino or on the motherboard! I bought new step driver a new step motor and new Arduino + motherboard, connected all up and nothing, still not working for the same reason! It is just the extruder motor that won't work anymore!\n\nDo you guys have some idea or tips to find out what the problem can be or how can be fixed in alternative ways? Your help will be much appreciated and looking forward for some answers.\n\",user67339,\"I'm not sure I know exactly what is wrong or what steps you've taken so far, but it seems like your extruder motor is broken and you've narrowed the problem down to electronics.\n\nIf so, replacing the Arduino, motor, and driver leaves only the Ultimaker PCB as the source of the problem. I would suggest ordering another - but not until you've contacted Ultimaker with the problem you're outlining here.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n2745,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kalu1,3.0576060275493275,3.7869293891806497,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,G-code firmware for handheld plotter (Arduino),\"I'd like to build a plotter to work without a PC (power supply by battery).\nPlotter will write only several numbers on a card (really short G-code).\n\nDo you know any firmware, which can be easily modified for this reason?\nOr do you know G-code library which could be easily implemented into my stepper controller in Arduino?\n\nMy plan is to use Repetier (printing from SD), but I prefer to print without SD.\nRepetier is also too big, there are a lot of functions that I don't need. \n\",Chris Thompson,\"Your question may be useful to people interested in 3d printing (the purpose of this SE Site) so, even though you're not asking a 3d printing question per se, I think this answer will be helpful...\n\nGRBL:\n\nGRBL is a well known and mature g-code interpreter that will run on an Arduino Uno and is free and open source. Check it out here.\n\nI hope this helps! :-)\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n2772,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kimmy P. Rint,3.0576060275493275,4.889474267905391,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,1.3276579603156529,How to debond cyanoacrylate glue from pla,\"I have used cyanoacrylate glue aka superglue to bond PLA. I have created several electronics enclosures. (Definitely the most time-consuming part of the project.)\n\nNow my question is which debonder/solvent can I use to separate the pieces again without destroying the PLA parts?\n\nWikipedia proposes the following:\n\n\nnitromethane\ndimethyl sulfoxide,\nmethylene chloride,\ngamma-Butyrolactone.\n\n\",Karl,\"Acetone\n\nAcetone will dissolve cynoacrylate (superglue) and should weaken it enough to be able to separate the parts.\nA readily available cheap source of acetone is nail varnish remover (just make sure you don't buy the acetone free version!).\nGive the pieces a soak in nail varnish remover for 10-20 minutes and they should come apart with some prying.\nAcetone does not dissolve PLA, so the PLA parts should be undamaged. If you were to try this on ABS parts however, they would begin to dissolve.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n2772,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kimmy P. Rint,3.0576060275493275,4.889474267905391,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,1.3276579603156529,How to debond cyanoacrylate glue from pla,\"I have used cyanoacrylate glue aka superglue to bond PLA. I have created several electronics enclosures. (Definitely the most time-consuming part of the project.)\n\nNow my question is which debonder/solvent can I use to separate the pieces again without destroying the PLA parts?\n\nWikipedia proposes the following:\n\n\nnitromethane\ndimethyl sulfoxide,\nmethylene chloride,\ngamma-Butyrolactone.\n\n\",Jeanne,\"Gamma butyrolactone is by far the best product to remove cyanoacrylate and also great to dissolve PLA.\n\",-1.6066831703607938,0.0\n2774,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kuroro,2.528907649931287,4.933913029247292,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Which is the best 3D printer to print bodies scanned?,\"I want to print people's bodies scanned (or get 'minimes', see the Figure 1). And I watched that the printer 'project 660' is very good to do this (Figure 1). But, the price of that printer is really expensive, roughly $60'000. And If you want to get a 'minime' printed by that printer, the cost is $230 for a model of 10cm. For me that price is expensive too. \n\nDoes anyone know what printer I could use in order to print 'minimes' with:\n\n\nGood resolution, or details of the person's face (for a model of 10cm) and a good smooth surface of the model printed (Figure 1).\nAbility to print complex models such as bodies (Figure 1) without problem.\nInexpensive: less than $150 per 'minime'.\nAn option to print in color.\n\n\nThanks.\n\nFigure 1: Models printed \n\n\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"I do not think there exists a printer that meets your requirements. \"\"Cheap\"\"/hobbyist printers roughly fall into two categories:\n\n\nFDM: does not meet your requirement for sufficient detail and smooth surfaces in the face (and can not print in color).\nSLA: meets your requirement for detail in the face but can not print in color. If you are willing to drop the color requirement, this would be a good choice.\n\n\nThere are some hobbyist projects to do full color printing, but they are in a rather early stage. One option is colorpod that can be used to convert an FDM printer (such as the Ultimaker, but the principle works with any printer) however it is in a rather early stage of development and not very reliable yet. Another option is Plan B but that is a DIY project and not available for purchase (and is not very mature either).\n\nThat leaves you with the commercial color options. You've already ruled out the 3D systems/projet machines. Another (slightly cheaper) commercial option is MCOR IRIS but it also runs in the tens of thousands. While researching this question I stumbled upon 3D Pandoras but it seems a relatively new company so it may turn out to be a literal Pandora's box (they mention \"\"most affordable filaments\"\" as one of the advantages of their printer even though it doesn't use filament at all) - and prices are not listed on their website.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n2775,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Aaron Knudtson,1.726248027126092,3.636240664748639,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,What is the strongest filament to use?,\"I'm looking for a strong filament that can handle a large tension load and no bending deformation when a perpendicular force is applied to it. Any suggestions?\n\",Memnarch1113,\"As far as I know, Nylon filaments are among the strongest. I'd look at the technical specs of Taulman3D's Filament. They're the only nylon I've ever tried, and I know they have in-depth specs of how their filament holds up. I'm sure you can find other providers, though.\n\",0.0,0.0\n2775,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Aaron Knudtson,1.726248027126092,3.636240664748639,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,What is the strongest filament to use?,\"I'm looking for a strong filament that can handle a large tension load and no bending deformation when a perpendicular force is applied to it. Any suggestions?\n\",RoboKaren,\"Carbon or glass fiber reinforced PLA likely has the strongest without deformation. PLA will snap before deforming.\n\nFiber reinforced ABS is also an option. ABS is stronger but will bend before breaking. \n\nBoth are hard on nozzles and may require a stainless steel nozzle.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n2778,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Snickers,2.1782824847157594,4.748408453181592,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,12v 25A 300x300 Heater bed Mosfet,\"I'm building a 3D printer from scratch (My first one, so yeah, tall order), so I'm buying all the parts separately, now one of the things I bought was a 300x300 12v 25A Silicon heaterbed (Yeah, I know, should have gone for a higher voltage, but that's the only one I could get at the time)\n\nI have a RAMPS 1.4 board in all it's crappy MOSFET glory, so I tried giving my math skills a shot in trying to find a decent MOSFET that won't explode, though I'm still having issues deciding. And due to where I live, getting anything very specific is not the easiest thing to do.\n\nSo can anyone recommend a MOSFET that I can use to switch 25A and mention if it will need a heatsink?\n\nI live in South Africa, So one place that I can get them from is from RABTRON Electronincs\n\nThere are a couple other places, but I'd prefer to get them here if I can.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"I have looked over the 20 or so most expensive MOSFETs in that shop, and none are suitable.\n\nIt might be easier to go with a DC Solid State Relay rather than a bare MOSFET.\n\nIf you do want to go with a bare MOSFET instead, a TO-220 package MOSFET can dissipate around 1W without a heatsink, and around 3-4W with one. For 25A of current, that means the resistance of the MOSFET can be at most 1.6mΩ (without heatsink) or 5.6mΩ (with heatsink).\n\nThe IRLB3034 might be suitable. It is readily available on ebay (for under $1 shipped). 195A, 40V and an Rds(on) of only 1.4mΩ. A caveat is that this resistance is specified at a gate voltage of 10V, whereas it is slightly higher at lower gate voltages (1.6mΩ-2.0mΩ at 4.5V). This is on the upper edge of what is acceptable without a heatsink, but should still work (junction to ambient resistance is 62C/W, so in the worst case of 2.0mΩ the temperature would get to 77C above ambient - the MOSFET is rated for operation up to 175C). With a heatsink it will definitely work well.\n\nNote that the gate charge is much higher (10x) than that of the MOSFET used on RAMPs so you should use a low switching frequency.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n10786,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Snickers,1.726248027126092,2.4894835185571664,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,RAMPS 1.4 Stepper's not getting a good signal,\"Running on the Marlin 1.1 firmware, for this issue, most other variables of the printer can just be assumed (It's a CoreXY design, but think i3 for my current testing). (Highlighted my only lead in bold, so probably best to read that first)\n\nThe problem:\nX-axis stepper driver and motor moves fine, all other axis's don't.\n\nWhat I've tried and deduced.\n\n\nI've inverted all endstops and ruled out end stop errors, as well as any warnings that get reported through serial.\nSwapped stepper drivers from the Y axis (just focusing on the Y axis for now) to the X axis, the X axis is still the only one that moves.\nSwapped the X and Y axis motors: only the Y axis motor works, so still only getting powered from the X axis driver\nTested power on the stepper drivers, all stepper drivers get the same motor and logic power within margin of error\nTested step signal on the Y axis with an oscilloscope, found my only lead, when moving the X-axis, the step control has a peak voltage of ~5.2v and the motor moves. When testing the Y axis, the step input voltage from the Arduino to the driver has a peak of ~1.7v\nAssuming something may be wrong with the connection, I tested the resistance between all step pins from the Arduino side to the stepper driver itself and got a constant resistance of 2.5 ohms for all drivers, pins are connected properly.\nPulled the Arduino out, uploaded and ran a custom servo script on it, using pin A6 as the PWM control signal. Server runs fine with the correct voltage (ruled out a microcontroller issue).\nReassembled the RAMPS, motors etc, reuploaded a fresh copy of Marlin from their site that I configured from scratch and did some extra probing around to make sure all the connects are fine, still, only the X-axis works.\n\n\",Snickers,\"Turns out there were multiple faulty stepper drivers, if the one stepper driver was plugged in, it would operate, but would draw too much current from the pins on the Arduino causing all the other drivers to receive weak signals.\n\nThis is why swapping them around still only worked on the X-axis, if it was only one driver, I would have figured it out.\n\nSo if you get a very weak signal on the stepper driver step pin, even when it's pulled out, it's probably because of one of the other stepper drivers shorting the whole rail.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2789,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Aaron Cofield,3.452496054252184,4.828500074093133,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,M3D Micro printer stops extruding but is not clogged,\"I have an M3D Micro 3D printer that printed fine for a couple of weeks and then was plagued with issues afterward. I've done the fixes from the forum to get proper heating and cooling of the nozzle (I've added aluminum foil around the nozzle to make sure the hotend is fit snug against the nozzle and I've added an external fan, powered externally, to compensate for heat creep).\n\nThis works very well for short prints and it usually finishes successfully. When I do a longer print it always stops midway and usually at the same exact point. \n\nI tried printing at 200 °C with black PLA and then again at 215 °C with the same filament and it stops at the same exact point. I also tried M3D brand white filament. I am using CURA slicer with Octoprint GCODE sender and M3D Fio.\n\nI know it is not clogged because if I stop the print and press extrude without letting it cool down, it extrudes fine. \n\nWhat is causing my printer to stop printing?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Placing this suggestion as an answer, because all information appears to point to the slicer software and/or the operating system. Consider to use alternative methods of slicing and sending the model, such as the previously mentioned Craftware or other free slicers, such as Slic3r - both of which have Linux versions. If, as you suggest, your firmware is so tied down that it won't run alternate versions without re-flashing, that would be your next step. Unfetter yourself from the limitations of the current suspect software.\n\nIf you are able to use other slicers and discover that the problem remains, the re-flashing of the firmware is likely the only solution.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2789,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Aaron Cofield,3.452496054252184,4.828500074093133,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,M3D Micro printer stops extruding but is not clogged,\"I have an M3D Micro 3D printer that printed fine for a couple of weeks and then was plagued with issues afterward. I've done the fixes from the forum to get proper heating and cooling of the nozzle (I've added aluminum foil around the nozzle to make sure the hotend is fit snug against the nozzle and I've added an external fan, powered externally, to compensate for heat creep).\n\nThis works very well for short prints and it usually finishes successfully. When I do a longer print it always stops midway and usually at the same exact point. \n\nI tried printing at 200 °C with black PLA and then again at 215 °C with the same filament and it stops at the same exact point. I also tried M3D brand white filament. I am using CURA slicer with Octoprint GCODE sender and M3D Fio.\n\nI know it is not clogged because if I stop the print and press extrude without letting it cool down, it extrudes fine. \n\nWhat is causing my printer to stop printing?\n\",Golightly,\"I'm not sure how similar the two systems are, but I use a Stratasys uPrint SE Plus and I've run into a similar problem. \n\nThere are two rollers in the head that pull the filament through to the extruder nozzle, and in one instance they appeared to have heated up, melted the filament enough to create two \"\"indentions\"\" on either side of the filament, making it such that the rollers had no purchase on the filament itself. There was never any clog, no material feed error, but it was still failing to print. Wound up having to replace the head altogether.\n\nAgain, not sure how similar the extrusion mechanics are in the M3D, but suggest checking the components that actually advance the filament, and the filament itself.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n2996,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Aaron Cofield,3.452496054252184,5.870662012473812,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Endstops will not trigger using Marlin Firmware,\"I have an old Solidoodle 2 that I bought broken from a garage sale that I am converting to use RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin Firmware. All the motors work correctly, I am just having issues getting the endstops to work. \n\nI am using a regular limit switch with NC going to the signal pin and the other to ground. I have this switch plugged into first header column for X-min. My endstop configuration is currently:\n\n//=========================================================================== \n//============================== Endstop Settings ===========================\n//===========================================================================\n\n// @section homing\n\n// Specify here all the endstop connectors that are connected to any endstop or probe.\n// Almost all printers will be using one per axis. Probes will use one or more of the\n// extra connectors. Leave undefined any used for non-endstop and non-probe purposes.\n#define USE_XMIN_PLUG true\n#define USE_YMIN_PLUG true\n#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG true\n//#define USE_XMAX_PLUG false\n//#define USE_YMAX_PLUG false\n//#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG false\n\n// coarse Endstop Settings\n#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors\n\n#if DISABLED(ENDSTOPPULLUPS)\n // fine endstop settings: Individual pullups. will be ignored if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN_PROBE\n#endif\n\n// Mechanical endstop with COM to ground and NC to Signal uses \"\"false\"\" here (most common setup).\n#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n#define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n#define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n#define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n#define Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n\n\nI have X-min enabled and inverted. When I send an M119 (endstop status code) I recieve:\n\nSend: M119\nRecv: Reporting endstop status\nRecv: x_min: open\nRecv: y_min: TRIGGERED\nRecv: z_min: TRIGGERED\n\n\nAnd then when I press down the X endstop with my hand I get:\n\nSend: M119\nRecv: Reporting endstop status\nRecv: x_min: open\nRecv: y_min: TRIGGERED\nRecv: z_min: TRIGGERED\n\n\n-No change. There is no mechanical failure with the switches, I've tested it with a continuity tester. I have even shorted the signal and ground pins on the Ramps board with a jumper wire and I still haven't seen any change.\n\nWhere is the fault at?\n\",SteveP,\"try uncommenting the following lines to enable endstop detection on all pins for troubleshooting.\n\n//#define USE_XMAX_PLUG false\n//#define USE_YMAX_PLUG false\n//#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG false\n\n\nThis way the M119 will show any changes.\n\nThe only thing I can think of is that either the switch is plugged into the wrong pin on the ramps board (Max instead of Min) or the switch doesn't require the pullup (your could try commenting that back as a second test as well)\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n2790,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,bvdb,3.0576060275493275,4.020672661736004,0.0,3.1880595895805834,4.240216107868139,3.9829738809469584,What parts are strictly necessary for a 3D printer?,\"I've built the mechanics of my 3D printer myself, because I need to print parts that are really huge, (and for budget reasons). So, I already have the 3D movement functionality.\n\nBut what I need now, is the printing mechanism itself. I've been reading a lot, but it became clear to me that things are more complicated than I thought. \n\nLet's skip mechanics and software, I'm just interested in how the print head works. Can somebody explain me that?\n\nTo be honest, I was so naive that I thought that I just had to buy one part with one data wire (print/noprint) and the 5 V/GND wires. But it came to my intension that things are way more complicated. \n\nFor example, these RepRap printers have some kind of air tube attached to the print head. I'm not sure what that's all about, is it cooling?\n\nPerhaps I'm always reading the wrong manuals (i.e. the more advanced ones). Can somebody enlighten me or point me to a good starting point?\n\",kamuro,\"The first point to start would be the RepRap wiki entry for extruders:\n\n\n cold end\n \n The \"\"Cold End\"\" is usually the bulk of the extruder. It is\n often the actual carriage on one axis and supports the rest of the\n parts. In some designs, the \"\"Cold End\"\" is split into two parts; one\n part does the driving of the filament that is stationary and connected\n to the carriage portion, of a lighter weight design for easier\n movement, with a flexible tube. The drive is a motor that rotates a\n knurled, hobbed, or toothed pinch wheel against a pressure plate or\n bearing with the filament forced between them. Usually, the motor is\n geared to the pinch wheel to increase available torque and extrusion\n control (smoothness). The gearing can be a 3D printed pinion and gear,\n stock worm wheel and gear, or a more expensive integral motor gearbox.\n Stepper motors are used almost universally after initial trials with\n DC motors did not achieve the required repeatability. Servo motors are\n an option, though they are not seen in the literature yet. The final\n function, some form of cooling, keeps the \"\"Cold End\"\" cold. With the\n close proximity to the \"\"Hot End\"\" and possible heated build platforms\n and enclosures, it is sometimes necessary to have additional passive\n or active cooling of the cold end parts. Heat sinks and fans are often\n used; water and Peltier effect cooling is also discussed. Much of this\n bulk is usually made from 3D printed parts and the temperature is\n maintained within safe limits. \n \n hot end attachment\n \n The \"\"Cold End\"\" is\n connected to the \"\"Hot End\"\" across a thermal break or insulator (the\n Bowden tube if used is on the cold side of this thermal break). This\n has to be rigid and accurate enough to reliably pass the filament from\n one side to the other, but still prevent much of the heat transfer.\n The materials of choice are usually PEEK plastic with PTFE liners or\n PTFE with stainless steel mechanical supports or a combination of all\n three. A Hot End is frequently joined to the Cold End using a Groove\n Mount where the thermal break or insulator is part of the Hot End\n assembly and the Cold End body is provisioned with a cylindrical\n recess. Many cold ends push the filament out a large hole centered\n between 2 small holes about 50 mm apart. (Is there a name for this\n de-facto standard?) Some people rigidly attach a groove mount hot end\n to such a cold end with the mounting plate adapter and two short\n bolts. A few people put 2 long bolts through those holes and then put\n a spring around those bolts to make a spring extruder. \n \n hot end\n \n The\n \"\"Hot End\"\" is the active part of the 3D printer that melts the\n filament. It allows the molten plastic to exit from the small nozzle\n to form a thin and tacky bead of plastic that will adhere to the\n material it is laid on. The first RepRap hot end was made of brass.\n Researchers have also made hot ends from glass or aluminium. The hot\n end consists of a melting zone or chamber with two holes. The cold end\n forces the filament into the hot end -- into the heating chamber of\n the hot end -- through one hole. The molten plastic exits the heating\n chamber through the other hole at the tip. The hole in the tip\n (nozzle) has a diameter of between 0.3mm and 1.0mm with typical size\n of 0.5mm with present generation extruders. Outside the tip of the\n barrel is a heating means, either a wire element or a standard wire\n wound resistor. The heat required is of the order of 20W with typical\n temperatures around 150 to 250 degrees Centigrade. For feedback\n control of the nozzle temperature, a thermistor is usually attached\n close to the nozzle, though a thermocouple may serve with suitable\n control hardware. High temperature materials are needed here. These\n include metals, cements and glues, glass and mineral fibre materials,\n PEEK, PTFE and Kapton tape. \n \n mount to rest of machine\n \n The ways\n extruders are mounted on the rest of the machine have evolved over\n time into informal mounting standards. These informal standards\n include the Vertical X Axis Standard, the Quick-fit extruder mount,\n the OpenX mount, etc. Such de-facto standards allows new extruder\n designs to be tested on existing printer frames, and new printer frame\n designs to use existing extruders. (Does the \"\"greg-adapter.scad\"\"\n adapter in the Prusa i3 Build Manual let me mount an OpenX extruder on\n a Vertical X Axis machine?)\n\n\nYou can also google for extruder and/or hotend in combination with 3d printing for a first starting point.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n2790,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,bvdb,3.0576060275493275,4.020672661736004,0.0,3.1880595895805834,4.240216107868139,3.9829738809469584,What parts are strictly necessary for a 3D printer?,\"I've built the mechanics of my 3D printer myself, because I need to print parts that are really huge, (and for budget reasons). So, I already have the 3D movement functionality.\n\nBut what I need now, is the printing mechanism itself. I've been reading a lot, but it became clear to me that things are more complicated than I thought. \n\nLet's skip mechanics and software, I'm just interested in how the print head works. Can somebody explain me that?\n\nTo be honest, I was so naive that I thought that I just had to buy one part with one data wire (print/noprint) and the 5 V/GND wires. But it came to my intension that things are way more complicated. \n\nFor example, these RepRap printers have some kind of air tube attached to the print head. I'm not sure what that's all about, is it cooling?\n\nPerhaps I'm always reading the wrong manuals (i.e. the more advanced ones). Can somebody enlighten me or point me to a good starting point?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"You will certainly find that the print functionality of a 3d printer is a bit more complex than you suggest. The mechanical portions include a means to push the filament into a heated nozzle as well as the software portion to regulate the speed of the filament movement. You haven't referenced the heater cartridge and temperature sensor, but you will discover that aspect soon enough.\n\nThe \"\"air tube\"\" you think you've seen is likely called a bowden tube. Such designs permit lighter weight print heads, which is beneficial for speed, acceleration and precision, but has complications with respect to compression of the filament as well as retraction considerations. Non-bowden print heads will have the extruder motor as part of the moving assembly, with the drive wheels very close to the nozzle opening. This allows for flexible filament and more precise control of the filament feed. \n\nEither design has compromises, so one must determine priorities for the design.\n\nCooling is also a factor. The heater cartridge is designed to heat the nozzle to a specific temperature for the type of filament used, but also requires a means to keep the heat from traveling to the portion of filament not in the nozzle. You'll discover terms such as heat break, referring to narrow threaded portion connecting the nozzle assembly to the heat sink. There will also be a cooling fan to blow air over the heat sink and very often a cooling fan to cool the filament as it exits the nozzle and attaches to the model being printed.\n\nYou suggest to ignore the mechanics and software, but it's important to be aware of both when considering the principles of the print head assembly.\n\nSimplified, filament enters bowden tube then into heat sink, pushed by extruder motor (or) filament is pushed into heat sink by extruder motor. Filament travels through heat break, gets melted in heater block and exits nozzle. Sheesh, that's way too simple.\n\",3.6340916038470805,2.0769199823829045\n2797,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,David_32,2.8153892694839717,4.792120674927445,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How to create attachable/detachable printed parts,\"I am making a part that needs to come apart, so I don't want to use glue or similar adhesives. I saw an article about printing snap-fit pieces, but it seems like you would need a lot of expertise to make it work well. Does anybody know of an easy way to non-permanently attach PLA parts, while still maintaining a sturdy connection?\n\nEDIT: (more detail about specific project)\nI need to attach plastic to plastic, in a pretty small surface area. This is a prop knife/sword in which the \"\"blade\"\" retracts into the handle. For the prototype I printed the handle in two halves lengthwise, which I do not want to do for the final product. I want to print as much of the handle in one piece as possible. Because I need to get the blade into the handle (and remove it for working on parts, painting, etc) I need part of the handle to detach. I am thinking that the front bit (examined more closely below) would be the best place to detach. As the wall thickness is about 1/4 in, there is not a whole lot of room to work with. However, I remain hopeful that there is a way to attach it such that it will remain securely together and retain the \"\"blade\"\" properly.\n\nThanks for the help so far.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"This question may yet fall into the too-broad category, but I'll give it a shot. \n\nYou don't want to use glue or adhesives, but does that exclude bolted or screwed fasteners? Threaded inserts are metal \"\"nuts\"\" with knurled grip extrusions that enable one to use a matching bolt. The insert is heated with a soldering iron or similar source and embedded into the part. It's especially useful when the part thickness provides sufficient strength and the threaded insert is on the surface of the part opposite the bolt head.\n\nAnother option you have is to design into the part a \"\"conventional\"\" joint such as a dovetail or slot with the matching dovetail or T shape on the adjoining part. This requires access to the end of the part to enable the sliding action of joining them together, of course. Some testing of prints should be performed to ensure proper mating.\n\nDirectly related to that method is pins and holes. With suitable testing, one would create a hole on both parts and print a pin to match. If one is well versed in the software of choice, one hole with a built-in pin on the adjoining part would work too.\n\nYet another extension is provided free from 3DKitbash:\nhttp://www.3dkitbash.com/free3dmodels/\nin the form of friction fit pins. I've constructed one of their models using this design and find the straight-line pins eventually work free. The pin model with \"\"mouse ears\"\" allows for a bit stronger gripping due to the compression of the shape on insertion.\n\nThe friction fit pins would be considered to be the snap-fit parts you want to avoid, but the level of expertise should not be beyond that of a model designer. \n\nTrial and error works wonders when it comes to putting these things together. I printed an Overwatch logo for a fellow makerspace member. The part used a pin on the insert and a hole on the logo. I was astonished when the two different colored parts slid together quite snugly. I have not calibrated my printer and it was indeed a snap together build. On the flip side, when I pried the two pieces apart (low infill) the pin remained in the hole, snapping cleanly off the insert. Should I be asked to do this again, I would have much more infill on the pins.\n\nFor clarification, consider also to note what software you are using for your design. Some programs lend well to creating connections, others not so much.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n2805,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Andoni Zubizarreta,3.618048892289167,4.428472071646097,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,2.880918201452841,Prusa i3 hotend not getting to the temperature that I want (180 to 230 celsius),\"I recently finished building my first printer. The only problem that I'm having is that the hotend is not getting hot enough to start printing with PLA (180 to 230 degrees celsius), the hotend getting hotter stops at 170 degrees. Please help I've been stuck on this problem for days. Thanks in advance.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Usually, this kind of problem is due to an issue with the control loop of the temperature. You can try to do PID Tuning by running the command M303 E0 S200 C8. This will heat up the hot end and cycle it around 200C a few times, and afterwards tell you Kp, Ki and Kd values which you need to enter into the PID settings of your firmware configuration, or store them in EEPROM using M301.\n\nIf this does not solve the problem, then disconnect the heater cartridge and check its resistance with a multimeter. For a 12V system, it should not be higher than 6Ω (24Ω for a 24V system).\n\nIf the heater cartridge is okay, then perhaps it is a problem with the power supply. While the hotend is heating up, measure the voltage across the heater cartridge. It should not be much less than the nominal 12V/24V your printer runs at. If it is, you may have a bad MOSFET or power supply.\n\nFinally, if you have a very powerful fan blowing on the hotend this can cause issues with heating up as well. Adding a fan shroud (or pointing the fan away from the nozzle and only at the print) can help with this.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n2805,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Andoni Zubizarreta,3.618048892289167,4.428472071646097,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,2.880918201452841,Prusa i3 hotend not getting to the temperature that I want (180 to 230 celsius),\"I recently finished building my first printer. The only problem that I'm having is that the hotend is not getting hot enough to start printing with PLA (180 to 230 degrees celsius), the hotend getting hotter stops at 170 degrees. Please help I've been stuck on this problem for days. Thanks in advance.\n\",zkent,\"There are software limits that might be set low by default depending on the software you are using. I know there is with Marlin.\n\",0.0,0.0\n2807,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Osta,3.0576060275493275,4.153096262786704,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Typical plastic strength at 1500 RPM,\"I'm planning to print a certain sample holder which is going to be placed on a CD-Rom BLDC motor and spun at about 1000-1500 RPM. The holder would essentially be a 2-3 mm thick 100 mm square platform with 1-2 mm thick hooks rising up from outer edges of the platform to hold the sample. The bottom of this platform would also contain a 15 mm diameter crevice designed to latch onto the disc holder attached to the motor. How durable would this printed holder be under these conditions, if it was made of ABS plastic, for example?\n\",tbm0115,\"Really the only thing that would matter for this project is the amount of torque the motor has available and subsequently how heavy your setup is that is connected to the motor. A part that size may just be too heavy for a CD-ROM motor if you intend on adding more parts.\n\nHowever, to answer your question, ABS should be able to endure the stress. I recommend paying attention to how the hooks are printed. You'll want to make sure that the hooks are printed in profile, meaning that the profile of the hooks should be printed with each layer. This will help provide structural integrity to, what sounds like, the most stressful area of the part (the outer edges of a spinning device and a clamping feature).\n\nSomething to keep in mind for projects like this is that most of the time the design will likely be the cause of failure, not the capabilities of the material.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n2809,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Froggy,3.267423727073639,5.9902894861429115,0.0,5.199501240805782,2.3655567426522146,1.6768776830577872,Heated bed is not heating anymore,\"I have built a RepRap Prusa i2 a while back. It worked for a while, but then I moved the printer from place to place and after a while I noticed that the printer's bed is not heating anymore. The thermistor shows the temperature (room temperature), but the bed is not heating. \nThe wires are connected and the heated bed has a resistance. \n\nDid anyone else confronted with this? Thanks!\n\",StarWind0,\"diagnosing a heated bed\n\nSwitch the hot end and the heater bed wires on the board. See if there is a difference. (Note that it will not reach a thermal limit when plugged in this way! So don't leave it on too long!)\n\nAfter that, if you see that your heat increases with the hot end's wires and the hot end being set on in software then you know the issue is likely with the board. At which point try updating / reflashing the board. \n\nAlternatively, you can try a second board and see if it makes a difference.\n\nIf the bed does not heat up even using the heater cartridge connectors, then your heated build plate likely needs to be replaced. Or the wire needs to be replaced.\n\nIf you are running Ramps or a board that uses 2 hot end outputs you can likely reprogram it to use hot end heater 2 as the new output for your heated bed.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n2809,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Froggy,3.267423727073639,5.9902894861429115,0.0,5.199501240805782,2.3655567426522146,1.6768776830577872,Heated bed is not heating anymore,\"I have built a RepRap Prusa i2 a while back. It worked for a while, but then I moved the printer from place to place and after a while I noticed that the printer's bed is not heating anymore. The thermistor shows the temperature (room temperature), but the bed is not heating. \nThe wires are connected and the heated bed has a resistance. \n\nDid anyone else confronted with this? Thanks!\n\",Flautarian,\"I have a Prusa i3 and the same case happened to me. I checked the continuity of the wires and discovered one badly soldered wire in the heated bed. After soldering the wire correctly, the heated bed turned on again.\n\nYour problem is in all likelihood the continuity of the wires.\n\nI hope that I helped you with your case.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n2810,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TrojanByAccident,3.0576060275493275,5.320651723185738,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.306096197889172,\"How to stop objects with \"\"floating\"\" parts from breaking\",\"So, I'm having this problem where almost anything I print with a section(s) that is not directly connected to something below it breaks when I try to pull the small filaments meant to hold it up during printing off. For example, I 3D-printed a Rayquaza(this one) from Pokemon for my little brother, and as I was carefully pulling the filament from under the mouth, the whole head just snapped off. Does someone have a recommendation as to a way to get the small filament off without breaking the object? Would a solution just be to print it bigger and see if it holds up better, or is there something else I can do? Thanks.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"The small filaments you remove that hold the parts up are called supports. The one model I located on Thingiverse clearly requires a number of supports, as the model is not easily designed for 3d printing with FDM printers. It would be better printed with SLS, but that's not the focus of your question.\n\nYou don't specify how large you printed the model, but certainly a scaled-up version will be stronger at the weak points. You will want to use sharp non-shearing cutters to clear away as much of the supports as possible, without torquing on the model.\n\nAnother option which also reduces the forces on the model body is to use a soldering iron to smooth and clear/cut the supports. If you are able to use cutters and not damage the model, the soldering iron can remove and flatten the remnants of those supports.\n\nPlease note that if your careful work has resulted in a model that snaps to pieces, your little brother will soon destroy the successfully cleaned up model just as easily.\n\nIf you have skill with 3d modeling software (Meshmixer and Blender come to mind for such organic models), you can add insignificant items to the model to provide functional support. Would the Rayquaza look fiercer if you 3d printed a cage as an integrated part of the model, using the bars of the cage to provide support?\n\nI successfully printed a model that was created by an artist unfamiliar with 3d printing restrictions. The support material was wash-away PVA. I provided the model to the \"\"owner\"\" who washed away the support material and snapped the legs in two. It's sometimes impossible to solve poor designs. You have a good chance if you build a cage for this one.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n2810,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TrojanByAccident,3.0576060275493275,5.320651723185738,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.306096197889172,\"How to stop objects with \"\"floating\"\" parts from breaking\",\"So, I'm having this problem where almost anything I print with a section(s) that is not directly connected to something below it breaks when I try to pull the small filaments meant to hold it up during printing off. For example, I 3D-printed a Rayquaza(this one) from Pokemon for my little brother, and as I was carefully pulling the filament from under the mouth, the whole head just snapped off. Does someone have a recommendation as to a way to get the small filament off without breaking the object? Would a solution just be to print it bigger and see if it holds up better, or is there something else I can do? Thanks.\n\",Barafu Albino,\"To increase the strength of small parts I do:\n\n\nIncrease the nozzle size to layer height ratio. While 2 is the most popular choice (0.4 nozzle for 0.2 layer) the science behind the process really recommends around 4 (0.7 nozzle for 0.2 layer).\nIncrease the number of outer shells. I made dragons with great wings with 4 shells and no infill. \nTypical things: raise temp, reduce speed. \n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n2815,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,an3k,3.767809650974757,4.2351111056711055,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.585260288142579,Ultimaker Layer Resolution vs Nozzle Size,\"On their website they say the following\n\n0.25 mm nozzle: 150 to 60 micron\n0.40 mm nozzle: 200 to 20 micron\n0.60 mm nozzle: 400 to 20 micron\n0.80 mm nozzle: 600 to 20 micron\n\n\nThat confuses me. Why can I go down to 20 micron with the 0.40, 0.60 and 0.80 nozzle but only down to 60 micron with the much smaller 0.25 nozzle? Is that a typo and should say 6 micron?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"You need a certain minimum flow rate to achieve consistent extrusion. Flow rate is the product of print speed, extrusion width (proportional to nozzle size) and print speed. If you use a very small nozzle and very low layer height, you'd need a very high printing speed to achieve a reasonable flow rate. Therefore, it's quite possible this is not a mistake and intentional.\n\nKeep in mind that Ultimaker uses 2.85mm filament. With a 0.3mm extrusion width, 0.02mm layer height and 60mm/s print speed, you would need a feedrate of 0.06mm/s into your extruder. The extruder might not be able to develop enough force on the filament at such a low speed (which, owing to the small nozzle size, requires a relatively large amount of force).\n\nThe ultimaker can not print 6 micron layers since the smallest increment the Z-axis can move in is 5 microns. 6 microns is not a multiple of that.\n\",3.2133663407215876,0.0\n2815,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,an3k,3.767809650974757,4.2351111056711055,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.585260288142579,Ultimaker Layer Resolution vs Nozzle Size,\"On their website they say the following\n\n0.25 mm nozzle: 150 to 60 micron\n0.40 mm nozzle: 200 to 20 micron\n0.60 mm nozzle: 400 to 20 micron\n0.80 mm nozzle: 600 to 20 micron\n\n\nThat confuses me. Why can I go down to 20 micron with the 0.40, 0.60 and 0.80 nozzle but only down to 60 micron with the much smaller 0.25 nozzle? Is that a typo and should say 6 micron?\n\",Markus Appel,\"In addition of Tom van der Zanden's answer, when the filament moves too slowly through the heated part of the printhead it is very likeley to clog.\n\nI have had this multiple times on my UM1+, most of the time resulting from a heated printhead with no extrusion (before or after prints). So you need to be sure to have a minimum of filament extrusion happening, wich is most likeley not the case when having 0.25mm * 20 micron instead of 0.60mm * 20micron, for example.\n\nYou could of course make the printhead move faster, resulting in a higher extrusion, but that will lower the print quality again.\n\nBut let me tell you this: Always look out for high extrusion, removing clogs is a real pain!\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n2817,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Erutan409,2.528907649931287,4.868634228539023,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How to properly read dimensions for a 3D printer?,\"I'm trying to find the correct way to read and understand the dimensions of a 3D printer. For example, if I read the following dimensions for the Robo 3D R1 Plus as 10x9x8 Inch - I want to know what 10 stands for (does it mean print height?), 9 (depth?), and 8 (width?); etc. I'm not sure if I'm assuming correctly.\n\nI know this should be simple, but I'm not sure where to reference the proper ordering, respective to each aforementioned dimension.\n\n\nUPDATE\n\n\nWhile looking at Makerbot's Replicator technical specifications, I see them listing their dimensions as follows:\n\nBuild Volume\n\n29.5 L X 19.5 W X 16.5 H CM\n[11.6 X 7.6 X 6.5 IN]\n\n\nSo, if I'm reading this correctly, can I infer that 11.6 IN is referring to the length/depth, 7.6 IN is referring to the width, and 6.5 IN is referring to the height. Would this be the universal/standard way of referring to build specifications for all 3D printers?\n\",Markus Appel,\"Having the dimensions of your 3D printer ordered in Length x Width x Height is a common way, but nobody actually decided it.\nI think it has something to do with the 3rd dimension being the \"\"new\"\" dimension for printing things, that's why it's appended at the end.\nAdditionally, the first axis on a 2D-coordinate system usually is the horizontal one, so writing Length x Width makes sense for me.\nIf you are unsure you can always test your printer (if you have one) by writing your own G-Code that moves the printhead on a defined axis.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n2823,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,easycheese,3.0576060275493275,4.072488158082937,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Should I use different nozzles for different materials?,\"I know I should use different nozzles for filaments that use vastly different temperatures but what about filament types that use similar temperatures?\n\nFor example, PLA and PLA composites like ColorFabb Woodfill filament. Should I use a separate nozzle for that?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"There is absolutely no reason to use different nozzles, not even if filaments do require different temperatures.\n\nThe only exception is when printing abrasive filaments (such as glow-in-the-dark and carbon-fiber) in which case you should use an abrasion-resistant, stainless steel nozzle. This nozzle can also be used to to print \"\"regular\"\" filaments but a regular brass nozzle has slightly more favorable properties if you do not require abrasion resistance.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n2823,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,easycheese,3.0576060275493275,4.072488158082937,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Should I use different nozzles for different materials?,\"I know I should use different nozzles for filaments that use vastly different temperatures but what about filament types that use similar temperatures?\n\nFor example, PLA and PLA composites like ColorFabb Woodfill filament. Should I use a separate nozzle for that?\n\",0scar,\"It depends on the size of the nozzle you are using. If you are using a small nozzle, e.g. 0.2 mm, normally, you should increase the nozzle diameter (filament manufacturers often refer to about 0.5 mm nozzle diameters). Wood/cork, or whatever particle filled filament requires a somewhat larger diameter to prevent clogging.\n\n\n\nIn addition to Tom's answer, note that there are stainless steel nozzles and hardened steel nozzles. The latter is harder than the prior and should be used for abrasive filaments, like filament filled with metal particles or some sort of abrasive fibres like glass or carbon fibre. Note that the addition of fibres or particles may require you to increase the nozzle diameter as fibres or particles may cause clogging. A last nozzle discussed is the nozzle with an embedded industrial Ruby, a design of Anders Olsson, a research engineer at Uppsala University, more information is found on the Olsson Ruby website.\n\nFrom the Olsson Ruby website, the following interesting image is shown, comparing the wear resistance of the various nozzle materials up to 0.5 mm (from left to right; brass, stainless steel and hardened steel by printing respectively 0.3 kg, 1.0 kg and 4 kg of carbon fibre filled filament):\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n2833,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,easycheese,2.528907649931287,5.076016818331975,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Laybrick - Gaps on top layer,\"I'm trying to print with Laybrick and for the most part it is going. The problem lies with the top layer and gaps appearing. I've tried increasing the number of top layers but the gaps still appear. Any ideas what else I can try? \n\nI'm using Simplify3d.\n\n\",Mikhail Z,\"When using Simplify3D, you may try referring to their awesome troubleshooting guide: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#holes-and-gaps-in-the-top-layers\n3 reasons (from the guide) for gaps in the top layers:\n\n\nunder-extrusion: you may try to increase extrusion multiplier to see if this helps\nlow infill percentage: not likely in your case if increasing number of top layers did not help\nnot enough top layers: you already tried increasing number of top layers.\n\n\nIn addition to that, you may change certain parameters (such as extrusion multiplier) for a given number of layers by using Simplify3D features. It can be helpful to avoid problems to for the rest of the model.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n2833,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,easycheese,2.528907649931287,5.076016818331975,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Laybrick - Gaps on top layer,\"I'm trying to print with Laybrick and for the most part it is going. The problem lies with the top layer and gaps appearing. I've tried increasing the number of top layers but the gaps still appear. Any ideas what else I can try? \n\nI'm using Simplify3d.\n\n\",easycheese,\"The solution was a combination of several items. The primary one was slowing down the top layer of the print significantly. I was using 3200 mm/min for the print and used the option 'solid fill underspeed' to slow down the top layers to 40%. I increased the top layers to 7. I also increased the infill, to ensure there was support in the tiny top pieces. I also decreased the minimum infill length to 0 to ensure the infill went in tiny places. Finally, I used the 'Concentric' external fill pattern.\n\nAt some rotations of the model, I had slight gaps in the corners of the model, increasing the number of outline layers fixed it.\n\nI also decreased the temp to 160 compared to the initial print above.\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n2955,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,easycheese,3.452496054252184,4.141915978701921,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.6229190288168605,Weird bumps cylindrical hole,\"Not quite sure what's happening here. I printed it as a single ball and had this effect. I thought it might be a cooling issue so I printed 4 at once but the issue still occurred. If I size the ball up, the problem reduces.\n\nNote that the hole is supposed to be a cylinder.\n\n\n\",tbm0115,\"It looks like possibly a combination of too high of extruder temperature and poor retraction.\n\n\nFirst, try reducing your extruder temperature. PLA ideal extruder temps range from about 185C to 225C; depending on purity, quality, and climate. This can help prevent additional oozing and clogging. If your extruder clogs easily, you probably have too high of temperature.\nAfter you've verified you have correct extrusion temperature. Try finding/adjusting retraction settings in your preferred slicing engine. Here's a good troubleshoot page from Simplify3D's website.\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n2955,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,easycheese,3.452496054252184,4.141915978701921,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.6229190288168605,Weird bumps cylindrical hole,\"Not quite sure what's happening here. I printed it as a single ball and had this effect. I thought it might be a cooling issue so I printed 4 at once but the issue still occurred. If I size the ball up, the problem reduces.\n\nNote that the hole is supposed to be a cylinder.\n\n\n\",Smitje,\"In order to exclude a cooling issue, you could try printing a larger object alongside the spheres. Something that has a constant cross-section and is at least as high as the spheres.\n\nI have had issues when printing objects with a sharp tip, even printing 8 at once the total amount printed on the top layers was not enough to let the material cool before the next layer.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3304,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,easycheese,3.0576060275493275,6.682931101541413,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,What causes these round corners,\"Nozzle diameter = .4\nExtrusion multiplier = 1\nExtrusion Width = .45 <-- I feel like this could be reduced to fix it?\n\nLayer Height = .3\n\n\nI'm using Simplify3D.\n\n\n\n\",Eric Kelly,\"If it's on each corner, and not the layer change corner, it's a combination of overshoot and the short \"\"pause\"\" of the printer when it changes direction. \n\nYou can minimize it, but it won't go away 100% (due to overshoot from direction changes), usually models with a slight rounded corners work great. If you, say, increase the jerk as an experiment and they get sharper (but you obviously have to deal with potential ringing artifacts) then it's due to that pause and acceleration after a direction change.\n\nI would try lowering the temperature a bit to slow the flow/oozing of the nozzle and calibrate extrusion - just to keep the settings tight as possible to keep dimensional accuracy, but not under extrude obviously. \n\nIf it's where a layer change occurs, tweak and play with retraction settings - such as coasting and extra distance on restart (you can put negative values here). Once those are set, as an advanced tweak, try to max the z speed... Obviously this involves motor current, testing for skipped steps etc... but this would make the layer change a bit quicker, to further reduce oozing, due to the delay in layer changes if retraction settings don't fix it. \n\nUsually, you can fix the corners with retraction settings but then it can mess up other parts of a model, since those settings are global... I wish slicers were more intelligent. \n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n3304,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,easycheese,3.0576060275493275,6.682931101541413,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,What causes these round corners,\"Nozzle diameter = .4\nExtrusion multiplier = 1\nExtrusion Width = .45 <-- I feel like this could be reduced to fix it?\n\nLayer Height = .3\n\n\nI'm using Simplify3D.\n\n\n\n\",Diesel,\"Three factors that will impact the 'sharpness' of corners, first is your extruder speed, second is retraction rate and third is nozzle diameter.\n\nBy slowing down your extruder will be able to track the features of your model better. I generally try to print with extruder speeds of ~10mm/s which gives fairly good results. The nozzle diameter will be the most extreme limiting condition on how sharp you can get your corners. This I think is likely your issue. \n\nRetraction rate could have an effect on the corner sharpness. I don't think that's the problem you're experiencing but worth mentioning. Depending on the specific geometry if your nozzle stops at a corner while it raises in Z if your retraction is too low additional filament can ooze out making the corners appear more rounded.\n\nTypically a nozzle diameters are about 0.4mm which is pretty sharp, however if you have something larger that could effect it as well. Again, not your specific issue but something to keep in mind for future builds.\n\",0.0,0.0\n3910,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,easycheese,2.528907649931287,4.892707555260664,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.6229190288168605,Having trouble getting first layer support to stick,\"I'm having an issue where the first layer of my support structures isn't sticking on the edges and causing the print to (eventually) fail. Any ideas on how I can fix it?\n\nI'm using Slic3r.\n\n\n\",fred_dot_u,\"There are many things you'll need to check and/or confirm to ensure that you will have a good bond to the bed. The first is to confirm that you are using a genuine Prusa printer as it appears in the photo. Having built one recently makes it easier for me to guess that is the case.\n\nHave you performed the bed calibration sequence? The manual provides a series of steps which results in a zig-zag pattern of filament being placed on the bed, while the z-height is adjusted from the panel. You want to have a filament trace that is only slightly squished onto the bed, not flattened so much that it's cutting into the PEI and not so high that it's nearly cylindrical.\n\nThe bed must be of the correct temperature for the filament selected. If in doubt, raise it five to ten degrees C. I recently assisted with the aforementioned printer that had a peeling problem and the bed temperature had to be raised to 70°C from the \"\"standard\"\" 55°C generated by Slic3r.\n\nIt is critical that the bed be clean as well. Denatured alcohol is recommended, with application of a clean cloth.\n\nYour photo is somewhat out of focus, making it difficult to determine if the brim is being created at an excessively high z-level, which will cause peeling. The main body of the print, also out of focus appears to be heavily flattened, but that could be an artifact of the photo.\n\nThe reflections on the bed appear to indicate that some gouges in the surface exist. If your PEI is damaged, you will have the problem you described. I've seen videos in which the bed is not quite as gouged and was refreshed with very light sandpaper or very light steel wool or both. Of course, after using such material, clean the surface thoroughly.\n\nI understand the PEI that is applied by the manufacturer is quite thin and can be further damaged if too much pressure is applied while refreshing. It is far better to apply too little pressure if you plan to perform this task.\n\nConsider to read through the manual and address all of the calibration aspects of the printer to establish a base point for the problem you are experiencing.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n3910,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,easycheese,2.528907649931287,4.892707555260664,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.6229190288168605,Having trouble getting first layer support to stick,\"I'm having an issue where the first layer of my support structures isn't sticking on the edges and causing the print to (eventually) fail. Any ideas on how I can fix it?\n\nI'm using Slic3r.\n\n\n\",Brendan Smith,\"If you are using PLA, putting blue painter's tape down on the print bed will really increase adhesion. You can also lightly sand the blue tape with a piece of fine sandpaper to further increase bed adhesion.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2826,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FeliceM,3.267423727073639,4.788374071315382,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Height of printed part is incorrect,\"I have a weird problem with my old 3D printer, it is a Prusa/Mendel type.\nWhen I print a 20 mm cube, X and Y are correct, Z is resulting 16 to 17 mm.\nI have checked the correctness of the movement on Z using the manual controls and there are no issues.\n\nI played a bit with the layer thickness, I have a 0.4 mm nozzle, setting the layer height to 0.12 mm (normally is on 0.16 mm) but no changes in the result.\nI am printing PLA on a cold bed at 180 °C without any other particular defect.\n\nI would appreciate some direction on how to solve such problem.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"You should check that the steps per mm for your Z-axis are set correctly. This depends on the pitch of the leadscrews/threaded rods driving the axis and parameters of your steppers (microstepping and raw steps/revolution). This Calculator.\n\nMake sure that your layer height is a multiple of a full step of the Z-stepper. The Z-stepper may be disabled intermittently, and when re-enabled it may \"\"snap\"\" to the nearest full step position. If your layer height requires microstepping, you may notice it getting rounded down or up due to this.\n\nFor instance, if a full step were 0.08 mm, then 0.16 mm layers would require 2 full steps, printing fine. 0.12 mm layers would require 1 full step and a half microstep. Due to rounding, some layers might be reduced to 0.08 mm instead. This might account for the height discrepancy you're seeing (though 0.08 mm is quite a high, unrealistic amount for a full-step).\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n2826,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FeliceM,3.267423727073639,4.788374071315382,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Height of printed part is incorrect,\"I have a weird problem with my old 3D printer, it is a Prusa/Mendel type.\nWhen I print a 20 mm cube, X and Y are correct, Z is resulting 16 to 17 mm.\nI have checked the correctness of the movement on Z using the manual controls and there are no issues.\n\nI played a bit with the layer thickness, I have a 0.4 mm nozzle, setting the layer height to 0.12 mm (normally is on 0.16 mm) but no changes in the result.\nI am printing PLA on a cold bed at 180 °C without any other particular defect.\n\nI would appreciate some direction on how to solve such problem.\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"A suitable test part for this problem, to check if the bad scaling is linear or the result of missing steps (as was identified in this case) would be a ramp, or sequence of steps. You can check the linearity using a straight edge, and would be able to perform repeated tests to identify of there was a specific Z location where steps were more likely to be lost (for example due to some tightness in the motion system).\n\",0.0,0.0\n2905,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FeliceM,2.528907649931287,5.378808543633996,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Marlin (on RUMBA board) switch extruder fan automatically,\"I have wired in a new extruder with its own cooling fan and I tried to change the Marlin firmware to switch it on automatically above a specific temperature (50 °C).\nI did noting in the Configuration.h\nI changed a line in the Configuration_adv.h\n\nfrom\n\n#define EXTRUDER_0_AUTO_FAN_PIN -1\n\n\nto\n\n#define EXTRUDER_0_AUTO_FAN_PIN 8\n\n\nas described in this article.\nBut the fan is not starting when I bring the temperature above 50 °C (manually). However it starts if I switch the fan on manually from Repetier.\nAm I missing something? How do I control the fan automatically on FAN0 output when the temperature reached the set limit?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The RUMBA board has two fan outputs. The primary fan output is switched by pin 7, the secondary one by pin 8. The reason your fan is not working when you set #define EXTRUDER_0_AUTO_FAN_PIN 8 is because it's switching the secondary fan. If you switch the wires over to the secondary fan output it will work correctly.\n\nIf you do want to use the primary fan output then you can achieve this by setting #define EXTRUDER_0_AUTO_FAN_PIN 7 but you will need to search for the #define FAN 8 in the appropriate pins.h file and change 8 to something else (-1 or 7, for example).\n\nI would recommend the first solution, because you should have a controllable print cooling fan, and an automatic extruder cooling fan.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n2931,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FeliceM,3.0576060275493275,4.756983902721671,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,4.091740895605862,3.535506697183007,I am experiencing some severe under extrusion,\"I did calibrate the extruder to extrude exactly 50/100 mm and it is fine.\nI have replaced the old (prehistorical) extruder that was giving me the problem with a new one.\nThe issue does not go away. It is severely under extruded.\nThe nozzle is a 0.4 mm, if I extrude manually the extrusion is nice and clean but when printing its a mess.\nI have the following setting in Slic3:\n\n\nLayer height: 0,16\nFirst layer height: 0,16\nFilament diameter: 2,94\nExtruder temperature: 184°C\nExtrusion multiplier: 1\nFill density: 15%\n\n\nIn Marlin I have the following setting for the extruder:\n\n\nSteps per unit: 1450 (I use micro steps)\nDefault acceleration: 3000\nDefault retract acceleration: 3000\nDefault Ejerk: 5\n\n\nHow can I solve this problem?\n\n\n\nThis is a 20 mm cube I stopped after 15 layers!\n\nHere is another 20 mm cube, the dimensions are perfect but is absolutely a mess.\n\n\",Chris Thompson,\"Assuming your filament dimension settings are correct and your extruder is correctly calibrated...\n\nYour extruder temperature may be too low. While 184C can be hot enough, it is very near the bottom of the range for PLA and it appears your filament isn't melting quickly enough to keep up with your other settings. Your extruder may even be running slightly cooler than you think so your 184C setting may actually be printing at 180C or less.\n\nTo solve this:\n\n\nRaise your extruder temperature. I suggest raising your print temperature to 220 degrees and then gradually lower it until other aspects of your print quality are acceptable (bridging, oozing, etc).\nSlow down your print. Slowing down reduces the volume of melted plastic your extruder has to deliver in a given amount of time. This allows more time for the plastic to melt and allows you to use a lower print temperature\n\n\nYour filament feed mechanism may be slipping. Even if you have adequate temperature and perfectly calibrated firmware and print settings, if your filament feed mechanism (the thing that pushes filament into your extruder) is slipping, you will have under-extruded parts.\n\nTo solve this:\n\n\nMake sure you have adequate tension on your filament feed mechanism. If your feed mechanism is too loose, filament may slip and cause under extrusion. The part to check is the part the pushes the filament into the rotating hobbed bolt or friction wheel...make sure it applies adequate pressure. \"\"Adequate pressure\"\" or \"\"adequate tension\"\" will vary depending you your printer's design, but it should be enough to provide a firm grip on the filament.\nVerify your feed mechanism is clean. A hobbed bolt or similar filament drive mechanism that has become clogged or otherwise contaminated may cause filament to slip and under-extrude.\nEnsure the end of your filament is not damaged from slipping. Once your filament has slipped, it may be damaged with a worn spot, a bulge, or some other defect that can prevent proper feeding even after you fix the root cause of your problem. So, as tbm0115 pointed out, be sure to clip off the damaged end to make sure you have good filament feeding into your extruder.\n\n\nI hope this helps!\n\",3.5068404193471867,2.0769199823829045\n2931,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FeliceM,3.0576060275493275,4.756983902721671,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,4.091740895605862,3.535506697183007,I am experiencing some severe under extrusion,\"I did calibrate the extruder to extrude exactly 50/100 mm and it is fine.\nI have replaced the old (prehistorical) extruder that was giving me the problem with a new one.\nThe issue does not go away. It is severely under extruded.\nThe nozzle is a 0.4 mm, if I extrude manually the extrusion is nice and clean but when printing its a mess.\nI have the following setting in Slic3:\n\n\nLayer height: 0,16\nFirst layer height: 0,16\nFilament diameter: 2,94\nExtruder temperature: 184°C\nExtrusion multiplier: 1\nFill density: 15%\n\n\nIn Marlin I have the following setting for the extruder:\n\n\nSteps per unit: 1450 (I use micro steps)\nDefault acceleration: 3000\nDefault retract acceleration: 3000\nDefault Ejerk: 5\n\n\nHow can I solve this problem?\n\n\n\nThis is a 20 mm cube I stopped after 15 layers!\n\nHere is another 20 mm cube, the dimensions are perfect but is absolutely a mess.\n\n\",Trotski94,\"Looks to me like you have your slicer set to 3mm filament when you're using 1.75mm filament. Confirm that your slicer has its filament setting set to 1.75mm and not 3mm (this obviously assumes you are using 1.75mm filament..)\n\nFailing this:\n\n\nTest extruder steps/mm\nEnsure nozzle diameter is set correctly (usually doesnt make too much difference anyway...)\nEnsure extrusion multiplier is set correctly.\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n2964,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FeliceM,3.0576060275493275,3.1237389567344533,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,How should I power these stepper motors,\"I am rebuilding my printer, a hold Prusa/Mendel that has been boxed for years. I have changed the board ( I am using a Rumba) and the drivers (I am using Pololu 8225) with heatsinks and 1/16 microsteps.\n\n5 motors type 42BYGHW811, rated: 2,5 A, R 1,25 Ohm.\nI have set the stepper voltage at 0,8 V for XYE which gives a current of 0,64 A and they seems to work without problems.\n\nTo get the same current on Z, where I have 2 motors in parallel, I should set it at 0,4 V but the motors do not turn at such low voltage. They just make noise, no turn. I have M8 rods nicely lubricated on such axis and I can turn them easily by fingers. If I go up to 1 V the motors turns but then the driver gets very hot and I loose steps. May be I should play with the acceleration too?\n\nI am not sure if the above settings are correct. Your hints from your actual settings and experiences will be appreciated.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"If the motors are in parallel, then setting it at 0.4V means each motor will only get a quarter of the current a single motor would get at 0.8V. If you set it to 0.8V each motor will get half. I think 0.8V (same as for the other motors) would be an appropriate setting. Stepper drivers are constant-current, not constant-voltage.\n\nAre the steps/mm for your Z-axis correct? Perhaps it's just trying to move too quickly.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n2986,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FeliceM,3.0576060275493275,5.4962799717584225,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Auto bed levelling with Rumba board - Servo not deploying,\"Has anyone succeeded in installing the auto bed levelling on a Rumba board with Marlin firmware?\n\nI have the last stable version 1.1.0 RC6.\n\nI would appreciate some direction especially about:\n\n\nHow and which pin to activate for the servo?\nHow to test it with G-code before I move to settings of the probe sequence?\n\n\nI have only installed the hardware for now (5 V servo) connected to Ext. 3 (EXP3):\n\n\nPin 2 (+5V);\nPin 4 (GND), and;\nPin 6 (PWM),\n\n\n\n\n\n\nbut I cannot move it with the G-code command M280 P0 S180. I have no idea where to put my hands on firmware to get this going. However my ultimate goal is to set the ABL.\n\",FeliceM,\"For future reference.\n\nMy issue about the servo not moving was caused by a wiring mistake.\nThe Exp. 3 has 14 pins has per this diagram.\n\n\n\nHowever when phisically looking at the board, what you see is this:\n\n\nI took the first 2 pins on the right of such connector and the 3rd one of the first row thinking that I was connecting pins 2-4-5 of Exp. 3.\nI was wrong, because the first 2 (1-2) pins are not part of Exp. 3.\n\nThe right way to connect the servo is as following:\n\n\nThen use PWM1 (pin 5 Ext.3)\nI decided to leave trace of this issue and the relevant solution for someone that may experience the same issue.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n2986,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FeliceM,3.0576060275493275,5.4962799717584225,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Auto bed levelling with Rumba board - Servo not deploying,\"Has anyone succeeded in installing the auto bed levelling on a Rumba board with Marlin firmware?\n\nI have the last stable version 1.1.0 RC6.\n\nI would appreciate some direction especially about:\n\n\nHow and which pin to activate for the servo?\nHow to test it with G-code before I move to settings of the probe sequence?\n\n\nI have only installed the hardware for now (5 V servo) connected to Ext. 3 (EXP3):\n\n\nPin 2 (+5V);\nPin 4 (GND), and;\nPin 6 (PWM),\n\n\n\n\n\n\nbut I cannot move it with the G-code command M280 P0 S180. I have no idea where to put my hands on firmware to get this going. However my ultimate goal is to set the ABL.\n\",Jexoteric,\"General note, I do not have this board so I cannot test these steps myself, read the documentation in configuration.h, it is very detailed and should guide you pretty well. I am specifically looking at Marlin 1.1 RC7 on Github, so the lines below may vary slightly from what you see.\n\nAs to the pins to connect on the board for the servo, pins_RUMBA.h is where they are defined/mapped. For other boards, there is a pins_[your_board_name].h that will define the pins for any given board. \n\nThe default Servo pin for Rumba is:\n\n#define SERVO0_PIN 5\n\n\nPin 6 appears to be used for a third extruder heater.\n\n#define HEATER_2_PIN 6 // EXTRUDER 3\n\n\nIn configuration.h you must uncomment (delete the slashes \"\"//\"\" at the beginning) the lines and fill in your stow and deploy angles in the second line for the servo. Find these lines under the Z probe options heading.\n\n//#define Z_ENDSTOP_SERVO_NR 0\n//#define Z_SERVO_ANGLES {70,0} // Z Servo Deploy and Stow angles\n\n\nDefine your probe offsets from your extruder nozzle:\n\n#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]\n#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]\n#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]\n\n\nBased on your comment for using two z end stop switches, there is an option you must enable to use the standard end stop switch for homing, and only use the probe end stop for mesh bed leveling type operations. The config.h file has a lot of information on this, please read it for your own and your printers safety. \n\nUncomment this line:\n\n//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP\n\n\nand comment this line:\n\n#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN\n\n\nThen set the carriage height to allow the z probe room to swing down and move:\n\n#define Z_PROBE_DEPLOY_HEIGHT 15 // Raise to make room for the probe to deploy / stow\n#define Z_PROBE_TRAVEL_HEIGHT 5 // Raise between probing points.\n\n\nFor autobed leveling uncomment:\n\n//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_FEATURE // Delete the comment to enable\n\n\nThen set probe points corners: \n\n#if ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID)\n\n#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 15\n#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 170\n#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 20\n#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 170\n\n#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 10 // The Z probe minimum square sides can be no smaller than this.\n\n\nSet the number of points to probe in each direction (x and y), default is 2, so it will probe 4 locations, the other common choice is 3, so it will probe a grid of 9 locations.\n\n// Set the number of grid points per dimension.\n// You probably don't need more than 3 (squared=9).\n#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID_POINTS 2\n\n\nThat should be everything you need for a basic setup, although there are more options that I did not go through. Please look at all the documentation comments in configuration.h file as it is very comprehensive, even if it can be a bit confusing.\n\nI hope this helps!\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n3012,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FeliceM,2.528907649931287,4.329476789776803,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,RCBugFix what is it?,\"I've posted an issue on GitHub and I have been advised to load RCBugFix.\nI have never used it and I do not know what is about.\n\nWhat is it?\nHow does it work?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"It refers to a specific branch of the current project, named RCBugFix. It's basically the most up-to-date, bleeding edge version of Marlin that contains all of the most recent fixes (it is more up-to-date than RC). However, as it's so up-to-date, it's also not thoroughly tested and possibly quite unstable.\n\n\n The latest Release Candidate lives in the \"\"RC\"\" branch. Bugs that we find in the current Release Candidate are patched in the \"\"RCBugFix\"\" branch, so during beta testing this is where you can always find the latest code on its way towards release.\n\n\nUse with caution.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n3031,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FeliceM,2.528907649931287,5.32208858679126,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Autobed leveling doesn't compensate,\"I finally manage to setup the ABL on my Prusa.\nI run G28 to home all axes (for z I use the same probe used for ABL). Then\nI run G29 E ( I use E because otherwise for some reason I have not understood yet, Z does not lift during probings) probing 4 points on the corners of the bed.\n\nfinally I get the map of the bed:\n\nBed Level Correction Matrix:\n+0.999999 +0.000000 +0.001233\n-0.000005 +0.999992 +0.003905\n-0.001233 -0.003905 +0.999992\n\n\nand after that, the print starts.\nThe first layer looks perfect however I have not seen Z moving a single step along the printing.\n\nAny hint about what to check? Is the obtained map indicating that the bed is already too leveled to act on any compensation?\n\nUPDATE\nI printed a 180 mm diamater cylinder and the Z axis is not compensating the 1mm difference from edge to edge of the bed.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"I believe that the matrix is shown transposed from how it should be, but that doesn't affect the answer. The compensated Z position is derived from the original (X,Y,Z) position by multiplying the corresponding vector with that matrix. This means that the new Z position would be\n\nZ' = 0.999992Z - 0.001233X - 0.003905Y\n\n\nIf you have a 200 x 200 printbed, a diagonal move from one corner to the other would correspond to a 1mm change in Z-height. This should be noticeable, but if perhaps you're printing something quite small you might not notice it.\n\nThough, if your first layer is perfect, I would see no reason to mess with it.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3031,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FeliceM,2.528907649931287,5.32208858679126,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Autobed leveling doesn't compensate,\"I finally manage to setup the ABL on my Prusa.\nI run G28 to home all axes (for z I use the same probe used for ABL). Then\nI run G29 E ( I use E because otherwise for some reason I have not understood yet, Z does not lift during probings) probing 4 points on the corners of the bed.\n\nfinally I get the map of the bed:\n\nBed Level Correction Matrix:\n+0.999999 +0.000000 +0.001233\n-0.000005 +0.999992 +0.003905\n-0.001233 -0.003905 +0.999992\n\n\nand after that, the print starts.\nThe first layer looks perfect however I have not seen Z moving a single step along the printing.\n\nAny hint about what to check? Is the obtained map indicating that the bed is already too leveled to act on any compensation?\n\nUPDATE\nI printed a 180 mm diamater cylinder and the Z axis is not compensating the 1mm difference from edge to edge of the bed.\n\",FeliceM,\"I found the issue. As I mentioned in my question UPDATE, trying to print something that cover the full bed, the ABL was not working.\nThe issue was the Gcode I added after the G29.\nIn fact for some reason I added a G28 X0 after the G29 and that basically cancel the data acquired in the G29.\nI learned something new, do not use G28 after G29!\n\nNow it is working nicely.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2831,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ageis,2.528907649931287,3.9215535641013384,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Hictop prusa I3 clone - broken z axis right bracket bearing,\"I was very excited to get my 3d printer but sadly I didn't realise I'd installed the z axis upside down. There's a plastic coupler that goes into the hole for the polished rods it broke then released 1 -2mm sized ball bearing all over my floor.\n\nIs it possible to just replace that coupler thingy?\n\nOr if I 3d print a replacement will it still need that coupler thingy?\n\n\n\n\n\nThe first picture is the one that spilled it's guts all over my kitchen floor. \n\nThe last image is an example of how it used to look like but on the left hand side. I know the image looks like it's the right but you can see a bit of the horizontal rods if look closely\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"That \"\"plastic coupler thingy\"\" is actually a linear bearing, and it consists of a metal shell, and the metal balls roll between the smooth rod and this shell. The plastic part has a channel that guides the balls in a circle.\n\nIt would be best to replace the entire bearing (metal part+balls+plastic liner). It's probably either an LM8UU (most likely) or LM8LUU bearing.\n\n3D Printing a new part will not give good results.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n2884,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ageis,3.452496054252184,3.823789413750767,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.3995491493854546,\"Does the printing substrate have to be glass? If so, what size?\",\"I am new to 3D printing. I have just put together my own 3D printer with some help.\n\nI was advised I shouldn't print directly onto the aluminium plate - I assume it's aluminium.\n\n\nThe manufacturer did give me a piece of matrix board (i.e. no cooper at all) to print on. Will this work well?\nIf glass is better, does it have to cover the entire bed? My bed is 275 mm deep by 220 mm wide. I'm struggling to find glass for it that will come within the next few days. The only custom cut was on eBay and it's going to take over a week to arrive.\n\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Printing on glass is very common because it is very flat and leaves a very smooth finish on the bottom of prints. The perfboard will also work fine, but is not an as common choice because prints are harder to remove from it.\n\nPrinting directly onto the heater PCB is uncommon since it is usually not flat enough and you may damage it while removing the print.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n2884,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ageis,3.452496054252184,3.823789413750767,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.3995491493854546,\"Does the printing substrate have to be glass? If so, what size?\",\"I am new to 3D printing. I have just put together my own 3D printer with some help.\n\nI was advised I shouldn't print directly onto the aluminium plate - I assume it's aluminium.\n\n\nThe manufacturer did give me a piece of matrix board (i.e. no cooper at all) to print on. Will this work well?\nIf glass is better, does it have to cover the entire bed? My bed is 275 mm deep by 220 mm wide. I'm struggling to find glass for it that will come within the next few days. The only custom cut was on eBay and it's going to take over a week to arrive.\n\n\",Chris Thompson,\"Obviously being in a rush can limit your options, but here are a few thoughts:\n\nQuick solutions:\n\n\nBlue painters tape (as Carl mentioned) will work directly on your heated bed...assuming it's a flat piece of aluminum with the heating element under it. Your surface does need to be flat.\nAcrylic plate will work but is best with no heat, or low heat. PLA sticks to it. It's easy to cut and easy to find at local hardware stores.\nScrap glass is fairly easy to find for free and it's not that hard to cut...or buy some at your local hardware store and have them cut it. Just be careful, it's sharp. You can sand the sharp edges (wet sandpaper) to make it safer. No, it doesn't have to cover the whole plate, but obviously covering the whole plate would normally be preferred.\n\n\nBetter (but not as fast) solutions:\n\n\nBuy some custom tempered glass. I like One Day Glass because they're fast and very capable. Like Tom says, many many people print on glass because it's nice and flat and stiff. It's also easy to clean and holds up well. You can print on the bare glass with many materials or use various preparations like PVA (glue stick or white glue diluted with water are popular), hairspray, or others.\nTouch Screen Glass: Some people like replacement glass for tablets or touch screens because it has a hardened scratch-resistant surface. I've not tried it, but if you can find one that is the right size, it might be worth a shot.\nSpecialty products: There are many many print bed products out there that promise an easier/better printing experience. I've used a few that are okay...definitely better than blue painters tape, but I much prefer my current favorite...\nMy current favorite is PEI. Use a 3M 468MP adhesive sheet (it handles the heat well) to stick a thin sheet PEI (also sold under brand name Ultem) on top of your glass plate. I got this idea from Lulzbot and it's what they use on all of their printers. It works beautifully. Common filaments stick to it while it's hot and release easily while it's cool. For other filaments I just use PVA like I would over glass. For material printing tips and settings that work well on PEI beds, check out Lulzbot's site. When it starts wearing out or getting scuffed up, I just sand it with fine sandpaper and I'm good to go for another hundred prints or so.\n\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n2916,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ageis,3.767809650974757,4.322091345256427,2.7799718631987322,4.670422881206417,3.749318730431847,2.771436658049143,How close should the nozzle be to the substrate?,\"I have my nozzle close to the substrate that I am printing on, so that a piece of paper can just about slide underneath it freely, without catching.\n\nIs this the right way to do it?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Using a piece of paper won't guarantee you get exactly the \"\"correct\"\" height (because different papers have different thicknesses, and it's hard to determine exactly when it no longer catches on the nozzle) but it gets the bed level and the distance will be close to correct.\n\nYou can then further adjust the height by observing the first layer and making adjustments based on whether you see the first layer being squished down enough or too much. The babystepping feature (if enabled) is very useful for this.\n\",0.0,0.0\n2916,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ageis,3.767809650974757,4.322091345256427,2.7799718631987322,4.670422881206417,3.749318730431847,2.771436658049143,How close should the nozzle be to the substrate?,\"I have my nozzle close to the substrate that I am printing on, so that a piece of paper can just about slide underneath it freely, without catching.\n\nIs this the right way to do it?\n\",tbm0115,\"Traditionally, using a piece of paper (about 0.004\"\" thick) gets you close to your appropriate standoff. However, if you adjust your layer thickness, your standoff should reflect this. Ideally, you will set your standoff roughly with a piece of paper or other type of shim stock, then \"\"fine-tune\"\" the standoff during a benchmark print.\n\nIf I'm remembering correctly, the ideal standoff is 1/2 to 2/3 your desired layer height.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n2945,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ageis,2.8153892694839717,4.936439343979863,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,stl files -measuring stl files,\"I had a problem with my Z limit switch bracket falling just short of the bottom edge of the z stage. \n\nI'm trying to make the bracket thicker so it's pushed more towards the left. \n\n1) how do I measure the thickness of the bracket in the stl\n2) HOw would I make it thicker if it is indeed too thin\n\n\n\nIt's might to be mounted standing up right. \n\nI want to make it thicker x axis (if it's stood up)\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Consider to provide additional information regarding the software you use and the source information of the STL file. I will make some general suggestions that you can implement to resolve your problem.\n\nMeshmixer is a free program that has the ability to measure overall dimensions as well as point-to-point locations within an STL model. Import the STL, select Analysis followed by Dimensions to get the overall information. For point to point, the interface is less intuitive and I would suggest a YouTube search for a tutorial.\n\nWithout seeing the part, I cannot suggest a specific sequence. If you are able to visualize the action of stretching the part in a single direction, Meshmixer also allows that:\n\nSelect Edit, Transform and note the three-axis tool which will appear in the model. Each arrow has a small box at the end. Grab the appropriate box with your mouse and move in the desired direction. It will stretch/distort the model on all surfaces in the direction you move. There will be a digital reference showing during this process, allowing you to more precisely set the increase in thickness.\n\nIf there are holes in the same plane as the bracket you wish to thicken, they will become longer if on the same axis, or they will distort severely as you increase the thickness.\n\nYou can use Meshmixer to perform a plane cut to separate the model into individual parts to avoid undesired distortion.\n\nPlease provide an image of the model and an indication of the portion you wish to increase.\n\nEDIT after photo and some clarification. Your last line has valuable information. Thicker x axis if it's stood up implies thicker z axis in photo. That's the easiest location for that model. It would take me about 30 seconds to stretch it in Meshmixer. If you attempted it yourself, it might take you two or three minutes.\n\nI agree with the post by \"\"plaintoothpaste\"\" that it would be easier if you had the source file. I use OpenSCAD and adjustments are simply a matter of changing a number in a text file, while other software, for example, SolidWorks requires that you find the parameter and modify it to your requirements. \n\nBecause of the shape of the model, the first reference I provided (Dimensions) would give you the thickness and as a bonus, you can change the number in that window to the desired figure. Export the model and you're done. Far simpler than using the transform tool, if not as much fun overall.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n2945,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ageis,2.8153892694839717,4.936439343979863,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,stl files -measuring stl files,\"I had a problem with my Z limit switch bracket falling just short of the bottom edge of the z stage. \n\nI'm trying to make the bracket thicker so it's pushed more towards the left. \n\n1) how do I measure the thickness of the bracket in the stl\n2) HOw would I make it thicker if it is indeed too thin\n\n\n\nIt's might to be mounted standing up right. \n\nI want to make it thicker x axis (if it's stood up)\n\",plaintoothpaste,\"If you have the original CAD file this would be far easier to modify and maintain then an STL.\n\nMeshLab also has the capability to measure the view on the screen as well as bounding box measurements. Bounding box measurements should be possible in any pre-processor you use for slicing STL files though.\n\nMeshLab can also be used to scale, merge or translate your STL if desired. however I would also recommend mesh mixer as it is more user-friendly.\n\nThe last option if you have any coding experience, an STL file can be easily read and then you could select the desired vertices and measure/move them and then rewrite out the STL file. There are libraries for most major coding languages for dealing with STL files.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n3023,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ageis,3.267423727073639,4.892169733713208,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.878685800062712,\"How to offset my probe so it's not hanging off the bed at 0, 0 position when printing\",\"I had my printer printing fine when using the stock trigger switch as I used it to print the green bracket you see in the picture. \n\n\n\nMy problem now is when I do a print with the sensor, it moves to 0,0 position. However in this position the sensor is hanging off the bed hence there is nothing for it detect so it crashes into the bed.\n\nAs far as I can tell the nozzle is homing in the right place.\n\nHow do I tell Marlin the new minimum position it needs to be in so it doesn't crash into the bed?\n\",Mikhail Z,\"There are at least 2 options to address the problem that you have:\n\n\nAdjust end-stops so that in 0,0 position Z-sensor would still hang above the printing table. This would reduce printing surface but allow perfect calibration\nMount extra metal plate at the table mount where it would not bump into printer parts and remain reachable for the sensor (perhaps with sensor relocation) when positioned at 0,0. This option requires extra space within table movement boundaries but saves printing surface.\n\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n3023,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ageis,3.267423727073639,4.892169733713208,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.878685800062712,\"How to offset my probe so it's not hanging off the bed at 0, 0 position when printing\",\"I had my printer printing fine when using the stock trigger switch as I used it to print the green bracket you see in the picture. \n\n\n\nMy problem now is when I do a print with the sensor, it moves to 0,0 position. However in this position the sensor is hanging off the bed hence there is nothing for it detect so it crashes into the bed.\n\nAs far as I can tell the nozzle is homing in the right place.\n\nHow do I tell Marlin the new minimum position it needs to be in so it doesn't crash into the bed?\n\",0scar,\"It is not a problem that the sensor is not above the build plate during printing as long as it is above the build plate during the auto bed levelling sequence.\n\nHoming does not necessarily need to be the (0,0) coordinate. Usually, a printer homes on the endstop switches, from that coordinate an offset is defined in the firmware to move to the origin. This implies that (depending on the position of the sensor), the sensor may be outside the bed area when the nozzle is at the origin (0, 0)). Therefore, similarly, you need to tell the printer the location of the Z sensor with respect to the nozzle position in order for the printer to keep the sensor on the bed when levelling by setting boundaries for the sensor to reach.\n\n\n\nE.g. for Marlin firmware the offset from homing to the bed origin is defined for an Anet A8 by:\n\n#define X_MIN_POS -33\n#define Y_MIN_POS -10\n\n\nThe values you should use need to correspond to the actual offset from the homing point to the origin of the bed (0,0).\n\nWhen using an auto bed leveling sensor like you are using you should consider this remark:\n\n\n If using a Probe for Z Homing, enable Z_SAFE_HOMING also!\n\n\nUn-comment the proper line in the configuration file to read:\n\n#define Z_SAFE_HOMING\n\n\nThis will make the printer aware of the sensor, and home Z in the middle of the bed (default behavior, but can be changed), so that your sensor is never off the bed when probing the bed for Z homing.\n\nFurthermore, you need to set the offset values of the center of your sensor to the nozzle center:\n\n * Z Probe to nozzle (X,Y) offset, relative to (0, 0).\n * X and Y offsets must be integers.\n *\n * In the following example the X and Y offsets are both positive:\n * #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10\n * #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10\n *\n * +-- BACK ---+\n * | |\n * L | (+) P | R <-- probe (20,20)\n * E | | I\n * F | (-) N (+) | G <-- nozzle (10,10)\n * T | | H\n * | (-) | T\n * | |\n * O-- FRONT --+\n * (0,0)\n */\n#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER XXX // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]\n#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER YYY // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]\n#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]\n\n\nWhere XXX and YYY are your actual values.\n\nAnd set the boundary of the probing section:\n\n// Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).\n#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 15\n#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 190\n#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 15\n#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 170\n\n\nNote that the values should match your bed size!\n\nAnd:\n\n// The Z probe minimum outer margin (to validate G29 parameters).\n#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 10\n\n\nDetails on setting the boundaries of the bed to keep the sensor on the bed is described in question \"\"How to set Z-probe boundary limits in firmware when using automatic bed leveling?\"\".\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3088,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ageis,2.1782824847157594,4.36292599610855,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Can you replace broken 100k thermistor with thermocouple - potentially blown analogue input as well,\"I have bought myself an I3 3D printer - it comes with a thermistor which is then placed into a hole in the hotend and held in place by a grub screw. \n\nSadly due to my lack of care I managed to crush the wires with a pair of vice pliers whilst trying to remove the nozzle as it was clogged. \n\nI have since unblocked it but now every time I turn on the 3D printer instead of giving a minimum temperature error it says it's 260°C - even if it's left off all night and I unplugged the thermistor. Otherwise, it seems to be fine.\n\nI want to know can I just replace it with a thermocouple and a Maxim amplifier board (the one that Marlin supports, I forget the name)? The thermocouple I have in mind is one that has the junction exposed (see image below), does this matter?\n\n\n\nI plan to re-route it in the firmware to use A15 instead as I believe I must have blown the analogue input, right?\n\n\n\",Randy Steck,\"Thermistors and thermocouples are different animals. A thermistor changes resistance based on the temperature at the junction. A thermocouple generates a small voltage (mV range) which varies depending on the temperature. Higher temps typically use a thermocouple because thermistors tend to not be as accurate at those elevated temps.\n\nMy printer uses thermocouples, and it appears that yours does also. I'm not sure what you mean by \"\"crushed\"\", but you can check to see if the wires are shorted to the heat block or to each other. It is unlikely that you've damaged the input to the control board by doing this. Shorted wires can give the same readings as no thermocouple attached. You can also get errors induced through ground isolation if wires are shorted to the heating block.\n\nChanging this out for a different system with a different input amplifier sounds like a nightmare in the making, and I'd only attempt it if I could not fix the existing problem or find a direct replacement.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3900,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ageis,0.0,2.717179978327238,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Parts printing out bigger after changing controller,\"I changed my original HICTOP controller for one which actually has some fuses.\n\nI tried to print a part last night - the resultant print looks significantly bigger.\n\nDo you need to recalibrate the stepper per unit after you've changed your controller?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"A quick search for your specific controller brought up the following link:\nhictop wiki page\nin which a reference is made that some printers were shipped with incorrect firmware, specifically in error by a factor of six. If your prints are about six times larger, this may apply to you. The same page contains a link to the firmware.\n\nYou should also be able to \"\"look inside\"\" the firmware using any number of programs providing terminal access to the controller. Pronterface is one, Simplify3D (not free) is another. I'm fond of using OctoPrint, but it requires some \"\"gymnastics\"\" to install.\n\nOnce you've installed your selected software, open the terminal feature and type M503 to display the current settings. You may have to turn off some automatic terminal display features, as some controllers will repeatedly send data to the screen, causing inconvenient scrolling.\n\nI attempted to locate the correct code sequence for your printer, with limited success. Consider to scan over the wiki page for the appropriate information and correlate it to your specific controller and printer:\nFirmware reprap codes\n\nYou'd want to confirm a specific M-code to change the stepper figure to match that which is for your printer. I've done my extruder steppers recently, which is M92 for my controller. My quick scan of the codes in the above link shows M350 might be the one for you, but don't take my word on it, get a confirmation from another source specific to your printer.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n3915,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ageis,1.0891412423578797,5.277919850264034,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,E3D-v6 hotend on MK8 extruder,\"I have an MK8Makerbot(?) extruder on my HICTOP branded printer. \n\nThe problem with the E3D hotend is that the heatbreak is shorter and doesn't protrude through the top of the heatsink. Therefore I can't mount it to the motor mount.\n\n\n\nAny ideas?\n\",Trotski94,\"For reference, I have the same printer and am speaking from my experiences.\n\nYou have two routes you can take with this, but both are effectively the same result - you need to replace the X carriage.\n\nIf you want to re-use your existing extruder components you can pull the MK8 extruder off the X carriage and use it as the extruder to drive a bowden configuration, then all you need is a length of PTFE tube and the couplers between the E3d and the MK8 to hold the tube. This is probably the best solution as it takes a lot of weight off of the X-carriage resulting in significantly better print quality, the only downside is that printing with flexible filaments is a lot more difficult with a bowden configuration, if you intended to do a lot of that.\n\nThe other option (and the one I took) is to print an entire new x-carriage/extruder assembly. Because the Anet A8 is based off the Prusa and the Z/X carriage assemblies are basically the same as the original Prusa I3 you can just take any design for the Prusa and fit it onto the Anet, I did this with a gregs wade extruder & E3D hotend mount I found on thingiverse.\n\nI didnt look too hard, but if you are adament on wanting to keep the MK8 extruder on the X-carriage and couple it direct-driven to the V6, you can probably find some x-carriage that lines the two up for this purpose (or you could even design one yourself if you are interested in doing so). I didn't look in to this route myself, so cannot give much guidance.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n3989,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ageis,2.528907649931287,5.536892403775005,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.548335113978322,3.9829738809469584,Can you print at 0.3 mm with a 0.2 mm nozzle?,\"I recently ordered some spare E3D 0.4 mm nozzles. However, there was a mix up at the factory and they delivered 0.2 mm nozzles instead.\n\nI usually print at 0.3 mm using a 0.4 mm nozzle. Can I still use the 0.2 mm nozzles to print at a resolution of 0.3 mm? \n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"To get the best results, the plastic coming out of the nozzle needs to be squished/ironed down by the nozzle. If you are using a higher layer height than nozzle size, this does not happen. Instead, you are taking a 0.2mm diameter string of plastic and folding it back onto itself to create a thicker 0.3mm bead.\n\nTriffid_Hunter's calibration guide recommends using a layer height that is not higher than 80% of your nozzle size, so with a 0.4mm nozzle you should not print layers thicker than 0.32mm, and with a 0.2mm nozzle you should not print layers thicker than 0.16mm.\n\nWhile it is not impossible to print thicker layers with a smaller nozzle, the results won't be as good. Moreover, if you are used to working with a 0.4mm nozzle then swapping to a 0.2mm nozzle may take some getting used to, as printing with smaller nozzles is more difficult (for example, the smaller the nozzle, the higher the likelihood of clogs).\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n4032,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ageis,1.726248027126092,3.3570615728962325,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Continuing a failed print when you have Auto Mesh Bed Leveling,\"When you have Auto Mesh Bed Leveling enabled on your printer, it's not possible to continue a failed print, is it?\n\",Davo,\"Continuing a failed print has nothing to do with automatic bed leveling. It has everything to do with knowing which line failed, repositioning to resume from that point, and resuming from that line of code.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5236,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ageis,1.726248027126092,4.253140339767968,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,how to get infill on self created stl via onshapes,\"I created my model in onshape then exported it to stl file then imported it to simplify 3d to convert to gcode.\n\nHowever my model didn't go any in fill, it just continue to print layer after layer in the same fasion as the 1st layer. \n\nCorrect me if am wrong infill is used so that the middle of your model isn't completely solid hence saving on filament.\n\nIs there something special I need to do in onshape or simplify 3d for it to use infill? To me it looked like it was just filling it up with pla \n\",fred_dot_u,\"The infill portion of your model is configured during the Simplify3D process. After loading your STL file into S3D, edit the process and examine the Infill tab and Infill slider. You'll see a percentage indicator, as well as an extruder selection (left or right, if you have two) to be used for the infill. There are other options within the configuration that would have little to no effect on the problem you are experiencing.\n\nOnce you have checked and corrected the settings as needed, used the prepare-to-print option and press the play button for a preview to see the infill being printed before you send it to the printer.\n\n100% infill is impractical, and one can create strong models with as low as 20% infill.\n\nInfill is used to save filament, as you suggest, but it is also used to provide support for top layers on areas that are not vertical. Sometimes, one would use a higher infill figure to provide for smoother top surfaces although increasing the layer count for top/bottom can accomplish that.\n\nCheck your top/bottom layer figure in the layers tab to ensure you have a reasonable figure. Three or four layers are good for cosmetic reasons, more if you need additional strength. Anything higher or absurdly high would cause some of the trouble you describe.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5236,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ageis,1.726248027126092,4.253140339767968,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,how to get infill on self created stl via onshapes,\"I created my model in onshape then exported it to stl file then imported it to simplify 3d to convert to gcode.\n\nHowever my model didn't go any in fill, it just continue to print layer after layer in the same fasion as the 1st layer. \n\nCorrect me if am wrong infill is used so that the middle of your model isn't completely solid hence saving on filament.\n\nIs there something special I need to do in onshape or simplify 3d for it to use infill? To me it looked like it was just filling it up with pla \n\",mac,\"I don't use either of the two piece of software, but the first things to pop to mind:\n\n\nInspect the slicing preview: it should be self-evident if your GCODE is being generated correctly. In my slicer the infill is red and you can discern the typical pattern within:\n\n\n\n\n\nCheck your settings: your shell thickness should be something reasonable (like 0.8mm / 2 shells) and your infill should also be below 100% if you don't want to print it solid. For maximum strength, it doesn't help go much over 60%, typical values for light-duty parts are 20% and 30%.\nCheck your STL file: your mesh should be a closed surface, a \"\"shell\"\". Or the slicer won't be able to know what is \"\"inside\"\" and \"\"outside\"\". Many slicers verify this for you automatically and have a built-in utility to attempt to \"\"repair\"\" a broken mesh. I use slic3r Prusa Edition and this information is visualised at the bottom right:\n\n\n\n\n\nLet the print finish: the wording of your question is ambiguous, but it sounds like you may have stopped the printer before the part finished. Certain combination of settings can be deceitful. For example, a layer height of 0.05mm and a shell thickness of 2mm means you will see the printer making 40 (forty!) layers of solid printing, before starting to create the infill.\nTry another slicer: in case your slicer went berserk because of a bug (unlikely but possible), this should fix it.\n\n\nOn an unrelated note: the use of infill has a lot of different reasons besides \"\"saving filament\"\", for example:\n\n\nrelative to an empty print, even a very light infill (5%) provides a lot of added rigidity,\nrelative to a solid print, infill reduces weight and relief the tensions that are trapped in the FDM/FFF printing process\ncertain infill patterns allow to provide different responses to stressed in different directions (like for example a crash box that needs to give way in one direction but bear a load in another, or a wing that need to flex on its length but not on its chord)\ninfill provide support for top layers and other concave structures that may otherwise be non-printable\n...\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2832,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dudu721,3.452496054252184,5.176797521076277,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Is it possible to make a hermetic sealed 3D Printed case?,\"I am wondering if making an hermetic box is feasible using 3D printer. The box would be a cube with a front face removable, with screw and sealing joint to close it.\nI searched for different materials, however, none talks about hermiticity. (However, I found a product that seems to improve water resistance of 3D printed items here, which might be a starting point) \n\nDoes anyone have experienced to make hermetic things ? I am specially interested in carbon fiber reinforced materials.\n\",fukanchik,\"I have very little experience printing waterproof stuff.\n\nI printed a flower pot in ABS some time ago. Right after print it was leaking water. Then I processed the pot with acetone vapour to create a layer of melted ABS on the surface of the pot and then it became water-proof.\n\nAs another option for non-solvable in acetone materials like PLA I would rub in some sealant paste to the surface, but I never have actually tried that.\n\nAnother thing to consider: you should think carefully about your design and may be even conduct few experiments to verify printed part meets your mechanical criteria. Unlike injection molding, FDM prints are breaking more easily in some directions.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n2832,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dudu721,3.452496054252184,5.176797521076277,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Is it possible to make a hermetic sealed 3D Printed case?,\"I am wondering if making an hermetic box is feasible using 3D printer. The box would be a cube with a front face removable, with screw and sealing joint to close it.\nI searched for different materials, however, none talks about hermiticity. (However, I found a product that seems to improve water resistance of 3D printed items here, which might be a starting point) \n\nDoes anyone have experienced to make hermetic things ? I am specially interested in carbon fiber reinforced materials.\n\",Chris Thompson,\"A few thoughts that might help...\n\nMaterial:\n\n\nABS can be vapor smoothed with Acetone which results in the layers sort of \"\"melting\"\" together to form a smoother, and less porous surface.\nOther plastics can be smoothed with compatible solvents, but I've not tried solvent smoothing with anything other than ABS. Be careful if you try.\n\n\nPrint Method:\n\n\nConsider slightly higher print temps to increase layer adhesion. You'll likely have to compensate with extra retraction to avoid excessive stringing.\nConsider more perimeter layers and more top/bottom layers.\nThe CF materials are stiffened with chopped CF strands...I think it's a stretch to call them \"\"reinforced\"\" unless you happen to have a Markforged printer or similar.\n\n\nSealants: This is probably your best bet.\n\n\nEpoxy: Generally considered effective for producing hermetically sealed containers. Dip or brush on. Mind your VOC's and pay attention to working time.\nPlasti-dip or similar sealants: These may be good enough for your application and result in a rubbery coating over your part. Good for water sealing, and may be close enough to hermetically sealed for your needs.\n\n\nDesign:\n\n\nTo mechanically seal the opening, there are many options depending on your requirements. O-rings, gaskets, etc. If you use a rubberized dip, you may be able to skip the gasket. You could install a few threaded inserts around the perimeter of the opening, put in the screws, then dip. After drying, you slice around the screw and remove it (this just keeps the coating out of your threads) Dip the cover as well. Then when you screw on the cover, it will provide a water-tight seal. To help make a good seal, apply a silicone grease to the mating surface.\n\n\nI hope this helps. :-)\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n2845,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Noah,2.528907649931287,4.62826250945311,0.0,5.199501240805782,1.1827783713261073,0.6444807912433421,3d Key not strong enough,\"I 3d-printed a key.\n\n\nWhen I put it in the lock the pins move but, when I go to turn it the key rips and the lock doesn't turn. I compared it to the real key and it's identical. Is there something I can do to make it work and not rip? Is there some filament that I can print it out of? I used ABS.\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"\"\"You're going to need a bigger boat^H^H^H^H filament\"\" . Perhaps one of the carbon-fiber-loaded filaments will hold up, or perhaps a bunch of silicone spray dumped into the lock cylinder is needed. \n\nIf you want to get really fancy, start with a thin metal key blank and deposit the filament around that. This might give you enough structural strength. I don't know exactly how you'd print on three sides, as typical RepRaps and their ilk aren't set up to work around an object. Possibly printing with the key vertical and zero infil would allow you to insert a metal stiffener after printing.\n\",0.0,0.0\n2845,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Noah,2.528907649931287,4.62826250945311,0.0,5.199501240805782,1.1827783713261073,0.6444807912433421,3d Key not strong enough,\"I 3d-printed a key.\n\n\nWhen I put it in the lock the pins move but, when I go to turn it the key rips and the lock doesn't turn. I compared it to the real key and it's identical. Is there something I can do to make it work and not rip? Is there some filament that I can print it out of? I used ABS.\n\",Chris Thompson,\"I must admit, I've never printed a key...but I think I can help anyway:\n\nPrint method:\nConsider printing on side, solid concentric infill. Or, if you can't manipulate your infill pattern, just increase the perimeter so you get the same effect, several continuous perimeter layers around the outline of the key.\n\nPrint material:\n\n\nElongation before break is important here in addition to tensile strength...you need it to be stiff enough, but not brittle. \nABS, PLA, or HIPS: Not likely to be successful...but maybe.\nPETG and PETG based filaments like T-Glase, N-Vent, nGen, INOVA-1800: A little better, but still likely to deform and/or break. \n\n\nPolycarbonate: Great for this, but is a fairly advanced material which tends to require pre-drying, enclosures, and PVA for hold down as well as a hot end that can handle at least 290C.\nNylons: Good, but most Nylons may be more \"\"bendy\"\" than you want for this.\nTaulman's Alloy 910: Bingo. This should work nicely if you'd rather not struggle with printing polycarbonate. Alloy 910 prints near ABS settings, sticks well on a PVA-treated heated bed. (I use 85C for bed)\nI would not suggest a CF filled filament for this because they tend to be brittle. Matter Hacker's NylonX with CF is a possible exception since it's nylon based, but I haven't tested it...yet. \n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n2848,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trotski94,3.452496054252184,3.8134589853981136,2.7799718631987322,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Take a detailed model and make it suitable for 3D printing?,\"I have a model I would like to print, specifically it is a free-for-personal-use model of a car, complete with interior.\n\nI would like to print it, but it is unprintable. I have tried to fix it in netfabb, which works OK. But now I realised I have another problem - the inside of the car is hollow, and has a full interior. I just want the shell of the car and a solid block (complete with opaque 'windows').\n\nHow would I take a detailed model and somehow extract a solid 3D printable model from it?\n\",fukanchik,\"I would recommend \"\"The Maker's Muse\"\" youtube video channel.\n\nIn particular this video Fixing impossible STL's with Meshmixer 3.1.118 BETA might solve your problem.\n\nFew other videos which might help:\n\n\nHow to make Engineering Assemblies 3D Printable using Meshmixer\nAdd smoothness to your meshes using remeshing! 3D 101\nA Detailed look at Processes and Profiles in Simplify3D\nTidy up your prints with the Modifi3D\nHow to Print Bigger Things - 3D Printing 101\n\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n2909,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trotski94,2.1782824847157594,4.850578694711358,0.0,5.199501240805782,2.3655567426522146,1.5102156081937064,When leveling hotend always slams into bed?,\"If the hot-end is at ~0 on the Z axis and I go to level it, as it approaches X = 0 it begins scraping along the bed, then when moving back to probe the center of the bed (after homing X to 0) it will scrape the bed again.\n\nI want to add a glass plate but am worried this aggressive homing will smash the glass. How can I fix it? The printer auto-levels and runs Marlin.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Marlin has a Z_RAISE_BETWEEN_PROBINGS setting that allows you to, well, raise the Z-axis before it moves to the next probe point. Increasing this value may solve the issue.\n\nAuto leveling only compensates for skew of the bed, but it doesn't compensate for a non-planar bed. If your bed is bowed (apparently you're not using glass yet, so I assume you have a plain PCB which is quite susceptible to this) and due to this is higher in some spots than others, then the auto leveling may cause the hotend to scrape the high spots of the bed.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n2909,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trotski94,2.1782824847157594,4.850578694711358,0.0,5.199501240805782,2.3655567426522146,1.5102156081937064,When leveling hotend always slams into bed?,\"If the hot-end is at ~0 on the Z axis and I go to level it, as it approaches X = 0 it begins scraping along the bed, then when moving back to probe the center of the bed (after homing X to 0) it will scrape the bed again.\n\nI want to add a glass plate but am worried this aggressive homing will smash the glass. How can I fix it? The printer auto-levels and runs Marlin.\n\",Trotski94,\"I realised the simplest fix for this shortly after posting the question. In either your slicer or your printer controller (I use octoprint, so I added this there) add to the starting G-code something to lift the head so that it is above the point it is scraping across.\n\nFor example, change your starting G-code from something like:\n\nG28 ;Home all axis\nG29 ;probe bed\n\n\nTo\n\nG91 ;Set to relative positioning\nG0 Z10 ;move head up by 10mm\n\nG28 ;Home all axis\nG29 ;probe bed\n\n\n(obviously remove G29 if you do not have a probe)\n\n10mm should be more than enough to lift by unless you have something seriously wrong, but you can adjust the figure as needed.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n2849,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user123456,2.528907649931287,3.2591265203387754,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Can I print jewelry without any loss of the precious metal?,\"What is the 3D printing technology that allow to have minimal loss in precious metals when 3D printing jewels?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The jewelry industry typically uses printers that print in wax, and transform the models into precious metal by lost wax casting. Statasys offers wax printing in their Solidscape line, 3D systems offers ProJet. With this process there is basically no waste, since you can remelt the casting sprues.\n\nI am not aware of printers that print directly in precious metal. It might technically be possible with DMLS but you have to fill up the entire machine with metal powder, which is cost prohibitive (and potentially more wasteful).\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n2854,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BrainSlugs83,3.452496054252184,5.324667363531048,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.9505769891325135,Connector Suggestion for Extruder and Heatbed,\"On my Reprap-like 3D printer, I routed all the wires to a spot near the base; for the motors, endstops, thermistors, etc, I plugged them all into a DB25 breakout board, and that's working great.\n\nFor my Extruder (12v), and my heat bed (16v), I'm using a 4-pin molex connector -- like we used to use for old hard drives and such, and it's working, but it gets a bit hot, and my print bed is having trouble reaching temperatures that it didn't have trouble with before. -- None of the wiring gets hot at any other point, and none of the other connectors get hot. -- The only thing that gets hot is this one molex connector.\n\nI believe the heat is caused by passing too much current through that molex connector. -- I'm curious to know what other connectors might be better suited to this task. Can you recommend something that's worked well for you, or others?\n\nI prefer not to double or triple up this connector if it can be avoided, so that I can just have one physical connector to disconnect there, and so that I don't end up mixing them up. -- also, being able to easily disconnect it is important (it's hard to work on the reprap if I can't spin it around or turn it over, etc., that's why I'm using connectors for everything).\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"You might be able to use one of the connectors (Deans Ultra, EC3, XT-60/30, Bullet) that are normally used for RC models. They're made for very high currents. The XT60 connectors depicted below are rated for 60A continuous (well above what you'd need for any heated bed); their smaller XT30 cousins are good for 30A but less commonly available.\n\n\n(Photo by Mark Fickett)\n\nFor your extruder you wouldn't need anything quite as drastic as an XT60, even a simple JST connector would suffice (though if you are going to source XT60/30's for your heated bed anyway, you might use them here as well).\n\n\n(Wikimedia Commons, Mike Mahoney)\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n2854,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BrainSlugs83,3.452496054252184,5.324667363531048,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.9505769891325135,Connector Suggestion for Extruder and Heatbed,\"On my Reprap-like 3D printer, I routed all the wires to a spot near the base; for the motors, endstops, thermistors, etc, I plugged them all into a DB25 breakout board, and that's working great.\n\nFor my Extruder (12v), and my heat bed (16v), I'm using a 4-pin molex connector -- like we used to use for old hard drives and such, and it's working, but it gets a bit hot, and my print bed is having trouble reaching temperatures that it didn't have trouble with before. -- None of the wiring gets hot at any other point, and none of the other connectors get hot. -- The only thing that gets hot is this one molex connector.\n\nI believe the heat is caused by passing too much current through that molex connector. -- I'm curious to know what other connectors might be better suited to this task. Can you recommend something that's worked well for you, or others?\n\nI prefer not to double or triple up this connector if it can be avoided, so that I can just have one physical connector to disconnect there, and so that I don't end up mixing them up. -- also, being able to easily disconnect it is important (it's hard to work on the reprap if I can't spin it around or turn it over, etc., that's why I'm using connectors for everything).\n\",TextGeek,\"I've had great luck with \"\"G16 aviation connectors\"\" -- easy to find with a Web search, and they come in any number of pins from 2-10 (the 10s are a little harder to find). Round (so easy to panel-mount), metal barrels, locking ring so they don't come loose. If you get ones with a couple extra pins, you can double up on pins without having to double up on actual connectors. I used a 4-pin for the hot bed (2 power, 2 thermistor); 10-pin for the extruders (4 motor, 2 heater, 2 thermistor, 2 fan), and 8-pin for each axis (4 motor, 4 limit).\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2862,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BrainSlugs83,3.452496054252184,5.485964775610562,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.488653845767225,Keeping my filament spools from getting knotted?,\"This is something I've ignored for awhile, but it keeps cropping up, and occasionally, if the filament snags real good, it can mess up a great print half way through, etc.\n\nBasically I have my filament spools hanging on a PVC pipe mounted directly above the printer, and the printer just sucks it in from the spool, but occasionally it becomes knotted at the spool, or becomes otherwise tangled.\n\nI'm thinking even if I completely unwrapped and rewrapped all of my spools so there was no trace of a tangle, what's to stop it from happening again? -- What's a good strategy for managing this kind of issue?\n\nEdit: From some of the answers below, it seems that maybe the travel of my X carriage back and forth could be why my spools keep getting tangled. -- It looks like many people have their spools at about 90 degrees from mine (rotated relative to the Z axis of the printer), so that the travel of the X carriage won't have that affect. -- Also guides, etc are probably a good idea.\n\nHere's my current setup for reference (filament removed):\n\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Always keep track of the loose end of the filament. It's either in your extruder, or fixed to the spool (either with a clip or clothespin or just by threading it through the holes which are usually in the rim of the spool, provided for just this purpose). The only way a spool can get tangled is if you let go of the loose end of filament.\n\nThough not technically tangled your filament can also get stuck if the spool does not properly unwind (and the filament gets wrapped around the axle that supports your spool). Make sure your spool can rotate on its holder easily (ball bearings are not needed, a simple round axle is enough). Make sure that your printer pulls on the middle of the spool, and not sideways. If necessary, could build a guide (such as a small ring or tube for the filament to pass through) to keep it centered.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n2862,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BrainSlugs83,3.452496054252184,5.485964775610562,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.488653845767225,Keeping my filament spools from getting knotted?,\"This is something I've ignored for awhile, but it keeps cropping up, and occasionally, if the filament snags real good, it can mess up a great print half way through, etc.\n\nBasically I have my filament spools hanging on a PVC pipe mounted directly above the printer, and the printer just sucks it in from the spool, but occasionally it becomes knotted at the spool, or becomes otherwise tangled.\n\nI'm thinking even if I completely unwrapped and rewrapped all of my spools so there was no trace of a tangle, what's to stop it from happening again? -- What's a good strategy for managing this kind of issue?\n\nEdit: From some of the answers below, it seems that maybe the travel of my X carriage back and forth could be why my spools keep getting tangled. -- It looks like many people have their spools at about 90 degrees from mine (rotated relative to the Z axis of the printer), so that the travel of the X carriage won't have that affect. -- Also guides, etc are probably a good idea.\n\nHere's my current setup for reference (filament removed):\n\n\",EvilTeach,\"I had the same problem with my FFC dual.\n\nConsider using some kind of retaing clip to hold the spool in place, so it doesn't move back and forth on the post. This worked for me.\n\nAnother thing that can help is to make sure you are pulling the filament from the middle of the spool. This worked for me.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n2935,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BrainSlugs83,2.1782824847157594,3.8756049100976995,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"Good sources of filament \"\"sampler\"\" pack?\",\"The local stores have started to stop selling filaments in the smaller 0.5 kg spools, and it's getting harder to maintain an assortment without buying lots of big spools.\n\nI mainly just want a bunch of different colors (red, black, blue, green, etc.), ideally as a bunch of small spool \"\"samples\"\" or like a \"\"sampler pack\"\". -- Even if they're at .25 kg spool sizes... -- I don't want to spend a ton of money on buying and storing a ton of 1.0kg - 2.0kg spools.\n\nI prefer to print in PLA, but ABS is fine. I can only print 1.75mm filament.\n\nThe seller should to be able to ship to western US, and have filament of decent quality that's not going to ruin my printer.\n\nWhat do you recommend?\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"Amazon, of course. I found a pack of 20 colors, maybe 50g each or so, 1.75 PLA. (that link is direct to this product).\n\nedit:\n\nWell, dang, I blinked at that particular item is off the list. Here are two other multicolor packages currently available (2PM EDT 20 Oct 2016)\n\none , and ... two \n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n3053,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BrainSlugs83,2.1782824847157594,3.3206222047196907,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Converting Injection Molded STLs to printable STLs,\"I bought a 3D printer kit a few years ago, and it's been working pretty well, the kit was made with injection molded parts. -- It's similar to a Huxley, and through the years, it's started to turn into a repstrap as I've repaired it with non-printed parts.\n\nThe parts are all open source and the STLs are provided by the maker, but they're optimized for injection molding, so instead of having flat surfaces, the surfaces usually have a lot of extra support going on -- here's an example of what I'm talking about:\n\n\n\nMind you, this is one of the simpler parts. -- But mostly I just want to clean these parts up -- make the edges flat by \"\"filling in\"\" these gaps (because: 1. it will print easier, 2. I can let my slicer handle the infill for me, etc.)\n\nCurrently, I've been using mostly TinkerCad and trying to make little rectangles and other shapes and boolean union them together to fill these gaps. But this is a lot of work, trying to get it just right without covering up important gaps or leaving pockets in the middle of the part is very time consuming and error prone.\n\nAdditionally, I'd like to be able to make minor beveled edges so that the parts are easy to peel up. -- I currently do this with boolean subtractions of a bevel shape I made (again, in TinkerCad).\n\nIs there any software out there that makes these options easier? -- What's the easiest way to fill in these gaps and add beveled edges? -- I'm hoping to spend no more than 10 to 15 minutes per part. (Right now, it's hours.)\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Although the foundation of your question is aimed at getting an opinion, I find nothing wrong with that, as long as answers are provided with an equal foundation based on facts.\n\nI'm a fan of Meshmixer (free) but it's not well suited for this project, in my belief (opinion) as it's primarily aimed at organic modeling. On the flip side of this point is the fact that you have a working STL from which to build. Meshmixer will enable you to extrude the portions that sit below the surface level and create a flat plane. You can also \"\"bridge\"\" the elevated portions into a plane, but only if you remove the lower panels first. Leaving them in place creates an unprintable model.\n\nOf course, Meshmixer has its own learning curve. \n\nAlong the same train of thought, Blender (free) is suited for performing similar tasks, again aimed at organic models. Again, starting with your STL makes it less of a complication.\n\nUnfortunately, in my opinion, Blender's learning curve is substantially steeper, as the program does many things unrelated to 3d printing. It has spectacular control over the model and if you are able to learn the necessary controls and sequences, there isn't anything you can't do with it.\n\nMeshmixer is more intuitive than Blender and therefore easier to learn. You may also find it easier to find YouTube resources for Meshmixer actions than similarly for Blender, mostly because the phrasing of your search will be clearer with Meshmixer.\n\nAs an example, one would create face groups of your STL. Various segments would then turn colors. You select the depressed face group and say, \"\"cheer up\"\" then delete that group. Using the appropriate tool, which currently escapes my alleged mind, you'd then bridge those faces remaining after the delete. What was once a shallow pool becomes a flat contiguous surface.\n\nI would recommend using Lynda.com tutorial material if you can find it. There is also a resource called Honeypoint which somewhat specializes in Meshmixer tutorials.\n\nNot out of the question is to engage the free Fusion 360 program and use all those YouTube resources, among others, to import your STL and create extrusions and modifications you require. Our local library has an agreement with Lynda.com which provides free access to Lynda.com's tutorial library. Conveniently for me, it has a great collection for Fusion 360.\n\nI've become so accustomed to manipulating models in the above software and other programs that I attempted to rotate your image to see the other side! If this is one of the simpler ones, you have quite a job ahead of you!\n\nBe sure to use an STL printability checker program to ensure your resulting models are workable. Meshmixer has that feature built in and a couple online services will repair your model free. One service I attempted to use destroyed the model, while the Microsoft version did not, but created a .3MF format. That added one more step to get it reconverted to .STL, but the results justified the effort.\n\nGood luck\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2864,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,MOTIVECODEX,3.618048892289167,5.882535669729225,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Z offset incorrect,\"Repetier host 1.6.2.\nUsed Slic3r and CuraEngine in RH1.6.2 to slice my prints.\n\nOK, I've a problem.. Z offset does not work.. Well..\n\n\nFlashed EEPROM clear.\nEnabled EEPROM and CHIT CHAT within firmware.\nI've set -0.4 in Marlin firmware 1.0.2-1 stable and flashed it.\n\n\nG28; home axis = works\nG29; auto level = works\nG28; it goes to home and then sets Z to 0.4\nG1 Z0; brings nozzle down from 0.4 to 0, so this works also.\n\nBut when I slice with Repetier host 1.6.2 with latest slicer / curaengine, it does not go down 0.4 mm before starting to print.\nI've set first layer to 0.2mm, but when it starts printing the first layer, it goes from 0.4 (after home Z is on 0.4) to 0.6 instead of 0.2! ...\n\nHow to fix this?\n\nGcode start: \n;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 15.01\n; Default start code\nG28 ; Home extruder\nG29 ; Auto level\nG1 Z15 F100\nM107 ; Turn off fan\nG90 ; Absolute positioning\nM82 ; Extruder in absolute mode\nM190 S35\n; Activate all used extruder\nM104 T0 S230\nG92 E0 ; Reset extruder position\n; Wait for all used extruders to reach temperature\nM109 T0 S230\n;Layer count: 226\n\nUPDATE: It's definitely Repetier or it's slicers. I'm using Cura 15.04.6 and it also calculates the offset set in marlin when printing! I'm trying to use Cura 2.1 because it's newer, but I do not get the print usb option in Cura 2.1 :/ \n\nUPDATE 2: I just don't get it, it was printing very nice the first 4 layers, and suddenly it moved up more than 0.5mm and continued printing there, in the air. \n\nUPDATE 3: I really don't get it.\nYesterday: \n\n\nToday: \n\",Chris Thompson,\"Your question is a little hard to pin down, but I'll try to help anyway. :-)\n\nZ-Offset:\n\n\nIt appears you may be misunderstanding the way z-offset is supposed to work especially when it comes to Marlin setup and routine bed leveling and printing. \nThis may help.\nAnd this\n\n\nPrint Quality and Skipped layer issues:\n\nFrom your pictures, you do have some loose or wobbly belts, pulleys, rails, or other mechanical components causing excessive play in your x and y axis...very apparent with the way your layers don't align well resulting in the very visible lines. You can address this in two ways:\n\n\nMake sure your physical components are tight and rigid enough to handle the print speed you're using.\nSlow down your print speed to something that your machine can handle with reasonable quality...whatever reasonable is for you.\n\n\nYou mentioned skipped layers. I see that in your tower. This is most likely caused by: \n\n\nTower legs too thin so Cura skips it because it can't fit there. I'd suggest using the layer preview in Cura, if the layer doesn't show in the preview, it won't print. If this is because the leg is too thin for your nozzle diameter, you could increase the scale of the tower, edit the model to have thicker legs, or install a finer nozzle. \nIssues with your mesh so Cura skips it. Also use Cura's x-ray view. If there are red areas, you have issues with your mesh. Search for ways to fix your mesh and make sure your model is good to print.\n\n\nHowever, it could also be caused by issues with your filament feeding or your hot end. Clogs, snags, etc. If this were the case, your previews in Cura would all be fine. To solve this you could:\n\n\nIncrease your print temperature slightly to ensure you're filament is melting quickly enough to support your print speed.\nSlow down to allow the filament plenty of time to melt.\nMake sure your feed system is snag-free.\nMake sure your feed system is clean and adequately gripping the filament so it can push the filament into your hot end reliably.\n\n\nI hope this helps. :-)\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n2867,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Burbas,3.0576060275493275,3.9972059781872438,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Makerbot Replicator 2 restarts after preheating the hbp,\"I've recently upgraded my Replicator 2 with a heatbed and the more powerful power brick (9.2A). The problem I'm having right now is that the Replicator restarts right after the preheat of the bedplate finishes. It does not matter which temperature I set as threshold - it restarts either way.\n\nSo it restarts even in very low temperatures on the HBP. Tried upgrading the firmware and even switch firmware to Sailfish, but it's still the same issue. I would really love if someone could help me with this.\n\nEdit: I've checked my cables and it seems okay. Themistor is connected via pin 1 and 3 and the power should be fine.\n\nEdit2: Found the problem. It was a faulty hotend that caused all of this. It works to print with , but togheter with the heated bed it makes the Replicator to restart.\n\",Chris Thompson,\"Clues so far:\n\n\nYou changed your hardware to add a heated bed.\nYou've had the same symptoms with three different firmware versions.\nYour Replicator 2 reboots right after preheat, regardless of temp set. \n\n\nMy Assumptions\n\n\nYou have not tweaked firmware or other settings that could cause both the heated bed and hot end to draw high loads simultaneously. (By default Makerbot handles this in firmware, avoiding situations that could over-tax the 9.2A power supply which isn't really enough to handle preheating both at the same time.)\n\n\nPotential Problems: Listed starting with the easiest to fix...\n\n\nNo problem, carry on: If you are printing from the USB cable, a restart after preheat could be a normal condition. The Replicator 2 reboots to reset inputs when you start a print over USB...this is normal. So, if you're preheating with the buttons and then you start a print, this would be expected behavior. Try printing from SD card and it shouldn't reboot.\nPower Supply voltage switch: Make sure your power supply voltage input switch is on the correct voltage, either 110 or 220. Having it set to 220 when you're using 110 can cause reboots due to insufficient power. (brown-out)\nWrong heated bed: If your heated bed draws too much power (it is higher power than the Replicator 2 can support with that power supply), you may get reboots due to insufficient power. (brown-out)\nShort somewhere: A short somewhere in your system could cause too much power draw. This could be somewhere in your heated bed, your hot end, or other. Inspect carefully around the areas where you moved wires. You could have a frayed wire contacting the frame, a screw shorting between two wires, or a little stray \"\"hair\"\" of copper wire sticking somewhere it shouldn't. This too will cause a reboot due to insufficient power. (brown-out)\n\n\nI hope this helps. For further reference, read this thread as I believe it has some relevant info. :-)\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n2872,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user001,3.267423727073639,3.11657263068942,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,stable FDM materials,\"What materials, available as filaments for use in FDM printing, are known to be the most physically and chemically inert? In particular, stability (not necessarily simultaneously) in the presence of the following should be assumed:\n\n\npH 0-14\noxidizing agents (ozone, permanganates, dichromates, acidic hydrogen\nperoxide)\norganic solvents (particularly acetone, methanol, toluene, formamide)\ntemperature up to 160 degrees Celsius\npressures between ~10^-7 torr and ~2 bar\noxygen or argon plasma\n\n\",Chris Thompson,\"Tough set of requirements and definately pushing into the professional domain. I would recommend checking out ULTEM 1010 Resin which is similar to PEEK but has a higher glass transition temp of 215 °C. Check out the spec sheet from Stratsys.\n\nI hope this helps. :-)\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n2872,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user001,3.267423727073639,3.11657263068942,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,stable FDM materials,\"What materials, available as filaments for use in FDM printing, are known to be the most physically and chemically inert? In particular, stability (not necessarily simultaneously) in the presence of the following should be assumed:\n\n\npH 0-14\noxidizing agents (ozone, permanganates, dichromates, acidic hydrogen\nperoxide)\norganic solvents (particularly acetone, methanol, toluene, formamide)\ntemperature up to 160 degrees Celsius\npressures between ~10^-7 torr and ~2 bar\noxygen or argon plasma\n\n\",user001,\"PEEK, a plastic known for its superior chemical and physical resilience (http://www.zeusinc.com/materials/peek/chemical-resistance-chart-peek), has been successfully used for filament-based printing (https://3dprint.com/52713/indmatec-peek-fdm-printing-filament/). However, it is unlikely to be an option on most existing printers given its high melting temperature (around 343 degrees Celsius, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PEEK). Though it does not meet all the criteria proposed (for instance, its glass transition temperature is around 143 degrees Celsius), overall it is a fairly good choice.\n\nTeflon, an obvious choice, unfortunately has a decomposition temperature very close to its melting temperature, and appears to be unsuitable for extrusion.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n2880,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Fred Hamilton,3.0576060275493275,4.9221703380837445,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,Why does print fall apart at beginning of top layer?,\"I'm looking for any idea of what could cause this problem. I'm printing (1.75mm PLA @ 220C) a 14cm x 14cm box, sliced with Simplify3D. Relevant settings are 3 bottom layers, 3 top layers, 3 outline/perimeter shells, and 15% orthagonal infill every other layer.\n\nThe first 3 layers print fine. Here's the first (bottom) layer after removing the print and turning it over:\n\n\nThe infill (layers 4-10) also prints beautifully (see left side of photo below).\n\nBut the moment it starts printing the next layer (layer 11, the top layer of the bottom of the box), which should be solid fill exactly like layers 1-3, it starts underextruding and generally looking like crap:\n\n\n\nThe first time this happened, I figured the nozzle got clogged or the extruder gear started slipping. This is not the freshest PLA, so maybe it was a PLA quality problem. But the same thing happened at the same layer when I tried it again. And again. And again. As soon as I cancel the print I can have it extrude 5cm of filament and it's fine, no clogs...and if I immediately start another print it again perfectly prints layers 1-10. So it doesn't seem to be the extruder, the nozzle, or PLA quality. I can't imagine the \"\"stress\"\" of laying 7 layers of infill could screw up the next layer...\n\nI just can't figure out how layers 2 and 3 could be basically perfect, but layer 11 is consistently a disaster, when they should be almost the exact same gcode (only a mm apart). I looked at the gcode and it's basically identical for layers 3 and 11, including same feedrate (G1 F2250).\n\nThis is on a DeltaMaker printer with a new E3D Lite6 hot end. Can add more details if needed, but basically I'm just looking for an idea of what could cause this.\n\nUpdate: Just tried a different roll of PLA and got the same results.\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"I doubt this is a printer or filament issue. Rather, I suspect it might be related to how your slicer handles bridging scenarios (which basically is what laying down layers over infill is).\n\nYou could try to:\n\n\nIncrease the infill percentage and/or use an infill pattern that provides better support for the top layer (so that it isn't allowed to sag as much). You will probably still se some sag, but that is usually covered up by the next layer. Adding print cooling might also help here.\nAdjust the bridging settings in your slicer software. If under extrusion is the main issue, perhaps you could try to increase extrusion for bridges?\n\n\nI am no expert with Simplify3D, and I suspect that the default settings actually might be pretty good. I would therefore try option 1. first. Perhaps someone else here can give a better answer related to your slicer. :-)\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n2880,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Fred Hamilton,3.0576060275493275,4.9221703380837445,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,Why does print fall apart at beginning of top layer?,\"I'm looking for any idea of what could cause this problem. I'm printing (1.75mm PLA @ 220C) a 14cm x 14cm box, sliced with Simplify3D. Relevant settings are 3 bottom layers, 3 top layers, 3 outline/perimeter shells, and 15% orthagonal infill every other layer.\n\nThe first 3 layers print fine. Here's the first (bottom) layer after removing the print and turning it over:\n\n\nThe infill (layers 4-10) also prints beautifully (see left side of photo below).\n\nBut the moment it starts printing the next layer (layer 11, the top layer of the bottom of the box), which should be solid fill exactly like layers 1-3, it starts underextruding and generally looking like crap:\n\n\n\nThe first time this happened, I figured the nozzle got clogged or the extruder gear started slipping. This is not the freshest PLA, so maybe it was a PLA quality problem. But the same thing happened at the same layer when I tried it again. And again. And again. As soon as I cancel the print I can have it extrude 5cm of filament and it's fine, no clogs...and if I immediately start another print it again perfectly prints layers 1-10. So it doesn't seem to be the extruder, the nozzle, or PLA quality. I can't imagine the \"\"stress\"\" of laying 7 layers of infill could screw up the next layer...\n\nI just can't figure out how layers 2 and 3 could be basically perfect, but layer 11 is consistently a disaster, when they should be almost the exact same gcode (only a mm apart). I looked at the gcode and it's basically identical for layers 3 and 11, including same feedrate (G1 F2250).\n\nThis is on a DeltaMaker printer with a new E3D Lite6 hot end. Can add more details if needed, but basically I'm just looking for an idea of what could cause this.\n\nUpdate: Just tried a different roll of PLA and got the same results.\n\",StarWind0,\"Two things. First for a first layer from infill this is not unexpect. This is why you do 3-4 shells with such a sparse infill.\n\nMost of the time we also have the first layer at a slower speed. Often we will get to this point and the difference in flow can be contributed to the temp to speed ratio. Try increasing your temp, or decreasing your solid layer speeds.\n\nI recommend starting with a basic calibration STL. You can find them on thingiverse. Start with single wall, upgrade to a square, hollow square, etc. \n\nAlso increasing either number of top shells and or infill percent will also help.\n\n3D printing is all about balancing 20 settings. I think of it like a performer spinning multiple plates. That said all about baby steps.\n\nBut to answer your question. Ignoring that this is exactly what I would expect even from a well calibrated printer on the first layer post infill.\nlayer 1-3 is that the first layer is very slow. The extruder has built up a backlog of melted plastic. Assuming you are running too cold or too slow for some different types of printing (infill, solid, bridging, solid infill) you will slowly run out. Then suddenly you hit this solid layer and it needs a LOT fast. But it can only melt plastic 90% of what you need. Then less will come out. A good sign this is happening is if there is a lot of plastic shavings by the geared extruder. (if it can't melt then it stalls and the extruder shaves the plastic)\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n2956,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Fred Hamilton,3.618048892289167,3.9170950604896637,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Print fails at perpendicular boundaries,\"I recently changed the printhead on my DeltaMaker from stock to an E3D Lite6, and am struggling to get back to my original quality, reliability, and repeatability. I thought I had gotten the recipe pretty close to dialed in and tried a bigger print last night. It turned out pretty good in most respects except for where vertical structures rise up from the horizontal surface (and a retraction/stringing issue that I didn't think was but perhaps could be related). \n\nThe screw hole mounts seem well-designed to me:\n\n\n\nNo 90 degree transitions - I would think this would be the least of my problems. But last night they had serious problems:\n\n\n\n\n\nI haven't seen a problem like that before. Extrusion rate seems basically perfect - why does it look like it just stopped extruding around the perimeters?\n\nI'm using PLA filament and Simplify3D 3.1.0 slicing. Settings:\n\n\n0.35 mm nozzle, 0.40 mm extrusion width, 1.05 extrusion multiplier\n0.15 mm layer height, 3 top, 3 bottom layers, 2 perimeter shells (maybe should try 3?)\n30% infill, 60% outline overlap, 110% infill extrusion width \nTemp is 220°C (thermocouple wedged between nozzle and heater block reports about 206°C when thermistor says 220°C) \nPrint speed is 2700 mm/min (45 mm/s)\n\n\nHas anyone seen this issue before?\n\nUPDATE:\nIncreasing outline overlap from 60% to 90% almost fixes the problem (at least visually if not structurally) - there's just one small hole at the base of each structure. (I stopped the print a few layers after the problem layers do ignore the tops.)\n\n\n\nGoing to 99% (Simplify3D's max) would probably get rid of those last holes but I have to think that maxing out S3D's outline overlap setting to just barely make the print work means I haven't found or addressed the true root cause...\n\",nscan,\"Since you said you don't have a cooling fan, try lowering the temperature on your print head to something like 205. The strings in the first and second picture also occur more often when the print temperature is too high as well. \n\nThe layer time gets really small at that transition, so make sure the print speed is slowing down while printing that part of the object and pausing in between those layers to allow for cooling.\n\nIt looks like the plastic is still molten and is being dragged around too me.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2956,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Fred Hamilton,3.618048892289167,3.9170950604896637,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Print fails at perpendicular boundaries,\"I recently changed the printhead on my DeltaMaker from stock to an E3D Lite6, and am struggling to get back to my original quality, reliability, and repeatability. I thought I had gotten the recipe pretty close to dialed in and tried a bigger print last night. It turned out pretty good in most respects except for where vertical structures rise up from the horizontal surface (and a retraction/stringing issue that I didn't think was but perhaps could be related). \n\nThe screw hole mounts seem well-designed to me:\n\n\n\nNo 90 degree transitions - I would think this would be the least of my problems. But last night they had serious problems:\n\n\n\n\n\nI haven't seen a problem like that before. Extrusion rate seems basically perfect - why does it look like it just stopped extruding around the perimeters?\n\nI'm using PLA filament and Simplify3D 3.1.0 slicing. Settings:\n\n\n0.35 mm nozzle, 0.40 mm extrusion width, 1.05 extrusion multiplier\n0.15 mm layer height, 3 top, 3 bottom layers, 2 perimeter shells (maybe should try 3?)\n30% infill, 60% outline overlap, 110% infill extrusion width \nTemp is 220°C (thermocouple wedged between nozzle and heater block reports about 206°C when thermistor says 220°C) \nPrint speed is 2700 mm/min (45 mm/s)\n\n\nHas anyone seen this issue before?\n\nUPDATE:\nIncreasing outline overlap from 60% to 90% almost fixes the problem (at least visually if not structurally) - there's just one small hole at the base of each structure. (I stopped the print a few layers after the problem layers do ignore the tops.)\n\n\n\nGoing to 99% (Simplify3D's max) would probably get rid of those last holes but I have to think that maxing out S3D's outline overlap setting to just barely make the print work means I haven't found or addressed the true root cause...\n\",Jexoteric,\"It looks like the first layers that are making the vertical transition do not have enough to stick to and are curling up. Are you using a cooling fan?\n\",0.0,0.0\n2993,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Veda,3.618048892289167,4.047070673532053,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.488653845767225,Which type of extrusion problem?,\"I'm a novice in 3D printing. I have a Lulzbot Kittaz 3D printer with a hexagonal hot end of 0.35 mm. I have printed a test subject, and while I was printing I encountered this extrusion problem. I'm using ABS with 230 °C hot end temperature and 85 °C bed temperature. What kind of problem is this and how should I rectify it?\n\nI took this photo when the printer printed the first layer:\n\n\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"As Jmb2341 suggests, this over extrusion could be due to an excessive feed rate. \n\nHowever, I would also like to add the possibility of your Z-height during the first layer being too close. For instance, if your first layer height is set to 0.4mm, but your print head actually moves as close as 0.2mm from the bed, there will be twice as much filament extruded than what it is actually room for below the nozzle. This, in turn, will appear like over extrusion, while the issue actually is your Z-leveling/height.\n\nIn general, unless you are using a raft, the amount of first layer over extrusion will often have to be balanced with the prints ability to stick to the bed. In other words, over extrusion during the first layer improves print stickiness, so that close bed leveling gives sticky prints but first layer over extrusion; while, distant bed leveling gives loose prints with more accurate first layer extrusion. \n\nIf you are wondering whether what you are seeing is over extrusion due to excessive feed rate or too close bed levelling, then you should try to inspect the extrusion of the top layer of some of your prints: If the top layer looks fine, your bed is leveled too close; however, if the top layer is over extruded as well, then your feed rate is too high.\n\nGood luck!\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n2993,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Veda,3.618048892289167,4.047070673532053,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.488653845767225,Which type of extrusion problem?,\"I'm a novice in 3D printing. I have a Lulzbot Kittaz 3D printer with a hexagonal hot end of 0.35 mm. I have printed a test subject, and while I was printing I encountered this extrusion problem. I'm using ABS with 230 °C hot end temperature and 85 °C bed temperature. What kind of problem is this and how should I rectify it?\n\nI took this photo when the printer printed the first layer:\n\n\n\",StarWind0,\"Two things come to mind. First it is the first few layers. You could have the head Smashing into the print bed. Causing a massive build up of plastic the first few layers. And or you have over extrusion.\n\n\nTake a piece of paper. you want the distance from the head and the\nbed to be that width. Just enough friction to feel a light drag. \nAfter that verify that your first layer extrusion multiplier is\nunder 1.5. \nMake sure you are extruding the correct amount. Take a ruler.\nMark out 100mm. Have it extrude 100mm. Correct feed rates\naccordingly. \nNext check plastic diameter by taking the average over 10 samples\nover a meter of plastic. Enter accordingly.\nThen last you might have temp a bit high. Drop it a few degrees. Not a huge factor. \n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3173,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Veda,1.726248027126092,4.467590025957899,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Unable to load G-code in Ultimaker Cura,\"I have generated a few 3D prints in G-code using KISSlicer and Slic3r, but when I load them into Ultimaker Cura I'm unable to get anything. The number of layers says one but I cannot see anything and print option is not working. I have viewed these G-codes online and they are fine. I'm using a Lulzbot KITTAZ with v2 toolhead (hexagon) and I can print only using Ultimaker Cura. Please tell me what the reason for this is.\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"Cura prior to version 2.5 does not take G-code as an input. I'm not sure what you mean by \"\"print only using Cura.\"\" Don't you have a SD slot on your control board? For that matter, why can't you drive the USB port from Slic3r? \n\nRemember: G-code is the equivalent of \"\"compiled code,\"\" the raw commands which drive the printer, while STL or OBJ, etc., are the \"\"source code,\"\" which you edit to get the shape you want.\n\nI've looked at a few apps which will render a 3D image on your computer from G-code, but I don't know off-hand of one which will \"\"decompile\"\" into a STL or mesh file.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3173,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Veda,1.726248027126092,4.467590025957899,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Unable to load G-code in Ultimaker Cura,\"I have generated a few 3D prints in G-code using KISSlicer and Slic3r, but when I load them into Ultimaker Cura I'm unable to get anything. The number of layers says one but I cannot see anything and print option is not working. I have viewed these G-codes online and they are fine. I'm using a Lulzbot KITTAZ with v2 toolhead (hexagon) and I can print only using Ultimaker Cura. Please tell me what the reason for this is.\n\",CarvedBlock,\"Update: \n\nCura 2.5, and higher, does load and print G-code. \n\n(The support was added April 19, 2017.)\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n3176,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Veda,3.267423727073639,3.6594421369459247,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Unidentified problem in printing,\"I have printed the XY resonance, Z resonance, bridging performance and the negative space tolerance test, from Makezine (can be found here), and I have encountered the following errors in the prints.\n\nZ resonance test:\n\nThe layers are shifting as the height is increasing.\n\n Click Here for larger image\n\nXY resonance test: \n\nThere is continuous extrusion problem that is occurring on the same side, I have printed it a few times and every time I'm getting the same problem at the same side.\n\n Click Here\n Click Here\n\nBridging performance test:\n\nHas severe infill drop, the test recommended printing without supports.\n\n Click Here\n Click Here\n\nNegative space tolerances:\n\nExcept for the 0.6 pin, I was unable to remove any of other pins.\n\n\n\nI'm using a Lulzbot KITTAZ printer with V2c hexagon tool head (0.35 mm). These are the settings that I used while printing these objects:\n\n\nLayer thickness: 0.1 mm\ninfill: 20%\nPrinting temperature: 230°C\nPrintbed: 85°C\nBottom and top layer thickness: 0.1 mm\n\n\nPlease provide suggestions on improving the printer performance.\n\",StarWind0,\"Okay so one problem at a time.. You have several issues.\n\n1 You will likely note while it prints, the pillar will almost catch and sometimes twang as the layers get higher and higher. Issue here is you are over extruding a bit and the head is dragging on the print. Add some leverage and then you get this strange pattern. Letting it cool more between layers or by adding a fan will also help. A small pillar like this will not have much time to cool.\n\nOr it could be that your Z is not straight. Whats the name of this test? Right the Z resonance test. Check out your smooth rods and screws and see if they are perfect or not.\n\n2 Hmm maybe some oozing / over extrusion. I mean it will never be perfect.\n\n3 Looks good to me. You are printing PLA not ABS?. Looking at your temps and I hope you are doing ABS.. Which probably should bridge a bit better. That said even my highly calibrated machines would have a hard time with a bridge like that. I've been at this for years. Fan will help. Different material will help. I mean you are printing over air. That said 1-2 degrees will make a difference. Try slowing it down. Try lowering temp. Add that fan. Remember every spool will need a new perfect temp. Even a different color will need calibration as the pigments change the temperature profile.\n\nLast over all, simplify 3d seems to really help. I rarely spend time calibrating these days. Albeit they cost a lot. no affiliation.\n\nI also like this visual guide \nhttp://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide\n\nEDIT. I see you have added more photos!\nFor the Z axis, I stick with my first assessment. Over-extrusion. Or it could just be getting too hot the higher you go. Maybe add a min time between layers option if your slicer supports it. Fan is good too. \n\nXY resonance.. Tricky tricky. My research shows this can be solved by using a different slicer program. You will have to research how to solve this with your preferred program. Maybe try to tighten belts, and tweek your oozebane settings. I would also play with acceleration and Jerk at the Firmware level.. \n\nLast one, Bridging. You have bigger issues than bridging. All that shows is you don't have temp dialed in 100% yet. 230 might be high.. 85 for PLA would be high as well.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3442,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Veda,3.0576060275493275,3.697472914088804,2.7799718631987322,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,\"No Z hop in Dual extruder, print getting disturbed at retraction point\",\"I'm using a Lulzbot KITTAZ with V2 Dual extruder(0.5mm). When I'm printing anything, the front left side of the print is getting disturbed because whenever the tool head switches the action between the extruders, they stop at the front left point of the print. They are not performing the Z-hop and because they are hot they are disturbing the print at that point.\nThese are the settings that are currently set:\n\n\nThe print with the disturbance:\n\n\nSometimes the whole print is getting dragged to the extruders.\n\",0scar,\"It appears as though you are using (or used) an old version of Cura. More recent releases allow you to insert G-code commands on changing the extruder. You could insert a Z-hop in these sections. \n\nExtruder End G-code: First set the extruder in a relative mode, move up 2 mm, set absolute again:\n\nG91\nG1 Z2\nG90\n\n\nExtruder Start G-code: First set the extruder in a relative mode, move down 2 mm, set absolute again:\n\nG91\nG1 Z-2\nG90\n\n\nYou could even do filament retractions to prevent oozing or stringing!\n\nNote that this assumes both hotends are on the same carriage!\n\n\n\nAn alternative you could try is to use a print server that is able to inject G-code scripts, an example is OctoPrint:\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5314,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Veda,1.0891412423578797,3.5228313775130022,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Problem With large prints on Lulzbot Taz6,\"I have got a Lulzbot TAZ6 3 days ago. Last night I started a print which is 21 hours long and when I returned check on it this afternoon it was a complete mess.\nThese are the objects that I wanted to print:\n\n\nI used Cura LUlzbot edition for printing this, the settings I have opted are:\n\n\n\n\nI need to print them with 100% infill for my project. I printed it over USB, and the cura was still running when I checked now, so i guess its not because of the computer shutdown. This used to happen when I tried printing these on Lulzbot KITTAZ i have, but its not working so I got TAZ6. Please let me know where i'm going wrong.\n\nThis was the state of the print(some of it was sticking to the printbed, this picture was taken after i removed it from the printbed)\n\nEdit:\n\nThanks for the suggestion. I have calibrated the extruder and tried to print only the vertical cylinder. I have changed only one setting, changed the extrusion multiplier to .99. I kept the infill density to 100%(my project needs a cylinder to be completely filled without any air gaps) to see which of those two has greater influence on the print quality. All the other settings were the same\nhere is the result(After I saw this I cancelled the print):\n\n\n\nLike you suggested the infill is overflowing. What should I do next, i'm concerned if it is printed with reduced infill percentage its density will decrease. Shall I try to print it with 97% and see what happens?\n\",mac,\"Unluckily - for as much information on your settings you share - it is very difficult to diagnose the problem without knowing how the print failed. Did a piece become dislodged? Did the nozzle caught onto a printed piece? Did the head began extrude in mid air? ...?\n\nHowever this are my guesses:\n\n\nFrom your temp settings it looks like you are printing ABS. If this is the case, have you placed your printer in an enclosure? With ABS, It is very very difficult (if not impossible) to print anything above \"\"small\"\", without an enclosure.\nPrinting 100% infill is normally a bad idea. If you are doing it for strength, then you should know that the strength gains are progressively smaller on anything above 60%. 100% infill also means that unless your extrusion is perfectly calibrated (which I suspect it may not be the case, given that your setting is the default 100%) any amount of overextrusion will likely let the nozzle \"\"catch\"\". Finally, 100% extrusion also increases the warping forces on the piece considerably.\nPrinting a cylinder \"\"laying down\"\" is hard: you basically have zero adhesion to the printing bed and must rely on the support material to stabilise your part. But the support material is designed not to bond securely to the main piece and it will be unable to counterbalance any \"\"curling up\"\" that your part may experience due to thermal contraction.\n\n\nSo, my suggestions:\n\n\nUse an enclosure (even a simple cardboard box on top of the printer will do for a starter). Definitively use an enclosure if you are printing with ABS\nCalibrate your extruder. Here is a handy guide. :)\nReduce your infill density to something between 60% and 97%.\nPrint your parts one at a time, start from the vertical cylinder and - when you have got that right - try the horizontal one.\nIf you must print one of the two horizontal...\n\n\nIncrease the support density considerably, and diminish the Z-distance between support and print to the bare minimum. If your edition of cura has that setting, use support interfaces at full density.\nAlternatively eliminate the headache completely and print two semi-cylinders instead (cut the cylinder in half along its length, printing them with the \"\"cut\"\" as their base) and glue them together afterwards. If you are using ABS you can \"\"weld\"\" them with acetone instead.\n\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6642,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Veda,3.618048892289167,3.5148268665696674,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,How to avoid stringing?,\"How can I avoid the irregularities and stringing in the print.\nPrinter Used: Fortus 450mc\n\nModel: PC\n\nModel tip: T10\n\nSupport tip: T12SR\n\nSupport: SR-100\n\nSlice Height: 0.0050 in\n\nI have printed two objects using Grabcad print (with Insight)\n1) Voronoi bear:\nThe voronoi bear has missing layers/unattached layer at its bottom everything else seems OK. I do notice a bit of stringing though.\n\n\n\n2) Cylinder with hollow channels:\nThe cylinder has a lot of visible stringing and one of the channels is slightly deformed. \n\n\n\nPlease refer to the attached images.\n\nPlease let me know if any additional details are needed.\n\",Dave Corbett,\"I've been able to reduce stringing by reducing the nozzle temp in 2°C increments until it goes away.\nYou'll also want to increase your retraction settings a bit.\n\nThe problem is caused by the plastic being too hot and oozing out of the nozzle - it's a bit too runny.\n\nSearch Thingiverse for Heat Towers. You'll need to edit the G-code so that your printer adjusts the nozzle temp at each layer. That will give you a really good indication of the best temperature for the given material.\n\nKeep in mind you'll want to print it for each new brand (and sometimes color) of filament.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n2892,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Logarr,3.267423727073639,3.7217012100104734,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Poor adhesion only for first couple of inches,\"I have a QIDI Tech 1. It has a heated bed, and a cooling fan attachment. Whenever I print without a raft, the first inch or two of material laid down does not adhere to the bed, but the rest of the first layer is flawless.\n\nI have tried speeding up and slowing down the first layer walls, but the problem remains. It also seemed to get a little worse when slower. I also tried not turning on the cooling fan for a bit to see if maybe the material was cooling too quickly, but that had zero effect on it.\n\nI'd like to avoid using tape and other methods since the rest of the print is perfect, and the bed already has a material on it to aid adhesion.\n\nWhat else can I try to prevent the dragging for the start of the print?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"I've had this problem in the past with a Flux Delta printer. The first attempt to resolve it was to always use a brim along with a raft. The brim will often have settings to allow number of passes as well as number of layers. If you are not using the brim to provide adhesion, you still can use it to prime the nozzle.\n\nLater versions of the software allowed for start g-code which moved the nozzle to the edge of the print area and extruded 10-40 mm of filament, also providing for priming the nozzle.\n\nYou've not noted what slicer you are using. You may find there are suitable locations to position the head to an unused area, run a few mm of filament, then begin your print. \n\nAmazon Q&A says your printer accepts g-code, which implies the slicer generates same. \n\nIn combination with a brim, you may have your solution. I've also found that you have a heated bed. If you have a cold spot on the bed, adhesion may be a problem, although I think that is not the case, based on your description.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n2892,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Logarr,3.267423727073639,3.7217012100104734,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Poor adhesion only for first couple of inches,\"I have a QIDI Tech 1. It has a heated bed, and a cooling fan attachment. Whenever I print without a raft, the first inch or two of material laid down does not adhere to the bed, but the rest of the first layer is flawless.\n\nI have tried speeding up and slowing down the first layer walls, but the problem remains. It also seemed to get a little worse when slower. I also tried not turning on the cooling fan for a bit to see if maybe the material was cooling too quickly, but that had zero effect on it.\n\nI'd like to avoid using tape and other methods since the rest of the print is perfect, and the bed already has a material on it to aid adhesion.\n\nWhat else can I try to prevent the dragging for the start of the print?\n\",Chris Thompson,\"I'd recommend using the \"\"skirt\"\" function if you're not already. \n\nThe idea is to print a few perimeter layers around where your part will be, but not actually touching your part. \n\nMost slicers support this and you can choose how much skirt you want to print. This addresses the issue you mention, and it purges old filament that has spent too much time in the nozzle. As an added bonus, it gives you a good indication that your print location, print height, and first layer adhesion are all good.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n2897,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,JBFUK,3.0576060275493275,4.486341277934241,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Poor first layer bonding and bridging issues with Prima PETG,\"I have a roll of Prima PETG, I like the strength but I am having a few issues - the outside perimeter of the first layer often breaks away as a loose string (so it's not bonding with the second layer or perimeter next to it), small areas tend to go gloopy and also bridging is very poor.\n\nHave you suffered from these issues with PETG and if so how have you gotten around them?\n\",Chris Thompson,\"Those are fairly common issues and you should be able to tweak your way into good prints.\n\n\nFirst layer perimeter bonding: Slow down first layer to around 15mm/s with fan off to address that bonding issue.\nGloopy blobs: To address the gloopy blobs, slow down to about 40mm/s or even less, and be sure to use wiping...also, maybe increase your retraction length.\nBridging: Use full fan for better bridging...note that bridging PETG is just harder than many other filaments, but it can be done. The reference below includes some more notes on bridging PETG successfully.\n\n\nIdeal settings will vary based on your printer, your environment, and the characteristics of your specific filament. PETG can take some tweaking so don't be alarmed by the gloopy blobs, excessive stringing, and poor bridging, just plan to spend some time tweaking settings until you find a good balance.\n\nHere is a fairly good reference for further tweaking with PETG.\n\nIf you'd like more help analyzing your print settings here, consider posting your current settings, your printer model, your ambient temperature, and pictures.\n\nI hope this helps! :-)\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n2900,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,allanlaal,2.528907649931287,6.478049045333526,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,\"is PLA gasoline, diesel or chemical resistant?\",\"can PLA be used to print out containers or other parts that are in direct contact with gasoline, diesel or other hard chemical substances? Will it start degrading when in contact with said chemicals? Should I use ABS for this?\n\",spicetraders,\"I have used both ABS and PLA for diesel gas caps and oil plugs. As well have made a gasoline funnel out of both. Both have done well for me.\nI have attach a link to a plastics resistance chart if it is any help. Unfortunately it does not show testing for ABS for all. \n\nI prefer the ABS only do to the fact some items I have made sit in the desert sun. \n\nPlastic resistance chart\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n2903,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,allanlaal,3.618048892289167,4.72751494044221,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Do I need a heated bed for printing PLA in an enclosed printer?,\"I am planning on building a large enclosed (Cartesian XY-Head) 3d printer. I want to keep the inital build time minimal and it is very likely I would need to build the ~50x50cm heatbed from scratch, because it doesn't exist in ebay.\nThe enclosure itself is not separately heated, but depends on waste heat from the printing process. The enclosure will eventually be vented outdoors with a 12V CPU vent via ducting (air flow unknown).\n\nDo I even need a heated print bed, when I am planning to only print PLA? \n\",Charles Driza IV,\"The answer is \"\"No\"\" you don't need a heated bed for PLA but it does make the base layer a little easier to lay down and also helps with print removal post print. \n\nPLA is a very easy filament to work with and the majority of PLA printers don't come with heated beds and suggest blue tape and/or elmers glue. \n\nYou may find that if you are purchasing very cheap/poorly extruded PLA, that things don't stick as well and a heated bed can alleviate some of these issues. \n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n2904,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,allanlaal,2.528907649931287,5.313421802957781,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,true color printing with CMYK+White (not 3-in-1 diamond head RGB),\"There is this great hotend called a diamond hotend, which can be used to print in 3 colors and mix them into hundreds? of colors. This can for example be used with Red, Green and Blue filament to mix a RGB palette. They don't have to be these colors, but I believe RGB would give the maximum range of colors when constrained to 3.\n\nHowever true RGB in physical printing would use separate colored voxels to create the appearance of a color, just like monitors display colors. As far as I know only HP Jet Fusion 3D printer uses this process, but it uses a process vastly different from normal diy 3D FDM printers.\n\nCMYK is mixed physically like you would mix watercolors together to make new colors. It is used for printing on paper by all laserjet and inkjet printers (and in printing presses).\nSo that means even the 3 input diamond hotend is actually mixed like CMYK. Repetier firmware v92.9 has this built in with support up to 16 inputs for a nozzle, but Marlin firmware v1.0.x only supports 4 inputs per nozzle at this time.\n\nUsing RGB for the 3 inputs of a hotend, means the printing color palette lacks White and also it seems that CMYK would give a bigger range of colors. That brings our tally to 4 inputs. It still needs a white filament to print white, so that means 5 inputs. And while we are at it, probably a 6th input would be useful: like for printing black infill (to save using CMYK to mix into black) or for using transparent filament or elastic filament.\n\nSo why isn't there a nozzle with 5-6 inputs already? Could it be done? Are there such hotends already?\n\nP.S These are just theoretical assumptions. I just discovered 3D printing and I am in the planning phase of building my first 3D printer, so I am a total n00b in this. Please correct any assumptions I got wrong.\n\",3dGenie,\"You can find a full color hot end with CMYK+White if you look here https://www.reprap.me/diamond-fullcolor-hotend.html\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n2904,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,allanlaal,2.528907649931287,5.313421802957781,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,true color printing with CMYK+White (not 3-in-1 diamond head RGB),\"There is this great hotend called a diamond hotend, which can be used to print in 3 colors and mix them into hundreds? of colors. This can for example be used with Red, Green and Blue filament to mix a RGB palette. They don't have to be these colors, but I believe RGB would give the maximum range of colors when constrained to 3.\n\nHowever true RGB in physical printing would use separate colored voxels to create the appearance of a color, just like monitors display colors. As far as I know only HP Jet Fusion 3D printer uses this process, but it uses a process vastly different from normal diy 3D FDM printers.\n\nCMYK is mixed physically like you would mix watercolors together to make new colors. It is used for printing on paper by all laserjet and inkjet printers (and in printing presses).\nSo that means even the 3 input diamond hotend is actually mixed like CMYK. Repetier firmware v92.9 has this built in with support up to 16 inputs for a nozzle, but Marlin firmware v1.0.x only supports 4 inputs per nozzle at this time.\n\nUsing RGB for the 3 inputs of a hotend, means the printing color palette lacks White and also it seems that CMYK would give a bigger range of colors. That brings our tally to 4 inputs. It still needs a white filament to print white, so that means 5 inputs. And while we are at it, probably a 6th input would be useful: like for printing black infill (to save using CMYK to mix into black) or for using transparent filament or elastic filament.\n\nSo why isn't there a nozzle with 5-6 inputs already? Could it be done? Are there such hotends already?\n\nP.S These are just theoretical assumptions. I just discovered 3D printing and I am in the planning phase of building my first 3D printer, so I am a total n00b in this. Please correct any assumptions I got wrong.\n\",Nick Dancer,\"So whilst this is not quite what you were talking about I think this is the closest to the effect you’re looking for that I’ve seen.\n\nhttps://www.xyzprinting.com/en-US/product/da-vinci-color\n\nThis da Vinci printer uses a CMYK inkjet to colour a white filament as its being extruded. This allows for very quick changes in colour as well a nearly infinite combination of colours.\n\nThis means it only needs a single extruder and hotend but obviously the hotend needs to be built to allow the injection of pigment from the inkjet.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2921,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,allanlaal,4.255155677057378,5.584878209869911,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.929104701733314,2.8086301675739853,Printed part auto-eject (automatic part removal),\"What are the methods to auto eject parts (into a collection area/box/basket) in order for the 3D printer to continue printing?\n\nFor some reason this feature isn't common (yet?). Is there a hidden reason why?\n\nWill using the print head to ram the part off the build plate into a basket nearby cause the print head to misalign (if using belts).\n\nI am planning to use a Cartesian XY-Head type (like CoreXY) printer, where the build plate moves along the Z axis and XY axes are on the ceiling of the printer using belts to move the print head.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"From the standpoint of a hobbyist user with a mid-range machine, my answer is based on the model release from the build plate. With a heated clean glass plate, my model will almost always release once the plate has cooled. The \"\"almost\"\" aspect means that if you want to use the print head to push the model clear, you will be confronted with a stuck model occasionally.\n\nThe amount of force applied by the head may be enough to release a stuck model, but \"\"may be\"\" is not going to be sufficient. Especially with a core-xy system (used by my Emblaser laser engraver), you can either toss a belt or cause a stepper motor skipping. More powerful motors will reduce the skipping possibility, but not the belt jump problem.\n\nYou could consider to add one additional motor with a sweep arm, geared in such a manner as to provide the necessary torque, along with a force sensor to register a model stuck so badly as to be impossible to dislodge.\n\nYour g-code would be written to lower the bed to the appropriate location to allow the sweep arm to operate, while the force sensor would be tied into the pause/stop circuit of your controller.\n\nSome controllers already have the ability to manage an additional motor, as some are manufactured to provide for dual extrusion.\n\nIf such unattended operation is going to be a requirement, you'd also want some form of aborting a failing or failed print.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2921,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,allanlaal,4.255155677057378,5.584878209869911,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.929104701733314,2.8086301675739853,Printed part auto-eject (automatic part removal),\"What are the methods to auto eject parts (into a collection area/box/basket) in order for the 3D printer to continue printing?\n\nFor some reason this feature isn't common (yet?). Is there a hidden reason why?\n\nWill using the print head to ram the part off the build plate into a basket nearby cause the print head to misalign (if using belts).\n\nI am planning to use a Cartesian XY-Head type (like CoreXY) printer, where the build plate moves along the Z axis and XY axes are on the ceiling of the printer using belts to move the print head.\n\",Chris Thompson,\"While the \"\"best\"\" method is probably unanswerable since it would be based on very specific requirements and subject to change as soon as a better method were devised, here are some feasible methods to auto-eject 3d printed parts.\n\nSome of these are methods that I've considered for my personal use, others have been mentioned by others and added for helpful reference. Some have been done, others have not (I think), but all of them are feasible.\n\nScrolling Conveyor-type Bed:\n\n\nIn this concept, parts become dislodged from the print surface as it is deformed around a roller in the process of scrolling to the next position. Scrolling bed designs must make allowances to prevent parts from lifting up the bed material which becomes an issue especially with warp-prone materials. Note: This is the basis of the Automated Build Platform (ABP) originally designed (as far as I can tell) by Charles Pax and later covered in several patents by Makerbot Industries.\n\n\nDeforming Bed:\n\n\nIn this concept, the bed is mechanically deformed when the part removal temperature has been reached. This deformation dislodges the part which can then be easily swept off of the bed by an arm or similar mechanism. (As far as I know, this concept has not yet been demonstrated.)\n\n\nArticulated Segmented Bed:\n\n\nIn this concept, the bed is comprised of several strips. Slightly lowering a portion (let's say half) of the strips would separate them from the part, then slightly raising that portion would separate the part from the remaining strips. (As far as I know, this concept has not yet been demonstrated.)\n\n\nEject and Replace Bed:\n\n\nThis method ejects the entire bed surface along with the finished parts and then receives a fresh print surface for the next print. This method would likely still require intervention to remove parts from used print surfaces and then return them to the clean stack. (As far as I know, this concept has not yet been demonstrated.)\n\n\nPlow:\n\n\nThis method mentioned by Fred_dot_u and AllanL uses a specially designed plow arm to sweep parts off the bed between prints. This method has been effectively demonstrated in this video by New Valance Robotics Corporation that was mentioned by AllanL (thanks!).\n\n\nIssues using print head to eject parts: While this method has been tried, and demonstrated (see below), it has some challenges/drawbacks.\n\n\nTypical FDM/FFF 3d printers are not designed to apply significant force behind print head movements. While a printer designed specifically for this purpose could be built, using a typical printer in this way is extremely likely to cause the stepper motors to loose steps and result in loss of position accuracy unless parts separate very easily. (however, position could easily be regained by zeroing via limit switches between prints.) \nIn addition to skipping steps, mechanical issues such as ratcheting/skipping belts or unwanted frame movement could result from even moderately stuck prints.\n\n\nExamples of pushing or ramming parts off of bed:\nWhile using various parts of the printer to push parts off of the bed may not be an ideal solution, it may be an adequate solution for specific circumstances. Here are a few demonstrations of the \"\"ramming\"\" method.\n\n\nRamming parts off with frame and moving bed like this.\nRamming part with robust print head like this.\nRamming easy to remove part with print head like this.\n\n\nInteresting question. I hope this helps!\n\",3.367452517504837,2.0769199823829045\n2910,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,glwilliam,2.8153892694839717,4.110615265422881,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,0.9784382375735183,Simulation tool software for 4D Printing,\"In 4D printing technology or by means usage of Shape-memory alloy (non-metal, iron based, copper based or NiTi material) for 3D printing. \n\nIs there any simulation tool software which i can use to simulate those material change behavior in respect to time? (for e.g when introduce with change in humidity or change in temperature)\n\nNote: It would be best if the simulation tools targeted if for automotive parts (power train, cooling system, interior & exterior etc). \n\nBest Regards\n\",Jexoteric,\"If there is simulation software for this it is likely proprietary and not being distributed at this point. The materials themselves that are capable of self assembly (4D) are still in experimental development, and this there is not really anything to simulate. A simulation needs the properties of the materials that will be used, but these materials do not exist in mass production, they are still being custom made in labs.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2910,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,glwilliam,2.8153892694839717,4.110615265422881,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,0.9784382375735183,Simulation tool software for 4D Printing,\"In 4D printing technology or by means usage of Shape-memory alloy (non-metal, iron based, copper based or NiTi material) for 3D printing. \n\nIs there any simulation tool software which i can use to simulate those material change behavior in respect to time? (for e.g when introduce with change in humidity or change in temperature)\n\nNote: It would be best if the simulation tools targeted if for automotive parts (power train, cooling system, interior & exterior etc). \n\nBest Regards\n\",p._phidot_,\"(preface : I originally intent to write this as a comment, but the volume limit reached. In that tone, I'll utilize this answer space writing it..)\n\n\n to simulate those material change behavior in respect to time?\n\n\nCOMSOL, ANSYS or equivalent ring a bell to be.. as long as you have the material properties (young's modulus, density, thermal transport & expansion properties, color?) right.\n\nAlso. depending on your actual implementation resolution (nano-scale production.. macro/mini-lego sized assembly), you may want to adjust the mesh size for the finite element method solver.\n\n\n software for 4D Printing\n\n\nIf your 4th D refers to time.. then the discussion ends here.\n\nIf your 4th D is a space (not time) dimension.. Then you need to convert your 4D geometric object into a 3D shadow (just like generating the normal 2D shadow from a 3D geometric object) 1st to proceed. just like an 3D object (eg cube) can have multiple equivalent 2D form (or shadow). The same applies for 4D to 3D. Once you get the 3D coordinates of the chosen 3D form, you may print it as usual. \n\nSoftware wise.. mathematica (are used in the some of the example I've seen, others unknown/selfcoded) or equivalent will do.. but the key here is not the software.. it's the visualization algorithm. If you can get the \"\"shadowing\"\" algorithm done right, any 3D/math software will do. \n\np/s : I didn't expect the materials modelling question coming when I read the title (I really thought this question refers to extra space dimension) .. but yeah.. why not. It's a good postgraduate/research topic to take on. ( :\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2913,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jay,3.0576060275493275,3.9455692872976096,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Editing arc in Marlin for 3d printing,\"I'm working on designing a 3d printer with a team. The team is using marlin open source software and I started half way into project trying to make sense of things. \n\nApparently there is an issue with the wheels moving the print head and it always moves a few mm short in the of the desired position. Can some one tell me which part of the marlin code interprets the G-code file and controls movement? I'm thinking of increasing the distance in the x and y axis to correct this (seemingly) minor problem.\n\",Chris Thompson,\"Since your team is designing a printer, you'll have to do some basic calculations to figure out your x and y axis steps per millimeter and then set them in your firmware.\n\nFor a decent primer in the basic idea, this video is a good start. For another decent getting started summary check this blog post\n\nAlso, since you're using Marlin, become very familiar with the Marlin Firmware and how to configure it. The setting you want to change exists in the configuration.h file. Documentation is included in the file, but you can find good information here in the Marlin Configuration instructions within the Marlin Firmware Github repo.\n\nI hope this helps! :-)\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n2929,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Crollster,1.0891412423578797,4.499836490379483,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How are SLS printers able to print multiple colours?,\"With FFF printers able to manage only a small handful different colours (by using different filaments & extruders), how is it some SLS prints are able to be produced in such a broad range of colours?\n\nAre they sprayed post-production?\n\",Jexoteric,\"The Z-corp/3D systems printers lay down what is essentially ink in each layer (only around the perimeters) much like an inkjet printer, dying the powder as the parts are made. This means they can make almost any color at any point in the model. The down size is these models are pretty fragile, at least the last ones that I have handled. This can be helped by dipping them in cyanoacrylate and letting them dry. \n\nAs pointed out in the comments, this is not an SLS process, but looks very similar. The printer lays down a binder (clear or colored) on each layer, and is why these models are much more fragile than SLS models, which are very strong.\n\nHere is an example of some prints: http://mcad3dprintingandprototyping.blogspot.com/\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n2930,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,sp3d-gs,3.0576060275493275,5.096278152565039,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Slic3r mesh merging,\"I frequently have to print a range of different parts each with different geometrical features. So far, I generate each part's optimum printing parameters manually. To be able to print such parts more efficiently, I am planning to create a \"\"library\"\" of individual geometries, each with its unique set of optimum printing parameters.\n\nThe issue I am facing here is in combining all the different geometrical features when slicing. (The geometrical features are individual STL files of different geometries). Slic3r does not seem to merge the meshes of adjoining or overlapping solids, making the joints between each different STL mechanically weak that can be snapped by hand.\n\nI wonder why such meshing is not possible. I realise that if each solid on the plater is assigned different printing parameters such as layer height or infill pattern/density, merging would not be possible, however if we keep such incompatible parameters constant for all solids, and only vary, say, printing speed and the number of perimeter shells, merging should still be possible.\n\nIs the only way to enable meshing of different STLs into a single solid by modifying the code of the slicer?\n\nThank you in advance!\n\",Eagl3,\"Try using Autodesk Meshmixer. You can edit STL and OBJ files live and save changes. Additionally it has a feature where you can arrange parts on a printbed in the software and save the whole bed contents as a stl or gcode file. It can then be imported into a slicer software as any other model output.\n\nThe software is free to use. http://www.meshmixer.com/download.html \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2943,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,vwegert,3.267423727073639,5.703105930464227,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,First (bottom) layer has gaps,\"First off - I'm rather new to this and I might be on the wrong track altogether...\n\nI'm printing PLA using a simple DIY XYZ printer with a direct-driven extruder, 0.3 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm layer heights, using Slic3r. I've tried to calibrate the bed as level as I can. I believe the distance to be OK because the skirt prints in straight lines with no wobble.\n\nWhile the overall results aren't that bad, I'm trying to improve the quality. I'm not happy with the first layer: While it sticks to the bed nicely, the printed strands are too far apart - there's a very noticeable gap between them that I can actually see the second layer through. There appears to be a problem with the second layer as well which always ends up too small (recessed). That's only the second layer, though - from the third layer on, that problem disappears. \n\nWhat I've tried so far:\n\n\nchange the nozzle and/or bed temperature by 10-20 degrees up or down - no visible change\nchange the print speed (using the dial on the printer) - no noticeable change, especially when going slower\nchange the first layer extrusion width from 200% to 250% or 300% - that made the strands \"\"flatter\"\", but also made Slic3r space out the strands so that I ended up with gaps again\nincrease the extrusion multiplier - that seemed to help the first layer, but lead to over extrusion further up, so I didn't pursue that any further\nmanually increased the flow setting for the first layer in the printer menu to 135 - that seems to do the trick, but I have to turn the setting back again on the second layer\n\n\nNow - is this the right way to fix this or am I just patching over an entirely different problem that I just failed to diagnose properly? If it is the right way, how can I tell Slic3r to either change the flow rate / extrusion multiplier just for the first layer or increase the extrusion width without spacing the strands further apart?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"You can, in most slicers, set a separate extrusion multiplier for the first layer. This doesn't appear to be possible in slic3r, but there are a couple of ways to work around this:\n\n\nChange the Z offset (either in software or by adjusting the endstop). Bring the nozzle closer to the bed for the first layer. You can combine this with an increased first layer height. This is the most appropriate fix for your issue.\nUse M92 EX.XXX to increase the extruder steps/mm in the start G-code, then set it back to normal in the layer change code. This emulates increasing the extrusion multiplier for the first layer.\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n3089,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,vwegert,3.767809650974757,5.185264159581417,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,\"Second layer: gaps, poor adhesion - why?\",\"I'm seeing the following pattern on my Prusa clone:\n\n\n\nThe first layer prints OK, layer adhesion to the bed is good. The second layer shows the weird gaps. On larger pieces, or with an increased feed rate, it sometimes gets so bad that parts of the second layer detach and are dragged across the print. I get the impression that this effect is worse when printing in the \"\"top left to bottom right\"\" direction, but not as bad when printing in the \"\"top right to bottom left\"\" direction. \n\nThis occurs with multiple filaments and materials. I've already tried to manipulate the flow rate, temperatures and print speed, but gotten little improvement if any. \n\nWhat might be causing this issue?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"I wouldn't describe that as an \"\"OK\"\" first layer. The nozzle is either too far from the bed, or you're underextruding. Underextrusion also looks like the cause of your second layer problems.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n3089,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,vwegert,3.767809650974757,5.185264159581417,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,\"Second layer: gaps, poor adhesion - why?\",\"I'm seeing the following pattern on my Prusa clone:\n\n\n\nThe first layer prints OK, layer adhesion to the bed is good. The second layer shows the weird gaps. On larger pieces, or with an increased feed rate, it sometimes gets so bad that parts of the second layer detach and are dragged across the print. I get the impression that this effect is worse when printing in the \"\"top left to bottom right\"\" direction, but not as bad when printing in the \"\"top right to bottom left\"\" direction. \n\nThis occurs with multiple filaments and materials. I've already tried to manipulate the flow rate, temperatures and print speed, but gotten little improvement if any. \n\nWhat might be causing this issue?\n\",StarWind0,\"Your first layer is horribly misscalibrated as well. \n\nYou really should do all calibrations over. Including your firmware when your result is this bad. \n\nFollowing. Let's just assume your firmware is set right. And that your flow is right as well. The second layer speaks loudly of overcooked dribbling plastic. You might have a jam. Maybe the factory left some metal shavings in the hot end. I've had it happen. Try taking apart the extruded. Make sure there are no obstructions. Clean the tip with a micro hand drill bit. \n\nAfter that we will need more info. Post your settings. Your might have underflow (you set filiment size higher than it is) and have temperature so hot your are literally boiling the plastic and it is all dripping sparatically instead of controlled. \n\nHaving temp too high can increase carbonization build ups and creats Jams. Did you ever have a good print ? My money is on a partial obstruction. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3590,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,vwegert,1.0891412423578797,3.3206222047196907,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Black goo from only one linear bearing - serious issue?,\"I have a cheap cartesian printer with the usual arrangement - X axis with three linear bearings, build plate moving as Y axis on three linear bearings as well, Z axis with lead screws. After about 2 kg of filament printed, I can see that one of the linear bearings (the single bearing on one side of the Y axis) is leaving an almost black residue at the front of the axis. I have thoroughly oiled all of the bearings before mounting them and repeated that after about 1 kg of filament printed. No other bearing is showing this issue, and the black goo appears only on the front side of the rod, not the back side. What might cause this goo - is the bearing breaking up or is it just some residue from the manufacturing process that is slowly being pushed out of the bearing?\n\",vwegert,\"After completion of the print job, I was able to perform a closer inspection. The black goo contains metallic particles, and the rail the bearings are riding on has a visible groove - which means replacing both the bearings and the rail.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3590,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,vwegert,1.0891412423578797,3.3206222047196907,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Black goo from only one linear bearing - serious issue?,\"I have a cheap cartesian printer with the usual arrangement - X axis with three linear bearings, build plate moving as Y axis on three linear bearings as well, Z axis with lead screws. After about 2 kg of filament printed, I can see that one of the linear bearings (the single bearing on one side of the Y axis) is leaving an almost black residue at the front of the axis. I have thoroughly oiled all of the bearings before mounting them and repeated that after about 1 kg of filament printed. No other bearing is showing this issue, and the black goo appears only on the front side of the rod, not the back side. What might cause this goo - is the bearing breaking up or is it just some residue from the manufacturing process that is slowly being pushed out of the bearing?\n\",Alucard Pawpad,\"Your new oil butted out the old graphite lubricant. \n\nDon't know about the metal particles though, might be dust, or your new oil caused damage to the bearings and/or rails.\n\",0.0,0.0\n3786,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,vwegert,2.528907649931287,4.024506721533562,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Lower BuildTak adhesion,\"I'm having a similar issue to this one: I have retrofitted my printer with a BuildTak sticker. I'm printing PLA at 60°C bed temperature - currently using a 0.3 mm nozzle, but I had similar issues with the 0.4mm nozzle before. \n\nIf I bring the nozzle close enough to the print surface to get a reasonable first layer, I need excessive force to remove the parts afterwards - so much force that I already have damaged the BuildTak in one or two places. If I lower the bed (the physical bed using the screws, not the temperature!) so that the parts come off easier, the first layer is very uneven and it takes 5-6 layers until the layers start to stack onto one another the way they are supposed to. What can I do to influence the adhesion of the printed parts to the BuildTak surface - especially to lower it in a controlled manner without changing the nozzle height?\n\",Hacky,\"Try printing with the heated printbed off. Heat makes the pla stick more to buildtak\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3786,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,vwegert,2.528907649931287,4.024506721533562,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Lower BuildTak adhesion,\"I'm having a similar issue to this one: I have retrofitted my printer with a BuildTak sticker. I'm printing PLA at 60°C bed temperature - currently using a 0.3 mm nozzle, but I had similar issues with the 0.4mm nozzle before. \n\nIf I bring the nozzle close enough to the print surface to get a reasonable first layer, I need excessive force to remove the parts afterwards - so much force that I already have damaged the BuildTak in one or two places. If I lower the bed (the physical bed using the screws, not the temperature!) so that the parts come off easier, the first layer is very uneven and it takes 5-6 layers until the layers start to stack onto one another the way they are supposed to. What can I do to influence the adhesion of the printed parts to the BuildTak surface - especially to lower it in a controlled manner without changing the nozzle height?\n\",NomadMaker,\"When I was using BuildTac on a Monoprice Select Mini, I had to print with a hot bed (50 C or so) and then wait until it was cooled before attempting to remove the parts.\n\nI used a set of very thin removal tools and a lot of patience to remove my parts. I would be careful to push only parallel to the BuildTac with one of the sharper tools. Once I was under the part, I could usually slide the tool under the part like a knife to separate the part from the BuildTac.\n\nI was only using BuildTac on that machine because I damaged it's original yellow surface when I removed my first Benchy from that machine. Since then the BuildTac has lasted for months.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n2950,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,AlohaJoe,3.0576060275493275,3.7536737190535523,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.6229190288168605,Slicing software and Sidewall,\"I am new to FDM RP. I've done a lot of work on ZCorp and Connex. \n\nThe question is can vectors curve drive an extrusion nozzle? Within a 3D volume I can generate curves that I want the print nozzle to follow. Is this possible or has it been done? If so, what software or is there a hack? \n\nAnother question is, can you print a part with no sidewall or containment boundary?\n\",Nir,\"It's not difficult to write software that converts a curve to gcode (break the curve into small lines and emit a G1 command for each line) - however, it's way easier to work with solids since the toolchain supports solid really well and curves not at all.\n\nJust create a solid with your curve as a wall and everything works.\n\nFor the second question, no top/bottom works with every slicer I tried (set the top/bottom to 0 layers/height) - Cura seems to support no walls by setting shells to 0 (but I only checked layers view, I didn't try to print).\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2950,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,AlohaJoe,3.0576060275493275,3.7536737190535523,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.6229190288168605,Slicing software and Sidewall,\"I am new to FDM RP. I've done a lot of work on ZCorp and Connex. \n\nThe question is can vectors curve drive an extrusion nozzle? Within a 3D volume I can generate curves that I want the print nozzle to follow. Is this possible or has it been done? If so, what software or is there a hack? \n\nAnother question is, can you print a part with no sidewall or containment boundary?\n\",Jexoteric,\"Vectors do not drive the extrusion nozzles in current software. There are methods to take vectors and create a solid model with them which can be used. The standard workflow is to take a solid model, save it in the STL format, and then import the STL file into the slicing software and outputs Gcode with contain coordinates for the extrusion nozzle to move to.\n\nI have not seen any software that will create just the infill geometry without any bounding surfaces. This would be such a specific use case that it is unlikely to appear in current software. That is not to say that it couldn't be done, but you would likely have to implement such a feature yourself.\n\",0.0,0.0\n2951,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SteeveDroz,3.0576060275493275,5.337417475531216,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Can I use OctoPi locally?,\"I am trying to use my M3D printer that doesn't work with my Linux computer. I have been told that OctoPi would make it work.\n\nMy current setup is:\n\n\nRaspberry 2 without WiFi, with OctoPi running\nKeyboard and touchscreen connected to the Raspberry\nA .obj file located in /home/pi/ on the Raspberry\n\n\nI don't know anything about OctoPi, but it seems to be created to use as a print server connected by WiFi.\n\nMy question is: how can I use it locally, directly on my Raspberry?\n\nNOTE: I can only use my Raspberry in command line for the moment, but if required I can install lightdm to display stuff.\n\",Aaron Cofield,\"To use it locally you need to be able to view the desktop. \nsudo raspi-config to pull up the config menu and enable boot to desktop.\nIf there is no browser installed already you'll need to install one.\nsudo apt-get update\nsudo apt-get install epiphany-browser\n\nOpen the browser and navigate to http://localhost/\n\nI recommend configuring access control when it prompts you. After you configure it, click login in the top right and login to use octopi.\n\nALTERNATIVE\n\noctocmd is a command line interface for octoprint. If you would rather not boot into the desktop then this is the way to go.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n2952,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Robert Morgan,3.767809650974757,6.015031928953553,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,4.240216107868139,4.099094618364796,PLA use outdoors?,\"I have been using PLA filament for two years now and have had good prints. ABS on the other hand has not been so good, so my choice of filament is PLA. \n\nI am getting ready to do a sign for the American Legion and the colors are black, blue, and red and are 0.8 mm thin. The black letters are 4\"\" x 2.5\"\", blue are 3\"\" x 2\"\" and the red are 7.75\"\" x 5.5\"\". I plan to treat them with UV protection spray and attach them with clear epoxy to white back lit Plexiglass. \n\nAs the letters are quite thin, my question is how well will this hold up in the weather? The sign hangs on a pole that points east & west so the letters will be facing north and south. The original was painted with spray paint and the red paint south side faded to the point you could hardly see it at all. The sign had been there for some time and was done at a professional sign company.\n\",Crono,\"I printed a handle for a rather big rolling door in natural PLA (From Fabberparts) - no UV protection. It's on the weather side of the house and is exposed to direct sun half the day.\n\nAnd after three years cycling to all the German seasons it's still absolutely fine. Also, Wikipedia told me that PLA has good UV resistance - so you should be fine IMHO.\n\nHere is a good blog post about your question: Using PLA for Long-Term Outdoor Applications.\n\",3.6340916038470805,0.0\n2952,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Robert Morgan,3.767809650974757,6.015031928953553,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,4.240216107868139,4.099094618364796,PLA use outdoors?,\"I have been using PLA filament for two years now and have had good prints. ABS on the other hand has not been so good, so my choice of filament is PLA. \n\nI am getting ready to do a sign for the American Legion and the colors are black, blue, and red and are 0.8 mm thin. The black letters are 4\"\" x 2.5\"\", blue are 3\"\" x 2\"\" and the red are 7.75\"\" x 5.5\"\". I plan to treat them with UV protection spray and attach them with clear epoxy to white back lit Plexiglass. \n\nAs the letters are quite thin, my question is how well will this hold up in the weather? The sign hangs on a pole that points east & west so the letters will be facing north and south. The original was painted with spray paint and the red paint south side faded to the point you could hardly see it at all. The sign had been there for some time and was done at a professional sign company.\n\",yulivee,\"Keep in mind that PLA has a much lower temperature point, where is starts getting flexible. I once had PLA-printed parts in my car in the summer for three hours and when I came back, they where bent. \n\nI don't know about the weather conditions in your local environment, but if you experience hot temperatures and your sign is hanging in direct sunlight, I would suggest to make sure you secure the letters against bending (e.g. cover them with a coat of epoxy or something like this).\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n2953,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bartosz Królak,0.0,3.25325199599518,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,How to control 3d printer printing in metal?,\"I have a question. Home printers are controlled via open-source software such as Pronterface. These printers print mostly in plastic, but how to control the \"\"metal\"\" printer. The principle of the printing here is a little different. Is it possible to use, for example, Pronterface for this task or the completely different software is needed?\n\",Jexoteric,\"Pronterface would control the printer, but you would need a slicer that could give you g-code that works with said metal printer. Being it would be using metal, most of those are powder based, using a laser to sinter. The slicers for FDM based machines would not create the correct g-code for the application. I know there has been some effort around powder based printers (both metal and plastic) but I do not know of any software that has resulted from these efforts.\n\nThis wiki index for powder printers may be of some help to find out what software they are working on, most likely a custom solution.\nhttp://reprap.org/wiki/Powder\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n2997,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bartosz Królak,1.726248027126092,4.577362046013235,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,\"Slicer for \"\"metal\"\" 3d printer\",\"In my last topic I learned that Pronterface can control powder 3D printer provided that the slicer generate g-code for printer which is printing from metal. My question is as follows. Is there a slicer (open-source or other easily accessible), which will generate g-code that will be able to command the printer which operates on the following principle?\n\n\n\",Shahin,\"Laser SLS printers (3D Metal Printer) software requirements are very similar to SLA printers specially laser ones. \n\nThere are lots of different tools which you can use together.\n\nYou can use Lasershark 3D together with creationworkshop. \n\nAlso you can convert your source file to SVG or image files, using Slic3r, nanoDLP SLC2PNG or Asiga Stomp/Sleece. And convert SVG or Image files to toolpaths using cad.py, gcodeplot or any other freely available softwares. \n\",0.0,0.0\n3091,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bartosz Królak,1.726248027126092,3.7976649486717515,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How to build a metal-based 3D printer?,\"I have a hypothetical question. From which parts can I build a metal-based 3D printer and can I buy those parts somewhere?\n\",user802599,\"I think this depends on what you are trying to accomplish with the 3D printer.\n\nI have seen people online build metal 3D printers from a robot arm and a welder this would probably be the simplest design and build but robot arms that can weld are expensive.\n\nI have also seen that someone at MIT build a glass 3D printer by building a small kiln with a hole at the bottom and moving it around like a normal extrusion printer. This method might work for a metal printer as well if you could get the temperatures right. This might be cheap enough a hobbyist could do it as well because you just need the same parts as a normal FDM 3d printer just able to more more weight. \nBut with the same parts you could also do lost pla casting and that would be a simpler approach with a better end product. \n\nBut probably what you would be really interested in building would be a laser sintering 3D printer. Where a layer of powder is put down and then a laser melts part of the powered to join it to the model. For this the main thing you need would be the laser. I don't know a lot about how these printer work but the laser would need to be able to melt metal so I would think it would need to be very powerful and that would make it very expensive.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n2965,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R0b0tn1k,3.267423727073639,3.8339662240819474,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Printrbot going off axis when initializing,\"I have a strange problem with my Printrbot Simple Metal.\n\nWhen I start printing it's suddenly trying to go off axis before starting to print. All is fine once it actually starts to print, but it's very annoying to hear the sound on the start and end of each print.\n\nThat can't be good on the motors and chains either, something is going to give out at some point.\n\nHere's what that sounds like: YouTube - IMG 5600.\n\nMy OctoPi settings are: \n\n\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"It is very common that FDM 3D printers \"\"home\"\" their position at the start of each print (as defined by the slicers preprint g-code). This is done by deliberately running the end effector towards its expected X=0, Y=0 position until it hits the endstop switches for each axis. Could it be this behaviour you are seeing? If so, I would suggest checking that your endstops are functioning correctly.\n\nYou can manually activate this homing action using the G-code G28 in (for instance) Pronterface. Alternatively, you can verify that your endstops are actually working using the M119-command while pressing each switch manually. \n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n2969,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Carl Witthoft,2.1782824847157594,3.4603828048255023,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How to map Cura printspace to Prusa I3 printspace,\"I seem to be observing a couple problems w/ Cura2.3 OSX . It seems to be placing the sliced data (gcode) over to negative X by a cm or so. Further, the X- and Y-axes displayed in Cura definitely map to Y and X when the printer starts up. I've verified that I have the printer's X and Y end stops and motors connected to the correct outputs. Now, I can just rotate my parts before slicing, but I'd rather have things be \"\"correct\"\" to begin with. \nI've read the relevant info at question 1323, but I'd rather if possible adjust the Printer Settings for my defined printer in the Cura Preferences sub-menu. I couldn't find any description of what the \"\"printer head\"\" X and Y offset values mean there, nor what the \"\"Z-gantry\"\" value does either.\nI'm running from the SD card; no USB connection. \n\",Carl Witthoft,\"Well, in my particular case, it helps to have the X and Y control (motor and endstop switch) plugged in to the correct ports :-( . That took care of the X vs. Y orientation problem.\n\nIf you command \"\"Home All\"\" either via the LCD panel or over USB, the nozzle should sit in the front left corner of the bed as you face the machine (\"\"stage right\"\" for you thespians). \nThe link Chris T provided, ultimaker, provides helpful background information as well.\n\nNext, if there are small offsets, find control can be set with a script similar to the following (leave out the auto-levelling command if you don't have that),\nfrom printerbot talk forum .\n\nM104 S{print_temperature}\nG21 ;metric values\nG90 ;absolute positioning\nM82 ;set extruder to absolute mode\nM107 ;start with the fan off\nG28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops\nG28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops\nM109 S{print_temperature} ;wait on temperature line\nG29 ; Auto bed levelling\n;G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops\nG92 X132.4 Y20; Reset actual position after G29 bug\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length\nG1 F{travel_speed}\n\n\nAnd finally, there's a calibration file at thingiverse which prints large squares so you can see the exact offset. I hope to get that file modded with a couple markers (indents, e.g.) to verify orientation as well as location.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n3027,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Carl Witthoft,3.0576060275493275,3.956213014801466,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Is cutting the arm off the Z-axis switch a good idea?,\"We all know (or should!) that the repeatability of common spring-arm limit switches is crappy at best. I'm looking to build & install one of the precision height adjusters for the Z-axis limit switch, and noticed a post on some forum suggesting removing the arm and triggering the switch button directly (e.g. with a screw end).\n\nHas anyone tried this, and if so has the repeatability of Z-homing improved any?\n\nEdit\n\nSorry -- this is a stock Prusa i3, which depends on physical contact between the vertically-moving subassembly and a microswitch mounted on the frame. \n\",StarWind0,\"No. Buy a better switch if it's an issue (see below).\n\nYou would need to have some very tight tolerances to hit that micro button with whatever your arm is. If you had a machine with good tolerances you would not be considering this modification. That alone is why I would say this is not the greatest idea.\n\nFollowing it might work if your Z is connected to the hot end and smashing into the bed. But I suspect you will still have a myriad of issues, such as the switch getting out of position enough to cause the head to crash into the machine. The real question now is how many rotations of the Z axis could happen if the printer is moving at maximum speed and the button is pressed? That metal arm is your grace period. Now your printer is potentially smashing into the switch.\n\nLastly, just get a switch with a more solid and less springy metal tab.\n\nThe real question is whether there is actually a variance caused by the metal arm? I would suspect that it hits the switch very precisely, consistently and within an acceptable tolerance. Removing the arm will buy you little. Replacing it with a stiffer-arm switch might serve you better.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3027,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Carl Witthoft,3.0576060275493275,3.956213014801466,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Is cutting the arm off the Z-axis switch a good idea?,\"We all know (or should!) that the repeatability of common spring-arm limit switches is crappy at best. I'm looking to build & install one of the precision height adjusters for the Z-axis limit switch, and noticed a post on some forum suggesting removing the arm and triggering the switch button directly (e.g. with a screw end).\n\nHas anyone tried this, and if so has the repeatability of Z-homing improved any?\n\nEdit\n\nSorry -- this is a stock Prusa i3, which depends on physical contact between the vertically-moving subassembly and a microswitch mounted on the frame. \n\",Jexoteric,\"While I haven't seen this on a Z axis for a printer personally, there is no reason it wouldn't work, and would improve your repeatability in theory. Removing the arm on the switch is taking away the lever. Going back to simple machine mechanics, the lever gives you a larger range of motion in which the button could be triggered, with the tradeoff that you get a larger target to hit. How much of an improvement depends on the exact switch, where the button is compared to the axis of the switch, and how long the switch is. \n\nMy Shapeoko 3 CNC router has a switch for all three end stops that do not have arms, and my Original Prusa i3 mk2 has switches without lever arms on X and Y axis endstops, so there is is no reason it won't work for your i3 Z axis, you just need to make sure you can accurately hit the small button on the switch.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5666,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Carl Witthoft,3.0576060275493275,3.789629108199975,0.0,3.1880595895805834,4.091740895605862,4.099094618364796,Music from the printer?,\"Harking back to the days of \"\"singing disk drives,\"\" I am wondering if anyone's written music to be performed on a 3D printer. Most of us have noticed in passing that the servo motors for X and Y drive generate a different pitch depending on motion speed. With some care and experimentation, one could write g-code to produce not only a tone but even a 2-tone chord. So -- has this been done? Does anyone want to do so? (Note that there's no need to simultaneously produce a print, but that would be even classier).\n\",mac,\"Yes, it has been done before, see here and here.\n\nThe README file of the first repository linked above contains a detailed explanation of the basic idea/calculations involved. A short excerpt:\n\n\n As you can set the parameters of G1 in such a way as to precisely control the velocity and the distance of a movement along a certain axis, you can control the operation frequency of the stepper motors as well as the actual time to complete a movement.\n\n\nOn another note (pun intended), you can also play music by using the code M300.\n\",3.5068404193471867,2.0769199823829045\n5666,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Carl Witthoft,3.0576060275493275,3.789629108199975,0.0,3.1880595895805834,4.091740895605862,4.099094618364796,Music from the printer?,\"Harking back to the days of \"\"singing disk drives,\"\" I am wondering if anyone's written music to be performed on a 3D printer. Most of us have noticed in passing that the servo motors for X and Y drive generate a different pitch depending on motion speed. With some care and experimentation, one could write g-code to produce not only a tone but even a 2-tone chord. So -- has this been done? Does anyone want to do so? (Note that there's no need to simultaneously produce a print, but that would be even classier).\n\",Ezra,\"I actually did this, on my Malyan M150. \n\nAfter not that much experimentation at all it turned out that the frequency of the produced tone scales linearly with the speed of the motors. Due to the nature of the way humans perceive music, the actual frequencies do not matter at all, just the relative difference in frequency between the tones. This means that it is actually really easy to let a 3D printer play a tune, you just have to make sure that when the next tone needs to have a frequency that is for example 20% higher than the last one, the motor needs to move 20% faster, no need to actually measure at which speeds the printer produces which tones. \n\nOne of the main issues turned out to be the maximum speed of the motors, which wasn't high enough for some of the higher notes, but this issue could be solved by multiplying all the speeds by a number lower than 1, thereby lowering the required speeds while still maintaining the original melody. Playing two tones at the same time proved to be a bit too difficult for my not that great programming skills, while not being worth the effort because somehow there was quite a large difference in volume between the motors. \n\nIn the end, I made a MATLAB script that converts MIDI files to G-code with the following result: 3D-printer playing popcorn song\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n5967,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Carl Witthoft,3.618048892289167,3.401230309423458,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,\"How to add \"\"skin\"\" to a Voronoi shape?\",\"Suppose I'm given a shape with a Voronoi pattern, such as this lamp. I'd like to be able to add a \"\"skin\"\" which covers the complete shape on the inner surface so I could print it with translucent material to produce a more-or-less uniform glow. Here's an example of what I'd like to end up with: tea lamp shade. Any ideas on how to reverse-engineer a Voronoi object? \n\",Carl Witthoft,\"I posted this to an Autodesk forum, and a fellow named \"\"MagWeb\"\" proposed the following solution. I have not tried it yet. \n\n\n A possible workflow depends much on the overall shape of the voronoi\n object:\n If it's convex all over (like an egg) or convex and planar (like a\n cylinder) e.g:\n \n \n SelectAll (Ctrl+A or Cmd+A on MAC)\n Run Edit/FitPrimitive and set its PrimitiveType to ConvexHull (CreateNewObjects checked)\n Run MakeSolid on this hull object and set its SolidType to Accurate. Accurate enables the OffsetDistance slider. Pull it down a bit and hit\n update. You want to get a result intersecting but showing the voronoi\n object. If needed adjust the offset. Finally accept.\n Now activate both the voronoi and the MakeSolid result and run BooleanUnion\n Show the FitPrimitive object again (MakeSolid did hide it before) and run MakeSolid again in Accurate mode. Now set a slightly bigger\n offset as you did before. The difference will determine the \"\"lining's\"\"\n thickness. Accept\n Activate the BoolleanUnion result first and the last MakeSolid result and run BooleanDifference to get a hollow object. You might use\n another intersecting object to bool-off an opening the bottom.\n \n \n Harder but doable with a different workflow on an voronoi object\n owning concave regions...\n\n\nedit\n\nHaving run some trials, I can confirm this works for simple convex objects. If there are concavities, most likely the source shape needs to be chopped into sections each of which can be treated as convex.\n I played around with Meshmixer's \"\"apply pattern\"\" functions with limited success. I could get a form-fitting pattern shape but with a rather uneven surface. Some fine-tuning of the pattern parameters may help. Note that the new shape tends to be as thick as the original voronoi object, so it may well be better to do something like the following:\n1) create a duplicate of the original\n2) shrink the duplicate by a few percent\n3) align the two objects to a common origin and take the boolean difference to create a thin-wall version of the original.\n4) Build the pattern object based on that thinwall object. \n\nedit number 2\n\nI succeeded! For those who care, I took an open Voronoi glasses case and put a skin inside to protect your glasses. See this Thingiverse item\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n6513,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Carl Witthoft,2.8153892694839717,5.976416855496683,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Toxicity of Light-curing resin?,\"I'm one of the lucky (??) Kickstarter supporters who received a T3D resin printer. This uses a proprietary (so far as I can tell) resin which cures under exposure to visible, rather than the usual UV, light. The manual is full of dire warnings about touching the resin, but no MSDS.\nAnyone know if there is a datasheet on their resin, or more generally, for light-curing resins in general?\n(see myt3d.com for limited info on the machine and the resin)\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"While you probably cannot find an MSDS on the resin for your printer (yet), they are out there for other resin based printers. Here's a generic MSDS on one for Objet RGD515:\n\n\n\nIt's not a pretty thing. \n\nTo back this up, Fabbaloo has two articles out which talk about the toxicity of liquid resin which is light cured. I'm not entirely positive your resin falls into this arena, but would assume since they state in the handling instructions it's toxic, it's probably right along the same lines as the other toxic resins. Please note, in the article it states there are resins out which aren't toxic. They suggest one should handle all resins of this type as though they are toxic unless you have specific documentation which states otherwise. \n\nIn one of the articles (Nov 2015) quotes findings which were published by the University of California, Riverside. Their study focused on zebrafish embryos and the toxicity of two different 3D printed materials which are commonly used. The materials were Stratasys Dimension Elite (plastic extrusion) and Formlab’s Form 1+ (photo-cured resin). These printed samples were placed in zebrafish tanks to observe their effects on fish embryos and compare to “control” tanks without the samples.\n\nThe University stated:\n\n\n While the embryos exposed to parts from the plastic-melting printer had slightly decreased average survival rates compared to control embryos, the embryos exposed to parts from the liquid-resin printer had significantly decreased survival rates, with more than half of the embryos dead by day three and all dead by day seven. And of the few zebrafish embryos that hatched after exposure to parts from the liquid-resin printer, 100 percent of the hatchlings had developmental abnormalities.\n\n\nNote: Here is the second Fabbaloo article from April 2016.\n\nFomrlabs has quite an extensive list of MSDS sheets for their products. Their page states the following about their resin materials:\n\n\n Formlabs Standard resins are designed to be similar or safer to handle as other household chemicals or adhesives. When measuring potential acute health effects of inhalation or ingestion, there are no known significant effects or critical hazards. Eye contact may cause eye irritation. Skin contact may cause an allergic skin reaction. The safety data sheets (SDS) are up to date for every resin product and follow the latest government guidelines. Always consult the SDS as the primary source of information to understand safety and handling of Formlabs materials.\n \n Use chemical-resistant gloves - such as nitrile or neoprene; do not use latex - when handling liquid resin, including when removing printed parts from the printer. Exposure to resin in the liquid form can cause mild skin irritation for some people. If you get any on your skin, make sure to wash thoroughly with soap and water before moving on to other activities. Do not use solvents to wash hands, face, or any body parts. Wear gloves and use alcohol, followed by soap and water, to clean tools after handling resin.\n\n\nWhile this is not conclusive about your specific resin, like was stated, always treat the material as though it is toxic until documentation tells you otherwise. If all else fails, treat it as toxic and you can't go wrong.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n2972,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,guillaume.molter,3.0576060275493275,3.298894097750058,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,What are the downsides and aftereffects of using a smaller nozzle?,\"A lot of consumer desktop F.D.M. printers comes with a 0.4mm nozzle. I'm looking to print fine details objects and I was considering trying to use a smaller size nozzle. But before I do so I would like to establish a list of downsides and unwanted consequences.\n\",tbm0115,\"Here are some things to look out for when switching to a smaller nozzle size:\n\n\nCurling (out of the nozzle): Make sure the nozzle is clear of any debris to avoid the extruded filament from catching and therefore curling around the nozzle.\nWarping: You might experience more warping on the build plate and delamination between layers as a result of the smaller surface area of the layers.\nReduce speeds: You should reduce your print speeds anyways when printing fine-detail objects. However, the smaller nozzle size will need a bit more time to adhere to other objects (see above).\nStandoff distance: The distance between the nozzle and build plate, a.k.a standoff, should be a bit smaller with the nozzle size. Typically people use the paper reference (using a piece of paper to \"\"calibrate\"\" the standoff), which is about 0.004\"\".\nMake sure your slicing engine knows the change! Most slicing software will allow you to adjust the nozzle size. This can also be used to fine-tune your machine.\nBeware of clogging: Clogging is usually a result of poor cooling between your heater block and your drive gear, poor filament quality, and/or incorrect extrusion rates. You might want to perform a benchmark print with the new nozzle to \"\"rediscover\"\" which temperatures work best with the new \"\"basin\"\" volume in the nozzle.\n\n\nI'm sure there are many others, but this should help get you started.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n2972,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,guillaume.molter,3.0576060275493275,3.298894097750058,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,What are the downsides and aftereffects of using a smaller nozzle?,\"A lot of consumer desktop F.D.M. printers comes with a 0.4mm nozzle. I'm looking to print fine details objects and I was considering trying to use a smaller size nozzle. But before I do so I would like to establish a list of downsides and unwanted consequences.\n\",0scar,\"In addition to the answer of tbm0115; special care has to be given to the strength and stiffness of the model. Lines are thinner and thus when using the same amount of walls and infill percentage, the walls will be less stiff. This requires a higher percentage of infill or more walls to counteract this phenomenon. Obviously, this will cause the print to take longer.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2983,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,guillaume.molter,3.452496054252184,3.9991925626994775,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,What makes a good PLA filament?,\"The quality of the filament is frequently mentioned either as the source of an issue but also as the solution to a problem. \n\nI know that the way you use,store and protect your filament will greatly impact it's quality, especially overtime, but here I'm interested to understand what makes a brand new, out of the air-tight package, good or bad? What to look for when you buy filament (specs,chemical,weight,...)? What are some brands that are notoriously know to make \"\"high quality\"\" filament?\n\",Chris Thompson,\"General characteristics of a \"\"quality\"\" filament:\n\n\nManufactured to a \"\"high\"\" dimensional tolerance. Measure the filament in several places along it's length and check for consistency. I'm pretty happy with filament that has less than 0.05mm difference between its thickest and thinnest diameter.\nLack of impurities. I've never had a problem with impurities (that I know of) but I've heard and read about it. Finer nozzle diameters will be more susceptible to clogs caused by foreign matter in the filament.\nGood packaging. You already mentioned it, but good packaging is a sign of a reputable filament supplier. It should be sealed in a fairly \"\"air-tight\"\" bag with a desiccant to keep it dry.\nTechnical information available from manufacturer. Quality filament manufactures tend to provide information about their filament's characteristics and other information such as optimal settings, etc.\nGood reputation. This one isn't necessarily fair to newcomers, but there is lots of information online about the reliability and quality of various filaments. In this case, google is your friend. (Keep in mind that there will be plenty of complaints that result from poor settings/skill and have nothing to do with the quality of the filament.)\n\n\nI hope this helps! :-)\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n2979,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tee dee,3.452496054252184,4.041499045332291,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,Affordable 3D printing of reflector,\"Are there any 3D printing services or something similar to 3D print or injection mold light reflectors? \n\nI'm trying to find something that is similar to PCB printing that allows you to upload a 3D design of a reflector and they will produce this reflector and coat it with mirror surface.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"You can make flat reflectors with glass panels or acrylic panels and apply window mirror film. Ordinary window glass might be less expensive than acrylic and many places will cut to size, but unusual shapes might not be an option. The mirror film is relatively easy to apply and the packages have instructions included.\n\nFor the hologram pyramid you referenced, one could 3d print the bracket at the base. If your design is different, yet similar, that's an option for relatively easy construction.\n\n100-200 pieces is really too small of a quantity to justify expensive injection molding. If the part is not too complex, one could create the model with 3d printing, then build a silicone mold around it, followed by pouring polyester or epoxy casting resin to make larger quantities. A better idea of the shape would be useful, but the information I've provided may head you in a practical direction.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n2979,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tee dee,3.452496054252184,4.041499045332291,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,Affordable 3D printing of reflector,\"Are there any 3D printing services or something similar to 3D print or injection mold light reflectors? \n\nI'm trying to find something that is similar to PCB printing that allows you to upload a 3D design of a reflector and they will produce this reflector and coat it with mirror surface.\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"I would not recommend extrusion printers for this, because they are unlikely to produce a smooth enough surface. To get a clean surface, the irregularities have to be a fraction of visible wavelengths, which is to say on the order of 0.01 micron.\nWithout knowing what sort of reflector you're thinking of (flat? spherical? parabolic?), it's hard to recommend a specific optimal, cheap approach. All in all, you're probably best off looking in standard catalogs such as Edmund Optics.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n2988,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,jmb2341,2.8153892694839717,4.520519813775997,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Large flat ABS print curling during cooldown,\"I am printing a large flat print, approximately 8\"\" x 4\"\" x 1/8\"\". It has good adhesion when printing and lays flat when finished. I allow the print to cool slowly but the center of the print bows upward 1/16\"\"-1/8\"\". It bows in both directions but more noticeably in the longer direction. The corners are not curling up this is the center of the print lifting. \n\nI started printing at 25% infill but have tried 100%. 100% bows less but still bows. This does not happen with PLA or PETG. 100% fill was printed with no fan. 25% printed with no fan for first layers and fan at 40% after. \n\nIs there anything I can do to stop this from happening?\n\nPrinter: Lulzbot TAZ 5 w/ 0.5mm hotend in sealed enclosure. Heated bed at 115C, extruer at 240C. Environmental temperatures are 30-37C depending on the stage of the print. Hotter as it continues. \n\nFollow Up Questions:\n\nWhat is the ideal environmental printing temperature for ABS? \nIf a part were reheated could an existing arch be corrected? \n\nUpdate: Build Plate Thermal Images w/plate set @ 115C\n\n\n\n\",tbm0115,\"Short Answer: Make the environment temperature is a bit warmer to offset the cooling rate.\n\nLong Answer\n\nAll materials shrink as they cool, but some materials shrink at a much higher rate than others. This is primarily driven by temperature coefficients and thermal conductivity of the individual materials. There are calculators available online that you can get more involved with discovering how this works mathematically.\n\nHowever, in layman's terms, the temperature between your build plate and the first layers of plastic are so drastically different, that at a certain point the plastic becomes under tension as it shrinks faster/more than the build plate. Over time, since the surface tension between the part and the build plate is no longer in the way, the corner can continue to shrink.\n\nHere are some options:\n\n\nEnsure your build plate temperatures are correct acceptable. I've had success with 112C in NW United States. Increasing the temperature will be an attempt to bridge the gap between BP temps and plastic temps during the final cool-down.\nSearch for ways to \"\"anchor\"\" the part to the build plate. There are lots of resources on the internet on how to do this, so I'll spare you the list.\nIncrease your environment temperature. I highly suggest this because it can help reduce other errors you might encounter throughout the printing process, such as de-lamination, warping, brittleness, etc. I'm not recommending placing a space heater next to your printer (really, don't do that!), but perhaps even a space heater in the room can help regulate the environment temperature a bit better.\nConsider other environment variables. Consider things like \"\"Is my printer next to a window?\"\", \"\"Do I live in a particularly cold environment in general?\"\", or even \"\"Am I baking cookies in the next room?\"\". A lot of these seemingly meaningless variables play an important role in ensuring quality prints.\n\n\n(I know there's more, so I'll add onto this answer a bit more as I remember them)\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2990,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hacky,2.8153892694839717,4.646992377627676,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Wanhao duplicator i3 print bed support warped,\"As you can see in the picture, my heated bed support is too low on the right side, even touching the Y-axis chassis end plate. \n\n\n\nThis is only the case on the front of the printer. The back is perfectly straight. Do you know how this can happen and what can be done? \n\",Hacky,\"okay, after ferociously dismantling the whole bed I found out that the bed and the bed support are perfectly straight!\nSo there is something warping the bed and support. De Y-axis bars are perfectly flat too. \n\nI found out that my table is not flat! This made the complete printer warped and even bent the print bed. put some cardboard under the frontleft foot and presto! As flat as it should be! \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n2999,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,make it happen,3.452496054252184,6.910640167721217,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Marlin Adjusting feedrate,\"I'm using the Marlin firmware (1.1.0-RC7 - 31 July 2016) for a 3d printer. Currently the printing is not perfect due to slight inaccuracies in movements along the x and y axis. I'm trying to change the feedrate for speed along the xy axis whilst the printer is in operation to make sure the printer stops on time and prints accurately.\n\nI have some code for controlling the feedrate but the problem is that I'm not sure where I am supposed make these adjustments. In the configuration.h file I see this code: (lines 742 and 753 )\n\n/*line 742*/ #define HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY (50*60) \n/*line 753*/ #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 5, 25} // (mm/sec)\n\n\nI'm probably misunderstanding something but it seems like this sets the feedrate to a default value which is the same as the maximum. \n\nIf the feedrate changes during printing I'm guessing it would be done in Marlin_main.cpp but I'm not sure which part it actually changes. Can someone point me in the right direction here? \n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"You can change the maximum allowable feedrate in Configuration.h, but the actual feedrate that is used isn't determined by your firmware. The feedrate is specified in the G-Code file. A command like\n\nG0 X10.0 Y15.0 Z3.0 F9000\n\n\nindicates a move to (10,15,3) at a feedrate of 9000 mm/min. If F is not specified, the last used feedrate is used.\n\nYou just have to provide the appropriate G-code commands with the feedrate you want in them. There's no reason to modify the firmware to get a different feedrate.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n2999,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,make it happen,3.452496054252184,6.910640167721217,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Marlin Adjusting feedrate,\"I'm using the Marlin firmware (1.1.0-RC7 - 31 July 2016) for a 3d printer. Currently the printing is not perfect due to slight inaccuracies in movements along the x and y axis. I'm trying to change the feedrate for speed along the xy axis whilst the printer is in operation to make sure the printer stops on time and prints accurately.\n\nI have some code for controlling the feedrate but the problem is that I'm not sure where I am supposed make these adjustments. In the configuration.h file I see this code: (lines 742 and 753 )\n\n/*line 742*/ #define HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY (50*60) \n/*line 753*/ #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 5, 25} // (mm/sec)\n\n\nI'm probably misunderstanding something but it seems like this sets the feedrate to a default value which is the same as the maximum. \n\nIf the feedrate changes during printing I'm guessing it would be done in Marlin_main.cpp but I'm not sure which part it actually changes. Can someone point me in the right direction here? \n\",FeliceM,\"You have the lines to adjust the feed rate.\nThe first one (line 742) is relevant to the maximum feed rate XY while homing (not during printing). I think this is not an issue in your particular case and you may leave it as it is.\n\nThe second one (line 753) is the feed rate while printing for XY. Particularly the numbers in the brackets refers to ( X, Y, Z, E). If your printer is moving it may affect XY more than Z and E. So you may try to adjust the first two numbers.\n\nDue to the very specific situation is impossible to give you a feed rate based on calculation because you are dealing with external accelerations caused by the mobile situation. You will need to try and adjust it until you get right.\n\nAnother setting that may also help you to compensate the external acceleration, if any, is the acceleration of those two axes.You should find two lines like these:\n\n\n#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {1500,1500,50,250} \n#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 1500 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves\n\n\nHowever the acceleration of the axes may impact on the quality of the printing.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3008,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,make it happen,2.528907649931287,5.028329421694284,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Marlin - slowing down print speed,\"I'm currently using Marlin firmware (1.1.0-RC7 - 31 July 2016) and would like to experiment with print speed. \n\nIn the file Marlin_main.cpp I see in the process_next_command() function, there is a variable called current_command which (supposedly) holds the G-Code values for travel distance and feedrate(speed). \n\nI'm expecting the actual command for travelling to look something like this:\n\nG1 X50 Y25.3 E22.4 F1500 \n\n\nbut I'm getting tied up figuring out exactly where it is. I'm assuming if I can change F1500 to F200, I can effectively slow down the print speed. \n\nI'm aware of line 753 in the configuration.h file:\n\n#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 5, 25} // (mm/sec)\n\n\nI'm not interested in setting a fixed slow feedrate but would rather change individual G-Code commands. Can someone tell me where I can find the actual G-Code command to edit it?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"G-code commands are not in the firmware. You're trying to find something in the code that simply isn't there. Your slicer is responsible for generating a g-code file, which you can then send to your printer (either by printing from an SD-card) or using a host program like repetier or cura. The commands in the G-code file are then executed by the firmware, but they're not part of it.\n\nHow the commands are actually processed is not trivial, and it happens in multiple places.\n\nThe commands are processed in the process_commands of Marlin_main.cpp. Upon reading a G1 command, it calls get_coordinates to parse the X/Y/Z/feedrate values from the command. Next, the prepare_move function is called, which applies the necessary transformations (clamping to endstops, and the reverse kinematics if you have a delta) before calling plan_buffer_line (which is in planner.cpp) which does some more preprocessing and computes a \"\"block\"\" which is pushed onto the buffer. Next, planner_recalculate is called, which iterates over the blocks to find feasible acceleration patterns for them. Finally, an interrupt (in stepper.cpp, ISR(TIMER1_COMPA_vect)) periodically reads blocks from the buffer and actually sends the signals to the steppers.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3013,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Merlin,3.267423727073639,4.580762688458215,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Shifted Layers on Replicator 2,\"A few weeks ago a shift between layers in the y-direction (from the front to the back of the printer) of my Makerbot Replicator 2 appeared. \n\nAll prints have some small shifts between layers, but if the extruder has to move large distances (e.g. when I print the same object near the front and near the back of the print bed), they can reach up to 2 cm or so. In those cases the extruder seem to move the wrong distance towards the back, resulting in a shifted layer, and then moves about the same distance towards the front. Therefore objects at the front of the bed often are shifted less than at the back. Here's an example of some small shifts in the 3D benchy (printed near the front of the bed). They are particularly obvious in the hull and in the supports of the cabin:\n\n\n\nI've tightened the pulleys, lubricated the rods, restored the device to factory settings and made sure the connectors are plugged in properly, but the problems persist. I also have the impression that the locations of the shifted layers are quite reproducible. \n\nFrom what I understand problems such as these along the x-axis, are generally caused by broken cables, which are pressed upon as the extruder moves. However, the pulley for the y-axis doesn't move, so it seems unlikely that the cable is the cause.\n\nAny help is very much appreciated!\n\",user5344,\"Its not possible to say without seeing the physical machine but I would assume its a mechanical problem. Perhaps the belt or a gear is worn out missing some piece so it slips sometimes. Or the gear its a little loose on its axle. When machine is off you can move the extruder by hand and try to feel if it does so smoothly. \n\nI would not think its electrical but first thing to do is to detach all cables and put them back, because its easy to do. Second is the dismount stepper motor and check that its gear is attached firmly. If there is a bad cable then flexing and pulling it slightly might escalate the problem so that its always broken, which can be a good thing since intermittent problems are so hard to find.\n\nIf its the stepper motor driver electronics then a new driver board is needed, last thing to try unless you have two machines and can borrow a part.\n\nI emailed makerbot support once about another problem, I did get some advice that way.\n\",0.0,0.0\n3015,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,3.618048892289167,4.884595513814489,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,\"Z axis top brackets, of P3Steel, differ between v1.x/2.x and v4\",\"I have been studying the differences between version 2.x and version 4 of the P3Steel frames - in particular the AC08 bracket at the top of the frame which secures the top of the smooth bars and threaded rods of the Z axis on both the left and right sides. Here is the laser cut parts, for version 1.x, showing the part labelled as AC08:\n\n\n\nVersion 1.x/2.x has the AC08 bracket with two holes, one for the threaded rod and one for the top of the smooth bar (from the lasercut image):\n\n\n\nHowever, in version 4, the corresponding top Z axis bracket only has one hole for the smooth bar and just an indentation for the bearing which holds the top of the threaded rod (from Twitter):\n\n\n\nHere is a close up of the diagram from the google docs repository, listed in the v4 section on the RepRap Wiki page for the P3Steel, which shows the bearing assembly just apparently \"\"resting\"\" against the indentation:\n\n\n\nHere is the bracket shown with the bar and threaded rod (again, from google docs):\n\n\n\nDoes anyone know why the top of the threaded rod is not secured by a hole, as it was in version 1.x/2.x? It just does not look particularly well secured.\n\nUnder the list of version 4 changes, see 2. Frame versions, it is mentioned:\n\n\n The extruder no longer hits the Z axis top bracket\n\n\nIs this the reason why the change has been made?\n\",Greenonline,\"This is mere supposition on my part, and not a definitive answer. The real answer would need to come from either the designer or someone connected to them, I guess. I have contacted people around the designer and invited them to comment/answer, but that appears to still be \"\"pending\"\"...\n\n\n\nIn response, or - rather - with respect to, to the comments below by tjb1 and Tom, I have been reading around the topic, and found some interesting articles. \n\nThe excerpt below from \"\"An exploration of the topic\"\", backs up Tom's argument about constraining the rods at both ends being bad practice, and explains why it is so. Whilst acknowledging that a loose, or floating end, is still an issue that needs to be dealt with, the article also states that constraining the end is not really a solution, as it can create more problems elsewhere (I have added the bold highlighting to the relevant text):\n\n\n Wobble is pretty simple. Because the lead screw is mounted rigidly to\n the motor, it needs to be perfectly straight and square to the axis\n its trying to move. If it's not, as the motor rotates, that offset will\n be converted into an elliptical motion instead of turning in a perfect\n circle. In big CNC world, as the axis is normally bolted to a\n huge/heavy table which refuses to yield to this movement, it results\n in breaking your motor or motor coupling (weakest point in the\n connection). This is what flex couplings are designed to fix – if you\n can’t guarantee a perfectly square mating between motor and axis, you\n use a coupler with flex so that any movement can be soaked up in\n flexing the coupler and the lead screw/rod moves in a nice circle\n without busting your motor or mounts. This is true when you have a\n good solid supported connection on the lead screw like you’d see on a\n ‘proper’ CNC. However on the Solidoodle, as the top end of the Z-Axis\n is ‘unsupported’ and its only connection to anything is to the table\n via a tiny little nut, its free to ‘flop about in the breeze’ so to\n speak. Even a small 0.1mm offset from center can result in a much much\n greater ‘wiggle’ at the top of the screw clearly visible to the eye.\n Throw in even a 0.05mm bend in the rod, and it gets further amplified.\n \n Adding better support to the axis, through a taller nut, multiple\n nuts, or supporting the end, would reduce the influence of this\n wobble. You do however, risk moving it to something else entirely –\n for example, making the lead screw rigid would mean that the forces\n would end up moving the motor itself, potentially causing fatigue\n issues with how its bolted to the sheet metal case (mine already moves\n a fair bit and its ‘stock’... making the screw rigid would see the\n motor having to absorb all that movement instead of half of it\n disappearing in movement of the screw...). Solving the motor movement\n by securing it ‘better’ to the case would mean that the movement now\n gets soaked up in the motor shaft and bearing, leading to premature\n stepper motor death.\n\n\nThus, I had originally presumed, when first posting this question, the earlier versions of the model would be superior, as they secured the top of the z-axis screw mechanism, that would reduce the amount of \"\"flapping about\"\" of the loose end, which in turn would result in less wobble. However, I had not bargained for the negative consequences.\n\nSo, is the reason that the top brackets of the z-axis, in the version 4 of the frame, lost their threaded rod/leadscrew top-end constraint, therefore to prevent premature motor wear, at the expense of exhibited wobble?\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3015,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,3.618048892289167,4.884595513814489,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,\"Z axis top brackets, of P3Steel, differ between v1.x/2.x and v4\",\"I have been studying the differences between version 2.x and version 4 of the P3Steel frames - in particular the AC08 bracket at the top of the frame which secures the top of the smooth bars and threaded rods of the Z axis on both the left and right sides. Here is the laser cut parts, for version 1.x, showing the part labelled as AC08:\n\n\n\nVersion 1.x/2.x has the AC08 bracket with two holes, one for the threaded rod and one for the top of the smooth bar (from the lasercut image):\n\n\n\nHowever, in version 4, the corresponding top Z axis bracket only has one hole for the smooth bar and just an indentation for the bearing which holds the top of the threaded rod (from Twitter):\n\n\n\nHere is a close up of the diagram from the google docs repository, listed in the v4 section on the RepRap Wiki page for the P3Steel, which shows the bearing assembly just apparently \"\"resting\"\" against the indentation:\n\n\n\nHere is the bracket shown with the bar and threaded rod (again, from google docs):\n\n\n\nDoes anyone know why the top of the threaded rod is not secured by a hole, as it was in version 1.x/2.x? It just does not look particularly well secured.\n\nUnder the list of version 4 changes, see 2. Frame versions, it is mentioned:\n\n\n The extruder no longer hits the Z axis top bracket\n\n\nIs this the reason why the change has been made?\n\",Álvaro Rey Rodríguez,\"I've just seen this right now, I'm Alvaro Rey, the designer of the p3steel v4 mod. The change was made, because with previous versions with the extruder homed, if you go up in the Z axis, the extruder motor could hit the Z axis top plate. So, in order to avoid that, I just changed the design.\n\nThe bearing in the z axis is not necessary but some people prefer to use it, in order to avoid wobble in the threaded rod. \n\nAnyways, I designed a printer part to fix the bearing in the Z top plate.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n3097,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,2.528907649931287,4.5130707292534495,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Steel versus MDF/Aluminium Y axis plate?,\"I have purchased a P3Steel v.4 kit that, rather unfortunately, comes with a steel Y plate. \n\n\n\nI understand that there may be interia, as well as stepper motor wear, issues related to the weight of the steel plate. Therefore I would like to substitute the steel plate for another material. I had considered aluminium, as recommended by the RepRap wiki - P3Steel/Frame Versions/ Version 4.0 :\n\n\n We recomended use aluminum beds for y axis.\n\n\nHowever, it was suggested, by a vendor, that I use laser cut 6 mm thick MDF, principally for reasons of economics and availablity, over aluminium.\n\nI have subsequently found a supplier of 3 mm thick aluminium 200 mm x 300 mm Y axis plates, so availability is no longer an issue, and the slightly higher cost is not really an issue for me. However, I was wondering whether there would be significantly less interia if using an MDF Y axis plate, than with an aluminium plate.\n\nI assume that the masses/densities of aluminium and MDF are comparable, and a magnitude less than that of steel.\n\nI have found the densities of aluminium and steel:\n\n\n Aluminium 2.7x103 kg/m3 (167 lb/ft3)\n \n Steel 7.82x103 kg/m3 (488 lb/ft3)\n\n\n[Source: Densities of Solids - Engineering ToolBox]\n\nThe density of MDF is given as 700–720 kg/m3 (43.7-44.95 lb/ft3), which is a magnitude less than that of aluminium.\n[Source: Medium-density fibreboard]\n\nThere is the issue that MDF can eventually warp, whereas aluminium supposedly does not, although the OP of Wanhao duplicator i3 print bed support warped shows that warpage is possible with aluminium plate - see Is the weather a problem for MDF frames? and Would a steel, instead of an aluminium, plate be reasonable?1.\n\n\n\nTL;DR\n\nConsidering the benefits of weight/inertia, stiffness and lack of deformation/warping:\n\n\nIs the difference in density between steel versus aluminium and/or MDF, make it worth switching from steel to aluminium or MDF?\nIs the additional weight loss of MDF over aluminium worth the risk of deformation of the MDF due to humidity/temperature?\n\n\n\n\nNotes\n\n1 I found this question after having written up my question, so I admit that there is a risk of duplicity of the answers. However, I am concentrating more of the comparison of aluminium and MDF in this post, rather than just steel versus aluminium. Also, my question deals with the Y axis heatbed support, rather than the heatbed itself.\n\",markshancock,\"I have not used MDF for building a printer before; but, I have used it for other projects. It has the advantage of being very flat (initially); but, it has a LOT of issues with moisture. It is basically just a compressed slurry or water-based glue and sawdust. If you expose it to humidity or water it will swell like a sponge. I would not consider it for anything that requires a dimensional stability. For that, Aluminum is your better bet.\n\nRegarding the material properties of AL vs MDF, here is a good comparison:\n\n\nNote that while MDF has about 1/4 the density of AL, it has a MUCH lower Elastic Modulus (1/17 of AL) For the same thickness, it MDF is MUCH easier to bend than AL. Also note the strength to weight ratio of AL is also better.\n\nEven at twice the thickness, my calculations indicate that, for the same load, 6mm MDF would deflect about twice as far as 3mm AL. Also when AL exists its elastic region it becomes plastic (bends) where MDF breaks.\n\nAnother aspect to consider is flammability. There a lot of heat sources around an FDM printer and if you are planning on a heated bed, there is one right there under the bed. Where MDF is hard to ignite, it is flammable and does not respond to heat well. On the other hand, AL can handle temperatures over 1000 degC and is a great thermal conductor for a bed heater.\n\nI would definitely choose AL over MDF for you printer bed. \n\nAnother option to consider it is using a bare PCB (like FR4). The material is really strong (it is fiberglass), is relatively inexpensive, and is fire resistant (hence the\"\"FR\"\" in the name). Some commercial printers use FR4 for their print bed. One disadvantage is that is can sometimes develop a curl and there is really no way to get it flat again.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n3098,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,2.8153892694839717,5.111285308748292,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,0.0,How can I determine whether my borosilicate glass is fake or not?,\"Is there actually a way to determine whether the sheet of glass that one has received from a Chinese supplier on eBay is actually a sheet of Borosilicate glass, and not just a piece of normal glass intended for glazing purposes?\n\nAre there any laminations, or markings/features, visible under a certain light or if the sheet is viewed at a particular angle?\n\nI ask because most of the 200 x 300 mm sheets on eBay are priced at around £16 - £26, but there are a few priced at just £10, which still claim to be toughened glass, although they do not mention the word Borosilicate, such as this one, 300x200x3mm 3D Printer Heated Bed Toughened Glass Clear Build Plate UK STOCK. \n\nTo paraphrase, \"\"Usually if things seem to good to be true, then they are probably fake.\"\" However, I wondered whether it was worth a punt as it is only £10, and then if I would be able to verify its veracity once it was in my hands.\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"Google turned up this thread: http://arstechnica.com/civis/viewtopic.php?t=96214\n\nThere don't seem to be any easy, definitive tests. You have two main options, both of which seem to require a fairly high level of laboratory skill (but nothing fancy in terms of equipment).\n\nThe refractive index of Borosilicate glass is very similar to vegetable oil (implying no reflection from a boundary if you have a pool of oil on the glass).\n\nThe density of the glass can be measured too, using a water bath. This should also be able to give a fairly accurate answer.\n\nStress testing seems the most reliable way to determine if you have a 'good' sample, but may be more expensive.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3098,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,2.8153892694839717,5.111285308748292,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,0.0,How can I determine whether my borosilicate glass is fake or not?,\"Is there actually a way to determine whether the sheet of glass that one has received from a Chinese supplier on eBay is actually a sheet of Borosilicate glass, and not just a piece of normal glass intended for glazing purposes?\n\nAre there any laminations, or markings/features, visible under a certain light or if the sheet is viewed at a particular angle?\n\nI ask because most of the 200 x 300 mm sheets on eBay are priced at around £16 - £26, but there are a few priced at just £10, which still claim to be toughened glass, although they do not mention the word Borosilicate, such as this one, 300x200x3mm 3D Printer Heated Bed Toughened Glass Clear Build Plate UK STOCK. \n\nTo paraphrase, \"\"Usually if things seem to good to be true, then they are probably fake.\"\" However, I wondered whether it was worth a punt as it is only £10, and then if I would be able to verify its veracity once it was in my hands.\n\",Anonymous,\"All you have to do is submerge your sample of glass into mineral oil. If it seems to disappear, it's borosilicate.\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3103,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,3.267423727073639,4.753039350684102,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Do aluminium PCB heatbeds reduce hotspots?,\"TL;DR\n\n\nDo aluminium PCB heatbeds suffer from hotspots as much as standard PCB heatbeds, or is the presence of hot spots smoothed over by the fact that the PCB \"\"substrate\"\" is aluminium, and so its thermal conductivity helps spread the heat more evenly? \nOr, conversely, could the effect of the hotspots be magnified, and actually made worse?\nWhich has fewer hotspots, MK2A, MK2B, or MK3? (I'm not sure if this should be a separate question)\n\n\nI would have also asked whether aluminium PCB heatbeds are worth the additional cost, over standard PCB heatbeds, but for the slightly less common dimensions of 200 mm x 300 mm, the costs, of an aluminium PCB heat bed, are roughly the same as standard PCB.\n\nSome thermal imaging pictures, comparing standard PCBs with aluminium PCBs, would be appreciated.\n\n\n\nI am keen to buy an aluminium PCB heatbed for my P3Steel v.4 printer, which has a larger build area of 200 mm x 300 mm. So, after some searching, I found this MK2A: MK2A 300x200mm Aluminum Heated Bed Hot Bed for RepRap 3D Printer 12V + Wiring + NTC 3950 Thermistor - Upgrade you Prusa i3 for LARGE Printsize, or this cheaper MK3, Anycubic Dual Power MK3 Heatbed 300*200*3mm Aluminum Heat Bed 12V/24V Perfect for Prusa i3 3D Printer. \n\nNote: this is not a shopping question, I am merely providing a background to my questions.\n\n\n\nWhile the RepRap wiki is full of information, the information can be rather piecemeal and incomplete. Cases in point being the two pages on heatbeds:\n\n\nHeated Bed, and;\nPCB_Heatbed. \n\n\nAs stated in the former link, on the section on Metal print beds, PCB based heatbeds can suffer from hotspots, and that is why, apparently, it is sometimes preferrable to use a subsequent aluminium build/print bed on top of that, en lieu of glass plate, in order to even out the hotspots, as the aluminium's greater thermal conductivity helps smooth out the hotspots, by distributing the heat more efficiently than a glass plate can. However, it doesn't describe the heating effect of just a single aluminium PCB heatbed.\n\nThe section, in the latter link, on Aluminium heatbeds, where the heating circuit is printed directly onto the aluminium, rather than a standard PCB (on a non-conductive substrate), makes mention that the print can be made directly on to the aluminium, without the need of an additional glass plate, resulting in a lighter print plate, and hence faster print speed. However, yet again, it is not particularly clear, or explicit, when it comes to heat distribution.\n\",Davo,\"A thermal image of my aluminum heated bed does not show hotspots, although the edges are cooler than the majority of the center.\n\n \n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n3111,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,3.452496054252184,5.42454440103813,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How much insulation do I really need?,\"I have been looking at cork sheet insulation for my 200 mm x 300 mm aluminium PCB heatbed, by I am not entirely sure how thick it should be. There seems to be a trade off between losing a few millimeters of print height, and providing adequate installation.\n\nI have seen 10 mm thick table mats, and then 5/3/2 mm thick cork insulation tiles. On some forums people say they use two 2 mm sheets beneath the aluminium heater and then another 1.5 mm aluminium plate under those, to hold it altogether (source: Re: Is a cork board necessary under the heated bed?).\n\nHopefully this does not come across as a how-long-is-a-piece-of-string type question. I am just trying to get the right amount in the first place whilst spending as little as possible, and keeping the mass/volume and height down. If someone else has already gone through the empirical adjustments themselves, then it might save me the time and expense of having to test various configurations. \n\n\nWould just 2 mm thick cork backing be sufficient?\nIs 10 mm overkill?\nDoes silver foil backing help considerably, thereby enabling one to reduce the thickness of the cork?\n\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"Since 50% of the bed is uninsulated, you're definately into diminishing returns as soon as you start adding any insulation.\nWith that area, I think you are looking at 1.2W per kelvin for a 2mm thickness. \n\nI'm guessing a bit with these powers, but roughly, maybe from 100 W un-insulated, 75 with 2mm, 60W with 4mm. You can get a reasonably accurate measure of the power by looking at the duty cycle of the heating element.\n\nActually, its not clear if your primary goal is to reduce energy/maintain a very high temperature, or speed the initial heating. You can place a temporary sheet of cork on top of the bed (preferably extending over the edges to prevent convection) and this will significantly improve heat-up times.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3122,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,1.726248027126092,5.242412828314049,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Has anyone experienced scorching or burning of cork heatbed insulation?,\"A comment to my question How much insulation do I really need? has made me paranoid about using cork as a heatbed insulator:\n\n\n Why worry -- other than the fact that it's flammable. All that's needed to start a fire is having the thermistor fail or come loose. I'd use a flameproof material if you're going to insulate. \n\n\nThe flash point (ignition temperature) of cork is, apparently, 300 - 320°C1, which is not, as far as I can tell, a temperature that the heatbed reaches, so, in theory, cork should be safe to use as an insulator. In fact temperatures of around 300C are used in the manufacturing process of some cork products2:\n\n\n For insulation applications, agglomerates of granules of\n cork, known as black agglomerates, are employed. They\n are manufactured in a closed autoclave at high\n temperature (approximately 300uC) and pressure\n (around 40 kPa) without the use of adhesive\n\n\nIn addtion, according to Why should we use cork?\n\n\n Does cork burn?\n \n Cork is a slow combustion material. That is to say, yes it burns but very slowly and it doesn't produce flame so it doesn't spread. Also, when burning, the smoke that it releases is not toxic.\n\n\nHowever, I am not sure if all cork is equal, or whether the thickness of the cork can affect the safety. To give a definite figure, I was thinking of using 2 mm - 5 mm thick cork sheeting.\n\nHas anyone experienced, or know of, any burning (or scorching) of cork, when used as a backing insulator to a heatbed, in particular, an aluminium PCB MK3 heatbed?\n\n\n\n1 Source: What is the the ignition temperature of cork? | ChaCha\n\n2 Source: Cork: properties, capabilities and applications\n\",StarWind0,\"The real fire risks with 3d printers are electrical in nature. Lets say your wires come undone and happen to come next to the other lead. If it archs and happened to be in just the right position. Pretty unlikely. Once I did a bad solder job and when I was working on my printer. The wires literally burst into flame in my lap. No damage done (other than needing a new board). That said we often see people who have their boards catch fire in the flashforge owner groups. Weak solder joints, and over all bad quality.\n\nDo you really have something to worry about with Cork? No. A series of unfortunate events would have to happen, and more likely your board will cause a fire. That said I would look into adding a layer of aluminum and reflect some of that heat back up. \n\nIf you are that worried I would just remove the sheet. Unless you are having issues calibrating you heated build plate / PIDs there is no reason to use insulation. I only use it on printers that have a hard time hitting ABS temps of 100c. Even then I only use tin foil and try to trap the air underneath. \n\nJust a side note. If you are having heated build plate issues maybe what you really need is a heat chamber.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n3312,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,1.0891412423578797,4.430587615475708,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Orientation of long thin rod on P3Steel v4,\"I have a derivative of the P3Steel v4, which is not the Irobri design but another version (I'm not entirely sure which), from Poland: Frame Prusa I3 P3Steel v4.0 +RODS.\n\nI have assembled the frame, following this guide, manual_p3steel_xl, only to be left with one part, which is the long thin rod, which has a small hole, only in one end (the hole is marked by the big arrow in the image below):\n\n\n\nThis part obviously goes into the slots at the bottom of the Z axis arms, as shown by the curved arrows.\n\nHowever:\n\n\nWhich way around does the part go? \nShould the small hole be on the left or the right hand side, when looking at the printer from the front?\nAlso, what exactly is the hole for? Is it just for a zip tie, and to be used to keep the cables (maybe from the heated bed (power and thermistor)) tidy?\n\n\nI have looked at a number of other photos and videos for the P3Steel frame, and none of them clarify which way around, or how, the rod should be fitted. The bar is either omitted completely, or the image is not clear enough to show the correct orientation.\n\nThe guide does not show this part being used, although it clearly shows the slots for it in the Z axis arms, in a number of the pictures, such as here:\n\n\n\",Greenonline,\"This is half of an answer. I have finally received an answer from my supplier, which says:\n\n\n Long thin rod is mounted as in the photo. I do not know what is a\n small hole.\n\n\nSo the small hole is still a mystery. \n\nHere is the photo that was included with the message (which confirms my placement, just not the orientation):\n\n\n\n\n\nUpdate\n\nAs tjb1 points out in his comment, the hole can be clearly seen on the right hand side of the bar, in the eBay photo:\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n3332,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,1.0891412423578797,4.272039549345993,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Is the 8mm x 20mm bearing axle for the X-axis idler (of a P3Steel) a custom part?,\"Here is the X-axis of the P3Steel:\n\n\n\nThe X-axis idler end of a P3Steel printer, employs an 8 mm diameter rod for the axle on which a 608zz bearing is mounted for the GT2 belt. This 8 mm rod is approximately 20 - 24 mm in length, with grooves at either end, for circlips.\n\nA photo of the assembled idler, with the rod and circlips highlighted:\n\n\n\nMy question is: Does this part need to be custom made? \n\nThe short rod didn't come with the frame kit that I purchased (nor was it listed in the parts list, or shown in the photo of the parts - so it not as if it was omitted with my order). I have searched on eBay for it, using various search terms, and I am unable to find one. As I was not trained in mechanical engineering, I am not sure if this part has a special name, or is it just called a \"\"smooth rod, with grooved ends\"\"? I have also done a fair amount of googling, and although I have found some people who have constructed this particular frame, no one makes mention of this axle, nor any difficulties in sourcing it.\n\nI have contacted the supplier of the frame, Frame Prusa I3 P3Steel v4.0 +RODS, and I am awaiting a reply.\n\nThis missing part is holding up my build progress - I already have the 608zz bearing and circlips.\n\n\n\nAdditional images\n\nThis image shows the \"\"exploded view\"\" and the 8mm rod can be clearly seen:\n\n\n\nHere are images of the assembled idler, showing the bearing inside -\n\nFront view:\n\n\n\nSide view:\n\n\n\nThis images are a little blurry, as they are screen shots taken from the video, I3 Steel CORDOBESA con extrusor/with extruder.\n\",StarWind0,\"Oh fascinating. It took me a while to figure out what exactly that is. It is a smooth rod used as the idler for the X belt. \n\nWhat I would do is get a bearing / wheel. Take a thicker screw, nut and washer. Put the idler / bearing / wheel into the slot, then fit the screw / nut. Should work without any issue!\n\nThat said they likely had some sort of special fitting etc. Doesn't matter so long as the belt can move without wearing. \n\nThis Thingiverse does exactly what I am thinking.\n\n\n\nAs you have a low profile need due to the interesting design I came across this. a TNF8 - Nut Sert - Flanged/Ribbed.\n\n\nOr you may just need a standard low profile nut. Not like you need it to do more than hold it in..\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3332,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,1.0891412423578797,4.272039549345993,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Is the 8mm x 20mm bearing axle for the X-axis idler (of a P3Steel) a custom part?,\"Here is the X-axis of the P3Steel:\n\n\n\nThe X-axis idler end of a P3Steel printer, employs an 8 mm diameter rod for the axle on which a 608zz bearing is mounted for the GT2 belt. This 8 mm rod is approximately 20 - 24 mm in length, with grooves at either end, for circlips.\n\nA photo of the assembled idler, with the rod and circlips highlighted:\n\n\n\nMy question is: Does this part need to be custom made? \n\nThe short rod didn't come with the frame kit that I purchased (nor was it listed in the parts list, or shown in the photo of the parts - so it not as if it was omitted with my order). I have searched on eBay for it, using various search terms, and I am unable to find one. As I was not trained in mechanical engineering, I am not sure if this part has a special name, or is it just called a \"\"smooth rod, with grooved ends\"\"? I have also done a fair amount of googling, and although I have found some people who have constructed this particular frame, no one makes mention of this axle, nor any difficulties in sourcing it.\n\nI have contacted the supplier of the frame, Frame Prusa I3 P3Steel v4.0 +RODS, and I am awaiting a reply.\n\nThis missing part is holding up my build progress - I already have the 608zz bearing and circlips.\n\n\n\nAdditional images\n\nThis image shows the \"\"exploded view\"\" and the 8mm rod can be clearly seen:\n\n\n\nHere are images of the assembled idler, showing the bearing inside -\n\nFront view:\n\n\n\nSide view:\n\n\n\nThis images are a little blurry, as they are screen shots taken from the video, I3 Steel CORDOBESA con extrusor/with extruder.\n\",KalleMP,\"You could look up a Clevis pin with one groove.\nYou could look up a Clevis pin with a hole for a split pin.\nPerhaps a Shoulder screw with a ground shank and a low profile head.\nUse a plain rod with Dome caps if you will not need to remove often.\nIf available an internal threaded Standoff would work.\nA Slotted spring pin may work if the hole dimensions are suitable. \n\nEDIT:\nYou could also cut the grooves yourself pretty easily. Cut a section of 8mm rod to length and mount it into a drill chuck so it stick out 2-3mm 1/8\"\". Hold a hacksaw at the edge of the chuck and run the drill for a minute with gentle pressure, try hacksaw on other side or reverse direction if nothing is happening.\nA hardened rod will cut better with a Dremel type cut-off disk\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3410,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,2.1782824847157594,4.512133866843058,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Has anyone used a Shield Buddy (en lieu of a Arduino Mega2560) as the RAMPS 1.4 host board?,\"I have read a few times1 that the Arduino Mega can struggle to perform the tasks required for 3D printer control, as the AVR chip is working at its limits, and this is why some manufacturers have moved away from the ATmega2560, to make custom (and integrated) controller boards using ARM processors.\n\nHaving just seen the latest answer to this question, Multithreading with the Arduino, on the Arduino SE site, I wondered if anyone had used a Shield Buddy in conjunction with the standard RAMPS 1.4 board?\n\n\n\nIt is pin for pin compatible with the Arduino Mega (and Arduino IDE compatible - once the appropriate add-ons have been installed), but it has a much faster three core processor. Obviously only one core would be used, leaving the other two idling, but even so the performance is apparently much better.\n\nSee Bringing Multicore To The Arduino World With ShieldBuddy TC275.\n\nIf anyone has experience of using this board, I would like to know whether it was successful or not? I don't see why it should not, although the Marlin firmware would need recompiling, for the Aurix TC275 processor. Would any improvement be seen? Is it worth paying the high price tag of £89?\n\n\n\n1 One of the places was 3D Printering: Electronics boards:\n\n\n While they work for what they’re intended to do, there are a few\n limitations. Arcs and circles are a little weird to program, and using\n these boards for something other than a cartesian 3D printer – a CNC\n machine, or a laser cutter, for example – is a bit out of the\n ordinary.\n\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"It's not quite as simple as you would suggest.\n\nYou can't just recompile Marlin for another device. You'd need to rewrite large parts of it. It may be compatible with the Arduino IDE, but that doesn't mean you can just run firmware intended for the AtMega2560 on it. All the timings (e.g. those of the pulses sent to the stepper motors) would be off, if you managed to get it to compile at all.\n\nAs some examples, here are some pieces of code from Marlin that would be broken, as they're written directly in AVR assembly:\n\n#define DELAY_1_NOP __asm__(\"\"nop\\n\\t\"\")\n#define DELAY_2_NOP __asm__(\"\"nop\\n\\t\"\" \"\"nop\\n\\t\"\")\n\n[...]\n\n// ensure 100ns delay - a bit extra is fine\nasm(\"\"nop\"\");//50ns on 20Mhz, 62.5ns on 16Mhz\nasm(\"\"nop\"\");//50ns on 20Mhz, 62.5ns on 16Mhz\n\n[...]\n\n#define MultiU24X32toH16(intRes, longIn1, longIn2) \\\nasm volatile ( \\\n \"\"clr r26 \\n\\t\"\" \\\n \"\"mul %A1, %B2 \\n\\t\"\" \\\n \"\"mov r27, r1 \\n\\t\"\" \\\n \"\"mul %B1, %C2 \\n\\t\"\" \\\n \"\"movw %A0, r0 \\n\\t\"\" \\\n \"\"mul %C1, %C2 \\n\\t\"\" \\\n \"\"add %B0, r0 \\n\\t\"\" \\\n \"\"mul %C1, %B2 \\n\\t\"\" \\\n \"\"add %A0, r0 \\n\\t\"\" \\\n \"\"adc %B0, r1 \\n\\t\"\" \\\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3527,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,1.726248027126092,5.045314536215836,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Advantages of GT2 over a rack,\"Many 3D printers employ a GT2 band for the y-axis plate and the printhead in the x-axis carriage. \n\nHowever, there seems to be the obvious disadvantages of:\n\n\nstretching (and need for adjustment) and;\npossibly slight inaccuracy, or \"\"wobble\"\" (for want of a better word (as wobble is often used in describing z-axis deviations)), due to the elasticity of the band.\n\n\nIs there any particular reason why GT2 is used over a straight forward rack and pinion system?\n\n\n\nIn particular, for the y-axis plate, as a rack would appear to me, be:\n\n\neasy to install;\nmore accurate, and;\nrequire a lot less adjustment1.\n\n\nIf the rack is made from aluminium, surely weight can not be a major factor... or can it? \n\nIs cost a factor? A pinion seems to cost around \\$10-\\$15 (650 B\\$, here in BKK, Thailand), which is obviously more than a reel of GT2 and a couple of GT2 pulleys.\n\nWould the rigidity of the rack be less forgiving of an imperfectly aligned axis, something which the GT2 band and pulleys combination would not be so affected by? \n\n\n\nTL;DR\n\nWhich of these factors cause designers to use GT2 en lieu of a rack?\n\n\nAccuracy\nWeight\nCost\nMaintenance\nTolerence of non-square axes, manufacturing errors.\n\n\n\n\n1 Maybe constant adjustment is not required on an everyday basis, but the tension would still need to be checked now and again, whereas a pinion would not have this requirement.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"With a belt system, the belt engages roughly half the pulley. This, and the tension in the belt, ensures the belt always engages the pulley tightly. A belt and pulley system is thus relatively forgiving.\n\nWith a rack and pinion system, only a few teeth engage at any given time. To avoid backlash and get the same kind of \"\"tight\"\" engagement, both the gear and the rack need to be made with very high precision. The carriage also needs to be very well constrained, because any wobble of the rack relative to the gear introduces backlash (or binding). Moreover, you also need to keep the rack and pinion well lubricated lest they wear out prematurely.\n\nGiven that belt and pulley work well enough, I don't see why you'd need to move to rack and pinion. The main advantage of rack and pinion is that the rack isn't elastic. The maximum length of a belt system is limited by its elasticity, but given we aren't building meter-long 3D printers anyway, that advantage of rack and pinion does not apply.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n3965,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,2.1782824847157594,4.039631710247696,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,\"For a larger build volume, what lengths of 2020 aluminium do I need?\",\"TL;DR\n\nHow do I upscale a Wilson II? What lengths of aluminium1 do I need in order to achieve a particular (increased/reduced) build volume?\n\n\n\nThe design of the Wilson II is scalable (source: RepRapWiki - Category:Wilson):\n\n\n ...the design has a parametric build area, meaning it is relatively easy to scale the X, Y, and Z axis within reason.\n\n\nWhat does parametric mean exactly, in this scenario? How does one scale up from 200x300x2001? Also, how would that affect the Repetier/Marlin firmware?\n\nIs it simply a matter of maintaining the ratios of the lengths of the X, Y and Z axes constant, or can the ratios be ignored? Is there a formula, or set of formulae, for this?\n\nHas anyone gone beyond the 200x300x200 build volume? I have seen the Scalar M and XL series printers (with the XL having a print volume of 400x300x300) which, while they are not based on the Wilson, also boast of scalability:\n\n\n Scalar Family 3D printers are \"\"scalable\"\" printers.\n Reviewing the idea of a reprap printer, a printer that can auto replicate and scale, we wanted to propose a 3D printer with plastic parts for you to print, and with a way to \"\"scale\"\" easily.\n\n\nCan one (within reason) arbitrarily section various (supersized) length for the three axes and then modify the firmware accordingly, or is there a set of rules which govern the relationship between the lengths of the three axes?\n\n\n\nA simplistic view\n\nAs an example, the lengths (in mm) of the 2020 aluminium corresponding to the build volume of 200x300x200 are 330, 500, 400 for the X, Y, and Z axes, respectively. \n\nObviously, there are some constants to consider for the stepper housings, and idlers, for example. So, assuming that for X, Y and Z axes respectively, the constants are:\n\n\n330 - 200 = 130 mm\n500 - 300 = 200 mm\n400 - 200 = 200 mm\n\n\nIf I wanted a build volume of, let's say, 400x500x300 (XYZ), would the new XYZ lengths of 2020 aluminium simply become (by adding the respective constants):\n\n\n400 + 130 = 530 mm\n500 + 200 = 700 mm\n300 + 200 = 500 mm\n\n\nor is there more to it than that?\n\n\n\n1 I appreciate that 3030, en lieu of 2020, extruded aluminium may be required to maintain rigidity for larger print volumes\n\",Mikhail Z,\"Long story short: ratios can be ignored. You only need to let your firmware know actual size, if it needs so. However, using golden ratio seems quite reasonable.\n\nWhen talking about rigidity, keeping it will become a real issue at some point and may not be always effectively resolved by merely changing 2020 to 3030. Using 4020 or double 2020 could be better solution to compensate the most common forces during printing.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n3968,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,3.0576060275493275,6.237529406840633,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,3.206343760378365,ABS or PLA for structural printed parts?,\"TL;DR\n\nIs ABS a better material to use for structural parts of a 3D printer, as opposed to PLA?\n\n\n\nI have been looking at various suppliers of printed parts for a Wilson II, on eBay.\n\nOne supplier supplies all of the parts printed in ABS, whereas another supplier provides the structural parts, which form part of the frame, in PLA, and the remaining (non-structural) parts in ABS. The second supplier states the following:\n\n\n This kit is printed in two materials, the structural parts are printed on high-quality PLA to provide the necessary rigidity, and the others in premium ABS.\n\n\nMJRice, who developed the printer, also supplies the printed parts, which are made of PLA.\n\nIs PLA really a better choice for structural components? A quick google lead me to ABS or PLA: Which 3D printing filament should you use?\n\n\n ABS is going to give your projects better structural integrity and will be more suited to mechanical use given the material can better withstand the elements, but it will also require specific types of printers and printing surfaces. On the flip side, PLA will give you more precise prints and better aesthetic quality, as well as more flexibility with printing conditions if you can do without the strength and resilience of ABS.\n\n\nAnother link, What's stronger? PLA or ABS?, also implies that ABS is stronger than PLA:\n\n\n The strongest ABS is stronger than the strongest PLA\n\n\nand\n\n\n ABS is much less brittle than PLA\n\n\nalthough warpage could be an issue... \n\n\n I choose ABS for it's strength over PLA. I would love to avoid the warpage/shrinkage problems of ABS. \n\n\nHeat seems to affect PLA more than ABS (obviously, due to the lower melting point), \n\n\n FWIW, I know a guy who had a reprap using PLA-printed parts. He was taking his machine around to do demos and he left it in the car mid-day once. It melted the parts enough that prints were coming out very poorly even after his best effort at recalibrating the machine.\n\n\nand as I am in Thailand, my room gets up to 50°C some days (it is unbearable), I wonder if that would be cause for concern?\n\nSo, from the above nuggets of information, wouldn't ABS be a better choice? I am surely missing something, as both the second supplier, and MJRice, use PLA.\n\",Diesel,\"To answer the main question \"\"Is ABS better for structural parts of a 3D printer as opposed to PLA\"\".\n\nThe answer, unfortunately is it depends.\n\nABS has lower yield and ultimate strengths compared to PLA. This means that at room temperatures, ABS is weaker than PLA. However the difference between yield and ultimate for ABS is much larger than PLA, meaning that ABS parts will deform, noticeably so before breaking. This can be a good thing. If your ABS part is highly loaded, you may want to be able to inspect it for overloading. The plastic deformation that occurs in ABS may be sufficient for you to identify, and modify your parts before a catastrophic failure. With PLA though since the two strengths are quite close, your part would more than likely fail completely without any warning or deformation before it. So in terms of strength, it's a design consideration. Would you rather have a slightly weaker part that shows signs of load failure, or is a catastrophic failure acceptable. There are use cases where either may be better.\n\nAs Ecnerwal pointed out, PLA has a lower Tg (glass transition temperature) compared to ABS. If your printed parts are going on a 3D printer and aren't sufficiently isolated from the hot parts (print bed or extruder) then you may end up having some localized deformation. That being said, the extruder is generally pretty localized and likely won't cause you too many issues assuming you're using any of the already available 3D printer designs out there, same for the print bed. However by the sounds of it your 'room' temperature is a fair bit higher than here in North America, by a factor of almost 2! This could cause you some issues if you're printing parts in the high heat with PLA. Your best option would be ABS, but even with it's higher Tg (roughly 90C if I remember correctly) you may still run into issues. \n\nThe warping and shrinkage issues mentioned in the question seem to be more about parts being built by a 3D printer. Once the parts are built warpage and shrinkage are essentially a non-issue unless you've heated parts back to within their melting temperatures.\n\nDepending on where you're getting your plastic parts, there may be a third option. By the sounds of it you're looking at building your own printer. You may be able to get the STL files of the printed parts you need and then have someone print them for you in a stronger material such as Nylon. \n\nAssuming alternative materials aren't an option I would personally suggest going with ABS for your use case. My reasoning is purely due to the potential operating temperatures. While 50C is below the Tg for PLA it's getting very close.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n3968,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,3.0576060275493275,6.237529406840633,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,3.206343760378365,ABS or PLA for structural printed parts?,\"TL;DR\n\nIs ABS a better material to use for structural parts of a 3D printer, as opposed to PLA?\n\n\n\nI have been looking at various suppliers of printed parts for a Wilson II, on eBay.\n\nOne supplier supplies all of the parts printed in ABS, whereas another supplier provides the structural parts, which form part of the frame, in PLA, and the remaining (non-structural) parts in ABS. The second supplier states the following:\n\n\n This kit is printed in two materials, the structural parts are printed on high-quality PLA to provide the necessary rigidity, and the others in premium ABS.\n\n\nMJRice, who developed the printer, also supplies the printed parts, which are made of PLA.\n\nIs PLA really a better choice for structural components? A quick google lead me to ABS or PLA: Which 3D printing filament should you use?\n\n\n ABS is going to give your projects better structural integrity and will be more suited to mechanical use given the material can better withstand the elements, but it will also require specific types of printers and printing surfaces. On the flip side, PLA will give you more precise prints and better aesthetic quality, as well as more flexibility with printing conditions if you can do without the strength and resilience of ABS.\n\n\nAnother link, What's stronger? PLA or ABS?, also implies that ABS is stronger than PLA:\n\n\n The strongest ABS is stronger than the strongest PLA\n\n\nand\n\n\n ABS is much less brittle than PLA\n\n\nalthough warpage could be an issue... \n\n\n I choose ABS for it's strength over PLA. I would love to avoid the warpage/shrinkage problems of ABS. \n\n\nHeat seems to affect PLA more than ABS (obviously, due to the lower melting point), \n\n\n FWIW, I know a guy who had a reprap using PLA-printed parts. He was taking his machine around to do demos and he left it in the car mid-day once. It melted the parts enough that prints were coming out very poorly even after his best effort at recalibrating the machine.\n\n\nand as I am in Thailand, my room gets up to 50°C some days (it is unbearable), I wonder if that would be cause for concern?\n\nSo, from the above nuggets of information, wouldn't ABS be a better choice? I am surely missing something, as both the second supplier, and MJRice, use PLA.\n\",Brad,\"To answer your question, ABS is better than PLA for parts however I wouldn't use ABS for that, I would use PETG for structural parts.\n\nPETG is more durable than ABS or PLA. PETG is more flexible than PLA and it not brittle like ABS. What makes PETG so good is the G! G stands for Glycol, this is added to prevent the material from crystallizing when over heated. While some companies say it is \"\"Food Grade\"\" you really need to be careful as note every factory produce it the same.\n\nWhen I started printing I only used ABS, I thought it was better because it was stronger than PLA, so I just put up with the smell of ABS.\n\nIt wasn't until I bought my second printer that I found out about PETG. They guy that makes my printer used to work in the plastics industry, so he gave me some info on the filaments on the market. \n\nNow I use PLA and PETG. PLA for testing and playing with different models and PETG for anything I want to last or will be used in hot environments (like in the car). \n\nPrinting with PETG is very easy, a lot easier than ABS. It sticks to the bed very well (I still use Glue stick though) and no smell. Temp depends on your printer. I use an ExtraBot, I run the Extruder at 220°C and the glass bed at 80°C\n\nThere are a lot of write ups on PETG, many different settings/temps they recommend. Honestly, watch while you print. Start off at 220°C and if you see bubbles, drop the temp in increments, if you see it not sticking to the bed or the nozzle is clogging up, increase the temp. \n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n4012,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,1.0891412423578797,4.864164806065475,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How long are the carbon fibre rods for a Travelling Kossel?,\"TL;DR - For a given Kossel frame size (w.r.t. the vertical and horizontal frame lengths of the aluminium extrusion), what would the length of the carbon fibre rods be?\n\n\n\nA case in point, from RepRapWiki - Kossel, there is an intriguing note about a scaled down Kossel:\n\n\n Optionally scale down to a Traveling RepRap that fits within IATA hand\n luggage size limit (see transportation):\n \n \n Frame height: 550 mm.\n Footprint: triangle, 270 mm width, 250 mm across (210 mm 15 x 15 mm aluminium extrusion like OpenBeam + printed corners).\n \n\n\nHowever, there is no mention of the length of the carbon fibre rods (carbon tubes).\n\nNow, as per my previous question, For a larger build volume, what lengths of 2020 aluminium do I need?, is there a formula or ratio by which one needs to abide? Whereas in my previous question, the answer was along the lines of: Not really, you can use any lengths, within reason, and account for it later in the firmware, I would imagine that the Delta aspect of the printer is somewhat more exacting.\n\nI have tried googling for further information on this Travelling Kossel, but found nothing, except for the information of RepRapWiki.\n\nLooking at the corresponding lengths (vertical/horizontal) of the aluminium versus those of the carbon fibre rods for the Mini and XL:\n\n\n600/240 mm versus 180 mm\n750/360 mm versus 300 mm\n\n\nI really can not see what the (trigonometric) relationship is, and therefore can not deduce the lengths of the carbon rods for the Travelling Kossel. \n\nUnless it is simply that the carbon rods are 60 mm shorter than the aluminium horizontals? Is it really as simple as that, or is this just a coincidence? In which case, would the carbon rods be (210 - 60 =) 150 mm?\n\nBy extension, imagine if you wanted to build a Kossel XXXL, with a horizontal aluminium extrusion length of, let's say, 1000 mm, would the length of the carbon rods be 940 mm?\n\nAny ideas?\n\",tjb1,\"Most information I was able to find was the arms are 80% the length of the horizontal structure. I did find a copy of the original Google Sheets that everyone used a few years ago here. The source of that link did mention that there may have been some issues with it but all of those links were dead ends. \n\nSome things to note:\n\nThe height doesn't matter, it has no relationship with the arms other than you are losing approximately the arm length from the height when figuring print area as some arms will approach vertical when reaching the outsides of your print area.\n\nThe arm length isn't terribly important from what I could find. Longer arms = less travel of the carriages and possibly lower resolution. Shorter arms = more travel of the carriages and possibly lower print speed due to required movement.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4012,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,1.0891412423578797,4.864164806065475,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How long are the carbon fibre rods for a Travelling Kossel?,\"TL;DR - For a given Kossel frame size (w.r.t. the vertical and horizontal frame lengths of the aluminium extrusion), what would the length of the carbon fibre rods be?\n\n\n\nA case in point, from RepRapWiki - Kossel, there is an intriguing note about a scaled down Kossel:\n\n\n Optionally scale down to a Traveling RepRap that fits within IATA hand\n luggage size limit (see transportation):\n \n \n Frame height: 550 mm.\n Footprint: triangle, 270 mm width, 250 mm across (210 mm 15 x 15 mm aluminium extrusion like OpenBeam + printed corners).\n \n\n\nHowever, there is no mention of the length of the carbon fibre rods (carbon tubes).\n\nNow, as per my previous question, For a larger build volume, what lengths of 2020 aluminium do I need?, is there a formula or ratio by which one needs to abide? Whereas in my previous question, the answer was along the lines of: Not really, you can use any lengths, within reason, and account for it later in the firmware, I would imagine that the Delta aspect of the printer is somewhat more exacting.\n\nI have tried googling for further information on this Travelling Kossel, but found nothing, except for the information of RepRapWiki.\n\nLooking at the corresponding lengths (vertical/horizontal) of the aluminium versus those of the carbon fibre rods for the Mini and XL:\n\n\n600/240 mm versus 180 mm\n750/360 mm versus 300 mm\n\n\nI really can not see what the (trigonometric) relationship is, and therefore can not deduce the lengths of the carbon rods for the Travelling Kossel. \n\nUnless it is simply that the carbon rods are 60 mm shorter than the aluminium horizontals? Is it really as simple as that, or is this just a coincidence? In which case, would the carbon rods be (210 - 60 =) 150 mm?\n\nBy extension, imagine if you wanted to build a Kossel XXXL, with a horizontal aluminium extrusion length of, let's say, 1000 mm, would the length of the carbon rods be 940 mm?\n\nAny ideas?\n\",Greenonline,\"To compliment tjb1's answer, The link seems to go to a spreadsheet that doesn't have any formulae in it. However, I managed to find a copy, from Google groups: How to calculate Delta Dimensions for new build.\n\nHowever, another source of the Document is Kossel frame calculator (delt...@googlegroups.com). Right at the top is a posting of Johan's (who is the designer of the Kossel) spreadsheet, which is essentially the same as before, but it is contained within an interesting message thread. \n\nThere are a few more calculators, that a quick google search will throw up, which I have listed in a short blog, Kossel - The Ratio:\n\n\nDelta Frame Calculator | OpenBuilds\nKosselPrinter/Kossel frame calculator.xlsx at master · aleung … – GitHub\nKossel frame calculator – Google Groups\nCalculations | Pearltrees\n\n\nI have an enhanced version that allows additional parameters to be modified, see Github: Greenonline/Kossel/Spreadsheets.\n\n\n\nDesign Process by David Crocker\n\nApparently, the ratio is not particularly vital. I found a design process in the comments section of More upgrades to the large Delta 3D printer:\n\n\n The design process goes something like this:\n \n \n Estimate the size of effector you will need.\n Given that effector size, work out how close to the towers the nozzle will be able to get. From that and the desired printing radius,\n work out what radius the towers are on.\n That fixes the lengths of the horizontal extrusions. Choose the diagonal rod length so that when at the edge of the bed opposite a\n tower, the rods to that tower are at 20 degrees or a little more to\n the horizontal.\n Given that diagonal rod length, choose the rod separation. I suggest about 1/6 of the rod length (this is larger than on my delta).\n If that rod separation means you need a larger effector, repeat from step 1.\n Choose the tower height to give the required print height at the edges of the bed, when one pair of rods may be more or less vertical.\n \n\n\nWhen I queried David about his use of the 0.8 ratio, again in the comments section, on Building a large delta 3D printer, this was his reply:\n\n\n The notion that there is a single ratio of diagonal rod to horizontal\n extrusion length that is right for all delta printers is misguided. It\n depends on the geometry of the corners that join the horizontals to\n the towers, the size of the effector, and the carriage design. What\n matters is that the rods are at no less than 20 degrees (preferably 25\n or more) to the horizontal when the nozzle is at the edge of the bed\n opposite a tower.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4031,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,3.0576060275493275,6.294120592361065,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.9505769891325135,\"Would using a leadscrew with 1 or 2 mm lead, en lieu of 8 mm, result in a better printer?\",\"By \"\"better\"\" I mean \"\"more precise\"\"...\n\nWith respect to a RepRap P3Steel or Wilson II, I am getting some 330 mm T8 leadscrews for the Z-axis movement. \n\nThere seems to be a choice between a lead of 1, 2 or 8 mm - the pitch is 1 mm in the first case and 2 mm in the last two cases1. However, there is precious little information about the advantages and disadvantages of each lead size in RepRapWiki - Threaded Rod - Leadscrew.\n\nIt seems to me that using a leadscrew with a 1 or 2 mm lead could result in a more precise Z-axis movement, as one rotation of the stepper results in a smaller increment in height. Therefore the layer thicknesses could be smaller. \n\nHowever, is the minimum layer thickness not, also, dictated by the thickness of the filament, horizontal speed of the print head, nozzle size, etc.? Thus, at some point there would be no need for a super fine vertical resolution from the leadscrew, as it may be constrained by other limiting factors.\n\nOf course, conversely, the use of a 2 mm lead would mean that the stepper would need to \"\"work\"\" four times as hard, than when using 8 mm, in order to raise the print head the same distance, as well as making the movement, during a \"\"home\"\", take four times as long (or, if you will, four times slower). In the case of a 1 mm lead that would become eight times...\n\n\n\nTL;DR\n\nIs it worth getting a leadscrew with a 2 mm lead, or is 8 mm sufficient?\n\nBy extension, would a 1 mm lead be even better, or just overkill?\n\n\n\nFootnote\n\n1 Nomenclature:\n\n\nPitch is the distance between the adjacent threads;\nLead is the distance that a nut will turn with one rotation, and;\nStart is how many starting (or thread entry) points at either end.\n\n\nSo, for a leadscrew, with a pitch of 2 mm, if there is only one start to the screw then the lead is the same as the pitch. However, if there are four starts to the screw, then the lead will be 8 mm. If there are two starts to the screw, then the lead will be 4 mm. And so on.\n\nFor more information, see Wikipedia - Lead, pitch and starts.\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"Based on what I've learned over 8 months of printing:\n\nWhat matters the most is getting a very accurate zero relative to the bed surface. An offset of 30 or 40 microns can strongly affect first-layer adhesion. Now, unless you put in some of the advanced auto-levelling sensors, the repeatability of the Z-axis limit switch may outweigh the precision of the lead screw itself. But if you've got a good limit sensor, then the more precision in the lead screw, the better you can set (and repeat) the position of the first layer. \n\nI don't see a significant difference in strain on the drive motors if they have to run longer per mm of z-drive - just make sure the lead screws are clean :-)\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n4031,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,3.0576060275493275,6.294120592361065,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.9505769891325135,\"Would using a leadscrew with 1 or 2 mm lead, en lieu of 8 mm, result in a better printer?\",\"By \"\"better\"\" I mean \"\"more precise\"\"...\n\nWith respect to a RepRap P3Steel or Wilson II, I am getting some 330 mm T8 leadscrews for the Z-axis movement. \n\nThere seems to be a choice between a lead of 1, 2 or 8 mm - the pitch is 1 mm in the first case and 2 mm in the last two cases1. However, there is precious little information about the advantages and disadvantages of each lead size in RepRapWiki - Threaded Rod - Leadscrew.\n\nIt seems to me that using a leadscrew with a 1 or 2 mm lead could result in a more precise Z-axis movement, as one rotation of the stepper results in a smaller increment in height. Therefore the layer thicknesses could be smaller. \n\nHowever, is the minimum layer thickness not, also, dictated by the thickness of the filament, horizontal speed of the print head, nozzle size, etc.? Thus, at some point there would be no need for a super fine vertical resolution from the leadscrew, as it may be constrained by other limiting factors.\n\nOf course, conversely, the use of a 2 mm lead would mean that the stepper would need to \"\"work\"\" four times as hard, than when using 8 mm, in order to raise the print head the same distance, as well as making the movement, during a \"\"home\"\", take four times as long (or, if you will, four times slower). In the case of a 1 mm lead that would become eight times...\n\n\n\nTL;DR\n\nIs it worth getting a leadscrew with a 2 mm lead, or is 8 mm sufficient?\n\nBy extension, would a 1 mm lead be even better, or just overkill?\n\n\n\nFootnote\n\n1 Nomenclature:\n\n\nPitch is the distance between the adjacent threads;\nLead is the distance that a nut will turn with one rotation, and;\nStart is how many starting (or thread entry) points at either end.\n\n\nSo, for a leadscrew, with a pitch of 2 mm, if there is only one start to the screw then the lead is the same as the pitch. However, if there are four starts to the screw, then the lead will be 8 mm. If there are two starts to the screw, then the lead will be 4 mm. And so on.\n\nFor more information, see Wikipedia - Lead, pitch and starts.\n\",Greenonline,\"From Accuracy vs Precision and Threaded Rod vs Leadscrews in 3D Printers. I have highlighted the relevant parts:\n\n\n In general, FFF/FDM printers use relatively infrequent, small, precise\n movements on the z-axis and consistent, fast movements on the x and y\n axes. A single start leadscrew with the tightest pitch possible\n (highest thread density, smallest pitch) is generally going to be your\n best bet for the z-axis, while you may or may not need something a\n little steeper to get the speeds you'd like from your x and y axes.\n While this may seem somewhat arbitrary given the precision of movement\n you can get from a stepper motor, an important factor to remember here\n is torque.\n \n A more aggressive leadscrew will require more torque to drive. We have\n one kit printer we bought a couple years ago that has an overly\n aggressive multi-start leadscrew for the z-axis. The small motors\n included in the kit do not have the torque required to reliably start\n upward movement of the carriage, leaving it sitting there skipping\n steps until the carriage is given a little upward nudge to get it\n going (no, it's not a lubrication issue or a driver that needs turning\n up).\n\n\nSo, a 2 mm lead is preferable to a 8 mm lead, as not only is less torque required, but also more precise movements are obtainable.\n\n\n\nWith respect to the layer heights, I found this nugget of information, from Ditch the threaded rod in your RepRap 3D printer and upgrade to a lead screw z-axis\n\n\n It's always better to use layer heights that are a multiple of your\n full step. If you trust in your micro-stepping you will get poor\n results because torque is very poor and the motor won't stop very\n precisely. Best approach is to use a lead screw (whose longer step\n allows the gravity to work for you and eliminate backlash) and a\n stepper driver configured to 1/4 micro-step for low noise, but not for\n micro-layering. I always use multiples of my full step and have\n printed 0.040 (1 step), 0.080 (2 steps), 0.120 (3 steps and so on), 0.200,\n 0.600 and 0.800 mm (of course using 2 different nozzles). Do you need\n more than that?\n\n\nSee also Reddit - Lead screw opinions\n\n\nthe general consensus is that a 2 mm lead is preferable to a 8 mm lead:\n\n\n\n \n Lower the lead the better for an Z-Axis screw to allow for more precision.\n No need for anti-backlash nuts for a Z-Axis if it has a decent amount of mass/weight to it.\n \n\n\n\n1 mm will slow the printer down, but provide 0.005 mm (5μm) vertical movement:\n\n\n\n That's going to be awfully slow when homing. While you really don't\n need speed for the z-axis, there's not much point in going with such a\n low pitch... you won't be printing anywhere near the layer heights\n that can achieve. In the end I guess it's not a big deal, but I don't\n see any reason to go below about a 4 mm pitch. A 1 mm pitch with a 1.8°\n stepper gives you 0.005 mm increments. Anything under 0.02 mm (which is\n sort of ridiculous anyways) is just unnecessary. Just my thoughts.\n\n\n\n(As Tom points out) An 8 mm lead can result in the weight of the X-axis gantry (especially in a P3Steel) overcoming the idle torque of the stepper. As a result of this, the X-axis gantry can end up sliding down the leadscrew, in particular at power down:\n\n\n\n I have lead screws on my Z and it readily falls down if you kill the power. Regular threaded rod is much better at keeping it in place without power.\n\n\nand\n\n\n That's one of the problems with 8mm lead ;) With 2mm lead it will hold itself. The stepper motor provides a fair amount of resistance even when powered down.\n\n\n\n\nTL;DR\n\nBe wary of leadscrews with a lead, as opposed to a pitch, of 8 mm, as there are disadvantages, when compared to a lesser lead of, say, 4 mm, or 2 mm (or 1 mm for leadscrew with a pitch of 1 mm):\n\n\nHigher torque may be required\nLess accuracy\nPossibility of slippage, of the X-axis, once power is removed, or stepper is disabled1\nAnti backlash nuts required\n\n\nHowever, their major (if you can call it that) advantage is a higher maximum movement speed.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n4084,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,2.528907649931287,5.454525478049026,2.7799718631987322,6.034324953675596,2.746326330407206,1.4598072896409044,Is it a good idea to include thermal fuses in a DIY 3D printer design?,\"3D printing should be relatively safe, however, the inherent nature of 3D printers, with all of the heated parts, constitutes a fire risk. A well designed 3D printer should be designed to be as safe as possible, especially one used in the home... Yes, the recommendation is, when printing, to watch the 3D printer at all times and never leave a print unattended. However, with some print times lasting hours and days, this is not always feasible, nor practical. So, some inbuilt safety features should be included, to at least mitigate the risk of fire, to some extent.\n\n\nIs the use of thermal fuses1,2 a good idea3? \nWould you use more than one?\nWhere should one place a thermal fuse? Next to a particular component, or free standing, in the air, to get an average, rather than highly localised temperature? \nAgainst which components should a thermal fuse be placed? There are a number of places to choose from, such as next to:\n\n\nThe hotend? \nThe heated bed? \nThe extruder? \nEach of the stepper motors? \nThe power supply? \nThe RAMPS stepper motor drivers?\n\nOf lesser import, which type should one use4, radial or axial?\n\n\n\n\nHas anyone added thermal fuses to their 3D printers? Or has anyone examined where the thermal fuses are placed in commercial 3D printer designs, if used at all?\n\n\n\nBackground\n\nI have recently found myself having to repair rice cookers and fans in Thailand. In those, it is very often the thermal fuse (axial thermal fuses for the rice cookers and the square \"\"radial\"\" types for fans) that requires replacing, as they have blown before the device got hot enough to start a fire. This got me thinking about their use in a 3D printer. \n\n\n\nFootnotes\n\n1 We are not talking about the standard, replaceable, thermo-fuse,or fuse, which blow upon a current surge, short-circuit, etc. These are thermal fuses that contain metal connector within them that melts (permanently) at a specific temperature (typically ~135°C), thereby breaking the circuit.\n\n2 Nor am I referring to resettable fuses (AKA PPTC, multifuse, polyfuse or polyswitch)\n\n3 Would a thermal fuse be preferable to thermal cut offs, in the case of fire?\n\n4 The thermal fuses used in rice cookers are the axial type, and in the motors of fans are the radial type.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Whether you should use a thermal fuse or not depends on what other safety measures you've taken. You can't look at the safety features of a printer in isolation, you need to look at what other measures are in place.\n\nThe main fire hazard in printers is unfortunately (still) the fact that some manufacturers use underrated connectors on their boards, and that some users put bare wires in screw terminals or use inadequate torque when tightening terminals. As the wire works itself loose, it starts arcing and burning the connector. A thermal fuse does not help in this situation (unless you place thermal fuses near all of the connectors, which is impractical). Instead:\n\n\nProperly tighten screw terminals, check them, and consider using proper wire termination (crimp lugs).\nUse strain relief on wires. Make sure wires don't rub against anything, and guide them so they do not bend in a tight radius. Since the extruder (or print bed) is constantly moving, those wires are subject to fatigue.\nMake sure connectors (especially those for the heated bed) are rated for the current running through them, and solder wires directly to the board if necessary.\n\n\nUsing a regular fuse may protect against wires shorting against each other should their insulation be damaged. Fuses are usually already integrated into the main board.\n\nMost firmwares include some variant of thermal runaway protection, a feature that monitors the heaters and shuts the printer down if it notices something gone wrong. This protects against:\n\n\nThe thermistor coming loose/reading incorrect values/etc...\n\n\nbut not against:\n\n\nBugs in the firmware itself\nFailure of the MOSFET\n\n\nMost printers use MOSFETs to switch power to the heating element. Unfortunately, when MOSFETs fail, they usually fail closed (i.e. conducting). This means that, even if the firmware detects something has gone wrong, it won't be able to do anything about it. Solid State Relays (TRIACs) can fail in the same way.\n\nTo protect against this, mounting a thermal fuse (or resettable bimetallic switch*) on the heated bed may be a good idea. However, thermal fuses with ratings up to the operating temperature of a hotend do not appear to be available so this is not an option.\n\nAttaching the fuse physically to the part it is monitoring is the most reliable, but for instance with the hotend (if you wanted to protect it all) this might not be feasible to the high temperatures involved so you'd have to settle with monitoring the air temperature close by.\n\nAlso consider thermal balancing. A thermal fuse is unnecessary if the component can not overheat to begin with. For instance, most MK2 heated beds struggle getting up to even 100C, so even with a shorted MOSFET they present no danger. However, if you have a powerful high wattage (mains-powered) heated bed, you should definitely install thermal protection.\n\nE3D supplies their hot ends with 25W, 30W and 40W heaters. The 25W heater is the safer choice, since it limits the maximum temperature the hot end can get to, while with the 40W heater you can reach higher temperatures (and reach them faster). Barring a very unlikely scenario in which simultaneously (1) the power supply fails and starts supplying excessive voltage and (2) the MOSFET and/or firmware fails, a heater that is sized appropriately to the load it is driving can never pose any danger.\n\nI don't think it's common to install thermal fuses on steppers, stepper drives or the power supply (which should have its own protection). For every possible location to place a thermal fuse, you can probably think up a failure mode in which that fuse would save the day, but at a certain point it just becomes overkill. The stepper drivers would likely burn out well before the steppers would get hot enough to pose a threat, and overheating of the stepper driver would probably (violently) destroy it but afterwards it should not pose any threat.\n\nAxial v.s. radial does not matter, just use whatever is convenient for your situation.\n\n* Note that some bimetallic switches short one of the leads to the (metal)\n case when tripped, which poses a danger, especially with mains-powered heaters.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n4084,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,2.528907649931287,5.454525478049026,2.7799718631987322,6.034324953675596,2.746326330407206,1.4598072896409044,Is it a good idea to include thermal fuses in a DIY 3D printer design?,\"3D printing should be relatively safe, however, the inherent nature of 3D printers, with all of the heated parts, constitutes a fire risk. A well designed 3D printer should be designed to be as safe as possible, especially one used in the home... Yes, the recommendation is, when printing, to watch the 3D printer at all times and never leave a print unattended. However, with some print times lasting hours and days, this is not always feasible, nor practical. So, some inbuilt safety features should be included, to at least mitigate the risk of fire, to some extent.\n\n\nIs the use of thermal fuses1,2 a good idea3? \nWould you use more than one?\nWhere should one place a thermal fuse? Next to a particular component, or free standing, in the air, to get an average, rather than highly localised temperature? \nAgainst which components should a thermal fuse be placed? There are a number of places to choose from, such as next to:\n\n\nThe hotend? \nThe heated bed? \nThe extruder? \nEach of the stepper motors? \nThe power supply? \nThe RAMPS stepper motor drivers?\n\nOf lesser import, which type should one use4, radial or axial?\n\n\n\n\nHas anyone added thermal fuses to their 3D printers? Or has anyone examined where the thermal fuses are placed in commercial 3D printer designs, if used at all?\n\n\n\nBackground\n\nI have recently found myself having to repair rice cookers and fans in Thailand. In those, it is very often the thermal fuse (axial thermal fuses for the rice cookers and the square \"\"radial\"\" types for fans) that requires replacing, as they have blown before the device got hot enough to start a fire. This got me thinking about their use in a 3D printer. \n\n\n\nFootnotes\n\n1 We are not talking about the standard, replaceable, thermo-fuse,or fuse, which blow upon a current surge, short-circuit, etc. These are thermal fuses that contain metal connector within them that melts (permanently) at a specific temperature (typically ~135°C), thereby breaking the circuit.\n\n2 Nor am I referring to resettable fuses (AKA PPTC, multifuse, polyfuse or polyswitch)\n\n3 Would a thermal fuse be preferable to thermal cut offs, in the case of fire?\n\n4 The thermal fuses used in rice cookers are the axial type, and in the motors of fans are the radial type.\n\",cmm,\"I have a Thing-O-Matic which included a thermal fuse above the heat break.\n\nFor my home-brew printer (a large delta machine) I have a smoke alarm and a fire alarm mounted under the top of the print volume. These are wired together and give me a NO and NC dry contact. My plan is to connect this to a power kill circuit. I haven't found a good way to flood the entire machine, including the electronics, with CO2 gas or another extinguisher when the alarm sounds.\n\nI've added some additional information on parts purchasable on DigiKey:\nThe first is a 10 A, 152 C thermal fuse rated for line voltage. This would be appropriate for bonding to a heated bed.\nThe second is rated to trip at 260 C.\nBoth of these are less than $1.50 each.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4173,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,2.528907649931287,4.054429646414086,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.488653845767225,Complete list of fasteners for the Sintron Kossel,\"TL;DR\n\nI need a complete list of fasteners (bolts, nuts and washers) for the Sintron Kossel. \n\n\n\nHas anyone bought this kit, and knows the answer, or knows where this is documented?\n\nA complete list would be great, but in particular, I need the dimensions (M2.5/3/4/5? and length) and quantity of the bolts (and nuts) which:\n\n\nfasten the PCB mounted mechanical switches to the PLA rectangular end stop spacers/holders, and;\nfasten the PCB mounted mechanical switches and the PLA rectangular end stop spacers/holders to the extruded 2020 aluminium.\n\n\nI have:\n\n\nSearched the web, but to no avail;\nRead the product page, which states only \"\"screws and nuts provided\"\"; \nContacted Sintron, but not had an answer;\nObtained the Sintron build manual but there is no list contained therein, nor contains details about the fasteners relating to the endstops, and;\nObtained the Blomker manual, from which the Sintron manual is copied, but that also has no list (as well as not being relevant with respect to the endstops).\n\n\nNote that I am only interested in the fasteners specifically for the Sintron Kossel and not the Kossel in general. The Sintron uses the PCB mounted mechanical switches (with four holes), and not the simple barebones mechanical switches (with two holes), and uses 2020 aluminium1, not 1515 OpenBeam:\n\n\n\nWhy? Because I purchased only the 3D printed parts from Sintron, and I am sourcing the rest of the parts cheaply, either locally or from Chinese suppliers on eBay.\n\n\n\n1 In my particular case, there is an additional complication. The profile of the non-standard/non-\"\"European\"\" 2020 extrusion that I am using, does not take T-Nuts, only M5 hexagonal nuts (it is unbelievably difficult to find the standard 2020 extrusion in Bangkok). Combine that with the fact that the Sintron kit uses only M3 nuts and not M5 (I only discovered this after purchasing the printed parts kit (see the email from Sintron, in my answer below) - not through lack of research, but because there is no available list of fasteners), then I have the problem of finding a nut to use (see Fat hexagonal M3 nuts, with outer diameter greater than 6 mm).\n\nHere is a photo\n\n\n\",Greenonline,\"After examining the guide (Kossel mini instrution by sintron technology_v2) and the printed parts kit, I came up with an 99.9% complete parts list. The lists relating to the effector and autoprobe mount maybe slightly incorrect:\n\n##Parts List\n\n###Listed by Printer part/section:\n\n####Fasteners\n\n#####BOTTOM VERTEX (QUANTITY = 3)\n\nFor each:\n10 x M3 x 8 mm\n10 x M3 nut (T-nut)\n\n#####TOP VERTEX (QUANTITY = 3)\n\nFor each:\n5 x M3 x 8 mm\n5 x M3 nut (T-nut)\n\n1 x M3 x 35 mm\n1 x M3 nut\n1 x M3 washer\n\n\n#####IDLERS (QUANTITY = 3)\n\nFor each:\n1x M3 x 25 mm\n4x M3 Washers\n1 x M3 Nut\n2x F623ZZ\n\n#####MOTORS (QUANTITY = 3)\n\nFor each:\n2 x grub\n4 x M3 x 8 mm\n1 x 16T/20T GT2 pulley\n\n#####EFFECTOR\n\n6 x M3 nyloc nuts\n6 x M3 x 25 mm\n\n4 (5?) x M3 x 16 mm <<==, or\n2 (3?) x M3 x 16 mm <<==\n2 x M3 x 20 mm <<== For the auto probe, if mounting the autoprobe directly on to a collar, above the hotend, and not on to the flange on the Sintron PLA collar\n\n4 (5?) x M3 nuts <<==\n\n2 x M3 x 8 mm <<== fan mounted to Sintron PLA collar\n2 x M3 nuts <<==\n\n1 x PC4-M6\n\nNote: Some additional bolts are required for the mounting of the hotend. It is unclear what these are. See link.\n\n#####VERTICAL CARRIAGES (QUANTITY = 3)\n\nFor each:\n2 x M3 x 20 mm\n\n#####ROLLER CARRIAGES (QUANTITY = 3)\n\nFor each:\n2 x M3 x 10 mm\n1 x M3 x 25 mm\n3 x M3 nuts\n3 x M6 x 25 mm\n3 x M6 nut \n2 x M6 washer (optional)\n\n#####ENDSTOPS (QUANTITY = 3)\n\nFor each:\n1 x M3 x 8 mm <<==\n1 x M3 nut (T-nut)\n3 x M3 x 8 mm <<==\n3 x M3 nut\n\n#####SPOOL\n\n6 x 625-2RS Bearing (or 625zz)\n5 x M5 x 20 mm\n1 x M5 x 25 mm\n6 x M5 nut\n6 x M5 washer\n(or 7 x M5 washer – there is a discrepancy between the kit (7) and the manual (6))\n3 x M3 x 8 mm ?\n3 x M3 nut (T-nut)\n\n#####EXTRUDER\n\n1 x M3 x 40 mm\n1 x M3 x 8 mm\n1 x M3 x ?? mm <<==\n2 x M3 nut (T-nut)\n\n1 x PC4-01\n\n#####AUTOPROBE\n\nNote: This is optional\n\n2 x M2.5 x 12 mm\n1 x M2.5 x 12 mm\n2 x M3 x 8 mm <<== If mounting the autoprobe on to the flange of the Sintron PLA collar (if mounting directly on to a collar, above the hotend, then these are not required, and 2 x M3 x 20 mm replace 2 x M3 x 16 mm on the effector)\n2 x M3 nuts <<== If mounting the autoprobe on to the flange of the Sintron PLA collar (if mounting directly on to a collar, above the hotend, then these are not required)\n\nSafety Pin 2.5 mm\nSpring 23.5mm\n\nTerminal Block\n1.5mm Allen key\n\nNote: Some additional bolts are required for the mounting of the autoprobe, as well as the hotend. It is unclear what these are.\n\n#####GLASS BED\n\n3 x M3 x 8 mm ?\n1 x M3 x 20 mm\n4 x M3 nut (T-nut)\n\n#####RAMPS\n\nNote: This is optional, as mounting on the top will interfere with the spool\n\n2 x M3 x 35 mm\n2 x M3 nuts\n2 x M3 nuts (T-nut)\n\n###Total Parts:\n\n####Fasteners\n\n#####BOLTS\n\nSize, Length, Quantity\nM3, 25, (1×3)+(6)+(1×3) = 3+6+3 = 12\nM3, 8, (10×3)+(5×3)+(4×3)+(4x3)+(3)+(1)+(2)+(3) = 30+15+12+12+3+1+2+3 = 78\nM3, 16, 5\nM3, 20, (2×3)+(1)+(2) = 6+1+2 = 9\nM3, 10, (2×3) = 6\nM3, 35, 3\nM3, 40, 1\nM6, 25, (3×3) = 9\nM5, 20, 5\nM5, 25, 1\nM2.5, 12, 3\n\n#####GRUB SCREWS\n\nSize, Quantity\n?, (2×3) = 6\n\n#####NUTS\n\nSize, Quantity\nM5, 6\nM6, (3×3) = 9\n—\nEITHER\n\nM3, (10×3)+(5×3)+(1x3)+(1×3)+(5+2)+(3×3)+(1×3)+(3×3)+(3)+(2)+(2)+(4) = 30+15+3+7+9+3+9+3+2+2+4 = 90\n\nOR\n\nM3, (1×3) + (1×3) + (5+2) + (3×3) + (3×3) + (2) = 3+7+9+9+2 = 33\nand\nM3 T-slot nut, (10×3) + (5×3) + (1×3) + (3) + (2) + (4) = 30+15+3+3+2+4 = 57\n—\n\n#####NYLOC NUTS\n\nSize, Quantity\nM3, 6\n\n#####WASHERS\n\nSize, Quantity\nM3, (1x3)+(4×3) = 15\nM6, (2×3) = 6\nM5, 6 (or 7)\n\n####Bearings\n\nSize, Quantity\nF623zz, 6\n625-2RS, 6\nOR\n625zz, 6\n\n####Printed Parts\n\nTBD\n\n####Structural\n\n3 x 2020 x 750/600 mm\n9 x 2020 x 360/240 mm\n\n####Electronics\n\n1 x Arduino Mega 2560\n1 x RAMPS 1.4\n5 x Stepper drivers\n3 x PCB mounted mechanical switch\n3 x Stepper motors\n1 x Extruder stepper\n\n####Belts\n\n3 x 16T/20T GT2 Pulley\nGT2 belt (5 meters)\n\n####Other Parts\n\nSafety Pin 2.5 mm\nSpring 23.5mm\nTerminal Block\n1.5mm Allen key\n9 x Delrin wheels\n9 x 696zz bearings\n\n1 x PC4-M6\n1 x PC4-01\n\n###Uncertainties\n\nThe fasteners required for the following parts is, as yet, unclear\n\nEffector/Hotend mount\nAutoprobe mount\nAdditional Extruder holder screwpoint\n\n###Assumptions\n\nHotbed frame mounts (assumed to be M3 x 8 mm)\nSpool frame mounts (assumed to be M3 x 8 mm)\nEndstops (four M3 x 8 mm are used, not just one)\n\n\nSee also Kossel - Sintron parts list.\n\n\n\nI have a partial answer from the suppliers:\n\n\n Hi \n \n Good Day !\n \n thanks for your contact.\n \n we use M3 bolts + T-nuts .\n \n i suppose the problem is , you don't have T-nuts , right ?\n \n T-nuts is used for 2020 extrusion.\n \n with warm regards.\n \n james\n\n\nI replied for a clarification of the length required:\n\n\n Many thanks for the reply.\n \n I have two types of 2020 extrusion, with differing profiles: one that\n takes T-Nuts, and; one that takes regular hexagonal M5 nuts.\n \n For the T-nut extrusion I have both M3 and M5 T-nuts.\n \n However, the second type of 2020 extrusion takes regular M5 nuts.\n Regular M3 nuts will not stay in place, unless I can find some M3 nuts\n with a larger outer diameter, greater than 7 mm.\n \n With respect to the M3 bolts, what are the lengths required? Are two\n lengths used? One length to secure the endstop switch and holder to\n the 2020 extrusion, and then another length to secure the remaining\n three holes? Looking at the diagram in your build guide, it seems as\n if only one bolt is used to secure the endstop switch and holder to\n the frame, is that correct? Are any other bolts used to secure the PCB\n mounted switch the the endstop holders.\n \n I thank you in advance.\n \n Best regards\n\n\nI followed this up with a second email\n\n\n Hi again James,\n \n Following on from my previous reply.\n \n Firstly, I have found that flanged M3 nuts will work perfectly, in the\n extrusion that will not accept T-Nuts.\n \n Secondly, what I really am looking for is a list of the lengths (and\n dimensions) of the bolts used throughout the Sintron build. In\n particular the endstop bolts. Rather than having to iteratively deduce\n each bolt, a list of the bolts used would be very handy.\n \n I thank you again in advance for your kind consideration.\n \n Best regards,\n\n\nI received a second reply from Sintron\n\n\n Hello Friend.\n \n for endstop . it's M3*8mm . \n \n i am collecting the list of them for you soon.\n \n thanks.\n \n james\n\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4173,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,2.528907649931287,4.054429646414086,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.488653845767225,Complete list of fasteners for the Sintron Kossel,\"TL;DR\n\nI need a complete list of fasteners (bolts, nuts and washers) for the Sintron Kossel. \n\n\n\nHas anyone bought this kit, and knows the answer, or knows where this is documented?\n\nA complete list would be great, but in particular, I need the dimensions (M2.5/3/4/5? and length) and quantity of the bolts (and nuts) which:\n\n\nfasten the PCB mounted mechanical switches to the PLA rectangular end stop spacers/holders, and;\nfasten the PCB mounted mechanical switches and the PLA rectangular end stop spacers/holders to the extruded 2020 aluminium.\n\n\nI have:\n\n\nSearched the web, but to no avail;\nRead the product page, which states only \"\"screws and nuts provided\"\"; \nContacted Sintron, but not had an answer;\nObtained the Sintron build manual but there is no list contained therein, nor contains details about the fasteners relating to the endstops, and;\nObtained the Blomker manual, from which the Sintron manual is copied, but that also has no list (as well as not being relevant with respect to the endstops).\n\n\nNote that I am only interested in the fasteners specifically for the Sintron Kossel and not the Kossel in general. The Sintron uses the PCB mounted mechanical switches (with four holes), and not the simple barebones mechanical switches (with two holes), and uses 2020 aluminium1, not 1515 OpenBeam:\n\n\n\nWhy? Because I purchased only the 3D printed parts from Sintron, and I am sourcing the rest of the parts cheaply, either locally or from Chinese suppliers on eBay.\n\n\n\n1 In my particular case, there is an additional complication. The profile of the non-standard/non-\"\"European\"\" 2020 extrusion that I am using, does not take T-Nuts, only M5 hexagonal nuts (it is unbelievably difficult to find the standard 2020 extrusion in Bangkok). Combine that with the fact that the Sintron kit uses only M3 nuts and not M5 (I only discovered this after purchasing the printed parts kit (see the email from Sintron, in my answer below) - not through lack of research, but because there is no available list of fasteners), then I have the problem of finding a nut to use (see Fat hexagonal M3 nuts, with outer diameter greater than 6 mm).\n\nHere is a photo\n\n\n\",markshancock,\"I found two lists for the Kossel mini (the documents you referenced are for a mini, so that is what I am assuming you got). One as a Google Doc and one as an order sheet \n\nBoth seem to list all the fasteners.\n\nHere is a Sintron mini carriage assembly and it lists the hardware included\n\nI found an ebay listing for the Sintron 2020 Rails. The recommended screws are M3x20mm and here is the infor on the required t-nuts.\n\nHappy building.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4203,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,1.726248027126092,3.2707264231908733,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Aluminium cube - fan and hotend mount - is it worth it?,\"Has anyone used one of these aluminium cubes?\n\n\n\nIt is used to mount the fan for the hotend, when used on a delta effector, like so:\n\n\n\nAre they a good idea? \n\nWithout actually buying one and trying it, compared to the traditional fan mount, I imagine the pros are \n\n\nAdditional heatsink surface area\n\n\nand that is it, I could think of only one tenuous advantage...\n\nHowever, I would imagine that the cons are:\n\n\nAdditional weight on the effector1, for the push rods to move around, i.e. slightly higher inertia;\nProbably restricted air flow, and;\nUnnecessary additional cost\n\n\nTherefore, as the cons appears to outweigh the pros, are they worth upgrading to from, say, a typical plastic fan mount:\n\n\n\nDoes anyone have first hand experience? Are there any other additional benefits, and/or is heat dissipation that much better? \n\n\n\n1 Of course, the lightest solution is with the fan mounted, such that it hangs off the top of the effector, but with no air flow guide and hence less effective heat dissipation.\n\",Ecnerwal,\"I think its only advantage is that it serves to move money from the folks who buy it to the folks that sell it, and that's an advantage purely for the folks that sell it.\n\n\"\"Additional heatsink surface area\"\" is quite doubtful - it would have poor coupling to the actual heatsink. If the actual heatsink is correctly designed, there's no need for additional area, anyway. This design clearly does limit airflow to the top and bottom fins - the bottom one, in particular, is not a good place to limit airflow for best function, and yet it's severely occluded by the design of this block.\n\nSave your money.\n\nEdit - I think the plastic one shown is also less than ideal - the close coupling to the edges of the heatsink reduces the effectiveness of the heatsink, which would otherwise be dumping heat into the airflow past those edges. A better design (IMHO, gut engineering) would be spaced off the ends/edges of the fins about as much as the space between fins, not touching them. Axial fans perform poorly with backpressure, and that would also reduce backpressure.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n4209,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,3.267423727073639,4.216594029191973,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,Can cheap hotend parts sourced from China actually produce good prints?,\"TL;DR\n\nIs it possible to build a hotend, using separate parts, sourced on eBay, from China, and still achieve a high quality print?\n\n\n\nIn my opinion, the E3D V6 hotend is rather expensive, at $/£70, especially to those building to a tight budget. Now, obviously/presumably, there is some quite rigorous QA and testing of the build, and they have to pay for their research costs and initial machining set ups and this is reflected in the high cost. Also, the expression, you get what you pay for, springs to mind.\n\nHowever, I wondered if I sourced the individual parts from China, for a dollar apiece, that is to say the:\n\n\nThroat (with Teflon lining)\nHeating block\nHeatsink\nNozzle\nPneumatic connector (PC4-05/PC4-M06)\nHeater\nThermistor\n\n\ncould I too, end up with a hotend, that performs as well as, or even out performs, an E3D hotend, or am I living in cloud cuckoo land?\n\nAfter all, let's not forget that most, if not, all of the parts used in a E3D hotend probably come from China anyway, these days, as most production facilites have moved from the US/EU to the cheaper manufacturing bases and machining shops, in SE Asia.\n\nI have read so many times that people were experiencing extrusion problems, shoddy prints, etc, from their cheap printer, until they finally shelled out the cash and upgraded to a genuine E3D hotend. After that the prints were much improved. I have read this countless times, in blogs, threads, etc., so I presume that it is not possible.\n\nI realise that if the parts are not finished correctly, and end up with burring on the inside of the throat, nozzle, etc., then the filament will not extrude correctly. See tbm0115's answer to How long is an extruder's/nozzle's life? However, assuming that the parts that I receive are machined, and finished, correctly then there should not be a problem, right?\n\nHas anyone actually done this? Is tinkering with hotends a done thing? Does anyone have any good pointers and/or tips?\n\nNOTE: This question is not really after opinionated answers, in order to stay within SE rules - although opinions are always welcome - but I just want to know if anyone has first hand (positive or negative) experience of this.\n\",Ecnerwal,\"Hard to say for sure - my whole printer is cheap parts bought as a kit in China by a Chinese student who abandoned it in the US (I resurrected it after it was abandoned.) It includes all the parts you list, and I think we finally sorted out what the thermistor actually is so the temperatures are more accurate now.\n\nIt prints. \n\nCould it print better? - Probably, but at some point replacing all the various cheap parts starts to look foolish .vs. just build a new printer with better parts all around, leaving the original functional. I doubt I've ever met a \"\"E3D V6\"\" and I'd have to google it to see what sort of paragon of printing it's supposed to be. The only thing I'm actually considering replacing is the nozzle itself, partly because I'm just guessing what size it is (mostly based on the way it prints when set to various sizes.) I'm also contemplating adding some sort of insulation for the heater block, having squnched some aluminum foil around it as a first stop-gap.\n\nLikewise, if your concern is with burrs, etc. a degree of fettling by you can sort that sort of thing out, if you know to do it and how to do it (i.e. you need to be somewhat mechanically ept.) But of course \"\"parts from China\"\" are not a monolithic entity - there are good parts and bad parts that both come from China - given the state of internet sales, you may well have (unknown to you) the choice of parts that passed quality control, parts that failed quality control, and parts that quality control never looked at (some of which might pass, some of which might fail), from the same production facility, available to you from various vendors at various price points. And then there are many different production facilities as well.\n\nProduction in the US or Europe is no magic bullet either - competing with imports on price is difficult, so one hopes that superior quality is on offer, but it may or may not actually be from a given vendor, or a given batch of parts.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n4209,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,3.267423727073639,4.216594029191973,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,Can cheap hotend parts sourced from China actually produce good prints?,\"TL;DR\n\nIs it possible to build a hotend, using separate parts, sourced on eBay, from China, and still achieve a high quality print?\n\n\n\nIn my opinion, the E3D V6 hotend is rather expensive, at $/£70, especially to those building to a tight budget. Now, obviously/presumably, there is some quite rigorous QA and testing of the build, and they have to pay for their research costs and initial machining set ups and this is reflected in the high cost. Also, the expression, you get what you pay for, springs to mind.\n\nHowever, I wondered if I sourced the individual parts from China, for a dollar apiece, that is to say the:\n\n\nThroat (with Teflon lining)\nHeating block\nHeatsink\nNozzle\nPneumatic connector (PC4-05/PC4-M06)\nHeater\nThermistor\n\n\ncould I too, end up with a hotend, that performs as well as, or even out performs, an E3D hotend, or am I living in cloud cuckoo land?\n\nAfter all, let's not forget that most, if not, all of the parts used in a E3D hotend probably come from China anyway, these days, as most production facilites have moved from the US/EU to the cheaper manufacturing bases and machining shops, in SE Asia.\n\nI have read so many times that people were experiencing extrusion problems, shoddy prints, etc, from their cheap printer, until they finally shelled out the cash and upgraded to a genuine E3D hotend. After that the prints were much improved. I have read this countless times, in blogs, threads, etc., so I presume that it is not possible.\n\nI realise that if the parts are not finished correctly, and end up with burring on the inside of the throat, nozzle, etc., then the filament will not extrude correctly. See tbm0115's answer to How long is an extruder's/nozzle's life? However, assuming that the parts that I receive are machined, and finished, correctly then there should not be a problem, right?\n\nHas anyone actually done this? Is tinkering with hotends a done thing? Does anyone have any good pointers and/or tips?\n\nNOTE: This question is not really after opinionated answers, in order to stay within SE rules - although opinions are always welcome - but I just want to know if anyone has first hand (positive or negative) experience of this.\n\",0scar,\"Sorry for digging up the topic, but I'd like to share my experience with cheap Chinese parts obtained from those obvious auction sites.\n\n\n\nFor my Hypercube Evolution I have ordered all parts from Chinese suppliers except for the Aluminium extrusion profiles. This includes belts, screws, nuts, electric cables, printer board, steppers and drivers, hotend parts, you name it. \n\nI do not own, or have ever owned, an official E3D hotend, so I cannot compare the clone E3D hotends to the official directly. However, I do own an Ultimaker 3 Extended (UM3E) that I manage for a group of printing enthusiasts to promote building your own printer and produce spare parts that are not sold commercially or sold at ridiculous prices. The quality of the products produced by the UM3E are very good, as expected from this quality brand, so I can compare the products from my own printer with the ones from the UM3E. \n\nIt is often said by others that the prints I have created with my HyperCube Evolution are at least as good as the products produced on the UM3E, or sometimes even better. In that respect, it is very hard to see any differences in the products. The UM3E is known for the simplicity of use and it's relative low need to tinker to get or keep it working, but my own creation does not require a lot of tinkering either. E.g. I have never had any clogs (several kilometers of 2.85 mm filament printed) while I use a relative high retraction length (the same as on the UM3E as default in Cura). In this respect I have never had the need to upgrade to an official E3D hotend, and most likely will never do need to.\n\nSo to answer your question if it is possible to build a hotend, using separate parts, sourced from China, to achieve a high quality print (while maintaining a low need for tinkering), I can vouch that it is indeed possible.\n\n\n\nSidemark:\nNote that if you source your materials locally, e.g. local webshops, you probably also end up with imported Chinese parts! (usually at much higher costs; but at least they arrive sooner!)\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6247,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,1.0891412423578797,3.5267987966466157,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How to use an Anet A8 control board with a damaged AVR IC?,\"\nThis post was taken from this comment, as the OP did not repost their deleted answer as a new question.\nSee associated post on SE.Meta: Is it possible to attribute a wiki post to a user?\n\n\n\n\nWith respect to this question: Anet A8 reading 739°C from the extruder thermistor!\n\nHaving read the issue, it seems that this is a common problem for the ANET3D board. I'd like to ask two questions:\n\n\nIs it possible to sever connections to the ATMEGA and use the hardware itself while controlled with the Raspberry Pi or some other dev board?\nWhile waiting for a new board (seems to be the only cost/time effective choice), is there any way to use the other temperature circuit (likely having to do some work in Arduino IDE)? \n\n\nMy hot end decided to set itself to 265°C while my bed is reading the new thermistor on the new Hot End just fine. I need to get a few prints made while waiting on funds to replace the board for full functionality.\n\nI figure #1 is too much to hope for, but I have to ask. So, if you swap the heater circuits, what do you have to modify in configuration.h to convince the firmware to accept the modified input?\n\",Greenonline,\"This post was taken from Tooniis's comment.\n\n\n\nI've been doing #2 for a week now. I swapped ports of the nozzle and hotbed. Now I have a functional nozzle but the bed cannot be heated. The new hardware should arrive soon though. As for #1, it would be very hard to do since the ATmega chip is an SMD package. \n\nIn sanguino.h there are two lines which define the pins for the hotbed thermistor and the nozzle thermistor. One of them is 6 and the other is 7, and I just swapped those two. The lines are next to each other.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n6498,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,2.8153892694839717,2.9728043627528558,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Why not use GT2 en lieu of a Z-axis threaded rod or leadscrew?,\"Having just re-read Tom's excellent answer to my question Advantages of GT2 over a rack, as my comment ponders1:\n\nWhy is a threaded rod, or lead screw, used for the Z-axis movement in a Prusa (and its derivatives) given the inherent problems relating to backlash?\n\nIndeed the majority of, if not all, delta printers generally use GT2 for the three vertical movements, presumably for this reason (of reduced backlash). Maybe cost and simplicity also play a part? I am purely speculating on these three reasons. The mass of the three vertical carriages and the associated carbon rods, would certainly seem to be a lot less than the mass of a cartesian X-axis gantry. \n\nIs it purely for reason of the mass of the X-axis gantry (especially if the extruder is mounted upon it - in a non-Bowden solution) that mechanical rods are used, as GT2 would not be able to lift the weight, without stretching (both over time and flexing slight upon each movement)? If so, then surely wire reinforced GT2 could be used?\n\nAs a potential aside, would another consideration be to compare the inertia of a GT2 solution to that of a threaded rod, leadscrew solution2?\n\n\n\n1 I have a nagging worry that I have already asked this somewhere else, but after having spent the best part of a day looking for it and failing, I am asking here.\n\n2 Although I am not entirely sure how that would be measured/compared, as one solution (leadscrew) is rotational, with a translation to linearal via the screw thread, and the other (GT2) is (effectively) fully rotational? I am going to ask about this particular point on SE.Mechanical Engineering, and will update this question as necessary.\n\",0scar,\"A lead screw can be fitted with a anti-backlash nut to get past your concern about backlash. Generally, backlash is not that of a problem considering the weight of the carriage (e.g. Prusa), or whole bed (e.g. CoreXY or Ultimaker). Certainly if you're not using Z-hop, the Z screw will only advance in a single direction!\n\nGT2 belts are always reinforced with fibres either glass, steel or some other fibre, all with their own (dis)advantages.\n\nAs far as I have learned is that lead screws are far better capable of transporting higher loads at the cost of speed. Also, a leadscrew will have more resistance so that if you unpower the steppers, the gantry will not plummet to the bed.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n6524,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,2.1782824847157594,5.3551513359974035,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,What are the specifications of the dual voltage controller of the Ender 3/CR-10?,\"Following on from What level of voltage does the Creality Ender-3 run at?\n\nDave's answer states that both 12 V and 24 V can be used on the controller board. It also goes on to say that the controller board is used in both configurations in two different printers:\n\n\nEnder 3 and;\nCR-10\n\n\nI would like to know how this dual voltage operation works:\n\n\nDoes it use both voltages at the same time, or either one or the other? \nAre there two different electrical inlets or are they the same?\nDoes it auto-detect or are there jumpers used to configure or are the components tolerant to both voltage levels? \n\n\nAlso related:\n\n\nWhat is the board used? \nIs the board a proprietary design or a standard third party board? \nDoes anyone have any photos of the board and/or schematics?\n\n\",Trish,\"I own the Ender 3, and it runs on 24V, as this photo of the power supply shows:\n\n\nFrom power supply to the board, it uses a 2-wire line connected with a XT60 plug/jack that is common on RC cars:\n\n\nThe board itself is a proprietary design and labeled as \"\"V1.1.2\"\". The Voltage in is the lowest input on the left:\n\n\nThe Cooling fan (blue-yellow wire), the hotend cooling fan, heater cartridge (white shielded), bed heater (left black-red), board cooling fan (middle red-black) run (in this setup) on 24V. The Logic connectors (black-black & White-white) run 5V logic. I could not figure out the voltage of the stepper motors (upper row).\n\nI have not figured out how the power management circut works, but it achieves this:\n\n\nSupply voltage $ U_S = 12V \\lor 24V $\nLogic Voltage $ U_L = 5V $\nSensor Voltage $ U_{sens} = U_L$\nHotend Cooling Fan $ U_{cool} = U_S$\nHotend Heating Cartridge $ U_{hot} = U_S $\nHeatbed $ U_{bed} = U_S $\n\n\nThe chip's caption can't be read on the photo, but it is labeled as \"\"Δ ATMEL // ATMEGA1284P // AU 1726\"\"\n\nFor the pinout, a german maker did determine, that it the configuration of a Sanguino equipped with an Atmega1284P 16Bit works for compiling firmware and flashing via a bootloader.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6524,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,2.1782824847157594,5.3551513359974035,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,What are the specifications of the dual voltage controller of the Ender 3/CR-10?,\"Following on from What level of voltage does the Creality Ender-3 run at?\n\nDave's answer states that both 12 V and 24 V can be used on the controller board. It also goes on to say that the controller board is used in both configurations in two different printers:\n\n\nEnder 3 and;\nCR-10\n\n\nI would like to know how this dual voltage operation works:\n\n\nDoes it use both voltages at the same time, or either one or the other? \nAre there two different electrical inlets or are they the same?\nDoes it auto-detect or are there jumpers used to configure or are the components tolerant to both voltage levels? \n\n\nAlso related:\n\n\nWhat is the board used? \nIs the board a proprietary design or a standard third party board? \nDoes anyone have any photos of the board and/or schematics?\n\n\",0scar,\"This answer addresses the input voltage. If you look up the official replacement board at the official Creality store the board features a single pair of connectors next to it says: 12 V / 24 V. So you can either use 12 V, or 24 V, not both. An internal regulator will most probably reduce the voltage anyways. \n\n\n\nPlease note that (kindly reminded by user profesor79 through the comments) that the microprocessor on these boards only use 5 V. So any voltage you supply (12 or 24 V), the voltage regulator will always make sure the microprocessor does not get more than 5 V. However, that does not necessarily apply to all peripherals connected to the board! This should be verified if for the peripherals also a voltage regulator is used. One of my own boards, the RUMBA board can be fed by any voltage ranging from 12 V - 35 V, but this also applies to the peripherals like the heater cartridge and the fans! I use the RUMBA with a 24 V power supply, so I need to use 24 V fans heater elements and heat bed.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6577,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,2.528907649931287,2.998962115503461,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,What printer is this?,\"I've been watching this video 3D printing guides: Calibration and why you might be doing it wrong and at the start (at 0:30) three of the first Reprap printers are mentioned (and shown): \n\n\nDarwin;\nPrusa Mendel, and;\nwhat sounds to be \"\"Cells\"\".\n\n\nHere is a screenshot:\n\n\n\nwhich, to me, looks like a Mendel.\n\nHowever, after having looked at:\n\n\nRepRapWiki - RepRap project, and;\nAll3DP - The Official History of the RepRap Project\n\n\n... I can not see the \"\"Cells\"\" printer listed or mentioned. \n\nAm I hearing it correctly?\n\nOr is it \"\"Sells\"\", in reference to Edward Sells, one of the four authors of RepRap – the replicating rapid prototyper? However, this paper only mentions/shows the Darwin and Mendel printers.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Yes, it is a \"\"Sells Mendel\"\" in reference to Edward Sells. As noted on the RepRap wiki:\n\n\n Ed Sells, a student of Dr. Adrian Bowyer, designed and built the first Mendel printer, sometimes called a \"\"Sells Mendel\"\" to distinguish the original design from later tweaks.\n\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n6586,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,2.528907649931287,4.5333637435259675,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,What is a masterspool?,\"Recently, I have heard people talking about masterspool, when talking about 3D printing filament.\n\n\nWhat exactly is master spool?\nWhere did the idea come from and when?\nIs it being widely adopted? Or to be specific, how many distributors/manufacturers have adopted this already, and is it gaining traction?\nIs this something that I should get excited by?\nIf so, why is it such a good idea?\n\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"One key difference between a 'masterspool' and any old spare empty reel you have left over is that the masterspool is a 2-part design which can be fitted over an existing roll of filament without needing to un-spool and re-spool the whole roll.\n\nThe idea being that filament can be packaged and secured for shipment (with cable ties or the like) without needing to include a whole spool every time. The end user can buy/print only as many spools as they need.\n\nThis concept also allows for 'extra' features to be included in the spool (such as retention for loose ends) without these features being wasted on every discarded spool.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n6586,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,2.528907649931287,4.5333637435259675,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,What is a masterspool?,\"Recently, I have heard people talking about masterspool, when talking about 3D printing filament.\n\n\nWhat exactly is master spool?\nWhere did the idea come from and when?\nIs it being widely adopted? Or to be specific, how many distributors/manufacturers have adopted this already, and is it gaining traction?\nIs this something that I should get excited by?\nIf so, why is it such a good idea?\n\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"A masterspool is the practice of printing your own spool out of filament, which will then be used to support your filament you purchase without a spool attached. The main idea is to create a reusable spool and create less waste. \n\n(NOTE: I'm in no way affiliated with MatterHackers.com, nor am I an endorser of their products. There is also a version which Village Plastics has created.)\n\nOn MatterHackers.com website, they state:\n\n\n Filament without a spool? Why are we making this? The short answer: because the community wants it. We had enough questions, comments and plenty of tweets asking if we had plans to pick up the Master Spool concept. Seeing the response and interest within the community made it clear to us: we needed to bring this idea to the States. With a joint effort between MatterHackers and Village Plastics, you can now purchase Master Spool refills from within the US.\n\n\nThey are tying to apply the Reduce, Reuse, Recycle mantra to create a cleaner environment for the rest of the world. While they are not the first to create or use a printable spool, they are pretty happy to be pressing forward with the idea of having a reusable spool and selling filament without a spool attached.\n\nMatterHackers go on to state:\n\n\n What are the benefits of the Master Spool? Not only is there the benefit of reducing plastic waste, using a Master Spool will also reduces shipping costs for new spools, and limits the clutter from amassing of a huge collection of used or empty spools. Rather than throwing away, trying to recycle dozens of spools, or trying to come up with a way to reuse them in some (like the Spool Tool), using the Master Spool means you can use all those filament scraps you have laying around on something useful and have one spool for all of your filament.\n\n\nAs far as where it started, it appears to have originated with this print on Thiniverse created by Dingoboy71. A well known 3D printer named RichRap created the reusable spool which MatterHacker promotes, though they say there are several which will work with their product (Village Plastic says pretty much the same). \n\nIf you get excited about saving the planet, then you should be excited about this. If you are a robust printer, going through tons (hopefully not literally) of filament per year, this method will save a lot of waste in the long run.\n\nRealize there are (as of this writ) only limited suppliers of spool-less filament, though I think the trend for this type of product will increase in the future as the idea catches on. I guess time will tell. \n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n7228,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,1.0891412423578797,2.9816351676497708,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Is lubricating filament a good idea?,\"With respect to Himanshu's comment about applying a lubricant to PLA filament, and then having read the Reddit thread, Seasoning all-metal hot ends with oil?, pointed to in 0scar's answer, I was wondering if any studies have been done on the topic?\n\nIf so, what is the general consensus? From the Reddit thread it seems as if the better quality branded hotends, such as E3D do not require it, whereas the older, or less well finished clones, may well benefit from such treatment.\n\nIn addition, which oil is preferable, animal, vegetable or mineral? Is vaseline a good idea?\n\nAlso, would the advice differ if ABS filament is used, or would the same conditions apply?\n\",Nach0z,\"I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say this is probably not a good idea in any capacity.\n\nFirst off, if you take a look at this list of cooking oils, you'll notice that pretty much all of them have smoke points below the printing temperature of ABS, with a handful of exceptions that have smoke points just barely above that temperature. All that means is that the hydrocarbon chains are going to break down inside your extruder, which really accomplishes nothing helpful for you. As the compounds break down further and oxidize with the small amounts of air coming into the extruder, you're going to get carbon fouling on all surfaces, including the filament itself as it extrudes.\n\nSecond, and this depends entirely on the amount of oil present, but I'd expect to see oil actually coating the filament somewhat as it comes out of the nozzle, and acting as a separating agent between the lines of filament on the print itself. I'm not sure how much you'd actually experience this, but again, best case scenario is it doesn't happen, and the oil doesn't give you any real advantage here.\n\nThird, the process of seasoning cast iron works because the surface of the cast iron should be smooth for minimal food sticking, and any kind of rusting causes pits and porosity in the metal. Seasoning just ensures that oil stays in the metal to prevent moisture from interacting with it, and to provide a very thin oil layer that somewhat separates food from the metal until the food is hot enough that its own fats have started to lubricate it against the pan. Extruders on the other hand really shouldn't have porous surfaces nor be made of easily oxidized materials. Stainless heatbreaks, aluminum blocks, brass nozzles, all of these really aren't going to rust readily and probably won't benefit much from an oil coating.\n\nFourth, if you're looking for a nonstick coating for the interior of the extruder, a PTFE liner has been known to give excellent results for a very long time now. If you're printing above the temperatures PTFE can survive at, then unfortunately you're also printing above the temperatures that pretty much any cooking oil (or petroleum jelly) will survive without rapidly breaking down.\n\nSo to summarize, you're not going to find many oils that can even survive inside an extruder, and they wouldn't really give you many benefits for the duration of time that they weren't just a charcoal slurry.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n9981,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,3.452496054252184,5.729409673741512,0.0,4.670422881206417,4.731113485304429,3.859356439026359,Why does the painters tape have to be blue?,\"I have been looking at getting some painters tape to use on the glass plate for better print adhesion, and everything I read suggests the blue painters tape, such as this:\n\n\n\nHowever, this white tape is considerably cheaper:\n\n\n\nThis looks like normal masking tape to me.\n\nIs masking tape ok, or is the blue painter's tape preferable? If the latter, then why is that so? What is so special about the blue tape? Is it a different material?\n\",0scar,\"To answer your question, it doesn't have to be blue tape!\n\n\n\nTo be honest, tape is not my favorite bed adhesion solution, there are plenty other options that work better than tape. \n\nOften you'll see references to blue painters tape (of a certain brand) to be used as a bed adhesion layer because many people have good experience with that. I have tried several tapes, white/cream to blue from various vendors but found that neither of the tapes satisfied my personal needs. To name a few: cleaning, application, preparation, repair, tear-off, no glossy first layer, color of tape sticking to printed part, etc. did not make tape a favorite bed adhesion solution. Instead I've been printing directly onto aluminium and glass using an adhesive (3DLAC or DimaFix) to stick filament to the bed. Use a wet cloth to wipe residue off, spray can to apply a new layer, et voila, just print, it always sticks! Glue stick is also a possibility.\n\nSo while the community screams \"\"use blue tape\"\", you just cannot use any blue tape from any tape manufacturer. There is no standard to which blue tape has to comply. Generally, speaking from painting experience, many blue tapes release much more easily after use while the white/cream paper tape sticks better and often tears (but this is frequently the tape that is already applied on heated beds of many Chinese printer kits, see image above). Not all tapes are equal: I have used blue tape from a local cheap source that will not stick to the build plate when it heats up, even if properly cleaned. \n\nI'm more inclined to think that the color of the tape is just a way to distinguish yourself from the market back when the first manufacturer introduced the tape. Now that it is more common, others have adopted the color mimicking the tape they want to copy. It is more about the adhesive than it is about the surface of the tape (as in: \"\"tape is rougher than the substrate you stick it on\"\"), also you read that many people using blue tape need to prepare it by cleaning it (remove waxy layer) and sanding it.\n\nIMHO, you just need to experiment yourself with several solutions and see what works best for you, could be that the white/cream tape from a local source also does the job. So basically, your tape does not have to be blue, it has to work!\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n9981,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,3.452496054252184,5.729409673741512,0.0,4.670422881206417,4.731113485304429,3.859356439026359,Why does the painters tape have to be blue?,\"I have been looking at getting some painters tape to use on the glass plate for better print adhesion, and everything I read suggests the blue painters tape, such as this:\n\n\n\nHowever, this white tape is considerably cheaper:\n\n\n\nThis looks like normal masking tape to me.\n\nIs masking tape ok, or is the blue painter's tape preferable? If the latter, then why is that so? What is so special about the blue tape? Is it a different material?\n\",Joel Coehoorn,\"The second image isn't exactly painter's tape. Both images are types of masking tape, but the common manila/cream-colored masking tape vs the blue or green painter's tape typically has three features that make it less desirable for bed adhesion:\n\n\nStronger glue holding the tape to the bed, that will make it harder to change later.\nNarrower strips, so it's harder and takes longer to place the tape on the bed.\nThicker, softer material. This is good for filament adhesion, but bad for separating from the filament after the print and accurately leveling the bed.\n\n\nAgain: those are only typical arrangements. You can get blue painters tape at the same narrow width as manila masking tape, and you can get wider or thin manila tape. It's more a matter of what you'll commonly find for sale, and in all probability the manila/cream-colored tape will work just fine.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10222,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,1.726248027126092,2.7905764474501265,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"Does cheap \"\"plasticy\"\" blue painter tape actually melt when printed upon?\",\"Leading on from Darth Pixel's photographically informative answer to Why does the painters tape have to be blue?, which showed close up the plastic fibers of cheaper versions of painters tape... as Darth Pixel himself questions:\n\n\n is such tape melted in any way in contact with extruded filament?\n\n\nIn other words, does such cheap, low quality, tape use fibres made from a plastic which has a melting point lower than that of PLA or ABS? If so, does this cause the tape to stick to the 3D print?\n\nObviously the higher quality (manila/paper) based tapes would not suffer from this potential melting issue.\n\nDoes anyone have real-world experience of this? Any photos showing melting would be great.\n\",dracotdragon,\"It really depends on the tape. In my case, I've used various types of blue painters tape in bed adhesion situations and have only had one occasion where it sticks to the part. (All experience is with PLA) Best advice I can give is give it a shot, and be sure to wait for the part to cool before removing it from the bed for the best chance at not having tape stuck to the part. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10601,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,1.0891412423578797,3.4059665074531917,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Is this re-Arm controller actually 24 V capable?,\"I would like to make a 24 V (3D printer board and shield) setup, as opposed to the usual 12 V, and to do so I had been considering using the Taurino Power board, or the clone Eruduino. However, I just found this board:\n\n\n\nThe specifications state a DC input of up to 36 V:\n\n\n\nDoes anyone know whether that really means it can handle 24 V in the same manner as the Taurino/Eruduino? If so, then that looks like a double win: not only 24 V support, but also a faster processor. Anyone have experience with this board?\n\nI was thinking of using with a RAMPS1.6 Plus (maybe), or just a regular RAMPS 1.4 (hacked to support 24 V). I'm just shopping about, and I thought that if I was going to spend £14 on an Eruduino, then I just as well spend that money on something better.\n\nIt does work with Marlin apparently, as some of the customer reviews would suggest, but none of the reviews that I could find referred to a 24 V setup (heated bed etc.), hence my question.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Given that the capacitor near the input is quite clearly marked 35 V, a 36 V rating seems questionable.\n\nThe (buck) regulator used on the (genuine version of the) board is the AOZ1282CI which supports up to 36 V input. This is probably where they got the 36 V rating from, but obviously the 35 V-rated capacitors drop the input voltage down below this.\n\nSchematics for the board are available on the RepRap wiki and show that the input voltage only feeds into the regulator. I see no reason why this board couldn't handle 24 V input, as this is well within the rating of both the regulator and the capacitors.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n10601,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,1.0891412423578797,3.4059665074531917,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Is this re-Arm controller actually 24 V capable?,\"I would like to make a 24 V (3D printer board and shield) setup, as opposed to the usual 12 V, and to do so I had been considering using the Taurino Power board, or the clone Eruduino. However, I just found this board:\n\n\n\nThe specifications state a DC input of up to 36 V:\n\n\n\nDoes anyone know whether that really means it can handle 24 V in the same manner as the Taurino/Eruduino? If so, then that looks like a double win: not only 24 V support, but also a faster processor. Anyone have experience with this board?\n\nI was thinking of using with a RAMPS1.6 Plus (maybe), or just a regular RAMPS 1.4 (hacked to support 24 V). I'm just shopping about, and I thought that if I was going to spend £14 on an Eruduino, then I just as well spend that money on something better.\n\nIt does work with Marlin apparently, as some of the customer reviews would suggest, but none of the reviews that I could find referred to a 24 V setup (heated bed etc.), hence my question.\n\",Greenonline,\"For completion, I've just seen this, Can a ramps 1.6 support 24v? (which basically confirms the 24 V support of the Re-ARM board) although it isn't particularly useful w.r.t. the RAMPS 1.6 side of things, although I would imagine the the 24 V RAMPS hack would still apply.\n\nIn addition, Alex Kenis does a great review, and he has successfully tried it with 24 V, watch 32-bit series part 4: Re-ARM board \"\"review?\"\". Whilst the RE-ARm offers a lot of advantages, some of the main down points to be aware of are:\n\n\nNo 5 V analogue inputs, they are 3.3 V, so the endstops use 3V3 logic (not a problem from mechanical switches, but 5 V optical endstops will have a problem\nSome of the pins of the Mega are missing from the Re-ARM.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10611,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Greenonline,1.726248027126092,3.4382327199056495,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,\"Is it necessary to replace the SMD fuses in RAMPS 1.5 or greater, for use with 24 volts?\",\"One of the main hacks for converting RAMPS 1.4 boards to use with 24 V, as stated in RAMPS 24V, is replacing the polyfuses, principally F2 (MF-R1100), with wire and using an inline (car blade or wire) fuse on the heatbed wire (or between PSU and RAMPS) instead1. However, that is for the RAMPS 1.4 boards.\n\nAs RAMPS 1.5 notes (as well as 0scar's answer to RAMPS 1.4, 1.5 or 1.6?):\n\n\n The RAMPS 1.5 uses small surface-mounted fuses rather than the large yellow fuses prone to breakage on the RAMPS 1.4. The downside is that replacing the fuses becomes much more difficult.\n\n\nAre these SMD fuses rated the same voltages, or greater? Yes, this could be a bit like asking \"\"How long is a piece of string\"\" as it depends upon the manufacturer, but does anyone know what voltage should they be rated for?\n\nUltimately, if they are both rated at greater than 24 V, then there should be no need to replace them.\n\nThe answer on this thread, Re: Ramps1.4 or Ramps1.5 or ramps 1.6??? states:\n\n\n OK the ramps 1.6 can only handle 12v OR 24V\n\n\nso, that would imply that the intention for 24 V support was there, although, unfortunately, the poster does not post their reference.\n\nHowever, the PDF of the RAMPS 1.6 schematic shows the same rated fuses as the RAMPS 1.4\n\n\n\nNevertheless, that seems like a straight forward copy and paste from the RAMPS 1.4 schematic as it clearly references the MF-R500 PTC, and obviously SMD fuses have been used instead - or are the part numbers the same for the SMD fuses..? I had a google but couldn't see MF-R500 SMD fuses (maybe I didn't look hard enough?).\n\n\n\nFootnote\n\n1 This is because the 11 A fuse is only rated to 16 V. Note that F1 (MF-R500) is rated for 5 A at 30 V, and as such is sufficient for 24 V operation. \n\",Kevin Morse,\"Without knowing the exact part numbers used for F1 and F2 it is impossible to say whether the fuses need to be replaced or not. However, based on the manufacturer provided schematic and BOM we can make a pretty good guess.\n\nLooking at the PDF you linked, it states that F1 is rated for 16V. Looking at the BOM spreadsheet it also says F1 is 16V and 30A.\n\nBased on the fact that the only two reference documents available say 16V, I would strongly recommend replacing this component for 24V operation.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n3024,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Derek M,2.1782824847157594,3.7949968053939322,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Power Over Ethernet (Pi Zero Mod),\"I'm looking to make 20-30 IoT devices, with the pi zero.\nThe price point is perfect, the only downside is that it doesn't have an Ethernet jack and the power adapter is not included.\n\nI found a mod that deals with both of these issues, however it would involve a lot of soldering. The mod takes a USB to Ethernet adapter and 48 to 5 volt converter and allows the device to be both powered and connected to the internet with just an Ethernet cable.\n\nWith 3D printing or Milling is it possible to make something that snap fits the components together and mitigate a lot of soldering?\nIs it possible to print or mill something that will do the 48 to 5 volt conversion?\n\nComponents:\n\n\nTwo male micro USB heads\n48 to 5 volt converter\nEthernet adapter board\nPi zero\n\n\n\n\",Derek M,\"3D Print A Solderless Circuit Board\n\nI think this was the solution I was looking for, unless someone else knows a method that's cheaper, faster, safer, etc.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n3028,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,yeemonic,3.618048892289167,6.005580496009009,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,\"How do the E commands in G-code work, exactly?\",\"I've tried looking online but haven't quite found the answer to what I'm confused about, exactly. Consider the following 3 lines of G-code:\n\nG1 X129.000 Y126.322 E7.90758\n\nG1 X128.349 Y125.707 F7800.000\n\nG1 X128.476 Y125.548 E7.92045 F1800.000\n\n\nDoes the absence of an E command in the second line mean that no material is to be extruded from line 1 to line 2? As I understand it, the E parameter controls how much material has been extruded up to that line.\n\nThe reason why I am asking is because I'm trying to understand on the code level how to identify when a printer will travel without extruding any material, in the case of moving in the Z direction, or if you are printing multiple disconnected parts in one print. Since none of the Z lines seem to have any E commands, I'm inclined to believe that the absence of an E command means that when moving to the given position from the previous line, no material will be extruded. I've tried quite a few different queries online to try to discover if this is the case, but haven't found a simple answer, so I was hoping someone on this board could enlighten me.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Yes, the absense of an EX.XXX (or an EX.XXX with the same value as the previous one) means nothing will be extruded during the move. The extruder is treated as an imaginary fourth axis and works exactly the same as any other axis: if in a G1/G0 no new coordinate for it is specified, it retains its original position.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n3041,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Luis Rosety,1.0891412423578797,3.5909472313636615,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Installing Slic3r on Kubuntu 14.04 with NVIDIA,\"I am running crazy trying to install Slic3r on my Kubuntu 14.04. It is a fresh Kubuntu and I downloaded the Slic3r package from them.\n\nAt first it worked well but then I changed the display driver to NVIDIA instead of the default Nouveau. I have repeated this operation a couple of times and I am almost sure that the NVIDIA driver screws up my system.\n\nI have read and followed several \"\"SOLVED\"\" posts but none of them gave me a solution.\n\nAny ideas?\n\",John Perry,\"There is a huge problem with any linux distributions and Nvidia drivers. I have tried countless times to get that driver to work but it crashed my systems time after time. If your slicer works with the default driver i would not try to change it. If it doesn't then you may have to go to windows where the driver is guaranteed to work. I know this is not the answer you are looking for but unless you can code a new driver to work for Linux thats the only solution.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5268,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Luis Rosety,2.1782824847157594,4.599170049223906,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,How to generate gcode only for first layer?,\"As first layer is so important, I am looking for an easy way to generate the gcode to print just the first layer.\nI see that with Slic3r you can cut from a Z\nBut for test purposes I prefer just selecting a number of layers to be generated so I can easily generate different \"\"first layer(s) tests\"\" with different first layer(s) settings (width, height, speed, flow....)\nThe only way I achieve it is editing the gcode.\nAny help?\nThanks\n\",Davo,\"You could just insert an M30 at the end of layer 1, and the job will end there.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5268,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Luis Rosety,2.1782824847157594,4.599170049223906,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,How to generate gcode only for first layer?,\"As first layer is so important, I am looking for an easy way to generate the gcode to print just the first layer.\nI see that with Slic3r you can cut from a Z\nBut for test purposes I prefer just selecting a number of layers to be generated so I can easily generate different \"\"first layer(s) tests\"\" with different first layer(s) settings (width, height, speed, flow....)\nThe only way I achieve it is editing the gcode.\nAny help?\nThanks\n\",mac,\"I understand your question like this:\n\n\n I know I could cut the mesh and just slice the bottom of my model, but since I am interested in a given number of layers and the heigh of a layer may change according to settings (e.g.: 0.2mm, 0.1mm, 0.05mm...), I want to find a way to generate an arbitrary number of layers from the full model. I use slic3r.\n\n\nIf my understanding is correct, then you can achieve what you want with a few steps.\n\nUse verbose GCODE\n\nThe setting is under \"\"Print settings → Output Options\"\". This will output gcode with comments in it.\n\nSave the finishing gcode of a valid printing job\n\nBasically, open a valid gcode file, and save the last few lines (comments will help you to understand which ones, it changes from printer to printer) in a separate file (gcode.tail). These lines are typically those that move away the nozzle from the print, disable the heating element, the steppers and the part cooling fan.\n\nPrepare the first-lines.sh script\n\n#! /usr/bin/env sh\nsed -e '/move to next layer (3)/,$d' $1 > /tmp/gcode.tmp\necho ~/gcode.tail >> /tmp/gcode.tmp\necho /tmp/gcode.tmp\n\n\nWhat this script does is:\n\n\ntake a file name from the command line ($1) and savie into gcode.tmp only the part of it up to and excluding the line saying \"\"move to the next layer (3)\"\" (you should actually use the number of layers you actually want here, 3 is just an example). Again, the presence of such a line depends from you generating \"\"verbose gcode\"\".\nappend to gcode.tmp the content of the file gcode.tail (here replace ~/ with the actual path on your machine.\noutput as a stream the full content of gcode.tmp\n\n\nSet your printer to automatically run the script onto the generated gcode\n\nThis setting is again under \"\"Print settings → Output Options\"\". You have to type in the full path to first-lines.sh. Also remember to make the script executable (chmod +x first-lines.sh).\n\nYou can also hover over the textbox to get additional information of how you can access slic3r variables there (for example you may want to read the layer height from the settings and compute within the script the number of layers you want to keep).\n\nProfit\n\n:)\n\nFinal notes:\n\n\nI tried the sed command and have post-processing scripts running on my gcode myself, so it should work, but I haven't tried the full procedure myself, if you encounter bugs please leave a comment so I can fix the answer for everybody. :)\nI use slic3r Prusa Edition (I believe these settings are the same, but just in case... you may wish to download that version.\nAll of the above should work out-of-the-box on all mainstream Linux distributions and OSX. For windows, it has been suggested in the comments to install CygWin.\nSince this procedure still slices the full model and then throw away most of it, you could make it faster by only slicing a reasonably thick \"\"bottom part\"\" of your model. For example: say that you know you will never want to print more than 5 layers and never with a layer height past 0.3mm... in this case you could only keep the bottom 2mm of your model and you'd be safe for all other combinations of layers and layer heights. Don't keep exactly 1.5mm though, as this is likely to generate a different top layer than the one in the full model.\n\n\nGood luck! :)\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n3043,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Taumen,2.8153892694839717,3.605205619671559,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,3.322464497796202,Does the amount of figures on the board matter?,\"When 3D-printing on an 20*20cm, I've heard that the quality of the printings get worse if I fill out the board... Is it true? Should I keep it to small amounts at the time or doesn't it matter?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"No, that's not (entirely) true. There might be some loss of quality if you print multiple objects at once, because when the printhead \"\"hops\"\" from one object to another it might leave a mark or ooze out some material. Also, a large number of retractions in a short period of time might lead to inconsistent extrusion.\n\nHowever, none of this is particular to \"\"filling out the board\"\" as it happens even if you print only two objects at a time (or even when you're printing only one object with multiple islands).\n\nIt all depends on your printer (and in particular how well it handles retractions). If you're willing to do a small amount of cleanup afterwards (to remove the strings and blobs) then printing multiple objects at a time is completely viable.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n3043,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Taumen,2.8153892694839717,3.605205619671559,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,3.322464497796202,Does the amount of figures on the board matter?,\"When 3D-printing on an 20*20cm, I've heard that the quality of the printings get worse if I fill out the board... Is it true? Should I keep it to small amounts at the time or doesn't it matter?\n\",emackey,\"Just to add to the other answers already here, I've also had problems with layer adhesion when filling up the print bed on an extrusion printer. The longer the print head spends working on details around a single layer, the more chance the layer has to cool off before the next layer gets started. I've started to suspect that layers that take longer to print end up with less adhesion to the next layer.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3050,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mast,2.1782824847157594,3.877977106177861,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Printing a non-self-aligning caged deep-groove ball bearing,\"I've recently designed a non-self-aligning caged deep-groove ball bearing. Now I'd love to get one 3D printed.\n\nHowever, assembling those can be tricky and I highly doubt it's even plausible to print them. All the components themselves can be printed without a problem, but I'm not sure whether I'll be able to put them all together in the end.\n\nWhat are my options?\n\nFDM printers are probably out, although it would be great if I can find a way to use those. Would an SLA or perhaps an SLS printer be able to pull it off?\n\nOf course the thing still has to work (move) in the end.\n\n\n\",kaine,\"How about using a dual nozzle FDM printer with ABS and HIPS?\n\nYou can use HIPS to print any support materials or any spacers that you need. The HIPS can then be dissolved using Limonene. Limonene will not do much of anything to ABS.\n\nSimilar ball bearings have been printed like this before. I am not aware of any reason this would not work for you. Other types of ball bearings have been printed in FDM with no support material.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3050,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mast,2.1782824847157594,3.877977106177861,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Printing a non-self-aligning caged deep-groove ball bearing,\"I've recently designed a non-self-aligning caged deep-groove ball bearing. Now I'd love to get one 3D printed.\n\nHowever, assembling those can be tricky and I highly doubt it's even plausible to print them. All the components themselves can be printed without a problem, but I'm not sure whether I'll be able to put them all together in the end.\n\nWhat are my options?\n\nFDM printers are probably out, although it would be great if I can find a way to use those. Would an SLA or perhaps an SLS printer be able to pull it off?\n\nOf course the thing still has to work (move) in the end.\n\n\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Two aspects of your question can immediately be addressed, one with much less certainty than the other.\n\nIf you were to print the indicated parts using PLA on an FDM printer and assembled as much as possible up to say, the outer bearing ring, you might be able to use boiling water to soften the ring with boiling water enough to get it around the balls. It's also possible that the deformation will effectively destroy the usefulness of the part.\n\nOn the other item, SLS is virtually perfect for this type of part. The un-sintered nylon powder provides positional support for all of the other parts being sintered. When the print is completed, the powder is blown out with high pressure air, freeing up the individual components as per the original design.\n\nBe advised that there is to be expected some shrinkage of the parts which will affect any segment of the component that has tight or close clearances.\n\nFrom Shapeways site regarding SLS printed parts (Shapeways)\n\n\n\nExecutive summary:\n\nmaintain a wall thickness of at least 1mm,\naccuracy is 0.1mm,\nalways keep a clearance of 0.6mm\nand parts may have a deviation of 0.2mm.\n\n\nWhen designing something mechanical that has to be 3D printed or when adding a mechanical feature to your model there are several main considerations.\n\n\n\nAlso listed in the above link are the considerations of enclosed parts. Each of the balls in the bearing design may or will be printed as a hollow sphere filled with nylon powder. The bearing rings will also be printed as shells, unless appropriate steps are taken to make them solid.\n\nBy the same token, if a part need not be solid and can be designed with holes to \"\"drain out\"\" the un-sintered powder, the cost will be reduced accordingly.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n3059,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sean Houlihane,2.528907649931287,5.385121066948358,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Alignment of dual Z-axis steppers,\"My newly built ANET A8 has dual Z-axis steppers (and two threaded rods), but only an end-stop on one side. Am I missing some detail for ensuring proper alignment of Z as the extruder moves along the Z-axis? I notice there are mountings for a 2nd end-stop, but nowhere to attach this on the MCU board.\n\nIt seems that even after I check the leveling, there is scope for the two steppers to get out-of sync once the servos are turned off - is this something to worry about? I realise that during a print run, if I start with good alignment this should stay good.\n\nI've only managed about 10 minutes of printing so far, and everything seems to work, but this is my first printer, so obviously I might have missed a vital step in the instructions quite easily.\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"All the Prusa-based designs I've seen have only one end stop. While you are correct that it's theoretically possible for the two Z-drives to get out of sync, it's very unlikely in practice (barring serious friction, binding, etc.). \n\nBut even if it happens, remember that the endstop microswitch is only used to keep the extruder assembly from crashing into the print bed. The stepper motors do not have shaft encoders, or any other position sensing mech, so if they were to get out of sync, there'd be no way to know this. \n\nThe reason there's provision for a stop mount, on both sides, is simply to make the physical parts of the frame the same. \n\nThat said, it is important to check the extruder support assembly to verify it's level as you build the printer - \"\"level\"\" meaning both supports are the same distance from the screw-drive shaft couplers.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n3065,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sean Houlihane,3.452496054252184,6.184355468436341,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.6553159206313057,Z-axis steppers and bed alignment problems,\"I've actually solved this, but I think its still a useful question which I don't think is easy to answer with existing questions.\n\nAs soon as I'd built my ANET-A8 (Prusa i3 DIY kit), I found I was having problems with the extruder crashing into the bed. Although I thought I'd adjusted the bed leveling OK, the calibration seemed to keep getting messed up.\n\nI tracked this down to two factors. First, I was winding the extruder head up some distance before loading the filament and starting a print. Second, at roughly half-way up the axis, the right-hand thread seemed to be getting stuck (more often when moving up than down).\n\nWhat wasn't clear (and not mentioned in the building instructions) was what might cause this problem.\n\",darth pixel,\"I assume you did everything according to the instructions but here is a checklist of what could be possibly wrong:\n\n\nFriction - check if you can rotate/move parts without lot of resistance\nScrews - check if screws on couplings are tight and they don't slide over a shaft or thread\nStepsticks - check if they are cooled properly and similar (as there are two of them)\nCarriage nuts on threads - check if they do not slide out of their nests while [the x-axis] carriage goes up\nFilament - check if filament unrolls without resistance which can eventually cause [the x-axis] carriage to hang.\n\n\nIMO #2 and #3 are the most possible cause\n\n\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n3065,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sean Houlihane,3.452496054252184,6.184355468436341,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.6553159206313057,Z-axis steppers and bed alignment problems,\"I've actually solved this, but I think its still a useful question which I don't think is easy to answer with existing questions.\n\nAs soon as I'd built my ANET-A8 (Prusa i3 DIY kit), I found I was having problems with the extruder crashing into the bed. Although I thought I'd adjusted the bed leveling OK, the calibration seemed to keep getting messed up.\n\nI tracked this down to two factors. First, I was winding the extruder head up some distance before loading the filament and starting a print. Second, at roughly half-way up the axis, the right-hand thread seemed to be getting stuck (more often when moving up than down).\n\nWhat wasn't clear (and not mentioned in the building instructions) was what might cause this problem.\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"So after reading the instructions more carefully, ANET do cover this in their operating instructions under troubleshooting. On closer inspection, I realised that the brass nut following the right hand thread seemed to be out of alignment with the stepper at the bottom. Fiddling with the flexible coupling helped a bit, but what I needed to do was place the assembly at the tight point, slacken the 3 bolts marked SHCS in the diagram, then tighten them again. I was expecting I might need to open out the holes, or re-make the white (factory printed) part, but this wasn't necessary.\n\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n3121,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sean Houlihane,3.452496054252184,5.170736307179414,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Missing top layers in Cura,\"I've just tried to make some small labels with embossed lettering. Base is 1.5 mm, with letters and a perimeter protruding by another 1 mm. After printing, I realised that Cura is not giving me a top layer, all I get is an inner and outer wall for the perimeter and the lettering:\n\n\n\nThe base is OK, with 4 layers, but there is no infill at the top. Presumably there is a setting that I've missed (I can appreciate that maybe this is a detail to the slicing which is model dependant). Layers are 0.2 mm, top and bottom set to 4 layers.\n\nI had walls set to 1.6 mm, (4 layers) and the wall features here are 1 mm (i.e. 2.5x the nozzle). The features are solid so far as I know, not drawn as a hollow.\n\nI found a relevant bug for Cura: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/1303 (and I also understand a workaround now, just need to write up an answer).\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"What is happening here is that Cura is struggling with the quantised extrusion width. This behaviour can be improved in the slicer, they have a issue tracked here https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/1303 and 2.4 beta has improved it.\n\nThere are some pictures in this answer which show how Cura 2.3 slices a rectangle of increasing width. I got nothing at the nozzle width, then a pair of overlapping lines up to twice the width (which I assume will be over-extruded due to the overlap). For anything wider than simply two sides, the result depends on the number of walls requested.\n\n\nOne wall results in 100% infill for small regions (regardless of the infill setting). This is good, but maybe 1 wall is not apropriate for the whole model.\nMultiple walls seem to prevent the infill untill there is space for pairs of walls. So width of 3x nozzle has a gap. Small tweeks to the nozzle size can maybe push this quantisation point about, if 1 wall is not a good workaround.\n\n\nFor rectangular geometry, it's worth trying to quantize small parts in 0.8mm increments. For curves, setting 1 wall shell might be better.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3121,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sean Houlihane,3.452496054252184,5.170736307179414,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Missing top layers in Cura,\"I've just tried to make some small labels with embossed lettering. Base is 1.5 mm, with letters and a perimeter protruding by another 1 mm. After printing, I realised that Cura is not giving me a top layer, all I get is an inner and outer wall for the perimeter and the lettering:\n\n\n\nThe base is OK, with 4 layers, but there is no infill at the top. Presumably there is a setting that I've missed (I can appreciate that maybe this is a detail to the slicing which is model dependant). Layers are 0.2 mm, top and bottom set to 4 layers.\n\nI had walls set to 1.6 mm, (4 layers) and the wall features here are 1 mm (i.e. 2.5x the nozzle). The features are solid so far as I know, not drawn as a hollow.\n\nI found a relevant bug for Cura: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/1303 (and I also understand a workaround now, just need to write up an answer).\n\",lz42,\"Try Cura 2.4.0-beta2: there is option named \"\"Fill Gaps Between Walls\"\" under \"\"Shell\"\" settings, set it to \"\"everywhere\"\". In stable Cura 2.3.1 this option is missing.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3300,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sean Houlihane,2.1782824847157594,4.257234337324085,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Retainer for PTFE in throat,\"I've tried using a throat with a PTFE tube, but encountered the problem described in this question. It seems only a small amount of excess pressure in the extruder is enough to force out the inner tube. This makes me worry that with this particular part, I won't achieve a reliable configuration (and I'm experiencing some binding with the original plain steel throat, so a PTFE liner seems worth exploring).\n\nI was wondering about the advisability of using a retainer to apply some pressure at the cold end - a nut with a washer soldered on maybe.\n\nMy goal is to prevent the teflon tube from rising up, so I can use this part and retain some resilience against excess extrusion pressure. I was assuming I had a slightly sub-standard throat part (in a pack of 6).\n\nHowever, I now wonder if the problem was caused by too high a temperature (this is ABS filament) and maybe the teflon will be too soft to function as designed, so if I go back to PLA filament, maybe it is more likely to work without modification.\n\n \n\n\",tbm0115,\"In this case I would like to first recommend replacing your PTFE tube with a better quality product. Unfortunately, the quality:price ratio is as to be expected here. My reasoning:\n\nPTFE has great thermal properties for a polymer, just like ABS. In fact, the glass-transition state begins at relatively the same temperature between the two materials. ABS starts transitioning at about 105°C and about 127°C for PTFE.\n\nHowever PTFE, traditionally, has a much higher melting point at about 327°C as opposed to the usual 125° we use in 3D printing.\n\nMy Point: I think the hardware you currently have has low-quality PTFE.\n\nPTFE can be recycled for re-use in other PTFE products. In recycled PTFE, you can lose a lot of the desired properties in the material (true for any material). This includes both the ideal \"\"friction-less\"\" and thermal resistance we need in 3D Printing.\n\nWhat I think happened: The higher print temperatures of ABS transitioned the PTFE into its glass-state. As the throat expands, the path of least resistance in the assembly is towards the extruder motor since the nozzle holds more pressure.\n\nI would not recommend \"\"fixing\"\" this problem with a retainer! By forcing the PTFE throat to stay in position, you could potentially force the PTFE to expand in other ways. Most likely resulting in constricting the filament, leading to grinding of filament on the drive gear and clogging of the nozzle. Worst case, you end up with gooey PTFE in your nozzle and/or around your retainer.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3300,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sean Houlihane,2.1782824847157594,4.257234337324085,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Retainer for PTFE in throat,\"I've tried using a throat with a PTFE tube, but encountered the problem described in this question. It seems only a small amount of excess pressure in the extruder is enough to force out the inner tube. This makes me worry that with this particular part, I won't achieve a reliable configuration (and I'm experiencing some binding with the original plain steel throat, so a PTFE liner seems worth exploring).\n\nI was wondering about the advisability of using a retainer to apply some pressure at the cold end - a nut with a washer soldered on maybe.\n\nMy goal is to prevent the teflon tube from rising up, so I can use this part and retain some resilience against excess extrusion pressure. I was assuming I had a slightly sub-standard throat part (in a pack of 6).\n\nHowever, I now wonder if the problem was caused by too high a temperature (this is ABS filament) and maybe the teflon will be too soft to function as designed, so if I go back to PLA filament, maybe it is more likely to work without modification.\n\n \n\n\",StarWind0,\"I see, you want to Block the tefflon tube from going Up and Out of the extruder. Yes I see no reason why you would not fid a nut cap. Drill a hole and have it work. There is likely a special nut cap with a pre existing hole in it already but I decided the keywords was asking for bad results on a work computer. \n\nThe only thing I can see happening is you will 1) possibly not have the clearance. 2) have a larger thermal mass.\n\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n3356,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sean Houlihane,2.528907649931287,5.111675823956558,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Identifying PLA/PETG or ABS,\"I received a roll of Black filament as a present, and struggled to print with it, experiencing extreme under-extrusion (and slippage of the hobbed gear). Higher temperatures seemed to work better, particularly in freeing up the extrude rate.\n\nThe filament is advertised as PLA, but without any temperature recommendations that I can find on the vendor's website (or the amazon listing). Amazon reviews have a fairly wide range of temperatures, but the listing aggregates several colours. There is a suggestion that the filament may be PETG, or ABS.\n\nI have tried using acetone, and it dissolves roughly the same as some ABS I have, my PLA shows some weakening but doesn't dissolve.\n\nBelow about 215°C, extrusion is borderline non-existent. I printed at 225°C with a fan, and it extruded kind of OK, but adhesion was poor. 240° without a fan seems a bit on the hot side (see photo). Even 255°C seems to extrude OK without burning. There is no smell I can observe (but I have a cold). It burns with a small blue flame, and minimal smell (kind of like natural gas).\n\nOne factor against it being ABS is that with the bed at 60°C, printing both a benchy and the heat tower below, there was no warping. Bed adhesion remained good.\n\nIs there anything I can do to better identify this filament and decide the best combination of fan/temperature without wasting too much time?\n\n255° to 225° heat tower, seems different to the ABS i've used:\n\n\",StarWind0,\"There is a trick. However I would like to mention that chances are that the random spool you pickup from most stores, especially no name brands, are either completely lying to you about its material or is mixed / cut with cheaper fillers. All about finding a good brand. Course rarely does one actually need pure PLA, a mixed material will often perform as well without you even noticing. Aside from the temp difference. Not to say it is right.\n\nNow the trick is this. While I don't advise ever breathing in potentially carcinogenic plastic smoke. You take a lighter. Burn it. If it smells sweet it is PLA. \n\nFrom this link from digital trends about PLA VS ABS you can see why it has this smell.\n\n\n The thermoplastic is also more pleasant on the nose, as the sugar-based material smells slightly sweet when heated opposed to the harsh smell often associated with ABS. However, while PLA might seem like a better overall choice at first glance, it features a far lower melting point than ABS.\n\n\nAlso not responsible if you burn yourself or your property. At your own risk. \n\nJust warming it with lighter might work too. But just burning a small section. It will be real clear. \n\nOr you could just drop a bit into aceton and see if it melts. PLA will mostly just look like crud after being treated is aceton. ABS is 100% dissolve. \n\nWe see from these forums that PETG does not dissolve via Aceton. So you can test you material. If it does disolve it is ABS. If it smells sweet when burned it is PLA. If it melts at 240 and does not dissolve it is likely PETG.\n\n\nSolid forums\n3d printboard\n\n\nWe are a bit lost on a test for PETG. However we do know its melting point. Which is 240-260c. I would say it is likely you have ABS\n\n\n\nOnce we know the material we can get to the meat of your question. \n\nBest way to proceed is to start with simple calibration prints. The thin wall. Cube, and part fitting. Once those pass you are good to go. Other than buying simplify3d I do not know of any short cuts. Back when I used slic3r I kept a spread sheet. I would change a temp by 5 degrees and give it a quality score. Repeat with speeds. Far as fan, I would expect that it wont effect much. Maybe need to calibrate your PIDs.\n\nOnce you have it dialed in, all you will need to do is calibrate the temp when switching materials. Remember you need to calibrate even between different colors (okay its best to.. I often skip) I usually do the temp adjustments live on the printer. Increase and degrease a few degrees. For me the goal is to have the plastic as cool as possible. That allows for highest quality prints (ie less oozing and such)\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n4225,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sean Houlihane,2.528907649931287,4.212248758188748,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.878685800062712,Lack of isolation between axes,\"Sometimes I notice that if I manually command a single axis movement (typically Z, when I want better access to the extruder), I observe that several channels move together (and they maybe move slower than I expect). After one 'coupled' movement, subsequent commands have the result I'm expecting.\n\nWhat happens is as well as the Z-axis moving up, the bed moves forward, and the extruder moves to the right. I have no auto-leveling or anything else non-standard on this printer (dual Z steppers, X, Y, extruder, bed, extruder heat).\n\nIt even happens if I simply extrude some of the time (e.g. changing filament after warming up, retract gave me some X movement)\n\nPrinter is an ANET-A8, I'm using mainly OctoPrint, but I think I've also observed this with other PC software manual controls.\n\nIt doesn't happen often enough for me to have identified any pattern - maybe it only happens if I've not homed first after turning the printer on, but I suspect not.\n\nIt's not so much of a problem, as just a question for interest. Also not sure how to tag.\n\",cmm,\"I don't know details of your printer, the motor drivers, the firmware, or the wiring harness. I only have looked photos at the ANET-A8.\n\nYour question has ruled out a complex-axis movement caused by auto-leveling.\n\nPrinters that are not based on simple cartesian actuators, such as delta or core-xy machines use multiple actuators to make what results in a simple, single axis head movement. Your printer is not based on one of these mechanisms, but if the printer were temporarily misconfigured, it may move unexpectedly.\n\nOn the hardware side, some stepper drivers work with \"\"step\"\" and \"\"direction\"\" inputs. If there is a problem with signal integrity on these signals as referenced to the stepper driver's ground, you may be introducing an unintended step pulse. Stepper drivers typically use pulse-width-modulation (PWM) to set the power through each of the two motor windings (coils), and generate noise that depends on too many factors to list. Check that you have a direct ground wire from the stepper drivers to the controller board. If the drivers are integral with the controller board, one would hope the PCB was well designed.\n\nIt is possible the motion is caused by some force causing unpowered stepper motors to move, although most unpowered motors will still have a bit of detent torque resisting motion. This would require that Z-axis movement was causing some force on the other axes. For the ANET-A8, the filament could apply side-to-side force to the extruder when moved up or down, but it is difficult to see how it could cause front-to-back movement of the bed. \n\nYour code may allow you to set the idle motor current as well as the active current. If so, you could try setting the idle current at, say, 80% of the idle current. Your motors will be hotter when idle, but should not overheat.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4225,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sean Houlihane,2.528907649931287,4.212248758188748,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.878685800062712,Lack of isolation between axes,\"Sometimes I notice that if I manually command a single axis movement (typically Z, when I want better access to the extruder), I observe that several channels move together (and they maybe move slower than I expect). After one 'coupled' movement, subsequent commands have the result I'm expecting.\n\nWhat happens is as well as the Z-axis moving up, the bed moves forward, and the extruder moves to the right. I have no auto-leveling or anything else non-standard on this printer (dual Z steppers, X, Y, extruder, bed, extruder heat).\n\nIt even happens if I simply extrude some of the time (e.g. changing filament after warming up, retract gave me some X movement)\n\nPrinter is an ANET-A8, I'm using mainly OctoPrint, but I think I've also observed this with other PC software manual controls.\n\nIt doesn't happen often enough for me to have identified any pattern - maybe it only happens if I've not homed first after turning the printer on, but I suspect not.\n\nIt's not so much of a problem, as just a question for interest. Also not sure how to tag.\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"My best guess based on the answers and comments so far is that there is a minor firmware bug and some poorly initialised state. This occurs at start-up, or after a print has finished, but only once (till presumably the idle state is reached again).\n\nSee the image below, captured after the power went off during a print. Heated the extruder, and did Z -10, got this. Both x and Y moved, but in about a 10:1 ratio. The length of the track is about 10mm. Interestingly, during this movement, there was no Z movement.\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5582,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sean Houlihane,1.726248027126092,4.5765092385709,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Do more retracts lead to extruder jams,\"This print failed a couple of hours in. I was wondering if the nature of the print surface, with lots of retracts (similarly the previous print which was OK) might have contributed to the clog, or if it's just bad luck? To be clear, the surface has lots of short dead-end, not just a wiggly perimeter. \n\nThe filament seemed to have stopped moving, and was cut through by the drive gear.\n\nThis was a genuine Titan Aero extruder, 0.4mm nozzle, 215C (on an Anet a8 printer)\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"In addition to the retraction distance, in the case of this model, I was seeing some places where there were a lot of very close retractions. I think these were increasing the risk of damaged filament, so I reduced the 'maximum retraction count' which at 50 over a 5mm length seemed fairly high.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5582,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sean Houlihane,1.726248027126092,4.5765092385709,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Do more retracts lead to extruder jams,\"This print failed a couple of hours in. I was wondering if the nature of the print surface, with lots of retracts (similarly the previous print which was OK) might have contributed to the clog, or if it's just bad luck? To be clear, the surface has lots of short dead-end, not just a wiggly perimeter. \n\nThe filament seemed to have stopped moving, and was cut through by the drive gear.\n\nThis was a genuine Titan Aero extruder, 0.4mm nozzle, 215C (on an Anet a8 printer)\n\",mac,\"Reading your question it's not clear to me if you are referring to filament retraction (which is a configurable setting) or surface recesses which seems what you are referring to when writing:\n\n\n the nature of the print surface, with lots of retracts\n\n\nIf it is the latter, then the answer is \"\"no\"\". The amount of complexity of the surface of the model does not correlate directly to the possibility of the printer head clogging.\n\nIf it is the former, then the answer is \"\"possibly\"\". It is in fact not so much the amount of retracts that affects the likelihood of a clog but rather their speed and lenght. If you retract too quickly and too much filament, you risk to have molten plastic being \"\"sucked\"\" into the cold end, solidify, and act as a glue, blocking the filament in place.\n\nThis is especially true for all-metal print heads like titan aero, as plastic sticks a lot better to metal than to PTFE.\n\nHowever, with a properly calibrated retraction, you shouldn't experience problems regardless of how many times / how often you retract the filament.\n\nIn general, it is a common misconception that retraction should work as a plunger, actively sucking in plastic that would otherwise ooze out of the nozzle. However all you need is to just release the pressure within the melting chamber, and in a direct drive (i.e.: non-bowden) extruder, this requires a very minimal retraction.\n\nFinally: what material are you printing in? The picture shows a lot of oozing for being PLA. If you are using a flexible material like nylon or ninjaflex, you should probably just let retraction alone: the hysteresis in such materials is very high, and retraction often does not work predictably. If it is PLA, I would try to increase the movement and retraction speed, and probably lower the temperature 10 or 15 degrees. As for the retraction lenght, I don't own a titan, but I would expect the correct amount to be somewhere between 0.5mm and 2mm.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n6546,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sean Houlihane,3.0576060275493275,3.5800550457398437,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.880918201452841,When did mass produced FDM printers become available?,\"I know very little about the history of 3D printing, except that SLA came first (in the 1980's?), and FDM development was probably held back by patents.\n\nBy 2016, very low price kit machines were available to hobbyists, in the <€300 price range, as price-reduced clones of designs which had already seen several iterations.\n\nWas this the start of the break-out of cheap FDM machines (as opposed to the >€2000 semi-professional lab budget prototyping class), or were the earlier iterations of these kit machines also suitable/adopted by hobbyists?\n\nI realise that early popularity would grow exponentially, but I'm thinking particularly at what point people could build a printer without needing to compile their own firmware, solder any boards, etc.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"\n By 2016, very low price kit machines were available to hobbyists [..]\n \n Was this the start of the break-out of cheap FDM machines\n\n\nNo, not by any means. The RepRap project started in 2005, and by 2008-2010 there were several open-source printer designs out there that were somewhat workable for hobbyists. These designs were still quite expensive, you needed to source all the components yourself and do a very significant amount of troubleshooting.\n\nHowever, as early as mid-2009 you could buy a Makerbot Cupcake CNC for \\$750 as a kit (which might have involved some soldering) or \\$2500 fully assembled (presumably without soldering, but it's conceivable it was plug-and-play). Makerbot went on to become quite a successful company, piggybacking off the RepRap project and could be viewed as the \"\"break-out\"\" you ask about.\n\nI purchased my first printer kit (no soldering or firmware involved) for \\$500 (plus around \\$150 in shipping and taxes) in February 2014; cheap hobbyist machines were commonplace well before that. \n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n6546,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sean Houlihane,3.0576060275493275,3.5800550457398437,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.880918201452841,When did mass produced FDM printers become available?,\"I know very little about the history of 3D printing, except that SLA came first (in the 1980's?), and FDM development was probably held back by patents.\n\nBy 2016, very low price kit machines were available to hobbyists, in the <€300 price range, as price-reduced clones of designs which had already seen several iterations.\n\nWas this the start of the break-out of cheap FDM machines (as opposed to the >€2000 semi-professional lab budget prototyping class), or were the earlier iterations of these kit machines also suitable/adopted by hobbyists?\n\nI realise that early popularity would grow exponentially, but I'm thinking particularly at what point people could build a printer without needing to compile their own firmware, solder any boards, etc.\n\",Mark Harrison,\"The Makerbot Replicator was released in 2012 and was the first 3D consumer-level printer that was sold only as a complete unit, not a kit. They were also well funded and had a famous Maker-Person as a founder. This seemed to coincide with wide-scale coverage of 3D printing in the media, and a big boom in the DIY side of the movement which is continuing to this day.\n\nThe unit was still expensive by many standards (US$2500), but it did solve the bootstrap problem... you could just buy one at a store, instead of having to have a specific knowledge set in order to build one.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6659,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sean Houlihane,3.267423727073639,4.885139318280063,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.878685800062712,Should I vary the first layer height,\"Up till now, I've tended to scale my first layer according to the print quality, so a .12 first layer for a 0.08mm print, and 0.28mm for a 0.2mm print.\n\nAfter changing to a PLA which isn't sticking well, I'm wondering if the first layer is best determined by the printer/tolerance/material, rather than the overall print quality settings. Am I going to get more predictable results if I stick to a 0.12mm first layer regardless? This is with a 0.4mm nozzle on an Anet-A8.\n\",amra,\"Default settings for first layer height in Slic3r Prusa Edition print profiles regardless layer height is 0.2 mm.\n\nIf you need to improve bed adhesion then try tips from this video 3D Prints not sticking anymore? Watch this! 3DP101 by Maker's Muse. It's about using glue stick and spreading it using paper towel and isopropyl alcohol. \n\nThere are other possibilities how to improve bed adhesion, e.g. Ultem sheet or other printing surface like BuildTak.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6659,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sean Houlihane,3.267423727073639,4.885139318280063,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.878685800062712,Should I vary the first layer height,\"Up till now, I've tended to scale my first layer according to the print quality, so a .12 first layer for a 0.08mm print, and 0.28mm for a 0.2mm print.\n\nAfter changing to a PLA which isn't sticking well, I'm wondering if the first layer is best determined by the printer/tolerance/material, rather than the overall print quality settings. Am I going to get more predictable results if I stick to a 0.12mm first layer regardless? This is with a 0.4mm nozzle on an Anet-A8.\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"The first layer height can be the same as the whole printing model however you can set different sizes and speeds; it is recommended that layer height should be 75 % or less than nozzle diameter, this means that for a nozzle of 0.4 mm the max height is 0.3 mm (if you are a master you can use higher dimensions)\n\nThe first layer with a height of 0.3 mm with a speed of 70 mm/s will have less adhesion than printing at 50 mm/s. Also the same height and speed of 70 mm/s at 210 °C will have more adhesion than at 195 °C. So printing at 195 °C with speed of 50mm/s could have the same adhesion than 70mm/s at 210 °C. This depends on the quality of your PLA\n\nOn my prints I have set the prints at 195 °C and 55 mm/s with a height of 0.20 mm, then the whole print uses the same temperature at 85 mm/s with 0.25 mm of layer height. With other PLA quality I have to set 210 °C first layer at 50 mm/s, and other layers at 200 °C with 70 mm/s. So adjustments are based temperature and speed once you have determined the smoothness of your prints.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6722,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sean Houlihane,3.0576060275493275,4.903905261678989,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.548335113978322,2.3995491493854546,Relation between layer height and bond strength,\"I've seen many references to a FDM print being weakest in the Z axis, due to poor bonding between layers compared to the extruded walls. \n\nThinking about optimising this for a specific material (excluding temperature and geometry), is there an optimum layer height? It seems obvious that too thick a layer will give less compression and maybe less heat transfer into the layer below (so 0.3 with a 0.4mm nozzle might be expected to be a bit weak). Is there a single break point (i.e. less than half the nozzle is good), or are super fine layers either good or bad?\n\nI'm specifically using PLA at the moment, in case different materials have different behaviour in this respect.\n\nI am not asking how to model the strength of layer bonds or how to take that into account when designing a part.\n\",0scar,\"The question is not easy to answer as it would be difficult to give exact print guidelines. This answer from user @typo already shows results of the print height versus the specimen strength (IMHO his answer should be the accepted answer), as taken from this excellent reference at 3DMatter which basically describes the results of a series of experiments. This answer builds upon his answer. In reference to your question, this reference did not optimize the print settings (all specimens are made with the same print settings), so your question is valid.\n\nIt is assumed that you imply in your question that all print parameters that effect the inter-layer bond strength needs to be taken into account for the optimization. Many parameters are in play to bond the filament onto the previous layer, amongst these parameters are e.g.:\n\n\nPrint speed\nFilament temperature\nPrint height\nPrint cooling\n\n\nAll these parameters influence the deposition temperature which in its turn determines the bonding to the previous layer. Not only printer parameters play a role here, but also the properties of the material itself. Between the various brands, and even within a single brand, material variations (e.g. color doping, or different process batches) influence these parameters.\n\nThe question states\n\n\n It seems obvious that too thick a layer will give less compression and maybe less heat transfer into the layer below\n\n\nWell, this is not so obvious and assumes that compression is the main driver for bonding a layer. However, the larger the layer height, the more filament can be deposited at once with a higher heat capacity (stays hot longer), so potentially this could have a positive influence on the bond (higher temperature, better adhesion). \n\nThe print fan cooling parameter could play a very important role here (or even the filament print temperature). In fact, the results of this are already shown by the 3DMatter experiment referenced above. If you keep all print parameters the same except for layer height, the bond strength increases. This implies that in order to get a better bond for low print heights, you should decrease the amount of print-fan cooling flow, or increase the filament print temperature. How much this is should be done in a similar experiment where you lower the cooling air and increase filament print temperature for more specimens (separately) and test again. This is referred to as a design of experiments.\n\nTheoretically, you can make the bond at any layer height just as good provided you optimize the correct parameters. This implies that there is no relation between the print height and the bond strength, it is just a matter of proper setup.\n\nAlso, I would not say that poor bonding strength is the cause of failure in Z direction, as FDM deposits layers in between each layer you will have a lot of potential crack initiation locations, this is usually the starting point of the failure. I have seen prints start the failure between the layers, but not continue to crack along the layers, but traversing through the layers meaning that the bonding strength is not that bad after all.\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6722,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sean Houlihane,3.0576060275493275,4.903905261678989,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.548335113978322,2.3995491493854546,Relation between layer height and bond strength,\"I've seen many references to a FDM print being weakest in the Z axis, due to poor bonding between layers compared to the extruded walls. \n\nThinking about optimising this for a specific material (excluding temperature and geometry), is there an optimum layer height? It seems obvious that too thick a layer will give less compression and maybe less heat transfer into the layer below (so 0.3 with a 0.4mm nozzle might be expected to be a bit weak). Is there a single break point (i.e. less than half the nozzle is good), or are super fine layers either good or bad?\n\nI'm specifically using PLA at the moment, in case different materials have different behaviour in this respect.\n\nI am not asking how to model the strength of layer bonds or how to take that into account when designing a part.\n\",typo,\"My3dmatter.com performed a series of tests with PLA, using \"\"a universal testing machine\"\". They conclude:\n\n\n Layer height influences the strength of a printed part when it becomes\n thin. A printed part at 0.1mm shows a max stress of only 29MPa, as\n opposed to 35MPa for 0.2mm (21% increase).\n \n Past 0.2mm, the max stress remains fairly constant around 36 MPa (we\n confirmed this conclusion with an extra test at 0.4mm, not shown here\n because it was not part of the same batch).\n\n\n\n\nNote: It is recommended to read the full article to comprehend the complexity of the subject matter.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n3070,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Narek,1.726248027126092,5.1221363745424995,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,How can I convert .STL file to .OFF to use in CGAL?,\"I want to skeletize the surface mesh. For that I need to export .STL from Solidworks and then convert that into .OFF file to be able to use it in CGAL library for skeletonzation. How can I do this?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"If you can handle a single intermediate step, you may find that OpenSCAD will perform as required. As a test, I created a cube 10 x 20 x 5 within OpenSCAD. I kept the model simple, hoping the code generated would be short.\n\nThe results:\n\nOFF\n\n\n8 12 0\n\n0 0 5\n\n10 0 5\n\n10 20 5\n\n0 20 0\n\n0 0 0\n\n10 0 0\n\n10 20 0\n\n0 20 5\n\n3 4 5 1\n\n3 0 4 1\n\n3 0 7 4\n\n3 4 7 3\n\n3 0 1 2\n\n3 7 0 2\n\n3 3 6 4\n\n3 4 6 5\n\n3 5 6 2\n\n3 1 5 2\n\n3 7 2 3\n\n3 3 2 6\n\nIn your example, it would be necessary to use the import_stl feature of OpenSCAD, then render the model. Once rendered, use File, Export, Export as OFF to create the file you need. \n\nI cannot provide certainty of the exported code, however, as I am not familiar with the format you seek.\n\nOpenscad\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3070,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Narek,1.726248027126092,5.1221363745424995,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,How can I convert .STL file to .OFF to use in CGAL?,\"I want to skeletize the surface mesh. For that I need to export .STL from Solidworks and then convert that into .OFF file to be able to use it in CGAL library for skeletonzation. How can I do this?\n\",ilke444,\"I would suggest using Meshlab. You can convert from .stl to .off and you can try other operations for quick results too, instead of diving to code for mesh manipulation. \n\",0.0,0.0\n3073,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mtl Dev,3.618048892289167,7.099323780379093,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.859356439026359,Firmware Choice: Marlin vs Repetier vs Other,\"We are custom building a Cartesian 3D printer to be used in a production 3D printing environment, with the following requirements:\n\n\nIntended Z resolution 0.13mm;\nDual extruders (primary + support material);\nFour spools (two per material with y connector, perhaps add auto switch-over functionality later);\nCamera;\nOnboard 11\"\" touchscreen for control & interaction, run by a Raspberry Pi 3;\nCustom board based on ATMega2560 to control the printer; \nPrinter should gracefully handle conditions like \"\"out of material\"\", etc.\n\n\nQuestion: How to select firmware? \n\nAre there notable differences between the primary firmware options (Marlin/Repetier) for this setup? From the google code groups, I understand the Repetier has a much cleaner code base, and apparently gives smoother physical performance. Yet, from what I can gather, 95% of the community uses Marlin - is that correct?\n\nGiven that this printer will have the Pi3 to control \"\"higher functions\"\", is it worth considering a compact firmware like Teacup?\n\nEdit 12/April/2017:\n\nFor others looking: After much review, Klipper was selected as the most forward firmware - all kinematic calculations are done on the host computer, instead of on the microprocessor, resulting is significantly faster/smoother stepper movement.\n\",Hong,\"Your choice of firmware depends on a lot of factors, but to name a few important ones: features, your driver board (RAMPS vs Sanguinololu vs Gen..etc), and G-code support.\n\nSmooth/quiet operation is dependent on the motors and the driver chip's micro-stepping capabilities. The way the firmware interfaces with the driver chip plays a very minor factor in that.\n\nCheck this page for a list of firmware, their capabilities and compatible electronics (driver board):\n\nhttp://www.reprap.org/wiki/List_of_Firmware\n\nWould be useful to check G-code support of various firmwares also:\n\nhttp://reprap.org/wiki/G-code\n\nAlso, as a note, a lot of the community uses Marlin, but for a lot of the commercial printers, the code has been modified slightly to fit their needs. \n\nThere is no perfect answer to this. Check the links and compare against your needs. Marlin is the safest bet since it has the most support, though you may need to modify or reconfigure it slightly for your custom board.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n3073,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mtl Dev,3.618048892289167,7.099323780379093,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.859356439026359,Firmware Choice: Marlin vs Repetier vs Other,\"We are custom building a Cartesian 3D printer to be used in a production 3D printing environment, with the following requirements:\n\n\nIntended Z resolution 0.13mm;\nDual extruders (primary + support material);\nFour spools (two per material with y connector, perhaps add auto switch-over functionality later);\nCamera;\nOnboard 11\"\" touchscreen for control & interaction, run by a Raspberry Pi 3;\nCustom board based on ATMega2560 to control the printer; \nPrinter should gracefully handle conditions like \"\"out of material\"\", etc.\n\n\nQuestion: How to select firmware? \n\nAre there notable differences between the primary firmware options (Marlin/Repetier) for this setup? From the google code groups, I understand the Repetier has a much cleaner code base, and apparently gives smoother physical performance. Yet, from what I can gather, 95% of the community uses Marlin - is that correct?\n\nGiven that this printer will have the Pi3 to control \"\"higher functions\"\", is it worth considering a compact firmware like Teacup?\n\nEdit 12/April/2017:\n\nFor others looking: After much review, Klipper was selected as the most forward firmware - all kinematic calculations are done on the host computer, instead of on the microprocessor, resulting is significantly faster/smoother stepper movement.\n\",mogul,\"\n Given that this printer will have the Pi3 to control \"\"higher functions\"\", is it worth considering a compact firmware like Teacup?\n\n\nA few days ago I came across klipper.\n\nIt seems to do exactly that functionality split you mention\n\",3.0411126502294303,0.0\n3112,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mtl Dev,2.528907649931287,6.184436898370866,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.488653845767225,How to directly send G-code to printer from a Linux terminal?,\"Should it be possible to directly send G-code to the printer serial connection using pipes under Linux?\n\nExample:\n\necho M106 > /dev/ttyUSB0\n\n\nMy controller runs at 250000 baud, I have tried setting the TTY baud rate to 250 kBd with: \n\nstty -F /dev/ttyUSB0 250000\n\n\nBut, unfortunately, this particular baud rate appears to be unsupported under Ubuntu, giving the error: \n\nstty: invalid argument ‘250000’\n\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"This forum page strongly suggests you should be using setserial for a port, not stty , which is for terminals. I'd give the code snippets there a try.\nAlternatively, stackoverflow has a similar discussion, with somewhat more complicated modifications.\n\nAre you sure you can't talk with your printer at a lower baud rate than the maximum capability of the printer-end? \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3112,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mtl Dev,2.528907649931287,6.184436898370866,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.488653845767225,How to directly send G-code to printer from a Linux terminal?,\"Should it be possible to directly send G-code to the printer serial connection using pipes under Linux?\n\nExample:\n\necho M106 > /dev/ttyUSB0\n\n\nMy controller runs at 250000 baud, I have tried setting the TTY baud rate to 250 kBd with: \n\nstty -F /dev/ttyUSB0 250000\n\n\nBut, unfortunately, this particular baud rate appears to be unsupported under Ubuntu, giving the error: \n\nstty: invalid argument ‘250000’\n\n\",Mtl Dev,\"For direct low-level printer control from a terminal, without specific software, I found the following solution with full credit thanks to user: http://stackexchange.com/users/6463673/meuh\n\nSharing here as may be of use to other users in the 3d Printing community, and I was unable to source a \"\"complete\"\" solution to this elsewhere.\n\n\n\nStep 1)\nCreate a custom python script that allows you to set arbitrary baud rates (make executable with chmod u+x).\n\n#!/usr/bin/python\n# set nonstandard baudrate. Original Question: http://unix.stackexchange.com/a/327366/119298\nimport sys,array,fcntl\n\n# from /usr/lib/python2.7/site-packages/serial/serialposix.py\n# /usr/include/asm-generic/termbits.h for struct termios2\n# [2]c_cflag [9]c_ispeed [10]c_ospeed\ndef set_special_baudrate(fd, baudrate):\n TCGETS2 = 0x802C542A\n TCSETS2 = 0x402C542B\n BOTHER = 0o010000\n CBAUD = 0o010017\n buf = array.array('i', [0] * 64) # is 44 really\n fcntl.ioctl(fd, TCGETS2, buf)\n buf[2] &= ~CBAUD\n buf[2] |= BOTHER\n buf[9] = buf[10] = baudrate\n assert(fcntl.ioctl(fd, TCSETS2, buf)==0)\n fcntl.ioctl(fd, TCGETS2, buf)\n if buf[9]!=baudrate or buf[10]!=baudrate:\n print(\"\"failed. speed is %d %d\"\" % (buf[9],buf[10]))\n sys.exit(1)\n\nset_special_baudrate(0, int(sys.argv[1]))\n\n\n\n\nStep 2) Run the script to set your baud rate.\n./set_custom_baud_rate.py <> /dev/ttyUSB0 250000\n\n\n\nStep 3) You can now monitor your printer output in a terminal window simply with:\n tail -f /dev/ttyUSB0\n\n\n\nStep 4) And finally, open up a new terminal window, and you can directly send M or Gcode to your printer; example:\necho \"\"M115\"\" >> /dev/ttyUSB0\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n3118,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mtl Dev,3.767809650974757,4.845989387428882,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.929104701733314,4.410384278773418,What is the purpose of asterix (*) in Gcode?,\"Doing some low level monitoring, the following sequence is sent to the printer:\n\nN0 M106*36 \nN1 G28*18 \nN2 M107*39\n\n\nThis sequence just turns the fan on, homes the printer, then turns the fan off.\n\nQuestion: What is the purpose of the asterix/star/(*) and the two succeeding digits on each line?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"That is a checksum. It's added by the host software to the G-code, to allow some basic verification by the firmware that the G-code was transmitted unchanged. It doesn't change the meaning of the G-code, and what your sequence actually represents is just M106, G28, M107. The N0,N1,N2,... are line numbers, and the combination of line numbers and checksums is used to request a re-send of any lines that were corrupted during transmission.\n\",3.367452517504837,2.0769199823829045\n3383,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mtl Dev,2.528907649931287,4.340407636085326,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,\"Marlin, end stops, and position report - possible bug?\",\"Am seeing the following behavior in Marlin:\n\nWhen moving the printhead, if an end stop is hit, a position report (M114) erroneously reports the print head position as where it was trying to go, as opposed to where it's position actually is.\n\nFor example (using pronsole):\n\n> M114\nX:1.00 Y:1.00 Z:1.00 E:0.00 Count A: 142 B:0 Z:1260 \n> G0 Z100\nendstops hit: Z:16.88\n> M114\nX:1.00 Y:1.00 Z:100.00 E:0.00 Count A: 142 B:0 Z:21263\n\n\nIn this example, the Z endstop was hit at (z:16.88), but the printer appears to think it is at the target location (z:100). \n\nThe \"\"Count\"\" Z appears to remain accurate however.\n\nQuestion: Is this a bug in Marlin, or is this correct behavior and I am misunderstanding something?\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"Some info on the subject: few stepper motors have any way of knowing their exact position during operation, which means Marlin will have to assume the steppers always are in the right place. \n\nIn other words, all g-code commands are executed relative to their current position, not with regards to the real positions. So if you forcefully move the printhead during print, the printer will just continue printing the same patterns in mid-air (this is basically what is called layer shifting).\n\nThe only way the printer can know the real position of the steppers is when the endpoint switches are triggered. This is why the homing action is done to before prints in order to reset the internal positional bookkeeping of the steppers in Marlin. So if the endpoints are triggered without the printer actually being at the endstops, you will seriously confuse Marlin.\n\nI agree that is sounds weird that Marlin does not reset the positions of it's steppers when an endstop is triggered (during print?), but then again, if it happens accidentally (and not as part of a re-calibration procedure), I believe the default actions should be to abort all operation since this would indicate the printer being out of control. Perhaps there simply is no routine to handle movement after the program has been aborted - a situation where probably nothing would be right anyway..\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n3585,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mtl Dev,1.0891412423578797,5.001346509629401,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Marlin: possible to set ZMin limit when ZProbing?,\"Question: Can a \"\"ZMin-while-probing\"\" be set? \nMeaning a minimum Z height the printer bed can move to, while Z Probing. \n\nPurpose: For safety reasons should the probe switch not fire for some reason.\n\n--\n\nin Marlin Configuration.h, I see you can set the height of the Z Axis before deploying the ZProbe:\n\n#define Z_PROBE_DEPLOY_HEIGHT 35\n\nIn the context of this question, this is effectively a \"\"ZMax-while-probing\"\", i.e the lowest possible the print bed will be before Z Probing commences.\n\nI am looking for a \"\"ZMin-while-probing\"\" equivalent. The reason for this is just an added safety check - I know that if the probe switch doesn't fire by Z<=25, then it is not going to, and with this particular printer configuration, that would result in the Z Probe being driven into the printer bed.\n\nDoes a setting already exist to create a sanity-check here?\n\",Dave Johnson,\"You have not stated the version of Marlin you are using. I will assume we are discussing the latest Marlin 1.1 RC8.\n\nThere is no longer any Z_PROBE_DEPLOY_HEIGHT but in earlier Marlin versions it did not function as you think; it was used to signify the amount of Z travel to execute prior to Z probe deployement. This is to ensure available space for servo-mounted, sled, or other types of \"\"stowed\"\" probes. This was not a limit to the Z travel, but the amount of Z travel to always execute before begining homing. If a printer without Z_MAX_ENDSTOP is left at maximum travel position, using non-zero Z_PROBE_DEPLOY_HEIGHT could crash a bot into the Z maximum end position.\n\nIn these previous versions of Marlin, the homing height was computed by a combination of the above constant adding and subtracting to/from some others, which has since been replaced by the simpler and singular Z_HOMEING_HEIGHT (which works indpendant from the new Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE):\n\n//#define Z_HOMING_HEIGHT 4 // (in mm) Minimal z height before homing\n(G28) for Z clearance above the bed, clamps, ...\n\n#define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE 10 // Z Clearance for Deploy/Stow\n\n\nThe absolute value of the maximum bed positions are used in Marlin as sanity check to ensure no axis moves greater than this amount in one movement in either positive or negative direction:\n\n#define Z_MAX_POS 200\n\n\nIf your probe does not function correctly, no ficticious Z_MIN_WHILE_PROBING will prevent a faulty probe from causing a head crash into the bed, so it is not implemented, allowing the Z_MAX_POS sanity check to prevent the Z axis stepper from continuing to run indefinitely during a fauly probe condition.\n\nIf your Z_MIN_WHILE_PROBING were implemented, if the printer were powered off (or Marlin crashed, etc) with the head at any Z distance greater than Z_MIN_WHILE_PROBING there would be no mechanism to begin a print on the next poweron, since Marlin will never move in the negative Z axis except during G28 probing and after probing completes successfully. The only way to recover in this case would be for someone to continually attempt to both home the printer then power-cycle, moving the head Z_MIN_WHILE_PROBING closer to the bed each iteration. This would be an unacceptable user exerience.\n\nFurther, if Z_MIN_WHILE_PROBING were implemented, the only percieved safety measure it would add is that during probe failure, the Z stepper would crash into the bed and continue to run for only Z_MIN_WHILE_PROBING stepper rotations instead of Z_MAX_POS rotations. Regardless, the bed would be impacted so there is hardly any additonal safety added and a stepper driver should not overheat or cause any more damage (other than what was already done to the bed) in a single Z_MAX_POS length of rotations.\n\nFor more piece of mind during homing, you may use the Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP feature with a normally-closed limit switch wired to an available pin on your control board:\n\n// Enable Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP to use _both_ a Z Probe and a Z-min-endstop on the same machine.\n// With this option the Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN will only be used for probing, never for homing.\n//\n//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP\n\n\nThen use the Z_MIN_WHILE_PROBING feature to move the head above the Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP home position to perform probing. This will ensure that the printer will crash for only Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER Z stepper rotations if the probe malfunctions:\n\n#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]\n\n\nIn summary, to prevent the head from crashing into the bed, you must ensure your Z probe is functioning correctly :)\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3586,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mtl Dev,2.8153892694839717,5.086627540705304,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Adding custom M Codes to Marlin,\"If I wanted to add my own custom M Codes in Marlin - in which source code file would I do that? \n\",Aaron Cofield,\"In the file Marlin_main.cpp on line 7131 there is a switch case:\n\n(To turn on line numbers go to File>Preferences and click Display line numbers.)\n\ncase 'M': switch (codenum) {\n #if ENABLED(ULTIPANEL)\n case 0: // M0 - Unconditional stop - Wait for user button press on LCD\n case 1: // M1 - Conditional stop - Wait for user button press on LCD\n gcode_M0_M1();\n break;\n #endif // ULTIPANEL\n\n case 17:\n gcode_M17();\n break;\n etc.....\n\n\nAdding another case with an unused number such as 5 and then the code you want followed by a break should do the trick. Ex:\n\ncase 5:\n doABunchofCoolStuff();\n myservo.write(thebestposition);\n break;\n\n\n-AC\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n3075,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BlueCloud,2.8153892694839717,3.7127158133162173,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,How can I learn to create models for 3d printing?,\"I've recently bought a 3d printer and waiting for it to be delivered I've given quite a lot of time to looking things up on thingiverse. I see people create incredible models with gears, screws, lids and a lot of very cool and functional connectors (there are some project for boxes with an iris tipe lid that can be printed already assembled as a single model). I'd like to learn to do some of that as well. At the moment I have some proficiency with Blender where I can navigate the interface and sketch up some simple shaped model without any of the functional parts described above. My question therefore is: \n\nAre there any tutorials that could help me create better models? If I need to I'm ready to learn to use a software other than Blender. I've tried searching for a similar question but found nothing.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"The answer to your question is yes, there are tutorials to help you create better models. Unfortunately, the back-story to the answer is beyond the scope of StackExchange.\n\nDon't limit yourself to Blender, especially if you are attempting to create non-organic (engineering-type) models. Blender is great for curves and bulges and bumps (and animation, and so much else) but not so great for parametric modeling. Meshmixer is a useful program, but more organic than engineering.\n\nConsider to search for OpenSCAD, Fusion 360, TinkerCAD, but also use terms such as \"\"parametric 3d modeling software\"\" to find a wider range of solutions to your quest. The above programs are free, there are too many paid programs to list even a small number.\n\nOh, yeah, stay away from SketchUp for any 3d print modeling. So many failure modes result from models created with that program.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n3075,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BlueCloud,2.8153892694839717,3.7127158133162173,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,How can I learn to create models for 3d printing?,\"I've recently bought a 3d printer and waiting for it to be delivered I've given quite a lot of time to looking things up on thingiverse. I see people create incredible models with gears, screws, lids and a lot of very cool and functional connectors (there are some project for boxes with an iris tipe lid that can be printed already assembled as a single model). I'd like to learn to do some of that as well. At the moment I have some proficiency with Blender where I can navigate the interface and sketch up some simple shaped model without any of the functional parts described above. My question therefore is: \n\nAre there any tutorials that could help me create better models? If I need to I'm ready to learn to use a software other than Blender. I've tried searching for a similar question but found nothing.\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"I think rather than looking for a tutorial at this stage, it might be instructive to watch some videos on tuning and calibration (since these touch on what is difficult). Also download Cura (or some other slicer of your choice) and look into how your existing models would be printed layer by layer. Cura has a layer slider so you can step through the design.\n\nSo, to make an attempt at answering what I think could be a good question, things to research whilst waiting for your printer are:\n\n\nPrint failure examples and calibration; \nParametric 3D modelling packages;\nSlicer operation (this ties in with calibration).\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3079,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Stenem,1.0891412423578797,3.5726960728578114,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Not printing... wrong settings?,\"My printer is not printing.\n\nI already had my first print but now it won't print. I think it has something to do with the settings (it's not heating up).\n\nI am using Cura.\n\nI load up the program and then save the file to an SD card and then put it in the 3D Printer.\n\nHow can I setup the program so that the printer's heatbed heats up?\n\n\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"I wonder if there is a glitch in the firmware producing this unexpected result (which I think I also observed).\n\nIf you navigate to quick settings you should find preheat pla. Selecting this has little obvious effect (except for fan speed droop as the heater kicks in), but the target temps will now be 190C / 60C.\n\nPrint File seems to wait for the pre-heat to have reached a threshold before starting to run.\n\",0.0,0.0\n3084,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Spehro Pefhany,3.0576060275493275,3.951975367305921,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,What causes the print heat to 'catch' on the part?,\"What would cause this effect, and how can it be avoided? \n\nThis is a PLA print, and it should look like this. I tried 215 and 225°C and both had the same effect. An earlier similar print at 220°C was not as bad but it still had some catching- it seems hit and miss and not strongly related to extrusion temperature. \n\nOutside: \n\n\n\nInside: \n\n\n\nI'm using a QIDI dual extruder printer with Makerware 2.2.2.89 software and these parameters: \n\n\n\n\n\nSpeed is 60/80mm/s. \n\",tbm0115,\"I think that you should first verify that you have the latest firmware and a newer version of MakerWare. I experienced similar issues around that version of MakerWare and remember a lot of print errors came with it.\n\nI believe the MakerBot Dual firmware is somewhere around 7.? and is no longer in development.\n\nMakerWare is also no longer in development as a standalone application and seems to have been ported over to the MakerBot Desktop. However I've personally found v2.4.1 to be substantially more stable than v2.2.\n\nI have not tested it, but supposedly the new MakerBot Desktop (v3.10) is compatible with the Replicator Dual \"\"Original\"\". I had tried an earlier version of MakerBot Desktop and reverted back to MakerWare 2.4 because I ran into issues with connectivity. However, I'm not certain it was an issue with software so much as the exploding voltage regulator...\n\nIt might be best to give the new software a shot and/or try v2.4 of MakerWare, if you can find it.\n\nHere's the link to the latest MakerBot Desktop\n\nHere's the release notes for MakerWare/MakerBot Desktop v1.0-latest (v3.10+)\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n3084,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Spehro Pefhany,3.0576060275493275,3.951975367305921,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,What causes the print heat to 'catch' on the part?,\"What would cause this effect, and how can it be avoided? \n\nThis is a PLA print, and it should look like this. I tried 215 and 225°C and both had the same effect. An earlier similar print at 220°C was not as bad but it still had some catching- it seems hit and miss and not strongly related to extrusion temperature. \n\nOutside: \n\n\n\nInside: \n\n\n\nI'm using a QIDI dual extruder printer with Makerware 2.2.2.89 software and these parameters: \n\n\n\n\n\nSpeed is 60/80mm/s. \n\",Tormod Haugene,\"As pointed out in the comments, what you are seeing could very well be related to lack of cooling: \n\nYou may notice that the irregularity in the print become more and more pronounced the further up you see. I believe this happens because the area that is printed is reduced gradually closer to the top, which in turn will give each printed layer less time to cool. (The frequent revisits of the hot nozzle will not allow the top layer to cool naturally.)\n\nThis problem is very common when printing models with small cross-sections, and are typically solved by:\n\n\nInstalling additional print cooling fans (cooling the actual print, not the hotend/heat sink)\nPrinting several items at the same time (to increase the cross-section)\nReducing print speed (gives more time to cool, but might not work for very small models)\nReduce printing temperature\n\n\nIf you can, installing additional fans and/or printing multiple objects at the same time are probably the most efficient solutions - in my opinion. However, either method would be worth exploring. \n\nPS: When printing PLA, set your fans to full. ABS, on the other hand, does not like cooling.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3094,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user5019,2.1782824847157594,3.7536737190535523,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,How to build this part using 3d printing,\"I am completely new to 3D printing. I need to build a calibration plate, which I was told can be built using vero back plastic and a 3d printer. But I am afraid I need to know more if I give this to someone for fabrication. In particular, I am wondering how to get the white dots on the surfaces. My question is probably ill-posed, but I am trying to get as much info as I can before I consult any 3d printing vendors. Thanks\n\n\n\",fred_dot_u,\"The photo is too small to be clear about the entire objective and there are no dimensions provided. A quick google search returns nothing 3d printer related to \"\"black vera plastics\"\" other than a reference to vera bradley, vera wang and an obscure reference to a woven black carpet with white spots of increasing size. \n\nEven within those limitations, one can certainly print a strip of black with white dots. One method involves a dual extruder printer, enabling two colors to be printed, one layer at a time. The black layer would be extruded with suitable holes and the white layer would be place within those holes.\n\nAnother method involves printing the black layer with holes, swapping out the filament with white and creating white plugs of appropriate sizes for the necessary fit.\n\nYou've used the term calibration plate, which implies some level of precision. Is the precision related to spacing, dot size, dot color, or a combination of the above?\n\nSuch requirements may make the cost slightly higher, but not excessively. I can print up to to 290 mm long strip, possibly longer by going diagonal on my 290 mm print bed, with or without the two colors done simultaneously.\n\nIf you require crisp edges to the white/black transition, the holes-and-plugs method will give best results and require a bit of post processing. It may be necessary to ream the holes to correct diameter and sand the plugs to fit. Dual extrusion rarely provides sharp delineation from one color to the next.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n3094,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user5019,2.1782824847157594,3.7536737190535523,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,How to build this part using 3d printing,\"I am completely new to 3D printing. I need to build a calibration plate, which I was told can be built using vero back plastic and a 3d printer. But I am afraid I need to know more if I give this to someone for fabrication. In particular, I am wondering how to get the white dots on the surfaces. My question is probably ill-posed, but I am trying to get as much info as I can before I consult any 3d printing vendors. Thanks\n\n\n\",Golightly,\"What are the characteristics of the white dots? (That is, are the dots small raised bumps, do they denote where a hole will be drilled, are they integral to a piece-to-piece connection, etc...) \n\nIf these are small bumps that need to be added to the top of the black surfaces, your most time-effective solution is probably print the black component first (with placement references for where the white dots are to go), then switch materials and print the dots, and attach them to the black component.\n\nOtherwise, you'll need a machine capable of printing in two materials simultaneously(ish). See some of the newer Stratasys machines if you have a good budget ha!\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3101,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,IT Tsoi,3.0576060275493275,4.074268075559351,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Recommended settings for ColorFabb Copperfill Filaments on a 0.25 mm Nozzle?,\"I switched out my 0.4 mm Ultimaker 2+ Nozzle the other day for the 0.25 mm and started using a ColorFabb Copperfill 2.85 mm filament. I am having some issues with it clogging and sticking to the bed for larger prints:\n\n\n\nCurrent settings are:\n\n\nExtruder Temp: 230°C\nFlow Rate: 110% (increased it from 108% get more consistent output)\nBed Temperature: 70°C\n\n\nI thought it might be a calibration issue since I could see it skipping certain sections and slowly collecting excess material on the outer nozzle, so I recalibrated the bed but I still ended up with a blocked nozzle after about two hours of running. Not too sure if there are other settings I need to take care of. Any suggestions would be great!\n\",darth pixel,\"It looks like a problem with feeding filament. It could be good to know if you did try such big printouts before but even if - from your picture it looks like on far end there is too less filament but on near end it's too much of it (because of 110%). And near the big circle it looks better even on far end. And there are \"\"waves\"\" close to big circle.\n\nHow is that possible?\nAssuming that your extruder works well it might be caused by bending bowden tube. If your filament is not slick enough - in some settings (positions/arrangements) of bowden it might create enough friction so it doesn't flow with proper rate. It might be also caused if your bowden tube was bent too much (broken).\n\nTo be sure please try to print 4 smaller (5 cm in diam) circles on bed's corners and the one in the center. Just one layer of course.\n\nHow to fix the issue?\nIn my opinion you could try to slow down whole printout. Try to print such big circle with 30% of regular speed. I'm pretty sure you'll get proper results.\n\nTry to check if filament goes smoothly thought the tube. Check if it has proper inner diameter. You can try to clean up a tube inside if it's not perfect clean or change a tube to new one. I know it was probably ok for recent filaments but maybe this one is more \"\"demanding\"\" ;)\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n3107,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,beater,3.618048892289167,4.46558598972673,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,One corner never sticks,\"I am new to 3D printing. I thought that the black surface of my print bed was supposed to keep things stuck without additional tape, spray, etc. However, every time I print something, this same corner, and only this corner, detaches. \n\nAny advice on how to fix this?\n\n\nMonoprice Makerselect V2\nHatchbox PLA \nTemp 195/50\n\n\n\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"This is very likely caused by an uneven bed. It's probably lower in that particular corner: the nozzle is further from the bed, so the filament isn't squished down as much and therefore releases more easily from the bed.\n\nYour bed should have 3 or 4 screws that you can adjust, you should loosen the screw in the corner that is giving you trouble.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n3109,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,term,1.726248027126092,3.4603828048255023,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How to build my own Cura GUI?,\"I am trying to create my own Cura GUI. I am constantly getting the error:\n\nUM module not found.\n\n\nDo I need to see a UI file?\n\nI think I am wrong.\n\nI've installed Python, pyqt5, numpy, scipy, but I do not understand why the constant UM module was not found.\n\nI know I'm doing it wrong somewhere but I can not find my mistake.\n\nI believe there are people who will help me. There are people who know how to do it. Will you help me? What am I supposed to do?\n\",Greenonline,\"UM could stand for UltiMaker. I think that you need to either:\n\n\ndownload Uranium;\ninstall the UM package;\nimport the UM package, or;\nneed to add it to your path (PYTHONPATH).\n\n\nYou may find your answer here: help needed: ImportError: \"\"No Module named UM\"\" in Eclipse #510.\n\nThe two things that you seem to need to do are:\n\n\nGet Uranium from https://github.com/Ultimaker/Uranium.\nAdd the path: PYTHONPATH=/path/to/uranium/repo cura_app.py\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3119,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Eugene,2.8153892694839717,4.103839191415227,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.8746593652159236,1.9376260060201658,\"3D printing and coating of heat-resistant objects, such as a turbine blisks or blades\",\"Is it possible to 3D print an axial turbine 2 - 4 inches (50 - 100 mm) in radius, capable withstanding temperatures about 800 - 1000°C and rotation speeds of 100 - 120 x 103 rpm?\n\nHow expensive is that? Is it cheaper to mill such a turbine from a whole piece of alloy?\n\nWhat technologies and materials should be used?\n\nAre Inconel alloys suitable for 3D printing?\n\nAre there any titanium alloys suitable for this task? I've read titanium is rarely used in rapidly rotating parts due to its ability to ignite if mechanical failure occurs and rotating blades touch the casing. Do titanium alloys still have this drawback? \n\nIs it possible to make disk of titanium and blades of Inconel, and have them welded (considering heat expansion)?\n\nHow blades or blisks can be ceramically coated?\n\nThank you!\n\",tbm0115,\"Some companies are already on the move with this idea. I think I remember hearing that Pratt and Whitney and Boeing are 3D printing some of the smaller air foils.\n\nThe advantages being that they can achieve manufacturing of more complex, more efficient parts without the hassle of quality control, expensive fixturing/maintenance, and less hands on their proprietary parts and processes.\n\nMost often, a metal alloy part is \"\"printed\"\" using SLA or SLS (commonly), but it's more or less just bonded. Bonding is either done via laser sintering or some form of epoxy for these types of printing processes. The part is pretty much useless for aerospace purposes at this point because you can just break it apart with your hands, as it is very brittle.\n\nOnce the metal is bonded in the desired shape, it goes in a furnace to either solidify the sintered material or the epoxy is replaced with another metal such as bronze or nickel. Also during this operation, the part is heat treated to receive the desired material structure. The changes to the material during this process can help set its strength and heat resistance.\n\nA quick Google search on \"\"Inconel 3D Printing\"\" yields a couple companies that can 3D print \"\"exotic\"\" metals such as titanium and inconel. Chances are if a 3D printer can process inconel, it can print most other aerospace materials.\n\n3D printing exotic materials, at this point, is really just gluing sand and baking it in the oven.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3119,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Eugene,2.8153892694839717,4.103839191415227,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.8746593652159236,1.9376260060201658,\"3D printing and coating of heat-resistant objects, such as a turbine blisks or blades\",\"Is it possible to 3D print an axial turbine 2 - 4 inches (50 - 100 mm) in radius, capable withstanding temperatures about 800 - 1000°C and rotation speeds of 100 - 120 x 103 rpm?\n\nHow expensive is that? Is it cheaper to mill such a turbine from a whole piece of alloy?\n\nWhat technologies and materials should be used?\n\nAre Inconel alloys suitable for 3D printing?\n\nAre there any titanium alloys suitable for this task? I've read titanium is rarely used in rapidly rotating parts due to its ability to ignite if mechanical failure occurs and rotating blades touch the casing. Do titanium alloys still have this drawback? \n\nIs it possible to make disk of titanium and blades of Inconel, and have them welded (considering heat expansion)?\n\nHow blades or blisks can be ceramically coated?\n\nThank you!\n\",samcs640,\"You ask some very interesting questions! Firstly, when researching topics such as this, you will have far more luck using 'additive manufacturing' as a search term rather than '3D printing'. In the professional industrial environment, '3D printing' is not a term that is really used to describe the manufacturing you are talking about.\n\nSelective laser melting is the additive manufacturing process most suited to metallic aerospace parts. Inconel alloys can be processed (e.g. IN718 being one of the easiest) along with titanium (almost exclusively Ti6Al4V). As for manufacturing turbine blades and similar parts, you might find this interesting: Additive Manufacturing - Breakthrough with 3D printed Gas Turbine Blades.\n\nTitanium is not typically used in high-temperature sections of gas turbines, but will be used in larger, cooler components such as fan blades, where it's strength to weigh ratio is a benefit (less mass to rotate = better fuel efficiency).\n\nCoating of high-temperature nickel superalloy components is usually performed with electron beam physical vapor deposition (EBPVD) or thermal spray such as high-velocity oxy-fuel (HVOF); each process has certain characteristics that dictate when/where is it used. \n\nThis is only really a surface depth answer to your questions, but it would be impossible to answer fully here!\n\n(My experience: PhD student using selective laser melting with aerospace alloys)\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3134,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Poliakoff,3.618048892289167,6.242334712876573,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,\"Extruder stepper motor problem, what can be wrong?\",\"I bought a self-made Reprap Prusa Mendel 3 printer, modified to be built from cheaper materials, and immediately after the deal I got various problems. I fixed the majority of them, but don't know what the reason of the strange extruder behavior is: The stepper motor is not rotating while extruding filament, it's moving back and forth with small steps instead. I made some footage, Reprap Prusa Mendel 3d printer extruder problem, hoping that someone has met a similar problem before.\n\nIf so, please tell me what to do to make it work as it should.\n\nThe obvious option while encountering this problem was to slacken the bolt which holds this parts together (in the left bottom corner of the video), but that did not help.\n\nAny ideas are very welcomed. Thanks for your time. I hope this is an appropriate kind of question here.\n\",Spehro Pefhany,\"If the stepper never turns, even with no filament loaded, it is more likely to be a bad connection to one of the two coils or a bad stepper driver, or a bad motor. \n\nSeems to be a frequent enough problem that they supplied a spare driver with my machine. \n\nPerhaps you can try swapping drivers to see if the problem follows the driver. You can disconnect the motor with power off and measure the coil resistances with a multimeter to see if they are sensible, which will weed out a bad harness, connector or motor. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3134,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Poliakoff,3.618048892289167,6.242334712876573,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,\"Extruder stepper motor problem, what can be wrong?\",\"I bought a self-made Reprap Prusa Mendel 3 printer, modified to be built from cheaper materials, and immediately after the deal I got various problems. I fixed the majority of them, but don't know what the reason of the strange extruder behavior is: The stepper motor is not rotating while extruding filament, it's moving back and forth with small steps instead. I made some footage, Reprap Prusa Mendel 3d printer extruder problem, hoping that someone has met a similar problem before.\n\nIf so, please tell me what to do to make it work as it should.\n\nThe obvious option while encountering this problem was to slacken the bolt which holds this parts together (in the left bottom corner of the video), but that did not help.\n\nAny ideas are very welcomed. Thanks for your time. I hope this is an appropriate kind of question here.\n\",Greenonline,\"Your controller board probably requires calibration.\n\nIt sounds like, maybe, the extruder's stepper motor is not receiving sufficient current, to make it turn. Or, somewhat confusingly, maybe the stepper is receiving too much current, and overheating.\n\nYou don't say which controller board you are using, but regardless, there should be an adjustable potentiometer on the board, next to each of the stepper drivers, or on the stepper driver daughter boards. Like so,\n\n\n\nThis potentiomenter adjusts the reference voltage used to control the stepper motor. From this reference voltage, and the resistance of the stepper coils, one can determine the current, which is used to drive the stepper motor.\n\nFor the stepper driver of the extruder, you could try turning this adjustable potentiometer slightly, in order to provide more current to the stepper, in turn to provide sufficient torque such that the motor is able to turn. Or, less current to stop the stepper from overheating.\n\nThe adjustments can be made whilst the power is on, but a non-ferrous (i..e. plastic) screw driver should be used, so as to avoid short circuits. Also care needs to be taken, when turning the potentiometer, as they have been known to just fall apart whilst being turned. If you are paranoid, then make micro adjustments with the power turned off, and then turn back on to check the behaviour. \n\nNote: it should go without saying that one should never disconnect a stepper whilst the power is on, as both the driver and the stepper motor may be irrevocably damaged.\n\n\n\nThe photo above is taken from POTs Calibration – RAMPS 1.4.\n\n\n If a POT is set too high then the associated stepper driver will tend to overheat and go into over-temperature thermal shutdown (to prevent damage to its components). The first sign of overheating is erratic stepper motor behavior. Typically, this can be recognized by the sounds of the stepper motor suddenly losing power (thermal shutdown). If no load or movement is required of the motor, it is hard to detect whether it is over-powered as the driver is barely producing any heat. \n\n\nand\n\n\n Conversely, if the POT is set too low, the stepper motor can enter an underpowered state. This can be recognized by a lack of holding torque and a stepper motor that is skipping steps because the necessary movement requires a higher power demand than the POT setting allows for.\n\n\n\n\nDriver cooling\n\nIn addition to the possibility of the stepper motor over heating, it could be possible that the stepper driver is overheating, although the symptoms may be different, to those that you are experiencing. Regardless, you may still find it advantageous to cooler the controller/driver board with a fan that is always on (not temperature controlled).\n\nAdditional reading\n\n\nRigidWiki - Stepper Driver Adjustment, which goes into further detail about the adjustment of the potentiometers, that I outlined above, as well as the reference voltage and the adjustment thereof. \nRepRap Wiki - RepRapPro Setting Motor Currents describes a different controller to yours, but goes into the process of adjustment, and description of the reference voltage (which is applicable to all boards):\n\n\n\n The wiper on each potentiometer generates a DC voltage that is sent to the chip. This is the reference voltage; it defines how much current the stepping motor driver chip supplies to the motor. The bigger the reference voltage (VREF), the higher the current (A) that the chip will send to the motor. For most NEMA14 motors, the current maximum is 1A, but this will generally cause it to get warm, so a setting of 750mA is recommended. For NEMA17 motors, depending on size, the limit on current is generally between 1.3A and 1.7A. If you drive stepper motors with more current than they were designed for, the motor will get hot, and may be damaged.\n\n\n\nPololu - A4988 Stepper Motor Driver Carrier with Voltage Regulators - this is a very common stepper driver. \nMyHomeFab - DRV8825 Adjust Stepper Current goes into the adjustment of the reference voltage, for the commonly used DRV8825, which is an alternative to the popular A4988.\nThis thread, about non-actuating steppers, may also be useful, Motors, which mentions setting the trimpots and points the OP to RepRap Wiki - Pololu stepper driver board, which, in turn, refers to this thread, Strange stepper behavior and this video, video-2012-02-02-16-37-26.mp4, which describes a jitter in the stepper behaviour.\n\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n3137,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,xybrek,2.8153892694839717,4.016817001487613,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,Printing objects with holes using M3D Printer,\"I am using an M3D printer and loaded an STL design with holes in the middle:\n\n\n\nHowever, the output is an object without holes (so I stopped the printing): \n\n\n\nWhat can be done to be able to print with holes?\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"Have you tried letting it print a few more layers? It is very common that printers use the first few layers to create a raft, which will make the model adhere better to the bed.\n\nI believe this illustration from Simplify3D displays this well:\n\n\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n3137,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,xybrek,2.8153892694839717,4.016817001487613,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,Printing objects with holes using M3D Printer,\"I am using an M3D printer and loaded an STL design with holes in the middle:\n\n\n\nHowever, the output is an object without holes (so I stopped the printing): \n\n\n\nWhat can be done to be able to print with holes?\n\",Golightly,\"Case 1:\n\nThere may be an issue with the precision of the print nozzle, not being able to fully articulate the hole. That is to say, the printer is trying to print it with holes, but the material is filling in that area.\n\nTry increasing the size of the hole. Granted, it is not an exact process but there may be an inner hole diameter that winds up mimicking the diameter you're looking for after the material extrudes. \n\nThis case could be rejected by nature of the printer depositing straight lines through the center diameter of the cylinder's base.\n\nCase 2:\n\nThere may be some discrepancy between the file's appearance and the file's information.\n\nIf you downloaded the file from somewhere like ThingiVerse, try designing the part yourself if possible. If you designed it yourself, overwrite the file with a second version. \n\nCase 3:\n\nIf downloaded, verify that the center hole is extruded though the entire thickness of the part. It may be that it's extruded most of the way through and there is a sealed bottom layer. \n\",0.0,0.0\n3151,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,xybrek,2.8153892694839717,5.658586140898314,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.585260288142579,M4 screw and nut for 3D printing?,\"Does anyone know where I can get a free 3D design (STEP or STL) of an M4 Screw and nut? I have found only an M3 on Thingiverse: M3 Bolt by Kaleta.\n\",tjb1,\"You can get a model for nearly everything McMaster-Carr sells from their website.\n\nM4 Hex Head Screw - https://www.mcmaster.com/#91280a140/=15dmpx8\n\nM4 Nut - https://www.mcmaster.com/#90592a090/=15dmqjy\n\nThe options to download models are to the right of the drawings.\n\n\n\nNOTE: the site does prohibit use of these models for direct printing.\n\n\n You shall not use a CAD model to engage in 3D printing or other\n fabrication of the object depicted in the CAD model for any other\n purpose. You shall not otherwise redistribute or make available the\n CAD models (or any design drawings or prototypes that incorporate\n them) to any third parties, including third parties in the business of\n selling products similar to the products sold by us.\n\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n3151,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,xybrek,2.8153892694839717,5.658586140898314,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.585260288142579,M4 screw and nut for 3D printing?,\"Does anyone know where I can get a free 3D design (STEP or STL) of an M4 Screw and nut? I have found only an M3 on Thingiverse: M3 Bolt by Kaleta.\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"The thing you linked to describes itself as being generated from a parametric model:\nhttp://www.thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=193647\n\nTo generate any different bolt or nut, you will need to identify the correct dimensions for not only the thread (where hints exist in the customiser), but also for the hex head. These are obviously less critical to define than the thread.\n\nOnce you have generated a custom model, you can share it and answer your own question.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n3160,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,xybrek,3.9045305118418514,5.227413951358344,0.0,4.670422881206417,4.091740895605862,2.880918201452841,Printing screws - is the output usable? (M3 or M4),\"I just want to ask if anyone has successfully printed a screw (M3 or M4). Is the printed output usable as a screw? What printer is capable of printing screws? I am using an M3D printer - is there a configuration to successfully print a screw that is usable?\n\nCan anyone share a picture of the best 3D printed screw?\n\",darth pixel,\"well... it's hard to imagine printing M3 or even M4\nI haven't try but I haven't because I'm pretty sure it's not possible (on my printer of course)\n\nbut some time ago I've tried M8 which is of course way from your needs\nit was printed on 0.1mm layer height\n\nit went ok into the nut without any problems but the strength is not very high I suppose\n\nI know the quality is poor but even such bad photo shows issues\n\n\n\n\",3.5068404193471867,2.0769199823829045\n3160,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,xybrek,3.9045305118418514,5.227413951358344,0.0,4.670422881206417,4.091740895605862,2.880918201452841,Printing screws - is the output usable? (M3 or M4),\"I just want to ask if anyone has successfully printed a screw (M3 or M4). Is the printed output usable as a screw? What printer is capable of printing screws? I am using an M3D printer - is there a configuration to successfully print a screw that is usable?\n\nCan anyone share a picture of the best 3D printed screw?\n\",Falderol,\"I've had success printing pins at that size, but not screws. At that size the pins were also exciedingly suceptible to stress, ie easy to break. At that scale the tolerances are a bit tight when printing that small and there will be small variances in precision with most printers. The best example of this is to try to print a lego piece, they dont snap together, some are slightly to big, and some are slightly to small and sometimes they will break. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3291,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,xybrek,1.726248027126092,4.313373037751713,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,0.551027839747059,How to prevent bend (or warping) with M3D printer?,\"Hello is there a way to prevent bend on print with M3D printer? \n\n\n\",StarWind0,\"Going to also say you need to provide us with a ton more information. What settings, what temps, what plastic. \n\nThat said the best thing I can recommend is doing a Raft for your print. Adding a Fan to your printer. Making sure your heated bed is on. I also like to use gluesticks for PLA, hairspray or Kapton for ABS. \n\nHere is Ultimakers guide to Gluesticks\n\nHere is a guide on rafts and Brims from simplify 3d\n\nComment on my answer once you provide more information and I will improve my answer. \n\",0.0,0.0\n3291,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,xybrek,1.726248027126092,4.313373037751713,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,0.551027839747059,How to prevent bend (or warping) with M3D printer?,\"Hello is there a way to prevent bend on print with M3D printer? \n\n\n\",Gunslinger,\"You can to print a brim, a thin layer on the bottom connected to the model. This will help hold it in place. Since it is thin (one or two layers) it will not warp itself.\n\nThe brim is not the same thing as a raft. A raft is under the model. The brim is on the same layer as the models bottom layer but outside the model. It looks something like this:\n\n\n\nI assume that you use a heated bed if you have one?\n\nAlso, it is imperative that you get a good first layer. Calibrate your machine carefully.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3159,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,jmontineri,3.452496054252184,3.502641775239062,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,MINTEMP error after crash,\"I just got my HICTOP Prusa i3 Aluminium frame printer and finished putting it together. After setting it to preheat, I realized the bed was not level - I adjusted it and accidentally caused the head to crash into the bed.\n\nIt sounded like something popped, and the printer restarted. It is now showing a MINTEMP error message, and both bed and hotend temperatures read 0°C.\n\nThe only visible damage is that a thin layer came off the printbed - After testing with a multimeter, I realized that the metal under this layer is connected to power. As both the bed and hotend were heating, I believe I may have caused a short.\n\nReplacing the thermistor on the hotend with a spare did not solve the issue. I tested the thermistor on the printbed with a multimeter, and it seems to be working correctly (resistance value around ~200 kΩ at room temperature).\n\nWhich leads me to believe that I may have damaged the control board. What do I do?\n\nNote: This is not a firmware problem as the printer was getting correct temperature readings before that. Also, I have a second extruder thermistor port that is unused. If I did damage my board, could I edit pins.h and configuration.h to use this port instead, and completely disconnect the heated printbed?\n\",jmontineri,\"After replacing the control board, it now prints flawlessly. Apparently,I really did damage the control board...\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n3165,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hampus,3.618048892289167,3.7005487749244255,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.880918201452841,What resolution (pixels/mm) should I use in SVG for CNC?,\"I am planning a mechanical 40% keyboard build and are coincidentally on the home stretch of a homemade CNC project.\n\nThe only thing the CNC needs to do for the keyboard project is to drill 7*48 holes. So what I need to do now is layout those holes in SVG. Therein lies the question. What resolution should I use for the SVG? I want to space the center of the keyboard switches 19 mm apart. An online pixel to mm converter suggested that 72 pixels is exactly 19.05 mm (which actually is what Cherry MX says should be their spacing).\n\nNow, I do understand that this really doesn't matter, but I am curious as I am new on CNCs and was suspecting that there is a number that will \"\"just work\"\". \n\nEDIT:\nFor example, if I where to print the template (SVG) on a regular printer, what pixel to mm ratio should I use so that it would come out the size I want?\n\",David Heyman,\"SVG is a vector-graphics format, there's no particular reason it can't scale arbitrarily. Presumably the CNC software will allow you to select the scale of a pixel? If so, pick a scale that makes the math work out easily (so some integer number of pixels per millimeter). If not, it's probably documented somewhere for the specific tool you're using.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3165,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hampus,3.618048892289167,3.7005487749244255,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.880918201452841,What resolution (pixels/mm) should I use in SVG for CNC?,\"I am planning a mechanical 40% keyboard build and are coincidentally on the home stretch of a homemade CNC project.\n\nThe only thing the CNC needs to do for the keyboard project is to drill 7*48 holes. So what I need to do now is layout those holes in SVG. Therein lies the question. What resolution should I use for the SVG? I want to space the center of the keyboard switches 19 mm apart. An online pixel to mm converter suggested that 72 pixels is exactly 19.05 mm (which actually is what Cherry MX says should be their spacing).\n\nNow, I do understand that this really doesn't matter, but I am curious as I am new on CNCs and was suspecting that there is a number that will \"\"just work\"\". \n\nEDIT:\nFor example, if I where to print the template (SVG) on a regular printer, what pixel to mm ratio should I use so that it would come out the size I want?\n\",Hampus,\"I found one of those printer things that puts ink on dead trees and tested to print a simple SVG file.\n\n<svg xmlns=\"\"http://www.w3.org/2000/svg\"\"\n width=\"\"400px\"\" height=\"\"800px\"\">\n <rect x=\"\"10\"\" y=\"\"10\"\" width=\"\"72\"\" height=\"\"72\"\" fill=\"\"#999999\"\" />\n <rect x=\"\"10\"\" y=\"\"100\"\" width=\"\"378\"\" height=\"\"378\"\" fill=\"\"#999999\"\" />\n</svg>\n\n\nAs I suspected 72 pixels came out pretty much exactly 19mm. (72/19.05)*100~=378 came out 100mm.\n\nGiven this I am going to assume that 72/19.05 is the de facto best pixel to mm ratio to use for CNC projects.\n\nEDIT:\n\nFound this documentation: http://w3.org/TR/SVG/coords.html#Units\n\n<svg xmlns=\"\"http://www.w3.org/2000/svg\"\"\n width=\"\"400px\"\" height=\"\"800px\"\">\n <rect x=\"\"10\"\" y=\"\"10\"\" width=\"\"19.05mm\"\" height=\"\"19.05mm\"\" fill=\"\"#999999\"\" />\n <rect x=\"\"10\"\" y=\"\"100\"\" width=\"\"100mm\"\" height=\"\"100mm\"\" fill=\"\"#999999\"\" />\n</svg> \n\n\nMuch simpler to use mm as units right away \n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n3174,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,William M-B,2.8153892694839717,3.1584864133350328,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Resources/methods to construct STL files using disparate parts using OpenSCAD,\"What resources or methods would OpenSCAD users suggest to piece together disparate STL files?\n\nI'd like to take an existing STL model-library of STL parts (head, torso, arms, legs) and make it a Thingiverse OpenSTL maker, similar to the castle generator and/or the puzzle generators available.\n\nThis way, users can generate a custom model using the designated parameters and download the model for printing.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"I'll offer up the following options, without waiting for an answer to my question.\n\nOne can import a specific STL file into OpenSCAD and perform rotation, translation and scale, but it would be \"\"clunky\"\" as you'd be making miniscule changes to the parameters for those actions. Each imported object would have to be manipulated individually via the changes in the code. If your imported objects have quantifiable dimensions, that is, if you know specific measurements, you would have an easier time of the project.\n\nIf you are not limiting yourself to OpenSCAD, I'd recommend the easy-to-use MeshMixer. I recently \"\"assembled\"\" the parts of a cosplay \"\"weapon\"\" for a friend. All the parts were individual STL files and were positioned in 3-space using MeshMixer to make the parts appear as if the project were printed and assembled.\n\nThe transform tool in Meshmixer is a graphic three-arrow/three-axis manipulator icon. Grab an arrow tip and the model moves in the direction of the drag. Grab an arc between two arrows and the model rotates. If you want five degree rotation increments, move the mouse outward after the grab and get a calibration circle. When the mouse is on the circle, you get snaps to five degrees. If you need smaller movement, move the mouse out even farther from the center.\n\nThe 3-space presented in Meshmixer gives you the ability to align pieces/parts in all three dimensions, to your satisfaction. There is a model hide and a model-ghost feature as well, to assist the placement.\n\nI expect that one could use a program such as Blender, but the learning curve is more like a chasm or cliff-face.\n\nOne could use an engineering-focus program such as SolidWorks, Fusion 360 and so many others, but I think your head, arms, legs, torso reference means you aren't using orthogonal models more suited to those programs.\n\nMeshmixer, like OpenSCAD is free. I use both and approve this message.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3174,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,William M-B,2.8153892694839717,3.1584864133350328,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Resources/methods to construct STL files using disparate parts using OpenSCAD,\"What resources or methods would OpenSCAD users suggest to piece together disparate STL files?\n\nI'd like to take an existing STL model-library of STL parts (head, torso, arms, legs) and make it a Thingiverse OpenSTL maker, similar to the castle generator and/or the puzzle generators available.\n\nThis way, users can generate a custom model using the designated parameters and download the model for printing.\n\",vwegert,\"While this is probably (?) not suitable for the Thingiverse customizer, OpenSCAD has a decent Makefile support. In a project I am currently working on, I have a set of include files that start off with some configurable parameters, then provide some computed dimensions based on these parameters which are then used to render the individual components. Through the Makefile/.deps mechanism, the system keeps track of which component .scad file is influenced by which settings file and automatically rebuilds the parts that might be affected. (Note that the .deps files are not checked into the repository.) In the assembled model, I merely import the individual rendered STL files (in my case, always through some wrapper module for coloring and BOM generation).\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3178,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user_1_1_1,3.267423727073639,3.7479705370162373,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.9784382375735183,3D printed mold techniques for long and short term usage,\"3D printing can be used to make injection molds of unimaginable complexity but which kind of 3D printing process is suitable when? \n\nSuppose that a part is to be made using injection molding in large quantity for an extended period of time, what Additive Manufacturing (AM) process will be the best, such that the mold does not give way too soon? \n\nAlso, suppose that the part to be made is custom and only has to be made in small quantities - that is to say that the injection mold will be used limited number of items and then thrown away - which is the best AM technique then? Best in the sense of economic feasibility, lower cost, lower capital investment etc.?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Stratasys offers a 3D printing system specifically for producing injection molds. They claim their Polyjet/Digital ABS line of printers can produce prototype injection molds good for 10-100 shots of the same mold and that the material can be used with regular injection molding machines.\n\nOf course, the molds still wear out quickly and are only suitable for prototyping and/or extremely small production runs.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3178,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user_1_1_1,3.267423727073639,3.7479705370162373,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.9784382375735183,3D printed mold techniques for long and short term usage,\"3D printing can be used to make injection molds of unimaginable complexity but which kind of 3D printing process is suitable when? \n\nSuppose that a part is to be made using injection molding in large quantity for an extended period of time, what Additive Manufacturing (AM) process will be the best, such that the mold does not give way too soon? \n\nAlso, suppose that the part to be made is custom and only has to be made in small quantities - that is to say that the injection mold will be used limited number of items and then thrown away - which is the best AM technique then? Best in the sense of economic feasibility, lower cost, lower capital investment etc.?\n\",StarWind0,\"Yes, this is very broad. That said...\n\nFor high detail you want SLA. i.e. jewelry. If you just want a prototype of a mold, you can do a standard FDM style printer (95% of printers are FDM, and that number is a guess)\n\nReally, you should be asking what material you need for your mold, but you can open a second question for that.\n\nDo more research on injection molding. There is a great deal of information on how molds are made, i.e. How It's Made Plastic injection molds.\n\nYou will see there is a vast difference between a plastic, or silicon, mold and an injection molding machine. You are thinking that injection molding as a single mold, when it is really it is a system composing of several pieces of heavy duty machinery that can pump out hundreds of items a day automatically. However, it usually starts at 20k USD for the tooling for injection molding. Your costs could be a fraction of that or could be several times that. This is just a generality. So, if you are making 100 units you won't want to go down that route. For 10,000 units, on the other hand, it would be acceptable. \n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n3184,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kjell Rilbe,2.8153892694839717,4.09181718796098,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.878685800062712,3D printers for ceramic clay?,\"Are there any extruders and printers that do a good job with ceramic clay?\n\nI assume the clay has to be fine grained and with enough water added to be able to be pushed out through the extruder's nozzle. I also assume the print speed would have to be arther low for the already printed layers to gain stability before printing the next layer. Perhaps some extra equipment on the printer to spped up this drying process?\n\nAt the same time, the print speed can't be too low: if the bottom starts to dry enough to start shrinking, the object will crack.\n\nAlso, some solutions I've seen tend to result in rather low resolution/thick layers, which is negative.\n\nSo, what equipment is \"\"out there\"\"?\n\",StarWind0,\"What you are looking for is the Frostruder style extruders.\n\nHere is a link to a thingiverse file for it. \n\nYou honestly cannot expect fantastic results but it will get the job done! There are many other types. Quality will depend on the size of the point. However with something as high viscosity as clay I would not expect you to be able to push the quality very high.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3184,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kjell Rilbe,2.8153892694839717,4.09181718796098,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.878685800062712,3D printers for ceramic clay?,\"Are there any extruders and printers that do a good job with ceramic clay?\n\nI assume the clay has to be fine grained and with enough water added to be able to be pushed out through the extruder's nozzle. I also assume the print speed would have to be arther low for the already printed layers to gain stability before printing the next layer. Perhaps some extra equipment on the printer to spped up this drying process?\n\nAt the same time, the print speed can't be too low: if the bottom starts to dry enough to start shrinking, the object will crack.\n\nAlso, some solutions I've seen tend to result in rather low resolution/thick layers, which is negative.\n\nSo, what equipment is \"\"out there\"\"?\n\",Anatoly Berezkin,\"Here is an open source clay extruder from standard parts, that i designed\nhttps://www.stoneflower3d.com/projects/clay-extruder-prototype/\nDifferent designs of 3D printers, pumps, extruders etc. for clay are posted and discussed in the Google Community \"\"Make Your Own Ceramic 3D Printer\"\", driven by Jonathan Keep (https://plus.google.com/u/0/communities/109375785524125994679).\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3185,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas S.,3.9045305118418514,6.844788954137181,2.7799718631987322,5.646830619998737,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Extruder clicks,\"I have Prusa i3 derivative with MK8 extruder and Marlin 1.1RC8 as firmware. I already reduced the default speeds as well as the accelerations. But sometimes when trying to print with BQ PLA filament (220°C), mostly during filling areas, my extruder clicks. The below screenshot of Slic3rs Layers view shows the clicking \"\"lines\"\".\n\n\n\nWhat settings I need to change to avoid the overextrusion in this case?\n\",Thomas S.,\"I've tried to reduce the \"\"Extrusion multiplier\"\" from 1 to 0.95, but that caused gaps. Now I've minimized the clicking by setting the Slic3r option \"\"Infill before perimeters\"\" on the \"\"Print Settings > Infill\"\" page.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3185,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas S.,3.9045305118418514,6.844788954137181,2.7799718631987322,5.646830619998737,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Extruder clicks,\"I have Prusa i3 derivative with MK8 extruder and Marlin 1.1RC8 as firmware. I already reduced the default speeds as well as the accelerations. But sometimes when trying to print with BQ PLA filament (220°C), mostly during filling areas, my extruder clicks. The below screenshot of Slic3rs Layers view shows the clicking \"\"lines\"\".\n\n\n\nWhat settings I need to change to avoid the overextrusion in this case?\n\",rwinscot,\"Extruder 'clicking' is an audible indicator that the teeth on the hobbed gear are slipping... determining if this is a symptom or a problem is where things get tricky. \n\nNot so sure about adjusting feed rate - as this will impact the entire print and may introduce other problems. Measuring the dimensions of a sample print with a set of calipers is a good way of identifying over/under extrusion. \n\nGeneral maintenance items perhaps?\n\n\nThermistor: Nozzle temperature measurement is dependent upon the precision of the thermistor and how well it is attached... 5% drift at 220 degrees may be as low as 210 degrees or as high as 230 degrees. Use a thermocouple on a multimeter, non-contact probe, etc. to verify your nozzle temperature.\nTemperature: Nozzle temperature 'sag' of +/- 5 degrees is normal. Monitor nozzle temperature during a print to see if it stays within this range (see: Speed below). \nSpeed: Printing fast is awesome... when you have a hotend that can keep-up with the demands of melting incoming filament. Too fast, and the filament may not be properly melted; increasing the pressure needed to force it through the nozzle. Support material and infill typically print faster than the rest of the model - you mentioned hearing clicks \"\"...mostly during filling areas.\"\"\nAlignment: Make sure the hobbed gear, idler bearing, and filament are properly aligned. Filament that wanders around in the feed path is much more likely to slip and/or buckle.\nTeeth: Make sure that the teeth of the hobbed gear are clean and clear of debris. 'Gunk' in hobbed gear teeth reduce grip on the filament.\nTension: Increase the tension between the hobbed gear and idler bearing if possible; worn hobbed gears may need a little extra help holding-on to the filament. \nStepper: Heat generated by the stepper motor can be passed down to the hobbed gear... softening the filament and causing it to slip. Stepper quality, capacity, and duty cycle can greatly effect how much heat is generated; 200+ degrees is entirely possible. Passive cooling (heatsink) is a good idea, active cooling (fan) is better. \n\n\nA loose heat-break, nicks in the filament path, variations in filament width, etc. are all possibilities as well. \n\nAlso, Simplify3D created a great reference for solutions to common 3D printing problems (if you haven't seen it already). \n\nhttps://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3202,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas S.,3.0576060275493275,6.8718884394658994,1.7539669625835614,7.210942892030981,3.0574377365420307,1.9845362418001,PLA and bed heating?,\"I've read different things about PLA and heat-bed. Some say it is not needed, others recommend 60-70°C, but not for the first layers.\n\nFor larger objects I often have the problem that the object does not stick to the blue-painters-tape-covered aluminium print plate. Instead the print \"\"curls\"\" up on one or more corners. To reduce this effect, I'm using a brim between 5 and 10mm. Depending on the size of the object the brim works quite well. Will heating the bed also improve the print quality by reducing the amount of heat warping / curling?\n\",Diesel,\"The answer depends a bit on the type of PLA (supplier of specific filament), type of machine, type of build platform, size of model and ambient temperature. \n\nPLA has less issues with warping compared to ABS or Nylon, but can still warp depending on everything mentioned. My usual first try to minimize warping is to heat the bed. 60 - 70 °C works well but I'll also go up to 100 depending on a variety of factors. If still not having any luck, generally on larger parts I try adding a raft. If I STILL have issues after that I'll add 'helper disks' (small quarter dollar sized disks) around the part to increase the surface area of the raft. The disks will add more material but I have about a 99 % success rate using these.\n\nIf a part is going to take more than about 3 hours and I can't have any warping at all, I always use a heated build plate and place the discs all the way around the part. Generally will add about a hour or more, but well worth the extra time.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3202,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas S.,3.0576060275493275,6.8718884394658994,1.7539669625835614,7.210942892030981,3.0574377365420307,1.9845362418001,PLA and bed heating?,\"I've read different things about PLA and heat-bed. Some say it is not needed, others recommend 60-70°C, but not for the first layers.\n\nFor larger objects I often have the problem that the object does not stick to the blue-painters-tape-covered aluminium print plate. Instead the print \"\"curls\"\" up on one or more corners. To reduce this effect, I'm using a brim between 5 and 10mm. Depending on the size of the object the brim works quite well. Will heating the bed also improve the print quality by reducing the amount of heat warping / curling?\n\",R..,\"Heating the bed helps with adhesion to the bed, but can seriously interfere with cooling of the layers just above the bed that are in contact with large amounts of material touching the bed. I've found that, if I have a model with a flat region touching the bed and walls leaning outward from it (overhangs) as they go up, any corners will curl upwards before they can cool if the bed is 60 °C or above - it's effectively a heat bath at the glass transition temperature that's going to be hard for a fan to overcome.\n\nAt 50 °C the effect is almost gone, and at 40 °C and below it seems entirely gone, but the exact temperature that's safe is going to depend on ambient room temperature, cooling fan power, and effectiveness of the fan duct. I've just found this as a solution to my curling-corner problems, so I might end up tweaking things more, but I think I'm going to try printing PLA without heating the bed at all unless I have trouble with adhesion.\n\nAn example showing slightly warped vertex/edge from curling corners at 50 °C vs good ones at lower temperatures:\n\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n3215,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas S.,3.9045305118418514,4.914402060763055,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.3995491493854546,Designing/Printing objects with sized holes,\"When trying to print parts that should contain certain sized holes, e.g. for screws, how to achieve that they are sized correctly?\n\nIs it possible to calibrate the printer perfectly, so it prints holes correctly sizes in all common sizes (e.g. starting at 2mm diameter)? Or is it better to design the holes larger or print prototypes and increase the sizes according to the real prints?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The reason holes come out undersized is generally the slicer, so calibrating the printer itself cannot solve the issue (without making other things worse). The output of the printer is exactly what it should be, given the G-code provided to it. It's just that the G-code does not represent the hole diameter correctly.\n\nIt would be best to simply account for the deviation in your design, or simply drill out undersized holes to the correct diameter.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n3215,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas S.,3.9045305118418514,4.914402060763055,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.3995491493854546,Designing/Printing objects with sized holes,\"When trying to print parts that should contain certain sized holes, e.g. for screws, how to achieve that they are sized correctly?\n\nIs it possible to calibrate the printer perfectly, so it prints holes correctly sizes in all common sizes (e.g. starting at 2mm diameter)? Or is it better to design the holes larger or print prototypes and increase the sizes according to the real prints?\n\",Raniz,\"I've had this issue too and I've pretty much solved it by making all holes polygons instead of round.\n\nThe general rule of thumb I follow is to use a polygon with 4 times as many sides as the hole diameter in millimeters, e.g. for a hole with a 3 mm diameter I'd use a 12 sided polygon.\n\nThen it's a matter of choosing between a circumscribed (circle fits inside polygon) or an inscribed (polygon fits inside circle) polygon depending on what you're using the hole for.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3302,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas S.,3.618048892289167,6.613539921519586,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,4.240216107868139,3.585260288142579,Tool to measure in STL files,\"I want to create parts for a 3D printer using OpenSCAD. Having some STL files from the vendor, but nothing else (no technical drawing, no CAD files).\n\nDoes anybody knows a free tool, that allows me to\n\n\nmeasure distances between 2 selected vertices,\nmeasure distances between a selected vertex and a plane defined by 3 vertices,\nmeasure the radio of a circle defined by 3 selected vertices?\n\n\nI very much like the way Blender allows to work with meshes, especially select vertices or planes, but unfortunately haven't found a way to measure with Blender.\n\",Thomas S.,\"Blender also has a tool to measure: Ruler and Protractor independent of edges.\n\",0.0,0.0\n3302,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas S.,3.618048892289167,6.613539921519586,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,4.240216107868139,3.585260288142579,Tool to measure in STL files,\"I want to create parts for a 3D printer using OpenSCAD. Having some STL files from the vendor, but nothing else (no technical drawing, no CAD files).\n\nDoes anybody knows a free tool, that allows me to\n\n\nmeasure distances between 2 selected vertices,\nmeasure distances between a selected vertex and a plane defined by 3 vertices,\nmeasure the radio of a circle defined by 3 selected vertices?\n\n\nI very much like the way Blender allows to work with meshes, especially select vertices or planes, but unfortunately haven't found a way to measure with Blender.\n\",Gunslinger,\"I suggest blender. It's not the simplest of tools but it is free and learning it will improve your 3d printing skills. :-) (I write this answer also for future viewers of this question so I start basic).\n\nCheck here for another answer:\nhttps://blender.stackexchange.com/questions/19772/how-do-i-measure-a-distance-between-two-points\n\n\nImport your STL-file.\nPress the Home key to view everything.\nSelect the model by clicking on it with your right mouse button.\nHit tab to enter edit-mode.\nPress N (or use View | Properties) until the Properties panel shows up.\nSelect the \"\"Length\"\" checkbox in the \"\"Edge Info\"\" section of the Properties panel (see image below).\nSelect \"\"Edge Select\"\" mode (see image below)\nSelect the edge to measure by clicking on it with your right mouse button.\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you need to measure the distance between to vertices with no edge. Create the edge by selecting them and pressing F.\nIf you need to measure the distance between a vertex and any other point, select it and press E to extrude. \n\",3.6340916038470805,2.0769199823829045\n3344,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas S.,0.0,4.925765577261786,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Calibrating steps/order,\"Does anybody have an overview of what things should be calibrated (and in what order) for a certain 3d printer or after changing the printing material?\n\nI only know about:\n\n\ncalibrating the extruder steps per mm, e.g. Tom's youtube tutorial\ndetermining the print temperature, e.g. RepRap Neo's youtube tutorial\ncalibrating the extrusion multiplier (for each different filament), e.g. RepRap 101's youtube tutorial\n\n\nHow to calibrate/determine the maximum speeds or accelerations?\n\",StarWind0,\"How to Calibrate. Oh man that is a good 2-3 page long blog post.. So I will try to give you the bullet point section. \n\nHigh level\n\n\nMechanical \nFirmware \nSoftware\nrepeat\n\n\nMechanical\nLevel everything. Bed. The X axis. Make sure there is no binding, etc. Also make sure the surface you are on is flat before leveling the printer by it.\n\nFirmware\nGet that printer moving. This is where you do you Steps per MM. I like Triffids guide.\n\nNow is when you go into the software and start setting your slicer settings. This includes your filament measurements etc. You should go back 2-3 times between this step and the previous to make sure your extruding EXACTLY what you think you are. As mentioned by others filament calculation is hard. You need to measure across a lot of material. Take the averages. You will never get it perfect as the plastic is never perfect. Picking a solid supplier is a factor here too. \n\nOnce you think you have that all working. Repeat. Start at step one. \n\nAfter your done looping though you will start with the slicer calibrations. Which is the meat of your question. You will take collections like this one or this one and tweak settings until you can pass each test. Do your tests in this order\n\n\nsingle wall test\nhollow cube\nsolid cube Here is a Bonus solid cube\nbridging test (honestly I rarely do this one..) \npart fitting test\n\n\nNow for testing when switching material. Honestly its best to start with their settings, and tweak them. I like to have a spread sheet of xy speed, Z lift, temps. Massage it till you are happy. The firmware settings like jerk and acceleration will be less of a factor between materials. Get it perfect once and don't touch it (till you decide it is not perfect).\n\nYou will be testing the new material with the same STLs as I mentioned in the precious section. You also might want to look into Simplify 3d (no affiliation) if you get really into it. Also SAVE THE SETTINGS. Nothing sucks more then losing all this work and having to recreate these profiles for materials. Do not trust slic3r to back them up, or to not randomly delete them. Hard lesson there.\n\nFar as max speeds and accelleration..\n\nMax speed will really be a function of how fast can you hear up plastic. If you have a e3d with Volcano mod you can really crank the speed up. So you go to the point where your extruder just cannot hit target temps AND you are unable to print solid infill. Far as acceleration and jerk. When you knock your extruder causing your print to shift, then you know it is accelerating / jerking too hard.\n\nBest of luck! Let me know if I can clear up a section for you.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3344,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas S.,0.0,4.925765577261786,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Calibrating steps/order,\"Does anybody have an overview of what things should be calibrated (and in what order) for a certain 3d printer or after changing the printing material?\n\nI only know about:\n\n\ncalibrating the extruder steps per mm, e.g. Tom's youtube tutorial\ndetermining the print temperature, e.g. RepRap Neo's youtube tutorial\ncalibrating the extrusion multiplier (for each different filament), e.g. RepRap 101's youtube tutorial\n\n\nHow to calibrate/determine the maximum speeds or accelerations?\n\",Diesel,\"Recalibrating your machine for the new filament diameter is a good idea. Filament diameters vary slightly between manufacturers. \n\",0.0,0.0\n4745,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas S.,3.618048892289167,6.988817455026626,4.072585167927022,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,3.206343760378365,Cura: set z-offset,\"I'm having a Prusa i3 derivative printer with a capacitive sensor for the z-axis. It switches a tiny bit before the nozzle hits the print bed and hence needs a z-offset to be configured.\n\nIn Slic3r I have configured the z-offset to -0.1 on the General page of the Printer Settings, but currently I'm evaluating Cura and can't find such a setting. Slic3r seems to apply this setting directly to the generated z-values in the g-code, so it does not use a short version at the beginning of the g-code. My current (except of the auto-bed-leveling part default) g-code:\n\nG28 ;Home\nG29 ; auto-bed-leveling\nG1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm\nG92 E0\nG1 F200 E3\nG92 E0\n\n\nIs there a way to configure Cura, e.g. using the Start Gcode options, to apply the z-offset?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"You can trick the printer into applying an offset using the G92 command:\n\nG0 Z0\n\nG92 Z0.1\n\n\nFirst, we move the nozzle to Z=0. Next, through the G92 command, we tell the printer to, from now on, treat the current position as Z=0.1. This effectively applies an offset of -0.1 to the Z-axis, since if we now executed G0 Z0 again, the nozzle would move down 0.1mm.\n\nNote that this needs to be done after homing and leveling to be effective.\n\nOf course, you don't necessarily need to move the nozzle to Z=0 for this to work. You could also just insert G92 Z15.1 after G0 Z15 to get the same effect.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n4745,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas S.,3.618048892289167,6.988817455026626,4.072585167927022,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,3.206343760378365,Cura: set z-offset,\"I'm having a Prusa i3 derivative printer with a capacitive sensor for the z-axis. It switches a tiny bit before the nozzle hits the print bed and hence needs a z-offset to be configured.\n\nIn Slic3r I have configured the z-offset to -0.1 on the General page of the Printer Settings, but currently I'm evaluating Cura and can't find such a setting. Slic3r seems to apply this setting directly to the generated z-values in the g-code, so it does not use a short version at the beginning of the g-code. My current (except of the auto-bed-leveling part default) g-code:\n\nG28 ;Home\nG29 ; auto-bed-leveling\nG1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm\nG92 E0\nG1 F200 E3\nG92 E0\n\n\nIs there a way to configure Cura, e.g. using the Start Gcode options, to apply the z-offset?\n\",Zohar Karabelnik,\"I built my printer five years ago with a similar issue and I strongly suggest that the physical 0 will be the actual 0 instead of tweeking it into the system. Especially if you are exploring and testing new methods, i.e. Cura vs Slic3r settings. In Marlin, you can insert a z adjustment for the endstops but it can create future complications if you decide to upgrade the machine.\n\nKeep it as simple as possible, if a sensor is misplaced don't try to reverse calculate it, the pressure of the motors will nudge it and after a while you'll have the same problem...\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4762,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas S.,3.267423727073639,5.297837014425656,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Wavy walls with Ultimaker Cura,\"I've printed a 2x2x2 cm test cube with Slic3r (left) and Ultimaker Cura (right) and my Prusa i3 derivative machine with tight belts. The print settings should be quite equal (0.15 mm layer height, 40 mm/s outer wall speed, default accelerations/jerks). Though the top surface of the Ultimaker Cura-cube looks much better than the Slic3r-cube,\n\n\n\nthe latter has much flatter vertical walls than the first. \n\n\n\n\nThe front wall of the Ultimaker Cura-cube was printed from left to right which could explain the wavy result as some kind of vibration caused by the sharp y-stop at the left front corner.\n\nBut what setting could have influenced this? Should I try to manual setting of lower accelerations in Ultimaker Cura?\n\",Mick,\"Those wavy lines could be artefacts caused by closely-spaced infill, but they could also be resonance patterns caused by noisy stepper motors and over-tight belts. Since you have said that you have your belts nice and tight, I would suggest reducing the tension on them and see what happens. I know that some pundits say that it is not possible to have timing belts too tight, but I disagree with that. Belts should obviously be tight enough to eliminate free play in the system, and you may have a lot of latitude in the tensions that you can use, but if you make them drum-tight, they will transmit motor vibrations very effectively to the build plate (and onto your models).\n\nIf your stepper motors are noisy, you may want to invest in some vibration dampers. They can reduce noise and vibration significantly. Another solution would be to use more sophisticated stepper motor drivers, such as the TMC2100.\n\nRepRapWiki: TMC2100\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n4762,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas S.,3.267423727073639,5.297837014425656,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Wavy walls with Ultimaker Cura,\"I've printed a 2x2x2 cm test cube with Slic3r (left) and Ultimaker Cura (right) and my Prusa i3 derivative machine with tight belts. The print settings should be quite equal (0.15 mm layer height, 40 mm/s outer wall speed, default accelerations/jerks). Though the top surface of the Ultimaker Cura-cube looks much better than the Slic3r-cube,\n\n\n\nthe latter has much flatter vertical walls than the first. \n\n\n\n\nThe front wall of the Ultimaker Cura-cube was printed from left to right which could explain the wavy result as some kind of vibration caused by the sharp y-stop at the left front corner.\n\nBut what setting could have influenced this? Should I try to manual setting of lower accelerations in Ultimaker Cura?\n\",0scar,\"This defect that you see is called \"\"Ringing\"\" and is described in detail here.\n\nIn summary, these waves are seen when the print head makes a sudden change in direction in combination with high speeds and high accelerations. As the waves dampen in amplitude the further you get from the sharp corner, this is related to print settings rather than vibrations transmitted through the belts.\n\nApparently, the settings for Ultimaker Cura differ from the settings in Slic3r, there is no other explanation as the hardware is exactly the same. Reducing print speed and acceleration in Ultimaker Cura will reduce the ringing defects.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n3190,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,electrophile,2.528907649931287,5.348554871589556,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Extending extruder heater and thermistor wires,\"I wanted to extend the E3D V6's extruder heater and the thermistor wires. Is it ok to solder extension wires or does it have to be crimp only! Also are regular wires ok or does it have to be some special cable?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Soldering is fine, both for the thermistor wires as for the heater.\n\nThe wires don't need to be particularly special, though there are some things you should keep in mind:\n\n\nCurrent. The heater can draw up to 3-4A, the wires need to be able to handle this. The wires for the thermistor can be thinner.\nFlexibility. The hotend (presumably) moves, so the wires should be able to withstand frequent movement. Use stranded (rather than solid) wire.\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n3207,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,electrophile,3.0576060275493275,3.469045931690484,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.265283966335819,Is z-axis zero near the hotend?,\"I'm in the process of building the D-Bot core XY printer, and I was hoping to know if the Z-axis 'zero' is near the hot end or near the bottom of the printer furthest away from the hotend? In this printer the Z-platform moves up and down and the nozzle stays at the same height.\n\",tbm0115,\"Yes, Z-Zero is typically at the \"\"top\"\" of the printer, closest to the nozzle(s). X and Y zeros are also typically in the lower-left corner of the buildplate.\n\nHowever, the XY zeros are re-interpreted in slicing software to produce cleaner G-Code as it's sometimes difficult to read G-Code in negative coordinates. For this functionality, slicing engines utilize the machine build space length and width.\n\nSo if you encounter a situation where your machine \"\"over travels\"\" in either -X or -Y direction during startup, verify that the length and width of your build space is correct in your slicing engine.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3207,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,electrophile,3.0576060275493275,3.469045931690484,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.265283966335819,Is z-axis zero near the hotend?,\"I'm in the process of building the D-Bot core XY printer, and I was hoping to know if the Z-axis 'zero' is near the hot end or near the bottom of the printer furthest away from the hotend? In this printer the Z-platform moves up and down and the nozzle stays at the same height.\n\",emackey,\"Generally, Z-axis zero is when the hot end and the build plate are close to each other. Some printers keep the hot end up at the top, and bring the build plate up to reach it. Other printers keep the build plate at the bottom, and lower the hot end down to reach it. As such, \"\"Z axis zero\"\" doesn't specify top or bottom of the physical printer, it just specifies that the hot end is right up against the build plate, ready to print its first layer. In the printer you describe, where the hot end remains at the top, that's where Z zero is.\n\nIn terms of the model being printed, Z axis zero is always the bottom of the model, the first layer to be deposited on the build plate. The numbers increase from there, either lifting the hot end up, or pushing the build plate down, depending on the design of the printer.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n3820,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,electrophile,2.528907649931287,5.042728722495092,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,What kind of aluminium grade for a heated 3D printer bed?,\"I'm replacing my standard MK3 Aluminium printing bed with a custom sized bed paired with a silicone heater. I came across a few on Amazon and they all have grades such as 6061, 3003, 5052 etc. I know these mean the composition of the Al alloy and their end purpose but I'm not sure what they mean in terms of being used for a 3D printer. Can anyone here advise me on this?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Various grades and alloys of aluminum will have characteristics related to ease of welding, resistance to corrosion, malleability, and other aspects. For a heated bed on a 3D printer, you'd really want to have something resistant to warping and something that can be assured to be planar across the surface, that is, flat.\n\nThe terminology you'd want to use for your search is \"\"MIC 6 Cast Aluminum Tooling Plate\"\" and the results are many.\n\nFrom a rather comprehensive web site:\n\nFlatness tolerance is maintained within .015\"\" on 1/4\"\"-5/8\"\" thickness and .005\"\" on 3/4\"\"- 4\"\" thickness. Thermal Cycling can be performed up to 800° F under controlled conditions.\n\nYou would want to confirm from the seller that the surface has been prepared, as some sites appear to sell un-finished tooling plate, but I've not been able to clarify that. Most appear to provide either no specifications regarding flatness or give a figure such as that above. \n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n5621,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,electrophile,3.0576060275493275,2.9728043627528558,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,RAMPS won't PID tune and shows unreal temps,\"About two days ago, I started seeing that my hotend was heating up erratically. I first noticed this while printing a part in PETG and the temp jumped to 260 °C. I shut down the printer at that time and first started checking the hardware. I noticed that the E3D V6 thermistor had been tightened too much. I disassembled the entire hotend, cleaned everything and then reassembled everything. I thought to retune the hotend and when I tried tuning it at 240 °C. \n\nThis is where the strange behavior occurs. The hotend steadily climbed up till about 200 °C. After that it just went nuts. I started seeing unreal temps such as 646 °C and such. At this point I thought the MEGA might be at fault. I replaced it and the hotend (an E3D V6 clone). This had the screw on glass thermistor. Again the same erratic behavior and unreal temp readings. \n\nWhat could be wrong here? What am I missing? Can this be the heater cartridge? \n\",Sean Houlihane,\"This can come from several sources:\n\nHardware\n\nThe thermistor or its connections might be damaged, and the fault is only observable when the hotend is hot or moved to a certain area. Start by checking the wiring! You may be able to repair a bad connection easily, but depending what was broken, you may need to replace something. In some cases squishing a thermistor cartridge too much can destroy the internals, so a replacement is needed.\n\nA mainboard failure is more likely to just show a static temperature, and a heater failure would show as maybe not getting past a certain point.\n\nFirmware\n\nIf it had not worked before or you changed the firmware, the firmware should also be a suspect. The firmware can 'fail' when using the wrong thermistor type/table which can result in a very big offset or bad slope, resulting in wrong or unaccurate readings.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n5621,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,electrophile,3.0576060275493275,2.9728043627528558,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,RAMPS won't PID tune and shows unreal temps,\"About two days ago, I started seeing that my hotend was heating up erratically. I first noticed this while printing a part in PETG and the temp jumped to 260 °C. I shut down the printer at that time and first started checking the hardware. I noticed that the E3D V6 thermistor had been tightened too much. I disassembled the entire hotend, cleaned everything and then reassembled everything. I thought to retune the hotend and when I tried tuning it at 240 °C. \n\nThis is where the strange behavior occurs. The hotend steadily climbed up till about 200 °C. After that it just went nuts. I started seeing unreal temps such as 646 °C and such. At this point I thought the MEGA might be at fault. I replaced it and the hotend (an E3D V6 clone). This had the screw on glass thermistor. Again the same erratic behavior and unreal temp readings. \n\nWhat could be wrong here? What am I missing? Can this be the heater cartridge? \n\",electrophile,\"One of the thermistor wires had come loose from the crimp ferrules. I re-crimped it and it works fine now. \n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n3197,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mishal,3.267423727073639,3.433715357735872,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,3D Molecular Printers,\"Are there commercially available molecular 3D printers that can create catalytic structures like Zeolites, if not are there any research efforts underway in such field? \n\",StarWind0,\"The link I mentioned from popular mechanics is the state of molecular 3d printing. So yes the printer does exist and can do some really impressive things. However as the article states it is limited to what it can create right now. The technology sounds really interesting. However it might be a bit out of our knowledge as it doesn't seem to be widely available passed the scientific academia world.\n\nThis link here talks about reactionware for Chemical Syntheses as well as a TED talk about it\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n3198,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SleepyBoBos,4.030301511886631,4.36059023314527,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.929104701733314,3.859356439026359,Reducing amount of material,\"Just started doing some design. First project was a replacement handle for my angle grinder, so basically a hollow cylinder. I want to reduce the amount of material used in the print. I could sit here and punch holes through the handle with a smaller cylinder, or some other shape etc., but is there an easier way to do this?\n\nIt must be a pretty common requirement, just like in the movies where the spies look at a photo and tell the tech to 'enhance ... enhance'. Ideally you could select a surface and overlay some sort of pattern to remove material.\n\",tbm0115,\"\"\"Just like the movies\"\"-type tech typically means $$$. \n\nFor those who do not own (legally or otherwise) expensive CAD software, it may be difficult to find an out-of-the-box solution. That's not to say that it can't be done.\n\nA close, readily available, solution would be to use a series of common CAD tools such as Shell and Scale. Between these functions, you should be able to scale a copy of your main solid object, then shell the new inner object. When sliced, the object should have a smaller \"\"inner wall\"\" and a hollow center. I would recommend this over 0% infill as a shell will not provide enough strength for the intended use you mentioned.\n\nThere is a great article on My3DMatter.com that provides details and a very interesting set of charts, outlining cost, speed, strength, and quality distributions at varying layer heights and infills.\n\nPlease Note: These results are going to differ between different material types, vendors, part shape, and infill pattern. These results were found printing from a MakerBot Replicator and presumably MakerBot-branded filament.\n\n\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n3198,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SleepyBoBos,4.030301511886631,4.36059023314527,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.929104701733314,3.859356439026359,Reducing amount of material,\"Just started doing some design. First project was a replacement handle for my angle grinder, so basically a hollow cylinder. I want to reduce the amount of material used in the print. I could sit here and punch holes through the handle with a smaller cylinder, or some other shape etc., but is there an easier way to do this?\n\nIt must be a pretty common requirement, just like in the movies where the spies look at a photo and tell the tech to 'enhance ... enhance'. Ideally you could select a surface and overlay some sort of pattern to remove material.\n\",StarWind0,\"Updated to match the improved question format.\n\nThere are a few ways to reduce material usage. First is what you have touched on. Which is to reduce the design by punching out holes, and removing all material that does not add anything to the structure. Even better is what you touched on, reducing it to the point where your print is more like a suspension bridge, where it is a the bare minimum scaffolding in a geometric pattern. \n\nMost tools you will find for reduction are like this tutorial from Shapeways on Meshlab where you reduce the surface detail. It might be worth exploring these a bet, however probably not what you really need.\n\nNext the more hard core cad tools such as solid works will allow you to preform Parametric optimizations and Topology Optimization.\nTopology Optimization. seems to be your real winner\n\n\n\nNow from the 3d printer standpoint we just simply tweak our slicer settings. There are entries for Infill. I usually print with 7% infill. AKA my print is 93% hollow inside. I then set a few solid shell layers. Think of solid shells as the skin. Usually that is enough to reduce my plastic usage. The only reason I don't make a part 100% hollow and a few solid skin / shell layers is that I need something to print on top of or if I need the part to be strong . Even low percent infill can be very strong if the correct geometric pattern is used (I.E. triangles).\n\nGenerally the reduced infill will be enough, unless you are making thousands of this item, though in that case you are probably not going to 3d print it anyways.\n\n\n\n3dprintingforbeginners has a nice article on the relationship between infill, number of shells and part strength. A bit more information about the terminology (infill/shells/etc...) can be found on 3D printing blog.\n\",3.367452517504837,0.0\n3213,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,MrOnkelChiller,3.618048892289167,4.521445274206295,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,First layer overlap on one side,\"When printing the first layer, the infill overlaps on just one side of my print. Thereupon there's a rough, and a lot higher, surface on the first few millimeters after the wall. \n\n\nPrinter: Arduino Materia 101\nFilament: Rec Pla\nTemp: 210 degrees\n\n\nI have tried to troubleshoot it, but I just found information about a problem when the infill isn't close enough to the wall everywhere.\n\nHowever, for me, the problem is the contrary and just on one side. \n\n\n\",tbm0115,\"This may be a result of an unlevel build plate (OP did not specify if calibration was done at time of writing).\n\nIf the area that is overlapping is higher (closer to the nozzle), the filament will be pushed down and around the nozzle as it extrudes in that area. This will result in excess filament overlapping unto other strands on the layer.\n\nPlease excuse my lack of artistic skills in paint, but the image below should illustrate what can happen when your build plate is unlevel:\n\n\n\nBasically what it's trying to illustrate is that if the nozzle is closer than the expected layer height, the machine will continue to flow as if the nozzle is layer height away. This typically results in a larger layer width because the nozzle is essentially pushing material out of the way.\n\nYou will notice that as you go further to the right in the drawing, that your layer may begin to \"\"thin out\"\" because if the nozzle more than a layer height away, the filament \"\"stretches\"\" until it settles on the build plate, resulting in a thinner layer width.\n\nIdeally, your nozzle will be parallel to your build plate at all points along the build space and the \"\"Standoff Distance\"\" will be equal to your layer height. So, you should see the top of your bead of filament at the same height as the bottom of your nozzle.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3213,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,MrOnkelChiller,3.618048892289167,4.521445274206295,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,First layer overlap on one side,\"When printing the first layer, the infill overlaps on just one side of my print. Thereupon there's a rough, and a lot higher, surface on the first few millimeters after the wall. \n\n\nPrinter: Arduino Materia 101\nFilament: Rec Pla\nTemp: 210 degrees\n\n\nI have tried to troubleshoot it, but I just found information about a problem when the infill isn't close enough to the wall everywhere.\n\nHowever, for me, the problem is the contrary and just on one side. \n\n\n\",StarWind0,\"Yes. That happens. I personally prefer this to the alternative which is it does not go far enough and curls back. That said depending on your slicer you will have a line overlap tolerance. But what's really happening is you are smooching your first layer. Aka your hot end is too high in relation to your first layer multiplier. \n\nFailing that and if you see it later in the print. Again I don't think you really can fix it but you should recalibrate your printers firmware, steps per mm and your slicers filament size. \n\nLooking at it I again it is a bit much. Maybe the plate is not flat. Does it happen on any other sides? After that we have the unlikely case your hotend is too hot. Which the slow down of the printer could cause too much material to ooze out. But I'm going to say plate level as number one suspicion. \n\n3D printing is a lot like trying to spin 3-4 plates at once.. if you still have issues I can expand more on calibration steps you need to do. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3220,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,celebnseventeen,2.8153892694839717,4.0358816850627095,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Small Z axis step: Repetier-Firmware,\"Z axis length for my printer equals 120 mm. When I manually pass this length, from display controller menu, it's about few millimeters. Then I set the resolution (ZAXIS_STEPS_PER_MM) at 1600 steps per mm. And nothing changed, step still very small.\n\nI use Repetier-Firmware, Arduino Mega+RAMPS 1.4, standard Nema 17 steppers and Prusa i3 like cartesian printer.\n\nThis is hardware or software problem? I checked the steppers, they're fine.\n\",celebnseventeen,\"I solved this problem by change EEPROM value to \"\"2\"\" in Configuration.h:\n\n#define EEPROM_MODE 2\n\n\nNow ZAXIS_STEPS_PER_MM value load from firmware, not EEPROM.\n\n#define EEPROM_MODE 0\n\n\n— does not result in my case.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3222,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jason,2.8153892694839717,4.110615265422881,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Opening .STL to scale in Print Studio (Dremel),\"New to 3D printing so sorry if this is a simple/basic question. I've done a ton of Googling but can't seem to find the answer...\n\nWhen I download a .STL file and open it in Print Studio, it opens as a HUGE object - much larger than you would ever want it. How to I get the file to open at scale to how the designer wanted it. For instance the following file from Thingaverse has specific size but I'm unsure of how to print it at that exact size. I'm assuming that the info is able to be stored somewhere in the .STL file.\n\nhttp://www.thingiverse.com/make:181631\n\",Jay,\"The STL file format does not provide any way to provide the units of measurement for an object. The majority of FDM printers use millimeters so most people export objects with the assumption the values in the STL file are in millimeters.\n\nAs you found out that's not always true. The second most common assumption is to export in inches.\n\nMost of the slicers I've used provide a scaling option if you can't edit the STL file yourself. Some will even offer to do the inches to mm conversion for you. Scale to suit when you print or use a 3d editor. I've gotten specific sizes by creating a temporary cube the size I wanted and scaling the object using the cube as a reference.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3225,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Onno,1.0891412423578797,5.671628929574052,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Anet board - MOSFET replacement?,\"To learn about printing, and to print the parts for a printer of my own design later on, I've ordered an Anet A8.\n\nI just saw this video, Anet A8 3D printer Review. all you need to know. This guy recommends using an external MOSFET. I was wondering if using a relay instead would also make it safe?\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"There are two areas of this design which seem to pose a risk of connectors overheating, the hot end and the heated bed. The heated bed runs at about 6 amps, 12 Volts. The hot end runs at a lower current, but can itself overheat if the thermistor stops providing feedback.\n\nThe problem in this design with the heated bed is mainly the connectors - they work OK when they are good, but can easily come a bit loose. This has two side effects. The bed heats less well, and the connector itself heats instead. Replacing the 2mm plug connector, and 2mm molex with direct soldered connections will help (the on-board mosfet seems OK with the current, unless you increase the power rail voltage).\n\nA mosfet is a good solution for high current switching, the modules available have good screw terminals which should be OK for maybe 25A (well in excess of what you need). Mosfets are efficient when switched fully on, so there won't be much heating.\n\nYou would also use a relay (rated for at least 10A), but this will be noisy since the heater is switched repeatedly to maintain the target temperature. A relay also takes more power itself and will ear out if repeatedly switched under load.\n\nBottom line, if you have a good relay already, it is OK as a temporary (safe) solution. Longer-term a mosfet is better. Pay attention to the connectors at power supply, board (in and out) and heated bed. Using an additional mosfet for the hotend is maybe overkill.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n3351,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Onno,1.0891412423578797,5.385382829385634,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,0.9784382375735183,Connecting an inductive sensor to the Anet A8,\"I bought an Anet A8 over christmas. When I bought my printer from Gearbest, I also bought the inductive sensor that they sell.\n\nIt doesn't seem to work, and I think it might be broken. However, I have no idea how I can test if it is broken. This is what the wiring looks like and how it's connected to the board\n\nI'm not sure if I need to modify the wiring in order to hook it up to the A8's motherboard. I have no idea what the pinout is on the A8's mobo, and it's not indicated either. Most guides deal with using RAMPS when it comes to installing such a sensor. I'd like to know how to connect this to my board, if possible.\n\nThe printer works fine otherwise, so I don't think the board is broken or anything. For now I've resumed using the normal endstop, but I would like to enable bed levelling by installing this sensor. (or a different one if necessary)\n\nHow do I get this working?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"I am not entirely familiar with the ANET A8 electronics, but it's very unlikely it's any different from how any other mainboard works, so any instructions that work for RAMPS should work for your board as well.\n\nThe sensor you linked to has an operating voltage range of \"\"6V to 36V\"\". However, the endstop connectors (on any mainboard I've come across) only provide 5V - not enough for the sensor to work. You could verify that this is also the case for your ANET board with a multimeter.\n\n(Assuming the colour coding is standard) you'll need to connect the black wire to GND, the red wire to 12V, and the yellow wire through a diode to the signal pin of the endstop connector. The anode of the diode should connect to the signal pin and the cathode to the wire coming from the sensor.\n\nThe diode is required, because otherwise the 12V signal from the sensor will damage your electronics, which can only accept 5V. Any ordinary diode will do (for instance 1N4148). You should enable endstop pullups in your firmware when using this method (though if your board already has physical pullups this is not necessary but won't hurt either).\n\nNote that if the sensor is inductive, it will also need an appropriate (metal) surface to trigger off. Unfortunately, it is not clear from the product description what type of sensor you have bought, and (amusingly) gearbest doesn't know either:\n\n\n Question:\n \n Hello, is this Sensor capazitiv or induktiv? Thank you verry much.\n \n Reply:\n \n It is an auto leveling sensor for 3D printers\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3351,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Onno,1.0891412423578797,5.385382829385634,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,0.9784382375735183,Connecting an inductive sensor to the Anet A8,\"I bought an Anet A8 over christmas. When I bought my printer from Gearbest, I also bought the inductive sensor that they sell.\n\nIt doesn't seem to work, and I think it might be broken. However, I have no idea how I can test if it is broken. This is what the wiring looks like and how it's connected to the board\n\nI'm not sure if I need to modify the wiring in order to hook it up to the A8's motherboard. I have no idea what the pinout is on the A8's mobo, and it's not indicated either. Most guides deal with using RAMPS when it comes to installing such a sensor. I'd like to know how to connect this to my board, if possible.\n\nThe printer works fine otherwise, so I don't think the board is broken or anything. For now I've resumed using the normal endstop, but I would like to enable bed levelling by installing this sensor. (or a different one if necessary)\n\nHow do I get this working?\n\",Anupam Chawaria,\"You will have to:\n\n\nFind and print something on Thingiverse to mount sensor;\nChange firmware to Skynet and change the offset values accordingly, in order for the new sensor to recognize the bed.\n\n\nThere is official Facebook page of Anet A8 printers as well as Skynet firmware. You can ask there if you need further help. Though the above steps are easy. \n\",0.0,0.0\n3226,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tyler Durden,1.726248027126092,2.877598637377739,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Photogrammetry using pure rotation?,\"I have a set of 42 images made as a rotation around the object and it is failing to generate a model in Visual SFM. From what I can gather, the problem is that just doing a rotation is insufficient. There must photographs taken from above as well.\n\nIs there any way to avoid the need for high angle shots, and just use rotational shots and still get a 3D model from Visual SFM?\n\",jsejcksn,\"This is not a problem specific to Visual SFM, but a general technical problem. The software cannot accurately determine the depth of the pieces which approach perpendicularity with the camera lens. The software uses those varying measurements and estimated angles to calculate the geometry. Check out the law of cosines.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3227,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Cates Greene,1.0891412423578797,3.851419429270912,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"Can the da Vinci Jr 1.0 print in 100 microns, if so how?\",\"I was wondering if the da Vinci Jr. 1.0 can print in 100 μm layer height.\n\nIf so, how could I do this?\n\",Greenonline,\"I will attempt to answer your question, as it stands. \n\nDealing with the first part, according to the product specifications, the resolution, or layer thickness, is indeed 100 μm, when printing using the Fine setting.\n\n\n Resolution\n \n Fine 0.1 mm (100 microns)\n \n Standard 0.2 mm (200 microns)\n \n Speed 0.3 mm (300 microns)\n \n Ultra Fast 0.4 mm (400 microns)\n\n\nWith respect to the second part of your question, how could I do this? You simply put the printer into Fine mode, and the resulting print will be printed with 100 μm thick layers.\n\nIf this is not what you wanted to ask, then please clarify your question.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3233,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BackSlash,3.767809650974757,5.500274406544838,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Calculating the estimated print time of an already sliced file,\"I started to write an application that calculates the estimated total print time from the G-code file for an already sliced model.\n\nThe program works and it's pretty accurate.\n\nIt works as follows: \n\n\nIt scans the entire G-code file to identify all of the movements\nIt calculates the time for each move by dividing segment distance by the speed in mm/s.\n\n\nLet's assume this is the G-code:\n\nG28 ; home all axes\nG1 Z0.200 F5400.000\nG1 X158.878 Y27.769 E6.65594 F900.000\n\n\nThis is the calculation it does:\n\ntotalTime = 0\n\n# G28 ; home all axes\ncurrentX = 0 mm\ncurrentY = 0 mm\ncurrentZ = 0 mm\n\n# G1 Z0.200 F5400.000\nnewZ = 0.2 mm\nmmPerSecond = 5400 / 60 = 90 mm/s\ndeltaZ = newZ - currentZ = 0.2 - 0 = 0.2 mm\nsegmentLength = deltaZ = 0.2 mm\nmoveTime = segmentLength / mmPerSecond = 0.2 / 90 = 0.002 s\ntotalTime = totalTime + moveTime = 0 + 0.002 = 0.002 s\n\n# G1 X158.878 Y27.769 E6.65594 F900.000\nnewX = 158.878 mm\nnewY = 27.769 mm\nmmPerSecond = 900 / 60 = 15 mm/s\ndeltaX = newX - currentX = 158.878 - 0 = 158.878 mm\ndeltaY = newY - currentY = 27.769 - 0 = 27.769 mm\nsegmentLength = square_root(deltaX² + deltaY²) = 161.287 mm\nmoveTime = deltaZ / mmPerSecond = 161.287 / 15 = 10.755 s\ntotalTime = totalTime + moveTime = 0.002 + 10.755 = 10.757 s\n\n\nIn this example, the print will take approximately 10.7 seconds.\n\nMore generally, the formula used is, for each movement:\n\nmoveTime = segmentLength / mmPerSecond\n\n\nBy summing up all the move times, we have the total estimated print time.\n\nI've seen that some forums state that the 3D print time also depends on some settings on the 3D printer, especially Acceleration X, Acceleration Y, Acceleration Z, Jerk, and Z-Jerk.\n\nI'd like to make it possible to use those values to more accurately calculate print time; however, I don't understand how those values affect the move time:\n\n\nHow should Acceleration and Jerk be considered; and, how do they speed up or slow down the print time? \nHow should I edit my formula in order to include Acceleration and Jerk in the print time calculation?\n\n\",user802599,\"I have tried looking into the printer firmware to see how the Acceleration setting affects the machine movement. From what I could tell, Acceleration seemed to be implemented differently depending on what firmware I looked at and was also affected by what the settings used on the printer were. I didn't look any further because writing different rules for every different firmware seemed like too much trouble. Maybe someone that knows more about this would know if most firmware uses the same calculations. \n\nI suspect that the acceleration setting will not make a lot of difference to the time that the print takes. They haven't seemed to make a difference on the small prints that I have done printing with slow speeds. If you were printing larger prints at faster speeds that had long paths where the nozzle had time to accelerate and decelerate then I suspect you would notice a bigger difference with the time.\n\nI have found that the biggest error between the predicted time and the actual time has been the time the machine spends processing the instructions. When printing a model that has a lot of short movements that need to be sent to the printer and they need to be processed and calculated by the printer, I have noticed the printer will pause for a fraction of a second. It is not long enough to see a difference in the printers movements, but it is noticeable enough to hear. I suspect that on cheaper printers this would cause a bigger error than the acceleration. \n\nIf someone can find out how the acceleration settings are calculated by the printer and what G-code command can be used to get the acceleration settings out of the printer, I would be really interested in knowing more about this.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n3233,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BackSlash,3.767809650974757,5.500274406544838,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Calculating the estimated print time of an already sliced file,\"I started to write an application that calculates the estimated total print time from the G-code file for an already sliced model.\n\nThe program works and it's pretty accurate.\n\nIt works as follows: \n\n\nIt scans the entire G-code file to identify all of the movements\nIt calculates the time for each move by dividing segment distance by the speed in mm/s.\n\n\nLet's assume this is the G-code:\n\nG28 ; home all axes\nG1 Z0.200 F5400.000\nG1 X158.878 Y27.769 E6.65594 F900.000\n\n\nThis is the calculation it does:\n\ntotalTime = 0\n\n# G28 ; home all axes\ncurrentX = 0 mm\ncurrentY = 0 mm\ncurrentZ = 0 mm\n\n# G1 Z0.200 F5400.000\nnewZ = 0.2 mm\nmmPerSecond = 5400 / 60 = 90 mm/s\ndeltaZ = newZ - currentZ = 0.2 - 0 = 0.2 mm\nsegmentLength = deltaZ = 0.2 mm\nmoveTime = segmentLength / mmPerSecond = 0.2 / 90 = 0.002 s\ntotalTime = totalTime + moveTime = 0 + 0.002 = 0.002 s\n\n# G1 X158.878 Y27.769 E6.65594 F900.000\nnewX = 158.878 mm\nnewY = 27.769 mm\nmmPerSecond = 900 / 60 = 15 mm/s\ndeltaX = newX - currentX = 158.878 - 0 = 158.878 mm\ndeltaY = newY - currentY = 27.769 - 0 = 27.769 mm\nsegmentLength = square_root(deltaX² + deltaY²) = 161.287 mm\nmoveTime = deltaZ / mmPerSecond = 161.287 / 15 = 10.755 s\ntotalTime = totalTime + moveTime = 0.002 + 10.755 = 10.757 s\n\n\nIn this example, the print will take approximately 10.7 seconds.\n\nMore generally, the formula used is, for each movement:\n\nmoveTime = segmentLength / mmPerSecond\n\n\nBy summing up all the move times, we have the total estimated print time.\n\nI've seen that some forums state that the 3D print time also depends on some settings on the 3D printer, especially Acceleration X, Acceleration Y, Acceleration Z, Jerk, and Z-Jerk.\n\nI'd like to make it possible to use those values to more accurately calculate print time; however, I don't understand how those values affect the move time:\n\n\nHow should Acceleration and Jerk be considered; and, how do they speed up or slow down the print time? \nHow should I edit my formula in order to include Acceleration and Jerk in the print time calculation?\n\n\",R..,\"First of all, there are some nice open source analyzers written in JavaScript that you can use online, or read the source to, at https://www.gcodeanalyser.com/ and http://gcode.ws/. Their predictions don't fully match actual printer firmware, but they do a reasonably close job, and reading them would be informative.\n\nBasically, the story behind acceleration and jerk is that you can't change the velocity (speed or direction) of the print head instantaneously. It takes time to speed up and slow down. Acceleration is the max rate at which the velocity of the print head can change. Jerk is something of a misnomer/hack, and is the max fake-instantaneous change in velocity allowed at the junction of two segments/curves. The point of jerk is to avoid choppy motion when moving along a curve made up of many segments by accelerating/decelerating at each tiny corner. Note that there are two sets of settings for both acceleration and jerk:\n\n\na maximum absolute value (3D vector length) that frequently changed as part of the gcode in order to use different acceleration profiles for print moves vs travel moves, walls vs infill, etc.\nper-axis absolute values (standard 1D absolute value) for the limitations of the machine, that are usually set in the printer's settings or the start gcode profile for your printer and never changed.\n\n\nMovement is constrained to always respect both sets of settings.\n\nPrinter firmware uses acceleration and jerk settings along with lookahead at upcoming motion commands to decide how to actually operate the motors. When it starts a motion, it has to accelerate up to the configured max velocity within the acceleration constraints. It also has to start slowing back down midway through unless it knows the next motion is going to continue in the exact same direction; how much it has to slow down depends on the difference in the vectors of motion. If the next motion is going to be in approximately the same direction, it may be able to avoid slowing down by using the jerk allowance to make an \"\"instantaneous\"\" change of velocity at the corner. Only if you have long (relative to speed) linear or approximately linear motions will you ever actually reach the requested speed.\n\nSo, to estimate print time, you need to model this. Keep track of print head velocity while processing/simulating the gcode, and for each motion command, compute velocity as a function of time using the acceleration limits (accelerating at the max rate they allow). You also need to figure out the final velocity you want to end the motion with in order to be able to start the next motion command, and a point to start decelerating if necessary to reach that.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n3487,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BackSlash,2.8153892694839717,4.264003708874216,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.306096197889172,How to unclog a clogged extruder?,\"I have a Wanhao Duplicator i3 v2 (A.K.A. Maker Select, Cocoon Create).\n\nMy extruder got clogged: I noticed that it wasn't extruding, so I stopped my print, removed the fan, heatsink and the extruder motor and I saw that the clog is at the heater block level.\n\nThis is a what I have:\n\n\n\n\n\nAs you can see, there is some PLA clogged at the very beginning of the 1.75mm hole in the extruder block.\n\nI can see there is something white inside (a stone? something that is not PLA?). I tried to heat up the extruder to 250°C and pushing with an hex tool but the block did not move. \n\nI solved a lot of clogged nozzle issues with the cold pull method, it always worked like a charm, this time I tried too but as a result the PLA filament broke and the \"\"stone\"\" is still there.\n\nDoes anyone know if there is a way to unclog the extruder in this situation?\n\nDo I have to change it?\n\",StarWind0,\"Steps:\n\n\nTake the tip off, assuming it has a tip.\nHeat up the extruder.\nTake a length of plastic and push it though the extruder.\nIf the tip is clogged, then take a micro hand drill to clear the blockage.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3487,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BackSlash,2.8153892694839717,4.264003708874216,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.306096197889172,How to unclog a clogged extruder?,\"I have a Wanhao Duplicator i3 v2 (A.K.A. Maker Select, Cocoon Create).\n\nMy extruder got clogged: I noticed that it wasn't extruding, so I stopped my print, removed the fan, heatsink and the extruder motor and I saw that the clog is at the heater block level.\n\nThis is a what I have:\n\n\n\n\n\nAs you can see, there is some PLA clogged at the very beginning of the 1.75mm hole in the extruder block.\n\nI can see there is something white inside (a stone? something that is not PLA?). I tried to heat up the extruder to 250°C and pushing with an hex tool but the block did not move. \n\nI solved a lot of clogged nozzle issues with the cold pull method, it always worked like a charm, this time I tried too but as a result the PLA filament broke and the \"\"stone\"\" is still there.\n\nDoes anyone know if there is a way to unclog the extruder in this situation?\n\nDo I have to change it?\n\",BackSlash,\"I'm sure this is not the best solution, and if you have some ethyl acetate you should try that before going \"\"the hard way\"\".\n\nEthyl acetate is a solvent for PLA, so if you soak the extruder into it PLA should melt and free the extruder.\n\nThat said, this is the \"\"hard\"\" solution that worked for me.\n\n\n\nYou'll need:\n\n\nA drill\nA 1mm drill bit\nA 1.5mm drill bit\n\n\nInsert the 1mm drill bit into the drill. If your drill has a setting to reduce the drilling speed, take this to the minimum speed. If your drill doesn't have such options, you'll need to push the drill button very gently.\n\nPut the drill bit on the pla block (be sure to not touch the cooling block, you might ruin it). Start drilling at the minimum speed and push very gently, until you get a side-to-side hole on the PLA (you know it because you feel no resistance at all while pushing the drill).\n\nTake the 1.5mm drill bit and repeat the same operation. At this point my PLA block literally exploded (now I have some broken PLA inside my room, don't know where) and the extruder was finally free.\n\nI hope this helps someone. Please notice that you need to be very gentle in order to avoid breaking parts of your extruder, but if I managed to do it, you can do it too ;)\n\nAs previously said, if you have ethyl acetate try soaking the extruder into it to make PLA dissolve before trying this. Try this solution only if all other options didn't help.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n3814,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BackSlash,3.0576060275493275,4.697435240660855,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.082726318457765,Why 3d print has an ugly surface?,\"Lately I'm having some issues with white PLA.\n\nIt sticks nicely to the print bed, but the very last layer of the print comes out really ugly.\n\nI'm not a native english speaker, I don't know what is the proper term to describe what I see, so I'm attaching two pictures instead:\n\n\n\n\nAs you can see, the surface has wrinkles. If you touch it, it feels like a jaggled surface. What is causing this? I've never had this kind of issue before with the same PLA roll, what can be the issue?\n\nI have a prusa-style printer, 45°C printbed, 225°C hotend, 10% hexagonal infill, 30mm/s print speed. The object stays on the surface without warping, I can tell for sure that it isn't detaching from the bed and coming up towards the extruder.\n\nIt happens only for infill, perimeters are just perfect.\n\nWhat can be the issue here?\n\",Diesel,\"This appears to be the result of your hot end (nozzle) temperature being slightly too high. \n\nI'd recommend lowering your nozzle temperature by a few degrees and retrying the print. If the quality improves you're good. If it doesn't improve significantly try lowering a few degrees more. \n\nIf you lower the nozzle temperature to the point that you start having other adverse effects, try going back to the lowest temperature that works and check your infill and shell settings. The top shell of your part may be too thin given the span (top surface, maximum travel length). i.e. the strands being printed on the top of your part are sagging between your infil hex's, by thickening this part in the slicer settings the next layer on the roof won't sag as much as the previous.\n\nBy increasing your number of shells or shell thickness (or roof thickness, i'm not sure on the exact terminology) you could effectively hide the effect you're seeing by thickening this section of your part. \n\nBest guess though is nozzle is a bit too hot.\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n3814,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BackSlash,3.0576060275493275,4.697435240660855,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.082726318457765,Why 3d print has an ugly surface?,\"Lately I'm having some issues with white PLA.\n\nIt sticks nicely to the print bed, but the very last layer of the print comes out really ugly.\n\nI'm not a native english speaker, I don't know what is the proper term to describe what I see, so I'm attaching two pictures instead:\n\n\n\n\nAs you can see, the surface has wrinkles. If you touch it, it feels like a jaggled surface. What is causing this? I've never had this kind of issue before with the same PLA roll, what can be the issue?\n\nI have a prusa-style printer, 45°C printbed, 225°C hotend, 10% hexagonal infill, 30mm/s print speed. The object stays on the surface without warping, I can tell for sure that it isn't detaching from the bed and coming up towards the extruder.\n\nIt happens only for infill, perimeters are just perfect.\n\nWhat can be the issue here?\n\",3dp_pro,\"This looks like the air trapped inside the print is expanding, causing wavy surfaces. This can be solved by lowering nozzle temperatures, and turning on the fan.\n\",0.0,0.0\n4149,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BackSlash,2.528907649931287,4.871967244301704,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,E3D V6 underextruding always?,\"I have an E3D v6 1.75mm bowden. \n\nWhen I print, there is a gap between infill lines, and also when printing rectilinear/hexagonal infill lines seem to be pretty slim.\n\nMy settings:\n\n\nSlicer: Slic3r\nNozzle size: 0.4mm\nPrint speed: 30mm/s\nFirst layer print speed: 15mm/s\nTravel speed: 90mm/s\nRetraction length: 0.8mm\nRetraction speed: 40mm/s\nExtrude ratio: 1 (tried also with 0.48mm extrusion width, I remember it's the default S3D setting, so I gave it a try)\nPrint temperature: 220 °C\nMaterial: PLA\n\n\nFirmware settings:\n\n\nFirmware: Marlin 1.1.0-1\nMotion system: CoreXY\nAcceleration: 1000\nVMax X: 300\nVMax Y: 300\nVMax Z: 5\nVMax E: 80\nXsteps/mm: 80.05\nYsteps/mm: 80.05\nZsteps/mm: 400\nEsteps/mm: 96.5\n\n\nDisclaimer: I set Esteps/mm to 96.5 because I calibrated the printer as described here, so I'm 100% sure it's an accurate setting. Same for X,Y,Z steps. I printed a cube and calculated the real steps per millimeter, and it's accurate too. The extruder motor works, it's not the issue.\n\nHere you can find some pictures that show what I'm trying to describe:\n\n\nWhile printing I tried to release the extruder motor clamp and push the filament by hand: it extruded 1mm thick lines, so the extruder is not clogged and is perfectly capable of extruding the required amount of PLA.\n\nIs it possible that the VMax E parameter is preventing the extruder motor to extrude properly? I mean, could it be that it's trying to extrude at a higher speed than the maximum allowed? Seems weird to me, because comments in Marlin's Configuration.h file say Default Max Feed Rate (mm/s) for that parameter, so if the limit is set to 80mm/s it should extrude just fine. If this is the issue, how should I solve it? \n\",Mikhail Z,\"Major factors affecting extrusion:\n\n\nNozzle diameter\nExtrusion ratio\nExtrusion stepper calibration\nFilament actual diameter\nExtrusion width setting\nNozzle temperature\n\n\nAccording to the photos, temperature is acceptable (may be a bit high, but it is not a problem in this case). Extrusion ratio is 1 and should not be changed in normal operation. Extrusion width is often set to auto but sometimes calibrating it gives better results in slic3r. If stepper is calibrated properly, then I would check for nozzle and filament diameters. For nozzle it should be enough to verify that 0.4 bit fits in and 0.5 doesn't. Filament can be measured by digital caliper. Difference between 1.75 and 1.73mm may have significant difference resulting in under-extrusion.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4432,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BackSlash,2.528907649931287,4.7933649986955364,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Which choices do we have on Daylight Resins?,\"I'm planning to make an LCD Resin printer. I'm still learning and I found out that I need daylight resin (which hardens when white light comes from the LCD).\n\nIf I search for \"\"Daylight resin\"\" on Google, the only \"\"useful\"\" result I find is for Photocentric.\n\n\n\nPhotocentric sells Daylight resins and the prices seem to be good too; however, I'm trying to search for alternatives. I'm not interested in something cheaper, I'd like to choose a resin which has more colors. Photocentric's hard resin only comes in cream/green/gray colors. I would need at least white/black/transparent resin.\n\nIs it the only option we have? Are there any other manufacturer out there which produces Daylight resin/LCD-hardening resin with a variety of colors?\n\",Shahin,\"Daylight resin choice is extremely limited. And would not get much better at-least in short term. Majority of new LCD based 3D printers are using UV LED.\n\nCheckout Wanhao D7, Phrozen3d and other newly released 3D printers.\n\nI strongly advice you to checkout Ionel Ciobanuc progress on his printer.\n\nHe starts by making the first LCD based 3D printer actually works! to modify his printer to make it another UV LCD 3D Printer. \n\nFrom the progress it is very clear why everyone adding UV LED to their LCD 3D printers.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4432,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BackSlash,2.528907649931287,4.7933649986955364,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Which choices do we have on Daylight Resins?,\"I'm planning to make an LCD Resin printer. I'm still learning and I found out that I need daylight resin (which hardens when white light comes from the LCD).\n\nIf I search for \"\"Daylight resin\"\" on Google, the only \"\"useful\"\" result I find is for Photocentric.\n\n\n\nPhotocentric sells Daylight resins and the prices seem to be good too; however, I'm trying to search for alternatives. I'm not interested in something cheaper, I'd like to choose a resin which has more colors. Photocentric's hard resin only comes in cream/green/gray colors. I would need at least white/black/transparent resin.\n\nIs it the only option we have? Are there any other manufacturer out there which produces Daylight resin/LCD-hardening resin with a variety of colors?\n\",markshancock,\"It looks like Ono may fit what you are looking for.\nThey have several colors listed on their site.\n\nRed Blue\n\nYellow Black\n\nClear Creamy White \n\nThey also have a flexible resin and a low temperature \"\"casting\"\" resin.\n\nIt is unclear if the resin is available now or if it is preorder.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n4545,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BackSlash,2.528907649931287,4.869190859626168,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Marlin acceleration issue on corners,\"I use Simplify3D to slice my prints, and I've set it to print everything with 4000 Acceleration and 50 Acceleration for outer perimeters only.\n\nEverything works fine, Marlin changes acceleration settings without issues, but with low accelerations my corners are bigger than they should:\n\n\n\nThe object I'm printing is this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2478785\n\nAs you can see in the model, highlighted parts in the picture should have 90° corners with perfect straight lines.\n\nIt seems that Marlin adjusts acceleration just for print speed, without adjusting it too for the extruder, so the extruder extrudes a constant amount of filament, which on slow speeds (corners) results in an overextrusion and on high speeds (lines) results in an underextrusion, causing bad corners and inaccurate prints.\n\nThis happens with acceleration between 50 and 300. If I use 1000 as acceleration for perimeters the problem is gone, but I need to use small numbers in order to have clean corners and avoid ghosting.\n\nAm I the only one experiencing this? What could be causing the issue?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"\n It seems that Marlin adjusts acceleration just for print speed, without adjusting it too for the extruder, so the extruder extrudes a constant amount of filament, which on slow speeds (corners) results in an overextrusion and on high speeds (lines) results in an underextrusion, causing bad corners and inaccurate prints.\n\n\nThis is not the case. Marlin accelerates the extruder perfectly in sync with the printhead, and the speed of the extruder is perfectly proportional to the movement speed. However, the extruder itself has a certain amount of \"\"lag\"\": as you feed in filament, pressure builds up. As you stop feeding filament (or slow down), the built up pressure causes the extrusion to continue for a while. Thus, even with \"\"correct\"\" control of the extruder, you don't necessarily get the desired amount of extrusion.\n\nMarlin has a feature, that you can enable in the advanced configuration file, called \"\"extruder advance\"\". It looks at the acceleration/deceleration of the extruder, and advances the extruder a few extra steps when the speed increases, and backs it off again as the speed decreases. You will need to tune this feature to get rid of the overextrusion at the corners.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4601,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BackSlash,2.528907649931287,3.841500735601597,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,What choices do we have on Clear resins for DLP?,\"I'm searching for a truly clear DLP resin which can polymerize between 400nm and 405nm.\n\nI found the unpigmented from FunToDo, but it seems to be yellow-clear:\n\n\n\nI'm trying to achieve something similar to this:\n\n\n\nIs there any resin out there which costs likely the same (about 50€/liter) which will give results like this?\n\",Nach0z,\"Formlabs sells a completely clear resin that they've even made simple lenses from, but it's about $150 for a liter. I have no idea how well it would work with your DLP setup. Looks amazing in the pictures though. \n\nMatterHackers sells PhotoCentric UV Firm Clear for $90 for a liter as well. It's not quite as easy finding pictures of this stuff, but from what it looks like, it's still pretty decent. Assuming you've got a UV DLP \n\nDisclaimer, the PhotoCentric stuff says it's a UV resin (10nm to 400nm IIRC) and I have not the slightest clue what Formlabs designs their resin for, so YMMV.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4646,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BackSlash,3.267423727073639,4.570509644496979,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,-0.551027839747059,Managing LEDs with NanoDLP,\"I'm building my own DLP printer with UV LEDs. I use a 20A relay to power them on, since they require high power and can't be directly driven by arduino or Raspberry.\n\nI'm planning to use them with NanoDLP on Raspberry + GRBL on Arduino.\n\nIs it possible to make NanoDLP tell GRBL to power on (send digital 1/+5V) the relay when the print starts and power it off (send digital 0/GND) when the print ends?\n\nThe other way would be to just install an on/off switch and do it manually, but I feel this step should be automated somehow.\n\nIs there a way to do it?\n\",Seen Green,\"Franco Cicero is completely correct there is an option to control your printer by using the GPIO of the Raspi. To do this you still need a stepper driver motor or some interface between the GPIO and the steppers/LED/etc.\n\nMore info here: http://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3772\n\nYou should really control the LEDs using a mosfet, or even a solid state relay and not just keep them on all the time. The lights should ideally switch on and off for each layer.\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4646,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BackSlash,3.267423727073639,4.570509644496979,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,-0.551027839747059,Managing LEDs with NanoDLP,\"I'm building my own DLP printer with UV LEDs. I use a 20A relay to power them on, since they require high power and can't be directly driven by arduino or Raspberry.\n\nI'm planning to use them with NanoDLP on Raspberry + GRBL on Arduino.\n\nIs it possible to make NanoDLP tell GRBL to power on (send digital 1/+5V) the relay when the print starts and power it off (send digital 0/GND) when the print ends?\n\nThe other way would be to just install an on/off switch and do it manually, but I feel this step should be automated somehow.\n\nIs there a way to do it?\n\",towe,\"I have no experience with either GRBL or DLP printers, but the\n\nM7\nM8\nM9\n\n\ncoolant control codes should be able to be sent by NanoDLP to GRBL. Those seem to allow for direct digital output.\nApparently you can set the pin you want them to use in the cpu_map.h file, with the standard being Analog Pins 3 and 4 for the M8 and M7 commands respectively.\n\n// Define flood and mist coolant enable output pins. \n#define COOLANT_FLOOD_DDR DDRC \n#define COOLANT_FLOOD_PORT PORTC \n#define COOLANT_FLOOD_BIT 3 // Uno Analog Pin 3 \n#define COOLANT_MIST_DDR DDRC \n#define COOLANT_MIST_PORT PORTC \n#define COOLANT_MIST_BIT 4 // Uno Analog Pin 4 \n\n\nHope this helps!\nSource: https://github.com/gnea/grbl\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3238,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sajeeb,2.1782824847157594,4.301998074222566,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Change 1.75 mm 3D printer to 3.0 mm printer,\"I am planning on buying a cheap 3D printer to get into 3D printing, but the printer I'm planning to buy only takes 1.75 mm filament, I was wondering if it might be possible to change the hotend of that printer or something to take in 3.0 mm filament, the reason I want to use 3.0 mm filament is because it is cheaper than 1.75 mm filament. \n\nThe printer that I'm planning on buying, on eBay, is this \nAluminium-Auto-Leveling-3D-Printer-DIY-KIT-X3A-MK8-Extruder-LCD-2004A-Cover-Box.\n\",StarWind0,\"First it really depends on your printer / extruder. That said generally 1.75 is cheaper and much more common.\n\nIf one were to change the hotend, likely you will need to replace most or all of the hot end. In the case of my personal hot ends, when I did this conversion I had to replace both the tube and the PETF lined mouth. I did not have to replace the tip, core, or the thermsister.\n\nMy advice is to pick a different printer. You see 3mm on older extruders like J head direct gear 3-4 years ago and bowden style (like the ultimaker) use 3mm. \n\nPossible yes, advised, no. \n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3243,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris Rutherford,3.767809650974757,4.927811551532717,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.488653845767225,Producing closely fitting parts,\"I would really like to be able to print moving parts that fit well enough to move without excessive friction, but also aren't excessively loose. Using an Ultimaker 2, what should be my expectations be, and how would I go about produce well fitting parts?\n\nUsing a tool like Openscad to generate parametric parts is really useful because it facilitates the creation of geometrically precise parts such as cogs and drive shafts, which also have precise dimensions. The problem arises when the parts are printed and joined together. \n\nI recently printed some cogs that were supposed to be able to rotate freely around a shaft, which was also printed. I made the shaft about 0.1 mm smaller than the center hole of the cog expecting it to be able to rotate freely, however I found that I had to bore out the center hole slightly and sand down the shaft. I then found that the boring was imprecise and the center of rotation was off center. \n\",tbm0115,\"I think that you've got the right idea in concept, but benchmarking is typically the best way to prove this out.\n\nYou should get in the habit of designing with assembly in mind. This means:\n\n\nHole sizes should be larger than intended and/or shafts should be smaller than intended\nScaling does not always solve the issue! Avoid relying on scale tools as it can result in reducing/enlarging features you did not intend to scale\nMy own experience has shown that a clearance of about 0.005\"\" to 0.010\"\" (~125μm to ~250μm) should be enough. However it may be different for your situation with a different printer, filament, climate, etc.\nAlso consider material shrinkage from the printing process!\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3243,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris Rutherford,3.767809650974757,4.927811551532717,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.488653845767225,Producing closely fitting parts,\"I would really like to be able to print moving parts that fit well enough to move without excessive friction, but also aren't excessively loose. Using an Ultimaker 2, what should be my expectations be, and how would I go about produce well fitting parts?\n\nUsing a tool like Openscad to generate parametric parts is really useful because it facilitates the creation of geometrically precise parts such as cogs and drive shafts, which also have precise dimensions. The problem arises when the parts are printed and joined together. \n\nI recently printed some cogs that were supposed to be able to rotate freely around a shaft, which was also printed. I made the shaft about 0.1 mm smaller than the center hole of the cog expecting it to be able to rotate freely, however I found that I had to bore out the center hole slightly and sand down the shaft. I then found that the boring was imprecise and the center of rotation was off center. \n\",Golightly,\"I can't attest to the empirical data laid out in the first answer, but I've had to deal with a lot of components printed in two parts to be connected via design-incorporated channels. I always found that, as a reference, a box of width and length 0.98\"\" will slide securely, but freely, into a square channel of width and length 1\"\".\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3261,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Steve,3.267423727073639,5.792576710964336,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,OctoPrint mjpg-streamer configuration,\"I'm running an OctoPi Raspberry Pi installation of OctoPrint, and the webcam images are too bright. \n\nI found some documentation on changing the exposure of mjpg-streamer, see github:foosel/OctoPrint/MJPG Streamer configuration, but I don't understand where, or how, to change these settings. \n\",Lukas Valine,\"The commands in your documentation only work with the Raspi camera. If that's the camera you're using, you can use the tools mentioned from terminal on your Raspberry Pi, or over SSH. \n\nIf you don't have SSH setup and are using your Raspberry Pi with a keyboard and mouse, you can access the command line by pressing ctrl+alt+f1 remembering that ctrl+alt+f7 brings back your GUI.\n\nSetting exposure for Raspi camera\n\nFirst navigate to the folder you installed mjpg-streamer. If you installed it in your home folder:\n\ncd ~/mjpg-streamer/mjpg-streamer-experimental\n\n\nThen use the input_raspicam.so utility to set the exposure using whatever preset you'd like. \n\n./input_raspicam.so -ex night\n\n\nIf you don't have a Raspi camera\n\nI'm currently using a Logitech HD Webcam C310 with OctoPrint. I'm pretty sure setting the exposure for that is a pretty standard operation and you shouldn't need to install anything. v4l2 (video 4 linux 2) comes installed with Raspian. \n\nTo set the exposure for a Logitech camera (possibly others too) first enable manual exposure mode (1 for manual, 0 for auto)\n\nv4l2-ctl -c exposure_auto=1\n\n\nThen set the exposure value with\n\nv4l2-ctl -c exposure_absolute=100\n\n\nreplacing 100 with whatever value you'd like. The values start at 1 and have a maximum value of 10,000.\n\nThese commands can of course be run over SSH.\n\nYou can also run \n\nv4l2-ctl --list-ctrls-menus\n\n\nto see all the options for your camera.\n\nHere's a screenshot of my ssh session and my OctoPrint interface for context:\n\n\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n3263,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mariusz Kubiński,2.8153892694839717,4.007081732295288,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Mesh/Geometry quality,\"tried searching but couldn't find anything.\nI do not have a 3d printer so can't really experiment on my own, which means that when I am going to order a 3d print I want to get it as good as possible. So, my question:\n\nDo quality of geometry matters when 3d printing? Will 3d printer only print quads, or ngons are fine? Are there shapes to avoid?\n\nCheers :)\nM.\n\",StarWind0,\"Welcome to the site!\n\nIn regards to quads, vs polygon. People will often reduce the overall detail to make it easier to print. But so long as after you export it to a STL and verify that your Manifold edges were done correctly and what you though was solid is solid, you should be good to go. As near as I can tell so long as you can export it to STL then it doesn't matter what meshing you use. That said I see Polygons more than anything.\n\nWorst case you can run it through a STL repair program and it will make the required changes for you. Usually I used these tools to fix poorly rendered files.\nMy favorite is Nettfab. which is now part of microsoft.\n\nYou can verify if it will print by downloading slic3r, then \"\"slicing\"\" the file. After that you should be able to view a layer by later output.\n\nArticle talking about quads vs triangles from design\n\nShapeways article on preparing blender files for 3d printing\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n3263,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mariusz Kubiński,2.8153892694839717,4.007081732295288,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Mesh/Geometry quality,\"tried searching but couldn't find anything.\nI do not have a 3d printer so can't really experiment on my own, which means that when I am going to order a 3d print I want to get it as good as possible. So, my question:\n\nDo quality of geometry matters when 3d printing? Will 3d printer only print quads, or ngons are fine? Are there shapes to avoid?\n\nCheers :)\nM.\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"If you're talking about the shape of the end result, rather than the constituent elements of the model - the answer is no, there is no simple geometric restriction. Have a look at 3D benchy for an example of how print quality can be affected by different aspects.\n\nOne obvious issue is overhangs, so the orientation of the part is important for printing. A flat circle will (on a cartesian printer) come out smooth as X any Y move in sync, and have good support. A vertical circle will have steps introduced by the slicing which quantises X and Y from layer to latyer.\n\nSharp, un-supported corners may be the weakest aspect to resolve in the print - extruded filament tends to shrink as it cools, but as far as I know the errors like this can be reduced by printing more slowly (and reducing the dynamic flexing of the frame too).\n\nTalking about a top surface of an extruded n-gon, if you look at the slicing output, you'll see infill in the bulk, with a layer filling only the top 3 or 4 layers. There are several infill patern options, but yes, there is scope for a scenario where the top layer needs to bridge a long way. However, since the alternate layers fill in orthogonal directions this should be a minimal effect. Tweaking the infill percentage, or chamfering the corners can fix these small defects.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n3265,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Brad,2.8153892694839717,4.010992473702021,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.9376260060201658,Thick wall or solid part of an otherwise medium-fill part,\"I'm trying to design a camera handle, which will be around 8\"\" long and will have a brass camera thread insert in the end, where the camera will be mounted. (That way, I don't have to screw the camera thread into plastic which will wear out faster.)\n\nIf I print the handle normally, the end of the handle won't be solid so I can't solidly put that brass fitting in. If I set the fill in Cura to 100%, the print will take a very long time and will be unnecessarily solid. I only need a centimeter or two at the end to be solid.\n\nIs there a way to get one particular wall in Cura to be very thick (1-2cm) without affecting the other walls? Is there some other way to get a solid chunk in the end of the part?\n\",StarWind0,\"I think you are approaching this wrong. Sounds like you need to design it to have a hollow wall. That said to answer your question no you cannot have your slicer modify prints like that. But it bears mentioning you can set all shells to what ever you want have have a very sparse infill. To you can set vertical shells to 3 or so. Top to 3 bottom to 2 and infill to 7-15% so it will be 93% hollow not counting the 3 layers of solid skin. \n\nPost pics of your design. Or let me know what else I can add. Check out my answer to this other stack overflow question\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3265,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Brad,2.8153892694839717,4.010992473702021,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.9376260060201658,Thick wall or solid part of an otherwise medium-fill part,\"I'm trying to design a camera handle, which will be around 8\"\" long and will have a brass camera thread insert in the end, where the camera will be mounted. (That way, I don't have to screw the camera thread into plastic which will wear out faster.)\n\nIf I print the handle normally, the end of the handle won't be solid so I can't solidly put that brass fitting in. If I set the fill in Cura to 100%, the print will take a very long time and will be unnecessarily solid. I only need a centimeter or two at the end to be solid.\n\nIs there a way to get one particular wall in Cura to be very thick (1-2cm) without affecting the other walls? Is there some other way to get a solid chunk in the end of the part?\n\",Tim Kuipers,\"There is a way to do this in Cura 2:\n\n\nLoad in a cube.\nPlace it over the location where you need 100% infill.\nIn the per-object settings (tool on the left of the screen): \n\n\nenable Infill Mesh, and;\nset Infill density to 100 %, and;\nWall Thickness to 0 mm.\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3270,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jay,2.1782824847157594,3.264951048124368,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,photogrammetry with partially translucent objects,\"I've captured a stationary spinning object in a computer game. It's semi translucent and there are stationary objects behind it.\n\nAs I expected it did not convert using Autodesk's remake. It gives no explanation other than 'Error'. I obviously can't paint the object. Are there any techniques in Photoshop that will let me manually fix the images to reduce the translucency? \n\nAny other program that might produce a mesh from images? The game objects can't be extracted via any other program I've tried.\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"I found at least 2 online pages that'll create a 3D stl from an image, basically using intensity (brightness) to determine depth. \n\nselva3d.com and embossify.com \n\nI used it with success on a binary (black or white) image, at least.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3275,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Merlin04,1.726248027126092,4.346405727800191,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,1.878685800062712,Printer changing temperature after selecting file,\"I have just got a Monoprice Maker Select 3d printer (which is really just a Wanhao Duplicator i3). \n\nI want to print a model that came on the included SD card (1.gcode) with ABS filament. I first press \"\"Preheat ABS\"\" and wait for the display to show the correct temperatures, 245°C for the extruder and 90°C for the print bed. Then, I mount the SD card and select the file to print. \n\nHowever, once I do that, the \"\"goal\"\" temperatures change to 195°C for the extruder and 50°C for the print bed, and the temperatures reported by the printer gradually go down as the printer waits for it to match the \"\"goal\"\" temperature. This results in a failed print, with the filament sticking to the extruder in a clump. \n\nWhat is going on here? I am trying PLA with the same file, and it seems to work fine, although the temperature change still occurs. \n\",Sean Houlihane,\"If you want to use the demo files, you can probably pause the print as soon as it starts, and manually set the extruder temperatures before resuming the print. Easier to generate new g-code though.\n\",0.0,0.0\n3275,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Merlin04,1.726248027126092,4.346405727800191,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,1.878685800062712,Printer changing temperature after selecting file,\"I have just got a Monoprice Maker Select 3d printer (which is really just a Wanhao Duplicator i3). \n\nI want to print a model that came on the included SD card (1.gcode) with ABS filament. I first press \"\"Preheat ABS\"\" and wait for the display to show the correct temperatures, 245°C for the extruder and 90°C for the print bed. Then, I mount the SD card and select the file to print. \n\nHowever, once I do that, the \"\"goal\"\" temperatures change to 195°C for the extruder and 50°C for the print bed, and the temperatures reported by the printer gradually go down as the printer waits for it to match the \"\"goal\"\" temperature. This results in a failed print, with the filament sticking to the extruder in a clump. \n\nWhat is going on here? I am trying PLA with the same file, and it seems to work fine, although the temperature change still occurs. \n\",darookee,\"The demo files are gcode files generated for use with the sample PLA that comes with the printer. If you want to print it with ABS select the file and set the temperature manually afterwards. \n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n3278,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Francesco,2.8153892694839717,5.684427791877616,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Arduino Mega voltage regulator overheats with RAMPS board,\"This is my problem:\n\nI'm assembling a 3D printer with the RAMPS 1.4 board and Arduino Mega. I have assembled the structure and the electronics (set drivers, placed the jumpers, connected stepper motors...) and have uploaded Marlin firmware (configuring: thermistor, endstops...) on the Arduino Mega.\n\nI've tried to connect, via USB, to the computer and using the Repetier software I have commanded the printer which did do some movement. The printer worked perfectly. After a few tests, however, I've noticed that the Arduino was restarting several times and at one point I saw a component on the Arduino board burning. Searching the internet I saw that the burned component was the voltage regulator. \n\nI heard also about unplugging the screen because it consumes a lot of current, that passes through the voltage regulator, thereby heating it up. I then proceeded to buy another Arduino Mega. I also checked the voltage of my 12V 360W power supply and it is correct. I always powered the Arduino with USB and RAMPS 1.4 was connected to the power supply from the two terminals.\n\n \n\nWhen the new Arduino arrived, I connected the whole (without connecting the screen) and tried. The printer worked very well until it started giving the same problem as the first Arduino board. Someone can tell me if I have done something wrong, or is it the RAMPS board that does not work properly?\n\nEDIT:\n\nI read that the endstops can cause this problem. I have these endstops: 1 PZ di Alta Qualità Finecorsa Meccanico Per rampe Reprap 1.4 stampante 3D Con imballaggio indipendente kit fai da te and I connected the black wire to GND, red wire to 5V and the green wire to SIGNAL.\n\",Francesco,\"I've solved unsoldering the diode(D1) on RAMPS. This diode provides to power the arduino board with 12V. If you have a chinese arduino this will probably cause some problems.\n\n\nI hope this will help someone.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3278,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Francesco,2.8153892694839717,5.684427791877616,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Arduino Mega voltage regulator overheats with RAMPS board,\"This is my problem:\n\nI'm assembling a 3D printer with the RAMPS 1.4 board and Arduino Mega. I have assembled the structure and the electronics (set drivers, placed the jumpers, connected stepper motors...) and have uploaded Marlin firmware (configuring: thermistor, endstops...) on the Arduino Mega.\n\nI've tried to connect, via USB, to the computer and using the Repetier software I have commanded the printer which did do some movement. The printer worked perfectly. After a few tests, however, I've noticed that the Arduino was restarting several times and at one point I saw a component on the Arduino board burning. Searching the internet I saw that the burned component was the voltage regulator. \n\nI heard also about unplugging the screen because it consumes a lot of current, that passes through the voltage regulator, thereby heating it up. I then proceeded to buy another Arduino Mega. I also checked the voltage of my 12V 360W power supply and it is correct. I always powered the Arduino with USB and RAMPS 1.4 was connected to the power supply from the two terminals.\n\n \n\nWhen the new Arduino arrived, I connected the whole (without connecting the screen) and tried. The printer worked very well until it started giving the same problem as the first Arduino board. Someone can tell me if I have done something wrong, or is it the RAMPS board that does not work properly?\n\nEDIT:\n\nI read that the endstops can cause this problem. I have these endstops: 1 PZ di Alta Qualità Finecorsa Meccanico Per rampe Reprap 1.4 stampante 3D Con imballaggio indipendente kit fai da te and I connected the black wire to GND, red wire to 5V and the green wire to SIGNAL.\n\",4redwings,\"I ordered an authentic Arduino Mega today after the voltage regulator on my Chinese clone Mega went up in smoke. But I couldn't wait two whole days so I dug around and found an old 7805 (less than US$1 new btw) and soldered it in. It worked! Just one more possible solution. Actually that's two if you count buying a real Arduino. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3279,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user91579631,0.0,3.776022737890987,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,How does a 3D printer print itself given the huge size?,\"How can this be done given that the object to be printed is the same size as itself? In the CubePro printers that I have used before, the object to be printed is inside some kind of glass panel. Only objects that are smaller can be printed.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"3D printers obviously do not print themselves. 3D printers are sometimes used to make parts for other 3D printers, and this is what is meant by \"\"self-replicating\"\" 3D printers (which is a bit of a misnomer, considering that all designs require a substantial amount of non-printed \"\"vitamin\"\" parts).\n\nA printer that is able to produce many of its own parts is the RepRap snappy, which (as the name suggests) consists of plastic parts that - while they each fit within the build volume - snap together to make up the larger parts for the printer.\n\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3283,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gunslinger,3.267423727073639,5.051736646687476,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,2.6553159206313057,Are self intersecting meshes dirty from a 3D printing perspective?,\"I have never much cared about self intersecting meshes when slicing with Cura. Geometry like the one below are often practical. I for instance add lots of rivets that self intersect with the base geometry:\n\n\n\nNow I have switched printer, and am using Simplify3D instead. All of a sudden, I get lots of problems with these models. The intersection of the objects become hollow. Simplify3D has a setting to join the outer solid shell but it also fills holes (such as the center hole of a gear).\n\nI make models to sell so this is a big deal for me.\n\nEDIT: Also, they printed perfectly fine in formlabs \"\"slicer\"\".\n\",Marviel,\"Self intersecting meshes are considered dirty, yes. The reason you haven't had trouble before is probably that the software you were using was cleaning your mesh for you, behind the scenes.\nGenerally speaking, these meshes can be cleaned without too much trouble by software like netfabb (https://www.netfabb.com/) which has a nice free version that I use for basic cleaning of some of my meshes. A quick google on \"\"netfabb free fix mesh\"\" should turn up a tutorial or two.\n\nIf you're interested in learning more about an operation you can use to make this a single unified mesh, it's called a Boolean Union, and the blender project has a nice (open source, I think?) implementation of such: (https://www.blender.org/manual/modeling/modifiers/generate/booleans.html)\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n3283,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gunslinger,3.267423727073639,5.051736646687476,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,2.6553159206313057,Are self intersecting meshes dirty from a 3D printing perspective?,\"I have never much cared about self intersecting meshes when slicing with Cura. Geometry like the one below are often practical. I for instance add lots of rivets that self intersect with the base geometry:\n\n\n\nNow I have switched printer, and am using Simplify3D instead. All of a sudden, I get lots of problems with these models. The intersection of the objects become hollow. Simplify3D has a setting to join the outer solid shell but it also fills holes (such as the center hole of a gear).\n\nI make models to sell so this is a big deal for me.\n\nEDIT: Also, they printed perfectly fine in formlabs \"\"slicer\"\".\n\",Davo,\"You can download MeshLab from https://sourceforge.net/projects/meshlab/ and use it to head stls.\n\nThis video has healing instructions: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eLGIRAgLz4w\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3506,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gunslinger,1.726248027126092,3.0484567768387603,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,How come firmware isn't uploaded?,\"I am calibrating my Kossel XL with a new Marlin firmware changing the MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS since I have modified my print bed.\n\nI change the value in the Marlin code and upload it through Arduino (the editor on Windows 10). It has worked many times before with the exact same version of Arduino.\n\nWhen I then use Pronterface and issue G28 (home all) followed by G1 Z30 (just to be on the safe side) it shows that Marlin wasn't uploaded at all. It is a the same height as before. It's a 22.2 mm difference so it is easy to see.\n\n\nI have tried restarting the Arduino board before and after upload. \nI have tried unplugging the USB cable before and after upload.\nI also tried two different USB ports.\nThe computer has been rebooted.\nI have examined the Arduino editor's settings, so it uploads to the correct destination (COM3 in my case). It is as it should be. It, of course, reports \"\"upload complete\"\".\n\n\nWhat can be the cause of this?\n\",Marcio Granzotto,\"Are you sure that the firmware is not being uploaded?\nYou can debug this changing the STRING_VERSION on Configurations.h.\nIf the version is not being changed, I would suggest trying to use another computer to upload the firmware or even another board.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n4644,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gunslinger,2.1782824847157594,4.09181718796098,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How can I see what errors Slic3r have repaird?,\"I have an STL-file that Slic3r thinks has errors. They are not visible in the 3D view. I have had them anazlyzed in both Blender and netfabb. Both of these programs say that the model is good. I don't want to leave this to chance. Since I sell STL-files I need the STL-file perfect.\n\nIs there any way I can find out what the problem is. I encounter this from time to time. Often I can go back into blender and find the error by analyzing the mesh. But not always. It would be very helpful to have slic3r tell me what it repaired.\n\",hroncok,\"Slic3r uses ADMesh internally to validate and fix mesh. You could try to use ADMesh directly to see a limited information about what was changed. Note that Slic3r bundles it's own copy of ADMesh and depending on your Slic3r version and edition, the behavior of it's ADMesh might slightly differ from the standalone one. (For example Slic3r Prusa Editon patches it's own ADMesh very heavily.)\n\nUsing ADMesh CLI:\n\n$ admesh cube_bad.stl \nADMesh version 0.98.2, Copyright (C) 1995, 1996 Anthony D. Martin\nADMesh comes with NO WARRANTY. This is free software, and you are welcome to\nredistribute it under certain conditions. See the file COPYING for details.\nOpening cube_bad.stl\nChecking exact...\nChecking nearby. Tolerance= 1.000000 Iteration=1 of 2... Fixed 0 edges.\nChecking nearby. Tolerance= 1.000173 Iteration=2 of 2... Fixed 0 edges.\nRemoving unconnected facets...\nFilling holes...\nChecking normal directions...\nChecking normal values...\nCalculating volume...\nVerifying neighbors...\n\n================= Results produced by ADMesh version 0.98.2 ================\nInput file : cube_bad.stl\nFile type : ASCII STL file\nHeader : solid cube (repaired)\n============== Size ==============\nMin X = 0.000000, Max X = 1.000000\nMin Y = 0.000000, Max Y = 1.000000\nMin Z = 0.000000, Max Z = 1.000000\n========= Facet Status ========== Original ============ Final ====\nNumber of facets : 12 12\nFacets with 1 disconnected edge : 3 0\nFacets with 2 disconnected edges : 0 0\nFacets with 3 disconnected edges : 1 0\nTotal disconnected facets : 4 0\n=== Processing Statistics === ===== Other Statistics =====\nNumber of parts : 1 Volume : 1.000000\nDegenerate facets : 0\nEdges fixed : 0\nFacets removed : 1\nFacets added : 1\nFacets reversed : 2\nBackwards edges : 0\nNormals fixed : 2\n\n\nThe statistics should give you some idea about what happened.\n\nUsing ADMeshGUI:\n\nFind ADMeshGUI at github.com/admesh/ADMeshGUI.\n\nOpen the file and click the REPAIR button in bottom right. See the changes.\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3285,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user3557707,1.726248027126092,5.601681897498112,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Prusa i3 Z axis not moving up,\"I just got a Hictop Prusa i3 printer and I have it fully assembled. When I tested out the motors to check them the Z-axis motors were not moving and it was making a grinding sound. I have lifted the screw rods out of the coupling to see if the motor would move the coupling would move and it did. I can move the screw rods manually and it works. How can I make the Z-axis work?\n\nThank you in Advance!\n\nEdit\n\nHere is the vidoe of the problem https://www.dropbox.com/s/93g0pg0qfhq965d/IMG_0369.MOV?dl=0\n\n\n\",StarWind0,\"Welcome to the group! A video would help. Or at least some photos.\n\nAre both the motors connected? If you remove them from the coupling do they move? Likely it is binding (too much friction, not level etc) or you need to adjust your voltage controller. I am going to say 80% confident you need to play with the voltage.\n\nChances are it's just the voltage. I do not know what electronics you have but if they are RAMPS 1.4 then you are looking for these\n\n\n\nAlso here is the wiki on the 1.4. Just turn the screw gently. One direction will give it more power. The other less. When it has too much power your motors will start making a thud noise.\n\nEDIT post adding the video\n\nOh yeah that is binding. If you wouldn't mind putting the video on youtube to that the video can help people for years to come? Dropbox is a bit volitle.\n\nI would also in addition to my advice in your other question take a bubble leveler to all the rods. It could be a distortion on your camera but it looks like the rod is a bit bent. Also in my Prusa (original) I used to have to make the motor mounts lose, as it did not fit all that well and had binding issues. Try making the screws loose enough so that they float and can move around a lot. The lead screws are less important to the overall stability. \n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n3294,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user3557707,1.0891412423578797,4.21079418190491,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.9505769891325135,Is there a problem with removing a polished rod from the Z-axis?,\"I recently had a problem with the z-axis of my printer. To resolve the issue with the Z axis not moving I remove the left polished rod. Am I able to use the printer with just one smooth rod?\n\",StarWind0,\"First a resounding no. Not a good idea. Are you saying it works now that you have removed the smooth rod?\n\nThat tells me for sure your issue was Binding. Which is a tricky problem to solve. Binding usually happens when your carriage is not level. Take a bubble leveler and verify.\n\nAnother time it happens is when your Acceleration / Jerk settings are too high. Try reducing the Acceleration for Z in the firmware.\n\nAnother possibility is your rod is Bent. Take the rod on a flat surface. Inspect it as you roll it around. Do the same with the other rod. If it bows and is not completely flat, then you will need to replace it.\n\nLast is make sure your printers frame is put together. If it is causing the rod to bend as it is not aligned right then you should try to see if you can fix it and contact the seller.\n\nTechnically you can run without the second rod. Maybe. I do not advise. It is sort of like cutting off a leg because you have a cramp. It will hurt your overall quality and it is better to just resolve the issue. \n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n3294,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user3557707,1.0891412423578797,4.21079418190491,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.9505769891325135,Is there a problem with removing a polished rod from the Z-axis?,\"I recently had a problem with the z-axis of my printer. To resolve the issue with the Z axis not moving I remove the left polished rod. Am I able to use the printer with just one smooth rod?\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"No, this is not a good idea. Your X axis is now free to rotate by a few degrees around the remaining Z rod. Parts may appear to print OK, but depending on the dynamics of a print, you will see offsets between layers. You need to resolve the issues with your Z-axis.\n These questions, z-axis hard to move in some areas - what could be faults, how to improve? and Z-axis steppers and bed alignment problems have some answers that are probably relevant.\n\nObviously, you can use this limited setup to print new parts if you need them, but you'll be lucky to make anything accurate enough.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3377,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user3557707,1.0891412423578797,3.7536737190535523,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Prusa i3 jerking during printing,\"I have a Prusa i3 and during the print, it will start jerking which makes a noise that sounds like something is going wrong. At first, I thought it was the infill since there is a gap in between the layers which this picture shows (I have ripped off the bad layers to see if I can get any use out of it. The video shows the bad layers). For reference the \"\"wall\"\" along the outside is 2.1 mm.\n\n Then about 70% of the way through the print, the Y layers started to shift so I thought that the jerking was a result of this. This is a video of what is happening https://www.dropbox.com/s/g1afjwyzl8hqej9/IMG_0403.MOV?dl=0\n\nSo is this the infill that is causing the jerking or is there something that I should fix on the printer that will stop jerking?\nThank you!\n\",StarWind0,\"Well that is unique. I would say if you only see this after the printer has been running a while then your electronics are likely overheating. Put a fan on it and report back.\n\nOtherwise and also I would reflash the electronics..\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3450,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user3557707,2.1782824847157594,3.5067276254879127,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Prusa i3 Stopping midprint,\"I am trying to print an earbud holder with my Prusa i3. About an hour though the 3-hour print I left the printer for about 20 minutes and when I came back the printer stopped printing. The printer didn't display any errors on the LCD. The extruder and printing bed all cooled down but the z-axis didn't raise so the nozzle was stuck to the print. What could cause the printer to stop printing?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"There's really no telling why that happened if you weren't there to observe it.\n\nA possibility is a temporary power outage, which would stop and reset the printer without any trace of it having happened. Even if there was not a power outage, maybe there was a temporary dip in power that caused the power supply to be unable to supply the required voltage (or perhaps the power supply was of poor quality to begin with and suffered some issue that caused the voltage to drop).\n\nAnother possibility is that you were printing via a computer, and the computer rebooted during the print. If this is not the case and you were printing via an SD card, maybe the SD card became corrupted and the printer read some invalid G-code and reset itself (though this latter case would probably come with some indication of a fault on the LCD).\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n3572,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user3557707,0.0,4.888393101987145,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,PLA bubbling in the first layer of a print,\"I am using a Prusa i3 printer and just recently I have been having problems with the first layer. Here is a picture of what it looks like.\n\n \n\nI have tried levelling the bed and it seems to be level. I was using a glue stick before but it started bubbling on that, so I switched to tape and that worked once but it is not working now. I wiped the tape with rubbing alcohol and it happened again. \n\nWhat else can I do to get the first layer right?\n\",StarWind0,\"Oh wow. You are way over cooking your PLA. It is bubbling because it is BOILING. I can tell you have it too hot because the lines are all blurred as if they are liquid and pooled together. \n\nThat said I can't give you details because you didn't post settings. I would start by turning the temps to 170c for hotend and 60c for plate. Also the gluestick it self should never bubble. It is unclear if that is an issue..\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3572,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user3557707,0.0,4.888393101987145,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,PLA bubbling in the first layer of a print,\"I am using a Prusa i3 printer and just recently I have been having problems with the first layer. Here is a picture of what it looks like.\n\n \n\nI have tried levelling the bed and it seems to be level. I was using a glue stick before but it started bubbling on that, so I switched to tape and that worked once but it is not working now. I wiped the tape with rubbing alcohol and it happened again. \n\nWhat else can I do to get the first layer right?\n\",raviriley,\"Either you are extruding way too hot, or your filament has absorbed too much moisture and the water absorbed inside the filament boils instantly in the extruder, resulting in a gap or \"\"bubble\"\" in the filament, leading to bad extrusion. What temperature are you extruding at with your PLA? Hope this helped!\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3288,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pulse9,1.726248027126092,6.288618516948979,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,3D print Configuration Cura - Anet A8,\"I'm new with my 3D printer, I just print two different pawn pieces from thingverse. I just used Cura to convert the files to be readable for the printer. Is my problem with the pieces has to do with the configuration from the Cura software? or with my printer itself? \n\n\n\nUpdate:\n\nI just printed a baymax that came with the SD printer. And it looks awesome. I think the problem is with the configuration from Cura.\n\n\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"That looks like horrible underextrusion. Either the extruder steps/mm are way off, but more likely is that your nozzle is clogged (because I wouldn't expect the steps/mm to be this far off). It's also possible that the temperature you're printing at is inappropriate for the filament you're using. Also, make sure that the fan that is cooling the heatsink of the extruder is always on. If not, filament may soften in places it's not supposed to and jam.\n\nTry heating the extruder up and pushing the filament through by hand. You'll probably feel a lot of resistance and the filament won't come out smoothly. You could try doing a couple of cold pulls, that is, put a piece of filament in while the hotend is hot, then let it cool down and attempt to extract the filament at the lowest possible temperature. This may pull debris or particles blocking the nozzle out.\n\nIf this doesn't help, there are various other ways of clearing a clog from the nozzle. One popular technique is disassembling the entire hotend and burning out all the debris from the nozzle with a blowtorch. Another is using a special drill bit to clear out the nozzle but this has a high risk of damaging it.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n3288,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pulse9,1.726248027126092,6.288618516948979,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,3D print Configuration Cura - Anet A8,\"I'm new with my 3D printer, I just print two different pawn pieces from thingverse. I just used Cura to convert the files to be readable for the printer. Is my problem with the pieces has to do with the configuration from the Cura software? or with my printer itself? \n\n\n\nUpdate:\n\nI just printed a baymax that came with the SD printer. And it looks awesome. I think the problem is with the configuration from Cura.\n\n\n\",Gunslinger,\"Underextrusion (as this looks like) could be a extruder problem. The extruders main part is the small gear that pushes the filament through the hotend. There could be lots of reasons for it to fail:\n\n\nThe motor driving it isn't strong enough. Poorly designed printer (yeah, ultimaker, I'm looking at you). Not very likely. But a geared extruder or motor can improve extrusion.\nYou print at to low hotend temp. If you increase the temperature the filament will become more fluid and easier to push out. Increasing the temperature will unfortunately increase risk for clogging and stringing.\nThe filament has absorbed moisture. Try drying it.\nYou print to fast. Lowering the speed may do the trick. You also have to wait longer (dhu).\nThe acutal gear in the extruder is full of filament bits, clean it.\nYou don't put enough force on the filament against the gear. Can you tighten it?\nThe gear is not hobbed. A hobbed gear will grip the filament better. You might not be able to switch it.\nThe filament has become tangled on the spool. Be careful when you handle it to not unroll it. This usually results in that the filament becomes entirely stuck though.\nThe nozzle is clogged. See answer from @Tom van der Zanden.\n\n\nIf you don't have a geared extruder you can print one. There are plenty of them on thingiverse. Increase the temp and lower the speed to get this vital part in good quality.\n\nOr you can buy a geared extruder. (I use the titan extruder from e3d)\nOr you can buy a geared motor.\n\nHow to detect an extrusion problem:\n\nIt is quite easy to hear if you have extrusion problems (at least some of them). The Extruder will make a sound like \"\"drrrr\"\" with regular intervalls as it tries to push through the filament. Almost like a clock ticking but slower. This is the gear slipping against the filament.\n\nIf you don't have an extrusion problem:\nExperiment with upping the Material flow rate in your slicer (in your case Cura). Try something like 300%. Stand watch and see what happens. \n\n\n\nIf this almost fixes the problem, you must calibrate the printers extrusion. It is possible that the already generated Gcode (found on the sd-card) compensates for this.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3310,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,afringer,0.0,4.36059023314527,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.1827783713261073,0.42741039782645945,Makerbot Replicator 2 Halts during print,\"I am running a MakerBot Replicator 2. During the print, the printer just stops executing and I am running out of ways to troubleshoot.\n\nAfter restarting, I can load and extrude filament.\n\nI have replaced the SD card, and even borrowed one from another working replicator, and the freeze still occurs.\n\nLikewise, I've regenerated the x3g file, and that did not work.\n\nThe panel does not freeze, I can cancel the print during the freeze.\n\nI've made sure Z pause is off. It tends freezes randomly on the first layer.\n\nIn general, it looks as though the print is \"\"in progress\"\" but not making progress (Timer ticks up, % completed does not)\n\nDoes anyone have any idea as to what could be causing the problem?\n\",StarWind0,\"There are a few options. First your board could be overheating etc. That is harder to verify without some overpriced replacements. So to start lets take everything apart (photo and labeling is Strongly recommended). Then simply put it back together. Hopefully it is just a loose connection.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3310,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,afringer,0.0,4.36059023314527,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.1827783713261073,0.42741039782645945,Makerbot Replicator 2 Halts during print,\"I am running a MakerBot Replicator 2. During the print, the printer just stops executing and I am running out of ways to troubleshoot.\n\nAfter restarting, I can load and extrude filament.\n\nI have replaced the SD card, and even borrowed one from another working replicator, and the freeze still occurs.\n\nLikewise, I've regenerated the x3g file, and that did not work.\n\nThe panel does not freeze, I can cancel the print during the freeze.\n\nI've made sure Z pause is off. It tends freezes randomly on the first layer.\n\nIn general, it looks as though the print is \"\"in progress\"\" but not making progress (Timer ticks up, % completed does not)\n\nDoes anyone have any idea as to what could be causing the problem?\n\",Jon Chang,\"Seems like others have had similar issues: https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/engineering/topic:3849. Their issue was a bit more mechanical than firmware, though. I hope this helps!\n\nYou might also want to check the software you're using to slice the file. Sometimes the software doesn't slice the file properly, which causes problems mid-print.\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3319,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CoAstroGeek,1.0891412423578797,3.991211389052488,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Display crashed/corrupted on AnyCubic Prusa I3 clone,\"I've recently completed assembly of an AnyCubic Prusa clone. It's working, but having some issues. My prime concern at this point is the LCD display. It occasionally becomes \"\"corrupted\"\" for want of a better term (see image) and no longer responds to the control. It's done this unattended in the middle of a print attempt, which means I can't pause it to remove the imminently dripping filament from the leaking extruder (another issue I'm dealing with).\n\n\nSo three questions I guess...\n\nIs this a typical problem?\n\nWhat's the likely culprit (main board, display, firmware)?\n\nHow to fix it?\n\nI'm working with AnyCubic's tech support, such as it is, and wondering if I need to push them for replacement hardware.\nThanks!\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Issues like this are often caused by the length of the ribbon cable connecting to display to the board, or by its vicinity to other wires. Try routing the ribbon cable away from other wires, and use a shorter one if possible.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3322,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CoAstroGeek,1.0891412423578797,3.870835706937438,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Out of order operations on AnyCubic Prusa-I3 clone,\"Another thing I'm seeing with my new build.\nLate in a small print, the unit appears to perform operations \"\"out of order\"\" occasionally. Here's a picture where it's running a layer across the model.\n\n\nThese \"\"skips\"\" can start in the middle of a line. It always comes back and fills them in before starting the next layer - more or less accurately. But from my very limited understanding of gcode, it doesn't seem like this should happen.\n\nWhen watching the print closely, I'll occasionally see small glitches, where the head jogs very slightly as it runs a line across.\n\nThis was sliced with Cura - I'm going to try a different slicer and see if I get anything similar.\nThanks!\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"This is just your slicer doing this. If you inspect the G-code file, you will see that the printer is faithfully doing what the slicer told it to. Most slicers use a fairly simple heuristic for determining the order in which lines are processed, which sometimes comes up with sub-optimal solutions like these.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3322,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CoAstroGeek,1.0891412423578797,3.870835706937438,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Out of order operations on AnyCubic Prusa-I3 clone,\"Another thing I'm seeing with my new build.\nLate in a small print, the unit appears to perform operations \"\"out of order\"\" occasionally. Here's a picture where it's running a layer across the model.\n\n\nThese \"\"skips\"\" can start in the middle of a line. It always comes back and fills them in before starting the next layer - more or less accurately. But from my very limited understanding of gcode, it doesn't seem like this should happen.\n\nWhen watching the print closely, I'll occasionally see small glitches, where the head jogs very slightly as it runs a line across.\n\nThis was sliced with Cura - I'm going to try a different slicer and see if I get anything similar.\nThanks!\n\",nigew,\"I have seen this in Cura 2.5 when selecting different printers, then altering the specifications to suit. Changing the printer seems to change the slicing behavior. As yet there is no specific printer set up in Cura for the MEGA so you will probably have to find something that fits your needs, unless someone has the full settings. For example, is the Machine Center at Zero? Maybe try the Prusa Mk2?\n\",0.0,0.0\n3456,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CoAstroGeek,2.528907649931287,5.325239107828224,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Motor driver chip install direction?,\"I got a new MKS 1.4 controller board and it came with A4988 driver chips. But I can't figure out which way they install. I found something saying to match the printing on the back of the chip to that on the board. But I don't see anything that matches. Suggestions?\n\n\n\n\n\",Greenonline,\"From A4988 Stepper Motor Driver Carrier, the rear of the breakout board, is identical to yours:\n\n\n\nNote the two square pads for the GND, whereas the others are round. Now looking at the top side:\n\n\n\nand note the position of the square GND pins/pads, in relation to the trim pot.\n\nNow look at this hi-res photo of a populated MKS board\n\n\n\nAgain, looking at the position of the trim pots, one can see that the A4988 breakout boards need to be oriented such that the side with GND pins need to be nearest to the top of the board. That is to say the GND on the corner of the breakout board, needs to be pointing North East, as it were.\n\nHere is a schematic of the MKS 1.4 as well, although it is not much use, from MKS Gen 1.4 circuit and pinouts:\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3456,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CoAstroGeek,2.528907649931287,5.325239107828224,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Motor driver chip install direction?,\"I got a new MKS 1.4 controller board and it came with A4988 driver chips. But I can't figure out which way they install. I found something saying to match the printing on the back of the chip to that on the board. But I don't see anything that matches. Suggestions?\n\n\n\n\n\",Nicu Surdu,\"The below image was taken from their AliExpress shop page.\n\nUnfortunately, I don't manage to find the datasheet or schematic to give more technical advice.\n\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n3324,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kenny Wyland,3.9045305118418514,4.999049166472078,4.072585167927022,5.646830619998737,4.503257053771732,3.377987386958973,\"Can't get print to stick, no matter what I try\",\"I'm new to 3d printing, so I might be missing something obvious. If so, please let me know. \n\nI printed my model successfully yesterday, but today I'm trying to print the same model and the first layer refuses to adhere, which means at best several layers after that are messed up if it manages to recover, but usually it just means I have to cancel and start again.\n\nIt will print one horizontal line (across the x axis), then when it tries to vertical line (across the y axis) the horizontal line doesn't adhere and gets dragged along with the print head and everything is screwed up.\n\nI've tried leveling the bed over and over again. (I use a sheet of paper and try to slip it between the bed and printhead. I adjust the bed so that I feel a bit of resistance as I push and pull the paper under the printhead.)\n\nI've tried increasing the preheat on the printhead and on the bed. I'm using black PLA 1.75mm that says it has a print temp of 205-225. I've tried printing at 205, 210, 215, 220, and 225. I've tried a bed temp of 50, 55, 60, 65, and 70.\n\nI've tried setting the print speed multiplier to 0.5 to give it time to adhere, but no changes.\n\nI'm trying to print something a wireframe cube that is at the extent of my printable size, so I don't know of a way to use a raft or a brim to help adhesion.\n\nThis is what my model looks like:\n\n\n\nWhen I printed a good one yesterday, here is what the first two lines looked like:\n\n\n\nWhen I print today, even after multiple attempts to level the bed, this is what the first layer tends to look like:\n\n\n\nI'm using a Monoprice 15365. I created my model in SketchUp, then exported as STL, which I imported into Cura 2.3.1. Then I used Cura to export a gcode file to an SD card. I put the SD card into my 3d printer and printed from there.\n\nAny advice is welcome. I don't know if the problems I'm having are because the bed is too low or too high or too hot or too cold or if the printhead is too hot or too cold... nothing I've tried seems to change the results.\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"Your photo has shadows which seem to suggest that your tape layer has some wrinkles. That won't help. Try removing that tape and laying down the fabulous blue painter's tape. \n\nIf you read any dedicated forum for plastic extruder printers, you'll find plenty of claims that X or Y is the best way to guarantee adhesion. Some folks swear by glass+gluestick, others by PEI sheet, and so on. The only general consensus is that use of a brim or a raft is highly recommended so as to increase the total contact area.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n3324,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kenny Wyland,3.9045305118418514,4.999049166472078,4.072585167927022,5.646830619998737,4.503257053771732,3.377987386958973,\"Can't get print to stick, no matter what I try\",\"I'm new to 3d printing, so I might be missing something obvious. If so, please let me know. \n\nI printed my model successfully yesterday, but today I'm trying to print the same model and the first layer refuses to adhere, which means at best several layers after that are messed up if it manages to recover, but usually it just means I have to cancel and start again.\n\nIt will print one horizontal line (across the x axis), then when it tries to vertical line (across the y axis) the horizontal line doesn't adhere and gets dragged along with the print head and everything is screwed up.\n\nI've tried leveling the bed over and over again. (I use a sheet of paper and try to slip it between the bed and printhead. I adjust the bed so that I feel a bit of resistance as I push and pull the paper under the printhead.)\n\nI've tried increasing the preheat on the printhead and on the bed. I'm using black PLA 1.75mm that says it has a print temp of 205-225. I've tried printing at 205, 210, 215, 220, and 225. I've tried a bed temp of 50, 55, 60, 65, and 70.\n\nI've tried setting the print speed multiplier to 0.5 to give it time to adhere, but no changes.\n\nI'm trying to print something a wireframe cube that is at the extent of my printable size, so I don't know of a way to use a raft or a brim to help adhesion.\n\nThis is what my model looks like:\n\n\n\nWhen I printed a good one yesterday, here is what the first two lines looked like:\n\n\n\nWhen I print today, even after multiple attempts to level the bed, this is what the first layer tends to look like:\n\n\n\nI'm using a Monoprice 15365. I created my model in SketchUp, then exported as STL, which I imported into Cura 2.3.1. Then I used Cura to export a gcode file to an SD card. I put the SD card into my 3d printer and printed from there.\n\nAny advice is welcome. I don't know if the problems I'm having are because the bed is too low or too high or too hot or too cold or if the printhead is too hot or too cold... nothing I've tried seems to change the results.\n\",Kenny Wyland,\"Eureka! All of the other answers and suggestions on this post were all very helpful, and would likely be the right answers 90+% of the time, but they didn't give me any relief. I spent a bunch of time watching YouTube videos about 3D printing and I started to notice a difference in size of the lines of plastic being laid down on the build plate.\n\nIn the videos, the lines of plastic looked bigger. Mine were very fine lines. That lead me down a series of different search terms until I found some other videos that talked about nozzle cleaning.\n\nI noticed that one of the symptoms they mentioned was that when the plastic would come out of the nozzle that it would curve around. That's a sign that it's partially blocked and causing it to bend and curve. After the people in the YouTube videos cleaned their nozzle, the plastic would then extrude and drop straight down.\n\nIf my nozzle was partially blocked and only about half the right amount of plastic was coming out that would make sense since there wouldn't be enough surface area of the plastic to make a good connection to the build surface. \n\nI acquired some 0.4mm drill bits from Amazon and followed the instructions on this YouTube video.\n\nSure enough, when using the 0.4mm drill bits, I could tell the nozzle was clogged. After clearing it out, the plastic started extruding in a straight line down, just like the video. I was stoked!\n\nI tried another print and it was NIGHT AND DAY. I was finally getting nice plump lines that stuck to the build plate. I still had an issue or two on certain parts of my build plate, but I think that's because in all of my tries I had damaged the masking tape. I put down new blue tape and started up my print and it's BEAUTIFUL.\n\nThank you all very much for your help. Hopefully, this will be helpful to someone else as well. \n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n3420,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kenny Wyland,2.528907649931287,4.653123463505266,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,gcode to move the printhead up for maintenance,\"I've got a Monoprice Mini Select (15365) and it takes FOREVER for me to manually spin the dial to get the printhead to raise all the way up so that I can perform maintenance (clear blockages in the nozzle or apply new tape to the bed, etc).\n\nSo, I was thinking about writing a snippet of gcode that I could just run which would contain the commands necessary to do that for me. I'm a n00b to 3D printing, but I'm an old programmer so I figured it would be too hard. However, before running this code on my printer, I wanted to get some experts to double check me to make sure I'm not going to hurt anything. :)\n\nHere is what I have, please let me know if I've done anything wrong or if you have any suggestions.\n\n; Move print head to center and top to prepare for cleaning/maintenance\n\nM107 ; fan off\nG28 ; home all axes\nG21 ; set units to millimeters\nG90 ; use absolute coordinates\n\n; full dimensions of the print area are 120mm x 120mm x 120mm\nG0 X60 Y60 Z119 ; move to center X,Y and just below the max height\n\nM84 ; disable motors\n\n\nI grabbed a few lines from gcode generated by Slic3r and used the gcode wiki entry to understand each of the commands and fill in the extra ones I needed.\n\",ArkTekniK,\"It really depends on whether you currently have something half printed on the bed when you need to do maintenance. \nFor example, you may have a blockage mid-print or need to reprime the nozzle. \n\nSo with that in mind, personally I would separate the line that does the move into two different lines. \n\nMove vertically first, then in X Y. Otherwise, the print head may move diagonally and hit your object. This is because the head will move all three axes at once.\n\nOtherwise looks good.\n\nEdit: Another suggestion is that if you use repetier host to control the printer it will be easier to return to the print in-progress automatically.\n\nAlso take a look at the S parameter, for moves it can control how fast the move is.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3420,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kenny Wyland,2.528907649931287,4.653123463505266,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,gcode to move the printhead up for maintenance,\"I've got a Monoprice Mini Select (15365) and it takes FOREVER for me to manually spin the dial to get the printhead to raise all the way up so that I can perform maintenance (clear blockages in the nozzle or apply new tape to the bed, etc).\n\nSo, I was thinking about writing a snippet of gcode that I could just run which would contain the commands necessary to do that for me. I'm a n00b to 3D printing, but I'm an old programmer so I figured it would be too hard. However, before running this code on my printer, I wanted to get some experts to double check me to make sure I'm not going to hurt anything. :)\n\nHere is what I have, please let me know if I've done anything wrong or if you have any suggestions.\n\n; Move print head to center and top to prepare for cleaning/maintenance\n\nM107 ; fan off\nG28 ; home all axes\nG21 ; set units to millimeters\nG90 ; use absolute coordinates\n\n; full dimensions of the print area are 120mm x 120mm x 120mm\nG0 X60 Y60 Z119 ; move to center X,Y and just below the max height\n\nM84 ; disable motors\n\n\nI grabbed a few lines from gcode generated by Slic3r and used the gcode wiki entry to understand each of the commands and fill in the extra ones I needed.\n\",Davo,\"Yes, on machines which will execute \"\"standard\"\" gcode, this will do what you request. Some good resources are http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code and https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G-code\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n5068,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kenny Wyland,1.726248027126092,4.9708621537961895,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Empty space in model is getting filled,\"I drew a fairly simple model in Google SketchUp. I exported it as an STL. I imported it into Cura and exported as gcode. Then I printed the model.\n\nAll of the bottom layers of the model cover the entire space instead of leaving the two open gaps that should exist. I don't know why it's happening. Do I have some weird setting in Cura? \n\nThe section that is filled, but shouldn't be, isn't a raft. I printed without a raft because my model goes to the max extent that my printer can print and I don't have room for a raft around the edges. \n\nHere is what it looks like in SketchUp:\n\n\n\nHere is what it looks like in Cura. The two empty areas are shaded darker than the other empty areas of the build plate. Is that an indication of my problem?\n\n\n\nHere is what was printed. The empty areas are solid and filled in as if the center piece extended to the inner edges of that area. (The jacked up corners are due to the model warping a bit and no longer being in the right position for subsequent layers.)\n\n\n\nHere is a video of the layers according to Cura, and Cura clearly knows the gaps should be there:\n\nhttps://youtu.be/r0a9gGFerHI\n\",fred_dot_u,\"I suspect, as I am wont to do, that your problem lies in the STL created by SketchUp. It's an unfortunate aspect of that program that it creates non-manifold models which creates troubles such as this. \n\nConsider to load your STL file into a program suitable for showing flaws (and repairing them) to determine where the failure points lie. I'm fond of Meshmixer, but there are many others such as Netfabb with which I am less familiar.\n\nIf you don't want to check your STL file, attach it to your post and I'll take a shot at it. \n\nYou would also want to consider to learn a new program if you intend to perform such 3D modeling. Fusion 360 has a popular following. I'm a fan of OpenScad, but use Fusion 360, Meshmixer, Blender (only a tiny amount) and anything else I can utilize for model repair, creation and editing. Build a large repetoire of different programs and get the best of all worlds.\n\nSketchUp has a strong following primarily because it's rather easy to use. The same can be said of a few other programs, but SketchUp really generates trouble when it comes to 3D models.\n\nTinkerCAD is very much like SketchUp and will give you better final results. OnShape is another popular modeling program, but I have zero exposure to that one.\n\nIt's not out of the question that there's a bug in Cura that's causing this problem. You are not limited to one slicer program, and you can check the results of another slicer such as Slic3r, Craftware or others.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5068,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kenny Wyland,1.726248027126092,4.9708621537961895,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Empty space in model is getting filled,\"I drew a fairly simple model in Google SketchUp. I exported it as an STL. I imported it into Cura and exported as gcode. Then I printed the model.\n\nAll of the bottom layers of the model cover the entire space instead of leaving the two open gaps that should exist. I don't know why it's happening. Do I have some weird setting in Cura? \n\nThe section that is filled, but shouldn't be, isn't a raft. I printed without a raft because my model goes to the max extent that my printer can print and I don't have room for a raft around the edges. \n\nHere is what it looks like in SketchUp:\n\n\n\nHere is what it looks like in Cura. The two empty areas are shaded darker than the other empty areas of the build plate. Is that an indication of my problem?\n\n\n\nHere is what was printed. The empty areas are solid and filled in as if the center piece extended to the inner edges of that area. (The jacked up corners are due to the model warping a bit and no longer being in the right position for subsequent layers.)\n\n\n\nHere is a video of the layers according to Cura, and Cura clearly knows the gaps should be there:\n\nhttps://youtu.be/r0a9gGFerHI\n\",Alec Bellinghausen Pagliarussi,\"You have a problem with your STL file. Check the orientation of the faces of your 3D model, if that is not the problem, search for a software to fix your stl file. Just a tip, give Fusion360 a try, it is the best!\n\",0.0,0.0\n7638,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kenny Wyland,1.726248027126092,4.113978308474901,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,What should the underside of a bridge look like?,\"I tried out printing a \"\"bridge\"\" for the first time using this Bridge Calibration model. The model creator suggests printing, tweaking settings, and printing again until it works \"\"properly.\"\" \n\nMy first try worked reasonably well, but the underside of the bridge is pretty rough and stringy. But I don't know what a \"\"good bridge\"\" is supposed to look like.\n\n\n\nHow smooth should the underside of the bridge be? Any suggestions for what changes I should make to my slicer settings? Here is what I have currently:\n\n\n\nHere is a picture of my hotend on my Monoprice Maker Select Plus, as requested:\n\n\n\",0scar,\"A good bridging underside looks preferably like this:\n\n\n\nThis means straight long lines that have minimally sagged out. Why long straight lines? If they are straight and do nut sag out much, it is far more easier for the next layers to build upon. Please look at the difference between the above image and your own image, it looks as though you are missing more layers as the first bridge layer failed for others to build upon.\n\nThe idea is to get straight lines of filament from one to the other side. Knowing that filament is hot when you extrude it, it is difficult to bridge large gaps. It is impossible to think that enough part cooling will be enough to prevent sagging of the filament and have a perfect finishing at the bridge, there will always be sagging strands of plastic there. The idea for getting a good bridge (for other layers to build upon) is that you you need to solidify the hot filament as fast as possible to reduce the sagging. It is often best to reduce print speed and making sure your fans cool the extruded filament strands rapidly so that they become solid and stiff as quickly as possible.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7638,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kenny Wyland,1.726248027126092,4.113978308474901,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,What should the underside of a bridge look like?,\"I tried out printing a \"\"bridge\"\" for the first time using this Bridge Calibration model. The model creator suggests printing, tweaking settings, and printing again until it works \"\"properly.\"\" \n\nMy first try worked reasonably well, but the underside of the bridge is pretty rough and stringy. But I don't know what a \"\"good bridge\"\" is supposed to look like.\n\n\n\nHow smooth should the underside of the bridge be? Any suggestions for what changes I should make to my slicer settings? Here is what I have currently:\n\n\n\nHere is a picture of my hotend on my Monoprice Maker Select Plus, as requested:\n\n\n\",Perplexed Dipole,\"The idea of the part fan is to cool the plastic as quickly as possible once it is extruded in order to keep it in the correct spot. The slower that the plastic solidifies, the more the plastic will sag when printing overhangs/bridges. The stock part cooling fan/duct on your printer, Monoprice Maker Select Plus, is not all that great and would probably benefit from an upgrade. \n\nAs far as the Cura settings you posted, you should turn off most all of those experimental bridge settings. Your printer will still be able to print bridges without the 'Enable Bridge Settings' checked. The only one that would be useful is the the 'Bridge Skin Speed' since reducing the print speed effectively increases the air flow on the extruded plastic. More over you are turning off the fan for the 2nd and 3rd bridge skin layers which will cause them to sag even further.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3338,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Markus Appel,1.0891412423578797,3.304391138419485,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,First layer lines don't stick at all,\"My Ultimaker 1 with a heated bed doesn't print good first layer lines at all. The single lines keep detaching from the printbed, no matter what nozzle or bed temperature or the height of printhead from printbed. I cleaned the printbed thouroughly, too. It worked a while ago, I don't know what I am doing wrong.\n\nData:\n\nUltimaker 1 with Heated Printbed (Glass)\nPLA @ 200°/60°\n\nThis is how it looks like after removing a print (one and a half layers) from the printbed.\nIt is quite thick though.\n\n\",Diesel,\"This looks a bit like your build plate isn't level. I'd suggest re-leveling using feeler gauges.\n\",0.0,0.0\n6727,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Markus Appel,2.1782824847157594,2.877598637377739,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Customized Ultimaker 1: Extruder motor does not move,\"I recently upgraded my Ultimaker 1. The upgrade includes a different stepper motor for the Extruder, the same a Ultimaker 2+ would use. I plugged the new motor and nothing happened.\n\nTo eliminate the problem I ordered a new PCB and stepper motor drivers, reassembled all electronics. For some reason the extruder does not move, and actually any other motor I plug into the extruder port doesn't either. I switched the driver, twice, but without a different result.\n\nCan anybody tell me what component could be faulty or how I can find the problem? Could it be the Arduino board, even when I use the Ulticontroller? Maybe remove one of the jumpers next to the driver?\n\",tjb1,\"Did you heat the hotend before attempting to move the extruder? Most firmwares block cold extrusion. If you send the printer M302 it will allow the extruder motor to move without the hotend being above the temperature set in the firmware. Jumpers next to drivers are used to set microstepping, no need to adjust these unless you changed to a different type of driver or want to use different microstepping. Changing them usually requires changing the steps in firmware as well. Also, swapping drivers or motors while the driver is powered can destroy it.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n6746,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Markus Appel,1.726248027126092,2.6051956195329864,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Hotend temperature reading limited,\"After doing some repairs and upgrades on my Ultimaker Original, I found my temperature readings to be weird.\n\nThe reading is not incorrect, as long as the temperature is above 110°C. When the real temparature is below 110°C, the sensor will always read 110°C, with only subtle changes around 0.1°C.\n\nThis will cause the printer to abort heating, because it does not see a change in temparature for the first 30 seconds (when the temperature is below 110°C).\n\n\n\nHere you can see a screenshot of Pronterface, showing how the temperature (blue line) starts increasing when my printer already aborted heating (violet line).\n\nI am certain that the reading is incorrect because at the beginning the hotend actually feels cold to touch.\n\nI am also certain that the reading above 110°C is more or less accurate.\n\n\nWhat could this be caused by? What parts should I replace?\nIf I should replace the TC2, will a TC1 do too? I can't seem to find any store selling the TC2.\nIf I should replace the sensor, what kind of sensor should I search for?\nOr is there a drop-in sensor-chip-combination that I can buy?\n\n\",JasonT Tech,\"The fact that the temperature reading stays steady while heating and changes once it stops heating makes me thing that you might have a short between your heater wires and sensor wires or somehow have them interconnected. Especially if it shows the same temperature when it's actually below 110°C and heating but shows correct when not heating. I would try to separate the heater wires from the sensor wires and make sure they are not touching, also check that the sensor wires are not touching the heating block.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6849,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Markus Appel,2.528907649931287,4.1021346378966586,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Ultimaker Original temperature sensor replacement?,\"The title almost says it all.\n\nI was searching on websites like amazon.com and ebay.com for a replacement of the temperature sensor of my Ultimaker 1, but could only find replacements for Ultimaker 2 (PT100), but I know those aren't compatible.\n\nWhat specifications have replacement temperature sensors that work with the tc2 signal amplifier of the Ultimaker Original?\n\",Greenonline,\"You need a thermocouple, not a thermistor. Also, as you say the Ultimaker Original+, and the Ultimaker 2, (which both use version 2.x.x boards) use a PT1001.\n\nAccording to this post, on E3D Thermocouple mount on UMO+, a k-type thermocouple will do:\n\n\n I am changing over to E3D V6 on my UMO, and have elected to used the k-type thermocouples sold by e3d with the standard/original UMO amplifier board.\n\n\nOr to be more precise, from this post, on \nTHERMOCOUPLE SENSOR REPLACEMENT, it is a 3 mm k-type thermocouple:\n\n\n I would ask the reseller to measure the thermocouple to be really 3mm. I never bough a thermocoupler so no idea. I know that some aliexpress sellers did sell me a pt100 with 3.05mm (it doesn't fit in) so is good idea to ask for a photo with a caliper before paying.\n\n\nThe thermocouple in question, on AliExpress was this, SWMAKER Thermoelement Typ K (TC) für Ultimaker Original 3D drucker 3mm K thermoelement typ für Ultimaker Original 3D drucker, ~$10\n\nOr this, considerably more expensive at €33, Ultimaker Original - Thermocouple Sensor (out of stock):\n\n\n\n\n\nWith respect to the firmware, from this post, on E3D Thermocouple mount on UMO+\n\n\n Normally you won't have any modifications to do cause your UMO already works with a thermocouple.\n\n\nSo, assuming that you have an AD595 amplifier and not a MAX6675, ensure that you have\n\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 -1\n\n\nset in Configuration.h\n\n//===========================================================================\n//=============================Thermal Settings ============================\n//===========================================================================\n//\n//--NORMAL IS 4.7kohm PULLUP!-- 1kohm pullup can be used on hotend sensor, using correct resistor and table\n//\n//// Temperature sensor settings:\n// -2 is thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0)\n// -1 is thermocouple with AD595\n// 0 is not used\n// 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup)\n// 2 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup)\n// 3 is Mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup)\n// 4 is 10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high temp. !!\n// 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (4.7k pullup)\n// 6 is 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup)\n// 7 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 (4.7k pullup)\n// 71 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAF-J01 (4.7k pullup)\n// 8 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup)\n// 9 is 100k GE Sensing AL03006-58.2K-97-G1 (4.7k pullup)\n// 10 is 100k RS thermistor 198-961 (4.7k pullup)\n// 11 is 100k beta 3950 1% thermistor (4.7k pullup)\n// 12 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup) (calibrated for Makibox hot bed)\n// 13 is 100k Hisens 3950 1% up to 300°C for hotend \"\"Simple ONE \"\" & \"\"Hotend \"\"All In ONE\"\" \n// 20 is the PT100 circuit found in the Ultimainboard V2.x\n// 60 is 100k Maker's Tool Works Kapton Bed Thermistor beta=3950\n//\n// 1k ohm pullup tables - This is not normal, you would have to have changed out your 4.7k for 1k\n// (but gives greater accuracy and more stable PID)\n// 51 is 100k thermistor - EPCOS (1k pullup)\n// 52 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (1k pullup)\n// 55 is 100k thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (1k pullup)\n//\n// 1047 is Pt1000 with 4k7 pullup\n// 1010 is Pt1000 with 1k pullup (non standard)\n// 147 is Pt100 with 4k7 pullup\n// 110 is Pt100 with 1k pullup (non standard)\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 -1\n\n\n\n\nHowever, according to \nQuestions about thermocouple and thermistor, the UMO board is 1.5.7, and can use NTC100K thermistors and (maybe - but it isn't clear) a 4.7K pullup resistor:\n\n\n Firstly we have to do the Challenge with a Sainsmart UM Kit with that UM 1.5.7 Board.\n \n We also have bought the print heads by E3D model V6 which have including ntc 100k thermistors which have already tables in marlin. As the V1.5.7. Board works with thermocouple, there was the question how to connect this. I got already an answere to just connect Signal and GND, to the board but I'd have to look for the resistors behind the connectors. Is it true, that I need a different resistor for each type of thermistor?\n\n\nHowever, it is probably advisable to stick with the 3 mm k-type thermocouple, for simplicity's sake.\n\n\n\nFootnote\n\n1 Apparently for these reasons, from this post, on \nTHERMOCOUPLE SENSOR REPLACEMENT:\n\n\n The UMO has the 'old' UltiBoard 1.5x which is a shield for an Arduino Mega, with the Pololu / Allegro stepper drivers plugged on it (Like the RAMPS controllers).\n \n At that time RTDs where not very popular, and most printers came with thermistors. To improve the temperature feedback loop Ultimaker decided to use a thermocouple with an amplifier on top of the print head, which gives better results in particular at higher temperatures.\n \n If you want to use a thermsitor instead of the thermcopule, you just have to swap the connections, and add a resistor on the board (the place for the resistor is foreseen on the board).\n \n You can even go for an RTD using E3D's adapter plate.\n \n The UMO+ is using the UltiBoard 2.x which is the same as in the Ultimaker 2, so it is PT100...\n\n\nNote: RTD = Resistance Temperature Detector (such as a Pt100). A thermistor is similar to an RTD, but contains a ceramic or polymer resistor en lieu of metal.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n6859,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Markus Appel,2.528907649931287,3.372103450567224,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,A4988 driver cooling specifications,\"When exchanging the mainboard of my Ultimaker Original, I found the new (unoriginal) mainboard to have a condensator that is quite a little higher than on the original, which means the fan duct doesn't fit any more.\n\nI read somewhere that those A4988 stepper motor drivers don't have to be actively cooled, but a heatsink will be sufficient:\n\n\n\nAfter testing the theory I found the heatsinks to be really hot, but not too hot to touch. Sadly I do not have any means of temperature measurement other than my fingers...\n\nHow hot do they normally get, when should I abort printing and look for a different solution?\n\nAre there any good solutions other than the original cooler & cooling duct?\n\",profesor79,\"The answer to that question is not as simple as it looks as we don't see the hardware.\nMain issue is the current pointed by Himanshu, that generates most of the temperature in the silicon chip. \n\nI was using drivers without active cooling, but my case was open so there was enough heat dispersion. \n\nYou could do a dry run - by creating a command file with G-code like below\n\nG28 \nG1 X200 Y200 F6000 \nG1 X0 Y0 G1 X200 Y200 \n... \n... copy and paste many times to have a 10 minutes run on the printer\n\n\nThat will keep the stepper busy and you could observe radiator temperature and probably see/hear miss-steps.\n\nother solution could be a duct like this one\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6859,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Markus Appel,2.528907649931287,3.372103450567224,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,A4988 driver cooling specifications,\"When exchanging the mainboard of my Ultimaker Original, I found the new (unoriginal) mainboard to have a condensator that is quite a little higher than on the original, which means the fan duct doesn't fit any more.\n\nI read somewhere that those A4988 stepper motor drivers don't have to be actively cooled, but a heatsink will be sufficient:\n\n\n\nAfter testing the theory I found the heatsinks to be really hot, but not too hot to touch. Sadly I do not have any means of temperature measurement other than my fingers...\n\nHow hot do they normally get, when should I abort printing and look for a different solution?\n\nAre there any good solutions other than the original cooler & cooling duct?\n\",Himanshu,\"A4988 become hot when a lot of current draw from them . If it is more than 1.5 Amp. Also you will notice missing steps, missing layers, abnormal print and Stepper motor become hot .It automatically shutdown at max temp.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3346,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Diesel,2.1782824847157594,3.6626933444091816,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Dimensions off on final part,\"I'm experiencing an issue with my Makerbot Replicator 2X (2000+ hours printing). The dimensions of my final part are smaller than what is initially modeled. My parts have been coming out roughly 0.3mm smaller than what is initially modeled. Is this a common issue or does this sound more like I may have a hardware issue?\n\nI've confirmed that all my belts are tensioned properly and lubricated correctly. I haven't seen a calibration step that would correct for this issue short of manually scaling my parts to correct for the offset. The offset appears to only occur in the XY axis, never seems to happen in Z though\n\nExample: \nIn the part modeled I had the width designed to be 35 mm (face to face, parallel walls). It doesn't seem to matter what size of part I have the final dimensions always seem to be off by about the same amount.\n\n\n\",StarWind0,\"Yup that is what happens. It is simply the plastic cooling and shrinking. It will happen on just about any printer. 0.3mm on a what 40mm part. That is 99.3% on target. \n\nThere are some great blog links about it, \nand here is a Stack overflow where I talk about it more in detail.\n\nThe only mitigations I can think of is\n1) use a hear chamber.\n2) use a SLA 3d printer.\n\nI wouldn't worry about it. Just make sure your designs have good tolerances.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n3431,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Diesel,4.030301511886631,6.608957455155385,1.7539669625835614,5.646830619998737,3.548335113978322,2.8086301675739853,What causes bubbles in extruded filament?,\"I've noticed this on almost ever print I've ever had. On the initial first line that clears the extruder nozzle tiny little bubbles/craters seem to form on the line. While I don't think these are causing any issue with my prints I'm curious to know the reason why they form at all. \n\nIs this due to water absorption in my filament that turns to steam, which then bursts through the molten plastic? Is it due to air bubbles in the filament that are cause by the manufacturing process of the filament? Or is this more an indication that my nozzle is damaged or clogged in some way?\n\n\n\nThis image was made using ABS plastic and a heated build plate. I've noticed these same 'bubbles' appearing using PLA, and Nylon. \n\nEdit: Nozzle temperature 240°C, build plate temperature 150°C, Nozzle diameter 0.4 mm, filament diameter (measured 1.75 mm) retraction distance 1.7 mm. Using the Makerbot Desktop Slicer.\n\nThe first line that my printer extrudes, where I'm seeing these 'bubbles' is a nearly full line. Makerbot starts from the right side of the image, extruding to the left. \n\n\n\",StarWind0,\"Oh yeah, that's simple. You are printing too hot and are literally boiling the plastic. Else you have water. However if it was water you would hear Crackling as it printed. If it is too hot you will not hear nearly as much. I am 87.341% sure you are printing too hot. \n\nLooking at your printing temps you are without a doubt printing too hot.\n\nFrom this link on 3d hubs.\n\n\n PLA (Only on Replicator 2) Print temp: 210°C (at 100m/s) Notes: heated\n bed optional between 40 and 60°C \n \n ABS (Only on Replicator 2X) Print\n temp: 230°C (at 100m/s) Notes: heated bed at 110°C\n\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n3431,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Diesel,4.030301511886631,6.608957455155385,1.7539669625835614,5.646830619998737,3.548335113978322,2.8086301675739853,What causes bubbles in extruded filament?,\"I've noticed this on almost ever print I've ever had. On the initial first line that clears the extruder nozzle tiny little bubbles/craters seem to form on the line. While I don't think these are causing any issue with my prints I'm curious to know the reason why they form at all. \n\nIs this due to water absorption in my filament that turns to steam, which then bursts through the molten plastic? Is it due to air bubbles in the filament that are cause by the manufacturing process of the filament? Or is this more an indication that my nozzle is damaged or clogged in some way?\n\n\n\nThis image was made using ABS plastic and a heated build plate. I've noticed these same 'bubbles' appearing using PLA, and Nylon. \n\nEdit: Nozzle temperature 240°C, build plate temperature 150°C, Nozzle diameter 0.4 mm, filament diameter (measured 1.75 mm) retraction distance 1.7 mm. Using the Makerbot Desktop Slicer.\n\nThe first line that my printer extrudes, where I'm seeing these 'bubbles' is a nearly full line. Makerbot starts from the right side of the image, extruding to the left. \n\n\n\",drummerboy,\"I had a similar issue with my Prusa i3 mk2. In researching what could cause extrusion to be nonuniform, I found that it could be due to a number of things:\n\n\nNozzle height\nFlow rate\nBed/Nozzle/Ambient Temperature\nImproper bed leveling\nDirty reservoir or filament\nLow quality filament\nHardware failure\netc...\n\n\nFor me, the problem happened to be a hardware failure where the screw that held the pulley in place on the extruder motor had stripped somehow and the pulley was slipping as the printer was trying to extrude. I temporarily fixed this by using a slightly bigger screw, but was able to get a new pulley/screw piece from Prusa Research to replace the part.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3720,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Diesel,2.1782824847157594,4.1764561374575395,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.6553159206313057,Post processing FDM for strength,\"I'm looking for a post processing method for increasing the functional strength of a 3d printed part originally made by FDM. I've tried printing my part with solid infill but the layer separation is still the primary failure point. I'm looking for a way to get something closer to a cast or injection molded part. Obviously less strength but there is a pretty big gap in material properties.\n\nThe only method I've thought of that might work is drilling a small hole, or series of holes in my part to inject an epoxy into the part. Haven't tried it.\n\nI'm open to any possible ideas or advice if someone has tried something like this. Not sure if this is necessarily the best place but thought it's a good place to start.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Recognizing that the posting party feels that FDM constructed parts are of insufficient strength for his purpose and allowing for proper layer bonding, one can understand that the model can be perfectly constructed and not reach the strength objective.\n\nFilling a model with an epoxy or a casting resin will provide additional strength. Testing smaller, non-critical models is recommended to determine the level of increase. The design has to be re-engineered to provide for resin/epoxy flow within the model. Some epoxy and resin formulations generate heat when curing and may soften the model. The solution in such cases is to mix and pour small amounts, allowing for a pause between pours.\n\nAn alternative to filling a model is to reduce the perimeter (if applicable) and apply a reinforcing layer. I've constructed satisfactorily printed models with insufficient strength for my purposes, but then applied fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin to the outside. A single layer provided the necessary strength in my case.\n\nOne could apply sufficient layers to provide all the necessary strength, effectively turning the model into a positive mold. This is commonly done with amateur-built aircraft of the Burt Rutan design style. More recently, an article appeared on the internet of a model being printed with wash-away support material only, covered in carbon fiber. The wash-away was washed away and the wing structure became the product. For your application, it may not be necessary or practical to remove the inner model.\n\nJust as with the injection concept, one must re-engineer the model to allow for this type of reinforcement. Edges will have to be radiused or the sharp termination of reinforcement layer will become a weak point. Tight inside angles will have a similar problem.\n\nFiberglass cloth comes in various weights, measured in ounces per square foot (US). The lighter cloth is more capable of \"\"turning corners\"\" and fitting into tight angles.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n3720,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Diesel,2.1782824847157594,4.1764561374575395,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.6553159206313057,Post processing FDM for strength,\"I'm looking for a post processing method for increasing the functional strength of a 3d printed part originally made by FDM. I've tried printing my part with solid infill but the layer separation is still the primary failure point. I'm looking for a way to get something closer to a cast or injection molded part. Obviously less strength but there is a pretty big gap in material properties.\n\nThe only method I've thought of that might work is drilling a small hole, or series of holes in my part to inject an epoxy into the part. Haven't tried it.\n\nI'm open to any possible ideas or advice if someone has tried something like this. Not sure if this is necessarily the best place but thought it's a good place to start.\n\",Barafu Albino,\"Layer separation will always be the primary failure point of FDM. So your best action would be to design parts in such a way that forces are applied across the Z axis, not along it. \n\nIf layer bonding is too weak, this is a problem that should be solved during printing. Possible reasons are: \n\n\nNozzle temperature too low\nFilament contains moisture from the air\nFilament covered with dust\nInappropriate ratio of nozzle diameter/layer height. We usually use 2 (0.4 nozzle for 0.2 layer) while theory suggests it should be more than 3.\nInappropriate cooling of part during printing, drafts. \n\n\nIf all this things are set right, no post-process treatment will improve the part. If not, you could reduce inner tensions by blasting the part with hot air gun, but it is better to solve the problem, not the consequences. \n\",0.0,0.0\n3776,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Diesel,1.0891412423578797,3.7127158133162173,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,\"FDM, ABS Post-processing methods\",\"I have built a few parts that have printed 'pins' on them (2mm diameter 1.5 cm length). Due to the orientation that the build requires the pins have to have support material on them. (The part has to be printed with the pins parallel to the build plate for strength reasons and the orientation can't change).\n\nThe problems i'm having is that the surface of the pins are quite rough. The pins are designed to press-fit into a soft rubbery tube, and the pin surface roughness is cutting into the softer tube. The roughness is due to both the layer edges of the print, and that the support material leaving some 'burrs'. I'd like to smooth the outside of my pins with some type of post processing technique. Ideally I'd like to keep the pins as close to dimensionally accurate as possible, but I realize they won't be perfect.\n\nThe two methods I've considered are sanding the pins by hand and placing my part in an acetone vapor chamber for a while. \n\nSanding, I think, is the best option of the two so far but it's a bit tedious, and is quite difficult to do, due to the size of the pins, their location and my fingers are pretty big relative to the space I'm working in.\n\nI don't like the idea of using acetone because the few times I've tried doing this in the past, my parts always came out warped or misshapen I think due to the relief of stresses. (or I did it wrong, both seem plausible).\n\nIf anyone has a third option (or more) I'd be glad to hear. Or if there is another approach altogether that I haven't considered that can be done on an FDM style printer that would also be appreciated.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Your objective is quite a challenge, considering the limitations within which you have to operate. Small diameter of an appreciable length is daunting indeed.\n\nI would consider to use a regulated heat source such as a soldering station, one with removable tips. After electing an appropriate tip to handle the dimensions, a hole drilled into the tip to accept the pin diameter and length would be the next step.\n\nThere would be consideration needed for the plastic material pushed ahead of the soldering tip, as well as angular stability while pushing the soldering iron onto the pins.\n\nTo improve these circumstances, a sharp edge ground at the end of the soldering iron tip would give a better shearing of the excess plastic. \n\nThe temperature control would be critical to prevent destruction of the pin within the tip and to provide optimum removal via the cutting end.\n\nDirectly related to the above, but without the heat would be the equivalent tool to be used in a rotary grinder such as a Dremel. The bore of the custom-made cutter would match the pin and the sharp cutting end could also have serrations such as those found on hole-saws. Low speeds and a steady hand are required!\n\nIf either of the above suggestions do not remove sufficient plastic roughness, one would make the pins of a larger diameter and ensure that excess is removed to specifications.\n\nEDIT: Additional thoughts. Hobby stores and online equivalents will sell very small diameter tubing. It might be an easy matter to find 2 mm inside diameter tubing of brass or even stainless steel. A few passes on a piece of sandpaper while the tubing is chucked in an electric hand drill and you have a sharp cutting edge.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3793,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Diesel,2.8153892694839717,3.9871856251858135,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.2576023278269264,Printing coarse threads,\"I have a makerbot, and am using their slicer program. The part I am printing has an extremely coarse thread, 5 threads per inch with a 2 mm thread height. The thread face is at a 30 degree angle (15 degrees of overhang)\n\nI have printed external threads like this without issue and without support material before for various gardening tools (a flow straightener for example). I'm now trying to print an internal threaded part however the rest of the part needs to have support. I've played with the settings in the makerbot software but can't find a combination that will acomplish my goal. \n\nI'm looking for an idea, a setting, or an alternate way of printing the threads without support, but still have supports for the other sections of the part that I know do need them. \n\nPerhaps there is an alternate software that can do something like this, or is best practice to modify the part to have weak structural elements to support the extremely overhanging sections that I'll then break off afterwards and print the part with no supports?\n\",Diesel,\"I feel a little ridiculous that I didn't try this earlier, but in the Makerware software you can set a minimum overhang to print support material. I've been working to this point (3 years now) assuming they've been measuring the angle from the vertical, not the horizontal. I was wrong. \n\nThe solution that I came up with was to calculate the maximum overhang of the internal threads inside the helix, and then not use breakaway support below that angle. \n\nNot the prettiest print I've ever done, but the threads came out useful at least. I'll need to lay with the settings a bit to make sure the part isn't going wonky from the minimal support but as of now it seems to be working well.\n\nA better slicer would've made this whole process MUCH easier, and I'm going to look into them pronto \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3793,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Diesel,2.8153892694839717,3.9871856251858135,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.2576023278269264,Printing coarse threads,\"I have a makerbot, and am using their slicer program. The part I am printing has an extremely coarse thread, 5 threads per inch with a 2 mm thread height. The thread face is at a 30 degree angle (15 degrees of overhang)\n\nI have printed external threads like this without issue and without support material before for various gardening tools (a flow straightener for example). I'm now trying to print an internal threaded part however the rest of the part needs to have support. I've played with the settings in the makerbot software but can't find a combination that will acomplish my goal. \n\nI'm looking for an idea, a setting, or an alternate way of printing the threads without support, but still have supports for the other sections of the part that I know do need them. \n\nPerhaps there is an alternate software that can do something like this, or is best practice to modify the part to have weak structural elements to support the extremely overhanging sections that I'll then break off afterwards and print the part with no supports?\n\",mbmcavoy,\"There are some software tools that let you manually design support structures so you can target the areas that need them, and avoid others.\n\nFor example, Meshmixer can be used to add supports into your STL. I believe you still use a separate slicer.\n\nSome slicers also have the ability to manually add support. I have found that CraftWare and Simplify3D have this kind of feature.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n3861,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Diesel,3.0576060275493275,4.274697330876248,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,FDM layer bonding strength,\"I'm looking for some advice, rules of thumb, or models for how to design parts for layer bonding strength.\n\nAs an example part, lets assume a circular beam in bending (tall cylinder). Depending on how the part is setup on the build platform (tube axis aligned parallel to Z, or setup to lay in the X-Y plane) the layers and internal structure will then be different depending on the orientation chosen at the time of building. Does/has anyone done any investigation to what roles these factors will play on simple shapes like a solid cylinder?\n\nIdeally, with a CNC'd, injection molded part the total strength of a solid part is quite easy to model (mathematically) for strength and flexibility. However, with a 3D printed part the orientation makes the isotropic material properties effectively anisotropic, as layers don't bond perfectly, different cooling rates, and a host of other reasons. \n\nIdeally I'd love to find a 'simplified' model that can be applied to hand-calculations to come up with rough approximations to part strength and bending. My guess is that these parts would be modeled something similar to an ABD matrix, similar to composite materials, but that's just a guess.\n\",markshancock,\"I have not been able to find a simple model for FDM part strength. FDM parts are pretty complicated as they have a LOT more things that affect their strength than just layer adhesion. Since any \"\"solid\"\" part will have infill, the part can't really be modeled as a laminant. There are so many settings you can play with in the slicer that effects part strength, the model would have to have tens (if not hundreds) of parameters. Also, you would likely have to establish them for your own printer since lots of things can affect them (like room temp, ventilation, humidity, material, material storage, ...)\n\nOne empirical example discussing the affects of FDM choices on part strength is a video done by Angus at Marker's Muse. In the video he discussed how orientation and wall thickness affects strength. Angus is not a math/ME guy (by his own admission). FEA or other modeling would not be his approach; but, you can get some insight from his experience.\n\nOn the modeling front, I have seen one company that did create an FEA model to test whether their product would be strong enough if they produced it using FDM. Here is the publication they wrote showing their analysis approach. It will give you some insight on how they approached what I think you want to do. \n\nNote: They do offer a service where you can pay to have your part analyzed for a considerable amount of money. I have no idea how much money; but, based on jobs I have quoted in the past, I would expect it would be a least a few hundreds dollars.\n\nAs for me, I really enjoy basing my decisions on models and understanding how a part/process works. In this case; however, an empirical/experimental approach might be more cost effective. If you really want to take an analytical approach (and have the time to spend doing it), I would recommend choosing several key parameters and run an analysis using DOE (Design of Experiments).\n\nIf you come up with something, I would love to see it posted here.\n\nGood luck and happy printing.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n3985,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Diesel,3.452496054252184,5.52802618750593,0.0,2.011441651225199,4.376800063013361,4.912918248458232,How long is an extruder's/nozzle's life?,\"I've been using a printer for several years now and I've never replaced any of my extruder hardware (nozzles, steppers, gears etc.). I was wondering how long you should expect your extruder hardware to last? Is it indefinite, or are there normal life expectancies on them?\n\nAlso, what signs should you look for, in your prints, that would suggest that your nozzle is starting to wear out? \n\nI'm more interested in the parts that contact your filament directly - I'm painfully familiar with replacing gantry parts (X-Y belts and pulleys).\n\",tbm0115,\"This is highly dependent upon the type and quality of filament you use.\n\nExotic materials such as wood, metalic, or otherwise infused plastics can potentially wear out the inside of the nozzle and at the very least leave deposits of composite material in the nozzle. This can lead to more frequent or irreversible clogs. You may also notice your prints becoming \"\"stringy-er\"\" (sorry for lack of vocabulary at the moment) as the volume of your nozzle reduces with more deposits sitting in the basin of the nozzle, therefore leading to lighter extrusions against what your slicer is expecting.\n\nLower quality materials (common ABS/PLA) can also have an effect on your nozzles life span. So can good quality filament, don't get me wrong. However, lower quality materials have a tendency to go through much more drastic material changes during the printing process than better quality filaments. For instance, a lower quality PLA may not be 100% PLA. It could have 10% Nylon, 5% ABS, 0.1% operator's BandAid, and 83% PLA. Well, the 17% of the filament that isn't PLA has the potential to clog the nozzle just as easily as the exotic filaments. This is why it's so important to verify the quality of your source of filaments.\n\nSome signs that your nozzle may be wearing:\n\n\nIt simply clogs more frequently\nThe printed part looks \"\"stringy\"\" or \"\"bubbly\"\". The \"\"stringy\"\" effect is that the extruder is not extruding at a fast enough rate for the speed of the motion, which is common if your extruder is about to clog, your filament is crappy quality, or your slicing settings are invalid for your machine. The \"\"bubbly\"\" effect can be from an overheated extruder or another sign that your nozzle is about clogged.\nYour filament begins curling around the nozzle as it initially comes out. Typically there is a burr or something that catches the filament on its way out that you can simply take a small file to grind it off, but sometimes it may be because there is the build-up of deposits towards one side of the basin.\n\n\",3.7511513460834345,2.0769199823829045\n3353,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Silberling,2.8153892694839717,4.769970590007592,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Calculating extruder motor steps for 1 mm,\"I would like to calculate the amount of steps to turn the motor to have 1 mm of the filament.\n\nI did the following (using approximate values):\n\nThe gear on the outside of the teeth as a diameter of 11mm.\nTherefore the circumference is 34.56mm. Divided into one degree i get 0.096mm / degree. The stepper does 1.8 degree per step which results in 0.1728mm per step.\n\nTo get 1mm of filament pushed into the extruder I will have to do 5.787 steps.\n\nThe same extruder is in a Geeetech i3. The firmware there is configured to do 93 steps per millimeter.\n\nI don't have any experience in working with stepper motors but in theory, this would be my approach with a huge difference to an existing firmware.\n\nWhere is my mistake?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Microstepping. Your board likely has 16x microstepping, so that each step is divided up into 16 parts. Your 5.787 figure, when multiplied by 16, comes out to 92.6 steps/mm - matching the value in your firmware.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n3361,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,blah42,2.8153892694839717,4.329476789776803,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,3d prints come up with ribbing on one side,\"The right side of my prints always have the standard ribbing effect given by a bent z rod, however I have replaced the rod and there was no change. Here are pictures of one of my more recent prints:\n\nand the left side of that same print:\n\nAs you can see the left is almost unaffected the right is the only side with the error. Anyone have any ideas about this?\n\",StarWind0,\"Hmmmm In my experience when a printer has that bad of wobble it is still the Z axis. Your rods might be good, but are the two Z axis the exact correct distance and equal distance on the printer frame? Imagine that you had one a few millimeters too far out. How might the rods act? Mayhaps, over the course of several layers, they would slowly drift back and forth? Creating a period effect on your print? What do the top of the rods do over time? Do they move a lot if you go from height 0 to 100mm on z?\n\nI have a few ideas. What happens if you loosen you Z motors so they can move around their mount? I had to do that on my Prusa back in the day. I think for that machine the Belt was actually too tight causing the issue. Current printers are usually better designed so its unlikely that is your issue. Also measure the distance between the top of the rods when the carriage is at 0, and at max. You should see very little variance.\n\nIf it was on both sides I would say it was bad PID calibration. IE this simplify 3d link\n\nThough you can see on this forum the fellow had a bad coupler. So still mechanical. \n\nAlso could be back lash / belt lash.. but unlikely\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n3363,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nicu Surdu,2.528907649931287,5.406005945661293,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Blow vs suck air over hotend's heatsink,\"I've build a 3D printer from sourced parts and mounted the hotend cooler to blow air over the heatsink. \n\nTalking to a friend, he said it's better to reverse the airflow over the heatsink, but couldn't give me an argument other than everywhere he saw it was like this: all coolers are mount to suck the hot air away from the heatsink.\n\nIs it one way better than the other way ? And if so, why ?\n\",tbm0115,\"In the case of 3D Printing, it's going to be faster to cool the radiator by blowing out the heat from the source.\n\nThe idea is that you're trying to get rid of as much heat as possible in the quickest means possible. By blowing away from the radiator, you're allowing the ambient temperature to cool the hot air being blown out.\n\nIf you were to blow the ambient air towards the radiator, the blown air will warm slightly as it is overwhelmed by the heat of the radiator. Even though the ambient air may be cooler, it will take more time to cool off the radiator.\n\nExample of bad airflow, which will take much longer to cool the radiator:\n\n\nExample of good airflow, allowing the hot air to be quickly cooled by the ambient temperature of the build space:\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3363,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nicu Surdu,2.528907649931287,5.406005945661293,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Blow vs suck air over hotend's heatsink,\"I've build a 3D printer from sourced parts and mounted the hotend cooler to blow air over the heatsink. \n\nTalking to a friend, he said it's better to reverse the airflow over the heatsink, but couldn't give me an argument other than everywhere he saw it was like this: all coolers are mount to suck the hot air away from the heatsink.\n\nIs it one way better than the other way ? And if so, why ?\n\",darth pixel,\"Getting hot air from the radiator is definitely wrong idea because of few reasons:\n\n\nhot air can damage your fan (as they are usually not heatproof). Cold air cools the fan\ncold air is denser so fan can suck more cold air than hot air so cooling is more efficient (fig A)\nin terms of plug of radiator (with dust) it's much better to try to push cold air into plugged fan (fig C) than to suck the air from it (fig B). When flow is decreased there is higher possibility to damage the fan as it doesn't cool itself\n\n\nOf course we are talking about 3D printers with small plastic fans. Please notice (almost) all fans construction: they are designed to get air from the top of the fan and push it to the bottom (this construction prevents damaging/plugging fan motor by dust)... and their mounting wholes (or clips) are usually... naturally suggesting to direct air to the heatsink)\n\n\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n3465,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nicu Surdu,3.267423727073639,2.9547933789762357,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Cooling for big layers,\"There is an option in Slic3r to disable cooling for layers that take more than n seconds.\n\nWhat would be the disadvantages of having cooling on big layers ?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Warping. Especially with materials like ABS, you want the plastic to cool down as gradually (and slowly) as possible, to prevent the print from warping as the cooling plastic contracts. On small layers, cooling is usually mandatory: with really small layers, you just end up with a big glob of molten plastic if the previous layer hasn't solidified enough before the next layer is put on top.\n\nYou want just enough cooling that the plastic holds its shape, but no more than that. On a large layer, the plastic cools enough naturally without help from a fan.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n3370,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,gregoiregentil,2.1782824847157594,4.954849746545358,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,3D printing a cardboard box,\"Is there an FDM 3D printing material that looks similar to a cardboard box? I guess, and understand, it would not be possible to 3D print a cardboard box but would there be something similar?\n\",StarWind0,\"The closest thing you will find is Woodfill plastic. As time goes on we are seeing more and more PLA that is infused with other materials. Woodfill will look and feel like waxy wood. We are pretty used to seeing fiber boards and the like so this will not come off as odd. However it is not quite cardboard, except that it is also a wood product. It will also smell of wood.\n\nHere is a close up of a beyond exceptional wood fill printed piece. There is also other types of wood fill including bamboo.\n\n\n\nI mean if you want Cardboard.. Why not a laser cutter? While you can get a MUCH cheaper laser cutter, the glowforge comes to mind. \n\n\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n3510,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,gregoiregentil,2.1782824847157594,4.4368952903932035,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.2576023278269264,FDM: Clear=transparent part,\"I intend and would like to print a transparent hemisphere. I have a Taulman T-Glase clear 1.75 mm filament and I have XTC-3D.\n\nYou can read this interesting page, Hacking t-glase to look more like glass!\n\nFirst question, what kind of printing settings should I use? Should I go for a low infill percentage or a high one? Should I go for line or hexagon? I would say 5% line but perhaps there is a better setting.\n\nThen, how should I use XTC-3D as mentioned on the above link? I'm a little bit confused how it can make the part more transparent.\n\",StarWind0,\"First I would hedge your expectations.. I am very familiar with t-glase. It is very translucent but it is not clear and no amount of post treatment will make it 100% clear. Their example is the only exception where you have a simple print where it has only a single layer. By applying the clear coating they have normalized the wall and made the surface even. Thus no more light diffusion. \n\nYou could likely get the same effect with good sanding but good luck sanding a 1 wall thick print. Also note they do not show any solid parts. If they cannot get a solid part to look good and clear, then really you shouldn't expect to be able to. \n\nAny infill will cause it to be non clear. Any extra shells will also create air pockets, lines, etc and make it non clear. If you really want clear, FDM is not the way to go. The only way I could imagine to print an item clear with FDM is to create a cast, then cast it with resin or glass.. \n\nIf you consider how the plastic is applied, you can see there is no real way make it 100% air pocket free.. See below,\n\n\n\nImage taken from here. \n\nThe best I can recommend for settings. Make your temp spot on. If you boil the material you will have less translucency. Play with over extruding (too much material) in a Limited amount. Might reduce gaps. I would also try to print in BIG THICK lines. Less lines, less diffusions.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n3510,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,gregoiregentil,2.1782824847157594,4.4368952903932035,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.2576023278269264,FDM: Clear=transparent part,\"I intend and would like to print a transparent hemisphere. I have a Taulman T-Glase clear 1.75 mm filament and I have XTC-3D.\n\nYou can read this interesting page, Hacking t-glase to look more like glass!\n\nFirst question, what kind of printing settings should I use? Should I go for a low infill percentage or a high one? Should I go for line or hexagon? I would say 5% line but perhaps there is a better setting.\n\nThen, how should I use XTC-3D as mentioned on the above link? I'm a little bit confused how it can make the part more transparent.\n\",Falderol,\"Refraction of light is caused by changes in medium or angle of inflection. Any changes in medium will cause refraction, as such to be the most clear you would not want pockets of air. This means that if you are printing single layer 0% would work. The best appearance would most likely come from 100% infill as there would be no changes in the medium. The epoxy you linked to appears to smooth the surface, The smoother the surface, the clearer it will look. It is the same reason why you don't see clear textured mirrors or windows. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3372,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,YetAnotherRandomUser,2.8153892694839717,3.733501121013017,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Why do I have problems trying to get Slic3r to load a config file?,\"I decided to fire up my 3D Printer again after a while. I have new PCs, so I had to download Slic3r fresh, so I got the latest version (1.2.9). Then I went and found my old config file. It's really old, from 2013!\n\nAnd Slic3r did not load it when I told it to, and consequently, when Octoprint was telling my Printrbot LC (custom) to print my things off Thingiverse, it was not in the bed, and the x axis skipped a few nubs, as would happen when you tell it it's too far away.\n\nI recall having to double and triple check Slic3r to make sure that it actually loaded the configuration I spent time crafting and honing. However, it's obviously been 3-4 years since I last played with this stuff, and this is a very low level feature that should have been fixed at Day 0 or 1.\n\nI presume that I'm doing something wrong. Do I need to stand on 1 leg and hold my mouth just right? I don't even know how I could screw it up...\n\nUpdate\n\nI changed from \"\"Simple\"\" mode to \"\"Advanced\"\" mode, and the config imported fine. Though, I don't think it was my most recent config. C'est la software!\n\",YetAnotherRandomUser,\"I changed from \"\"Simple\"\" mode to \"\"Advanced\"\" mode, and the config imported fine. Though, I don't think it was my most recent config. C'est la software!\n\nAlso, I switched to Cura after this.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4836,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,YetAnotherRandomUser,2.528907649931287,3.3868218217874193,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Do I need to manually enter in gcode to turn off the bed and nozzle?,\"I got into 3D printing back when it was very much an art and not user friendly, and I have not been keeping up with it very much. My Slic3r profile required me to manually put in the GCODE to turn off the nozzle and bed. I'm experimenting with Cura and I can't seem to find a place to enter in GCODE. The program is way more polished than I am used to, so it's possible that it's an automatically enabled feature.\n\nDoes Cura automatically turn off the bed and nozzle after a print is complete, or do I need to manually enter the GCODE somewhere?\n\",YetAnotherRandomUser,\"Using Cura 3.0.3 to create the GCODE and OctoPi/OctoPrint 1.2.7 to print: By default the printer turned off the nozzle and bed, and also homed the X and Y axises.\n\nYou can set start and end GCODE in the preferences for the machine, like so:\n\n\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n4852,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,YetAnotherRandomUser,2.528907649931287,3.293352546145431,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,My print did not turn out as I expected. Where can I start troubleshooting?,\"I am trying to modify this thing. It's prints OK, but there are some design choices I don't like, so, since the previous makers uploaded their source files, I tried my hand at Sketchup.\n\nMy latest round of changes have produced a weird phenomenon, and I'm not sure how to describe it. The slicer sees the GCODE as I intend, but for some reason the printer is printing something different than what the slicer is showing me. I am primarily concerned with the top of this case, but the base does not have the additional screw holes I made, so the phenomenon, whatever it is, is not limited to a single part.\n\n\nSketchup v17.2.25555\nCura v3.0.3\nOctoPi/OctoPrint 1.2.7\nPrintrBot LC custom\nGrey Inland PLA+ @~180C, bed @~60C (my temps are higher than the software thinks they are, so I have to put the temp lower in the software)\n\n\nYou can see the parts in Sketchup:\n\n\n\nThe corner on the left was giving me no end of trouble! I left it with a messed up hole because I could more easily clean it up with a drill bit than spend another few hours futzing with that corner.\n\n\n\nThis is in Cura, after I have sliced it. Looks fine to me! There is a bit of red in that problematic corner, but I only noticed that after the print came out weird.\n\n\n\nThis is the output of the printer. Notice how the edge near the GPIO pins is shorter than the rest, and how the hole is inverted into a protrusion. This is the opposite of what I want, and the opposite of what I see in the other softwares.\n\n\n\n\n\",darth pixel,\"first issue\n\nbed inclination. it has to be heavy issue :)\n\nif you have any other printouts then please reveal them so we could see if it's the problem\n\nnext issue\n\ninversion of hole into solid object\n\ni would say it's caused by wrong calculation of normal vector to some face(s)\n\nalgorithm uses normal to calculates what is \"\"inside\"\" and what is not\n\nit's hard to say if it's an issue of \n\n\nobject itself\napplication in which you modify it (even if duplicating or joining with other objects)\nslicer engine\n\n\nto fix the issue, you can try edit your object (recreate this hole)\n\nbut first - definitelly i'd align your bed properly ;)\n\nEDIT\n\nafter closer look i bet it's the issue of bad object. it looks like pointed line is kinda remnant of some operations made on object in the past\n\nin other words - it's possible place where normals are reverted and doesn't \"\"create\"\" inside but outside\n\nall above this line is reverted. part of body disappeared and part of hole appeared\n\nthis is the issue for sure!\n\n\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4852,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,YetAnotherRandomUser,2.528907649931287,3.293352546145431,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,My print did not turn out as I expected. Where can I start troubleshooting?,\"I am trying to modify this thing. It's prints OK, but there are some design choices I don't like, so, since the previous makers uploaded their source files, I tried my hand at Sketchup.\n\nMy latest round of changes have produced a weird phenomenon, and I'm not sure how to describe it. The slicer sees the GCODE as I intend, but for some reason the printer is printing something different than what the slicer is showing me. I am primarily concerned with the top of this case, but the base does not have the additional screw holes I made, so the phenomenon, whatever it is, is not limited to a single part.\n\n\nSketchup v17.2.25555\nCura v3.0.3\nOctoPi/OctoPrint 1.2.7\nPrintrBot LC custom\nGrey Inland PLA+ @~180C, bed @~60C (my temps are higher than the software thinks they are, so I have to put the temp lower in the software)\n\n\nYou can see the parts in Sketchup:\n\n\n\nThe corner on the left was giving me no end of trouble! I left it with a messed up hole because I could more easily clean it up with a drill bit than spend another few hours futzing with that corner.\n\n\n\nThis is in Cura, after I have sliced it. Looks fine to me! There is a bit of red in that problematic corner, but I only noticed that after the print came out weird.\n\n\n\nThis is the output of the printer. Notice how the edge near the GPIO pins is shorter than the rest, and how the hole is inverted into a protrusion. This is the opposite of what I want, and the opposite of what I see in the other softwares.\n\n\n\n\n\",Valmond,\"Looks like you are over extruding.\n\ncheck out this visual guide for example (I like it a lot):\n\nhttp://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide\n\nFor the protruding thingy, it seems (as the other hole is filled up with over extruded filament, it seems) that it's the \"\"hole\"\" printed. For the rest of the \"\"wall\"\" where that hole should have been, it seems it was just not printed. What size is it (if too thin, the slicer might just discard it, doesn't seems like it but you didn't tell nozzle size etc).\n\nI don't know, but I think you should start with calibrating your machine first so that you actually can print small holes like that.\n\nFor the missing wall, what does the slice result look like?\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4982,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,YetAnotherRandomUser,4.626593049438165,7.204475732746181,2.7799718631987322,5.199501240805782,3.320478682445624,2.344026260222684,What is PLA+? How is it different from PLA?,\"Question\n\nWhat is PLA+? How is it different than PLA? I'm looking for science, composition, formula, safety concerns (or lack thereof), etc.\n\nBackground\n\nI picked up a roll of PLA+ at Microcenter (their in-house Inland brand) because it was on clearance. I didn't even notice the \"\"+\"\" until I decided to try that color, and then I noticed it on the sticker. It prints well, feels like ABS, smells like PLA when printing, and I can use PLA temps on my printer. It sands better than PLA, and if I I hadn't noticed the PLA+ sticker, and the smell, I would think it was ABS. It will break its line into my printer like PLA does; ABS doesn't break if left alone. However, PLA+ lasts longer than regular PLA before breaking.\n\nGetting info from the Internet\n\nAside from a few discussions on reddit (review, commercial introduction), I can't find anything about it.\n\nGetting info from the Manufacturer\n\nI went back to Microcenter and the guy that was there working the 3d printing section did not know what I was talking about.\n\nI went to Microcenter another time and the guy in the filament area said that all of their PLA filament was now PLA+, and that the + meant it was to be used at a higher temperature. The boxes are labeled with 205 - 225°C. It seems that all the inland brand PLA I have is PLA+, save for the first roll I bought. It does not have any kind of temperature markings on it.\n\nFlash forward 1.5+ years from the original question\n\nThis question got some recent attention, so I looked to find the answer again. I found this article, which is a hot pile of !usefulness, giving no data, lots of opinion, and probably some direct insights from someone's marketing department.\n\nThese guys say it's good stuff, but nothing about the chemical or compositional difference between the two. When I find people talking about the difference (like on reddit), those are the details usually mentioned, which are vague, anecdotal, and opinionated, and could be clever marketing (could be, not guaranteed to be). One man's shiny is another man's matte for example.\n\nMonoprice confirmed what I already did by reading the label and printing with it, but does mention TPU, which might be Thermoplastic polyurethane. No quantity or proportion or anything, and since they're the only manufacturer/reseller to officially say this, I consider it unconfirmed. One of the answers below says that PLA+ probably includes TPU or something like it, but that's conjecture or opinion by their own admission. \n\n\n PLA+ is a variation of PLA that has added material in order to make\n the filament less brittle, have a smoother surface finish, and less\n likely to absorb moisture. Typically, TPU is added into the filament\n in order to achieve this property. PLA+ will have the feel and\n functionality of ABS without the smell. If you didn’t know better, you\n would think it was ABS. We suggest printing with PLA+ at 205 to 210\n degrees Celsius and with a bed temperature of 45 degrees Celsius. PLA+\n responds very well to blue painter’s tape and a glue stick to hold\n properly and not peel up when printing.\n\n\nThese people also ask what it is, but they're doing science about it circa 2014 to try to figure it out.\n\nI'm not sure what to think of this manufacturer/seller's description. It sounds like they are implying that PLA has a branding problem, so they added a plus to it for a new formula to fix their branding.\n\n\n PLA Plus is an enhanced version of our PLA that's less brittle and\n more durable. ‘Enhanced’ PLAs have a bad reputation, some are no\n better than PLA, some perform worse in some conditions. We’ve taken a\n different approach: our ‘regular’ PLA is regarded as the strongest\n pure PLA in the industry, it’s hard to improve on the best. But\n sometimes you need something a little more durable. Enter our\n specially formulated PLA Plus. Prints like PLA, but with better\n durability. Its available with their brighter color options!\n\n\nFinal thoughts\n\nI find a lot of articles/posts talking about \"\"eSun PLA+\"\" specifically. I'm starting to think that this might be the OEM and that other companies are selling it with their own branding, but that all PLA+ comes from the same place. I found their product page, and it says this, which mentions nothing about the formula:\n\n\n Characteristics：\n \n \n extracted and purified from corn grain;\n high rigidity, good glossiness and transparency;\n suitable for printing larger models;\n toughness is 2 times more than the PLA on the market;\n no wiredrawing problems, the surface of the printouts will be smoother and more delicate;\n no cracking problem.\n \n\n\",Trish,\"Disclaimer: I am not affiliated with any linked brand or company, I just link to them for reference of the suggested print settings.\n\nWhat is PLA?\n\nPLA is, by its definition PolyLacticAcid, a polymer of entwined lactic acids. It is commonly made from fermenting starch - not via Type I (alcohol) but Type II (lactic acid) fermentationuser77232, Wikipedia. Chemically it looks like this:\n\n\n\nIt's relevant physical data for the pure material are a density of 1.210–1.430 g·cm−3 and a melting point of 150 to 160 °C.Wikipedia.\n\nUsually, PLA sold under just the name PLA contains, besides PLA, additives to change the color from transparent to whatever color one is printing at. This can change the standard printing temperature depending on the amount, size and shape of the pigments embedded (see below).\n\nCommon Printing temperatures are listed by the manufacturers in the range of 185 to 210 °C. The color can have an influence on the printing temperature, especially for the difference between transparent and opaque filaments. While a heated bed is not strictly necessary, the bed temperature is usually quoted with 60 °C. \n\nI myself print most PLA filaments at 200 °C and 60 °C bed, but for noncolored transparent filament, I had better results using 190 °C.\n\nNote that not all PLA is just PLA! It is very likely that some PLA brands contain fillers and additives from the house without claiming to be a +-filament, indeed, additives precede the idea of PLA+, as the case with Tiertime PP3DP filaments will show. \n\nThe special Tiertime mixture\n\nSince back in 2012 or earlier, ABS made by Tiertime includes some unknown compound (possibly PC) that alters the best-result print temperature from the \"\"normal\"\" 220 - 240 °C to the much higher but narrower 260 - 270 °C band. Why this is done is a mystery among 3d-printing enthusiasts, but it might be either to get rid of any color-dependency of the print results or to make it harder to use generic ABS. Fact is, that this temperature was matching what was set as the (then unchangeable) standard temperature in the Up 1.1.7 software of that time.Angus aka MakersMuse & Tiertime Forums. The higher temperature hasn't changed over the yearsTiertime ABS. Indeed, the Tiertime PLA introduced in March 2014Tiertime is also quoted to print at higher temperatures than generic PLA, and had similarly a higher default temperature in the then updated UP-spftwareTiertime Forums, though I found listings from 200here & here to 215 °Chere under Technische Daten. \n\nThe modern UP-Studio software allows setting the temperature freelyAngus aka MakersMuse.\n\nWhat is PLA+?\n\nNow, what differs PLA from PLA+? Well, PLA+ is a modified PLA, which means that it has additives in it to alter its properties. What exactly is added depends extremely on the manufacturer, and no two PLA+ are the same.all3dp.\n\nWhat is the difference?\n\nPLA+ has - but for a few degrees - the same printing temperature as standard PLA. In fact, the printing temperature difference between standard PLA from different brands is often larger than the difference between PLA and PLA+.\n\nAll3dp claims, that most PLA+ would have a better surface finish than the PLA from the same brand. Because of the additives, they also usually print best at elevated temperature compared to PLA. Among various manufacturers, I saw 210–240 °CKodak PLA+, 190-220 °CSUNLU PLA+ and 190-210 °CeSun PLA+.\n\nHowever, there is no uniformity in other effects on the filament. Some filaments would have less moisture absorption, a different stiffness or compressibility while others might have a higher tensile strength and feature an extremely glossy surface.\n\nMost commonly, the claimed benefits lie in the fields of the filament's strength, surface texture and glossiness, the printability of overhangs. \n\nConclusion\n\nPLA+ is not one product per se but a family of modified PLA. While you can print PLA+ with the same settings as normal PLA, the resulting benefits between different brands are much more diverse than with normal PLA.\n\n\nChanging between different brands of similar quality normal PLA has usually little to no effect on the print's general properties.\nChanging between different brands of similar quality PLA+ can alter the print's properties immensely\n\n\nBecause of the fact that no two brands of PLA+ are the same (and the manufacturers are silent on what additives they use to change the properties), one should not rely on the same effects when switching between brands.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n4982,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,YetAnotherRandomUser,4.626593049438165,7.204475732746181,2.7799718631987322,5.199501240805782,3.320478682445624,2.344026260222684,What is PLA+? How is it different from PLA?,\"Question\n\nWhat is PLA+? How is it different than PLA? I'm looking for science, composition, formula, safety concerns (or lack thereof), etc.\n\nBackground\n\nI picked up a roll of PLA+ at Microcenter (their in-house Inland brand) because it was on clearance. I didn't even notice the \"\"+\"\" until I decided to try that color, and then I noticed it on the sticker. It prints well, feels like ABS, smells like PLA when printing, and I can use PLA temps on my printer. It sands better than PLA, and if I I hadn't noticed the PLA+ sticker, and the smell, I would think it was ABS. It will break its line into my printer like PLA does; ABS doesn't break if left alone. However, PLA+ lasts longer than regular PLA before breaking.\n\nGetting info from the Internet\n\nAside from a few discussions on reddit (review, commercial introduction), I can't find anything about it.\n\nGetting info from the Manufacturer\n\nI went back to Microcenter and the guy that was there working the 3d printing section did not know what I was talking about.\n\nI went to Microcenter another time and the guy in the filament area said that all of their PLA filament was now PLA+, and that the + meant it was to be used at a higher temperature. The boxes are labeled with 205 - 225°C. It seems that all the inland brand PLA I have is PLA+, save for the first roll I bought. It does not have any kind of temperature markings on it.\n\nFlash forward 1.5+ years from the original question\n\nThis question got some recent attention, so I looked to find the answer again. I found this article, which is a hot pile of !usefulness, giving no data, lots of opinion, and probably some direct insights from someone's marketing department.\n\nThese guys say it's good stuff, but nothing about the chemical or compositional difference between the two. When I find people talking about the difference (like on reddit), those are the details usually mentioned, which are vague, anecdotal, and opinionated, and could be clever marketing (could be, not guaranteed to be). One man's shiny is another man's matte for example.\n\nMonoprice confirmed what I already did by reading the label and printing with it, but does mention TPU, which might be Thermoplastic polyurethane. No quantity or proportion or anything, and since they're the only manufacturer/reseller to officially say this, I consider it unconfirmed. One of the answers below says that PLA+ probably includes TPU or something like it, but that's conjecture or opinion by their own admission. \n\n\n PLA+ is a variation of PLA that has added material in order to make\n the filament less brittle, have a smoother surface finish, and less\n likely to absorb moisture. Typically, TPU is added into the filament\n in order to achieve this property. PLA+ will have the feel and\n functionality of ABS without the smell. If you didn’t know better, you\n would think it was ABS. We suggest printing with PLA+ at 205 to 210\n degrees Celsius and with a bed temperature of 45 degrees Celsius. PLA+\n responds very well to blue painter’s tape and a glue stick to hold\n properly and not peel up when printing.\n\n\nThese people also ask what it is, but they're doing science about it circa 2014 to try to figure it out.\n\nI'm not sure what to think of this manufacturer/seller's description. It sounds like they are implying that PLA has a branding problem, so they added a plus to it for a new formula to fix their branding.\n\n\n PLA Plus is an enhanced version of our PLA that's less brittle and\n more durable. ‘Enhanced’ PLAs have a bad reputation, some are no\n better than PLA, some perform worse in some conditions. We’ve taken a\n different approach: our ‘regular’ PLA is regarded as the strongest\n pure PLA in the industry, it’s hard to improve on the best. But\n sometimes you need something a little more durable. Enter our\n specially formulated PLA Plus. Prints like PLA, but with better\n durability. Its available with their brighter color options!\n\n\nFinal thoughts\n\nI find a lot of articles/posts talking about \"\"eSun PLA+\"\" specifically. I'm starting to think that this might be the OEM and that other companies are selling it with their own branding, but that all PLA+ comes from the same place. I found their product page, and it says this, which mentions nothing about the formula:\n\n\n Characteristics：\n \n \n extracted and purified from corn grain;\n high rigidity, good glossiness and transparency;\n suitable for printing larger models;\n toughness is 2 times more than the PLA on the market;\n no wiredrawing problems, the surface of the printouts will be smoother and more delicate;\n no cracking problem.\n \n\n\",Joel Coehoorn,\"PLA+ is a brand. Where PLA and ABS have specific chemical meanings (more or less... manufacturers already will have different additives or processes), the only real requirement for PLA+ is using some unknown quantity of PLA as a base. \n\nLook at coffee beans as an example: we have Arabica vs Robusta. Arabica is usually considered better, for some definition of \"\"better\"\". (BTW: Starbucks serves cheaper Robusta). The relevant thing here is in many places you only need 10% Arabica content to label and market a coffee as Arabica coffee. The rest of the product could be... well, anything the maker wants to include. \n\nPLA+ is similar. There's no real definitive meaning to it, beyond some measure of original PLA content and the hope you'll believe it's \"\"better\"\", and therefore maybe pay a little more. \n\nThe good news is, usually PLA+ really is better... at least so far. But as more people start viewing it as a real step up from regular PLA, it's likely we'll also start to see some shady business people pass off inferior product at PLA+. It's likely this is already happening.\n\nMoral of the story: read the label carefully. And unlike coffee, which is a food and therefore better regulated, filaments have hardly any rules about labeling; there may not be a label to read at all, so be extra careful what you buy.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4985,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,YetAnotherRandomUser,2.528907649931287,4.553954821020042,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,\"Where is the \"\"slice\"\" button in Cura?\",\"I'm relatively new to Cura, having just installed it a few weeks ago. I have 3.0.3 and I'm running on Windows 7 64 bit. I noticed the auto slicing setting while poking around the settings. Auto slice almost always works. \n\nA couple times now, Cura won't auto slice. I can't seem to find the slice button. How do I manually slice? I found an article on how to disable auto slicing, but it doesn't show how to manually slice.\n\nWhere the button \"\"save to file\"\" is is greyed out and just says \"\"Print with Octoprint\"\".\n\nClosing Cura and re-opening it will fix the issue.\n\",Mick,\"If auto-slicing is disabled, the button in the bottom-right corner of the window toggles between \"\"Prepare\"\" and \"\"Save to File\"\" depending on whether the model needs to be re-sliced or not. While slicing is in progress, it changes to \"\"Cancel\"\".\n\nIf auto-slicing is enabled, the button always reads \"\"Save to File\"\", and is greyed-out when slicing is being performed (it does not change to \"\"Cancel\"\").\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6413,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,YetAnotherRandomUser,2.1782824847157594,3.235319671822568,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,\"Where is the line between \"\"inspiration\"\" and copy and derivative?\",\"Scenario: I'm cruising Thingiverse, and I find the awesomest thing. I NEED THIS IN MY LIFE. I download it, print it, and for whatever reason, it doesn't work quite right. OK, no big deal, I'll just download the source because the maker was so kind, modify it ever so slightly, and I will have the most awesomest thing evar!\n\nSeveral hours later, I realized that I could have designed it from scratch in a software that is way more user friendly, deterministic, simpler, etc.\n\nAnd then I do redesign it. From scratch. Maybe taking a measurement or two from the thing, or something related to the thing. And I refine it, and it turns out better than the original was.\n\nDid I make a new thing? Did I only draw inspiration from the previous thing? Did I make a derivative work? Using Thingiverse's terminology, did I remix it?\n\nI'm looking for some canonical guidelines to refer to for the US. Thingiverse can be an example, but god answers should not be limited to Thingiverse, nor my specific example.\n\nI ran into this issue while trying to print out a case for a Raspberry Pi Zero. I'm not done redesigning it, but I've been wondering how I could share it on Thingiverse, and if any restrictions from the original model's licensing might affect me when I post my thing.\n\",cmm,\"I should start by saying that I am not a lawyer. I have been both the complainant and defendant in patent cases, and have had the role of observing copyright compliance for a performing arts organization. With that in mind, the following is my own opinion and information.\n\n\n\nUltimately, there is no simple answer to your question. It would depend on the case law that applies to 3D printed objects, which is not very clear. You are venturing into Copyright law, which is very different than Patent law.\n\nFor example, if someone had a patent on \"\"A Raspberry PI case with a <describe a novel, special, functional feature>\"\", and you made a case with that feature, you would be in infringement. It wouldn't matter if the case looked like the original, or was completely different. If it included that patented invention, you would be more likely to lose if challenged in court. The one thing about patent court prosecutions is that it is really rare that anyone actually \"\"wins\"\". The cost to put forward a case is very high, and usually someone runs out of money (sometimes even the \"\"good guy\"\") before a decision is reached. \n\nCopyright is much harder and softer at the same time. Copyright can relate to the design feel of an object -- such as rounded vs. square, or using a trash can vs recycle bin icon. Prosecuting a copyright violation of this kind would require that the aggrieved rights holder demonstrate that the design was copied, or at least derived in an unpermitted way, from the original work. This is often more a matter of opinion than law, which is why the lawyers matter, as well as the judge and potential jury.\n\nTechnically, you are not free to do whatever you wish in the privacy of your own home. You are much less like to be detected and then prosecuted, and the penalties would be lower, but you are just as much in violation if you make one for your own use or sell them by the millions.\n\nThe best way to handle it, if you are prepared for possible adverse reaction from the original designer, is to ask them for permission. You can say ask for clearance to use, such as by saying:\n\n\n \n I loved your object <thing> on Thingiverse. I plan to <put in your plans here -- make a few for me and my friends -- sell further varieties online -- whatever>. Although I didn't copy your design, I would like to acknowledge that I saw your design before doing my own. How shall I do that?\n \n\n\nYour next steps will depend on how they respond. Most likely, they will either give you free leave to do as you wish, or they will ask for something.\n\nThis happens a great deal in music, and expensive and acromonious problems have developed over who actually composed a particular guitar riff. You can pick up the \"\"Stairway to Heaven\"\" case here. If you are doing this commercially, it is better to negotiate ahead of time. If you are putting your object back on Thingiverse for sharing, I'd just identify it as derivative an get on with life. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6413,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,YetAnotherRandomUser,2.1782824847157594,3.235319671822568,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,\"Where is the line between \"\"inspiration\"\" and copy and derivative?\",\"Scenario: I'm cruising Thingiverse, and I find the awesomest thing. I NEED THIS IN MY LIFE. I download it, print it, and for whatever reason, it doesn't work quite right. OK, no big deal, I'll just download the source because the maker was so kind, modify it ever so slightly, and I will have the most awesomest thing evar!\n\nSeveral hours later, I realized that I could have designed it from scratch in a software that is way more user friendly, deterministic, simpler, etc.\n\nAnd then I do redesign it. From scratch. Maybe taking a measurement or two from the thing, or something related to the thing. And I refine it, and it turns out better than the original was.\n\nDid I make a new thing? Did I only draw inspiration from the previous thing? Did I make a derivative work? Using Thingiverse's terminology, did I remix it?\n\nI'm looking for some canonical guidelines to refer to for the US. Thingiverse can be an example, but god answers should not be limited to Thingiverse, nor my specific example.\n\nI ran into this issue while trying to print out a case for a Raspberry Pi Zero. I'm not done redesigning it, but I've been wondering how I could share it on Thingiverse, and if any restrictions from the original model's licensing might affect me when I post my thing.\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"When you remix, either by modifying the existing CAD files (STL or sCAD or whatever), or by rebuilding essentially the same item from scratch, that is a remix and subject to whatever restrictions the original author put on his work. \n\nSo the critical issue so far as copyright is concerned is whether the output is a clear copy or remix. No different from taking someone's novel and rewriting it using Notepad++ and LaTeX instead of the original Microsoft World. \n\nNow, when remix or reuse is allowed by the originator, it is still incumbent upon you to provide proper attribution, just as you would provide footnotes and bibliography so as to avoid plagiarism in a research paper. \n\nAll that said, you are free to do whatever you wish in \"\"the privacy of your own home\"\" (IANAL and laws vary by location, but the chance that the copyright holder will track you down because you have a widget in your bedroom are nil). You can't publish or sell, of course w/o permission. \n\",0.0,0.0\n6419,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,YetAnotherRandomUser,2.8153892694839717,4.534272008933222,0.0,3.1880595895805834,4.376800063013361,3.7272071097011072,Where is a reputable place to download Ultimaker Cura?,\"I noticed that my version of Ultimaker Cura was out of date, so I tried to go to their website and download a new version. For whatever reason, I could not get the download link to work properly in Firefox with a slew of security extensions. \n\nWhere are reputable mirrors for Cura?\n\nDownload.Cnet.com and Sourceforge came up as sources, but years ago they both went to the darkside (SourceForge: HowToGeek, thecomputerpeeps). I don't see anything else that looks even remotely reputable in the search results.\n\nI did some analysis, and it appears that the drop down and form don't work correctly if you select \"\"I don't want to share any personal information\"\", leading me to think this is web page bug.\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"Cura is a software tool developed by Ultimaker for 3D printers. There is a downloadable page for this tool: https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software/list. There is no restriction to download it.\n\nI'm using Firefox on all my PC's and it can be downloaded with no problems, even if I'm using Windows XP, the main PC works at full speed with 3D models.\n\",0.0,0.0\n6419,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,YetAnotherRandomUser,2.8153892694839717,4.534272008933222,0.0,3.1880595895805834,4.376800063013361,3.7272071097011072,Where is a reputable place to download Ultimaker Cura?,\"I noticed that my version of Ultimaker Cura was out of date, so I tried to go to their website and download a new version. For whatever reason, I could not get the download link to work properly in Firefox with a slew of security extensions. \n\nWhere are reputable mirrors for Cura?\n\nDownload.Cnet.com and Sourceforge came up as sources, but years ago they both went to the darkside (SourceForge: HowToGeek, thecomputerpeeps). I don't see anything else that looks even remotely reputable in the search results.\n\nI did some analysis, and it appears that the drop down and form don't work correctly if you select \"\"I don't want to share any personal information\"\", leading me to think this is web page bug.\n\",0scar,\"The answer to your question is: \"\"From the application developer itself!\"\".\n\nBelow is the explanation how you can (directly) download Ultimaker Cura from the most reputable source: Ultimaker.com\n\n\n\nRegular download\n\nWhen clicking the link to download of the Cura application download button from the Ultimaker website you are presented with a pop-up GUI that asks you if you want to share where you are using the program for. When you select the required field and press download, the download starts. If this doesn't work, a direct download approach can be used.\n\nDirect download\n\nIf the regular download method fails, or you do not get the pop-up GUI, you can use the direct link for Ultimaker Cura from the developer's website:\n\nhttps://download.ultimaker.com/cura/Ultimaker_Cura-4.1.0-win64.exe\n\nThis link can be found at the download directory at the website:\n\nhttps://download.ultimaker.com/current/\n\nThis web directory overview also shows all previous releases and installers for other platforms.\n\nAs of version 3.6.0, the download does not appear to be in the list, this link will show an overview: https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software/list \nDo note that the latter link will show the pop-up.\n\nAs of version 4.1, the web directory overview link will serve a 404.\n\",3.7511513460834345,2.0769199823829045\n6439,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,YetAnotherRandomUser,3.0576060275493275,4.173387173194016,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,Is hot glue suitable for FDM printing?,\"Is hot glue suitable for FDM printing, or some process similar to it?\n\nI think it has all of the required properties, and could produce a flexible transluscent print. It's cheap, hotends are cheap, and the technology has been around for a while.\n\nI couldn't find any examples or anyone talking about such a material for use, on here or the general Internet. I wonder if there are tradeoffs or challenges that make it not worth pursuing.\n\",Davo,\"Yes, we have Hyrel users who print with Hot Melt Adhesive 3796 from 3M (essentially a high performance hot glue) with our Krakatoa series print heads.\n\n\n\nThese heads don't print with filament; the user fills a metal reservoir with paste, gel, or even powder or granules, loads the reservoir onto the head, loads the head onto the printer, applies heat if necessary (some models up to 250C), and then prints the gcode with positive displacement. The KR2 is like the KRA above, but it is made specifically for higher temperature, higher viscosity materials, with tighter tolerances and multiple gaskets.\n\nI have used this model head to print materials including hot glue, polycaprolactone, porcelain, vasoline, toothpaste, plasticine, and metal clays. \n\nSee https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QD2FrZ4kg1g for an overview of this head.\n\nNote: I sell this equipment, and have used it since 2012.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6439,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,YetAnotherRandomUser,3.0576060275493275,4.173387173194016,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,Is hot glue suitable for FDM printing?,\"Is hot glue suitable for FDM printing, or some process similar to it?\n\nI think it has all of the required properties, and could produce a flexible transluscent print. It's cheap, hotends are cheap, and the technology has been around for a while.\n\nI couldn't find any examples or anyone talking about such a material for use, on here or the general Internet. I wonder if there are tradeoffs or challenges that make it not worth pursuing.\n\",OyaMist,\"You could mount a hot glue gun to a 3D positioning frame, but you would immediately notice the following:\n\n\nHot glue sticks are fat, so you lose a lot of precision for each feed/retract increment. I.e., it's a lot harder to get precise feeds with a fat stick because the stick size is so much larger than the nozzle.\nHot glue sticks are short, so you would to create a filament to spool the stuff or come up with a glue stick feeder.\nHot glue melts at 120 °C and common plastics such as nylon melt at much higher temperatures. So hot glue would make an AWFUL structural part like a stepper mount. Even PLA barely deals with stepper temperatures. Note that temperature tolerance is irrelevant for costume parts.\nHot glue is soft, which makes it a great glue, but not very stiff for, say, making parts for a 3D printer. However, the parts might be fine for use only in costumes, etc.\n\n\nBut, if you then used your 3D glue printer to dispense glue for gluing stuff together, well...that might be valuable. :D\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n3373,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Vandel212,2.1782824847157594,3.3964611062631964,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,How do I enable Expert mode in the Craftware slicer?,\"I'm using craftware, and I'm trying to figure out how to enable expert mode so that I can adjust the extruder/bed temps. I looked all over the application, the user manual, and googled it, but I cannot find the setting to enable it. Any help is appreciated.\n\",Vandel212,\"I figured it out, you must click the slice button, then among those options, there is s button to switch to Expert mode. Hope this helps someone in the future.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4575,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Vandel212,2.8153892694839717,4.427411842334259,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,What could be causing this spotty extrusion?,\"I'm getting this printing where it's not laying the plastic down very well. What could be causing this? I've printed with these settings before, and it turned out just fine. If you need any other info to properly diagnose this, let me know.\n\nI'm using a Robo3D R1+\n\n[\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"I´ve seen this in my Prusa due two parameters that may vary your results depending on climate if your printer has not a temperature chamber or having a mechanical issue too.\n\nLack of extrusion is due a cold filament which it can't reach the melting temperature due a fast extrusion feed; I mean in normal conditions we can print @70 mm/s with 195 °C but on wet or colder days is not possible so I need to slow down the speed (feed rate) with 10 % less than normal to get @60 mm/s or less until get a good flow with out modifying the G-code. If I try to print faster on normal conditions I will get the same lack of material due 195 °C is a low temperature (this is an example).\n\nIf I set the temperature 200 °C or 210 °C I will get a better flow and also print faster than @80 mm/s (not affected too much on climate on 100 % feed rate).\n\nFor first layer I´m using an speed of 40 mm/s to allow a good adhesion and Z height 90 % of layer height (0.22 typically or 0.18).\n\nMechanical side: The extruder is not feeding all the filament due a missing pression on the traction gear (filament slip).\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n4575,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Vandel212,2.8153892694839717,4.427411842334259,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,What could be causing this spotty extrusion?,\"I'm getting this printing where it's not laying the plastic down very well. What could be causing this? I've printed with these settings before, and it turned out just fine. If you need any other info to properly diagnose this, let me know.\n\nI'm using a Robo3D R1+\n\n[\n\",poopym,\"I had this problem also. After a few hours of troubleshooting and changing the extruder temp, printing speed, layer height, and infill density. I realized that I had set the PLA diameter at 2.85 mm when it was 1.75 mm. Changing that fixed all my problems.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7965,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Vandel212,1.726248027126092,3.235319671822568,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Z-axes out of sync with Simplify3D,\"I have a Robo 3D R1+, and I'm using the default Simplify3D profile for it. When I finish a print, I notice that my X gantry is way out of level. The right side is visibly higher than the left side. So much so that it won't even auto-level on the next print. What that tells me is during the print, the Right z-axis is moving up faster than the left. It also ruins the print.\n\nI do not believe this is a hardware issue, as when I use the Craftware slicer, it works properly (I tried the same model with both slicers). Is there a setting or something I need to adjust in Simplify3D to get this to print properly?\n\nIf you would like to see the G-code for the CW and S3D models I was testing with, you can download them here:\n\nG-code download (Google drive)\n\",0scar,\"What you are describing is not possible as a result of changing slicers, this must be an intermittent hardware issue.\n\nThe slicer has no knowledge of the hardware layout of your machine (other than the build volume and gantry dimensions; if properly configured), it just creates slices of the model you present which are found in the G-code file as Z movements. In case multiple Z steppers are used to move the X gantry, these are usually driven by a single driver, but if they are separately controlled, even in the G-code file the instruction would be to move up Z in total, not per stepper. It is the firmware of the 3D printer that translates this Z level in movement for your 3D printer based on the layout of the machine and the firmware settings.\n\nThe CraftWare G-code file does show some inconsistencies with respect to the Simplify3D file in that it does not use G29 and has a too large first layer height of 0.45 mm (this is larger than you nozzle diameter of 0.40 mm, you should always limit that to about 75 % of your nozzle diameter).\n\nFor an X gantry to become unlevel/skew, there must be a mechanical issue that is causing it to miss steps/prevent advancing at one side. It is possible that one of the shafts or lead screws has some more friction than the other (generally it is not a good idea to grease the screws as dirt easily stick to the grease, a light oil may be better suited). This is not uncommon for Prusa i3 clones and is usually fixed by resettling the leadscrew nut by loosening and tightening the screws which attach the nut to the X gantry idler. It is unclear if this is your problem here with this specific machine.\n\nTo be fair, uneven displacement of any axis powered by 2 separate motors (driven by separate drivers) could be induced by the slicer when unrealistic high accelerations and incorrect hardware/electronic settings are employed.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n3375,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kaldo,1.726248027126092,4.427411842334259,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Padded Sketch comprises too many solids (FreeCAD),\"Under FreeCAD, I sketched on the face of a solid as follows :\n\n\n\nMy problem is, when I use \"\"Pad a selected sketch\"\", the solid created comprises also the original solid.\n\n\n\nIt prevents me, for instance, to get the difference with the first one.\n\nAny idea what may be causing this? How to prevent it?\n\nMyFreeCAD config:\n\nOS: Ubuntu 16.04.1 LTS\nWord size of OS: 64-bit\nWord size of FreeCAD: 64-bit\nVersion: 0.15.4671 (Git)\nBranch: releases/FreeCAD-0-15\nHash: 244b3aef360841646cbfe80a1b225c8b39c8380c\nPython version: 2.7.11\nQt version: 4.8.7\nCoin version: 4.0.0a\nOCC version: 6.8.0.oce-0.17\n\n\",Davo,\"If you just select the face, and pad the face (versus padding the solid), you should not have this problem. \n\",0.0,0.0\n3375,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kaldo,1.726248027126092,4.427411842334259,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Padded Sketch comprises too many solids (FreeCAD),\"Under FreeCAD, I sketched on the face of a solid as follows :\n\n\n\nMy problem is, when I use \"\"Pad a selected sketch\"\", the solid created comprises also the original solid.\n\n\n\nIt prevents me, for instance, to get the difference with the first one.\n\nAny idea what may be causing this? How to prevent it?\n\nMyFreeCAD config:\n\nOS: Ubuntu 16.04.1 LTS\nWord size of OS: 64-bit\nWord size of FreeCAD: 64-bit\nVersion: 0.15.4671 (Git)\nBranch: releases/FreeCAD-0-15\nHash: 244b3aef360841646cbfe80a1b225c8b39c8380c\nPython version: 2.7.11\nQt version: 4.8.7\nCoin version: 4.0.0a\nOCC version: 6.8.0.oce-0.17\n\n\",kaldo,\"Ok, I got help on this forum thread\n\nUsing Part Extrude instead of Pad a selected sketch on the sketch will create an independent solid.\n\nIt also turns out that, instead of creating the second solid to do a boolean difference, the good way to \"\"cut\"\" my solid is using the PartDesign Pocket tool.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n3382,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hertfordkc,2.528907649931287,3.601668775190381,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.6229190288168605,\"How to print a 6\"\" wheel in ABS?\",\"I'm using a Flashforge Pro and attempting to print a wheel about 6mm thick to serve as a platform. In other words, the wheel doesn't have to be solid, but spokes won't do the job. I've experimented with different temperatures, but, because of ABS' thermal expansion, I don't think that will solve the problem. Also tried putting lots of 2mm holes in the wheel. I've considered other designs for the interior, but doubt that would be a solution. Has anyone tried using different print paths, i.e. actually altering the path that the slicer suggests? (grasping at straws)\nThanks for your suggestions.\n\",EvilTeach,\"If you can, set your slicer to do honeycomb fill. Depending on the weight requirement choose maybe 10% - 20% fill. That ought to do the trick. It won't be solid, but it should be strong enough.\n\nWhat are you going to put on the platform?\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3382,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hertfordkc,2.528907649931287,3.601668775190381,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.6229190288168605,\"How to print a 6\"\" wheel in ABS?\",\"I'm using a Flashforge Pro and attempting to print a wheel about 6mm thick to serve as a platform. In other words, the wheel doesn't have to be solid, but spokes won't do the job. I've experimented with different temperatures, but, because of ABS' thermal expansion, I don't think that will solve the problem. Also tried putting lots of 2mm holes in the wheel. I've considered other designs for the interior, but doubt that would be a solution. Has anyone tried using different print paths, i.e. actually altering the path that the slicer suggests? (grasping at straws)\nThanks for your suggestions.\n\",Randy Steck,\"I had pretty much this exact situation when printing a disk for a rocket avionics bay. It seemed to come down to getting the basics of bed adhesion: Heat bed, ABS temp, bed composition, and a \"\"primer\"\" layer. I found the FF Creator Pro to work well with a bed at 110, filament at 230, printing on a glass plate with ABS slurry. Then adding the brim 6 orbits wide held it down very well. I found that printing on the stock FF blue plastic was inconsistent with adhesion. Also, keep the door closed while printing and for something this size don't run the cooling fan (if you're printing on the left nozzle).\n\nAnd, of course, the right infill helps with the thermal contraction and strength. I found through testing that the rectilinear patter in S3D gave the best structural support in multiple dimensions. I also end up typically printing infill at about 15% to ensure a good surface on the upper face. Any lower and I found a lot of sagging in the top finish.\n\nIf you're using this as a platform, then the layer size matters a lot also. You don't need .10mm layers, as .25mm or .20mm layers would probably work better. Then make sure you print enough top layers to get a good finish. At .20mm I usually print 4 top layers with a 15% infill.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n3388,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Xios,2.1782824847157594,3.469045931690484,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.548335113978322,3.9829738809469584,How are things designed like a USB casing designed,\"How are professional or regular products designed on the computer for manufacturing?\n\nDo they do it by making a 3D model and then getting it made by manufacturers/plastic factories, or the process is different?\n\nIf it's by making 3D models then what kind of programs do they use - Regular 3D software like blender?\n\nI also understand that you can get a 3D model printed by 3d printing services, but are they the same as mass manufacturing companies, by that they make the product by 3D models.\n\",tbm0115,\"3D printing provides a faster method for prototyping and have always been labeled as prototyping machines. Until recently, it has been rare to see 3D printers used for \"\"mass manufacturing\"\".\n\nYes, most mass-produced products start the manufacturing process with a 3D model. 3D models can be created in many different applications such as Solidworks, AutoCAD, Unigraphics, Blender, even Sketchup just to name a few.\n\nIn product development, the 3D model will then go through prototyping. Rapid prototyping can be done using a 3D printer by utilizing cheap materials and almost no labor cost. \n\nHere are a few costs that can be associated with the different prototyping methods.\n\nTraditional Prototyping\n\n(Typically involving \"\"traditional\"\", subtractive manufacturing methods such as CNC mills, lathes, routers, etc.)\n\n\nCAM programming\nFixturing\nCNC Machine Setup\nCNC Operating/Labor\n\n\nRapid Prototyping\n\n(Typically involving a 3D printer or other additive manufacturing methods)\n\n\nModel preparation (for slicing)\nPrinting Operation\nObject post-processing\n\n\nRemoval of supports\nCuring/Cleaning of part (for non-FDM/FFF printing methods)\n\n\n\nOnce a prototype is produced, the designer will adjust the 3D model accordingly based on results of the prototype. This process will be repeated until the prototype is adequate for the purpose of the end product.\n\nWhen the product design is ready for mass production, it will go through traditional manufacturing methods such as: \n\n\nCNC Machining (subtractive)\n\n\nMill\nLathe\nRouter\nLaser\netc.\n\nInjection Molding\netc.\n\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n3392,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user379468,2.8153892694839717,3.9811022261621547,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How can I print gears using very high resolution material like nylon,\"I'm trying to gear down a servo even further. I notice that the majority of the gears are made of nylon, and I want to create new gears that come close to the resolution and strength of the existing gears. I have a Replicator 2, but the resolution does not seem to come close to what I need. Any suggestions on how I can create nylon or other hard material parts that might work?\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"If changing the nozzle to a smaller diameter is a viable alternative for your printer, then that may give a major increase in your X-Y-resolution.\n\nYou can think of it like drawing with a pencil vs. a thick crayon: a fine tip allows for fine details.\n\nPersonally I have done some printing with a 0.25mm nozzle, which was a bit of a challenge to find good slicer settings for, but otherwise went very well, giving much better resolution than my 0.4mm nozzle (nearly twice a good to be exact). \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3392,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user379468,2.8153892694839717,3.9811022261621547,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How can I print gears using very high resolution material like nylon,\"I'm trying to gear down a servo even further. I notice that the majority of the gears are made of nylon, and I want to create new gears that come close to the resolution and strength of the existing gears. I have a Replicator 2, but the resolution does not seem to come close to what I need. Any suggestions on how I can create nylon or other hard material parts that might work?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Proceeding with the expectation that you mean nylon rather than vinyl, there are a few options open for you. What resolution are you seeking? Layer thickness of 0.100 mm is quite good, allowing for ten layers per mm of part thickness, with infill adjusted as required.\n\nIf you've already determined that your printer will not print at the resolution required for your gear design, you would perhaps purchase a higher resolution printer. Of course, that may be an expense you would like to avoid.\n\nIf your parts count is small, you could consider to print samples of the parts to confirm fit, but not worry about strength and then use an online service to have them printed via SLS method.\n\nSelective Laser Sintering places nylon powder on the work surface, then selectively melts the powder into a solid. Each layer when completed is covered with another layer of powder and fused to the previous portion (or not) until the part is complete. \n\nBecause the un-fused powder provides support, there is no requirement for the model to have supplemental support structures. There is a requirement/objective that the part have \"\"drain holes\"\" in areas which might otherwise be solid. Any surface that entraps powder is charged to the purchaser as if the space within is included in the part.\n\nAn example would be a cube that can be printed as six square faces only. The cube wall thickness can be specified and if a drain hole is incorporated, the cost would be the volume of the walls only. No drain hole would mean the cube would be charged for the entire volume.\n\nFor gears, which are typically low profile/flat items, that's a minor consideration.\n\nThe same concept applies to SLA printing, which uses a laser in a vat of resin. If the model is a solid with no drain holes, the interior will retain the resin. It is possible that the interior can be cured with strong UV light and/or sunlight, but opaque resins would not accept this work-around, nor would it reduce the cost involved. Also note that SLA printed items would lack the necessary strength.\n\nIf farming out your parts is the direction you intend to travel, ensure the dimension stability reference in the vendor you use. Nylon sintered parts will shrink a known amount during the fusing process. The vendor should provide the appropriate reference, or the vendor should confirm that he adjusts the model appropriately for shrinkage.\n\nI have one very tiny part constructed from SLS nylon and it's amazingly strong for such a thin wall. Nylon wears well too.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3398,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Evan,2.528907649931287,4.810552073015903,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Extruder skipping/clicking (brand new printer),\"I just got a GeeeTech Rostock 301 mixer head delta printer and am having trouble honing in on why the extruder is struggling with my first spool of ABS.\n\nBeing the main parts of the printer came assembled I am unsure of where to start taking things apart. I have a read a multitude of possible causes and am hoping for some direction on which is most likely so I can start there.\n\nSymptoms:\n\nExtruder clicking. The extruder makes a low grinding noise every time it tries to extrude more than 1mm of filament using the manual controls. Again I am working with ABS so I have the hotend heated to 250 degrees C. The extruder had no trouble when I was first putting the filament in and using the extruder to push it thorough the Bowden tube.\n\nBut when I tried using the manual controls to extrude a small amount of filament it seems to be fine, just a small time delay between the extruder moving and the plastic coming out of the hotend. \n\nThings I have read to try\n\nAgain this a kit printer and the involved components came assembled (see below) so I am not sure what I should look at first. I assume that if it came pre-assembled then it is most likely done correctly.\n\n\nClean out the hotend, do a cold pull\nTake apart the extruder and realign the driving cog, check for shaft slippage\nReplace your Bowden Tubes\nTweak slicer settings\n\n\nFor the first 3 I think its new so it should be clean, in working order. And for number 4 I put what was in the manual except for the temperatures (because the settings shown in the manual were for PLA but it is a PLA or ABS printer)\n\nAssembly:\n\nThe printer being a kit came with the print head completely assembled as shown in the picture. \n\nNot shown in the picture it also had the Bowden tubes in place. It also came with the extruder assembled as shown in the picture. \n\nSo aside from wiring and mounting these pieces the only thing I did was cut a clean edge on the Bowden tube and connect that to the extruder.\n\",Odysx2,\"First you have to see if nothing jams the filament (blocked nozzle or anything in its path, PTFE tube not good, etc).\n\nSecond, the temp for ABS is about 225°C to 230°C. At least that worked for me.\n\nIf none of the above, then go for the motor. The problem could be from bad settings, low power or a motor malfunction. Maybe the motor is no good to begin with. \n\nGood luck !!! \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3398,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Evan,2.528907649931287,4.810552073015903,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Extruder skipping/clicking (brand new printer),\"I just got a GeeeTech Rostock 301 mixer head delta printer and am having trouble honing in on why the extruder is struggling with my first spool of ABS.\n\nBeing the main parts of the printer came assembled I am unsure of where to start taking things apart. I have a read a multitude of possible causes and am hoping for some direction on which is most likely so I can start there.\n\nSymptoms:\n\nExtruder clicking. The extruder makes a low grinding noise every time it tries to extrude more than 1mm of filament using the manual controls. Again I am working with ABS so I have the hotend heated to 250 degrees C. The extruder had no trouble when I was first putting the filament in and using the extruder to push it thorough the Bowden tube.\n\nBut when I tried using the manual controls to extrude a small amount of filament it seems to be fine, just a small time delay between the extruder moving and the plastic coming out of the hotend. \n\nThings I have read to try\n\nAgain this a kit printer and the involved components came assembled (see below) so I am not sure what I should look at first. I assume that if it came pre-assembled then it is most likely done correctly.\n\n\nClean out the hotend, do a cold pull\nTake apart the extruder and realign the driving cog, check for shaft slippage\nReplace your Bowden Tubes\nTweak slicer settings\n\n\nFor the first 3 I think its new so it should be clean, in working order. And for number 4 I put what was in the manual except for the temperatures (because the settings shown in the manual were for PLA but it is a PLA or ABS printer)\n\nAssembly:\n\nThe printer being a kit came with the print head completely assembled as shown in the picture. \n\nNot shown in the picture it also had the Bowden tubes in place. It also came with the extruder assembled as shown in the picture. \n\nSo aside from wiring and mounting these pieces the only thing I did was cut a clean edge on the Bowden tube and connect that to the extruder.\n\",Rob D. A.,\"I've had the same problem, nozzle was just too close to the bed and motor required a little bit mode power so I turned a little bit a pot on stepper controller.\nSince then no problem, also is good to rise a bit a temperature ;)\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3402,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,verpfeilt,2.8153892694839717,3.622620754869475,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.531698478710706,\"New thermistor isolation, how?\",\"We are trying to repair an Ultimaker Original+. One problem is a missing resistor isolation. The Ultimaker Original+ prints with up to 260 Degree Celcius.\n\nWhich kind of isolation products are suitable to resist the heat and are fitting on the thin wires of the thermistor?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The most common choice for insulating thermistors is glass fiber sleeving. It tolerates very high temperatures, and is commonly rated for up to 600 °C.\n\nTeflon is also used but has a rather low upper limit on its working temperature; it shouldn't be used at temperatures exceeding 260 °C - which rules it out for your purpose.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n3402,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,verpfeilt,2.8153892694839717,3.622620754869475,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.531698478710706,\"New thermistor isolation, how?\",\"We are trying to repair an Ultimaker Original+. One problem is a missing resistor isolation. The Ultimaker Original+ prints with up to 260 Degree Celcius.\n\nWhich kind of isolation products are suitable to resist the heat and are fitting on the thin wires of the thermistor?\n\",Tyscof,\"I used Kapton tape to insulate mine. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3417,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mehmet Aydın,2.528907649931287,4.400357810556553,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,How drastic is reversing the polarity of the power supply to a RAMPS board?,\"If I accidentally reverse the polarity of my power supply to the RAMPS board, what exactly will be damaged?\n\nWill it harm my:\n\n\nRAMPS;\nArduino Mega;\nStepper motor and/or drivers, or; \nAny other electronic part(s)?\n\n\nWill all or some of them be permanently damaged?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Assuming the (most common and standard) RAMPS 1.4 board, the power input section looks like this:\n\n\n\nThere are two 12V input sections: one for the heated bed (with an 11A fuse) and one for the rest (with a 5A fuse). If only one of the sections has reversed polarity (and the other one is connected correctly) the power supply (assuming a single supply is used) is shorted out directly through the board (without any fuses or any other protection). This will in principle not damage any components on the board, but it might damage the power supply or melt the wires. In the following, I assume both sections have polarity reversed consistently (or one of the sections is not connected at all).\n\nThe bed input section basically has no protection. If polarity to the bed is reversed, the bed MOSFET's body diode will conduct - basically shorting out the input through the fuse. The current that will flow will initially only be limited by the power supply's ability to supply current. Eventually the fuse will trip, but these poly fuses are quite slow and in the meantime it is possible the bed MOSFET will be damaged (which might cause it to permanently conduct, i.e. the bed might always be on, or the MOSFET might become a short circuit and short out the power supply even if the polarity is corrected).\n\nThe 5A section has a bit more in terms of protection. After the fuse there is a diode (D2) that shorts out the power supply if polarity is reversed. This is similar to how the diode in the bed MOSFET shorts out, but in this case the diode is dedicated for just this function. The diode has a relatively low forward voltage, lower than that of the MOSFETs for the heaters, so in principle these components will be protected. However, the diode is not really rated for the kind of current that would flow in this scenario, so components such as the heater/fan MOSFETs and stepper drivers might be exposed to a reverse voltage (albeit around -2V at most). They would probably survive.\n\nAs in the heated bed scenario, the diode D2 would probably be damaged - it would likely end up short circuited and thus needs to be replaced (or at least removed, but this is not advisable since it's required for polarity protection) before the board will function again.\n\nThe Arduino Mega 12V input is protected through a blocking diode (D1) which will fully protect it. This diode will not be damaged, because it won't conduct any current in a short-circuit scenario.\n\nIt might seem kind of strange a diode is used to deliberately short out the input in case of reverse polarity, and you might ask why the design doesn't simply use a diode to block the reverse flow of current (like is done for the Arduino). The reason for this is that all diodes have an associated voltage drop, which would cause a lot of power loss (especially for the heated bed), requiring a large diode with heat sink. The way the diodes are placed (i.e., shorting out the power rails in the event of reverse polarity) avoids this loss and still somewhat protects the electronics down the stream (even if the fuses/diodes are blown). Note that this is still a less than ideal solution, if you're trying to design your own reverse polarity protection solution then I would recommend to go with a MOSFET-based solution.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3417,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mehmet Aydın,2.528907649931287,4.400357810556553,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,How drastic is reversing the polarity of the power supply to a RAMPS board?,\"If I accidentally reverse the polarity of my power supply to the RAMPS board, what exactly will be damaged?\n\nWill it harm my:\n\n\nRAMPS;\nArduino Mega;\nStepper motor and/or drivers, or; \nAny other electronic part(s)?\n\n\nWill all or some of them be permanently damaged?\n\",Greenonline,\"Polyfuses on the RAMPS\n\nFire appears to be the immediate issue, in the poly fuses.\n\nFrom Reddit: reversed polarity, RAMPS on fire\n\n\n Sooo I made the dumb mistake of reversing the polarity from my psu into the RAMPS 1.4. As warned the ramps did not like this and smoke began to rise from the board. I am pretty sure I saw smoke only coming from the two ptc fuses (big flat yellow ones).\n\n\nReplacing poly fuses\n\nNote: Older RAMPS 1.4 have easily replaceable large poly fuses, whereas the RAMPS 1.5/1.6 use SMD poly fuses, see 0scar's answer to RAMPS 1.4, 1.5 or 1.6?\n\n\n\nArduino\n\nAccording to this user, the MOSFETs and the Arduino Mega's regulator can be fried as well:\n\n\n it most likely fried the mosfets next to the fuses and probably the voltage regulator on your arduino.\n\n\nHowever, the fried regulator would only affect the Arduino's operation if powered through the power socket, or VIN (which the RAMPS board uses to power the Arduino Mega). However, via the USB it should still work. See this post, on the same thread:\n\n\n The voltage regulator is only needed if you supply power to the arduino via the Vin pin or with a separate power adapter. The RAMPS board does supply the Vin pin with 12V.\n\n\nSo, you would probably have to rely on powering the Arduino via the USB and not the RAMPS\n\nRegarding the Arduino, on Arduino.SE there are a number of users who have fried their Arduino in this manner, and many of them suffer slightly different failures, although most are centered around the regulator. One case I remember was that of a capacitor burnout, see Is my Arduino dead? - although the use case was different. There are many other cases on the Arduino.SE. \n\n\n\nProtection Diode\n\nAccording to this post on RepRap - Reverse Polarity, there should be a reverse polarity protection diode (although it appears not to have work in the above example):\n\n\n If it was a ramps, those have a reverse protection diode across the input that normally needs replaced after such an incident \n\n\n\n\nStepper drivers/motors\n\nThe stepper motors themselves should survive, as should the stepper drivers. \n\nHowever, each case can be different and it would depend upon the quality of the board (is it a cheap clone or branded?), and the quality/tolerance of the components used - these factors would determine where in the chain of modules the failure occurs. Obviously, the earlier the failure's location in the chain the better.\n\n\n\nMKS Base v1.2\n\nAs an aside, this user fried their regulator (the fuses were fine) on a MKS Base v1.2 (not RAMPS), by reversing the polarity, which caused the stepper drivers to fail. However, replacing the regulator fixed it, see this post:\n\n\n Replacing the regulator chip did fix the board.\n\n\nRather helpfully the self same user has posted an Instructables of the repair: MKS Base reverse polarity repair.\n\n\n\nRAMPSXB\n\nThere is no protection diode on the RAMPXB. From RAMPSXB:\n\n\n Do NOT reverse polarity on the input pins, as there is NO PROTECTION DIODE. Reversing polarity will not only fry your steppers and FETs, but may even damage your Arduino and possibly even your computer. Triple check to make sure the polarity on your power input is 100% correct!\n\n\n\n\nSee also\n\n\nArduino Forum: Checking the RAMPS 1.4 for some handy troubleshooting tips for the Arduino and the Stepper.\n\n\nThis user on post #5 of Arduino Forum: Checking the RAMPS 1.4 did manage to fry their stepper drivers, but not due to reverse polarity, by from a loose wire:\n\n\n I didnt connect the power backwards, but either I had a defective Mega2560 clone, or some stray bit of wire somehow shorted something out, and the Mega2560 literally went up in smoke (almost caught on fire !)\n \n Every stepper driver was destroyed, but the power FET's and other components survived\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6443,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mehmet Aydın,2.8153892694839717,4.7820837891290955,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Extruder Clicking without Extrusion Problems,\"I own a DIY Hypercube Evolution equipped with Tevo Titan extruder, Clone Chimera hotend and Capricorn's High-temp PTFE tube. I use RAMPS with Mega and A4988's.\n\nDuring prints, my extruder motor randomly clicks. I touched the filament and during the clicks I'ven't felt any problems with extrusion. I looked at the motor shaft to control if it clicks at special angles or randomly, but it clicks randomly. My prints do look very good: clear and shiny.\n\nDo you have any suggestions? (the sound really gives me headache)\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Even though you may have acceptable extrusion, any clicking from that area of your printer is likely to be a missed step on the extruder motor. This may be insignificant with respect to print quality, but as you suggest, it is an irritation.\n\nIf you are confident that your nozzle is clean of debris (which is likely), you could consider to raise the nozzle temperature a few degrees. If the nozzle is not applying enough heat to the filament, it may resist being forced through and a click representing a delay, allows that much more heat to be applied.\n\nYou should not have to increase by much, certainly no more than five degrees. It's also possible that you can slow the feed rate a bit to accomplish a similar result.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6443,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mehmet Aydın,2.8153892694839717,4.7820837891290955,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Extruder Clicking without Extrusion Problems,\"I own a DIY Hypercube Evolution equipped with Tevo Titan extruder, Clone Chimera hotend and Capricorn's High-temp PTFE tube. I use RAMPS with Mega and A4988's.\n\nDuring prints, my extruder motor randomly clicks. I touched the filament and during the clicks I'ven't felt any problems with extrusion. I looked at the motor shaft to control if it clicks at special angles or randomly, but it clicks randomly. My prints do look very good: clear and shiny.\n\nDo you have any suggestions? (the sound really gives me headache)\n\",0scar,\"If an extra few degrees of heating the hot end does not work, you could try to increase the amount of Ampere through the steppers. Increasing the current will increase the torque of the stepper.\n\nThe question is what your current Vref of your extruder stepper driver is. To get a maximum current of 1 Ampere you require a Vref of 0.4 V if you have genuine Polulu A4988 stepper drivers with a 0.05 Ω (Rs). Chinese drivers often have a different sensing resistor (Rs = 0.1 Ω). With formula:\n\nVref = I_TripMax * 8 * Rs\n\nYou can then calculate the Vref to be 1 * 8 * 0.1 = 0.8 V.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3419,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Randy Steck,3.452496054252184,4.560100654736434,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,0.7766301205685938,Bad PEI plate adhesion to heated bed,\"I'm (surprisingly) having a problem getting my PEI substrate to stick to the heated bed surface. The ABS item being printed stuck great to the PEI surface. I've not seen anyone else post on this problem, but perhaps someone has seen it.\n\nNote, this is the PRINT SURFACE warping, not the item being printed. That part went great with no delamination even on a large flat bottom.\n\nI'm using 3M 468 adhesive to attach a PEI plastic sheet directly to the heated surface of my Flashforge Creator Pro printer. The heated bed is anodized black and the adhesive is a sheet cut to the requisite 6\"\" X 9\"\". It seemed fine and looked pretty good with few air bubbles when first attached, but the first print caused the edges of the PEI plastic to warp up from the corners of the bed. \n\nIt appears that the weak link is that the PEI detached from the adhesive. While this was not uniform, removal of the PEI sheet showed that 95% of the adhesive was still attached to the print bed.\n\nThe PEI has one glossy side and one matte side, and I chose to apply the adhesive to the matte side to get the glossy surface. Does this make a difference?\n\nI applied the adhesive to the PEI surface just as it was after removing the protective plastic coating. I figured this was a clean as it was ever going to get.\n\nI'd definitely appreciate some ideas on this.\n\",Odysx2,\"I never used one, but the thing that makes two parts stick together is the atmospheric pressure. The glue is just a thing that, even if it does not make any chemical bond, is keeping the air out. A pure example of that is if you put water in a glass and then put another one on it. Although the water is not glue you can't easily pull it up and if the surface is big you can't at all. It is the atmospheric pressure that keeps them together and the water keeps the air out ;). I suggest try the other side and see I'm just guessing . Good luck!!!\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3419,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Randy Steck,3.452496054252184,4.560100654736434,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,0.7766301205685938,Bad PEI plate adhesion to heated bed,\"I'm (surprisingly) having a problem getting my PEI substrate to stick to the heated bed surface. The ABS item being printed stuck great to the PEI surface. I've not seen anyone else post on this problem, but perhaps someone has seen it.\n\nNote, this is the PRINT SURFACE warping, not the item being printed. That part went great with no delamination even on a large flat bottom.\n\nI'm using 3M 468 adhesive to attach a PEI plastic sheet directly to the heated surface of my Flashforge Creator Pro printer. The heated bed is anodized black and the adhesive is a sheet cut to the requisite 6\"\" X 9\"\". It seemed fine and looked pretty good with few air bubbles when first attached, but the first print caused the edges of the PEI plastic to warp up from the corners of the bed. \n\nIt appears that the weak link is that the PEI detached from the adhesive. While this was not uniform, removal of the PEI sheet showed that 95% of the adhesive was still attached to the print bed.\n\nThe PEI has one glossy side and one matte side, and I chose to apply the adhesive to the matte side to get the glossy surface. Does this make a difference?\n\nI applied the adhesive to the PEI surface just as it was after removing the protective plastic coating. I figured this was a clean as it was ever going to get.\n\nI'd definitely appreciate some ideas on this.\n\",Jason Clark,\"Perhaps this is due to the aluminum build plate warping/crowning as it heats? I use a PEI print surface on my Monoprice Maker Select (Wanhao Di3), which has an 8.5\"\"x8.5\"\" build plate, and I've had no issues with the PEI coming unstuck. However, instead of attaching mine directly to the aluminum heated build plate, I attached it (using 3M 468) to a piece of Borosilicate glass, which is then attached to my aluminum build plate using silicone thermal heatsink pads. The rational for using a Borosilicate glass print surface is that a heated metal build surface is going to warp or move some, as the heat is coming from one side; the glass will not warp and so you have a completely flat surface on which to print (and the heatsink pads help make up the difference in surface geometry). I used this 3dprinterwiki article as the basis for my glass bed mod, and applied the PEI/adhesive using another source (which I've forgotten, possibly the RepRap wiki). While the first link is Wanhao Di3 specific, it covers the idea. Make sure you tweak your z-endstops if needed on your particular machine, as adding the glass plat raises the bed height by several mm.\n\nPlease note that I'm theorizing - I did not ever try applying my PEI directly to my aluminum build plate, so I have no direct comparison. But the use of glass to eliminate build plate warping/crowning is fairly well documented. See also this 3DPSE Answer.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3428,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sigismund,3.0576060275493275,3.8082347013731885,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,What are some conductive filaments that can be used in printing electronics?,\"I'm very new to 3D printing, and I am very interested in printing electronics. I want to be able to print out circuits, so I've been trying to find a conductive filament. What sorts of conductive filaments are available to the consumer (me) and are of acceptable quality\n\nEdited for clarity: I am not seeking a product recommendation, but rather am looking to know what sort of variety I can expect and more specifically which filaments are useful for printing electronics. \n\",StarWind0,\"At this point conductive filaments are a very new thing. All the filiments on the market are PLA based that have been infused with Carbon or Graphine\n\nHowever I worry you over estimate what you can do with this. You will at most be able to 3d print a simple wire and power a LED. You will not be able to run a microcontroller, and honestly I would expect a complicated print to have too much or too little resistance, maybe burst into flames.\n\n\n\nYou really should look into the Voxle 8 and other printers. The printer is really the driving factor. Using a conductive filament will not be enough. Note this printer uses a syringe not PLA plastic.\n\nHere is a Voxle8 print.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3443,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jens Ehrich,3.0576060275493275,3.6626933444091816,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,How can I make this rounded enclosure feasible to print?,\"TL;DR - What needs to be done to the following model to ensure a successful print?\n\nAs part of a father-son project we're trying to make an enclosure for a digital clock. The idea is to make a 3D printed model of a rocket with a hollow body to hold the electronics. The main body consists of two halves that will press-fit together with some integrated mounting locations for the display, micro-controller, etc.\n\nSince this is our first 3D printing project, I would like to know what can be done to the following model to help ensure a successful first print. We have not chosen a material or supplier yet, but I suspect we'll go with PLA since it seems to be quite common, inexpensive, available in lots of colours, etc.\n\n\n\nThe model is not yet complete - there are several details missing, like additional mounting locations - but I was hoping to make corrections to what we already have before too much further, just in case it requires a complete restart.\n\nHere are some possibly relevant details and goals:\n\n\nThe shell thickness is currently 2.5 mm.\nWe would like the shell to be translucent to allow a glowing effect from some internal LEDs.\nThe nose cone and thruster (not shown) will probably have pins that press-fit into the top and bottom of both halves of the shell to hold them together.\nThere is a 0.5 mm clearance between the lip on the front shell and the detent on the rear shell.\nThe rectangular window will possibly be removed, or made into a flip-open door.\n\n\nThere aren't a lot of hard requirements as this is just a learning project, so we're willing to change almost anything about the design, as long as we can fit in the existing clock parts.\n\nThe Fusion 360 model is available to view online if it helps: Rocket Concept 3\n\",Curious Aardvark,\"With a couple of minor adjustments, that would print just fine standing up as it is. \n\nAlternatively you could lay it down with the open side facing upwards and use a few supports (my least favourite method), or simply make a flat spot on the back to lay on the printer bed. Which is probably what I would do. \n\nAs far as shell thickness goes - 2.5 mm is pretty heavy duty. You also need to bear in mind that it's best to have a thickness as a factor of the thickness of your bead or your layer height (depends on printing orientation) - assuming you are going to print this yourself. So usually that would either be divisible by the bead width or by the layer height. If you want translucent - easy enough use translucent or clear filament. I'd probably go for 1.2 mm or 1.6 mm wall thickness. \n\nI made an angel at Christmas with clear PLA and quite a thick wall (wasn't my model and I didn't bother measuring - but at least 2 mm) and an LED candle lit it up really well. \n\nIt's much easier doing this kind of thing after buying the printer. that way you learn much quicker what works and what doesn't. \n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n3461,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mbmcavoy,3.0576060275493275,4.4534369508584755,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Why does my domed print have a thin shell?,\"I am making a \"\"fun button\"\", with a dome-shaped top. The vertical sides, top center, and raised lettering seem fine, but the more sloped outer parts of the dome are very thin, with some gaps and the infill pattern is quite visible. It's almost like the slicer isn't recognizing the sloped part as an exterior shell. \n\nWhat is causing this, and how can I fix it?\n\n\n\nThe model was made in Fusion 360, sliced in Repetier with Slic3r, and printed on a Monoprice Maker Select Mini.\n\nEdit: More information after checking values used and taking more photos.\n\nThis was my second attempt, after increasing the shell count already.\n\nOn my first print, I clearly had a low value for horizontal shells, top and bottom were both at the default of 3. I upped these both to 8. (Layer height is 0.13125.) The bottom of the button is now good. The \"\"good\"\" center area extends a little further out, so I think it's probably thicker up at the top of the dome. But the sloped sides are pretty much the same - this is why I'm thinking it's not being considered as a \"\"horizontal shell\"\".\n\nComparison:\n\n\n\n\n\nThere are some design iterations, but the top surface is the same shape.\n\nUpdate:\n\nI did a print using Cura, with 0.8 mm shells, and it looks great!\n\n\n\nI cut the two bad prints with a hacksaw to see a cross-section. The bottom is clearly thicker. The top on the outer infill void is pretty much the same. The top on the other void is thicker most of the way across, but suddenly changes to thin.\n\n\n\",StarWind0,\"You can either increase the shells, or you can increase the infill density. In addition different fill patterns will help. I would do 4 minimum for such a print.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3461,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mbmcavoy,3.0576060275493275,4.4534369508584755,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Why does my domed print have a thin shell?,\"I am making a \"\"fun button\"\", with a dome-shaped top. The vertical sides, top center, and raised lettering seem fine, but the more sloped outer parts of the dome are very thin, with some gaps and the infill pattern is quite visible. It's almost like the slicer isn't recognizing the sloped part as an exterior shell. \n\nWhat is causing this, and how can I fix it?\n\n\n\nThe model was made in Fusion 360, sliced in Repetier with Slic3r, and printed on a Monoprice Maker Select Mini.\n\nEdit: More information after checking values used and taking more photos.\n\nThis was my second attempt, after increasing the shell count already.\n\nOn my first print, I clearly had a low value for horizontal shells, top and bottom were both at the default of 3. I upped these both to 8. (Layer height is 0.13125.) The bottom of the button is now good. The \"\"good\"\" center area extends a little further out, so I think it's probably thicker up at the top of the dome. But the sloped sides are pretty much the same - this is why I'm thinking it's not being considered as a \"\"horizontal shell\"\".\n\nComparison:\n\n\n\n\n\nThere are some design iterations, but the top surface is the same shape.\n\nUpdate:\n\nI did a print using Cura, with 0.8 mm shells, and it looks great!\n\n\n\nI cut the two bad prints with a hacksaw to see a cross-section. The bottom is clearly thicker. The top on the outer infill void is pretty much the same. The top on the other void is thicker most of the way across, but suddenly changes to thin.\n\n\n\",Davo,\"Slice with more solid top layers. I always use five with low-density infill.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3470,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,brandstaetter,1.726248027126092,5.114791949471795,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.551027839747059,I can not really connect successfully to my printer via USB,\"I have a Tronxy P802M (very similar to the Anet A8, but using a Melzi2.0V5 board) that seems to work fine (I just finished building, and axes movement and the integrated display work) but when I try to connect to the printer from my Simplify3D on Windows 10, I get the following:\n\n[...]\n Connected to machine!\nSENT: T0\nREAD: ok 0\nREAD: wait\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok 0\nREAD: T:24.44 /0 B:23.33 /0 B@:0 @:0\n Connection failed.\n\n\nMy other printers all connect fine.\n\",brandstaetter,\"The Simplify3D support site mentions to disable the \"\"wait for startup command\"\" option in the firmware configuration for S3D.\n\nThis allows me to make a rudimentary connection to control the printer, however e.g. during the bed levelling wizard of S3D, the connection still breaks off.\n\nIt works reliably with Octoprint. I'll consider that good enough.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n3470,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,brandstaetter,1.726248027126092,5.114791949471795,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.551027839747059,I can not really connect successfully to my printer via USB,\"I have a Tronxy P802M (very similar to the Anet A8, but using a Melzi2.0V5 board) that seems to work fine (I just finished building, and axes movement and the integrated display work) but when I try to connect to the printer from my Simplify3D on Windows 10, I get the following:\n\n[...]\n Connected to machine!\nSENT: T0\nREAD: ok 0\nREAD: wait\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok 0\nREAD: T:24.44 /0 B:23.33 /0 B@:0 @:0\n Connection failed.\n\n\nMy other printers all connect fine.\n\",TafT,\"If you are using a USB 3 port to connect the printer to your PC, try connecting via a USB 2 hub. \n\nMy Vector 3 will not work on a USB 3 port, only on a USB 2 or lower. The device correctly mounts and presents but serial communication fails. One of my laptops only has USB 3 ports on it, so to work around the limitation I connect via a cheap USB 2 hub. \n\nI have heard that many 3D printers use a similar USB to UART / serial connector chip and that they suffer from similar limitations as a result. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3471,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,LegendaryDude,3.0576060275493275,5.2290602785509055,3.507933925167123,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,Why are my prints so defective?,\"I received a Monoprice Maker Select v2 (I3 V2 clone) from my wife for Christmas. The sample .gcode files that came with the printer generally print great with no noticeable defects.\n\nHowever, when I try to print miniatures for use with table-top gaming (D&D, primarily), I tend to get a lot of oozing and stringing. On top of that, bridge supports don't cool in time and tend to get fudged by the print nozzle, which results in oddities like arms being only half printed, sticking to the nozzle, and getting relocated to some other part of the print. If I use full grid supports with the most modest fill settings (8%) they end up being stronger than the miniature and are a real pain to remove. \n\nMy printer is calibrated, as level as can be (the desk it's on is slightly warped but I've got the printer in the center of the warp; there is no wobble or lean) and squared. The build plate is calibrated and set to the right height. \n\nI'm using the version of Cura that came on the SD card with the printer (honestly not sure which one and I'm not at home to check). I've fiddled with print speed, extruder temp (ranging from 185 to 210), layer cooling, retraction settings, and tried switching to Slic3r (didn't go over well -- couldn't even get past the first layer).\n\nI'm using Hatchbox silver PLA filament (1.75mm +/- 0.05mm). I don't have another filament I can test with to compare performance. \n\nEven when I import the profile settings from one of the sample .gcode files I tend to end up with blobbing, pulling, and stringing all over the miniatures, in addition to missing or deformed parts. Notably, arms and hands -- most often overhangs -- tend to stick to the hotend and get repositioned, sending the whole thing out of whack. \n\nI end up with similar problems when I use the Novice mode settings in Cura (Normal Quality, High Quality, etc).\n\nIs there something I'm missing that I can do to improve the quality of small, detailed prints, or is the I3, as an entry-level printer, simply not up to the task? I'm especially interested in answers from users who have experience printing miniatures and their experiences in tuning for that type of print job.\n\nA few things I've tried test printing:\n\nPrinter calibration test model v1\n\nPrinter calibration test model v3\n\nBoth of these came out very stringy, with lots of blobbing and layer pulling, especially towards the upper portions of the taller elements.\n\nI have also tried printing these two models:\n\nKnight with sword - high detail\n\nElf monk - high detail\n\nAll test prints of these two models had at least one missing hand due to it getting stuck to the hotend and pulling off the part, and both demonstrated lots of minor blobbing and pulling on otherwise smooth surfaces, with loss of detail in the more finely detailed areas. Here's a sample of the output for the knight model. Please ignore the fact that he has been dismembered, that was mostly my fiddling with it post-printing (I guess I don't know my own strength), though the left hand was not well-attached and fell off rather easily. He was printed with both hands and feet/base intact, but you can see the blobbing and pulling pretty well.\n\n\n\",Jason Clark,\"I've not done much miniatures printing, but I have the same printer and I happen to have the exact same filament loaded. Also, I've been doing a lot of tuning lately, including this z-brace mod which has improved my overall print quality, so I thought I'd take a pass at printing the Knight from your photos and sharing my findings. \n\nFirst, I've posted a series of pictures to show my findings. Overall, I'd say my print quality was better than what you showed in your photos, but still isn't good enough. I sliced with Cura 15.04.6, and printed from SD card. Here are my (Full) settings:\n\nLayer height (mm) : 0.1\nShell thickness (mm) : 0.5\nEnable retraction : Yes\nBottom/Top thickness (mm) : 0.3\nFill Density (%) : 20\nPrint Speed (mm/s) : 20\nPrinting Temperature (C) : 210\nBed Temperature (C) : 67\nSupport Type : Everywhere\nPlatform Adhesion : None\nSkirts : 3\nFilament Diameter (mm) : 1.75\nFilament Flow (%) : 100.0\nNozzle size (mm) : 0.5\n\nRetract Speed (mm/s) : 40.0\nRetract Distance (mm) : 7\nInitial Layer Thick (mm) : 0.2\nInitial Later width (%) : 100\nCut off object bottom (mm): 0.0\nTravel Speed (mm/s) : 100\nBottom Layer Speed (mm/s) : 20\nInfill speed (mm/s) : 50\nTop/bottom speed (mm/s) : 20\nOuter Shell speed (mm/s) : 20\nInner Shell speed (mm/s) : 20\nMin. Layer Time (sec) : 10\nEnable cooling fan : Yes\n\n\nI do most of my printing with a later height of 0.2mm, but for a detailed mini, 0.1mm is probably the largest that will look good (and probably the smallest possible on this printer. I normally set most of my speeds to 50 mm/s, with first layer at 20 mm/s; for this I slowed it all to 20 mm/s due to the fine details, and I think it helped. \n\nTemps of 67˚C bed and 210˚C extruder are what I've found to work best on my machine for PLA, after much experimentation, but your machine may vary; I'm not sure how accurate the temperature measurements are on these machines. 67˚C gives me an observed bed temp of 60˚C, but that's at the top surface - I have PEI atop Borosilicate glass, adhered to the bare aluminum bed with silicone-based heat transfer pad.\n\nI think I miscalculated the top/bottom heights and infill. I'm not used to printing at 0.1mm layer height, but 3 top layers over 20% infill is clearly not enough - see the closeup of the mini's base in my linked gallery. Next print, I'll either try 0.6mm top/bottom, or much higher infill.\n\nThe supports came off easily; I used a pair of sidecutters from my electronics bench. A little more cleanup with a sharp hobby knife, combined with a better base top layer would probably produce an acceptable result.\n\nThere were two major flaws. The first are the little blobs on many layers; see for example the inseam area on the picture of the knight's back. Ed Nisley at Softsolder.com calls these \"\"Reveral Zits\"\", and I think the name is apt. These happen when the print head needs to quickly reverse direction or stop-move-print, but filament continues to extrude. I use fairly aggressive retraction settings, and I think my print shows smaller zits than yours, but still far too many. Ed has explored this topic in some depth; it's possible my extruder stepper isn't keeping up with my settings due to mechanical limits. This is an area I want to pursue, but I don't have time at the moment. I plan to read Ed's work and try some experiments on my machine to see if I can get better results; I will update this answer if/when I do. As it stands, most of them are quite small, and could probably be cleaned up with a knife; the worst are those around unsupported areas, such as the back of the shoulder guard.\n\nThe second major flaw is the helmet. It's just... bad. I'm not sure the printer has much hope of nailing those horns, but overall the head is just bad. I'm not sure what can be done there.\n\nTo summarize: @disc0ninja's advice on Bed Level and Print speed are certainly the right place to start; You might want to try my Cura settings to see if you get similar results. Also, the Z-brace mod I linked to above has made a big difference for me; I rarely have to adjust my leveling anymore. I also plan to try slicing with Slic3r, which I haven't used previously, but have been looking into. You mentioned you couldn't print with Slic3r, was that USB or SD Card? I'd suggest trying via SD if it failed during USB printing.\n\nUpdate 30 Jan 2017: It took a little doing, but I managed to slice and print this model via slic3r. I had some issues with the original STL in slic3er, which I ended up fixing with a free trial at makeprintable.com. I spent a lot of time fiddling with slic3r; it has a lot more knobs to turn than Cura, and I make no claims of having the best settings for this print. There are so many settings that rather than transcribe them here, I've captured them in my pictures of the slic3er print.\n\nOverall, I feel like the quality is higher. The \"\"reversal zits\"\" are hardly noticeable; but the big remaining problem is one I didn't fully diagnose in the original Cura print - lack of support for areas such as the shoulders. Slic3r added more support than Cura, but it's also harder to separate from the base. The head isn't great, but much better than the Cura print; I don't think my photos show it as well as it looks. This print has convinced me that there's plenty of quality still to be wrung from this printer; I hope to make time to do some more slic3r prints of this model while tweaking the params to see what's possible. If I make any big leaps in quality I will update this answer.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n3471,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,LegendaryDude,3.0576060275493275,5.2290602785509055,3.507933925167123,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,Why are my prints so defective?,\"I received a Monoprice Maker Select v2 (I3 V2 clone) from my wife for Christmas. The sample .gcode files that came with the printer generally print great with no noticeable defects.\n\nHowever, when I try to print miniatures for use with table-top gaming (D&D, primarily), I tend to get a lot of oozing and stringing. On top of that, bridge supports don't cool in time and tend to get fudged by the print nozzle, which results in oddities like arms being only half printed, sticking to the nozzle, and getting relocated to some other part of the print. If I use full grid supports with the most modest fill settings (8%) they end up being stronger than the miniature and are a real pain to remove. \n\nMy printer is calibrated, as level as can be (the desk it's on is slightly warped but I've got the printer in the center of the warp; there is no wobble or lean) and squared. The build plate is calibrated and set to the right height. \n\nI'm using the version of Cura that came on the SD card with the printer (honestly not sure which one and I'm not at home to check). I've fiddled with print speed, extruder temp (ranging from 185 to 210), layer cooling, retraction settings, and tried switching to Slic3r (didn't go over well -- couldn't even get past the first layer).\n\nI'm using Hatchbox silver PLA filament (1.75mm +/- 0.05mm). I don't have another filament I can test with to compare performance. \n\nEven when I import the profile settings from one of the sample .gcode files I tend to end up with blobbing, pulling, and stringing all over the miniatures, in addition to missing or deformed parts. Notably, arms and hands -- most often overhangs -- tend to stick to the hotend and get repositioned, sending the whole thing out of whack. \n\nI end up with similar problems when I use the Novice mode settings in Cura (Normal Quality, High Quality, etc).\n\nIs there something I'm missing that I can do to improve the quality of small, detailed prints, or is the I3, as an entry-level printer, simply not up to the task? I'm especially interested in answers from users who have experience printing miniatures and their experiences in tuning for that type of print job.\n\nA few things I've tried test printing:\n\nPrinter calibration test model v1\n\nPrinter calibration test model v3\n\nBoth of these came out very stringy, with lots of blobbing and layer pulling, especially towards the upper portions of the taller elements.\n\nI have also tried printing these two models:\n\nKnight with sword - high detail\n\nElf monk - high detail\n\nAll test prints of these two models had at least one missing hand due to it getting stuck to the hotend and pulling off the part, and both demonstrated lots of minor blobbing and pulling on otherwise smooth surfaces, with loss of detail in the more finely detailed areas. Here's a sample of the output for the knight model. Please ignore the fact that he has been dismembered, that was mostly my fiddling with it post-printing (I guess I don't know my own strength), though the left hand was not well-attached and fell off rather easily. He was printed with both hands and feet/base intact, but you can see the blobbing and pulling pretty well.\n\n\n\",disc0ninja,\"I have an Alunar(Anet) Prusa i3 printer I bought from amazon 7 months ago. I have not done much for ultra high detail prints, but it does seem to print everything I've thrown at it quite well. It took sometime for me to get it dialed in. I've found that Bed Level, Z-axis height, and Print Speed are usually what makes the most difference.\n\nI have only used Inland PLA (Microcenter brand) and can get good quality prints. \n\nI would recommend double checking bed level, z-axis, and going through print quality trouble shooting. Re-measure your PLA thickness and make sure your print multiplier is adjusted appropriately, and try to slow down your print speed.\n\nIf you could post a link to a sample file that you're trying to print It may be helpful?\n\nSimplify 3D has a wonderful trouble shooting guide you can check out here\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3472,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,LegendaryDude,2.528907649931287,5.17715239683425,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,How important is the dimensional accuracy of filament relative to the detail of a print?,\"In this answer user Barafu says,\n\n\n Yet I manage to keep my tolerances +- 0.05 mm which is enough for everything but miniature printing.\n\n\nI have asked for clarification on that answer regarding what is meant by \"\"miniature printing\"\" but in the meantime, I want to ask the general question.\n\nWhat impact does dimensional accuracy of filament have on final print quality, and why? Does it vary between different filament types? \n\",Davo,\"Dimensional accuracy is not as important as dimensional uniformity. I can print with undersized (or oversized) filament, adjusting the flow appropriately, provided the filament has a consistent diameter. When creating filament in-house, without expensive equipment, it is difficult to maintain the same diameter throughout the entire extrusion. It is likely this extrusion diameter (when creating filament, rather than the output of the actual print head) to which Barafu is referring when he mentions his tolerances: +/- 0.05 mm in diameter. Which is reasonable.\n\nThe \"\"miniature printing\"\" comment likely refers to printing miniature models for tabletop gaming.\n\nIf the source filament becomes wider than expected, the output will have overflow, or more material than desired will be deposited, and this will certainly affect the quality of the piece.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n3472,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,LegendaryDude,2.528907649931287,5.17715239683425,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,How important is the dimensional accuracy of filament relative to the detail of a print?,\"In this answer user Barafu says,\n\n\n Yet I manage to keep my tolerances +- 0.05 mm which is enough for everything but miniature printing.\n\n\nI have asked for clarification on that answer regarding what is meant by \"\"miniature printing\"\" but in the meantime, I want to ask the general question.\n\nWhat impact does dimensional accuracy of filament have on final print quality, and why? Does it vary between different filament types? \n\",osirisstar,\"Put it simply: they say 1.75 mm with a ± error of 0.05 mm. Which means your flow may vary ±2.9 % while you are printing creating blobs and such. \n\nThe smaller the filament tolerance, the more expensive the production costs.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3478,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,MattCrow,1.0891412423578797,3.469045931690484,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,What is the best material for printing an anatomic bone model?,\"What is the best medium/material for printing an anatomic model for educational or study purposes? Specifically, I'm interested in printing intricate head and neck bony anatomy that requires fine detail to look at important holes and \"\"cracks\"\"/fissures. \n\",fred_dot_u,\"The Stack Exchange discourages \"\"best\"\" type questions, as any answers are going to be opinion based. There are going to be more opinions than types of materials and types of printing.\n\nYour question regarding specifics is more on the mark, however, and has less to do with material than with method.\n\nConsider that resin based printing, especially SLA printers will provide extremely fine detail at extremely fine prices. SLA printers are more commonly used for smaller models such as jewelry and dental applications.\n\nSLS, Selective Laser Sintering is capable of nearly as detailed work as SLA and is better suited for larger models. One can contract for SLS work on the major 3D printing services. Pricing for SLS is also \"\"up there.\"\" Use The Google to locate 3D printer services for a suitable resource.\n\nIn the FDM world, you'll find lower costs and lower resolution. My printer is capable of 0.100 mm layer thickness, which means barely visible layer lines, but they are still quite obvious, especially on sloped or slanted surfaces. \n\nI suggest that you find a small scale or segment of the part you wish to have printed and send it off for sample returns in the above formats.\n\nAs an option, once you have the parts, you could consider to use them to create molds and cast in resin as many copies as you would need.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n3479,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Regtoy,1.0891412423578797,4.127267616983492,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Melzi v3b firmware flash,\"I'm trying to flash the repetier Firmware to my Prusa i3 3D Printer, which uses Melzi 2.0 board. I uploaded it successfully 2 days ago with same settings but now is failing always.\n\n@avrdude -p m1284p -b57600 -c arduino -P COM%x% -e -U flash:w:%filename%.hex\navrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions\nReading | ################################################## | 100% 0.02s\navrdude: Device signature = 0x1e9705 (probably m1284p)\navrdude: erasing chip\navrdude: reading input file \"\"newa.hex\"\"\navrdude: input file newa.hex auto detected as Intel Hex\navrdude: writing flash (114266 bytes):\nWriting | | 0% 0.00s\navrdude: stk500_paged_write(): (a) protocol error, expect=0x14, resp=0x64 \navrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding \n\n\nHow do I solve this problem?\n\",lights0123,\"I have had trouble before not using spacing between arguments. I think no spacing between -b and 57600 is causing the problem. Try\n\navrdude -p m1284p -b 57600 -c arduino -P COM%x% -e -U flash:w:%filename%.hex\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3483,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,lights0123,1.0891412423578797,3.282132985301826,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Print failing when connecting mains loads,\"I am running the SeeMeCNC customized version of Repetier on a Rostock Max V2. I have experienced this problem with both the stock configuration along with an E3D The Chimera. Sometimes, when I am printing and connect a mains device, my printer will fail in some way. The first time this happened I was printing with ABS, so I connected my fume sucker (A ~25-50W fan) to an outlet. However, when I connected it, the LCD showed garbled characters and my software (MatterControl) reported an error. Restarting the printer returned it to the previous state. I had a ~15 foot (coiled) extension cord connected to a 3-way splitter.\n\nToday, I connected a hot glue gun, and MatterControl reported that Repetier had switched to \"\"Printer set into dry run mode until restart!\"\" (no heat or extrusions). Looking at the firmware, this seems to be caused by a thermistor failure. I had everything plugged into the same setup as before, except for a surge protector at the end. The circuit that it is connected to has a 20A circuit breaker, with probably ~3A of it constantly used.\n\nMy theory for this is that an additional device causes a slight fluctuation in the thermistor wires, causing an error to occur. However, the Rostock Max is designed so that wires are inside of aluminum tubes, which I think would provide EMF protection. The power supply is a generic 12V 30A power supply that was included in the kit, usually seen in LED strips. Both of these occurred while printing. I have ordered a UPS for the printer: would its under/over-voltage detection help? Are there any other solutions for this?\n\",Collin Willson,\"I have had the same Issue with my Maker select prusa printer, the way I found that best combats this is to attach the printer to a UPS and avoid attaching any High draw devices from the same circuit. Every Time i'd switch something on, My TV, my lights, etc. The same would happen. Hope this helps!\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3492,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,lights0123,2.1782824847157594,4.822569552719466,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,2.6553159206313057,\"Why would one choose 12 V from 24 V, from a safety standpoint?\",\"I have seen many people saying on this site and many other 3D printing websites that 24 V systems are safer, compared to 12 V systems. By safer, I am talking in terms of fires or other electrical and component failures. \n\nWhy would a 24 V system cause less danger? I would think that 12 V would be safer because it is very common (automotive) and many parts have been around for a while that use it. Although there are an increasingly amount of boards that support 24 V, many don't or need fuses or other parts that do support 24 V. \n\nAlso, many parts that I have used are rated for 12 - 24 V. A 12 V power supply can go a bit over fairly comfortably. A 24 V power supply can't without partially going over the rating.\n\nIf I had to build a printer designed with safety as a main priority, what voltage would be best?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The most important \"\"safety\"\" advantage when using 24V (compared to 12V) is that to get the same power, you only need half the current. A 192W heated bed would need 16A at 12V, but only 8A at 24V.\n\nSince one of the most common safety issues is underrated screw terminals being used for the heated bed (just search for \"\"3d printer fire\"\"; you'll find quite a few pictures of charred plastic around screw terminals). For example, the screw terminals on RAMPs board are only rated for up to 12A. That would be okay at 24V, but well over the limit at 12V.\n\nSince the wire gauge is dependent on current, you can also use somewhat thinner wires with a 24V system (or equivalently: wires that would melt in a 12V setup won't in a 24V setup). The power dissipated in a wire scales quadratically with current, so the same wire being used in a 24V setup would only waste a quarter of the heat of that wire in a 12V setup. There is also less strain on switching devices (such as MOSFETs or relays). The same applies here: power loss is quadratic with current.\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n3492,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,lights0123,2.1782824847157594,4.822569552719466,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,2.6553159206313057,\"Why would one choose 12 V from 24 V, from a safety standpoint?\",\"I have seen many people saying on this site and many other 3D printing websites that 24 V systems are safer, compared to 12 V systems. By safer, I am talking in terms of fires or other electrical and component failures. \n\nWhy would a 24 V system cause less danger? I would think that 12 V would be safer because it is very common (automotive) and many parts have been around for a while that use it. Although there are an increasingly amount of boards that support 24 V, many don't or need fuses or other parts that do support 24 V. \n\nAlso, many parts that I have used are rated for 12 - 24 V. A 12 V power supply can go a bit over fairly comfortably. A 24 V power supply can't without partially going over the rating.\n\nIf I had to build a printer designed with safety as a main priority, what voltage would be best?\n\",StarWind0,\"From a pure safety standpoint there is nothing about a 24v system that is distrinctly more safe than a 12v system. I see you added comments about something involving wire sizes. This is not really a factor.. I would say not knowing what wire size to use is a whole other issue. There is nothing stopping you from putting on larger wires. \n\nThe following websites verify the fact that a 24v needs smaller wires. Though again the system it self is not safer because the wires required are smaller.\n\n\nJamesTown\nSDC minimum wire gauge to distance chart\n\n\nI will also note the size difference is negligible anyways. It is not a major difference. \n\nNow one exception to this. If you had a 24v and a 12v compatible board. I would pick a 24v. The reason is not that the wire sizes needed are different. But for the reduced danger of the CONNECTOR that the wires attach to. I see quite often in the flashforge owner group boards that have caught fire due to a cheap connector that can not handle the load for the printer.\n\",-1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3486,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,MilMike,1.0891412423578797,4.814782236759568,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Font for cutting?,\"I want to print a text inside a box. I mean the text should be cut out (see through). Example:\n\n\nAs you can see the parts in \"\"o\"\" and \"\"e\"\" cant float.. it needs some kind of a support. Also the top triangle in the M can't be printed without a support.\nHere is something I found, I think this is what I need:\n\n\n\nCan you recommend me a font or some app to make these fonts printable the way I need it?\n\nThe software I use is Simplify3D and all the free ones like cura. \n\",fred_dot_u,\"I did a quick search using The Google with the terms \"\"stencil font.\"\" There were too many results to list here and the first link I clicked on provided some seriously ugly fonts. Stencil fonts by definition will result in supported center pieces. Windows has a native font named, surprisingly enough, Stencil which does the same, but it's not quite as imaginative as the ones found using The Google.\n\nHere's an example from Font Squirell:\n\nOctin Prison\n\n\n\nHow about something a bit more bizarre from the same location:\n\nVanBerger Font\n\n\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n3493,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Davepix,2.8153892694839717,4.815384417074632,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,0.7766301205685938,Bed design for magnetic easy release when printing PLA,\"I print on a glass bed covered with BuildTak. Prints stick well, release is difficult. They sell a mod, self adhesive magnetic sheet that holds a steel plate which in turn you put the BuildTak on making it easier to get your prints off by twisting the flexible steel as opposed to chiseling your print off a glass plate while attempting to not peel chunks of the expensive Buildtak off.\n\nMagnetic sheets have different strengths proportional to thickness in milimeters. I can get 0.03 mm locally which provides 85 lbs pull per sqft. and was wondering if this might work. It's hard to find the stronger pulls, 0.045 mm and 0.06 mm which can pull 115 and 145 lbs respectively.\n\nI'd prefer cut my own new bed sandwich rather than pay 90 bucks for one. \n\n\nHas anyone made a bed using adhesive magnetic sheet> \nWhat thickness magnetic sheet has worked for you? \nWhat thickness steel are you using? \n\n\nAssume it has to flex easily to twist the part of and also flexible enough for the magnet to pull it flat.\n\n\n\nWith respect to the comment by tbm0115:\n\n\n I don't think you need that much magnetic pull for this application. Adhering basic coin magnets to a material in a large array should secure the material appropriately for a desktop printer.\n\n\nI see where you are going with coin magnets. Have you tried this? In the original Makerbot Cupcake this is how it was done though with larger build surfaces you get warp on metal plates. Most metal sheet comes from the plant on a roll. Though your metal looks nice and flat, temperature changes will cause it to warp and as you know with SLA printers, a changing bed can cause a failure. This happened on the original Makerbot replicator 1st release followed by using a machined plate as a replacement.\n\",Davepix,\"Follow up:\n\nI used the 6mil magnet, cut a sheet of thin steel, (about .5mm) to fit, added a layer of Buildtak and now it's much easier to remove prints, build surface is very flat. I assume you could deform the metal beyond the magnet's ability to flatten it but it works quite well. The metal was cut with sheet metal snips, risky as they can bend the sheet. Probably better done with a saw though.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3493,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Davepix,2.8153892694839717,4.815384417074632,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,0.7766301205685938,Bed design for magnetic easy release when printing PLA,\"I print on a glass bed covered with BuildTak. Prints stick well, release is difficult. They sell a mod, self adhesive magnetic sheet that holds a steel plate which in turn you put the BuildTak on making it easier to get your prints off by twisting the flexible steel as opposed to chiseling your print off a glass plate while attempting to not peel chunks of the expensive Buildtak off.\n\nMagnetic sheets have different strengths proportional to thickness in milimeters. I can get 0.03 mm locally which provides 85 lbs pull per sqft. and was wondering if this might work. It's hard to find the stronger pulls, 0.045 mm and 0.06 mm which can pull 115 and 145 lbs respectively.\n\nI'd prefer cut my own new bed sandwich rather than pay 90 bucks for one. \n\n\nHas anyone made a bed using adhesive magnetic sheet> \nWhat thickness magnetic sheet has worked for you? \nWhat thickness steel are you using? \n\n\nAssume it has to flex easily to twist the part of and also flexible enough for the magnet to pull it flat.\n\n\n\nWith respect to the comment by tbm0115:\n\n\n I don't think you need that much magnetic pull for this application. Adhering basic coin magnets to a material in a large array should secure the material appropriately for a desktop printer.\n\n\nI see where you are going with coin magnets. Have you tried this? In the original Makerbot Cupcake this is how it was done though with larger build surfaces you get warp on metal plates. Most metal sheet comes from the plant on a roll. Though your metal looks nice and flat, temperature changes will cause it to warp and as you know with SLA printers, a changing bed can cause a failure. This happened on the original Makerbot replicator 1st release followed by using a machined plate as a replacement.\n\",Eagl3,\"Try using buildtak flex. https://www.buildtak.com/product/flexplate/\n\nor cheaper alternatives:\nhttp://www.printinz.com/printinz-plate-3d-printer-bed-upgrade/ \n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3495,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TuanSSM,2.1782824847157594,5.2900599093272165,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Stepper Motor for Prusa i3,\"We have stepper motors with these specs:\n\n\n1200 mA\n4 V\n3.2 kg • cm\n\n\nAre these enough for building a Prusa i3 3D printer?\n\n(I live in Turkey and these are the specs of the NEMA 17 they sell in here)\n\",Greenonline,\"Awful answer, I know, but it depends... on where you are going to employ them: \n\n\nare they are all, or just some, of the axes, or;\njust for the extruder? \n\n\nIf they are for use in translating movement of the axes, then the weights of:\n\n\nthe y-axis plate;\nthe x-axis carriage, and;\nthe print head,\n\n\nwill all come into play - amongst many other things. \n\nWith a torque of just 32 N • cm1, they seem, at first glance, to be a little underpowered - a torque of 44 N • cm (4.5 kg·cm) is the recommended minimum. Also, the current, of 1.2 A, seems to be a tad on the low side, 1.5 - 1.8 A is recommended.\n\nThere are some great resources on the RepRapWiki. See:\n\n\nNEMA 17 stepper motor, and;\nStepper motor\n\n\nThe minimum (recommended) specifications, for a Nema 17 stepper motor, are:\n\n\n \n 1.5 A to 1.8 A current per phase\n 1 to 4 V\n 3 to 8 mH inductance per phase\n 44 N·cm (62 oz·in, 4.5 kg·cm) or more holding torque\n 1.8° or 0.9° per step (200/400 steps/rev respectively)\n \n\n\nYou may be able to get yours to work, but is it worth the hassle, just to save a few quid? Best to get the recommended, and most popular steppers, which are:\n\n\nKysan 1124090/42BYGH4803;\nRattm 17HS8401, and;\nWantai 42BYGHW609\n\n\nObviously, you don't have to use one of these three motors - other stepper motors can be used. On the Nema 17 Stepper motor link, above, there is a table of a number of stepper motors, of various makes and models, that have been proven to work.\n\n\n\nFurther Reading\n\nMotors, a thread on the RepRap forums - specifically for the Prusa Mendel v2, so not entirely related to the i3, as the steppers for the z-axis are less than those for the x and y axes, but it is a good informative read nevertheless.\n\n\n\n1 I assume that you actually mean either 32 N • cm, or 3.2 kg • cm.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3502,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bhaskar,0.0,3.171906017490645,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How to make a steel mold from a 3D print in high detailed resin?,\"I'm looking for information on how to make a steel mold from 3D print model using high detailed Resin.\n\nMy model is a custom made figurine/mininature of 6 inch.\n\nCan anyone share companies that can make high detailed steel molds either in US or China.\n\nThanks,\n-Uday.\n\",DepressedDaniel,\"Unless you have proven demand, you should start with aluminum tooling. It's much cheaper than steel, and (I'm assuming you want this for injection molding) you can produce quite a decent amount of parts from aluminum tooling if you handle it carefully.\n\nWhy do you want your tooling to be based on a 3D print model? Typically, for greatest accuracy, the tool and die company works from your original CAD work that you printed the 3D model from.\n\nIn terms of companies, Protolabs does plastic injection molding: https://www.protolabs.com/injection-molding/plastic-injection-molding/\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3507,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Alic,3.618048892289167,5.983005910410849,1.7539669625835614,5.646830619998737,4.83456264223006,3.484426188570545,Is PLA filament conductive?,\"I am planing on printing something that will make contact with PCB boards. The print will be most likely to be in PLA. I don't want to fry the PCB board so I want to know if 3D printed PLA objects are conductive.\n\nI googled and found out about special non-conductive PLA and conductive PLA. But what about the conductivity of normal PLA?\n\",Barron B.,\"Normal PLA is non conductive. You can take an OHM meter to a test part if you're really concerned somehow you have some PLA that is conductive.\n\nThere is a caveat that your color may include metal flake of some kind. Depending on the density it may be conductive. But I've tested my silver on hand and it OHMed infinite resistance.\n\",4.143478317956379,2.0769199823829045\n3507,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Alic,3.618048892289167,5.983005910410849,1.7539669625835614,5.646830619998737,4.83456264223006,3.484426188570545,Is PLA filament conductive?,\"I am planing on printing something that will make contact with PCB boards. The print will be most likely to be in PLA. I don't want to fry the PCB board so I want to know if 3D printed PLA objects are conductive.\n\nI googled and found out about special non-conductive PLA and conductive PLA. But what about the conductivity of normal PLA?\n\",pasaba por aqui,\"PLA itself falls in the category of non-conductors, with a resistivity in the order of 10^16 ohm*m (see here), similar to other plastics. Following image gives an idea of the values of resistivity for usual conductors and isolators, insulating materials have resistivity greater than 10^9 ohm*m, conductors have it smaller than 100 ohm*m (copper is about 10^-8 ohm*m).\n\n\n\nHowever, PLA can be mixed with some amounts of a conductor as graphite, making the filament a conductive material (not as good as, by example, copper). This filament can be used to create some kinds of electric circuits.\n\nOther additions (coloring, ...) could also change slightly its properties.\n\nObviously, if PLA reaches glass transition temperature or melting point holes can appear in the surface, breaking insulation. \n\",3.367452517504837,0.0\n3513,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dan,1.0891412423578797,4.401460756619474,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Is it possible to 3D print a front bumper grille for a Honda Accord CL7?,\"I probably have to find out all the answers myself, but I could really use somebody else's experience.\n\n\nwhat material should I use, so the grill does not bend when exposed\nto the heat coming from the radiator\nI have to print the part in slices; what glue can I use to join them lately, again so it resists the heat from the radiator and doesn't catch fire\nis there maybe a CAD file describing this part, so I don't have to manually create it from scratch?\n\n\",bardiir,\"Your best bet for the material would be one of the high temperature filaments like the ColorFabb HT ones, they can take quite a punch when it comes to heat.\n\nAs for the model, you could try to source one of the grills that is at least as good in shape as possible and get it scanned, there are people offering this as a service for example over at 3dhubs.com\n\nGlue is really depending on the part, I would suggest creating a click-together type of system so the \"\"glue\"\" is only stabilizing it and not beeing a structural component. You can also get hold of a 3D Pen and weld the parts together with the same material used to print.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n3514,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Falderol,1.0891412423578797,4.631419967805398,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,3D printer extruding too thick,\"Last night there was an error in printing that caused the printer to stop printing, but kept the hotend on. This morning I discovered that it had fused to what it was printing after renaming on all night - it took some time to remove. \n\nPrints afterwards showed signs of under extrusion. Now when I tell it to extrude a millimeter, it no longer extrudes a thin strand, but instead exactly a millimeter of filament comes out the same diameter as it went in. Cleaning the hotend has done nothing, cleaning the extruder has done nothing. \n\nI'm left with two conclusions, either:\n\n\nthis is what is supposed to happen, it was broken the whole time, I had calibrated it for the broken setting and just need to recalibrate everything, or;\nsomething, most likely the nozzle, is broken. \n\n\",StarWind0,\"When you have a disaster print like this you almost always get carbon in the hot end. I have micro hand drills (0.2 mm) that I carefully use on the tip of the nozzle. There are also atomic pulls where you add plastic, heat it up till it extrudes then let it cool. Once cooled to 70°C pull hard. Repeat until pulls show no black. Or, if your nozzles are cheap just replace them. \n\nNote next time this happens, turn the hot end on so you can remove it quickly. Sounds like you chipped away. \n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3518,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Andy Andy,1.726248027126092,3.6818827665035174,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Will my Duplicator i3 be able to print this hole in the vertical wall without infill?,\"Will my Duplicator i3 be able to print this hole in the vertical wall without infill?\nThe wall is 7mm the diameter of the hole is 24mm, the shell thickness is 0.8mm. \n\n\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"The answer is yes. However I notice that some knowledge is missing due your comments. \n\nThe walls of the part is formed by 1 or several lines, this lines are called shell.\n\nThe Infill is the part that fills all within the walls or shell; you can set the infill by 5% to 100% depending in how strong you need the printed part or set 0 to get an empty shell.\n\nThe printer can be able to print any part, but some areas will need supports, this suports is a kind of outerfill to support areas that could overhang basically walls with 45 degrees or less, this support can be easily removed from the final part \n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n9883,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Andy Andy,2.528907649931287,2.9268557087492164,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Is the Sparkmaker good enough to print OO/HO small detail objects?,\"I don't want this to be a specific producer question, but I would like to know if the Sparkmaker is good enough to print small details in OO/HO scale objects.\nI'm referring here to objects like furniture, and other house appliances at scale.\nI wasn't able to find any visuals with very small objects for this printer.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"In general, resin printers can provide a level of detail that has to be viewed with a magnification device. The technology used in the printer will limit the resolution of the printed object. Laser based SLA printers will give the smallest resolution, while LCD panel based printers can be slightly more coarse.\n\nThe specifications on the web site for that printer indicate an X/Y resolution of 57 microns, which is 0.057 millimeters. One-sixteenth of a millimeter is quite a high resolution when it comes to 3D models.\n\nAccording to the 'net HO scale is 1:87, described as 3.5 mm per foot, a peculiar comparison. Directly related to the resolution of the printer, 0.057 mm becomes 0.20 inches approximately. I suspect that an HO scale model does not require one-fifth of an inch detail level.\n\nOO scale is slightly larger and would pose even less of a concern regarding fine resolution objects.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n9883,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Andy Andy,2.528907649931287,2.9268557087492164,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Is the Sparkmaker good enough to print OO/HO small detail objects?,\"I don't want this to be a specific producer question, but I would like to know if the Sparkmaker is good enough to print small details in OO/HO scale objects.\nI'm referring here to objects like furniture, and other house appliances at scale.\nI wasn't able to find any visuals with very small objects for this printer.\n\",Sylvain,\"I own a Sparkmaker FHD whose X/Y resolution is 57µm. Z resolution (layer height) is up to the user, 25, 50 or 100µm being typical values. I have limited experience with it but the level of detail seems to be coherent with the specification.\n\nThe more popular (but less powerful in therm of UV light, so slower) Anycubic printers have a 2k screen and reach a X/Y resolution of 47µm. I think some printers with a 4k screen can reach down to 37µm X/Y resolution, even if the practical resolution is probably larger, due to some horizontal light diffusion in the screen upper layers and in the FEP film.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3519,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Alvin Herawan,2.1782824847157594,5.984097944923575,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How to Make Use of 3mm Filaments?,\"I'm not really sure if I'm asking the right question here, but I just made a noob mistake of buying 3 mm filaments instead of 1.75 mm. I have a Makerbot Replicator 2 which I've been using and so far it is pulling in 1.75 mm quite well. \n\nIs there any way I can still make use the 3mm filaments, or do I need to use the filaments on different models? If it is the latter, which particular model is able to pull in 3 mm filament well?\n\",StarWind0,\"Well... Usually when one buys a 30 dollar roll of plastic they don't replace a 1k machine.. \n\nThat said you can change out the extruder. The extruder is what matters. So if you have a Prusa i3, you can go and buy say a e3d hot end that is made for 3mm. \n\nUsually we see 3mm on Bowden printers like the Ultimaker. Everyone else has moved to 1.8. \n\nI would just toss this on craigslist and get the correct plastic.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3519,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Alvin Herawan,2.1782824847157594,5.984097944923575,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How to Make Use of 3mm Filaments?,\"I'm not really sure if I'm asking the right question here, but I just made a noob mistake of buying 3 mm filaments instead of 1.75 mm. I have a Makerbot Replicator 2 which I've been using and so far it is pulling in 1.75 mm quite well. \n\nIs there any way I can still make use the 3mm filaments, or do I need to use the filaments on different models? If it is the latter, which particular model is able to pull in 3 mm filament well?\n\",Greenonline,\"This is not a definitive answer (and has turned into a ramble), as I have not yet had to change my filament size. \n\nHowever, initially, I would have thought that only the hotend and the hotend's nozzle would need to be changed, from one that can handle the 1.75 mm filament to 3 mm. If the extruder is spring loaded, then it should adjust itself to the thicker filament, without a problem. If not, then you may have to do a slight manual adjustment.\n\nHowever, after doing some further reading, there may be other factors that need to be considered, such as:\n\n\nExtruder gearing;\nMelt time (which would imply a different feed rate)\n\n\nIt could be worth having a close look at the aperture of your hotend. If, in the unlikely situation, it looks as if the hotend would accept 3 mm (or if you could remove the lining so that it can), you may not need to actually change any hardware, but instead just try tweeking the feedrate in the software, because as your nozzle is less than the width of the filament anyway, then it will be fine for both 1.75 mm and 3 mm. A 3 mm filament would require more heating, and therefore a slower feedrate than a 1.75 mm feedrate. Once the filament has melted, so long as the pressure from the extruder is sufficient, then the molten filament should come out of the nozzle. However, this may be a less than satisafctory method and result in some dubious prints.\n\nThere is an interesting thread on the RepRap wiki, 1.75mm Filament vs 3mm Filament, that discusses most of the points above.\n\nIt should be noted that the advantages of 3 mm filament has over 1.75 mm are that it is:\n\n\ncheaper\nstiffer (less flexible) and thus \"\"easier\"\" to push through the hotend.\n\n\nAs an aside, one interesting point raised in the thread, is that maybe a smaller extruder can be used, for the narrower 1.75 mm filament, thus resulting in a lighter print head. I am not sure how true that is.\n\nThis article, Converting a 3D printer from 3mm to 1.75mm, does the reverse of what you want, and comes with a video. It states that, as you have already found, that the hotend needs to be changed:\n\n\n The printer [Thomas] is changing out to accept 1.75mm is the Lulzbot\n Mini, one of the most popular printers that would ever need this\n modification. The only required materials is a new hot end suitable\n for 1.75mm filament, a 4mm drill, and a few wrenches and allen keys.\n It would be a smart idea to get a hot end that uses the same\n thermistor as the old one, but that’s not a deal-breaker as the\n problem can be fixed in the firmware.\n\n\nAlternatively, you could leave your printer as it is and use a 3mm to 1.75mm filament converter, which may be a bit of overkill for just one reel of filament1.\n\nThe bottomline\n\nTo be honest, is it worth the hassle, time and expense of having to modify and re-calibrate your printer (or worst case, change the model of the printer), just for the price of a reel of filament (assuming that you did not bulk purchase a bunch of reels)? It may be better to stick to one filament size (i.e. your original size) for all of your projects, and so resell the reel of 3 mm and stick with the 1.75 mm printer and buy the correct filament2.\n\n\n\n1 See also Conversion of 3mm ABS filament to 1.75mm\n\n2 See also Tom's answer to Conversion of 3mm ABS filament to 1.75mm\n\nSee also Can 1.75mm filament be used in a printer that takes 3mm filament?\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3521,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trevör,2.1782824847157594,4.726830220141054,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,3.320478682445624,2.453507803626381,3D printing a boat hull,\"I am wondering if it would it be feasible (at an affordable price) to 3D print a boat hull (small dimensions, maybe something like 60x40x20 cm). \n\nI am mostly concerned about: \n\n\ndurability (against salty water, UV rays, extreme temperatures\n(under the sun or in a cold ocean)\nstrength (the material should be able to resist some chocs and maybe a little bit of pressure if a wave was to smash on it).\nwaterproofness\n\n\nThose characteristics should last during extended periods of time in water (at least several months, maybe more, about a year or two). \n\nIs there any easily accessible 3D printing material that would match those characteristics? \n\",Barafu Albino,\"It is totally fine, it is what I did a lot at my previous job. I 3D printed cases for underwater stationary equipment, mini-submarines and simple buoys, and almost all of them work fine. In fact, most of the failures I had were the breach of sealant. Or someone forgot to close the lid. \nFor example this thing I've made. \n\nTo make watertight objects, follow the rules: \n\n\nYou may use PLA. Over the course of a few years in water it degrades only in color, unless exposed to direct sun heat for prolonged times. \nObviously, use several outer shells. \nIf you are making floating thingy, and there is a free space in your hull, do NOT leave it empty! Instead, make it solid in the model, and set slicer to use sparce hexacomb infill with a solid layer every 20-30 layers. This way, your model will be made of hundreds of isolated pockets of air, so a breach of a hull in some place will not sink it. You can also drop lead pellets into those pockets as they are made to weight the ship properly. \nSet nozzle diameter to layer height ratio to more than 3. It will produce nice thick layers welded shut. For example, use 0.7 nozzle for 0.2 layer or 0.4 nozzle for 0.1 layer. The last one can be a bad choice if your extruder can't provide that little flow and tears layers. In general, obtain those bigger nozzles for technical parts. 0.4 nozzle is for toys, really. \nRemember that wires conduct water just as well as electricity - water runs between the isolation and the copper core. No wires should go through the containment. \n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3521,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trevör,2.1782824847157594,4.726830220141054,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,3.320478682445624,2.453507803626381,3D printing a boat hull,\"I am wondering if it would it be feasible (at an affordable price) to 3D print a boat hull (small dimensions, maybe something like 60x40x20 cm). \n\nI am mostly concerned about: \n\n\ndurability (against salty water, UV rays, extreme temperatures\n(under the sun or in a cold ocean)\nstrength (the material should be able to resist some chocs and maybe a little bit of pressure if a wave was to smash on it).\nwaterproofness\n\n\nThose characteristics should last during extended periods of time in water (at least several months, maybe more, about a year or two). \n\nIs there any easily accessible 3D printing material that would match those characteristics? \n\",Falderol,\"Probably feasible, Affordable or simple probably not. To start from an affordability perspective, kayaks normally weigh around 20 kg, they kayak in the video mentioned in the other answer weighs in at 30kgs. Assuming you print all your parts perfectly, your using \\$15 a kg filament, and you use 25 kg of abs you are looking at a minimum of \\$375 in material just to print the kayak. After this the cost would only go up because now you need the parts to fasten it all together, the seat ect... In other words, it will probably be no cheaper and a whole lot more time intensive then buying one.\n\",0.0,0.0\n3526,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bill Chapman,1.0891412423578797,3.6723553103068682,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Can K-type thermocouple disconnects be used with thermocouple based 3D printers?,\"I currently have a Replicator 2 and a couple of clones. I'm a fairly experienced 3DP user and builder but one issue that I have over and over again is the very brittle screw type thermowell assemblies that get damaged whenever you try to replace a nozzle or repair your hot end. \n\nI'm wondering why I don't see more of the quick connect type thermocouple assemblies, like this K-type male.\n\nIt would be a great help on 3D Printers allowing easy disconnect of screw type thermowells without damaging them. Is there a reason that these are not being used? \n\nI was hoping someone with experience with these could tell me if they are worth trying out on some of my builds without risking some kind of dangerous situation. \n\",Diesel,\"Not sure if this is the reason, or just A reason, but thermocouples create a pretty small voltage for a given temperature, whereas thermistors have a larger (easier to read) change in resistance. I would expect that a thermocouple would require slightly more sensitive instrumentation to read it than a thermocouple. And seeing as space requirements aren't that significant on a 3D printer using the easier to read thermistor, despite its size, seems like the better option.\n\nI prefer thermocouples myself, since they don't need calibration and effectively lifetime guaranteed (aside from mechanical failure). However almost every project I've ever worked on, the Sparkies always seem to push for thermistors rather than thermocouples.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3532,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Johnson Zhou,2.528907649931287,5.064402854317103,2.7799718631987322,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,0.42741039782645945,3D prints keep suffering from warping,\"I have a Prusa i3 made by Geeetech. My 3D prints keep suffering from warping when printing with PLA.\n\nWhenever I print something with a base at about 10 cm x 10 cm, at least one corner of the print would warp up. I've read numerous articles about warping and tried all sorts of methods. My printer's bed is level, and heated to 60°C. My bed is made from clean glass. I've tried all sorts of adhesives. I tried blue tape, and used hair spray. \n\nThe only way for me to combat this is gluing the base to blue tape with 502 Glue. I used brim and the whole brim just warps up. I sometimes leave the model printing over night. For the first few hours it's perfectly flat. When I go back to it the next morning I'd find one corner warped up. This is very dysfunctional to my prints. \n\nIs there a reliable way to stop this warping from happening?\n\",StarWind0,\"For ABS it will warp unless you build a heat chamber. \n\nThat said the tricks to reduce warping come down to: \n\n\nMaterial, i.e. PLA is less likely to warp; \nUse a fan, it helps so much; \nMake sure you have temps calibrated well - Too hot is more warp; \nUse a raft. The Makerbot uses a raft and no heated bed; \nMake sure the room is not drafty. Having it by the window will result in warping; \nAdding a large brim also helps;\nI find good ol' glue sticks work the best at keeping the print to the bed;\nSMASH the first layer. This one is controversial. I personally do first layer at 130% and print speed of 30%. You get elephants foot sure, but it's on the bed real good.\n\n\nTom is right. It is very very hard to print that big of a piece without warping. That said I have done very large pieces on my Ultimaker, using a fan, glue stick, MatterHackers PRO PLA and no raft. But again that's on an Ultimaker. \n\nNote you can build a heat chamber pretty easily. Specifically a passive heat chamber. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3532,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Johnson Zhou,2.528907649931287,5.064402854317103,2.7799718631987322,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,0.42741039782645945,3D prints keep suffering from warping,\"I have a Prusa i3 made by Geeetech. My 3D prints keep suffering from warping when printing with PLA.\n\nWhenever I print something with a base at about 10 cm x 10 cm, at least one corner of the print would warp up. I've read numerous articles about warping and tried all sorts of methods. My printer's bed is level, and heated to 60°C. My bed is made from clean glass. I've tried all sorts of adhesives. I tried blue tape, and used hair spray. \n\nThe only way for me to combat this is gluing the base to blue tape with 502 Glue. I used brim and the whole brim just warps up. I sometimes leave the model printing over night. For the first few hours it's perfectly flat. When I go back to it the next morning I'd find one corner warped up. This is very dysfunctional to my prints. \n\nIs there a reliable way to stop this warping from happening?\n\",MentorsHouse,\"Source (at least in part): \n\n\nSolidWorks 2015 Tutorial with Video Instruction, page 11-6, and;\n12 ways to fight warping and curling, June 23, 2011 by MakerBlock\n\n\n\n Curling\n \n As printed plastic parts cool the different areas of the object can\n cool at different rates. 1 Depending upon the parts being printed,\n this effect can lead to warping and curling. Although PLA has a much\n lower shrinkage factor than ABS, both can warp and curl, potentially\n ruining a print. There are some very common ways to deal with this\n potential problem, the most notable being a heated build platform. \n However, sometimes that might not be enough.\n \n \n Use a heated build platform. A heated build platform helps keep the lowest levels of a print warm as the higher layers are printed. \n This allows the overall print to cool more evenly. A heated build\n platform, sometimes abbreviated as HBP, helps tremendously with just\n about any ABS print and large PLA prints.\n Print with a raft. Rafts are a printing option in ReplicatorG and Skeinforge. They’re basically a large flat lattice work of printed\n material underneath the lower-most layer of your printed object. \n They’ll also help reduce warping and curling by allowing your printed\n object to adhere better to your flat build surface. Other variations\n on this are to print with a larger raft and/or a thicker raft\n comprised of more layers.\n Calibrate your starting Z height. A good first layer makes all the difference. If your starting Z axis height is too high, the extruded\n filament won’t be able to make a good bond with the platform. If you\n think your Z axis starting height is too high, try lowering it by\n 0.05mm increments until you find a good first layer.\n Get the right build surface. Some people have experimented with different surfaces such as steel, titanium, glass, different kinds of\n plastic, different kinds of tape, and foam board. However, I find\n both ABS and PLA seem to stick really well to hot or warm Kapton tape.\n Clean your build surface. ABS and PLA stick better to a clean build surface. Keep it clean of dust, pieces of old prints, and any\n other debris.\n Print slower. Printing slower allows finer detail, better adhesion to the build surface and lower layers, and gives the printed part more\n time to cool evenly.\n Print cooler. Printing at a lower temperature isn’t always an option. Ideally, you should be printing at the lowest temperature\n required for extrusion and that allows good interlayer adhesion. \n However, trying lower temperatures isn’t for the faint of heart. \n Printing at a too low a temperature could cause harm to your extruder\n motor or extruder.\n Eliminate drafts or enclose your robot. Forrest Higgs found that having his 3D printer too close to an open window caused very uneven\n heating across his build surface. This in turn caused the side of his\n prints closest to the window to curl. Since keeping the window closed\n wasn’t an option for him, he compensated for the window drafts by\n adding a heat lamp. Cupcake and Thing-O-Matic owners might have an\n easier time of eliminating drafts by simply enclosing two or three of\n the sides of their robots. It will also have a fortunate side effect\n of helping to control fumes.\n Design with mouse ears. Zach Smith’s solution was to add little discs to corners of an object to help those corners stick to the\n platform. These essentially serve as “mini-rafts” to give those\n corners more surface area and better adhesion without having to print\n an entire raft.\n Design with aprons to hold down corners. Forrest Higgs suggested adding “aprons” around an object to be printed, while that object was\n being printed on a raft. These low thick pieces of plastic help keep\n the raft flat and help prevent any curling or warping from affecting\n the desired printed object itself.\n Design with surrounding thermal walls. While Forrest Higgs’ apron approach provides a mechanical advantage of essentially holding down\n corners with a chunk of plastic, Nophead has added thin surrounding\n walls to his designs to act as baffles to keep warm air around the\n printed object as it moves around. He’s postulated that a very thin\n surrounding wall could have the same beneficial effect as printing\n inside an enclosed build chamber. Interestingly, it seems that\n Nophead suggests that designing objects with more rounded corners\n might also help avoid curling and warping at those corners.\n Reduce infill. When printing a model you can chose to print it hollow, completely solid, or some percentage between zero and 100. \n However, as Nophead points out even the plastic inside a model exerts\n a force on the entire printed object as it cools. It stands to reason\n that the more plastic you have, the more those pieces of plastic will\n pull against themselves and the build surface as they cool. By\n reducing infill there will a reduced amount of internal tension as the\n object cools. Reducing these internal forces by printing with a lower\n infill ratio can help reduce curling and warping as well.\n \n\n\",-1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3537,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TafT,1.0891412423578797,4.028319421555711,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,\"Can I design or remix a model in SketchUp Make and legally share it via Thingiverse, MyMiniFactory or similar?\",\"SketchUp Make is licensed for non-commercial work only. This includes the output from the software. \n\n\n Trimble Navigation Limited and/or its affiliates (\"\"Trimble\"\") gives you\n a personal, worldwide, royalty-free, non-assignable and non-exclusive\n license to use the executable version of the Software for\n non-commercial use only. Non-commercial use means: you may not sell,\n rent, lease or lend the output of the Software or the Services.\n\n\nThe above retrieved 2016-02-07. The full SketchUp Make license can be found on the SketchUp website. \n\nIn what ways does this restrict my use of SketchUp Make generated material with sites that allow the sharing of models (and deisgn files)? This would include sites such as Thingiverse, MyMiniFactory and 3D Warehouse. \n\n\n\nFor example, must I always set a non-commercial license for my designs? \nThingiverse allows several different license choices to be selected. \n\nCan I permit the design to be printed by someone for money?\nThingiverse has links to 3D HUBS and Print a Thing which can be disabled per model. \n\nObviously the SketchUp Pro license makes many of the restrictions on what can be done with the output go away, which would be much simpler. However I do not expect to generate anywhere near the costs of purchasing a license ($695 US at the time of writing) by tweaking a few designs now and then. \n\n\n\nI want to comply with the licenses but I need to understand the limits of what I am permitted to do with SketchUp Make in order to do that. It may be much more prudent for me to invest my time in learning other tools that have no restrictions on what can be done with the output. \n\nAs this is a legal question it might matter what jurisdiction I am in and what jurisdiction the sites I may share to are in. I am based in the UK. Thingiverse is based in the State of New York. MyMiniFactory uses the Laws of England as a base. 3D Warehouse selects the State of California. \n\",Carl Witthoft,\"IANAL, naturally, so take this with that in mind.\n\nFrom what I've read and been instructed, any software which is licenced as non-commercial cannot be redistributed or incorporated into any commercial software product. The other thing about \"\"noncommercial\"\" software licenses is that they can't be used for corporate design work -- as opposed to home user hacking. \n\nNow, all you need to do is ensure that the license restrictions remain with the mixup files you post. There is no doubt that, so long as you do that, you are free from any legal problems that a downstream vendor may incur upon trying to sell the hardware produced. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3537,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TafT,1.0891412423578797,4.028319421555711,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,\"Can I design or remix a model in SketchUp Make and legally share it via Thingiverse, MyMiniFactory or similar?\",\"SketchUp Make is licensed for non-commercial work only. This includes the output from the software. \n\n\n Trimble Navigation Limited and/or its affiliates (\"\"Trimble\"\") gives you\n a personal, worldwide, royalty-free, non-assignable and non-exclusive\n license to use the executable version of the Software for\n non-commercial use only. Non-commercial use means: you may not sell,\n rent, lease or lend the output of the Software or the Services.\n\n\nThe above retrieved 2016-02-07. The full SketchUp Make license can be found on the SketchUp website. \n\nIn what ways does this restrict my use of SketchUp Make generated material with sites that allow the sharing of models (and deisgn files)? This would include sites such as Thingiverse, MyMiniFactory and 3D Warehouse. \n\n\n\nFor example, must I always set a non-commercial license for my designs? \nThingiverse allows several different license choices to be selected. \n\nCan I permit the design to be printed by someone for money?\nThingiverse has links to 3D HUBS and Print a Thing which can be disabled per model. \n\nObviously the SketchUp Pro license makes many of the restrictions on what can be done with the output go away, which would be much simpler. However I do not expect to generate anywhere near the costs of purchasing a license ($695 US at the time of writing) by tweaking a few designs now and then. \n\n\n\nI want to comply with the licenses but I need to understand the limits of what I am permitted to do with SketchUp Make in order to do that. It may be much more prudent for me to invest my time in learning other tools that have no restrictions on what can be done with the output. \n\nAs this is a legal question it might matter what jurisdiction I am in and what jurisdiction the sites I may share to are in. I am based in the UK. Thingiverse is based in the State of New York. MyMiniFactory uses the Laws of England as a base. 3D Warehouse selects the State of California. \n\",Sean Houlihane,\"Again, I'm not a specialist in intellectual property law (or any other sort of lawyer), but I have a different interpretation.\n\nThere is a potential difference between the use of the product, and the use of the derivatives of the product. For example, GCC has a restrictive (open) license, but its OK (in some contexts) to use the compiled code in a commercial product.\n\nGenerally, you (as creator of a work) will own all of the rights to a work. The supplier of the tools you use does not usually gain any rights to the resulting work.\n\nSo long as you don't gain from your use of the tool, it is probably OK for other people to profit from the use. Sharing with non-commercial should be your safest option if you're worried - but be aware that this doesn't prevent people from taking your design to a print service indirectly.\n\nTheir license says:\n\n\n Non-commercial use means that you may not sell, rent, or lease the\n output of the Software\n\n\nThis implies that they are not making any claims to restrict how other non-connected persons might use your works. Its specifically talking about use as part of employment, or you making a gain.\n\nI would also note that to me the language in the license does not look to have been drafted with a clear understanding of intent on this issue.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3542,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Daniel,1.726248027126092,3.247326609336232,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,CT Segmentation Model Intersection,\"I am using (micro)CT data and generating 3-D models using CTAn - a SkyScan piece of software: Bruker - Control and reconstruction programs.\n\nBasically I am using simple thresholding to create 3-D model STL files. \n\nWhat I would like to do is get the number of voxels where the surface area of the two models touch. \n\nImagine having a model that is a sphere with another model within it that is exposed on a portion of the sphere. I want to know the surface area of that exposed portion. \n\nDoes anybody have any advice? I have been banging my head against tools like 3D-Slicer, Seg3D, ITK-Snap and so on and have not been able to find this capability. \n\",Axel Fernandes,\"This solution assumes the following \n\na-The scaling factor for the object is correct i.e real world dimensions .\n\nb- There is a .STL file available . \n\nc- This will take some 3ds max skill and time . \n\nSteps to be followed - \n\n1- Take the .stl file into Autodesk 3ds max . \n\n2- Now we are going to trace the exposed surface using a process called reptology . Here is link to get you started - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azkbuZloTqo .\n\n3- Once you are satisfied with recreating the mesh and sure it is as accurate as humanly possible , run the measure utility on the recreated part . \n\nThis is the link . https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/3ds-max/learn-explore/caas/CloudHelp/cloudhelp/2016/ENU/3DSMax/files/GUID-12CDEA7A-042E-4CB3-9BF6-8191D3290CD8-htm.html .\n\nIf there is a upper side and a lower side to the model then you should divide the surface area in half ( in this case it would be ).\n\n3Ds max is very accurate if your part is designed properly .\n\n4- This can be done directly on the .STL file if you can efficiently isolate your target area , lemme warn you this is not an easy task .STL files are notoriously difficult to edit. ( its much easier to redesign on top ) \n\nTry it should work out fine . \n\nPlease do not waste time processing .STL files on 3D-Slicer, Seg3D, ITK-Snap\nthey are mostly for file preparation i.e (.STL file generation ),viewing and study purposes only .\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3543,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,GSH,2.528907649931287,4.491191602161855,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,\"Changing raster angle, raster width and build orientation in Ultimaker Cura\",\"I want to try out different combinations of\n\n\nraster angle, \nraster width and \nbuild orientation \n\n\nin Ultimaker Cura. \n\nI don't see any settings where I could change these. I am using Cura 2.3 \n\nAny suggestions how I could change that?\n\",Tim Kuipers,\"First: Update Ultimaker Cura. The latest is currently 3.5.1.\n\nYou can specify the angles and widths with the settings Infill Line Directions and Infill Line Width.\n\nIf you want them differently for different objects on the build plate you can specify those settings in the per-object settings menu on the left.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n4472,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,GSH,1.0891412423578797,3.4199815613998,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,How is the print time of an object to be printed estimated?,\"I am curious about the algorithm/principles behind the estimates that the slicing softwares provide. Is there a standard technique behind this and how accurate is it ?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Much of the software used in 3D printing is open-source, and so are some slicers. Cura, for instance, does (or did, this source code is from an older branch) its print time estimation in gcodeInterpreter.py.\n\nThe relevant portion of the source code is (simplified and with many lines removed for clarity):\n\n totalMoveTimeMinute = 0.0\n pos = util3d.Vector3()\n\n for line in gcodeFile:\n G = self.getCodeInt(line, 'G')\n if G is not None:\n if G == 0 or G == 1: #Move\n x = self.getCodeFloat(line, 'X')\n y = self.getCodeFloat(line, 'Y')\n z = self.getCodeFloat(line, 'Z')\n e = self.getCodeFloat(line, 'E')\n f = self.getCodeFloat(line, 'F')\n oldPos = pos.copy()\n pos.x = x\n pos.y = y\n pos.z = z\n feedrate = f\n currentE = e\n\n totalMoveTimeMinute += (oldPos - pos).vsize() / feedRate\n\n\nAs you can see, (this version of) Cura simply:\n\n\nLoops over all the G-code instructions,\nComputes the length of each move (in X/Y/Z) and divides that by the feedrate to get the time that move will take,\nSums this up over all the moves.\n\n\nand does not take into account:\n\n\nAcceleration or deceleration. It assumes the printer is always operating at the maximum feedrate,\nThe length of filament extruded. The feedrate is the speed for the move in (X,Y,Z,E), but Cura only looks at (X,Y,Z).\nThe time it takes to heat up the print bed/hotend or homing/autoleveling,\nThe effects of the printer slowing down if moves can not be read (from USB/SD-card) sufficiently fast (though this would be rather hard to include in any estimate).\n\n\nThe accuracy of this estimate can be arbitrarily bad if the feedrate is set to some unrealistic value.\n\nNewer versions of Cura use a much more advanced time estimate method, and it can be found in timeEstimate.cpp. It is much more complicated, and actually takes jerk/acceleration/deceleration into account. It is much more accurate.\n\nWe know exactly how 3D (open source) 3D printer firmwares work, so estimating print time is as easy as simulating execution of the G-code by your given firmware. There is no reason you can't get a really good estimation (if you take into account all of the intricacies of your given firmware's acceleration/deceleration techniques) but writing the code for it is rather involved.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n4472,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,GSH,1.0891412423578797,3.4199815613998,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,How is the print time of an object to be printed estimated?,\"I am curious about the algorithm/principles behind the estimates that the slicing softwares provide. Is there a standard technique behind this and how accurate is it ?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Generally speaking, the typical algorithm takes into account the slicer's speed settings for specific features of the build, such as infill, perimeters, top/bottom layers, etc. The distance traveled by the nozzle at a specific speed for each feature is also part of the equations involved. There are some rather vague portions of the nozzle movement based on acceleration and other factors which makes the calculations less accurate.\n\n\n How accurate is it?\n\n\nNot too accurate. My experience with three different slicers is that it's never been within better than ten percent. I believe the various combinations of features of a build are not going to be identical from one model to the next, preventing even a ballpark figure to be created from previous builds.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n3545,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Cliff Burton,2.1782824847157594,5.166785544844398,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Print circle arcs without supports,\"I'm still putting aside money for buying my first 3D printer and I'm designing all the things I have to print. \n\nAs I have a lot of things to print I would like to print as much of them as possible in a single print.\n\nI have some arcs of circle (between 90° and 320° and 10/30 cm of diameter) and I'm going to slice them so I'll be able to print many of them, vertically, in a single print. I read in the internet that I cannot print over 45°... but starting from where?\n\nThe image below shows how I would like to print my (orange) things\n\n\n\nI suppose I can print my things without supports because from Y-start to Y-end they are <= 45° (as the green line shows) is that right?\n\nThe red line, instead, shows a case where the angle, starting from a (Y: 50%) point, is higher than 45°.\n\nSo the question is: Can I print my things in such way?\n\",StarWind0,\"There are a lot of variables here... \n\nIf you did at ..\n\n\nhigher resolution.\nCalibrate your machine extremely well. Trial and error. Minimum temps and speed.\nIf you use a fan.\n\n\nIE bad calibration.\n\nGood calibration at a slower speed and lower temp.\n\n\n\nWhat is going to happen is you will get a lot of junk, lines, loops, stringers that you can later remove with clippers. See the first photo for an extreme case. It still printed.\n\nAlso if you use the right material as well. Some material, will do bridging better, IE ABS has a longer molecular chain than PLA so it tends to do overhangs / bridges better.\n\nImages from ultimaker\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n3545,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Cliff Burton,2.1782824847157594,5.166785544844398,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Print circle arcs without supports,\"I'm still putting aside money for buying my first 3D printer and I'm designing all the things I have to print. \n\nAs I have a lot of things to print I would like to print as much of them as possible in a single print.\n\nI have some arcs of circle (between 90° and 320° and 10/30 cm of diameter) and I'm going to slice them so I'll be able to print many of them, vertically, in a single print. I read in the internet that I cannot print over 45°... but starting from where?\n\nThe image below shows how I would like to print my (orange) things\n\n\n\nI suppose I can print my things without supports because from Y-start to Y-end they are <= 45° (as the green line shows) is that right?\n\nThe red line, instead, shows a case where the angle, starting from a (Y: 50%) point, is higher than 45°.\n\nSo the question is: Can I print my things in such way?\n\",Davo,\"This depends on your material, your nozzle diameter, and your layer height. In general, shorter layer thicknesses with wider path widths will give better overhangs. And note that the last bit of each of the larger arcs are nearly horizontal, and I do not expect them to work well without support material.\n\nSee the excellent answers at How can I improve the overhang angles my printer can successfully print?\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3547,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dirk Heilig,1.726248027126092,3.282132985301826,2.7799718631987322,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,I'm searching for a tool to generate 2D PDF of one side of my model,\"I've created a model in OpenSCAD, mainly some cubes (not really cubes, but lengthy braces using cube()) and cylinders with cylindrical holes in them, to hold several PCBs.\n\nThe barrels will accept a 3 mm PCB standoff, which will then hold the PCB.\n\nI would like to print the top view in the exact measurements on paper, to check for alignment before printing the bracing on my 3D printer.\n\nThe tool I'm searching for should be able to generate a drawing of all edges seen from one side, like a technical drawing.\n\nI've used FreeCAD and OpenSCAD for now, but any tool running on Ubuntu should be fine.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"OpenSCAD has a great feature called projection which allows you to select a vertical location and effectively \"\"cast a shadow\"\" of the part. The projection becomes a 2D object scaled to the original model.\n\nOne can rotate, translate or otherwise transform the model prior to performing the projection function, in order to get the appropriate 2D drawing.\n\nThe resulting \"\"model\"\" is rendered using F6 and can be output as .DXF or .SVG as well as a number of other formats that might not be as useful to you.\n\nEDIT: I've been recently using Onshape to create drawings from 3D models. It's also a free program, browser based which allows you to import your STL model (or other acceptable formats). Once imported, a drawing can be created with three-view and isometric, or you can edit to create only a single view. This can then be exported/downloaded as a PDF.\n\nThe screen capture image below is from a project I've recently created. The original STL file was imported and the result is quite clean.\n\n\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n3550,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Vellocet,1.0891412423578797,4.346405727800191,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,What is a w/t ratio?,\"I have seen a few guides mentioning w/t ratio but I can't find anything which defines it. \n\nI am using Simplify3D with a Wanhao i3.\n\",Greenonline,\"It appears to refer to calibration factor called Width over Thickness. \n\nFrom Calibrate your 3D printer to print parts to fit\n\n\n Here is the list of necessary variables for this calibration to work,\n \n \n Carve/Extra Decimal Places (float) : change to 5\n Carve/Edge Width over Height (ratio) : nozzle diameter/layer height\n Inset/Infill Width over Thickness (ratio) : nozzle diameter/layer height (initially)\n Dimension/Filament Packing Density (ratio) : needs calibration (equivalent to the reciprocal of the extrusion multiplier in Slic3r)\n Scale/XY Plane Scale (ratio) : needs calibration\n \n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3552,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tomáš Zato - Reinstate Monica,1.0891412423578797,5.56059706419464,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,\"Prusa's P.I.N.D.A. XYZ axes calibration fails with generic message \"\"Consult the manual\"\"\",\"I have just built a Prusa i3 MK2 printer. One of its features is automatic XYZ axes calibration done using inductive probe which is located next to the nozzle.\n\nIn my case, this calibration procedure failed with the message: \n\n\n XYZ calibration failed. Please consult the manual.\n\n\nThe manual on this problem reads:\n\n\n \n XYZ calibration failed. Bed calibration point was not found.\n Calibration routine did not find a bed sensor point. The printer stops close to the bed\n point, which it failed to detect. Please verify, that the printer is assembled correctly,\n that all axes move freely, the pulleys do not slip and the print nozzle is clean. If\n everything looks good, re-run the X/Y calibration and verify with a sheet of paper\n between the nozzle and the print bed that the print nozzle does not touch the print\n bed during the calibration routine. If you feel a friction of the nozzle against the sheet\n of paper and the nozzle is clean, you need to screw the PINDA probe slightly lower\n and re-run the X/Y calibration.\n XYZ calibration failed. Please consult the manual.\n The calibration points were found in positions far from what should be expected for a\n properly assembled printer. Please follow the instructions of case 1).\n \n\n\nMy nozzle is new, therefore clean and I have already checked that all axes move without any problems. The manual does not seem to offer any additional advice.\n\nI tried to put the PINDA probe lower. It had helped the calibration, but at the same time the probe was lower than the nozzle, which means I couldn't print with it being on the extruder.\n\nWhat else can I check? How to find the issue? This is my first printer, so I'm totally clueless.\n\",Bill Waggoner,\"I suggest that you ask on shop.prusa3d.com and click the Forum tab button. The folks there are very friendly and knowledgable. I'm sure you can get some help. You can also email support.\n\nThere is also a question form at the bottom of www.prusa3d.com where you can ask questions.\n\nI'm sure you can get it going. I have a MK2 also and it has done very well by me!\n\",0.0,0.0\n3552,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tomáš Zato - Reinstate Monica,1.0891412423578797,5.56059706419464,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,\"Prusa's P.I.N.D.A. XYZ axes calibration fails with generic message \"\"Consult the manual\"\"\",\"I have just built a Prusa i3 MK2 printer. One of its features is automatic XYZ axes calibration done using inductive probe which is located next to the nozzle.\n\nIn my case, this calibration procedure failed with the message: \n\n\n XYZ calibration failed. Please consult the manual.\n\n\nThe manual on this problem reads:\n\n\n \n XYZ calibration failed. Bed calibration point was not found.\n Calibration routine did not find a bed sensor point. The printer stops close to the bed\n point, which it failed to detect. Please verify, that the printer is assembled correctly,\n that all axes move freely, the pulleys do not slip and the print nozzle is clean. If\n everything looks good, re-run the X/Y calibration and verify with a sheet of paper\n between the nozzle and the print bed that the print nozzle does not touch the print\n bed during the calibration routine. If you feel a friction of the nozzle against the sheet\n of paper and the nozzle is clean, you need to screw the PINDA probe slightly lower\n and re-run the X/Y calibration.\n XYZ calibration failed. Please consult the manual.\n The calibration points were found in positions far from what should be expected for a\n properly assembled printer. Please follow the instructions of case 1).\n \n\n\nMy nozzle is new, therefore clean and I have already checked that all axes move without any problems. The manual does not seem to offer any additional advice.\n\nI tried to put the PINDA probe lower. It had helped the calibration, but at the same time the probe was lower than the nozzle, which means I couldn't print with it being on the extruder.\n\nWhat else can I check? How to find the issue? This is my first printer, so I'm totally clueless.\n\",Tomáš Zato - Reinstate Monica,\"One thing, and the one that eventually solved my problem, is to update the firmware. Firmware update instructions: Upgrading firmware - Prusa3D\n\nThe only thing you might get stuck on is selecting the right COM port.\n\n\nGo to the device manager (run devmgmt.msc)\n \nIn COM and LPT section, you should see port for your printer by name. Select that port number in the firmware update tool.\n\n\nIn my case, I had to run the calibration twice before it worked. I had no problems since then.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n3566,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tomáš Zato - Reinstate Monica,2.1782824847157594,3.2230983134145625,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,\"Slic3er throws \"\"AMF parsing requires XML::SAX\"\"\",\"When I try to open prepared .amf plate with some items to print, Prusa's Slic3er release throw's this error:\n\n\n\nThe slicer version is 1.30 distributed for Prusa's i3 MK2 1.75 printer.\n\",cmm,\"The slic3r software is written in Perl, a programming language that can be expanded with local libraries. XML::SAX is one such library. CPAN is a tool which can be used to retrieve libraries from the CPAN repository (Comprehensive Perl Archive Network, I believe).\n\nI use CPAN is something I do infrequently, so I would be doing a disservice by trying to list the steps here. Better answers are, no doubt, on stackexchange. Nevertheless, these may help:\n\nFrom your command line, start Perl running the CPAN module, and invoke the CPAN shell (your input in bold):\n\n> perl -MCPAN -e shell\ncpan> install XML::SAX\ncpan> ... several lines of output ...\nDone!\nXML::SAX is up to date (0.99).\ncpan> quit\n>\n\nWith that done, try using slic3r again.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3568,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tomáš Zato - Reinstate Monica,3.267423727073639,4.870858041653847,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,What causes gaps in small region fills and how to prevent them?,\"I saw this cool Nuka-Cola bottle opener. I made it:\n\n \n\nAs you can see, nasty gaps have appeared in the text. What could've caused them? I am sure I set the filament diameter correctly. So why did the Slic3er not generate enough paths here to fill the letters properly?\n\nI used Slic3er and Repetier Host. My printer is Prusa i3 MK2 1.75mm. The material I used was PLA.\n\",StarWind0,\"The proper term here is Under Extrusion.\n\nThere are a lot of reasons this can happen. For my Ultimaker, over time it developed very bad underextrusion due to the build up of carbon. I had to do atomic pulls / increase the extrusion multiplier. \n\nI would ...\n\n\nverify that you move exactly the amount of plastic you think you are. Mark 200mm of material. Extrude 100. Fix the firmware steps per mm for Extruder if incorrect. \ntriple check the filament measurements. Try all along the length. See if the plastic has bad variance.\nVerify that it is not printing as expected. Is your slicer generating the gaps? Letters are hard for slicing programs. If it cannot print a full line, it often will print a gap. You can adjust this by allowing greater line overlaps. This is probably what is happening.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3568,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tomáš Zato - Reinstate Monica,3.267423727073639,4.870858041653847,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,What causes gaps in small region fills and how to prevent them?,\"I saw this cool Nuka-Cola bottle opener. I made it:\n\n \n\nAs you can see, nasty gaps have appeared in the text. What could've caused them? I am sure I set the filament diameter correctly. So why did the Slic3er not generate enough paths here to fill the letters properly?\n\nI used Slic3er and Repetier Host. My printer is Prusa i3 MK2 1.75mm. The material I used was PLA.\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"If you look closely at the slicer output, you will probably see that these regions just have outer shells, and no infill. What is happening here is that the part thickness is between 2 and 3 nozzle widths (or possibly between 4 and 5). If you ask for a 1 mm thickness, but only have a 0.4 mm nozzle, it is not easy for the slicer to split this into 2.5 passes.\n\nOne thing I found would sometimes help is to change the nozzle width setting in the slicer (to maybe 0.39 mm) and this sometimes helps (at the expense of needing to offset the extrusion rate to compensate).\n\nHere are some rectangles of width 0.3 mm to 1.2 mm (increments of 0.1 mm) sliced in Cura 2.31. The first is 'normal', with wall count set to 2. Next is an inaccurate (small) nozzle setting of 0.38 mm, and finally the correct 0.4 mm nozzle, wall thickness of 1. The last setting shows infill (in yellow) rather than an inner wall (green).\n\n\nNormal has a gap in anything over 0.8 mm wide.\n\n\n\nIf I reduce the nozzle width, I do get some inner walls, but only where there was already space for 2 walls.\n\n\n\nWhen I only request one wall, the rest infill, (even though I have 20% infill), then the result is as expected. This seems to be a bug in Cura (or at least something which is improved in the version currently in beta).\n\nThere is a bit more detail in this question Missing top layers in Cura\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3569,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tomáš Zato - Reinstate Monica,3.618048892289167,4.5925336056192245,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Turning off heatbed for the last few layers. Good idea or not?,\"My heatbed won't let go off the prints until it considerably cools down. The cooling process takes decent amount of time.\n\nI was considering putting the M140 S0 (sets heatbed temp to 0) somewhere near the end of the printing process, so that when the printing is done the cooling is already in process.\n\nIs that a bad idea? I am asking because if it was 100% perfect idea, slicer would probably do it already.\n\",beeudoublez,\"It's not a bad idea, and you should try it. But only on prints with some height, because:\n\nThe goal of the heated bed is to ensure adhesion for the first few layers. Without the heat on the bottom side of the layer, the layers above will pull those layers with it as they cool, causing the warp that you see. When your bed is warmer than the layers above, those first layers stay with the warmth. This continues as the layers above are pulled into adhering to the bottom layer instead of going rogue.\n\nPrint some objects that are taller than 10 layers, and see. When you succeed, get scientific and dial down the amount of layers until you see warp. Then you'll know which object height you can employ this.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n3579,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tomáš Zato - Reinstate Monica,1.726248027126092,4.209336507479682,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,What kind of colors should I use to paint my PLA prints?,\"I'd like to paint my prints, which I printed using white PLA, with some colors. I have no idea what type of paint should stick to PLA well. I need paint that will not be soluble in water and will stick good enough.\n\nWhat kinds of paints do people use to paint PLA prints?\n\",Mikhail Z,\"Fortunately, PLA accepts many types of paints, most common of them is acrylic paint.\nAcrylic is water-soluble until it dries, then it becomes water-resistant.\n\nDepending on the goal you plan to achieve, different types of paints can be used - oil paint, already mentioned acrylic, enamels or lacquers.\n\nKeeping in mind that manufacturers may present different types of plastic under the same 'PLA' brand, it is always good idea to try selected type of paint on a print sample to ensure that it sticks well enough and not melts the print too much at the same time.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3587,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tomáš Zato - Reinstate Monica,3.0576060275493275,5.092675101858983,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,Is Tetrahydrofuran viable for dissolving PLA and sticking PLA objects together?,\"According to Wikipedia, Tetrahydrofuran dissolves PLA. It also apparently dissolves PET.\n\n\n THF is considered a relatively nontoxic solvent, with the median lethal dose (LD50) comparable to that for acetone.\n\n\nWikipedia further states that it's not particularly dangerous provided you keep it away from air circulation, so that it does not form peroxides.\n\n\n One danger posed by THF follows from its tendency to form highly explosive peroxides on storage in air.\n\n\nSo well, this seems acceptable compared to other possible solvents which are all ridiculously dangerous. The question at hand is now of practical nature:\n\n\nIs Tetrahudrofuran actually viable replacement for acetone, which only works with ABS?\n\n\nI am asking because the fact that it does dissolve PLA does not really at all mean that it will work well. It could damage PLA structure, be more toxic than wikipedia says or not dry well.\n\",Jack Abadie,\"From what I have read, THF is not super effective, it seems that Dichloromethane or DCM is actually a better solvent. Unfortunately I have no personal experience with either. \n\nIt is rather nasty though, as the LD50 is just 0.5 to 5 g/kg[1][2].\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3587,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tomáš Zato - Reinstate Monica,3.0576060275493275,5.092675101858983,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,Is Tetrahydrofuran viable for dissolving PLA and sticking PLA objects together?,\"According to Wikipedia, Tetrahydrofuran dissolves PLA. It also apparently dissolves PET.\n\n\n THF is considered a relatively nontoxic solvent, with the median lethal dose (LD50) comparable to that for acetone.\n\n\nWikipedia further states that it's not particularly dangerous provided you keep it away from air circulation, so that it does not form peroxides.\n\n\n One danger posed by THF follows from its tendency to form highly explosive peroxides on storage in air.\n\n\nSo well, this seems acceptable compared to other possible solvents which are all ridiculously dangerous. The question at hand is now of practical nature:\n\n\nIs Tetrahudrofuran actually viable replacement for acetone, which only works with ABS?\n\n\nI am asking because the fact that it does dissolve PLA does not really at all mean that it will work well. It could damage PLA structure, be more toxic than wikipedia says or not dry well.\n\",Trish,\"According to Shuichi Sato, Daiki Gondo, Takayuki Wada, Shinji Kanehashi & Kazukiyo Nagai: Effects of various liquid organic solvents on solvent‐induced crystallization of amorphous poly(lactic acid) film in Journal of Applied Polymer Science, Volume 129 Issue 3 (2013), p1607-1617source, Tetrahydrofuran is classified as a solvent for PLA. The specific entry on page 1608:\n\nGroup Solvent Solvent type dd dp dh dt Result\nEther Tetrahydrofuran Polar aprotic 16.8 5.7 8 19.4 soluble\n\n\nThe values dd dp dh and dt are explained on page 1607:\n\n\n The effects of 60 liquid organic solvents on PLA are systematically\n investigated using the Hansen solubility parameter (HSP). The HSP\n is one of the digitizing methods for analyzing the interaction\n between polymer materials and organic solvents. In HSP analysis,\n all solvents have three parameters: energy from dispersion bonds\n between molecules (dd), dipolar intermolecular force between molecules\n (dp), and the hydrogen bonds between molecules (dh). All solvents\n were characterized by a point in a three-dimensional structure\n at which dd, dp, and dh are plotted on three mutually perpendicular\n axes. Generally, if the HSP values of the various organic solvents\n are near that of the given polymer, the solvent is considered compatible\n with the polymer material.\n\n\nThe factor dt is the total Hansen solubility parameter - the bigger this is, the better it is a solvent.\n\n19.4 is a rather good solvent but extremely explosive: in air 20000 ppm (2%) are explosive and thus the allowable concentration in an area is 2000 ppmsource\n\nAlternatives\n\nA similar potent solvent would be Benzene (dt = 18.6) which more easily available and less explosive, but more deadly (10000-20000 ppm fumes) and has an allowable concentration of 500 ppmsource\n\nEthyl-acetate is also a solvent (dt = 18.2) and more available. It is explosive at an equal concentration as Tetrahydrofuransource, but it has just about half of its vapor pressure (73 mmHgsource vs. 132 mmHgsource), so can be stored more safely, and is less aggressive on the body. It is sometimes used to Smooth PLA via vapor chambersource, and only comes at a price tag of ca. 90 €/l for the pure stuff and also is used in some nail polish removers, put into a safe mix.\n\nAcetone is classified as a better solvent (dt = 20.1), and it is known to act as a glue and to soften PLA with some exposure time, but from experience, it can't smooth it. It is available most easy (nail polish remover and in the home depot), and is the least deadly option.\n\nPropylene-1,2-carbonate is classed as solvent and a far better at it with dt = 27.2. It has been used as an alternative to Ethyl-Acetatesource and its MSDS is rather gentlesource. It comes at a price tag of 130 €/l for the chemical-grade liquid.\n\nConclusion\n\nTetrahydrofuran is not a viable replacement due to its explosive properties. It is not an improvement above Benzene, which at least can be stored safely.\n\nUsing Acetone as a benchmark, Tetrahydrofuran should not smooth the surface in a vapor chamber, as it is a worse solvent than Acetone. It should also take longer to soften and dissolve objects than Acetone, but a heated bath or coating the surface with it could help to generate the needed exposure times. \n\nHowever, its comparable ethyl-acetate has been claimed to be used as a cleaning, vapor smoothing, and brush on surface smoothing agent successfully and can be used better by helping the solubility via heating, which can be done much safer with ethyl-acetate than THF. In a proper chemical mix, its storage problem can be solved too.\n\nA better alternative is propylene-1,2-carbonate, which is a better solvent, and much less dangerous.\n\ntl;dr: No, Tetrahydrofuran is not able to dissolve PLA in a reasonable time1 without heat activation and it has worse characteristics than Acetone. It could arguably be used to weld parts, but Dichloromethane would be more effective.\n\n\n\n1 - Sato, Gondo et al. in the aforementioned paper: Solubility tests were performed for 24 h at 35+-1 °C. which means we have a prolonged exposure of a thin film to a huge amount of solvent. how thin a film? Very thin: The PLA films\nwere prepared by casting 2 wt % dichloromethane solution onto a\nflat-bottomed glass Petri dish in a glass bell-type vessel and by drying\nunder atmospheric pressure at room temperature. Each solvent\nwas allowed to evaporate for 48 h. The dried PLA films were then\nthermally treated under a vacuum for 48 h at 70 °C to eliminate\nthe residual solvent and to obtain amorphous PLA films. Afterwards,\nthe thermally treated PLA films were cooled at room temperature\nunder atmospheric pressure.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3598,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tomáš Zato - Reinstate Monica,3.267423727073639,4.765453227837814,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.880918201452841,Can I really throw failed PLA prints on compost?,\"So they say PLA is biodegradable. But I still don't know how much biodegradable.\n\nI live in a flat and we have composting trash can in the courtyard. However if I throw PLA in there and it does not decompose, neighbors are gonna be pissed since many of them are intending to use the soil for their balcony flowers.\n\nSo can I really compost PLA, or does \"\"biodegradable\"\" just mean it falls apart eventually, eg. in years? And if it decomposes, is it safe to use for plants?\n\",Dampmaskin,\"PLA products will take up to 6 months to degrade in commercial composting facility. In home composting facility, it may take longer time.\n\nSource: http://www.biogreenchoice.com/category_s/1866.htm\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3598,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tomáš Zato - Reinstate Monica,3.267423727073639,4.765453227837814,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.880918201452841,Can I really throw failed PLA prints on compost?,\"So they say PLA is biodegradable. But I still don't know how much biodegradable.\n\nI live in a flat and we have composting trash can in the courtyard. However if I throw PLA in there and it does not decompose, neighbors are gonna be pissed since many of them are intending to use the soil for their balcony flowers.\n\nSo can I really compost PLA, or does \"\"biodegradable\"\" just mean it falls apart eventually, eg. in years? And if it decomposes, is it safe to use for plants?\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"This question has been asked on just about every forum out there. Here's one example from filabot.com .\n\n\n The reality however, is that this process will take several hundred\n years in a typical landfill. To biodegrade, PLA requires a laundry\n list of conditions to effectively break down. Specifically - oxygen, a\n temperature of 140+ degrees *[Fahrenheit -- ed note] *, and a 2/3 cocktail of organic substrate.\n Collectively, these are absent in any scenario outside of industrial\n composting facilities.\n\n\nI found similar comments -- tho' with perhaps slightly lower temperatures elsewhere. \n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n3554,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,gpson,3.267423727073639,5.857529251508941,0.0,5.646830619998737,3.320478682445624,1.7550683581421125,3D printing problem: waved walls,\"The problem\n\nWhen I print with my mElephant 3D printer from Makeblock, the prints come out with waved walls like in the picture below. I am using PLA filament from https://makeblock.lt\n\n\n\nWhat I tried\n\nI tried changing temperatures 190-220, tried to change the flow rate. Also checked if the bolts are not lose. Everything seems good.\n\nMy printer\n\n\n\",tjb1,\"Repeating patterns like that usually stem from issues in the Z axis. This is likely caused by bent screws which in turn cause the X axis to move around. Are the top of the threaded rods constrained? If they are, an easy fix may just be to let the top of the threaded rods float around by removing the constraint. Most Prusa i3's use 5mm threaded rod for the screws and 8mm smooth rod, does your printer use the same setup?\n\nIf your printer has 8mm (or 5/16\"\") threaded rod you could try to get some that are straight or the better solution would be to get the 5mm threaded rods and just print adapters to hold the 5mm nut inside the trap. This would require new couplers (aluminum or rubber/plastic hose), 5mm threaded rods, nuts, adapters (printed) and a small change to the firmware. This works because the 5mm rod is more flexible than the 8mm smooth rod and less likely to force the carriage around.\n\nIf you already have the 5mm threaded rod/8mm smooth rod then I would look to make sure your X axis is tight and does not move around on the Z axis smooth rods. \n\nThis would be easier to point out if you include a picture of your printer.\n\nEdit:\n\nIf your printer is the mElephant from Makeblock then I would try removing the bearings at the top that constrain the threaded rods and try the print again.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3554,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,gpson,3.267423727073639,5.857529251508941,0.0,5.646830619998737,3.320478682445624,1.7550683581421125,3D printing problem: waved walls,\"The problem\n\nWhen I print with my mElephant 3D printer from Makeblock, the prints come out with waved walls like in the picture below. I am using PLA filament from https://makeblock.lt\n\n\n\nWhat I tried\n\nI tried changing temperatures 190-220, tried to change the flow rate. Also checked if the bolts are not lose. Everything seems good.\n\nMy printer\n\n\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"I have the same problem with a home made mini extruder. This happens only if the bearing stops rotating together with the extruder gear.\n\nI notice that:\n\n\nThe gear collects burrs of PLA while feeding, so reducing the traction to feed the PLA\nThe bearing stops rotating when the pressure is too high or too low.\nThe heat of chamber is too high and starts to smooth the PLA before arrives to the nozzle and needs to regulate the speed of the fan. This creates less force on feeding.\nThe PLA has a mixture of ABS\nPLA has part hardened due overcooking, extremely dry, etc.\nThe PLA have irregular diameters, for example is nominally 1.75mm but some sections vary 1.8mm or 1.9mm\nThe nozzle starts to get cold due direct fan air flow. (maybe your main problem)\n\n\n:) I've been a Quality Engineer for 20 years for plastic and metal processes, so I've had to analyze why I've had lots of problems, especially in cold weather.\n\nI was thinking on buying a new extruder like you have, but if you have the same problem I do, the Extruder is not the problem. You need to check the points I described above.\n\nThis is the extruder I have, http://aprendiendo.laconeccion.com/mini-extrusor-3dp.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3557,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Agent Zebra,2.528907649931287,4.409132006173985,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,How do you 3d print from an existing part when you have no CAD drawings?,\"We have a toy with some broken parts, an Executivity Gear Master. I don't think it's made anymore. Some tiny parts were easy to break and we'd like to 3d print some replacement parts. We don't have CAD or any other 3D drawings file, just a few of the unbroken parts. What's the best way to get some of these printed? Do I have to turn this into a 3D file first? (Is there a quick way to do that from the part itself?) Or is there a way to do it where I just need the part, rather like getting a spare key cut from a pre-existing key being used as the template?\n\nHere's a photo of the part I need to print. Placed next to a quarter for size comparison:\n\n \n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Unfortunately, There's no easy way to go about this. The easiest solution is to model the part from scratch. A pair of (digital) calipers is an invaluable tool for doing that.\n\nGiven that the part is rather small and (presumably) needs to fit with something, you need very precise measurements. 3D scanning or photogrammetry (reconstructing the models from 2D photographs) are not suitable for this, as they generally result in a model that needs clean up and can't be printed directly (which would be more work than modelling from scratch) and moreover the dimensions won't be accurate enough.\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n3557,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Agent Zebra,2.528907649931287,4.409132006173985,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,How do you 3d print from an existing part when you have no CAD drawings?,\"We have a toy with some broken parts, an Executivity Gear Master. I don't think it's made anymore. Some tiny parts were easy to break and we'd like to 3d print some replacement parts. We don't have CAD or any other 3D drawings file, just a few of the unbroken parts. What's the best way to get some of these printed? Do I have to turn this into a 3D file first? (Is there a quick way to do that from the part itself?) Or is there a way to do it where I just need the part, rather like getting a spare key cut from a pre-existing key being used as the template?\n\nHere's a photo of the part I need to print. Placed next to a quarter for size comparison:\n\n \n\",Sean Houlihane,\"You can't print without a 3D model first. There are various ways you can go about this (or pay someone to do the same for you, ignoring any IP issues).\n\nIt is possible to generate a 3D model from a sequence of 2D photographs (there is even software which will allow you to do this freehand on a phone). Equipment exists which is specifically designed for this process, and you have likely heard of the services which allow you to get a 3D print of your own body.\n\nYou can take a 2D photo and import this into a 3D drawing package. Copy the features into a mesh, and extrude it. This might be a good approach for a complex shape, particularly if appearance is more important than precision.\n\nFor the shape you show here, the simplest approach for anyone with modeling experience is maybe to just draw it from scratch (with a few key dimensions). Your shape is only made up of a handful of primitive shapes.\n\nExperiment in TinkerCad which is an online 3D editor to see if you can handle this yourself. It's not clear if you have your own printer, but this sort of part should cost less than $1 to print.\n\nStrength might be a problem if they are already breaking...\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n3564,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Fandom_Lover,2.1782824847157594,5.370300239688461,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Snapping to Ground - 123D Design,\"It's my first encounter with 123D Design, and first time playing around STL/3D printing in general. I can't find much information about the grid. But I noticed, while trying to move it, you can actually raise it from the grid. Does this affect how it will be printed? Does the print have to be snapped to the ground for it to print properly? Or is the grid relative, used for approximation? \n\n\n\",Randy Steck,\"The position matters a lot if you use the default STL file without doing anything in the slicer. I've used 123D extensively and when I've inadvertently left a gap between the part and bed (and not snapped it to the bed in the slicer), the printer tries to print in mid air. Use \"\"d\"\" to \"\"drop\"\" the object to the grid. Different slicers have similar commands that will attach a face to the bed. I use Simplify3D.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n3577,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,andreas,2.1782824847157594,5.022572731335908,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Easy way to create honey comb filling for a generic printer/onshape,\"This is my second 3D model, be forgiving... ;)\n\nI have constructed a 3D model with some bigger solid parts with FreeCAD. After uploading it to shapeways, it turned out to be too expensive to be printed like that. \n\nGoogling around, gave me the solution to make it hollow and use a support structure. If you know which exact printer model is doing the print, Slic3r can do the job. But as I want to print with shapeways, I just know the material, and they are doing the slicing. Obviously without creating support structures in solid parts. Hence, this way does not work in my situation.\n\nSearching for an other solution, I found this article, FreeCAD: Perforated Sheets and HoneyComb, describing how to create a honeycomb structure by a little piece of code. I would have to make my part hollow by subtracting a shrunk version of the model and fill it with the honeycomb structure. This sounds feasible to me, but is quiet a certain effort.\n\nIs there an smarter solution to achieve a hollow piece with support structure?\n\",Diesel,\"If you want to have a specific infill density, you can design the infill yourself as part of the solid model. (Note I use these two methods to design parts for strength, but it's basically the same thing that you're looking at doing)\n\nI have two methods for doing this as follows (I use Solidworks, but the features exist with most CAD software)\n\nMethod 1\n\nStep 1\n\nDesign the part for the geometry that you'd like as you usually would. (check the volume of the part)\n\nStep 2\n\nHollow out your part and set your wall thickness to the desired dimension. In solidworks, you can use the shell command for this. (check the new volume of your part)\n\nStep 3\n\nCreate a pattern for the print orientation you want and make the thickness of the pattern set to a variable you can easily change. For example if you want a hex pattern, then create a hex pattern that covers the footprint of your part.\n\nStep 4\n\nExtrude your pattern from the bottom surface to the upper surface.\n(depending on how complex your part is you may have to iterate between steps 3 and 4 to fill the part completely, but that's half the fun).\n\nStep 5\n\nClose the part off. The Shell feature hollows out a part, and removes most of one flat surface. You just need to go back in and close this surface off again once you're done, generally with a single extrude.(check the volume of your part again)\n\nStep 6\n\nNow you can compare the volumes of your part, this may require you to change the thickness of the hex pattern, and may require several iterations to get an exact density that you want. \n\nThis process wont necessarily work for every part you come up with but it's a good start for fairly blocky parts. It's also relatively quick and easy to do.\n\nThe second way is as follows\n\nMethod 2\n\nStep 1:\nCreate your part as usual and save as a unique file (lets call it \"\"Solid file\"\")\n\nStep 2:\n\nCreate hollow the part out and save as a unique file (lets call it \"\"shell file\"\")\n\nStep 3:\n\nCreate a new part that is your hex pattern, but instead of modelling the walls that will be in your final part, create the hex voids as a solid. Save this as a separate unique file ( lets call it \"\"Void profile\"\")\n\nStep 4:\n\nCreate a new part and import both the \"\"Void Profile\"\" and the \"\"Solid File\"\".\n\nStep 5\n\nSubtract the \"\"Void Profile\"\" from the \"\"Solid File\"\"\n\nStep 6\n\nImport the \"\"Shell file\"\" and merge it with the result of step 5\n\nThis process I like a bit more, but it takes longer, creates more files and is a bit messier I think. However it gives you a lot more control over how your voids will work and you can delete sections of the voids if you want different parts to be more solid that others.\n\nIf you're using solidworks shell model and you have very tight features sometimes it gives you errors, and you may need to suppress small features and then add them back in after all of this. Just a heads up, it can be a bit of a flaky feature to use sometimes.\n\nNow that you have your 'designed' internal structure don't forget to print at 100% infill, otherwise a slicer program may hollow out your designed infill pattern. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3582,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,JohnDizzle,2.8153892694839717,4.162536107399809,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Where to find z coordinate in G-code for delta printer,\"I´m currently writing my own firmware for a custom delta printer. Therefore I also need to read G-code from programs like Slic3r. Even with an small example like an cube I´m struggling to find out where the z-coordinate is hidden in the code. Here is a small example of the code.\n\n; generated by Slic3r 1.2.9 on 2017-02-13 at 15:08:01\n\n; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.50mm\n; perimeters extrusion width = 0.58mm\n; infill extrusion width = 0.58mm\n; solid infill extrusion width = 0.58mm\n; top infill extrusion width = 0.58mm\n\nM107\nM104 S205 ; set temperature\nG28 ; home all axes\nG1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle\n\nM109 S205 ; wait for temperature to be reached\nG21 ; set units to millimeters\nG90 ; use absolute coordinates\nM82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion\nG92 E0\nG1 Z0.500 F7800.000\nG1 E-2.00000 F2400.00000\nG92 E0\nG1 X-31.893 Y0.000 F7800.000\nG1 E2.00000 F2400.00000\nG1 X-31.893 Y-25.001 E3.57871 F1800.000\nG1 X-31.496 Y-27.307 E3.72646\nG1 X-30.350 Y-29.347 E3.87420\nG1 X-28.588 Y-30.886 E4.02194\nG1 X-26.413 Y-31.748 E4.16968\nG1 X-25.000 Y-31.894 E4.25936\nG1 X25.000 Y-31.894 E7.41663\nG1 X27.306 Y-31.497 E7.56437\nG1 X29.346 Y-30.351 E7.71211 F1800.000\nG1 X30.885 Y-28.589 E7.85985\nG1 X31.746 Y-26.414 E8.00759\nG1 X31.893 Y-25.001 E8.09727\nG1 X31.893 Y25.001 E11.25470\nG1 X31.496 Y27.307 E11.40244\nG1 X30.350 Y29.347 E11.55019\nG1 X28.588 Y30.886 E11.69793\nG1 X26.413 Y31.748 E11.84567\nG1 X25.000 Y31.894 E11.93535\nG1 X-25.000 Y31.894 E15.09262\nG1 X-27.306 Y31.497 E15.24036\nG1 X-29.346 Y30.351 E15.38810\nG1 X-30.885 Y28.589 E15.53584\nG1 X-31.746 Y26.414 E15.68358\nG1 X-31.893 Y25.001 E15.77326\nG1 X-31.893 Y0.075 E17.34724\nG1 E15.34724 F2400.00000\nG92 E0\nG1 X-22.715 Y-22.716 F7800.000\nG1 E2.00000 F2400.00000\nG1 X22.715 Y-22.716 E4.86865 F1800.000\nG1 X22.715 Y22.716 E7.73745\nG1 X-22.715 Y22.716 E10.60609\nG1 X-22.715 Y-22.641 E13.47016\nG1 X-23.607 Y-23.609 F7800.000\nG1 X23.607 Y-23.609 E16.45155 F1800.000\nG1 X23.607 Y23.608 E19.43309\nG1 X-23.607 Y23.608 E22.41447\nG1 X-23.607 Y-23.534 E25.39128\nG1 X-24.500 Y-24.501 F7800.000\nG1 X24.500 Y-24.501 E28.48541 F1800.000\nG1 X24.500 Y24.501 E31.57969\nG1 X-24.500 Y24.501 E34.67382\nG1 X-24.500 Y-24.426 E37.76336\n\n\nHere some configuration details:\nG-code flavor: RepRap\nNozzle diameter: 0,5mm \n\nfilament\ndiameter: 3mm \n\ngeneral:\nlayer height: 0,4 mm\nperimeters: 3\nsolid layers top:3 bottom :3 \n\nHere is the full G-code\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"It isn't hidden at all. It's just that the Z-axis position only changes with each layer change, so the Z coordinate is only passed at layer change. On line 17 of your example G-code, it starts the first layer at Z=0.5mm:\n\nG1 Z0.500 F7800.000\n\n\nThe next time you should expect Z to appear is on the next layer.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n3582,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,JohnDizzle,2.8153892694839717,4.162536107399809,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Where to find z coordinate in G-code for delta printer,\"I´m currently writing my own firmware for a custom delta printer. Therefore I also need to read G-code from programs like Slic3r. Even with an small example like an cube I´m struggling to find out where the z-coordinate is hidden in the code. Here is a small example of the code.\n\n; generated by Slic3r 1.2.9 on 2017-02-13 at 15:08:01\n\n; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.50mm\n; perimeters extrusion width = 0.58mm\n; infill extrusion width = 0.58mm\n; solid infill extrusion width = 0.58mm\n; top infill extrusion width = 0.58mm\n\nM107\nM104 S205 ; set temperature\nG28 ; home all axes\nG1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle\n\nM109 S205 ; wait for temperature to be reached\nG21 ; set units to millimeters\nG90 ; use absolute coordinates\nM82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion\nG92 E0\nG1 Z0.500 F7800.000\nG1 E-2.00000 F2400.00000\nG92 E0\nG1 X-31.893 Y0.000 F7800.000\nG1 E2.00000 F2400.00000\nG1 X-31.893 Y-25.001 E3.57871 F1800.000\nG1 X-31.496 Y-27.307 E3.72646\nG1 X-30.350 Y-29.347 E3.87420\nG1 X-28.588 Y-30.886 E4.02194\nG1 X-26.413 Y-31.748 E4.16968\nG1 X-25.000 Y-31.894 E4.25936\nG1 X25.000 Y-31.894 E7.41663\nG1 X27.306 Y-31.497 E7.56437\nG1 X29.346 Y-30.351 E7.71211 F1800.000\nG1 X30.885 Y-28.589 E7.85985\nG1 X31.746 Y-26.414 E8.00759\nG1 X31.893 Y-25.001 E8.09727\nG1 X31.893 Y25.001 E11.25470\nG1 X31.496 Y27.307 E11.40244\nG1 X30.350 Y29.347 E11.55019\nG1 X28.588 Y30.886 E11.69793\nG1 X26.413 Y31.748 E11.84567\nG1 X25.000 Y31.894 E11.93535\nG1 X-25.000 Y31.894 E15.09262\nG1 X-27.306 Y31.497 E15.24036\nG1 X-29.346 Y30.351 E15.38810\nG1 X-30.885 Y28.589 E15.53584\nG1 X-31.746 Y26.414 E15.68358\nG1 X-31.893 Y25.001 E15.77326\nG1 X-31.893 Y0.075 E17.34724\nG1 E15.34724 F2400.00000\nG92 E0\nG1 X-22.715 Y-22.716 F7800.000\nG1 E2.00000 F2400.00000\nG1 X22.715 Y-22.716 E4.86865 F1800.000\nG1 X22.715 Y22.716 E7.73745\nG1 X-22.715 Y22.716 E10.60609\nG1 X-22.715 Y-22.641 E13.47016\nG1 X-23.607 Y-23.609 F7800.000\nG1 X23.607 Y-23.609 E16.45155 F1800.000\nG1 X23.607 Y23.608 E19.43309\nG1 X-23.607 Y23.608 E22.41447\nG1 X-23.607 Y-23.534 E25.39128\nG1 X-24.500 Y-24.501 F7800.000\nG1 X24.500 Y-24.501 E28.48541 F1800.000\nG1 X24.500 Y24.501 E31.57969\nG1 X-24.500 Y24.501 E34.67382\nG1 X-24.500 Y-24.426 E37.76336\n\n\nHere some configuration details:\nG-code flavor: RepRap\nNozzle diameter: 0,5mm \n\nfilament\ndiameter: 3mm \n\ngeneral:\nlayer height: 0,4 mm\nperimeters: 3\nsolid layers top:3 bottom :3 \n\nHere is the full G-code\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Your included code has a line which reads:\n\nG1 Z0.500\n\n\nI checked a couple of my G-code files for some of the past prints and I was able to identify the bed movement relative to the layer being printed. My slicer (Simplify3D) provides for the bed to drop during certain movements. I found G1 Z0.600 followed by G1 Z0.850 for one of the layers. When that layer was finished the 0.600 changed to 0.900 and the 0.850 changed to 1.150.\n\nThis fit in with the model's layer height of 0.300 mm for that job.\n\nI did not find more G1 Zx.xxx codes in your sample, but a larger file would contain those lines.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4000,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,JohnDizzle,2.528907649931287,5.077249561776509,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,0.551027839747059,Nozzle moves very slowly from home to start position,\"I´m currently working on a custom delta printer running Marlin 1.0.2 firmware. To control it I´m using the Repetier Host software with the onboard Cura software to slice my objects. The printing works fine but it takes the nozzle nearly 5 minutes to move from the homing position at 250 mm to the starting position of the print near z=0. \n\nI already tried to increase the travel speed but nothing changed. Can you guys please tell me how to increase the speed of my nozzle to move down to my starting point of the print?\n\",TECTEC3 Studios,\"Try changing the travel speed in you r slicer, if that doesn't work , try changing out the motors for newer ones.\n\",-1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4000,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,JohnDizzle,2.528907649931287,5.077249561776509,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,0.551027839747059,Nozzle moves very slowly from home to start position,\"I´m currently working on a custom delta printer running Marlin 1.0.2 firmware. To control it I´m using the Repetier Host software with the onboard Cura software to slice my objects. The printing works fine but it takes the nozzle nearly 5 minutes to move from the homing position at 250 mm to the starting position of the print near z=0. \n\nI already tried to increase the travel speed but nothing changed. Can you guys please tell me how to increase the speed of my nozzle to move down to my starting point of the print?\n\",Zillo7,\"I had the same problem, and I solved it by changing the Z-Axis Feed Rate to a much higher value (1000 mm/min.) in Repetier Host via Config -> Printer Settings -> Printer.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3591,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Alvis,2.1782824847157594,5.659288066994632,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,1.6229190288168605,I am using a stereo 3D pen. What surface should I use?,\"Using a 3D pen I printed a small box. However, I was doing it on plain paper and of course the paper didn't come off the plastic very well. It didn't matter for that specific case, but if I want to print something else, which non-sticky surface would you recommend? Is there any way to use transparent surface (so that I can put a paper with picture as a guide under it)?\n\",tjb1,\"You could use a piece of glass, that's what most people using 3D printers have as a build surface. An easy source of glass for pen use would be a picture frame but the edges are likely sharp so be careful. Acrylic would also work and is easily obtained in small pieces from places like Lowes/Home Depot, I used Acrylic for some time on my Kossel. The plastic can stick to Acrylic very well but I had no issues using it with my printer, just test it out and see what process works if you go that route.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n3591,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Alvis,2.1782824847157594,5.659288066994632,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,1.6229190288168605,I am using a stereo 3D pen. What surface should I use?,\"Using a 3D pen I printed a small box. However, I was doing it on plain paper and of course the paper didn't come off the plastic very well. It didn't matter for that specific case, but if I want to print something else, which non-sticky surface would you recommend? Is there any way to use transparent surface (so that I can put a paper with picture as a guide under it)?\n\",StarWind0,\"Someone trying to get a surface to not stick. This is a first. I would try glass first. If you still have issues, I would look into coated surface, like an old tefflon pan (do not cook with PLA residue). I would suggest oil but you might start a fire.. \n\",0.0,0.0\n3595,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dimitry M,2.8153892694839717,4.60737611737143,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Issues with OctoPi connecting to FlashForge Creator Pro via Serial Communication,\"I've recently initialized OctoPi onto my Raspberry Pi, proceeded to connect it to my local internet, and then connected it to my FlashForge Creator Pro (2014 edition)\n\nEverything seemed to be going smoothly until I tried to connect to the printer; the Pi didn't seem to be able to pick up a usable Baudrate (after being trying out all of the usable ones).\n\nFor example, when trying out 9600, I would get:\n\n\n Trying baudrate: 9600\n \n Send: N0 M110 N0*125\n \n Recv: ��r># ���& �\n\n\nWhat should I do to fix the problem?\n\n\n\nNote that I got the same types of messages back (with garbled 'special' characters) when trying using the \"\"auto connect\"\" feature.\n\",Captainju,\"I got the same problem.\nAuto-detect baud rate was not working too.\nSo I manually tried every baud-rate and finally found one working, for me it was 115200.\nGood luck!\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3596,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kendrick,2.528907649931287,4.7233963048387855,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"Printer homes to z stop-switch, but presses on heatbed during printing\",\"I have a Prusa i3 that homes properly when you use the menu. After adjusting the bed and homing several times it keeps the head at a reliable distance. However when I try to print from SD card, the printer buries hot end in the heat-bed.\n\nWhat needs to be adjusted to fix this issue?\n\ngcode from one of the 2 files\n\nM190 S50.000000\nM109 S200.000000\n;Sliced at: Mon 13-06-2016 15:39:25\n;Basic settings: Layer height: 0.2 Walls: 1.2 Fill: 20\n;Print time: 3 hours 47 minutes\n;Filament used: 11.435m 34.0g\n;Filament cost: None\n;M190 S50 ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line\n;M109 S200 ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line\nG21 ;metric values\nG90 ;absolute positioning\nM82 ;set extruder to absolute mode\nM107 ;start with the fan off\nG28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops\nG28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops\nG1 Z15.0 F3000 ;move the platform down 15mm\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length\nG1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again\nG1 F3000\n;Put printing message on LCD screen\nM117 Printing...\n\n;Layer count: 446\n;LAYER:0\nM107\n;LAYER:1\nM106 S127\nG1 F2400 E-4.50000\nG0 F3000 X81.474 Y58.603 Z0.300\n;TYPE:WALL-INNER\nG1 F2400 E0.00000\nG1 F2220 X83.063 Y56.456 E0.06663\nG1 X84.277 Y55.080 E0.11240\nG1 X84.836 Y54.444 E0.13353\nG1 X85.799 Y53.476 E0.16759\nG1 X86.755 Y52.587 E0.20015\nG1 X87.179 Y52.244 E0.21376\nG1 X88.836 Y50.911 E0.26680\nG1 X89.285 Y50.610 E0.28029\n\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"The correlation between the endstop switch -- or sensor -- and the surface of the bed is not known a priori . In your case, there are two possibilities. I'd say the more likely is that your g-code generator is not setting the Z-height offset from the bed correctly. The other is that your bed is tilted, so proper Z-home at one corner does not match the entire bed.\n\nTry this: first manually move the extruder head to all four corners and adjust the bed screws until the separation is identical at all times. Then let your gcode start up -- and don't worry if the extruder depresses the bed during homing, as that doesn't matter. See where the extruder is once the print starts. Adjust the endstop switch up or down to compensate until the print head when printing is just off the surface and the first layer adheres well. \n\nIf all that doesn't work, then you may have the wrong printer profile settings in your slicing softwqre. \n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n3596,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kendrick,2.528907649931287,4.7233963048387855,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"Printer homes to z stop-switch, but presses on heatbed during printing\",\"I have a Prusa i3 that homes properly when you use the menu. After adjusting the bed and homing several times it keeps the head at a reliable distance. However when I try to print from SD card, the printer buries hot end in the heat-bed.\n\nWhat needs to be adjusted to fix this issue?\n\ngcode from one of the 2 files\n\nM190 S50.000000\nM109 S200.000000\n;Sliced at: Mon 13-06-2016 15:39:25\n;Basic settings: Layer height: 0.2 Walls: 1.2 Fill: 20\n;Print time: 3 hours 47 minutes\n;Filament used: 11.435m 34.0g\n;Filament cost: None\n;M190 S50 ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line\n;M109 S200 ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line\nG21 ;metric values\nG90 ;absolute positioning\nM82 ;set extruder to absolute mode\nM107 ;start with the fan off\nG28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops\nG28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops\nG1 Z15.0 F3000 ;move the platform down 15mm\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length\nG1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again\nG1 F3000\n;Put printing message on LCD screen\nM117 Printing...\n\n;Layer count: 446\n;LAYER:0\nM107\n;LAYER:1\nM106 S127\nG1 F2400 E-4.50000\nG0 F3000 X81.474 Y58.603 Z0.300\n;TYPE:WALL-INNER\nG1 F2400 E0.00000\nG1 F2220 X83.063 Y56.456 E0.06663\nG1 X84.277 Y55.080 E0.11240\nG1 X84.836 Y54.444 E0.13353\nG1 X85.799 Y53.476 E0.16759\nG1 X86.755 Y52.587 E0.20015\nG1 X87.179 Y52.244 E0.21376\nG1 X88.836 Y50.911 E0.26680\nG1 X89.285 Y50.610 E0.28029\n\n\",Tomáš Zato - Reinstate Monica,\"You didn't share much details, which is problem with any question. But let me give some recommendations - I have Prusa i3 MK2 1.75mm.\n\nThe fact that it homes correctly does not at all mean that your Y axis is OK.\n\n\nVerify that PINDA probe's bottom end is maximum 1 millimeter above the extruder head.\nDouble check that PINDA probe is correctly screwed and does not wiggle.\nManually check that the printer does not allow you to toutch heatbed with extruder, follow these steps:\n\n\nWait for both heatbed and hot end to cool down.\nPut paper sheet on heatbed\nGo to Menu - Settings - Move Axis - Z Axis\nMove the axis down. If hot end toutches and presses on the paper, the calibration is not OK at all.\n\nUpdating your firmware can't hurt if you didn't do it already.\n\n\nIf this advice does not help you, please update the question to address the following questions:\n\n\nHow does your G-code beginning work? Ideally, share some short G-code, I could easily check whether it is correct with my printer.\nDoes XYZ calibration pass correctly in your printer?\nTake a picture of your extruder so that both PINDA and extruder are visible\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8166,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kendrick,1.0891412423578797,3.6528930163092497,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Print layer shifting on Alunar M508 Prusa i3 clone,\"[Edit: My specific question is firmware error or standard layer shifting. using 2 different versions of Cura were getting quite different results from the same stl file.] \n\nPer the image below with Cura 15.4 the centered print both shifted to the bottom of the print bed for the first few passes and then did not build the proper internal structure of the bracket. the top loops were then skewed to the top of the bed. The 2nd print in the corner was using Cura 3.1 and the first few passes like usual skewed off towards the bottom but it seemed to start printing normally after that. I am trying to determine if it is a hardware calibration issue or bad firmware on the printer. Any suggestions on what's going on would be appreciated. For some reason the image flipped 180° when posting. \n\nCenter part completed its print and should be about an inch or so tall. It was not even able to build the internal structure like the 2nd one had started to do. the 2nd one I stopped after about 10 min since it clearly showed different behavior. from the layer shifting links the most likely cause would be over current stepping. \n\n\n\",0scar,\"This effect is called layer shifting . Now that you know what it is called you could look at some other solutions fixing this issue; e.g. here, here or here. The answers of this question describe best what is causing this. Usually (most of all the cases) it means that your belts are not tight enough.\n\nAn edit of the question shows that the effect happens when a different version of Ultimaker Cura is being used. In such cases you need to check the speeds and acceleration settings. Too high values may lead to skipping steps causing layer shifting. Be sure it is not a mechanical issue, also note that the nozzle does not get caught up by the uneven tape on the bed. In that effect, you may want to look at this unaswered question.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3605,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jaich,5.3958195243795855,6.507469658467788,3.507933925167123,6.034324953675596,5.8037640669492365,4.0501879898578235,Will 3D Printed Dice Be Fair?,\"Is there anything to the process of 3D printing that might make the dice unfair/land on a specific side more frequently? Or will any imperfections be negligible, thus making the dice fair? I'm more concerned about making a d20 than anything else, so focus on that shape if need be.\n\n\n\nI am using a MakerBot Replicator+ with FDM, so take this into consideration if it affects your answer, and if you believe a different printing process would have an advantage over this don't hesitate to include it.\n\",Icyfire,\"It probably won't be fair.\n\nIncidentally, I have a decent amount of experience with 3D printing.\n\nIt depends heavily on the particular technology that you're using to do the 3D printing, but nearly all forms of printing aren't perfect--depending on the design you make (solid? honeycombed? hollow?), there will be slight, or not-so-slight variations across the faces, which will result in an unfair die. In particular, the faces that are parallel to the build surface will probably be different compared to the ones that are angled. \n\nYou could probably deal with some of these problems with some kind of post-processing, but honestly at that point buying dice would be easier. 3D printing is for making custom or prototype objects, and isn't really suited to mass production of simple shapes like dice.\n\nEven manufactured dice have some imperfections, and a slightly unfair die probably won't make much of a difference in gameplay, but it will be hard for you to determine whether the imperfections from 3D printing are severe enough to make the die unfair without rolling it many times and looking at its distribution. Again, at that point, it's easier to just buy the dice.\n\nThat being said, custom d20s can be super cool looking, and if you're going to 3D print something, might as well make it look cool...\n\",4.97413568786563,2.0769199823829045\n3605,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jaich,5.3958195243795855,6.507469658467788,3.507933925167123,6.034324953675596,5.8037640669492365,4.0501879898578235,Will 3D Printed Dice Be Fair?,\"Is there anything to the process of 3D printing that might make the dice unfair/land on a specific side more frequently? Or will any imperfections be negligible, thus making the dice fair? I'm more concerned about making a d20 than anything else, so focus on that shape if need be.\n\n\n\nI am using a MakerBot Replicator+ with FDM, so take this into consideration if it affects your answer, and if you believe a different printing process would have an advantage over this don't hesitate to include it.\n\",technicalbloke,\"Pretty much all die are unfair to an extent. If you are seriously concerned about accuracy then you will need to test what you produce and, if not satisfactory, modify the design reprint and retest. A simple/coarse test is to float your die in very salty water and note which face faces upwards, repeatedly perturb the die noting the upwards face. Any egregious bias should reveal itself after a handful of perturbations. Note that this test only reveals that a die has a bias, not which face it is biased to land on. It's also probably not massively accurate but should be good enough to let you gauge whether your printed die are any worse than your shop bought ones.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3613,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bjartmar,3.618048892289167,4.160971814412661,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Feasible 3D Printed Snap Connectors,\"I have Ultimaker 2+ 3D Printer and I need to print a piece that doesn't fit within the build volume of the printer. Even though it would fit I'd still need to print it in two parts because I'll need to fit some equipment inside. I could use glue to put it together, but I'll need to remove the equipment later.\n\nSo I'm trying to find some feasible solutions how to attach/snap it together. The wall thickness is currently 3mm.\n\n\n\nPlane for cutting the part.\n\n\n\nCut cross section.\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"If the equipment has to be removable, then there's no point in trying to make a one-piece object in the first place. So it looks like you have two problems. The first is to decide what's the best way to split your container to facilitate both putting the equipment inside & removing it; the second is how to latch the two together. I can't answer the first since you haven't shown us the equipment.\n\nAs to the second: there are a number of plans for spring-latching connectors (such as used with straps, backpack covers, etc) on thingiverse.com. If you have no constraints on the exterior of your container, I would just merge the latching connectors into the container wall (e.g. with meshmixer) .\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3613,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bjartmar,3.618048892289167,4.160971814412661,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Feasible 3D Printed Snap Connectors,\"I have Ultimaker 2+ 3D Printer and I need to print a piece that doesn't fit within the build volume of the printer. Even though it would fit I'd still need to print it in two parts because I'll need to fit some equipment inside. I could use glue to put it together, but I'll need to remove the equipment later.\n\nSo I'm trying to find some feasible solutions how to attach/snap it together. The wall thickness is currently 3mm.\n\n\n\nPlane for cutting the part.\n\n\n\nCut cross section.\n\",Bjartmar,\"Thanks for your reply all. I think I have a solution for my need. Here are some figures!\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nMore picture of the clip!\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n3617,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ryan Neph,2.8153892694839717,4.336783384629063,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,White PLA prints frequently have rough sidewalls near top of the print,\"This has happened a few times whenever I print with the white PLA (Hatchbox 1.75 mm). It seems that the print job produces smooth sidewalls for most of the part but at a certain point and above, the walls become rough as if the alignment is off or something. I've attached a picture to show the issue. Does anybody have any insight?\n\n\n\nI'm using a Printrbot Simple Metal and some of the print settings are listed below:\n\n\nSlicer: Slic3r\n[First] Layer height: 0.2 mm\nPerimeters: 2\nSolid Layers [top/bottom]: 3\nInfill: 25%\nFill pattern: Rectilinear\nTop/Bottom Fill pattern: Concentric\nPerimeter speed: 30 mm/s\nInfill speed: 80 mm/s\nTravel speed: 150 mm/s\nAcceleration (perimeters): 1000 mm/s2\nAcceleration (default): 3000mm/s2\nDefault extrusion width: Slic3r chosen\nPrint temperature: 220°C\n\n\nI've noticed in the Slic3r rendering that the affected area seems to be the point where the infill switches from 25% to solid as seen in the included picture. If this is the problem, is there any way to enforce solid infill a few layers below this to eliminate the awkward transition, or specify a smaller extrusion width at this point?\n\n\n\",ItamarG3,\"Slic3r has an option of\n\nSolid infill threshold area \n\n\nwhich is the area that when you pass it (and start printing smaller than it), the infill becomes solid.\n\nIf you set it to a smaller number (or 0), then your infill won't become solid and the problem will vanish.\n\nSource: Slic3r Manual - Infill Optimization \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3617,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ryan Neph,2.8153892694839717,4.336783384629063,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,White PLA prints frequently have rough sidewalls near top of the print,\"This has happened a few times whenever I print with the white PLA (Hatchbox 1.75 mm). It seems that the print job produces smooth sidewalls for most of the part but at a certain point and above, the walls become rough as if the alignment is off or something. I've attached a picture to show the issue. Does anybody have any insight?\n\n\n\nI'm using a Printrbot Simple Metal and some of the print settings are listed below:\n\n\nSlicer: Slic3r\n[First] Layer height: 0.2 mm\nPerimeters: 2\nSolid Layers [top/bottom]: 3\nInfill: 25%\nFill pattern: Rectilinear\nTop/Bottom Fill pattern: Concentric\nPerimeter speed: 30 mm/s\nInfill speed: 80 mm/s\nTravel speed: 150 mm/s\nAcceleration (perimeters): 1000 mm/s2\nAcceleration (default): 3000mm/s2\nDefault extrusion width: Slic3r chosen\nPrint temperature: 220°C\n\n\nI've noticed in the Slic3r rendering that the affected area seems to be the point where the infill switches from 25% to solid as seen in the included picture. If this is the problem, is there any way to enforce solid infill a few layers below this to eliminate the awkward transition, or specify a smaller extrusion width at this point?\n\n\n\",lz42,\"If you want to change settings on some area of your part check out modifier meshes in Slic3r.\n\nIt looks like to0 much heat is delivered when solid infill starts and some melting occurs. See 3D Printing Problems #22: Extrusion Temperature Too High. \n\nYou can try:\n\n\nLower extrusion temperature\nLower filament flow\nImprove part cooling\nLower print speed\n\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n3619,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,eaelec,2.1782824847157594,4.507430220259686,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,0.9784382375735183,Scaling objects with constant wall thickness for 3D printing,\"The question is how to scale an existing mesh without changing the thickness of the walls? \n\nI am using Blender to create STL files for 3D printing. Let's say I create a shell for a model railroad car. Since 1/87th is the most common scale I make the walls of the shell just thick enough to make it rigid in 1/87 scale. Now, if I want to print the same shell in a larger scale, say 1/48, the wall thickness will nearly double and it will waste material printing walls that are thicker than needed. If I want to print in 1/160 the printing may fail because the wall thickness falls below the minimum the printer will support. \n\nAny ideas?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Your question falls into two different categories, here at 3D Printing SE and there, at Blender SE. \n\nI would consider that your objective would best be solved using some form of parametric modeling, an aspect that is rarely embraced by Blender. Even though the limitations of Blender make life interesting for you, there may be a couple of useful features within (and without) the program.\n\nOn Blender SE, a question of similar format exists, with a somewhat open-ended answer. A quick search using The Google, with the terms \"\"Parametric Modeling with Blender\"\" results in a number of different approaches. According to a quick perusal of the search results, some of the solutions involve free plug-ins or add-ons for Blender. More complexity rather than less, perhaps.\n\nI'm familiar enough with the very simple basics of Blender to know I would not be able to make use of those answers. I'm also well aware that Blender's power extends beyond my own limitations with features supporting scripting, animation and so many other tools. Seeing the workflow diagrams/charts that make up some of the advanced portion of the program leads me to believe that one can accomplish your objective, but one must be a certified wizard with the program. \n\nAs an alternative, one could engage any one of the many parametric modeling programs available. I'm a fan of OpenSCAD, although the text/scripting interface can be daunting for some. If you've become skilled in Blender, a non-GUI format isn't necessarily the best route, although the GUI options are no less confusing, in my opinion.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3619,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,eaelec,2.1782824847157594,4.507430220259686,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,0.9784382375735183,Scaling objects with constant wall thickness for 3D printing,\"The question is how to scale an existing mesh without changing the thickness of the walls? \n\nI am using Blender to create STL files for 3D printing. Let's say I create a shell for a model railroad car. Since 1/87th is the most common scale I make the walls of the shell just thick enough to make it rigid in 1/87 scale. Now, if I want to print the same shell in a larger scale, say 1/48, the wall thickness will nearly double and it will waste material printing walls that are thicker than needed. If I want to print in 1/160 the printing may fail because the wall thickness falls below the minimum the printer will support. \n\nAny ideas?\n\",Mentors House,\"The minimum scale of your model\nThe modeling of your 3D file doesn’t necessarily require that you work with a given unit or scale. It’s particularly true with software like Blender in which you’re able to give proportion but no unit. This job will be done after the modeling phase when you send your model to a 3D printer. That’s why you need to pay extra attention to both the scale and the size of your model at that point. Creating a 3D print in millimeters instead of centimeters might very well result in a bad 3D print.\n\nA powerful example of that can be found in architectural models. This is, in fact, one of the main issues we encountered while working with La Cité de L’Architecture on La Merveille’s reproduction. With architectural models, it can, for instance, be entirely possible to 3D print a scale 1/10 of something and just impossible to do the same at 1/250.\n\nAfter a certain level of miniaturization, the details (present in the digital 3D file) are starting to vanish in the physical world because the 3D printer itself is no able to create them (or will create very fragile one). Quite often for architectural models, human intervention is necessary to decide which details will be kept and which won’t so that the 3D file doesn’t contain information that won’t be printable.\n\",0.0,0.0\n3621,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,lejonet,3.0576060275493275,3.6594421369459247,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.306096197889172,How does a layman get a 3D printed replacement part?,\"A plastic gear of an older DVD player broke. I always read about being 3D printing a \"\"repair revolution\"\". So I looked for a template to give to some printing service, but I found none (and nothing close to it).\n\nCould you please explain me, what steps a layman should take to get the gear piece replaced using 3D printing?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"This is not something \"\"a layman\"\" can do. If you want to replace that gear using 3D printing, you'll either need to go down the rabbit hole and learn a bunch of new skills, or hire someone to do it for you.\n\nYou need to have a 3D model of the part you want to replace. While 3D scanning is in some cases possible, it won't give you the resolution required to reproduce the gear with sufficient accuracy. This means your only option is to manually model the gear in CAD software. You'll need to take a bunch of measurements (outer and pitch diameter, thickness, mounting hole diameter) and figure out the tooth profile, and then build a model according to those measurements. A caliper is very helpful when doing this.\n\nA neat trick that might help with a flat part like a gear is to scan it on a flatbed scanner, and then use the resulting photo to trace your CAD sketch over (but you'd still need to cross-reference it with measurements).\n\nUnfortunately, most CAD software is quite complicated and \"\"How do I model a gear\"\" is not a question that can be answered concisely. @fred_dot_u offers a number of suggestions for packages that might work, and even offer modules specific to generating gears. However, if you are not interested in learning CAD for its own sake and really get into 3D printing, learning it just for the sake of replacing a gear in a DVD player is a very inefficient use of your time.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3621,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,lejonet,3.0576060275493275,3.6594421369459247,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.306096197889172,How does a layman get a 3D printed replacement part?,\"A plastic gear of an older DVD player broke. I always read about being 3D printing a \"\"repair revolution\"\". So I looked for a template to give to some printing service, but I found none (and nothing close to it).\n\nCould you please explain me, what steps a layman should take to get the gear piece replaced using 3D printing?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"If you have the remaining pieces of the gear and enough remains to determine certain measurements, one can either engineer the gear using a number of gear modeling designs, or one can take measurements directly from the parts and engineer a raw design.\n\nIf the gear you have is not particularly peculiar, it is possible to use a gear generator plug-in, template, or library to make the \"\"foundation\"\" of your gear. The modeling software would then be used to add the appropriate bosses and key ways required to complete the design.\n\nIf you are considering to create the part yourself, you have a wide selection of programs from which to choose. I'm fond of OpenSCAD, and it does have a number of gear libraries. Simple bosses and key ways are easily accomplished using OpenSCAD.\n\n\n\nAnother package available on the internet which includes the option of using a gear generator is Tinkercad which has a reputation of being easy to use. You'll find many tutorials for this program as well.\n\nTinkercad requires an \"\"outside\"\" program to generate the gear design which is then imported to the model workspace. Even a program as simple as Inkscape can create gear profiles to be imported into many design packages.\n\nFusion360 is available free for hobby or non-commercial use, but may not be the easiest to learn in a short time.\n\nSo many others as well. Use your favorite search engine for \"\"gear generator modeling software\"\" or similar wording and be overloaded with links.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n3627,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user6120,3.0576060275493275,4.081341811753209,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Building a pivot linkage for servo steering with 3d printed parts.,\"This question is more of a mechanical rather than 3d printing, but I am assuming 3d Printing communty have already come accross this issue, therefore this is a good place to ask. \n\nI am building a simple RWD vehicle using 3d printer parts. See the picture below. \n\nAs you can see from the picture, I am using 3d printed linkages for steering mechanism and I used regular bolt and lock nuts to secure them together (thats what I had laying around the house at the moment). The problem here is that, holes in the linkages are not exactly the size of the bolt, and because the bolts are threaded, it generates a lot of friction. Other than that, the bolt seems to sit loose inside the hole and creates an unstable pivot. \n\n\nIf I tighten the nut more, it just presses them together making it hard for the servo to operate. I am looking for a solution that will use simple bolts, nuts and washers which can be bought easily off the shelf (or even with the bolts and screws everyone has around there house). What can be done to make this joint stable in xy plane, rotating freely around the bolt, or whatever the connection could be. By the way, even though I used nylon lock nuts, it seems to loosen after couple of repetitive rotations. \n\nThanks for your help in advance and I hope ya'll have a great day. \n\",tjb1,\"A correct length shoulder screw would work great in this application. They have a shoulder that is held to a precise diameter and a length. You can thread a nut on and tighten it against the shoulder to prevent clamping your pieces. They may be hard to find locally in stores but are readily available at places like MSC, McMaster-Carr, and Bolt Depot.\n\n\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n3631,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Loanb222,2.528907649931287,5.778429237602739,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,1.8746593652159236,1.8301919300004668,Prints falling off the bed towards the end of the print,\"I have been trying to print an object that is 4 inches tall. About at 3 inches it falls off the bed. I am using tape on the heated bed and right before the print I am wiping the bed with rubbing alcohol. After the first time I tried hot gluing it to the bed when it was mid way through so that it wouldn't fall off but that didn't work. I am printing at 185°C and the bed is 55°C. I am using PLA to print. Should I increase the temperature of the bed or is there something else that is wrong?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Even though knowing the model of printer is slightly helpful, it's not critical to making your print work. Your PLA manufacturer should have recommendations for both the bed temperature and the nozzle temperature. Is your print bed glass or metal?\n\nAs an example, my bed is glass and I set the temperature to 70°C for PLA, but the real temperature at the bed is slightly lower than that. \n\nI'm using 3M brand blue painters tape. What type of tape are you using? It will make a difference. I originally used cleaner on the tape, but found it was not needed. Blue tape means parts stick so well that you have to get them free before the bed cools too much, or you'll have to remove the tape to get the part free.\n\nMy PLA nozzle temperature settings range from 190°C to 230°C, depending on the filament. I use the manufacturer's figures and vary them five to ten degrees depending on the results.\n\nToo hot at the nozzle will burn the filament possibly causing a clog, while too cold will cause extruder feeding problems. You did not reference having feeding problems, which implies your nozzle settings are acceptable.\n\nConsider to change your tape and to increase the bed temperature. At a 55°C starting point, you could jump five degrees at a time until you get a good bond.\n\nAlso be certain that your bed is level and properly calibrated. The first layer should apply in a slightly \"\"squashed\"\" manner. Too close and the nozzle tears up the tape, but too far and the filament will sit on top and not properly adhere.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3631,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Loanb222,2.528907649931287,5.778429237602739,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,1.8746593652159236,1.8301919300004668,Prints falling off the bed towards the end of the print,\"I have been trying to print an object that is 4 inches tall. About at 3 inches it falls off the bed. I am using tape on the heated bed and right before the print I am wiping the bed with rubbing alcohol. After the first time I tried hot gluing it to the bed when it was mid way through so that it wouldn't fall off but that didn't work. I am printing at 185°C and the bed is 55°C. I am using PLA to print. Should I increase the temperature of the bed or is there something else that is wrong?\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"Well, I had the same problem like you. I tried some raft but the result was ugly and a little hard to remove it from final part.\n\nI notice that autolevel works fine but, if your printing on top lines are over warping the nozzle will collide until the part fall off the printer. So is needed to minimize this warping controling speed and temperature, maybe the PLA is getting glued to nozzle and creating the warping.\n\nI have set the printer from 185 and 190 to 210 for first layer to increase the adition to tape, the heat bed to 32 degrees to allow the first layer get cold faster to avoid PLA warping. This may vary depending on city climate\n\nRemember the heat bed is to control room temperature close the part, not to mold or to print the part. At least, that you are printing a turkey to be finished and cooked.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3683,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Loanb222,3.618048892289167,5.851330970284861,2.7799718631987322,5.199501240805782,2.746326330407206,1.8301919300004668,Lines of PLA not sticking to the bed,\"When I am printing objects that have a lot of surface area on the first layer parts of that layer will rise up causing there to be gaps in the first layer. Here are two pictures. The first one was printing with a raft and the second one was without a raft. I am printing on 3M Painters tape, extruder temperature at 200, bed temperature at 60. I am using Hatchbox PLA Filiment.\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"In contrast to the other suggestions here, I would like you to try to slightly increase the distance from the bed. \n\nThe logic here is that the \"\"thin walls\"\" you are seeing during the first layer is is due to excessive extrusion as part of a too close bed leveling. The hypothesis is that the excessive plastic will \"\"nudge\"\" the previous laid down plastic, which will loosen it from the bed.\n\nIn my experience, this issue only occurs when printing large, connected first layers - situations where the excessive plastic builds up with nowhere to go. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3683,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Loanb222,3.618048892289167,5.851330970284861,2.7799718631987322,5.199501240805782,2.746326330407206,1.8301919300004668,Lines of PLA not sticking to the bed,\"When I am printing objects that have a lot of surface area on the first layer parts of that layer will rise up causing there to be gaps in the first layer. Here are two pictures. The first one was printing with a raft and the second one was without a raft. I am printing on 3M Painters tape, extruder temperature at 200, bed temperature at 60. I am using Hatchbox PLA Filiment.\n\",StarWind0,\"You got a few things happening. First that temp seems low. I am printing PLA at 215.. but there are a lot of factors. Start with a simple calibration thin wall test. Which is just a wall, no body. \n\nFrom there your bed could be closer. Maybe. I don't think that's really the issue. Slower speed and heat will make more of a difference. That said. I take a piece of paper and calibrate it so there just a little, but not too much, friction. \n\nMake sure you are printing at 30% speed for first layer.\n\nLast use a glue stick.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n4941,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Loanb222,1.726248027126092,3.3519732380519804,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Double Image Along X Axis,\"Recently my printer has been creating double images along the X-axis, I just printed a calibration cube after checking all of my rods to make sure nothing was catching and here was my result:\n\nIt looks like there is another X to the right of the X that is supposed to be, would this be a retraction problem, or could it be a problem with the filament because I printed a calibration cube with another filament a couple of weeks ago and there was no double X.\n\",cmm,\"There are several problems, but lets start with a method for discovering them.\n\nThe first thing to do is look for any looseness or slop in the mechanism. Try wiggling the hot end, looking for any free movement. Try moving along the axes that move. You haven't specified the machine, so I can't suggest the specific points to try moving. If the bed moves, try wiggling the bed. If the extruder moves, try wiggling the extruder on each movement axis. Nothing should move at all until the motors skip. \n\nIf the mechanism is fully tight (and from this picture, I expect it to have some \"\"wiggle room\"\"), you could follow by slowing the machine, including reducing the acceleration settings. If you find something moving, you'll need to investigate why -- what is allowing the movement to happen. On a belt-driven machine, the belts can be loose, but one can also get movement from loose set screws, motor mounts, hot-ends which are coming apart, or loose thrust bearings or nuts on threaded shafts. Applying force to the parts that move during printing and watching for movement is the best diagnostic.\n\nIn the future, when asking questions it can be helpful to include the type of machine, any modifications you've made, and information about the printing conditions.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4941,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Loanb222,1.726248027126092,3.3519732380519804,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Double Image Along X Axis,\"Recently my printer has been creating double images along the X-axis, I just printed a calibration cube after checking all of my rods to make sure nothing was catching and here was my result:\n\nIt looks like there is another X to the right of the X that is supposed to be, would this be a retraction problem, or could it be a problem with the filament because I printed a calibration cube with another filament a couple of weeks ago and there was no double X.\n\",Mick,\"I agree with @FernandoBaltazar. You have several things going on. If the problem is recent, you may have loose belts, but you may also need to perform acceleration and jerk tuning. Reducing your print speeds may also help.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n7317,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Loanb222,2.8153892694839717,4.218036343495915,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Screeching Noise when moving the Z-Axis Down,\"I have had my Prusa i3 clone for about two years and it has always made a screeching sound when the z-axis is moving down. I have tried many solutions for this problem like greasing the z-rods, printing a new top part (the holder at the top z-rods end) with a bearing to prevent the threaded rod from swaying, and even hot glueing bearing to the stock top piece. However, none of this has worked. I am not sure if it is affecting the print quality but the sound is very annoying when it is doing a lot of hops and I would like to fix it. Here is a video (with sound) of the rod moving up and down.\n\nVideo\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"I had this same problem. I attributed it to the linear bearings which ride on the 8mm travel rods. I did two things which ultimately eliminated the issue (since I did both at the same time, I'm not sure which solved the issue, but believe it's #1 below):\n\n\nI replaced all of my ball type (stock) linear bearings with Igus Drylin linear bearings. I'm pretty sure the metal ball bearings were screeching along the 8mm metal rods. The Drylin bearings pretty much eliminated any noise on the rods. I replaced all of them for X, Y, & Z axis rods at the same time. \nI used white lithium grease (just a small amount) on the Z-axis screw rod. This helped everything travel better. It should also help it last longer by preventing wear. \n\n\nSince I've done this, I've not had any screeching anymore. You don't have to use Drylin linear bearings, as there are other printable options on Thingiverse.com.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n3633,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ItamarG3,3.0576060275493275,5.85397540125635,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.880918201452841,Infill pattern comparison,\"I'm relatively new to 3d printing, and wanted to get a few things understood.\nFirstly, I am unclear on how Hexagonal infill is stronger than, say, diamond pattern. \n\nCan anyone explain how the different shape causes the structure to be stronger? I saw a few places that hex is stronger; usually, more vertices means 'weaker' shape (i.e. a triangle is stronger than a square), so how does that work with hex vs diamond?\n\nAlso, in small objects, where the printer makes only a single dot as the infill (a dot instead of a line in larger objects), does the infill strengthen the object at all?\n\nEDIT: I am trying to understand the effect of the infill pattern on the strength of the print, regardless of print time.\n\",TextGeek,\"Hex grids are used for different reasons than triangular grids (such as you often see on bridges and roof systems). Triangles are especially good at being rigid, while hex grids are very material-efficient for a given strength. The second reason ($) is typically more important for 3D printing.\n\nTriangles do have fewer vertices than squares, but it's not always true that \"\"fewer vertices\"\" means stronger. Vertices are one kind of weak point. But in a triangle, vertex \"\"angle-holding\"\" failures simply don't matter. You can fasten 3 bars together with hinges or other joints that have little resistance to changing angle, and the triangle is still rigid.\n\nIn contrast, rectangular grids can (and do -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5t9MpNTSbYg) completely collapse if their vertices aren't rigid enough. That combines badly with the fact that vertices concentrate forces, so have to be much stronger than sides in comparable settings.\n\nA triangle cannot change without changing multiple things -- at least 2 angles and a side, or all three sides. Intuitively, the sides and vertices of a triangle work together for strength. This advantage of triangles doesn't transfer to hexagons, but hexagons have two other advantages: First, if you want to fill a space with a repeating shape, hexagons use less material than other shapes. And second, hexagons keep all the individual \"\"walls\"\" shorter compared to others shapes, which makes them less prone to bend.\n\nThe material efficiency was proven by Thomas Hales in 1998, according to http://www.slate.com/articles/health_and_science/science/2015/07/hexagons_are_the_most_scientifically_efficient_packing_shape_as_bee_honeycomb.html. His paper \"\"The Honeycomb Structure\"\" is available at https://www.communitycommons.org/wp-content/uploads/bp-attachments/14268/honey.pdf\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n3633,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ItamarG3,3.0576060275493275,5.85397540125635,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.880918201452841,Infill pattern comparison,\"I'm relatively new to 3d printing, and wanted to get a few things understood.\nFirstly, I am unclear on how Hexagonal infill is stronger than, say, diamond pattern. \n\nCan anyone explain how the different shape causes the structure to be stronger? I saw a few places that hex is stronger; usually, more vertices means 'weaker' shape (i.e. a triangle is stronger than a square), so how does that work with hex vs diamond?\n\nAlso, in small objects, where the printer makes only a single dot as the infill (a dot instead of a line in larger objects), does the infill strengthen the object at all?\n\nEDIT: I am trying to understand the effect of the infill pattern on the strength of the print, regardless of print time.\n\",Davo,\"Correction: I believe I found what you are looking for:\n\nReport from EngineerDog.com\n\nThe author concludes that rectilinear infill with a zero degree offset is the strongest. However, I have not seen consensus for or against a certain pattern being strongest. I recommend more investigation .\n\nMy original answer:\n\n\n I don't know that one pattern is significantly stronger than another,\n provided they each bond well with other infill deposits as well as the\n perimeters.\n \n There are studies around. In 3D printing, strength is rarely the only\n consideration; one must optimize for strength where needed versus\n time to print.\n \n See\n this\n as an example of a report which supports the hexagonal or honeycomb\n pattern as the optimal balance between strength and print time. This\n one is\n more detailed, but only compares linear infill patterns of varying\n layer thickness and density. There are many such articles, some more\n scientifically conducted than others, available with a simple search.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3637,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,T_Robbins,3.618048892289167,4.024506721533562,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Folgertech FT-5 : Does not seem to be reading G-Code correctly,\"I recently purchased an FT-5 from Folgertech and finished assembly about a week ago. I have yet to accomplish a successful print. It seems like either the file is not being sliced correctly, or that it is possibly reading the G-code incorrectly. It will lay down the first perimeter layer of the part and then shift down the build plate a few mm in the y-direction, extrude another perimeter layer and then repeat. I have tried printing from an SD and through USB using Cura as the slicing software, with the same results.\n\n\nI have doubled checked the tightness on all of the belts and pulleys\nThe Y-Driver was bad, initially so I swapped it with the spare on the board and it solved the issue.\nI have gone through the entire code on the Marlin V3 Firmware, and everything seems to look as it should.\nMKS Gen V 1.4 w/ Arduino Mega 2560\nI have tried using Arduino 1.6.5/1.6.6/1.6.7\nI calibrated the XYZ steps/mm\n\n\nAll of the mechanical movements and offsets seem to be correct. The printer connects to Pronterface without issue. It also homes fine from the machine and USB and moves where it should during these processes. Again, it seems to be that the issue is when it tries to interpret the G-code. I have tried multiple G-code files from different sources as well, still with the same luck.\n\nIf anyone has experience with similar issues or can offer any help, it would be greatly appreciated. I have no clue what could be going on!\n\nIn red filament is my attempt to print the 5 mm calibration cube this morning, an example of how this calibration cube should look like is seen in the picture with the white calibration cubes.\n\n \n\",0scar,\"The image shows that somehow steps in Y direction (under the assumption that you have taken the photograph from the front) are missed. \n\nMissing steps can be caused by too high settings for acceleration and jerk, too much friction on the undercarriage or the belt assembly, undercarriage catching something at a certain point, too less current through the stepper.\n\nYou could increase the torque on the stepper by increasing the Vref of your stepper driver is you have separate stepper driver modules, or a adjustment screw on the printer controller board. Furthermore reduce the acceleration and jerk settings and check the undercarriage for stick-slip movement by disconnecting the belt, then reconnect the belt and check for friction of the pulleys.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n3641,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dietr,2.528907649931287,5.377486073881581,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Assisted manual levelling with Marlin,\"Marlin offers a bunch of different choices for auto-levelling and assisted manual levelling for bent build plates (mesh levelling), but for the moment I want to level things completely manually.\n\nThat is, I want to move Z to 0, disable steppers, and then move around the print head and adjust the distance between bed and nozzle at various points with a piece of paper.\n\nWith the old Repetier based firmware on my printer, selecting \"\"home all axes\"\" did not only home XYZ to endstops, but it also moved the head to position (0, 0, 0) afterwards. Then I could simply disable steppers via the menu and go on with my levelling. Note that in my case, the coordinates of the endstop positions are negative for all axes, so moving to the endstops alone isn't cutting it.\n\nWith Marlin, selecting the \"\"auto home\"\" option merely moves to the endstops and then to some positive Z position (+10). This means I have to use the menu to manually move Z back to 0, which is quite inconvenient, unless I have a PC nearby that allows me to enter G-code.\n\nSo, that leaves two related questions for me:\n\nIs there some simple way to move to (0, 0, 0) with the menu?\n\nCan I implement an assisted manual levelling (i.e. some procedure that simply moves the head between a number of different X/Y positions) easily? Does something like that already exist? If not, I wonder why.\n\",Gunslinger,\"Write a few pieces of gcode to do this. Place it on an SD-card (I assume you have a reader) and select the file you want to execute.\n\nHome all:\n\nG28\nG1 Z0\n\n\nDo you really want to home it directly? I would say you want to take it down slowly and adjusting end-stops incrementally.\n\nFirst:\n\nG28\nG1 Z10\n\n\nThen\n\nG28\nG1 Z3\n\n\nThen\n\nG28\nG1 Z1\n\n\netc etc\n\nYou can also move it around in the X and Y plane:\n\nG28\nG1 Z5 X50 Y30\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3641,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dietr,2.528907649931287,5.377486073881581,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Assisted manual levelling with Marlin,\"Marlin offers a bunch of different choices for auto-levelling and assisted manual levelling for bent build plates (mesh levelling), but for the moment I want to level things completely manually.\n\nThat is, I want to move Z to 0, disable steppers, and then move around the print head and adjust the distance between bed and nozzle at various points with a piece of paper.\n\nWith the old Repetier based firmware on my printer, selecting \"\"home all axes\"\" did not only home XYZ to endstops, but it also moved the head to position (0, 0, 0) afterwards. Then I could simply disable steppers via the menu and go on with my levelling. Note that in my case, the coordinates of the endstop positions are negative for all axes, so moving to the endstops alone isn't cutting it.\n\nWith Marlin, selecting the \"\"auto home\"\" option merely moves to the endstops and then to some positive Z position (+10). This means I have to use the menu to manually move Z back to 0, which is quite inconvenient, unless I have a PC nearby that allows me to enter G-code.\n\nSo, that leaves two related questions for me:\n\nIs there some simple way to move to (0, 0, 0) with the menu?\n\nCan I implement an assisted manual levelling (i.e. some procedure that simply moves the head between a number of different X/Y positions) easily? Does something like that already exist? If not, I wonder why.\n\",Eagl3,\"The way I manually level my bed is by connecting a computer to the printer via USB. As far as I am aware, if you have a touchscreen this should be available on the printer options as well for marlin.\n\nBut if you connect a computer, simply run something like pronterface or any other manual control gui and:\n\n1) home axes\n\n2) disable motors\n\n3) move printhead in x/y directions as necessary by hand\n\n4) adjust z height manually with the GUI software. This should not affect your x/y positions or turn on their motors.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3659,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Louis van Tonder,1.726248027126092,4.635346415086903,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Print is not properly laminated at certain height,\"I have a Wanhao Duplicator i3.\n\nI have done many excellent prints with this printer, and have first hand experience that it can do a pretty much flawless print.\n\nBut... Recently, I am experiencing weird results. My \"\"flow\"\" seems uneven. When laying down the first layer of the raft, I can see it looks like it \"\"beads\"\" in some places. Thin lines with little \"\"beads\"\" here and there (which seem to be in a constant pattern) i.e. -------()-----()-----()------()------ etc.\n\nI initially thought, wet filament... But drying the filament had no noticeable effect. Further more, all my prints seem to be horribly laminated at a certain \"\"height\"\" of the print. This is really strange as it will print perfectly and only at a certain height, mess up about 5mm of layers (height wise), and then print great again. This seems to be a constant now.\n\nI dont understand how/why this could happen, as the whole z-axis is on a linear spiral shaft. Unless there is a gcode issue somewhere that I am not aware off. I am using CURA as my slicer and I feel that even if there was an isnturuction hidden somewhere at a certain height, it would possibly effect a single layer, and not 5mm worth of layers.\n\nAny ideas?\n\nI have tried:\n\nDifferent filament\nPushing flow % to 105 and 110% respectively\nCleaned extruder gears and print head\nOiled z-axis shafts\n\nWhat baffles me, is the weird delamination (or rather lack of lamination) at a certain height. I have not measured this height exactly, but from guestimating, it looks like roughly the same height on every print where the issue is visible (about 3/4 up in the attached image). My support structures are also VERY messy, whilst they were very precise and perfect previously.\n\n\n\nThanks\n\",raviriley,\"This looks like a heating or retraction issue. I also have a Di3, and I encountered a similar problem a while ago. I have found that leveling the bed very well and making sure the z-axis is aligned fixes most problems with this machine. Re-calibrate your printer and try out a different slicer. This link from the 3D Printer Wiki is very useful.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3659,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Louis van Tonder,1.726248027126092,4.635346415086903,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Print is not properly laminated at certain height,\"I have a Wanhao Duplicator i3.\n\nI have done many excellent prints with this printer, and have first hand experience that it can do a pretty much flawless print.\n\nBut... Recently, I am experiencing weird results. My \"\"flow\"\" seems uneven. When laying down the first layer of the raft, I can see it looks like it \"\"beads\"\" in some places. Thin lines with little \"\"beads\"\" here and there (which seem to be in a constant pattern) i.e. -------()-----()-----()------()------ etc.\n\nI initially thought, wet filament... But drying the filament had no noticeable effect. Further more, all my prints seem to be horribly laminated at a certain \"\"height\"\" of the print. This is really strange as it will print perfectly and only at a certain height, mess up about 5mm of layers (height wise), and then print great again. This seems to be a constant now.\n\nI dont understand how/why this could happen, as the whole z-axis is on a linear spiral shaft. Unless there is a gcode issue somewhere that I am not aware off. I am using CURA as my slicer and I feel that even if there was an isnturuction hidden somewhere at a certain height, it would possibly effect a single layer, and not 5mm worth of layers.\n\nAny ideas?\n\nI have tried:\n\nDifferent filament\nPushing flow % to 105 and 110% respectively\nCleaned extruder gears and print head\nOiled z-axis shafts\n\nWhat baffles me, is the weird delamination (or rather lack of lamination) at a certain height. I have not measured this height exactly, but from guestimating, it looks like roughly the same height on every print where the issue is visible (about 3/4 up in the attached image). My support structures are also VERY messy, whilst they were very precise and perfect previously.\n\n\n\nThanks\n\",Louis van Tonder,\"Thanks to all the replies. Whilst all of them may be valid in some scenarios, my case seemed to have been a combination of things, that relates to most of the replies here.\n\nI had my spool holder on the side of the machine, and I noticed some friction as the filament feeded over the \"\"arm\"\" on top of the printer into the extruder. I sat and looked at this for a while, and it seemed apparent that as the extruder moves up, the angle of the filament over the \"\"guide arm\"\" on top changes to a more severe bend. This may have been why it always battles to extrude nicely at a certain height, and then maybe recoveres after that to an extent. (SO yes, under extrusion may have been the issue)\n\nI have now moved the filament to on top of the printer to feed straight down. I have also slowed down the travel to about half of what it was (40 now, was 60). I also dropped the infill speed a bit as that was also a mess most of the times.\n\nSo far I have had excellent results! I am not sure if its the travel speed drop or the extruder feed that helped the most, but I am a happy chappie again. (So far).\n\nThanks for all the input. It really made me re-look at all of this from a different view.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n3661,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mehrad,3.767809650974757,5.909099916115177,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,3.320478682445624,2.880918201452841,Would 3D printing multiple copies at once saves time?,\"I am wondering - of course if the 3D printer's bed big enough - printing multiple copies of the same print could save me significant amount of time in a small production line, excluding minor wastage such as setup time, post-processing time, etc.\n\n\n\ne.g. if my foo print takes 10 hours, printing 2x copies at the same time would take 2x times more, increasing linearly or it would be significantly less?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"The proportion of production improvement is dependent on the size of the items being printed, generally speaking. Unfortunately, it's variable enough to make a precise answer difficult.\n\nConsider a single unit print. I'll use my printer as an example. Other printers may have similar sequences. The print is begun and the bed has to heat up to temperature. Once the set level is reached, the print head(s) also have to reach temperature. Ignoring for the moment the print duration, one then considers that the printer bed has to cool to release the print.\n\nIf you have ten items to print, you gain nine times the above elapsed time. That can be a substantial portion of production time.\n\nOn the flip side, there isn't going to be much benefit in time from ten prints opposed to one. You may lose some post-processing time if you have stringing between the items. \n\nDirectly related to quantity printing is yet another complication. If you have a single print fail, you've lost that time. As an example, one print may take 18 minutes. Twelve minutes into the print, you have a nozzle clog and have to abort the job. That's an unfortunate loss.\n\nWith ten prints on the bed, you are two hours into the print and have a failure. Much worse loss of time and productivity.\n\nObviously, one would prefer to have a properly fully working printer and be able to operate with the confidence that these failures won't appear.\n\nHobby grade printers can't provide that level of confidence, but industrial/commercial grade printers should, further improving the productivity time for printing multiple items on a bed.\n\nIf you have hot-swappable print beds, maybe combined with the ability to pre-heat the incoming bed, you gain time-wise. I don't know enough of the commercial grade printers to suggest that such a feature exists. My printer bed is attached with magnets and could be hot-swapped if I exercised care. The bed would begin to cool quickly, making a pre-heated plate all the more valuable. I'll just print multiple items and hope for the best, instead.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3661,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mehrad,3.767809650974757,5.909099916115177,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,3.320478682445624,2.880918201452841,Would 3D printing multiple copies at once saves time?,\"I am wondering - of course if the 3D printer's bed big enough - printing multiple copies of the same print could save me significant amount of time in a small production line, excluding minor wastage such as setup time, post-processing time, etc.\n\n\n\ne.g. if my foo print takes 10 hours, printing 2x copies at the same time would take 2x times more, increasing linearly or it would be significantly less?\n\",StarWind0,\"Actually no. It will take slightly more for each addition. You also then have the point of failure, where one gets knocked off and ruins all the prints. \n\nThe fastest way to print multiple objects is one at a time. In fact slic3r lets you do just that with their sequential printing feature.\n\nThe reason is, the time it takes to lift 0.5mm, travel the few MM over to the next object, lower the 0.5mm back down.. Repeat for inner shells, outer shells, infill.. all add time. Doesn't seem like much till you do it 14,000 times. \n\nIn the case of your example, it would be negligible. In more complicated or well spaced prints its another story.\n\nFor extra extra fast, look into loss PLA casting... \n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n3662,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,KDM,2.1782824847157594,5.709980867762099,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,G-code (M-code?) for Get Bed Temperature,\"I'm familiar with 3D printing, and the G-code concept. I'm also comfortable with programming. \n\nCan anyone give me the G-code (or probably the M-code, actually) to read the bed temperature? \n\nIs there an equivalent of M105 (Get Extruder Temperature)?\n\",tjb1,\"M105 should give you the bed temperature. \n\nFor future reference you can find a general list of G/M codes here - RepRap Wiki - G-code. \n\nMost firmware files include a list, Marlin has it in Marlin_main. I have no idea how often the list is updated but they don't change often.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n3668,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,majededdine,2.8153892694839717,4.691690166974605,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,Can 3D printers print details in the 1/10 of the micrometer for metals?,\"I'm starting to get familiar with 3D printers. I wish to know if printing details the size of 10-7 m (3.9*10-6 in) is possible these days with metals or any other material.\n\nIf anyone has information or articles as leads, I would really appreciate it.\n\",Davo,\"Today, only SLA/DLP will give features of that size (if even these technologies do), and I am unaware of anyone using these technologies to print with metals today.\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3668,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,majededdine,2.8153892694839717,4.691690166974605,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,Can 3D printers print details in the 1/10 of the micrometer for metals?,\"I'm starting to get familiar with 3D printers. I wish to know if printing details the size of 10-7 m (3.9*10-6 in) is possible these days with metals or any other material.\n\nIf anyone has information or articles as leads, I would really appreciate it.\n\",Vince 49,\"You can get the 0.1 micron (100 nm) resolution with a 2-photon 3D printer, but only in a polymer resin. Nanoscribe, in Germany, pioneered this technology, see Mechanical Microstructures. \n\nTheir commercial printer, the Photonic Professional GT, is about $350,000 US with software and accessories. There is some work being done to replicate the 3D printed polymer in metal using electroless plating or ALD (atomic layer deposition). Other techniques are in development.\n\nNone of the direct metal 3D printing processes come close to your 0.1 micron resolution, although the field is rapidly evolving. Only a couple of years ago, direct metal 3D printing was all based on powder bed fusion. Now binder jet technology as been adapted to metals and, very recently, Xjet has developed a nanoparticle 3D printer. It prints \"\"ink\"\" composed of metal or ceramic nanoparticles suspended in a liquid. The minimum layer thickness is 1 to 2 microns. They have not released XY resolution data yet.\n\nA good overall reference for the various 3D printing techniques (including Xjet, but not Nanoscribe) can be found at Explaining The Future - 3D Printing.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n3670,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Qeeet,2.528907649931287,5.421323793288005,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,What is the best color of PETg to use for outdoor durability?,\"I am doing a quad-copter now.\n\nI am not sure what color is the best to use for outdoor durability, especially in sunlight.\n\nThey say PETg is the most durable material amongst cheap ones.\n\nBut what color to choose: white or transparent? Or it does not matter?\n\",Mikhail Z,\"Unless you plan to use your copter outside Earth atmosphere or expected lifetime is more than tenths of years, UV degradation should not be a problem for PETG. Some of the net sources indicate the possibility of degradation after significant time of constant exposure to outdoor conditions (mostly color change), which sounds mostly like absence of practical experience.\n\nYet if there are any concerns about losing mechanical properties from the sunlight, any opaque lacquer car paint can help to absorb unwanted radiation and add some nicer view to the model. Acrylic paint will also work (tried this once myself) but it may not be suitable for outdoor.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n3670,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Qeeet,2.528907649931287,5.421323793288005,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,What is the best color of PETg to use for outdoor durability?,\"I am doing a quad-copter now.\n\nI am not sure what color is the best to use for outdoor durability, especially in sunlight.\n\nThey say PETg is the most durable material amongst cheap ones.\n\nBut what color to choose: white or transparent? Or it does not matter?\n\",Diesel,\"PETG might not be the best for long term UV exposure.\n\nAccording to Midland Plastics, PETG doesn't hold up well in outdoor applications, and is susceptible to UV degradation. Unless you have an outdoor or UV rated PETG product which will have additional chemicals added to it, it may breakdown more quickly than you would expect. (the link I used was : http://www.midlandplastics.com/srtd_petg.htm)\n\nPolycarbonate on the other hand does hold up better in outdoor applications and is better suited for long term exposure to UV light. Most quads and RC products you see that have a nice slick looking shell on them, are made from Polycarbonate. That stuff is usually vacuum formed sheets. It does still breakdown but it is a much stronger material. The downside is that PC requires a higher nozzle temperature, than PETG. (The reprap wiki has more info: http://reprap.org/wiki/Polycarbonate)\n\nThat being said PETG is not going to dissolve in sunlight. It will likely last upto a year if not longer depending on usage. If this is your first quad you're making, then odds are you'll have a crash due to hardware failure before excessive UV degradation (at least thats been my experience with prototype aircraft).\n\nGood luck!\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3688,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,arennuit,2.1782824847157594,3.6561754105338378,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,MakerBot replicator 2x glitches,\"I have access to a MakerBot Replicator 2X which I use to try to print ABS + dissoluble (both are MakerBot's original filaments). It is really a pain and the filaments most often gets clogged (80% of the prints have to be thrown away). I a supposed to use the printer in a professional context, but at the moment it is really problematic and I feel pressure going up...\n\nI have initially tried the default parameters provided by the machine for known filaments (ABS: 230°C / dissoluble: 250°C / plate: 110°C + 0.1mm layers). As the nozzle got clogged I have made many other attempts with varying parameters and up to (250°C / 270°C / 135°C), which slightly improves things but is far from being really usable.\n\nAny idea of where this comes from?\n - ABS being notoriously difficult to print?\n - The Replicator 2x being old tech?\n - A parameters problem?\n\nAny advice on what I should do to improve the situation?\n\",Diesel,\"I don't have a profile that has settings for the dissolvable filament anymore, but this is one I use for thin layers (second extruder at 232C my first extruder isn't working so just ignore that one).\n\nYou may want to try printing small simple objects with each extruder independently first to confirm that you have good settings, then try both together after you know you have good settings. ABS is a pain but mostly for warping and sticking to the build plate. The dissolvable filament I believe is PLA if you're using Makerbot materials.\n\n{\n \"\"_attached_extruders\"\" : [ \"\"mk8\"\", \"\"mk8\"\" ],\n \"\"_bot\"\" : \"\"replicator2x\"\",\n \"\"_extruders\"\" : [ 0 ],\n \"\"_materials\"\" : [ \"\"abs\"\", \"\"abs\"\" ],\n \"\"adjacentFillLeakyConnections\"\" : false,\n \"\"adjacentFillLeakyDistanceRatio\"\" : 0,\n \"\"anchorExtrusionAmount\"\" : 5.0,\n \"\"anchorExtrusionSpeed\"\" : 2.0,\n \"\"anchorWidth\"\" : 2.0,\n \"\"backlashEpsilon\"\" : 0.050,\n \"\"backlashFeedback\"\" : 0.90,\n \"\"backlashX\"\" : 0.0,\n \"\"backlashY\"\" : 0.090,\n \"\"bedZOffset\"\" : 0.0,\n \"\"bridgeAnchorMinimumLength\"\" : 0.80,\n \"\"bridgeAnchorWidth\"\" : 0.80,\n \"\"bridgeMaximumLength\"\" : 80.0,\n \"\"bridgeSpacingMultiplier\"\" : 1.0,\n \"\"coarseness\"\" : 9.999999747378752e-005,\n \"\"commentClose\"\" : \"\"\"\",\n \"\"commentOpen\"\" : \"\";\"\",\n \"\"computeVolumeLike2_1_0\"\" : false,\n \"\"defaultExtruder\"\" : 0,\n \"\"defaultRaftMaterial\"\" : 0,\n \"\"defaultSupportMaterial\"\" : 0,\n \"\"description\"\" : \"\"External Definition\"\",\n \"\"doAnchor\"\" : true,\n \"\"doBacklashCompensation\"\" : false,\n \"\"doBreakawaySupport\"\" : true,\n \"\"doBridging\"\" : true,\n \"\"doDynamicSpeed\"\" : false,\n \"\"doDynamicSpeedGradually\"\" : true,\n \"\"doDynamicSpeedInteriorShells\"\" : false,\n \"\"doDynamicSpeedOutermostShell\"\" : true,\n \"\"doExponentialDeceleration\"\" : false,\n \"\"doExternalSpurs\"\" : true,\n \"\"doFixedLayerStart\"\" : false,\n \"\"doFixedShellStart\"\" : true,\n \"\"doInfills\"\" : true,\n \"\"doInsets\"\" : true,\n \"\"doInternalSpurs\"\" : false,\n \"\"doMixedRaft\"\" : false,\n \"\"doMixedSupport\"\" : false,\n \"\"doOutlines\"\" : true,\n \"\"doPrintLayerMessages\"\" : false,\n \"\"doPrintProgress\"\" : true,\n \"\"doPurgeWall\"\" : false,\n \"\"doRaft\"\" : true,\n \"\"doSplitLongMoves\"\" : true,\n \"\"doSupport\"\" : true,\n \"\"doSupportUnderBridges\"\" : false,\n \"\"endGcode\"\" : \"\"\"\",\n \"\"exponentialDecelerationMinSpeed\"\" : 0.0,\n \"\"extruderProfiles\"\" : [\n {\n \"\"bridgesExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"bridges\"\",\n \"\"feedDiameter\"\" : 1.820000052452087,\n \"\"feedstockMultiplier\"\" : 0.9300000000000001,\n \"\"firstLayerExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"firstLayer\"\",\n \"\"firstLayerRaftExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"firstLayerRaft\"\",\n \"\"floorSurfaceFillsExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"floorSurfaceFills\"\",\n \"\"infillsExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"infill\"\",\n \"\"insetsExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"insets\"\",\n \"\"layerHeight\"\" : 0.20,\n \"\"maxSparseFillThickness\"\" : 0.20,\n \"\"nozzleDiameter\"\" : 0.40,\n \"\"outlinesExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"outlines\"\",\n \"\"raftBaseExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"raftBase\"\",\n \"\"raftExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"raft\"\",\n \"\"restartExtraDistance\"\" : 0.0,\n \"\"restartExtraDistance2\"\" : 0,\n \"\"restartExtraRate\"\" : 25.0,\n \"\"restartExtraRate2\"\" : -1,\n \"\"restartRate\"\" : 25.0,\n \"\"restartRate2\"\" : 25,\n \"\"retractDistance\"\" : 1.700000047683716,\n \"\"retractDistance2\"\" : 0,\n \"\"retractRate\"\" : 25.0,\n \"\"retractRate2\"\" : 50,\n \"\"roofSurfaceFillsExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"roofSurfaceFills\"\",\n \"\"sparseRoofSurfaceFillsExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"sparseRoofSurfaceFills\"\",\n \"\"toolchangeRestartDistance\"\" : 18.50,\n \"\"toolchangeRestartRate\"\" : 6.0,\n \"\"toolchangeRetractDistance\"\" : 19.0,\n \"\"toolchangeRetractRate\"\" : 6.0\n },\n {\n \"\"bridgesExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"bridges\"\",\n \"\"feedDiameter\"\" : 1.769999980926514,\n \"\"feedstockMultiplier\"\" : 0.9300000000000001,\n \"\"firstLayerExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"firstLayer\"\",\n \"\"firstLayerRaftExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"firstLayerRaft\"\",\n \"\"floorSurfaceFillsExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"floorSurfaceFills\"\",\n \"\"infillsExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"infill\"\",\n \"\"insetsExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"insets\"\",\n \"\"layerHeight\"\" : 0.20,\n \"\"maxSparseFillThickness\"\" : 0.20,\n \"\"nozzleDiameter\"\" : 0.40,\n \"\"outlinesExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"outlines\"\",\n \"\"raftBaseExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"raftBase\"\",\n \"\"raftExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"raft\"\",\n \"\"restartExtraDistance\"\" : 0.0,\n \"\"restartExtraDistance2\"\" : 0,\n \"\"restartExtraRate\"\" : 25.0,\n \"\"restartExtraRate2\"\" : -1,\n \"\"restartRate\"\" : 25.0,\n \"\"restartRate2\"\" : 25,\n \"\"retractDistance\"\" : 1.399999976158142,\n \"\"retractDistance2\"\" : 0,\n \"\"retractRate\"\" : 25.0,\n \"\"retractRate2\"\" : 50,\n \"\"roofSurfaceFillsExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"roofSurfaceFills\"\",\n \"\"sparseRoofSurfaceFillsExtrusionProfile\"\" : \"\"sparseRoofSurfaceFills\"\",\n \"\"toolchangeRestartDistance\"\" : 18.50,\n \"\"toolchangeRestartRate\"\" : 6.0,\n \"\"toolchangeRetractDistance\"\" : 19.0,\n \"\"toolchangeRetractRate\"\" : 6.0\n }\n ],\n \"\"extruderTemp0\"\" : 228,\n \"\"extruderTemp1\"\" : 232,\n \"\"extrusionProfiles\"\" : {\n \"\"bridges\"\" : {\n \"\"fanSpeed\"\" : 0.50,\n \"\"feedrate\"\" : 40.0\n },\n \"\"firstLayer\"\" : {\n \"\"fanSpeed\"\" : 0.50,\n \"\"feedrate\"\" : 10.0\n },\n \"\"firstLayerRaft\"\" : {\n \"\"fanSpeed\"\" : 0.50,\n \"\"feedrate\"\" : 50.0\n },\n \"\"floorSurfaceFills\"\" : {\n \"\"fanSpeed\"\" : 0.50,\n \"\"feedrate\"\" : 40.0\n },\n \"\"infill\"\" : {\n \"\"fanSpeed\"\" : 0.50,\n \"\"feedrate\"\" : 40.0\n },\n \"\"insets\"\" : {\n \"\"fanSpeed\"\" : 0.50,\n \"\"feedrate\"\" : 40.0\n },\n \"\"outlines\"\" : {\n \"\"fanSpeed\"\" : 0.50,\n \"\"feedrate\"\" : 10.0\n },\n \"\"raft\"\" : {\n \"\"fanSpeed\"\" : 0.50,\n \"\"feedrate\"\" : 90.0\n },\n \"\"raftBase\"\" : {\n \"\"fanSpeed\"\" : 0.50,\n \"\"feedrate\"\" : 10.0\n },\n \"\"roofSurfaceFills\"\" : {\n \"\"fanSpeed\"\" : 0.50,\n \"\"feedrate\"\" : 90.0\n },\n \"\"sparseRoofSurfaceFills\"\" : {\n \"\"fanSpeed\"\" : 0.50,\n \"\"feedrate\"\" : 90.0\n }\n },\n \"\"fixedLayerStartX\"\" : 0.0,\n \"\"fixedLayerStartY\"\" : 0.0,\n \"\"fixedShellStartDirection\"\" : 215.0,\n \"\"floorSolidThickness\"\" : 0,\n \"\"floorSurfaceThickness\"\" : 0,\n \"\"floorThickness\"\" : 1.0,\n \"\"gridSpacingMultiplier\"\" : 1.0,\n \"\"infillDensity\"\" : 0.3000000119209290,\n \"\"infillOrientationInterval\"\" : 90,\n \"\"infillOrientationOffset\"\" : 0,\n \"\"infillOrientationRange\"\" : 90,\n \"\"infillShellSpacingMultiplier\"\" : 0.70,\n \"\"insetDistanceMultiplier\"\" : 1.0,\n \"\"jsonToolpathOutput\"\" : false,\n \"\"layerHeight\"\" : 0.1199999973177910,\n \"\"leakyConnectionsAdjacentDistance\"\" : 0.0,\n \"\"maxConnectionLength\"\" : 10.0,\n \"\"maxSparseFillThickness\"\" : 0.1000000014901161,\n \"\"maxSpurWidth\"\" : 0.50,\n \"\"minLayerDuration\"\" : 5.0,\n \"\"minLayerHeight\"\" : 0.010,\n \"\"minRaftBaseGap\"\" : 0.0,\n \"\"minSpeedMultiplier\"\" : 0.30,\n \"\"minSpurLength\"\" : 0.40,\n \"\"minSpurWidth\"\" : 0.120,\n \"\"minThickInfillImprovement\"\" : 1.0,\n \"\"modelFillProfiles\"\" : {},\n \"\"numberOfShells\"\" : 2,\n \"\"platformTemp\"\" : 110,\n \"\"purgeBucketSide\"\" : 4.0,\n \"\"purgeWallBaseFilamentWidth\"\" : 2.0,\n \"\"purgeWallBasePatternLength\"\" : 10.0,\n \"\"purgeWallBasePatternWidth\"\" : 8.0,\n \"\"purgeWallModelOffset\"\" : 2.0,\n \"\"purgeWallPatternWidth\"\" : 2.0,\n \"\"purgeWallSpacing\"\" : 1.0,\n \"\"purgeWallWidth\"\" : 0.50,\n \"\"purgeWallXLength\"\" : 30.0,\n \"\"raftAligned\"\" : true,\n \"\"raftBaseAngle\"\" : 0.0,\n \"\"raftBaseDensity\"\" : 0.6999999880790710,\n \"\"raftBaseLayers\"\" : 1,\n \"\"raftBaseRunGapRatio\"\" : 0.8000000119209290,\n \"\"raftBaseRunLength\"\" : 15.0,\n \"\"raftBaseThickness\"\" : 0.3000000119209290,\n \"\"raftBaseWidth\"\" : 2.50,\n \"\"raftExtraOffset\"\" : 0.0,\n \"\"raftFillProfiles\"\" : {},\n \"\"raftInterfaceAngle\"\" : 45.0,\n \"\"raftInterfaceDensity\"\" : 0.3000000119209290,\n \"\"raftInterfaceLayers\"\" : 1,\n \"\"raftInterfaceThickness\"\" : 0.2700000107288361,\n \"\"raftInterfaceWidth\"\" : 0.4000000059604645,\n \"\"raftModelSpacing\"\" : 0.3499999940395355,\n \"\"raftOutset\"\" : 4.0,\n \"\"raftSurfaceAngle\"\" : 0.0,\n \"\"raftSurfaceLayers\"\" : 3,\n \"\"raftSurfaceShellSpacingMultiplier\"\" : 0.6999999880790710,\n \"\"raftSurfaceShells\"\" : 2,\n \"\"raftSurfaceThickness\"\" : 0.1400000005960465,\n \"\"roofAnchorMargin\"\" : 0.40,\n \"\"roofSolidThickness\"\" : 0,\n \"\"roofSurfaceThickness\"\" : 0,\n \"\"roofThickness\"\" : 1.0,\n \"\"shellsLeakyConnections\"\" : false,\n \"\"solidFillOrientationInterval\"\" : 90,\n \"\"solidFillOrientationOffset\"\" : -45,\n \"\"solidFillOrientationRange\"\" : 90,\n \"\"sparseInfillPattern\"\" : \"\"hexagonal\"\",\n \"\"splitMinimumDistance\"\" : 0.40,\n \"\"spurOverlap\"\" : 0.0010,\n \"\"startGcode\"\" : \"\"\"\",\n \"\"startPosition\"\" : {\n \"\"x\"\" : -112,\n \"\"y\"\" : -73.0,\n \"\"z\"\" : 0\n },\n \"\"supportAligned\"\" : false,\n \"\"supportAngle\"\" : 30.0,\n \"\"supportDensity\"\" : 0.2000000029802322,\n \"\"supportExcessive\"\" : false,\n \"\"supportExtraDistance\"\" : 0.50,\n \"\"supportFillProfiles\"\" : {},\n \"\"supportLayerHeight\"\" : 0.2000000029802322,\n \"\"supportLeakyConnections\"\" : false,\n \"\"supportModelSpacing\"\" : 0.2000000029802322,\n \"\"supportRoofModelSpacing\"\" : 0.4000000059604645,\n \"\"thickLayerThreshold\"\" : 0,\n \"\"thickLayerVolumeMultiplier\"\" : 1,\n \"\"travelSpeedXY\"\" : 150.0,\n \"\"travelSpeedZ\"\" : 23.0,\n \"\"version\"\" : \"\"3.9.4\"\"\n }\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n3696,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user802599,2.1782824847157594,5.93478875628566,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,What g-code commands tell the printer to change nozzle on a dual extruder printer?,\"I have been playing around with creating scripts to generate some custom g-code for a malyan M180 and I am having trouble understand what commands to use to switch nozzles. Sometimes I can get the nozzles to switch and it doesn't recenter but sometimes it does. \nI have been using:\n\nG54\nM108 T0; switch to left\n\n\nand\n\nG55\nM108 T1; switch to right\n\n\nHas anyone else looked into this and have any idea what commands or sequence of commands should be used to change nozzles?\n\",Davo,\"No, M108 does not do that. You are looking for T#, where # is the tool position you want:\n\nT1 ; switch to tool position 1 \n\nT3 ; switch to tool position 3 \n\n\nThis tells the processor to send all heating, cooling and flow commands to this tool until another tool change is specified, and invokes the X/Y(/Z) offset for the new tool position.\n\nSee http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#T:_Select_Tool\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3711,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user802599,3.267423727073639,3.5909472313636615,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,-1.3276579603156529,Are there many assembly type 3D printers?,\"I am wondering if anyone here knows of any 3D printers that work by assembling models from parts instead of extruding or setting material.\n\nThe closest I have found is the pixelstone but it appears to only be a prototype and I haven't seen or heard of any progress on it in over a year.\n\nThere is a similar house printer fastbrick but it is also just a prototype.\n\nThere is research papers on rapid prototyping with lego blocks and software for this (brickify), but these don't have machine assembly.\n\nAnd there are 3D printers that can do conductive filament in the model but none of these seem to do pick and place as well and they still need a human to add the electronics or to change the tool head. (firepick)\n\nSo are there any 3D printers that work like pick and place machines and just stick blocks together?\n\",Andre Hamman,\"I've prototyped a design that used beads similar to these http://www.infostir.com/images/plastic-beads-350.jpg on a rod with a heated tip and then you just press them off into the design. But it wasn't too strong and had some pretty specific requirements of the model. Labelled it a failure. \n\",-2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3711,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user802599,3.267423727073639,3.5909472313636615,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,-1.3276579603156529,Are there many assembly type 3D printers?,\"I am wondering if anyone here knows of any 3D printers that work by assembling models from parts instead of extruding or setting material.\n\nThe closest I have found is the pixelstone but it appears to only be a prototype and I haven't seen or heard of any progress on it in over a year.\n\nThere is a similar house printer fastbrick but it is also just a prototype.\n\nThere is research papers on rapid prototyping with lego blocks and software for this (brickify), but these don't have machine assembly.\n\nAnd there are 3D printers that can do conductive filament in the model but none of these seem to do pick and place as well and they still need a human to add the electronics or to change the tool head. (firepick)\n\nSo are there any 3D printers that work like pick and place machines and just stick blocks together?\n\",Trish,\"Yes and no:\n\nYes, there are machines, that assemble things from parts. For example, SMT placement equipment & pick-and-place-machines. Almost all electronics are made this way. In fact, a lot of items are made by using Pick-and-Place machines in the final assembly.\n\nOn the other hand: No, there is no 3D-printer, that works by just being a P&P machine: it simply is not inside the specifications of additive manufacturing to be just an assembly machine. That is an assembly or pick and place machine, no matter if they call it printing. It is not.\n\nHowever, I have seen a recent makerfaire video and a talk that was showing a prototype of an E3D toolhead swapper, which - in its idea - would allow to combine a 3D printer with a P&P machine. Their idea is to fully automate the manufacturing process, including adding non-printed parts with grabbers or the like.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5087,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user802599,1.726248027126092,4.726144814090859,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,\"Prusa Mk3 filament detection sensor, can you access the image data?\",\"I have seen that the new Prusa Mk3 design has a optical mouse sensor that can be used to detect if the filament jams. Optical mouse sensors are just a really low resolution camera with no color.\nI am interested in finding out if it is possible to get access to the image data coming from that sensor? \nCould I add a rgb led and interpolate the filament color by comparing pixel intensity under different lighting conditions?\nAnd I was interested in seeing if the image data could be used to measure the filament width?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"\n I am interested in finding out if it is possible to get access to the image data coming from that sensor? And I was interested in seeing if the image data could be used to measure the filament width?\n\n\nNo. The sensor is the PAT9125EL. The only output it provides is the movement in the X and Y directions. There is no way to get image data out of it.\n\n\n Could I add a rgb led and interpolate the filament color by comparing pixel intensity under different lighting conditions\n\n\nNo. The sensor uses laser light of a specific wavelength. It's likely not sensitive to any other wavelengths. On a positive note, there is an \"\"average frame brightness\"\" register that can be read from the chip, but I don't think it's likely to work with RGB LEDs.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n5807,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user802599,3.267423727073639,4.756328054196236,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Run custom code between g-code commands?,\"I would like to be able to add custom commands/script to be executed during a print.\n\nFor example I would like to write some software to take a picture check the print hasn't moved off the bead between layers. \n\nDoes anyone know if any of the available software/firmware allows custom scripts or calling back to the computer before continuing printing?\n\nI am happy to build/buy a new printer if anyone knows a control board that has this sort of feature. \n\",profesor79,\"One of the solutions could be adding a layer change script (simplifi3d has that out of the box) and then using marlin firmware you could set a value to digital pin that could triger external actions.\n\n\n Layer Change G-Code: I personally haven't had to use this, but I'm\n sure that there are some excellent reasons/ideas to use for this. If\n you'd like for a G-Code script to be inserted in-between each layer,\n than you can simply place it in this tab. One interesting use of this,\n is for the FlashForge Dreamer, to have the lights blink in between\n each layer, however that can be a bit too much at times! \n\n\nThe syntax for the M42 command is: M42 S(value to be written to pin) P (pin number) e.g. To set digital pin 30 high, you would use M42 S1 P30\n\n\n The MARLIN firmware will not enable you to change the status / write\n values to any of the pins in use for things such as the heaters,\n thermistors, end stops etc. The command will let you send values other\n than 0 and 1 to any pins which can output analogue values. (0-255)\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5807,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user802599,3.267423727073639,4.756328054196236,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Run custom code between g-code commands?,\"I would like to be able to add custom commands/script to be executed during a print.\n\nFor example I would like to write some software to take a picture check the print hasn't moved off the bead between layers. \n\nDoes anyone know if any of the available software/firmware allows custom scripts or calling back to the computer before continuing printing?\n\nI am happy to build/buy a new printer if anyone knows a control board that has this sort of feature. \n\",0scar,\"A solution I use involves a 3d print server. I have defined shell scripts that address the GPIO ports of the Raspberry Pi that runs OctoPrint. OctoPrint is a 3d print server that can be accessed over your home network.\n\nFrom the OctoPrint homepage:\n\n\n OctoPrint is the snappy web interface for your 3D printer that allows\n you to control and monitor all aspects of your printer and print jobs,\n right from your browser.\n\n\nThis print server application allows for specification of custom Gcode commands (linked to system commands for instance; note this is a plug-in called \"\"GCODE Systems Commands\"\", see image below). \n\nAs an example, e.g. OCTO100 is scheduled to run fan_on.sh shell script. This script in its turn drives a relay to switch the annoying extruder cooling fan that is always on when the printer is powered. These codes can then be used throughout your sliced file to do stuff you want (e.g. by using the TweakAtZ plugin of Cura). E.g. my extruder fan will stay on several minutes before it is scheduled off after a successful print through OCTO110 which in itself runs the script fan_off.sh.\n\n\n\nThe scripts from the figure could be setup to schedule to do something, e.g. fan_on.sh controls a relay using port 22 of the GPIO of the Raspberry PI:\n\n#!/bin/bash\ngpio export 22 out\ngpio -g write 22 0\n\n\nSo to disable the fan you would need fan_off.sh to be:\n\n#!/bin/bash\ngpio export 22 out\ngpio -g write 22 1\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3698,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,laundmo,2.528907649931287,3.4776007666316793,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"Reprap Ormerod 2 Duet web control not automatically starting, how can I fix?\",\"I have an Ormerod 2 which is controlled by an Duet board with original up to date firmware. When I power it on and try to use the web interface (web control) it seems to not have started. When I connect my printer to my laptop and use Pronterface (printer interface) to send t0 to the printer it replies \n\nStarting network...\nRepRapFirmware is up and running.\nStarting DHCP\nNetwork up, IP=censored\n\nwhich leads me to the conclusion that the printer isn't starting its firmware and the web interface before that. \nAfter sending t0 and waiting 10sec for these replies it works fine.\n\nEvery source says it should start automatically.\n\nSo my question is how do I fix that? or what even is the problem?\n\nThanks in advance.\n\nEDIT: For everyone wondering: One time I let the printer sit powered on for ~1h before trying to connect and use Pronterface, same story as above.\n\",amra,\"First thing I would do is to update firmware to the newest version: https://github.com/dc42/RepRapFirmware/releases\n\nSee details on Duet wiki page: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide#Section_Updating_Firmware_and_Duet_Web_Control\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3700,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,C.Wyatt,1.726248027126092,3.1584864133350328,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Can functional hinges be built with food printer?,\"In trying to understand 3D printers, I have watched some YouTube videos where the crafters make items with hinges. That in itself blows my mind. It is hard to grasp how something with moving parts can be printed. But specifically I am wondering if the concept can be extended to food printers to make, for example, a sugar or chocolate telescoping lollipop (sucker)?\n\",tbm0115,\"I don't know much about food printers. But at the very least, you should be able to print similar moving parts like hinges as you would with a standard FDM printer.\n\nWhen printing things like hinges with a single extruder printer, the machine will typically be configured to include support structures. This is basically very thin scaffolding that higher layers of the print can sit on.\n\nAs Tom van der Zanden pointed out, though, this highly depends on the food medium you wish to use. With plastic, the material is heated to a less than liquid point, usually allowing the material to \"\"bridge\"\" across gaps. If your food medium is too thin (or close to liquid) you will not be able to effectively print supports as the medium will fall between the gaps.\n\nIf you are able to effectively print the supports for overhanging features, you should be able to knock off the supports with a small knife or toothpick. If it's a moving part, sometimes \"\"shimmying\"\" the part will knock the supports off.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3700,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,C.Wyatt,1.726248027126092,3.1584864133350328,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Can functional hinges be built with food printer?,\"In trying to understand 3D printers, I have watched some YouTube videos where the crafters make items with hinges. That in itself blows my mind. It is hard to grasp how something with moving parts can be printed. But specifically I am wondering if the concept can be extended to food printers to make, for example, a sugar or chocolate telescoping lollipop (sucker)?\n\",StarWind0,\"When I was looking at your question I thought it was impossible But a bit of research shows a resounding yes. If one looks at what Hershey can do, I see no reason why you could not printer a hinge. \n\nHershey Tech crunch\n\nAlso keep in mind this is pretty fragile..\n\nYou can take a powder printer that uses sugar as its base and a simple binder, maybe water. Tada you have advanced hinges and the like.\nHere is Candy Fab open source Candy printer.\n\nThere are lots of ways people are doing this. Here is a SLS version where they just melt the chocolate with a laser..\nSLS candy printer\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3702,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Luca Daidone,0.0,4.223775395021729,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Arduino 3D printer sketch,\"I'm building an automatic warehouse system using three NEMA 17 stepper motor. \n\nMy problem is to move the motors with precision, since I do not have any kind of encoder on the motor and so I cannot know the position of the axes. I thought that the system could be similar to a 3D printer, since neither 3d printers have encoder on the motor. \n\nWhere can I find a sketch for Arduino of a 3D printer, to understand how they work? How do they move with such precision without any kind of sensor?\n\",Mikhail Z,\"[For now] most of the open source 3d printer firmware written for Arduino-based hardware. This means you can just download the source and look through the relevant pieces of code.\n\nMarlin is the most obvious example.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3702,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Luca Daidone,0.0,4.223775395021729,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Arduino 3D printer sketch,\"I'm building an automatic warehouse system using three NEMA 17 stepper motor. \n\nMy problem is to move the motors with precision, since I do not have any kind of encoder on the motor and so I cannot know the position of the axes. I thought that the system could be similar to a 3D printer, since neither 3d printers have encoder on the motor. \n\nWhere can I find a sketch for Arduino of a 3D printer, to understand how they work? How do they move with such precision without any kind of sensor?\n\",mbmcavoy,\"A stepper motor is different from a typical electric motor. Instead of being \"\"on\"\" or \"\"off\"\", or running a some approximate variable speed, the controller sends a series of pulses to drive the motor one step at a time. This can be driven forward or backwards.\n\nBased on how the motor and machine is designed, the machine will move a tiny amount. If for example, one step moves , say 0.1mm. If you send 150 pulses in the forward direction, the machine will move 15.0mm If you then send another 8 pulses in the reverse direction, the machine will be 14.2mm from the starting point.\n\nTo know the absolute position, you need to establish the starting point. Most printers have limit switches at their \"\"home\"\" position. To initialize the position, drive the motor until it hits the switch, and then set position as zero.\n\nThen count the pulses up and down as you send them, you will will keep track of the machine's position.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n3703,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Samul,1.0891412423578797,4.0129394960221205,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Ugly 3D printing with high precision,\"I am a totally beginner at 3D printing and I have this question: I see many 3D printers (at amazon) with Z precision as low as 0.1mm! To me that's amazing but what does not amaze me is this: when I see the printed objects of those 3D printers you can easily with naked eye see the \"\"vertical steps\"\". How?\n\nA precision of 0.1mm should be really almost impossible to see. If a person printed using 0.1mm precision how can I see the vertical steps?\n\nI know there are some smoothin techniques to make the surface better but that shouldnt even be needed if the printer actually printed at 0.1mm in the first case.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The 0.1mm refers to the thickness of each layer. However, it does not say anything regarding:\n\n\nHow precise the layers are in the XY plane\nHow precisely each layer is aligned with the previous in the XY plane\nHow consistent the extrusion is: are all the layers printed with a consistent line thickness\n\n\nNo matter how fine the layers (and these printers that you refer to can definitely print 0.1mm layers just fine); if they're not well-aligned with each other, or the filament extrudes inconsistently, you're going to see the layer lines. It takes a rigid printer, with low-play bearings, a well-calibrated extruder and filament with a consistent diameter to get smooth-looking prints (but you will always see some layering, especially if you look up close). Also, since filament is extruded in a round shape, the sides of the object are not perfectly flat, but consists of many small arcs, which makes it easier to see the layer lines.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n3742,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Samul,2.8153892694839717,6.525068272000242,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,3.929104701733314,3.082726318457765,How many grams will be used in a print,\"I have an STL file and I would like to know how many grams would this print consume. Is there a software so I can get it or an online link that can say me that?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"You can not tell this by looking at the STL file alone, because how much material will be used depends on the print settings (obviously, printing at 100% infill will consume much more material than 10%).\n\nThe best way to check the material usage is to load the model into a slicer and slice it using your preferred settings. Most slicers will report the projected material usage, often in grams but sometimes in meters of filament (but the two figures are easily converted between each other if you know the density and diameter of your material).\n\nHere is an example in the Cura slicer:\n\n\n\nSimplify3D (after you click \"\"prepare to print!\"\") also shows you the projected print time and material usage and even the cost of the material (if you have previously entered the material cost per kilogram):\n\n\n\",3.367452517504837,2.0769199823829045\n3742,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Samul,2.8153892694839717,6.525068272000242,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,3.929104701733314,3.082726318457765,How many grams will be used in a print,\"I have an STL file and I would like to know how many grams would this print consume. Is there a software so I can get it or an online link that can say me that?\n\",Thomas Weller,\"Slic3r will calculate the weight after you have exported the G-Code.\n\nNormally, you'll only see the \"\"Info\"\" box. But after saving as G-Code, there's a \"\"Sliced Info\"\" which mentions the weight according to the settings you made (filament type and infill).\n\nThat's how it looks like:\n\n\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n3804,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Samul,1.0891412423578797,4.27336973029714,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,1.7550683581421125,Best gear STL to print with ABS,\"I spent the last days trying to make the best gears I could but they are not \"\"smooth\"\" nor good. I searched at thingverse with \"\"gear\"\" but I see no set of gears. I would like someone to point me a good set of gears (with 5, 10, 15... teeth for example) so I can use this STL file with Google Sketchup.\n\nDo you guys know any good matching gears that I could print?\n\nI will be using this gear in a fast spinning matching so it would be nice these gears to be well designed to support some fast moving.\n\nAlso, I think in my case I would like to use gears with this shape (the white gear). Any idea why is this gear design better than the usual? \n\",mbmcavoy,\"This type of gear is known as a \"\"herringbone\"\" gear. A traditional straight-cut gear is strong, but can cause more vibration as each tooth engages and disengages. A helical gear (slanted tooth) reduces that vibration as the tooth engagement is more uniform. However the angle of the teeth causes a sideways force that may be undesired. A herringbone tooth design effectively cancels the sideways forces but gets the uniform tooth engagement.\n\nA search for \"\"herringbone\"\" on Thingiverse comes up with many gears of this type.\n\nRegarding the quality, if you are not happy with the results of your own design, that's OK - gears are shockingly complex, and people make careers of gear design! However, if you have a good CAD model that just isn't printing well, it's not likely a bad STL.\n\nAn STL from a different source is likely to have similar quality with the same slicer/printer setup. You might be able to improve print quality of your design by changing settings on your slicer or adjusting your printer. I'd suggest asking a question with your current setup and specific print quality issues.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n3804,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Samul,1.0891412423578797,4.27336973029714,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,1.7550683581421125,Best gear STL to print with ABS,\"I spent the last days trying to make the best gears I could but they are not \"\"smooth\"\" nor good. I searched at thingverse with \"\"gear\"\" but I see no set of gears. I would like someone to point me a good set of gears (with 5, 10, 15... teeth for example) so I can use this STL file with Google Sketchup.\n\nDo you guys know any good matching gears that I could print?\n\nI will be using this gear in a fast spinning matching so it would be nice these gears to be well designed to support some fast moving.\n\nAlso, I think in my case I would like to use gears with this shape (the white gear). Any idea why is this gear design better than the usual? \n\",marshal craft,\"As for high speed gear ideas why don't you design your own if there aren't any good ones. I will admit sometimes there will be surprising lack of content in some areas and I dont know what you expect, sometimes you do have to do some things your self to bridge the gaps. Maybe try looking into automobile transmission or even jet engines which use two shafts for high speed compressor and low speed fans. Jet engines spin pretty fast over 35k RPM. They may end up using a planetary gear I would think, the forces are well balanced. But you haven't said the purpose of this gear, is it power transmission on separate parallel axis? Speed reduction/change? In engineering, structurally things which use pointy edges can perform poorly under stress, the stress is highly focused geometrically. Instead if manufacturing constraints and design volume allows it, rounded, chamfered, or filleted edges reduce high stress points. Also adding material distributes loads where possible. Smaller teeth may increase vibration frequency but reduce amplitude. Ideally you would want to minimize the relative velocities of the contacting surfaces to reduce waisted force from friction converting to heat. Also heat can reduce strength and increase wear, decreasing life span of the gear.\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3872,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Samul,2.528907649931287,3.293352546145431,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.5532602411371876,Difficulty getting good precision,\"I have a reprap printer with 0.3mm nozzle. It prints quite well, I am really surprised with quality of all the surfaces and the general precision of the parts printed. BUT I HAVE a problem: when making (for example) a 10mm x 10mm x 10mm cube with a 2.8mm diameter hole from top to bottom (to fit a screw) after I print it gets a size of 3mm diameter.\n\nI know this is related to extrusion width but cant the slicer software (I am using s3d) know that it is using a specific extrusion width and compensate for that in order to get the diamter right?\n\nOBS: this printer is supposed to get 0.05mm precision.\n\",Nir,\"Simplify3D has a feature that makes holes a little bigger or smaller (for adjusting tolerances).\n\nI don't remember what it's called, I think it's something-offset (if someone can help me with this in the comments I'll update the answer).\n\nIt's possible your silcer is set to enlarge the holes and the printer is just fine.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3872,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Samul,2.528907649931287,3.293352546145431,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.5532602411371876,Difficulty getting good precision,\"I have a reprap printer with 0.3mm nozzle. It prints quite well, I am really surprised with quality of all the surfaces and the general precision of the parts printed. BUT I HAVE a problem: when making (for example) a 10mm x 10mm x 10mm cube with a 2.8mm diameter hole from top to bottom (to fit a screw) after I print it gets a size of 3mm diameter.\n\nI know this is related to extrusion width but cant the slicer software (I am using s3d) know that it is using a specific extrusion width and compensate for that in order to get the diamter right?\n\nOBS: this printer is supposed to get 0.05mm precision.\n\",Ecnerwal,\"For one thing, the entire part generally shrinks, as it's printed (at whatever precision of nozzle location) as molten plastic, and then cools and solidifies.\n\nGiven that you are getting a bigger hole in the finished part, I'd start by measuring the part's actual overall outside size, as printed (is that 10mm, or might it be 10.5 or 11mm?), and suspect some calibration tweaks are needed.\n\nIf the outside of the cube is actually 10mm, then you may simply need to find the right fudge-factor for hole sizing - if 2.8 is becoming 3, you might need 2.65 to get 2.8 as printed - or 2.63, or...\n\nAlternatively, plan for drilling when a precision hole is needed, and print a deliberately undersized hole with a thick shell so it can be drilled out precisely.\n\",0.0,0.0\n3705,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,3Dmaurizio,2.1782824847157594,4.185581311099118,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,\"3D printer test troubles (M999 error, motors do not move)\",\"I've been recently building a 3D printer and I'm having issues testing it.\n\nThis is my hardware:\n\n\nRAMPS 1.4\nArduino Mega 2560\n4x Pololu Motor shields A4988\n1x Nema 17 extruder\n2x floppy stepper motor\n1x DVD stepper motor\nGeneric hotend with 0,4 mm nozzle\n\n\nThen I assembled everything and I started testing... I tried the RAMPS test code and it didn't work (motors did not move, but I'm sure they are OK), then I tried using Marlin and Pronterface; it showed hotend temperature stuck at 150°C, but the hotend was not hot. Moreover the motors would not move.\n\nI also tried Repetier host and it returned an M999 error without any further explanation.\n\nI had no problem installing firmware on the Arduino and the fan of the hotend is working. I also tried changing baud rate but it seemed not to work.\n\",Greenonline,\"Two immediate issues I can think of are:\n\n\nDo the floppy drive and DVD drive stepper motors have sufficient torque to turn whatever you have connected them to? You don't say what sort of printer you have built, but a holding toque of 44 N·cm (62oz·in, 4.5kg·cm) or more, is desirable. Maybe you should consider upgrading your floppy ad DVD drive motors to Nema 17 motors... See RepRapWiki - Nema 17 for more details.\nDo you have the correct thermistor selected in the firmware? Check your firmware configuration file.\n\n\nTo further check the thermistor, disconnect it from the RAMPS board, and using a multimeter, check its resistance at room temperature. Then compare it with the temperature characteristic graph of your thermistor type. A general 10K thermistor has the following response curve (source):\n\n\n\nDoes the reading that your multimeter gives, seem reasonable?\n\nAlso check the RAMPS thermistor input, by shorting the thermistor pins on the RAMPS board (using a jumper). What is the temperature reading now? It should be whatever MAX_TEMP is defined as, typically around 400°C. Again, check your firmware configuration file.\n\n\n\nIn addition, M999 is not an error, but a command used to reset the firmware/printer, after an error has occurred.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3710,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tyler,3.0576060275493275,5.0660741076114055,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,1.3276579603156529,Should you use hairspray on a metal bed 3D printer?,\"I've heard that using hairspray is useful for keeping the 3D objects from peeling off of the bed, but every example I have seen where someone uses hairspray, they use it on a glass bed.\n\nIs it okay to use it on a metal bed as well?\n\",cmm,\"I have a home-brew printer with a 3/8\"\" thick solid aluminum heated bed. The bed is bare, with no additional tape, plastic film, or glass. For PLA I use purple Elmers glue stick or Aqua Net hairspray directly on the aluminum. For ABS I use acetone/ABS solution.\n\nYes, it is OK to use hairspray on an aluminum metal bed.\n\",0.0,0.0\n3710,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tyler,3.0576060275493275,5.0660741076114055,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,1.3276579603156529,Should you use hairspray on a metal bed 3D printer?,\"I've heard that using hairspray is useful for keeping the 3D objects from peeling off of the bed, but every example I have seen where someone uses hairspray, they use it on a glass bed.\n\nIs it okay to use it on a metal bed as well?\n\",0scar,\"I have been using a sort of a very strong hairspray called 3DLAC for about 2 years directly onto the aluminium heat bed of the Anet A8 printer I have.\n\nBasically, all those sprays contain copolymer constituents, PVA (PolyVinyl Alcohol), Vinyl or Acetate. These are also found in certain glue sticks or wood glues. For me this spray works perfectly! On day one I assembled the printer, the paper tape tore and I was too anxious to wait for new tape to arrive. This worked so well that I have not changed it for that printer.\n\nCleaning is very easy as PVA or any of those constituents are solvable in water, so a moist cloth or paper towel over the plate is all to clean it. Furthermore, you do not require to spray before every print. \n\nTo answer your question if you should use a PVA based spray like hairspray directly onto the metal build plate is a matter of preference, but you definitely could use it as I have been doing it for about 2 years.\n\n\n\nTo address the comments:\nI spray the heat bed platform whilst it is attached to the printer. I do pull it forward and gently spray the bed or just the location where the print is going to be build. Note that you do not need to do that for every print. I recently did notice very little spray on the X guide rods (maybe I have been careless once or twice), but that has not been a problem for my Chinesium iGus ripoff plastic bearings. It is very easy to clean with a damp cloth. It also works great on the glass bed of my Ultimaker 3E, but I usually (unless when I'm lazy ;) ) remove the slate of glass before printing. You could consider shielding the rods with a piece of paper, but it has not been necessary for 2 years.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n3713,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user6365,1.726248027126092,4.355894654629684,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,\"Is it possible to print an object that has a \"\"roof\"\" without anything under it?\",\"I recently bought a 3d printer and right now i am printing a normal cube just to try it out. However I was wondering, when it has the last part left of the printing where it needs to create the roof, how will the filament stay there and not just fall down as there is nothing underneath?\n\nWill I need to check the \"\"Support\"\" function in the print-settings before hand or is there something else i need to do?\n\nThanks a lot for the help/tips!\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"If you are printing a solid cube with infill, then the infill will support the \"\"roof\"\".\n\nIf you are printing a hollow cube, then indeed, you should enable \"\"support\"\" to print a support structure under any overhangs.\n\nDepending on the angle, you may not need supports. Generally, FDM printers can print overhanging structures up to 45 degrees without the need for supports. The steeper (i.e. further from parallel with the print bed) the angle, the better the result.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3713,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user6365,1.726248027126092,4.355894654629684,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,\"Is it possible to print an object that has a \"\"roof\"\" without anything under it?\",\"I recently bought a 3d printer and right now i am printing a normal cube just to try it out. However I was wondering, when it has the last part left of the printing where it needs to create the roof, how will the filament stay there and not just fall down as there is nothing underneath?\n\nWill I need to check the \"\"Support\"\" function in the print-settings before hand or is there something else i need to do?\n\nThanks a lot for the help/tips!\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Sometimes a \"\"roof\"\" can be accomplished using the bridging feature of the printer. Depending on your slicer and on your printer's capabilities, the filament can extend from one edge of a structure to another without using support. The slicer will \"\"recognize\"\" the endpoints and the distance between and speed up the travel and possibly increase the fan cooling, allowing minimal sag between points. There are resources available on many model sites to print bridging test pieces to help determine the limits of your printer.\n\nExpect some sag on the first layer, with a reduction for each successive layer. If you have, for example, five layers for the top faces, the last of the five may cover the sag of the previous ones.\n\nSupport is commonly used when there is no opposing endpoint to handle the bridging or when the distance exceeds the capabilities of the printer.\n\nAn example of a bridging test piece can be found on Thingiverse, although there are many to be found with a simple search.\n\n\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n3728,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Noah Cristino,3.267423727073639,5.067324874728812,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.771436658049143,Identifying the plastic type of an unknown spool of filament or recyclable waste,\"Is there any way to test what kind your filament is? There are no labels on the spools and I don't know whether they are ABS or PLA.\n\nI got the plastic with the printer, which is no longer sold (Solidoodle 2). Since I bought it on eBay that is probably why it has unprofessional filament. The plastic filament came with the printer which is now off sale (Solidoodle v2).\n\nI set my extruder to 210 °C and bed to 50 °C and it printed fine (with tons of hairspray and painters tape).\n\nI figured out where I got it. I got it from Solidoodle (who have gone out of business) when I bought the Solidoodle 2 right after it came out. \n\nI bought PLA and ABS so it has to be one of the two. Any other ways without having to burn and smell plastic? I just have the roll with no numbers, works or anything on it. And how to I smell without breathing in the fumes?\n\",Diesel,\"ABS dissolves in acetone, you could try clipping a small section and leave it in some acetone for a few minutes and if it begins to dissolve it's safe to assume that it's ABS, if not then you'll know that it's not.\n\nThis won't confirm that it is PLA, only whether it's ABS or not.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n3728,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Noah Cristino,3.267423727073639,5.067324874728812,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.771436658049143,Identifying the plastic type of an unknown spool of filament or recyclable waste,\"Is there any way to test what kind your filament is? There are no labels on the spools and I don't know whether they are ABS or PLA.\n\nI got the plastic with the printer, which is no longer sold (Solidoodle 2). Since I bought it on eBay that is probably why it has unprofessional filament. The plastic filament came with the printer which is now off sale (Solidoodle v2).\n\nI set my extruder to 210 °C and bed to 50 °C and it printed fine (with tons of hairspray and painters tape).\n\nI figured out where I got it. I got it from Solidoodle (who have gone out of business) when I bought the Solidoodle 2 right after it came out. \n\nI bought PLA and ABS so it has to be one of the two. Any other ways without having to burn and smell plastic? I just have the roll with no numbers, works or anything on it. And how to I smell without breathing in the fumes?\n\",R..,\"I know this question is old, but the existing answers are all overly general relative to the question. If someone is in OP's same sitution, the \"\"prints at 210/50\"\" data point pretty much guarantees it's PLA. No subjective \"\"smell tests\"\" or playing with fire needed.\n\nThe comments indicated some doubt that it's PLA due to lack of \"\"sweet\"\" odor, but PLA has very little odor at all, and whether you'd describe it as \"\"sweet\"\" probably varies by individual.\n\nAside from \"\"PLA\"\" (usually blends of PLA of smallish amounts of proprietary ingredients), there's virtually nothing on the filament market that prints at these temperatures, especially not without adhesion and warping problems. TPU/TPE can also print at these temperatures, but you'd usually know if that's what you had just from the flexibility. These properties of PLA are largely why PLA is so popular.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3732,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,uwe,3.0576060275493275,5.850933422853458,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.548335113978322,1.0718911890698015,\"Cura 2.4 missing \"\"split object into parts\"\"\",\"I have an stl with multiple parts that I want to split up. Cura 15 had an option to \"\"split object into parts\"\" but I can't find that in cura 2.4. Did it get removed?\n\",Eagl3,\"I don't think this feature was implemented at all with Cura v2.x. \n\nAs the developers say on the v2.1 release, \"\"Cura has been completely reengineered\"\". \n\nFinding proper changelog documentation appears to be pretty hard because they have not posted any actual changelogs except the \"\"user friendly viewable\"\" changelogs which only list additions of new features but don't display what everything they changed between each version of their application.\n\nHere is the most complete changelog I could find. I do not see any mention of this feature. https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software/release-notes \n\nGoing through the Cura 2 manual or the Cura 2.1 FAQ, also does not mention this feature.\nhttps://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20406-installation-cura-2-1 \n\nFurthermore, searching around for version 2 \"\"split objects\"\" lead to forum posts of people suggesting to use some other software to achieve this specific task. If you decide to go this route, I recommend Meshmixer from Autodesk to manipulate your models and then export to STL and import them to Cura either as a whole new position set up or separate model files where you can change them there as you need to (meshmixer allows for object repositioning around a defined build plate so you can just import the whole assembly into cura and then print).\n\nIt might also be worth to put in a feature request on the UM forums.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n3732,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,uwe,3.0576060275493275,5.850933422853458,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.548335113978322,1.0718911890698015,\"Cura 2.4 missing \"\"split object into parts\"\"\",\"I have an stl with multiple parts that I want to split up. Cura 15 had an option to \"\"split object into parts\"\" but I can't find that in cura 2.4. Did it get removed?\n\",Nicolas,\"I think they removed it because it was inefficient (pretty slow). Still, I just started 3D printing and was a bit disappointed a seemingly easy task needed an other software (Meshmixer) to be achieved.\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3733,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,JustMe,0.0,3.3206222047196907,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Extruder temp is too high,\"I am using Simplify3d software to print my first object, I set the temp to 230, but I notice that the temp some times reaches to 300 c, any help, here is temp plot\n\nhere is the communication code of last process\n\nSENT: G1 X190.134 Y143.078 E11.6837\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X175.230 Y157.981 E12.6300\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X175.239 Y158.007 E12.6312\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X175.399 Y158.378 E12.6494\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X190.541 Y143.236 E13.6109\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X190.928 Y143.415 E13.6301\nREAD: ok T:224 @:193 B:0\nSENT: G1 X175.569 Y158.774 E14.6054\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X175.618 Y158.887 E14.6109\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X175.759 Y159.150 E14.6243\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X191.315 Y143.594 E15.6122\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X191.702 Y143.772 E15.6313\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X175.955 Y159.519 E16.6312\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X176.069 Y159.733 E16.6421\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X176.163 Y159.878 E16.6498\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X192.627 Y143.413 E17.6953\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X192.910 Y143.696 E17.7133\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok T:225 @:191 B:0\nSENT: G1 X176.384 Y160.222 E18.7627\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X176.588 Y160.538 E18.7796\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X176.608 Y160.564 E18.7810\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X193.283 Y143.889 E19.8398\nREAD: ok T:227 @:205 B:0\nSENT: G1 X193.869 Y143.868 E19.8662\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X176.854 Y160.883 E20.9467\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X177.100 Y161.203 E20.9648\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X194.403 Y143.900 E22.0636\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X194.520 Y143.918 E22.0689\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X194.728 Y143.970 E22.0785\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X194.854 Y144.014 E22.0845\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X177.362 Y161.507 E23.1953\nREAD: ok T:227 @:143 B:0\nSENT: G1 X177.631 Y161.804 E23.2132\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X195.239 Y144.196 E24.3314\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X195.313 Y144.239 E24.3352\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X195.460 Y144.347 E24.3434\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X195.562 Y144.438 E24.3495\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X177.909 Y162.091 E25.4705\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X178.202 Y162.364 E25.4885\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X195.825 Y144.741 E26.6075\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X195.862 Y144.792 E26.6103\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok T:231 @:120 B:0\nSENT: G1 X195.957 Y144.955 E26.6188\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.026 Y145.105 E26.6262\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X178.495 Y162.636 E27.7394\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X178.519 Y162.659 E27.7409\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X178.810 Y162.887 E27.7575\nREAD: ok T:233 @:146 B:0\nSENT: G1 X196.164 Y145.533 E28.8595\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.178 Y145.587 E28.8620\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.213 Y145.810 E28.8721\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.230 Y146.033 E28.8822\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X179.127 Y163.136 E29.9682\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X179.273 Y163.251 E29.9766\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X179.456 Y163.372 E29.9864\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.210 Y146.619 E31.0503\nREAD: ok T:236 @:97 B:0\nSENT: G1 X196.196 Y146.982 E31.0666\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.304 Y147.090 E31.0735\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X179.797 Y163.597 E32.1217\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X180.072 Y163.779 E32.1365\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X180.143 Y163.817 E32.1401\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.587 Y147.373 E33.1843\nREAD: ok T:235 @:88 B:0\nSENT: G1 X196.745 Y147.531 E33.1943\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.129 Y148.146 E33.2334\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.206 Y148.320 E33.2419\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X180.508 Y164.017 E34.2387\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X180.874 Y164.217 E34.2574\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.379 Y148.712 E35.2420\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.553 Y149.104 E35.2613\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X181.263 Y164.394 E36.2321\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X181.655 Y164.568 E36.2514\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.726 Y149.497 E37.2084\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok T:237 @:66 B:0\nSENT: G1 X196.793 Y149.648 E37.2158\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.882 Y149.906 E37.2281\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X182.065 Y164.723 E38.1690\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X182.485 Y164.869 E38.1889\nREAD: ok T:239 @:50 B:0\nSENT: G1 X197.027 Y150.327 E39.1124\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.106 Y150.555 E39.1232\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.159 Y150.761 E39.1328\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X182.919 Y165.001 E40.0370\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X183.368 Y165.117 E40.0578\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.274 Y151.211 E40.9409\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.344 Y151.484 E40.9535\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.376 Y151.675 E40.9622\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X183.834 Y165.217 E41.8221\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X184.317 Y165.299 E41.8441\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.457 Y152.159 E42.6785\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.503 Y152.430 E42.6908\nREAD: ok T:240 @:15 B:0\nSENT: G1 X197.522 Y152.660 E42.7012\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X184.819 Y165.363 E43.5078\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X185.340 Y165.408 E43.5313\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.566 Y153.182 E44.3077\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.583 Y153.385 E44.3169\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.584 Y153.730 E44.3323\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X185.889 Y165.425 E45.0750\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X186.453 Y165.427 E45.1003\nREAD: ok T:243 @:0 B:0\nSENT: G1 X197.584 Y154.295 E45.8071\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.584 Y154.344 E45.8094\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.538 Y154.907 E45.8347\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X187.065 Y165.380 E46.4997\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X187.435 Y165.350 E46.5164\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X187.705 Y165.306 E46.5287\nREAD: ok T:244 @:0 B:0\nSENT: G1 X197.465 Y155.546 E47.1484\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.352 Y156.225 E47.1793\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X188.382 Y165.195 E47.7489\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X189.137 Y165.005 E47.7839\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.163 Y156.980 E48.2935\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.113 Y157.176 E48.3026\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.893 Y157.814 E48.3329\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X189.970 Y164.738 E48.7725\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X190.047 Y164.712 E48.7762\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X190.214 Y164.653 E48.7841\nREAD: ok T:244 @:0 B:0\nSENT: G1 X190.935 Y164.339 E48.8194\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.496 Y158.778 E49.1726\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.415 Y158.961 E49.1816\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X195.958 Y159.804 E49.2246\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X195.812 Y160.027 E49.2366\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X192.188 Y163.651 E49.4668\nREAD: ok T:247 @:0 B:0\nSENT: G92 E0\nSENT: G1 E-1.0000 F1800\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X192.126 Y164.098 F3600\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 Z0.870 F1000\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 E0.0000 F1800\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G92 E0\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X191.259 Y164.568 E0.0443 F1875\nREAD: ok\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X190.356 Y164.963 E0.0886\nSENT: G1 X189.423 Y165.283 E0.1328\nREAD: ok\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X188.467 Y165.524 E0.1771\nREAD: ok T:249 @:0 B:0\nSENT: G1 X187.494 Y165.686 E0.2214\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X186.510 Y165.766 E0.2657\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X186.164 Y165.768 E0.2813\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X185.527 Y165.765 E0.3099\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X184.544 Y165.682 E0.3542\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X183.571 Y165.518 E0.3985\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X182.616 Y165.274 E0.4427\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X181.684 Y164.952 E0.4870\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X180.782 Y164.554 E0.5313\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X179.914 Y164.081 E0.5756\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X179.624 Y163.893 E0.5912\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X179.094 Y163.541 E0.6197\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X178.316 Y162.933 E0.6641\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X177.593 Y162.263 E0.7083\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X176.928 Y161.535 E0.7526\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X176.323 Y160.753 E0.7970\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X176.133 Y160.464 E0.8125\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X175.790 Y159.929 E0.8411\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X175.323 Y159.059 E0.8854\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.931 Y158.154 E0.9297\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.615 Y157.220 E0.9739\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nSENT: G1 X174.377 Y156.263 E1.0182\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.220 Y155.290 E1.0625\nREAD: ok\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.143 Y154.304 E1.1069\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.141 Y153.958 E1.1224\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.148 Y153.323 E1.1509\nREAD: ok T:250 @:0 B:0\nSENT: G1 X174.235 Y152.339 E1.1953\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.403 Y151.368 E1.2396\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.651 Y150.413 E1.2838\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.976 Y149.483 E1.3281\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X175.378 Y148.583 E1.3724\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X175.855 Y147.715 E1.4168\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X176.042 Y147.425 E1.4323\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X176.396 Y146.898 E1.4608\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X177.009 Y146.123 E1.5052\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X177.690 Y145.393 E1.5500\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X177.735 Y145.349 E1.5528\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X178.478 Y144.684 E1.5976\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X179.266 Y144.089 E1.6419\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X180.101 Y143.562 E1.6863\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X180.976 Y143.105 E1.7306\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X181.886 Y142.723 E1.7749\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X182.825 Y142.418 E1.8192\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X183.786 Y142.191 E1.8636\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X184.763 Y142.045 E1.9079\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X185.748 Y141.980 E1.9523\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X186.735 Y141.997 E1.9966\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X187.717 Y142.096 E2.0409\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X188.688 Y142.276 E2.0852\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X189.641 Y142.536 E2.1296\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X190.568 Y142.874 E2.1739\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X191.867 Y143.474 E2.2381\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X192.518 Y142.823 E2.2795\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X193.105 Y143.410 E2.3167\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X193.821 Y143.318 E2.3492\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X194.266 Y143.309 E2.3691\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X194.514 Y143.327 E2.3803\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X194.805 Y143.374 E2.3936\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X195.033 Y143.431 E2.4041\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X195.292 Y143.522 E2.4164\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X195.490 Y143.613 E2.4262\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X195.716 Y143.745 E2.4379\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X195.883 Y143.867 E2.4473\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.072 Y144.038 E2.4587\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.210 Y144.191 E2.4679\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.362 Y144.398 E2.4795\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.469 Y144.581 E2.4890\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.581 Y144.824 E2.5010\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.655 Y145.036 E2.5111\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.724 Y145.312 E2.5239\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.762 Y145.553 E2.5348\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.785 Y145.855 E2.5484\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.779 Y146.212 E2.5644\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.685 Y146.990 E2.5996\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.225 Y147.531 E2.6340\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.534 Y148.222 E2.6779\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.110 Y149.524 E2.7418\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.432 Y150.457 E2.7861\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.676 Y151.413 E2.8304\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.841 Y152.387 E2.8748\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.923 Y153.371 E2.9191\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.924 Y154.358 E2.9634\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.843 Y155.342 E3.0078\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.681 Y156.316 E3.0521\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.439 Y157.273 E3.0964\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.118 Y158.207 E3.1408\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.721 Y159.111 E3.1851\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.250 Y159.979 E3.2294\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X195.709 Y160.805 E3.2737\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X195.101 Y161.583 E3.3181\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X194.454 Y162.285 E3.3610\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X193.729 Y162.953 E3.4052\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X192.950 Y163.560 E3.4496\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X192.661 Y163.751 E3.4651\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X192.126 Y164.098 E3.4937\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X192.331 Y164.442 F3600\nSENT: G92 E0\nREAD: ok\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X191.434 Y164.927 E0.0458 F1250\nREAD: ok\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nSENT: G1 X190.501 Y165.336 E0.0915\nSENT: G1 X189.537 Y165.667 E0.1373\nREAD: ok\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X188.549 Y165.916 E0.1830\nREAD: ok T:252 @:0 B:0\nSENT: G1 X187.543 Y166.083 E0.2288\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X186.527 Y166.166 E0.2746\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X186.164 Y166.168 E0.2909\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X185.509 Y166.165 E0.3203\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X184.493 Y166.079 E0.3661\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X183.488 Y165.909 E0.4118\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X182.501 Y165.657 E0.4576\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X181.538 Y165.324 E0.5034\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X180.606 Y164.913 E0.5491\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X179.710 Y164.425 E0.5949\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X179.405 Y164.228 E0.6112\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X178.859 Y163.866 E0.6406\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X178.057 Y163.237 E0.6864\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X177.309 Y162.545 E0.7321\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X176.621 Y161.793 E0.7779\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X175.998 Y160.986 E0.8237\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X175.798 Y160.683 E0.8400\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X175.445 Y160.131 E0.8694\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.963 Y159.233 E0.9152\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.557 Y158.298 E0.9609\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.231 Y157.333 E1.0067\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X173.985 Y156.344 E1.0524\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X173.822 Y155.338 E1.0982\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X173.743 Y154.321 E1.1440\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X173.741 Y153.958 E1.1603\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X173.749 Y153.303 E1.1897\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X173.838 Y152.287 E1.2355\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.012 Y151.283 E1.2812\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.268 Y150.297 E1.3270\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.604 Y149.335 E1.3727\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X175.019 Y148.404 E1.4185\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X175.511 Y147.510 E1.4643\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X175.708 Y147.206 E1.4806\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X176.073 Y146.663 E1.5100\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X176.705 Y145.862 E1.5558\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X177.403 Y145.114 E1.6017\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X177.461 Y145.057 E1.6054\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X178.224 Y144.375 E1.6513\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X179.038 Y143.760 E1.6971\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X179.901 Y143.215 E1.7430\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X180.806 Y142.743 E1.7888\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X181.747 Y142.348 E1.8346\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X182.717 Y142.032 E1.8804\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X183.710 Y141.798 E1.9263\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X184.720 Y141.647 E1.9721\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X185.738 Y141.580 E2.0179\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X186.759 Y141.598 E2.0637\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X187.774 Y141.700 E2.1095\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X188.777 Y141.886 E2.1554\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X189.762 Y142.155 E2.2012\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X190.721 Y142.504 E2.2470\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X191.782 Y142.994 E2.2995\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X192.518 Y142.257 E2.3462\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nSENT: G1 X193.249 Y142.988 E2.3926\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X193.791 Y142.918 E2.4172\nREAD: ok\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X194.276 Y142.909 E2.4390\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X194.561 Y142.930 E2.4518\nREAD: ok T:252 @:0 B:0\nSENT: G1 X194.886 Y142.982 E2.4666\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X195.147 Y143.047 E2.4787\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X195.443 Y143.150 E2.4927\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X195.676 Y143.258 E2.5042\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X195.935 Y143.410 E2.5178\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.136 Y143.557 E2.5289\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.355 Y143.755 E2.5422\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.521 Y143.938 E2.5533\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.696 Y144.178 E2.5666\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.824 Y144.395 E2.5779\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.952 Y144.673 E2.5917\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.039 Y144.921 E2.6035\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.116 Y145.232 E2.6179\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.160 Y145.507 E2.6303\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.185 Y145.843 E2.6455\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.179 Y146.239 E2.6633\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.105 Y146.845 E2.6907\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.791 Y147.531 E2.7342\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.011 Y148.311 E2.7838\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.482 Y149.377 E2.8361\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.816 Y150.342 E2.8819\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X198.068 Y151.331 E2.9278\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X198.238 Y152.337 E2.9736\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X198.323 Y153.354 E3.0194\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X198.324 Y154.375 E3.0652\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X198.241 Y155.392 E3.1111\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X198.073 Y156.398 E3.1569\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.823 Y157.388 E3.2027\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.491 Y158.353 E3.2485\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.080 Y159.287 E3.2944\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.594 Y160.184 E3.3402\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.034 Y161.038 E3.3860\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X195.406 Y161.842 E3.4318\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X194.737 Y162.568 E3.4762\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X193.988 Y163.259 E3.5219\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X193.183 Y163.885 E3.5677\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X192.880 Y164.085 E3.5840\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X192.331 Y164.442 E3.6134\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X179.387 Y163.328 F3600\nSENT: G92 E0\nREAD: ok\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X176.574 Y160.515 E0.1786 F2000\nREAD: ok\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X176.418 Y160.279 E0.1914\nSENT: G1 X176.083 Y159.757 E0.2192\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X175.739 Y159.114 E0.2519\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X180.801 Y164.177 E0.5734\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X180.933 Y164.248 E0.5801\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X181.809 Y164.635 E0.6231\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X181.834 Y164.644 E0.6243\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X175.269 Y158.079 E1.0412\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X175.248 Y158.032 E1.0435\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.973 Y157.217 E1.0821\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X182.699 Y164.943 E1.5727\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X182.714 Y164.948 E1.5734\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nSENT: G1 X183.460 Y165.138 E1.6080\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.775 Y156.453 E2.1595\nREAD: ok\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.711 Y156.195 E2.1714\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.639 Y155.752 E2.1916\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X184.159 Y165.272 E2.7962\nREAD: ok T:252 @:0 B:0\nSENT: G1 X184.586 Y165.344 E2.8156\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X184.817 Y165.364 E2.8260\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.545 Y155.092 E3.4782\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.498 Y154.479 E3.5058\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X185.434 Y165.416 E4.2003\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X185.542 Y165.425 E4.2052\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X186.012 Y165.427 E4.2262\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.482 Y153.897 E4.9584\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.488 Y153.340 E4.9834\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.488 Y153.338 E4.9835\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X186.570 Y165.420 E5.7507\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X187.093 Y165.377 E5.7742\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.534 Y152.818 E6.5717\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.573 Y152.383 E6.5914\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.586 Y152.305 E6.5949\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X187.604 Y165.323 E7.4216\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X188.089 Y165.242 E7.4436\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.669 Y151.822 E8.2958\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.736 Y151.440 E8.3133\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nSENT: G1 X174.760 Y151.347 E8.3176\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X188.562 Y165.150 E9.1940\nREAD: ok\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X189.014 Y165.036 E9.2149\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.876 Y150.898 E10.1127\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X174.976 Y150.513 E10.1306\nREAD: ok T:253 @:0 B:0\nSENT: G1 X174.997 Y150.453 E10.1334\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X189.456 Y164.912 E11.0516\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X189.878 Y164.768 E11.0716\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X175.144 Y150.034 E12.0072\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X175.290 Y149.615 E12.0271\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X190.294 Y164.619 E12.9799\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X190.688 Y164.447 E12.9991\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X175.464 Y149.223 E13.9658\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M140 S60\nREAD: ok T:259 @:0 B:0\nSENT: G1 X175.639 Y148.832 E13.9851\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X191.081 Y164.274 E14.9656\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X191.109 Y164.262 E14.9670\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X191.450 Y164.077 E14.9844\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X175.833 Y148.460 E15.9761\nREAD: ok T:257 @:0 B:0\nSENT: G1 X176.034 Y148.095 E15.9948\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X191.817 Y163.879 E16.9970\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X191.953 Y163.806 E17.0039\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X192.169 Y163.665 E17.0155\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X176.244 Y147.740 E18.0268\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X176.326 Y147.612 E18.0336\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X176.469 Y147.399 E18.0451\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X192.512 Y163.442 E19.0638\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X192.751 Y163.284 E19.0767\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X192.846 Y163.210 E19.0821\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X176.699 Y147.064 E20.1074\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X176.949 Y146.748 E20.1255\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X193.164 Y162.963 E21.1551\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X193.482 Y162.715 E21.1732\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X177.198 Y146.431 E22.2072\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok T:259 @:0 B:0\nSENT: G1 X177.267 Y146.345 E22.2122\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X177.465 Y146.132 E22.2252\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X193.778 Y162.446 E23.2611\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X194.073 Y162.174 E23.2791\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M104 S0 T0\nREAD: ok T:260 @:0 B:0\nSENT: G1 X177.738 Y145.840 E24.3164\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X177.934 Y145.630 E24.3293\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X177.968 Y145.596 E24.3314\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X178.017 Y145.553 E24.3343\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X194.355 Y161.891 E25.3718\nREAD: ok T:264 @:0 B:0\nSENT: G1 X194.626 Y161.597 E25.3898\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X178.315 Y145.286 E26.4255\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X178.614 Y145.019 E26.4435\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X194.893 Y161.298 E27.4772\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X195.141 Y160.980 E27.4953\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X178.930 Y144.769 E28.5247\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X179.252 Y144.526 E28.5429\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X195.389 Y160.662 E29.5675\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X195.432 Y160.607 E29.5707\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X195.617 Y160.325 E29.5858\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X179.583 Y144.291 E30.6040\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok T:262 @:0 B:0\nSENT: G1 X179.930 Y144.072 E30.6224\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X195.841 Y159.983 E31.6327\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X195.958 Y159.804 E31.6423\nREAD: ok T:260 @:0 B:0\nSENT: G1 X196.053 Y159.629 E31.6513\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X180.277 Y143.853 E32.6530\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X180.649 Y143.660 E32.6719\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.252 Y159.263 E33.6626\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.415 Y158.961 E33.6780\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.446 Y158.891 E33.6815\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X181.021 Y143.466 E34.6610\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X181.121 Y143.414 E34.6661\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X181.412 Y143.291 E34.6802\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.619 Y158.498 E35.6459\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.791 Y158.105 E35.6652\nREAD: ok T:262 @:0 B:0\nSENT: G1 X181.810 Y143.124 E36.6165\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X182.005 Y143.042 E36.6259\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X182.223 Y142.971 E36.6362\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X196.938 Y157.686 E37.5706\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.082 Y157.265 E37.5906\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X182.650 Y142.832 E38.5071\nREAD: ok T:262 @:0 B:0\nSENT: G1 X182.917 Y142.745 E38.5197\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X183.088 Y142.705 E38.5276\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.203 Y156.820 E39.4238\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.317 Y156.368 E39.4448\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X183.546 Y142.597 E40.3192\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X183.851 Y142.525 E40.3333\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X184.015 Y142.501 E40.3408\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.407 Y155.892 E41.1911\nREAD: ok T:264 @:0 B:0\nSENT: G1 X197.488 Y155.408 E41.2132\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X184.507 Y142.427 E42.0375\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X184.799 Y142.383 E42.0507\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X185.015 Y142.369 E42.0604\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.539 Y154.893 E42.8557\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.582 Y154.370 E42.8793\nREAD: ok T:269 @:0 B:0\nSENT: G1 X185.546 Y142.334 E43.6436\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X185.756 Y142.320 E43.6530\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X186.104 Y142.326 E43.6686\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.584 Y153.806 E44.3976\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.583 Y153.385 E44.4165\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.570 Y153.227 E44.4237\nREAD: ok T:270 @:0 B:0\nSENT: G1 X186.680 Y142.336 E45.1152\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X186.715 Y142.337 E45.1168\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X187.305 Y142.397 E45.1434\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.518 Y152.609 E45.7919\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.503 Y152.430 E45.8000\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X197.422 Y151.947 E45.8220\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X187.962 Y142.487 E46.4227\nREAD: ok\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X188.612 Y142.608 E46.4524\nREAD: ok\nSENT: G1 X188.662 Y142.622 E46.4547\nTotal build time: 4.48 minutes\nREAD: ok\nREAD: ok T:269 @:0 B:0\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok T:267 @:0 B:0\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok T:270 @:0 B:0\nSENT: M105\nREAD: ok T:270 @:0 B:0\nDisconnected.\n\n\",raviriley,\"What printer are you using? I had a friend who encountered this problem, at first we thought it was the slicer. Turns out, the wires for his extruder heater block and hot end fan were shorting, so whenever the extruder was turned on, it would keep heating no matter what the temp was set to. To test if this or something similar is happening, first unload your filament. Then, open up a small file in Simplify3D and set the temp to something low, like 100C. If the extruder turns on and just keeps heating, check your wiring. Make sure no wires are shorting and there are no bare/exposed connections.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3738,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Rincewind,3.267423727073639,5.594200186694139,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.306096197889172,Can a 3D model of a copyrighted work be rendered legally without infringement?,\"I know this is still gray territory and it is asked so many times within the 3D printing and maker community but I'm curious about the limits of 3D models and were it touches on Free Use and infringement. I'm not trying to push the envelope, I just want to be clear on the matter.\n\nIs it legal if a design is rendered in a CAD program of a copyrighted material for no purpose of using, distributing, creating, mixing, internalizing, re-licensing under GPL/CC, or any unauthorized use outlined by the owner of the original work? For instance, if someone is demonstrating the abilities of a particular CAD and makes a mock-up of Mickey Mouse just to show the limits of said CAD and the STL/OBJ isn't released or distributed and a letter of intent is given along with the demonstration regarding the original work (in this case, Mickey), is that infringement? In this example, no loss of revenue or sales will affect the original owner, no claims of ownership is implied or stated, and no physical model will be created.\n\nWhile considering all of this, I figured that it wasn't very much different than if an artist sat down and drew a picture of Mickey Mouse. As long as the picture isn't sold, distributed, or released, in my mind, that is the same thing as a 3D render.\n\nTo further the details of the 3D model, the render would be made from scratch and not imported, copied, or reverse engineered from any other work. Bottom line, it will be a likeness that is created but it will be as close to the real thing as possible to demonstrate capabilities of a particular program (such as organic shapes, stitching, grouping, layering, or any other facet and characterization of 3D modeling).\n\nI already understand that it is recommended to err on the side of caution and steer clear of things like this but it is more of a curiosity than a request for legal advice regarding a specific case.\n\nCan this be covered under Fair Use?\n\nSince there is nothing to be made from creating the render, it isn't released or distributed to others, isn't re-licensed, and no ownership is implied/credit to the original owner is given, is this Free Use or copyright infringement?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Whether or not you sell, distribute, release, license, profit from, claim ownership, etc... of something does not matter for copyright law. Copyright prohibits the very act of well, copying. Specifically, if a work is protected by copyright, you can't (among other things)\n\n\n \n make adaptations and arrangements of the work\n make reproductions in any manner or form\n \n\n\nwithout permission (or a license) from the copyright holder. Just because you do something privately, don't distribute or profit from it, does not make you exempt from this rule.\n\nIn some cases though, a fair use exception may apply. In the United States, uses that may be (but not necessarily are) fair are limited to:\n\n\n criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching (including multiple copies for classroom use), scholarship, or research\n\n\nNote that in Europe, teaching is usually not considered fair use.\n\nSo no, it would not in general be permitted to make a 3D model of a copyrighted work, even if you don't plan to do any of the things you listed with it. An artist would not be allowed to draw the picture of Mickey Mouse as you describe either. However, in the United States, your use could be construed as fair use for educational purposes. However, considering that you could equally as well have used some non-copyrighted work to demonstrate the limits of CAD (there's nothing specific to Mickey Mouse that makes him more suitable than any other model) I would recommend against this. An important argument in fair use is usually that there is no other option but to use the copyrighted work (e.g. in a class discussing pop music you have no option but to use excerpts of copyrighted lyrics).\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3738,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Rincewind,3.267423727073639,5.594200186694139,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.306096197889172,Can a 3D model of a copyrighted work be rendered legally without infringement?,\"I know this is still gray territory and it is asked so many times within the 3D printing and maker community but I'm curious about the limits of 3D models and were it touches on Free Use and infringement. I'm not trying to push the envelope, I just want to be clear on the matter.\n\nIs it legal if a design is rendered in a CAD program of a copyrighted material for no purpose of using, distributing, creating, mixing, internalizing, re-licensing under GPL/CC, or any unauthorized use outlined by the owner of the original work? For instance, if someone is demonstrating the abilities of a particular CAD and makes a mock-up of Mickey Mouse just to show the limits of said CAD and the STL/OBJ isn't released or distributed and a letter of intent is given along with the demonstration regarding the original work (in this case, Mickey), is that infringement? In this example, no loss of revenue or sales will affect the original owner, no claims of ownership is implied or stated, and no physical model will be created.\n\nWhile considering all of this, I figured that it wasn't very much different than if an artist sat down and drew a picture of Mickey Mouse. As long as the picture isn't sold, distributed, or released, in my mind, that is the same thing as a 3D render.\n\nTo further the details of the 3D model, the render would be made from scratch and not imported, copied, or reverse engineered from any other work. Bottom line, it will be a likeness that is created but it will be as close to the real thing as possible to demonstrate capabilities of a particular program (such as organic shapes, stitching, grouping, layering, or any other facet and characterization of 3D modeling).\n\nI already understand that it is recommended to err on the side of caution and steer clear of things like this but it is more of a curiosity than a request for legal advice regarding a specific case.\n\nCan this be covered under Fair Use?\n\nSince there is nothing to be made from creating the render, it isn't released or distributed to others, isn't re-licensed, and no ownership is implied/credit to the original owner is given, is this Free Use or copyright infringement?\n\",markshancock,\"First, copyright laws are complex and depend heavily on the specific details. IMO, your question is really too broad to answer.\n\nAn interesting example of how details and interpretation affect whether something is a violation or not is Kienitz v Sconnie Nation. In this case a copyrighted photo was clearly copied, modified, and used to make a t-shirt that was sold; but, it was not deemed a copyright violation. On the surface it seems like a violation; but, the court ruled it was not a copyright violation because of the specific details of the case. Using something as a starting point for a unique creative work that is clearly your own creation is not copying. I am sure you can tell the difference.\n\nSecond, in your description you mention \"\"Free Use\"\". If the owner has granted \"\"Free Use\"\" of their product; but, they are still wanting to declare the item copyrighted, I would hope that they have granted that \"\"Free Use\"\" under a defined agreement. In that case, it would seem likely that the creator may just be trying to protect his design from being plagiarized and/or sold/used in a way that is against his intent.\n\nIf you have a way to contact the owner, why not just contact them and ask their permission for what you want to do. If they have put it out for public use, they would probably be excited to have other people see their creation. Just make sure they gets the credit for the design. If it is a creation they are intending to protect (like Disney does with Mickey Mouse); then, the answer will be an unequivocal no. Note that one weird exception is that Disney has granted use rights for Donald Duck to the University of Oregon \"\"Ducks\"\".\n\nFinally, you state that that your intent is \"\"for no purpose of using, distributing, creating, mixing, ...\"\" and you list almost every way of making it public. If your intent is for what you make/copy to never make it into the public domain; then, how will your question ever be anything other than hypothetical? I know that there is presently no \"\"private use\"\" exclusion for copyrighted material. It isn't legal to copy someone's DVD for you to watch privately; but, in reality, no one gets prosecuted for a single private instance. It is abuse that gets prosecuted.\n\nIn what you intend, it would seem that you be best suited to seek out first what would be the \"\"right\"\" thing to do rather than just focusing on what would be \"\"legal\"\". If you are concerned what you want to do may be wrong and/or illegal, it is probably best to not do it.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4010,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Rincewind,2.528907649931287,4.313373037751713,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Can I repurpose the ISP pins in the lower right corner of the Melzi board?,\"Background: I have many years of experience with AVR and ARM Cortex PLCs and I feel very comfortable using them in projects but I am not an EE or SE. So, if I make a mistake or misunderstand something, keep that in mind. Thanks.\n\nI cracked open the case on my Maker Select v2.1 and I noticed that I have a 2x3 header that is labeled ISP. This is fairly standard for the AVR PLCs and the Melzi board that I have uses the ATMEGA1284P.\n\nI have asked at numerous forums and nobody seems to really know the answer (the downside to RepRap--people use but don't fully understand).\n\nI'm wondering if I can tweak the Repetier firmware (I'm using the stock version 0.91) to use the ISP headers as a standard SPI bus. It has the SCK, MOSI, and MISO pins but it doesn't have the SS pin.\n\nWhat I want to do is put a port expander on the SPI bus and break out additional usable GPIOs.\n\nSo, is there a hardware limitation or any other reason why I wouldn't be able to repurpose the ISP headers into an SPI bus?\n\",markshancock,\"In theory, you can; but, you may need those pins to attach an external programmer to bring your system back to life when playing around with the code.\n\nHere are a couple of articles that could help if you still want to pursue that path:\n\n\nCan SPI programmer interfere with other components on same pins?\nCan I reuse ISP pins for other tasks?(Target: Atmega164p)\n\n\nAnother option (the one I chose) is to just buy a RAMPS board set. I got one on ebay for $19 and it have lots of more options for IO. That way you can play and still go back and plug in your stock Melzi and print whenever you need it.\n\nI got all this for $40 - boards, display, cables, power supply, and even shipping\n\n\nHere is a really nice detailed description of converting a Duplicator i3 from Melzi to RAMPS. The process would likely be very similar for your printer.\n\nThe biggest challenge will likely be setting up the firmware\n\nBTW, what printer did you get?\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n3749,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jiong Le,2.528907649931287,3.745101023865115,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How do I repeat the layers of Slic3r for every 3 infill layers with different angles? (Might need some programming knowledge),\"I'm working on developing alternative infill layers to print at different angles, using Slic3r. Using Slic3r's rectilinear infill, printing at specific angles for 3 layers then repeat.\n\nI'm working towards finding the code in the source code where they alternate the layers and change it to alternate it for every 3 layers.\n\nI know I will need some C++ knowledge to fiddle around with the Slic3r's source code, but if there is someone who can point me in the right direction I would gladly appreciate it!\n\",Matt,\"Slic3r is available on Github.\n\nI think the section you'd be looking for is here\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4116,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jiong Le,1.726248027126092,3.4733367161777027,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"Does anyone know how Slic3r determines its infill adjacent strand spacing, instead of using fill density?\",\"I'm doing research on changing the fill density into the air gap width, adjacent strand spacing, or whatever, instead of using the fill density, as it will give me more precise controls.\n\nQuestion 1:\n\nAll I can work out is from Slic3r's the source code in ~/Slic3r/xs/src/libslic3r/Flow.cpp,\n\nLink to Flow.cpp source code\n\n/* This method returns the centerline spacing between an extrusion using this\n flow and another one using another flow.\n this->spacing(other) shall return the same value as other.spacing(*this) */\n\nfloat Flow::spacing(const Flow &other) const {\n assert(this->height == other.height);\n assert(this->bridge == other.bridge);\n\n if (this->bridge) {\n return this->width/2 + other.width/2 + BRIDGE_EXTRA_SPACING; //Line A\n }\n return this->spacing()/2 + other.spacing()/2; //Line B\n}\n\n\nIf I am right, will changing Line A or Line B, be the right way to change its infill adjacent strand spacing? \n\nQuestion 2:\n\nAnd since we're on this topic, what does the bridge variable represent?\n\",Greenonline,\"This answer should have been a comment, except I have included the relevant code.\n\nTo answer question 2, at a guess, bridge is simply a boolean (bool) that specifies whether there is a bridge or not.\n\nFrom Flow.hpp line 32\n\n/// Represents material flow; provides methods to predict material spacing. \nclass Flow\n{\n public:\n float width, height, nozzle_diameter;\n bool bridge;\n\n Flow(float _w, float _h, float _nd, bool _bridge = false)\n : width(_w), height(_h), nozzle_diameter(_nd), bridge(_bridge) {};\n\n\nAdditionally lines 68-73, may also be of interest:\n\n private:\n static float _bridge_width(float nozzle_diameter, float bridge_flow_ratio);\n /// Calculate a relatively sane extrusion width, based on height and nozzle diameter.\n /// Algorithm used does not play nice with layer heights < 0.1mm. \n static float _auto_width(FlowRole role, float nozzle_diameter, float height);\n static float _width_from_spacing(float spacing, float nozzle_diameter, float height, bool bridge);\n\n\nHowever, your best bet, to get an accurate answer to both of your questions, is to contact Alessandro Ranellucci - alexrj, and ask him - as he is is the designer of the Slic3r code. When you get a reply, maybe you would like to post the answer here... it may be useful for someone else.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3750,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,markshancock,1.0891412423578797,4.374486708232721,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Tronxy printers,\"I am wanting to buy a 3D printer to add to my shop.\n\nI am an engineer and enjoy making/building things so the kit idea sounds fun and economical.\n\nI see Tronxy has two different styles for their larger printers:\n\n\nP802 (reprap frame) style\nX3 (metal frame) style.\n\n\nAs far as I can see, both printers have the same basic resolution, accuracy, and material specs.\n\n\nWhat are the advantages/disadvantages/differences between the\nP802 and X3? \nHow important is auto-leveling?\n\n\",Barafu Albino,\"Auto-leveling is a great effort saver and a best thing in 3D printing in the last 10 years. While you can go without it, and many people do, it reduces the number of failed prints you will have at the beginning.\nProperly leveled bed allows you to print without using any adhesive in it, improves you performance with ABS and other stubborn things. Don't skip on auto-level, especially if you are a beginner. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3750,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,markshancock,1.0891412423578797,4.374486708232721,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Tronxy printers,\"I am wanting to buy a 3D printer to add to my shop.\n\nI am an engineer and enjoy making/building things so the kit idea sounds fun and economical.\n\nI see Tronxy has two different styles for their larger printers:\n\n\nP802 (reprap frame) style\nX3 (metal frame) style.\n\n\nAs far as I can see, both printers have the same basic resolution, accuracy, and material specs.\n\n\nWhat are the advantages/disadvantages/differences between the\nP802 and X3? \nHow important is auto-leveling?\n\n\",markshancock,\"I ended up buying a TronXY X3 and have had it several months.\n\nI have seen several videos on the P802 and the X3 so I believe I can answer this question fairly.\n\nHere is what the two printers look like \n\nP802 \n\nX3 \n\nHere is a comparison of the features\n\n\nHere are my overall impressions:\n\n\nBoth printers are kits and have their assembly challenges\nThe X3 is often a little bit (10-20%) more expensive\nThe X3 frame is very rigid. I have heard the the P802 is also rigid.\nAcrylic is not as durable long-term (it cracks). There are Acrylic parts on both printers; but, the Acrylic frame on the P802 would concern me more.\nThe bed on the X3 can wobble and the P802 doesn't look like it would.\n(Note there are several available modifications to fix the X3 wobble)\nThe Boden extruder on the X3 makes the filament pull consistent; but, it can make the filament more difficult to feed.\nThe External Controller box on the X3 can make the printer more difficult to move and it can take up more desk space.\n\nThe biggest negative (and likely a show stopper) on the P802 is the unprotected Melzi, Exposed AC connections, and no power switch.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3755,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,markshancock,2.1782824847157594,5.894953019536869,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,TronXY Windows 10 driver,\"I am about to purchase a TronXY X3 or P802; but, my PC is running Windows 10.\n\nThe spec sheet for the printers does not list anything above Windows 7.\nIs anyone using either of these printers with Windows 10?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Typically, (hobbyist level, FDM) 3D printers do not require dedicated drivers. They simply show up as a serial port (COMx), and you just need drivers for the USB-to-Serial chip used in the printer's electronics. This is usually an FTDI device, an AtMega32u or CH340. Drivers for those are readily available (and are usually even downloaded automatically through windows update).\n\nThe P802 appears to use a variant of the Melzi board, with an ATmega1284p (the less-powerful cousin of the 2560 found in most printers) as the main processor and it claims to have an (FTDI) FT232RL serial converter (I could not find any information on the X3). You should be aware of this, as there are many fake FTDI chips on the market, and FTDI has been known to \"\"patch\"\" their drivers to break the clones. However, this problem is not specific to Windows 10. You can pretty much count on any 3D printer that works in Windows 7 working in Windows 10.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3755,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,markshancock,2.1782824847157594,5.894953019536869,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,TronXY Windows 10 driver,\"I am about to purchase a TronXY X3 or P802; but, my PC is running Windows 10.\n\nThe spec sheet for the printers does not list anything above Windows 7.\nIs anyone using either of these printers with Windows 10?\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"Since the printer supports using an SD card, you don't need to connect it directly to a PC. Serial over USB has been broken in the past in various Win10 builds, I've not tried it recently and I've not tried connecting my A8 to my PC recently either.\n\nIf you need to use USB, and can't make it work with Windows, there is always the option of using a Raspberry Pi single-board computer (which you can then connect to by VNC from your PC). Depending on the software you want to use, this might resolve any remaining issues you have.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n4044,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,markshancock,2.8153892694839717,3.4733367161777027,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Bed Adhesion materials,\"There are all sorts of stories of what to put on your printer bed to make your part not come loose when it is printing but can be removed after it is done without requiring a hammer and chisel.\n\nIs there anything out there that shows an analytical comparison?\n\nMy biggest interest is PLA on a heated glass base. \n\",hilo90mhz,\"If you can upgrade your bed to a magnetic bed with spring steel top all the problems of breaking parts loose go away, the method is you take the spring steel plate off the magnets and twist it gently to allow your part to break loose.\n\nThere is a commercial product going under the name MagHold. I am not affiliated with them but really like the idea and have it on three of my printers, works great. \n\nFor best results overall I recommend PEI material on top of the spring steel plate. the PEI works great for PLA at 50°C and PETG at 80°C. And you can still break both materials loose easily by twisting the plate. No damage to the sides of your parts from prying. \n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n4044,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,markshancock,2.8153892694839717,3.4733367161777027,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Bed Adhesion materials,\"There are all sorts of stories of what to put on your printer bed to make your part not come loose when it is printing but can be removed after it is done without requiring a hammer and chisel.\n\nIs there anything out there that shows an analytical comparison?\n\nMy biggest interest is PLA on a heated glass base. \n\",Brad,\"I already spent time reading up on this and quickly worked out there is a lot of useless products out there. Sure they may work however it adds a massive cost to your print. \n\nWhat I have found works best for heated glass beds is Glue stick, nice and cheap, lasts a long time and has never let me down. Bed temperature is also very important to get right however out of all the products I have tried, Glue Stick works the best. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4092,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,markshancock,1.0891412423578797,4.999509252461787,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,How to build Cura on Windows?,\"I am interested in doing development on Cura. Initially I want to start with the UI rather than the Engine. I have found the repository and have cloned it to my PC. I have also looked over the Wiki and searched the web. For such a popular open-source product, I was surprised I couldn't find a build guide.\n\nCan someone direct me on how to get started. I have a LOT of experience in Software Development (more years and languages than I want to admit to); but, I have never used Python. Consider that in your instructions.\n\",Greenonline,\"As you are an experienced developer, these links should help:\n\nThis is a related question, but for Ubuntu How to build CuraEngine?\n\nWikipedia has an informative page on Cura, which lists the Github development pages:\n\n\n \n Cura Github development page\n Cura Github legacy (pre-Ultimaker) development page\n Cura slicing engine Github development page\n \n\n\nReading the development pages is a good place to start. The Cura Github development page does contain resources for Windows.\n\nThe top level Ultimaker Github page contains links to all of the relevant repositories, amongst other useful resources, including:\n\n\n \n CuraEngine - CuraEngine is a powerful, fast and robust engine for processing 3D models into 3D printing instruction for Ultimaker\n and other GCode based 3D printers. It is part of the larger open\n source project called \"\"Cura\"\".\n Cura - 3D printer / slicing GUI built on top of the Uranium framework\n cura-build - Build scripts for Cura\n \n\n\n\n\nWith respect to Python, I, myself, am slowly making my way through this Python tutorial, Python Code Academy. However, there are a many other good Python tutorials out there, the best resource is probably Python.org. \n\nOne thing to note is that Python 2.x and 3.x are markedly different (see Should I use Python 2 or Python 3 for my development activity?). What should I learn as a beginner: Python 2 OR Python 3? is also an interesting read.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4092,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,markshancock,1.0891412423578797,4.999509252461787,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,How to build Cura on Windows?,\"I am interested in doing development on Cura. Initially I want to start with the UI rather than the Engine. I have found the repository and have cloned it to my PC. I have also looked over the Wiki and searched the web. For such a popular open-source product, I was surprised I couldn't find a build guide.\n\nCan someone direct me on how to get started. I have a LOT of experience in Software Development (more years and languages than I want to admit to); but, I have never used Python. Consider that in your instructions.\n\",mbmcavoy,\"The repository's README.md includes a section titled \"\"Build Scripts\"\", with a link to another repository: https://github.com/Ultimaker/cura-build\n\nThis includes dependencies and instructions for building Cura on Windows.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4224,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,markshancock,3.267423727073639,4.787120631617172,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,3.320478682445624,2.6553159206313057,Sharing a printer over a network,\"I have a Tronxy X3 (i3 Clone) running Repetier firmware on a Melzi board.\n\nI would like to share the printer over my home network so that:\n\n\nBoth my boys and I can use the printer. (We have separate Windows 10 PCs)\nI can initiate a print from my computer upstairs\nI can monitor the print progress remotely\n\n\nI have (and could use)\n\n\nA RAMPS board set that I could use to run Marlin.\nA Raspberrry Pi 1B \nAn idle laptop I (might) be willing to use\n\n\nWhat I want to know:\n\n\nAre you sharing your printer on a network, and if so, how long\nWhat Hardware and Software are you using\nWhat do you like most\nWhat do you find most annoying\nWhat do you want to change\nWhat is the interface (web interface, print driver, etc.)\nWhat services are provided (printing, slicing, monitoring, etc.)\nCan two computers access it at the same time\nEx: To monitor, or still print if my sons forgot to disconnect\nWhat sort of monitoring is supported? Ex: camera?\nWhat runs the print job (G-code)\n\n\",Greenonline,\"NOTE: This is not from personal experience, but I thought it was worth mentioning:\n\nMicrosoft\n\nYou've probably seen this already - I am not a fan at all of M$, but... Microsoft Plus Raspberry Pi Equals Network 3D Printer. \n\nHere is another link to the same, Network 3D Printer with Windows 10 IoT Core, but, unfortunately, your printer is apparently not supported. \n\nOctoPi\n\nHowever, closed source M$ seem to be playing catch up, whilst the Open Source OctoPi has been about for a while, indeed there have been a few questions on SE 3D Printing about it. From the blurb:\n\n\n OctoPi is a Raspberry Pi distribution for 3d printers. Out of the box it includes:\n \n \n the OctoPrint host software including all its dependencies and preconfigured with webcam and slicing support,\n mjpg-streamer for live viewing of prints and timelapse video creation with support for USB webcams and the Raspberry Pi camera and\n CuraEngine 15.04 for direct slicing on your Raspberry Pi.\n \n\n\nSee How to Install and Set Up Octopi for Remote Raspberry Pi 3D Printer Control with Octoprint. \n\nA few of its features:\n\n\nIt also supports monitoring via a camera.\nThe G-code is sent over the serial to the printer.\nYou can use OctoPi to control multiple printers as well, as it isn't particularly resource intensive, see Control Multiple 3D Printers Using A Single Raspberry Pi and Octoprint].\nYou can configure access control for multiple users, or for a better presented version, see Access control.\n\n\n\n\nAs an aside, you could put Pronterface on the Pi too: How to Install Pronterface on Raspberry Pi - Instructables. I wasn't aware of this.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n4224,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,markshancock,3.267423727073639,4.787120631617172,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,3.320478682445624,2.6553159206313057,Sharing a printer over a network,\"I have a Tronxy X3 (i3 Clone) running Repetier firmware on a Melzi board.\n\nI would like to share the printer over my home network so that:\n\n\nBoth my boys and I can use the printer. (We have separate Windows 10 PCs)\nI can initiate a print from my computer upstairs\nI can monitor the print progress remotely\n\n\nI have (and could use)\n\n\nA RAMPS board set that I could use to run Marlin.\nA Raspberrry Pi 1B \nAn idle laptop I (might) be willing to use\n\n\nWhat I want to know:\n\n\nAre you sharing your printer on a network, and if so, how long\nWhat Hardware and Software are you using\nWhat do you like most\nWhat do you find most annoying\nWhat do you want to change\nWhat is the interface (web interface, print driver, etc.)\nWhat services are provided (printing, slicing, monitoring, etc.)\nCan two computers access it at the same time\nEx: To monitor, or still print if my sons forgot to disconnect\nWhat sort of monitoring is supported? Ex: camera?\nWhat runs the print job (G-code)\n\n\",James ben,\"You can use Windows IoT Core to do it, see -\nhttps://developer.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/iot/docs/3dprintserver\n\",0.0,0.0\n4288,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,markshancock,2.528907649931287,5.822100425664636,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.585260288142579,Why is the bottom of my part not smooth,\"I printed Planetary Gears and the top looks great\nbut the bottom doesn't\n\nI am printing on a TronXY X3 (Prusa i3 metal frame clone) using eSun PLA+ and sliced using Cura 2.4. I print on glass and do manual leveling (sheet of paper to set gap).\n\nWhat could be causing this?\n\nIt almost looks like a raft; but, I selected to print with a Brim not a Raft.\n\nI have seen this on some other prints so I suspect it is a slicer setting.\nNote: Bed adhesion seemed great. First adhered well and part popped off with very little effort.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Your nozzle is too far from your bed. The first layer isn't squished down sufficiently, resulting in these gaps. If your first layer looks like this, you should cancel your print and adjust the bed. Alternatively, you can adjust the initial height of the Z-axis in G-code (for instance, G0 Z-0.1 followed by G92 Z0, which should be appended to your start G-code).\n\nYou can also try increasing the first layer height or the first layer extrusion multiplier. If you increase the first layer height, you will probably still have to adjust the bed slightly to bring the nozzle closer, but the thicker your first layer the larger the window where you get a good first layer.\n\nIncreasing the extrusion multiplier will effectively stretch the first layer to be thicker (and thus the model will come out slightly too high) and thus isn't necessarily a good idea, though some people find that a slight increase (to for instance, 110%) makes the first layer slightly more forgiving (but this also increases adherence, making parts harder to remove - there is a very fine line between getting good first layers and having your prints stuck permanently to the bed).\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n4288,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,markshancock,2.528907649931287,5.822100425664636,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.585260288142579,Why is the bottom of my part not smooth,\"I printed Planetary Gears and the top looks great\nbut the bottom doesn't\n\nI am printing on a TronXY X3 (Prusa i3 metal frame clone) using eSun PLA+ and sliced using Cura 2.4. I print on glass and do manual leveling (sheet of paper to set gap).\n\nWhat could be causing this?\n\nIt almost looks like a raft; but, I selected to print with a Brim not a Raft.\n\nI have seen this on some other prints so I suspect it is a slicer setting.\nNote: Bed adhesion seemed great. First adhered well and part popped off with very little effort.\n\",markshancock,\"@TomvanderZanden was correct\n\nMy nozzle was too far from your bed (sort of)\n\nSince my printer is manually leveled I have to use a sheet of paper to check each leveling point. This means the nozzle is about 0.1mm off the bed at home. In Cura, I had Initial Layer Height=0.3mm BUT this is supposed to be 0.3mm above the bed and my home will be already 0.1mm the bed; so, I really needed Initial Layer Height=0.2mm!\n\nAfter doing that, the first layer laid down really nicely and all the lines got properly smooshed together.\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4326,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,markshancock,1.726248027126092,4.74907193155049,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,How to attach insulation to Hot End,\"I bought some heating block cotton to insulate the exposed surface of my hot end. I thought the yellow as double-sticky but it appears to be Kapton.\n\nWhat can I use to attach it to the extruder?\n\n\n\nMy extruder is already covered on four sides. I want to cover the other two.\n\",Ecnerwal,\"Kapton tape would be the logical material. It's unfortunate that your vendor did not supply that as a separate item, rather than sticking it to the \"\"cotton\"\" (I'm guessing not actually cotton, as things might get a bit scorching for cotton, so I'm assuming some type of ceramic fiber or the like.)\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4326,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,markshancock,1.726248027126092,4.74907193155049,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,How to attach insulation to Hot End,\"I bought some heating block cotton to insulate the exposed surface of my hot end. I thought the yellow as double-sticky but it appears to be Kapton.\n\nWhat can I use to attach it to the extruder?\n\n\n\nMy extruder is already covered on four sides. I want to cover the other two.\n\",MaybeLater,\"Not quite the answer to the question but closely related, so I venture. I use ordinary wool thread to insulate the hot end. I just wrap it carefully so it is covered everywhere. Very low cost, very effective. Wool can handle even the hottest extrusion temperatures easily.\n\",0.0,0.0\n4380,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,markshancock,1.726248027126092,3.715724072594654,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Extending TronXY print bed,\"I have a TronXY printer (i3 Clone). It has a 220x220 mm heated aluminum bed and I print with a Borosilicate glass plate.\n\nI have a slightly longer print (245 mm) I would like to do and I think I could adjust to settings and end stop to stretch the y-dimension travel and I have found a 229x257 mm plate. This would extend over the edge of the aluminum bed.\n\nWill the thermal conduction and mass of the glass plate be sufficient to still keep the bed warm enough?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"The aluminum plate is being heated by the heater element although I suspect the element does not encompass the entire area of the aluminum portion. There are going to be cooler spots on the aluminum but not enough to significantly affect the transfer to the glass.\n\nOnce you extend the glass, without a corresponding extension to the aluminum and/or heater element, you are ensuring cooler spots. The glass will be surrounded by air, and begin to conduct some of the heat, certainly, but will also radiate a substantial amount.\n\nIf you are printing with PLA, you may get away with doing this modification. Very little of the heat from the aluminum will reach the glass.\n\nA quick check shows the thermal conductivity of aluminum to be 205 W/m K compared to borosilicate glass at 1.2 W/m K in the range of temperature used for 3D printing. I did not research the rate of energy dissipation for the same range of temperatures, but if it's not too high (unlikely), it would still take forever for the unheated areas of glass to reach temperature.\n\nConsider your extension to be an unheated bed and print accordingly.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n4380,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,markshancock,1.726248027126092,3.715724072594654,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Extending TronXY print bed,\"I have a TronXY printer (i3 Clone). It has a 220x220 mm heated aluminum bed and I print with a Borosilicate glass plate.\n\nI have a slightly longer print (245 mm) I would like to do and I think I could adjust to settings and end stop to stretch the y-dimension travel and I have found a 229x257 mm plate. This would extend over the edge of the aluminum bed.\n\nWill the thermal conduction and mass of the glass plate be sufficient to still keep the bed warm enough?\n\",markshancock,\"After Fred's answer, I realized there was a way to test out how much the temperature would drop by offsetting my current glass base to extend past the exge then using a FLIR IR Camera to see what the effect would be.\n\nHere are the results:\n\nThe the glass plate does seem act a bit as an insulator causing the print surface to be about 1°C cooler. Here are two photos showing that.\n\n\n\n\nAs Fred proposed, where the glass extends past the base, the temperature drops pretty quickly. It is still warmer than ambient; but is definitely not \"\"Hot\"\".\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4469,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,markshancock,2.8153892694839717,5.015869662237463,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,How thick does an aluminum print bed need to be,\"I am extending the bed of my TronXY X3 FDM RepRap printer.\n\nI am extending the bed from 220 mm x 220 mm to 220 mm x 300 mm. For now, I will keep the existing bed and add and aluminum sheet on top. That leaves 40mm on front and back of the original bed.\n\nRight now I only plan on running PLA; but, I do plan on heating the bed.\n\nHow thick does the aluminum sheet need to be?\n\",cmm,\"I build an 18.5\"\" diameter delta printer. The bed was 3/8\"\" thick 6061 aluminum. It is plenty stiff, but it takes an hour to heat to 100°C. When I rebuild it, I'll probably drop down to 1/4\"\" and increase the heater from about 250 Watts to 750 Watts. That should heat the bed in 15 minutes, which is still a long time. Waiting for the bed to heat for ABS is one of the greatest frustrations with that machine.\n\nFor your machine, how much the 1/8\"\" plate bends will depend a great deal on which aluminum allow and temper you use. From OnlineMetals.com, 6061-T6 and 7075-T6 are available. 7075 is slightly stiffer, but both should be good enough. 6061 is half the price.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4469,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,markshancock,2.8153892694839717,5.015869662237463,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,How thick does an aluminum print bed need to be,\"I am extending the bed of my TronXY X3 FDM RepRap printer.\n\nI am extending the bed from 220 mm x 220 mm to 220 mm x 300 mm. For now, I will keep the existing bed and add and aluminum sheet on top. That leaves 40mm on front and back of the original bed.\n\nRight now I only plan on running PLA; but, I do plan on heating the bed.\n\nHow thick does the aluminum sheet need to be?\n\",Mikhail Z,\"Main factors that control the process of the print bed selection are\n\n\nweight: too thick plate increases inertial force, limiting maximum acceleration/jerk (decreased print speed)\nstiffness: too thin plate will warp when heated or bend during calibration (decreased print quality/printer reliability)\n\n\nFor table sizes around 400x400mm I would think of 4mm plate, but it still can warp if heated unevenly.\n\nSometimes it makes sense to use a sandwich-type table: lower level is MDF, cork panel for heat insulation and thin (1.5-2mm) aluminum heated bed on top.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n4592,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,markshancock,3.267423727073639,3.5615070843884675,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Raise3D Wi-Fi Protocol,\"I am interesting in connecting my RepRap printer to ideaMaker using the same Wi-Fi protocol they use for their Raise3D printers.\n\n\n\nI am sure I could emulate it using a Raspberry Pi if I knew the format of the protocol (I suspect it is pretty simple).\n\n\nIs the protocol documented anywhere?\nIs there open source for something that uses the protocol?\nHas anyone that has a Raise3D printer looked at the packets it uses? I suspect the protocol is just G-code in a wrapper.\n\n\",markshancock,\"OK, I have found the first piece of this puzzle.\n\"\"The Raise3D printers listen on TCP port 31625 for remote control from ideaMaker.\"\"\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3754,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,LCarvalho,2.528907649931287,3.6723553103068682,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Structural Analysis,\"I have some files for 3d printing that I want to do structural analysis because I plan to apply loads on them. I know there is a Solidworks analysis module for this purpose called Simulation, but according to what I have read about this software it is not very effective for analyzing parts that have been created by layers such as 3d prints.\n\nDoes anyone work with this and could describe important features to make a good structural analysis?\n\",Diesel,\"For running an analysis on FDM printed parts Solidworks Sim would be extremely difficult to use. It's not really designed for running this type of analysis and is at the fairly low end of FEA analysis packages. An FDM analysis should be treated almost like a composite structure and you'd have better luck running something like ANSYS, or NASTRAN but those are by no means the only two. To get good (and accurate) results from FEA you'll need to model each layer, the bonding between each and the internal structure.\n\nI've never done it myself but i've looked into doing it. The mesh required for even a fairly simple part looks pretty massive. Certainly possible and certainly doable, but you'd need to weigh your expectations against how much time it would take to model everything, set up the mesh and then run the analysis. In my experience, given that most FDM prints are pretty quick to build, it always seemed to be more efficient to build a few parts load them up and watch how they fail in a structural test. 20 hours of printing and then an additional 10-15 of setting up and running the tests were faster than running a proper FEA.\n\nFor a quick and dirty FEA, i'd use the solid model of my part and only consider loads that acted normal to the Z-Axis of the print. Any loads that act in shear apply a huge FOS. The closer to pure shear the larger the FOS you'd want to have. And any thin, tall parts i'd assume can take no loading outside of pure compression.\n\nEdit:\nJust noticed that this question had a tag on Heat-management\n\nAs far as a Heat loads go, it'll depend heavily on the infill type and density you have on your model. Everything from above will still apply, but the loads would then be thermal loads instead of structural. Particularly with FEM at best your first analysis will only be within about 50% of true values and you will then need to update your thermal model with the results from your first verification test.\n\nDepending on the accuracy required from the analysis you could get away with modelling a hollow part with the walls of the part being the thickness of the printed shells. Higher accuracy analysis you'll have to model all layers as they are printed. If you're just looking for a 'will it melt' analysis, thin walls will work fairly accurately assuming you're confident in your material properties.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n10880,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,LCarvalho,2.8153892694839717,3.247326609336232,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Are there many differences between Ultimaker Cura and FlashForge FlashPrint slicers?,\"I recently bought a 3D printer called Dreamer NX from FlashForge. The dealer told me to use FlashPrint software that belongs to the FlashForge printer manufacturer. But, many people advise me to use Ultimaker Cura. Are there many differences between these two software packages?\n\",0scar,\"The commonality of the 2 slicers is that both are developed and maintained by a printer manufacturer. The largest difference is that FlashPrint is closed/proprietary software, while Ultimaker Cura is released in source (so-called open source project) to the public; this is valid for both the frontend (Cura) (Graphical User Interface) as for the slicing core (CuraEngine). Basically this implies that there is a larger community developing and bug fixing the software. Also, FlashPrint is exclusively available for the FlashForge printers while Ultimaker Cura can be used for different brands as well.\n\nStatement from www.3dprms.com:\n\n\n The Flashpoint software is an in-house software program developed by FlashForge for use exclusively with the FlashForge 3D Printers\n\n\nStatement from the Cura wikipedia:\n\n\n Cura is an open source 3D printer slicing application. It was created by David Braam who was later employed by Ultimaker, a 3D printer manufacturing company, to maintain the software.\n\n\nAs FlashPrint is proprietary, it has no shared source repository and can therefore not be based on existing forks of software that are released under e.g. some version of the LGPL license as this implies that you need to share the amendments you made to the software, otherwise you would be in violation:\n\n\n ...any developer who modifies an LGPL-covered component is required to make their modified version available under the same LGPL license..\n\n\n\n\nNote that discussing the exact differences in features between the 2 software packages (e.g. implementation differences of model support structures) would be more fit in a forum style discussion board rather than on a Stack Exchange site.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n10880,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,LCarvalho,2.8153892694839717,3.247326609336232,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Are there many differences between Ultimaker Cura and FlashForge FlashPrint slicers?,\"I recently bought a 3D printer called Dreamer NX from FlashForge. The dealer told me to use FlashPrint software that belongs to the FlashForge printer manufacturer. But, many people advise me to use Ultimaker Cura. Are there many differences between these two software packages?\n\",R..,\"Perhaps this is veering out a little bit from being an answer to the specific differences between software functionality, but one important difference that shouldn't be overlooked is that whatever you learn with Cura is applicable to all FDM 3D printers.\n\nSurely some setting tweaks you do might be specific to the properties of your particular printer, but a large amount of them, like choices of infill patterns, shells, adaptive layer heights, using secondary models as custom support and infill masks, breaking up models into multiple pieces for printing, etc. are completely printer-agnostic. If you learn to do these with software that's only usable (or at least only meant to be used) with your particular brand of printers, you'll have to translate/relearn if you later want to use a different printer, or help someone else who has a different brand of printer. If you learn with software that works with any printer, everything you learn is immediately applicable to different printers.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3758,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Deathkill14,1.726248027126092,3.826347838726222,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Is it safe to print a rotor insert for a centrifuge using a makerbot?,\"Laboratory centrifuges have buckets that hold the sample tubes in inserts.\n\nThe buckets are the black things on the rotor in the upper left corner holding the bottles. Examples of inserts are shown below (the colorful containers with slots for tubes). These fit into the buckets and I'd like to print them since these are expensive.\n\nIs it safe to 3d print these using a makerbot given the g-forces these rotor inserts will be subjected to (potentially 150g's under our settings), or will the inserts deform and unbalance the rotors under the stress? \n\nAdditionally, is the precision of the printing good enough that the inserts can be expected to be well-balanced (the correct weight, with a symetric design having even weight distribution)?\n\nWe have a basic makerbot that makes little plastic robots.\n\n\n\",fred_dot_u,\"It's difficult to determine if the buckets are fully enclosed, but I suspect that they are. The enclosure into which the inserts are placed will provide some structural support. \n\n3D printed objects have relatively low torsion strength, but a reasonable compression strength, especially with high infill levels. One could consider that the item placed into the insert will transmit force to the bucket, but likely not compress to the point of destruction.\n\nAllowing also that the forces on a swinging bucket centrifuge are \"\"downward\"\" or when in use, \"\"outward,\"\" the primary location of force will be the bottom of the insert you create. It appears that the main function of the insert is to keep the tubes separated, rather than to keep them supported.\n\nCreate your inserts, but leave an open bottom. Attach a suitably strong panel to the bottom of your created model with epoxy.\n\nAnother thing to consider in this project is the mode of failure. What can go wrong? The tubes in the insert should not explode, but if they do, is it merely cleaning up that follows? I suppose one aspect of the inserts is to keep the tube walls in column, to keep all forces linear to the tube cylinder, rather than out of line. It's easy to keep pennies in a stack under pressure, but don't push on them edgewise.\n\nYou can and should perform a test on a 3D printed insert. Make one that is relatively flimsy, say a six-tube unit and spin it without tubes in place. Test it prior to the spin for tube fit, then test it after the spin. If there is deformation, you would not be able to insert the tubes after the spin.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3758,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Deathkill14,1.726248027126092,3.826347838726222,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Is it safe to print a rotor insert for a centrifuge using a makerbot?,\"Laboratory centrifuges have buckets that hold the sample tubes in inserts.\n\nThe buckets are the black things on the rotor in the upper left corner holding the bottles. Examples of inserts are shown below (the colorful containers with slots for tubes). These fit into the buckets and I'd like to print them since these are expensive.\n\nIs it safe to 3d print these using a makerbot given the g-forces these rotor inserts will be subjected to (potentially 150g's under our settings), or will the inserts deform and unbalance the rotors under the stress? \n\nAdditionally, is the precision of the printing good enough that the inserts can be expected to be well-balanced (the correct weight, with a symetric design having even weight distribution)?\n\nWe have a basic makerbot that makes little plastic robots.\n\n\n\",Diesel,\"The primary printer I use is a makerbot, and my gut is saying no. \n\n150G's of loading even in the XY axis seems pretty excessive for a part made on a Makerbot. Also, given that this is a rotational, the weight and balance will need to be held to a pretty high tolerance otherwise you'll end up having an off-balance centrifuge which could damage a pretty expensive piece of equipment. Admittedly I haven't checked the reliability for weight and balance of a part I've made for the loading condition you'd be going through but I'd be pretty hesitant about trying to run any FDM printed part under a loading case like that Makerbot or a high end printer given the speeds you'll be at. \n\nIf it's your only option though, I'd suggest running your centrifuge at a very low speed first with the part in it and check it to see if you're picking up any transient vibration from it. Increasing the speed as you feel comfortable. My gut says that it'll fail before getting up to full speed from out of balance CofG of the part and the centrifuge starting to shake. Sounds terrifyingly fun to try though. IF you do try and run it,c an you post what happens? I'd be very interested in hearing the results.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3771,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,3dp_pro,2.528907649931287,5.8882078644193525,1.7539669625835614,5.646830619998737,3.0574377365420307,1.878685800062712,Commercially available 3D printer fume and UFP extractor,\"Is there a commercially available fume and nano particle extractor for a 3D printer, like the Ultimaker3 extended? I'm looking for a safe solution, to use at home, for around $800. \n\",Greenonline,\"Following on from Harvey Lim's answer, to give a concrete example of a DIY filter, which uses active carbon, see ABS 3d Printer Nanoparticle and Chemical Exhaust Air Filter:\n\n\n Description\n \n Enclose your 3d printer and use this exhaust air filter along with a recirculating air filter to eliminate nanoparticles and chemical fumes. 95 to 99.5% of partilces up to 0.1 micron in size are filtered before air is exhausted into your 3d printing room. This is 3 times better than HEPA filtration. Chemical fumes such as phenols, hydrogen bromide, hydrogen cyanide, and styrene are also filtered out. The amount of chemicals filtered out depends on the amount of carbon filtration media you put into the unit and the strength of the fan you install on the unit. If you are using this for business purposes, you'll have to experiment a bit to have it pass inspection. If you are using it for personal purposes, know that the human nose is extremely sensitive. People who have the gene for hydrogen cyanide detection can smell it down to a concentration of 2 to 10 ppm. Suffice it to say, that if you can smell no evil, you are probably not experiencing evil. This has totally cleared my 3d printing room of nasty fumes. I invite you to try it out for yourself as the cost is very low since I've designed it to use surgical masks and aquarium activated carbon filtration media, which is very affordable. You should change the filtration media and surgical mask every month or 50 hours of printing, whichever comes first. I offer no warranty of any kind as this is an experimental device.\n\n\nThis filter is mentioned in tbm0115's answer to What are the best air filtration options for enclosures?\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n3771,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,3dp_pro,2.528907649931287,5.8882078644193525,1.7539669625835614,5.646830619998737,3.0574377365420307,1.878685800062712,Commercially available 3D printer fume and UFP extractor,\"Is there a commercially available fume and nano particle extractor for a 3D printer, like the Ultimaker3 extended? I'm looking for a safe solution, to use at home, for around $800. \n\",rkwadd,\"Dust collectors, fume extractors, and mist collectors for other industrial processes like welding, machining, and woodworking start at a few thousand dollars.\n\nThe Allerair AirMedic Pro 6 (formerly 6000 series) is available from as low as $600. It is marketed in some places as an air purifier but others as a general purpose air filter. In any case it uses activated carbon and a HEPA filter.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3782,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mc Kernel,2.528907649931287,3.6881615067255673,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,Error: Dry mode when moving Z-Axis,\"My printer just stopped working. It seems like it's working perfectly, but it gives me an error whenever I move the Z-Axis (Error: Printer set into dry run mode until restart) then, the bed temperature appears to be at 293ºC when it's actually at 95ºC.\n\nI suspect that the bed wires short-circuited since they got stuck behind the bed when the printer was moving Y-Axis to home (the wires blocked the movement). Since then, the error appeared. \n\nI suspect that the controller board could have been harmed by the supposed short-circuit, but despite the error, I can move perfectly any axis; I can heat the bed and the extruder; I can extrude filament; it is just the error which doesn't let me print.\n\nPrinter:\nAnet A8 Desktop 3D Printer Prusa i3\n\nSoftware:\nMatterHackers: MatterControl 1.7\n\nUpdate: The bed temperature is stuck at ~95ºC, sometimes ~250ºC, even if I disconnect the sensor wires and restart the printer, so apparently, it's failing to read the bed temperature.\n\",raviriley,\"Try checking the wiring on your motherboard and all of the connections to your steppers. When I first had my printer, the z-axis didn't work because a wire was loose. I took apart the control box on my Di3 and made sure everything was firmly connected, and after that everything worked fine.\n\",0.0,0.0\n3782,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mc Kernel,2.528907649931287,3.6881615067255673,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,Error: Dry mode when moving Z-Axis,\"My printer just stopped working. It seems like it's working perfectly, but it gives me an error whenever I move the Z-Axis (Error: Printer set into dry run mode until restart) then, the bed temperature appears to be at 293ºC when it's actually at 95ºC.\n\nI suspect that the bed wires short-circuited since they got stuck behind the bed when the printer was moving Y-Axis to home (the wires blocked the movement). Since then, the error appeared. \n\nI suspect that the controller board could have been harmed by the supposed short-circuit, but despite the error, I can move perfectly any axis; I can heat the bed and the extruder; I can extrude filament; it is just the error which doesn't let me print.\n\nPrinter:\nAnet A8 Desktop 3D Printer Prusa i3\n\nSoftware:\nMatterHackers: MatterControl 1.7\n\nUpdate: The bed temperature is stuck at ~95ºC, sometimes ~250ºC, even if I disconnect the sensor wires and restart the printer, so apparently, it's failing to read the bed temperature.\n\",Mc Kernel,\"I bought a new board controller and it's working perfectly\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n3784,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,qwazix,1.726248027126092,4.520519813775997,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Resetting the zero position of the X axis on a RepRapPro Mendel Mono,\"My mono mendel 0,0 position is on the left of the bed, when the nozzle is at the position of the green dot in this image.\n\n\n\nI would like to move that point to the left a bit, in order to print a slightly larger part (the bed has about a centimeter more space to the left). I know I can just allow negative values but I'd rather not to, for safety reasons.\n\nHowever I cannot find where the offset of that point from the endstops (home position) is declared. There is no offset set in either pronterface or Slic3r, and unless my board came preloaded with different firmware than the one reprappro publishes, the *_HOME_POS variables in their Marlin repository are all equal to 0.\n\n// The position of the homing switches. Use MAX_LENGTH * -0.5 if the center should be 0, 0, 0\n#define X_HOME_POS 0\n#define Y_HOME_POS 0\n#define Z_HOME_POS 0\n\n\nhttps://github.com/reprappro/Marlin/blob/master/Marlin/Configuration.h#L290\n\nAny ideas how I should go about it?\n\",ctag,\"I think the cleanest option is to move the X-endstop back about a centimeter to match, and then increase the size of the bed in both Slic3r's and the printer's settings.\n\nYou could also try using M206 to set a persistent offset after homing.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n3788,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nicholas,1.726248027126092,4.024506721533562,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,What makes 3D printing noncompetitive for medium production runs?,\"I've been 3D printing as a hobby for a couple of years now, and have always heard how 3D printing is great for prototyping, but once you get beyond 10 or 20 pieces it's just not cost competitive with other technologies. I just accepted this to be truth, and have even told some of the customers I've gotten through 3DHubs and other marketplaces the same thing.\n\nNow I'm creating an item for resale and am 3D printing the case. As I'll need 40 - 50 cases at a time I thought I would shop around for other options. But I just received some quotes back on injection molding. The mold price (for half the case) was \\$15k, plus \\$10 per unit at a quantity of 50 and \\$4 per unit at a quantity of 500. Even in the case of the latter, the cost of tooling plus production is \\$34/piece. 3D printing the same part myself costs $7 in filament, and paying someone else to 3D print it cost \\$28.\n\nKeeping in mind that 3D printing allows me to make changes to the design on the fly and print the exact number I need without having to worry about volume discounts, I now wonder if I've just been repeating a common misconception. Is 3D printing really noncompetitive for medium (10-500 pieces) production runs? If so, what makes it noncompetitive, given the extremely high up-front cost of IM?\n\",Diesel,\"Short Version\n\n3d Printing is generally the most expensive method for building things mainly because it takes a long time to do. Compared to other methods it's by far the slowest. The few machines that can do parts quickly typically have very small build volumes so they're limited to only a few parts. COmpared with injection molded parts you can make a dozen parts in a few seconds 3D Printing is closer to a few hours for one or two parts. Unless there is a change in the process or the technology or philosophy of the process 3D printing will always be delegated to small runs.\n\nUnspecific Answer\n\nYou implied something in your post that you didn't explicitly ask for which I might be able to help with. 3D printing is small scale, Injection molding is large scale, but you've glossed over the medium scale production methods that might be worth considering given your project. If you're wanting to make small runs (20-500) units, your time could be well spent looking into cast-urethane parts. A mold will run around 200-500\\$ depending on manufacturer, complexity and size of the mold each mold is typically good for about 20 parts and then materials are roughly 20-30\\$ for smaller sized parts. The really nice thing about cast urethane is the material properties are very comparable to an injection molded part and the surface finish looks fantastic\n\nIn my experience my workflow for a new part design is 3D print a few models to get from revision 0 to something you're confident should work, cast urethane a few batches to get functional field testing completed and possibly even sell while the injection molding side gets set up. Injection molding takes 5-6 weeks about as a minimum for first article, 3D printing is a few hours, and cast urethane is 2-3 weeks tops, less if you pay a bit more. \n\nedit\nForgot to mention that by using cast urethane as an intermediate you still have the flexibility to change your design without resulting in huge mold redesign costs. Because the mold is only good for about 20 parts modifying you can modify your part and update without incurring huge re-molding costs.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n3788,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nicholas,1.726248027126092,4.024506721533562,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,What makes 3D printing noncompetitive for medium production runs?,\"I've been 3D printing as a hobby for a couple of years now, and have always heard how 3D printing is great for prototyping, but once you get beyond 10 or 20 pieces it's just not cost competitive with other technologies. I just accepted this to be truth, and have even told some of the customers I've gotten through 3DHubs and other marketplaces the same thing.\n\nNow I'm creating an item for resale and am 3D printing the case. As I'll need 40 - 50 cases at a time I thought I would shop around for other options. But I just received some quotes back on injection molding. The mold price (for half the case) was \\$15k, plus \\$10 per unit at a quantity of 50 and \\$4 per unit at a quantity of 500. Even in the case of the latter, the cost of tooling plus production is \\$34/piece. 3D printing the same part myself costs $7 in filament, and paying someone else to 3D print it cost \\$28.\n\nKeeping in mind that 3D printing allows me to make changes to the design on the fly and print the exact number I need without having to worry about volume discounts, I now wonder if I've just been repeating a common misconception. Is 3D printing really noncompetitive for medium (10-500 pieces) production runs? If so, what makes it noncompetitive, given the extremely high up-front cost of IM?\n\",A Bailey,\"TL:DR\n\n3D printing is great for low quantities of items, but terrible for large quantities of items. This is a continuous scale and as your quantity grows, the drawbacks of 3D printing become more pronounced. In your situation, you seem to be dancing in the nebulous zone where there isn't really a good answer as to which production method is better. It's more of a question of price vs speed.\n\nThere are several factors that limit additive manufacturing technologies (in this answer I'll just talk about FDM since you're asking about a plastic item) from being practical in large scale manufacturing. \n\nTime\n\nCompared to injection molding, 3D printing takes a very long time. An injection mold can make 72 plastic caps in 3 seconds. While I don't have a source, I would expect a similar item to take at least 5 minutes to be printed. In order to produce an average of 24 caps/second, you would need 7,200 3d printers working without down time. That doesn't take into consideration ...\n\nLabor\n\nEvery 3d printed object needs to be removed from the print bed by hand. That requires a person to be there ready to remove the item. It's possible to have automated print removal, but for now I've yet to see it as a standard option on any machine. An injection model machine can just pop the parts out into a box. Even with the capability to remove the parts extra labor is still required for 3d printing because ...\n\nQuality\n\nInjection molded parts are as smooth as the mold they were made in. While failures still exist even for molded items, their relatively cheap production cost and very quick production time ensure that an occasional failure won't be problematic. 3D printing on the other hand is still prone to variations in the final product. For a few items, it's sensible to hand finish the parts with filing, sanding, or other reductive manufacturing techniques, but for many items this quickly become burdensome. Also, given the long production time compared to injection molding, even 1 discarded product will result in a long time required to produce a replacement.\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n3795,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jeff,2.528907649931287,4.781451569329939,3.507933925167123,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Z axis at print is lower than when I home,\"I replaced the controller board in my Monoprice Select Mini with an Arduino/Ramps setup and compiled an uploaded Marlin 1.1.0-RC8 to run it. I've got most everything calibrated and working with one exception.\n\nI tell the printer to home for xyz and then level my bed with a piece of paper then start a print and the nozzle consistently drops too far down into the bed and nothing can extrude. If I adjust the bed and put 1-2mm gap between the nozzle and bed then it prints fine. \n\nI can't find anything in Marlin to adjust for this and I'm kind of stumped. I'm printing the original cat gcode that came with the printer that should just work fine as it always has and shouldn't have anything that a slicer would put in there to screw things up. \n\nCan anyone point me in the right direction?\n\nThis is the output of M503\n\nSend: M503\nRecv: echo:Steps per unit:\nRecv: echo: M92 X93.00 Y93.00 Z1097.50 E99.00\nRecv: echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):\nRecv: echo: M203 X300.00 Y300.00 Z5.00 E25.00\nRecv: echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):\nRecv: echo: M201 X3000 Y3000 Z100 E10000\nRecv: echo:Accelerations: P=printing, R=retract and T=travel\nRecv: echo: M204 P3000.00 R3000.00 T3000.00\nRecv: echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)\nRecv: echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Y20.00 Z0.40 E5.00\nRecv: echo:Home offset (mm)\nRecv: echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00\nRecv: echo:Material heatup parameters:\nRecv: echo: M145 S0 H180 B70 F255\nRecv: M145 S1 H240 B110 F0\nRecv: echo:PID settings:\nRecv: echo: M301 P26.15 I2.74 D62.35\nRecv: echo: M304 P231.09 I45.21 D295.34\nRecv: echo:Filament settings: Disabled\nRecv: echo: M200 D3.00\nRecv: echo: M200 D0\nRecv: ok\n\n\nI also wanted to test whether the nozzle is actually moving closer. I did a G28 and manually put a piece of paper's width gap between the nozzle and the bed at all points. Then I started a print with no filament but with the sheet between the nozzle and bed. When it got to temp it homed all the axis and moved the nozzle to the first position. I would expect the paper to maintain the same gap but it tightly presses into the paper. The first gcode move that includes the Z before extruding is :\n\nG0 F3600 X42.228 Y46.985 Z0.3\n\n\nWhich you would expect would put even more space between the nozzle and bed for the first .3 layer of filament but it isn't.\n\nI printed directly from the SD Card to hopefully rule out Octoprint running gcode before the print so I really think the culprit is Marlin at this point.\n\",Mikhail Z,\"If nozzle sets lower than it should, after heating up, then you may need to calibrate with heater turned on.\n\nAnother (although less likely) reason can be an incorrect Z steps number. However, if the print, after adjusting the first line height, does well, this should not be the case.\n\nFast track solution is to use M206 (something like M206 Z0.3) command to adjust nozzle offset, in your case Z position. This does not fix the root cause but should allow you to mitigate the problem.\n\",0.0,0.0\n3795,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jeff,2.528907649931287,4.781451569329939,3.507933925167123,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Z axis at print is lower than when I home,\"I replaced the controller board in my Monoprice Select Mini with an Arduino/Ramps setup and compiled an uploaded Marlin 1.1.0-RC8 to run it. I've got most everything calibrated and working with one exception.\n\nI tell the printer to home for xyz and then level my bed with a piece of paper then start a print and the nozzle consistently drops too far down into the bed and nothing can extrude. If I adjust the bed and put 1-2mm gap between the nozzle and bed then it prints fine. \n\nI can't find anything in Marlin to adjust for this and I'm kind of stumped. I'm printing the original cat gcode that came with the printer that should just work fine as it always has and shouldn't have anything that a slicer would put in there to screw things up. \n\nCan anyone point me in the right direction?\n\nThis is the output of M503\n\nSend: M503\nRecv: echo:Steps per unit:\nRecv: echo: M92 X93.00 Y93.00 Z1097.50 E99.00\nRecv: echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):\nRecv: echo: M203 X300.00 Y300.00 Z5.00 E25.00\nRecv: echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):\nRecv: echo: M201 X3000 Y3000 Z100 E10000\nRecv: echo:Accelerations: P=printing, R=retract and T=travel\nRecv: echo: M204 P3000.00 R3000.00 T3000.00\nRecv: echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)\nRecv: echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Y20.00 Z0.40 E5.00\nRecv: echo:Home offset (mm)\nRecv: echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00\nRecv: echo:Material heatup parameters:\nRecv: echo: M145 S0 H180 B70 F255\nRecv: M145 S1 H240 B110 F0\nRecv: echo:PID settings:\nRecv: echo: M301 P26.15 I2.74 D62.35\nRecv: echo: M304 P231.09 I45.21 D295.34\nRecv: echo:Filament settings: Disabled\nRecv: echo: M200 D3.00\nRecv: echo: M200 D0\nRecv: ok\n\n\nI also wanted to test whether the nozzle is actually moving closer. I did a G28 and manually put a piece of paper's width gap between the nozzle and the bed at all points. Then I started a print with no filament but with the sheet between the nozzle and bed. When it got to temp it homed all the axis and moved the nozzle to the first position. I would expect the paper to maintain the same gap but it tightly presses into the paper. The first gcode move that includes the Z before extruding is :\n\nG0 F3600 X42.228 Y46.985 Z0.3\n\n\nWhich you would expect would put even more space between the nozzle and bed for the first .3 layer of filament but it isn't.\n\nI printed directly from the SD Card to hopefully rule out Octoprint running gcode before the print so I really think the culprit is Marlin at this point.\n\",Jeff,\"I found the issue. When the hotend and bed are at temps for PLA everything works fine but at temps for ABS the Z offset would get all messed up. After a bunch of testing I was able to track it down to a single gcode statment G1 Z15.0 F6000 \nAt the higher temps my Z stepper skips steps at that feed rate. \n\nThe \"\"Custom FDM printer\"\" machine settings I used for my printer in Cura had that statement in it and so did the cat gcode that was on the card from the factory. I changed the feed rate to 200 and was able to print in ABS.\n\nI was surprised Marlin didn't have a 'limit the feedrate for Z to this number' setting.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n3799,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Vince,1.0891412423578797,3.9666937385261156,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Thoughts on designing and printing 3D miniature house,\"I've done a few 3D designs in Sketchup and Fusion 360. Prints were done in PLA on an FDM and an SLA machine that I have access to. Generally I am quite happy with the results. Now the description of my question. \n\nI would like to create a 3D model of the house and yard that my wife grew up in, print it in miniature then assemble it into a snow globe to be given as a Christmas present. Quite a challenge I expect. The final thing does not have to be exact but a fair representation so that she can actually tell that it's her house. Some specific questions:\n\n\nThe house is brick, would the brick texture actually be noticeable on the printed model if it is say only 1 to 1.5\"\" on a side with either SLA or FDM? \nSame for roof shingles?\nOr should I just rely on adding these details artistically in the painting process ( I will have to find an artist to do all that ) \nThought on trees/ bushes? Again I hope to rely on artistic license when designing these parts. \nThoughts on software: \"\"Which would be best to design in?\"\" It has to be free (or not expensive) since I am not doing this professionally and don't have the money to buy expensive 3D software? Someone suggested Blender. Fusion 360, Sketchup. Others?\nThoughts on best printing method ?\n\n\nA lot of questions I know and I truly appreciate any feedback on any of this. \n\",Diesel,\"Answering your questions in turn:\n\n\nOn the scale you're trying for, printing brick with FDM won't show up - you'd have much better results, and could be possible, with SLA. You won't see every brick, but you will see the texture at least.\nSame as for brick, You wont see shingles, but you can differentiate that there is a texture difference. If you were to paint it after the fact the color plus the texture will make it clear.\nYup, but both won't hurt.\nDoable if they're big enough. SLA would be required I think to make them look good.\nFor something like this I'd suggest Blender, if your modelling skills are pretty solid. If not, Fusion-360 would work really well. But that's purely opinion based.\nSLA if that wasn't clear as of yet.\n\n\nSounds awesome. I think the hardest part on this is going to be the modelling, the structure I'm picturing isn't all that complex so it should be doable.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3809,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hari Ganti,1.726248027126092,2.8673070466884,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How to remove adhered nylon from build platform?,\"As the title suggests, I am looking to remove nylon that has adhered strongly to my build platform. Mechanical methods (ex. scraping) haven't yielded results, so I was hoping for a solvent or something that would remove the adhered nylon.\n\nAlso, the parts themselves remove well enough, but some areas have a bit of nylon that simply persist.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"One important and missing aspect of your question is what is your build platform? Glass is likely to give you the best results, while aluminum has some risks, depending on your choice of solvents.\n\nMy hasty research at first showed Glacial Acetic Acid to be a candidate, but as a very strong acid, it will require some care in use.\n\nI found a pdf document with a comprehensive chart of possible solvents for nylon. The above noted solvent (100% acetic acid) lists with an Unsatisfactory result. I read this at first as being unsatisfactory for dissolving, but the correct interpretation is that nylon is unsatisfactory for being resistant to this solvent. Additional notes show nylon will dissolve in this solvent. I have a bottle of white vinegar (acetic acid) but the panel reads as five percent concentration, almost certainly ineffective for your purposes.\n\nThere are other solvents listed as unsatisfactory, which points them in the right direction for your purposes. A couple of them are in the chlorine family and no reference is made regarding concentration. Chlorine of even weak concentration will attack aluminum very quickly.\n\nDespite the weak concentration of the white vinegar, I've dropped a segment of 3 mm nylon to see what happens overnight and may report via an edit here later.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3810,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Albert Vincent,2.1782824847157594,3.4471789634270973,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Delta Kossel 3d Printer Heatsink issues,\"I feel stupid for asking, but could it cause issues if the Heat sink/Heater block/Extruder tip can spin freely in a Kossel Delta 3d printer? I went to remove the extruder tip the other day, and noticed that all of the assembly is free spinning. I am new to the 3d printing community.\n\nClarification: \n\nIt's the whole assembly rotating as a single piece. The heater block, heat break/sink and extruder tip are all rotating together, in the effector.\n\",PikesPeakCode,\"When assembling the hot end tip, make sure you screw in the extruder tip to the aluminum block first, then screw that assembly to the heat sink fins. On my Kossel, I did it the other way around, and had very poor results. \n\nIf the whole assembly is spinning, then the clamp screws are either too long and can't tighten properly, or the holes might be stripped, or they're just not tight.\n\nAnd yes, any movement in the hot end can cause problems, since we're dealing with steps as small as .1 mm.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3823,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ashvin777,1.726248027126092,4.2773448308275,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,101Hero 3D Printer - Printed object is tilted,\"I am facing a problem with my 3D print. Whenever I am printing any object, the print from the top is shifting to the right hand side - it is symmetric at the bottom but not at the top. \n\nCheckout the photo below:\n\n\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"The usual cause here is a loose belt on the X or Y drive, leading to hysteresis and a shift in the perceived origin of the system. Try tightening the belts and adding tensioners.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3823,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ashvin777,1.726248027126092,4.2773448308275,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,101Hero 3D Printer - Printed object is tilted,\"I am facing a problem with my 3D print. Whenever I am printing any object, the print from the top is shifting to the right hand side - it is symmetric at the bottom but not at the top. \n\nCheckout the photo below:\n\n\n\",Diesel,\"You appear to have a couple of issues here, \n\nFirst off your nozzle appears to be a bit hot for your filament (you can see this be the drooping and sagginess of the layers on the outer shell)\n\nSecond issue is it appears as though your belts are loose. You can tell if your belts are loose if your parts seem to be shifted in one way. \n\nThird issue (maybe). You may want to try slowing down your nozzle speed slightly. The faster the extruder moves, the more inertia that is generated which in effect makes your belt act as a spring and will cause it to bounce along the axis while it's printing. Slowing it down will result in your belt acting more like a rigid member and help to clean up the outer layers of your print. Also, it's easier on your belts. The downside is that your parts will take a bit longer to print. In my experience, parts that look great but take a bit longer are well worth the wait.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3824,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,handle,2.1782824847157594,3.9369334896349293,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Flow Settings in Cura 2.4 for Ultimaker 2+ not available (suspected overextrusion filling small holes),\"Cura 2.4 reports that the (printer-dependant) G-Code mode prevents the \"\"Flow\"\" (extrusion rate adjustment percentage) setting from being available. Why? I am using an Ultimaker 2+. Is a firmware update required?\n\nI know the \"\"Flow\"\" can by dynamically adjusted on the 3D printer (either in materials or while printing).\n\nI am asking because I have small holes (1 mm) that seem to slice fine but get filled so the extrusion probably is not that optimally tuned. I suspected reducing the material rate would improve this but changing it on the printer (97%) did not yield noticable results and below that it looked worse.\n\",Tim Kuipers,\"For the Ultimaker 2 flow is typically handled on the printer.\n\nYou could make a feature request at github to let Flow be enabled for Ultimaker 2 printers.\n\nAs for your problem: that sounds more like a dimensional accuracy problem to me. I suggest setting Horizontal Expansion to -0.15mm.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3826,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jake Blocker,2.1782824847157594,4.366414760930862,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,Delta 3D printer extruder?,\"I've never gotten a 3D printer, nor do I know very much about them, but I'm thinking of buying a delta 3D printer kit for around $450. When I looked online of some disadvantages of Delta printers I found that they typically don't have Bowden extruders. I'm wondering what are the advantages of a Bowden extruder and should I spend more money in a 3D printer just to get one.\n\",Mikhail Z,\"The only advantage of Bowden extruder is a reduced mass of moving parts attached to the effector.\n\nAll other differences from direct extruder are to the Bowden's disadvantages. Generally speaking, Bowden-type extruder has much worse control of filament extrusion than direct one.\n\nSince most of the modern consumer-grade printers suffer from low rigidity, reducing mass seems as a good trade-off to the printers' manufacturers.\n\nUnfortunately, for the Delta printers trading speed for quality may not be so effective. Delta construction is used with the only goal to achieve highest possible speed of printing. As a contrary, Bowden extruder becomes less precise with the speed increase. This makes it unreasonable to increase print speed at some point when printing quality degrades below acceptable.\n\nAs a result, at this moment of time, Delta printers with Bowden extruder is a clear sign of under-performing device.\n\nTo answer your question: there is no reason to pay extra for the Delta printer with Bowden extruder, although I doubt that a printer with similar characteristics and a direct extruder would be cheaper.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3826,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jake Blocker,2.1782824847157594,4.366414760930862,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,Delta 3D printer extruder?,\"I've never gotten a 3D printer, nor do I know very much about them, but I'm thinking of buying a delta 3D printer kit for around $450. When I looked online of some disadvantages of Delta printers I found that they typically don't have Bowden extruders. I'm wondering what are the advantages of a Bowden extruder and should I spend more money in a 3D printer just to get one.\n\",PikesPeakCode,\"My FLSUN Kossel 3D Delta printer ($224) has a bowden extruder. It works really well too.\n\nThe main advantage of having one is that it reduces the mass of the hot end. That means less inertia, and it's easier on the driver motors as well. All this leads to (hopefully) greater and more precise control at the extruder tip, and, best of all, faster printing.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n4166,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jake Blocker,1.0891412423578797,4.108927526259478,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,How to fix bad extrusion on my printer,\"Around 30% into a large print I had to cancel as the layers of the print were not full layers and looked very stringy. Here's a couple pictures of what it looked like.\n\n\n\n\n\nI have a feeling that it may be because of my retraction settings either being too high or too fast as this section it was printing had to use a lot of retraction. My retraction settings are 40mm/s for 4.5mm. I was printing at a pretty slow speed (around 55mm/s), and I'm sure confused on why it's not extruding properly at certain times. If anyone has any idea on what is happening and how to fix it it will be gladly appreciated!\n\nI have an Anycubic Delta linear printer with a Bowden extruder, I use white 1.75 mm PLA at 200C, .4mm nozzle\n\",TECTEC3 Studios,\"Try using 20 mm/s and 3.9 mm for your retraction and that should help. Also, what is your fan speed at?\n\",0.0,0.0\n4166,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jake Blocker,1.0891412423578797,4.108927526259478,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,How to fix bad extrusion on my printer,\"Around 30% into a large print I had to cancel as the layers of the print were not full layers and looked very stringy. Here's a couple pictures of what it looked like.\n\n\n\n\n\nI have a feeling that it may be because of my retraction settings either being too high or too fast as this section it was printing had to use a lot of retraction. My retraction settings are 40mm/s for 4.5mm. I was printing at a pretty slow speed (around 55mm/s), and I'm sure confused on why it's not extruding properly at certain times. If anyone has any idea on what is happening and how to fix it it will be gladly appreciated!\n\nI have an Anycubic Delta linear printer with a Bowden extruder, I use white 1.75 mm PLA at 200C, .4mm nozzle\n\",Robert Nelson,\"It appears that at a certain point, you're running into issues with the extrusion being a bit too viscous / melted causing it to over-deposit or string (fail to retract completely). It also looks like this issue gradually gets worse as you go. This really feels like nozzle over-heating to me.\n\n\n\nMy troubleshooting steps would go like this:\n\n\nMake sure my cooling it set correctly and fan is working properly. The nozzle doesn't adjust its temp for changes in extrusion speed. At times the printer has to rely on the cooling to get the extrusion leaving the nozzle to an ideal deposition temp, which is far lower than the temperate of the nozzle.\nCheck my tool paths to make sure I'm not starting to return to the same X/Y position too immediately when I reach certain layers, not allowing the previous layer to fully solidify. Consider tweaking the slicer or printing at a lower temperate.\nCheck if there's a lot of variance in print speeds for different tasks (shell, infill, etc). It can be hard for some printers to maintain the right temp for the extrusion about to be deposited if the speed changes too rapidly. If your printer has been heating extrusion rapidly for quick movements and then the speed slows way down, it can struggle to keep the subsequent slow filament from getting overcooked, as it can't instantly cool the nozzle even with proper cooling. Bring the various extrusion speeds closer together.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3837,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Eric F,1.0891412423578797,3.071923460387521,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,TAIG CNC - Z axis getting bound,\"First of all I apologize if this stack exchange site isn't the proper spot for CNC questions but I do not see any other ones that are close. If the community feels this is too far off topic then just let me know and I will remove this question. Even though this is for a CNC machine, the same issue could exist for a 3D printer. I do know this is very specific to the TAIG CNC.\n\nCurrently I have the TAIG CNC machine. Recently it has been getting bound when going up in the positive Z direction. It will go down no problem but when going up, at certain points the motor will make a high pitch noise like it normally does when it hits a Z extreme. At these points if I manually try to crank (with the controller off) it is very hard to move up. This indicates that it is a mechanical problem. \n\nI took apart the Z axis and understand that there is a jib inside. I do understand how the jib works, tightening and loosening the top and bottom screws to move the wedge. I have tried with the wedge all the way up (biggest gap) and all the way down, along with in between in small increments. It will go up when the jib is all the way up but if I press down with my hand barely then it gets bound so I am thinking it is something other than the jib? I am not sure which other parts I can adjust or would get stuck. I did follow the directions on youtube of setting the brass insert that is attached to the threaded rod, where I tightened it to the point of where the motor couldn't move and then backed off a little bit. Has anyone had binding troubles like this?\n\nI am a pretty new member on this forum so I apologize if I missed anything but feel free to ask any questions too.\n\",Eric F,\"So inside the Z axis is a brass component that is connected to the threaded rod (lead screw). This brass component has 3 screws and depending how tight / loose, determines how much it will bind up. You of course don't want it too loose otherwise the enclosure will \"\"jump\"\" off of the track at times. In my case, the two screws were too tight. The way I determined how tight to go was taking the entire Z track off of the back, tightening both screws just to the point of binding and then backing off 1/2 turn on both.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n3838,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kevin Mamaqi,1.726248027126092,4.365253814284499,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,Why does the Ultimaker 3D Printer has a Heater + Heater transfer plate (aluminium) + Glass?,\"Why does the Ultimaker 3D Printer has a Heater + Heater transfer plate (aluminium) + Glass?\n\nI wonder why a glass plate, and if is possible to remove the glass and print directly in the aluminium plate adjusting the heating.\n\nLink to the ultimaker.\n\nPictures:\n\n\n\n\n\",tbm0115,\"According to this page, heat transfers more evenly across an aluminum build plate than with just glass. But as Kevin pointed PLA adheres better to glass because it doesn't flex as much as aluminum under heat.\n\nThe link above shows that aluminum has a much higher thermal conductivity at 205 (W/(mK)) vs glass at 105 (W/(mK)) at 25 °C (77 °F).\n\nBecause of this conductivity difference, you may find that it takes longer to heat the glass plate, but it should heat more evenly.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n3838,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kevin Mamaqi,1.726248027126092,4.365253814284499,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,Why does the Ultimaker 3D Printer has a Heater + Heater transfer plate (aluminium) + Glass?,\"Why does the Ultimaker 3D Printer has a Heater + Heater transfer plate (aluminium) + Glass?\n\nI wonder why a glass plate, and if is possible to remove the glass and print directly in the aluminium plate adjusting the heating.\n\nLink to the ultimaker.\n\nPictures:\n\n\n\n\n\",Kevin,\"Printing directly onto aluminum is something I've never seen before, likely due to the fact that PLA (and other materials) do not adhere reliably to aluminum. Instead, many opt to use blue tape, kapton tape, PEI, buildtak/commercial build surface, or an additional build surface, such as glass. When heated, clean glass can be directly printed on. The use of a glue stick, wood glue, isopropyl alcohol, the above adhesion aids, and others can help adhere your part better hot or cold.\n\nCan you remove the glass, add any of the above to the aluminum plate, and print on that? So long as it's a clean, flat surface, yes. But it'll be more work for you to replace or clean the build surface, as you won't be able to simply remove the glass and replace it. You're not gaining much by taking out the glass. A slightly faster bed heat-up, perhaps.\n\nAs for why Ultimaker went with an aluminum transfer plate, that is a slightly more engineering oriented question.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3850,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ethan lee,1.0891412423578797,3.7479705370162373,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,My anet a2 auto-homes incorrectly,\"I just made my anet a2, and when I hit auto-home it goes off the board makes a loud clacking sound going down a bit (under the heat bed but off to the side). Any suggestions?\n\",user6759,\"Your limit switches are not working properly - they should always hit.\n\nDo the following steps:\n\n\nMove axis in all possible directions, both positive and negative;\nCheck limit switch wiring;\nLimit switch output.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3877,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ethan lee,1.0891412423578797,5.024349183686798,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.878685800062712,Anet A6's filament not feeding through the nozzle,\"Whenever I try putting the filament through the nozzle it does not go through. I have searched everywhere online and have found nothing.\n\",A Bailey,\"My first step would be to cut the filament at a bit of an angle. This will help the filament enter the extruder correctly. \n\nIf you're still having trouble, you may have a clogged nozzle. This article by Lifewire -3D Printer Extruder Nozzle Clogged? Here Is How To Unclog It has some good info.\n\nI've also heard stories about the Bowden Tube (the PTFE tube that guides the filament from the extruder to the hotend) becoming warped or melted in cases where the printer's temperature control went awry. This is rare as PTFE doesn't melt until 320°C. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3877,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ethan lee,1.0891412423578797,5.024349183686798,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.878685800062712,Anet A6's filament not feeding through the nozzle,\"Whenever I try putting the filament through the nozzle it does not go through. I have searched everywhere online and have found nothing.\n\",Nicholas Forystek,\"I think my PTFE shaft is in reverse when it was assembled and sent out. One side is the metal shaft only the other side the PTFE inner shaft. I read about filament shavings from poor feeding, so it wouldn't make sense initial feeder takes on hard metal where it might shave it and obstruct ease, also the nozzle and the filament must need well heat so it doesn't make sense the PTFE is screwed in nearest the nozzle, rather the metal should conduct against it. Thus also the thermal reading would be off from it not applied to the actual filament just around it. In bike breaks it's to prevent the scraping of the metal chord against the metal housing upon where it exists the housing. One of the video's suggested using twisty ties for the belt as well, with four extra pieces same as two which are used on the track at the bed, a non one time use disposable clamp can be made with extra screws, for each instead of the twisty ties, so it stands to reason likely however it maybe the sales/distribution form manufacture has poor communication or not at all instructions is how these discrepancies arrive. IN MY OPINION. Reverse the shaft from extrude to the nozzle if you don't see Teflon at the extrude part, I have not tested it myself yet, but I'm going to. My unit as well seems poor ability to print at all. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3924,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ethan lee,2.1782824847157594,4.965082714378039,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.3995491493854546,Anet A8 won't print,\"I have just built my Anet A8 and it won't print. \n\nI will preheat it (190°C 60°C) and then press \"\"Print File\"\" and select, then it starts for a second, gets to around 11% and stops and shows \"\"Preheat PLA\"\". The PLA is already preheated - it is coming out of the nozzle. \n\nAny help would be appreciated.\n\",Vosem Media,\"I had a similar problem last week where the thermostat's heat shrink was being melted by the block and the two wires were touching. I fixed this by securing the thermistor and putting a thermal insulator between the block and the wires. I also put a small piece of heat shrink between the wires to insulate them so they will never touch. Thank you and I hope this helps.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n3924,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ethan lee,2.1782824847157594,4.965082714378039,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.3995491493854546,Anet A8 won't print,\"I have just built my Anet A8 and it won't print. \n\nI will preheat it (190°C 60°C) and then press \"\"Print File\"\" and select, then it starts for a second, gets to around 11% and stops and shows \"\"Preheat PLA\"\". The PLA is already preheated - it is coming out of the nozzle. \n\nAny help would be appreciated.\n\",joe b,\"The Anet A8 files that come preloaded are .stl so if you try to print those it will say printing zero percent and then just switch right back to preheating PLA without any error message. Download a free slicer tool if that's the case.\n\",0.0,0.0\n3854,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Azdle,3.267423727073639,3.9729059858762246,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.548335113978322,3.9829738809469584,Is there any reason *not* to use a steel nozzle for printing all materials?,\"I know that for printing some materials like the carbon-fiber filled PLA it's recommenced to use a steel nozzle since it'll wear-out a standard brass nozzle quickly. Is there any reason to prefer using a brass nozzle for 'simple' plastic-only filaments instead of just printing everything with steel?\n\",Mikhail Z,\"Thermal conductivity of brass is approximately twice as better than steel (not stainless). Given that the size of nozzle is relatively small, it should be able to transfer enough heat for a medium-speed prints at least.\nI have printed PLA and ABS using \"\"steel\"\" nozzle (brand of steel unknown) at the speed around 80mm/s without any visible differences compared to brass.\n\nHowever ideal nozzle I see as made of tempered bronze with polished inner channels. Bronze is known to have better friction coefficient and tempered one should be enough to resist carbon-type filaments more efficiently.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n3859,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Aspicas,2.1782824847157594,4.3499795107719414,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How to join pieces automatically using interlocking or similar?,\"I have a piece, which I need to cut into two different pieces, see image 1.\n\nImage 1\n\n\n\nThen I need to make interlocking joints or similar, see image 2. \n\nImage 2\n\n\n\nHow can I do that automatically, using Solidworks or another program?\n\nIt's an *.STL file so I can easily manipulate all parts without any errors.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"I'm not qualified to advise regarding Solidworks, but can suggest a process and concept from which you may be able to adapt to your software.\n\nAs you have the two pieces currently in STL form, it makes things only slightly more difficult. Consider to align them parametrically so the faces contact and the edges are coincidental. The block STL will appear as a single cube, in the example you've provided.\n\nCreate and place a mating cylinder piece in the desired position as you've shown in the second image. It is a common feature of many 3D modeling programs to be able to perform a subtraction of one part from another. It is equally common to be able to merge two parts into a single manifold part.\n\nSave the file containing the three parts.\n\nSelect either block and the cylinder. You can delete or otherwise hide or deselect the unused block. Perform a subtraction on the remaining pair. Save this file under a different name.\n\nReload the three parts file.\n\nSelect the other block and cylinder, perform a union of the pair. Save this file under a different name.\n\nRather than saving the three parts in a file, one can frequently save the joined or subtracted part and perform an undo until the three parts return. This is a faster more convenient method.\n\nI have performed the above steps in Meshmixer and know that it can be done in Blender, if one is skilled in these programs. \n\nI've performed an internet search for \"\"perform boolean subtraction solidworks\"\" and found multiple results for this process. One link references the \"\"cavity\"\" feature for subtraction. I did not search for boolean union and leave this as an exercise for the reader.\n\nConsider also to plan for this activity in the future by leaving the block intact, unsliced, place the cylinder, perform the boolean action, then slice it as desired. The sequence of saves and/or undo actions will be different from above, but may be easier than re-aligning a previously sliced \"\"block\"\" or item.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3866,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Johan Zietsman,3.0576060275493275,4.23088218665031,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Filament material for chemical application,\"I am doing laboratory experiments and need to print some components.\n\nI am working with different aqueous (water) solutions containing sulphuric acid (H2SO4), hydrochloric acid (HCl), and hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), separately and in combination. The pH of the solutions are in the range 0 to 7. Temperatures don't exceed 40° Celsius.\n\nIn another application we have aqueous solutions containing high concentrations of FeCl3, HCl and in some cases H2O2 at temperatures of up to 180° Celsius.\n\nWhich 3D printing filament materials can you recommend for these applications?\n\",Diesel,\"There are two issues you have here, one is temperature stability and the other is chemical reactivity of plastics. I can't help you with the chemistry side, but I can help with the temperature. \n\nApplication 1 (Temp < 40 °C)\n\nAny FDM plastic will perform reasonably well under these temperatures. I would suggest trying a Nylon, PETG or a PolyCarbonate filament as I know these are more resistant to acids than PLA or ABS. As far as strength of the parts, all FDM plastics will work well\n\nApplication 2 (Temp > 180 °C)\n\nThis temperature range is above the glass transition temperature of the PLA, ABS, PETG and Nylon are all well below 180 °C and therefore aren't worth considering. Your best option is PolyCarbonate, or PolyCarbonate-ABS which are both fairly high (roughly 140-150 °C). However, are both below your minimum temperature threshold.\n\nMy conclusion is to try a polycarbonate sample and see how it reacts to the chemicals you're working with, though it doesn't look hopeful.\n\nFor Chemical reactivity, I did some Google-fu and found a few links that look helpful for PolyCarbonate:\n\n\nChemical resistance polycarbonate \nPolycarbonate Chemical Compatibility Chart\n\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n3874,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Marius,3.0576060275493275,4.837300596782791,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,\"What do the pink colors in Slic3r preview signify? If it signifies a problem, how do I fix it?\",\"What does the pink color in Slic3r preview mean? Yellow is my model, green is support, and pink is..?\n\nIf the pink color is some kind of warning, how do I fix it?\n\n\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Having had direct experience with Slic3r, I can offer up this information. Your model is composed of bottom layers, top layers, outside layers, infill, rafts, brims and perhaps something I've missed.\n\nThe program provides for color coding of these features. In the case of your image, the pink represents a top layer, but may also represent a type of infill, depending on \"\"context.\"\"\n\nConsider to slice the model, select the preview tab, which you have showing here, then using the slider control to the right of the image window. As you move it from bottom to top, you can observe the construction of the model and each feature as it appears, layer by layer.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3874,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Marius,3.0576060275493275,4.837300596782791,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,\"What do the pink colors in Slic3r preview signify? If it signifies a problem, how do I fix it?\",\"What does the pink color in Slic3r preview mean? Yellow is my model, green is support, and pink is..?\n\nIf the pink color is some kind of warning, how do I fix it?\n\n\n\",Davo,\"In slic3r preview, salmon (pink) represents infill, yellow represents perimeters, and green represents support material, including skirt and brim.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n3967,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Marius,2.8153892694839717,5.095479112329593,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,What motherboard ID is appropriate for MKS BASE V1.5 in Marlin Firmware?,\"I'm struggling with my new printer, and I just want to make sure that I have the basic configured correctly. \n\nWhat motherboard ID in configuration.h is appropriate for MKS BASE V1.5 in Marlin Firmware?\n\",tjb1,\"Marlin appears to support older versions of the board (and possibly this one) according to this line \n\n#define BOARD_MKS_13 47 // MKS v1.3 or 1.4 (maybe higher)\n\n\nin boards.h which can be found here. \n\nThe company also has a guide and looks to provide pre-configured (but not fully configured?) downloads of Marlin. They have different links for different displays but then ask you to change lines manually but don't mention changing the board so I have no idea what they are doing or what is different between the downloads.\n\nIt appears either way you go (Marlin from Github or from Osoyoo) you will need to change some lines to get each axis to behave correctly.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n3967,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Marius,2.8153892694839717,5.095479112329593,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,What motherboard ID is appropriate for MKS BASE V1.5 in Marlin Firmware?,\"I'm struggling with my new printer, and I just want to make sure that I have the basic configured correctly. \n\nWhat motherboard ID in configuration.h is appropriate for MKS BASE V1.5 in Marlin Firmware?\n\",0scar,\"A more recent version of Marlin Firmware (version 1.1.9 is the last release of this branch, new developments are done in the 2.x branch) nowadays has a separate board constant for the MKS BASE v1.5 board (BOARD_MKS_BASE_15) as can be found in boards.h.\n\nThe following line quotes the constant for this board from the file:\n\n\n #define BOARD_MKS_BASE_15 405 // MKS v1.5 with Allegro A4982 stepper drivers\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4554,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Marius,2.528907649931287,4.688799442998175,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,How to make an object hold water,\"I made a tea bowl, but it leaked when making it in PLA...\n\nWhat are the key points to keep in mind when designing and printing an object that is intended to hold water using an FDM printer? \n\",Sean Houlihane,\"I've found that a double-walled base seems to give better results than trying to make the base very thick. Any imperfections in the print, or cracking caused by removing the print can lead to leaks - but if there is layer/infill/layer, the result seems to turn out better for me.\n\nVase mode can be effective (although won't be easy to combine with the above unless you slice your model in several parts), and I've had success whilst using 100% vase mode for vases to hold water. This demonstrates that a single wall thickness is sufficient to achieve a watertight print.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n4554,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Marius,2.528907649931287,4.688799442998175,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,How to make an object hold water,\"I made a tea bowl, but it leaked when making it in PLA...\n\nWhat are the key points to keep in mind when designing and printing an object that is intended to hold water using an FDM printer? \n\",Harvey Lim,\"When designing the object, you should make sure your object is completely enclosed (obviously). When printing, try increasing the print temperature so that the layers stick to each other well. The most important thing is the print temperature, because if the layers don't adhere to each other well, you will get a leak. The wall thickness of the object can be thin, as long as it isn't so thin that it has too little strength to hold anything. \n\nSome tips:\n\n\nPrinting in vase mode can save loads of time, otherwise the printer wastes time doing each layer separately. \nYour nozzle should be 0.4 mm and up, otherwise the print will take forever.\n\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n3884,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris M.,2.1782824847157594,3.565257109573455,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,Snap-in clamp geometry,\"I apologize if this is in the wrong section, but it seems relevant.\n\nI am an absolute noob at 3D printing, but recently my need for a specific, small part intersected with access to a 3D printer at work (Zortrax M200), so I figured now was a good opportunity to get into printing.\n\nI am designing a clamp for smaller can capacitors that will hold them upright from a mounting surface. I would like the capacitors to snap into the clamp, but I am struggling to find information on how wide the opening to the clamp should be. It clearly needs to be smaller than the diameter of the clamp, but I'm not sure how much smaller it can be without snapping the clamp arms.\n\nIs there a rule of thumb or general guideline for this type of geometry? I am using Z-ULTRAT, which is some proprietary filament made by Zortrax. It seems to be similar to ABS in terms of strength properties, but stiffer.\n\nI don't have an image at the moment, but I can provide one tomorrow when I have access to the part files. The best analog I can think of is a LEGO figure's hands.\n\nThanks.\n\nEdit: Per requests for additional information:\n\n\nI am not sure what is considered a \"\"thin\"\" wall; currently, the clamp walls are 2mm thick at the thinnest point (where the push-in opening is).\nI would like the walls to be just flexible enough to allow the cap to be seated without breaking - it is more critical that the cap is not loose in the socket.\nThe clamp is not going to be subject to repeated stress cycles - by the time the cap needs replacing, it's likely I'll need to print a new clamp as well.\nWith my estimations for cooling, I do not expect the clamp to see temperatures above 100C.\n\n\nEdit 2:\n\nBased on the link in the comments below, I came up with the following design:\n\n\nThe little nubbins in the back fit into the \"\"neck\"\" at the bottom of the capacitor to provide some positive lock. 220 degrees of surround with 4mm thick arms - I think this should work.\n\",AndrewP,\"I am sure someone much smarter will be able to point you towards datasheets and maths equations that will tell you exactly what you could/can't do, however, I would say it depends on a few things:\n\n\nMaterial - some materials have more give/flexibility, others have less. Depending how hot you expect the caps/surrounding components to get may also influence choices.\nWall thickness - Are you just after a 'thin walled' print, or something more solid. Thinner walls tend to be more flexible.\nReusability - are you going to snap the cap in once or twice, or thousands of times?\n\n\nI would hazard a guess that about 210-220 degrees of \"\"surrounding\"\" would be enough.\n\nCan you try it and see? Or do you only have one shot?\n\",0.0,0.0\n3884,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris M.,2.1782824847157594,3.565257109573455,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,Snap-in clamp geometry,\"I apologize if this is in the wrong section, but it seems relevant.\n\nI am an absolute noob at 3D printing, but recently my need for a specific, small part intersected with access to a 3D printer at work (Zortrax M200), so I figured now was a good opportunity to get into printing.\n\nI am designing a clamp for smaller can capacitors that will hold them upright from a mounting surface. I would like the capacitors to snap into the clamp, but I am struggling to find information on how wide the opening to the clamp should be. It clearly needs to be smaller than the diameter of the clamp, but I'm not sure how much smaller it can be without snapping the clamp arms.\n\nIs there a rule of thumb or general guideline for this type of geometry? I am using Z-ULTRAT, which is some proprietary filament made by Zortrax. It seems to be similar to ABS in terms of strength properties, but stiffer.\n\nI don't have an image at the moment, but I can provide one tomorrow when I have access to the part files. The best analog I can think of is a LEGO figure's hands.\n\nThanks.\n\nEdit: Per requests for additional information:\n\n\nI am not sure what is considered a \"\"thin\"\" wall; currently, the clamp walls are 2mm thick at the thinnest point (where the push-in opening is).\nI would like the walls to be just flexible enough to allow the cap to be seated without breaking - it is more critical that the cap is not loose in the socket.\nThe clamp is not going to be subject to repeated stress cycles - by the time the cap needs replacing, it's likely I'll need to print a new clamp as well.\nWith my estimations for cooling, I do not expect the clamp to see temperatures above 100C.\n\n\nEdit 2:\n\nBased on the link in the comments below, I came up with the following design:\n\n\nThe little nubbins in the back fit into the \"\"neck\"\" at the bottom of the capacitor to provide some positive lock. 220 degrees of surround with 4mm thick arms - I think this should work.\n\",Chris M.,\"Based on the links and insights provided, I was able to adjust my design to that shown in Edit 2. I opted to instead have it professionally printed via Sculpteo for a very reasonable price, and can say that the design works as intended.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n3886,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,carveone,2.528907649931287,4.3171230629367,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,Embedding nuts and washers into print,\"I am creating a 3D printed part which will act as an attachment between a plate (actually a strain gauge) with two M2.5 bolts and a 2kg load with a single M4 bolt. I wouldn't be happy with tapping a screw thread into the print itself so I want to try embedding the nuts into the print itself - so I'll pause the print at the right layer and then insert the nut and, hopefully, the print will resume.\n\nI'm wondering is it worth also including washers? It's a major pain because, while a nut can be captive in a hex space, a washer is circular. So it needs to be glued down on insertion in case it rotates while the printer is printing on top of it.\n\nFor a 2kg load I don't believe the nut will attempt to pull through the part but there isn't a whole lot of support between the bore hole and the edge of an M2.5 nut though, only about 1mm.\n\nEdit: I'll add an image of my initial design. The strain gauge is one of a set pulled out of a weighing scales (from Lidl, €5.99. You can buy each separately on the internet for 20 euro, so I saved 74 euro!). The gauge itself is mounted on the narrow \"\"neck\"\" of the gauge. The whole block will drop into a holder that grabs the outer edge of the gauge.\n\n\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"It could depend on how well your printer-filament type combination can bridge. If you can generate bridges wider than the washer diameter, then print not only the hex recess but a disc recess for the washer, then print over both.\n\nHowever, my preference would be to redesign the part so that the washer&hex nut are on the far side of the part so that you don't need to deal with printing over&around them. This has the added advantage that you can replace the nut if it ever gets worn or stripped. \n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n3886,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,carveone,2.528907649931287,4.3171230629367,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,Embedding nuts and washers into print,\"I am creating a 3D printed part which will act as an attachment between a plate (actually a strain gauge) with two M2.5 bolts and a 2kg load with a single M4 bolt. I wouldn't be happy with tapping a screw thread into the print itself so I want to try embedding the nuts into the print itself - so I'll pause the print at the right layer and then insert the nut and, hopefully, the print will resume.\n\nI'm wondering is it worth also including washers? It's a major pain because, while a nut can be captive in a hex space, a washer is circular. So it needs to be glued down on insertion in case it rotates while the printer is printing on top of it.\n\nFor a 2kg load I don't believe the nut will attempt to pull through the part but there isn't a whole lot of support between the bore hole and the edge of an M2.5 nut though, only about 1mm.\n\nEdit: I'll add an image of my initial design. The strain gauge is one of a set pulled out of a weighing scales (from Lidl, €5.99. You can buy each separately on the internet for 20 euro, so I saved 74 euro!). The gauge itself is mounted on the narrow \"\"neck\"\" of the gauge. The whole block will drop into a holder that grabs the outer edge of the gauge.\n\n\n\",fectin - free Monica,\"I've had good luck with just leaving a hex-shaped hole in the print, and press-fitting in the nut afterwards. You'll want the axis of the bolt to be along the z-axis, and to use a fair amount of infill and shells. I usually use PLA, so YMMV slightly.\n\nYou may also want to consider your strain gauge setup carefully. If you're doing something like making a hook out of the ABS and the plate is acting as a lever arm, you need to make sure the lever arm length is the same every time, or your calibration will be wrong.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n3887,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,pperrin,2.528907649931287,4.435848040175207,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Printing shells and pouring filler,\"I had this idea for bulky parts for just printing the shell (PLA) then pouring in some kind of filler in to make up the bulk/strength.\n\nPrinting bulk .2mm at a time line by line is slow and subject to warping!\n\nSo I though precision print a shell and fill it with 'something' - has this been done by anyone? What is a good something to use?\n\nYours hopefully!\n\",Davo,\"Or you could use a second head to do low-density infill with very thick layers, like a 1.5mm nozzle and 1.2mm layers.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3887,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,pperrin,2.528907649931287,4.435848040175207,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Printing shells and pouring filler,\"I had this idea for bulky parts for just printing the shell (PLA) then pouring in some kind of filler in to make up the bulk/strength.\n\nPrinting bulk .2mm at a time line by line is slow and subject to warping!\n\nSo I though precision print a shell and fill it with 'something' - has this been done by anyone? What is a good something to use?\n\nYours hopefully!\n\",Diesel,\"I've looked into doing something similar to this before and love the idea, never had the chance to follow through on it yet. This is sort of a hybrid method between cast molding and 3D printing. \n\nThe accepted answer to a question I had a while back had some very good points by fred_dot_u\n\nPost processing FDM for strengrh\n\nShort version, Epoxy is a good option but you may have to consider heat generated from it. Urethane is another really good option (cast urethane is a pretty standard process). Chem-Eng isn't my area of expertise but there is a huge range of material options out there that can be mixed as two parts. I think there are enough options out there right now that you can choose your material properties you need and then select the material from there.\n\nYou could also consider going the chopped-fiber composite route. (carbon, glass, etc) and then combine with whatever the appropriate resin is for those materials. \n\nI see the most difficult part of this is getting the shells to print properly. When I had looked into doing this, I considered modeling my part then hollowing it out completely. Then going back into the hollow part and designing in minimal internal structures for the purpose of supporting the thin-walled shell model. Printing that, and then drilling and filling the part after the fact. This approach I see as being a good option however the location of the drill points would be critical otherwise you could get voids as your fill material is injected in. And, the additional modeling time wouldn't be insignificant, however the saving I expected would come from having a ridiculously strong part, with complex geometry and be significantly cheaper than even a cast-urethane part.\n\nIf you get some good results, please post a link to them! This is a huge interest of mine!\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3889,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Philipp Ludwig,3.0576060275493275,3.985163827898809,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.929104701733314,3.8163118060828776,How can I avoid that a small bit of filament sticks out of the nozzle during heating?,\"So when my Prusa I3 is heating up, a small bit of filament is coming out of the nozzle, forming a small string at.\n\nWhen the printing starts, this results in a small plastic ball on the bed, impacting the overall printing process.\n\nHow can I avoid this?\n\",tjb1,\"On my Kossel Mini I programmed it to go to the edge of the bed and purge a small amount of filament which creates a dot. I purge enough to get the dot to stick to the bed and then go on with printing, when the head moves the dot stays attached and usually pulls excess material off the nozzle. This can be added to the \"\"Starting G-Code\"\" section of your slicer.\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n3889,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Philipp Ludwig,3.0576060275493275,3.985163827898809,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.929104701733314,3.8163118060828776,How can I avoid that a small bit of filament sticks out of the nozzle during heating?,\"So when my Prusa I3 is heating up, a small bit of filament is coming out of the nozzle, forming a small string at.\n\nWhen the printing starts, this results in a small plastic ball on the bed, impacting the overall printing process.\n\nHow can I avoid this?\n\",Davo,\"I normally print a skirt. This acts as a quality check for: flow rate; bed adhesion; bed level; and proper zero position in the Z. \n\",3.367452517504837,0.0\n3902,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,wass,1.726248027126092,4.466588741384389,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Is it possible to 3D print sharp objects with high details? And how?,\"I mean 3D forms like these? In a small scale (height: 1-2 cm, width: 0.5 cm).\n\n\n\n\n\nI want to keep all the form's details.\n\nIf it is possible, what printer do you advise? How much does it cost to print one piece like that in terms of ink? And what is the most permissive software for this kind of printing?\n\",Golightly,\"You could use something like a Stratsys Objet 30 Pro. \n\nThe printer uses layers of liquid deposited on a bed and cured with UV light, instead of extruded plastics. This just means that the level of detail you can achieve is far higher than that typically achieved by a conventional ABS or PLA printer. That being said, the materials and machine hours tend to be more expensive than conventional printers (about 40% higher in the specific facility I am exposed to). \n\nIf you are well versed in 3D printing, you could play around with the air-gapping (forced overlapping of layers due to z-axis head positioning in ABS and PLA). Can cause wear on the head, and takes some playing with but in some cases has yielded me a higher perceived level of detail. Also, makes some part features stronger. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3902,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,wass,1.726248027126092,4.466588741384389,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Is it possible to 3D print sharp objects with high details? And how?,\"I mean 3D forms like these? In a small scale (height: 1-2 cm, width: 0.5 cm).\n\n\n\n\n\nI want to keep all the form's details.\n\nIf it is possible, what printer do you advise? How much does it cost to print one piece like that in terms of ink? And what is the most permissive software for this kind of printing?\n\",Axel Fernandes,\"Don't waste your time on SLA or FDM machines.\n\nIf you use SLA, it might print but you risk breaking the sharp edges during support removal and FDM is just a another level of pain for support removal. \n\nPrint this using SLS and Polyamide 2200 or PA 12, they both are the same material.\n\nShould come out of the machine exactly the way you need with those sharp edges intact. \n\nSLS technology does not require any support material.\n\nYou should be able to get it printed at any professional service bureau near to you, just google to find them.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3904,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mark Harrison,3.452496054252184,6.474060972877783,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.749318730431847,4.208576161768494,\"What are the \"\"magic numbers\"\" on a Monoprice Select Mini?\",\"What are the \"\"magic numbers\"\" people refer to regarding print resolution on the Monoprice Select Mini?\n\",Mark Harrison,\"The \"\"magic numbers\"\" are optimal values that work particularly well for the layer height. Michael O'Brien derived these numbers by reverse engineering the mechanics of the Z-axis stepper motor.\n\nUsing these values as your layer height will generally improve your print quality over using round layer heights such as 0.15, 0.2, or 0.25 by eliminating quantization errors.\n\nTo see an example of this, print a copy of 3DBenchy at 0.15 and 0.175. On the 0.15, you will see some wavy patterns on the curved bow portion compared to the 0.175. This is the result of inexact rounding.\n\nLayer Height (mm)\n0.04375 (results may vary)*\n0.0875\n0.13125\n0.175\n0.21875\n0.2625\n0.30625\n\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n4389,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mark Harrison,1.0891412423578797,5.208021389956698,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Octoprint: Reducing Camera Lag Time?,\"I've got a webcam (Logitech ProductID_2470, according to my Mac) attached to my Octopi running on a RPi 3B.\n\nI am able to get the video on the Octoprint display page, but the lag is huge: over 50 seconds.\n\nHow can I diagnose the problem and reduce this lag time?\n\",Mark Harrison,\"This was due to a slow Wifi connection. It was fast enough for the low bandwidth of printer commands and status reports, but the video feed was overwhelming the connection.\n\nAdding a Wifi repeater increased the bandwidth and fixed the issue.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n4416,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mark Harrison,2.8153892694839717,3.3519732380519804,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,How do I modify Cura's code generation?,\"Cura is generating temperature commands in the wrong order. I need to swap lines 6 and 7 below so that both the printhead and bed can begin to heat at the same time.\n\nIs this code generation configurable in Cura?\n\n5 ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 2.5.0\n6 M190 S60 ; set bed and block\n7 M104 S215 ; set printhead, don't block\n8 M109 S215 ; set printhead, block\n\n\",bgiv,\"You can do so by placing this at the top of the start code under machine settings (tested on 2.6.1).\n\nM104 S{material_print_temperature}\nM190 S{material_bed_temperature}\n\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n4484,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mark Harrison,1.0891412423578797,4.4295306610047485,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,How do I upgrade (copy settings) from Cura 2.5 to Cura 2.6?,\"On my Mac I've got two versions of Cura installed, in /Applications/Cura250 and /Applications/Cura262.\n\nHow can I copy my printer and profile settings from Cura 2.5 to Cura 2.6?\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"Hope this is all you need.\nFrom the release notes page \n\n\n Cura 2.6 - June 20, 2017 Local version folders. When installing a new\n version of Cura, a new local directory will be created to make it easy\n to access old configuration folders and return to old settings if\n necessary.\n\n\nSo if you know where your current 2.5 config directory is, you should be all set. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4484,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mark Harrison,1.0891412423578797,4.4295306610047485,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,How do I upgrade (copy settings) from Cura 2.5 to Cura 2.6?,\"On my Mac I've got two versions of Cura installed, in /Applications/Cura250 and /Applications/Cura262.\n\nHow can I copy my printer and profile settings from Cura 2.5 to Cura 2.6?\n\",Mark Harrison,\"From the Ultimaker Forum:\n\n\nLaunch Cura 2.6 and go to Help -> Show Configuration folder. Now close Cura.\nThese are the configuration files for Cura 2.6. They are in a folder named 2.6.\nOn OSX, the configuration files for Cura 2.5 are one folder up (not in a folder named 2.5). You can copy files from that parent folder into the folder named 2.6, and Cura should update them as needed the next time it is started.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n6046,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mark Harrison,2.528907649931287,5.441871348891821,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.2576023278269264,How can I create PNG image files from STL files?,\"I need to add some simple image renders of STL files to a document. I currently open the STL files in Preview or one of the slicers and grab a screen shot.\n\nIs there an easier or automatic way to generate PNG images from STL files on a Mac?\n\",Mark Harrison,\"If you have OpenSCAD installed, this shell script will generate 100x100 pixel PNG images for each STL file in your current directory.\n\nfor i in *.stl; do\n T=__tmp__$i\n b=`basename $i`\n echo import\\(\\\"\"$i\\\"\"\\)\\; >$T\n /Applications/OpenSCAD.app/Contents/MacOS/OpenSCAD -o $b.png --imgsize=100,100 $T\n rm $T\ndone\n\n\nCredit to 0scar for pointing out STL files can be imported into OpenSCAD.\n\nUpdate: This code does the same, and generates an html file with annotated images of the files rendered. When I printed a batch of spare parts for my 3D printer I made a hardcopy and stuck it in the box so I could identify the parts later.\n\nn=-1\nH=00-catalog.html\necho >$H '<table>'\necho >>$H ' <tr>'\nfor i in $*; do\n n=`expr $n + 1`\n if test $n = 4; then\n n=0\n echo >>$H ' </tr>'\n echo >>$H ' <tr>'\n fi\n echo $i\n T=__tmp__$i\n B=`basename $i .stl`\n echo import\\(\\\"\"$i\\\"\"\\)\\; >$T\n /Applications/OpenSCAD.app//Contents/MacOS/OpenSCAD -o $B.png --imgsize=200,200 $T\n echo >>$H\n echo >>$H ' <td>'$i'<br><img src=\"\"'$B'.png\"\"></td>'\n\n rm $T\ndone\necho >>$H ' </tr>'\necho >>$H '</table>'\n\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n6046,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mark Harrison,2.528907649931287,5.441871348891821,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.2576023278269264,How can I create PNG image files from STL files?,\"I need to add some simple image renders of STL files to a document. I currently open the STL files in Preview or one of the slicers and grab a screen shot.\n\nIs there an easier or automatic way to generate PNG images from STL files on a Mac?\n\",0scar,\"Typically you would install a (free) 3D model program as Fusion 360, FreeCAD, or many more options to choose from. Once installed, import the STL file and use menu options to export a picture of your STL.\n\nAlternatively, if you have some programming skills, you could import the STL file in OpenSCAD and render and export a picture from there. Simply create an OpenSCAD file with the code line below and it will import your example.stl. \n\nimport(\"\"example.stl\"\", convexity=10);\n\n\nThrough the menu you can then export the view to an image. Note that you can do that also from the command line as shown by the OP's own answer (nice example of command line usage of OpenSCAD).\n\nThese are not the only options, there are many more. E.g. this is a nice example. It also describes how Thingiverse.com does STL to web image.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6223,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mark Harrison,2.528907649931287,2.7669748712461706,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,\"Why does slic3r get an error \"\"302 moved temporarily\"\" when uploading to OctoPrint?\",\"I have configured slic3r's OctoPrint Upload section with the with hostname (\"\"octopi\"\") and port (80) of my OctoPrint server. The Test button indicates a successful connection.\n\nBut when I use \"\"Send to Printer\"\" I get an HTTP error 302.\n\nHow can I fix this?\n\n\",Mark Harrison,\"Specific answer: use \"\"octopi.local\"\" rather than \"\"octopi\"\", since that will properly resolve to the correct Octopi IP Address.\n\n\n\nMore generally, investigating the network traffic on my network (AT&T Fiber Home) revealed these facts regarding the octopi server:\n\n\nWith a browser, the octopi can be accessed via either \"\"octopi:80\"\" or \"\"octopi.local:80\"\".\nHowever, \"\"octopi\"\" actually talks to the network router, which sends a \"\"302\"\" message with the target name \"\"octopi.local\"\".\nSo, for the browser it seems either name is correct, but in actuality only \"\"octopi.local\"\" is the correct network name for the octopi system.\n\n\nAnd these facts regarding the slic3r configuration:\n\n\nslic3r does not process \"\"302\"\" messages, instead treating them as errors. This is OK, since a properly configured network won't be generating these.\nthe slic3r connection test is incomplete. It reports success because it receives an HTTP response, even though the response is a 302 rather than the version information that it is requesting.\n\n\nSo in this particular case, entering \"\"octopi.local\"\" instead of \"\"octopi\"\" corrected the error. If you receive a 302 error, you will need to research and verify the exact IP address or host name for the target Octopi system.\n\nA future version of slic3r should probably report an error on the \"\"test\"\" button if it doesn't (a) get a proper 200 return code and (b) return the proper version information as slic3r is requesting.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6266,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mark Harrison,2.1782824847157594,3.087132483714226,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,How can I tell if an STL model will need supports?,\"How can I detect if a generated STL model will need to be printed with supports?\n\nContext: I have a pipeline which parametrically generates OpenSCAD models, generates the STL, and sends them to the printer. I would like to (a) automatically detect the cases where supports are necessary so that I can specify the appropriate flags to the slicer, and (b) attempt to rotate the generated model so that supports won't be necessary.\n\",profesor79,\"You could try to:\n\n\nSlice with slicer (Cura in my case) with support enabled.\nSearch for text: TYPE:SUPPORT\n\nG0 F1800 X237.873 Y184.24\nG0 X233.869 Y183.237\n;TYPE:SUPPORT\nG1 F1500 E562.81355\nG1 F900 X233.579 Y183.939 E562.91577\nG1 X233.368 Y184.67 E563.01816\nIf it exists, then try to call it again:\nUse auto-orientation plugin to validate if there is a better (no support) model position.\n\n\nAs an alternative, you could scan the mesh and looks for an angle greater than 45 or 50 degrees.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6267,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mark Harrison,3.0576060275493275,3.8186436911337327,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.548335113978322,3.9829738809469584,Slic3r: How can I automatically modify the STL filename?,\"When generating STL files with slic3r I would like to automatically prefix the filename with strings such as PLA or PET before uploading to my printer. How can I specify this in the filament settings?\n\",Gunslinger,\"The filename is under the \"\"Print settings\"\" tab. Under output options, you can change the name template. You can use words like: [layer_height] to make the name dynamic.\n\nThe variable you are looking for here is: [filament_preset]\nBut the full name, with space and everything, is used.\n\nHere is a screenshot:\n\n\nHere is a link to fuller docs:\nhttps://github.com/slic3r/Slic3r/wiki/FAQ#how-can-i-specify-a-custom-filename-format-for-output-g-code-files\n\nNew version of Slic3r\n\nIt lets you edit the filename when upload it. You will see what will be upload it and give it any name. But this is a manual process. Just updated my answer for the sake of completeness.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n6879,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mark Harrison,2.8153892694839717,4.3171230629367,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Does Octoprint stop printing on Crash Detection?,\"A corner of my model curled up, causing the head to crash into it. The Prusa MK3 detected the error, printed a message to that effect, and moved the print head to the home position.\n\nI was surprised when printing immediately resumed, and of course immediately went awry as it pulled the model off the print bed and dragged it around.\n\nMy questions:\n\n\nIs it expected that printing stops when a head crash is detected?\nIf so, does Octoprint recognize this condition and stop printing?\n\n\",0scar,\"You are describing precisely how the crash detection should work on the Prusa Mk3, so it is doing exactly what it should do. If you look into this video from Jozef Prusa you will see him explaining that in case a crash is detected (steps missed are registered because the Mk3 uses trinamic stepper drivers), the print head is homed and will immediately restart printing. \n\nPlease do read this interesting post; it describes your similar problems: after detection it resumes. He noteworthy mentions that even a few lines of G-code went missing, this is probably caused by the fact that OctoPrint buffers a few commands or something that get lost because the Pruse Mk3 crash fail safe kicks in.\n\nIn effect, OctoPrint is just a simple supplier of G-code commands and does not recognize the problem to act on it and will therefore continue sending new commands after the Prusa Mk3 crash has recovered (sending ok to OctoPrint for receiving new commands) from the crash and re-homed and got the temperatures back to normal levels.\n\nAn existing plugin for OctoPrint may help you in this case. The Action Trigger Plugin is able to detect events, but have to be implemented in your firmware. E.g. the action for filament describes:\n\n\n This trigger will pause the print and home the X and Y axis, giving\n the user the opportunity to change out the filament. The print needs\n to be resumed manually through the UI.\n\n\nMaybe it can be configured to pick up the existing event and issue a pause. It could be worth looking into this.\n\n\n\nEDIT\nLooking closer to the ActionTrigger plugin I noticed that you cannot configure it and the \"\"manual\"\" is very terse. I guess this might involve some serious hacking...\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n7025,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mark Harrison,3.452496054252184,5.179631387998792,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,slic3r: Can I vary the infill percentage for different heights of my model?,\"How can I vary the infill percentage for different layer heights of my model?\n\nContext: The bottom part of my model needs about 20% infill. The geometry of the top part of the model (mostly cones of various sizes) prints well with 0% infill and is of course a lot faster to print if I can specify this.\n\",Mark Harrison,\"Let's assume the model is 75mm high; the bottom portion (which needs 20% infill) is 40mm, and the top portion (which needs 0% infill) is 35mm.\n\n\nLoad your model into Slic3r.\nBe sure your default fill is 20%.\nRight click on the model, and select Settings.\nClick \"\"Load Generic\"\".\nSelect Slab. This represents a cube which is the same X,Y dimensions of your model.\nSpecify H=35 (the height of the slab) and Initial Z=40 (where the base of slab starts).\nThis creates a new part for your object. Select it and click \"\"+\"\" to add a new setting.\nSelect Infill/Fill Density and set it to 0%.\n\n\nAs a result of this, the bottom part of your model (which is not enclosed in the slab) will print at the default fill setting of 20%, and the top part of your model (which is enclosed in the slab) will print with 0% fill.\n\nYou can verify this by slicing and looking at the preview. You will see the base with your default infill, and the top with no infill. The slic3r docs mentions several other ways to customize parameters for your model.\n\",-1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n7025,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mark Harrison,3.452496054252184,5.179631387998792,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,slic3r: Can I vary the infill percentage for different heights of my model?,\"How can I vary the infill percentage for different layer heights of my model?\n\nContext: The bottom part of my model needs about 20% infill. The geometry of the top part of the model (mostly cones of various sizes) prints well with 0% infill and is of course a lot faster to print if I can specify this.\n\",0scar,\"Your question is very similar to Different infill in the same part and Using multiple infill types within one model [duplicate]. The difference is that you specifically ask for Slic3r and a variation in layer height infill percentage.\n\n\n\nActually this answer describes using \"\"helper volumes\"\" in Ultimaker Cura to set different properties for certain parts of the model (UPDATE: that answer now includes also Slic3r instructions), but it appears that this answer is very much applicable to Slic3r also. Please read this posting. Quoting from the reference:\n\n\n Finally, I fired Slic3r up and loaded the main part, then clicked on\n Settings... and then hit Load modifier... I loaded the new volume as a\n modifier mesh and I applied 100% solid infill...\n \n\n\nSecondly, this answer where 2 different infill percentage sliced models are manually combined at a certain height may also work for you (this is a perfect valid solution for Slic3r, but requires some editing skills).\n\nBasically, although you request for a solution for a slicer other than already described in other questions, boils down to a similar answer, the only difference is the implementation in Slic3r is called differently. \n\n\n\nTo do this in Slic3r see this reference.\n\nThe blog describes the use of a simple volume (the green volume loaded from an STL file). After loading:\n\n\n Right-clicking on the main part brought up the object settings menu.\n From there, clicking \"\"Load Modifier\"\" and selecting the previously\n saved model adds it to the part as a modifier.\n \n The green \"\"+\"\" was selected and \"\"Fill Density\"\" was added to modifier\n list and set to 100%.\n\n\n\n\n\nThis shows that the functionality in Slic3r is very similar to the functionality in Ultimaker Cura.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7355,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mark Harrison,1.726248027126092,3.0484567768387603,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,How can I run two instances (or equivalent) of Slic3r on OS X?,\"I am modifying some Slic3r config parameters and comparing the results. How can I have two instances (or equivalent: I would like to see two model windows with their associated configuration screens) of Slic3r at the same time? I'm on OS X, but if there is a generic (e.g. within Slic3r) solution that will be preferrable.\n\",Greenonline,\"You could duplicate the application by clicking on the application and pressing Command (⌘) + D, and then run both - although I'm not sure if that would mess with the preferences. I haven't fully tested it, but both instances opened up and worked, seemingly ok.\n\n\n\nYou could even rename them to something other than \"\"Slic3r\"\" and \"\"Slic3r copy\"\" to remind you which application is slicing which model, for example:\n\n\n\"\"TestCube\"\" and \"\"Benchy\"\", or;\n\"\"Slic3r-TestCube\"\" and \"\"Slic3r-Benchy\"\", or whatever. \n\n\nHowever, Mark's answer seems much more elegant. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7355,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mark Harrison,1.726248027126092,3.0484567768387603,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,How can I run two instances (or equivalent) of Slic3r on OS X?,\"I am modifying some Slic3r config parameters and comparing the results. How can I have two instances (or equivalent: I would like to see two model windows with their associated configuration screens) of Slic3r at the same time? I'm on OS X, but if there is a generic (e.g. within Slic3r) solution that will be preferrable.\n\",Mark Harrison,\"From a terminal window, run the command\n\nopen -n -a slic3r\n\n\nEach time the command is executed, a new instance of Slic3r is created.\n\nAs per Carl's note, keep in mind that both instances of Slic3r will be sharing the same configuration files, so it will be safest not to save configuration changes while both are open.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8712,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mark Harrison,1.726248027126092,3.7732686984242996,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,\"How does acetone \"\"rejuvenate\"\" PEI?\",\"The Prusa3d knowledge base mentions that acetone will \"\"rejuvenate\"\" PEI in addition to cleaning oil and grease from the surface.\n\n\n About once a week, or when prints stop sticking, use ACETONE to clean the bed. It removes grease better than IPA or Windex. It also rejuvenates the print surface. However, if you use acetone every day, PEI will become brittle and start cracking.\n\n\nFrom a chemical or physical perspective, how does acetone affect the PEI surface?\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"Acetone is smelly nasty stuff. Here's a sample recommendation for PEI maintenance from one of a few (million?) 3d printing help sites. \n\n\n Use isopropyl alcohol, methyl alcohol, soap, Heptane, Hexane, or\n Naphtha. Avoid ketones (such as MEK) or strong bases (such as sodium\n hydroxide).\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n8712,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mark Harrison,1.726248027126092,3.7732686984242996,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,\"How does acetone \"\"rejuvenate\"\" PEI?\",\"The Prusa3d knowledge base mentions that acetone will \"\"rejuvenate\"\" PEI in addition to cleaning oil and grease from the surface.\n\n\n About once a week, or when prints stop sticking, use ACETONE to clean the bed. It removes grease better than IPA or Windex. It also rejuvenates the print surface. However, if you use acetone every day, PEI will become brittle and start cracking.\n\n\nFrom a chemical or physical perspective, how does acetone affect the PEI surface?\n\",anttix,\"Rejuvenate is probably a bit of an exaggerated term. The number one adhesion suppressor is grease. The stuff that comes off of the fingers used to handle the sheet. Even if you are careful and only handle the sides, the grease will be carried to the center of the plate next time its cleaned with less aggressive solvents.\n\nIsopropyl alchohol does break down grease but not to the extent that acetone does. Acetone also attacks plastic particles that accumulate on the print surface over time.\n\nPEI is resistant to a wide array of chemicals[1] including acetone but it can become brittle if exposed to it too much especially when hot so acetone is not recommended for daily cleaning. \n\n[1] Ultem Product Broshure table 4-3\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n3909,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mcccccc,-2.1782824847157594,3.619173000051646,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,0.0,How does a SolidWorks file get converted to be 3D printed?,\"I've done some research on this matter however I cannot find any clear answers. \n\nHow does a SolidWorks CAD file get 'converted' into a file format suitable for 3D printing, in detail?\n\",Diesel,\"Any and all CAD files can be converted to STL (Standard Triangle Language). In this file format, surfaces are parsed to be combinations of triangles. For example a flat rectangular surface gets represented as two triangles in the same plane. \n\nAs the complexity of the solid increases more triangles are required to adequately approximate the surface. Flat surfaced models are simpler to convert and will have smaller file sizes whereas curved solids will be more complex and larger file sizes (for the most part). The dimensions of your part do not translate to the STL file technically. The STL version of your part is based on unit vectors and a scaling factor is included in the file. So none of the vertices of the STL file are dimensioned, but the file is then scaled appropriately when opened.\n\nIf you think of something as simple as a large diameter cylinder, you would need a relatively large number of triangles to approximate the curved surface. With a low number of triangles the curved surface would come out quite blocky, however increasing the resolution and the number of triangles used the blocky surfaces begin to approximate a curved surface. In theory if you had infinite resolution your curved surface would be exactly represented. The resolution of the file is something that you can choose when you save the file in STL format. The higher the resolution the more triangles will be required and the file size will also increase. \n\nThe specific algorithm on how to complete this task will be proprietary to each CAD software, however if you're just curious on the math involved or the general process of converting them, I did a quick google search for \"\"STL format algorithm\"\" and found several useful links on the first page that could be useful. \n\nHere are a few links to a few sites with good information:\n\n\nThe TL;DR version: 15-294 Rapid Prototyping Technologies: STL Files and Slicing Software;\nA Published paper on the algorithm: A method for slicing cad models in binary stl format, and;\nA rehash of what I wrote above: STL File Format for 3D Printing – Explained in Simple Terms.\n\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n3909,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mcccccc,-2.1782824847157594,3.619173000051646,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,0.0,How does a SolidWorks file get converted to be 3D printed?,\"I've done some research on this matter however I cannot find any clear answers. \n\nHow does a SolidWorks CAD file get 'converted' into a file format suitable for 3D printing, in detail?\n\",user7844775,\"When you convert it to, let's say, a .stl (3d object file) file, I believe it converts the geometry of the parts into binary and saves the sets. These matrices can be used by the software of 3d printer in order to give the appropriate Trajectory for the extruder. And then the motion of the extruder is 'divided' amongst the available stepper motors and it generates equations of motion for the motors in electrical signals. \nThat's what I've learned so far by using a 3d printer. \n\",-2.353748300761693,0.0\n3913,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user7844775,-2.1782824847157594,3.4291679796504773,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Best way to start building a 3D printer of my own,\"I've been using a 3D printer - Makerbot Replicator 2, since almost a year now. I'm quite good at operating and solving somewhat difficult problems with it. \nHowever I'm looking forward to build a 3D printer of my own, during the Summer break of 40 days. \nWhere's the best way to look for a start (except for Instructables) and build it in my given time? \nAnd how should I proceed? \nAlso what will be its approximate cost? \n\nPS: I don't know coding but I'm a really proficient designer and a good knowledge of electronics too. \n\",Rincewind,\"Building a printer isn't that difficult due to RepRap (meant for rapid prototyping) but there are many factors that decide the price, difficulty, and abilities of a custom build.\n\nUsing a Melzi board (a glorified Arduino Mega with motor drivers) helps a great deal and Repetier firmware is built to integrate many different types of hardware so those take a lot out of the engineering part. While you might not have to learn C++ to configure the firmware, it helps a great deal. There are plenty of sites that walk you through everything.\n\nAfter that, lead screws, GT2 belts, steppers, sensors, extruder, wires and the frame can be found very reliably from dozens of sites online.\n\nCartesian style printers are much easier to build than delta type printers. There are countless numbers of custom builds that people document and put online. Check out as many as you want and draw ideas and inspiration from what they do. Listen for problems and solutions.\n\nAnd one of the most important things: there is a difference between cheap and inexpensive. Make sure you understand that. You don't want to burn your house down just to save a few pennies.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3922,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Cailloumax,2.1782824847157594,3.079570220207228,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,-1.3276579603156529,Trouble printing Poppy Robot with SpiderBot,\"For a university project, my partner and I need to print the robot Poppy. This is an open source robotic project, poppy-project.org.\n\nWe are printing it with a double extruder SpiderBot with PLA and HIPS as support material. Our principal issue is the weakness of the pieces we print.\n\nIt prevents us from removing the support material without damaging the piece. We don't have the chemicals to dissolve HIPS.\n\nHave you some advice to make the pieces stronger, or a more gentle method to remove the HIPS?\n\nThanks for the replies\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Having a bit more experience since my comment post above, I can offer up a possible solution. If your printer is able to print ABS, it works great with HIPS as support material. I've been printing boatloads of ABS models. When support is needed, the HIPS supports will bond reasonably well to the ABS, but when cooled, flick off with a sharp pointed instrument such as a razor knife point.\n\nAs an additional reference, a good bond to the print bed is required for both ABS and HIPS and if your slicer allows support density adjustment, increase the support in that manner. My slicer (Simplify3D) would print an accordian type of support unless instructed otherwise. I set up for alternating 45° patterns making a denser but also more vertically rigid structure.\n\nIf you cannot print ABS, PLA and PVA as Ogre55 suggests is about your only option. I see from the 'net that the SpiderBot Pro supports ABS, which implies the basic version might not have a heated bed.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3922,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Cailloumax,2.1782824847157594,3.079570220207228,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,-1.3276579603156529,Trouble printing Poppy Robot with SpiderBot,\"For a university project, my partner and I need to print the robot Poppy. This is an open source robotic project, poppy-project.org.\n\nWe are printing it with a double extruder SpiderBot with PLA and HIPS as support material. Our principal issue is the weakness of the pieces we print.\n\nIt prevents us from removing the support material without damaging the piece. We don't have the chemicals to dissolve HIPS.\n\nHave you some advice to make the pieces stronger, or a more gentle method to remove the HIPS?\n\nThanks for the replies\n\",Ogre55,\"Why not try using PVA(Polyvinyl alcohol) for support material.\n\nI use it for my support material with PLA, and it dissolves in water.\n\nhere is a link to some on Amazon.\nhttps://smile.amazon.com/eSUN-1-75mm-filament-natural-0-5kg/dp/B00MVIQASU/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1508539512&sr=1-3&keywords=PVA\n\",-2.0274084334862867,0.0\n3925,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BuzzKill,2.1782824847157594,5.423307498688215,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,0.7766301205685938,\"How to switch motor outputs and use E1 as X, in Marlin firmware?\",\"I broke up my electronics and now the output for X is not working. The stepper is OK. \n\nThere is any simple solution to remap the output pins? I want the E1 output to act as the X output.\n\",Kallz,\"you can find pin.h in marlin directory and in pin.h file change # define pinout of z motor and extruder motor\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3925,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BuzzKill,2.1782824847157594,5.423307498688215,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,0.7766301205685938,\"How to switch motor outputs and use E1 as X, in Marlin firmware?\",\"I broke up my electronics and now the output for X is not working. The stepper is OK. \n\nThere is any simple solution to remap the output pins? I want the E1 output to act as the X output.\n\",0scar,\"When using Marlin firmware you could easily change the pin layout of the extra extruder (E1) with the broken X stepper pins by changing the pins_RAMPS.h file.\n\nDownload the firmware and open the firmware project in Arduino IDE. Navigate to the \"\"Steppers\"\" section of the pins_RAMPS.h file and replace:\n\n#define X_STEP_PIN 54\n#define X_DIR_PIN 55\n#define X_ENABLE_PIN 38\n#define X_CS_PIN 53\n\n\nfor:\n\n#define X_STEP_PIN 36\n#define X_DIR_PIN 34\n#define X_ENABLE_PIN 30\n#define X_CS_PIN 44\n\n\nand also change:\n\n#define E1_STEP_PIN 36\n#define E1_DIR_PIN 34\n#define E1_ENABLE_PIN 30\n#define E1_CS_PIN 44\n\n\nto:\n\n#define E1_STEP_PIN 54\n#define E1_DIR_PIN 55\n#define E1_ENABLE_PIN 38\n#define E1_CS_PIN 53\n\n\nWhen the file is changed an saved, build and upload code to your board and plug the connector of the X stepper into the E1 header.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3955,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sonya,2.8153892694839717,4.397038267020464,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.8746593652159236,0.7766301205685938,Is there a way to print on a 3D printed surface?,\"I have a 3D printed object that I'd like to print on. Adhesive stickers are an option, but as the surface is rounded it's difficult to get a good film to stick well. \n\nIs there any system to print on a 3D object (e.g. ink jet). I need at least 300dpi. Black in the first instance, but color would be nice for future projects. \n\",fred_dot_u,\"Rather than post a series of links for various services and vendors, consider to use as a search term \"\"hydrographic film at home\"\" to find results to suit your purpose. The first search results I found excluded \"\"at home\"\" and indicated it was not suited for home/hobbyist use, but the modification resulted in vendors supportive of home users.\n\nIn advanced circumstances, the image printed on the film is topographically matched to the model to which it is to be applied. For home users, I suspect that is somewhat out of reach. Most of the products aimed at the home user are patterns or solid colors, although with care, one could combine films in sequential applications.\n\nEffectively, the process involves a colored film floating on a water filled container. Certain products are applied to the film and to the prepared model to ensure bonding. Additional processes are required to protect the graphic-coated model after removal from the bath/container.\n\nAs with the other responses, it's not likely one will achieve 300 dpi resolution without resorting to the topographically matched commercial methods.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3955,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sonya,2.8153892694839717,4.397038267020464,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.8746593652159236,0.7766301205685938,Is there a way to print on a 3D printed surface?,\"I have a 3D printed object that I'd like to print on. Adhesive stickers are an option, but as the surface is rounded it's difficult to get a good film to stick well. \n\nIs there any system to print on a 3D object (e.g. ink jet). I need at least 300dpi. Black in the first instance, but color would be nice for future projects. \n\",Leroy John,\"One option is to hire a painter to paint the image onto the surface.\nWith a skilled painter, you could have a very photorealistic finish. Not sure if this would cost more or less than other routes.\n\",0.0,0.0\n3961,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Holden,1.0891412423578797,4.435848040175207,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Is this what a 0.1 layer height should look like?,\"I've done 0.1 before and I think I've gotten better and more smooth results than this:\n\n\n\nI think that my printer is having some sort of problem, or the print bed it too low because this was printed at a 0.1 layer height. I think the print should look a lot more smooth than that. I'm using the Monoprice Select Mini.\n\",mbmcavoy,\"This may be an effect of the not using a \"\"Magic Number\"\" for your layer height. The Monoprice Select Mini has a z-resolution of 0.04375mm, so layer heights should be multiples of that. (See What are the “magic numbers” on a Monoprice Select Mini?)\n\nIf you slice with a layer height of 0.1mm, each layer will be a little smaller (0.0875mm) or bigger (0.13125mm) to get close the the ideal height. The extrusion won't change, causing some layers to be thin and overextruded and others to be thick and underextruded.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n3972,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,neelsg,1.726248027126092,4.445216096647318,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Bed won't switch off after Marlin firmware update,\"After I updated the firmware on my Prusa i3, the Bed won't switch off anymore. It worked perfectly before the update, but now, the moment I power up my printer, the LED on the bed turns on and it starts heating up. The manual control in Repetier Host doesn't turn if off or on and I even tried g-codes M140 S0 as well as M0, but it does not switch it off.\n\nEdit:\nI have an Arduino Mega2560 with a RAMPS shield. The Marlin firmware came pre-configured from the store I bought the kit from.\n\",John Lewin,\"It sounds like the pin configuration in the firmware you flashed doesn't match your hardware. Heaters should never be on by default and M140 S0 should always turn off current to the bed. What you describe sounds like the firmware is sending power to a pin that it believes is something other than what it is, either because the bed is on a fan pin (like D9) or because the firmware thinks D8 is something other than the heated bed. \n\nIf it worked before, your original firmware was configured to match how your board was wired, specifically which pins were mapped to what hardware. If you're confident that the new firmware pin configuration is correct, you can ignore this theory. Otherwise you should nail down which D8/D9/D10 pin maps to what hardware and resolve the mismatch.\n\nOn RAMPS, pins 8, 9 and 10 are typically used to control fans, hotends and heated beds and you define this behavior in configuration.h. If you flashed from source you should review configuration.h and ensure it matches your hardware. This likely means setting the MOTHERBOARD to the value that matches how pins 8/9/10 are wired. See this section (or something similar) in configuration.h to get started:\n\n// The following define selects which electronics board you have.\n// Please choose the name from boards.h that matches your setup\n#ifndef MOTHERBOARD\n #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB\n#endif\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n3972,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,neelsg,1.726248027126092,4.445216096647318,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Bed won't switch off after Marlin firmware update,\"After I updated the firmware on my Prusa i3, the Bed won't switch off anymore. It worked perfectly before the update, but now, the moment I power up my printer, the LED on the bed turns on and it starts heating up. The manual control in Repetier Host doesn't turn if off or on and I even tried g-codes M140 S0 as well as M0, but it does not switch it off.\n\nEdit:\nI have an Arduino Mega2560 with a RAMPS shield. The Marlin firmware came pre-configured from the store I bought the kit from.\n\",neelsg,\"This was actually a coincidental situation where I somehow damaged the RAMPS board around the same time I reloaded the firmware. Replaced the board and it works correctly now\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n3973,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,S. Lindqvist,2.528907649931287,5.654005988673035,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.8746593652159236,1.5532602411371876,Pronterface won't connect to my Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus,\"For the Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus I have to upload data to the 3D printer from a software called Arduino and then close it. Then I open Pronterface and put in the right port and baud rate that is in the Arduino files and then click \"\"connect\"\". Afterwards it says \n\nconnecting...\n\n\nand that is all it does and doesn't fully connect to the printer. I've tried changing the baud rate and port in Pronterface, Arduino and the bit rate in the Device Manager but nothing works. \n\nAny suggestions on how to fix this?\n\",Greenonline,\"Only one application can access the Arduino Mega board, via the COM port, at a time. Sometimes, the software can get confused, and keep hold of the COM port, although this is unusual. \n\nFor example, if you are connected to your board via Pronterface, and without clicking on Pronterface's Disconnect button first, you then try to upload some code to the Arduino via the Arduino IDE, the Arduino IDE will just sit there complaining that it can not connect - usually with an error, or a timeout message, like this:\n\navrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout\n\n\nSee the video tutorial, #18: Calibration, by BuildA3DPrinter. It is a long video, but extremely informative. At 2:20 he has this exact problem. In fact, throughout the video, the instructor constantly reminds the viewer to disconnect from Pronterface before attempting to upload new firmware via the Arduino IDE.\n\nNow, I know that this is the opposite of your issue, as your can not connect using Pronterface, after using the Arduino IDE, as opposed to the other way around, as shown in the video. However, the solution is most probably the same... Momentarily, disconnect the Arduino board from the USB (i.e. unplug the USB cable for a few seconds and then reconnect it). Then, without using the Arduino IDE, now try to connect Pronterface. It should now work - assuming that you have selected the correct COM port, baud rate etc.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3973,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,S. Lindqvist,2.528907649931287,5.654005988673035,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.8746593652159236,1.5532602411371876,Pronterface won't connect to my Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus,\"For the Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus I have to upload data to the 3D printer from a software called Arduino and then close it. Then I open Pronterface and put in the right port and baud rate that is in the Arduino files and then click \"\"connect\"\". Afterwards it says \n\nconnecting...\n\n\nand that is all it does and doesn't fully connect to the printer. I've tried changing the baud rate and port in Pronterface, Arduino and the bit rate in the Device Manager but nothing works. \n\nAny suggestions on how to fix this?\n\",lowboydrvr,\"I recently purchased and assembled the Anycubic Kossel Delta printer and ran into the same issues. \n\nI found that if I tried to connect with \"\"COM 1\"\" first, it would error out, then when I switched to \"\"COM 4\"\" (the correct port), it connected. Weird, I know, but it works.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3980,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Cynthia Daiz,0.0,2.9268557087492164,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Settings for Taulman 618 Nylon,\"I would like to know what are the best settings for Taulman 618 Nylon filament? In particular, the print head and print bed temperatures.\n\",Davo,\"240°C, lots of cooling. \n\nSee Material Specification Print Sheet - Taulmann 618 Nylon.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n3981,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,highfellow,3.0576060275493275,4.239314053684621,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Second layer of ASA print 'runs',\"I am using a Prusa i3 MK2 to do a print in ASA, and I'm having a problem where on the second layer the plastic 'runs' into lines across the direction the head travels. It looks like the plastic is being repelled by the previous layer and running together due to surface tension, but I may be wrong about this. \n\nI thought I had managed to solve this problem previously by reducing the temperature to 230 °C (1st layer) / 225 °C (other layers), but having changed some of the other settings this is no longer solving the problem. I have tried reducing the temperature as low as 215 °C / 210 °C, and this is still happening.\n\nHere is a photograph of the first and second layers:\n\n\n\nThe direction of head travel for the first layer was bottom left <-> top right, and for the second layer top left <-> bottom right.\n\nThe settings were based on the standard Prusa i3 MK2 Slic3r settings bundle for ABS filament with a 0.05 mm layer height, modified as follows:\n\n\nprint temperature reduced to 230 °C / 225 °C\nfan speed increased slightly to 15 % as on 10 % the fan doesn't start.\nlayer height for first 14 layers: 0.2 mm\nextrusion widths set to Slic3r defaults\nvarious print speeds reduced, mainly the travel speed.\nnumber of top and bottom layers reduced because of the increased layer height.\n\n\nThe reason for increasing the layer height for the first 14 layers is that the print is a piece of mixed raised text and braille lettering intended to be inset into a larger sign. I want fine detail for the top layers with the lettering, but high speed for the lower layers that are more structural. I am inserting an M600 change filament manually into the G-Code file at the point where the lettering starts. I have so far managed to produce one successful print - see the image below. The reason I am still playing with the settings is that the good print wasn't in high enough quality, and there was some slight stringing between letters.\n\n\n\nThe good print was based on a 0.1 mm layer height for the lettering, modified to 0.15 mm for the lower layers, with a temperature of 230 °C / 225 °C.\n\",highfellow,\"I've now worked out the reason for the plastic 'running' on the second layer. It is because of the way that I prepared the G-Code file, using the option in Slic3r which lets you alter the layer height for certain layers in the print. The problem with this appears to be that there are other settings which are not altered at the same time for the thicker layers. So the first half of the file ends up printed using the settings that work for a 0.05 mm layer height, but with the layer height set to 0.2 mm.\n\nI have prepared a new file by rendering two G-Code files, one using the Prusa settings for a 0.2 mm layer height, and the other using a 0.05 mm layer height. I then merged these manually by looking for the layer change at 2.8 mm in both files and appending the end of the 0.05 mm file to the start of the 0.2 mm file. (I found the layer changes by using Slic3r's custom G-Code option, and adding custom comments into the G-Code which included the layer number and height on every layer change). Then I inserted an M600 'Change filament' instruction at a height of 3.05 mm, where the writing begins.\n\nWhen I print this file, the problem with the plastic running together on the second layer disappears.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n3983,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ecnerwal,2.528907649931287,5.396029787898949,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Scaling/size issues in delta printers,\"So here How to achieve dimensional accuracy of printed parts the Cartesian printer approach to accurate sizing is covered. And deltas get a footnote of being a whole other ball of wax - so let's look at that wax ball.\n\nI'm currently resurrecting, or erecting, depending how one looks at it, a poorly documented Chinese printer (purchased in China by a Chinese student and abandoned in the US after graduation) that appears to be based off a Rostock mini. Z 204mm, X Y 100mm radius or 200 mm diameter, Bowden tube.\n\n\n\nIt appears to be equipped with an absurdly small nozzle (lacking a good way to check that precisely yet, feeding suggests possibly 0.1mm, and no, the vertical resolution is not nearly enough to make that in any way reasonable), which is obviously fixable if the rest of it can be made to work. \n\nYesterday we got it to the point of (very tediously with tiny nozzle) spitting out a test cube, which was 17 by 17 by 20 mm - undersized in XY, accurate in Z. The last bit makes me pretty sure the steps/mm are right on the steppers, but obviously something is off in the geometry (measured, no documentation for this exact printer can be found, at least by non-Chinese-speaking/reading me - it being utterly un-branded does not help.)\n\nA second test cube was produced with scaling set to 20/17 (1.176) in the XY directions, and that seems to be accurate at least to non-precision measurements. I'm now contemplating \"\"what likely needs tweaked, and in what direction\"\" for the delta geometry - I'd say the rod eye-to-eye measurement (85mm, IIRC) is fairly decent, the offset from rod mount at carriage to rod center is not too terrible, and I have low confidence in the rod mount at printhead to nozzle - so that's the one I suspect most.\n\ntl, dr:But I lack an intuitive understanding of how each of those parameters (offset at carriage, offset at printhead, and arm length) would affect the printed size. I'll come back and edit in what we currently think each is. Rather than depending on scaling in the slicer I'd like to seek the \"\"right numbers\"\" but when at the limits of available measurement precision, having an idea how and in what direction incorrect offsets or arm length affect the print size would be good, rather than just blindly changing numbers and hoping.\n\nI also have some other \"\"print quality\"\" issues and a bed leveling issue which will be other questions when I can sort that out.\n\",tjb1,\"Issues in X-Y size on a Delta are usually the result of an incorrect diagonal rod value in the firmware. This should be easy to fix assuming the rods were built together. \n\nThe formula for this is (20 in this case is your test print X-Y):\n\nNew DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD = 20 / measured_length * Original DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD\n\nI found this information (here), this site also has more information on setting the radius and other delta specific issues.\n\nIf you encounter issues with the size of the rods you should build new ones using a jig. There are several (here's one) I found on Thingiverse but they require printed parts and they do all the rods horizontally which I think would be tough to keep equal. I would use something similar to this picture but with a longer rod/bolt so you can fit all rods on the same time. When I did my Kossel Mini I used a piece of the extrusion with bolts coming off of it to keep the rods consistent.\n\n\n\nFor the other issues you mention you should open another question specific to each issue.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n3996,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ecnerwal,1.726248027126092,4.65995591177336,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Delta printer not responding to changes in DELTA_RADIUS,\"As mentioned in my previous question, I have some bed-levelling issues with my printer. Following the link in @tjb1's answer I figured they were all about to be solved - just follow the steps and bim, bam, flat printing aligned with the plane of the bed. I was wrong. Firmware is Marlin 1.1.0-RC8\n\nFrom minow.blogspot.com:\n\n\n For Marlin in Marlin.ino.Marlin.pde\n \n DELTA_RADIUS is DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET - DELTA_EFFECTOR_OFFSET\n -DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET\n To correct the problem, the best course is to change one of the variables set earlier to force the value of DELTA_RADIUS to\n increase(to lower the extruder nozzle) or to decrease (to raise the\n nozzle).\n \n To lower the extruder nozzle increase DELTA_RADIUS by increasing\n DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET(Marlin) or PRINTER_RADIUS(Repetier).\n \n To raise the extruder nozzle, decrease DELTA_RADIUS by decreasing \n DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET(Marlin) or PRINTER_RADIUS(Repetier). For your\n first cycle, if you are above the build surface, increase DELTA_RADIUS\n by (about) the same amount. If the extruder nozzle hits the build\n surface, decrease DELTA_RADIUS. \n \n Next, repeat the ABC tower calibration process. Changing the\n DELTA_RADIUS changes the tower calibrations, so you must cycle through\n the process of adjusting the ABC buttons/scripts again. And when the\n ABC towers are set, test the center D button/script.\n \n You may have to repeat this a few times with smaller changes to\n DELTA_RADIUS, but eventually, the drag on a piece of paper should be\n the same at all four locations. Now the printer knows how to print\n flat at a given Z height.\n\n\nSo I did that. It's about 5-6mm high in the center of the bed. On point in front of the 3 towers. And it stays pretty much there (less than one 'precision' business card movement, if any) when DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET is increased, increased more, or decreased, for that matter - we started wondering if there was a sign error issue and tried the other way.\n\nThere is mention on the page of \"\"turning off EEPROM\"\" lest values be over-ridden by those in EEPROM, but the text appears to suggest that it's a Repetier-firmware-specific problem. So I was not expecting to have it in Marlin. Does it also apply to Marlin, or:\n\nTL;DR mode: why would changes that should affect the \"\"DELTA_RADIUS\"\" to get the printer on plane with the bed be ineffective?\n\n]3\n\",Ecnerwal,\"OK, so a little more poking around finds that it does seem to be loading values from EEPROM and ignoring the configuration files. So that's not Repetier-firmware-specific.\n\n...and I found M665 in G-code which lets me just set a value for it, then M500 saves it to said EEPROM. And it's making a difference (so much of one that I may need to reset Zmax before I can actually adjust it all out as the endpoints on the bed are now off, but they are all 4 much closer to being off by the same amount!)\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n3986,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jonathan Bayer,1.726248027126092,4.650064786307098,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,\"P3Steel v4 w/ 20x30 cm bed, or 2.5.1 w/ 20x20\",\"I'm building a new printer after having an Anet A8 for about two months and getting a feel for what I want. I'm planning to buy a P3Steel frame; but can't decide which version to get. \n\nThere are one or two prints I would like to make that are larger than 20 cm in length; but I could always do these in multiple pieces. \n\nWhat I'm wondering is how serious are the trade-offs I would be making for a larger bed? I would think I would need thicker linear rods for the 510 mm length y-axis; and the bed would also have a large amount of inertia so that could slow down printing. Does anyone have any experience with this size bed in a moving y-carriage scenario? Also how thick of rods should I get? Orballo printing is saying 8 mm is fine but the research I've done implies that you shouldn't really go over 200-250 mm unsupported for that width. \n\",Greenonline,\"Go for the P3Steel v4 (20x30). The extra print area is worth it. There is a Polish supplier, Printo3D, on eBay that has the cheapest frame, and parts - cheaper than the Spanish supplier. That is where I got mine from. See Frame Prusa I3 P3Steel v 4.0, 300mm x 200 mm, which costs around £80.\n\nThis kit uses 10 mm smooth rods for the Y axis:\n\n\n Smooth stainless steel rods:\n \n \n 2x Ø8x385 mm for X-Axis\n 2x Ø8x320 mm for Z-Axis\n 2x Ø10x520 mm for Y-Axis \n \n \n Threaded stainless steel rods:\n \n \n 2x M5x300 mm\n \n\n\nWith respect to the Y-axis carriage, the steel carriage does add a lot of weight/inertia, you are correct. This may or may not be an issue, depending on your steppers motors that you choose1, and their torque. That said, the 3 mm steel print bed/Y-axis carriage, is ridiculously heavy, and it would be most wise to substitute it for an aluminium, plywood, or some other lightweight solution. \n\nApart from that the 3 mm steel frame is fine and as solid as a rock. There are a number of aluminium 20x30 print beds/Y-axis carriages available on eBay and Amazon. A thorough search should reveal a few. There are also composite Y-axis carriages, I found a supplier in the Ukraine, tehnologika_net, who, last year, had a number of different types at a reasonable cost - in fact they were the cheapest that I found.\n\nAs an aside, I built mine sourcing all of the parts separately. It was a bit of a task, but an educative one. The process certainly made me understand the ins and outs a lot better than purchasing a ready built, or complete kit, 3D printer.\n\nI have written up some blogs regarding the kit that I purchased, see P3Steel from Poland – A tale of despair, dismay and woe. Ignore the depressing title, it really isn't that bad.\n\nSee also Heatbeds. At the bottom there are some links to various alternative Y-axis carriages. However, some of the links/items may no longer be available.\n\nYou may also find this question of mine useful, Z axis top brackets, of P3Steel, differ between v1.x/2.x and v4.\n\n\n\nThere are a number of modifications to the standard P3Steel, that may well be worth considering. In particular, you should note the Toolsen Edition MK2, see P3steel toolson edition MK2 (in German), and P3steel - toolson edition. I have written about these, and more, see P3Steel version 4 modifications. In summary, these are:\n\n\nBowden extruders\nEndstops\nEndstops by Toolsen\nOptical Endstops by Toolsen\nIdlers by Toolsen\nExtruder by NWRepRap\nLead screws\nAluminium/Composite Y-axis carriage\n\n\n\n\n1 I got the Rattm 17HS8401 steppers. See RepRapWiki - Nema17. The recommended steppers are high torque:\n\n\nKysan 1124090/42BYGH4803;\nRattm 17HS8401, and;\nWantai 42BYGHW609\n\n\n\n However, motors close to NEMA 17 size, with approximately the\n following specifications, can also work:\n \n \n 1.5A to 1.8A current per phase\n 1-4 volts\n 3 to 8 mH inductance per phase\n 44 N·cm (62oz·in, 4.5kg·cm) or more holding torque\n 1.8 or 0.9 degrees per step (200/400 steps/rev respectively)\n \n\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n3994,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Vosem Media,1.726248027126092,4.4368952903932035,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.0718911890698015,My Anet A8 prints have been looking squished,\"I have recently purchased an Anet A8 but have been wondering why the prints look squished and have tiny balls on them. \n\nI am using 1.75 mm cheap PLA bought from eBay and have also had problems of filament oozing out of the print block. \n\n]1\n\",Mark Walker,\"It could be that cheap filament has inconsistent diameter, or your calibration is over extruding, or you have something loose that needs to be tight. It's hard for me to tell precisely from just these images. In your shoes, I would print 20mm x 20mm x 10mm, 100% infill boxes until I got it dialed in so that it is square, fully filled in, but nice and flat.\n\nIf they're coming out square and staying stuck to the build plate properly, but are bumpy and overfilled, then you're over extruding and you'll want to either recalibrate e-steps or if they're correct, adjust your flow rate in the slicer (down).\n\nIf they aren't square then you need to square up your frame and tighten it and the belts.\n\nEtc.\n\nBut my first guess is that you're extruding too much plastic since I'll bet they were flatter when they were still on the build plate, yes?\n\nOn the question of ooze: you'll always get some ooze. Molten plastic and gravity means some will ooze out pretty much no matter what. What you need to worry about is when this results in stringing or unwanted lines on the surface of the print. These things you address with retraction (which reduces the pressure on the nozzle during travel moves, but can't stop gravity) and for the surface problem various travel, z-hop and combing strategies depending on your slicer.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n3994,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Vosem Media,1.726248027126092,4.4368952903932035,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.0718911890698015,My Anet A8 prints have been looking squished,\"I have recently purchased an Anet A8 but have been wondering why the prints look squished and have tiny balls on them. \n\nI am using 1.75 mm cheap PLA bought from eBay and have also had problems of filament oozing out of the print block. \n\n]1\n\",user7125,\"First, I would check for bed adhesion issues. I would then check the hot-end, when it is warmed up, for any loose parts. I have fixed such issues with a piece of PTFE tape. \n\nI would also check the filament cooler parts, or proximity sensor (if you have one), for possible drag on the printed sections during printing.\n\",0.0,0.0\n4026,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Vosem Media,2.528907649931287,5.181749113929697,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,How can I insulate my thermistor?,\"I have had many problems with my heat shrink for the thermostat on my Anet A8 melting from the heat block. \n\nIs there a way I can insulate my wires from heat but still have enough room to put the thermistor into the block?\n\",Greenonline,\"For an illustration of how to employ the Kapton tape, that is mentioned in the answers from Harvey Lim and Howler, watch How to build a RepRap Prusa i3 (Assembly 7) at 21:30:\n\n\n\nFrom 15:10 the heater and thermistor is connected up, you may find this also useful. Note that, at 20:45, the heatshrink is only used over the soldered connection, and not all the way up to the heatblock:\n\n \n\nAlso, more pertinent to your printer, from Anet A8 Review – Best cheap 3D Printer?, see that the thermistor wires are also wrapped in Kapton tape in this photo:\n\n\n\nNote that the Kapton tape is wrapped around the wires, almost right up to the thermistor, and will be touching the heating block, when the thermistor is inserted into the hole - there is no problem of it melting, due to its high melting point.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4026,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Vosem Media,2.528907649931287,5.181749113929697,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,How can I insulate my thermistor?,\"I have had many problems with my heat shrink for the thermostat on my Anet A8 melting from the heat block. \n\nIs there a way I can insulate my wires from heat but still have enough room to put the thermistor into the block?\n\",Howler,\"You can use kapton tape, small PTFE tube, or silicone tape. I use PTFE on my delta printer (I do have a silicone tape wrapped around my heat block, but that's to help with keeping the heat in the block, not for eletrical insulation (although it would work for that)). These will all handle the temperatures of your heat block fairly well.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n4832,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Vosem Media,1.726248027126092,4.043361299226703,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,My Anet A8's filament isn't extruding properly,\"So after a lot of work I finally got my Anet A8 printing but then disaster struck. It has stopped working again but with a new problem. The first few strokes of printing are fine but then it goes really stringy and the lines are very very thin so the result is a very stringy mess with holes and gaps everywhere. I am also using PLA from RS and my G-code and some images are below:\n\n\n\nG-code: https://www.mediafire.com/file/p4odlic1372q78z/xyzCalibration_cube.gcode\n\",joebrad27 ,\"The most likely problem is that you have a jammed nozzle. To fix this heat the hot end up to about 140°C then insert some PLA filament push it through and then pull it out forcefully. That should solve your problem.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4014,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SusanW,2.1782824847157594,4.668215097829296,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,What does Marlin's G30 code do?,\"I'm using Marlin 1.1.0RC8 to control an MPCNC, using a RAMPS1.4. We've just added a touch-plate to do Z-probing, which works nicely for a single probe (I just want calibrated height for variant bit-lengths, not bed-leveling, but I think it amounts to the same thing). I've set it up in Marlin as FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE, which seems closest. \n\nI can make it do a G38.2 Z-50, G92 Z12.6 (which sets Z to the height of the touch-plate, 12.6mm), which is ok to be going on with, but it seems I'm having to hard-code the Z offset, which I'm sure should really be set by eg Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER or M851.\n\nMy feeling was that I should be able to invoke a G-code G30, and it would do a nice fast-slow double tap, do the equivalent of a G92 Z+zzz to set that height and then withdraw to a safe height. And after a bit of config, it does exactly that...\n\n... except it doesn't do anything with the height that it measured! Seems odd. The G30 code seems to be an elaborate way to move the head up by the clearance amount, via a touch-plate (with the added excitement of being able to crash the bed if anything goes wrong)! What's the point?\n\nHave I misunderstood what G30 is meant to do? I've read the docs here, and traced through Marlin_main.cpp and there really is no \"\"outcome\"\". Unless I've missed something?\n\",markshancock,\"I believe G30 is a carry-over from CNC (G-code originated for CNC not printers)\nI believe it is for going to a secondary reference (home) position and includes an optional by-way-of address that can be included in the command.\n\nLooking at Marlin 1.1.0-1 (latest release), it seems to do what you said:\n\n\nMove to the requested position (if selected in command, else N/C)\nDeploy probe\nGo home\nStowe probe\nReport the requested position and probed Z position\nReport the current position (home?)\n\n\nIt appears that for Marlin, there is only one reference address (home); so, it would seem a G30 would be the same as a G28 (go to primary reference); but, not so.\n\nIt looks like G28 is a home of a different color. It looks like it homes the axis one-at-a-time and does not support a by-way-of location. Note that you can select which axis to home by adding the letters 'X' 'Y' and/or 'Z' to the command.\n\nI am not sure what benefit this command has for a 3D Printer other than allowing you to alter the printer's path to home.\n\nNote: Unfortunately I do not have Marlin code up and running on my printer now so I cannot confirm what I am seeing in the code.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n4014,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SusanW,2.1782824847157594,4.668215097829296,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,What does Marlin's G30 code do?,\"I'm using Marlin 1.1.0RC8 to control an MPCNC, using a RAMPS1.4. We've just added a touch-plate to do Z-probing, which works nicely for a single probe (I just want calibrated height for variant bit-lengths, not bed-leveling, but I think it amounts to the same thing). I've set it up in Marlin as FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE, which seems closest. \n\nI can make it do a G38.2 Z-50, G92 Z12.6 (which sets Z to the height of the touch-plate, 12.6mm), which is ok to be going on with, but it seems I'm having to hard-code the Z offset, which I'm sure should really be set by eg Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER or M851.\n\nMy feeling was that I should be able to invoke a G-code G30, and it would do a nice fast-slow double tap, do the equivalent of a G92 Z+zzz to set that height and then withdraw to a safe height. And after a bit of config, it does exactly that...\n\n... except it doesn't do anything with the height that it measured! Seems odd. The G30 code seems to be an elaborate way to move the head up by the clearance amount, via a touch-plate (with the added excitement of being able to crash the bed if anything goes wrong)! What's the point?\n\nHave I misunderstood what G30 is meant to do? I've read the docs here, and traced through Marlin_main.cpp and there really is no \"\"outcome\"\". Unless I've missed something?\n\",DangV,\"I’ve recently had a need to use Z-probe touch \nplate on my MPCNC + Ramps 1.4 + Marlin 1.1.5 setup.\n\nThought I’d share what ended up working for me.\n\nIn Marlin Configuration.h, I made the changes to enable Z-probe:\n\n#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG\n#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true\n#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true\n#define FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE\n#define PROBE_DOUBLE_TOUCH\n#define Z_MIN_POS -100\n\n\nHowever, the following might be the key to your issue.\nG30 did not do anything for me as well, until I changed \nthese values to 0. The G30 now lowers Z until the Z probe \nis triggered. I needed to send a G92 to set the new Z value.\nWorks like a champ!\n\n#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0\n#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0\n\n\nIn case you’re interested, in ultralcd.cpp under \nlcd_prepare_menu(), I added the a menu item to perform \nthe probe. This way I don’t need a computer to setup \nthe machine and launch a gcode file from the sd card. \n\n #if HAS_BED_PROBE\n MENU_ITEM(gcode, MSG_PROBE_Z, PSTR(\"\"G30\\nG92 Z19.05\"\"));\n #endif\n\n\nHope this is helpful for you, even after a couple years late.\n\",0.0,0.0\n4018,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Peter,1.726248027126092,5.449539528654376,0.0,5.199501240805782,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,Filament lifts from the hot bed while printing,\"I have a Tevo Tarantula 3D printer.\n\nI'm trying to print a calibration cube. \n\nThe slicer is Cura and is set for a 1.75 mm filament extruded by a nozzle of 0.4 mm, with a heat bed temperature of 60°C and extruder 200°C. \n\nAs seen in the image I stopped the printer after a minute, when I noticed that the filament wasn't sticking to the hotbed. \n\n\n\nI've also made other tests, but the result is the same - the upper right part of the print lifts and touches the moving nozzle. \n\nHow could I resolve this? Any advice? \n\",Greenonline,\"Check the following:\n\n\nIs the print bed clean? On glass, you can use a few squirts of window cleaner.\nIs the print bed actually reaching the correct temperature? \nHave you manually calibrated the printer (at both the center and the edges), such that you can just about get a sheet of paper between the print bed and the hotend nozzle, at z = 0? This last check ensures that the first printed layer of extruded filament is actually touching and \"\"presses on\"\" to the print bed. See the video #18:Calibration for a great explanation on the use of the paper. Whilst this video is for a Delta printer, it clearly demonstrates the height that the zeroed print head should be at, and how to check using a sheet paper.\nMaybe the filament, for the first few layers, should be heated at a high temperature, than the rest of the print, to ensure adhesion.\n\n\nIf all of the above are checked and OK, then (as electrophile points out in their answer) try making the print head more grippy. This can be achieved by simply adding a thin coating to the glass with one of the following:\n\n\nWiping the glass with a glue stick or wood glue\nUsing hairspray\n\n\nBoth use PVA as an adhesive/stiffener.\n\nOr by adding an additional print surface, such as:\n\n\nUsing blue painters tape\nUsing PEI tape\nUsing Kapton tape\nUsing BuildTak\n\n\nIf adding tape, then the printer may require a small re-calibration, due to the thickness of the tape adding a few microns to the print bed height. This can be done in the firmware.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4018,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Peter,1.726248027126092,5.449539528654376,0.0,5.199501240805782,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,Filament lifts from the hot bed while printing,\"I have a Tevo Tarantula 3D printer.\n\nI'm trying to print a calibration cube. \n\nThe slicer is Cura and is set for a 1.75 mm filament extruded by a nozzle of 0.4 mm, with a heat bed temperature of 60°C and extruder 200°C. \n\nAs seen in the image I stopped the printer after a minute, when I noticed that the filament wasn't sticking to the hotbed. \n\n\n\nI've also made other tests, but the result is the same - the upper right part of the print lifts and touches the moving nozzle. \n\nHow could I resolve this? Any advice? \n\",Kallz,\"material sticking problem can be due to following reason:\n\n\nbed level\nbed temperature\nz motion calibration (ex if not calibrated layer height is 0.2 and z move 0.4 then material cant stick on bed)\nbed surface (for sticking first layer on bed what you use)\n\n\nremove all above reason step by step \n\n\nfirst confirm bed level\nbed temperature according to material (pla - 70 , abs - 100 )\n\n\nall above option are good but warpping chance are higher\nfor last bed surface you have following option to use \n\n\nuse paper tape \nuse Kapton tape\nglue stick\nuse paste (accetone + abs) abs melt into accetone and it become like cream and you can apply on bed after bed heating \n\n\nif you are using last option then just confirm bed level again before start print\n\",0.0,0.0\n4022,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pablo,1.726248027126092,4.084851449618667,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Is there a G-code to get power supply state?,\"I'm using M80 and M81 G-codes to power on/off power supply. \n\nIs there a G-code to know the actual state of the power supply?\n\",Davo,\"I don't see one at http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code so it's probably safest to set the power supply to the state you want.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4022,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pablo,1.726248027126092,4.084851449618667,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Is there a G-code to get power supply state?,\"I'm using M80 and M81 G-codes to power on/off power supply. \n\nIs there a G-code to know the actual state of the power supply?\n\",Pablo,\"Thanks! I confirmed that there isn't such a G-code.\nI sent a pull request to make this posible:\nhttps://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/pull/6671\n\nNow, \"\"M80 S\"\" reports the current state of the power supply.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4909,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pablo,1.0891412423578797,3.802970230153259,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Is Marlin capable to work with binary gcode?,\"I want to use a binary protocol like repetier. Can Marlin work with this?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"No. Marlin only supports ASCII G-code, and does not (currently) support binary format. According to the List of Firmware, Repetier is the only firmware that supports binary G-code. Moreover, verifying with Marlin's source code, shows that the G-code parser can only handle traditional G-code.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4042,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,theguy0,1.0891412423578797,3.469045931690484,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,\"Choosing the most high quality, reliable 3D printer\",\"I work in a biological laboratory where we have been using the FABtotum personal fabricator for several months now. The machine is good, however not flawless, and has set us back from doing experiments.\n\nI have overcome many common 3D printing issues, which I find necessary to do when becoming proficient in this technique. However the printer has also had its own personal mechanical and software issues.\n\nOur lab is seeking a printer that is more reliable, can produce parts relatively quick, good resolution, and it is nice if it has multiple modes (i.e FDM, SLA, and even 3D scanning is nice). This is what we figured we were getting with the FABtotum, but as I mentioned it has produced setbacks.\n\nNow I would love to tinker with the printer and modify it to my needs, but unfortunately our lab is strapped for time, however we have funding for a higher quality printer if there is one.\n\nCan you anyone recommend a printer fitting these needs in these budget categories?:\n\n\n3000 USD\n5000 USD\n8000 USD or more\n\n\nI know price doesn't equate quality, but I am saying that we are willing to pay more if that is where the quality lies.\n\nFor example, I have come across the Form 2, Ultimaker, and BCN3D sigma printers which seem quite nice. Any opinions are very appreciated.\n\",markshancock,\"At work we have a Stratasys Polyjet. It prints using UV cured gel; so, it is kind of a cross between FDM and SLA. I have not used it personally, it is mostly used byt the ME group. The parts I have seen that it produces are VERY good and it support different materials and even multiple materials. They have a lot of different product levels so they can support different price points. The only complaint I have heard is the material cost.\n\nIt can print some amazing stuff\n\nHere is a nice video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HMMJnn_gHWw\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4042,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,theguy0,1.0891412423578797,3.469045931690484,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,\"Choosing the most high quality, reliable 3D printer\",\"I work in a biological laboratory where we have been using the FABtotum personal fabricator for several months now. The machine is good, however not flawless, and has set us back from doing experiments.\n\nI have overcome many common 3D printing issues, which I find necessary to do when becoming proficient in this technique. However the printer has also had its own personal mechanical and software issues.\n\nOur lab is seeking a printer that is more reliable, can produce parts relatively quick, good resolution, and it is nice if it has multiple modes (i.e FDM, SLA, and even 3D scanning is nice). This is what we figured we were getting with the FABtotum, but as I mentioned it has produced setbacks.\n\nNow I would love to tinker with the printer and modify it to my needs, but unfortunately our lab is strapped for time, however we have funding for a higher quality printer if there is one.\n\nCan you anyone recommend a printer fitting these needs in these budget categories?:\n\n\n3000 USD\n5000 USD\n8000 USD or more\n\n\nI know price doesn't equate quality, but I am saying that we are willing to pay more if that is where the quality lies.\n\nFor example, I have come across the Form 2, Ultimaker, and BCN3D sigma printers which seem quite nice. Any opinions are very appreciated.\n\",Brad,\"I have only tried 2 different printers. I started with an Up plus printer and it was good to get started. After a few years you really want more control. I did a lot of research and ended up buying the Extrabot. It is based on the ultimaker however the guy that puts them together upgrades the motors and a few other parts to really make them work with multiple filament.\n\nYou have control over all the settings so using exotic filaments is a viable option.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4048,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Food24,2.528907649931287,4.291725793059473,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Regarding the E-step in Cura,\"I'm using a Delta Wasp 2040 printer equipped with a clay extruder. I'm using Marlin firmware. \n\nI'm trying to print food (vegetable creams) not PLA filament, but my question is about the setting of some of the parameters. \n\nAs reported in Marlin, the default values for X, Y, Z, E axes are:\n\n* D e f a u l t A x i s S t e p s P e r U n i t ( s t e p s / m m ) * O v e r r i d e w i t h M 9 2 * X , Y , Z , E 0 [ , E 1 [ , E 2 [ , E 3 ] ] ] * /\n\n#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 4000, 500 }\n\n\nMy questions are below:\n\n\nThe value 500 is intended as mm/min. If so, the actual value should be 8.33 step/mm of filament in a time of 1 s. Is this correct?\nIt is not clear, in my mind, the E-step that I can change in Cura. This is what I believe:\n\n\nIf I leave in Cura, an E-step=0, then this means that I'm using the default value (500)?\nWhat happens if I change the E-step value in Cura for instance at +0400? Is it changed from 500 to 400 mm/min, or the value on Cura is intended as a percentage of the default value?\n\n\n\nCan you explain to me exactly how the E-step changes when modifying its value in Cura. \n\",Ecnerwal,\"I can only weigh in on the Marlin side of your question - \"\"The value 500 is intended as mm/min\"\" - uh, no, AFAIK it's steps per mm, just like it says - i.e. with filament, 500 steps per mm of filament fed. Other than not allowing the feedrate parameter to go so high that steps are skipped (which is a different limit) it's time-independent. I suppose with an extruder it would be mm of piston movement, but I don't have an extruder.\n\nIn my case, an actual value is closer to 250, and I typically check the calibration with 50 or 100 mm of filament feed so I can make a decent measurement.\n\nI also wonder if your firmware knows it's running on a delta, since mine reports \"\"A, B, C\"\" rather than XYZ and all three towers are the same steps/mm - the \"\"default values\"\" you are looking at might apply to a typical cartesian printer where the Z axis is threaded while the X & Y are toothed belts. \n\nAssuming it runs correctly you might be seeing irrelevant \"\"default values\"\" and having correct values loaded from EEPROM when the system starts (look at the log window when the control system connects to the printer.)\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4066,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Food24,1.0891412423578797,4.538795342543896,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Estimating printing time from Cura,\"I know that the actual printing time is longer than the time estimated by Cura, due to acceleration and jerk factor.\n\nHowever, I have printed a small pyramid for which Cura estimates 4.0 minutes, while the measured printing time is 2 minutes and 40 seconds. \nWhat reasons could produce this difference?\n\nFor clarity, I'm using a Delta Wasp 20 40 equipped with a clay extruder for which parameters such as E-step (for E axis) are unpredictable since I have no filament.\n\",Mark Walker,\"As you note, the estimates are usually optimistic because they're calculated without knowing the printer's actual acceleration as well as communication overhead time losses, etc. However, many estimation algorithms put in a bit of a fudge factor to approximate a typical printer or to approximate startup time. I think in this case, you're just on the wrong side of the fudge factor.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4066,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Food24,1.0891412423578797,4.538795342543896,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Estimating printing time from Cura,\"I know that the actual printing time is longer than the time estimated by Cura, due to acceleration and jerk factor.\n\nHowever, I have printed a small pyramid for which Cura estimates 4.0 minutes, while the measured printing time is 2 minutes and 40 seconds. \nWhat reasons could produce this difference?\n\nFor clarity, I'm using a Delta Wasp 20 40 equipped with a clay extruder for which parameters such as E-step (for E axis) are unpredictable since I have no filament.\n\",Tim Kuipers,\"If you properly define your own machine with a delta_wasp.def.json file you can fill in the acceleration and jerk settings of your printer, so that Cura will use the correct values for print time estimation.\n\nFor example, take a look at how the Ultimaker 2 is defined.\n\nExposing these settings to the Custom FDM Printer wizard hasn't been implemented (yet).\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4049,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,P...,3.9045305118418514,6.256551447585703,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,2.9505769891325135,Uses for PLA scraps,\"I recently got a 3D printer and have been experimenting with it a lot, resulting in a lot of failed prints (as well as successes, fortunately).\n\nI'd like to, if possible, find a way to reuse the material from these failed prints. I am thinking about two methods:\n\n\nThe obvious thing to do with the material is to chuck it in an old toaster oven and reuse it for injection molding. Is this something that is reasonably easy to do? If so, what temperature would be reasonable to use? What materials would be good to use for the mold? (off the top of my head, silicone or printed ABS with some kind of sealant seem the most promising)\nAre there other ways to easily reuse the material? I've noticed that when PLA is heated to somewhere around 50-60 degrees C (120-150 F) it becomes somewhat soft and malleable. Does anyone have experience molding hot PLA?\n\n\nEDIT:\n\nTo be clear, I'm specifically asking about ways to reuse scrap PLA material, not just leftover filament, and not ways to turn it back into filament or to just recycle it. I'm particularly interested in the viability of the two methods I suggested, and if anyone has experience (positive or negative) with either I'd like to hear about it.\n\",markshancock,\"Here is a great article on the subject, How to make your own filament by recycling old 3D prints | Part 1.\n\nAt $20/kg for new material, it is going to be hard for recycling to break even; but, if the cost is not your concern, there are some options.\n\nHere is another creative option that I just saw... Cue amazing electric guitar riff:\n\n\n\n\nGuitar Picks (and jewelry)\n\n\nHere is the video: Failed Print Recycling Revisited // Guitar Picks, Earrings, and More.\n\",3.0411126502294303,0.0\n4049,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,P...,3.9045305118418514,6.256551447585703,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,2.9505769891325135,Uses for PLA scraps,\"I recently got a 3D printer and have been experimenting with it a lot, resulting in a lot of failed prints (as well as successes, fortunately).\n\nI'd like to, if possible, find a way to reuse the material from these failed prints. I am thinking about two methods:\n\n\nThe obvious thing to do with the material is to chuck it in an old toaster oven and reuse it for injection molding. Is this something that is reasonably easy to do? If so, what temperature would be reasonable to use? What materials would be good to use for the mold? (off the top of my head, silicone or printed ABS with some kind of sealant seem the most promising)\nAre there other ways to easily reuse the material? I've noticed that when PLA is heated to somewhere around 50-60 degrees C (120-150 F) it becomes somewhat soft and malleable. Does anyone have experience molding hot PLA?\n\n\nEDIT:\n\nTo be clear, I'm specifically asking about ways to reuse scrap PLA material, not just leftover filament, and not ways to turn it back into filament or to just recycle it. I'm particularly interested in the viability of the two methods I suggested, and if anyone has experience (positive or negative) with either I'd like to hear about it.\n\",Hugh,\"https://preciousplastic.com/ Is a fantastic project that promotes plastic recycling into useful objects. They offer free blueprints, videos on how to build the recycling equipment, and offer suggestions on what to make of your recycled goods.\n\nPersonally, I am looking into making garden bricks or paver stones. I have not found the ideal temperatures or heating methods just yet. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4051,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Obliterax Scourge of Nations,2.528907649931287,3.9080899584101134,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Parts of my (apparently manifold) model aren't appearing in my Slic3r preview,\"I have an STL file that, when I load it in Slic3r, looks fine, but somewhere in the actual slicing process, something goes wrong and parts of the model disappear.\n\n\n\nThat's the render on the left, and the slicing preview on the right. That big hole is the most obvious fault, but there are more little notches elsewhere on the model; you can see a couple on the bottom edge there. It looks like the program is ignoring some of the model's faces entirely. What's all that about?\n\nThe model passes every manifoldiness test I've thrown at it: Slic3r's, Meshmixer's, Blender's, and a couple of online services I've forgotten.The walls that go missing are pretty thin, but they're at least a millimeter at their narrowest point, so I think it should be thick enough for the printer to handle.\n\nHere's a link to the STL file in question, on FileHosting.org, FlashHovering.stl.\n\",Obliterax Scourge of Nations,\"I fixed it!\n\nI had my extruder diameter set to 0.5 mm, and the narrowest point of the model was just a hair under a full millimeter, so I guess the program took it to mean that it should only put down one line of material. I made the walls a little thicker and now it looks fine.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4071,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,werdna3232,1.0891412423578797,3.742219428517731,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,How to generate a STL from a rotational solid of two equations?,\"I have a solid of revolution defined by two equations, and I want to generate a STL file for printing from the difference of the two equations, revolved around x=0. I can get a good visualization when I query this on Wolfram Alpha, but I cannot figure out how to download an STL of this. I know there is a way to do this via Wolfram's Development Program but I'm not sure how or if that is the best way to do this. Solutions do not have to involve WA.\n\",mbmcavoy,\"The Wolfram Alpha \"\"Data Download\"\" feature supports STL format, but is only enabled with a Pro Account.\n\nWhen I click your link to Wolfram, I see the visualization of your equations at the bottom of the page; when I hover over the image, several buttons show below it. One of them is \"\"Data\"\", with a download icon. This gives a number of download options. The File Format drop down includes \"\"STL\"\".\n\",0.0,0.0\n4071,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,werdna3232,1.0891412423578797,3.742219428517731,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,How to generate a STL from a rotational solid of two equations?,\"I have a solid of revolution defined by two equations, and I want to generate a STL file for printing from the difference of the two equations, revolved around x=0. I can get a good visualization when I query this on Wolfram Alpha, but I cannot figure out how to download an STL of this. I know there is a way to do this via Wolfram's Development Program but I'm not sure how or if that is the best way to do this. Solutions do not have to involve WA.\n\",werdna3232,\"The best free solution I could find was to graph this (in Desmos), screenshot it, and convert it into a SVG, convert that into an OpenSCAD file, and then use that to make the STL. A similar process is shown on someone's blog here.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n4076,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,LoomyBear,3.0576060275493275,3.694383166701214,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,3.082726318457765,Best practices to fix a threaded nut inside a print,\"I'm trying to connect two 3D printed parts (ABS) together with a threaded connection. Thus, I need to fix a threaded metal nut (M4) inside a corresponding slot which I've implemented in the design.\n\nRight now I apply a conventional super glue on the nut and press it inside the print, wait for a couple of hours and then use it.\n\nProblem is that the nut keeps falling out of the print when I apply a more tension to the bolt. Can you please advise me on how to make this method work. Maybe some of you aware of special glue for that purposes?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"One good option would be to - if possible - change the design, so the nut is inserted from the opposite side, so that the bolt just pulls it in tighter rather than pulling it out.\n\nAnother option would be to instead of using a nut, use a brass threaded insert. These are like nuts, except they have ridges that are specifically aimed at locking it inside the plastic.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n4076,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,LoomyBear,3.0576060275493275,3.694383166701214,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,3.082726318457765,Best practices to fix a threaded nut inside a print,\"I'm trying to connect two 3D printed parts (ABS) together with a threaded connection. Thus, I need to fix a threaded metal nut (M4) inside a corresponding slot which I've implemented in the design.\n\nRight now I apply a conventional super glue on the nut and press it inside the print, wait for a couple of hours and then use it.\n\nProblem is that the nut keeps falling out of the print when I apply a more tension to the bolt. Can you please advise me on how to make this method work. Maybe some of you aware of special glue for that purposes?\n\",Davo,\"Just heat the nut with a soldering iron to seat it into place (after the print). I've done this many times myself.\n\nEDIT: Try a bit of acetone, to allow the ABS near the nut to reflow.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4090,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,D. Scott Boggs,2.1782824847157594,4.503643887592587,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,My Prusa i3's Z-axis will only go up,\"If I send it commands to go up, the steppers rotate things up. If I tell the Z-axis to go down, nothing happens. I inverted the Z-axis in the firmware (by setting the value to true instead of false), and it did the same thing, but the other way around - it would only go down.\n\",markshancock,\"It sounds like your Z limit switch is stuck.\nThe firmware will prevent the motor going further down past the limit to prevent damage. Be careful going up because if the firmware doesn't know where the bottom is, it doesn't know where the top is.\n\nI checked my printer (an i3 clone) and the limit switches are wired as NC (normally closed). That means that the circuit opens when the switch is activated. So, if the wire (or switch) is broken, or if it is unplugged, it will behave as if the switch is activated (the behavior you are seeing). \n\nAn easy test would be to switch the x-limit and z-limit cables at the controller board. If the problem moves to the x-axis, you have found your problem. BE CAREFUL not to run the motor into the end stop and damage something since there is no limit switch to protect it.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4103,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,holi4683,2.8153892694839717,5.083380189967635,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.9376260060201658,Anet A8 beginning layers not printing correctly,\"I have had an Anet A8 printer for about two months now and still have not gotten it to print good prints. \n\nAt first, it would only print completely solid parts and every time I would try infill from 10-90% the first layer would not stick or it would print really filmy like. As of now, it won't print the first layers for anything well but once it gets up about 10-ish layers it prints perfectly. I have tried a lot of stuff but it seems to be making it worse. \n\nThe pictures show my recent attempt at these settings below (Cura's default for normal quality), the print is supposed to be a 10 mm square. I have gone back to the default settings because nothing else was working.\n\n\nUsing blue painter's tape\nLayer Height 0.1 mm\nIn. Layer Height 0.3 mm\nWallThicken 0.8 mm\nTop/Bottom Thick 0.8 mm\nInfill Density 20%\nGrid Pattern\nPrint Temp 210°C\nBed Temp 65°C\nDia 1.75 mm\nFlow 100%\nBrim (raft is a little better)\n\n\nAny suggestions?\n\n\n\nIn the top picture you can also how the top layer has two bubble effects.\n\n\n\",Tooniis,\"My Anet A8 has a concave bed, which is a defect. Check if yours has the same defect by putting a long ruler on its edge on the bed and look for a gap between it and the bed in the middle. If you find a gap then it is concave. The best solution is to put a piece of glass on the bed instead of blue tape, because glass is very flat. It will also help a lot with bed adhesion. I highly recommend this mod.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4103,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,holi4683,2.8153892694839717,5.083380189967635,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.9376260060201658,Anet A8 beginning layers not printing correctly,\"I have had an Anet A8 printer for about two months now and still have not gotten it to print good prints. \n\nAt first, it would only print completely solid parts and every time I would try infill from 10-90% the first layer would not stick or it would print really filmy like. As of now, it won't print the first layers for anything well but once it gets up about 10-ish layers it prints perfectly. I have tried a lot of stuff but it seems to be making it worse. \n\nThe pictures show my recent attempt at these settings below (Cura's default for normal quality), the print is supposed to be a 10 mm square. I have gone back to the default settings because nothing else was working.\n\n\nUsing blue painter's tape\nLayer Height 0.1 mm\nIn. Layer Height 0.3 mm\nWallThicken 0.8 mm\nTop/Bottom Thick 0.8 mm\nInfill Density 20%\nGrid Pattern\nPrint Temp 210°C\nBed Temp 65°C\nDia 1.75 mm\nFlow 100%\nBrim (raft is a little better)\n\n\nAny suggestions?\n\n\n\nIn the top picture you can also how the top layer has two bubble effects.\n\n\n\",vittorio88,\"When I first started printing with the anet A8, I also had trash first layers.\nI tried (almost) everything:\n\n\nLeveling the bed maniacally several times (all the screws in the\nframe need to be very tight) \nVarying bed temperature and nozzle\ntemperature at all possible combinations. \nAdding blue masking tape\n\n\nNothing would significantly improve my first layer, except for HAIRSPRAY.\n\nAfter discovering this secret, I went back and un-varied everything. I tried with and without tape, at high and low temperatures. With-out the hairspray it never stuck well. With the hairspray it stuck perfectly every time. A small spray is sufficient.\n\nAfter you are done making a mess, use nail polish remover ( acetone ) to properly clean everything.\n\nIf you are doubting your G-code, get a pre-generated one for the A8. The ones that came on the SD card should print very well, nothing like the image you showed of the 1st layer.\n\",0.0,0.0\n4106,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Morgoth,2.8153892694839717,4.893781932065166,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,How do I give 3D-printed parts in ABS a shiny smooth finish?,\"The surfaces of my printed parts using ABS plastic look rough and uneven.\n\nWhat methods can I use to achieve a smoother finish for my for 3D-printed objects?\n\",Morgoth,\"Acetone can be used to smooth ABS.\n\n\nThe left has been smoothed by an acetone bath and the right is the original model. (Image credit: Andrew Sink)\n\nTake note: acetone is dangerous to breathe in, so work in a well ventilated area. It is also flammable.\n\nWarm acetone vapour bath using stove\n\nThis method involves suspending the model in a glass jar of boiling acetone that is heated up by a pot of boiling water.\n\n\nAttach the model to the lid of the jar with some string, keep the string short, so the model is close to the lid.\nPut a few centimetres of water in a pot\nPlace a rag at the bottom of the pot (to keep the jar stable).\nPlace the glass jar in the pot, on top of the rag.\nPlace the pot on the stove and heat to 110°C.\nWhen the acetone is boiling place the dangling model into the jar.\nAfter a few seconds, remove the model.\n\n\nSee here for a step-by-step guide with pictures.\n\nWarm acetone vapour bath using printer bed\n\nThis method elevating the model in a glass jar of acetone that is heated up by the printer's heatbed.\n\n\nFind a non-soluble object that the 3D model can stand on.\nPut a teaspoon of acetone in jar.\nPlace the jar on the heatbed and heat to 110°C.\nPlace the stand into the jar.\nPlace the model on the stand, the stand should not let the acetone touch the model.\nAfter a few minutes, remove the model.\n\n\nSee here for an example.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n4117,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Maxi Aguirre,1.0891412423578797,4.582456693986284,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,I need an acetone substitute,\"Acetone is banned in my country, and I cannot get it.\n\nWhat substitute could I use?\n\",khaverim,\"I have used DCM (dichloromethane, or ethylene dichloride) to dissolve ABS (or cold-weld/glue parts together).\n\nFrom ABS wikipedia page: \n\n\n ABS polymers are resistant to aqueous acids, alkalis, concentrated\n hydrochloric and phosphoric acids, alcohols and animal, vegetable and\n mineral oils, but they are swollen by glacial acetic acid, carbon\n tetrachloride and aromatic hydrocarbons and are attacked by\n concentrated sulfuric and nitric acids. They are soluble in esters,\n ketones, ethylene dichloride and acetone.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4117,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Maxi Aguirre,1.0891412423578797,4.582456693986284,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,I need an acetone substitute,\"Acetone is banned in my country, and I cannot get it.\n\nWhat substitute could I use?\n\",Greenonline,\"The answer really depends on what you are using it for. Is it for dissolving ABS? A quick google search should show you what you want.\n\nThe thread, Could you recommend me a suitable alternative to acetone as solvent?, has a good many points that are worth considering:\n\nFor example, you may need to consider the Polarity Index\n\n\n Burdick & Jackson solvents are arranged in order of increasing\n polarity index, a relative measure of the degree of interaction of the\n solvent with various polar test solutes.\n\n\nIf you are using it to dissolve a polymer other than ABS, then the family/class of polymer may need to be considered:\n\n\n Apart from your desired solvent qualities (non-flammability and low boiling point), the choice will be totally dependent on the family/ class which the polymer  belongs. Based on the principal that 'like dissolves like, the attached document will provide you with good ideas on which solvent to use when a particular repeating unit of the polymer is involved. \n\n\nButanone is a possibility:\n\n\n One alternative is butanone (button-2-one) - this is similar to acetone, but has a much higher boiling point. It is often used for alkylations etc. It has a boiling point of 79-80°C compared to 56°C of acetone. \n\n\nor NMP:\n\n\n N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone (NMP) can be used. It is a polar aprotic solvent and dissolves many polymers. It has high boiling point ( >200 degree centigrade)  It is soluble in water and easy to dispose which is a great advantage during work up of reactions. \n\n\nHowever, some other alternative chemicals are listed here (from Any good alternative to Acetone?:\n\n\nButyl alcohol\nmethyl isobutyl keytone (MIBK)\ndenatured alcohol\nMEK (methyl,ethyl,ketone), i.e. Kleen-Strip MEK Alternative\nEthyl Acetate\n\n\nSome branded items, from Alternatives to Acetone:\n\n\n \n Surfasolve\n \n \n \n Surfasolve is a 100 percent biodegradable acetone replacement that removes adhesives, degreases tools and works as a resin solvent.\n Surfasolve is a non-regulated product.\n \n \n \n Bio-Solv\n \n \n \n Bio-Solv is an acetone replacement that is 100 percent biodegradable. It is not deemed a hazmat, so shipping will not cost\n you more. This acetone alternative is not listed on California\n Proposition 65, a law passed in 1986 to keep substances that cause\n cancer and birth defects out of drinking water. Nevertheless, you want\n to use Bio-Solv in a well-ventilated area because of an unpleasant\n odor. It is not, however, a hazardous air pollutant. Bio-Solv is not\n petroleum based.\n \n \n \n Replacetone\n \n \n \n Replacetone is another acetone alternative. It is nonflammable and nonvolatile. It can be used as an acetone or MEK (methyl ethyl ketone,\n an industrial solvent) replacement that is biodegradable. Both\n Replacetone and Bio-Solv are referred to as green acetone.\n \n \n \n Methyl Acetate\n \n \n \n Methyl acetate is offered as an acetone replacement. Manufactured by the Eastman Chemical Company, it is utilized in industrial\n applications. It is biodegradable, volatile organic compound exempt\n and non-HAP (hazardous air pollutant)\n \n\n\nImportant note\n\nHowever, some of these items may also be banned in your country, so check first. As you do not say which country that you are from, it is not possible to qualify this statement.\n\nIt is worth remembering that some of these substances are not as safe as acetone, and the fumes may be more toxic, so they should always be used in well ventilated spaces.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4122,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tosterovic,2.1782824847157594,3.646280618164887,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Printer goes beyond the bed when auto leveling,\"I am trying to add auto bed leveling to my Prusa i3. When I run G28 my printer hits the X and Y end stops properly, then it assumes X=25, Y=99 position on the bed and performs Z homing, after which it stays there. The problem is when I run G29 then it starts following the grid points from this position and tries to go out of bed.\n\nMy settings for the grid are:\n\n#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 10\n#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 140\n#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 140\n#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 20\n\n\nAnd travel limits are set to this:\n\n#define X_MAX_POS 150\n#define X_MIN_POS 0\n#define Y_MAX_POS 150\n#define Y_MIN_POS 0\n#define Z_MAX_POS 220\n#define Z_MIN_POS 0\n\n\nI guess this might be relevant too:\n\n#ifdef Z_SAFE_HOMING\n\n #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT (X_MAX_LENGTH/2)\n #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT (Y_MAX_LENGTH/2)\n\n#endif\n\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"I don't know how your firmware load handles G29 ,but here's a guess, based on information at the reprap wiki . Try using FBLR to force the travel limits. \n\n\n Parameters\n \n P Set the size of the grid that will be probed (P x P\n points). Not supported by non-linear delta printer bed leveling. \n Example: G29 P4 S Set the XY travel speed between probe points (in\n units/min)\n D Dry-Run mode. Just evaluate the bed Topology - Don't\n apply or clean the rotation Matrix. Useful to check the topology after\n a first run of G29.\n V Set the verbose level (0-4). Example: G29 V3\n T\n Generate a Bed Topology Report. Example: G29 P5 T for a detailed\n report. This is useful for manual bed leveling and finding flaws in\n the bed (to assist with part placement). Not supported by non-linear\n delta printer bed leveling.\n F Set the Front limit of the probing grid\n B Set the Back limit of the probing grid.\n L Set the Left limit of the\n probing grid\n R Set the Right limit of the probing grid\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4127,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,speendo,1.726248027126092,2.963858119231408,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Best practise of re-modeling a building,\"The organization I am working for plans to pull down and rebuild our office building. As some people are a bit sentimental about the old building, we think about making a 3D model of the old building.\n\nThe old house was built in the 60s or 70s, when everything was done by hand. So we have some really detailed hand-drawn plans of the building. We also have a nice and detailed (physical) 3D model of the house. However, what we don't have yet is any material that can be processed in modern 3D modeling software.\n\nSo this is what my question is about:\nWhat is the best (easiest, with reasonable degree of details) way to make a 3D model of the old building?\n\nAt the moment I think of two different paths:\n\n\nTransferring the hand drawn plans to a 3D modeling software. I think, Sketchup might be suitable, but I am open for suggestions. It should be something easy to start with as I would like to motivate some colleagues to join the project.\nUsing some kind of photogrammetry software to transfer the (hand crafted) 3D model of the building to an \"\"electronic\"\" 3D model. I have no experience with this method, however if it works it might be much easier to do.\n\n\nCan you help me to decide which path to choose and give me some tips on how to do it exactly?\n\",markshancock,\"That are certainly trade-offs between the two options.\n\nI think main trade-off between the two options you described would be visual details vs. configurability. \n\nWith a scanned design you have the ability to capture all the visual details that are in your hand crafted model. Those same details might require more effort than you are willing to put into a CAD design (like window and door detail and other architectural accents).\n\nThe big disadvantage of a scanned model it that it would not be parametric so you can't fiddle with design details - like adjusting the width or spacing of the windows, the position of a door or external approach (stairs, etc). Also you could play with the external skins/finishes and play with how wood looked as compared to concrete of brick. \n\nAnother advantage of a CAD model would be that you would not be able to break out components and print them separately because of print volume issues or to be able to print in different colors. \n\nMy personal preference would be to create a 3D Model using a CAD package. The limitation on this would be that it might not have the same level of detail; but it would be much more flexible. You could probably create the base design pretty easily either from the architectural drawings or by deconstructing the hand crafted model. The model was probably built from pieces much the same way a 3D CAD model is created.\n\nHere is a good example of how to do that. In the example, they create a pretty detailed house design in Sketchup in 35 min by starting with scans of the architectural drawings.\n\n\nThere are quite a few other similar videos so you should look for the one that fits you best.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4129,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gdalya,2.1782824847157594,5.86171746352538,2.7799718631987322,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Maker Select Plus 3D Printer Head Size Settings for Cura,\"I want to print multiple objects in a single G-code file on my Maker Select Plus 3D Printer.\n\nOn the Cura \"\"Machine>Machine Settings...\"\" menu, what are the correct settings for \"\"Printer head size\"\" in the upper right quadrant?\n\nMy best guess is below:\n\n\n\nNote 1: I'm particularly concerned that I got the min and max directions correct. For instance, I just swapped my Y min and Y max values because when I tried them the other way, the print head impacted the first object when printing the second.\n\nNote 1.5: I added 10 mm to my settings because I was concerned that Cura wasn't accounting for the width of the raft that I usually use when I print.\n\nNote 2: From what I've read online before posting this question, this printer may be physically the same as the WanHao Duplicator i3.\n\",Greenonline,\"TL;DR\n\nThe settings that you seem to need can be found here: Print One At a time settings? CURA:\n\n\n You actually can!\n \n Providing that none of your object is too tall (taller than the Gantry\n clearance). Also the objects cannot be too close from each other (when\n you activate the option and move objects on the bed, you see a gray\n box around them showing this limit).\n \n The reason you cannot use it at the moment is probably because you\n didn't filled the printer head size parameters (Menu \"\"Machine ->\n Machine Settings...\"\"). You will have to measure them, but on mine\n (Australian clone of the i3) I use those values and it works fine:\n \n \n Head size toward X min: 30 \n Head size toward Y min: 70 \n Head size toward X max: 60 \n Head size toward Y max: 50 \n Printer gantry height: 35 \n \n \n Those are \"\"conservative\"\" values (a little bigger than the actual\n values). It means I'm losing a little bed space, but I prefer that to\n the risk of having the print head knocking out previous prints if one\n of the measurements is too low :o).\n \n PS: The option will automatically disable itself if some object\n dimension are too big to avoid collisions\n\n\nTo be fair, the rest of the thread is people debating whether you can successfully achieve sequential printing, or not, with the Wanhao Duplicator I3. \n\nHowever, the setting above seem to be the settings that you are looking for. Apart from Head size toward X max, they also correlate, pretty much, to the settings that you have already determined. As the poster notes, their settings are, somewhat, on the conservative side, which would explain the difference.\n\n\n\nExtra detail\n\nIf this is so that you can achieve sequential printing1, then this may not be suitable for your printer, unfortunately. Sequential printing works best for printers with a long nozzle with nothing (fans, X-axis gantry, etc.) around it, for example a delta printer with a low hanging nozzle would be ideal. Your printer type has a wide head with attachments, as well as an X-axis gantry, and so the clearance is less than that of an (ideal) delta.\n\nSee WanHao Duplicator i3 Printer Head Size Settings for Cura for more details.\n\nIf you wish to go ahead and still try it, then from the same link:\n\n\n The way to measure is lower the nozzle to the bed.\n \n Then measure the space taken up around the nozzle by the heater block, fans, mounting, the motor, and finally, the distance between the X axis rods and the bed \"\"WHEN the nozzle is touching the bed\"\".\n \n That gives you some idea of the clearance you have where an ALREADY printed object can exist on the bed and NOT get slammed into the gantry or moving head when printing a second sequential part.\n \n Just a visual with a moving bed printer and it's not promising.\n Not impossible, but in a 200mm square build area, you might really only get 4 objects at a time in the 4 quadrants.\n \n Even that is height limited because the gantry will slam into it at a certain height.\n \n Maybe some weird staggering pattern.\n\n\nAlso, of use, for obtaining your own measurements, from Ultimaker - Cura 14.07 Printer Head Size:\n\n\n If I'm not mistaken all measurements are taken from the nozzle tip. So, for the first one, measure the size of your head from the nozzle tip towards the direction in X to where your machine homes.\n\n\nand\n\n\n There's a tooltip when you mouse over these settings which describes what they mean.\n \n Gantry height is the vertical clearance between the build plate and your x-y gantry (on the Ultimaker, these are the 6mm shafts which hold the head).\n \n If you print two objects - one after another - then the first object must be shorter in height than the gantry height. Otherwise, the gantry would crash into the first part while printing the second part.\n\n\nIn more detail, paying attention to the placing of the objects can aid with any issues that you have with a low gantry:\n\n\n If you place multiple parts in a diagonal line across the build-plate so the gantry and head never intersects earlier parts after printing them, you can set the gantry height to an artificially high value, to ignore it, without problems.\n \n I place pieces along a diagonal from right-front to left-rear, to avoid conflict when the head homes after finishing the print. I can fit 3 to 4 small but tall pieces on the build plate that way for sequential printing.\n\n\nThe purpose of these Printer head size settings is to enable Cura to determine the order in which the objects are printed:\n\n\n ... none of those settings are important as long as you only print one STL file at a time. It's when you want to print multiple objects \"\"one at a time\"\" that these numbers have a purpose - it allows Cura to figure out which order to print them in and if it can do them one at a time or if it has to print them all at once.\n\n\n\n\nFootnote\n\n1 Sequential Printing is where one object is completely printed, before moving on to the next object, instead of the usual method of printing all objects simultaneously one layer at a time. This method can give superior quality prints, but not always. The main advantage appears to be reduced \"\"stringing\"\" of filament between objects, and a cleaner surface finish, due to reduced print head movement between objects. The process is detailed in Multi-part printing.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4286,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gdalya,2.8153892694839717,4.870858041653847,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,0.0,0.0,How do I get a replacement PTFE tube to fit inside my nozzle?,\"I have been getting clogs and believe that it may be due to a damaged PTFE tube inside my hot end. I have a replacement (it came with my printer), but I can't seem to fit the tube into the nozzle.\n\nI also tried to turn the original PTFE tube around, and I can't get the other end to fit into the nozzle either.\n\nIs there a trick to it?\n\",Gdalya,\"In the end, I was able to get the tube in the nozzle.\n\nIt took a lot of patience, and it seems to help if the nozzle is warm as well.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n4286,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gdalya,2.8153892694839717,4.870858041653847,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,0.0,0.0,How do I get a replacement PTFE tube to fit inside my nozzle?,\"I have been getting clogs and believe that it may be due to a damaged PTFE tube inside my hot end. I have a replacement (it came with my printer), but I can't seem to fit the tube into the nozzle.\n\nI also tried to turn the original PTFE tube around, and I can't get the other end to fit into the nozzle either.\n\nIs there a trick to it?\n\",KDM,\"For the sake of the few pennies, I'd buy the threaded tube with the PTFE already in from any internet auction site.\n\",0.0,0.0\n4520,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gdalya,1.0891412423578797,4.8630428748569745,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Stringy PETG prints,\"I have started printing with PETG so I can create objects that won't deform if I leave them in my car.\n\nMy first prints look good, but have strings of material coming off the print in places.\n\nWhat should I try to prevent that? \n\nI haven't had this problem with PLA. \n\",ctag,\"I've had similar experiences switching from PLA to PETG, and haven't gotten it fully figured out yet.\n\nFrom what I know so far, to reduce petg strings:\n\n\nIncrease retraction\nLower temperature\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4520,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gdalya,1.0891412423578797,4.8630428748569745,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Stringy PETG prints,\"I have started printing with PETG so I can create objects that won't deform if I leave them in my car.\n\nMy first prints look good, but have strings of material coming off the print in places.\n\nWhat should I try to prevent that? \n\nI haven't had this problem with PLA. \n\",Kotiq,\"If you are using a printer that runs Marlin, you might consider upgrading to a version with Linear Advance. Once I started using Linear Advance, I reduced the stringing of PETG. \nAlso I was able to reduce the retraction amount without reducing the quality of the prints.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4131,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bryson Jack,2.1782824847157594,4.6741597856643065,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Monoprice Maker Ultimate Extrudes Too Much Filament At Start,\"Today I received my Monoprice Maker Ultimate 3D Printer. It is a rebranded Wanhao Duplicator 6 for reference. I am using the default settings for a Wanhao Duplicator 6 in Simplify3D.\n\nHere is the Start G-Code that Simplify3D has setup for me via the Configuration Assistant:\n\nG28 ; home all axes\nG92 E0 ; zero the extruded length\nG1 Z10 ; lower\nG1 E20 F200 ; purge nozzle quickly\nG1 E10 F60 ; purge nozzle slowly\nG92 E0 ; zero the extruded length again\nG1 E-1.5 F400 ; retract\nG1 X170 Z0 F9000 ; pull away filament\nG1 X180 F9000 ; wipe\nG1 Y20 F9000 ; wipe\nG1 E0 ; feed filament back\n\n\nThe problem is that right before a print, the extruder squeezes out a bunch of filament making a nice little spiral tower. It is a waste of filament. I suspect it is all the purging in the Start Code that is doing it, but I don't know what I should change because I don't know what is necessary, so I am coming here to ask the question before I start experimenting. Has anyone had this problem? Does anyone know the solution?\n\nUpdate: I tried printing one of the models that came on the SD card with the printer (I think it was created with Cura) and the Start G-code is different.\n\nG21 ;metric values\nG90 ;absolute positioning\nM82 ;set extruder to absolute mode\nM107 ;start with the fan off\nG28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops\nG28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops\nG1 Z15.0 F4800 ;move the platform down 15mm\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length\nG1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again\nG1 F4800\n;Put printing message on LCD screen\nM117 Printing...\n\n\nIt also uses absolute positioning. It got going without purging a bunch of unnecessary filament on that print. Now I am not sure how to combine these two to get the good working starting G-code. Any ideas?\n\",tjb1,\"Changing the Simplify3D start script to this will change the nozzle purge to the same length as what was on your SD card.\n\n G28 ; home all axes\n G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length\n G1 Z10 ; lower\n G1 E20 F200 ; purge nozzle quickly<---------Change E20 to E3, E is the extrusion length\n G1 E10 F60 ; purge nozzle slowly <----------Remove this line\n G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length again\n G1 E-1.5 F400 ; retract\n G1 X170 Z0 F9000 ; pull away filament\n G1 X180 F9000 ; wipe\n G1 Y20 F9000 ; wipe\n G1 E0 ; feed filament back\n\n\nThe rest of it is just moves to try to clean the nozzle.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4135,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bryson Jack,2.1782824847157594,4.5916995069371636,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How do I get my Wanhao Duplicator 6 / Maker Ultimate to lower bed at end of print?,\"What would be the end g-code so that I can get my Monoprice Ultimate (Wanhao D6) to lower the bed to midway on the frame or something easier to remove the print? The default end position is very high up at the top.\n\",tjb1,\"In your ending script add the line below and change Z200.0 to your max Z height. This will rapid to the given value using absolute coordinates. I added G90 in case G91 was previously set so it did not do a relative move. I'm not positive if G91 is modal in printer firmwares or not but the G90 should not hurt anything.\n\nG90 G0 Z200.0\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4133,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kwasmich,2.8153892694839717,4.294308354176618,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Slic3r settings for flat slopes on top,\"I am having trouble printing a hollow object using Slic3r. On flat slopes on top, there are gaps that I cannot get fixed. The perimeters of successive layers just don't cover each other.\n\nCura however adds filament to cover the gaps.\n\nThe bottom left bunny is sliced with Slic3r 1.2.9.99.\nThe top right bunny is sliced with Cura 2.5. Take a closer look at the forehead and the back of the bottom left bunny.\n\nI have \"\"extra perimeters if needed\"\" turned on. But turning it off makes no difference. What am I missing?\n\nSo far only adding infill and increase the solid top layer count helps to get a closed surface. But then everything gets stiffer. The bunnies are printed with nylon so they are a bit squishy.\n\n\n\nThe printer settings in both Cura and Slic3r are:\n\n\n0.4 mm nozzel;\n0.2 mm layer height;\nNo infill;\n2 perimeter walls, and;\n3 solid top/bottom layers.\n\n\",Davo,\"What infill are you using? How flexible do you need the object to be?\n\nI suggest two or three top and bottom layers, and a second or third solid perimeter as well.\n\nThe slicer has to determine if a particular path is part of an external perimeter or a top layer, so adding one to each should give a better result.\n\nThinner layers and a fan cooling the deposited material both help with overhangs like this.\n\",0.0,0.0\n4133,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kwasmich,2.8153892694839717,4.294308354176618,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Slic3r settings for flat slopes on top,\"I am having trouble printing a hollow object using Slic3r. On flat slopes on top, there are gaps that I cannot get fixed. The perimeters of successive layers just don't cover each other.\n\nCura however adds filament to cover the gaps.\n\nThe bottom left bunny is sliced with Slic3r 1.2.9.99.\nThe top right bunny is sliced with Cura 2.5. Take a closer look at the forehead and the back of the bottom left bunny.\n\nI have \"\"extra perimeters if needed\"\" turned on. But turning it off makes no difference. What am I missing?\n\nSo far only adding infill and increase the solid top layer count helps to get a closed surface. But then everything gets stiffer. The bunnies are printed with nylon so they are a bit squishy.\n\n\n\nThe printer settings in both Cura and Slic3r are:\n\n\n0.4 mm nozzel;\n0.2 mm layer height;\nNo infill;\n2 perimeter walls, and;\n3 solid top/bottom layers.\n\n\",markshancock,\"This seems to be a recurring problem with Slic3r.\n\nSlic3r appears to have problems with perimeters that are not attached to infill. I suspect that it is getting confused on what is the inside and what is the outside. I know that seems a bit silly; but as you slice an object with indentations (like the bunny's face) then the perimeter can cease to be a simple closed shape and it gets confused. If you use a viewer to step through the gcode layers around the place it starts having problems you may be able to see what is going wrong.\n\nHere are a couple of examples of why I say this is a recurring problem with slic3r. I also recall seeing a video that showed the problem but I can't remember where. That was one of the reasons I don't use slic3r.\n\n\nReported on Sic3r Git in 2012 - Can't tell for sure if this was ever fixed\nInfill Perimeter issue in 2015\n\n\nHere are three options that may work\n\n\nUse a different slicer for this specific condition. Every product is going to have vulnerabilities - this may be one of slic3r's.\nIncrease the perimeter and top and bottom layer thicknesses. Making them thick enough it will bridge the problem areas. Use a gcode viewer to inspect that area to see if it fixed the problem. That way you don't waste material on another fail. It sounds like you may have already tried this but you didn't like that it made the model stiffer.\nRepair the STL file using an application like Meshmixer. Maybe you will have to get the file close then tweak it where it doesn't. Here is good article from PinShape repairing and STL file.\n\n\nGood luck, hope this helps.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n4144,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Andy K,1.726248027126092,4.34521030761168,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,PLA filament not feeding correctly with Ultimaker 2+,\"I've got the following PLA filament that is not feeding correctly into our Ultimaker 2+\n\nIt starts to feed and then all of the sudden, the wire 'eats' (read breaks, but not entirely) the plastic filament as you can see on the picture below:\n\n\n\nAny hints are more than welcomed.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"The photograph and your description indicate that the drive gear is eating the filament because the filament has stopped moving. The least likely problem would be that something is jammed at the spool or between the spool and the entry to the drive mechanism.\n\nThe more likely problem is that your nozzle is clogged. It is simple to determine if that is the case. If you have a direct drive mechanism (not a bowden tube type), remove all the filament and release the wheel or bearing that presses the filament against the hobbed pulley, which is the part connected to the motor or driven gear if you have a geared mechanism.\n\nHeat the nozzle up to correct temperature for PLA and attempt to push filament through the nozzle. If it does not move, your nozzle is clogged and has to be cleared.\n\nA nozzle clog can be caused by a too-low temperature or a too-high temperature resulting in burned material becoming jammed in the nozzle.\n\nIf you have a 0.40 nozzle, find that size of nozzle tool or use a 0.40 mm drill bit and carefully push and turn it into the nozzle.\n\nAlso consider to use nylon cleaning method. This involves heating the nozzle to the correct temperature for melting nylon filament, forcing it into the hot end, then allowing it to cool. Reheating it while pulling on the filament will remove some of the debris. Eventually, it will pass through the nozzle and will also pull out clean, with no debris on the end of the filament. It is suggested to research \"\"nylon cleaning method\"\" to learn correct temperatures.\n\nI have used the nylon cleaning method and have removed debris from overheated filament in the past. I have been able to shine a bright light from below and see the open nozzle after completing the process.\n\nThe above steps are identical for bowden type systems and require to remove the bowden tube to access the hot end more effectively. The tube can be removed from either the hot end or the drive end, but force is more effectively applied if the tube is removed from the hot end.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n4144,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Andy K,1.726248027126092,4.34521030761168,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,PLA filament not feeding correctly with Ultimaker 2+,\"I've got the following PLA filament that is not feeding correctly into our Ultimaker 2+\n\nIt starts to feed and then all of the sudden, the wire 'eats' (read breaks, but not entirely) the plastic filament as you can see on the picture below:\n\n\n\nAny hints are more than welcomed.\n\",KS Birdi,\"I had a clogged filament. I heated up to 240 C, and pushed a wire up through the nozzle. It took some effort, and much patience is expected. I left the wire inside, as it helped soften the PLA. Then I pushed the filament by hand from top. After some efforts, the needle moved, indicating the movement of the PLA clog. Once the PLA starts pushing the clogged area, some material comes out the nozzle. Keep pushing and after some hours of effort all is flowing fine! The idea was to transport heat to the clogged PLA by using the needle (from the nozzle end). But it certainly requires patience!\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4150,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ojasvi Srivastava,1.0891412423578797,4.5841465167804,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Delta printer printing incorrect dimensions in X and Y directions. Z dimensions are correct,\"I had to pause an ongoing print (because of complicated reasons) and that caused the printer to reboot (I don't know why).\n\nWhen it rebooted, the Z extents were screwed up. I know this because when I gave the print again, the nozzle hit the print bed and started grinding.\n\nThe printer has an auto bed levelling function that runs before every print.\n\nIt takes three points on the bed where the sensor needle comes down to contact in a vertical to-and-fro motion. When that runs now, the head starts its vertical to-and-fro motion from a point considerably higher than where it used to start from earlier. The sensor needle does come down to touch the bed but it takes a longer time per point since the distance travelled is more now. (Hope this is clear)\n\nTo print again, I compensated for the Z-direction by giving a global offset (2.65 mm) while generating G-code. But I realised later that X and Y dimensions were incorrect (larger by 4.6% to be precise). I tested this by printing cubes of 10, 20, 30 and 100 mm. The Z dimensions are perfect though.\n\nAlso, there have been weird \"\"lags\"\" while printing larger objects. The print head stutters and this is causing sharp vertexes in between curves and some little blotching of material.\n\nThe printer runs on Repetier 0.92.6 and I've been reading about it but its honestly intimidating to me. Please let me know how to figure out what to change and by how much.\n\nEdit: I agree this is quite similar to scaling issues thread here: Scaling/size issues in delta printers\n\nI just want to know what could've caused this problem, whether there are any other possible solutions, and how to get started with Repetier framework.\n\nEdit2: Attached image is the bottom surface of the 100 mm cube. You might notice slight charring on the bottom right corner. The masking sheet I pasted on the print bed was charred underneath. Also, it's evident that the bottom surface is not as compact at the corners as it is in the center.\n\n\n\nWhat could be the possible reasons for that?\n\",Ecnerwal,\"As detailed at minow.blogspot.com (which I found very helpful for the most part - it was the first link in the answer to my related question) you need to check/adjust the zero in front of each tower, check the zero in the center, tweak the radius, and repeat (checking the zeros at the edge of the bed in front of each tower again) until it's correct. \n\nAfter that you adjust the rod length to correct XY size (and recheck all 4 zeros, thus the radius - it makes for a less than exciting day, but is worth it in the long run.) \n\nYou either need to turn off EEPROM until you have the right settings, or save the setting to EEPROM each time - depends how worried you are about using up EEPROM write cycles, I guess.\n\nYou should also turn off auto-bed-levelling while getting the basic calibration correct, per the same blog instructions.\n\nMy fun with figuring out what my EEPROM was doing behind my back is here:\nDelta printer not responding to changes in DELTA_RADIUS\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4161,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ojasvi Srivastava,2.1782824847157594,4.0952736492673365,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Help with Repetier firmware (probably locked and licensed),\"I'm in the process of tweaking the firmware (Repetier 0.92.6) because of some problems mentioned here: Delta printer printing incorrect dimensions in X and Y directions. Z dimensions are correct\n\nBut I found out that the printer manufacturer has locked the firmware (probably) and I cannot edit it. So I have to burn a new one (I guess? Correct me if I'm wrong)\n\nPrinter name: Dimension Dual Delta\n\nManufacturer: J Group Robotics\n\nWebsite: http://www.jgrouprobotics.com/dimension-dual-delta\n\nI have the slicer (Simplify3D) configured with the FFF profile as my printer was working completely fine up until a few weeks ago. I just want to know that if I change the firmware, would I have to change/update the profile as well? If yes, how do I do that?\n\n\n\nHere is a screenshot of Repetier host. The \"\"JGR\"\" continues indefinitely:\n\n\n\nHere is the actual log text\n\n22:56:00.216 : OpenGL version:4.2.0\n22:56:00.218 : OpenGL renderer:GeForce GT 540M/PCIe/SSE2\n22:56:00.218 : Using fast VBOs for rendering is possible\n22:56:06.634 : Printer reset detected - initalizing\n22:56:06.661 : start\n22:56:06.662 : Info:External Reset\n22:56:06.662 : Info:Autoleveling enabled\n22:56:06.662 : Transformation matrix: 0.999994 0.000010 0.003587 0.000000 0.999996 -0.002727 -0.003587 0.002727 0.999990\n22:56:06.865 : N1 M110*34\n22:56:06.865 : N2 M115*36\n22:56:06.865 : N3 M105*36\n22:56:06.865 : N4 M114*35\n22:56:06.865 : N5 M111 S6*98\n22:56:06.869 : N6 T0*60\n22:56:06.870 : N7 M20*22\n22:56:06.871 : N8 M80*19\n22:56:06.872 : N9 M105*46\n22:56:08.706 : Free RAM:1002\n22:56:08.706 : Autoretract:0\n22:56:08.706 : X:0.00 Y:0.00 Z:0.000 E:0.0000\n22:56:08.713 : N10 M220 S100*80\n22:56:08.713 : N11 M221 S100*80\n22:56:08.714 : N12 M111 S6*84\n22:56:08.714 : FIRMWARE_NAME:Repetier_0.92.6 FIRMWARE_URL:https://github.com/repetier/Repetier-Firmware/ PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:Delta EXTRUDER_COUNT:2 REPETIER_PROTOCOL:3\n22:56:08.714 : Printed filament:32.75m Printing time:0 days 6 hours 0 min\n22:56:08.714 : PrinterMode:FFF\n22:56:08.714 : N13 T0*8\n22:56:08.745 : X:0.00 Y:0.00 Z:0.000 E:0.0000\n22:56:08.745 : Begin file list\n22:56:08.746 : End file list\n22:56:09.726 : JGR\n22:56:09.960 : N14 M105*18\n22:56:10.972 : JGR\n22:56:11.979 : JGR\n22:56:12.969 : JGR\n22:56:13.016 : N15 M105*19\n22:56:14.028 : JGR\n22:56:15.035 : JGR\n22:56:16.025 : JGR\n22:56:16.072 : N16 M105*16\n22:56:17.085 : JGR\n22:56:18.091 : JGR\n22:56:19.081 : JGR\n22:56:19.134 : N17 M105*17\n22:56:20.157 : JGR\n22:56:21.163 : JGR\n22:56:22.154 : JGR\n22:56:22.189 : N18 M105*30\n22:56:23.202 : JGR\n22:56:24.208 : JGR\n22:56:25.199 : JGR\n22:56:25.245 : N19 M105*31\n22:56:26.253 : JGR\n22:56:27.261 : JGR\n22:56:28.267 : JGR\n22:56:28.307 : N20 M105*21\n22:56:29.319 : JGR\n22:56:30.326 : JGR\n22:56:31.316 : JGR\n22:56:31.363 : N21 M105*20\n22:56:32.376 : JGR\n22:56:33.382 : JGR\n22:56:34.372 : JGR\n\n\n\n\nEdit: Since it is advisable to get a new controller board and keep the current one as it is, I'm attaching a picture of what my printer is controlled by.\n\n\n\nThe black box on the green board reads HRD 12008. Google says its a DC-DC SMPS module but mine has some extra connectors than what I could find online.\n\nThe black board is a MKS Base v1.3\n\nThe other box is a solid state relay.\n\nThis is more intimidating than I thought it would be. How do I proceed now? If I get a brand new controller board to play with, which should it be? Also, I can't seem to locate any RAMPS shield.\n\",Greenonline,\"The firmware is not really locked by the OEM1, you just need to upload (or, as you say burn) a new version. This is not unusual2.\n\nRepetier is just like any other firmware that uses Arduino boards. While it may seem intimidating at first, it really is quite easy to regularly upload new firmware to the Arduino Mega 2560 board3. If you are not familiar with Arduino programming at all, then there are a good number of Repetier oriented guides out there, for example, from Repetier's own web site, Repetier-Firmware Documentation.\n\nIf are you familiar with Arduino programming, then it really is the same as uploading the Blink sketches, but the base code is just bigger, that is all.\n\nThere is too much to detail in a simple answer here and, as I stated above, there are a lot of online guides. However, en bref:\n\n\nDownload and install the Arduino IDE to your Mac/Wintel/Linux PC;\nDownload the latest Repetier firmware to your Mac/Wintel/Linux PC4;\nConnect the Arduino Mega 2560 to your PC using a USB cable;\nChange the settings, i.e. Boards and Port settings, in the Arduino IDE, so that your PC can \"\"see\"\" the Arduino Mega 2560;\nOpen the Reptier firmware, that you have just downloaded, in the Arduino IDE;\nConfigure the Repetier firmware source code, i.e. make some edits in the Configuration.h file5, with the tweaks that you require (which you mention in your question)6;\nCompile the firmware using the Arduino IDE. and (finally);\nUpload the firmware to the Arduino Mega 2560.\n\n\nThat is it. Once you have done it a few times, it will become second nature.\n\nWatch a few online youtube videos, as well, before you start, so that you have a better idea of what to do. For example:\n\n\nRepetier 0 92 8 Firmware Configration. or;\nKossel Mini 3D Printer Repetier Firmware and Calibration. \nAs an aside, for gaining a basic understanding of the configuration file of Marlin, not Repetier, I found this video #18: Calibration extremely useful. If you feel like changing the firmware completely, this may come in handy.\n\n\nWith respect to the Slicer's profile settings... I am not sure about that at all.\n\nThe reason that you have no RAMPS board is that, on your MKS board, the RAMPS and the Arduino are merged into one. Any new controller would work, as they all run the same firmware. There are many to choose from. As you are just experimenting (and reverse engineering) at this stage, I personally would buy a cheap Chinese Arduino Mega 2560 (€6) and RAMPS (€4) board on eBay, for a total of only €10 (if you buy them separately - don't get a combination \"\"deal\"\" as they are generally more expensive - although compare the prices first, you may find a bargain), to test your settings. Once you are happy with those settings, then you can spend more money on a better board, should you feel that you need it.\n\n\n\nFootnotes\n\n1 If you have to get around the licensing, then it sounds like you could/should recompile the firmware, or use some other firmware, i.e. Marlin. However, wait to see what other people suggest. \n\n2 There really isn't much risk in uploading new firmware. The only risk, which I guess Mark is referring to, is that you may/will not have the correct firmware settings for your make of printer, and therefore the printer may not work correctly, until you get the firmware settings correct. So, in that respect, it is a good idea to buy a secondary Arduino Mega and RAMPS1.4 board to play with, for just $10 (Chinese clones work just fine). But, as you say that your board already has bad settings, and you do not wish to pay for more licensing, then you haven't much to lose by uploading new firmware to it, except the warranty. So, if I were in your position, and I did not want to pay the licensing, I would set aside the supplied controller (for possible future use/reference), and use a Arduino Mega 2560/RAMPS 1.4 combination to control the printer. That said, if your printer is still under warranty, can't you ask the manufacturer to supply you a new controller with the correct settings?\n\n3 There is no way of extracting the code from an Arduino and then modifying it. You need the original source code files. See Is there any way to download a sketch from an Arduino? OK, you can obtain the machine code, but unless you are an expert, or guru, modifying it is impossible.\n\n4 The installation order, of the Arduino IDE and Repetier, will not matter. You probably need to rebuild the firmware, I would guess, but I am not 100% sure. It might be a good idea to contact the vendor to see what they recommend, before overwriting their code (assuming that the control board came pre-programmed)\n\n5 I found this video #18: Calibration extremely useful, for configuring Marlin, and understanding the firmware settings in the Configuration.h file.\n\n6 You may find this link useful for your \"\"tweaks\"\": Repetier-Firmware configuration tool for version 0.92.9 version\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4184,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ojasvi Srivastava,2.8153892694839717,4.766100393733715,2.7799718631987322,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Help with Repetier firmware variables (Dimension Dual Delta - J Group Robotics),\"So I'm finally building a new firmware (Repetier) since my current one can't be edited. It is a Delta printer and is explained in detail here: Help with Repetier firmware (probably locked and licensed)\n\nThere are many variables that I couldn't find in the EEPROM. Can someone please explain those to me (listed below)? I've listed only the ones I feel are the most important for now.\n\nGeneral and Dimensions:\n\n\nKILL_METHOD\nSTARTUP_GCODE\nDELTA_FLOOR_SAFETY_MARGIN_MM\nMax. horizontal radius (DELTA_MAX_RADIUS): I have \"\"max printable\nradius\"\" and \"\"delta radius\"\" A(0), B(0) & C(0) each.\nRadius error column A/B/C (DELTA_RADIUS_CORRECTION_A/B/C): Could\nthis be the delta radii A(0), B(0) & C(0)?\n\n\n\n\nZ-correction (distortion correction)\n\n\nFull correction until (FC) or DISTORTION_START_DEGRADE\nReduce correction to zero at (RZ) or DISTORTION_END_HEIGHT\nCorrection radius (DISTORTION_CORRECTION_R)\nUpdate every x computations (DISTORTION_UPDATE_FREQUENCY)\n\n\nI have the following in EEPROM:\n\n\nZ-probe height [mm]\nMax. z-probe - bed dist. [mm]\nZ-probe speed [mm/s]\nZ-probe x-y-speed [mm/s]\nZ-probe offset x [mm]\nZ-probe offset y [mm]\nZ-probe X1 [mm]\nZ-probe Y1 [mm]\nZ-probe X2 [mm]\nZ-probe Y2 [mm]\nZ-probe X3 [mm]\nZ-probe Y3 [mm]\nZ-probe bending correction A [mm]\nZ-probe bending correction B [mm]\nZ-probe bending correction C [mm]\n\n\n\n\nStepper\n\n\nENABLE_BACKLASH_COMPENSATION\nALLOW_QUADSTEPPING\n\n\n\n\nEndstops\n\n\nENDSTOP_PULLUP_X_MIN/ENDSTOP_X_MIN_INVERTING\nENDSTOP_PULLUP_Y_MIN/ENDSTOP_Y_MIN_INVERTING\nENDSTOP_PULLUP_Z_MIN/ENDSTOP_Z_MIN_INVERTING\nENDSTOP_PULLUP_X_MAX/ENDSTOP_X_MAX_INVERTING\nENDSTOP_PULLUP_Y_MAX/ENDSTOP_Y_MAX_INVERTING\nENDSTOP_PULLUP_Z_MAX/ENDSTOP_Z_MAX_INVERTING\n\n\n\n\nFused Filament Fabrication\n\n\nEXTRUDER_SWITCH_XY_SPEED\n\n\n\n\nAlso, how do I find out which temperature sensors are being used for the extruders? Where are they located?\n\nHere's the EEPROM data:\n\n<Repetier-Firmware-EEPROM>\n<epr pos=\"\"1028\"\" type=\"\"0\"\" value=\"\"0\"\">Language</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"75\"\" type=\"\"2\"\" value=\"\"115200\"\">Baudrate</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"129\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"32.752\"\">Filament printed [m]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"125\"\" type=\"\"2\"\" value=\"\"21644\"\">Printer active [s]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"79\"\" type=\"\"2\"\" value=\"\"0\"\">Max. inactive time [ms,0=off]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"83\"\" type=\"\"2\"\" value=\"\"360000\"\">Stop stepper after inactivity [ms,0=off]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"11\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"80.0000\"\">Steps per mm</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"23\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"200.000\"\">Max. feedrate [mm/s]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"35\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"20.000\"\">Homing feedrate [mm/s]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"39\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"10.000\"\">Max. jerk [mm/s]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"133\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"-140.000\"\">X min pos [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"137\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"-140.000\"\">Y min pos [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"141\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"0.000\"\">Z min pos [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"145\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"140.000\"\">X max length [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"149\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"140.000\"\">Y max length [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"153\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"313.280\"\">Z max length [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"59\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"2000.000\"\">Acceleration [mm/s^2]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"71\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"2000.000\"\">Travel acceleration [mm/s^2]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"881\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"355.200\"\">Diagonal rod length [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"885\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"186.990\"\">Horizontal rod radius at 0,0 [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"925\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"140.000\"\">Max printable radius [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"891\"\" type=\"\"1\"\" value=\"\"70\"\">Segments/s for travel</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"889\"\" type=\"\"1\"\" value=\"\"180\"\">Segments/s for printing</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"893\"\" type=\"\"1\"\" value=\"\"0\"\">Tower X endstop offset [steps]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"895\"\" type=\"\"1\"\" value=\"\"0\"\">Tower Y endstop offset [steps]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"897\"\" type=\"\"1\"\" value=\"\"0\"\">Tower Z endstop offset [steps]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"901\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"210.000\"\">Alpha A(210):</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"905\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"330.000\"\">Alpha B(330):</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"909\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"90.000\"\">Alpha C(90):</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"913\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"0.000\"\">Delta Radius A(0):</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"917\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"0.000\"\">Delta Radius B(0):</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"921\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"0.000\"\">Delta Radius C(0):</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"933\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"0.000\"\">Corr. diagonal A [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"937\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"0.000\"\">Corr. diagonal B [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"941\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"0.000\"\">Corr. diagonal C [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"1024\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"1.000\"\">Coating thickness [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"808\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"0.800\"\">Z-probe height [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"929\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"10.000\"\">Max. z-probe - bed dist. [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"812\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"5.000\"\">Z-probe speed [mm/s]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"840\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"70.000\"\">Z-probe x-y-speed [mm/s]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"800\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"0.000\"\">Z-probe offset x [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"804\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"0.000\"\">Z-probe offset y [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"816\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"-95.260\"\">Z-probe X1 [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"820\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"-55.000\"\">Z-probe Y1 [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"824\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"95.260\"\">Z-probe X2 [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"828\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"-55.000\"\">Z-probe Y2 [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"832\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"0.000\"\">Z-probe X3 [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"836\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"110.000\"\">Z-probe Y3 [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"1036\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"0.000\"\">Z-probe bending correction A [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"1040\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"0.000\"\">Z-probe bending correction B [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"1044\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"0.000\"\">Z-probe bending correction C [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"880\"\" type=\"\"0\"\" value=\"\"1\"\">Autolevel active (1/0)</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"106\"\" type=\"\"0\"\" value=\"\"1\"\">Bed Heat Manager [0-3]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"107\"\" type=\"\"0\"\" value=\"\"255\"\">Bed PID drive max</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"124\"\" type=\"\"0\"\" value=\"\"80\"\">Bed PID drive min</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"108\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"196.000\"\">Bed PID P-gain</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"112\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"33.000\"\">Bed PID I-gain</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"116\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"290.000\"\">Bed PID D-gain</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"120\"\" type=\"\"0\"\" value=\"\"255\"\">Bed PID max value [0-255]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"1020\"\" type=\"\"0\"\" value=\"\"0\"\">Enable retraction conversion [0/1]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"992\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"3.000\"\">Retraction length [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"996\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"13.000\"\">Retraction length extruder switch [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"1000\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"40.000\"\">Retraction speed [mm/s]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"1004\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"0.000\"\">Retraction z-lift [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"1008\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"0.000\"\">Extra extrusion on undo retract [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"1012\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"0.000\"\">Extra extrusion on undo switch retract [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"1016\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"20.000\"\">Retraction undo speed</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"200\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"93.000\"\">Extr.1 steps per mm</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"204\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"150.000\"\">Extr.1 max. feedrate [mm/s]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"208\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"20.000\"\">Extr.1 start feedrate [mm/s]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"212\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"5000.000\"\">Extr.1 acceleration [mm/s^2]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"216\"\" type=\"\"0\"\" value=\"\"3\"\">Extr.1 heat manager [0-3]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"217\"\" type=\"\"0\"\" value=\"\"230\"\">Extr.1 PID drive max</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"245\"\" type=\"\"0\"\" value=\"\"40\"\">Extr.1 PID drive min</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"218\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"7.0000\"\">Extr.1 PID P-gain/dead-time</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"222\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"2.0000\"\">Extr.1 PID I-gain</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"226\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"40.0000\"\">Extr.1 PID D-gain</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"230\"\" type=\"\"0\"\" value=\"\"255\"\">Extr.1 PID max value [0-255]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"231\"\" type=\"\"2\"\" value=\"\"0\"\">Extr.1 X-offset [steps]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"235\"\" type=\"\"2\"\" value=\"\"0\"\">Extr.1 Y-offset [steps]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"290\"\" type=\"\"2\"\" value=\"\"0\"\">Extr.1 Z-offset [steps]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"239\"\" type=\"\"1\"\" value=\"\"1\"\">Extr.1 temp. stabilize time [s]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"250\"\" type=\"\"1\"\" value=\"\"150\"\">Extr.1 temp. for retraction when heating [C]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"252\"\" type=\"\"1\"\" value=\"\"0\"\">Extr.1 distance to retract when heating [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"254\"\" type=\"\"0\"\" value=\"\"255\"\">Extr.1 extruder cooler speed [0-255]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"300\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"93.000\"\">Extr.2 steps per mm</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"304\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"150.000\"\">Extr.2 max. feedrate [mm/s]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"308\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"20.000\"\">Extr.2 start feedrate [mm/s]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"312\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"5000.000\"\">Extr.2 acceleration [mm/s^2]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"316\"\" type=\"\"0\"\" value=\"\"3\"\">Extr.2 heat manager [0-3]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"317\"\" type=\"\"0\"\" value=\"\"230\"\">Extr.2 PID drive max</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"345\"\" type=\"\"0\"\" value=\"\"40\"\">Extr.2 PID drive min</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"318\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"7.0000\"\">Extr.2 PID P-gain/dead-time</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"322\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"2.0000\"\">Extr.2 PID I-gain</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"326\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"40.0000\"\">Extr.2 PID D-gain</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"330\"\" type=\"\"0\"\" value=\"\"255\"\">Extr.2 PID max value [0-255]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"331\"\" type=\"\"2\"\" value=\"\"0\"\">Extr.2 X-offset [steps]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"335\"\" type=\"\"2\"\" value=\"\"0\"\">Extr.2 Y-offset [steps]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"390\"\" type=\"\"2\"\" value=\"\"0\"\">Extr.2 Z-offset [steps]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"339\"\" type=\"\"1\"\" value=\"\"1\"\">Extr.2 temp. stabilize time [s]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"350\"\" type=\"\"1\"\" value=\"\"150\"\">Extr.2 temp. for retraction when heating [C]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"352\"\" type=\"\"1\"\" value=\"\"0\"\">Extr.2 distance to retract when heating [mm]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"354\"\" type=\"\"0\"\" value=\"\"255\"\">Extr.2 extruder cooler speed [0-255]</epr>\n\n\n\n\nSorry for the long, detailed and potentially frustrating question. I'm really new to this.\n\nEdit: To be more comprehensive, I'm including pictures of the controller boards.\n\n\n\n\n\nAlso, I've traced the printer down to a Taiwanese manufacturer: http://d-force.tw/\n\nThere are a few parts available: Hot-end PCB, Main controller board & Servo motor for calibration (Z-probe).\nI haven't been able to find the other board (with the HRD12008 SMPS on it and placed just beside the main controller board), yet.\n\nDoes this change things? If yes then how?\n\nI'm going ahead with burning a new firmware on the current board only because changing the board and shield combo seems too complicated to me. Is it though?\n\",Greenonline,\"Each of the settings have informative comments written just before the setting's #define, so reading those can point you in the right direction - if the required value doesn't jump out at you from your EEPROM settings.\n\nTaking an educated guess (and I could be wrong), and after looking at the comments, I would imagine that:\n\n\n\nGeneral and Dimensions:\n\n\nKILL_METHOD. From Repetier firmware configuration questions (prusa mendel)\n\n\n I would select the second kill method since it allows to continue with your printer after a crash.\n\n\nSo, you want to have\n\n#define KILL_METHOD 1\n\nNo idea, at the moment\nYou can either measure the height the carriage is from the floor, when the rod(s) is(are) horizontal, or just use the default 15 to be safe - it is probably best to double check this and physically measure it, to prevent any damage:\n\n// Margin (mm) to avoid above tower minimum (xMin xMinsteps)\n// If your printer can put its carriage low enough the rod is horizontal without hitting the floor\n// set this to zero. Otherwise, measure how high the carriage is from horizontal rod\n// Also, movement speeds are 10x to 20x cartesian speeds at tower bottom.\n// You may need to leave a few mm for safety.\n// Hitting floor at high speed can damage your printer (motors, drives, etc)\n// THIS MAY NEED UPDATING IF THE HOT END HEIGHT CHANGES!\n#define DELTA_FLOOR_SAFETY_MARGIN_MM 15\n\n\nDELTA_MAX_RADIUS use Max printable radius [mm]. \nThe values you have for Alpha A(210), Alpha B(330) & Alpha C(90) each, would be for:\n\n#define DELTA_ALPHA_A 210\n#define DELTA_ALPHA_B 330\n#define DELTA_ALPHA_C 90\n\n\n\nThe correction radii should be 0 and are the values you have for Delta Radius A(0), Delta Radius B(0) & Delta Radius C(0):\n\n/** Correct radius by this value for each column. \n Perfect builds have 0 everywhere. */\n#define DELTA_RADIUS_CORRECTION_A 0\n#define DELTA_RADIUS_CORRECTION_B 0\n#define DELTA_RADIUS_CORRECTION_C 0\n\nLikewise, given your EEPROM settings that you have listed the values you have for Corr. diagonal A[mm], Corr. diagonal B[mm] & Corr. diagonal C[mm]:\n\n/** Correction of the default diagonal size. Value gets added.*/\n#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_CORRECTION_A 0\n#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_CORRECTION_B 0\n#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_CORRECTION_C 0\n\n\n\n\n\n\nZ-correction (distortion correction)\n\n\nDISTORTION_START_DEGRADE - Initially, I would leave this at default. You can always tweak it at a later stage.\n\n/** z distortion degrades to 0 from this height on. You should start after the first layer to get\nbest bonding with surface. */\n#define DISTORTION_START_DEGRADE 0.5\n\nDISTORTION_END_HEIGHT - Initially, I would leave this at default. You can always tweak it at a later stage.\n\n/** z distortion correction gets down to 0 at this height. */\n#define DISTORTION_END_HEIGHT 1.5\n\nDISTORTION_CORRECTION_R - Initially, I would leave this at default. You can always tweak it at a later stage.\n\n/* For delta printers you simply define the measured radius around origin */\n#define DISTORTION_CORRECTION_R 80\n\nDISTORTION_UPDATE_FREQUENCY - For the moment, I would leave this at default. As the comments remark, this is computationally intensive, and will use a lot of processing power - power that you want to keep for controlling the motors. SO, it is best to not make this frequency too high.\n\n/** Correction computation is not a cheap operation and changes are only small. So it\nis not necessary to update it for every sub-line computed. For example lets take DELTA_SEGMENTS_PER_SECOND_PRINT = 150\nand fastest print speed 100 mm/s. So we have a maximum segment length of 100/150 = 0.66 mm.\nNow lats say our point field is 200 x 200 mm with 9 x 9 points. So between 2 points we have\n200 / (9-1) = 25 mm. So we need at least 25 / 0.66 = 37 lines to move to the next measuring\npoint. So updating correction every 15 calls gives us at least 2 updates between the\nmeasured points.\nNOTE: Explicit z changes will always trigger an update!\n*/\n#define DISTORTION_UPDATE_FREQUENCY 15\n\n\n\n\n\nStepper\n\n\nENABLE_BACKLASH_COMPENSATION - As stated, it is rarely needed, so leave it set to 0\n\n/* If you have a backlash in both z-directions, you can use this. For most printer, the bed will be pushed down by it's\nown weight, so this is nearly never needed. */\n#define ENABLE_BACKLASH_COMPENSATION 0\n\nALLOW_QUADSTEPPING - Do you need high frequencies? This could be a case of leaving set to the default of 1, and if you experience stalling then set to 0 to see if it cures the stalling\n\n/** If you need frequencies off more then 30000 you definitely need to enable this. If you have only 1/8 stepping\nenabling this may cause to stall your moves when 20000Hz is reached.\n*/\n#define ALLOW_QUADSTEPPING 1\n\n\n\n\n\nEndstops\n\n\nENDSTOP_PULLUP_X_MIN/ENDSTOP_X_MIN_INVERTING - these are relatively easy. From the comment for ENDSTOP_X_MIN_INVERTING \n\n/* By default all endstops are pulled up to HIGH. You need a pull-up if you\nuse a mechanical endstop connected with GND. Set value to false for no pull-up\non this endstop.\n*/\n\n\nA pullup refers to a pull-up resistor. This is, in this case, a piece of circuitry in the MicroController Unit (MCU) (i.e. the Arduino chip[ATmega 2560] on the controller board. This #define allows you to enable, or disable, it for each input connected to an endstop. Basically, they stop short circuits between the power supply and ground - they do more than that but... You probably need the MAX endstops enabled, where you actually have an endstop. If there are no MIN endstops, i.e. at the bottom of the rails, then these can be set to false.\n\n#define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_X_MIN false\n#define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_Y_MIN false\n#define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_Z_MIN false\n#define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_X_MAX true\n#define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_Y_MAX true\n#define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_Z_MAX true\n\n\nENDSTOP_X_MIN_INVERTING this merely allows you to invert the input from the endstop. For example, if the endstop is triggered by a vertical carriage, then the switch will \"\"close\"\". If, instead, the code is actually looking for an \"\"open\"\" switch, rather than a \"\"closed\"\" switch, when the endstop switch is being triggered by the vertical carriage hitting it, then you simply need to invert it.\n\n//set to true to invert the logic of the endstops\n#define ENDSTOP_X_MIN_INVERTING true\n#define ENDSTOP_Y_MIN_INVERTING true\n#define ENDSTOP_Z_MIN_INVERTING true\n#define ENDSTOP_X_MAX_INVERTING false\n#define ENDSTOP_Y_MAX_INVERTING false\n#define ENDSTOP_Z_MAX_INVERTING false\n\n\n\n\n\nFused Filament Fabrication\n\n\nEXTRUDER_SWITCH_XY_SPEED - Probably best to leave as default, 100, and tweak later, if need be\n\n/* Speed in mm/s for extruder moves fom internal commands, e.g. switching extruder. */\n#define EXTRUDER_SWITCH_XY_SPEED 100\n\n\n\n\n\nWith respect to the temperature sensor settings on the extruder (read: hotend), from Repetier-Firmware Documentation:\n\n\n#define EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE 5 \n\n \n What temperature sensor are you using in the extruder. The configuration file lists possible values\n and meanings.\n\n#define EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_PIN 0\n\n \n This parameter is tricky and often causes wrong configurations. For historical reasons it is named PIN\n but it IS NOT A PIN NUMBER. It is the position in an array of analog\n input sources. In this array, the real pin number is stored. In 99.9%\n 0 is the correct answer here.\n\n#define EXT0_HEATER_PIN HEATER_0_PIN\n\n \n Which pin enables the heater block. It works with any pin. PWM capability is not required to use\n PID on an output.\n\n\nFor EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE, the temperature sensor is \"\"buried' inside the hotend heater block, and as such it is probably not going to be easy, nor desirable, to remove and examine - although it is certainly possible to do so, if you feel up to the job. If could be just a question of trial-and-error. You have eight, or so, to choose from. However, the 100k thermistor is one of the most common types, and so 1 would seem like a good setting to choose, initially:\n\n// What type of sensor is used?\n// 0 is no thermistor/temperature control\n// 1 is 100k thermistor (Epcos B57560G0107F000 - RepRap-Fab.org and many other)\n// 2 is 200k thermistor\n// 3 is mendel-parts thermistor (EPCOS G550)\n// 4 is 10k thermistor\n// 8 is ATC Semitec 104GT-2\n// 12 is 100k RS thermistor 198-961\n// 13 is PT100 for E3D/Ultimaker\n// 14 is 100K NTC 3950\n// 5 is userdefined thermistor table 0\n// 6 is userdefined thermistor table 1\n// 7 is userdefined thermistor table 2\n// 50 is userdefined thermistor table 0 for PTC thermistors\n// 51 is userdefined thermistor table 0 for PTC thermistors\n// 52 is userdefined thermistor table 0 for PTC thermistors\n// 60 is AD8494, AD8495, AD8496 or AD8497 (5mV/degC and 1/4 the price of AD595 but only MSOT_08 package)\n// 61 is AD8494, AD8495, AD8496 or AD8497 (5mV/degC and 1.25 Vref offset like adafruit breakout)\n// 97 Generic thermistor table 1\n// 98 Generic thermistor table 2\n// 99 Generic thermistor table 3\n// 100 is AD595\n// 101 is MAX6675\n// 102 is MAX31855\n#define EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE 1\n\n\nAs the Repetier documentation states, in 99.9% of the cases, for EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_PIN a value of 0 will probably work. If it does not, then you may need to change this to some other value.\n\nFor EXT0_HEATER_PIN HEATER_0_PIN, just follow the wiring of your printer, and see which pin the heater is connected to.\n\n\n\nWhere and how to change the settings\n\nYou are probably aware of this already, but in case you aren't...\n\nOnce you have downloaded Repetier-Firmware-master.zip from Github.com: repetier/Repetier-Firmware, and unzipped it, then you will need to edit the files in Configuration.h in the src/ArduinoAVR/Repetier directory. Note that the ArduinoAVR directory is used for the Arduino Mega 2560 board, and its derivatives.\n\nOpen Repetier.ino in the Arduino IDE, and edit Configuration.h in the Arduino IDE. You could also edit Configuration.h in your favourite plain text editor, if need be, but it is probably easier, and simpler to do everything in the Arduino IDE.\n\nOnce you have edited the settings that you require, as I described in Help with Repetier firmware (probably locked and licensed), compile and upload the firmware to your board. Then run a print. If something seems to be incorrectly set, stop the print. Then re-tweak your settings ad compile and upload again, and then run another test print. Ad infinitum...\n\nAfter a few iterations, you should be quite comfortable with this process, and end up with a well calibrated printer.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4213,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ojasvi Srivastava,1.0891412423578797,4.557473481130508,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Building new Repetier firmware for a delta printer (D-force),\"So my printer's calibration got screwed after a sudden reboot and since the current firmware (0.92.6) is licensed, I cannot edit it. So I'm building a new one.\n\nThese are the controller boards of my printer:\n\n1. Main controller board:\n\n\n\nThe black board is a MKS Base v1.3\n\nThe other green board beside it has a DC to DC SMPS (HRD12008) on it, along with Z-min, X-min, T0, Fan-, D11 and a flat ribbon wire connector (can be seen in the picture).\n\nThe other box with an acrylic top is a solid state relay.\n\n\n\n2. Cooling fan and Z-probe PCB:\n\n\n\n\n\nThe brand on all these boards is \"\"D-force\"\". I've traced the printer down to a Taiwanese manufacturer: D-FORCE.TW - 3D Printer.\n\nThere are a few parts available: \n\n\nFan & Z-probe PCB;\nMain controller board, and;\nServo motor for calibration (Z-probe).\n\n\nI haven't been able to find the other green board (with the HRD12008 SMPS on it), yet.\n\nI've downloaded a new firmware from Repetier website. It can be found here, Repetier-Firmware-2017-06-09.\n\nNow, while compiling the firmware, I need to specify the Z-probe pin. I'm unable to do so because it's not plugged into the main board.\n\nHere is a close-up of the Z-probe & the servo motor that pins it down.\n\n\n\nAny help would be appreciated here. On the web these printers are known as \"\"D-force printers\"\".\n\nEdit1: I found this on the manufacturer's Facebook group:\n\n\n\nPlease note that this is v1.1 and my printer has v1.3 although I haven't found any difference between the two, yet. I'll update on that if I find any. Hope this helps.\n\nEdit2: The Y-min pin on the main controller board is empty. The X-min and Z-min are connected to the X-min and Z-min on the additional green board respectively. Also, there is a T0 on the additional board which is connected to A13 of the main controller.\n\",Greenonline,\"You, obviously, do actually have a Z-probe, but in case another user does not, or you decide not to use yours, I will cover both cases (with and without a Z-probe).\n\nZ-probe not present\n\nIf not, then in configuration.h set the FEATURE_Z_PROBE to false, like this: \n\n#define FEATURE_Z_PROBE false\n\n\nor \n\n#define FEATURE_Z_PROBE 0. \n\n\nThen you also need to set \n\n#define DISTORTION_CORRECTION 0\n\n\nas this requires the FEATURE_Z_PROBE if otherwise set to 1 or true. However, thereafter, upon recompilation, I then get a lot of other errors... but these seem to be more to do with selecting the correct board, #define MOTHERBOARD, in pins.h, than the disabling of the Z-probe. This error:\n\nfastio.h:29: error: 'DIOORIG_FAN2_PIN_WPORT' was not declared in this scope\n\n\nis due to, from Can't compile firmware:\n\n\n You are using ORIG_FAN2_PIN in your configuration but apparently your boards pin definition does not define that pin. In that case check board description and use the digital pin number instead for that function.\n\n\nActually that is not entirely true1.\n\nNOTE: It might be easier to just define Z_PROBE_PIN to something other than -1, which is what it is defaulting to, as set in configuration.h:\n\n#define Z_PROBE_PIN -1\n\n\nZ-probe present\n\nIf you do have a Z-probe, then trace the wires to see where they go on the controller board, determine that pin number on the board and then enter that pin number into configuration.h. For example, if it is connected to pin 63, then:\n\n#define Z_PROBE_PIN 63\n\n\nand leave DISTORTION_CORRECTION untouched.\n\nWhere to plug the Z-probe in\n\nIf your Z-probe has become unplugged, then you need to choose a pin to connect it to. This is easy... you simply connect it to any free pin. Now, you probably only have three end stops, at the top of the delta frame. These are the MAX end stops. So, you can simply connect the Z-probe to any of the three MIN end stop pins, on the board. Obviously, you will leave the three #defines for the MIN end stop, in Configuration.h, un-configured, and then specify the pin, that you did use, in \n\n#define Z_PROBE_PIN <your pin>\n\n\nSee Is there a complete step by step manual for building Z probe - comment 1950\n\n\n Put the zprobe on any free pin you have but do NOT set it in endstops. It is not a endstop it is a zprobe.\n \n Then set it in zprobe section with pullup enabled so it is drawn to high internally until you connect the pin with gnd. Then G31 should also be consistent. I guess you missed the pullup part making it a random result.\n\n\nand Is there a complete step by step manual for building Z probe - Comment_1952\n\n\n Not sure why this is a problem. You have 6 endstop pins and need 3 for\n endstops + 1 for zprobe = 4 pins. Still 2 endstop pins free.\n \n When I said not in endstops I meant not in the endstop configuration.\n There you only put switches that work as endstop.\n\n\nHighlighting the connections\n\nThe green PCB, for the fan and Z-probe, does not appear to have any logic on it (I can't see any), so it is just a collection of tracks (i.e. wires). As there are no logic chips on it, you can trace the circuit from the Z-probe to the controller (either visually, or using a multimeter set on continuity check). I assume that the PCB is connected to the controller board somewhere/somehow... Via the 10 wire grey ribbon cable that goes to the second green PCB next to the main board, next to LED3, as shown in the first photo? This ribbon cable transfers signals to/from the Z-probe/fan PCB to the secondary PCB, which appears to be a power related PCB (i.e. heaters). Somehow the secondary, power, PCB then connects to the main controller board.\n\nOne of the three unused MINIMUM end stop pins should be used for the Z-probe. This is assuming that:\n\n\nyou only have three physical end stops (at the top of the three axes) and;\nthey are connected to the MAXIMUM end stop pins. \n\n\nIf you have six end stops, (one at the top and one at the bottom), then that changes things drastically. Assuming that you only have three, then the three unused MINIMUM pins will be used for some other purposes (Z-probe, servo arm, something else?).\n\nYou need to confirm that you only have end stops at the top of the printer and not the bottom, i.e. only MAX_ENDSTOP (or X+, Y+ and Z+) pins. If so, then you should have three (sets of) (MIN_ENDSTOP) pins with nothing connected to them (in theory). So, one of those three MIN_ENDSTOP pins will have the Z-probe connected to it. If you are having trouble locating the MIN_ENDSTOP pins, trace where the 3 physical (MAX) end stops are connected to, those will be the MAX_ENDSTOP pins. Then from that, the MIN_ENDSTOP pins should be relatively easy to identify. Hopefully that makes sense.\n\nLooking at the schema then it becomes obvious. You see X+, X-, Y+, Y-, Z+ and Z-. The physical endstops should be connected to the three + connectors. The three - connectors: two of them are hopefully not connected. The one that is should be the Z-probe. Looking at the photo, unfortunately, it seems as if all six (or just five?) are populated. \n\nPersonally, to save time, I would get a multimeter, unplug the X, Y, Z +/- connectors (actually only the - connectors) in turn and test each one, to see which is connected to the Z-probe.\n\nTo check the correct pin is used, you really only have two (sensible) options: either visually, or; multimeter. Multimeter would be best, and the most certain. However, there are two other options open to you (one risky, and one laborious):\n\n\nAs we have whittled it down to two connectors (X-min and Z-min, there are only two pins (for the Z-probe and servo) to worry about, you only have a 50-50 chance of getting it wrong, so you could guess, code it up and see if it works - if it doesn't, then change the pin defined, and recompile...\n\nIMPORTANT: After a rethink, it is best not to just take the 50-50 chance, as the servo pin is probably configured as an output and the Z-probe pin will be an input. You could end up damaging the control board.\nFinally, you could, in theory, test it programmatically, but that would require writing some test code for the controller, which (as we are having enough trouble as it is with the configuration.h file) would be a nightmare, to put it bluntly.\n\n\nSchema\n\n\n\nPhoto of control board\n\n\n\n\n\nIt is probably a good idea to read this, lengthly, article: Repetier - Z-probing.\n\n\n\nFootnotes\n\n1 I have finally managed to get Repetier.ino to compile. The problem lay with the Configuration.h file that came with the googledrive download, that you provided. Trying to either manually configure Configuration.h, or pre-loading it into Repetier's configuration tool, always resulted in the same compilation error, see DIOORIG_FAN2_PIN_WPORT error. The simplest solution is to create a Configuration.h file from new, using the Configuration tool. When you do that, it will compile ok. \n\nOr, if you really want to do it manually, either:\n\n\nSet NUM_EXTRUDER to 1 and not 2 as the FAN2 compile error comes from the second extruder's set of #defines, or;\nMore precisely, if you do have two extruders, then change the line #define EXT1_EXTRUDER_COOLER_PIN ORIG_FAN2_PIN and specify a pin, i.e. 65, en lieu of using ORIG_FAN2_PIN.\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n4153,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Davide,2.1782824847157594,5.735712991465274,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Help understanding bridge settings,\"I can't understand how to best tune my slicer settings in order to get better bridges...\n\nI've downloaded a simple test off thingiverse and printed at different speeds.\n\nHere are the results, bridging tests (youtube link).\n\nOn the left we can see that going at a slow (10 mm/s) speed results in a very poor first layer.\n\nOn the right at Slic3r Auto setting which I believe is 60 mm/s is better but there are still a few strings hanging...\n\nThe middle one is printed at 30 mm/s and looks the best.\n\nOn the one hand I was expecting faster = better because the plastic wouldn't have time to fall, but I once saw a video somewhere off a printer bridging at 10 mm/s and it came out flawless!\n\nSo I decided to do some testing of my own and now I'm more confused than before.\n\nWhy did the 30 mm/s turn out better than the others and how can I improve my bridging?\n\",Ecnerwal,\"The engineering approach is that if 30mm/s is working best on your equipment (at least on that day), you should use it; at least until it doesn't work so well for you. You might also try more different speeds (closer to 30 than to 10 or the assumed 60) in case one works even better than 30mm/s - though you might also want to question the assumed 60 (or test a set 60) since assumptions can bite you.\n\nThere's not going to be a fixed speed that's always best independent of the printer - everything is dependent on the printer, and its environment - if the temperature of the room varies a lot, it could change the \"\"best setting\"\" on days of different room temperatures. Perhaps the \"\"10mm/s\"\" that you saw working well was using a more effective cooling fan while bridging, or had other differences from your particular unit - or had different settings (other than speed - nozzle temperature, for instance) which impacted the result.\n\n(note that I have limited tolerance for videos, and have not actually looked at yours, so if you're going to come back with \"\"but I don't have a cooling fan\"\", please post a picture of the printer or results that does not involve needing to sit through a video. And perhaps add a cooling fan...)\n\nAs for \"\"understanding how to best tune your slicer settings\"\" - far more testing, and keep track of the results. So, do tests (without altering other parameters) at 20, 25, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55 mm/s.\n\nDepending on the results of those tests, say you find the best results at 35-40mm/s, perhaps you try 47 and compare that. Perhaps there's no real difference between the 3, so it's in that range, but not picky. \n\nThen alter one other thing (nozzle temperature comes to mind first, but perhaps it's \"\"fan speed for bridging\"\" or some other, single, item) and do more testing - likely the best speed will change, so you'll need to re-run a range of speeds at the new setting. And keep track of which results (test prints) go with which settings, so you can go back to the ones that work best. Then alter that parameter more, or alter another parameter. \n\nFor the most part, there comes a point where it's good enough, or at least where you're sick of testing for a while and results are good enough until you want to test / tune some more.\n\nIf you change many things at once, it's hard to isolate cause and effect. If you test many settings but lose track of which settings were used for what result, it can be hard to progess towards better results consistently. When you find a range that seems to make no difference (and it's as good as it gets), be happy that the parameter is not too sensitive, and tend towards the middle of it.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4154,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user_fs10,3.0576060275493275,5.978730247729619,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,4.376800063013361,2.6553159206313057,Servo vs Stepper,\"I'm a new one for this community.\nThis also not directly related with 3D printing.\nI searched about this and I couldn't find good answer.\n\nOne of my friends told me CNC machining centers (Milling) mostly use servo motors and CNC laser cutter and plasma cutters use stepper motors mostly.\n\nPosition controlling is more accurate in servo motors than steppers.\n\nI think position controlling is more important in laser and plasma cutters than CNC machining centers, but laser and plasma cutters use stepper motors.\n\nWhy do laser and plasma cutters use steppers without using servo motors?\n\nP.S.\nThis question has more area than 3D printing and CNC routing.And also, This question asked for more reason for why use steppers in laser cutters,plasma cutters and CNC router.SO, this is not a duplicate of this one.\n\",markshancock,\"Servos do have several advantages; but, they are more expensive and more difficult to control.\n\nGenerally, a servo motor is a DC motor but with an encoder to provide position feedback. A circuit (can be a computer) then compares the actual position (from the encoder) against the commanded position and uses the error to determine how much power to put to the motor (usually by PWM). \n\nSome of the advantages of servos:\n\n\nThe encoders on the motor often have thousands of counts per revolution so they are accurate.\nThey are a great choice for controlling a large mass. When beginning a motion, the control loop can detect that more power is required when the encoder does not respond as fast as expected thus putting more power to the motor. This will them automatically reduce as the motor reaches speed and no longer needs the acceleration torque. Also, the servo loop can also apply reverse torque when trying to slow down the large mass to limit overshot.\n\n\nSome of the disadvantages of servos:\n\n\nThe DC Motors used for servos reach peak power at thousands of RPM. That means to use them on a printer you will need to gear them down. This adds to the expense.\nYou need electronics to PWM the power to the DC Motor and to close the servo loop (usually at least 1 KHz). This can require a lot of the CPU. Probably would be more than a Melzi could do since it is already maxed out.\nThe servo loop tuning can cause the motor to buzz when it is holding position on an unloaded axis. This could cause print issues.\n\n\nI know you have likely seen cheap servos out there often called \"\"hobby servos\"\". These are often used in RC. These use a creative trick that allows them to use a cheap potentiometer to create an inexpensive control loop. The limit to this \"\"trick\"\" is that it CAN NOT rotate a full 360°; thus, it CAN NOT run a continuous axis. Yes, I know there are hobby servos out there that are called continuous rotation servos; but, they do that by disconnecting the potentiometer. In that case they are no longer servos. This is just a way to use the same control interface to control a standard DC motor and the motors are not accurate.\n\nStepper motors on the other hand:\n\n\nAre really cheap;\nDon't require complicated drive circuits or control loops;\nLove to hold position without a load.\n\n\nTheir downside is that their rotational accuracy is limited by the physical poles of the motor. This can be improved using micro-stepping; but, there are limits. Also, it is difficult (often impractical) to determine if the motor missed a step. That can usually be handled by just making sure that the load on the motor is always well below the step torque. This often involves managing the motor acceleration.\n\nIn summary, servos are great for some applications; but, for low cost situations like 3D printing, steppers are hard to beat. It is likely servos needed for milling CNCs because the cutting head is much more massive than an extruder or laser and the servo control loop is needed to provide accurate motion for the higher mass.\n\",3.7511513460834345,2.0769199823829045\n4154,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user_fs10,3.0576060275493275,5.978730247729619,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,4.376800063013361,2.6553159206313057,Servo vs Stepper,\"I'm a new one for this community.\nThis also not directly related with 3D printing.\nI searched about this and I couldn't find good answer.\n\nOne of my friends told me CNC machining centers (Milling) mostly use servo motors and CNC laser cutter and plasma cutters use stepper motors mostly.\n\nPosition controlling is more accurate in servo motors than steppers.\n\nI think position controlling is more important in laser and plasma cutters than CNC machining centers, but laser and plasma cutters use stepper motors.\n\nWhy do laser and plasma cutters use steppers without using servo motors?\n\nP.S.\nThis question has more area than 3D printing and CNC routing.And also, This question asked for more reason for why use steppers in laser cutters,plasma cutters and CNC router.SO, this is not a duplicate of this one.\n\",morevitamins,\"Servo is best when you primarily provide an exact position to go to, sounds like a human arm isn't it? However, number of positions is sometimes overwhelming.\n\nThink about a painting, is it easier to draw point by point or just throwing the pencil relatively with instincts? That is why you need less computing when using stepper motors because they just step locally without worrying about the overall painting. Having said that, it is more costly for a stepper motor to travel far distances because it has to think about its every step.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4158,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Avshalom Mizrahi,3.0576060275493275,5.175376175012084,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Prusa i3 Z axis only goes down (even on up command),\"I have just finished building a Tronxy P802M Prusa i3.\n\nWhen I try to move the Z-axis, using the hardware buttons in the LCD menu (without a computer connected), it only goes down, when I both increase, and decrease, the value of Z.\n\nAny suggestions?\n\",Greenonline,\"It could be a hardware fault. \n\nFirst check, and compare, the control board connections to the motors of the three axes. You don't state it in your question but, presumably, the X and Y axes move correctly? If so, then compare the connections for the Z-axis motors with the connections for the motors of the axes that work as expected.\n\nIf they are correct then the problem is likely to be with the firmware.\n\nHave you...\n\n\nhomed the Z-axis yet?\ninstalled the endstops?\n\n\nFrom X Y Z axis only move one direction?:\n\n\n Using Marlin? Before you do a G28 homing the axes will only move\n towards the endstops. But also check your endstops with M119 to make\n sure they are triggered at the right time. On older Marlin, you may\n need to set DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS (on a machine that has no max\n endstops). Newer Marlin uses USE_XMIN_PLUG, etc., to specifically\n set which endstops are connected. If the switches show the opposite\n state (off when triggered) then set the\n [XYZ]_(MIN|MAX)_ENDSTOP_INVERTING flags, as needed.\n\n\nLikewise, from Building a Prusa I3 3D Printer:\n\n\n You will probably also find the motor will turn only in one direction. This is normal for now as we don't have end-stops installed and haven't homed the axis - so the software doesn't know how far it can go in one direction or the other.\n\n\n\n\nAs Mark states in his comment, the P802M uses a Melzi board. From Github: Repetier-Firmware/boards/Zonestar P802M/:\n\n\n There are some printers sold under different names like 'Zonestar\n P802M', 'Prusa i3 P802M DIY kit', 'Anet A8-B', etc, which have LCD\n 20x4 with 5 keys controller connected to Melzi V2.0 board via 10 wires\n cable. Keys are connected to a single analog input using resistive\n divider.\n\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n4158,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Avshalom Mizrahi,3.0576060275493275,5.175376175012084,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Prusa i3 Z axis only goes down (even on up command),\"I have just finished building a Tronxy P802M Prusa i3.\n\nWhen I try to move the Z-axis, using the hardware buttons in the LCD menu (without a computer connected), it only goes down, when I both increase, and decrease, the value of Z.\n\nAny suggestions?\n\",Avshalom Mizrahi,\"Thank you guys, it took me a while but it was a faulty cable, \nOne stepper motor worked but the other did not. But, apparently, both have to work for even one to turn. \n\nThe cable had one wire isolation still in place, so there was no connection from the board to the stepper. \n\nI also had another cable with the wires connected in the wrong order, as well. \n\nBottom line - it is working. And printing well. \n\nNow it seems like I have problem with the z-sensor (stopped working after a few hours of printing). But I'll figure it out tomorrow. \n\nThank you for your help.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4164,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Viktor Hedefalk,1.0891412423578797,4.128910781959917,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,\"Cura grey large grey area, almost nothing fits…\",\"I can't seem to understand the margins that Cura uses or how to fix them for my machine. Look at this:\n\n\n\nI can't seem to tweak the stuff under machine settings to anything that does this better:\n\n\n\nMaybe a bit of dup of Cura not allowing full print area to used, but I think my case is a lot worse and can't be explained by skirts.\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"That looks like you've got the \"\"brim\"\" set to a very wide value. I know you said it's not explained by skirts --which, as Greenonline pointed out, is not the same as a brim--, but you didn't post that setting. At the same time, make sure you don't have a 'raft' set up. \n\nOne other possibility is that your source file actually contains a very large first layer. Try looking at the STL file in Meshlab or Meshmixer to see what's actually there.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4164,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Viktor Hedefalk,1.0891412423578797,4.128910781959917,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,\"Cura grey large grey area, almost nothing fits…\",\"I can't seem to understand the margins that Cura uses or how to fix them for my machine. Look at this:\n\n\n\nI can't seem to tweak the stuff under machine settings to anything that does this better:\n\n\n\nMaybe a bit of dup of Cura not allowing full print area to used, but I think my case is a lot worse and can't be explained by skirts.\n\",Viktor Hedefalk,\"I had mistakenly left the setting \"\"one at a time\"\" in print sequence. This meaning the printhead needs a lot of room since it will go back and forth in z.\n\nCura allocates this extra space even if there's only one object.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n4165,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Satellite Icarus,1.726248027126092,3.372103450567224,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,\"Monitoring X, Y, Z position of extruder in real time\",\"I have a wooden first generation Replicator with dual extruders and I'm trying to get an X, Y, Z position from the printer to the computer in real time. Is that even possible? \n\nThe firmware used by the replicator is version 5.5 I believe, and I've been doing tests with ReplicatorG but I'm not married to that software.\n\nPlease let me know if you need any extra info before being able to comment on this... \n\",Ecnerwal,\"Depending on your methods, you can easily (evidently) get (or compute) \"\"where the printhead is commanded to be\"\" in more-or-less real time, as evidenced by the \"\"progress display\"\" in Repetier Host software (based off the G-Code it's sending to the printer) - though I have found it advisable to stick with the temperature display while printing as I've had the host bog down on processing the display at least once, which then made the print go slow.\n\nAs for \"\"is it even possible\"\" - sure, how much would you like to spend? Add encoders to each axis that are read by the computer, or by something (probably not your printer processor for \"\"least impact on the printing\"\" and \"\"most real-time\"\") that reads them and talks to the computer. The more precise you need, the more expensive it gets. Of course that also starts to probe 'what you mean by \"\"real time\"\" ?' as there are applications where the time spent reading the encoder and sending/receiving the data would be considered \"\"not real-time\"\" by the time the computer had the data, but for the average person with a printer built partly from wood, it's likely \"\"real-time enough.\"\"\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4165,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Satellite Icarus,1.726248027126092,3.372103450567224,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,\"Monitoring X, Y, Z position of extruder in real time\",\"I have a wooden first generation Replicator with dual extruders and I'm trying to get an X, Y, Z position from the printer to the computer in real time. Is that even possible? \n\nThe firmware used by the replicator is version 5.5 I believe, and I've been doing tests with ReplicatorG but I'm not married to that software.\n\nPlease let me know if you need any extra info before being able to comment on this... \n\",rkwadd,\"There is an open source MTConnect adapter/agent written in Python for MakerBot Replicator that includes axis position. To my knowledge it was only developed for and tested on a Replicator 2, though.\n\nhttps://github.com/mtconnect/makerbot_agent\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4177,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Evan Weber,1.726248027126092,6.137772007456259,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.551027839747059,Dual extruder setup in Marlin,\"I have a Tevo Tarantula with a MKS Base 1.5 board and dual extruders. I am running Marlin RC8 Tevo Community build for the dual extruder, large bed and SN04 sensor. \n\nAll temperature sensors work and give accurate reading but E1 when activated runs at 100% until the overtemps kicks in and shuts down the system. Like I said, it reads proper temperatures through the thermistor it just won’t stop at the set temperature. I checked the MOSFET and there is no obvious scorching or bad solder joints on the MKS board. This leads me to believe it is a mix-up in firmware but, being a bit of a newbie on this, I am still getting familiar with G-code and Marlin.\n\nI have confirmed the correct board is being referenced in firmware from boards.h but looking at configuration.h I just get confused. What I am thinking is somehow/somewhere E1 might be referenced as a fan that is just off or on. Anybody have ideas?\n\",markshancock,\"I am not sure what the hardware config is for the Tevo Tarantula\n\nMake sure your configuration.h file is setup for your hardware.\nThe extruder defines are describe in Conditional_LCD.h\n\nIt looks like the configuration.h file on GitHub is configured for a single extruder.\n\nFor example, if you have 2 hotends; but, \"\"HOTENDS=2\"\" is not set then the I/O will not be configured for the 2nd hotend. I just looked at the code and if HOTENDS == 1 then the MOSFET_D_PIN will be used to control FAN1 (which sounds very similar to what you are describing that you are seeing).\n\n #if HOTENDS == 1\n #define FAN1_PIN MOSFET_D_PIN\n #else\n #define HEATER_1_PIN MOSFET_D_PIN\n #endif\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4177,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Evan Weber,1.726248027126092,6.137772007456259,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.551027839747059,Dual extruder setup in Marlin,\"I have a Tevo Tarantula with a MKS Base 1.5 board and dual extruders. I am running Marlin RC8 Tevo Community build for the dual extruder, large bed and SN04 sensor. \n\nAll temperature sensors work and give accurate reading but E1 when activated runs at 100% until the overtemps kicks in and shuts down the system. Like I said, it reads proper temperatures through the thermistor it just won’t stop at the set temperature. I checked the MOSFET and there is no obvious scorching or bad solder joints on the MKS board. This leads me to believe it is a mix-up in firmware but, being a bit of a newbie on this, I am still getting familiar with G-code and Marlin.\n\nI have confirmed the correct board is being referenced in firmware from boards.h but looking at configuration.h I just get confused. What I am thinking is somehow/somewhere E1 might be referenced as a fan that is just off or on. Anybody have ideas?\n\",Jason,\"I had a similar problem, my documentation was wrong and the heater & thermistor were wired in backwards. Maybe recheck your wiring and even try reversing the temp sensor on your board.\n\",0.0,0.0\n4180,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,MrGlass,2.528907649931287,4.376775599610133,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.488653845767225,What tweaks do slicers use to get rafts to stick?,\"I've always had trouble getting prints to stick directly on my bed, but had great reliability when use rafts. This didn't present a problem when I was using PLA, but I recently got a roll of PETG and it is very hard to remove rafts, so I am once again trying to figure out whats wrong.\n\nI am printing the same file (currently a simple square for testing) with the same settings, except I am turning rafts on/off. When rafts are on, my print sticks perfectly. When rafts are off, my print doesn't stick at all - not even the skirt (which sticks fine on the raft print). With rafts on, I can watch my printer lay down a nice line for the skirt / first layer. With rafts off, I watched plastic ooze out of the nozzle and ride along with the print head, not sticking to the plate at all.\n\nI have a stock Monoprice Maker Select v2 with the PEI surface it shipped with. I haven't tried any bed additions/changes to get better adhesion, since I know rafts stick fine with what I have. I figure there must be some settings I can change to make my first layer stick too. I am using Simplify3D & have tried a few basic tweaks, but I am largely stabbing in the dark.\n\nWhat are the specific characteristics of a first layer raft, in comparison to a first layer of my print, that might make it stick better?\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"You could experiment with the 'cleaning' part of the startup gcode shown here\n\nG1 X100 Y0 F4000 ; move half way along the front edge\nG1 Z1 ; move nozzle close to bed\nM109 S200 ; heat nozzle to 200 degC and wait until reached\nG4 P10000 ; wait 10 seconds for nozzle length to stabilize\nG1 E10 ; extrude 10 mm of filament\nG1 z15 F12000 E5 ; move 15 mm up, fast, while extruding 5mm\nG92 E0 ; reset extruder\n\n\nI'm not completely persuaded that it helps a lot, but the idea is to fill the extruder (with some pressure from the bed at a 1mm gap) right before starting the skirt. Typically, I still find the first line of skirt may be quite blobby, but a 2nd line of skirt seems much better. Obviously you need the bed alignment right too. A raft seems to have enough 'extra' extrusion to mask these issues a little bit.\n\nLater reflection suggests that these introductory G-code snippets (I've now started using the PRUSA one of a line along the edge of the bed) risk problems with flexible filament, so it might be best to err on the side of conservative for the extrude volume rather than assume that more is better here.\n\nYou can find other similar solutions in this question: Writing G-code : swiping at start of print\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n4180,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,MrGlass,2.528907649931287,4.376775599610133,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.488653845767225,What tweaks do slicers use to get rafts to stick?,\"I've always had trouble getting prints to stick directly on my bed, but had great reliability when use rafts. This didn't present a problem when I was using PLA, but I recently got a roll of PETG and it is very hard to remove rafts, so I am once again trying to figure out whats wrong.\n\nI am printing the same file (currently a simple square for testing) with the same settings, except I am turning rafts on/off. When rafts are on, my print sticks perfectly. When rafts are off, my print doesn't stick at all - not even the skirt (which sticks fine on the raft print). With rafts on, I can watch my printer lay down a nice line for the skirt / first layer. With rafts off, I watched plastic ooze out of the nozzle and ride along with the print head, not sticking to the plate at all.\n\nI have a stock Monoprice Maker Select v2 with the PEI surface it shipped with. I haven't tried any bed additions/changes to get better adhesion, since I know rafts stick fine with what I have. I figure there must be some settings I can change to make my first layer stick too. I am using Simplify3D & have tried a few basic tweaks, but I am largely stabbing in the dark.\n\nWhat are the specific characteristics of a first layer raft, in comparison to a first layer of my print, that might make it stick better?\n\",Alejandro Escontrela,\"While using rafts with PLA is a good idea due to warping, PETG is a material that requires very little build plate adhesion.\n\nWhen I printed with PLA, I would normally use a two layer raft with a 0.3 mm air gap. With PETG, however, I only need a skirt. I recommend calibrating your extruder height so that when you slide a piece of paper underneath, you feel a gentle tug. While 0.2 mm is enough for printing PLA with rafts, 0.1-0.15 mm has worked well for me in terms of distance from the extruder nozzle to the heat bed. \n\nAlso, would you mind sharing your extruder and heat bed temperatures? Ive found that although PETG will melt at the same temperature as PLA, it tends to drag behind the extruder nozzle if the temperature is below ~240°C. \n\nOne final note: Even though most PETG distributors specify that a heated build plate is not required, a heated bed helps my prints stick better. I run a 60°C heat bed which seems to make my prints smoother in the end.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4182,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,patrick jackson,2.528907649931287,5.053013868614477,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Slic3r not interpreting STL correctly,\"I'm very new to 3D printing, I purchased a Monoprice Maker Select Plus last week and I'm just getting started with printing my own models. \n\nI can create fairly simple models in Sketchup without a problem, export in .obj, then using Slic3r, covert the STL into G-code. This method worked fairly well for some simple cubic bearing holders I was printing, however when I tried to slice a complex shape (a wheel), the slicer shows an incomplete version of the .obj file, missing faces and transparent from some angles. \n\n\n\nHere is now what the wheel looked like on the slicer\n\n\n\nThere is obviously something I'm doing wrong in Sketchup, maybe I have to put it through some filters in MeshLab? Or I'm not constructing the model properly?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Sketchup is notorious for creating non-manifold models for 3D printing. The first recommendation would be to consider using a different resource for your models. I'm not a big fan of TinkerCAD, but it is similar in operation to many features of Sketchup. I've used it on a couple occasions where it was the fastest simplest way to create a particular model.\n\nThere are other programs that are more complex in the learning curve. Meshmixer is good for more organic shapes, although it will perform reasonably well for engineering-type models such as yours.\n\nBlender is a great piece of free software with an extremely steep learning curve, but again, better suited to organics.\n\nI'm quite a fan of OpenSCAD which is script/text based and quite well suited to creating engineering-type models, especially if you need parametric modeling. The model you have in your pictures would be an easy build, perhaps twenty minutes creation time, a few dozen lines of text. I see two cylinders, some boolean subtraction and some radial primitives. If the code is clean (easy to do), the result is a manifold object.\n\nOn the even more challenging level, there are programs such as SolidWorks but the learning curve there is steep too. In the same ballpark would be Autodesk Fusion 360, for which a free hobbyist version exists.\n\nOf course, with all of the above, there are YouTube tutorials to assist your learning process.\n\nMore to the point, one can use an online 3D model repair service. I've attempted to use a couple with mixed results.\n\nNetfabb is a commonly recommended online repair service. I've not used that one, or if I have, the results were poor. A bad model (your example) will likely fail with most services.\n\nI've used MakePrintable in the past as well. Again, a bad model will fail and Sketchup is the culprit here.\n\nYou can use Meshmixer in Analysis mode to find the errors and use Auto Repair All, but the results aren't going to be pretty!\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n4530,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,patrick jackson,2.8153892694839717,4.632207061490679,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.5532602411371876,Weird ripping and warping of ABS print,\"I print my ABS at:\n\n\n240 °C;\nwith a bedtemp of 80 °C; \n5 % rectilinear infill;\n0.25 mm layer height;\n2 solid layers top and bottom; \nFan is completely disabled;\n0.25 mm extrusion width;\n50 mm/s perimeter print speed;\n60 mm/s infill speed;\n20 mm/s top solid and solid speed;\nNo acceleration.\n\n\nWhen printing ABS, I place an aluminum foil lined cardboard box over my printer to help keep the ambient temps up for less warping and stronger prints. I've never actually measured the temperature inside, but the cardboard box insulates very well. \n\nI get this weird kind of tearing in my prints, I'm not sure if it's from too large of gaps in my infill, too fast print speeds, or not enough top layers. \n\n\n\nAnother guess is some kind of drooping because of the high ambient temps. \n\nThe tearing only occurs on large top layer surfaces. \n\",cmm,\"Looking at the infill pattern visible through the tears in the top layer, it looks as if you have unreliable extrusion on the infill layers also.\n\nThe solid fill layer is lifted and torn, so it is unlikely that one or two more layers of solid fill will make the result better. In my experience, bumps lead to taller bumps and print failure.\n\nThese diagnostic steps have helped me:\n\n\nPrint a 3 layer solid fill version, the top surface should be smooth and free of bumps;\nPrint a single layer version, it should be smooth, well attached to the print bed, of even thickness, and a good surface for the next layer.\n\n\nGiven your results, I am suspicious that you may have one of these problems, which I've listed in the order of likelihood:\n\n\nPartially blocked nozzle\nExcessive drag from the filament supply, such as a spool with crossed filament which jams itself, preventing unwrapping;\nExtruder feed roller slipping (perhaps full of dust), often a side effect of 1 and 2;\nG-code error dropping the temperature;\nBad heater or thermistor, perhaps intermittent short of the thermistor, causing under heating even though the \"\"average\"\" indicated temperature is correct.\n\n\nPrinting gliders is a cool application. It shows off the weight advantage extrusion 3-D printing can deliver. Nice.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n4530,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,patrick jackson,2.8153892694839717,4.632207061490679,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.5532602411371876,Weird ripping and warping of ABS print,\"I print my ABS at:\n\n\n240 °C;\nwith a bedtemp of 80 °C; \n5 % rectilinear infill;\n0.25 mm layer height;\n2 solid layers top and bottom; \nFan is completely disabled;\n0.25 mm extrusion width;\n50 mm/s perimeter print speed;\n60 mm/s infill speed;\n20 mm/s top solid and solid speed;\nNo acceleration.\n\n\nWhen printing ABS, I place an aluminum foil lined cardboard box over my printer to help keep the ambient temps up for less warping and stronger prints. I've never actually measured the temperature inside, but the cardboard box insulates very well. \n\nI get this weird kind of tearing in my prints, I'm not sure if it's from too large of gaps in my infill, too fast print speeds, or not enough top layers. \n\n\n\nAnother guess is some kind of drooping because of the high ambient temps. \n\nThe tearing only occurs on large top layer surfaces. \n\",FarO,\"First of all, don't specify the extrusion width, the slicing software does the calculation for the optimal value by itself: if you watch this video about extrusion width and you cross the data with this tweet you will see that the standard value is already optimal.\n\nSecond, if you put the printer in a box for insulation you should redo the temperature calibration tower to find out which temperature produces the best results.\n\nOnce you do both you'll find the problem will disappear.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5689,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,patrick jackson,2.528907649931287,4.46357606791815,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Weird underextrusion in vase mode?,\"It's my first time printing in vase mode, and I noticed my printer underextruding badly. The settings have not been changed from default vase mode settings in slicer, and earlier I was printing non-vase mode and the prints came out fine. Layer height is 0.2 mm and perimeter width is 0.3 mm. \n\n\n\n\n\",0scar,\"Finding the cause of under-extrusion is very hard as a lot of parameters of the print process can influence this. There are some nice websites that describe these problems in detail. From your question it is unclear what you have done to solve the problem, or if you have printed products after the vase mode and shown us a picture of that (this eliminates a lot of possible problems). \n\nA nice overview is given by Ultimaker, but other sources may help you to find the root cause, e.g. Simplify3D. If the issue is related to the filament and hot-end, Printrbot, Trideus and Rigid.ink may help you solve the problem.\n\nImportant is to isolate your problem! Not knowing what printer you have, your printer has (or potentially has) the folowing modules/elements that may be causing the underextrusion:\n\n\nthe slicer (highly suspicious),\nthe material/filament and the spool holder (suspicious),\nthe extruder or feeder (suspicious),\nthe hot-end (suspicious),\nthe Bowden tube (suspicious if you have one).\n\n\nNote that to find the root cause you should tackle this by elimination, this way you make sure that certain modules are not causing the problem. Also keep in mind that the vase mode prints a single outline/perimeter shell and won't make any retracts (so the Z axis will continuously rise), in which defects are shown instantly. Please, take a close look at your normal multi perimeter print.\n\nHow to fix under extrusion!\n\nUnder extrusion is probably one of the hardest to find the direct cause as there are so many variables to consider. Please find below some of the variables that can affect your printing quality marked in bold face.\n\n\nMaterial and material settings\n\nThe material you use needs to be resembled correctly, so it is important and easiest thing to check first if your print is suffering from under-extrusion due to incorrect material settings. The material settings in your slicer (or the material profile on your printer for the more fancy printers) should match the material you are printing. So please check the filament diameter with a caliper and measure the diameter at various points; take the mean diameter of at least 3 to 5 measurements. Furthermore, temperature is also an important factor; too low temperatures will cause that the extruder has to push harder as the material is less viscous due to the fact it is not heated properly. Note that this can also happen if the flow of the filament is too high and the heater cannot keep up. It is these high pressures that cause the under extrusion as it may not flow fluidly. In contrast to too low temperatures, too high temperatures, can also cause problems. Very high temperatures can change the structure of the material, this is often referred to as carbonization causing deposits (clogs) in the nozzle. A word of advice, Please check your filament spool/box (or sometimes a paper in the box or bag) for the proper temperatures.\n\nNext to the temperature, other important material settings are the print speed, the layer height and the nozzle size as these properties further define the rate at which the filament volume is deposited. For instance, a too high of a volume flow not only can lead to the previously mentioned cooling of the nozzle, but also is limited by the diameter of the nozzle, you just cannot push more through the nozzle is capable of as the friction will increase (the smallest opening in the system determines the maximum rate of volume flow). If you do, this will lead to under-extrusion. To find the optimum between speed and temperature, a good balance between these needs to be found. A typical way to do that is by the use of printing calibration temperature towers, preferably at various speeds. To print faster, you need a higher temperature, but printing at lower temperatures because of overhangs, you might need to decrease the speed to get a proper extrusion (and maybe also part cooling).\n\nDon't just focus on the hot end part, also take a closer look at the filament spool itself, or better, how the spool unrolls. Is the spool of filament unrolling correctly/freely without a lot of friction (does it make sharp bends, or does it go through a tube having friction from its container to the extruder), or is the filament not correctly wound causing tangled filament (which create a lot of friction preventing enough material to be transported to the hot end) which could stress the extruder.\n\nFor some materials that are hydrophilic (they attract water and trap it in the filament, this happens e.g. with PLA, PVA, Nylon and maybe even more) printing the filament with contained water, the water will turn into steam causing bubbles in the deposited filament and interfere with the flow deposition. This effect sometimes makes a distinct sound like popping bubbles. Always store your filament in a sealed container or bag and use desiccants bags. Moisture can cause damage to the printer as the filament swells when taking up moisture; this could lead to various jams. Last but not least, filament with moisture in it has less mechanical properties after printing than dry filament (up to 33% less).\nThe extruder/feeder and Bowden tube\n\nThe extruder/feeder pushes or feeds material into the hot end, or into a tube (called Bowden tube). Under-extrusion caused by the extruder is typically characterized by the fact that filament is not properly fed to the hot end as a result of too much friction in the tube or hot end, too less grip on the filament or filament grinding (the extruder gear 'eating away' the filament). Too much friction could even cause your stepper to tick or click, basically turning back as the pressure on the filament exerts so much pressure that the stepper is rotated back; increasing the feeder tension on the filament (by adjusting the screw on the extruder/feeder would fix that). Grinding is easily spotted when removing the filament; it will clearly show that the gear has worn away circle shapes. Furthermore, filament taken out of the printer should show visible marks on the material as imprints of the extruder gear, if completely smooth, the feeder tension is too less. On the other hand, too much tension on the feeder could flatten the filament, which leads the previously mentioned grinding effect. If you encounter grinding, please assure that you clean the extruder by removing the filament powder and chunks the grinding produced and recheck the extruder/feeder tension before continuing printing again. Be sure that the grinding particles have not entered the Bowden tube as it causes friction. Cleaning them regularly or replacing them once a year is advisable depending on the usage (or once every x kilometers of filament). Furthermore, larger diameter filament (2.85 or 3 mm) can cause additional friction (in the Bowden tube or the extruder/feeder) as towards the end of the spool, the filament is wound tight along a small diameter spool center causing strongly bend filament that exerts pressure as it acts like a spring creating friction at the walls of the tubes.\nThe hot-end\n\nThe hot end can also be a culprit for under-extrusion. Partial blockage of the nozzle as a result of carbonization (buildup of carbon or carbonized material in the nozzle). Even left over material from previous prints inside the nozzle (unflushed residue) may change the volume of the nozzle when the material you printed before needed a higher temperature than the current you're printing. Also try to get good quality filament, it might be that the quality is just not constant for the whole spool. Too clean the inside of the nozzle, a few techniques exist to remove blockage. By performing a \"\"cold pull\"\" or using the atomic method. Both techniques rely on the mechanism to insert the (cleaning) filament when it's hot and remove it quickly at a lower temperature. E.g. see here or here.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5689,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,patrick jackson,2.528907649931287,4.46357606791815,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Weird underextrusion in vase mode?,\"It's my first time printing in vase mode, and I noticed my printer underextruding badly. The settings have not been changed from default vase mode settings in slicer, and earlier I was printing non-vase mode and the prints came out fine. Layer height is 0.2 mm and perimeter width is 0.3 mm. \n\n\n\n\n\",0scar,\"You are printing walls of 0.3 mm with a 0.4 mm nozzle (25% contraction). This might fall in the category of insufficient volume flow. The wall width is less than the nozzle diameter, so it needs to contract. Either way, the volume is too less and may be dragged along until it is flattened. You should increase the wall width, maybe even a little more than 0.4 mm (although that might not be necessary, see edit below).\n\nTo support this, the next table shows the volume calculation for the filament (based on extruded cilinder shape), the first row is the volume you need to fill the 0.2 mm layer height (0.025 cubic mm), the second is what you extrude with a 0.3 mm width for a 0.2 mm layer (0.014 cubic mm). From this latter value you can calculate the layer height for a 0.4 mm diameter nozzle to be about 0.11 mm, clearly not filling the gap.\n\n\n\n\n\nEdit:\nTo further support this, please read this test.\n\nThe extrusion width versus strength show the optimum strength when the nozzle extrusion width equals the nozzle size.\n\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4185,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tooniis,2.528907649931287,4.441068339200357,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,How to slice this wing so it has a smooth infill like perimeters,\"I have this wing design that I want to print:\n\n\n\nYou can notice that its walls have a thickness, which is 1.0 mm.\nI want to print it so that the perimeters are inside that thickness.\nHere is the wing sliced with 1 perimeter and 0% infill:\n\n\n\nYou can notice a gap between the perimeters. That gap is what I want filled and not the perimeters in the image. With 0 perimeters and 100% infill I got this zig-zagged line:\n\n\n\nI want the gap to be filled; but, I don't want it to be zig-zagged like in the image. I want it to be smooth like the perimeters in the other image.\n\nBasically I want a smooth infill that goes around the curves just like the perimeters. The reason why I don't want to print both the perimeters and the infill is because I want to save as much weight a possible as this is a wing of a model plane that must fly, so the lighter it is the more efficient it will be.\n\nAny ideas how I can slice this?\n\nThe images are screenshots in Slic3r, but I can use Cura as well.\nThis is just a test slice. The wing model is not finished yet.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Consider to create a test print using the settings you've presented in the sliced output rendering. It could be something as small as a 4 or 5 mm tall cross section, enough to get clear of the bed and establish a stable base. You may find that your goal is achieved.\n\nAlso consider that a common nozzle diameter is 0.4 mm and with an extrusion multiplier, you may not reach a clean integer combination. That is to say, a 0.4 mm nozzle and a 1.05 extrusion factor results in (theoretically) a build thickness of 0.42 mm. Take two of those and you have 0.84, but three of them are 1.26 mm.\n\nYou can increase number of wall thicknesses or reduce them as needed to avoid infill or the attempt by the printer to create infill. It may be necessary to adjust your model parameters to achieve a clean combination.\n\nI know that Slic3r supports concentric infill, which will effectively trace the walls rather than turn them into zig-zag shapes. On a base layer, having such a pattern may make for a weaker layer, but you can adjust so many things in that respect that you should be able to accomplish your objective.\n\nExperimentation is useful in a situation such as this. What Slic3r shows you isn't necessarily what will hit the bed.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4185,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tooniis,2.528907649931287,4.441068339200357,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,How to slice this wing so it has a smooth infill like perimeters,\"I have this wing design that I want to print:\n\n\n\nYou can notice that its walls have a thickness, which is 1.0 mm.\nI want to print it so that the perimeters are inside that thickness.\nHere is the wing sliced with 1 perimeter and 0% infill:\n\n\n\nYou can notice a gap between the perimeters. That gap is what I want filled and not the perimeters in the image. With 0 perimeters and 100% infill I got this zig-zagged line:\n\n\n\nI want the gap to be filled; but, I don't want it to be zig-zagged like in the image. I want it to be smooth like the perimeters in the other image.\n\nBasically I want a smooth infill that goes around the curves just like the perimeters. The reason why I don't want to print both the perimeters and the infill is because I want to save as much weight a possible as this is a wing of a model plane that must fly, so the lighter it is the more efficient it will be.\n\nAny ideas how I can slice this?\n\nThe images are screenshots in Slic3r, but I can use Cura as well.\nThis is just a test slice. The wing model is not finished yet.\n\",Tooniis,\"I found a great solution!\n\nIn Cura, there is a setting under Shell called Horizontal Expansion. What this does is it controls the distance between the two perimeters. A negative value in this field will make them come closer together, thus removing the gap between them.\n\n\n\nI found that -0.1 is the perfect value for 1 mm thick walls like the ones in my design. So I set it to -0.1, then set the infill to 100% because in some spots the thickness is a little bit more than 1 mm, so the infill closes the gaps in those places. Here is the result:\n\n\n\nYou can see the perimeters are now sticking to each other and there is no gap between them. The result estimated weight is 71 g, which is a quite good reduction from the estimated 92 g when not using horizontal expansion.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5097,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tooniis,3.0576060275493275,5.3556981821183225,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Anet A8 reading 739°C from the extruder thermistor!,\"I accidentally let the print head of my Anet A8 crash into one of 2 clips that are holding a glass sheet onto the hot bed, and suddenly the screen went blank and the printer rebooted, then it started reading 739°C from the extruder thermistor. I tried changing the thermistor, but that didn't have any effect. Also tried swapping the extruder thermistor with the hot bed thermistor, but there was no effect on both. I checked both the connector and the socket of the thermistor for shorts but found none. Any ideas about the reason this is happening?\n\n-Using Skynet3D 2.3.2 on the stock Anet board.\n\nEDIT\n\nI tried burning the bootloader and flashing the firmware onto the Anet V1.0 board using an Arduino UNO as an ISP, but that had absolutely no effect.\n\nEDIT 2\n\nI measured R41 located next to the hotend thermistor header\n\nand found out it has a resistance of 1.5kΩ, while it should have a resistance of 4.7kΩ, so I suspect this is the main reason behind this high reading. Now the only thing left to figure out is how the resistance of this resistor changed.\n\nI was able to figure out which resistor to measure with the help of this schematic: https://github.com/ralf-e/ANET-3D-Board-V1.0/blob/master/ANET3D_Board_Schematic.png\n\nEDIT 3\nI tested T56 (located near the headers) and T55 (located near the ATMEGA1284P) for continuity, and found out there's no connection between those, while they should be connected according to the schematics. I also checked the hotbed's terminals T54 and T53 and found continuity between them, which means the problem might be in the trace between the thermistor header and input pin of the ATMEGA chip (this trace is VERY thin, so any overcurrent might cut it), or any component in this trace.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"\n and found out it has a resistance of 1.5kΩ, while it should have a resistance of 4.7kΩ, so I suspect this is the main reason behind this high reading. Now the only thing left to figure out is how the resistance of this resistor changed.\n\n\nYou can't measure the resistance of a resistor in circuit - the resistance probably appears to be lower to your multimeter because of some other circuit elements. There's also no reasonable explanation for how a 4.7k resistor could suddenly turn into a 1.5k one. It's highly unlikely this resistor is the cause of your issues.\n\nIt is more likely something else is damaged, likely the AtMega1284p microcontroller itself. When your extruder touched the bed clip, perhaps the 12V from the bed shorted through the clip and to the extruder? I would guess that the 12V shorted itself to the thermistor input, which subsequently blew the ESD protection diode on that input. This might explain the high reading and the low apparent resistance of R41.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5097,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tooniis,3.0576060275493275,5.3556981821183225,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Anet A8 reading 739°C from the extruder thermistor!,\"I accidentally let the print head of my Anet A8 crash into one of 2 clips that are holding a glass sheet onto the hot bed, and suddenly the screen went blank and the printer rebooted, then it started reading 739°C from the extruder thermistor. I tried changing the thermistor, but that didn't have any effect. Also tried swapping the extruder thermistor with the hot bed thermistor, but there was no effect on both. I checked both the connector and the socket of the thermistor for shorts but found none. Any ideas about the reason this is happening?\n\n-Using Skynet3D 2.3.2 on the stock Anet board.\n\nEDIT\n\nI tried burning the bootloader and flashing the firmware onto the Anet V1.0 board using an Arduino UNO as an ISP, but that had absolutely no effect.\n\nEDIT 2\n\nI measured R41 located next to the hotend thermistor header\n\nand found out it has a resistance of 1.5kΩ, while it should have a resistance of 4.7kΩ, so I suspect this is the main reason behind this high reading. Now the only thing left to figure out is how the resistance of this resistor changed.\n\nI was able to figure out which resistor to measure with the help of this schematic: https://github.com/ralf-e/ANET-3D-Board-V1.0/blob/master/ANET3D_Board_Schematic.png\n\nEDIT 3\nI tested T56 (located near the headers) and T55 (located near the ATMEGA1284P) for continuity, and found out there's no connection between those, while they should be connected according to the schematics. I also checked the hotbed's terminals T54 and T53 and found continuity between them, which means the problem might be in the trace between the thermistor header and input pin of the ATMEGA chip (this trace is VERY thin, so any overcurrent might cut it), or any component in this trace.\n\",vittorio88,\"I had the same issue. Hot-end temperature reading stuck at 209 degrees even with hot-end thermistor disconnected or swapped with bed thermistor on the Anet A8 mainboard.\n\nAfter ordering and swapping the AtMega1284p (using jtagice3 and hot-air soldering station) and the 4.7 Kohm resistor (which measured 2.06Kohm on the board and 4.7kohm off the board) to no avail, the only component left in the circuit that could cause the failure was the capacitor.\n\nSwapping the capacitor C47 fixed the stuck reading for me. I used a 10uF instead of a 15uF capacitor as indicated in the schematic. I do not believe it makes much of a difference, and they are much more common. Make sure the capacitor can withstand at least 10V, but I got a 30V one, because the price was similar.\n\nTo any body that runs into this issue, before spending time and money swapping components like I did, measure the voltage of the node between R41 and C47 with respect to ground. This is labeled T56 or test point 56. Compare this voltage to T54, T60, T58, and T62 where similar circuits are placed. You should get a voltage of around 5V ( the pull-up voltage) in the functioning circuits, since we are talking about DC voltage, the capacitor should charge up nearly instantly when the the board is powered, and behave as an open-circuit.\n\nIn my case, C47 was almost in full short-circuit, and I read a low voltage on T56 ( ~0.5v). \n\nSince the capacitor was in a low impedance failure mode, the 5V supply voltage of the voltage divider circuit was not enough to power it, hence the fixed temperature readings of the hot-end thermistor ADC channel regardless of the thermistor being connected or not.\n\nGood luck!\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n5676,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tooniis,2.528907649931287,5.058521117454641,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Plug sdramps module and Anet A8 LCD together into RAMPS smart adapter,\"I want to upgrade my Anet A8's motherboard (the stock one is broken anyway, see: Anet A8 reading 739°C from the extruder thermistor!) to the RAMPS 1.4, without having to get a new LCD/microSD module. I am thinking of getting both a smart adapter and sdramps, then maybe plug the sdramps and the stock Anet A8 LCD into the smart adapter, but I am not sure whether the sdramps module has a different pinout than the RAMPS smart controller, which is what the smart adapter is made for.\n\nCan someone confirm whether they have the same pinouts or not, or give me some alternatives to my idea?\n\",0scar,\"The Anet A8 uses a simple LCD with 5 buttons, the problem is that the buttons do not use digital pin signals, instead analog pins are used. Based on the pressed button, with corresponding resistance the firmware knows which button is pressed. The RAMPS smart adapter uses digital pins, so the Anet LCD is not compatible with the smart adapter, you may wan't to opt for a cheap Chinese 12864 LCD smart controller, they are about $8, they are compatible.\n\n\n\nThe topic Connecting (Anet A8) 2004 display to MKS GEN L shows you to hook up the Anet A8 LCD to a RAMPS board. You do not use the smart adapter, instead you use AUX2. You only have to change 2 wires (interchange them on AUX2) and you will be able to use the display. The reason you cannot use the smart adapter is that the 5 button display requires analog pins, which are not available on the smart adapter, but are available on the AUX2 header.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n4188,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,polo,3.452496054252184,4.947445658274938,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How to carve a hollow cylinder along the curved surface in Fusion 360,\"Let me start with a disclaimer: I'm new to 3D design, to design in general and specifically brand new to Fusion 360. This is my first project.\n\nI started by creating a hollow cylinder, with the one end open and the other end closed. For example a hollow cylinder with the bottom closed and the top open.\n\nI was able to create such hollow cylinder using the cylinder and shell tools.\n\nNow, I wish to carve / engrave a pattern on the shell. I may want this carving to go all the way through the shell (practically making a hole the shape of my pattern); or,I may just want to engrave on part of the shell, but not cut all the way though.\n\nMy pattern is a sound wave. I have a 2D black and white image of this sound wave. I may want to carve it onto the curved shell, so that it curves around the cylinder. \n\nI hope my description is clear. Another way to describe what I'm looking for, is to imagine cutting the sound wave pattern though a 2D rectangle, and then curl this rectangle along its width into a cylinder.\n\nHow can I do something like that?\n\",TECTEC3 Studios,\"If you want it to be engraved, then sketch out the sound wave on the center plane. When you go to extrude, click \"\"extrude from\"\", and then click \"\"from object\"\". Click on the plane you want to extrude from, and then 2xtrude however for you would like to. Another way to do this would be to project the sketch onto the surface, and then extrude the projection. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4197,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Simon,2.528907649931287,3.7976649486717515,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Is the Prometheus system compatible with Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus?,\"I'm trying to figure out whether the Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus can easily be extended to print with two separate filaments using the Prometheus System by DisTech Automation using a single hotend (NOT with two separate hot ends/nozzles).\n\nAccording to DisTech, the Prometheus System is compatible with 3D printers that support the following:\n\n\nDual extruder stepper motors on the controller board\nCURA slicer engine (Simplify3D support is in development)\nMarlin/Repetier based firmware (this includes almost all desktop 3D printers)\n\n\nAs I'm not an expert on 3D printing and don't own the Duplicator yet (making up purchase decision right now), I'd appreciate if you could help me with your past experience with Duplicator and/or Prometheus.\n\",Trish,\"The Prometheus system is pretty much a Y-coupler and two extruders. So, you need your Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus to have the connection points for two extruders and the axis, which means you need one free, 4 wire connection slot from a stepper driver. So, let's look what kind of board is in there...\n\n\n\nThis Melzi Hypbrid is the mainboard the Duplicator uses, similar to a lot of other Melzi derivates (itself as it seems a Sanguino Derivate). The green 4-pin terminal is the extruder. There is only one of these. So it is not useable with Prometheus. You would need to get a mainboard that is able to run dual extruders.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4205,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris Diel,3.0576060275493275,3.767727146819673,0.0,2.011441651225199,4.240216107868139,4.7596040015155525,What do I do when I have a little filament left?,\"I just printed my first thing, now there's very little filament left in my Monoprice Select Mini v2. \n\nWhat do I do about it? Yank it out? Try to print out what's left of it and hope it all extrudes safely? \n\nI'm not sure what my next move here is. Is doing either, dangerous to the safety of my machine? I haven't seen any guides or information on this and I'm afraid I'm going to break something.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Heat the extruder up first, then remove the filament. You can remove the filament either by reversing the extruder using a command such as G1 E-100 F200, by using your printer's controls/LCD (if it has one) or simply pull the filament out by hand. To this end, most extruders have a lever that you can push to disengage the drive gear to make it easier to pull the filament out.\n\nYou can just heat the extruder up to printing temperature, but a perhaps better approach is a cold-pull, where you heat the extruder up just barely enough to be able to remove the filament (to, say, 120-180°C) and then pull the filament out. This has the advantage of removing more of the old filament and perhaps also taking some debris that may be stuck in the nozzle with it.\n\nTrying to print it all out won't work because once the last bit of filament goes past the drive gear, you won't be able to extrude the rest of it. Feeding in a new bit of filament might push the old filament out, but it could just as easily get jammed.\n\",3.6340916038470805,2.0769199823829045\n4207,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Andrew Ebling,2.528907649931287,4.544184172621917,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Anet A8 right Z drops 2 mm during print,\"I've noticed that after my Anet A8 completes a print, the right hand Z mount ends up 1-2 mm lower than the left, even though I make sure both the left and right hand Z mounts of the X-axis are at the same height before switching on the printer.\n\nDoes anyone know what the cause of this might be?\n\nI'm guessing something is causing the right hand Z to skip steps. I can't see or hear any obvious mechanical issues. I checked all guide and threaded rods were straight before assembly. \n\nCould it be a faulty stepper or control electronics?\n\",KDM,\"Try winding the Z axis all the up and down a few times using the front panel controls. Does it still go out of alignment? Is it out of alignment at the top? Does it come back into alignment when you wind it back down?\n\nThe principle is: if you have a dodgy motor drive chip, or a mechanical fault, it will skip some steps on the way up and the two motors will be out of synch. Then, on the way back down, it will skip an (approximately equal) number of steps and the motors will return to something resembling similar places.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4207,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Andrew Ebling,2.528907649931287,4.544184172621917,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Anet A8 right Z drops 2 mm during print,\"I've noticed that after my Anet A8 completes a print, the right hand Z mount ends up 1-2 mm lower than the left, even though I make sure both the left and right hand Z mounts of the X-axis are at the same height before switching on the printer.\n\nDoes anyone know what the cause of this might be?\n\nI'm guessing something is causing the right hand Z to skip steps. I can't see or hear any obvious mechanical issues. I checked all guide and threaded rods were straight before assembly. \n\nCould it be a faulty stepper or control electronics?\n\",ZuOverture,\"My guess is your Z guides are not strictly parallel because there's no instruction how to install X guides correctly. When you install X guides, you can easily make horizontal distance between two Z-mounts either too small or too large, which puts extra stress on one of the Z motors. Move your extruder to home position, measure distance between bottom ends of Z threaded rods and between top ends, and try to adjust right Z-mount position on X guides so that these two distances become equal. Use hammer, but be accurate with plastic.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5775,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Andrew Ebling,2.528907649931287,5.017215538549123,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Apply X-offset to gcode (re-slicing not possible),\"I am currently printing the QTrainer aircraft from 3DLabPrint on my Anet A8, via the supplied i3-compatible gcode files.\n\nSo far, everything has printed fine, but the main undercarriage part tries to print off the left hand side of the bed by about 5mm. \n\nI have tried manually adding an M206 X-10 line to the gcode file, just after G28 ; home all, however this has not had any effect:\n\nG90\nM83\nM106 S0\nM140 S65\nM190 S65\nM104 S220 T0\nM109 S220 T0\nG28 ; home all\nM206 X-10 ; added by me\nG1 E-0.8000 F1800\nG1 Z0.200 F1002\n; layer 1, Z = 0.2\nT0\n; tool H0.200 W0.450\n; skirt\nG1 X9.382 Y10.533 F6000\nG1 E0.8000 F540\nG1 X10.536 Y10.537 E0.0388 F1440\n...\n\n\nHowever this does not work and I'm not clear on whether I am using this gcode command correctly, or whether my printer simply doesn't support that command.\n\nIs there another way I can apply an X-offset to the gcode file (or printer) to move it a few cm to the right of the print area?\n\nAs I do not own Simplify3D and cannot currently afford it, re-slicing the STL files is unfortunately not an option.\n\nUnfortunately there is no X-adjustment on the X limit switch (although I suppose I could temporarily tape something to the print head, so that it activates the switch sooner?).\n\nMy Anet A8 currently runs stock firmware, hooked up to OctoPrint and I have access to a Macintosh desktop computer.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"You can use G92 to change the coordinates the machine \"\"thinks\"\" it's at. If just after homing, you apply\n\nG92 X-10\n\n\nthe machine now thinks it's at X = -10, while in reality it's at X = 0. This results in everything thereafter behaving as if it is shifted in the positive X direction by 10 mm (since if you then commanded a move to X = 1 the machine would move to what is physically X = 11).\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n5931,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Andrew Ebling,2.8153892694839717,5.915643238929207,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Adding extra Z-offset to bed for PETG in Slic3r,\"Having printed exclusively in PLA for the past year, I'm now looking at trying out PETG in order to print a set of spare parts for my new Prusa i3 mk3.\n\nI have bought a roll of PETG from Rigid.ink and their recommendation is to leave an extra 0.2mm gap between the nozzle and bed.\n\nCan I achieve this extra Z offset in gcode using Slic3r PE, or would I need to do it using Live Z Adjust on the printer? How would I go about doing this if so?\n\nOr is there some other way of doing it, so whenever I select my PETG filament profile in Slic3r, the extra Z-offset gets added?\n\",0scar,\"An extra gap of 0.2 mm on top of your existing gap seems rather illogical as the filament is not squished at the build plate anymore. Furthermore 0.2 mm plus something you already have will soon result in a gap over 75% of your nozzle diameter (including your first layer; note that 75% is considered to be the max for good adhesion). The filament will then drop down to the plate... Possible effects/results can be seen in this recent question.\n\nHaving printed about 8 kg's of PETG, I have never had to add an additional gap. I have printed on various machines; Prusa clone, Ultimaker 3E and self build CoreXY. I use a 0.2 to 0.25 mm first layer thickness (for a 0.4 mm nozzle) while printing on glass or directly onto the aluminium bed using a PVA based spray glue (3DLAC). Beds are always leveled with the nozzle to bed distance of a sheet A4 printing paper. I have zero adhesion problems.\n\nI would recommend you to try print as you would normally do and, when that does not work, increase the first layer in your slicer slightly. Printing temperature/speed towers is also recommended to find the best settings for your brand of PETG.\n\nNow to address your specific question how to change the offset in your slicer; an additional offset can be added into your start code script by adding a move to a certain height and redefining the zero Z level. This should be typically done after auto leveling of the bed (if used). So before the first layer is being printed you could add:\n\n; start code contains homing, pre-heating, auto-leveling, nozzle priming, etc.\nG1 Z0.2 F500 ; Go to the level of 0.2 mm + your paper thickness\nG92 Z0 ; This redefines the zero Z level\n\n\nYou can create custom startcode profiles in Slic3r (requires setting the Printer Settings) and store them with a specific name so you can have different printer profiles.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n10018,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Andrew Ebling,1.0891412423578797,2.5245875148292196,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Minimum material deposit threshold in slic3r,\"I've been using Slic3r for a while now, and for the most part am happy with the results it produces. I mostly use the standard profiles provided by Prusa for my i3 mk3.\n\nHowever, when watching the 3D printer at work, executing GCODE produced by Slic3r, I notice that frequently the printer makes large travel moves, deposits an absolutely tiny amount of material and does this several times in a row. Sometimes this is so small, barely any material actually comes out of the extruder. I'm convinced the end result would be no different if these operations were simply skipped. In some instances it might even improve print quality, due to reduced stringing.\n\nIt strikes me that print time and printer wear-and-tear could be significantly reduced if there was an option to simply skip deposits of material below a certain threshold of volume.\n\nDespite having gone through all the Slic3r options, I've never found something which does this, unless there is a way to achieve it with some combination of settings which I have not understood.\n\nMy question is therefore: how can I tell Slic3r not to make individual material deposit moves, below a certain volume?\n\",Jeroen3,\"It does this in small corners.\n\nFor example, this model, when sliced has this on layer ~7:\n\nTiny tiny bit of blue infill.\n\nThere seems to be no feature to explicitely disable this.\nBut sometimes an additional perimeter solves it.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4208,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,morevitamins,2.528907649931287,3.6626933444091816,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Printrun doesn't connect when 12 V is on,\"I'm able to connect to Arduino+RAMPS through USB. I can even check end stops with M119. However, if I plug it to the power supply, my MacBook goes crazy and restart itself! Things I have tried:\n\n\nUninstalled OSX, installed Ubuntu, I get readiness error when PSU is connected.\nBought a new pair of RAMPS + Arduino.\nRun RAMPS all naked without anything on it.\nMeasured PSU output, 12.2 V is stable.\n\n\nI'm at a point I started to think my MacBook's USB ports are messed up. It is a 2008 model, do you think that would be right to blame?\n\nUpdate\n\nTried a new and a very short USB cable: It worked for the first time and I'm able to home all axes, but laptop's trackpad gets very hard to control for some reason. I can only use an external mouse.\n\",Greenonline,\"It sounds a bit like you are having (additional) grounding issues1. Are your MacBook and the RAMPS using the same ground, i.e. are they using the same mains circuit?\n\nIf you are using the same power strip, then the next thing to check would be that the PSU on the printer correctly grounded (at the bottom of the unit). \n\nFrom David Crocker's superlative blog, see Upgrading the large delta printer - Power supply output grounding:\n\n\n Power supply output grounding\n \n While taking some measurements on my machine, I discovered that the\n negative side of the output of the 12V LED power supply I am using was\n not connected to ground inside the power supply as I expected. This\n presents a safety hazard. So I added an additional wire from ground to\n the spare negative output terminal of the power supply.\n\n\n\n\n\n\n1 Why do I think this? Three reasons:\n\n\nBecause grounding issues is one of the most common, and over-looked, problems, in circuit design; \nI have often had peripheral devices, that use a separate additional power supply, cause a PC laptop to go \"\"haywire\"\" (or worse, die) once connected via RS232/USB (especially charge sensitive devices on the laptop, such as the track pad), due to different, or floating, grounds, and;\nI had recently read the blog and made special note to check all of my power supplies as they are all terrible, cheap, Chinese knockoffs, and grounding circuits in Thailand are usually non-existant, or, at best, poorly wired up.\n\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n4248,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,morevitamins,2.1782824847157594,5.377750772350909,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Why do I have to lower my Z axis steps per mm?,\"First, X and Y axis works perfectly, I measured well. I have plugged all jumpers, and use a very standard ramps 1.4 setup with standard Nema 17 200rev 1.8 motors and A4988 drivers.\n\nFor Z axis, I have leadscrew with 8mm diameter and 2mm pitch.\n\nI calculated it should be 1600 steps per mm.\nProblem is when I call G1 Z5 it goes to 2 cm. So I lowered my setting to 400 steps per mm and problem solved.\n\nI don't understand what I'm missing here. I have used this calculator to find 1600.\n\nWhere I'm wrong on the math then?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Your leadscrew probably is a 2 mm pitch, 4-start leadscrew. This means that there are actually 4 separate grooves on the leadscrew, each with a pitch of 8 mm. Confusingly, this makes the total pitch 2 mm, since the distance from one groove to the next is 8mm divided by 4 grooves. However, one revolution of the leadscrew will still move the nut by 8 mm. Thus, in the Prusa calculator, you should enter a pitch of 8 mm/revolution. Since you entered a pitch of 2 mm, you ended up with a figure that is 4 times too large.\n\nThe reason leadscrews are made like this is that if you just had a single groove with an 8 mm pitch, the nut would need to be made very long to enable it to make contact with a sufficiently long portion of thread. By increasing the number of grooves, you can get away with a shorter nut. With lower pitch (lead-)screws you don't need multiple starts, since the lower pitch means the same length of nut is in contact with more thread.\n\n\n\nFor the relative advantages and disadvantages of the various leads (8/4/2 mm), as opposed to pitches, see also Would using a leadscrew with 1 or 2 mm lead, en lieu of 8 mm, result in a better printer?\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n4255,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,morevitamins,1.0891412423578797,3.264951048124368,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Magnetic field around the printer,\"I'm using a low voltage active screwdriver that is sensitive to magnetic fields.\n\nIt is weird, even I put a metal piece on the glass over the heated bed and check it with the pen, it lights fully. If I hold the pen on air anywhere nearby, it is weak but still lights a bit.\n\nMy cards and PSU are not mounted on the case. I also grounded my PSU with a small cable from G to V-. So, what could be the reason? Is that normal for such complicated devices? Just curious.\n\",R3D34THR4Y,\"The heated bed is a big PCB whose traces can act like a coil since heating the bed makes current flow through these traces.\n\nBy placing a metal object over it, you encounter a phenomenon called induction which will heat up the metal object (that can be the screwdriver tip) because the magnetic field generated by the \"\"coil\"\" of the heat bed.\n\nSince these screwdrivers can be pretty sensitive the electrical current transferred from the heat bed to the metal bit may turn on the screwdriver LED\n\nAlso, stepper motors contain magnets and electromagnets which produce an alternating magnetic field when turned on which, by induction, can produce a little current in the spring inside the screwdriver which would act like a receiving coil thus turning on the led hooked up to it.\n\nTry this with your printer on: put the tip of your screwdriver on your tongue (which will effectively ground it with your body) and put the handle over stepper motors or the heat bed and see if it lights brighter.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4216,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Stefan,2.1782824847157594,4.865284901051866,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.551027839747059,Z-axis not moving up,\"I'm near the end of the build of a i3 MK2 clone and have run into a problem with the Z-axis motors. Specifically, the Z-axis will move down (and trigger the endstop) but it will only make a quick noise if I try to move it up.\n\nM119 shows all endstops open. Min software stops are currently disabled, as I try to set the printer up. Using Marlin 1.1.3 with a RAMPS 1.4. Both motors turn and I've even uncoupled the entire X-axis carriage.\n\nAdditional test: reversed the z-axis motor wires and they only go up. Inverted the motor direction in software and they also only go up.\n\nAny advice? I've definitely done a few searches but haven't solved the problem.\n\nConfig.h is as follows (clipped due to posting restrictions):\n\n//===========================================================================\n//============================== Endstop Settings ===========================\n//===========================================================================\n\n// @section homing\n\n// Specify here all the endstop connectors that are connected to any endstop or probe.\n// Almost all printers will be using one per axis. Probes will use one or more of the\n// extra connectors. Leave undefined any used for non-endstop and non-probe purposes.\n#define USE_XMIN_PLUG\n#define USE_YMIN_PLUG\n#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG\n//#define USE_XMAX_PLUG\n//#define USE_YMAX_PLUG\n//#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG\n\n// coarse Endstop Settings\n//#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors\n\n#if DISABLED(ENDSTOPPULLUPS)\n // fine endstop settings: Individual pullups. will be ignored if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN_PROBE\n#endif\n\n// Mechanical endstop with COM to ground and NC to Signal uses \"\"false\"\" here (most common setup).\n#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n#define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n#define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n#define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n#define Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the probe.\n\n// Enable this feature if all enabled endstop pins are interrupt-capable.\n// This will remove the need to poll the interrupt pins, saving many CPU cycles.\n//#define ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE\n\n//=============================================================================\n//============================== Movement Settings ============================\n//=============================================================================\n// @section motion\n\n/**\n * Default Settings\n *\n * These settings can be reset by M502\n *\n * Note that if EEPROM is enabled, saved values will override these.\n */\n\n/**\n * With this option each E stepper can have its own factors for the\n * following movement settings. If fewer factors are given than the\n * total number of extruders, the last value applies to the rest.\n */\n//#define DISTINCT_E_FACTORS\n\n/**\n * Default Axis Steps Per Unit (steps/mm)\n * Override with M92\n * X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]\n */\n#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 100, 100, 4000, 120 }\n\n/**\n * Default Max Feed Rate (mm/s)\n * Override with M203\n * X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]\n */\n#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 200, 200, 3, 25 }\n\n/**\n * Default Max Acceleration (change/s) change = mm/s\n * (Maximum start speed for accelerated moves)\n * Override with M201\n * X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]\n */\n#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION { 3000, 3000, 100, 10000 }\n\n/**\n * Default Acceleration (change/s) change = mm/s\n * Override with M204\n *\n * M204 P Acceleration\n * M204 R Retract Acceleration\n * M204 T Travel Acceleration\n */\n#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 3000 // X, Y, Z and E acceleration for printing moves\n#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 3000 // E acceleration for retracts\n#define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION 3000 // X, Y, Z acceleration for travel (non printing) moves\n\n/**\n * Default Jerk (mm/s)\n * Override with M205 X Y Z E\n *\n * \"\"Jerk\"\" specifies the minimum speed change that requires acceleration.\n * When changing speed and direction, if the difference is less than the\n * value set here, it may happen instantaneously.\n */\n#define DEFAULT_XJERK 10.0\n#define DEFAULT_YJERK 10.0\n#define DEFAULT_ZJERK 0.4\n#define DEFAULT_EJERK 2.0\n\n\n//===========================================================================\n//============================= Z Probe Options =============================\n//===========================================================================\n// @section probes\n\n//\n// See http://marlinfw.org/configuration/probes.html\n//\n\n/**\n * Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN\n *\n * Enable this option for a probe connected to the Z Min endstop pin.\n */\n#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN\n\n/**\n * Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP\n *\n * Enable this option for a probe connected to any pin except Z-Min.\n * (By default Marlin assumes the Z-Max endstop pin.)\n * To use a custom Z Probe pin, set Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN below.\n *\n * - The simplest option is to use a free endstop connector.\n * - Use 5V for powered (usually inductive) sensors.\n *\n * - RAMPS 1.3/1.4 boards may use the 5V, GND, and Aux4->D32 pin:\n * - For simple switches connect...\n * - normally-closed switches to GND and D32.\n * - normally-open switches to 5V and D32.\n *\n * WARNING: Setting the wrong pin may have unexpected and potentially\n * disastrous consequences. Use with caution and do your homework.\n *\n */\n//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP\n//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN Z_MAX_PIN\n\n/**\n * Probe Type\n *\n * Allen Key Probes, Servo Probes, Z-Sled Probes, FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE, etc.\n * You must activate one of these to use Auto Bed Leveling below.\n */\n\n/**\n * The \"\"Manual Probe\"\" provides a means to do \"\"Auto\"\" Bed Leveling without a probe.\n * Use G29 repeatedly, adjusting the Z height at each point with movement commands\n * or (with LCD_BED_LEVELING) the LCD controller.\n */\n//#define PROBE_MANUALLY\n\n/**\n * A Fix-Mounted Probe either doesn't deploy or needs manual deployment.\n * (e.g., an inductive probe or a nozzle-based probe-switch.)\n */\n#define FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE\n\n/**\n * Z Servo Probe, such as an endstop switch on a rotating arm.\n */\n//#define Z_ENDSTOP_SERVO_NR 0 // Defaults to SERVO 0 connector.\n//#define Z_SERVO_ANGLES {70,0} // Z Servo Deploy and Stow angles\n\n/**\n * The BLTouch probe uses a Hall effect sensor and emulates a servo.\n */\n//#define BLTOUCH\n#if ENABLED(BLTOUCH)\n //#define BLTOUCH_DELAY 375 // (ms) Enable and increase if needed\n#endif\n\n/**\n * Enable if probing seems unreliable. Heaters and/or fans - consistent with the\n * options selected below - will be disabled during probing so as to minimize\n * potential EM interference by quieting/silencing the source of the 'noise' (the change\n * in current flowing through the wires). This is likely most useful to users of the\n * BLTouch probe, but may also help those with inductive or other probe types.\n */\n//#define PROBING_HEATERS_OFF // Turn heaters off when probing\n//#define PROBING_FANS_OFF // Turn fans off when probing\n\n// A probe that is deployed and stowed with a solenoid pin (SOL1_PIN)\n//#define SOLENOID_PROBE\n\n// A sled-mounted probe like those designed by Charles Bell.\n//#define Z_PROBE_SLED\n//#define SLED_DOCKING_OFFSET 5 // The extra distance the X axis must travel to pickup the sled. 0 should be fine but you can push it further if you'd like.\n\n//\n// For Z_PROBE_ALLEN_KEY see the Delta example configurations.\n//\n\n/**\n * Z Probe to nozzle (X,Y) offset, relative to (0, 0).\n * X and Y offsets must be integers.\n *\n * In the following example the X and Y offsets are both positive:\n * #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10\n * #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10\n *\n * +-- BACK ---+\n * | |\n * L | (+) P | R <-- probe (20,20)\n * E | | I\n * F | (-) N (+) | G <-- nozzle (10,10)\n * T | | H\n * | (-) | T\n * | |\n * O-- FRONT --+\n * (0,0)\n */\n#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 22 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]\n#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 12 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]\n#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]\n\n// X and Y axis travel speed (mm/m) between probes\n#define XY_PROBE_SPEED 8000\n\n// Speed for the first approach when double-probing (with PROBE_DOUBLE_TOUCH)\n#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z\n\n// Speed for the \"\"accurate\"\" probe of each point\n#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_SLOW (Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST / 2)\n\n// Use double touch for probing\n//#define PROBE_DOUBLE_TOUCH\n\n/**\n * Z probes require clearance when deploying, stowing, and moving between\n * probe points to avoid hitting the bed and other hardware.\n * Servo-mounted probes require extra space for the arm to rotate.\n * Inductive probes need space to keep from triggering early.\n *\n * Use these settings to specify the distance (mm) to raise the probe (or\n * lower the bed). The values set here apply over and above any (negative)\n * probe Z Offset set with Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER, M851, or the LCD.\n * Only integer values >= 1 are valid here.\n *\n * Example: `M851 Z-5` with a CLEARANCE of 4 => 9mm from bed to nozzle.\n * But: `M851 Z+1` with a CLEARANCE of 2 => 2mm from bed to nozzle.\n */\n#define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE 10 // Z Clearance for Deploy/Stow\n#define Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES 5 // Z Clearance between probe points\n\n// For M851 give a range for adjusting the Z probe offset\n#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN -20\n#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX 20\n\n// Enable the M48 repeatability test to test probe accuracy\n//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_REPEATABILITY_TEST\n\n// For Inverting Stepper Enable Pins (Active Low) use 0, Non Inverting (Active High) use 1\n// :{ 0:'Low', 1:'High' }\n#define X_ENABLE_ON 0\n#define Y_ENABLE_ON 0\n#define Z_ENABLE_ON 0\n#define E_ENABLE_ON 0 // For all extruders\n\n// Disables axis stepper immediately when it's not being used.\n// WARNING: When motors turn off there is a chance of losing position accuracy!\n#define DISABLE_X false\n#define DISABLE_Y false\n#define DISABLE_Z false\n// Warn on display about possibly reduced accuracy\n//#define DISABLE_REDUCED_ACCURACY_WARNING\n\n// @section extruder\n\n#define DISABLE_E false // For all extruders\n#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_EXTRUDER true // Keep only the active extruder enabled.\n\n// @section machine\n\n// Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way.\n#define INVERT_X_DIR false\n#define INVERT_Y_DIR false\n#define INVERT_Z_DIR false\n\n// Enable this option for Toshiba stepper drivers\n//#define CONFIG_STEPPERS_TOSHIBA\n\n// @section extruder\n\n// For direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false.\n#define INVERT_E0_DIR false\n#define INVERT_E1_DIR false\n#define INVERT_E2_DIR false\n#define INVERT_E3_DIR false\n#define INVERT_E4_DIR false\n\n// @section homing\n\n//#define Z_HOMING_HEIGHT 4 // (in mm) Minimal z height before homing (G28) for Z clearance above the bed, clamps, ...\n // Be sure you have this distance over your Z_MAX_POS in case.\n\n// Direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN\n// :[-1,1]\n#define X_HOME_DIR -1\n#define Y_HOME_DIR -1\n#define Z_HOME_DIR -1\n\n// @section machine\n\n// Travel limits after homing (units are in mm)\n#define X_MIN_POS 0\n#define Y_MIN_POS 0\n#define Z_MIN_POS 0\n#define X_MAX_POS 230\n#define Y_MAX_POS 200\n#define Z_MAX_POS 200\n\n// If enabled, axes won't move below MIN_POS in response to movement commands.\n//#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS\n// If enabled, axes won't move above MAX_POS in response to movement commands.\n//#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS\n\n/**\n * Filament Runout Sensor\n * A mechanical or opto endstop is used to check for the presence of filament.\n *\n * RAMPS-based boards use SERVO3_PIN.\n * For other boards you may need to define FIL_RUNOUT_PIN.\n * By default the firmware assumes HIGH = has filament, LOW = ran out\n */\n//#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR\n#if ENABLED(FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR)\n #define FIL_RUNOUT_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the sensor.\n #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_FIL_RUNOUT // Uncomment to use internal pullup for filament runout pins if the sensor is defined.\n #define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SCRIPT \"\"M600\"\"\n#endif\n\n\",Greenonline,\"This sounds similar to Prusa i3 Z axis only goes down (even on up command) and My Prusa i3's z-axis will only go up. Please check the answers to those questions.\n\nThe usual cause of your problem is that you need to:\n\n\ninstall/configure the end stops, and;\nhome the Z-axis.\n\n\nYou say that you have already installed ad configured the end stops. Have you homed it yet, though?\n\nHowever, check your wiring first as it could just be a simple case of a loose or misplaced connection.\n\nAlso, something else to consider, if your stepper is making a grunting noise, and trying to move but can not, then maybe your stepper driver is not supplying enough current, or maybe too much. See my answer to Extruder stepper motor problem, what can be wrong?. Yes, the answer is for an extruder, but all steppers drivers can suffer the same mis-configuration.\n\",0.0,0.0\n4216,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Stefan,2.1782824847157594,4.865284901051866,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.551027839747059,Z-axis not moving up,\"I'm near the end of the build of a i3 MK2 clone and have run into a problem with the Z-axis motors. Specifically, the Z-axis will move down (and trigger the endstop) but it will only make a quick noise if I try to move it up.\n\nM119 shows all endstops open. Min software stops are currently disabled, as I try to set the printer up. Using Marlin 1.1.3 with a RAMPS 1.4. Both motors turn and I've even uncoupled the entire X-axis carriage.\n\nAdditional test: reversed the z-axis motor wires and they only go up. Inverted the motor direction in software and they also only go up.\n\nAny advice? I've definitely done a few searches but haven't solved the problem.\n\nConfig.h is as follows (clipped due to posting restrictions):\n\n//===========================================================================\n//============================== Endstop Settings ===========================\n//===========================================================================\n\n// @section homing\n\n// Specify here all the endstop connectors that are connected to any endstop or probe.\n// Almost all printers will be using one per axis. Probes will use one or more of the\n// extra connectors. Leave undefined any used for non-endstop and non-probe purposes.\n#define USE_XMIN_PLUG\n#define USE_YMIN_PLUG\n#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG\n//#define USE_XMAX_PLUG\n//#define USE_YMAX_PLUG\n//#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG\n\n// coarse Endstop Settings\n//#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors\n\n#if DISABLED(ENDSTOPPULLUPS)\n // fine endstop settings: Individual pullups. will be ignored if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN_PROBE\n#endif\n\n// Mechanical endstop with COM to ground and NC to Signal uses \"\"false\"\" here (most common setup).\n#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n#define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n#define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n#define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n#define Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the probe.\n\n// Enable this feature if all enabled endstop pins are interrupt-capable.\n// This will remove the need to poll the interrupt pins, saving many CPU cycles.\n//#define ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE\n\n//=============================================================================\n//============================== Movement Settings ============================\n//=============================================================================\n// @section motion\n\n/**\n * Default Settings\n *\n * These settings can be reset by M502\n *\n * Note that if EEPROM is enabled, saved values will override these.\n */\n\n/**\n * With this option each E stepper can have its own factors for the\n * following movement settings. If fewer factors are given than the\n * total number of extruders, the last value applies to the rest.\n */\n//#define DISTINCT_E_FACTORS\n\n/**\n * Default Axis Steps Per Unit (steps/mm)\n * Override with M92\n * X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]\n */\n#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 100, 100, 4000, 120 }\n\n/**\n * Default Max Feed Rate (mm/s)\n * Override with M203\n * X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]\n */\n#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 200, 200, 3, 25 }\n\n/**\n * Default Max Acceleration (change/s) change = mm/s\n * (Maximum start speed for accelerated moves)\n * Override with M201\n * X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]\n */\n#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION { 3000, 3000, 100, 10000 }\n\n/**\n * Default Acceleration (change/s) change = mm/s\n * Override with M204\n *\n * M204 P Acceleration\n * M204 R Retract Acceleration\n * M204 T Travel Acceleration\n */\n#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 3000 // X, Y, Z and E acceleration for printing moves\n#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 3000 // E acceleration for retracts\n#define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION 3000 // X, Y, Z acceleration for travel (non printing) moves\n\n/**\n * Default Jerk (mm/s)\n * Override with M205 X Y Z E\n *\n * \"\"Jerk\"\" specifies the minimum speed change that requires acceleration.\n * When changing speed and direction, if the difference is less than the\n * value set here, it may happen instantaneously.\n */\n#define DEFAULT_XJERK 10.0\n#define DEFAULT_YJERK 10.0\n#define DEFAULT_ZJERK 0.4\n#define DEFAULT_EJERK 2.0\n\n\n//===========================================================================\n//============================= Z Probe Options =============================\n//===========================================================================\n// @section probes\n\n//\n// See http://marlinfw.org/configuration/probes.html\n//\n\n/**\n * Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN\n *\n * Enable this option for a probe connected to the Z Min endstop pin.\n */\n#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN\n\n/**\n * Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP\n *\n * Enable this option for a probe connected to any pin except Z-Min.\n * (By default Marlin assumes the Z-Max endstop pin.)\n * To use a custom Z Probe pin, set Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN below.\n *\n * - The simplest option is to use a free endstop connector.\n * - Use 5V for powered (usually inductive) sensors.\n *\n * - RAMPS 1.3/1.4 boards may use the 5V, GND, and Aux4->D32 pin:\n * - For simple switches connect...\n * - normally-closed switches to GND and D32.\n * - normally-open switches to 5V and D32.\n *\n * WARNING: Setting the wrong pin may have unexpected and potentially\n * disastrous consequences. Use with caution and do your homework.\n *\n */\n//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP\n//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN Z_MAX_PIN\n\n/**\n * Probe Type\n *\n * Allen Key Probes, Servo Probes, Z-Sled Probes, FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE, etc.\n * You must activate one of these to use Auto Bed Leveling below.\n */\n\n/**\n * The \"\"Manual Probe\"\" provides a means to do \"\"Auto\"\" Bed Leveling without a probe.\n * Use G29 repeatedly, adjusting the Z height at each point with movement commands\n * or (with LCD_BED_LEVELING) the LCD controller.\n */\n//#define PROBE_MANUALLY\n\n/**\n * A Fix-Mounted Probe either doesn't deploy or needs manual deployment.\n * (e.g., an inductive probe or a nozzle-based probe-switch.)\n */\n#define FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE\n\n/**\n * Z Servo Probe, such as an endstop switch on a rotating arm.\n */\n//#define Z_ENDSTOP_SERVO_NR 0 // Defaults to SERVO 0 connector.\n//#define Z_SERVO_ANGLES {70,0} // Z Servo Deploy and Stow angles\n\n/**\n * The BLTouch probe uses a Hall effect sensor and emulates a servo.\n */\n//#define BLTOUCH\n#if ENABLED(BLTOUCH)\n //#define BLTOUCH_DELAY 375 // (ms) Enable and increase if needed\n#endif\n\n/**\n * Enable if probing seems unreliable. Heaters and/or fans - consistent with the\n * options selected below - will be disabled during probing so as to minimize\n * potential EM interference by quieting/silencing the source of the 'noise' (the change\n * in current flowing through the wires). This is likely most useful to users of the\n * BLTouch probe, but may also help those with inductive or other probe types.\n */\n//#define PROBING_HEATERS_OFF // Turn heaters off when probing\n//#define PROBING_FANS_OFF // Turn fans off when probing\n\n// A probe that is deployed and stowed with a solenoid pin (SOL1_PIN)\n//#define SOLENOID_PROBE\n\n// A sled-mounted probe like those designed by Charles Bell.\n//#define Z_PROBE_SLED\n//#define SLED_DOCKING_OFFSET 5 // The extra distance the X axis must travel to pickup the sled. 0 should be fine but you can push it further if you'd like.\n\n//\n// For Z_PROBE_ALLEN_KEY see the Delta example configurations.\n//\n\n/**\n * Z Probe to nozzle (X,Y) offset, relative to (0, 0).\n * X and Y offsets must be integers.\n *\n * In the following example the X and Y offsets are both positive:\n * #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10\n * #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10\n *\n * +-- BACK ---+\n * | |\n * L | (+) P | R <-- probe (20,20)\n * E | | I\n * F | (-) N (+) | G <-- nozzle (10,10)\n * T | | H\n * | (-) | T\n * | |\n * O-- FRONT --+\n * (0,0)\n */\n#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 22 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]\n#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 12 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]\n#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]\n\n// X and Y axis travel speed (mm/m) between probes\n#define XY_PROBE_SPEED 8000\n\n// Speed for the first approach when double-probing (with PROBE_DOUBLE_TOUCH)\n#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z\n\n// Speed for the \"\"accurate\"\" probe of each point\n#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_SLOW (Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST / 2)\n\n// Use double touch for probing\n//#define PROBE_DOUBLE_TOUCH\n\n/**\n * Z probes require clearance when deploying, stowing, and moving between\n * probe points to avoid hitting the bed and other hardware.\n * Servo-mounted probes require extra space for the arm to rotate.\n * Inductive probes need space to keep from triggering early.\n *\n * Use these settings to specify the distance (mm) to raise the probe (or\n * lower the bed). The values set here apply over and above any (negative)\n * probe Z Offset set with Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER, M851, or the LCD.\n * Only integer values >= 1 are valid here.\n *\n * Example: `M851 Z-5` with a CLEARANCE of 4 => 9mm from bed to nozzle.\n * But: `M851 Z+1` with a CLEARANCE of 2 => 2mm from bed to nozzle.\n */\n#define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE 10 // Z Clearance for Deploy/Stow\n#define Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES 5 // Z Clearance between probe points\n\n// For M851 give a range for adjusting the Z probe offset\n#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN -20\n#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX 20\n\n// Enable the M48 repeatability test to test probe accuracy\n//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_REPEATABILITY_TEST\n\n// For Inverting Stepper Enable Pins (Active Low) use 0, Non Inverting (Active High) use 1\n// :{ 0:'Low', 1:'High' }\n#define X_ENABLE_ON 0\n#define Y_ENABLE_ON 0\n#define Z_ENABLE_ON 0\n#define E_ENABLE_ON 0 // For all extruders\n\n// Disables axis stepper immediately when it's not being used.\n// WARNING: When motors turn off there is a chance of losing position accuracy!\n#define DISABLE_X false\n#define DISABLE_Y false\n#define DISABLE_Z false\n// Warn on display about possibly reduced accuracy\n//#define DISABLE_REDUCED_ACCURACY_WARNING\n\n// @section extruder\n\n#define DISABLE_E false // For all extruders\n#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_EXTRUDER true // Keep only the active extruder enabled.\n\n// @section machine\n\n// Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way.\n#define INVERT_X_DIR false\n#define INVERT_Y_DIR false\n#define INVERT_Z_DIR false\n\n// Enable this option for Toshiba stepper drivers\n//#define CONFIG_STEPPERS_TOSHIBA\n\n// @section extruder\n\n// For direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false.\n#define INVERT_E0_DIR false\n#define INVERT_E1_DIR false\n#define INVERT_E2_DIR false\n#define INVERT_E3_DIR false\n#define INVERT_E4_DIR false\n\n// @section homing\n\n//#define Z_HOMING_HEIGHT 4 // (in mm) Minimal z height before homing (G28) for Z clearance above the bed, clamps, ...\n // Be sure you have this distance over your Z_MAX_POS in case.\n\n// Direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN\n// :[-1,1]\n#define X_HOME_DIR -1\n#define Y_HOME_DIR -1\n#define Z_HOME_DIR -1\n\n// @section machine\n\n// Travel limits after homing (units are in mm)\n#define X_MIN_POS 0\n#define Y_MIN_POS 0\n#define Z_MIN_POS 0\n#define X_MAX_POS 230\n#define Y_MAX_POS 200\n#define Z_MAX_POS 200\n\n// If enabled, axes won't move below MIN_POS in response to movement commands.\n//#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS\n// If enabled, axes won't move above MAX_POS in response to movement commands.\n//#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS\n\n/**\n * Filament Runout Sensor\n * A mechanical or opto endstop is used to check for the presence of filament.\n *\n * RAMPS-based boards use SERVO3_PIN.\n * For other boards you may need to define FIL_RUNOUT_PIN.\n * By default the firmware assumes HIGH = has filament, LOW = ran out\n */\n//#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR\n#if ENABLED(FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR)\n #define FIL_RUNOUT_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the sensor.\n #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_FIL_RUNOUT // Uncomment to use internal pullup for filament runout pins if the sensor is defined.\n #define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SCRIPT \"\"M600\"\"\n#endif\n\n\",Stefan,\"UPDATE: Turns out to have been a faulty RAMPS. Replaced the card and made NO changes; z-axis is now behaving properly. Thank you all.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4220,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sterlingsilber,3.0576060275493275,6.550955581174357,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,\"Enclosure, things to pay attention to?\",\"I got an Anet A8 and want to build an enclosure for it. Since I'm currently only printing PLA, I would do it mainly for noise cancelling, because I have to run it in my room. I however want to have the possibility to upgrade it later with, say, an air filter etc., for example for ABS.\n\n\nWhat do I have to pay attention to? \nDo I need ventilation slits? \nWould you put the filament inside or run it through a small hole from the top? \nAny tips for making it especially noise cancelling? \nIs wood the right material?\n\n\",Greenonline,\"Sort of related, see the answers to:\n\n\nCommercially available 3D printer fume and UFP extractor, and;\nWhat are the best air filtration options for enclosures?\n\n\nAddressing your points in turn:\n\n\nVentilation - Probably not, as you want to keep the print warm. However, when printing with filaments where well ventilated conditions are recommended1, to prevent the build up of noxious fumes, from ABS for example, you would need (active) filtration, see this answer.\nFilament Placement - I have seen printers fully enclosed, including the filament. However, there is the potential issue, especially if using PLA, that if the temperature inside the enclosure reaches temperatures approaching those of a closed car, on a hot day, then the PLA filament could become damaged/melt, and not roll of the spool correctly. In that case, you could place the reel on to of the enclosure and feed it through a (small) hole in the top. Feeding it through the side, could add additional resistance to it being pulled from the reel, depending upon placement.\nNoise cancellation - Line the enclosure with non-flammable foam, or some other non-flammable noise cancelling lining\nMaterial - As Mark states in his answer, be extra careful of thermal runaway, as 3D printers run hot, and an enclosed printer, even hotter. Wood is the sort of material you probably want to avoid. Whilst it is cheap, and would probably work fine in most situations, in the case of an emergency (read, fire), then you are merely providing additional combustable material. It would be advisable to stick with an aluminium frame (non-combustable) and glass (non-combustable and insulating).\n\n\nAdditonal Points:\n\n\nElectronics - You may want to consider placing the electronics (i.e. controller board) outside the enclosure, as the RAMPS board generally likes to be kept as cool as possible (especially the stepper drivers).\nDisplay/Control - Along with the electronics, it could be a good idea to also place the LCD display, and conjoint control panel, outside the enclosure, so as to provide ease of access. You don't really want to have to keep removing/opening the enclosure to change a minor setting.\nAccess - Do you want a lift-off type enclosure, or have an access door? The latter is certainly more user friendly, or convenient.\nSturdiness - Do you want a light weight (flimsy?) enclosure, or a heavier, more robust, enclosure?\nSafety - An air-tight fire box could be worth considering.\n\n\nNote: After having stated that wood is not the best idea, it seems that IKEA tables are sometimes used, by stacking two on top of each other: New IKEA hack lets you create a 3D printer enclosure for cheap\n\n\n\n\n\nA safer bet is this delta printer enclosure, which is, essentially, a larger delta frame, made from aluminium extrusion and acrylic, enclosing a smaller delta printer:\n4 Simple Steps to Build Your Own 3D Printer Enclosure\n\n\n\nFor an example of a cheap, yet extremely flammable enclosure, made from plastic sheeting and piping, see How to build an enclosure for your 3D printer\n\n\n\n\n\n1 See Davo's comment.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n4220,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sterlingsilber,3.0576060275493275,6.550955581174357,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,\"Enclosure, things to pay attention to?\",\"I got an Anet A8 and want to build an enclosure for it. Since I'm currently only printing PLA, I would do it mainly for noise cancelling, because I have to run it in my room. I however want to have the possibility to upgrade it later with, say, an air filter etc., for example for ABS.\n\n\nWhat do I have to pay attention to? \nDo I need ventilation slits? \nWould you put the filament inside or run it through a small hole from the top? \nAny tips for making it especially noise cancelling? \nIs wood the right material?\n\n\",markshancock,\"Make sure and pay attention to safety. \n\nI have heard of more than one report of a RepRap printer going up in flames. On example of that is if the thermistor fails, or gets disconnected, and the controller puts the bed, or extruder, into thermal runaway.\n\nMake you make the enclosure out of a non-combustible material, so you don't add any fuel to the fire. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4227,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,MachuPichu,2.528907649931287,4.834964833819512,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Troubleshooting printing layer squashing?,\"I am having a strange intermittent printing error specific to one particular object I'm trying to print.\n\n\n\nMy printer is a BCN3D Sigma R17. I am printing a thin wall (0.6mm) cup object. I'm using:\n\n\nSimplify3D with Sigma Progen profiles\n0.6mm brass nozzle (w/thermal paste)\n0.1mm layer height\nSpiral (vase mode)\nFilaform PLA.\n\n\nAs you can see in the images, the first few layers print ok, but then the nozzle seems to collide/penetrate the previous layer and grinds against it as it moves around in a circle. The result is a combination of rough textured surface and good quality surface. One half of the print also seems to be thicker, presumably from the increased extrusion width caused by squashing layers in the z-axis. I’ve tried\n\n\nchanging model's wall thickness,\ndisabling spiral mode\nincreasing layer height\nchanging filament\nupgrading printer (latest stepper drivers)\nchanging extrusion width\nperforming full calibration\n\n\nAll without success. You can view the gcode and S3D fff profile here:\nhttps://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B6SnaYyiYI7vcGU1U3Uxb0RrX3M?usp=sharing\n\nThe image shows some filament left hanging from a stopped print. It seemed to be squeezed out from excess pressure, as if it was being blocked during the print due to being pushed against the layers.\n\",Markus Appel,\"I'd suggest you change the Flow (%).\n\nIt is usually at 100%, but can be adjusted.\nI'd suggest printing at 80%, and adjusting from there.\n\nLayer height, printing speed or other configurations always change the Extrusion Rate with it, because for example higher layers always require more material extruded at the same printing speed.\n\nHow it is done with your specific software, I cannot tell.\n\",0.0,0.0\n4227,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,MachuPichu,2.528907649931287,4.834964833819512,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Troubleshooting printing layer squashing?,\"I am having a strange intermittent printing error specific to one particular object I'm trying to print.\n\n\n\nMy printer is a BCN3D Sigma R17. I am printing a thin wall (0.6mm) cup object. I'm using:\n\n\nSimplify3D with Sigma Progen profiles\n0.6mm brass nozzle (w/thermal paste)\n0.1mm layer height\nSpiral (vase mode)\nFilaform PLA.\n\n\nAs you can see in the images, the first few layers print ok, but then the nozzle seems to collide/penetrate the previous layer and grinds against it as it moves around in a circle. The result is a combination of rough textured surface and good quality surface. One half of the print also seems to be thicker, presumably from the increased extrusion width caused by squashing layers in the z-axis. I’ve tried\n\n\nchanging model's wall thickness,\ndisabling spiral mode\nincreasing layer height\nchanging filament\nupgrading printer (latest stepper drivers)\nchanging extrusion width\nperforming full calibration\n\n\nAll without success. You can view the gcode and S3D fff profile here:\nhttps://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B6SnaYyiYI7vcGU1U3Uxb0RrX3M?usp=sharing\n\nThe image shows some filament left hanging from a stopped print. It seemed to be squeezed out from excess pressure, as if it was being blocked during the print due to being pushed against the layers.\n\",PR90,\"Although this reply is pretty late, there are some issues I would like to point out:\n\n\nIn the cup.gcode file there seems to be an issue with the layer height. The height for the second layer is larger than the third layer!\nIf you see that the cup prints good on one side (also thicker on one side), this is a good indication of a bed leveling issue. Although you indicate you did a full calibration, I would still re-check the bed leveling. The extruder head movement in the X-Y should be as closely parallel to the bed as possible.\nThe cooling settings in your Simplify3D profile are low. I would bump up the fan speed to ensure that the strand being laid down is sufficiently cooled to prevent overheating from subsequent loops.\nTry slowing down the Z-axis speed. Stepping too quickly can cause skipped steps depending on the acceleration settings and mass/inertia of the head.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4228,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sergey,1.0891412423578797,3.9369334896349293,2.7799718631987322,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How can I charge an Android phone while it's controlling my 3D printer?,\"I am writing a G-code sender for Android, but I have hit a snag.\nHow can I prevent the phone from discharging while it sending G-code to the printer?\n\nI have several Android phones and tablets and they have a micro USB OTG connector, which I can connect to my 3D printer using an adapter.\nBut it looks like OTG has this limitation - it can either accept power when in Device mode, or it can provide power in Host mode. So, while in Host mode the phone can't be charged, so I can't do long prints, which seems like an unreasonable limitation. \n\nAny ideas on how to solve this?\n\",Greenonline,\"See elsewhere on StackExchange:\n\n\nElectronics:\n\n\nCan an Android tablet serve as USB Host and be charged simultaneously through a single port?\n\nAndroid Enthusiasts\n\n\nUsing an OTG cable while charging\nUSB charging in host mode [duplicate]\n\n\n\nYou certainly can charge whilst in host mode, but some re-wiring will be required.\n\nFrom the SE.Electronics link\n\n\n Apparently it is possible to charge the Host-Device! -->\n http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_On-The-Go\n \n Under \"\"OTG Micro Plugs\"\" it says that a USB OTG cable with a 36.5 kΩ\n resistor between Pin 4 (I suppose its pin 4) and Pin 5 allows you to\n connect a B-Device (Slave) and (!) a Charger to the Smartphone/Tablet.\n The Phone and the B-Device can be supplied by the external power\n source.\n \n USB-Power Specifications:\n http://www.usb.org/developers/devclass_docs/batt_charging_1_1.zip\n\n\nand \n\n\n I just sifted through the docs because I didn't trust Wikipedia's implicit data on which of the three resistances I should use. Here you can find the official Battery Charging v1.2 Spec and Adopters Agreement: usb.org/developers/docs/devclass_docs In this case you want 124kΩ, because you want the OTG device (=tablet) to be the A device (=host). \n\n\nHere are the schematics:\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4230,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,litejk01,2.1782824847157594,4.458525285702728,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"Z axis OK during calibration, but WAY off on prints\",\"I have Anet A8 where I have changed the controller from the original to RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin 1.1.1 and ran into some strange issues with my Z axis.\n\nDoing calibration (10 mm cube, 10x10x20 mm, 10x10x30 mm) I am dead on the mm on the Z axis. (10 mm, 20 mm, 30 mm)\nBut when I print a part that is supposed to be 24 mm high, it comes out 27 mm high.\n\nWent back to print calibration 10x10x30, and Z axis is dead on 30 mm again.\n\nAlso printed a bracket that was supposed to be 240 mm high, ended up close to 270 mm.\n\nI am doing the same layer heights for all the prints (calibration cubes and otherwise). Starting with a 0.2 mm first layer and then 0.1 mm on all other layers. Using RepetierHost v. 1.6.2 with Slic3r v. 1.2.9\n\nAnyone experienced something like this?\n\",Greenonline,\"This was a comment from the OP, which effectively answers their own question:\n\nAfter:\n\n\nInstalling new Marlin 1.1.3;\nChanging the Maximum Acceleration on Z down to 20, and; \nChanging Acceleration and Retract Acceleration down to 1000.\n\n\nI have now a printout that measures 24.65 mm (0.65 mm higher than it should) and good enough for me to say, this is OK.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4235,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,drg,2.1782824847157594,5.00042849757503,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,What's smoother? Acetone treated PLA or ABS,\"From my understanding, both PLA and ABS can be treated with acetone to make them smoother. So when they are treated with acetone, which is smother PLA or ABS or are they about the same? \n\nWhen I search online, all I find is how to treat the objects. \n\",R3D34THR4Y,\"ABS filaments will smooth well with using acetone, it's been used for a while now.\n\nFor PLA filaments it's a different story, pure PLA will not smooth out in acetone and it will likely only cause structural failure of the product.\n\nHowever most PLA filaments aren't pure PLA, they contain additives including ABS that react differently when exposed to acetone and the reaction will really depend on the manufacturer of the filament, only a few PLA filaments are known to smooth like ABS when in an acetone vapor bath, it is the case for ColorFabb PLA filaments and it is absolutely not the case for bq PLA filaments that only soften and break when exposed to acetone.\n\nYou'll have to make small tests with different brands of filament to see which smooth well and which don't but if you want to go fast either go with ABS or use other smoothing techniques such as sanding + 3D print Smooth On epoxy.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n4236,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jesse Hammil,3.0576060275493275,5.209714976279804,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,1.8746593652159236,0.6444807912433421,First layer eventually sticks to the hotend and tears,\"I am at my wits end with this problem. I start a print and the skirt goes down fine, then the outline of the parts go down fine (usually) and then when it goes to fill in the first layer, it will always get stuck to the hotend at some point and rip apart the layer. \n\nAny ideas on how to solve this?\n\n\nPrinting PLA at 210°C;\nFirst layer temp is 225°C;\nBed temp at 60°C;\n1.75 mm filament, and;\n0.4 mm nozzle. \n\n\nMaker Select V2.1, using Cura to slice.\n\",Ecnerwal,\"Step Zero: is always to check/adjust the bed level - if the height over the bed varies while putting down the first layer, it's hard to ever get first layer settings that work.\n\nStep One: is to adjust your first layer settings - height, temperature, extrusion width until you find a set that work for your setup (knowing that they may change somewhat when you change filament.) Some folks find more success with thin first layers, others with a thicker first layer to pump more plastic, still others use the same layer height but increase the width to pump more plastic, and others combine these approaches. Increasing the temperature is common, though in my case I found that the \"\"usual\"\" +5°C was not enough for the present setup.\n\nYou can change one setting at a time and have an idea of what works better or worse in each case, or you can change lots of settings and hope you get lucky. I prefer the tedious approach, it's less maddening.\n\nAre you using any surface treatment on the bed? A bit of gluestick or hairspray may help you stick.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4236,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jesse Hammil,3.0576060275493275,5.209714976279804,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,1.8746593652159236,0.6444807912433421,First layer eventually sticks to the hotend and tears,\"I am at my wits end with this problem. I start a print and the skirt goes down fine, then the outline of the parts go down fine (usually) and then when it goes to fill in the first layer, it will always get stuck to the hotend at some point and rip apart the layer. \n\nAny ideas on how to solve this?\n\n\nPrinting PLA at 210°C;\nFirst layer temp is 225°C;\nBed temp at 60°C;\n1.75 mm filament, and;\n0.4 mm nozzle. \n\n\nMaker Select V2.1, using Cura to slice.\n\",TECTEC3 Studios,\"Try lowering your first layer temp to 205°C, and apply a gluestick to the bed before you print anything. By lowering the temp, this allows th plastic to cool faster, and doesn't risk the plastic sticking to the nozzle as much. Applying the glue stick will help the print to stick to the buildplate better, lowering the risk of it getting stuck to the nozzle. You might also want to try using a raft, as this will provide more surface area for the print to stick to the bed with, and lower the chances of it attaching to the nozzle.\n\",-1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4242,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Daykray,2.528907649931287,4.433748719866763,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Z axis issue with Ramps 1.4,\"I just installed a Ramps 1.4 board on to my Anet A8. Everything worked as it should except for the Z axis motors. The Ramps board I have contains two headers for each Z axis motor. \n\nWhen both motors are connected, one of the motors squeals like something awful. When I disconnect one motor it turns smooth as butter. I have tried this for both motors and when only one is connected it works as it should but does not with both. \n\nHas anyone experienced this? Is there a simple remedy for this issue? Any help is appreciated. \n\",Daykray,\"Found the issue. The steps were set way to high. I lowered my steps to 500 and the steppers seem to perform as they should. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4251,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Daykray,3.0576060275493275,5.496502497490805,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.104288080884247,Nozzle jumps off the bed when using Marlin Mesh Bed Leveling,\"I am using Marlin firmware with a RAMPS board on an Anet A8 printer. \n\nThe bed size for the printer is 220 x 220 mm and that is stated in the configuration.h file. When using mesh bed leveling, the nozzle jumps to the first corner on the bed perfectly after setting the x-min to 5.0 but the next two points are off the end of the bed. Here are my settings: \n\n// Travel limits after homing (units are in mm)\n\n #define X_MIN_POS 5.0\n #define Y_MIN_POS 0.0\n #define Z_MIN_POS 0\n #define X_MAX_POS 220\n #define Y_MAX_POS 220\n #define Z_MAX_POS 240\n\n\nWhat could be my issue? \n\",Kemal SENYILMAZ,\"The problem is in the code.\nPlease use these:\n\n// The size of the print bed\n#define X_BED_SIZE 220\n#define Y_BED_SIZE 220\n\n// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.\n#define X_MIN_POS 5\n#define Y_MIN_POS 0\n#define Z_MIN_POS 0\n#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE\n#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE\n#define Z_MAX_POS 240\n\n\nYour problem will be ok.\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4251,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Daykray,3.0576060275493275,5.496502497490805,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.104288080884247,Nozzle jumps off the bed when using Marlin Mesh Bed Leveling,\"I am using Marlin firmware with a RAMPS board on an Anet A8 printer. \n\nThe bed size for the printer is 220 x 220 mm and that is stated in the configuration.h file. When using mesh bed leveling, the nozzle jumps to the first corner on the bed perfectly after setting the x-min to 5.0 but the next two points are off the end of the bed. Here are my settings: \n\n// Travel limits after homing (units are in mm)\n\n #define X_MIN_POS 5.0\n #define Y_MIN_POS 0.0\n #define Z_MIN_POS 0\n #define X_MAX_POS 220\n #define Y_MAX_POS 220\n #define Z_MAX_POS 240\n\n\nWhat could be my issue? \n\",0scar,\"\n\nNone of the answers address your question to solve it! The only sensible contribution comes from a comment of @TomvanderZanden.\n\n\n\nFor the sensor to stay within the limits of the bed (considering the offset of the sensor and the size of the hotend carriage) you need to define where the sensor (plus carriage) may go to (to keep the sensor also on the bed, you also need to define the sensor limits). The suggested constants are important in defining the size of the bed and the build volume, but changing them does in fact do not solve your problem. Your problem is that you need to address where the sensor may probe within that specified volume i.e. the sensor probing area.\n\nI use ABL (Auto Bel Leveling) on my Anet A8 using a left-front mounted sensor at position (x = -26 mm; y = -40 mm seen from the nozzle center). In order to have the sensor on the bed area without running into the limits of the carriage, you have to calculate (yourself!) what the dimension of the auto bed leveling area is. This is because the sensor is off set from the nozzle. If the sensor reaches for the whole bed, you need extra space on the axis. To explain this, if your sensor is at the left front, as in my case, the amount of extra space you have left on the right side of the X carriage will determine how far the carriage may go and thus limits the right probe position. If there is no extra space on the carriage (the safest assumption) you just need to add the sensor offset to the maximum bed size (what the nozzle can reach). E.g. my probe X offset is -26 mm. The maximum probe distance is therefore -26 mm + 220 mm = 194 mm.\n\nThis means that you need to set the following constants (amongst the settings to enable ABL; the probe and the type of leveling...) in the configuration.h of your Marlin Firmware installation:\n\n#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -26 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]\n#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -40 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]\n\n// Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).\n#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (0 + 10) // 10\n#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (220 - 26 - 10) // 184\n#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (220 - 40 - 10) // 170\n#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (0 + 10) // 10\n\n\nFurthermore the settings you do mention need to be:\n\n// The size of the print bed\n#define X_BED_SIZE 220\n#define Y_BED_SIZE 220\n\n// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.\n#define X_MIN_POS -33 // Distance from end switch to X = 0 of origin\n#define Y_MIN_POS -10 // Distance from end switch to Y = 0 of origin\n#define Z_MIN_POS 0\n#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE\n#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE\n#define Z_MAX_POS 240\n\n\nThe -33 and the -10 define how much the nozzle needs to travel from the endstop position to the print origin! This is not necessary to change when using ABL with a sensor (unless you are using a different print head carriage with a different center of the nozzle). Why these values are -33 and -10 (or values close to this; e.g. for my printer they are -36 and -8) is explained in this answer.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n4350,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Daykray,2.528907649931287,4.559226050292909,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,SkyNet3D firmware home settings,\"I recently installed SkyNet3D V1.1 on my Anet A8 printer. When I prepare the printer and select \"\"auto home\"\" it moves the head close to the upper right hand side of the bed. How do I change these settings so the printer auto homes to the center of the bed? Any help is appreciated. \n\",0scar,\"Please note that Skynet3D is OBSOLETE, this was a fork from Marlin Firmware that was created to support the \"\"odd\"\" displays (due to alternative pin layout) Anet use on their printers and has been completely integrated in Marlin.\n\n\n\nNote that homing is used to hit the end stops to determine the positioning of the head. There is no such thing as homing in the center of the bed (apart from the Z-axis). How would the head know where it is just after switching the printer on?\n\nWhen using the constant:\n\n#define Z_SAFE_HOMING\n\n\nthe printer is instructed to move the head to (in this case to the middle of the bed):\n\n#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT (X_BED_SIZE / 2) // X point for Z homing when homing all axis (G28).\n#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT (Y_BED_SIZE / 2) // Y point for Z homing when homing all axis (G28).\n\n\nafter sending the G28 homing command.\n\nBasically it wil home X and Y, then move to the instructed position (in the example the middle of the bed) and then home Z.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4247,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R3D34THR4Y,1.0891412423578797,3.040452265895426,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Upscaling a reprap,\"I've been 3D printing for almost 4 years. Now that I have an M180, my RepRapPro Huxley is collecting dust as I only use it for flexible prints and ABS prints as it handles them better than the M180 does.\n\nI was wondering, since everything is open source in it and hardware-wise most open style Y carriage bed 3D printers are the same, would it be possible to make a 500 * 500 * 300 printer using the hardware from this printer?\n\nSince the carriage system isn't that good, I would replace it with solid machined aluminium rails and the heat bed would be made out of four Prusa I3 HB, which would only require me to add a PC PSU to power the whole thing and some MOSFETs to handle the load. I would be salvaging the board, the steppers, the endstops and extruder assembly basically. \n\nWould such a setup be worth it?\n\nWould the steppers have to handle more load?\n\",markshancock,\"To your three questions:\n\n\n\"\".. would it be possible to make a 500 * 500 * 300 printer using the hardware from this printer?\"\" - YES\n\"\"Would such a setup be worth it?\"\" - Only you could determine that. It would quite a bit of work; but, if you enjoy making things it would likely be a fun accomplishment.\n\"\"Would the steppers have to handle more load?\"\" - X and Y axis don't fight gravity so the the only force you fight is friction and accel/decel. If you keep with a low friction design then you will just need to limit the accel and decel to what the motors can handle. Regarding Z, this depends on your design, if you stick with the standard lead screw approach then the motor power required really isn't affected by the height. \n\n\nTwo thing to note about larger printers:\n\n\nIt takes a LONG time to make a large object. Make sure you consider this in the design as you probably won't be able to be there the whole time. Design with fire prevention in mind.\nTall lead screws increase the risk of Z-axis wobble. Make sure your consider this. You will need VERY strait lead screws. If you are going to capture both ends of the lead screw, use flex couplings.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4256,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hadi Barak,3.0576060275493275,5.535002146027291,2.7799718631987322,5.199501240805782,2.746326330407206,2.453507803626381,How can I add auto bed leveling before print?,\"I want to add auto bed leveling before each print. When I enable auto bed level in configuration.h, it only shows auto bed in menu. I found this code in cardreader.cpp\n\nvoid CardReader::openAndPrintFile(const char *name) {\n char cmd[4 + strlen(name) + 1]; // Room for \"\"M23 \"\", filename, and null\n sprintf_P(cmd, PSTR(\"\"M23 %s\"\"), name);\n for (char *c = &cmd[4]; *c; c++) *c = tolower(*c);\n enqueue_and_echo_command(cmd);\n enqueue_and_echo_commands_P(PSTR(\"\"M24\"\"));\n}\n\n\nand changed it to\n\nvoid CardReader::openAndPrintFile(const char *name) {\n char cmd[4 + strlen(name) + 1]; // Room for \"\"M23 \"\", filename, and null\n sprintf_P(cmd, PSTR(\"\"M23 %s\"\"), name);\n for (char *c = &cmd[4]; *c; c++) *c = tolower(*c);\n enqueue_and_echo_command(\"\"G28\"\");\n enqueue_and_echo_command(\"\"G29\"\");\n enqueue_and_echo_command(cmd);\n enqueue_and_echo_commands_P(PSTR(\"\"M24\"\"));\n}\n\n\nNow before each print, the printer does auto bedding two times but when print starts the auto bedding is ignored and printer acts like before doing auto bed.\n\nPlease help me solve this.\n\nI'm using Marlin Firmware 1.1.0.\n\",0scar,\"Another answer that does exactly what you want involves the use of a print server. A print server is an application that runs the instructions to the printer over a USB connection from another device, this can be your computer/laptop, or a dedicated Raspberry Pi (a small and affordable computer). One such application described here further is OctoPrint (this may very well be done with other applications, but this needs to be checked first!), this print server application allows integration of many third party plug-ins next to the extensive feature set it already has out-of-the-box. One such feature is GCODE scripts (intently spelled this way to match the option in the Octoprint settings menu); this screenshot shows some details:\n\n\n\nAs can be seen from the image, there are specific \"\"events\"\" available to process G-code commands at specific event occurences like e.g. just before the print starts. You could use that envent to insert your leveling commands.\n\n\n\nPlease note that in the image you will find strange G-code commands like OCTO100 and OCTO110 which is a feature of the plugin called \"\"GCODE System Commands\"\" which allows running shell scripts to schedule the fan. I just kill the power to the fan when the printer is idle to get rid of the noise when the printer is just idling, the fan is only needed when the hotend is at elevated temperature.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4256,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hadi Barak,3.0576060275493275,5.535002146027291,2.7799718631987322,5.199501240805782,2.746326330407206,2.453507803626381,How can I add auto bed leveling before print?,\"I want to add auto bed leveling before each print. When I enable auto bed level in configuration.h, it only shows auto bed in menu. I found this code in cardreader.cpp\n\nvoid CardReader::openAndPrintFile(const char *name) {\n char cmd[4 + strlen(name) + 1]; // Room for \"\"M23 \"\", filename, and null\n sprintf_P(cmd, PSTR(\"\"M23 %s\"\"), name);\n for (char *c = &cmd[4]; *c; c++) *c = tolower(*c);\n enqueue_and_echo_command(cmd);\n enqueue_and_echo_commands_P(PSTR(\"\"M24\"\"));\n}\n\n\nand changed it to\n\nvoid CardReader::openAndPrintFile(const char *name) {\n char cmd[4 + strlen(name) + 1]; // Room for \"\"M23 \"\", filename, and null\n sprintf_P(cmd, PSTR(\"\"M23 %s\"\"), name);\n for (char *c = &cmd[4]; *c; c++) *c = tolower(*c);\n enqueue_and_echo_command(\"\"G28\"\");\n enqueue_and_echo_command(\"\"G29\"\");\n enqueue_and_echo_command(cmd);\n enqueue_and_echo_commands_P(PSTR(\"\"M24\"\"));\n}\n\n\nNow before each print, the printer does auto bedding two times but when print starts the auto bedding is ignored and printer acts like before doing auto bed.\n\nPlease help me solve this.\n\nI'm using Marlin Firmware 1.1.0.\n\",Nikkoura,\"Rather than modifying the firmware to handle this, have you considered a pre-processing script on your computer, greping for a G29 in the G-code, then adding a G28/G29 pair at the start of the file if no G29 is found?\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n4259,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,seer.the,2.8153892694839717,5.4401824197119355,0.0,5.199501240805782,3.548335113978322,2.5570684596094884,Can I print in wax?,\"I'd like to start 3d printing in wax.\n\nIs there a reasonably priced 3d printer that is capable of it?\n\nAm I right in assuming that all I need is to make my own filament and set extruder temperature correctly, or do I miss something?\n\",morevitamins,\"Should be easy to do it in low temperatures, also check for moldlay filament.\n\nWax is indeed useful for lost-wax casting method.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4259,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,seer.the,2.8153892694839717,5.4401824197119355,0.0,5.199501240805782,3.548335113978322,2.5570684596094884,Can I print in wax?,\"I'd like to start 3d printing in wax.\n\nIs there a reasonably priced 3d printer that is capable of it?\n\nAm I right in assuming that all I need is to make my own filament and set extruder temperature correctly, or do I miss something?\n\",iFreilicht,\"Yes, you can. But no, you don't need to make your own filament for it, there is one called Print2Cast that you can buy for about 50$/kg.\n\nThis filament has the following recommended slicing settings:\n\n\nExtrusion temperature: 140°C-150°C\nBed temperature: 80°-90°C\nShells: 2-3 (for most models)\nPrint speed: 20 to 70mm/s\n\n\nThere are, however, a few more things to look out for when printing with wax, as it is very soft.\n\nThe most important issue is the grip of the extruder wheel. See if other people have used your printer/extruder with flexible filaments. If they were successful in doing that, there's a high chance a wax print will succeed as well.\n\nBed adhesion might also be an issue. MachinableWax.com recommend 6 coats of hair spray on a glass bed, letting each of them dry before adding the next.\n\nCooling is also important, as with many filaments. You'll probably have to experiment with that a little as either too much or too little can ruin your print.\n\",3.0411126502294303,0.0\n4263,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sergey Kravchenko,2.8153892694839717,5.628985838500857,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Auto leveling with Marlin and RAMPS 1.4 does not work,\"I configured Marlin 1.1.3 for auto-leveling with a fix mounted sensor connected to the Z end-stop pin.\n\nI have the following settings in my config:\n\n#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 25 \n#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 20 \n#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]\n\n#define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE 10 // Z Clearance for Deploy/Stow\n#define Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES 5 // Z Clearance between probe points\n\n#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR\n\n#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 7\n#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X\n\n// The Z probe minimum outer margin (to validate G29 parameters).\n#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 10\n\n// Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).\n#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 25\n#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 150\n#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30\n#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 180\n\n\nI enter M111 S38 to enable LEVELING+INFO+ERROR debugging.\nThen I enter G28 to home all axes and then enter G29 to start auto-leveling.\n\nThe auto-leveling starts successfully and after finishing I see the scan grid in console:\n\n12:41:35.983 : Bilinear Leveling Grid:\n12:41:35.983 : 0 1 2 3 4 5 6\n12:41:35.983 : 0 -3.127 -3.405 -3.405 -3.292 -3.595 -3.487 -3.537\n12:41:35.983 : 1 -3.110 -3.367 -3.337 -3.220 -3.470 -3.350 -3.365\n12:41:35.983 : 2 -3.138 -3.367 -3.330 -3.215 -3.442 -3.345 -3.385\n12:41:35.984 : 3 -3.013 -3.225 -3.182 -3.047 -3.225 -3.132 -3.150\n12:41:35.984 : 4 -2.970 -3.165 -3.097 -2.972 -3.160 -3.045 -3.065\n12:41:35.984 : 5 -2.875 -3.075 -3.005 -2.847 -2.990 -2.872 -2.875\n12:41:35.984 : 6 -2.680 -2.845 -2.755 -2.615 -2.753 -2.617 -2.622\n12:41:35.985 : G29 uncorrected Z:10.00\n12:41:35.985 : corrected Z:12.85\n12:41:35.985 : <<< gcode_G29\n12:41:35.985 : X:120.00 Y:160.00 Z:12.85 E:0.00 Count X:9600 Y:12800 Z:4000\n12:41:35.985 : current_position=(120.00, 160.00, 12.85) : sync_plan_position\n\n\nSo the auto-leveling scanning seems to be successful.\n\nHere is a visual of the leveling grid (but upside down to make it easier to view):\n\n\n\nNaturally I DO NOT enter G28 after the scanning. \n\nI enter G0 Z1 to down nozzle almost to table. But when I enter for example G0 X25 Y30 and look at level and then I enter G0 X150 Y150 I see the big difference between nozzle levels relatively to table. So it seems that height compensation does not work. I expect that Z axis would lift up or down depending on auto-leveling results but Z motor do not work when I move X/Y. \n\nBy the way I tried 3 point autoleveling. It was pretty rough but Z axis corrected it's level when I moved axes using G0 commands.\nAnd to avoid questions \"\"why my table is inclined so much?\"\" I deliberately inclined the table to be sure that auto leveling works. By the way, I tried different Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER so the current 0 setting is not actual but situation is the same with any value of this option.\n\nWhat I am doing wrong?\n\",Sergey Kravchenko,\"Bed leveling is disabled by default. So the mesh was scanned but is not apllied after G29 command. To apply the mesh we need to enable bed leveling using \n\nM420 S1 \n\n\ncommand\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4263,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sergey Kravchenko,2.8153892694839717,5.628985838500857,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Auto leveling with Marlin and RAMPS 1.4 does not work,\"I configured Marlin 1.1.3 for auto-leveling with a fix mounted sensor connected to the Z end-stop pin.\n\nI have the following settings in my config:\n\n#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 25 \n#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 20 \n#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]\n\n#define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE 10 // Z Clearance for Deploy/Stow\n#define Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES 5 // Z Clearance between probe points\n\n#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR\n\n#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 7\n#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X\n\n// The Z probe minimum outer margin (to validate G29 parameters).\n#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 10\n\n// Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).\n#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 25\n#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 150\n#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30\n#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 180\n\n\nI enter M111 S38 to enable LEVELING+INFO+ERROR debugging.\nThen I enter G28 to home all axes and then enter G29 to start auto-leveling.\n\nThe auto-leveling starts successfully and after finishing I see the scan grid in console:\n\n12:41:35.983 : Bilinear Leveling Grid:\n12:41:35.983 : 0 1 2 3 4 5 6\n12:41:35.983 : 0 -3.127 -3.405 -3.405 -3.292 -3.595 -3.487 -3.537\n12:41:35.983 : 1 -3.110 -3.367 -3.337 -3.220 -3.470 -3.350 -3.365\n12:41:35.983 : 2 -3.138 -3.367 -3.330 -3.215 -3.442 -3.345 -3.385\n12:41:35.984 : 3 -3.013 -3.225 -3.182 -3.047 -3.225 -3.132 -3.150\n12:41:35.984 : 4 -2.970 -3.165 -3.097 -2.972 -3.160 -3.045 -3.065\n12:41:35.984 : 5 -2.875 -3.075 -3.005 -2.847 -2.990 -2.872 -2.875\n12:41:35.984 : 6 -2.680 -2.845 -2.755 -2.615 -2.753 -2.617 -2.622\n12:41:35.985 : G29 uncorrected Z:10.00\n12:41:35.985 : corrected Z:12.85\n12:41:35.985 : <<< gcode_G29\n12:41:35.985 : X:120.00 Y:160.00 Z:12.85 E:0.00 Count X:9600 Y:12800 Z:4000\n12:41:35.985 : current_position=(120.00, 160.00, 12.85) : sync_plan_position\n\n\nSo the auto-leveling scanning seems to be successful.\n\nHere is a visual of the leveling grid (but upside down to make it easier to view):\n\n\n\nNaturally I DO NOT enter G28 after the scanning. \n\nI enter G0 Z1 to down nozzle almost to table. But when I enter for example G0 X25 Y30 and look at level and then I enter G0 X150 Y150 I see the big difference between nozzle levels relatively to table. So it seems that height compensation does not work. I expect that Z axis would lift up or down depending on auto-leveling results but Z motor do not work when I move X/Y. \n\nBy the way I tried 3 point autoleveling. It was pretty rough but Z axis corrected it's level when I moved axes using G0 commands.\nAnd to avoid questions \"\"why my table is inclined so much?\"\" I deliberately inclined the table to be sure that auto leveling works. By the way, I tried different Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER so the current 0 setting is not actual but situation is the same with any value of this option.\n\nWhat I am doing wrong?\n\",Everett Wenzel,\"In additional to Sergey's answer M420 S1 should be put into custom start GCODE. By default marlin disables autobed after G28 unless specifically configured otherwise\n\n/**\n* Normally G28 leaves leveling disabled on completion. Enable\n* this option to have G28 restore the prior leveling state.\n*/\n#define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4267,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Andrew Marzban,2.528907649931287,5.008646609607464,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Using a MakerBot Replicator 1 dual (or clone like FlashForge Creator) with Cura,\"I have a Monoprice architect which is a barebones clone of the FlashForge Creator Pro, or Replicator 1 Dual. I have upgraded the power supply and added a heated bed and, after getting fed up with MakerBot software, I've started using Cura to slice then post process with GPX.\n\nI did a lot of searching and finally found someone who posted their start and end G-code for this particular printer. The only catch is that his code only works on version 15.04.\n\nDon't get me wrong, 15.04 is a huge upgrade compared to MakerWare. But, I would really like to start using a newer version like 2.5 or anything relatively new.\n\nHere is the start code I found. I have tried it in 2.5 with error in post processing. Any help is appreciated!!\n\n; -- START GCODE --\nM136 ; start build\nM73 P0\nG90 ; absolute coordinates\n;\n; set temperatures and assert Vref\nM140 S{print_bed_temperature}\nM104 S{print_temperature} T0\nG130 X118 Y118 A118 B118 ; set stepper motor Vref to defaults\n; let the Z stepper vref stay at eeprom level (probably 40)\n;\n; home and recall eeprom home position\nT0 ; home on the right nozzle\nG28 X Y Z ; home all axes at homing speed\nG92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 B0 ; set all coords to 0 for now\nG1 Z5 F500 ; move Z 5mm away so we can carefully hit the limit switch\nG161 Z F100 ; home Z slowly\nM132 X Y Z ; recall stored home offsets for XYZ axes\n;\n; wait for heat up\nG1 X110 Y-72 Z30 F3300 ; move to waiting position\nM116 ; wait for temps\n;\n; purge and wipe\nG92 E0 ; set current extruder position as 0 so that E15 below makes sense\nG1 X110 Y-70 Z0.2 F2400.0 ; move to just on the bed\nG1 X110 Y70 E15 F1200.000 ; extrude a line of filament along the right edge of the bed\nG92 E0 ; set E to 0 again because the slicer's next extrusion is relative to this 0\n;\n; Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}\n; Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}\n; Print time: {print_time}\n; Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g\n; Filament cost: {filament_cost}\n; -- end of START GCODE --\n\n\",Janice Abernethy,\"Why not download Flashprint by Flashforge and try using it with your printer?\n\nFlashprint by Flashforge creates X3G files, therefore not requiring the conversion from GPX to X3G. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4267,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Andrew Marzban,2.528907649931287,5.008646609607464,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Using a MakerBot Replicator 1 dual (or clone like FlashForge Creator) with Cura,\"I have a Monoprice architect which is a barebones clone of the FlashForge Creator Pro, or Replicator 1 Dual. I have upgraded the power supply and added a heated bed and, after getting fed up with MakerBot software, I've started using Cura to slice then post process with GPX.\n\nI did a lot of searching and finally found someone who posted their start and end G-code for this particular printer. The only catch is that his code only works on version 15.04.\n\nDon't get me wrong, 15.04 is a huge upgrade compared to MakerWare. But, I would really like to start using a newer version like 2.5 or anything relatively new.\n\nHere is the start code I found. I have tried it in 2.5 with error in post processing. Any help is appreciated!!\n\n; -- START GCODE --\nM136 ; start build\nM73 P0\nG90 ; absolute coordinates\n;\n; set temperatures and assert Vref\nM140 S{print_bed_temperature}\nM104 S{print_temperature} T0\nG130 X118 Y118 A118 B118 ; set stepper motor Vref to defaults\n; let the Z stepper vref stay at eeprom level (probably 40)\n;\n; home and recall eeprom home position\nT0 ; home on the right nozzle\nG28 X Y Z ; home all axes at homing speed\nG92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 B0 ; set all coords to 0 for now\nG1 Z5 F500 ; move Z 5mm away so we can carefully hit the limit switch\nG161 Z F100 ; home Z slowly\nM132 X Y Z ; recall stored home offsets for XYZ axes\n;\n; wait for heat up\nG1 X110 Y-72 Z30 F3300 ; move to waiting position\nM116 ; wait for temps\n;\n; purge and wipe\nG92 E0 ; set current extruder position as 0 so that E15 below makes sense\nG1 X110 Y-70 Z0.2 F2400.0 ; move to just on the bed\nG1 X110 Y70 E15 F1200.000 ; extrude a line of filament along the right edge of the bed\nG92 E0 ; set E to 0 again because the slicer's next extrusion is relative to this 0\n;\n; Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}\n; Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}\n; Print time: {print_time}\n; Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g\n; Filament cost: {filament_cost}\n; -- end of START GCODE --\n\n\",Andrew Marzban,\"Thanks for everyone's help. So after playing around with the G-Code and trying to set the temperatures manually, I came across a post by a user who said that Cura will automatically include code for the temperatures regardless of your g-code. So I deleted the m140 and m104 lines and now it works great!\n\nI am also going to take a second to rant about how difficult it is to find information on this g-code business. It seems that the language, which should be standardized, is different depending on the slicer that you use. What is the deal?\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4272,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Johan Potums,1.726248027126092,3.4603828048255023,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Scale down SketchUp live size object does not render completely,\"I got a life size model of a signaling post (trains) where I scale it down to 1/87 model (in SketchUp). When I send the model to my 3D printer (with Cura 2.4) some parts of the model are lost in translation even when their dimensions exceed the printer minimal dimension of 0.7 mm. \n\nIs this a known problem of Cura or is something else at hand?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"You will indeed have difficulties with scaling a model to the point that individual components become smaller than the tolerances of your printer.\n\nIt is more likely a problem with your model, having been created in SketchUp. If you use an online model repair service, it will almost certainly return an indication that the model was flawed. Unfortunately, those repair services are not a good choice for repairing a SketchUp model, as the fail points are usually beyond the capability of the software.\n\nAnother option would be to load the model into MeshMixer and use Analysis/Inspector to reveal the flaws, but again, the automatic repair feature would likely destroy the model.\n\nEven a program as simplistic as TinkerCAD will do a better job of creating a 3D printable model.\n\nConsider to begin learning a different, perhaps more challenging program such as OpenSCAD or Solvespace, or even more challenging than those, Fusion 360. All of the above are free, while Fusion 360 has the requirement of non-commercial/hobbyist use to remain free.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4272,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Johan Potums,1.726248027126092,3.4603828048255023,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Scale down SketchUp live size object does not render completely,\"I got a life size model of a signaling post (trains) where I scale it down to 1/87 model (in SketchUp). When I send the model to my 3D printer (with Cura 2.4) some parts of the model are lost in translation even when their dimensions exceed the printer minimal dimension of 0.7 mm. \n\nIs this a known problem of Cura or is something else at hand?\n\",markshancock,\"I don't think Cura is really the problem.\n\nI have heard a lot of comments that Sketchup often produces stl files that do no slice well (do to geometry errors). Scaling the model (especially by a huge factor like 1/87 is going to exacerbate that problem.\n\nThere are several things you can do to reduce the problem. Here is an article on how to 3D Printing with SketchUp Itt has some really good pointers. Remember that if you are scaling down, the minimums it mentioned will need to be much larger to account for the scaling.\n\nYou could also try using MeshMixer to fix and scale the stl file before importing it into Cura.\n\nAs @fred_dot_u indicated, the better option would be to move from Sketchup to a CAD program that works better with 3D printing. I use Fustion360 (and so does my 15yo son who learned it really quickly from YouTube videos.\n\nIf you decide to go that route, here is an article on how to Import your Sketchup Model into Fusion 360.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4280,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,André Popovitch,1.0891412423578797,4.274697330876248,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Which 3D printer should I use to make custom miniatures for a tabletop game?,\"I would also be curious on how I could get the best results with these printers. I am in a situation where I have cheap access to a:\n\nFortus 250mc, which prints in ABS and has a minimum resolution of 0.007mm (but that can be raised as high as 0.013mm to print faster), and has a \"\"Soluble Support System\"\" which enables printing overhangs. \n\nForm 2, which prints with Photosensitive Resin, has a resolution of .05mm, and can also print overhangs. \n\nStratasys Dimension SST1200es, prints in \"\"ABSplus\"\" (whatever that is), has a resolution of .254 mm, and can indeed print overhangs. As far as I can tell the main advantage of this one over the Fortus is that the supports can be immediately removed after printing and don't need to be dissolved first.\n\nI am okay with processing or finishing the miniatures later so long as it's not too time consuming (such as by running an acetone vapor bath), but I'm curious when I would use each printer and how I could get the most out of both. \n\nP.S. Also the Stratasys is more expensive for me to print on than any of the others so please keep that in mind when answering :)\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The Form 2 will definitely give the best results for your application.\n\nBoth the Fortus and the Dimension use FDM, which builds the model up using a bead of molten plastic. Because this bead is typically 0.5mm in diameter, this strongly limits the details you can print.\n\nThe Form 2 uses liquid resin, that is cured by scanning it with a laser. This process is called SLA. The laser produces a 0.14mm dot, and so you can produce much finer details. The Form 2 can also use much thinner layers (down to 0.025mm v.s. the 0.178mm of the Fortus) so the models will be much smoother.\n\nTo make small miniatures SLA is much more suitable than FDM.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4283,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ryan Knopp,1.726248027126092,4.028319421555711,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,3D printing bed size and selecting models,\"I was thinking of getting the MonoPrice Mini 3D v2 printer. I know the bed is kind of small. \n\nHow would I know what I could print from Thingiverse? They don't really state what the bed size should be. \n\nDoes the software fix this for you? Do you scale it? \n\",markshancock,\"\nYes, objects in thingiverse usually doesn't include their size and this can require extra effort to obtain.\nThere are several options to scale objects to fit your printer. You can often do that in the slicer or using a separate program like meshmixer.\nThe bed size is not the only (or maybe even primary) limitation you will need to consider when printing an object. You also need to think of your max height, nozzle size and for your choice of material your will need to consider things like you max extruder and bed temperatures (or even have a heated bed), nozzle type, etc.\nYou should be able to print just about anything on thingiverse; but, the limitations of your printer will affect HOW you will have to print it and whether you will be happy with the final product.\n\n\nI have heard of plenty of people the have smaller printers and it was the right place for them to start. Having a smaller printer that performs well for you will be a much better experience than a larger printer that performs poorly.\n\nWhether the Monoprice Mini 3D v2 printer is the best printer is something only you can decide. Read and watch the reviews, they can be a great source of \"\"perspective\"\". I know we all have limited budgets and there are certainly way more things you can print with a printer than you can without one.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n4291,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tomer,2.1782824847157594,5.252973931119917,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.1827783713261073,1.0718911890698015,Convert an STL model to a two-extruder model,\"I have an STL file from thingiverse. The model is of a rectangular lid with an engraving. I would like to print it using two different colors, so that the engraving would be in a different color than the lid base. In the model description, the creator explained that he simply switched the material mid printing.\n\nHowever, I have a two-extruder printer, and I'd like to utilize it for this printing. What's the easiest way (tool) to select a part of the model and define that it should be printed using a different color?\n\",Davo,\"You can also preview the gcode rendering layer by layer (if your software allows this), and insert a toolchange command at the layer where you want to switch colors.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4291,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tomer,2.1782824847157594,5.252973931119917,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.1827783713261073,1.0718911890698015,Convert an STL model to a two-extruder model,\"I have an STL file from thingiverse. The model is of a rectangular lid with an engraving. I would like to print it using two different colors, so that the engraving would be in a different color than the lid base. In the model description, the creator explained that he simply switched the material mid printing.\n\nHowever, I have a two-extruder printer, and I'd like to utilize it for this printing. What's the easiest way (tool) to select a part of the model and define that it should be printed using a different color?\n\",Tomer,\"After a bit tinkering, I finally managed to split the model to two STL files, then used Cura to print them each in its own color. I decided to post here the steps I followed, as simply as I could, hoping that it would help other beginners.\n\nThe procedure was quite simple, even though it took a while for me to figure it out:\n\nFollowing the advice of this video, I used MeshMixer to edit the STL file I downloaded from thingiverse. I:\n\n\nSelected the areas I wanted to separate using the select tool (I had to change the tool \"\"radius\"\" so that it won't keep selecting unwanted faces of the model).\nIn the same tool, I used the \"\"Separate\"\" command to create two objects from the one I had before. This showed the \"\"object explorer\"\" window.\nI clicked each of the parts in the object explorer window and exported them separately to STL files.\n\n\nThen, using Cura, I followed this site, and performed the following:\n\n\nLoaded both models to Cura (order doesn't matter).\nPicked Print Core 1 for the first part and Core 2 for the second part.\nSelected both models (using the Shift key), then right-clicked and chose \"\"Merge Models\"\"\nProfit!\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4293,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Alvaro Gonzalez villarreal,3.0576060275493275,4.337993602245786,0.0,5.199501240805782,3.929104701733314,2.344026260222684,\"\"\"Tac Tac\"\" sound when printing with ABS\",\"My 3D printer makes weird sounds. When it's at >75% printing speed the extruder motor makes a \"\"tac tac\"\" sound and it goes backwards, pushing the filament back, for a small interval of time. I have tried changing the nozzle temperature and I'm unable to work this out alone. \n\nHas someone had the same problem?\n\nThis is the 3D printer: Geeetech High Quality Wood Geeetech Prusa I3 Pro W 3D Printer Kit.\n\",tbm0115,\"It could be a result of filament building up around the drive gear.\n\n\ndisassemble your extruder to expose the drive gear (the gear that drives the filament down to the heat element). \nclean any filament build-up out of the the teeth.\n\n\nFilament can sometimes build up around the gear over time when the extruder temp is not high enough to efficiently melt the filament. This occurs more commonly with ABS I've noticed, probably partly due to its higher heat resistance. However, this affect is ultimately an issue of poor quality filament (aka cheap).\n\",0.0,0.0\n4293,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Alvaro Gonzalez villarreal,3.0576060275493275,4.337993602245786,0.0,5.199501240805782,3.929104701733314,2.344026260222684,\"\"\"Tac Tac\"\" sound when printing with ABS\",\"My 3D printer makes weird sounds. When it's at >75% printing speed the extruder motor makes a \"\"tac tac\"\" sound and it goes backwards, pushing the filament back, for a small interval of time. I have tried changing the nozzle temperature and I'm unable to work this out alone. \n\nHas someone had the same problem?\n\nThis is the 3D printer: Geeetech High Quality Wood Geeetech Prusa I3 Pro W 3D Printer Kit.\n\",Howler,\"@Ecnerwal is right: that noise you hear is the extruder not being able to push the filament, and the stepper can't push any harder. When the extruder tries to push harder than it can, it gives up, and the \"\"spring\"\" tension it created in the filament forces it to go backwards a tiny bit. Then it tries again.\n\nPossible causes/fixes:\n\n\nTemperature too low -- this makes the filament not liquid enough to push through the nozzle easily. For ABS, you should be in the 230-240 range.\nClogged nozzle -- take the nozzle off (while hot) and try heating it with a torch to burn out anything that might be in there.\nBad filament -- If the filament has contamination in it, or is too large to fit through the hot end in places (I.E. it gets up to 1.9mm instead of 1.75mm)\nStepper current too low -- I'm not sure if you can adjust the current that is sent to your stepper motors, but if it is too low, the stepper can not provide enough torque to push the filament through. I don't see the stepper drivers on the site, so I don't know if you can adjust them or not.\n\n\",3.367452517504837,0.0\n4304,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Neuron,2.528907649931287,5.156990411900992,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.878685800062712,Ultimaker Cura infill issues (weird vertical pillars due to underextrusion),\"I have spent ages debugging this problem but I can't figure out what I am doing wrong.\n\nI have a Wanhao duplicator i3 (Prusa i3 clone) and until recently I used Wanhao's adapted version of the Cura slicer. But it's quite an old Cura version and I wanted to make use of the improved supports in the new Cura.\n\nUnfortunately it seems like I just can't get the infill in the newest Cura to work. I copied all the settings from my Wanhao branded Cura version and printed the same file.\n\nThis is the result:\n\n\n\nThe infill is shaped like many tiny pillars. They are super fragile and while they do support material to be printed on top, they hardly withstand any pressure.\n\nI have gone through quite a few testing cubes each with some setting altered, but nothing seemed to help.\n\nIt can't be the printers fault as I have successfully printed test cubes sliced with the old Cura in between (and not only once). Increasing temperature or slowing down the infill didn't help either. Neither did increasing flow rate or switching to triangular infill pattern. Also I have tried printing with all speeds set to 50mm/s and it still failed.\n\nMy standard settings (from which I have created many test cubes with each cube having some settings tweaked):\n\nLayer Height: 0.12 mm\n\nInit. Layer Height: 0.10 mm\n\nWall Line Count: 2\n\nTop Layers: 6\n\nBottom Layers: 4\n\nInfill Line distance: 5 mm (used to be 20 % in old Cura, but this is very dense in the new Cura)\n\nInfill Pattern: Lines\n\nInfill Overlap Percentage: 20 %\n\nPrinting Temperature: 200 °C\n\nBuild Plate Temperature: 60 °C\n\nRetraction: Enabled, Distance: 2 mm, Speed: 60 mm/s\n\nSpeeds: Print:60 mm/s, Infill: 60 mm/s, Outer Wall: 30 mm/s, Inner Wall: 60 mm/s, Top/Bottom: 40 mm/s, Travel: 100 mm/s, Initial Layer: 20 mm/s\n\nCombing Mode: All\n\n\",Tim Kuipers,\"This problem is most commonly caused by infill speeds which are too high.\n\nInstead of printing lines, the filament is caught on one of the lines of the previous layer, leaves a blob there and only restarts extrusion when it hits the next line. Instead of extruding continuously the filament comes out in blobs at the locations where there's filament on the previous layer.\n\nYou can have good infill up to some layer and suddenly start getting this problem as of some layer. When the problem occurs the next layer is more likely to show the problem. It's snowballing.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4304,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Neuron,2.528907649931287,5.156990411900992,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.878685800062712,Ultimaker Cura infill issues (weird vertical pillars due to underextrusion),\"I have spent ages debugging this problem but I can't figure out what I am doing wrong.\n\nI have a Wanhao duplicator i3 (Prusa i3 clone) and until recently I used Wanhao's adapted version of the Cura slicer. But it's quite an old Cura version and I wanted to make use of the improved supports in the new Cura.\n\nUnfortunately it seems like I just can't get the infill in the newest Cura to work. I copied all the settings from my Wanhao branded Cura version and printed the same file.\n\nThis is the result:\n\n\n\nThe infill is shaped like many tiny pillars. They are super fragile and while they do support material to be printed on top, they hardly withstand any pressure.\n\nI have gone through quite a few testing cubes each with some setting altered, but nothing seemed to help.\n\nIt can't be the printers fault as I have successfully printed test cubes sliced with the old Cura in between (and not only once). Increasing temperature or slowing down the infill didn't help either. Neither did increasing flow rate or switching to triangular infill pattern. Also I have tried printing with all speeds set to 50mm/s and it still failed.\n\nMy standard settings (from which I have created many test cubes with each cube having some settings tweaked):\n\nLayer Height: 0.12 mm\n\nInit. Layer Height: 0.10 mm\n\nWall Line Count: 2\n\nTop Layers: 6\n\nBottom Layers: 4\n\nInfill Line distance: 5 mm (used to be 20 % in old Cura, but this is very dense in the new Cura)\n\nInfill Pattern: Lines\n\nInfill Overlap Percentage: 20 %\n\nPrinting Temperature: 200 °C\n\nBuild Plate Temperature: 60 °C\n\nRetraction: Enabled, Distance: 2 mm, Speed: 60 mm/s\n\nSpeeds: Print:60 mm/s, Infill: 60 mm/s, Outer Wall: 30 mm/s, Inner Wall: 60 mm/s, Top/Bottom: 40 mm/s, Travel: 100 mm/s, Initial Layer: 20 mm/s\n\nCombing Mode: All\n\n\",edosoft,\"I am using the same printer (v1.2) with some upgrades and have been using the latest Ultimaker Cura (4.1) ever since they came out. For the first few prints I used an imported Ultimaker Cura profile, but after 3-4 bad prints I created a new profile from scratch, using a percentage for infill, with no problems at all.\n\",0.0,0.0\n4305,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jakey,2.1782824847157594,4.2005246533320415,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Unable to export all objects to a STL in AutoCAD,\"I made a pressing stamp in AutoCAD 2013 for stamping letters, but I'm having difficulties to save the file. I can save it anyhow in any format, but when it comes to .STL, some parts just doesn't show.\n\nI made a platform on bottom (25x25x3 mm cuboid) on which I put solids as they represent my logo. But when I export, I select all, but it saves me just 3 or 4 parts from 7 total. On many occasions I get saved different parts, but never all of them or more than 4.\n\nI am also getting the error while saving, which says: \"\"the boolean operation on solids failed\"\" and \"\"Failure in face-face intersection merging algorithm.\"\"\n\nAnything I try to do (even copy to another file and do there, doesn't help at all. But the irony is, that I just created a simple text stamp, for which I had no difficulties at all to save to .STL.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Based on your error messages, it's likely you have created a non-manifold 3D object. As a simple example, let's start with a cube as suggested in your question. To keep things simple, you want to add a cylinder to the cube. \n\nIn other programs, one would create a sketch on the surface of that cube and extrude the circle into a cylinder. Because the circle is constructed on the surface, it become an integrated part of the model.\n\nIf you had created the cylinder independently, which can be done in AutoCAD and placed it on the surface of the cube, the resulting model would appear to be the same as the one created above.\n\nThe placement method may have resulted in the end of the cylinder \"\"penetrating\"\" the surface of the cube. Such a model may generate the face-face error you've received.\n\nThe quantity reference you've provided in your question indicates that the problem is contained in more than one intersection.\n\nIf you have patience, you can return to the original model and attempt to locate piercings or penetrations and adjust the locations to be joined properly. Selecting a wireframe view may assist you in those efforts.\n\nAnother option would be to import your .STL file into a program such as Meshmixer to attempt an automatic repair. Under Analysis/Inspector, errors will appear with flags which can be clicked to perform a repair.\n\nSevere errors in construction, such as the one you describe, are more likely to destroy the model when using this method, however.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n4307,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mattcurrentjr,1.0891412423578797,3.887384510439058,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.6553159206313057,Building a 3-D printer,\"Building a 3-D printer is obviously a huge undertaking.\n\nDoes anyone know of any reasonably cheap guides to build my own 3-D printer?\n\",Greenonline,\"Building a 3-D printer is actually very easy, assuming that you are electronically and mechanically competent, and there are a whole bunch of websites devoted to doing just that. The principal of which would be the RepRapWiki.\n\nThere are a number of different designs, mostly from a few basic designs:\n\n\nCartesian\nDelta\nPolar\nScara\n\n\nTake a look at 3D Printers Explained: Delta, Cartesian, Polar, Scara, for further details.\n\nI, personally, would suggest looking at the following 3D printer designs (although there are many more out there):\n\n\nPrusa i3 (arguably the most common/popular), or its derivative the P3Steel\nWilson II\nKossel\n\n\nOn the web, i.e. eBay/Amazon, there are plenty of ready assembled versions, DIY kits, or you can source all of the individual parts yourself. I seriously recommend reading this question What are the pros and cons of collecting parts yourself, versus getting a DIY kit and then modifying it?\n\nI would strongly suggest that you do a lot of googling, and read around the subject for a couple of weeks: \n\n\nReading other peoples blogs;\nWatching construction videos on YouTube to get a better understanding, and;\nGoing through the issues that other people have experienced whilst building there own printers\n\n\nDoing this will help you glean a greater understanding of what is required, and what to expect when building yours - as well as getting an understanding of the individual parts required and how they all fit together.\n\nSpending a fair bit of time on this site, SE 3D Printing, and slowly going through the questions and answers is also strongly recommended.\n\nBuilding your own printer is, ultimately, more rewarding that purchasing a ready built one. This is because, due to its nascent nature of 3D printing, the printer that you purchase will, most likely, go wrong, and you will need to fix it. If you have built it yourself then you should be able to easily understand what is wrong, and then be capable of repairing it yourself. It is somewhat similar to the situation when the automobile first became popular, back in the 20's/30's (?) - the driver was, usually, also a mechanically competent engineer (unless they were filthy rich and were able to afford to pay a dedicated mechanic to accompany them - which was also the case, in those days). \n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n4307,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mattcurrentjr,1.0891412423578797,3.887384510439058,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.6553159206313057,Building a 3-D printer,\"Building a 3-D printer is obviously a huge undertaking.\n\nDoes anyone know of any reasonably cheap guides to build my own 3-D printer?\n\",TheNerdAlly,\"Have you built a 3D printer before, or have much experience in electronics? Building your own printer is usually more expensive than purchasing a higher end low-grade consumer printer. \n\nThere are a few routes you can go.\n\nCreality Ender 3 \nIt's a good starting 3D printer around 200ish. Just going to throw that out there first - as that is probably a far better route to think about when thinking about cost. It's decent out of the box. Mix it with Amazon Basics filament (roughly 20 a roll), cheap chinese filament (roughly 10-15 a roll), or if you live near a microcenter - Inland Filament (roughly 15 a roll) and you're set with minimal effort.\n\nNow... to answer your question - what TYPE of printer?\n\nFDM: That the plastic in the rolls - and by far the cheapest type of 3D printer (and the most common)\n\nSLA: That's the Resin Printers. This is far better quality (normally), but much harder to use, not really for those just getting into 3D printing. They are also far more costly. If you have the ability - this is the ones that start getting cheaper to make - but making a large resin printer is not easy at all. \n\nBio Printers: I do not suggest making this. In fact, you probably can't even easily buy them. From your scope of what you are looking for - doesn't seem much like what you want either. This is the type to make molds for cataracts, organs, other medical needs.\n\nThere are other various types of 3D printers, a lot of them actually, but these are three big ones. As I said, I'm going into a general overlook - if you want more info, I'd be glad to give you more in any of the topics.\n\n\n\nSLA / DLP (both very similar)\n\nI'm going to assume you want to look between either SLA or FDM. SLA (Resin) can be extremely pricey, and the resin even moreso. They work by curing Resin via light. \n\nThe -cheapest- way to build an SLA printer is by a projector! If you happen to have one already, then this route can cost you 20ish +-, not including Resin.\n\nWhat you need: Projector(50-100+ or free), old DVD drive/ cd drive from a pc (5 from goodwill, free for most people who have old systems laying around), Nema 17 Motor(brand new 15ish - shopping around ebay I have gotten 5 for 15 before), Threaded rod (home depot - 3-5), Arduino (10ish), a glass vat (dollar store), and some form of a base - either a cleaned off blank circuit board - pegboard, or a few various other things that can be used, various screws, mounts, belts ect. You also need resin. Monoprice has some of the better priced resins at like 40-50 per vile. Amazon has some cheaper ones too. As you can see, the price is already starting to go up. \n\nMaking a SLA printer, the basic idea is that you are hooking up the projector to be controlled by the Arduino. The Arduino you are loading open source (freely available code online) for SLA printers. The Arduino will control the projector itself, using the light to cure the resin as the build plate moves. The threaded rod you attach to the Nema 17 motor to move the build plate up and down. The plate will need to dunk the bottom side into the glass vat - the projector actually cures your print upside down - connecting to the build plate! As the build plate moves up, it will pull your print up with it to. After building, you will need to finish curing your print - you take it and cure it in UV light, or just set it outside in sunlight for a few hours. SLA can get some super high quality prints. \n\nCheck out this tutorial. http://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2768\n\n\n\nFDM\n\nThis is the type I'm assuming you are thinking about - the type where the extruder (print head) moves, and the build plate sometimes moves, and is sometimes heated. You print with rolls of plastic. \n\nThere are a lot of open source designs out there, one of the most popular designs is the i3 style. This is the style of the Ender 3 that I recommended above. It might not be the -best- design, but it is certainly popular! The \"\"best\"\" is highly subjective though. \n\nFor this, you need to have some sort of building material. You can use anything from Legos, plywood, plexiglass, metal, ect. Although you can use just about anything to build with, metal via 2020 rods (50ish+) are going to be some of your better, more stable options. You need a build plate. You can go cheap and use an unheated metal plate, mirror, glass, table... really anything flat - plus the addition of some blue painters tape for adhesion. You need some way to have endstops - either endstop switches - which cost a few bucks a piece (let's say 10 for 4 switches), you will need a good handful of screws, bolts, nuts, t-slot nuts, brackets - you get the picture. This can be cheap to pricey quick. (let's say 20ish for random number). You will need (if building i3 style) two threaded rods (10) or if you are going xyz style 4 (20). You will need Nema 17 motors - i3 style 3-4 motors(15-80) - xyz 2-5 motors (10-100), an arduino board (can go cheap from 20 all the way to amazing boards such as the duet wifi 2 which is around 200), a PSU (get a good one here 12v at least 40amps - switchable psu), you need some mosfet boards 1 for your extruder and one for your bed if you are using a heated buildplate. Speaking of heated buildplates, if you use one don't make your own. It's safer to buy one and they can run cheap. You will also need a lot of wire, solder, shrink wrap... I'm sure you're getting the picture on that there. Basic microcontroller and electronics work tools and accessory parts there including various sensors and whatnot of the like. Extruder gear, you can build your own - but until you are really familiar with it, just go buy one. You can pick up an entire extruder assembly, off brand knock off for around 20.\n\nThe probably hands down best way to learn to build your own 3D printer is to get your hands dirty with a pre-built or a kit, start taking it apart, and really learning how they work rather than just following a guide to build your own. There is so many resources out there that are only 'half complete' or 'half correct' that without foundation knowledge - it becomes pretty easy to burn your house down. Not to mention, building your own is almost always more expensive than a kit.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4308,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,DMrFrost,1.0891412423578797,3.5726960728578114,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Does the Inverse-Square law apply with SLA Printing?,\"I was adjusting the position of our projector to allow for bigger prints to be generated. I encountered a problem that at larger distances, our prints are not seeming to adhere as desired. \n\nDoes the inverse square law of light apply to DLP projectors? \n\nI am aware that the inverse-square law only is 100% applicable when you have a point as your light source. But I assume close to the same holds constant for other real world light sources. \n\nUnless DLP projectors compensate for distance with their power output. Is this the case?\n\n\n\nCross-Post: @ Physics.SE\n\",Ecnerwal,\"Yes, of course it does. The same amount of light is being spread across a wider area, so there's less light per area. Once you're past a few 10's of filament diameters, a point source is a highly accurate representation of most light bulbs. Even more so when there's a lens setup that causes the light to go through a point focus.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n4315,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,DMrFrost,2.528907649931287,4.739724185860119,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,What is the lifespan of a SLA Resin Tray?,\"As far as I know resin trays have a Teflon coat that allows prints to stick to the build plate easier than the resin tray but this Teflon coat wears over time. \n\nI am new to the SLA scene and am currently troubleshooting a Draken Facture and trying to hone in my setting but my print keep sticking to the bottom of the resin vat. \n\nHow often should these trays be swapped out to allow for smooth printing?\n\",Shahin,\"It depends on tray and resin type you are using.\n\nPDMS\n\nIf you are using PDMS (eg. sylgard 184) coating for your tray. (B9 and similar printers using this type of tray). \n\nLife of tray PDMS coating depends mainly on:\n\n\nHow long you print without breathing floor.\nHow reactive is your resin.\n\n\nYou could get 2 3 prints up to 15 20 prints.\n\nIt is suitable for printing delicate pieces.\n\nFEP\n\nLarge number of manufacturers using FEP.\n\nLife of tray largely depends on.\n\n\nThickness of FEP\nPiece sizes and movement speed during early layers.\n\n\nUsually you could use same tray for couple of hundreds of prints. \nOptical quality is not comparable to other alternatives but without human error factor you could get almost unlimited prints. Delicate pieces require tough resin.\n\nTeflon\n\nIt is halfway between PDMS and FEP.\n\nThere are other tray alternatives:\n\n\nEnvision uses special glass you could print on average 50 prints.\nCarbon 3D uses super expensive oxygen-permeable window.\n\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n4315,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,DMrFrost,2.528907649931287,4.739724185860119,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,What is the lifespan of a SLA Resin Tray?,\"As far as I know resin trays have a Teflon coat that allows prints to stick to the build plate easier than the resin tray but this Teflon coat wears over time. \n\nI am new to the SLA scene and am currently troubleshooting a Draken Facture and trying to hone in my setting but my print keep sticking to the bottom of the resin vat. \n\nHow often should these trays be swapped out to allow for smooth printing?\n\",markshancock,\"I did some research and the life of the resin and resin tray appears to be dependent on how you use it. For example, regarding the resin, 3dfacture states \"\"We see almost unlimited shelf life of the resin as long as it is kept out of light\"\".\n\nI know you asked about the tray and not the resin; but, the two are inter-coupled to the same fundamental issue. Their lifespan is highly operational dependent. If your printer operates in an environment that have very low ambient UV, the tray will have to be cleaned less because of less resin buildup and replacement and thus less wear. Other factors come into play as well regarding cleaning procedures, usage amount, etc.\n\nI think if you want a number you are going to have to run your own experiment in your own environment.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4353,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,DMrFrost,3.267423727073639,6.2198217535663,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.265283966335819,SLA prints not sticking to build plate,\"I have been working with our SLA printer (Facture Draken) for a couple weeks now printing in makerjuice waxcast. . I have had some successful prints, but the majority (80%) end up as pancakes stuck to the bottom of the resin tray. Some others break in half mid print. \n\nI have experimented with laying my models (round circular diks) flat on the build plate, but most of the times I place them on supports which stem from a square baseplate. \n\nIt seems clear to me that there is allot of force being put on the models while curing on the bottom of the resin tray. I have noticed that printing objects with a larger projection area are more likely to stick in the vat. I assume this is because of the increased contact with the tray. Usually it seems ~10 layers are built before my baseplate breaks away. \n\nThings I have tried\n\n\nPulling out the build plate, cleaning it with Acetone. Sanding it with 80 grit sandpaper. \nEmptying the resin tray and replacing with new resin. \nUpping base-layer cure-time from from 30seconds up to 3 minutes, and variations between.\nUpping base-layer count from 2 to 4.\nRotating model base 45% to start the tray peel process from a corner rather than from a long edge to reduce initial tear force. \n\n\nAnyone with experience got more suggestions on how to continue troubleshooting?\n\",Shahin,\"Prints could end up on tray for couple of reasons. \n\n\nVacuum force on early layers - Usually you should lose pieces on the center of platform\n\n\nPut holes or channels on platform\nVery slow speed on early layers\nUse smaller platform\nUse tilt mechanism\nUse larger support structures\nUse stickier platform - Anodized aluminum is specially good \n\nNon-aligned platform - Pieces on side of platform end up on tray \n\n\nAlign platform / tray\n\nLow cure times - you could lose pieces around platform for DLP and whole platform for LCD ones\nResin related issues\n\n\nResin designed for thinner layers - Decrease layer thickness\nPigment settled down - Shake resin before use\n\n\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n4353,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,DMrFrost,3.267423727073639,6.2198217535663,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.265283966335819,SLA prints not sticking to build plate,\"I have been working with our SLA printer (Facture Draken) for a couple weeks now printing in makerjuice waxcast. . I have had some successful prints, but the majority (80%) end up as pancakes stuck to the bottom of the resin tray. Some others break in half mid print. \n\nI have experimented with laying my models (round circular diks) flat on the build plate, but most of the times I place them on supports which stem from a square baseplate. \n\nIt seems clear to me that there is allot of force being put on the models while curing on the bottom of the resin tray. I have noticed that printing objects with a larger projection area are more likely to stick in the vat. I assume this is because of the increased contact with the tray. Usually it seems ~10 layers are built before my baseplate breaks away. \n\nThings I have tried\n\n\nPulling out the build plate, cleaning it with Acetone. Sanding it with 80 grit sandpaper. \nEmptying the resin tray and replacing with new resin. \nUpping base-layer cure-time from from 30seconds up to 3 minutes, and variations between.\nUpping base-layer count from 2 to 4.\nRotating model base 45% to start the tray peel process from a corner rather than from a long edge to reduce initial tear force. \n\n\nAnyone with experience got more suggestions on how to continue troubleshooting?\n\",Michael Wooten,\"I also had issues with the first layer sticking to the build plate and I did not want to sand the plate. As most people will mention you need to make sure that your plate is perfectly level and the z height is right (lots of friction on the paper). You also need the correct exposure times for your resin and the first few layers should get 60 seconds of exposure. PRO TIP to improve bed adhesion: apply a thin layer of resin to the build platform before you start to print. I have not any failed prints after I started coating the plate with resin. Also, I don't completely clean the plate between prints, I make sure it is still sticky. I hope this helps.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4401,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,DMrFrost,2.1782824847157594,3.5067276254879127,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,How do you know when your SLA resin tray needs to be replaced?,\"How do you know when your SLA print tray has lost its non-stick coating? \n\n\nAre there visible or testable signs you can use to determine it is time to invest in a new resin tray? \nIs it best to count prints and estimate?\n\n\",bardiir,\"Once the non stick coating wears off you'll notice degraded print quality over time and a more agressive sound from the print breaking free when switching layers as the print uses more and more force to break free from the tray with each layer when the non stick coating degrades. The good thing is this will not happen at once so you will start to notice telltale signs previously and you can lessen the wear at specific points of the non stick coating by using different parts of the build platform instead of printing exactly in the center each time.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4310,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Yifan,1.726248027126092,3.2292362727989086,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.8086301675739853,3D printing for storage card shell?,\"I know nothing about 3D printing and I was wondering if it is a good candidate for what I want to make.\n\nI want to make a custom game cartridge which looks like this:\n \n\nBasically it's like a SD card in a custom shell. Now I can produce the inside as a thin PCB (0.6mm-1mm). But I was wondering what the best (and cheapest) way to prototype (and maybe make a small run production) the outer shell would be. The entire cart is about 2mm thick, so each half of the shell would be at most ~0.6mm thick.\n\nIs this something I can do with a typical 3D printer? How would I \"\"attach\"\" the two halves together?\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"Typically, for FDM, the resolution is different for height compared with the x-y plane.\n\nIn x-y, you will be constrained by the nozzle diameter (0.4mm is common), which effectively quantises your wall thickness (0.4, 0.8, 1.2 etc). These walls can be placed with maybe 0.05mm precision.\n\nIn Z, the constraint is to be less than the nozzle, so 0.12 or 0.2 mm is common.\n\nSo you can easily make a half which is around 1mm thick, with a 0.3mm high wall. You would want the majority of the wall width to be 0.8 or 1.2 mm at least, but you could probably arrange an overlap between the two parts to allow some tolerance and increase the glueing area.\n\nA flat print of only a single layer is possible, but it won't be as accurately dimensioned (due to bed-leveling accuracy). A single layer with a wall would work, but might be too flexible.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n4310,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Yifan,1.726248027126092,3.2292362727989086,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.8086301675739853,3D printing for storage card shell?,\"I know nothing about 3D printing and I was wondering if it is a good candidate for what I want to make.\n\nI want to make a custom game cartridge which looks like this:\n \n\nBasically it's like a SD card in a custom shell. Now I can produce the inside as a thin PCB (0.6mm-1mm). But I was wondering what the best (and cheapest) way to prototype (and maybe make a small run production) the outer shell would be. The entire cart is about 2mm thick, so each half of the shell would be at most ~0.6mm thick.\n\nIs this something I can do with a typical 3D printer? How would I \"\"attach\"\" the two halves together?\n\",ON5MF Jurgen,\"With the experience I have with my 3d printer you can make (almost) everything you can draw with it.\n\n0.6mm parts can be 3d printed but will not be very strong though.\n\nFor joining the 2 halves when they are so thin, I think the best solution is to glue them together. With the things I make for myself I mostly use small screws or small nuts and bolts but with 0.6mm parts I guess this wil not be possible.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n4329,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FunnyItsElmo,2.8153892694839717,4.589191094047444,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,print quality: z wobble issue,\"Yesterday i replaced the z axis of my diy printer. Now i have some strange waves on the side of my prints. Are the threaded rods bent or could that be a vibration issue? Or is the coupler too stiff?\n\n\n\",cmm,\"This looks as if there is a side-to-side force being generated as Z is changed. Ideally, the X or Y position is determined by the smooth rods, which should bear any force, not the threaded rod. The threaded rod should cause no motion except upward and downward.\n\nIf the rod is bent, but the rod is lightly constrained, then the top, being the free end, will draw a circle. The bottom is constrained by the motor. The middle is constrained by the nut, so the top would wander. If the threaded rod is perfectly straight, and the stepper motor axis and the nut are perfectly aligned, the top would spin without movement.\n\nIf the rod is bent and the nut is very tight, there may be a twisting force exerted by the nut, which could cause movement.\n\nEverything is a tradeoff between tightness and looseness, between precision components and the reality of alignment errors.\n\nYou asked if the shaft coupling is too tight. Maybe. Try removing everything except the motor, coupling, and the threaded rod. Does the rod fall exactly where the nut would be? If not, it isn't aligned correctly. Incorrect alignment can be mitigated by a flexible coupling. It looks like you are using a Lovejoy coupling with a plaster spider. Depending on how tightly the spider fits, a Lovejoy coupling can be tight or loose. I see a lot of machines with the one-piece coupling and a spiral-cut joining region. THis might be a good alternative, but they tend to take up more space than a lovejoy coupling.\n\nBecause Z-axis motion is pretty slow, it is unlikely to be a z-axis vibration issue. You may have changed the resonant frequencies enough to cause some other problem, but I don't think it is related to the problem in the photograph.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4329,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FunnyItsElmo,2.8153892694839717,4.589191094047444,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,print quality: z wobble issue,\"Yesterday i replaced the z axis of my diy printer. Now i have some strange waves on the side of my prints. Are the threaded rods bent or could that be a vibration issue? Or is the coupler too stiff?\n\n\n\",mharter,\"It is possible that your selected layer height isn't compatible with the pitch of your leadscrew. I believe the reprap website has a layer height calculator based on the pitch of your lead screw. Just another option.\n\",0.0,0.0\n4330,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chippman,1.726248027126092,4.952390606695288,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Anet A8 frame replacement,\"My Anet A8 frame are broken. I find frame project AM8 - Metal Frame for Anet A8. I like it but I can't find aluminum extrusion needed, like this: MiSUMi - Aluminum Extrusion - 5 series, Base 20, 20mm x 40mm.\n\nMaybe somebody knows where I can buy it in Ukraine? Or maybe another frame options?\n\",markshancock,\"There are lots of online sources for T-slot aluminum extrusions from ebay to McMaster. If you want more options do a Google Search. \n\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n4330,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chippman,1.726248027126092,4.952390606695288,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Anet A8 frame replacement,\"My Anet A8 frame are broken. I find frame project AM8 - Metal Frame for Anet A8. I like it but I can't find aluminum extrusion needed, like this: MiSUMi - Aluminum Extrusion - 5 series, Base 20, 20mm x 40mm.\n\nMaybe somebody knows where I can buy it in Ukraine? Or maybe another frame options?\n\",vittorio88,\"I highly recommend the Bosch Rexroth series of aluminum hardware.\n\nI also recommend RS components as a distributor for this material. They have local warehouses, and provide very fast shipping.\n\nHere is the part you are looking for on their UK GB website.\nHere is an assortment of compatible hardware.\n\nBy the way, RS components has a Ukraine website, where you may be able to order from a Ukraine warehouse for faster/cheaper shipping.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4332,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mr. Meeseeks,2.528907649931287,4.2434913477356275,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.9505769891325135,Is it possible in any 3D printing software to create a coiled tube?,\"I've gone on quite a few sites (thingiverse, grabcad, etc) in search for a coiled tube, but I have yet to find anything suitable. There are a few coils (\"\"springs\"\") but no coiled tubes (i.e. the springs are hollow). Maybe my searching hasn't been good enough! But I was wondering if this is a limitation to 3D printing models? \n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"No, this is not a limitation. You should be able to create a coiled tube in almost every 3D design software package. However, how to do this depends on the specific 3D design software in use.\n\nYou'd generally do so by creating a cross-sectional profile (i.e. a hollow circle) and then sweeping it along a helical path. Another option is to first create a spring/coil, and then hollow it out (some CAD packages have a tool/command for this, usually called \"\"shell\"\").\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4332,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mr. Meeseeks,2.528907649931287,4.2434913477356275,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.9505769891325135,Is it possible in any 3D printing software to create a coiled tube?,\"I've gone on quite a few sites (thingiverse, grabcad, etc) in search for a coiled tube, but I have yet to find anything suitable. There are a few coils (\"\"springs\"\") but no coiled tubes (i.e. the springs are hollow). Maybe my searching hasn't been good enough! But I was wondering if this is a limitation to 3D printing models? \n\",Mr. Meeseeks,\"I managed to do it in the end using AutoDesk 123D.\n\n\n\nDid it by making two coils of differing radius, then subtracting the smaller from the larger. I made each coil using the instructions found here:\n\n\r\n \r\n \n\nSo there we go...\n\nPrinted it out just now without supports - in the orientation shown - and it came out fine. Used a brim, though (don't want it rolling away!) \n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n4337,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Visastar,1.0891412423578797,3.2230983134145625,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Print not coming out good,\"I just designed a robot in blender, and whenever I print it, it goes horribly wrong. The first print was laying down, I had supports on, Then it started to print the arm, starting with the bottom of a sphere, and the supports caused it to fly off. The second time, I printed it standing up, with supports, and the arm didn't even print, PLA got all over my build plate. How would I print this successfully? Sideways like this? \n\nI uploaded the model to Thingiverse last night, Here's the link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2417504\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Based on your description of the print failures, it appears that the problem is not specific to the model. If printing supports is causing parts of the model to \"\"fly off,\"\" there may be a temperature problem or a speed problem or a combination of the two. If you have a new filament type, it may be necessary to perform test model prints to ensure you are using good settings for the filament. If you are using old filament, it may be necessary to print test models with no complex shapes to ensure that your filament will still function properly.\n\nYou say that \"\"PLA got all over your build plate.\"\" This is another indication of a problem not related to the model position or model design or orientation.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4340,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thijs,1.726248027126092,4.415639610362838,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,fill in svg or stl design,\"This is a line drawing and I would like to print it a couple of mm high. I cannot figure out how to get this line drawing filled. I converted to SVG with Inkscape, used GIMP, took it online to TinkerCad and tried it with Onshape but all I ever get is just the line and this does not work well on my printer. What is a smart way to get this filled in and ready to go?\n\nI use TinkerCad to convert to STL and that works fine. So I could also try to edit the STL in stead of the SVG file.\n\nMaybe I should print the original scanned image (TIFF) and then fill it by hand with black ink and then scan it and convert it to SVG but that sounds really dumb.\n\n\n\nUPDATE\nI went back to the original drawing and using the bucket tool. The result is a rather noisy image and I need it to be sharp and tight to be able to convert it to a good SVG later on.\nLooks like it is more of a graphics design question now..\nhttps://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com/questions/94773/from-drawing-to-3d-print\n\n\n\",fred_dot_u,\"If you don't mind adding another tool to your toolbox, you can use a plug-in for Inkscape called Inkscape OpenSCAD DXF Export that will convert your SVG drawing to appropriate code to import to OpenSCAD. Even if you aren't keen on learning OpenSCAD, once you have the code, press F5 for a preview, F6 for a rendering and then export the STL file.\n\nThe link on Thingiverse gives instructions how to add the plug-in (extension) to Inkscape, which is relatively simple. I've been using the extension for applicable projects with great success. Expect minor complications for closed paths within other paths, however. You may have to create separate STL files for those paths and use Boolean subtraction to remove the \"\"holes\"\" as needed.\n\n\n\nThe extension is slightly counter-intuitive. Be sure to manually add the .scad extension to the file as it does not perform that task automatically.\n\nUPDATE: I have discovered that the above link is not the one I've been using. I'm leaving it in place as it may be useful to others to have the ability to create .DXF files from Inkscape. The correct one is called Inkscape to OpenSCAD converter v6 and works as described above.\n\nAs always, read and follow all label instructions. Do not operate heavy machinery after using this product.\n\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4340,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thijs,1.726248027126092,4.415639610362838,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,fill in svg or stl design,\"This is a line drawing and I would like to print it a couple of mm high. I cannot figure out how to get this line drawing filled. I converted to SVG with Inkscape, used GIMP, took it online to TinkerCad and tried it with Onshape but all I ever get is just the line and this does not work well on my printer. What is a smart way to get this filled in and ready to go?\n\nI use TinkerCad to convert to STL and that works fine. So I could also try to edit the STL in stead of the SVG file.\n\nMaybe I should print the original scanned image (TIFF) and then fill it by hand with black ink and then scan it and convert it to SVG but that sounds really dumb.\n\n\n\nUPDATE\nI went back to the original drawing and using the bucket tool. The result is a rather noisy image and I need it to be sharp and tight to be able to convert it to a good SVG later on.\nLooks like it is more of a graphics design question now..\nhttps://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com/questions/94773/from-drawing-to-3d-print\n\n\n\",Shahin,\"Free 3D printing program NanoDLP does support extruding single image frame to 3D object in required height. You can use Windows or Linux version of the program.\n\",0.0,0.0\n4349,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Intent Filters,2.1782824847157594,2.9362955533623216,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Effect of particulates on the viscosity of paste that is used to transport it in extrusion printing,\"I am trying to find research articles that have data on how particulates(metal powder in a paste/hydrogel affect the viscosity of the paste/hydrogel. But I have been coming up blank in my last few hours of research. Is anyone aware of any research papers that discuss this and could point me towards them please? thanks.\n\",markshancock,\"I found a journal article \"\"Experimental study of the viscosity of suspensions\"\"\nthat looks like what you are looking for. Just like most journals, it costs to access it. Also, it might be available as Open Access; but, I was not able to figure out how.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4382,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Intent Filters,2.1782824847157594,3.1447983993774047,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,High-viscosity gel/polymer to suspend conductive material while it is being printed,\"I currently doing research on 3d printing on circuit boards. The technique we are using is to put a conductive material, I.e ceramics/metal in a gel/polymer, to print the suspension and then when is complete to sinter away the gel/polymer. The problem I am having is the suspension needs to be thixotropic. Furthermore it must have a high viscosity i.e 500 cpa under low shear and to quickly drop to low viscosity as the shear increases\n\nSo far the closest thing I have been able to find is in this paper but if you look at the graphs none of them have a high enough viscosity and more importantly the drop to low viscosity under increasing shear is too shallow.\n\nI have tried to use models like the ones in this paper but I am finding it quite difficult.\n\nDoes anyone have any suggestions to find more materials like the one I require? Thanks\n\",markshancock,\"The material you are describing sounds very similar to the material used for Metal Injection Molding except that you want to print the material rather than molding it. \n\nA company called MarkForged is making a printer called the Metal X that uses this technique of printing & sintering to produce solid metal parts. Here is a article describing more details about the printer.\n\nIt sounds really cool.\n\nIf you investigate papers around those processes you may find what you are looking for since they are so related to what you are trying to do.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4355,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ananyo Bhattacharya ,-2.528907649931287,4.266692819932913,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,What are the basic requirements to make a 3d printing machine?,\"What are the basic necessities needed to build a 3d printing machine.\n\n\nWorkforce\nTechnology\nMoney\netc.\n\n\nI'm an undergrad and my friends and I would like to make a printer for a project. We wanted to get an idea of the prerequisites for this work. \n\",markshancock,\"It really depends on what you mean by \"\"make a 3d printing machine\"\"\n\n\nYou could buy and assemble an FDM printer kit. This is \"\"making\"\" in the same way you can \"\"make\"\" a cake. This is low cost and little experience is required. \n\nMy 15yo son built the TronXY X3 kit I bought for $200. \n. There are lots of kits.\nYou could design your own FDM printer from stock parts. This is also pretty easy to do with minimal mechanical experience. Its pretty much just 4-5 stepper motors (X,Y,Z(1/2),extruder), and extruder, some mechanical parts, a power supply. and off the shelf electronics. Parts are readily available on eBay and firmware is available on GitHub. There are designs available on the internet that you could start from. Here is a video one maker made of his build. This is how the whole industry got started and were often called RepRap printers.\nYou could try building or designing a much complicated style printer (SLA, DLP, SLS, etc.). This would require a bigger commitment with more experience.\n...\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4355,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ananyo Bhattacharya ,-2.528907649931287,4.266692819932913,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,What are the basic requirements to make a 3d printing machine?,\"What are the basic necessities needed to build a 3d printing machine.\n\n\nWorkforce\nTechnology\nMoney\netc.\n\n\nI'm an undergrad and my friends and I would like to make a printer for a project. We wanted to get an idea of the prerequisites for this work. \n\",DMrFrost,\"This is a pretty vague question. First of all you have to ask what kind of 3D printer you want to make, what do you want to be able to print (size/resolution?) what tools/resources you have access to, how much you want to spend vs how much time you want to build. The more time and money you put into the thing the better your final results will be. \n\nThese guys built a pretty decent looking delta model for ~$170. Seems pretty reasonable. Deltas are pretty simple to put together and allow for a good build size. Building yours from scratch gives you total control over materials used, which means durability and price is in your hands. You will need to think about the following steps. \n\n\nResearch\nDesign\nMaterials/Hardware (acquiring, fabricating)\nCoding/Software (choose a flavor)\nTroubleshooting/Failing\nFirst Print\n\n\nIf you care less about the experience of building and more about getting a working printer, there are plenty of build kits. These will give you all the essential pieces and instructions to follow. Prices range from \\$100 to \\$1000, from what I have seen. \n\nDo some research in your region, if you are in a city, there may a collective or club where they specialize in this stuff. I know where I am in Portland there is a workspace where they actually give classes where everyone builds their own Delta model printers. Finding enthusiasts in your area can be a great way to get parts pointers, as well as inspiration. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4357,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,yashirq,1.726248027126092,3.1516766269614735,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,What's the advantage to deploy 3D printing on IaaS,\"3D printing is becoming more and more populated during the last few years. But still, only a few group of people can access the 3D printer and know how to use it. So it is reasonable to deploy 3D printing on the cloud, so that almost everyone can access it and finish their job in a few steps.\n\nBasically, there are 3 types of service on the cloud, which are:\n\n\nIaas - Infrastructure as a Service;\nPaaS - Platform as a Service;\nSaaS - Service as a service.\n\n\nIt seems we can deploy 3D printing on all of these models. But specifically, what's the advantage to deploying 3D printing on IaaS? Under what condition we should use IaaS?\n\",markshancock,\"Most cloud models are based on virtual rather than physical services.\n\nThe closest thing I can think of as \"\"IAAS\"\" in the 3D printing space would be something like 3DHubs which connects people that have printer capacity with people that want to print.\n\nThe whole cloud 3D printing thing seem a bit questionable to how large/viable of a market it really is. I know there are a LOT of people out there that want to make money off of (or at least defer the cost of) the printer they bought; but, the market seems over-saturated. Heck, even UPS does it.\n\nAll the people that I know that use contract printing already have their own printer but contract out either for more volume, or a different material than they can print with their printer. At work we have a printer; but, we go outside if we want volume (hundreds of pieces) but are not yet ready to commit to a mold. When we go outside, we would only consider a trusted vetted supplier - not the cloud.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4361,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mick,2.8153892694839717,4.6960034872434395,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.488653845767225,How should I test filament samples?,\"I have just ordered some filament samples (each sample is 10m x 1.75mm). How should I test the samples, given that there is only 10 metres of each to play with? Just printing a benchy will use about 4 metres. I would probably want to print a benchy, so that leaves 6 metres to play with. I am mostly interested in producing functional (not decorative) pieces. I do not have a heated bed.\n\",Davo,\"Select an STL that exhibits characteristics you want to test (bridging, resistance to various pressures) and print it with each material. Preferably, run the same exact gcode, only changing temperatures, so that you get an apples-to-apples comparison.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4361,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mick,2.8153892694839717,4.6960034872434395,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.488653845767225,How should I test filament samples?,\"I have just ordered some filament samples (each sample is 10m x 1.75mm). How should I test the samples, given that there is only 10 metres of each to play with? Just printing a benchy will use about 4 metres. I would probably want to print a benchy, so that leaves 6 metres to play with. I am mostly interested in producing functional (not decorative) pieces. I do not have a heated bed.\n\",Kallz,\"There are some simple steps you can write your G-code for that.\n\n\nFilament should have accuracy of diameter 1.75 mm\nWrite G-code into file for next test case and run on machine\n\n\nFor continue extrusion 100mm at different feed rate F50 F100 F150 F200 up to the machine's maximum feedrate G-code for that\n\nG91\nG92 E0\nG1 E100 F50\n\nYou have prime and suck parameter for your machine so test it. For example, prime and suck both are 4 mm and repeat last two line to continue testing\n\nG91\nG92 E0\nG90\nG1 E5 F100\nG1 E1 F100\nG1 E5 F100\nG1 E1 F100\n\nThis test for continue extrude and wait for 2 sec and then extrude again, repeat following G-code again and again continue\n\nG90\nG92 E0\nG1 E10 F100\nG4 P2\n\nTest prime suck with delay\n\nG92 E0\nG90\nG1 E5 F100\nG4 P2\nG1 E1 F100\nG4 P2\nG1 E5 F100\nG4 P2 \nG1 E1 F100 \n\nFinal is print\n\n\n\nIn all of the above tests filament should not getting jammed and, for new material, temperature also may be a problem - so first set temperature for a new material.\n\nBefore starting test cases, clean the nozzle.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4365,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dork,1.726248027126092,4.555716412427451,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Object got unstuck from printing mat,\"So I was trying to print 3DBenchy on my new Wanhao i3+. PLA plastic, basic high quality settings in Cura (I guess 0.06 mm layer, 40 mm/s speed, 50c bed temp, 195c extruder temp). I didn't use any tape, just regular wanhao printer mat, which was installed on printer bed from the box.\n\nAt some moment when I looked I found things fouled up: object came off from the mat and sticked to the extruder and was moving with it. \nIt printed like 3-4 mm of the object (about 50 layers) before this happened.\n\nI would like to know what are the main reasons this can happen? And what can I do to prevent this? I think it's very sad when you lose many hour of work.\n\",DMrFrost,\"You have to secure your print to the build plate. \n\nOne thing that I always do is to use a brim in cura. prints a single layer which extends in all direction away from your object, adding extra adhesion between your object and the print bed.\n\nYou can also use a slower extrusion speed for your initial layer but I would use this after trouble shooting everything else since you will be adding time to each print.\n\nIf you are using a heated bed make sure that the temperature is set for the correct material. For PLA i think that is 40C-60C.\n\nWe put down a layer of craft/school elmers stick glue before most prints. This helps a bit with adhering to the build plate, and also seems to allow the prints to pop off a bit easier. \n\nAlso be sure to double check you Z calibration and your bed level. If there are inconsistencies and your nozzel moves to far away from you bed, you will be extruding in air and not getting and stickage at all.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4367,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dork,2.8153892694839717,4.354715708801675,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.306096197889172,After 1.5 hours of printing quality degraded,\"Testing my new Wanhao i3+. PLA plastic(Wanhao), basic normal quality settings in Cura (I guess 0.1 mm layer, 40 mm/s speed, 60c bed temp, 200c extruder temp). After 1.5 hours of printing quality degraded, it makes some loose structure. \n\nEdit:\nAfter finish I noticed that problem exists only in layers where it cycles printing/no printing. There is no problem on layers where it print continuously.\n\nWhat is the reason can be and how can I fix that?\n\n\n\",Davo,\"If the problem occurs most when you are doing the most advance/retract cycles, the problem is likely with your advance/retract settings.\n\nHave you tried cutting each of them in half and executing the same gcode?\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4367,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dork,2.8153892694839717,4.354715708801675,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.306096197889172,After 1.5 hours of printing quality degraded,\"Testing my new Wanhao i3+. PLA plastic(Wanhao), basic normal quality settings in Cura (I guess 0.1 mm layer, 40 mm/s speed, 60c bed temp, 200c extruder temp). After 1.5 hours of printing quality degraded, it makes some loose structure. \n\nEdit:\nAfter finish I noticed that problem exists only in layers where it cycles printing/no printing. There is no problem on layers where it print continuously.\n\nWhat is the reason can be and how can I fix that?\n\n\n\",markshancock,\"It definitely looks like under extrusion. \n\n\nFirst thing I would check is the filament feeder to make sure it has\na good grip in the filament.\nAfter that I would do another print to see if the problem is repeatable.\n\n\nIf it doesn't repeat, it may have been \n\n\nA temporarily clogged nozzle\nThe filament was undersized in that segment and the filament feeder lost its grip.\nThe extruder got to cold for some reason in that segment and the feeder couldn't push the material through the extruder fast enough.\n\n\nIf it does repeat:\n\n\nRe-inspect the filament feeder\nTry increasing the the extruder temp to say, 225.\nTry turning off retraction to see if it is related to those settings.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4368,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pomonaill220,2.528907649931287,4.773819023113363,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.320478682445624,2.2576023278269264,Running laser on my printer,\"I am trying to control a laser with the fan (D9) and ran into problems.\nSo I tried P44, no good then P6 also not good.\\\nWhat my problem is I am trying to \"\"burn\"\" a group of vertical lines spaced about 0.75\"\" apart, and randomly the drive to the laser power supply is either \"\"skipping\"\" (missing the control pulse) or stretching the pulse.\nThis results in missed burns and/or \"\"streaks\"\" where the laser does not turn off.\nI am using Marlin 1.1.4 on a RAMPS 1.4 board (clone) on an Arduino close also.\nWhen I am not printing, the pulses are perfect and I can control the pulse width with M42 P6(or 44) S0 (to 255) and it follows just fine.\nIt is ONLY while I am printing and the steppers are moving that things go south.\nThis also occurs on D9 (fan) and that is why I am trying these other outputs.\nThese other outputs use different timers in the 2560 as well.\nI have tried all sorts and combinations of firmware settings, different USB cable and different USB ports on my computer, with no change.\nWhat might I be missing?\n\",Greenonline,\"This is a stab in the dark but maybe the Arduino (clone or genuine) and RAMPS1.4 combination is not powerful enough to handle the calculations required to control the laser and printing simultaneously (although I can't really see why the additional processing to control a laser would be over taxing the processor. However your comment about slowing the printing seems to help alleviate the issue, does back up the hypothesis). I have read that the ATmega256, and lesser AVR microcontrollers, can be working at its limits, when controlling a 3D printer and having to deal with arcs, or something that requires complex calculations. \n\nSome printer control boards, such as the Smoothie, use different processors (ARM?) in order to supersede these issues. From 3D Printering: Electronics boards. \n\n\n The above boards use AVR microcontrollers. While they work for what they’re intended to do, there are a few limitations. Arcs and circles are a little weird to program, and using these boards for something other than a cartesian 3D printer – a CNC machine, or a laser cutter, for example – is a bit out of the ordinary. The Smoothie board is the solution to these problems.\n\n\nSo, if you have discounted power issues, it could be due to computing power and it may be worth considering using a different, more powerful, controller?\n\",0.0,0.0\n4368,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pomonaill220,2.528907649931287,4.773819023113363,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.320478682445624,2.2576023278269264,Running laser on my printer,\"I am trying to control a laser with the fan (D9) and ran into problems.\nSo I tried P44, no good then P6 also not good.\\\nWhat my problem is I am trying to \"\"burn\"\" a group of vertical lines spaced about 0.75\"\" apart, and randomly the drive to the laser power supply is either \"\"skipping\"\" (missing the control pulse) or stretching the pulse.\nThis results in missed burns and/or \"\"streaks\"\" where the laser does not turn off.\nI am using Marlin 1.1.4 on a RAMPS 1.4 board (clone) on an Arduino close also.\nWhen I am not printing, the pulses are perfect and I can control the pulse width with M42 P6(or 44) S0 (to 255) and it follows just fine.\nIt is ONLY while I am printing and the steppers are moving that things go south.\nThis also occurs on D9 (fan) and that is why I am trying these other outputs.\nThese other outputs use different timers in the 2560 as well.\nI have tried all sorts and combinations of firmware settings, different USB cable and different USB ports on my computer, with no change.\nWhat might I be missing?\n\",markshancock,\"Have you checked the supply voltage? With everything turned on (steppers stepping, laser on, etc) you may be pulling too much current and the supply voltage is drooping. \n\nUse DVM to measure the DC voltage. Also you will need to check for supply ripple. \nFor that, either an oscilloscope or use DVM set for AC voltage.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4372,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thinkcat,2.8153892694839717,4.584989866097122,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Are there any non-static (ESD safe) materials to print with?,\"I am attempting to replace an SFX power supply of my computer with a PicoPSU. I would like to manufacture a plate to fill the vacant place and to pass through the power lead, and maybe host a power switch and a 60 mm fan.\n\nThe thing is, I need to have a material that is ESD safe, i.e. does not collect static electricity. Meaning that the conductivity should be somewhere between 10^(-4)and 10^(-9) if plastic. And also a material that can take screws. So, a metal or some kind of conductive plastic.\n\nQuestion is, are there any known ones?\n\nIf I will seek out to buy or borrow a 3D printer, I need it to support this choice of material.\n\",markshancock,\"\nYes there are ESD Compatible filament materials. One manufacturer is 3dxtech.\nThere are also filament materials that are even more conductive than that.\nPretty much all rigid filaments can \"\"take screws\"\". You can either have a hole that and let the screw self thread or tap the threads into the hole. A better option is often to press a threaded insert into a hole.\nThe bigger question is why do you need this? Are you trying to prevent ESD. If so, why, are there ESD sensitive components? If so, just make sure proper spacing is provided. If you are trying to manage electrical emissions/susceptibility, there might be better solutions such as a coating.\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4381,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,jbiondo,3.0576060275493275,6.066836561245511,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.929104701733314,4.410384278773418,Is there a way to invert motor direction with GCode instead of Firmware in Marlin,\"Is there a way to change the direction a motor goes with GCode instead of reconfiguring Marlin firmware?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"You can use M92 to change the axis steps per unit to a negative value, which causes it to move in the opposite direction. I.e. if normally your X axis has 160 steps per mm, using M92 X-160 will invert all of its movements.\n\nHowever, this is more of a hack than a real, intended solution. It would be better to (if you are concerned with the homing direction) change the configuration to have the printer home in the other direction. Unfortunately, this can only be done by changing the firmware and not through G-code.\n\",3.367452517504837,0.0\n4385,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,AdamP,0.0,3.8538768031280664,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Why do 3D Printers Suck? Please share your user experience,\"I'm working with a group at the MIT Launch startup accelerator for high school and I was hoping to do some market research regarding some of the current problems with desktop 3D printers. I was hoping to get some feedback from all your experience with 3D printing and the hours of troubleshooting you've likely encountered.\n\nWhat workarounds and aftermarket modifications are the most useful? If you could change one thing about your printer what would it be? How do you troubleshoot issues and how long does it take? What would make you more likely to 3d print more often (ie never clogged, didn't have to watch first layer, etc)? In your opinion, what are the biggest issues the desktop 3D printing industry faces? Just share any wishes, thoughts, hopes, dreams, etc about 3D printing\n\nThank you so much for your time and sharing your experience!\n\",Ecnerwal,\"Among the open-source printer community there is a logically based, yet sometimes taken to inappropriate places desire to make printers \"\"self-replicating\"\" either fully, or more commonly \"\"other than a few purchased parts.\"\"\n\nIn some cases this appears to lead to questionable design choices when some other process or material might be more appropriate to the job at hand. \n\nOther than that (and sometimes influenced by it) the usual joys of getting the bed flat, the dimensions accurate, and figuring out the secret to getting the first layer to stick (with the sad realization that this may change somewhat with each new spool of filament - or even over the life of a spool of filament without taking extreme measures to keep it dry.) \n\nIn the \"\"sure, there probably are packages out there if you have wads of cash\"\" line would be structural analysis that takes into account the printing direction/layers and perhaps even optimizes that (though to optimize it, it would need some user input on what's most important, and that gets tricky with unsophisticated users...) or effectively a \"\"smart slicer\"\" that grasps where strength is needed and how to get it, without too much overkill. \n\nOn the reverse view, making something and having it break is HIGHLY educational (if treated that way) and that's nothing to sneeze at. But practically speaking I think we end up doing a lot of overkill to try to make sure that things don't break, with limited knowledge of the problems and limited tools available in the slicers.\n\nUnder pure pipe dreams (such as I understand the actual needs of the process) some type of easier recycling would be nice, as the various things needing to be sorted out lead to a LOT of scrap parts, at least at first.\n\nAnd moving from scrap to \"\"really annoying scrap\"\" - nozzle drool. It's not hands-off on most printers I'm familiar with (which isn't many.)\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4385,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,AdamP,0.0,3.8538768031280664,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Why do 3D Printers Suck? Please share your user experience,\"I'm working with a group at the MIT Launch startup accelerator for high school and I was hoping to do some market research regarding some of the current problems with desktop 3D printers. I was hoping to get some feedback from all your experience with 3D printing and the hours of troubleshooting you've likely encountered.\n\nWhat workarounds and aftermarket modifications are the most useful? If you could change one thing about your printer what would it be? How do you troubleshoot issues and how long does it take? What would make you more likely to 3d print more often (ie never clogged, didn't have to watch first layer, etc)? In your opinion, what are the biggest issues the desktop 3D printing industry faces? Just share any wishes, thoughts, hopes, dreams, etc about 3D printing\n\nThank you so much for your time and sharing your experience!\n\",markshancock,\"First, regarding \"\"Why do 3D Printers Suck?\"\" - The answer is They Don't!\n\nEvery tool has its limitations and you need to work withing the limitations of the tool.\n\nSecond, there are A LOT of different types/technologies, manufacturers, and price points and all of these have specific limitations.\n\nI live in Tigard, OR and both my boys are in High School. Our High School has a pretty advanced Technologies Department. We have had a 3D printer for a several years and use it for printing parts for our after school programs (we have three FTC teams, one FRC team, and one (underwater) MATE team). This last year the school introduced a CAD class and added about 15-20 new Afina printers so that the students can print what they design.\n\nI talked to my sons (they have both used the printers) and they said the only problems they ran into were mistakes they made. Two examples of that are:\n\n\nPrinting with ABS and having it warp (probably bed temp)\nTrying to print a design with too thin a wall\n\n\nI think there is a BIG opportunity for improvement here. Having a \"\"Slicing\"\" program that doesn't require tweaking and would warn of likely print problems would help A LOT. I like the idea of the new PrusaControl. If this idea could be extended further as Thomas Sanladerer suggested in his video review\n\nI know the Head of Technologies Department (I help mentor several of the after school programs). He has been responsible for getting printers and I recall he was concerned about more high-level things:\n\n\nService, Maintenance and Repair\nFumes (this is a lot of printers in one place with students in the same room)\nNetwork interface and driver compatibility with school computer/network standards.\n\n\nI believe there is another opportunity here. If you could provide some sort of a \"\"printer farm\"\" where the students could send their print to the \"\"farm\"\" and then have a highly visible indicator on the selected printer would their name/ID when their print starts. That way you can get more efficient use of the printers and the space they consume. \n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n4395,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Daniel Parker,2.8153892694839717,6.589188569671571,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,Setup Creality CR-10 in Cura,\"Can anyone help me find/confirm the information needed to setup the CR-10 in the Cura Software\n\nI have following settings from research:\n\nPrinter Settings\n\n\nx = 300 mm\ny = 300 mm\nz = 400 mm\nBuild Plate = Rectangular\nMachine Center is Zero = Checked\nHeated Bed = Checked\nG-code Flavor = RepRap (Marlin/Sprinter) -- Uncertain - please help confirm this\n\n\nPrint Head Settings\n\n\nX min = Unclear where this comes from\nY min = Unclear where this comes from\nX max = Unclear where this comes from\nY max = Unclear where this comes from\nGantry Height = Unclear where this is measured from\nNumber of Extruders = 1\nMaterial Diameter - 1.75 mm\nNozzle size = 0.4 mm\n\n\",Tim Kuipers,\"GCode flavor: the firmware your machine uses. Google tells me CR-10 uses Marlin, so you should select that. Volumetric Marlin is not very common.\n\nPrint Head Settings\nX/Y min/max define the bounding box of the area your print head takes up. Measure the distance from the centre of the nozzle to the left-most point of the print head and do the same for the right-most, front-most and back-most.\n\nGantry Height is the distance from the tip of the nozzle to the lowest point of the gantry, which is the axle on which the print head is mounted.\n\nThese print head settings are only used for one-at-a-time printing.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n4395,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Daniel Parker,2.8153892694839717,6.589188569671571,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,Setup Creality CR-10 in Cura,\"Can anyone help me find/confirm the information needed to setup the CR-10 in the Cura Software\n\nI have following settings from research:\n\nPrinter Settings\n\n\nx = 300 mm\ny = 300 mm\nz = 400 mm\nBuild Plate = Rectangular\nMachine Center is Zero = Checked\nHeated Bed = Checked\nG-code Flavor = RepRap (Marlin/Sprinter) -- Uncertain - please help confirm this\n\n\nPrint Head Settings\n\n\nX min = Unclear where this comes from\nY min = Unclear where this comes from\nX max = Unclear where this comes from\nY max = Unclear where this comes from\nGantry Height = Unclear where this is measured from\nNumber of Extruders = 1\nMaterial Diameter - 1.75 mm\nNozzle size = 0.4 mm\n\n\",Paul Krzywdik,\"In addition to this answer, the \"\"Machine Center is Zero\"\", should not be checked. It will begin the print in the current location of the Printing Head.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4397,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Connor Monaghan,2.528907649931287,5.215442021281396,0.0,2.011441651225199,4.091740895605862,4.592941926651472,Mechanics for modelling a push button latch spring,\"I am designing a door to put on a small enclosure that will open and close upon pressing a button. The idea is something similar to what you would find on an external DVD reader. My problem is with the actual button I understand I will need to use springs for this but I can not figure out the mechanics of the button.\n\nAre there 3D-printable, mechanical designs that could fit for this purpose?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"A commonly seen method to provide spring action in a 3D printed model is to use a series of curved and straight segments. Some of the designs use the segment assembly in compression, aligned with the plane of the print, while others use the segment assembly for springiness perpendicular to the plane of the print.\n\nAn example of the latter is a squishy turtle from Thingiverse resulting in four legs that provide some bounce to the turtle if dropped from a small height. This video shows the movement of the legs more clearly, as there were no suitable still photos available on the site.\n\nThe image below shows another spring type print from Thingiverse in which the forces are in line with the print plane.\n\n\n\nThe S-curves cannot be too thick or movement will be severely limited, and too thin means impossible to print and possibly reduced lifespan.\n\nMany designs abound with a search of the 'net for \"\"3D printed springs.\"\"\n\",3.5068404193471867,0.0\n4411,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,iAdjunct,3.267423727073639,6.7004692688003225,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.6553159206313057,Monoprice Select IIIP Plus - Best speed settings and speeding up prints,\"How do I speed up prints for the Monoprice Select IIIP Plus printer?\n\nThe manual shows [Cura] examples of:\n\n\nPrint speed: 50mm/s\nTravel Speed: 80mm/s\nBottom Layer Speed: 20mm/s\nInfill Speed: 50mm/s\nOuter shell speed: 15mm/s\nInner shell speed: 30mm/s\n\n\nHowever, this doesn’t line up with their advertisements online of a 150mm/s printing speed.\n\nAre there better settings to use, especially ones which can speed up printing time? Or are there any other measures which I can take in order to reduce printing time in general? \n\",bgiv,\"In my experience a print speed of 50-70mm/s is ideal. Even if you set the speed to 150mm/s the print head still changes directions often and rarely will have enough time to accelerate from 0->150 before changing direction again. \n\nSome more effective ways of speeding up prints is to adjust\n\n\nLayer height\nInfill percentage (15-25% for regular prints, more if they need to be more sound)\nSupports\nNumber of shells, etc\n\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n4411,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,iAdjunct,3.267423727073639,6.7004692688003225,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.6553159206313057,Monoprice Select IIIP Plus - Best speed settings and speeding up prints,\"How do I speed up prints for the Monoprice Select IIIP Plus printer?\n\nThe manual shows [Cura] examples of:\n\n\nPrint speed: 50mm/s\nTravel Speed: 80mm/s\nBottom Layer Speed: 20mm/s\nInfill Speed: 50mm/s\nOuter shell speed: 15mm/s\nInner shell speed: 30mm/s\n\n\nHowever, this doesn’t line up with their advertisements online of a 150mm/s printing speed.\n\nAre there better settings to use, especially ones which can speed up printing time? Or are there any other measures which I can take in order to reduce printing time in general? \n\",H. Medina,\"I was using Cura's default settings for a Prusa I3 on my MonoPrice Select V2 (model #13860), and got horrible results frequently. Then I used the settings you list, and got very nice results. Compare the below images for the bottom layer of 4 benchys, with adhesion brim.\n\nI'm using PLA, 0.4mm nozzle, 60C for bed, 200C for extruder, 1.75mm filament from Hatchbox.\n\nDefault Cura Settings\n\n\nListed Settings\n\n\nSettings breakdown\n\nSetting Cura default Recommended\nPrint Speed 60 50\nOuter Wall Speed 30 15\nInner Wall Speed 60 30\nTop/Bottom Speed 30 20\nTravel Speed 120 80\n\n\nSymptoms of my printer being told to print too fast:\n\nMaterial would not adhere properly to the print bed, and would start making clumps. These would rest either on the bed, or on the nozzle itself. The ones on the bed would grow taller than layer height, making the next pass of the nozzle bump against it, further depositing material on it. The clumps on the nozzle would drop at other points, leaving stringing filament all over, and further compromising the next pass of the head.\n\nThis might seem like a bed adhesion problem, but the prints were very well attached to the bed; I had to apply a lot of force to remove a 15*15cm square from the bed.\n\nIncreasing the hot-end temperature seemed to help; at some point we were printing at 230C, well beyond Hatchbox' extrusion temperature range (range is listed as 180C-210C for this PLA batch).\n\nUltimately, reducing print speed to the settings listed helped us increase print quality back to acceptable levels.\n\",0.0,0.0\n4412,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Alsan Ali,1.726248027126092,3.4603828048255023,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Why isn't any color showing up in my .3mf file in Windows 10 3D Builder,\"So, I made a 3D picture of a cute mouse using Microsoft Paint 3D and exported it as a .3mf. \n\nWhy didn't the colors match when I opened the file in Microsoft 3D Builder?\n\",markshancock,\"Per the 3MF Specification, colors in the .3mf files are sRGB.\n\nIf you are looking at gross color defects, I would look a the raw codes generated in the 3mf to make sure they make sense.\n\nIf you are talking about subtle color differences, that is much more complicated.\n\nColor have always been a tough thing to define as it is affected by whether the it is emissive (like displayed on a screen) or reflective (like a physical object). The way it is perceived is affected by ambient light, surface texture and more. I worked on a project once where Marketing wanted all the colors to match (on the screen, on paper, on plastic, on on fabric) and it was a mess.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4414,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,guru_florida,1.0891412423578797,4.511195720179475,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How to thin UV sensitive resin,\"I have some older resin that got a bit thick. I was thinking I could use some paint thinner to thin it a bit and restore it. My thoughts are the paint thinner is made of terpene oils so should be compatible with the resin.\n\nTo test, I went ahead and mixed a half capful of paint thinner with about a cup of resin. I mixed it thoroughly and it seemed to mix well and restored proper viscosity. I then filtered it through a paper coffee filter twice. The results were very nice and smooth resin. I did a UV hardening test with a few drops on a strip and into the UV lamp. It still hardens. \n\nAny thoughts, suggestions or OMGs! before I try this in my printer? It's a Pegasus Touch SLA.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"You've covered a couple of concerns \"\"outside the box,\"\" but the real tests will come when you pour some of the resin into the vat. \n\nIf you don't get a reaction with the release layer, score one for your side. The release layer is a silicone kind of compound, which typically is un-reactive to most substances, but that's not to say the thinner qualifies in that respect.\n\nTo be cautious, you could dab a bit on the corner of the vat, especially out of the usual scan area or off the build plate contact surface. If it sits without clouding the release layer, the next test would be a layer test.\n\nYou could even remove the build plate, pour the modified resin in the vat and run a model comprised of only one layer, perhaps two. You'd be able to carefully pull the cured resin off the release layer and make a preliminary determination.\n\nIf all is well by this point, it's time to create a model, yes?\n\nI hope you'll report back on your results. My Pegasus is still in the box from Kickstarter days. I'm sure my resin is well beyond the \"\"sell-by\"\" date!\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4418,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Venkat Ramnath,1.0891412423578797,3.178518415635008,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,\"Printed part problem, distortion on upper section containing hole\",\"I cannot generate the upper part of the solid properly which contain a hole (as in the picture). The solid part (bottom section) printed well. \n\n\n\nWhat should I change to print the part with hole properly?\nIs it a problem with machine or the design?\nI am using Hydra 3D printer. \n\",tbm0115,\"This can be a product of poor overhang profiles and bridging. Issues with overhanging features can most easily be fixed by:\n\n\napplying active cooling (for PLA)\nslowing down your feedrate on outer shells\nor adjusting some of the more advanced slicing settings related to bridging/overhanging such as:\n\n\nanchors\nwidths\nfeedrates\nactive cooling speeds\netc.\n\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n4418,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Venkat Ramnath,1.0891412423578797,3.178518415635008,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,\"Printed part problem, distortion on upper section containing hole\",\"I cannot generate the upper part of the solid properly which contain a hole (as in the picture). The solid part (bottom section) printed well. \n\n\n\nWhat should I change to print the part with hole properly?\nIs it a problem with machine or the design?\nI am using Hydra 3D printer. \n\",fred_dot_u,\"It appears that the upper part of your print contains less plastic than the lower. This would mean that as the printer begins to operate in that area, the previously deposited plastic has less time to cool.\n\nThe distortions are difficult to see from the distortions of the photograph, but I've experienced similar upper, smaller section failures.\n\nYou could consider to print more than one copy of the item on the bed, which will require the nozzle to move away from each layer, allowing more cooling time, or add a throw-away model. \n\nI've also added an ooze shield using Simplify3D to create a single wall around the part, providing the same cooling time concept.\n\nIf you try these options and still experience a problem, please consider editing your post with material used (PLA, ABS, PETG, etc) as well as temperatures and speeds used for this print.\n\nYour slicer is not likely the problem, but is often useful information. Printer name is sometimes helpful, but I think it's not critical in this circumstance.\n\nIt's also useful to orient the part in the photograph to match that of the print. It's apparent in this case that the top of the print is to the right and bottom is to the left. If that is not correct, please advise in edit.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4421,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gerhard Nell,2.528907649931287,5.2127529102227,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,Ramps 1.4 1.8 stepper motor extrusion calculation,\"I have Ramps 1.4 and would like to get answer on extrusion in Marlin firmware. I have NEMA 17 stepper motor 1.8 deg, set to 1/16 step. Mk7 direct drive.\n38 teeth in extruder drive gear. I bought it from this website.\n\nHere are my current settings:\n\n#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80,80, 4000, 180 }\n#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 500, 500, 3, 45 } \n#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION { 9000, 9000, 100, 300 }\n\n\nI am using ABS 1.75 filament and a 0.4 nozzle.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"According to the description, the drive gear you have has a 10.8mm diameter. This means that (in the ideal case) one full rotation of the drive gear will advance a length of filament equal to its circumference, which is pi x 10.8mm or approximately 33.93mm.\n\nYour motor rotates 1.8 degrees per step, so it takes 360 / 1.8 = 200 steps for a full rotation. Since you are using 16x microstepping, this is multiplied to 200 x 16 = 3200 steps.\n\nYou thus end up with a steps per mm value of 3200 / 33.93 = 94.31 steps/mm.\n\nYou might need to calibrate this further, for instance by extruding a set length of filament (e.g. 100mm) and measuring how much is actually extruded, and then compensating the steps/mm value to get you closer to the desired 100mm. A simple way to measure this is to put a mark on your filament at 150mm from the extruder, and then (after extruding 100mm) measure how close the mark is to the extruder (which should be 50mm) However, this theoretically computed value should be a good starting point. Note that the speed you do this test at should be close to your normal printing speed, since extruding at a much higher (resp. lower) speed will falsely lead you to believe you are underextruding (resp. overextruding).\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n4421,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gerhard Nell,2.528907649931287,5.2127529102227,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,Ramps 1.4 1.8 stepper motor extrusion calculation,\"I have Ramps 1.4 and would like to get answer on extrusion in Marlin firmware. I have NEMA 17 stepper motor 1.8 deg, set to 1/16 step. Mk7 direct drive.\n38 teeth in extruder drive gear. I bought it from this website.\n\nHere are my current settings:\n\n#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80,80, 4000, 180 }\n#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 500, 500, 3, 45 } \n#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION { 9000, 9000, 100, 300 }\n\n\nI am using ABS 1.75 filament and a 0.4 nozzle.\n\",onurozturk,\"Simplest way to calculate your extrusion is:\n\nSet your number of perimeters walls 1\ntop and bottom layer 0\ninfill 0%\nand print simple 20x20x20 cube \nlook at the wall thickness with caliper and compare your extrusion width value on your slicer software\n\",0.0,0.0\n4424,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,NeverGiveUp,1.726248027126092,3.510789227224567,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How do I decrypt messages on my Repetier firmware?,\"I need to send a complex password to my machine. The machine needs to decrypt it and run it. I have not found enough resources for such an operation. \n\nMore detailed description:\n\nI am developing a new feature for my 3D printer which runs on Repetier. (It may be on a different firmware that I can do this job).\nI want to change my 3D printer so it can understand special encrypted G-codes alongside normal g-codes. Lets describe it with an example:\n\nNormally, 3D printers can read and apply standard g-code files like:\n\nG28\nG0 X10 Y20 E30\n.\n.\n.\netc.\n\n\nBut I am developing a g-code encryption method which encrypts any g-code and turns it into a text like:\n \n\nM999 !4#^\nM999 ^s+.&&/..* ….\n.\n.\netc.\n\n\nI want to change the firmware for my printer so it understands if the related g-code is encrypted by checking every line if it stars with M999 (or starts with some other pattern character which I will decide later).\n\nTo do is, I need to understand how Repetier works, especially how command debug works and how I can parse my encrypted code from my encrypted g-code file.\n\nI could not understand how repetier.h / command.cpp works and how it parses the line and redirects to functional cases.\n\",Matt Clark,\"Looking through the source I found Commands.cpp that has a loop.\n\nvoid Commands::commandLoop() {\n while(true) {\n ...\n Commands::executeGCode(code);\n }\n}\n\n\nIf we find the executeGCode method, we see that it calls:\n\nprocessMCode(com);\n\n\nAnd finding the processMCode method, we have the switch case you can add your own logic to.\n\nvoid Commands::processMCode(GCode *com) {\n switch( com->M ) {\n case 3: // Spindle/laser on\n ...\n\n case 999: // Your custom logic\n\n\nAfter decoding your encrypted string, I think it would be best to call back into the first method mentioned, and let the process start from the top with the unencrypted command.\n\ncase 999:\n\n // Custom logic\n executeGCode(unencrypted);\n break;\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4427,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joe Blow,3.452496054252184,5.226424250702977,2.7799718631987322,2.011441651225199,3.548335113978322,3.9829738809469584,How to print a two color part with only one extruder,\"I'm planning my first project. I want to print an iPhone case with a flush letter on the back, but I want the letter in a different color (single extruder printer). The thing is the two colors will be on the same level. Do I create two separate models, import them to a single model, mesh the parts and somehow specify which one to start on, then just change the filament when it's done with the first section? Will the letter be loose fitting in the cut out? Or will I need to print them separately and glue them together?\n\nWhat is a good slicing software to accomplish this?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"What you ask may be easier than you think. The slicing software is unimportant, generally speaking. Consider especially that your requirements fit the solution spot on.\n\nTake a look at this thingiverse snowman.\n\n\n\nEach of the colors is a separate model. Each of the colors is only one layer thick (0.200 mm). Each of the colors is placed with zero overlap to the adjacent colors, as the extrusion multiplier will allow enough \"\"squish\"\" to cause a bond to its neighbor.\n\nYou would create a model with the necessary shape for your lettering and insert the appropriate color for them. Print that model but leave it on the bed. If the bed is heated, all the better, but don't let it cool to the point of release. If it's not heated, the adhesive should hold it until project completion.\n\nFor the main background color, your model would be normal but with a single layer subtracted at the base. The subtraction would have to be the shape of the lettering. Consider that you're creating indented or recessed lettering. Use appropriate modeling techniques to perform this action.\n\nKeep in mind that you'll want the lettering to be mirrored, as you're printing it \"\"upside down\"\" on the build plate.\n\nSwap out the filament to the main color and print.\n\nYou are color limited only by your determination and patience, as you have to swap out filament and also have to create appropriate models with recesses to take the first layer, of which you'll also have to create models.\n\nI've created at least one of the snowman pictured and it came out quite good. The layman will not be as astonished as someone familiar with 3D modeling and printing, however. You get a better appreciation when you know what goes into the project to get this result.\n\nEDIT to add more info, rather than fill the comments:\n\nThe above method works only because the inlay is a single layer deep. If your slicer supports changing layer thickness during a print, you could print the first layer at the max for your nozzle, say 0.3 mm then set layer 2 and upwards to the resolution you desire for the majority of your print. I use Simplify3D which supports such actions. I'm not sure of the others.\n\nRelevant to the questions posed in the comments, your modeling software may be a factor in this process. The modeling software will create/assign a pivot point or some other name to a location of reference in the model. The slicer will use that to position the model on the bed.\n\nHere's a concept I would use to perform this task. Start with your single layer lettering, ensuring that the thickness of the letters will match your first layer height. Save the model as an STL file. Leave the lettering on the screen in your modeling software.\n\nCreate or import the case file. Position it as you wish relative to the letters. Of course, both models will be flat on the build plane or all bets are off. Use the lettering in a boolean subtraction to remove the shapes from the phone case model.\n\nIf the above does not remove the lettering model, delete that and you have the recess. Save this model in STL.\n\nWhen you load the models in the slicer, they should drop into the same location relative to each other.\n\nWhen you print the letters, they will be on layer one. When you print the remaining model, the cut-out portion will be on layer one, while the rest is placed atop the two color portion. The print head will move up one layer to adjust for the extra depth.\n\nIf you require the letters to be thicker than a single layer, one of the options you have is also in your question. Create the letters in the thickness you wish, use them to create the recess in the case and print separately. In so doing, you will be counting on the printer's ability to make clean bridges. The letters may fit cleanly, may have some play or slop, or be too large to fit easily. It would behoove you to make a test piece or two, perhaps a simple slab with one or two letters to see how that concept works in the real world. I was pleasantly surprised to see how well the public library's genuine Prusa i3 MK2S performed a challenging bridging operation.\n\nI apologize for overlooking the reference to first project. With that in mind, I would consider that this is a slightly advanced project. Your modeling software and modeling software skills will obviously come into play here and is a separate subject/question/topic for discussion.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n4429,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,KoKo,1.726248027126092,5.25138420245175,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"Creality 3D Ender-4, a \"\"extruder kit\"\" does not fit the frame\",\"This is my first time building a 3D printer (a \"\"Creality Ender-4\"\").\n\nEverything is going fine except the \"\"extruder kit\"\" part that does not have enough space to attach on the frame. Should I drill it to have a longer hole so it can be attached to the frame? I just want another set of eyes to look at it to make sure I'm not crazy.\n\n\n\n\n\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Your request appears to be \"\"another set of eyes\"\" and I'll add to that by adding another photo:\n\n\n\nIf you compare the photo from the official store you can see the gap between the mounting screw and the body of the extruder assembly is obviously wider in the official photo. On the plus side, the extruder mount is not something that would be considered system critical, because you're using a Bowden tube design. Even a bit of misalignment would mean zero impact on the printed model quality.\n\nConsider to contact the seller, including the photo from the store and your photo and ask for a correct mounting plate. You would likely be able to use the oversize hole mount until a replacement arrives. For such a small part, they should not charge you.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4429,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,KoKo,1.726248027126092,5.25138420245175,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"Creality 3D Ender-4, a \"\"extruder kit\"\" does not fit the frame\",\"This is my first time building a 3D printer (a \"\"Creality Ender-4\"\").\n\nEverything is going fine except the \"\"extruder kit\"\" part that does not have enough space to attach on the frame. Should I drill it to have a longer hole so it can be attached to the frame? I just want another set of eyes to look at it to make sure I'm not crazy.\n\n\n\n\n\n\",Tenos,\"Dude, you're absolutely not crazy, I almost put the entire thing back in the box when I realized I'd have to void the warranty just to finish putting together my printer but I wound up boring out the holes a bit closer to the edges of the extruder and assembling it all the same, it works wonderfully now that I have it attached.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4448,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,soundsbeard,2.1782824847157594,2.877598637377739,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,cura shows different Z heights,\"Cura v2.5.0\nI've been working in Blender for some time, so I have experience with exporting stl from it with exact size and I had no scale issues with slicing.\nBut today cura showed a strange thing.\nThese are 3dBenchy and a stretched cube which are supposed to have 45mm height, also \"\"boundary boxes\"\" are turned on to show that there is no flying geometry. \n\n \n\nAs you can see below cura shows same size visually but different in numbers.\n \n\nAnd if I scale the ship inside the cura it will look like this\n(low reputation) http://dl3.joxi.net/drive/2017/08/01/0001/2747/88763/63/969fe8bc67.jpg\n\nDoes anyone know if I screwed up the model somehow or can it be considered as a bug?\n\",0scar,\"Converted comment on OP to answer:\n\nThe comment links to a question on SE.Blender; the answer that led to the solution is quoted below.\n\n\n The STL exporter doesn't take Scene Scale into account. Import your\n STL back into Blender (it will have the same size) and drag Scene\n Scale up back to 1.0, and you'll see how the cube grows relative to\n the grid.\n \n 1 Blender unit equals 1m, but STL seems to assume 1 unit as 1cm.\n \n If you want 1 unit to be 1mm, set Scale on STL export to 0.1 and \n Scene Scale to 0.001 to make it match the output scale in viewport.\n \n Note that the STL will be 10x smaller if you re-import it into\n Blender!\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4449,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ovaryraptor,2.528907649931287,4.264003708874216,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,\"How to \"\"paint\"\" a mesh on a stl/obj\",\"I have almost 0 experience in 3d modeling and I'm looking for a simple way to color a model. \n\nI want to replicate this paint job of a model.\n\nI've tried Blender, tried Mudbox and I don't have the money for Mari which is the software being used in the video.\n\nThe issue with both is that it seems to take forever to try and paint them. It's a high-poly model with a bunch of vertices. Both programs seize up and hang and I'm forced to quit them.\n\nHow can I simply and efficiently color the model to get it ready for sandstone color printing?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"If you've looked into using Blender, you would have discovered that that program is free. It is also one of the better suited programs available for the task you've selected. \n\nIt's possible that your search terms may not have provided the best results for your objective. The task you describe is known as UV mapping, also known as adding texture to mesh, adding texture to a model. The generic term \"\"texture\"\" can be confused, as many people would consider texture to be the feel of a surface. Rough, smooth, slippery, etc., do not apply here.\n\nTexture in the 3D modeling world applies to a surface description specific to visibility. In your task, texture refers directly to color.\n\nConsider to search using the above terms or follow this lead:\nAdd texture to model Blender\n\nDoing so provided a few quite well written links. One of the first to appear is an Instructable.\n\nThe above Instructable also links to a video, which is also a good location for learning basics for Blender and texturing models.\n\nThe above search also results in finding an SE entry directly related to Blender:\nStackExchange Blender texture Q/A\n\nConsider that you can create a flat image using your preferred graphics editor, placing shapes and colors as needed and then \"\"project\"\" or paste or plaster or project that image on the surface of the model in a controlled manner. This would be easier and faster than attempting to color manually individual triangles of the model's mesh. The SE link summarizes this process, although additional research is indicated.\n\nPractice with Blender on simplified models and you should be able to grasp the necessary skills in short order.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n4452,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,HuwD,2.528907649931287,5.233649036343239,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Low Filament Sensor for Creality CR-10?,\"I have been playing with my CR-10 for about a month now and I was wondering if there is a low filament sensor available for the CR10. \n\nI found this listing on Amazon, Creality 3D Printer CR-10 S4 with Filament Monitor Dual Z Rod Screws 400x400x400mm, which is for the larger model which has a built in low filament sensor, and I was wondering if the sensor could be bought separately and installed on my CR-10. \n\nAlternatively, I have had a look around and only found this, XCSOURCE 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament Detection Sensor Module Filament Run Out Pause Monitor for 3D Printer DIY Kit TE720. By looks of it, it needs to be attached to the main board in the control box. \n\nCan anyone tell me if this would be compatible?\n\",Greenonline,\"TL;DR\n\nYou need to have the version 2.x controller board (and the associated CR-10S firmware) to use the filament sensor. If you do not then you will need to upgrade your controller board.\n\n\n\nBoard Comparison\n\nFor an excellent breakdown of the boards, read Creality CR-10 and CR-10S Models – What Printer do you have. \n\nThere appear to be two basic model versions of controller board, which use different firmware:\n\n\nController board v1.1.2 (or v1.1.3 with additional filter capacitor) which uses CR-10 firmware. These have a small Atmel ATmega1284P chip, and one Z-axis stepper connector;\nController board v2.0 (or v2.1 with extra fan ports) which uses CR-10S firmware. These have a large Atmel ATmega2560 chip, and two Z-axis stepper connectors.\n\n\nSee the section Board examples at the bottom of this answer for a visual comparison of the two boards.\n\nIt is the v2.x (CR-10S) board that has the filament detector, which uses the X+ endstop connector:\n\n\n\nTo quote part of the page:\n\n\n Please make sure you know what printer you have. There are 8 DIFFERENT models from Creality. There are 2 different boards across these models. The easiest way to identify what one you have is if it has a filament sensor or not. If it does then you have a CR-10S machine. If it does not then it is a CR-10.\n \n Just because you have a CR-10 S4 or CR-10 S5 that does NOT make it a CR-10S.\n \n The S4 and S5 sizes come available with either board versions. Again the main way to tell is if you have a filament sensor from Creality or not. Whether you have Dual Z or not does NOT matter. What matters is what board is in the enclosure.\n \n Typically every CR-10S board came with a filament sensor. So if you don’t have a filament sensor then it is the CR-10 and you need use the CR-10 firmware. However we have seen some CR-10 Mini machines ship with CR-10S boards. Use the below pictures of the boards that are in the wild to identify what model you have. The important thing is to use the correct firmware for the board that is in your machine.\n\n\n\n\nSeparate upgrade\n\nWith respect to the first question, you would be best off contacting Creality directly, via their customer support, to see if the sensor is available separately. This would probably make for the least painful method of implementing the filament sensor.\n\nAlternatively, there is this kit, Creality CR-10S Upgrade Kit, for $120:\n\n\n Best Upgrade Kit for your Creality CR-10 3D Printer contains Dual Z axis for Stability in 3D Prints & Filament Monitoring Alarm Protection (Sensor) which alerts you when the filament has ran out or broken for Smart 3D Printing\n\n\n\n\nThere seems to be a dual-Z option, for an extra $80\n\n\n\nHacked solution\n\nFor the second question, the XCSOURCE 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament Detection Sensor Module Filament Run Out Pause Monitor for 3D Printer DIY Kit TE720, \n\n\n\nthe instructions state that it is designed principally for Lerdge control boards:\n\n\n Instruction:\n \n \n When you are using a Lerdge brand motherboard: The green light on the motherboard will turn off when the filament runs out, the\n motherboard will stop printing until you supplement the filament and\n continue printing. (Please connect to the M-sensor Interface)\n When you are using other brand motherboard: The Detection Module uses the level transition detection method. While there still have\n filament in the module, the detection port shows as high level; when\n there is no filament in the module, the detection port will transform\n to low level as \"\"Filament Run Out Command\"\" which will stop the\n printing, so you will have time to supplement the filament and\n continue printing.\n \n\n\nSo, it is not particularly clear as to whether it will work with your board - for it to do so, your board would need to have:\n\n\nA compatible input (i.e. X+ endstop);\nThe compatible firmware (CR-10S), and;\nUse compatible logic levels (i.e. active LOW to shutdown printing).\n\n\nIf not, then given point #2, it would appear to require additional external logic, or microcontroller, to sense the transition to LOW and then shutdown the printer.\n\nFor example, this chap on Thingiverse, Cr-10 Filament Sensor Bracket & Tutorial, states that they bought a sensor off eBay, that looks similar, and they provide a printable mount and instructions on how to use it with a CR-10. However, it is not a standalone affair as shown in the CR-10 S4 - because an additional Raspberry Pi and OctoPrint is required.\n\nTo use this particular sensor with your board, you would need to:\n\n\nSee if which controller board you have - either the CR-10 or the CR-10S compatible board (see Board Comparison above). If it is the CR-10S therefore it has the compatible input (X+ endstop), and firmware, needed for the filament sensor, \nEnable the use of the sensor, if necessary, in the firmware (either by the UI if possible or uploading new firmware) and;\nCheck whether the CR-10 controller board uses active LOW to detect a lack of filament (or again, this may be a UI, or firmware, setting) \n\nYou could test this last point yourself, by applying a LOW level voltage (i.e. grounding) to X+ endstop input on the control board (after checking the UI/firmware for appropriate settings), and see if that halts/pauses the print. If not, try a HIGH level (5 V). If it is active HIGH then you simply need to use an inverter (i.e. 4069), between the sensor and the X+ endstop connector.\n\n\n\n\nBoard examples\n\nThere are two principle board options, v1.x and v2.x, the latter has dual Z stepper motor connectors and the former does not .For example:\n\nVersion 1.x, for CR-10 firmware - Motherboard Controller DIY Creality 3D® CR-10 / CR-10S 3D Printer CR-10 Upgrade Control Board12V (CR-10S Mainboard)\n\n\n\nVersion 2.x (2.1 in this case) with Dual Z stepper connectors, for CR-10S firmware - Luxnwatts CR-10S Mainboard Replacement Controller Board Upgrade V2.1 Motherboard For Creality S4 S5 3D Printer\n\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4459,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,HuwD,3.267423727073639,4.376775599610133,1.7539669625835614,5.646830619998737,2.746326330407206,2.573796998740239,Noise Reduction,\"I am looking for methods to reduce the amount of noise produced by my CR-10. I have the printer in my downstairs study and if I'm doing a long print job, you can hear it upstairs in my son's bedroom and I don't want it keep him awake.\n\nI've seen there are noise reduction feet available on Thingiverse but apparently these can result quite significant vibrations of the printer itself, which could mess up the print.\n\nI've also seen one guy using a paving block but I'm not sure how effective that would be and also don't think my cheap Ikea desk would cope very well with having a concrete block put on it.\n\nI was wondering about trying an off-cut of carpet. Has anyone tried this or have any other suggestions?\n\",Shahin,\"Change DRV8825 / A49nn series on board stepper driver with Trinamics TM2100 ( in silentChop mode) will make your step motors almost silent. They are outstanding.\n\nBut there are couple of disadvantages:\n\n\nThere is chance of losing steps in slientChop (Would not effect print quality in my experience)\nTMC2100 is 5-6x times more expensive than DRV8825\nRequire soldering and electronic knowledge\nTMC2100 runs hotter\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4459,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,HuwD,3.267423727073639,4.376775599610133,1.7539669625835614,5.646830619998737,2.746326330407206,2.573796998740239,Noise Reduction,\"I am looking for methods to reduce the amount of noise produced by my CR-10. I have the printer in my downstairs study and if I'm doing a long print job, you can hear it upstairs in my son's bedroom and I don't want it keep him awake.\n\nI've seen there are noise reduction feet available on Thingiverse but apparently these can result quite significant vibrations of the printer itself, which could mess up the print.\n\nI've also seen one guy using a paving block but I'm not sure how effective that would be and also don't think my cheap Ikea desk would cope very well with having a concrete block put on it.\n\nI was wondering about trying an off-cut of carpet. Has anyone tried this or have any other suggestions?\n\",typo,\"I use a paving block with rubber feet underneath it on the floor. It is very effective: The 3D printer is sitting right beside a door, and you can't hear it printing from the other side of the door.\n\nThe low-frequency sounds are definitely absorbed by the paving block. What you can hear now are only the hissing sounds, when the extruder glides along the rods.\n\nI wouldn't put the paving block on a table, though, or anything elevated, since that will only magnify the lever effect of the table legs and exacerbate vibrations.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4455,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Frank Lopez Jr.,0.0,4.27336973029714,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Monoprice Select Mini v2 clogged Boden tube connection,\"I have had my Monoprice Select Mini v2 for about two weeks now and I get a clicking noise on my filament insert on some prints and when I check a few minutes later, I can see that it's not extruding and that there is a clog of some sort. \n\nI checked to see whethere there was possibly a clog in my hot end or nozzle, but there was nothing there. So I checked my Boden tube to see if the filament was brittle and had broken, but I found that there was plastic with a slight twist clogged in the Boden tube connector. When it first happened I had used an Allen wrench to push the plastic out. The second time it was harder and took heating the connector piece up to melt the plastic and pull it out. \n\nNow I know (from the ticking) that my gear feeder is making a clicking noise - as it did when it was clogged. So when I hear that, I just push the lever to loosen it and it sounds like it releases tension. So is there a way to stop this or prevent it? I tried upping the temperature on the nozzle but it didn't help much. I'm printing from an average of 60°C and a high of 80°C with PLA.\n\",galamdring,\"If you are heating your hotend to 60/80, that is WAY too low. PLA should be at 180+ hotend, and if you are using a heated bed, 60-80.\n\nI would try increasing the heat of your hotend, starting at 180 and increasing if it looks like it is underextruding or if you get more clogs.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4457,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ross,3.0576060275493275,4.34759906355837,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Filament not feeding then eventually blocked,\"I have an ANET A2 Prusa - which I've setup and performed a few prints on and they have various problems with the quality. I'm after some specific experience on what the flow of filament should look like or if my decription triggers someone \n\nI've been adjusting settings - In particular the temperature - as the filament seemed too fluid as I could easily cause a large spurt of molten plastic by manually pushing the filament with very little effort. \n\nSo I reduced the head temperature to 195 and all seemed better \n\nHowever after a time - I noticed on a longer print that the feeding was sometimes failing with the filament jerking back as the feeder slipped off it \n\nThe stepper did not appear to slip back just the gear skipped on the filament\nIt appeared to cause a problem in the print with a few of the lines being missing before it started extruding normally again\n\nI increased the temperature back to 200 - however the issue continued intermittently however I left it and when I returned the head had become blocked with the final part of the succesful print consisting of very thin hair like extrusions and eventually stopping completely\n\nThe head is flooded and I need to clean it out \n\nSo my questions are - how runny should the filament look when the head is at the correct temperatures, is the extremely runny filament I saw at 200 obviously too hot - or is that normal or at least have people seen it looking like that when successfully printing?\n\nInitially , before I reduced the temperature, I doubled the skirt and that seem to make a good enough print \n\nDoes anyone have experience of why it can seem to be printing but then slowly start failing until the head becomes blocked?\n\",Stepan Novikov,\"From my experience with mk8 extruders lower than optimal nozzle temperature or clogged nozzle can lead to an extruder's stepper motor overheating and partial burning out of a stepper\n\nIt looks like “Achilles' heel” of mk8 extruders. I had to change 4 stepper motors for 2 3d printers with mk8 due to that\n\nFirst symptoms – skipped steps. You could also check a temperature of your stepper – next symptom is a high temperature of stepper motor after several hours of printing\n\nMy fix for this issue – adding cooling fans to stepper sides and top (3 fans). It significantly reduced overheating and hopefully a life of stepper\n\nAnother solution of this issue can be in using of a stepper motor with gearbox to increase torque on a filament gear, so no high torque needed from stepper itself\n\nAbout printing temperature, it depends on plastic which you are using\n\nI’m using ABS plastic with an optimal printing temperature from 230-260 Celsius degree. For my current plastic supplier optimal temp is about 255 Celsius degree\n\nTo check the optimal temperature for your plastic you can print one box in different temperatures depending on Z position and found the optimal temperature by the z position of surface with the best quality. You can find code samples how doing it here\n\nIf a temperature is too high then this part of the box will be bloated, if it's too low - you can see the gaps. Here is the video, which illustrating this for PLA\n\nUPDATE:\n\nThe issue was in the low temperature of printing. After calibration and setting temperature by calibration outcomes to 200 Celsius degree printer started working well\n\nHowever, please be aware of the fact that wrong printing temperature can not only decrease the quality of printed things, but also can lead to wear of your printer parts and even can break it\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n4457,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ross,3.0576060275493275,4.34759906355837,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Filament not feeding then eventually blocked,\"I have an ANET A2 Prusa - which I've setup and performed a few prints on and they have various problems with the quality. I'm after some specific experience on what the flow of filament should look like or if my decription triggers someone \n\nI've been adjusting settings - In particular the temperature - as the filament seemed too fluid as I could easily cause a large spurt of molten plastic by manually pushing the filament with very little effort. \n\nSo I reduced the head temperature to 195 and all seemed better \n\nHowever after a time - I noticed on a longer print that the feeding was sometimes failing with the filament jerking back as the feeder slipped off it \n\nThe stepper did not appear to slip back just the gear skipped on the filament\nIt appeared to cause a problem in the print with a few of the lines being missing before it started extruding normally again\n\nI increased the temperature back to 200 - however the issue continued intermittently however I left it and when I returned the head had become blocked with the final part of the succesful print consisting of very thin hair like extrusions and eventually stopping completely\n\nThe head is flooded and I need to clean it out \n\nSo my questions are - how runny should the filament look when the head is at the correct temperatures, is the extremely runny filament I saw at 200 obviously too hot - or is that normal or at least have people seen it looking like that when successfully printing?\n\nInitially , before I reduced the temperature, I doubled the skirt and that seem to make a good enough print \n\nDoes anyone have experience of why it can seem to be printing but then slowly start failing until the head becomes blocked?\n\",Dream Developer,\"From my experience with few printer, Sometime it's happen because of the filament. \nSolution-\nIf your printer have unload function or if you don't have that funstion select a printerable file and change temperature to 205-210 C and try to use long and thin hex key like this to push the filament out.\n-Make sure you extruder motor work accordingly to feed the nozzle. \n\n \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5357,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ross,1.0891412423578797,3.486049983626924,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How do Repetier coordinates setup work,\"I am using Repetier Host and Slic3r Prusa 1.36.2 - (the website says 1.2.9 is the latest version - however I don't believe this is the problem) . The printer is a Anet A3\n\nWith my current setup I am printing mirrored - I can mirror the objects in Repetier before slicing , however then the preview picture is wrong, and worse I have to remember.\n\nI have a Anet A3, the connectors for the motors are polarized and if I swap the X and Y cables when I home the X and Y motors move in the wrong direction.\n\nI believe the problem is the coordinates and I don't fully understand the Repetier coordinates. This is how I believe it is setup (these are Slic3r screen shots ) \n \n\nWhich I will call \"\"Front Left\"\" however my home position is Front Right - ie I believe it should look like this\n\n\n\nHowever these two screen shots are from the slicer - and these settings do not get used. In the Repetier they use a different system for setup. I tried these settings shown in Repetier\n\n\n\nThen everything printed in a line along the left most edge. That is the head was moved to the very right , never moved again then the platform just moved \n\nCan someone explain what settings I should be using for Repetier for a platform setup as I have. \n\nIf I've misunderstood the Slic3r/Repetier interface then you can point that out as well. \n\",mac,\"I'm not sure exactly sure if you have one problem or two distinctive ones. However a few notes:\n\nThe latest version of Slic3r PE can always be fetched on their GitHub release page. At the time of writing that would be version 1.38.5, but I concur with you that that is unlikely to be the problem.\n\nMirrored objects are a clear indication that one of the Cartesian axis is swapped (not that it is translated). Any of the axis can be swapped, but since the peculiarity of your printer is that the homing point is at the front RIGHT, I would guess the axis that got messed up is the X one.\n\nI have no way to test the following, but if I got the meaning of your first two pictures, then I guess the correct settings in Repetier may probably be these:\n\n\n\nIf even that fail, check the handedness of the coordinate system of the software generating the model you are trying to slice. Modelling software like Blender and others are typically right-handed, but many tools for processing those model for on-screen application (movies, videogames) are left-handed. That means that even if the model display correctly in the native editor, it may be rendered mirrored in another software.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4460,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sean Duggan,4.030301511886631,4.255872390836963,0.0,5.646830619998737,3.929104701733314,3.585260288142579,Is it possible to print a resonator for a musical instrument?,\"I play a berimbau for Capoeira. One of the most fragile (and most expensive) bits is the cabaça, a hollow gourd used as a resonator.\n\n\n\nI'm not very familiar with the qualities of the resin used for 3d printing. If I were to take this to our local Maker Lab and have them scan and print a copy, how likely is it that it would work? My fear is that the plastic would be too sound deadening.\n\nIf you want a less exotic parallel, imagine the body of a guitar. That's a resonating chamber.\n\",markshancock,\"Here is a great answer to the underlying physics of resonance:\n\n\n\n\"\"A object rings because it has acquired energy in a way that it resonates - it vibrates at a frequency and with enough energy to generate sound waves. As long as the object has sufficient energy, it will continue to ring. It cannot ring forever as the sound waves gradually reduce the amount of energy that the object has. But generating sound waves not the only way that an object can lose energy, One of the ways that plastics differ from metals is that plastics are better able than metals to dissipate energy internally. Any plastic object will show some amount of viscosity dampening since all polymeric materials have a non-zero loss modulus curve. Metals can also have internal dissipation mechanisms, but they are far less prevalent than in plastics.\"\" \n\nSo, we all know it, you can make plastic musical toys. They never resonate as well as metal, glass, or wood; but, they often can work. Here is an example of a Trumpet made out of ABS!\n\n\nThis plastic's magazine also makes it's pitch for using plastics in musical instruments (most of which is also ABS).\n\nThat said, if Young's Modulus is the key (as the first comment said), PLA should be even better as its' Young's Modulus is a bit larger than ABS.\n\nAll that said, all the plastic bells I have seen are generally pretty quiet. Plastic has a habit of absorbing energy and thus not being a very good resonator. If you want to try, I think you are going to have to find a way to harden the plastic. Maybe Acetone treated PLA as that seems to harden it. Maybe try something simple like printing a plastic bell. If you can get that to ring, you are well on your well.\n\n\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n4460,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sean Duggan,4.030301511886631,4.255872390836963,0.0,5.646830619998737,3.929104701733314,3.585260288142579,Is it possible to print a resonator for a musical instrument?,\"I play a berimbau for Capoeira. One of the most fragile (and most expensive) bits is the cabaça, a hollow gourd used as a resonator.\n\n\n\nI'm not very familiar with the qualities of the resin used for 3d printing. If I were to take this to our local Maker Lab and have them scan and print a copy, how likely is it that it would work? My fear is that the plastic would be too sound deadening.\n\nIf you want a less exotic parallel, imagine the body of a guitar. That's a resonating chamber.\n\",Laurence Payne,\"I can't answer this from a technical 3D printing angle. But, from a musical angle:\n\nWhere the body of an instrument has the primary function of enclosing a vibrating air column, the material has often been demonstrated to perhaps make a difference, but only a subtle one. As an example, a recent range of plastic trombones, although not first-class instruments, have proved extremely playable (and have the great advantage of being virtually indestructable). \n\nI suggest you try this. Play your instrument, dampening vibration of the cabaça with your hand or with a piece of cloth. Just damp the shell externally. Don't obstruct the hole or put anything inside. Now, fill the cabaça with cotton wool or similar. If the first makes little difference, you're probably good to go with a plastic cabaça. Of course, if the second makes little difference either, we might have to suspect that the cabaça is mainly decorative!\n\nYou could also experiment with alternative resonators of a similar size and capacity, available 'off the shelf', not worrying too much about a cosmetic match. They might sound even better!\n\",3.367452517504837,2.0769199823829045\n4471,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Rott,1.726248027126092,4.23370436749047,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.878685800062712,Converting a mesh to constructive solid geometry,\"I have a mesh of a bowl that has the perfect shape of half a sphere. I want to easily convert it to the containing sphere solid and a box solid that will be subtracted from it.\n\n\n\nGoogling mesh to solid shows that in various tools such as 3ds Max, Fusion, etc., manual approximation of where the sphere might go is created manually by visually comparing to the mesh or the cross section when creating the solid but I am looking for the minimum enclosing sphere and box to be generated/calculated by the software.\n\nSource file format is of course not an issue, it can be any known mesh file.\n\",mbmcavoy,\"The answers by @markshancock and @fred-dot-u describe the process of creating a CAD primitive sphere and subtracting a cube; this is a trivial task in most any 3D CAD program. You could manually measure the mesh to determine its dimensions, and frankly, I would recommend this approach. (If you have a large task like converting 100,000 half-sphere meshes, I'd re-think the approach and go to the source that generated the meshes in the first place!)\n\nHowever, these don't address converting the mesh to a primitive, which is normally not possible for arbitrary meshes (therefore a CAD program will not have such a function), and much more difficult than simply measuring and re-creating.\n\nYou assert that your mesh file \"\"has the perfect shape of half a sphere\"\". A mesh is basically on a collection of vertices, joined by edges and faces. The vertices are defined by numeric coordinates, and in a computer will always have some rounding errors, and the linear edges and planar faces are most definitely not round. Therefore, it may be incredibly close, but it will most definitely not be perfect.\n\nIn this very particular case, the diameter of the sphere is the same as the diameter of the circular face of your half-sphere. You could plausibly write a simple program that would locate the maximum distance between any two vertices in your mesh and use that for the diameter. The midpoint of the line between those two points would be the center of the sphere. This should produce a good result but may not be \"\"exact\"\" depending on the details of the mesh.\n\nI won't try to explain how to create the actual program as that is not in the scope of 3D printing.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4471,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Rott,1.726248027126092,4.23370436749047,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.878685800062712,Converting a mesh to constructive solid geometry,\"I have a mesh of a bowl that has the perfect shape of half a sphere. I want to easily convert it to the containing sphere solid and a box solid that will be subtracted from it.\n\n\n\nGoogling mesh to solid shows that in various tools such as 3ds Max, Fusion, etc., manual approximation of where the sphere might go is created manually by visually comparing to the mesh or the cross section when creating the solid but I am looking for the minimum enclosing sphere and box to be generated/calculated by the software.\n\nSource file format is of course not an issue, it can be any known mesh file.\n\",markshancock,\"So it depends a lot on what you want to do.\n\n\nIf you want to mathematically calculate what cube fits in what size sphere, that is straight forward. The diagonal for the cube has to fit into the diameter of the shere. For a cube with edge 'l' and a shpere with diamamer 'd' then <= d.\nIf you want to model a cube and a sphere in CAD (or one inside the other) you just do it. They are both primitives. Takes less than a minute.\n\n\n\n\n\nYou can use a mesh in a design too. I would assume if you are wanting to use a mesh, the mesh must contain something other than just a smooth bowl or what the point of the mesh? Fusion 360 allows you to import a mesh and play with it just like that and combine it with model objects (just like the box). \nYou can actually convert a mesh into a solid model if you want to too. Fusion 360 CAD has ways to help you convert that mesh to a sculpt. First create a sculpt object that represents the shape of the mesh object (like a sphere or a quadraball). Next import the mesh then collapse the model over the mesh (using it like a model to form a mold). You can then delett the mesh and use the molded sculpt.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4509,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Rott,0.0,2.8020788675182238,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Is B-REP a ready to print mesh,\"before a mesh can be printed it needs to be 'repaired'. According to most tutorials that is including making the shape close and removing inner shapes. Reading through B-REP in Wikipedia there is no layman term or explanation how it differs form the traditional polygonal mesh create for example from scanning or exporting from CAD. Is B-REP a mesh that only represents a boundary and therefore ready to be printed?\n\",pasaba por aqui,\"a) about \n\n\n Is B-REP a mesh that only represents a boundary [..] ?\n\n\nB-Rep contains more information, see here:\n\n\n There are two types of information in a B-rep: topological and\n geometric. Topological information provide the relationships among\n vertices, edges and faces similar to that used in a wireframe model.\n In addition to connectivity, topological information also include\n orientation of edges and faces. Geometric information are usually\n equations of the edges and faces.\n\n\nb) about \n\n\n and therefore ready to be printed\n\n\nit is need not only check that the model is correct (no lack of a face, no wrong face normals, ...) but also that is valid for a 3d printer (no \"\"floating\"\" parts, addition of supports, ...).\n\nFinally, recall the model is not what drives the printer, the printer is controlled by the machine instructions, usually gcode. Thus, the usual evolution is: parts description (.scad, ...), model format (.stl, ...) and machine instructions (.gcode).\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4556,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Rott,1.0891412423578797,3.8850447547108047,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Layman term explanation of the difference between voxel and point cloud,\"can anyone explain in the simplest terms please what is the difference between a point cloud and a voxel mesh?\n\",cmm,\"A point cloud is often derived by sampling. Each point represents an observation. Sometimes, a point cloud is turned into a surface by fitting triangles to the points in the form of an STL file.\n\nA raster is a 2D grid of pixels. It divides the area of an image into constant-sized little squares. Each of these squares has a value.\n\nA 3D raster is made of voxels. It divides 3-space into constant-sized little cubes. Each of these cubes has a value.\n\nPixels and voxels are rendering techniques. A point cloud is a sampling technique.\n\nThe Wikipedia article, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voxel, is helpful.\n\nIn a real system the pixels may not be square or the voxels not strictly cubic, but in every system I've worked with, they do form a regular tiling of the plane for pixels, and fill 3d space for voxels.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4556,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Rott,1.0891412423578797,3.8850447547108047,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Layman term explanation of the difference between voxel and point cloud,\"can anyone explain in the simplest terms please what is the difference between a point cloud and a voxel mesh?\n\",ctag,\"I believe a point cloud is just a collection of points, while voxels - \"\"3D pixels\"\" - define location and a cube area. They seem to be pretty equivalent mathematically.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4487,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,pasaba por aqui,2.1782824847157594,3.9991925626994775,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,PLA continuous operative temperature,\"For personal usage, indoor, I'm doing some experiments with following lamp (v0.1):\n\n\n\nLamp is a led bulb enclosed in a methacrylate tube and with a 3D printed finish at the top using PLA (my first 3d print ;-).\n\nIn some www pages (by example, here) I've read that the led buld radiator can reach 90º C. Experimentally, the methacrylate and the PLA feels only slightly hot, I suppose around 40ºC.\n\nAccording to www info, PLA has a melting point of 150ºC, far from this usage, but a continuous operative temperature of only 40ºC ( !? this made 3d printing unable in a country as my own one, where ambient in summer is around 40ºC).\n\nSo, my question, is PLA a valid material for this application? If not, some other one better?\n\nThanks a lot. \n\",EvilTeach,\"I had a PLA print that would weaken and deform when sitting in the car on a hot day. I think you should try it with ABS.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4487,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,pasaba por aqui,2.1782824847157594,3.9991925626994775,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,PLA continuous operative temperature,\"For personal usage, indoor, I'm doing some experiments with following lamp (v0.1):\n\n\n\nLamp is a led bulb enclosed in a methacrylate tube and with a 3D printed finish at the top using PLA (my first 3d print ;-).\n\nIn some www pages (by example, here) I've read that the led buld radiator can reach 90º C. Experimentally, the methacrylate and the PLA feels only slightly hot, I suppose around 40ºC.\n\nAccording to www info, PLA has a melting point of 150ºC, far from this usage, but a continuous operative temperature of only 40ºC ( !? this made 3d printing unable in a country as my own one, where ambient in summer is around 40ºC).\n\nSo, my question, is PLA a valid material for this application? If not, some other one better?\n\nThanks a lot. \n\",eyashin,\"EvilTeach's answer is correct, ABS is a more reliable plastic for any kind of work which may get above what feels \"\"hot to the touch.\"\" \n\nJust to elaborate on the why: the property you're looking for in the thermoplastic (which will determine the continuous operating temperature) is glass transition temperature. This is the point at which the plastic begins to flow, and becomes deformable as EvilTeach described. PLA reaches this state at around 60 °C, whereas ABS is around 105 °C, just suiting your specifications. To go a bit further, polycarbonate offers a glass transition temperature of around 150 °C, and Ultem at 217 °C. So there's a thermoplastic for everyone, you just need to know what you're looking for!\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n4489,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Brad Parks,3.267423727073639,6.087597075965862,2.7799718631987322,2.011441651225199,3.749318730431847,4.208576161768494,Monoprice MP Mini Delta - How to get started?,\"I just got a Monoprice MP Mini Delta from an Indiegogo Campaign, but it came with no printed docs. \n\nHow do I get started?\n\",Brad Parks,\"Updated Manual\n\n\nTurns out an out of date manual was on the sd card that was included with the printer. But it was definitely out of date, as it referenced UI items that don't exist, and files that weren't on the SD card.\nAn updated manual can be found here\nor possibly out of date here\n\n\nResources and sample files\n\n\nA very helpful Facebook group has a bunch of files that are good sample prints. If your manual says you can print a cat.gcode you've got an old manual. \nNote: Don't try and just google cat.gcode as I did. The model I found rammed the print head right into the bottom of the printer. The correct model works great (actually called auto00.g on the SD card) \nAnother great reference site appears to be https://www.mpminidelta.com/, and this reddit\n\n\nCommon Problems and Solutions\n\nThe following are some problems I had and their solution\n\nCan't print custom models\n\nIf you find you can print prebuilt gcodes fine (cat,viking,toothless), but can't seem to print any other models without the print head ramming into the bottom of the printer and going off to the side, you probably haven't setup the autoleveling gcode that's required. You can add something like the following line to your software, in a \"\"startup\"\" gcode section. This is detailed in the manual (just search for G29), and more info can be found here\n\n; auto-levels the build plate with a overall vertical \n; offset of 0.3mm with a center offset of -0.8mm\nG29 C-0.8 Z0.3 \n\n\nFirst layer doesnt stick\n\nIf you find your first layer isn't sticking, or it seems like the plastic is balling up, you need to adjust your startup gcode line mentioned above , so it has a lower Z offset, like Z0.25 for example\n\nG29 Z[offset] ; raises\nG29 Z-[offset] ; lowers\n\n\nNotes\n\n\nPlease try a positive offset value first.\nEach printer will require fine tuning in regards to the offset value.\nStart with a higher value and decrease as necessary to get good first layer adhesion.\nUsing a negative offset value may send the nozzle digging into the build plate.\n\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n4493,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,com.prehensible,-2.1782824847157594,3.5188408246094167,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,Why are Carbon 3D are not selling a home version?,\"Carbon 3d made a 100x faster printer which has a simple and cheap mechanism using a Teflon layer. It appears to have a 20mn in RnD Costs and $7000 mass market production cost.\n\nThe only access method for one is a USD$ 161,250 yearly subscription.\n\nTheir printer is not available in shapeways... Is there something wrong with Carbon 3D so that it does not view consumers as a direct market, and has no market news on it's website?\n\nHow can they spend 222 million in investment money and not have a 3d printer in shapeways or public access? \n\",cmm,\"I will take the question seriously, and consider reasons why Carbon 3D might choose to offer their technology through a yearly subscription, rather than building a product accessible to the consumer market. These reasons are speculation and do not reflect any specific knowledge about Carbon 3D, the details of their technology, or anything unique about their corporate mission.\n\n1) The mission of a company, especially in the beginning while competition makes it possible, to make as much money as possible. If the technology is unique and brings good value to a large enough set of interested customers, it can easily consume the full attention of a company to service those customers. The price those companies pay for access may be higher than others would pay because their derived value is higher.\n\n2) If a technology is new, and perhaps still somewhat immature, there may be very high support efforts and cost required. Through this time, the learning curve does it's job, the technology improves and matures, and the costs go down.\n\n3) If the technology is immature, and perhaps is evolving quickly, it could be to the advantage of a supplier to only offer the technology on a service rather than capital acquisition basis. It simplifies replacing components. \n\n4) If the technology is immature, selling the service may be easier than selling the hardware. It simplifies the acquisition process, and makes it easier for customer's to expand their usage since the supplier's capital is used to finance the machines instead of the customer's.\n\n5) Even with a mature, proven technology, it can be advantageous to maintain a higher price point. The game is optimizing the profit on volume times price. The point they operate at is influenced by their perception of the market.\n\n6) In the early adopter phase, it is critical that the customer experience be stellar. They may be limited in how rapidly they can scale in some critical dimension -- consumables supply chain, manufacturing capacity, trained installation technicians, local service offices, or many other limits. Anything going wrong makes for a bad customer experience.\n\nIt doesn't surprise me that they aren't going after the consumer market at this time.\n\nBut, I'm not in the CEO's office, and I don't see where his pain comes from. My purpose here is only to propose some plausible reasons why the company has not launched a consumer facing product.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n4493,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,com.prehensible,-2.1782824847157594,3.5188408246094167,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,Why are Carbon 3D are not selling a home version?,\"Carbon 3d made a 100x faster printer which has a simple and cheap mechanism using a Teflon layer. It appears to have a 20mn in RnD Costs and $7000 mass market production cost.\n\nThe only access method for one is a USD$ 161,250 yearly subscription.\n\nTheir printer is not available in shapeways... Is there something wrong with Carbon 3D so that it does not view consumers as a direct market, and has no market news on it's website?\n\nHow can they spend 222 million in investment money and not have a 3d printer in shapeways or public access? \n\",fectin - free Monica,\"It looks like they have only one innovation: their resins. Everything else looks like standard SLA. \n\nAll the things Carbon 3D are pitching on their website are more about having a dedicated support team than some fancy printer, and that's what they're selling. \n\nAs to why they don't make a home version: why would they? It's at best a distraction from their core business.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4496,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user21816,2.1782824847157594,4.8237597754262715,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,\"How to prevent layer separation, when printing tall vase-like (tube) objects?\",\"I am experiencing a minor layer separation when printing a body for a tipping-bucket rain gauge, which is basically a hollow tube with thin walls (3 mm). I am using Prusa I3 MK2 and a Fillamentum ABS white plastic. The model has been sliced in Siplify 3D with the following settings:\n\n\nlayer height: 0.2 mm\nperimeter shells: 3 layers (almost entirely\nfills up the wall)\nextruder temperature: 230 °C\nprinting speed: default - 50 mm/s, outline - 35 mm/s, infill - 35 mm/s\n\n\nIs it possible to prevent the irregular and layer separation by adjusting some of the settings, and not significantly increasing the printing time, which is already 13 hours?\n\nPICTURES:\n\n\n\n\n\",Davo,\"The best thing you can do for a large ABS print is to have an enclosure heated to 50C or better. For example, see this, this, this, and other search results.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n4496,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user21816,2.1782824847157594,4.8237597754262715,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,\"How to prevent layer separation, when printing tall vase-like (tube) objects?\",\"I am experiencing a minor layer separation when printing a body for a tipping-bucket rain gauge, which is basically a hollow tube with thin walls (3 mm). I am using Prusa I3 MK2 and a Fillamentum ABS white plastic. The model has been sliced in Siplify 3D with the following settings:\n\n\nlayer height: 0.2 mm\nperimeter shells: 3 layers (almost entirely\nfills up the wall)\nextruder temperature: 230 °C\nprinting speed: default - 50 mm/s, outline - 35 mm/s, infill - 35 mm/s\n\n\nIs it possible to prevent the irregular and layer separation by adjusting some of the settings, and not significantly increasing the printing time, which is already 13 hours?\n\nPICTURES:\n\n\n\n\n\",Travers,\"increasing the temperature by 5 to 10° as well as, increasing the layer thickness to \"\"0.3\"\" or \"\"0.35\"\" may assist ,additionally increasing the flow rate of the filament, by a small margin at most 10%. These options should improve the quality of the print as they improve the layer adhesion, however none of these options will completely solve the problem.\n\nalternatively you can repair the current print. In order to do this you will need to use something cot such as a soldering iron with a variable temperature, to melt and rejoined the layers. similarly you can use a 3d pen to apply additional plastic across the sections of separation in order to repair it.\n\",0.0,0.0\n4499,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris,2.1782824847157594,3.4818384141272243,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How do I convert point cloud data to DICOM?,\"How can I convert 3D point cloud data to DICOM format (specifying slice width) or an equally scrollable sharp 2D image format? Which software (preferably opensource or free) can I use to do this?\n\nI've searched on Google and can't find anything.\n\nChris\n\",Samveen,\"This answer is actually based on combining answers from 2 other questions (this and that).\n\nThe process isn't a single step and would be to as follows:\n\n\nThe point cloud data needs to be converted to a 3d mesh.\nConvert the mesh to STL.\nSlice the STL into SVG.\n\n\nFor step one, the type of point cloud data would decide the software to use (for example, if it is GIS point cloud data, or 3D scanner point cloud data). A good end result of step 1 would be a VRML file. As you've not specified the type of point cloud data, I cannot suggest a software for it.\n\nStep 2 would be to convert the mesh to STL which is easily doable using Meshlab.\n\nFor step 3, Slic3r itself will work just fine to generate the SVG output you're looking for.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4505,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,addyc1986,0.0,4.045218499508677,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Which 3D printer is good for beginners?,\"I was looking for some advice on which 3D printers are good for someone who is just getting into 3D printing?\n\nI have been looking at the Anet A8 on ebay but not sure if they are any good or not.\n\nRegards\n\",Ecnerwal,\"Which printer for a beginner depends far more on the beginner in question than the various printers available. \n\n\nIf you are comfortable assembling parts and figuring things out a number of options exist. \nIf you need a fully-built object, a number of options exist.\nIf you require lots of dedicated support, via phone or email, there\nare options.\nIf you can ask questions in a forum and get the answers you need (or\nfigure things out when you don't and post your answers for others to\nfind) there are options.\n\n\nIf you have special/esoteric printing needs, that puts constraints on - if you kinda vaguely want a 3-D plastic printer, but don't really know what you want to use it for the field is wide open.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4505,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,addyc1986,0.0,4.045218499508677,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Which 3D printer is good for beginners?,\"I was looking for some advice on which 3D printers are good for someone who is just getting into 3D printing?\n\nI have been looking at the Anet A8 on ebay but not sure if they are any good or not.\n\nRegards\n\",Warren Masters,\"A budget would make answering your question alot easier. Do you have any experience with cad/cam software? What are you wanting to do with it? There are many inexpensive 3d printers but your skill level in mechanics/machinery, electronics, programming etc will also help others choose a good option for you. For example, plug and play units are usually more expensive than build your own models. But if you don't have the skill to assemble it the savings wasn't worth it\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4508,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Stephen Archer,2.8153892694839717,3.977016375913304,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Help preventing warping while 3d printing with polypropylene,\"I am wondering if anyone can help me achieve a good 3d print using polypropylene. I am trying to print custom insoles for shoes and I'm getting some bad warping/lifting (see image).\n\n\n\nSome details about the print and process:\n\n\nI have a Prusa i3 Mk2S with a Flexion extruder\nI am using what I believe is a good quality filament (Verbatim PP): https://www.verbatim.com.au/3d-printing/pp-filament/3d-pp-filament.html\nI am coating my hotbead with clear packaging adhesive (OPP tape) as per the manufacturers instructions. This appears to help quite a bit.\nBed heated to 75 degrees. I tried 100 but got hit with the \"\"Heatbed Thermal Runaway\"\" error which I believe indicates that not enough voltage is getting to the bed heater.\nI've tried printing at 220 degrees and 170 degrees.\nI've tried enclosing the printer in a makeshift enclosure to reduce the speed that the material is cooling at.\nOther settings: speed 40mm/s constant, 0.2mm layer height, 20% infill, 3 top bottom and side layers. \n\n\nThe print takes about 5 hours and seems to stay down for an hour or two before starting to warp.\n\nDoes anyone have any suggestions of things I should try?\n\",Davo,\"Try heating your enclosure to 50C, as well as adding a brim.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4508,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Stephen Archer,2.8153892694839717,3.977016375913304,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Help preventing warping while 3d printing with polypropylene,\"I am wondering if anyone can help me achieve a good 3d print using polypropylene. I am trying to print custom insoles for shoes and I'm getting some bad warping/lifting (see image).\n\n\n\nSome details about the print and process:\n\n\nI have a Prusa i3 Mk2S with a Flexion extruder\nI am using what I believe is a good quality filament (Verbatim PP): https://www.verbatim.com.au/3d-printing/pp-filament/3d-pp-filament.html\nI am coating my hotbead with clear packaging adhesive (OPP tape) as per the manufacturers instructions. This appears to help quite a bit.\nBed heated to 75 degrees. I tried 100 but got hit with the \"\"Heatbed Thermal Runaway\"\" error which I believe indicates that not enough voltage is getting to the bed heater.\nI've tried printing at 220 degrees and 170 degrees.\nI've tried enclosing the printer in a makeshift enclosure to reduce the speed that the material is cooling at.\nOther settings: speed 40mm/s constant, 0.2mm layer height, 20% infill, 3 top bottom and side layers. \n\n\nThe print takes about 5 hours and seems to stay down for an hour or two before starting to warp.\n\nDoes anyone have any suggestions of things I should try?\n\",Stephen Archer,\"One thing that seemed to help is making sure the heated bed was 100C. I was able to do this on my Prusa by turning off the front fan (for the whole print). If I have both the fan on and the heated bed at 100C I get the \"\"Heatbed Thermal Runaway\"\" error.\n\nThis produced a print that was better but still a bit warped.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4517,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Martin_SV,2.1782824847157594,4.063518463711386,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Graphite self-lubricating bushings performance?,\"I'm about to start building a CoreXY style printer and can't decide which bearings/bushings to buy. My first printer was a Delta with belts and opendbuilds wheels, so I'm lost regarding this matter.\n\nAnyone tried these self-lubricating graphite bushings? \nHow do they perform compared to the standard LMUU bearings?\n\nRobotdigg link\n\nAliexpress link\n\n\nDo they run smoother, more silent?\nDo they have play?\nDo they stall after a while? Need maintenance?\nAny feedback is much appreciated.\n\n\",cmm,\"Bushings will be quieter than linear ball bearings. Some online discussions complain of the linear bearings becoming noisy, and (in what I think is a failure of the balls to circulate properly) for the balls to develop flat spots. If the balls aren't moving properly, you will end up with a bushing. You might start with a bushing in the first place.\n\nBushings spread the load over the surface of the rods, so there should be minimal wear. Bearings and bushings are limited by the load and the speed. In 3D printers, neither the speeds or the loads are particularly high. Bushings should work well.\n\nBushings may have slightly higher sliding friction, which could result in slower maximum printing speed for motors with the same torque. The characteristics should be more stable as they age.\n\nOthers may have different experience, but I would consider either the self-lubricated brass bushings, or perhaps the self-lubricated graphite bushings.\n\nAs an example, inkjet and laser printers do not use ball bearings for the carrier. 15 years ago, it was bronze bushing on stainless steel shafts. Over time, it has evolved to PTFE pads sliding on stamped sheet metal.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4521,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jan,2.1782824847157594,4.0883431810905995,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,single point z-correction after 3-point auto-leveling,\"On my Monoprice Delta Mini, autoleveling is performed based on three push buttons, on which the printer platform rests: The nozzle moves downwards until one of the buttons detects being pushed down. Using the G29-gcode, this is performed automatically at three points close to the locations of these sensor buttons.\n\nHowever, even after this calibration, the printer expects the platform at one of the test points to be lower than it actually is. Thus, when printing close to the front right sensor button, the printer \"\"smears\"\" the plastic onto the platform. At the other locations, the printing works fine. Therefore, I cannot simply adjust the overall z-distance. (Multi-point auto leveling gives even worse results since the platform tilts during the probing.)\n\nIs there a gcode-based option to modify the z-height of just one of the calibration points of the autoleveling?\n\nEdit: The bad leveling seems to be a common problem of this printer: \n\nhttps://www.reddit.com/r/mpminidelta/comments/73xcxg/leveling_doesnt_seem_right/\n\nhttps://www.reddit.com/r/mpminidelta/comments/6tqe7f/follow_up_on_bed_leveling_issue/\n\nTill now, nobody seems to have a solution. \n\",cmm,\"There is no \"\"standard\"\" g-code, especially for the auxiliary functions of calibration, and even more so for the calibration of delta-class printers. I find that the Reprap Wiki includes a fairly comprehensive list: http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Firmware_G-Codes and http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code. These lists address the RepRap firmware, although they include some g-code functions which are specific to other types of applications.\n\nIf the Monoprice Delta firmware is based on the RepRap firmware, the lists might be helpful, although detailed documention from Monoprice would be the best reference.\n\nAssuming there is no available or known g-code to adjust this, you work from the hypothesis that your three switches are not responding identically. If possible, use a micrometer to measure the difference between the \"\"idle\"\" position of the bed and the point where the switch actuates. It could be that the front switch requires more travel before actuation, which would then cause the leveling calculation to have a lower point for the front switch. In the alternative to measuring, it may be possible to exchange the front switch with a rear/side switch and see if the problem moves.\n\nDelta machines are more difficult to calibrate because everything interacts. The three actuator delta machine is a simplification of a more complex 6-axis Stewart platform. As I see it, a delta machine is a 6-actuator machine in which pairs of actuators operate \"\"identically\"\", except that minor variations cause unexpected positioning errors. Sometimes these are modeled as a bowl shape with positive or negative curvature, although measurements I've made on my home-brew delta show an error that looks more like a carpet in a high wind. Some factors improve the design, such as longer actuator arm pairs and smaller build diameter, which may help you with the Monoprice.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4527,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nicky Rossouw,3.452496054252184,5.181043933152296,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,2.746326330407206,1.5102156081937064,Heated Bed vs Heated enclosure for large scale printer,\"I'm /relatively/ new to 3d printing (I'm getting pretty good prints from my Wanhao di3 plus, but haven't done any DIY kits or anything) and materials engineering is probably the furthest thing from my area of expertise so I thought I would pose this to more experienced makers:\n\nIf I'm building a large scale printer (probably a similar size to substation33 - sub33D's 1200x1200 printer) that I'm only going to print in PLA and MAYBE ABS occasionally, can I substitute the heated bed for simply heating the entire enclosure?\nThe idea would be to have a thermistor measuring the ambient air temp inside the enclosure with a heat gun or two to hear the entire enclosure as necessary. I want to do this to try and reduce the cost (significantly as far as I can tell) as it seems 400*400 silicone heat pads tend to go for about 80 bucks a pop.\nAn alternate idea I had was to use two or three heat pads and space them evenly under a glass bed, although I feel that this won't work as well because the heating won't be homogenous...\n\nAny input is appreciated :)\n\",Ecnerwal,\"With a well-insulated and well distributed (or perhaps well-mixed is a better term - even heating) enclosure you should have a veritable heated bed by dint of heating the enclosure (with the bed in it), unless the bed needs to be hotter than the enclosure. I think that would be bit more elaborate than \"\"a couple of heat guns\"\" and involve several fans to distribute and mix air continuously.\n\nBut - heated enclosures are not a freebie - everything inside the heated enclosure needs to be happy running at the sort of temperatures the enclosure is running at, and that can be hard on some electronic parts, shortening their lifetimes at least. Likewise, your calibration needs to be done on the hot enclosure - mechanical parts (particularly on a large scale printer) will change size due to the temperature.\n\nInsulation will both reduce your running cost (the more heat you keep, the less you have to add) and help keep the temperatures even, by slowing the cooling at the edges of the enclosure.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4527,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nicky Rossouw,3.452496054252184,5.181043933152296,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,2.746326330407206,1.5102156081937064,Heated Bed vs Heated enclosure for large scale printer,\"I'm /relatively/ new to 3d printing (I'm getting pretty good prints from my Wanhao di3 plus, but haven't done any DIY kits or anything) and materials engineering is probably the furthest thing from my area of expertise so I thought I would pose this to more experienced makers:\n\nIf I'm building a large scale printer (probably a similar size to substation33 - sub33D's 1200x1200 printer) that I'm only going to print in PLA and MAYBE ABS occasionally, can I substitute the heated bed for simply heating the entire enclosure?\nThe idea would be to have a thermistor measuring the ambient air temp inside the enclosure with a heat gun or two to hear the entire enclosure as necessary. I want to do this to try and reduce the cost (significantly as far as I can tell) as it seems 400*400 silicone heat pads tend to go for about 80 bucks a pop.\nAn alternate idea I had was to use two or three heat pads and space them evenly under a glass bed, although I feel that this won't work as well because the heating won't be homogenous...\n\nAny input is appreciated :)\n\",Luis Diaz,\"The point of using a heated bed it's to keep the part within a certain range of temperature while printing.\n\nSo, it's all about thermodynamic. It will be easier to keep the part at the desired temperature if the contact surface with the hot environment is larger, so, it might reduce warping and other related problems.\n\nAnyway, it might be enough to have just the heated bed in contact with the part and not the whole environment to reduce the problems of abs printing. \n\nYou can check Tom3D's post, 3D printing with ABS: Hotter nozzle or hotter ambient? #Filaween, and video, YouTube - 3D printing with ABS: Hotter nozzle or hotter ambient? #Filaween, it might help you choose what to do.\n\",0.0,0.0\n4533,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pat,-2.1782824847157594,3.538564895347879,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Printer/Material/Setup recommendation for printing mechanical parts,\"I'm interested in printing small machine parts (gears, linkages, structural components) so I'm looking for accuracy and mechanical strength over speed and volume.\n\nI'm also somewhat concerned about harmful emissions so would like a solution with some sort of filtration, whether it's built into the machine or something added. I'm thinking I will run the machine in an unventilated garage, which is quite warm and humid during the summer in Texas.\n\nMy price range is \\$1500-\\$2000 USD. I've looked at several options but I didn't really come across any scenarios like I've described and would like some advice from the experts before committing.\n\nAnyone in a similar boat have any suggestions?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Your environmental conditions will preclude finding a machine suitable for your purposes in the budget specified.\n\nHumidity is a problem with many material types, especially nylon, but also with PLA and ABS, the more common filaments used in 3D printing.\n\nYou can likely reject PLA for your mechanical needs, as it is brittle and weak compared to ABS. PLA releases virtually no gases of concern, while some find ABS fumes to be offensive and dangerous. \n\nThe humidity issue is forefront in your search. You may have to construct within the garage a chamber in which you would operate a portable or window air conditioner unit, to keep the humidity in check. If you can assign a different budget to such a construction, that will leave your printer funding intact and better able to address your goal.\n\nSelective Laser Sintering using nylon powder, also susceptible to humidity, which is sintered by a laser, hence the name, making very detailed and strong parts. The process is also self-supporting, allowing for fairly intricate parts. Once the machine is calibrated, the part accuracy can be quite good. Unfortunately, SLS machines are also out of the budget range you've noted.\n\nYou can use an external service to print the parts you design, at least at first, to get a better indication of how the various materials will work for you. Start with PLA, then move to ABS for a set of test parts, and even perhaps have some printed using SLS.\n\nIf you find, for example, that ABS will be strong enough, you might find an affordable 3D printer which will generate parts on your budget and timeline. For printing ABS, the warmer temperatures are to your advantage, but the humidity has to be properly addressed in any home/shop/garage installation.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4533,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pat,-2.1782824847157594,3.538564895347879,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Printer/Material/Setup recommendation for printing mechanical parts,\"I'm interested in printing small machine parts (gears, linkages, structural components) so I'm looking for accuracy and mechanical strength over speed and volume.\n\nI'm also somewhat concerned about harmful emissions so would like a solution with some sort of filtration, whether it's built into the machine or something added. I'm thinking I will run the machine in an unventilated garage, which is quite warm and humid during the summer in Texas.\n\nMy price range is \\$1500-\\$2000 USD. I've looked at several options but I didn't really come across any scenarios like I've described and would like some advice from the experts before committing.\n\nAnyone in a similar boat have any suggestions?\n\",cmm,\"There is more than one question here. Which touches three topics: the choice of appropriate 3D printing technique, the choice of materials, and control of any hazardous, noxious, or annoying out-gassing. \n\nIt is important to understand the limits of the 3D printing process you will choose. Each process has its own limits on repeatability and resolution of small features, such as gear teeth. A 10 pitch (teeth-per-inch) gear could print acceptably well with a low-cost printer, but the size of a 10-tooth gear would be 1/2\"\" diameter. This could be a small part, or a huge part, depending on the use. To print an 1/8\"\" diameter 10-tooth gear would require a 100 pitch gear likely would not, and would call for an optical process (laser sintering (SLS) or photo-polymerization (like the FormLabs Form 2)) or a dot-jetting process (such as the StrataSys Objet Connex machines). These are not in the budget you've suggested, but are available through service bureaus.\n\nAnswers here another community question give some hints for using a plastic-extrusion machine, and information about SLS.\n\nEach process has different environmental requirements, and impacts, but first should be to understand the requirements of the parts, based on those choose a process and material, and then mitigate the environmental factors.\n\",0.0,0.0\n4536,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Disousa,2.1782824847157594,4.043361299226703,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,\"Auto Bed Levelling - Printer not detecting, but sensor is triggering\",\"Today I installed an inductive sensor (4 mm sensing distance, NPN) on my printer to perform auto-bed leveling. The sensor works at 12 V and the board at 5 V, so I used a voltage divider (as suggested in many places online) using a 10kOhm and a 15kOhm resistor.\n\nIn testing the sensor, I noticed that the sensor's LED turns on, but the printer (Anet A8) doesn't recognize the fact that the sensor is triggering. I'm running the Skynet3D firmware, though I still have not switched to the version with auto bed-leveling. Regardless, the inductive sensor should still act as a limit switch, yet the Z-Axis motor does not stop when the sensor triggers. Am I doing something wrong, or missing a step?\n\nI have also measured the voltage across the leads that connect to the board and the voltage is slightly over 5 V when the sensor is not triggered, and lowers to around 2.5 V when the sensor triggers. I get the feeling it should be closer to 0 V.\n\nThank you very much for any help.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Perhaps the culprit is a pull-up resistor on the board. Normally, endstops on 3D printers use the microcontroller's internal pullups. These have a resistance of around 50kΩ, which is far too high to be a problem. However, if lower value pull up resistors are used on your main board, this could cause a problem.\n\nThe resistor of your voltage divider form, when the output of the sensor is low, a parallel pair of resistors to ground, with an effective resistance equal to 1/(1/10+1/15) = 6kΩ. If there was (let's say) a 4.7k pull-up resistor on the board, you'd expect to see around 2.8V on the output (because the pull-up resistor, together with the two resistors of your voltage divider, forms another voltage divider).\n\nI don't have the Anet A8 main board myself, but on pictures I do see a set of 6 resistors suspiciously close to the thermistor and endstop connectors.\n\nYou could verify my suspicions by unplugging the endstop, powering down the electronics and then measuring the resistance between the endstop signal and 5V pins.\n\nPossible solutions:\n\n\nDesolder the offending resistor. This is pretty easy with SMD parts: you just alternate between heating up both sides until it slides off.\nUse a diode in place of a voltage divider. Anode goes to the endstop connector, cathode to the signal of the probe. This prevents the high voltage of the probe from being seen by the electronics, while allowing the probe to drain the current from the pull-up resistor.\n\n\nWith this last solution, make sure the reverse leakage current of the diode is not too high. If it has a reverse current of (let's say) 50uA, then 50uA flowing through the (supposed 4.7k) pull-up to ground would raise the voltage at the signal pin to 5.002V. This is unlikely to be a problem, but with higher value resistors or higher leakage you'd see the voltage raise higher above 5V (which the microcontroller won't like).\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n4542,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,B.Lyon,2.528907649931287,4.196075810684715,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,1.878685800062712,Looking to use 3D printing to make a master plate for rubber stamp vulcanizing,\"I am an art rubber stamp maker, using a vulcanizer to make art rubber stamps from molds that are usually created with a magnesium plate. \n\nThe normal process is to send artwork off to an engraving firm to acid etch the magnesium plate (11 pt depth is desired) and that metal plate is then used with uncured matrix boards (a bakelight type material) that is \"\"cured\"\" in the vulcanizer that is then used over and over to make as many images of the rubber stamps as one would want. The vulcanizer heats up to 300 to 320 °F, and one usually uses 2000 to 2500 p.s.i. of pressure for 10 to 15 minutes to cure a mold. Once the mold is cured, it is impervious to the heat used in the vulcanizer, and the heat is used to cure the unvulcanized rubber (again, 300 or so degrees, 2000 psi, or so, for 8 to 10 minutes.\n\nIn reading up about the melting points of PLA and ABS, the 200 °C equates to around 460 °F, so there doesn't seem like the heat of the vulcanizer will be an issue, and the pressure isn't applied all at once, one usually allows the uncured matrix board to heat up before the high pressure is obtained, I'm just curious if any other stamp makers have had success with this method and/or have any suggestions about STL files for this type of printing, if there needs to be 2 or 3 degree shoulder angle added to the file configuration, or any other suggestions.\n\",Luis Diaz,\"I don't know if I understood your question properly. You using the mold to create a rubber stamp and then you use that to stamp over stuff? If so, you simply can use 3D printing to create the stamp, if not, my answer is rubbish. \n\nYou can use a flex material to create the stamp itself and then use some hard material to create the handle. Also, you can create a mold around the stamp and use resin to fill it and/or create a resin mold and then use that mold to create the stamps by filling the \"\"holes\"\" with more resin.\n\",0.0,0.0\n4542,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,B.Lyon,2.528907649931287,4.196075810684715,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,1.878685800062712,Looking to use 3D printing to make a master plate for rubber stamp vulcanizing,\"I am an art rubber stamp maker, using a vulcanizer to make art rubber stamps from molds that are usually created with a magnesium plate. \n\nThe normal process is to send artwork off to an engraving firm to acid etch the magnesium plate (11 pt depth is desired) and that metal plate is then used with uncured matrix boards (a bakelight type material) that is \"\"cured\"\" in the vulcanizer that is then used over and over to make as many images of the rubber stamps as one would want. The vulcanizer heats up to 300 to 320 °F, and one usually uses 2000 to 2500 p.s.i. of pressure for 10 to 15 minutes to cure a mold. Once the mold is cured, it is impervious to the heat used in the vulcanizer, and the heat is used to cure the unvulcanized rubber (again, 300 or so degrees, 2000 psi, or so, for 8 to 10 minutes.\n\nIn reading up about the melting points of PLA and ABS, the 200 °C equates to around 460 °F, so there doesn't seem like the heat of the vulcanizer will be an issue, and the pressure isn't applied all at once, one usually allows the uncured matrix board to heat up before the high pressure is obtained, I'm just curious if any other stamp makers have had success with this method and/or have any suggestions about STL files for this type of printing, if there needs to be 2 or 3 degree shoulder angle added to the file configuration, or any other suggestions.\n\",Cem Kalyoncu,\"PEI filament has glass transition temperature higher than or close to 200 C. It is difficult to print with as it is printed about 350 C and requires heated chamber reaching to 90 C.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4551,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mitch,1.726248027126092,4.72751494044221,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Is my 5A polyfuse on my RAMPS board bad?,\"My printer stopped printing during a few prints, and i found that the extruder had stopped heating, and the motors had stopped running. I checked the code, and nothing was wrong. My 5A fuse though, was extremely hot. I wanted to verify whether it was my fuse that had turned bad or there was some kind of short in my circuitry. \nWith the power switched on, none of my appliances drew any current. However, the RAMPS board drew about 0.16 amps. \nIs that normal? \nIf that is normal, does it mean that my fuse needs replacement? Because none of my loads seemed to draw unnecessary current.\nThanks in advance.\n\",TextGeek,\"As @Mikhail Z commented, it does sound like the fuse may be bad.\n\nThe first thing to do is put an ohmmeter across the fuse (with power off!) -- if you get high resistance the fuse is definitely bad. However, if you get low resistance that does not prove the fuse is good -- see @Tom's comments below re. polyfuses in particular, and how to disconnect from the rest of the circuit.\n\nIf you don't get lucky testing a fuse in-line, remove it and put the ohmmeter on it in isolation. Whether good or bad, it's good to put in a fuse-holder or socket, so you never have to de-solder the fuse again. \n\nSome boards use auto-resetting fuses or circuit breakers, which might have more complicated ways of failing (you can always replace the part to be sure). I personally avoid auto-resetting for anything that supplies heaters; if there's a problem I want to intervene rather than letting it try again endlessly.\n\nSince the heaters and the motors are both down, it's a good bet it's the fuse or something very early (that is, \"\"near\"\" the power supply). If it were a single motor or single heater, then the output control (typically a solid-state relay, or perhaps the logic controlling it) would be a better bet. Though unlikely, it's possible for two or more such controls to fail at once, so don't rule that out completely.\n\nLet us know what you discover.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4551,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mitch,1.726248027126092,4.72751494044221,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Is my 5A polyfuse on my RAMPS board bad?,\"My printer stopped printing during a few prints, and i found that the extruder had stopped heating, and the motors had stopped running. I checked the code, and nothing was wrong. My 5A fuse though, was extremely hot. I wanted to verify whether it was my fuse that had turned bad or there was some kind of short in my circuitry. \nWith the power switched on, none of my appliances drew any current. However, the RAMPS board drew about 0.16 amps. \nIs that normal? \nIf that is normal, does it mean that my fuse needs replacement? Because none of my loads seemed to draw unnecessary current.\nThanks in advance.\n\",joshConway,\"Its very likely the polyfuse is bad. In an ideal printer, given the heater cores and great deal of power, polyfuses are some of the worst things you can use. Polyfuses have a tendency to fail in \"\"interesting\"\" ways, especially around their trigger amperage. Fire is one of those failure modes.\n\nNot only that, but if this is a noname chinese RAMPS 1.4, then you're also looking at 1/2 oz pour (it should be 1 oz or more for power traces) for the circuit board and cheaping on everything possible. I've a few boards like this that are a firetrap, along with a badly poured PCB heated bed. In that case, I would consider getting a better controller. If that's outside of your budget there is another way to do this.\n\nUnsolder the polyfuses and put wire between them. Normally, this is unprotecting yourself. But we're going to fix that. Head to the local automotive shop and get yourself inline fuses (think of 2 wires with a fuse in a pill shaped device). You want a 5A and a 11A fuse. Or if you did the math and know better, get the fuses you calculated for. Now, make sure they're inline with the + side of the power.\n\nYou now have external fuses that you know are rated for the appropriate amperage, unlike polyfuses.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4552,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user21760,1.726248027126092,4.536084931540163,0.0,2.011441651225199,-1.1827783713261073,-1.3276579603156529,XYZ calibration without PINDA probe,\"I have been happily printing with my Original Prusa i3 MK2S for a few weeks now. I have been thinking about replacing the PINDA probe with a BLTouch tactile sensor.\n\nIf I do so, how will I be able to do the XYZ calibration? I believe that the tactile sensor would only be able to do Z calibration. If I need to redo the XYZ calibration in the future for some reason, is it possible to do manually? Or would I need to remount an extruder with a PINDA probe temporarily?\n\",C. Hediger,\"If you want to replace the PINDA probe (whatever reason for) then you can go with the BLTouch Sensor but only for certain operations. \n\nIt will be good for leveling the bed before printing because here, only the bed level is important and not the skew of the bed. \n\nIf it comes to calibration of the skew itself, the BLTouch Sensor will not be usable because the PINDA Probe detects the boundaries of the copper circles on the print bed. The BLTouch cannot detect these copper areas.\n\nThe PINDA Probe is a proximity sensor. \n\nIf you want to do a recalibration you have to mount the PINDA again. \n\nTherefore, it is possible but not recommended. \n\",-1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4553,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user21760,1.726248027126092,4.654647691048272,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Heater cartridge connector for Original Prusa i3 MK2S,\"I am thinking about rewiring the extruder heater cartridge. What is the connector on the Rambo Mini? I'm thinking about putting a similar connector close to the extruder to make replacement easy. I tried looking through the schematic but could find the part number for the connector (I believe on page 4?).\n\n\n\",Ajk Tek,\"This is referred to as a Terminal Block Connector. More specifically this is a 2-position pluggable terminal block connector commonly manufactured by Phoenix Contact and others.\n\nNewark.com Sale Page: Pluggable Terminal Block, 5.08 mm, 2 Positions, 24 AWG, 12 AWG, 2.5 mm², Screw \n\nLarger Picture: 2-Position Terminal Block Connectors\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n4560,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CodeOfCan,0.0,3.5228313775130022,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,What is a good book to read about 3D printer settings?,\"I've google searched many forums, blogs, and articles about 3D printer settings. There is a lot of guess work. Most of the materials are of amateur technical quality lacking the keen and systematic insight of an expert. Usually books are high in quality and written by experts.\n\nI have built a 3D printer and would like to maximize my print quality. Are there any good books that have an in-dept analysis of printer settings?\n\",Puma,\"There may be books out there, but purchasing a book isn't in your best interest. The reason so much of the information seems to be from amateurs is because every 3d printer is different. \n\nTo find the correct settings for your printer you need to calibrate it based on the material, slicer software, hardware, and firmware. Your best option to find a good starting point is to check the manufacturer's website and look for a forum. \n\nEven using the same printer and material as someone else has the potential to yield different results. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4562,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user8252,2.8153892694839717,5.717109868515536,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Anet A8 extruder is clicking and not extruding,\"I was printing with my Anet A8 and it pulled the filament spool off of the shelf I have the printer on and forced the filament out of the extruder. I took apart the extruder and removed the debris that was left inside, re-leveled the bed and tried to start another print. When the extruder tries to feed the filament it makes a clicking sound and won't extrude. How do I fix this?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"There are a number of unanswered questions which may serve as a guideline to narrow down a solution. \n\nInstead of attempting a new print, consider to remove the filament again. Shine a light from below and look into the barrel of the extruder to determine if you can see light. If this is mechanically impractical, move to next option.\n\nManually feed the filament into the extruder. Use the panel to advance the filament rather than creating a print. Does the filament feed properly?\n\nIf yes, the problem is not in the extruder system, nor the heat block or hot end. You said you re-leveled the bed. Double check that the nozzle is not being blocked by the bed, preventing filament from extruding.\n\nIf the filament does not feed properly, you may not have completely cleared the heat break, hot end, or nozzle. If you can get or have nylon filament in the correct size, perform a nylon cleaning operation. This involves removing the existing filament, raising the nozzle temperature to 240°C while pushing nylon through. You have to be able to manually force the filament through until you see only clean nylon from the nozzle.\n\nI have had to push nylon in at the correct temperature, then pull it back out without any extrusion due to the depth of the blockage.\n\nAfter you've pushed as much as you can to get clean nylon (or none), cool the hot end to descend below 140°C. After a moment or two, set the temperature to 140°C and forcibly remove the filament from the upper portion of your assembly. It may require pliers and substantial force to get this out.\n\nRepeat the heating, extrusion (or attempts), removal until you get clean nylon from the nozzle and clean nylon at the tip of the removed filament.\n\nOnly just today, I had to clear my nozzle using this method, but I was unable to get a reasonable extrusion of clean nylon. I have a 0.4 mm nozzle drill and applied that to the tip of the nozzle, carefully.\n\nI found a burned on segment by this additional step and succeeding nylon cleanings went well and my nozzle is printing cleanly again.\n\nIf you don't have nylon, you can perform similar cleanings (called cold pulls) with ABS or PLA.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4568,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gord,4.030301511886631,5.872847908935505,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,4.503257053771732,5.05486507001676,How may I identify the firmware in use on my 3D printer?,\"I have a generic printer with no support documentation. \n\nHow do I determine what firmware is in use so that I can research how to make the print run?\n\",Luis Diaz,\"Send M115 to the printer. This command is \n\n\n Request the Firmware Version and Capabilities of the current microcontroller.\n\n\nResponse example:\n\n\n ok PROTOCOL_VERSION:0.1 FIRMWARE_NAME:FiveD FIRMWARE_URL:http%3A//reprap.org MACHINE_TYPE:Mendel EXTRUDER_COUNT:1\n\n\nFor more info see here, RepRapWiki- G-code - M115: Get Firmware Version and Capabilities.\n\n\n\nOf course, this isn't guaranteed to tell the truth, just whatever your generic clone firmware had in its source code.\n\",3.859531739127555,0.0\n4633,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gord,1.726248027126092,4.0129394960221205,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,First print origin,\"Slicer set up for print asks bed size. This is easy: 200mm x 200mm\nBut what is the origin.\nIf I leave it at 0,0 the it tries to start printing at 200mm, off the bed. \nDoes the origin establish where the print starts, in centred, or something else. \nShould I set origin as 100,100 or -100,-100 or something else. \nThanks\n\",fred_dot_u,\"It could be useful to know what model of printer you are using. It would be useful to know what firmware you are using.\n\nThe origin is established in the firmware, if you are working with a printer you built yourself or constructed from a kit and had to flash the firmware.\n\nThere is a related post to this forum which covers changing the origin by 10 mm, but the information contained within is useful for your reference.\n\nEffectively, you will want to ensure that the settings in the firmware match your specific printer configuration. The information I've been able to collect suggest that your max x and y position be placed in the firmware.\n\nNot knowing your printer makes a certain answer more difficult. If your endstops are at the maximum travel limits, the above answer is valid. If your endstops are at the origin, there is something else amiss.\n\nPlease consider to edit your question to include endstop location and printer model number. Firmware and controller information is also useful.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4570,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mikhail Z,0.0,5.524190934034691,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How to set up USB camera for Octoprint on Debian system,\"I installed OctoPrint on my nettop (Foxconn NT-330) to control custom-built Delta printer. I also have generic USB endoscope-type camera attached to the nettop.\n\nBasic setup went well, printer is visible and controllable by OctoPrint server.\nUSB camera is visible via usb-list and mplayer can output live video.\n\nThe problem is that on the OctoPrint Webcam configuration tab it requires \"\"Stream URL\"\" which I don't know where to get from.\n\",Lukas Valine,\"You need to install a web-cam server on your Nettop. Octorint recommends Yawcam for windows and mjpg-streamer for linux.\n\nmjpg-streamer: https://github.com/jacksonliam/mjpg-streamer\nYawcam: http://www.yawcam.com/\n\nOctoPrint has instructions for installing mjpg-streamer on a raspberry pi. The process should be very similar for a Nettop running Debian so its a good starting place. The instructions are a little ways down the page: https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/wiki/Setup-on-a-Raspberry-Pi-running-Raspbian\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5294,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tom Unger,1.0891412423578797,4.466588741384389,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,How can I read this 3mf-File,\"So I am trying to get the XSD-Schema from this object. When I open the File I just get something like this code (snippet):\n\n¸†2¡Q·2ºyƒeCã2ï…w ïÀ|¼ðAøä[0Ÿ |>‚|ó‘å2²ºFƒ¼Æò1ùàåcj@Þ`ùиÌ{áÈ;0/|¾ \n ùÌ'Ÿ„ Á|d½¬¬¯Õ ¯±|l¾…­Œo@Þ`ùиÌ{áÈ;0/|¾ùÌ'Ÿ„ Á|d½œ¬¯Ó ¯±|h\\æ­Œo@Þ`ù¸|\n ßBs¦5–Œ~ôè»­£(™c´“Ç£[yp1:æ'Éc4Jó Uâ˜ÍÇ<h—8^'ЯÉ\n\n\nWhat is this? How can I convert it back? I need to edit the structure manually.\nThank you in advance.\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"Seems to be your are trying to edit a file with the wrong file editor.\n\nIf you have Microsoft® Windows® 8.1, you can print directly using the 3MF format included. Simply set the print options in the 3D Print PropertyManager and print to the 3D printer. A preview of the print bed and the model's location within the print bed lets you modify settings before committing to a 3D print job.\n\nTo access the 3D print dialog box and specify print options, click File > 3DPrint. The print dialog box that is available depends on your installed 3D print driver.\n\nIf you need to get the STL you may need to use a file conversion, here is a youtube tutorial to makeprintable\n\",0.0,0.0\n5294,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tom Unger,1.0891412423578797,4.466588741384389,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,How can I read this 3mf-File,\"So I am trying to get the XSD-Schema from this object. When I open the File I just get something like this code (snippet):\n\n¸†2¡Q·2ºyƒeCã2ï…w ïÀ|¼ðAøä[0Ÿ |>‚|ó‘å2²ºFƒ¼Æò1ùàåcj@Þ`ùиÌ{áÈ;0/|¾ \n ùÌ'Ÿ„ Á|d½¬¬¯Õ ¯±|l¾…­Œo@Þ`ùиÌ{áÈ;0/|¾ùÌ'Ÿ„ Á|d½œ¬¯Ó ¯±|h\\æ­Œo@Þ`ù¸|\n ßBs¦5–Œ~ôè»­£(™c´“Ç£[yp1:æ'Éc4Jó Uâ˜ÍÇ<h—8^'ЯÉ\n\n\nWhat is this? How can I convert it back? I need to edit the structure manually.\nThank you in advance.\n\",mac,\"Three likely culprit:\n\n\nThe file is compressed but your machine can't detect it. So for example the 3MF model has been zipped, and what you are trying to do is opening the zip archive in the text editor, rather than the file that is in the zip archive. Solution: try to see if common decompress utilities like zip, gzip, 7z can open the file.\nThe file is a 3MF model but the character encoding in the file being different than the one your editor is expecting (typically Unicode/UTF-8, these days). Solution: read on the rest of this answer.\nThe file is a binary one that is totally unrelated to 3MF. So in essence: an error, you are trying to open maybe an MP3 or a JPG file believing it to be a 3MF instead.\n\n\nAs for the \"\"wrong encoding\"\" option... Oversimplifying a bit, the story goes like this:\n\n\ncomputers write data to files in bytes,\na byte can only be set to one of its 256 possible values,\nin the early days of computing, when computers were just glorified calculators, it was enough to have a 1:1 ratio between the byte possible values and the symbols one wanted to use, so ASCII was born (actually ASCII only \"\"mapped\"\" the first 127 values of the byte, but that is a detail). So: value #49 would represent a 1, value #90 a Z and so on...\nshortly afterwards, computers became powerful enough that people wanted to use them to process human languages, so the need for more characters (like accented ones åáä or the ones from non-latin alphabets like Cyrillic язы́к or arabic عَرَبِيّ‎, or...) came to be and engineers speaking different languages had the \"\"brilliant\"\" idea to each use the other 127 \"\"free slots\"\" in a byte for their favourite languages, thus a plethora of extended ASCII encodings was born, each using the same byte value, but each mapping to a different symbol.\nlater on, people began to realise the need to combine the use of say Gaelic, English, Japanese and Farsi with mathematical symbols, and thus they came up to way to map symbols to values expressed as the product of more bytes (so for example: 2 bytes encoding could map 256x256=65536 symbols). Again: each system using the same values but different symbols.\nfinally after decades of frustrated users and expensive bugs, engineers around the world settled for a multi-byte standard that has 1,114,112 possible values that could contain all characters one can possibly need, and Unicode was born.\n\n\nBack to your question: despite unicode having been around for a few decades now, legacy software and sloppy programming are a thing, and there are still systems that do not use unicode internally but some legacy \"\"special purpose\"\" encoding.\n\nUnfortunately, it is impossible to say with certainty how a file was encoded, so occasionally you may find yourself opening a file and starting decoding it according to a \"\"conversion table\"\" that is not the one used by the author of the file itself. This is what it looks like is happening to you.\n\nOnward to what you can try to do to fix this...\n\nFirst of all: as attentive readers may have already inferred, you will need the actual file for this. In fact if you cut-and-paste its \"\"content\"\" from an editor what you are really doing is cutting-and-pasting the decoding your computer did of the byte values, and not the byte values themselves.\n\nThen your best bets are:\n\n\nTry one of the online detectors like this one, using \"\"English\"\" as a language. These detectors work by trying all the decoders they know of until the decoded file will have English (or another language of your choice) words in it. This may not work for you as a 3MF file is mostly numbers, not text, but it is worth a shot.\nGuesstimate what encoder may have been used. For example: if you got the file from an old windowsXP machine from Eastern Europe, chances are it may have been encoded with \"\"windows-1251\"\". Use an online converter to see if you were right about it.\nUse brute force. For this you will require to write a simple programme or ask somebody to do it for you, but the key idea here is to have a script taking your original file and decoding it using all encoders in that programming language knows of. Then it will be up to you to open each decoded file individually and verify if it worked or not.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4576,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,anyan88,2.528907649931287,3.889716294241372,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.104288080884247,Help! 3D Printing Corals for Aquarium Decorations,\"We manufacture artificial corals for aquarium decorations.\n\nWe are trying to use 3D scanning and printing to duplicate live corals. Please see attached photos, left is 3D printed model, right is coral molded using resin.\n\nThe problem is lacking detail, the real corals have pores (tiny holes).\n\nCan anybody please help to add pores to the 3D printed corals? Maybe using Blender 3D software?\n\n\n\n\n\",Luis Diaz,\"First thing to check it's, What printer are you using? is FDM or SLA/SLS? Technology used is the great bottleneck to achieve the results that you want to. \n\nAlso, going cheap in 3D printing it's a way to get bad results. A good setup it's really important to get a great XY and Z resolution. \n\nFDM it's not able to achieve the same resolution as SLS/SLA has, but it's cheaper.\n\nIf you using FDM try reducing wall speed, that will increase the detail level. Using a smaller nozzle and lower layer settings will increase it as well.\n\nEDIT: Also, you need to check in the 3D model how the model is. If the details that you're looking for are not there, there is nothing else to do but start doing it by hand.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n4576,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,anyan88,2.528907649931287,3.889716294241372,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.104288080884247,Help! 3D Printing Corals for Aquarium Decorations,\"We manufacture artificial corals for aquarium decorations.\n\nWe are trying to use 3D scanning and printing to duplicate live corals. Please see attached photos, left is 3D printed model, right is coral molded using resin.\n\nThe problem is lacking detail, the real corals have pores (tiny holes).\n\nCan anybody please help to add pores to the 3D printed corals? Maybe using Blender 3D software?\n\n\n\n\n\",Trish,\"As you told in a comment, you are using an FDM printer. Now... here's the problem:\n\nFDM can't do details this small with a standard nozzle. I do print occasionally an item that has a 0.2 mm circular depression in its wall. To show, I need to print with a 0.2 nozzle. So take note: smaller nozzle = smaller achieveable details. As a rule of thumb, the nozzle diameter is the smallest visible detail in XY and 2 layer thicknesses in Z. Remember, that some intricate details can become SUPER fragile.\n\nNext up is print time: The smaller the nozzle, the longer the print, as you need more movements to follow the now more complex outline and to achieve the same density of interior, more (but thinner) interior walls too.\n\nSo, FDM has two limitations:\n\n\nNozzle size is limited downwards, limiting the achieveable details.\nPrint time is the great unequalizer, as halving the nozzle diameter usually results in more than double the print time.\n\n\nBut fret not, there is a way out: Go even tinyer! Stereolothography and other resind based systems (DLP/SLA) are more time efficient when it comes to details and can manage even smaller details. Under some conditions (very fine powder and precise laser) SLS and DLSM might achieve the size, but nylon based prints don'T work under water while metal prints might not serve the purpose really.\n\nIn either case, your print file needs to have the details you wants to print: it makes no difference if your 3D scan does not include the pores what system you use - information not included can't be printed. Check your Slicer if the model has the surface you want.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4584,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Brian T Brennglass,2.528907649931287,4.469588210980069,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,prusa i3 not extruding enough plastic,\"I built my 3d printer from a kit a few weeks ago, and initially, it was working fine. However, when I took it with me to college, something must have went awry. The first layer comes out fine, but afterwards, the infill breaks apart. It extrudes the entire time, but there are gaps in it that make prints porous, unisitely, and brittle. The printer is a prussa i3 knockoff. I have included a gallery of a recent print attempt of mine. I hope you guys can help me diagnose the problem. \n\nGallery: https://imgur.com/gallery/BLxJa\n\",fred_dot_u,\"For your troubleshooting process, I would suggest to use a simple model, perhaps a small cylinder of 20-25 mm diameter, 5-6 mm height. \n\nYou've not indicated what material you are using, nor the extruder/nozzle temperatures, but the print appears to be suffering from low temperature problems. You would also include the slicer software name although I don't believe this matters.\n\nThe initial layer will print reasonably well, if your slicer performs a reduced speed layer one. The slower filament movement through the nozzle allows it time to heat up for an acceptable layer, while the faster later layers will prevent enough heat to be imparted to the filament.\n\nIncrease your temperature at least 10°C for the initial test, as your part is quite a bit below temperature, in my opinion. If the first test is not acceptable, increase by 5°C for each succeeding test.\n\nKeep in mind that individual brands will have different optimum temperatures and within a specific brand, different colors will require temperature adjustment.\n\nThe \"\"initially working fine\"\" reference does not include information regarding filament change, color change or other useful information such as print speed, layer thickness, etc., but I'm aiming for a temperature adjustment as the most likely answer.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4590,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Granny,2.528907649931287,4.896994979675397,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Correct amount of force on piece of paper when leveling bed,\"I am having some problems with bed adhesion and curling of the edges. Also my printer causes alot of stringing when creating the first layer, this can cause the print to let go of the bed and then it just drags around with the nozzle. \n\nI have a Anet A8 and i tried multiple different amount of force pressing down on the paper. But what is the desired amount of force pushing down on the paper? Is it supposed to move freely? Or is it supposed to be quite hard to move around under the nozzle? \n\nIm using basic filament from Gearbest. Gearbest Filament.\n\n\n\",Mikhail Z,\"Actual task in your case is to find correct nozzle height for the first layer, so the force for pulling out the paper is not important. It just has to be the same every time you make calibration. Because of the different force you apply, different paper thickness and other factors, found position can only be treated as 'relative'.\n\nTo complete the calibration you will have to make several test prints with different initial heights, starting from the lowest, adding 0.1-0.2mm (depending on the nozzle diameter) before you find the right value.\n\nPlease note that 1) initial layer height is not the only factor, affecting adhesion 2) some slicer programs may add not the same amount of height that you specify\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n4605,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Granny,2.1782824847157594,4.153096262786704,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Extruder keeps jamming because of filament dust!,\"Yesterday evening i have been trying to print a few upgrades but after coming home after an hour, it is printing in the air because there is to much filament dust inside the extruder. Is this because the filament that is being extruded is getting to soft so the gear grinds parts off? I never had this problem before. \n\nPrinter:\n\nAnet A8. \n\",Carl Witthoft,\"I'm highly unconvinced that dust in the gearing is related to your problem. If the material is still being extruded, then \"\"in the air\"\" suggests the base layers may have slipped, or your belts are slipping, either of which will lead to a huge lateral offset, and thus the \"\"printing in air\"\" problem. It's possible but less likely that the extruder feed gear itself is slipping.\n\nIf you can post a picture of one of these situations, that would help a lot. \n\nI will mention in passing that there are several models for filament guides at thingiverse.com . Putting one of these on your machine will eliminate scraping and the resultant dust.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4605,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Granny,2.1782824847157594,4.153096262786704,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Extruder keeps jamming because of filament dust!,\"Yesterday evening i have been trying to print a few upgrades but after coming home after an hour, it is printing in the air because there is to much filament dust inside the extruder. Is this because the filament that is being extruded is getting to soft so the gear grinds parts off? I never had this problem before. \n\nPrinter:\n\nAnet A8. \n\",Davo,\"Pictures would help, but I believe that the \"\"dust\"\" is not the cause of your issue, but another symptom. When the filament doesn't advance as fast as the job requires (for whatever reason), the drive mechanism erodes the filament as it attempts to drive it along.\n\nGive us some basics: has your machine worked well with these settings on prints before? What is your material, temperature, print speed and nozzle diameter?\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5968,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Granny,2.528907649931287,3.861196422461661,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,Extruder prints fine up until further down the print,\"So I recently installed a genuine E3D V6 (direct) on my AM8 (Anet a8 with upgraded frame). I have already been able to fix most of the print quality problems. But the last one is a hard one for me. \n\nIt prints super fine up until a certain height. Then the extruder starts slipping and starts making weird noises like its clogged but I will be able to push through filament properly after cancelling the print. I thought it was heat creep but when touching the spiral heat break it is just a tad warm. I can comfortably put my finger on it and keep it there. \n\nI also tried two different brands of filament and it seems to happen roughly at the same spot. \n\nI tried PID tuning (the temps are literally perfect and super straight with no fluctuations), I tried cleaning the extruder gear and checked if it was worn or anything. Then I tightened everything on the extruder, making sure everything was nice and snug. \n\nI am not exactly a newbie when it comes to fixing my own printer and troubleshooting the problems but this one I have never seen or had before. \n\nDo you guys have any tips for me to point me in the right direction?\n\nRunning Marlin 1.1.8. I have a BLTouch on it and an AnyCubic UltraBase. \n\",Granny,\"I used a different heat break with a PFTE lining inside. After that it ran smoothly. \n\nProbably what was happening was that my filament was getting too hot and started to stick on the full metal heat break. \n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n5968,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Granny,2.528907649931287,3.861196422461661,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,Extruder prints fine up until further down the print,\"So I recently installed a genuine E3D V6 (direct) on my AM8 (Anet a8 with upgraded frame). I have already been able to fix most of the print quality problems. But the last one is a hard one for me. \n\nIt prints super fine up until a certain height. Then the extruder starts slipping and starts making weird noises like its clogged but I will be able to push through filament properly after cancelling the print. I thought it was heat creep but when touching the spiral heat break it is just a tad warm. I can comfortably put my finger on it and keep it there. \n\nI also tried two different brands of filament and it seems to happen roughly at the same spot. \n\nI tried PID tuning (the temps are literally perfect and super straight with no fluctuations), I tried cleaning the extruder gear and checked if it was worn or anything. Then I tightened everything on the extruder, making sure everything was nice and snug. \n\nI am not exactly a newbie when it comes to fixing my own printer and troubleshooting the problems but this one I have never seen or had before. \n\nDo you guys have any tips for me to point me in the right direction?\n\nRunning Marlin 1.1.8. I have a BLTouch on it and an AnyCubic UltraBase. \n\",0scar,\"I have had some similar problems as you describe with my custom build CoreXY printer. I used an all-metal heat break for my 2.85 mm diameter filament. The heat break clogged up. I found that the inner diameter of the heatbreak, although specifically designed for 3 mm filament, narrowed down having a ledge inside. I replaced the heat break with a spare with a teflon tube inside, and never had any problems again.\n\nSince then I scoured the internet to find some proper all metal heat breaks and order a few that do not seem to have that deficiency. I have not tried these (while hot, but when cold the filament also moves better through it and does not get stuck on a ledge like the first one), but will when I print POM and ColorFabb PA-CF Low Warp with my soon to arrive Olsson Ruby nozzle.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4593,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Henry,2.528907649931287,4.328251403802308,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,how to level kossel's endstops?,\"My printer is kossel (delta 3d printer).\n\nI have a probe far away from the nozzle (offset -x45 y17),every time I run G29, the result is unacceptable, the z distance between points is over 0.5mm, it's not because of the probe's accuracy, I test repeatedly the result is the same.\n\nI cost much time level the bed, finally I realize maybe it's because not only my bed, but also my z max endstops are not horizontal.\n\nMy question is \n\n\nhow to level the z endstops? (now I think both bed and z endstops are not horizontal)\nis my analyzation correct? any other possible?\n\n\",Mikhail Z,\"First, you should make sure that printing surface is adjusted correctly: it must be perpendicular to all three delta columns, all other adjustable parts must be checked and adjusted if necessary (depending on actual printer design).\n\nAssuming that upper end-stops can be adjusted as well.\n\n\nHome effector with G28 command, then move it close to one column (some versions of Marlin have these commands hardcoded in the menu)\nMove Z-axis slowly until the nozzle touches the bed\nRecord Z position\nRepeat above steps for two remaining columns\nThen adjust end stops: if you need to raise nozzle (it touches the bed too early), then you move endstop up. If nozzle is too high (it reaches Z0 and still toes not touch the bed), then move endstop down.\nMove endstops very gently because sometimes it it can be a matter of a fraction of millimeter.\nAfter endstops calibration is done, verify that nozzle is properly calibrated at the center of the bed. Or run G29 if you like.\n\n\nThis procedure should make your endstops properly adjusted relative to the printing bed.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4594,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pyro,1.726248027126092,3.3916584347368426,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,What should I consider before buying a 3D printer?,\"I am currently looking to buy a 3D printer. I've done some research about which technologies and materials they use. I've seen some models seems good so far but my concern is 'Are they mechanically solid?'. I don't want it to become a scrap after some usage. Since there are a lot of enthusiasts here that use 3D printer regularly, I would like to get use of your experience with 3D printers and their producer brands. \n\nI am not buying it for hobby. I'll mostly use it to make cases for circuit boards. \n\",fred_dot_u,\"Not surprisingly, your question is a difficult one to pin down in a precise manner. I'm going to pull one line from your post as the focus for my answer.\n\n\n I would like to get use of your experience with 3D printers and their producer brands\n\n\nI would suggest that you isolate a few models (or more) that hold your interest. A good example of a popular, quality printer is the Prusa i3 MK2s, although some would consider it to be expensive. It's available in kit form, as well as fully assembled, another topic entirely.\n\nFind the forums specific to the printer models you've selected and read as many posts as you can. Look for user postings describing problems and suggested solutions. Look for user postings describing modifications which implies a problem that had to be solved by the user or community before the printer performed satisfactorily.\n\nI've assisted in the building of a Prusa i3 MK2s recently and am currently assisting in a home-spun design based on a number of other generic printers. The owner of this model is incorporating as many modifications as he can find. That tells me that this model, although not yet completed, is likely to be a handful to tune and operate to his/my satisfaction.\n\nOn the flip side, everything I've read about the Prusa told me that for the public library for which it was destined, it would be the lowest level of trouble for any model I researched. I was asked to make a recommendation and performed the suggested research via all the forums I could find.\n\nThe above sounds like a direct recommendation, and it could be, but you have not provided too many specifics. The Prusa i3 MK2s (genuine, not clone) would likely print well for your circuit board cases, but there certainly would be other models to do the same job well enough.\n\nWatch out for print bed size, based on your board size requirements. Heated beds usually mean more money, but greater variety of materials can be used as a result.\n\nIf you plan to limit your use specifically to circuit board cases, you may not have to be concerned about \"\"expandability\"\" from a feature standpoint. Single extruder models are fine for almost all 3D printing, but it's handy sometimes to have dual nozzle capacity. That's another plus for the Prusa i3 MK2s with an add-on kit, but not a big deal for case building, I think.\n\nLook in the various forums that provide general support for 3D printing (such as this one) for other posts from people who use Brand X 3D printer and have had a problem with, for example, bed adhesion, filament quality, layer shifts, nozzle clogging, just about anything.\n\nAs with many things, high quality usually means higher price. The library Prusa has been zero problems for me to support on a volunteer basis, hence my recommendation. The makerspace also enjoyed the building process by buying the kit, saving US$200 in the process and learning more about the printer.\n\nKeep an eye out for users who have experienced broken components or typically troublesome components. You would not want to buy a printer model that ships with a junky hot-end assembly if the suggested modification is to upgrade to an E3D V6 to make it work properly. A user who posts about a continuing belt breakage (rare!) could have a user-induced problem or a printer design problem, which means you'll want to cull out some of the information you see.\n\nGood luck, it's a tough decision, to be sure.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4597,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,honza-kasik,2.528907649931287,4.1156536529686205,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Anet A8 - hot end temperature still same,\"I've recently purchased Anet A8. First print went well, but now, the hot end temperature stays at ~230 °C. When I touch it, it is still cold. I tried the thermistor, and it correctly changes resistance when I blow on it (from 100 kΩ to ~70 kΩ). The voltage in connector is about 300 mV. \n\nDoes anybody know what could be wrong?\n\",honza-kasik,\"In my case, I had a bad resistor on my board. R41 had only 2.2 kΩ instead of 4.7. I replaced it and everything works now.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4602,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mikehayes,1.0891412423578797,3.5726960728578114,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,\"Z axis not moving on Prusa i3v 8\"\"\",\"I have a Maker Farm Prusa i3v 8\"\" i just finished building. Initially when i first homed it, it ran fine, it even ran a test g code for movement. The problem is now the Z axis wont move anymore. First i checked for physical issues such as binding or nuts coming out of traps, everything's OK there. In Pronterface i can move x & y no problem, but Z will not move, there is no noise from the steppers. Also unusual is the the Z axis is not on the endstop, its resting on its own in a spot (the hotend is about 2mm off the bed). I ordered some new end stop switches to try on my Z axis....any thoughts? I'll update after switch install.\n\",jeremiah harless,\"If you are using Repetier the code to test the endstops is m119 I think. If your z stop is triggered, you may have to invert it in the config.h file. I had this same issue for days before i figured out the control board was reading the switch as normal close instead of normal open. Hope that helps!\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4602,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mikehayes,1.0891412423578797,3.5726960728578114,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,\"Z axis not moving on Prusa i3v 8\"\"\",\"I have a Maker Farm Prusa i3v 8\"\" i just finished building. Initially when i first homed it, it ran fine, it even ran a test g code for movement. The problem is now the Z axis wont move anymore. First i checked for physical issues such as binding or nuts coming out of traps, everything's OK there. In Pronterface i can move x & y no problem, but Z will not move, there is no noise from the steppers. Also unusual is the the Z axis is not on the endstop, its resting on its own in a spot (the hotend is about 2mm off the bed). I ordered some new end stop switches to try on my Z axis....any thoughts? I'll update after switch install.\n\",PR90,\"Try sending a motion command manually, such as G1 X20 Z10, to eliminate any bugginess from the software interface as a reason for the Z not moving properly when commanded to. Next you could check the park location in Pronterface, perhaps the extruder head is sitting there waiting for the next command.\n\",0.0,0.0\n4603,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Felix Hauser,3.0576060275493275,6.073571671398273,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Anet A6 Firmware,\"I've just finished putting my new Anet A6 together. Very nice build all together as everything fits really well.\n\nI've tried a test print and I noticed something weird: as I try to home ONLY the Z axis to level the bed, the printer automatically moves the nozzle to the X0 Y0 after doing the Z0 first. It doesn't make a difference whether I do it on Octoprint Control or sending the G-Code, so it appears to be a Firmware thing. Why is the Firmware programmed like this is something I'd like to know because it makes the levelling of the bed a nightmare.\n\nThat's why I wanted to update the Firmware and here is where I got confused... seems that the Firmware used for this boards is something called Skynet3d. I went to their Github page and all they have are 3 section as follows:\n\n\nA board profile for the Arduino IDE\nWhat looks like the normal Marlin Firmware\nSkynet3d Firmware, which is empty.\n\n\nInside section 2, all I see is a normal group of files corresponding to the Marlin Firmware and some configuration.h examples: they have one for the Anet A8 but not for the Anet A6\n\nSo, summing up my question is: Where do I find the A6 Firmware? I've seen a Youtube video of a guy with the A6 profiles, but I don't know the official source of them...\n\nDoes somebody know?\n\",0scar,\"Skynet3D is an obsolete fork of Marlin Firmware that was created because the displays of the Anet printers have a different layout in terms of pin assignment. When the code stabilized, the fork of Marlin merged into the main code base. Configuration files for the Anet A8 and A6 have been added, see here for the A6, so when you flash Marlin to your board, be sure to copy these configuration files to the root code directory.\n\nAn overview of all active printer firmwares is given by www.reprap.org at List of Firmware.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n5275,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Felix Hauser,2.8153892694839717,5.949866323382668,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Compiling Marlin 2.0,\"I've just finished building a new printer and I wanted to take advantage of a 32 bits board I ordered some time ago. The board is an MKS SBase 1.3\n\nI've been researching the Smoothiware firmware but somehow I'm not convinced by it yet. One of the things pulling me off is the Z-Probe behavior. On my Arduino-Marlin 1.1.8 machine, I have a probe which serves as both probe and Z-Endstop without a problem and very elegant implemented whereas on Smoothie, it's not so trivial as far as I've seen.\n\nAnyway, there is a branch of Marlin which is not yet for release but for testing and it supports 32 bits boards, being mine mentioned above one of them: \n\nhttps://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/bugfix-2.0.x\n\nI have yet to find some documentation explaining how to install it. The closest thing I found is a thread on their GitHub \"\"forum\"\":\n\nhttps://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/8131\n\nIt seems that you have to build the project to create a firmware.bin file which you can copy to the microSD card and it will flash automatically to the board... again, no \"\"official\"\" documentation found.\n\nI've tried the steps described in this thread but I'm not able to compile for my board as it gives an error no matter what:\n\nMarlin/src/gcode/eeprom/M500-M504.cpp:74:5: error: no matching function for call to 'MarlinSettings::report(bool, int16_t&)'\n\n\nHas somebody successfully compiled this firmware? Is there something I might be doing wrong?\n\nI'm on a macOS machine, using Atom as editor with the Platformio-IDE installed.\n\nAny help is appreciated,\nThanks in advance!\n\",Felix Hauser,\"Well I found the solution on Marlin's GitHub:\n\nhttps://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/9155\n\nbut it might have been solved without having to hack the file since then.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5275,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Felix Hauser,2.8153892694839717,5.949866323382668,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Compiling Marlin 2.0,\"I've just finished building a new printer and I wanted to take advantage of a 32 bits board I ordered some time ago. The board is an MKS SBase 1.3\n\nI've been researching the Smoothiware firmware but somehow I'm not convinced by it yet. One of the things pulling me off is the Z-Probe behavior. On my Arduino-Marlin 1.1.8 machine, I have a probe which serves as both probe and Z-Endstop without a problem and very elegant implemented whereas on Smoothie, it's not so trivial as far as I've seen.\n\nAnyway, there is a branch of Marlin which is not yet for release but for testing and it supports 32 bits boards, being mine mentioned above one of them: \n\nhttps://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/bugfix-2.0.x\n\nI have yet to find some documentation explaining how to install it. The closest thing I found is a thread on their GitHub \"\"forum\"\":\n\nhttps://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/8131\n\nIt seems that you have to build the project to create a firmware.bin file which you can copy to the microSD card and it will flash automatically to the board... again, no \"\"official\"\" documentation found.\n\nI've tried the steps described in this thread but I'm not able to compile for my board as it gives an error no matter what:\n\nMarlin/src/gcode/eeprom/M500-M504.cpp:74:5: error: no matching function for call to 'MarlinSettings::report(bool, int16_t&)'\n\n\nHas somebody successfully compiled this firmware? Is there something I might be doing wrong?\n\nI'm on a macOS machine, using Atom as editor with the Platformio-IDE installed.\n\nAny help is appreciated,\nThanks in advance!\n\",Craig N,\"I have been using Marlin 2.0 bugfix for several months with no issues on my RAMPS 1.4 based printer. Installing it is the same as any other printer firmware, or rather, uploading any Arduino sketch. In fact, rather than searching \"\"how to upload Marlin Firmware\"\" you should instead search \"\"How to upload an Arduino Sketch\"\" as most printers are Arduino powered and the process is the same as making a simple LED blink program, granted the source code is MUCH bigger. The quick & dirty is: Download and install the latest Arduino IDE and make sure your board is recognized by following instructions for your board. In the Marlin directory from the downloaded firmware, open the .ino file in Arduino IDE. On the tabs above, you will see Configuration.H and Configuration_adv.h those are the 2 files to edit, and ONLY 2 unless you are familiar with what you are doing, plus Marlin 2.0 redid the file layout so you shouldn't get confused by 20+ other files open also as in 1.x. The comments give you a good idea of what to change & google will help with the rest. Once done, click on Compile & Upload in the Arduino tools, and done.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5283,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Felix Hauser,2.1782824847157594,3.985163827898809,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,3Dtouch triggers way too close,\"Today I finished building and adjusting a Prusa-Clone printer. The brain is a 32bit board with Smoothieware on in. To run the auto bed leveling routine I installed a 3DTouch (BLTouch clone, sorry low on cash).\nAfter many headaches, I got everything working fine and I'm happy with the result. Except for one thing...\n\nWhen the 3DTouch is probing, it is triggered when the nozzle is about 1 mm from the bed. If I set the probe higher, the nozzle crashes onto the bed. If I set the probe lower, the probe would be on the same level of the nozzle, not so good for print time.\n\nAnyone with similar experience or how to sole it? google doesn't show up much regarding this.\n\nThanks in advance!\n\",0scar,\"That it triggers when the nozzle is about 1 mm from the build plate is how it is supposed to work. The installation manual describes how to setup the sensor.\n\n\n The mount needs to be adjustable so that the distance between the bottom of the sensor (not the pin) needs to be 8.3mm above the tip of the nozzle.\n\n\nWhen taking the above distance into account, the probe should be hitting the build plate first when it is extended. When the probe triggers, it triggers at a certain distance from the nozzle. It is this distance that you need to add as an offset so that the printer knows where the actual Z=0 is. To determine the offset, you home the printer, then lower the head until a piece of paper gives a little drag when pulled under the nozzle. From the display you can read the offset, e.g. -1.4. With command M851 Z-1.4 you set the offset between level and trigger point. Use M500 to store the new settings.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5312,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Felix Hauser,2.1782824847157594,3.9666937385261156,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.551027839747059,Nozzle reducing flow as it comes close to finish layer,\"I've have observed that when the printer is finishing a layer, the flow of plastic through the nozzle starts fading out as it comes closer to the point of layer change.\n\nAs an example, let's say that I'm printing the first layer of a cube. The nozzle first prints the perimeters ok. Then it begins to print the inner part, beginning from one corner and finishing on the opposite one. As the nozzle comes closer to the finishing corner, the flow of plastic diminishes, resulting in the lines of the filament to touching each other. \n\nMaybe it's not a big deal, but it's annoying because it's stopping the part of having a very nice first layer and finish.\n\nMy setup is:\n\n\nAnet A6 running Marlin 1.1.8\nBed auto leveling before each print\nSlic3r Prusa Edition, latest release (as of 20 January 2018)\nPETG from Das Filament\n\n\nI tried disabling all \"\"retract\"\" settings but the issue persists.\n\nI'm beginning to think that this could be a software bug (Slic3r), but before I submit it to GitHub, I'd like to be sure.\n\nAny opinion is welcome!\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"If you think it is a slicing problem, look at the G-code. You might want to arrange for the infill to be orthogonal to the axes, but it ought to be easy enough to calculate the ratio between printhead motion and the extruder. G-code is just text, and fairly easy to make sense of. The RepRap wiki has a good reference to the commands, and all you care about are X-Y movement, and E movement.\n\nAn alternative explanation might be that your extruder is struggling with the extrusion rate, and after continuous extrusion is failing to heat the filament fast enough to melt. The layer change could be providing a sufficient respite that walls start off OK on the next layer. Also check (in the G-code) that the speed of walls and infill is the same.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5312,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Felix Hauser,2.1782824847157594,3.9666937385261156,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.551027839747059,Nozzle reducing flow as it comes close to finish layer,\"I've have observed that when the printer is finishing a layer, the flow of plastic through the nozzle starts fading out as it comes closer to the point of layer change.\n\nAs an example, let's say that I'm printing the first layer of a cube. The nozzle first prints the perimeters ok. Then it begins to print the inner part, beginning from one corner and finishing on the opposite one. As the nozzle comes closer to the finishing corner, the flow of plastic diminishes, resulting in the lines of the filament to touching each other. \n\nMaybe it's not a big deal, but it's annoying because it's stopping the part of having a very nice first layer and finish.\n\nMy setup is:\n\n\nAnet A6 running Marlin 1.1.8\nBed auto leveling before each print\nSlic3r Prusa Edition, latest release (as of 20 January 2018)\nPETG from Das Filament\n\n\nI tried disabling all \"\"retract\"\" settings but the issue persists.\n\nI'm beginning to think that this could be a software bug (Slic3r), but before I submit it to GitHub, I'd like to be sure.\n\nAny opinion is welcome!\n\",mac,\"The behaviour you are describing (stopping to extrude before the nozzle finish moving) is called coasting and is actually a desirable one if tuned correctly (which is clearly not your case).\n\nHere's a primer on why coasting is good: the hysteresis (think of it as \"\"springiness\"\") of the filament between the point where the stepper motor pinches it and pushes it towards the nozzle, and the point in which the filament liquefy, makes so that there is always a residual pressure whenever the stepper motor stop spinning. So coasting consists of stopping to actively extrude before the nozzle has reached the endpoint of the line being \"\"drawn\"\", and relying on the residual pressure to finish the job.\n\nMany slicer have a dedicated setting for this, but - to the best of my knowledge - slic3r PE has not. In your question, you seem to think this may be linked to filament retraction. It is definitively worth trying (why not!) but filament retraction normally refers to the act of relieving that residual pressure after the line being printed is finished and before moving away the nozzle, so... if that setting turns out to be the key to your problem, then it would be quite a misnomer.\n\nA quick way to verify if this is the case could be toggling the ceckbox \"\"use firmware retraction\"\" in the printer/general pane of slic3r settings. If the problem is with the retraction settings you chose, this would ignore them completely. A clean print would confirm your theory.\n\nFailing that, the best way to debug would probably be to slice the same model with a different slicer (cura is a common one) and see if the problem persists:\n\n\nif it does, then the problem is probably in the firmware or the extruder of the printer itself\nif it does not, then you would have a set of \"\"good settings\"\" in the second slicer that you could try to replicate in Slic3r PE. Or - as you believe it may be the case - you could have found a way to trigger a weird bug in Slic3r.\n\n\nGood luck and let us know about your findings! :)\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n5988,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Felix Hauser,3.618048892289167,5.742735514552347,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,TMC2208 drivers - Microsteps configured incorrectly,\"I've just installed two TMC2208 drivers on my RAMPS board. I followed a very good step by step tutorial and after some issues, I got it nearly to work.\n\nOne problem I still have is that when I tell the printer to lift the Z axis by 5 mm, it lifts it by 10 cm.\n\nI haven't changed anything regarding the steps/mm. Previously U had the Pololus, with 1/16 microstepping and now I also have 1/16 on configuration_adv.h file on Marlin 1.1.8\n\nHowever what I noticed when doing a M122 is a line which reads:\n\nmsteps 256\n\n\nwhich sounds like the microstepping was set at 1/256 instead.\n\nMaybe somebody could tell me if I missed something?\n\nUPDATE:\n\nAfter some more digging into it, here is what I've done so far:\n\n\nSolder the pins on the driver. Original from Watterrot\nSolder the bridge pads for enabling UART communication\nSolder the pin for the communication heading upwards\nChange the configuration_adv.h on Marlin (1.1.8) and enable all that is to enable: USE_TMC2208, Enable debugging, selecting the Z axis, etc\nCheck the pins on pins_RAMPS.h and make sure they are available in my setting\nMake a Y cable with the 1 kOhm resistor for the TX pin\nHook everything up\n\n\nNo matter what I did, the motor moves twice as much as requested. Although I set up 1/16 microstepping, the same I had with my Pololus, I performed the reverse calculation to find out that the actual microstepping on the driver is 1/8.\n\nAfter more investigation, the issue seems to be that the driver is not recognized at all by the Marlin/Board. Thinking that it was a problem with the TX/RX communication, I dug into the available info out there and I found this, Bug: TMC2208 UART Communication uses wrong pins for SoftwareSerial #9396.\n\nI proceeded to change the assigned pins for serial RX/TX, but everything is exactly the same.\n\nI tried a different Arduino (original), another RAMPS board and even the 1.1.x and 2.0 bugfix branches from Marlin.\n\nIt seems that the driver is on \"\"legacy\"\" mode and software manipulation is not possible. Although I went through the steps to enable it.\n\",0scar,\"I don't have these controllers, but I read that with default settings the TMC2208 will interpolate the microsteps set by the I/O configuration pins to\n256 microsteps. Please look into how you set up the dip switches / jumper caps on your board, it seems that only 2 are used (MS1 and MS2). Furthermore, can't you just decrease the count of the array DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT for the Z entry in your configuration file?\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4609,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Vandalheart,1.0891412423578797,3.861196422461661,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,\"Is there a way to get more horizontal coverage out of \"\"Vase Mode\"\" in Simplify3D?\",\"I like using \"\"Vase Mode\"\" (or single outline corkscrew printing mode) for quick nonfunctional prints, but it tends to leave gaps in horizontal or near horizontal surfaces. I understand why it does this, but is there a way (beyond printing with no infill*) to get a little more horizontal coverage out of it?\n\n*Is the answer to this literally just \"\"Try to print without infill?\"\"\n\",Luis Diaz,\"Vase mode is what it is... As it prints one perimeter there is just one extrusion. Try increasing extrusion rate to see if that will fix the gaps. \n\nbut yes, printing without infill will do the job better than vase mode.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4609,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Vandalheart,1.0891412423578797,3.861196422461661,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,\"Is there a way to get more horizontal coverage out of \"\"Vase Mode\"\" in Simplify3D?\",\"I like using \"\"Vase Mode\"\" (or single outline corkscrew printing mode) for quick nonfunctional prints, but it tends to leave gaps in horizontal or near horizontal surfaces. I understand why it does this, but is there a way (beyond printing with no infill*) to get a little more horizontal coverage out of it?\n\n*Is the answer to this literally just \"\"Try to print without infill?\"\"\n\",Ruth Rogers,\"Version 4 allows you to have multi-process vase mode prints -- do the vertical surfaces in vase mode, then switch over to normal mode for the horizontals. This lets you have the best of both worlds in the same print. :)\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n4615,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Eamorr,0.0,3.8082347013731885,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How can I make this model?,\"Here's the model I'm trying to print, Truncated Icosahedron\n\n\n\nBut it must be 12\"\" in diameter and gray in color rgb = #444444\n\nI also want two of the hexagons to be yellow in color: rgb = #FFFF00\n\nSimilar to this photo:\n\n\n\nHow to do this? I don't seem to be able to edit the shape on shapeways.\n\n\n\nUPDATE\n\nGot it.\n\nskeleton bucky ball \n\",fred_dot_u,\"Without any restrictions to your methodology, your objective is easily accomplished. Thingiverse has a truncated icosahedron model available for download and printing.\n\n\n\nBecause the creator has included in the download the OpenSCAD source files, you could edit it to meet your bed limitations. I've downloaded the source, opened it and found the model is a single hexagon, until you change a parameter from 6 to 5 to get a pentagon. I suspect the assembly is up to the builder to figure out.\n\nIt appears that the default is for a 50 mm diameter sphere. Change the 50 in the code to 300 or so to reach your 12\"\" desired diameter.\n\nAn alternative to friction welding would be just about any decent epoxy or even a 3D printing pen such as the 3Doodler.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4619,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dream Developer,2.1782824847157594,4.737704377555135,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.6553159206313057,3d printer not printing circles correctly,\"I am having issue with my new printer it is not printing circles correctly although I have change firmware and stepping of motor\nadvise if anyone know the solution.\n\n\",Mikhail Z,\"Possible causes for the printer not printing correct dimensions:\n\n\nIncorrect number of steps/mm in firmware settings\nBelts are not tight enough\nPulley slips on the shaft\n\n\nLooking at the picture, I would go for the first case, because distortion looks regular. Try checking microstep settings on your board, and settings in the firmware.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n4619,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dream Developer,2.1782824847157594,4.737704377555135,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.6553159206313057,3d printer not printing circles correctly,\"I am having issue with my new printer it is not printing circles correctly although I have change firmware and stepping of motor\nadvise if anyone know the solution.\n\n\",Granny,\"This could be because your belts are either old or not tight enough. Try adjust or replacing the belts and try again. \n\",0.0,0.0\n4661,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dream Developer,2.528907649931287,4.0795802203458,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,How to print TPU material with 3D printer,\"Is there anything special for printing TPU material e.g extruder or temperature?\n\nIt's my first time printing TPU material, so if you have any photos, it would be great if you can share them.\n\",Davo,\"Elastomers do much better on direct-drive heads (pulled to the head by the motor) than on Bowden designs (where the material is pushed to the head by a motor). This is because the flexible TPU or TPE can bend in the guide tube, causing lag during advance/retract changes, and sometimes even bind up during delivery.\n\nLook for equipment which explicitly states that it is compatible with, and designed for, flexible filaments.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n4661,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dream Developer,2.528907649931287,4.0795802203458,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,How to print TPU material with 3D printer,\"Is there anything special for printing TPU material e.g extruder or temperature?\n\nIt's my first time printing TPU material, so if you have any photos, it would be great if you can share them.\n\",Cem Kalyoncu,\"Flexible materials cause lot of issues if there is any space between extruder gear and PTFE tube. Since it is flexible it refuses to follow the path and starts bending around the opening. There are parts in Thingiverse that you can print to remove that distance. Additionally make sure that your extruder fan is working. After those two modifications, I was able to reliably print flexible filaments.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4621,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jadeye,2.528907649931287,3.3570615728962325,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Tevo Tarantula I3 filament clogging up,\"I have just finished assembling a TT I3, with a large heated bed 220x280, a couple of weeks ago and my first print went well.\n\nAfter a few initial experiments I noticed that the filament will not stick. I have manually leveled the bed over and over again, added a glass sheet over the bed, applied masking-tape and what-not.\n\nThe filament still will not stick, it will curl up on the nozzle, clog the nozzle and all sorts of other issues...\n\nEverything functions properly but it seems like the extruder is trying to push more then the nozzle is actually putting out. My filament is 1.75 mm.\n\nCan anyone help with all this so I can get something printed decently?\n\nI am printing with PLA, I started off with 50 °C, raised it to 60 °C, and last time I tried to print a filament spool holder with 70 °C (twice), still if layer is thin it will not stick.\n\nAfter cleaning the bed with alcohol 70%, you can see the issue in these videos:\n\n\nTevo Tarantula i3 filament sticking then coming off\nTevo Tarantula i3 filament not sticking\n\n\",0scar,\"Getting that first layer to stick is sometimes pretty hard, you just need to find a good combination of settings. Clearly your filament does not stick too well as the brim comes off after been laid down after a while.\n\nParameters that affect adhesion are:\n\n\nBed temperature; a temperature close to the glass temperature is favorable as the filament is soft at that temperature, the stresses are low due to this softness and the smaller temperature difference. You already tried to increase bed temperature: 50 - 60 °C should be fine for PLA, there is no need to go higher than 60 °C,\nHotend temperature; the temperature of the filament deposition could be increased for the initial layer, usually a 5 °C increase over the standard temperature should be enough,\nOverextrusion; a small over-extrusion on the first layer (filament flow scale factor larger than 100 %) could sometimes help to better adhere the first layer, but usually this means that the nozzle to bed distance is too large,\nCorrect leveling and correct nozzle to bed distance; level the bed as good as possible or scan the bed and use mesh leveling if the build platform does not have a uniform (flat) shape, also make sure the distance between the nozzle is correct: too small or too big cause the filament not to stick very well.\nDebris in nozzle; debris in nozzle can cause non-uniform extrusion, cleaning the nozzle with the atomic method (heating up the nozzle, inserting filament, cooling down the nozzle and finally yanking out the filament cleaning all the cooked stuff inside),\nCleanness of the bed; make sure the bed is not greasy,\nTack of the bed; the use of a PVA based substance on the bed like e.g. gluestick, hairspray or specific printer sprays like 3DLAC increase the bed adhesion considerably,\nBed preparation; sanding the bed to roughen the platform, using tape, etc. are all tricks to get the filament to stick better.\n\n\nEither one of the suggested parameters or a selection of these are the answer to your question, just figure out what works best for your printer.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4623,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jadeye,2.1782824847157594,3.6528930163092497,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Tevo Tarantula extruder motor clinking sounds,\"The extruder motor makes these clinking sounds.\nI read about that and I tried to adjust it with its potentiometer,\nI tried reassembling the clamps, reinserted the leading tube in both ends, cutting them in a 90° angle but nothing helps.\n\nIt seems that if I have a print of 0.1 mm layer thickness, the nozzle does not put out enough filament and it gets clogged up in the leading metal tube to the nozzle.\n\nOn the extruder side it looks like the clogging up gets the motor the sort of skip the push of the filament.\n\nThis is my G-code.\n\nWhat is going wrong here??\nHow can I setup these params to work together smoothly?\n\",ctag,\"I'd advise against adjusting the driver's potentiometer without also taking a voltage reading and doing the math to find out what current is being driven through the stepper. Having the current too high can damage your driver or stepper. But having the current too low can cause that clicking as the stepper internally skips.\n\nThe filament may also be too cold, and is providing too much resistance to being forced out the extrusion nozzle.\n\nOr the filament may be getting stuck in the area just above the heating element in your hotend. This is called heat creep, and can cause jams. Based on your description it looks like this is happening to your hotend.\n\nOr your nozzle may be clogged with dust and contaminants. Check the diameter spec for your hotend and look up an appropriate cleaning method (for ABS you can soak in acetone, for PLA there are tiny drill bits to clear out debris).\n\nOr you may be trying to print too fast. Lowering the print speed means plastic is extruded slower and there's less pressure built up in the hotend. I would check on the other options before adjusting print speed, because it can fix the symptoms but may not be the root cause.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4624,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jadeye,1.726248027126092,3.9498466629958724,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Tevo Tarantula incorrectly auto leveling of bed,\"I decided to try and setup the bed auto level sensor.\n\nI downloaded this firmware: TEVO-Tarantula-I3-Marlin-Firmware and followed this tutorial, YouTube - Setting Up Auto Bed Leveling (Tevo Tarantula).\n\nFirmware Config files:\n\n\nconfiguration.h\nconfiguration_adv.h\n\n\nA few things happened after that:\n\n\nThe bed will not level\nThe Z axis goes up to approx. the middle...\nThe printer is in no situation to print\n\n\nI probably got something wrong...\n\nThe machine goes to the leveling points, but is approximately 10 cm above the bed.\n\",0scar,\"From your configuration.h file you see that (in line 643):\n\n#define MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS\n\n\nis not commented out, there is no // in front, so this means that manual homing with accompanying coordinates is enabled. \n\nThis should not be enabled, as this setting is used by Delta printers only. This may cause the problems you experience as there may be some sort of a conflict between manual and auto positioning.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4632,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jadeye,2.1782824847157594,4.872521172202374,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Tevo Tarantula I3 firmware,\"I've been trying to get something decent printed for days but nothing works! I have a Tarantula Tevo i3 MKS Base V1.4 and have done a lot of trial & plenty of error. Still I am puzzled to get good prints.\n\n\nWhat is the stock firmware for a single extruder regular/large bed firmware & how to configure a large bed (if needed to be configured)?\nWhich is the auto bed leveling firmware?\n\n\nI need help sorting out what's out there. I did not manage to configure a large bed with a single extruder. But did manage to restore firmware with Marlin-2.0.x\n\n\nSo the Tevo 3D Printing Store firmware link directs to a dropbox - only dual extruders - both regular & large bed,\nThere is JimBrown's GitHub MarlinTarantula - Optimized firmware for RepRap 3D printers based on the Arduino platform,\nJoelLisenby's GitHub TEVO-Tarantula-I3-Marlin-Firmware.\n\n\nI followed this, YouTube - Setting Up Auto Bed Leveling (Tevo Tarantula), for setting up the auto bed leveling sensor but it just got me messed-up even more, see Tevo Tarantula incorrectly auto leveling of bed. I'm just now in the process of trying to manually level the bed and I broke the hot end holder plastic plate...\n\n\n\nEDIT:\nThe sensor I'm using is SN04-N Inductive Proximity Sensor - 5mm\n\",Beny Benz,\"Answer for \"\"2)\"\":\n\nThe default firmware seems to be Repetier. It also includes Bed leveling (see documentation):\nhttps://www.repetier.com/documentation/repetier-firmware/z-probing/\n\nMarlin includes the Auto Bed Leveling feature too. You need to enable it by editing the Configuration.h file.\n\nBed size settings are there aswell.\n\n\"\"stylesuxx\"\" made a video on how to get Marlin onto the Tevo:\n\r\n \r\n \nor you can take a look at their website:\nhttp://marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/configuration.html#configuration.h\n\nAutoleveling can be enabeled as well in this file. There is a good video from Thomas Sanladerer on Mesh Bed Leveling:\n\r\n \r\n \n\nIf you want some help with auto bed leveling it would be nice if you can include what kind of sensor you want to use (inductive, capacitive, microswitch...) and what your prefered type of bed leveling is (mesh 3x3, just z-leveling)...\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4632,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jadeye,2.1782824847157594,4.872521172202374,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Tevo Tarantula I3 firmware,\"I've been trying to get something decent printed for days but nothing works! I have a Tarantula Tevo i3 MKS Base V1.4 and have done a lot of trial & plenty of error. Still I am puzzled to get good prints.\n\n\nWhat is the stock firmware for a single extruder regular/large bed firmware & how to configure a large bed (if needed to be configured)?\nWhich is the auto bed leveling firmware?\n\n\nI need help sorting out what's out there. I did not manage to configure a large bed with a single extruder. But did manage to restore firmware with Marlin-2.0.x\n\n\nSo the Tevo 3D Printing Store firmware link directs to a dropbox - only dual extruders - both regular & large bed,\nThere is JimBrown's GitHub MarlinTarantula - Optimized firmware for RepRap 3D printers based on the Arduino platform,\nJoelLisenby's GitHub TEVO-Tarantula-I3-Marlin-Firmware.\n\n\nI followed this, YouTube - Setting Up Auto Bed Leveling (Tevo Tarantula), for setting up the auto bed leveling sensor but it just got me messed-up even more, see Tevo Tarantula incorrectly auto leveling of bed. I'm just now in the process of trying to manually level the bed and I broke the hot end holder plastic plate...\n\n\n\nEDIT:\nThe sensor I'm using is SN04-N Inductive Proximity Sensor - 5mm\n\",Michael,\"Tevo Tarantula i3 owners on FaceBook is where I got marlin 2.0. Other things I tried didn't work, but this is working fine if you just want to add auto bed leveling using the standard SN04 sensor.\n\",0.0,0.0\n4651,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jadeye,2.1782824847157594,4.2826093020474305,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Tevo Tarantula home offset,\"Following Beny's advice, I've just setup JimBrown-MarlinTarantula firmware.\nHowever, my X0 & Y0 points are off the bed.\n\nWhen trying to center my prints & afterwards sending G1 X100 Y140 to the printer, I am still off center by the margins of the sizes my X0 & Y0 points are divided by 2.\n\nWhat should I do?\n\",0scar,\"By adjusting/calibration of the center of the bed you will automatically find the correct offset values. \n\nThis is explained in detail in this answer to the question How to center my prints on the build platform?.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4630,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mahtab Kamal,1.726248027126092,3.0484567768387603,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,3d Extruder temperature lower automatically (Prusi I3),\"when I command to start print from SD card; extruder temperature raise slowly and print start but with in 4-5 minutes suddenly Extruder temperature lower automatically.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Please consider to reference your precise model (genuine Prusa i3 or clone?) as well as the slicer software you are using.\n\nYou should be able to note from the panel information what layer the change appears. For example, if you are printing 0.200 mm layer thickness and the temperature change begins at 10.200 height, you have an important piece of information.\n\nOpen your gcode file in a text editor and look for the Z reference in the 10.000 or 10.200 range, along with the temperature gcode command. According to the reprap wiki,, the gcode command to set extruder temperature is M104 followed by Sxxx where xxx = temperature in °C. For example, you should see something like this near the beginning of the gcode\n\nM104 S205; set extruder temperature to 205°C (comments mine, some slicers also include comments)\n\nbut if your gcode is faulty, later in the body of the gcode you may see a similar command:\n\nM104 S000;\n\nthe number after the S could be anything. Consider to examine any M10x codes as there are different results for various codes. \n\nIf you find you have a dropped extruder temperature due to the gcode, double check your slicer settings to see if a second process has been initiated.\n\nI have a dual extruder printer and will usually keep the second extruder cold until just a few layers prior to printing supports at a level above the bed, then turn it on to do the supports, then back off for the rest of the print.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4637,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TlmaK0,3.618048892289167,4.619503626986393,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Delta printer distortion,\"I have make a little test with 4 dots aligned with A tower, B and C tower. Distance W and S are the same in the stl but not in the print. I have tried diferent values of diagonal root but S always is smaller than W, and all S are equal (more or less 38.20mm) and all W are equal (more or less 40.80). I expect that W and S will be 40mm. How can fix this problem?\n\n\n\nUpdate:\n\nHere is the stl I use: https://www.dropbox.com/s/2vwjbo387cmk5qa/DeltaCalibration%20v15.stl?dl=0\n\nUpdate:\nI have replaced the steper motor in tower B but same result.\n\",darth pixel,\"i bet your towers are not standing straight (vertical) or \nyour bed is not clearly horizontal\n\ni've recreated your picture with some assumptions (for example that your SW calculates properly and your steppers and motors act well)\n\ntake a look here\n\n\nif you deliver your printer dimensions \n\n\ntower height (from the base)\ntower distance from the center\nbed distance (height) from the base\n\n\ni can calculate what is inclination angle on all towers but i suppose it's not really important\n\nthe important thing is to set them straight ;)\n\nwe can see from the picture that towerA is the most inclined to the center or\nthe bed highest point is next to towerA\n(and i bet one of those or both cause the issue)\n\nEDIT\n\ni've made some calculations based on imagined assuptions of the tower height\nhere are details\n\n towerH | inclination\n-----------+----------------\n 300mm | 0.11deg\n 400mm | 0.08deg\n 500mm | 0.06deg\n\n\nseems to be quite small but in fact your differences in dimensions are also small\n\ninclination of towerB is bigger as there is bigger difference in dimensions\nso maybe the issue is more in bed \"\"horizontality\"\"\n\nwould be good if you would check and measure these params\n\nEDIT2\n\nhere goes the explanation why bed inclination causes dimension distortion\n\n\n\nof course it's exaggerated but it's just to show the issue\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n4637,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TlmaK0,3.618048892289167,4.619503626986393,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Delta printer distortion,\"I have make a little test with 4 dots aligned with A tower, B and C tower. Distance W and S are the same in the stl but not in the print. I have tried diferent values of diagonal root but S always is smaller than W, and all S are equal (more or less 38.20mm) and all W are equal (more or less 40.80). I expect that W and S will be 40mm. How can fix this problem?\n\n\n\nUpdate:\n\nHere is the stl I use: https://www.dropbox.com/s/2vwjbo387cmk5qa/DeltaCalibration%20v15.stl?dl=0\n\nUpdate:\nI have replaced the steper motor in tower B but same result.\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"Well, you have two main issues:\n\n1.- Your calculation for stepping is a little wrong, for example your firmware indicates 2315.84 when you need 2321.70 (REMEMBER this is an example and is not accurate), So you will see a diference about 2.0mm along your printing. If your printing is bigger more diference you will get.\n\n2.- Misalignment, your printer is not angled correctly to 90° and also Z axe if has the same condition. with this uncalibrated parameter are you going to have pisa towers on every tall part. \nFor delta Printers this not apply\n\n3.- Tension. Your belts are a little weak; avoid weak tension band to eliminate something called backslash, of course this is for screw parts but is the same efect and even bigger. Also you will get an accurate dimension of the parts.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4643,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,PiGuy88,2.1782824847157594,4.694568732244336,0.0,5.199501240805782,2.3655567426522146,1.8301919300004668,\"What is causing this \"\"ribbed\"\" texture on my circular prints?\",\"I am having this problem with my printer. It doesn't print smooth circular objects. The objects are typically \"\"ribbed\"\" or ridged... never smooth. I am not sure how to fix this.\n\nI have tried fixing it in Meshmixer, I've tried Sli3r (I normally use Cura 2.7). I've tried turning down acceleration as low as it will go (500 in my printer's case), tried slowing down the actual print and travel speeds. Short of just replacing the dang thing (not an option at all), I have no idea what to do... I'm at a total loss for words here.\n\nMy printer is a TronXY P802MA. Auto Level, runs Marlin firmware. I use Octoprint as my print server. The picture shows the odd texture. It's at the bottom of this particular model. For some reason, within the pictured model, the problem isn't reproduced in the partial spheres.\n\n\n\",Senthil J Prakash,\"When you are saving a CAD file to STL format to print, there are options on resolution. Coarse and Fine. Basically coarse would give that ribbed/flats effect.\n\nI am not sure what CAD package its created but normally all the CAD packages allow the user to specify the deviation about from a design curve.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4643,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,PiGuy88,2.1782824847157594,4.694568732244336,0.0,5.199501240805782,2.3655567426522146,1.8301919300004668,\"What is causing this \"\"ribbed\"\" texture on my circular prints?\",\"I am having this problem with my printer. It doesn't print smooth circular objects. The objects are typically \"\"ribbed\"\" or ridged... never smooth. I am not sure how to fix this.\n\nI have tried fixing it in Meshmixer, I've tried Sli3r (I normally use Cura 2.7). I've tried turning down acceleration as low as it will go (500 in my printer's case), tried slowing down the actual print and travel speeds. Short of just replacing the dang thing (not an option at all), I have no idea what to do... I'm at a total loss for words here.\n\nMy printer is a TronXY P802MA. Auto Level, runs Marlin firmware. I use Octoprint as my print server. The picture shows the odd texture. It's at the bottom of this particular model. For some reason, within the pictured model, the problem isn't reproduced in the partial spheres.\n\n\n\",PiGuy88,\"Thank you all for your valuable input. I have come to find out that the issue was because of a host of movement related issues. \n\n\nPrint speed is too fast. I have since reduced it. \nThere were some firmware related settings that needed adjusting. \n\n\nI found after making the appropriate changes, my circular prints came out beautifully!\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4647,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joe Healey,2.528907649931287,4.162536107399809,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,commandline remeshing and simplifying tools,\"I'm currently trying to remesh and simplify some protein structure models (very large) to reduce the file size of the STLs I need to print from.\n\nThe raw file before manipulation is ~4.9GB.\n\nI'm currently attempting this on my home PC (16GB Ram, AMD FX9590, dual RX480s - so no slouch by any stretch) but I'm currently watching the progress (which isn't fast), and the RAM usage is worryingly close to 16GB now, with about 40% of the calculation still to go.\n\nI'm using MeshLab's Quadratic Edge Collapse Decimation, to drop down by about 60% since there are a lot of redundance internal vertices etc and the print will already be quite difficult even with a small number of faces.\n\nIf my PC ends up not being able to handle this, does anyone know of any good commandline tools for Unix that I could use on one of my servers to handle remeshing and simplification, where I have considerably more ram and CPU power available.\n\nFirst post on this SE, so apologies if this belongs somewhere different.\n\",Greenonline,\"Netfabb came up in a number of suggestions that I found. Take a look at 3D Printing Under Arch Linux, which offers a number of solutions for Linux, including:\n\n\nOpenSCAD\nFreeCAD\nBlender\nNetFabb\nSlic3r\n\n\nNetfabb\n\nTaking the section on Netfabb:\n\n\n netfabb Private will provide you with a fully-loaded tool-box to do all this and much more:\n \n \n fix complicated file errors\n make late design changes\n combine parts into one\n hollow out solid parts into a shell\n smooth the mesh to improve surfaces\n reduce file size\n \n\n\nInstalling it:\n\n\n netfabb is not at official repository so you must install it from AUR\n using yaourt\n\n$ yaourt netfabb-basic\n$ netfabb-basic\n\n\n\nHowever, it is unclear as to whether there is a cmd line interface. It could be worth reading Problem in Netfabb Command Line execution and in particular the documentation on Automating Netfabb - although this seems to suggest that command line functionality is only available to users with Ultimate subscription and not Basic:\n\n\n \n\n\nFrom Reducing Size of STL file to upload to shapeways, this post (#10) states:\n\n\n You can also decimate the model in Netfabb easily - Right click > Level of Detail > Choose something like 50%... or more or less depending on the level of detail needed.\n\n\nAlthough, this isn't available in Basic subscription, or so says post #12.\n\n\n\nMeshmixer\n\nI also came across this, non-command line option.\n\nFrom How to Reduce the File Size of .STL and .OBJ 3D Models\n\n\n For example, you can give the free 3D modeling program Meshmixer a try. Choose the ‘Select’ tool from the menu on the right, then double-click on your model (this will select your entire mesh). Then click on the ‘Edit…’ option and select ‘Reduce’.\n \n You can now reduce the polygon count using several options. The best working choice is to use the percentage tool. It will immediately tell you by how much percent your file size (and polygon count) has been reduced.\n\n\nAvailable for Windows and OSX.\n\nFrom Reducing Size of STL file to upload to shapeways, this post (#8) states:\n\n\n The meshlab tutorial is exactly what you want to do - the options described help preserve the overall geometry of the model while reducing the poly count. Start with a target of 150,000 polys and work up until the desired detail is retained, bearing in mind the printability I mentioned above.\n\n\nAlso, by way of Quora, How do I reduce the size of an STL file? Does it affect the CAD coordinates for 3D printing?, I also found this Meshmixer tutorial: Easy Guide on How to Repair Your .STL Files. Under the section Problem 4: File Size is too Large for 3D Printing are the following steps:\n\n\n The last problem that you may stumble upon, particularly as your\n objects get larger and their complexity increases, is that the\n resulting .stl file size is too large for your 3D printer or 3D\n printing service of choice. Third party printing services like\n i.materialise or Shapeways have upload limits so you may have to\n change the size of your file (100 MB limit at imaterialise and 64 MB for\n Shapeways). It’s important to reduce the mesh without sacrificing the\n quality, which I should say at the outset is best done at the initial\n export from your CAD software to minimise any distortion. My number one quick\n tip is to make sure in the export settings that your saving in\n ‘Binary’ format, not ‘ASCII’ – it’s a significantly more compact file\n format for .stl’s without losing quality). However if it’s not an\n option, Meshmixer can be really useful to quickly reduce file size and\n visualise how this will affect the quality of your surfaces.\n \n For this example I’m going to return to the leaf from Problem 1, which\n as a .stl file is 30.757 MB – pretty large for such a small design and\n definitely over the limit for someone’s email if I wanted to send it.\n So let’s look at how we can get this under 10 MB.\n \n \n Select the entire model by pressing Ctrl + A on your keyboard to select all.\n Go to Edit>Reduce to bring up the options to reduce the mesh. Essentially the file size of a .stl is directly related to the number\n of polygons (triangles) that make up all of the surfaces. We will use\n the Reduce tool to reduce the quantity of polygons, therefore reducing\n file size.\n The menu will give you a range of options to reduce the size of your file. The simplest is to use the default Percentage option,\n allowing you to determine the final file size you want rather than\n needing to know exactly how many triangles will be used to make up the\n file. In this case I have calculated that in order to get my original\n .stl file below 10 MB, I need a reduction of 70 % or more. As you\n adjust the values, you will get a preview of what your model will look\n like, allowing you to control how much reduction you employ before the\n model becomes too distorted and ‘pixelated.’\n \n \n \n \n \n Once you’re happy and have accepted the changes, you can click on the Export button or go to File>Export to save this new reduced .stl\n file. As you can see in the comparison below, there is almost no\n perceptible difference in the quality of the 30.757 MB file compared\n with the final reduced version at 9.362 MB. I have simply increased the\n size of the triangles, minimising the quantity needed to create the\n same volume. Your regular 3D printer, or even a highly accurate SLS\n printer will never even know the difference in a change like this.\n It’s only if you really go crazy with the file reduction that you\n might start to notice them in your final print (and in fact many of\n the low-poly models which are popular on Pinshape can be produced\n using this technique – start with a detailed .stl of the object you\n want, and then just keep reducing the number of triangles!).\n \n \n \n\n\nBlender\n\nFrom Reducing Size of STL file to upload to shapeways, this post (#8) states:\n\n\n Another option is to import the model into Blender, then use the Remesh or Decimate modifiers. Blender can be tough to get into initially but there are plenty of introduction tutorials on YouTube to help.\n\n\nBlender does offer a Command Line Interface (CLI), see Command Line Arguments:\n\nUsage: blender [args …] [file] [args …]\n\n\nHowever, there doesn't appear to be an option for Remesh or Decimate. Although take a look at Is it possible to decimate or remesh via the CLI?:\n\n\n You can specify a Python script to run, see the Python Options section of the documentation you linked. In this script, you can import the model, add the modifiers, apply them and export the result. \n\n\nRelated - Is it possible to automatically simplify geometry in blender without losing object shape?, which has this comment:\n\n\n Is there a way to execute this modifier from command line and export the result? \n\n\nwhich then leads to Can modifiers be computed and applied from the command line?\n\n\n You'd have to use bpy.ops.object.modifier_apply, e.g.\n\nimport bpy\n\nfor obj in bpy.context.scene.objects:\n bpy.context.scene.objects.active = obj\n count = 1\n length = len(obj.modifiers)\n while obj.modifiers:\n name = obj.modifiers[0].name\n print(\"\"%s: Applying %s (%d/%d)\"\" % (obj, name, count, length))\n bpy.ops.object.modifier_apply(modifier=name)\n count += 1\nprint(\"\"All done.\"\")\n\n \n For info on how to to run the above, see here.\n\n\nMeshlab\n\nSeeing as you are already using Meshlab, it might be worth reading Executing meshlab from commandline reduce faces of a mesh iteratively (awesomebytes/reduce_faces.py)\n\n#!/usr/bin/env python\n\nimport sys\nimport os\nimport subprocess\n\n# Script taken from doing the needed operation\n# (Filters > Remeshing, Simplification and Reconstruction >\n# Quadric Edge Collapse Decimation, with parameters:\n# 0.9 percentage reduction (10%), 0.3 Quality threshold (70%)\n# Target number of faces is ignored with those parameters\n# conserving face normals, planar simplification and\n# post-simplimfication cleaning)\n# And going to Filter > Show current filter script\nfilter_script_mlx = \"\"\"\"\"\"<!DOCTYPE FilterScript>\n<FilterScript>\n <filter name=\"\"Quadric Edge Collapse Decimation\"\">\n <Param type=\"\"RichInt\"\" value=\"\"1448\"\" name=\"\"TargetFaceNum\"\"/>\n <Param type=\"\"RichFloat\"\" value=\"\"0.9\"\" name=\"\"TargetPerc\"\"/>\n <Param type=\"\"RichFloat\"\" value=\"\"0.3\"\" name=\"\"QualityThr\"\"/>\n <Param type=\"\"RichBool\"\" value=\"\"false\"\" name=\"\"PreserveBoundary\"\"/>\n <Param type=\"\"RichFloat\"\" value=\"\"1\"\" name=\"\"BoundaryWeight\"\"/>\n <Param type=\"\"RichBool\"\" value=\"\"true\"\" name=\"\"PreserveNormal\"\"/>\n <Param type=\"\"RichBool\"\" value=\"\"false\"\" name=\"\"PreserveTopology\"\"/>\n <Param type=\"\"RichBool\"\" value=\"\"false\"\" name=\"\"OptimalPlacement\"\"/>\n <Param type=\"\"RichBool\"\" value=\"\"true\"\" name=\"\"PlanarQuadric\"\"/>\n <Param type=\"\"RichBool\"\" value=\"\"false\"\" name=\"\"QualityWeight\"\"/>\n <Param type=\"\"RichBool\"\" value=\"\"true\"\" name=\"\"AutoClean\"\"/>\n <Param type=\"\"RichBool\"\" value=\"\"false\"\" name=\"\"Selected\"\"/>\n </filter>\n</FilterScript>\n\"\"\"\"\"\"\n\n\ndef create_tmp_filter_file(filename='filter_file_tmp.mlx'):\n with open('/tmp/' + filename, 'w') as f:\n f.write(filter_script_mlx)\n return '/tmp/' + filename\n\n\ndef reduce_faces(in_file, out_file,\n filter_script_path=create_tmp_filter_file()):\n # Add input mesh\n command = \"\"meshlabserver -i \"\" + in_file\n # Add the filter script\n command += \"\" -s \"\" + filter_script_path\n # Add the output filename and output flags\n command += \"\" -o \"\" + out_file + \"\" -om vn fn\"\"\n # Execute command\n print \"\"Going to execute: \"\" + command\n output = subprocess.check_output(command, shell=True)\n last_line = output.splitlines()[-1]\n print\n print \"\"Done:\"\"\n print in_file + \"\" > \"\" + out_file + \"\": \"\" + last_line\n\n\nif __name__ == '__main__':\n if len(sys.argv) < 3:\n print \"\"Usage:\"\"\n print sys.argv[0] + \"\" /path/to/input_mesh num_iterations\"\"\n print \"\"For example, reduce 10 times:\"\"\n print sys.argv[0] + \"\" /home/myuser/mymesh.dae 10\"\"\n exit(0)\n\n in_mesh = sys.argv[1]\n filename = in_mesh.split('/')[-1]\n num_iterations = int(sys.argv[2])\n\n folder_name = filename.replace('.', '_')\n tmp_folder_name = '/tmp/' + folder_name + '_meshes/'\n\n print \"\"Input mesh: \"\" + in_mesh + \"\" (filename: \"\" + filename + \"\")\"\"\n print \"\"Num iterations: \"\" + str(num_iterations)\n print \"\"Output folder: \"\" + tmp_folder_name\n try:\n os.mkdir(tmp_folder_name)\n except OSError as e:\n print >> sys.stderr, \"\"Exception creating folder for meshes: \"\" + str(e)\n exit(0)\n for it in range(1, num_iterations):\n if it == 1:\n out_mesh = tmp_folder_name + folder_name + \"\"_it\"\" + str(it) + \"\".dae\"\"\n reduce_faces(in_mesh, out_mesh)\n else:\n out_mesh = tmp_folder_name + folder_name + \"\"_it\"\" + str(it) + \"\".dae\"\"\n reduce_faces(last_out_mesh, out_mesh)\n last_out_mesh = out_mesh\n\n print\nprint \"\"Done reducing, find the files at: \"\" + tmp_folder_name\n\n\nAlso\n\n\n here are some updates for python 3.6.2: https://gist.github.com/tylerlindell/7435ca2261e7c404ccc1241f18e483aa\n\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n4652,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Slobodan Vidovic,2.528907649931287,4.689523269489674,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Best 32 bit electronics for delta?,\"I'm looking to update my Delta printer's electronics from 8-bit to 32-bit.\n\nSo I checked Marlin and found out that they working on a project they call it Re-ARM and as far as I can tell they will support few chip-sets - I can't remember which one, so until when that happens I need to use something else but what? \n\nI need it to be open source but the Smoothieboard (original one) is too expensive. I saw MKS SBASE but they are closed-source. There is also the MKS GEN version of it but again it uses an ATmega2560. Is there solution for now for my problem until 32-bit Marlin reaches test phase ?\n\",Greenonline,\"Note that I am not stating this as the best 32 bit solution, as that is too subjective. Although you might want to read Recommendations for a good 32 bit microprocessor to run Marlin, which I cover in On which board can 32 bit Marlin run?\n\n\n\nSo, to clarify, yes, while the MKS-BASE is based on the 8 bit ATmega2560, the MKS-SBASE is powered by 32 bit ARM, 100M Cortex-MS MCU-LPC1768.\n\nAnyway, SmoothieWare can indeed run on MKS-SBASE. There is an extensive guide on Instructables - Configuring MKS SBASE V1.X 32-bit controller basics and into to SmoothieWare.\n\nYou first need the drivers (for Windows). Plug in the MKS-SBASE board and then install the driver.\n\n\n Connecting USB\n \n Plug in USB to the board and look at the LEDs at the upper left\n corner. Immediately the D7 led lights up. After a bit D1 also\n starts lightning while D2 and D3 blinks rapidly.\n \n Open device manager and update drivers for the new Smoothie/Serial USB\n device with the signed drivers you just downloaded from Github located\n in the easy to find folder:\n \\MKS-SBASE\\MKS-SBASE\\Driver\\smoothieware-windows-signeddriver-v1.0\n\n\nThen to install the firmware:\n\n\n Installing firmware\n \n \n Firmware from MKS are just and old copy of Smoothieware, so we always just want to use the newest version from Smoothieware.\n \n \n In other words: always use firmware from Smoothieware.\n If you can't find config.txt file from original Smoothieware, just use the one from MKS.\n \n Download official firmware from Smoothieware's firmware page which is a subpage on their own Github page (you might want to\n download their full Github repository (folder) in order to find their\n config.txt file)\n \n \n Start by using the Stable version. When everything is working fine, you can use the Nightly version instead. It is the newest\n version, but not fully tested yet, and considered as beta/test.\n \n Insert the SD Card into the MKS Sbase board and plug in the USB Cable. Your SD Card is now going to show in your file-Explorer.\n \n \n If not, you need to make sure you have the Drivers installed.\n \n If you can't find the config.txt file from Smoothieware, just locate the config.txt in \\MKS\n Sbase\\MKS-SBASE-master\\MKSSBase-firmware and copy it to your SD Card.\n \n \n Smoothieware suggest disabling auto-Mount on the SD when connecting to USB. Especially when using a Mac, as OSX tends to do\n funky stuff at strange times.\n I have changed nothing on my Win10. And nothing bad has happened the past year.\n \n The D7 lights up, shortly after D1 follows. D2, D3, D4 blinks and then D4 turns steady while D2 and D3 continues blinking.\n \n \n At this point, the firmware.bin had changed to firmware.cur file on the SD card\n \n After successful updated, the file name will turn into firmware.cur.\n \n \n Changing or Updating firmware\n \n Just delete the firmware.cur file from your SD, or rename to\n firmware.cur.old or similar, and copy on the new firmware.bin file\n to your SD. Powercycle your printer (also unplug USB) and you can see\n your new firmware.cur file on your SD card.\n \n Note: After making any changes to your config.txt file in the future, you need to power-cycle your controller, meaning disconnect\n both power (if in use) and USB. You can send a reset command, but only\n through true terminal use and not through Printrun/Pronterface or\n similar.\n\n\nThe guide, as stated above is extremely detailed, and goes on to explain all of the other aspects. The contents are as follows:\n\n\n Table Of Contents:\n \n \n Connect and install\n \n \n Connecting USB\n Installing firmware\n \n Configuring Smoothieware compared to Marlin\n Obvious difference from Marlin\n \n \n Less obvious differneces\n Firmware and Config file(s)\n Configuring firmware\n Comments\n \n Firmware Step 1: Default feed rate\n \n \n 1/32 Multistepping\n Connecting Motors\n External Motor Controllers\n \n Firmware Step 2: Cartesian axis speed limits, pins and current\n \n \n Pins\n Current\n \n Firmware Step 3: LCD, SD and Extruder\n \n \n LCD and SD\n Extruder Setup\n Delta driver current\n \n Firmware Step 4: Hotend temperature control configuration\n \n \n Thermistor Type\n PID Tuning\n Hotend Thermistor - Physical Layout\n Hotend Heater Pins - Physical Layout\n \n Firmware Step 5: Heated bed temperature control configuration\n \n \n Thermistor Type\n Temperature Control Bed BANG-BANG\n Heated bed thermistor - Physical Layout\n Heated bed heater pins - Physical Layout\n \n Firmware Step 6: Configuring Endstops\n \n \n Homing direction\n Disable unused endstops\n Define axes size\n Reversing endstop output\n Fast and slow homing rates\n \n Firmware step 7: Network Settings\n Step 8: What's next?\n \n \n More advanced setup?\n Using Switches\n \n \n\n\nAs there is way to much to cover here, please visit the Instructables page for the complete guide, in order to complete the configuration.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4655,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Slobodan Vidovic,2.8153892694839717,6.165866567123598,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,On which board can 32 bit Marlin run?,\"Does anyone know on which board that can be bought today is possible to run current Marlin x32 ?\n\",Greenonline,\"The platformio.ini file, given in Zac's comment, does not seem to list all of the boards supported.\n\nHowever, The Marlin 2.0 32-bit thread appears to have a table that is much more complete (at the time of writing):\n\nBoard MCU State To-Do\nRAMPS, etc. Arduino AVR good \nDue, RAMPS FD (v2.A!), etc. SAM3X8E good \nArchim 1.0 SAM3X8E ❓unknown Only US$170!\nArchim 2.0 SAM3X8E beta needs confirmation\nRe-ARM LPC1768 beta NEOPIXEL_LED,M100,ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS,Tones,etc.\nMKS-SBASE LPC1768 beta NEOPIXEL_LED,M100,Tones, etc.\nSmoothieboard LPC1769 beta NEOPIXEL_LED,M100,Tones, etc.\nAzteeg X5 GT LPC1769 beta NEOPIXEL_LED,M100,Tones, etc.\nCohesion3D Remix LPC1769 beta NEOPIXEL_LED,M100,Tones, etc.\nSelena Compact LPC1768 beta NEOPIXEL_LED,M100,Tones, etc.\nMalyan M200 STM32F103C8 beta EMERGENCY_PARSER,NEOPIXEL_LED, etc.\nBorg STM32F765ZGT6 ⚠️beta EMERGENCY_PARSER,NEOPIXEL_LED, etc.\nChitu3D V3.9 STM32F103ZET6 alpha EMERGENCY_PARSER,NEOPIXEL_LED, LCD, SDCard, MAX6675, etc.\nTeensy 3.5 MK64FX alpha (need shields)\nTeensy 3.6 MK66FX alpha (need shields)\nSTEVAL-3DP001V1 STM32F401VE alpha (need boards)\n\n\nFrom [Question] Most promising 32 Bit Platform for Marlin 2.x\n\n\n The reference platform IS Re-Arm with a RAMPS shield. You can find instructions for both obtaining it and getting setup with it at #7076\n\n\nIt appears the you have to use the bugfix branch:\n\n\n Right now, there are two branches. Bugfix-v1.1.x and Bugfix-v2.0.0. They are almost identical from a feature set perspective. But Bugfix-v2.0.0 is modified to have a hierarchical file layout. That was needed to clean up the code and to support 32-bit.\n \n The AVR code is fully debugged and working in both branches. The 32-bit code only exists (and works) in the Bugfix-v2.0.0 branch. And while the code does work... And some people are using it to print, it isn't entirely painless to get to that point.\n\n\nYou may also want to read Recommendations for a good 32 bit microprocessor to run Marlin. To list a few examples:\n\n\nAtmel ATSAM3x8e on the Due board\nAnyhow, there are a lot of 32bit Controller. Take a look at mbed.org for example.\nYou can use the arm-none-eabi-xxx for STM32, LPC, also the Arduino Due use it\nDuet board (now called DuetWifi) is available for pre-order. It has a 120MHz Cortex M4 with hardware FPU\nAZSMZ ARM 32bit controller board\nRedBear: https://redbearlab.github.io/arduino/package_redbear_index.json\n\n\nRedBear Duo (Cortex-M3, WiFi + BLE)\nRedBear discussion forum\n\nKonekt Dash/DashPro (Official): http://downloads.konekt.io/arduino/package_konekt_index.json\n\n\nCortex M4-based global cellular dev kits, support for all board variants, support for USB and over-the-air programming straight from within Arduino IDE\n\n\n\nAnother link that might be useful is Unofficial list of 3rd party boards support urls, although not all of these are 32 bit.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n4747,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Slobodan Vidovic,1.726248027126092,4.330699985605404,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,How to draw kossel delta corner in fusion 360?,\"I want to draw kossel delta corner in fusion 360 for 2040 aluminium extrusion like on picture below, but cant find a way to actualy start, I draw 3 side polygon and 20x40mm rectangle but cant go from there, so do you have any suggestion?\n\n\n\",fred_dot_u,\"I attempted to create your drawing but discovered that an important set of parameters is missing. You have to have either the intersection point of the legs (73.34) from each side or the angle between the legs (73.34) and the base (106.41) to create construction lines. Once you have either of those items, you can construct the remainder of the design using offsets, radii, etc. \n\nMore accurately, one other missing item that would be required to complete this design is the placement of the holes at the top (12) relative to some other feature of the design.\n\nHaving taken on the challenge of your drawing, I've found that it is necessary to surrender. The angles or the intersection point are critical and without them, no solution comes to my alleged mind.\n\nI have also discovered one additional datum missing. The distance of the bottom truss and the thickness of this truss would be required to provide a more certain solution.\n\nOne the flip side, I've found alpha-tech3d.com which appears to include similar parts, rotated 180° with what appears to have all of the necessary data.\n\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4747,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Slobodan Vidovic,1.726248027126092,4.330699985605404,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,How to draw kossel delta corner in fusion 360?,\"I want to draw kossel delta corner in fusion 360 for 2040 aluminium extrusion like on picture below, but cant find a way to actualy start, I draw 3 side polygon and 20x40mm rectangle but cant go from there, so do you have any suggestion?\n\n\n\",CarvedBlock,\"I love me a challenge so I just hacked this together: (a half waiting for mirror)\n\nAs for strategy, I simply used the line tool to do a basic shape and then went to town with constraints and dimensions to see what I end up with. Can't fail. \n\nClearly, you're missing information to constraint the sketch fully, but if you have the extrusions and the machine, you could just print a few tests to guess the missing values. \n\n(Like precise position of the circles, of the 20x40 rectangle...)\n\nYou can download/ view my fusion model here: \nhttp://a360.co/2gJsdxB \n\nGood luck. \n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4660,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Donnie Plumly,2.8153892694839717,5.098669690993739,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Alunar m508 Firmware,\"I have a Alunar M508 machine that I am trying to get new firmware on. The firmware that was loaded on the machine wasn't very good. The x axis was mirrored and the home point was way off. I was looking into Marlin to put on the machine, but don't have any experience on what to edit in the code to make it work for this machine. \n\nDoes anyone have any experience with this machine? Uploading new firmware that works or editing the code to make it work for this machine. I appreciate any help!\n\nHere is a link to the firmware I am currently using. I'm on MacOS Sierra 10.12.5 using the 1.6.8 Arduino IDE.\n\",Ryan Conrad,\"disclaimer: I am the maintainer of the firmware that you linked. \n\n\n\nThe firmware will not improve your print quality. well, it may to some extent, but for the most part, it wont. \n\nThere is fine tuning involved that may be set for MY printer, but the values may need to be changed for you. Not to mention the physical tuning that I have done with my printer. Software is not the place to initially look for print quality improvements.\n\nSome examples:\n\nI printed anti-wobble caps for the Z-axis rods. Which improved the print drastically for me. As the print got higher, the quality got worse.\n\nI printed Z-stop improvements, so I could fine tune the Z-stop.\n\nI printed X & Y belt tensioners. Loose belts cause skipped steps which causes poor quality prints. \n\",0.0,0.0\n4660,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Donnie Plumly,2.8153892694839717,5.098669690993739,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Alunar m508 Firmware,\"I have a Alunar M508 machine that I am trying to get new firmware on. The firmware that was loaded on the machine wasn't very good. The x axis was mirrored and the home point was way off. I was looking into Marlin to put on the machine, but don't have any experience on what to edit in the code to make it work for this machine. \n\nDoes anyone have any experience with this machine? Uploading new firmware that works or editing the code to make it work for this machine. I appreciate any help!\n\nHere is a link to the firmware I am currently using. I'm on MacOS Sierra 10.12.5 using the 1.6.8 Arduino IDE.\n\",0scar,\"The Alunar firmware you linked is a fork from the main Marlin firmware. If the bed Y direction is reversed, usually the stepper is incorrectly placed (mirrored) this is seen frequently for the Anet A8 printer which is very similar to your printer. In your case the X direction is wrong, this is usually related to the wiring of the stepper, reversing the connector by 180 degrees should do the trick (hardware solution). As a software solution, changing direction is not difficult in Marlin based firmware; you just want to invert the stepper direction; the following section in the configuration.h file does that for you:\n\n// Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way.\n#define INVERT_X_DIR false\n#define INVERT_Y_DIR false\n#define INVERT_Z_DIR true\n\n\nJust change INVERT_X_DIR to true.\n\nIf your home position is still not working for you, you should look into this section of the same configuration file:\n\n// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.\n#define X_MIN_POS -33\n#define Y_MIN_POS -10\n#define Z_MIN_POS 0\n#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE\n#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE\n#define Z_MAX_POS 240\n\n\nChange the MIN_POS positions as such that it starts at the corner of the bed. A more in depth bed center calibration tutorial can be found here.\n\n\n\nP.S. Please do not print anti-wobble caps for the Z-axis rods (as mentioned in another answer), these are not reducing the wobble, in fact they cause problems. What happens if you constrain the top is that you get a statically indeterminate construction; forces and displacements are not predictable! Better solutions to eliminate Z-wobble are lifting devices that decouple X/Y movement from the threaded rod (eccentricity of the threaded rod) from the Z movement. Also fixate the threaded rod above the springy stepper-to-threaded-rod coupler.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4664,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Matthew,2.8153892694839717,5.0270052460785,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,How should I go about printing easily removable rafts?,\"I have had a 3d printer for a while now, and I have a lot of the quality settings dialed in pretty well, but one thing that constantly bugs me is removing the raft from my finished prints. I am using Repetier and I have set the air gap to 0.2 mm. That led to much better results than the default 0, which were impossible to remove at all, but it is still not great. Are there any settings I should look at changing to get easier to remove rafts? Does the filament affect this? I am printing in Hatchbox PLA at high temps. I have a heated bed, and reducing the temp on that did seem to help. Maybe it keeps the layers on the raft from fusing with the layers on the part? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.\n\",user802599,\"I have been able to get rafts that peel off by editing the g-code after the raft has finished and adding an M104 set temperature command telling my printer to cool the nozzle down to about 40 degrees and then another M104 command to tell the nozzle to heat back up again. This gives the raft enough time to cool and then the raft doesn't weld to the rest of the print. If you are using a heated bed I would suggest trying the M190 command and turning that off after the raft and then back on after the first layer as well. \n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4664,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Matthew,2.8153892694839717,5.0270052460785,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,How should I go about printing easily removable rafts?,\"I have had a 3d printer for a while now, and I have a lot of the quality settings dialed in pretty well, but one thing that constantly bugs me is removing the raft from my finished prints. I am using Repetier and I have set the air gap to 0.2 mm. That led to much better results than the default 0, which were impossible to remove at all, but it is still not great. Are there any settings I should look at changing to get easier to remove rafts? Does the filament affect this? I am printing in Hatchbox PLA at high temps. I have a heated bed, and reducing the temp on that did seem to help. Maybe it keeps the layers on the raft from fusing with the layers on the part? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"As comments suggest, a raft is not all that popular. Consider using a brim/skirt instead. I've had excellent luck with a 4-mm skirt, printing onto blue painter's tape. (Unless you consider it bad luck when I have a devil of a time getting some parts to release :-) ). Skirts are trivial to cut free from the object.\n\nIn a similar vein, if you run into trouble getting support structures to pop off the object cleanly, try to make them as thin-walled as possible. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4666,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Leroy105,2.528907649931287,3.5067276254879127,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Printed 2 Sided Object?,\"Apologies, I'm a EE designer and software guy. We've been CNC'ing prototypes, and my office just bought a very cheap 3D printer.\n\nI'm using Cura as recomended, and wanted to print a piece that has features on both sides.\n\nHere is a screenshot of each side.\n\nSo if you laid one side flat, you see how there is a subtractive portion underneath it?\n\nIs there a way to 3D print an object like this, and keep the details on each side?\n\nUPDATE\nI copied some Cura settings from guys and basically tipped this thing to a 45 degree. Here are the results. Pretty good! The finish has some zits and pops, but the surface details are quite accurate enough to fit a PCB board in there with confidence.\n\n\n\",Mick,\"I haven't tried printing anything like that, but one trick is to print the piece at an angle of 45°, so as to minimise the number of surfaces that are horizontal (or near horizontal.) You will still need some supports, but far less than if you just plonked it flat on the build plate. My only other recommendation would be to use a slicer that allows you to define custom supports, such as Simplify 3D or CraftWare (but still print the piece at an angle).\n\nYou might even be able to print it on a raft/brim with no supports. I've seen other 3D'ers pull this off.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4666,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Leroy105,2.528907649931287,3.5067276254879127,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Printed 2 Sided Object?,\"Apologies, I'm a EE designer and software guy. We've been CNC'ing prototypes, and my office just bought a very cheap 3D printer.\n\nI'm using Cura as recomended, and wanted to print a piece that has features on both sides.\n\nHere is a screenshot of each side.\n\nSo if you laid one side flat, you see how there is a subtractive portion underneath it?\n\nIs there a way to 3D print an object like this, and keep the details on each side?\n\nUPDATE\nI copied some Cura settings from guys and basically tipped this thing to a 45 degree. Here are the results. Pretty good! The finish has some zits and pops, but the surface details are quite accurate enough to fit a PCB board in there with confidence.\n\n\n\",Onno,\"You can print it laying flat on the bed with supports. It will be very laborious to clean up, but it will probably work. supports usually are thin enough to strip away, but they leave marks which you need to cut off to get a clean result.\n\nYou can also buy a printer with dual extruders and then use dissolvable supports. That would probably be easier to clean up and provide a cleaner result.\n\nIf you're using PLA to print, you might get away with turning up the part cooling fan to the maximum level and hope for the best. Overhangs are very much prone to dropping though. I'm not sure if a stock MP Select mini will get the job done. You might want to consider an upgrade to the part cooling fan. You can look for fan duct related upgrades which allow you to mount bigger fans on Thingiverse\n\nWith PETG you can possibly get away with longer overhangs, as it cools quicker. However, PETG is much harder to print well, as it's much more prone to stringing, which can cause issues like artifacts and clogging.\n\nAll in all I'd start out with getting a good benchy before you start on engineering projects. This will make sure that you have your printer calibrated to perform for your chosen filament. Every brand and type has their own quirks and differences, so you'll have to fine tune your settings to get the best result.\n\nA CNC-like finish will not be easy to achieve. A CNC type finish will be unachievable without extensive post processing if you're using supports. In any case, getting a good finish requires some practice with finding the right settings for your filament.\n\nLearn how to print and to get your printer dialled in to achieve the required result, which, in the case of it having to be CNC-like, is quite high-end. The fact you're laying down filament means that you'll be able to see lines, even at top quality. Maybe this guide will help you get on your way.\n\nGetting a $1000 printer mainly inproves reliability of the print. The quality of the print is in the skill of dialling in the right settings in your slicer for a given filament choice, plus recognising the type of supports necessary. This takes practice to achieve.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4678,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Leroy105,2.1782824847157594,3.6260512276357146,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Filament Cost vs. Quality?,\"I'm a 3D printing newbie, and I bought some Hatchbox PLA to start with since it is recommended by the community it seems. \n\nIs there really a steep quality drop off if you go for brands that are 50% less than Hatchbox? What does that quality drop off look like?\n\",Markus Appel,\"In addition to @TecTec3's answer:\n\nParameters that define filament quality:\n\n\nDiameter variance: If there is too much fluctuation in diameter, the filament might get stuck.\nMaterial Quality: I had really expensive filament that was brittle and did tend to snap when it was extruded. Other filament just didn't melt but started burning up and regulary clogging my extruder.\n\n\nMy opinion:\n\nI'd say you shouldn't go with too cheap filament and stick with one that works out best for you. If you have issues try another brand. It's impossible to tell quality just from the price.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4678,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Leroy105,2.1782824847157594,3.6260512276357146,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Filament Cost vs. Quality?,\"I'm a 3D printing newbie, and I bought some Hatchbox PLA to start with since it is recommended by the community it seems. \n\nIs there really a steep quality drop off if you go for brands that are 50% less than Hatchbox? What does that quality drop off look like?\n\",TECTEC3 Studios,\"There is no massive difference in print quality of PLA filaments unless you start going under 10 dollars US for a 1 kilo spool. The filament that I use is yoyi PLA that can be found on Amazon for about 20 bucks, this filament works really nice with my printer and it is fairly cheap. Just make sure you never use the hobby king brand PLS as the quality on that truly is horrendous.\n\",0.0,0.0\n4672,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Rob,1.726248027126092,3.5148268665696674,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Designing back plate for Ring Doorbell,\"What is a good tool to use to design a back plate for a Ring Doorbell? The shape will essentially be a wedge shape, tilting the doorbell to the side and down a bit. I'll need to iterate over a few prints, so want to be able to tweak it as I go.\n\nI've found TinkerCAD doesn't let me adjust shape sizes, stretching one axis but not the other.\n\",Harly H.,\"If you wannwa go fully parametric, use OpenSCAD. Or you can use Autodesk Fusion 360 (which is free for non-commercial use)\n\",0.0,0.0\n4677,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ram Rachum,2.1782824847157594,3.8489531999933395,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Solidworks: Coincident or interfering geometry when saving assembly to STL,\"I'm using Solidworks to design parts to be 3d-printed.\n\nI've noticed that if I'm making an assembly, where one part has features that touch other parts, then when I try to save that assembly as an STL for printing, I'll get a dialog from Solidworks saying \"\"This assembly has coincident or interfering geometry that may be unsuitable for some rapid prototyping systems.\"\" If I save it, then this STL later causes problems when trying to print it. \n\nWhat can I do? I'd like to be able to print my assemblies.\n\nHere is a very simple example assembly where you can see this phenomenon. Part 1 is just a simple cube, and part 2 is another simple cube that is flush with part 1.\n\",ZuOverture,\"Solidworks has means for detection and eradication of these errors. If there's unwanted intersection, then you can either separate the parts or merge them (by saving assembly as a part). If you work with SLDPRTs, then use mating options correctly, avoid manual mating, make sure that the design of your components actually allows them to mate without intersections and you'll have no problems. If you work with parts that are loaded from STLs though, then you'll probably have a lot of these errors when trying to align parts. Solidworks can't work smoothly with STL models, alas, you'll need some other tool, MeshLab or something.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4677,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ram Rachum,2.1782824847157594,3.8489531999933395,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Solidworks: Coincident or interfering geometry when saving assembly to STL,\"I'm using Solidworks to design parts to be 3d-printed.\n\nI've noticed that if I'm making an assembly, where one part has features that touch other parts, then when I try to save that assembly as an STL for printing, I'll get a dialog from Solidworks saying \"\"This assembly has coincident or interfering geometry that may be unsuitable for some rapid prototyping systems.\"\" If I save it, then this STL later causes problems when trying to print it. \n\nWhat can I do? I'd like to be able to print my assemblies.\n\nHere is a very simple example assembly where you can see this phenomenon. Part 1 is just a simple cube, and part 2 is another simple cube that is flush with part 1.\n\",joshkmartinez,\"When saving assembly as part, do not use the save external faces option. Exterior components is best option to use to try an aviod these problems.\n\nbtw I dont have soldiworks, this is just some reseacrch I did\n\",0.0,0.0\n5418,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ram Rachum,2.8153892694839717,4.259950126141527,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.8746593652159236,1.0718911890698015,Glue for attaching PLA pieces to titanium,\"I'd like to attach a piece I printed out of PLA to a small titanium rod. I've previously used Superglue (cyanoacrylate) to glue PLA pieces to each other with great success, but the problem is that if you don't apply it perfectly cleanly, it leaves very noticeable stains on the PLA.\n\nCan anyone recommend a good glue for this application that won't leave stains like that? \n\",Valmond,\"A glue gun would IMO work very well, and you can use transparent (or almost transparent) glue sticks to minimize ugly looking stains.\n\nThings glued together usually break before the glue (in my experience) and it's cheap, you can get one for $10 with some glue sticks. It's fun too, I glue everything since I bought one :-)\n\",0.0,0.0\n5418,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ram Rachum,2.8153892694839717,4.259950126141527,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.8746593652159236,1.0718911890698015,Glue for attaching PLA pieces to titanium,\"I'd like to attach a piece I printed out of PLA to a small titanium rod. I've previously used Superglue (cyanoacrylate) to glue PLA pieces to each other with great success, but the problem is that if you don't apply it perfectly cleanly, it leaves very noticeable stains on the PLA.\n\nCan anyone recommend a good glue for this application that won't leave stains like that? \n\",Ram Rachum,\"After perusing http://www.thistothat.com/ I decided to give J-B Weld epoxy a try.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5997,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ram Rachum,2.8153892694839717,3.1652291071264176,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.9784382375735183,Getting precise measurement of a complex rod,\"I'm trying to build a headrest for my Sayl office chair. For that, I'm designing a 3d-printed part that's going to fit on one of the existing rods of the chair.\n\nCheck out this picture:\n\n\n\nHow would you go about in getting the exact measurements of that white rod? I tried a caliper, and I'm able to get the width and depth, and I can just assume that the rod's profile is a perfect ellipse, which is probably a close estimate. But say that I want to get a more precise measurement. Is there any technique to do that? \n\",0scar,\"You could pull it apart and have it 3d scanned if you want to know the exact dimensions. There are companies that can do that for you at a certain price. Our company has used such services in scanning various parts before we obtained our own laser scanning device. \n\nThe question is whether you want exactly the same (dimension wise) part (maybe you do for ecstatic reasons) while a part that is a little more beefier would work also.\n\nEdit:\nAlthough tagged with 3D scanning, the OP did not mention whether he would be able to disassemble the part. 3D scanning is an option when taken apart. Another solution has been posted since.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5997,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ram Rachum,2.8153892694839717,3.1652291071264176,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.9784382375735183,Getting precise measurement of a complex rod,\"I'm trying to build a headrest for my Sayl office chair. For that, I'm designing a 3d-printed part that's going to fit on one of the existing rods of the chair.\n\nCheck out this picture:\n\n\n\nHow would you go about in getting the exact measurements of that white rod? I tried a caliper, and I'm able to get the width and depth, and I can just assume that the rod's profile is a perfect ellipse, which is probably a close estimate. But say that I want to get a more precise measurement. Is there any technique to do that? \n\",0scar,\"In an earlier comment you stated that you cannot take it apart. So without taking it apart, you could try to determine the profile the old-fashion way with a piece of cardboard and a short pencil, just cut the rough shape of the rod and place it onto the rod, then take the short pencil and draw the profile onto the cardboard with the pencil parallel to the rod. Measuring the distance from the pencil center to the pencil radius will give you the profile of the rod with that off-set. This technique, or the technique used to create notches in logs for log cabins may be used to find the profile at various sections which have to be entered in a 3D CAD model program and splined/lofted to get the surface of the rod.\n\nAlternatively you could use a profile shape tool carpenters use: \n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4681,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,boxmatic,2.1782824847157594,4.83904720228354,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,Make a nose cone in Fusion 360,\"I am new to Fusion 360 and I think I'm going straight to something complicated. Is there a way to make a nose cone for a model rocket? What tools would one you to accomplish this?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"If you have a specific shape in mind and can create a sketch to represent that shape, you are halfway to your goal.\n\nThe concept is simple. Create a single line sketch that would represent the desired curve, starting from, in this example, the nose of the cone and traveling to the base. Create only one-half of the nose cone curve and maintain a \"\"standard\"\" axis reference, say, using the Y-axis as the rotation point.\n\nThe process is called revolve. Fusion 360 supports this action directly.\n\nIn the Sculpt workspace, choose Create Revolve.\nSelect the profile to revolve.\nIn the Revolve dialog:\n Click Axis and then select the axis to revolve around.\n Choose Full or Angle to specify whether the revolution is full or to a specific angle.\n For Direction choose One Side, Two Side or Symmetrical.\n For Symmetry, choose None or Circular.\n\n\nThe above text is taken directly from the link. The specific web site also includes a Flash video of the steps involved.\n\nIf thickness is required for your creation, consider to draw the sketch from the nose to the base, then use Offset or hand sketch in a parallel line that returns to the nose. Ensure the base segment is joined and that the nose segments are open and are aligned to the Y-axis.\n\nAs the sketch is revolved, the nose sections will \"\"close\"\" while the base creates the closure necessary to make a solid that is hollow within and open at the bottom.\n\nUse The Google or your preferred search engine with the terms \"\"Fusion 360 Revolve\"\" to find many tutorials and videos with the same information presented in various ways.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n4681,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,boxmatic,2.1782824847157594,4.83904720228354,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,Make a nose cone in Fusion 360,\"I am new to Fusion 360 and I think I'm going straight to something complicated. Is there a way to make a nose cone for a model rocket? What tools would one you to accomplish this?\n\",TECTEC3 Studios,\"Try model8ng the rocket into the workspace, and then you can extruder a nose cone from the top using a 30 degree angle\n\",0.0,0.0\n4690,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Manuel,2.528907649931287,3.985163827898809,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Is my 3D printer totally dead?,\"The last few days my 3D printer has not been working, despite the fact that the LCD Screen has been working perfectly (since the problem the LCD bright potentiometer went very sensitive, so the brightness set to the maximum although before the problem it was perfectly calibrated).\n\nThe problem arrived when I was unplugging the fan from the board because it wasn't working while the printer was on, suddenly the LCDs brightness set to the maximum so I turned the printer off as fast as I could. When I turned it on again, I had to recalibrate the LCDs brightness and when I tried to move the steppers the weren't working, some of them made strange noises and didn't move. I have to say that now every time I turn on my printer, an orange LED flashes, but I cannot remember if it was normal or not.\n\nMy 3D printer: Geeetech I3 Pro B 3D Printer DIY Kit - Black US Plug 1\n\nThe board I'm using: XCSOURCE® Kit de impresora 3D con RAMPS 1.4 Controlador + Mega 2560 Board + 5pcs A4988 Controlador de motor de pasos con disipador de calor + LCD 12864 Controlador gráfico de visualización inteligente con adaptador para Arduino TE621\n\",cmm,\"I would have posted this as a comment, since it is not a definitive answer to the question, but it was too long for a comment.\n\nSince you were unplugging the fan when the problem started, I would suggest that it is a wiring problem. \n\nThe first place I would look is to check the ground connection between the processor board (probably the ATMEGA Arduino), and the board that carries the stepper motor drivers. If the ground connection is faulty, the board may still work due to sneak ground paths through signal lines.\n\nA simple way to check is to measure the voltage from the GND pin on the ATMEGA to the ground of the driver board. That voltage should be very close to 0.0 Volts. You might also check the resistance (using an ohm meter) with the power turned off. The resistance should be 0.0 ohms, or if the meter is not perfectly calibrated, it should be the same as you measure with the probes connected together.\n\nIf either of these readings isn't zero, search for a broken connection.\n\nOne sign that ground may be broken is the LCD brightness control sensitivity. I don't have the schematic to refer to, but if the ground reference for the pot is broken, the output of the pot will be too high.\n\nAnother sign is that the stepper motors still make some sounds when they should move.\n\nIf you don't find a problem there, check through the other power and ground connections. Be sure that all GND lines are well connected, all +5 lines are well connected, and that all +12 lines are well connected.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4692,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,eduardogarcia234,3.452496054252184,5.691659275552723,0.0,5.199501240805782,2.746326330407206,2.5570684596094884,Nozzle rubs on previous layers,\"I'm having a frustrating problem on my recent built custom 3d printer\nso every single print I made, from the third layer, the nozzle is \"\"rubbing\"\" on the already placed filament. This results in a complete mess, melting the previous layers with the nozzle / new extrusions coming, getting malformed and out of precision forms, if I leave this happening, my Y axis motor (bed) start to jump steps (by the force of nozzle friction to cold material). To stop that symptom, on the beginning of this, I have to raise the Z axis by hand turning about 1/8 rotation of T8 fuse. By doing this, every rest of my printing runs peaceful, nicely and beauty.\n\nI'm using Marlin Firmware, most recent version, and Ultimaker Cura. My Nozzle size is 0.5 and i'm using Ultimaker Cura's Fine Preset (0.1mm height)\n\nMy stepper motors axis are very well calibrated (X, Y, Z and Extruder). I tried:\n\n\nlowering and raising print bed to get spaced or shrunken first layers to see if something help, \ntried to change Z home offset on display, \ntried the M206 command to change print zone of Z axis, \ntried to change first layer height on Ultimaker Cura, \n\n\nbut nothing seems to solve my problems.\n\nDue to my lack of experience I don't know what I could try to solve this frustrating issue. I already check and rechecked my mechanical structure and everything was fine solid and very well balanced and on square.\n\n\n\nFrom comment: \n\n\nPrinting speed are 40 mm/s, \nTemps: \n\n\nHotend: 220 °C; \nHot Bed: 120 °C; \nI have also tried 110 °C, \n\nMy Z-axis uses 800 steps per mm (1/32 micro stepping on DRV8825 at RAMPS).\n\n\nI'm thinking about over extrusion but I have fine tuned my stepper, checked and rechecked for it and seems normal \n\",jeremiah harless,\"Does Cura have options for avoiding perimeters during moves? And does it have an option to step up the z axis during non print moves? These were the two issues I was having with the nozzle dragging through the previous layers on my prints. I set the z axis to move up 0.2 mm during non print moves and to avoid Perimeters during non print moves (using Slic3r) which eliminated this issue for me almost entirely.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4692,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,eduardogarcia234,3.452496054252184,5.691659275552723,0.0,5.199501240805782,2.746326330407206,2.5570684596094884,Nozzle rubs on previous layers,\"I'm having a frustrating problem on my recent built custom 3d printer\nso every single print I made, from the third layer, the nozzle is \"\"rubbing\"\" on the already placed filament. This results in a complete mess, melting the previous layers with the nozzle / new extrusions coming, getting malformed and out of precision forms, if I leave this happening, my Y axis motor (bed) start to jump steps (by the force of nozzle friction to cold material). To stop that symptom, on the beginning of this, I have to raise the Z axis by hand turning about 1/8 rotation of T8 fuse. By doing this, every rest of my printing runs peaceful, nicely and beauty.\n\nI'm using Marlin Firmware, most recent version, and Ultimaker Cura. My Nozzle size is 0.5 and i'm using Ultimaker Cura's Fine Preset (0.1mm height)\n\nMy stepper motors axis are very well calibrated (X, Y, Z and Extruder). I tried:\n\n\nlowering and raising print bed to get spaced or shrunken first layers to see if something help, \ntried to change Z home offset on display, \ntried the M206 command to change print zone of Z axis, \ntried to change first layer height on Ultimaker Cura, \n\n\nbut nothing seems to solve my problems.\n\nDue to my lack of experience I don't know what I could try to solve this frustrating issue. I already check and rechecked my mechanical structure and everything was fine solid and very well balanced and on square.\n\n\n\nFrom comment: \n\n\nPrinting speed are 40 mm/s, \nTemps: \n\n\nHotend: 220 °C; \nHot Bed: 120 °C; \nI have also tried 110 °C, \n\nMy Z-axis uses 800 steps per mm (1/32 micro stepping on DRV8825 at RAMPS).\n\n\nI'm thinking about over extrusion but I have fine tuned my stepper, checked and rechecked for it and seems normal \n\",eduardogarcia234,\"I have made some learning on mechanical setup and discovered some issues on my printer, there are few:\n\n\nBed warped, even with glass (thin thickness), making BAL confused with Z-movement over the bed.\nOverextrusion making layer oversized in terms of thickness.\nSome of missing mechanical fine adjustments.\n\n\nThe main reason for this symptom was the overextrusion (that made my X and Y axis jump some steps when hotend collapses in the already-printed materials on their movements).\n\nI hope this helps some of those who have this similar problem!\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n4694,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,joebrad27 ,2.8153892694839717,3.6755458889710138,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,MOSFET problems!,\"I ordered a MOSFET module on eBay for my 3D printer and I did not get the one in the picture but I got this: \n\n\n\nIf there is any way I could use this on my Anet A8 could someone tell me how, as it only has one input connector, DC in, and 12 V out.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"No, this module is completely useless for your intended purpose.\n\nThe load side is marked with \"\"5A 5-220VDC\"\". This means it can only switch up to 5A, maximum. The heated bed draws more than twice this current.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n4710,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,joebrad27 ,1.726248027126092,3.530743348684184,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,ROKO bed levelling sensor,\"I was sent my sensor (a ROKO) and I plugged it in with the pins in the wrong order, would this break my sensor? If so is there anything I could do?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"I can't comment for the specific sensor you have, but in general, yes, if you plug something in backwards you have a chance of breaking it - and whatever you plug it into - permanently.\n\nYou might have gotten lucky, though - but short of testing the sensor to see whether it will work there is no way to find out.\n\nConsider that these sensors are not made to be plugged directly into endstop connectors. The endstop connectors only provide 5V, whereas these sensors often require at least 6V to operate. Some people get lucky and have theirs work on only 5V, but it's not guaranteed to work. This might also be the cause why your sensor is not working, even if it's not broken. There are some special sensors out there that are rated to work at 5V, but you should check the operating voltage of your specific sensor.\n\nIf your sensor requires more than 5V to operate, then you should also be aware that the signal pin might output more than 5V, in which case, it should not be connected directly to the signal pin on the board (since anything over 5V might damage the board).\n\nFinally, consider the possibility that neither orientation (backwards or not) is correct. Perhaps the order of the wires in the sensor's connector is different from that of the main board. Make sure that the pinout of your sensor matches the pinout of the connector on your board. These sensors usually have a slightly strange color coding where black is signal, blue is ground and brown is power.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4699,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user3779413,3.267423727073639,5.8129140074139585,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,missing small sections of layers after a retraction,\"So I am missing small sections of a layer when it prints, after a retraction for a layer change or a move, the extruder stops moving (no it isn't clicking or anything else. Just not moving). Which is fine for a few millimeters because the pressure inside the Bowden setup keeps pushing enough filament through. However, once that isn't enough it starts to make very thin lines with beads of plastic just barely holding things together. Basically this ends up as a good 2 cm or more at times of highly under extruded lines. \nThis happens in the slowdown after the retraction when it is restarting.\nit simply doesn't move the extruder at all. \nThe reason I know this is because I can see the extruder not moving, in that brief period. I know it is not the extruder clicking or anything else because I can disengage the extruder spring and push filament through manually during this time with no issues.\n\nI am using Ideamaker currently because I like it. \n\nI have looked at this Holes/ missing layers (after retraction) in 3d printed objects\nwhich is somewhat similar in appearance, but not in reason. \n\n\n\nEDIT: So I figure it is some form of coasting that IdeaMaker has implemented for their Raise printers. I am going to try and reduce the length of the coaster attempt to convert my Bowden to a direct drive with titan extruder. I have the Titan already, but it has been giving me issues with not having enough power to push filament without ripping it to shreds. That's another thing I have to look at at some point when I have the time.\n\",TECTEC3 Studios,\"Try lowering your retraction settings further. I have had this issue before as well, but you need to experiment with your retraction settings in order to get it right. I would suggest placing 2 one cm blocks side by side and starting with a retraction of 2 mm and working your way up from there until you get the lowest stringiness with the least amount of under extrusion.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4703,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ben S.,2.1782824847157594,4.514006310921937,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Unable to install auto-bed levelling sensor into my Anet A8,\"I've been trying to install an inductive sensor for auto-bed levelling into my Anet A8 and I'm having a few issues. \n\nI have been using the wiring diagram provided by Solid Ground Electronics in one of his videos (Cheap 3D Printer - Anet A8: Upgrades, Experience & Thoughts), which I decided to follow as it still uses the Z limit switch, in case the inductive sensor fails to work.\n\nThe sensor seems to work when I power the printer on, the red LED is constantly on and when it comes into contact with metal, the LED turns brighter (as shown in the photos).\n\nHowever, when I set it to auto-home, the Z axis does not move down like it usually does (until it hits the switch), but it moves up a bit. Although when I auto-homed the printer with a piece of metal under the sensor, the Z axis moved down, like it should do. So the sensor is acting in an opposite way to what it needs to.\n\nI believe that it's been wired up correctly with a 10k ohm resistor connected to the base of the transistor and the signal wire of the probe. However the NPN transistor shown in the diagram is '2N4401' and the one I used is 'PN2222A', but I believe this should have no difference in the function of the transistor (only the voltages it can handle). \n\nI initially thought that as the NPN transistor is slightly different, perhaps the polarity of emitter and collector is incorrect, so I switched them around but the problem still occurs.\n\nI would thoroughly appreciate it if anyone can help!\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The sensor is working correctly, but the signal is inverted.\n\nTake the obvious solution: invert the endstop from being normally open to normally closed or vice-versa in your firmware.\n\nIf you still want to use your existing limit switch in parallel with the sensor (as shown in the video), you will need to switch that one over as well (usually limit switches have 3 contact points, one common, one NC, one NO, so you'd need to move the wire from the NC contact to NO or vice-versa).\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4707,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Monica Pinnedyr Jansen,1.0891412423578797,3.3206222047196907,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"can the intel sense \"\"xyzprinters 3dscanner\"\" work on amd prossessors anyway?\",\"i ordred a xyzprinter 3d scanner today on ebay, bechause i through it would work with my quick new windows 10 pc setup. but when i tested the scanner compability i downloaded here now, it says that all settings on my pc is compatible, but exept from the prosessor i have, the amd ryzen 7, 8 core. it says that my computer is not compatible with the xyz scanner bechause i have not the intel 4 or newer intel prosessor, but instead of having intel prosessor, i have an amd ryzen 7, 8 core prosessor. will the xyz 3d scanner work anyway, even if i have not intel but as quick as an old intel 4thgen prosessor is, i have an new amd ryzen 7, 8 core?\n\n(i have also 32gb ram memory and nvidia 1070 mini graphic card with 8gb ram in and windows home 10 64bit and 3 usb 3.0 ports on my pc. and a corsair motherboard).\n\",cmm,\"Here are some ways a program might indicate incompatibility:\n\n\nThere is something in the code that is actually incompatible -- such\nas some Intel-only DSP instructions. \nThey are using an Intel library or source code that is licensed only for \nuse on Intel processors.\nThey added a check to their code to be sure the processor was\npowerful enough to handle the load, and they forgot to consider AMD\nor other processors.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4770,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Monica Pinnedyr Jansen,0.0,3.9080899584101134,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Scanning 3D with a Kinect v2 on AMD Ryzen 7?,\"My processor is running at 4.70 GHz and has 8 cores. I also have 32GB RAM. I have a USB 3.0 and a USB 3.1 xHCI hub, and Nvidia 1700 graphics card. \n\nCan I use the Kinect v2 and the adapter to scan rooms, and objects, quickly, without trouble with the USB?\n\",Falderol,\"In short with the hardware you have it should be no problem. In actuality your specific setup, how you move the scanner, how stable is the scanner, what software you are using, and how you've calibrated the kinect will most likely have the largest impact on the quality, and speed in which you can scan.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n4735,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,AnotherHowie,1.726248027126092,4.400357810556553,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,gcode commands in octoprint: Z moves ignored?,\"A while ago, I created some simple command buttons in Octoprint to help with bed levelling, by hopping to particular points on the bed. I realised that what I actually want to do is move Z up 10mm, move, and then home Z though, to avoid ploughing the nozzle along the bed if the level is badly off.\n\nSo I did this:\n\n - commands:\n - G91\n - G1 Z-10\n - G90\n - G1 X30 Y160 F9000\n - G28 Z\n name: Back Left\n type: command\n\n\nWhich should be, switch to relative move, Move -10mm Z, switch back to absolute, go to the specified point and then home Z.\n\nExcept there's no Z move. I get the feeling that something might be optimising the moves together into one, or something similar... how can I get my printer to move up, then across, then down?\n\n(printer is an quite modified Anet A8 i3 clone - I think the board is Melzi-based?)\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"\n what I actually want to do is move Z up 10mm\n\n\nThe command G1 Z-10 tells the printer to decrease the Z-axis position, i.e., move the nozzle closer to the bed. You should use G1 Z10 instead.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n4735,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,AnotherHowie,1.726248027126092,4.400357810556553,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,gcode commands in octoprint: Z moves ignored?,\"A while ago, I created some simple command buttons in Octoprint to help with bed levelling, by hopping to particular points on the bed. I realised that what I actually want to do is move Z up 10mm, move, and then home Z though, to avoid ploughing the nozzle along the bed if the level is badly off.\n\nSo I did this:\n\n - commands:\n - G91\n - G1 Z-10\n - G90\n - G1 X30 Y160 F9000\n - G28 Z\n name: Back Left\n type: command\n\n\nWhich should be, switch to relative move, Move -10mm Z, switch back to absolute, go to the specified point and then home Z.\n\nExcept there's no Z move. I get the feeling that something might be optimising the moves together into one, or something similar... how can I get my printer to move up, then across, then down?\n\n(printer is an quite modified Anet A8 i3 clone - I think the board is Melzi-based?)\n\",AnotherHowie,\"Thanks in part to Tom van Der Zanden, I got a working version, which I'll paste below to add some actual value to this question! The G1 XY coordinates for each position are for near the corners on a 220x220 bed, but leaving enough room to access a screw in the corner of the bed if you need to (I don't anymore, but my printer did initially) - for different bed sizes, you'll want to change them. Add to ~/.octoprint/config.yml\n\ncontrols:\n- children:\n - commands:\n - M140 S50\n - M104 S190 T0\n name: Preheat\n type: command\n - commands:\n - G91\n - G1 Z10\n - G90\n - G1 X30 Y50 F9000\n - G28 Z0\n name: Front Left\n type: command\n - commands:\n - G91\n - G1 Z10\n - G90\n - G1 X180 Y70 F9000\n - G28 Z0\n name: Front Right\n type: command\n - commands:\n - G91\n - G1 Z10\n - G90\n - G1 X30 Y160 F9000\n - G28 Z0\n name: Back Left\n type: command\n - commands:\n - G91\n - G1 Z10\n - G90\n - G1 X180 Y160 F9000\n - G28 Z0\n name: Back Right\n type: command\n - commands:\n - G91\n - G1 Z10\n - G90\n - G1 X100 Y100 F9000\n - G28 Z0\n name: Centre\n type: command\n layout: horizontal\n name: Levelling\n\n\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n4750,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,thedp,2.1782824847157594,3.9811022261621547,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Adding support when generating g-code from Cura Engine (command line)?,\"Is it possible to use Cura Engine (the command line tool) to generate a gcode with support?\n\nHere is what I do now: \n\nCuraEngine slice -j /usr/share/cura/resources/definitions/ultimaker2.def.json -l my.stl -o my.gcode\n\n\",Steve-O-Rama,\"I found this in the fdrmprinter.def.json which you could might make a copy of and use instead for the -j option:\n\n\"\"support\"\":\n {\n \"\"label\"\": \"\"Support\"\",\n \"\"type\"\": \"\"category\"\",\n \"\"icon\"\": \"\"category_support\"\",\n \"\"description\"\": \"\"Support\"\",\n \"\"children\"\":\n {\n \"\"support_enable\"\":\n {\n \"\"label\"\": \"\"Enable Support\"\",\n \"\"description\"\": \"\"Enable support structures. These structures support$\n \"\"type\"\": \"\"bool\"\",\n \"\"default_value\"\": false,\n \"\"settable_per_mesh\"\": true,\n \"\"settable_per_extruder\"\": false\n }\n }\n }\n\n\nChange the \"\"default_value\"\" under \"\"support_enable\"\" to true and that could work.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n4792,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,thedp,2.528907649931287,3.612224941552368,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,-1.3276579603156529,Centering model with CuraEngine when creating g-code?,\"How can I center a model at the middle of the printing area of the printer when creating a g-code with CuraEngine. \n\nAre there any parameters I can add to ultimaker2.def.json to achieve this?\nThanks.\n\",joshConway,\"If this is over the commandline tool \"\"CuraEngine\"\", then you will have to read the sourcecode. According to the Author, 'Nope. Only documentation there is in the code, readme and my head.' (cringe!).\n\nIf you're talking of the GUI program, then right click and click \"\"Center\"\". But this requires GUI usage. Not so nice if you want to automate using curaengine as your slicer.\n\",-2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4792,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,thedp,2.528907649931287,3.612224941552368,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,-1.3276579603156529,Centering model with CuraEngine when creating g-code?,\"How can I center a model at the middle of the printing area of the printer when creating a g-code with CuraEngine. \n\nAre there any parameters I can add to ultimaker2.def.json to achieve this?\nThanks.\n\",thedp,\"Found a solution.\nThis need to be applied under \"\"settings\"\"\n\n\"\"command_line_settings\"\": {\n \"\"label\"\": \"\"Command Line Settings\"\",\n \"\"description\"\": \"\"Settings which are only used if CuraEngine isn't called from the Cura frontend.\"\",\n \"\"type\"\": \"\"category\"\",\n \"\"enabled\"\": true,\n \"\"children\"\": {\n \"\"center_object\"\": {\n \"\"description\"\": \"\"Whether to center the object on the middle of the build platform (0,0), instead of using the coordinate system in which the object was saved.\"\",\n \"\"type\"\": \"\"bool\"\",\n \"\"label\"\": \"\"Center object\"\",\n \"\"default_value\"\": true,\n \"\"enabled\"\": true\n }\n }\n}\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5140,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,thedp,2.528907649931287,3.70361087347315,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Using KISSlicer from command line on Linux?,\"Is there a way to use KISSlicer from the Linux command line?\n\nOr convert KISSlicer settings/profile to Slic3r/CuraEngine?\n\",0scar,\"Apparently you require a PRO license for using the command line interface.\n\nAs of version 1.6 the following command line options are implemented:\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4751,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Steve-O-Rama,2.528907649931287,6.151237311277679,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Print Nozzle Dragging and Smearing Filament while Printing,\"I am building a Prusa i3 MK2 Clone and I am caught on this one. I have replaced the extruder with a MK8 adapted by myself to fit with most of the previous hardware from the E3D style extruder.\n\n\n\nMy current problem is that the nozzle appears to be dragging on the top of the layers. I can't tell if it's over extrusion or a layer height issue or what. I am testing by printing the 20mm calibration cube. The dimensions appear to be spot-on, but the layers start building up too much filament such that it just gets re-melted and shuffled around:\n\n\n\nAnyone have a clue what this could be? Software, Hardware, Slic3r Settings?\n\nI have:\n0.5mm Nozzle Diameter.\nMK8 Direct Drive extruder.\n\nAnything else you want to know?\n\nThanks!\n\n--- UPDATE ---\n\nThanks everyone for your help. Turns out it was seriously over-extruding, like 3x what it should have been! I ran through this instructable: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-calibrate-the-Extruder-on-your-3d-Printer/ Which helped me with what I needed to do to fix the issue, but just re-flashed Marlin on the printer with the updated setting.\n\nHere's the result! WAY better, I still have some z-wobbling issues but i think the frame just needs more support than it has now and that should fix up the slightly jagged corners.\n\n\n\",Athanasios Karagiannis,\"You stated your print of a 20mm cube came out spot on so I will rule out any z-axis configuration issues. It clearly seems like you are extruding too much plastic.\n\nI use slic3r myself with repetier so I am familiar with the settings.\n\nPrint Settings - Advanced\n\nAll the values should be 0 except first layer sometimes is 100%-200% depending on your personal setup. Increasing these values may cause more filament to leave the extruder.\n\nFilament Settings - Diameter\n\nThis should be set to 1.75 or 3 depending on your filament size. If you accidentally have it set to 1.75 when your filament is 3mm, it would probably be over-extruding since it pushing almost double the plastic with the same length.\n\nFilament Settings - Extrusion multiplier\n\nThis should be set to 1 or slowly adjust it 0.05 increments to reduce overall amount of plastic leaving the nozzle.\n\nPrinter Settings - Nozzle diameter\n\nThis should be set to 0.5 since your nozzle is 0.5mm. Make sure your nozzle truly is this value.\n\nEDITED 10/19/17 - OP has solved problem and his own answer made me realize I made mistake on how to measure and correct extrusion steps/mm. Ignore this below and see what OP wrote in their edit.\n\nIf all these Slic3r configurations fail or are correct and do not solve your problem, I think you may want to look into your motor step settings for the extruder. It may be too high pushing more filament than it should. To correct this, you need to do the length test where you will extrude 10mm or 50mm and measure the string of plastic. There might be some stretch so a 10mm may measure as 11mm but as long as your close it should be good. If you extrude 10mm and you measure 25mm, you need to recalculate your steps per mm.\n\nAlso for your first layer, make sure it is not being smushed to the build plate. You want it to be flattened a little to provide good adhesion but not too close to the build plate where it would constrict the nozzle.\n\nHope this helps, and good luck on your prints. May you never have to deal with thermal runaway error :)\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n4755,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,AndrewP,2.528907649931287,3.9412650096885966,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.878685800062712,Small part bed adhesion,\"I am trying to print a model that has (at the start of the print) several small parts attached to the bed. Some of these parts have bed contact 2.5mm x 20mm.\n\nAfter a few layers, if there are any imperfections in the previous layer, the hotend is bumping the imperfection and knocking the part loose.\n\nI am using a genuine Prusa i3 Mk2s with Filaform PLA. I am slicing with PrusaControl and using the \"\"Generic PLA\"\" settings, which is giving me 215/210 degree hot end (first/other layers), and 55 degree bed. I have the fan enabled. The print bed is clean and dust free\n\nHow can I improve bed adhesion for these small parts, ideally without adding brims etc? \n\nThanks\n\",Markus Appel,\"First off, in my experience 215 °C printing temperature is very high for PLA. Try using 200 - 205 °C.\n\nAnd whatever you are printing, I can't see why brims would be a problem. Use a sharp knife to remove them afterwards. As you described the parts are thin and long, which increases heat contraction. Brims are essential for this.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4755,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,AndrewP,2.528907649931287,3.9412650096885966,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.878685800062712,Small part bed adhesion,\"I am trying to print a model that has (at the start of the print) several small parts attached to the bed. Some of these parts have bed contact 2.5mm x 20mm.\n\nAfter a few layers, if there are any imperfections in the previous layer, the hotend is bumping the imperfection and knocking the part loose.\n\nI am using a genuine Prusa i3 Mk2s with Filaform PLA. I am slicing with PrusaControl and using the \"\"Generic PLA\"\" settings, which is giving me 215/210 degree hot end (first/other layers), and 55 degree bed. I have the fan enabled. The print bed is clean and dust free\n\nHow can I improve bed adhesion for these small parts, ideally without adding brims etc? \n\nThanks\n\",Mick,\"One technique is to add your own custom brims to the model. A couple of \"\"Mickey Mouse ears\"\", attached to each end of the piece, may be enough to keep it in place (and will also be easy to remove).\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5719,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,AndrewP,2.8153892694839717,5.406513644411517,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.1827783713261073,0.42741039782645945,Support material first layer adhesion issues,\"I am quite new to 3D printing, and having difficulty printing first layer of an object with support. The object has a few curved surfaces that touch the print bed, so not a big starting foot print.\n\nI am printing on a genuine Prusa i3 mk2s, using PLA, 210 °C (clean from what I can tell) nozzle, 60 °C (clean, good condition) heat bed. My model is an STL from Thingiverse, and I sliced it with Prusa Control. Settings: 0.3 mm layers, 30 % infill, Support from build plate, brim on. I have run the printer calibration, z-axis calibration, etc. Only thing that might be a bit out is my z-axis might be a fraction too low. I have no issues when printing objects without support, and usually don't have issues printing objects with support (although typically these have a larger contact area of the object to the print bed as well)\n\nAfter it prints the brim (which adheres well), it tries to print the support layers for the \"\"actual\"\" layers that will get printed first. These layers do not touch the outer brim. They go down with a little bit of \"\"squeeze out\"\" when the printer does a 180-degree turn. (this can be seen on the right hand end of first picture).\n\nThen, it attempts to print the whole-of-base support structure (refer to pic 3 and 4 for details). Where these support layers touch the outer brim, they adhere well. When they touch the initial support layer sections, it tears them up, leaving a big mess.\n\nWhat appears to me to be happening, is the small sections that get printed first (circled in red) are either not adhering well enough, or somehow getting \"\"ruffled up\"\", or are printed too close to the subsequent, broader strokes of the rest of the support layer, such that when the rest of the support layer is printed, it is tearing up the initial small sections. Having 2 densities of support layer per layer seems to be causing issues.\n\nFailed print, still on the bed. At the right, there is a section of \"\"fine\"\" support material that sort of survived.\n\n\n\nClose up of the failed first layer. The broad strokes seem to adhere well except for when they meet where the fine layer was - after that it's just a big mess.\n\n\n\nSlicing in Prusa control (part 1): shows the different support structures and very minimal contact of actual object to the bed (orange) \n\n\n\nClose up of other problem area in PC slicing. No actual contact of object to bed here. Also, as a side note, why the funny diagonal line cutting through the rest of the support structure here?\n\n\n\",profesor79,\"It is hard to determine the exact source of the problem as there are few possibilities (I am assuming that you have a single nozzle and only one filament in use):\n\n\nOne of the hardest issues for me to get on my printer was fact that my auto-level sensor was mounted about 0.5mm too high - so please check that as this will give you a bit higher Z than expected.\nPrinting speed matters - for some prints I was slowing my printer to 20% of nominal speed to get adhesion\na hair-spray layer or a masking tape on the bed could help with getting the grip\nalso you could play with nozzle temperature de/increasing by 5 degrees and see how it is going\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n5719,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,AndrewP,2.8153892694839717,5.406513644411517,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.1827783713261073,0.42741039782645945,Support material first layer adhesion issues,\"I am quite new to 3D printing, and having difficulty printing first layer of an object with support. The object has a few curved surfaces that touch the print bed, so not a big starting foot print.\n\nI am printing on a genuine Prusa i3 mk2s, using PLA, 210 °C (clean from what I can tell) nozzle, 60 °C (clean, good condition) heat bed. My model is an STL from Thingiverse, and I sliced it with Prusa Control. Settings: 0.3 mm layers, 30 % infill, Support from build plate, brim on. I have run the printer calibration, z-axis calibration, etc. Only thing that might be a bit out is my z-axis might be a fraction too low. I have no issues when printing objects without support, and usually don't have issues printing objects with support (although typically these have a larger contact area of the object to the print bed as well)\n\nAfter it prints the brim (which adheres well), it tries to print the support layers for the \"\"actual\"\" layers that will get printed first. These layers do not touch the outer brim. They go down with a little bit of \"\"squeeze out\"\" when the printer does a 180-degree turn. (this can be seen on the right hand end of first picture).\n\nThen, it attempts to print the whole-of-base support structure (refer to pic 3 and 4 for details). Where these support layers touch the outer brim, they adhere well. When they touch the initial support layer sections, it tears them up, leaving a big mess.\n\nWhat appears to me to be happening, is the small sections that get printed first (circled in red) are either not adhering well enough, or somehow getting \"\"ruffled up\"\", or are printed too close to the subsequent, broader strokes of the rest of the support layer, such that when the rest of the support layer is printed, it is tearing up the initial small sections. Having 2 densities of support layer per layer seems to be causing issues.\n\nFailed print, still on the bed. At the right, there is a section of \"\"fine\"\" support material that sort of survived.\n\n\n\nClose up of the failed first layer. The broad strokes seem to adhere well except for when they meet where the fine layer was - after that it's just a big mess.\n\n\n\nSlicing in Prusa control (part 1): shows the different support structures and very minimal contact of actual object to the bed (orange) \n\n\n\nClose up of other problem area in PC slicing. No actual contact of object to bed here. Also, as a side note, why the funny diagonal line cutting through the rest of the support structure here?\n\n\n\",Radiovan,\"I've seen this on my Prusa clone. It looks to me like the nozzle is a bit too close to the bed so not enough plastic is being extruded. I got a perfect PLA print at 215 °C and 0.2 mm for the first layer and 210 °C with 0.15 mm for the rest. When I tried 215 °C/0.3 mm first layer and 210 °C/0.2 mm on a large print I got poor adhesion and a warped corner. I used the same Z height offset.\nI didn't get a picture but it looks like the opposite problem to yours; not enough squish down on the first layer. I print with hairspray directly on aluminum and usually get great results. I'm going to retry with a more negative offset and will post pictures of the results.\n\",0.0,0.0\n4764,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gaming32,2.528907649931287,4.900193012989688,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,\"3D Builder is Saying \"\"One or more objects is invalidly defined\"\"\",\"Currently, 3D Builder is telling me \"\"one or more objects are invalidly defined. Click here to repair.\"\" What is this and what does it mean? When I click it, it totally messes up my model (I can't tell what it even did due to the orthogonal camera). Model stats: \n\n\nMade with Sketchup\nUsed STL Exporter to export it\nLast I knew what the repairing did to it was to remove my sinks and reduced them to holes in the floor\nI used ASCII encoding for my STL (I tried using Binary, but it didn't help)\nI tried subdividing it but it didn't help.\n\n\nScreenshots:\n\nThis is a picture of the model before repairing:\n\n\nThis is a picture of the model after repairing:\n\n\n(Just in case you wonder. I actually have to use STL for this project)\n\",fred_dot_u,\"SketchUp is notorious for creating non-manifold (non-3D-printable) models. You would be much better off to learn to use a different, better suited program for your purposes.\n\nDisregarding that aspect for the moment, your model prior to repair appears to be a general rectangular prismatic shape with dividers. Unfortunately, those dividers also appear to have zero wall thickness. One must create objects with thickness (minimum should be no lower than your nozzle diameter) in order to have that portion addressed.\n\nOther views of the object may confirm this.\n\nBack to the first reference, even a program as simple as TinkerCAD will give you SketchUp simplicity with a much smaller chance of this sort of failure. For more advanced model creation with parameters, Fusion 360 offers hobbyist free license. I'm also quite fond of OpenSCAD ( also free ) for parameter-based model creation.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4764,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gaming32,2.528907649931287,4.900193012989688,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,\"3D Builder is Saying \"\"One or more objects is invalidly defined\"\"\",\"Currently, 3D Builder is telling me \"\"one or more objects are invalidly defined. Click here to repair.\"\" What is this and what does it mean? When I click it, it totally messes up my model (I can't tell what it even did due to the orthogonal camera). Model stats: \n\n\nMade with Sketchup\nUsed STL Exporter to export it\nLast I knew what the repairing did to it was to remove my sinks and reduced them to holes in the floor\nI used ASCII encoding for my STL (I tried using Binary, but it didn't help)\nI tried subdividing it but it didn't help.\n\n\nScreenshots:\n\nThis is a picture of the model before repairing:\n\n\nThis is a picture of the model after repairing:\n\n\n(Just in case you wonder. I actually have to use STL for this project)\n\",Mick,\"How thick are those walls? 3D printers cannot print zero-width surfaces (and slicers cannot slice them). 3D Builder has tried to make your model printable, but obviously not in the way that you might have hoped for. You need to go back to Sketchup (or some other CAD package) and give the walls a definite thickness (and one big enough for a 3D printer to handle).\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n4771,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user41485,1.0891412423578797,3.09461209787822,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,How is FDM Better than CBAM?,\"So there is a company called impossible objects that use CBAM technology witch the description can be found here http://impossible-objects.com/technology/ I am pretty sure that they are the only ones using this process, I want to know why. CBAM makes stronger material out of carbon fiber in a very sophisticated process stronger than FDM(Fused Deposition Modeling). This is interesting and I want to know why. I understand the process but not the pros and cons.\n\",Steve-O-Rama,\"Well the CBAM stuff is SUPER new, requires a lot more work done by hand (currently), and is going to be WAY expensive compared to widely used FDM machines.\n\nSeems to me like a carbon fiber mixed filament is a cheaper way to go, with a possible annealing process to get the tensile strength up post-print.\n\nTry locating a CBAM printer for $200! Maybe if the process becomes quicker, and the machines/materials cheaper to purchase, we could be using this method more in the future. I feel that we will likely advance the materials we have with FDM much faster than this other process would catch on and become affordable.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n4774,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris,2.528907649931287,4.207875721687259,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Prusa i3 - First layer does not stick and looks jagged,\"My first layer is suddenly not sticking for every new print I'm trying. When it lays down the first layer it has this weird jaggedness to it, doesn't firmly stick to the plate, and gets dragged by the nozzle. I've printed previously successful prints without an issue, but any new print I export from Cura is having this issue. I'm using the same profile that I do for the previously successful ones. \n\nMy relevant print settings are:\n\n\nMaterial: PLA\nLayer height: .2mm\nHotend: 205c\nPlate: 60c\nFan cooling: 50%\nSpeed: 60mm/s\n\n\n\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Your nozzle is too far from the build plate. You should make some changes to bring the nozzle closer to the build plate for the first layer. There are a number of possibilities for doing this:\n\n\nAdjust the Z-axis endstop\nLoosen the bed leveling screws\nAdd an offset in G-code\n\n\nThis will squish the plastic down more, enabling it to stick to the build plate.\n\nWith solution (3), you have to be careful that you don't crash into the endstop. This solution works best if your printer homes towards max (and not min) or if you have non-mechanical (hall or optical) endstops.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n5588,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris,2.1782824847157594,4.754356729115745,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Prusa I3 - Burn marks on print,\"This is an issue that's started happening recently. This is a Prusa I3 using a 1.75mm pla filament\n\nThe settings for this print are as follows\n\nLayer height: 0.2mm\nLine width: 0.4\nInfill: 60%\nInfill pattern: Triangles\nNozzle temp: 190C\nPlate temp: 60C\nRetraction distance: 8.5mm\nRetraction speed: 60mm/s\nPrint speed: 50mm/s\nCooling fan speed: 20%\n\n\nThis happened on a previous print, but not as much. The only difference is the other print was printed 10mm/s faster. I'm thinking it has to do with too much time in a certain area since it seems to happen in pretty small areas that don't required infill and print as two walls back to back \n\n\n\",David Lotts,\"I have seen this after I reassemble the extruder heat block and then leave it too loose during the print.\n\nIs your extruder above the nozzle coated in a brown or black film?\n\nWhat happens is the liquid plastic oozes through the loose connection, travels around the outside of the block, where it is heated longer and hotter than normal turning it black/brown. Then it drips, or flakes, into the print where it is spread around giving it a diffused look that you see.\n\nThe fix is to tighten the heating block. Do this while it is at operating temperature (be careful!) because it fits differently when cold.\n\nAnother cause: I made a tiny sharpie mark on my filament. I did not realize how concentrated it would come out in the print. Perhaps you have ink or adhesive or something on your filament that you can't see that turns brown when heated. \n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n4778,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,AsafB,2.1782824847157594,4.764805449385367,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.551027839747059,Temperature problems after switching to RAMPS 1.4,\"I recently switched to a RAMPS 1.4 on an Arduino Mega 2560.\nEver since I have extruder temperature swings a couple of minutes into the print, but it looks like a problem reading the temp rather than actual fluctuations in the temperature (as can be seen in the attached pic).\nAlso, I've noticed that the MOSFET is getting really hot when I heat the heated bed.\n\nWhat is the problem and how can I fix it?\n\n\n\",Steve-O-Rama,\"For the overheating, you may need to turn the juice down a little on your Power Supply. Typically, there is a potentiometer inside that trims the voltage level coming from there. Some things can heat up if it's over-volting and needing to drop more voltage for the board.\n\nFor the temperature reading stuff, make sure the thermistor is plugged in all way and not possibly dangling near the hot-end block. I have had that happen before and it will report improper temperatures as it goes along, and often results in the hot-end getting too hot and messing with the filament. If it's properly secured it might be just crappy or broken in some other way and you would need to replace it. It's reasonable practice to have a few extra thermistors lying around as having them go out at lousy times will bum you out.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4778,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,AsafB,2.1782824847157594,4.764805449385367,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.551027839747059,Temperature problems after switching to RAMPS 1.4,\"I recently switched to a RAMPS 1.4 on an Arduino Mega 2560.\nEver since I have extruder temperature swings a couple of minutes into the print, but it looks like a problem reading the temp rather than actual fluctuations in the temperature (as can be seen in the attached pic).\nAlso, I've noticed that the MOSFET is getting really hot when I heat the heated bed.\n\nWhat is the problem and how can I fix it?\n\n\n\",nabzim,\"For the really hot mosfet I would say it might be a good idea to get one of those external mosfet module boards. It just seems like a good idea to me, to not have the huge current of the bed-heater flowing through the ramps board. And for the thermistor wires, do you have them twisted together? If not, try tightly twisting the pair (of + & -) together to ensure there is no interference from other signals. Careful not to put stress on where the wires are attached to the actual thermistor-head. Honestly, all of your wiring should be in twisted-pair configuration. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twisted_pair\n\",0.0,0.0\n4781,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dylan Rollins Garfield,1.726248027126092,4.475547997995099,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Could I 3D print an airbrush?,\"Could I 3D model and print a working airbrush in\nPLA?\n\",Steve-O-Rama,\"The problem with this I see is that the PLA takes and holds paint super well. I have painted it with acrylic a lot and it works great for models you want painted after printing.\n\nI know next to nothing about airbrushing, but it seems to me like keeping a printed airbrush clean for re-use would be a big pain. It looks like they make the pro airbrushes with some kind of stainless steel most likely for the non-sticking purposes of re-use, which PLA just won't have.\n\nThat being said, don't be afraid to model it and try! I would make a suggestion that you switch to ABS and then do a vapor bath on the result to smooth out the material and possibly make it easier to clean excess paint out of.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4784,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,RedCrystalSword,0.0,3.3206222047196907,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,Good Designing Software for cheap,\"So I've seen some very good design software, but almost all of it is very expensive. I'm just wondering if there's a good cheap design software out there.\n\",tjb1,\"OnShape is free for students and the public and is very similar to Fusion 360. It works online on almost any device and was built by some of the engineers from Solidworks. Free accounts can not have any private documents so anyone can see your design. If you know how to use Solidworks/Inventor you will be able to pickup Fusion 360/OnShape very quickly.\n\nOpenSCAD is also free but works through its own programming language. It requires a strong math background and some understanding of programming to use as it has no GUI tools.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4784,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,RedCrystalSword,0.0,3.3206222047196907,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,Good Designing Software for cheap,\"So I've seen some very good design software, but almost all of it is very expensive. I'm just wondering if there's a good cheap design software out there.\n\",Mick,\"Try Fusion 360. It's free for educators, students, enthusiasts and start-ups. It's not 100% intuitive, but once you learn the basics, it probably has all the facilities that you will ever need for mechanical design.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n4799,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,RedCrystalSword,1.726248027126092,2.8568583264187786,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Cura going to 204C instead of 200C,\"So I started using Cura a few weeks ago, and when I print it goes to 204 Celsius instead of 200. It doesn't really affect my print quality but I just want to know if there's a fix for it. My printer is a Da Vinci Jr 1.0.\n\",joshConway,\"That's called PID overshoot. All control loops have varying types of outliers like this. Sometimes, you can't overshoot, sometimes you cant undershoot. But it's a remnant of the math. \n\nThe solution here, is to PID Tune. Once you get an established Kp Ki and Kd constants, then you can either save it to eeprom or you can recompile your firmware with this change.\n\nIt's pretty common, especially if you have different hotends without known profiles. PID tuning also works on heated beds as well. But usually those use what's called Bang-bang.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4799,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,RedCrystalSword,1.726248027126092,2.8568583264187786,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Cura going to 204C instead of 200C,\"So I started using Cura a few weeks ago, and when I print it goes to 204 Celsius instead of 200. It doesn't really affect my print quality but I just want to know if there's a fix for it. My printer is a Da Vinci Jr 1.0.\n\",C. Hediger,\"Its mainly due to the regulation loop of the PID Regulator implemented in the Firmware of the Da vinci jr. The P-Factor is a little bit too high. This is the reason why the temperature \"\"overshoots\"\". Because the Printerhead and Nozzle has some volume which is heated up. It takes time to cool down after it has detected an overshoot. \n\nhere you can find additional informations about it: https://innovativecontrols.com/blog/basics-tuning-pid-loops\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4794,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Veysel Hizel,1.726248027126092,3.856325384931162,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Why Cura flattens first layer of round objects?,\"When i am creating g file with Cura, it always flattens the first layer of round edges touching the plate. Is problem Cura or is there any setting that i can solve this?\n\nThanks,\nVeysel :)\n\n\n\",Mick,\"All models must be sliced horizontally into layers in order to be printed, and each layer is flat. That is simply the bottom layer. Since you are printing a cylinder, you could always rotate it by 90 degrees, and stand it on its end (before you slice it, naturally). You should always consider the best orientation for printing any model.\n\nAlso, if you print a cylinder on its side, the slicer will need to generate a lot of support structures to support the lower curved surfaces. By printing a cylinder on its end, no support should be required.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n4804,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ljk2000,2.1782824847157594,4.797084452871923,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Printing threads,\"I am re-writing this question because, well, it needs to be updated.\n\nI have the Anet A6, but in a general sense of things, what kind of threads can I produce before it no longer works? \n\",user802599,\"I have found that I get slightly different results with different printers and different plastics and print temperatures. For doing parts like nuts and bolts you will probably have to print several prototype parts once you get your printer to get the setting and tolerances right, once you get a print. But just decreasing the layer height and getting the nozzle temp and cooling right should let you get some working parts.\n\n You can get the sloped surfaces the still look ok but are not dimensional accurate with to high an angle. I find if is easiest to print and then test and then adjust the tolerances on the design.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4804,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ljk2000,2.1782824847157594,4.797084452871923,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Printing threads,\"I am re-writing this question because, well, it needs to be updated.\n\nI have the Anet A6, but in a general sense of things, what kind of threads can I produce before it no longer works? \n\",Davo,\"This depends on the nozzle diameter, the layer thickness, and the material. \n\nI've made very good M8 and acceptable M6 threads (nut and bolt) at 0.2mm layers with a 0.5mm nozzle, out of ABS, and also out of PETG. \n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4843,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ljk2000,1.0891412423578797,2.8245194970758165,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,A free simulation program,\"With some of the items I am designing I would love to put them through a simulation. Like crushing, for example. I want to know how well my object can handle any situation I put it through so I can make changes before I print out the object, only to find out there was a weak spot. \n\nI have been trying to learn para-view but it is a little complicated off the bat, I would like something easy to use. \n\nIf anybody knows of a a program that would be fantastic! \n\",Mick,\"Fusion 360 will do finite element analysis (simulation), although I haven't used it. Whether it will perform the type of analysis that you are looking for, I do not know. Check Autodesk's tutorials.\n\nOne problem that you will encounter is that items printed using FDM technology are highly anisotropic. In other words, they have a grain, and are stronger/weaker in some directions than in others. I do not think that Fusion 360 can take account of that in its analysis.\n\nAutodesk: Fusion 360\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n5198,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ljk2000,2.1782824847157594,3.0241567845277415,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Flexible filament frozen,\"I was thinking about what would happen when flexible filament is frozen. Would it become brittle or still be rather tough*. A situation I think of would be a ice tray in the freezer. It is nice to have some flex to get the ice out, but PLA and other filaments wouldn't work, but will flexible filament work?\n\n*when I say 'tough' I mean having similar properties when unfrozen.\n\",mac,\"The behaviour of \"\"frozen filament\"\" will entirely depend from the specific formulation of it.\n\nThe term \"\"flexible filament\"\" encompasses a variety of different polymers as for example: thermoplastic elastomers like TPE and TPU (e.g.: ninjaflex), copolymers (e.g.: bendlay), copolyesters (e.g.: Ngen Flex), polycaprolactones (e.g.: PCL), etc...\n\nEven in those broad classes of chemicals, the amount, type and quality of additives will affect the physical properties of the filament a lot. In fact rigid.ink even produces a flexible PLA that proves the point of additives radically affecting the properties of the main material.\n\nIn general, all materials lose elasticity at lower temperatures (a Space Shuttle came down because engineers failed to account for this). Polymers that do not contain water are unlikely to crystallise though, so I would expect it to become stiffer but not to fail catastrophically at 0°C.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5224,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ljk2000,2.528907649931287,4.597516961744042,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Problems with feeding the filament into the bowden tube,\"I just finished building my Anet A6 and I was working on inserting some filament into the extruder. It was very difficult to get the filament to go in the hole (past the gears to go down to the hot-end). What can I do that will make it easier to get the filament into the hole (I tried cutting the tip at a angle)? \n\",mac,\"What you are after is a small common mod called... filament guide (as your question title!).\n\nThe first one to pop up in my google search was this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:346736 which in turn is a make of this model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2242903\n\nAlso, a couple of tricks that help on my printers (YMMV):\n\n\nmanually straighten the first few cm filament before inserting it into the extruder (e.g.: remove the natural bend that is there because the filament came off a round spool by bending it in the opposite direction)\nwhen the filament is past the gears/cogs, while still keeping the cogs \"\"open\"\" (i.e.: not yet clamping the filament), twist/roll the filament between your finger.\nsharpen the tip of your filament with a pencil sharpener. This make so that the tip of it is at the very centre of the hole, rather than at its edge.\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5338,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ljk2000,2.8153892694839717,5.879236845214241,0.0,5.199501240805782,3.0574377365420307,2.5570684596094884,Adhesion problems with masking tape,\"I have been playing around with the bed for a while and I still can't get the first layer to stick properly. I think I am getting the bed leveled good, I use the paper method. But yet I find myself with the filament lifting off and getting pulled away with the nozzle or some balling in rare situations. \n\nI use masking tape, which I found for $3 at Dollar general. I heard something about shine being a factor, but why is that important? And is more expensive masking tape worth it? I don't want to buy it because I would hate for it to tear when I take off a print. \n\nI also use some glue stick, which seems to sometimes not help, almost like it doesn't allow the filament to stick. I don't think I was adding too much, maybe I was. But is glue stick needed? Does it really make that much of a difference?\n\nSo other than that I don't know what to try. I can't get the first layer to work properly. Maybe it is my speed, what is a good speed to print at for the first layer, I am doing 60 mm/s, just like the rest of my print. \n\nAny advice from there with first layers would be great. I am tired of wasting time and filament over failed first layers. But when I do get the first layer done, the second+ layers all work fine, no issues. \n\nHere are the specs of my printer, that should be helpful for people:\n\n\nPrinter --> Anet A6\nPrint area --> 220 x 220 mm\nHeated bed? --> Yes\nBed temp --> 50°C\nI use masking tape on bed\nnozzle dia. --> 0.4mm\nNozzle temp --> 210°C\nPrint speed --> 60 mm\nMaterial of choice --> PLA\nFan is on after 3 layers\n\n\nI think that covers everything, Let me know if I need to add anything else.\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"@ljk2000 I'm Using Masking tape with no problems, your parameters are OK and just need to sand the surface before sending to print, use sand paper #120 or 150. The firts layer height is 0.18mm to 0.25 mm. The masking tape can be used for a lot of prints, you can change it every week to keep a good adhesion.\n\nI found that not all brands works fine, for example TUK has a good adhesion and can be used for several prints. 3M has an stronger adhesion but is needed to sand on 100% area and can be used only for one printing. Jevelin has a good adhesion but, if the heat bed is above 40°C this masking tape starts to peel off. and the other ones might have the same issue near to 50°C or more.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5338,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ljk2000,2.8153892694839717,5.879236845214241,0.0,5.199501240805782,3.0574377365420307,2.5570684596094884,Adhesion problems with masking tape,\"I have been playing around with the bed for a while and I still can't get the first layer to stick properly. I think I am getting the bed leveled good, I use the paper method. But yet I find myself with the filament lifting off and getting pulled away with the nozzle or some balling in rare situations. \n\nI use masking tape, which I found for $3 at Dollar general. I heard something about shine being a factor, but why is that important? And is more expensive masking tape worth it? I don't want to buy it because I would hate for it to tear when I take off a print. \n\nI also use some glue stick, which seems to sometimes not help, almost like it doesn't allow the filament to stick. I don't think I was adding too much, maybe I was. But is glue stick needed? Does it really make that much of a difference?\n\nSo other than that I don't know what to try. I can't get the first layer to work properly. Maybe it is my speed, what is a good speed to print at for the first layer, I am doing 60 mm/s, just like the rest of my print. \n\nAny advice from there with first layers would be great. I am tired of wasting time and filament over failed first layers. But when I do get the first layer done, the second+ layers all work fine, no issues. \n\nHere are the specs of my printer, that should be helpful for people:\n\n\nPrinter --> Anet A6\nPrint area --> 220 x 220 mm\nHeated bed? --> Yes\nBed temp --> 50°C\nI use masking tape on bed\nnozzle dia. --> 0.4mm\nNozzle temp --> 210°C\nPrint speed --> 60 mm\nMaterial of choice --> PLA\nFan is on after 3 layers\n\n\nI think that covers everything, Let me know if I need to add anything else.\n\",Mick,\"Masking tape (and blue painter's tape) is coated with a wax-based release agent in order to prevent the tape sticking to itself on the roll. This release agent must be removed with an organic solvent in order to obtain good adhesion. Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol is good for this. Acetone will also work, but it is a much stronger solvent (which is not necessarily a good thing).\n\nFor blue painter's tape, rub freshly applied tape with solvent until the blue dye starts coming off. Then give it a quick wipe between prints to remove any fingerprints, etc.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n5351,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ljk2000,2.8153892694839717,3.178518415635008,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Over-hangs in prints,\"I would like to ask this in more of a general sense than anything, just for people to make note.\n\nI am printing out things for people and some files have some edges hanging out the side. I always worry, since it is printing in mid air, that it would screw up the print. But I was able to go, maybe 1mm(I am not to good with metric when it comes to guessing). My question is, how far at 90* from a wall can a printer pull off before it is necessary to have support? This would help me when slicing up files. \n\",Sean Houlihane,\"To add to what mac described, there are small detail effects which sometimes change the behaviour of an overhang (and not necessarily in a predictable manner).\n\nConcave overhangs might sag (rather than turn out like a bridge).\nConvex overhangs might pull tight.\nCooling plastic tends to shrink,so might sag less.\n\nI'm often surprised how well overhangs turn out, but equally often see failures which I don't anticipate.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5351,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ljk2000,2.8153892694839717,3.178518415635008,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Over-hangs in prints,\"I would like to ask this in more of a general sense than anything, just for people to make note.\n\nI am printing out things for people and some files have some edges hanging out the side. I always worry, since it is printing in mid air, that it would screw up the print. But I was able to go, maybe 1mm(I am not to good with metric when it comes to guessing). My question is, how far at 90* from a wall can a printer pull off before it is necessary to have support? This would help me when slicing up files. \n\",mac,\"If I understand correctly, your question is specifically for overhangs at 90° (so an horizontal plane that has no support under it.\n\nThe first to notice is that you can only pull this off if the extrusion happens perpendicular to the surface from which the overhang is coming off (the closest to 90° the better) as effectively what is happening is that you are building a cantilever structure as you extrude.\n\nIf you think about it in terms of a cantilever structure you will quickly realise that the stiffer the structure, the furthest you can go without it drooping. The main parameters you can tweak to increase the stiffness are:\n\n\nCooling. The cooler the plastic, the stiffer it is, so crank the cooling part fan up to 100%!\nSpeed. Plastic need time to cool off, so the slower you print (within reasonable limits), the more time you will allow for plastic to cool under the fan. On my rig I seem to get the best result between 15 and 20mm/s, but your mileage may vary, obviously.\nLayer height. The thicker the layer, the more weight it will bear before drooping, so higher layers work best. A slicer that is very convenient to use for prints that have a couple of overhangs like these is slic3r PE, as you can vary the height of the layers at specific points in the print.\nMaterial. Some materials are more rigid than others. PLA is probably the one that works best for overhangs. PETG and Nylon are somewhat more problematic, and flexible filaments are the ones being more difficult to use.\n\n\nFor bridges (unsupported filament extruded between two supported structures) the considerations are identical but for speed: in my experience having the speed not too low helps the nozzle keep tension in the extruded filament by \"\"pulling\"\" it and keeping it horizontal. But again: each printer, firmware and slicer is different, and you should experiment yourself to see what works for you.\n\nTo sum this up: \"\"how far you can go before needing support\"\" is a question that cannot be answered with a fixed number as the answer depends from a lot of factors that vary from printer to printer and material to material. Without mentioning: how many defects you are happy to tolerate before calling the print a failure.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n5366,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ljk2000,2.1782824847157594,4.154678640101863,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Anet A6 fan issues,\"I just noticed, and I KNOW it was not a problem before. But recently the fan that blows over the nozzle has been acting funny. I have it set to start blowing after 3 layers, and then turn on at 100%. I decided to watch so I can give more information and what I found...\n\nAfter 3 layers, it does seem to start, very slow, barely moves. After a little bit it stops moving all together. After a short amount of time (I was elsewhere for a min) it got really warm. So I think it is putting current through the fan. I gave it a small turn and it started to speed up like it should have. And this is every time.\n\nDo I need to replace the fan or something else wrong with this? What kind of fan do I replace this with?\n\",mac,\"It is impossible to say with certainty without a tester, but my educated guess is that some of the induction coils in the motor are broken.\n\nElectrical motors that need to spin in a defined direction have multiple sets of coils (thing \"\"magnets\"\"), so that at any given moment the rotor will be pulled (more strongly) in one direction than the opposite one, thus determining the direction the motor will spin.\n\nFrom the description of your symptoms, it seems that one or more of these coils have broken, and now the fan can stall in one specific point, as it misses the \"\"pulling\"\" force that should move the motor past that point.\n\nIf you spin the fan manually, the momentum of the fan will allow the blades to move past that static equilibrium point and reach the next position where the working set(s) of coils will begin to pull it again.\n\nWhile theoretically it is possible to open the motor, do some testing and fixing this, to all practical effects is much more effective to just replace the part (which is a regular fan for computer CPUs).\n\nI don't own an Anet A6, but from a quick googling it seems the correct one would be a 40mm one rated for 5v (albeit I found a link suggesting a 12v instead). My suggestion is to simply look at the specifications of the fan you have now. The specifications are normally on a sticker at the very centre of it (the side with the sticker may be facing the extruder, so you may need to unscrew the fan first).\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5389,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ljk2000,2.1782824847157594,6.300129095146286,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.929104701733314,3.585260288142579,\"What causes \"\"ghosting\"\"?\",\"I am printing some minion chess pieces for my teacher at school and on every model I have found something called \"\"ghosting\"\", or at least I heard that is what it is called. For example there is a strap on the model for the pants. And going left and right there is very shallow \"\"straps\"\" or something happening. \n\nI am interested to know what causes this to happen and how to fix it. It is not super bad, but would be nice to fix.\n\",mac,\"Ghosting is an artefact in the print due to the vibrations in the printer that are induced by rapid changes of direction. It is important not to confuse them with inherent vibrations in the printer due for example to the belts being loose or the bearings not being in perfect order.\n\nThe good news is that it is relatively easy to tell them apart: ghosting (also known as \"\"ringing\"\" or \"\"ripples\"\" or \"\"waves\"\" or a number of other names...) is always downstream of a change of direction, and fades rapidly.\n\n\n\nInherent vibrations - on the other hand - tend to be consistently present when printing along a given direction, and do not fade.\n\n\n\nMechanically, ghosting works like this:\n\n\nThe moving part is travelling along - for example - the x-axis, when suddenly the direction of movement becomes the y-axis.\nAt that moment, the stepper motor of the x-axis stop rotating, but the momentum of the moving part stretches the belt even so slightly past the intended stop point.\nAt this moment the belt becomes like a rubber bend / spring, absorbs the kinetic energy of the moving mass and releases it by \"\"throwing\"\" it past the intended stop point in the other direction.\nThis keeps on repeating a number of times, but at each pass, some of the energy is dissipated, and the moving mass moves less end less away from the ideal stopping point.\nWhile all of the above is happening, the object has also begun to move along the y-axis, so the extruded plastic looks \"\"weavey\"\" along the y-axis.\n\n\nUnderstanding how this process works, makes it possible to understan why the three main factors affecting ghosting are:\n\n\nThe amount of mass being moved\nThe speed, acceleration and jerk settings\nThe elasticity of the mechanical components\n\n\nNamely, mass and speed are important because their product is the momentum. That in turn means that diminishing either one of the two will reduce the amount of \"\"overshooting\"\" past the stopping point.\n\nElasticity of the mechanical components is important as the more flex/stretch the part can take for a given amount of force, the more overshooting a given momentum will result in.\n\nFinally, acceleration and jerk are important because - simplifying things a bit - the faster the change of direction happens, the less time the system has to adjust without vibrating.\n\nSo, concretely... what can you do to fix/reduce ghosting? Three things, of course! :)\n\n\nReduce the mass being moved. Depending on the geometry of your printer, the mass being moved could be the bed+print, the printing head, or an entire gantry. These are normally considerations done when designing the printer itself, and engineers normally mitigate problems by using lighter materials (plastic over metal, aluminium or carbon fiber over steel, etc...), or adopting different designs (like using a Bowden extruder instead of a direct one, to save the weight of the stepper motor).\nReduce speed, acceleration and/or jerk. Speed is normally the safest bet, as - besides your prints taking longer - there is really no penalty for it. Acceleration and jerk - on the other hand - can cause overestrusion at sharp corners.\nReduce the elasticity of the system. This is commonly achieved by tightening the belts and eventually switching to more rigid rods / tracks / rails.\n\n\nA couple of resources that may come in handy for you to understand and solve the problem better:\n\n\nA really nice article with illustrations (two of which I \"\"stole\"\" for this post)\nA test model specifically designed to highlight any possible ringing problem with the printer.\nA video showing lots of different test prints done with various settings (very useful to understand how changing the above parameters affects the print).\n\n\",3.367452517504837,2.0769199823829045\n5389,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ljk2000,2.1782824847157594,6.300129095146286,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.929104701733314,3.585260288142579,\"What causes \"\"ghosting\"\"?\",\"I am printing some minion chess pieces for my teacher at school and on every model I have found something called \"\"ghosting\"\", or at least I heard that is what it is called. For example there is a strap on the model for the pants. And going left and right there is very shallow \"\"straps\"\" or something happening. \n\nI am interested to know what causes this to happen and how to fix it. It is not super bad, but would be nice to fix.\n\",Terry,\"To expand on the #3 solution: reducing the elasticity of the system, if you have your filament mounted on the top of your printer, placing the filament elsewhere on a separate spool holder can also reduce ghosting. Tightening the belts and moving my filament got rid of ghosting for me on my MP Maker Select.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5486,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ljk2000,1.726248027126092,4.508373539339313,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Anet A6 heat bed stopped working,\"Just last night the heat bed stopped working. It was fine up to 75 % of the print, then when it was done the bed was not on anymore. The display said it was set to 50 °C, but it was at 18 °C. I did try moving the pins, and that is not loose (very simple thing to try). \n\nI want to know what could have happened and what to look for when I try to fix the heat bed. \n\nPlease note: I do have a multi-meter. I do not use a MOSFET (I do have plans to install on)\n\nUpon further investigation, I tested the mother board for any voltage were the bed hooks up and there is nothing. I had the printer trying to heat the bed when I was testing. But the thermistor is working, when I unhooked the connection the thermistor went to 0 °C, when plugged in it went to 18 °C. \n\nIs it the motherboard? How can I fix this knowing no power is being supplied to the bed from the motherboard? Do I need a new motherboard?\n\",mac,\"This is a shot in the dark, but the vast majority of problems with a heating bed stopping to work is usually at the cables/connectors interface.\n\nThis is because in printers like the A6, the cable/connector is subject to constant mechanical stress, and - since metal fatigue is a thing - either the solder or the cable core cracks.\n\nYou should make good use of your tester to verify the integrity of the circuit in the bed and if it is not toasted you should be able to just repair the connection.\n\nFor many printers there exist \"\"strain relief mods\"\" to prevent this type of failure to happen. The first one showing up for the A6 is a full chain, but normally is enough the have a small enclosure for the connector like this one for the CR-10.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5486,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ljk2000,1.726248027126092,4.508373539339313,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Anet A6 heat bed stopped working,\"Just last night the heat bed stopped working. It was fine up to 75 % of the print, then when it was done the bed was not on anymore. The display said it was set to 50 °C, but it was at 18 °C. I did try moving the pins, and that is not loose (very simple thing to try). \n\nI want to know what could have happened and what to look for when I try to fix the heat bed. \n\nPlease note: I do have a multi-meter. I do not use a MOSFET (I do have plans to install on)\n\nUpon further investigation, I tested the mother board for any voltage were the bed hooks up and there is nothing. I had the printer trying to heat the bed when I was testing. But the thermistor is working, when I unhooked the connection the thermistor went to 0 °C, when plugged in it went to 18 °C. \n\nIs it the motherboard? How can I fix this knowing no power is being supplied to the bed from the motherboard? Do I need a new motherboard?\n\",SuperAl,\"The bed stopped working yesterday. I used the multimeter on the bed plug. The bed heater reads 1.7-1.8 Ohm.\n\nThere was no 12 V supplied from the mainboard and I read its terminals. There were 12 V there. I tightened the screws and the plug received 12 V.\n\nThe bed heated for one print. Today I repeated the troubleshooting and found that the bed plug still had 12 V. When I pulled it, the Red terminal was burnt and melted into the plug. After cleaning it by inserting and removing it several times, the bed started working again. The Red and Black wires are hot to touch though.\n\nThis is the troubleshooting procedure one should follow. What remains to be confirmed is whether the resistance of the bed heater is correct; 1.8 Ohm at 12 V is about 80 W. Sounds about right, so the wires should not overheat.\n\nI suspected a possibility of the shorting to the aluminum bed, but then the bed would be heated only in some areas, but mine is heated evenly across the entire surface area.\n\nEdit: For now I ended up cutting the Red wire's terminal from the plug and soldering the wire directly to the bed. I might order the new bed harness from Anet, or not.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5487,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ljk2000,2.8153892694839717,2.8673070466884,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Belt Tensioning,\"I have printed off some upgrades for my Anet A6 for tensioning the belt on the Y and X axis. I was wondering how much deflection the belt should have. I would think being to tight will stress the machine. \n\",Ljk2000,\"I wanted to know the proper deflection I should have on the belt. What I have read is for every inch of belt (25.4mm) it should deflect 1/64 of a inch (.4mm).\n\nI found this information on this Website. \n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5492,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ljk2000,2.8153892694839717,5.226754309973381,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Getting PLA to stick to a cold bed,\"Right now my heated bed is down and I had no time to try and fix it and I am trying to print something for a friend. I am having the PLA lift around the edges which I have NEVER experienced. The glue is not helping like it did with the heat. And I also tried rubbing alcohol on the masking tape I use, heard that helps and it was not that much better than the glue stick. What can I do to keep the plastic sticking to the bed during print. \n\nI will note that the lift is not super bad, but I do like the littlest of lift on any print. \n\",mac,\"Most of the same reccomendations that apply for adhesion to a hot bed apply for a cold one. The first ones to come to mind:\n\n\nreally dial in the nozzle height\nmake the first layer taller than the rest (e.g.: 0.2mm if the rest of your print is 0.1mm)\nprint the first layer very slowly\nprint the first layer at higher temperature\nuse a brim or a raft (on my first printer, that had no heated bed, rafts gave the least deformation)\nturn off the part fan for the first layer\nadapt your model to reduce twisting forces (relief cuts, print it in parts, choose orientation wisely, etc...)\n\n\nIf your slicer has this feature, you could also try to print with a shroud.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n5500,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ljk2000,3.267423727073639,3.178518415635008,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,Mending filament?,\"While I don't think this is easily possible I am wondering if it can be done. So my spool of filament had a tangle and got pulled into the printer head. Some got melted together and after cutting I have a few strands. Would it be possible to mend the ends together to make one continuous strand instead of many small strand?\n\",Davo,\"Sure, but you need to be careful not to have wide or narrow spots. A fixture for this is probably better than freehand welding.\n\nSee some ideas for a homemade fuser at https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/how-to-join-or-fuse-filament-together \n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n5500,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ljk2000,3.267423727073639,3.178518415635008,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,Mending filament?,\"While I don't think this is easily possible I am wondering if it can be done. So my spool of filament had a tangle and got pulled into the printer head. Some got melted together and after cutting I have a few strands. Would it be possible to mend the ends together to make one continuous strand instead of many small strand?\n\",mac,\"As @davo says in his answer, this can be done rather easily, but the main problem with this kind of approach is reliability of the joint: sure, it must last only a short time, but during that time it will have to survive bending through your bowden tube (if applicable) and withstanding the grinding of the hobbed gear pushing it through the extruder.\n\nI personally only used the PTFE method (plus heat gun), which is substantially identical to the tinfoil one outlined in the link provided by @davo but here's a couple of observations:\n\n\nFreshly cut filament seem to work best. I guess this is because there is less chances for contaminants like dust, skin oil etc... to find their way to the surfaces you are trying to bond.\nI had no problem melting together PLAs of different brands.\nYou may have to tune the flow \"\"on the fly\"\" via the knob on the printer to accommodate for different diameters between the two spools you spliced (not applicable to your specific case of \"\"plastic surgery\"\" (pun intended!) on the same spool.\nI find the bond works best if the two filaments are cut at an angle (so that the actual bonding surface is larger)\nA light sanding to smooth out any seam and reduce the diameter of melted part a bit is in order\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5505,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ljk2000,2.1782824847157594,4.336783384629063,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Printing with HDPE plastic,\"Just out of curiosity is it possible to print with HDPE? \n\nWould it be easy or hard? \n\nI know they don't make HDPE filament* but I know people with a filament extruder could make some HDPE because it is a common plastic, which means it can be given a second use or something.\n\n*To my knowledge\n\",mac,\"It can be done, although PE is not the best material to 3D print, as it has very low melting point (HDPE is just over 100°C), it is unpleasantly waxy to the touch and needs specialised paints and glues.\n\nI never tried myself, but I know the RecycleBot is supposed to be able to use PE waste to produce a filament.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5539,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ljk2000,1.0891412423578797,3.235319671822568,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Under-extrusion in vase mode,\"So I found a vase on thingiverse and I wanted to print it, so obviously I did. I used craft ware to slice the model using there 'vase mode', and sent the Gcode to my Anet A6 printer. In the end I found weird underextrusion (I think that is what happened) at the starting points that seem to have appeared. I don't know what to think of this and I don't know what happened or how to fix it. \n\n\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"This sort of failure is best diagnosed by observing the failure. It probably isn't underextrusion, there is no reason to get variation in extrusion just along one edge.\n\nDid you really get a proper vase-mode? You can check in your slicer, or with gcode.ws and make sure that each layer only occupies a fraction of the part, with many small steps (rather than one step after printing a slice of the whole part)\n\nIt seems the failure is close to a sharp transition in the wall. Have you got enough cooling, or a low enough extrusion temperature? It could be that the plastic viscosity and surface tension are conspiring against the shape. Printing slower might possibly help too (both on the failure, and to allow the part to cool between layers).\n\nFinally, you might have a mechanical problem which is interfering with the print just at this point, and that might include the extruder binding in some way. This could be hard to spot during the print, so check over all the moving parts, and all the fixings.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5552,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ljk2000,2.8153892694839717,3.873224462884129,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Square and parallel infill patterns,\"I don't know how to word this right now but I am going to try my best... moving on!\n\nSo I was playing with my slicing software (Craftware) and I was looking at two infill patterns, Square and Parallel. When looking at strength, print quality, and time does Square really benefit a whole lot over parallel? I ask because Parallel does not use near the filament and has less contact points on the model. I provided pictures of both to give a visual. Can I use parallel and still get super strong and good looking parts?\n\n\nParallel infill pattern\n\n\nSquare infill pattern\n\nIf I didn't include something or not making sense ask in the comments and I will answer/edit as needed. Thank you!\n\",mac,\"\n ... does Square really benefit a whole lot over parallel?\n\n\nThat would depend by the definition of \"\"a whole lot\"\", of course! :)\n\nStrength\n\nGenerally speaking, the variable you want to operate to tweak the overall sturdiness of your part is not the type of infill, but rather its density. According to the literature I have access to, sturdiness grow fast until about 60 % infill, then the gains become progressively more marginal.\n\nDifferent types of infill modify the way the part reacts to stresses. The two you showcased, for example, are strongly anisotropic: a part with those infill will resist a lot more to stresses along the Z axis than along either the X or Y ones.\n\nAlso, relative to the squared infill pattern, my experience is that parts with a parallel infill pattern typically have a bit more give when squashed.\n\nIn case you wonder: cubic, cubic subdivision (and solid) infills are those regarded as offering the most equal resistance along all axis.\n\nHowever, the way the infill will affect rigidity and sturdiness of a part is as much dependent from the type of filament and the shape of the part as much as from the infill settings, so - if you are after precise numbers - you should most definitely run some tests.\n\nTime\n\nThat depends entirely from the part shape and size.\n\nTypically, a printer will spend most of its time printing the shell. This is due both to the settings (you want to go slow on the shell to increase quality) and to physics, the shell typically requiring many more changes of direction (and thus accelerations and decelerations) than the infill.\n\nSo, even if the parallel infill requires about half the work of the squared one (50 % faster), in a small print with a sparse infill, the total time spent doing infill may be 10 %, thus the net gain would be only 5 % of the total printing time.\n\nQuality\n\nThis is very printer-dependent. For me, when printing with two shells, I can't tell the difference on any infill. For the top layer, the quality is affected more by infill density than type (with the filament sagging slightly between walls if the infill is very sparse).\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n5602,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ljk2000,2.8153892694839717,4.290430848711125,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Adding a filament sensor,\"I have the Anet A6 and I was wondering if it is possible to add a filament run-out sensor. I would feel better having something to stop the filament before it runs through and I have to take apart the extruder. \n\",profesor79,\"With marlin firmware:\n\nsource here: filiament sensor config\n\n//#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR\n#if ENABLED(FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR)\n #define FIL_RUNOUT_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the sensor.\n #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_FIL_RUNOUT // Uncomment to use internal pullup for filament runout pins if the sensor is defined.\n #define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SCRIPT \"\"M600\"\"\n#endif\n\n\n\n With this feature, a mechanical or opto endstop switch is used to\n check for the presence of filament in the feeder (usually the switch\n is closed when filament is present). If the filament runs out, Marlin\n will run the specified GCode script (by default “M600”). RAMPS-based\n boards use SERVO3_PIN. For other boards you may need to define\n FIL_RUNOUT_PIN.\n\n\nand this is a nice piece of hardware: run out sensor\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5625,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ljk2000,2.528907649931287,5.041432142598752,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.9505769891325135,Why the Anet A6 can't do .05 layer height,\"So like I sayed in the title, Why can't the Anet A6 do .05 layer height? I found that some printers can do .05 layer heights, but the Anet A6 can't? I am interested to know if it is the stepper motors or the threaded rods or something. Maybe this is something I can do a small \"\"test print\"\" on? \n\",mac,\"I'm not familiar with the Anet A6 specifically, but as many other things in a 3D printer, the minimum layer height is co-determined by a number of factors. For the Z-axis the factors I am aware of are:\n\n\nThe number of steps in the stepper motor\nThe geometry of the lead screw\nThe tolerance with which the lead screw has been machined\nThe microstep settings\nThe quality of the stepper drivers\nThe amount of play and flexibility of the X-axis gantry\nThe ration between filament and nozzle diameter\nThe precision of the extruder's stepper motor\n...\n\n\nMany printers that claim to have ridiculously low minimum Z-layer height do so by relying on the mathematical model only. It goes something like this: the lead screw has an offset of 1mm per revolution, the stepper motor makes 200 steps and is set for 32 microsteps per step so the minimum resolution should be...\n\n1mm / (200 * 32) = 0.0002mm\n\n\nThe reality is however different. For example: the lead screw may have been machined with a tolerance of 0.002mm, so to make sure a layer has a thickness >0mm its heigh should be >0.004mm (20 times the theoretical limit computed with the microsteps). But to make sure layers have the same height ±10% you would need to increase the minimum layer heigh of an order of magnitude, bringing it to 0.04mm. A similar reasoning applies for the amount of play in the gantry, while the ratio between filament and nozzle influences the minimum volume of plastic that can be extruded per step (for very thin layers you want to be able to extrude a minimal amount of it).\n\nAt the end of the day this is a typical case of \"\"a chain is only as strong as its weakest link\"\": the minimum layer height of a printer is affected much more dramatically by the limitations of the most imprecise component in the printer than by the performance of its best one.\n\nAs for your question about breaking the printer by issuing g-code with very thin layers: should you issue gcode that requires layers below that limit, the firmware will simply print at the same z-height (see comments, credits to Tom).\n\nI'm unaware of people having permanently damaged their machines by issuing code with too thin Z-layers. But given how the firmware operates, I'd expect the quality of the print to be negatively affected, the filament to be possibly chewed by the cobbed wheel and in extreme cases cloggig of the printer head.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n5625,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ljk2000,2.528907649931287,5.041432142598752,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.9505769891325135,Why the Anet A6 can't do .05 layer height,\"So like I sayed in the title, Why can't the Anet A6 do .05 layer height? I found that some printers can do .05 layer heights, but the Anet A6 can't? I am interested to know if it is the stepper motors or the threaded rods or something. Maybe this is something I can do a small \"\"test print\"\" on? \n\",TehEmoGurl,\"I have an Anet A6 and once you get your settings dialled in, bed level accurate and belt tensioner correct you can do 0.05 mm very well (although I for some reason went with 0.06 mm and never tried the extra 0.01 mm lower but it shouldn't have an issue). Note: I did this using all the stock parts so 0.4 mm brass nozzle.\n\nI highly recommend you print and install a front Y axis frame brace and a Y axis belt tensioning mod as well as an X axis belt tensioner. It will allow you to print at these layer heights much more accurately if you can adjust the tension correctly.\n\nThe kit out of the box makes it almost impossible to get good/correct tension on the belts.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5664,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ljk2000,2.1782824847157594,4.120655218839128,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,1st layer problems with .1 layer height,\"I re-read my question and realized I made a confusing one, so I am rewording a LOT.\n\nSo the software I use is Craftware. When it comes to the first layer I have it set to .25mm, with the following layers being whatever I specify otherwise. And because of this there shouldn't be a difference with the first layer even though I choose different layer heights based on the project. But for some reason it is not the case. \n\nWhen printing .2mm layer height everything works great. The print adheres amazing, the nozzle is at a really good height. Everything simply works. \n\nWhen printing .1mm the first layer does not stick. A lot less plastic is coming out the nozzle. And it is a disaster. Have tried increasing the amount of flow a bit, but didn't help (I might need to raise it a lot more)\n\nSo I don't understand what is going wrong. The first layer is supposed to be set at .25mm no matter what the layer height is otherwise. What do I need to do or look at? \n\",PR90,\"You likely need to re-calibrate the Z-height of your nozzle. The reason that a lot less plastic is coming out of the nozzle at 0.1mm is that the actual gap is likely smaller than 0.1mm. This makes the print bed act essentially like a partial \"\"lid\"\" on the nozzle which occludes the outflow of molten plastic. \n\nSimplify3D has information on their website regarding the issue which can be found here: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#not-extruding-at-start-of-print. Hope this helps!\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5664,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ljk2000,2.1782824847157594,4.120655218839128,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,1st layer problems with .1 layer height,\"I re-read my question and realized I made a confusing one, so I am rewording a LOT.\n\nSo the software I use is Craftware. When it comes to the first layer I have it set to .25mm, with the following layers being whatever I specify otherwise. And because of this there shouldn't be a difference with the first layer even though I choose different layer heights based on the project. But for some reason it is not the case. \n\nWhen printing .2mm layer height everything works great. The print adheres amazing, the nozzle is at a really good height. Everything simply works. \n\nWhen printing .1mm the first layer does not stick. A lot less plastic is coming out the nozzle. And it is a disaster. Have tried increasing the amount of flow a bit, but didn't help (I might need to raise it a lot more)\n\nSo I don't understand what is going wrong. The first layer is supposed to be set at .25mm no matter what the layer height is otherwise. What do I need to do or look at? \n\",Iain Ballard,\"Assuming you are using a 0.4mm nozzle, 0.1 layers are very close to the edge of what you can do. As @PR90 said, a Z adjustment will probably help.\n\nMy process for this:\n\n\nIf you have a heated bed, preheat before levelling.\nset a large brim on the print, slow-ish first level (about 40mm/s)\nstart with the bed levelled normally, and start the print\nwait for plastic to be extruding, then adjust the bed until it starts bonding\n\n\nThis does require adjusting the bed with the print in progress, so make sure you are safe and don't get your fingers in anything hot or otherwise dangerous.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5757,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ljk2000,2.1782824847157594,4.589191094047444,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Threads for nozzle (Anet A6 extruder),\"How do I know what nozzle to get for my Anet A6 printer? I want to get some hardened nozzles because I would love to print with some glow in the dark filament, but I know that eats up brass nozzles fast. But there is so many thread differences so I don't know which one to get, or even what thread the Anet A6 is. Could I have some help finding the thread type and what hardened nozzles would be recommended?\n\",mer2329,\"look for MK8 or V6 nozzles that are for 1.75mm filament.\n\nbut to answer your question the exact threading is M6 x 1mm thread pitch\n\nboth MK8 and e3d v6 nozzles use m6 x 1mm pitch\nSource: manual measurement of both my brass mk8 and stainless steel v6 nozzle\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5757,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ljk2000,2.1782824847157594,4.589191094047444,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Threads for nozzle (Anet A6 extruder),\"How do I know what nozzle to get for my Anet A6 printer? I want to get some hardened nozzles because I would love to print with some glow in the dark filament, but I know that eats up brass nozzles fast. But there is so many thread differences so I don't know which one to get, or even what thread the Anet A6 is. Could I have some help finding the thread type and what hardened nozzles would be recommended?\n\",0scar,\"The Anet A6 uses the mk8 extruder (also used by the Anet A8). Please search for mk8 nozzles (for 1.75 mm filament). These nozzles use M6 threads. Standard nozzle size is 0.4 mm.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5961,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ljk2000,2.8153892694839717,4.299444422439121,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Finding a shredder for my failed prints,\"I would love to re-use my failed prints by re-extruding the plastic to be used int he 3d printer once again. One thing that stand in my way is finding a effective way to shred the plastic into smaller bits for the extrude to use. What is a good thing to look for to accomplish this? Maybe a really big 'paper' shredder?\n\",profesor79,\"there is a project called precious plastic and there is a plastic shredder, but it is a rather expensive solution.\n\nAs I am waiting for parts for my Lyman extruder, my plan is to hammer the parts and then process in old kitchen robot with steel working area, an example here\n\nThe paper shredder will be ok as long as you can feed it with plastic. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4807,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Frumples,2.1782824847157594,3.546298061061763,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Layer height issues creating partial top layer,\"Cura is slicing my object (a gear with text) with a partial top layer, and I believe it has to do with layer height and rounding issues. I have been able to solve this at specific heights 10-14mm using a layer height of 0.25 mm, however other heights will cause this issue to arise again. There must be a solution to this that doesn't require the user to constantly be adjusting layer height and object height in order to resolve what I perceive to be a rounding issue. \n\nHere is the model:\nhttps://filebin.ca/3f2g2s0dklzR/hackEly_v1.0_joined_text_2.stl\n\nHere are my settings:\n\n\n\nHere is the model at a height of 10 mm:\nNote the diagonal line, this is the line between two layers.\n\n\nHere is the model at a height of 13 mm:\nNote the diagonal line again, and how it is farther to the right than the 10mm height view.\n\n\nI don't believe that this is not a non-manifold issue. I have also tested this using a gear without text.\n\nLike I mentioned, I can get rid of that layer division at certain layer heights and object heights (e.g. 0.25mm layer height), but I would like to find out how to get rid of this issue regardless of object/layer height. Thank you for your help.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Even though you've selected an answer, here's another viewpoint. Ignoring the brim that I've added by default via my slicer, you can see the first few layers are not complete. This indicates a model that's a fraction of a degree off-plane. \n\n\n\nAny number of methods can be used to correct this. Meshmixer has a great \"\"align\"\" function in the edit menu which will drop it on the bed. My slicer, S3D will work in that respect with \"\"Place surface on bed\"\" or some such terms.\n\nThe image below represents the result of using Align in Meshmixer, Inspector (repair all) and export. The STL file imported to S3D presented exactly the same image on the first layer as in the image above. When I used \"\"Place surface on bed and selected the horizontal cross-member as the reference surface, the first layer result is this:\n\n\n\nThe slicer completed the imaging with this result, clearly with no diagonal artifacts:\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4807,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Frumples,2.1782824847157594,3.546298061061763,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Layer height issues creating partial top layer,\"Cura is slicing my object (a gear with text) with a partial top layer, and I believe it has to do with layer height and rounding issues. I have been able to solve this at specific heights 10-14mm using a layer height of 0.25 mm, however other heights will cause this issue to arise again. There must be a solution to this that doesn't require the user to constantly be adjusting layer height and object height in order to resolve what I perceive to be a rounding issue. \n\nHere is the model:\nhttps://filebin.ca/3f2g2s0dklzR/hackEly_v1.0_joined_text_2.stl\n\nHere are my settings:\n\n\n\nHere is the model at a height of 10 mm:\nNote the diagonal line, this is the line between two layers.\n\n\nHere is the model at a height of 13 mm:\nNote the diagonal line again, and how it is farther to the right than the 10mm height view.\n\n\nI don't believe that this is not a non-manifold issue. I have also tested this using a gear without text.\n\nLike I mentioned, I can get rid of that layer division at certain layer heights and object heights (e.g. 0.25mm layer height), but I would like to find out how to get rid of this issue regardless of object/layer height. Thank you for your help.\n\",Athanasios Karagiannis,\"Your model isn't perfect. I took it into Windows 10 3D Builder for simplicity. I kept clicking the \"\"Mirror\"\" function and noticed as it basically flipped there is some slight movement. I measured some points from bottom to top and noticed some differences. \n\nTry to take your model into some software to fix/flatten it. Or recreate it making sure its perfectly flat on both sides. It is definitely not your Cura software.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4809,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Keith Bybee,0.0,4.5765092385709,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,How to modify G-code or a better place to get it,\"I have built a 3D printer from salvaged/purchased parts. I am using an Arduino Uno and three easy driver stepper drivers with 3 CD-ROMs drives and a PC power unit. I ordered a 3D pen and have it mounted with a transistor to switch it on/off. Everything works but when I try to run code that I got from makercam.com it seems like it wants to fill in the shape rather than build up. \n\nI followed this tutorial YouTube - How To Make A Cheap 3D Printer and after modifying the G-code I am unable to get any successful prints.\n\n\n\",Aaron Cofield,\"Download an stl file from Thingiverse.com \n\nPut your .stl file in a slicer program like cura\n\nIt will output gcode for 3d objects rather than 2d.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n4809,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Keith Bybee,0.0,4.5765092385709,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,How to modify G-code or a better place to get it,\"I have built a 3D printer from salvaged/purchased parts. I am using an Arduino Uno and three easy driver stepper drivers with 3 CD-ROMs drives and a PC power unit. I ordered a 3D pen and have it mounted with a transistor to switch it on/off. Everything works but when I try to run code that I got from makercam.com it seems like it wants to fill in the shape rather than build up. \n\nI followed this tutorial YouTube - How To Make A Cheap 3D Printer and after modifying the G-code I am unable to get any successful prints.\n\n\n\",Jesse Williams,\"I would typically shy away from downloading gcode and printing it directly. Always slice it yourself since, inevitably, every printer is different. What happens if the gcode is setup for ABS (higher temps) and you are printing with PLA? If it's setup for a build platform larger than yours and you just hit endstops?\n\nDefinitely go with Aaron's idea, download a model (Thingiverse is great, but there are SO many sites where you can get files), configure a slicer for your print settings (I prefer slic3r to Cura, but both are great), slice it and print away.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4811,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Keith Bybee,1.726248027126092,3.079570220207228,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,What is the best free source for generating g-code,\"Ok so i have built a 3d printer from old cd rom drives. Before installing the 3d pen(extruder/hotend) i used www.makercam.com to export i file containing a star. With a marker attached the machone successfully drew a star. Now i have the 3d pen but using makercam i am not having any luck. Is there a better way to generate files for my new toy?\n\",IMustBeSomeone,\"Try using TinkerCAD!\n\nI'm not advertising here - I have used TinkerCAD in the past for 3D printing.\nTinkerCAD allows you to easily build and create simple shapes by the press of a button. (I assume this is what you mean by generation)\n\nIt is great for testing if your homebrew 3D printer works.\n\nLink: https://www.tinkercad.com/\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4811,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Keith Bybee,1.726248027126092,3.079570220207228,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,What is the best free source for generating g-code,\"Ok so i have built a 3d printer from old cd rom drives. Before installing the 3d pen(extruder/hotend) i used www.makercam.com to export i file containing a star. With a marker attached the machone successfully drew a star. Now i have the 3d pen but using makercam i am not having any luck. Is there a better way to generate files for my new toy?\n\",Keith Bybee,\"The g code is generated by a program like slic3r, skeinforge or cura. These programs import a CAD model slilce it into layers and output the gcode required to print each layer.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4819,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Keith Bybee,2.1782824847157594,4.132185323536744,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Which firmware to use on printer settings for DIY printer,\"I have a 3D printer that I built using CD-ROM drives. It's all set and ready to go but when I generate .stl or .obj files my G-code sender program cannot load it. I have found that Slic3r will export the .stl into G-code but it has the option of changing the G-code flavour, or firmware. \n\nMy machine is running from an Arduino Uno with Grbl v0.8. \n\nSo the question is, which firmware setting would be appropriate for my machine that would require the least amount of editing before I can print?\n\",Mick,\"Unless you can find a slicer that explicitly supports grbl, you will need to check the G-code specification and see which common flavour is closest to what grbl supports. The RepRap Wiki includes grbl in it's compatibility chart, but it has question marks against a lot of entries for grbl.\n\nThe other alternative is to slice a very simple model and see what commands are issued by the slicer, and whether they are supported by grbl.\n\nNote that there is a question as to whether grbl supports FDM printing technology, i.e. 3D printers that use filament. Most slicers are designed to work with FDM printers, and will expect to be controlling at least one extruder. If your printer does not have an extruder that is controlled via G-code, you may encounter real difficulties generating G-code for it using commonly-available slicers. \n\nRepRap Wiki: G-code\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4819,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Keith Bybee,2.1782824847157594,4.132185323536744,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Which firmware to use on printer settings for DIY printer,\"I have a 3D printer that I built using CD-ROM drives. It's all set and ready to go but when I generate .stl or .obj files my G-code sender program cannot load it. I have found that Slic3r will export the .stl into G-code but it has the option of changing the G-code flavour, or firmware. \n\nMy machine is running from an Arduino Uno with Grbl v0.8. \n\nSo the question is, which firmware setting would be appropriate for my machine that would require the least amount of editing before I can print?\n\",Walter Hynson,\"Slice your model... then edit the code in Notepad... where you will see that you will need to replace all E (extrude commands) with M3 for Extrude on and/or M5 for Extrude off.\n\nYou must look at the code and figure out where:\n\n\nThe code is telling the extruder to extrude; \nThen it makes a bunch of XY moves; t\nThen, where it tells the extruder to stop, you have to insert an M5 command.\n\n\nI did this a year ago and got mine to work perfectly but it takes time to edit the code. Be patient and keep at it .\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4824,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Keith Bybee,2.1782824847157594,4.266692819932913,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,How to express dwell time in G-code,\"I am writing some G-code for my DIY 3D printer. From what I understand, G4 is dwell and its expressed in milliseconds. So my extruder takes about 30 seconds to heat up. Do I just type \n\nG04 30000\n\n\",Mick,\"You are correct about needing to specify the dwell value in milliseconds. However, the RepRap Wiki indicates that you need to use the Pn argument, and not just an unadorned number as the argument to the command. To adapt the Wiki's own example, you will need to use:\n\nG4 P30000\n\n\nThis should cause the firmware to dwell (pause) for 30 seconds.\n\nRepRap Wiki: G4: Dwell\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4824,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Keith Bybee,2.1782824847157594,4.266692819932913,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,How to express dwell time in G-code,\"I am writing some G-code for my DIY 3D printer. From what I understand, G4 is dwell and its expressed in milliseconds. So my extruder takes about 30 seconds to heat up. Do I just type \n\nG04 30000\n\n\",Larry,\"Depending on your G-code flavor you may be able to use M109 (heat and wait) instead. If supported M109 will wait until the target temperature is achieved.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n4826,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Keith Bybee,2.8153892694839717,6.706950890521973,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,What is g92 used for in g code,\"On the reprap wiki it says using Znnn it sets a nex axis position. But then it says \"\"No physical motion will occur\"\". What would the line G92 E0 be used for?\n\",Mick,\"The G92 command is used to set the start position (origin) of one of more axes (including the current extruder) to any arbitrary value. The command G92 E0 is often used to perform retraction and nozzle priming. For example, the following commands are often used in start-gcode sequences (prologues) to prime the current extruder by extruding a small amount of filament:\n\nG92 E0 ; Reset the extruder's origin\nG1 F200 E3 ; Extrude 3 millimetres of filament\nG92 E0 ; Reset the extruder's origin\n\n\nRepRap Wiki: G92: Set Position\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n4834,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Keith Bybee,2.8153892694839717,3.3819507842569205,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,G04 dwell period control parameters,\"I have a 3D printer that I built and I'm having trouble with some g code. I have to stop and start the extrude motor when the z axis moves up to the next layer. When I do this the 3D pen I am using goes back a little bit to prevent dripping. When the motor starts again the filament is not at the tip yet and I am trying to add a dwell time before it starts moving again to give the filament time to come out. When I enter G04 P100 after each M3 command (the code I have to use to start my motor) it dwells way longer than 100ms and P10 seems to take around 10 seconds. On Wikipedia it states the control parameters for ms is P and the one for seconds is X however the reprap wiki states the proper control parameter for seconds is S. So my question is what is the correct parameter and how precise can I be with seconds i.e. .0000 how many zeros can I have after the decimal. I am trying to calibrate and get accurate prints so any help would be greatly appreciated. I am using grbl version .8 with and arduino uno. The software I am using is Grbl Controller 3.6.1\n\",0scar,\"Basically you are fighting against oozing. So a retraction, or as you call it:\n\n\n the 3D pen I am using goes back a little bit to prevent dripping\n\n\nneeds to be undone. You can do this by extruding an amount to get the filament back at the tip. Command G1 Exx.xx where xx.xx is a number where the retraction is is added on top of the existing value. Furthermore, most slicing software have parameters available to influence the extrusion/retraction. E.g. \"\"coasting\"\" is an option to prematurely stop extruding and make use of the pressure buildup in the nozzle (this prevents blobs where perimeter end meets the perimeter begin), \"\"extra length on restart\"\" (replenish the nozzle chamber with extra filament) or \"\"Retract on layer change\"\". In principle all these actions are set and handled by the slicer you use for making a print file. There is no need for a \"\"dwell time\"\", in fact dwell is just a pauze. It seems a bit strange that you want to control the filament flow yourself, while all this is done for you by the slicer software.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4877,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Keith Bybee,1.0891412423578797,4.325794029945154,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Meaning of G1 -2.000 F2400.000,\"I am working on g code for my homebrew 3d printer and i have found the line G1 -2.000 F2400.000. From what i understand there should be an axis before the number and x and y shouldnt have negative. I am using grbl which is for cnc milling but and i have been deleting this line with no problems but i am wondering what it does because i will be upgrading to a \"\"real\"\" 3d printer asap\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"\n G1 -2.000 F2400.000\n\n\nIs not valid G-code. As you note, -2.000 should be prefixed with an axis (X,Y,Z or E).\n\nMarlin would ignore the -2.000 bit and simply treat the command as equivalent to\n\nG1 F2400.000\n\n\nwhich doesn't perform any movement, but sets the feedrate for any future moves to 2400mm/min.\n\n\n x and y shouldnt have negative\n\n\nNot necessarily. Even though normally printing is done in the positive quadrant, negative values can be valid. Not only in relative movement mode, but even in absolute mode (for instance, if you set the center of your bed as (0,0) or if you use a negative z-axis offset the bring the nozzle closer to the bed).\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4877,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Keith Bybee,1.0891412423578797,4.325794029945154,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Meaning of G1 -2.000 F2400.000,\"I am working on g code for my homebrew 3d printer and i have found the line G1 -2.000 F2400.000. From what i understand there should be an axis before the number and x and y shouldnt have negative. I am using grbl which is for cnc milling but and i have been deleting this line with no problems but i am wondering what it does because i will be upgrading to a \"\"real\"\" 3d printer asap\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"G1 indicates a movement and -2.000 the distance, F2400.000 the feed rate mm/min, normally the (-) values are for retraction on extrusion E, for example:\n\nG0 X12 (move to 12mm on the X axis) \nG0 F1500 (Set the feedrate to 1500mm/minute) \nG1 X90.6 Y13.8 E22.4 (Move to 90.6mm on the X axis and 13.8mm on the Y axis while extruding 22.4mm of material) \n\n1. G1 F1500\n2. G1 X50 Y25.3 E22.4\n\n\nIn the above example, we set the feedrate to 1500mm/minute on line 1, then move to 50mm on the X axis and 25.3mm on the Y axis while extruding 22.4mm of filament between the two points. \n\n1. G1 F1500\n2. G1 X50 Y25.3 E22.4 F3000\n\n\nHowever, in the above example, we set a feedrate of 1500 mm/minute on line 1, then do the move described above accelerating to a feedrate of 3000 mm/minute as it does so. The extrusion will accelerate along with the X and Y movement, so everything stays synchronized. \n\nSo, in your case if some axis is not defined the feed rate applies to all motors.\n\n(part of this content is from reprap-wiki)\n\nYou will see negative numbers if your starting point is on the center of the bed just like rectangular coordinates.\n\nG1 X-50.318 Y8.849 E11.70313 \nG1 X-52.606 Y3.087 E12.26689 \nG1 X-53.240 Y1.297 E12.43953 \nG1 X-54.398 Y-2.097 E12.76562 \nG1 X-54.683 Y-2.995 E12.85132 \n\n\",0.0,0.0\n4896,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Keith Bybee,1.0891412423578797,2.846247604045449,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How to tell machine how far travel limits without switches,\"I have a 3d printer that is homebuilt with salvaged parts. Occasionally there is some kind of error and when i start my code the minute it starts it max out on x and y axis and continues to do it until i kill the connection and reset everything. I have found that when i put G21 G90 into the first line of the file it doesnt do this anymore. But I'm wondering if i can \"\"teach\"\" my machine how far it can go before it stops? I am using \"\"grbl controller\"\" to send g-code to my arduino uno woth grbl loaded onto it.\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"Since 3D printers works with coodinates and the gcode generator requires the origin point and bed shape and bed size. knowing this your programs never will be out of the printing area.\n\nMy printer has a printing area of 16.5 x 16.5 cm, so I set this parameter to CURA, Slic3r and 3dsimplify and I can't generate the gcode if the part does not fit on the bed. So I print parts with 15cm maximum\n\nAlso the firmware has this limits to 16cm, the 0.5 cm is just for safety\n\nOf course if I send a command with pronterface or any other gbrl controler I can go over the limits due the X0Y0 could be out of position (offset), but if you respect the origin point and don't try to go over the limits by yourself the machine will be ok.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4814,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CalculatedRisk,3.0576060275493275,3.6818827665035174,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,1.878685800062712,Printing Object in multiple parts,\"Is there any software/methods to automatically splice objects into multiple pieces sort of like a jig saw puzzle so that I can combine them together and bypass the build plate size limit?\n\nAs an example I have this 2D image that I want to print out but my printers size limit is roughly the size of the blue \"\"squares.\"\" It's pretty tedious and time consuming to do this manually. Also, any tips on getting seamless lines or proper alignment when gluing these pieces together are appreciated.\n\n\",Samveen,\"From what I understand, you're trying to partition your object into smaller pieces with the hopes of putting them back together in a manner similar to a Jigsaw puzzle.\n\nThere are two options that I know of to do this, which requires using OpenSCAD:\n\n\nThe PuzzleCut library - This allows you to disassemble your object into a multiple pieces that can be assembled together in a jigsaw puzzle type manner\nThe PinCut library - This allows you to disassemble your objects into multiple pieces that than be reassembled using the pins and corresponding holes on the pieces.\n\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n4814,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CalculatedRisk,3.0576060275493275,3.6818827665035174,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,1.878685800062712,Printing Object in multiple parts,\"Is there any software/methods to automatically splice objects into multiple pieces sort of like a jig saw puzzle so that I can combine them together and bypass the build plate size limit?\n\nAs an example I have this 2D image that I want to print out but my printers size limit is roughly the size of the blue \"\"squares.\"\" It's pretty tedious and time consuming to do this manually. Also, any tips on getting seamless lines or proper alignment when gluing these pieces together are appreciated.\n\n\",mbuc91,\"\nYou mentioned youre using Fusion 360; if so, you could just split your final body or component into separate bodies. Then you could export each body separately.\nSlic3r and Slic3r PE both have the Cut command, but unfortunately it only will cut on the XY plane.\nIf you are on Windows 10, 3D Builder has a good tool for splitting STL files.\n\n\nOpen your STL in 3D Builder\nUse the Edit > Split command\nAdjust the plane to where you want the object cut\nSelect Keep both and click ✓ Split\nNote that you can't export individual objects; you must copy each object into a new 3D Builder window to save it separately.\n\nMeshmixer is an excellent tool to learn overall but has a learning curve.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4822,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,John Abraham,1.0891412423578797,5.749840381490526,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How to rotate camera using mjpg-streamer-experimental?,\"I've successfully installed mjpg-streamer-experimental from here I just can't figure out how to set the parameter I need in order to rotate my camera 180 degrees (I have my webcam mounted upside down for a custom mount I made). \n\nI'm using a Logitech C270. I've been searching online for hours for a solution to this issue and just can't find what I'm looking for. Doesn't help that I'm not very proficient when it comes to this stuff.\n\nWould really appreciate some help! \n\",GiF,\"Edit: Having now installed Octopi myself, I have found that they made it easy to rotate the image right from the interface. If you open the \"\"Settings\"\" and look under \"\"Webcam & Timelapse\"\", there are settings for flipping the image horizontally or vertically and for rotating 90 degrees.\n\nThere are a few ways to rotate the image of which I am aware. You can do it via the input plugin, the client, or post-processing.\n\nThe \"\"input_uvc\"\" and \"\"input_raspicam\"\" plugins both have options to rotate the image. If you are using one of these plugins see the documentation at input_uvc or input_raspicam (it is worth noting that the input options may not be supported by all cameras). You should be able to run the command like the following to get a stream that is rotated 180 degrees:\n\n\n mjpg_streamer -i 'input_uvc.so -rot 180'\n\n\nI'm not sure how you are handling the stream, but it is possible that your client can perform the rotation. For example, if you are using VLC you can set the angle of rotation by doing something like this: \n\n\nOpen the “Tools” menu and select “Effects and Filters”\nIn the “Adjustments and Effects” window, on the “Video Effects” tab, select the “Transform” check box\nSelect a rotation from the dropdown menu and then click “Close”.\n\n\nFinally, if you are saving the stream and are only concerned with rotating it afterwards, you can post-process it with a utility like ffmpeg. See this post as an example and look for \"\"Rotate\"\" in the accepted answer.\n\nIf your stream is being rendered via a browser you may be able to add some CSS3 formatting to the video element. For example, you could add an ID of \"\"videoElement\"\" to the stream and then add the following to your CSS:\n\n\n #videoElement {\n\ntransform: rotateZ(180deg);\n-webkit-transform:rotateZ(180deg); /* Safari and Chrome */\n-moz-transform:rotateZ(180deg); /* Firefox */ \n\n \n }\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4831,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Efe Yakar,2.528907649931287,4.2760223610750865,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,\"Step motors vibrate, don't move at all (Prusa I3)\",\"Recently, I changed my RAMPS 1.4 card (because there was a problem with the power output).So I bought this new one, and an Arduino Mega.I didn'T change the code (Marlin 1.3.3).I used the same stepsticks (a4988).I plugged my motors to the Ramps card. When I give them the command to turn they started to turn but didn't stop.Stepsticks got hot.After some time I tried it again and they just vibrated.The stepsticks got insanely hot after just 5-6 seconds.I used a different stepstick RAMPS card and Mega, they worked perfectly.But when I plugged the stepstick to the new card, the motors did te same thing again. What can be causing this and how can I fix it? \n(I've measured the voltage input, it is 12V and stable)\n\",Valmond,\"Usually if they get too hot you have to adjust the amperage by turning the little potentiometer on the A4988 (turn left until you can move the motor by hand, turn right until you cant, add a little bit like 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn).\n\nBut this:\n\n\n I used a different stepstick RAMPS card and Mega, they worked perfectly.\n\n\nit is not completely clear, so:\n\n\nthe A4988 work on another board -> your new board is broken\nanother A4988 worked -> the A4988 is broken\n\n\nHTH\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n4835,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,RC4,2.528907649931287,4.5130707292534495,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Slicing adds holes/cracks to my object,\"I recently got started in 3D printing but here's an issue I can't seem to find a solution for (I don't know what exactly to look for).\n\nHere's what I did:\n\n\nI used InkScape to convert an emoji in to a svg and imported it in to Blender\nUsed the Solidify modifier to make the curve a solid and converted it in to a mesh\nExtruded the mesh a bit, fixed a few non-manifold vertices and erroneous faces and saved the whole shebang as STL\nImported the STL in to my printers software: \n\nAfter slicing it looks like this: \n\n\n\nIs the software making a mistake during the slicing? Or is my mesh screwed up?\n\nI have a FlashForge Finder and using the software that came with it: FlashPrint.\n\nEdit: I uploaded everything to Thingiverse for those who are interested.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"This is likely not a problem with your mesh. It's a problem in the slicer software.\n\nBecause your 3D printer prints with a (for example) 0.4mm nozzle, it lays down lines of plastic that are around (for example) 0.5mm wide. The slicer has to create a pattern, consisting of 0.5mm wide lines, that fills in your object. The gaps shown in your object are likely smaller than this, and thus can't be filled.\n\nI am not familiar with the flashforge software, but different slicers have different ways of dealing with this. Some offer a \"\"gap fill\"\" option that uses tricks to be able to fill in these very tiny gaps by rapidly moving the extruder back and forth over the gap. However, even then, it is sometimes unavoidable that tiny gaps remain. Some gaps are just too small to fill with the comparatively large nozzle.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4835,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,RC4,2.528907649931287,4.5130707292534495,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Slicing adds holes/cracks to my object,\"I recently got started in 3D printing but here's an issue I can't seem to find a solution for (I don't know what exactly to look for).\n\nHere's what I did:\n\n\nI used InkScape to convert an emoji in to a svg and imported it in to Blender\nUsed the Solidify modifier to make the curve a solid and converted it in to a mesh\nExtruded the mesh a bit, fixed a few non-manifold vertices and erroneous faces and saved the whole shebang as STL\nImported the STL in to my printers software: \n\nAfter slicing it looks like this: \n\n\n\nIs the software making a mistake during the slicing? Or is my mesh screwed up?\n\nI have a FlashForge Finder and using the software that came with it: FlashPrint.\n\nEdit: I uploaded everything to Thingiverse for those who are interested.\n\",darth pixel,\"here is just a addenum to Tom van der Zanden's answer\n\nthis is (an example of) what you may design - nice object with virtual outline, and virtual fill\nso this is what you see (and what you potentially expect)\n\n\n\nbut here is what you get (and probably not really expect)\n\n\n\nred parts are the areas which are not covered by fill because nozzle cannot reach there\n\nsolution is \n\n\nto redesign your object in smart way or\nto use smaller nozzle or\nto use smarter app (like Slic3r)\n\n\nand of course you can use all 3 options together to get best results ;)\n\nEDIT\nhere is simple explanation why smarter app could do the thing\n\n\nand here goes the difference\n\n\n\ngreen parts are new covered areas\n\nnot much but somthing extra\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n4845,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Max,1.0891412423578797,3.293352546145431,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Where or who could I hire to assemble a 3d printer that came in a kit for me?,\"I planning on getting a resin 3d printer kit, and I don't want to take any risks building it myself. Where, or who, could I hire a professional capable of constructing a 3D printer kit? They don't necessarily have to specialize in constructing 3d printers, I just need someone qualified with the mechanical and technical skills for the job.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"If you have a makerspace in your area, you'll likely find individuals with reasonable mechanical skills suitable for simple kit assembly. Most kits are engineered to be reasonable assembly, not rocket surgery. Makers are by nature capable of construction, often from raw materials, and kits are typically not particularly challenging comparatively speaking.\n\nResin 3D printers are also simple in construction, as the component count is less than that of an FDM printer, or quite close in count. SLA designs involve laser modules, mirrors and alignment, while DLP designs involve light projection and light masking. Both designs involve vats and movement mechanics.\n\nEven if you do not have a makerspace local to you, consider to contact one that might be nearer than farther away, as those spaces may have leads for you to locate a suitable victim/candidate.\n\nOur local library makerspace often farms out contacts to me or other makers with the necessary skills to meet a patron's requirements.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4845,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Max,1.0891412423578797,3.293352546145431,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Where or who could I hire to assemble a 3d printer that came in a kit for me?,\"I planning on getting a resin 3d printer kit, and I don't want to take any risks building it myself. Where, or who, could I hire a professional capable of constructing a 3D printer kit? They don't necessarily have to specialize in constructing 3d printers, I just need someone qualified with the mechanical and technical skills for the job.\n\",Jesse Williams,\"I agree that a local makerspace is a good option, but I will say this...\n\nBuying a kit and building it yourself, even with some frustration and learning curves, will help immensely with your ability to calibrate and troubleshoot issues later. If someone else builds it for you, chances are if something goes wrong, you'll need to seek out that person for help fixing things.\n\nI just recently bought my first 3D printer (FDM) as a kit. Building it was a slight learning curve - I'm a technophile and have built things with Arduino before, but never a printer and the specifics that come along with it. Getting it to actually print reliably took me about two weeks. However, I'm MUCH more confident now to take care of issues as they arise, and keep it running smoothly. The value of this experience can not be overstated.\n\",0.0,0.0\n4907,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Max,1.726248027126092,2.7788773953209382,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,How to tell if A 3d printing kit has a replaceable nozzle,\"I was looking at the prusa i3 3d(the original i3, not the mk2) on sale and I wanted to know how I could tell if it(and printers like it) had a replaceable nozzle, since I wanted to try out different nozzle sizes, and I need to be able to use a .1 mm nozzle for micro armor 3D printing(8mm height miniatures, I'm not too picky about their appearance) so anyways, does anyone know how to tell if a printer has a replaceable nozzle?\n\",C. Hediger,\"Prusa has a replacable nozzle. Usually all printer does have an replacable nozzle. Since this is a part of a printer which could get jammed during a printer life. \n\nAs written here: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prusa-i3-is-now-1-75-mm/ The Prusa i3 uses an E3D Hotend. This Hotend has many diffenez nozzles. You can search on E**ay for E3D V6 0.1mm nozzle and you will find a lot of offers. \n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n5119,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Max,1.726248027126092,4.954358624971418,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How easily can I remove/replace the nozzle of the prusa i3?,\"I'm considering getting a prusa i3 after my da vinci jr. fiasco, with that said, how easily can I remove/replace the nozzle in order to clean it?\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"Assuming you have a typical setup: nozzle threaded into heater block, use a socket wrench on the nozzle and any wrench or vise-grip on the block, and unscrew the nozzle. Now, if your system is fully clogged, you may want to heat the head to melt all the residual gunk (which otherwise will strongly resist your unscrewing force). Obviously take care not to burn yourself if removing the nozzle while hot. \n\nAlternatively, don't bother removing the nozzle. Raise the extruder as high (Z-axis) as you can, heat, and use a properly-sized stiff wire to ream out the nozzle. You can use the back end of a microdrill bit. Hot or cold, you can use the drill itself to ream, but be very cautious as you may widen the nozzle itself doing this. \n\nI should add that you may well have gunk in the feeder tube, and that's considerably wider diameter. Remove the nozzle and gently drill out the feeder with a matching drill.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5191,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Max,2.8153892694839717,4.795846879507709,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,\"If I have a nozzle clog, can I easily get rid of it by simply replacing the nozzle?\",\"I'm getting a Prusa i3 with a replaceable nozzle. \n\nIf I have a nozzle clog, can I easily get rid of it by simply:\n\n\nreplacing the nozzle, or;\nremoving it and submerging it in acetone, or;\nremoving it and cleaning it with a blowtorch, or;\nremoving it and cleaning it. \n\n\nOr can the clog get so bad that the whole extruder has to be cleaned, and if so how could I clean it? \n\",fred_dot_u,\"The nozzle on a Prusa i3, if a genuine Prusa, would be part of the E3Dv6 assembly and is removable. It's wise to heat the nozzle to 150°C or higher, and handle with the care necessary for something that hot. When loosened, be prepared for it to fall onto the surface below. A catching tin would be a good idea, at the very least.\n\nOnce removed, you can test that it's the nozzle that is clogged by pushing or extruding filament via the control panel to confirm that the rest of the system is clear.\n\nConsider also to perform a nylon cleaning of the nozzle before you perform the above disassembly. I've performed this process more than a few times and disagree with one aspect of the process. The process describes heating the nozzle to 250°C and forcing nylon filament into the hot end. I suggest doing so manually, not via the extruder controls, as it give you better feedback and control.\n\nOnce you've forced as much through as you can, allow the hot end to cool. Not included in the steps reference above is a part of the process that is semi-automated on my printer. Heat the nozzle to about 140-150°C and carefully and slowly pull the filament back out of the hot end. The above link suggests yanking it sharply. The article also includes a caution that doing so is brutal and could damage your machine. Carefully and slowly will not damage your machine. I have to use pliers to get sufficient grip on the nylon but that's a trivial aspect.\n\nThe nylon will come out with debris and previous color filament. Clip off the debris and perform the task again. Repeat until the nylon is clean and you have good flow through the nozzle.\n\n\n\nAcetone will not dissolve PLA filament. Extreme heat may carbonize the material in the nozzle and render it useless. The nylon cleaning method is nearly universally successful unless you have a physically damaged nozze.\n\nThere are kits to be purchased which are described as nylon cleaning kits, and include a small length of nylon filament and sometimes a cleaning drill. Using such a drill may damage the nozzle and is contraindicated. If you can afford to purchase a half-kilogram or full kilogram of nylon in the diameter specific to your printer, it will last quite some time. You can share segments with friends and/or members of your local makerspace and improve circumstances for many.\n\nNylon absorbs moisture more quickly than any other filament, making storage for extended periods challenging if you intend to print with nylon, but for cleaning, it matters little that there's moisture boiling out of it as you clean your nozzle. I've found the little bubbles in the extruded nylon to be a sign that I'm getting clean nylon through the nozzle and can expect good results.\n\nIn the worst case I've had thus far, I've had to push nylon four times to clear a clogged nozzle. I had some overheated PVA support material jam the nozzle and once cleared, everything flowed properly.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n5200,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Max,1.726248027126092,5.524404568462496,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,What do you do If the whole extruder is clogged?,\"I have a prusa 13 that's shipping in the mail, and I intend to make good use of it, one also own a da vinci jr. and the one time it got so clogged that the extruder itself was filled with pla, with that said I replace the extruder, for the da vinci, but besides that, as for my a prusa, what should I do if the extruder, not the nozzle gets clogged that badly?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"The extruder is not a single component, but a collection of components. From the top, you may have a bowden tube or a direct feed type of design. If the former, there's the bowden tube which extends into the heat sink. If it is a direct feed and not an all-metal design, there will be PTFE tubing inside the heat sink.\n\nThe heat sink is a finned assembly, usually cylindrical, sometimes other shapes. Attached below that will be a threaded coupling called a heat break. Both the heat sink and heat break will be configured to have the same inside diameter, to allow the filament to pass through to the next stage.\n\nThe heat break passes into the heater block. The nozzle passes into the heater block from the opposite side. The two items contact each other when properly assembled.\n\nIf your nozzle is not blocked, but there is a blockage somewhere else, it would indicate that the PTFE tubing has become damaged or a piece of debris has managed to fall into the opening when filament was removed.\n\nThe items are easily disassembled and the pathway for the filament can be cleared with a suitable tool.\n\nIf a portion of the extruder assembly has previously filled with filament, the nozzle was not solidly secured to the heat break, or the PTFE filament had slipped back or was not fully inserted into the heat sink.\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5200,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Max,1.726248027126092,5.524404568462496,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,What do you do If the whole extruder is clogged?,\"I have a prusa 13 that's shipping in the mail, and I intend to make good use of it, one also own a da vinci jr. and the one time it got so clogged that the extruder itself was filled with pla, with that said I replace the extruder, for the da vinci, but besides that, as for my a prusa, what should I do if the extruder, not the nozzle gets clogged that badly?\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"If you are good at being patient and extremely careful, you can clean out the feeder tube by using a small drill, manually operated. Use a bit with diameter smaller than the filament in use. \n\nI recommend first removing the nozzle. Then,from the top, hold the drive gear open and gently work the drill bit down, removing often to clean off debris. If the bit is long enough, sooner or later it'll project out the hole where the nozzle fits. If not, gently work from the bottom up. \n\nSince you have the nozzle out, it's easy to see if there's gunk in the upper chamber of the nozzle; either drill that out or use heat-methods to liquify, and clean out with any soft tool.\n\nUsually any clog in the narrow orifice can now be removed by re-assembling, heating the extruder head to operational temps, and pushing the remaining gunk out simply by guiding fresh filament all the way in. I do not recommend trying to use a micro-drill bit as that can easily damage or open up the orifice. If you can get a piece of stiff wire (e.g. 0.375 for a 0.4 nozzle), try that once the head is at operational temperature.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4846,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,jgalak,3.452496054252184,4.293018291807974,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Self-lubricating 3D printable materials for space,\"Materials used in space need to not outgas significantly \n\nAn answer to this question: Would 3d-printed objects outgas in vacuum?\n\nreferred to the NASA outgassing database which showed that ABS, PET, and PLA filaments are all fairly low outgassing and suitable for space application.\n\nWhat I'm wondering is whether there are any 3D-printable plastics that are both suitable for space and also self-lubricating. Nylon is the obvious printable self-lubricating material, but I believe that it outgasses too much (I don't think NASA has tested nylon filament, at least I can't find it in the database). \n\nMy primary interest is in hobbyist-grade, FDM printers but if there are materials that can be commercially 3D printed, that is also of interest.\n\nAny ideas?\n\",Jesse Williams,\"Well, I think this depends on your machine. If you can support extrusion temps north of 350C and bed temps ~150C, you could try PEI:\n\nhttps://www.3dxtech.com/ultem-9085-3d-printing-filament/\n\nI believe PEI has self-lubricating properties, and has outgassing of ~0.40% TML (PET is ~0.43%). Of course, most off-the-shelf printers don't handle that sort of temp range. But then, industrial grade materials are likely to require industrial grade machines. :)\n\nYou could compare other DBs to NASA's as well.\n\nOutgassing DB: http://esmat.esa.int/materialframe.html\n\nBy the way, Nylon has an outgassing aspect >2.0% TML, which is definitely on the high side for vacuum applications.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4846,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,jgalak,3.452496054252184,4.293018291807974,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Self-lubricating 3D printable materials for space,\"Materials used in space need to not outgas significantly \n\nAn answer to this question: Would 3d-printed objects outgas in vacuum?\n\nreferred to the NASA outgassing database which showed that ABS, PET, and PLA filaments are all fairly low outgassing and suitable for space application.\n\nWhat I'm wondering is whether there are any 3D-printable plastics that are both suitable for space and also self-lubricating. Nylon is the obvious printable self-lubricating material, but I believe that it outgasses too much (I don't think NASA has tested nylon filament, at least I can't find it in the database). \n\nMy primary interest is in hobbyist-grade, FDM printers but if there are materials that can be commercially 3D printed, that is also of interest.\n\nAny ideas?\n\",Axel Fernandes,\"I would suggest material from IGUS . \nhttps://www.igus.com/wpck/17736/3Dprinting\n\nThey have a range of materials that are astonishingly easy to print with on desktop 3D printers also they are probably the world leaders in high load, self lubricating polymer bearings .\n\nI despise printing with PEI (Any type of ULTEM) and PEEK filaments as the upgrades required are a pain to install and keep running for any serious 3D printing related activity .\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4849,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,4.356564969431519,5.232995380243962,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,5.024356785862165,5.6397947780672535,How do I 3D-print fair dice?,\"As 3D printers become more and more reliable, their prints get better and better. But FDM printers do have their problems too: you print tiny ovals that smooch together at the edges, and infill makes it awkward at times. So, how do I make a 3D-printed die fair (as in: not favoring one side too much)?\n\",Trish,\"This is going to become a 3-step answer, as 3D Printing uses 3 different steps:\nDesign, Slicing & Material choice before I elaborate alternate ways to some fair dice. Yet, we start with the material, as we need to know about it first. In this case it does impact everything from design to slicing and the print.\n\nVariant A: Printed perfect(?)\n\nStep 1: Know your material\n\nLet's face it: most materials used in Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) face an non-homogenous shrinking between XY plane and Z axis. But if you know these specific properties for your printer/filament/temperature combo, you can compensate for that. Know your material - you will need that for slicing. Run a test print of a 10x10x10 mm cube and measure - the offset of the 10mm on each axis is what you need to compensate for via your slicer.\n\nStep 2: Design fairly\n\nPlatonic bodies\n\nWhen designing your STL, try to design as fair as you can. Either indent the numbers as little as you can while maintaining readability, or, if you have a 2 color printer, fill the numbers with same density material but from the other color.\n\nAnother thing to consider: indent the same surface area on each face of the body. That way you remove the same volume and thus same weight from each face, making it somewhat fair in the design, as the Center of Mass should be mostly in the center of the body now.\n\nPrism-\"\"dice\"\"\n\nA cylindrical (or rather: prism) design that is rolled over its \"\"cylinder\"\" surfaces might be the most easy to be designed fairly and be reasonably easy to slice, without having to resort to specialist slicing methods and tons of different compensations to keep in mind or having to assemble the object after print. It might be made with or without a \"\"fall over\"\" cone/elipsoid shape at both ends. Or it might be made like a dreidl, having only one conical/elipsoid tip for easy printing, possibly even havign the 'stem' printed as a different object and then assembled after print.\n\nStep 3: Slicing\n\nNow, there is a pretty fair design... but what settings to use when printing it?!\n\nInfill will make it wonky, so there are 2 options: solid (100% infill) and fully hollow (0% infill). Solid is easier to print and heavier. Hollow saves (depending on surface sides) 95% or more of the material in contrast to solid but can fall victim to sagging flat surfaces or wall thickness being not the same as flat area thickness.\n\nNow, after we chose the infill settings, we need to choose some other things. We want to print fairly delicate stuff, so we should use a smaller layer height than normally (0.05 mm, for example), and better a smaller nozzle - 0.2 mm or even less, if available. This again means, calibrating the printer/material combo for these two settings (XY / Z shrinking).\n\nAfter calibration, finally print! The dice should be pretty ok in fairness with that, but they are still not totally fair...\n\nExtra-step: Postprocessing\n\nYou might make a test for bias by floating it on a salt water layer under tap water... if you managed to get it solid enough to reduce the air inside it to make it sink between these layers. That way you can slightly sand the heavier side until it is unbiased.\n\nIf you manage to print somewhat fair and hollow, you might consider filling the cavity with some kind of resin (for example epoxy) to give the objects a bit of weight. This has some caveats on its own though: you'll have to leave a filling hole and you'll have to coat the inside equally or refill it several times to ensure a complete fill as most resins shrink when curing. Also, most resins heat up in curing, though usually not to the degree it melts FDM. As you work with resin, Wear gloves as it is aggressive to skin!\n\nBUT! 3D printink can do more!\n\nVariant B: Printed Perfection\n\nFDM is home printer stuff, but maybe you have access to something more... industrial. They are tricky in their own way, and you better know what you do with them.\n\nSLS (solid laser sintering) You just need to know your material shrinking coefficients in that case... and no, you don't need to think about infill, you only can do solid, 100% filled objects this way. But you will also have virtually no air in your print. Having SLS at home is rare though. This is however likely what you get when you order printed... but remember: the SLS powder is highly hygroscopic and will need to be sealed. Also, it does turn yellowish over time if it starts white. Using reused powder to a large degree degrades print quality also. And never look into the working machine. \n\nDLMS (Direct Laser Metal Smelting) is quite new and pretty much the metal variant of SLS. If you make your dice in that way and get them almost indistinguishable from cast metal. Polish the surfaces a little, don't sniff the breath the powder and don't look into the laser.\n\nDLP/SLA (Direct Light Processing/Stereo Lithography) Printing the thing from curing resin actually is pretty much close to SLS, but it has some resemblence to FDM in parts... biggest benefit: you can make very delicate details, and your layer heights get really thin - and you have a huge array of colors to choose from. But you have to take in mind, that you might want to either make the dice solid or design them with a hole in each of the sides or corners to allow surplus resin to flow out. You get perfect surfaces and can reuse the resin for quite a bitdepending on printer and storeage, but remember: SLA is a stinky thing, never look into the printing machine & the resins are very agressive to skin, so use gloves when working with the printing and the print until properly cleaned.\n\nVariant C: Lost Print\n\nBut wait, what if you don't actually print the dice but just print a positive of the dice and then make a negative mold from that?\n\nYes, that can be done. You know lost wax casting? There you go. Here's your step by step:\n\n\nPrint your dice.\n\n\nmaybe even puzzle the positive together from several faces printed all in the same orientation for maximum equality in the print.\n\nAdd a casting inlet and air outlet to the print.\ncast the positive in either a clay material or gypsum. Allow it to dry/set.\nBurn/melt out the positive, you get a hot and empty negative form.\ncast in liquid metal or a resin\nbreak mold, remove the inlets, polish some and... voila!\n\n\nIf you are good at green sand casting, you might use that instead of lost wax casting - and reuse the positive for a second casting. Or, if you are good, you can make two-part molds that are reuseable.\n\nVariant 3b: mold it!\n\nIf we can print a positive and make a mold from that, we might as well print a mold directly. We can just cast in \"\"cold\"\" materials then, but if you have something that can be cast that way (some resins or wax) you can make either the dice or casting sprues for lost wax casting that way. Designing here will be different on the last steps though: after doing your wanted object, use this as a \"\"tool\"\" to cut out from a more or less square block that surrounds it. cut out the inlet/outlet for material and air from the block. Then cut up to your liking, if you want a reusable multi-part mold. You might want to add a roove to add wire or a rubber band around the print to keep the mold together while casting.\n\nOr we go industrial with that model, grab a CNC and make the mold halves that way and give up on printing the dice...\n\ntl;dr:\n\nKnow your printer, know your material, design for your printer's requirements, design fairly, maybe avoid printing the actual dice but print a positive to be molded and cast or print a mold.\n\",4.306142032796979,2.0769199823829045\n6230,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,3.0576060275493275,3.759329766816229,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Easy way to refine a 3D-model for 3D printing by removing internal geometry,\"I have been given a proprietary 3D file of a real world item from an item manufacturer with the obligations not to hand it out to anyone to produce a print in a low single digit percentge scale of the object. The object model I was handed was given in STL format, and contains even the tiny geometry of the internals. The first set of files given did come with walls that became too thin to be printable in some areas, and I had to ask them to thicken these parts, which they did.\n\nNow, these files still contain tons of redundant internal geometry), like bolts that would be M20 or something IRL. The technical design is actually produced in a 1:1 scale - and thus much of the item's complexity is retained in scaling and slicing, because I was provided with neat, nested shells that don't intersect at all. A tiny piece of internal geometry after slicing for illustration without giving much about the actual object (which is under DND).\n\n\n\nALL of this internal is superflous, waste of material and additional print time.\n\nThe STL of this item contains (according to Meshmixer) about 40 shells, most of them representing single bolts, while the really relevant parts are all in the shell 1. The really problematic part is though, that even ditching these 39 superfous shells, the space reserved for them and a lot of internal geometry is left behind when I try to get rid of the internal geometry.\n\nSaturday I tried for hours to simplify the model first and then stitch away tons of the internal geometry with blender, but while this did reduce print time greatly for the internal cavities were gone, the simplification did mess up other parts of the model to a degree that wasn't nice anymore and it messed up the scaling. Also, it was very time consuming - 6 hours or more - which makes this a very bad time-effect ratio. The print with the retaining 2 % of the vertices was... ok, but not as nice as with the half million vertices from the original file, mainly because I had to simplify the model first to even have a chance to see into the model to get the internal cavity vertices grabbed and removed/merged, before fixing any holes left from the mercyless treatment by Meshmixer's auto-repair feature.\n\nIs there a way to analyse a model for internal structure and remove them for slicing without having to remodel a 500k vertex / 50 MB object in its full? It would be best if such a way was somewhat automated.\n\nMy setup usually uses Cura as a slicing engine, my modeling softwares of choice are - in this order - Fusion360 or DesignSpark Mechanical. If nothing else helps and I have to attack singe vertices I do my way around Blenderauto-updated via Steam. Meshmixer I usually use only to fix up models before slicing.\n\",Trish,\"About 10 minutes after writing the question, it suddenly dawned on me, that I was not using Meshmixer to its full potential, and especially not a simple property of Cura:\n\n\nCura can discard all parts of a model, that are intersecting a closed volume and thus are inside another volume - fixing intersecting shells this way. This option is called \"\"Union Overlapping Volumes\"\"\nMeshmixer can, using the meshmix tool, add simple and somewhat complex geometries to specific places in given size and orientation.\n\n\nNow, these two parts can be used to get rid or complex internal geometry by intentionally setting it up an intersecting shell. Usually intersecting shells are a no-no for good 3D design, but by having something - for example a cylinder - intersect just the internal geometry and enclosing it, these parts vanish in the slicing, if the slicer is set to fix intersecting shells by ignoring internal geometry. Cura does so with a simple setting, one that seems to be on by default in the 3.3.1 distribution. \n\nSo the odd solution to how to reduce a model's internal geometry without impacting the outer look can be this at times: \n\n\nManually add geometry, that (fully) encloses the internal geometry and turns it into an intersecting shell, allowing (some) slicer softwares to ignore this part.\n\n\nTo illustrate, almost the same area of the object before and after the added cylinder:\n\n \n\nAs one can see, the structure became much simpler, as the cylinder cuts away all the internal structure (the 'spokes' and 'axle' one might want to identify from the left picture, but that would be a misidentification) is gone. Much less internal geometry is retained and instead it is now filled with a cylindrical space of nice and fast(er) to print infill, here \"\"Quarter Cubic\"\".\n\nWhile this is just a partly automated solution - demanding the manual addition of the intentional intersecting shell - I am yet to be taught about a fully automated way.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n6342,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,2.8153892694839717,6.566692348679662,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.8086301675739853,What voltage does the Creality Ender-3 run at?,\"I am pondering about buying a Creality Ender-3, and I am honestly confused about some reviews. Some claim it is running 24 V, one did claim it was 12 V, most don't mention it. Since I know about some issues with the clamps, if I get myself an Ender-3, I want to replace the hotend with a proper one from day one. So knowing its voltage is needed to order the right parts.\n\",Greenonline,\"Bearing in mind that the specifications on Amazon's page are sometimes not 100% (even though they are in this case), it is always best to check on the manufacturer's website.\n\nFrom Creality3D's own website, Creality3D.shop, on the Creality3D Ender-3 product page, Creality3D Ender-3 3D Printer Economic Ender DIY KITS, the specifications are given as (emphasis is mine):\n\n\n ender-3 Machine Parameter:\n \n \n Modeling Technology：FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling）\n Printing Size：220*220*250mm \n Machine Size：440*410*465mm \n Package weight：8kg Max \n Traveling Speed：180mm/s \n Filament：1.75mm PLA,TPU,ABS \n Input：AC 100-265V 50-60Hz \n Output：DC 24V 15A 360W \n Layer Thickness：0.1-0.4mm \n Nozzle diameter：0.4mm \n Precision：±0.1mm \n File Format：STL,OBJ,G-Code \n Working Mode：Online or SD offline \n Max Nozzle Temperature：255℃ \n Max Hot bed Temperature：110℃\n \n\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n6342,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,2.8153892694839717,6.566692348679662,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.8086301675739853,What voltage does the Creality Ender-3 run at?,\"I am pondering about buying a Creality Ender-3, and I am honestly confused about some reviews. Some claim it is running 24 V, one did claim it was 12 V, most don't mention it. Since I know about some issues with the clamps, if I get myself an Ender-3, I want to replace the hotend with a proper one from day one. So knowing its voltage is needed to order the right parts.\n\",Trish,\"After checking the amazon listings of the ender-3, they contain more information than the gearbest listing: indeed it is a 24V machine.\n\n\n Product description\n \n [...]\n \n Output: DC 24 V 15 A 360 W\n \n [...]\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6355,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,3.0576060275493275,6.461901108824887,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,3.0574377365420307,2.453507803626381,Writing G-code : swiping at start of print,\"Ok, I did it, I ordered myself an Ender-3, a genuine 24V e3D hotend, inductive sensor and some better tubing/clamps to cope with the problem the CR10/Ender line has occasionally.\n\nBut now I need to fix up my Cura for the machine coming in. The start is the CR10, and fixing the dimensions is easy.\n\nBut now comes the tricky part: Start and End G-code. For my TronXY I never bothered with changing it away from the \"\"basic\"\" settings that a \"\"custom 3D printer\"\" on Marlin gave, but this time I want to know what I type in there. The basic code, after I dragged out the G-code handbook from the RepRap wiki to add the missing comments is:\n\nG28 ;Home\nG1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the Gantry up 15mm going fast\n;Prime the extruder\nG92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance\nG1 F200 E3 ; extrude 3mm of feed stock\nG92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance\n\n\nThe RepRap Wiki suggests that there could be made so much more from this. \n\nI would love to swipe the nozzle before starting to print, making sure that the curled up filament from this first extrusion doesn't get squished against the nozzle and make a bad first layer.\n\nHow does an example (commented) G-code for swiping the nozzle look like?\n\",Trish,\"The lazy way: Skirt/Brim\n\nWith my TronXY X1 I learned pretty fast, that this first bit of extrusion on an unheated bed can totally mess up the first layer by being just in the way, as explained in the question.\n\nTo some degree, this behavior can be avoided by adding a skirt of a certain length. An equally good alternative that also increases bed adhesion for tricky parts is the brim. Both are not set via G-code but can be added by the slicer. In Ultimaker Cura both are found in the tab Build Plate Adhesion as type, as the following pictures show:\n\nSkirt: 2 lines, minimum length 250mm\n\n\n\nBrim: minimum length 250mm, 8mm width\n\n\n\nThe Prusa Priming-line\n\nAngus/MakersMuse introduced me to the Prusa Priming Line in one of his tutorial videos. For his Wanhao he used (for the video) just this start G-code script:\n\nG28\nG1 Y-3 F500 ; Move out of print volume\nG1 X60 E9 F500 ; start purge line\nG1 X100 E12.5 F500 ; finish purge line\n\n\nThis resulted in a nice line like this:\n\n\nIn Ultimaker Cura, this piece of code is added via the preferences of a machine. In Cura 3, you usually had to add the starting G-code yourself. Since at least version 4.2.1, all preset machines contain some variant of a priming line, usually at the left side.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6355,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,3.0576060275493275,6.461901108824887,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,3.0574377365420307,2.453507803626381,Writing G-code : swiping at start of print,\"Ok, I did it, I ordered myself an Ender-3, a genuine 24V e3D hotend, inductive sensor and some better tubing/clamps to cope with the problem the CR10/Ender line has occasionally.\n\nBut now I need to fix up my Cura for the machine coming in. The start is the CR10, and fixing the dimensions is easy.\n\nBut now comes the tricky part: Start and End G-code. For my TronXY I never bothered with changing it away from the \"\"basic\"\" settings that a \"\"custom 3D printer\"\" on Marlin gave, but this time I want to know what I type in there. The basic code, after I dragged out the G-code handbook from the RepRap wiki to add the missing comments is:\n\nG28 ;Home\nG1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the Gantry up 15mm going fast\n;Prime the extruder\nG92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance\nG1 F200 E3 ; extrude 3mm of feed stock\nG92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance\n\n\nThe RepRap Wiki suggests that there could be made so much more from this. \n\nI would love to swipe the nozzle before starting to print, making sure that the curled up filament from this first extrusion doesn't get squished against the nozzle and make a bad first layer.\n\nHow does an example (commented) G-code for swiping the nozzle look like?\n\",0scar,\"What code we have so far\n\nThe code already made by Ultimaker Cura 3 (and then commented on) can be explained a little more:\n\nG28 ;Home\nThis homes your machine to hit end stop positions, from now on your printer knows the coordinates of the print volume. This place it knows as <0-0-0> - check where that is: above the print surface or next to it!\nG1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the Gantry up 15mm going fast\nInstruct the build plate to move down, or in your case lift the head up 15 mm at 6000 mm/min\n;Prime the extruder\nThis is a comment that the nex code will deal with priming the nozzle\nG92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance\nG92 sets the position of the extruder by resetting the current position to the specified value of zero\nG1 F200 E3 ; extrude 3mm of feed stock\nThis will extrude 3 mm of filament at a feedrate of 200 mm/min\nG92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance\nThis will reset the extruder length again to zero\n\nResult of the code\n\nBasically you will have some filament dangling on your nozzle now, or falling of as the nozzle is hot creating a fine string. You now are facing the possibility that the primed material will be dragged along the build plate to the start of the print.\n\nNozzle Preparation: Priming sequences\n\nUltimaker 3: 'blob'&swipe\n\nAn alternative I really like is the priming sequence of the Ultimaker 3. The hot end is instructed near the origin of the printer at about a height of 2 mm above the build plate when it starts to extrude plastic, once the extruded plastic becomes a puddle of about 6 mm in diameter the build plate lowers a few mm's and keep extruding for a bit. It then moves in positive Y direction (to the back) and raises the platform (this is the swipe action), then retracts and starts to move to the print start. Now the puddle of filament stays near the origin and will not be dragged. \n\nYou can easily make a similar schematic for your printer, I've done so also for various printers. Try and experiment what works best for you. The swipe action is the movement where the nozzle will be instructed to move near the build plate while moving in a certain direction (Y or X), a height of a few tenths is enough to swipe.\n\nI don't have my exact profile here, but you could add (skipping feedrates):\n\nG1 Y15 Z0.2 ; moves the nozzle backwards and down from 15 mm to 0.2 mm\nG1 Y20 Z0.2 ; swipes the nozzle, this should cut off the \"\"worm\"\"\nG1 Z1 ; raise for movement to start of print to add a little space to travel\n\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n6358,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,3.0576060275493275,5.654182716339327,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.929104701733314,3.4319460411998994,Inductive Sensor in 24 V machine?,\"I am getting a 24 V based Ender 3. From the factory, it has an aluminium bed. So I also put this LJ12 A3-4-Z/BX Inductive NPN NO 4 mm with 6-36 V operation current into the box together with a few other spare parts. Now, as I read up on these things something dawns on me: The normal input and output voltage of a simple switch is 5 V, as sensors are ran on 5 V on most boards (and in digital logics). The sensors run on 6 V plus though.\n\nI do not want to fry my machine by putting in 24 V into the sensor input: What do I have to do (besides making a mount)?\n\",0scar,\"The inductive sensors work better when you apply a higher voltage than 5 V. Usually they are rated for 6-36 V, but please do check.\n\nTo prevent frying your board when connecting the sensor to (12 or) 24 Volts you could optically isolate the 5 V and the (12 or) 24 V circuit with an OptoCoupler module:\n\nImage of an optocoupler module\n\n\nThis module uses an optical switch based on the output of the sensor and should be correctly connected:\n\nImage of connecting an optocoupler module to the sensor and to the board\nPlease note that the image uses a capacitive sensor rather than a inductive sensor, both are connected similarly\n\n\nNote that there are many sorts of sensors, a few are listed here. Generally speaking, the larger the diameter of the sensor, the larger the detection distance to the bed. Note that these work well with metal beds (Iron/steel better than Aluminium), but will not work for glass (capacitive sensors work on glass but are prone to drift by moisture in the air, a touch sensor may then be a better alternative).\n\",3.367452517504837,2.0769199823829045\n6358,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,3.0576060275493275,5.654182716339327,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.929104701733314,3.4319460411998994,Inductive Sensor in 24 V machine?,\"I am getting a 24 V based Ender 3. From the factory, it has an aluminium bed. So I also put this LJ12 A3-4-Z/BX Inductive NPN NO 4 mm with 6-36 V operation current into the box together with a few other spare parts. Now, as I read up on these things something dawns on me: The normal input and output voltage of a simple switch is 5 V, as sensors are ran on 5 V on most boards (and in digital logics). The sensors run on 6 V plus though.\n\nI do not want to fry my machine by putting in 24 V into the sensor input: What do I have to do (besides making a mount)?\n\",JPC,\"Minimalist Solution\n\nThe very simplest possible implementation is to use a single resistor(!) to protect the input pin, as described in this source. The AVR inputs are protected from over/under voltage by internal silicon diodes D1 and D2. The input resistor must be sized such that it will conduct no more than 1 mA when the internal clamping diode, D1, conducts at Vcc+0.5V, or 5.5V in this case. A 22K resistor could work in this case if we use our 24V supply for the sensor. Our current through the clamping diode is calculated by Ohm's Law as (24V - 5.5V)/22K = 0.84 mA.\n\nThere is no reason, in this case, to cut so close to the bone though. We do not need particularly high speed detection for this application, so a 100K resistor would be a better choice, and limits diode D1 to 0.19 mA. This gives additional protection for voltage spikes.\n\nThis solution works well until the internal diode gets fried by a spike or surge, so it is much better to add redundancy, and use a pair of external Schottky clamping diodes, which have a lower forward voltage drop and will conduct before the internal silicon diodes.\n\nSo, my solution, (the one I plan to implement soon on my own Ender 3 Pro*), is from this source article and looks like this:\n\n\n\nWhere R1, D3, and D4 are my external components as described, and C1 is omitted for simplicity. (If C1 is used, it forms a low-pass RC filter, so you'd need to size it appropriately. If we find that noise or 'bounce' is an issue, we can add C1 easily later.)\n\nIn my opinion a single 100K resistor and two Schottky diodes are adequate protection for this circuit, and the 6-36V proximity sensor will work very well on the available 24V supply.\n\n*Based on the first comment to this proposed solution, I recognize the need to look carefully at the failsafe property here. Depending on whether the existing Z endstop is included in the loop, and how Marlin handles this too will determine whether this is a satisfactory solution.\nI'll leave my part of the discussion there for now, until I get closer to design and implementation on my own machine.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6399,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,3.267423727073639,7.054945401367791,3.507933925167123,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.8086301675739853,Recalibrating Home-position,\"I got myself the Ender 3. The Home position is about 1mm left and 2mm in front of the front left corner. Now, the hotend center axis is 11mm from the carrier plate with the \"\"Mk 10\"\" cooler mounted right onto a pair of 5mm pegs that are part of the plate. As I want to change to an e3D v6, which has a diameter of 22mm, I will have to move out some distance (ca. 13mm) to the current Z axis. This means, that any Y command will be off by this distance.\n\nHow do I reconfigure the Home position to have an offset to the 0-positions gained from the limit switches?\n\nAccording to Repetier Host it runs on Marlin 1.0. Creality offers the firmware on their website as a .hex file - which is hard to edit.\n\",Greenonline,\"Following on from 0scar's answer\n\n\n\nTo change or obtain your EEPROM settings you need to open Repetier Host (for Linux or Windows, v2.1.3 - the OSX version I tried, v1.1.0, didn't seem to have this functionality).\n\nTo change existing settings\n\nFrom How to make changes to the EEPROM data. Apparently there is an EEPROM editor available (in Repetier Host). From this post:\n\n\n If you see it in eeprom editor just change them. If it is repetier-firmware based it will store changes in eeprom on pressing \"\"ok\"\".\n\n\nTo retrieve existing settings\n\nThis post from retrieval of existing settings..., shows how:\n\n\n To copy eeprom data:\n \n \n Connect with host\n Open eeprom settings\n Select export eeprom settings. That saves all data in a epr file and you can later use import eepsom settings to rewrite it.\n \n\n\nAn example of the resulting file is shown in the question, Help with Repetier firmware variables (Dimension Dual Delta - J Group Robotics), a sample of which I have included below:\n\n<Repetier-Firmware-EEPROM>\n<epr pos=\"\"1028\"\" type=\"\"0\"\" value=\"\"0\"\">Language</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"75\"\" type=\"\"2\"\" value=\"\"115200\"\">Baudrate</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"129\"\" type=\"\"3\"\" value=\"\"32.752\"\">Filament printed [m]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"125\"\" type=\"\"2\"\" value=\"\"21644\"\">Printer active [s]</epr>\n<epr pos=\"\"79\"\" type=\"\"2\"\" value=\"\"0\"\">Max. inactive time [ms,0=off]</epr>\n\n\n\n\nHowever, you would appear to have to be running Repetier firmware for these two solutions to work, and not Marlin (but I may be wrong).\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6399,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,3.267423727073639,7.054945401367791,3.507933925167123,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.8086301675739853,Recalibrating Home-position,\"I got myself the Ender 3. The Home position is about 1mm left and 2mm in front of the front left corner. Now, the hotend center axis is 11mm from the carrier plate with the \"\"Mk 10\"\" cooler mounted right onto a pair of 5mm pegs that are part of the plate. As I want to change to an e3D v6, which has a diameter of 22mm, I will have to move out some distance (ca. 13mm) to the current Z axis. This means, that any Y command will be off by this distance.\n\nHow do I reconfigure the Home position to have an offset to the 0-positions gained from the limit switches?\n\nAccording to Repetier Host it runs on Marlin 1.0. Creality offers the firmware on their website as a .hex file - which is hard to edit.\n\",Trish,\"Greenonline and I spent this evening hacking/reverse engineering the Ender3 to solve this. Greenonline also wrote about this in his blog.\n\nStep 1 - Get the Firmware\n\nTo do this, there are basically two ways:\n\n\nFind the a ready-to-use firmware\nMake your own\n\n\nVariant 1 would be to use the pre-supplied .hex files from Creality or some other manufacturer. Variant 2 means writing the settings yourself or using Repetier firmware to write the files for you. In the case of the Ender 3, the chip used sadly disqualified Repetier firmware, so writing it yourself is the only option.\n\nTo write the firmware yourself or using Repetier firmware, you need the old settings. To get these, connect the printer via USB, connect it with a software like Repetier host and send M503 to get all the settings.\n\nNow, either hack those into Repetier firmware or use a blank Marlin.ino and the Arduino IDE to customise it. In the later case, you need to put the folder Marlin-?.?.X.ZIP/Marlin-?.?.X/Marlin into the Arduino folder in Documents (Windows) or Home (Mac). Now open the Marlin.ino in Arduino IDE. Set up the new firmware with these base settings or adjust as needed.\n\nStep 2 - Adjust\n\nNow that we have our Configuration files (in the end we pretty much skipped step 1 and grabbed a fitting (German!) one from Christian, a German maker also known as \"\"Chaos-Drucker\"\"), we need to first adjust them as needed to fit our needs and then compile them properly (next step!). As an alternative (English!) base to work with, the TH3D firmware is also available, provided by the Hooglands and team at TH3D.\n\nSo, let's open your Marlin.ino with arduino and find the X_MIN_POS (CTRL+F > X_MIN_POS > Search all sketches). \n\nIn the configurations we grabbed the sketch file Configuration.h contains lines 786-789 (might differ):\n\n// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.\n#define X_MIN_POS -10\n#define Y_MIN_POS -15\n#define Z_MIN_POS 0\n\n\nAdjust these till the wanted position is achieved - Repetier Host can help here to determine the right position.\n\nStep 3 - Compile\n\nThe hardest step with the Ender3 was to get the code to actually compile, as it uses an ATmega1284P 16Bit which isn't supported by Arduino natively. While the MightyCore supports this chip, it doesn't compile with this hardware library. However, Christian did figure out that the Sanguino set to an ATmega 1284P 16bit does work. These belong as extracted folders into the Arduino/hardware folder, usually in your Documents (if you use Windows) or Home (on mac). Now, we did set Tools>Board:> Sanguino and Tools>Processor:>ATmega1284 or ATmega1284P (16 MHz)\n\nIt was also mandatory to have the U8glib.h for Arduino installed. To do this, download the zip from github, then in the Arduino software Sketch>Include Library>Add .ZIP Library... and choose the whole zip repository to auto install.\n\nWith these settings we were able to compile the settings.\n\nStep 4 - Getting it on the machine\n\nMost people would expect to read about bootloaders and flashing now, and indeed that is an option. But as I had just figured out how to install firmware from .hex and so I wondered: Can't we make .hex files from our settings? And yes, Arduino supports this.\n\nSo, in Arduino IDE press Ctrl+Alt+S (or Sketch > Export Compiled Binary). This will result in two files: \n\n\nMarlin.ino.sanguino.hex\nMarlin.ino.with_bootloader.sanguino.hex\n\n\nOf these two, the Marlin.ino.sanguino.hex is the interesting one for \"\"direct flashing\"\" via CURA. Use this file with the process starting at Step 2 here or use one of Greenonline's solutions to get the firmware flashed - no bootloader needed!\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n6654,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,2.8153892694839717,6.367709851935129,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,How to install a .hex firmware?,\"Creality does offer its firmware on creality3d.cn as .hex files. These are pretty good as backups as one can't alter and destroy them by accident.\n\nBut... How do you install them?!\n\n\n\nThis is about installing firmware directly and without another microcontroller. To use another mictrocontroller is How to install new firmware via a Microcontroller?\n\",Greenonline,\"A major part of the Arduino IDE is sort of semi-hidden, and that is some guy called avrdude. Actually, AVRDUDE – AVR Downloader/UploaDEr is a standalone binary.\n\nAs an aside, there is also gcc which does the compiling, but that is another matter. The avrdude uploads the compiled binary provided by gcc on to the Arduino, via the USB port (COM port).\n\nYou can invoke this from the command line (assuming that you have the Arduino IDE installed).\n\nYou will need to specify (see command line option descriptions):\n\n\nThe baud rate of the COM port (-b)\nThe COM port (-P)\nThe processor used in the board (for the Arduino Mega2560 board: ATmega2560) (-p)\nThe path to the .hex file (-U)\nThe path to the .conf file of avrdude itself (-C)\nVerbose mode, so see what is happening (-v)\nSpecify the programmer to be used (-c). See the -c option on command line option descriptions for more information.\nDisable auto erase for flash (-D)\n\n\nThe command will be of the form:\n\n<path to arduino>/hardware/tools/avr/bin/avrdude\n-C<path to arduino>/hardware/tools/avr/etc/avrdude.conf\n-v -patmega2560 -carduino -b 115200 -cstk500v2\n-P<name of serial port>\n-D -Uflash:w:<path to hex file>:i\n\n\nThis example above:\n\n\nSpecifies the full path to the avrdude binary\nSpecifies the full path to the avrdude .conf configuration file\nVerbose mode\nThe ATmega2560 processor used in the Arduino Mega2560 board\nThe Arduino programmer\nThe baud rate of the USB port\nThe Atmel STK500 Version 2.x firmware programmer (may not be required)\nThe port to which the Arduino board is connected\nDisables auto-flash as it is not required – Auto erase is not used for ATxmega devices as these devices can use page erase before writing each page so no explicit chip erase is required. Note however that any page not affected by the current operation will retain its previous contents.\nThe memory to be uploaded to and the path to the .hex file (see the -U option on command line option descriptions for more information):\n\n\nflash specifies the flash ROM of the device.\nw: read the specified file and write it to the specified device memory\n:i specifies Intel Hex\n\n\n\nExamples\n\nFor Windows\n\nC:\\dev\\Arduino\\hardware\\tools\\avr\\bin\\avrdude \n-CC:\\dev\\Arduino\\hardware\\tools\\avr\\etc\\avrdude.conf \n-v -patmega2560 -carduino -b115200 -cstk500v2\n-P\\\\.\\COM1 \n-D -Uflash:w:C:\\Users\\<username>\\Documents\\firmware.hex:i\n\n\nFor OSX\n\n/Applications/Arduino/hardware/tools/avr/bin/avrdude \n-C/Applications/Arduino/hardware/tools/avr/etc/avrdude.conf -v -patmega2560 -carduino -b115200 -cstk500v2 -P\\\\.\\COM1 -D -Uflash:w:/Users/<username>/Documents/Arduino/firmware.hex:i\n\n\nAlternatives\n\nIf you are not comfortable using a command line interface (CLI) it might be easier to use a GUI solution…\n\nXLoader\n\nFor a Windows only solution, see Uploading Arduino HEX files with XLoader\n\n\n\nFrom the author’s website:\n\n\n I’ve made a small program that can be used to upload your own *.hex\n files to arduino boards using the bootloader. That means you don’t\n need a flash programmer. I made it for my own use and found it pretty\n useful. So now I’ve made a more user friendly version.. To use it\n compile you’re code in something like AvrStudio. Then simply start\n XLoader.exe, pick a hex file and press upload. That’s it. Good news it\n now also supports Arduino Uno.\n\n\nArduino Builder\n\nFrom Arduino Builder – standalone utility for building and uploading Arduino sketches\n\n\n \n Choose file, either a sketch file (.ino), an HEX file (.hex) or an ELF file (.elf)\n Choose the board type in the dropdown list.\n Click on the serial port (or USBASP button) and theuploading will be proceeded.\n \n\n\nArduino Uploader\n\nFrom the same page, there is Arduino Uploader which is a command line version of Arduino Builder.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n6654,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,2.8153892694839717,6.367709851935129,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,How to install a .hex firmware?,\"Creality does offer its firmware on creality3d.cn as .hex files. These are pretty good as backups as one can't alter and destroy them by accident.\n\nBut... How do you install them?!\n\n\n\nThis is about installing firmware directly and without another microcontroller. To use another mictrocontroller is How to install new firmware via a Microcontroller?\n\",Trish,\"Creality also does provide an installation PDF. The process they propose is twofold and might need different settings on other machines1. Spots where I assume you might need to adjust are noted withA. Note that this solution depends on CURA.\n\n1. Install the printer as a periphery machine.\n\nThis part is specific for Windows. If you use Linux or a MAC, you will need to use a different setup, but you might get the same results.\n\n\nTurn on the power on the printer and connect it from the MircoUSB to a USB of the computer. This should automatically install the driver. If not, the Driver is on the SD card provided with the Printer2. \n\n\nTo manually install windows Key + \"\"MANAGER\"\" and choose Device manager. Find the serial port that shows yellow, Right-click, choose Update driver software > Browse my computer for driver software. Now Browse, find the location of USB driver on the SD card and click Next.\nGenerally,the serial port(COM) you need update has the biggest number, but can change.\nA good idea is to confirm the correct port with a software like Repetier Host, with which you can control the printer directly - if it works, you got the drivers and the port correct. Also, you know the correct Baudrate.\n\nAfter the driver installation, launch CURA to do some settings. In File > Preferences:\n\n\nPrint Window is \"\"Pronterface UI\"\"A\n\nSwitch to Machine > Machine Settings:\n\n\nSerial Port: choose the one that just was updated\nBaudrate: 115200A\n\n\n\n2. Upload the .hex file via cura\n\n\nMachine > Install custom Firmware\nMake sure the printer is connected, then OK\nfind the .hex file on your PC, then confirm.\nWait for the process to finish.\n\n\n\n\n1 - most likely, you will have to change the baudrate\n2 - This might not be true for all manufacturers, but is for creality. Other manufacturers might have different sources for these.\nA - Adjust as needed!\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6657,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,2.528907649931287,4.479492550032667,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Export firmware as a .hex,\"Because .hex files can be installed without any need of an Arduino (serving as an ISP) to flash the firmware on Creality machines I was wondering, if firmware compiled via some other means (for example the Repetier firmware or Arduino) could be exported as a .hex file.\n\",Greenonline,\"Current versions of Arduino IDE\n\nUse the menu option in the Arduino IDE:\n\nSketch ► Export Compiled Binary\n\nSee post #6 from the thread How to get hex file from arduino files ?:\n\n\n Well, since it was bumped it's worth mentioning there is a new way to\n do this added in Arduino IDE 1.6.5:\n \n \n Sketch > Export Compiled Binary\n If you are doing this with an example then you will be prompted to save the sketch in another location.\n Wait until the sketch has finished compiling.\n Sketch > Show Sketch Folder\n The .hex file will be in the sketch folder\n \n\n\nHere is a screenshot for OS X:\n\n\n \n\n\nThere is no need to fully compile, a simple verify will suffice. From post #10:\n\n\n Reopen Arduino, and open a sketch of your choice (use the Examples->Digital->Blink if you have no other sketches). Hit the Verify button to compile the sketch. Now, navigate to the build.path folder. You should see a bunch of files including one with a .hex extension.\n\n\n\n\nOlder versions of Arduino IDE\n\nIf using an older version of the Arduino IDE, from post #12:\n\n\n Try this if using an older version of Arduino \n \n Taking out HEX file from Arduino in 3 simple steps\n\n\n\nOpen Arduino IDE\nFile ► Preferences menu\n\n\n\n \n \n \n\n\n\nFind \"\"Show verbose output during \"\" and check the \"\"compilation\"\" box\nLocate the preferences.txt file and open it\nAdd the following line (this is the path to the directory where the hexfile will be stored): \n\nbuild.path=C:\\Users\\<username>\\Desktop\\hexfile\n\nChange the following line\n\nexport.delete_target_folder=true\n\n\nto \n\nexport.delete_target_folder=false\n\nQuit the Arduino IDE and restart it.\nNow when you compile, the directory specified in build.path will contain the .hex file (along with other files which can be ignored)\n\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n6685,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,2.528907649931287,6.101708460109535,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,How to install new ATmega firmware via the ISP pins?,\"While uploading .hex firmware directly onto boards that allow this via CURA, this is not always an option for all machines (for lack of a functioning USB-connectable port for example).\n\nOn both my TronXY X1 board (Melzi 2.0 V5 with ATMEGA1284P) and the Creality Ender 3 (Creality 3D v.1.1.2 with Δ ATMEL ATMEGA1284P AU 1726) I spotted these 6 pins labeled ISP that are supposed to allow to connect an Arduino or similar to flash firmware. According to the RepRap Wiki, Melzi is a derivative of the Sanguinololu and both are Sanguino Compatible.\n\nAfter creating the new firmware in Arduino IDE and making sure it compiles for the correct chip in the board, how can I use an Arduino Uno or other microcontroller to flash the new firmware via the ISP to my printer?\n\nThis is asking specifically about ATmega based controller boards, using the Arduino toolchain.\n\",Greenonline,\"Considering AVR based controller boards...\n\nYou might not need an additional Arduino, to serve as an ISP. It really depends upon the board. There are basically three scenarios:\n\n\nController board which is Arduino based - Arduino Mega 2560 with a RAMPS 1.4 - with a bootloader\nController board which is Arduino based - Arduino Mega 2560 with a RAMPS 1.4 - without a bootloader\nController board which is AVR based board (no separate Arduino board) - as is the case with an Ender-3 and the TronXY board1 - without a bootloader\n\n\nOption 1 is the easiest, and you simply upload with the USB cable, directly from the Arduino IDE.\n\nOptions 2 and 3 is where you would require an In-circuit Serial Programmer (ISP). Such as a USBasp: USBasp - USB programmer for Atmel AVR controllers\n\n\n\nor you can use another Arduino, see Arduino as ISP and Arduino Bootloaders.\n\nAn ISP device basically converts the USB to TTL signals (along with a serial protocol (JTAG or derivative)) which then connects to the ICSP2 interface on the controller board:\n\n\n\nScenario 1\n\nAs stated above, you simply connect the board to the PC/Mac using the USB cable and, within the Arduino IDE, you hit Upload - ensuring that you have the correct Board (i.e. Mega2560) and Port selected in the Tools menu.\n\nScenario 2\n\nFor the Mega2560 the pins the MOSI, MISO and SCK are broken out on to are:\n\nArduino / Genuino Board MOSI MISO SCK Level\nMega1280 or Mega2560 51 or ICSP-4 50 or ICSP-1 52 or ICSP-3 5V\n\n\nTo program the Mega2560 using an Uno, connect as follows:\n\n\n\nor using the ISP connector (in this diagram the electrolytic capacitor3 is not shown):\n\n\n\nTake note of the electrolytic capacitor3 on the programming device:\n\n\n The 10 µF electrolytic capacitor connected to RESET and\n GND of the programming board is needed only for the boards that have\n an interface between the microcontroller and the computer's USB, like\n Mega, Uno, Mini, Nano. Boards like Leonardo, Esplora and Micro, with\n the USB directly managed by the microcontroller, don't need the\n capacitor. \n\n\nor using the Mega's ICSP connector, from Atmega bootloader programmer (see original image):\n\n\n\nNote D10 is used, not RESET4\n\nScenario 3\n\nSo, to use an Arduino Uno on your controller board, which is scenario 3 (an AVR based board, but not an Arduino board per se), you would need to connect the Uno to the ICSP of the controller board like this:\n\nICSP Uno\n\nMOSI D11\nMISO D12\nSCK D13\nGND GND\n5V 5V\nRESET D10\n\n\nor, like this, from Chaos Drucker - CREALITY ENDER3 MIT MARLIN AUSSTATTEN (see original image):\n\nThere is an error in the image and the red line should go to D10 and not D9 as shown\n\n\n\nNote, again, that the RESET on the Arduino Uno's ISP connector is not used (and Pin 10 is used to connect to the controller's ICSP's RESET pin instead)4. \n\nConfigure the Arduino IDE\n\nThen in the Arduino IDE you will need to select the Programmer to be used, in this case Uno as an ISP, like so:\n\n\n\nOnce you have connected correctly, and selected the programmer, then you should be able to hit compile and upload as usual.\n\n\n\nFootnotes\n\n1 Which both use the same board - see this answer to What voltage does the Creality Ender-3 run at?\n\n2 In case you are wondering, see What's the difference between ICSP vs ISP?:\n\n\n The difference between ISP and ICSP is a hyphen.\n \n ISP stands for In-circuit Serial Programming, and ICSP stands for In\n Circuit Serial Programming.\n \n Any arrangement that allows you to program a microcontroller while it\n is in a circuit using a serial protocol can be called ISP or ICSP.\n\n\nSee also Wikipedia - In-system programming.\n\n3 See When using an Arduino as an ISP, is the capacitor required or not? \n\n4 Why? From Can the Arduino Uno become an AVR programmer and use the ICSP header to program the target board:\n\n\n First of all, as configured, the RESET pin can not be used as an output pin. In order to use it as an I/O pin, you would have to program the RSTDISBL fuse. But once you do that, as jippie said, it becomes near-impossible to reprogram your Arduino (if you have the socketed through hole variety of the MCU, you could pull it out and put it into a high voltage programmer; in all other cases, it's effectively impossible).\n \n So in theory, you can use the ICSP header the way you suggest. In practice, it's under almost any conceivable circumstance a terrible idea.\n\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n6807,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,2.8153892694839717,5.385121066948358,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Sudden underextrusion on Ender3,\"I have printed a couple weeks perfectly fine with my Ender 3. Two weeks ago I changed the firmware but the settings were all fine and resulted in good prints.\n\nNow, suddenly during a print the extruder motor started to under-extrude.\n\nI thought \"\"hey, could be the file\"\" and used a test file that printed well two weeks ago: Under-extrusion, barely a line.\n\nI looked at the extruder, no filament grinding, no clicking from lost steps or moving against pressure. The Bowden tube is firmly seated though.\n\nI measured what is coming out: instead of 50 mm I ordered to push into the hotend got 28.7 mm. So I went and looked at the steps/mm, which is 93, exactly what it is also on the TronXY X1, which uses pretty much the same extruder setup but for a different style, same sized gear.\n\nI cleaned out the nozzle nevertheless, but that didn't change the results.\n\nWhat might be wrong and how can I fix it?!\n\nEdit:\n\n\nTouching the filament while I was printing a freshly sliced test, I realized it DID lose steps, just the filament did slip back (almost) quietly. Pressing a finger on the filament made me able to feel the shiver in it.\nInspecting what was printed showed, that the nozzle had migrated against the print platform a little over the weeks.\n\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"Sounds similar to something I experienced with my Y-axis. The grub screw on the toothed wheel had come a little loose, and I was experiencing a reasonably consistent degree of slip.\n\nIn the extruder particularly, these locking screws might not be too obvious to check.\n\",0.0,0.0\n6807,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,2.8153892694839717,5.385121066948358,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Sudden underextrusion on Ender3,\"I have printed a couple weeks perfectly fine with my Ender 3. Two weeks ago I changed the firmware but the settings were all fine and resulted in good prints.\n\nNow, suddenly during a print the extruder motor started to under-extrude.\n\nI thought \"\"hey, could be the file\"\" and used a test file that printed well two weeks ago: Under-extrusion, barely a line.\n\nI looked at the extruder, no filament grinding, no clicking from lost steps or moving against pressure. The Bowden tube is firmly seated though.\n\nI measured what is coming out: instead of 50 mm I ordered to push into the hotend got 28.7 mm. So I went and looked at the steps/mm, which is 93, exactly what it is also on the TronXY X1, which uses pretty much the same extruder setup but for a different style, same sized gear.\n\nI cleaned out the nozzle nevertheless, but that didn't change the results.\n\nWhat might be wrong and how can I fix it?!\n\nEdit:\n\n\nTouching the filament while I was printing a freshly sliced test, I realized it DID lose steps, just the filament did slip back (almost) quietly. Pressing a finger on the filament made me able to feel the shiver in it.\nInspecting what was printed showed, that the nozzle had migrated against the print platform a little over the weeks.\n\n\",Trish,\"A close inspection of what happened when printing the first layer resulted in this:\n\n\nThe missing steps on the new print came from the nozzle scraping too close to the print surface, which lead to no first layer\nReadjusting the Z-axis end stop, which had moved down, resulted in no more lost steps, but the print not sticking for the first test.\nReleveling the bed and making sure the bar was parallel to the bed resulted in a perfect first layer.\nLost steps and under-extrusion could not be replicated after 48 hours of rest for the printer.\n\n\nI have no idea why the print had failed due to under-extrusion during the print, but apparently, my immediate tests were flawed enough to not detect the first layer height resulting in getting almost no extrusion. This I mistook for massive under-extrusion, making me believe something else was at fault.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6982,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,3.452496054252184,5.469037454342736,0.0,5.646830619998737,2.746326330407206,2.306096197889172,Which filaments actually do need to be stored in a drybox?,\"As I started to learn about 3D printing, the gist I learned was \"\"it's better to store the filaments in a drybox.\"\" As I rechecked these notes, they were to a good degree from an era when PLA was rather new to the market and ABS was the goTo. \n\nThen I learned \"\"PLA is not really hygroscopic and can be stored freely.\"\"1\n\nNow, I know some materials are pretty hygroscopic, but not all. So, let's try to pin it down:\n\nWhich materials are hygroscopic enough to demand a drybox?\n\nI know that it is good practice to store all filament in a somewhat dehumidified or airtight box, but there are some materials out there that become unprintable and need drying before printing if improperly stored. This question is to point out these \"\"special storage mandatory\"\" filaments only. If a material can't be printed without dry storage it belongs here. If it is a nice to have, it doesn't.\n\nThis is a Back It Up question: answers need to provide one of two:\n\n\nexplain personal experience, marked as such.\nprovide an authoritative source (scientific paper/videos, manufacturer papers, quote from an experienced maker).\n\n\n\n\n1 - For some time (month?). I do store my PLA in a closed but unsealed IKEA container with all the desiccant bags I can find as it is clearly benefitial.\n\",cmm,\"All filaments should be kept in a low-humidity, dry environment. The OP suggests that PLA doesn't need to be dried. My experience says otherwise. I had miserable trouble printing with a PLA spool until I dried it in an oven at about 60 C for a couple of hours. It then printed well.\n\nA comment was made, and then refuted, about FDM being the same as injection molding. I agree that, for this purpose, it is. Both involve heating the plastic so that it softens, and neither process will work well if the filament is outgassing steam. They both have a confined melt chamber, and steam will be pressurized with the plastic. When the pressure is released, the expanding steam creates defects in the object.\n\nIt is true that some filaments are more hygroscopic than others, but all filaments should be treated as if they are moisture sensitive and should be stored in a dry container.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6982,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,3.452496054252184,5.469037454342736,0.0,5.646830619998737,2.746326330407206,2.306096197889172,Which filaments actually do need to be stored in a drybox?,\"As I started to learn about 3D printing, the gist I learned was \"\"it's better to store the filaments in a drybox.\"\" As I rechecked these notes, they were to a good degree from an era when PLA was rather new to the market and ABS was the goTo. \n\nThen I learned \"\"PLA is not really hygroscopic and can be stored freely.\"\"1\n\nNow, I know some materials are pretty hygroscopic, but not all. So, let's try to pin it down:\n\nWhich materials are hygroscopic enough to demand a drybox?\n\nI know that it is good practice to store all filament in a somewhat dehumidified or airtight box, but there are some materials out there that become unprintable and need drying before printing if improperly stored. This question is to point out these \"\"special storage mandatory\"\" filaments only. If a material can't be printed without dry storage it belongs here. If it is a nice to have, it doesn't.\n\nThis is a Back It Up question: answers need to provide one of two:\n\n\nexplain personal experience, marked as such.\nprovide an authoritative source (scientific paper/videos, manufacturer papers, quote from an experienced maker).\n\n\n\n\n1 - For some time (month?). I do store my PLA in a closed but unsealed IKEA container with all the desiccant bags I can find as it is clearly benefitial.\n\",Horitsu,\"Necessary: \n\n\nPVA otherwise it will become unprintable, because it is VERY hydrophilic and becomes soft, but it is dryable \n\n\nBetter to store boxed:\n\n\nPLA otherwise it can became brittle, I have some of such PLA, it brakes from time to time if it is just loaded, but luckily it doesn't broke while printing so far. \nNylon is also hydrophilic \n\n\nGenerally you should google for the material you want to use and look for hydrophilic properties or other, e.g. gas releasing, properties and so on. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7038,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,2.8153892694839717,3.5909472313636615,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,How to avoid collisions with already printed objects?,\"When printing several objects, I recently encountered a problem that arises when the structure in itself is relatively thin or the support towers have a small surface: the printhead would in motion tend to knock one or more over as it traveled or catch at them and create layer shift.\n\nHow can I avoid collisions with the already printed parts of a layer?\n\",Trish,\"The problem was twofold:\n\n\nLack of bed adhesion due to the small contact surface\nmotion into the already printed objects.\n\n\nThe quick and dirty way was to change two settings:\n\n\nPrint with a small (3 mm) brim to stick the supports to the print and provide more surface. Other materials than PLA may need considerably more brim!\nActivate Z-Hop to force the nozzle to lift over the print when traveling\n\n\nThese tricks don't solve issues with very thin structures or in all cases. In those cases, it can be mandatory to increase the structure's (support) thickness or change the alignment.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n7038,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,2.8153892694839717,3.5909472313636615,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,How to avoid collisions with already printed objects?,\"When printing several objects, I recently encountered a problem that arises when the structure in itself is relatively thin or the support towers have a small surface: the printhead would in motion tend to knock one or more over as it traveled or catch at them and create layer shift.\n\nHow can I avoid collisions with the already printed parts of a layer?\n\",she hates me,\"For the Creality Ender 3, I had the same collision problem and after a while I found it was because of the X-axis not being level.\n\nI found right hand side was more than 3-4 mm below the left side when the Z-axis height exceeds around 8-10 cm. Below that, the two sides were even. I made some calibration by turning the eccentric nuts of the wheels and tighten them.\n\nIf you use Creality Ender 3, that might be the problem. Take a ruler and check between base extrusions and X-axis left/right hand sides at different Z heights.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7905,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,1.0891412423578797,2.9547933789762357,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Designing lenses,\"Recently, I did discover that it might be possible to print fully solid, air free and thus optical homogenous, even with PLA.\n\nHow can I design a proper focusing lens (or rather: single sided lens with a flat bottom) with this, ignoring the post-processing needed to get the surface smooth?\n\",Trish,\"To calculate the focal length of an optical element, the two main factors are the refraction index and the shape of the lens.\n\nFor a cylindrical lens with one optic active side (that is, one domed or bowled side), we can ignore the whole bottom cylinder and just take into account the top dome. The shape of the dome is determined by the radius of the circle that created it. \n\nThin, single sided lenses\n\nFor a thin, single-sided lens the rather complicated Gullstrand’s formula to calculate the focal length of lenses becomes rather simple:\n\n$f = \\frac {r}{(n-1)}$ for the bend facing the object\n\n$f = \\frac {r}{(1-n)}= \\frac {-r}{(n-1)}$ for mounting it in reverse. \n\nA Polymer database did give a refraction index of PLA as $n=1.465$. \n\nThick, single sided lenses\n\nFor a thick lens with a total thickness of $d$ and one active side, we solve first for the one active side, and then insert:\n$$f_1=\\frac{r}{n} \\land \\frac {-r}{(1-n)} ; f_2=\\infty ; P_i = \\frac 1 {f_i}$$\n$$P=P_1+P_2 -P_1P_2\\frac d n ; P_2\\to0$$\n$$f=\\frac{1}{P_1}=f_1$$\nAs long as one side of our lense stays flat, the thickness of the lense is mathematically not relevant (save for increasing dispersion).\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n7960,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,2.8153892694839717,3.4776007666316793,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,How to clean up my buildpate for a new build surface?,\"My ender3 came with a BuildTak-clone surface, and as I was a little too vigorous in getting the print off the bed (I had failed to level right and printed a bit too tight to the bed, resulting in SUPER strong adhesion), I needed to replace it.\n\nPeeling off the black was easy. The plastic sheet that held the glue was easy too... but how to clean up the bed to get the residue glue off and prepare for the new 3M sticker?\n\",0scar,\"In my experience, we deal with 3M™ Adhesive Transfer Tape 468MP; high-temperature glue residue. To remove the leftover glue from my Aluminium build plate I found that it works best if I apply paint thinner. \n\nI ran out of acetone for one refurbishment so I tried thinner and white (cleaning) spirit; the latter option did not work well. However, thinner worked very well. I got a bottle of \"\"thinner\"\" at the hardware store's house brand and found it to be more aggressive stuff than turpentine or acetone. I had tried those latter 2 but found that \"\"thinner\"\" works best.\n\nPutting the thinner fluid on paper cloth directly to clean the glue did not work well. I applied the thinner directly onto the glue (splash it on), waited for a while to let it soak in to weaken the bonds after which you can remove it with a spatula and kitchen paper towel.\n\nThe exact contents of paint thinners are not always available but they contain various hydrocarbons.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n7960,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,2.8153892694839717,3.4776007666316793,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,How to clean up my buildpate for a new build surface?,\"My ender3 came with a BuildTak-clone surface, and as I was a little too vigorous in getting the print off the bed (I had failed to level right and printed a bit too tight to the bed, resulting in SUPER strong adhesion), I needed to replace it.\n\nPeeling off the black was easy. The plastic sheet that held the glue was easy too... but how to clean up the bed to get the residue glue off and prepare for the new 3M sticker?\n\",Morku10,\"When I have to prepare hot bed for a new printing I use to clean with alcohol and then when the bed is hot and ready to print I Apply a thin layer of lacquer. Doing it and with a easy calibration before start to print everything should work great.\n\nI use to print with PLA and TPU Filament with no problems \n\",0.0,0.0\n8466,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,3.9045305118418514,5.850403000130595,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,4.503257053771732,4.208576161768494,What is Thermal Runaway Protection?,\"What is Thermal Runaway Protection (TRP) and why should I enable it?\n\nHow does one do so in Marlin?\n\",0scar,\"What is TRP and how does it work?\n\nThermal runaway protection is basically self-explaining; it is protection against the temperature getting out of control. Essentially, the firmware checks whether the measured output of the thermistor (What is a thermistor? A thermistor is basically a temperature sensor; it is an electrical component (more specific: a resistor) that has a large reduction of its resistance when heated; it is frequently used for measurement and control as you can link the resistance to the temperature via a table or a curve) is within an expected range for a certain target value within a certain timeframe when heating the hotend or the heated bed.\n\nE.g. When you request the hotend or heated bed to a certain temperature, the heater elements are being scheduled/switched on to increase the temperature. If the temperature increase as a result of scheduling the hotend or heated bed are not met in time (settings in the firmware configuration), the printer will halt and heating of the heater elements will stop. The printer needs to be reset after such a failure.\n\nWhat triggers TRP?\n\nCommon problems that trigger the thermal runaway protection are:\n\n\na faulty thermistor,\nan incorrectly placed thermistor (e.g. not making good enough contact with the heater block),\n\n\nincluding falling out\n\na loose heater cartridge,\n\n\nincluding falling out\n\nfaulty connectors,\nfaulty or partially broken wires,\nbasically, anything that interrupts either heating or the measurement of the signal.\n\n\nWhy should TRP be active?\n\nThermal runaway protection is mainly meant to prevent fire hazards by stopping the heater cartridge when it might have fallen out of the heater block and is trying to set the whole surroundings on fire. \n\nTo illustrate the point: This happens if Thermal Runaway Protection is disabled, and the associated story. Luckily this one did not result in a loss of life and home, but it could have - and the owner was able to do some forensic examination on what caused the fire.\n\n\n\nHow to activate TRP in Marlin firmware?\n\nPlease make sure that you have the configuration lines in the Thermal Runaway Protection section (466-485) of your Configuration.h file uncommented (no // in front of the lines starting with #define THERMAL_...).\n\n\n//===========================================================================\n//======================== Thermal Runaway Protection =======================\n//===========================================================================\n\n/**\n * Thermal Protection provides additional protection to your printer from damage\n * and fire. Marlin always includes safe min and max temperature ranges which\n * protect against a broken or disconnected thermistor wire.\n *\n * The issue: If a thermistor falls out, it will report the much lower\n * temperature of the air in the room, and the the firmware will keep\n * the heater on.\n *\n * If you get \"\"Thermal Runaway\"\" or \"\"Heating failed\"\" errors the\n * details can be tuned in Configuration_adv.h\n */\n\n#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_HOTENDS // Enable thermal protection for all extruders\n#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_BED // Enable thermal protection for the heated bed\n\n\nThis should generally be enough to enable TRP on your printer, fine tuning can be done by changing the time constant and the temperature increase in the file Configuration_adv.h in the section:\n\n\n//===========================================================================\n//=============================Thermal Settings ============================\n//===========================================================================\n\n\nHowever, it is advised to not change these values unless you are absolutely certain; e.g. if your heating cartridge is not powerful enough and you are getting printer halts. When getting false-positive printer halts according to the Marlin firmware you could:\n\n* If you get false positives for \"\"Thermal Runaway\"\", increase\n* THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS and/or THERMAL_PROTECTION_PERIOD \n\nHow to test if TRP is active on my printer?\n\nTo test if thermal runaway protection is enabled on your printer, you can disconnect the heater element of the hotend or the heated bed while printing a print or sending temperature commands to the printer over USB using a terminal to send commands directly to the printer. You can disconnect the heater element while the printer is cold (before start) and also when the heater element is heating up. No heating of the nozzle will take place, so after the period defined by the time constant set in the firmware, the printer will halt if thermal runaway protection is enabled. Power down the machine and reconnect the wires, it is not advised to put them back in on a running machine, as one might touch the open wires; when the printer halted, you should power down or reset the printer anyways. If the printer did not halt, power it down as quickly as possible - TRP is disabled.\n\nFurther Considerations\n\nBesides activating thermal runaway protection, it is always a good idea to install a smoke detector and a fire extinguisher in the surroundings of the 3D printer: the smoke detector over it, the extinguisher within arms reach of the door leading to the room.\n\",3.859531739127555,2.0769199823829045\n8466,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,3.9045305118418514,5.850403000130595,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,4.503257053771732,4.208576161768494,What is Thermal Runaway Protection?,\"What is Thermal Runaway Protection (TRP) and why should I enable it?\n\nHow does one do so in Marlin?\n\",user77232,\"What is Thermal Runaway?\n\nLet's look at a Thermal Runaway Test (#2) performed by one Chris Bate.\n\nIn this video the experimenter drove the heating element non-stop until disaster. The Nichrome wire in the heating element melts at about 1,400 °C. Only once it melts, will the circuit will break and the current stop. The aluminum heating block however, melts at 660.3 °C; long before the nichrome melts.\n\nThermal Runaway Protection\n\nThermal runaway protection is a piece of code in the firmware of the printer that checks to make sure that once power is being applied to the heater, the thermistor's resistance is changing within a specified frame (time and amount). This is the basic form of a control loop. \n\nIf the control system is implemented mechanically then it is called a thermostat, usually via a bimetal strip.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n9912,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,2.528907649931287,4.322091345256427,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,What is the functional difference between an e3D-Style nozzle and M6 Chinesium Nozzles?,\"There is pretty much an ecosystem of two Nozzle designs out there that share the M6 thread on the coupler to the Heating block: \n\n\nthe e3D \"\"snub nose\"\" or \"\"shouldered\"\" design.\nthe \"\"Chinesium\"\" nozzle that is often claimed to be some \"\"MK8\"\" or \"\"MK10\"\" without naming what item of which manufacturer is actually iterated there.\n\n\nThey seem to be derived from the Makerbot MK8 Hotend which uses M6 threading and not the MK10, as that uses M7 threading.\n\n\n\nWhat differentiates the two and can one swap one for the other?\n\",Trish,\"Differentiation\n\nThe main differences between the e3D-Nozzle family and the \"\"simple\"\" Nozzle are the wrench size, body length and thread length of the nozzle. In fact, I have come across 2 different \"\"Chinese\"\" styles of nozzle, a \"\"big\"\" and a \"\"small\"\" one. \n\nComparison\n\nFor comparison, take a look at this photo, where I aligned the lower ends of the bodies to line up under the wrench needed to handle them.\n\n\n\nIn words, left to right:\n\n\nChinese Big M6 Nozzle\n\n\nsize 8 metric wrench, 4 mm thread length, 1 mm clearance, extends a minimum of 8 mm from the heater block\n\nChinese Small M6 Nozzle\n\n\nsize 7 metric wrench, 4 mm thread length, 1 mm clearance, extends a minimum of 8 mm from the heater block\n\ne3D v6 normal (aka NOT volcano etc)\n\n\nsize 7 metric wrench, 6 mm thread length, 2 mm clearance, extends a minimum of 5 mm from the heater block\n\n\n\nReplaceability\n\nChinese big to Chinese small nozzles in either hotend\n\nDue to the dimensions, one can easily swap the big and small Chinese nozzles for one another. They are virtually interchangeable but differ in the wear patterns.\n\nChinese nozzles in e3D Hotend\n\nThe 3 mm shorter snout and deeper butting with the heatbreak of the e3D nozzle in its designed hotend make it hard to swap a Chinese nozzle into an e3D setup: neither does the thread allow to screw the nozzle in the right length sometimes, it also extends much further. To accommodate, the whole heater block has to be screwed about 3 mm more onto the heatbreak, then the nozzle gets screwed in. The result is equal in overall length.\n\ne3D Nozzle in Chinese Hotend\n\nHowever, the long thread of the e3D Nozzle allows it to be mounted in a hotend designed to hold a Chinese nozzle without trouble - the 3 mm of difference in the body are used for a longer thread and clearance between thread and body, resulting in the same overall length without changing the mounting position of the heater block on the heatbreak.\n\nInternals\n\nStefan of CNC-Kitchen recently tortured a couple of nozzles for science and investigating wear and tear (video). He found out a couple of differences on the internals:\n\n\nThe Chinese nozzle had a non-straight pattern on the inside\nThe angle in the feeding cone is 60° in an e3D and 90° in the Chinese sample\n\n\nConclusion\n\nThe Chinese Style nozzles can be interchanged for one another. an e3D style nozzle with standard length (aka not-volcano) can be swapped in for any Chinese Style nozzle. A Chinese Style nozzle needs to have the heater block shifted if mounted into an e3D hotend.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n10472,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,2.1782824847157594,3.2043470614382206,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,What are the tradeoffs of a cantilever printer design?,\"There are several cantilever-style printers around like some DIYs (2018), the TronXY-X1, the Monoprice Select Mini, Tiertime's Cetus line and the 2019 Prusa Minilinks for information, no affiliation.\n\nWhile the specs of the printers are very different, what are the main benefits, tradeoffs and drawbacks that are inherent in the design compared to a more traditional Core-XY or Prusa/Portal design?\n\",Trish,\"Cantilever printers constrain the X-axis carriage only on one side and have a free hanging side. This means, that the X-beam has to be rather sturdy and is limited in length, making them usually quite small machines. \n\nAnother tradeoff stemming from this source is, that they have to stiffen this one connection as much as possible. Any play on the connection leads to increasingly large errors the further the printhead is out from the Z-Axis and can lead to bad prints, banding and total failures of prints. This behavior, at least on the TronXY-X1, is sometimes called Z-Wobble and has brought up some aftermarket modifications. For example, this bracket constrains the movement of the X-cantilever.\n\nWhile all axis would be affected by bad constraints, a cantilever suffers the most: The cantilever (if not well constrained) can deflect in both XY and XZ plane, pretty much opening a cone with the tip at the leadscrew nut. A one side-leadscrew portal design can only deflect in the XZ plane, opening an angle along with the center in the leadscrew nut. A double leadscrew design has, constrains both ends of the X-axis and prevents deflection but could suffer from bending the portal bar.\n\nThe main benefit of a cantilever design is that being of a rather simple design with few moving parts, understanding as well as repairing and modifying the motion control system is fairly easy. The ease of access and low component number also allows reducing manufacturing costs to some degree.\n\nAnother thing of note is, that these printers usually have a fairly small form factor, allowing them to be used in small workshops without taking up too much space. However, their build-volume to occupied-volume ratio usually is not as good as other designs - printers with a much larger build volume just get a much better ratio there.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10472,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,2.1782824847157594,3.2043470614382206,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,What are the tradeoffs of a cantilever printer design?,\"There are several cantilever-style printers around like some DIYs (2018), the TronXY-X1, the Monoprice Select Mini, Tiertime's Cetus line and the 2019 Prusa Minilinks for information, no affiliation.\n\nWhile the specs of the printers are very different, what are the main benefits, tradeoffs and drawbacks that are inherent in the design compared to a more traditional Core-XY or Prusa/Portal design?\n\",user77232,\"The point of the cantilever design is for reduced cost. There are no other benefits beyond that.\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10571,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,1.0891412423578797,4.800783801792426,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How to activate Power Loss Recovery in Marlin?,\"Standard Marlin has one problem: when the power suddenly is gone, the print is gone. Prusa and many china printers however come with \"\"Power Loss Recovery\"\" or \"\"Power Out Protection\"\" or similar. But especially China printers come without Thermal Runaway Protection, so in order to make the printer safe, one often has to get rid of TRP (in the basic shape it comes).\n\nHow can the PLR be turned on?\n\",0scar,\"Marlin firmware has such a feature that can be enabled to resume printing after a power outage.\n\nTo enable power-loss recovery you should send \n\nM413 S1 \n\n\nto the printer using a console (e.g. using Pronterface, OctoPrint, Repetier-host, etc.) or put commands in a text file with extension .g that can be printed from SD card. To disable power-loss recovery send/print:\n\nM413 S0 \n\n\nTo report the state of the power-loss recovery, send through a console:\n\nM413\n\n\nThis will result in a returning message in the console of e.g. This Power-loss recovery ON.\n\nTo retain the setting, you can use M500 to store it in memory.\n\n\n\nIf you enable M413 in Marlin firmware, the printer will write a resume printing file to SD card e.g. every layer.\n\nFrom M413 - Power-loss Recovery documentation I quote:\n\n\n Enable or disable the Power-loss Recovery feature. When this feature is enabled, the state of the current print job (SD card only) will be saved to a file on the SD card. If the machine crashes or a power outage occurs, the firmware will present an option to Resume the interrupted print job. In Marlin 2.0 the POWER_LOSS_RECOVERY option must be enabled.\n \n This feature operates without a power-loss detection circuit by writing to the recovery file periodically (e.g., once per layer), or if a POWER_LOSS_PIN is configured then it will write the recovery info only when a power-loss is detected. The latter option is preferred, since constant writing to the SD card can shorten its life, and the print will be resumed where it was interrupted rather than repeating the last layer. (Future implementations may allow use of the EEPROM or the on-board SD card.)\n\n\nThis means if you cut the power you can resume the print layer, the only problem is that the part must remain attached to the plate, if it comes loose it is hard to resume printing. This feature is now commonly found on printers these days.\n\nThe regular pause and resume functionality of the printer will not work when the power is cut over night, i.e. no recovery file is written in such a case.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n10587,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,3.0576060275493275,3.241349471920412,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,How to pause a print to insert something in a cavity using Ultimaker Cura?,\"I have a model that contains a cavity, into which I want to insert a piece of metal, so I can use a magnet to stick to the print. How can I introduce a pause into the G-code without manipulating it manually in Ultimaker Cura?\n\",Trish,\"Ultimaker Cura contains \"\"Extensions\"\"; in version 4.1.0, the process is as follows:\n\n\nExtensions -> Post Processing -> Modify G-code\nAdd a Script -> Pause at height\n\n\nChoose the one that matches your firmware!\n\nChoose the Pause height to match the height the insertion should take place. Usually, this is to be the layer just before the roof is to be printed to keep the inserted objects from protruding from their cavities.\nChoose a park position well outside of the print. X 10 Y 10 is usually a good position for this.\nAdd a little retraction if you want.\n\n\nIn printing, you have to wait till the cavity is formed, insert the item quickly and press the control button to resume. The shorter the pause, the better the next layer will hold to the already printed.\n\nAlso, keep in mind to make the cavity a little larger than the insert, both in XY and Z, to compensate for the plastic shrinking a little and to allow the nozzle to pass well over the inserted item.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n10587,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,3.0576060275493275,3.241349471920412,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,How to pause a print to insert something in a cavity using Ultimaker Cura?,\"I have a model that contains a cavity, into which I want to insert a piece of metal, so I can use a magnet to stick to the print. How can I introduce a pause into the G-code without manipulating it manually in Ultimaker Cura?\n\",0scar,\"This answer already explains how you insert the G-codes to enable a pause into your model. But, this will only work if the printer supports the G-codes that are inserted by Cura. E.g. this question shows that this does not always work!\n\nTo pause the printer you would need to resort into other methods, e.g. a manually inserted G4 (Dwell) would be a viable solution as shown in this answer.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10986,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,2.528907649931287,3.767727146819673,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.082726318457765,How to calculate the proper layer height multiples?,\"We all know, that the best layer hight is, when you have multiples of full steps. If it is not, sometimes steps get skipped and end up bad layer-to-layer adhesion when one height step missed a tiny bit and then the next catches up, creating an extra-thick layer. For example, this was printed somewhat deliberately, and here, the extra spaced layers are perfect for delaminating the print with just a fingernail:\n\n\n\nThe Ender 3 I have uses the following Z-Rod:\n\n\nDiameter 8 mm\n4 flutes\nca 13 Threads per inch\n\n\nThat is according to the table, a 2 mm pitch for one thread.\nAs a result, it's an 8 mm pitch for each of the 4 threads.\n\n\n\nThe firmware (Marlin) I use claims in configuration.h that the NEMA17 motor would be using 400 Steps per mm in Z. configuration_adv.h tells that the microsteps on the Z-axis motor are 16.\n\nIn the printer's menu, Babystepping is in increments of 0.049 mm (though some rounding error seems to be there: 5 Babysteps are 0.250 mm).\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"\n that the NEMA17 motor would be using 400 Steps per mm in Z. configuration_adv.h tells that the microsteps on the Z-axis motor are 16.\n\n\nEasy. There are 400 microsteps in a millimeter, and 16 microsteps in a full step. So, there are 400/16=25 full steps in a millimeter. So a full step is 1/25th of a millimeter, or 0.04 mm. Your layer height should be a multiple of this.\n\nAs your leadscrew has a lead of 8 mm (i.e., a full rotation will move the Z-axis by 8 mm), a full step is either 8/200=0.04 mm (for a 1.8 degree stepper) or 8/400=0.02 mm (for a 0.9 degree stepper). So, apparently, you have a 1.8 degree stepper (and this is the most common type of stepper).\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n10986,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,2.528907649931287,3.767727146819673,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.082726318457765,How to calculate the proper layer height multiples?,\"We all know, that the best layer hight is, when you have multiples of full steps. If it is not, sometimes steps get skipped and end up bad layer-to-layer adhesion when one height step missed a tiny bit and then the next catches up, creating an extra-thick layer. For example, this was printed somewhat deliberately, and here, the extra spaced layers are perfect for delaminating the print with just a fingernail:\n\n\n\nThe Ender 3 I have uses the following Z-Rod:\n\n\nDiameter 8 mm\n4 flutes\nca 13 Threads per inch\n\n\nThat is according to the table, a 2 mm pitch for one thread.\nAs a result, it's an 8 mm pitch for each of the 4 threads.\n\n\n\nThe firmware (Marlin) I use claims in configuration.h that the NEMA17 motor would be using 400 Steps per mm in Z. configuration_adv.h tells that the microsteps on the Z-axis motor are 16.\n\nIn the printer's menu, Babystepping is in increments of 0.049 mm (though some rounding error seems to be there: 5 Babysteps are 0.250 mm).\n\",R..,\"I see you've already accepted an answer, but based on your comments I think you have some misunderstandings of the topic which are worth clarifying as part of answering this question.\n\n\n 0.2125 layer height (+1/4 microstep) and doing all the movements in absolute movements instead of relative forced the result, as the target heights were as a result at 0.2125 mm (for the stepper that's effectively a 0.2 mm), 0.425 (0.4), 0.675 (for the stepper that's, depending on rounding or truncting, 0.6 or 0.7), 0.9 (here they are both 0.9) and so on.\n\n\nIt sounds like your understanding is that the stepper driver is \"\"rounding\"\"/\"\"truncating\"\" to Z positions that are multiples of 0.1 mm. Perhaps that's based on the LCD status display of the Ender 3's firmware, which is based on Marlin 1.0 or something around that version, and shows current coordinates rounded or truncated (I forget which) to one decimal place. This does not have anything to do with the positioning limitations of the actual machine; it's just bad user interface design.\n\nThe actual firmware position is translated from the floating point value in the gcode to the nearest step/microstep that the stepper driver can represent. With full steps being 0.04 mm, microsteps are 0.0025 mm (1/16 of a step). All of these positions are \"\"exact\"\" in a logical sense, but of course subject to physical limits of the mechanical parts and accuracy of microstepping. On the topic of microstepping accuracy, you should read How Accurate Is Microstepping Really? Most if not all models of the Ender 3 have A4988 stepper drivers, one of the chips reviewed in that article. But the important part is that there's no rounding/truncation to whole steps taking place. Rather, the stepper driver is trying to position the motor in between whole steps by balancing the magnetic fields pulling it in each direction, with the goal of producing a linear interpolation between the two adjacent full steps. How well it does this is a matter of the quality of the stepper drivers and the load on the motor.\n\nBack to your test, your layer height of 0.2125 mm is not one step plus 1/4 microstep. It's 5 steps (5 * 0.04 mm) plus 0.0125 mm which is 5 microsteps. This is probably a decent test - 5 is 1 mod 16, so you'll end up with a period-16 cycle of microstep positions, at 5, 10, 15, 4, 9, 14, 3, 8, 13, 2, 7, 12, 1, 6, and 11 microsteps mod the whole step. This is pretty close to a period of 3, so you might expect to see some irregularity from poor microstepping accuracy that looks periodic every 3 layers, or you might see it repeating only every 16 layers (every 3.4 mm). But regardless I would not expect delamination problems from this. I think there's another serious extrusion problem behind the photo in your question, and you should probably open a new question about what it might be.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11056,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,2.1782824847157594,3.171906017490645,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.880918201452841,Writing G-code: Audible Alert at end of print,\"Often, the pre-generated G-code is enough for start and end. However, sometimes we want to have something different. In this case: how to generate an audible alert of something like 4 bleeps at the end of the print, after putting the printer into the end position and when the bed has reached a \"\"safe\"\" 30 °C?\n\",Trish,\"Let's put the parts one by one:\n\n\nWait for bed temperature being at 30 °C: M190 R30\nPlay Bleep for 1/5th of a second: M300 440 200\nWait for 1/5th of a second: G4 P200\n\n\nThat gives:\n\nM190 R30\nM140 S0\nM300 440 200\nG4 P200\nM300 440 200\nG4 P200\nM300 440 200\nG4 P200\nM300 440 200\nG4 P200\n\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n11056,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,2.1782824847157594,3.171906017490645,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.880918201452841,Writing G-code: Audible Alert at end of print,\"Often, the pre-generated G-code is enough for start and end. However, sometimes we want to have something different. In this case: how to generate an audible alert of something like 4 bleeps at the end of the print, after putting the printer into the end position and when the bed has reached a \"\"safe\"\" 30 °C?\n\",Desko,\"Trish's version is good but wait for bed temperature being at 30 °C (M190 R30) before setting the temperature to 0 °C (M140 S0) \n\nSo this is my version:\n\nM104 S0 ;extruder heater off\nM140 S0 ;heated bed heater off \nG91 ;relative positioning\nG1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure\nG1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F9000 ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more\nG28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way\nG1 Y150 F5000 ;move completed part out\nM84 ;steppers off\nG90 ;absolute positioning\nM190 R30 ;waits until cooling to 30 °C\nM300 S300 P1000 ;beep\nM300 S300 P1000 ;beep\nM300 S300 P1000 ;beep\nM300 S300 P1000 ;beep\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11309,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trish,2.8153892694839717,2.704143814960767,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Removeable Glass Bed vs. Removeable Springsteel Beds,\"Removeable beds are starting to get more common in low-price consumer-grade printers. There are pretty much 3 types: \n\n\nUnheated beds\nHeated beds from steel held by magnets or clips\nHeated glass beds held by clips\n\n\nUnheated beds are the lowest class, and not an issue here. What are the pros and cons for a steel/springsteel bed versus a glass bed?\n\",CrossRoads,\"Flex steel with PEX top sheet, held down with magnet on heated aluminum bed, works great. Adhesion is very good. Once printing stops, pull off the flex steel, let it cool 30 seconds or so, and flex it in both directions and the part pops right off. I use it for printing PLA, and it is great. (WhamBam system, I have posted videos of it in this area also.)\n\nHave not tried glass, seems like too much fooling around needed with tape, hairspray, glue sticks, etc. needed. It shouldn't be that difficult to get a print to adhere for a hobbyist. We did blue tape on AL for a while, until we literally chiseled a box off the tape/plate, and said that was enough of that nonsense.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4854,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pritt Balagopal,2.528907649931287,3.781497790162722,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,Is it possible to 3D print shapes of atomic orbitals for a regular customer?,\"Disclaimer: I am not a professional 3D printer, so I'm not really familiar with how 3D printing works.\n\nI was thinking about trying to make a real life model of the atomic orbitals, to clearly see how the orbitals are really shaped. I thought about trying to 3D print a block, made up of colored transparent \"\"ink\"\", in such a way that the darkness of the color at a point in the block should be proportional to the ψ2 value (probability of the electron cloud). This would print a block in which high density areas are darker than light intensity areas.\n\nMy question is, would it be possible to design an algorithm to print a specific darkness of ink at a specific location based on the computed value of ψ2, which is obtained by solving Schrödinger's Equation. Also, would it be possible to have this fullfilled at a reasonable price to be afforded by a regular customer, such as an engineering employee?\n\",darth pixel,\"problem definition\n\nI'm not quite sure if it's really question for this group. Looks like the problem itself is more for programming or physics group. Having requested calculations (electron cloud shape) resolved, there will be something to print but...\n\nprinting probability cloud\n\nat first, please take a look for example here\n\nit's a review of 3d printing technologies. i think you should have clear picture if your idea is feasible or not.\n\nIMO it's not with todays technologies. in general (and deadly simlified) we have 3 main printing technics\n\n\nout of solid (or semi-solid) filaments - can be colorful and semi-transparent but it's not homogenous in terms of your needs\nout of solid powders - can be colorful but it cannot be transparent\nout of liquids - can be really transparent and color but unfortunately not colorful\n\n\ni'd say rendering but not printing is what you really need\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4854,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pritt Balagopal,2.528907649931287,3.781497790162722,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,Is it possible to 3D print shapes of atomic orbitals for a regular customer?,\"Disclaimer: I am not a professional 3D printer, so I'm not really familiar with how 3D printing works.\n\nI was thinking about trying to make a real life model of the atomic orbitals, to clearly see how the orbitals are really shaped. I thought about trying to 3D print a block, made up of colored transparent \"\"ink\"\", in such a way that the darkness of the color at a point in the block should be proportional to the ψ2 value (probability of the electron cloud). This would print a block in which high density areas are darker than light intensity areas.\n\nMy question is, would it be possible to design an algorithm to print a specific darkness of ink at a specific location based on the computed value of ψ2, which is obtained by solving Schrödinger's Equation. Also, would it be possible to have this fullfilled at a reasonable price to be afforded by a regular customer, such as an engineering employee?\n\",nraynaud,\"I suggest you look into Polysher: http://www.polymaker.com/shop/polysmoothpolysher/ and e3D cyclops extruder https://e3d-online.com/Cyclops you can make gradients of color.\n\nBut there might even be a smarter way to do alpha transparency than 100% infill with a transparent material:\n\n1) making a lattice of opaque material nodes (where bigger or closer together nodes mean more probability), and using air as the transparent medium\n\n2) dunking the 1) in resin\n\n3) making the afore-mentioned lattice with a partially transparent material and dunking it in a resin of the same refractive index as the transparent material.\n\",0.0,0.0\n4858,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Adam Plocher,1.726248027126092,3.2591265203387754,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,What can I do about a printjob in progress that starts to warp/curl on the edges?,\"I currently have a print job that is about 50% done, been running for 2 hours with 2 hours remaining. One side is curling/warping pretty bad, and I'm afraid there's no possible way this is going to finish without serious problems if I don't intervene.\n\nSo what I'm doing is either brilliant or idiotic, I'm not sure which: I've paused the print job, stuck some elmers glue below the curling part (with toothpicks, careful not to budge anything else), added a couple degrees to the heatbed (for pliability hopefully), put a small book on top of it to smash it on the glue and let it rest for a little bit (I'll report back if this was a horrible idea or not).\n\nSo my main quesiton: Is there any other techniques that you folks can recommend for a scenario like this? McGuyver'y techniques to repair your in-progress print jobs? Has anyone tried this technique I'm attempting and if so how successful was it?\n\nIn case it matters, I have an ANET A8 and generally send my print jobs to Octoprint (Raspi) from Cura with a Octoprint plugin (Windows). Printing with PLA filament. I've done quite a few successful prints recently, but this is the first one that goes from corner-to-corner on the heatbed (this specifically). Printing at 207c with 60c heatbed (bumped up to 64 while glue settles). It's in a cooler room of the house, and doesn't have an enclosure so I'm afraid the cool temp is affecting it.\n\nThanks\n\nEdit, last maybe significant (or maybe not) details: printing on glass with glue stick applied to it - been doing it for weeks and works quite well for the most part. Also, printing on a raft.\n\nEdit, here are a few pics. Both are from the back of the printer looking forward. I have one cam almost exactly level with the glass so I can see the hot-end extrude filament and another one slightly above it. Sorry for the bad lighting. Also included screenshots of my slicer settings for this print. \n\nBtw, I've since resumed printing after glueing it down, so far so good - but as you can see in the first pic it may have some possible structural defects and still has a slight curl:\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\",cmm,\"Three thoughts:\n\n\nbed temperature\nrim width\nbonding agent\n\n\nBed Temperature:\n\nOften the edges of a heated bed are not as hot as the center. Making the heat pass through an insulator (the glass) makes the temperature profile on the corners more relatively cool compared to the center than if you were printing directly on the aluminum bed.\n\nTo offset that, you could:\n\n\nIncrease the overall heated bed temperature.\nWrap some insulation (such as ceramic felt) around the edge, keeping it out of the way of the print.\nAdd insulation to the underside corners of the bed, to reduce heat loss.\n\n\nRim Thickness:\n\nI see that you are using a rim. Since the rim was also pulling up, rather than the print pulling out of the rim, you might benefit from making the rim broader.\n\nBonding Agent:\n\nIt looks as if you are printing on blue tape, but that might be the picture. IME, gluestick and blue tape aren't often used together. If you are using only blue tape, the condition of the tape is critical. Any grease or rubbing of the tape (such as by resting your hand on the bed when making other prints) can reduce the holding power.\n\nIf you haven't tried it yet, you might try printing PLA with the PVA (polyvinyl alcohol) gluestick. I use the \"\"purple until dry\"\" Elmers gluesticks with good results.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4858,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Adam Plocher,1.726248027126092,3.2591265203387754,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,What can I do about a printjob in progress that starts to warp/curl on the edges?,\"I currently have a print job that is about 50% done, been running for 2 hours with 2 hours remaining. One side is curling/warping pretty bad, and I'm afraid there's no possible way this is going to finish without serious problems if I don't intervene.\n\nSo what I'm doing is either brilliant or idiotic, I'm not sure which: I've paused the print job, stuck some elmers glue below the curling part (with toothpicks, careful not to budge anything else), added a couple degrees to the heatbed (for pliability hopefully), put a small book on top of it to smash it on the glue and let it rest for a little bit (I'll report back if this was a horrible idea or not).\n\nSo my main quesiton: Is there any other techniques that you folks can recommend for a scenario like this? McGuyver'y techniques to repair your in-progress print jobs? Has anyone tried this technique I'm attempting and if so how successful was it?\n\nIn case it matters, I have an ANET A8 and generally send my print jobs to Octoprint (Raspi) from Cura with a Octoprint plugin (Windows). Printing with PLA filament. I've done quite a few successful prints recently, but this is the first one that goes from corner-to-corner on the heatbed (this specifically). Printing at 207c with 60c heatbed (bumped up to 64 while glue settles). It's in a cooler room of the house, and doesn't have an enclosure so I'm afraid the cool temp is affecting it.\n\nThanks\n\nEdit, last maybe significant (or maybe not) details: printing on glass with glue stick applied to it - been doing it for weeks and works quite well for the most part. Also, printing on a raft.\n\nEdit, here are a few pics. Both are from the back of the printer looking forward. I have one cam almost exactly level with the glass so I can see the hot-end extrude filament and another one slightly above it. Sorry for the bad lighting. Also included screenshots of my slicer settings for this print. \n\nBtw, I've since resumed printing after glueing it down, so far so good - but as you can see in the first pic it may have some possible structural defects and still has a slight curl:\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\",Mark R,\"More glue to hold it down and lower in-fill percentage will reduce the warping. Or adding more cut-outs to the design like you have further up the shaft. \n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5034,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Adam Plocher,2.8153892694839717,5.352135846751412,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Should I be doing PID auto-tuning with my fan at 100% (Anet A8),\"I'm using an Anet A8 with Marlin 1.1.6.\n\nI've read countless guides on PID auto-tuning and never saw that the fan needed to be on, but when I look at the Marlin source code's ANet A8 configuration (here: example_configurations\\ANet\\A8\\Configuration.h) it states:\n\n ...\n\n // ANET A8 Standard Extruder at 210 Degree Celsius and 100% Fan\n //(measured after M106 S255 with M303 E0 S210 C8)\n #define DEFAULT_Kp 21.0\n #define DEFAULT_Ki 1.25\n #define DEFAULT_Kd 86.0\n\n#endif // PIDTEMP\n\n\nSo, should activate the fan before running the auto-test if I wish to update the PID values in Marlin for my Anet A8?\n\",tjb1,\"You should run the fan at what you expect it to be at the majority of the time it is printing. If you tune at 100% fan and never use a fan then it will be too aggressive, if you tune at 0% fan and use the fan then you will struggle to maintain/reach temperature.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n4868,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CBable,2.1782824847157594,5.532684718317156,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,How to edit G-code created in Cura to begin printing at a specified layer height?,\"I have an issue with implementing a G-code to print a large 3D object using the Creality CR-10 printer. The print went well for over 30 hours but the filament broke off during the print and stopped at a height of around 172 mm of a total height of 256 mm. 1753 layers total , stopped at layer 1170.\n\nI want to restart the print so the extruder begins printing at a height of 172 mm rather that from the start. \n\nI have tried several sites online and had removed the previous 1169 layers and also changed the start position of the extruder to the code below:\n\nG1 X20 Y20 Z385; Center extruder above bed\n\n\nThe problem I have is that when I start the print, the extruder moves to the middle of the plate and begins moving upwards but I need the extruder to stay near the edge of the build plate and move upwards past 172 mm and then begin printing as it would have for layer 1169 and continue the print. At the moment the extruder moves upwards and towards the middle of the plate and will impact with the existing printed material (see picture attached) and this stops it from correctly positioning. \n\n\n\nCan anyone help with the start code for the G-code that I could use ? I just need the x,y,z to home and then for the extruder to stay near the edge of the build plate but move past 172 mm in the z direction before then beginning to print. Any advice would really be appreciated , first question on this platform so apologies if the detail isn't there. If you need anything more please don't hesitate to get in touch. \n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"Well this is a little complicated since nozzle height could collides with the part if the line 1169 has had started to be printed (part of the line), so the overlap will be the main problem, however adding the initial parameters to heat the extruder and getting the X0 and Y0 with G1 X0 y0 Z385 I recommend to increase Z by 3 or 5 mm, so the extruder will travel from a higher position to avoid the crash going for example, from Z390 to Z385.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n4869,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jerey,2.528907649931287,3.2877657568844505,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Ramps 1.4 and extruder,\"I have ToyRep printer (RepRap), with RAMPS 1.4 on the board. And I am powering in from ATX power supply with 12V. And the problem is it doesn't heat to 230(for ABS), max value was 173 degrees by Celsius. Is it bad extruder or not enough power?\n\",Mikhail Z,\"\nMake sure that your heating device (resistor) is for 12v, not 24v (resistance is < 10Ohm)\nCheck if the temperature readings that you get in your system are (at least roughly) the same as actual temperature (thermocouple with multimeter or any other device that can measure ~200C will help)\nCheck if connections are good enough. Low voltage at hotend is an indication of possible problem. ATX power wires are often too thin to transfer enough current. Consider replacing them with at least 2.5mm2 (AWG 14)\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4944,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jerey,1.0891412423578797,2.990353475154485,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Z motors work synchronously ToyRep,\"I have a problem with Z direction. As you know it has two motors. And my problem is that one sometimes goes to the different direction (so basically one is screwing and another one unscrewing). It is like random, sometimes it is ok, sometimes this one goes to the different direction. Could you help me, please? Wiring is like in building tutorial. The tutorial is here http://reprap.org/wiki/ToyREP_Build_Manual . I am using Marlin and Pronterface. Code I took here http://reprap.org/wiki/ToyREP_User_Manual\n\",Jerey,\"The problem was in the wiring of the motor. According to different sources it says to check wiring, everything seemed ok, but I've found one wire was damaged.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4873,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jesse Williams,3.452496054252184,5.039265702410666,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.7272071097011072,Using the end of a spool,\"I've seen several Q&As on recycling and reusing plastic from failed prints, but what have you done with the last few meters of filament? I've been keeping the ends of PLA (or sections I needed to cut) to maybe use for friction welding pieces together, but I only need so much for that. I've considered just shoving the last bit in the tube and using a new roll to push it through (so long as retractions aren't necessary).\n\nThis is especially a concern for more exotic filaments where friction welding isn't useful and the price is higher for that 1m section (something like Copperfill).\n\nNote: I have a Bowden extruder. I imagine this is less of an issue with DD extruders.\n\",tjb1,\"\nWeld the fragment to the beginning of a new spool and use it that\nway. Most are made from metal so they aren't that easy to make\nat home. Here is another answer that lists other methods to\nweld filament including using heat shrink tubing.\nAs you mentioned, you can use it for friction welding.\nUse it for pin/studs/rivets/hinges in prints.\nThrow it away. 1.75mm * 1Kg is about 330m of filament, 3mm * 1Kg is\nabout 110m of filament. The leftover isn't worth much when you\nconsider how much is on a spool.\n\n\",3.0411126502294303,0.0\n4873,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jesse Williams,3.452496054252184,5.039265702410666,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.7272071097011072,Using the end of a spool,\"I've seen several Q&As on recycling and reusing plastic from failed prints, but what have you done with the last few meters of filament? I've been keeping the ends of PLA (or sections I needed to cut) to maybe use for friction welding pieces together, but I only need so much for that. I've considered just shoving the last bit in the tube and using a new roll to push it through (so long as retractions aren't necessary).\n\nThis is especially a concern for more exotic filaments where friction welding isn't useful and the price is higher for that 1m section (something like Copperfill).\n\nNote: I have a Bowden extruder. I imagine this is less of an issue with DD extruders.\n\",R3D34THR4Y,\"The welding option is only appropriate if you have the tool needed for it, the lighter welding is really hard to do and if your printer allows it you could just watch for the moment the spool runs out and push the new filament as the last of the previous one gets extruded, that's what I used to do on my bowden extruder reprap and apart from a really negligible retraction problem on one layer it just works\n\nOr you could go the cool way:\n\n\nUse the last of the filament for friction/iron welding to fix or glue 3D printed parts together\nUse it as regular filament with a 3D printer pen to fix 3D printed parts\n\"\"Use it for pin/studs/rivets/hinges in prints.\"\" as tjb1 said\nStock it with your failed/ waste 3D printed parts and use them in a recyclebot later to make new filament or simply melt it in an oven to make plastic boards/injection molding material\nThrow it away but that would be a waste over time\n\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n4875,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Emmanuel Caster,2.1782824847157594,4.843683141324226,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Is it possible to convert a Las /Laz file into an STL or OBJ file?,\"I would like to know if there is any tool/library (preferably python based) that could be used in parsing a Laz file to extract info that is normally found in 3d object files such as vertices. Which could be used to create printable 3d mesh.\nI already tried Laspy and I could get the x,y,z data from it but it is not a vertices info but rather a scale info. So I would either need a tool to give that or an algorithm for getting vertices from the data from laspy.\n\",Samveen,\"Given that LAS/LAZ is LiDAR point cloud data, there is a GIS tool called las2tin to convert these files to a triangle based mesh called Triangular irregular networks or TIN by the GIS community. Other GIS tools should be able to do the same, for example ArcGIS.\n\nOnce you have the mesh, Google should be able to help you find a way to convert the TIN to an STL. You will need to scale down the STL after creation, as the TIN will probably be at 100% scale.\n\nOne example workflow for converting LAS data into an STL is:\n\n\nUsing ArcScene: open DEM > convert to TIN > export to VRML\nUsing MeshLab: open VRML > export to STL\nUsing Meshmixer: extrude base > scale to fit standard printing parameters > save as finished STL\n\n\nMore details for the process that I got from Google are available here\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4876,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,I.Omar,2.528907649931287,4.2968812063944695,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,3d print lean in Y-axis,\"I have made a custom 3d printer with ramps electronics. I have printed benchy(ship) well, but when i try to print any thing with tooth(spiral vase), gears(bearing), or circle(rocket), Y-axis skip steps in a regular rate giving 70:60 degrees skew along the printin the y-direction, but each layer is perfect, this happen when printing gear bearing.\n\n\nI have checked y-axis ball bearing, motor, tension belt and i have replace my 6mm glass with 1mm without any differnece in shift.\nI have once make it work, but I don't why or how(I have lowed speed to 50 and did some random things).\nI have printed from pronterface and when I pause it then home-Y, the skipping in y in corrected.\nI drive my x/y axis with no microsteeping and the skipping was much larger.\nI only use slic3r for G-code generation.\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nquestion:\n\n\nWhat is the cause for that skipping?\nIf there is more than one possiblity, how could I check them seperately?\n\n\nUpdate:\n\n*I have changed my Y axis motor with no change.\n\n*I have swaped x&y connections with no change still Y skips.\n\n*I have lowered jerk and max speed and it prints gear bearing well and it is spinning, but when I tried to print spiral vase Y motor skipped.\n\",Keith Bybee,\"I would assume it is either the stepper driver or the stepper motor. Try switching the motor wires for x and y axis and see if the problem stays with the motor or the driver. If its not physically getting hung up then this is likely. I had the same problem with my y axis and after switching the motor it was gone. It would only skip steps in one direction and that seems to be exactly whats going on. Most likely it was caused by bad windings on 1 of the 2 coils inside the stepper motor.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4876,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,I.Omar,2.528907649931287,4.2968812063944695,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,3d print lean in Y-axis,\"I have made a custom 3d printer with ramps electronics. I have printed benchy(ship) well, but when i try to print any thing with tooth(spiral vase), gears(bearing), or circle(rocket), Y-axis skip steps in a regular rate giving 70:60 degrees skew along the printin the y-direction, but each layer is perfect, this happen when printing gear bearing.\n\n\nI have checked y-axis ball bearing, motor, tension belt and i have replace my 6mm glass with 1mm without any differnece in shift.\nI have once make it work, but I don't why or how(I have lowed speed to 50 and did some random things).\nI have printed from pronterface and when I pause it then home-Y, the skipping in y in corrected.\nI drive my x/y axis with no microsteeping and the skipping was much larger.\nI only use slic3r for G-code generation.\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nquestion:\n\n\nWhat is the cause for that skipping?\nIf there is more than one possiblity, how could I check them seperately?\n\n\nUpdate:\n\n*I have changed my Y axis motor with no change.\n\n*I have swaped x&y connections with no change still Y skips.\n\n*I have lowered jerk and max speed and it prints gear bearing well and it is spinning, but when I tried to print spiral vase Y motor skipped.\n\",Valmond,\"Maybe your motor skips?\n\nI had my Z motor skip sometimes, this was the reason:\n\n1) Acceleration was too high\n\n2) I needed to tune the \"\"amperage\"\" (the current) of the pololu driver\n\n3) Speed was too high\n\nSo, you can try to lower acceleration, speed and tune your driver:\n\nPower on everything, see if you can turn the motor by hand (you shouldn't).\nTurn the small potentiometer on the driver board counter clockwise until you can turn the motor, turn it back until you can't turn the motor any more and then add some 1/8 - 1/4 turn.\n\nYou might also want to check your 'jerk' settings so they are not too high either.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4878,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user2698080,3.0576060275493275,4.706669332478054,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Z motor not moving during auto home,\"My Monoprice maker select recently fried its melzi board. So I went out and purchased a ramps 1.4 kit. I've wired it all up and Flash the firmware with marlin(most recent build). When it boots up it boots up fine I go to prepare. And then I go to move axis I can move the X Y and Z axis and the access is moving in the correct direction. I go to auto home and the X and Y axis home properly but the z-axis does not move at all. Even though I can move it manually. Does anyone have any suggestions. I checked the end stop for the z-axis even though I know it probably has nothing to do with it and it has continuity when the end stop switch is depressed. \n\",user2698080,\"Alright, I have figured everything out with the help of #reprap IRC community.\n\nIssue #1 - Z axis not moving during zero. Just as tjb1 suggested the issue was that it thought it was hitting the endstop, I needed to invert the logic of the endstop within the configuration.h\n\nconst bool Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true;\n\n\nIssue #2 - No Heated bed controls. The issue resided with the configuration of the heated bed within the configuration.h. The bed was not defined correctly(I do not have the solution for this one as I found a pre-configured configuration.h for the Monoprice maker Select and after loading the firmware it worked\n\nIssue #3 - The extruder motor would not move. This was the biggest issue and came down to it being a cheap RAMPS/Arduino. E0's pinouts were not working properly so I took off the driver and wiring from E0 and put it on E1 then altered the pins_RAMPS.h and swapped the values for E1 and E0 pinouts. after reloading the firmware the extruder then moved fine.\n\n#define E0_STEP_PIN 36\n#define E0_DIR_PIN 34\n#define E0_ENABLE_PIN 30\n\n#define E1_STEP_PIN 26\n#define E1_DIR_PIN 28\n#define E1_ENABLE_PIN 24\n\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n4935,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user2698080,2.1782824847157594,3.4382327199056495,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Y-axis slipping causing failed prints,\"My Y-axis on my Monoprice maker select running ramps 1.4 and Marlin makes a thud noise when moving every now and then. I have noticed a 1 to 2 mm shift in the print when this occurs. I tighten the belts and alas no joy. I ordered new bearings which should be coming Monday. I also tried slowing the print down and still get the same result. Anyone have any ideas.\n\",Mick,\"A thudding noise is usually a belt slipping through its end-restraints. A clicking noise is usually a stepper motor missing a step. Seized bearings could be the cause.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4935,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user2698080,2.1782824847157594,3.4382327199056495,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Y-axis slipping causing failed prints,\"My Y-axis on my Monoprice maker select running ramps 1.4 and Marlin makes a thud noise when moving every now and then. I have noticed a 1 to 2 mm shift in the print when this occurs. I tighten the belts and alas no joy. I ordered new bearings which should be coming Monday. I also tried slowing the print down and still get the same result. Anyone have any ideas.\n\",user2698080,\"The issue was the X-axis top smooth rod came out. this caused the extruder to bang around and shift on the Y-axis when it shifted forward. thank everyone for their help. \n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4885,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Norman Nagy,3.0576060275493275,3.6594421369459247,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,\"What happens when I print a 0,6mm thick wall with a 0,4mm diameter nozzle?\",\"\n\nThe wall thickness is 1,2mm but the lip is only 0,6mm thick. How will the 0,4mm nozzle solve this?\n\nAlternatively I could choose a 0,8 mm thick lip, but then the connecting end should be 0,4mm that is too thin. \n\",darth pixel,\"I'd say you should experiment with Slic3r\n\nit can manage extrusion in very sophisticated way\n\nit can overextrude if you need a line wider than actual nozzle size\nas same as it can underextrude if needed\nit can even change extrusion continuously while extruding one line\n\nhere are simple examples\n\n\n\n\n\n\ni use mattercontrol\n\ntake a look here - this is the same object the same layer and the same settings\n\nplease notice - this object has wall thicknes exactly 2 times nozzle diam\n\nhere is what i get with \n\n\nnative MatterControl slicer engine which gives this slice\n\nand Slic3r engine which gives this slice\n\n\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n4894,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Majid Alashari,1.0891412423578797,4.484391482074324,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Octoprint “using Google's DNS server”,\"octoprint seems to have a setting that involves googles DNS server.\n\nmy question is is that server used to access octoprint over the internet via printoid \"\"android app\"\" or via browser? if not then what does it mean?\n\n\",tjb1,\"The program is pinging that address to check the internet connection to \"\"prevent resource intensive operations if it's already clear that they won't succeed anyhow\"\". It checks for connectivity, if it has it then it will check for update otherwise it won't check for an update.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4894,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Majid Alashari,1.0891412423578797,4.484391482074324,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Octoprint “using Google's DNS server”,\"octoprint seems to have a setting that involves googles DNS server.\n\nmy question is is that server used to access octoprint over the internet via printoid \"\"android app\"\" or via browser? if not then what does it mean?\n\n\",Jesse Williams,\"That's just Google's DNS (name resolution) server. 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4 are the Google values. Your ISP will also have a DNS server that you could use, which is what it says to use Google's \"\"if you don't know what to set here\"\".\n\nUsing the Google values are your best bet since they'll pretty much absolutely always be online and available.\n\",0.0,0.0\n4916,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Majid Alashari,2.1782824847157594,4.520519813775997,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Connecting my OctoPrint to a Google drive folder,\"Is there a way where my upload folder on my OctoPrint server would be a folder on my Google drive so that I could save my G-code that was generated using Simplify3d to an existing folder on my desktop at which it would then automatically be uploaded into my RPi via the internet.\n\nOr maybe a watched folder that can be accessed via internet?\n\",goofdad,\"You could mount your google drive using gdrivefs on your pi following this tutorial: https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=109587\nHowever, I have to ask: why send the file to the internet? Is your printer/pi on a separate network than your desktop where you are slicing?\n\nIf they're on the same network, you'd be better off setting up a samba share on your raspberry pi (https://www.raspberrypi.org/magpi/samba-file-server/) and then mounting that directory from your desktop (https://www.techrepublic.com/article/how-to-connect-to-linux-samba-shares-from-windows-10/).\n\nIn either case, you could set the directory (the gdrive directory or the samba share) as the watched folder in octoprint's config.yaml (http://docs.octoprint.org/en/master/configuration/config_yaml.html#folder).\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4900,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Atticus29,2.528907649931287,4.612252940031063,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.0,Extruder motor not running during print job but working after I preheat the extruder and test it,\"I have a Prusa i3 (from FLSun). I have assembled the printer, calibrated it (fairly decently), and have successfully demonstrated extrusion manually. However, when I try to run a print job (the G-code clearly contains E commands), the extruder motor never rotates. Is this a common problem? Any suggestsions for how to resolve/troubleshoot?\n\nI can confirm that the extruder was pre-heated for PLA (up to a generous 220 C).\n\nI load an STL file into Repetier v.1.0.2, use the built-in slicer (Slic3r) to generate the G-code. I include a sample of that below:\n\n; generated by Slic3r 1.2.9 on 2017-11-08 at 10:54:07\n\n; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.50mm\n; perimeters extrusion width = 0.72mm\n; infill extrusion width = 0.72mm\n; solid infill extrusion width = 0.72mm\n; top infill extrusion width = 0.72mm\n\nM107\nM104 S200 ; set temperature\nG28 ; home all axes\nG1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle\n\nM109 S200 ; wait for temperature to be reached\nG21 ; set units to millimeters\nG90 ; use absolute coordinates\nM82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion\nG92 E0\nG1 Z0.350 F7800.000\nG1 E-2.00000 F2400.00000\nG92 E0\nG1 X76.952 Y76.952 F7800.000\nG1 E2.00000 F2400.00000\nG1 X78.055 Y75.850 E2.04824 F1800.000\nG1 X78.650 Y75.324 E2.07282\nG1 X81.121 Y73.387 E2.16997\nG1 X81.780 Y72.933 E2.19472\nG1 X84.467 Y71.309 E2.29186\nG1 X85.167 Y70.940 E2.31635\nG1 X88.143 Y69.602 E2.41730\n\n\nAs an update, I can no longer reliably get the extruder motor to run (even when I pre-heat) from the LCD. Sometimes, it works fine, but other times it doesn't seem to. Will confirm whether switching the motor connector to the z-axis to test the motor works when I get home this evening.\n\nI can confirm 1) that there is no tension pulling on the cable connections during the run, 2) the mainboard and motor connector aren't burned, cracked, and the mosfets have heatsinks on them, and 3) the extruder gear is fixed and rotates freely on the motor axis (I tested this by switching it over to the z-axis connection temporarily and confirming rotation).\n\nHere's a photo of my motherboard:\n\n\n\",ZuOverture,\"This should have been a comment: when you say \"\"manual extrusion\"\", do you mean moving filament by hand or using extruder position commands from printer menu? Is extruder motor working at all? You can for example plug it instead of a Z-motor to check.\n\nSuggested points to check:\n\n\nMotor wire connections, both on extruder and mainboard. Are plugs experiencing tension (being tilted, pulled out) from improperly fixed cables?\nHardware on mainboard next to motor connector. Does it look burned, cracked, lacks heatsinks on mosfets?\nIs extruder gear not fixed and rotating freely on extruder motor axis? You will hear sound of working motor, but it will look like it's not pulling the filament.\n\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4900,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Atticus29,2.528907649931287,4.612252940031063,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.0,Extruder motor not running during print job but working after I preheat the extruder and test it,\"I have a Prusa i3 (from FLSun). I have assembled the printer, calibrated it (fairly decently), and have successfully demonstrated extrusion manually. However, when I try to run a print job (the G-code clearly contains E commands), the extruder motor never rotates. Is this a common problem? Any suggestsions for how to resolve/troubleshoot?\n\nI can confirm that the extruder was pre-heated for PLA (up to a generous 220 C).\n\nI load an STL file into Repetier v.1.0.2, use the built-in slicer (Slic3r) to generate the G-code. I include a sample of that below:\n\n; generated by Slic3r 1.2.9 on 2017-11-08 at 10:54:07\n\n; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.50mm\n; perimeters extrusion width = 0.72mm\n; infill extrusion width = 0.72mm\n; solid infill extrusion width = 0.72mm\n; top infill extrusion width = 0.72mm\n\nM107\nM104 S200 ; set temperature\nG28 ; home all axes\nG1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle\n\nM109 S200 ; wait for temperature to be reached\nG21 ; set units to millimeters\nG90 ; use absolute coordinates\nM82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion\nG92 E0\nG1 Z0.350 F7800.000\nG1 E-2.00000 F2400.00000\nG92 E0\nG1 X76.952 Y76.952 F7800.000\nG1 E2.00000 F2400.00000\nG1 X78.055 Y75.850 E2.04824 F1800.000\nG1 X78.650 Y75.324 E2.07282\nG1 X81.121 Y73.387 E2.16997\nG1 X81.780 Y72.933 E2.19472\nG1 X84.467 Y71.309 E2.29186\nG1 X85.167 Y70.940 E2.31635\nG1 X88.143 Y69.602 E2.41730\n\n\nAs an update, I can no longer reliably get the extruder motor to run (even when I pre-heat) from the LCD. Sometimes, it works fine, but other times it doesn't seem to. Will confirm whether switching the motor connector to the z-axis to test the motor works when I get home this evening.\n\nI can confirm 1) that there is no tension pulling on the cable connections during the run, 2) the mainboard and motor connector aren't burned, cracked, and the mosfets have heatsinks on them, and 3) the extruder gear is fixed and rotates freely on the motor axis (I tested this by switching it over to the z-axis connection temporarily and confirming rotation).\n\nHere's a photo of my motherboard:\n\n\n\",Valmond,\"According to all the information:\n\n\nNo reassignment of the extruder in the Gcode\nYou can extrude if you push the filament by hand\nExtruder motor works when switched to Z driver\nZ Motor works\n\n\nI come to the conclusion that some of your electronics or the motor have fried.\n\nWhat have fried? I tried to make a step by step check:\n\nSwitch drivers between E and Z, but plug the motors as usual:\n\n1) Does the extruder extrude?\n\nYes: Your driver has fried\n\nNo:\n\n2) Were you able to move the Z motor?\n\nNo: Motherboard And driver has fried\n\nYes: \n\n3) Plug in the E motor on the Z driver, can you make the E motor turn?\n\nYes: Motherboard fried\n\nNo: Motor fried\n\nHTH and keep us updated if it worked or not!\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4904,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gentatsu,2.8153892694839717,4.56792220140013,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Filament not extruding,\"I've recently bought an Anet A8, and haven't been getting good prints with it. I noticed there was filament leaking from the top of the hot end and pooling, eventually dripping over onto my prints. I took the hot end off to clean it, and when I put it back on and tightened it, my printer wouldn't extrude anymore. I took the motor apart, and there was a lot of filament shavings inside. I tried tightening the screw that splits the bearing and gear that feeds the filament since I thought it may be getting caught in there. \n\nI can manually push filament through and it works fine. There's no jam, so I'm thinking it IS something to do with that, but I don't really know what to do. Now that I've done this also, I feel as if I've screwed up the e steps. \n\nAny ideas?\n\",Keith Bybee,\"The spindle screws on the gear are shipped not tight enough. Try taking the fan off and make sure the gear is seated properly and tighten the screws down. Here's a video that might help. https://youtu.be/zkZKzF3J3NA\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4908,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kysmo,1.726248027126092,5.108153139052682,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Anet A8 - first couple of layer are trash,\"I just got an Anet A8 and I'm pretty happy with it except for one small detail:\n\n\n\nAll my prints start like this. I tried to :\n\n\npre-heat the printer ❌\nadd a smaller height of the first layer ❌\n\n\nI’m kinda new to this and i did not find a correct answer to my problem so here’s my Cura configuration:\n\n\n\",Athanasios Karagiannis,\"I think your issue is bed leveling.\n\nI recently got my Anet A8 and the biggest kill for my print quality is bed leveling. If its too far from the nozzle, I get something like your picture. You might want to try the paper test where you manually move the nozzle to each corner of the bed and adjust the bed till the paper cannot move freely between the bed and nozzle.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4911,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user4667380,2.1782824847157594,4.450365691176433,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,How to implement wall thickness Analysis for my .net project,\"I have .stl for the 3d printing. And I want to analysis wall thickness of this model before printing. I have no idea about any tools. Can I create any console or wpf app for calculating wall thickness and cost of the printing. \nPlease help me. \n\",user802599,\"I'm not completely sure what you want to do but I will add some information that I think will help and then hopefully you can figure out what you need to know or ask another question.\n\nWhen you are asking about wall thickness there are two different things you could be referring to. A wall in the model, so you could be talking about trying to print a thin wall coming out of the model. For analysis thin wall setting some slicers will change the extrusion amount to print thicker or thinner lines, and to find those settings you would need to look at the g-code.\nOr you could be talking about the shell of the model, the outside surface, and for this you could also analysis in the slicer settings by looking at the number of perimeters the slicer will try and print. \n\nFor calculating the cost of the print you will want the amount of material used, this will also be in the g-code file. You can eather calculate this by going through each G1 command and finding out how much filament was extruded for each move the printer made. (Not some slicers reset this to zero after each layer and this gets tricky when the printer starts retracting the filament while traveling).\nOr most slicers have a commented out line of g-code at the beginning or end of the file listing how much filament will be used.\n\nIf you do analysis the .stl file you also might find that you need to repair the model file as well, Because alot of .stl files are made for 3D graphics and not for printing and so they can have intersecting triangles and not be water tight. \n\nNot all .stl files are the same they can be text or binary files, this is some c# code that will read both formats into a list of the triangles in the file for you.\n\nusing System.Numerics.Vectors; \nvoid Main(){\nvar facets = readStl(@\"\"C:\\stls\\teapot.stl\"\");}\n\npublic class facet\n{\n public Vector3 norm = new Vector3();\n public Vector3 vecA = new Vector3();\n public Vector3 vecB = new Vector3();\n public Vector3 vecC = new Vector3();\n public facet(Vector3 A, Vector3 B, Vector3 C, Vector3 N)\n {\n norm = N;\n vecA = A;\n vecB = B;\n vecC = C;\n }\n}/* facet */\n\n\npublic static System.Collections.Generic.List<facet> readStl(string file)\n{\n // check if binary or text fomat\n //Console.WriteLine(\"\"the middle\"\");\n bool isText;\n System.Collections.Generic.List<facet> facets = new System.Collections.Generic.List<facet>();\n using (System.IO.BinaryReader reader = new System.IO.BinaryReader(System.IO.File.Open(file, System.IO.FileMode.Open)))\n {\n //Console.WriteLine(\"\"Checking if binary\"\");\n string fileHeading;\n fileHeading = new string(reader.ReadChars(80));\n if (fileHeading.Contains(@\"\"solid\"\"))\n {\n isText = true;\n //Console.WriteLine(\"\"isText true\"\");\n }\n else\n {\n isText = false;\n //Console.WriteLine(\"\"isText false\"\");\n }\n if(!isText)\n {\n // process binary file\n Console.WriteLine(\"\"Is binary\"\");\n uint numberOfTriangles = reader.ReadUInt32();\n //Debug.Log(\"\"Number of Triangles: \"\" + numberOfTriangles.ToString());\n System.Console.WriteLine(\"\"Number of Triangles: \"\" + numberOfTriangles.ToString());\n for(int i = 0; i < numberOfTriangles - 1; i++)\n {\n Vector3 normals = new Vector3();\n Vector3 vecA = new Vector3();\n Vector3 vecB = new Vector3();\n Vector3 vecC = new Vector3();\n System.UInt16 byteCount = new System.UInt16();\n normals.X = reader.ReadSingle();\n normals.Y = reader.ReadSingle();\n normals.Z = reader.ReadSingle();\n vecA.X = reader.ReadSingle();\n vecA.Y = reader.ReadSingle();\n vecA.Z = reader.ReadSingle();\n vecB.X = reader.ReadSingle();\n vecB.Y = reader.ReadSingle();\n vecB.Z = reader.ReadSingle();\n vecC.X = reader.ReadSingle();\n vecC.Y = reader.ReadSingle();\n vecC.Z = reader.ReadSingle();\n byteCount = reader.ReadUInt16();\n facets.Add(new facet(vecA, vecB, vecC, normals));\n }\n }\n }\n if (isText)\n {\n // read text format file\n Console.WriteLine(\"\"Is text file\"\");\n //Console.WriteLine(\"\"reading text file\"\");\n using (System.IO.StreamReader reader = System.IO.File.OpenText(file))\n {\n string line = @\"\"\"\";\n string fileHeader = @\"\"\"\";\n line = reader.ReadLine();\n fileHeader = line.Substring(line.IndexOf(\"\"solid\"\") + 5).Trim();\n line = \"\"\"\";\n System.Console.WriteLine(@\"\"file header: \"\" + fileHeader);\n bool endOfFile = true;\n while (endOfFile)\n {\n line = reader.ReadLine();\n if (!reader.EndOfStream)\n {\n Vector3 normals = new Vector3();\n Vector3 vecA = new Vector3();\n Vector3 vecB = new Vector3();\n Vector3 vecC = new Vector3();\n string[] nums = line.Replace(\"\"facet\"\", \"\"\"\").Replace(\"\"normal\"\", \"\"\"\").Trim().Split(' ');\n normals.X = (float)System.Double.Parse(nums[0], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float);\n normals.Y = (float)System.Double.Parse(nums[1], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float);\n normals.Z = (float)System.Double.Parse(nums[2], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float);\n line = \"\"\"\";\n line = reader.ReadLine(); // outer loop\n line = reader.ReadLine(); // vertex \n string[] vecsA = line.Replace(\"\"vertex\"\", \"\"\"\").Trim().Split(' ');\n vecA.X = (float)System.Double.Parse(vecsA[0], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float);\n vecA.Y = (float)System.Double.Parse(vecsA[1], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float);\n vecA.Z = (float)System.Double.Parse(vecsA[2], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float);\n line = \"\"\"\";\n line = reader.ReadLine(); // vertex \n string[] vecsB = line.Replace(\"\"vertex\"\", \"\"\"\").Trim().Split(' ');\n vecB.X = (float)System.Double.Parse(vecsB[0], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float);\n vecB.Y = (float)System.Double.Parse(vecsB[1], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float);\n vecB.Z = (float)System.Double.Parse(vecsB[2], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float);\n line = \"\"\"\";\n line = reader.ReadLine(); // vertex \n string[] vecsC = line.Replace(\"\"vertex\"\", \"\"\"\").Trim().Split(' ');\n vecC.X = (float)System.Double.Parse(vecsC[0], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float);\n vecC.Y = (float)System.Double.Parse(vecsC[1], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float);\n vecC.Z = (float)System.Double.Parse(vecsC[2], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float);\n line = \"\"\"\";\n line = reader.ReadLine(); // endloop\n line = reader.ReadLine(); // endfacet\n facets.Add(new facet(vecA, vecB, vecC, normals));\n }\n else\n {\n endOfFile = false;\n }\n }// while loop\n System.Console.WriteLine(\"\"finished reading file\"\");\n }\n }\n return facets;\n}/* readStl */\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4911,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user4667380,2.1782824847157594,4.450365691176433,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,How to implement wall thickness Analysis for my .net project,\"I have .stl for the 3d printing. And I want to analysis wall thickness of this model before printing. I have no idea about any tools. Can I create any console or wpf app for calculating wall thickness and cost of the printing. \nPlease help me. \n\",Athanasios Karagiannis,\"If your talking about a hollow object, such as a cube with a hollow center. The wall thickness is determined by the model.\n\nIf your talking about a solid object, the wall thickness is determined by your nozzle diameter multiplied by your # of walls. This is all adjusted by your splicing software. If you have a nozzle of 0.5mm and you print at 3 perimeters, your wall should be 1.5mm. If you want the wall to be 2mm, then you will adjust your perimeters to 4. Everything within those walls will be whatever you choose for infill.\n\nI work with ASP.NET, Windows Forms, and Console Apps myself. I'm sure you can find libraries capable of taking 3D models but I don't think it would matter because the printed thickness is determined by your splicing settings. \n\nAlso for cost of printing, I recommend just using Cura which you just have to plug in some cost information about the filament and it will tell you estimated cost, mm of filament usage, and time.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4915,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,DrDevice,2.528907649931287,3.956213014801466,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,RAMPS 1.4 losing power with more than 3 drivers mounted,\"I am rebuilding the electronics for an old Reprap with a RAMPS 1.4 setup. \n\nIf I plug in just the Arduino/RAMPS board into either 12 V or USB then it starts up fine, I can see this when I have the screen plugged in. However, when I start to add driver boards, the screen begins to dim. After I have three boards plugged in the power starts to drop to the point that the Arduino powers off and restarts, even when the screen is not plugged in. I have had this problem with two sets of RAMPS boards and Arduinos and with a combination of 7 different driver boards plugged into different combinations of location.\n\nHas anyone else had any similar issues or have an idea of what might be going on? Any ideas are welcome, I am just about at my wits end with this.\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"Your power supply may not be able to provide enough current. Check it's output voltage, the input at the RAMPS and the supply voltage (both VMOT and VDD) on each driver.\n\nIf the supply is good, you can suspect the polyfuses on the RAMPS board. These are yellow rectangles, designed to protect against over-current. They age with stress, and typically fail to pass their full rated current (but you need to understand if there is a fault which damaged them). The link describes how to remove them.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4917,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Foad,2.528907649931287,4.058079670446898,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Acetone smoothing not working on ABSPlus-P430,\"I am using a STRATASYS Fortus 250mc to 3D print some parts. I have read a lot on internet and also on some scientific literature that Acetone dissolves ABS and cold/hot vapor has been successfully used to smoothen the surfaces. But it doesn't work for me.\n\nI followed the instructions: soaking some papers with Acetone and putting the parts in a closed container with a fan for some time. But it had no effects. Then I tried dipping the parts in Acetone and I observed that they do not react to the substance at all!\n\nHas anybody ever had a similar experience? Maybe ABSPlus-p430 is not soluble with Acetone? in that case what is a solvent for it?\n\nI asked the same question here on Reddit.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Make sure that your acetone is actually acetone. According to the MSDS, ABSPlus-P430 is indeed \"\"ABS resin\"\" so acetone smoothing should work. Some companies sell confusingly-labeled products that might be mistaken for acetone, but are actually \"\"eco-friendly\"\" alternatives such as 2-butoxyethanol. While these alternatives work for some of the uses for which acetone is normally used (such as cleaning or degreasing), they don't work for smoothing ABS.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n4919,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Viktor,1.0891412423578797,3.5615070843884675,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Inexpensive 3D printer for medical applications,\"We need a 3D printer, that can print with plastic suitable for medical applications. We have about $5000 for the printer. What printers can we choose? I am not a specialist in 3D printing, so please answer in detail. \n\nWe need to print breathing tubes with cuffs. The tubes should be flexible, but rigid enough in order not to collapse. The cuff material should be thin and collapsible, but very strong. Breathing tubes are inserted through the mouth and stay in contact with mucous membrane for many hours.\n\",user802599,\"I am not an expert but I think you will find that because 3D printers use a layer by layer construction method, and the boundary between the layers creates grooves along the surface or leaves a rough texture on the surface. That the textured surface left by 3D printer construction would trap microbes and make 3D printed objects not suitable for medical applications where you need the product to be sterile. \n\nIt might be possible to treat the printed object or post process it. By vapor smoothing or painting/coating, but I doing think this would work for flexible materials. \n\nIf you are considering 3D printing because of the ability to customize the design, then I would suggest considering combining 3D printing with molding or casting. You could then use a cheap 3D printer to create the mold and use a flexible resin to create the object you want. \n\nI have heard of SLA 3D printing being used to create molds for casting fake teeth. There 3D printing is used to create a custom shape and the print is used to make a mold and the final product is cast using the mold to get the quality and finish needed.\n\nAnd I have head of FDM printing being used in used in remote areas to print clamps for umbilical cords. But I believe this was because not no other option was available. \n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4919,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Viktor,1.0891412423578797,3.5615070843884675,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Inexpensive 3D printer for medical applications,\"We need a 3D printer, that can print with plastic suitable for medical applications. We have about $5000 for the printer. What printers can we choose? I am not a specialist in 3D printing, so please answer in detail. \n\nWe need to print breathing tubes with cuffs. The tubes should be flexible, but rigid enough in order not to collapse. The cuff material should be thin and collapsible, but very strong. Breathing tubes are inserted through the mouth and stay in contact with mucous membrane for many hours.\n\",Trish,\"Not in that price range\n\n5000 USD might sound much, but it is far outside of the scope of an industrial 3D printer. You ask to print parts that are safe for implantation, so you need a machine that is allowed to produce medical implants. A machine that makes medical products needs to have them certified by the authorities. These demand strict tests on quality control and the materials allowed are specifically listed.\n\nMachines that could work with these materials in the quality demanded are expensive. For example I found with a quick search a nice article: there are SLS printed bones out there - yet an industrial (certified) SLS printer costs several times the budget you have at hand. The same article suggested that 3D Bioprinting has had enough advancements recently to produce heart valves, but the product is undergoing medical tests still. So pretty much both of these examples (and most others on that site) are out of bounds for the finances at hand or are not approved for use on humans.\n\nThere are some medical tool application that can be 3D Printed though: the mentioned umbilical cord clamps or other solid one-way articles like clamps or spreaders could be made safely from medical grade plastics, yet your chosen material and designed parts will need to undergo medical safety testing - and thus from prototyping to allowance to use it you will spend months or years waiting. This makes this over all much more expensive than using standard one-way baloon cuffed endotracheal tubes. These do contain one unprintable part even: the balloon.\n\nNon-implant/non-invasive medical aides like the prothetics of enabling the future project are one of the safe applications for 3D printing in medicine at the time of this writing, and they are doable inside a 5000 USD budget.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4923,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,voices,2.1782824847157594,4.084851449618667,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.878685800062712,How to concave a cylinder with Onshape?,\"If I have a 3D cylindrical extrusion (in Onshape), how can I scoop, carve, or indent a concave/parabolic curve in one of the ends?\n\nThe yellow surface is the target.\n\nHere is the basic shape I'm trying to bore out (like a satellite dish, parabolic antenna, or even a contact lens.. You get the idea).\n\n\",fred_dot_u,\"As is typical with many CAD type programs, a feature in Onshape known as revolve may be your solution. As you have a clear formula for the cross-section, half of the work is complete. \n\nYou would generate a sketch representing the curve, then use the Revolve feature with the axis oriented to vertical. According to the Onshape video, you can generate a solid or a surface from the options that appear when selecting that feature.\n\n\n\n\n\nAs you can see in the images above, the axis selected in the tutorial video is horizontal. Other features of revolve are covered in the video. Your post suggests it will also be necessary to perform a subtraction action on the assembly in order to get the scoop/concave result.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4923,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,voices,2.1782824847157594,4.084851449618667,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.878685800062712,How to concave a cylinder with Onshape?,\"If I have a 3D cylindrical extrusion (in Onshape), how can I scoop, carve, or indent a concave/parabolic curve in one of the ends?\n\nThe yellow surface is the target.\n\nHere is the basic shape I'm trying to bore out (like a satellite dish, parabolic antenna, or even a contact lens.. You get the idea).\n\n\",TECTEC3 Studios,\"Create a midplane going through it, and then sketch half if a profile for what you want yo carve out on it that plane, and in the spot where you need it to carve out. Now revolve that profile around it's Central axis and this should cut wlthe piece you want out.\n\",0.0,0.0\n4924,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,G. Santos,2.1782824847157594,3.071923460387521,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Always keep printer hot and ready to print,\"We are using a Prusa i3 MK2 printer in a structural design firm to print the buildings we design as well as print individual panels and components. Projects can have 100s of pieces that need to be printed quickly, but the printer cools of quickly after the print finishes. When we go to start the next print we have to wait 10-15 minutes for the printer to warm up again. \n\nWe tried preheating it using the built in function hoping that it would keep the heaters on after the print is complete but had no success. \n\nIs there any way to set the printer to stay warm after the print to be able to quickly print back to back?\n\",Jesse Williams,\"Just set values in your end code for your slicer. Set the bed to the temp you use, set the nozzle to roughly the Tg temp of the filament you use. Typically the bed heatup time is the worst offender here. I wouldn't keep the nozzle at extruding temps, though.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4925,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dev MIT,2.8153892694839717,3.985163827898809,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Missing print steps in e-waste 3d printer,\"I'm trying to create a 3D printer based on this instructable, EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter.\n\nI have followed the steps provided there, and I'm facing the problem that the x-axis isn't able to move, i.e. the motor works fine but the z-axis part which is connected to x-axis doesn't move left and right. I have tried the following already:\n\n\nChanged the design of 3d printer by attaching x-axis with y-axis and leaving z-axis separately\nI gave a little force to the z-axis part and it starts to move left and right.\n\n\nAny help on this would be appreciated!\n\n\n\n\",Greenonline,\"Firstly, the X-axis should not be attached to the Y-axis. \n\nSecondly, with respect to the Z-axis not being moved by the X-axis, it sounds like the X-axis stepper either:\n\n\nis dead, or;\ndoes not have sufficient power to move.\n\n\nI would suggest removing the Z-axis from the X-axis CD carriage, in order to reduce the mass and therefore the power required to move it, and test the X-axis in isolation. If it moves left and right correctly, then it is not dead (obviously). If it does not move, then try adjusting (increasing) the current to the stepper motor, by adjusting the EasyDriver (assuming that you are using an EasyDriver stepper motor controller):\n\n\n\nIf it still does not move, then replace the stepper (or the whole X-axis CD-ROM drive, which is probably easier).\n\nThen replace the Z-axis and test the X-axis movement again. If it does not move then the stepper does not have sufficient power, or strength, to move the mass of the Z-axis and, again, will probably require increasing the current to it, by adjusting the EasyDriver (as above):\n\n\nIf that does not help, then it will probably need need replacing.\nIf it does move, then you've fixed it.\n\n\n\n\nAddendum\n\nHaving re-read your question, you state that the X-axis stepper motor works fine. So, it could be that the mechanism to which the stepper motor is attached is broken (teeth, gears, etc.) and not moving the CD carriage correctly. Again, remove the Z-axis and check the mechanics of the X-axis. \n\nIf they are damaged, then you will probably need to replace the CD-ROM drive that was used for the X-axis. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4927,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joe Clinton,3.0576060275493275,4.848287887940097,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,Hot end jamming very quickly,\"I have built a 3D printer out of parts from my tip, a ramps board, arduino mega, and a hot end. However, after doing a test extrusion some plastic was spewed out and then the print jammed un-expectantly and my homemade extruder no longer had the strength to push the filament. \n\nI took the filament out and what I found was that the filament going into the extruder had formed a cylinder at the end. Then after pushing the filament through by hand to eliminate the possibility of my weak extruder, I found that the filament was expanding coming out of the filament, and then cooling down unable to go through. I cut the filament, removing the bloated end, pushed it back into the extruder and then again after 30 seconds the same problem occurred. \nAfter researching, I came to the conclusion that maybe there is a gap allowing filament to go out of the heating area, expand and then cool down, or even my wooden direct to bowden adapter is stopping the filament cooling causing it to clog. However I am not sure.\n\nI am becoming frustrated as I am doing this for a school project, I only have two weeks left to finish and everything seems to be failing. Any help would be much appreciated. \n\nFor reference this is my hotend: link to amazon\nI brought the cheapest one available on amazon, so it has no fan and no way to connect a bowden tube. I have created a basic adapter between the thread and a bowden tube holder, out of wood. It's not good but it does the job.\n\nHere is a picture of my hot end and what the filament looks like after I removed it. There appears to be a spiral shape on some of them.\n\n\n\n\",Mick,\"You are suffering from what is called \"\"heat creep\"\". Molten filament is creeping up the heat break and into the bowden tube, where it is causing a jam. You need to install a proper radiator block that is cooled by a fan, not just a lump of wood as a \"\"cold end\"\". The cold end is not just a connector, its primary purpose is to act as a cooler. A hot end on its own is not enough. You also need a cold end. Here is my extruder disassembled (fan omitted). The radiator block is the red item.\n\n\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n4927,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joe Clinton,3.0576060275493275,4.848287887940097,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,Hot end jamming very quickly,\"I have built a 3D printer out of parts from my tip, a ramps board, arduino mega, and a hot end. However, after doing a test extrusion some plastic was spewed out and then the print jammed un-expectantly and my homemade extruder no longer had the strength to push the filament. \n\nI took the filament out and what I found was that the filament going into the extruder had formed a cylinder at the end. Then after pushing the filament through by hand to eliminate the possibility of my weak extruder, I found that the filament was expanding coming out of the filament, and then cooling down unable to go through. I cut the filament, removing the bloated end, pushed it back into the extruder and then again after 30 seconds the same problem occurred. \nAfter researching, I came to the conclusion that maybe there is a gap allowing filament to go out of the heating area, expand and then cool down, or even my wooden direct to bowden adapter is stopping the filament cooling causing it to clog. However I am not sure.\n\nI am becoming frustrated as I am doing this for a school project, I only have two weeks left to finish and everything seems to be failing. Any help would be much appreciated. \n\nFor reference this is my hotend: link to amazon\nI brought the cheapest one available on amazon, so it has no fan and no way to connect a bowden tube. I have created a basic adapter between the thread and a bowden tube holder, out of wood. It's not good but it does the job.\n\nHere is a picture of my hot end and what the filament looks like after I removed it. There appears to be a spiral shape on some of them.\n\n\n\n\",Rodrigo Fulanito,\"Hello it's seems that your hotend's barrel get's too hot when your ar printing, have you try to make a heat sink on the barrell, with some washers and nuts? That worked for me, like this\n\nI Took that idea from this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvICpdVONXM \n\nAlso make sure that the hotend's aluminum block is properly insulated, you could do this with some Kapton Tape.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5044,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joe Clinton,3.0576060275493275,5.887328604834813,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,How can I prevent my nozzle catching on my print?,\"I have created a budget 3d printer using parts of old computers, specifically I used the CD drive mechanisms for the x,y and z axis. This printer is similar to the curiosity E-Waste printer, as seen here: Link\n\nAfter quite a bit of time working on it I have got to the point where my printer should be able to print, but unfortunately, I have encountered an issue. \nThe layers in which the printer prints fluctuate in height, and so when the nozzle travels over the lower layers to do the next layer, it hits a bump, misses some steps and becomes mis-aligned. I have never owned a 3d printer before, but I think that it is likely that the problem I have which causes the prints to not be flat is likely a common 3d printer problem. However, with commercial 3D printers, these bumps would probably only cause a drop in the quality of the print and not a complete fail; it is only due to how weak my motors are that the nozzle will miss a step with even the slightest force against it. \n\nI have thought about why the layers may not be flat and I have come up with a few possibilities that I think are the problem. I do not know if these are in fact the source of the issue, but these are the things that I have considered so far. \n\n\nThe nozzle height when starting the print. If I lower it then the layer height will be smaller, and so there is less chance for it to be higher in different places. However upon testing this I found that, due to the reduced height upon the first layer the nozzle would get stuck. \nWhen the nozzle changes direction, for example at the edges of the print, there is significant vibration and it is possible that this cause the filament to overlap and not be flat. The vibration is due to the nature of my printer and would be very hard to reduce. A solution could be some kind of software fix, but I do not know enough about this to do so. \nMaybe the speed at which I am printing is not good. I'm printing currently at an incredibly slow 40mm/s.I have tried different speeds but at low speeds there is over extrusion and at high speeds, the vibration is too much. \nI have tried experimenting with flow rate (100%,75%,and 50%) and at the moment I am using 50%. This is because my extruder motor is a bit weak and often misses steps, also the filament requires considerable force to push it through. Is this normal?. My idea is that maybe there is too much filament being extruded and so if I lower the flow rate the print will not create bumps. \nThe filament curls slightly when it comes out of the nozzle and I have tried to fix this by cleaning it and printing faster but it is only reduced. I'm printing at 200° currently; Will higher or lower print temperatures cause the filament to curl less and be more easy to push through the hot end?\n\n\nAs you can see there are a lot of factors in which I need to consider if I want my printer to be able to print correctly. And unfortunately, with my printer it is either perfect or a failed print; there is no in between. Due to the weak motors everything has to be exactly right, or the nozzle will get stuck. \n\nI am not sure how to add videos here so I will instead. add some photos of the prints, and three photos detailing how the prints fail. \n\nBelow is an image containing the 6 most recent prints in which I played around with the different factors mentioned above. The top middle one is the most recent one. The object i am trying to print is a simple cuboid. \n\n\nThis is what the first layer of my most recent print looked like. There is some kind of gap in the middle for some reason, but I don't think that is the source of the error. The print appears to have adhered well, at this point and it is relatively flat.\n\n\nThis is what the second layer of the print looked like, notice how the lines are wobbly and not very neat. There is also a small area of higher height in the bottom left corner which inevitably causes the nozzle to get stuck. \n\n\nThis is the print after the nozzle hit the now cooled down blob, missed some steps and then was misaligned. It then goes on to print the next layer in the wrong place and gets stuck very badly. \n\n\nThank you, for reading this. Any help would be much appreciated\n\",cmm,\"A printer must be working very well to not have the problem with the head hitting against small verticle protuberances and losing control of the X and Y positions.\n\nSome factors I've found that make bigger bumps. If you have any of these, fixing them will make the problem better. From observation, it is ultimately the power of the motors, the ability fo the nozzle to melt through small bumps and the resilience of the mechanism (not something that is otherwise helpful) that let decent prints proceed.\n\n\nThe first layer may not be the height you expect. First layers are\ntypically 100% filled. If you are extruding too much plastic for\nthe layer height, it has to go into a bump. To fix this, check your\nvertical height. Measure with calipers the height of the flat\nportions of a 1-layer print, and compare that with your slicer\nexpectation. Adjust the vertical offset to make the actual meet the\nintended. \nYou may be extruding too much plastic. Depending on your\nslicer, you can adjust this by tweaking. I user slic3r, and can\nadjust the filament diameter. Overstating the diameter causes\nunder-extrusion. Understating the diameter will cause over\nextrusion. \nSometimes the bumps come mostly at changes of direction. \nThis is possibly caused by several things, but I'd look first for\nbacklash. The mechanism should be tight, and not move under\nmoderate side-to-side or front-to-back force. If it jiggles, it\nwill can cause problems. Wiggle it. Look at what moves. Should it\nmove? If belt driven, the belts should be tight. If driven with a\nlead screw, the nut should not move and the screw should not move. \nIf they do, fix it somehow.\nIf you are running the motors near the maximum speed and/or\nacceleration, their torque will be lower than if they are running\nslower. Try slowing everything down by a factor of two and see how\nthe problem changes.\nIt might help to print at a higher temperature, so the nozzle can\nmelt through the bumps with less force. This could cause other\nproblems, but if you are marginally cool now, warmer might work\nbetter.\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5145,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joe Clinton,3.0576060275493275,5.3809191941393495,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Why is my 3D printer over extruding when I have set the flow rate very low,\"Hello I am using Cura to slice my prints, and despite turning the flow rate to the minimum value of 5%, my prints are still hugely over extruding. \n\nI have calibrated the extruder stepper perfectly, using Pronterface, so I do not understand why this is occurring. I have also timed how long it took to extrude a certain length and compared it to the length of time it was meant to extrude and it was exactly the same. Therefore, I have concluded it is not a problem with the calibration of the stepper. \n\nSo, I think there is a problem with the settings on Cura. Orginally, I had the flow rate at 100% and this was really, really terrible. Then I turned it down as far as possible and the print got better but there was still over extrusion. I can't down it down any further. \n\nI can not figure out what the problem could possibly be and as you would imagine it is very, very frustrating.\n\nHere is the print profile:\n\n\nEdit - Some extra information\n\nSo the printer is not of any model, as it is homemade CD drive 3D printer. It shares many similarities with the Curiosity3D printer, so if you want more information on how it works, then their website will be of much value.\nLink\n\nThe extruder is a bowden style one. It uses a cheap e3d hotend Link to amazon and a RepRap extruder kit as the motor Link to amazon. \n\nHere are the Machine settings:\n\n\n\nThis is a photo of two failed prints. On the left is a G and on the right is a heart. \n\n\nThis is what it was the G was meant to look like:\n\n\n\nEdit 2 - More information\n\nSo here is a link to the configuration.h file which I previously modified for my 3D printer.Dropbox link\n\nAlso the filament I use is \"\"Robox PLA SmartReel Cornflower Blue\"\" link\n\nAny help would be much appreciated. \n\",Mick,\"The fact that your printer is a scratch build using low-power stepper motors would tend to indicate that the problems lie in your hardware and/or firmware. It is very difficult to provide advice for such printers, simply because most 3D printer owners will have zero experience with them.\n\nPossible candidates for the causes of your problem are fairly obvious:\n\n\nCheck that the stepper motors are not skipping, and that you have the correct number of steps per millimetre.\nCheck that your extruder is not skipping, and has the correct number of steps per millimetre.\nCheck that your firmware is matching filament flow with extruder speeds correctly.\nCheck that your firmware is configured correctly. How you do this for a scratch build is largely down to you.\n\n\nOne thing that I would advise is that you reduce the jerk and acceleration values, since they look to be far too high.\n\nYou have done well to get so far with such a build, but you may have to ask yourself if there is anything to be gained in continuing with your project.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5145,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joe Clinton,3.0576060275493275,5.3809191941393495,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Why is my 3D printer over extruding when I have set the flow rate very low,\"Hello I am using Cura to slice my prints, and despite turning the flow rate to the minimum value of 5%, my prints are still hugely over extruding. \n\nI have calibrated the extruder stepper perfectly, using Pronterface, so I do not understand why this is occurring. I have also timed how long it took to extrude a certain length and compared it to the length of time it was meant to extrude and it was exactly the same. Therefore, I have concluded it is not a problem with the calibration of the stepper. \n\nSo, I think there is a problem with the settings on Cura. Orginally, I had the flow rate at 100% and this was really, really terrible. Then I turned it down as far as possible and the print got better but there was still over extrusion. I can't down it down any further. \n\nI can not figure out what the problem could possibly be and as you would imagine it is very, very frustrating.\n\nHere is the print profile:\n\n\nEdit - Some extra information\n\nSo the printer is not of any model, as it is homemade CD drive 3D printer. It shares many similarities with the Curiosity3D printer, so if you want more information on how it works, then their website will be of much value.\nLink\n\nThe extruder is a bowden style one. It uses a cheap e3d hotend Link to amazon and a RepRap extruder kit as the motor Link to amazon. \n\nHere are the Machine settings:\n\n\n\nThis is a photo of two failed prints. On the left is a G and on the right is a heart. \n\n\nThis is what it was the G was meant to look like:\n\n\n\nEdit 2 - More information\n\nSo here is a link to the configuration.h file which I previously modified for my 3D printer.Dropbox link\n\nAlso the filament I use is \"\"Robox PLA SmartReel Cornflower Blue\"\" link\n\nAny help would be much appreciated. \n\",Joe Clinton,\"I fixed this issue a while back but I realised others might see this. I’m not exactly sure what fixed it though. I was meddling with the ee-prom when suddenly it started working again. I suspect somehow a different steps per mm value was stored on the ee-prom so no matter what I did to change it (in the firmware) it made no difference. Then I either changed the settings in the ee-prom or disable it. I can’t really remember.\n\nWhen it started working it looked like nothing was extruding because 5% extrude rate really is very low!\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4934,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Technico.top,2.1782824847157594,4.207875721687259,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Can't connect printer to repetier-server on RPI3,\"I'm struggling to connect a K8200 printer to a rpi3 running repetier-server 0.86.2 armhf.\n\nEverything works fine on a PC with the 0.86.2 windows version, but on the Rpi i'm stuck on the second step of the printer setup : \n\nI define my firmware, Marlin, my baudRate at 250000, then I tried every port that seems involved (/dev/serial/by-id/usb-FTDI_FT231X_USB_UART_DA00DDXD-if00-port0, /dev/serial/by-path/platform-3f980000.usb-usb-0:1.2:1.0-port0, /dev/tty/USB0, /dev/tty/AMA0, )\nbut whatever I may try, I'm stuck on \"\"En attente de connexion\"\", that forbids me to go to step 3, as to see my printer connected.\n\nI tried to use the reset button on the printer board, as unplugging-plugging the USB, with no more luck.\n/var/lib/Repetier-Server/logs/server.log don't shown any error.\n\nNote : CartesianVirtual port still works fine...\n\nWhat else can I do ? Is there other relevant logs anywhere ?\n\nI'm unsure if this question should have been adressed to rpi, 3d printing or linux community, I'm sorry if I offend anyone :)\n\",Technico.top,\"Thanks to the repetier team on git hub, we found that the problem came from a permission issue on /dev/ttyUSB0, as the user repetierserver couldn't access it.\n\nOther people reported that these commands solves the problem:\nsudo adduser repetierserver dialout\nsudo adduser repetierserver tty\nbut in my case it seems I need to run :\nsudo chmod 777 /dev/ttyUSB0\nin order to solve this.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4945,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,James Newton,2.8153892694839717,4.164096833011028,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,0.9784382375735183,Outputting an STL file that contains multiple objects for import into Blender,\"I want to print a object that looks like a flat board with a set of matchbox-like lumps on top of it.\n\nI have written a script that outputs an STL file. To keep the script simple, it creates an object that includes non-manifold edges. To be precise, the board and the boxes are a single model, but each has 6 faces made from 2 triangles. The underside of each matchbox rests on the top of the larger flat board.\n\nIf I understand correctly, the top face of the board should be broken up into many smaller triangles to take into account the position of the matchboxes, but coding this by hand (although it might be an interesting Exercise For The Reader) would not be a good use of time. Well-written code that already does this is built into FOSS applications like Blender.\n\nHowever, Blender cannot merge or fuse shapes that are part of the same object. My current understanding is that I will need to:\n\n\nProvide Blender with multiple objects\nSelect all the objects\nUse Ctrl-J to merge them\nExport the world in STL format\n\n\nIs this a valid approach?\n\nIf so, my key question is: how do I format the STL file so that Blender will recognize that it contains multiple separate objects?\n\n(I have found references to STL files containing multiple objects, but I have seen nothing in any of the STL files that I have examined that tells me: here is the end of one object and the beginning of another.)\n\nOr should I just be clunky and export two STL files — one for the board and one for all the matchboxes — and then import both into Blender?\n\n\n\nNOTE: I know that there are free services like Netfabb that will correct my simple files for me, but I would prefer not to include that in my workflow if possible.\n\",Trish,\"Let's look at it...\n\nIt's something like this: a closed box with protrusions that have no inner surface. like this cobbled together thing.\n\n\n\nLet's just for fun export it as a .stl. yes, a single .stl file. And now open it in MeshMixer:\n\n\n\nLooks not half bad, right? But a red box? What shall that mean? look at the blender model again: Oh right, the normals on those surfaces are backwards! W F in blender flips the normals, reexport the .stl, reload into MeshMixer!\n\n\n\nNow we are talking! Let's look how we can fix this... Edit > Make Solid with a high Solid Accuracy with both a high Solid Accuracy and Mesh Density results in reasonable sharp corners and... DANG! One solid body, all neatly closed.\n\n\nNow, test: Export (ctrl+E) and import into blender.\n\n\n\nYet, we got a problem: this thing that had been 11 faces and 16 vertices became almost 1.2 million vertices and 2.4 million faces. This surely can be condensed some, but we just achieved a well printable merge of the objects.\n\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n4945,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,James Newton,2.8153892694839717,4.164096833011028,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,0.9784382375735183,Outputting an STL file that contains multiple objects for import into Blender,\"I want to print a object that looks like a flat board with a set of matchbox-like lumps on top of it.\n\nI have written a script that outputs an STL file. To keep the script simple, it creates an object that includes non-manifold edges. To be precise, the board and the boxes are a single model, but each has 6 faces made from 2 triangles. The underside of each matchbox rests on the top of the larger flat board.\n\nIf I understand correctly, the top face of the board should be broken up into many smaller triangles to take into account the position of the matchboxes, but coding this by hand (although it might be an interesting Exercise For The Reader) would not be a good use of time. Well-written code that already does this is built into FOSS applications like Blender.\n\nHowever, Blender cannot merge or fuse shapes that are part of the same object. My current understanding is that I will need to:\n\n\nProvide Blender with multiple objects\nSelect all the objects\nUse Ctrl-J to merge them\nExport the world in STL format\n\n\nIs this a valid approach?\n\nIf so, my key question is: how do I format the STL file so that Blender will recognize that it contains multiple separate objects?\n\n(I have found references to STL files containing multiple objects, but I have seen nothing in any of the STL files that I have examined that tells me: here is the end of one object and the beginning of another.)\n\nOr should I just be clunky and export two STL files — one for the board and one for all the matchboxes — and then import both into Blender?\n\n\n\nNOTE: I know that there are free services like Netfabb that will correct my simple files for me, but I would prefer not to include that in my workflow if possible.\n\",Firedrake,\"I think there's an easier way to do this - if you're not committed to using Blender, and it sounds as if you're not.\n\nTake a look at http://www.openscad.org/ (which should run anywhere that Blender does). It's very easy to write code to produce your desired shape (in this case it would be a union of cuboids) in OpenSCAD's description language, and then you can use OpenSCAD itself to render that to STL. (It's even possible to automate this from the command line.)\n\",0.0,0.0\n4948,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user145959,1.0891412423578797,4.018747546869096,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,It seems my filament is burnt when I use PETG,\"I use the Cura; nylon default(recommended) settings for PETG. Upon my filament's box is written 200-240 for nozzle and 75-85 for bed. So I tried 245/80 - 220/80 - 220/60 - 245/60.\n\nBut I got same result as you can see in the pics:\n\n\n\n\n\nMy printer is PrusaI3 (actually a chinese kit that I assembled it myself). Also I had good print results with PLA before this. I was using 190/50 for PLA).\n\",Mick,\"It looks like you have a clogged nozzle/hot end. I use 225°C @ 40mm/s for PETG with 235°C @ 30mm/s for the first layer.\n\nIf you print at 245°C, you risk burning the PTFE liner in your hot end. You really need an all-metal hot end to print at such temperatures.\n\nIt is possible that you have already damaged the PTFE liner, and this may be the cause of your problem. However, I would check for a clogged nozzle first.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n4950,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user145959,2.1782824847157594,3.622620754869475,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.9784382375735183,Strange leveling problem by PrusaI3,\"I have a PrusaI3(Chinese kit that I assembled myself). my strange problem is that: when I try to leveling the bed, upper-left and bottom-right corners of the bed, are more far than the nozzle, respect to upper-right and bottom-left.\n\nI don't know why, but I can't level them with the screws(because upper-left and bottom-right screws goes to be free sooner than their opposite side screws!!). I thought maybe the heated bed is not flat but I use a glass upon it! and it's not possible both of them are not flat! \n\nEDIT: I can remember the last time I used my printer, there was a knocking sound when Y-AXIS was moving about the half of it's way. I very tried to find the cause of knocking sound but I couldn't. now, I have opened the heating bed and there is no sound when I move Y-Axis by hand. \nI hope you can understand me and help me too!\n\nEDIT2: I did measure the rods and bed corners, I found that this corner(pointed by finger) is about 2 millimeters lower than other 3 corners! (It seems the bed part is not flat). \n\n\n\nHow can I fix this?\n\",Kaleb Iahn Reginaldo,\"How did you measure the bed corners (caliper, ruler, spirit-level)?\nI had a similar problem in my 3d printer (Geetech Prusa REpRap I3) I solved by using an indicator (distance amplifying instrument). what I did was to set-up my heating bed completely, with the glass, screws with spacers, springs.\nI had fix on the z-axis my indicator set to 0, and I started moving the printer with small increments to each corner of the bed, slowing adjusting each corner screw to keep my bed on level. It is a very dull and time consuming process, but, now I have an offset from one corner to the other of just 30 µm.\n\nKeep in mind that during a normal printing, the heating bed due to thermal expansion may increase the deviation of your calibration step.\n\nIf you have any doubts do not hesitate to ask!\nCheers \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4950,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user145959,2.1782824847157594,3.622620754869475,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.9784382375735183,Strange leveling problem by PrusaI3,\"I have a PrusaI3(Chinese kit that I assembled myself). my strange problem is that: when I try to leveling the bed, upper-left and bottom-right corners of the bed, are more far than the nozzle, respect to upper-right and bottom-left.\n\nI don't know why, but I can't level them with the screws(because upper-left and bottom-right screws goes to be free sooner than their opposite side screws!!). I thought maybe the heated bed is not flat but I use a glass upon it! and it's not possible both of them are not flat! \n\nEDIT: I can remember the last time I used my printer, there was a knocking sound when Y-AXIS was moving about the half of it's way. I very tried to find the cause of knocking sound but I couldn't. now, I have opened the heating bed and there is no sound when I move Y-Axis by hand. \nI hope you can understand me and help me too!\n\nEDIT2: I did measure the rods and bed corners, I found that this corner(pointed by finger) is about 2 millimeters lower than other 3 corners! (It seems the bed part is not flat). \n\n\n\nHow can I fix this?\n\",user145959,\"I could solve my problem by this strange system for both opposite sides but I couldn't find the really reson of this problem!:\n\n\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n4965,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user145959,2.8153892694839717,5.103032589990375,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,What is the meaning of extruder's knocking sound?,\"I have a Prusa i3 printer with mk8 extruder. I am using PETG with (200-240/75-85) degrees recommended temp on it's box. but when I do printing i hear some knocking sound that means there is a problem in extrusion. last time I did increase my temp up to 270 degrees!! maybe this sound solved! but it damaged my extruder's screw's inner Teflon and I forced to change it! \n\nNow I have a new nozzle and extruder's screw, but again I can hear this sound during the printing! I thought maybe it's because of very close distance between the nozzle and the bed, but when I increase the distance, the filament starts to warping!\n\nMy nozzle is new and it can't be for clogging. so I decreased the print speed from it's default 60mm(in Cura software) to 50, but didn't solve this sound. Also when I use pronterface and do extrusion manually, it works nice with 200 degrees! but I can hear the sound in 190 degrees. But when I do printing I hear the sound even in 200 degrees! Is this mean I must increase the temperature for printing? how much?\n\nBy knocking sound I mean the sound you can hear when you have a clogged nozzle and the extruder's stepper motor can't push the filament into it and rotates with knocking sound!\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The extruder motor may be skipping steps because of insufficient current. Typically, the stepper driver will have a small potentiometer that lets you increase or decrease the current. Increasing the current will give the motor more torque/force, but also cause it (and the driver) to heat up more.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n4965,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user145959,2.8153892694839717,5.103032589990375,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,What is the meaning of extruder's knocking sound?,\"I have a Prusa i3 printer with mk8 extruder. I am using PETG with (200-240/75-85) degrees recommended temp on it's box. but when I do printing i hear some knocking sound that means there is a problem in extrusion. last time I did increase my temp up to 270 degrees!! maybe this sound solved! but it damaged my extruder's screw's inner Teflon and I forced to change it! \n\nNow I have a new nozzle and extruder's screw, but again I can hear this sound during the printing! I thought maybe it's because of very close distance between the nozzle and the bed, but when I increase the distance, the filament starts to warping!\n\nMy nozzle is new and it can't be for clogging. so I decreased the print speed from it's default 60mm(in Cura software) to 50, but didn't solve this sound. Also when I use pronterface and do extrusion manually, it works nice with 200 degrees! but I can hear the sound in 190 degrees. But when I do printing I hear the sound even in 200 degrees! Is this mean I must increase the temperature for printing? how much?\n\nBy knocking sound I mean the sound you can hear when you have a clogged nozzle and the extruder's stepper motor can't push the filament into it and rotates with knocking sound!\n\",Mick,\"It sounds like your filament is not hot enough to be extruded, which will cause the stepper motor to 'skip' (and produce a knocking or clicking sound). 200°C sounds rather low for PETG, and I do not get good extrusion below 215°C. I normally print at 225°C, with the first layer at 235°C. I also print slower than I do for PLA -- 40mm/s and 30mm/s for the first layer.\n\nNote that thermistors can be inaccurate, and may report temperatures several degrees lower or higher than are actually being achieved.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n4973,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user145959,1.0891412423578797,4.329476789776803,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Knocking/Clicking sound when Y-Carriage passas trough the middle of rods,\"Here is a video about 30MB, that shows my printer and it's sound during printing: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wj5_Uwv4X8SoLaouxBi1FHFi4x4Uoegd/view?usp=drivesdk\n\nI guess the reason of this sound is the bed. Because I couldn't level my bed with screws and upper=left and bottom-right corners of the bed were about 1.5mm lower than the opposite sides. So I added two nuts behind the springs of these two sides! I don't know really if it could help but know I can print almost good.\n\n\nSo i think the knocking sound is because of these nuts and my bed carriage is not 100% flat(although it seems flat by eyes). Or maybe my rods aren't parallel(although they seems parallel by simple ruler measurement).\n\nBy the way, I like to know does anyone experimented same problem? or can guess the real problem or suggest a way to solve it? \n\nAnd IMPORTANT question: May this problem break my heated-bed? Or causes new problems in future?\n\",Athanasios Karagiannis,\"I don't think the sound is coming from nuts and springs.\n\nI can think of 3 possible sources.\n\nY axis rod bearings\n\nThose four bearings that are mounted onto your bed frame may be binding through rough spots on the smooth rods. Usually printer kits don't give you the best quality stuff and those rods may not be perfectly the same diameter throughout its length or may be bent so slightly. Your best bet to test if this is the problem is to remove the belt from your bed and slide the bed back and forth and see if you can recreate the sound trying different speeds and pressure while doing so.\n\nY axis pulley/idler\n\nI think it's probably this because I have heard a similar noise and this part has failed on me. Usually these are either a plastic pulley, two bearings, two bearings inserted into a plastic pulley, or one larger bearing inserted into a plastic pulley. If your printer uses a bearing here, I recommend taking that part off and inspecting that bearing. I've had mine destroyed and the little balls went everywhere. You can test this by just trying to hear for it. Turn off the printer motors and move the bed manually, see if it sounds like it is coming from the idler.\n\nNozzle hitting print\n\nI doubt this but sometimes when prints are over extruded or curl up, the nozzle hits the print as it passes over so maybe your hearing individual collisions clicking. Again I really doubt this.\n\n\n\nWill this break your heated bed? Probably not. Will it cause problems in the future? If it is a fault with the bearings, most likely they will fail eventually but nothing else should get damaged in the process. But no worries, parts are cheap and readily available online or even at some hardware stores.\n\n\n\nNote : My mechanic taught me this when trying to figure out which bearing was making noise in a car. Take a long screw driver, preferably with a wooden handle, and place the tip on the part you think is making noise and place the handle to your ear. Usually this amplifies the noise when your making contact with the faulty part. Using this I was able to figure out which bearing was squeaking among the half dozen points where the belt would spin. Not sure how well this works for a printer and be careful not to have the mechanical moving parts(such as your printer bed) hit the screwdriver into your face.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4974,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user145959,2.528907649931287,3.6659291796757207,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Why some corners aren't sticked well?,\"Is this a leveling problem? or it's because the bed temperature isn't equal in everywhere? \n\nIf it's because of leveling, it means the distance between nozzle and bed in this not-sticked corners are lot and should be decrease? \n\nEDIT: material is ABS, and it's recommended temp is 190-230/80-100. But I use Cura high quality ABS default settings with 225/80. (But I had this problem with PLA with 190/60 degrees too)\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nEDIT2: I have a cooling fan for my Arduino/ramps board. But there was a wire between it's blades and it didn't work. today I saw it and tried to fix but it's plastic duct broke. So I tried to put it by hand as how it's air can cool both the Electronics boars and the bed(you can see my fan in one of the pics in left side). And I got a nice printing results for the same part printing:\n\n\n\n\n\nSo the cooling fan for printing part is very important to stick print to bed and I will print a duct for extra fan very soon!\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"For ABS, I use kapton tape, 90 degrees for the bed. You can also try acetone/ABS mixture (can be very thin). If you haven't got acetone, clean or new tape so there is no grease on it.\n\nYou can also try a higher nozzle temp for the first layer, sometimes that helps.\n\nYou can also try lowerimg the nozzle slightly, but it doesn't look bad. Increase flow rate to 110% probably wont do any harm - basically focus on the details before trying to print complicated parts.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4974,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user145959,2.528907649931287,3.6659291796757207,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Why some corners aren't sticked well?,\"Is this a leveling problem? or it's because the bed temperature isn't equal in everywhere? \n\nIf it's because of leveling, it means the distance between nozzle and bed in this not-sticked corners are lot and should be decrease? \n\nEDIT: material is ABS, and it's recommended temp is 190-230/80-100. But I use Cura high quality ABS default settings with 225/80. (But I had this problem with PLA with 190/60 degrees too)\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nEDIT2: I have a cooling fan for my Arduino/ramps board. But there was a wire between it's blades and it didn't work. today I saw it and tried to fix but it's plastic duct broke. So I tried to put it by hand as how it's air can cool both the Electronics boars and the bed(you can see my fan in one of the pics in left side). And I got a nice printing results for the same part printing:\n\n\n\n\n\nSo the cooling fan for printing part is very important to stick print to bed and I will print a duct for extra fan very soon!\n\",Valmond,\"You can clearly print but there are also some problems it seems.\n\nTo see if you're about okay when it comes to leveling, I recommend to activate the 'skirt' in your slicer soft. Slic3r has it and I think most others too, it just makes the printer do a big one-layer all-around 'perimeter' around what is going to be printed before starting. You'll see quickly if there is not enough or too much space between the bed and the nozzle. You might catch other problems too (I love it because when the hotend drips a bit when leveling it get's smeared out far away from where the print is going to happen). \n\nYour print looks like it is not optimal (overextrusion? no print-cooling? ...) so start with slowing down, first layer 20-25mm/s (Look at it when it's printed, it's very telling!). Then for the following ones, don't go over 40-50mm/s for starters.\n\nLast but not least, you are printing ABS (but you said you had the problem with PLA too, hence my post), I have never printed ABS but for what I have read, you'll need a heatbed and a heated chamber(enclosed printer) to not have this kind of problems.\n\nBut for PLA especially; If you have a heat bed, don't put on too much heat when printing, I went from 60°C to 50°C, first layer, 30° then, and my prints now stick like they are melded onto my plate instead of skidding around.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4987,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user145959,-1.726248027126092,3.932574380095597,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,I am looking for STL files of my Prusa i3 printer?,\"This is my 3D-printer, and I am looking for it's .stl parts to print. Also I don't know which kind of Prusa is it?\n\n\n\n\n\",Athanasios Karagiannis,\"I would try Googling your specific make of the i3. For example if you have a Geeetech Prusa i3. I would type in Google \"\"Geeetech prusa i3 stl parts\"\" and I'm sure you should fine plenty of things.\n\nIf that is unsuccessfull. I guess try this one. It looks similar but it lacks that hole on the bottom middle to the right of the motor holes. So if its not important, I would look at this. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1103976. Might be a good idea to replace the entire X axis system with a new printed one to make sure it all fits and works.\n\n@Tom van der Zanden is correct that without your specific version it is impossible to find the same part since small variations such as the distance between the two X axis smooth rods may differ between parts. While it is almost standard for the i3 design, you will find minor changes between variations.\n\nI would also try scrolling through here. https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/prusa-i3/things\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5009,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user145959,1.0891412423578797,2.945606960725559,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,I am looking for laser cut cads for my prusa i3?,\"I have this prusa i3 printer(I don't know what model is it):\n\n\n\nMy bed part is broken. And I am looking for the cads to laser cut them! this is my bed pic:\n\n\n\",user145959,\"This is not exactly my part, but the holes place are true. I think if someone measures the bed dimensions( for me it's 21.9mm * 21.9mm) and orders a plate in this size, he can also make holes later with drill(I did it before for another part of my plexi to attach the power supply).\n\nhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1310778\n\n\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n5027,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user145959,2.528907649931287,4.903376171676668,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.306096197889172,I am looking for the aluminum profile parts specs for this prusa i3 printer?,\"I have seen some photos of aluminum based Prusa i3 printers, and I like to know the numbers and the specs of the profiles? Also I want to know Is the first pic strong enough for reliable printer or I must use the second(respect to profiles I mean).\n\n\n\n\n\",Mick,\"They are 2020 (20mm x 20mm) T-slot extrusions. They should not be confused with V-slot extrusions, which are similar to T-slot, but have a 45-degree slot profile to accommodate V-slot wheels.\n\nIf you are contemplating a new build, I would recommend using V-slot. Note that T-slot and V-slot come in a number of sizes (in multiples of 20mm). A 2040 profile is 20mm x 40mm, and will have two slots on the wider sides. Other sizes are available, such as 2060, 2080, 4040, and even C-shaped profiles.\n\nYou may want to use 2040 profiles for greater rigidity, especially if you are contemplating a large build volume.\n\nNote that there are imperial as well as metric T-slot profiles. RepRap uses metric profiles.\n\nReRap Wiki: T-slot\n\nOpenBuilds: V-slot\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5027,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user145959,2.528907649931287,4.903376171676668,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.306096197889172,I am looking for the aluminum profile parts specs for this prusa i3 printer?,\"I have seen some photos of aluminum based Prusa i3 printers, and I like to know the numbers and the specs of the profiles? Also I want to know Is the first pic strong enough for reliable printer or I must use the second(respect to profiles I mean).\n\n\n\n\n\",Edoctoor,\"The specs for 2020 aluminum profile is here.\nhttps://8020.net/20-2020-black-fb.html\nThis site even has the cad profile files for download.\n\nI have noticed that some people have suggested using V-Slot from\nopen builds... however, V-Slot has a V for the V groove wheels which this design is not using so in my opinion there is absolutely no reason to pay a lot more for V-Slot when your not even using V groove wheels.\n\nI have also noticed that some people have suggested using 2040 T-Slot and the\nlink above has a search and you can find the profile for 2040 T-Slot.\nI agree that T-Slot could be better; however, I would build first\nwith 2020 T-Slot to see for yourself and then report your findings after\nupgrading to 2040 T-Slot. My guess is that you will find that 2020 T-Slot is enough if you use the recommend corner brackets... if your planning on using 3D printed corner brackets... then it might be necessary to use 2040 T-Slot.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5033,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user145959,1.726248027126092,4.149920489645256,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.306096197889172,My 3D printing part starts to bending after about 1 cm height and blue tape separates from bed,\"I use a Prusa i3, and this is ABS printed part with 225/90°C. Why did this happen?\n\n\n\n\n\n\nI tried to print this part again with new settings on Slic3r (I used Cura for previous print), but I got the same result. I found that the problem is because the model starts to bend after about 1 cm height. Also the blue tape starts to separate from the bed.\n\nI don't use the fan for printing part (although the MK8 extruder's fan works all the time), and the temperature for the new part was (225/85°C first layer and 220/80°C for other layers). Also I must say that the adhesion of the model sticks to the bed is very good and strong, but it is bent! \n\n\n\n\",cmm,\"My best results with ABS have been with a hot bed (100 degrees C), and using the \"\"acetone/ABS slurry\"\" to stick the print to the bed.\n\nI was not able to get ABS to stick well enough to blue tape at low bed temperatures, and at high bed temperatures the blue tape would sometimes separate from the bed.\n\nThe ABS slurry is applied to the cold bed, and gives you an ABS film intimately attached to the bed. It will be a thick enough film to carry the color, so it is best to make the slurry with the same color as you will be printing with.\nThere is no absolute ration of acetone to ABS that should be used for the mixture. In service, the acetone evaporates. A thicker slurry will leave a thicker coating.\n\nI use flux brushes (sometimes called acid brushes) to apply the slurry, although one can also use a watercolor brush, or just pour a small puddle on a bed if it is level enough to not run off the edge.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5033,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user145959,1.726248027126092,4.149920489645256,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.306096197889172,My 3D printing part starts to bending after about 1 cm height and blue tape separates from bed,\"I use a Prusa i3, and this is ABS printed part with 225/90°C. Why did this happen?\n\n\n\n\n\n\nI tried to print this part again with new settings on Slic3r (I used Cura for previous print), but I got the same result. I found that the problem is because the model starts to bend after about 1 cm height. Also the blue tape starts to separate from the bed.\n\nI don't use the fan for printing part (although the MK8 extruder's fan works all the time), and the temperature for the new part was (225/85°C first layer and 220/80°C for other layers). Also I must say that the adhesion of the model sticks to the bed is very good and strong, but it is bent! \n\n\n\n\",TECTEC3 Studios,\"Try putting your printer into a heated chamber, and when the print is finished, slowly decrease the temperature of the chamber. I would also recommend using putting something like buildtak or printbite onto your buildplate. If you are not able to do that I would recommend putting some purple gluestick onto the bed, or a few spritz of hairspray should do the trick.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4953,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kaleb Iahn Reginaldo,1.726248027126092,3.8056075277672616,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How to increase the printing quality when using abs (slicer config)?,\"I have checked several different sites giving different configurations for the slicer. Let's say that the average extruder temperature is 230°C. I know that the complexity of the object matters a lot for the printing quality. What I am concerning is the deposition rate (mm/min), and, the infill type (e.g. honeycomb, rectangular). Which impact the inner infill has in the printing quality? Due to time reasons maximal allowed infill is 50%.\n\nI have a Geetech Prusa REpRap I3.\n\nThanks for you help guys!!\n\",LWS-Mo,\"maybe this will help you out...\n\nIam using a Ultimaker 2+, only with ABS filament, and the software Cura. Cura is a good software but you cannot edit every option like in other slicers, Iam just using the default ABS profile. \n\nMost of the times Iam printing in 0.2mm quality, speed varies, smaller objects get printed slower. My max speed when printing is 40mm/s.\n\nThe Buildplate heats up to 90°, I tend to increase the heat to 98° - 100°.\nThe more I increase that the lesser warping I will get. But Iam using bluetape also, so warping is no big issue anyway.\nThe noozle should be heated to 260°, thats the cura default. \n\nOn very small or thin parts I activate the fan immediatly, on big parts Iam not using the fan. I also print the small parts really slow. \n\nI had no problems regarding the outer-walls and the infill (no cave building or stuff like that), but this is maybe dependent on the outer-wall-thickness. I mostly use a wall-thickness of over 1mm. Iam always using rectangular pattern, and mostly an infill under 30%. \n\nI get good quality prints, and nearly no warping because of the bluetape. \n\nOtherwise I didnt change any options in Cura, the flow rate is default. \n\n\n\nSorry for the late edit, here are my default cura settings:\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4956,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,A.C.,2.528907649931287,3.309844377502676,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Cement or another solid pore filler suitable for ABS?,\"I want to paint my ABS parts. But I foresee a problem that will arise from 0.16mm layer - those layers will be perfectly visible, even with primer. Sanding them wouldn't be a good idea, because walls are just 0.8-1mm thick, and probably acetone bath isn't right thing too. I want to use some sort of cement or paste, and cover parts with it using some paint scraper or knife before painting. Do cements suitable for this task exist? Would they stick to ABS?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Some quick research shows me that ABS can be slightly affected by the composition of polyester resin. Automotive body repair filler, commonly called Bondo (brand name) is mostly polyester resin. I've found in my reading that some consider the \"\"slightly affected\"\" aspect to mean that it adheres well, others believe that the material will weaken and damage the ABS.\n\nYou could, of course, purchase some body filler and perform tests. It sands well and would certainly remove the layer lines.\n\nIf you determine that such material is not a good solution or would rather not take the gamble or perform the tests, you have an option with another product called microballoons or microspheres. It is a product that has an accurate description. The material is hollow spheres of glass of such tiny dimensions that they will blow away if you breathe on them.\n\nThe primary purpose of this product is to fill gaps, create fillets and similar structures without adding appreciable weight. One would use them with thin epoxy resin and mix to desired consistency. Some descriptions include \"\"mayonnaise or peanut butter\"\" depending on the application.\n\nWith both of these products, easily sanded is also in the description, although your choice of epoxy will also contribute to that aspect. Because the microballoons are mostly air, they do sand quite cleanly when mixed to heavy or thick consistency.\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4956,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,A.C.,2.528907649931287,3.309844377502676,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Cement or another solid pore filler suitable for ABS?,\"I want to paint my ABS parts. But I foresee a problem that will arise from 0.16mm layer - those layers will be perfectly visible, even with primer. Sanding them wouldn't be a good idea, because walls are just 0.8-1mm thick, and probably acetone bath isn't right thing too. I want to use some sort of cement or paste, and cover parts with it using some paint scraper or knife before painting. Do cements suitable for this task exist? Would they stick to ABS?\n\",ZuOverture,\"Consider these moments:\n\n\nYou can sand primer coating. Every layer adds about 0.1-0.2mm, and somewhat levels the surface by itself because surface tension forces primer to fill cavities more. Primers can be sanded after thorough drying and are guaranteed to stick to plastic if applicable for that sort of plastic. Though, with transparent primers it's hard to tell whether your surface is smooth even after sanding.\nAcetone vapor won't bend thin walls if applied shortly, but will make surface sticky. If you apply powder coats (say, cement) right after acetone vapor treatment, then it will create really good base for paint, primer, or basically any coating, because the powder will be embedded into surface. Clear ABS surface is quite tricky to paint, but if you contaminate it a bit, you might end up with better results.\n\n\nHope this helps.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n4959,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Juan Pablo Rodas Martínez,3.452496054252184,4.357071573034805,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.551027839747059,Printing with Polycarbonate keeps warping,\"I'm trying to print a large piece with polycarbonate but it keeps warping, I'm using a Taz 5 printer and setting 290 C in the extruder and 145 C in the heating bed. \n\nOther setting I have are:\n\n\nprinting speed: 20 mm/s\nlayer height: 2.5mm\ninfil: 20%\nbrim: 15mm\n\n\nCan anyone tell me any tips or suggestions to avoid warping?\n\",Athanasios Karagiannis,\"I would take a look here and here.\nLiterally the first two results of Google.\n\nTo summarize what they say,\n\nYou need good bed adhesion to keep the first layer from warping near the edges like you will get normally with ABS or PC(Polycarbonate). Some use hairspray or gluestick. I manage myself with buildtak surface. I would stay away from blue painters tape. Your looking for something very sticky. This of course makes it a nightmare to get the part off the bed but well worth the trouble if it keeps your print on the bed and flat.\n\nMake sure the part receives adequate heat. Like someone wrote in the comments, a enclosure works best to keep the temperature of the entire print warm instead of just the few layers closest to the bed.\n\nMore perimeter layers works very well by providing more structural strength to try and combat the warping. I've stumbled upon this solution when I had trouble with ABS.\n\nLastly, first layer is always the most important part of any print. You want to make sure it is as level as possible and a good tip is to raise your bed just so slightly than usual so the first layer is jammed hard against the bed. This provides better surface area. Just be careful not to clog your printhead cause if you constrict the flow out of the nozzle too much, you'll might end up with plastic trying to flow upwards or maybe grind the filament with the extruder gear.\n\",0.0,0.0\n4959,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Juan Pablo Rodas Martínez,3.452496054252184,4.357071573034805,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.551027839747059,Printing with Polycarbonate keeps warping,\"I'm trying to print a large piece with polycarbonate but it keeps warping, I'm using a Taz 5 printer and setting 290 C in the extruder and 145 C in the heating bed. \n\nOther setting I have are:\n\n\nprinting speed: 20 mm/s\nlayer height: 2.5mm\ninfil: 20%\nbrim: 15mm\n\n\nCan anyone tell me any tips or suggestions to avoid warping?\n\",mlp,\"Adjusting the design may also be able to help limit the amount of warping you get.\n\nOne of the major causes of warping is upper layers contracting while cooling when laid down over now-cool(er) lower layers which no longer contract so much but are still thin enough to flex when subject to tension along their upper edge. Insertion of strategically placed gaps in upper layers can reduce the tension such layers are able to apply.\n\nI was printing some long thin beams in ABS. I inserted horizontal-axis holes along the beams (making them look a bit like LEGO Technic beams rather than solid pieces). It did the job for me.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4970,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Juan Pablo Rodas Martínez,2.8153892694839717,3.8339662240819474,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,FEA in 3d printed solids,\"I would like to get a pretty accurate method to do finite element analysis (FEA) on my 3d designs considering the infill. I use Autodesk Inventor to design parts but the FEA can only be applied to a solid body (100% infill). Does anyone know software that can convert a 3d design to another but considering the infill so I can use FEA more accurately?\n\",scruss,\"In Tymrak, B. M., M. Kreiger, and Joshua M. Pearce. \"\"Mechanical properties of components fabricated with open-source 3-D printers under realistic environmental conditions.\"\" Materials & Design 58 (2014): 242-246., the authors suggest that one of the strongest factors influencing simple tensile strength of a 3D printed part was the ratio of its measured mass compared to its expected mass calculated by the slicer. Given that many printers under-extrude (especially when used with manufacturer's calibration settings) the accuracy of your model may be moot if your model isn't as solid as you'd expect it to be. The authors also suggest that the presence of fillers and pigments affected overall part strength.\n\nThe researchers at the not-for-profit Nia Technologies develop technologies for 3D-printed prostheses. They have some published research, but I'm not aware if it includes their FEA technique or tools. From an informal discussion with one of their staff, it seems that material variability and even environmental conditions while printing have measurable effects on final strength.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4970,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Juan Pablo Rodas Martínez,2.8153892694839717,3.8339662240819474,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,FEA in 3d printed solids,\"I would like to get a pretty accurate method to do finite element analysis (FEA) on my 3d designs considering the infill. I use Autodesk Inventor to design parts but the FEA can only be applied to a solid body (100% infill). Does anyone know software that can convert a 3d design to another but considering the infill so I can use FEA more accurately?\n\",Axel Fernandes,\"Rhino will let you create a custom lattice structure inside the solid object, this can in turn be used to create infill using grasshopper (an inbuilt scripting tool):\n\n\ncreate a standard cell size and apply the lattice,\nconvert the whole thing to solid,\nreimport into inventor\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4960,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Generx,2.528907649931287,3.4776007666316793,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,What is this called and where can I buy a replacement?,\"In the image, there is an object circled in blue on the anet a8 printer that I need to buy a replacement of, however, I can not find it online, please help.\n\",ZuOverture,\"This is part of filament drive. Anets do not sell it separately, only as a part of extruder assembly, but other manufacturers may make incompatible parts: of different size (not fitting into bracket), filament channel position, etc.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4960,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Generx,2.528907649931287,3.4776007666316793,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,What is this called and where can I buy a replacement?,\"In the image, there is an object circled in blue on the anet a8 printer that I need to buy a replacement of, however, I can not find it online, please help.\n\",Kaleb Iahn Reginaldo,\"Like @ZuOverture said the name of this component is the filament drive. Most of the manufactures sell the whole extrusion device already assembled, to avoid mismatches between the components of the extrusion device. If your device is somehow damaged, and without possibilities to be used in the printer the easiest solution would be to buy a new extrusion device. If financially is unfeasible for you, you may have the option to generate the 3D model of this piece and share the file to someone who could print this component for you. For instance take a look at this company:\n\nhttps://www.sculpteo.com/en/\n\nIf you need more info, do not hesitate to ask!\nCheers.\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n4975,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,legomolina,2.528907649931287,3.8364869557858974,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,\"Printing starts well but then it breaks down, Anet A8\",\"I'm printing a cylindrical piece but at any moment it breaks down. I tried it two times, both have break down in different place. I'm using a 1.75 mm PLA filament in my Anet A8. I'm using Cura 2.6.2 to export to a .gcode file.\n\nThis is the original model: \n\n\n\nAnd this is the result:\n\n\n\nHere is the G-code file.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"The first thought that pops into my mind is insufficient cooling. Consider to either slow down the nozzle speed or to construct a toss-away model nearby. I prefer the toss-away or duplicate model method. It allows the material printed on the first column to cool more effectively while the material on the second column is being deposited. \n\nIf the problem persists, add a third column or slow the print speed about 10 mm / second\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n4975,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,legomolina,2.528907649931287,3.8364869557858974,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,\"Printing starts well but then it breaks down, Anet A8\",\"I'm printing a cylindrical piece but at any moment it breaks down. I tried it two times, both have break down in different place. I'm using a 1.75 mm PLA filament in my Anet A8. I'm using Cura 2.6.2 to export to a .gcode file.\n\nThis is the original model: \n\n\n\nAnd this is the result:\n\n\n\nHere is the G-code file.\n\",Shwans,\"The answer by fred_dot_u is fine for small prints with relative low cost or batch producing, where a single part is needed several times. But if you print something big or unique it's not cost effective. Slowing down the complete print is also not very time efficient. \n\nIn Cura there an option called Mininum layer time, which addresses this problem:\n\nCooling -> Minimum Layer Time / Minimum Speed\n\n\nThis means that it will only slow down when the print distance for a particular layer is short. Giving the material some extra time to harden. Other layers will be printed at normal speed. Increased print time will be limited this way. \n\nFor your situation I would advise you to increase the part cooling, if possible, in conjunction with configuring the Minimum Layer Time option mentioned above.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n4980,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Valmond,2.1782824847157594,6.427787820636218,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,How do you assure that you print layers that bond correctly?,\"I'm fairly new to 3D printing but I'm getting the steam up and I chug out pieces without much hassle. One thing though is that I have the impression that sometimes, parts are easily broken, and I suspect bad adhesion between layers.\n\nI'm printing eSun PLA at 208 °C (212 °C first layer), bed at 50 °C first layer then 30 °C.\n\nWhen I print the Benchy boat, it feels extremely sturdy (even the small chimney is unbreakable by hand), but if I make, say, a 50 mm diameter cylinder with 4 mm wall thickness, It breaks fairly easy along some layer. I don't see any specific error, it \"\"looks\"\" okay.\n\nSo my question is:\n\nHow do you assure that you print layers that bond enough?\n\n[Edit] I already know that might actually cause bad bonding (low heat, underextrusion, ...) but I'm looking for a way to see when it happens.\n\nHere is an image from when I stopped mid print (you can see the little ooze string just at the start at the crack) for checking dimensions. The next layer didn't bond well because, I guess, the already printed part had cooled down when I un-paused the print (say 1 minute later) or maybe the z-axis went off a bit when I touched the build plate.\n\n\n\nIs the only way of knowing layers bonded correctly, to try to break the part apart?\n\",Athanasios Karagiannis,\"I think the reason why the large cylinder is breaking much easier than the smokestack would is because of leverage. If you print the same cylinder at a much smaller scale it might be more difficult to break it. Think of taking a wooden stick, if you try to snap it by holding both hands near the center, it would be difficult but if you push on the very ends, the leverage will make it easier to snap. I have the tug boat on my desk right now and I was unable to snap it, instead I broke the cabin section just right above the steering wheel.\n\nNow to answer your question. One of the faults in larger prints having weak layer adhesion could be a number of things. I think a common fault is under extrusion. If the nozzle has a high enough gap from the previous layer and it extrudes just enough filament to touch the layer but not necessarily push it snug, it could be a weak bond. This is like tape, usually when you want to make sure it will stay stuck, you press hard and rub it in. So I imagine filament shouldn't loosely flow onto layers but instead be pressed hard against the previous layers. Visually this is hard to judge but I noticed getting my first layer very close to the print bed makes every other layer stick very stronger on the previous one. You get a small skirt on the first layer but it does tend to give me a stronger bond between layers. You can easily slice off the skirt with a blade. Increasing the extrusion multiplier could give the same affect without needing to adjust bed height/leveling, but this can end up giving you some nasty walls. \n\nAnother thing I recommend is to check your Z-axis. This is difficult to measure and best to find out by print quality on tall structures. On my first printer I had the issue where my threaded Z-rods would bind and cause one of the two rods to get a slight bit ahead. This caused a layer split focused on the side opposite of the faulty rod. This made many prints very prone to breaking at that point. I had to rebuild my Z-axis assembly to correct this.\n\nPrint temperature can help, try raising it up by 5 to see if this improves the bonding.\n\nLastly, try another filament. Filament tends to go bad due to moisture exposure, that is why usually you receive it airtight with a small bag of silica to absorb moisture. If I use filament which has been sitting out for months, just squeezing my part separates the layers in almost a slinky kind of way. \n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n4980,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Valmond,2.1782824847157594,6.427787820636218,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,How do you assure that you print layers that bond correctly?,\"I'm fairly new to 3D printing but I'm getting the steam up and I chug out pieces without much hassle. One thing though is that I have the impression that sometimes, parts are easily broken, and I suspect bad adhesion between layers.\n\nI'm printing eSun PLA at 208 °C (212 °C first layer), bed at 50 °C first layer then 30 °C.\n\nWhen I print the Benchy boat, it feels extremely sturdy (even the small chimney is unbreakable by hand), but if I make, say, a 50 mm diameter cylinder with 4 mm wall thickness, It breaks fairly easy along some layer. I don't see any specific error, it \"\"looks\"\" okay.\n\nSo my question is:\n\nHow do you assure that you print layers that bond enough?\n\n[Edit] I already know that might actually cause bad bonding (low heat, underextrusion, ...) but I'm looking for a way to see when it happens.\n\nHere is an image from when I stopped mid print (you can see the little ooze string just at the start at the crack) for checking dimensions. The next layer didn't bond well because, I guess, the already printed part had cooled down when I un-paused the print (say 1 minute later) or maybe the z-axis went off a bit when I touched the build plate.\n\n\n\nIs the only way of knowing layers bonded correctly, to try to break the part apart?\n\",R..,\"(Note: I realize this question is old, but I came across it looking for information on related topics and it didn't seem to have any sufficiently good answers yet.)\n\nTo me, this looks exactly like what I'd expect printing with layers almost as thick as the nozzle diameter and insufficient hotend temperature or excessive speed. I've had problems like this at sizes 0.3 to 1/3 mm using an 0.4 mm nozzle even at my usual PLA temperature of 210, and can imagine it would be much worse at lower temperatures. If you didn't see the problem on benchy with a smaller cylinder, it's probably either because acceleration limits (which will be dominant on small details) prevented reaching high speeds, or (less likely in my opinion) because the deposited material had not had as much time to cool before the next layer was reached.\n\nIn order for layers to bond the newly deposited material needs to be pressed against the material already present, while melted, with sufficient heat transferred into the already-deposited material to make it amenable to bonding (naively I would guess this means it needs to reach around the glass transition temp, but that may be wrong). With layer thickness near the nozzle diameter, the nozzle will be putting less pressure on the existing material, making this harder. Also, if there has been underextrusion anywhere in the supporting wall below, the already-deposited material can simply compress downward into the gaps when new material is extruded against it, rather than them getting pressed together.\n\nFor 0.3 mm layers, I'd go with the highest temperature the filament manufacturer rates it for, or even slightly higher if you have reason to believe the material is okay at higher temperatures. Some people say lowering the fan speed or turning it off is an option, but I've had really bad results with precision and/or stringing whenever I try that.\n\nSignificantly lowering the print speed is also an option. That will greatly reduce the chance of underextrusion, and results in more heat transfer from the nozzle into already-deposited material. However lowering the speed generally defeats the purpose of 0.3 mm layers; you could instead just drop down to 0.25 mm or 0.2 mm and get much better quality at the same total print time.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5001,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Valmond,2.8153892694839717,5.217117365775114,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,What type of fire alarm/smoke alarm should my printer have?,\"I know you should, like an infant, never leave your printer without surveillance.\n\nBut sometimes we all do, trusting our double thermistors and heat runaway configurations. But electronics fry and who says there is no danger even after the print job has finished and it's cooling down, still hooked up?\n\nI have searched but smoke/fire detectors come in a wide range of varieties: \n\nThey can be battery powered or hardwired, they detect different things: carbon monoxide, heat, smoke..., they thus also have different detectors like photoelectric sensors, ionization sensors or both. We also print with different materials...\n\nSo what's the best safeguard for my 2 year old (CoreXY ^^)?\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"According to http://www.fireservice.co.uk/safety/smoke-alarms/ you have these two choices:\n\n\n Ionisation: These are the cheapest and cost very little to purchase.\n They are very sensitive to small particles of smoke produced by fast\n flaming fires, such as paper and wood, and will detect this type of\n fire before the smoke gets too thick. They are marginally less\n sensitive to slow burning and smouldering fires which give off larger\n quantities of smoke before flaming occurs. They can also be too\n over-sensitive near kitchens.\n \n Optical: These are more expensive but more effective at detecting\n larger particles of smoke produced by slow-burning fires, such as\n smouldering foam-filled upholstery and overheated PVC wiring. They are\n marginally less sensitive to fast flaming fires. Optical alarms can be\n installed near (not in) kitchens, as they are less likely than\n ionisation alarms to go off when toast is burned.\n\n\nAlthough 'overheated PVC' might tend to point to the optical sensor being best, any fault on a printer is likely to be quite different to a domestic installation fault (I think you're less likely to detect the early warning from a damaged connector since the fault will be physically small).\n\nI have an ionisation sensor next to/above the printer, and the only time I had a false-alarm was when I temporarily placed it on the desk.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5001,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Valmond,2.8153892694839717,5.217117365775114,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,What type of fire alarm/smoke alarm should my printer have?,\"I know you should, like an infant, never leave your printer without surveillance.\n\nBut sometimes we all do, trusting our double thermistors and heat runaway configurations. But electronics fry and who says there is no danger even after the print job has finished and it's cooling down, still hooked up?\n\nI have searched but smoke/fire detectors come in a wide range of varieties: \n\nThey can be battery powered or hardwired, they detect different things: carbon monoxide, heat, smoke..., they thus also have different detectors like photoelectric sensors, ionization sensors or both. We also print with different materials...\n\nSo what's the best safeguard for my 2 year old (CoreXY ^^)?\n\",YetAnotherRandomUser,\"Since some prints can take literally days, I would use a combination of techniques if you're worried about a fire. According to The Internets, firefighters are willing to inspect your stuff to see if they pose fire hazards. You could ask your local firefighters what they think of your risk with yoru 3D printer.\n\nKeep your workplace free of dangers\n\nDon't keep flammables, explosives, or similar stuff near your printer. If it does catch fire, these kinds of things will make it worse. There are plenty of valid 3D printer supplies that fall in this category: alcohol, alcohol pads, acetone, acetone pads, various glues, various cleaners, hairspray, etc.\n\nPeriodically inspect the high amperage parts of the system\n\nInspect crimps, but splices, solder joints, relays, etc for burn marks, loose connections, or other problems. Solve the problems before they catch fire.\n\nAlarm\n\nOne or more smoke alarms should detect a fire. However, they may give false positives for ABS, because ABS gives off that burning plastic smell. I would experiment with the super-cheap ones and one or two more expensive models to see what kinds of false positives you get. You'll probably want to put at least one of them directly above the printer. If your printer is enclosed, put a sensor in the enclosed area.\n\nI think smoke alarms should be sufficient, but I'm not an expert (or even hobbyist) on fire alarms. I have not come across any information that states Carbon Monoxide or Radon are a worries with 3D printers. Area-affect heat sensors may give many false alarms because of how hot printer stuff gets. However, you could use contact heat sensors for parts that should not get too hot and monitor them with a microcontroller or Raspberry Pi. Reading this article, it seems you may want some ionization sensors for the printer, and not photoelectric. My WAG (link) is that the plastic (or electronics) would smolder long before catching fire, so you want sensors that would detect the smoldering.\n\nCamera\n\nOctoPrint/OctoPi make it easy to use a webcam to monitor your printer. However, if your printer is on fire and you're remote, it may or may not be able to shut the printer down. Even if successful, you still have a fire to deal with.\n\nFire extinguisher\n\nYou should have a fire extinguisher available to someone to put out your printer should it catch fire. Printers will need at least an extuingsher of Class C rating, and since we're working with plastics, you probably want Class B as well. Most of the fire extinguishers you can find in consumer stores are going to be ABC rated, and powder based. The powder will make a mess and wreak havoc on electronics. CO2 or Halon will not themselves damage the electronics, but are substantially more expensive than their powder based brethren. For example, I get 5lb Fire Extinguishers for ~$30 at Costco, but an equivalent in CO2 would be several hundred.\n\nAutomatic suppression system\n\nAs a maker, you could build a reactionary fire suppression system. I imagine it would be cost prohibitive to hire someone to do it for you. Basically, you would use the alarms or special sensors to activate one or more fire extinguishers. You should over-engineer this so that your fire suppression system completely overwhelms any fire that occurs. According to The Internets, firefighters are willing to inspect your stuff to see if they pose fire hazards. You could ask your local firefighters what they think of your risk and suppression system.\n\nFirefighting Robot\n\nYou could build a robot to detect fires about put them out, as sort of an advanced automatic suppression system. Something like Tony Stark's robot, or something emulating what is actually in service (US Navy (CNN), Australia tracked firefighter).\n\n\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5372,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Valmond,3.767809650974757,4.595859871627149,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,What is causing 'droplets' on first layer?,\"I recently changed filament and for starters it worked perfectly well, but quickly I got some problems with my first layer. It's like droplets are forming on the surface (finished item + 3 undersides):\n\n\n\nThe final part is (for me) okay but I'd like to get rid of those pesky 'drops'.\n\nAs the defect is quite stable and quite recognizable and it happens all the time, I bet somebody more experienced than me knows what's going on!\n\nInfo:\n\nI'm using a 1 week old eSun filament, a E3D V6 Hotend 1.75mm on my scratch CoreXY printer, short Bowden direct drive, Repetier, Marlin, Linear advance (M900 K60 so quite low).\n\nThe print is done using a 0.4mm diameter nozzle at 0.2mm height at:\n\n50°C(122°F) heat-bed and 214°C(417°C) hot-end for first layer, then lower a bit to\n\n40°C(104°F) heat-bed and 211°C(412°F) hot-end.\n\nI use Blue-painter tape.\n\nWorked perfectly well with my black eSun and my white eSun.\n\nWhat's my problem?\n\nThank you all!\n\n[Edit]\n\nTried about everything (more temp, less temp, fan on item, more / less bed temp, underextrude, moving around z delta, removing linear advance, radically lowering speed) but the only thing that worked about okay (problem was quite reduced but didn't go away totally) was to bump up the layer thickness to 0.3mm\n\n[Edit 2] Finally it seems it was, as it usually is, a conjuncture of several problems that I will list here:\n\n\nThe bed was not perfectly flat\nThe heatbed moved/bended when going from a hot first layer to a colder second (and on) layer\nMaybe the speed was a bit high for the first layer (25mm/s)\n\n\nI fixed this by installing a borosilicate glass bed on top of the heat bed which ensures a perfect flatness.\n\nI had to change my inductive sensor to an 8mm one (insteéad of the 4mm I had previously added) to make this function. I think it is not as good as it can be as it detects the heatbed under the glass (which is not perfectly flat), but it's enough for now. I'm thinking about how to make the glass conductive, like aluminium or something, but that's for another day/post.\n\nI also put blue tape on the glass because the first layer was tricky. This might be because the inductive sensor doesn't do its job that well (see above).\n\nHeatbed temperature for first layer: 70°C\n\nExtruder temperature anywhere from 190°C to 220°C works fine, that was not the problem, or it is no longer a problem.\n\nI also lowered the first layer speed to 20mm/s because the first layer didn't stick easily directly onto the glass, with blue painters tape it sticks even too much so I'll try higher speeds. It did mitigate problems though so it might be a path to try if you run into similar problems.\n\nAnd now it seems that it works even amazingly well, I just have to print something really big to see!\n\n---------------Old:\n\nMoving z up made spaghetti :-) and different temperatures made quite extreme warping:\n\n\n\n\",Valmond,\"First of all, thanks for all the help, it really is a nice community!\n\nBut none of them actually helped and I finally find out what to actually do to fix the problem so here it goes:\n\n\nExtruder temperature didn't change anything (made it worse under 190°C/374°F)\nSpeed didn't change anything (tried as low as 10mm/s)\nZ tuning didn't change anything\nUsing 0.3mm layers instead of 0.2mm made it slightly better but still completely unusable\n\n\nSo, what did the trick?\n\nI figured that it was extreme warping, so heating up the heatbed to 80°C/176°F and the first layer comes down really good, for the rest of the print I use normal temperatures and it works okay. For overhangs I bump some degrees and point a small squirrel cage fan on the overhang.\n\nI think the filament is damaged or that this particular color might be a bit different than other colors, but well, now it works!\n\n[Edit] From a recent firmware upgrade the heatbed PID was disabled, re-enabling it really made it simpler too.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5372,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Valmond,3.767809650974757,4.595859871627149,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,What is causing 'droplets' on first layer?,\"I recently changed filament and for starters it worked perfectly well, but quickly I got some problems with my first layer. It's like droplets are forming on the surface (finished item + 3 undersides):\n\n\n\nThe final part is (for me) okay but I'd like to get rid of those pesky 'drops'.\n\nAs the defect is quite stable and quite recognizable and it happens all the time, I bet somebody more experienced than me knows what's going on!\n\nInfo:\n\nI'm using a 1 week old eSun filament, a E3D V6 Hotend 1.75mm on my scratch CoreXY printer, short Bowden direct drive, Repetier, Marlin, Linear advance (M900 K60 so quite low).\n\nThe print is done using a 0.4mm diameter nozzle at 0.2mm height at:\n\n50°C(122°F) heat-bed and 214°C(417°C) hot-end for first layer, then lower a bit to\n\n40°C(104°F) heat-bed and 211°C(412°F) hot-end.\n\nI use Blue-painter tape.\n\nWorked perfectly well with my black eSun and my white eSun.\n\nWhat's my problem?\n\nThank you all!\n\n[Edit]\n\nTried about everything (more temp, less temp, fan on item, more / less bed temp, underextrude, moving around z delta, removing linear advance, radically lowering speed) but the only thing that worked about okay (problem was quite reduced but didn't go away totally) was to bump up the layer thickness to 0.3mm\n\n[Edit 2] Finally it seems it was, as it usually is, a conjuncture of several problems that I will list here:\n\n\nThe bed was not perfectly flat\nThe heatbed moved/bended when going from a hot first layer to a colder second (and on) layer\nMaybe the speed was a bit high for the first layer (25mm/s)\n\n\nI fixed this by installing a borosilicate glass bed on top of the heat bed which ensures a perfect flatness.\n\nI had to change my inductive sensor to an 8mm one (insteéad of the 4mm I had previously added) to make this function. I think it is not as good as it can be as it detects the heatbed under the glass (which is not perfectly flat), but it's enough for now. I'm thinking about how to make the glass conductive, like aluminium or something, but that's for another day/post.\n\nI also put blue tape on the glass because the first layer was tricky. This might be because the inductive sensor doesn't do its job that well (see above).\n\nHeatbed temperature for first layer: 70°C\n\nExtruder temperature anywhere from 190°C to 220°C works fine, that was not the problem, or it is no longer a problem.\n\nI also lowered the first layer speed to 20mm/s because the first layer didn't stick easily directly onto the glass, with blue painters tape it sticks even too much so I'll try higher speeds. It did mitigate problems though so it might be a path to try if you run into similar problems.\n\nAnd now it seems that it works even amazingly well, I just have to print something really big to see!\n\n---------------Old:\n\nMoving z up made spaghetti :-) and different temperatures made quite extreme warping:\n\n\n\n\",mac,\"Mine is more of an educated guess than a definitive diagnosis, but it looks to me like if your printer may be overextruding (it's difficult to say with certainty with this particular picture, but your top layers too do not look as good as they should).\n\nI wonder if you have calibrated your extrusion for this particular spool of filament? This is something that you should do for each and every new spool of filament, regardless of whether you have already used the same brand and material, as different batches and colours may differ slightly in diameter or hardness, and both factors can lead to a different overall flow out of your nozzle (I just checked eSun website, and they state \"\"Accuracy:1.7-1.8mm\"\", and 6% variance is quite a lot).\n\nPossibly unrelated, but 211+°C is also quite on the high end of the correct temperature for printing PLA (if that is what you are using). Still in the range recommended by the manufacturer - so it should be ok - but you may wish to try bringing it down a notch (205°C perhaps?).\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n6041,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Valmond,2.528907649931287,3.8082347013731885,0.0,5.646830619998737,3.0574377365420307,2.573796998740239,\"How can you both reliably print and remove your item, without breaking it when detaching it?\",\"I have had problems with items sticking on the build plate, especially when they were big (as they didn't stick well, they corners warped -> all kind of problems).\n\nI also wanted to upgrade my printer (Scratch XYCore-Bowden) to have the ability to use flexible filament so first I modified my extruder motor/cog-wheel so it pushes the filament straight into the Bowden tube (classic modification).\n\nThis worked okay for small parts (as was the case with PLA).\n\nThe heat-bed seems to flex when heating in an uniform manner so it's not perfectly flat which means the Marlin 3-point test doesn't work out.\n\nTo alleviate this I added a borosilicate glass on top of the heat bed for perfect 'flatness', but the inductive sensor didn't reach through those extra 3 mm of the glass, so I bought another inductive sensor (old was 4 mm LJ12A3-4-Z/BY PNP with a voltage divider, new is 8 mm NPN) and this started to function somehow:\n\nAs the sensor doesn't sense the surface (or the glass at all), but senses the heatbed under, which isn't either flat nor stable according to temperature, I added aluminium tape under the glass pane. This actually works perfectly well!\n\nNow I am able to tune in the first layer distance really well, but still the flex filament floats around on the glass so I added blue painters tape which makes it work, very very well!\n\nAll well for flex printing!\n\nSwitched to PLA (which always worked okay whatever some small errors in print height, and not too wide items) and I have all pieces sticking to the bed in a manner I just cant get them off...\n\nThey get big scratches from the pincers, get broken, etc.,...\n\nI have tried:\n\n\nPincers (works for some items, doesn't work for some. About always makes marks);\nRipping off the blue painter tape (the tape was removed everywhere except where the item was stuck. Plus now I have to add new tape);\nChuck the build plate in the freezer for an hour. It helps a lot but:\n\n\nStill not easy to remove without making marks;\nIt's a serious hassle;\nIt's also a time waster.\n\n\n\nMy question is: How can you both reliably print and remove your item without breaking it?\n\nLittle image of the last part that I broke (the square impact in the middle is after ripping of the \"\"hook\"\" from this hanger when I tried to detach it from the heat bed), as it didn't work at all I had to put it in the freezer for an hour or so to be able to remove the rest:\n\n\n\",StarWind0,\"First if you print directly to the glass with a glue stick, over time there will be enough oil build up that you will not have this issue. \n\nFollowing, if the change in heat temp on a bare glass is not enough to pop it off, I personally use a thin strong blade, specifically a leather cutting blade. Note this blade will through mats with ease. That said that blade is made to cut leather, your thumb is easier to slice by a lot.\n\nLast if you cannot do these, then simply print a few raft layers and don't worry about damaging at the removal point. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6041,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Valmond,2.528907649931287,3.8082347013731885,0.0,5.646830619998737,3.0574377365420307,2.573796998740239,\"How can you both reliably print and remove your item, without breaking it when detaching it?\",\"I have had problems with items sticking on the build plate, especially when they were big (as they didn't stick well, they corners warped -> all kind of problems).\n\nI also wanted to upgrade my printer (Scratch XYCore-Bowden) to have the ability to use flexible filament so first I modified my extruder motor/cog-wheel so it pushes the filament straight into the Bowden tube (classic modification).\n\nThis worked okay for small parts (as was the case with PLA).\n\nThe heat-bed seems to flex when heating in an uniform manner so it's not perfectly flat which means the Marlin 3-point test doesn't work out.\n\nTo alleviate this I added a borosilicate glass on top of the heat bed for perfect 'flatness', but the inductive sensor didn't reach through those extra 3 mm of the glass, so I bought another inductive sensor (old was 4 mm LJ12A3-4-Z/BY PNP with a voltage divider, new is 8 mm NPN) and this started to function somehow:\n\nAs the sensor doesn't sense the surface (or the glass at all), but senses the heatbed under, which isn't either flat nor stable according to temperature, I added aluminium tape under the glass pane. This actually works perfectly well!\n\nNow I am able to tune in the first layer distance really well, but still the flex filament floats around on the glass so I added blue painters tape which makes it work, very very well!\n\nAll well for flex printing!\n\nSwitched to PLA (which always worked okay whatever some small errors in print height, and not too wide items) and I have all pieces sticking to the bed in a manner I just cant get them off...\n\nThey get big scratches from the pincers, get broken, etc.,...\n\nI have tried:\n\n\nPincers (works for some items, doesn't work for some. About always makes marks);\nRipping off the blue painter tape (the tape was removed everywhere except where the item was stuck. Plus now I have to add new tape);\nChuck the build plate in the freezer for an hour. It helps a lot but:\n\n\nStill not easy to remove without making marks;\nIt's a serious hassle;\nIt's also a time waster.\n\n\n\nMy question is: How can you both reliably print and remove your item without breaking it?\n\nLittle image of the last part that I broke (the square impact in the middle is after ripping of the \"\"hook\"\" from this hanger when I tried to detach it from the heat bed), as it didn't work at all I had to put it in the freezer for an hour or so to be able to remove the rest:\n\n\n\",CrossRoads,\"Technology has come to the rescue here. New printing surfaces are available that release PLA very easily. I am using the WhamBam system. A magnet is stuck to the AL bed. A flex steel sheet is placed on the magnet. The flexsteel has a PEX sheet stuck to it.\n\nAfter levelling the bed, a print is done normally. When done, the flex steel sheet is lifted off the magnet. After cooling a minute or two, give the steel a little flex across the two sides, and the piece pops right off.\n\nI've posted a video at this Stack Exchange topic\n\nPrinting PLA on PEX surface - is heated bed needed?\n\",0.0,0.0\n4999,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Rafael,2.528907649931287,4.440027460088813,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Oven/Food safe Filament?,\"I just backed a 3d printer on kickstarter, called \"\"Mooz\"\", and I was wondering about some of the possible applications of it. I realized it would be cool/helpful to be make cookie models, and bake cookies to that shape. The cookies can be baked as low as around 250 °F, So is there any food-safe and heat resistant filament that can withstand those temperatures? (I know many filaments are printed above those temps anyways, but in my case I don't want them to even warp.) Google has failed me on this one, so I hope someone here can answer it for me!\n-Thanks in advance :)\n\nP.S. My 3d printer will have a heated bed, so it can print more types of filaments. The highest bed temp is 100 °C, and the highest hot end temp is 250 °C. I don't really mind using some sealant, but I'd rather not use something toxic like ABS.\n\nP.P.S I'm a newbie to this stuff, so I apologize in advance if I asked a really stupid question.\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"Don't try to bake cookies inside a plastic mold; the plastic will smoke even if not melt. If you need to bake cookies use a cookie cutter made of plastic (your own design or copy) obviously printed on your new printer then bake normally. here is a link from thingeverse to get a cookie cutter .stl file\n\n:) enjoy cutting cookies these holidays\n\nHere is another link from hacks from one person is making the same to show his idea.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5013,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Rafael,3.0576060275493275,3.6528930163092497,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,What are the safest temperatures to heat different filaments to?,\"I recently backed a 3D printer on Kickstarter, and I would like to 3D print parts for high-temperature applications. So I have two questions; \n\n\nWhat's the highest temperature polycarbonate can be safely heated to without warping or releasing toxins?\nIf there's a filament with better temp-resistance I can print could you tell me? (If you know the highest temperature it could reach safely, that would be helpful too.)\n\n\nMy 3D printer will have a heated bed up to 100°C, and an extruder temp of up to 250°C.\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"All plastics have two temperatures to consider for operation and evaluation: \n\n\nMelting point = the temperature that plastics starts to get soft; this can be considered for maximum temperature operation.\nFlow temperature = normally used for molding process and this have a wide range of temperatures depending on PPM´s and mixtures to meet a purpose like coffee cups. Here a link for filament temperature guides\n\n\nPolycarbonates are the most plastic used for industrial and kitchen appliances. Due higher temperatures support and hardness, so I think is not possible to use polycarbonates in 3D printers due its temperatures are from 250°C to 320°C.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5013,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Rafael,3.0576060275493275,3.6528930163092497,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,What are the safest temperatures to heat different filaments to?,\"I recently backed a 3D printer on Kickstarter, and I would like to 3D print parts for high-temperature applications. So I have two questions; \n\n\nWhat's the highest temperature polycarbonate can be safely heated to without warping or releasing toxins?\nIf there's a filament with better temp-resistance I can print could you tell me? (If you know the highest temperature it could reach safely, that would be helpful too.)\n\n\nMy 3D printer will have a heated bed up to 100°C, and an extruder temp of up to 250°C.\n\",ZuOverture,\"\nPolycarbonate is heat-resistant up to ~120C. Above this temperature it will gradually become flexible and may irreversibly bend. It will not generate any toxic fumes all the way up to ignition temperature (630C), because it's fumes are not considered harmful. Note though, that with your temperature limit you may not be able to print with polycarbonate, or only do so at a very low speed.\nAccording to the sheets of commercially available printable plastics, PC has the highest printing temperature and heat resistance among them, seconded by nylon. This refers to the FDM printers only. SLS printers may be able to use other materials, even metals like aluminum or titanium, so if you really wish to get temperature-resistant prints, you may look for workshops that have SLS printers and ask them.\n\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n8520,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Rafael,-1.726248027126092,3.2043470614382206,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.082726318457765,Is there proof that 3D printer made nanoparticles are dangerous?,\"Facts:\n\n\nBreaking down (or melting) plastic creates nanoparticles.1\n3D printers melt plastic.2\nTherefore, 3D printers make nanoparticles.3\nNanoparticles are evil.[citation needed]\n\n\nWait, What?\n\n\n\n1. Plastic waste disintegrates into nanoparticles\n2. How do 3D printers work?\n 3. Characterization of particle emissions from consumer fused deposition modeling 3D printers\n\n\n\nI know that 3D printers make nanoparticles. But is that actually a safety concern? There are multiple products on the market today that will suck up your nanoparticles for you. However, I can't see an obvious danger in the particles themselves. Who decided that these nanoparticles are bad for your health? 3D printers put out plenty of heat too, but nobody thinks that's dangerous.\n\nSo my question: Does anyone know of sources/research articles of the possible harmful effects of nanoparticles created by 3D printing? I'm looking for real scientific research. Thanks.\n\",cmm,\"Perhaps FDM 3D printing does emit nanoparticles during the process of printing, but the syllogism does not prove it or even suggest it. \n\nParenthetically, your headline is not actually addressed by the body of your question. As an answerer, I have been misled by other questions which seemed clear enough from the headline, but where the question body actually posed a completely different question. \n\nDouble parenthetically, your final question does align with your headline. The discussion of 3D printing and the assertion that it is dangerous is not actually relevant to the question at all. It might be better to remove the references to 3D printing and post this in another SE group focused on human health.\n\nThe first point, that breaking down or melting plastic produces nano-particles is not supported by your reference. The reference refers to the mechanical breakdown of particles in a simulated oceanic environment and does not mention melting. The reference is silent on the possibility of melting producing and emitting nanoparticles.\n\nIn an FDM 3D printer, the melting takes place in an enclosed capsule, the hot-end. The plastic is heated to the point where the viscosity is low enough that the pressure of the unsoftened plastic filament pushes the softened material out of the hot-end through the nozzle. Upon exiting the nozzle the temperature falls, and the plastic begins to recrystallize.\n\nI have seen no evidence of outgassing during printing with dry filament, other than an odor. Usually melting joins separated objects, pellets, and larger particles in a unified liquid state. \n\nWithout specific testing, one can not say there is no risk of nanoparticles emitted by FDM 3D printing. Ventilation remains a useful method of reducing local exposure to nanoparticles and odors. Airborne risks are one of the many risks to be considered, but I have no evidence that they are more serious than the burn risk, the fire risk, or the risk of a stroke from high blood pressure induced by failed prints.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8520,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Rafael,-1.726248027126092,3.2043470614382206,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.082726318457765,Is there proof that 3D printer made nanoparticles are dangerous?,\"Facts:\n\n\nBreaking down (or melting) plastic creates nanoparticles.1\n3D printers melt plastic.2\nTherefore, 3D printers make nanoparticles.3\nNanoparticles are evil.[citation needed]\n\n\nWait, What?\n\n\n\n1. Plastic waste disintegrates into nanoparticles\n2. How do 3D printers work?\n 3. Characterization of particle emissions from consumer fused deposition modeling 3D printers\n\n\n\nI know that 3D printers make nanoparticles. But is that actually a safety concern? There are multiple products on the market today that will suck up your nanoparticles for you. However, I can't see an obvious danger in the particles themselves. Who decided that these nanoparticles are bad for your health? 3D printers put out plenty of heat too, but nobody thinks that's dangerous.\n\nSo my question: Does anyone know of sources/research articles of the possible harmful effects of nanoparticles created by 3D printing? I'm looking for real scientific research. Thanks.\n\",Jonas Lang,\"At the time of this writing (March 2019), I don't think theres any study on the health effects of nanoparticles emmitted by 3D Printers. The general consensus seems to be right now that those particles are potentially harmful, as they build up in the lungs, and therefore precautions should be taken.\n\nThe reason why nobody has yet determined if and how harmful they are, might be that those adverse health effects are probably long term, and hard to isolate. Plastic is everywhere today - it's not that easy to just study harmful health effects caused by 3D printers.\n\nBut we can say for sure that plastic in our bodies isn't ideal and can cause damage, so we should avoid it.\n\",3.0411126502294303,0.0\n5002,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,potato 123,1.726248027126092,5.358698050130579,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.1827783713261073,0.0,\"Z Steppers just hum, vibrate and don't move at all\",\"As I said in the title there is some issue with my z axis steppers. They will make a humming sound and vibrate a little but won't actually spin. I'm fairly sure this is an issue with the firmware (but I might be totally wrong) since they turn when the wires are switched with the ones for the Y axis and swapping the driver board for a spare had no impact on them. Any help would be appreciated. I am using RAMPs 1.4 and marlin firmware.\n\",cmm,\"Let's tick off the factors you have already checked for. \n\nIt isn't the driver board, because the Z driver board drives the Y motors. It could be the Z motor itself (or the cable), which you could test by plugging the Z motor into the Y driver board. If only one of the two motor coils were being energized, it would cause vibration but generate no motion.\n\n@ZuOverture suggests it could be the drive current setting on the motor driver board. Possible, especially if the Z motor requires more current.\n\nIt is also possible that the output pin from the Arduino Mega board may be bad, or not connecting well.\n\nTo investigate, find the step and direction inputs to the stepper driver board. Use a voltmeter, logic probe, or oscilloscope to verify the signal levels. If the signals don't jiggle when moving the motor, then follow the wires and check at each point along the way.\n\nYou could also plug in a replacement Arduino, which you have programmed with the firmware, and check if that works.\n\nIf the Arduino pin is bad, you can keep it in your junk box for future projects.\n\nLooking at the firmware angle, one would check the speed and acceleration settings for the Z axis. When in doubt, try slower speed and lower acceleration. Z-axis performance doesn't make much difference in the printing speed.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5002,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,potato 123,1.726248027126092,5.358698050130579,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.1827783713261073,0.0,\"Z Steppers just hum, vibrate and don't move at all\",\"As I said in the title there is some issue with my z axis steppers. They will make a humming sound and vibrate a little but won't actually spin. I'm fairly sure this is an issue with the firmware (but I might be totally wrong) since they turn when the wires are switched with the ones for the Y axis and swapping the driver board for a spare had no impact on them. Any help would be appreciated. I am using RAMPs 1.4 and marlin firmware.\n\",ZuOverture,\"Try connecting Y-motor to your Z ports. If Y-motor will behave like Z-motors, then there's problem with your Z ports, be it hardware or software. I'm not a RAMPS user, but have heard that there is voltage regulator for every motor port. Sounds like your motors may be underpowered.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5018,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,James,1.0891412423578797,3.442720459815422,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Prusa I3x and repetier host heat problems,\"I've saved settings in the slicer for pla and abs, set the default bed temp to 90 and extruder to 185. No matter what settings I select to print with, the bed temp sets to 110 and the extruder to 230 when I send a job to print which I don't want. If I then control the heat manually, repetier or the printer seems to ignore my requests.\nIf I try to kill the job I keep getting a box coming up asking me to switch the heats off; I select yes and nothing happens.\n\nIf I use the emergency stop the heats switch off.\n\",Math3w,\"\nYou may set the temp in Repetier but when you run the gcode it will send any of the temp settings in the file. So you may set 210 °C first but if 200 °C is in the G-code the printer will take that (as the gcode is sent one instruction at a time). However I also noticed that after the automatic bed leveling any manual settings on the printer are reset to the G-code (I assume the file is re-stating the temp after bed leveling) So I have to override the file temp after the bed leveling is complete.\nI now use OctoPrint and it has a cool feature : temp offsetting, you can specify an offset for every temperature the OctoPrint server sends to printer; e.g. in your file it is set to bed: 110 °C and extruder: 230 °C you can tell OctoPrint to take 20 °C off all bed temps sent and 45 °C off any extruder tempperatures sent. It's great for tweaking the temperatures of your G-code without editing or re slicing, just change the temperature offset and reprint.\nI noticed on a previous firmware version for the I3 mk2s Repetier did not connect properly to the printer this problem disappeared in the latest Prusa firmware (v3.1). One of the symptoms I noticed was the temperature settings were not taken by the printer.\nSome slicers have a setting to have sticky parameters, i.e. set temperature once don't bother re-sending. However if this was turned off, it is possible that the generated G-code repeatedly send the temperature settings with every instruction, continuously resetting and overriding these values. (OctoPrint temperature offsets would correct this)\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5030,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SPlatten,1.0891412423578797,2.634955868424173,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"Project help, printing a Neopixel enclosure to secure to a car rear windscreen\",\"I haven't purchased a 3D printer yet, I've been working on the software and electronics for my project and now I'm about ready to get a printer, haven't decide on which yet.\n\nRecommendations welcome.\n\nMy project will put 3 rows of Neopixels on the windscreen of my car, attached to the top inside. I intend to print the container in sections that will slow together.\n\nI want to allow for the curvature of the windscreen in the design of the container and this is my question, I want to design a container that will hold 3 rows of Neopixel strips, thats the easy part, I want the container to fit neatly against the windscreen with no gaps, how do I work out the curve of the windscreen so I can put this onto the enclosure ready for printing?\n\nThe enclose will be as wide as the read windscreen and split into printable sections that will slot together for installation.\n\nThe car this is going into is an Audi A5 2012.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"There's a handy tool for replicating curves that use a series of plastic or metal fingers in a sliding mount. One presses all the fingers to one side, then presses the bracket to the desired surface until all fingers are in contact. The opposite side now represents the measured curve and can be traced into a modeling program.\n\nFor your purposes, that is unlikely to work, as the tool is perhaps six inches long, far too short to span your windscreen.\n\nConsider the following:\n\nAttach a string to each edge of the windscreen or wedge a thin rod from one side to the other. This provides you with a straight line reference. Measure as nearly as possible to perpendicular from the reference string to the windscreen surface. I have a laser measuring device that has 1/16\"\" or 1 mm accuracy above certain distance, which would not work well in this case as you approach zero at the edges.\n\nStart in the center, record your measurement, and move an appropriate distance outward. I suggest you need only approximately 20-30 mm spacing as you are collecting points on a curve, which are likely to be relatively uniform and easily reproduced in software.\n\nYour graph now has zero, zero on the left, and say 750 mm, 40 mm on the right, with matching numbers in the middle. On real paper, turn it into a graph, or use a suitable vector editing software such as Inkscape and duplicate it there.\n\nDepending on the shape of your window, you may have to replicate the process at different heights in order to get a proper representation of the curve of the glass.\n\nOnce you have the dots, run a Bezier curve through the dots. The resulting like can be extruded or otherwise converted into the segments necessary for your 3D printing project.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5093,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SPlatten,2.528907649931287,3.1093304690984147,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,QIDITECH Dual Extruder and PETG,\"I have just received my QIDITECH printer, I've have ABS, PLA and two reals of PETG. I printed a sample using the clear PETG and this worked find, I didn't have to change any of the default settings.\n\nToday I've tried three times to print a simple model using the black real of PETG. I've created which is essentially just a rectangle, but after a few minutes the extruder starts to drag around filament.\n\nWhat can I do? The filament is loaded ok, and it starts out ok, but very quickly messes up.\n\",SPlatten,\"It was a while back I created this post, since then I've have numerous problems / learning curves and now I'm very pleased to say I have a printer that prints perfectly and is set-up correctly.\n\nI must say that the support from QidiTech is first class and during my journey I was sent a new extruder assembly, new extruders and also new print matts, all completely free and covered by the warranty.\n\nI have now printed numerous models successfully.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5094,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SPlatten,1.0891412423578797,2.9268557087492164,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Model stuck on base,\"I've printed the same model at least twice and both times it was impossible to separate from the base material it was printed on.\n\nI'm using a QIDITECH dual extruder, when I start the print it uses the right side extruder to print a base layer, which is not part of the original model, it seems MakerBot issues this instruction to the printer.\n\nOnce the initial layer has been printed it then prints the model.\n\nBoth extruders are loaded with PETG. In the left side I am printed with a transparent material. The model I am trying to print is a flat rectangle 2 mm thick.\n\nThe problem is that once it has completed printing I'm finding it impossible to separate from the initial layer it put down.\n\nHow do I solve this problem?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The \"\"base\"\" you are referring to is normally called a \"\"raft\"\". It's not very common to print with a raft these days (it was originally used to help with bed adhesion, but the current-day standard is to use a heated bed if available in combination with some surface preparation (hair spray, PEI sheets, etc...) to aid adhesion); you might consider just disabling the raft.\n\nAlternatively, you could consider (since you have a dual extruder) to print the raft in a different material that is more easily removed from the main material. There exist materials that are specifically formulated to break away easily from your print, and another option is to use a (water-)soluble material for the raft and any supports.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n5128,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SPlatten,1.726248027126092,2.663475740203885,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Makerbot layer thickness,\"I'm using PETG, the thickness of the filament is 1.75mm, in MakerBot there is a setting for \"\"Layer Height\"\", the default is 0.1mm, I've had lots of messed up prints with this material and I'm thinking it could be this setting that needs adjustment.\n\nWhat layer thickness should be used?\n\nFound this: http://forum.makergear.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=2593\n\",Mick,\"Unlike PLA, PETG does not like to be \"\"squidged\"\" down, it likes to be laid down. If you use too small a layer height, there is the danger of the filament sticking to the nozzle, rather than the bed (or filament already laid down). Try using a larger layer height -- between 0.2mm and 0.3mm, if you have a 0.4mm nozzle.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5131,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SPlatten,1.726248027126092,3.264951048124368,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,2.3655567426522146,1.8301919300004668,Tips for printing and being able to get of base easily,\"I'm very new to 3D printing and I've had numerous failed prints. Sometimes, the print is good but while trying to get it off the base I end up bending or breaking the print.\n\nMy question is: How to I print and make it easier to release from the plate?\n\nI'm printing with PETG, PLA and ABS. At the moment, it's PETG that is giving me trouble.\n\nMy printer is a QIDITECH Dual Extruder.\n\nI found this:\n\nhttps://all3dp.com/1/remove-3d-print-from-bed-stuck-glass/\n\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6fudqMEGyI\n\nI haven't tried any of the proposed solutions yet.\n\",mac,\"The all3dp article you linked to is very comprehensive and shows what are the \"\"approaches\"\" to print removal, rather than just the tools. For the sake of keeping all info accessible here, the article highlight these 6 approaches:\n\n\nBrute force\nWedge the joint apart\nThermal difference\nChemical reaction\nMechanical cut\nBed warping\n\n\nTo that list I would add a final class of solutions that I would call \"\"sacrificial surface\"\": use some removable substrate like painter's tape and remove that from the bed rather than the print from it. Once the print+surface is off the printer than is normally very easy to scrape or sand the material off the print.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5131,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SPlatten,1.726248027126092,3.264951048124368,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,2.3655567426522146,1.8301919300004668,Tips for printing and being able to get of base easily,\"I'm very new to 3D printing and I've had numerous failed prints. Sometimes, the print is good but while trying to get it off the base I end up bending or breaking the print.\n\nMy question is: How to I print and make it easier to release from the plate?\n\nI'm printing with PETG, PLA and ABS. At the moment, it's PETG that is giving me trouble.\n\nMy printer is a QIDITECH Dual Extruder.\n\nI found this:\n\nhttps://all3dp.com/1/remove-3d-print-from-bed-stuck-glass/\n\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6fudqMEGyI\n\nI haven't tried any of the proposed solutions yet.\n\",SPlatten,\"In the end I found using the tape was a great help, getting the level correct is also a big help.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5035,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mac,2.528907649931287,3.4560097683240127,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,How to remove internal part of a hex grid,\"I am modelling a few cut templates to be used on an hexagonal grid (honeycomb) material using OpenSCAD. Basically, from a reference cell, I need to select all cells that are within a given range and given angle.\n\nI implemented this by creating an in memory grid that covers an area larger than what I need (extra range, 360 degrees), and then testing each cell for both the distance and angle requirements, extruding only those that test positive for both conditions.\n\nEverything works as expected...\n\n\n\n...but now I would also like to add the possibility to have the outer contour of the template without having each individual cell within it (so, a single thin line going around the whole \"\"pizza slice\"\" above).\n\nI'm pretty new to OpenSCAD: what would be the best approach here?\n(I'm happy even with a solution that requires to re-implement what done until now).\n\",Mick,\"Unfortunately, OpenSCAD does not have a 2D hull() transformation, although it has been requested. You might be able to find a pre-written package that implements a 2D hull. However, if all you want is a hexagonal grid with a border of some arbitrary shape, could you not cheat, and get your slicer to generate the grid for you? All you would need to do is generate the envelope, and then slice with a hexagonal grid as in-fill, and request no top or bottom layers. Most slicers will do hexagonal in-fill.\n\nIf you want to do it all in OpenSCAD, then I would go about it like this:\n\n\nCreate a 2D grid, similar to what you have now.\nCreate a 2D outline of the shape you want, undersized so that you can add a manifold (as a perimeter).\nDuplicate this shape.\nAdd a manifold to the first copy.\nCreate an intersection of the second copy and the grid.\nCreate a union of the two copies.\nExtrude the union.\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n5035,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mac,2.528907649931287,3.4560097683240127,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,How to remove internal part of a hex grid,\"I am modelling a few cut templates to be used on an hexagonal grid (honeycomb) material using OpenSCAD. Basically, from a reference cell, I need to select all cells that are within a given range and given angle.\n\nI implemented this by creating an in memory grid that covers an area larger than what I need (extra range, 360 degrees), and then testing each cell for both the distance and angle requirements, extruding only those that test positive for both conditions.\n\nEverything works as expected...\n\n\n\n...but now I would also like to add the possibility to have the outer contour of the template without having each individual cell within it (so, a single thin line going around the whole \"\"pizza slice\"\" above).\n\nI'm pretty new to OpenSCAD: what would be the best approach here?\n(I'm happy even with a solution that requires to re-implement what done until now).\n\",mac,\"I ended up finding a reasonable solution myself:\n\n\n\nBasically, I diffed two identical, non-hollow geometries, in which the first one had the cells larger than they needed to be (so overlapping with others), and the second one had them exactly of the right dimension:\n\ndifference() {\n base_geometry(range, angle, infill, extra_padding = 2);\n base_geometry(range, angle, infill, extra_padding = 0);\n}\n\n\nThis way the only portion of the solid remaining was the extra_padding on the outer edges of the geometry.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5151,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mac,3.452496054252184,3.736419581230668,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,1.878685800062712,\"Are there any \"\"best\"\" or at least \"\"common\"\" practices to handle allowances in OpenSCAD code?\",\"I'm designing a few mechanisms with OpenSCAD, and one of the parameters that need adjustment between printers/filaments is allowances between pieces that need to be assembled together (for example, if I want a \"\"5 mm diameter pin\"\" to fasten two pieces together, how much larger than 5 mm will the holes / how much smaller than 5 mm will the pin need to be).\n\nCurrently I approach the problem by setting a global variable allowance and manually using it in the code, something like:\n\nmodule pin(radius) {\n cylinder(r = radius + allowance)\n}\n\nmodule hole(radius) {\n cylinder(r = radius - allowance)\n}\n\n\nI have no real world experience with design though, so I wonder if there are common or coding best practices to account for allowances when designing parts like for example:\n\n\nspecific modules to be used,\nconventional names for variables\nspecific techniques to be used (scaling? vectors?)\nconventions (like only use tolerances on the fastener, not the fastened object)\n...?\n\n\nTo clarify: I'm not looking on advice on how to plan the dimensions of my designs. Rather, I am looking for advice on how to organise the OpenSCAD code generating them.\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"Well, the tolerances will depend on material to be used for fabrication of the required part and also where the part will go and fit. Remember the all parts need some clearance to fit properly.\n\nFew years ago (10 years) I was working as Quality Engineer and some Design Engineers were complaining about a Dupont pin was not fitting on the PCB so they told me that I need to force the PCB manufacturing to increase the holes to the higher tolerance. Which I had to ask him firstly the pin size and told me 0.70 mm and hole size 0.80 and maximum 0.90 \n - hmmm and maximum size of the pin? I asked, and they told me proudly 0.78mm so the part will fit perfectly.\n - Oh, so one square pin of 0.78mm will fit on one hole of 0.9mm, but what about the diagonal dimension? if the pin on the higher dimension is close to 1.2mm.\n\nImagine what happened later, engineering changes and modifying other designs due improper tolerances. pro-engineer software was unable to calculate what the designers needed.\n\nMaterial has shrinkage, warpage, and other conditions that is needed to know like malleability and hardness and some of this data is on the specification material or the part specification.\n\",-1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5151,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mac,3.452496054252184,3.736419581230668,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,1.878685800062712,\"Are there any \"\"best\"\" or at least \"\"common\"\" practices to handle allowances in OpenSCAD code?\",\"I'm designing a few mechanisms with OpenSCAD, and one of the parameters that need adjustment between printers/filaments is allowances between pieces that need to be assembled together (for example, if I want a \"\"5 mm diameter pin\"\" to fasten two pieces together, how much larger than 5 mm will the holes / how much smaller than 5 mm will the pin need to be).\n\nCurrently I approach the problem by setting a global variable allowance and manually using it in the code, something like:\n\nmodule pin(radius) {\n cylinder(r = radius + allowance)\n}\n\nmodule hole(radius) {\n cylinder(r = radius - allowance)\n}\n\n\nI have no real world experience with design though, so I wonder if there are common or coding best practices to account for allowances when designing parts like for example:\n\n\nspecific modules to be used,\nconventional names for variables\nspecific techniques to be used (scaling? vectors?)\nconventions (like only use tolerances on the fastener, not the fastened object)\n...?\n\n\nTo clarify: I'm not looking on advice on how to plan the dimensions of my designs. Rather, I am looking for advice on how to organise the OpenSCAD code generating them.\n\",John Deters,\"It helps to understand the different aspects of dimensions, so you can use the terminology correctly. This will help you define your variables in OpenSCAD with correct names. (Tolerance is the wrong term to use.) And once you have correct names, you'll understand how to specify the dimensions in OpenSCAD.\n\n\nTolerance is the amount of random deviation or variation permitted for a given dimension.\nAllowance is a planned difference between a nominal or reference value and an exact value. \nClearance is the intentional space between two parts.\nInterference is the intentional overlap between two parts. \n\n\nTwo other terms \n\n\nAccuracy is the maximum dimensional variation between parts. A machine cannot produce parts with a tighter tolerance than its accuracy.\nPrecision is the size of the steps your machine is capable of. It is often confused with accuracy.\n\n\nIn your case you need to define the allowance in order to create the clearance you desire.\n\nTo design your 5 mm pin and 5 mm hole, you need to understand your machine's accuracy. The printer could print the pin larger than 5 mm or smaller than 5 mm. Or it could print the hole larger than 5 mm or smaller than 5 mm. You'll need to print some pins and holes and measure the differences between what you defined and what you printed. The difference between the largest and smallest measurements you take is your machine's accuracy. And be sure to check the accuracy in your X, Y, and Z dimensions; your printer might have a difference between them that would impact the roundness of the parts. \n\nLet's say that your printer's measured accuracy is ± 0.2 mm.\n\nThen, we move to clearance. What is the minimum gap between parts you are looking for, and what is the maximum you can accept?\n\nLet's say you want a clearance of at least 0.2 mm between the pin and hole, but no more than 1.0 mm. Since your accuracy is ± 0.2 mm, your pin will be 5.0 ± 0.2 mm, so the hole must therefore be 5.6 mm ± 0.2 mm. The minimum tolerance condition would be an minimum sized hole (5.4 mm) and a maximum sized pin (5.2 mm); the maximum tolerance would be a maximum sized hole (5.8 mm) and a minimum sized pin (4.8 mm).\n\nNote that a clearance of 1.0 mm might be too sloppy for your application. You might think to tighten the tolerances to 0.05 mm in order to reduce the clearance. But if your printer can't produce a part that meets your specified tolerances, you would need to find a different way to manufacture or finish the parts.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n5241,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mac,4.356564969431519,6.454313511594,0.0,3.1880595895805834,4.503257053771732,3.7272071097011072,Why all the excitement about linear rails?,\"Whenever a 3D printer that uses linear rails is announced (case in point: the cetus), the Internet (well... at least that corner of it dealing with 3D printing) gets abuzz with excitement.\n\nI researched a bit the topic myself, and while I understand that linear rails can be produced to a fantastic degree of precision for super-heavy machinery, it escapes my comprehension why they are considered superior \"\"by default\"\", relative to the classic linear bearings on a shaft.\n\n3D printing is a lightweight application, and the motion of at least 2 axis does not happen against a solid surface (where you could bolt a linear rail every few cm) but suspended between the 2 ends of the axis. Furthermore, the internals of the bearings used on linear rails are substantially identical to those used on a shaft.\n\nThe cetus site says under the heading \"\"Quality Linear Rails\"\":\n\n\n Self-lubricated | Maintenance Free | High Precision | Long Lifespan | Quiet\n\n\nbut this - in my experience - can be said of \"\"Quality Linear Bearings on a Shaft\"\" as well, and in some cases even bushing deliver to a high standard on 3D printers.\n\nSo, what am I missing?\n\",mac,\"The following is a compilation of the input from a number of sources.\n\nLinear rails in general are mechanical components that - when designing equipment - offer great flexibility.\n\nThe profile of the rail can be designed in nearly infinite ways. This in turn allows for:\n\n\nDifferent levels of stiffness in different directions (for example you may have stresses only on a given plane, or you may actually want the rail to slightly flex in one plane but not in another one).\nPlacing the surfaces for the rollers strategically, for example in a location that is unlikely to get contaminated, or where the maximum force will be applied.\nCurved paths, so that the carriage can move along a line that is not straight.\n\n\nBecause the contact surface between the rollers and the bearings is flat, cylinders can be used instead of spheres. This in turns diminishes the mechanical stresses, and the amount of play, increases longevity and allows for more bearing capacity, among others.\n\nLinear rails can be anchored along their full length, rather that at their extremes, thus increasing the accuracy of their positioning, their stiffness and their bearing capacity.\n\nLinear rails can be machined while pre-loaded, thus achieving maximum accuracy when in use, rather than when coming out of the factory.\n\nThe bearings on a linear rail only allow for one degree of movement. There need to be two rods with linear bearings/bushes to achieve the same result.\n\nAll that said, when it comes to the specific application of consumer-grade FDM 3D printers, it seems that none of the above is very relevant, nor confers any real advantage to the printer in terms of quality of the final print:\n\n\nthe mechanical stresses involved in 3D printing are very small,\nthe movements all happen along straight lines,\nmost of the axis cannot be anchored to a large, rigid body,\n...\n\n\nOn the other hand, the design with rods + linear bearings is cheap, effective, simpler and lightweight, all characteristics that are highly desirable in a 3D printer.\n\nAll in all, it seems that there is no good reason to prefer linear rails over rods in general.\n\nStill, there may be specific designs that may benefit from their adoption. I postulate that the Cetus printer linked in the question may be such a design: the cantilever arrangement of its axis - for example - is well served by the fact that a single rail locks movement in all but one direction, and the orientation of the X rail offers maximum rigidity against the action of gravity.\n\",3.859531739127555,2.0769199823829045\n5241,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mac,4.356564969431519,6.454313511594,0.0,3.1880595895805834,4.503257053771732,3.7272071097011072,Why all the excitement about linear rails?,\"Whenever a 3D printer that uses linear rails is announced (case in point: the cetus), the Internet (well... at least that corner of it dealing with 3D printing) gets abuzz with excitement.\n\nI researched a bit the topic myself, and while I understand that linear rails can be produced to a fantastic degree of precision for super-heavy machinery, it escapes my comprehension why they are considered superior \"\"by default\"\", relative to the classic linear bearings on a shaft.\n\n3D printing is a lightweight application, and the motion of at least 2 axis does not happen against a solid surface (where you could bolt a linear rail every few cm) but suspended between the 2 ends of the axis. Furthermore, the internals of the bearings used on linear rails are substantially identical to those used on a shaft.\n\nThe cetus site says under the heading \"\"Quality Linear Rails\"\":\n\n\n Self-lubricated | Maintenance Free | High Precision | Long Lifespan | Quiet\n\n\nbut this - in my experience - can be said of \"\"Quality Linear Bearings on a Shaft\"\" as well, and in some cases even bushing deliver to a high standard on 3D printers.\n\nSo, what am I missing?\n\",Brad,\"Linear rails will always produce a high degree of accuracy and stability and more so than round rod with PTFE bushings and/or bearings. \n\nOne may argue the fact however even as a product developer and one who is involved with the mechanicals and development of machinery on a day to day basis comparing the two we see “significant” improvements using rails over rods and if properly utilized on a Z axis print bed you will have a bed free of leveling issues that can smoothly and accurately operate with one driver versus two. \n\nI will further add that getting rods aligned perfectly is a difficult task for the average person and even a slight twist or angular position can affect final print quality. I’ve seen many linear rods that appear visually straight and when chucked into a lathe spindle with 0.0000 accuracy there will be 0.005 or more in runout. In fact I’ve yet to see one perfecting concentric motion that is longer than 6 inches. This tells me that they cannot plausibly be as accurate and that while they may function they will never function with a high degree of accuracy.\n\nDo we need higher accuracy in 3D printer axis? Sure we can have quality control boards that compensate to some degree however the mechanics of the machine are utmost important before you choose the quality of board and software. Why install a \\$300 motion control on a cheap linear rod printer if you’re not going to see the full benefits? \n\nWith technology further advancing into 64 bit and eventually 128 bit and higher degrees of precisional accuracy 3D printing is turning a page and will if not already be capable of micro resolutional accuracy and can only do so if all the components function properly together. \n\nSo sure, your rod guided printer works. However, it will never work as well as my linear rail guided printer with ballscrews and servos. You can have your layered fuzzy prints. I will keep my smooth finished injection molded looking parts that are made from materials a typical desktop cannot even print. So to argue it’s not needed is arguing that high quality isn’t accepted in a lower price point market. \n\nOne other addition here. Ask yourself how level and square is your printer? I’m not talking about using a carpenter's level for checking your machine they can be inaccurate up to a 1/4” per 10 feet. When you can dial your printers bed down to 0.00005 or less every direction and your structure is just as accurate than you know what a quality printer and print looks like.\n\nI guarantee no printer priced \\$300-\\$1000 comes even close to that degree of accuracy. The average consumer is so drawn into the technology of a final print itself they overlook the precisional aspects involved and learn to settle for less. Then you wouldn’t expect your \\$500 printer to compete with my \\$10,000 printer either. \n\nBottom line you get what you pay for.\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5554,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mac,2.528907649931287,4.122314317552069,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.749318730431847,4.208576161768494,MOSFET as a safety feature,\"When going through printer reviews, I often see the presence of a MOSFET listed as an important safety feature.\n\nI understand the MOSFET to be a transistor, but I haven't understood how it is used in the circuitry of a printer, and - above all - why it increases the overall operating safety of the printer (nor what the less safe option would be).\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"In the world of (cheap) printers, \"\"MOSFET\"\" has taken on a meaning of its own.\n\nFor a long time, 3D printers have had MOSFETs on board of their motherboards to switch the heated bed. In the past two years or so, we've seen a surge of (mainly) Chinese printers where the on-board MOSFETs (or, more often, the terminal blocks) weren't rated for the high current for the heated bed and would melt down or catch fire.\n\nPeople then started recommending fixes to these issues, such as using a relay, soldering wires directly to the board (to bypass the terminal blocks) or using an external (better) MOSFET. Eventually, manufacturers caught on and started offering \"\"MOSFET boards\"\" which basically consist of a high-power MOSFET, high-current rated terminal blocks and (often) an optocoupler to isolate the drive signal from the bed power (but this doesn't really do anything; there's no need for this isolation). These boards are meant to be used to switch the high current to the bed directly, without it passing through the main board (and instead, the bed output of the main board is used as a control signal for the MOSFET board).\n\nPeople often refer to these pre-made \"\"MOSFET boards\"\" simply as \"\"MOSFETs\"\" but there is more to them than just a single transistor.\n\n\n why it increases the overall operating safety of the printer\n\n\nUsing an external MOSFET board does not increase the safety of the printer at all, unless the main board of the printer is badly designed. There's no reason the MOSFET needs to be external and can't be integrated on the main board. Essentially, any company that is offering a printer \"\"with a MOSFET (board)\"\" is saying that their main board is poorly designed and that they've included a band-aid fix. Or, perhaps, because installing an external MOSFET is such a common \"\"mod\"\" nowadays, they're advertising an external MOSFET because it is what people want to see (even if the main board might have a perfectly capable MOSFET already...).\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n5037,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,morcillo,2.1782824847157594,2.6493643560602123,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Adding points to a point cloud,\"I made a scan and got a cloud point file, but the cloud point is not that good, but I need to print it in a 3d printer as soon as possible, just to see how it would look. \n\nBasically it's missing some points that were not scanned properly due to it being transparent at those points. I'd like to add those points manually (using meshlab preferably) and create a surface with them .. something that makes this file printable. \n\nI know I could edit this file manually since it is an ascii file with the values of xyz .. but that is a lot of trouble and certainly there is a faster way to do this with a free tool. \n\",fred_dot_u,\"A good free tool for editing meshes would be Blender. Linux, Windows, Mac are supported. It has a serious learning curve, and is somewhat counter-intuitive in use (right click object to select) unless you customize it.\n\nPlenty of online video tutorials to learn the basics, though, and if you have a membership for Lynda.com, those videos are the best (opinion).\n\nI've used it to pull edges and vertices together, to chop out pieces that weren't supposed to be there, etc. The flexibility and power of the program is amazing, considering the price.\n\nMany artists use the program for creating 3D animations and full length movies. Amazing talent, well beyond my capabilities, but it shows what the software can do.\n\nThe website also has links to tutorials and the manual, which is also a work of art.\n\n\n\nIf you can devote the time to learn the program, anything 3D modeling related will be within reach.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5045,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tim B,1.726248027126092,2.7905764474501265,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Printing a part from two materials,\"I am trying to print a large part from PolyPro but can't get it to stop warping when I remove it. It also doesn't stick well. I have tried playing with printing speeds, temps, extrusion % etc. Even tried putting packing tape on the bed (which helped it stick but didn't prevent the warping).\n\nI thought I might try printing a base layer (2 mm) of PLA, the print the rest of the the part in PP right on top of it. The PLA hopefully will stick and keep the walls of the part straight. My question is how to do this. Is it as easy as cutting off the bottom 2 mm of the part and telling the design software that the part rests 2 mm above the bed, then tell Cura not to print a support?\n\",Bill Wang,\"You could just let it print the 2mm you want for the base, then pause the print and change the filament to PP and then resuming the print after you change the filament.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5049,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,thpitsch,2.1782824847157594,5.207342780199642,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Acceleration with Marlin,\"I expected that the movement of an axis would start slowly, become faster and then run at a constant speed when reaching the maximum speed, then slow down slowly and arrive at the target point at the lowest speed.\n\nAt my DIY machine, however, I achieve a constant, very low speed at the beginning, then jumpy change to the maximum speed, finally a also jumpy change to the low speed, which also happens at the beginning.\n\nI've been working on the Marlin settings for days, but I haven't had the slightest success.\n\nWhy don't I get any rising and falling ramps, why the sudden change?\n\nThese are my current Marlin settings:\n\nG21 ; Units in mm\nM149 C ; Units in Celsius \nFilament settings: Disabled\nM200 D1.75\nM200 T1 D1.75\nM200 D0\n\nSteps per unit:\nM92 X800.00 Y640.00 Z800.00 E500.00\n\nMaximum feedrates (units/s):\nM203 X200.00 Y200.00 Z12.00 E25.00\n\nMaximum Acceleration (units/s2):\nM201 X5000 Y5000 Z1000 E10000\n\nAcceleration (units/s2):\nP<print_accel> R<retract_accel> T<travel_accel>\nM204 P3000.00 R3000.00 T3000.00\n\nAdvanced: S<min_feedrate> T<min_travel_feedrate> B<min_segment_time_ms> X<max_xy_jerk> Z<max_z_jerk> E<max_e_jerk>\nM205 S0.00 T1000.00 B20000 X10.00 Y10.00 Z1.00 E5.00\n\n\nWhat's the secret of a beautiful ramp?\n\",MechanizedMedic,\"Your steps/mm settings are very high. Assuming you are running an ATMEGA based controller, like RAMPS, you will only be able to move at very slow feed rates (<20mm/s). There are also many hardware factors that influence your maximum speed at a given steps/mm (which is typically referred to a your maximum step rate):\n\n\nSupplied voltage. Using too high/low voltage can cause poor stepper performance or create unexpected faults at high/low step rates.\nMotor specifications. Stepper motors come in a dizzying number of models with varying specifications. This is because each one is tailored to a specific use case.\nStepper Driver. There are a bunch of driver designs and manufacturers out there and none of them should be considered equal. It also matters how you setup the driver in terms of current/voltage limits, microstepping, decay modes, heat syncing, etc.\nWiring. At high step rates the inductance of the wires between your controller and motors start to matter more, as does interference to/from other electrical devices.\n\n\nIf you aren't sure how to set/select/tune the things above it's best to just mimic what is done on common printers like the Prusa i3, which have robust designs.\n\nIn more direct regard to your Marlin settings, your acceleration and feedrate values are very high for an untested printer. It's best to start with conservative values (Accel ~500mm/s^2, Feedrate <10mm/s) and work your way up 10% at a time until you start having issues, then back off ~20% from there.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n5053,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,WhiskerBiscuit,2.1782824847157594,3.861196422461661,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,What infill settings and material type do I need?,\"I’m trying to have this bracket printed, but I don’t know what settings I should use.\n\n\n\nThe project details say 50% for infill, but is there a reason why I wouldn’t get 100% for making it sturdier? I imagine the developer used 50% because he used his own printer and wanted to preserve more material. The 3D printer service I’m using doesn’t charge more for 100%.\n\nBut I’m more concerned about the material I should select. Should I select PLA or ABS? The developer didn’t specify this.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"For such a small item and the small load it will carry, even 50 percent is substantial. Keep in mind that one hundred percent infill is not necessarily stronger. If you need to know why, consider a 'net search for \"\"why not use 100% infill\"\" for more detailed information. The primary foundation for not using 100% infill is that the stress is better distributed over the structure of a non-100% part, while the completely filled part has more intra-layer stress failure. Another link suggests that there's a possibility of increased warping with full infill.\n\nBecause the load is small, it matters very little if you select PLA over ABS. PLA is more brittle compared to ABS and will crack or fracture or break under loads that might otherwise cause the same part in ABS to bend.\n\nIf you need yet more strength, select PETG or nylon, although I suspect either one would be more expensive from a service.\n\nIf you select ABS, you can use acetone smoothing later to make a shiny surface, but that's cosmetic, not structural. \n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5053,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,WhiskerBiscuit,2.1782824847157594,3.861196422461661,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,What infill settings and material type do I need?,\"I’m trying to have this bracket printed, but I don’t know what settings I should use.\n\n\n\nThe project details say 50% for infill, but is there a reason why I wouldn’t get 100% for making it sturdier? I imagine the developer used 50% because he used his own printer and wanted to preserve more material. The 3D printer service I’m using doesn’t charge more for 100%.\n\nBut I’m more concerned about the material I should select. Should I select PLA or ABS? The developer didn’t specify this.\n\",TECTEC3 Studios,\"You should use PLA at 215 °C (for better layer adhesion) with 35 percent infill and a shell thickness of 2 mm. Shell thickness is what's crucial here, not necessarily infill. The thicker the shell, the stronger the part. This has a much bigger influence on strength than infill does.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5055,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SpB,2.8153892694839717,4.585832177445193,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.6229190288168605,Nema Stepper used in Flashforge 3D printer,\"I am using Flashforge Creator Pro and a Flashforge Finder\n\n\n\nI want to know which NEMA stepper model is used in each of these two printers, or is it NEMA 17 for both? \n\nTheir model numbers are:\n\n\n42HB40F08AB-04 [W-42MM, L-40MM], and;\n42HD4027-01[W-42MM, L-40MM]\n\n\",TECTEC3 Studios,\"It most likely uses a nema 17 stepper motor. These are the most commonly used stepper motors. Since it is also the same company there is good reason to believe it uses the same steppers. Why must you know, anyways?\n\",0.0,0.0\n5055,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SpB,2.8153892694839717,4.585832177445193,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.6229190288168605,Nema Stepper used in Flashforge 3D printer,\"I am using Flashforge Creator Pro and a Flashforge Finder\n\n\n\nI want to know which NEMA stepper model is used in each of these two printers, or is it NEMA 17 for both? \n\nTheir model numbers are:\n\n\n42HB40F08AB-04 [W-42MM, L-40MM], and;\n42HD4027-01[W-42MM, L-40MM]\n\n\",galamdring,\"Nema 17 is about the physical size of the motor, ie screw hole placement. It doesn't specify anything about the power of the motor. If you are looking to replace the motor, you need quite a bit more info than that it is Nema 17, such as the steps/rotation and the holding torque.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5062,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Brendan Smith,2.8153892694839717,6.023942955379311,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,How to make walls thicker using meshmixer or meshlab,\"I have been working at converting game files into 3d files that can be printed, but many of the models have very thin or walls. I was wondering if there was a way to increase the thickness of the walls using meshmixer or meshlab.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Only today, I learned of a solution for this sort of objective, but it uses Fusion 360 rather than Meshmixer or Meshlab. As your question does not include that program, I'll toss the Meshmixer method.\n\nThis image is of the model prior to modification:\n\n\n\nWhen you load your STL file into MM, use Edit, Generate Face Groups. This will cause the surfaces to change color. Click Accept.\n\nWith face groups created:\n\n\n\nIf you can be assured of all one surface, use Select, then double click on the interior. This should turn the entire interior red. If you discover unselected surfaces, simply click on those surfaces until all is completed. If you select a surface in error, use Shift-Click to clear that one surface.\n\nOnce selected, the select menu gives you a new edit menu. \nUse Edit, Offset for yet another menu. As you make changes in the menu settings, you'll see the results on the model. Ideally, you won't have an overly complex model with too many facets/triangles, as it can really bog a machine down.\n\nThis particular model has a nearly uniform interior. Double clicking on the inside surface caused the full cylinder (not the bottom) to be selected (turning red).\n\nLow accuracy offset, with surfaces still selected:\n\n\n\nFor smoothest results, keep the accuracy high. Any protruberance in the interior will give very strange results.\n\nHigh accuracy results, surfaces selected:\n\n\n\nExperiment with the settings, aim for the best result and click accept. As long as you don't export the model over your original, all experimentation is a learning experience and not a destructive one.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5062,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Brendan Smith,2.8153892694839717,6.023942955379311,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,How to make walls thicker using meshmixer or meshlab,\"I have been working at converting game files into 3d files that can be printed, but many of the models have very thin or walls. I was wondering if there was a way to increase the thickness of the walls using meshmixer or meshlab.\n\",Brendan Smith,\"I figured out how to do it by using the make solid tool.\n\nEdit: I selected the whole model using control and selected make solid. Set the mode from fast to accurate. I set the solid accuracy and mesh density to anywhere from 300 to 500. Then I slowly increase offset distance until the holes are sealed. I leave the minimum thickness at 0 because it doesn't appear to help much. When I'm satisfied, I click accept. I usually use the reduce feature to make the file smaller, but it isn't required. Sorry about leaving an unhelpful answer. Hope this helps people.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n5877,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Brendan Smith,1.726248027126092,4.3847269673725195,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Black surface in Meshmixer,\"I was working on a model today and I need to make the black surface into a normal surface so that the ship's cockpit is solid. I am unable to select the black surface. I tried using the flip normals feature, but I was still unable to select it. Any advice on how to make it into a solid is greatly appreciated. Thanks. :)\n\nEdit: Here's the link to the file\nhttps://drive.google.com/file/d/1mbTdeeZqhNJx-WlXNqF8mD8QYDSI3Vh_/view?usp=sharing\n\n\n\",fred_dot_u,\"With the model file available, I was able to use Edit, Generate Face Groups. This allows one to continue with Select, {set small cursor}, select reversed panels, Edit, Flip Normals.\n\nThe above steps resolve the cockpit windows, but meshmixer's Analysis, Inspector shows a sea-urchin-presentation of other flaws, including what appears to be zero thickness walls in some locations.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5877,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Brendan Smith,1.726248027126092,4.3847269673725195,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Black surface in Meshmixer,\"I was working on a model today and I need to make the black surface into a normal surface so that the ship's cockpit is solid. I am unable to select the black surface. I tried using the flip normals feature, but I was still unable to select it. Any advice on how to make it into a solid is greatly appreciated. Thanks. :)\n\nEdit: Here's the link to the file\nhttps://drive.google.com/file/d/1mbTdeeZqhNJx-WlXNqF8mD8QYDSI3Vh_/view?usp=sharing\n\n\n\",Trish,\"Opening the file in Meshmixer and then using the Analysis > Inspector tool creates a colorful note, showing LOTS of errors in this model: \n\n\n\nA lot of the magenta errors, a few blue ones. Magenta means \"\"this detail has a small surface area, we'd delete it\"\". Blue means \"\"Here's a hole in the surface, we'd stitch it\"\". The black surface is pink as are some details we want to preserve, so let's change what is considered small: Pushing the Small Thresh to the left (0 mm) removes all the pink and leaves only blue and a few red spots. Like the windscreens, they are red now.\n\n\n\nRed means \"\"here are some non-manifold regions, we'd create a surface to fix this\"\". After clicking on Auto Repair All it looks like this, having fixed a lot of these pins but definitely not all of them, as the MeshMixer engine runs against its limits trying to fix this sea urchin. But it is much better.\n\n\n\nThis is still a messed up model containing 416 non-closed shells (only 401 after repair), but now there is a surface at the windows, yet not a very good one. Another example of this model's many errors: the port intake consists of 17 times the same thing copy-pasted next to itself - and it has no lower surface, making this just an open surface and not a solid object\n\n\n\nIn my honest opinion, it would be more effective to fix this with Blender on a vertex level and stitching all the orphaned surfaces together. This model was most likely made for a video game and fixing up game models for 3D printing is at times pretty much recreating it from scratch.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5921,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Brendan Smith,2.8153892694839717,3.264951048124368,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,How to heat up a Printrbot's hotend using an SD card,\"My Printrbot simple metal's extruder is jammed and I need to heat it up to unjam it. Unfortunately, the printer does't want to connect to my laptop regardless of the program I'm using (Repetier-Host or Cura 15). \n\nIs there a way to use a micro SD card to heat up the printer hotend but not print anything?\n\",Brendan Smith,\"I heated it up and was able to extract some plastic that had gotten jammed in the hot ends opening. \n\nI heated up the hotend by commenting out all the other lines of code in Cura's start and end G-code tabs (must have missed some because the printer moved. I would just unplug the printer when it stopped moving). I used an SD card but it would probably work with USB too. I tried to force the filament in to force the jam out of the hotend, but that did nothing.\n\nI took apart the extruder assembly and discovered that a section of filament that was too wide got stuck in the hotend's entrance. I pulled the filament out using me multitool and put the extruder back together. Hope this helps others with a similar problem.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5921,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Brendan Smith,2.8153892694839717,3.264951048124368,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,How to heat up a Printrbot's hotend using an SD card,\"My Printrbot simple metal's extruder is jammed and I need to heat it up to unjam it. Unfortunately, the printer does't want to connect to my laptop regardless of the program I'm using (Repetier-Host or Cura 15). \n\nIs there a way to use a micro SD card to heat up the printer hotend but not print anything?\n\",profesor79,\"Sure there is. As you use Cura, you can grab any G-code file (you already have) and use it to set hotend temperature (delete the actual printing part from the file) to get something like this:\n\n;FLAVOR:Marlin\n;TIME:102\n;Filament used: 0.0573674m\n;Layer height: 0.2\n;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.3.1\n; M190 S60 ;-> this sets the bed temperature so we can comment it out\n; the next line sets the hotend to 200 degrees Celsius\nM104 S200\n\n\nAs every line that starts with a semi-colon is a comment and is ignored by the printer, M104 S200, would be the only line you need in the printout file.\n\nIf you're interested in knowing more - look here: G-codes on reprap wiki\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n5066,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Daniël van den Berg,3.0576060275493275,4.601642217657733,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,\"Nozzle always \"\"randomly\"\" moves to 0 during print, then resumes\",\"I recently bought an Anet A8 (https://pevly.com/anet-a8-3d-printer-review/). I've managed to get everything up and running, leveled the board, but am now running into a problem.\n\nAt the start of the print, the printer moves to 0,0,0, bumps into the switches a couple times (I assume to calibrate or so?), and then starts \"\"printing\"\". But the nozzle \"\"randomly\"\" moves to either an X of 0 or an Y of 0 before returning to the printing position. This movement seems to pull off any basis the printer managed to lay down, which then forms a nice \"\"ball\"\" on the nozzle, to which the rest gets stuck. (I'm still having some other issues with getting the filament to stick to the bed, but there's plenty I still have to try out for that.)\n\nDuring one attempt of printing a very simple small cube, I carefully pulled the filament \"\"ball\"\" from the nozzle while it did one of those movements to X 0, and afterwards it managed to lay down the bottom layer perfectly fine. This causes me to believe those movements are the biggest problem I'm facing right now.\n\nAfter it did the first layer, it moved up a bit, moved to X 0, back to the model, and got stuck on a piece of plastic that was standing upwards.\n\nThese movements seem to happen at around the same phase in the print, and happen quite consistently. Is this normal behavior? If so, how do I make sure the filament does not get pulled off during these weird movements? If not, how do I get rid of them?\n\n(No, not a duplicate of Printer randomly moves to home during printing, then resumes as normal as I print directly from PC.)\n\n\n\nEdit to add more information:\n\nI use Cura 3.0.4 for printing, the stock Anet A8 firmware, and am attempting to print the cube model that comes with Windows 10. (Yes, I've tried different models, same result.)\n\nI seem to have more issues, in the video it's visible that the feeding does not seem to work too great, but I think the random movements are the most clear and biggest problem right now, so I should tackle that first.\n\nIn Cura I've used the Pruisa I3 printer, with the following G-codes:\n\nG21 ;metric values\nG90 ;absolute positioning\nM82 ;set extruder to absolute mode\nM107 ;start with the fan off\nG28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops\nG28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops\nG29\nG1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length\nG1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again\nG1 F9000\nM117 Printing...\n\n\nand end\n\nM104 S0 ;extruder heater off\nM140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)\nG91 ;relative positioning\nG1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure\nG1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F9000 ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more\nG28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way\nM84 ;steppers off\nG90 ;absolute positioning\n\n\n(Yes, I added in the G29 in the start code manually, as I bought the official auto-leveling sensor. I'm not sure if it works though, but I read somewhere that I might need a different version of the firmware to support it properly.)\n\nAnd here's a video showing what my printer does do exactly. It started printing from the center in this case, it seems to randomly either move to the middle or to 0,0,0 when I abort the print.\n\",Hacky,\"I see two problems in your video:\n\n\nIt looks like the first layer is built too much upwards. (The level calibration should be so that a Z-height of 0 can barely fit a sheet of paper under the nozzle. )\nYour printer is not extruding at all. As you said, the extrusion has some problems. Extrusion problems will cause adhesion problems too. \n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5066,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Daniël van den Berg,3.0576060275493275,4.601642217657733,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,\"Nozzle always \"\"randomly\"\" moves to 0 during print, then resumes\",\"I recently bought an Anet A8 (https://pevly.com/anet-a8-3d-printer-review/). I've managed to get everything up and running, leveled the board, but am now running into a problem.\n\nAt the start of the print, the printer moves to 0,0,0, bumps into the switches a couple times (I assume to calibrate or so?), and then starts \"\"printing\"\". But the nozzle \"\"randomly\"\" moves to either an X of 0 or an Y of 0 before returning to the printing position. This movement seems to pull off any basis the printer managed to lay down, which then forms a nice \"\"ball\"\" on the nozzle, to which the rest gets stuck. (I'm still having some other issues with getting the filament to stick to the bed, but there's plenty I still have to try out for that.)\n\nDuring one attempt of printing a very simple small cube, I carefully pulled the filament \"\"ball\"\" from the nozzle while it did one of those movements to X 0, and afterwards it managed to lay down the bottom layer perfectly fine. This causes me to believe those movements are the biggest problem I'm facing right now.\n\nAfter it did the first layer, it moved up a bit, moved to X 0, back to the model, and got stuck on a piece of plastic that was standing upwards.\n\nThese movements seem to happen at around the same phase in the print, and happen quite consistently. Is this normal behavior? If so, how do I make sure the filament does not get pulled off during these weird movements? If not, how do I get rid of them?\n\n(No, not a duplicate of Printer randomly moves to home during printing, then resumes as normal as I print directly from PC.)\n\n\n\nEdit to add more information:\n\nI use Cura 3.0.4 for printing, the stock Anet A8 firmware, and am attempting to print the cube model that comes with Windows 10. (Yes, I've tried different models, same result.)\n\nI seem to have more issues, in the video it's visible that the feeding does not seem to work too great, but I think the random movements are the most clear and biggest problem right now, so I should tackle that first.\n\nIn Cura I've used the Pruisa I3 printer, with the following G-codes:\n\nG21 ;metric values\nG90 ;absolute positioning\nM82 ;set extruder to absolute mode\nM107 ;start with the fan off\nG28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops\nG28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops\nG29\nG1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length\nG1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again\nG1 F9000\nM117 Printing...\n\n\nand end\n\nM104 S0 ;extruder heater off\nM140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)\nG91 ;relative positioning\nG1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure\nG1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F9000 ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more\nG28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way\nM84 ;steppers off\nG90 ;absolute positioning\n\n\n(Yes, I added in the G29 in the start code manually, as I bought the official auto-leveling sensor. I'm not sure if it works though, but I read somewhere that I might need a different version of the firmware to support it properly.)\n\nAnd here's a video showing what my printer does do exactly. It started printing from the center in this case, it seems to randomly either move to the middle or to 0,0,0 when I abort the print.\n\",Daniël van den Berg,\"I switched to different firmware, now the problem has been resolved. So it seems to me that those random movements are not in fact normal, but a flaw in the firmware.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n7771,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Daniël van den Berg,2.1782824847157594,4.329476789776803,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,How to repair burnt heat bed connector?,\"My Anet A8 suddenly had issues with being unable to heat the bed. After ruling out software issues, I disconnected the connector and found this (sorry for the terrible quality):\n\n\n\nThe left most pin on the male connector (bed) is also charred. How could I best repair this?\n\",Trish,\"New Bed (Connection)\n\nYou will at least need a new female connector, but as the connector burnt, you have some underlying problem that made the connector burn in the first place: either the board is sending bad signals to the bed, or the bed is not rated for the board or you just had a faulty connector (the most usual culprit). Honestly? Replace the whole connector for a properly rated and intact pair - these pin connectors are not rated for 12 V at all but for 5 V!\n\nIf you don't use a beefier connector, solder the wires directly to the bed.\n\nSafety first!\n\nAnet isn't known for good firmware implementation of safety, so make twice sure that you run a firmware that has Thermal Runaway Protection enabled!\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7771,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Daniël van den Berg,2.1782824847157594,4.329476789776803,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,How to repair burnt heat bed connector?,\"My Anet A8 suddenly had issues with being unable to heat the bed. After ruling out software issues, I disconnected the connector and found this (sorry for the terrible quality):\n\n\n\nThe left most pin on the male connector (bed) is also charred. How could I best repair this?\n\",0scar,\"Owning an Anet A8 I confirm that the connectors are not rated for the amount of current that pass through them. You do not need a new bed unless the heat element has burned through (but that is pretty uncommon, it usually is the connector). This burning of the bed connectors is a very well known problem of the Anet A8 printers; these connectors are just not rated for the current and the movement of the bed. It is best not to use a connector at all! And yes, the Anet A8 default printer firmware does not have any build in protection for thermal runaway! It is always advised to immediately flash another firmware, e.g. Marlin firmware. \n\nThe best repair is to get some high quality silicone AWG 14/16 wires and solder these directly onto the back of the pins of the connector. Also crimp forks to the other end to connect the wires correctly to the printer board.\n\nWhat I did was cutting up the connector to leave only the 2 middle pins (for connecting the bed thermistor, which does not use much power) and soldered the red wire to the left 2 pins and the black to the right 2 pins. You can do that at the back side of the socket where the pins make an angle.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n5067,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jason Shweky,1.726248027126092,2.877598637377739,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,MakerFlex Spool has bubbles?,\"I ordered a 0.5 KG spool of Makerflex Glow in the Dark filament from Makergeeks. I ordered Clear and Opaque PLA with it. The Makerflex plastic is called TPEE. The entire spool of it seems to have small bubbles in it. I even confirmed this by cutting one of the bubbles, and I could fit a small piece of metal inside, so it is not just a funky coloring. Does anyone know if this is normal? I can't get in touch with Makergeeks themselves. Will it damage my printer? I have a stock Tevo Tarantula.\n\",cmm,\"Bubbles are a defect. Two problems can occur:\n\n\nThe air in the bubble will be under pressure when heated and can cause a little blow-out when the plastic sides of the bubble are soft enough that they can no longer contain the pressure. Depending on where this happens, it can either result in little spatters of filament being spit through the nozzle at the printed object, expanded craters which could increase the diameter of the filament and make extrusion more difficult, or, if at the end of a print job, the expanded filament may cool and be too large diameter to feed for the next print job.\nIf the air escapes without causing any other problem or it was created by cavitation, the volume of the bubble causes under extrusion, since it represents missing plastic. The extrusion volume is controlled by driving a specific linear distance of filament and assuming a specific filament diameter and 100% plastic. Underextrusion hurts print quality, print strength, and surface finish.\n\n\nBubbles in the filament indicate a failure in the filament manufactury. As @Granny said in the comment, this is defective filament which should be returned for a refund. If you use it, understand that it will not give results that are the best your printer can deliver.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5078,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joe,3.267423727073639,3.8160562480368836,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,SVG to STL conversion to make symbols recognisable for visually impaired users,\"I work on communication devices for people with disabilities that prevent them from speaking. This can be anything from a board with symbols on, to a relatively sophisticated app. \n\nSome potential users also have sight issues and have to distinguish symbols by feel (these particular users have cognitive disabilities and so braile isn't useful) . Currently the solution is to, by hand, stick items onto the buttons. Like this: \n\n\n\nThis is effective, but takes a very long time. \n\nThere exists open symbol libraries like this, that include nice svg images like this one (not uploaded, because SO doesn't like svg, but here's the screenshot: \n\n\n\nA friend converted some of these images into 3d prints like so: \n\n\n\nThis was amazing, and useful, but I understand quite time-intensive for him - and there are thousands of these symbols.\n\nHere's what I want to know: given that SVG is a relatively simple structure and the symbols are very simple, what are the steps for writing the script that says: \"\"Take the svg, map it to a plane, raise everything that is black by 2mm, everything that is gray by 1mm and add height for the rest of the colours according to this table\"\" ? \n\nBonus points for something that I can reasonably get going on a set of 10000 svg files and come back to later...\n\",Ross,\"If you install inkscape, pstoedit and ghostscript version 9.21 (not the latest as pstoedit is incompatible) you can get the file into a format that openscad can \nimport using two commands in a cmd file \n\n\"\"C:\\Program Files\\Inkscape\\inkscape\"\" -E \"\"traffic lights.eps\"\" \"\"traffic lights.svg\"\"\n\"\"C:\\Program Files\\pstoedit\\pstoedit\"\" -dt -f dxf:-polyaslines \"\"traffic lights.eps\"\" \"\"traffic lights.dxf\"\"\n\n\nthen in openscad\n\nlinear_extrude(3) import (\"\"traffic lights.dxf\"\");\n\n\nwill import gives me \n\n\n\nWith a thickness of 3mm - you can see the model needs some scaling but its seems possible although - I can't see an option to scale based on color - \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5078,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joe,3.267423727073639,3.8160562480368836,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,SVG to STL conversion to make symbols recognisable for visually impaired users,\"I work on communication devices for people with disabilities that prevent them from speaking. This can be anything from a board with symbols on, to a relatively sophisticated app. \n\nSome potential users also have sight issues and have to distinguish symbols by feel (these particular users have cognitive disabilities and so braile isn't useful) . Currently the solution is to, by hand, stick items onto the buttons. Like this: \n\n\n\nThis is effective, but takes a very long time. \n\nThere exists open symbol libraries like this, that include nice svg images like this one (not uploaded, because SO doesn't like svg, but here's the screenshot: \n\n\n\nA friend converted some of these images into 3d prints like so: \n\n\n\nThis was amazing, and useful, but I understand quite time-intensive for him - and there are thousands of these symbols.\n\nHere's what I want to know: given that SVG is a relatively simple structure and the symbols are very simple, what are the steps for writing the script that says: \"\"Take the svg, map it to a plane, raise everything that is black by 2mm, everything that is gray by 1mm and add height for the rest of the colours according to this table\"\" ? \n\nBonus points for something that I can reasonably get going on a set of 10000 svg files and come back to later...\n\",Nautis,\"Nothing thats works via scripting BUT is really simple and easy.\n\n\nregister on tinkercad.com (I know register is a bummer but its a great tool)\nopen a new design\nimport *.svg file\nadjust height or size of the converted object\ndownload .stl\n\n\nThats going to take a while for 1000 files but its so simple, printing the stuff will take forever, so you´ve got some time :P\n\nEdit: Maybe edit the topic to something like \"\"SVG to STL conversion\"\" which would make the thread more likely to be found.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5086,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TECTEC3 Studios,2.528907649931287,3.759329766816229,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Is Repetier host able to do multi-material printing?,\"Can Repetier host run a multi-material printer such as the Prusa i3 MK2S?\n\",cmm,\"Yes, it can. I have configured it for as many as four extruders. The problem may be in the slicing, as the slicer is responsible for generating the tool change commands.\n\nOne problem with the Repetier multi-extruder support is that, although the temperature of each extruder is reported by the RepRap firmware response, only the selected extruder is updated, and only one extruder is shown in the temperature graph.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5086,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TECTEC3 Studios,2.528907649931287,3.759329766816229,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Is Repetier host able to do multi-material printing?,\"Can Repetier host run a multi-material printer such as the Prusa i3 MK2S?\n\",mbh16,\"Yes, you can add a second extruder to it.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5090,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TECTEC3 Studios,1.0891412423578797,3.137850340878127,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Cherry 3D printer Nema upgrade,\"I'm currently attempting to build the reprap Cherry 3D printer. I'm doing the Nema 17 upgrade for the printer. I realized that the instructions online are optimized for the 28byj-48 stepper motors. Has anyone built this machine with the Nema 17 upgrades and know what size screws would be best to use?\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"Cherry 3D printer with Nema 17 = Small Prusa i3, so the screws are the same M3 with the length you need according your mounting upgrade.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5116,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TECTEC3 Studios,1.726248027126092,4.2968812063944695,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Is Simplify 3D really worth it?,\"I've heard alot about simplify 3D recently. It sounds like it's a great software, but 150 dollars!? The only thing that seems too different from other slicers is the placable supports, but Z suite has that now as well. Cura must be coming out with placable supports soon if they're going to stay in the game. It does also have dual extrusion, but so does just about every other free slicer out there. I just don't understand what makes it worth 150 US dollars.\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"Well, simplify 3D has more than only placeable supports and I'm very happy with it. I Made my 3D printers and I had headaches with free slicers due I had to review the final result on pronterface, of course this programs was unable to run perfectly on P4 PC's with XP. \n\nWhen I started to change for other programs I recurr to use Cura, getting a nice prints but I had problems with Z offsets and a lot of burrs or \"\"spider threads\"\".\n\nThen I could get simplify 3D, since the first printing I never changed again to other slicers and even Cura. I have set multiple setting for diferent filament types according their better flow temperature and printer type since I use the same program in one PC for 3 printers and planing to get 2 aditional printers.\n\nPrinters are almost free, software not.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5116,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TECTEC3 Studios,1.726248027126092,4.2968812063944695,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Is Simplify 3D really worth it?,\"I've heard alot about simplify 3D recently. It sounds like it's a great software, but 150 dollars!? The only thing that seems too different from other slicers is the placable supports, but Z suite has that now as well. Cura must be coming out with placable supports soon if they're going to stay in the game. It does also have dual extrusion, but so does just about every other free slicer out there. I just don't understand what makes it worth 150 US dollars.\n\",Mick,\"The free slicers are catching up with Simplify3D, and are even overtaking it in some areas, so purchasing it may not make much sense to hobbyists. However, for professional print shops, where printers may cost twenty times as much (or even more), 150 dollars is nothing (especially since it is 150 dollars per PC, not 150 dollars per printer).\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5798,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TECTEC3 Studios,2.528907649931287,4.159403937704199,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Ramps 1.4 with a power brick,\"I'm currently designing a RepRap 3D printer that will not have a heated bed. I have heard that it is possible to use a power brick with commercial printers lacking heatbeds. Is this possible with a RepRap printer using a RAMPS board?\n\nI'm referring specifically to the TronXY X1 power brick. I was wondering if it we're possible to use the same TronXY X1 power brick with a standard RAMPS 1.4 board - rather than the special board the TronXY X1 uses.\n\",Greenonline,\"According to this video, Upgrade TronXY X1 Power Supply with PC Power Supply, which actually shows the power brick, the TronXY power brick is 12 V 5 A. The best screenshot of the brick is shown below:\n\n\n\nThe narrator of the video (as do other sources) states that it runs extremely hot on long print cycles.\n\nAn example replacement power supply, on AliExpress, Tronxy 3D printer accessoires power supply 240W AC110/220V DC 12V 20A for 3D print DIY kit part, is rated at 20 A.\n\nSo, in theory any 12 V 10-15+ A rated laptop power brick should suffice.\n\nHowever, that was not your question. As a standard RAMPS board also runs at 12 V, then yes, you can use the TronXY power brick with a standard RAMPS board. \n\nNevertheless, would you want to? It would seem advisable to get a higher rated power brick1. That way, you can run the printer harder and longer without the risk of the power supply dying (or worse, catching fire) and if, at a later stage, you want to add a heated bed, then you'll be able to use the same supply brick.\n\n\n\n1 I think the biggest laptop 12 V supply I've seen was 15 A on eBay. Earler Xbox 360 bricks go up to 16.5 A. Both of these still get rather warm, due to their (admittedly convenient) black plastic casing. It might be better to get a standard, well ventilated, aluminium cased 20-35 A LED power supply, as in the AliExpress link above.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5798,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TECTEC3 Studios,2.528907649931287,4.159403937704199,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Ramps 1.4 with a power brick,\"I'm currently designing a RepRap 3D printer that will not have a heated bed. I have heard that it is possible to use a power brick with commercial printers lacking heatbeds. Is this possible with a RepRap printer using a RAMPS board?\n\nI'm referring specifically to the TronXY X1 power brick. I was wondering if it we're possible to use the same TronXY X1 power brick with a standard RAMPS 1.4 board - rather than the special board the TronXY X1 uses.\n\",profesor79,\"As long as you provide enough energy to heat the nozzle and keep its temperature, that is possible, as steppers power usually is limited by driver to reduce noise.\n\nsee the attached video: A fully mobile printer example here\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6688,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TECTEC3 Studios,2.528907649931287,3.2292362727989086,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,MKS board losing power after endstop installation,\"I just bought an MKS gen v1.3, and everything on it works fine except for when I plug in the endstops. My X endstop works perfectly in every endstop outlet, but when I plug in my Z and Y endstops, the entire board loses power. Immediately after I unplug the endstop, the board turns back on. I've had these endstops for a while, so could it just be that the endstops are shot, or could there be something wrong with my board?\n\nI'm using repetier firmware 0.92, as well as the latest release of repetier host software.\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"Have you tried plugging in the plugging the Z and/or Y end stops into the X position? This could tell you if it's actually the end stops or the board.\n\nEDIT: Also, if the Z and/or Y end stops seem to work just fine in the X position, ensure you have the X position filled and try the other end stops in the Z & Y positions. It may be a case where having multiple positions on the board filled might be causing you an issue. This would point back at the board and not the end stops.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5099,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FMK,1.0891412423578797,3.534665295714933,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Fusion 360 M3D Slicer,\"I have created a design with fusion 360. I tried to print it with my M3D Pro printer but it seems the designs have a flaw. \n\nIf I try to print the bottom part, the second layer is wrong. It seems to have moved to the left by a few centimeters.\n\nHere is the link to the .stl files and pictures of how the first few layers turned out.\n\nhttps://seafile.fmk.me/d/09e43aa7fc8e416ab187/\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe bottom.stl file can be loaded and viewed in the m3d software but leads to faulty print after the first layer. The top.stl cannot even be viewed in the M3D software.\n\nOther 3D files from thingiverse etc. can be printed without a problem.\nDo I need to enable any special features to be able to print those files correctly?\n\nYours, Felix\n\",fred_dot_u,\"FMK, I loaded the two STL files, top.stl and bottom.stl into Meshmixer. Using Analysis, Inspector, no errors were found in the models. I then loaded the STL files into my slicer, Simplify3D. Due to common Y/Z exchange, the models were loaded in a vertical orientation. It was simple enough to use \"\"Place surface on bed\"\" to get things \"\"squared up.\"\"\n\nThe g-code preview showed also no failure points.\n\nMy first suggestion would be to ensure that you have your model flat to the bed. I've run into too many Thingiverse models that the creator made with a non-zero planar reference, that is, the model was tilted a few degrees.\n\nYou say that you created the model in Fusion 360, which would imply that your model is square to the plane.\n\nI'm not familiar with M3D software, but if you have the option to use a different slicer, use Slic3r or Cura to see if you have the same results.\n\nAs it stands, I'd consider no fault in the model files.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5099,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FMK,1.0891412423578797,3.534665295714933,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Fusion 360 M3D Slicer,\"I have created a design with fusion 360. I tried to print it with my M3D Pro printer but it seems the designs have a flaw. \n\nIf I try to print the bottom part, the second layer is wrong. It seems to have moved to the left by a few centimeters.\n\nHere is the link to the .stl files and pictures of how the first few layers turned out.\n\nhttps://seafile.fmk.me/d/09e43aa7fc8e416ab187/\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe bottom.stl file can be loaded and viewed in the m3d software but leads to faulty print after the first layer. The top.stl cannot even be viewed in the M3D software.\n\nOther 3D files from thingiverse etc. can be printed without a problem.\nDo I need to enable any special features to be able to print those files correctly?\n\nYours, Felix\n\",FMK,\"Apparently my x belt and/or my x motor is broken. Getting replacement parts fixing the problem!\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5103,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,RishabhX3576,3.0576060275493275,4.43164294010104,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,What else can I use for a 3D Printer frame?,\"I am building a 3d Printer here:\n\n\nBuild Volume: X:300mm, Y:300mm, Z:400mm\nMechanism: 1 motor, 2 leadscrew, 4 rod Z-axis; CoreXY head movement\nBelt: GT2 6mm Steel Core\nPulley & Idler: 20T 6mm, Bore 5mm\nExtruder: E3D Titan, Pancake NEMA 17\nHotend: E3D V6\nMotors: XYZ: 0.9deg NEMA 17 34mm\nElectronics: Mega2560 + RAMPS 1.4, TMC2100, Opto-endstops min & max\nElectrical: SSR, Silicone Heat-mat 600W 300x300mm\nBed: 3-point aluminium\n\n\nProblem is, I can't get V-slots or T-slots easily where I live.\nI can get Steel Rods or Seamless pipes, and Bearings & Drylin bushings.\n\nWhat aluminium profiles can I use to construct a rigid frame and accurate movement?\n\",cmm,\"Were I to build a frame now, I might use 1\"\" square steel tubing members, welded together. You could also use aluminum, but for the same cross-section, the steel will be stronger. It is also easier to weld. If welding is not available, you are limited to shapes which can be bolted together. This is not impossible, but it requires more thoughtful design.\n\nFor the guides for moving or sliding elements, stainless steel drill rod is good. Because it is round, it doesn't constrain rotating motion, so you might need two drill rods, spaced as far apart as your design allows. The twisting force will be harder to manage with rods than it would be with a solid element. If the parts are moving during printing, you could consider stainless steel tube or aluminum rod to keep down the weight.\n\nIf you have the machining ability, instead of rods you could use a T cross-section (steel or aluminum) with wheels rolling on the two outside elements of the T. Machine is likely needed to adjust the profile of the edge to more closely match the wheels (which could be /V\\ shaped), and to make the separation be accurate enough that you wouldn't need a spring element to clamp to the T.\n\nThere are many materials and forms that could work. You are limited only by your fabrication ability and access to materials.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5110,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user8886193,2.528907649931287,5.011364195774974,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,How to design a worm-gear in FreeCAD?,\"I want to print worm gears for my robot arm. I would like to design it in FreeCAD. Normally, I would use involute gear for regular gears. However, this tool cannot be used for worm gears. I can't find any add-ons for this.\n\nIs it possible to produce a worm gear automatically? If not, how can I make it manually?\n\",mac,\"As far as I know there is not a workbench capable of producing the design you want with a single click \"\"new worm gear\"\". But it is a rather simple affair to create the part you want from scratch.\n\nWhat you want to do is to sweep a sketch along a helix. It is a very similar process to the one you would follow to create a thread documented in the official tutorial (it's the \"\"method #3\"\" on that page). This is how it should look like:\n\n\n\nSince helices are subject to a few limitation in FreeCAD, I recommend to read the section called \"\"tricks to success\"\" and the following tips, as it is very likely you will incur in problems otherwise.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n5138,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user8886193,3.0576060275493275,3.6755458889710138,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Are 3D printed gears applicable for industrial use?,\"Are 3D printed gears applicable for industrial use? \n\nI want to print some gears with ABS. \n\n\nWhat will their lifespan be? How long will they last if I use them, for example, every day? \n\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"Well, to determine the time life of the gears you will need to do a test called ALT (Accelerated Life Time) but the parts should be last for a long time (not years) however this can be determined by thickness. \n\nThe torque required is not than much like a tuning up the radio volume, so if you are going to create a gear box to increase torque, just grease the parts to reduce heating on friction.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5138,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user8886193,3.0576060275493275,3.6755458889710138,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Are 3D printed gears applicable for industrial use?,\"Are 3D printed gears applicable for industrial use? \n\nI want to print some gears with ABS. \n\n\nWhat will their lifespan be? How long will they last if I use them, for example, every day? \n\n\",Trish,\"Survivability of parts is a very tricky topic, because a lot of factors go into it. While ABS is a common industrial plastic for molding, FDM introduces quite different challenges that can impact the time a piece lives. I can't estimate a lifetime for you, but I will illustrate why we can't estimate it for you, giving you things to think about in your design process:\n\nProblem 1 - What's the printed internal part geometry?\n\nFDM introduces boundries in 2 (r,z) dimensions . Not just the z layers above each other do have boundries that can and will become plane of failure, each layer consists of one filament1 that was deposited side by side to itself. These neighboring pieces (distinguishable by r in cylindrical coordinates) have a boundry that is not of the same strength as staying on the same piece and following it around (and changing ψ) a solid chunk of ABS (as you would get with molding). under stress, these boundries can crack. If you want to force your piece to have such a fate just to see how it looks: mount a 0.4 mm nozzle in a machine calibrated for 0.35 mm and run a 0.35 mm sliced print - it should be easy to crack it apart into a long snail of filament. Or declare your filament to be 3mm in a 1.75mm machine. The Horrible underextrusion and lack of pressure against already deposited filament makes it possible to unravel the whole filament at times.\n\nProblem 2 - What is the intended use?\n\nUse is not the same as use. Yes, it might sound unintuitive, but depending on how a piece is used, stress on the part is different. Let's take the same two gears. We put one of them in a hand mixer and a superlight drone. In the mixer it will spin rapidly against medium to tough loads (depending on dough) over medium periods (the timeframe here is usually minutes at max) of time. In the drone it will have considerably less load, but it will spin for much longer, maybe up to hours if the pilot is very capeable and the batteries last. In both cases wear and tear will be quite different.\n\nProblem 3 - What determines strength?\n\nStrength of the part is not only determined by the filament used, it is ALSO determined by tons of other variables. Print orientation. With enclosure or not. Humidity during print. If the surface of the part is sealed or not after the print. If it was postprocessed somehow to increase capabilities. If the piece is printed hollow or solid. How long did it cure or harden after the print... There are so many variables, that each guess would be quite wild.\n\nProblem 4 - How to get the lifetime now?!\n\nYou can't guesstimate the reliability of a product from its design and makeup only. That is why design departments create prototypes: To rigerously test the products. This is how they learn how safe or sturdy their product is. They make prototypes and purposefully put them under various kinds of stress until they break. For gears this involves spinning them in a gearbox for hours nonstop until they break, force them against a blokaded gearbox till they break, run the gearbox dry, hot or freezing, and also under other very destructive conditions. Part of this destructive test is an accelerated life time test that, just like other tests in this stage, tries to find out the maximum parameters it is useable with. A common test for hand mixers apparently is to run them 2 minutes against some gooy substance, then stop some time before repeating.\n\n\n\n1 - For the math inclined: the filament can be represented as a function in cylidrical coordinates, f(r,φ,z)=r(ψ)*φ(ψ)+z(ψ), where ψ the path-parameter of the filament - or in other words the length already traveled. To some degree, a G-code is generated by first creating such a function and then creating the tool path from this.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n5537,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user8886193,3.452496054252184,5.72623610958536,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.880918201452841,What is the power consumption of the heatbed and hotend?,\"What is the power consumption of your heatbed (size) and hotend (model)?\n\nI want to verify that it is possible to use a battery to power them.\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"To answer the underlying (X-Y) question, yes it is possible to power a small 3D printer from a battery pack. This Article describes a printer built by Naomi Wu, mounted on a frame to carry around whilst printing, as a 'novel' style of sponsored video. The printer here is a BIQU Delta printer, and the power supply is 2x 3Ah batteries (guessing this is @12V, but it's not clear). Presumably there is no heated bed, but still the run-time will be quite limited.\n\nThe important part for working out battery life is the duty cycle of the hot-end, not the load required to get it up to temperature. This probably comes to something like 15-30 watts on average, provided you can live without a heated bed.\n\nOf course, if you have 10-15v batteries, the printer will probably run off these directly, no need to waste energy converting up to 110/220V and back again.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5537,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user8886193,3.452496054252184,5.72623610958536,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.880918201452841,What is the power consumption of the heatbed and hotend?,\"What is the power consumption of your heatbed (size) and hotend (model)?\n\nI want to verify that it is possible to use a battery to power them.\n\",Ljk2000,\"I have a Kill-A-Watt meter so I got a pretty good measurement for you with my Anet A6. Like Petar said each model is different but this should give you a idea. When heating both the nozzle and heat bed the printer consumes 160 W of power, once to temp it backs down to 9 W (it also uses 9 W when just \"\"sitting doing nothing and is on\"\"). When the nozzle and bed get down in temp it hits back up to 160 W. Basically it is never a consistent heating, it is on and off. Like a refrigerator. \n\nWhen it comes to heating only the nozzle the printer uses 60 W (so 51 W is going to the nozzle for heating).\n\nWhen it comes to heating only the bed the printer uses 142 W (133 W to the bed).\n\nThis is interesting because it would make sense the printer needs more than 160 W when 51 W is going for the nozzle and 142 W going to the bed, that makes 193 W. I make mention of this because that may suggest my power supply is not big enough and the printer could really use around 200 W. \n\nAs a little bonus when the printer is moving around (stepper motors are active) I find it using 35-40 W (or 26-31 W) to power the steppers. \n\nSo with all the said, is it possible to use a battery? Yes, you could. And to give a example a car battery should have 80 Amp-hours (or something like that, but we will go with it). With that battery you can get 960 Wh (Watt-hours) from the battery before it dies. Going with my printer using 160 W I will get 6 hours of printing time. But keep in mind as the battery is used the voltage will drop, so in the end the printer will be getting something like 10 V which I am sure will affect heating and overall performance. \n\nLast thing I feel that needs to be said. If using a inverter to convert the 12 V battery to 110 V (or whatever voltage you use) a cheap one will not be healthy for the printer. Cheap inverters put out square waves instead of sines waves. Basically it will hurt the printer. You can learn more at this WEBSITE\n\n\"\"Update\"\" on March 4\nI read a comment that mentioned running right off the battery without a battery and then I thought of something that I did not think of before. And that would be protecting the battery itself\n\nSo I said you can run the printer off the battery. There was one issue that I had not thought of. And that was the voltage drop and the battery discharged. A battery usually does not have voltage-cut off to keep the battery from being overly discharged, and a printer does not have anything to measure voltage (why should it). So a simple hook up of a 3D printer to a battery is prone to drain the battery much lower than 10 V, which will greatly shorten a battery life-span. This can be prevented two ways. \n\nA circuit between battery and 3D printer. There is plenty of circuits that can be bought as long as they cut power to printer at 10 V or something (for lead acid anyway) and can handle the amperage draw. \n\nAn inverter can also be used because this voltage cut off is already in them. But remember that square waves are bad for the printer. \n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n5541,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user8886193,-2.528907649931287,3.469045931690484,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Heat block design without cartridge heater,\"Is it possible to design a heat block without cartridge heater?\n\nMy idea is to build a very small heat block to increase/decrease the heat as fast as possible. The resistance of the heat block will be used. The current to this block is 500mA and is set constant with a circuit. The voltage will be set with pwm. Is this possible with 500mA and 5V (2,5W)?\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"2.5W of electrical energy defines the heating rate for a specific mass (and thermal capacity of the material). It also determines the highest attainable temperature for a specific emissivity (clue, it won't get hot).\n\nAny switching circuit to match the resistance of a block of metal to a 2.5W power source is a switch mode power supply in disguise. Yes, you can generate 150mV at 16A, but you need very thick wires to avoid loosing most of your generated power in the circuit.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5541,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user8886193,-2.528907649931287,3.469045931690484,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Heat block design without cartridge heater,\"Is it possible to design a heat block without cartridge heater?\n\nMy idea is to build a very small heat block to increase/decrease the heat as fast as possible. The resistance of the heat block will be used. The current to this block is 500mA and is set constant with a circuit. The voltage will be set with pwm. Is this possible with 500mA and 5V (2,5W)?\n\",mac,\"I'm afraid the idea itself is questionable. :)\n\nPart of the reason for having a heat block in the first place is to leverage the volumetric heat capacity of the block to maintain the temperature constant even thought the extrusion speed (and thus the rate at which energy is used to make plastic warm and change state) is not.\n\nA smaller block would probably:\n\n\nrequire a lot more power to operate in order to compensate for the missing thermal inertia (most PSUs are already \"\"stretched\"\" when it comes to power requirements)\ncause the temperature to fluctuate, with negative effects on the print quality\n\n\nA second problem I see is that you would most probably electrify the whole printer:\n\n\ncreating a hazard\naffecting the ground level and thus - potentially - the proper functioning of all electronics\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5117,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,koopa,-1.0891412423578797,3.309844377502676,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.880918201452841,\"I found a filament that can be used for really precise FDM printing, Who could I hire to create a custom nozzle for it\",\"I found this low temperature filament for 3d printing, Low Temperature Filament 0.5kg 1.75mm, White \n\nCorrect me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure I can use it for a really precise nozzle because it's so runny at normal printing temperature, the thing is, you obviously can't get nozzles at the size I'm taking about, so with that said, who could I hire to make one?\n\",user802599,\"I have been looking for some where that could make a custom nozzle and the only place I have found so far that I think might be able to is: https://www.emachineshop.com/ \n\nYou would need to draw up the design of the nozzle in the software on their web site and see if they could make what you want.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5117,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,koopa,-1.0891412423578797,3.309844377502676,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.880918201452841,\"I found a filament that can be used for really precise FDM printing, Who could I hire to create a custom nozzle for it\",\"I found this low temperature filament for 3d printing, Low Temperature Filament 0.5kg 1.75mm, White \n\nCorrect me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure I can use it for a really precise nozzle because it's so runny at normal printing temperature, the thing is, you obviously can't get nozzles at the size I'm taking about, so with that said, who could I hire to make one?\n\",Trish,\"You won't need specialized nozzles, you understand the material wrong:\n\nThe benefit the properties of this material grant is not super fine prints (which you can get with small nozzles like 0.1 mm already), it is that you can print at super low temperatures. Printing it at standard 200°C will mean, that it won't solidify in the time the printer needs it to, and your walls will all melt down - in worst case it boils off and degrades into useless goop!\n\nYou might print PCL onto an already completed print made from a different material with higher printing temperature (if your slicer lets you do that...), like to make a form-shaped piece.\n\nIt's low melting point also means you could print parts with it that you want to deform under low heat, like a standard shaped flat shin and then just dunk it into 60°C water or put onto a (towel shielded) pocket heater before molding it around the patient, making perfect fits from easy transportable (flat) parts. Or you print \"\"rivets\"\", which you heat, put through the holes in other prints and then flatten with a pair of pliers.\n\nAlso, it is one of the cheaper conductive filaments. You might find this article or the RepRap Wiki enlightening.\n\nBeware though: Many printers have a MinTemp set! For example the Ultimaker at 175°C, and you have to force the machine to ignore this with M302.\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n5132,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bob Austin,1.726248027126092,3.1652291071264176,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Powder 3D Printer,\"I purchased a Z Corp Printer more than 10 years ago and wonder what I can do with it now. Everything has gone to the Extrude method rather than the additive method. Am I the proud owner of a fancy boat anchor.\n\n\",fred_dot_u,\"A quick search of the interweb shows that 3D Systems purchased ZCorp many years ago. A short review of the printer prior to the purchase also shows that the printer had, as one of the many negative points, a problem with sourcing printing supplies, as it is considered proprietary.\n\nAdditional searching brought up articles suggesting that one could create the media using common materials or by mixing other common materials, but the article I found did not expound beyond referencing gypsum powder and a couple other \"\"normal\"\" items.\n\nIf you have working software and perform a search for the specific model number combined with the words \"\"printing supplies,\"\" you may find additional insight into creating your own media. One article suggested that you could print with sugar, a rather novel concept.\n\nThe killer with devices of this type is the proprietary handle.\n\nThis appears to be the sort of device that appears on Craigslist or abandoned in an estate sale. If you were local to me, I'd make an offer for the value of the internal components, although I'd also take a shot at printing with sugar or similar granular material. The idea of a laundry detergent Benchy comes to mind.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5139,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thetravellingfool,2.528907649931287,3.3868218217874193,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,Proof that Slicing Plane/STL intersection will only produce Closed-Loop Polygons?,\"I am writing my own slicer and wonder if there is a mathematical proof that proves that the intersection of the slicing plane with the STL file will only produce closed-loop polygons for every given slicing plane?\n\nThanks!\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"You can't prove that because it isn't true. An STL file is just a collection of triangles. There is no guarantee that an intersection with the slicing plane will consist of closed-loop polygons. To be suitable for 3D printing an STL file should represent one or more closed, disjoint polyhedra (which would yield closed-loop polygons) but this is not always the case. Many slicers have heuristics to try and \"\"fix\"\" bad STL files on a best-effort basis. Especially considering the possibility of rounding errors, it is important to at least detect polygons that are almost (but not quite) closed and connect their endpoints together.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n5139,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thetravellingfool,2.528907649931287,3.3868218217874193,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,Proof that Slicing Plane/STL intersection will only produce Closed-Loop Polygons?,\"I am writing my own slicer and wonder if there is a mathematical proof that proves that the intersection of the slicing plane with the STL file will only produce closed-loop polygons for every given slicing plane?\n\nThanks!\n\",user802599,\"I am also trying to write my own slicer and so I would just like to offer some additional information. \n\nWhat you will find is that .stl files just store triangles and don't validate that the triangles assemble to create a printable model so a lot if not most .stl files are going to have data that isn't exactly what you want it to be. So you will want to have additional steps before you get to slicing, to fix up the data you get from the stl file. \n\nA lot of stl models are designed for 3d graphics where intersecting other triangles and not being manifold isn't an issue. So you will probably want to write some code to test your models before trying to slice them. \n\nFor example if you just sliced the layers of the Utah Teapot\n and don't repair the model for 3D printing first you will get two different types of errors. The handle of the teapot does not actually attach to the teapot and is a separate model. And the spout of the teapot is a separate model that intersects the teapot. Both the handle and spout are also open at the ends and not water tight.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7971,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thetravellingfool,2.8153892694839717,4.08659954222661,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,How Do Tool Path Algorithms Decide Which Direction to Print a Closed-Loop Polygon,\"I understand how slicer programs create sets of closed-loop polygons to print on a layer-by-layer basis. For a given closed loop polygon which needs to be printed, the tool path generator will know the coordinates and how those coordinates are connected to each other, such that traversing a set of segments in that order will bring the extruder head back to the first coordinate to complete the closed loop.\n\nMy question is: By what mechanism does the tool path generator decide which direction to traverse the closed loop? As it is a loop, that loop could be printed \"\"clockwise\"\" or \"\"counter-clockwise\"\", as it were. Any details, and links to further explanations of how some of the big-name slicer programs determine this is much appreciated.\n\",Thetravellingfool,\"While this answer makes a valid attempt at answering the question, it is based on personal experience.\n\nI went to the literature and directly to the source code in Cura to find the answer. In the academic article \"\"Identifying the Directions of a Set of 2D Contours for Additive Manufacturing Process Planning\"\", Volpato et al. describe several methods for identifying the arbitrary directions of each contour in each layer, and additionally identifying which contours were \"\"internal\"\" and which were \"\"external\"\". I quote from the paper:\n\n\n The information regarding contour\n direction, which is either clockwise (CW — internal) or\n counterclockwise (CCW — external), is needed for path\n planning for material processing.\n\n\nThey go on to explain the importance of identifying which contours are external, and which are internal, such that the path planning algorithm can later determine where infill should be placed. Infill is placed internal to any external contours, and external to any internal contours. \n\n\n When the normal vectors in STL models\n are assumed to be correct, a simple way to identify whether\n a 2D contour is CW or CCW is to analyze the vector (cross)\n product between a normal vector and a vector obtained from\n two vertices of the facet.\n\n\nThis assumes the slicer has already determined intersection points between slicing planes and the STL file, and has sorted those intersection points into closed-contours. This initial intersection point gathering and contour construction leads to an arbitrary directionality:\n\n\n As any line segment of a contour can be the first in the\n sequence when the segments are connected, its orientation\n will dictate the direction of the contour. Hence, the 2D contours\n formed are classified randomly, and an external contour, for\n example, might be assigned a CW or CCW direction. Therefore, this step is unable to correctly identify the directions of the contours generated.\n \n The ray-tracing method, which is actually based on the\n point-in-polygon test, determines which contours are\n contained by others, and the orientation of each contour is\n then alternated between CCW and CW, the outermost contours being oriented CCW.\n\n\nSo, the default directionality of a closed contour generated by a slicing program for FDM additive manufacturing turns out to be CCW based on cross products described above (and based on additional methods outlined in the paper). Of course the standard directionality of a PRINTED contour does not HAVE to be this way, it appears to be a standard adopted by the AM community. However, when a model produces contours inside of contours, the arbitrary directionality of those contours is determined, and then alternated from outside to inside, starting with CCW. \n\nAs confirmation, according to a simple comment in the CURA source code:\n\n/*!\n * Outer polygons should be counter-clockwise,\n * inner hole polygons should be clockwise.\n * (When negative X is to the left and negative Y is downward.)\n */\n\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n7971,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thetravellingfool,2.8153892694839717,4.08659954222661,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,How Do Tool Path Algorithms Decide Which Direction to Print a Closed-Loop Polygon,\"I understand how slicer programs create sets of closed-loop polygons to print on a layer-by-layer basis. For a given closed loop polygon which needs to be printed, the tool path generator will know the coordinates and how those coordinates are connected to each other, such that traversing a set of segments in that order will bring the extruder head back to the first coordinate to complete the closed loop.\n\nMy question is: By what mechanism does the tool path generator decide which direction to traverse the closed loop? As it is a loop, that loop could be printed \"\"clockwise\"\" or \"\"counter-clockwise\"\", as it were. Any details, and links to further explanations of how some of the big-name slicer programs determine this is much appreciated.\n\",Trish,\"Math\n\nIn math, there is a way how a path is to be followed, and that is usually counterclockwise:\n\nAssuming a perimeter path of a circle with $r=1$ around $(2,2)$, then the path can be defined as $f(p)={{\\cos(p)+2}\\choose{\\sin(p)+2}}$ - where $p$ is the path parameter, in this case an angle of 0 to 360°, and just increasing the angle rotates right hand around. If we had the same path but a different starting point, a shift by $\\theta$, then the path would read $f(p)={{\\cos(p+\\theta)+2}\\choose{\\sin(p+\\theta)+2}}$. So math is usually counterclockwise.\n\nSlicers\n\nEvery slicer is applying math. As far as I can tell, any Slicer generates a perimeter path, which is always performed in the same way if sliced with the same settings. For one case look at this:\n\nCounterclockwise starting from a 7 o clock position in this case. However, other slicers or other objects on the printbed might use other engines, thus doing it not that way. They might go clockwise since solving a path with $p=0°\\to360°$ and solving it $p=360°\\to0°$ results in producing the exact same print, just opposed print direction of the perimeter.\n\nAs long as the perimeter of an object is solved as being done as one closed loop, the perimeter will need to have just one, prescribed direction. This direction will be clockwise or counterclockwise depending on how the slicer exactly solves its calculations. Since both directions are equally valid, it is a programmer's decision. A programmer might even prescribe clockwise or counterclockwise solution based on any factor they wanted. They might use layer number (for alternating directions) or a user setting or even an RNG, if they wanted to.\n\nOn the other hand, how the memory is operated and written can also result in the path and the math looking differently. Two examples:\n\n\nSolving the path correctly counterclockwise and putting the slicing into a FILO memory, resulting in a clockwise operation starting from the last solved point.\nSolving counterclockwise and saving into FIFO, running counterclockwise.\n\n\nConclusion\n\nSlicers for 3D printing have a hard-coded way to choose the direction that is followed when producing G-code. Any and all perimeters will be printed, starting from some arbitrary point, into that direction. In the end, it is a choice of the programmer of the slicing engine that determines if the path is to be run down \"\"forward\"\" or \"\"backward\"\" in mathematical sense.\n\nAddendum\n\nSlicers are derived from CAM programming. CAM - computer assisted machining - takes into account one more thing when solving the tool path that is not relevant to a 3D printer: The direction of the fluting of the tool. In fact, this one will determine into which direction the path will give a better cut and changing the fluting should swap the path direction to ensure best results.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n5157,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,gabi,2.1782824847157594,3.293352546145431,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,\"How to draw cube with cone (Dreidel like), using Onshape?\",\"I want to draw a cube with cone using Onshape. \n\nI need the cone to \"\"shave\"\" the corners of the cube, till it gets to the middle point.\n\nThis is diagram I made:\n\n\n\nWhat is the best way to do it?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"After rejecting the intense interrogation process for signing up with Onshape, I've settled for a general description based on common practices in 3D modeling.\n\nYou would create the rectangular solid representing the cube, as well as another rectangular (or cylindrical) solid slightly larger than the first one.\n\n\n\nCreate also a cone shape with the dimensions appropriate to the segment you wish to have remaining on the first solid.\n\nUsing Boolean operator or the equivalent, subtract/difference the cone shape from the second solid, resulting in a \"\"pencil point\"\" shape of empty space in the second solid.\n\n\n\nThe skirt of the cone is barely visible in the image above and is transparent, the TinkerCAD™ version of subtraction. \n\nOnce grouped in TinkerCAD™, the entire cube becomes a subtractive body.\n\n\n\nPlace it in the appropriate position over the first solid and perform a second subtraction/difference or Boolean equivalent.\n\n\n\nAs one may note, the original cube was not tall enough and had to be stretched to provide the desired result. Not visible in this image is that the subtractive shape was not centered on the cube and resulted in an off-center final solid. Easily corrected with alignment tools, but an important aspect when performing Boolean operations. Control-Z is your friend.\n\n\n\nThe above steps work with OpenSCAD™ as well as Fusion360™ and even within TinkerCAD™ but the specific steps/sequence varies from one program to the other, of course. This example was performed in TinkerCAD™ because it was the fastest method. Fusion360™ would have stretched my abilities to accomplish the same result, due to my minimal experience with that platform.\n\nI am not surprised to discover and easily locate an exact tutorial for OnShape™ that covers the boolean subtraction process. The images are complex within the tutorial, but the process and concepts are identical. The video accompanying the tutorial is also well done and explains clearly the steps involved.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n5160,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kapil Singh Rawat,1.0891412423578797,4.476536269479347,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,\"How to automatically add support and \"\"base\"\" to the model I am printing?\",\"Most of time my prints fail due to lack of support and \"\"base\"\" for the 3D model. I'd like to know if there is any software that can automatically check my model, and add support and a \"\"base\"\" to it, if required.\n\",Trish,\"This program type you seek for is called a slicer. However, you got to manually choose support structure and rafting - the tricky part is getting the configuration right for your build. To my knowledge there are no slicers that decide automatically to raft unless you configure to raft always and you have to enable support.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n5164,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Fox Ia,2.8153892694839717,4.383596698108321,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,How to switch E0 to E1 for extruder?,\"I have a K280 3D printer with a MKS V1.5 and Repetier firmware.\n\n\n\nI’ve damaged the transistor associated with E0 (3rd one on the right) and so that means I need to avoid that. I’ve decided to switch to E1 for the extruder but I have a feeling I need to go in the firmware or Repetier host and manipulate that. \n\nI don’t know how and any help would be great. \n\nThe only info I can access for the firmware is the EEPROM and it seems that I can’t edit the pins. Also, do I need to edit the pin for the sensor or just where the extruder goes?\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"You can try editing the gcodes by searching and replacing E0 for E1, so this way the extruder E1 will be enabled.\n\nOther way is setting the Slicer to use 2 extruders but everything for printing on E1 like: Perimeter, Infill, Solid, Support/raft/skirt, Support / raft interface.\n\nThe third one, Switch the transistor from E1 to E0 (your Q2 for Q1) or Q3 if you are not using the FAN output.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5164,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Fox Ia,2.8153892694839717,4.383596698108321,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,How to switch E0 to E1 for extruder?,\"I have a K280 3D printer with a MKS V1.5 and Repetier firmware.\n\n\n\nI’ve damaged the transistor associated with E0 (3rd one on the right) and so that means I need to avoid that. I’ve decided to switch to E1 for the extruder but I have a feeling I need to go in the firmware or Repetier host and manipulate that. \n\nI don’t know how and any help would be great. \n\nThe only info I can access for the firmware is the EEPROM and it seems that I can’t edit the pins. Also, do I need to edit the pin for the sensor or just where the extruder goes?\n\",0scar,\"If you go through the Repetier-Firmware configuration tool for version 1.0.2 you can select the E1 stepper for the E0 extruder (or whatever stepper you want to use for it) in the tools tab sheet. I'm not familiar with Repetier, but if that does not work you would have to switch pin numbers. \n\nIf you already have a Configuration.h, you can use that one (by loading it into the configuration tool) and alter the E1 afterwards so that you do not have to enter all the other options by yourself.\n\nEdit: After some investigation, you can find your configuration file here as described here, so the only thing you would have to do is to load the file in the online tool and adjust the E1 stepper for E0 extruder.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5171,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,3ORZ,2.528907649931287,4.401460756619474,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"XYZ cube's layer is shifted, How can I check my TEVO Tarantula axis?\",\"I just bought new TEVO Tarantula and tried to print xyz cube. I found that my cube's layer was shifted as showed in picture. How can I fix this ?\n\n\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"The two most common things to check:\n1) make sure your belts are properly tensioned. If there's significant slippage in the y-drive you could get the results seen.\n2) Make sure the base layer is well attached to the base plate. you've got plenty of reference pattern on the plate shown, so check whether the lower chunk of print moved relative to the imprinted pattern at some point. \n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5171,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,3ORZ,2.528907649931287,4.401460756619474,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"XYZ cube's layer is shifted, How can I check my TEVO Tarantula axis?\",\"I just bought new TEVO Tarantula and tried to print xyz cube. I found that my cube's layer was shifted as showed in picture. How can I fix this ?\n\n\n\",Valmond,\"\nDo your belt goes Sproing when playing it with a finger (actually it doesn't really need to make a noise, but it should be somehow reasonable quite tight). If not, tighten the belt.\nTry with lower speed, for example, it is usually hard to start off with 60mm/s or more. Try 40mm/s or 30mm/s for starters.\nUp the current on your drivers! You do this by turning the potentiometer on the driver (here the X-motor driver):\n\n\nTo adjust the current on your stepper driver, this is a classic scheme:\n\nWith power on:\n\n1) Turn the potentiometer on the driver counter clockwise until you can move the motor by hand.\n\n2) Turn clockwise until you can't turn the motor by hand\n\n3) Continue clockwise until you can turn the motor again (as soon as you feel it can't hold really hard anymore, stop).\n\n4) Turn 1/4 of a turn (or maybe a bit less) counter clock wise.\n\nDone!\n\nIf the current is too low, it will skip steps, especially when traveling / accelerating fast/hard.\n\nIf the current is too high, the motor will be, really, hot. A bit hot is okay, like 50°C can be considered a really safe maximum (it all depends of course, some motors can run at 80+ others could bake your electronics because it's placed badly etc.).\n\nIf this doesn't cut it, you want to check your drivers; If you can, switch X and Y driver:\n\n\nIf now the Y layer doesn't work, it could be the driver.\nIf it still breaks the X axis, your motherboard might be fried.\n\n\nI also encourage you to post more information about print speeds, temperature and so on. It seems like it's a Prusa i3 clone and there are a lot of people having them and they can probably help better if this didn't cut it so please post all data available!\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5355,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,3ORZ,1.0891412423578797,5.744596080856192,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Z height incorrect on calibration cube,\"I tried to print 30mm calibration cube with my TEVO Tarantula. I found that a few bottom layers was missing as shown in picture. I noticed that a few bottom layers looks thin during printing. Anyone know how can I solve this ? \n\n\n\n\n\",mac,\"\n Anyone know how can I solve this ? \n\n\nIn order to know how to fix it, you must first diagnose what the problem is.\n\nTwo things you should verify in Slic3r:\n\n\nCheck that under \"\"printer settings\"\" the Z offset is really what you want it to be (if you don't know what that is, you want it at zero).\nCheck that in the preview (Plater plane, the \"\"preview\"\" tab is on the bottom), you can actually see the bottom layers being generated by the slicer (you can verify this by moving up and down the slider on the right of the main window).\n\n\nIf both of these checks are positive, then the problem is probably not with the slicer but with the printer or printer setup. The ultimate proof of this would be to try another slicer like for example cura.\n\nIf the problem is with the printer, the only obvious one I can think of, is that the bed is too high, the nozzle touches is, and the plastic cannot be extruded for the first few layers.\n\nYou can confirm or refuse this hypothesis by simply observing the printer while in operation. If it is the case:\n\n\nyou should observe the nozzle moving \"\"as if\"\" it was extruding the first layers\nthe nozzle should be touching the bed\nvery little plastic should remain onto the bed\nyou should hear some grinding or clicking noise from the stepper motor of the extruder (as the printer will try to push the filament, but the filament will have nowhere to go)\n\n\nIf you realise this is the problem, stop the print immediately: this is the typical situation in which you could generate a clog in the cold end of your extruder, which is not a permanent damage, but fixing it is a somewhat complex and tedious procedure.\n\nThe good news is that if this is the problem, the solution is trivial: you should simply set the nozzle height correctly. How to do this changes from printer to printer and you should refer to the user manual of your printer. Here is a video showing a few of the most common method to achieve that.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n8547,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,3ORZ,2.1782824847157594,3.33123292709302,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,da Vinci 1.0 cannot print PLA filament,\"I bought new yellow PLA filament from XYZ (1.75 mm). \n\nOver the past I have printed many objects with my da Vinci 1.0 (ABS only). I found that while the brim is being printing (using default configuration of XYZWare; the da Vinci machines give the user very little control over print parameters, if I remember correctly the temperatures are controlled by the chip in the filament cassette), filament stopped extruding from my extruder immediately. However, ABS can be printed properly. \n\nCould anyone tell me how can I work around ?\n\n\n\",Trish,\"The answer to this specific instance appeared in the comments:\n\n\n Also, a thorough cleaning of the nozzle/hotend might also be a good idea to get rid of all the stuck ABS residue inside. – 0scar Mar 26 at 8:44\n \n The problem solved !, my ABS is stuck in nozzle !!! – 3ORZ Apr 25 at 6:52\n\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n8547,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,3ORZ,2.1782824847157594,3.33123292709302,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,da Vinci 1.0 cannot print PLA filament,\"I bought new yellow PLA filament from XYZ (1.75 mm). \n\nOver the past I have printed many objects with my da Vinci 1.0 (ABS only). I found that while the brim is being printing (using default configuration of XYZWare; the da Vinci machines give the user very little control over print parameters, if I remember correctly the temperatures are controlled by the chip in the filament cassette), filament stopped extruding from my extruder immediately. However, ABS can be printed properly. \n\nCould anyone tell me how can I work around ?\n\n\n\",Nach0z,\"That looks pretty bad for a number of reasons. If you've got an all-metal hotend, you can be pretty sure that your PLA issues are probably at least partially cooling-related. I'd recommend you try and find a better fan duct design for your hotend, if possible, and possibly upgrade to a better fan.\n\nYou can temporarily skirt around cooling issues with PLA in all-metal hotends by printing more material, which typically means one or all of the following:\n\n\nFaster print speeds (if your printer can move quickly enough and has good acceleration)\nThicker lines! Surprisingly useful. If you don't want to sacrifice print detail, then make the infill lines ridiculously thick, the inner wall lines fairly thick, and the single outer perimeter \"\"normal\"\" thickness.\nThicker layer height. Normally I printed at 0.2mm like everyone else, but with PLA in my all-metal hotend, I had to up it to 0.3 with fatter lines as well. \n\n\nIf you can consistently keep the filament going through the hotend instead of lingering inside of it, you can basically \"\"push\"\" the melt zone back down into the heater block where it belongs, instead of it creeping upwards and resulting in a jam. \n\nAs a side note, the rippled surface of your brim there looks very similar to what used to happen to mine; the ripples are usually indicative of some form of over-extrusion on the first layer. I'd maybe look into checking your Z offset to make sure your print nozzle is far enough away from the bed, and maybe also check your flow rate is accurate for that particular filament. Check the filament diameter in a few places with a micrometer if you have access to one, and compare to your ABS prints to see if maybe you should adjust the flow rate down a few percent in your slicer.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5174,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pablo Elías Viejo,2.528907649931287,3.9412650096885966,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Selecting G-code files from SD with serial,\"I'm doing a project for college connecting an app made with app inventor to a Raspberry Pi and then using the RPi to make a printing queue for a Prusa P3 Steel. \n\nThe thing is that I already have the comm between the app and the RPi but I need to connect the RPi to the Arduino via USB and select the G-code files that are in the SD card of the Prusa to print. I don't know where should I put the function in the Marlin code or how to manage the serial port read function. \n\nAny ideas? \n\",JasonT Tech,\"You can send the G Codes to select and print a file over the serial connection. \n\n\nList the files\n\n\n M20\n\nSelect a file name\n\n\n M23 filename.gco\n\nStart/Resue the print\n\n\n M24\n\n\n\nSee https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code for more information M20 through M39 are the ones for interfacing with SD Card files.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n5176,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Willeke,3.267423727073639,3.70969427249681,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,Where to find information on 'fast' or 'professional' 3D printers?,\"I work for a company that makes items from plastics.\nMany or our current runs are between 500 and 5000 copies, but knowing the company, if we find a good method to do smaller runs, they are willing to see if it is a good commercial option.\n\nAt the moment we do use several different methods but the technical people are not yet looking into 3D printing.\n\nWhile I am not sure printing is the right option just yet, I would be surprised if it will not be in the future.\n\nAt this time I am interested in finding information to convince the tech people to look into the abilities of printers and what would impress them to look further would be printers that can produce in short times or at multiple stations so the overall run will be relatively short term.\nOur current items are mostly simple in shape, (disks with relief print) and small in size (no bigger than a 2 pound coin).\n\nDo you know an online magazine where the tech people can look or can you suggest a (few) printer(s) to look at right now?\nLinks to online general information or names to search for will be great.\n\nKnowing our current bunch of tech people they will likely prefer commercial available printers but proven 'home build technology' might be useful as well.\n\",Harvey Lim,\"Since your company specializes in small objects, SLA printers seem to be a good choice, since it has better detail but small printing area. However, SLA printers tend to require lots of post processing.\n\nIf you need a printer for rapid prototyping, you should be using FFF or FDM printers which don't need any post processing. At most, you could sand surfaces to have a smoother finish.\n\nIf you need fast printers on the other hand, Delta type printers could be something to look at. Kossel or Rostock printers are faster than standard XYZ printers/CoreXY printers.\n\nAs for magazines, Make Magazine features 3D printers and 3D prints if that's what you're looking for.\n\nTerms you can look up online (this includes some names of popular printers): FDM printers, SLA printers, Kossel printer, Rostock printer, CoreXY printer, Prusa i3, Formlabs Form 2, Ultimaker\n\nIf you have any questions and/or I got anything wrong, please notify me.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n5176,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Willeke,3.267423727073639,3.70969427249681,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,Where to find information on 'fast' or 'professional' 3D printers?,\"I work for a company that makes items from plastics.\nMany or our current runs are between 500 and 5000 copies, but knowing the company, if we find a good method to do smaller runs, they are willing to see if it is a good commercial option.\n\nAt the moment we do use several different methods but the technical people are not yet looking into 3D printing.\n\nWhile I am not sure printing is the right option just yet, I would be surprised if it will not be in the future.\n\nAt this time I am interested in finding information to convince the tech people to look into the abilities of printers and what would impress them to look further would be printers that can produce in short times or at multiple stations so the overall run will be relatively short term.\nOur current items are mostly simple in shape, (disks with relief print) and small in size (no bigger than a 2 pound coin).\n\nDo you know an online magazine where the tech people can look or can you suggest a (few) printer(s) to look at right now?\nLinks to online general information or names to search for will be great.\n\nKnowing our current bunch of tech people they will likely prefer commercial available printers but proven 'home build technology' might be useful as well.\n\",mac,\"3D printing may absolutely be a viable technology for what you are trying to achieve. The term you should search online is printing farm or 3D printing farm. A typical farm looks like this.\n\nThe reason you normally want to set up a farm is that - despite 3D printing being often associated to the expression \"\"rapid prototyping\"\" - 3D printing is anything but fast, and operating several machines is an easy way to increase the throughput. (On a side note: the term \"\"rapid\"\" in \"\"rapid prototyping\"\" refers to the fact that there is little to no overhead between the design and production phases, as opposed to the need to create a mold, or send out technical drawings to a machining shop, for example).\n\nThe right technology to be used (i.e.: what types of 3d printing you would need in your farm) is entirely dependent on the requirements and characteristics of the printed parts. There are so many different 3D printing technologies, and each technology has so many variables attached to it that it would be silly for me anybody else to state with certainty which one would be best for you (your \"\"tech people\"\" will likely spend a lot of time evaluating their choices), but to give you a sense of the complexity of the problem, I could mention that FDM/FFF printers are very cost-effective, quite slow, can print in a variety of materials, have limited resolution, suffer from wear, produce anisotropic parts while SLA printers have incredible resolution, can't print large parts, struggle with solid objects, emit toxic fumes, are expensive to buy and operate, etc...\n\nBe advised that the list of 3D printing technologies is not limited to those two (especially when it comes to industrial settings): FDM and SLA are the most known technologies as there are several consumer-grade printers using them, but DLP (Digital Light Processing), SLS (Selective Laser Sintering), SLM (Selective Laser Melting), EBM (Electronic Beam Melting), LOM (Laminated Object Manufacturing), BJ (Binder Jetting), MJ (Material Jetting) and others are also available... each with its own pros and cons.\n\nWhen it comes to source of inspiration and information, I have to disagree with the suggestion made by another responder that Make Magazine would be a good resource for forming an opinion. Make Magazine is a magazine targeting hobbyist, and as such it pitches and explores technologies that are geared towards enabling creativity. What you should be after is information on 3D printing in a commercial setting / on an industrial scale, as the requirements of a hobbyist printing their own drone are very (very!) different from those of a company needing to meet quickly, reliably and consistently a customer's specifications.\n\n3D printing technologies evolve continuously and quickly, so - if you are after printed material - it is essential for you to get hold of something published recently. Off the top of my head, The 3D Printing Handbook: Technologies, design and applications that came out a couple of months ago seems to be an excellent match for your current needs of forming an opinion / acquiring information (the link is to Amazon, and allows you to browse its index online). Keep in mind it was put together by 3D HUBS the largest network of manufacturing services in the world... so it is not some random guys' opinion!\n\nA couple of additional considerations that I would also keep in mind:\n\n\nIf you are planning to enter the 3D printing space be ready to fight off an established but ever-growing competition. One of the cool things about 3D printing is that being highly automatised, having a low cost of entry, and not requiring access to huge amount of energy or raw material, it is often available as a service locally. There are often global networks (e.g.: 3D Hubs, mentioned above) that make easier for potential customers to find a local printing facility, and that - conversely - make difficult for an isolated manufacturer to be discovered.\nIf you are considering setting up a 3D printing farm, I would spend a lot of time also considering its operation (extraction of fumes, backup energy sources, automatic/early detection of printing failures, replenishing of the raw matearial, etc...), as it will be a seizable part of the operating costs and associated risks.\nIf you are working with extremely small batches of small parts, also consider large printers over printing farms. The risk profile is different (larger investments, single point of failure) but the economics of running a single machine may prove more efficient overall.\nIf you are producing functional parts (i.e.: parts meant to be loaded / exposed to mechanical stress) be advised that some printing technology (most notably FDM/FFF) requires designing the parts with the printing process in mind, as the mechanical properties of a FDM printed objects are not the same along all of its axis. This may require additional training of your staff.\n\n\nHope this helps! :)\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n5183,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,borartr,1.726248027126092,3.7869293891806497,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,OpenSCAD to Flashprint ruins model based on number of fragments,\"I'm trying to print a cylinder with Flashprint. Problem is, that the .stl file i created (with OpenSCAD) is totally ruined once loaded into Flashprint. With ruined I mean the round outline is now with spikes and steps everywhere. And by loaded I mean directly after loading, not even creating the .gx files. The output of OpenSCAD looks fine, also in other stl viewers I tried.\n\nI figured out the problem occurs more when using certain number of fragments ($fn). If its very small, loading works better. But for numbers that make it acutally look like a round circle (eg 50), Flashprint is unable to load them correctly it seems.\n\nIt's obvious that its no slicing or printing problem, but simply a loading one, since the shown object (which does not look any round) also prints the way it is shown in flashprint before slicing.\n\nDoes someone know a way to load a cylinder with flashprint correctly, or do I have to switch to different software? I already installed some but am unfamiliar with the printer settings which I do not know in detail. I really though a cylinder should'nt be too complex for any 3D software.\n\nHere is the OpenSCAD Code for Cylinder, just create .stl and load into Flashprint to reproduce the Error:\n\nrotate_extrude($fn=70)\n translate([0, 0])\n square([20,2]); \n\n\nSee also this image (tried native cylinder code, problem remains the same however):\n\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Your image is very helpful. I think you might find that the rendering in your slicer is intentionally degraded to minimize use of system resources. The image you see may not be an accurate representation of that which would be printed.\n\nIf you wish further confirmation, consider to create the g-code from the slicer and view it in a text editor. An even better option would be to use an online g-code viewer and observe the results of the created g-code.\n\n\n\nThe image above is the first line of print for a Marvin, showing that the base curves are smooth and clean. Your cylinder should appear in a similar manner, confirming that your slicer is degrading the image.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5183,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,borartr,1.726248027126092,3.7869293891806497,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,OpenSCAD to Flashprint ruins model based on number of fragments,\"I'm trying to print a cylinder with Flashprint. Problem is, that the .stl file i created (with OpenSCAD) is totally ruined once loaded into Flashprint. With ruined I mean the round outline is now with spikes and steps everywhere. And by loaded I mean directly after loading, not even creating the .gx files. The output of OpenSCAD looks fine, also in other stl viewers I tried.\n\nI figured out the problem occurs more when using certain number of fragments ($fn). If its very small, loading works better. But for numbers that make it acutally look like a round circle (eg 50), Flashprint is unable to load them correctly it seems.\n\nIt's obvious that its no slicing or printing problem, but simply a loading one, since the shown object (which does not look any round) also prints the way it is shown in flashprint before slicing.\n\nDoes someone know a way to load a cylinder with flashprint correctly, or do I have to switch to different software? I already installed some but am unfamiliar with the printer settings which I do not know in detail. I really though a cylinder should'nt be too complex for any 3D software.\n\nHere is the OpenSCAD Code for Cylinder, just create .stl and load into Flashprint to reproduce the Error:\n\nrotate_extrude($fn=70)\n translate([0, 0])\n square([20,2]); \n\n\nSee also this image (tried native cylinder code, problem remains the same however):\n\n\",borartr,\"While my first try with slic3r was really bad, due the required manual setup and my lacking experience (which was the reason I really wanted to stick with Flashprint), I actually found a solution to my problem. Its more a workarround but im perfectly happy with it for now.\n\nI just load the OpenScad .stl with slic3r, use it's \"\"Export STL...\"\" feature, and load the resulting stl with Flashprint. Looks like a charm. \n\nSo the problem is really the OpenSCAD specific .stl files being misinterpreted by Flashprint.\n\nHopefully this helps some of you as well and save you some trouble.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n5197,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Harvey Lim,2.1782824847157594,4.265349585185877,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How should I make my PTFE tube smaller?,\"So, some background. I bought a e3d Lite6. When assembling the hotend, the PTFE tube does not even go in 1/4th of the way. I found out that the issue was that the PTFE tube was too wide. It measured 4.26mm (outer diameter) and the heat break is only 4.1mm (inner diameter). How should I make my PTFE tube smaller?\n\",mac,\"I would advise buying a new tube for a few reasons:\n\n\nPTFE tubes should be either 4 or 6 mm external diameter (for 1.75 or 3 mm filament respectively). Chances are that if your external diameter is that much off from the nominal value, the inner diameter will also be inaccurate, and this could cause a lot of problems during printing, as the filament will likely bend slightly and unpredictably within the tube and the pressure in the nozzle will be unstable, as well as retraction may work inconsistently.\nA non all-metal extruder is designed with the assumption that the inner and external sections of the PTFE tube are concentric. This may or may not be the case for your tube, but it is likely that any hand-made modification to the tube will cause the above not to be true.\nPTFE tubes are pretty cheap (around 2€ per metre or less, when bought online).\n\n\nThat said, should you still want to manually modify your tube, I would proceed like this (beware: untested!):\n\n\nInsert the end of the tube onto a drill bit that fits snugly into it.\nInsert the drill bit into a drill press or a drill held in a vice or otherwise immobilised.\nLet the drill spin the bit/tube at a moderate speed\nMove a piece of fine grit paper up and down the portion of the tube on the bit, trying to apply consistent pressure.\nCheck your progress with a caliper or a micrometer often, and reduce increase the grit while approaching the desired result.\n\n\nBest luck! :)\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n5279,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Harvey Lim,1.726248027126092,4.0671204608889795,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,MKS Sbase Probing,\"So I have an MKS Sbase v1.3 that I am trying to use in a delta printer. I am trying to use a PNP inductive sensor with it and it doesn't work. I have tried using a voltage divider with it already (10k ohm and 15k ohm) but it doesn't give any signal when the probe is triggered. Can anyone help me? \n\nP.S Yes, I do know that the board has physical pullups. I am thinking of using NPN MOSFETS but I don't know how I should wire them.\n\",Harvey Lim,\"After testing my z-min endstop pins, I found out that I could trigger the probe manually by using a jumper wire between Signal and Ground. I then used a NPN MOSFET to connect the sensor to the endstop by connecting the black wire of the probe to the base, the signal wire of the endstop pins to the collector, and the blue wire from the probe and the ground pin of the endstop connector to the emitter of my MOSFET. Note that my mosfet is a TIP120.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n5199,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,M F,2.1782824847157594,5.585464568224142,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Anet A8 filament not coming out,\"Our Anet A8 seems to be working but the filament won't come out of the extruder. We can manually push it through though. The gears seem to be working fine and it's warming up. I have read the other answers on this site but none seem to fix our problem. \n\",mac,\"From the comments/answers to your main question, the likely culprit is the hobbed wheel not catching the filament firmly enough.\n\n\n\nThe hobbed wheel I am referring to is the yellowish one at the centre of the picture. The problem could be due to:\n\n\nthe wheel being of poor quality, with blunt teeth\nthe wheel being of the wrong diameter (too small)\nthe spring squeezing the wheel against the filament being too weak\n[judging from the picture, I don't own the A8] it could even be that the nut on the lever that is pushed by the spring (top right of the picture) is too far down on the threaded rod, and prevents the lever to move far enough to push effectively.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5212,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Programmer,3.267423727073639,5.834024403255303,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Remove the Marlin Boot screen,\"I added a custom boot screen to marlin by adding _Bootscreen.h to the project root folder and it works fine. The problem is that the custom screen shows quickly and disappear then the marlin boot screen is then displayed for a longer time.\nI want to remove the marlin boot screen.\n\nI dug around in the source code and found a void lcd_bootscreen function in the ultralcd_impl_HD44780.h header. This seems to be the function that is loading the marlin's boot screen due to the comments in the code. I added return; to the first line of code in this function but the marlin's boot screen is still loading. \n\nHow can I remove the marlin boot screen. How can make my custom boot screen wait for more time?\n\nThe marlin version is 1.1.8.\n\",Tensibai,\"So after some search:\n\n\nYou can't (at least should not) remove the marlin bootscreen according to this issue SHOW_CUSTOM_BOOTSCREEN hides Marlin logo, quote:\n\n\n We wanted an additional logo - not a replacement of the Marlin logo.\n\nAccording to the code here there's a constant CUSTOM_BOOTSCREEN_TIMEOUT taking the default value of 2500 which is 2.5 seconds but you can redefine it in your _Boostrap.h file.\n\nThis constant is only available for DOGM lcd screens which is chosen by the code here in ultralcd.cpp and whitout more details on your machine it's hard to tell from Conditionals_LCD.h which will be used.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5212,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Programmer,3.267423727073639,5.834024403255303,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Remove the Marlin Boot screen,\"I added a custom boot screen to marlin by adding _Bootscreen.h to the project root folder and it works fine. The problem is that the custom screen shows quickly and disappear then the marlin boot screen is then displayed for a longer time.\nI want to remove the marlin boot screen.\n\nI dug around in the source code and found a void lcd_bootscreen function in the ultralcd_impl_HD44780.h header. This seems to be the function that is loading the marlin's boot screen due to the comments in the code. I added return; to the first line of code in this function but the marlin's boot screen is still loading. \n\nHow can I remove the marlin boot screen. How can make my custom boot screen wait for more time?\n\nThe marlin version is 1.1.8.\n\",ParadoX,\"You can add return; command in the ultralcd_impl_DOGM.h file. \n\n void lcd_bootscreen() { \n #if ENABLED(SHOW_CUSTOM_BOOTSCREEN)\n lcd_custom_bootscreen();\n #endif\n return; // Add this line \n\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n5614,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Programmer,4.146747269907207,5.794162755437617,0.0,2.011441651225199,4.932097101757954,5.536234122084146,Understand what CR-10S fans are cooling,\"I am designing a fan mount for the CR-10S printer to hold the E3D All-metal v6 HotEnd and BLTouch sensor. \n\nThe CR-10S printer has two fans. \n\nOne on the front:\n\n\n\nand another one on the right:\n\n\n\nI need to know what the two fans are actually cooling in order to make a perfect mount. \n\nWhen powered on, the front fan seems to be on 100 percent of the time. The right fan can only be on via gcode when printing. \n\nI removed the fan mount to study it and it looks like the front fan is cooling the hotend heat sink. \n\n\n\nThe right fan is attached to the mount and there no hole there to let the air from the fan go through. It seems to be cooling the metal it is bolted to and that doesn't make sense.\n\nAm I correct about the front fan? What's the right fan cooling? \n\",mac,\"The function of the front fan is keeping the cold end well... cold. :) It should be spinning as long as the printer is turned on.\n\nThe right fan is known as \"\"part fan\"\" and its function is to cool down the plastic that has been just extruded, the idea being to solidify it as soon as possible. As you noticed it is controlled by the gcode and it can be turned on, off and even made spin at any speed in-between still and full throttle. It normally stops spinning at the end of the print (with some plastic like ABS it may be set not to spin at all even during the print).\n\nIf you take a closer look at your CR-10, you will see that the receptacle the air is blown into by the part fan has no bottom: that slit is where the air passes through, before being deflected 90° towards the nozzle.\n\nOn the CR-10 the standard deflector for the part fan does not do a good job (the air is not blown where it should) and replacing it with a custom part is one of the most common upgrades performed on the printer.\n\nPersonally on my CR-10 I used a custom mount with an integrated \"\"fang\"\" that blew the air from both sides and worked really well. It also had the advantage of reusing the hardware from the original assembly (= you don't need to buy anything, just print the part).\n\",4.227070557464731,2.0769199823829045\n7462,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Programmer,2.1782824847157594,3.821221388659109,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Which capacitor to change on CR-10S S500 motherboard?,\"I have a CR-10S 500 and want to change a capacitor on it to improve and solve temperature issues. This capacitor that needs to be changed should be labeled as \"\"C4\"\" as mentioned on this post but it's not present on my motherboard. The goal is to replace 100uF capacitor with 220uF 16V capacitor.\n\nThis is what the motherboard should look like:\n\n\n\nbut mine looks different. Below is what it looks like:\n\n\n\nThere is no version number on my motherboard and there is no \"\"C4\"\" capacitor. Also, the component that's labeled \"\"330\"\" on the original board is labeled \"\"470\"\" on my motherboard. It's hard to decide which capacitor to change. On my motherboard, there two capacitors instead of one, closer to the location of the capacitor that needs to be replaced. They are labeled \"\"C42\"\" and \"\"C35\"\" instead of \"\"C4\"\". I do not want to replace the wrong one since it's risky enough to replace just one capacitor on these boards.\n\nAnyone know my motherboard type or version? Also, which capacitor to change?\n\nEDIT:\n\nHere is a better or zoomed in section of the place:\n\n\n\nAs Trish requested in the comment, below is also the back side of the motherboard.\n\n\n\ntheSealion might be right in his answer and I did a test and it all points to \"\"C31\"\" as he suggested but the problem is that the capacitor is different from the one it is supposed to be replaced with like on other CR-10 boards. I am not entirely sure if this is the capacitor since the type of capacitor are different from the one I was suggested to use. Below is the new capacitor:\n\n\n\nMy current idea is to remove the tiny \"\"C31\"\", solver wire to pin 4 of LM2596 and to the new capacitor but I do not want to remove the \"\"C31\"\" because I don't want anything to go bad. \n\nCan I add the new capacitor parallel to the existing \"\"C31\"\" without removing the \"\"C31\"\"?\n\",Greenonline,\"An important note on Voltage Rating\n\nJust to add to the existing answers.\n\nIf you are planning on upgrading the capacitors to some with larger capacitance, then assuming that they are for the supply regulation/smoothing then upping the capacitance shouldn't be (too much of) an issue. If they are used for timing, i.e. in an RC circuit (which seems unlikely in this particular case), then the capacitance should/must be kept the same. \n\nHowever, the main issue that I see is that the existing capacitors are rating at 35 V, and you are planning on adding lower rating capacitors, i.e. 16 V. This is asking for trouble and at best an early failure, or blown capacitor.\n\nThe voltage rating should be between 1.5-2.0 times the voltage of the circuit, or better still (possible overkill), double the circuit voltage and then use the next voltage rating. \n\nSo, for a 12 V circuit, use a 25 V rated capacitor, or 35 V. The 16 V is a bit of a no-no, and besides you don't want to mix voltage ratings for the same circuit, not a good idea, unless you actually want a common point of failure.\n\nSee sources: Selecting voltage rate for capacitors and High Voltage Capacitor, in a low voltage system?\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7462,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Programmer,2.1782824847157594,3.821221388659109,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Which capacitor to change on CR-10S S500 motherboard?,\"I have a CR-10S 500 and want to change a capacitor on it to improve and solve temperature issues. This capacitor that needs to be changed should be labeled as \"\"C4\"\" as mentioned on this post but it's not present on my motherboard. The goal is to replace 100uF capacitor with 220uF 16V capacitor.\n\nThis is what the motherboard should look like:\n\n\n\nbut mine looks different. Below is what it looks like:\n\n\n\nThere is no version number on my motherboard and there is no \"\"C4\"\" capacitor. Also, the component that's labeled \"\"330\"\" on the original board is labeled \"\"470\"\" on my motherboard. It's hard to decide which capacitor to change. On my motherboard, there two capacitors instead of one, closer to the location of the capacitor that needs to be replaced. They are labeled \"\"C42\"\" and \"\"C35\"\" instead of \"\"C4\"\". I do not want to replace the wrong one since it's risky enough to replace just one capacitor on these boards.\n\nAnyone know my motherboard type or version? Also, which capacitor to change?\n\nEDIT:\n\nHere is a better or zoomed in section of the place:\n\n\n\nAs Trish requested in the comment, below is also the back side of the motherboard.\n\n\n\ntheSealion might be right in his answer and I did a test and it all points to \"\"C31\"\" as he suggested but the problem is that the capacitor is different from the one it is supposed to be replaced with like on other CR-10 boards. I am not entirely sure if this is the capacitor since the type of capacitor are different from the one I was suggested to use. Below is the new capacitor:\n\n\n\nMy current idea is to remove the tiny \"\"C31\"\", solver wire to pin 4 of LM2596 and to the new capacitor but I do not want to remove the \"\"C31\"\" because I don't want anything to go bad. \n\nCan I add the new capacitor parallel to the existing \"\"C31\"\" without removing the \"\"C31\"\"?\n\",theSealion,\"You are looking for a capacitor that must be connected to Pin 4 of the LM2596.\n\nMaybe you could provide a better picture of that area so we could see the different tracks on the board.\n\nThe LM2596 is in the center of the right side of the board (it is also labeled with LM2596D). The pins should be counted from top to bottom (in your picture)\n\nMy guess is, the Elko you are looking for is connected to C31, and you must look for the positive pin.\n\n\n\nIn this wiring diagram Cout is the capacitor you are looking for. The SMD Parts R1, R2 and CFF should be R31, R32 and C31 in your picture.\n\nWith the corresponging measurements I would say you do not need to replace the capacitors. \n\nIn comparison to the old board your board already has the \"\"fix\"\" implemented. \n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n7466,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Programmer,1.0891412423578797,4.736354519358316,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Is endstop / z-probe wire required for BLTouch installation on CR-10S,\"I am confused about installing BLTouch on CR-10S.\n\nThis is my motherboard:\n\n\n\nBelow is a screenshot for the wiring of the BLTouch sensor:\n\n\n\nSee the circled sections in yellow.\n\nNotice that the Z- socket is also used (black and white BLTouch wire) and that's normally where the endstop limit switch sensor is plugged in. \n\nIf I unplug the limit switch wire and simply plug the BLTouch wire to this:\n\n1. How can the printer determine when it has reached home?\n\n2. How does it know when to stop when it hits home?\n\n3. I thought BLTouch is used to do some leveling on the surface... Does BLTouch have a sensor to stop the printer when it hits some?\n\n4. Any way to install BLTouch without removing the Z limit switch sensor?\n\nSorry for the questions. I am just confused about BLTouch using pins of another sensor that's also required. \n\",0scar,\"A touch sensor is also a height limiting switch, so you sacrifice the Z- limit switch in favor of the touch sensor (or an inductive sensor). Furthermore, all your concerns are taken care of by the firmware. You configure the firmware so that the nozzle homes Z in the center of the build plate after X and Y are homed first.\n\nIt is advised to look up some videos of working touch sensors, then you will get an idea what actually happens. You could start with the inventor of the sensor.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n7468,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Programmer,1.0891412423578797,3.3916584347368426,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Free UARTs TX and RX pins on CR-10S motherboard,\"I have a WiFi module that only needs two wires connection to work. These are RX and TX pins connected to Arduino or the CR-10S printer board but I don't know if there is any physical or software UARTs TX and RX pins. My goal is to add a Wifi support to the CR-10S printer. Since this is not Arduino and the pins are not labeled, it's hard to tell which TX and RX pins are not being used.\n\nIn the image of my motherboard below, any port or pin with line pointing to is considered as being used by the printing software so I can't used them.\n\n\n\nThere are still ports or pins that are not used. Can any one tell if there is a TX and RX pin that is not being used from the image above? I need them to communicate with the printer wirelessly. \n\",0scar,\"Not answering the question directly which pins you can use I would like to propose an alternative solution for your problem, to explain why you should not use RX/TX pins.\n\nAn alternative solution includes the use of a small single board computer like the Raspberry Pi (RPi) which is connected over USB with the printer board. E.g. the latest range of RPi (Raspberry Pi 3 Model B and B+) have onboard WiFi, or alternatively an older RPi (Raspberry Pi 2) could be used in conjunction with a USB Wifi dongle. On the RPi you could install a print server that talks directly with your printer over USB. One such an application that is frequently used is OctoPprint (the complete installation/image is referred to as OctoPi). \n\nYou can then interface with the print server application using a web browser on any mobile device in your network, and if configured as such you could do that potentially from over everywhere over the world. The major advantage is that you then are not communicating G-code over WiFi as you would if you used RX/TX pins. Knowing that WiFi connection adds issues with latency and the possibility of a disconnection during the print, your fail rate would increase over a single board computer approach.\n\nWith an RPi the print will continue regardless of the Wifi connection. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7501,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Programmer,1.0891412423578797,4.698149995695971,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Proper wire gauges for extending all CR-10S wires,\"I want to extend all my CR-10S wires. I have two long wire types: 22 and 18 AWG wires. I've done some research and found the following:\n\n\nExtruder heating element: 22 AWG or lower.\nExtruder thermistor sensor: 22 AWG or lower (Doesn't really need much amp).\nFans: 24 AWG or lower (Doesn't really need much amp).\nLimit switch/filament sensor: 24 AWG or lower (Doesn't really need\nmuch amp).\n\n\nHere is where I've problems determining which wire gauge to use:\n\n\nStepper motor wires: ?\nBed heater wires: ?\n\n\nWhat's the wire gauge needed for the stepper motor and bed heater wires? Obviously, the bed heater needs more amp so I expect lower wire gauge. Is my 18 gauge wire enough for this?\n\nOn the Reprap site, it says that 18 AWG or lower is fine for the heating bed.\n\",0scar,\"This answer expands on the heat bed wires question which is not addressed in this answer and gives a foundation for the edit of the question stating that AWG 18 or lower is sufficient.\n\n\n\nThe current depends on the voltage your machine uses. The question does not state whether you modified the power supply or not. Typical values for the resistance of the bed are in the range of 1.2 - 1.8 Ω (Ohms). This implies a maximum current of $\\frac{12}{1.2}=10 A$ (the stock power supply is 12 V, if the power supply is changed to 24 V, the current doubles). From this reference you can look up the amapacity (maximum current through a wire) which wire gauge fits the current for your application depending on the maximum temperature you want it to reach. For 10 Amps, you will see that AWG 18 can be used for a single wire when you allow the wire to heat up to 60 °C. Note that bundling wires lowers the ampacity of a wire, because the cooling is less optimal for bundled wires (this is called de-rating).\n\nPlease be careful when you read that certain wires are sufficient for your application. It is best to calculate the current your specific application draws from the power supply rather than relying on somebody else's calculation, it could well be that the assumptions are different than in your specific case. A multimeter or multitester is a valuable asset to aid in your calculations.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7501,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Programmer,1.0891412423578797,4.698149995695971,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Proper wire gauges for extending all CR-10S wires,\"I want to extend all my CR-10S wires. I have two long wire types: 22 and 18 AWG wires. I've done some research and found the following:\n\n\nExtruder heating element: 22 AWG or lower.\nExtruder thermistor sensor: 22 AWG or lower (Doesn't really need much amp).\nFans: 24 AWG or lower (Doesn't really need much amp).\nLimit switch/filament sensor: 24 AWG or lower (Doesn't really need\nmuch amp).\n\n\nHere is where I've problems determining which wire gauge to use:\n\n\nStepper motor wires: ?\nBed heater wires: ?\n\n\nWhat's the wire gauge needed for the stepper motor and bed heater wires? Obviously, the bed heater needs more amp so I expect lower wire gauge. Is my 18 gauge wire enough for this?\n\nOn the Reprap site, it says that 18 AWG or lower is fine for the heating bed.\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"If my calculations are correct, a typical ceramic heating element for the extruder heating block runs 40 W. At 12 V dc, that equates to 3.33 A. A 24 awg wire is rated for 3.5 A, which means it barely covers the draw from the heater. A high torque Nema 17 motor will draw 2 A (which is probably heavier than most standard stepper motors in most 3D printing applications). Seeing as how the 18 awg wire is rated to 9.5 A, you should have no issue extending your wires using this gauge of wire for all of the extensions. \n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5214,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Oliver Jane,2.528907649931287,4.790874084630291,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Jammed extruder. Wanhao duplicator i3 Plus,\"I am new to 3d printing having only recieved it for christmas. The filament is jammed somewhere in the extruder of my Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus. I have tried removing it with the included hook but was unsuccessful. Is there anything else I should try before I before I dismantle the extruder, which i very much want to avoid.\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"Try to preheat your printer, the temperature should be above 180°C then push the filament to come out from the nozzle just 4 to 7 mm, then take out the filament from the extruder. With this step the plastic lump will get soft and will release the filament.\n\nThen use the tool to clean the nozzle pushing the residue inside the nozzle.\n\nThis is a common problem if someone tries to change the filament without feeding a little bit (3-5mm).\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5214,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Oliver Jane,2.528907649931287,4.790874084630291,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Jammed extruder. Wanhao duplicator i3 Plus,\"I am new to 3d printing having only recieved it for christmas. The filament is jammed somewhere in the extruder of my Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus. I have tried removing it with the included hook but was unsuccessful. Is there anything else I should try before I before I dismantle the extruder, which i very much want to avoid.\n\",IanCaz,\"I follow the techniques spelled out in this video on Tom's 3d:\nBasics: Cleaning out a clogged nozzle!\n\nEssentially you:\n\n\nHeat up the hot end past the point you normally print at.\nManually (gently) push filament out of the hot end.\nTurn off heat & continue applying pressure to the filament, until it quits extruding (it has cooled off).\nSet the heat on the hot end to normal printing temprature for the filament & immediately start pulling firmly on the filament, but not too hard.\nAs soon as it melts enough, it will just \"\"slip out\"\" & bring any stuck crud with it.\n\n\nI went ahead and bought some white nylon filament so I can heat it up hotter (good for cleaning out ABS) and since it's white, I can see the nasty crap it pulls out.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5215,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,David Reed,3.452496054252184,4.184068873171051,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,4.620985695623129,4.208576161768494,3D printing references for beginners,\"I have just received a 3D printer for Christmas (Robo R2). I am confused by the sheer amount of settings that I can tweak and I'm hesitant to do so until I know more about them. I was wondering if anybody has any recommendations for literature on:\n\n\n3D printing in general (geared towards beginners);\nDesigning parts specifically.\n\n\nBooks are preferred but websites are acceptable as well.\n\",mac,\"Welcome to the fantastic, sometimes frustrating but most often glorious world of 3D printing David! :)\n\nYour question is really very very broad, but here's my contribution to make your first steps a success. First of all: I don't have experience with the Robo R2, but judging from the specs available online, I would say that you got a machine that take care of most of the troubles beginners encounter when starting out (e.g.: levelling the bed) and has a few features that allow you to print more reliably/with better quality (heated bed, enclosure, possibility for a second extruder).\n\nGive a hug to whoever made the gift to you! ;)\n\nI like to think to 3D printing as a process that involves 4 phases (well, normally several iteration of them as prototyping is a thing):\n\n\nDesigning (creating the mesh, i.e. the shape of the object you want to print)\nSlicing (creating GCODE, i.e. the file with the step-by-step instructions for moving your printer nozzle in space, extruding the plastic, controlling temperatures and cooling, etc...)\nPrinting (the actual process of having your printer running that GCODE)\nPost-processing (finishing the piece, by for example removing support material, sanding, vapor-smoothing the surface, painting, etc...)\n\n\nTechnology in the 3D printing world is moving so fast that printed information tends to get outdated quickly, and the Internet is often the best source of information. So in the following bits I will mention the the source of information that I use[d] for myself, of which many are online rather than in print.\n\nDESIGN\n\nBroadly speaking, there are two kind of designs one can do: decorative or functional. Decorative designs are those in which the final object will essentially sit still on a shelf or be handled very gently (e.g.: a model of the Tour Eiffel, a miniature for RPG gaming), functional designs are those in which the final part will have to bear a load or perform some sort of mechanical work (e.g.: a drone, a shelf bracket, a pipe adapter...).\n\nBoth designs need to take into consideration the physical limitations of FDM printers such as the fact that the nozzle is round and with a fixed diameter, or the fact that molten plastic needs to rest onto something, thus the need for support.\n\nAdditionally, functional design requires an understanding of the physical properties of 3D MFD printed parts (hint: they are anisotropic, so their properties differs along their axis). If you are interested in functional designing a book that I can highly recommend is Functional Design for 3D Printing by Cliff Smyth. It is concise, accessible and full of information you'll be using from your very first design.\n\nIn terms of tools, for decorative, organic forms, you will probably want to use a program like Blender, that manipulate meshes directly, while for functional designs will probably turn to CAD software, like for examaple FreeCAD that operate on a \"\"model\"\" and let you export the finished part as a mesh at the very end.\n\nBoth Blender and FreeCAD are free software (like in: \"\"free speech\"\") but commercial versions do exist as well (most notably from Autodesk).\n\nBlender is professional grade software with a very steep learning curve and I would suggest to take an structured online course like this one about it, rather than trying to learn it the DIY way.\n\nFreeCAD belongs to a category of CAD programmes that operate on a well defined, well understood, set of principles (so it works similarly to OnShape and Fusion360 for example) and it is much easier to learn. In my experience CAD modelling is best learnt by understanding the very basic, and then just researching further information as you go, according to the needs of your project as CAD design is full of small specific operations that is useful to know only if you actually need them (e.g.: how to draw a screw thread, or to perform a loft). I started out with this series of video tutorials by the late Roland Frank (a celebrated contributor to the FreeCAD community), but there are tons of other tutorial should you choose to go with a commercial product.\n\nSLICING\n\nSlicing is as much an art as it is science. While the actual work of generating the GCODE is automated and requires just the click of a button, there are a myriad of settings that are mutually interdependent in their effect. For example: filament temperature, movement speed, cooling fan, retraction and coasting all affect oozing, but each of them also affect other things (bridging, layer adhesion, curling, nominal overextrusion, etc...).\n\nAlso: settings differs for each filament material, each brand, and sometimes even different spools from the same material/brand. Moreover, you may wish to tune them depending to what you are printing (maybe you are printing a finely detailed miniature and want to go slower to reduce vibration, or maybe you are printing a torsion bar and want to increase the temperature for increasing layer adhesion, for example...).\n\nIMO the best way to understand how settings affect your print is playing around with calibration towers (example) and torture tests (example).\n\nCalibration towers work by printing the same thing on top of each other but changing at each repetition a specific setting (like filament temperature, or extrusion multiplier). You will then visually inspect the final piece and evaluate how the print quality changed relative to that parameter.\n\nTorture tests work by putting in the same piece a number of features that are hard for the printer to print correctly (thin walls, bridges, overhangs, to name a few).\n\nA specific model that is sort of gold standard as a basic test is the 3D benchy. The good thing about it is that it comes with a full website that also tell you how you can evaluate the print. However, the benchy - differently than torture tests - is not designed to let you discover the limits of your printer, it is more of a quality-control test. If you can print a 3D benchy, you should be good to go for printing \"\"regular\"\" objects.\n\nAlso, at least in the two most common free-as-in-freedom slicers (Cura and slic3r Prusa Edition) each setting comes with some explanatory text while hovering on it, that helps a lot understanding what that setting does).\n\nPRINTING\n\nHow much you can affect the actual printing process depends from how \"\"open source\"\" is your printer, and if it uses standard components or not. Consumer-grade printers get often upgraded/modded to improve print quality or tweak them for a specific job/material. Typical upgrades are extruder upgrades, stepper motor upgrades, vibration dampeners, different sensors, etc...\n\nEach printer is unique, but normally you can find abundant information wherever the community of owners of a specific model gathers.\n\nI would also advise to subscribe to some good youtube channel about 3D printing like Tom's or Makers Muse or Joel's, and to visit sites like All3dp regularly. As I mentioned, 3D printing tech changes constantly, and it is good to keep tabs on new materials, new software, new components, etc...\n\nPOST-PROCESSING\n\nThis is entirely dependent from the material you used for the print, its size, and its intended use, but I wanted to mention this nonetheless as there are amazing things you can do with acetone on ABS, lot of elbow grease on PLA or the use of an airbrush... so you know 3D printing does not end with the print! ;)\n\nHope this helps you at least a bit. Again: welcome to the the 3D printing world! :)\n\",3.9604314711224866,2.0769199823829045\n5215,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,David Reed,3.452496054252184,4.184068873171051,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,4.620985695623129,4.208576161768494,3D printing references for beginners,\"I have just received a 3D printer for Christmas (Robo R2). I am confused by the sheer amount of settings that I can tweak and I'm hesitant to do so until I know more about them. I was wondering if anybody has any recommendations for literature on:\n\n\n3D printing in general (geared towards beginners);\nDesigning parts specifically.\n\n\nBooks are preferred but websites are acceptable as well.\n\",David Reed,\"I have found that \"\"Troubleshooting and Maintaining your 3d Printer\"\" by Charles Bell has a good overview of:\n\n\n3d Printer Assembly and parts\n3d Printer Calibration\n3d Printer Software\nFilament materials\n3d Printer Maintenance (both preventative and corrective)\n3d Hardware Troubleshooting\n3d Print Troubleshooting\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5276,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,David Reed,2.8153892694839717,5.791131655773912,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Combing and Coasting,\"Here is my understanding of Coasting: Coasting stops extruding early in a move so that the string itself will finish the layer.\n\nHere is my understanding of Combing: Combing reduces the need to retract during travel moves by making sure that the nozzle oozes where you want it to on the way to the next point.\n\nI'm curious as to what types of prints these are good for, and also what types of prints these would be bad for.\n\nSo for instance, Coasting is good for prints that have a high propensity to exhibit stringing, but what types of prints would I want coasting to be deselected for?\n\nSimilarly for combing, although I know neither the pros nor cons other than it reduces the number of retractions (decreases wear on extruder?)\n\nIn short, basically I'm looking for the pros and cons of both of these settings. Also if my understanding of the settings themselves is incorrect please let me know. Any advice would be much appreciated.\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"Coasting is good for filaments that ooze. The stop/up/start time at the end of a layer can be long enough that a visible seam appears if the layer starts in the same place. Transparent filaments also suffer from the velocity effect at layer shifts (more transparent when extruded slower).\nThe disadvantage is that it becomes another parameter to tune per filament.\n\nCombing is most useful where a part has internal spaces, but might result in longer travel.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5276,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,David Reed,2.8153892694839717,5.791131655773912,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Combing and Coasting,\"Here is my understanding of Coasting: Coasting stops extruding early in a move so that the string itself will finish the layer.\n\nHere is my understanding of Combing: Combing reduces the need to retract during travel moves by making sure that the nozzle oozes where you want it to on the way to the next point.\n\nI'm curious as to what types of prints these are good for, and also what types of prints these would be bad for.\n\nSo for instance, Coasting is good for prints that have a high propensity to exhibit stringing, but what types of prints would I want coasting to be deselected for?\n\nSimilarly for combing, although I know neither the pros nor cons other than it reduces the number of retractions (decreases wear on extruder?)\n\nIn short, basically I'm looking for the pros and cons of both of these settings. Also if my understanding of the settings themselves is incorrect please let me know. Any advice would be much appreciated.\n\",mac,\"If anything, combing and coasting allow to mitigate problems that are printer and filament specific, rather than dependent on particular STL models.\n\nCombing helps - as you imply in your question - with materials prone to oozing (e.g. PETG)\n\nCoasting is particularly good for printers with a bowden extruders and low jerk/retraction speeds. This is because in bowden extruders there is a lot of filament compressed between the teeth of the extruder servo and the nozzle, and that pressure doesn't instantly disappears when the printer stop \"\"pushing\"\" (i.e.: turning the extruder servo).\n\nI believe there are firmware implementations where coasting is also used when approaching sharp corners. This is to mitigate the problem of \"\"blobs\"\" forming there. The mechanics of this are similar to those explained above: the pressure within the extruder cannot be instantly relieved and coasting accounts for that. The only difference being that - because of the micro-scale of the problem - even non-bowden printers are prone to corner blobs.\n\nIn my experience (I look forward to other answers to \"\"compare notes\"\") there are very few reasons not to use combing. The only risk with it is that it increases the risk of the nozzle crashing into the print and destroying it. It sound dramatic, but it is in practice it requires everything to work against you: a big blob on the previous layer, the nozzle passing exactly there, poor bed adhesion... for me that has proved problematic only when printing miniatures with a 0.2 mm nozzle and 0.05 mm layer height (on a cheap printer).\n\nThere is of course a (usually very small) time penalty in combing, as it typically requires the nozzle to travel longer paths.\n\nIn my experience (again: YMMV, I look forward to more answers!) the limitations of coasting are related to the way it is implemented. For example, a given coasting setting may work great for getting rid of oozing, but will create under-extrusion in other parts of the print, as the calculations performed within the firmware may be spot-on for linear motion but inaccurate for corners, or vice-versa.\n\nI believe this is the reason while some popular slicers (like cura) have this setting hidden under \"\"experimental\"\".\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n5317,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,David Reed,1.726248027126092,4.170304384720499,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Supports for dense Voronoi pieces,\"I have printed 1 voronoi piece before. I was able to get the supports that were inside the structure out with tweezers because the holes were big enough. This one (pic below) I do not think I can do that with. I looked at the proposed support structure preview in my slicer (I use Cura) and it wants to print them inside the torso here as well. Is there a way to force the slicer to not print supports within a hollow piece? I use cura but I can use another slicer if need be. Or any other recommendations for a successful print here would be fine as well.\n\n\n\",fred_dot_u,\"One feature of Cura is the ability to set supports to build plate only. This would remove any supports internal to the model, as your model has a base that is not considered the build plate or raft. In the image provided, you would have some complications, I believe, as there would be no supports on the outside of the model if it was directly over the base.\n\n\n\nAs you are not eliminating other options, you can also turn off supports in Cura, load your model into Meshmixer and make use of their support feature, which allows you to adjust placement, size and other parameters in order to get a good result.\n\nThe flexibility is limited only by your imagination:\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n5432,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,David Reed,1.726248027126092,2.589815693999396,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,reducing cross-sectional area,\"Some filaments suggest \"\"reducing cross-sectional area\"\" of the print. Is this referring to the vertical plane or horizontal plane? In other words, if I were to print a rectangular prism, would I want the long side of it printed in the vertical direction or parallel to the print bed?\n\",Nir,\"My guess is, based on the fact that this is ABS and the same paragraph recommends an heated bed, that they mean you should avoid layers with large continuous areas because those can be problematic with ABS if your heat is not very well controlled.\n\nBasically while you are printing the upper part the lower part is cooling, and ABS shrinks as it cools, short strands shrink by a little and apply little force to the print while long strands shrink by a lot (same percentage, but more length - because they are longer to begin with) apply a lot of force and pull the edges of the print of the bed\n\nso they suggest the shorter sides be on the X and Y and the longer side be on the Z axis.\n\nNote that this will make materials with high shrinkage and low bed adhesion like ABS easier to print - this will not make the resulting part stronger or in any way better\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5432,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,David Reed,1.726248027126092,2.589815693999396,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,reducing cross-sectional area,\"Some filaments suggest \"\"reducing cross-sectional area\"\" of the print. Is this referring to the vertical plane or horizontal plane? In other words, if I were to print a rectangular prism, would I want the long side of it printed in the vertical direction or parallel to the print bed?\n\",mac,\"Based on your link in the comment, the cross-sectional area is the one on the X-Y axis (horizontal). The least area, the least material there is \"\"pulling up\"\" (curling) the layer when the plastic cools down.\n\nWhen it comes to your specific question:\n\n\n if I were to print a rectangular prism, would I want the long side of it printed in the vertical direction or parallel to the print bed?\n\n\n...the answer is not as simple as \"\"long side vertical\"\", as you want both little warping and strong parts and the two may be better achieved by differen orientations.\n\nPersonally I would base my choice on the intended application: as the difference between the Z and the X+Y axis is their behaviour under load is substantial. FDM artefacts are anisotropic: they resist very well to compression along the Z or tension along the X & Y axis, but are weak along the same axis if you invert the direction of the force applied. Again: this difference is not marginal but substantial.\n\nKeep in mind that \"\"area\"\" is actually \"\"printed area\"\", so you could have a model with a large footprint but a small printed area (think to the bottom of a Tour Eiffel model, or to a pipe standing up).\n\nWere I to experience warping or poor adhesion with a specific model, I would reduce the cross-sectional area in the model (by adding relief cuts and/or cavities) or in the slicer (by decreasing the density of the infill) or would tackle the issue fror another angle, for example by switching the bed material (some specialised surface with good adhesion for the type of filament in use) or creating the object I wanted with an assembly rather than in a solid piece... But again: it would be a second-order consideration for me, and I would worry about it only if the problem were actually manifesting for that specific model.\n\nFor example: say that I were to print the head of a hammer. I would print it with the surface that hits the nail parallel to the printing bed so that the compression force resulting from hitting a nail would be along the Z axis. The link of a chain? Flat on the bed, so that the pulling forces from stretching the chain would be aligned with the X and Y axis.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5451,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,David Reed,1.726248027126092,4.764157057215677,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Will lowering print temperature help warping?,\"I realize this issue (warping) has been repeatedly addressed on this site. I've just graduated to high-temp filaments (PC in particular). I don't know much of the physics of this. I'm wondering whether the degree to which the filament contracts is proportional to the amount that it cools. If the answer is yes, then wouldn't it suggest that a lower printing temperature might reduce warping-as the temperature interval over which the filament cools is smaller? Or perhaps the difference is negligible?\n\nAlso, I see a lot of emphasis placed on good first layer adhesion. Is this still an issue if you are printing on a raft?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"I can't address polycarbonate specifically, but can provide a general overview of the higher temperature filament considerations.\n\nPrinting on a raft means that the adhesion temperature of the filament is accomplished. This temperature is the factor to be considered if you are thinking of dropping the printing temperature. If you drop below recommended minimums, you risk losing adhesion to the build plate and also inter-layer bonding. That alone means one should use caution when dropping printing temperatures. \n\nPrinting with a raft usually means the model's individual parts have such a small footprint that they would not remain bonded to the build plate. Rafts are also used on printers with an uncertain planar surface or irregularities in the surface. That's not applicable to this question, generally speaking.\n\nYour question about contraction being proportional to the amount of cooling is perhaps misdirected. One could consider that the printing temperature is a manufacturer specified value and the cooled temperature would be generally considered room temperature. Room temperature would be addressed as a range, rather than a single value, but even as a range, there isn't going to be a big percentage of variation in the calculation involving the print temp/room temp.\n\nMy experience with the higher temperatures is more related to the volume of material per cross section (in all three dimensions). A printed model of substantial height with a relatively small horizontal cross section (think cylinder) is likely to have much less distortion in the x/y plane and greater distortion along the z-axis. The mass of filament cooling in the z-direction generates greater force than the smaller mass on the x/y axes.\n\nAnother factor in such thought processes is that layers are on the x/y axes and the strength of the extruded plastic is more homogeneous through the nozzle, while the z-direction creates inter-layer discontinuities, making warping and delamination easier.\n\nI've found that I can reduce (but not eliminate) warping and delamination if I am able to maintain chamber temperature for longer periods and reduce temperature slowly. Unfortunately, I have a semi-enclosed printer and the heat loss is dependent partly on the ambient air temperature. A fully enclosed heated printer with auxiliary heating under some form of control may give you the best results.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5451,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,David Reed,1.726248027126092,4.764157057215677,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Will lowering print temperature help warping?,\"I realize this issue (warping) has been repeatedly addressed on this site. I've just graduated to high-temp filaments (PC in particular). I don't know much of the physics of this. I'm wondering whether the degree to which the filament contracts is proportional to the amount that it cools. If the answer is yes, then wouldn't it suggest that a lower printing temperature might reduce warping-as the temperature interval over which the filament cools is smaller? Or perhaps the difference is negligible?\n\nAlso, I see a lot of emphasis placed on good first layer adhesion. Is this still an issue if you are printing on a raft?\n\",mac,\"The answer already provided by @fred_dot_u at the time of writing is good, so I won't rehash what they already said, but will try to answer your questions from another angle:\n\n\n I'm wondering whether the degree to which the filament contracts is proportional to the amount that it cools.\n\n\nYes. This is generally true for any solid material. This property is linked to the fundamental nature of matter in the way we understand it today.\n\n\n If the answer is yes, then wouldn't it suggest that a lower printing temperature might reduce warping-as the temperature interval over which the filament cools is smaller?\n\n\nShrinkage is the root cause of 3D prints warping, however warping itself happens because of the differential in temperature between layers: when a hot layer is extruded on top of a cold one and begins to contract, it will apply a compressing force on the layer underneath, bending it.\n\nIn fact - if warping were a function of shrinkage - an enclosure would do no good: sooner or later the print would cool down to room temperature, and would warp. The reason why - contrarily - an enclosure works, is that it limits the differential in temperature between layers (which causes warping) and lets the entire print too cool uniformly and slowly afterwards.\n\nSo, would...\n\n\n ...a lower printing temperature reduce warping? [...] Or perhaps the difference is negligible?\n\n\nNothing beats real world data, especially when the issue has so many variables that are difficult to account for, as in 3D printing, so I would invite you to simply try to print the same model twice, only changing the printing temperature (and of course making sure the environmental temperature is the same), and see if it does.\n\nFrom a theoretical standpoint, I could argue both ways.\n\nOn one end, I could argue that this is nothing different than using an enclosure set at a slightly warmer temperature than the environmental one, so it will reduce warping (even if by not much).\n\nOn the other hand, I could argue that until the filament is solid enough, it won't be able to \"\"pull\"\" the layer below, so it doesn't matter if the extrusion temperature (fluid state) is 230°C or 210°C, if until 190°C the filament won't begin to \"\"pull\"\". So warping will be identical.\n\n\n Also, I see a lot of emphasis placed on good first layer adhesion. Is this still an issue if you are printing on a raft?\n\n\nYes, as also the raft has a first layer that needs to adhere to the build plate. Rafts typically have a discontinuous and over-extruded first layer over a large area, which definitively helps with adhesion, but you still have to make sure the raft sticks well. In my experience it is far easier for a raft to come off the build-plate than for the model to come off the raft. YMMV though, as the material of the build-plate, and the slicer can dramatically affect this.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5464,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,David Reed,1.0891412423578797,3.851419429270912,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How to avoid warping when using supports,\"I find when printing with supports there will almost always be cracking/warping where the object intersects the support material (i.e. the areas that needed supports). Is there a way to avoid this?\n\nHere is an example of one of my first ever PLA prints that exhibited this behavior. As can be seen, the top part printed fine; the bottom part that had supports attached--not so much.\n\n\n\n\n\",mac,\"If I am iterpreting your picture correctly, what you are referring to as \"\"cracking and warping\"\" is simply the irregularities of the plastic where it rested on (and partially bonded with) the support material.\n\nUnluckily, apart from upgrading to a dual extruder printer (and use water-soluble filament for the support) or switching printing technology entirely (e.g.: using a sintering printer) you can only mitigate the problem, but the defects will remain, and will require post-processing to be rectified.\n\nSo, in no particular order, here's a list of the most common way to tackle this:\n\n\nUse a slicer that allows you to place support only where strictly needed. I have never used it myself as I am a FLOSS enthusiast, but - at the time of writing - among the mainstream ones only Simplify 3D offers this feature.\nIf your slicers does not support that, tweak your support material settings. In Cura (and for my printer/filament) - for example - it helps using \"\"support interfaces\"\" and leaving quite a XY gap between model and support.\nInstead of printing your model in one go, print it in multiple parts that you can then glue or assemble together. For example: the spaceship you took pictures of could be printed without any support at all if you were to cut it in half (back and front of the ship, the cylinder connecting cockpit and wings also cut in two).\nUse a material that can be chemically smoothed. Traditionally that would be ABS + acetone vapour, both of them cheap and toxic, but more recently it polysmooth has hit the market with a safer (and way more expensive) system. This approach will also improve the look and finish of the rest of the print (as also the layer marks will be smoothed out).\n\n\nAgain though... support material marks are sort of part of the game, when using FDM technology, so you should expect some sanding in most prints that required support.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5220,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,xoric,2.8153892694839717,5.856741100307919,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,How to configure Marlin to enable auto-fans with dual extruder,\"I have successfully assembled my 3D printer and configured Marlin for two extruders and one heated bed. Here is a picture of the printer.\n\n\n\nMy heated bed runs on a linear axis with ball bearings. When the printer has been running for an hour or so these parts get really hot and I am afraid that the plastic parts will melt if I print any longer or with higher temperatures. So I decided to add fans below the heated bed to keep them cool.\n\nA known problem when using two extruders and a heated bed is, that all three power outputs D8, D9, D10 are in use (D8 belongs to the first extruder, D9 to the bed, and D10 to the second extruder). If you want to have software-controlled fans on top of that, you need to use a workaround. I bought the RRD fan extender which does exactly what I need. You plug it into the RAMPS 1.4 board and get two new outputs D6 and D11.\n\n\n\nCurrently I have configured the firmware as follows:\n\n#define E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN 11\n#define E1_AUTO_FAN_PIN 6\n\n\nThis automatically enables the fan of the left extruder E0 when its hotend exceeds 50 °C. The same goes for the right extruder E1. The fans are plugged into the fan extender's outputs D6 and D11. It all works fine.\n\nNow to add fans to the heated bed, I have modified the firmware so that D11 controls both extruder fans. As long as at least one extruder is hot, both fans are running. For that purpose, both extruder fans are connected in parallel to D11 and the firmware setup looks like this:\n\n#define E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN 11\n#define E1_AUTO_FAN_PIN 11\n\n\nThat part works fine and was quite easy to achieve. What I would like to do now is connect the other pin, D6, to the temperature sensor of the heated bed, so that the fans underneath the bed are active when the bed is at 50 °C or more.\n\nI made several attempts to trick the firmware into believing that there are three hotends, registering the heated bed as E2. \n\n#define E2_AUTO_FAN_PIN 6\n\n\nI manually defined the temperature sensor of the bed for E2 and commented out some sanity checks and conditionals to enable those parts of the firmware that control the auto-fans. While I get the code to compile, the printer usually halts immediately after it is turned on or as soon as an extruder or the bed is activated. The error messages are not very helpful (\"\"killed, please restart\"\" etc).\n\nDoes anybody know a good way how to achieve my goal? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.\n\",xoric,\"After trying many different things, I found out that the solution is really simple and requires only a few lines of code. I'll answer my own question in the hope that this will help someone.\n\nFirst, I defined a few constants. To keep my own stuff as separate as possible, I made a new file that I called myconfig.h:\n\n#define MY_BED_TEMP_THRESHOLD 50\n#define MY_BED_AUTO_FAN_PIN 6\n#define MY_BED_AUTO_FAN_SPEED 255\n\n\nThe pin constant corresponds to D6 which is the green marked output of the RRD Fan Extender where I connected the fans under my bed.\n\n\n\nSecond, in the file temperature.cpp of the Marlin Firmware, I included my file and added four lines of code:\n\n... \n#if HAS_AUTO_FAN\n\n void Temperature::checkExtruderAutoFans() {\n\n ...\n\n HOTEND_LOOP() {\n if (current_temperature[e] > EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_TEMPERATURE)\n SBI(fanState, fanBit[e]);\n }\n\n\n // --- start of my code ----------\n if (current_temperature_bed > MY_BED_TEMP_THRESHOLD)\n digitalWrite(MY_BED_AUTO_FAN_PIN, MY_BED_AUTO_FAN_SPEED);\n else\n digitalWrite(MY_BED_AUTO_FAN_PIN, 0); \n // --- end of my code ------------\n\n ...\n\n#endif // HAS_AUTO_FAN \n...\n\n\nNow my fans are automatically turned on while the bed temperature is higher than 50 °C and are turned off again after the bed has cooled down far enough.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n5221,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,12345,2.1782824847157594,5.5752292178375695,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,How do I use MEGA pin number designations rather than RAMPS pin numbers in marlin,\"I am designing my own shield for the MEGA2650 that I will use to control my printer. \n\nWhen defining pins in the marlin firmware, the pin numbers are the pin numbers of the RAMPS shield and not the Arduino MEGA itself.\n\nHow can I define pins so that I could write #define HEATER1PIN 5 and it will make heater1pin be on Arduino MEGA's pin 5 and NOT RAMPS's pin 5\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The pin mapping that Marlin uses is defined in the file fastio_1280.h:\n\n/**\n * Pin mapping for the 1280 and 2560\n *\n * 1280 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 53 52 51 50 10 11 12 13 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 21 20 19 18 81 82 83 38 00 01 78 05 02 03 79 80 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 41 40 39 71 70 04 17 16 84 06 07 08 09 85 15 14 72 73 75 76 77 74 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42\n * Port A0 A1 A2 A3 A4 A5 A6 A7 B0 B1 B2 B3 B4 B5 B6 B7 C0 C1 C2 C3 C4 C5 C6 C7 D0 D1 D2 D3 D4 D5 D6 D7 E0 E1 E2 E3 E4 E5 E6 E7 F0 F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 G0 G1 G2 G3 G4 G5 H0 H1 H2 H3 H4 H5 H6 H7 J0 J1 J2 J3 J4 J5 J6 J7 K0 K1 K2 K3 K4 K5 K6 K7 L0 L1 L2 L3 L4 L5 L6 L7\n * Marlin 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85\n*/\n\n\nConfusingly, the line labeled \"\"1280\"\" refers to the pin numbers as used by Marlin. The line labeled with \"\"port\"\" gives the corresponding port/pin combination as it applies to the AtMega2560 chip itself. To translate between the port numbers given above, and the Arduino Mega pin numbers, you can use the following pinout diagram:\n\n\nLicensed under CC-BY-SA, www.bq.com\n\nFor instance, according to the pin mapping in fastio_1280.h, Marlin pin 34 is \"\"port\"\" C3. This corresponds to PC3 in the pinout diagram, which is Arduino Mega A11. Conversely, if we want to find out what PWM pin 9 is in Marlin, we can look at the diagram to find out it corresponds to PH6, which is Marlin pin 09.\n\nIf you want to change this numbering, then unfortunately, you have to make quite a few modifications to fastio_1280.h. For instance, the \"\"reason\"\" pin 5 corresponds to the pin it does, is the following set of definitions:\n\n#define DIO5_PIN PINE3\n#define DIO5_RPORT PINE\n#define DIO5_WPORT PORTE\n#define DIO5_DDR DDRE\n#define DIO5_PWM &OCR3AL\n\n\nIf you wanted to point pin 5 towards another pin, you'd need to change all of these lines to point to the correct registers and pin numbers.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5226,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Horitsu,2.528907649931287,4.254507728602308,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Problems with support interface since cura 3.1,\"Since i updated Cura from 2.7. to 3.1. I have a really hard time at configuration and especially removing the support interfaces. The update automatically uses the settings from the old version, but as I said: it doesn't work anymore.\n\nI even tried to create a test print with 4 copies of a test object with different settings, but there where no differences in the slicing for them. Every copy and the support interface that belongs to it was the same. \n\nDid anybody have an idea? \n\nPrinter Anet A8 with PLA \n\",Horitsu,\"In Cura 3.1 to 3.2.1 (date today is 2018-Feb-24): The Support Z Distance only changes the Support Bottom Distance and NOT the Support Top Distance. By activating the two sub-options you can configure this again.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n6904,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Horitsu,2.8153892694839717,3.792318219258671,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.548335113978322,3.9829738809469584,Does auto leveling result in sheared prints?,\"I asked this question as a small question under an answer of another question (How bed leveling is achieved without table screws?), but have been asked to post this as a separate question to answer it with more detail conform SE policy.\n\n\n\nOne question with respect to automatic bed leveling (also known as ABL): If the bed is tilted and the auto leveling measured this and then the printer adjust the z axis over the position on the bed, will a x-y-point on the first layer be located exactly under the (in model) same x-y-point in a higher layer, or will it be shifted to? I mean, if the bed is 1 mm lower on one side over 10 cm then a top corner of a 10-cm-cube should be also 1 mm shifted, so that the cube still is real cubic and not sheared.\n\",0scar,\"Using automatic bed leveling assists you in getting the print to stick better to the build platform as a result of the print head following the un-uniform geometry or tilt of the build plate. \n\nIn, e.g. Marlin Firmware, the bed level correction is fading out over a predefined distance, this is determined by the constant #define ENABLE_LEVELING_FADE_HEIGHT in the printer firmware Configuration.h file and the height can be set with M420 Z<height> (see here). \n\n\nM420 S1 ; Enable compensation using current grid/mesh\nM420 Z10 ; Gradually reduce compensation until Z=10\n\n\n\nYes, a cube will not be perfectly cubic, that is why even with auto bed leveling you need to provide a bed as level as possible, it only should correct for very small deviations.\n\nWhen the print is smaller than the fade out height, you would indeed get a sheared print, if larger, then the top of the print would be level with respect to the reference plane (this is the level of the x-y plane, basically the level of the hot end carriage). Note that that still can be skew if the printer is improperly calibrated (e.g. when using 2 Z steppers or misalignment of the height on either side).\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n8334,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Horitsu,2.1782824847157594,3.6723553103068682,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,Anet A8 stops printing,\"I have an issue with my Anet A8 printer and how it interlocks with Ultimaker Cura. \n\nI want to print this file named Loki_hörner_v2.stland Cura slices it fine, but when it comes to printing all the preheat happens, but then it stops, not going on at all. What might be wrong here?\n\",Trish,\"Avoid naming .gcode files with non-ASCII characters\n\n(this includes EASCII)\n\nI know of no firmware on a printer that can handle files that have characters not present in the set of 95 non-control American Standard Code for Information Interchange characters by default. Marlin, for example, can't process the characters ä ö ü & € as these all are missing in the ASCII.\n\nAvoid having more than one .\n\nNowadays the . is no longer a fully reserved character in file names, so a file can be named 0.5mm Gauge Block.stl on Windows without problems.\n\nUltimaker Cura will cut the name at the . before the extension when generating the .gcode. This is mainly done to prevent tons of errors that could crop up in firmware that might not be able to deal with it. Remember that this behavior can lead to overwriting files - our 0.5mm Gauge Block.stl would generate 0.gcode, as would 0.1.5 Penholder.stl (that follows a version naming convention).\n\nAvoid reserved characters\n\nAlso note that some characters are reserved in file naming and will lead to other errors (mainly when trying to create the files in the first place), including, but not limited to, / \\ : ? *. \n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n8334,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Horitsu,2.1782824847157594,3.6723553103068682,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,Anet A8 stops printing,\"I have an issue with my Anet A8 printer and how it interlocks with Ultimaker Cura. \n\nI want to print this file named Loki_hörner_v2.stland Cura slices it fine, but when it comes to printing all the preheat happens, but then it stops, not going on at all. What might be wrong here?\n\",Horitsu,\"Special characters like Ä Ö or Ü in the stl-filename resulted in Ultimaker Cura creating a comment of the filename in the g-code that read like \n\n;MESH:Loki_hörner_v2.stl\n\n\nThis apparently could not be parsed by the Anet A8, leading to an error and halt.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n5227,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Christoph,3.267423727073639,4.156257367177759,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,\"Getting started: shell passes not fusing in x/y, and a slanted wavy pattern on vertical walls\",\"I'm trying to find the main reason(s) for the imperfections I'm seeing in printouts from my printer. It is an I3 clone from Folger Tech. I got this printer from a friend who used it to print a larger one, so the mechanics are apparently fine to the point that they are capable of producing something of decent quality.\n\nFilament: 1.75 mm black PLA from Janbex, unpacked three days ago, in \"\"normal\"\" appartment air since then.\n\nNozzle: 0.4 mm, apparently clean enough since I can push filament through the hot nozzle by hand and it comes out straight after some slight initial pigtailing. The nozzle had also been used for ABS earlier. \n\nHowever, I have some trouble getting a 20x20x5 mm³ cube right. Two imperfections that bug me most are:\n\n\nA wavy pattern is visible on all vertical walls, with slanted wave fronts that \"\"wrap\"\" around the edges. If a string is printed along y and ends with a \"\"hill\"\", the following string along x starts with a \"\"hill\"\" as well. The wavelength is pretty much constant throughout the layers.\nNot fully fused shell perimeters. The perimeters do touch at certain spots, which also show a regular distance from each other. These touching spots seem to coincide with \"\"hills\"\" on the outside\n\n\nI tried a slower print speed and higher temperature. This part has been printed at 40 mm/s for infill and perimeter, external perimeters and first layer at 20 mm/s, 205 °C, and flow rate 110%:\n\n\n\nThe full slic3r settings as they were appended to the generated G-Code:\n\n; avoid_crossing_perimeters = 0\n; bed_shape = 0x0,200x0,200x200,0x200\n; bed_temperature = 60\n; before_layer_gcode = \n; bridge_acceleration = 0\n; bridge_fan_speed = 100\n; brim_width = 0\n; complete_objects = 0\n; cooling = 1\n; default_acceleration = 0\n; disable_fan_first_layers = 3\n; duplicate_distance = 6\n; end_gcode = M104 S0 ; turn off temperature\\nG28 X0 ; home X axis\\nM84 ; disable motors\\n\\n\n; extruder_clearance_height = 20\n; extruder_clearance_radius = 20\n; extruder_offset = 0x0\n; extrusion_axis = E\n; extrusion_multiplier = 1.1\n; fan_always_on = 0\n; fan_below_layer_time = 60\n; filament_colour = #FFFFFF\n; filament_diameter = 1.75\n; first_layer_acceleration = 0\n; first_layer_bed_temperature = 65\n; first_layer_extrusion_width = 200%\n; first_layer_speed = 50%\n; first_layer_temperature = 205\n; gcode_arcs = 0\n; gcode_comments = 0\n; gcode_flavor = reprap\n; infill_acceleration = 0\n; infill_first = 0\n; layer_gcode = \n; max_fan_speed = 100\n; max_print_speed = 80\n; max_volumetric_speed = 0\n; min_fan_speed = 35\n; min_print_speed = 10\n; min_skirt_length = 0\n; notes = \n; nozzle_diameter = 0.4\n; only_retract_when_crossing_perimeters = 1\n; ooze_prevention = 0\n; output_filename_format = [input_filename_base].gcode\n; perimeter_acceleration = 0\n; post_process = \n; pressure_advance = 0\n; resolution = 0\n; retract_before_travel = 2\n; retract_layer_change = 0\n; retract_length = 2\n; retract_length_toolchange = 10\n; retract_lift = 0\n; retract_restart_extra = 0\n; retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0\n; retract_speed = 40\n; skirt_distance = 6\n; skirt_height = 2\n; skirts = 6\n; slowdown_below_layer_time = 5\n; spiral_vase = 0\n; standby_temperature_delta = -5\n; start_gcode = M42 P6 S0 ; enable fan\\nG28 ; home all axes\\nG1 Z4 F1000 ; lift nozzle\\n\n; temperature = 205\n; threads = 2\n; toolchange_gcode = \n; travel_speed = 130\n; use_firmware_retraction = 0\n; use_relative_e_distances = 0\n; use_volumetric_e = 0\n; vibration_limit = 0\n; wipe = 0\n; z_offset = -0.05\n; dont_support_bridges = 1\n; extrusion_width = 0\n; first_layer_height = 90%\n; infill_only_where_needed = 0\n; interface_shells = 0\n; layer_height = 0.2\n; raft_layers = 0\n; seam_position = aligned\n; support_material = 0\n; support_material_angle = 0\n; support_material_contact_distance = 0.2\n; support_material_enforce_layers = 0\n; support_material_extruder = 1\n; support_material_extrusion_width = 0\n; support_material_interface_extruder = 1\n; support_material_interface_layers = 3\n; support_material_interface_spacing = 0\n; support_material_interface_speed = 100%\n; support_material_pattern = pillars\n; support_material_spacing = 2.5\n; support_material_speed = 50\n; support_material_threshold = 0\n; xy_size_compensation = 0\n; bottom_solid_layers = 3\n; bridge_flow_ratio = 1\n; bridge_speed = 50\n; external_fill_pattern = rectilinear\n; external_perimeter_extrusion_width = 0\n; external_perimeter_speed = 50%\n; external_perimeters_first = 0\n; extra_perimeters = 1\n; fill_angle = 45\n; fill_density = 30%\n; fill_pattern = line\n; gap_fill_speed = 20\n; infill_every_layers = 1\n; infill_extruder = 1\n; infill_extrusion_width = 0\n; infill_overlap = 15%\n; infill_speed = 40\n; overhangs = 1\n; perimeter_extruder = 1\n; perimeter_extrusion_width = 0\n; perimeter_speed = 40\n; perimeters = 3\n; small_perimeter_speed = 20\n; solid_infill_below_area = 70\n; solid_infill_every_layers = 0\n; solid_infill_extruder = 1\n; solid_infill_extrusion_width = 0\n; solid_infill_speed = 20\n; thin_walls = 1\n; top_infill_extrusion_width = 0\n; top_solid_infill_speed = 15\n; top_solid_layers = 0\n\n\nWhat can cause this wave pattern? What I don't think it is:\n\n\nIt's not acceleration, because the pattern doesn't start right behind a corner or other feature that requires the printer to de- or accelerate.\nIt's not just related to x or y, because the pattern travels around the part without interruptions\nTemperature is probably not too low since the first layer sticks very well above 195 °C, I've even seen some warping now at 205.\nFilament comes in without obstacles, it's not stuck on its way to the extruder.\n\n\nMy guess is that my extruder is somehow extruding in waves, but I have no clue how exactly to nail that down or how it could be fixed.\n\nI gradually raised the temperature until I reached 205 °C, because with my first prints the infill was just a mess of strings. Also note that I'm a beginner - this is the first part I'm printing.\n\nEdit: hollow print with just one perimeter shell\n\nAs suggested by mac I printed a cube with no infill and just one perimeter shell. All other settings were as above. This took a while because I had to build a light box first to create this shot:\n\n\nWhat I noted during the print:\n\n\nThe first layer is really flat. If I had a picture of that, I'd go brag about it.\nI'm not sure about the second layer, but as you can see above the third bottom layer shows a wavy pattern as well. Those waves apparently also occur when the head is moving in 45°, not just x or y. Wave phase seems to be different as the head goes back and forth.\nThe perimeter looks a bit grainy.\nEvery layer starts at the corner pointing right, where the part has a slight bulge. I don't necessarily interpret that as overextrusion, since the sides with the bulge are closer to the target length than the others (20.00 +- 0.025 vs. about 19.85 +- 0.025. I have mechanical calipers with 0.05 mm resolution and am able to use them appropriately)\nThe part was not cooled with a fan because I have none.\nI noticed slight vibrations on the extruder, probably coming from the extruder fan. However, the frequency of those vibrations is much higher than that of the wavy pattern I see in the print. I will replace the fan.\nThe steppers axes and pulleys seem to run true. Take this with a grain of salt because the pulleys don't even make a full revolution during one perimeter pass!\nThe linear bearings fit nicely.\nSide note: since this print has only one perimeter shell, there's no chance for multiple perimeter shells to not fuse completely [like they did/didn't (? - not a native speaker) in the original print].\n\n\nEdit 2: Cylinder with 100% flow rate (not 110%), 20% concentric infill and 3 perimeter shells\n\n\n\n\nThe outmost infill layer touches the perimeter, so I have 4 perimeters effectively\nThere's a wavy pattern around the perimeter, and the concentric infill looks like it's really getting thicker and thinner along the way.\nThe part is oriented just like the second cube above, with each layer starting to the right.\nThe starting point has a slight dent (not a bulge as before), as if start and end of the circles didn't touch.\nSlight oozing between infill circles, where the head moved from an outer circle to the next. The outmost infill circle was printed first. Infill circles started to the left. Temperature might be too high.\n\n\nEdit 3: Something useful - stackable trays with slic3r Prusa Edition\n\nI designed this stackable tray (60 x 60 x 15 mm, 2 mm wall thickness) in openSCAD and used slic3r Prusa Edition to process it. The first tray is with 100% extrusion width (200% for the first layer) and 40 mm/s (I can't add the whole set of settings now, but will do so if necessary):\n\n\n\n\n\nPrinting time for the above part: about 90 minutes.\n\nThen I increased both printing speed to 50 mm/s and extrusion width to 105%, and expected a quicker print. This is the result:\n\n\n\n\nI was surprised to see that this tray, despite the 25% increase in \"\"main printing speed\"\", needed about 120 minutes (that's 30 more than with the settings for the first tray).\n\nBoth parts are usable (and they stack), but the bottom wall is a bit bumpy from ripped apart infill. Other observations:\n\n\nThe walls appear to have fused better than with the original slic3r (I don't know why), so that might just be a plus of the Prusa Edition. However, other parts might turn out worse.\nThere's still a wavy pattern, especially on the bottom wall.\nThe vertical walls still look and feel a bit grainy.\nI had \"\"whiskers\"\" forming where the nozzle approaches the next feature to print (best visible in the first picture of the tray labeled \"\"1\"\"). So where the nozzle is approaching from the right, a whisker formed from bottom left to top right. This is probably a tower that builds up from slight oozing, and easy to remove.\n\n\",mac,\"First off: thank you for a very well asked question, with lots of data and info to work with. :)\n\n\n My guess is that my extruder is somehow extruding in waves, but I have no clue how exactly to nail that down or how it could be fixed.\n\n\nFrom the picture is difficult to verify this. If it is an extrusion problem, the thickness of the filament deposed will vary. I would suggest to print the same cube without infill and with single (0.4 mm) shell thickness. to be absolutely sure. If your hypothesis is correct, the wall will thin and fatten, if you are not, it will be just wavy, but its thickness will be constant.\n\nEDIT: If it is an extrusion amount problem, the issue may be either with the extruder stepper (see below) or with the filament having an inconsistent diameter (check with a caliper). If this is the case, also check that your hobbed wheel (the \"\"cog\"\" biting into your filament to pull it in the extruder) has consistent diameter and all of its teeth are equally sharp.\n\nIn general, this kind of regular, cyclical defects, are linked to rotating parts being misaligned. Off the top of my head, I would suggest to verify in this order:\n\n\nthat the axis of all the stepper motors (X, Y and extruder) run true (if you place a finger on them while they spin, you will immediately be able to feel if they wobble).\nthat the matching pulley on each axis (where the timing belt loops back) runs also true on its axis.\nthat the bearings (if any) that allow the extruder and the bed on their axis also runs true, and clamp firmly but not too hard their rail.\n\n\nEDIT 2: I just thought to clarify that the above assumes the problem is mechanical. Another reason for the defects could of course be electronic, for example electromagnetic interference from some other appliance or a defective electronic component may have your stepper driver have a fluctuating output, thus driving the stepper motor even so slightly back and forth... but I'm not that knowledgeable in electronics, so I wouldn't know how to diagnose that without specialised instruments...\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5230,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jack Casas,2.8153892694839717,3.4943961588206536,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,My printer is printing a messy ball. CTC prusa from Ebay,\"I bought this cheap prusa i3 variation from eBay. I setup everything and now I'm trying to print some gcode file from the SD card. Using PLA.\n\nHere is a video of the mess! How can so fix this situation?:\n\nhttps://youtu.be/Vz46tCcrtMI\n\nI have no clue about how to generate gcode files, so I just took the ones from the manufacturer CD.\n\nAre there any gcode files I can download for correctly tuning and calibrating my printer. I would like to know that my hardware setup is right, before getting into the software stuff\n\nThanks.\n\",Adrian W,\"Looks like you need to adjust the print bed level. When z=0, the nozzle should be 0.1mm above the printing surface - and that needs to be at every point of the printing area. Instructions on how to adjust this should come with your printer.\n\nEssentially, the procedure is as follows (you should be able to issue these commands directly on your printer, so no gcode is needed):\n\n\nauto home, i.e. all axes go to 0.\ndisable steppers, so you are able to move the print bed and the x-axis\nput a sheet of paper on the print table. The thickness of ordinary paper is around 0.1mm, so that's good for calibrating.\nnow move the nozzle around the print bed. There should be a slight (!) friction between the paper and the nozzle and this friction should be the same everywhere. If not, use the screws on the four corners to adjust the level of the print bed. Do not attempt to fully correct any deviation at once, because this might bend the print bed. Make several rounds and adjust the screws by 1/2 turn only on each round. This is a tedious procedure but it is really required.\n\n\nFinally, when the nozzle is at 0.1mm above the print bed in z=0, you should be able to print and the filament should adhere to the bed.\n\nA heated bed also helps.\n\nP.S.: For generating gcode files, you need a slicer. For the very first steps, I found Cura quite easy to use: you feed it with .stl files and it will slice it internally. Currently, I am using slic3r (and pronterface for controlling the printer itself).\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5232,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Blueize,2.1782824847157594,3.372103450567224,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,\"Sunhokey Prusa i3 axis x, y, z?\",\"My Sunhokey Prusa i3 arrived with a corrupted disc. I'm awaiting a new one and finished the mechanical build via YouTube videos. \n\nI've no clue which motor controls the X, Y, and Z, axes. I\"\"m not even positive which axis is which. YouTube vids don't show the origin of all the wires/cables/cords they connect. \n\nAnyone know of any CLEAR and Normal speed (or slow-able) vid/diagram that shows the electronics wiring in detail? \n\",Greenonline,\"This diagram would appear to show the connections to the controller board. Taken from 3D Printer: Sunhokey prusa i3 2015 review\n\n\n \n\n\nRefer to Mark's answer for what axis/component each stepper motor controls.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5232,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Blueize,2.1782824847157594,3.372103450567224,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,\"Sunhokey Prusa i3 axis x, y, z?\",\"My Sunhokey Prusa i3 arrived with a corrupted disc. I'm awaiting a new one and finished the mechanical build via YouTube videos. \n\nI've no clue which motor controls the X, Y, and Z, axes. I\"\"m not even positive which axis is which. YouTube vids don't show the origin of all the wires/cables/cords they connect. \n\nAnyone know of any CLEAR and Normal speed (or slow-able) vid/diagram that shows the electronics wiring in detail? \n\",markshancock,\"X-axis is right-to-left (Carriage motor)\n\nY-axis is front-to-back (Base/Bed motor)\n\nZ-axis is up-and-down (lead screws)\n\nThere are several videos on YouTube.\nThis playlist seems good.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5234,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,joshkmartinez,2.528907649931287,5.46694987402377,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Warping of bottom of print,\"The bottom of my prints warp/curve upwards, most often at the corners. This is a very slight curve, only about 1-2mm.\nI print with a raft all the time.\nI don't have a heated bed.\nI print with PLA at 390F with a print speed of approximately 40mm\n\nI have a Sindoh 3Dwox dp201.\n\nWhat slicer settings might be the cause of this phenomena?\nOr could it be 3d printer settings?\n\",Valmond,\"If you have a heat bed, heat it up accordingly (for example for PLA 50°C first layers, 40°C then can be a good starting point).\n\nIf the first layer isn't close enough, then warping can happen (Happened to me when moving from 0.3mm layers to 0.1mm).\n\nIf you are under extruding / have dirt in the system (the heat chamber) so that extrusion is uneven it can make warps.\n\nAnd as always, you can try to print slower, it helps not always but often.\n\nPlease also do tell what temperatures (heat bed & nozzle) you are using and what material.\n\nHTH\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5234,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,joshkmartinez,2.528907649931287,5.46694987402377,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Warping of bottom of print,\"The bottom of my prints warp/curve upwards, most often at the corners. This is a very slight curve, only about 1-2mm.\nI print with a raft all the time.\nI don't have a heated bed.\nI print with PLA at 390F with a print speed of approximately 40mm\n\nI have a Sindoh 3Dwox dp201.\n\nWhat slicer settings might be the cause of this phenomena?\nOr could it be 3d printer settings?\n\",mac,\"The first thing to understand is what causes warping. Warping is caused by the thermal contraction of the plastic when it cools down.\n\nSimplifying things a fair bit, you can visualise the process like this:\n\n\nhot, expanded plastic gets deposited on cooler, shrunk layers,\nwhen the hot plastic cools down, it shrinks and pulls the upper part of the layer below inwards\nat this point, the layer below has a differential in the compression between its upper and lower parts, and curls up\nthe problem is exacerbated at the very first layer (the one touching the bed) as this is \"\"locked\"\" to a rigid body (the bed) and cannot shrink, while subsequent layers are only attached to the somewhat flexible plastic beneath, and thus can contract.\n\n\n\n\nAlso notice that the larger the part being printed, the stronger is the force trying to curl-up your print.\n\nOnce one understands all of this, then it is possible to appreciate the many ways the problem can be mitigated.\n\nHere are the common ones:\n\nUSING A MATERIAL WITH LOW SHRINKAGE COEFFICIENT\n\nThis translates in smaller tensions and thus less force \"\"pulling up\"\" the corners of your print. Historically, 3D printing started with ABS because this material was one of the very few, relatively safe ones to source. Nowadays there are materials like PETG which have similar mechanical properties to ABS but are much easier and forgiving to print with, so - unless you need ABS for some very specific reason (e.g.: acetone smoothing) consider never printing with it.\n\nDECREASING THE THERMAL DIFFERENCE BETWEEN MOLTEN AND SOLID STATE\n\nConcretely, this means lowering the \"\"gap\"\" between the ~200°C of the nozzle and the ~20°C of room temperature by using a heated bed and - possibly - an enclosure.\n\nThe heated bed not only drastically diminish the shrinkage of the first layer, but because heat radiates, and hot air goes upwards, the entire bottom of the print has shrinkage mitigated.\n\nAn enclosure just increase the benefit of the heating bed, by reflecting IR radiation back towards the print and preventing hot air to escape. A heated enclosure just improve things even further.\n\nSome slicers offer a \"\"shroud\"\" option, that encloses the entire print in an enclosed, sacrificial structure, that tries to emulate the benefits of a proper printer enclosure.\n\nINCREASING ADHESION WITH THE PRINTING BED\n\nThat is the \"\"brutal force\"\" approach: if you face a strong \"\"curl up\"\" force, oppose it with a strong \"\"anchor down\"\" one.\n\nThe increase in adhesion can be achieved in a number of ways:\n\n\nLower print speed (more time for the molten plastic to \"\"bond\"\")\nOverextrusion (more pressure, more material)\nDisabling cooling fan (more progressive cooling, more time to \"\"bond\"\")\nUsing a brim (more contact surface between print and bed)\nUsing \"\"ad hoc\"\" material on the bed (PVA glue for PLA, ABS sludge for ABS, kapton tape, hair spray, blue tape, etc...)\n\n\nREDUCING THE CURL-UP FORCE\n\nThis is typically achieved during design. Designing is a vast field and it would be impossible to cover all the possible mitigating strategies one could use, but here are some of the most common ones:\n\n\nPrefer assembling smaller parts over printing huge ones. This is self explanatory really, as the curling force increases with the amount of material \"\"pulling\"\", the least material one has, the less force one gets.\nMake relief holes above the first layers in long structures. This will essentially \"\"break\"\" the build-up of tension in the layer, creating many points with a little \"\"curling up force\"\" rather than two with a huge one. Something along the lines of this, for example:\n\n\n\n\n\nAvoid extensive overhangs close to the bottom of the print (this is because otherwise you will have considerably more material \"\"pulling up\"\" than you will have \"\"anchoring down\"\". Here is an example of what not to do (to be fair: this was specifically taken from a bed adhesion/warping test).\n\n\n\n\nOf course all of the above strategies can/should be combined, when possible. Even if not warped, a part with a lot of internal tension will perform less predictably and possibly worse than a part where such tensions are lower.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n5239,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Léobaillard,1.726248027126092,4.549530902034997,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Auto bed leveling with BL Touch sensor crashing to bed,\"I'm new to 3d printing and I recently bought a Geeetech Prusa i3 Pro B along with a BL Touch (3D touch) sensor to do auto bed leveling.\n\nI printed the sensor holder, mounted it and the sensor to the extruder carriage and uploaded a configured Marlin firmware to the printer. It worked great for about 6 times and now, it crashes on the bed on the two points on the right of the bed.\n\nI tried manually leveling the bed thinking that the nozzle was touching the bed plate before the sensor's needle could, but that's not the case. Even with the bed manually leveled, when using G29 (Auto Bed Leveling code), the Z-axis carriage crashes into the bed.\n\nWhat can I do/check?\n\",Léobaillard,\"As it turns out, my Z-axis carriage mount to the X-axis was bent, causing the nozzle to touch the bed before the proble could get a chance to detect anything. Manually bending it back to the correct angle solved the problem.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5245,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Alberto Méndez,2.528907649931287,3.1447983993774047,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Oversized pieces,\"After a long time tweaking my new 3D printer I solved all the unexpected errors and I can print succesful pieces but I am facing a \"\"problem\"\", they are over sized, I found this problem trying to print a Raspberry Pi Case and an smartphone case, the printed pieces are bigger than the objects. \n\nHere some related information\n\nPrinter: Geeetech Prusa i3 Pro B\n\nFirmware: My GitHub (Marlin)\n\nSoftware: Repetier Host with Slic3r\n\nDoes somebody know how could I solve it?\nThank you very much\n\",Gunslinger,\"You have to know:\n\n\ndistance between belt teeth (usually 2mm)\nnumber of teeth on pulley\nmotor step angle 1.8 deg?\nmicrostepping count, probably 16?\n\n\nThen you can enter all these numbers info the calculator here:\nhttps://www.prusaprinters.org/calculator/\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5245,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Alberto Méndez,2.528907649931287,3.1447983993774047,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Oversized pieces,\"After a long time tweaking my new 3D printer I solved all the unexpected errors and I can print succesful pieces but I am facing a \"\"problem\"\", they are over sized, I found this problem trying to print a Raspberry Pi Case and an smartphone case, the printed pieces are bigger than the objects. \n\nHere some related information\n\nPrinter: Geeetech Prusa i3 Pro B\n\nFirmware: My GitHub (Marlin)\n\nSoftware: Repetier Host with Slic3r\n\nDoes somebody know how could I solve it?\nThank you very much\n\",Alberto Méndez,\"I finally solved it by manually adjusting the steps per unit in the printer firmware. \n\nThe process is easy just move the extruder to one position and draw two marks, one at the extruder position and another one 10 cm in the X axis from the extruder position then with Repetier or with the the printer controls move the X axis 100 mm, if the extruder stops after the mark reduce the steps per unit or increase them if the extruder stops before the mark, do until the movement matches both marks. Repeat for the Y axis.\n\nYou can see the changes I made to the firmware in my GitHub\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5246,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Plodmore,2.1782824847157594,3.8056075277672616,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Z axis stopped part way through print,\"I got an Anet A8 for Christmas.\n\nI am trying to print a calibration tower and the z axis stops lifting at approximately 100mm.\n\nI checked that the gantry is able to travel along the full length of the threaded rods, and while resetting the bed height I noticed that the LCD display showed the extruder height above the bed. It reads 0 at home (good) but goes back to zero when I manually turn the rods so that the gantry goes above the heigh at which the print stopped.\n\nAny thoughts on what to check? I am double checking all the mechanical bits (connection to stepper coupling, ease of turning, etc...). \n\nMy slicer is Cura 3.1.\n\",Plodmore,\"I found two issues:\n\n\nWhile cutting the cables to size, I made the cable for the z-axis too short.\nIn Cura the y height reset to 100mm rather than the 240mm I had earlier specified. I assume the G-code I used was sliced with the wrong settings.\n\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n5257,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Plodmore,2.528907649931287,5.524404568462496,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,0.9784382375735183,Connecting Anet A8 to PC issue,\"I am still at calibration stage and need some info from the PCB. I connected the USB and ran Repetier. The PCB wants to talk at a higher baud rate than my serial port says it can do. I tried setting the serial port to its highest setting 125k and reduced the PCB baud in Repetier setting to 125k. No joy. PC port reverts to 9600 every time I check it. Thoughts?\n\nPC running Windows 7 Home Premium 32bit.\n\",Mick,\"Are you sure that the A8 connects to a PC using a serial port? I don't know of any 3D printers that do that. Typically, 3D printers connect to PCs using a USB connection, and there will be a type-B USB socket on the printer.\n\nHowever, there will be a USB bridge chip on the printer's controller board that connects the microcontroller to the USB socket. This bridge chip does have a serial port that is used to communicate with the microcontroller. Typically, these serial ports operate at 115,200 bits per second (115.2 kbps), although this may vary. Some USB bridge chips are capable of operating at 250kbps.\n\nOften, the software running on the PC needs to know what speed the serial port on the bridge chip runs at, in order to send data at a suitable rate. Of course, the USB connection is capable of handling data at a much higher rate, but the microcontrollers used in many 3D printers are not capable of handling such speeds.\n\nNote that the USB bridge chip on the printer may appear as a virtual COM port on a PC.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5257,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Plodmore,2.528907649931287,5.524404568462496,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,0.9784382375735183,Connecting Anet A8 to PC issue,\"I am still at calibration stage and need some info from the PCB. I connected the USB and ran Repetier. The PCB wants to talk at a higher baud rate than my serial port says it can do. I tried setting the serial port to its highest setting 125k and reduced the PCB baud in Repetier setting to 125k. No joy. PC port reverts to 9600 every time I check it. Thoughts?\n\nPC running Windows 7 Home Premium 32bit.\n\",Plodmore,\"Sorted. Repetier Server was hijacking my com port. Uninstalled it and Repetier host worked fine. As I have no desire to monitor or control prints remotely I have no use for the server software.\n\nHope that helps others.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n5333,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Plodmore,2.528907649931287,5.485060410914817,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Anet A8 Calibrated but print sizes are wrong,\"Anet A8 printer, Github Marlin, Repetier Host, Cura slicer\n\nJust setting up printer and printed 20mm calibration cube from Thingiverse. X,Y,Z & E not too far off but not quite right (centre hole was oval not round) X19.5mm, Y19.5mm & Z20mm.\n\nFollowed Youtube calibration help and updated firmware to Marlin. I ran several iterations of request travel, measure result and tweek stepper settings (M501,M92xxxx, M500) Live Die Repeat...\n\nWhen I now print the calibration cube I get X25mm, Y20mm & Z19.5mm.\n\nCould the issue be with the firmare being upgraded to Marlin? The cube was sliced by Cura and I have used the same file for all of the prints. When I stop the print and ask Repetier to move the steppers the distance is as they should be for a 100mm travel.\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"If you have a stock printer, your calibration values should be stock - i.e. 100 steps/mm for X/Y. Also, as an extra hint, X and Y steps should be identical since the mechanics are identical (unless you swapped out one of the motors or drive gears).\n\nIt sounds like you have Y correct, but something wrong with X. This could be the belt being damaged, or slipping (or having slipped during your initial cal, and not later). Try increasing/decreasing print speed, this might show up some dynamic problems with the movement.\n\nIf you print something bigger (like this) you don't need to worry so much about measurement precision and under/over-extrusion (which adds to the error, but doesn't scale with size).\n\nYou don't make it clear if you've started by calibrating your extruder. This is the most important first step, and ensures that you extrude the right length of filament during the print. All this requires is that you mark out 10cm of filament and extrude it into free space.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5333,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Plodmore,2.528907649931287,5.485060410914817,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Anet A8 Calibrated but print sizes are wrong,\"Anet A8 printer, Github Marlin, Repetier Host, Cura slicer\n\nJust setting up printer and printed 20mm calibration cube from Thingiverse. X,Y,Z & E not too far off but not quite right (centre hole was oval not round) X19.5mm, Y19.5mm & Z20mm.\n\nFollowed Youtube calibration help and updated firmware to Marlin. I ran several iterations of request travel, measure result and tweek stepper settings (M501,M92xxxx, M500) Live Die Repeat...\n\nWhen I now print the calibration cube I get X25mm, Y20mm & Z19.5mm.\n\nCould the issue be with the firmare being upgraded to Marlin? The cube was sliced by Cura and I have used the same file for all of the prints. When I stop the print and ask Repetier to move the steppers the distance is as they should be for a 100mm travel.\n\",Gekko09,\"There could be a number of issues causing this.\n\nSince you just set it up here is a list of questions for you to go through:\n\n\nAre your belts tightened? (With an additional belt tightener)\nAre your carriages are sliding smoothly?\n\n\nBoth might cause some irregular movements explaining the results being off.\n\nHaving said that, I wouldn't worry too much if you're <0.5 mm off. This is still a cheap DIY printer (I have the same one, by the way).\n\nThis video actually goes into some details why you shouldn't worry so much about 100% accuracy and what you should actually care for when tuning your printer: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8\n\nAlso Not sure how you measured the cube but callipers are often also not that reliable.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5380,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Plodmore,1.726248027126092,4.045218499508677,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Cooling time query ABS,\"I printed Thingiverse \"\"Benchy\"\" at the default Anet settings for ABS, hot end and bed, as a first test. The result was fair but needs a bit of tweeking. The model was removed from the \"\"hot bed\"\" and set aside to cool (room temp 23degC). However when I took the model to work next day (to show off obviously) the poor wee soul looked more like the wreck of the Hesparus with cracking across many of the layers. Any thoughts? Splitting was on the side closest to the fan.\n\",mac,\"As you may already know, ABS is one of the trickiest materials to print with, partly because of its high thermal coefficient, which in turns leads with warping and cracks when not dealt with properly.\n\nThe keys to successfully deal with this aspect of ABS are two: cooling it slowly and cooling it uniformly. Typically you achieve this by using an enclosure.\n\nEnclosures can range in quality and price dramatically: there are professional grade ones that are fire and sound proof, maintain a negative pressure, filter the exhaust air and cost a few thousands euros... or you could get away with something as simple as using a cardboard box. Probably, one of the most common solutions is to use an IKEA lack table and some acrylic or wooden panes as it provides a durable, effective solution at a very low cost.\n\nAnyway: the reason why an enclosure works is because it traps the air that has been heated by your heating bed, thus \"\"immersing\"\" the full print (not just the bottom layer) in it. In turn, this means that:\n\n\nThe difference between the extruded temperature and the final one is less.\nThe gradient of temperatures across the height of the printer volume is also less.\nThe print is shielded by random air drafts, like the one you would generate by approaching the printer to check it\nWhen you stop applying heat (print is over, heating bed off) the print will cool very gently.\n\n\nNow, about that fan... Using a fan actually increases the speed at which your part cools, so - intuitively - one may believe a fan is a bad idea with ABS. However a fan is essential if your print has any type of non-trivial overhangs, and - in general - prints done using a fan (in any material) have better details. Again, with an enclosure, using a fan is seldom a problem as your fan will cool the ABS rapidly but only down to the temperature of the air in the enclosure (most commonly somewhere between 50°C and 80°C).\n\nIf your print is very small (like a benchy) and you don't want to try with an enclosure, you could still try to improve your situation by:\n\n\nsimply reducing the speed of the fan (so to only \"\"partially cool\"\" the part)\nusing a fan duct that distributes the air jet more heavenly around the extruded filament. Typically these are 3D printable parts that you find in forums and groups of a given printer model users. Here's a semi-circular one for the Anet A8, for example.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5402,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Plodmore,2.1782824847157594,3.3621123551116554,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Anet A8 Hot End Spares Quey,\"I saw an extruder mod on Amazon \"\"EAONE 2 Pcs PTFE Teflon Tube (2 Meters) with 4 Pcs PC4-M6 Fittings for 3D Printer 1.75mm Filament (2.0mm ID/4.0mm OD)\"\"\nAnybody know how this is fitted? Is it simply tapping the feed hole on the top?\n\",mac,\"Is this what you are referring to?\n\nIf yes, the cold end of the extruder is nomally already tapped and you simply have to screw the new fitting in it. The PTFE tube itself needs just to be fed through the hole in the fitting until it cannot go any further.\n\nFailing to do so will most likely result in a clog and/or leaking.\n\nIt is a self-locking mechanism, in order to release the tube you have to press down the plastic flange on top of the fitting while pulling up the PTFE tube.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n5402,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Plodmore,2.1782824847157594,3.3621123551116554,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Anet A8 Hot End Spares Quey,\"I saw an extruder mod on Amazon \"\"EAONE 2 Pcs PTFE Teflon Tube (2 Meters) with 4 Pcs PC4-M6 Fittings for 3D Printer 1.75mm Filament (2.0mm ID/4.0mm OD)\"\"\nAnybody know how this is fitted? Is it simply tapping the feed hole on the top?\n\",mer2329,\"that item is for a bowden setup. (the a8 does not come with a bowden setup, but can be modded to have one.)\nwhen installing the bowden setup on a a8, the first thing you will need to do is move the motor to somewhere else, there are tons of choices on thingiverse.\nthen the PC4-M6 fitting will screw into the black aluminum piece that the throat used to screw into. \nand the other end will go into a customised hot end. again tons of choices\n\nnow this is oversimplified, because installing a bowden extruder on a anet a8 is a lot more complicated than explained above due to the sheer number of options.\njust search anet a8 bowden and you will have lots of choices.\n\nbut it works as mac said, the PTFE tube slides into self locking fittings, the PC4-M6.\nto release simply push the top of the fitting down and pull out the tube.\n\nsource, my own anet a8 modded to have a bowden setup.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5413,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Plodmore,2.528907649931287,5.4034617870290615,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,1.878685800062712,Anet A8 hard to insert filament,\"I had been printing with ABS and took the advice to alter the fan so I can see the filament when I am loading it into the cold end. It was tricky but doable. I am now trying with PLA and getting it to line up with the whole is a nightmare. Can the driving cog and guide wheel be moved? A couple of mm would stop the driving cog pushing the filament off line.\n\",Ljk2000,\"I was having the same issue as you and know what you are talking about and there is a file that you should print that will help you (I have printed this).\n\nWhile the file says for the Anet A6, I think the extrude are the same on the Anet A8. It goes under the gear and bearing and guides the filament to the hole. Should work well for you.\n\nOther things that you can do is straighten out the filament. That is what I do, it helps that much more. You can also cut the end at a angle to sharpen the end with a pencil sharpener, also helps find the hole. \n\nSo try the file, I think it will help you would. \n\nFile --> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2242903 \n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n5413,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Plodmore,2.528907649931287,5.4034617870290615,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,1.878685800062712,Anet A8 hard to insert filament,\"I had been printing with ABS and took the advice to alter the fan so I can see the filament when I am loading it into the cold end. It was tricky but doable. I am now trying with PLA and getting it to line up with the whole is a nightmare. Can the driving cog and guide wheel be moved? A couple of mm would stop the driving cog pushing the filament off line.\n\",0scar,\"A lot of people complain on the filament insertion of the Anet A8. Personally, I have no problems at all. I cut the filament under a sharp angle and pre-bend the filament (not completely straight) and push it in the hole, it works every time without having to disassemble the extruder fan. Note that if you have the throat screwed in too much that it sticks out of the aluminum throat holder of the extruder (so not the part where the brass nozzle screws in) it is way more difficult to insert. I kept the top of the throat more or less flush with the block.\n\nOther techniques to insert filament include:\n\n\ncutting the old filament (straight cut) and let the extruder feed while you press the new filament on top of the old filament stump, if done correctly the friction will feed the new filament right after the old,\nprint filament guides for inside the extruder gear cavity,\nremovable or magnetic fan brackets.\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n5419,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Plodmore,2.8153892694839717,2.5245875148292196,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Extra data appended to the Y values when issuing `M92` & `M500`,\"I am still trying to dial in my Anet A8.\n\nThe Marlin firmware takes too long to scroll through the axis settings when I change them, so I use Repetier Host instead issuing M92 followed by M500.\n\nI noticed in the log window that X goes in as typed but that Y has a *75 after the value i input. Can anybody tell me why/what it is for? I suspect I know what it does just no idea why it is doing it.\n\",Math3w,\"*75 is the checksum value, (a method for verifying the integrity of the transmitted information).\n\nRepRap wiki gcode : checksum\n\nThere is probably an option to not use/disable checksum generation in repetier/slicers, however this may only be advantageous for use with code run from the sdcard as it is extra processing (and probably less relevant when not being transmitted over serial connection. )\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n5430,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Plodmore,2.1782824847157594,5.150012524891378,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.8746593652159236,1.5532602411371876,Removing pla from extruder,\"I read that the best way of removing ABS was to let the temperature at the hot end to drop to around 190deg c then a sharp pull. This worked really well. I am trying to print with PLA but no matter what temperature I drop the hot end to I get left with a length of PLA in the feeder tube. OK I can heat the hot end and poke the excess down with a wire but that is a pain. I think the technique is right but the temperature is wrong. Any help great fully appreciated.\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"In line w/ Fred.U's answer, I've been pretty comfortable with the following sequence. Assume a cold start with a filament in the feeder (and cold gunk in the hotend).\n1) bring the hotend up to 5 degreesC over your usual extrusion temp for the filament currently in place.\n2) If the filament doesn't pull out easily (possible clump at the end), push the filament down and hold it there so the end fully softens/melts. Then remove the filament.\n3) Load the new filament desired and push it down until the new material flows freely out of the nozzle. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5430,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Plodmore,2.1782824847157594,5.150012524891378,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.8746593652159236,1.5532602411371876,Removing pla from extruder,\"I read that the best way of removing ABS was to let the temperature at the hot end to drop to around 190deg c then a sharp pull. This worked really well. I am trying to print with PLA but no matter what temperature I drop the hot end to I get left with a length of PLA in the feeder tube. OK I can heat the hot end and poke the excess down with a wire but that is a pain. I think the technique is right but the temperature is wrong. Any help great fully appreciated.\n\",Plodmore,\"Looks like I had a gap between the hot end and the screwed rod. A gap filled with cool pla. A sort of washer for want of a better description. Will let you know if heating above temp is the answer \n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5479,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Plodmore,1.726248027126092,2.7548616721246675,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Cura 3 speed selection,\"I printed thingiverse minion Dave and after 2 failed attempts (1st tore of from bed, 2nd had jitter at about 50%) I slowed the print speed down. The final result was amazing. However the reported print time, 3hrs, was in reality 7hrs. The speed reduction was small and I would not have expected such a dramatic change in time. Did I miss a step somewhere? \n\",mac,\"No you didn't do anything wrong.\n\nThe problem with time estimates in slicers is that they don't know anything about the printer's firmware and physical limitations, so they estimate time based on the (whoefully wrong) assumption that the printer will do only and exactly what told to.\n\nSo, if the gcode says \"\"move 100mm at 1m/s\"\" the slicer will assume your printer will take 100ms to perform that action. In reality though, your printer will take some time to accelerate, and it may actually be unable to reach the target speed of 1m/s altoghether, taking a lot longer to perform the full action.\n\nTypically, Cura estimates are OK for makerbots, and Slic3r PE for Prusa printers, as the software is mainly developed towards those machines, but for most other printers the estimates will be sensibly off.\n\nYou may also be interested in trying to use octoprint to feed the GCODE to the printer: octoprint monitors the actual elapsed time against the gcode and try to adjust the estimate of the remaining time accordingly, also telling the operator how reliable that estimate is.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n5247,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,NomadMaker,3.267423727073639,6.005368974485485,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,2.306096197889172,What is the largest microSD card that a Monoprice Select Mini can read?,\"I have a Monoprice Select Mini v2 and it came with a 256 MB SD card. I have a bunch of 16 GB cards. I have made sure that the new SD card has a FAT32 filesystem. I copy the gcode file onto this card and when I put it in the printer, it can't find any files!\n\nAnd yes, the file is at the root level of the filesystem and it uses the proper naming convention. The file works on the old card.\n\nSince the old card still works, this isn't an emergency, but I want to have a backup and I don't have any other cards that small.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Unfortunately, the answer isn't as simple as that a specific size of SD card works and another size doesn't. The Marlin firmware wiki mentions:\n\n\n The SD- or MMC- Card must be formatted as FAT and must have a MMC interface. This is more likely with cards <= 2 GB.\n\n\nMMC is the predecessor of SD. SD cards are not necessarily fully backwards compatible with MMC. Apparently, Marlin uses some features specific to MMC, so your card should support it.\n\nThe SD card support in Marlin is based on the Arduino SD Card Library, which further mentions:\n\n\n The library supports FAT16 and FAT32 file systems on standard SD cards and SDHC cards.\n\n\nBased on this:\n\n\nCards should be formatted FAT16 or FAT32.\nCards bigger than 32 GB definitely won't work (not SD or SDHC).\nCards at most 2 GB will probably work.\nCards between 2 GB and 32 GB might work, depending on the specifics of the card.\n\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n5247,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,NomadMaker,3.267423727073639,6.005368974485485,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,2.306096197889172,What is the largest microSD card that a Monoprice Select Mini can read?,\"I have a Monoprice Select Mini v2 and it came with a 256 MB SD card. I have a bunch of 16 GB cards. I have made sure that the new SD card has a FAT32 filesystem. I copy the gcode file onto this card and when I put it in the printer, it can't find any files!\n\nAnd yes, the file is at the root level of the filesystem and it uses the proper naming convention. The file works on the old card.\n\nSince the old card still works, this isn't an emergency, but I want to have a backup and I don't have any other cards that small.\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"The maximum size is 32 GB, however using microSD has a little disadvantage:\n\n\nThe microSD adapter and Micro memory are wrong assembled and the chip are unable to be read.\n\nSolution: stick with a tape adhesive to keep Micro memory and SD adapter well aligned\nThe SD adapter can't be read on the 3D printer\n\nSolution: Add an extra tape adhesive over the SD adapter just like sticker, to make tight the assembly inside the reader.\n\n\nClean the contacts of the SD adapter, normally has the same issue like nintendo cartridge.\n\nI´m planning to get a bunch of SD cards instead microSD's, none of SD 8 GB and 16 GB are failing due wrong contact assembly. \n\",0.0,0.0\n5251,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Rakic,3.767809650974757,5.286742803594269,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.6229190288168605,Under extrusion towards the end of the print,\"I have really strange problem. Thing is that my print (first layer) started ok, not good nor perfect but ok and everything was going well but then all of a sudden, near the end of a print, quality drops drastically. I'm not really sure but I think this happened because of under extrusion. I'm not so good with English so here are pictures of finished print and some more details.\n\n\n\n\n\nI'm using custom build Delta printer with RepRap and Repetier firmware, CURA for slicing and Repetier-host for printing.\n\nSlicing parameters in CURA are:\n- ABS 250° hotend and 70° heatbed\n- Layer height 0.2 (initial layer 0.18)\n- Printing speed 50mm/s (30mm/s outer walls)\n- Infill 40%\n- Extrusion multiplayer 0.96 (96%) \n\nDo anyone have any ideas? What this can be? How can I fix this? \n\nThank you! \n\",Nir,\"You can try to reduce your retractions (try setting it to half what it is now and try again)\n\nIf your retraction is too big you can pull hot plastic into the cold area of the hotend and create a partial clog - this happened to me yesterday when I tried to intentionally print with way too much retraction to make demonstration photos for the retraction test model I uploaded to thingiverse.\n\nnote/disclaimer: that model I talked about above is here, I'm the author of that model\n\",0.0,0.0\n5251,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Rakic,3.767809650974757,5.286742803594269,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.6229190288168605,Under extrusion towards the end of the print,\"I have really strange problem. Thing is that my print (first layer) started ok, not good nor perfect but ok and everything was going well but then all of a sudden, near the end of a print, quality drops drastically. I'm not really sure but I think this happened because of under extrusion. I'm not so good with English so here are pictures of finished print and some more details.\n\n\n\n\n\nI'm using custom build Delta printer with RepRap and Repetier firmware, CURA for slicing and Repetier-host for printing.\n\nSlicing parameters in CURA are:\n- ABS 250° hotend and 70° heatbed\n- Layer height 0.2 (initial layer 0.18)\n- Printing speed 50mm/s (30mm/s outer walls)\n- Infill 40%\n- Extrusion multiplayer 0.96 (96%) \n\nDo anyone have any ideas? What this can be? How can I fix this? \n\nThank you! \n\",mac,\"\n Do anyone have any ideas? What this can be? How can I fix this?\n\n\nAt least judging from the pictures, that does seem like under-extrusion. Some ideas for further investigating the issue.\n\nThe problem may be due to the gcode being wrong. In this case, your printer is merely executing correctly... the wrong commands. To check if this is the case:\n\n\nThe easiest, but inconclusive way, would be to re-slice a model that fails consistently, with a different slicer. If the second print came out good, than you would know that the problem is with the slicer. This method is inconclusive because you wouldn't not if the gcode is bad or if it simply happens that your printer cannot print well that specific sequence of commands (which may still be emitted by the other slicer under different conditions).\nThe more conclusive analysis would be to look at the gcode of a failed print where the fail happens between two geometrical identical layers. This seem to be the case for the print in the picture, btw. You should then compare the gcode of the layer that printed good with that of the layer that printed poorly. If the gcode differs... then you positively know the slicer doesn't work as it should.\n\n\nThe problem may be due to a mechanical fault with the printer. Here the only idea I have to offer is overheating of the steppers and/or their controllers. This may in turn make the extruder servo skip some steps and therefore extrude less filament. If you perform the conclusive test above, you will know if this is the case.\n\nThe problem may be due to a firmware bug. This is difficult to investigate, my only suggestion would be: upgrade to the latest and greatest, if you haven't done it already.\n\nThe problem may be filament-related. This could be a number of things, but since the problem seems to happen at towards the end of the print, and your are printing at relatively high temp, an idea could be that too much heat reaches the cold end of the extruder, interfering with its extrusion. The easiest test here would simply be to re-print a failed print with a different filament. In your case I would suggest some PLA, just to decrease the temperature and change the chemical composition too.\n\nThese are more or less all shots in the dark, but - together with asking here - it would be what I would do to debug, had I the same problem. Keep up posted! :)\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5262,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,deshawnjones05,2.1782824847157594,3.486049983626924,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Printer going wild mid print,\"Mid way through prints the print head will crash into the print, then crash into the bed, raise up about 3 inches, and start swinging back and forth over one part of the bed.\n\nI have had successful prints with the same firmware, but this just started happening and I cannot wrap my head around why. The part of the bed it swings back and forth over is the same on every print. It also do not occur at any particular time, on some prints it will happen after the first few layers, on other it will happen mid way. \n\nMy printer is an anycubic kossel delta running marlin. I have tried re uploading marlin and switching slicer software. I have used mattercontrol, cura and ultimaker cura.\n\nThank you!\n\",deshawnjones05,\"For anyone having the same issue I found out it was due to a Z axis motor lock up because the pulley attached to it would get stuck under the bed. I found out because I tried to print again and it locked up completely and I had to pull it out with pliers. Just finished an 18 hour print to confirm\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n5263,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,netblognet,2.1782824847157594,3.8756049100976995,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,How to modify 3D model of body?,\"I'm relatively new in the field of 3D printing and design. By now I've created and printed some technical objects with TinkerCAD, but now I've a task, which I don't know how to solve.\n\nI have the following model as STL-file:\n\n\nNow I want to \"\"adjust\"\" the arms of the model, as shown in the picture. I want the arms to hang besides the body. \n\nI know that I could cut and rotate the arms and then merge them again with TinkerCAD but the outcome dosn't look good and the workflow feels wrong.\n\nSo what is the right tool/way to get this task done?\n\n*Disclaimer: I'm not Denis Almaral, but he released this model unter CC license. So I kept his name on the image to credit him, as requested via CC.\n\",Nir,\"Basically there's no good easy way to do this.\n\nAt this point you only have the mesh - a list of triangles - the 3D model you have does not contain the concept of joints or moving parts so it can't regenerate the shoulder after the rotation.\n\nThe original author may or may not have the ability to do this, depending on his workflow and software.\n\nIf all you have is the STL your only choice is to rotate the arm and then rebuild the shoulder from scratch and manually fix anything that doesn't look good\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5263,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,netblognet,2.1782824847157594,3.8756049100976995,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,How to modify 3D model of body?,\"I'm relatively new in the field of 3D printing and design. By now I've created and printed some technical objects with TinkerCAD, but now I've a task, which I don't know how to solve.\n\nI have the following model as STL-file:\n\n\nNow I want to \"\"adjust\"\" the arms of the model, as shown in the picture. I want the arms to hang besides the body. \n\nI know that I could cut and rotate the arms and then merge them again with TinkerCAD but the outcome dosn't look good and the workflow feels wrong.\n\nSo what is the right tool/way to get this task done?\n\n*Disclaimer: I'm not Denis Almaral, but he released this model unter CC license. So I kept his name on the image to credit him, as requested via CC.\n\",mac,\"The correct/good method to achieve this is called \"\"rigging\"\", but it is not an easy feat (as pointed out by others), as it requires plenty of knowledge about the software being used to edit the model, and a good understanding of the theory behind it.\n\nSkeletal animation requires the designer to set up a skeleton (also called \"\"rig\"\", hence the slang term \"\"rigging\"\") for the mesh and define the variables controlling the motion range of the joints and and the geometry and deformation of the mesh.\n\nIt's quite some job to perform, so - unless this assignment is the first in a series of assignments having to do mesh movement for this model, or you have a keen interest in the topic - I would suggest you to take a shortcut and edit the mesh directly in a \"\"one off\"\" not reusable fashion.\n\n(Rigging would conversely allow you to create a \"\"rag doll\"\" or at least a \"\"rag arm\"\" to freely and intuitively move around as you please).\n\nThe tool I would use for either task is blender. If you want to take the shortcut, maybe a less complex software like meshmixer could also do the job (I don't have direct experience with it, though, so I'm not 100% sure).\n\nThe blender foundation have a nice series of videos on the topic, called \"\"humane rigging\"\".\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n5270,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Yatalia,1.726248027126092,4.557473481130508,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,SerialException: 'WriteFile failed ([Error 22]...' Printrbot Simple Metal using Cura 15.04.6,\"Disclaimer: I have read about this elsewhere but haven't found a solution.\n\nPrinter: Printrbot Simple Metal with heated bed\n\nSlicer: Cura 15.04.6 (also tried Cura 3.1)\n\nPrinting software: Whatever Cura 15.04.6 comes with when printing from USB\n\nThe print goes well for the first couple layers then just stops. It stays heated, fan keeps blowing, but print has failed. Here is the error:\n\n...\nSend: N19517G1 X47.047 Y59.035 E1574.00486*126\nRecv: ok\nSend: N19518G1 X68.604 Y74.097 E1574.44219*122\nSerial timeout while writing to serial port, trying again.\nUnexpected error while writing serial port: SerialException: 'WriteFile failed ([Error 22] The device does not recognize the command.)' @ machineCom.py:_sendCommand:565\nChanging monitoring state from 'Printing' to 'Error: SerialException: 'WriteFile failed ...'\nConnection closed, closing down monitor\n\nI have gotten this using Cura 3.1 to slice as well as Cura 15.04.6 (though the error above was using the Cura 15.04.6). I've tried using a different interface for printing, but nothing helps.\n\nAny ideas on solving this? I feel like I am missing a small but simple detail here to making it work.\n\n[Edit] Added printing info at top to make it a little more clear what I was using.\n\",mac,\"From the look of it, and given that you already two different slicers, it look like this may be a hardware issue. I have had very similar error messages with my cheap Chinese printer and this is ultimately why I ended up always printing via the SD card and stop worrying.\n\nThat said, the error is about the serial connection over your USB cable. I was about to write a list of suggestions, but I found out that your manufacturer already has a troubleshooting guide for your printer here.\n\nAdding my own suggestions to those of Printrbot, this is the final troubleshooting guide (the linked page has detailed instructions for each step but 6 and 7):\n\n\nCycle power\nUpdate your Operating System.\n[Windows users only] run a VCP (Virtual Com Port) driver wizard\nCheck physical connections and swap power and usb cables.\nUse a standard 2.0 USB input rather than USB 3.0, if applicable\nMake sure that your printer is away from any potential source of EMI (Electro-Magnetic Interference). Microwaves ovens, many types of energy-saving lamps and power bricks/adapters are known offenders.\nIf possible, reduce the serial speed of your connection (revert if this does not solve the issue, as it may effect print speed and quality).\nFlash your Printrboard\n\n\nTo clarify what these tips are all about:\n\n\nStep 1 is about making sure you don't have your computer and printer in \"\"dirty states\"\" (as in: with their serial buffer corrupted or stuck).\nStep 2-3 are about making sure you have as many known software bugs and problems patched as you can, as well as all the latest features. This is especially important if you are asking for help, as nobody is going to downgrade their own machines just to replicate a user' unique state.\nStep 4-7 are about diminishing the possibility that the signal in your cables gets disrupted and mangled along the way between the computer and the printer.\nStep 8 is like 2-3 but for your printer firmware, rather than your computer software.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5271,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mmb,2.8153892694839717,4.014880994867227,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,\"What is \"\"HDPLA\"\", and why is it so hard to find out more about it?\",\"Googling 'HDPLA' has so far availed me very little. \n\nhttp://3dinsider.com/what-is-pla/ indicates that /all/ modern PLA is 'high density' compared to 'the early days'. But a fellow at the local makerspace indicated that he was specifically using 'HDPLA', with [he claimed] markedly better properties than regular PLA in the final product.\n\nA company named Florion claims to have some secret sauce they add to their PLA, and Maker Filament touts a high temp PLA; but neither seems to use the 'HD' prefix.\n\nI haven't yet been able to track down the fellow to get any more specifics from him. There's no reel of the stuff sitting around so I can't look at its labeling for clues. He claimed to be fabbing lab fittings but I don't know the intended operating situation/requirements. \n\nIt's possible he meant something else, like HDPE, which would be quite inert and thus a good choice for lab fittings--but I'd like to think that if it was lab equipment he was making he'd get the name of the polymer right.\n\nComments, including any regarding the Florion or Maker Filament or any other 'high performance' PLAs, would be most welcome.\n\",Mick,\"I doubt that it means very much at all. Filament manufacturers are very tight-lipped about the co-polymers that they add to their base stock in order to improve handling and performance characteristics, so it is impossible to say. The only common attribute that I can see is an advertised diameter tolerance of ±0.02mm. Maybe HD stands for high-definition, rather than high-density?\n\",0.0,0.0\n5271,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mmb,2.8153892694839717,4.014880994867227,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,\"What is \"\"HDPLA\"\", and why is it so hard to find out more about it?\",\"Googling 'HDPLA' has so far availed me very little. \n\nhttp://3dinsider.com/what-is-pla/ indicates that /all/ modern PLA is 'high density' compared to 'the early days'. But a fellow at the local makerspace indicated that he was specifically using 'HDPLA', with [he claimed] markedly better properties than regular PLA in the final product.\n\nA company named Florion claims to have some secret sauce they add to their PLA, and Maker Filament touts a high temp PLA; but neither seems to use the 'HD' prefix.\n\nI haven't yet been able to track down the fellow to get any more specifics from him. There's no reel of the stuff sitting around so I can't look at its labeling for clues. He claimed to be fabbing lab fittings but I don't know the intended operating situation/requirements. \n\nIt's possible he meant something else, like HDPE, which would be quite inert and thus a good choice for lab fittings--but I'd like to think that if it was lab equipment he was making he'd get the name of the polymer right.\n\nComments, including any regarding the Florion or Maker Filament or any other 'high performance' PLAs, would be most welcome.\n\",mac,\"So, low-teck, old-style investigative work from my side.... I contacted a company selling HDPLA and they got back to me with the following reply.\n\n\n We created HDPLA as an industrial PLA with special additives. As a result, our so called HDPLA has the advantages of ABS, but prints as easy as regular PLA. HDPLA has high impact, high strength and high heat deflection temperature (hdt). You can also print at high speed (max 140mm/s inhouse tests). HDPLA has is own high strength, but is even more strong after annealing. A heated bed is not necessary (50-60˚C recommended), and you can print with HDPLA with a 3D printer with open structure.\n\n\nThis is strikingly similar to the description of what 3Dprima calls \"\"Prima SELECT PRO\"\":\n\n\n PrimaSelect™ PLA PRO ist the next generation of high performance PLA for demanding industrial applications. Designed to be able to print fast >120mm/s so you can save on production time. Very high heat resistance (95°C+) after annealing. Excellent mechanical properties combined with a matte surface finish that helps concealing the printed layers for optimum appearance.\n\n\nWhile writing this answer I also found a page that escaped my googling until now, sating an additional property of \"\"their\"\" HDPLA: food safety.\n\n\n With our HD PLA you have many more options. You can use this material in two ways. Choose the one you like best. You can use it as a normal PLA and get prints characterized by a very good adhesion between the layers and high precision. You can also make your prints acquire similar properties to that of ABS – better impact resistance and high temperature resistance. All you need is an oven. Yes, an oven! By annealing our HD PLA in an oven, in accordance with the manual, you will avoid all the inconveniences of printing with ABS, such as unpleasant odour or hazardous fumes. But these are not all the advantages of HD PLA. For the production of this material we have chosen raw materials that are approved for food contact in compliance with the EU directive and FDA regulations. HD PLA is also certified by RoHS.\n\n\nSo, it looks like HDPLA is not the shorthand of a polymer molecule, but rather a trade word indicating that the base PLA has been mixed with additives. Furthermore, the answer I got via mail seems to indicate that \"\"HD\"\" refers to the high Heat Deflection temperature of the filament (the heat deflection temperature is the temperature at which a polymer or plastic sample deforms under a specified load).\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5280,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Benjamin Samuel Goldschmidt,3.267423727073639,5.064821050409503,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How can I get PLA or PETG to stick to a glass bed permanently without adhesives?,\"3D printing gurus,\n\nI've read on several forums that people have had issues with printing with PETG or even PLA on glass and it sticks so well to the glass that chunks of glass rip off due to thermal stresses from the glass/plastic bond thermally contracting at different amounts. \n\nI'm looking for a way to actually increase the adhesion to that point (or beyond) so that I could get a watertight seal on a plastic to glass interface. A lot of the forums mention that these problems occur when the extruder head is too close to the glass build plate and thus \"\"bonds\"\" the plastic to the glass somehow. Is this the case or are there other methods (with just the filament and the glass) that could make this happen?\n\",mac,\"There are seven factors that I can think of, that contribute to the adhesion of the first layer onto bare glass:\n\n\nglass cleanliness: dish soap and hot water, dried by patting down with quality kitchen paper is what seems to work best for me. Beware of fingerprints.\nglass roughness: a common way to increase adhesion to glass is to rough-up its surface by scratching with some fine sandpaper. This works best if you take care of sanding in multiple directions (so that you have grooves crossing each other). I suppose an experiment you could try is printing on frosted glass (the side that has been sandblasted or etched of course).\ntuning of the bed: your bed should be super-flat and perfectly leveled. Use an indicator gauge if you can.\nfilament chemistry: that is not only to say that certain plastics, like PLA, stick better than others, but also to say that certain brands work better than others (as the additives each manufacturer adds to the plastic influence how the strength of the interface with glass).\nprinter settings: typically a slow speed, no active cooling and a bit of overextrusion work best.\narea of the interface: the larger the area of the interface, the better. But also: for large uninterrupted interfaces, problems with curling begin to appear. \ntemperature: each filament has it's own sweet spot, but typically some heat make prints stick better. However this is true until the print is in progress, once the print is done and the printing bed cools, prints tend to separate by themselves, so in your case you may want to print with a cold bed (which is totally feasible with PLA).\n\n\nAll that said, this would not be a complete answer without a strong warning: any functional part which integrity depends on this kind of adhesion is bound to catastrophically fail very quickly, if working at all.\n\nFor one this \"\"assembly\"\" would be extremely susceptible to change in temperature. While I read too of broken glass due to too good bonding, I only recall this having happened to people using some sort of substance on the glass. Usually the differential in shrinkage is exactly what makes the print come off the glass (a common tip for stuck prints is to put them in a freezer).\n\nSecondly, as soon as some air (or other fluid) will begin seeping between glass and plastic, it will take very little for it to separate the two completely. It's a bit like using a crowbar: as soon as there is a crack you can stick the tip in and use for leverage, it is very easy to pry things open.\n\nFinally, be aware that managing to print watertight shapes with FDM printers is relatively difficult. You can help your luck by extruding at slightly higher temperature than required.\n\nIt's difficult to advise on alternatives solutions without knowing what you are trying to achieve, but I would be very surprised if there was not a better alternative. :)\n\nEDIT: the \"\"nozzle too close to the bed\"\" is the wrong way to achieve what you factually achieve with setting the flow rate so as to overextrude during the first layer: you want to increase the pressure of the molten plastic beyond what you normally would do so as to really \"\"squish\"\" it on the glass.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5284,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Xander1111,2.1782824847157594,3.5837050697726562,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,3d Print pops off before complete,\"I recently got my first 3D printer, however when I print taller objects, sometimes the piece pops off the build plate and moves around before the print is finished, the piece then is missing the top few layers and is burnt from the nozzle, Just wondering why this happens and how to fix it...\n\nHere are some pictures:\n\n\n\n\",mac,\"The issue you are having is with bed adhesion. Basically your print is not sticking well enough to the printer bed for it to resist the mechanical forces the part is being subject to during print.\n\nThis the most common issue in FDM 3D printing and you can find a lot of material online on how to mitigate the problem. Just as a \"\"teaser\"\":\n\n\nYou need to ensure your printing bed is dead flat and at the right distance from your nozzle. Search online for: \"\"3D printer bed leveling\"\": the procedure is normally the same for most printers, but if your model is a common one, chances are you will find a video/how-to/blog post for it.\nYou should use print settings that facilitate bonding of the plastic to the bed (typically: slow speed, no cooling fan, a bit of overextrusion...)\nYou can tell the slicer to add a brim or a raft to your part, to increase the amount of material holding down the print.\nYou have the option to cover your printing bed with some material that increases the bonding of the plastic (this is type-of-plastic specific but typically: PVA glue or painter's tape work well for PLA, and kapton tape or ABS sludge for ABS).\nIf you have a heated bed, use it (each filament brand has their own recommendations, but typically 50-60°C works well for PLA).\n\n\nAs for why your problem is happening towards the end of the print, there are a series of factors contributing to it:\n\n\nThe tallest the print, the more mechanical advantage (leverage) the nozzle has over the adhesion surface.\nIt looks like your top layers are progressively small, so they print very fast and this in turn the does not allow for the plastic to completely cool down before going to the following layer, so when the nozzle prints on top of it the still-warm layer is \"\"pulled up\"\" by the action of the nozzle, creates a blob that sticks to the nozzle and that only makes situation worse. Snowball effect. Most slicers have an option \"\"minimum layer time\"\" that delays the print of a layer until X seconds have passed from the start of the previous one.\nIt may be possible that the Z axis is inaccurate and the nozzle catches on a previous layer. Most printer have some kind of accuracy issue with the Z axis the furthest up the head is, especially if the Z-axis has only one threaded rod (as for example in the Creality CR-10). Another source of inaccuracy (see comments below) could be the movement multiplier for the Z being slightly off, causing the nozzle to dig into the print if there's overextrusion and enough cumulative error. Z axis inaccuracies are however unlikely to be the primary source of troubles for you, but it's a \"\"nice to know\"\" thing to know about 3D FDM printers, nevertheless.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5285,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pak,2.1782824847157594,4.207875721687259,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.104288080884247,\"Increasing rigidity of curved, long, thin parts\",\"I'm attempting to model and print a globe. The semi-circular arm that holds the globe has an outer diameter of 98mm and inner diameter of 92mm, so the arm is fairly thin. The arm has a small hole on either end that fits around a protrusion at each pole of the globe to hold it in place. The hole extends into the arm only a few millimeters, so it doesn't go all the way through.\n\nI printed the arm in ABS and it ended up being a bit too flexible to hold the globe securely. Obviously I could do things like making the arm thicker or extending the globe's protrusions all the way through the arm, but I'd prefer not to if I don't have to (you know, artistic integrity or whatever).\n\nWould printing in PLA result in a more rigid part? I've tried to do some googling on this, but couldn't really find a definitive answer. Most comparisons focus on strength which I assume doesn't necessarily correlate to flexibility.\n\nI'd also welcome any other suggestions for making the part more rigid.\n\",mac,\"The flexibility of 3d plastics has a lot to do with the additives manufacturers use. The same base material with additive X may have very different properties than the one with additive Y.\n\nThat said, generally speaking PLA is known to be more rigid (and brittle) than ABS, but less strong. So: you have a fair chance at giving it a go with PLA, albeit you my end up with a more delicate object in the end.\n\nThere is a well known youtube channel, whose author has performed a lot of quasi-scientific testing on common brands of filament (PLA and not) where you can get an idea of the relative rigidity of the filaments. You can find the table with the results here (look for the \"\"bend test\"\" columns).\n\nHowever the very firs thing that came to mind when reading your post, is that you could simply swap pins and holes by putting the holding pins on the arm, and the holes on the globe instead. This would allow you to preserve your design and to have longer pins.\n\nThings you could try when it comes to printing (unless you are already doing them):\n\n\nPrint the arm flat so that the layers stretch from pole to pole uninterrupted.\nPrint with near solid infill (solid infill can be problematic if your extrusion calibration is not perfect), like 95% and cubic infill (for more uniform properties along the full length of the axis.\n\n\nFinally, you could try to anneal the arm in your kitchen oven. This process works by warming the part until it becomes pliable and then letting it cool very slowly. The end result is that the molecules arrange themselves in a more \"\"crystal-like\"\" way and the part becomes stronger and more rigid. Beware that annealing changes your part dimensions so you should definitively do some experiments with a test cube and find out the direction and percentage of the shrinking before going \"\"all out\"\" on the arm.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n5285,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pak,2.1782824847157594,4.207875721687259,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.104288080884247,\"Increasing rigidity of curved, long, thin parts\",\"I'm attempting to model and print a globe. The semi-circular arm that holds the globe has an outer diameter of 98mm and inner diameter of 92mm, so the arm is fairly thin. The arm has a small hole on either end that fits around a protrusion at each pole of the globe to hold it in place. The hole extends into the arm only a few millimeters, so it doesn't go all the way through.\n\nI printed the arm in ABS and it ended up being a bit too flexible to hold the globe securely. Obviously I could do things like making the arm thicker or extending the globe's protrusions all the way through the arm, but I'd prefer not to if I don't have to (you know, artistic integrity or whatever).\n\nWould printing in PLA result in a more rigid part? I've tried to do some googling on this, but couldn't really find a definitive answer. Most comparisons focus on strength which I assume doesn't necessarily correlate to flexibility.\n\nI'd also welcome any other suggestions for making the part more rigid.\n\",Antony Penn,\"Print thinner layers. Also, you did not mention the other dimension of your arm. If you view the globe with the arm to the left, then you have said the thickness in the X direction (left to right) is 6mm. But what about in the Z axis (away from you)? You could make it thicker in that direction to improve its rigidity.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10397,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pak,1.0891412423578797,2.8977288498929825,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Rectangular pattern constraint is lost when applying a fillet to the sketch object,\"I'm working on a model in Fusion 360 that has part of the 2d sketch duplicated with the \"\"Rectangular Pattern\"\" tool. If I try resizing the original object, the duplicates update as expected. If, however, I try applying a fillet to the object, the pattern constraint is immediately lost and the duplicates don't update. I'm not seeing any error/warning, but I'm assuming it's running into a similar issue as if you were to delete a line that was part of the duplicated pattern (doing that shows a warning \"\"Deleted geometry is part of a pattern, suppressed the instance or dissolved the pattern.\"\")\n\nIs there a way to alter the object (specifically apply a fillet) and have the duplicates automatically update? I've done a bit of searching around and I found some suggestions saying that patterns should generally be done on the 3d model instead of the 2d sketch, but in my case I'd like to keep this in the 2d world since there are other sketch pieces that are based on the duplicated portion.\n\nHere is a simplified version of the problem I'm running into:\n\n\nStart with a simple rectangle\n\n\n\n\n\nUsing the \"\"Rectangular Pattern\"\" tool in the sketch menu, select the rectangle and create a pattern\n\n\n \n\n\nUsing the \"\"Fillet\"\" tool in the sketch menu, click on a corner of the original rectangle. Notice that the \"\"Rectangular Pattern Constraint\"\" icon is no long below the original rectangle.\n\n\n\n\n\nFinish applying the fillet. Notice that none of the duplicate rectangles have been updated.\n\n\n\n\",cmm,\"In some CAD packages, this is exactly what I would expect. Models are constructed by applying operations in a specific order. The fillet is a separate operation, and is not part of the base rectangle.\n\nThe base rectangle is defined.\nYou pattern the base rectangle.\nYou define a fillet using the base rectangle as the reference. The fillet affects only that one rectangle.\n\nOTOH, when you modify the base rectangle all are changed because the base rectangle is defined before the patterning operation.\n\nIf you can apply the fillet before the patterning, it may work as you wish.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5288,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,pookie,1.726248027126092,3.8538768031280664,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Ultimaker Original+: print has lumps and small gaps are being filled,\"Brand new to 3D printing and have an Ultimaker Original + using PLA (2.85mm).\nThe nozzle/extruder temperature is 200C and the bed/plate is 60C.\n\nI installed the Cura software on my Windows 10 box. I then head on over to tinkercad.com to make a model of a comb. I then exported my .STL file and loaded it up in Cura. I hit the print button. I waited a bit, but noticed that my print was getting lumps in it. Not crazy drastic lumps, but because the object was small, gaps (between the comb teeth) were being filled... not all of them, just some. \n\nI tried adjusting the flow rate from 100% to 90% and it seemed a little better (not perfect, still filling gaps), but when I dropped it lower, it got worse.\n\nI also tried to lower the print speed from the default of 60mm/s to 50mm/s - no change. (travel speed at 120mm/s)\n\nI tried to adjust the bed height multiple times, trying to make sure that it was 100% flat at 180 degrees.\n\nWhat is wrong here? Is the printer over extruding? Is the temperature too high? Is the flow rate wrong? Am I missing something else?\n\nCheck out my prints:\n\n\n\n\n\nI also tried printing something else:\n\n\n\nAny help would be really appreciated.\n\nUpdate\n\nOkay, so thanks to macs answer, I took another look at the nozzle and noticed a massive leak - I actually dismissed this earlier as \"\"glue\"\" - OMG.\n\nAnyways, here is the picture of the leakage:\n\n\n\nIt's very bad. It leaks down and runs over the nozzle. The nozzle also leaks... Is that normal? All I did was turn the printer on, heat up the nozzle to 200C and it started to leak. I suspect that it should not do this... I'm not ready to change the nozzle just yet - I've no idea which one to buy or even where to buy it from (I'm in the UK), so I'd like to get this one working (if possible).\n\nOn another note, I have checked the filament settings - All good. Heat settings all good too:\n\n\n\",mac,\"\n What is wrong here? Is the printer over extruding? Is the temperature too high? Is the flow rate wrong? Am I missing something else?\n\n\nIt is always difficult to diagnose problems from a set of pictures only, and without the original model to compare it with, but yes, from the pictures it looks like your printer has a severe case of over extrusion, possibly in conjunction with a thermal problem.\n\nThe first picture in the set is particularly interesting for a number of reasons:\n\n\nThe chequered pattern of the top layer looks like being generated by the nozzle \"\"digging\"\" in the layers below and rising the plastic around it. A well calibrater printer should have a top surface with a very subtle texture instead.\n\n\n\n\n\nThe teeth of the comb and the gap between them are inconsistent, as are the shape of the tip of the teeth. This let me think your printer actually doesn't operate consistently, over-extruding in some places a lot more than in others. A pinter should be able to accurately replicate its performance along the full length of the comb instead.\n\n\n\n\n\nThe plastic has a different finish and colour in different places. Namely, it looks burnt and glossy where the worse print quality is, white and matte where the problems are not so bad. Both the colour and the finish let me thing the plastic in the dark spots have been heated way over its operational range and/or for too long.\n\n\nIn essence what I think it is happening (mind it: this is just a theory) is that your printer is over-extruding and in addition your hot end may have issues with keeping its own temperature constant and within the designed limit. Other factors that may also play a role could be:\n\n\nWrong settings in the slicer as for example a nozzle diameter set to 0.5 mm when it really is 0.4 mm instead, or the filament diameter being wrong.\nBlobs of over-extruded material forming and sticking to the nozzle, where they take too much heat for too long and burn before \"\"falling\"\" in the print and damaging it.\nFilament that is old/of bad quality and that has impurities in it, or has an inconsistent diameter along its length (thus causing over-extrusion in places, but not in other).\nA nozzle that is not well fixed to the heating block, thus allowing molten plastic to seep out from the joint and run down on the outside of the nozzle and ultimately on the print itself.\nA nozzle that got damaged and whose opening is not circular and/or not matching its nominal diameter.\nThe extruder hobbed gear not e\"\"biting\"\" in the filament and thus the filament slipping at times, thus being inconsistent in the quality of material being extruded.\n\n\nSo, here's the the trouble-shooting I would go through at this stage:\n\n\nCheck your printer setting in the slicer. Doh! :)\nTake a close look at how the print works while in operation. Do you see blobs forming and sticking to the nozzle? Plastic seeping out from places it shouldn't? Is the nozzle round and true? In case of doubts, just change the nozzle with a new one (it is a less-than-1€ part anyways), easily outspent by the cost of filament in a failed print.\nCalibrate you extrusion (and thus your flow-rate) by performing accurate measurements over at least 3 length of filament. Matterhackers has a nice how-to that you can follow for this.\nManually check the diameter of your filament (at least 5 measurements at at lest 200 mm distance between them) and adjust the corresponding \"\"filament diameter\"\" setting.\nCalibrate your temperature by using a test tower. This one has extensive instructions on how to use it in the thing description, plus is customizable directly from thingiverse.\nPrint again your model and see how/if your changes affected the print quality in any way.\n\n\nIf the above fails, you could also try to use another slicer, but it's unlikely the problem is with the software.\n\nUPDATE\n\nI'm not familiar with your printer model, but the updated pictures seems to show the leakage happening between the heat block and the heat break, rather than between nozzle and \"\"whatever\"\". ;)\n\nThis can actually be caused by two different problems (or the two of them compounding).\n\n\nThe two parts, which are normally just screwed together have come loose.\nIf your extruder is not \"\"all metal\"\" (which is normally not the case in most printer), the PTFE tube (the whitish plastic tube the filament slides into) may have dislodged upwards, so instead of being a tight fit in the heat block, it leaves room for the molten filament to seep upwards.\n\n\nIn both cases, a reassembly and thorough clean-up of the head is in order. I would suggest trying to find specific documentation for your printer online, but the general process is:\n\n\nwarm up the head to printing temperature. All subsequent steps will have to be done at this temperature (wearing protective gloves is highly recommended)\nremove the filament\nremove the PTFE tube\nremove the nozzle\nremove the the heating block from the heat break\nwipe as much the plastic as possible (bit drills work well for the hole in the heat block\nincrease the temp a further 20-30 degrees\nreassemble everything\nprofit\n\n\nPlease note:\n\n\nthe heat break is relatively fragile: be gentle when unscrewing. When removing/attaching the nozzle is worth keeping the heat block in place with a spanner to prevent twisting the heat break\nif you can't remove the plastic when molted, you can try letting it cool and scrape it\nit essential that the re-assembly be done while hot. Metal expands with heat, so what feels firm while cold will eventually become loose at high temperature\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5292,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,aleung,3.267423727073639,3.6659291796757207,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Delta printer misalignment at first few layers,\"At first few layers, each layer has offset to -X/-Y direction base on previous layer. But above ~2mm, it is vertical.\n\nI've checked the printer build that there is no noticeable error in towers. Tried both manual calibration and Marlin auto calibration G33 with z probe.\n\nNo idea what's the cause and don't know which part I need to check with.\n\n\n\",aleung,\"Finally I found out that it was caused by not enough torque output by B tower stepper motor. Increasing current didn't work. I replaced the stepper motor and it prints perfectly.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5296,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user9679,1.726248027126092,2.6202374972039784,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Pronterface window question,\"I switched to a Raspberry Pi 3 to use with (Linux) Pronterface for my 3D printer. \n\nThis Pi 3 has a 3.5\"\" 320x480 LCD display. When Pronterface is loaded, only part of its window can be seen and some of the UI elements are unreachable. I have the Pronterface source code from GitHub. \n\nWhere do I start to shrink the app window?\n\",Braiden Xu,\"You can change your Pi's resolution using raspi-config or the Raspberry Pi Configuration app. \n\nTo use raspi-config, access Terminal and run raspi-config. Then navigate to Advanced Options > Resolution. \n\nIf you'd rather use the GUI, open the Raspberry Pi Configuration app and select Resolution from the resultant dialog. This may help with the rendering issues.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5297,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,djb,1.726248027126092,3.889716294241372,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,TinkerCAD Align to Odd Shaped Object,\"I have an odd-shaped object (I'll call it \"\"A\"\") that I have imported into a TinkerCAD drawing. Its dimensions do not align to any specific size, and therefore I can't really use the grid lock to help.\n\nHowever, I need to get some other objects (called \"\"B+\"\") a specific and precise distance from the outside edge of \"\"A\"\". I was trying to get the ruler to lock to the edge of \"\"A\"\", but I can only get close.\n\nIs there a way to do this so that I can get \"\"B\"\" perfectly positioned from the edge of \"\"A\"\"?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Consider to construct an object of any suitable shape that will properly align with the edge of \"\"A.\"\"\n\nThe attached image is certainly an odd-shaped object (from a previous test project).\n\n\n\nAdd a regular/symmetrical object such as a cube and size it appropriately for your purpose. It would not have to be a cube, although such a shape provides for convenient alignment in this case:\n\n\n\nUse the alignment tools feature in Tinkercad to align the desired edge(s). In this case, alignment is common right side, centered top to bottom.\n\n\n\nAfter clicking on the alignment button, lower right corner:\n\n\n\nGroup the two objects using the Group feature.\n\nI created a sample alignment reference in this image and placed it in contact with the group.\n\n\n\nMove the group or reference item the desired distance:\n\n\n\nSelect the group and ungroup it.\nSelect the initial alignment item and delete it.\n\n\n\nObjective completed.\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n5304,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tedder42,2.528907649931287,4.300722439400464,0.0,2.011441651225199,4.240216107868139,4.7596040015155525,24 V heated bed from -12 V and +12 V ATX power supply?,\"As long as there's a MOSFET in between, can I supply 24 V bed/extruder heat from an ATX power supply using -12 V and +12 V and ignoring the common rail?\n\nI assume so, I can't think of a reason why not, but want to check.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"No, this is not possible with most ATX power supplies. While in principle you can get a 24V supply by combining the +12V and -12V supplies, the rails are not symmetric, and the negative 12V supply is usually designed for a much lower load than the positive supply. In the example in the following picture, there are two positive 12V rails, capable of sourcing respectively 12A and 15A each, but the -12V rail is only good for sinking 0.5A. If you tried doing what you're proposing, using this supply, you'd be limited to only 0.5A from your \"\"24V\"\" supply.\n\n\n\nIt is very unlikely that you'll find an ATX power supply with a negative 12V rail capable of sinking significant current since computers don't need such large amounts of current from their negative supplies.\n\nThere are also issues with using a MOSFET as you describe. I assume that by MOSFET you are referring to a complete board with various support components, and not just a bare MOSFET by itself. Usually these boards have optocouplers and thus they will probably work correctly, but using just a MOSFET by itself this would not work, as the gate needs to be driven below GND (namely: to below -12V plus the gate threshold) to turn the MOSFET off.\n\",3.6340916038470805,2.0769199823829045\n5308,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bobby McGlone,2.528907649931287,5.166425251135673,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Z axis Stepper motors not working correctly,\"I have been searching around the internet for the last 3 days trying to figure this out. My Z axis motors for a pursa-i3 3d printer are not working correctly. I have marlin firmware and using repetier host. I send a command to move the z axis and I get it to move, however I if I send the same command again the motors will sometimes spin the other way. feel like They almost randomly choose which direction they turn.\n\nAs I said I have been trouble shooting this for a while now. What I am suspecting is the firmware feedrates and acceleration or some setting is not correct. \n\nHere is my code:\n\n//// MOVEMENT SETTINGS\n#define NUM_AXIS 4 // The axis order in all axis related arrays is X, Y, Z, E\n#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 2*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min)\n\n#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,4000,590} \n#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 3, 45} // (mm/sec)\n#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {1000,1000,50,500} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for Skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.\n\n#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 1000 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves\n#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 1000 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for retracts\n\n#define DEFAULT_XYJERK 10 // (mm/sec)\n#define DEFAULT_ZJERK 0.3 // (mm/sec)\n#define DEFAULT_EJERK 5.0 // (mm/sec)\n\n\nI tried swapping the drivers around and the motors will work perfectly on another axis so I don't suspect it to be a driver issue. I have been turning the pots ontop of the drivers to make them work but can't make them to go the same direction i want them to.\n\nI've checked the wires and I almost sure they are wired up correctly. (could be wrong but have checked it over with a multimeter.)\n\nI am new to this and it's my first time building one of these would appreciate any help I can get and and maybe I have over looked something I have tested.\nJust really want the axis to move in the direction That I say it to move in.\n\n\n\nMore details about my setup is: A Robocraze 3D Printer Controller Board RAMPS 1.4 using A4988 stepper motors drivers and my motors are the nema 17 stepper motors. I currently have the two z axis motors wired in parallel but have tried before using series, however the problem of being unable to control the direction of the Z motors still arises (can easily switch back to series). \n\ncurrently trying with no load just to get the motors turn in the correct direction when I send a G-code command. I am using Repetier host on ubuntu 14.04.5.\n\nI have also check the endstops and they are working perfectly, so they ain't a problem (I don't think :p)\n\nThank you,\nBobby\n\",Bobby McGlone,\"So after 5 days of trouble shooting, Bob-the-Kuhn over on the marlin github forum solved it for, anyone else who faces the same issue can head over to github for my solutions. \n\nhttps://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/9287#issuecomment-359428147\n\nConversation from link:\n\n\n Bob-the-Kun:\n Problem does not follow the driver. Problem does not follow the\n steppers.\n \n I'm thinking that the Z socket has a problem. Sounds like an open/poor\n contact.\n \n Try bending the DIRECTION lead on the Z driver a little and see if the\n problem disappears. It's one of the corner pins. Sometimes it's called\n DIR. If your driver's pins aren't labeled then bend all four corner\n pins a little.\n \n Another option is to move the Z function to the E1 socket. Replace\n your pins_RAMPS.h file with this one. pins_RAMPS.zip\n \n FYI - if this really is a hardware problem then it's the second RAMPS\n hardware problem within a week. Most unusual.\n \n Post reply:\n \n Yes the socket I am now assuming is just broken (not sure what exactly\n but possibly one of the connections), After using for pins_RAMPS file\n and changed the motors back to series and connected to the E1 slot I\n successful got the printer to work!!! Thank you very much Z axis is\n working as I would expect! I am now calibrating the printer as it\n definitely needs it.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5318,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Captain Caboose,2.1782824847157594,3.0563687480099424,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,What is the best way to print a model with support material in first layer?,\"I am trying to print a model that requires support material to be on the first layer, what is the best way to accomplish this? I am currently using Cura. It seems that the support material is too flaky. I have the infill for the support at around 8%\n\",Mick,\"I cannot comment on your infill percentage for supports, since I never use them. In any case, increasing the infill may well have little or no effect.\n\nHowever, you could try two things: If your slicer includes supports when generating brims, then use brims. Otherwise, use a raft.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5318,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Captain Caboose,2.1782824847157594,3.0563687480099424,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,What is the best way to print a model with support material in first layer?,\"I am trying to print a model that requires support material to be on the first layer, what is the best way to accomplish this? I am currently using Cura. It seems that the support material is too flaky. I have the infill for the support at around 8%\n\",mac,\"I had the same problem printing a miniature just recently. As always, settings are somewhat dependent from the object you want to print, but here are some suggestions:\n\n\nIncrease the support density: 15% (8% is very low!)\nSupport pattern: zig-zag with \"\"connect zig-zag\"\" option enabled (add stiffness to the \"\"column\"\" of support)\nEnable support interface (increase adhesion to the plate, and provide a more \"\"beefy\"\" base for the support material)\n\n\nFor reference, here's a screenshot of my settings as I tweaked them for that miniature (printed a 0.1mm layer height).\n\n\n\n(\"\"Support line distance 1mm\"\" is the same as \"\"Support density 15%\"\", or at least it is the same with my nozzle size)\n\nIf your problem was not only with the \"\"flakiness\"\" of the material, but also with it adhesion to the bed, then prepping your printing bed somehow (with a bit of painter tape, glue, etc... can help. Alternatively using a brim or a raft (as also suggested by another responder) could also help.\n\nEDIT: all the above still standing true, it turns out the OP had a hardware problem as well, his timing belt being loose (see comments).\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5322,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Amritash,1.726248027126092,2.9728043627528558,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,\"3d printing of which plastic out of polyurethane, e-glass, and PTFE is easiest?\",\"I am looking for a plastic which is transparent to radio waves. I want to place my transmitter in a cylinder. That cylinder would be placed in a big RC plane ( whose body is made up of cardboard). I want the plane to be both telemetry, and RC controlled. That cylinder should allow the signals, should be strong and light.\nSo which material would you suggest and is that material easy to do 3d print? \n\",CarvedBlock,\"To second @mac, \n\nFor drone usage, ABS will be your pal*. Both tough-PLA and PETG are relatively heavy, which is a disadvantage for flying saucers. Unless you power up and don't care!\n\n\nAnd I say this as someone who does not recommend ABS for general printing and I don't like printing ABS myself because of the smell, how much it warps, and most importantly the harmful nano particles it releases when printing (yes, all filaments do this, but ABS is on the very bad side of the spectrum). \n\n\nNote that tough-PLA differs manufacturer to manufacturer - basically it's not supposed to behave like PLA, so you get proprietary blends. PETG is traditionally tougher than PLA, but with the modified PLA, who knows. I have not personally met tough PLA tougher than regular PETG. \n\n\n\nSO: \n\n\nPETG if weight is not an issue. It prints well and it's tough. \nABS if weight is an issue. It's not easy to print; and make sure it's well well ventilated area (while venting during the print would mess up your print.)\nTough PLA if you only have cold bed. \n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5322,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Amritash,1.726248027126092,2.9728043627528558,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,\"3d printing of which plastic out of polyurethane, e-glass, and PTFE is easiest?\",\"I am looking for a plastic which is transparent to radio waves. I want to place my transmitter in a cylinder. That cylinder would be placed in a big RC plane ( whose body is made up of cardboard). I want the plane to be both telemetry, and RC controlled. That cylinder should allow the signals, should be strong and light.\nSo which material would you suggest and is that material easy to do 3d print? \n\",mac,\"For the kind of application you are looking for, transparency to radio signal shouldn't really be an issue, so you are more or less free to choose whatever suits your taste better.\n\nLooking at the 3d printed drone community, the 3 most common materials I see being used there are:\n\n\nimpact-resistent PLA\nPETG\nABS\n\n\nThis order also match their \"\"ease of use\"\", with PLA being very easy to print even without heated bed, behaving well with glues in the assembly and being easy to paint on. The impact resistance of \"\"though PLA\"\" still doesn't match that of - say - ABS, but is typically considered \"\"good enough\"\" for anything but the propellers.\n\nPETG is tougher. Print relatively easy (stringing and oozing being the typical problems) but it is known to be somewhat difficult to glue and paint. It is also quite dense, so - dimensions being the same - it will weight more than PLA.\n\nFinally, ABS is a classic. It is strong, durable, easy to finish (with acetone) but it is the most finicky material to print with, requiring an enclosure and proper ventilation (the fumes being toxic).\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5327,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user3486773,1.0891412423578797,3.071923460387521,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Nintendo Cartridge Print?,\"I am trying to make a device with an old NES cartridge. If I were to take an already existing cartridge, I would need to make some precision cuts into the plastic and not sure where to get advice on that.\n\nThe flip side, is if I print my own 'NES' cartridge with the cuts built into the print. \n\nSo my question is two part. One, if I were to print one on my own, what is the cheapest price point I could obtain a printer that could do enough detail to make it hard to tell the difference from the real thing.\n\nIn case you are just curious, I'm needing to cut a perfectly sized rectangle into the case for an LCD panel to fit into. Or print my own. \n\",mac,\"\n If I were to print one on my own, what is the cheapest price point I could obtain a printer that could do enough detail to make it hard to tell the difference from the real thing.\n\n\nAround 15.000 US$.\n\nFDM printers (the most common consumer-grade ones, the ones with the roll of filament beside them) all print with distinctive layer marks. Next are resin printers, but resins tend to have a very peculiar feeling to it, that is difficult to mistake for ABS or other injection-molding plastics, when you hold them, plus they typically struggle with largish objects. So you would probably be looking at a sintering printer, melting nylon powder with a laser. That is expensive to buy and very expensive to operate.\n\nNow, while the above is all technically true, it is only half the story...\n\nIn fact prints done on a cheap FDM printer can be post-processed to look almost indistinguishable from an injection molded model. That takes probably more work to accomplish than modelling the object in cad and printing it though, so it's a matter of setting your expectations correctly (don't think to your print as \"\"the product\"\" but as the \"\"base material\"\" for your finished product).\n\nI would say that you essentially have two options:\n\n\nif you are looking at picking up a new hobby, and do a lot of sanding and polishing in the process, then: \"\"welcome to the club!\"\". There are plenty of relatively cheap printers that can print acceptably well (more on this below).\nif your interest is not towards 3d printing in general but is really limited to getting project done, than you could consider having a printing service doing that for you instead (basically you send them the file with your design and choose what kind of printer and material you want them to use, and they send you back the end result). It will be cheaper and probably of a higher quality than what you could achieve yourself. Certainly it will require less time investment from your side.\n\n\nIf you go with option one, an affordable printer that got very good reviews from trustworthy reviewers is the cetus. It is 299 US$, have quality components and is very very silent. The build volume is not huge but should be more than enough for your project.\n\nHowever don't take my suggestion as \"\"this is the best you can buy for your money\"\": there are plenty of models out there that will get the job done in the price range 300-500 US$, and if you are wishing to spend a bit more, you could get an Original Prusa MKIIs (the printer that topped the charts last year) for 600US$ as a kit or slightly more fully assembled.\n\nShould you go for using a printing service instead, there are a lot of them. Two among the most well known are 3dhubs and shapeways.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5329,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Francisco Javier Valencia,1.0891412423578797,5.0474619426965965,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How to improve resolution using 0.3mm nozzle?,\"What are the best settings for a Simple Metal printer using a 0.3mm nozzle, knowing that the min layer height can be 1/4 the size of the nozzle?\n\nI posted some photos on the link below and the STL file.\n\nThank you for your advice.\n\nhttps://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/7scdug/how_to_improve_print_quality_using_a_03mm_nozzle/\n\",mac,\"\n knowing that the min layer height can be 1/4 the size of the nozzle?\n\n\nI'm not sure if that is a limitation of your printer specifically, but going \"\"down\"\" there is really no hard limitation to the layer thickness ratio that I know of or have experienced myself. At least not on modern printers using standard stepper motors and 1.75mm filament (older 3mm printers were more limited on this).\n\nGoing \"\"up\"\" you will hit a hard limit at around 3/4 of your nozzle diameter, as layers will have a hard time bonding to each other past that, and the wall surface will be very corrugated (but I take your question about \"\"best settings\"\" is about making the print better, so with thinner layers...)\n\nIf you print at reasonable (as in: not too fast) speed and have calibrated your extrusion properly, you should be able to print at any layer height your printer supports, the limiting factor normally being the mechanical precision of your printer / the gearing of your stepper motor.\n\nIn particular, you should try to print at layer heights that are multiple of the distance your printer will travel upwards for each step of your stepper motor. \n\nSimplifying a bit how stepper motors work: say that your screw raises 8mm for each revolution of the stepper motor, and your stepper does 200 steps per revolution... your printer will raise 8mm/200 = 0.04mm per step. If you print at 0.05mm, most layers will be 0.04mm, with 1 in 4 being 0.08mm to compensate for the lost 0.01mm at each layer. This will produce noticeable defects in the print.\n\nThe information on how your Z axis is geared is seldom available in the official specification sheet, but usually there is always somebody knowing it on the printer user forums.\n\nAs for \"\"best settings\"\", those depends typically from the type and brand of filament being used, as well as from the 3D model geometry. Printing slowly is always a good idea though, as it limits the \"\"noise\"\" on the print due to vibration.\n\nIn your particular example, threads (which are substantially a very long overhang) will actually benefit from a high ratio between nozzle width and layer height (so a larger nozzle or a lower layer height). This is because, the overhang angle being the same, higher ratios will give more material to extrude onto at each layer. You can visualise this by thinking to how easier is to offset a stack of books compared to offsetting a stack of dice.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5332,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Outcast Jedi,2.1782824847157594,3.5424424008133717,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Quality drop in vertical axis printing,\"Dear experts and 3D printer users;\n\nI am a beginner in 3D printing field. I read couple of answers in forums and i cannot find exact answer to my problem. \n\nPrinting quality dropped when i try to write vertical axis (i mean, columns). There is no problem in horizontal axis. \n\nMy column width must be 0.5 mm, and printer nozzle diameter is 0.4 mm. I think I should write 0.5 mm column with 0.4 mm nozzle with ease. \n\nI added messy structure to this post and you can find writing details below. \nWhat do you think? What is your suggestion to overcome this problem? \n\nPrinter:Ultimaker 3,\nSlicer:Cura,\n\nPrinting Details; \nNozzle diameter:0.4 mm,\nProfile:Fine 0.1 mm,\nLayer height:0.1 mm,\nWall thickness:1 mm,\nTop bottom thickness:1 mm,\nInfill density: 100 %,\nGradual infill steps:0,\nPrinting Temp:240 C,\nBuild plate Temp:65 C,\nDiameter: 2.85 mm,\nDimensions of the material:10X10X5 mm\n\",Mick,\"You cannot hope to print 0.5mm columns with a 0.4mm print head successfully using an FDM printer. Basically, you are asking the printer to lay down tiny blobs of filament, one of top of another. You have two options:\n\n\nUse a finer nozzle (e.g. 0.1mm). However, such nozzles are reported as being very difficult to use.\nSwitch to a different printing technology (e.g. SLA). Resin and powder-based printers have much finer resolutions, and will have no difficulty printing the model that you describe.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5332,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Outcast Jedi,2.1782824847157594,3.5424424008133717,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Quality drop in vertical axis printing,\"Dear experts and 3D printer users;\n\nI am a beginner in 3D printing field. I read couple of answers in forums and i cannot find exact answer to my problem. \n\nPrinting quality dropped when i try to write vertical axis (i mean, columns). There is no problem in horizontal axis. \n\nMy column width must be 0.5 mm, and printer nozzle diameter is 0.4 mm. I think I should write 0.5 mm column with 0.4 mm nozzle with ease. \n\nI added messy structure to this post and you can find writing details below. \nWhat do you think? What is your suggestion to overcome this problem? \n\nPrinter:Ultimaker 3,\nSlicer:Cura,\n\nPrinting Details; \nNozzle diameter:0.4 mm,\nProfile:Fine 0.1 mm,\nLayer height:0.1 mm,\nWall thickness:1 mm,\nTop bottom thickness:1 mm,\nInfill density: 100 %,\nGradual infill steps:0,\nPrinting Temp:240 C,\nBuild plate Temp:65 C,\nDiameter: 2.85 mm,\nDimensions of the material:10X10X5 mm\n\",mac,\"The main problem with your setup is the nozzle width. It is simply too big to accurately print a structure that tiny. An integral part of the filament deposition is the \"\"smearing\"\" of the molted plastic, that clearly can't happen if the structure is about the same size of the nozzle bore. Also the printed structure is too flimsy to resist the \"\"suction\"\" of such a big nozzle moving away.\n\nI would suggest to use a smaller nozzle and/or increase the size of your pillars. A good combo would be 0.2mm nozzle with 0.6mm or 0.8mm pillars. For these small details, it would be best to have a pillar size that is a perfect multiple of your nozzle diameter.\n\nOther settings that will help you:\n\n\nreduce the print dramatically (try 20 or 30 mm/s)\nuse retraction (or increase its amount/speed)\nmake sure your cooling fan is 100%\nuse a sensible \"\"minimum layer time\"\" (try 10 seconds for a start)\n\n\nThe first two settings should reduce the force/impulse applied by the nozzle on the pillar.\n\nThe latter two should make sure your pillar is \"\"solid\"\" when extruding a new layer on top of it.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5341,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Varun Kumthekar,2.1782824847157594,4.041499045332291,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Sending Gcode commands to Hyrel System 30M using python,\"I am using python 3.6 with pyserial library to connect to the Hyrel System 30M 3D Printer. I am able to read the data from the device but unable to write any commands to it\nHere is the code:\n\nser = serial.Serial()\nser.port = 'COM4'\nser.baudrate = 38400\nout = ser.readline()\nser.write(b'M106 T14 S30\\n') %This is the command to turn on the fan at 30% power\n\n\nCan somebody suggest me how to write commands to printer through python\n\",mac,\"If the one in your question is your complete code, a possibility is that your computer is just buffering the output for the serial port, withholding it in memory. Try to add\n\nser.flush()\n\n\nafter your last line. This command will... well... flush anything into the buffer through the actual connection.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5346,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,NSok,2.8153892694839717,5.049602632224,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Anet A8 extruder motor moves back and forth,\"\n\nThis is what is happening to my motor. Any suggestions would help. \n1. I have tried adjusting the trimpot. \n2. Rewire the connector to match the one on the motherboard.\n3. Anything else I found on the internet.\n\",Mick,\"Check the continuity of the wires on the cable. Sometimes, they are not crimped correctly. Another common fault is crossed wires. In either case, the easiest diagnostic test is to substitute another cable, but please note the color coding of this replacement wire to match the cable you replace.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5346,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,NSok,2.8153892694839717,5.049602632224,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Anet A8 extruder motor moves back and forth,\"\n\nThis is what is happening to my motor. Any suggestions would help. \n1. I have tried adjusting the trimpot. \n2. Rewire the connector to match the one on the motherboard.\n3. Anything else I found on the internet.\n\",user9753,\"The Anet A8 stepper motor 4 lead cable need to be correct in colour arrangement:\n\n\nmother board end: black-green-blue-red and extrauder\nstepper motor end: black-red-green-blue.\n\n\nI bought DIY RepRap Anet A8 3d printer which came with one of the red lead end not attached, so in order to complete the build I used another lead from the Kossel delta 3D printer which has a different colour arrangement from the Anet A8 and made the motor rock back and forth as in your video.\n\nIt seems each colour lead carries a specific current and there are many different 4 colour cables out there.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5377,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,bgshadowman,1.0891412423578797,2.729972460763979,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Making a plunger,\"Help, I know how to print simple cookie cutter style molds, but I need to know how to turn that open shape into a closed smaller version that can be used as a plunger. Reason being, is I make bath bombs, so it would be so much easier to get bombs out of molds if I could make a plunger. Thank you so much for any help!!\n\",fred_dot_u,\"It's important to provide information regarding the program you are using to model your molds. Even without that information, there are general methods to produce the portion you require. \n\nConsider that you already have the outer portion, what you describe reasonably well as a cookie cutter style. If you are using someone else's model cookie cutter shape, the following will still apply.\n\nMost programs have a subtractive feature. An easy program that provides this feature would be Tinkercad. Running with that program, the steps would be as follows:\n\n\nimport the current cookie cutter shape \nscale up the shape to ensure\nthat the inner portion is decreased, by increasing the wall\nthickness. It is expected that scaling up the shape will enlarge both\nthe outside wall and inside wall of the cookie cutter shape create a\nblock that will encompass the cookie cutter, circular or rectangular\nas desired. \nuse the subtractive feature to remove the cookie cutter\nshape from the block \nthis should also segment the outer portion of\nthe block, which would be removed, leaving the inside cookie shape.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5381,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ali Rabah Abdessamad,2.8153892694839717,3.6260512276357146,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,What's the best printing technique to produce splints (a device to immobilize a body part)?,\"One of the most interesting field in which the 3D Printing is being considered is the fabrication of biocompatible devices and parts for a medical applications. \nFor that I am interesting in knowing what technique are used for the fabrication of splints or cast used for the immobilization of human body part, also which material is compatible with this technique?\n\",craftxbox,\"For anything where there is an open or bandaged wound, you should NOT use 3D printing, and should use sterilized medical equipment to prevent infection and heavy metals infiltrating the bloodstream.\n\nSLA/SLS 3D printing may be the best option for replicating the complex structure of the splint you have pictured above, as FDM printers have difficulty reproducing those structures.\n\nHowever, FDM printing CAN reproduce it, and generally FDM printers have access to a wider variety of materials of which models can be printed with, so they may be the best option overall.\n\nFor something to immobilize a body part that has been broken, you may want to use a stiff material such as ABS or Carbon Fibre, However PLA may work still in these cases.\n\nAs for something to support a body part, Flexible or Semi-Flexible materials may be desired, such as Ninjaflex (TPU), Nylon.\n\nAs a disclaimer:\nI am not a medical professional, This is not medical advice, please consult a properly licenced medical professional first before using 3D printing to solve a medical ailment.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5382,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Karashevich B.,1.726248027126092,5.064821050409503,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Issues with direct g-code transmission via serial port,\"Model of the printer is unknown, got it as present, probably something generic cartesian on arduino mega and ramps boards stitched together and with marlin firmware.\n\nI've used accepted answer from here to try moving this thing from terminal.\nHow to directly send G-code to printer from a Linux terminal?\n\nMy first attempt to get access to low-level printer interface looked like that: \n\n./baud.py <> /dev/ttyACM0 250000\ntail -f /dev/ttyACM0 &\ncat > /dev/ttyACM0\n\n\nFirst it was fine: i've entered g-code, printer executed it and returned an ok message into my terminal.\n\nThen i've turned the printer off and on again and repeated the whole process, but now tail -f didn't output anything and printer LCD displayed garbage in the status line after I ran the command.\n\nI've also noticed that printer controller reboots every time the serial port is accessed, not sure if it happened in the first time when everything worked well.\n\nThe output of cat /dev/ttyACM0 after baud setting is a bit weird too - and there's garbage in the status line instead of standard \"\"%printername% ready\"\" as well:\n\nstart\necho:Marlin1.0.0\necho: Last Updated: May 20 2017 18:12:04 | Author: (none, default config)\nCompiled: May 20 2017\necho: Free Memory: 3763 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232\necho:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded\necho:Steps per unit:\necho: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z3200.00 E97.94\necho:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):\necho: M203 X50.00 Y50.00 Z2.50 E25.00\necho:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):\necho: M201 X750 Y750 Z100 E10000\necho:Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration\necho: M204 S500.00 T500.00\necho:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)\necho: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Z1.00 E5.00\necho:Home offset (mm):\necho: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00\necho:PID settings:\necho: M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00\necho:SD init fail\necho:Unknown command: \"\"starto\"\"\nok\necho:Unknown command: \"\"SD init failstartuthor\"\"\nok\necho:Unknown command: \"\" (none, default config)50.00 Z2.50 E2rBy00.00 Y0.00 Z0.00echo\"\"\nok\necho:Unknown command: \"\"Unknown command\"\"\nok\necho:Unknown command: \"\" \"\"starto\"\"own comm\"\"\nok\necho:Unknown command: \"\"aximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)echo\"\"\nok\necho:Unknown command: \"\"PID settings\"\"\nok\necho:Unknown command: \"\"okechecho\"\"\nok\n\n\nThe \"\"SD init fail\"\" line and everything after it appears when sensor data appears on the LCD, there's a delay before that during which the LCD is empty.\n\nIf you send commands to printer using something like echo \"\"G0 X10\"\" > /dev/ttyACM0, it executes them only on next serial port accessing (and therefore reboot) - or doesn't execute at all.\n\nThe interesting part is that Cura \"\"Monitor\"\" tab can actually manipulate the caret and the Cura itself can print things in general - but i want to be able to do it manually.\n\",mac,\"Mine is a wild guess, but judging from:\n\necho:Unknown command: \"\"starto\"\"\nok\necho:Unknown command: \"\"SD init failstartuthor\"\"\nok\necho:Unknown command: \"\" (none, default config)50.00 Z2.50 E2rBy00.00 Y0.00 Z0.00echo\"\"\nok\necho:Unknown command: \"\"Unknown command\"\"\nok\necho:Unknown command: \"\" \"\"starto\"\"own comm\"\"\nok\necho:Unknown command: \"\"aximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)echo\"\"\nok\necho:Unknown command: \"\"PID settings\"\"\nok\n\n\nIt looks like you may be looping back the output of your printer as an input to itself. I am very suspicious of your line: tail -f /dev/ttyACM0 & as that seems to indicate your are trying to perform other actions in the same terminal window after you started to monitor the serial connection.\n\nIf this is the case, you should definitively open the monitor in a separate terminal (tail -f /dev/ttyACM0) and feed the input in a different one (note that yo must not use the final &).\n\nFinally, you probably want to use cat >> /dev/ttyACM0 instead of cat > /dev/ttyACM0 as you want to append your commands without truncating the existing stream.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5382,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Karashevich B.,1.726248027126092,5.064821050409503,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Issues with direct g-code transmission via serial port,\"Model of the printer is unknown, got it as present, probably something generic cartesian on arduino mega and ramps boards stitched together and with marlin firmware.\n\nI've used accepted answer from here to try moving this thing from terminal.\nHow to directly send G-code to printer from a Linux terminal?\n\nMy first attempt to get access to low-level printer interface looked like that: \n\n./baud.py <> /dev/ttyACM0 250000\ntail -f /dev/ttyACM0 &\ncat > /dev/ttyACM0\n\n\nFirst it was fine: i've entered g-code, printer executed it and returned an ok message into my terminal.\n\nThen i've turned the printer off and on again and repeated the whole process, but now tail -f didn't output anything and printer LCD displayed garbage in the status line after I ran the command.\n\nI've also noticed that printer controller reboots every time the serial port is accessed, not sure if it happened in the first time when everything worked well.\n\nThe output of cat /dev/ttyACM0 after baud setting is a bit weird too - and there's garbage in the status line instead of standard \"\"%printername% ready\"\" as well:\n\nstart\necho:Marlin1.0.0\necho: Last Updated: May 20 2017 18:12:04 | Author: (none, default config)\nCompiled: May 20 2017\necho: Free Memory: 3763 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232\necho:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded\necho:Steps per unit:\necho: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z3200.00 E97.94\necho:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):\necho: M203 X50.00 Y50.00 Z2.50 E25.00\necho:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):\necho: M201 X750 Y750 Z100 E10000\necho:Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration\necho: M204 S500.00 T500.00\necho:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)\necho: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Z1.00 E5.00\necho:Home offset (mm):\necho: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00\necho:PID settings:\necho: M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00\necho:SD init fail\necho:Unknown command: \"\"starto\"\"\nok\necho:Unknown command: \"\"SD init failstartuthor\"\"\nok\necho:Unknown command: \"\" (none, default config)50.00 Z2.50 E2rBy00.00 Y0.00 Z0.00echo\"\"\nok\necho:Unknown command: \"\"Unknown command\"\"\nok\necho:Unknown command: \"\" \"\"starto\"\"own comm\"\"\nok\necho:Unknown command: \"\"aximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)echo\"\"\nok\necho:Unknown command: \"\"PID settings\"\"\nok\necho:Unknown command: \"\"okechecho\"\"\nok\n\n\nThe \"\"SD init fail\"\" line and everything after it appears when sensor data appears on the LCD, there's a delay before that during which the LCD is empty.\n\nIf you send commands to printer using something like echo \"\"G0 X10\"\" > /dev/ttyACM0, it executes them only on next serial port accessing (and therefore reboot) - or doesn't execute at all.\n\nThe interesting part is that Cura \"\"Monitor\"\" tab can actually manipulate the caret and the Cura itself can print things in general - but i want to be able to do it manually.\n\",Karashevich B.,\"That's weird but i've got some code from here: https://stackoverflow.com/questions/6947413/how-to-open-read-and-write-from-serial-port-in-c , changed it a little, removed few lines, ran it - and my port started working just fine. Here's the complete code (for Linux of course).\n\nI guess that was the c_lflag line that solved the problem.\n\n#include <asm/termios.h>\n#include <stropts.h>\n#include <unistd.h>\n#include <fcntl.h>\n#include <string.h>\n\nint set_interface_attribs (int fd) {\n struct termios2 tty;\n memset (&tty, 0, sizeof tty);\n ioctl(fd, TCGETS2, &tty);\n tty.c_cflag&=~CBAUD;\n tty.c_cflag|=BOTHER;\n tty.c_ispeed=tty.c_ospeed=250000;\n tty.c_cflag = (tty.c_cflag & ~CSIZE) | CS8;\n tty.c_iflag &= ~IGNBRK;\n tty.c_lflag = 0;\n tty.c_oflag = 0;\n tty.c_cc[VMIN] = 0;\n tty.c_cc[VTIME] = 5;\n tty.c_iflag &= ~(IXON | IXOFF | IXANY);\n tty.c_cflag |= (CLOCAL | CREAD);\n tty.c_cflag &= ~(PARENB | PARODD);\n tty.c_cflag &= ~CSTOPB;\n tty.c_cflag &= ~CRTSCTS;\n ioctl(fd, TCSETS2, &tty);\n return 0;\n}\n\nint main() {\n int fd=open(\"\"/dev/ttyACM0\"\",O_RDWR|O_NOCTTY|O_SYNC);\n set_interface_attribs(fd);\n close(fd);\n return 0;\n}\n\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n5387,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hola Soy Edu Feliz Navidad,2.528907649931287,3.8186436911337327,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Wrong temperature on extruder 2,\"Firstly, I just bought a G2S mini pro from Geeetech and it is my first 3D printer (therefore I'm 100% newbie in this area).\n\nThe first extruder seems to be ok, the temperature varies from 23°C to 201°C and if you touch it you can see that it is hot. However, for the second extruder, the temperature is shown with more than 400°C:\n\n\n\nThe cables are connected correctly and the firmware is updated. \n\nDo I have to return the printer? Or is there another solution?\n\",mac,\"If you have access to an IR thermometer, it would be interesting to verify what the actual temperature is. I doubt the hot end actually reaches that temperature, but:\n\n\nif it actually does, then it could actually be dangerous, as most extruders are designed for temperatures well below 300°C. The problem would likely be in the firmware in this case.\nif it stays cold, then probably is a problem with the temperature probe or its cables/connectors being broken. Most printers use thermistors as temperature probes, and thermistors let less and less current pass through the higher the temperature is, so: no current would be interpreted as the hot end being \"\"extremely hot\"\" and the firmware would not heat the hot end further.\nif it is hot but at another temperature than the one displayed, then it could either be a problem with the probe over-reading or a firmware bug (e.g.: the temperature is shown in Fahrenheit, or the firmware mis-process the signal from the probe).\n\n\nEither way: thermistors and cables are cheap to replace, while problems with the firmware may be fixed only if you have access to the code.\n\nIf you just bought the printer in a physical store, I would simply swap it with another unit, rather than fiddling with it, though.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5390,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hola Soy Edu Feliz Navidad,1.0891412423578797,3.235319671822568,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Extruder driver not working,\"I have a geeetech g2s pro and when I request to print something, the extruder motor doesn't move (it is connected on the board), therefore, the printer prints some kind of imaginary object. I cannot ask Repetir host to extrude it as prevents moving when the extruder is cold, and when it is hot all the repetier host does is moving the header up. Is there a way a could test these motors without needing a hot extruder?\n\nHere you have a picture of it, maybe it is upside down.\n\",Hola Soy Edu Feliz Navidad,\"Found the solution, I had to swap the cables on the board, now they are working.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n5461,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hola Soy Edu Feliz Navidad,1.726248027126092,2.835469776828434,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Filament is not stuck,\"That's my first 3d printer. I'm using Repetier Host as the brand recomends, and set all the configuration as the recommended one. I decided to print one STL file but the result is not the best one.\nThat's what I was trying to print:\n\nand that's what I've got.\n\nHere you have a video of the impression. it is a G2S pro rostock mini\n\",TECTEC3 Studios,\"I would suggest buying Buildtak, which is a high-quality adhesion surface. This surface is almost guaranteed to make your prints stick to your bed. If Buildtak is outside of your budget, I would suggest using a relatively high grade painters tape combined with either purple gluestick or hairspray applied to your bed before each print.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5461,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hola Soy Edu Feliz Navidad,1.726248027126092,2.835469776828434,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Filament is not stuck,\"That's my first 3d printer. I'm using Repetier Host as the brand recomends, and set all the configuration as the recommended one. I decided to print one STL file but the result is not the best one.\nThat's what I was trying to print:\n\nand that's what I've got.\n\nHere you have a video of the impression. it is a G2S pro rostock mini\n\",mac,\"From the video it is very clear there is a major problem with bed adhesion.\n\nIt also looks like you are printing on bare metal (aluminium?) which I never saw anybody doing. I must admit I don't know it is impossible or simply very rare, but the first thing I would try in your case is covering the bed in painter's tape and wipe it with some alcohol. This is a surefire method to get good adhesion with PLA, which - from the temperatures shown in the video I assume is what you are using.\n\nIf you haven't tried this before, you should know that:\n\n\nsome brands of tape work well even without being wiped with alcohol\nyou may need to readjust your nozzle height after having applied the tape\n\n\nUnless you have already done this, I would also suggest to print some test cubes and possibly some stress tests as your first prints, in order to check that the basics (extrusion rate, dimensional accuracy...) are working correctly, as well as getting familiar with the limitats of your printer.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5391,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,RetiredBill,2.8153892694839717,5.252656280669139,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,My extruder does not reach the set temperature,\"Anet A8 with Cura. First time use. The extruder temp is set at 190 °C for PLA but the temp never quite gets that hot, e.g. 189.2 °C. So the printer never prints.\n\nThe bed temperature is fine.\n\nAny suggestions on how to fix?\n\",Tobias Zech,\"It could be as Carl Witthoft said, that the thermistor is broken. But it looks like the PID is not calibrated correctly. It probably can reach higher T's but stops, because the P portion is not high enough. \nAnyways, before printing use a software of your choice (Repetier, Pronterface...) and perform a PID tuning specified here:\n\nhttp://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning\n\nAfter that everything should work out fine. \n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n5391,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,RetiredBill,2.8153892694839717,5.252656280669139,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,My extruder does not reach the set temperature,\"Anet A8 with Cura. First time use. The extruder temp is set at 190 °C for PLA but the temp never quite gets that hot, e.g. 189.2 °C. So the printer never prints.\n\nThe bed temperature is fine.\n\nAny suggestions on how to fix?\n\",Bineet Kumar,\"Please check that the power supply's (SMPS) output voltage is 12 V (while loaded). \n\nNote: Be careful while measuring, as there is a hazard of shock.\n\nIn my case, the voltage was 10 V with one supply and 8 V with another supply. I bought a new one with 12 V and the printer is now running fine.\n\nMy printer Tronoxy i3 (Prusa i3 Mk-II).\n\nHope it helps you too.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5395,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Stephen,3.267423727073639,4.014880994867227,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,Is a dual extruder a reasonable choice for all-purpose printing,\"I'm new to 3D printing and I recently got a LulzBot Taz 6 printer.\n\nI'm interested in doing dual extrusion printing (especially with dissolvable supports), but I'm also interested in doing single extrusion prints. In particular, I would like to experiment with printing flexible filament.\n\nThe LulzBot TAZ Dual Extruder v3 Tool Head says that it can handle all the filament types that I am interested in.\n\nHere is the question: can I use a dual extruder (in particular, the LulzBot TAZ Dual Extruder v3 Tool Head) for general purpose printing (read single extrusion) or do I need to use a single extrusion head for single extrusion print jobs.\n\nIf you can use a dual for single use, why buy single extruders (I've been looking at LulzBot TAZ Aerostruder Tool Head for flexy prints) if you can get the same performance out of a dual head?\n\nIf you should use a single extruder for non-dual prints, please explain the shortcomings of using a dual print head for general purpose use.\n\",Nick Dancer,\"Not an expert by any means but I can’t see any reason you couldn’t use one half of a dual extruder. The benefits of not using one though would be decreased extruder weight. Especially given that this is a direct drive so there will be two stepper motors I believe. Reduced weight means faster print times and a reduction in certain print artifacts such as ringing etc.\n\nShort answer, if your only ever going to need one extruder probably avoid a dual but if you want the flexibility this should work when a single extruder is required.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n5395,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Stephen,3.267423727073639,4.014880994867227,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,Is a dual extruder a reasonable choice for all-purpose printing,\"I'm new to 3D printing and I recently got a LulzBot Taz 6 printer.\n\nI'm interested in doing dual extrusion printing (especially with dissolvable supports), but I'm also interested in doing single extrusion prints. In particular, I would like to experiment with printing flexible filament.\n\nThe LulzBot TAZ Dual Extruder v3 Tool Head says that it can handle all the filament types that I am interested in.\n\nHere is the question: can I use a dual extruder (in particular, the LulzBot TAZ Dual Extruder v3 Tool Head) for general purpose printing (read single extrusion) or do I need to use a single extrusion head for single extrusion print jobs.\n\nIf you can use a dual for single use, why buy single extruders (I've been looking at LulzBot TAZ Aerostruder Tool Head for flexy prints) if you can get the same performance out of a dual head?\n\nIf you should use a single extruder for non-dual prints, please explain the shortcomings of using a dual print head for general purpose use.\n\",Gort the Robot,\"This may be too late to help, but I wanted to describe my own experience with the Lulzbot Taz Dual Extruder v3. It was...not good.\n\nIn terms of your question, I spent a fair amount of time trying to do exactly this. It is possible, but there are some major caveats:\n\n\nIf you are not printing with both extruders, you need to leave the one not in use unloaded. The reason for this is that, at least with PLA, the extruder not in use will get hot enough to drip.\nThe Cura-Lulzbot software, at least when I used it last year, doesn't deal well with this. It tends to default to printing with both extruders, and it made slicing much more complicated than it was with a single extruder.\n\n\nAs such, I personally gave up and swapped my old single extruder back in.\n\nThis isn't meant to contradict the other answer. In theory it should be workable. But in practice, with the device you mention, it's not.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5594,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Stephen,3.452496054252184,4.688074850147093,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,\"ooze shield vs priming tower, do you need both?\",\"I've been experimenting with two color prints. In my first test, I enabled a priming tower and the print came out OK, but there was definitely some oozing from the non-active head and left a lot of blemishes on the print.\n\nI'm trying another print now and I also enabled an ooze shield.\n\nThis got me to thinking, if you are going to print an ooze shield, do you need a priming tower?\n\nI'm using a lulzbot Taz6 with the dual extruder v3\n\",kdtop,\"I have the same printer you do. I recall that the ooze shield is printed in alternating layers; first from E0 and then the next layer from E1. But on a given layer, I don't think that there is a guarantee that the ooze shield will be printed in the filament about to be laid down for the part of the layer. (But I might be wrong on this.) But when it comes time to print the ooze shield, what will happen if the filament has already drizzled out during the print of the last layer? The first part of that ooze shield won't get printed properly and might end up causing a print failure. \n\nAs a separate issue, I found that an ooze shield is only helpful if the overall XY diameter of the print is not too great. This is because it only helps when the print head crosses the perimeter. If the print head spends a fair amount of time inside the perimeter, then the idle head can still continue to ooze out unwanted filament. \n\nSo for many of my prints, I started using the priming tower, but skipping the ooze shield. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5401,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lyndon White,2.528907649931287,4.293018291807974,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Can the `render` function be used to speed up rendering?,\"I am designing a moderately complicated piece in OpenScad.\n\nIt renders fast enough in preview mode (1s).\nBut when i do a full render so I can export to STL,\nit takes ages (In the 10s of minutes)\n\nI have read that sometimes the function render is useful to speed up overall rendering.\n\n\nIs this correct, or have I misunderstood?\n\n\nIf I have misunderstood, what is the render function useful for?\n\nHow does this work?\nIn what circumstances can I apply it?\n\n\",mac,\"First a disclaimer: I am far from an expert on the subject, I'm just a regular Joe who happens to use OpenSCAD and have done some experimentation with it. I believe the answer below to be correct, but I will be very grateful if errors or misconceptions were brought to my attention in the comments. :)\n\n\n I have read that sometimes the function render is useful to speed up overall rendering. Is this correct, or have I misunderstood?\n\n\nI'm unaware if it is possible to use render() to speed up the \"\"overall rendering\"\", but I'm rather confident that the intended purpose of render() is to simplify the in-memory representation of the model and thus the responsiveness of the preview window, rather than speed-up its final rendering.\n\n\n How does this work?\n\n\nIn order to understand how this work, one has to understand how Constructive Solid Geometry (CSG) works.\n\nThe entire premise of CSG is that using boolean operations between primitive solid shapes, it is possible to represent complex shapes.\n\nHowever, while the human operator may see subtractive operations like difference and intersection as something that makes the model smaller in volume and thus possibly easier to handle, the computer sees each and every operation as adding geometry and complexity to the part, as the following image aptly illustrates:\n\n\n\nWhen manipulating the model in the CAD viewer, OpenSCAD is in the preview mode and all that \"\"invisible geometry\"\" needs to be processed for each adjustment of the viewport. It is easy to reach a level at which the OpenSCAD viewer will become jittery or unresponsive.\n\nWhat the render() function does, is telling OpenSCAD to compute the mesh resulting from the boolean operations enclosed in the render() call, and use that single mesh instead of the underlying boolean-combined primitives when handling the model in the viewer. Meshes are what is normally used in the render mode of OpenSCAD (F6) rather than in the preview one, but here their advantage is not better visual quality, but the fact that OpenSCAD needs to handle a lot less geometry.\n\n\n In what circumstances can I apply it?\n\n\nYou can apply it any time you like, really, but it is a trade-off: a model that uses the render() function internally, will take longer to display its initial preview (because generating the mesh is an expensive operation) but it will behave very well in the viewer. Conversely, a large model that does not leverage render() will be jittery to handle in the viewer, but it will render to screen in a fraction of the time. It has to be noted that OpenSCAD make heavy use of caching, so the first preview is the one that will take the longest, while successive ones may be a lot faster.\n\n\n\nFor reference, the code at the bottom of this answer (which generates the image above) behaved like this:\n\n\nWith render(): 15s for the preview, 1m29s more for the proper rendering (TOTAL: 1m44s).\nWithout render(): 0s for the preview, 1m45s more for the proper rendering (TOTAL: 1m45s).\n\n\nI don't know if the fact that the totals resemble each other is a coincidence peculiar to my model or a general rule of thumb (the render() function effectively creating part of the final rendering during preview), but you are free to play with the code and if you find out a pattern, please leave a comment.\n\nIn the following code, you may need to increase the grid size to 20x20 if you want to see the difference in responsiveness between vanilla code and render() function.\n\nAlso remember to close and reopen OpenSCAD between tests, in order to flush the cache.\n\n\n\n$fn = 30;\n\nmodule shape() {\n render() difference() {\n sphere();\n cylinder(r=0.3, h=3, center=true);\n rotate([90, 0, 0]) cylinder(r=0.3, h=3, center=true);\n rotate([0, 90, 0]) cylinder(r=0.3, h=3, center=true);\n rotate([45, 0, 0]) cylinder(r=0.3, h=3, center=true);\n rotate([-45, 0, 0]) cylinder(r=0.3, h=3, center=true);\n rotate([0, 45, 0]) cylinder(r=0.3, h=3, center=true);\n rotate([0, -45, 0]) cylinder(r=0.3, h=3, center=true);\n rotate([90, 0, 45]) cylinder(r=0.3, h=3, center=true);\n rotate([90, 0, -45]) cylinder(r=0.3, h=3, center=true);\n }\n}\n\nmodule line(x, y) {\n translate([x * 2, y, 0]) shape();\n if (x > 0) line(x - 1, y);\n} \n\nmodule grid(x, y) {\n line(x, y * 2);\n if (y > 0) grid(x, y - 1);\n}\n\ngrid(3, 3);\n\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n5405,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ian Mackinnon,3.267423727073639,4.616290579376162,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Marlin's bed leveling Mesh Validation Pattern ignoring home offset,\"I'm using a Prusa clone with Ramps 1.4, Marlin 1.1.5 and an inductive proximity sensor Z-probe. Due to the design of the printer, the X and Y end-stops and the Z-probe are not exactly aligned with the heated bed, so I must use Marlin's Home Offset feature to align the coordinate space to the print area, using the G-code command M206 X-18.5 Y-2.5 Z1.1.\n\nI am now attempting to use Marlin's Unified Bed Leveling feature to compensate for a slight but significant curvature of the bed.\n\nUnfortunately, it appears that the Mesh Validation Pattern command (G26) is not taking the Home Offset into account when printing a test pattern. The printed pattern hangs off the left side of the bed and the center printed circle is clearly misaligned with the center of the print bed by the bed offset amount.\n\nDoes this suggest that my firmware is misconfigured? Or is there an alternative method for aligning the mesh validation test pattern with an offset print bed?\n\",Ian Mackinnon,\"A Marlin developer confirmed that bed-leveling and probing are now performed entirely in the machine coordinate space.\n\nTo clarify further, if one has a non-zero home offset enabled, the following commands refer to different physical locations despite the supplied parameters being the same:\n\nM206 X10 Y10 ; Set a home offset in X and Y\nG30 X100 Y100 ; Probe (100, 100) in machine space\nG0 X100 Y100 ; Move to (100, 100) in print space, ie. (90, 90) in machine coordinate space\n\n\nI was able to correctly align the bed-leveling grid by altering header files in the source code. I defined the XY offset using two new macros BED_OFFSET_X and BED_OFFSET_Y in Configuraion.h and altered the following lines in Conditionals_post.h.\n\n#define X_CENTER ((X_BED_SIZE) / 2) + BED_OFFSET_X\n#define Y_CENTER ((Y_BED_SIZE) / 2) + BED_OFFSET_Y\n\n\nThe mesh is now physically aligned with the bed and I have not observed any adverse effects.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5409,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jared Deckard,1.726248027126092,3.7649394530103804,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How can I rotate a 3D model to be parallel with the build plate?,\"I have an STL that has a flat surface which should contact the build place when 3D printing. The model has an unknown rotation. How can I rotate the 3D model to be flush with the build plate?\n\nI am very comfortable with OpenSCAD, and I can use it to rotate the STL if I know the correct angle. Is there a tool that will let me analyze a single face (triangle) of a model to determine it's normal? If I can even get the coordinates from 3 points from the desired face I can calculate the normal and use that to calculate the rotation vector.\n\",Hola Soy Edu Feliz Navidad,\"Some tools like Cura or Repetier Host have slicers that analyses and tell you if it is ok to print or not. Both of them allow rotations.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5414,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Claudi,2.8153892694839717,4.409132006173985,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Filament starts extruding as soon as hotend reaches melting point,\"I have a homemade 3D printer running on ramps 1.4\nWhen i start a new print and the hotend reaches melting point of PLA, the PLA start coming out of the hotend.\nThis goes on for as long as the temperature is kept above melting point, without moving the extrusion gear. \n\nThe extruder is a bowden type.\nHotend is a J-head.\nI am currently using simplify if that makes any difference regarding configuration.\n\nAny ideas what to do to prevent this from happening?\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"Does it really go on for more than a minute or so? You can't get filament from nowhere, so if the feed gear isn't moving, sooner or later all the material in the reservoir inside the nozzle & hotend will be melted and gone. Leakage like this is normal, and probably a lot more noticeable if you have a larger diameter nozzle. \n\nI would recommend checking to see if your gcode includes a large retraction at the end of the print. That would reduce the pressure and the amount of material left inside the hotend. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5414,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Claudi,2.8153892694839717,4.409132006173985,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Filament starts extruding as soon as hotend reaches melting point,\"I have a homemade 3D printer running on ramps 1.4\nWhen i start a new print and the hotend reaches melting point of PLA, the PLA start coming out of the hotend.\nThis goes on for as long as the temperature is kept above melting point, without moving the extrusion gear. \n\nThe extruder is a bowden type.\nHotend is a J-head.\nI am currently using simplify if that makes any difference regarding configuration.\n\nAny ideas what to do to prevent this from happening?\n\",mac,\"\n Any ideas what to do to prevent this from happening?\n\n\nYou cannot prevent it entirely, but you can probably mitigate the problem by depressing the lever that squashes the filament against the hobbed gear of the extruder before starting to heat the nozzle.\n\nIn bowden extruders, the long portion of filament between the stepper motor and the nozzle is subject to compression during the print. Because of the hysteresis in the filament, and of the slack between filament and PTFE tube, this filament acts like a slow-releasing compression spring. When the nozzle cools down, the potential energy stored in the filament is \"\"frozen\"\" in place.\n\nBy depressing the lever, you allow the spring to extend \"\"backward\"\" towards the spool, rather than \"\"forward\"\" through the nozzle.\n\nSome oozing is still bound to happen because of gravity and - as highlighted by others - thermal expansion, but it should be significantly less.\n\nIf you adopt the lever trick, remember to print with a skirt, as you will want the printer to recreate that \"\"compression\"\" in the filament before the model proper begins.\n\nAnother way to address the issue would be to add a little bit of retraction in the closing stanza of your GCODE (the part where you also tell the printer to unpower the steppers and stop heating). This will prevent any \"\"compression\"\" to be \"\"frozen\"\" in the first place.\n\nThis anwer is based on the assumption that the stepper motor is not actively spinning (i.e.: yours is not a hardware/firmware issue).\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5422,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,LDF,3.452496054252184,3.646280618164887,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.749318730431847,4.208576161768494,Heat bed troubles,\"I am currently building my own 3D printer, it is all set and ready to go but I seem to be having issues with the silicone heat bed I purchased. The motherboard I use is from the Flashforge Creator Pro for it allows me to use dual print heads.\n\nThe silicone heater bed I purchased has 3 leads with the capabilities to be run three phase which was something I did not ask for nor did I expect. Now I've noticed that when I plug it into my board, the board says that it is sending power to the bed but it doesn't seem to heat up. Also when I wire its thermistor, in it keeps reading around 110°C at initial startup and would not recognize room temperature.\n\nOne last thing, my power supply is a 24v rather than the standard 12v. I'm stuck because I have no idea how to resolve these issues. Do I need a different heat bed altogether or should I make it 3 phase and if I do how would I go about doing so? The pictures are too large so here are the links:\n\n\nhttps://drive.google.com/file/d/1fNCc2aKJic9ACn1d8CVDnzHJbwI_SPab/view?usp=sharing\nhttps://drive.google.com/file/d/15RtSgFpN_p6zr2ynQqLlLJ-FU4XQ7G67/view?usp=sharing\nhttps://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2mY70_iFEAGckloR0RyRENNYW8/view?usp=sharing\n\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"What you purchased is probably a bed that can be configured for either 110V or for 220V, depending on how you hook up the wires: the bed contains two heating elements, hooking these up in parallel gives you the 110V version, hooking them up in series gives you the 220V one.\n\nIf you attempt to use this bed with a 24V supply it won't work. The power dissipated by a heater is proportional to the voltage squared. Depending on which way you hook up this bed, you'd either get 1.2% of the designed power (220V mode hooked up to 24V), 4.8% (110V mode hooked up to 24V) or 2.4% (one half of the 110V circuit hooked up to 24V).\n\nIf my assumptions are correct (which you could verify using a multimeter to measure the resistance between the various pairs of wires), then the only way to use this bed is to connect it to mains power and use a (solid-state) relay to control it. However, please get advice from somebody experienced in working with mains electronics before doing this. Do not attempt this on your own.\n\",3.2133663407215876,0.0\n5469,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,LDF,-1.726248027126092,4.1764561374575395,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Heat bed won't heat above 70°C,\"I am currently heating a silicone heat bed through the 110v/220v AC mains and for some reason it only seems to heat up to 70°C, but it is heating the bed evenly. The power supply I am using is 24v power supply with the power turned up. The SSR has not been heating up at all during use, so could it be that it's not getting enough power even through the mains?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Preface: Working with mains voltage is dangerous. I'm writing this answer based off limited and incomplete information about your situation. Mains voltage can kill. Be careful, and get help from somebody else if you're not 100% certain of what you're doing. Make sure to connect to protective earth any exposed metal surfaces of your printer.\n\nI think that the heated bed you have is a dual voltage bed, meaning it can be used with either a 110V supply or with a 220V supply. It has three wires, and internally, these are connected as follows (resistances are a guess, this would correspond to a 1000W bed):\n\n\n\nBecause this is a dual-voltage bed, there are three wires. You need to hook up the correct combination of wires to get the correct power rating - and this depends on the mains voltage in your country.\n\nThe formula for power P dissipated by a resistance R across a voltage V is P = V2/R. We can see, that if we apply 220V across wire 1 and wire 3 we get a power dissipation of 2202 / 48 = 1000 Watts (because the resistors are in series, we get a resistance of 24+24=48 Ohms).\n\nSo, in a 220V country, the wiring is easy: just connect wires 1 and 3 to live and neutral. Note: in a 220V country, don't make the mistake of connecting any other pair of wires. If you instead connect wire 1 and 2 to the mains, your heated bed will draw 4000W. This will (should) trip the circuit breaker/fuse, and possibly damage the bed or start a fire.\n\nSo, what does a person in a 110V country do? What happens if you connect 110V across wires 1 and 3? You get a power dissipation of 1102 / 48 = 250 Watts. That's only a quarter of the bed's power, so it's not going to get very hot (not even up to the 70 degrees you observed, I would think).\n\nSo what if, instead, we hook 110V across wires 1 and 2? In that case, we have 110V across a 24 Ohm resistor, so we get a power dissipation of 1102 / 24 = 500 Watts. Better, but still not enough to get a bed this large up to temperature.\n\nSo, how are you supposed to get the full 1000W rating of this bed in a 110V country? You need to connect the two resistors in parallel!\n\nIf you connect wires 1 and 3 together, and connect wire 2 to one side of the mains supply and wires 1 and 3 to the other, you get two 24 Ohm resistors in parallel, each dissipating 500W, giving you the total output of 1000W (or equivalently: two 24 Ohm resistors in parallel make a 12 Ohm resistor, which will dissipate 1102 / 12 = 1000W).\n\nYou should use a multimeter to measure the resistance between the wires. Out of the three possible combinations, two should give roughly the same reading (in the 20-40 Ohms range), and one combination should give roughly double that value. This latter combination identifies wires 1 and 3. These wires should be connected together in a 110V country.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5927,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,LDF,2.1782824847157594,3.071923460387521,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Dual PSU with one switch fuse,\"My home built printer has been having issues running properly. The x/y/z motors will run freely with standard non build position commands but when they are suppose to start a raft layer and they freeze up and don't respond properly. When I put my hands on my x/y motors they're cold as if no power is getting through, yet they ran just a moment before. I currently have a variable PSU which allows from 0-48v power output. I started turning the supply up and as I reached about 34v I noticed the motors started to run properly but my board did not regulate the power and instead started pushing the power through all of the ouptuts activating the second empty extruder and causing the heat on my extruders to rise to an extreme 300°C vaporizing my PLA. Ever since this incident my board continues to attempt to push power through all outputs regardless of the power output settings (ie if I set the output on my PSU to 11v, the motherboard still activates all motors and heaters) I am curious if I were to use 2 24v PSUs in parallel (or a series) if that would allow my motors to get the power they need without putting strain on my motherboard. \n\",cmm,\"@TomvanderZanden's comment is right. You have probably damaged your motherboard and/or driver boards by applying 34 volts. You should never exceed rated voltages. \n\nIt might help to study stepper motor driver circuits a bit. Stepper drivers usually act as current sources, not as voltage sources. They typically have a high-frequency switch that applies pulses of voltage so that the current through the inductance of the motor matches the current needs for the desired step position. Motors generate torque from the strength of the magnetic fields, with is linearly related to the current through the coil. The voltage drives the current, but the current cannot change instantaneously in an inductive circuit. Unless the motors have an uncommonly high coil resistance, two to five average volts will be enough to provide the maximum current.\n\nThe motors are pretty insensitive to the voltage applied, as long as the current meets the specifications. The motor driver chips are sensitive to the applied voltage. They are sensitive because the internal switches and logic can only withstand certain voltages, and they are sensitive because the circuits assume that the current won't change too quickly. If the current gets so high that the magnetic material in motor saturates, the inductance suddenly becomes much lower, and the current can spike to very high levels. This current spike can destroy drivers.\n\nHeaters also have a voltage spec. The heaters I've seen are specified for 12 or 24 volts. To avoid burning out, a heater must have a low enough thermal resistance to the object being heated that the inner heater temperature is not so high that the heating element is damaged. Powering a 12v heater from 34 volts would cause the current to increase by a factor of 34/12 = 2.83. The power would be that ratio squared because both the current and the voltage are higher. The heaters, whenever they were on, would be generating 8.02 times the power. This might not result in the good behavior of the heater control systems, and could damage the FETs which are driving the heaters.\n\nAs for changing the power supply, before doing that I would want to check that the power supply was not supplying the needed voltage and current.\n\nWhen you've replaced the motherboard and drivers, and configured the drivers for the required operating current, attach a voltmeter to the power supply. Turn on all the heaters, power up the otors, and watch the supply voltage. If it remains true (say, within 15%), the power supply isn't the problem. If the voltage dips, or pulses, or does anything other than staying stable, I would consider a higher current (not higher voltage) supply. Connecting two supplies in series causes problems with the ground reference of one of the supplies. Connecting two supplies in parallel, unless they are designed for that use, often isn't any better than a single supply because they will not necessarily share the load well.\n\nGood luck! I look forward to further questions.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6208,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,LDF,2.1782824847157594,3.9972059781872438,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,DQ542MA Driver proper settings for NEMA 17 Stepper Motor,\"Using a 24 V power supply I have two NEMA 17 stepper motors each driven by a DQ542MA stepper motor driver. I have the current settings on the driver set for a RMS of 1.69 and a pulse/rev of 400. When I run the motors they run extremely well but become extremely hot. I need help to figure out what would be the proper settings to use in order to stop the overheating.\n\nAttached is a photo of the motor's setting tables: \n\n\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"It is completely normal for a stepper motor to get hot. Taking this datasheet for example, specifies a 80 °C temperature rise. That is, in an room that is 25 °C ambient temperature, the motors would get up to 105 °C.\n\nTo prevent the motors from getting as hot you could further reduce the operating current, but likely the temperature they're running at is normal.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6233,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,LDF,2.1782824847157594,3.7393256487986095,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,DQ542MA Blown Fuse,\"I purchased two DQ542MA drivers in order to run two NEMA 17 steppers. After about five days of use I noticed that the green indicator light had gone out on both drivers. \n\nThe DQ542MA driver running my NEMA 23 High Torque stepper was still running and it has been connected to that stepper for five months now. Using an Ohm meter to check I found that the 10amp 125v LittleFuse connected to the power pins had blown on both drivers connected to the NEMA 17 steppers cutting off the power. \n\nI decided to test the still working driver by disconnecting it from the NEMA 23 stepper and corresponding pins on the motherboard and connecting and resetting it to work with one of the NEMA 17 steppers. The minute I turned my printer back on, the still working stepper (now attached to the NEMA 17 stepper) immediately blew the same fuse. I don't understand why the NEMA 17 steppers blew the fuses of the drivers, seeing as how both are properly set to a RMS of 1.69 and a pulse/rev of 400, and both are connected to a 24v PSU. \n\nMy question is: \"\"When I fix the drivers should I solder in a 15amp 125v LittleFuse to better help the power flow and prevent any further blown fuses?\"\"\n\",Trish,\"Part Analysis\n\nLet's see what we have:\n\n\nThe fuse in the driver is set to keep up the loads that the driver can safely handle. \nThe NEMA 17 results in a blown out fuse\n\n\nConclusion\n\nThe problem lies not in the driver, but the NEMA 17 motor or the wires to it and can be of several ways:\n\n\nThe motor has a short and is defective.\nThe motor is not rated to the driver board.\nThe wires to the motor create a short.\n\n\nBut there is also a 3rd option, as the driver board is connected to the controller:\n\n\nThe controller supplies the driver with too much current and fries it.\n\n\nSolution\n\nDo not solder in a higher rated fuse, as this is asking for fatal part failure - which could be fire just as much as totally frying the logic circuits on the board forever. Instead, find out what type of error resulted in the blown fuse, and replace these parts.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6233,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,LDF,2.1782824847157594,3.7393256487986095,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,DQ542MA Blown Fuse,\"I purchased two DQ542MA drivers in order to run two NEMA 17 steppers. After about five days of use I noticed that the green indicator light had gone out on both drivers. \n\nThe DQ542MA driver running my NEMA 23 High Torque stepper was still running and it has been connected to that stepper for five months now. Using an Ohm meter to check I found that the 10amp 125v LittleFuse connected to the power pins had blown on both drivers connected to the NEMA 17 steppers cutting off the power. \n\nI decided to test the still working driver by disconnecting it from the NEMA 23 stepper and corresponding pins on the motherboard and connecting and resetting it to work with one of the NEMA 17 steppers. The minute I turned my printer back on, the still working stepper (now attached to the NEMA 17 stepper) immediately blew the same fuse. I don't understand why the NEMA 17 steppers blew the fuses of the drivers, seeing as how both are properly set to a RMS of 1.69 and a pulse/rev of 400, and both are connected to a 24v PSU. \n\nMy question is: \"\"When I fix the drivers should I solder in a 15amp 125v LittleFuse to better help the power flow and prevent any further blown fuses?\"\"\n\",profesor79,\"If the fuse blows - there is a reason for that, so changing it for a higher rating without understanding the source of the problem is: \n\n Asking for fire!!!\n\nEvery stepper has its own internal resistance (and as we have a magnetic field it is called a reluctance), that is limiting the max current, but this equation needs to take U given to the motor. \n\n\n A simple and popular solution is to give only as much voltage as\n needed, utilizing the resistance (RL) of the winding to limit the\n current (fig. 4a). A more complicated but also more efficient and\n precise solution is the inclusion of a current generator (fig. 4b), to\n achieve independence from the winding resistance. The supply voltage\n in Fig. 4b has to be higher than the one in Fig. 4a. A comparison\n between both circuits in the dynamic load/working order shows visible\n differences.\n\n\nSource Stepper motor driving by H. SAX - page 2\n\nThat said - the higher voltage applied to the stepper - the higher current is flowing via its coils.\n\nPlease check the datasheet of your driver to see how it is managing to current limit your stepper as that looks like a source of your issue.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n9872,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,LDF,2.1782824847157594,2.917283834062601,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,ASA and BVOH adhesion,\"I am printing a mechanical part for my printer. \n\nIt's a new mount for my extruders and I have been attempting to use BVOH as a support filament so that when my print is done it will cut down on the need to finish the part and possible mistakes. \n\nMy problem is I can get the BVOH to adhere to the bed with no problem and no warping of any kind, but I can't get the ASA to adhere to the BVOH supports. I run the BVOH at 220 °C and the ASA at 250 °C with my fan at 10 % and I am using a Flashforge Creator Pro printer which is mostly enclosed. \n\nDoes anyone know of a way to get the ASA to adhere to the BVOH?\n\",cmm,\"Can you tell by looking at the de-adhesion what isn't sticking? \n\nIt may be that printing the ASA at higher temperature is melting the BVOH enough that it doesn't stick, being molten. If so, then it may be possible to print the first layer of ASA at a cooler temperature, slower if necessary to still succeed at extrusion, with fans blowing. Then, print the next layer of ASA at a higher temperature, also with fans flowing.\n\nA test might be to print the BVOH, then a layer of ASA, and stop. Let it cool and test the adhesion. If it sticks under these conditions, then a better command of the temperature profile may offer a way forward.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5433,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Elite Stomper,2.1782824847157594,3.304391138419485,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,What size is the lead screw,\"So I am fairly new to 3d Printing and have a question that is probabley stupid. I built a 3D printer kit a while back but now I want a large printer to play with. I would like to build a 300X300X400 clone of a 3D printer. But I am not sure what size lead screws to by they come in 300mm length but once you connect the coupler and the to the screw that takes 20mm's that the axis can not travel too so isn't it more like 280mm length? Or do most people round up to the next size or ??? \n\nI would really like to thanks anyone that can help me in advance Thanks alot \n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"You'll need to do some calculation to figure out how long of a lead screw you need. The best solution would be to mock up the entire printer in CAD so you can visualize how everything fits together. Not only is the coupler going to take up some space, but the nut also takes up some space, and perhaps (due to design constraints) you won't be able to have the nut go up right against the coupler so you'll need some more space. Unfortunately, there isn't a general \"\"just take the length of your Z-axis and add X millimeters\"\"-type formula.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5434,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Fernando Baltazar,3.767809650974757,6.047319411582701,4.072585167927022,2.011441651225199,4.091740895605862,4.592941926651472,Which is the difference between MK6 and MK8 and even MK10?,\"I made and assembled my own 3D printer two years ago and I notice that some extruders are MK6 and MK(*whatever). Some of them has the block fuser horizontal and others vertical, then uses a nozzle longer.\n\nThe block heater that I made was an aluminum block 20x20x10 mm using the M6 short nozzle. Then adapted the radiator to upgrade to Jhead heater.\n\nSo I wanted to know to which group belongs my printer, as base is a prusa clone with direct extrusion.\n\",mac,\"All credits for the following go to user \"\"vermon\"\" who posted in this thread.\n\nThe following is a heavily amended version from his longer answer there.\n\n\n\nMakerbot did start its hotend series using MK as iteration designator (for Mark). The first commercially available version was the [Makerbot] MK4 on the Cupcake circa 2009. MK4 was hand built with nichrome wire heaters and prone to all kinds of failures. They only worked with ABS and 3 mm filament.\n\nFollowing here, Makerbot was skipped as a manufacturer and that it is the hotend we talk about. The correct nomenclature would be Makerbot Hotend MK#\n\nMK5 was a complete redesign and had huge nozzles and a thick PTFE liner. It used 2 large power resistors in parallel for heating and was also prone to failure.\n\nMK6 was the first hotend sold as a kit that I know of (however Repraps had also started using them probably before).\n\nMk6+ was the first cartridge heater hotend sold in kit form. The MK5/MK6 heater block was stainless steel, where MK6+ upgrade kit was an aluminum block that was slightly smaller, a lot lighter, and had the now standard 1/4 inch heater cartridge.\n\nMK7 was the first hotend you folks would think looks familiar. It was the first move to 1.75 mm filament dedicated extruders. While a MK6+kit had parts to adapt to 1.75 mm filament, it never worked well at all and was really a failure.\n\nAgain, this is all Thing-O-Matic and Cupcake era. Other than a few clones, there really was no third party market in the US at this time. You either had a MakerBot or some other Reprap based kit. Wanhao, FlashForge- they didn't even exist and if they did, weren't talked about like now.\n\nMK8 was the all new dual extruder hotend setup on the MakerBot Replicator. The cooling bar was thicker than the MK7 but the same all metal thermal barrier and supposedly, the MK8 has slightly different nozzle geometry internally and externally.\n\nMK9 was a MK8 hotend, cooling bar, thermal barrier, and nozzle, but the new feeder with spring lever we know on all current models. This is why it's confusing, MK9 was a feeder upgrade, not a hotend change.\n\nMK10 was a complete change of the hotend. MK10 uses smooth OD thermal barriers with a larger 4 mm OD 2 mm ID PTFE liner. MK10 also uses M7 threads, vs the M6 of all previous models. This is because a 4 mm PTFE liner is barely enough metal to make the outer tube with M6 threads. MK10 is completely incompatible with all previous hotend parts. Every part is different. MK10 still uses MK9 feeder parts.\n\nMK11 on the D6 is just an MK10 nozzle and thermal barrier, but a different heater block and the cooling bar is part of the D6 central cross. Again, the only real difference is MK11 is a different heater block, and that's to adapt a different and longer heater cartridge and slide in the thermocouple. MK11 still uses MK9 plastic feeder parts.\n\n\n\n\n I wanted to know to which group belongs my printer, as base is a Prusa clone with direct extrusion.\n\n\nThis question seem difficult to answer concretely, as the number in the series seem to be assigned based on a combination of heating block technology and format, the feeder geometry and the nozzle shape and thread that was adopted on the MakerBot printers. Your actual combination of those three may not exist in the MakerBot universe.\n\nI suggest you read the full, unabridged version of the post linked above though, as more details relevant to your inquiry may be disclosed there.\n\",3.5068404193471867,2.0769199823829045\n5454,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Fernando Baltazar,1.0891412423578797,3.4471789634270973,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,is possible to send printing with mach3?,\"I was wondering if is possible to send printing using the software MACH3 for CNC since this software can handle up to 3 axes: X,Y,Z,A,B and C.\nOf course the CNC needs an extra control for temperature which I already have it; My CNC handle a Z axis with 150mm height, so I could print higher parts than normal CNC.\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"Well, few years ago I could set the software Mach3 for printing doing the next:\n\n\nSet a profile for 3D printing for the faster movements that your CNC can support; for example some CNC uses standard threads, others ACME threads and other GT2 belts like the 3D printers. If we try to use a feed rate too high the motors will shake. For this profile is not needed the torque for machining or routing, so we will sacrifice force to gain speed.\nCreate the proper gcode. Mostly Gcode maker generate the code to send pulses to Extruder E but Mach3 takes as invalid E instructions, so the extruder will never move. To avoid this there are 2 modes:\n\n\na) Find and replace all E instruction with A to enable Motor A or\n\nb) Create the Gcode with an interpreter to output A instead E\n like Slicer 0.71 as you can see in the image below. I haven't tried with other software\n\n\n\n3.For controlling the extruder temperature is possible with any other controller like REX-C100/C400 any PIC or Arduino. The accuracy will depend on your design.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5527,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Fernando Baltazar,2.1782824847157594,5.051736646687476,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Any code to move up Z axis after finishing the printing?,\"Is the firts time that I saw this movement after the printing has finishig and causes the nozzle crashes to the printed part and I noticed due the part is 14x8 and the nozzle is to near and below to the border of the shape. I supposed that some scripts has changed but, seems to be everything ok.\n\nthis is the end script:\n\nG92 E0\nG1 E-1.5000 F1800\n; layer end\nM104 S0 ; turn off extruder\nM140 S0 ; turn off bed\nG28 X0 ; home X axis\nM84 ; disable motors\n; Build Summary\n; Build time: 3 hours 9 minutes\n; Filament length: 12689.1 mm (12.69 m)\n; Plastic volume: 30520.78 mm^3 (30.52 cc)\n; Plastic weight: 38.15 g (0.08 lb)\n\n\nZ axis moves down 4mm after finishing going to X0, why? I don't want the nozzle crashes the part on going to zero.\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"There is something fundamentally wrong with your z-motor drive if both screws are dropping the gantry at all.\n\nTry a couple experiments.\n Write a quick script to move the head somewhere up high, then terminate without the X-homing command. See if the z-axis moves. Ditto for X-home but not motor disable. \n\nWrite any script, and while the gantry is up high, pull power and see what happens.\n\nThat will at least help narrow down the list of possible problems. In the meantime, please post your printer, the motors, and the driver board/firmware in use.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5527,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Fernando Baltazar,2.1782824847157594,5.051736646687476,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Any code to move up Z axis after finishing the printing?,\"Is the firts time that I saw this movement after the printing has finishig and causes the nozzle crashes to the printed part and I noticed due the part is 14x8 and the nozzle is to near and below to the border of the shape. I supposed that some scripts has changed but, seems to be everything ok.\n\nthis is the end script:\n\nG92 E0\nG1 E-1.5000 F1800\n; layer end\nM104 S0 ; turn off extruder\nM140 S0 ; turn off bed\nG28 X0 ; home X axis\nM84 ; disable motors\n; Build Summary\n; Build time: 3 hours 9 minutes\n; Filament length: 12689.1 mm (12.69 m)\n; Plastic volume: 30520.78 mm^3 (30.52 cc)\n; Plastic weight: 38.15 g (0.08 lb)\n\n\nZ axis moves down 4mm after finishing going to X0, why? I don't want the nozzle crashes the part on going to zero.\n\",mac,\"You can use:\n\nG91\nG1 Z10\n\n\nG91 make the printer use ralative positioning, while G1 Z10 would move the gantry up of 10mm, reagrdless of its actual position.\n\nIn order to understand what's going on, you could experiment with the position of those lines in the script.\n\nThe safest bet it to insert them at the very top, but you could insert them straight after the homing of the X axis to understand if the drop you are seeing is caused by the homing command itself or by the ´M84´ one.\n\nMy guess is that the drop is actually caused by the latter. M84 doesn't really \"\"disable motors\"\", rather it stops using energy to keep them still (i.e.: it stops the idle hold). What I believe is happening in your case is that when you stop the idle hold, the weight and mechanical play of the X gantry causes it to move slightly (a bit like when you relax your body on the sofa and you \"\"sink\"\" in it a bit more).\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n6522,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Fernando Baltazar,4.146747269907207,6.276555264032436,4.533938825782293,4.022883302450398,4.731113485304429,4.136288127889639,Different infill in the same part,\"I´ve have read an article to change different pattern depending on amount of layers, but my question is if is possible to have different infill in the same part? For example:\n\n\nBase: has the infill of 25 % but the same base has some tabs for screws and mount the part for this area the infill need to be 40 % or greater.\nThe walls and forms: this has the same of the whole part and can be filled at 25 % but some areas need to be filled at 15% or less.\n\n\nProbably someone has seen or reviewed another software to achieve this, or I'm fooling myself.\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"I don't particularly recommend the following, but it may be easier than 0scar's answer (which I would recommend implementing if you use Cura).\n\nSlice your object twice, once at the lower infill and once at the higher infil. Then open both gcode files in a text editor and replace all per-layer code in one file with the code from the same layers in the other file. This certainly takes some care to ensure no bugs fall in, and you'll want to know the exact layers at which to change infill. Further, this only changes density on a per-layer basis, not on an X-Y region basis. \n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n6522,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Fernando Baltazar,4.146747269907207,6.276555264032436,4.533938825782293,4.022883302450398,4.731113485304429,4.136288127889639,Different infill in the same part,\"I´ve have read an article to change different pattern depending on amount of layers, but my question is if is possible to have different infill in the same part? For example:\n\n\nBase: has the infill of 25 % but the same base has some tabs for screws and mount the part for this area the infill need to be 40 % or greater.\nThe walls and forms: this has the same of the whole part and can be filled at 25 % but some areas need to be filled at 15% or less.\n\n\nProbably someone has seen or reviewed another software to achieve this, or I'm fooling myself.\n\",0scar,\"This answer explains that you can have different infill within the same part. Firstly the implementation in Ultimaker Cura is described, second how you can do this in Slic3r.\n\n\n\nUltimaker Cura\n\nI've used a feature in Ultimaker Cura that can be used to alter the infill density locally. What you need to do is load your model into Cura, then load other objects (models) at the size of the area/volume you want your infill differently and position those at the position you want a different infill. So basically, you use other models to intersect with your primary model to create intersections that can take a different infill percentage. This is extremely useful for lugs and brackets where you need some extra infill (e.g. extra stiffness for compression stresses) at the fastener holes. Note that this is an advanced feature which is not easy to use, but quite handy if you master it.\n\nI could not find the video (on second thoughts, I think it was animated GIF) posted by Team Ultimaker, so I quote a section of one of their forum topics.\n\nA short how-to: (italic font is not in the reference, but added to reflect recent version on Cura)\n\n\n \n Unselect \"\"keep models apart\"\" (now called: \"\"Ensure models are kept apart\"\") and \"\"drop models to build plate\"\" (now called: \"\"Automatically drop models to the build plate\"\") in Cura preferences\n Import a second object (for example a simple cube)\n Put Cura in \"\"custom mode\"\"\n Select the cube, and use the button \"\"per object settings\"\" on the left side\n Select \"\"Infill Mesh\"\" (now called: \"\"Modify settings for infill of other models\"\") and enable that setting\n The cube now turns transparent gray.\n Position the cube to overlap part of your model. It should overlap with the section that you want to change the infill for.\n Also with \"\"per object settings\"\" (now called: \"\"Per model settings\"\") select the option \"\"infill density\"\"\n Set it to the desired value. All is more or less illustrated in the screenshot below\n The picture shows a cube on the buildplate with infill 20%. Locally, with a rotated 2nd cube, the infill % is raised to 100%.\n What happens is that the volume where the cube intersects with your object is locally sliced with different infill.\n \n \n \n\n\nPlease find below another example of a simple bracket that has extra cylindrical objects loaded to create the intersections with the bracket at the fastener holes. In the example, the infill at the fastener holes is set to 99 %.\n\n\n \n\n\nAfter slicing, you will see that the infill at the intersections is adjusted accordingly.\n\n\n \n\n\nNote: I've tested this in Ultimaker Cura 3.4.1, and confirm it works. I sliced a part with the inserts for fasteners and it actually is not very difficult, it just requires a little more work. You will have to make some STL's of cylinders and position them correctly. If you make your own 3D models it will be a very easy task to add extra components while you design, positioning will be a lot more easy then (as they align with your model). Note that this will also work if you want a different infill percentage at the first X layers, just use a large cube (larger than the model) and position it correctly. Note that Cura already has an option called \"\"Gradual Infill Steps\"\" to adjust the density at the top layers.\n\n\n\nSlic3r\n\nThis reference describes how to do this for Slic3r in detail.\n\nThe blog describes the use of a simple volume (the green volume loaded from an STL file). After loading:\n\n\n Right-clicking on the main part brought up the object settings menu.\n From there, clicking \"\"Load Modifier\"\" and selecting the previously\n saved model adds it to the part as a modifier.\n \n The green \"\"+\"\" was selected and \"\"Fill Density\"\" was added to modifier\n list and set to 100%.\n\n\n\n\n\nThis shows that the functionality in Slic3r is very similar to the functionality in Ultimaker Cura.\n\",4.0548168669725735,2.0769199823829045\n7207,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Fernando Baltazar,2.528907649931287,3.510789227224567,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,Hold torque during pause to change filament,\"How can I achieve keeping the motors active during pause to avoid moving their position during filament changes? I have changed the filament during some prints to change the color or to change the a newer spool, but sometimes the X axis is moved during the change. I'm now using some cloth clips to prevent moving during this change. \n\nTo pause the 3D printer I'm using the LCD menu ->pause, then I go to Move axis X, then I move close to 0. This change is manually and random since I don't know when the old filament reel is going to finish. The printer use Marlin as firmware with Ramps 1.4\n\",0scar,\"I have not tried this, but you could use the M84 S0 command, this prevents the motors to go into an idle state.\n\nFrom the M84 G-code wiki (firmware specific!):\n\n\n On Marlin, Repetier and RepRapFirmware, M84 can also be used to\n configure or disable the idle timeout. For example, M84 S10 will\n idle the stepper motors after 10 seconds of inactivity. M84 S0 will\n disable idle timeout; steppers will remain powered up regardless of\n activity.\n\n\nWhat rests is to implement this command into your G-code file to be executed during pause. Depending on the pause method you could introduce this command. I have not tried this, but you could put the command in your start G-code and test if the motors keep powered!\n\nFurthermore, a specific filament change command is available for specific firmware applications. This code, M600, can be used to change filament. From the Marlin documentation you can read (since you are using Marlin Firmware, you could use this G-code command):\n\n\n The M600 command initiates the filament change procedure. The basic\n procedure will move the print head away from the print, eject the\n filament, wait for new filament to be inserted and the user to\n confirm, load and prime the filament, and continue with the print.\n M600 may be initiated automatically if a filament runout sensor is\n installed.\n\n\nPlease do note that in Marlin Firmware the M600 command is only available when the comments before //#define ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE in the advanced configuration options file Configuration_adv.h are removed, hereby activating the command.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7207,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Fernando Baltazar,2.528907649931287,3.510789227224567,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,Hold torque during pause to change filament,\"How can I achieve keeping the motors active during pause to avoid moving their position during filament changes? I have changed the filament during some prints to change the color or to change the a newer spool, but sometimes the X axis is moved during the change. I'm now using some cloth clips to prevent moving during this change. \n\nTo pause the 3D printer I'm using the LCD menu ->pause, then I go to Move axis X, then I move close to 0. This change is manually and random since I don't know when the old filament reel is going to finish. The printer use Marlin as firmware with Ramps 1.4\n\",towe,\"Is ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE enabled in your printers configuration_adv.h file?\nThere is a PAUSE_PARK_NO_STEPPER_TIMEOUT option included in there, which prevents the steppers from timing out during a pause, and may be more robust than a G-Code command if you plan to manually pause and resume the print instead of setting it up in the slicer.\n\nAlternatively, in the same file,\n\n#define DEFAULT_STEPPER_DEACTIVE_TIME 120\n#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_X true\n#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_Y true\n#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_Z true // set to false if the nozzle will fall down on your printed part when print has finished.\n#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_E true\n\n\ncan be found. You may want to increase the DEFAULT_STEPPER_DEACTIVE_TIME, or set \n\n#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_X true\n#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_Y true\n#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_Z true // set to false if the nozzle will fall down on your printed part when print has finished.\n\n\nto false to keep X, Y and Z engaged while allowing movement of the extruder stepper only.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n5445,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,MeltingDog,2.8153892694839717,4.261303989854891,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.306096197889172,\"In Fusion 360 how do I select an entire 3D object, not just its sides or faces?\",\"I'd like to mirror a triangular prism I made. However, whenever I select it I am only able to select the faces or sides.\n\nIs there a way to select the whole 3D object to move or mirror it?\n\",0scar,\"Yes, there is a \"\"select\"\" tool in the toolbar next to \"\"make\"\". You can use select filters to select components, bodies and faces.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n5445,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,MeltingDog,2.8153892694839717,4.261303989854891,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.306096197889172,\"In Fusion 360 how do I select an entire 3D object, not just its sides or faces?\",\"I'd like to mirror a triangular prism I made. However, whenever I select it I am only able to select the faces or sides.\n\nIs there a way to select the whole 3D object to move or mirror it?\n\",Tim D,\"Selecting the body in the browser will select the entire body. Clicking on the body in the viewer will only get you faces or edges. \n\nA long click (click and hold) on the model will give you options on what to select. You can choose a face or body under \"\"Depth\"\" or choose a body or feature under \"\"Parents.\"\" \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5447,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ar2015,3.267423727073639,5.178570062559029,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,E axis vs Z axis,\"When using G1 command in G-code, what is the difference between Z- axis and E- axis?\n\nI see all E, F and Z in\n\nG1 Z0.350 F7800.000\nG1 E-2.00000 F2400.00000\nG92 E0\nG1 X96.753 Y95.367 F7800.000\nG1 E2.00000 F2400.00000\n\n\",fred_dot_u,\"z-axis refers typically to vertical movement\n\nF references are feed rates/movement rates\n\nE references are for the extruder, referencing the amount and speed to eject filament, negative e-values are retraction commands\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5447,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ar2015,3.267423727073639,5.178570062559029,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,E axis vs Z axis,\"When using G1 command in G-code, what is the difference between Z- axis and E- axis?\n\nI see all E, F and Z in\n\nG1 Z0.350 F7800.000\nG1 E-2.00000 F2400.00000\nG92 E0\nG1 X96.753 Y95.367 F7800.000\nG1 E2.00000 F2400.00000\n\n\",mac,\"G-CODE can be confusing as historically it was developed for machining tools rather than FDM printers, and thus:\n\n\nnot all available commands make sense for a 3D printer\nsome of the command do slightly different things than those one may intuitively think they do.\n\n\nTypically, Cartesian printers use 4 \"\"axis\"\": X, Y and Z for moving the printhead in space and E for \"\"extruder\"\". The \"\"extruder axis\"\" is not in fact at all an axis in the geometrical sense of the word: it refers to the amount of filament to be moved into (extruded) or out of (retracted) the printing head. The reason why it is considered an \"\"axis\"\" is that it is used in conjunction with the codes G0 and G1 which are for movement.\n\nConfusingly, the letter E is used for the precision feedrate of lathes but in the 3D printing world we rather use F to that purpose. As a non-native English speaker, I was further confused, because for the longest time I thought \"\"feedrate\"\" was referring to the amount of filament fed to the printing head, while in fact it is the speed at which the printing head moves (in mm/minute).\n\nSo to summarise, your example code \"\"translated\"\" would look like this:\n\nG1 Z0.350 F7800.000 ; move up 350 microns at 7.8 m/min\nG1 E-2.00000 F2400.00000 ; retract 2mm of filament at 2.4 m/min\nG92 E0 ; reset the extruder position\nG1 X96.753 Y95.367 F7800.000 ; move to X,Y (without changing Z) at 7.8 m/min\n\n\nShould you wish to dig deeper into the topic, the RepRap wiki page on gcode is rather comprehensive. Mind that several manufacturers add their own \"\"special codes\"\" to the common ones....\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n5457,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Janjan,2.528907649931287,2.846247604045449,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,\".stl file is \"\"not ready for printing\"\"\",\"I have this .stl file and I sent it to a company for printing, they claimed that the file is not ready for printing and is charging me more money for them to fix the error. What can I do to make the file \"\"ready for printing\"\"\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"\"\"Not ready for printing\"\" isn't a very specific description of a problem. There are countless things that could be wrong with an STL file that could render it unprintable.\n\nAn STL file is basically a collection of triangles in 3D. These triangles need to be manifold/watertight: they need to enclose a volume that represents the object to be printed. For instance, a very simple STL file could contain 4 triangles defining a tetrahedron/pyramid. However, if there is something wrong with the file - for instance, the edges of two triangles might not meet up exactly, then the file is not printable because the triangles, together, no longer enclose a volume.\n\nThere are various free and paid tools out there that automatically attempt to fix your STL file. Depending on how bad your file is, you might be able to use one of these tools to fix it. If you do this, be sure to carefully inspect the result to make sure the tool did what you intended. Examples include MeshLab, Netfabb and various online services (Microsoft 3D tools, MakePrintable).\n\nIf the problems with your file are so bad they can not be fixed automatically, then the only option will be a - potentially - very laborious manual process of fixing the file. This might mean rebuilding the model from scratch. It is not unreasonable that the company would charge you for this.\n\nEven if your model is manifold/watertight, there are other reasons it might not be printable. For instance, the walls might be too thin, or there might be certain features in the model that can not be printed.\n\nYou did not specify the source of your model. Certain pieces of CAD software are more likely to produce unprintable STL files than others, SketchUp is a particularly bad offender. Also, 3D models from games are almost always unprintable. They're designed to look good on screen, but are not designed at all with printability in mind.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5465,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,zack1544,2.1782824847157594,4.442107637629271,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Is it advisable to use additional external fan(s) for printing PLA?,\"I was wondering if adding (an) extra fan(s) (not connected to the printer, but blowing on the print area) could improve the quality of PLA based prints(printing at 210 C). The printer already has a built in fan with a fan shroud that directs air to the hotend, but is it beneficial to add an extra fan in order to get better results on overhangs, fine details, etc, or does extra cooling negatively/not affect print quality? \n\",mac,\"\n The printer already has a built in fan with a fan shroud that directs air to the hotend\n\n\nUnless your printer is defective, it may look like so, but the airflow should really be directed towards the print, not the hot-end. Cooling the hot-end will at best just waste energy, requiring extra heat to keep it hot, at worst affect your print quality negatively.\n\n\n is it beneficial to add an extra fan in order to get better results on overhangs?\n\n\nThe issue with external fans, not connected to the printer, is that you can't properly direct their ariflow, so:\n\n\nyou will direct some of it on the hot-end itself (see above on why that's not good)\nyou will potentially cool your print unevenly, which - depending from how much, how fast, and what type of filament you are using - may warp your prints\n\n\nThat said, depending from a number of factors, including your ability to position the fans appropriately, you may gain some benefit from them (I saw people doing this to help with PETG stringing), but I would recommend instead to upgrade the part fan of your printer (e.g.: larger diameter, higher RPM) and your duct (better focus on the extruded filament), as these upgrades will have no drawbacks and will perform consistently on each part of the print.\n\nFor most common printer, there are printable mods that allow to do both, often available off thingiverse or on dedicated user community forums.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5465,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,zack1544,2.1782824847157594,4.442107637629271,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Is it advisable to use additional external fan(s) for printing PLA?,\"I was wondering if adding (an) extra fan(s) (not connected to the printer, but blowing on the print area) could improve the quality of PLA based prints(printing at 210 C). The printer already has a built in fan with a fan shroud that directs air to the hotend, but is it beneficial to add an extra fan in order to get better results on overhangs, fine details, etc, or does extra cooling negatively/not affect print quality? \n\",TensorVortex,\"Fan blow at hot end is necessary because hotend needs cooling.\n\nFor PLA it will yield better result with a seperate controllable fan direct airflow across the print head, but just like everything with 3D printing, you will need to test out every possible configuration to get the best for your setup.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5468,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Maxwell Omdal,1.0891412423578797,4.156257367177759,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Make smooth curves in GCode,\"I am getting started with GCode, and I don't know all the commands. Is there a way to smooth a path between two points? I wrote a program which makes GCode from a silhouette. Problem is, when it looks at the individual pixels, its path becomes a bit choppy. Is there a command that will make a more natural path. Attached is a close up picture of the path simulation.\n\n\n\",Mick,\"Curves are normally approximated with straight-line segments. However, some firmwares (e.g. Marlin) support arc commands. See:\n\nMarlin: Controlled Arc Move\nRepRap: Controlled Arc Move\n\nNote that the RepRap Wiki is not always accurate in its list of supported commands.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5474,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Coder_fox,2.528907649931287,3.4943961588206536,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,The bottom of the printed objects has waves after replacing the nozzle,\"I had a problem with my nozzle on my homemade printer. The problem was that the nozzle with a 0.4mm diameter wasn't putting out any plastic. I replaced the nozzle with a 0.2mm one and now the bottom of my model is looking like this: \nI tried to change flow,temperatures and speed.\nBut nothing helped it keeps making this waves. At the old 0.4mm nozzle there everything was ok.\n\",TECTEC3 Studios,\"Okay, there are a few potential issues here:\n1: your belts are not tight enough. This will cause your bed to shake during printing, giving you wavy first layers.\n\n2: your filament is bad. If you have an inconsistent filament diameter, thus can lead to inconsistent extrusion rates, and cause a wavy appearance.\n\n3: your nozzle is jammed. The nozzle you bought may have something stuck inside of it, leading to underextrusion, which, in some cases, can lead to a wavy appearance.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5474,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Coder_fox,2.528907649931287,3.4943961588206536,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,The bottom of the printed objects has waves after replacing the nozzle,\"I had a problem with my nozzle on my homemade printer. The problem was that the nozzle with a 0.4mm diameter wasn't putting out any plastic. I replaced the nozzle with a 0.2mm one and now the bottom of my model is looking like this: \nI tried to change flow,temperatures and speed.\nBut nothing helped it keeps making this waves. At the old 0.4mm nozzle there everything was ok.\n\",mac,\"Without more detail is difficult to say with certainty what the root cause of the problem is, but it looks like too much material is being deposited on the bed.\n\nA few things to try/check:\n\n\nMake sure the nozzle is not leaking. If it is, you should see fused plastic coming out from the seal nozzle/hot-end and/or hot-end/heat break and trickling down. This is often the case when the nozzle hasn't been tightened enough, or it has been changed with the hot-end being cold, or if the internal PTFE tube has been dislodged upwards (does not apply to all-metal hot-ends).\nMake sure you changed the appropriate setting for the nozzle diameter. This is not \"\"flow\"\" it is a separate setting. If you haven't, your printer is now extruding ~4 times as much filament as it ought.\nRecalibrate your nozzle height. This should be done at each nozzle change, as each nozzle is slightly different from the other, and it is possible your new nozzle now sits too close to the bed.\n\n\nEDIT: also, the picture is too low-res to be sure, but looking at the skirt, it looks like the extruded plastic comes out in blobs. If it is not due to leakage, then I would suggest to also check that the filament is not slipping through the gears of the extruder. If you have access to a suitable thermometer, you could also check that the hot-end temperature is stable at the level it should.\n\nFinal thought: have you ever succeeded printing with that filament spool? It is unlikely, but it may be for example a defective one, or a mis-labelled one (so your printing temperature may be wrong).\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5481,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jake Faulkner,2.528907649931287,5.081750718045672,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Raft warping (Makerbot Replicator+),\"Quick thing: Please tell me if I misuse any of the terminology\n\nOn a replicator+, I have been printing successfully for a while, when suddenly the raft started to warp. I was doing a bunch of models that covered the whole tray, so I shrunk to just a small area, but It still warped I read up on how to fix, but most covered how to fix warping in the model itself, not the rafting. Some said to lower the temp, would that work? smart extruder at default settings, 215 C. The printer does not have a heated base, nor have I treated it with anything, and I am using it with the stock program (makerbot print). Otherwise, I am using it as it came out of the box.\n\n\n\",TECTEC3 Studios,\"Lowering the raft temp to 200 degrees C should help. You should also apply hairspray and purple gluestick to your entire printed to help with raft adhesion to the bed.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5481,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jake Faulkner,2.528907649931287,5.081750718045672,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Raft warping (Makerbot Replicator+),\"Quick thing: Please tell me if I misuse any of the terminology\n\nOn a replicator+, I have been printing successfully for a while, when suddenly the raft started to warp. I was doing a bunch of models that covered the whole tray, so I shrunk to just a small area, but It still warped I read up on how to fix, but most covered how to fix warping in the model itself, not the rafting. Some said to lower the temp, would that work? smart extruder at default settings, 215 C. The printer does not have a heated base, nor have I treated it with anything, and I am using it with the stock program (makerbot print). Otherwise, I am using it as it came out of the box.\n\n\n\",mac,\"I'm not sure I am reading your post correctly, but if you are doing a batch of small prints, I would recommend to space them enough so as each of them has its own mini-raft, rather than all of them sharing the same large one.\n\nIf you are using cura, you can tweak how much the raft goes past the footprint of the part. Unless you are printing very small parts, you don't need that to be a lot.\n\nIn general, you should think to a raft as a print in and by itself: the larger it is, the more prone to warping, although the way filament is layered with gaps makes the raft bend and warp a lot less than a regular print of the same size.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n5483,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dave G,2.8153892694839717,5.143335614527151,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Anet A8 mainboard dimensions and hole offsets,\"I'm trying to get a clean set of measurements of the Anet A8 mainboard and determine the exact positioning of the holes in both the board and frame.\n\nThe frame and the board are cut to accommodate an M3 bolt.\n\nHere are the measurements I have currently:\n\nMainboard\n\n\nOverall Width 100 mm\nOverall Height 95 mm\n\n\nFrame (main board holes)\n\n\nLateral (measured with calipers)\n\n\nHole (3.4 mm) Distance +\nInner edge hole to hole (83.07 mm)\n= ~86.4 mm\n\nVertical ~90 mm (not measured 100 % correctly)\n\n\nI was hoping to just find a PCB layout for this board with the measurements and offsets but have found nothing.\n\nI am attempting to provide a mount adapter frame for a PSU with a 50 mm x 150 mm mounting footprint.\n\",0scar,\"Why don't you download one of the many casings that are found on Thingiverse that house the Anet electronics board and take measurements from those cases.\n\nI measured it from my own casing I designed a while ago:\nHole distances are 86.3 mm and 91.3 mm (center to center)\n\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n6447,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dave G,2.8153892694839717,5.511684625946742,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Split/edit part in FreeCAD?,\"I'm trying to modify some parts on this thing. I'm kind of new to dealing with the modeling aspects of this.\n\nI am attempting to widen the part essentially 3mm. This would involve modifying the chain segments, and the anchor points.\n\nI have already attempted this with 3D Builder and the result was less than stellar. I split the part, cloned off about 3mm of the middle of the X-Chain (including the top & bottom bits). The intent was to break the part, translate one of the halves off 3mm, add back the 3mm into the gap.\n\nWhen I put all the parts back together and merged them in 3D Builder, the resultant model, while visually on screen appeared to be one piece, the slicing proved otherwise.\n\nIs there a way that I can do the above in FreeCAD? I'm learning this so tutorial links would be more than sufficient. But if there is someone who can explain this process to me in FreeCAD that would also be appreciated.\n\",Marco,\"When you want to change an STL file in FreeCAD then this is how I do it. I open the STL file in FreeCAD and select the option in the Part/Component sub-menu: Make a form from mesh (hope that I translated it well. I use the Dutch version). It can take quite some time but when it is finished you have an editable object. Just remove the STL object and do what you want.\n\nWhen you finished then you can perform all actions like if you created it from scratch with FreeCAD.\n\nI am a beginner in 3D design so there might be 'smarter' solutions. When I want 1 special part then I create as many cubes as needed and perform a MINUS action on the solid and a cube. After a while I end up with only the part I need.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n6447,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dave G,2.8153892694839717,5.511684625946742,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Split/edit part in FreeCAD?,\"I'm trying to modify some parts on this thing. I'm kind of new to dealing with the modeling aspects of this.\n\nI am attempting to widen the part essentially 3mm. This would involve modifying the chain segments, and the anchor points.\n\nI have already attempted this with 3D Builder and the result was less than stellar. I split the part, cloned off about 3mm of the middle of the X-Chain (including the top & bottom bits). The intent was to break the part, translate one of the halves off 3mm, add back the 3mm into the gap.\n\nWhen I put all the parts back together and merged them in 3D Builder, the resultant model, while visually on screen appeared to be one piece, the slicing proved otherwise.\n\nIs there a way that I can do the above in FreeCAD? I'm learning this so tutorial links would be more than sufficient. But if there is someone who can explain this process to me in FreeCAD that would also be appreciated.\n\",Dave G,\"I found that the answer provided by @Marco was helpful but not the correct answer I was looking for.\n\nHere is the general approach I used (Based on this).\n\n\nCreate new document\nImport STL file\nSwitch to Part workbench\nSelect imported mesh\nPart -> Create Shape from Mesh (use default tolerance)\nDelete imported mesh\nSelect shape\nPart -> Refine Shape\nDelete \"\"unrefined\"\" shape\nSelect refined shape\nPart -> Convert to Solid\nFollow instructions in link provided.\n\n\nBelow is the list of instructions from #12\n\n\nHave shape loaded\nSwitch to a plane that you would like to cut parallel to. e.g. XZ\nSwitch to Draft workbench\nDraw rectangle around item to cut\nUpgrade using '^' up arrow (blue) in toobar\nAdjust the Placement Angle/Position via the \"\"Data\"\" in the property editor lower left side.\nSwitch to the \"\"Arch\"\" workbench\nDouble click the solid to cut in the 3d view\nCtrl+click the plane you will cut with\nSelect \"\"cut-plane\"\" and choose which side to capture\n\n\nYou will have to play around with the pattern in 12. The idea is to use the same Face created through 12 to cut the part at the same point twice. To create two halves. Take note of the position of the Face created in 12.\n\nIn my case, I was attempting to stretch the part along the Y axis, so I was able to cut the part with an XZ plane (created in 12) and offset with a distance in the Y plane.\n\nAfter performing this \"\"split\"\" I created a cross-section of the at the point of the cut and extruded the cross section 3mm.\n\nAfterward, I was able to use the Edit -> Alignment tool to attach all three parts back together.\n\nOnce attached, I selected all three and performed a \"\"union\"\" operation to make them all whole again, then executed the Part -> Refine shape.\n\nEnd result was that I could make the chain links 3mm wider than the original.\n\nI'm still working on tweaking out the other components that constitute this feature but still this is an interesting exercise.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n5490,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,B.Schoch,3.0576060275493275,3.247326609336232,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Spiky hotend and bed temps,\"I recently rebuilt my A8 printer to have a metal frame and replaced the board with a GT2560 reva+. I'm having problems with the temp readings from both my hotend and hotbed. Using marlin 1.1x and Its possible I have something configured incorrectly. I can get successful prints with good quality but sometimes I get thermal runaway during a print.\n\nBoth cold and at temp (200c) have fairly large temp spikes. I didn't have this problem with my old board. I had much smoother temp curves. I'm using the default PID values for Ultimaker Kp 22.2, Ki 1.08, Kd 144.\n\nI have tried to use PID autotune but get drastically different values every time I run it and using the results gave worse results (sometimes giving a heating error during the autotune). I checked all the wiring and nothing looks frayed or damaged. \n\nFirst pic is cold temps. Second is trying to do a PID tune. Third and fourth are during a print.\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\",Valmond,\"This really looks like a bad connection, so try with your old board to see if the broken connection is on the board, or it's the temp sensor or the wires.\n\nI had exactly this problem with a bad connection from the temp sensor.\n\nIf you didn't break anything, it's the board that's fried / badly connected.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5490,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,B.Schoch,3.0576060275493275,3.247326609336232,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Spiky hotend and bed temps,\"I recently rebuilt my A8 printer to have a metal frame and replaced the board with a GT2560 reva+. I'm having problems with the temp readings from both my hotend and hotbed. Using marlin 1.1x and Its possible I have something configured incorrectly. I can get successful prints with good quality but sometimes I get thermal runaway during a print.\n\nBoth cold and at temp (200c) have fairly large temp spikes. I didn't have this problem with my old board. I had much smoother temp curves. I'm using the default PID values for Ultimaker Kp 22.2, Ki 1.08, Kd 144.\n\nI have tried to use PID autotune but get drastically different values every time I run it and using the results gave worse results (sometimes giving a heating error during the autotune). I checked all the wiring and nothing looks frayed or damaged. \n\nFirst pic is cold temps. Second is trying to do a PID tune. Third and fourth are during a print.\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\",Coder_fox,\"I had a similar problem and there could be three reasons(if the connections are ok):\n\n\nthin wires to the hotend\none of the MOSFETs was fried \nthe termal sensor wasn't good enough insert into the hotend\n\n\nTry to measure the hotend heating element voltage while printing.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n6762,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,B.Schoch,3.0576060275493275,3.912607320579891,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.749318730431847,4.208576161768494,Slicing problem - Slic3r prusa,\"I'm trying to slice this model: https://www.shapeways.com/product/VVNUVZ6JL/dread-warrior?optionId=66361748&li=user-profile\n\n\n\nI'm using a .4mm nozzle and .1mm layer height. When using slic3r some of the layers seem to just not get generated. You can see this on the horns. It also has some weird artifacts on the shield of the model. \n\n\n\nI tried using Cura to slice the same model and while it does a better job for the horns it removes most of the face on the model.\n\n\n\nAre there any slicer settings I can adjust to help fix these artifacts? Is there any other slicer out there that may fix the problems? Is this just a problem of needing to use a smaller nozzle and lower layer height?\n\",amra,\"It's a nozzle size issue. The model contains a lot of details which is really challenging to print with a 0.4 mm nozzle.\n\nA big nozzle is just not able to print such fine details. You should switch to 0.25 mm or 0.15 mm. Just try to set a smaller nozzle in your slicer.\n\nThere is a nice article on Prusa's blog showing the difference in printing details with 0.4mm and 0.25mm: EVERYTHING ABOUT NOZZLES WITH A DIFFERENT DIAMETER, especially chapters Examples of practical use and Printing miniatures.\n\nSee the difference:\n\n\n\n\n\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n8055,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,B.Schoch,2.1782824847157594,4.389229469690946,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"Slic3r top layer issues, small gaps, weird extruder paths\",\"When slicing with Slic3r Prusa edition the top layer of most models turns out pretty bad. There are usually small gaps or weird patterns. This does not happen with Ultimaker Cura, it will have a nice smooth top layer. Is there anything settings wise that I can do in Slic3r to get the same quality of top layer as Ultimaker Cura?\n\n\n\n\n\",DColl,\"To have a very smooth finish on top layer, I usually act on these settings :\n\nin Print Settings :\n\nLayers & Perimeters :\n Horizontal shells : 3 / 3\n\nInfill:\n Infill, Top/bottom fill patterns : Archimedean Chords ;\n\nSpeed:\n .for print moves :\n Top solid infill : 20 (mm/s)\n\nAdvanced:\n Extrusion width, Top solid infill : 0.2 (mm)\n\n\n= This gives very slow movement in a circular way, the small extrusion creates an ironing effect, thus very nice finish.\n\nConsidering your slicer behavior, have you tried changing number of top shelves & Infill type ? \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8055,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,B.Schoch,2.1782824847157594,4.389229469690946,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"Slic3r top layer issues, small gaps, weird extruder paths\",\"When slicing with Slic3r Prusa edition the top layer of most models turns out pretty bad. There are usually small gaps or weird patterns. This does not happen with Ultimaker Cura, it will have a nice smooth top layer. Is there anything settings wise that I can do in Slic3r to get the same quality of top layer as Ultimaker Cura?\n\n\n\n\n\",Kjell,\"Maybe slic3r just has a more realistic rendering, and that is already the complete answer.\nIf you print out the parts, the cura sliced part is not really that smooth. \n\nI was curious about this myself, and printed the same part without optimzing, using curas and slic3r defaults. Indeed the artefacts shown in slic3r show up in both prints.\n\nThe part in the first image was sliced with slic3r (1.42 alpha). \nThe part in the second image was sliced with cura (3.1 as shipped with ubuntu). Additionally to the same diagonal top-left bottom-right effects, which the cura print shows, there are also some strings going from the center to the bottom-left and top-right corners.\n\nI did not optimize anything about the top layer. \n\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5495,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Drammy,2.8153892694839717,4.301998074222566,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Regular over-extrusion..?,\"Can anyone explain to me why I'm getting regular over-extrusion patterns on this extrusion calibration cube?\n\nJust upgraded the extruder from stock to Flexion HT on my Balco Touch (Wanhao i3 plus) and now I'm getting a strange pattern on my prints.\n\nThe photos below show me trying to calibrate the extrusion multiplier after completing the extruder install. The first is with a factor of 1 and the second with an adjusted factor of 0.86 (which I suspect is the reason for the change in pattern?).\n\nI guess this is some kind of mechanical issue causing the over-extrusion? Any ideas?\n\n\n\nNote: during the second print (below) I was playing with the Flexion extruder's Cam set screw hence why it stopped extruding all together. I tried it set tight and loose and other than when really tight and stopping the extrusion there was no real difference in the pattern when extruding.\n\n\n\nHelp..!\n\",mac,\"Mine is a shot in the dark, but the fact the overextrusion is so regular let me think it is due to something rotating going around in cycles.\n\nThe fact that the pattern changes with the flow parameter make me think the culprit is the stepper motor pushing the filament (as different flow means different number of rotations for the same lenght of printed wall).\n\nA possibility could be an irregularity in the cobbed wheel biting it the filament: a longer tooth would push more filament into the hot end, for example.\n\nAnother cause could be a problem in the actual stepper motor, in which a failure in the coils causes it to move to steps instead of one, at some point.\n\nThere are possibly other suspects in firmware settings and stepper dirivers, but that's not the area of 3D printing I am most expert in.\n\nMuch more unlikely, it could be a defect in the filament, but that's easy to test: just swap it for another one!\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n5503,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BL9,2.528907649931287,3.433715357735872,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Has anyone encountered this type of strange print patterns?,\"I am noticing strange print patterns ever since I upgraded to the Prusa multi material print head. The patterns are consistent printing upwards but inconsistent amongst each face. \n\n\n\n\n\nI am using original Prusa PLA filament, and have tried to different extruder temperature settings (200C, 205C, 210C, and 215C) but they all have similar patterns. A different color and roll of Prusa filament is doing the same thing.\n\nAny ideas or suggestions as to what to check next? Thanks for any input!\n\",mac,\"It is always very difficult to debug a printer remotely, but here's my best shot. I may be totally wrong though!\n\nZooming-in your picture seems to show like little bumps (inwards or outwards) that offset the extrusion in the XY plane.\n\n\n\nThe fact the bumps occur on both the X and Y axis, and both inwards and outwards, and that the patterns are not fully regular make me think the problem could be as simple as the new printing head having some play, and some combination of forces waking bumping it momentarily off its intended position.\n\n\n Any ideas or suggestions as to what to check next?\n\n\nCheck for play.\n\nPlay which is due to a static feature (like a loose bolt, a clamp not holding firmly enugh or a cracked heat break) can be usually be detected with the printer switched off, by holding the nozzle between your fingers and shacking it gently.\n\nPlay that is dynamic in nature (for example a roller with an irregular diameter or screwed parts becoming loose only when hot) can be more tricky to detect. The procedure is the same, but tou may have to heat the extruder (and use gloves, doh!) or to repeat it at different positions on the X and Y axis.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5508,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sven Festersen,3.267423727073639,5.404480585704614,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Tuning line width and flow compensation in Cura,\"I'm currently in the process of fine-tuning my cheap CTC i3 clone. I'm using Cura 3.1 for slicing.\n\nAfter calibrating the extruder steps, I wanted to optimize the line width and flow compensation parameters. I am using a 0.4 mm nozzle and therefore set the line width parameter to 0.4 mm in Cura. I then printed a cube with 0% infill, 1 wall line and no top layers (basically an open cube with 4 bottom layers). The wall width I measured on the printed result is 0.52 mm. To correct for the difference I set the flow compensation to 80% and repeated the print. The wall width I got from this was 0.45 mm, which is much better than before. There is only one problem: the parallel lines in the four bottom layers do not touch, so the print is not watertight. Up to now I assumed that Cura would calculate the distance between the lines from the line width setting. So with 0.45 mm lines and line width set to 0.4 mm there should even be some overlap.\n\nWhy am I seeing this effect? Am I getting something fundamentally wrong here?\n\",mac,\"That is very bizarre. Since GCODE describe each movement of the printing head (so, the printer does not get to decide anything in terms of printing strategy, it just executes), I can only see three possibilities that would explain what's going on.\n\nThe print is being scaled up at printer level. This could for example be due to your firmware having your steppers improperly calibrated and moving them too much for a given unit of measure (say you say 1mm, they move 1.5mm instead). This is easy to check: if this is the case, your cube will be scaled up (so - using the example above - if your cube is 10x10x10 it will come out 15x15x15).\n\nYou are printing with a raft. Then there is no problem with your set-up, the first layer(s) of a raft are not solid, but intentionally \"\"grated\"\". Check your settings to verify.\n\nCura is producing the \"\"wrong\"\" gcode. This could be really wrong (as in \"\"you found a bug\"\", in which case you should report it on their github), or just look wrong (as in \"\"you found a weird combination of setting producing that gcode\"\", in which case you should reset the settings to their default and see the problem disappear). Either way, if the gcode is \"\"wrong\"\", you should notice the gaps in the gcode preview mode in Cura.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5508,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sven Festersen,3.267423727073639,5.404480585704614,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Tuning line width and flow compensation in Cura,\"I'm currently in the process of fine-tuning my cheap CTC i3 clone. I'm using Cura 3.1 for slicing.\n\nAfter calibrating the extruder steps, I wanted to optimize the line width and flow compensation parameters. I am using a 0.4 mm nozzle and therefore set the line width parameter to 0.4 mm in Cura. I then printed a cube with 0% infill, 1 wall line and no top layers (basically an open cube with 4 bottom layers). The wall width I measured on the printed result is 0.52 mm. To correct for the difference I set the flow compensation to 80% and repeated the print. The wall width I got from this was 0.45 mm, which is much better than before. There is only one problem: the parallel lines in the four bottom layers do not touch, so the print is not watertight. Up to now I assumed that Cura would calculate the distance between the lines from the line width setting. So with 0.45 mm lines and line width set to 0.4 mm there should even be some overlap.\n\nWhy am I seeing this effect? Am I getting something fundamentally wrong here?\n\",sam,\"its impossible to get a true measure with the calipers because of the bumps from layer lines. the printer/slicer is working on an average of the peaks and troughs but the calipers only measure the peaks. thus after measuring and compensating you told it to under extrude and it did\n\",0.0,0.0\n5511,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jnavero,3.0576060275493275,3.530743348684184,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,3d printer drip problem,\"I have a problem with my 3d printer. When I am printing, the printer seems to drip. \nI am very confused because I never saw this before and I do not know what to do.\n\nI attach a picture of it.\n\nWhy does this happen?\n\nThank you very much for yours ideas.\n\nDATA: \n\n\nPrinter: Anet A8\nMaterial: PLA\nTemperature: 200ºC\n\n\nI Have enable retraction and I tried to disable it without changes...\n\n\n\",mac,\"I have two theories to offer.\n\nIt is really dripping. If this is the case, the likely culprit is a loose part in the hot-end, namely the nozzle/heating block coupling, or the heating block/heat break one. If this is the case, you should be able to see it by visually inspecting the part. The solution in this case is to fully disassemble the parts, clean them thoroughly of any remaining plastic, and reassembling them while hot. This is essential, as parts that are assembled cold have the tendency to come loose when heated (due to thermal expansion).\n\nIt is overextruding, and the nozzle collect and drag around the excessive plastic, until the blob is big enogh to detach and remain on the bed. If this is the case, then you should calibrate your extruder, and the nozzle height.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n6947,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jnavero,1.726248027126092,3.502641775239062,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Anet A8 - SkyNet3D freezes randomly at boot,\"I have a problem with my Anet A8. It is a little strange because it does not always happen.\n\nWhen I turn on my printer, it freezes on boot in the second splash screen. \n\nIf I turn off and turn on several times, the printer works OK.\n\nThe printer firmware is: \n\n\nSKYNET 3D - V2.1 - BASED ON MARLIN RC7-BUGFIX - FOR ANET 3D PRINTERS\n\n\nIt was modified by me but I promise that I did not touch the boot section.\n\nCould the Anet A8 motherboard be dying ? (before this issue it worked perfectly)\n\n\nUpdate 1: \n\n\nI am changing some wires (power supply and hot bed). I think it has improved...\nIn my opinion, I think that is better change all wires...\n\nUpdate 2: Some wires were black :-( (I changed them and the printer run well)\n\n\",0scar,\"The Anet A8 is a low end printer which works better after installing a better (read safer) than stock firmware (stock firmware does not have thermal runaway protection which is considered to be a hazard). It is good that you flashed another firmware that does have thermal runaway protection. \n\nThe electronics of the Anet A8 are also questionable, the stock connectors are not rated for their task and wires could have been of better quality and thickness. \n\nNow that your older SkyNet3D firmware does not boot properly anymore, it would be time to check all the leads, possibly use new wires of proper gauge and flash a new version of a more recent firmware. SkyNet3D has been forked from Marlin Firmware and is no longer maintained as all functionality has been implemented for Anet printers in the Marlin sources.\n\nIf your printer still is giving you problems then when booting, a new set of electronics (e.g. board and steppers) would help out.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n5519,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Marc McKee,2.8153892694839717,5.181396614367993,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,0.7766301205685938,Changing the home position on a Prusa i3 MK2,\"As part of a project with my university, I have developed a new extruder to attach to a Prusa i3 MK2. My problem is that both the nozzle and PINDA probe have moved 17mm forward and 0.5mm to the right. As a result when I try and calibrate the printer it moves to the home position and the PINDA probe is too far out over the heatbed so it doesn't detect the printing surface. What is the simplest method of moving the home position so that the printer can be properly calibrated?\n\nUPDATE:\nI am planning on removing the heatbed and placing spacers that will move the printing surface 17mm forward. This should then prevent the printer losing any printing area and hopefully prevents me having to edit any code. Can anyone see any problems with this I'm overlooking?\n\nThe simplest thing to do would be to move extruder 17mm closer to be the same as the original printer but my deadline is fast approaching and I haven't time for a redesign that large.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Consider the original installation with the orientation of the Pinda probe to the nozzle. Let's say for argument's sake that the Pinda probe is 3 mm to the right and directly in line with the nozzle on the y axis.\n\nIf you examine your new nozzle, I would expect that the relationship of the nozzle to the Pinda probe no longer matches the original spacing.\n\nIf possible, re-design the mount to place the Pinda probe in such a way as to match the original design.\n\nThanks for pointing out my oversight, Mac. If the relative position of the nozzle and pinda probe are as the original, the solution is then in changing the appropriate parameters in the firmware.\n\nI found a reference for someone who had a bit smaller error in home position, but the concept is the same.\n\nThe link above points to information reading thus:\n\n\n In Configuration_Prusa.h:\n \n Code: Select all // Home position\n \n define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0\n \n define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS -2.2\n \n define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0.15\n \n // Travel limits after homing\n \n define X_MAX_POS 250\n \n define X_MIN_POS 0\n \n define Y_MAX_POS 210\n \n define Y_MIN_POS -2.2\n \n define Z_MAX_POS 210\n \n define Z_MIN_POS 0.15\n\n\nit will be necessary to connect the printer via USB to a computer running an Arduino IDE and to load the Prusa specific files for that printer. Edit the noted location, save/write the configuration and test. \n\nI would suggest small adjustments in only one or two parameters at a time, to avoid ambiguity in the cause/result sequence.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5519,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Marc McKee,2.8153892694839717,5.181396614367993,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,0.7766301205685938,Changing the home position on a Prusa i3 MK2,\"As part of a project with my university, I have developed a new extruder to attach to a Prusa i3 MK2. My problem is that both the nozzle and PINDA probe have moved 17mm forward and 0.5mm to the right. As a result when I try and calibrate the printer it moves to the home position and the PINDA probe is too far out over the heatbed so it doesn't detect the printing surface. What is the simplest method of moving the home position so that the printer can be properly calibrated?\n\nUPDATE:\nI am planning on removing the heatbed and placing spacers that will move the printing surface 17mm forward. This should then prevent the printer losing any printing area and hopefully prevents me having to edit any code. Can anyone see any problems with this I'm overlooking?\n\nThe simplest thing to do would be to move extruder 17mm closer to be the same as the original printer but my deadline is fast approaching and I haven't time for a redesign that large.\n\",mac,\"\n What is the simplest method of moving the home position...\n\n\nI think the solution outline by @fred_dot_u is very elegant, so I would go with it.\n\n\n ...so that the printer can be properly calibrated?\n\n\nI'm not sure that will be possible.\n\nBecause the physical lenght of the axis hasn't changed, by moving the nozzle/probe, you have actually reduced their reach in the opposite direction, so the probe may be unable to travel on top of the intended calibration points (the usable printing area has also shrunk, but that's less of a problem).\n\nIf that is the case, I can't think of an easy solution (bar not using the auto-calibration feature altogether).\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5575,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Marc McKee,1.726248027126092,3.5726960728578114,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Z axis Control of Prusa i3,\"I have modified my Prusa i3 MK2 printer so that the existing extruder motor has now been attached to a 5mm lead screw with a 1mm pitch. What is the easiest way to control the extruding of the printer now.\n\nFor example is it possible to change the settings in slic3er at all for the extruder? or would I have to download and edit the marlin firmware?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"The firmware of the printer reads the g-code, in this instance, for z-axis movement. The g-code provides only (primarily) millimeters of movement and direction, along with speed.\n\nThe firmware reads those figures, figuratively speaking, and knows from the values stored in the firmware, how many steps to rotate the motor, in what direction and at what rate.\n\nI suppose if you were a glutton for punishment, you could write some code to convert the existing measurements to ones that are adjusted for the new screw, but that's just crazy. Imagine that your new screw provides for 3.729 times the movement that the old screw did per unit of rotation. You'd have to find all the z-movements in the code and apply that factor to those numbers. I suspect rounding errors might make for a less-than-satisfactory print.\n\nAs you've mentioned in your question about editing the firmware, one may expect that you have an idea what is involved. If not, that may be the topic of another post.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5575,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Marc McKee,1.726248027126092,3.5726960728578114,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Z axis Control of Prusa i3,\"I have modified my Prusa i3 MK2 printer so that the existing extruder motor has now been attached to a 5mm lead screw with a 1mm pitch. What is the easiest way to control the extruding of the printer now.\n\nFor example is it possible to change the settings in slic3er at all for the extruder? or would I have to download and edit the marlin firmware?\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"You can set the 'steps per mm' for the extruder (and the other axes) by sending GCODE to the printer, and store this in the internal memory. Re-flashing the firmware only affects the 'factory reset' configuration of the printer parameters.\n\nTo see how to calibrate your extruder, you're probably best looking for videos since although the process is just a few GCODE commands, the whole process is not easy to understand.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5522,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tmartin,1.726248027126092,3.905820046266461,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Simplify3D and Davinci mini,\"Simplify3D is listing the XYZprinting Davinci mini as a compatible printer for their software. I would never buy such expensive software in combination with this printer if I didn't already think of buying a better printer.\n\nCan anybody confirm compatibility with 'out of the box' configuration and up to date firmware?\n\",Daniel Weith,\"XYZPrinting printers use a .3w file format vs GCode on all opensource printer designs. I have used Simplify3D since the first month I obtained my Da Vinci Pro 3 in 1 which also has WiFi enabled.\n\nSimplify3D does not connect very well to my Da Vinci WiFi so a 25ft ActiveUSB extension makes the connection for uploading and monitoring the progress of the print.\n\nAll the XYZPrinting Da Vinci series are available on the printer configuration wizard if not then sending a request to Simplify3D will obtain a response with the printer configuration file.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5524,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Uko,1.726248027126092,3.530743348684184,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,3D850 stuck in the nozzle,\"I am trying to use a 3D850 PLA filament which is supposed to work without any issues with any PLA printer. As a printer, I use Dagoma NEVA which is supposed to work with any PLA filament. I can print with the filament without any issue, but I encounter a problem when I need to swap the filament. Somehow 3D850 sticks within the nozzle and even when it's heated I have to push really hard with another filament to push the current filament out (usually when the nozzle is heated up I can just easily push a filament inside for it to come out of the nozzle).\n\nIs there any special behavior of 3D850 that may cause it to stick inside of the nozzle?\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"My guess is that particular brand of PLA is changing state inside the nozzle as it cools. Quoting from the manufacturer's page, \n\n\n Materio3D PLA uses the NatureWorks Ingeo 3D850 polymer, specially\n engineered for 3D printing. It is tougher and stronger than standard\n PLA and can be annealed for improved heat resistance and toughness! \n\n\nIf the residual material in the nozzle cools slowly enough (at the end of a print) to anneal, then by design it won't re-melt at the same temperature as the raw filament material. I would recommend changing your gcode so that the extruder hotend is held at temperature after a print completes, and making sure to clear the nozzle with an alternate type of filament before allowing the nozzle to cool. \n\nquoting from another page,\n\n\n To achieve a heat treat on a printed part, submerge in water (or bake\n in oven) at 200F for up to 30 minutes.\n\n\nnotice that's Fahrenheit, well below extruder temperatures. \n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5529,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,douglaslps,2.1782824847157594,3.4471789634270973,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Is there any setting that could allow me to print this overhang without support?,\"I've been asked to print a set of this:\n\n\nhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2200026\n\nI used Slicer with my default settings for my FLSun printer which includes support and 0.2mm layer height and that rail was printed as whole block with some excess which would allow me to remove the support, but that didn't work because the support simply melted with the top part of the rail. \n\nTried again with no support and the first layer of the top part of the rail simply felt because there was nothing there to support it.\n\nIs there any configuration that would allow me to print this bridge overhang correctly? Maybe printing the rail diagonally?!\n\nAny help will be appreciated.\n\",mac,\"First of all a minor correction: the feature you are trying to print is not a bridge (which is an unsupported length of filament between two parts of the print) but rather a overhang (which is an unsupported length of filament supported only at one end).\n\nThe reason why your overhang is impossible to print without support is that slicers create a shell first or - in other words - trace the perimeter of the layer you are printing. This feature, combined with the fact that your overhang is perpendicular to the part it originates from, causes the printer to try to extrude into thin air the perimeter of your rail, like this (the yellow lines are the shell, the red ones the infill):\n\n\n\nIn the image above, also the infill is extruded into thin air, but this is actually something that you can change in most slicers (look for \"\"infill pattern orientation\"\" or something similar).\n\nOne option you have is to tweak the support parameters to make it unobtrusive and easy to remove, like for example this:\n\n\n\n(The above was done in Cura, with infill pattern \"\"lines\"\", spaced 5mm apart and no support interface or other additional structures).\n\nSince your parts won't be subject to a great deal of mechanical stress another solution could be to change their printing orientation. In the following example, the overhangs do actually become bridges and as such should print without problems:\n\n\n\nJust consider it will take considerably longer to print.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n5530,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user10014,3.267423727073639,3.4153416935671306,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Inductive kickback protection?,\"Is there an integrated kickback protection in stepper motor drivers or should I make my own?\nI am afraid the steppers might fry the driver or the arduino when i turn off the power for them.\nI do that by turning off the power supply.\nI haven't had an issue yet but it still bothers me.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Kinda, sort of, but not really. I'll look at the A4988 (datasheet).\n\nThe motor pins are connected by diodes to ground and Vbb (the motor suppply voltage). Essentially, they act as a bridge rectifier making any back EMF or inductive spikes appear (rectified) on Vbb. If you were to suddenly power down the driver this could cause a rather large spike on Vbb.\n\nAccording to the datasheet, there is a 40 V Zener on Vbb which will clamp the voltage to that level. (Another popular stepper driver, the DRV8825, does not appear to have this Zener - always check your datasheet!)\n\nSo, yes, there is inductive kickback protection. However, it only clamps the voltage to 40 V. Depending on the rest of your circuit, this could be quite damaging.\n\nThe datasheet recommends that a 100 μF capacitor be placed on Vbb. If you are driving a typical stepper motor with 2 A and 4 mH coil inductance, the energy stored in the coil is 8 mJ. This energy is only enough to take the capacitor up from 12 V to ~17.5 V, so if you have a large enough capacitor on your stepper driver (as you should!) then you're protected against inductive kickback.\n\nNote that if you move the motors by hand then you can still build up a higher voltage on Vbb. I've heard anecdotes of people who damaged their printers like that.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5530,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user10014,3.267423727073639,3.4153416935671306,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Inductive kickback protection?,\"Is there an integrated kickback protection in stepper motor drivers or should I make my own?\nI am afraid the steppers might fry the driver or the arduino when i turn off the power for them.\nI do that by turning off the power supply.\nI haven't had an issue yet but it still bothers me.\n\",cmm,\"\"\"Inductive kickback\"\" from motor coils is caused by the inductance of the coils and the wiring. It is not some strange effect. Inductance is charged with current, just as capacitance is changed with voltage. Most bipolar motor drivers use an H-bridge on the output. By driving the H-bridge correctly, the driver can continue to provide a path for the motor current when it is no longer applying voltage, such as by connecting both wires of a motor to ground.\n\nAlthough some may find it counter-intuitive, connecting the Vmot side of the motor to Gmot, while the other side remains at Gmot, keeps current flowing in the coil more smoothly and with lower losses. The voltage across the motor coil is near zero, so there is little voltage trying to change the motor current. If the coil is undriven and subject to the clamping diodes, the voltage across the motor will me much higher, and the current will stop faster. \n\nThe higher ripple current in the motor increases the coil heating, may increase audible noise, and decreases the efficiency of the drive.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5535,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,1QuickQuestion,3.0576060275493275,4.506485599151931,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Proper way to power down a FDM printer,\"I just got my first 3D printer today, QIDI X-ONE[2], and so far so good with the setup and getting my 1st print. I wanted to power off the printer, but I don't see any instructions on how to properly power off the machine.\n\nDoes anyone know how long I should wait, or what the minimum temperature would be safe to power down the machine? \n\",mac,\"[TL:DR] - If you can comfortably hold the nozzle with your fingers, you are good to go\n\n\n\nIn order to understand how long one should wait, it is important to understand why one has to wait.\n\nAll modern consumer-grade FDM printers have their printing head made of two assemblies: the cold end, where the extruder stepper motor is located and the filament must be in solid state, and the hot end, where the filament is actually melted and pushed through the nozzle.\n\nBetween the two there is a thin-walled length of pipe called heat break, whose purpose is to keep the two separate and make difficult for heat to reach the cold end by conduction.\n\nHowever, the heat break is not \"\"watertight\"\", and heat also transmits via the convecting motion of air and IR radiation, so the cold end is actively cooled (most commonly with a fan).\n\nThe reason you want to wait before switching off the printer is that you want to keep that fan spinning until there is no chance for the heat to creep up and melt the filament in the cold end.\n\nIf the filament were to melt in the cold end, the extruder would clog and you would probably need to disassemble it.\n\nIn order to make sure the cooling happens, you have to make sure that your G-code tells the printer to stop heating the nozzle, after the print is done.\n\nAll slicers that I know of have a specific configuration setting called \"\"end G-code\"\" or something similar where you can manually insert the code you want to execute at the end of each print. The part relevant to your question could look like this:\n\nM104 S0 ; turn off heating block\n\n\nIf you want to get fancy and your hardware has a beeper you may also try:\n\nM109 S60 ; wait for nozzle temp to drop to 60 °C\nM300 S300 P1000 ; make a beep sound\n\n\nTypically \"\"end G-code\"\" has other stuff too (move the head out of the way, switch off the heated bed, disable the idle hold of the steppers...)\n\nJust make sure to move the nozzle away from the printer as your first action: you don't want the hot nozzle to linger idle above the print and ruin its top layer!\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n5535,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,1QuickQuestion,3.0576060275493275,4.506485599151931,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Proper way to power down a FDM printer,\"I just got my first 3D printer today, QIDI X-ONE[2], and so far so good with the setup and getting my 1st print. I wanted to power off the printer, but I don't see any instructions on how to properly power off the machine.\n\nDoes anyone know how long I should wait, or what the minimum temperature would be safe to power down the machine? \n\",Jupp3,\"According to the M109 G-code the documentation, the printer will wait to reach temperature given with S only when heating. With R, the printer will wait also when cooling down.\n\nSo if the answer of mac fails to work, try:\n\nM109 R60 ; wait for nozzle temp to drop to 60 °C\n\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n5802,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,1QuickQuestion,2.1782824847157594,3.11657263068942,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,QIDI x-one2 : Fan screws not holding filament feeder stepper motor in place,\"I noticed a knocking noise one day on my QIDI and things seemed fine at first glance, then 7 hours later my print only had 3 layers. So I figured it was a jam, and I cleaned it out but every now and then I heard the knock again which cause incomplete prints. When I went back to remove the front facing cooling fan I noticed one of the screws that go through the fan to the stepper motor wasn't secure. This was causing the filament guide to rock out of place periodically until it got worse and worse.\n\nI've been trying for hours but the screw just won't \"\"catch\"\" on the stepper motor that feeds the filament into the extruder. The screws aren't stripped because I can take the motor off and screw them directly into it with no problem. It's as if they aren't long enough anymore or that they're bent. \n\nHas anyone else had this problem & found a solution that works consistently?\n\",ColeC1821,\"I just had this same problem and my solution was to push the motor as close as I could up to where the screw goes, because they weren’t lined up. I hope that helped.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n5544,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,John Paul Schreiner,2.528907649931287,4.6041054880455565,1.7539669625835614,5.646830619998737,2.746326330407206,2.306096197889172,STL to STP CAD Conversion,\"Does anyone know of a good way to convert a 3D print file, like STL, to STEP - a useable file format for plastic injection molding companies? \n\nI have tried to convert the files through a couple of programs without success. The most requested file is a STP or STEP file. If there’s no easy way to convert it, which I don’t think there is, does anyone know someone good at re-creating CAD files?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"I've been able to manipulate an STL file using the hobbyist version (free) of Fusion 360. There's a series of steps involved that may require some research and experimentation, at least it did in my case.\n\nOne loads the STL file into Fusion 360 by using Insert, Mesh.\n\nOnce loaded, turn off history.\n\nThe next step is to convert the mesh file to BREP.\n\nIn that form, the surfaces can be edited and the model can be modified if necessary.\n\nI have not exported to STEP, but have confirmed that Fusion 360 supports STEP as a valid export file format.\n\nBoth links provide additional information that may be of value to your project.\n\nConsider also to double check your STL file to ensure it is manifold. Meshmixer is useful for such purposes. One model imported into Fusion 360 had entire faces removed due to a manifold error in the original model.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5544,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,John Paul Schreiner,2.528907649931287,4.6041054880455565,1.7539669625835614,5.646830619998737,2.746326330407206,2.306096197889172,STL to STP CAD Conversion,\"Does anyone know of a good way to convert a 3D print file, like STL, to STEP - a useable file format for plastic injection molding companies? \n\nI have tried to convert the files through a couple of programs without success. The most requested file is a STP or STEP file. If there’s no easy way to convert it, which I don’t think there is, does anyone know someone good at re-creating CAD files?\n\",BrunoCL88,\"Converting mesh files to solid formats is a complex task.\nWhile converting files from mesh to solid you should look for accuracy, number of patches, nurbs pattern, file size and many other variables that should be taken in consideration based on the use you will give for the solid file.\nI have compiled some thoughts as a starting point for your research. Make sure your STL/OBJ/PLY (mesh) file has a decent quality. You can use free software to validate your file such as Meshmixer and MeshLab.\nYou will CONSIDERABLY increase your chances by having a watertight model. If the model does not have a closed mesh, you will most likely have a hard time/fail converting it.\n\nThere are 4 ways to do it:\n\n1 – Using a free software\nThis is a valid solution for a simple shape models.\nThe best tutorials are posted here on GrabCAD.\nHere are some tutorials available on internet:\nhttps://grabcad.com/tutorials/how-do-i-convert-stl-graphics-to-a-solid-model\nConvert STL (or OBJ) Mesh to SOLIDWORKS Model (NURBS)\nHow to convert STL to STEP using FreeCAD\nhttps://blog.bantamtools.com/convert-stl-to-step\n\n2 - Professional software solution\nThis is probably the best solution for companies with a high conversion volume on CAD/CAM demand.\nSome of these companies offer a free software version for students.\nThe best solutions I have found:\n- 3D Systems Geomagic Wrap\n- Fusion 360\n- Power Surfacing (SolidWorks plugin)\n- TransMagic\n\n3 - Hiring a professional freelancer\nThis is the best option for a one-time project, higher chance to get a decent converted file for an affordable price. Try to look for the feedback/customer review before hiring someone.\nI have seen professionals charging as cheap as US$25 per model/conversion.\nYou can check on these options (there are many others):\nhttps://www.upwork.com\nhttps://www.fiverr.com\nhttps://www.freelancer.com\n\n4 - Online conversion platform\nThere are solutions with instant delivery/conversion, and others that take some hours to send you the file. I found solutions varying from free online conversion to pricy service.\nThere are prices as low as US$1 per model/conversion.\nYou may need to do some touch up on the files converted from automated platform before you send it to a CNC or other CAD/CAM machine.\nYou can check on these platforms:\nhttp://cadmesh.com\nhttps://www.convertcadfiles.com/\n\nHave in mind that, the higher is the model complexity (shape) the harder is to convert the model.\nIf trying to convert a 3D scanned model, make sure to have a closed mesh and a high-density mesh definition.\n\nDuring your Google research, you can also use the term “model surfacing”.\n\nGood luck!\n\",0.0,0.0\n5558,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,profesor79,2.1782824847157594,4.986039554937176,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,How to increase bed temperature over 103 degrees,\"I am having problems with my tevo tarantula large bed 12Volt power supply, I am getting the thermal protection message when heating my bed with target temperature set to 115 degrees.\nThe process slows down after reaching 90.\nI changed merlin settings to trigger thermal shutdown after 5minutes/2degrees and added a cover to the printer, so getting now 103 degrees (usually shutdown was at 100/101).\n\nlink to a video showing panel: https://photos.app.goo.gl/jiW9NE7wEB4H0mOy1 \n\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"You need to increase the power of the heated bed. With a given amount of power, there is an upper limit to the maximum temperature you can reach because at a given point losses due to conduction, convection and radiation will balance out the heating power and the temperature will not increase any more.\n\nSometimes, inability of the bed to heat up is due to the supply voltage sagging under load. First, measure the supply voltage with and without the bed turned on. If you find the supply drops significantly when the bed is turned on, you need a new power supply.\n\nOtherwise, you will need to either:\n\n\nGet a new, higher-power heated bed. Make sure that it is compatible with your electronics, or upgrade them as needed.\nIncrease the supply voltage so that the bed you already have will give more power. Some power supplies have a small adjustment potentiometer that lets you adjust the output voltage. Be careful when doing this. Even a small change in voltage gives a big increase in power. For a heated bed with resistance R at voltage U, the power dissipation is U2/R. Going from 12V to 13.5V already gives 26% more power.\n\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n5558,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,profesor79,2.1782824847157594,4.986039554937176,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,How to increase bed temperature over 103 degrees,\"I am having problems with my tevo tarantula large bed 12Volt power supply, I am getting the thermal protection message when heating my bed with target temperature set to 115 degrees.\nThe process slows down after reaching 90.\nI changed merlin settings to trigger thermal shutdown after 5minutes/2degrees and added a cover to the printer, so getting now 103 degrees (usually shutdown was at 100/101).\n\nlink to a video showing panel: https://photos.app.goo.gl/jiW9NE7wEB4H0mOy1 \n\n\",Mikhail Z,\"Some simple steps that may help to reach higher temperature:\n\n\nCheck if you can use heated bed insulation of any kind - the most common approach is to use cork sheet\nProtect heated bed and printer from any possible air movements - arrange a set of walls around printer or just simply put it in the cardboard box large enough\nCover heated bed with cloth or cork sheet until it reaches desired temperature\nReplace wires from heated bed to the power supply with thicker ones (2.mm2 / AWG14 should be fine)\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5610,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,profesor79,2.1782824847157594,3.137850340878127,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Communication is dropping when printing on my Tevo Tarantula,\"I am experiencing communication drops when printing from mp raspberryPI (using octoprint, repetitier server). Moreover when printing from Cura (on Windows), the programs freeze (have to kill the window) and sometimes stops the print job.\nI was changing the serial0 speed in Marlin from 225k to 9600 and still no luck.\nMainboard MKS 1.4 all in one.\n\nplease let me know if you need any more details\n\",profesor79,\"As per long article Marlin firmware it looks like my system is a victim of closed ground loop via USB connection. It is now clear to me that printing from laptop (connected to different socket) was a ground loop separated case and therefore the connection was stable. Connecting my raspberryPi from same socket using long unshielded cable is the main reason of connection drops. \n\nWill try to run raspberryPi with short shielded cable and also will test raspberryPi powered from power bank. \n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5778,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,profesor79,1.726248027126092,4.100425828309956,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,How to determine real printing speed (tarantula/cura)?,\"Recently I noticed that cura always is giving me less printing time than the print itself takes on my tevo tarantula with Marvin firmware.\n\nThe time difference is about 15%, at requested 50mm/s printing speed.\n\nHow could I verify real printing speed?\n\",mac,\"Printing speed is dependent by the firmware and physical properties of your printer.\n\nSlicers typically compute the expected time by assuming the printer will execute exactly what it is instructed to do, but a printer is a real object, with mass and momentum, and stepper motors that have an upper limit for their power output and rotation speed.\n\nSo for example, the GCODE may say \"\"extrude 200mm at 100mm/s\"\" and the slicer will compute that operation as taking 2 seconds. However the printer will need to accelerate and decelerate at the extremes of the movement, and it may even be incapable of reaching speeds over 70mm/s, so the actual operation will likely take 3 seconds or more.\n\nAccelerations and decelerations account for most of the difference between ideal time and real one, and since the number and intensity of those is totally dependent by the GCODE/model being printed, it is not possible to simply multiply the computed time for a given factor (for example 1.15, as your question seems to imply). A large cylinder printed in vase mode will have a printing time much more similar to the computed one that an intricate model with a very complex surface, for example.\n\nIn recent years, slicers that are maintained by a printer manufacturer (cura, slic3r PE) have become better at estimating printing times for their own printers, as the settings of the firmware are accounted for in the actual estimating algorithm.\n\nIf you use Octoprint, you may have noticed that the time estimate octoprint gives improves over time, as octoprint will analyse the GCODE and measure the elapsed time, and will be able to guesstimate the real time with an increasingly degree of accuracy.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n5778,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,profesor79,1.726248027126092,4.100425828309956,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,How to determine real printing speed (tarantula/cura)?,\"Recently I noticed that cura always is giving me less printing time than the print itself takes on my tevo tarantula with Marvin firmware.\n\nThe time difference is about 15%, at requested 50mm/s printing speed.\n\nHow could I verify real printing speed?\n\",Horitsu,\"I use a Anet A8 which has a system acceleration and jerk of 400 and 20 \nWhen i slice with Cura, then I use a gcode without acceleration control, because the printer does this by its own and a combination with the gcode acceleration/jerk control gets me some strange behavior (e.g. sometimes some ultra slow movement in fine detail sections, or random nearly stopped movement) \nBut to get a realistic approximation for the print time, i enable the acceleration/jerk control in cura and then I get a really good result, that is really close to the real values. \n\nAnd to be more specific to your question: It is e.g. 50mm/s >>maximum<< speed you can set, not a exactly and absolut speed.\nIf you know your printer you can also experiment with the following approach: Set the max speed really high, so that the max material volume per time is the limiting factor and set the acceleration and jerk as low as needed for good results. So that your printer will accelerate on long lines as long as it can up to the point it has to deaccelerate for the next corner. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5795,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,profesor79,2.1782824847157594,3.802970230153259,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Can I use Bowden hotend instead of Wade for a direct extrusion?,\"I am planning to buy 4 hotends (e3d clones I assume), but I am wondering if the Bowden (long distance) be able to be used as Wade (direct extruder)?. When the pneumatic fitting is removed there is a very similar filament drive to the throat/heat-brak and the collar size is same as wade.\nAs per attached pictures, I think that could be possible.\n\n\n\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"You can use any of them, however the adaptor will be different to make it fit on your printer. I´m using the J-head on direct drive by removing the pneumatic connector; the distance from top to filament hole is close to 4mm, but does not affect the feeding. If the cylinder hasn't the pneumatic connector is possible to print a cap to mount the connector and make it remote drive\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5819,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,profesor79,1.726248027126092,3.678721662112462,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Lead screw holder - shall I buy metal or just use a printed one?,\"I am on the way to building my own printer using 2020 profiles, TR8 * 500mm lead screw for the Z-axis. Still thinking if that will be a h-bot or coreXY, but this is another story.\n\nAs the printing table shall be mounted in a stable condition I am using this Tevo TornadoCube transformation as a base for the Z-axis. The guys are using metal housing for the lead-screws, but I am wondering if I just print this housing, lead screw mount, from thingiverse and add a 608 bearing - would that be acceptable?\n\n\n\nUpdate:\n\nAs per Oscar's comment, my bed will have a set of linear guides next to the lead screw, for stabilization. \n\nThis is also a nice solution for the Z-axis. In that case, I have same question: Can I print bearing housing and rely on it, or it is better to use metal ones?\n\",0scar,\"Update:\nTo answer your question, you could use either metal ones or printed ones. Metal housings are way more heavy that printed parts. The housing you refer to is not attached to the platform, but a static part connected to the frame. Weight is not an issue, stiffnes, strength and temperature stability should be of higher importance. \n\nFor metal housings attached to the Z platform weight may be an issue (if have many microsteps where the incremental torque may not be enough to raise the Z platform). Printed parts can be made stiff enough to house the linear bearings. In my experience printed bearing housings can be just as effective, I use those on my platform for my CoreXY printer as well as using leadscrew and linear guide rails brackets made of printed parts.\n\n\n\nOld answer, before question update:\nWith platform movement (or printer head Z movement for Prusa designs) you face a few challenges related to the quality of the parts you buy. Note you want smooth operation of the platform (or head) without wobbling. It is customary to add linear rods or rails to guide the platform up and down, this is their sole purpose, therefore these rods need to be very straight and bought from a local trustworthy vendor (the Eastern oversea specimens are usually of less quality as I know from experience). Securing these linear guide rods could be done with printed parts, the plastic is stiff enough to hold the rods in place, and temperatures are usually not that high to play a large role (if so like in boxed up printers, print in high temperature resistance material), personally I use black PETG. \n\nSecondly, the drive of the platform. Note that leadscrews are not perfectly round, nor is the coupling 100% in the center of the screw. From a mechanics point of view you should never constrain the leadscrews at both ends. This results in an over-constrained (indeterminate) system (of forces) that can induce even more problems. Optimally you fix one end close to the stepper, or the drive of the belt), it is arbitrary whether you use a metal or a plastic part for that unless there are constrains on size and thickness for a requested rigidity and leave the opposite side free. For Prusa clones I use lifting parts that house the lead screw nut rather than embedding the nut in the x-y idler coupler (this separates eccentric x-y movement from z movement and a handy advantage is that if something goes wrong in z min direction, the head will not destroy the glass or bed as it is not fixed to the lead screws). Something similar can be done for your platform. For my CoreXY however, I have not done so, it uses 4 linear rails of 12 mm and 2 leadscrews. PETG stepper mounts at the bottom drive the leadscrews using plum, not spring, couplers (the springy types should be avoided or a (\"\"fixate-able\"\") bearing or KFL08 mount should be placed at the other side of the driven side of the coupler and correctly mounted to the frame). Furthermore, I use Delrin or POM anti backlash nuts on a mount connected to the platform. All tall prints I make are perfectly straight, no wavy or wobbly vertical walls.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5848,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,profesor79,3.0576060275493275,3.8339662240819474,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,How to upload firmware to reprap printer?,\"When trying to upload firmware I get the following errors:\n\n\ntimeout - cannot sync, or\nport is in use\n\n\nWhat can be the possible sources of these errors?\n\",profesor79,\"There are mainly three reasons for that:\n\n\nArduino studio settings should be: \n\n\nBoard: Mega 2560 and\nProgrammer: AVR ISP \nand valid COM port, please see below:\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPlease close all slicer's instances (Cura, Slic3r, Repetiter) and host servers and other software that communicate with the printer as they lock the COM port;\nPlease check that the appropriate usb2serial drivers are installed and working - the best way is to start the serial monitor from the Arduino Studio Tools menu and see if there are any. \n\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n5954,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,profesor79,2.528907649931287,3.4199815613998,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,What will be the best way to remove pla from a volcano nozzle?,\"My print popped out from the bed and glued to the nozzle. As the printer was printing next hour or so, a lot of pla was extruded and formed on the nozzle. \n\nI'm wondering what will be the best way to remove pla from the nozzle without overheating wires?\n\na remark: was trying to heat the nozzle over 180, but I am getting a thermal runout. The pla is hard, I don't want to broke the throat.\n\n\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"If you grab the blob with a pliers and twist, all or most of it may pop off. If not, heat the extruder up perhaps 10 degrees higher than usual, and wait for the external gunk to soften up and then pull it off. \n\nedit :\n\nWell, if it won't get hot enough, then try using an external source such as a soldering iron tip to cut off most of the mess, then it may be time for exacto knife blades and small files to remove the remainder. \n\nUnless you're a clean freak :-) a little residue around the nozzle doesn't matter - it won't touch your prints and at some time in the future it'll be \"\"cooked\"\" enough to fall off.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n5954,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,profesor79,2.528907649931287,3.4199815613998,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,What will be the best way to remove pla from a volcano nozzle?,\"My print popped out from the bed and glued to the nozzle. As the printer was printing next hour or so, a lot of pla was extruded and formed on the nozzle. \n\nI'm wondering what will be the best way to remove pla from the nozzle without overheating wires?\n\na remark: was trying to heat the nozzle over 180, but I am getting a thermal runout. The pla is hard, I don't want to broke the throat.\n\n\n\",Horitsu,\"I would suggests to use a heat gun and carefully warm up the PLA to be soft and remove it carefully like a big piece of Play-Doh. \nUsing the extruder to heat up the PLA don't sound like the best idea, for me, because the inner PLA will be fluid and it could be a bigger mess than it is up to now.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6316,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,profesor79,2.528907649931287,4.881869990961263,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Arduino WEMOS and RAMPS,\"I'm thinking of buying an Arduino WEMOS1 as I am tired with SD card fiddling. \n\n\n\nAs the ESP8266 chip has 32 Mb (~4 MB) flash memory, I am hoping to be able to push most of the G-code files over the Wi-Fi. \n\nI was trying OctoPi but, having electronic noise issues, the transmission was not stable. \n\nHas anyone tried WEMOS with RAMPS? Is the serial communication stable between ESP and Arduino? \n\n\n\n1 Product description is Mega +WiFi R3 ATmega2560+ESP8266 (32Mb memory), USB-TTL CH340G. Compatible for Arduino Mega, NodeMCU, WeMos ESP8266\n\",Greenonline,\"After having looked into them, these boards certainly seem to be rather interesting.\n\nThere appear to be two varieties of this board, as I have seen photos with either RobotDyn:\n\n\n\nrear (from Instructables)\n\n\n\nor WeMos logos on them. \n\n\n\nThey may, or may not, be the same. There is also this one, with just a generic \"\"WiFi\"\" logo (from the eBay page below):\n\n\n\nMemory Discrepancies\n\nHowever, there is certainly some discrepancy relating to the specification and amount of memory (unless there are a number of variants - which would certainly be possible):\n\n\n4 MB of Flash is in the ESP8266-12, as Dan states, see ESP8266 SMT Module - ESP-12. But is it the ESP8266-12 in the board, or is it another ESP variant?\nThis WeMos product, on eBay, WeMOS Mega + WiFi R3 ATmega2560 + ESP8266 USB-TTL For Arduino Mega NodeMCU appears to agree with the 32 Mb1 \nThis RobotDyn board, Контроллер RobotDyn Mega 2560 R3 + WiFi ESP8266b, flash память 8Mbit, USB-TTL CH340G, MicroUSB, has 8 Mb apparently. \nHowever the same product page, but in English, upgrades the memory to 32 MB! See MEGA+WiFi R3 ATmega2560+ESP8266, flash 32MB, USB-TTL CH340G, Micro-USB\n\n\nLooking at this article, Instructables - Arduino MEGA 2560 With WiFi Built-in - ESP8266, it isn't exactly the ESP8266-12:\n\n\n In today's text, we discuss an Arduino that I consider extremely special, as it has an ESP8266 embedded in its board. It doesn’t have the ESP12 soldered onto the board. Instead, it has the Espressif chip. So, on the board you have the built-in Tensilica chip with 4MB of memory, along with the ATmega2560, which is the traditional Arduino Mega.\n\n\nSo the ESP has 4 MB, but where does the 32 Mb come in to play?\n\nWell, looking at this RobotDyn memory table (taken from the Instructables page):\n\n\n\nThe 4 MB of the ESP appears to have been immediately contradicted and upgraded to 8 MB! The ATmega2560 somehow has 32 Mb (which seems a bit of a lie - as there isn't an ATmega2560 known to man that has that much memory2), and is confused further by the corresponding text:\n\n\n As we see in the table above, the ATmega has 32MB of memory, not counting the ESP memory. This is wonderful, since the traditional Mega Arduino has only 256kb of memory. \n\n\nSo MB or Mb? Is there an additional flash IC external to the ATmega2560? Looking at the schematic, taken from the Russian RobotDyn page, there doesn't appear to be:\n\n\n\nSo this could be nonsense. Logic would dictate that the ATmega has 256 kB and the ESP has 4 MB... But I could be wrong..?\n\nLinks from Контроллер RobotDyn Mega 2560 R3 + WiFi ESP8266b, flash память 8Mbit, USB-TTL CH340G, MicroUSB:\n\n\nSchematic (PDF)\nPin out (PDF) (JPG)\nMechanics (PDF) (JPG)\n\n\n\n\nReliability of communication\n\nRegardless of the actual spec, to address your question of ESP/Arduino communication reliability:\n\nAs the ESP8266 and the ATmega2560 are on the same board one would assume that the (serial) communication between the two would be faultless. However, some issues have been reported3. \n\nNevertheless, from your question, it seems that you were having issues with the ESP to the OctoPi communication, rather than ESP to Arduino, so maybe this doesn't actually answer your question.\n\nAlso, as to their compatibility with RAMPS, there is very little information available currently, and it would seem to be a case of try-it-and-see. The closest I got was this post on the thread, OnStep and RAMPS1.4, but it seems to be spam. \n\nHowever, it certainly sounds worth a gamble as it would be a nice combination of technologies. However, I would imagine that some modification of the firmware would be necessary.\n\n\n\nUseful Notes\n\n\nFrom post #8 of Mega + WiFi R3 ATmega2560 + ESP8266 (8 Mb mémoire)\n\n\n\n To upload the sketch to the board:\n\n5, 6, 7 ON\nRXD3 - TXD3 \n\n \n To run the sketch:\n\n5 and 6 ON\nRXD3 - TXD3\n\n\n\n\nHere is an excellent manual in Russian\n\n\n\n\nFootnotes\n\n1 From WeMOS Mega + WiFi R3 ATmega2560 + ESP8266 USB-TTL For Arduino Mega NodeMCU\n\n\n WeMOS Mega + WiFi R3 ATmega2560 + ESP8266 USB-TTL For Arduino Mega NodeMCU 　\n \n Features:\n \n \n Full integration on one board: Mega R3 ATmega2560 and WiFi ESP8266 with memory 32Mb (megabyte)\n All of the modules can work together or each separately. And everyone has their own pinout headers\n The convenient solution for the development of new projects requiring Uno and WiFi \n Via USB you can update sketches and firmware for ATmega2560 and for ESP8266. For this on board have the USB-serial converter CH340G\n Use this board is very simple\n The board has DIP-switch, to connect the modules. For example to:\n \n \n USB and ATmeg2560, \n USB and ESP8266, \n ATmega2560 and ESP8266\n \n \n \n Table DIP- Switch:\n\nConnection DIP\n 1 2 3 4 5 6 7\nATmega2560<->ESP8266 ON ON OFF OFF OFF OFF OFF\nUSB <->ATmega2560 OFF OFF ON ON OFF OFF OFF\nUSB<->ESP8266 (Update firmware or sketch) OFF OFF OFF OFF ON ON ON\nUSB<->ESP8266 (communication) OFF OFF OFF OFF ON ON OFF\nAll independent OFF OFF OFF OFF OFF OFF OFF\n\nSpecial solution:\nUSB <->ATmega328<-> ESP8266\nConnection DIP SWITCH 2\n 1 2 3 4 5 6 7\n\nUSB <-> ATmega2560<-> ESP8266 ON ON ON ON OFF OFF OFF To RXD3/TXD3\n\n \n \n USB converter CH340G connect to RX0/TX0 of ATmega2560\n ESP8266 connect to RX3/TX3 of ATmega2560\n \n \n Size: 10.5x5.3cm/4.13x2.09inch\n\n\n2 From the Atmel ATmega640/V-1280/V\n-1281/V-2560/V-2561/V datasheet\n\n\n \n\n\n3 From Mega + WiFi R3 ATmega2560 + ESP8266 (8 Mb mémoire), there do appear to be some issues communicating between the ATmega and the ESP ICs, with a number of users reporting problems. \n\nHowever, a couple of solutions are provided:\n\nSolution 1\n\nFrom post #2\n\n\n \n Set the DIP switch to \"\"special\"\" mode: (1=on, 2=on, 3=on, 4=on, 5=off, 6=off, 7=off, 8=off) see the the description of the\n product.\n Set the switch in RXD3\n Run the below sketch, change the SSID and PASSWORD values. this is just to test that Arduino and ESP8266 are working together. The code\n originated from BISSA ORBOEA in Element14.\n \n \n Code:\n\n#include \"\"ESP8266.h\"\"\n\n#define SSID \"\"YOURSID\"\"\n#define PASSWORD \"\"YOURPASSWORD\"\"\n\nESP8266 wifi(Serial3,115200);\n\nvoid setup() {\n\n\n Serial.begin(9600); \n\n Serial.println(\"\"Restart\"\");\n wifi.restart();\n delay(1000);\n\n Serial.println(\"\"FW Version:\"\");\n Serial.println(wifi.getVersion().c_str());\n\n if (wifi.setOprToStation()) {\n Serial.println(\"\"OprToStation ok\"\"); }\n else {\n Serial.println(\"\"OprToStation err\"\");\n }\n\n if (wifi.joinAP(SSID, PASSWORD)) {\n Serial.println(\"\"Join AP success\"\");\n\n Serial.print(\"\"IP:\"\");\n Serial.println( wifi.getLocalIP().c_str()); \n } else {\n Serial.println(\"\"Join AP failure\"\");\n }\n}\n\n\nvoid loop()\n{\n}\n\n\n\nSolution 2\n\nFrom post #6\n\n\n First you need to write the code for each board according your\n application, but in your code you need to establish a commmincation\n between serial port of Atmega and ESP in both code, again in according\n you application. Finally, put the switches which make the intenal\n interconnection between both. \n \n For example, I made a code for ESP to connect in an Access Point and\n put on a TCP server. When a wireless client is connected in ESP and\n consequently in the TCP Server, all data send by client I redirect to\n the serial port. As serial port of ESP is connected with serial 3 of\n the Atmega, the code in Atmega pass to theat the data from serial 3.\n\n\nSolution 3\n\nFrom post #11\n\n\n Follow this if you have the same to my cases:\n \n \n programm to the ESP(upload sketch) for wifi connection by configure the DIP to 5:on,6:on,7:on and other off.\n program to mega(upload sketch) in case you want to send communication to each other by configure Dip to 3:on,4:on, and other\n off.\n switch two RX0/TX0(in my case I use Serial.print() and Serial.readString() for communicate between Esp and Mega)\n after you already upload sketch to both Modules you can test communication between them by configure DIP to: 1:on,2:on,3:on,4:on.\n and then press Reset Button to restart the boards.\n In ESP you can get the string from Mega by if(Serial.available()) Serial.readString(); and In mega you can get data from ESP by :\n if(Serial.available())Serial.readString(). \n After you got a string so you can split or do anything whatever you want. \n If you want send data to Firebase you must use the Firebase Library at the Esp side, in Mega it not support.\n \n\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n6336,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,profesor79,2.1782824847157594,4.502694022229953,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,\"Cura slicer, enforce Z move before layer change\",\"I am slicing with Cura and Slic3r and one important thing that I recently took my attention is that cura positions head in start point of the new layer and then lifts the nozzle. That caused my few printouts to fall as they collided with the nozzle. \n\nSlic3r behavior is different: it raises the nozzle in last printed point and then moves to a new layer starting point (which for me is more obvious)\n\nIs there a way to instruct Cura to lift nozzle before it goes to the starting point of a new layer? excluding Z-hops.\n\",profesor79,\"OK, after going via all the options I found that CURA has a combing mode which reduces retraction and offers another option which is Avoid Printed Parts When Traveling.\n\nThat solves my problem.\n\",-1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n6336,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,profesor79,2.1782824847157594,4.502694022229953,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,\"Cura slicer, enforce Z move before layer change\",\"I am slicing with Cura and Slic3r and one important thing that I recently took my attention is that cura positions head in start point of the new layer and then lifts the nozzle. That caused my few printouts to fall as they collided with the nozzle. \n\nSlic3r behavior is different: it raises the nozzle in last printed point and then moves to a new layer starting point (which for me is more obvious)\n\nIs there a way to instruct Cura to lift nozzle before it goes to the starting point of a new layer? excluding Z-hops.\n\",0scar,\"To lift the head to prevent the nozzle to tip over your print you could use an option called Z hop in Cura. Just enter `hop' in the search box on the right side to make those options magically appear (in a recent version of Cura, e.g. version 3.x.x).\n\nOther than Z hop there is no default action, or series of commands, per layer to be specified before the start of the layer. There are 2 other ways to circumvent this:\n\n\nThe first is saving you G-code to file and open the file in an advanced text editor (e.g. Notepad++). With a (recorded) macro you can find the words ;LAYER:, which are inserted by Cura before each layer starts, and insert a pre-copied list of commands that set the movement in relative mode, move Z up 2 mm, set into absolute mode again. When the next layer starts the extruder goes to the layer start from a 2 mm rise.\nWrite a plugin for Cura to post-process (C:\\Program Files\\Ultimaker Cura x.x\\plugins\\PostProcessingPlugin\\scripts) the G-code file to inject the code to Z hop before the start of every layer, or a plugin that adds a new option and/or category to the slicer settings sidebar of the GUI.\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5571,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user441767,3.767809650974757,4.020672661736004,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,What's a good way to secure bushings in a 3D printed part?,\"I'd like to secure bushings in 3D printed parts. They would be used for a drilling jig. I've seen heat-set inserts, but they've all had threaded interiors. The best idea I can come up with is printing the plastic hole several thousandths of an inch larger than the bushing and applying a lot of epoxy to the OD of the bearing and inserting it. Is there a better way?\n\nAs an aside, I had a hard time finding proper tags.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"If the outside of the bushing will bond well to the epoxy, your method is simple and likely to be effective.\n\nYou could use the same method used for threaded inserts by roughing the exterior of the bushing, heating it and forcing it into a correctly sized hole printed in the model.\n\nThe threaded inserts are knurled or otherwise textured to provide stronger bond with the melted plastic. Knurling your bushing is more complex than a good epoxy bond.\n\nI've discovered a product called \"\"castable bushings\"\" which would appear to meet the above requirements for heated inserts:\n\n\n\nThe product listing indicates that these are used for drilling jigs.\n\nIt might be less messy but more expensive to purchase and use these as opposed to epoxy and a bit of sanding.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n5641,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user441767,3.0576060275493275,5.520978389171982,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,Does anyone know the thread size (pitch and lead) of the Anet A8's lead screw?,\"I bought a new printer, and unfortunately the left nut for the lead screw isn't tapped.\n\nDoes anyone know the thread size, w.r.t. both pitch and lead, of the lead screws?\n\",mac,\"I don't own the printer, but the intertubes identify it as a \"\"TR8X8 T\"\" (8mm diameter / 8mm offset per revolution).\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5641,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user441767,3.0576060275493275,5.520978389171982,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,Does anyone know the thread size (pitch and lead) of the Anet A8's lead screw?,\"I bought a new printer, and unfortunately the left nut for the lead screw isn't tapped.\n\nDoes anyone know the thread size, w.r.t. both pitch and lead, of the lead screws?\n\",0scar,\"I have the Anet A8, I confirm the threads are Tr8x8(p2). This is explained as \"\"Tr\"\" for trapezoidal thread followed by the nominal diameter in mm. The digits after the \"\"x\"\" denotes the lead of the screw (how much does the nut advance per revolution). The value between the brackets \"\"p2\"\" denotes the pitch. This means that the screw has 8 (lead) / 2 (pitch) = 4 starts.\n\nMore information on threads is found on Wikipedia.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n5865,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user441767,2.1782824847157594,4.538795342543896,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,How can I stop the flare out of the bottom layers?,\"On nearly all of my prints, my first few layers are flared out slightly. I'm using painter's tape for the bed, and the bed temperature is at 60 °C while the extruder is at 205 °C. This seems to happen regardless of print quality settings. \n\nHere's one example below:\n\n\n\nThat extruded rectangle shape is 19.50 x 19.30 mm on the outside on the straight part. On the flared part, it measures 19.92 x 19.70 mm.\n\nIs there a way to fix this? If so, how can I improve it?\n\",0scar,\"The picture is not very clear so this can be related to either:\n\n\nOverextrusion at the bottom layer (slicer setting) or an incorrect bed leveling (bed to nozzle distance too small), or\nthis could be the effect called \"\"elephant foot\"\" that is primarily caused by printers with a heated bed. This issue is related to unbalanced printing parameters: heat bed temperature (too high) in combination with insufficient part cooling.\n\n\nThe general remedy for these problems is to level the bed (e.g. nozzle can be too close to the bed). \"\"Elephant foot\"\" can be reduced by reducing the heat bed temperature, re-positioning the cooling nozzle and/or start cooling at a lower height. Please experiment with the print parameters by printing XYZ 20 mm test cubes till you find the correct settings.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5581,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,emgoe,3.267423727073639,4.714386643082207,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Flat heated bed replacement for uneven bed,\"So the heated bed I got with my anet a8 is not entirely even. The middle of the bed is lower than the outer edges of the bed, which always causes issues with the first layer, especially with a larger print. \n\nI know I could do mesh bed leveling but I don't want to have to do that every time before I print. \n\nSo my question is, where do I find a heated bed that I can be sure of will be even and not have dents anywhere?\n\",markshancock,\"Several things to consider:\n\n\nNothing is perfectly flat. It is flat within a tolerance. The bed you have now is flat to within a tolerance. If you want a flatter bed, you are going to have to specify how flat.\nAs @mac mentioned, aluminum is bendable; so, what once was flat can be made un-flat and the other way around. Note: Your problem may not be your bed, it may be that the bed mounting frame has introduced stress that is bending the bed.\nBecause the heating element is applied to one side of the bed, the differential heating (between the top and the bottom) can cause the bed to bend at temperature; so, flatness could vary with temperature.\n\n\nWhat to purchase:\n\n\nThe Anet A8 has a 220x220 bed. A very popular size. You can get replacements heated beds for as little as $20 from a lot of sources.\nBecause of the considerations above, rather than replacing the bed, you may want to consider attaching a 220mm x 220mm Borosilicate Glass Plate to the top of the bed. These are also readily available (even from Amazon) for less than $20. That is what I did. The glass makes for a very flat surface and a great printing surface. I attach mine with small binder clips. That makes it easy to remove to take the print off or to clean when needed.\n\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n5585,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,megruder79,0.0,3.3964611062631964,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Finding a reputable seller for CR-10S,\"After doing a lot of research, I've decided I want to purchase a Creality CR-10S as my first 3D printer. I'm trying to locate a reputable, local seller. Other than Amazon, which seems to have a bit of a mark-up on price, I'm finding several websites that seem to be located outside of the US. Can anyone direct me to a seller located in the US?\n\",mac,\"I am afraid unless you are available to accept the mark-up, you won't find a reputable seller other than in mainland China. The entire business model of Creality is \"\"cheap-cheap-cheap B2C\"\" and any step you add to the supply chain (like a reseller) will be:\n\n\nAn added cost that will be reflected on the final price you pay\nA reseller-based initiative, meaning that it won't be part of a \"\"creality global distribution network\"\", but the project of that local entreprenour.\n\n\nThat said, I read in a couple of places that tiny machines (Houston, Texas) does a good job by testing each unit prior to shipping, and has similar lead times than good sellers from China (a couple of weeks).\n\nPlease note I am not affiliated with them in any way. For that matters, I don't even leave in North America nor have purchased anything from them.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5585,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,megruder79,0.0,3.3964611062631964,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Finding a reputable seller for CR-10S,\"After doing a lot of research, I've decided I want to purchase a Creality CR-10S as my first 3D printer. I'm trying to locate a reputable, local seller. Other than Amazon, which seems to have a bit of a mark-up on price, I'm finding several websites that seem to be located outside of the US. Can anyone direct me to a seller located in the US?\n\",Dave Corbett,\"I’ve bought two printers (CR-10S and Ender 2)from Tiny Machines in Houston Texas. They unbox them from China and assemble them and make a test print. You get a checklist of the tests performed. They will also flash a bootloader and updated Marlin for $10.\n\nYeah, you’ll pay more but if you spend any time in printer forums you’ll hear lots of complaining about missing/broken parts or DOA units.\n\nThey also stock spare parts here in the US. \n\nGood luck to you!\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5589,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jose Ben,3.0576060275493275,4.199044916790343,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Lead screws - M8 instead of M5?,\"I am building a Prusa i3 MK2S (Dolly). I find it very difficult to find M5 rods for the Z axis, I have an M8 lead screw with 8 mm lead, So I thought since M8 is widely available online I could just use them instead of M5. What do you think about it? What should I keep in mind?\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"You can use the screws and rods you can find easily, of course some dimensions will change and is needed to adjust parameters. \n\nI used in my first 3D printer and standard screw of 9.5mm (3/8) the main problem was the coupling available in Mexico that werer none on that time.\n\nYou can buy the bearings on Ali Express, they can send from there to Mexico, I guess they can deliver on your country. \n\nThe bearings has these sizes:\nwhere is Number ID, inner diameter, outter diameter, width.\n\n608ZZ 8x22x7 \n607ZZ 7x19x6\n6000 10x26x8\n\n\nDon't try to use 6000 :D is a little complicated to reduce the size for a proper coupling if you don't have a lathe. My 3rd Printer will use this kind of thread because is easily to find with no warpage and now I will use a lathe to reduce the coupling area to 8mm or 5mm since I have on hand the couplers.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5589,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jose Ben,3.0576060275493275,4.199044916790343,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Lead screws - M8 instead of M5?,\"I am building a Prusa i3 MK2S (Dolly). I find it very difficult to find M5 rods for the Z axis, I have an M8 lead screw with 8 mm lead, So I thought since M8 is widely available online I could just use them instead of M5. What do you think about it? What should I keep in mind?\n\",profesor79,\"as long as you match the parts that is ok.\nThe m8 rod will give you more stiffness and will be harder to bend.\nAs the result, you will have to calibrate the steps/mm settings in the firmware.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n5623,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jose Ben,3.267423727073639,6.363209816759044,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,\"RAMPS 1.4, 1.5 or 1.6?\",\"I'm about to build a Prusa i3 dolly. I am confused whether to use RAMPS 1.4 or 1.5 or 1.6.\n\nWhat is the big difference? Is it only the MOSFETs and the poly-fuses? If that is the case, would it be advisable to upgrade a RAMPS 1.4 board (replacing the MOSFETs, connectors, and fuses)?\n\",tjb1,\"The biggest issue with RAMPS 1.4 (and 1.5) is the power connector is prone to melting/burning, this appears to be fixed on 1.6 with the use of screw terminal blocks. I've used RAMPS 1.4 with both 12v and 24v power supplies and never have had any issues with the fuses or the power connector but mine have only come from Ultimachine or RepRapDiscount. A RAMPS 1.4 with power connectors and fuses replaced with those from a reputable dealer (Digikey, Newark, Allied) will likely be fine, you can even remove the power connector and solder the wires directly to the board if you don't need the ability to unplug them.\n\nWhichever you go with, make sure the screws are tight and never tin the wires going into the power connectors.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n5623,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jose Ben,3.267423727073639,6.363209816759044,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,\"RAMPS 1.4, 1.5 or 1.6?\",\"I'm about to build a Prusa i3 dolly. I am confused whether to use RAMPS 1.4 or 1.5 or 1.6.\n\nWhat is the big difference? Is it only the MOSFETs and the poly-fuses? If that is the case, would it be advisable to upgrade a RAMPS 1.4 board (replacing the MOSFETs, connectors, and fuses)?\n\",0scar,\"The drawback of RAMPS 1.5 and 1.6 are that they use SMD polyfuses which are a little more difficult to replace (for some people) than the large fuses from the RAMPS 1.4. However, the fuses of the RAMPS 1.4 are sticking out, then tend to bend once in a while when you work on the board and could therefore become prone to metal fatigue and break.\n\n\n\nAdding on top of this answer about cable wiring:\n\nFor these type of connectors:\n\n\nplease use ferrules on the cable ends for wires that transport high loads/currents and use screw terminals:\n\n\n\nFor these type of connectors:\n \n\nplease use y-type or fork connectors:\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5660,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jose Ben,2.1782824847157594,5.47755344843681,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Which proximity sensor to use?,\"I am building a dolly and I am confused as to which proximity sensor to use. \n\nShould I go for M8 or M12 and 5 V or 6-36 V? \n\nWhat should be the best detecting distance? Should it be 2/4/8 mm. Which one should I select?\n\",Matt,\"As always cost will be a factor. I found the M4 sensors to be be just not good enough, they have to be too close, and eventually it's going to catch on your print and damage sensor mounting and/or the hot-end assembly.\n\nThe 8mm range sensors seem like a good distance, but you'll need to decide between a wider, heavier but cheaper model or the think, lighter more expensive model.\n\nIf your goal is to optimise for speed, go the lighter version.\n\nIn terms of sensing accuracy, if your layer height is typically 0.2mm then I don't think there's much point paying for more accuracy.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5660,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jose Ben,2.1782824847157594,5.47755344843681,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Which proximity sensor to use?,\"I am building a dolly and I am confused as to which proximity sensor to use. \n\nShould I go for M8 or M12 and 5 V or 6-36 V? \n\nWhat should be the best detecting distance? Should it be 2/4/8 mm. Which one should I select?\n\",0scar,\"Tomas Sanladerer has produced a nice video on this topic: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=il9bNWn66BY\n\n@ 7:31 you see an overview of the precision of various sensors, including the ones you mention. It appears that the M12-4 and M18-8 sensors are more accurate than the M8-8.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n5595,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,YouAlwaysKnowAWorkingJoe,1.726248027126092,2.6493643560602123,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Hall Sensor Diagnostic,\"I'm looking for some help with an ID3 Glacier Point 3D printer that I currently use. The hall sensors on one end of the X and Y axes have stopped functioning. I need to diagnose and confirm that the hall sensors are faulty before I can replace them (work stipulation.) I'm wondering if anyone can point me in the direction of some diagnostic technique to detect faulty hall sensors? Google hasn't been much of an aid here, unfortunately.\n\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"It's really pretty easy to diagnose a Hall effect sensor. If you plug the sensor into the board (so it has power), then wave a metal object (screwdriver tip should work nicely) very close to the head of the sensor, the light should go on if it's reading. If the light doesn't come on, there's an issue. An issue would most likely be the wiring. You may want to test the same sensor by plugging it into a known good port on your main board. Any of the axis stops should behave the same, but since it's both the x- and y-axis sensors which are not functioning, I'd try attaching them to the z-axis stop.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5596,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,AndreKR,3.618048892289167,5.331496970817147,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.749318730431847,2.531698478710706,Seemingly random lines on the surface,\"I'm getting seemingly random lines scattered across the top surface of my prints:\n\n\n\n\nPrinter: Anycubic i3 mega\nSlicer: Cura 3.2.1\nPrinter chosen in Cura: Prusa i3, Gcode flavor changed to RepRap\nCura Profile: Fine, \"\"Outer before inner walls\"\" enabled\n\nWhat might be the reason?\n\",AndreKR,\"Thanks to the answers of fred_dot_u and Sean Houlihane, I did some more research.\n\nThere are three features involved here:\n\n\nCombing (follow the already printed path when travelling)\nRetraction (pull back the filament while travelling)\nZ-hop (move the nozzle up while travelling)\n\n\nThe relationship between those settings is like this:\n\n\nRetraction is only done when not combing*\nZ-hop is only done when retracting\n\n\nTherefore to lift the nozzle when travelling, one must disable combing and enable retraction and z-hop. This prevents the nozzle from scratching the surface.\n\n* it was deemed unnecessary, but that might change in a future version; there is also a plugin that changes this\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5596,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,AndreKR,3.618048892289167,5.331496970817147,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.749318730431847,2.531698478710706,Seemingly random lines on the surface,\"I'm getting seemingly random lines scattered across the top surface of my prints:\n\n\n\n\nPrinter: Anycubic i3 mega\nSlicer: Cura 3.2.1\nPrinter chosen in Cura: Prusa i3, Gcode flavor changed to RepRap\nCura Profile: Fine, \"\"Outer before inner walls\"\" enabled\n\nWhat might be the reason?\n\",fresh new,\"It seems like the issue may only be that your nozzle has developed a bit of oozing. The g code likes to repeat the same patterns for at least a few layers every time it changes patterns and if it does the same pattern on the top 3-4 layers than by the time it reaches the last layer on the top that pattern will actually be the slightest bit raised above the rest of the layers because of the ooze building up along the same pattern for how many ever layers it followed the same pattern. Your nozzle is than rubbing on that raised pattern when it completes the last layer. This explains the randomness like OP said because the g code may not repeat the same pattern for 3 or more layers at the surface but without reading the gcode it would seemingly be random when and where they occurred. And truthfully if its a small oozing you could reprint this and it could be gone if you changed almost any setting in cura because the g code would be recalculated differently and new patterns would be chosen but so long as the new gcode did not have the same pattern repeat itself on the top 3 or so layers you would not have these raised patterns for the nozzle to rub on when finishing the top last layer. \n\",-2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7931,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,AndreKR,2.1782824847157594,3.724670316116101,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.2576023278269264,What causes burnt corners?,\"Today I was printing some parts and I got these burn marks at the corners:\n\n\n\nThis is the first time I see this on this printer (Anycubic I3 Mega). I was using more or less the same settings (in Cura) as always, although I was using a new roll of PLA from a brand I haven't used before.\n\nI was printing several parts in one job:\n\n\n\nMost of them are somewhat affected:\n\n\n\nPrinting temperature: 200 °C\nBuild Plate Temperature: 60 °C\nPrinting Speed: 60 mm/s\nTravel speed: 200 mm/s\n\n\",0scar,\"In addition to this answer which addresses what is actually the cause (but doesn't explain where the burnt corners come from), I've added some information why this is showing burnt corners.\n\nYou are printing PLA at a too high of a temperature and do not have sufficient print part cooling enabled (either in the slicer or limited by the fan duct design). The higher the temperature the larger the shrinkage of the filament is. When printing overhangs like the slanted models you print, the last deposited layer has less surface contact area with the previous layer and therefore the shrink stresses may overcome the adhering stresses (it is also more easily weakened by the heat input of the last layer). This results in curling up, especially in corners as the heat input comes from two sides. When the corners curl up, the change of hitting the sides of the nozzle increases. When the outside of the nozzle is covered in burnt filament, the curling corners may pick that up. This results as if the corners are actually burnt.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n7931,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,AndreKR,2.1782824847157594,3.724670316116101,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.2576023278269264,What causes burnt corners?,\"Today I was printing some parts and I got these burn marks at the corners:\n\n\n\nThis is the first time I see this on this printer (Anycubic I3 Mega). I was using more or less the same settings (in Cura) as always, although I was using a new roll of PLA from a brand I haven't used before.\n\nI was printing several parts in one job:\n\n\n\nMost of them are somewhat affected:\n\n\n\nPrinting temperature: 200 °C\nBuild Plate Temperature: 60 °C\nPrinting Speed: 60 mm/s\nTravel speed: 200 mm/s\n\n\",Dmitry Kasatsky,\"Looks like overheating and insufficient airflow at the same time.\n\nTry to reduce the temperature of the nozzle by 5-10 °C and increase print part cooling.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n5603,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Eli TheHuman,2.8153892694839717,5.1061882284754905,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.880918201452841,What is the difference between STL and OBJ files and which one should I use?,\"One of the CAD programs I use is called TinkerCAD, which lets you export your design in either STL or OBJ form. What is the difference between these two file types? And which one is better to use?\n\",mac,\"STL is the de facto standard in consumer-grade 3D printing. It is a bare-bone format that describes the shape of the object by defining the coordinates of all the vertices of all triangles that a surface may be subdivided into.\n\nThis means that in STL any curved surface is represented with an approximation of many very small faces.\n\nOBJ is also somewhat common, but it was originally developed for computer graphics, not manufacturing, and as such is capaple to store information like the texture images to be applied to the surface, which are of no use in the 3D printing world.\n\nIn terms of geometry description, OBJ is more capable than STL, as it can describe \"\"real\"\" curves, without the need to approximate them to a series of polygons. The benefit of this feature is however more theoretic than practical, as:\n\n\nmost entry-level CAD software don't make use of that feature and create a STL-equivalent OBJ file (so, still with polygons)\na typical STL model for 3D printing will have enough resolution to give the illusion of perfect curves (the same way a high-res screen gives the illusion of perfect curves, despite its pixels being arranged in a squared matrix),\nthe slicer/printer's firmware may themselves approximate an accurate curve to a series of segments\n\n\nShort said, I would suggest you use STL unless you have a specific reason not to.\n\nIf you would find yourself in need to accurately describe curves I would rather use the STEP file format, as that has been specifically created for manufacturing, rather than \"\"borrowed\"\" from computer graphics.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n5603,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Eli TheHuman,2.8153892694839717,5.1061882284754905,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.880918201452841,What is the difference between STL and OBJ files and which one should I use?,\"One of the CAD programs I use is called TinkerCAD, which lets you export your design in either STL or OBJ form. What is the difference between these two file types? And which one is better to use?\n\",tmartin,\"While the STL-format can only describe your object aproximatively by those well known triangles, OBJ-files can describe parts of your object parametrically by curves. This can lead to a higher precision and be a huge advance with regard to scalability.\nWhich data format to choose depends, as always, on the application and the processes it contains. E.g. if you want to print large objects, you might consider the OBJ-format if your slicer can translate it to usable g-code.\n\nYou might want to read this article on All3DP to get a brief overview.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5604,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kryss,3.0576060275493275,4.5925336056192245,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,How to re-program Prusa firmware to accept a taller Z axis?,\"Machine specs: Prusa MK3, firmware version 3.1.2.\n\nFacts: I have designed a new Z-axis frame for my printer, so I can print models up to 360mm high in stead of the standard 210mm. The plan has worked and the printer is functioning normally with a new, taller z frame. \n\nHowever... To calibrate, the Z lead screws carry the X carriage all the way up and bump it against the top frame mounts, to make sure the X carriage is level. On the taller frame, the X carriage stops its ascent at 220mm and descends back toward the bed. Because the X carriage goes up farther than it was 'supposed to' and didn't bump into anything, the calibration fails. When the X carriage bumps into something at 210mm (like my fingers) and descends from the 'normal' frame height, the printer calibrates the bed levelling normally. \n\nThe Prusa MK3 is so 'smart', it still thinks the frame will only ever be 210mm high. How do I tell it that when calibrating, the X axis must rise to 360mm instead of 210mm? The calibration is an integral part of the firmware... is there any way I can edit it?\nI've looked at the .hex firmware file, this is the first line of a huge text file -> :100000000C947D320C94AE320C94AE320C94AE3221 It means nothing to me, but I'm guessing there's a way. After all, a cap height of 210mm had to be written in there somewhere to begin with... \n\nAny suggestions would be appreciated, \nfairfarren.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"A .hex file is of no use to you, because it consists of compiled firmware which is very difficult to edit. You need to go to Prusa's GitHub and download the source code. Then, find the header file for your model of printer, and change Z_max_pos to the correct value. Finally, you need to compile and upload the firmware to your printer following the build instructions (see README.md). You will need to have the Arduino IDE installed to do this.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n7455,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kryss,1.726248027126092,4.266692819932913,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,How to re-program NEW Prusa MK3 MMU2 to accept taller Z axis,\"In a previous question, I have modified the Z-axis-height of my Prusa Mk3 from 250 mm to 350 mm.\n\nPrior to the MMU2 upgrade, I changed the code in my printer to accept the new height the following way: I changed Arduino → Configuration_prusa.h → Axis settings → line 54 to #define Z_MAX_POS 210 (it worked perfectly). \n\nHowever, the layout is different for the new firmware v. 3.4.1, and I have no idea where the Z axis settings have gone, if they are even still there.\nCan anyone point me in the right direction to find the Z MAX POS settings, please?\n\nObviously, I'm not very good with coding, but it looks like the entire code layout has changed for the v. 3.4.1\n\nFirmware\n\nPrusa MK3 (firmware 3.4.1) MMU2 (firmware 1.0.1). The source code on Github is found here.\n\",0scar,\"Basically, the answer on your previous question is still valid, but your specific questions will be addressed below.\n\nTo answer where the setting has gone by answering:\n\n\n However, the layout is different for the new firmware v. 3.4.1, and I\n have no idea where the Z axis settings have gone, if they are even\n still there. Can anyone point me in the right direction to find the Z\n MAX POS settings, please?\n\n\nTo find where the setting is, you need to go to the source code repository of Prusa firmware (which is based on Marlin firmware) or download the zip file with the sources and use a \"\"grep\"\" search utility to search in files. \n\nThe setting Z_MAX_POS is located in the board configuration file (so in 1_75mm_MK3-EINSy10a-E3Dv6full.h if you have the MK3). This can be found in the online sources (the github page). The online repository is located here. Using the search functionality to search within the source code files on that page you are able to find any setting you need to find. If you type in \"\"Z_MAX_POS\"\" and scroll down till you see\n\n#define Z_MAX_POS 210\n\n\nYou have found what you where looking for if you located the MK3 board.\n\nTo solve your problem by answering:\n\n\n How to re-program NEW Prusa MK3 MMU2 to accept taller Z axis?\n\n\nPrusa development team has got rid of Configuration_prusa.h, you will not find this file in the repository anymore! \n\nInstead, it is you that has to rename one of the board variant files (from the \"\"Firmware/variants\"\" folder) corresponding to the machine you have to \"\"Configuration_prusa.h\"\" and place it in the \"\"Firmware\"\" folder prior to compiling (note that these are simple actions that you can do on any operating system; i.e. copy file, paste file, rename file). Before you compile the sources, you need to change the value of Z_MAX_POS 210 to Z_MAX_POS 350. Please read the README file as this describes exactly in more detail than worded above what you need to do (e.g. use the correct Arduino IDE, e.g. 1.6.9 as this is used by Prusa development team themselves).\n\nQuoting from the README file:\n\nsection describing the renaming of the file:\n\n\n in the subdirectory \"\"Firmware/variants/\"\" select the configuration file\n (.h) corresponding to your printer model, make copy named\n \"\"Configuration_prusa.h\"\" (or make simple renaming) and copy them into\n \"\"Firmware/\"\" directory\n\n\nsection describing the compiling:\n\n\n run \"\"Arduino IDE\"\"; select the file \"\"Firmware.ino\"\" from the\n subdirectory \"\"Firmware/\"\" at the location, where you placed the source\n codes File->Open make the desired code customizations; all changes are\n on your own risk!\n \n select the target board \"\"RAMBo\"\" Tools->Board->RAMBo note: it is not\n possible to use any of the variants \"\"Arduino Mega …\"\", even though it\n is the same MCU\n \n run the compilation Sketch->Verify/Compile\n \n upload the result code into the connected printer Sketch->Upload\n \n or you can also save the output code to the file (in so called\n HEX-format) \"\"Firmware.ino.rambo.hex\"\": Sketch->ExportCompiledBinary and\n then upload it to the printer using the program \"\"FirmwareUpdater\"\"\n note: this file is created in the directory \"\"Firmware/\"\"\n\n\n\n\n\n To compile the sources correctly please take care in using the correct\n software versions and libraries (Arduino IDE 1.6.9, RepRap\n Arduino-compatible Mother Board RAMBo by Ultimachine v. 1.0.1, Arduino\n AVR Boards Built-in by Arduino updated to v.1.6.23)\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSidenote:\n\nA little more in depth for those who are interested to know (and have some programming skills) why you need to change the name of one of the variants configuration files. Basically, Prusa uses different boards with different settings for the different printers they sell. All the settings for these printer variations are stored in the Firmware/variants folder. When you rename the variant file and put it a folder layer higher to Configuration_prusa.h (e.g.Firmware/variants/1_75mm_MK3-EINSy10a-E3Dv6full.htoFirmware/Configuration_prusa.h), these specific printer and board settings are included into the Configuration.h file (line 43 to be precise) by the C-code include statement:\n\n#include \"\"Configuration_prusa.h\"\"\n\n\nThis include statement will basically insert (like copy in memory) the statements from the Configuration_prusa.h file and thus set important constants like:\n\n#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_EINSY_1_0a\n\n\nand many more.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n7455,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kryss,1.726248027126092,4.266692819932913,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,How to re-program NEW Prusa MK3 MMU2 to accept taller Z axis,\"In a previous question, I have modified the Z-axis-height of my Prusa Mk3 from 250 mm to 350 mm.\n\nPrior to the MMU2 upgrade, I changed the code in my printer to accept the new height the following way: I changed Arduino → Configuration_prusa.h → Axis settings → line 54 to #define Z_MAX_POS 210 (it worked perfectly). \n\nHowever, the layout is different for the new firmware v. 3.4.1, and I have no idea where the Z axis settings have gone, if they are even still there.\nCan anyone point me in the right direction to find the Z MAX POS settings, please?\n\nObviously, I'm not very good with coding, but it looks like the entire code layout has changed for the v. 3.4.1\n\nFirmware\n\nPrusa MK3 (firmware 3.4.1) MMU2 (firmware 1.0.1). The source code on Github is found here.\n\",Kryss,\"Latest firmware: Prusa-Firmware-3.5.0\\Prusa-Firmware-3.5.0\nArduino 1.6.9, RepRap Arduino-compatible Mother Board RAMBo by Ultimachine latest version 1.0.1, Arduino AVR Boards Built-in by Arduino latest version v.1.6.23.\n\nCopy the 1_75mm_MK3-EINSy10a-E3Dv6full file from\nPrusa-Firmware-3.5.0\\Prusa-Firmware-3.5.0\\Firmware\\variants into \nPrusa-Firmware-3.5.0\\Prusa-Firmware-3.5.0\\Firmware and rename it Configuration_prusa.h.\nOpen Firmware Arduino file. Configuration_prusa.h shows in the tabs next to Configuration_adv.h. Change //Travel limits after homing #define Z_MAX_POS from 210 to 350. Verify → \nSketch uses 225,482 bytes (87%) of program storage space. Maximum is 258,048 bytes.\nGlobal variables use 6,091 bytes of dynamic memory.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5609,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Scott Saunders,3.267423727073639,5.554083007792422,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Extruder motor does not turn,\"When printing from Cura on my laptop via USB, my extruder motor does not turn to extrude filament. However, when I use the \"\"move axis\"\" command in the firmware (on the little screen on the printer), it seems to work fine, extruding plastic smoothly. The nozzle temperature is where it should be (230 degrees or so for ABS) while printing and I get no error messages in Cura.\n\nWhat would cause the extruder to not function when printing even though it seems to be fine electrically, mechanically, and in firmware? Is there g-code from Cura that could be incorrect?\n\nI'm not sure where to look for problems.\n\nThis is my first 3D printer. It is a Alunar M508 (a Prusa clone) that I got for free in a partially disassembled state. The firmware seemed to be screwed up when I first started using it. The firmware that came on the SD card with the printer would not compile in my Arduino software, so I used a Marlin firmware from here:\nhttps://github.com/camalot/alunar-prusa-i3-marlin-i3-firmware\n\nI had to make one change to the configuration file to reverse the X home direction, but otherwise I have not changed the firmware settings or anything. The new firmware does not recognize the SD card slot at all, but that's a different story.\n\nI'm using Cura to print via USB. The printer is set up as a Prusa I3, using the \"\"Marlin\"\" GCode flavor. Nozzle size: .4mm, Compatible Material diameter: 1.75mm.\n\nStart Gcode:\n\nG21 ;metric values\nG90 ;absolute positioning\nM82 ;set extruder to absolute mode\nM107 ;start with the fan off\nG28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops\nG28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops\nG1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length\nG1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again\nG1 F9000\n;Put printing message on LCD screen\nM117 Printing...\n\n\nEnd Gcode:\n\nM104 S0 ;extruder heater off\nM140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)\nG91 ;relative positioning\nG1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure\nG1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F9000 ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more\nG28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way\nM84 ;steppers off\nG90 ;absolute positioning\n\n\nEdit to Add some Gcode from the beginning of the test print:\n\n;LAYER_COUNT:127\n;LAYER:0\nM107\nG0 F3600 X86.923 Y86.649 Z0.3\n;TYPE:SKIRT\nG1 F1800 X87.522 Y86.134 E0.03941\nG1 X88.17 Y85.683 E0.0788\nG1 X88.861 Y85.299 E0.11824\nG1 X89.586 Y84.987 E0.15762\nG1 X90.339 Y84.75 E0.197\nG1 X91.113 Y84.591 E0.23642\nG1 X91.898 Y84.51 E0.27579\nG1 X92.3 Y84.5 E0.29586\nG1 X117.7 Y84.5 E1.56307\nG1 X118.489 Y84.54 E1.60248\nG1 X119.269 Y84.659 E1.64185\nG1 X120.034 Y84.857 E1.68127\nG1 X120.774 Y85.131 E1.72064\nG1 X121.483 Y85.479 E1.76004\nG1 X122.154 Y85.897 E1.79948\nG1 X122.778 Y86.38 E1.83885\n\n\",Scott Saunders,\"It turns out the problem was a firmware issue. Using the gcode below (from David Lotts in the comments), I was able to determine that the extruder was running backwards. A flag in the firmware reversed it, solving the problem.\n\nM82 ;set extruder to absolute mode \nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length \nG1 F200 E20 ;extrude 20mm of feed stock\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5611,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,AlphaCentauri,2.1782824847157594,4.94794176404796,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Are any 3D printed materials biocompatible (safe for implantation in the human body)?,\"This question is similar:\n\nAre there biocompatible materials available to the general public?\n\nBut appears to be for non-implantation use. This question is for materials intended to be implanted.\n\nAre any typical 3D printed (extrusion based 3D printer) materials, such as ABS or PLA (or slightly more exotic ones, such as kevlar, fibreglass, or carbon fiber), safe for implantation in the human body? Or in medical terms, are they biocompatible (biofunctionality is not topical for this question)? If not, why not? If most of them are safe, then please explain which ones are NOT safe.\n\nHighly relevant, and perhaps even more interesting is: Are there any peer reviewed medical papers that have investigated what materials are safe for implantation in the human body? A paper which answers this unambiguously would be the ideal answer to this question. Another concern is if the process of 3D printing itself adversely influences the properties of the material in the context of implantation applications.\n\nI've tried to determine the answer to this question myself, but I cannot find any papers or studies which answer it. I can easily find that ABS plastic is \"\"non-biodegradable\"\", but I suppose the issue of adverse host responses is more crucial, e.g. causing inflammation or it being a bacterial growth substrate to promote infections seems like plausible concerns. I'm sure there might be other dangerous complications too, which I'm not aware of.\n\nI found a paper dealing with corrosion issues for implantable metals: DOI: 10.1089/end.1997.11.383\n\nI found a paper dealing with silicone-urethane being prone to breakdown: DOI: 10.1021/ma301965y\n\nI found a paper describing the properties and history of ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE), which appears to be commonly used as implants: DOI: 10.1109/EEIC.2005.1566331\n\nBy extension, a 3D printer using UHMWPE might be safe, barring any adverse chemical or mechanical issues as a result of the 3D printing process itself. However, it is not clear to me if any 3D printers can actually reliably print UHMWPE. Furthermore, it is unclear if UHMWPE is a sane choice, as it appears to be useful in applications where strength is required, such as for joints. What about other applications where load bearing properties are not required (e.g. a simple enclosure for implantable electronics)?\n\nI'm aware that titanium appears to be frequently used for implants, and while titanium 3D printers do exist, they are beyond the scope of this question. The valid context is extrusion based 3D printers in the sub $10,000 range (arbitrarily chosen to make the question avoid being tagged as \"\"too broad\"\").\n\",Davo,\"Yes. I have worked with people who have printed implants of PCL, loaded with antibiotics, for delivery at the infection site: https://www.google.com/search?q=pcl+medical+approval\n\nAlso look at PPSU: https://www.google.com/search?q=ppsu+medical+approval\n\nAnd PEEK: https://www.google.com/search?q=peek+medical+approval\n\nThese are currently used for appliances; I'm not aware of them being used for implants yet.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5611,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,AlphaCentauri,2.1782824847157594,4.94794176404796,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Are any 3D printed materials biocompatible (safe for implantation in the human body)?,\"This question is similar:\n\nAre there biocompatible materials available to the general public?\n\nBut appears to be for non-implantation use. This question is for materials intended to be implanted.\n\nAre any typical 3D printed (extrusion based 3D printer) materials, such as ABS or PLA (or slightly more exotic ones, such as kevlar, fibreglass, or carbon fiber), safe for implantation in the human body? Or in medical terms, are they biocompatible (biofunctionality is not topical for this question)? If not, why not? If most of them are safe, then please explain which ones are NOT safe.\n\nHighly relevant, and perhaps even more interesting is: Are there any peer reviewed medical papers that have investigated what materials are safe for implantation in the human body? A paper which answers this unambiguously would be the ideal answer to this question. Another concern is if the process of 3D printing itself adversely influences the properties of the material in the context of implantation applications.\n\nI've tried to determine the answer to this question myself, but I cannot find any papers or studies which answer it. I can easily find that ABS plastic is \"\"non-biodegradable\"\", but I suppose the issue of adverse host responses is more crucial, e.g. causing inflammation or it being a bacterial growth substrate to promote infections seems like plausible concerns. I'm sure there might be other dangerous complications too, which I'm not aware of.\n\nI found a paper dealing with corrosion issues for implantable metals: DOI: 10.1089/end.1997.11.383\n\nI found a paper dealing with silicone-urethane being prone to breakdown: DOI: 10.1021/ma301965y\n\nI found a paper describing the properties and history of ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE), which appears to be commonly used as implants: DOI: 10.1109/EEIC.2005.1566331\n\nBy extension, a 3D printer using UHMWPE might be safe, barring any adverse chemical or mechanical issues as a result of the 3D printing process itself. However, it is not clear to me if any 3D printers can actually reliably print UHMWPE. Furthermore, it is unclear if UHMWPE is a sane choice, as it appears to be useful in applications where strength is required, such as for joints. What about other applications where load bearing properties are not required (e.g. a simple enclosure for implantable electronics)?\n\nI'm aware that titanium appears to be frequently used for implants, and while titanium 3D printers do exist, they are beyond the scope of this question. The valid context is extrusion based 3D printers in the sub $10,000 range (arbitrarily chosen to make the question avoid being tagged as \"\"too broad\"\").\n\",PR90,\"Perhaps more than biocompatible, which generally refers to a material that does not illicit a harmful inflammatory response inside the body, you should be looking at bioresorbable materials, which are materials that dissolve inside the body after a certain time period without needing mechanical removal. \n\nAs an example, FDA approved poly (lactic acid) is available in pellet form from Corbion (formerly PURAC biomaterials) and can be extruded into 1.75mm filament for use with any desktop 3D printer (https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2214860416301385). Similarly, researchers have used poly (caprolactone) to 3D print scaffolds with using a stratasys FDM machine (https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1002/1097-4636(200105)55:2%3C203::AID-JBM1007%3E3.0.CO;2-7).\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5616,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pyro-MO,2.8153892694839717,4.556595510665111,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Anet A8 One Z output only moves down (even on up command),\"I just finished assembly of Anet A8 (Prusa i3 clone). X any Y work fine, both Z motors move down just fine, when homed.\n\nOn Z-stop trigger, right Z moves up, left Z continues to try to move down. When up command is given in Pronterface or RepetierHost, right Z moves up, left Z moves down. Switching cable plugs moves the problem: the down only moves are always on Z-Motor1 output.\n\nI have flashed the firmware with original Anet Omni firmware and problem persists. How else can I test if the problem is hardware- or firmware- related?\n\nI am reluctant to change to different firmware entirely, as I have not yet found out what the problem is.\n\",mac,\"From the data you provided I would postulate that the problem is likely hardware: either with the the general assembly of the motherboard or with the stepper drivers.\n\nThe test you already performed excludes the stepper motors themselves as possible culprits. Common sense suggests that if such a show-stopper bug was present in the original Anet firmware, thousands of users would report it. \n\nStepper motors are usually controlled by two signals (two cables): PULSE and DIR. The PULSE signal controls how many steps the motor needs to perform and the signal itself is normally a PWM or some other form of square wave. The DIR signal controls which direction the motor is supposed to spin (clockwise or counter-clockwise), and the signal itself is just a \"\"high/low\"\" voltage.\n\n\n\nNow, electronics is not exactly my cup of tea, but I would suggest what is happening is that the DIR signal of the broken output is stuck on either the high or low voltage (you can test this easily with a tester).\n\nIf I am right, the likely culprit is either a dry joint (so a joint that does not let electricity pass and keep the DIR signal in its low state), or a short (so a place where voltage at \"\"high\"\" level is allowed to get onto the cable carrying the DIR signal). These kind of problems are typically related to poor soldering of the connectors, or to bridges between the pins of chips. You can visually inspect your board for such problems.\n\nAnother possible culprit is obviously the driver for the stepper motor itself.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5618,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Muhammad Nour,3.0576060275493275,3.5148268665696674,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Cooling fan noise when head is moving in the X axis,\"I have this fan model, it is a SUNON model number MF50151VX-B00U-A99\nand it is a blower type. \n\n\n\nWhen the head is moving in the X-axis it makes noise.\nI think this type of fans is not suitable for rapid movement and rapid changes in directions.\n\nI think the noise is coming from the axial of the fan because I think there is a clearance in the axial for moving up and down.\n\nWhen I put my finger on the fan body(the rotating part) the noise stop! \n\nMy question, What type of fans suitable for rapid movement and rapid direction change? and if this is not the problem what is the problem in my situation?\n\nI have tried searching but I can really find a direct answer!\n\",mac,\"As discussed in the comments...\n\nThe problem with the fan seems to be its flimsy attachment to the printer head. The fact the fan chassis is not firmly kept in place allows for it to act as a soundboard, amplyfing whatever vibration nomally occurs in the motor.\n\nYou could probably get a fan that is more silent in the first place (noctua is a known brand for silent fans, and it is used on the Original Prusa MK3 for example), but since there's nothing inherently wrong with your current fan, I would simply design a custom, more beefy mount for it. For added dampening effect you could also use small o-rings as washers for the screws.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n5632,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nobodie,1.726248027126092,4.5799141106881,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Why does the prusa i3 sometimes put the layer more right or left as they should be?,\"I often tried to print sth in the prusa i3-mk3 but in most time he prints at the middle of the object more right or left. Can someone please tell me why that comes?\n\",mac,\"I'm not sure if I read your question correctly, but if I do, what you are referring to is called \"\"layer shifting\"\" and looks like this:\n\n\n\nThis happens when the stepper motors fail to perform a step upon receiving the signal from the firmware. Since stepper motors do not have any way to know their actual position (differently, for example, than servos) they will keep on printing as if nothing happened, and thus the subsequent layers will be shifted of the amount of steps they missed to perform.\n\nMoving on to why this happens in sth... I don't own a MK3, but I take it that sth is short for stealth mode, the new silent mode that has been widely showcased in reviews and articles on the printer.\n\nThat mode of operation is made possible by the Trinamic TMC2130 stepper drivers. Normally these drivers monitor the power consumption of the steppers and are capable of deduce a missed step by sudden changes in that. If they do, the MK3 will actually re-home the X and Y axis to fix the problem and resume printing normally.\n\nHowever when operating in their StealthChop mode, the TMC drivers provide less energy to the motor themselves (to keep them operating quietly) and - more importantly - are unable to detect missed steps. Less power will make much more likely that any sort of resistance to the print head movement will cause missed steps, the absence of detection will cause the printer to not even notice and cause layer shifting.\n\nAgain, I don't own a MK3 and I have no direct experience with it, but I would suggest updating the firmware to the very last version: I read in an article some weeks ago that a recent version addressed exactly your problem, by progressively increasing the power output along the Z axis (as the likelihood of layer shifting increases with the height of the print).\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5637,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nobodie,2.1782824847157594,3.9952136103058273,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,0.9784382375735183,Prusa i3 MK2 doesn't accept the printing material,\"We have a Prusa i3 MK2 and we've changed for a print with another colour material but when I pressed \"\"load filament\"\", it didn't make anything. \n\nOften after five times doing that the printer works. I don't have any pictures but the filament is in the hole and the printer holds it. However, it doesn't push it into the extruder and the remains of the old filament do not come out, so I wonder why the motors just stop and don't work. \n\nSometimes there are no problems - sometimes more and sometimes less. I hope someone has the reason for this problem.\n\",Coder_fox,\"First make sure that the hotend is hot enough.\nSecond you need to check your extruder if it is clean.\nThird try to push the filament by hand and look if it comes out. If yes than the problem should be in the motor.\nThe motor connection wire could be loose.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5637,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nobodie,2.1782824847157594,3.9952136103058273,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,0.9784382375735183,Prusa i3 MK2 doesn't accept the printing material,\"We have a Prusa i3 MK2 and we've changed for a print with another colour material but when I pressed \"\"load filament\"\", it didn't make anything. \n\nOften after five times doing that the printer works. I don't have any pictures but the filament is in the hole and the printer holds it. However, it doesn't push it into the extruder and the remains of the old filament do not come out, so I wonder why the motors just stop and don't work. \n\nSometimes there are no problems - sometimes more and sometimes less. I hope someone has the reason for this problem.\n\",PR90,\"My 0.02c:\n\n\nCut the tip of the new filament at an angle so that it is pointed enough. This will ensure that it easily enters the hole leading into the hot end beneath the extruder drive gear. A lot of times the curl in the filament (from being wound on a spool) will cause misalignment and lead to it not entering this hole properly.\nCheck filament debris lodged in the extruder gear teeth. Sometimes this will prevent good grip on the filament.\nFinally you can try increasing the nozzle temperature. Often times any residue inside the nozzle will be cleared by elevating temperature and pushing in new filament.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n5638,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Amrith,1.726248027126092,3.866033035411084,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Connect to 3D printer via internet without router,\"My problem:\n\nI need to connect to my 3D printer via the internet from an Android app (using IP address and API key).\n\nMy 3D printer is based on Marlin firmware latest and connected to a Raspberry Pi running OctoPi. I don't want to use a router and port forward it, because the Raspberry will be connected to internet via a Wi-Fi hotspot.\n\nMy question:\n\nIs it possible to control the printer using a cloud platform or a server (another Raspberry Pi) if my OctoPi Raspberry Pi can access the internet? If it is possible, how can one do it?\n\nAny suggestions or solutions are welcome.\n\",profesor79,\"There are a few solutions, but each one needs to match same criteria: an open network socket visible outside the local network.\n\nSo from TCP/IP protocol theory, we don't even need to have an IP address to send a packet to another computer as we can use layer One which is just the MAC address to identify the receiver. But things become more complicated when we have to provide a link to two separate endpoints.\n\nBasic requirements:\n\n\nWe need to know public accessible IP address and port that server is exposed (listening) on\nWe can have a DNS entry that will be translated to public IP, but that assume that public IP is same all the time (or we have a dynDNS service)\n\n\nSolutions:\n\n\nHave the RPi exposed with public IP address and routed properly; \nCreate a VPN bridge from RPi to your home/cloud network and connect Android to the same VPN;\nDo a port forwarding to RPi from public IP and expose that in the firewall.\n\n\nSo at this point, if you don't have admin access to network devices then only solution '2' is viable, IMHO.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5639,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nigel Johnson,1.0891412423578797,4.460550073818482,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Painting an STL file,\"I have an STL file that I want to add a tribal tattoo to with the end goal of getting it printed in colour sandstone from Shapeways, or in full colour on an Mcor Arke at some point, but I'm not really sure where to go. \n\nI've looked at Microsoft Paint 3D. It's ok, but I cannot get the paint job symmetric. It outputs the .3mf format which the Arke will eventually handle with their Orange software, but it won't export into anything Shapeways will accept.\n\nI've looked at UV unwrapping in Blender, but it seems I have to create the image in another graphics program and then import it... but I can't really work out where the images will be applied to the object, and then when I'm done it seems I cannot export the bits I'm expecting. On the plus side I have the mirror function so I can just paint one side and it's symmetrical.\n\nI've looked briefly at Maya and 3Ds Max, but they are eyewateringly expensive, way out of my league.\n\nBlender with some form of layers for the image might be really useful so I can make the tattoo in bits and then apply them to parts. I've kind of seen how you can split the model into panels but my brain is struggling to get round this as it's really quite hit and miss... and exporting seems to be a problem, although DAE and the texture will go to Shapeways, assuming the DAE has the texture layout embedded. FBX seems to go into Paint 3D and then I can export it to 3MF for the Arke.\n\nHas anyone got any helping pointers for this confused noob?\n\nThanks\n\",J'hack le lezard,\"It is indeed more related to the blender forum than the 3d printing one. \n\nYou can start by looking at this post from blender.stackexchange.com which explain how to unwrap and paint on a 3d object. You can also paint the texture on a 2d software like Gimp and then put it in the UV Image editor of Blender. Then you should be able to export your project (with the texture) in a suitable format for 3d print.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n5645,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Riccardo Fagiolo,2.8153892694839717,3.5148268665696674,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,What setting is this defect caused by?,\"I am attempting to print the Benchy boat but every attempt so far has been unsuccessful. The print has a sort of slope/blob on the nose of the boat, which emerges after the first 30 layers.\n\n\n\nHere you can see the front of the boat already arching up:\n\n\n\nI have tried decreasing speed to 40 mm/s but the issue remains.\n\nPrinter: Geetech Prusa I3 Pro B\n\nXY Accelleration: 1000 mm/s2\n\nXY Jerk: 20 mm/s\n\nRetraction Accelleration: 2000 mm/s2\n\nExtruder Jerk: 5 mm/s\n\nPrinting Speed: 50 mm/s\n\nTravel Speed: 120 mm/s\n\nLayer Height: 0.1 mm\n\nInfill: 60% (Lines)\n\nMaterial: PLA, 200 °C, 1.75mm filament, retraction enabled.\n\",Smitje,\"The lines along the length of the boat also appear to be wobbling, can you confirm this? Have you used this material before? The layers should look straight and equal.\n\n\nI have 2 candidates:\nIf the lines indeed wobble it may be over extrusion. The excess material pushing the extruded line over the edge. (check the diameter of the filament with a caliper and adjust the extrusion rate if needed)\n\nOr it can be shrinking. 60% infill is quite high. You could try 20 or 30% (less material and more air => less distortion), or adjusting cooling.\n\nHope it helps, good luck! \n\",0.0,0.0\n5645,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Riccardo Fagiolo,2.8153892694839717,3.5148268665696674,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,What setting is this defect caused by?,\"I am attempting to print the Benchy boat but every attempt so far has been unsuccessful. The print has a sort of slope/blob on the nose of the boat, which emerges after the first 30 layers.\n\n\n\nHere you can see the front of the boat already arching up:\n\n\n\nI have tried decreasing speed to 40 mm/s but the issue remains.\n\nPrinter: Geetech Prusa I3 Pro B\n\nXY Accelleration: 1000 mm/s2\n\nXY Jerk: 20 mm/s\n\nRetraction Accelleration: 2000 mm/s2\n\nExtruder Jerk: 5 mm/s\n\nPrinting Speed: 50 mm/s\n\nTravel Speed: 120 mm/s\n\nLayer Height: 0.1 mm\n\nInfill: 60% (Lines)\n\nMaterial: PLA, 200 °C, 1.75mm filament, retraction enabled.\n\",Killingyou1026,\"Looks like curling from to much being extruded and no cooling I had the same problem added part cooling and problem was gone \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5646,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,OrElse,2.528907649931287,5.034475255410675,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,How should I connect RAMPS 1.4 with an Nema motor?,\"I have an Nema17 stepper motor 17HS4401 and a RAMPS 1.4 driver unit.\n\nThe motor pinouts are:\n\nRED A+\nBLUE A-\nGREEN B+\nBLACK B-\n\n\nwhile the Ramps board has the following:\n\n2B 2A 1A 1B\n\n\nCould someone point me in the right direction? How can I connect the driver to the motor? I have a feeling I already messed things up.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"There are very many combinations that will work. A bipolar stepper has 2 coils. Swapping the coils, or reversing the polarity of a coil, will simply cause the stepper to rotate in the opposite direction.\n\nOn RAMPS, one coil should connect to 1A and 1B, whereas the other coil should connect to 2A and 2B.\n\nOn the stepper, one coil is A+ and A-, the other coil is B+ and B-.\n\nA possible wiring is A+ to 1A, A- to 1B and B+ to 2A and B- to 2B, but there are 15 other possibilities. The only \"\"wrong\"\" way is one that connects a coil of the stepper to two different coil outputs on the RAMPS (so connecting, for instance, A+ to 1A and A- to 2A wouldn't work).\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n6277,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,OrElse,2.528907649931287,5.058942922018944,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,BiLinear bed leveling,\"My G29 command reports\n\n+0.178 +0.281 +0.830\n-0.614 -0.012 +0.371\n-1.208 -0.849 -0.351\n\n\nSo should I tighten up the screw of the bed, close to 0,0 position or loosen it?\n\nI have a feeling that when I loosen it, it gets away from zero and I expect the opposite to happen.\n\nFor bed leveling i use a capacitive probe and after playing around with the screws here is the result\n\n+0.406 +0.127 +0.411\n-0.161 -0.007 -0.041\n-0.572 -0.652 -0.668\n\n\nFinally the leveling process was found here\nBut the question remains. The value -0.572 corresponds close to 0,0 ?\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"An additional suggestion: after levelling with sensors or mechanically as in Oscar's great answer, verify both the level and the Z-zero by printing a single-layer pattern such as a few concentric squares or circles. Inspect to verify that no location is too high (material fails to extrude) or too low (material doesn't adhere, or appears much thicker than elsewhere). \n\nBy doing this you can avoid setting up a multi-hour print only to discover a 'bad corner' or some such. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6277,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,OrElse,2.528907649931287,5.058942922018944,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,BiLinear bed leveling,\"My G29 command reports\n\n+0.178 +0.281 +0.830\n-0.614 -0.012 +0.371\n-1.208 -0.849 -0.351\n\n\nSo should I tighten up the screw of the bed, close to 0,0 position or loosen it?\n\nI have a feeling that when I loosen it, it gets away from zero and I expect the opposite to happen.\n\nFor bed leveling i use a capacitive probe and after playing around with the screws here is the result\n\n+0.406 +0.127 +0.411\n-0.161 -0.007 -0.041\n-0.572 -0.652 -0.668\n\n\nFinally the leveling process was found here\nBut the question remains. The value -0.572 corresponds close to 0,0 ?\n\",0scar,\"Proper leveling using plain \"\"A4\"\" or \"\"Letter\"\" paper is recommended. Level the bed by first homing all axes, then level each corner and at mid-span. In between leveling (by dragging the nozzle head from one to another position, beware of the hot nozzle!) redirect the nozzle to \"\"Z=0\"\" or home Z and instruct the printer to go to \"\"Z=0\"\". \n\nNote that capacitive probe sensors are inaccurate, they tend to be influenced by the humidity of air.\n\nRunning Marlin Firmware and instructing a G29 trough a terminal gives me something in the region of the unity matrix:\n\nRecv: Bed Level Correction Matrix:\nRecv: +0.999994 +0.000000 -0.003585\nRecv: +0.000003 +1.000000 +0.000823\nRecv: +0.003585 -0.000823 +0.999993\n\n\nRunning the command G29 P3 V4 gives:\n\n\n NOTE:\n \n \n P Set the size of the grid that will be probed (P x P points)\n V Set the verbose level (0-4)\n \n\n\nRecv: G29 Auto Bed Leveling\nRecv: Bed X: 25.000 Y: 22.000 Z: 0.138\nRecv: Bed X: 109.000 Y: 22.000 Z: 0.071\nRecv: Bed X: 193.000 Y: 22.000 Z: -0.842\nRecv: Bed X: 193.000 Y: 97.000 Z: -0.427\nRecv: Bed X: 109.000 Y: 97.000 Z: 0.083\nRecv: Bed X: 25.000 Y: 97.000 Z: 0.086\nRecv: Bed X: 25.000 Y: 172.000 Z: 0.004\nRecv: Bed X: 109.000 Y: 172.000 Z: 0.019\nRecv: Bed X: 193.000 Y: 172.000 Z: -0.297\nRecv: Eqn coefficients: a: -0.00356075 b: 0.00080090 d: 2.38097906\nRecv: Mean of sampled points: 2.07054519\nRecv: \nRecv: Bed Height Topography:\nRecv: +--- BACK --+\nRecv: | |\nRecv: L | (+) | R\nRecv: E | | I\nRecv: F | (-) N (+) | G\nRecv: T | | H\nRecv: | (-) | T\nRecv: | |\nRecv: O-- FRONT --+\nRecv: (0,0)\nRecv: 0.13385 0.14866 -0.16731\nRecv: 0.21531 0.21284 -0.29814\nRecv: 0.26715 0.20050 -0.71286\nRecv: \nRecv: Corrected Bed Height vs. Bed Topology:\nRecv: 0.12837 0.44228 0.42541\nRecv: 0.26990 0.56653 0.35465\nRecv: 0.38180 0.61425 0.00000\nRecv: \nRecv: Bed Level Correction Matrix:\nRecv: +0.999994 +0.000000 -0.003561\nRecv: +0.000003 +1.000000 +0.000801\nRecv: +0.003561 -0.000801 +0.999993\n\n\nRunning the command G29 P3 V4 again, but now with my vernier on the bed (opposite to the side of the origin, on the right side of the bed; vernier under probing points 3 and 4), gives:\n\nRecv: G29 Auto Bed Leveling\nRecv: Bed X: 25.000 Y: 22.000 Z: -0.003\nRecv: Bed X: 109.000 Y: 22.000 Z: -0.050\nRecv: Bed X: 193.000 Y: 22.000 Z: **5.709**\nRecv: Bed X: 193.000 Y: 97.000 Z: **5.892**\nRecv: Bed X: 109.000 Y: 97.000 Z: 0.007\nRecv: Bed X: 25.000 Y: 97.000 Z: 0.039\nRecv: Bed X: 25.000 Y: 172.000 Z: -0.023\nRecv: Bed X: 109.000 Y: 172.000 Z: 0.017\nRecv: Bed X: 193.000 Y: 172.000 Z: -0.329\nRecv: Eqn coefficients: a: 0.02233918 b: -0.01331358 d: 2.30744504\nRecv: Mean of sampled points: 3.45099973\nRecv: \nRecv: Bed Height Topography:\nRecv: +--- BACK --+\nRecv: | |\nRecv: L | (+) | R\nRecv: E | | I\nRecv: F | (-) N (+) | G\nRecv: T | | H\nRecv: | (-) | T\nRecv: | |\nRecv: O-- FRONT --+\nRecv: (0,0)\nRecv: -1.27376 -1.23426 -1.57986\nRecv: -1.21205 -1.24414 4.64083\nRecv: -1.25401 -1.30091 4.45816\nRecv: \nRecv: Corrected Bed Height vs. Bed Topology:\nRecv: 4.05814 2.22162 0.00000\nRecv: 3.12192 1.21381 5.22275\nRecv: 2.08203 0.15910 4.04215\nRecv: \nRecv: Bed Level Correction Matrix:\nRecv: +0.999750 +0.000000 +0.022334\nRecv: +0.000297 +0.999911 -0.013306\nRecv: -0.022332 +0.013309 +0.999662\n\n\nFrom the snippets you can see that the topology is printed in the output. You also see the vernier of about 4.5 mm comming back in the matrices. But the 4.5 mm thickness of the vernier is not easily found in the correction matrix!\n\nThe answer to your question is that the origin is in the lower left of the matrix, so you need to loosen the origin screw in the first example (this matrix shows you that the bed is highest at the right-back and lowest at the origin at the left-front). Your second example shows that the whole bed is tilted downwards to the front.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6321,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,OrElse,2.528907649931287,4.631419967805398,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,What do you call this effect in 3D printing and how can I remove it?,\"I have a Bowden extruder in my printer setup. Everything works great except this effect which must be related with retraction and is generated on Z layer change:\n\n \n\nThe model itself, is printed in one layer perimeter / outline shell, with 0.25 mm layer height with the following settings:\n\n\n\",0scar,\"What you see on the outer surface is called \"\"zits and blobs\"\".\n\nThese small imperfections you experience are \"\"zits\"\" (larger ones are referred to as blobs). As the extruder needs to start and stop as it moves around during a print, it is difficult to create a seamless joint, so the over-extruded filament represents the location where the extruder started (or ended) printing a section of the outer perimeter of your print model. Sometimes it returns to the same spot in a single extrusion run, in other cases the perimeter is constructed of multiple sections.\n\nIt is possible to do something to minimize the effects depending on the slicer you use, but the general solution is to prevent too much plastic being deposited at either the start or the end of that seam. E.g. incorrect retraction settings may cause too much plastic to be extruded at the start, and pressure build-up in the nozzle may cause an excess of plastic to be extruded, both lead to the imperfections you experience. First you have to find out which of the two effects is happening with your prints. Once identified, you can play with settings like retraction, priming, and coasting to counteract on these imperfections. A more detailed description can be found here.\n\n\n\nEdit:\nPlease read the addition posted in the comment by @Trish; the comment describes that this may also be related to over-extrusion!\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n6364,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,OrElse,2.1782824847157594,3.7066593323394814,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,How bed leveling is achieved without table screws?,\"I have seen printers with table screws and bed leveling sensor and printers that have only bed leveling sensor (such as Prusa).\n\nSo my question is how does the bed levelling work when there is only a sensor, and no adjustment screws? What will happen if I totally remove the table from the printer and then re-assemble it? Will the print fail or what? \n\",0scar,\"Prusa uses 9 marker points in the bed that are sensed with an induction sensor to determine the X, Y and Z position. Any deviation for skewness or bed level is compensated through the software. Please do note that the bed is pretty level to begin with (by design).\n\nThis is precisely described here, please check the video.\n\nNote that Marlin Firmware (which is basically what drives the Prusa printers) has skewness compensation implemented. This is implemented in the configuration file, and found under header Bed Skew Compensation. You basically print a square and measure the diagonals and insert these measurements into the configuration file. Prusa printers do this automatically by using the measurements of the marker points.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n5649,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user3430483,2.528907649931287,4.3847269673725195,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,MK8 extruder showing 500+ °C on temperature sensor?,\"I just finish building a Graber i3 printer from mixed parts (a MDF clone of Prusa i3 MK2). For the hotend, I've bought the Greetech MK8 extruder. However, the temperature sensor is driving me up the wall.\n\nI've already checked the wires and connections, but the darn thing keeps showing a steady 500 degrees Celsius. In Marlin, it shows it right up (I'm using the 1st option for a 100k thermistor), in Repetier Firmware (using the same one), it shows 0.00°C, until I tell the printer to heat up, when it shoots to 500°C just like before with Marlin. The documentation for this extruder only lists it as a \"\"100K NTC Thermistor\"\", so I tried to select one of the NTC options on the list for both Marlin and Repetier and the temp sensor reads steady 3.600°C!!!\n\nMeasuring it with the multimeter, it shows around 60k, it's 31°C outside.\n\nIs it broken or am I selecting the wrong thermistor type?\n\nDocumentation for MK8\n\",profesor79,\"A brand new thermistor shows about 95-105k ohm (depends on the multimeter quality), so it looks like that one is out of the range.\nTo be sure that it is a thermistor, you could connect a 100k potentiometer, play with it and see readings on the lcd. If the readings are OK, then mainboard is good so replace the thermistor.\n\nA 100k thermistor curve \n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5649,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user3430483,2.528907649931287,4.3847269673725195,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,MK8 extruder showing 500+ °C on temperature sensor?,\"I just finish building a Graber i3 printer from mixed parts (a MDF clone of Prusa i3 MK2). For the hotend, I've bought the Greetech MK8 extruder. However, the temperature sensor is driving me up the wall.\n\nI've already checked the wires and connections, but the darn thing keeps showing a steady 500 degrees Celsius. In Marlin, it shows it right up (I'm using the 1st option for a 100k thermistor), in Repetier Firmware (using the same one), it shows 0.00°C, until I tell the printer to heat up, when it shoots to 500°C just like before with Marlin. The documentation for this extruder only lists it as a \"\"100K NTC Thermistor\"\", so I tried to select one of the NTC options on the list for both Marlin and Repetier and the temp sensor reads steady 3.600°C!!!\n\nMeasuring it with the multimeter, it shows around 60k, it's 31°C outside.\n\nIs it broken or am I selecting the wrong thermistor type?\n\nDocumentation for MK8\n\",Danin,\"If your printer is a cheap one that uses a ribbon cable or other combined cables, verify your thermal sensor's polarity. I know, I know - it's a resistor (in most cases) and that means there's no such thing as polarity. Bear with me - I just helped a friend diagnose his printer (Geeetech, for the record) for showing 500C on one sensor and 'def' on the other, after replacing the mainboard with a different/more capable model. Turns out, they SHARE PINS, which suddenly makes polarity important. Swap the pins in the connector, and it might just work. First time I've run into this. We swapped only the Ext0 sensor and left the bed disconnected - Ext0 read normal, so we swapped both, and everything's been perfect since.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5669,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Julián Pera,2.8153892694839717,3.6755458889710138,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Is possible print this level of detail?,\"I'm new at 3D Printing. I made a model of what I want to print using blender, but it's really small with a little system that must be very precise to work.\n\nWhat I have is like a hollow cylinder with a diameter of 11mm, and a thickness of 1mm. This goes inside a counter part, that is carve with the cylinder shape, but with a little extra gap so it can rotate like an axis. Maybe this picture explains better:\n\n\n\nAnd this should be the front view of the counter part:\n\n\n\nSo, I need to know if it's possible to print that cylinder hard enough to work as an axis. And what should be the gap size between the cylinder and the counter part's hole to rotate properly? If it's is like 0.05mm, can I print that level of detail with a 3D printer too?\n\nWhat hardware and material should I use to do this?\n\nThanks in advance.\nSorry for bad english, I hope you understand!\n\nEDIT:\n\n\n\n(6mm is the depth of the hole)\n\",fred_dot_u,\"It is considered good practice to limit your post to one question at a time. The question about hardware and material is too broad to be a good question and I will set that aside.\n\nEqually unfortunate, your drawing is ambiguous. I suppose if English is not your native language, I'm not helping things either.\n\nThe drawing has some errors that make it challenging to be certain of a correct answer, but I can provide you with some useful information as a direct result of a test print created today.\n\nThe test print for my printer creates a series of spool shapes within retainer shapes. More complex than a simply cylinder making the test that much more difficult.\n\nMy printer is able to print without problem parts that are 1.0 mm apart, 0.8 mm apart and 0.6 mm apart. The test failed at the 0.4 mm spacing and the 0.3 mm spacing, telling me that I need to perform some tuning.\n\nYour question asks about 0.05 mm spacing. I think you will not find an FDM printer that will manage such separation without bonding together the individual components. FDM printers use filament.\n\nYou may also not find that an SLA or DLP printer can provide such tight tolerances. It is the most likely source of a success, however. I have only minimal exposure to tolerance in this type of printer. SLA/DLP printers use lasers/light and liquid resin. They can accomplish 0.05 mm layer thickness, even as small as 0.025 mm layers, but I do not know the figures for horizontal precision/accuracy/tolerance.\n\nSLS printers use a nylon powder and a laser to fuse the powder together to form the model. My SLS printer uses 0.050 mm powder. To accomplish the separation you require would mean a single layer of powder will separate the individual segments of the model. This is not practical for this type of printer.\n\nYour best bet would be to consult with a 3D printing service that uses SLA printers. SLA is likely to be more precise than DLP due to the method of exposing the resin, although that is not a universal truth.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5669,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Julián Pera,2.8153892694839717,3.6755458889710138,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Is possible print this level of detail?,\"I'm new at 3D Printing. I made a model of what I want to print using blender, but it's really small with a little system that must be very precise to work.\n\nWhat I have is like a hollow cylinder with a diameter of 11mm, and a thickness of 1mm. This goes inside a counter part, that is carve with the cylinder shape, but with a little extra gap so it can rotate like an axis. Maybe this picture explains better:\n\n\n\nAnd this should be the front view of the counter part:\n\n\n\nSo, I need to know if it's possible to print that cylinder hard enough to work as an axis. And what should be the gap size between the cylinder and the counter part's hole to rotate properly? If it's is like 0.05mm, can I print that level of detail with a 3D printer too?\n\nWhat hardware and material should I use to do this?\n\nThanks in advance.\nSorry for bad english, I hope you understand!\n\nEDIT:\n\n\n\n(6mm is the depth of the hole)\n\",mac,\"It is definitively possible to do what you want, but your questions are samewhat problematic:\n\n\n So, I need to know if it's possible to print that cylinder hard enough to work as an axis.\n\n\n\"\"hard enough\"\" is a mysterious quantity. What is the intended application? The load of the axis, the rotation speed, the medium in which the part will be in, its operating temperature... they all affect the answer.\n\n\n And what should be the gap size between the cylinder and the counter part's hole to rotate properly?\n\n\nReading at the question and the comments, I think you may have the wrong representation model in your mind. There are four different concepts at work here:\n\n\nAccuracy is the maximum dimensional variation between parts. \nTolerance is the amount of random deviation or variation permitted for a given dimension.\nAllowance is a planned difference between a nominal or reference value and an exact value.\nClearance is the intentional space between two parts.\n\n\nSo: what you want to achieve for the object to rotate is to have at least some clearance once you have the parts printed. Therefore, you want to design your part with an allowance which is at least as much as the accuracy.\n\nNote that a machine cannot produce parts with a tighter tolerance than its accuracy. So you must design your part with a tolerance equal or greater than your printer accuracy.\n\nThe correct number will therefore be entirely dependant from the specific printer you will be using. You can find out the specific accuracy of a printer by printing a tolerance test (I know, I know... why isn't it called \"\"accuracy test\"\"?)\n\nSee this unrelated answer - from wich I took the above definitions - for learning more about the above and a concrete example.\n\n\n If it's is like 0.05mm, can I print that level of detail with a 3D printer too?\n\n\nI hope it is now clear why this question makes no sense: clearance is a variable which depends from accuracy (and the application), not the other way around.\n\n\n I can't add so much gap because I have really limited space\n\n\nThis comment too is incorrect: the \"\"gap\"\" (clearance) can be very very small. You have to have the correct allowance in your design, and allowance will not intrinsically make a part larger.\n\n\n What hardware and material should I use to do this?\n\n\nAgain: this is entirely dependent from your application (load, operating temperature, orientation, speed...)\n\nA consumer-grade FDM printer (easy accessible, cheap and cheap to operate) will allow you to print a rotating part, a SLA/DLP printer (less common, toxic resins, more expensive to operate) will allow to print the same part with different materials and tighter tolerances...\n\n\n I don't worry about breaking, but it cannot be flexible\n\n\nAgain: without an explanaton of the intended use (or the numbers associated to it) it's impossible to answer this comment conclusively. Resins tend to harden to more rigid solids, but you have thrown around tolerances as small as 0.05mm in your writing, and over 12mm of axis, that is a deviation of less than 0.5% from \"\"perfectly straight\"\". I'm hard pressed to think you will find a printable material with such a rigidity.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n5673,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cbrulak,3.267423727073639,4.9784929270268465,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,TEVO Tarantula under extrusion,\"I've built and done some simple tests on a TEVO Tarantula but I've noticed some pretty dramatic under extrusions. \n\nMy equipment:\n\n\nTEVO Tarantula;\nJim Brown's easy config fork of Marlin;\nTitan extruder (came with printer).\n\n\nI've updated the firmware with the 400 steps as advised and calibrated the extrusion with the 100 mm method:\n\n\nWhen I run the calibration with the Titan extruder, only the 400 steps is fine and works as expected;\nWhen I connect the Bowden tube to the hotend and calibrate (at 200, 225 and 250°C), I see only ~50 mm of extrusion. \n\n\nI've disassemble the hot end, changed filament and I can't see any signs of blockage. The Bowden tube in the hotend is not showing any signs of melting etc. and it is pushed all the way down to the hotend, as per the instructions. \n\nSo, what's going with this?\n\",profesor79,\"I did a test on 50cm ptf tube, and according to result I had to increase steps/mm to 440.\nThet tube have a straight connection between extruder and hotend.\n\n\nPlease verify that there is no bends on the the ptf tube as that is huge obstacle to push for extruder \nIf you have a short piece of ptf tube - please calibrate and compare results, \nValidate electrical connections as a very little loose can lead to missed steps\nPut a marks on the plastic gear on titan and observe if there is a smooth movement during extrusion \nPut a marks on the filament in about 5mm and observe how it is consumed \nVery that filament is easily provided from spool, and spool rotates freely \nDo a test on prepared piece of filament to validate previous \nThere is a thing on tingverse that is cleaning filament and oiling it to decrease the inner tube tension, or just put some drops kitchen oil on the filament and in the tube \nReplace stepper motor with one of the axis as there ale all same shiped with tarantula \nIncrease hotend temperature by 5,10, or more \nAdd more tension on the extruder regulator\n\n\nI think I exhausted my check list, as I was struggling a lot with my tarantula, and found it very brittle to use. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5673,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cbrulak,3.267423727073639,4.9784929270268465,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,TEVO Tarantula under extrusion,\"I've built and done some simple tests on a TEVO Tarantula but I've noticed some pretty dramatic under extrusions. \n\nMy equipment:\n\n\nTEVO Tarantula;\nJim Brown's easy config fork of Marlin;\nTitan extruder (came with printer).\n\n\nI've updated the firmware with the 400 steps as advised and calibrated the extrusion with the 100 mm method:\n\n\nWhen I run the calibration with the Titan extruder, only the 400 steps is fine and works as expected;\nWhen I connect the Bowden tube to the hotend and calibrate (at 200, 225 and 250°C), I see only ~50 mm of extrusion. \n\n\nI've disassemble the hot end, changed filament and I can't see any signs of blockage. The Bowden tube in the hotend is not showing any signs of melting etc. and it is pushed all the way down to the hotend, as per the instructions. \n\nSo, what's going with this?\n\",0scar,\"Summarizing for correct understanding: you measured 100 mm without the hotend heated and attached and about 50mm attached and at temperature but not hearing any clicks using a pretty long Bowden tube?\n\nBowden setups require a little more torque to push the filament all the way to the hotend. I've experienced this with my own 2.85 mm setup when I converted a 1.75 mm BullDog extruder to accept 2.85 mm filament. Your problem is most probably caused by filament not being gripped by the extruder gear and causing slipping on the filament (this does not necessarily mean that you hear clicking!). The Titan is a geared extruder so you should get more torque than a direct setup; this is exactly why you don't hear clicking, the gear turns but does not move the filament. Please inspect your filament after the extruder by removing the Bowden tube; ideally this should show you a regular pattern of the extruder gear. \n\nWhat you can do to prevent this is to put more pressure on the filament by adjusting the pressure of the spring. In my setup I use some screws to get the spring out of the equation and clamp it directly only tightening the screws by hand (when switching filament I need to unscrew these). \n\nYou should also PID tune your hotend to be sure that the heater is optimally tuned to keep the hotend at a certain temperature level.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5674,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tomi,3.452496054252184,3.863619001571544,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,1.6229190288168605,Transparent Plastic,\"Is there any commonly printed plastic which I can buy that might be transparent to UV light? \n\nI wish to print a mould, then pour in my plastic which requires a UV light to activate the curing process. \n\",cmm,\"It is easy enough to test materials. First, get a UV flashlight or laser, and find some object that the UV light will make glow. White paper or white cloth will probably work.\nNext, for a material you wish to test, print a \"\"transparent\"\" wall as think as you need.\nShine the light through the transparent wall. If the wall glows, it is interacting so heavily with the UV light that it probably won't transmit UV light. The light will probably be scattered, since \"\"transparent\"\" material is rarely glasslike when printed. If the test object you found in the first step still glows, the wall is transparent enough. If it doesn't, try the next material.\n\nThere are transparent forms of PLA, ABS, PETG, HIPS, and nylon. Probably other materials, too. Try them.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5674,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tomi,3.452496054252184,3.863619001571544,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,1.6229190288168605,Transparent Plastic,\"Is there any commonly printed plastic which I can buy that might be transparent to UV light? \n\nI wish to print a mould, then pour in my plastic which requires a UV light to activate the curing process. \n\",Axel Fernandes,\"Have you tried printing with Form labs clear resin ? \n\n( This is assuming you have access to a desktop SLA like the Form2+ or Form 1 )\n\nThe printed part itself gets hardened after exposure to uv light and actually can increase the life time of your mould .\n\nI have been using the Form labs Form 2+ a lot recently for small moulds and casting them with Polyurethane . They work amazing and the precision of the mould is high due to 0.05mm layer resolution that is achievable .\n\nOnce hardened the UV light easily passes through it and does not degrade the part at all . \n\nHere is the material data sheet \nhttps://formlabs.com/media/upload/Clear-DataSheet.pdf\n\nYou can easily get a clear resin print done through a local 3D printing service bureau that you can find using 3D hubs . \n\nPrices for printing on a formlabs are comparable to FDM 3D printing , it really just depends on your supplier .\n\nIf the above doesn't cut it then ,\n\nUse DSM Somos® WaterClear Ultra 10122 , please check below link and corresponding data sheet for technical specifications .\n\nhttps://www.dsm.com/products/somos/en_US/products/offerings-somos-water-clear.html\n\nThis can only be printed on a 3Ds systems viper , Envision tech preform series or other industrial 3D printers . \n\nAgain you can head to 3D hubs or call up the closest industrial 3D printing service bureau and ask them for the above material . They should be able to hook you up easily .\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n5684,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,insys,2.8153892694839717,4.880229451900221,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Temperature offset on Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mini,\"I'm trying to print with PLA on a new Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mini. In regular temperature settings (200-210°C) the printer underextrudes and the extruder motor skips, which led me to suspect low nozzle temperature. Increasing the temperature to 225°C indeed allows the printer to print normally without any problems.\n\nWhat can be the cause for this? Is it a faulty temperature reading? What is the way to fix it?\n\",mac,\"It's very difficult to diagnose 3D printers without physical access to the machine, but here's a few possibilities that come to mind (several of those may contribute together to the problem).\n\nThe temperature reading is poorly calibrated or defective\n\nThis means that the actual temperature is lower than what displayed. You can verify this hypothesis by using an IR thermometer or replacing the probe (on some printers the heat probe on the bed is the same than the one on the hot end, so you don't need to buy a new part).\n\nThe batch/brand of filament you have has a higher melting point than expected\n\nSo: the filament is supposed needs to be extruded at 225°C, but the label (or simply your assumption from having used other spools of filament) says otherwise. Just use that temperature and be happy.\n\nThe teeth of the extruder gear are worn\n\nWithin limits, the hotter the molten plastic is, the runnier. This means that at 225°C it will be less viscous than at 210°C and will strain the extruder motor less. If the gear of your extruder has worn teeth that won't \"\"bite\"\" deep enough into the filament, they will eventually slip when reaching a certain torque. The teeth of an extruder wheel should feel well defined under your fingers, if you are in doubt about them not being sharp enough, then they probably aren't, as the feeling is quite distinctive. Replacement gears can be purchased online very cheaply. EDIT: re-reading your question I realised you wrote that the motor skips, so this and the following point may not be the case for you, even if sometimes - but not always - slippage makes a similar noise to skipping.\n\nThe spring of the extruder gear is weak\n\nSee above, but here the root cause of the slippage is the extruder gear not being pushed hard enough into the filament. This is caused by the extruder spring being too weak. Most printers have some mechanism to regulate the tension of the spring. A DIY method is that of adding a stack of washers (or a custom printed cylinder) at one end of the spring in order to \"\"pre-tension\"\" it. Otherwise again: spring replacements are extremely cheap.\n\nYour part fan is blowing on the nozzle\n\nThe temperature probe measures temperature at some place in the heat block, not the nozzle. If your part fan is blowing too high, the flow of air may be cooling down the nozzle, instead of the extruder part. You most definitively want to avoid this by repositioning the fan or printing a custom fan deflector (the latter is a classic among mods). This is an easy-to-diagnose problem as most slicers allow you to turn the part fan off.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5686,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Yente Cool,2.8153892694839717,5.490468759513329,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.548335113978322,2.531698478710706,Extruder clicking Tronxy x5s,\"Whenever it start printing the extruder starts clicking, I tried adjusting the voltage with no luck, it's still clicking. And it doesn't extrude a lot of plastic sometimes it even stops extruding but the extruder is still turning. Can someone help?\n\",Trish,\"I have the TronXY X1, which uses the same extruder and firmware design as the TronXY X5. The clicking does not come from Voltage, but most likely a wrong set up of steps/mm or a lightly clogged nozzle.\n\nQuick and dirty steps/mm\n\n\nStart a print that you know clicks.\nwait for the clicking starts (it comes from the extruder pushing against resistance and jumping back a step)\nGo into Configuration > Extruder > Steps/MM\nalter it down a little, listen if the constant clickig stops, alter again if needed.\n\n\nNow, you need to make sure not to get into underextrusion doing this \"\"on the go\"\" fixing, and you really should calibrate your extruder.\n\nProper calibration\n\nTo calibrate your extruder, you could follow Thomas \"\"Tom\"\" Sanladerer calibration video or this rundown:\n\n\nMove the printhead to a position where it can extrude freely.\nheat up your hotend\nload the filament (or have one loaded)\ntake a filament spool and make small marks on it an increment from the extruder's intake - for example with a CD marker. Tom uses 100mm (Ep for Extruded planned) for the calibration and adds 50mm to compensate for overextrusion, so places the mark at 150mm (L for length), allowing to calculate a compensation into both directions.\nextrude 100mm of filament - it is advisable to directly send the G-code via a program here to use G92E0 to 0 the extruder and G1E100F90 for the extrusion\nMeasure the distance of your line to the extruder. Let's call this value R, for \"\"Result position\"\"\nNow, we calculate Et (extruded truely): L-R=Et\n\n\nNow, we have a length to compensate for. But what value we adjust? Steps/mm of course!\n\n\nEither go into Configuration > Extruder > Steps/MM or send M503 to get the steps/mm from the configuration\nlets call this value S for Steps/mm\n\n\nNow, let's calculate the Sa, \"\"Steps/mm adjusted\"\":\n* S*Ep/Et=Sa\n\nNow, let's get it into the machine!\n* Go into Configuration > Extruder > Steps/MM and adjust manually\n * make sure to save into EEPROM\n* alternatively, send M92ESa , replacing Sa with your calculated value \n * Then, send M500 to store the value in the EEPROM\n* third alternative: change the firmware configuration and reupload.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5686,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Yente Cool,2.8153892694839717,5.490468759513329,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.548335113978322,2.531698478710706,Extruder clicking Tronxy x5s,\"Whenever it start printing the extruder starts clicking, I tried adjusting the voltage with no luck, it's still clicking. And it doesn't extrude a lot of plastic sometimes it even stops extruding but the extruder is still turning. Can someone help?\n\",Dangerously Explosive,\"I also have this problem with the X5S, and it's not just on the first layer (which is sometimes finicky depending on the levelling). I've narrowed it down to a few things, and I've also noticed that it varies based on the print.\n\nPossible Causes (and a suggested solution for each):\n\n\nBad quality hotend assembly: My X5S has a teflon-lined hotend, and besides that I don't like the rather small heatsink, mine came such that the bowden tube acts as the teflon lining, ie the lining and the bowden tube are the same piece. Already not a great design, but the implementation is slightly worrying. I'd recommend switching the hotend for a genuine E3D, I myself am planning on getting a Cyclops+ Aqua, which will be sure to resolve any existing issues.\nBowden tube is iffy: I'm not sure about this one, but I've noticed quite a bit of resistance in the bowden tube while loading filaments. I think this is causing excessive force on the Extruder motor (which I've noticed heats up quite a bit more than the other motors, to the point where I've added a heatsink to avoid possible damage). My solution is to swap the teflon for the blue Capricorn tubing from Trianglelabs.\nExtruder setup isn't that great: As I mentioned before, the extruder motor tends to heat up a bit, and I just don't like the implementation of the extruder gears. I'd recommend switching this setup for a different one, if possible.\nPrint temperature and speed: I've noted that when I increase the temperature and decrease the speed of prints, the clicking reduces in frequency, but it does still occasionally click and my prints turn out horribly. This might be pointing to an issue with either extruder calibration or the flow rate during a print, as mentioned by other people here.\n\n\nCheers!\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5829,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Yente Cool,2.8153892694839717,3.137850340878127,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Why is my filament pressed together at the nozzle,\"When I wanted to take out the filament from the extruder, it didn't wanna come out, it was stuck (even when I heated up the nozzle). So I unscrewed the nozzle and it looks like the filament is all pressed together at the top of the nozzle (see picture). What does this mean? I am heaving issues extruding filament from the nozzle, the filament barely comes out and the extruder motor is clicking. Can someone help, please.\n\",profesor79,\"As per attached picture I can see that the issue source could be:\n\n\nthe ptf tube is not inserted to the end of heat-break, or it is not straight-cut at the end - see this video for help\nthe cooler on the hotend is not working properly/not installed and heat goes up to the throttle and melts the material\nan object in the nozzle that blocks the flow (usually a ptf tube particle that probably melted) - clean/replace the nozzle\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5695,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,G-Pereira,2.1782824847157594,5.0409994028537515,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,0.7766301205685938,Weird Movement and not homing,\"https://photos.app.goo.gl/O6yPf3sDeV1yhS0C2\n\nI tried to illustrate my problem in the videos above, two of them show the weird movement and the other shows me clicking on the home button repeatedly.\n\nSome Info:\n\n\nMarlin 1.1.8 or 2.0.0 (same problem in both)\nRobotdyn RAMPS 1.4\n0.9 angle stepper motors\nDRV8825 drivers configured at 0.8V Vref\nAnet A2 Plus stock for all the rest\n\n\",profesor79,\"As far as I can see on the attached videos your homing movement is reversed.\nas per Marlin, the homing for X shall move towards the left side and for Y to the back of the printer.\n\nThat could occur when: cable connectors to stepper motors are reversed, or the motor is assembled the other way (you can set reverse direction in Marlin)\n\nThe other issue is steps/mm calibration need to be done see source below.\n\nThe high pitch in the video could also point that the drv8825 is shutting down the movement as it is overloaded.\n\nplease also check that for vref\n\n\n Configuring Vref In order to measure Vref you first need to turn on\n your printer as you normally would. If you only connecct using USB,\n but not external power, you get a wrong reading.\n \n You need to turn on your multimeter and set it at 2v. Put the red one\n on the potentiometer and the Black one on the Gnd pin. Both are marked\n on the images here.\n \n Before starting this I read they come with a very high vref setting,\n and it is recommended to start around 0.5v Vref. After measuring mine,\n I can confirm they come with a very high initial setting. Mine both\n came at 1,65v or so! - Yours might be different, which just underlines\n the importance of doing this.\n \n Contrary to normal potentiometer usage, the ones on most copies/clones\n of DRV8825 are lowered by turning clock-wise, so that is what we will\n do, to we hit 0,5v on each. - A quarter of a full turn lowered it to\n 0,7v, - after that it goes very, very rapidly down, so aim for the\n quarter of a turn + a tiny tad more. If you buy your DRV8825 directly\n from pololu.com the Potentiometer are dialed up by turning it\n clock-wise:\n\n\nsource\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5695,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,G-Pereira,2.1782824847157594,5.0409994028537515,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,0.7766301205685938,Weird Movement and not homing,\"https://photos.app.goo.gl/O6yPf3sDeV1yhS0C2\n\nI tried to illustrate my problem in the videos above, two of them show the weird movement and the other shows me clicking on the home button repeatedly.\n\nSome Info:\n\n\nMarlin 1.1.8 or 2.0.0 (same problem in both)\nRobotdyn RAMPS 1.4\n0.9 angle stepper motors\nDRV8825 drivers configured at 0.8V Vref\nAnet A2 Plus stock for all the rest\n\n\",G-Pereira,\"The problem was the logic of the endstops that were reversed\n\",-1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n5697,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cmm,2.8153892694839717,4.043361299226703,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Which 3D design softwares make multi-material amf or other design files that slic3r will slice?,\"I'm looking for suggestions for 3D design software which support designing multi-material parts.\n\nI will be printing on a multi-extruder machine based on RepRap firmware. The printer will handle the files when given a proper g-code file. Slic3r will produce a proper g-code file given the right input. STL seems to be single-material, so I am looking for something like AMF files, or any alternative.\n\nMy question is, what is available for 3D design software which will produce a geometry file which slic3r (or some other slicing software) will properly process? I'm not asking for opinions on which software is best.\n\nI believe this is my first question in any StackExchange forum, so if I have trespassed on community standards, it was not my intention.\n\",0scar,\"You do not necessarily need a specific design tool, you can use any tool you want to create your multiple material product. It is the slicer software that manages the materials by assigning the correct extruder. E.g. Cura is able to join 2 STL files that fit together and assign each part a specific extruder and thus material. Please read more here for instructions\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6726,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cmm,2.1782824847157594,4.0883431810905995,3.507933925167123,3.1880595895805834,4.503257053771732,3.9829738809469584,What special considerations must be taken when designing parts for 3D printing?,\"What are the 'headline' basic design rules for FDM? \n\nWhich topics for design principles do you recommend to someone who has purchased an FDM machine and wants to understand what is practical? In other words, where is the place to start when you don't yet know what questions to ask?\n\nThis question and its answer discuss design tools and the workflow but doesn't cover design rules.\n\nDesign rules here meaning the principles of what is special about planning a design to be manufactured with an FDM process as opposed to traditional machining or a printing process like SLA, not the detailed/automated checks that would be applied to something like a PCB layout prior to sign-off.\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"In a presentation(pdf) that I've used as an introduction to 3D printing, I listed out the following points:\n\n\nStructures have to be built-up from the build platform, with only about 45° overhang (or small flat bridges).\n\n\nsupports can be added (generally automatically), but results can be variable.\nchanging the print orientation can solve overhand problems.\n\nInfill is used partly to provide additional strength, and partly to support any roof parts. Generally a print will not be solid.\nSmall parts in particular may need a brim to help with bed adhesion.\nDesigns must be 'manifold' to be printable. Arguably this is part of the workflow, but it can be the cause of non-obvious failures.\n\n\nThe other detail worth calling out is the precision of what can be printed with FDM, although the best case resolution is ~0.1mm, the overall accuracy will be closer to the nozzle diameter due to the way that extruded filament is squashed during the print.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6726,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cmm,2.1782824847157594,4.0883431810905995,3.507933925167123,3.1880595895805834,4.503257053771732,3.9829738809469584,What special considerations must be taken when designing parts for 3D printing?,\"What are the 'headline' basic design rules for FDM? \n\nWhich topics for design principles do you recommend to someone who has purchased an FDM machine and wants to understand what is practical? In other words, where is the place to start when you don't yet know what questions to ask?\n\nThis question and its answer discuss design tools and the workflow but doesn't cover design rules.\n\nDesign rules here meaning the principles of what is special about planning a design to be manufactured with an FDM process as opposed to traditional machining or a printing process like SLA, not the detailed/automated checks that would be applied to something like a PCB layout prior to sign-off.\n\",Trish,\"Designing a part for 3D printing often doesn't seem to have many special considerations, but I have learned the hard way, that there are some things to do differently. This is just a list of things to that one should keep in mind in addition to basic principles of design1 when designing parts, keeping the subsequently slicing the parts in mind too:\n\nPrint orientation\n\nThere are many ways how you could orient your print, but usually, there is one orientation, that has the least need for support. Look at your part critically and keep this orientation in mind when designing. Especially look at overhangs and bridging, and if you can get away without.\n\nOverhangs\n\nThere are 3 sorts of overhangs: \n\n\nSmall overhangs ones that are neglectable. \nLong overhangs which can get support. \nOverhangs that can't be supported.\n\n\nWhen designing parts, you want to make sure you only have type 1 and 2 Overhangs, as type 3 overhangs will sag and fail. Think carefully if you can rotate the piece to get a print orientation that does not need an overhang that can't be supported by an automatically generated support structure. If that is impossible, try to implement a sacrificial piece that can turn the overhang into a bridge.\n\nSmaller overhangs can be made neglectable by adding a phase to the underside. This phase's angle is depending on the printer. In my experience, 70° is something many printers can manage, but I prefer 45° due to the ease of making them. A fuller can work to give a small overhang the needed support, but often has problems for larger overhangs!\n\nBridges\n\nOverhangs turn into bridges if they are connected on both sides. These either have a limited length, depending on the printer you use or need a support in the center. Check if you really need a bridge or if you can rotate the piece to get away without.\n\nAvoid vertical holes in bridges\n\nIt might be something that might surprise but a vertical hole or slot in a bridging part is something that often fails as the bridging strings just sag as they are terminated mid-air without a support structure and finally fall, ruining the bridge. Yet such a support structure sometimes could not be removed in all cases, so something needs to be done differently.\n\nOne such a solution is to add a 1-layer sacrificial layer on the bottom of the hole: printing a solid layer by bridging is possible, and the subsequent hole/slot can still be free. It has to be cut free after printing in post-processing though.\n\nround holes in Walls\n\nRound holes in standing walls can become problematic to print once the diameter gets too large. A trick to keep the upper parts of the hole to sag into the cavity, making it undersized or needing to drill it to size later. To prevent this, the upper side of the hole can be adjusted: instead of a round upper rim, turn the hole into a teardrop. This reduces the overhanging area. Keeping a 60° top angle on the hole should be fine. \n\nIf the hole is used to key an item to an axle, put the keyway to the top of the print orientation, so it takes the place of the teardrop-tip.\n\nSome more about holes one can learn from Makers Muse (Angus Daveson)\n\nReduce internal structure\n\nI have seen prints fail for strange reasons. One of them was a piece taken from a straight up industrial design plan, then scaled down. This one resulted in too much tiny internal geometry, resulting in a lot of material and time wasted on printing these internal pieces that nobody could reach, that were fused together for the original gaps were already 0.2mm and less and besides that, there was the occasional print failure.\n\nRemoving any non-essential internal geometry lessens not only the printer's load, but speeds up the print, lessens the material waste and can prevent failures due to clogs or other unexpected behavior. If you can't fix it in design, there are workarounds, but try to need to avoid them!\n\nAvoid Intersecting Shells\n\nAs we are at it, often game and graphic designers are lazy and use intersecting shells. These can become quite messy in the slicing step. If possible, try to avoid intersecting shells, even as modern slicers have learned to fix this by themselves by now. The results of that are not always pretty if you forget to flag the \"\"Union intersecting shells\"\" option in your slicer.\n\nSizing\n\nWe might not always be aware of it, but prints do shrink in the XY axis and to a different degree in the Z axis as they cool, during and after the print is done. This is what causes warping in the first place and lead to many lost prints (especially on non-heated beds). This behavior has to be taken into consideration especially when designing bores. My suggestion for this is twofold:\n\n\nIntentionally design the hole to be too small and add extra wall material in slicing, then drill it up to the right diameter. Drill slowly to not melt the plastic.\nLearn your shrinking parameter for the material and design with that shrinkage in mind, possibly iterating the print a few times. Note that different spools/colors of the same material might have different shrinking!\n\n\nMinimum Wall Thickness\n\nA 3D-printer can not reliably print walls that are thinner than the extrusion width of a printer. The choice of the correct nozzle for an extrusion width is a question upon itself..\n\nTapping/Screwing/Inserts\n\nFor tapping prints directly, you need wall thickness - according to the norms - you'll need usually about 0.2mm diameter that can be tapped into for the standard sizes. Using 3 perimeter walls will give 1.2mm, which I consider a rather strong wall, and providing quite some tolerance to drill up to size and then tapping screws into. You might get away with 2 for smaller (M3 and lower), but for large ones you might want a fourth perimeter.\n\nRemember though, that the printed PLA is not good for a very strong threading: Tapping prints directly is pretty much only for non-load-bearing connections. \n\nIf you need a load bearing connection with screws, the best strength comes from using a metal insert or provide a space for a nut to fit into. Metal inserts are usually placed by heat-setting them: put the heat-set insert onto a soldering iron tip and push it into the slightly under-sized hole, melting and molding the print to fit the insert, providing strong threads that are held really good in the shell of remolded plastic.\n\nAs a compromise, modern slicers allow to use modifier meshes, that could be used to increase the strength of modeled threads or holes that need to be tapped.\n\nDo you want to know more? CNC Kitchen (Stefan) had made some tests on the strength of these connection type.\n\nPrint strength\n\nKeep these general rules in mind when designing load-bearing parts:\n\nGenerally speaking, FDM prints are strongest in carrying along their Z-axis when withstanding compressive forces, as then the print layers of the shell are forced against each other. It also excels at fighting bending forces this way. But this orientation is also giving us the lowest tensile strength, as each layer boundary is a possible breaking point.\n\nThe XY-plane usually excels in tensile strength but sacrifices some of its ability to withstand compression (it is not proportional though).\n\nPrinting a part at a 45° angle will give often a great compromise of strengths, but might need an additional surface to get a good first layer - this surface can be sacrificial with the use of support.\n\nFor deeper information on the strength of parts and materials in comparison and how to manipulate it, there are large playlists of tests made by CNC Kitchen (Stefan) and Thomas Sanladerer (Tom)\n\nPost processing\n\nPost processing can be your best friend when printing, just as it can be your worst nightmare. I won't detail all methods of postprocessing, but some that are quite applicable.\n\nAssembly/Gluing\n\nRemember to design your parts with gaps for the glue when designing parts for assembly, and you might want to include guidance notches/noses to make sure the assembly aligns. This is especially needed as the parts shrink a little and have a rough surface.\n\nIf you need to assemble your part due to the available print volume, be sure to include ways to key the parts together. Pegs or outcroppings/indents (often called keys) that match up to one another make alignment on assembly much easier. It can be a good idea to design yourself a \"\"cookie cutter\"\" file that is applied after designing the part that automatically includes the glue gaps and keys.\n\nThere are a lot of glues and other methods to merge the parts. A more in-depth look at some of them is What glues for PLA? but you will have to keep in mind how you want to combine your pieces in the design step - and account for it.\n\nPrint in Place/PIP\n\nIn this vein, learn the tolerances your printer can manage to allow print-in-place(PIP), allowing functional parts that require no assembly. PIP is something that isn't possible with subtractive manufacturing usually, but remember that in 3D printing you might need to break the parts free after printing from bridges or sagging. Usually, a single strong turn suffices. To be able to do this, you might want to include a position for an Allen-key to manually turn the parts. \n\nTo learn how fine your tolerances are, there are many tolerance gauges/tests around. A rule of thumb for many printers is, that 1 nozzle width is often easily achievable with a good setup, 0.5 nozzles are achievable with some effort and 0.25 is somewhere close to the 'holy grail' - you might want to change the nozzle to a smaller one in case you want to have very thin gaps.\n\nComposite construction\n\nThere are ways to turn your (mostly) hollow prints into much stiffer versions of themselves by turning them into composites, for example by using a resin or a different hardening fluid (like foam or plaster) as a filler or coating material. \n\nWhen planning to do so, remember to include inlets/outlets for it and the air. It can be a good idea to design the part in such a way that it just contains the walls and a pre-planned support structure. In doing so, remember to disable infill in the slicer to enforce the flow you want in your structure. Look at how the ribs inside of an airframe are designed for general rules on hollow parts: include holes. This allows the flow of your fluid into each and every corner instead of blocking the flow. This can also reduce the needed number of inlets and outlets from one per chamber to one per part.\n\nPlastic Properties\n\nRemember we work with thermoplastics. Learn what kind of postprocessing your thermoplastic allows and its mechanical properties. Some examples:\n\n\nAPS can be vapor smoothed with acetone.\nMany plastics can be annealed by baking at or little above their glass transition temperature, increasing strength and layer-to-layer bonding.\nWhen using power tools on plastic, use ample cooling and time, as otherwise, one quickly melts the prints!\n\n\nSurface Finish\n\nThe surface of FDM prints is somewhat rough. To smooth it out there are 2 general ways: fill it up or smooth it down. If you want to fill it up, design the part undersized, if you smooth it down, add sacrificial thickness. It is common to combine both, adding body filler first, then sanding down till the print material shows through again. If doing this, make sure to check your sizing. \n\nIf there comes a lacquer layer atop, remember to account for that thickness: undersize surfaces, oversize holes!\n\n\n\n1 - this means, that thoughts about postprocessing that are not unique to 3D printing are not elaborated on here. Examples are painting, coating or smoothing the surface mechanically.\n\n\n\nFurther reading/viewing\n\nFurther information can be gotten from these playlists, though they aim at times for newbies:\n\n\nCNC Kitchen (Stefan): 3D Printing for Engineers Playlist\nCNC Kitchen (Stefan): 3D Printing Tips\nMaker's Muse (Angus): 3D Printint 101\nMaker's Muse (Angus): Advanced 3D Printing Tips\nMaker's Muse (Angus): CAD for Newbies\nMaker's Muse (Angus): CAD for 3D Printing\n\n\",3.859531739127555,2.0769199823829045\n10143,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cmm,2.8153892694839717,3.826347838726222,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.306096197889172,Through what methods and mechanisms can a multi-material FDM printer operate?,\"I now own the Prusa3D MMU2. The benefits, costs, and experience others have had is well documented. I am interested in rebuilding my large, home-designed delta machine to be multi-material, and don't want to overlook strategies I haven't considered.\n\nMy original implementation used an E3D Kraken as the hot-end, and handled the inevitable delta tilt by adding two additional degrees of freedom to the head to lower the selected nozzle to the bed. I've been through three generations of mechanisms, and I think the third will work.\n\nBut, I feel that I am not seeing obvious and better alternatives.\n\nSo, the question: Through what methods and mechanisms can a multi-material (different polymers, different temperatures) FDM printer operate, and are there available designs or examples of best practices for those methods?\n\",Trish,\"Let's look at various methods:\n\nMultiple Hotends\n\nThe oldest version and one of the best to print materials at vastly different print temperatures (like printing a cheaper PLA infill into a Polycarbonate shell - the print temperature difference is 60-100 °C) is to have 2 or more hotends. This way also avoids the need for purging towers. It does, however, limit the maximum size of the used printbed and few 2-printhead machines are cheap.\n\nY-Coupler\n\nUsing a bowden setup, a Y-coupler could be used to feed the filament from 2 extruders into one hotend. On the switching tool command, E0 would pull the filament back some couple millimeters beyond the coupler and then E1 would push forward back into the meltzone. One will need a purging tower/object.\n\nSpecial, multi-entry hotend\n\nSome Hotends had been concieved that have 2 or more ways into the meltzone and the multiple extruders push along them. They generally are quite complex and hard to clean, but they allow to seamlessly blend between two filaments of the same material and create pretty much a controlled fade by precisely directing how much of either side is used on any layer. For clean cuts, a purging tower is necessary.\n\nSplicing filament\n\nThis is what the Palette 2 and the Prusa MMU do: they push pieces of filament into a feeder tube that then are consumed by the printer via its own extruder. If they melt the filaments together like in the PAlette, it's proper splicing, if they just line up the next filament piece without merging into a spliced filament it's more like instant color switching.\n\nThis method is good for multi-color prints or using materials that have the same or similar1 melting temperatures. It might or might not need a purge tower/object to get rid of the residue in the zones between the filaments.\n\nThis could btw also be done manually but should be avoided.\n\n1 - or rather not too dissimilar, if the slicer is set up to do it right. By setting up the slicer cleverly, one can have the extruder retract the filament, then adjust the heat over the purge tower and then resume extruding in the purge object at the changed temperature. PLA/PVA from a Prusa MMU is known and advertised to be doable, PLA/ABS might be possible this way. For extreme dissimilarities like PLA/PC (60-100 °C) I have my doubts though. \n\nUsability\n\nAll of these variants are basically viable, but some have benefits over others. Service is in this comparison meant as repairing a broken extruder, maintaining as the operations needed to keep it in printing order.\n\n\nmultiple fully independent hotends is among the easiest to services. It could be direct drive (good for flexible filaments) or bowden. It is however heavy and usually not an option for delta printers. It has a downside that you have to perfectly level two hotend nozzles to be exactly on the same height, putting it in the hard to maintain category.\n\n\nmultiple hotends on the same carrier is harder to service and maintain in comparison to multiple independent hotends as the components are very close together. Especially nozzle height adjustments can be more finicky.\n\nY-Coupler needs to be a bowden and has problem with materials that are very stringy. That makes it especially bad for flexible materials. Maintaining is like a normal hotend and servicing is almost the same.\nSpecial hotends are hard to come by but could be available for direct drive, making them possible for flexible filaments. They are, as already noticed, very hard to service.\nSplicing filament can be done with either direct drive or bowden setups. It is probaby the most convenient to use after setup and has the maintenance and serviceability of a single hotend and a fully separate machine. Their biggest downside is price and setup time needed.\n\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n10143,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cmm,2.8153892694839717,3.826347838726222,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.306096197889172,Through what methods and mechanisms can a multi-material FDM printer operate?,\"I now own the Prusa3D MMU2. The benefits, costs, and experience others have had is well documented. I am interested in rebuilding my large, home-designed delta machine to be multi-material, and don't want to overlook strategies I haven't considered.\n\nMy original implementation used an E3D Kraken as the hot-end, and handled the inevitable delta tilt by adding two additional degrees of freedom to the head to lower the selected nozzle to the bed. I've been through three generations of mechanisms, and I think the third will work.\n\nBut, I feel that I am not seeing obvious and better alternatives.\n\nSo, the question: Through what methods and mechanisms can a multi-material (different polymers, different temperatures) FDM printer operate, and are there available designs or examples of best practices for those methods?\n\",Nach0z,\"One of the easiest ways that I've seen, which I'm a fan of, is simply putting Y splitters on your Bowden tube and having multiple feeds to a single hot end. The main benefit is that you only need a single hot end, so you don't have to worry about extruder offset or alignment or anything like that, but you do have to worry about material blending somewhat. Basically you end up needing to build a \"\"purge tower\"\" next to your printed items that you use to transition from one material to another.\n\nThere's the Diamond hotend setup that basically moves the connections into the hotend itself, which reduces the size of your purge tower but increases the risk of burning if you're trying to print with materials with vastly different printing temps, like PLA and PETG.\n\nYou could also have swappable hotends but that requires you to be there to manually swap the print head twice per layer. Don't recommend.\n\nUnfortunately there's only so many solutions to the multi material problem, either you put multiple materials through a single hotend, or you have multiple hotends. I'm a fan of the single hotend approach personally, especially on deltas where weight and space are at a premium and alignment becomes problematic.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10401,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cmm,1.0891412423578797,2.6908545064521765,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,How does Prusa3D firmware respond to an open or shorted thermistor during a print?,\"I have a Prusa3D i3m3s. The problem occurred once before with firmware 3.6.1. Last night I upgraded to firmware 3.7.1 and repeated the problem almost exactly.\n\nThe symptom is that at what appears to be the same point in the print in the two failure instances, the extruder stops extruding. There are a few wisps of filament on both failures. The print continues to completing. At the end of the print, the firmware issues an error because the MMU2s can not properly retract the filament.\n\nOn analysis, the filament is tightly jammed into the extruder and hot end, almost as if there has been heat creep. Slow, strong, and steady tension on the filament will withdraw it from the extruder system.\n\nThe hot end heats normally, and maintains temperature. When hot, plastic extrudes properly from the hot nozzle.\n\nThe thermister wires are damaged from an earlier problem.\n\nThe damage points to a thermister-related problem, but a shorted or open thermister is easy to detect in firmware. I would expect it to throw an error and stop the print. \n\nMy question is: Does the Prusa3D firmware detect open/shorted thermisters and stop the print?\n\nIf a photo is required, I can post that tomorrow.\n\",Nach0z,\"This sounds like a problem I had with my hotend cooling fan a couple years back. To answer your question, from what I'm reading, the Prusa3D firmware detects thermal runaway if the hotend temperature drops for more than 45 seconds, it detects an open-circuit by reading 16 °C or less (MINTEMP error), and detects a short by reading 310 °C or higher (MAXTEMP error). \n\nCouple questions that might help better troubleshoot the root of the problem:\n\n\nhave you measured the thermistor's resistance while cold or hot?\nhave you made sure your hotend cooling fan is at an appropriate speed while heated?\nhave you made sure your print cooling fan duct isn't pointed at the hotend block due to being jostled?\n\n\nYou might find that there are some fairly simple solutions to a handful of overheat problems. I bought a cheap knockoff all-metal heatbreak and immediately ran into problems, but solved them by printing a better heatsink shroud and upgrading to a 40 mm fan. If you've upgraded to an all-metal hotend, you might run into issues with PLA specifically if you're not printing enough material fast enough, as PLA is somewhat sensitive to heat creep through the filament itself in the throat of the hotend.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10424,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cmm,1.0891412423578797,2.4524811080749744,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Has anyone rebuilt Prusa3D firmware for the Genuine Pruse i3m3s?,\"With no answer to my question two days ago about how the Prusa printer behaves with an intermittent open or shorted thermistor, I'd like to ask this question of relative last resort.\n\nPrusa seems to have some version of their i3 software posted on Github. Should I expect this to be current, or some older version?\n\nHave you rebuilt, reflashed, and operated with rebuilt Prusa firmware?\n\nIf so, what tips would you offer?\n\nI ask because once I open something like that up, I inevitably am seduced into making changes.\n\",Mark,\"The Prusa Firmware on GitHub is the very latest version -- it's the code repository Prusa uses for development. My suggestion is that you don't use it unless you're planning to do firmware development or testing, because like any such software, it tends to have bugs.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5699,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,rbanffy,1.0891412423578797,3.064190294673638,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Is there any public and reasonably accurate 3D scan from a Cray-2 computer?,\"I'm thinking about building a Cray-2 inspired cluster. I'm concerned about the exterior housing modules, proportions and panels.\n\nHas anyone done a good 3D scan of one?\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"LMGTFY, etc. etc. Depends on the amount of detail you want. A cheap starter: here, or here or irrational fruit\n\",0.0,0.0\n5706,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,koosbeer,2.8153892694839717,4.39370254367943,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,Filament clogging just above feeding tube - Duplicator 6,\"I have this clogging problem on my 3D printer that I am having a really hard time to solve. I am a hobbiest so in no way am I a professional with regards to 3D printers. I also know that this is a popular issue and I have tried a lot of the proposed solutions (going through a lot of PLA filament and failed prints) to no avail. I will try to describe the problem and what I have tried to solve it.\n\nFirst the issue:\n\nThis shows how the filament clogs. The next image shows the assembled printer head for reference.: \n\nThis is how the print looks when it fails:\n\nI have tried the following:\n- Adjusting the temperate between 190 up to 220 for the PLA filament. Everything trying a print with it.\n- Doing a thorough cleaning of the nozzle (Acetone soak, wire brush, guitar string etc.)\n- Checking the Teflon pipe inside the tube if it is clear and ensuring that the edges allow the filament to pass through.\n- Check if the cooling fans work well to ensure cooling of the whole assembly (they work, they aren't jammed etc.)\n- Dissambling the printer head and putting it back together.\n\nI have printed with the printer before without a problem. I printed PETG a few times to get that working and the results were decent. When I returned to PLA this issue started and no matter what I change on the profile it won't work. I have tried adjusting feedrate, flow rate, retraction amount and speed, temperature, fan speeds to name but a few things.\n\nI have a Cura profile I can upload if that will help. Any advise would be much appreciated. I have been struggling with this for a while now and really need some options.\n\",mer2329,\"that looks like heat creep.\nheat creep is the result of in too much heat in the hot end creeping its way into the cold end. and results in a gradual clogs mid print.\n\nto combat heat creep you need to sink that heat elsewhere and dissipate it.\nthis is where a heatsink and fan come into play.\nthe heatsink should be in direct contact with the throat mount/clamp, giving the heat more space to dissipate, and that dissipation is aided by the fan.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5706,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,koosbeer,2.8153892694839717,4.39370254367943,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,Filament clogging just above feeding tube - Duplicator 6,\"I have this clogging problem on my 3D printer that I am having a really hard time to solve. I am a hobbiest so in no way am I a professional with regards to 3D printers. I also know that this is a popular issue and I have tried a lot of the proposed solutions (going through a lot of PLA filament and failed prints) to no avail. I will try to describe the problem and what I have tried to solve it.\n\nFirst the issue:\n\nThis shows how the filament clogs. The next image shows the assembled printer head for reference.: \n\nThis is how the print looks when it fails:\n\nI have tried the following:\n- Adjusting the temperate between 190 up to 220 for the PLA filament. Everything trying a print with it.\n- Doing a thorough cleaning of the nozzle (Acetone soak, wire brush, guitar string etc.)\n- Checking the Teflon pipe inside the tube if it is clear and ensuring that the edges allow the filament to pass through.\n- Check if the cooling fans work well to ensure cooling of the whole assembly (they work, they aren't jammed etc.)\n- Dissambling the printer head and putting it back together.\n\nI have printed with the printer before without a problem. I printed PETG a few times to get that working and the results were decent. When I returned to PLA this issue started and no matter what I change on the profile it won't work. I have tried adjusting feedrate, flow rate, retraction amount and speed, temperature, fan speeds to name but a few things.\n\nI have a Cura profile I can upload if that will help. Any advise would be much appreciated. I have been struggling with this for a while now and really need some options.\n\",PR90,\"Sometimes the filament quality itself could be the culprit. Have you tried printing with a different spool of PLA?\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n5710,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,jeremiah harless,2.8153892694839717,5.063984402525457,0.0,5.199501240805782,1.8746593652159236,1.6768776830577872,Prusa i3 PLA fails to stick to first layer on curves,\"I have been searching around on google and not found any answers to this dilemma. I am using a Prusa I3 printer with PLA, trying to print horseshoes for the company I work for. They are for model horses, so quality is fairly important. I seem to have gotten all the settings dialed in just the way I want them and for the most part, the prints come out fine. There is however one annoying thing that keeps happening. When the filament is going around the curve of the top of the horseshoe on layers beyond the first, the filament does not follow the curves of the first layer. But its not every time. It seems like it is just the 2nd or 3rd Layers that are doing it. I have adjusted the flow rate, the speed, the layer height, temperature, and nothing seems to get rid of this irksome issues. I can of course provide more in depth details, and am including a pic of what i am getting. Any Ideas?\n\",Horitsu,\"I got the same problem on a Ultimaker 3 with Cura. The problem was, that there is a hidden option for the initial layer. By default the first layer is set to something around 130-150 % of the normal layer height. \n\nSo if you set up 0.2 mm the initial layer will be printed with 0.27 mm and this can cause problems. After setting this initial layer height to also 0.2 mm the print stuck really good at the bed. \n\nI also made similar observations on my own Anet A8. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5710,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,jeremiah harless,2.8153892694839717,5.063984402525457,0.0,5.199501240805782,1.8746593652159236,1.6768776830577872,Prusa i3 PLA fails to stick to first layer on curves,\"I have been searching around on google and not found any answers to this dilemma. I am using a Prusa I3 printer with PLA, trying to print horseshoes for the company I work for. They are for model horses, so quality is fairly important. I seem to have gotten all the settings dialed in just the way I want them and for the most part, the prints come out fine. There is however one annoying thing that keeps happening. When the filament is going around the curve of the top of the horseshoe on layers beyond the first, the filament does not follow the curves of the first layer. But its not every time. It seems like it is just the 2nd or 3rd Layers that are doing it. I have adjusted the flow rate, the speed, the layer height, temperature, and nothing seems to get rid of this irksome issues. I can of course provide more in depth details, and am including a pic of what i am getting. Any Ideas?\n\",Iain Ballard,\"Is that printed on to tape? It looks very uneven. I'm guessing this is general bad adhesion and its just showing up best when going around curves.\nIf you print onto tape, try putting it down with a squeegee, so it's absolutely flat and level with no creases or bubbles.\n\nI've personally had very little luck printing onto masking tape.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5724,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,DarkTerritory,3.267423727073639,5.711932517042646,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Anet A8 - X and Y axis not square - how to fix?,\"I have an Anet A8 printer for about 4 months, set up pretty well (or so I thought) and printing a number of models pretty well. I made a large 3\"\" x 6\"\" box with a sliding lid yesterday and when it was done there was a gap on one side when the lid was slid on. I checked the parts and it turns out they are not square - which means the X and Y axes are not square to each other.\n\nI'm wondering how to adjust this - I'm thinking that extending the distance between the back of the frame and the front by adjusting the threaded rods that separate them to a wider distance on the side where the angle is obtuse. Obviously one of the first things I'll check is that the distance between the front and back is the same (I can't imagine why I never checked that before, come to think of it).\n\nDoes this sound like a sound plan?\n\",0scar,\"I recently went to the same issue on my CoreXY printer (culprit was uneven belt tension in the 2 belts), but you have a Prusa style printer like my first Anet A8 printer.\n\nIf you just found out (because you are printing large models now) but always had this issue it could be frame related. You should check your printer and try to fix the geometry that is causing this. If this is impossible you could fix this by changing the firmware (see below). If large prints used to be accurate, but are now skewed, you could be facing stretched belts. Replacing them will fix the issue.\n\nSkewness compensation in Marlin:\nWhen X-Y are skew (or any other plane like X-Z or Y-Z) you can fix that through the firmware software in Marlin Firmware. Please go into the Configuration.h file and look at the instructions; please search for \"\"Bed Skew Compensation\"\".\n\nBasically you are required to print a giant square and measure the diagonals, these should be the same, but apparently are not in your case. \n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n5724,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,DarkTerritory,3.267423727073639,5.711932517042646,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Anet A8 - X and Y axis not square - how to fix?,\"I have an Anet A8 printer for about 4 months, set up pretty well (or so I thought) and printing a number of models pretty well. I made a large 3\"\" x 6\"\" box with a sliding lid yesterday and when it was done there was a gap on one side when the lid was slid on. I checked the parts and it turns out they are not square - which means the X and Y axes are not square to each other.\n\nI'm wondering how to adjust this - I'm thinking that extending the distance between the back of the frame and the front by adjusting the threaded rods that separate them to a wider distance on the side where the angle is obtuse. Obviously one of the first things I'll check is that the distance between the front and back is the same (I can't imagine why I never checked that before, come to think of it).\n\nDoes this sound like a sound plan?\n\",Gordon L. Scott,\"To correct x-y axis alignment to 90 degrees: Loosen the nuts on the two threaded rods at one end and in the middle. Lower the Z-axis to its lowest level. Place a square block of wood or metal so that it rests on the table and is snug against the X-axis rods. Slide the table so that either its rear or front edge is under the edge of the block. There you can clearly see any misalignment by comparing the edge of the block and the edge of the table. Now the 'fun' part: rack the entire assembly, pulling the diagonal corners to square the table and block. You may have to tape the assembly down to keep it in place while you spin the threaded rod nuts back into place....gently,then carefully snug the nuts while watching the table and block to insure they stay put!\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5729,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Carlo Matulessy,3.0576060275493275,4.5130707292534495,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,\"Anet A6 - First time assembled, won't turn on\",\"I recently bought an Anet A6 and decided to assemble it today. When I plugged in the power, I don't get any sign of life from the printer. No lights, no bleeps, no fans which are starting to blow.\n\nI checked the motherboard and it receives power from the adapter (I live in Europe, the Netherlands, so the voltage is 220V) but nothing happens.\n\nCan someone help me out?\n\nI added some pictures of the wiring for references. Display cables are correctly set (J3 to J3 and LCD to LCD).\n\n\n\n\n\",profesor79,\"Welcome to 3d Printing!\nas this is a first day of the printer there could be a list of items...\n\nFirst thing first: disconnect all peripherals, so we can test mainboard.\n\nBefore connecting PSU we can connect mainboard via usb and see if it starts (I will probably use a power bank in that case to avoid burning USB (worse case scenario)).\nThen you can use cura or another host program to connect to the printer and validate firmware. If the printer is not recognized we can reflash the firmware using provided app or ArduinoIDE .\n\nIf all looks good we can check PSU.\n\n\nplease check output voltage from power supply unit (shall be 12V) (on the terminals, there is a small voltage regulator on the lefthand side)\nthen double check polarity \nconnect power to mainboard\ncheck if we have same voltage on mainboard terminals\nthen check if we have 12v on the fan terminal (40 * 10 fan shall run all the time on the hotend)\n\n\nif that is done and we have power provided to the mainboard then we need to check for 5V that powers the arduino mega2560 (that could indicate a faulty power regulator)\n\nSelect one of the available sockets and measure voltage on VCC and GND pins. If we have 5V then we can connect pheriperials one by one, always switching off PSU and disconnecting USB.\n\nIf one of the underlying components is faulty then you will see straight after powering the mainboard.\n\n\n\nimage source\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5736,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,K Mmmm,2.1782824847157594,4.061710330865922,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Removing protopasta conductive PLA skirt from a bed,\"I have a simple printer bot metal with a heated bed, the heated bed I am not using. I am using conductive pla by protopasta \n\nThe conductive pla is not that strong, so when I take my pieces off the board, sometimes they break. The only time it appears to be invincibly strong is when it sticks to the bed plate! I cannot get the skirt off the bed plate, no matter what I try\n\n\na razor blade does not work, even when the bed isn’t heated and after dumping a bunch of acetone on the board\nusing no skirt does not work, as the printer clogs itself\nit is difficult enough to remove to the point that printing itself isn’t fun\nwhen scratching it off, the pieces only chip, because they stick better to the bed than they do to themselves (unlike PLA)\n\n\nWhat’s a good way to remove a conductive pla skirt from one of the beds? The skirt is the initial outline a printer lays down, it is very thin\n\",mac,\"I have no experience with your printer model nor with protopasta conductive PLA but since your problem is \"\"too much adhesion\"\" I would simply suggest to follow in reverse all the usual advices on how to make the first layer adhere better (a far more common problem). The list of suggestion could be:\n\n\nPrint fast\nDo no squash the first layer (see @fred_dot_u answer)\nMake sure the part fan is on\nReduce the temperature slightly\n...\n\n\nThe problem could also be due to the chemical interaction between the surface of your plate and the specific material (for example: it is known that glass - a relatively difficult surface to use with PLA - bonds so well to PETG that sometimes it chips off the bed when you remove the print). If this is the case you could for example cover your bed in painter's tape and see if the protopasta conductive PLA adhere worse to it than to the bare bed. Worst case scenario, you could remove the tape with the print and scrub it off from it afterwards with a metal brush or a bit of sandpaper.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n5736,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,K Mmmm,2.1782824847157594,4.061710330865922,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Removing protopasta conductive PLA skirt from a bed,\"I have a simple printer bot metal with a heated bed, the heated bed I am not using. I am using conductive pla by protopasta \n\nThe conductive pla is not that strong, so when I take my pieces off the board, sometimes they break. The only time it appears to be invincibly strong is when it sticks to the bed plate! I cannot get the skirt off the bed plate, no matter what I try\n\n\na razor blade does not work, even when the bed isn’t heated and after dumping a bunch of acetone on the board\nusing no skirt does not work, as the printer clogs itself\nit is difficult enough to remove to the point that printing itself isn’t fun\nwhen scratching it off, the pieces only chip, because they stick better to the bed than they do to themselves (unlike PLA)\n\n\nWhat’s a good way to remove a conductive pla skirt from one of the beds? The skirt is the initial outline a printer lays down, it is very thin\n\",PR90,\"I think the setting having the most significant effect would be to increase the Z-height by 0.05-0.1mm so that the skirt is not \"\"sandwiched\"\" against the bed like typical first layers in FDM. This should reduce the adhesion enough for you to remove the skirt from the bed without damage. \n\nAlternatively, you could also increase the skirt extrusion width if possible (more material=stronger) and/or print another layer of skirt on top (skirt layers=2).\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5868,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,K Mmmm,2.528907649931287,3.5763854504390626,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Any family of plastics / filaments that bend and keep their shape?,\"Not asking for a product recommendation, unless there's only one product out there like this...\n\nI have a need for a flexible filament that retains its deformation, kind of like silly putty. Are there any filaments out there that, after you bend or stretch them, they keep their shape?\n\nI'm sure to some degree flexible filaments do this -- Which filament might be best? Commenters -- what's the scientific term for this? \n\nActually, metals exhibit this type of flexibility. Do any of the 3D printable metal filaments flex, bend, and keep their shape?\n\",cmm,\"To have a material be \"\"flexible\"\" and retain the shape after the \"\"flexing\"\", you need to apply a stress in excess of the elastic deformation stress. You will want a material that has the elastic deformation limit that is much lower than the ultimate tensile strength. Unfortunately, for plastics, this is difficult to find.\n\nMost plastics are made up of tightly bound, long-chain molecules. Flexing beyond the elastic limit requires breaking these bonds, which introduces weak points in the plastic. You can see this by bending almost any plastic. Either it will snap in two, or you will see a light or white colored line along the fold. The lighter color comes from light scattering from the broken bonds.\n\n\"\"Flexible\"\" structural plastics such as ABS are a copolymer (more than one type of molecule) in which one of the polymers is rubbery. The rubbery bits provide places within the bulk material where the stress can create strain that doesn't require breaking bonds.\n\nI doubt that any 3D-printer FDM compatible filaments will satisfy your needs. A filament must keep its shape during printing, if for no other reason than to permit the extruder drive mechanism to apply pressure to the filament. There are 3D-printable filaments, but they are very elastic and return to their shape when the stress is released.\n\nSome metals can respond to stress with by flowing rather than by elastic strain. Lead comes to mind. Someone suggested copper. There are several degrees of hardness of copper depending on the alloy and the annealing schedule after it was formed. Copper also work-hardens, becoming harder and more likely break under stress the more the copper flows under stress.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n5869,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,K Mmmm,3.9045305118418514,5.055984816031999,1.7539669625835614,5.646830619998737,3.929104701733314,3.017791098043378,Danger in 3D printing over a lithium ion battery,\"So I bought a Lulzbot Mini a couple months ago and finally downloaded Ultimaker's version of Cura... Boy... have I been missing out...\n\nOne feature Ultimaker Cura implemented that I've been looking for is a \"\"pause at z-height\"\" feature (\"\"post-processing tool\"\"). I'm building prototypes of an electronics device, and creating two pieces that snap together looks a lot worse than printing a single piece. If I could pause my print, insert my electronics, and continue printing, my device would look a lot more professional (even if it took longer to make).\n\nMy one concern is the lithium ion battery. Right now I'm printing in TPU. With a heated bed of 40 degrees Celsius, and a heated extruder at 240 degrees Celsius, there seems to be a significant risk that the lithium ion battery reaches a temperature above 60 degrees Celsius (damaging the cell, causing a potential explosion). Granted, I am not sure what \"\"60 degrees Celsius\"\" actually means. It could mean only one part of the packaging needs to reach this temperature, or it could mean the entire LiPo's internal temperature would need to reach this. In either case, the numbers don't look good.\n\nOn the other hand, the heated bed surely doesn't need to remain heated beyond the first few layers? Additionally, I can create a \"\"roof\"\" for the LiIon battery that I can slip it under, providing some insulative TPU before the rest of the device. I think the print would happen safely like this, but obviously, an explosion would be really really bad. Like it would probably burn my house down, and I would be asleep when it happened.\n\nDoes anyone have any experience doing this?\nIs there a way to turn off the heated bed mid-print? I guess I can insert a g-code line during the pause? Will this affect the remainder of the print you think?\nAm I being paranoid? Can the extruder actually pass heat through a 1–2 mm of insulation and cause an explosion?\nAnyone know how heat travels from the initial, liquid print material through the rest of the structure?\n\nAny more advice or things I should consider before pursuing this?\n\nA more specific pause type might be helpful, if anyone knows of any.\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"Although the bed may only reach 60°, the extrusion above the battery will be at closer to 200°C. Granted there will be a fairly low heat flux, but it will still cause ageing of the battery. At a minimum, some insulation or packing above the battery would seem like a sensible move. This could be printed material, and you could print over the top if you really want to seal the part.\n\nAlso remember that as LiPo cells age, they generate gas (this is designed to be trapped in the pouch) and swell. You should try and avoid any risk of puncture if this happens.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5869,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,K Mmmm,3.9045305118418514,5.055984816031999,1.7539669625835614,5.646830619998737,3.929104701733314,3.017791098043378,Danger in 3D printing over a lithium ion battery,\"So I bought a Lulzbot Mini a couple months ago and finally downloaded Ultimaker's version of Cura... Boy... have I been missing out...\n\nOne feature Ultimaker Cura implemented that I've been looking for is a \"\"pause at z-height\"\" feature (\"\"post-processing tool\"\"). I'm building prototypes of an electronics device, and creating two pieces that snap together looks a lot worse than printing a single piece. If I could pause my print, insert my electronics, and continue printing, my device would look a lot more professional (even if it took longer to make).\n\nMy one concern is the lithium ion battery. Right now I'm printing in TPU. With a heated bed of 40 degrees Celsius, and a heated extruder at 240 degrees Celsius, there seems to be a significant risk that the lithium ion battery reaches a temperature above 60 degrees Celsius (damaging the cell, causing a potential explosion). Granted, I am not sure what \"\"60 degrees Celsius\"\" actually means. It could mean only one part of the packaging needs to reach this temperature, or it could mean the entire LiPo's internal temperature would need to reach this. In either case, the numbers don't look good.\n\nOn the other hand, the heated bed surely doesn't need to remain heated beyond the first few layers? Additionally, I can create a \"\"roof\"\" for the LiIon battery that I can slip it under, providing some insulative TPU before the rest of the device. I think the print would happen safely like this, but obviously, an explosion would be really really bad. Like it would probably burn my house down, and I would be asleep when it happened.\n\nDoes anyone have any experience doing this?\nIs there a way to turn off the heated bed mid-print? I guess I can insert a g-code line during the pause? Will this affect the remainder of the print you think?\nAm I being paranoid? Can the extruder actually pass heat through a 1–2 mm of insulation and cause an explosion?\nAnyone know how heat travels from the initial, liquid print material through the rest of the structure?\n\nAny more advice or things I should consider before pursuing this?\n\nA more specific pause type might be helpful, if anyone knows of any.\n\",Simon Richter,\"There is an option to directly insert extra commands at a specific Z height, no need to enter them manually.\n\nThat said, it is a bad idea to turn off the heated bed while printing, because this will often detach the object from the bed completely (that's kind of the point of having the heated bed in the first place: better adhesion while printing, and easier removal afterwards).\n\nI wouldn't print over a battery to enclose it, not just because it is likely to damage the battery, but also to keep the battery exchangeable. Enclosing the rest of the design in a case is possible, but normally it is easier to print two separate parts that can be screwed together through a hole in the PCB.\n\nSo, experience: it's not worth it usually.\n\",3.367452517504837,2.0769199823829045\n10410,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,K Mmmm,1.726248027126092,3.5267987966466157,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.265283966335819,\"What part is this? Circular threading spool gear, about 10 mm diameter\",\"How should I describe this part which looks like a small gear so that I can research replacements?\n\n\n\nThis came with my FLSUN 3D printer, which may be based on a Prusa design.\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"This is a timing belt pulley.\n\nSpecifically, is a GT2 timing pulley, 2 mm pitch (between teeth), 6 mm wide. The drive diameter is measured by the number of teeth (16 in this case) , the shaft diameter (bore) is measured in mm.\n\nThe 'GT2' part refers to the tooth profile, some other examples are shown half way down this page.\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n10410,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,K Mmmm,1.726248027126092,3.5267987966466157,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.265283966335819,\"What part is this? Circular threading spool gear, about 10 mm diameter\",\"How should I describe this part which looks like a small gear so that I can research replacements?\n\n\n\nThis came with my FLSUN 3D printer, which may be based on a Prusa design.\n\",K Mmmm,\"It is an \"\"aluminum timing pulley\"\"\n\nhttps://www.google.com/search?psb=1&tbm=shop&q=aluminum%20timing%20pulley&ved=0CAMQr4sDKAFqFwoTCMis1KHmiuMCFRoMswAdMqUElxAB\n\nhttps://www.ebay.com/i/152446519860?chn=ps&var=453435947176\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10538,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,K Mmmm,3.0576060275493275,3.7217012100104734,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,How to post-process G-code to make prints faster using splines and arcs?,\"Recently (in 2017) there was a paper that got some publicity by researchers who are using a B spline algorithm to reduce vibrations in 3D printers. But before them, a B Spline implementation seems to have been first been made open-source by an alias named DeepSoic here. I would like to be able to print faster using the method described in the research paper, through post-processing G-code. I'm pretty sure these two sources use basically the same technique but I could be misunderstanding things.\n\nBasically instead of stopping and starting for travel moves, speed changes are done in a curvy fashion, so the head never stops and the printer never shakes. This makes the print smoother and also faster. I think printing 10 times faster is something that is really awesome once you try it. Laser cutting relies on cubic splines for a different reason; to create curves in space. But it seems like these techniques are doing something unique to to 3D printing -- using them to adjust head acceleration/de-acceleration to create smoother movement arcs of the print head. Since laser cutters have a constant head movement, this technique wouldn't help them much.\n\nThe downside seems to be that it makes way more G-code commands, overloading the USB port, since it's sending all the points on a curve so quickly. I'm assuming a smart person today would really only use it through an SD card (which has disadvantages) or if they bought a 3D printer with a free Wi-Fi module thrown in (which also has disadvantages). Maybe a high baud rate helps.\n\nI was wondering if there are any more established ways to use this obviously extremely important and beneficial and simple algorithm. Initially I was thinking that this is obviously something that should be added as a checkbox in a slicer, and not something to be implemented in Marlin. But after writing this post I realized that a Marlin implementation would allow you to use this technique over USB, but only if the slicer steedleaders are also using its special G-codes for this optimization. I don't care if it's a post-processing technique like the research paper's or a special Marlin-friendly version, I just want to use this technique even if I have to use this Huawei Wi-Fi module.\n\nBasically I would like to know the best way to get started using this technique through a slicer or other software.\n\n\n\nI think there is a miscommunication between users of CNC laser cutters and users of 3D printers. In laser cutting the arcs are used to define the path of the cut, which would be equivalent to filament extrusion. In laser cutting, the motion of the laser itself is constant. But in 3D printing, arcs can be used to smooth the speed of the printhead as it moves across the perimeter, and then to infill. It is using arcs for controlling the head well which isn't a problem in laser cutting. Since it's about the head movement, and not the model itself, I don't see how the STL file really matters.\n\nIt's really about using an arc to set head speed (a first derivative of position). Not anything about the shape of the model (which would just be position). At least that's my interpretation.\n\nThe Wi-Fi module is interesting because it receives an IP address from my router, then my router stops listing it as a connected device. But it still connected, because I can access it wirelessly. I am going to look into it more once I can fix some other problems with this dual-head. But so far there's a reason to think it might be backdoored.\n\",0scar,\"I would have liked to answer linking to credible official sources, but I cannot add references either on direct B-spline printing. So I'm writing down my thoughts. I've familiarized myself in B-splines to understand what they are and read into the 2 references given by the OP.\n\n\n\nBasically, the printer software only allows printing of straight lines. Yes I know we can give orders to the printer to print a curve (using G2 or G3), but these eventually will be converted to printing straight lines. There is no ready made printer firmware available to print cubic curves directly to my knowledge. If it would be possible, these curves should eventually be translated into smaller straight lines by the firmware of timed stepper rotational output. These extra calculations would demand a considerable effort of the printer board processor, most probably far more an 8-bit processor would be able to handle.\n\nComparing the paper released in 2017 to the G-code pre-processing software reveals that although both seem to refer to B-spline techniques, they are implemented differently. For example, the pre-processing software aims to reduce the linear travel moves by replacing these with B-spline curves (and not affect the actual print object), while the paper focuses on the optimization of the actual printing curves being optimized by B-spline curves (also using a pre-processor). Both eventually would need to create a multitude of small straight lines to have the printer be able to actually print the object as there is no 3D printing firmware solution to print curves. Do note that the method in the paper has been questioned by the RepRap community, which demonstrated that they could print the same object way faster than the B-spline optimized example. Furthermore, do note that the Marlin community is probably moving in that direction as can be seen from e.g. this feature request and this G-code meta overview; G-code instruction G5.\n\nSo, both methods rely on pro-processing G-codes by identification of sliced coordinate (print) moves, translation into Bézier/B-spline curves for (print) moves, which eventually are translated into normal G0/G1 (print) moves. It does not appear that the Marlin community/developers are aiming to implement Bézier or B-spline curves soon. This implies that if you want to pursuit printing B-splines, you need to make your own pre-processor, or dive into Marlin C++ development; an 8-bit based printer board would not be sufficient indeed like the OP mentioned, up-scaling to 32-bit or interfacing with USB might be the only solution.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n10538,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,K Mmmm,3.0576060275493275,3.7217012100104734,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,How to post-process G-code to make prints faster using splines and arcs?,\"Recently (in 2017) there was a paper that got some publicity by researchers who are using a B spline algorithm to reduce vibrations in 3D printers. But before them, a B Spline implementation seems to have been first been made open-source by an alias named DeepSoic here. I would like to be able to print faster using the method described in the research paper, through post-processing G-code. I'm pretty sure these two sources use basically the same technique but I could be misunderstanding things.\n\nBasically instead of stopping and starting for travel moves, speed changes are done in a curvy fashion, so the head never stops and the printer never shakes. This makes the print smoother and also faster. I think printing 10 times faster is something that is really awesome once you try it. Laser cutting relies on cubic splines for a different reason; to create curves in space. But it seems like these techniques are doing something unique to to 3D printing -- using them to adjust head acceleration/de-acceleration to create smoother movement arcs of the print head. Since laser cutters have a constant head movement, this technique wouldn't help them much.\n\nThe downside seems to be that it makes way more G-code commands, overloading the USB port, since it's sending all the points on a curve so quickly. I'm assuming a smart person today would really only use it through an SD card (which has disadvantages) or if they bought a 3D printer with a free Wi-Fi module thrown in (which also has disadvantages). Maybe a high baud rate helps.\n\nI was wondering if there are any more established ways to use this obviously extremely important and beneficial and simple algorithm. Initially I was thinking that this is obviously something that should be added as a checkbox in a slicer, and not something to be implemented in Marlin. But after writing this post I realized that a Marlin implementation would allow you to use this technique over USB, but only if the slicer steedleaders are also using its special G-codes for this optimization. I don't care if it's a post-processing technique like the research paper's or a special Marlin-friendly version, I just want to use this technique even if I have to use this Huawei Wi-Fi module.\n\nBasically I would like to know the best way to get started using this technique through a slicer or other software.\n\n\n\nI think there is a miscommunication between users of CNC laser cutters and users of 3D printers. In laser cutting the arcs are used to define the path of the cut, which would be equivalent to filament extrusion. In laser cutting, the motion of the laser itself is constant. But in 3D printing, arcs can be used to smooth the speed of the printhead as it moves across the perimeter, and then to infill. It is using arcs for controlling the head well which isn't a problem in laser cutting. Since it's about the head movement, and not the model itself, I don't see how the STL file really matters.\n\nIt's really about using an arc to set head speed (a first derivative of position). Not anything about the shape of the model (which would just be position). At least that's my interpretation.\n\nThe Wi-Fi module is interesting because it receives an IP address from my router, then my router stops listing it as a connected device. But it still connected, because I can access it wirelessly. I am going to look into it more once I can fix some other problems with this dual-head. But so far there's a reason to think it might be backdoored.\n\",user77232,\"In more practical terms, you could design the part so that the corners are rounded (also known as fillets). This will help keep the print head moving and would prevent the sudden stop and start effect that causes \"\"jerking\"\". Further 8 bit controllers tend to get saturated when reading large amounts of g-code from the sd card or the serial port. Upgrading to a 32 bit controller will prevent that kind of jerking.\n\nBoth of these methods pale in comparison to just speeding up the print. Upgrading the hardware to be faster (various methods exist) would yield more of a reduced time than trying to optimize the g-code (in my humble opinion). Delta printers have the potential to be the fastest type of FDM printer, assuming that you could get the filament to melt fast enough.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10669,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,K Mmmm,2.1782824847157594,3.171906017490645,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,What is stepper motor binding? (When belts are too tight),\"Recently I have been getting some layer shifting starting at layer one. I have had layer shifting at higher layers due to various reasons but mainly for the belts being too loose. But now I am reading that layer shifting can also be caused by belts being too tight.\n\nThe RepRap wiki page for layer shifting simply gives the mechanical reason for this as \"\"binding\"\". Can anyone explain what binding means? I thought it meant that the rails were crashing into something but apparently it doesn't. Then I thought it meant that the X and Y axes weren't perfectly perpendicular. \n\nDoes it mean that the \"\"teeth\"\" of the belts stay \"\"stuck\"\" to the gear for too long when moving in one direction? Why would this happen in one direction and not the other? Because the pulleys/gears are at different heights? Or just because of the belts being tighter? Or one of these reasons?\n\nJust trying to understand what its happening so I can debug it for my particular 3D printer. \n\",Mick,\"It is the bearings that are binding (dragging), due to lateral forces caused by over-tight belts. It may be the bearings in the stepper motors that are binding, but it is more likely to be the bearings in the idler pulleys.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10669,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,K Mmmm,2.1782824847157594,3.171906017490645,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,What is stepper motor binding? (When belts are too tight),\"Recently I have been getting some layer shifting starting at layer one. I have had layer shifting at higher layers due to various reasons but mainly for the belts being too loose. But now I am reading that layer shifting can also be caused by belts being too tight.\n\nThe RepRap wiki page for layer shifting simply gives the mechanical reason for this as \"\"binding\"\". Can anyone explain what binding means? I thought it meant that the rails were crashing into something but apparently it doesn't. Then I thought it meant that the X and Y axes weren't perfectly perpendicular. \n\nDoes it mean that the \"\"teeth\"\" of the belts stay \"\"stuck\"\" to the gear for too long when moving in one direction? Why would this happen in one direction and not the other? Because the pulleys/gears are at different heights? Or just because of the belts being tighter? Or one of these reasons?\n\nJust trying to understand what its happening so I can debug it for my particular 3D printer. \n\",user77232,\"Layer shifting basically equates to the machine not being able to get the extruder to the right location at the right time. Therefore when the command to move to location xyz is executed the machine ends up short of that location.\n\nBinding may most likely be as a result of the liner bearings sticking on the rails. Check that the carriage and bed move freely at all points. If you feel a sticking sensation at a particular point then perhaps it's time to clean and lubricate those rails. If however you feel a sticking sensation that occurs at regular intervals, then it could be a broken bearing in either the stepper or the idler.\n\nFailing that, try cutting the print speed in half. It could just be you're pushing the machine to hard. It could also be the drivers overheating and periodically shutting down while printing. If you think that's the reason then see if you can get more cooling air moving over the control board. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10881,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,K Mmmm,1.0891412423578797,3.298894097750058,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Water-cooling stepper motor with aluminum block,\"On a budget, I'm water-cooling a 3D printer. I'm using a 5V aquarium pump ($3) and about as much water as can be held in a can of chickpeas. I have a deliberate need to water cool stepper motors in the first printer, so that I can print with a high temperature filament like PEI, but on another printer I'm having some other issues with the motors that I think could be solved by better heat dissipation.\n\nWhat I am getting to is a device like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLQJKKC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_n5wzDbJD74NAG It is the perfect size for a stepper motor. My plan is to zip-tie one of these to each stepper motor and water cool it in a single path across my printer, including the hot end.\n\nCan anyone think of a reason why this wouldnt work? i just havent heard of anyone doing anything like this, but it makes sense to me as a chem minor. The specific heat of water is wayy higher than almost anything else. And it is way less noisy than fans. And it works inside an enclosure, while fans might not\n\ndo you know if I should ziptie the aluminum block to the back part of the stepper where the metal is, or to one of the darker black sides?\n\nWould i be able to 3D print a cooling block like this instead of paying for it? No, right? it should be metal to transfer heat better? \n\",user77232,\"Your solution will not cool all sides effectively. Firstly don't use zip ties; get thermal tape.\n\n\n(https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Interface-Products-Heat-Sink/dp/B00QSHPH8E/\n\nSecondly, the heat will need to travel around the outside of the motor to get from the side that doesn't have the water block. Its expensive but you could use Pyrolytic Graphite Sheets to wrap around the outside of the motor, to get the heat to the water block faster.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10891,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,K Mmmm,1.0891412423578797,3.745101023865115,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Weird temperature reading using thermistor on MKS GEN L v1.0 AUX-2 analog pins,\"Temperature is showing about 680 °C at room temperature. When I make it \"\"hotter\"\" by holding my thumb and index finger on it, the temperature does increase. So it is responding to temperature changes.\n\nI'm trying to add some thermistors to my MKS GEN L v1.0 board:\n\n\n\nI'm using the A11 pin and GND in the picture above. \n\nThe thermistor works correctly when plugged into the HE1 temperature pin. So the thermistor is fine hardware-wise.\n\nThe thermistor is set to be the \"\"Chamber\"\" thermistor in Marlin 1.1.x. This just means it is supposed to record the temperature of the enclosure. I don't know if there is some kind of volatility issue with the chamber constant in Marlin.\n\nThe thermistor has the same settings in Marlin for both HE1 and the chamber one. They are both set to \"\"thermistor 11\"\" for the 3950 type of thermistor. So the most visible setting implies they should be treated the same firmware-wise.\n\nI've also tried the other extra Analog pins in the AUX-2 port.\n\nWhat could be the issue here? \n\nIf these are the only available analog pins, how can I add more thermistors to my set-up so that they're available in Marlin?\n\nIs there any way I can use the AUX-1 port? It doesn't seem to be an analog pin like in the photo for this particular version of RAMPS. I tried pin A3 but it didn't work.\n\",towe,\"Thermistors, commonly used as temperature sensors on 3D printers and other DIY things, work by changing their internal resistance depending on the temperature.\n\nOn the analog ports, the microcontroller can determine the voltage of the connected signal.\n\nTo actually measure the resistance - and thus temperature - of the thermistor, you need to build a voltage divider:\n\n\n\nMost, if not all, 3D printer control boards use a resistor of 4.7 kOhms and a capacitor to build this voltage divider:\n\n\n\nYou'll need at least this 4.7 kOhm resistor to get your thermistors working on any analog pin, if the three thermistor ports on the MKS Gen L don't suffice for you needs.\nYou could also use other temperature sensors, especially for the case, like the DHT11 or DHT22, however I couldn't find whether they're supported by Marlin yet.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n11410,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,K Mmmm,2.528907649931287,2.541486592782186,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Chamber heating using hysteresis in Marlin,\"Is anyone using hysteresis with their chamber in Marlin?\n\nI have read bang-bang with hysteresis is possible when using a bed heater. I would like to do that for chamber heating. I have some lamps that can't keep flicking on and off so rapidly around a setpoint - this causes the bulb to die out faster and the noise is annoying.\n\nSteps to Reproduce:\n\n\nStart with fresh Marlin Firmware bugfix 2.0\nEnable chamber temperature in Configuration.h (TEMP_CHAMBER_PIN 1)\nSet chamber hysteresis value to 2 in Confgiuration_adv.h (#define TEMP_CHAMBER_HYSTERESIS 2). Enable #define CHAMBER_LIMIT_SWITCHING in Configuration_adv.h. Decide on pin to use for your heater, if necessary\n\n\nExpected behavior: I would like, when I set my chamber to 30 °C, the chamber lamps to come on until 32 °C, and to stay off until 28 °C.\n\nActual behavior: chamber heater lamps flick on and off at 30 °C (29.9 - on, 30.1 - off).\n\",K Mmmm,\"It does work, but you need to reset EEPROM memory once updating the firmware, if you had it enabled, so the values are transferred into the EEPROM and subsequently used.\n\nTo reset EEPROM, send the following command in your 3d printer terminal.\n\nM502\n\nThen, save the firmware default settings\n\nM500\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5743,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kevin Mauro,3.618048892289167,4.330699985605404,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.878685800062712,Platform support up to a certain Z height in Ultimaker Cura/G-code,\"Ultimaker Cura offers a platform support type of “touching buildplate” which enables the printer to only make a raft for parts of the object that should be touching the build plate. It also offers “everywhere” for any object that might be hanging over the build plate.\n\nI have a need to only offer support for overhangs up to a certain z height, such any overhang located at a z-point of 4 mm or below. Is there a software that will enable this, either as a setting/addition to Ultimaker Cura or just a G-code export for Pronterface?\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"As an alternative, look into 3D modelling tools which allow you to add your own support towers to the model itself. Do that, then set your slicing tool to \"\"no support\"\" or equivalent. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5743,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kevin Mauro,3.618048892289167,4.330699985605404,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.878685800062712,Platform support up to a certain Z height in Ultimaker Cura/G-code,\"Ultimaker Cura offers a platform support type of “touching buildplate” which enables the printer to only make a raft for parts of the object that should be touching the build plate. It also offers “everywhere” for any object that might be hanging over the build plate.\n\nI have a need to only offer support for overhangs up to a certain z height, such any overhang located at a z-point of 4 mm or below. Is there a software that will enable this, either as a setting/addition to Ultimaker Cura or just a G-code export for Pronterface?\n\",mac,\"\n Is there a software that will enable this?\n\n\nI don't own a copy of it, but from talking with other 3D printing enthusiasts, I know simplify3d is the slicer out there with the most granular control over support structures.\n\nI'm unaware if it has a setting for exactly what you want, but I know it has the possibility to manually add support in selected parts of your model, so - depending on size and complexity of your model, and on the level of accuracy you need - it may well be an option for you.\n\nIt is proprietary, commercial software with a \"\"no question asked\"\" refund policy.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5748,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,begginer3,3.0576060275493275,4.250397338565229,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,At which point does a delta 3d printer change the G-code in order to work in its non-cartesian design?,\"For example, to make a DIY cartesian 3d printer you could use/do the following:\n\n\nCreate G-code using a program of your choice.\nLoad it into Universal G-code Sender (GRBL).\nPass it into an Arduino with GRBL.\nThe arduino can pass the instructions to the drivers through a GRBL arduino uno shield.\nThe drivers will control the steppers.\n\n\nIf you want to make a DYI delta 3d printer, which point of this whole process needs to be altered in order for the delta printer to work properly? Is there an existing open source software for delta printers/cncs?\n\nEDIT: This question could be asked about any kind of non-cartesian 3d printer, including Delta, SCARA, Polar, etc.\n\",cmm,\"Every 3D printer or machine tool that is commanded through G-code must interpret the G-code in terms of the particular mechanism. Even a Cartesian machine in which there is a clear X, Y, and Z axis, each with independent actuators, interprets the G-code and adjusts for the scale factors, considers the current kinetic energy and the implicit changes in the kinetic energy, and constructs a move plan to implement the G-code. This involves considering the velocity limits, the acceleration, the jerk, and possible higher derivatives. This plan is passed to the motor drivers, and the mechanism responds.\n\nA delta mechanism is really the same. The difference is that there is not a distinct X, Y, and Z axis, even though the commands in the G-code are given in Cartesian coordinates.\n\nMy second 3D printer is one I designed using standard hot ends and extruders. I'm using the reprap firmware, and haven't adequately studied the kinematics.\n\nMy first milling machine, however, was a delta machine with 3 additional degrees of freedom -- a machine style generically called a parallel-kinematics inverted Stewart platform. In my kinematics code, I plan a movement by breaking the Cartesian command into small enough segments that the non-linearity of the 6-axis movement space never exceeds the tiny error of the actuators. I developed a CPU-intensive but effective calibration system that estimates the errors that I introduced when building it, and so the mechanical performance is good enough. The machine itself is a 5'x6'x6' frame of welded steel, so it is pretty dimensionally stable.\n\nA delta 3D printer is simpler because there is no control over the roll, pitch, and yaw of the hot end. Unfortunately, not being able to control also means that you are subject to whatever errors are introduced in the construction.\n\n\"\"Bed-leveling\"\" of a delta printer consists of estimating some of the machine-unique parameters and compensating for their effects: cup, bowl, ripple, and tilt. Applying these adjustments is done in the kinematics code as a further modification of the G-code Cartesian parameters to the leg-space delta mechanism motions.\n\nTL;DR\n\nThe G-code is not modified, but the parameters expressed in the G-code are adjusted and interpreted in light of the machine kinematics so that the intention of the G-code can be faithfully followed.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5748,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,begginer3,3.0576060275493275,4.250397338565229,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,At which point does a delta 3d printer change the G-code in order to work in its non-cartesian design?,\"For example, to make a DIY cartesian 3d printer you could use/do the following:\n\n\nCreate G-code using a program of your choice.\nLoad it into Universal G-code Sender (GRBL).\nPass it into an Arduino with GRBL.\nThe arduino can pass the instructions to the drivers through a GRBL arduino uno shield.\nThe drivers will control the steppers.\n\n\nIf you want to make a DYI delta 3d printer, which point of this whole process needs to be altered in order for the delta printer to work properly? Is there an existing open source software for delta printers/cncs?\n\nEDIT: This question could be asked about any kind of non-cartesian 3d printer, including Delta, SCARA, Polar, etc.\n\",mbmcavoy,\"The short answer is that the handling of the non-cartesian design is done by the motion-control firmware running on the Arduino.\n\nThe long answer:\n\nI don't believe GRBL supports non-cartesian designs, and it is not commonly used for printers. It is more often used for mills, routers, or laser machines. 3D printers will typically use a firmware such as Marlin, which supports several printer designs, including Delta machines.\n\nAt no point is the g-code itself changed. The motion control firmware running on the Arduino or other controller interprets the g-code and determines which way and when to step each motor to accomplish the motion.\n\nWith a simple cartesian machine, commands for the X-axis only relate to the X-axis motor, but for a non-cartesian machine the axis and motors have complex relationships. The firmware must be programmed and configured to control the motors correctly.\n\nThe g-code itself is never passed to the drivers. The commands to the driver are simple electrical signals to \"\"enable\"\" (to energize the motor power - even to just hold position), \"\"direction\"\" (which way to rotate the motor shaft), and \"\"step\"\" (which causes the motor to rotate by one step in the selected direction).\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n5754,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dusodesign,2.8153892694839717,5.0723052087795715,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Problem with print bed height on Creality Ender 4,\"I am a novice to 3D printing and have encountered an issue that I cannot seem to solve. Hopefully someone here can point me in the right direction.\n\nI have a Creality Ender 4 that I purchased a few months ago and up until about 4 weeks ago, it worked great. I had moved it from its original place and in doing so, something became amiss in the firmware as it would no longer heat up the print bed either manually or by sending print commands via USB. The SD card slots would also give errors when trying to print from an SD card. So, after doing some research, I ended up flashing the firmware in hopes that it would reset any of the hiccups I was having.\n\nThis both did, and did not, work. I tried MK4Duo, but apparently there was no support for my auto bed leveler and the bed was coming up and hitting the nozzle tip when I tried to print. I switched and uploaded Marlin 1.1.8 which seems to have solved the non-functionality of the auto leveler, but it has caused a new problem that I just can't solve.\n\nNow, when I try to initiate a print, the bed will not raise high enough. It stops, either when I set Z to home, or try to print, at about one quarter of one inch from the tip of the nozzle. Of course, at this point when the print starts, the extruded filament just comes out in mid-air like toothpaste and curls up all over the bed. I can manually push the bed higher to the point it needs to start at, but it still drops too low when I try to print.\n\nI am comfortable enough in using Arduino to try to correct the problem in the firmware (if it is a firmware problem), but I'm just not sure where I need to look or what I need to adjust. If someone would be kind enough to assist me in tracking down some possible places to look, or what might be causing this, I would be extremely grateful! I want to be able to print again!\n\",0scar,\"Moving a printer would most likely affect the hardware rather that the software. Unless you have tinkered with the software over USB or loaded an unknown G-code file over SD card that has embedded G-code commands that change your settings.\n\nThe most likely solution is that the printer or parts of the printer shifted as such that the printer is not aligned anymore as it used to be. Re-calibrating the machine should fix that for you.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5756,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,RBasniak,3.0576060275493275,3.1652291071264176,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,3D scanner data acquisition,\"I found an old Creaform3D EXAscan laying around at the company I work for, and tried to plug it on a computer to see if it still works. \n\nI discovered that it uses a software called RapidForm for data acquisition, but its license is expired.\n\nI looked in the manufacturer site for drivers or something similar but there isn't anything.\n\nIs there any other software or way to read the data coming from such scanner? \n\",Trish,\"The Creaform EXAscan is according to the manufacturer a laser based machine. This means that it determines data points and their positions by some triangonometry done with a laser, 32.000 times a second, resulting in very high density point clouds. This demands a powerful program to work with.\n\nAt some point, your company used Rapidform, which costs a wooping 10 to 30 grand for a license. Other software in this niece are - according to a solidworks thread - Geomagic and PolyWorks. The gist of the thread seems to be that these \"\"big 3\"\" were the best ones at the market in 2011. However I have no idea if they work together with the given hardware or what the later two cost.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5756,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,RBasniak,3.0576060275493275,3.1652291071264176,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,3D scanner data acquisition,\"I found an old Creaform3D EXAscan laying around at the company I work for, and tried to plug it on a computer to see if it still works. \n\nI discovered that it uses a software called RapidForm for data acquisition, but its license is expired.\n\nI looked in the manufacturer site for drivers or something similar but there isn't anything.\n\nIs there any other software or way to read the data coming from such scanner? \n\",entropicCreator,\"So if the original manufacturer still exists, (which they appear to, and even list your scanner under 'legacy' products) your best chance of getting it working is going to be to contact them directly. Using proprietary hardware WITHOUT the associated proprietary software can range from merely tedious but possible, to outright impossible, depending on the specific company. Oftentimes with tech products like this, the business model isn't about the product itself, but about the license fees for the software to use it. That they can charge yearly for. It's possible that the raw data is just a stereo camera file with extensions renamed, and equally possible that the firmware in the scanner will do some sort of check for valid license before it will even start scanning, they don't really have much info on their legacy products on their page\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5760,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,linuxdan,3.618048892289167,4.376775599610133,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,3.6337541582048245,Why is a heated bed important?,\"I hear that heated beds can help with removing finished prints, but not all printers have them! \n\n\nIs this a nice to have or must have feature? \nAre there any downsides to heated beds?\n\n\",Mick,\"It can help with bed adhesion. However, most 3D printing plastics will warp without a heated bed (since they shrink as they cool). ABS is notorious for this, although PLA is not so bad, and you can get away without a heated bed for small parts. ABS is so sensitive that you may need a heated (or at least draught-proof) enclosure, as well as a heated bed. If you are considering buying a 3D printer, it is best to get one with a heated bed, unless you are on a very restricted budget. If you buy a printer without a heated bed, you will soon realise that you need one.\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n5760,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,linuxdan,3.618048892289167,4.376775599610133,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,3.6337541582048245,Why is a heated bed important?,\"I hear that heated beds can help with removing finished prints, but not all printers have them! \n\n\nIs this a nice to have or must have feature? \nAre there any downsides to heated beds?\n\n\",0scar,\"I'll try to give it a shot as the other answer (perfectly sound answer b.t.w.) does explain \"\"how\"\" we use heated beds, but not \"\"why\"\" they are actually needed for good prints.\n\nPlastics or polymers are mostly amorphous (no macro crystalline structure) and usually relatively hard and brittle at low temperatures (this is referred to as \"\"glassy\"\"). By increasing the temperature of the plastics the state of the material changes as it becomes soft and more ductile (called the viscous or rubbery state). The temperature at which this transition takes place is called the \"\"glass transition temperature\"\". It is this temperature where you would heat your bed too (or close to this temperature). Below the glass temperature, the expansion is reduced/low because the polymer chains cannot move easily due to the closer packing and stronger inter-molecular forces; increasing the temperature increases the expansion lowering inter-molecular forces. The difference in stress between the bed and your print is therefore reduced (as of the expansion of the heated polymer).\n\nThis explains why we use heated bed to get the prints to stick to the bed. To answer your question why it helps in removing prints is that when the temperature is lowered, the polymer gets back into its \"\"glassy\"\" state, shrinks a bit and automatically loosens the print from the bed. \n\nIndeed for printing PLA you can print without a heated bed, but for materials with a higher glass transition temperature and higher printing temperature it's almost a must to have. Downsides of heated beds are that they require a lot of power and when improperly installed lead to burned wires and connectors. It's usually wise to strain relief the wires from the bed and use proper gauge silicone leads and connectors.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n5768,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,linuxdan,2.8153892694839717,4.711590406775814,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Should I print in a well ventilated area?,\"With hot plastic being laid down layer after layer, I am worried about fumes. Should I only print in a well ventilated work space? Should I add additional ventilation?\n\",mac,\"The short answer is: yes, it is always a good idea to print in a well-ventilated area. The longer answer can be articulated as follows:\n\nDefinition of \"\"fumes\"\"\n\n\"\"Fumes\"\" is a fuzzy word that from a chemical/physical perspective includes at least three different things:\n\n\nVapour - the gas phase of a substance\nAerosol - a airborne suspension of tiny particles of liquid, solid, or both\nSmoke - particles and gases emitted when a material undergoes combustion or pyrolysis (so really: a smoke is a combination of vapours and aerosols too... but the combustion/pyrolysis will have changed the very nature of the material, so it will be \"\"vapours and aerosols of a different substance\"\"\n\n\nInteractions with the human body\n\nEach of the above has a different way of interacting with the human body. The list of possible interactions is huge, and out-of-scope for this answer, but just to mention a few obvious ones:\n\n\nVapours tend to enter cells by osmotic pressure and can have carcinogenic effects by either attacking the genome of the cell or by disrupting its metabolic processes (think: benzene in car fuel)\nAerosols can trigger the immune system, and in return have the body develop allergies or autoimmune reactions.\nAerosols can deposit their particles on the cellular membrane, making it impossible for it to operate correctly and eventually fail (like neurons failing to transmit electrical impulses, for example)\n...\n\n\nComposition of filaments\n\nModern filaments are a combination of different substances: the basic plastic (PLA, ABS, PETG...) that gives the name to the filament is almost always mixed with other plastics and additives that change its physical characteristics.\n\nIn some cases, the filament is host to particles of other materials (like wood, metals or phosphorescent compounds).\n\nEach of the different materials have different transition and critical and flash points (the temperatures at which they will become vapour and ignite respectively), and different physical properties which in turn will affect differently the size of the particles in the aerosol coming out of the printer.\n\nConclusion\n\nThe bottom-line is that it is close to impossible to have a complete understanding of how a given \"\"fume\"\" affects human health.\n\nTypically the safety of a substance is tested in a lab by directly observing its effect on cells, or by performing epidemiological studies in a population, if the exposure data to a given substance is known.\n\nWhen people comment on PLA being \"\"safe\"\" for example, they typically refer to studies that tested inert, cold, chemically pure PLA. But the fumes of a PLA filament will probably not be inert, nor cold, nor be exclusively PLA.\n\nAdditionally, it has to be observed that it is much easier to rule a filament harmful than safe: for it to be considered harmful it is sufficient to know that one of its components is harmful (for ABS that is typically studies showing the adverse affect of ABS aerosols on health). For it to be deemed safe, one must know that all if its components are safe, but most filament do not go through the rigorous testing required to ascertain that.\n\nIn conclusion, it is always a good idea to get rid of the fumes from 3D printing regardless of the type filament being used. The ideal solution is a printing enclosure maintaining negative pressure, but an enclosure with air filtering or a well ventilated room are also good options (ventilation can have adverse effects on printing quality though, due to drafts and their cooling effect).\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5768,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,linuxdan,2.8153892694839717,4.711590406775814,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Should I print in a well ventilated area?,\"With hot plastic being laid down layer after layer, I am worried about fumes. Should I only print in a well ventilated work space? Should I add additional ventilation?\n\",John Freeman,\"There are some contradicting sources out there on whether plastics, especially ABS, have toxic fumes. It is well known that PLA is food safe, as it is an organic, biodegradable polymer being based on a particular cornstarch. This means that PLA is safe when printing, although it can produce foul smells from the dyes and other ingredients. As for the other plastics, it is most commonly said that the fumes are toxic, although, as stated earlier, there are some contradicting topics on this.\n\nHere and here are some articles for further reading.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5866,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,linuxdan,3.267423727073639,4.34759906355837,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,How to change the voltage on a FLSUN QQ,\"I just bought a FLSUN QQ and the instructions say I need to change the voltage from 220 to 110. Sadly the instructions don't say how to do that. Can anyone tell me how to do it?\n\",linuxdan,\"I don't know if this is the case with all FLSUN QQ printers, but mine was indeed set to 220v as the instructions/user manual indicated. First I needed to remove the bottom of the printer. Then there was a switch on the side of the power supply with the following label:\n\n\n\nI know the picture is terrible, but the lighting inside the base of the printer was less than optimal. It should be pretty easy to find once you know what you're looking for. \n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n5892,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,linuxdan,2.1782824847157594,4.024506721533562,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.488653845767225,How long will my print take?,\"If I have a stl file is there a good way to estimate how long it will take to print on a given printer? I know there are a lot of things that go into print speed, such as the speed of the printer, the size of the print, etc. I was wondering if anyone knows of perhaps an application that you could enter your printer's specifications and the stl that you want to print, and it could calculate the print time?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"All commonly used slicers (e.g., Cura, Slic3r, Simplify3D,...) give an estimation of the print time.\n\n\n\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5892,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,linuxdan,2.1782824847157594,4.024506721533562,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.488653845767225,How long will my print take?,\"If I have a stl file is there a good way to estimate how long it will take to print on a given printer? I know there are a lot of things that go into print speed, such as the speed of the printer, the size of the print, etc. I was wondering if anyone knows of perhaps an application that you could enter your printer's specifications and the stl that you want to print, and it could calculate the print time?\n\",Pommie,\"I use Repetier software with the Cura slicer and the print time estimate tends to be about 10 % longer than the actual print.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6055,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,linuxdan,3.267423727073639,4.627470863460945,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.9376260060201658,How do skirts aid print bed adhesion?,\"In cura one of the options under \"\"build plate adhesion\"\" is \"\"skirt\"\", which seems to simply print a loop around, but not touching, my print. How is this supposed to help my prints stick to the bed?\n\",theGarz,\"The skirt will only prime the nozzle, which is something really important for the first layer adhesion.\nUsusally the first layer has slightly more material (or a lower height) respect to the other layers, and this is done mainly to push the most material against the plate, and this will give adhesion. Without a proper priming of the nozzle this just won't happen everywhere.\n\n\n\nFrom the Simplify3D guide:\n\n\n Adjustments to the First Layer Height allow you to vary the amount of pressure the filament exerts against the bed. There are actually two ways to adjust the height and pressure:\n \n Percentages under 100% will reduce the height of the layer being printed (with no change to the extrusion amount). For example, if you entered 75%, your first layer height is reduced while your extrusion remains at 100%. Another way to think of this is that 100% of your extrusion will be forced into a space that is 75% of the layer height. This reduction in height generates extra pressure and more surface area for that layer, which will help the first layer adhere to the print bed.\n \n In other cases, using a percentage above 100% is helpful. For example, if you are printing at very fine layer heights, such as 0.05mm, a tiny variance in your bed leveling can result in poor first layer adhesion. Using a First Layer Height well above 100% can be extremely helpful in these cases. Many machines benefit from 200 or 300% for the first layer height when the layer height is 0.05 mm or 0.1 mm. The increased thickness of the first layer can help absorb small defects in the build plate and provide more surface contact area, which will result in better first layer adhesion.\n\n\nImho, the life is too short to print at 0.05mm, and my printer doesn't show bed issues, therefore i'll go with less than 100% first layer height.\n\nI don't have the standard cura settings available, and i also think that with different 3d printers with different filaments it makes only a little sense to discuss about \"\"cura standard settings\"\". In any case, my very standard standard settings are: 0.2mm layer height, 0.15mm first layer height. With these settings and some hairspray on the glass i almost forgot about model pop off in midprint.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n6055,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,linuxdan,3.267423727073639,4.627470863460945,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.9376260060201658,How do skirts aid print bed adhesion?,\"In cura one of the options under \"\"build plate adhesion\"\" is \"\"skirt\"\", which seems to simply print a loop around, but not touching, my print. How is this supposed to help my prints stick to the bed?\n\",athomitron,\"Skirts prime the nozzle- getting the filament to first adhere to the build platform is necessary for the entire print. Once the filament starts to stick it usually will continue to. \n\nSkirts can also help block any air drafts that might blow the filament away from adhering in the 1st layer of the print\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6329,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,linuxdan,2.528907649931287,3.2707264231908733,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Print quality of Kossel clone for Print in Place models,\"My first printer is Delta style Kossel clone and I have bad luck with Print In Place (PIP) models, especially with hinges. I suspect that my printer just can't achieve low enough tolerances to make the hinges work. \n\nAre there any tricks I can employ to get better prints for PIP models?\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"It is possible that your printer is over-extruding, and this will certainly give less satisfactory results when you try to print models which have internal clearances. \n\nIt is also possible that you have some calibration issues which affect orthogonality, x/y/z dimensions or flatness in each axis.\n\nIn terms of general improvements, slower and maybe cooler might help - but before jumping in with difficult models, how are your 'standard' print test parts coming out?\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6329,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,linuxdan,2.528907649931287,3.2707264231908733,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Print quality of Kossel clone for Print in Place models,\"My first printer is Delta style Kossel clone and I have bad luck with Print In Place (PIP) models, especially with hinges. I suspect that my printer just can't achieve low enough tolerances to make the hinges work. \n\nAre there any tricks I can employ to get better prints for PIP models?\n\",0scar,\"Delta printers are considered to be able to be accurate printers cause of the limited weight in the head (using Bowden extruder setup). The positioning can be very accurate (limited weight, limited overshooting) and because of the limited amount of weight, the print speed can be increased.\n\nAn interesting paper has been written on a comparative study between a Cartesian and a Delta machine. The paper concludes that the Delta style printer produces \"\"a better surface finish\"\". However, I'm a bit skeptical as the images of the Cartesian printed part they have printed are of far less quality I can produce with 2 of my printers. Fact is that Delta machines have no Z-wobble (also called banding) that is a common problem with Prusa i3 style printers for instance.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6470,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,linuxdan,3.0576060275493275,3.8082347013731885,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.306096197889172,What prints can I do to test/calibrate my printer for precision?,\"I specifically want to test \n\n\ncalibration\ntolerances\nprecision\naccuracy\n\n\nI'm having trouble with Print in Place models and I'm trying to find out if there's something I can do to improve my print quality. \n\nThe printer I am using is a Kossel clone, specifically a FLSUN QQ and assume FDM printing.\n\",0scar,\"Any print you make can be considered a test print! But, specific test prints are easily found on the internet and lend themselves better for specific tasks. In order to improve your printer / print quality, you need to follow a meticulous series of tests and record the parameters you use to slice the model. Each test should be broken down into several print process parameters (and recorded) and tested for their effects (e.g. speed and temperature).\n\n\n\nA general accepted strategy is to calibrate the extrusion process first and that look into the general accuracy.\n\nFilament deposition calibration\n\nAn important aspect of printing is deposition of just enough filament (if you deposit too much the lines become wider, and so are the dimensions). To calibrate the extruder deposition of filament you can easily heat up the hot end, mark the filament with respect to a certain reference point and extrude e.g. 100 mm. Now measure the filament mark again with respect to the reference point to verify you actually extruded that same demanded amount.\n\nAccuracy\n\nFor general accuracy printing of 20x20x20 mm cubes is usually fine. Note that the print accuracy is generally determined by the printer (construction) itself, but can be influenced by print speed. Large speeds in combination with a large mass of the printer head can lead to positioning inaccuracies (like overshoot). That said, you should also look into the printer itself. Does it have play? Are the belts tight enough, but not over-tightened? Is the bed skew, or are XYZ perpendicular? \n\nThis cube is frequently used to calibrate the dimensions:\n\nPlease do note that the poster of this picture probably produced a dimensional accurate print, but still faces under extrusion (as seen from the gaps between the lines)\n\nIf dimensions seem to be off reasonably, e.g. more than 0.2 mm (depending on the printer construction) you could change the amount of steps per mm in the firmware. Do note that the steps per mm is mechanically determined by the belt and pulleys.\n\nMore tests?\n\nEven more tests can done to make specific filament adjustments. E.g. \"\"temperature towers\"\" can be printed to test the optimal parameters for filament flow and / or bridging (printing in air between two parts), or overhang (unsupported parts of the print). But, these last tests are not specifically designed for the issues you mentioned.\n\nTolerance test\n\nOnce you have calibrated the printer to the ability of yourself and to the capacity of the printer itself you could try to print a dimensional printing tolerance test. Such tests are usually constructed by cylinder shaped (or diabolic shaped) objects in a housing that is slightly larger that the shape.\n\n\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n6470,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,linuxdan,3.0576060275493275,3.8082347013731885,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.306096197889172,What prints can I do to test/calibrate my printer for precision?,\"I specifically want to test \n\n\ncalibration\ntolerances\nprecision\naccuracy\n\n\nI'm having trouble with Print in Place models and I'm trying to find out if there's something I can do to improve my print quality. \n\nThe printer I am using is a Kossel clone, specifically a FLSUN QQ and assume FDM printing.\n\",nebogipfel,\"The best place to start looking is to go to Thingiverse and search on 'benchmark'. There are a great many models there intended to test various aspects of printing. In fact you could search for example 'calibration benchmark' or 'calibration test' and get more specific examples.\n\nActually, here is a collection I just made today of the benchmarks I thought most promising. Disclaimer: I haven't tried them yet!\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7345,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,linuxdan,3.9045305118418514,5.071477665892867,2.7799718631987322,2.011441651225199,4.620985695623129,5.187014399342012,How does one use a heat tower?,\"I've been asking around on how to choose the right temperature for a given filament. I noticed that with two different brands of pla I have to print at different temperatures, and the manufacturer specifies a broad range of print temperatures. \n\nI keep hearing about heat towers, and have found various examples on thingiverse. \n\nMy question is how do I actually print one? And then, how do I judge the results?\n\",0scar,\"When you slice an STL of a heat tower, you need to tell the slicer that you need a different temperature at a certain level and maintain that new temperature until another change is requested.\n\nThe way I usually do it is by using a post processing script in Ulltimaker Cura, but you can do it yourself quite easily by changing the G-code file manually.\n\nTo get it to work in Ultimaker Cura is to:\n\n\nopen a heat tower STL model onto the virtual build plate,\nchoose the correct print settings, e.g. fan speed, print speed, layer thickness, etc.,\nnow navigate from the main top menu bar Extensions -> Post Processing -> Modify G-Code,\nselect Add a script and choose ChangeAtZ,\nyou now are presented with an option (called Trigger) that you can change options at either a certain Height or at a certain Layer No. number, you decide what you want to use based on the model and layersize used, but height can be chosen safely when you know the height changes in the heat tower model\nset a certain height at which you want to change the print properties by specifying a height in option Change Height,\nnow put a checkmark in Change Extruder 1 Temp (be sure that the box Behavior is set to Keep value so that it maintains this value until you specify otherwise, else it is only valid for a single layer),\na new input box will be presented to you where you can enter the value of the extruder,\nrepeat this adding of \"\"changes at certain height\"\" e.i. instances of ChangeAtZ until you have specified all the temperatures for all the levels\nnow slice the model (if not done automatically) and save the G-code file for printing.\n\n\nIf you look into the generated G-code file (the snippet below is taken from a G-code file for an Ultimaker 3) you will see that the post processing script will add extra lines in your G-code file. E.g. the following snippet shows you 2 changes of temperature, one at 5 mm (extruder 1 @ 250 °C), the other at 10 mm (extruder 1 @ 245 °C):\n\n...\n;LAYER:48\nG0 X93.4 Y132.161 Z5\n;ChangeAtZ V5.1.1: executed at 5.00 mm\nM117 Printing... ch@ 5.0\nM104 S250.000000 T0\n...\n...\n;LAYER:98\nG0 X93.4 Y132.35 Z10\n;ChangeAtZ V5.1.1: executed at 10.00 mm\nM117 Printing... ch@ 10.0\nM104 S245.000000 T0\n...\n\n\nThe bottom line is that the extruder needs to be instructed to be heated or cooled to a new temperature. This is also something you could have inserted yourself manually by adding the codes M104 SXXX.000000 T0 at specific levels where XXX is the extruder temperature you need for that level.\n\nBasically this describes how to print the heat tower calibration prints, not the selection of the settings (e.g. extruder temperature) to use for your prints. When you created the print file you are ready to print the tower and observe the quality of printing. You can look at the print and visually inspect the temperature giving you the best aesthetic performance, the best overhang performance, the best \"\"filling\"\" performance, highest speed, etc. It is you that decides what is best for your application. Alternatively you could print some coupon tests and see which are structurally the best. Please note that additional towers for different settings like layer height, print part cooling and print speed to may be necessary to optimize the print process.\n\n\n\nSidemark, I prefer the use of parametric models (e.g. in OpenSCAD) over the STL models found on the internet, this way I can embed the exact printer setting in the tower for reference. See e.g. this answer.\n\n\n\",3.9604314711224866,2.0769199823829045\n9915,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,linuxdan,2.8153892694839717,4.009039896389174,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,What makes an extruder right handed?,\"I have been looking to buy a new extruder. One of the options I have seen comes in \"\"right handed\"\" and \"\"left handed\"\". What does this mean? How can I tell what my current extruder is, so I get the right replacement?\n\",darth pixel,\"when thinking about righ-handed extruder or left-handed extruder it's good to know that there is no magic or any other science rule behind this naming convention. it's just an arbitrary explanation which can be unfortunately misleading. in fact there is visual explanation of this left / right handed name and it doesn't have anything to any \"\"the right handed rule\"\" mentioned in other answers.\n\nit's just this\n\n\n\nno physics... no magnetism... no induction... no vectors and no formulas\n\nthe other answers present pictures of LH and RH extruders which are of course fine but be careful - there are universal extruders which can be both L or R handed. \n\nlike this one\n\n\n\nas this extruder has fully fixed filament path and there is no restriction which direction the filament should go - there is no way to describe it arbitrarily\n\nit is left-handed when it works as left-handed and it is RH when it works as RH\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n9915,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,linuxdan,2.8153892694839717,4.009039896389174,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,What makes an extruder right handed?,\"I have been looking to buy a new extruder. One of the options I have seen comes in \"\"right handed\"\" and \"\"left handed\"\". What does this mean? How can I tell what my current extruder is, so I get the right replacement?\n\",0scar,\"The short answer to identify what extruder type you have is the rotation of the extruder gear. \n\nCCW rotation to extrude = right-handed extruder\n\nDetailed explanation is below.\n\n\n\nIn addition to the other answers, the right-handed designation comes from math and pysics convention that has become a well known mnemonic in engineering practice:\n\n\n\nor in its physics coat,\n\n\n\n\n The Right Hand Rule: Figure (a) shows a disk is rotating counterclockwise when viewed from above. Figure (b) shows the right-hand rule. The direction of angular velocity ω size and angular momentum L are defined to be the direction in which the thumb of your right hand points when you curl your fingers in the direction of the disk’s rotation as shown.\n reference\n\n\nIn a right-handed extruder, \n\n\n\nyou place your thumb of your right hand in the direction of the shaft (so pointing it towards yourself in the image of the extruder above) to see that rotation in the direction of your curved fingers leads to extrusion of filament (in counterclockwise direction).\n\nFor a mirrored extruder they call it left-handed extruder.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n10334,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,linuxdan,1.0891412423578797,2.4524811080749744,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Vacuum storage bags?,\"Does anyone use \"\"space saver\"\" style vacuum storage bags to keep fillament dry? I picked up some Ziploc space bags, but they are larger than ideal. Would probably fit 2.5 spools. I would love a smaller version just big enough for one spool.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"I have a commercially available product known as a foodsaver (TM) which removes the air from the bag and really squeezes tightly around the spool. The width of the bags I use barely takes the typical spool but it does fit with a little elbow grease.\n\nI include a bag of desiccant in each bag to pull any residual moisture.\n\nIt's a good idea to use the cut-to-length bags on a roll, which allows you to add excess length, as you have to cut and toss away the previous seal each time you use the spool.\n\nI too purchased the big honking bags and never built the structure I planned to use with it.\n\nSo many compromises regardless of the method used. I've since switched to Sealtite Storage Bins from Target. They have a gasket around the lid and I've increased the bag of desiccant in each one. They stack well too.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10334,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,linuxdan,1.0891412423578797,2.4524811080749744,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Vacuum storage bags?,\"Does anyone use \"\"space saver\"\" style vacuum storage bags to keep fillament dry? I picked up some Ziploc space bags, but they are larger than ideal. Would probably fit 2.5 spools. I would love a smaller version just big enough for one spool.\n\",0scar,\"I've read people are using them, makes sense, the less air you contain, the less moisture would be in the bag. Myself, I'm using IKEA ziplock bags (and moisture absorbing sachets), they come in many sizes.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10963,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,linuxdan,3.0576060275493275,3.2764534681924653,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.548335113978322,3.9829738809469584,When should I replace the nozzle on my printer?,\"I have what I assume to be a brass nozzle, and I only print in PLA. I am starting to have some issues with first layers and stringing. I'm wondering if I should replace the nozzle. What signs should I look for to know when to replace the nozzle?\n\",0scar,\"Replacing the nozzle depends on many things,\n\n\nthe nozzle material (copper/brass, steel, hardened steel, Olsson Ruby Nozzle),\nthe type of filament you print,\nhow frequently you use the 3D printer. \n\n\nTo replace a nozzle, there are probably a few reasons for doing so. A nozzle can wear out (see: How to identify nozzle wear; not only from the friction of standard filament, but especially when used with abrasive filament like glow-in-the-dark PLA, and glass or carbon fibre filled filament) causing the outer shape and the inner nozzle diameter to change size. This can result in lower quality prints or difficulty in getting the print to stick to the bed. Having a metal wire or drill bit of the diameter of the nozzle will tell you if the hole itself has worn out. Sometimes, a visual inspection may sometimes be enough for you to tell that it has worn out: \n\n\n\n(source: filament2print.com)\n\nPlease note that an interesting video is posted by Stefan from CNC Kitchen on nozzle wear:\n\n\r\n \r\n \n\nNozzles can collect burned particles inside, partly clogging the nozzle, causing the extrusion to be non-ideal. A sign for this is when the filament is not leaving the nozzle straight when freely extruded at height, but curls up.\n\nFurthermore, when used frequently, nozzles can get coated with filament which is sometimes hard to remove. This sometimes causes freshly extruded filament to stick to the nozzle, certainly if it curls up like mentioned before.\n\nNote that nozzles are very cheap with respect to the complete assembly and replacing them is a matter of 2 minutes work. So if you're unsure about how to improve the quality of printing after having tried fixing flow rate and nozzle to bed height, you could replace the nozzle, see e.g.:\n\n\n\n(source: The 3D Print General)\n\nDepending on the quality of the nozzle and the filament, a nozzle replacement for one brand might be necessary much sooner than for another printer. E.g. my Ultimaker 3E has literally printed kilometers of PETG without the need to replace the nozzle (or \"\"core\"\" as it is called for this printer), while the brass nozzle of my first cheap, now dust collecting, Anet A8 printer has been replaced a few times.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n5762,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,sandeep kumar,0.0,3.4985313852019835,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Arduino and Ramps powering up,\"i want to run 2 stepper motor using arduino mega 2560 and ramps 1.4 and somehow i got by arduino burned while connecting motor when i plug the board to computer.my questions are\nCan i plug external power supply and USB connection to computer at the same time?\nplease help.\n\",IanCaz,\"I had a similar issue building my Prusa i3 Mk2s clone. I was constantly hooking & unhooking my Arduino from my PC while the printer was plugged into the mains. At some point it had enough & it released some \"\"magic smoke\"\". Later on I found out this was the power regulator on the Arduino.\n\nYou shouldn't need to plug in the USB and the external power to the Arduino at the same time, but if you did, it is smart enough to only use one.\n\nThat being said, by default the RAMPS passes 5V straight to the Arduino to power it (using the Vin pin).\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5782,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,sandeep kumar,1.726248027126092,4.03211099847769,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Can I use external stepper motor power and USB connection,\"I have a RAMPS 1.4 with Arduino Mega 2560 with 2 steppers connected to an external power supply using Polulo stepper drivers. The steppers are for X and Y axis movement. This external power supply is set to 12 volts and power is applied. I have configured the marlin firmware also.\n\nCan I connect my setup to my PC using USB when the external power is also on?\nIf i connect the USB while the external power is off, do the motors take power from USB? Will this will burn my board?\n\",profesor79,\"The motors are powered from 12/24V external power supply, so the motors will not be powered. \nthe ramps Schematics shows the connection diagram and the power is provided via the VMot pin/12V.\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5788,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,sandeep kumar,0.0,2.229769214286525,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Using ramps on-load,\"I have a RAMPS 1.4 with Arduino Mega 2560 with 2 steppers connected to an external power supply using Polulo stepper drivers. The steppers are for X and Y axis movement. This external power supply is set to 12 volts and power is applied. I have configured the marlin firmware also.\n\nCan I connect my setup to my PC using USB when the external power is also on? If i connect the USB while the external power is off, do the motors take power from USB? Will this will burn my board?\n\",Hussein Fawzy,\"Can I connect my setup to my PC using USB when the external power is also on?\nAs long as you are connecting the external power to the correct pins, yes you can.\n\nIf i connect the USB while the external power is off, do the motors take power from USB?\nNo, the motors need an external power supply.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5765,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Franc Navarro Cifani,3.267423727073639,4.698149995695971,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Mains powered heatbed safety,\"I'm building a 40x40x40cm corexy and I am quite impatient so I want the heated to reach the target temperature as fast as possible, so I ordered a Keenovo silicone heater\nIt is a 220VAC 1200Watt bed, so I really want to make sure that it is safe to use.\nI also bought a Crydom D2450 SSR.\n\nCould someone tell me if the wiring in the diagram I made below is safe?\n\nDo I need to put a fuse or some other kind of safety?\n\n\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The most important thing is the following: make sure that any exposed metal surfaces of your printer are properly grounded. This includes the frame if it is made of metal, or the aluminium plate you might use as your heated bed. In the event of a fault, having the metal surfaces grounded protects you from getting shocked when you touch the printer. If any surfaces are aluminium, be aware that the oxide layer that forms on aluminium does not conduct very well, so make sure that you get a good connection.\n\nYou should consider adding a thermal fuse or bimetallic switch to the heated bed so power gets cut in case the bed overheats (to protect against the relay failing closed or firmware errors).\n\nIn principle, if the wires used are thick enough (capable of carrying at least 16A), then there is no need for a fuse. Assuming you are in a normal European household, then the mains line will already have a 16A fuse. If your printer connects to the mains using a IEC C13 connector (kettle lead, very common) then you should have a fuse rated (at most) 10A somewhere because this is the maximum rating of the connector. For a very small amount of added safety, you could use a lower-rated fuse instead (for instance 7A) but this is not required. Your heated bed can draw up to around 5A so you can't use a fuse lower than (or equal to) that. If you are indeed using an IEC socket to connect your printer to the mains, then it might have a fuse holder (or try to find a socket that does).\n\nYour image suggests two possible fuse positions. It would be advisable to place the fuse near the live/hot connection, but as European power sockets are non-polarized, this is essentially a moot point.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5765,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Franc Navarro Cifani,3.267423727073639,4.698149995695971,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Mains powered heatbed safety,\"I'm building a 40x40x40cm corexy and I am quite impatient so I want the heated to reach the target temperature as fast as possible, so I ordered a Keenovo silicone heater\nIt is a 220VAC 1200Watt bed, so I really want to make sure that it is safe to use.\nI also bought a Crydom D2450 SSR.\n\nCould someone tell me if the wiring in the diagram I made below is safe?\n\nDo I need to put a fuse or some other kind of safety?\n\n\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"The diagram you show is in compliance with the manufacturers' specifications so far as connections go. Make sure any wire you supply is rated for the voltage and current intended for use.\nIf there is not a safety cover (typically clear plastic) over the junctions where you'll be attaching wires, you should add a cover, or alternatively put the entire relay inside a UL-rated box with stress-release feedthrus for all the wires.\nIt never hurts to add a fuse or breaker in the source hot feed. I'd recommend slow-blow. NEVER fuse the return side, since a fault or blown fuse here will leave everything live and floating\n\nThat said, this is more of an electronics question than a 3D printer question, so you might want to wander over to electronics.stackexchange for information on general design safety for high-current systems like this. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5856,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Franc Navarro Cifani,1.726248027126092,4.033998938665071,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Robotdigg linear guide not smooth motion,\"I recently bought the MGN12H linear guide and rail from robotdigg, which is supposed to be the copy of the Hiwin.\nI have noticed that the motion is very smooth when moving fast, but if I move it very slowly, it gets stuck and the motion is not smooth at all. I think this will cause problems on my prints once I assamble the printer.\nAm I missing something? Should I put some king of oil on the balls?\n\",Adrian Maire,\"Difficult to say with the given data, but here are a couple of ideas:\n\nFirst theory: \n\n\n The belt is too thin/flexible for the linear guide.\n\n\nLinear guides remove the backslash by adding quite some pressure in the ball system: The block is slightly too small (compared to the rail) and thus it compress the balls and rail. The backslash is avoided until you reach this force. \n\nThis pressure require a little bit of force to move the block along the rail, so if your belt is too thin or flexible, the belt will start to move until the elasticity of the belt reach the force required to move the block, then the block move a little bit and stop again. \n\nIn a fast movement, your block never get to stop, while in a slow movement, it has time to start and stop. Maybe what you feel like \"\"not a smooth movement\"\"\n\nIf you identify this case, I suggest you the following solutions:\n\n\nLubricate correctly the guide, this could be enough to reduce the issue to an acceptable level.\nChange the belt to a larger one, with fibre glass inside (not only rubber).\nIf I am correct, the \"\"H\"\" of your MGN12H stand for the pressure of the block. H is for high pressure, switching to a C is far enough for a 3D printer and will reduce the drag.\n\n\nSecond theory: (Thanks to FernandoBaltazar)\n\n\n You got some dust, rust inside\n\n\nRemove the belt and move the block with the hand, if you are able to feel the movement is not smooth, then it's probably this case.\n\n\nAdd some grease (Never in your life use cooking oil)\nClean the dust of the rail and exterior of the block\nMove the block from one side to the other of the rail until the movement become smooth.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n5790,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,NLed,2.8153892694839717,4.734324726815768,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,What's the best way to clean PETG residue from a magnetic steel sheet PEI?,\"I have the MK3 with a magnetic PEI and some PETG residue is stuck on the surface. How can I remove it? Does acetone work?\n\nThanks\n\",Andy Levesque,\"First you will want to verify that what you are seeing is remaining PETG and not a loss of PEI on your bed. In many cases, when PETG is used without a separating agent (window cleaner or glue stick), the PETG forms a stronger bond to the PEI than the PEI has to the bed. This causes the PEI to lift off the bed. You can often recognize this by seeing a spot of higher smoothness where the print was stuck rather than the more matte look elsewhere on the print bed. \n\nIf it is truly PETG left on the sheet, first try a firm use of a fingernail. If that does not work, you can attempt to use acetone or 1000 grit sandpaper (which also work to restore PEI). A careful use of a spatula can also be used to remove the material. \n\nIn subsequent prints of PETG, you will want to add a separator when printing PETG. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6706,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,NLed,2.8153892694839717,4.287833586072355,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,How can you calibrate extrusion multiplier value in Slic3r WITHOUT changing printer settings in memory?,\"Most tutorials ask you to change the printer settings using the The command M92 E420 will set the new value which can be saved to memory (so that it is available after a printer power off/on cycle) using M500.\n\nBut I just want to modify the Extrusion Multiplier in Slic3r's settings. It's default at for each filament, and I'd like to modify this by adding a profile for each roll I have after calibration.\n\n\n\nWhat's the best way to do this? If I measure extruding 100mm and checking how much is left, what is the formula used to get the new EM value?\n\",Davo,\"Divide the amount overextruded by the desired amount. If you wanted 100mm but got 101mm, that's 1mm extra, or 1% over. Use an extrusion multiplier of 0.99 (1% under) to compensate - AND THEN DO ANOTHER TEST to confirm.\n\nThis modifier will be used by Slic3r to generate E values in your gcode without flashing anything. \n\nI recommend saving this recipe with an intuitive name, like Acme Green PLA.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n7154,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,NLed,-1.0891412423578797,4.168757767375456,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,1.878685800062712,What is the best way to print a coin with depth map?,\"If I have an image like the one attached, what’s the best way to create an accurate depth map of it? I have photoshop CC and 3ds Max, but I don’t know what settings work best with Slic3r. There is a plethora of settings and combinations to choose from in either programs. \n\nDid anyone do this before? If so, can you share your technique?\n\n\n\",cmm,\"If you have a depth map (a raster file with the height at each point), OpenSCAD has the ability to read the height map and create a 3D object. That 3D object can then be exported as an .STL file, and sliced normally.\n\nI have done this (maybe 3 years ago), and it worked well.\n\nThis site includes a list of available tools. I probably used one of these, as I could easily convert my particular depth map to a PNG or other image file.\n\nOnce the file is in STL format, you can choose how best to print it for your printer.\n\",0.0,0.0\n7154,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,NLed,-1.0891412423578797,4.168757767375456,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,1.878685800062712,What is the best way to print a coin with depth map?,\"If I have an image like the one attached, what’s the best way to create an accurate depth map of it? I have photoshop CC and 3ds Max, but I don’t know what settings work best with Slic3r. There is a plethora of settings and combinations to choose from in either programs. \n\nDid anyone do this before? If so, can you share your technique?\n\n\n\",0scar,\"From a single image from this perspective (front view) you cannot map the coin surface in detail. There is reported limited success in estimating the depth of single images, but, this is for images with a clear perspective (e.g. like a picture of a room showing the walls and floor at an angle). In order to map the surface you will need to have multiple images and preferably know the direction of lighting on that object.\n\nPeople with one eye cannot estimate depth very well, you need two eyes and a trained brain to understand the differences in depth.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n5791,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jack,1.726248027126092,4.193093767256731,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Monoprice Select Mini v2 reattach boden tube to feeder head,\"I have a Monoprice Select Mini v2. \n\nThe Bowden tube has detached from the filament feeder head... it was actually pushed out by the filament (175 PLA) as it fed. It appears to have been held in place by a compression fitting inside the feeder head. I think the blue plastic collar provides the compression but I hesitate to attempt to remove it for fear of making matters worse.\n\nLooking for advice on getting the Bowden tube and compression fitting back together without wrecking the feed\n\",profesor79,\"I had a similar issue with my bowden feed system, those could be the reasons:\n\n\nthe pneumatic connector is not keeping the pressure on the pipe -> replace\nthe Teflon pipe is faded/worn -> try to cut the end of the pipe\nthe hotend/nozzle is clogged -> clean/replace\nthe pipe is excessively bent and gives a lot of resistance -> that usualy needs pipe/tube replacement.\nthe nozzle temp is to low -> increase printing temperature\n\n\nIn some cases I had to cut the tube above the pneumatic connector and push it down to get it out as there was no way to pull it back from the collar.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5796,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dmitry Minaev,3.267423727073639,4.910222640849449,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Full steps mode for Z axis stepper controller,\"I have a Cartesian style 3D printer (FLSUN Cube), with two Z-axis stepper motors (1.8°, 200 steps/revolution) with T8x8 lead screw (8mm / 2mm pitch with 4 starts), and currently they are using 1/16 microstepping.\n\nAs I know, microstepping is an unstable state and can affect accuracy of the Z-axis. But many of modern 3D printers (like CR-10, Prusa i3 Mk2s and others) use similar microstepping for the Z-axis.\n\n\nIs it possible to use full steps? \nDoes it improve accuracy if I use compatible layer height (like 0.04mm, 0.08mm, 0.16mm, etc) for my printer with 0.04mm per full step on Z axis?\n\n\",0scar,\"Focussing on the questions at hand:\n\n\n Is it possible to use full steps?\n\n\nThis depends on your printer board. Many boards use dip switches to select the (micro) stepping mode of the stepper driver. E.g. a RUMBA board has dip switches located underneath the stepper driver boards (e.g. DRV8825 or A4988). Sometimes you also see jumper caps. The answer is both yes as is no as it depends on the board you are using.\n\n\n Does it improve accuracy if I use compatible layer height (like 0.04mm,\n 0.08mm, 0.16mm, etc) for my printer with 0.04mm per full step on Z axis?\n\n\nIncreasing the number of microsteps results in reduced incremental torque (for full step this is 100%, for 16 micro steps this drops to about 10%; this implies that a micro step requested by the controller may not effectively lead to an actual step as it cannot overcome the torque to turn the shaft). So highly loaded steppers could result in positioning errors. Resolution increases but accuracy will actually suffer. Furthermore, Few, if any, stepper motors have a pure sinusoidal torque vs. shaft position and all have higher order harmonics that in fact distort the curve and affect accuracy. according to this source. On the other hand micro stepping makes rotation go smoother (major advantage, see source). Interesting literature (must read) is this test and this paper. \n\nThe answer to this question also depends on the situation; when you load the steppers very highly, using micro stepping may result in more inaccurate movement compared to full stepping. When you use the lead screws native resolution for your setup, only when the stepper is actually at the full step position, you would benefit as in this position it will not dwell to the next full step as it is already in the stable position.\n\n\n\nAs a side remark I've added the correct calculation of the native resolution of your lead screws. From your question I deduce that you have Tr8x8(p2) lead screws. \"\"Tr\"\" for trapezoidal thread, followed by the nominal diameter in mm. The digit after the \"\"x\"\" tells you how much the nut advances per revolution, this is called the lead of the screw. The value between the brackets \"\"p2\"\" denotes the pitch. This means that the screw has 8 (lead)/2 (pitch) = 4 starts. So with every revolution of the stepper (200 steps) the nut advances 8 mm which translates to 8/200 = 0.04 mm per step of 1.8°.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n5800,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Osmani,2.1782824847157594,4.265349585185877,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Homing a stepper motor as an extruder using E0/E1 with an limit switch and end stop,\"Note: I have extended my question as some of you mentioned that the question is not clear.\n\nI am using a RAMPS 1.4 board with an Arduino mega 2560. I need to drive a stepper motor as an extruder using either E0 or E1. I am using Repetier-Firmware and can drive the extruder (stepper motor) using the E0 (RAMPS 1.4). \nNow for my application, I need to make sure that the extruder is in home position before it starts to drive for the very first time. I am trying to use a switch to connect to the end stop and perform this homing operation. I can do this for X, Y, and Z axes. I was wondering how (h/w connections and firmware modification) can I do it for the extruder?\n\",Nick Dancer,\"I think the question has already been answered(if at all possible because the question is still not clear exactly what you mean), but let me try putting this a different way.\n\nYou have to ask yourself what is homing and why are you doing it. The purpose of homing your axes is to set their 0 position in space. This then means that any subsequent movements will be relative to these 0 positions and assuming the motors skip no steps should allow accurate positioning of the head inside the build volume throughout the print. In other words their relative position should match their absolute position. As has already been stated the extruder axis does not work like this.\n\nNow I think some of the confusion from your question comes around what you mean by homing the extruder. The extruder position is defined by the previously mentioned X, Y and Z axis. The extruder axis however controls the position of the filament inside the hotend and therefore how much filament is extruded into the build volume. This axis is arbitrarily set to 0 using G92 at the beginning of the print because unlike the spacial axes the absolute position of this axis is not particularly important. Strictly speaking if you were to care about the extruder axis’ absolute position, home would probably be the start of the roll. This however is irrelevant. All that you care about during a print is that the extruder axis remains consistent throughout the print to allow accurate extrusion.\n\nSo typically at the beginning of a print you will prime the nozzle to ensure plastic is ready to be extruded as ooze from the previous print may create a delay between moving the extruder axis and plastic actually being extruded. Once the nozzle is primed however the axis position will just be set to 0 and then all future positions of that axis will be relative to where it started on the roll.\n\nHopefully that helps but if it doesn’t I think we still need more clarification of what you are actually trying to accomplish.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5800,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Osmani,2.1782824847157594,4.265349585185877,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Homing a stepper motor as an extruder using E0/E1 with an limit switch and end stop,\"Note: I have extended my question as some of you mentioned that the question is not clear.\n\nI am using a RAMPS 1.4 board with an Arduino mega 2560. I need to drive a stepper motor as an extruder using either E0 or E1. I am using Repetier-Firmware and can drive the extruder (stepper motor) using the E0 (RAMPS 1.4). \nNow for my application, I need to make sure that the extruder is in home position before it starts to drive for the very first time. I am trying to use a switch to connect to the end stop and perform this homing operation. I can do this for X, Y, and Z axes. I was wondering how (h/w connections and firmware modification) can I do it for the extruder?\n\",0scar,\"The edited question appears to mention that the actual extruders of the print head need to home / limit themselves. The answer is that this is not required. When operating direct or Bowden driven extruder setups, you know (or you can measure or find out experimentally) the distance that the filament has to travel from extruder entry to hot end (e.g. to load new filament). If already loaded, because you have printed before, you also know where the filament is (filament could stop after printing, personally I retract the filament en few mm after a print). When a new print starts you usually reverse the retraction at temperature and extrude some extra filament to prime the nozzle to counteract oozed out filament for instance. At that point, the nozzle is primed and the gcode G92 E0 is then used to tell the extruder this is the start at zero length, sort of the home position of the filament. All this is usually done in the start code of your slicer, similar to disabling bed and hot end temperature or final retract is done in the end code of your slicer.\n\nThis answer below addresses the initial question, this question was not quite clear. It was phrased as of the head containing the extruders needed to be homed correctly. The normal end-stops (can be mechanical or optical switches) already ensure that the printer head (containing the extruder or extruders) is homed correctly (if correctly configured in your printer firmware). The home offsets you define in the firmware define that you start at the origin (0,0,0). \n\nYour question does not state what firmware you use, but e.g. in Marlin firmware these settings are found in the firmware configuration file.\n\nIn this file the following is defined:\n\n// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.\n#define X_MIN_POS 0\n#define Y_MIN_POS 0\n\n\nThese values must be changed according to the offset between your switch and the origin of the heat bed (e.g. Prusa style printers have the origin at the front left).\n\nFor my Prusa clone printer I have defined:\n\n// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.\n#define X_MIN_POS -35\n#define Y_MIN_POS -12\n\n\nWhat this says is that the homing switch for the X axis is 35 mm left of the origin, etc.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5804,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,james,2.528907649931287,3.442720459815422,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Print slipped away,\"I try to configure my 3D Printer properly. \n\nI printed this boat model https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2763854 (with a scaling of 0.6):The quality of the print looks nice but at the last roof the entire print slipped away. (e.g. no adhesion between bed and print)\n\nHere are some printing configuration\n\n\nPrinter: prusa i3\nLayer Height: 0.2mm\nTop/Bottom Tickness: 0.8\nMaterial: PLA\nBed adhesion: 10mm Brim\nPrinting Temperature: 200°C\nBed Temperature: 60°C\nTravel Speed: 120mm/s\nPrint Speed: 60mm\nTop/Bottom Line Width: 0.4mm\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIs this common that the print can slip away?\nIs e.g. the raft bed adhesion a better option?\nI have read that glue could prevent the print to slip away. What kind of glue I should use?\nCould a hotter/colder heating bed prevent the print to slip away?\n\nThanks in advance\n\nEdit:\nAdded Pictures after extruder calibration (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fb7lit5ZRq4):\n\n\n\",fred_dot_u,\"If your printer is a genuine Prusa i3, MK2 or MK2.5, it will have a PEI bed which requires no additional adhesive for a model to remain properly attached during the print.\n\nThe PEI should be cleaned with denatured alcohol prior to a print. If your bed has had many prints in one location, the PEI will lose adhesion. I've recently assisted a Prusa owner to change the PEI sheet which improved print adhesion greatly. The strange aspect of that is the problem was getting the print to release, not that it would not remain attached. The user now knows to move the print location around the bed and not always in the center.\n\nIn your case, all the parameters look good, although 60mm per second is rather fast, that should not have a big effect on adhesion. \n\nPrusa printers have the ability to perform a live-z adjustment. The first layer being printed should have a slightly squished or squashed appearance. When you begin the print, use a skirt or brim to force the printer to outline the model. During that period, use the live-z adjustment to flatten the first layer, but use caution to not drive the nozzle into the print surface.\n\nFor testing purposes, consider to create a model of only 1 mm thick using the same settings. This will give you faster results on testing the live-z and getting a good bond to the bed.\n\nI use 70°C for printing PLA, but the measured temperature on my glass bed is 60°C which leads me to believe that you have a good number. The printing temperature is reasonable too.\n\n10mm brim is wide and further indicates that your adhesion may be related to first-layer nozzle height.\n\nPost-photo edit: I can see in the image provided that the first layer has large air gaps. This is directly related to either the extrusion factor or the z-height. The remainder of the model looks too good to be extrusion factor, returning my first assessment of z-height problems as more likely.\n\nYet another edit:\n\nAs best as I can determine from your printer name, you do not have a genuine Prusa i3, but rather a Geeetech prusa clone i3. As such, many things are different. My suggestion about z-height is no longer valid, as the firmware is likely to be different for your printer.\n\nI'm not a cura user, but my quick research shows that it's probably called flow percentage. Other posts on the 'net suggest that below 100% would be underextrusion. I've found a video that shows how to make your extruder match the 100% flow setting in the software. It's smarter to have the firmware represent accurate figures and the video will allow you to perform this calibration.\n\nThe z-height for your printer is related to print bed calibration. I was unable to locate anything useful to me with respect to that aspect of your printer. It appears that the bed has four leveling screws, although I'm not certain of that. If your bed leveling involves adjusting those screws, it is possible that all four (or three?) of them are too tight and have to be released a bit.\n\nIf you have bed calibration instructions, consider to perform them again, especially if you are going to adjust the extruder settings as per the previous video.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5815,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user25832,3.0576060275493275,4.503643887592587,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Filament being pushed back out the filament hole,\"I just got a Monoprice Maker Select v2 off eBay for $200 and I'm very happy with it (so far). I'm learning a lot, but I've run into this problem that I cannot solve: \n\nWhen I put filament into the extruder (it's a direct drive extruder), it works well for a minute or two and then the extruder pushes it back out the entrance hole where it should be inserted.\n\nI have no idea why it's doing this. The weird thing is when it's being pushed back out it curls up, maybe from being pushed back up and being hot? It is unclear to me why it curls. \n\nWhat I have tried:\n\n\nMultiple brands of filament but nothing is working (I'm not sure what type of nozzle is on the Maker Select v2 but I have printed a Benchy once before this with no problems);\nUnclogging - I took the cold end off and nothing looks jammed in it;\nPushed a guitar string through the hot end and no jams. \n\n\nI cannot figure out why it's doing this. \n\",Horitsu,\"Change the retraction distance, maybe you have a too long distance, that pushes the filament the whole way out. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5817,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ki.c,2.1782824847157594,3.58733573019168,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Print quality problem with M3D FDM printer,\"My model looks like this, does anyone know what's going wrong?\n\n\n\nI'm thinking that if the small object looks like that, it's probably because of the slicer? And how about the bottom part of the cube... ummmm... I really don't know\n\nI'm using an M3D printer, its own slicer and PLA at 205°C\n\nSettings: \n\n\nLayer thickness: 0.200 mm\nExtrusion width: 0.375 mm\nFilament flow: 100% -->98%\nPrint speed: 30mm/s -->42 mm/s\nRetraction amount: 2 mm\nRetraction speed: 6 mm/s\nMinimal travel before retraction: 1 mm\nRetraction z-hop: 0.150 mm\n\n\nUpdate:\n\nThe smaller object is using the same file but resized.\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHere's the calibration cube. After I've changed the filament flow to 98%, it seems that the situation became better. But, it might also be the problem of the slicer as the two object isn't the same.\n\n\n\nUpdate :\n\nHere are the settings\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSTL Files\n\n\nhttps://files.fm/f/tnu9yyaj\nhttps://files.fm/u/p5f7k6ya\n\n\",0scar,\"It appears that there are several issues with the prints. \n\n\nFirst layer too far from bed\nThe picture showing the bottom of the print clearly shows the deposited lines and gaps in between the lines. Please re-level the bed to get the print nozzle closer to the bed (usually a sheet of paper should fit between nozzle and bed without too much friction when pulled). Edit after new information: Your initial layer is definitely incorrect, a 0.4 (assuming you have a 0.4 nozzle) is too high, a rule of thumb is to not exceed about 75% of the nozzle diameter, so this should be max 0.3; this is a strong indication that your bed level is indeed to far from the nozzle. Also 1.5 mm line width for the first layer is way too high for correctly leveled bed to nozzle distance; this should be close to 0.4.\nToo much flow\nVarious pictures show zits and blobs that stick out of the print. The best solution is to calibrate your extruder. \nToo high temperature possibly/too few cooling flow\nThe deposited filament is not sharp, it looks like the filament it pretty fluid during the deposition. Please lower the temperature to 195 and or increase the part cooling flow.\nZ banding or wobble\nThe wavy walls show that the printer suffers from X-Y movement (eccentric movement) when the Z lead screws advance. This cannot be fixed easily as this involves the mechanics and the design of the printer. \n\n\nTo determine to improve the print quality you first should look at the bed leveling issue, second calibrate the extruder (see if you ask it to spit out 100 mm of filament it actually is 100 mm rather than randomly lowering the extrusion flow parameter) before you print some calibration cubes at reduced temperature and or increased part cooling flow.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5821,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Julia Miller,2.8153892694839717,2.8977288498929825,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Printing .stl file using ObJetPro 3D Printer,\"I am trying to 3D print some shells for a project, and would like them to be about 5 cm long. \n\nI created the shells in Blender and converted them to .stl files which the printer requires, but it tries to print them as 0.02 mm long. I am not printing them myself, so I have to rescale the files without access to the actual printer. I have tried scaling the object both in Blender, and when exporting them to .stl files, but can't figure out how to tell what size the printer will interpret the shells as.\n\nIs there a way to make sure I have the objects scaled properly before printing them?\n\",profesor79,\"the best way is to install slicer on your pc and open the .stl file.\nMost slicers will tell you the size of an object and there is an option to rescale resize.\n\nUsing Slic3r you will have object details in the corner\n\n\nUsing CURA you will have a detailed view in scale mode \n\n\nAlso you can use online services CLICK\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n5822,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Roger,3.267423727073639,4.698864005029297,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.4319460411998994,Is this banding?,\"Are these vertical lines described as \"\"banding\"\"?\n\nWould the most likely culprit be the extruder?\n\nFWIW, this was printed in \"\"vase mode\"\".\n\n\n\",0scar,\"Banding usually refers to Z banding and manifests itself in a wavy/non-straight wall in Z direction: \n\n\n\nThis sort of banding is related to mechanical or design issues of the printer (lead screw (nuts), belts, play, etc.)\n\nYour print, however, shows local thicker walls. It appears that these local thicker parts are related to the change in direction of the print head. A 3D printer does not print curved lines or arcs (although G-codes do exist for arc movement), all movements are straight lines. So the cylinder consists of straight lines. By rendering the cylinder with more triangels you could increase the amount of straight lines to form a better approximation of the cylinder circumference. You could also try to lower the printing speed, but since you did not post any printing parameters that will be a guess.\n\",3.2133663407215876,0.0\n5822,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Roger,3.267423727073639,4.698864005029297,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.4319460411998994,Is this banding?,\"Are these vertical lines described as \"\"banding\"\"?\n\nWould the most likely culprit be the extruder?\n\nFWIW, this was printed in \"\"vase mode\"\".\n\n\n\",Roger,\"Ok, so it turns out that this was caused by a problem in my stepper motor drivers, which results in missed steps, as described on this guy's blog\n\nThe fix was to hook up these \"\"TL Smoother\"\" modules (I got these particular ones from amazon but there are a bazillion clones)\n\nAfter hooking up TL Smoother, this is what the print looks like:\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n5827,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Roger,2.528907649931287,3.977016375913304,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Software for 3d model to arc/curve gcode?,\"Is there software that can take a solid model, e.g. in STEP format, and generate gcode that includes arc/curve commands (G2, G3, G5) when possible?\n\",0scar,\"I have been looking at this also. But I can't find a STEP to GCODE software. So the answer to your question is no, not that I'm aware of.\n\nUsing STL files, which are approximations of the actual model using triangular shapes, slicers will generate GCODE not including arc codes. I understand that either the printer controller should take care of creating the arc gcode by reading multiple lines in advance and calculate if certain consecutive \"\"straight gcodes\"\" could be replaced by \"\"arc gcodes\"\" or the generated gcode file needs to be pre-processed off-line by separate software, or post processing scripts of slicers. \n\nWith respect to reading multiple lines in advance, the 8-bit controller boards are not powerful enough to do all these extra calculations as the different firmwares already utilize the full potential of these boards.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5835,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kyle Calica-St,1.726248027126092,4.4368952903932035,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.9784382375735183,Connecting disconnected pieces in Fusion360 Stencil. Sketch entire model then extrude,\"I am trying to make stencils of Japanese Kanji characters with my 3D Printer.\n\nI am very new to Autodesk Fusion360 so I am running into some barriers: \n\n\nI am having trouble sketching a rectangle and then a text character and extruding them separately. If I extrude one they both disappear. Therefore I have to sketch one, then extrude, then create the next sketch object. \nHow can I create both sketches and select different ones to extrude? \nI am having this basic problem where my stencil has parts that are disconnected (see example below). I've tried sketching lines and thin rectangles to connect the pieces but they both didn't work. I once again can't extrude after it's created. \n\n\nHow can I connect the pieces after extruding? How can I connect them inside a text object? \n\n\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"May I suggest an alternative? Create your characters in a document editor (such as Word or OpenOffice), using a very large font size. Save the characters to an image file. Go to one of many converter sites, such as embossify or sculpteo, and let them make a 3-D model of your character.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5835,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kyle Calica-St,1.726248027126092,4.4368952903932035,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.9784382375735183,Connecting disconnected pieces in Fusion360 Stencil. Sketch entire model then extrude,\"I am trying to make stencils of Japanese Kanji characters with my 3D Printer.\n\nI am very new to Autodesk Fusion360 so I am running into some barriers: \n\n\nI am having trouble sketching a rectangle and then a text character and extruding them separately. If I extrude one they both disappear. Therefore I have to sketch one, then extrude, then create the next sketch object. \nHow can I create both sketches and select different ones to extrude? \nI am having this basic problem where my stencil has parts that are disconnected (see example below). I've tried sketching lines and thin rectangles to connect the pieces but they both didn't work. I once again can't extrude after it's created. \n\n\nHow can I connect the pieces after extruding? How can I connect them inside a text object? \n\n\n\",NomadMaker,\"As I see it, for a stencil you want the brown part with the white part(s) cut out.\n\nThis is easily doable. You can do this one sketch at a time, extrude it, and cut it out of the brown part.\n\nTo connect the inner brown parts to the rest of the brown, you'll need to cut a thin rectangle in the white character so that the inner brown pieces are connected to the outer brown pieces.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5840,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ilya Smirnoff,2.8153892694839717,5.590719308347964,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,How to change E0 to E1 on Marlin 1.1?,\"I have the same problem as this person but I don't have those lines in my RAMPS.h file as seen here.\n\nI've recently burnt my potentiometer on E0 so the motor isn't working properly anymore. I want to use it on E1 instead. If you have any better idea how to fix this instead of changing code in firmware, feel free to share.\n\",profesor79,\"the fastest way is to slice using two extruders and assign all print work to E1.\nSet the head offsets to [0,0] and that shall do the job.\n\nThe harder is to edit pins file and do remapping.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5840,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ilya Smirnoff,2.8153892694839717,5.590719308347964,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,How to change E0 to E1 on Marlin 1.1?,\"I have the same problem as this person but I don't have those lines in my RAMPS.h file as seen here.\n\nI've recently burnt my potentiometer on E0 so the motor isn't working properly anymore. I want to use it on E1 instead. If you have any better idea how to fix this instead of changing code in firmware, feel free to share.\n\",0scar,\"Another posting already discusses how you can change the pins to use spare stepper controllers for broken controllers by changing the pin layout. Assuming you are using a RAMPS board and using Marlin firmware, you should look at the pins_RAMPS.h file.\n\nThis file requires changes to address E1 to E0 and vice versa, please edit the file so that:\n\n#define E0_STEP_PIN 26\n#define E0_DIR_PIN 28\n#define E0_ENABLE_PIN 24\n#define E0_CS_PIN 42\n\n\nis changed to:\n\n#define E0_STEP_PIN 36\n#define E0_DIR_PIN 34\n#define E0_ENABLE_PIN 30\n#define E0_CS_PIN 44\n\n\nand also change:\n\n#define E1_STEP_PIN 36\n#define E1_DIR_PIN 34\n#define E1_ENABLE_PIN 30\n#define E1_CS_PIN 44\n\n\nto:\n\n#define E1_STEP_PIN 26\n#define E1_DIR_PIN 28\n#define E1_ENABLE_PIN 24\n#define E1_CS_PIN 42\n\n\nWhen the file is changed an saved, build and upload code to your board and plug the connector of the E0 stepper into the E1 header.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5962,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ilya Smirnoff,1.0891412423578797,4.508373539339313,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Problem with swapping E0 for E1 (TEVO TARANTULA MARLIN 1.1.x),\"Looking at the following code, from Line 139, pins_RAMPS.h\n\n\n\nHere is the actual code:\n\n#if ENABLED(EXTRUDER_USE_E1)\n #define E0_STEP_PIN 36\n #define E0_DIR_PIN 34\n #define E0_ENABLE_PIN 30\n #ifndef E0_CS_PIN\n #define E0_CS_PIN 44\n #endif\n#else\n #define E0_STEP_PIN 26\n #define E0_DIR_PIN 28\n #define E0_ENABLE_PIN 24\n #ifndef E0_CS_PIN\n #define E0_CS_PIN 42\n #endif\n#endif\n\n#if DISABLED(X_AXIS_USE_E1) && DISABLED(Y_AXIS_USE_E1) && DISABLED(Z_AXIS_USE_E1) && DISABLED(EXTRUDER_USE_E1)\n #define E1_STEP_PIN 36\n #define E1_DIR_PIN 34\n #define E1_ENABLE_PIN 30\n #ifndef E1_CS_PIN\n #define E1_CS_PIN 44\n #endif\n#endif\n\n\nI've already tried everything that the online community tells me to do to solve this problem, but that all doesn't help me. Almost everyone is saying that I just have to swap these lines of code and it will work, but it's not working. Any ideas ?\n\nBy the way E0 is not working because I've burnt a pot on it :)\n\",0scar,\"At first it was unclear from where the snippet you posted is taken from as it was not stated in the question (this has now been addressed by a moderator edit).\n\nDepending on the value of EXTRUDER_USE_E1 (and where and how it is set) the underlying code of the if statement will be carried out. Albeit said, swapping lines will not work, if you want to use the E1 connector of your motherboard, you have to make the printer think that it is using the E0 while it is redirecting to E1! This implies that you need to assign the pins of the E1 to the E0 extruder (so swap the pins, not the lines). This has been explained before in this topic by editing the correct pin layout file of the Marlin firmware.\n\n\n\nEDIT : Further investigation shows that you have a custom Marlin for the TEVO Tarantula and are using the fork of Marlin maintained by JimBrown (this is essential information for your question). I have looked into the files, the only thing you would need to do is define the constant EXTRUDER_USE_E1 in your configuration.h file:\n\n//#define EXTRUDER_USE_E1\n\n\nto:\n\n#define EXTRUDER_USE_E1\n\n\nSo do not swap anything. Once this constant is defined, the pin re-allocation is done for you automatically! (see the pins_RAMPS.h file)\n\nBasically, this is exactly the same as is explained in topic How to change E0 to E1 on Marlin 1.1? and hence a duplicate. ;)\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5962,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ilya Smirnoff,1.0891412423578797,4.508373539339313,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Problem with swapping E0 for E1 (TEVO TARANTULA MARLIN 1.1.x),\"Looking at the following code, from Line 139, pins_RAMPS.h\n\n\n\nHere is the actual code:\n\n#if ENABLED(EXTRUDER_USE_E1)\n #define E0_STEP_PIN 36\n #define E0_DIR_PIN 34\n #define E0_ENABLE_PIN 30\n #ifndef E0_CS_PIN\n #define E0_CS_PIN 44\n #endif\n#else\n #define E0_STEP_PIN 26\n #define E0_DIR_PIN 28\n #define E0_ENABLE_PIN 24\n #ifndef E0_CS_PIN\n #define E0_CS_PIN 42\n #endif\n#endif\n\n#if DISABLED(X_AXIS_USE_E1) && DISABLED(Y_AXIS_USE_E1) && DISABLED(Z_AXIS_USE_E1) && DISABLED(EXTRUDER_USE_E1)\n #define E1_STEP_PIN 36\n #define E1_DIR_PIN 34\n #define E1_ENABLE_PIN 30\n #ifndef E1_CS_PIN\n #define E1_CS_PIN 44\n #endif\n#endif\n\n\nI've already tried everything that the online community tells me to do to solve this problem, but that all doesn't help me. Almost everyone is saying that I just have to swap these lines of code and it will work, but it's not working. Any ideas ?\n\nBy the way E0 is not working because I've burnt a pot on it :)\n\",Alfred Hamori,\"I simply swapped the pins \n\n#define E1_STEP_PIN 26 //swapping to E1 FRED\n#define E1_DIR_PIN 28\n#define E1_ENABLE_PIN 24\n#ifndef E1_CS_PIN\n #define E1_CS_PIN 42\n#endif\n\n#define E0_STEP_PIN 36 //swapping to E0 FRED\n#define E0_DIR_PIN 34\n#define E0_ENABLE_PIN 30\n#ifndef E0_CS_PIN\n #define E0_CS_PIN 44\n#endif\n\n\nWhich worked for the basic operation, however now that I've tried to add Autoleveling it stopped moving E1 motor. My configuration.h file does not have:\n#define EXTRUDER_USE_E1\n apparently as its an older version also, just like RAMPS.h doesn't have those conditional statements.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5857,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Petar Petrov,3.0576060275493275,6.277053278003932,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.082726318457765,Z Offset on autoleveling sensor setup,\"How does Z offset (M851) work with an auto leveling sensor? Does it add the Z offset to the offset of the G29 mesh? or the G29 value replaces the M851?\n\nMy printer is an Anet A8 with marlin firmware, I was having issues with the autoleveling sensor and reset the Z offset to 0 and let G29 get the mesh offsets and its working good now.\n\nI was looking through marlin gcode page but couldn't figure out how G29 affects M851 or vice-versa.\n\nMy setup with level issues:\n\nM851 Z0\nG28 \nM211 S0 ;turned endstops off and got a paper to find the zoffset\nM851 Z-0.59\nM500\nM211 S1\n\n\nAnd G29 before printing.\n\",0scar,\"G28 instructs the printer to home itself to the X an Y endstops and the Z sensor determines the homing of the Z axis; i.e. when the sensor triggers, this is not necessarily (and most commonly) not the position where the nozzle is at Z=0.\n\nG29 determines the shape of the bed by probing the bed. This will set the shape of the bed with respect to the sensor trigger point as described earlier. The Z-offset (set by M851 Z-x.xx is needed to set the offset between the nozzle and the sensor trigger point (to the bed).\n\nThe sequence to determine the offset is:\n\nM851 Z0; // Set the Z offset to zero height\nG28; // Home Z in the middle of the bed\nG1 Z0; // This will move the head to zero height;\nM211 S0; // This will disable the end stops so that you \n // will be able to proceed lower than Z=0\n\n\nNow adjust Z height to fit a piece of paper and note the negative Z height (either through the LCD or through an application over USB)\n\nM851 Z-1.23; // Define the Z offset\nM500; // Store the settings\nM211 S1; // Enable the end stops again\n\n\nPlease note that -1.23 is a fictive value that should be replaced by your own value.\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n5857,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Petar Petrov,3.0576060275493275,6.277053278003932,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.082726318457765,Z Offset on autoleveling sensor setup,\"How does Z offset (M851) work with an auto leveling sensor? Does it add the Z offset to the offset of the G29 mesh? or the G29 value replaces the M851?\n\nMy printer is an Anet A8 with marlin firmware, I was having issues with the autoleveling sensor and reset the Z offset to 0 and let G29 get the mesh offsets and its working good now.\n\nI was looking through marlin gcode page but couldn't figure out how G29 affects M851 or vice-versa.\n\nMy setup with level issues:\n\nM851 Z0\nG28 \nM211 S0 ;turned endstops off and got a paper to find the zoffset\nM851 Z-0.59\nM500\nM211 S1\n\n\nAnd G29 before printing.\n\",Harly H.,\"You must use the sequence \n\nG28\nG29\n\n\nIf you do G28 after G29 it will reset bed leveling. I guess you don't want that.\n\nOn my printer deployed z-probe falls 2.3 mm lower than nozzle. In printer settings I've therefore stored static Z-offset of -2.3 mm, so after G28 and G29 I can be sure that when ever I tell Z-axis to lower to zero, it can go down -12.3 mm, coming to stop at around 0.1 mm above the bed surface (so just a single sheet of paper fits between the nozzle and the bed).\n\nThat said, I'm not worrying about sending the Z-offset via print commands, as restart restores the aforementioned -2.3 mm offset.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5882,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Petar Petrov,2.8153892694839717,4.110615265422881,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,PLA coating for water irrigation 3D printed parts,\"I was considering printing some pieces for my irrigation system, like tube connectors and such. I am aware that PLA is hydrophilic so I was wondering with what kind of product I could coat the pieces, non-toxicity is a requirement because it will water edible greens.\n\nSo, what kind of non-toxic product can I use to coat PLA to make it hydrophobic?\n\",EvilTeach,\"PLA will biodegrade over time. ABS would last longer, and stand up to higher temps.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5882,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Petar Petrov,2.8153892694839717,4.110615265422881,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,PLA coating for water irrigation 3D printed parts,\"I was considering printing some pieces for my irrigation system, like tube connectors and such. I am aware that PLA is hydrophilic so I was wondering with what kind of product I could coat the pieces, non-toxicity is a requirement because it will water edible greens.\n\nSo, what kind of non-toxic product can I use to coat PLA to make it hydrophobic?\n\",cmm,\"Before worrying too much about the hydrophilic properties of PLA, it might be worthwhile to test a fitting.\n\nFirst, print a fitting and see that the freshly made print is strong enough to carry the pressure of the water, and the compression force of hose clamp you may need to connect the stiff irrigation hose to the printed fitting. \n\nSecond, soak the printed fitting in water for month or two, perhaps at an elevated temperature to match the higher ground temperature in the summer. You could put the part in a closed mason jar and leave it in the sun. You might add a little salt and fertilizer to the water to simulate ground conditions.\n\nAfter this aging process, you could test to see if it withstands the pressure of the domestic water system.\n\nYou might also measure the ground temperatures where you intend to use the fittings. I find that PLA has no structural strength above about 150 degrees Fahrenheit (65 degrees Centigrade), and the inability to resist slow plastic may start at an even lower temperature. [For example, I print structural PLA parts with negative clearances and then dip them in 160 degree F water to soften them.]\n\nIf the printed fittings are strong enough but suffer from water absorption, I would either print them of ABS or coat them with an ABS coating. To make the coating, dissolve ABS in acetone until it is the consistency of thick cream, dip your fitting in the mixture, and allow them to dry. It will take longer than you think it should to dry, and the solution will take more ABS plastic than you might expect.\n\nABS is not generally considered to be \"\"food safe\"\", but this isn't a potable water system. The FDA lists ABS as conditionally food safe, and I would be comfortable using it to irrigate my lawn and vegetables.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n5963,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Petar Petrov,3.0576060275493275,4.559226050292909,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Nozzle heats while autoleveling (or before),\"When I'm auto-leveling my Anet A8 with Marlin firmware, the nozzle heats to 195°C during the leveling process, which leaves drops of filament. I checked the resulting G-code but makes no sense to me: \n\nM107\nM190 S55 ; set bed temperature and wait for it to be reached\nM117 Homing Axes\nG28 ; Home axis\nM117 Autoleveling\nG29\nM117 Cleaning Nozzle ; Indicate nozzle clean in progress on LCD\nM109 S200 ; Uncomment to set your own temp run warmer to clean out nozzle\nM107 ; Turn layer fan off\nG21 ; Set to metric change to G20 if you want Imperial\nG90 ; Force coordinates to be absolute relative to the origin\nG0 X10 Y0 Z0.15 F9000 ; Move in 1mm from edge and up z 0.15mm\nG92 E0 ; Set extruder to 0 zero\nG1 Y190 E50 F500 ; Extrude 100mm filiment along Y axis 190mm long to prime and clean the nozzle\nG92 E0 ; Reset extruder to 0 zero end of cleaning run\nG1 E-3 F500 ; Retract filiment by 3 mm to reduce string effect\nG1 X3 Y190 Z15 F9000 ; Move over and rise to safe Z height\nG1 X3 Y0 Z15 F9000 ; Move back to front of bed at safe Z height to shear strings\n\n\nMy printer heats the bed, then homes axes while setting the nozzle temperature to 195°C.\n\nThen autolevels and finally M109 S200 does its job.\n\nHow can I prevent the nozzle from heating when there is no G-code for it (except the M109 S200)?\n\",profesor79,\"I am using CURA as my slicer, and it sets the bed and nozzle temp before printer start code is executed.\nYou can easily check that by opening a file in a notepad and see, that there will be a few lines describing the job, nozzle and bed setting temperature and the user code that is inserted in printer properties screen.\n\nTo change that behavior - you need to open the file and move the M commands down after leveling is executed.\n\n;FLAVOR:Marlin\n;TIME:45\n;Filament used: 0.0187665m\n;Layer height: 0.2\n;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.3.1\nM190 S60\nM104 S200\nM109 S200M82 ;absolute extrusion mode\n\n\nlines above are added by slicer so temperature is set before instritions from START G-Code section:\n\nG21 ;metric values\nG90 ;absolute positioning\nM82 ;set extruder to absolute mode\nM107 ;start with the fan off\nG28;\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length\nG1 F20 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again\n\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5859,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mike de Klerk,2.1782824847157594,4.34759906355837,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How to create an accurate mask for a UV 3D resin DLP printer,\"The light of the build area of a DLP UV printer isn't evenly spread. The source of light is a 9 LED UV array. The light mainly falls of to the sides. This results in objects curing too much in the center, or not enough on the outer sides of the build area. One can compensate for this, making the LCD build area have a homogeneous intensity of light, using a mask. But it needs to be specifically created for each physically unique printer. Having a homogeneous illuminated build area results in better quality prints.\n\nHow can I create such an mask accurately for a UV 3D resin printer that uses DLP technique, like for example for a Wanhao Duplicator D7?\n\",Mike de Klerk,\"I've created software to do just that. See the project on Github: CreateMask. It has a wiki page that explains what to do.\n\nTo summarize: you measure the LCD build area using a multi-meter and a light dependent resistor. You do this with low and high intensity masks. You feed the numbers in CSV files to the software, and the software will generate a mask for you by polynomial curve fitting. See this page that explains in detail how the mask is created, if you are interested.\n\nYou can download a release here.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5862,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,42Z0GqNNz,2.528907649931287,4.653886001616373,3.507933925167123,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How do I compute the surface & volume of a large amount of STL files?,\"Please, how do I compute the surface & volume of a large amount of STL files ?\n\nI have over 3000 STL files, and I want to know their respective volumes and surfaces. I will use this data to be able to identify the biggest part, the one with the biggest surface, etc.\n\nI found that the fine Admesh (included in openscad, as far as I know) software that can compute the volume via command-line (powershell) and with some text editing I can get the volumes for all of these parts (needing some patience), but I didn't find any similar tool for the surface.\n\nThe best tool would output such thing as:\n\n\n input.stl - 75.554mm2 - 45.547mm3\n\n\nI'm not sure this post is adequate in here, but anyway, thanks.\n\",typo,\"You could use the Python console of FreeCAD. Issuing the following commands\n\nFreeCAD.ActiveDocument.ActiveObject.Shape.Area\nFreeCAD.ActiveDocument.ActiveObject.Shape.Volume\n\n\nwill output the area and the volume of the object, respectively.\n\nI don't know how to access the console output from outside FreeCAD, but there is an option in FreeCAD called Redirect internal Python output to report view which I think is what you are looking for.\n\nYou might want to look into the Scripting documentation of FreeCAD for further instructions.\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5863,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Michael Gerard,2.8153892694839717,3.007463813452983,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Monoprice i3 clone heat shuts off printing abs,\"I have the Monoprice Select 3D Printer (i3 clone). I'm trying to print ABS. I set the temperature to 230°C for the extruder and 110°C for the bed. I can see the printer warming up to those temperatures and then when it gets there the bed and extruder set temperatures reset to 0, and the print does not start.\n\nI pulled the ABS out and went back to PLA and printed a part without any issues. \n\nAny thoughts on what the issue might be?\n\",profesor79,\"this could be connected to a thermal shutdown protection.\nMost firmwares requires a decent increase in temperature every few seconds.\n\nif you use Marlin then in the source code you can extend thermal shutdown timings.\n\nwhat to check:\ncheck every single connector to eliminate any fiddling or play - risk of fire !!!\n\nif any of wires goes hot - double check connections, replace wires/connectors\n\n\nnote temperature change (how many seconds/degree) on the hotbead\nthen increase voltage on psu (probably you have a led psu - so there is a small regulator next to the connectors)\nvalidate if that help\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5874,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gian.Pit,2.8153892694839717,3.1516766269614735,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,How do you program a 3D printer?,\"I'm thinking about building my own 3D printer/Laser Engraver/CNC. Since all use a standard Cartesian axis I wanted to be able to swap out tool heads depending on the purpose. I have everything thought out except the coding aspect of the project.\n\nI currently own a 3D printer and am familiar with some of the coding aspects, gcode, stepper motor moment, axis zeroing, etc; but if I am to build a 3 axis system how do you go about coding it? Are there programs that automatically calibrate all the motors? Can I take existing 3D printer programs and adjust the stepper motor values and build plate area? or do I have to code a new printing program from scratch that can read gcode? For simplicity lets just talk about the printing aspect of the build as I realize that CNC's and laser engravers work on different vector systems. Thanks :)\n\",fred_dot_u,\"The foundation of any 3D printer is the controller and the firmware. Many devices are based on Arduino type controllers, with stepper motor driver boards either integrated or added as a plug-in component.\n\nSome manufacturers will use in-house or outside resources and develop their own boards and firmware.\n\nYou can search for 3D printer controllers and get a pretty comprehensive list of the various devices available for purchase. Smoothieboard is one device, Raspberry Pi and Arduino as noted above, and others.\n\nThere can be found varying \"\"flavors\"\" of firmware to load onto these controllers as well.\n\nThe field is exhaustive.\n\nTo address your focus regarding the printing aspect, that's one stepper motor per print head/nozzle (usually) and involves calibrating the amount of filament dispensed from the nozzle per unit steps, or more easily understood, amount of steps per unit of filament movement. My stepper motor for the extruder has a planetary gear and moves 100 mm of filament for about 5000 steps.\n\nAll of the parameters you've noted are integrated with the firmware. Motor calibration requires movement per step or steps per millimeter to be entered, unless you purchase a turnkey system with the values loaded.\n\nYou can adjust many of the parameters from the slicing software, but it's more practical to determine the calibration settings, enter that information into your slicer and proceed with model management.\n\nLook into instructables for others' build projects to see what they've accomplished and the steps involved in such a build. This can give you a starting point for your efforts.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n5874,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gian.Pit,2.8153892694839717,3.1516766269614735,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,How do you program a 3D printer?,\"I'm thinking about building my own 3D printer/Laser Engraver/CNC. Since all use a standard Cartesian axis I wanted to be able to swap out tool heads depending on the purpose. I have everything thought out except the coding aspect of the project.\n\nI currently own a 3D printer and am familiar with some of the coding aspects, gcode, stepper motor moment, axis zeroing, etc; but if I am to build a 3 axis system how do you go about coding it? Are there programs that automatically calibrate all the motors? Can I take existing 3D printer programs and adjust the stepper motor values and build plate area? or do I have to code a new printing program from scratch that can read gcode? For simplicity lets just talk about the printing aspect of the build as I realize that CNC's and laser engravers work on different vector systems. Thanks :)\n\",profesor79,\"this is an extension to fred_dot_u answer.\nAs I am in the process of building my own printer, I decided to use RAMPS Arduino shield for electronics and Marlin firmware + Arduino mega2560 as a logic controller. \n\nAs above are battle-tested, I don't need to discover wheel again, but rather focus on the mechanics.\nThe RAMPS mainboard will provide you with the ability to connect 5 steppers and 3 PWM regulated devices (that can be heat-bed, nozzle and fan or combination) and there is still possibility to connect more as a bunch of IO pins are ready to alocate. \n\nMarlinFirmware is avalible on github, so you can download it and then provide all mechanical parameters that are needed to properly drive your printer -so that is:\n\n\nMainboard type\ntype coreXY, XZ ....\nbed size (x,y)\ngantry size (z)\nsteps / mm for steppers\nthermal protection parameters \nLCD display (if in use)\n\n\nThe main benefit of using Marlin for me is that printer configuration is extremely customizable.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5876,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Metiu,2.8153892694839717,3.3621123551116554,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Printing a building from its laser scanned exterior point cloud,\"I have a very dense point cloud (billions of points) of the exterior of a building obtained by laser scanning it with a Leica head.\nI successfully subsampled it down to around 500,000 and I'm trying to print the building by first creating a mesh.\nI tried using CloudCompare, Meshlab and PDAL, using Poisson surface reconstruction.\nHowever, the resulting mesh is full of holes, mainly in the roofs which have the lowest point density, and I cannot print it.\nIs there any algorithm which could use the fact that the point cloud is precisely the exterior part of a geometric thing?\n\",Axel Fernandes,\"Filling out holes in a mesh created using large liar data points is a mess.\n\nThe actual way to do it in the industry is to manually fill all holes ( Yes I know it takes for ever to do and people get paid to do this ) \n\nImport the mesh into Autodesk 3Ds max and go about fixing the holes one at a time if you want it to be accurate or select all and use the cap function . \n\nHope this solves your problem .\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5876,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Metiu,2.8153892694839717,3.3621123551116554,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Printing a building from its laser scanned exterior point cloud,\"I have a very dense point cloud (billions of points) of the exterior of a building obtained by laser scanning it with a Leica head.\nI successfully subsampled it down to around 500,000 and I'm trying to print the building by first creating a mesh.\nI tried using CloudCompare, Meshlab and PDAL, using Poisson surface reconstruction.\nHowever, the resulting mesh is full of holes, mainly in the roofs which have the lowest point density, and I cannot print it.\nIs there any algorithm which could use the fact that the point cloud is precisely the exterior part of a geometric thing?\n\",Horitsu,\"Yes there are similar algorithms, but (afaik) not as ready to use programms. \nI wrote a bachelor thesis by my own, where i converted poind cloud datas of scanned surfaces into contour octrees. This based on the work of Laine (https://users.aalto.fi/~laines9/publications/laine2010i3d_paper.pdf) and the approach of using sparse voxel contour octrees, but instead of using polygons it used point clouds.\nThis way was intended to get fast, good approximated results for visualizing.\n\nBut there may be also other slower and more accurate algorithms. \n\nBtw. this question is not good placed in the 3D printing forum, because it is a question about data conversion. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5878,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mehdi Nellen,2.528907649931287,3.433715357735872,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Change Slic3r settings for left handed coordinate system,\"I made my printer to have a left handed coordinate system (it homes to the back left corner of the heatbed), I did this because it happens to make working on the printer easier for me. This, however, causes the objects to be printed mirrored. In Slic3r I manually mirror objects every time I load a new objects. From time to time I forget doing this which is really annoying. I was wondering if there is a setting in Slic3r to automatically do this. Something like mirroring on import, or changing the axis in Slic3r itself.\n\",0scar,\"The direction of the end stop is set in the firmware of the printer. Even with different setup end stops, you should be able to get a correct coordinate system without mirroring axes in slicers. This would be the preferred method to fix your problem!\n\nE.g. my Ultimaker 3 Extended homes the Z on Z max having the platform at the bottom of the machine, a calibrated offset determines the actual Z=0.\n\nNot knowing which firmware you are using, in e.g. Marlin Firmware this is set by code lines in the file Configuration.h:\n\n// Direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN\n// :[-1,1]\n#define X_HOME_DIR -1\n#define Y_HOME_DIR -1\n#define Z_HOME_DIR -1\n\n\nYour end stop triggers at the maximum of the Y axis, so you need to configure it as a MAX end stop, i.e. use the Y_MAX pins by defining (search for the Endstop Settings section, note to also disable the YMIN endstop):\n\n//#define USE_YMIN_PLUG // This disables the YMIN endstop\n#define USE_YMAX_PLUG // This enables the YMAX endstop\n\n\nand change the homing direction (Y_HOME_DIR) to 1:\n\n#define Y_HOME_DIR 1 // This tells the printer where the endstop is located: positive for YMAX direction\n\n\nOtherwise when used at Y_MIN endstop and the homing direction set to -1, the axis is reversed as you experienced.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5959,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mehdi Nellen,2.1782824847157594,4.7712558070687106,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Only generate supports between object and bed (for a brain model),\"I would like to print a model of my brain (figure 1), it requires supports (figure 2). The supports also get generated between the brain folds/wrinkles of the brain by Slic3r. I only want the supports to be generated between the bed an the object, not within the object itself. I thought of writing a script to edit the g-code, is there an easier way out?\n\nFigure 1:\n\nFigure 2:\n\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Within Slic3r, there are settings for support, which can be enabled to create support only from the build plate. This would still generate supports under the brain, but not within the hollow sections.\n\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5901,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Athul,3.267423727073639,3.914854869016704,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Auger Paste extruder,\"I've made a paste extruder(plunger type), in which a plunger will push the syringe to extrude. Plunger movement is controlled by a stepper motor. In that arrangement, for g-code generation I've used inside dia of syringe as the filament diameter and inside dia of needle as nozzle diameter and to calculate extruder steps per mm, I\"\"ve used the lead of threaded rod which controls the movement of plunger. \n\nBut it had several issues like air bubbles and unable to print thick pastes.\n\nLater I've seen this video on Youtube. In which he later changed to a Auger bit mechanism and I've seen WASP LDM already made a successful one.\n\nI'm trying to make one of these. But in this mechanism how to calculate the steps per mm for Extruder?\n\nIs it same as the lead of Auger bit??\nWhat about the filament diameter in slic3r settings??\nAnyone have any idea??\n\nThanks\n\",profesor79,\"To be precise we shall have all physical parameters of extruded material to calculate extrusion parameters.\nIn that case, my approach will be to use try and check approach, as that will give a systematic problem-solving.\n\nTo set the steps/mm, we will focus only on the measured length after extrusion.\n\n\nlet's set the extrusion length to 10 cm, extrude and check the extruded length.\nif we measure a different value, then we can use a formula to fix that\nnewStepsPermm = currentStepsPermm*(requestedExtrusionLength / measuredLength )\nThat need to be repeated as long as we will get requested length and this is a standard calibration procedure.\n\n\nThe minimal layer thickness will be connected with the way how the pasta behaves (how it is sticky, water amount etc) - so for that there is a need for a patience. \nMy approach will be to create a sheet where I would store the ingredients ratio and a note about extruded material behavior.\n\nTo remove bubbles in the extruded material - the syringe shall be filled with caution and continuously to avoid material stacking as that produces air pockets. \n\n\n\nAddon: To calibrate clay you can print a single line using manually prepared gcode. Amount of extruded material could be estimated by weighting conteiner/bottle or extruded material and that will give you an orientation of flow like gramms/mm or mm3/mm.\n\nlet's try this:\n\n\nwe have our steps//mm untouched\ntry to set printing speed for single line, so the clay will looks nice\nif we have over/under extrusion - change feedrate by 5% up/down.\nwhen the extrusion looks ok, then note all printed parameters\n\n\nso if we end-up with printing speed 10mm/s and feedrate 140%, then we know that the steps/mm need to be multiplied by feedrate factor (1.4 in this case).\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6051,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Athul,2.8153892694839717,5.444516988005577,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.104288080884247,Hot end temperature varies during print,\"If I set temperature say 220 °C, printer heats up to it and it only varies +/- 0.5 °C under non operating condition. But if I start a print, there's a shift of +/- 15 °C.\n\nI've already auto tuned PID parameters and When I run M503, printer shows the updated PID values. \n\n\n\nWhat could be the reason?\n\nElectronics details:\n\n\nFirmware used: Marlin\nController board: Printrboard rev D\n\n\",profesor79,\"There could be a number of reasons for that behaviour:\n\nPlease check following items:\n\n\npart blower/fan cools down the nozzle - stop the fan\nmaterial is extruded at high speed and takes the heat\nloose thermistor (when the move occurs as it moves a bit internally) \nthe power supply unit voltage varies - so temperature reading varies as well - measure voltage and see if there are significant drops\nnozzle heater and thermistor cables can be loose as well (check screw terminals)\nbed heater connection cables having not a good connection (check screw terminals)\n\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n6051,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Athul,2.8153892694839717,5.444516988005577,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.104288080884247,Hot end temperature varies during print,\"If I set temperature say 220 °C, printer heats up to it and it only varies +/- 0.5 °C under non operating condition. But if I start a print, there's a shift of +/- 15 °C.\n\nI've already auto tuned PID parameters and When I run M503, printer shows the updated PID values. \n\n\n\nWhat could be the reason?\n\nElectronics details:\n\n\nFirmware used: Marlin\nController board: Printrboard rev D\n\n\",AterLux,\"Can you also show a \"\"power output\"\" graph (or something like that, which show PWD duty cycle output to the hot end)?\n\nHave you noted any relation between temperature raise and fall and the printing position?\n\nLooking at graph I can only suggest the heating is suddenly stops and then the same sudden resumes.\nIt looks like you have a loose wire connection to the heater. When head is starting to move, it makes disturbance for the wiring, so heater occasionally stops to work.\nThere are usual two weak points: first it is where cable is connected to the board. Check is connector heated? Are any noises/sparks from there?\nAnother part: it is just at the point where wires going into the hot end. If wires are not secured to the printing head, then during printing those place experiences a lot of bending, which makes it weaker over the time.\n\",0.0,0.0\n6102,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Athul,2.8153892694839717,6.354755147009776,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Configuring BLTouch with Marlin firmware,\"Has anyone configured BLTouch with Marlin firmware?\n\nI could only find videos about older firmware version. I followed this document. To avoid causing any damage to the printer, I removed all connections, took the board out and connected a stepper to Z-axis terminal and BLTouch to Z-min and servo 1. All other axes are not connected. X-min and Y-min end stops were shorted using jumper (Mine is NC configuration). \n\nAfter updating the firmware, I can move the X and Y steppers, but not Z stepper. There's a blue light glowing inside BLTouch, which turns off if I remove Servo connections.\n\nThe M119 command shows all end stops are open.\n\nDo I have to change pull up settings of end stop?\n\nI cuurently have:\n\n\nMarlin 1.1.6\nBLTouch Classic\n\n\nHere's my configuration file\n\n\n\",profesor79,\"For security reasons, you cannot move Z until home position is applied to X, Y and Z.\n\nWith the level sensor attached, we need to home X and Y, and then Z will be homed in the middle of the bed (as configured). Execute G28 to home all axis and then you shall be able to run 'Z'.\n\nTo test that, you can unplug just steppers (with power switched off to prevent damaging the stepper drivers) and move X and Y manually to home position, then just give a touch to the BL sensor (when servo/pin) is deployed to confirm home position.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6102,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Athul,2.8153892694839717,6.354755147009776,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Configuring BLTouch with Marlin firmware,\"Has anyone configured BLTouch with Marlin firmware?\n\nI could only find videos about older firmware version. I followed this document. To avoid causing any damage to the printer, I removed all connections, took the board out and connected a stepper to Z-axis terminal and BLTouch to Z-min and servo 1. All other axes are not connected. X-min and Y-min end stops were shorted using jumper (Mine is NC configuration). \n\nAfter updating the firmware, I can move the X and Y steppers, but not Z stepper. There's a blue light glowing inside BLTouch, which turns off if I remove Servo connections.\n\nThe M119 command shows all end stops are open.\n\nDo I have to change pull up settings of end stop?\n\nI cuurently have:\n\n\nMarlin 1.1.6\nBLTouch Classic\n\n\nHere's my configuration file\n\n\n\",0scar,\"Edit: The answer below reflected the original question and upload of the configuration that was incorrectly configured. The value of this answer can be found in checking your configuration thoroughly before you post a question. It also answers the question whether pull-up resistors need to be set for the end stops.\n\n\n\nBasically you need to follow the instructions of the manual/sheet you mention in your question. Be sure to get all the changes correct in your configuration.h file!\n\nE.g. in your configuration\n\n//#define NUM_SERVOS 3 // Servo index starts with 0 for M280 command\n\n\nshould be\n\n#define NUM_SERVOS 3 // Servo index starts with 0 for M280 command\n\n\nSo no servo was defined (the servo pulls up the pin of the BLTouch sensor)! Also your BLTouch delay is 375 while 100 is prescribed. Please check that you managed to get all the proposed changes in the configuration file (as I stopped comparing for you after finding 2 errors in your configuration!) as I believe that you have not updated your configuration correctly as described. There should be no differences in setup for Marlin 1.1.6 or 1.1.8.\n\nTo answer your question: No, you do not need to change pull-up settings.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6167,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Athul,3.0576060275493275,3.3206222047196907,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,StoneFlower3D - how to pause a print?,\"I've been trying to make a paste extruder and I came across StoneFlower3D. In their site, they mentioned about a feature called Infinite Printing. Please see page number 25 of this document. \n\nThey're only using Step, Dir, Enable and GND from main controller and there's not a serial connection with the controller.\n\nAnyone have idea about how they're doing it?\n\",profesor79,\"The extruder is connected to 3d printer mainboard as a stepper driver.\nThat said it is not using standard stepper motor output, but it is fed directly from CPU digital pins.\n\nPlease see OP reference manual. \n\nThe extruder has theability to self-feed (load filament) - so that is the reason of kit/printer switches - see pic 1.\nThen pausing a print to feed the clay tank need to be executed from printer (pause print) and then operated locally in the kit mode.\n\n\n\nif get your comments well - pic below gives an overview how to connect it to rams - see manual for details\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6437,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Athul,2.1782824847157594,4.367573741536241,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Positioning Extruders after Tool change : Marlin 1.1.6,\"I'm currently working on a project which uses two extruders. One for making an impression in a powder and other one to dispose a liquid in to the impression made by the first extruder.\n\nI'm currently manually writing gcode for the purpose, and have some doubts about gcodes and setting up a second extruder. I've once configured a dual extruder system, but it uses old marlin and current one has a variety of dual extruder system, so confused about which one to choose.\n\nFirmware : Marlin 1.1.6\n\nMachine : custom made\n\nBoard : Ramps 1.4\n\n\nconfiguration file : Configuarion\n\nDual extruder setup: two nozzles with separate stepper motor for each nozzle. For the sake of simplicity let's say something like this\n\nWhich category does this one go?? By reading marlin documentation it doesn't belong to any special category (???)\n\nI only changed following in FW,\n\n#define EXTRUDERS 2\n\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 5\n\n\nI tested by sending T0 and T1 to select extruders and extruding them\n\nDo I have to change anything else??\n\nThis is the test gcode:\n\nG28 ;home\n\nT0 ;select extruder 1\nG0 X20 ;move to X 20\nG92 E0 ;set current position of extruder as 0\nG1 E10 ;extrude 10 mm\nG92 E0 ;set current position of extruder as 0\nG1 E-10 ;retract 10 mm\n\nT1 ;select extruder 2\nG92 E0 ;set current position of extruder as 0\nG1 E5 ;extrude 5 mm\nG4 P500 ;give a delay of 500 ms before next move\n\nT0\nG0 X 30\nG92 E0\nG1 E10\nG92 E0\nG1 E-10\n\nT1\nG92 E0\nG1 E5\nG4 P500\n\nT0\nG0 X 40\nG92 E0\nG1 E10\nG92 E0\nG1 E-10\n\nT1\nG92 E0\nG1 E5\nG4 P500\n\nT0\nG0 X 50\nG92 E0\nG1 E10\nG92 E0\nG1 E-10\n\nT1\nG92 E0\nG1 E5\nG4 P500\n\nT0\nG0 X 60\nG92 E0\nG1 E10\nG92 E0\nG1 E-10\n\nT1\nG92 E0\nG1 E5\nG4 P500\n\nT0\nG0 X70\nG92 E0\nG1 E10\nG92 E0\nG1 E-10\n\nT1\nG92 E0\nG1 E5\nG4 P500\n\nT0\nG0 X70\nG92 E0\nG1 E10\nG92 E0\nG1 E-10\n\nT1\nG92 E0\nG1 E5\nG4 P500\n\nT0\nG0 X80\nG92 E0\nG1 E10\nG92 E0\nG1 E-10\n\nT1\nG92 E0\nG1 E5\nG4 P500\n\n\nWhat it does is:\n\n\nAfter homing, move to given position\nActivate extruder 1 and extrude some(make impression)\nthen activating extruder 2 and extrude\nmove to next position and repeate\n\n\nWhat I actually want is:\n\n\nAfter homing, move to given position\nActivate extruder 1 and extrude some (make impression)\nthen activating extruder 2 \nmove extruder 2 to the position where extruder 1 extruded material\nExtrude material (by extruder 2)\nMove to next position and repeat\n\n\none way to achieve this is add an additional code after enabling extruder 2\n\neg:\n\nT0\nG0 X 20\nG92 E0\nG1 E10\nG92 E0\nG1 E-10\n\nT1\nG0 X15 ; if X offset of E2 from E1 is 5mm, assuming no Y offset\nG92 E0\nG1 E5\nG4 P500\n\nT0\nG0 X 30\nG92 E0\nG1 E10\nG92 E0\nG1 E-10\n\nT1\nG0 X25\nG92 E0\nG1 E5\nG4 P500\n\n\nIn plastic extrusion this is normally done by setting offset in Slic3r. \n\nIs there any other way to do this, position E22 to the position of E1.\nIs there any specific G/Mcode for it??\nThere's a provision to set offset in Marlin. But this is what it says in marlin documentation \n\n\"\"Z hotend offset only available with DUAL_X_CARRIAGE or SWITCHING_NOZZLE.\"\"\n\nDoes it work with normal dual extruders.?(Does mine come under any two system mentioned above?)\n\",Toon,\"Interesting project your are working on.\n\n\n Does it work with normal dual extruders.?(Does mine come under any two\n system mentioned above?)\n\n\nThe hotend/extruder you mentioned above is a E3D Chimera like system. And it is not suited for your application because you cannot lower/lift the hotends independently from each other.\n\nexamples of these configurations\n\n\nDUAL_X_CARRIAGE:\n\n\nlook at BCN3D sigmax dual extruder\n\nSWITCHING_NOZZLE:\n\n\nlook at ultimaker 3 mechanism for lowering/switching the active hotend.\n\n\n\nThe above systems aren't well documentend and will be hard to make. \nI advice you to look into an interesting blog post from E3D about a tool changer. It is opensource, well documented so you're be able to create one yourself with tool heads for your application. A spade to create patterns in the powder. And a liquid tool to fill the patterns.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6912,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Athul,3.0576060275493275,4.532454271121139,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Which is a more accurate linear motion system?,\"If someone looking for accuracy, which is the better linear motion system:\n\n\nMaker slide, \nSmooth rod - bearing, \nLinear guide way, \nV slot, \nOpen rail\n\n\nPlease let me know if there's a better one other than above list.\n\",TextGeek,\"I used a few different linear rail systems in my build:\n\n\nplain smooth rods for Z motion\nsmooth rods bonded to a T-haped steel base for a 1200mm Y axis (similar to those at https://cdn.automationdirect.com/static/specs/suremotionlinear.pdf)\nigus \"\"low profile linear slide\"\" for X (https://www.igus.com/drylin/profile-rail-guide)\n\n\nThey all seem to work pretty well. The one problem I had was with the igus slides, which I found had a little too much play -- so each change of direction on X had a slight backlash, from the \"\"cars\"\" twisting a tiny bit within the rails. I improved that with careful tuning: shifting the rails a tiny bit farther apart, so they kept the cars under a little tension against the inner sides of the rail -- some call this \"\"preloading\"\". \n\nI think systems that use actual bearings should generally be more accurate than spring-loaded slides. But the igus rails are still pretty good, and they're quite light, compact, and reasonably priced. I still use them, though once in a while I think about swapping them out to do a serious comparison.\n\nThe rails aren't the only factor in accuracy, though. I can't detect any play or warp in my Y rails, but that says nothing about accuracy and repeatability of motion along them. That's controlled by the motor and the belt, leadscrew, or other things actually moving them. Leadscrews, in particular, vary quite a bit in accuracy, depending on the shape of their threads, the kind of \"\"nut\"\" riding on them, and other factors. \n\nYou can even make your own leadscrew system from just a threaded rod and a nut -- but those threads are not the same, and they allow far more play than a real leadscrew does. Nice article on the \"\"backlash\"\" problem at https://www.liutaiomottola.com/Tools/Backlash.htm. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6949,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Athul,2.1782824847157594,4.24487813216945,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.8086301675739853,Ball screw: Maintaining Z axis position when motor is OFF,\"I'm building a 3d printer of size 500 x 500 x 500 build area. For the Z axis, I'm planning to use this Linear actuator. \n\nThe maximum weight Z axis might encounter is 15 Kg due to it being a clay printer. A single linear actuator can, according to the specs, lift 10 Kg. So I'm planning to use two of this.\n\nMy question is a ball screw of pitch 4mm or 5mm, will it be able to Maintain it's position when the motor is de-energized under a load of 15 kg shared by two systems.\n\nWhat effect the diameter of rod has on it??\n\nIs there any way to find that??\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"\n My question is a ball screw of pitch 4mm or 5mm, will it be able to Maintain it's position when motor is deenergized under a load of 15 kg shared by two systems.\n\n\nThe detent torque of a typical NEMA 23 stepper varies between around 3 and 7 N·cm. This is the torque produced when the windings are not energized.\n\nUsing this leadscrew torque calculator, you can find that the torque required for a 12 mm diameter, 4 mm pitch leadscrew to hold up a 75 N load, is around 5 N·cm - assuming there is no friction. If there is friction, then the required torque will be lower.\n\nSo, the torque required is almost equal to or possibly even higher than the detent torque. Therefore, you should not count on a de-energized motor holding up the build platform. In practice, you might see that friction is enough to hold up the build platform, but that any disturbance (such as somebody bumping into the printer) is enough to get the leadscrews to start spinning and have the platform drop like a rock.\n\n\n What effect the diameter of rod has on it?\n\n\nIncreasing the pitch also increases the torque required (so, go with a lower pitch leadscrew). The diameter does not affect the torque directly, but having a larger diameter increases the friction and so is beneficial.\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n6949,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Athul,2.1782824847157594,4.24487813216945,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.8086301675739853,Ball screw: Maintaining Z axis position when motor is OFF,\"I'm building a 3d printer of size 500 x 500 x 500 build area. For the Z axis, I'm planning to use this Linear actuator. \n\nThe maximum weight Z axis might encounter is 15 Kg due to it being a clay printer. A single linear actuator can, according to the specs, lift 10 Kg. So I'm planning to use two of this.\n\nMy question is a ball screw of pitch 4mm or 5mm, will it be able to Maintain it's position when the motor is de-energized under a load of 15 kg shared by two systems.\n\nWhat effect the diameter of rod has on it??\n\nIs there any way to find that??\n\",user77232,\"Adding to the other more scientific answers here. The backdriving force will move the lead screws depending on the stiction between the lead screw and the nut. If it was friction less then it will always slide. Basically you need to keep the lead screw from turning while the machine is off. You can make a basic electromagnetic clutch which will add some resistance to turning by using double pole double throw relays to short the motor leads to ground when the power is off. You can test this yourself by just connecting all the lead wires together and then try turning the motor spindle by hand.\n\n\n\nhttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnetic_brake\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7581,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Athul,1.726248027126092,3.1979807096326267,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Speed issue with Slic3r and Marlin,\"I am trying to print with clay.\n\nThese are my Slic3r speed settings,\n\n\n\nOther information;\n\n\nNozzle: 1.4 mm\nFirst layer height: 0.9 mm\nlayer height: 1 mm\nFilament dia: 1.8 mm\nperimeter: 3\n\n\nWhen I print, the first layer is printed faster than remaining layers and in the remaining layers, the two inner perimeters are printed much slower than the outer perimeter.\n\n\nVideo: print video\nG-code: gcode\n\n\nIsn't this strange since I give the same print speed for all?\n\",Trish,\"No, you did not set all the settings to the same speed, there are 2 different print speeds defined:\n\n\nInfill Solid: 60 mm/s\nFirst Layer Speed: 30%\n\n\nThis means, that some walls will be printed 10 mm/s faster than the others, and that first layer should be printed at 30% of 50 mm/s, so at 15 mm/s - try to define it as a speed. Make sure to save and apply the settings and only then slice your model, as you might have sliced the model with the previous settings.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7581,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Athul,1.726248027126092,3.1979807096326267,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Speed issue with Slic3r and Marlin,\"I am trying to print with clay.\n\nThese are my Slic3r speed settings,\n\n\n\nOther information;\n\n\nNozzle: 1.4 mm\nFirst layer height: 0.9 mm\nlayer height: 1 mm\nFilament dia: 1.8 mm\nperimeter: 3\n\n\nWhen I print, the first layer is printed faster than remaining layers and in the remaining layers, the two inner perimeters are printed much slower than the outer perimeter.\n\n\nVideo: print video\nG-code: gcode\n\n\nIsn't this strange since I give the same print speed for all?\n\",Marcus Adams,\"Make sure that on the Print Settings tab, under Advanced, you have set the Extrusion widths for your custom nozzle settings.\n\",0.0,0.0\n7695,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Athul,2.8153892694839717,5.264624537624321,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Z axis: Stepper motor and lead screw torque calculation,\"I am trying to figure out some calculations regarding stepper motor and lead screw.\n\nThese are the things need answer:\n\n\nSelection stepper motor to lift given weight?\nAmount of load threaded rod can handle?\n\n\nI found a this topic how much weight can my stepping motor lift?\n\n\n\nwhere, \n\n\np = pitch of the screw \nSe = screw efficiency = Standard lead screw will be between 20% (.2) and 40% (.4) \nSf = static force. This is the force that is needed to start the movement. The number may be eliminated, but it is good to use a number in the 5 N to 20 N range. \nLoad = the expected load that the effort will need to carry (i.e., the router and the included axis assembly that the motor will need to lift) \nR = radius of the lead screw\n\n\nBased on this equation with following data\n\n\nLoad: 5 Kg = ~25 N\nThread rod specs;\n\n\nPitch : 1.25 mm = 0.0492126\nDia : 8 mm = 0.314961 inch\n\nMotor :\n\n\nNema 17 \nDatasheet\n\n\n\nCalculated Effort = 6.22 N = 1.4 lbf = 22.4 ounce\n\nRadius = 8 mm = 0.315 inch (using Pitch conversion table)\n\nSo torque = 22.4 * 0.315 = 7.056 oz-in = 0.0498 Nm \n\nAs per data sheet Motor can provide an Axial force of 10 N. I'm using two of such motors, so this motor is enough\n\nHowever, based on this calculator, Lead Screw Torque and Force Calculator, with following information:\n\n\n \n\n\nTorque required to raise in 0.0252 Nm.\n\n\nWhich should be used for calculations?\nHow to find the running torque of stepper motor? \nI know it will be less that Holding torque, but what percentage?\n\n\nNema 17 that I've given Holding torque is 5.5 Kgcm or 0.55 Nm. My second calculation gives the calculated torque to lift is 0.0252 Nm.\n\nAlso from this Threaded rod load table, load capacity of 8 mm rod is somewhat around 270 Kg.\n\nLooking for further inputs.\n\",Greenonline,\"This is a work in progress - I'm still plugging in the numbers\n\n\n\nA couple of issues:\n\n\nYou appear to be mixing Force (effort) and Inertia and comparing them directly - this mistake seems to have come from the first link;\nYou used 8 mm diameter, instead of 4 mm radius, to calculate the torque\nYou haven't calculated the holding force, which would provide the holding torque required, which can be easily compared against the specification of the stepper motor;\nI can't see where you obtained the value for axial force of 10 N, from the datasheet of the stepper motor.\n\n\nRegardless of these issues, tackling each question separately:\n\n\n\n\n Selection stepper motor to lift given weight?\n\n\nFirst equation\n\nYour first equation, for effort, is\n\n$$F_{effort} = S_f+\\frac{Load}{2*\\pi*\\left(\\frac{R}{P}\\right)*S_e}$$\n\nwhere, \n\n\nStarting Force, from linked article, worst case scenario, $S_f = 20$ N\nRadius $R=4$ mm$=0.004$ m\nPitch $P=1.25$ mm$=0.0125$ m, and \nScrew Efficiency, from linked article, worst case scenario 20 %, $S_e=20=0.2$ \n\n\nSo filling in the numbers, for 25 N:\n\n$$effort = 20+\\frac{25}{2*\\pi*\\left(\\frac{0.004}{0.00125}\\right)*0.2}$$\n$$effort = 26.22$$\n\nIt is worth noting that this running torque only comes to 6.22 N, much smaller than the worse case value of the starting force, of 20 N:\n\n$$\\frac{25}{2*\\pi*\\left(\\frac{0.004}{0.00125}\\right)*0.2}$$\n$$ = 6.22$$\n\nand plugging in the numbers, for 50 N:\n\n$$effort = 20+\\frac{50}{2*\\pi*\\left(\\frac{0.004}{0.00125}\\right)*0.2}$$\n$$effort = 32.44$$\n\nAgain, it is worth noting that this running torque only comes to 12.44 N, much smaller than the worse case value of the starting force, of 20 N:\n\n$$\\frac{50}{2*\\pi*\\left(\\frac{0.004}{0.00125}\\right)*0.2}$$\n$$ = 12.44$$\n\nIt should be noted that these values are for a force, in N, not torque, in N•m, and I can't see on the datasheet were you obtained an Axial force of 10 N. To convert these to a torque, you must multiply by the radius of the M8 x 1.25 spindle - M8 is 8 mm, therefore the radius is 4 mm, which is 0.004 m:\n\n$$T_{raise} = F_{effort} \\times 0.004$$\n\nThus reducing the values for the Torque (derived from the effort) even further, by a couple of orders of magnitude, to 0.104 and 0.12976 N•m, for loads of 25 N and 50 N respectively.\n\nSo, the estimated value of worst case starting force would appear to be the dominant factor in selecting the stepper motor.\n\nRegardless of all this, if, as you say, that the holding torque, $T_H$, is higher than the running torque, $T_{raise}$, then the holding torque would be the deciding factor in selecting a stepper and the running torque can be discounted.\n\nIt is unclear whether the equation that you found is the appropriate equation for calculating the holding torque. This equation appears to be for moving the load, whereas you need it for merely holding the load. For completeness both the holding and lowering torque values should be calculated.\n\nSecond equation\n\nYour second equation apparently from Wikipedia - Force, via Lead Screw Torque and Force Calculator,\n\n$$Torque_{raise} = F*D_m/2*\\frac{L+\\mu*\\pi*D_m}{\\pi*D_m-\\mu*L}$$\n\nwhere,\n\n\nForce, $F$\nDiameter, $D_m$\nPitch distance of square thread, $L=\\frac{1}{D_{Thread}}$, where $D_{Thread}$ is the thread density given in the table.\nCoefficient of friction, $\\mu$\n\n\nWhilst I can not see that equation on Wikipedia's Force page, I did manage to find the equation for raising, and the equation for lowering, on the Wikipedia page for Leadscrews - Mechanics1: \n\n$$T_R = \\frac{Fd_m}{2}\\left(\\frac{l+\\pi\\mu{d_m}}{\\pi{d_m}-\\mu{l}}\\right)$$\n\nand \n\n$$T_L = \\frac{Fd_m}{2}\\left(\\frac{\\pi\\mu{d_m}-l}{\\pi{d_m}+\\mu{l}}\\right)$$\n\nPlugging in the numbers for 50 N of load:\n\n$$T_R = \\frac{50\\times0.007375}{2}\\left(\\frac{0.00125+\\pi\\times 0.25\\times0.007375}{\\pi\\times0.007375-0.25\\times0.00125}\\right)$$\n$$T_R = 0.1848 \\times 0.308$$\n$$T_R = 0.0568$$\n\nPlugging in the numbers for 50 N of load:\n\n$$T_L = \\frac{50\\times0.007375}{2}\\left(\\frac{\\pi\\times 0.25\\times0.007375- 0.00125}{\\pi\\times0.007375+0.25\\times0.00125}\\right)$$\n$$T_L = 0.1848 \\times 0.193$$\n$$T_L = 0.0357$$\n\nNOTE: As the link to the calculator states, there are two different torques - one to raise, $T_R$, and one to lower, $T_L$. As the lowering torque, $T_L$, is less than the raising torque, $T_R$, then it isn't really necessary to calculate it, or consider it when selecting the stepper, as the raising torque is the dominant factor.\n\nAgain, if, as you say, that the holding torque, $T_H$, is higher than the running torque i.e. $T_R$, then the holding torque would be the deciding factor in selecting a stepper and the running toque can be discounted.\n\n\n\n\n Amount of load threaded rod can handle?\n\n\nThis would appear to be much simpler to answer, as a value is given in the specifications for the rod, depending upon what you actually mean. It could be:\n\n\nThe weight that the rod can support before slipping, or; \nThe weight that the rod can support before slipping before mechanical failure, \n\n\nI would imagine that, the specification given is the weight supported before the threads give way and break.\n\n\n\nFootnotes\n\n1 These equations only account for the friction of the thread and the term for the collar appears to have been omitted. \n\nFrom Torque Required to Raise Load (TR) Calculation, the full equation, for both thread and collar, is given by:\n\n$$T_R = \\frac{Fd_m}{2}\\left(\\frac{l+\\pi\\mu{d_m}}{\\pi{d_m}-\\mu{l}}\\right)+\\left(\\frac{F\\mu_cd_c}{2}\\right)$$\n\nwhere,\n\n\nTorque required to raise load, $T_R$\nLoad, $F=50$ N\nMean diameter of square thread, $d_m = X?$ m\nMean diameter of collar, $d_c = X?$ m\nPitch distance of square thread, $l = 0.00125$ m\nCoefficient of friction for thread, taken from the Solved Example, $\\mu = 0.25$\nCoefficient of friction of collar, taken from the Solved Example, $\\mu_c = 0.25$\n\n\nAs the mean diameter, $d_m$ is not provided, it can be determined from the pitch, $l$, and nominal diameter, $d_n = 8$ mm, by\n\n$$d_m = d_n-\\frac{l}{2}$$\n$$d_m = 0.008 -\\frac{0.00125}{2}$$\n$$d_m = 0.007375$$\n\nThe mean diameter of collar, $d_c$ is not given...\n\nPlugging in the numbers for 50 N of load:\n\n$$T_R = \\frac{50\\times0.007375}{2}\\left(\\frac{0.00125+\\pi\\times 0.25\\times0.007375}{\\pi\\times0.007375-0.25\\times0.00125}\\right)+\\left(\\frac{50\\times0.25\\times{d_c}}{2}\\right)$$\n$$T_R = 0.1848 \\times 0.308+\\left(6.25\\times{d_c}\\right)$$\n$$T_R = 0.0568+\\left(6.25\\times{d_c}\\right)$$\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7977,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Athul,2.1782824847157594,3.9831360400925715,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Marlin: Making any GPIO pin HIGH for a given time,\"Is there any way Marlin Firmware supports G-code that can make a pin \"\"high\"\" and keep it at that state for a period of time specified? \n\nI have made a machine, which runs on Marlin Firmware, that is a mould forming tool, that would make a mould into a powder, then another tool would come over this mould and dispense some liquid in it. I have a custom GUI to move the tools to given coordinates, press a mould, position the second tool over the mould. \n\nFor dispensing liquid I'm thinking about buying a diaphragm valve. I've downloaded the user manual for it. As per the documentation, when compressed air is given to valve it will lift diaphragm and will start dispensing. The amount of liquid it dispenses depends on the how long the valve is opened. So I'm thinking about using a relay to turn a solenoid valve ON and OFF to supply air to the valve. To turn the relay ON I need to make a certain GPIO pin \"\"high\"\". Is there any way I can do this in Marlin Firmware? \n\",0scar,\"As explained in the comments by Tom, you can set any port directly from G-code using the M42 command. To set pin 22 \"\"high\"\", you need to call M42 P22 S255. There is no parameter to add time to the command, so you need to add that yourself using G4 (dwell or pause) to specify how long the printer needs to wait for the next instruction, e.g.:\n\nM42 P22 S255 ; Activate solenoid/relay\nG4 P2000 ; Dwell/pause for 2000 milliseconds (2 seconds)\nM42 P22 S0 ; Deactivate solenoid/relay\n\n\nAs an alternative, you could use the existing fan if that fan is unused in your machine (or add an \"\"extra fan\"\" in the firmware and send the value 255 to that fan). To use the existing fan:\n\nM106 S255 ; Activate solenoid/relay\nG4 P2000 ; Dwell/pause for 2000 milliseconds (2 seconds)\nM107 ; Deactivate solenoid/relay\n\n\nHow you add an extra fan is already described (for a specific RAMPS board) in this answer. However, the answer is valid for other boards as well, as long as you have exposed pins you have access to (or if you can solder directly to open pins), you can use the described technique. \n\nThe G-code to activate the \"\"extra fan\"\" (solenoid) is M106 P1 S255 disabling would be M107 P1. Note that there is an option/parameter to add time (Bnnn Blip time - fan will be run at full PWM for this number of seconds when started from standstill) to the M106 command, but that is only implemented in RepRapFirmware. An alternative is to use G4 (dwell or pause) to specify how long the printer needs to wait for the next instruction (M107) is being parsed, e.g.:\n\nM106 P1 S255 ; Activate solenoid/relay\nG4 P2000 ; Dwell/pause for 2000 milliseconds (2 seconds)\nM107 P1 ; Deactivate solenoid/relay\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n8113,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Athul,1.726248027126092,2.9547933789762357,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Arduino Mega 2560 + RAMPS voltage on GPIO pin,\"I am using an Arduino Mega 2560 and RAMSP 1.4 shield with Marlin firmware to control my machine (not exactly a 3D printer). Marlin has G-code:\n\n\nM42 P20 S255 ==> Turn on pin 20 of the microprocessor \nM42 P20 S0     ==> Turn off pin 20 of the microprocessor\n\n\nI am using this command to turn ON a MOSFET switch connected to pin 20.\n\nWhen I have not put the RAMPS shield on top of AtMega, this works. Pin goes high only when I send code to turn it ON.\n\nBut when I place the shield on top of the Mega 2560 (No 12 V power is given to RAMPS, only 5 V from USB), when I first connect USB to it, I find around 2 V on Pin 20 even without sending the ON command. when sending M42 P20 S0 this goes away (0 V) and get 5 V for M42 P20 S255. Without shield there's no voltage when connecting USB to Mega 2560; with shield there's 2 V on the pin and this causes the MOSFET switch to turn on. \n\nWhere does this voltage comes from? \n\nFirst I thought this must be some noise, so added a 10K pull down resistor (since that is the common value I have seen in many circuits), but it didn't work. But placing a 100 Ohm works. Is this safe?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Connecting a 100 Ohm resistor is definitely not safe. This load is far too high for an AtMega2560 output pin. 100 Ohms at 5 V (when the pin is high) is 50 mA, whereas the recommended maximum for an AtMega2560 pin is 20 mA (and it would be better to stay well below this maximum). You should use a higher value pull-down resistor (at least 250 Ohms, more would be better) or find out where the stray voltage is coming from (it could be an internal pull up on the AtMega, since pin 20 is also the SDA pin which Marlin might enable).\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10712,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Athul,1.0891412423578797,4.028319421555711,0.0,5.199501240805782,0.0,-1.1258498433107285,What stepper motor to use in heated chamber,\"I want to build a 3D printer with a heating chamber of around 90 °C with build area 200x200x200 mm. I have never build a CoreXY system, so my design is currently an XY system with moving X motor (mounted on Y). Since it has a heating chamber I can't use normal stepper motor (there's a way, but I have to provide forced air cooling like NASA did, or water cooling). Extruder is Bowden type. I have already sourced almost all components, but I'm stuck at choosing the motor.\n\nI could find high temperature stepper motor in India (that's where I'm from), but it cost too much. I found one at the Visionminer website, they're the dealers for Intamsys printers, which has a chamber of 90 °C and they are providing replacement stepper motors as well.\n\nComparing the cost, the motor I found in India costs three times as above. Even with shipping I will save a lot. But one issue is they're not providing any details about torque and current rating. There's one image in the website and it says,\n\nMOONS STEPPING MOTOR\nTYPE 17HDB001-11N\n60904162 18/04/12\n\n\nI thought it might be a MOONS motor, so I contacted them, no reply so far. I tried to find the motor by part number, but failed. I tried mailing Visionminer as well.\n\nAnyone have any idea which motor is this? or know any high temperature motors?\n\nAlso they use Gates belts, which is rated for 85 °C. How reliable will it be in 90 °C chamber?\n\",0scar,\"An alternative to finding steppers that can withstand the heat, you can consider not getting the heat near the steppers:\n\n\nMoving the steppers outside the heated build volume\nWith 2 extra pulleys per stepper you can get the steppers outside the build volume.\n\n\n\n\n\nShield the motors from the heat by placing them in a cooler tunnel or behind a face plate/cover\nYou can also shield the steppers from the heat, e.g. the Ultimaker 3(E) the steppers are behind a cover.\n\n\nBe aware that creating a 90 °C heat chamber, all the printed parts for the CoreXY need to be printed in a filament type that can withstand prolonged exposure to the temperature you want the chamber to be (or be made in metal). For the mentioned temperature this implies the use of some more exotic filament types, see e.g. this answer.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10712,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Athul,1.0891412423578797,4.028319421555711,0.0,5.199501240805782,0.0,-1.1258498433107285,What stepper motor to use in heated chamber,\"I want to build a 3D printer with a heating chamber of around 90 °C with build area 200x200x200 mm. I have never build a CoreXY system, so my design is currently an XY system with moving X motor (mounted on Y). Since it has a heating chamber I can't use normal stepper motor (there's a way, but I have to provide forced air cooling like NASA did, or water cooling). Extruder is Bowden type. I have already sourced almost all components, but I'm stuck at choosing the motor.\n\nI could find high temperature stepper motor in India (that's where I'm from), but it cost too much. I found one at the Visionminer website, they're the dealers for Intamsys printers, which has a chamber of 90 °C and they are providing replacement stepper motors as well.\n\nComparing the cost, the motor I found in India costs three times as above. Even with shipping I will save a lot. But one issue is they're not providing any details about torque and current rating. There's one image in the website and it says,\n\nMOONS STEPPING MOTOR\nTYPE 17HDB001-11N\n60904162 18/04/12\n\n\nI thought it might be a MOONS motor, so I contacted them, no reply so far. I tried to find the motor by part number, but failed. I tried mailing Visionminer as well.\n\nAnyone have any idea which motor is this? or know any high temperature motors?\n\nAlso they use Gates belts, which is rated for 85 °C. How reliable will it be in 90 °C chamber?\n\",user77232,\"I'm just going to come straight out and say it. If you can't design and build a Core XY system then you should not even attempt a heated build chamber. \n\nThe Stratasys 3D printers that have heated chambers use a H-Bot design (the predecessor of CoreXY), so as to keep everything out of the chamber. You can't use a regular hot end. You can't have fans on that hot end to keep it cool. You can't have the motors inside the chamber. You can barely have the filament in the chamber because it could get soft inside the tube.\n\nSome of the answers state that motors can operate at high temps already. That is only true in ambient conditions. The heat that the coils of the motor generate is trying to escape to the outside of the motor. It it much hotter inside! Therefore if you raise the external environment's temp to 90 then the heat won't escape as quickly; and if it raises beyond the melt/burn temp then the motor will fail.\n\nhttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnet_wire\n\nhttps://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/211986/burning-temperature-of-copper-winding-of-motor\n\nAfter that fails the PVC coating on the lead wires will fail, usually resorting in a short, which could destroy the stepper drivers. \n\nAdditionally, everything made of metal will expand. The ball bearings will expand, the rails will expand and the hot end will expand. The linear system could become tighter or looser; it could even warp depending on the type of steel. If it becomes looser, then there goes your ability to 3D print! You might end up needing to design and fabricate your parts so that they fit and work properly only when they are at the working temp.\n\nEDIT: Here is what you need to build:\n\nAON-M2 : High Temperature Industrial 3D Printer\n\",-1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5903,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,HugoG,3.0576060275493275,4.212248758188748,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.878685800062712,Anet A8 bad/inconsistent extrusion after changing nozzle,\"I just changed my nozzle on my Anet A8 after it was fully used up. When I started printing with my new 0.4 mm nozzle (same as before) my extrusion was VERY bad and inconsistent, even so bad I couldn't continue printing because it would pull the first layer off. \n\nIf I compare it to my extrusion before the nozzle switch, it is really bad, even though I tightened everything as before. I am quite sure it doesn't have to do with adhesion to the heated bed since I use tape with PVA glue. \n\nAny advice on how to remove this under extrusion so I can continue printing?\n\nAll the specs:\n\n\n25 mm/s first layer print speed\n200 °C nozzle\n60 °C bed\nPLA filament;\n0.4 mm nozzle size\n\n\nLet me know if there is anything else you need to know.\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"Your good extrusion look also a little bad , and the bad extrusion looks like a big feeding problem. for this you need:\n\nFeeding.- try to tight the presure of the feeder thread, the one that press the filament on the extruder.\n\nBed Adhesion.- Use between 32° and 38°C if you are using masking tape, on higher temperatures the masking tape becomes to peel off if any border of the printing part is close to the edge of the tape. \n\nSand the masking tape surface and clean it to be free of dust (eliminate shiny surface) with this is enough to get a good adhesion; I recommend TUK and 3D brands, they are sticky. If you need more adhesion you can spray a little hair spray, just one pass.\n\nClogged Nozzle.- you need to clean it, on your kitchen stove heat the nozzle until melt the filament, then use some cooper wire (some phone wiring has it) to remove residues inside the nozzle. If posible you can buy a drill bit with 0.4mm diameter to ensure a complete cleaning.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5903,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,HugoG,3.0576060275493275,4.212248758188748,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.878685800062712,Anet A8 bad/inconsistent extrusion after changing nozzle,\"I just changed my nozzle on my Anet A8 after it was fully used up. When I started printing with my new 0.4 mm nozzle (same as before) my extrusion was VERY bad and inconsistent, even so bad I couldn't continue printing because it would pull the first layer off. \n\nIf I compare it to my extrusion before the nozzle switch, it is really bad, even though I tightened everything as before. I am quite sure it doesn't have to do with adhesion to the heated bed since I use tape with PVA glue. \n\nAny advice on how to remove this under extrusion so I can continue printing?\n\nAll the specs:\n\n\n25 mm/s first layer print speed\n200 °C nozzle\n60 °C bed\nPLA filament;\n0.4 mm nozzle size\n\n\nLet me know if there is anything else you need to know.\n\",profesor79,\"In the nozzle assembled properly?\nAs I assumed that there were no other changes during the nozzle exchange process, then there is a risk of a gap inside throat and nozzle that just builds up and blocks the extrusion.\n\nPlease see this answer for an assembly hints.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5913,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Paweł Mach,3.267423727073639,3.9369334896349293,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Zonestar Extruder motor does not work - what can I check?,\"While this may seem like terribly noobish question, I'm sure one day someone will have same problem.\n\nI own a ZONESTAR P802QSU (Bowden extruder) and all of sudden my extruder motor stopped working. What I did:\n\n\nI check whether or not motor is moving freely - I can rotate it without any problems manually.\nI checked out cable and plugs - everything seems OK.\nI checked whether motor is working after plugging it into another slot in motherboard - motor works fine.\nI checked if another motor works after plugging it into same slot on mainboard - and it does not.\n\n\nIt would seem that there is something wrong with E0-mot driver module, or with socket. I'm however totally at loss about what can I do with any of those. I do not have any electronic equipment except multimeter, and voltage on motor seems fine(11.3V between red and black, I guess V+ and ground). It sometimes seemed to get lower, but I'm almost sure it is my trembling hands.\n\nAfter some googling, I started checking A4988 stepper driver with my multimeter. VDD was ~5V and VMOT around 12V, so it seems to work at least in this way.\n\nWhat can I do, to see what is broken? Visually nothing looks like it burned out, but I'm fully aware it may not be visible. \n\",Carl Witthoft,\"Good investigation there! You are almost certainly correct that a driver chip has gone blooey. Personally I doubt it's worth the effort to locate and repair, rather than buying a new, trustworthy board. \n\nI recommend this approach because one blown chip may well have caused (or been caused by) unrecognized damage elsewhere, which might then lead to future failures. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5913,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Paweł Mach,3.267423727073639,3.9369334896349293,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Zonestar Extruder motor does not work - what can I check?,\"While this may seem like terribly noobish question, I'm sure one day someone will have same problem.\n\nI own a ZONESTAR P802QSU (Bowden extruder) and all of sudden my extruder motor stopped working. What I did:\n\n\nI check whether or not motor is moving freely - I can rotate it without any problems manually.\nI checked out cable and plugs - everything seems OK.\nI checked whether motor is working after plugging it into another slot in motherboard - motor works fine.\nI checked if another motor works after plugging it into same slot on mainboard - and it does not.\n\n\nIt would seem that there is something wrong with E0-mot driver module, or with socket. I'm however totally at loss about what can I do with any of those. I do not have any electronic equipment except multimeter, and voltage on motor seems fine(11.3V between red and black, I guess V+ and ground). It sometimes seemed to get lower, but I'm almost sure it is my trembling hands.\n\nAfter some googling, I started checking A4988 stepper driver with my multimeter. VDD was ~5V and VMOT around 12V, so it seems to work at least in this way.\n\nWhat can I do, to see what is broken? Visually nothing looks like it burned out, but I'm fully aware it may not be visible. \n\",profesor79,\"As this is not an obvious case, most printers' firmware has a cold extrusion prevention. That is usually set at 170C, so the nozzle need to be over 170 to allow stepper to move.\nI experienced that when I was assembling my TT and doing a cold run, to validate all mechanical movements and clearance.\n\nIn Marlin firmware, the extruder stepper is switched off after extrusion, so we can freely move it, but not other motors and that could give us a thought that something is bad with the driver.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5920,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,alamtania,1.726248027126092,2.6051956195329864,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,What are various types of supports required in slicing the CAD model?,\"Also, a visualization of the various types of supports required in slicing the CAD model is a plus.\n\nI'm just getting started with Rapid prototyping and I had no idea about that. Is there any type of support we can select in the software settings or will it always get generated automatically? \n\",0scar,\"Support structure generation depends on the type of slicer you use to convert your model (STL model file) into printable code (G-code) for the 3D printer. Different options and solutions exist to add support depending on the slicer software applications. Alternatively, you could add your own supports to your models in 3D CAD programs.\n\nWithout giving an opinion on the slicer applications, the most commonly used slicers are Cura and Slic3r (both free) and Simplifi3d (paid license). Please choose your software and do some more investigations on setting up these applications for slicing and address your question with a more specific question.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5922,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kosbou,2.1782824847157594,3.8160562480368836,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How to execute firmware command from gcode,\"I wrote a command in Marlin firmware which changes Neopixel color based on extruder temperature.\n\nIn my start G-code for I set the color to white. How to execute my above command from the end G-code so that the the color changes per request? \n\",profesor79,\"As your color is based on the temp reading, as far as I know, there is no G-code to read a temperature and push that value to another command.\nThe way you can do it is:\n\n\nStatic color change - use same method as you are setting to white\nIntercept firmware temperature reading function and push that value to led module\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5929,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user1829564,1.0891412423578797,4.151510218313422,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Stuck getting ANet A8 Printer to build layers,\"I have excitedly decided to get my feet wet in the 3D printing world, and being that budget is fairly small got myself an ANet A8 3D printer. I have it all assembled and am able to 'print' however I don't really have any luck getting a successful print to actually occur.\n\nAt the moment I am printing with PLA (start easy(er) is my logic) and had a few issues with getting the print to adhere to the print bed so found a plastic-like print surface that seems to adhere fairly well but I am still having issues :(.\n\nWhen the first layers are being deposited onto the bed (extruded at 215, to a bed temperature of 60) they appear to adhere fairly well to the surface, and the layers start to be built up. However, after a random period of time, the layers lost adhesion to the print bed and start to move around the bed which stuffs up all the prints.\n\nin terms of the extruder, the range for the PLA is 190 - 215. I tried lower tempertures but it did not really work in terms of properly melting the filiment unless it was around the 215 range.\n\nTo give you an example of how the prints come out, i have attached two images (front and back) of a set of prints. I stopped these printing as they lost grip on the bed.\n\nBottom Layer (on the bed)\n\n\nTop Layer\n\n\n\n\nThanks heaps for helping a newbie out. I had tried changing speeds (faster and slower), changing temperatures and so on but i have no real idea what i am doing and was hoping someone far more knowledgable than me could give me some idea on where i may be going wrong and how to fix the issue.\n\n\n\nMy Cura profile;\n\n[profile]\nlayer_height = 0.2\nwall_thickness = 1.6\nretraction_enable = True\nsolid_layer_thickness = 1.6\nfill_density = 20\nnozzle_size = 0.4\nprint_speed = 30\nprint_temperature = 215\nprint_temperature2 = 0\nprint_temperature3 = 0\nprint_temperature4 = 0\nprint_bed_temperature = 60\nsupport = None\nplatform_adhesion = None\nsupport_dual_extrusion = Both\nwipe_tower = False\nwipe_tower_volume = 15\nooze_shield = False\nfilament_diameter = 1.75\nfilament_diameter2 = 0\nfilament_diameter3 = 0\nfilament_diameter4 = 0\nfilament_flow = 100\nretraction_speed = 45\nretraction_amount = 4.5\nretraction_dual_amount = 16.5\nretraction_min_travel = 1.5\nretraction_combing = True\nretraction_minimal_extrusion = 0.02\nretraction_hop = 0.0\nbottom_thickness = 0.2\nlayer0_width_factor = 100\nobject_sink = 0.0\noverlap_dual = 0.15\ntravel_speed = 50\nbottom_layer_speed = 20\ninfill_speed = 0\ninset0_speed = 0.0\ninsetx_speed = 0.0\ncool_min_layer_time = 5\nfan_enabled = True\nskirt_line_count = 1\nskirt_gap = 3.0\nskirt_minimal_length = 150.0\nfan_full_height = 0.5\nfan_speed = 30\nfan_speed_max = 70\ncool_min_feedrate = 10\ncool_head_lift = False\nsolid_top = True\nsolid_bottom = True\nfill_overlap = 15\nsupport_type = Lines\nsupport_angle = 60\nsupport_fill_rate = 10\nsupport_xy_distance = 1.2\nsupport_z_distance = 0.45\nspiralize = False\nsimple_mode = False\nbrim_line_count = 4\nraft_margin = 5\nraft_line_spacing = 1.0\nraft_base_thickness = 0.3\nraft_base_linewidth = 0.7\nraft_interface_thickness = 0.2\nraft_interface_linewidth = 0.2\nraft_airgap = 0.22\nraft_surface_layers = 2\nfix_horrible_union_all_type_a = True\nfix_horrible_union_all_type_b = False\nfix_horrible_use_open_bits = False\nfix_horrible_extensive_stitching = False\nplugin_config = (lp1\n .\nobject_center_x = -1\nobject_center_y = -1\n\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Your nozzle is way too far from the bed for the first layer. You should adjust the bed leveling screws to bring the nozzle closer to the bed, to the point where a piece of paper just barely fits between the nozzle and the bed. You should closely watch the first layer as it is being put down, the plastic should get squished slightly and there should be no gaps between adjacent lines.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5935,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Arvind Gupta,3.267423727073639,4.777645936443452,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Generating mold from stl file of the 3D drawing of the object,\"I want to know how to make a mold of a 3D design in .stl format.\n\nSuppose I have a 3D partin .stl format (for e.g. a cylinder) and I want to make/design a mold for this object (i.e. the structure through which I could make the cylinder). Is there any way to do so? Are there any tools to do so?\n\nMy requirement is as follows: I have an .stl file of a design and need to develop the CAD files for its mold. I will then need to 3D print these molds. I would require to add a hole to pour in liquid (resin based) raw material which hardens with time. \n\",Davo,\"You can also bring the model and a big box into slic3r, align and orient them (enclose the model in the box), and do a subtract modifier, leaving a hollow where the two intersected. You probably want to do this twice, for a top mould and a botom mould. I've done this, but I don't see any instructions online for it. :(\n\nEDIT: Unfortunately, this would be very tedious. It's much easier to use meshmixer or another publicly available program to subtract one stl from another.\n\nIn Slic3r, using another stl as a modifier has no effect unless you are also printing that second stl (normally from another head). So you would have to manually remove all the gcode for the second head. Sorry for the bad advice.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n5935,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Arvind Gupta,3.267423727073639,4.777645936443452,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Generating mold from stl file of the 3D drawing of the object,\"I want to know how to make a mold of a 3D design in .stl format.\n\nSuppose I have a 3D partin .stl format (for e.g. a cylinder) and I want to make/design a mold for this object (i.e. the structure through which I could make the cylinder). Is there any way to do so? Are there any tools to do so?\n\nMy requirement is as follows: I have an .stl file of a design and need to develop the CAD files for its mold. I will then need to 3D print these molds. I would require to add a hole to pour in liquid (resin based) raw material which hardens with time. \n\",Starbuck,\"While trying to find a soloution to this problem I came across this forum post, which led me to \"\"Parametric two-part mold generator for OpenSCAD\"\" on Thingiverse.\n\n\n A set of parametric OpenSCAD scripts that generate ready-to-print two-part molds from arbitrary STL models. \n \n These scripts can be used to generate either square (with or without\n rounded corners) or circular two-part molds and are fully\n parameterized to make it easy to adapt for your application.\n\n\nHere's an example from Thingiverse.\n\n\nYou can find a download, install instructions or source code for OpenSCAD here.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5951,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Arvind Gupta,2.528907649931287,2.9728043627528558,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Raw material for 3D printed injection mold,\"If I have to make an injection mold (for resin based raw material) using 3D printing, what raw material should I choose – PLA, ABS, HIPS etc.\n\",Spehro Pefhany,\"P20 mold steel is one standard. Hardened parts are required for long life, depending on the service and material (some materials are quite abrasive). \n\nYou can get a small number of relatively poor quality shots out of epoxy if it is properly supported by a metal box. Your best bet if you want to include 3D printing in the equation is probably to use epoxy or lost plastic casting from a 3D-printed master. Aside from the requirements of core and cavity with sufficient strength, there are requirements for vents, cooling tubes (bubblers and such like) ejector pins and slides that complicate most real molds. Productivity demands a high heat transfer rate, for very small quantities of expensive parts, thermal design may be less important. \n\nTemperatures and pressures are very high in injection injection molding- high enough to melt the materials you mention, and the pressures are in the 10K PSI range, so a 4\"\" x 4\"\" projected cavity will have a pressure in the 80 ton region.\n\nIf you have sintered and filled metal 3D parts they may be suitable, but from the prices I've seen you'd be better off to use conventional machining. Finish is also very important if you want the part to come out of the mold, with hours of semi-manual polishing not uncommon. If you don't have fine surface finish you will need extreme draft angles.\n\nThe requirements can be considerably relaxed if you are molding soft parts such as the PVC or TPE overmolds on cables. The pressure is less and the finish less important because the plastic is soft, but the temperatures are still quite high. This is sort of a sub-category of injection molding and specialized machines are used. \n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n5951,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Arvind Gupta,2.528907649931287,2.9728043627528558,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Raw material for 3D printed injection mold,\"If I have to make an injection mold (for resin based raw material) using 3D printing, what raw material should I choose – PLA, ABS, HIPS etc.\n\",Josh Wales,\"Answers above are correct that no plastic mold will work for actual injection molding. Injection molding by definition requires pressure, pressure that would explode a plastic mold. If on the other hand you really just want to print a mold that you can pour epoxy into to get a shape, then you just need to consider a couple factors. \n\n\nHow hot things are going to get since epoxy is exothermic and the thicker the cross section the hotter it'll get.\nHow to keep the epoxy from sticking. \n\n\nFor issue 1 I would pick the material that's available to you with the highest glass transition temperature so it doesn't melt or deform. \n\nFor issue 2 I would use mold release compound before you pour in the epoxy and probably pick the plastic with the lowest surface energy. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5940,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,avc,2.8153892694839717,3.9434205323647253,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Linking an Arduino Mega with RAMPS and an Arduino Uno with CNC Shield to control more stepper motors using Marlin firmware,\"I've been looking for this for a while, and it looks like no one has tried it before.\n\nDoes anyone know if there is a way to link an Arduino Mega with RAMPS as master, with an Arduino Uno with a CNC Shield as slave, and get it to work on Marlin firmware?\n\nWhy do I want to do this? I'm planning to build a DIY heavy duty 3d printer that will use a lot more stepper motors than the typical prusa style machines, and I want to use Arduino to control it instead of custom CNC/stepper/3d printer controller boards.\n\nThank you!\n\nRegards.\n\",profesor79,\"so points to that case:\n\n\nhow are you going to sync master/slave?\nadding more steppers to master (even only for pushing control to slave) will limit speed in the whole system (this is mainly one of the reasons why we shall go to 32-bit platforms to print faster).\n\n\nAs marlin will give you a good grasp to convert g-code into steppers movement, then if you are willing to double or triple steppers number per axis, you can grab dir and step signal and forward it to other steppers drivers without the mess of syncing movement in time and board. If you are going to add a special tooling - then you shall add your mods to firmware as well.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5942,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Josh R.,2.528907649931287,5.755349714422868,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.306096197889172,Help installing my Anet A8 printer to my computer,\"I am a complete noob when it comes to the 3d printing world. I just finished assembling my printer and I plug it into my computer with the included usb cable and nothing happens. My computer does recognize the printer being plugged in but it just says \"\"unrecognized device in com 4\"\". Nothing else past that. Somebody please help me with the following steps that need to be taken to get my CPU talking with my printer. \n\",0scar,\"Your question addresses (USB) computer connection, so that will be addressed in this answer. For connection to the printer, you need 2 things (apart from the apparent things as computer, printer and cable):\n\n\nA working CH340 driver installed on the computer for USB communication with the board,\na piece of software to talk to the computer at a bit transfer rate the printer understands.\n\n\nThe cheap Arduino based boards rely on the CH340 chip for USB communication. You should check whether you have correctly installed this driver. These drivers are erroneous and prone to cause problems. Sometime re-installation works, once did work for me.\n\nThe SD card supplied by Anet contains a folder (on my SD card: .\\A8\\A8资料\\Software\\CH340G Drive) with the installer file of the driver. Once installed properly, you should be able to connect various applications to the A8, provided you use the correct baud rate of 115200.\n\nAll this said, are you asking the correct question? Why do you need to connect to a computer, as you can print just fine by putting sliced .stl files (.gcode files) onto the SD card (when inserted in the computer using the adapter) and reinsert the card again in the printer to select the file using the menu buttons of the printer. Printing from SD card is considered safer then printing via the computer over USB as the print will stop when the PC is shut down or crashes.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n5942,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Josh R.,2.528907649931287,5.755349714422868,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.306096197889172,Help installing my Anet A8 printer to my computer,\"I am a complete noob when it comes to the 3d printing world. I just finished assembling my printer and I plug it into my computer with the included usb cable and nothing happens. My computer does recognize the printer being plugged in but it just says \"\"unrecognized device in com 4\"\". Nothing else past that. Somebody please help me with the following steps that need to be taken to get my CPU talking with my printer. \n\",VAIRAMUTHU,\"Most of the latest Windows 10 systems with high speed USB (USB3.0) fail to recognize USB to Serial connector (which is here: CH430).\n\nTry with a decent self powered USB 2.0 hub that has been seen to fix a majority of USB 3.0 port issues, or try by disabling driver signature enforcement on Win10.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5950,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Josh R.,1.0891412423578797,4.315875336275838,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Trouble uploading Skynet3D to my Anet A8 via Arduino program,\"I'm in distress here fellow people. I'm a noob to 3d printers and want to become an expert. Everybody has to start at the bottom right? Like the title says I'm trying to upload Skynet to my printer and for the board, I'm selecting V.1 even though my arduino board says V.1-5. And for port I'm selecting COM3, which is information I found in device manager, and the file I'm selecting to upload is SkynetV.1.?alfa.ino. After all of that is selected I click upload and I get the following error messages:\n\nSketch uses 114,230 bytes (87%) of program storage space. Maximum is 131,072 bytes.\nGlobal variables use 4,470 bytes of dynamic memory.\navrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 1 of 10: not in sync: resp=0xd6\navrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 2 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x6f\navrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 3 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x80\navrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 4 of 10: not in sync: resp=0xbf\navrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 5 of 10: not in sync: resp=0xae\navrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 6 of 10: not in sync: resp=0xd6\navrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 7 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x02\navrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 8 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x21\navrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 9 of 10: not in sync: resp=0xcc\navrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 10 of 10: not in sync: resp=0xd6\n\n\nPlease help me.\n\",0scar,\"Skynet3D was a very old fork from Marlin firmware, all functionality (more specifically for the odd LCD screens used by Anet) have been merged into Marlin firmware. Just get the latest version of Marlin. The current and final release of branch 1.1.x is 1.1.9 further development will be done in 2.0.x. Version 1.1.9 works perfectly fine for the Anet A8.\n\n\n\nThese error messages are displayed when you have either selected the wrong COM port or wrong Arduino board or have faulty or no drivers installed.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5947,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joe M.,2.1782824847157594,2.998962115503461,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Large 3D printer 10'x10'x4' - Need G-code to tell when it stops extruding and to stop machine,\"We use Simplify and have a large 10’x10’x4’ printer. We need G-code that when the extrusion stops the machine will stop and raise 10 mm as to not to burn the print, so we know where the extrusion stopped. \n\nWe are using beads instead of filament, which work great. We have a mechanical pusher of beads that once it stops spinning, we need a G-code to recognize it is not spinning anymore and to stop the printer at that point and to lift up 10 mm. Printer might go 3-4 days sometimes a week with no problems and all of a sudden no extrusion and machine keeps thinking its printing. We have to start all over. \n\nAny suggestions?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"G-code is likely not the solution to your problem. G-code are simple commands that are executed by the printer (e.g. \"\"heat up the hotend to this temperature\"\" or \"\"move the extruder to this position\"\") but there is no G-code for \"\"detect whether the pusher is still running\"\" (and besides, how could the printer possibly detect whether the pusher is running without hardware to do so?\n\nYou'll likely want to configure your pusher to somehow act as a filament runout sensor. This is a feature in Marlin (smoothieware has something similar) that allows you to pause the print by making an input on one of the control board's pins. You'll need to build hardware that detects the motion of the pusher, and if the motion is interrupted, pulls the FIL_RUNOUT_PIN low (in the case of Marlin). You can then configure what should happen next (e.g. raising the head and stopping the print) using FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SCRIPT (again, only if you're using Marlin).\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n5952,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tobold,3.618048892289167,5.510159670616627,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,1.1827783713261073,0.9002475624891934,Software for adding supports to 3D printed miniatures in STL file,\"My main application for my 3D printer (Zortrax M200 Plus) is making 28 mm scale miniatures for role-playing games. Basically people and animals at 1:60 scale, which means that things like arms, legs, or weapons are only a few millimeters thick. If I use the automatically generated supports of the Z-Suite software, the supports end up being thicker than the model parts, and are impossible to remove.\n\nI had a bit more luck creating support structures with Meshmixer, but am not totally happy with those. So I am looking for other software to edit .STL files to add supports automatically, preferably with an option to edit those support structures easily afterwards. Any ideas?\n\nNote that Zortrax printers only work with proprietary Z-Suite software, so the software that adds the support also needs to be able to export the model with the supports into an STL file, not just gcode.\n\",Jeff F.,\"Materialise Magics (STL fixer) is what I have heard works very well. In the process now of trying to get the boss to buy a seat for use with models being made on a Carbon DLS printer. \n\nhttp://www.materialise.com/en/software/magics\n\n(keep me posted with what you find out. I am currently in the same boat and exploring options while minimizing cost but also want good software and am willing to pay. makes sense, I know)\n\nEdit - Netfabb has free software available.\n\",0.0,0.0\n5952,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tobold,3.618048892289167,5.510159670616627,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,1.1827783713261073,0.9002475624891934,Software for adding supports to 3D printed miniatures in STL file,\"My main application for my 3D printer (Zortrax M200 Plus) is making 28 mm scale miniatures for role-playing games. Basically people and animals at 1:60 scale, which means that things like arms, legs, or weapons are only a few millimeters thick. If I use the automatically generated supports of the Z-Suite software, the supports end up being thicker than the model parts, and are impossible to remove.\n\nI had a bit more luck creating support structures with Meshmixer, but am not totally happy with those. So I am looking for other software to edit .STL files to add supports automatically, preferably with an option to edit those support structures easily afterwards. Any ideas?\n\nNote that Zortrax printers only work with proprietary Z-Suite software, so the software that adds the support also needs to be able to export the model with the supports into an STL file, not just gcode.\n\",Chris Bloom,\"I see that you've already tried Meshmixer and didn't find it helpful, but I wanted to call out an article and accompanying video that I recently found which helped me understand Meshmixer's support generation feature a bit better. It isn't magic, but it is pretty flexible and you can customize them. Plus, you can export them either as a separate file (to be imported via Slic3r's Load Part for example), or as part of the primary object STL file (though you loose the ability to set different print settings for the supports). Much of my printer's time is also devoted to 28mm figurines and I've had varied success with them. There are some models whose detail is too fine and which require too much support to be worth it considering the cleanup - I have a bucket-of-shame that's full of them. I just ordered an upgrade for my printer to allow me to print with multiple filament and I'll be seeing if soluble support material is helpful for those small details. Barring that, I've found that some prints do better with Meshmixer's supports while others do better with simplify3d supports, while others still do better with slic3r supports. \n\nSummarizing the article on custom Meshmixer supports:\n\n\n \n Open your model in Meshmixer\n From the top menu select View – Show Printer Bed\n Select Edit – Transform and move the model to the middle of the print bed\n \n \n This step is important because Meshmixer won’t generate any supports outside of the print area\n \n If you want to print the model on a different scale, scale the model now, again by using the Edit – Transform. It’s better to scale\n the model now, because an additional change of scale later in slicer\n would also affect the generated supports, resulting in either too thin\n and weak supports or too thick and hard to remove supports.\n \n \n Change the Scale X (Scale Y and Scale Z) to the desired value (1 = 100%, 1.5 = 150% etc.)\n \n Select Analysis – Overhangs\n \n \n You can now adjust the Angle Thresh and see a live preview of areas of the model that should be supported\n \n Click on Generate Support to see a preview of the support structure\n \n \n Every time you make changes to the support settings you’ll have to click on Remove Support and Generate Support to refresh the view\n \n \n\n\n(The video in the article goes into greater detail on the settings available in step 6.)\n\n\n \n Adding and removing supports manually\n \n \n You can create a new support by left-clicking and dragging from an overhang to the ground or from an existing support to the ground\n Hold down the Shift key to ignore intersections of the support strut or any other warning and force Meshmixer to generate the new\n support (use wisely)\n You can also click on an existing support to generate a new strut going down to the build plate\n CTRL + Left click on an existing support to remove it\n \n When you’re happy with the support structure you can export the model and the support structure together as STL by simply clicking\n Done and clicking on the Export button in the left menu\n Alternatively, you can select Convert to Solid to create a separate mesh from the support structure. This will let you set different\n settings in Slic3r for the supports and for the model itself\n \n \n After choosing Convert to Solid choose Edit – Separate shells\n Export both the model and the supports as individual STL files\n In Slic3r first load the STL with the model\n Double-click on the model and choose Load part…, select the supports STL file\n When the STL loads, you can overwrite some of the settings by clicking on the green plus icon\n \n \n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5969,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bort,3.0576060275493275,5.063146730592337,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,\"Getting bumps/warts on surface, Cura doesn't want to comb?\",\"I have not been able to print smooth and round shapes using Cura 3.3.1 (or earlier) without bumps. I think they are seams? The filament is PLA.\n\nCombing is enabled, which I thought makes it so that the nozzle travels over already printed areas, instead of flying over the air...right?\n\nI have been able to keep the seems hidden for the most part when there are sharp corners. Sometimes cura hides the seems properly...sometimes it doesn't. \n\nHere is an example shape I have tried printing with several different settings:\n\n\n\nThe object above was printed using \"\"random\"\" seam corner preference. If I had chosen \"\"sharpest corner\"\", the bumps would all just stack up in one place, but still stick out.\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nJust look at the travel lines below! Why is it jumping all over the place?\n\n\n\n\n\nI have tried \"\"Avoid printed parts when traveling\"\" enabled and disabled, doesn't seem to make much difference.\n\nI feel that there should be a configuration that results in the nozzle not jumping through the air like that, but I can't find it. Perhaps that's not related to the bumps?\n\nThe printer is a MonoPrice Mini Delta.\n\",Greenonline,\"Following on from Toon's answer, here is a run down of Thomas Sanladerer's excellent\n video: 3D printing guides: Calibration and why you might be doing it wrong.\n\nHowever, this may not be a definitive answer to the actual question about warts and bumps...\n\n\n\n0:08 - A step back\n\nBack in time - when the RepRap project (and the hobby grade 3D printing market) was new territory - it was seen to be a doable technology, with no restrictions imposed by patents. The new printers created and developed included Darwin, Sells Mendel and Prusa Mendel. These often produced unusable parts.\n\nHowever, impromptu solutions, or kludges led to poor quality fixes giving poor quality prints, by today's standards. However, people (today) believe that because they worked back then,. that they must still be valid solutions today. However this is not necessarily the case. \n\nThe common misconception is that it is necessary to calibrate the esteps per mm for all axes other than extruder - adjusting the x, y and z esteps per mm until the 10 mm cube measures exactly 10x10x10 mm, even if that means squeezing the callipers.\n\n\n\n\n 1:25 - Car analogy\n \n You find that your car pulls to the left, when going in a straight\n line, so you adjust the steering. However, then in hard corners and\n the rain the car handles poorly. \n \n Upon closer inspection, it then turns out that the car had a flat\n tyre. You wouldn't compensate for having a flat tyre by adjusting the\n steering, now would you?\n\n\n\n\nIn order to get that 10 mm cube precise, it is usual to calibrate for the filament diameter, and extrusion multiplier (most straightforward option), but some printers aren't even that precise in the first place.\n\nMechanical, ripple, slaw, blacklash, can throw you off by 0.1 mm. Compensation for this 0.1 mm is certainly possible and achievable. However, then for a larger print, say 100 mm, then these overcompensation will become more evident, and you will be one entire milimeter off the desired dimensions.\n\nSo, use the ideal calculated esteps per mm. Timing belts and threaded rods are made to tight tolerances. therefore the worst case of ideal step per mm setting is an inaccuracy of 0.5%.\n\nSo, to find the ideal calculated steps use Prusa's calculator which is very good indeed. \n\nIf you are not using belts, or very large printer, then it is worth recalibrating the steps per mm for x and y, as 0.5% will make a noticeable difference in larger parts.\n\nUse the files and instructions for these Calibration sticks on Youmagine, for proper recalibrating without results slewed by the extrusion multiplier being off by a bit.\n\n3:45 - So what do I need to do?\n\nWhat do you need to empirically calibrate your printer? In actual fact, not all that much:\n\n\nextruder steps per mm setting\nextrusion multiplier (see video link - Extruder calibration)\nprint speed, jerk and acceleration settings - These depend upon how much quality you want to sacrifice for increased speed.\n\nPro-tip: slow your printing down. For example, try printing at half speed. Quality may be improved, and even if it isn't you will be able to observe more clearly what is happening, and going wrong.\n(see video link - Super Fast Guide:Tuning Speeds)\n\n\n4:30 - Other than that?\n\nThere is not much else needs calibrating, per se.\n\nWith regards to slicer software, there are only a certain range of settings make sense, but this isn't printer calibration. You simply learn the slicer software and, with familiarity, see how far you can go.\n\nThese days any well maintained and well built and solid printer will produce good prints.\n\nMost slicers give you decent prints without tweaking or calibrating, other than the basic settings about your printer and deciding how the part should be printed.\n\nWhat about print temp and retract settings? Well, just use the default settings, or settings which depend upon the type of filament. So, no calibration is required there, as it is a property of the filament.\n\n5:24 - Summing up\n\nDon't try to calibrate everything\n\nThe technology, in particular the software, i.e. slicers, is still developing and improving. Slic3r's prototpye beta (in Nov 2014) has added compensation for fitting errors(?) without messing other things up, which is essentially what the cube calibration tries to do, but in the correct way.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5969,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bort,3.0576060275493275,5.063146730592337,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,\"Getting bumps/warts on surface, Cura doesn't want to comb?\",\"I have not been able to print smooth and round shapes using Cura 3.3.1 (or earlier) without bumps. I think they are seams? The filament is PLA.\n\nCombing is enabled, which I thought makes it so that the nozzle travels over already printed areas, instead of flying over the air...right?\n\nI have been able to keep the seems hidden for the most part when there are sharp corners. Sometimes cura hides the seems properly...sometimes it doesn't. \n\nHere is an example shape I have tried printing with several different settings:\n\n\n\nThe object above was printed using \"\"random\"\" seam corner preference. If I had chosen \"\"sharpest corner\"\", the bumps would all just stack up in one place, but still stick out.\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nJust look at the travel lines below! Why is it jumping all over the place?\n\n\n\n\n\nI have tried \"\"Avoid printed parts when traveling\"\" enabled and disabled, doesn't seem to make much difference.\n\nI feel that there should be a configuration that results in the nozzle not jumping through the air like that, but I can't find it. Perhaps that's not related to the bumps?\n\nThe printer is a MonoPrice Mini Delta.\n\",Toon,\"Have you correctly calibrated your steps per mm a.k.a. esteps? Tom made a great video about it:\n\n3D printing guides: Calibration and why you might be doing it wrong\n\",0.0,0.0\n5971,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bas,3.452496054252184,3.989201467243909,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"What is wrong with my \"\"disable sensor\"\" gcode?\",\"I have a spool of translucent PLA filament that doesn't work well with the filament sensor on my Prusa i3 MK3. The translucency trips up the sensor, making it think the filament ran out. I thought I'd create a filament profile in Slic3r and disable the sensor in the \"\"Start G-code\"\" block that gets inserted at the beginning of the exported gcode file. \n\nI've got the following code:\n\nM900 K{if printer_notes=~/.*PRINTER_HAS_BOWDEN.*/}200{else}30{endif}; Filament gcode\nM406 ; Disable filament sensor\nM117 Filament sensor OFF\n\n\nThe first line is provided by Prusa's default PLA profile. The second line should disable the sensor, and the third line should print the \"\"Filament sensor OFF\"\" message. If I look in the gcode, it's there:\n\nG92 E0.0\nM221 S95\nM900 K30; Filament gcode\nM406 ; Disable filament sensor\nM117 Filament sensor OFF\nG21 ; set units to millimeters\nG90 ; use absolute coordinates\nM83 ; use relative distances for extrusion\n;BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE\n\n\nBut if I print this gcode file, I see no message, and when checking the sensor in the \"\"Tune\"\" menu while printing, the sensor is still on.\n\nI thought I might have a problem with line endings, but looking at the file in a hex editor, all the lines seem to end with a 0A line feed character, including mine. \n\nWhy isn't my printer doing anything with the M406 and M117 messages? Full gcode file here.\n\",profesor79,\"As per github PR this is not implemented - see this PR for details\nPlease check if your printer is processing M406 by issuing it manually.\n\nIn meantime, a sticker on the sensor will help you to print :)\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5971,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bas,3.452496054252184,3.989201467243909,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"What is wrong with my \"\"disable sensor\"\" gcode?\",\"I have a spool of translucent PLA filament that doesn't work well with the filament sensor on my Prusa i3 MK3. The translucency trips up the sensor, making it think the filament ran out. I thought I'd create a filament profile in Slic3r and disable the sensor in the \"\"Start G-code\"\" block that gets inserted at the beginning of the exported gcode file. \n\nI've got the following code:\n\nM900 K{if printer_notes=~/.*PRINTER_HAS_BOWDEN.*/}200{else}30{endif}; Filament gcode\nM406 ; Disable filament sensor\nM117 Filament sensor OFF\n\n\nThe first line is provided by Prusa's default PLA profile. The second line should disable the sensor, and the third line should print the \"\"Filament sensor OFF\"\" message. If I look in the gcode, it's there:\n\nG92 E0.0\nM221 S95\nM900 K30; Filament gcode\nM406 ; Disable filament sensor\nM117 Filament sensor OFF\nG21 ; set units to millimeters\nG90 ; use absolute coordinates\nM83 ; use relative distances for extrusion\n;BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE\n\n\nBut if I print this gcode file, I see no message, and when checking the sensor in the \"\"Tune\"\" menu while printing, the sensor is still on.\n\nI thought I might have a problem with line endings, but looking at the file in a hex editor, all the lines seem to end with a 0A line feed character, including mine. \n\nWhy isn't my printer doing anything with the M406 and M117 messages? Full gcode file here.\n\",0scar,\"When you download the latest version of your firmware you find the implementation of all the codes in Marlin_main.cpp. Here you see that the M406 is not implemented! Hence it does not work. \n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5986,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Xenos,3.452496054252184,4.632207061490679,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.929104701733314,4.410384278773418,Why turning off model cooling for first layer?,\"I had few printing troubles for first layer yesterday (will certainly ask there as soon as I can take photos) but one of the things I've noticed is that the model cooling fan (the fan that is supposed to blow air on the printed model, not the fan that regulates the noozle temperature) is turned off for printing the first layer.\n\nIt's a Dagoma DiscoEasy200, printing PLA on a non-heating bed (blue tape).\n\nWandering down stackexchange, I also read turn off the part fan for the first layer from https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5494/10836\n\nSo my question is:\n\nwhat's the reason behind turning off the part/model-fan for the first layer?\n\",0scar,\"Filament expands as it gets hot. Cooling the filament will make it shrink, so cooling the filament deposited on the bed can lead to adhesion problems and warping of your products. This is exactly the reason why you use a heated bed (the delta temperature is smaller). So keep the cooling off for the first layers and you'll be fine.\n\n\n\nAdditionally (having answered the question for not using cooling air for the first layer), I would like to add that sometimes you won't need any cooling at all (for other layers), or very little cooling.\n\nPlease do note that some filaments do not like to be cooled down too fast; this may lead to weaker layer bonding or other issues. E.g. POM filament will harden very quickly when cooled causing the nozzle to bump on the quickly hardened filament knocking the product over. Also I found that too much cooling air when using PETG leads to \"\"string-cheese\"\" products caused by insufficient layer bonding. ABS is reported to be even more sensitive for cooling (shrinkage during cooling is higher than of PLA or PETG filaments); a frequent advice is not to use filament cooling when using ABS filament.\n\",3.367452517504837,2.0769199823829045\n5989,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Xenos,3.267423727073639,5.764434510001458,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Print only part (fraction) of a model,\"I've made a 9H-printing model tonight, and only a little part of it failed (because a support dropped off). I want to reprint only that little part.\n\nHow can I do that in Cura? How can I tell Cura to generate a gcode file so only that little part (inside the transparent cube below) will be printed?\n\n\n\nI've placed the model upside-down on the Cura plate to \"\"cut off\"\" what was well printed. I've made a simple 3D cube model in Blender and placed it so it intersect with the part I want to print (I've set the \"\"mesh type\"\" of that cube to \"\"don't support overlaps\"\" for that). I've tried using \"\"Mesh fixes: disable Union Overlapping Volumes\"\" and the \"\"Merge meshes\"\" option, but the merge aligns the cube origin and the model origin (which I don't want).\n\nWhat's the proper way to do such partial printing?\n\",0scar,\"The most recent versions of Cura cannot do that for you. This is a removed feature (or better said: not ported from the old application to the new application), so installing an older version of Cura may work for you.\n\nAlternatively there are many more pieces of (free) software that can do that for you. E.g. MeshMixer or the Slic3r application can do that for you. This video shows a demonstration how to do that.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5989,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Xenos,3.267423727073639,5.764434510001458,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Print only part (fraction) of a model,\"I've made a 9H-printing model tonight, and only a little part of it failed (because a support dropped off). I want to reprint only that little part.\n\nHow can I do that in Cura? How can I tell Cura to generate a gcode file so only that little part (inside the transparent cube below) will be printed?\n\n\n\nI've placed the model upside-down on the Cura plate to \"\"cut off\"\" what was well printed. I've made a simple 3D cube model in Blender and placed it so it intersect with the part I want to print (I've set the \"\"mesh type\"\" of that cube to \"\"don't support overlaps\"\" for that). I've tried using \"\"Mesh fixes: disable Union Overlapping Volumes\"\" and the \"\"Merge meshes\"\" option, but the merge aligns the cube origin and the model origin (which I don't want).\n\nWhat's the proper way to do such partial printing?\n\",mardocheo,\"The latest version of Ultimaker Cura can do that (version 3.6).\n\nI have built models made of different material in the same model.\n\nHow to do this is:\n\n\nSelect your CUBE and select the icon \"\"Per Model Setting\"\" in left side menu.\nchoice \"\"Normal model\"\", select the following settings: Top/bottom thickness, wall thickness and infill percentage\nVery Important: all above settings must be set to 0!\nSelect the model you desire to print and select the icon \"\"Per Model Setting\"\" in left side menu\nchoice \"\"Modify settings for overlap with other model\"\" and select the following settings: Top/bottom thickness, wall thickness and infill percentage\nSelect the desired infill percentage and the wall top/bottom thickness for the portion you want print\nslice the model\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n5996,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dgrat,2.528907649931287,4.39592816477558,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Uneven wall thickness with test cube,\"I noticed that one edge (which is also the starting point of the print) is always bigger than the other three. Additionally, the walls do not have the same thickness as well. The wall thickness (starting from the thick edge) starts very thin and gets thicker till reaching the thick edge again. Does anyone have a clue whats the issue?\n\n \n\n\n\",StarWind0,\"This happens when you have poor retraction / oozing. \n\nSigns of too high temp and poor retraction \n\n\nThick blob at start point, meaning moltin plastic is oozing out as you change Z position\nAs you see at the end of the line less material, you prematurely oozed out liquid plastic. As the melt zone is depeleated you get thinner lines.\n\n\nSolutions\n\n\nIncrease retraction distance. This will remove the plastic from the melt zone and prevent some of the oozing.\nSpeed up Z axis lower and raising. Or decrease distances\nLower temps. Start with 3 cel increments. You want to go as low as you can without causing print defects.\n\n\nYou will likely need to do 1 and 3. 2 you really shouldn't need after you fix your temps. \n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n5996,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dgrat,2.528907649931287,4.39592816477558,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Uneven wall thickness with test cube,\"I noticed that one edge (which is also the starting point of the print) is always bigger than the other three. Additionally, the walls do not have the same thickness as well. The wall thickness (starting from the thick edge) starts very thin and gets thicker till reaching the thick edge again. Does anyone have a clue whats the issue?\n\n \n\n\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"As Fernando suggests, the problem is likely with your source file. One easy way to verify this is to slice twice, rotating the STL by 90 degrees. If both prints produce fat/thin sides in the same dimension on the print bed, then it's a printer problem. If the fat side rotated with the STL orientation, then the STL is at fault. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6315,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dgrat,2.528907649931287,4.493122147543338,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Underextrusion after travel moves with PETG/Colorfab XT,\"I came across several issues which seem to have been lowered.\nFirstly, I changed from a 0.4 to a 0.5 mm nozzle. Because of the backpressure I was not able to print my PETG (Colorfabb XT filament) below 270°C which caused unresolvable oozing. After that I was able to extrude till 230°C.\n\nThe left print below shows the result. I disassembled the hotend, there was no leak or whatsoever. Maybe it was too cold for printing. However, the temperature displayed was 250°C. Then I replaced the cheap aluminum heat block with a copper alloy based one. After that my PIDs did not work anymore. I had to greatly enhance the d-term, otherwise there was a big overshoot. Guess there was a serious heat conducting issue with the old BQ hotend. \n\n\n\nAnyway, from there it became better. However, I noticed that I still have severe underextrusion after travel moves (second piece, first picture, first piece, second picture). I use Cura, so I activated retraction with the feature to prime after travel moves. I got the wall closed just after 0.35 mm³. \n\n\n\nMy Question: Is this underextrusion after travel moves normal for PETG/XT? I did not discover such behavior with PLA or ABS in the past. \n\nCurrent Site Advice: Despite the weight, copper heat blocks seem to be worth the upgrade. \n\",Brian Chow,\"Have you tried adjusting the Extra Restart Distance in Simplify3D or Retraction Extra Prime in Ultimaker Cura? Most slicers should have a similar setting, perhaps named just slightly differently. A small positive value can help prime the nozzle after a long travel when you've lost back pressure or oozed a little.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6315,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dgrat,2.528907649931287,4.493122147543338,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Underextrusion after travel moves with PETG/Colorfab XT,\"I came across several issues which seem to have been lowered.\nFirstly, I changed from a 0.4 to a 0.5 mm nozzle. Because of the backpressure I was not able to print my PETG (Colorfabb XT filament) below 270°C which caused unresolvable oozing. After that I was able to extrude till 230°C.\n\nThe left print below shows the result. I disassembled the hotend, there was no leak or whatsoever. Maybe it was too cold for printing. However, the temperature displayed was 250°C. Then I replaced the cheap aluminum heat block with a copper alloy based one. After that my PIDs did not work anymore. I had to greatly enhance the d-term, otherwise there was a big overshoot. Guess there was a serious heat conducting issue with the old BQ hotend. \n\n\n\nAnyway, from there it became better. However, I noticed that I still have severe underextrusion after travel moves (second piece, first picture, first piece, second picture). I use Cura, so I activated retraction with the feature to prime after travel moves. I got the wall closed just after 0.35 mm³. \n\n\n\nMy Question: Is this underextrusion after travel moves normal for PETG/XT? I did not discover such behavior with PLA or ABS in the past. \n\nCurrent Site Advice: Despite the weight, copper heat blocks seem to be worth the upgrade. \n\",R..,\"Zero retraction is just a special (worst) case of under-retraction. You'll pretty much always lose material to oozing if you don't retract before travel. At best this ends up hidden inside the print (but can still affect weight and weight balance); usually it'll also harm the surface.\n\nEnsure that retraction is set to always happen (not skipping short travel), and at least 5-6 mm for bowden extruders. Direct extruders can get away with less but I'm not sure exactly how much less. Less-rigid materials need more retraction to make up for compression of the filament between the extruder gear and the nozzle.\n\",0.0,0.0\n7205,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dgrat,1.726248027126092,4.320852651915707,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,\"First move after Start gcode, to start position (but before printing) is way too fast\",\"I have a delta printer. The problem is that after the start gcode is executed and the extruder head is 15 (Pic: x0) mm above the center of the plate, the first move towards the start (x1) of the actual print is performed at (maximum possible?) speed @ infinite acceleration. After that the print is performed with regular acceleration. This can cause missing steps. \n\nThe problem seems to arise after the start gcode section. How can I fix it. I use Cura 3.5.\n\n\n\nStart gcode\n\nG28 ;Home\nG1 F1000\nG1 Z15.0\nG92 E0\nG1 F200 E3\nG92 E0\n\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"By way of comparison, here's what Cura writes as the header of a gcode file. You may want to adjust some of the default parameters in your Cura settings. (this header was same for both the default Prusa and the default Deltabot printer settings) \n\n;FLAVOR:Marlin\n;TIME:67934\n;Filament used: 22.2173m\n;Layer height: 0.06\n;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.5.0\nM140 S60\nM105\nM190 S60\nM104 S200\nM105\nM109 S200\nM82 ;absolute extrusion mode\nG21 ;metric values\nG90 ;absolute positioning\nM82 ;set extruder to absolute mode\nM107 ;start with the fan off\nG28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops\nG28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops\nG1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length\nG1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again\nG1 F9000\n;Put printing message on LCD screen\nM117 Printing...\nG92 E0\nG1 F1500 E-6.5\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7329,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dgrat,3.452496054252184,3.2043470614382206,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.104288080884247,Delta Printer: Slighty incorrect print alignment on the build plate,\"After building a Delta printer, I noticed that my whole prints are slightly tilted around the Z-axis in comparison to the slicer (e.g. Cura). There is no twist layer wise. This means, the prints themself look actually perfect. \n\nI just don't know what could be the reason of the rotation. I do not believe it is a build issue of the printer, because I tried to keep the printer frame pretty stiff and symmetric. \nCould it be, that the Auto-Calibrate Feature of Marlin can add such a rotation?\n\nThe picture below illustrates the problem. I expect the black alignment of the print and get the orange one. Note that the print is still a rectangle with ~90° corners. \n\n\n\",StarWind0,\"If I am reading this correctly, your prints are being either stretched or your prints are shifting / leaning on more complicated prints. \n\nIn this case, given that you are on a Delta printer, my answer is the same for all. I usually do Cartesian based 3d printing but the concept is the same for any drifting or leaning. You simply need to recalibrate your steps per MM for each motor, and tighten your belts. You will have the complication of the interaction of the 3 arms, that others will be able to answer better. But in the end, if each arm moves as it should, the belts are not slipping, and you do not have issues with moving too fast (jerking can cause the belt to shift, and a loose belt can cause whiplash / and other print artifacts). My bet is your steps per MM is off on one of the motors, or you could have an overheating issue (not likely). \n\nThere are many guides to help with Delta specific calibration. \n\nI can provide a better answer with photos. See Stackoverflows guide on asking questions.\n\nEdit with the diagram (not a photo), you issue might be caused by stepper over voltage and you will need to adjust your pololus. If you hear a repeating Thud noise, you have your voltage too high. \n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7329,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dgrat,3.452496054252184,3.2043470614382206,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.104288080884247,Delta Printer: Slighty incorrect print alignment on the build plate,\"After building a Delta printer, I noticed that my whole prints are slightly tilted around the Z-axis in comparison to the slicer (e.g. Cura). There is no twist layer wise. This means, the prints themself look actually perfect. \n\nI just don't know what could be the reason of the rotation. I do not believe it is a build issue of the printer, because I tried to keep the printer frame pretty stiff and symmetric. \nCould it be, that the Auto-Calibrate Feature of Marlin can add such a rotation?\n\nThe picture below illustrates the problem. I expect the black alignment of the print and get the orange one. Note that the print is still a rectangle with ~90° corners. \n\n\n\",dgrat,\"I figured out that the reason is probably a slightly translated slider construction. Instead of using a proper centered slider as shown in red, I used a slider construction like illustrated in yellow. When all sliders are translated on each tower like this, the print should be tilted by the same amount. This seems to have no influence on the general shape of the object. However, for my next printer I will use a proper centered uni-body slider. \n\n\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n7572,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dgrat,2.1782824847157594,4.037759266168816,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.306096197889172,0.9° motors for Delta printers?,\"I built a cheap Delta printer with ATMega board and 1.8° motors. The micro stepping is limitied to 1/16. Beside a decent print quality, I observe a moire effect on flat surfaces. The moire is clearly caused by a combination of both, the 1.8° motors steps and the low microstepping. \n\nI thought about using 0.9° stepper motors together with a combination of board and drivers which support < 1/32 micro stepping. Is there a comparison somewhere illustrating potential quality differences on larger delta printers and is this the way to remove the moire effect? For cartesian printers I would not bother using such motors, but I noticed that a higher holding torque at smaller steps is desirable for delta printers.\n\nExample \n\nNot one of my prints, but this is how it looks \n\n\",cmm,\"I am looking at the example print you supplied and trying to understand the defects. Was the object printed vertically, so that the object Z-axis is running from top to bottom in the picture? \n\nIf so, then the horizontal defects look like resonance artifacts, which could be caused by the issue you raise of the stepper motor not responding to small movement commands. The only thing that will prevent the motor from responding is stiction, or difficulty starting a movement. Stiction is a non-linear aspect of friction in which the \"\"starting\"\" friction is higher than the \"\"sliding\"\" friction. It might be worth checking for surfaces which must slide against each other, and assure they are lubricated with a dry, non-tacky lubricant.\n\nA typical delta machine behaves the same way on each layer. The equations which govern how high on the tower the top of the delta-leg should be for each x,y, and z point is linear in Z, but non-linear in X and Y. With that in mind, I have no hypothesis to describe the defects that would be described as cathedrals if they were wood grain.\n\nOr, perhaps the object was printed so that the surface shown is parallel to the bed? If so, the defects looks like more than a couple of microsteps. Is it possible that one drive is not working correctly? If so, I would suggest that the motor on the tower pointed to (or pointed from) by the cathedrals is not working like the others. It could be binding too tightly to the tower, or the pully may be loose, or the driver isn't working correctly for one of the two coils.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7572,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dgrat,2.1782824847157594,4.037759266168816,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.306096197889172,0.9° motors for Delta printers?,\"I built a cheap Delta printer with ATMega board and 1.8° motors. The micro stepping is limitied to 1/16. Beside a decent print quality, I observe a moire effect on flat surfaces. The moire is clearly caused by a combination of both, the 1.8° motors steps and the low microstepping. \n\nI thought about using 0.9° stepper motors together with a combination of board and drivers which support < 1/32 micro stepping. Is there a comparison somewhere illustrating potential quality differences on larger delta printers and is this the way to remove the moire effect? For cartesian printers I would not bother using such motors, but I noticed that a higher holding torque at smaller steps is desirable for delta printers.\n\nExample \n\nNot one of my prints, but this is how it looks \n\n\",0scar,\"Delta bots always need all motors to step to maintain a straight level. Microstepping, is not magic, the incremental torque decreases per step so that you will be more likely to miss a few micro-steps. Furthermore, the signal that creates voltages for the micro-step positioning is usually not perfectly sinusoidal (pulse-width voltage modulation is used to achieve micro-stepping by controlling the current; the driver sends two voltage sine waves, 90 degrees out of phase to the motor windings), micro-stepping drives can only approximate a true sine wave. This means that some torque ripples, resonance, and noise remains and hence resulting in odd stepper behavior, like seen below from this ref. (after the half step the stepper jumps to the full step and maintains that value for a while):\n\n\n\nThis is seen as a Moiré pattern in your printed products. As an example, if the head is moved in Z direction by micro-step, you will almost certainly notice that the head doesn't move on every micro-step, but only every 3rd or 4th micro-step (as an example). When using higher resolution steppers like the 0.9° stepper motors, you will still miss micro-steps (e.g. the same, so also on every 3rd or 4th micro-step the head moves), but as the micro-step is half the size of that one of a 1.8° stepper motor, the accuracy as in precision and resolution is higher.\n\nIn that sense, if you change your stepper drivers for higher micro-stepping drivers (from 1/16 to 1/32 as you mention), it will not help you improve the resolution much because the incremental torque from one to another 1/32 micro-step is lower than for 1/16 micro-steps as can be seen in the figure below (taken from this ref.). \n\n\n\nSo, using 0.9° motors (and keeping 1/16 micro-stepping) improves positioning accuracy as described above, it will also reduce the noise, because the torque per unit angular error is nearly doubled. Also remember that if you are using 8-bit electronics (you hint to an ATMega board), then even 1/32 micro-stepping burdens the processor to achieve reasonable travel speeds. With 8-bit electronics, it is usually suggested to use 1/16 stepping.\n\nUpgrading an existing printer from 1.8° to 0.9° stepper motors is probably not worth for the majority of users (note that the maximum allowable speed also reduces when using 0.9° stepper motors). Unless you are designing and building a new delta, or aren't on a tight budget you could opt for the additional costs of buying 0.9° stepper motors.\n\nNote that updating to higher micro-stepping values not necessarily implies that the quality of your products also increase. See e.g. this reference.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n8265,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dgrat,2.1782824847157594,3.309844377502676,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Delta Printer: After Calibration X and Y Axis are slightly different,\"I noticed that my x axis is slightly longer than my y axis (~0.6%) if I print an object. What parameter in Marlin can be tuned to correct such issues? The rod length parameter seems to rather influence the overall scaling of the object. The other parameters such as Txyz and Exyz influence the flatness according to the bed. I noticed, on the firmware of the Duet there is a gcode command for this particular issue, which I haven't found in Marlin yet. \n\",Greenonline,\"I think that you probably need to adjust the following two parameters in the Marlin firmware, in configuration.h:\n\n\nMANUAL_HOME_Z_POS, and;\nDELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET\n\n\nSee my answer to Delta printer nozzle not moving square with a perfectly level bed (as if the bed is bent... but it isn't).\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n5999,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mithras,2.8153892694839717,4.352351706852103,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,First layer height problem after changing nozzle,\"I have a problem with my first layer height. But lets start at the beginning:\n\nI own a Tevo Tarantula Dual extruder printer with a endstop switch for Z axis. \nNo Auto bed level. 0.4mm nozzle.\nEverything worked as it should. I home extruder with G28 command and level the bed using a piece of paper or a thickness gauge 0.1mm. In the slicer I set Initial layer height 0.2mm for layer height 0.1mm. The fisrt Layer looked perfect and sticked to the bed fine.\na few days ago it stopped in the middle of a print, nozzle clogged.\nNo problem i changed the nozzle to a spare one i had. It is not the first time i took it apart.\n\nHere starts my problem:\nAfter everything was build together again i home the extruder with G28, level the bed and start a print with the same settings i usualy used to print.\nBut either the first layer didn't stick to the bed at all or looks terrible.\ni tried to level the bed again and also tried to get it to work with playing with the settings. But with no satisfactorily results.\n\nHere is is the part my Question starts:\nI noticed that the first layer is actually not at the same Z=0 if i use G28 to home and the Z0 it shows when i print a part.\nFor example: \nSet G28 Level bed with 0.1mm thickness gauge.\nThen start printing with layer height 0.1mm and initial layer height setting 0.2mm\n\nThe result should be 0.1+0.1+0.2 =0.4 real layer height (if i also count the 0.1 layer heigth(not sure if this is correct)) the printer shows here a Z of 0.2\nBut if i meassure it, it is around 0.7mm thats way to much.\n\n\n\nI am confused why this is the case after i changed the nozzle. Considering i leveled the bed the exact same way i did before and used the same slicer.\nThe new nozzle is a little bit shorter but i made sure both nozzle of the dual extruder have the same height. \nI do not understand why this happens. Is there a way to reset the Z? \nI tried the M851 code but as far as i understand it, it i used for Auto-Bed leveling. It didn't work anyway, says unknown command.\n\nI could work around the problem by adjust the endstop until it somehow works, but then if i want to level the bed and use the G28 code the nozzle would crash into the bed and that is not a satisfactory solution.\nWould it suffice to set a z-offset in the firmware? I don't have much experience on that area.\n\n\n ;FLAVOR:Marlin\n ;TIME:737\n ;Filament used: 0.351177m\n ;Layer height: 0.1\n ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.2.0\n M190 S47\n M104 S197\n M109 S197\n M82 ;absolute extrusion mode\n G21 ;metric values\n G90 ;absolute positioning\n M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode\n M107 ;start with the fan off\n G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops\n G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops\n G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm\n G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length\n G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock\n G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again\n G1 F9000\n ;Put printing message on LCD screen\n M117 Printing...\n ;LAYER_COUNT:9\n ;LAYER:0\n M107\n M204 S2200\n G0 F3000 X75.185 Y64.596 Z0.2\n M204 S1750\n ;TYPE:SKIRT \n G1 F1650 X76.267 Y63.316 E0.06132 \n\n\",profesor79,\"this is a common case in my TT....\nPlease check the y-carriage wheels - on the 2040 and 2020 profile.\nMostly you shall find a little wobble on one of the ends, that introduces instability in leveling, so you could level it, home it and another level is needed. \nIn my case, I decided to upgrade for dual-z drive - please see this\n\nAnother interesting Z upgrade:\noption two\n\nWe can observe z-wobble by watching the x-axis on the left side (no lead screw), it will have a little delay in response when moving up/down comparing to the other side. \n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n6011,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user3095304,2.528907649931287,2.8568583264187786,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Efficient packing of models with chains,\"I have a model where several solids are linked with chains. The original design contains a lot of empty space. \n\nI am looking for software, which can automatically move the solids and fold the chains such that the total build volume gets smaller (total build volume is a major cost driver on shapeways.com). Obviously, the topology of the design must not change, i.e., it should be possible to return the model to the original state without breaking chains. \n\nI tried Blender - Rigid Body Physics, but that has stability issues.\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"This is relatively easy to do in any CAD/mesh software. For example, if you load import the model into Meshmixer, you can select a given solid and N links of chain connected to it (using \"\"expand selection to groups\"\" or similar to be safe). Then use the \"\"Separate\"\" command to allow you to move/rotate that subset on its own. All you have to do is make sure the two chain links at the point of rotation remain disjunct.\nOnce you've moved everything around, just SelectAll and export. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6013,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tomas By,2.8153892694839717,4.070703599356221,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,OpenSCAD library for empty space/holes,\"I am working on a design in OpenSCAD, and need (would want) two things that seem tedious to hand-code:\n\n\nA pattern of holes in a wall, for less weight/material. Could be round holes or some geometric pattern.\nEmpty enclosed space, with some grid-structure for stability. Again, for saving weight/material (and time during the printing).\n\n\nAre there any libraries for these things?\n\",0scar,\"I'm not aware of libraries that do that for you (but you can create your own, see end of the answer), but creating a relieve hole pattern is not that difficult or tedious using iterator functions (e.i. the for loop). Note that it may not be a good idea to make enclosed holes inside your object, see the edit section at the bottom of the answer.\n\nSmall OpenSCAD test script:\n\n tol=0.2;\n\n difference(){\n cube([100,100,10]);\n for (x=[10:20:90]){\n for (y=[10:20:90]){\n translate([x,y,-tol/2]){\n cylinder(r=9,h=10+tol,$fn=180);\n }\n }\n }\n }\n\n\n\n\nThis can be used for both parts of your question, but in case the pattern needs to be inside an object you need to lower the value of h in the subtracting cylinder and raise/translate it (you could use the center=true in the cylinder function as a parameter and raise the center to the middle of your object translate([x,y,objectThickness/2])). You could make a module of the recurring pattern yourself to create your library.\n\nnote: Replace cylinder with cube or any other geometrical solid or (2D) pattern (use linear_extrude) to subtract from your part.\n\n\n\nEDIT:\n\nNote that it is not always wise to create your own spacing/grid structure enclosed in the model. Please read the accepted answer of this question. This answer explains that slicer applications work best with true solids!\n\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6396,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tomas By,2.1782824847157594,4.270706777972662,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Adjusting Z-axis (Monoprice Maker Select),\"Have a Monoprice Maker Select v2 and have recently changed to an Anycubic Ultrabase glass plate. In Cura, the model I am printing is in the middle, as shown here:\n\n\n\nbut the printer puts it around 2/3 of the way up in the Y dimension:\n\n\n\nEdit: I now believe the platform screws were too far down at one point, so that the platform could not move all the way forward, somehow making the printer think the platform is further back than it actually is. The original and the new platforms are the same size, 22x22 cm.\n\n(When I run the Cura \"\"bed levelling wizard\"\", the stops are a bit from the edge at the front, and off the platform at the back, consistent with the theory in the previous paragraph.)\n\nEdit: have now dis-attached the Y-axis belt and moved it back and forth with no improvement. Also, the platform screws hit a couple of bolts at the back, which prevent it from moving all the way back (ie the extruder head forward), which seems to be the reason it is not getting to the front of the platform. I think I will have to increase the Z position first.\n\n\n\nIn the above picture, the platform is much higher than the origin position. This is the `back left' corner. If I lower the platform to the nozzle origin, it cannot move all the way back (ie nozzle cannot reach front). The screws came with the plate (and are different from the ones I had before). With the platform at the height shown in the picture, it moves freely all the way.\n\nSo the question now is: how do I change the Z-axis \"\"origin\"\" position? Have tried to manually adjust and then select \"\"set origin\"\" on the printer menu, but it did not have any noticable effect. When selecting \"\"home\"\" it goes back to the old position.\n\",Tomas By,\"I sawed off about 2mm from the screw in the photo in the question, so now it works as before.\n\nIf somebody has a more cerebral solution I will gladly `accept' it.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6632,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tomas By,3.267423727073639,3.7842189781769173,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Identify temperature sensor,\"Am wondering if anybody knows what type of sensor this is (from a build plate).\n\n\n\nPerhaps a thermocoupler? The colouring of the wires seems to suggest it is not directional?\n\nWould like to know details so that I can make use of it in my own projects.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"It is quite likely not a thermocouple, but a thermistor:\n\n\nA thermocouple would look like a small blob of metal. The tip of your temperature sensor appears to be a glass bead, which is a commonly used way to encase thermistors.\nThermocouples are polarized. The fact that the wiring is not \"\"directional\"\" suggests it is a thermistor.\nThermocouples are used in high-temperature applications (such as a high-temperature hotend for printing specialty materials), where a thermistor would break down. The bed is not such a high-temperature application.\n\n\nYou can easily verify this with a multimeter. If it was a thermocouple, its resistance would be near zero. With a thermistor, you should see a decent amount of resistance (most 3D printing thermistors are 100k at room temperature).\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n7150,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tomas By,2.528907649931287,3.8538768031280664,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,\"Under extrusion, looking for specific information\",\"Have a Monoprice maker select with a Micro Swiss hotend, and am using Cura IIIP.\n\nEdit: plus Janbex PLA 1.75mm filament.\n\nTrying to print a Pi camera mount, but am getting (I believe) under extrusion, as seen here.\n\n\n\nMy Cura settings are these.\n\n\n\nDoes anybody see any obvious problems? What should I try to change?\n\nEdit: have played around with different temperatures, and some other settings (eg the filament diameter), but lost track of the reasons. Was following various instructions on web pages.\n\",0scar,\"Your filament is 1.75 mm, but you specified 1.6 mm in the Filament option Diameter (mm).\n\nFurthermore, your layer thickness is very small (0.06 mm), why not try 0.20 mm first; a thicker layer will cause a higher extrusion flow. It could be that the print speed is too high for the low layer size.\n\nYour initial layer 0.3 mm is also high, the maximum for a 0.4 mm nozzle. \n\n\n\nWhy did you change so many parameters? The standard values work pretty well.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n7159,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tomas By,2.8153892694839717,4.190098673268896,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,Compensating for smaller extruder gear,\"Assume somebody has a Monoprice Maker Select and has changed from the original brass extruder gear to a D4 Plus one, which is slightly smaller (10.6 vs 10.9 mm outer diameter).\n\nThis person might be wondering if he/she needs to compensate for this difference, and which setting that would be in Cura IIIP.\n\n(Have never calibrated the extruder and am still not sure it is absolutely necessary, since the difference in the gear size is only 3%.)\n\",tjb1,\"This will affect your extrusion rate. The best place to change this would be in your E steps located in the firmware but you can also compensate for this by changing the flow percentage in Cura, a setting of 103% (10.9/10.6) should get you close.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n7159,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tomas By,2.8153892694839717,4.190098673268896,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,Compensating for smaller extruder gear,\"Assume somebody has a Monoprice Maker Select and has changed from the original brass extruder gear to a D4 Plus one, which is slightly smaller (10.6 vs 10.9 mm outer diameter).\n\nThis person might be wondering if he/she needs to compensate for this difference, and which setting that would be in Cura IIIP.\n\n(Have never calibrated the extruder and am still not sure it is absolutely necessary, since the difference in the gear size is only 3%.)\n\",0scar,\"If you change the extruder wheel for a different sized wheel, you need to calibrate the extruder to make sure that if you ask to extrude 100 mm it actually extrudes 100 mm. This answer on the question \"\"How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer?\"\" describes how to do that.\n\nIt is not required to flash your firmware. The G-code command M92 can be used to set the new amount of steps for the extruder. The Monoprice Maker Select has a Melzi control board that is running Repetier firmware. This G-code command is supported by Repetier firmware.\n\nYou need to be able to connect a so-called terminal to your printer. Applications as Repetier-Host, Pronterface, OctoPrint, and probably many more have so-called terminals where you can interface with the printer by sending command to it when the printer is connected through USB (please mind the communication speed of the board, called Baud rate, these are not the same for all boards).\n\nSending M503 will report the current settings for M92, e.g.:\n\nM92 X100.00 Y100.00 Z400.00 E100.00\n\n\nExtrude 100 mm without the hotend attached so you can measure the amount that is extruded. If that is 80 mm you need more steps $ \\frac{100\\ mm}{80\\ mm} \\times 100\\ steps/mm = 125\\ steps/mm $\n\nYou now need to send M92 E125 and the new steps are set. Use M500 to store the setting.\n\nYou could also change the flow extrusion parameter in your slicer, but it generally not good practice, it is better to fix the printer rather than adjusting in the slicer. However, if you do want to fix it in the slicer, as mentioned in the comments, you can also add steps setting in the start G-code script: \"\"To get around flashing the new values to the ROM, you can add this to the machine settings in Cura under \"\"Start Gcode\"\" this way it will append your values at the start of every print.\"\". Note that other slicers have similar functionality.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n7162,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tomas By,2.8153892694839717,4.931885241441055,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Apparently systematic nozzle clogging,\"A Monoprice Maker Select V2, upgraded incrementally with a Micro Swiss all metal hot-end, machined lever, and D4 extruder gear, systematically fails to produce complete prints, as seen below:\n\n\n\nThe following observations can be made.\n\n\nThe nozzle clog appears at different heights/elapsed times, so it does not seem to be because of heat creep, which ought to take the same time to take effect, each time.\nAll the clogs so far have been easy to clear manually, once the hotend has been made accessible.\nThe filament (1.75 mm PLA) is quite new, has only been sitting on the spool at the top of the printer, seems regular in density, is not visibly damaged etc.\nIn the original configuration, before the upgrading, the printer worked fine for some months.\n\n\nOne possible explanation might be inconsistent temperature in the extruder, but the display does not show any great variation.\n\nAny other theories? These latest prints were made at 210 °C.\n\n\n\nThe nozzle clogging was verified, each time, by trying to extrude using the printer controls; and then cleaned manually by taking off the \"\"cold end\"\" part, heating the extruder, and pressing the remaining filament out by hand.\n\nNot so long ago the nozzle was cleaned with ethyl acetate and a needle, so I do not believe carbon build-up is the explanation.\n\nCura settings:\n\n\n\",0scar,\"The Micro Swiss hotend uses an all metal hotend. These type of hotends are more difficult to operate considering they do not have a Teflon liner that shield the filament of heat creep. From this article: \n\n\n Jams and clogs are often from a combination of excessive heat and\n non-optimal material flow. This effect is worsened by poorly cooled\n all-metal hot ends, high torque extruder gears, small nozzles/layers,\n slow printing speeds, too thin first layer, and excessive retraction.\n\n\nThe bold faced text in the quote sums up what is causing this. A smaller gear requires more force/torque as the arm i.e. the radius is smaller.\n\nThe article describes what steps you could do to alleviate the problem. Of all the suggestions, \"\"Minimize retraction\"\", seems a possible candidate for you to look into considering the posted print settings. As this is a heat related problem it is advised to also increase your printing speeds, these are pretty low (30 mm/s for slow and 60 mm/s for normal printing) and also check the cooling of the \"\"cold end\"\" (the fan that cools the radiator fins). Also reduce the printing temperature, 210 °C is pretty high for PLA filament, personally I don't go over 200 °C (note that this depends on your filament, but most PLA brands can be printed in the 185 - 195 °C range).\n\nYou have a pretty large retraction specified. The Ultimaker default is 6.5 mm is considered to be large, but works perfectly for Ultimaker machines (read Bowden tube setup). In my Ultimaker 3E which uses all metal hotends, or, in my custom HyperCube Evolution, also Bowden, but with a lined hotend, 6.5 mm retraction works perfectly.\n\nPlease look into this answer and this answer. Both describe that the retraction performance is worse with all metal hotends. My experiences are exactly the same with metal hotends, at least the cheaper production ones (I tested cheap all metal hotends, but also ran into problems because of production and design errors, I have not tried the better quality heat breaks/throats yet).\n\nPlease lower the retraction setting considerably to see if it has an effect. The Monoprice Maker Select uses a direct drive. Direct drive extruders do not need a large retraction length setting. If the filament is hot in the throat (as there is no PTFE lining that in fact acts as an insulator), too large of a retraction may not be reversed when the filament cooles during the retraction.\n\n\n\nI think you might be experiencing what is described in this question: \"\"Extruder prints fine up until further down the print\"\". This answer describes issues of the metal heat breaks.\n\nTo comment on your statement in comments above, I am not suggesting you should use a liner in your current extruder. I'm pointing out the differences. Metal hotends are just more tricky to operate regarding retraction and heat management.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n7162,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tomas By,2.8153892694839717,4.931885241441055,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Apparently systematic nozzle clogging,\"A Monoprice Maker Select V2, upgraded incrementally with a Micro Swiss all metal hot-end, machined lever, and D4 extruder gear, systematically fails to produce complete prints, as seen below:\n\n\n\nThe following observations can be made.\n\n\nThe nozzle clog appears at different heights/elapsed times, so it does not seem to be because of heat creep, which ought to take the same time to take effect, each time.\nAll the clogs so far have been easy to clear manually, once the hotend has been made accessible.\nThe filament (1.75 mm PLA) is quite new, has only been sitting on the spool at the top of the printer, seems regular in density, is not visibly damaged etc.\nIn the original configuration, before the upgrading, the printer worked fine for some months.\n\n\nOne possible explanation might be inconsistent temperature in the extruder, but the display does not show any great variation.\n\nAny other theories? These latest prints were made at 210 °C.\n\n\n\nThe nozzle clogging was verified, each time, by trying to extrude using the printer controls; and then cleaned manually by taking off the \"\"cold end\"\" part, heating the extruder, and pressing the remaining filament out by hand.\n\nNot so long ago the nozzle was cleaned with ethyl acetate and a needle, so I do not believe carbon build-up is the explanation.\n\nCura settings:\n\n\n\",dgrat,\"There are several reasons why the nozzles can clog. \n\nTemperature:\n\nIf you set the temperature too low, the force to push the filament through the nozzle gets up. This can lead to filament grinding and this can lead to clogging. If you set the temperature too high while not extruding, the filament can degrade, which may lead to clogging. So always test the temperature and viscosity by manual pushing filament through the nozzle. \n\nNozzle Size:\n\nMany users do not like to change the nozzle but for many filaments 0.4 mm is not advisable. Try 0.6 mm. The print quality is nearly the same @ similar layer sizes, print time goes down a bit and the likelyhood for clogging is close to zero. Reason is that the flow resistance is proportional to r^4.\n\nGrind dust/traction force -> Retraction: \n\nI suggest a max of 2 mm to 2.5 mm for direct extruders. Higher values bring no benefit and lead to filament grinding. Bowden Extruders can use values > 5 mm due to bending sometimes.\n\nFeeder Spring\n\nSometimes the spring of the feeder loses tension over time, thus the filement is not pushed forward and instead, grinded down. \n\nFeeder Gear\n\nAnother problem can be related with the pushing gear of the feeder (which you mount on the motor). I use gears with fewer theeth. They produce traction force and stay clean from grinding dust. Gears with many small teeth become dusty and produce less traction force.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n8490,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tomas By,1.0891412423578797,3.469045931690484,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,\"OpenSCAD \"\"not valid 2-manifold\"\" useful information\",\"OpenSCAD suggests that \"\"object may not be a valid 2-manifold\"\" but it looks perfectly fine in OpenSCAD and in Meshlab.\n\nHave looked through the file several times, and cannot find any point or line intersections, they all overlap in 3D.\n\nIs there some useful software for diagnosing this? It seems to me it ought to be trivial to for example highlight the offending volumes, rather than just print a general error message with no details whatsoever.\n\nEdit: slicing it in Cura works fine also.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Occasionally, a model created in OpenSCAD will have, as you suggest, overlapping segments. Often enough, this will generate the message you receive. OpenSCAD has an implied union function when it comes to independent objects, but if you wish to clear those errors, experiment with explicit union statements where you have joining objects. It may be necessary to join only one pair at a time to clear the error.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10352,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tomas By,1.726248027126092,2.392932446014159,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Find OpenSCAD code from image,\"I have an OpenSCAD model which I am looking at in the application, code to the left and the rendering to the right.\n\nAm trying to modify a certain piece, and have commented out all the commands that I believed were related to that piece, but there is still one subtracted cube left, i.e. somewhere in the code there is a difference block with this cube command somewhere in the 2nd part (I believe, as I cannot see any other possibility).\n\nIt would be very nice if I could just click on the image and get the software to display the corresponding commands in the code.\n\nIs anything like that available in any tool?\n\",R..,\"To my knowledge, OpenSCAD does not have any such feature. However, a related feature might help you: the debugging aid modifier characters. By inserting %, #, !, or * before an object (including aggregate objects), you can control how it renders in relation to the whole file; this makes it possible to do \"\"binary search\"\" type operations to figure out where the object you're seeing is.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10435,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tomas By,-1.0891412423578797,2.634955868424173,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Print times not accurate (Ultimaker Cura),\"I am using Ultimaker Cura (4.1.0) as slicer and a Monoprice Maker Select 3D printer and have noticed that the reported print times when slicing are something like 25 % less than the actual time it takes to print.\n\nIs there some practicality factor involved here? Have I failed to enter all relevant printer properties in Ultimaker Cura? Are these reported times not actually meant to correspond to reality?\n\nAny insight is gratefully received.\n\",R..,\"Most likely Ultimaker Cura is not aware of the firmware's default limits on acceleration or jerk. Make sure they match either by increasing the printer's limits or decreasing the ones in the print profile to match.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10550,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tomas By,1.726248027126092,3.3206222047196907,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,\"Build plate adhesion, PLA\",\"Am just wondering if any conclusions can be drawn from this:\n\n\n\nThree corners are solid, but not the one in the centre of the plate.\n\nThe bed was levelled before printing (and checked afterwards also). Even though the photo may appear to show a slant or lower corner (where the print is coming off), there is not. The bed is level, relative to the extruder, at room temperature.\n\nThe temperature of the bed is about 70 °C. I get inconsistent readings (with laser thermometer) but to the finger it feels about the same everywhere.\n\nIt's a glass bed, presumably with some coating. Is it degraded? Local temperature variation? Any ideas anyone?\n\",Tomas By,\"I cleaned the bed with acetone and it seems to have helped, so presumably it was just a build-up of something.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n10550,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tomas By,1.726248027126092,3.3206222047196907,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,\"Build plate adhesion, PLA\",\"Am just wondering if any conclusions can be drawn from this:\n\n\n\nThree corners are solid, but not the one in the centre of the plate.\n\nThe bed was levelled before printing (and checked afterwards also). Even though the photo may appear to show a slant or lower corner (where the print is coming off), there is not. The bed is level, relative to the extruder, at room temperature.\n\nThe temperature of the bed is about 70 °C. I get inconsistent readings (with laser thermometer) but to the finger it feels about the same everywhere.\n\nIt's a glass bed, presumably with some coating. Is it degraded? Local temperature variation? Any ideas anyone?\n\",CrossRoads,\"From here: https://io3dprint.com/review-anycubic-i3-mega-ultrabase/\n\n\n Ultrabase Bed\n The Anycubic i3 Mega Ultrabase is the latest version in the Anycubic i3 family. As hinted in the name, the main upgrade from the previous version is the Ultrabase bed. This is a textured coating on the Borosilicate glass bed that means you don’t need to apply any glue or tape to the bed to make your prints stick to it.\n \n Ultrabase is similar to the popular BuildTak beds except unlike BuildTak it doesn’t wear off and the most significant benefit is that parts are exceptionally easy to remove once the bed has cooled.\n \n The Ultrabase surface has a Moh’s hardness of over 7. This means you can safely use metal scrapers and blades to clean it without risk of it scratching!\n\n\nPerhaps it was just not cleaned sufficiently from a prior print.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10565,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tomas By,1.0891412423578797,3.2877657568844505,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Using maximum width when slicing in Ultimaker Cura,\"I am trying to slice a model that is half a mm less than max width, but not successful.\n\n\n\nWhat am I missing? Is there some minimum value less than maximum allowed, or something?\n\nEdit: after changing the width to 220 in machine settings, slicing works. This is a dangerous thing to do, as it could damage the printer.\n\",0scar,\"This answer already addresses that Ultimaker Cura \"\"eats up\"\" platform space for e.g. skirt, brim, raft, dual extruder, deposition of priming blob, prime towers, etc. Disabling those features will reclaim platform space so you can print larger prints. However, that will only work when your printer is correctly configured! E.g. the center of the bed needs to be the center of the center in the slicer which needs to have the specific sizes of the bed dimensions. Note that increasing the bed size past the actual dimensions is not considered to be a nice solution, it is an easy work-around that gives you extra space in X+ and Y+, i.e. it does not center this newly created space, furthermore, this can destroy your printer is there is tight space left on those axes! Let's illustrate that with an example, if you have a 200x200 mm build plate and want to slice something of size 200x200 mm, this should be centered around (100, 100), if you change the bed size to 220x220 mm, Ultimaker Cura will center the print around (110, 110) which means that the print maximum coordinates are 210 mm; this is outside the bed area and potentially can destroy your printer!\n\nWhat you should check is if the physical center of your bed actually is the center as defined by the firmware of the printer (surprisingly, many of the cheaper printer have this incorrectly configured). The answers on question \"\"How to center my prints on the build platform?\"\" (Re-calibrate homing offset) describe how you could do that.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10565,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tomas By,1.0891412423578797,3.2877657568844505,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Using maximum width when slicing in Ultimaker Cura,\"I am trying to slice a model that is half a mm less than max width, but not successful.\n\n\n\nWhat am I missing? Is there some minimum value less than maximum allowed, or something?\n\nEdit: after changing the width to 220 in machine settings, slicing works. This is a dangerous thing to do, as it could damage the printer.\n\",Rosalie W,\"Take a look at this post: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/15588-cura-23-not-using-full-print-area/. As the raft/skirt/brim will fall outside of the build volume, Cura is not able to slice it. Look at the the answer by @ahouben. He suggests that if you want to use the maximum build volume : \n\n\n \n adhesion type = brim\n brim line count = 0\n travel avoid distance = 0\n horizontal expansion = 0\n support horizontal expansion = 0 (if support is enabled)\n draft shield disabled\n ooze shield disabled\n infill wipe distance = 0\n \n \n Note that in most cases brim with brim line count=0 will get you most of the way there\n\n\nTry this and see if it makes a difference.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6016,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dan Crankshaw,2.8153892694839717,4.959741675050504,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Delta printer nozzle not moving square with a perfectly level bed (as if the bed is bent... but it isn't),\"I've been having this problem with my delta 3D printer where my nozzle isn't moving flat with my print bed (as if the bed is bent) but I have used the edge of my steel ruler and it seems to be perfectly flat. I have properly leveled my bed with a piece of paper and have checked the whole printer to make sure it's square but the problem continues.\n\nWhat else could be the problem?\n\nAddition info (from comments)\n\nThe gap grows and shrinks in a parabolic manner and it makes it impossible to get a good first layer. the printer is a FLsun Delta Kossel. The links don't appear to be loose. Is there a way I could share a video?\n\nUpon further inspection I found a bit of play in one of the links, I tightened the bolt and the play is gone but it didn't fix the problem.\n\nI have been playing around a bit and I found that the nozzle is closer to the bed in the center than it is near the edge.\n\nI did some research and it's a calibration issue but I have no idea how to fix it. Does anyone know a quick and easy way to calibrate a Kossel Delta 3D printer?\n\",tjb1,\"Delta radius controls how the print head moves from the outside to the center. From the comment you posted, it sounds like your radius is too large which is causing it to hit in the center and you need to make it smaller to bring the center up. This is not always a number you can directly change as it is sometimes calculated using other offsets so you will need to find that in your firmware. Also after doing this you're likely going to need to adjust endstops for each tower again or the Z travel to fix your 0 point. \n\nI would recommend following the steps listed here for your calibration.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6016,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dan Crankshaw,2.8153892694839717,4.959741675050504,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Delta printer nozzle not moving square with a perfectly level bed (as if the bed is bent... but it isn't),\"I've been having this problem with my delta 3D printer where my nozzle isn't moving flat with my print bed (as if the bed is bent) but I have used the edge of my steel ruler and it seems to be perfectly flat. I have properly leveled my bed with a piece of paper and have checked the whole printer to make sure it's square but the problem continues.\n\nWhat else could be the problem?\n\nAddition info (from comments)\n\nThe gap grows and shrinks in a parabolic manner and it makes it impossible to get a good first layer. the printer is a FLsun Delta Kossel. The links don't appear to be loose. Is there a way I could share a video?\n\nUpon further inspection I found a bit of play in one of the links, I tightened the bolt and the play is gone but it didn't fix the problem.\n\nI have been playing around a bit and I found that the nozzle is closer to the bed in the center than it is near the edge.\n\nI did some research and it's a calibration issue but I have no idea how to fix it. Does anyone know a quick and easy way to calibrate a Kossel Delta 3D printer?\n\",Greenonline,\"\n Calibration, the part everyone fears. It is actually not that hard. \n\n\nCalibration on any printer is difficult, but especially so on deltas, as there construction is more complex than a cartesian printer.\n\nPrint beds are rarely flat (maybe in 1% of cases they are flat), and are usually either convex or concave.\n\nHave you manually calibrated the printer (at both the center and the edges), such that you can just about get a sheet of paper between the print bed and the hotend nozzle, at z = 0? This last check ensures that the first printed layer of extruded filament is actually touching and \"\"presses on\"\" to the print bed. \n\nI seriously recommend that you watch this video #18:Calibration for a great explanation on the use of the paper. This video is for a Delta printer, a Kossel XL (although the Kossel Mini is also covered) and it clearly demonstrates the height that the zeroed print head should be at, and how to check using a sheet paper.\n\nIt is an hour long tutorial video, by Tom of BuildA3DPrinter.eu, and it shows you step-by-step how to calibrate the printer, and also how to deal with deformed beds (concave/convex). It uses:\n\n\nArduino IDE, and;\nPronterface\n\nand performs the calibration by adjusting, in the firmware:\nMANUAL_HOME_Z_POS, and;\nDELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET\n\n\n\n\nHere is a run down of the video's contents:\n\n\n0:00 Intro: The perfect first layer can be obtained, either with/without a probe (the printer is, arguably, better without probe) This tutorial is without the probe. \n0:55 Arduino software loaded with Marlin firmware source, looking at the file configuration.h and in particular, the line #define MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS\n2:30 - Ensure that the Pronterface USB port is disconnected as otherwise this will inhibit the Arduino IDE from connecting to the printer.\n3:20 - Initial test - Gap at the center of the bed \n\n\nConnect with Pronterface and use the following G-code commands\nG28 Home the printer head\nG1 Z10 Bring the head down...\nG1 Z5 a bit more...\nG1 Z4 a bit more...\nG1 Z3 a bit more...\nG1 Z2 a bit more...\nG1 Z1 and if the head hits bed then this is too close\nG1 Z2 raise the head again\nPaper thickness is 100 microns, place under the head\nG1 Z1.5 lower the head again, but no by so much as before\nSlide the paper between head and bed. The paper should move freely, but with some friction felt (you should be able to hear the head lightly rubbing against the paper)\n\n7:11 - Deduction of actual distance from print bed is 1.5 mm\n7:30 Return to firmware, and finely tune MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS in the Arduino IDE, disconnecting Pronterface again and upload.\n8:10 - Return to printer \n\n\nConnect with Pronterface, again, and use the following G-code commands\nG28 Home\nG1 Z5 F5000 Move head down rapidly\nG1 Z2\nG1 Z1\nG1 Z0 and the head comes to a rest at the correct distance from the bed\nRetest with the paper\n\n9:30 Final test\n\n\nG28 Home\nG1 Z0 Go from home straight down to the bottom\n\n10:02 - Further calibration\n\n\nG1 Z0.2 Raise head ever so slightly to give us some room\nIn Pronterface - Move the head horizontally\nG1 X50 - Moves head 50 mm to the right\nIn this case, if there is a larger gap between the head and the bed. This means that the bed is curved, and convex. If the gap was smaller, or the head hits the bed, then the bed is concave\n\n11:40 - Diagram of convex and concave print beds\n12:10 - Endstops\n\n\nG1 X-40 Moves the head to the left (of center) and the head is now further away from the bed than in the middle. \n\n13:20 - This means that the endstops are not correctly positioned. So, before tackling the concave/convex issue, it is first necessary to adjust the endstops, for each tower.\n13:37 - Tackling the tower positions individually\n\n\nG1 Z10 For safety reasons, leave a margin of 1 cm.\n\n14:08 - Calibrating the X tower (left tower). Note: The commands will depend on whether you have the Kossel or the Mini.\n\n\nPrinter moves in three axes: \n\n\nX: parallel (to the front);\nY: perpendicular (to the front);\nZ: height (not of interest at this point).\n\nX tower is not in either of these axes exactly\nG1 X-100 Moves the head to the side but 6 cm away from the X tower\nG1 X-100 Y-60 Positions the head next to the tower correctly\nG1 Z5 - Lower the head bit by bit\nG1 Z2\nG1 Z1\nG1 Z0 and the head is still 1 mm too high\n\n16:50 Endstop needs to be adjusted by 1 mm lower. There are two ways of doing this:\n\n\nLower the endstop itself - good for large changes\nAdjust the screw - good for smaller adjustments. Turn it anti-clockwise, and raise the screw by 1 mm.\n-G28 Home\nG1 Z10 Bring head down 1 cm above bed\nMove to the tower:\n\n\nXL: G1 X-100 Y-60\nMini G1 X-60 Y-35\n\nG1 Z2\nG1 Z1\nG1 Z0 Head hits the bed\nG1 Z0.2\nSo the end stop needs to be raised by 0.2 mm, by re-adjusting the screw (turning it clockwise).\nNow home it the head, G28\nAnd bring it down G1 X-100 Y-60 Z0 and it should not hit the glass and the paper should slide underneath\n\n21:00 Minor re-adjustment and fine tuning so that the paper slides without the need a too much force.\n21:50 Repeat for each tower\n22:15 Y Tower (right tower)\n-G28 Home\n\n\nG1 Z10 Bring head down 1 cm above bed\nMove to the tower:\n\n\nXL: G1 X100 Y-60\nMini G1 X60 Y-35 \n\nRepeat the above process - remember to test with G28 and G1 X100 Y-60 Z1 for safety, and then adjust the Z command\nThis is an iterative process\n\n28:04 - Z Tower (rear tower)\n-G28 Home\n\n\nG1 Z10 Bring head down 1 cm above bed\nMove to the tower:\n\n\nXL: G1 X0 Y120\nMini G1 X0 Y70 \n\nRepeat above process\n\n30:14 Re-check! each position (center, X, Y and Z towers)\n\n\nG28 Home\nG1 X0 Y120 Z0 Check Z tower & drop head (head should not touch the bed)\nG1 Z10 Raise head (see below)\nG1 X-100 Y-60 Move to X tower\nG1 Z0 Drop head (head should not touch the bed)\nG1 Z10 Raise head (see below)\nG1 X100 Y-60 Move to Y tower\nG1 Z0 Drop head (head should not touch the bed)\nCalibration of the endstops is now complete\n\n31:30 Why the Z10?\n\n\nG1 Z10\nG1 X0 Y0\nThe first calibration was the center point, but now the endstops have changed and as the bed is either convex or concave, we therefore raised the head by 1 cm, using the Z10, to avoid hitting the bed in the center. Now test it\nG1 Z2 Lower head slightly\nG1 Z1\nG1 Z0 If the bed is concave then the head is still too high! Conversely, if the bed is convex the the head will hit the bed.\n\n32:40 Adjusting the DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET in configuration.h - alter the physical parameter of the printer:\n\n\nConvex: Increasing DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET lowers the hotend in the center\nConcave: Decreasing DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET raises the hotend in the center\nAdjust the setting in the Arduino IDE and recompile and upload (ensure that Pronterface is disconnected)\n\n35:07 Testing the new DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET setting - again in Pronterface:\n\n\nG28 - As the firmware has changed, we must re-home.\nG1 X0 Y0 Z0\nYou will notice the the center point has not changed! It is the same. However if you go to the tower positions you will see that the (previously) perfect gap has changed. This is because by changing the DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET the center stays in the same place but the edges change instead. So, for the convex bed, we have virtually bent the surface, without moving the center point down, and moved the rim up (or, for a concave bed, down - depending upon the direction of the adjustment), thereby flattening the bed.\n\n37:10 Demonstration of adjustment\n37:51 Adjusting the height\n\n\nReturn to the firmware and change, again, the #define MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS line that we changed at the beginning, adjusting it by the amount that the head is from the center point. \nDisconnect Pronterface and upload the new adjusted firmware. \nThen reconnect Pronterface, and Home (G28) and drop to zero (G1 Z0). \nThe head may still a little too high. \nThen move to the tower, and the head may be too close to the bed, without any gap. This means that the bed is still convex and further adjustment is required of the DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET and then, obviously, the MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS. \nAgain, this is a bit of an iterative process. Don't forget to home after any firmware updates.\nFinally once the bed is flat (i.e. it has been virtually flattened in the software) and the gap between the head and the bed is the same at the center and the towers, then adjust MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS (an adjustment of 0.05 or less may be required) to get the paper test just perfect.\n\n44:35 Check each tower (screw adjustment, of the endstops, may be required). As the bed has been flattened, mechanical sub 0.1 mm adjustments may be required. Note that the firmware does not need to be re-uploaded, when making mechanical changes - although the head will always need to be re-homed (G28) after each change.\nThe head should now be at the correct height.\n47:14 - Extruder Calibration\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6018,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mark Micallef,2.528907649931287,3.55394482088147,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.551027839747059,Cura printer settings for Alladinbox SkyCube 3D,\"I've just purchased an Alladinbox SkyCube 3D that I want to use to print board game miniatures and other fun stuff.\n\nHowever, the instructions do not give the settings I need to put into software like Ultimaker Cura, and this is where I need some help so that I can generate the G-code files from models I download from MyMiniFactory.\n\nI know it uses PLA and the extrusion temperature should be 210°C. However, I need help with the other settings.\n\nCan someone please point me in the right direction? Is there a better software I could be using? Where can I find settings?\n\nThanks.\n\nUPDATE: For those wondering \"\"what\"\" settings, I would probably start with the printer and extruder specifications. The following is my best guess.\n\n\n\nand\n\n\n\nI'm basing these settings on the device specs on this page:\nLink to Alladinbox specs\n\",0scar,\"Ultimaker Cura comes with pre-defined profiles for various materials. PLA filament is present in between them. This could be a good starting point to derive your specific profile for your own material. To do we usually print test objects and look at the quality of the product. Test prints can consist of simple X-Y-Z test cubes, temperature towers, retraction test prints, a \"\"Benchy\"\" or many more.\n\nGenerally 210 degC is pretty high for PLA, but may sometimes be necessary when printing high speeds. Just copying the material profiles from someone else may not work for you as it might involve different printer brands and even within the filament brands variations in between rolls of a single line may require additional tweaking.\n\n\n\nEdit:\nThe original question appeared to hint at material settings, but the OP changed the question, hinting on printer settings with accompanying screenshots how to setup the printer in Cura. However, the OP's answer (that the OP accepted) also includes material and other slicing settings (infill, layer height, speed). To help other people I undeleted my answer which discusses using the standard Cura profiles to work on to make your own derivatives.\n\",0.0,0.0\n6018,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mark Micallef,2.528907649931287,3.55394482088147,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.551027839747059,Cura printer settings for Alladinbox SkyCube 3D,\"I've just purchased an Alladinbox SkyCube 3D that I want to use to print board game miniatures and other fun stuff.\n\nHowever, the instructions do not give the settings I need to put into software like Ultimaker Cura, and this is where I need some help so that I can generate the G-code files from models I download from MyMiniFactory.\n\nI know it uses PLA and the extrusion temperature should be 210°C. However, I need help with the other settings.\n\nCan someone please point me in the right direction? Is there a better software I could be using? Where can I find settings?\n\nThanks.\n\nUPDATE: For those wondering \"\"what\"\" settings, I would probably start with the printer and extruder specifications. The following is my best guess.\n\n\n\nand\n\n\n\nI'm basing these settings on the device specs on this page:\nLink to Alladinbox specs\n\",Mark Micallef,\"Okay, after some research and experimentation, I've come up with some settings that seem to work.\n\nFirstly, some specs about the Alladinbox SkyCube 3D:\n\n\nFirmware: Marlin\nNozzle diameter: 0.4 mm\nNozzle speed: 20 to 70 mm/s\nLayer thickness: 0.1 to 0.4 mm\nPrinting area: 110 x 110 x 125 mm (WLH)\n\n\nNote: There is NO cooling fan present and the base is NOT heated.\n\nNow for the actual printing settings... \n\nI'm using the PLA supplied with the printer so far, and it works well at a nozzle temperature of 210C. \n\nI'm printing at 0.2 mm per layer, which seems to afford to a good level of detail. I've printed a scanned Greco-Roman basin, and the details are very nice indeed.\n\nSo far I'm using a 20% line filling, and this seems to give the structure a good solidity and strength. I'm also operating the nozzle at its maximum speed of 70 mm/s and it seems to work just fine.\n\nObviously, I'm still experiments, and different materials may require different settings, but overall I'm very happy. I hope this post helps someone.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n6021,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,O. Vale,3.267423727073639,4.23791593699017,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Extruding a (wall?) in Fusion 360?,\"I have a model that has walls with a volume of 0.00mm that I want to extrude so I can 3D Print it. \n\nI was unable to convert it into a normal body in order to extrude it. \n\nIn addition I was unable to figure out what kind of body type this is, here a picture.\n\nAnd here a Picture of the Model.\n\nHow can I extrude these walls? \n\",Dustin Wheeler,\"I think the command you're looking for is \"\"Thicken\"\". Recent versions of Fusion360 have moved this around, but now it should appear under the Create Panel when you're in the the Model mode (see the image below for details). A detailed description and short screencast on the Autodesk website here. \n\n\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n6022,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,User2341,2.528907649931287,3.264951048124368,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,3D printing template material,\"I want to print a structure that I can embed in a resin and later dissolve. I know that some fancy 3D printing systems have raft materials etc., that can be printed and later removed easily. \n\nCan any one suggest a 3D printing material that can be dissolved in say water or another readily available solvent?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Wash-away filament used for support in PLA printing is typically PVA, which is completely water soluble and may serve your purpose. It is easily 3D printed as the primary filament and attaches well to the build plate.\n\nMany 3D printer filament suppliers will carry this type of support material. It is important to keep it in a sealed bag with desiccant as it will absorb moisture from the air, rendering it useless for printing.\n\nOne such resource is MatterHackers which prices a half-kilogram at US$45. The link provides suitably appropriate information:\n\n\n PVA (Polyvinyl Alcohol) is a water-soluble material that is often used\n as a support material, but can also be used to print independently.\n PVA supports are useful for complex designs where removing support\n material manually is difficult or impossible, but leaving the part in\n a water bath overnight will completely dissolve this material.\n\n\n\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n6022,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,User2341,2.528907649931287,3.264951048124368,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,3D printing template material,\"I want to print a structure that I can embed in a resin and later dissolve. I know that some fancy 3D printing systems have raft materials etc., that can be printed and later removed easily. \n\nCan any one suggest a 3D printing material that can be dissolved in say water or another readily available solvent?\n\",Greenonline,\"ABS dissolves in acetone. Indeed actone can be used to clean up 3D prints, see What's smoother? Acetone treated PLA or ABS. PLA maybe not somuch as ABS, see the same post.\n\nPLA dissolves in any chlorinated or fluorinated solvent, such as THF or Chloroform - both of which are significantly more hazardous than acetone.\n\nHence, as always take care when using solvents, see Safety precautions when using acetone\n\nAlso, as filaments are often not pure ABS or PLA, due to additives and dyes, etc., then the solvent may not dissolve the 3D printed part completely, and you may be left with a deformed, rubbery residue.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6039,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,User2341,2.8153892694839717,3.5577363978034486,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,3D Printing of a Swellable Material,\"I recently saw this video of super-swellable polymer and felt inspired. Printing a swellable structure would be sort of interesting. However, sodium polyacrylate isn't a printable material. Does anyone know of a material that is? Preferably, swelling activated by water. \n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"The video treats about sodium polucarbonate ‎(C3H3NaO2) this is a superabsorbent polymer has the ability to absorb as much as 100 to 1000 times its mass in water. This is used as desiccant on products that moisture can be a problem basically during storage prior selling. The video shows the water how is trapped inside the particles of sodium polycarbonate, this happens inside a diaper or any product urine odor absorbing, also is used on waste liquid control. \n\nAlso you can find something similar on some products that has a little bag that says silica gel (SiO2).\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6039,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,User2341,2.8153892694839717,3.5577363978034486,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,3D Printing of a Swellable Material,\"I recently saw this video of super-swellable polymer and felt inspired. Printing a swellable structure would be sort of interesting. However, sodium polyacrylate isn't a printable material. Does anyone know of a material that is? Preferably, swelling activated by water. \n\",Greenonline,\"There appear to be at least two papers which revolve around the use of hydroxypropyl cellulose (HPC) filaments.\n\n\n\nThis proposal/article, from Journal of Drug Delivery Science and Technology 30 July 2015 seems to, at least, partially fit your criteria, 3D Printing by Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) of a Swellable/Erodible Capsular Device for Oral Pulsatile Release of Drugs by Melocchi et al.:\n\n\n The aim of the present work was to explore the feasibility of fused deposition modeling (FDM) 3D printing in the manufacturing of capsular devices for oral pulsatile release based on a swellable/erodible polymer (hydroxypropyl cellulose, HPC). This involved an experimental evaluation of the possibility of fabricating hollow structures via FDM and the production of HPC filaments by hot melt extrusion (HME), which are not commercially available. Moreover, the set-up of appropriate computer aided design files had to be faced. A twin-screw extruder equipped with a rod-shaped die and a purposely designed pulling/calibrating device as well as a MakerBot Replicator 2 3D printer were employed for HME and FDM processing, respectively. Bodies and caps with satisfactory physico-technological properties were obtained. The release test of assembled capsular devices pointed out a lag phase before rapid and quantitative liberation of the drug. The morphological changes undergone by the device when in contact with water and their release performance turned out comparable with those of analogous systems fabricated by injection molding. The possibility of manufacturing capsular devices for oral pulsatile release by FDM 3D printing starting from HPC filaments purposely prepared was thus demonstrated, and the real-time prototyping potential of FDM was assessed. \n \n 3D Printing by Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) of a Swellable/Erodible Capsular Device for Oral Pulsatile Release of Drugs | Request PDF. Available from: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/282800986_3D_Printing_by_Fused_Deposition_Modeling_FDM_of_a_SwellableErodible_Capsular_Device_for_Oral_Pulsatile_Release_of_Drugs [accessed Jul 30 2018].\n\n\nAlso, from Manufacturing and characterization of £D printing filament by tailoring materials by V. Mirón, S. Ferrándiz*, D. Juárez, A. Mengual\n\n\n There are also references to the pharmaceutical field’s manufactured materials as it reflects Melocchi 4 in his\n paper about filaments based on insoluble (ethylcellulose, Eudragit RL), promptly soluble (polyethylene oxide,\n Kollicoat1 IR), enteric soluble (Eudragit1 L, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose acetate succinate) and\n swellable/erodible (hydrophilic cellulose derivatives, polyvinyl alcohol, Soluplus1) polymers were successfully\n produced\n\n\nThere is also this, which refers to the Melocchi paper above, Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) 3D Printed Tablets for Intragastric Floating Delivery of Domperidone:\n\n\n Domperidone (DOM)... DOM was successfully loaded into hydroxypropyl cellulose (HPC) filaments using hot melt extrusion (HME).\n \n ...\n \n Several novel gastroretentive delivery systems have been explored to overcome the shortcomings above, including polymer bioadhesive systems, swelling and expanding systems, high-density systems and floating systems3\n\n\nAn image of the filament is shown in figure 1:\n\n\n \n\n\n\n\nHowever, as a commercially available filament, you might be out of luck, or at least hard pushed to find one.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6026,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CGaiven,2.8153892694839717,4.712989953038434,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,Problem with 3D printer not accepting new print gcodes,\"Ok so I am trying to print a new fusion 360 file that I converted into an STL and then into gcode using cura and I got the gcode loaded onto the SD card and mounted into my Monoprice 3D printer, Maker Select 3D Printer v2, and tried to do a print. Now here is the strange part. When I choose \"\"print file\"\" and then select a gcode to print it takes me back to the main screen and from there the 3D printers screen displays \"\"Printing...0%\"\" for a few seconds. After this it just goes back to displaying \"\"Stepper Disabled.\"\" And if it is not stepper disabled it is just a blank screen. I tried to mount and print multiple gcodes just to make sure that it was not the softwares fault and low and behold I was running into the same issue. \n\nNow before using today all of the gcode was printing just fine, however for some reason today it decided to give me this issue. \n\",Petar Petrov,\"As you found out, sometimes the SD cards need reformating. \n\nAnd if they came with the printer they could be fake (Fake capacity), when you try to upload more than its real capacity they will just corrupt.\n\nMy Anet A8 came with an 8GB SD card and it turned out to be 128 mb. With RMPrepUSB you can do a capacity test and format it to the real capacity.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n6026,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CGaiven,2.8153892694839717,4.712989953038434,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,Problem with 3D printer not accepting new print gcodes,\"Ok so I am trying to print a new fusion 360 file that I converted into an STL and then into gcode using cura and I got the gcode loaded onto the SD card and mounted into my Monoprice 3D printer, Maker Select 3D Printer v2, and tried to do a print. Now here is the strange part. When I choose \"\"print file\"\" and then select a gcode to print it takes me back to the main screen and from there the 3D printers screen displays \"\"Printing...0%\"\" for a few seconds. After this it just goes back to displaying \"\"Stepper Disabled.\"\" And if it is not stepper disabled it is just a blank screen. I tried to mount and print multiple gcodes just to make sure that it was not the softwares fault and low and behold I was running into the same issue. \n\nNow before using today all of the gcode was printing just fine, however for some reason today it decided to give me this issue. \n\",CGaiven,\"Determined Solution \n\nOk so after an hour or so of searching and trying to figure this out, I found that the best to deal with this is by reformating the SD Card once the problem starts. \n\nNow I had to make sure that I made a backup of all the files so that I could recover them once the process was complete. \n\nAlso please note that the problem may have been with one of the files on the SD Card so backing up the SD Card and then restoring the files from your place of storage for the SD card may or may not work.\n\nAlso, this problem and solution were done on a Monoprice 3D Printer V2 so I am not sure how this would work with any other 3D printer.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n6027,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,joegnarly,2.8153892694839717,3.9498466629958724,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.548335113978322,3.9829738809469584,How can I generate and export the support structure for an object as a mesh?,\"I want to render a visual of an mesh I created with a real support structure that a 3d printer would print. I haven't had any luck in finding a way to do this. Is there a program (ideally free) that can generate the proper support structure and export it into a mesh format, like .stl or .obj ?\n\",Petar Petrov,\"You could try Meshmixer its free and the supports generated with it are embedded into the 3D model.\n\nHere you can find a reference on Meshmixer supports. Meshmixer is well known for making custom supports for complex 3D models.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n6134,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,joegnarly,2.1782824847157594,2.5072605669755292,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"On a LENS printer, does the head move, or is it table that moves when printing?\",\"I'm wanting to know how a LENS printer moves to create 3D prints.\n\",Greenonline,\"Whilst this is not a definitive answer, if you watch the video on their website, LENS 450 Systems, it is the bed that moves in the X and Y axes - the head remains static. The bed also appears to move in the Z axis, after each layer (as there is noticeable bed wobble). \n\nHowever, the head is on an armature so it could be that which moves - it is not entirely clear.\n\nLENS 450 System for 3D Printed Metals\n\nNote that the MR-7 system appears to be similar to the 450, with its \"\"3 Axis CNC Control System\"\". However, the 850-R differs, inasmuch that it has: \n\n\n5 Axis CNC Control System\nXYZ gantry + tilt-rotate table\n\n\nwhich are not mentioned in the specifications of the 450 and MR-7, so the 850-R could well differ from the video.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6030,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,saikek,3.452496054252184,5.752447538487044,2.7799718631987322,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Connecting (Anet A8) 2004 display to MKS GEN L,\"Was anyone able to connect the default Anet A8 (2004) display to a MKS GEN L? \n\nI've tried direct connection with re-wiring, and see white squares there, but I'm only able to see white squares on the screen as on screenshot:\n\n\n\nWiring:\n\n\n\nThe code that is currently used for the display :\n\n\nConfig.h uses #define ZONESTAR_LCD. \nAlso #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_MKS_GEN_L\nConfig_adv.h uses #define LCD_PROGRESS_BAR\nPins were left as they were in config file.\n\n\nAlso I've tried replacing them with this numbering (which comes from MKS spec):\n\n35 16 25 29 5V\n37 17 23 27 GND\n\n\",0scar,\"I've got the Anet A8 display working on a RAMPS 1.6 (which basically works exactly the same as a RAMPS 1.4 board). Note that at first connection I got exactly the same display when I connected the LCD to the EXP1 and EXP 2 headers using the \"\"smart adapter\"\".\n\nTo get the Anet A8 display working on a MKS GEN L (which is basically a RAMPS board as the pin layout of the RAMPS configuration are used in the firmware of the MKS GEN L) you need to forget about the EXP1 and EXP2 headers and the \"\"smart adapter\"\" for the Anet A8 display. Instead you need to connect the Anet A8 display to the AUX2 header. The only thing you would have to do (from the hardware side) is to switch the cables that are connected to the pin 1 and pin 2. I used Dupont connectors and cables. Pin 1 on AUX2 is VCC and pin 2 on AUX2 is GND, this is reversed on the Anet A8 display.\n\nFrom the software side you need to set the following constants:\n\n#define ULTRA_LCD // Character based\n\n\nand\n\n#define ZONESTAR_LCD\n\n\n\n\nPlease note that in the photo you still see the \"\"smart adapter\"\" with flat ribbon cables, but they are not connected to a screen, the reason for them being there is I also tested the full graphic discount controller in a previous session. The Anet A8 display is connected to the flat ribbon cable on AUX2 just above the top-left most stepper driver.\n\n\n\nUPDATE:\nAt the time of writing and the use of an older Marlin version, this required to set #define ULTRA_LCD. In Marlin 1.1.9 you do not need to set #define ULTRA_LCD explicitly, this is now intrinsically set by #define ZONESTAR_LCD. To elaborate on this, the #define ZONESTAR_LCD sets the constant #define ULTIPANEL which sets constant #define ULTRA_LCD in Conditionals_LCD.h.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n6035,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ron,2.8153892694839717,3.9583220392252736,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.6229190288168605,I want to use my 2 extruders simultaneously,\"I am using 2 extruders. Is it possible to use them both at the same time.\nNow I can use one at a time but not both at the same time.\nIs there a gcode that supports this action?\n\",0scar,\"To print with 2 extruders simultaneously you need a firmware that supports that. Luckily, there is a firmware called Sailfish that is able to do that. The feature you are looking for is called Ditto printing.\n\nSailfish firmware is found here\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6035,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ron,2.8153892694839717,3.9583220392252736,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.6229190288168605,I want to use my 2 extruders simultaneously,\"I am using 2 extruders. Is it possible to use them both at the same time.\nNow I can use one at a time but not both at the same time.\nIs there a gcode that supports this action?\n\",theGarz,\"If you want a ditto printing is not mandatory to have a specific firmware (or g-code), you only need to add extruder to your end effector and - because of electrical power requirements - add further stepper driver for further stepper motor. \nPlease note that the maximum footprint of your printed object is less than the extruders distance, for obvious physical reasons, therefore is not that common to see, the typical dual extruder goal is to use different filament/color.\nOf course, you have to achieve a notable calibration skill, and of course you have to modify the electronics of your printer (but this can be done quite easily, you only have to share the enable/step/dir signals with all the stepper driver).\nThis has been already done with the MPCNC project.\n\nOtherwise, if you want something more flexible, there are commercial printers with independent extruder. This one, for example\n\nEdit: i can't comment your answer yet, but can you describe your current 3d printer setup? Because if you have the two hot ends that are only few mm apart it makes little sense to ditto-print something.\n\",0.0,0.0\n6050,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dat,2.528907649931287,4.383596698108321,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.878685800062712,Extruder clogs randomly during print,\"I don't know how to say this but during the print, the printer will randomly have difficulty extruding the filament. I will have to give the filament a boost for it to keep going. Once I done the boost, the extruder keeps going perfectly fine for a while.\n\nI am using a Prusa I3 clone bought second hand. I am using the settings that the previous owner gave me (I personally know him). He previously printed a lot of stuff with those settings and they seem to work well. I also bought the brand of same filament as he did for my first roll.\n\nMy question is:\n\nHas anyone had this problem or anything similar and if they did, how did they resolve it?\n\nIf anymore precision or clarification is needed, please ask.\n\nEDIT\n\nWhen I say boost I mean that I have to push it down a bit more for it to countinue extruding.\n\nI am using 3D branche filament (it's a local store in Montreal).\n\nI do sometime hear it click before the print. When it does that. I stop the print and restart it.\n\",Petar Petrov,\"Check your retraction settings. I had a similar issue and it was caused by the retraction, It retracted just about enough so the gears couldnt hit the hole properly to feed the filament into the nozzle. To fix that I lowered the value of mm on the retraction settings.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6050,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dat,2.528907649931287,4.383596698108321,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.878685800062712,Extruder clogs randomly during print,\"I don't know how to say this but during the print, the printer will randomly have difficulty extruding the filament. I will have to give the filament a boost for it to keep going. Once I done the boost, the extruder keeps going perfectly fine for a while.\n\nI am using a Prusa I3 clone bought second hand. I am using the settings that the previous owner gave me (I personally know him). He previously printed a lot of stuff with those settings and they seem to work well. I also bought the brand of same filament as he did for my first roll.\n\nMy question is:\n\nHas anyone had this problem or anything similar and if they did, how did they resolve it?\n\nIf anymore precision or clarification is needed, please ask.\n\nEDIT\n\nWhen I say boost I mean that I have to push it down a bit more for it to countinue extruding.\n\nI am using 3D branche filament (it's a local store in Montreal).\n\nI do sometime hear it click before the print. When it does that. I stop the print and restart it.\n\",OyaMist,\"If the model you're printing is your own design, then sometimes the 3D model is itself the problem. If the printer spends a lot of time retracting (pulling back) on the filament to print things like walls with lots of gaps then the filament softens at the feed gear and nothing feeds. Slicing software should handle that use case but may not. I've had this exact problem with the Lulzbot Mini using Cura when trying to print a hydroponics netpot. I had to rethink my design after the extruder clogged.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6058,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,A6EE,2.1782824847157594,2.541486592782186,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,German RepRep Neo can't heat the extruder,\"The printer stopped heating the extruder in the middle of the print and I noticed it getting cooled down. After a few seconds, I heard a ticking noise near the filament (which could probably mean the filament was being pushed into a cold extruder and was skipping. Now, when I try to heat the extruder, it won't heat up. What could've gone broken?\n\",profesor79,\"first, check the breakers \n\npic source\n\nsecondary stuff\n\nplease see a list of item to check, that could point you to the source:\n\n\nheater cable cut/melted/loose => the best way will be to check the resistance (it shall be around 3.3 Ohms) from the heater cable terminals on the mainboard, if that fails it could be a wire on heater itself.\nwith the heating switch on - measure the voltage on terminals - shall be 12V, if not - that could suggest a mainboard failure or mosfet failure (in case of mosfet you could measure if there is an input signal given on the middle pin)\nthere also could be a breaker that was engaged due to short circuit on the wires (the main board layout is not known to me and it is not clear form manual I found online)\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n6060,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Michael Chourdakis,1.726248027126092,5.96022639603132,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Anet A6 install bed leveling sensor,\"After lots of hassle, I finally made the printer work.\n\nI also got myself one bed leveling sensor from eBay, LJ18A3-8-Z/BX 3D Printer Inductive Sensor Bed Auto Level +Plug For Anet A8 A2 A6. \n\nI'm not sure how to setup it. Should I print some holders for it first? Where are they?\n\nShould I somehow update the firmware?\n\",Greenonline,\"You need to do two or three things:\n\n\nPrint a holder or bracket for the probe, if your probe did not come with one, and looking at the eBay item listing, it doesn't appear to include a bracket. There are a number of designs out there, take a look at thingiverse, for example:\n\n\nInstalling the BLtouch on Anet A6 - This one includes a PDF guide.\nAnet A6 Autolevel Sensor Support 18mm\n\nChange the firmware - SkyNet 3D, Marlin is a good choice, or Anet's own \nYou may need to change the Z-stops\n\n\nThere is a step by step guide here, Autolevel for the A8 Anet 3D Printer. It is for the A8 but most, if not all, of the steps will apply to the A6\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n6067,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CatsAndCode,2.8153892694839717,4.980860199826173,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.9376260060201658,What is causing the walls of my prints to separate?,\"I have been having an issue with certain portions of the walls of certain prints becoming separated from the rest of the model. It happens with smooth vertical edges. \n\nSpecifically, this model, ID Badge Holder, on the edges where the lanyard would be attached. And on several places on this model, Cat Necklace. \n\nHere is the resulting issue: \n\n\n\nI am quite new to 3D printing, so I'm sure this is an easy fix, I just don't know about it yet. \n\nI am printing with a Monoprice Select Mini V2, using Hatchbox PLA, and the default slicing settings inside Cura. I don't have problems with any of the D&D figures I've printed, or some of the other thicker square pieces I've printed. I know I've got kind of a bargain printer; if it's just a quality issue I have to learn to live with, no problem. But if an expert knows of some slicer settings to tweak for these kinds of prints with flat vertical walls, I'd love to give it a try.\n\",LWS-Mo,\"I dont know if I understand you correctly, but let me try... \n\nIt could be that the wall-thickness of the part you try to print is to thin or is not \"\"compatible\"\" with your nozzle size.\nLets say your nozzle and output size is 0.4mm. You now try to print a wall with a thickness of 1mm. So the printer will print 2 wall-perimeters (left and right) with a 0.4mm thickness. Between these walls there is now a 0.2mm gap. The slicer cannot fill this gap as its to small for the nozzle, so it is left empty.\n\nI run into this problem multiple times already with different models using Cura.\n\nBut, atleast in older versions of Cura, if you go to the layer-view you can kind of preview/see the problem.\n(Iam still using an older Version.)\n\nThis problem can also effect the overall print quality of the part.\n(For example I had a part with very big stringing problems but only on the inside of a specific wall. The wall wasnt even thin, it was a couple of mm, but the overall thickness of the wall was not a multiple of my nozzle-size so it created problems.)\n\nSome say you should design a model with a nozzle size already in mind, however this is not really practical, as everybody uses different settings/printers and not everybody creates his own models.\n\nHere are some more infos regarding this issue: (and more \"\"walls-not-touching\"\" issues)\nhttps://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#wallspace\n\nSo maybe try varying your nozzle size and wall thicknesses and see if this changes something in the cura preview already.\n\nThis problem can also happen if you have some very tight corners, which are to small for the nozzle.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6067,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CatsAndCode,2.8153892694839717,4.980860199826173,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.9376260060201658,What is causing the walls of my prints to separate?,\"I have been having an issue with certain portions of the walls of certain prints becoming separated from the rest of the model. It happens with smooth vertical edges. \n\nSpecifically, this model, ID Badge Holder, on the edges where the lanyard would be attached. And on several places on this model, Cat Necklace. \n\nHere is the resulting issue: \n\n\n\nI am quite new to 3D printing, so I'm sure this is an easy fix, I just don't know about it yet. \n\nI am printing with a Monoprice Select Mini V2, using Hatchbox PLA, and the default slicing settings inside Cura. I don't have problems with any of the D&D figures I've printed, or some of the other thicker square pieces I've printed. I know I've got kind of a bargain printer; if it's just a quality issue I have to learn to live with, no problem. But if an expert knows of some slicer settings to tweak for these kinds of prints with flat vertical walls, I'd love to give it a try.\n\",0scar,\"I have faced the same issue if it concerns just gaps between the walls (to the point you could put a nail in between the outer and inner perimeters, so clearly the perimeters were not bonding), for me this was fixed with proper tension of the belts of my Prusa i3 clone, and for my other (CoreXY) printer reducing the friction of the X-Y system. Both help position the head better for proper wall adhesion.\n\nNow that you have posted a picture of your product I do not think the above is applicable to you. Your print looks as if it has an under-extrusion problem as the lines on the faces are clearly not touching, you see the diagonals of the layers beneath. This under-extrusion also may contribute to the vertical wall bonding problems you mention. To fight under-extrusion you need to check a few things:\n\n\nBe sure the slicer has the actual filament diameter as mentioned on the box, or measured at various points (if it varies, take the mean value).\nCheck your extruder setup to see whether you have play or friction preventing filament to extrude freely.\nAlso check whether your extruder gear is not loose, re-tighten the grub screw.\nFinal step is calibration. You want to be certain that when you demand 100 mm of filament to extrude, you actually extrude 100 mm. Put a mark on the filament and extrude 100 mm using a tool like Pronterface or Repetier-host. If this is off you should readjust the steps per mm in the firmware (if you are able to do so), or increase the extrusion multiplier or flow in your slicer.\n\n\nPlease look here or here for more information.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6072,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Eyeballs,2.8153892694839717,3.235319671822568,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Extruder clogs with HIPS,\"I've got a Prusa i3 MK3. I have printed with PLA, PETG and tried HIPS. Haven't had any clogs with PLA and PETG, but with HIPS I've got a weird problem.\n\nMy first three test prints in HIPS went fine, but then I got a very bad clog (required total disassembly of the extruder) twice. And every time, it was at the same moment during a print. The object I was printing was a hollow cylinder. The walls were about 5 mm thick, getting thinner near the top edge. At the moment the walls started getting thinner, the problems started.\n\nI've read that HIPS can clog if the filament moves too slow through the hotend. At the moment the clog occurred, the printer was printing a very narrow part, and the extruder had to move around a lot. Is it possible that, at that moment, the filament moves too slow and the problems starts? I have also printed two copies of the object in a single run, and then the problem didn't occur.\n\nI hope my explanation makes sense, but here's what it comes down to: Does HIPS clog easily when the filament moves too slow, and if it does, what can I do to solve this?\n\",cmm,\"This has been sitting for a long time without an answer, so let me answer with an experience I've had with PETG rather than HIPS. \n\nPETG seems to be a relatively soft plastic. It isn't soft like TPU, but it is softer than PLA or ABS. The HIPS filament (which I have but haven't used) appears to also be softer, so it is possible that my PETG problem could relate to your HIPS problem.\n\nI was printing and re-printing an object with PETG that had worked fine with PLA. Three times in a row, I got a filament jam in about the same place. \n\nThe problem was that the filament was retracting, returning, retracting, and returning many times within a very small amount of extruded plastic. My extruder was set for high pressure between the drive roller and the idler. When the filament went back and forth through the extruder, it flattened enough that it would jam from being too wide to fit through the next stage (in my case, a Bowden tube).\n\nWhen I reduced the compression of the filament in the extruder, the problem stopped. I also reduced the retraction distance, and increased the minimum travel before the slicer would do a retract. Both were intended to reduce the number of times any single bit of filament would pass through the rollers.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6072,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Eyeballs,2.8153892694839717,3.235319671822568,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Extruder clogs with HIPS,\"I've got a Prusa i3 MK3. I have printed with PLA, PETG and tried HIPS. Haven't had any clogs with PLA and PETG, but with HIPS I've got a weird problem.\n\nMy first three test prints in HIPS went fine, but then I got a very bad clog (required total disassembly of the extruder) twice. And every time, it was at the same moment during a print. The object I was printing was a hollow cylinder. The walls were about 5 mm thick, getting thinner near the top edge. At the moment the walls started getting thinner, the problems started.\n\nI've read that HIPS can clog if the filament moves too slow through the hotend. At the moment the clog occurred, the printer was printing a very narrow part, and the extruder had to move around a lot. Is it possible that, at that moment, the filament moves too slow and the problems starts? I have also printed two copies of the object in a single run, and then the problem didn't occur.\n\nI hope my explanation makes sense, but here's what it comes down to: Does HIPS clog easily when the filament moves too slow, and if it does, what can I do to solve this?\n\",Davo,\"HIPS does better with a wider nozzle; try a 1mm nozzle.\n\",0.0,0.0\n6080,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,uiop,2.8153892694839717,3.264951048124368,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Strange grooves with ABS,\"I am experiencing strange grooves in my ABS prints; with PLA everything is fine. Some layers seem to randomly overextruded and others underextruded.\n\nMy parameters:\n\n\nTemp: 240°C\nRetraction Distance: 5 mm\nRetraction Speed: 70 mm/s\nPrint Speed: 35 mm/s\nCombing mode: All\nMax Comb Distance with no Retract: 5 mm\n\n\nIt shouldn't be a problem with the Z-axis or the temperature control. It also only appears on large objects.\n\n\n\n\",Valmond,\"Retraction distance, print speed (I don't know about Combing mode or Comb Distance but I doubt that's the problem) have IMO nothing to do with this.\n\nNeither would hotend temperature.\n\n\n It shouldn't be a problem with the Z-axis or the temperature control. It also only appears on large objects.\n\n\nYou have a very fine X/Y layer so albeit your affirmation, I must raise the idea that it might actually be exactly the temperature control of the heat bed (if you have one) and it definitely seems to be the z axis. How would this problem appear otherwise?\n\nYou say it affects only large objects, and also that it doesn't affect PLA, does it affect large PLA objects? Photos would be helpful :-) !\n\nMy hypothesis is that you have a heat-bed and that the heatbed is changing the z-height.\n\nIt does so when it changes temperature (because material contracts/expands according to temperature), and heatbeds change temperature all the time.\n\nUsually you have the same temperature control method all the time, so small or big objects doesn't change the method, but what they change is the time they stay on the same level; small objects less, big objects much so the z-bulging will be seen if you spend 2 minutes on one layer, while it might be mitigated on a layer taking 20 seconds.\n\nWhat's your heat bed temperature control software / how is it configured?\n\nFYI I use Marlin and I get these problems when I don't (correctly) auto-tune the heat-bed pid or use bang-bang beat-bed heating.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6088,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Moses,2.528907649931287,5.30816855673353,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Z-Axis zero/home position is higher than the actual print starting position,\"I'm having an issue with my very first printer, a Monoprice Select Mini V2. After doing about 20 successful prints on it, the Z axis is suddenly acting very odd.\n\nWhen I 'home' the Z axis and move the nozzle on the X and Y, I can do the paper test on all four corners of the bed without issue - the leveling is near-perfect. But when I start a print job, the nozzle is much lower - by at least 1-2 mm. \n\nThis causes the print head to grind against the print bed, which I unfortunately need to replace as it's pretty much destroyed. The nozzle is so much lower at the start of a print job than it is at the home position that it ground a permanent line on the bed. It's trying to go so low, there's enough pressure on the nozzle to not let any filament escape - leaving a bad gouge like I dragged a screwdriver across the print surface. Not good.\n\nIt's not the Z-axis limiter switch. I confirmed that is both working and secured tightly to the printer body. When homing the Z axis, I can hear the switch click and the printer stops at that position correctly. It's only when I start a print job that it ends up lower, almost as if it's ignoring the switch.\n\nI also eliminated my slicer software from the equation by printing something I had printed successfully just a couple hours prior - without reslicing or modifying the GCODE file at all. I'm at the point now where I can't print anything that I could before, without having this problem. My heat and speed settings remained untouched.\n\nHow can I solve this? The issue popped up just after doing a successful print. What gives? I've heard of the opposite problem (Z-Axis 'too high'), especially after changing nozzles, but not 'too low', and I've never seen it where the print job actually starts lower than the true zero position. Help!\n\",OyaMist,\"Check the Z-drive for any component looseness. Look at belts, gears, anything with screws. Wiggle things mercilessly checking for play. \n\nAt the start of a normal print run, the the print head typically rises up very high as the head warms up (depends on software) and then lowers to print. If your homing paper test happened with the head near the limit switch, then the difference between those two use cases is the Z-distance traveled to get to the same place. You have eliminated software and electrical considerations, which leaves mechanical considerations. A slipping gear or belt might contribute to this odd behavior you describe.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6088,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Moses,2.528907649931287,5.30816855673353,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Z-Axis zero/home position is higher than the actual print starting position,\"I'm having an issue with my very first printer, a Monoprice Select Mini V2. After doing about 20 successful prints on it, the Z axis is suddenly acting very odd.\n\nWhen I 'home' the Z axis and move the nozzle on the X and Y, I can do the paper test on all four corners of the bed without issue - the leveling is near-perfect. But when I start a print job, the nozzle is much lower - by at least 1-2 mm. \n\nThis causes the print head to grind against the print bed, which I unfortunately need to replace as it's pretty much destroyed. The nozzle is so much lower at the start of a print job than it is at the home position that it ground a permanent line on the bed. It's trying to go so low, there's enough pressure on the nozzle to not let any filament escape - leaving a bad gouge like I dragged a screwdriver across the print surface. Not good.\n\nIt's not the Z-axis limiter switch. I confirmed that is both working and secured tightly to the printer body. When homing the Z axis, I can hear the switch click and the printer stops at that position correctly. It's only when I start a print job that it ends up lower, almost as if it's ignoring the switch.\n\nI also eliminated my slicer software from the equation by printing something I had printed successfully just a couple hours prior - without reslicing or modifying the GCODE file at all. I'm at the point now where I can't print anything that I could before, without having this problem. My heat and speed settings remained untouched.\n\nHow can I solve this? The issue popped up just after doing a successful print. What gives? I've heard of the opposite problem (Z-Axis 'too high'), especially after changing nozzles, but not 'too low', and I've never seen it where the print job actually starts lower than the true zero position. Help!\n\",Moses,\"This ended up being a combination of print bed height and an unknown slicer profile parameter (probably the first layer height setting).\n\nI completely uninstalled Cura, wiped out my profiles and downloading the ones from Monoprice, installed an older version of Cura and loaded them in. I also issued an M502 and M500 command to reset the EEPROM/firmware.\n\nThat seemed to have a tiny bit of improvement, but my first layer was still maybe 0.5 mm low (it was no longer grinding against the bed but was still creating a 'canal' with the plastic). I then did a tiny adjustment on each bed screw to lower it on the Z axis, just barely turning the screws, as evenly as I could.\n\nAn initial print after doing that seems to be going well. I may have to do one more teeny tiny adjustment to the bed height again. So it was probably a combination of slicer settings and bed height, the latter I probably made worse when initially trying to solve the problem. Lesson learned...kinda. I still need a new print bed!\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6119,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Moses,4.356564969431519,6.539274607475595,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,4.83456264223006,4.592941926651472,Can you put PLA parts in your car (in the sun)?,\"I'm in the process of building my own head unit / stereo prototype for a car, which will have a 3D-printed enclosure.\n\nMy concern is that cars can get quite hot in the sun, and even more so if you live in hot climates. Some estimations put the interior of cars getting up to 50-60 °C, sometimes even in only 20 °C weather due to the 'greenhouse' effect created in the car. I live in a fairly temperate climate, but the summers can still get up to 20-29 °C (80-85 °F), and my car might get up to 60 °C/150 °F on a hot day.\n\nThe part won't be exposed directly to the sun, but will obviously be exposed to heat both from the interior of the car when in the sun, and potentially from the engine radiating heat through the firewall, though the latter factor will differ from car to car.\n\nShould I be concerned using PLA for my part? If not, what material, if any, would be better suited for these possible temperatures (other than metal)?\n\",0scar,\"No, PLA cannot be used in cars standing in the sun. Temperatures can locally get over 50 °C (122 °F).\n\nI have printed sun visor hinge pins from PLA for a car (not exposed to direct sunlight either), but after one day in the sun (it usually doesn't get over 29 °C or about 85 ˚F here too) the pin deformed (only printed it for form fitting). The actual pin was eventually printed in PETG, and even with PETG the part deformed a little when it got really hot in the car. \n\nYour part might not get that hot as it is lower in the car, but you could best print parts in Nylon (Polyamide, PA), ABS or any other high temperature resistant Co-Polymer (e.g. made from Amphora HT5300), there are lots to choose from nowadays.\n\nIf it is a non load bearing component that is not stressed (e.g. a cover or a bushing) it could be printed in PLA, but I would not take a change and would print it directly in a more temperature resistant material.\n\n\n\nDownloading some of the technical data sheets from various filaments will give you for PLA:\n\n\n Not suitable for long term outdoor usage or applications where the\n printed part is exposed to temperatures higher than 50 °C (122 °F).\n\n\nsimilar for Nylon:\n\n\n Not suitable for applications where the printed part is exposed to\n temperatures higher than 80 °C (176 °F).\n\n\nTo complete the overview, generally, materials should not be exposed prolonged periods of time above (give or take):\n\n\n70 °C (158 °F) for basic Co-Polymers\n85 °C (185 °F) for ABS\n100 °C (212 °F) for enhanced Co-Polymers\n105 °C (221 °F) for Polypropylene (PP)\n110 °C (230 °F) for Polycarbonate (PC)\n\n\",4.143478317956379,2.0769199823829045\n6119,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Moses,4.356564969431519,6.539274607475595,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,4.83456264223006,4.592941926651472,Can you put PLA parts in your car (in the sun)?,\"I'm in the process of building my own head unit / stereo prototype for a car, which will have a 3D-printed enclosure.\n\nMy concern is that cars can get quite hot in the sun, and even more so if you live in hot climates. Some estimations put the interior of cars getting up to 50-60 °C, sometimes even in only 20 °C weather due to the 'greenhouse' effect created in the car. I live in a fairly temperate climate, but the summers can still get up to 20-29 °C (80-85 °F), and my car might get up to 60 °C/150 °F on a hot day.\n\nThe part won't be exposed directly to the sun, but will obviously be exposed to heat both from the interior of the car when in the sun, and potentially from the engine radiating heat through the firewall, though the latter factor will differ from car to car.\n\nShould I be concerned using PLA for my part? If not, what material, if any, would be better suited for these possible temperatures (other than metal)?\n\",OyaMist,\"If you put PLA parts in a sealed plastic bag (or two to keep it dry) and simmer in water (212 °F or 100 °C), the part \"\"anneals\"\". The time taken varies with the part shape, but for small parts should be about 15-30 minutes. You can simmer longer if unsure, but it provides no additional benefit once the part is annealed. When you remove and cool the annealed part, it will feel harder and more compact. You may also notice a slight hazing or color change.\n\nAnnealed parts become a bit more resistant to heat warp. The annealing process shrinks and hardens your part (I've annealed gears) so you need to account for the shrinkage by making the unannealed part slightly larger. I do this for stepper mounts or gears as needed. Putting your part in the passenger compartment of a car can work depending on your climate. My daughter-in-law has a camera mount on her dashboard showing significant warp, but she still uses it.\n\nHere's more information and I'm sure you can find more...\n\",3.367452517504837,0.0\n6090,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Russell Rowe,2.528907649931287,4.207875721687259,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,3D printer filament will not load after running the printer out of filament,\"We wanted to test the post process properties of PVA but did not want to print anything. We unloaded the ABS that was in the printer and then started loading some PVA. After the PVA was loaded we let it keep going through the loading process until it pushed all the PVA out and we had our test sample. We then stopped the loading process and started the loading process again to put the ABS back so we could continue with normal printing procedures. Now, the ABS will not load into the right side and started making a clicking/ticking noise. Our printer is a Flashforge Dreamer. What is wrong with my printer and how can I fix it?\n\",0scar,\"PVA is nasty filament to print (from experience). I use it in the Ultimaker 3 in a separate designed core (BB) and even with that core the filament frequently cooks up and carbonizes clogging the nozzle resulting in grinding of the filament at the feeder (it also attracts water really easy, so keep it in the bag with desiccant bags).\n\nTo clean the inside of the nozzle, a few techniques exist to remove blockage. E.g. by performing a cold pull or using the atomic method. Both techniques rely on the mechanism to insert the (cleaning) filament when it's hot and remove it quickly at a lower temperature. E.g. see here or here. \n\nThe trick is that you pull out all the goo inside the nozzle, you do that by raising the temperature and sticking some (cleaning or high temperature) filament (your ABS will do fine) to the goo. When the temperature lowers, you quickly pull and hope that some of the goo sticks to you cleaning filament. Cut of the tip and repeat until no goo or burnt particles come out and you can push the cleaning filament through the nozzle. You do not need the automatic feeding, it's all manual labor, just raise temperature through the menu and press the lever of the extruder to load the cleaning filament, lower temp and pull back after cooling a bit while pressing the extruder lever.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n6090,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Russell Rowe,2.528907649931287,4.207875721687259,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,3D printer filament will not load after running the printer out of filament,\"We wanted to test the post process properties of PVA but did not want to print anything. We unloaded the ABS that was in the printer and then started loading some PVA. After the PVA was loaded we let it keep going through the loading process until it pushed all the PVA out and we had our test sample. We then stopped the loading process and started the loading process again to put the ABS back so we could continue with normal printing procedures. Now, the ABS will not load into the right side and started making a clicking/ticking noise. Our printer is a Flashforge Dreamer. What is wrong with my printer and how can I fix it?\n\",buurin,\"Run some cleaning filament through the extruder at the printing temperature of your PVA or ABS filament, whichever is greater, until the old stuff has been completely displaced. Then load the new filament until the cleaning filament has been completely displaced.\n\nThis should be done every time you are switching materials, unless you don't mind disassembling the extruder and/or hotend and clean it out manually.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6096,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mason Wheeler,3.0576060275493275,3.4199815613998,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,What can cause the build plate to slip?,\"2 days into a 5-day build, I came home from work and found the build ruined because the build plate had slipped.\n\nI'm using a Raise 3D N2 Plus printer, with the standard glass build plate that comes with it, attached via 4 clips: two stationary ones at the back, and two standard binder clips at the front, which shipped with the printer, which hold the glass build plate plate to the heated surface beneath.\n\nThe left-side clip had come off of the heated surface, remaining clipped to the top and bottom of the glass plate, and the whole thing slipped an inch or so. I immediately canceled the build, and I can start another one, but before I do I'd like to know how this happened and what I can do to prevent it from happening again.\n\nWhat typically causes the plate clips to come free? Is there anything I can do about it? Will adding more clips around the edges help? I'd really prefer not to ruin more builds if I can help it...\n\",0scar,\"Your nozzle may have caught up with the print somehow pushing the binder clip off by moving the glass slate. \n\nApparently this is a more common problem. Try adding more binder clips, this has been reported to help preventing shifting.\n\nMaybe with some ingenuity you could develop your own fastening system depending on the bed. Alternatively, you could make the underside of the glass a little sticky so that it does not move easily (a little PVA based glue maybe or hairspray, I've done that with my mouse mat with 3DLAC :) which is now not slipping from the desk).\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n6096,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mason Wheeler,3.0576060275493275,3.4199815613998,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,What can cause the build plate to slip?,\"2 days into a 5-day build, I came home from work and found the build ruined because the build plate had slipped.\n\nI'm using a Raise 3D N2 Plus printer, with the standard glass build plate that comes with it, attached via 4 clips: two stationary ones at the back, and two standard binder clips at the front, which shipped with the printer, which hold the glass build plate plate to the heated surface beneath.\n\nThe left-side clip had come off of the heated surface, remaining clipped to the top and bottom of the glass plate, and the whole thing slipped an inch or so. I immediately canceled the build, and I can start another one, but before I do I'd like to know how this happened and what I can do to prevent it from happening again.\n\nWhat typically causes the plate clips to come free? Is there anything I can do about it? Will adding more clips around the edges help? I'd really prefer not to ruin more builds if I can help it...\n\",ngfelixl,\"Before two month ago I tested double-sided tape between bed and glass plate. It's awesome and really works perfectly. No more clips, so I'm able to print to the complete area. And no more slipping. Don't use that much tape, just a little bit at the edges should be totally fine.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6165,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mason Wheeler,3.0576060275493275,3.3206222047196907,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,0.9784382375735183,How to calculate the strength of a printed object?,\"If I'm working with standard PLA, and I want to print a box that I can stand on without any risk of it breaking, is there any good way to calculate the appropriate print settings?\n\nI know that structural strength comes from the infill. Knowing this, and knowing the dimensions of the box, the weight of my body, the surface area of my shoes, and the material I'm working with, is there any good way to determine the minimum infill percentage I'd want to use in order to safely bear my weight?\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"I would suggest doing some calibration runs - granted this'll use up a lot of time and filament. But an infill of even 30 to 40%, plus a reasonably thick set of walls and top/bottom layers, should have almost the same strength as a 100% infill. Look at the girders & beams on road bridges, for example. As Oscar wrote, modelling with FEA tools is unreliable, more so because every extrusion printer is a little different.\nTry printing a test box, say only 10 by 10 cm, same height, and see if you can stand on that, before printing the full-size item. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6165,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mason Wheeler,3.0576060275493275,3.3206222047196907,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,0.9784382375735183,How to calculate the strength of a printed object?,\"If I'm working with standard PLA, and I want to print a box that I can stand on without any risk of it breaking, is there any good way to calculate the appropriate print settings?\n\nI know that structural strength comes from the infill. Knowing this, and knowing the dimensions of the box, the weight of my body, the surface area of my shoes, and the material I'm working with, is there any good way to determine the minimum infill percentage I'd want to use in order to safely bear my weight?\n\",Axel Fernandes,\"A fast way to do this is by using SolidWorks. \n\nYou can draw the box in it and run a simulation test with the max load expected. \n\nHere is a link on how to make dynamic load simulations work in SolidWorks, How to apply dynamic load in solidworks simulation ?\n\nThe catch in the process is that SolidWorks takes cubes and most objects as complete solids, i.e. 100% infill in 3D printer terms. \n\nYou would have to actually design your infill pattern into the cube so as to get the best and most accurate result. \n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6244,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mason Wheeler,2.528907649931287,3.298894097750058,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,What is wrong with this angle?,\"I'm trying to print a model that looks like this:\n\n\n\nat a size of approximately 10\"\"x7\"\"x7\"\". I've tried 3 times now, with various different infill and shell settings, and had it fail all 3 times in the same way at the same point: right at the point where the central column begins to angle back (which is a bit higher than where the two side columns angle back--those angles print just fine) the whole thing ends up detached somehow and I end up with messes like this:\n\n\n\n\nHow can I figure out what's going wrong with this print? I've already wasted a non-trivial amount of time and filament on this, and it's starting to drive me up the wall. Somehow, I've got the wrong settings to make this geometry print, but I can't seem to find any settings that actually work.\n\nUsing the Raise3D N2 Plus dual-extruder printer.\n\nEDIT: WRT questions raised in the comments:\n\nThe extruder isn't clogging. It's continuing to print; it's just that at the point where the central column angles back, the whole thing separates and I end up with a distinct layer that prints straight up and down rather than angling inward.\n\nI'm using PLA at 215°C and 3 wall layers.\n\nThis problem seems to be specific to this model; I've been able to print other large things before without problems.\n\nNever heard of MeshMixer, but the reviews on the download page make it appear to be a very buggy and wouldn't work at all, at least in the current version, and it requires a registration to download even though it's nominally free, so I think I'll pass on this one.\n\",OyaMist,\"Hex infill patterns are normally chosen for strength, as the honeycomb resists force in many directions. However, hex infill patterns are slow to print and the older, simpler fill patterns print faster and provide sufficient support for solid architectural models.\n\nModels with shallow roof angles of less than 45 degrees are challenging to print and often result in \"\"air prints\"\" where unsupported filament cascades into a sorry tangle of sadness. Shallow roofs are challenging because each horizontal filament overlaps very little with the preceding adjacent filament. This is where infill proves critical, since the infill supports these filament bridges as they cross each infill line segment.\n\nSlicing software has only recently introduced the hex fill pattern because the code to print a hex infill is VERY complicated. You can see this in the picture as all those fine lines of retracted filament scattered throughout the hex infill. Earlier, simpler fills such as diagonal lines provide simpler longer paths for the slicer to implement. Bridging works best at speed over many supporting points. Excessive retraction causes the extruder to \"\"stutter\"\", and makes bridging difficult.\n\nIt may therefore help to choose a simpler fill pattern for printing this model and reserve hex infill for simpler models requiring utmost strength.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n8219,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mason Wheeler,2.1782824847157594,2.917283834062601,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Is there any better way to make this transparent dome?,\"As part of a larger project, i'm trying to print a translucent green dome. I set it up as follows:\n\n\nIn Blender, create an icosphere of the maximum allowed complexity. Cut it in half and throw away one of the hemispheres.\nDuplicate the hemisphere. Move the second one down slightly and use Subtract, to hollow it out. Clean up the vertex garbage left behind.\nExport the model. Import it in the slicer, scale to the proper size, and export as gcode.\nPrint the model with translucent green filament at 100% solid infill.\n\n\nI ended up with a beautifully rounded dome that doesn't feel at all like a polyhedron, so that worked out fine. The only problem is, it's solid green. The filament seems to lose its translucency past a certain thickness, and the fact that my \"\"solid\"\" print is actually made up of thousands of tiny strings pressed up against each other probably doesn't help.\n\nI tried reprinting it in Spiral Vase mode, and while the print turned out to be transparent, it was also extremely thin and fragile, and it failed anyway because of lack of support once the dome's angle got bad enough.\n\nI've been trying to think of how to print this properly, but nothing I think of will work:\n\n\nScaling can make the walls thinner, but only by reducing the size of the model. Its basic dimensions need to remain unchanged.\nDoing the same trick again that I used to create the dome, subtracting a copy of itself moved down slightly, would lead to non-uniform thickness in the model. (Which I already have some of. But when the thickness is directly correlated to the degree of transparency, this is problematic.)\n\n\nDoes anyone know of any tricks I can use to get it to come out properly? For reference, I'm using Blender as my 3D software, IdeaMaker as my slicer, and printing on a Raise3D N2 Plus printer.\n\",Trish,\"For the modeling, I suggest to change to a proper CAD software, design a half sidecut and create the model by rotating it around Z. That way you'd create an evenly thick part.\n\nAs for loosing transparency, that has several reasons:\n\n\nlight loss into printed materials is mainly due to air being captured in the model. To get the air out as much as possible and generate an almost entirely transparent print, I have printed some lens-tests with extra heat and deliberately overextruding to fill all the cavities and voids.\nlight loss in materials is also dependant on the material factor and thickness.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8219,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mason Wheeler,2.1782824847157594,2.917283834062601,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Is there any better way to make this transparent dome?,\"As part of a larger project, i'm trying to print a translucent green dome. I set it up as follows:\n\n\nIn Blender, create an icosphere of the maximum allowed complexity. Cut it in half and throw away one of the hemispheres.\nDuplicate the hemisphere. Move the second one down slightly and use Subtract, to hollow it out. Clean up the vertex garbage left behind.\nExport the model. Import it in the slicer, scale to the proper size, and export as gcode.\nPrint the model with translucent green filament at 100% solid infill.\n\n\nI ended up with a beautifully rounded dome that doesn't feel at all like a polyhedron, so that worked out fine. The only problem is, it's solid green. The filament seems to lose its translucency past a certain thickness, and the fact that my \"\"solid\"\" print is actually made up of thousands of tiny strings pressed up against each other probably doesn't help.\n\nI tried reprinting it in Spiral Vase mode, and while the print turned out to be transparent, it was also extremely thin and fragile, and it failed anyway because of lack of support once the dome's angle got bad enough.\n\nI've been trying to think of how to print this properly, but nothing I think of will work:\n\n\nScaling can make the walls thinner, but only by reducing the size of the model. Its basic dimensions need to remain unchanged.\nDoing the same trick again that I used to create the dome, subtracting a copy of itself moved down slightly, would lead to non-uniform thickness in the model. (Which I already have some of. But when the thickness is directly correlated to the degree of transparency, this is problematic.)\n\n\nDoes anyone know of any tricks I can use to get it to come out properly? For reference, I'm using Blender as my 3D software, IdeaMaker as my slicer, and printing on a Raise3D N2 Plus printer.\n\",kolosy,\"\n The filament seems to lose its translucency past a certain thickness\n\n\nThat's exactly the point. Think of translucency as a percentage of light being allowed through, per amount of material. 2x the material means 1/2 the light. You need either less material (which becomes brittle as you saw), or a more translucent material. I think it has little to do with the model itself.\n\nAlso - check out OnShape. One of the features it has is a \"\"shell\"\" function, that does what you're describing - takes a single 3D feature and creates a shell out of it of consistent thickness.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6100,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tin Man,2.1782824847157594,3.4291679796504773,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Subdivision surface for STL files,\"How much should I subdivide a surface in preparation for 3D printing?\n\nFor computer graphics, I know that I need to balance the smoothness and the rendering time, but for printing, I'd like it to be completely smooth. Are there any reasons why I shouldn't subdivide a lot (e.g. 7x) in preparation for 3D printing?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Subdividing an existing mesh further won't do anything because you're not adding additional detail, just representing the same thing with more triangles. Subdividing as \"\"preparation\"\" doesn't make much sense. You should make sure the mesh is created with sufficient detail while modelling.\n\nA mesh created for 3d printing should generally have a lot more triangles than one created for use in rendering, but within reason. It doesn't make sense to make the mesh (much) more detailed than the printer can print, and similarly having lots of triangles can make the slicer slow or unreliable. As a very rough guideline, I would say that 10.000-100.000 triangles per model is reasonable (but this obviously depends on the size and level of detail).\n\nSome slicers may output G-code that will have segments corresponding to each and every triangle in the model, even if these segments are very tiny. This may cause the printer to slow down a lot while printing, but most slicers take care of this by merging small segments into larger ones. Depending on your slicer, you might have to watch out for not having the triangles be so tiny that the number of segments created becomes a problem.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n6111,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,stib,3.0576060275493275,4.460550073818482,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.749318730431847,4.208576161768494,Would a really short melt-zone be beneficial,\"IANAE (I am not an engineer), but I've been wondering: wouldn't it make more sense to limit the length of the melt-zone and hot-end as much as possible? I've been having a lot of problems with nylon causing jams inside the heat-block, this being the region where the filament is no longer rigid, but becomes squishy then liquid as it is heated. \n\nIn my extruder (E3d v6) there is a cold section, then a heat-break then about 20mm of hot-end.\n\n\n\nIf the heating of the filament took place at the last possible moment, say the last couple of mm before the orifice, wouldn't this not only alleviate jamming problems caused by soft filament deforming, but also allow for much more precision with extrusion - less hysteresis due to the reduced volume of semi-liquid material.\n\n\n\nI'd imagine that this would work by having a heated nozzle tip, say a nichrome ring around the nozzle orifice, and as the filament hits the inside of the bottom of the nozzle it melts and is forced out the hole.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"There is a trade-off between the length of the melt zone and the speed at which you can print. The filament itself is somewhat of an insulator, so as the outside of the filament is heated up by being in contact with the melt zone, the inside stays cold. Therefore, the filament needs a certain amount of time inside the melt zone for the inside to fully melt. If you have a shorter melt zone, you need to print more slowly to give the filament enough time to melt. This is precisely the reason why the E3D volcano exists. It has a longer melt zone, so you can print more quickly.\n\nYou can partially compensate for a shorter melt zone by heating the nozzle up more, but there is an upper limit to how hot you can go (you don't want the outside of the filament to burn before the inside is melted).\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n6158,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,stib,3.267423727073639,3.7649394530103804,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,What is the best way to dry filament?,\"I have some nylon that appears to have soaked up some moisture, the prints have the texture of rice bubbles. So I'm wondering what people suggest for drying.\n\nMy priorities are:\n\n\ncheap\nlow energy use\nsafe\neffective\n\n\nI know you can put it in the oven for four hours, but that's going to chew up a lot of electricity. \n\nI have been leaving the spool in front of a fan heater, since the heater is on anyway, it probably only gets to 40°-50°, but since my kids spend all day sitting in front of the heater I can leave it there for an extended amount of time. Anyone have success with this method?\n\nI had considered putting it in my car. I know even on cool days it gets pretty warm in there, but I'm not sure whether that would translate to low humidity.\n\",profesor79,\"If we think about drying as a process, then we need to consider some factors:\n\n\nwe need to get same humidity level on the spool\nthat will require a good stable temperature and an air rotation (fan)\nthen we need to store spool in a dry area (a bag and silicone sachets will do the work)\n\n\nAs energy consumption by owen could be the case, if we will run it for 4h full steam, then considering that we shall have about 60 degC, will turn down the usage by at least 70%, so we could assume that 2kW heater will be on only 30% of the time (so it will be 2kw*0.3 = 0.6kW, multiply by 4h -> we have 2.4kWh, so that is about 50 cents).\n\nIf you consider the price of wasted filament - then adding 50 cents to the drying process is something that is cheap enough to save precious nylon.\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n6116,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ErosRising,2.528907649931287,3.8966643527406504,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Dual extruder unused nozzle is breaking prints,\"So I got my first 3d printer, with 2 nozzles. I thought why not, I may want to print 2 colours, dissolvable supports etc in future. But for now, only using one.\n\nI've had good success on small items so far, but when I try to print something that's a big on the bigger side, my \"\"spare\"\" nozzle seems to crash into the side of the print - either snapping a bit off if it's delicate, or losing bed adhesion.\n\nWhat could be the possible cause of this? I've levelled and re-levelled the bed, but I am losing the heart to keep trying. I have more half-printed broken bits now that successful parts...\n\nNot sure of the relevance, but I'm printing in PLA\n\",cmm,\"I started this as a comment, but it got too long. I have been working for much too long on a multi-extruder printer, and so I understand that the fixed, dual-head designs are somewhat fraught with problems.\n\nI am assuming that this is a mechanism in which the two nozzles are inline in the X-axis, the Y-axis is parallel to the bed and normal to the line between the two nozzles, and the Z-axis is normal to both X and Y (and usually vertical).\n\nWhen you \"\"bed level\"\", is it clear that both nozzles are \"\"exactly\"\" the same height from the bed everywhere on the bed? If there is anything non-parallel about the movement plane and the bed, it can cause one head to dip lower than the other when over the same position on the bed.\n\nIs twist along the Y-axis of the heads possible? A twist could be because of either looseness or compliance (springiness) in the X-axis. The twist could be induced either through acceleration or by a nozzle being pushed up in reaction to the plastic extrusion against the object. \n\nIs the printing from the active nozzle properly flat, or does it produce verticle bumps? Any vertical ripples will cause any head passing over them to bump against them. Something will need to comply with the force. Either the head will melt through the bump and smear it out a bit, the bed will be pushed downward, or the nozzle pushed upward. If the passive nozzle hits a bump, that compliance will be conveyed to the active nozzle, creating another defect.\n\nIs the passive nozzle cold or hot? It may help to heat the unused nozzle so that it can melt the plastic it touches rather than pushing against it. If this helps at all, it may be necessary to slow down printing so that the passive nozzle has more time to melt through the obstacle.\n\nIf you find that the problem is bump defects from the active nozzle, it might help to remove the passive nozzle completely and focus on printing a smooth, even surface with the active nozzle. Debugging that would be easier without the passive nozzle compounding the problem.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n6124,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trevor Evans,2.8153892694839717,4.741067420607155,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Flashforge Dreamer not able to read Cura created G-code file,\"I'm using a second hand Flashforge Dreamer with ABS filament and Cura as slicer.\n\nThe Flashforge Dreamer cannot read the printing (G-code) file Cura creates, I think due to not knowing what the printer firmware is? I want to use some of the Cura features that the FlashPrint software does not have. \n\nWhat firmware does Flashforge Dreamer use? I think I have to input to cura the machine details (name not listed on list of printers in the drop down menu) and even Google could not tell me, nor the Flashforge website.\n\nCura has a built-in list of printer specs, but no Flashforge, so even the name of a clone type of the Flashforge using the same type of firmware would help.\n\",0scar,\"For the Flashforge Creator model an alternative firmware is available; Sailfish. However, Sailfish is not available for the Flashforge Dreamer. As a matter of fact, no alternative firmware is available for the Dreamer as a consequence of the Flashforge Dreamer being closed hardware and closed source. \n\nNot knowing the flavor af firmware (as it is closed source and could well be using a custom firmware build) using Cura to slice models for G-code files gives no guarantee for successful printing.\n\nTo be able to use Cura you would have to switch the current board from the Flashforge Dreamer and replace it with a board that accepts Marlin Firmware. Note that there is no default configuration for this pronter available so this requires a little work from you to go through the Marlin configuration file and adjust various constants to make your printer work. [edit: As pointed out below in the comments, in the process you will lose some of the maximum speed the Dreamer is capable of!]\n\nAnother option is to buy a license of e.g. Simplify3D (note that I have no affiliation with Simplfy3D!) as they claim to support this printer. There could be other software suites that support your printer.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n6128,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mahdi Shakeri,2.1782824847157594,4.484391482074324,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Problem in X and Y-axis dimensions,\"3d printing is a fun hobby for me. The problem that I face is deviation in X or Y axis dimensions. When I print something with specific dimensions there is 0.7 or 0.4 mm difference (smaller in X or Y dimension) when I compare it with the design. Even when I print a cylinder, it is oval. I don't have a problem with the Z-axis. My 3D printer is a Prusa i3.\n\nHow can I fix this problem? \n\n\nCan I solve it it through the software? \nDo I have to change something of the hardware of the printer?\n\n\",0scar,\"Usually uneven dimensions in X and Y directions are a result of improper belt tension of one of your belts. With improper belt tension, the positioning of the printer head is less accurate and typically results in non-circular prints. You should check the belt tension and adjust the tension, not too sloppy, and not too much tension (as it stresses the stepper motor which can lead to missing micro steps).\n\nFurthermore, the uneven dimensional differences you mention (are these values you mention for similar sized dimensions? e.g. is this measured on a test cube print), if they are smaller than the design, and if it is a complex design, can also be related to shrinkage, e.g. ABS is a well known material that shrinks. Plastic shrinkage is basically the same in all directions, but complex shapes could introduce stresses preventing even shrinkage in all directions. To counteract shrinkage, you should slice your model scaled, e.g. scale to 102% to counteract a 2% shrinkage.\n\nIf the belts check out right and you are printing in PLA, you may want to check the steps per mm value. This calibration is only useful when you print a test cube at e.g. 200%, the inaccuracies also increase with the same ratio. If not, than it is a positioning error, caused by some play in the machine. Please check the bearings.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6188,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mahdi Shakeri,1.0891412423578797,4.653123463505266,0.0,5.199501240805782,2.746326330407206,1.1258498433107285,Subtract of two STL files in Slic3r software,\"I have a question about Slic3r software.\n\nI would like to subtract two parts. For example, I have an STL model, when I right click on the part, I can select Settings..., and in the Settings window, I can select modifier and I can select slab.with selecting proper thickness. Now we have two parts where one of them is inside of another. My problem is subtracting those two parts.\n\nHow can I subtract this part from another?\n\",cmm,\"Given my limited familiarity with all the CAD tools that exist, I would fall back to something that I know does binary operations on volumes -- openScad.\n\nOne can create two objects, one from each of the two STL files, and subtract one from the other. One can also compute intersections, unions, and other operations.\n\nThere are probably other programs that also do this, but openScad allows for doing in programmatically, so that once you have it right, you can update the objects without needing to redo the finicky part of the operations.\n\nslic3r may do this, but I haven't seen such features in my multi-year use of slic3r for slicing. \n\nWhen in doubt, IMO it is better to script something. It is virtually never that I do something only once, especially in 3D printing where rapid prototype leads to rapid change and improvement.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n6188,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mahdi Shakeri,1.0891412423578797,4.653123463505266,0.0,5.199501240805782,2.746326330407206,1.1258498433107285,Subtract of two STL files in Slic3r software,\"I have a question about Slic3r software.\n\nI would like to subtract two parts. For example, I have an STL model, when I right click on the part, I can select Settings..., and in the Settings window, I can select modifier and I can select slab.with selecting proper thickness. Now we have two parts where one of them is inside of another. My problem is subtracting those two parts.\n\nHow can I subtract this part from another?\n\",MartianAndy,\"Don't try to do it in the slicing program, instead create a new STL that is the difference. The slicing program shouldn't be used to modify STLs.\n\nPlus, this is a pretty quick and easy thing to do. You can do a difference operation using OpenSCAD (as mentioned above) or atomiccompiler.com if you don't want to install new software just for one operation.\n\",0.0,0.0\n6130,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Marco,2.528907649931287,4.03211099847769,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Extrusion stops during print,\"I changed the filament (PLA) in my Wanhao Duplicator I3+. I ended the first try to print when I saw that the 'lines' were too thin. I re-sliced with a higher temperature (195°C instead of 190°C). Now the print started without a problem but after about 25% no more filament came out of the extruder. What can be the reason and how can I resolve it?\n\nThe filament is from Vertex, grey. The object that I use to test is a 20 mm hollow cube from Thingiverse that I have used for the previous filament too.\n\nI am not sure that this is a clogging problem since the print starts with no problems. It just stopped after 25%. When I started another print I was able to finish by increasing the temperature. \n\",kdtop,\"My slicer (Cura-lulzbot) has a setting for initial printing temp, and then printing temp after the first few layers. Is it possible that your temp is initially OK, but then drops too low? Does your printer have a readout that shows the current temp? Is the temp still OK when it stops?\n\nIt sounds like you are printing a sample cube, so I assume not too large. Could you simulate this by just directly command your printer to extrude 500 mm of filament, or longer? Then see if it clogs. That would tell you if it was a physical problem with your printer instead of some change specified by the G-code for a sliced print. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6130,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Marco,2.528907649931287,4.03211099847769,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Extrusion stops during print,\"I changed the filament (PLA) in my Wanhao Duplicator I3+. I ended the first try to print when I saw that the 'lines' were too thin. I re-sliced with a higher temperature (195°C instead of 190°C). Now the print started without a problem but after about 25% no more filament came out of the extruder. What can be the reason and how can I resolve it?\n\nThe filament is from Vertex, grey. The object that I use to test is a 20 mm hollow cube from Thingiverse that I have used for the previous filament too.\n\nI am not sure that this is a clogging problem since the print starts with no problems. It just stopped after 25%. When I started another print I was able to finish by increasing the temperature. \n\",Marco,\"I redid the print in order to reply to some questions posed in the answer of @kdtop. The print started but the output was not consistent and sometimes stopped. The temperature is 195°C and sometimes 'drop' to 194°C. First I pushed the new real so that the extruder did not need to pull so much. When this did not solve the problem I changed the temperature to 200°C. Now the output became consistent and my print finished. It was not as good as the one that I did with my previous filament. The top was not as neatly closed. Only the last 2 layers covered more or less for 100% the surface (perhaps 200°C is too high for this?).\n\nFor me the solution is to higher the temperature to 200°C (or perhaps 205°C).\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6137,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Obibousky,2.528907649931287,3.0158611934564274,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,\"Can't print anything, clicking and low extrusion\",\"I am the owner of a pretty Anycubic Mega I3 and it was very cool to own it. \n\nHowever, now I have several problems when printing with it. It clicks all along, at high or low temperature, at 5 mm above the plate, and the result is very disgusting. It is the same with the basic black PLA, or with other PLA from ICE-Filaments but I can't do anything. \n\nI use Cura and I've reset it several times, using the defaults options or not.\n\nHere are two examples of some prints (normal cube): \n\nexample 1 \n\n\n\nand Example 2\n\n\n\",OyaMist,\"The \"\"click of death\"\" is the feed bolt skipping as it chews a bite out of your filament. Your filament feed is encountering resistance and the feed bolt is slipping. I've seen that sad spaghetti so many times. After unclogging your head with a cold pull and cutting off the mangled filament, you'll have some things to try:\n\nI had a Lulzbot with the older Bowden extruder and learned to prevent spaghetti air prints by: 1) replacing PTFE liners periodically, and 2) increasing temperature for certain colors. My black PLA required +5C over my natural PLA, which was a total surprise.\n\nNow I have a new Lultzbot with the metal extruder and life is good. All metal hot-ends are so much nicer.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6137,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Obibousky,2.528907649931287,3.0158611934564274,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,\"Can't print anything, clicking and low extrusion\",\"I am the owner of a pretty Anycubic Mega I3 and it was very cool to own it. \n\nHowever, now I have several problems when printing with it. It clicks all along, at high or low temperature, at 5 mm above the plate, and the result is very disgusting. It is the same with the basic black PLA, or with other PLA from ICE-Filaments but I can't do anything. \n\nI use Cura and I've reset it several times, using the defaults options or not.\n\nHere are two examples of some prints (normal cube): \n\nexample 1 \n\n\n\nand Example 2\n\n\n\",avc,\"I had a similar issue after installing an E3D V6 using a Bowden extruder.\n\nPLA needs a heat break that has a PTFE liner, since with all metal heat breaks, it's probable that the filament will reach glass transition temperature in the heat break and stop flowing properly.\n\nAlso, I had filament that was 1.86 mm instead of 1.75 mm, which caused it to bind inside the PTFE tube.\n\nBefore correcting these issues, I was able to temporarily fix the issue by doing a cold pull to unclog the extruder, and was able to print around 10 cm in height of a 20x20x20 mm cube.\n\nTo do a cold pull, heat your extruder between 80-100°C, and then pull out the filament. If successful, the tip of the filament will be shaped as the inside of the nozzle. If needed, heat the extruder to 200°C and manually push the filament to fill up the nozzle and heat brake, then let it cool down to the above temps and do the pull.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6140,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,K D,3.452496054252184,5.997175283040765,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.929104701733314,4.410384278773418,What is retract speed & length?,\"On a 3D XYZ printer extruder, I found two terms I have no idea about: \n\n\nretract speed\nretract length\n\n\nWhat are these and why/how should they be set?\n\",Greenonline,\"Retraction is the reversal of the direction of the filament and is generally used when moving from one non-contiguous point of the print to another, in order to prevent stringing and oozing of the filament. If retraction is not employed then the filament still coming out of the nozzle, after the last point was printed (and paused), will stretch, thus creating a fine string, as the print head is moved to the next position where printing is to recommence.\n\n\n\nThe retraction speed is the speed at which the filament is retracted, or pulled back (by the extruder stepper), and the retraction length is the amount that is pulled back.\n\nThese settings are dealt with in the XYZware User manual, on page 43, section 11.5 Retraction\n\n\n 11.5 Retraction\n \n \n \n 11.5.1 Retract Length\n \n In printing object, before large movement of print module, print\n filament will be drawn back, such that slight negative pressure \n occurs in print nozzle, preventing material from adhering to \n the object while moving, improving surface quality of print object\n \n 11.5.2 Activate Threshold\n \n Such setting will allow users to set up retraction mechanism \n activation style. For setup mode, users usually specify the\n minimal print module movement distance for retraction mechanism\n activation\n \n 11.5.3 Lifting height for extruder withdrawal\n \n After retraction, the print module will be elevated slightly with such\n setup value. Such action prevents material from adhering to the\n object, and makes a more orderly final print stop point. However, it\n should be noted that excessively large elevation will extend print\n preparation time for the next print layer, and portions of angles may\n results cooling and difficult to bond conditions between layers\n \n 11.5.4 Add Extra Filament after Travel < Retraction\n \n Material compensation may be used to improve upon holes or \n poor extrusion due to excessive extruder withdrawal\n\n\nRetraction speed isn't dealt with in the above section though. In section 3.3, of the XYZware Pro. User Manual, it is mentioned:\n\n\n Retract Speed\n \n The speed for pulling filament backwards. Refer to the function introduction in the next chapter for more about retraction.\n \n Hint:\n \n Cooperation of retraction speed and other print speeds will affect feeding stability directly in printing. A print speed slightly faster than the retraction speed would prevent material squeeze from interrupt.\n\n\nHowever, the manual doesn't then go on to give any setting. However, the default settings should suffice, unless you are experiencing issues with stringing and/or oozing.\n\nA further explanation can be found here, Stringing and oozing:\n\n\n Reason 2: Retraction Length\n \n The retraction function includes two setting options. One is\n retraction length and the other is retraction speed. The retraction\n length determines how much melted filament will be pulled out of the\n nozzle. In general, the more plastic that is retracted from the\n nozzle, the less likely the nozzle is to ooze while moving. As for the\n issue, the default setting in the expert mode is enough for you to\n solve the problem. If you encounter stringing with your print job, you\n can increase the retraction length slightly to test again to see if\n the performance improves.\n \n Reason 3: Retraction Speed\n \n The retraction speed determines how fast the filament is retracted\n from the nozzle. If the speed is too low, it will make no difference\n to your print job., the melted filament will still drop down through\n the nozzle and leave on the model. On the contrary, if the speed is\n too fast, the filament will be back to the nozzle and cannot be\n extruded out in the next movement of printing. As for the retraction\n speed setting, users can reserve the default setting which is perfect\n for almost every models.\n\n\nTesting your settings\n\nAs 0scar has reminded me, there are a good number of retraction test prints available (cubes, towers, bridges), which will help you check that your settings are adequate. These prints provide models that have a lot of print breaks (points between which printing is paused and then resumed), which can cause stringing to be exhibited. See RepRap Wiki - Oozebane:\n\n\n Oozebane\n \n Objective: stop material oozing out of the nozzle during\n 'non-printing' moves.\n \n Many extruders will emit (ooze) plastic even when the extruder motor\n is not turning. To overcome this your slicing software needs to\n 'retract' the print medium during head movement when not printing. The\n retraction creates negative pressure within the hot end heating\n chamber which effectively sucks the print medium back up through the\n nozzle, stopping it from oozing.\n \n Calibration Object: oozebane-test.stl\n \n The calibration object prints two towers about 30 mm apart. The head\n must move between each of the towers at each layer. If your printer is\n not set correctly then you will see many fine filaments (or strings)\n between the two towers. You can eliminate these filaments by\n eliminating ooze.\n \n Calibration Object 2 (Variable sized towers for testing ooze): variable_size_ooze_test_nobase.stl\n \n This is a simple model to help tune reversal parameters for a stepper\n extruder (using much less filament before actually testing the\n ooziness). It consists of a number of towers with different\n thicknesses, with different spacing between each tower. A well-tuned\n bot should be able to produce even the smallest towers.\n\n\nA simple google search, thingiverse retraction, shows up a lot of examples, such as:\n\n\n10 Minute Mini Calibration Test for Oozing/Retraction at Different Distances\n4 Cube Retraction Calibration\nRetraction Tower Test or String retraction tower test\n\n\n\n\nCheck out the following (suspiciously similar) tags1, for even more examples:\n\n\nretraction_test\nretraction-test\nretraction\n\n\n\n\nAdditional note for Bowden setups\n\nAs Trish notes in the comments:\n\n\n According to my experience2 it is generally a good idea to add 2 to 4 mm of retraction to a bowden setup in comparison to a direct drive when dialing in the perfect retraction. This is, because some distance is \"\"eaten\"\" by the flex of the Bowden tube.\n\n\n\n\n1 It seems as if Thingiverse could benefit from tag synonyms\n\n2 and Thomas Sanladerer's advice during a stream\n\",3.367452517504837,0.0\n6147,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dale,2.8153892694839717,4.369885831180981,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Anet A6 printer power on/off,\"Just built my new Anet A6 and not seeing a power off button. \nHow do I power it down safely?\nAm I missing something?\n\",0scar,\"The Anet A6 does not have a power switch. To power the printer you need to put the power cord into the socket. To \"\"safely power off\"\" the printer you need to pull the plug from the socket. You can even pull the plug during usage when it appears to go wrong (e.g. when the nozzle is digging into the bed). The printer runs a continuous running program/instructions that can be interrupted at any time, it does not have to be shut down according to a certain procedure like computer operating systems that use a proper file system.\n\nYou can insert a power button in the power cord yourself for ease of use.\n\nFurthermore, it is pretty common to replace the power cord for a computer power cord with a C13 plug and connect a C14 socket with power button (and an optional fuse) to the power supply unit:\n\n\n\nPlease note that it is very dangerous to mess with the mains voltage, so please be sure what you do or get help from someone that does. Use proper tools to crimp wire correctors to the leads.\n\nIf you are not able to do the rewiring of cables to put in a switch, plug the printer into a power strip with an integrated switch button.\n\n\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n6149,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dale,3.0576060275493275,4.762858427065266,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,How long can you leave filament in the extruder,\"Just one quick question about the filament. \n\nCan I leave the filament in the extruder for a prolonged period of time while the printer is off?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Most filaments you can leave in the extruder indefinitely without any ill effects.\n\nThere are some filaments that need to be stored away from moisture, particularly Nylon, because they absorb moisture from the air and don't print well if they contain a lot of absorbed moisture. However, this isn't an inherent issue with having the filaments in the extruder (if you had some setup that protected the filament from moisture while in the extruder, that would be fine as well - but in most cases it is more practical to store such filament in an airtight box). \n\nMost commodity filaments (ABS/PLA/PETG) don't suffer from this as much (PLA supposedly also absorbs moisture but I haven't noticed this to be a problem, perhaps it depends on the conditions of the room in which your printer is kept) so they're fine to leave in the extruder.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n6149,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dale,3.0576060275493275,4.762858427065266,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,How long can you leave filament in the extruder,\"Just one quick question about the filament. \n\nCan I leave the filament in the extruder for a prolonged period of time while the printer is off?\n\",Horitsu,\"If you \"\"planing\"\" to leave the filament there for months, then it would be a good idea to store it away, but for most filaments it is not a big deal to be stay loaded... provided that the humidity is not high (e.g. a shower or kitchen next to it would be not so good). \n\nMy experiences with \"\"moistured\"\" filament is that they get brittle, but only breaks when I don't print something. And it is a pain in the a** to get out the last part of the filament that broke right at the entrance... so store it away is always a good idea, if you are not too lazy ;) \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6177,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dale,2.528907649931287,3.968770759494895,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Adhesion problem (heat bed or extruder issue),\"I am having an issue with the transition from the first layer to the second. It seems that the first layer isn’t staying put on the hot bed and the extruder is dragging it around creating a ball of filament. \n\n\nIs this a \"\"height issue\"\" or a \"\"hotbed temperature issue\"\"? \n\n\nAlso I ordered a new glass hotbed top. \n\n\nCan I remove the tape that was on the hotbed when it came in the package?\n\n\",0scar,\"If the first layer is not sticking well to the bed it can be caused by several issues. Usually the height of the first layer plays a significant role as does the flatness of the bed. Temperature can definitely also play a role; you want the temperature to be close or at the glass transition temperature of the plastic filament when it is in a sort of fluid state. \n\nPersonally I hated the original tape that came with the bed or blue tape I bought separately. Also the surface finish is nowhere close to printing directly onto the Aluminium bed or on a glass plate. For adhesion, a PVA based spray (e.g. hairspray, or more expensive special print spray like 3DLAC or even a glue stick), should be used as it becomes very sticky at elevated temperatures.\n\nThe tape can be removed, but should be replaced with something that grips onto the filament, see previous paragraph. I removed the tape after day one I got build my kit and started printing directly onto the Aluminium bed using the sticky spray.\n\nTo answer your questions, the following checklist determines the order in which you should solve your issue:\n\n\nFirst check the nozzle position relative to the bed; this should ideally be the thickness of a single plain A4 paper.\nMake sure the bed is level; what is meant that the bed is relatively level with respect to the nozzle, not water bubble level with respect to the Earth (you'd be amazed to find how many people do that).\nUse the correct bed temperature; it is usually found on the tag of the spool of filament. Alternatively, look it up on the internet, or increase it at first with about 5 degrees Celsius at a time.\nYou could over-extrude a little for the first layer by increasing the extrusion multiplier for the first layer, or add some extra temperature to the extruder (increase with 5 degrees Celsius).\nPrinting brims or adding mouse ears or discs integrated in your design may also work to create more grip.\n\n\nAnd yes you should remove the masking tape before you put the glass on as it would only act as an insulator.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6151,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jens Thomsen,2.8153892694839717,4.768038227639808,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Creality Ender 4 extruder problem,\"I cannot get my extruder to work on my Creality Ender-4 printer. I have heated the nozzle but the extruder does not move.\n\nI tested the motor and cable on another system and they work just fine.\n\nCould it be the board or what could it be?\n\",0scar,\"Apparently your 3D printer runs Marlin firmware. Marlin firmware default code has build in protection against extrusion below a certain temperature (usually 170°C) as defined in the printer configuration:\n\n// *** IT IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED TO LEAVE THIS OPTION ENABLED! ***\n#define PREVENT_COLD_EXTRUSION\n#define EXTRUDE_MINTEMP 170 \n\n\nAre you sure that it heats up above this temperature? Please check the connections of the thermistor and the heater cartridge.\n\nMarlin firmware code supports disabling the cold extrusion safety measure by setting:\n\nM302 S0 ; Allow extrusion at any temperature\n\n\n(save this line in a file with extension gcode and load and run it from an SD card or alternatively hook up your computer over USB to the printer and use an application like Pronterface, Repetier-Host, etc. to upload the command to the printer)\n\nIf cold extrusion safety is turned off, you should try to extrude (without loading filament) to test if the extruder works.\n\nTo revert use the following code:\n\nM302 S170 ; Allow extrusion above 170\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6151,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jens Thomsen,2.8153892694839717,4.768038227639808,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Creality Ender 4 extruder problem,\"I cannot get my extruder to work on my Creality Ender-4 printer. I have heated the nozzle but the extruder does not move.\n\nI tested the motor and cable on another system and they work just fine.\n\nCould it be the board or what could it be?\n\",Jens Thomsen,\"I change the stepper driver and that helped.\n\nOne of the stepper driver was default.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6152,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Reilly Lennon,2.8153892694839717,4.123969403930469,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Heated Bed not heating on original Prusa i3. Using a Ramps 1.4 EFB,\"So as the title said my heated bed stopped heating mid print. \n\nI'm pretty confident the bed itself is not the problem as I've ran continuity tests from the wires and a resistance check (which showed a total resistance of about 1.5 ohms, which is where it should be). I've done voltage checks across the input terminals which showed a successful output of 12 V. \n\nFinally I did a voltage test across the output terminal at D8 where the heated bed should be outputted to. The result came up with nearly 0 V. I then noticed that the LED that usually lights up for D8 was turned off. The weird thing is, I unplugged the wires from D8 and this time the LED lit up like it was supposed to. Due to this, I believe the problem to be with the MOSFET attached to D8. \n\nMy proposed solution would be to move the heated bed terminal to D9 instead of D8. I wish to this because despite the firmware set up for a fan, I do not have a fan attached to D9. This leaves this terminal open and with a potentially unharmed MOSFET. Despite this I have found no information on how to go about accomplishing this. \n\nWhat do you guys think? Is that even a good idea or should the component (or board be replaced)? Any help would be greatly appreciated.\n\",profesor79,\"you can swap pins in Marlin firmware.\nWhen you download it from GitHub, there is a file called pins.h (please be aware that this file is an example), and you can play with your setup to skip the broken mosfet.\n\nSometimes, it could be easier and faster to desolder and swap elements directly on the board - that depends on the skill set we have\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6152,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Reilly Lennon,2.8153892694839717,4.123969403930469,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Heated Bed not heating on original Prusa i3. Using a Ramps 1.4 EFB,\"So as the title said my heated bed stopped heating mid print. \n\nI'm pretty confident the bed itself is not the problem as I've ran continuity tests from the wires and a resistance check (which showed a total resistance of about 1.5 ohms, which is where it should be). I've done voltage checks across the input terminals which showed a successful output of 12 V. \n\nFinally I did a voltage test across the output terminal at D8 where the heated bed should be outputted to. The result came up with nearly 0 V. I then noticed that the LED that usually lights up for D8 was turned off. The weird thing is, I unplugged the wires from D8 and this time the LED lit up like it was supposed to. Due to this, I believe the problem to be with the MOSFET attached to D8. \n\nMy proposed solution would be to move the heated bed terminal to D9 instead of D8. I wish to this because despite the firmware set up for a fan, I do not have a fan attached to D9. This leaves this terminal open and with a potentially unharmed MOSFET. Despite this I have found no information on how to go about accomplishing this. \n\nWhat do you guys think? Is that even a good idea or should the component (or board be replaced)? Any help would be greatly appreciated.\n\",0scar,\"First you should check if the bed still works when applying 12V directly. You can then also check the voltage over the 12V output terminals to measure the power supply unit while it is powering the bed. It is unclear whether you measured the voltage of the PSU while it was powering a large load.\n\nIt is also a good idea to get the external MOSFET board out of the equation (the less components you have, the less you need to troubleshoot).\n\nFrom the post can be concluded that you are using the so-called RAMPS EFB setup, e.g. in Marlin firmware defined by constant IS_RAMPS_EFB in your firmware printer setup (Extruder on pin 10, fan on pin 9 and bed on pin 8).\n\nIn the pin configuration file pins_RAMPS.h you can find the following lines:\n\n#define FAN_PIN RAMPS_D9_PIN\n#define HEATER_BED_PIN RAMPS_D8_PIN\n\n\nTo change the pin layout, switch the values of the constants.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6153,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Matthew Wighton,2.8153892694839717,3.601668775190381,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Printer Enclosure Material Selection,\"Im planning on building an enclosure for my CR-10S and am debating whether to use MDF walls lined with an insulation foam that reduces noise and keeps the heat in or going with double pane glass walls.\n\nMy main concern is not necessarily keeping the enclosure hot as it is for noise reduction. Obviously the wood with insulation will give better sounds dampening, but I am wondering if anyone has tried both or at least heard a printer before and after with both and if the glass alone had a significant effect on the sounds reduction.\n\",0scar,\"To reduce the noise, you could replace the metal linear bearings for plastic ones. This reduces the produced noise considerably from experience. Also, put the printer on damping rubber feet.\n\nEnclosing the printer should be done with care, completely boxing the printer up could lead to increased temperatures of your board electronics, steppers and cold end cooling. Make sure to vent some air. How you box up does not matter, although double glass window panes does seem a bit of an expensive solution.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6153,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Matthew Wighton,2.8153892694839717,3.601668775190381,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Printer Enclosure Material Selection,\"Im planning on building an enclosure for my CR-10S and am debating whether to use MDF walls lined with an insulation foam that reduces noise and keeps the heat in or going with double pane glass walls.\n\nMy main concern is not necessarily keeping the enclosure hot as it is for noise reduction. Obviously the wood with insulation will give better sounds dampening, but I am wondering if anyone has tried both or at least heard a printer before and after with both and if the glass alone had a significant effect on the sounds reduction.\n\",Jeff Grabowski,\"There's a type of 1/2\"\" insulation foam available in the US that my shop uses. Here's a link to it at Home Depot. It's pretty tough so long as you aren't hanging things off it, and you could build a frame out of 2\"\"x4\"\" beams to pressure fit squares in there. It's also massively sound dampening.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6163,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Faraz Shams,2.1782824847157594,2.8568583264187786,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"Multipart 3mf file, need to extract one of those parts for printing.\",\"I have a 3mf file that has 24 parts in it. I want to extract one of those parts for printing. I have Solid Works, Magics, and NetFabb. \n\",Axel Fernandes,\"If your 3D file has separate objects and vertices and are just merged together then do the following:\n\n\nImport into Magics;\nSelect part (in the part list menu).\nRight click (in the part list menu) and select Shell to parts;\n(Be very careful here) Select the area you want to isolate with the translate tool. If you don't know how to do this just left click hold and drag the mouse to select an area inside a box;\nUse translate tool to move it a little ahead from the original grouped object (just drag on any axis);\nRight click (in the part list menu) and select merge part.\n\n\nShould work out fine. Tell me if you get stuck.\n\nThis can also be done on Netfabb. Not on SolidWorks.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6172,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ssquidd,3.0576060275493275,5.174664393477391,2.7799718631987322,5.199501240805782,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,Fix ghosting problem (damping versus bolting printer to a desk),\"I have a Monoprice Maker Select v2. It is the kind where the moving plate (heat bed) provides the Y-axis and the moving extruder provides the X-axis. It has a fairly rigid sheet metal frame. In addition, I added steel rods has Z-braces.\n\nI see some pretty obvious ghosting. This happens for an inch or so right after every sharp turn. Clearly, vibration is to be blamed. I found two simple techniques that improves the situation:\n\n\nsoft floor mats under the feet (allowing the machine to move freely)\nbolt the machine to the desk (preventing the machine from moving)\n\n\nSurprisingly, these two opposites provided exact same level of improvement for ghosting. My question is: which approach is better? Moreover, to further improvement, should I use...\n\n\n(extreme version of 1) hanging the printer from the ceiling using bungee cords (maximize the freedom to move); or...\n(extreme version of 2) bolt the printer to garage floor (0 freedom to move) ?\n\n\",cmm,\"Ghosting is caused by differential movement between the bed and the head when the head undergoes acceleration. The forces add energy to a resonance in that differential vibration mode.\n\nBy changing how you mount the base, you will change the mode and probably change the frequency. \n\nWith the soft mounting, the bed can move more easily. It will tend to follow the head acceleration better. The whole system will still ring (you can't get rid of the momentum change), but you can cause the energy to go somewhere else and not excite that mode.\n\nWith the base bolted down tight, the base gets stiffer, increasing resonant frequencies. You also may be making the base more resistant against racking or twisting motions. \n\nIt is completely credible that both interventions reduce the problem. Of the two, I would prefer any intervention that increases the stiffness.\n\nIf you know your movement speed (perhaps from your configuration file) and can measure the linear frequency of the ringing, you can determine the resonant frequency that is being excited. Depending on the frequency, you may be able to excite that frequency with an audio generator and transducer (maybe even just a speaker), such as with one of these: Dayton Audio Transducers.\n\nWith the system shaking at the right frequency, you can use your finger to find portions of the frame which are vibrating strongly, or maybe even your phone camera to make a high-speed video of the movement.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n6172,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ssquidd,3.0576060275493275,5.174664393477391,2.7799718631987322,5.199501240805782,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,Fix ghosting problem (damping versus bolting printer to a desk),\"I have a Monoprice Maker Select v2. It is the kind where the moving plate (heat bed) provides the Y-axis and the moving extruder provides the X-axis. It has a fairly rigid sheet metal frame. In addition, I added steel rods has Z-braces.\n\nI see some pretty obvious ghosting. This happens for an inch or so right after every sharp turn. Clearly, vibration is to be blamed. I found two simple techniques that improves the situation:\n\n\nsoft floor mats under the feet (allowing the machine to move freely)\nbolt the machine to the desk (preventing the machine from moving)\n\n\nSurprisingly, these two opposites provided exact same level of improvement for ghosting. My question is: which approach is better? Moreover, to further improvement, should I use...\n\n\n(extreme version of 1) hanging the printer from the ceiling using bungee cords (maximize the freedom to move); or...\n(extreme version of 2) bolt the printer to garage floor (0 freedom to move) ?\n\n\",Trish,\"There are 3 options to reduce ghosting working on different methods.\n\nBasics of motion physics\n\nWhen the machine changes movement direction, it does so with a very short time difference delay between the head and the frame, inducing vibration. Let's assume the head makes just movements back and force around a point $x_0$ in the mid of the bed with an amplitude of 1. So the positional curve of the print head is $x_h=x_0+sin(\\omega t)$. The second derivate of this is the acceleration $\\frac {d^2} {dt^2}{x_h}=-\\omega^2 sin(\\omega t)$. The frame though lacks behind, it has a phase shift to this. It's movement is $x_f=x_0+sin(\\omega t +\\tau)$, so its acceleration is $\\frac {d^2} {dt^2}{x_f}=-\\omega^2 sin(\\omega t +\\tau)$. The factor $\\tau$ is determined how the printhead is mounted (friction), the weight of the frame (it's inertia) and how stiff it is. It might change depending on the height due to the construction of the frame (changing stiffness).\n\nWe'll assume a 1-dimensional printer as it is easier to model, but in praxis, we'd have all three axis to look at to model the printer in its entirety.\n\nMethod one: less friction\n\nOne way to lessen the factor $\\tau$ is to reduce the ability to transfer the motion energy between the print head and the frame. This means to reduce friction between the frame and the printhead. So better bearings are one way to do this.\n\nMethod two: lighter head/heavier frame\n\nAnother factor is the inertia differential. If the head has less kinetic energy and/or the frame higher inertia, this reduces the ghosting as with less energy available, the phase shift $\\tau$ gets reduced. This is where bolting down the printer acts to some degree: the mass of the printer becomes the mas of the printer plus the part it is bolted to.\n\nHere is where a super lightweight head on lightweight carbon fiber tube rails with Bowden setup (Hypercube design) shines: by having a super low mass, the energy transfer is hindered.\n\nMethod three: Stiffening the frame\n\nThe frame has a certain frequency it wants to swing at. To shift this, one can add stiffening rods or different mounting, which also increases the weight. This shifts $\\tau$ down some.\n\nMethod four: Tuning $\\tau$\n\nJust adding mass to the printer and from the printhead or stiffening the machine has its limits. There is however a way to isolate the machine from other systems: put it on spring dampeners. As long as these dampeners are not in resonance to the frame's resonance, the machine itself can be tuned in itself. At this point comes in what you noticed when you put the machine on rubber mats: if the machine has a $sin(\\tau)\\to 0$, then the factor $\\tau$ suddenly gets only little effect on the calculation. By the way, the symmetry makes it easy for us, creating boundries: $\\tau \\in \\{0,2\\pi\\}$\n\nBest Practice?\n\nIt is often hard to find the best way through calculations alone. Even Engineers use trial and error to look for where to add mass (using for exampele clay and weights) and look at complex measurements how much mass they need to reduce where to change the ring of the machine so the multiple factors in $\\tau$ cancel each other out or get the resonance frequency where they want it to be.\n\nFor home use, it is often the best to fix it as easy as possible.\n\",0.0,0.0\n6174,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Stacie,2.8153892694839717,4.173387173194016,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Insulate hotend on Makerbot Smart Extruder,\"Simple question: how do you reinsulate the MakerBot Smart Extruders? \n\nBackstory:\nI work at the library. We've recently replaced the MakerBot (extruder connection issues followed by software incompatibility) with a Prusa.\n\nAs a new hire, I'm obsessed with the 3D printers. I'm trying to make it my mission to get the MakerBot working again, just so we can have two printers running.\n\nIt takes quite the request chain to get materials in and I had some plumbing tape on hand, so I tried to wrap it with that, per this thread. It's not going too well because of the housing around the Smart Extruder, which I cannot figure out to remove (easily and/or without voiding the warranty and taking it completely apart). \n\nI imagine even with the cotton + Kapton tape, you'd need better access to the hotend than the housing allows.\n\nAny help is appreciated!\n\",0scar,\"Strictly speaking, you do not require the insulation to be there. It is supposed to keep some of the heat contained in the core to allow more heat to be available for the filament to melt (basically higher print speeds and less chance of burning your fingers :) ). \n\nIf I go to the Makerbot website and look at the video Smart Extruder+ - 3D Printer Extruder - 3D Printer PLA Extruder\n\nat 1:37, you'll see that the hot end is wrapped in cotton and Kapton tape. Like the stuff that is cheap and easy to buy:\n\n\n\nand that the casing cover is removable, so you should be able to open it to insert new cotton. Why worry about voiding warranty? You can gain a working printer for a few bucks or bite the bullet and buy a new Makerbot Smart Extruder. I guess if you had warranty you could already have it replaced by now.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6174,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Stacie,2.8153892694839717,4.173387173194016,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Insulate hotend on Makerbot Smart Extruder,\"Simple question: how do you reinsulate the MakerBot Smart Extruders? \n\nBackstory:\nI work at the library. We've recently replaced the MakerBot (extruder connection issues followed by software incompatibility) with a Prusa.\n\nAs a new hire, I'm obsessed with the 3D printers. I'm trying to make it my mission to get the MakerBot working again, just so we can have two printers running.\n\nIt takes quite the request chain to get materials in and I had some plumbing tape on hand, so I tried to wrap it with that, per this thread. It's not going too well because of the housing around the Smart Extruder, which I cannot figure out to remove (easily and/or without voiding the warranty and taking it completely apart). \n\nI imagine even with the cotton + Kapton tape, you'd need better access to the hotend than the housing allows.\n\nAny help is appreciated!\n\",Joal Heagney,\"I recently wrapped a LOT of hot PLA around my print head and, as a result, had to remove the kapton tape and the fibreglass insulation that came with it.\n\nI was reluctant to use fibreglass because of the tissue embedding hazard and the lung hazard (especially on what is effectively an indoor appliance) and kapton tape is very hard to find in Australia.\n\nAfter some research, I wrapped the print head in 100% wool felt that I bought from a fabric store (be very careful, as most craft felt nowadays is either acrylic, polyester or a poly/wool blend) and then bound it all up with teflon thread tape (plumber's thread tape).\n\nCotton has a scorch temperature of 150 to 200°C, while wool won't scorch until 500 to 600°C, and the teflon tape can handle temperatures between 200 to 300°C.\n\nDid it work? Well I can now put my finger on the outside of the tape after the element has been at 200°C for 10 minutes, and only feel a little warmth. The print head heats up twice as fast, and I can run my massively oversized print cooling fan at 40% rather than the 10% I could use before. There is no odor of anything cooking off either. Success!\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6179,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bastian__,2.8153892694839717,4.470585119945735,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Steps per mm of extruder are incorrect after rebuilding,\"I have got a problem that after upgrading my printer to an aluminum frame my extruder went from around 400 steps per mm at 16 micro steps (which did match the manufacturer's recommendation perfectly) to a bit over 1000 steps per mm at 16 micro steps.\n\nThis is a problem for me, since the limited amount of steps per second lower my maximum retraction speed.\n\nWhat I tried since the rebuild:\n\n\nReplace and adjust the current of the stepper driver - no change, even with another type of driver on different micro steps, of course with other values, but also about 2.5 times too high;\nConnecting another motor with another cable - the other motor with nothing attached to it drove the same angle as my extruder stepper.\n\n\nCould it be that the ATmega2560 on my MKS gen 1.4 board got damaged? Or did I change something in the firmware, which does have this effect?\n\nI am using Marlin 1.8.5 and a E3D Titan 1:3 geared extruder and I am using the same setup as before! E3D claims to have 437 steps per mm on a 200 steps/revolution Nema 17 stepper and 16 micro steps. This value was working perfectly fine before.\n\nUpdate:\n\nWith an Arduino Nano I measured the amount of steps my board sends at 418.5 steps/mm (programmed in EEPROM and in firmware) on a specific amount of extrusion length \n\nG92 E0 -> G1 F100 E30\n\n\nand I got \n\n5220 steps for 30mm extrusion (reproducible). \n\n\nIt should be \n\n418.5 steps/mm*30mm = 12555 steps.\n\n\nWhere,\n\n(12555/5220) * 418.5 steps/mm = 1007 steps/mm \n\n\nto have the effect of 418.5 steps/mm\n\n...which is, oddly, the exact number that I got by marking filament, extruding, measuring and calculating.\n\",0scar,\"After a rebuild, and certainly after changing to another extruder (e.g. replacing it by a geared extruder like you supposedly did as taken from the comments above before the edit, which now clearly is not the case) or setup e.g. other stepper drivers, you should always calibrate the extruder. \n\nTo calibrate you e.g. disconnect the hot end nozzle and command to extrude 100 mm. Be sure to make marks and measure the extruded distance. Divide the latter value by 100 to divide this result by the steps per mm value in the configuration file. So, if you measured 102 mm and commanded 100 for 400 steps, the new would be 400/(102/100) = 392. There is a lot to find on this matter on the internet. All can be done with G-codes that can be entered through a terminal connected over the USB port. E.g. applications as Pronterface, Repetier-Host, OctoPrint, etc. all have a terminal interface to the printer if connected over USB.\n\nYou could find more detailed instructions e.g. here, or this video.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6179,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bastian__,2.8153892694839717,4.470585119945735,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Steps per mm of extruder are incorrect after rebuilding,\"I have got a problem that after upgrading my printer to an aluminum frame my extruder went from around 400 steps per mm at 16 micro steps (which did match the manufacturer's recommendation perfectly) to a bit over 1000 steps per mm at 16 micro steps.\n\nThis is a problem for me, since the limited amount of steps per second lower my maximum retraction speed.\n\nWhat I tried since the rebuild:\n\n\nReplace and adjust the current of the stepper driver - no change, even with another type of driver on different micro steps, of course with other values, but also about 2.5 times too high;\nConnecting another motor with another cable - the other motor with nothing attached to it drove the same angle as my extruder stepper.\n\n\nCould it be that the ATmega2560 on my MKS gen 1.4 board got damaged? Or did I change something in the firmware, which does have this effect?\n\nI am using Marlin 1.8.5 and a E3D Titan 1:3 geared extruder and I am using the same setup as before! E3D claims to have 437 steps per mm on a 200 steps/revolution Nema 17 stepper and 16 micro steps. This value was working perfectly fine before.\n\nUpdate:\n\nWith an Arduino Nano I measured the amount of steps my board sends at 418.5 steps/mm (programmed in EEPROM and in firmware) on a specific amount of extrusion length \n\nG92 E0 -> G1 F100 E30\n\n\nand I got \n\n5220 steps for 30mm extrusion (reproducible). \n\n\nIt should be \n\n418.5 steps/mm*30mm = 12555 steps.\n\n\nWhere,\n\n(12555/5220) * 418.5 steps/mm = 1007 steps/mm \n\n\nto have the effect of 418.5 steps/mm\n\n...which is, oddly, the exact number that I got by marking filament, extruding, measuring and calculating.\n\",Bastian__,\"Ok, thanks everyone for at least taking time to read or thinking about this.\n\nThe Problem is an absolute mess and there are two possible reasons:\n\n-> the octoprint eeprom editor is broken\n\n-> the ATMega2560's eeprom is broken. as far as i know companies buy used atmegas to cheapen the price and the >100k writes on my chip has been reached\n\nI will try to figure out the exact problem, if i find time in the next days.\nMy current setup is just deactivate eeprom and i'm good to go. Even wiping eeprom with a small arduino sketch will get the error to return.\n\nNow i will be able to sleep again :D\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6183,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris Schmitz,3.0576060275493275,4.611442545757665,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Issues with Proto-pasta filament extruding on prusa mk3,\"Has anyone run into problems printing with Proto-pasta's HTPLA on a Prusa MK3 (or any printer really)?\n\nI picked up some samples from PP, specifically their glitter filament and a couple of the premium HTPLA filaments. I printed one small piece with the glitter filament the first night I got the package, but I haven't been able to get any of the filaments to print since. \n\nHere's a video I shot outlining the issue's I'm running into.\n\nThe problem seems to be that the filaments won't extrude from the nozzle and this problem applies to all of the samples I got. If I unload the HTPLA and print with any of the other filaments I have been printing with (various inland filaments) they all print out fine. \n\nI thought maybe I had a clogged nozzle so I did a couple of cold pulls with a different filament. The pulls came out clean each time. I tried loading the HTPLA back in and while the filament extrudes fine during the MK3's loading process it still doesn't extrude when trying to run an actual print. \n\nI've read through Proto-pastas page on avoiding clogs with composite PLAs and adjusted my slicer settings accordingly but still can't seem to get a print out. \n\nI'm printing with:\n\n\nThe Prusa i3 MK3\nSlic3r Prusa Edition\n\n\nTried Extruder temp as low as 195c and as high as 220c\nSpeed of 50mm/s with first layer of 20 or 30mm/s\nTried at .15 and .2 mm layer heights\n\nStardust Glitter Flake HTPLA - 1.75mm\nCloverleaf Metallic Green HTPLA - 1.75mm\nWinter Blue Glitter Flake HTPLA - 1.75mm\n\n\nAny ideas??\n\nUPDATE\n\nOver the weekend I talked a bit with proto-pasta and did some tests on my own. Proto-pasta suggested disabling the filament sensor on my printer since the additives in some exotic filaments can falsely trigger the sensor. \n\nI went to try this, but my sensor was already off. \n\nI tried switching back to a known good filament and found that I couldn't get anything to extrude anymore. After researching a bit online I suspected that there may be an issue with a clogged nozzle, so I did a couple of cold pulls and then tried one of my known good filaments again. This time I was able to extrude and print out a full test without issue. \n\nAfter that I switched to one of the HTPLAs and it started printing. I thought all was good, but during the course of the test print the nozzle clogged again and stoped extruding. \n\nSo I'm close, but not quite there. I'm wondering if cold pulling again to unclog the nozzle and then walking through some of the settings changes outlined in proto-pasta's page on avoiding clogs will help. If I spent the entire time walking through that page with an already clogged nozzle it would make sense that nothing worked. That page is more a list of preventative measures rather than reactive. \n\nI'm going to dig in more tonight. I'll post back with an update. \n\nReply from Proto-pasta\n\nI got a reply from Proto-pasta for some questions I asked regarding the nozzle dimensions I should use with their filament. The 0.4 nozzle borehole is not too small for the glitter, though the larger diameter will help it sparkle more. \n\n\n Thank you for following up. Yes cold pulls that leave behind material can cause all sorts of trouble. It happens to me on the Lulzbot quite often, probably my biggest gripe about that machine. Anyways, on to your questions:\n \n \n Is this accurate? Should I print the glitter filament with a nozzle with a larger borehole diameter? \n A larger bore is not needed, the glitter flake is quite small and flows through a 0.4 nozzle fine. However, using a 0.4 nozzle and printing layer heights of 0.1 or 0.05 with glitter can cause a shift in apparent color as it forces the glitter to lay down flat.\n If so, what diameter should I use? 0.6?\n While not needed, a 0.6 nozzle does allow for a better sparkle or shine from the glitter filament.\n Are there other proto-pasta filaments that require a larger borehole?\n Generally any metal or wood filled filament benefits from a large nozzle size. For example, wood filaments most people suggest a 0.5 for better flow but they do work at 0.4. For us, we like to use 0.6 on the metal fills as it allows for a good flow.\n I have a spool of matte fiber htpla that I got with my last order. Can I print this with my nozzle?\n The matte fiber was designed as a non-abasive alternative to the Carbon Fiber filament. It does not require a larger nozzle, a 0.4 will work just fine.\n \n\n\",Chris Schmitz,\"tl;dr\n\nI had a dragging idler pulley that was causing extrusion issues. Opening the idler pulley door and working it a bit with my finger resolve the issue. \n\nThe detailed explanation\n\nSo after two weeks or so of troubleshooting, banging my head, taking a break, and coming back to it I'm finally getting good prints again.\n\nI do believe the original problem started with the clogged nozzle due to the bore hole diameter being too small for the glitter filament as mentioned by Axel in the post comments (a bit rude about it, but still probably true), but there were other issues that I ran into. \n\nTroubleshooting steps\n\nGeneral cleaning\n\nAfter I switched back to inland filament (which had been working fine for months) I was still having extrusion issues. At this point it was due to the clog (I suspect).\n\n\n\nI tried several steps to unclog the nozzle including the steps suggested by prusa support and cleaning techniques suggested by Tom amongst other places. \n\nI also picked up a couple of pencil brushes on amazon including a small brass brush that's perfect for cleaning off the extruder pulley teeth. \n\nCold pulls\n\nDuring these steps, I think I introduces the second problem without being aware of it. I perform a bunch of cold pulls (explained by Tom in his video and other videos and posts). During one of these cold pulls I forgot to loosen the MK3's idler pulley door before tugging. Once I noticed it I loosened the door, but I think that tug may have affected the idler pully getting it a bit gritty (I don't know how it would have done that, but it's my current guess). \n\nAt this point I was still getting extrusion issues and didn't think about the idler pulley being the issue, so thinking that the nozzle was still the issue I ordered a second E3D nozzle and some Ethyl Acetate which dissolves PLA.\n\nNotes on Nozzles and Ethyl Acetate\n\nE3D nozzles\n\nA couple of helpful points I learned while researching these purchases. \n\nThere are a lot of cheap nozzles that say they work on the E3D, but be sure to read the comments from whatever nozzle you're looking at because apparently a lot of them either don't fit or don't print well. \n\nI ended up purchasing a replacement nozzle sold directly from E3D to be safe. \n\nEthyl acetate\n\nAs far as the Ethyl Acetate, I was having a hard time finding it online when looking for it as a solvent without having to purchase the chemical in a giant jar. I didn't want to buy a jug, I only needed a bit. \n\nAfter doing a bit more research I found out that it's the same chemical that entomologists use to kill insects for preservation and when you look for the chemical from that context you can find it sold in much smaller quantities. I was able to find a small jar of ethyl acetate on amazon for 7 dollars. Smaller, safer, and cheaper. \n\nFinding the actual problem\n\nOnce the nozzle and ethyl acetate came in I pulled off the old nozzle, dropped it into the ethyl acetate to soak, put the new nozzle on (per the instructions from prusa's website), and reaccelerated the printer just to be safe. I tried printing a test block and it seemed better, so I then tried a larger print and while the printed model seemed better, it was still obviously having extrusion issues and crumpled in my hand. \n\nWith the nozzle ruled out, I started looking elsewhere on the printer. After watching a video from the 3D Printing Nerd on extrusion issues he was having on his MK3 I decided to check the extruder pulleys. When I tried to open my extruder idler pulley door I noticed I couldn't actually get it open; it seemed to be stuck on the bottom. I tried to free the bottom of the door, but couldn't without forcing it past my comfort level. Instead, I unscrewed the top of the pulley door to remove it. \n\n\n\nFrom here I noticed two things, I didn't get the pulley teeth as clean as I though I had before and the idler pulley's mounting rod was extended just a bit (which is what was causing it to stick at the bottom). I adjusted the rod and put the door back on. It was printing better but still had extrusion issues. \n\nI then watched the pulley during the filament loading and notices that while the extruder stepper motor was turning smooth, the idler pulley was stuttering a bit while turning. I imagine those little stops and starts were what was causing the extrusion issue. \n\nI opened the idler door back up and worked the idler pulley a bit with my finger. It started to spin free (maybe there was gunk in it? maybe it was rubbing a bit against the mount? ¯\\_(ツ)_/¯), so I closed the door and screwed it back in tight. \n\nRan a test print -> perfect. \n\n\n\nI've run several prints increasing in complexity and it seems like I'm back to printing well. \n\n\n\nHow I introduced my own problem\n\nAs I noted above in the explanation, I think I introduced the problem during a cold pull where I forgot to loosen the idler pulley door. I know this explanation is super verbose, but when looking around, even after fixing the printer, I haven't really seen many people noting that on the MK3 you should make sure the door isn't screwed down when performing the cold pull. It's def a common sense move, but I don't see it mentioned as a potential for introducing a problem. \n\nAlso I didn't see a dragging idler pulley as a possible cause of extrusion issue so I thought I'd note it here as well. \n\nHopefully if anyone else has a similar problem on the MK3 this will be a source of help. \n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n6269,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris Schmitz,3.267423727073639,4.09181718796098,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,What nozzle size should I use for filament containing glitter?,\"I recently had a series of issues with my prusa MK3 that kicked off when I tried to print with Proto-pasta's glitter filament using a 0.4 mm nozzle. The glitter clogged up and cleaning it out was pretty difficult. \n\nA different user here pointed out that 0.4 mm was too small for glitter filament. When I initially read (and, after the clogging fiasco, re-read) the Proto-pasta website I didn't find any information suggesting that a larger nozzle borehole diameter was necessary. \n\nI have the glitter and metalic green filaments. Do I need a nozzle with a larger diameter to print these or not? I emailed Proto-pasta about it the other day but have yet to hear back.\n\nUpdate\n\nHere's the reply I got from proto-pasta on these questions:\n\n\n Thank you for following up. Yes cold pulls that leave behind material can cause all sorts of trouble. It happens to me on the Lulzbot quite often, probably my biggest gripe about that machine. Anyways, on to your questions:\n \n \n Is this accurate? Should I print the glitter filament with a nozzle with a larger borehole diameter? \n A larger bore is not needed, the glitter flake is quite small and flows through a 0.4 nozzle fine. However, using a 0.4 nozzle and printing layer heights of 0.1 or 0.05 with glitter can cause a shift in apparent color as it forces the glitter to lay down flat.\n If so, what diameter should I use? 0.6?\n While not needed, a 0.6 nozzle does allow for a better sparkle or shine from the glitter filament.\n Are there other proto-pasta filaments that require a larger borehole?\n Generally any metal or wood filled filament benefits from a large nozzle size. For example, wood filaments most people suggest a 0.5 for better flow but they do work at 0.4. For us, we like to use 0.6 on the metal fills as it allows for a good flow.\n I have a spool of matte fiber htpla that I got with my last order. Can I print this with my nozzle?\n The matte fiber was designed as a non-abasive alternative to the Carbon Fiber filament. It does not require a larger nozzle, a 0.4 will work just fine.\n \n\n\",0scar,\"Fact is that you encounter clogs with this filament, so trying a larger diameter nozzle is an option to solve this. Nozzles are very cheaply found in various sizes, so buy a few and experiment. Commonly found larger nozzle sizes are 0.5, 0.6 and 0.8 mm nozzles, even larger nozzles exist, like e.g. 1.0 mm or even larger, but keep in mind that the hot end needs to keep up heating of the extruded filament, so deposition speed may need to be reduced for larger nozzle diameters.\n\nAlternatively, you could fight clogs the usual way by playing with temperature, layer height, retract settings, oiling filament, purging nozzle from previous filament or cooked up residue, etc, etc.\n\nQuoting someone's experience:\n\n\n As far as differences, here has been my experience:\n \n \n 0.5 mm low back pressure (High speed), and very hard to clog,\n 0.4 mm medium back pressure, rarely clogs,\n 0.35 mm high back pressure and very easy to clog.\n \n\n\n\n\nEdit: According to Proto-pasta, concerning filament with glitter, a 0.4 mm nozzle should not be a problem as the glitter particles are smaller, the print layer thickness definitely can be a problem. However, they state that a larger diameter nozzle will result in more sparkle as the glitter is not laid too flat.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6186,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,James B,2.1782824847157594,4.328251403802308,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Zortrax M200 skipping extruder,\"My Zortrax M200 has a skipping extruder motor, I’ve checked the seating of all connections and 3 different (electronic ribbon) cables and still can’t fix the issue. The gear is clean and have tried fresh filament. \n\n\nDoes anyone have any possible thoughts on why this happens?\n\n\nThe extruded motor will move in the desired direction and then skip back. \n\nLoading the filament is fine. Tried new nozzles, blockages checked, etc.\n\",cmm,\"Every time I've had an extruder \"\"skip\"\", it was actually because some condition was causing excessive back-pressure. Either the hot end isn't hot enough, the nozzle is too close to the bed, or something has clogged the nozzle.\n\nIf there is a \"\"skipping\"\" noise, then this is almost certainly the problem. When a stepper can not advance, the magnetic field will continue to \"\"step\"\". After the rotor is behind the steps by 180 degrees of field phase (which might be only a fraction of a degree os stepper motor shaft rotation), the rotor will snap back to re-align with the magnetic field. The sudden movement of the rotor and the release of compression on the filament often makes a loud clicking or thumping noise. If you can see the gear, it will jump backward and then rotate slowly forward before jumping backward again.\n\nTo see if it is the drivers, try extruding with no filament, or if you can, try moving filament through the extruder. If it doesn't move at all, or doesn't move under light drag, it may be the driver, the wiring, or perhaps the motor.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6186,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,James B,2.1782824847157594,4.328251403802308,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Zortrax M200 skipping extruder,\"My Zortrax M200 has a skipping extruder motor, I’ve checked the seating of all connections and 3 different (electronic ribbon) cables and still can’t fix the issue. The gear is clean and have tried fresh filament. \n\n\nDoes anyone have any possible thoughts on why this happens?\n\n\nThe extruded motor will move in the desired direction and then skip back. \n\nLoading the filament is fine. Tried new nozzles, blockages checked, etc.\n\",Axel Fernandes,\"\nCheck the pins on the motor. Are they bent? If yes - straighten them out with a screw driver. \nThis could be a stepper driver problem. If it is then bad luck. Zortrax hard solders their stepper drivers onto their control board (this sucks and is a pure monetization related move by them). \n\n\nThis results in you having to get a whole new set of connector cables and or new control boards every time something goes wrong.\n\nAsk for a control board replacement with new connector cables, if your machine is still under warranty it should be free of charge.\n\nSwitch to different or cheaper machines like Wanhaos or Ultimakers if you want the same ease of use and cheap part replacement. \n\",0.0,0.0\n6187,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sabriael,2.528907649931287,4.899661044145246,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Enclosure Ventilation,\"I am building an enclosure for my 3D printer (Anycubic i3 Mega) and I'm wondering about heat and ventilation for my machine. My enclosure is is build from five 50x50x50 cm Plexiglass frames glued together. Currently I'm using only PLA for printing. \n\n\nDoes my enclosure need ventilation so my 3D printer would not overheat? \nIf yes, what type of ventilation? \n\n\nIs only drilling holes enough? or \nDo I need to add some ventilator? \n\nIf I would print with ABS in the future would it change the answer?\n\n\",0scar,\"When printing PLA you do not require an enclosure! PLA does not shrink as much as e.g. ABS. When printing PLA you should definitely ventilate your casing. I guess your steppers are also located in the enclosure, so you should be careful of not overheating the enclosure. Not only the steppers, but also think of the cold end cooling, too much heat in the enclosure means that the cold end cannot cool enough to prevent the filament to melt prematurely; this can lead to clogs. Also note that the printer electronics board may become too hot too (too hot stepper drivers will cause steppers to miss steps).\n\n\n I once tried a towel over a Ultimaker 3 Extended to print a difficult filament to keep some heat in the enclosure; I encountered the above\n problems when I was young(er) and inexperienced :) We learn by trial and error some times!\n\n\nHowever, ABS, requires control over the temperature during printing. Draft or uneven temperatures may lead to problems related to layer separation or heat bed separation. Many of the high-end box printers have doors available to enclose the front, this results in an enclosure with an open top (sometimes even for the top there are covers available). The heat of the bed then heats up the enclosure. A constant temperature of 45°C should not be too high to cause problems. When boxing it up completely, you could use a temperature sensor to monitor the enclosure temperature and schedule a fan to ventilate when it gets too hot. \n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n7214,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,K_lash96,1.0891412423578797,5.0167672071319,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,\"Is a 3-D printer made from 3 CD Drives practically somewhat decent, being DIY and less expensive?\",\"I want some indication to all the workings of 3D-Printers and the basics of design.\nAll links regarding DIY 3D-printer are welcomed.\n\",Greenonline,\"I would guess that a printer made in the following way would be both poor quality, and annoyingly frustrating, as well as requiring constant tinkering/re-adjustment. Also, if the chassis of the CD/DVD drive is incorporated into the design (as below) then the print volume is rather small, given the inherent limited movement of a CD/DVD mechanism. \n\nIf the steppers are used without the CD/DVD chassis then it might be possible to increase the print volume but then you would need to spend extra on the rods and support structure for the X gantry, the Y-axis print bed, and the Z-axis movement. If you do that, then the steppers from the CD/DVD drive probably would not have sufficient torque to move the additional weight - by incorporating the CD/DVD chassis the inertia of the movement has been kept to an acceptable minimum.\n\nBy using the CD/DVD drive's stepper motors you are only really saving the cost of buying three or four actual, more powerful and useful, stepper motors (as well as the cost of the additional rods and support).\n\nThat said, it could be quite amusing to make, and show off, and also provide some satisfaction if you do manage to print a tiny frog, parts for another printer, or whatever, with it. However, I wouldn't expect it to print anything to any great accuracy/tolerance/precision/etc., but it would maybe give you something unusual to talk about at dinner parties.\n\n\n\nAn example\n\nThere is this (IMHO unjustifiably1) popular (i.e. well linked-to) Instructables guide: EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter, which describes making a 3D printer from old desktop computer parts2.\n\n\n $ 3DPrinter\"\"> 3DPrinter\"\" title=\"\"EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter\"\">\n\n\nAccording to E-waste printer looks nice, prints really, really small, it has an awesome print volume of 37 mm x 37 mm x 18 mm.\n\nApparently, all you need is to salvage:\n\n\n2 DVD drives (Matsushita stepper datasheet)\n1 floppy disk drive (ensure it has steppers and not simple d.c. motors)\n1 PC power supply\n\n\nThen purchase these standard 3D printing components:\n\n\nRAMPS & Arduino Mega or RepRap Gen6/7 - Capable of running Marlin/Sprinter frimware\nNema 17 stepper motor for the extruder - Either this, or better still something from RepRap Wiki - Nema 17, i.e. Kysan 1124090/42BYGH4803, Rattm 17HS8401, or Wantai 42BYGHW609.\nMK7/MK8-type direct drive gear for extruder\nPTFE tubing\nHotend (throat, heaterblock, nozzle)\nHeater\nThermistor\nCables, female connectors, heat-shrink tube.\n\n\nTo make the frame, you need a 325 mm x 362 mm, 5 mm thick acrylic sheet, and use this template (missing files):\n\n\n \n\n\nor this one (cnc-calisma-yalniz.dwg):\n\n\n \n\n\nYou will also need to 3D print these parts (the links to which have died):\n\n\nExtruder idle\nExtruder body\nHot end holder\n\n\nOnce you've gathered all of the parts required, you can then try to work through the incomplete assembly steps of the Instructables guide.\n\n\n\nOther links\n\n\nA very similar printer also made from an old DVD drive, Instructables: Curiosity 80\\$ EWaste Educational 3D Printer. See also An E-waste 3D printer for every child?\nA very complete, and IMHO, a much more doable E-waste printer, Instructables: Complete Newbie Step by Step, 3D Printer With All Parts Lists\nOther Instructables, that I've not really looked into:\n\n\nSuper Cheap 3D Printer From CD-Rom Drives\nCherry- 60€ 3D-Printer\nPoor Man's 3D Printer\nChimera: \\$60 DLP High-Res 3D Printer\n3d Printer for Less Than \\$100 USD!!!\nA Low Cost 3D Printer With Basic Tools\n\nThingiverse: \\$65 3D printer made from recycled electronic waste\n\n\n\n\nFootnotes\n\n1 Most, if not all, of the links for the printer above are dead (this variant, mentioned above in Other links, is much more complete). However, with a bit of knowledge, and common sense, it should be possible to work through those omissions:\n\n\nMarlin software - easy enough to find on Github\nThe frame laser cut - the original file is missing but an alternative is still available\nThe 3D printed parts for the extruder - as the links have died, you'll either need to find reasonable facsimiles on Thingiverse, which shouldn't be too hard to find, or buy them from cheap Chinese suppliers:\n\n\nExtruder idle\nExtruder body\nHot end holder\n\n\n\n2 Funnily enough, whilst searching around looking for information to fill in the gaps in the above answer, I found this question on 3DP.SE: Missing print steps in e-waste 3d printer\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n6201,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,MSD,2.528907649931287,3.09461209787822,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Not able to insert hobbed drive and filament in the extruder drive,\"I am building a AlfaMendel 3D printer (edited : The original question named it to be Prusa Mendel I2). I printed the extruder drive using PLA material from the STL available in the package but I'm not able to insert the hobbed drive as well as the filament in it. The dimensions of hobbed drive is correct. \n\nIs the problem related to shrinking of print material while printing the extruder drive or something else.\n\nI have included few pics of the extruder drive and hobbed drive.\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThis image shows the maximum possible insertion of hobbed drive in the extruder drive.\n\n\n\",0scar,\"Your parts are not in the Prusa Mendel i2 as found here or here.\n\nAlso note, quote:\n\n\n Parts included in Github repository have the wrong dimensions for the\n nut traps! Download the correct version from [Thingiverse Greg's\n Hinged Accesible Extruder]\n\n\nAre you sure you have the correct parts for the original Prusa Mendel i2? Maybe you have a different version? The original extruder mount uses an M8 hobbed bolt, not an MK8 hobbed extruder gear. The first is 8 mm in diameter, the latter is 9 mm in diameter.\n\n\n\nEdit:\nAfter you updated your post to hint to the correct printer, it appears that my answer still holds. You did use the incorrect extruder gear. The 9 mm gear doesn't fit in the extruder part as it requires an 8 mm diameter extruder gear.\n\nIt might be difficult to find a 8 mm hobbed gear with a 3 mm shaft diameter, they are usually 5 mm (as in the stepper shaft diameter) or 8 mm (as in the diameter of 8 mm bolts that are frequently used for extruder setups). You could redesign the part (load STL in a 3D CAD program and make the changes). By the way, PLA should not shrink so much. As can be seen in the photo's, it looks like your current printer does not print very accurately, that may also contribute.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n6204,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chepech,2.528907649931287,5.493604003993604,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,How to calibrate Ender-4,\"I have just assembled the Creality3D Ender-4 kit a couple of days ago.\nI completed some rewiring and everything seems to be wired correctly, I'm able to auto-home successfully, but this is the problem I'm having:\n\nI tried printing a calibration cube. \nThe first problem I noticed is that the printing is starting on one corner instead of the center as specified on the Printer Settings in CURA (check settings below).\n\nSecond problem is that I'm getting significant distortion. The movement of the printer seems to be fine, no jerks of weird sounds. I tried all I know but I honestly don't know how to proceed with this. I have a couple of hours of experience in 3D Printing so I'm completely lost.\n\nThis is the result I got (Model printed with Raft for adhesion):\n\n\n\nThese are my CURA settings:\n\nPrinter\n\n\n\nExtruder\n\n\n\",0scar,\"The first problem is solved by removing the tick mark at Origin at center. Most printers have their origin at a corner (not Delta's, their origin is in the top center).\n\nThe second problem is a little more difficult to solve. Please note that a kit should be loaded with preset values that should be fair enough to print, your picture does not appear to print the calibration cube correctly, so you should try to eliminate each possibility one at a time. As said, your picture is not very clear, but it does not appear to be a cube, it looks more rectangular (also note that a raft is only interesting when printing difficult, read prone to warping, filaments like ABS). \n\nWhat you could do is print simple squares (no raft, but use a brim or skirt), e.g. 50 x 50 mm (only 1 or 2 walls in width and a few layers high), and measure the printed size. \n\n\nIf these squares do not stick to the heated bed, calibrate the Z height to nozzle distance and re-level the bed or increase the heated bed temperature;\nIf the X and Y sizes are different, you should calibrate the steps per mm for the direction that differs (M92 is the G-code to set the steps per mm; M500 to store the value to memory; these codes can be given over USB using specific programs that interface through a command line interface e.g. Pronterface, Repetier-Host or OctoPrintor alternatively in a .gcode file and loaded through the printer user interface);\nIf extrusion does look weird, measure the filament width at various sections of the filament with a vernier caliper and calibrate the extruder stepper and set the correct amount of steps per mm;\nFinally, print the 20 x 20 x 20 mm cube and measure the height and adjust the steps per mm for the Z direction.\n\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n6204,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chepech,2.528907649931287,5.493604003993604,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,How to calibrate Ender-4,\"I have just assembled the Creality3D Ender-4 kit a couple of days ago.\nI completed some rewiring and everything seems to be wired correctly, I'm able to auto-home successfully, but this is the problem I'm having:\n\nI tried printing a calibration cube. \nThe first problem I noticed is that the printing is starting on one corner instead of the center as specified on the Printer Settings in CURA (check settings below).\n\nSecond problem is that I'm getting significant distortion. The movement of the printer seems to be fine, no jerks of weird sounds. I tried all I know but I honestly don't know how to proceed with this. I have a couple of hours of experience in 3D Printing so I'm completely lost.\n\nThis is the result I got (Model printed with Raft for adhesion):\n\n\n\nThese are my CURA settings:\n\nPrinter\n\n\n\nExtruder\n\n\n\",Chepech,\"Fix was actually pretty simple.\n\nI just removed the printer that I had setup on CURA following the manual provided by Creality (found on the provided SD Card) and started from scratch.\n\nThe one that worked was actually setting up the printer as a Creality CR-10 and then just changing the XYZ dimensions. This setup has the Origin at Center option unchecked as suggested in the comments. That's all it took...\n\n \n\nNew results:\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6206,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,hirnwunde,2.1782824847157594,3.7005487749244255,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Geeetech GT2560: Electronic safety and power source,\"I'm about to build myself a 3D-printer.\n\nAfter a long search for a brain for this one I came across the GT2560 from Geeetech, because it leaves a solid impression on me.\nThe manufacturer himself has a quite extensive wiki page for this board. \n\nMy idea now was to use an ATX power supply. \n\nThe PSU is a be quiet! BN257. On 12 V (combined) it can deliver 324 W. On 12V1 there is 20 A, on 12V2 16 A.\n\nWould that be enough or would you rather use a 24 V power supply?\n\nSince I have read some reports about the Anet A8 and its danger of overloading, I am a bit uncertain, even if the GT2560 looks a lot better than the A8.\n\nAre the connections to which the heating bed and the extruder are connected sufficiently large to withstand 10 A and 15 A respectively, or should I solder the cables directly to the board from the very first?\n\nAccording to the information I received from Dr. Search Engine, MOSFETs of type STB55NF06 are used. According to the data sheet, these can withstand loads up to 60 V/55 A. I don't necessarily need to replace them with external ones, do I?\n\",0scar,\"Whether 350 Watt is enough depends on the amount of Ampere can be generated over the 12 V lines. Computer power supplies add up the power of all the voltages! A nameless or cheap 350 Watt PSU may not deliver enough power (in the sense that they may never reach the given power), you should check that out. The high-end PSU's are usually well fabricated and can usually deliver more power (but should not be taken for granted!).\n\n\na typical (214x214 mm) heatbed is about 12 V/1.5 Ω = 8 Amperes (about 100 Watt),\na typical hotend is about 40 Watt,\nsteppers and board could draw another 5 Amperes (about 60 Watt)\n\n\nThis totals to about 200 Watt, which your PSU should be able to generate without a problem.\n\nThose green connectors plug in and out of the board don't they, usually with those small pins, transporting up to 10 Amperes is not recommended, you should look up the ratings of those connectors.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n6214,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,LinuxFerLife,2.528907649931287,3.510789227224567,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,\"Laser Engraver with Smoothie, RAMPS 1.4 or AWC708C?\",\"I have an old laser engraver that runs from Windows 98SE and DOS-6. Yup, still works fine but a pain as I regularly have to open it up and unplug and re-seat all the ribbon connectors. Fifteen of them and I tire of that fast.\n\nI am thinking of pulling out all the electronics and installing a TB6600 stepper drivers and Arduino to run G-code. My order of desire is based on price, RAMPS, Smoothie and the AWC708C. I'd actually like to stay away from the AWC as it is closed source and I would be stuck with whatever it has.\n\nWith the existing NEMA 17 steppers I can get rapids to 400 mm/s. Will a RAMPS system drive this fast enough? It doesn't have to be that fast, but close to and certainly not below about 200 mm/sec.\n\nI have been searching but cannot find any actual figures achieved. If not then I guess my second option is the smoothie.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Marlin supports a stepping frequency of up to 40kHz. For a pretty typical setup with 100 steps/mm, this translates to 400 mm/s - obviously, if you use higher microstepping settings or use finer pitched belts you will get a lower maximum speed.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n7950,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,LinuxFerLife,1.726248027126092,5.254559975593199,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Marlin 2.0 - set stepper drivers?,\"I have an Anycubic Delta with a Trigorilla board. I have swapped out the A4988 drivers for DRV8825.\n\nCurrently, I am assuming it is using the A4988 drivers as the steppers are making a quiet growling noise. Kinda like a grating, coarse hum.\n\nWhen I put the A4988 back in they are as smooth as always.\n\nWhere do I tell Marlin 2.0 that the assigned board has the DRV8825 drivers?\n\",0scar,\"In the configuration.h file of Marlin 2.0.x you can define which stepper driver type is used to drive the stepper in the Stepper Drivers section.\n\nYou can choose to use the following constants from the array to configure the correct driver:\n\n['A4988', 'A5984', 'DRV8825', 'LV8729', 'L6470', 'TB6560', 'TB6600', 'TMC2100', 'TMC2130', 'TMC2130_STANDALONE', 'TMC2208', 'TMC2208_STANDALONE', 'TMC26X', 'TMC26X_STANDALONE', 'TMC2660', 'TMC2660_STANDALONE', 'TMC5130', 'TMC5130_STANDALONE']\n\n\nAnd update the section that links the steppers to the stepper driver by updating the following section of the configuration.h file.\n\n\n//#define X_DRIVER_TYPE A4988\n//#define Y_DRIVER_TYPE A4988\n//#define Z_DRIVER_TYPE A4988\n//...\n//#define E0_DRIVER_TYPE A4988\n//...\n\n\nby removing the // in front of the driver specification and update the constant of the correct stepper driver:\n\n\n#define X_DRIVER_TYPE DRV8825\n#define Y_DRIVER_TYPE DRV8825\n#define Z_DRIVER_TYPE DRV8825\n//...\n#define E0_DRIVER_TYPE DRV8825\n//...\n\n\nThis results in the use of specific timings for the specific drivers. To be honest I have never set these constants when I used DRV8825 stepper drivers on my RUMBA board and my motors are operating smooth without these settings.\n\nWhat you do need to look out for is when you replace stepper drivers is whether the micro stepping jumper settings on the board are correct for your stepper driver! I needed to set the jumper switches in a certain position to enable the 1/32 micro stepping functionality for the DRV8825 drivers. Knowing that the maximum micro step for the A4988 is 1/16, you also need to look out for the steps/mm; with more micro steps, you need twice as many steps per mm when you go from 1/16 to 1/32; e.g.:\n\n#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 4000, 500 }\n\n\nwould need to be changed to:\n\n#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 160, 160, 8000, 1000 }\n\n\nAlso, did you tune the new stepper drivers correctly? When you receive the stepper drivers, they are usually not tuned and the position of the potentiometer on the driver board is undefined! You need to calculate the correct $ V_{ref} $ for your stepper driver in use for the specific stepper you have (max current that the stepper can handle). For DRV8825 stepper drivers, the maximum current is defined as:\n\n$$ A_{max} = V_{ref} \\times 2 $$\n\nFor example, if you have a stepper motor rated for 1.4 A, you limit the current to 1.4 A by setting the reference voltage ($ V_{ref} $) to 0.7 V. More details are found here.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n6217,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kv07,2.1782824847157594,3.0158611934564274,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Linking the 3D printing path coordinates to CAD for modelling,\"I was reading this research paper titled Sub-modeling Finite Element Analysis of 3D Printed Structures. In this, firstly, the author is trying to create a sketch for Engineering analysis using the 3D printing path coordinates and integrating it to a CAD software like Autodesk Inventor.\n\nIt says,\n\n\n By analyzing the corresponding G-code for the desired structure,\n important information can be extracted, such as the coordinated of the\n 3D printing path, key points, paths of printing and non-printing\n paths. \n \n ...\n \n The coordinate of the 3D printing path can then be imported into CAD software to obtain the corresponding sketch and consequently a solid\n body for each layer. Most of commercial CAD software packages are\n capable of this task. For this Purpose we have chosen Autodesk\n Inventor.\n\n\nPaper is attached here: Research Paper in subject\n\nCan anyone help me out with how this can be done?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The wording in the paper is quite verbose and somewhat unclear. All it says is they read the G-code file and somehow turn it into a 3D model.\n\nA g-code file is just a list of linear moves. Here is an example snippet I took from a random file (keep in mind a typical file would consist of thousands of such lines):\n\nG1 X140.621 Y114.840 E0.0065\nG1 X140.804 Y114.765 E0.0129\nG1 X141.016 Y114.737 E0.0199\nG1 X158.984 Y114.737 E0.6070\nG1 X159.196 Y114.765 E0.6140\n\n\nEach move is relative to the previous, so the second line of the code (for example) tells the printer to move to X=140.804 and Y=114.765 from the previous position (X=140.621, Y=114.840) while extruding an amount of material equal to 0.0129-0.0065=0.0064 mm of filament.\n\nIt appears that the authors have developed a toolchain to turn a G-code file into a 3D model, translating every extrusion segment into a part of a solid body (from the pictures, it appears that for a given move segment, they create an ellipsoidal extrusion and merge all of these together into a single solid body) - see Figure 9 in the paper.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n6221,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Érico Oliveira,2.8153892694839717,5.500053104074383,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,0.9784382375735183,Can't connect Cura to my Anet A8 on OSX 10.11.6,\"I finished the mount of my Anet A8, tested everything and apparently it was ok. I installed the driver that came with it, CH341SER_MAC, turned on the printer, connect USB cable, but nothing happened. \n\nIn Cura, I tried to add a printer many times and this message always appears\n\n\n The printer isn't connected. \n\n\nIn OSX, I discover in System Information, an USB2.0-Serial, that I think can be the printer. Is it a printer driver problem? Is it the Cura setting? I'm completely lost...\n\n\n\",Greenonline,\"You are using OSX El Capitan. The version of OSX is particularly relevant w.r.t. the CH340 drivers. A driver that works on one OSX version, will not necessarily work with a different version of OSX - even minor version changes of OSX can be affected (as the answers to Problem with serial driver for CH340G board demonstrate.\n\n\n\nImportant Note\n\nBefore installing any new drivers, it is always worth backing up the original file, just to avoid any unpleasantness later. For example:\n\nsudo mv /System/Library/Extensions/usb.kext /System/Library/Extensions/usb.kext.old\n\n\n\n\nI seem to remember having the same issue, not with a 3D printer, but just with a cloned Arduino board. I thought that I had written a lengthy blog about it but can't locate it at the moment (I will update this answer when I find it)1. \n\nThe CH34x ICs are infamous for their poor support on OSX. On Windows they generally fare a little better, and TBH it is probably well worth considering a WinTel option just to save yourself time, frustration and headaches...\n\nNevertheless, I think that I found this site to be useful, How To Use Cheap Chinese Arduinos That Come With With CH340G / CH341G Serial/USB Chip (Windows & Mac OS-X).\n\nSee also Compatibility between Arduino and Arduino clones:\n\n\n The most annoying issue, and even then it is quite minor, is that a lot of Chinese clones do not use an ATMega for the USB and instead use a CH340G. These chips, while fine when connecting to a PC running Windows 7, have great difficulties with the drivers on OS X, and end up just not being recognised. It is possible to find a driver for the CH340G, but when I installed it, it immediately crashed the MacBook, upon plugging in the cloned UNO..!\n\n\nThis advice also proved to be invaluable, from Post #47 - Arduino in OS X 10.9 Mavericks - Serial Port Issues\n\n\n For any others who haven't been able to solve this one yet: if, like\n me, you decided to go with the cheaper chinese kick off arduino clone\n boards and had problems similar to this one, please check the\n following forum post, as it solved the problem for me:\n \n http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=289518.0\n \n And another blog site that explains the whole process really simply\n for noobs like me:\n \n http://kiguino.moos.io/2014/12/31/how-to-use-arduino-nano-mini-pro-with-CH340G-on-mac-osx-yosemite.html\n \n Actually the dude has even mirrored the relevant driver that solves\n the problem without having to find it on an all chinese or all russian\n website!\n\n\n\n\nFinally, I have just had a problem with an Arduino Nano and my Mac (running Mountain Lion). Using this link, Connect Arduino Nano with Mac OSX:\n\n\n \n Download the driver from url: link\n Extract and install file CH34x_Install.pkg\n Run the command: sudo nvram boot-args=\"\"kext-dev-mode=1\"\"\n Restart the Mac.\n Replace the text -P{serial.port} to \"\"-P{serial.port}\"\" in 2 files:\n /Applications/Arduino.app/Contents/Java/hardware/arduino/avr/platform.txt (1 instance)\n /Applications/Arduino.app/Contents/Java/hardware/arduino/avr/programmers.txt (4 instances)\n \n\n\nHowever, this did not work for me, but I am running OS X 10.8.5 and the driver is meant for 10.9 (according to the ReadMe.pdf). My /System/Library/Extensions/usb.kext file remained unchanged (i.e. the date did not change), so maybe the installer will not work for 10.8.5.\n\nI tried the second of 0scar's suggestions, but this didn't work for me either (on Mountain Lion): adrianmihalko/CH340G CH34G CH34X Mac OS X driver - The usb.kext file was never installed in /System/Library/Extensions/ by either the 1.3 or 1.4 versions. \n\nThe first of 0scar's links, Signed Mac OS Driver for Winchiphead CH340 serial bridge, interestingly pointed out that, after installation (and the associated reboot), one may have to copy the usbserial.ktext file manaually to /System/Library/Extensions/`. So after locating the installed file I did the following:\n\nsudo mv /Library/Extensions/usbserial.kext /System/Library/Extensions/usb.kext\n\n\nand then rebooted once again.\n\nNote the change of the filename - this may or may not be necessary. Either way, when I used both usbserial.kext and usb.kext, yet again, this did not help me on Mountain Lion. However, the documents do state that this particular driver is for 10.9 (Mavericks) through to 10.13 (High Sierra).\n\nThe answer to this question, Uploading to a CH340 “Nano” board using a Mac with Osx High Sierra, may help you on OSX High Sierra.\n\nIt might be worth trawling through this list of questions on the Arduino.SE site: osx nano, such as this one Rename device name (ch340 usb to serial) Mac OS.\n\n\n\nAdditional note\n\nAnother pitfall is that some drivers may be named CH341xx.xxx, but they may work for both the CH340 and the CH340... then again, they may not. The docs don't always say whether they will or not work for both ICs.\n\n\n\nFootnotes\n\n1 I think it might be this Re: Arduino in OS X 10.9 Mavericks - Serial Port Issues:\n\n\n Yes, I have been struggling for a month or so, and finally realised\n (after reading\n http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=198539.15#msg1720630) that\n other chips were being used, in lieu of the FTDI chip, for example the\n Prolific 2305. After inspecting the board with a magnifying glass, I\n saw that I did not have an FTDI chip in my Chinese clones of an Uno\n and a Mega, but a CH340G instead. \n \n Once I realised that I found the http://wch.cn/product/CH340.html\n site, but the Mac driver doesn't appear to be there. After a bit more\n googling I found the kiguino site. I downloaded the mirrored driver,\n rebooted the mac, and when I connected the Uno, my MacBook died and\n restarted with the grey serious error screen and refused to boot.\n After disconnecting the Uno, the Mac rebooted as normal, so no lasting\n damage done, but I am a bit wary of trying to plug the clone in again.\n \n Anyway, note that the chip says CH340 on it, but the drivers are\n CH341. I assume that they are compatible.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6221,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Érico Oliveira,2.8153892694839717,5.500053104074383,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,0.9784382375735183,Can't connect Cura to my Anet A8 on OSX 10.11.6,\"I finished the mount of my Anet A8, tested everything and apparently it was ok. I installed the driver that came with it, CH341SER_MAC, turned on the printer, connect USB cable, but nothing happened. \n\nIn Cura, I tried to add a printer many times and this message always appears\n\n\n The printer isn't connected. \n\n\nIn OSX, I discover in System Information, an USB2.0-Serial, that I think can be the printer. Is it a printer driver problem? Is it the Cura setting? I'm completely lost...\n\n\n\",Programming Maniac,\"What Cura version do you have?\nCura only works with the Anet A8 via USB on versions 2.3 and lower according to this page. The page is from thingiverse(A 3d printing forum + print files page)\n\",-2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6225,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tuskiomi,2.1782824847157594,4.39592816477558,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Marlin Firmware Auto Leveling only re-centers the XY-axis (Delta printer),\"I'm trying to get my printer to auto level its bed, with Marlin firmware using the following:\n\n\nPrinter: Kossel Linear plus (Delta 3D printer)\nBoard: MKS Base V1.5\nFirmware: Marlin customized\n\n\nI go into the menu on my LCD, and go to the prepare screen. The screen has the following options: \n\n\nAuto home \nLevel Bed \nBed leveling: off\n\n\nWhen I select the \"\"Auto home\"\" function, the printer uses the stops at the top of the delta to zero itself.\nWhen I select the \"\"Level bed\"\" function, the printer once again uses the end stops to level itself.\nIf I turn the Bed leveling to ON, then the Level Bed function will do the exact same thing.\n\nMy auto-leveling device is connected to the Z-axis end-stop, and looks like so:\n\n\n\nI have the #define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR line in my config.h, as well as the #define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN line. I'm not sure why the printer doesn't actually lower the head to the plate and press the endstop.\n\nAny clues as to how to make the printer level the bed and not home the XY axis?\n\",0scar,\"You are correct to define the constants AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR and Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN, be sure to define the following also:\n\n#define Z_MAX_POS MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS\n\n\nand\n\n#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 300 // Distance between the nozzle to printbed after homing\n\n\n\nNote that 300 should be the distance from nozzle to bed after homing.\n\n\nPlease look into the configuration files of this Kossel Linear Plus and compare them with your own configuration files, you may have missed something. \n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n10825,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tuskiomi,2.8153892694839717,4.048917848429181,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,Why are delta bots so finicky?,\"I've had my anycubic kossel for a good while now, and whenever I print something, it seems like it falls out of calibration very quickly. The biggest example is that the prints tend to scale up as the print progresses, or maybe the print starts to drift, and comes out slanted. This seems to never happen in any similarly priced XYZ printers. Why is this? Do XYZ printers just have an inherent advantage over deltas? Perhaps Deltas have some precision loss?\n\",user77232,\"(The XYZ Printers are called Cartesian Printers)\n\nDelta printers are harder to get right, because they require precision parts. The arms have to be EXACTLY the same length, the frame must be square, the universal joints must have no slop. You should check to see if any of the universal joints need replacing, and that the length of the arms are equal. \n\nDeltas however are some of the fastest robotic platforms due to the low mass of the end effector.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n10825,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tuskiomi,2.8153892694839717,4.048917848429181,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,Why are delta bots so finicky?,\"I've had my anycubic kossel for a good while now, and whenever I print something, it seems like it falls out of calibration very quickly. The biggest example is that the prints tend to scale up as the print progresses, or maybe the print starts to drift, and comes out slanted. This seems to never happen in any similarly priced XYZ printers. Why is this? Do XYZ printers just have an inherent advantage over deltas? Perhaps Deltas have some precision loss?\n\",voxelman,\"user77232's points are valid but I have done several things to mitigate these issues on my Anycubic Deltas. \n\nFirst, both of my deltas have linear slide bearings. If your's has the bearing trucks that run in the extrusion slots this will lead to less precise operation and also is a source of wear over time. \n\nSecond, be sure that the end stop micro switches are positioned precisely and that their fasteners are tight. You may also want to use a mild strength Loctite on their fasteners. When operated at high extrusion rates all components are subject to significant vibration.\n\nThird, I found that the universal joints are also a significant source of play. I remedied this to some degree by placing rubber bands across the arms at both ends so that the play was minimized. The rubber bands should be wrapped fairly tightly to perform this function. \n\nForth, I try to tune the belt tension so that all of the belts have the same note when plucked. There are smart phone apps that will help do this. I believe that one that I use is from Gates, a premium manufacturer of drive belts. Also, over time belts stretch so you will need to retension them periodically.\n\nFifth, run through the firmware calibration process regularly for both positional accuracy and for filament extrusion and retraction variables.\n\nI don't use my deltas much any more since purchasing a popular XYZ type printer but it cost me three times what they did and it still has issues from time to time.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n6238,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Alex S,2.1782824847157594,3.629464590740985,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.488653845767225,Which common 3D printing materials/methods will suitably replicate (w.r.t. durability) this injection molded Polypropylene item?,\"Note: Before any negative flagging, we asked permission on Meta prior to posting & got a YES: Could this Printing Material Recommendation Question be or shaped to be valid on 3D SE?\n\n\n\nWhich common 3D printing materials/methods will suitably replicate (with durability) this injection molded Polypropylene item? \n\nItem to replicate via 3D Printing:\nClub Handle - 5/6 image album (a few images are attached below as well) \n\nPhysics, Mechanics & Forces in play on object:\nUsage Intent is not to create an Impact or Hit but to Flow in Circular motion like this: YouTube - 10 Best Indian Club Exercises \n\n\nItem with PCO 28 PET Threading\n20 cm Length - Avg. 28 mm Diameter\n\n\nInstead of me trying to figure out materials, I seek advice from experienced experts here. \n\nPlease advise and suggest on materials:\n\n\nIdeal top 3 materials recommended/ most suitable for this item?\nOther top 3 materials that are easier to get through \"\"Entities\"\" on 3dHubs? \nAdd Thought: Is \"\"negative\"\" printing is the way to go (Sculpting, lathe, threading, CNC types)? \n\n\nNote: The immediate answer people gave was to use PP printing, however I am looking for alternatives because PP printing is not common or easy to find nearby and expensive. \n\n\n\nSelf Homework:\n\nSo I looked through these material guides which show different attributes and ratings for various parameters:\n\n\nPrint-ability\nStrength\nStiffness\nDurability\nPrice\n\n\nFor example, Polypropylene - Simplify3D - Polypropylene\n\nPolypropylene is great for high-cycle, low strength applications due to its fatigue resistance, semi-flexible, and lightweight characteristics.\n\nEntire Material Lists looked at:\n\n\nSimplify3D - Ultimate 3D Printing Materials Guide\nTinkercad - 3D Printing Materials Guide\nAll3DP - 2018 3D Printing Materials Guide\n3DPrinting.com - 3D Printer Materials Guide\nShapeways - Materials for every stage of any project \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\",Trish,\"No FDM print at all.\n\nThe problem of your design will not be the materials, but a basic property of FDM printing: FDM Printers do create a structure by placing a long string of filament next to itself and ontop of itself, creating tons of boudaries.\n\nThese boundaries between the layers are the weak points for this application: Even if the material like ABS could withstand the blow handled with such a club, the print will break at its weakest point - which in this case is any layer boundary. This is amplyfied by the basic design we have here: The elongated shape will serve as a lever on each of the weak boundries, until one gives way and results in catastrophic failure and a flying clubhead.\n\nNon-FDM for the rescue.\n\nTo counteract this, you need to use a different method than FDM printing to get a more homogenous material than the bound deposited filament. Such methods could be for example SLA (Stereolithography) or SLS (Selective Laser Sintering). Both could easily offer even tiny details.\n\nSLS uses Nylon or metal powders, sometimes even ceramics - Tungstencarbide for example.\n\nSLA/Resin\n\nUsing a Resin printer using the SLA methods results in an object almost as homogenous as an injecion molded object. Proper aftercare and curing is required to get the best results. Also, Resin prints usually age under UV light, which can negatively impact lifetime. SLA printers are expensive (for home printers), print shops that offer them relatively rare and costly (in comparison to FDM) but usually offer superb resolution and almost perfect smoothness. A lot of the exact material properties is resin and aftercare dependant.\n\nA way around the aging could be that the results of an SLA print could be used to create green-sand molds countless times, which can be used for casting metal or even some thermoplastics. Remember though, that cooling metal shrinks.\n\nSLS Nylon\n\nNylon would be a medium rigid, light solution, but it ages and has a quite rough surface. It does offer some flex, almost perfect for this application. While most SLS machines for nylon are commercial to industrial, print technology of this kind is widespread enough to make them somewhat affordable (for an industrial printer) and printshops for these relatively common, prints are not cheap but well priced.\n\nDMLS / SLM\n\nDirect Metal Laser Sintering and Selective Laser Melting - an evolution of SLS - allows to create structures from various metals by sintering/melting powders of metal at the right spot to gain shape. The benefit would be, that you get a part that could withstand much more destructive testing than your bottle used as a clubhead - you get a workpiece of solid metal (Steel, aluminium, Titanium and a lot others are available) after all that has the same properties as a cast item. The big downside is, that only few companies currently delve into DMLS, among them the former patent holder of many of the FDM printing patents, Stratasys. This means, that a machine for this is industrial rated and priced, and that print suppliers charge accordingly. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6238,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Alex S,2.1782824847157594,3.629464590740985,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.488653845767225,Which common 3D printing materials/methods will suitably replicate (w.r.t. durability) this injection molded Polypropylene item?,\"Note: Before any negative flagging, we asked permission on Meta prior to posting & got a YES: Could this Printing Material Recommendation Question be or shaped to be valid on 3D SE?\n\n\n\nWhich common 3D printing materials/methods will suitably replicate (with durability) this injection molded Polypropylene item? \n\nItem to replicate via 3D Printing:\nClub Handle - 5/6 image album (a few images are attached below as well) \n\nPhysics, Mechanics & Forces in play on object:\nUsage Intent is not to create an Impact or Hit but to Flow in Circular motion like this: YouTube - 10 Best Indian Club Exercises \n\n\nItem with PCO 28 PET Threading\n20 cm Length - Avg. 28 mm Diameter\n\n\nInstead of me trying to figure out materials, I seek advice from experienced experts here. \n\nPlease advise and suggest on materials:\n\n\nIdeal top 3 materials recommended/ most suitable for this item?\nOther top 3 materials that are easier to get through \"\"Entities\"\" on 3dHubs? \nAdd Thought: Is \"\"negative\"\" printing is the way to go (Sculpting, lathe, threading, CNC types)? \n\n\nNote: The immediate answer people gave was to use PP printing, however I am looking for alternatives because PP printing is not common or easy to find nearby and expensive. \n\n\n\nSelf Homework:\n\nSo I looked through these material guides which show different attributes and ratings for various parameters:\n\n\nPrint-ability\nStrength\nStiffness\nDurability\nPrice\n\n\nFor example, Polypropylene - Simplify3D - Polypropylene\n\nPolypropylene is great for high-cycle, low strength applications due to its fatigue resistance, semi-flexible, and lightweight characteristics.\n\nEntire Material Lists looked at:\n\n\nSimplify3D - Ultimate 3D Printing Materials Guide\nTinkercad - 3D Printing Materials Guide\nAll3DP - 2018 3D Printing Materials Guide\n3DPrinting.com - 3D Printer Materials Guide\nShapeways - Materials for every stage of any project \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\",Boojah,\"I do think that FDM is possible for this item.\n\nPolyamide (nylon) would be my first choice for this, as it has great interlayer strength and it is very impact resistant and durable. Its failure mode will be permanent bending and stretching rather than cracks or a clean break like common FDM plastics like PLA and ABS.\n\nI also needed a filament to simulate PP for FDM use recently, and found that Polymaker's nylon co-polymer CoPa in its conditioned state closely matches PP in its properties. Conditioned means that it has absorbed moisture which softens polyamide.\n\nRegular nylon for 3d printing should have similar properties to CoPa, if a bit softer than PP in my experience.\n\nHowever material is only secondary to geometry\n\nI believe that in general the actual 3d model and its geometry is more important than the material itself. Indeed this item could be made using regular brittle PLA if the design is good, but it might be heavy or bulky. Thus choosing a better suited material is often a trade between weight, dimensions, and cost. Printing with PLA using very high infill might work, but would take too long and be too heavy compared to nylon, as an example. \n\nThis also means that the design of the part would inform the choice of the printing method to be used. Using FDM printing the Z-axis is a lot weaker than X-Y. But other methods are not completely isotropic either - they still have layers that can introduce stress risers and weaker bonding, but they are much less prominent than in FDM. Changing the design can enable you to choose a cheaper process.\n\nTwo important principles for designing for 3d printing to be considered before doing a final selection of material are:\n\n\nIncreasing the dimensions/wall thickness in weak or highly loaded\nareas.\nDesign with printing orientation in mind. Choose a proper orientation for the load the item will experience.\n\n\nTo exemplify for your particular case:\nIncrease the thickness of the handle around the connection to the bottle.\nLay it down with the long axis in the X-Y plane which will increase the strength tremendously, perhaps enabling it to be printed in PLA, ABS or PETG. Either split it in half and glue/screw it together, or use supports. You may need to print the threads upright as a separate part that is mated to the handle in the assembly process.\n\nFinally, I would like to encourage you to embrace the main benefit of \"\"rapid prototyping\"\" - its speed and low cost to try things out. Make a first prototype and test it to destruction before settling on the design and material selection.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6245,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bijal Patel,2.8153892694839717,3.9831360400925715,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Marlin Minimum X/Y Feedrate,\"I'm in a situation where I'd like to move the XY axes on my printer extremely slowly (down to 0.05 mm/s = 3 mm/min). [I'm okay with 'smooth' motion not being possible].\n\nFirst off, here's the (somewhat Frankensteined) setup I'm using:\n\nI'm basically using the LulzBot TAZ 6 for motion control (XYZ, bed temp) with a custom extruder mounted in the place of the printhead. I've got a computer running a Perl script on Debian which sends synchronized commands to my extruder hardware and the board on the TAZ 6. So far I've only slightly modified the Marlin firmware to match the baud rate on my computer and shrink the motion command buffer.\n\nMotion control for the TAZ 6 is accomplished by directly sending G-code line by line either from a terminal or from that Perl script. \n\nWhat I've found is that while I can set arbitrarily slow speeds for the Z axis (lead screw), the X and Y (belts) won't go slower than about 15 mm/min. The printer will accept the e.g., G1 F0.1 X1 input, but will just move at the 15 mm/min.\n\nUnfortunately, the experiment I'm trying is giving me good results at ~5 mm/min (on a commercial linear stage), so I'd like to resolve this.\n\nI've tried setting the jerk to 0/low values via M205 S0 T0 X0 Y0, and the maximum acceleration lower as well (M203? I recall), but without resolution.\n\nIs movement limited just by the type of actuator? It seems to work for the Z-axis but not the X/Y-axes, I think it might be some firmware setting.\n\nEdit: I've attached an image of the default settings from an M503 call (acceleration, jerk, steps/unit, etc).\n\",profesor79,\"What I could suggest here is: \n\n\nset the acceleration to 1 instead 0 so we have M201 X1 Y1 \nuse G1 Xdest Ydest F3 - feed rate is given as an integer\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6260,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,iFreilicht,3.0576060275493275,3.293352546145431,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Line width changes depending on the direction the print head moves,\"I just re-ran all basic calibration steps from the Original Prusa i3 MK2 Manual.\n\nNow, when doing the first layer calibration, lines that are running in positive X direction are ok, while those running in negative X direction are severely squished.\n\n\n(The \"\"waviness\"\" of my print bed is an artifact of the camera lens distortion of my smartphone)\n\nI already did Bed level correction, so each line is exactly the same width over its entire distance and tried to raise the live-adjust Z, but that leads to the thin lines not adhering at all. My printer is 100% stock, I modified nothing about it. \n\nWhat can I do to troubleshoot this further?\n\",iFreilicht,\"As pointed at by @Horitsu, the Nozzle was the problem. Its outflowing hole was not perfectly round anymore, leading to a higher extrusion rate in one direction than others.\n\nI exchanged it, and now everything works great again!\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6260,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,iFreilicht,3.0576060275493275,3.293352546145431,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Line width changes depending on the direction the print head moves,\"I just re-ran all basic calibration steps from the Original Prusa i3 MK2 Manual.\n\nNow, when doing the first layer calibration, lines that are running in positive X direction are ok, while those running in negative X direction are severely squished.\n\n\n(The \"\"waviness\"\" of my print bed is an artifact of the camera lens distortion of my smartphone)\n\nI already did Bed level correction, so each line is exactly the same width over its entire distance and tried to raise the live-adjust Z, but that leads to the thin lines not adhering at all. My printer is 100% stock, I modified nothing about it. \n\nWhat can I do to troubleshoot this further?\n\",Horitsu,\"Due to the advice from @0scar i formulate my answer in the comments as a proper answer ;)\n\nCheck the nozzle, if it is in shape and good condition.\nI scratched my nozzle over the metal heat bed by accident...it becomes nasty... and produced inconsistent line widths. Since the metal of most nozzles is brass it is easy to machine...and easy to deform. And since you will need several nozzles over time get some new ones and try with them.\n\nAlso not every new nozzle will be perfect, so defect products happen, especially if they are cheap and have really tight measurements. \n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6262,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Phil Freedenberg,2.8153892694839717,3.2043470614382206,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Should black high temperature ABS flow in direct sunlight?,\"I bought a digital sundial online and deployed it in (what else?) direct sunlight in DC in June. Within 30 minutes the gnomon started to sag and the mount started to pull away from the gnomon at the bolt.\n\nThis shouldn't happen, right? Or is this expected?\n\",Horitsu,\"Are you sure that this is ABS? (Since it is already trash, you can make a fire test. It should [correct me if i'm wrong] produce black smoke) Some ABS can becomes soft at already 80°C.\n\nJust for fun I measured the temp of my gray sofa that was directly in sun light: It was over 70°C. So it could be possible that the sun light already was enough to weak the black ABS. Also the ground is interesting. Some idi**** room mate puts my black ¿abs? alarm clock on a metal windowsill because he want to know the temps there in the direct sunlight... the alarm clock becomes deformed :(\n\nProbably white and/or coated ABS would be better. Also a inner rod would help against deformation.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6273,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Samuel,1.726248027126092,4.074268075559351,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,See G-code before exporting,\"When using Slic3r I noticed that Slice now and Export G-Code do different things. While Slice now is nice, it does not show any tool paths etc. \n\nIs there an actual way to generate and visualize the G-code in Slic3r without saving the exported G-Code first? When aligning seams etc., it is quite annoying to always save the file to see a difference because Slice now seems to make little difference.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"After you use the Slice Now button (and the slicing progress bar shows completed), select the preview tab. To the right of the window you will see a pair of vertical sliders. Each slider changes the start and finish locations for the filament layers.\n\nYou can slide the left one to the bottom, which will \"\"empty\"\" the virtual print bed. Each movement upward will display a succeeding layer, showing the placement of the filament. This ostensibly will present to you alignment information as well as unexpected holes or other failure points.\n\nI don't know of any slicer that lacks a preview. That doesn't mean one does not exist, but why would such a useful feature be omitted?\n\",0.0,0.0\n6273,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Samuel,1.726248027126092,4.074268075559351,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,See G-code before exporting,\"When using Slic3r I noticed that Slice now and Export G-Code do different things. While Slice now is nice, it does not show any tool paths etc. \n\nIs there an actual way to generate and visualize the G-code in Slic3r without saving the exported G-Code first? When aligning seams etc., it is quite annoying to always save the file to see a difference because Slice now seems to make little difference.\n\",Peter,\"Using Repetier Host V2.1.2 and slicing with Slic3r (or with CuraEngine), there is an \"\"edit Gcode\"\" button under the Print Preview tab. It is located at the top right of the screen. With that button you can access, examine and change the Gcode of the project you are working on.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6279,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Craciun Alex,2.528907649931287,3.7217012100104734,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.306096197889172,\"Very old 3D Printer, which brand or type is this?\",\"I just received an old 3D printer from one of my school teachers. I have no idea whatsoever as to which brand it is, no instruction manual attached to it, or any other info about it. \n\nHow can I find some information about it? \n\nSome links would be very useful. Remember when giving advice that I know nothing about 3D printers. \n\nThis is the printer:\n\nBackside\n\n\nFront\n\n\nThe X-axis stepper\n\n\nThe electronics board\n\n\",profesor79,\"As far as I can see on the pictures - the main board shall be capable to upload Marlin software and run smoothly.\n\nIf you connect power and PC/Mac over the USB connection, then using Pronterface you can validate mechanical movements of the printer.\n\nAs the rods looks a bit dusty - please clean them with a soft cloth and degreaser to avoid jamming.\n\nIf you have any issues you could flash a new version of the firmware - please use this answer, to the question, How to upload firmware to reprap printer?, as a guide to how to upload firmware to the printer.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6279,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Craciun Alex,2.528907649931287,3.7217012100104734,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.306096197889172,\"Very old 3D Printer, which brand or type is this?\",\"I just received an old 3D printer from one of my school teachers. I have no idea whatsoever as to which brand it is, no instruction manual attached to it, or any other info about it. \n\nHow can I find some information about it? \n\nSome links would be very useful. Remember when giving advice that I know nothing about 3D printers. \n\nThis is the printer:\n\nBackside\n\n\nFront\n\n\nThe X-axis stepper\n\n\nThe electronics board\n\n\",0scar,\"This is an old 3D printer that looks a lot like the Mendel or a simpler remix of the Mendel (the Prusa Mendel). I think this is a Mendel you have obtained, it was released in October 2009.\n\nThis is a printer type from the early days, a lot about these printers can be found now that you know the type. These old types can be constructed from printed parts and hardware store materials. Nowadays, metals like steel and aluminium sheets or aluminium profiles are more commonly used.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n6281,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,elias,2.8153892694839717,5.311383662677793,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.9505769891325135,Anet A8 LCD shows garbage data after done printing,\"I have an Anet A8, and recently updated the firmware to Marlin 1.1.8.\nMy only change was replacing the configuration files by the Anet A8 sample files built in with the firmware zip file.\n\nEverything works fine but, sometimes, right after finishing a printing (while doing the \"\"home all\"\"), the LCD shows some weird data, like this:\n\n\n\nThe same happens when push the \"\"confirm\"\", after the mesh bed leveling.\nI'd like to know why it happens. Is it a Marlin bug?\n\",0scar,\"This is a known problem of the Anet A8 display, it is caused by electrical interference. Pressing the middle button will refresh the display.\n\nThis is prone to happen when doing long prints. \n\nThere are some reported successes of people inserting ferrite beads or toroidal rings. \n\nNo, this is not a firmware issue, this is a hardware issue.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n6281,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,elias,2.8153892694839717,5.311383662677793,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.9505769891325135,Anet A8 LCD shows garbage data after done printing,\"I have an Anet A8, and recently updated the firmware to Marlin 1.1.8.\nMy only change was replacing the configuration files by the Anet A8 sample files built in with the firmware zip file.\n\nEverything works fine but, sometimes, right after finishing a printing (while doing the \"\"home all\"\"), the LCD shows some weird data, like this:\n\n\n\nThe same happens when push the \"\"confirm\"\", after the mesh bed leveling.\nI'd like to know why it happens. Is it a Marlin bug?\n\",Jacob,\"I had this issue for a long time and finally I tried a super-simple hack. Attach a testlead from bed to PSU (which is grounded). Problem solved!\n\nIn other words: The Marlin firmware may be more \"\"sensitive\"\" than the original stock firmware, but it is not really a firmware issue.\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6289,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,t. gl.,2.528907649931287,4.026415726631651,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,How is the E argument calculated for a given G1 command?,\"I'm working on building a tool to generate G-code (a simpler slicer), and I'm trying to calculate how much filament should be extruded per movement.\n\nIs there a standard calculation for this? Something like:\n\nlayer height * flow % * extruder diameter * distance \n\n\nHow does Ultimaker Cura calculate this?\n\",0scar,\"Basically, all movements are (small) straight lines, the volume of a straight line is easily calculated as you already guessed.\n\nTo calculate the volume to be extruded you multiply the following parameters:\n\n\nthe layer height (h)\nflow modifier (e.g. as pertectage) (SF)\nextruder nozzle diameter (d)\ndistance of the straight line (l)\n\n\nWith this volume you can calculate how much filament you need to extrude. To get the length (thus the length defined by the E parameter), divide the obtained volume by surface area of your used filament by:\n\n\nπ * (filament radius)2 or alternatively π /4 * (filament diameter)2\n\n\nTo sum up, the value of E is given by:\n\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n6291,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kyle thode,2.1782824847157594,4.477523115914098,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,Anet A8 (Prusa i3) Power Supply Fuse,\"A little backstory to help you understand the situation. I put the 3D printer together and turned it on and everything seemed fine until I started printing. It didn't even get the first layer down when the screen reset and so did the print. I didn't think anything of it, I just went back and tried again, but this time right when I pressed start, the fuse blew. \n\nI have done some research on the issue and haven't had any luck besides recommendations for putting in a secondary fuse before the power supply (which I will be doing in the near future). As for now though, my plan is to just replace the power supply fuse if possible. I went to the hardware store and picked up a Bussmann T5AL/250V fuse (photo attached below) and before I put it in, I just want to make sure this is the correct fuse and I'm not going to kill the entire printer this time. \n\nPicture showing the internals of the power supply unit:\n\n\n\nPicture of the fuse I bought:\n\n\n\nAny and all help is very much appreciated because as you might expect, I'm not too happy with the printer so far.\n\",profesor79,\"The fuse rating is same as described on the board - so that shall be no issue with it.\n\nMy main concern is why the fuse is down?\n\nWas there a short-circuit? As this is mains fuse - that suggest a big-bang, so, please check carefully hot-end and bed heater connections before restarting the device, to avoid replacing another fuse.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n6291,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kyle thode,2.1782824847157594,4.477523115914098,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,Anet A8 (Prusa i3) Power Supply Fuse,\"A little backstory to help you understand the situation. I put the 3D printer together and turned it on and everything seemed fine until I started printing. It didn't even get the first layer down when the screen reset and so did the print. I didn't think anything of it, I just went back and tried again, but this time right when I pressed start, the fuse blew. \n\nI have done some research on the issue and haven't had any luck besides recommendations for putting in a secondary fuse before the power supply (which I will be doing in the near future). As for now though, my plan is to just replace the power supply fuse if possible. I went to the hardware store and picked up a Bussmann T5AL/250V fuse (photo attached below) and before I put it in, I just want to make sure this is the correct fuse and I'm not going to kill the entire printer this time. \n\nPicture showing the internals of the power supply unit:\n\n\n\nPicture of the fuse I bought:\n\n\n\nAny and all help is very much appreciated because as you might expect, I'm not too happy with the printer so far.\n\",0scar,\"To add to the answer of @profesor79 (which you absolutely need to address first (find the cause why it blew); else the fuse might blow again), you might be interested in installing fuse clamps. As @fred_dot_u mentions:\n\n\n use caution when soldering leads to the fuse that you do not de-solder\n the internal fuse from the caps\n\n\nis that if you incorrectly solder the fuse, you might de-solder the caps, soldering the clamps is easier.\n\nExample of fuse clamp:\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6293,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Peter,2.1782824847157594,3.5501321208593204,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Anet A2 3D printer suddenly will not home X and Y,\"I have been using my Anet A2 for about a year. A few problems but none that I haven't been able to resolve. Today it suddenly stopped auto homing.\n\nUsing the position commands I can advance the X and Y positively but not negatively (after I manually re-position the carriages before turning the printer on). Also the Y stepper motor makes an unusual noise and it will over advance the Y axis. This behavior was preceded by a feed fault. The print started fine but the stepper motor stopped feeding shortly after the print started. \n\nI am printing from an SD card as I always have. I changed SD cards thinking it might be a connection problem and I checked the G-code and all the commands including the E commands seem to be there. I have checked all the electrical connections - they seem to be fine.\n\nAny suggestions to solve this?\n\",profesor79,\"Please check connections to the Y stepper first.\nYou could replace cable from 'X' axis to test the connection.\n\nThe noise from stepper mostly means a disconnected pin (broken connection), an obstacle on the path (check and clean if any) and a worse-case-scenario a broken stepper driver, so you could swap steppers (just by connecting the cable) to see where is the reason. If 'Y' stepper works fine when connected to another axis slot (excluding extruder ones) then driver need a replacement. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6293,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Peter,2.1782824847157594,3.5501321208593204,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Anet A2 3D printer suddenly will not home X and Y,\"I have been using my Anet A2 for about a year. A few problems but none that I haven't been able to resolve. Today it suddenly stopped auto homing.\n\nUsing the position commands I can advance the X and Y positively but not negatively (after I manually re-position the carriages before turning the printer on). Also the Y stepper motor makes an unusual noise and it will over advance the Y axis. This behavior was preceded by a feed fault. The print started fine but the stepper motor stopped feeding shortly after the print started. \n\nI am printing from an SD card as I always have. I changed SD cards thinking it might be a connection problem and I checked the G-code and all the commands including the E commands seem to be there. I have checked all the electrical connections - they seem to be fine.\n\nAny suggestions to solve this?\n\",0scar,\"I have experienced this a few times, usually this is related to the end stops.\n\nIf your end stops are somehow triggered (e.g. short circuit or cable broken; depending on the setup), the steppers will not home (as they think they are at the limits already) and only advance forward. Please look into the end stops of X and Y. Use a multi-meter to measure them and trigger them manually.\n\nAlternatively hook up your printer to your computer with a USB cable and download a printer utility/application that can interact with the printer (e.g. Pronterface, Repetier-host, OctoPrint, etc.) and go to the terminal interface and send the M119 instruction to see the status of the end stops.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6298,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,0scar,3.0576060275493275,5.255826170004181,3.507933925167123,2.011441651225199,3.749318730431847,4.208576161768494,POM filament not sticking to the build plate?,\"In the creation of the process of printing my own bearings to reduce noise, minimize play/tolerances and size the bearings to the actual size of the application, I obtained a spool of Polyoxymethylene (POM) or also known as Acetal or Delrin. \n\n\n\nThis polymer is a thermoplastic polymer that is frequently used in engineering precision parts that require high stiffness, low friction and dimensional stability. It has been chosen for these material properties to be used as bearing material for linear guide rails.\n\nThis image shows an example of the application of customized igus® bearing that is as long as the housing part it is going to fit in:\n\n\nPrints frequently get knocked over as it does not stick well.\n\nHow do I get POM filament to stick to the build plate?\n\",0scar,\"Great material but very hard to print as it does not stick easy to the build plate as it has a low friction coefficient to grip onto the heated bed. Also, the material sets quite fast, once the filament leaves the nozzle, it soon hardens so you need to be careful with retraction and Z-hop (leaving small peaks that will be hit later by the nozzle knocking over your print). \n\nMy experience with printing this material is based on printing with an Ultimaker 3 Extended (on glass) using a modified material profile (based on Nylon). It is printed at 240 °C (+5 °C for the first layer), no usage of the part cooling fan (if you do use cooling, the layers will not adhere well), a heated bed temperature of 80 °C, and a slow printing speed of 40 mm/s (20 mm/s for the first and second layer).\n\nUltimaker 3 Extended with printed POM bearing:\n\n\n\nFirst thing I learned is to use quite large brim's (the image above shows a rather small one for this short bearing, for the longer bearings the brim size was more than doubled, e.g. 20 mm), brims enlarge the surface area so that there is more material that grabs hold of the heated bed. Also ensure to get it to stick long enough is heating the bed to 80 °C after smearing ABS juice (ABS dissolved in acetone) and spraying a PVA based spray over the dried ABS juice layer (3DLAC has been used, but other hairsprays or even gluesticks may work as well, as long as there is PVA in it). The temperature of 80 °C is chosen as this is the temperature where my PVA spray has the most tack/sticky-ness.\n\nOther solutions like heating the bed up to 110 °C using 3DLAC or specifically designed sprays for higher temperature like e.g. Dimafix did not work well for me.\n\nNote that complete infill may also give problems as filling out the whole surface area sometimes creates excess material that curls up, which is an easy target to be hit by the nozzle on the next layer. \n\nThis image shows an example of using the printed customized igus® POM bearing that is as long as the mount height:\n\n\n\nCollection of POM printed bearings:\n\n\n\nAnother application of POM bearings:\n\n\n\nCoreXY hot end carriage\n\n\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n6375,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,0scar,2.8153892694839717,6.293079290921777,4.072585167927022,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset),\"When I print large prints close to (but not exceeding) the maximum dimensions of the heated build platform on my Anet A8, the brim or skirt or the print itself is printed outside the heated bed, while there is some space left at the opposite sites. It appears as if the print is not in the center.\n\n\nWhy is the print not centered on the bed?It was centered in the slicer before generating the G-code.\nHow can I center the print to make it fit on the heated build platform?\n\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"As to why this happens, particularly with a budget printer the end-stop mountings may not be particularly precisely located, or the moving part may actuate the endstop slightly differently in each build. In my case, replacing the hot end (and thus the whole carriage) gave me an offset of some cm. With this upgrade, it was impossible to retain the stock calibration since the extruder dimensions are quite different.\n\nAs to how to fix it, the easiest way for me was to modify the 'start g-code'. This fix only applies to the particular slicer, means that what I slice for my A8 won't be centred on the work maker-club Prusa, but doesn't need me to mess about with firmware or apply a per-model update.\n\nAfter the Z-home operation, I already have a pre-extrude step. Prior to this, I set the actual position of what I want my homed point to be, using G92\n\nM82 ; absolute extrusion mode\nG28 ; home all\nG92 X17 Y-12 ; re-define origin\nG92 E0.0 ; reset extruder distance position\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6375,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,0scar,2.8153892694839717,6.293079290921777,4.072585167927022,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset),\"When I print large prints close to (but not exceeding) the maximum dimensions of the heated build platform on my Anet A8, the brim or skirt or the print itself is printed outside the heated bed, while there is some space left at the opposite sites. It appears as if the print is not in the center.\n\n\nWhy is the print not centered on the bed?It was centered in the slicer before generating the G-code.\nHow can I center the print to make it fit on the heated build platform?\n\n\",0scar,\"When centered in the slicer correctly, without offsets defined in the slicer, the printer is most probably incorrectly configured! Luckily you can do something about that! Basically, you will have to calibrate the printer for a new center.\n\nDetermine the offset first!\n\nTo quantify the offset of the center as it is known by the printer software (firmware) it is advised to print a large square that is a few percentage smaller than the maximum size of the bed. E.g. you can create a square hull at e.g. 90 % of the dimensions of the bed (parametric designs are very useful for this purpose, see e.g. this design). There are many things (.stl models) to be found on the internet. If it includes a cross, even better as some platforms have a mark in the center of the bed.\n\nExample of a bed center calibration model\n\n\nOnce printed, measure the distance from every edge from the build platform to the printed square. If you fail to print the square, please check the level of the platform; this is also an excellent test for the level of your bed!\nThe measurements should give you a notion of the offset of the bed. E.g. for the X-axis you measure a distance of 12 mm on the left and 8 mm on the right (when facing the printer) you can easily deduce that the center is (12 - 8)/2 = 2 mm to the right (positive X direction). This implies that the printer manufacturer has done a lousy job by delivering you a printer with an offset bed; better said incorrectly configured in their firmware. Note this is not uncommon!\n\nHow to fix this!\n\nOnce you quantified the offset, you want to be sure that your next print prints in the middle of the bed. How to proceed? Basically there are a couple of solutions you can use, each with its own advantages and disadvantages.\n 1. A simple solution (i.e. if the printer support this) is to adjust the position of the endstops. Alternatively you can print alternate endstop holders to match the position change as measured from the calibration print.\n\n\nAnother simple and popular solution is applying an offset in the slicer. You could do that in the printer options some of the available slicers. If such options are not available, you could add G-code commands in the start code to create the offset (e.g. G1 X-2 moves to the left and G92 X0 resets the X origin). Note that this is a quick fix and should be applied wisely. The printer does not know where the actual center is! You merely changed if after the homing sequence. Exchanging .gcode with fellow enthusiasts with the same printer may have adverse effects.\n\n\nA far better solution is to fix the center in the firmware so that the printer knows the actual center. This requires some extra effort by uploading firmware (files including configuration settings) to the printer or send G-code commands. The latter option will be discussed first.\n\n\nA prerequisite of this method is that it requires the G-code command [M206](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M206:_Offset_axes) to be supported by your firmware; note that not all 3D printer firmware solutions are able to use this G-code command for axes offset definition. E.g. the stock Anet A8 runs a modified Repetier version that does not support M206, it would be time to upload a new firmware like e.g. Marlin Firmware making this particular printer safer as the stock firmware does not include thermal runaway protection! See question: \"\"What is Thermal Runaway Protection?\"\". To send G-code commands to a printer you have the option to hook up your computer to the printer over USB and use a 3D printer program that support sending commands to the printer (this is called a terminal; i.e. an interface to the printer). Programs like PronterFace, Repetier-Host, OctoPrint, and probably many more have such an interface. A simple alternative that works also is creating a text file (with .gcode extension) with the commands on separate lines and executing the \"\"print\"\". The following codes need to be sent: M206 e.g. M206 X-2 Y2 (move center left and to the back, note to use integer values, float values are not allowed!) and store this new center with M500.\n\n\nThe final, best solution is to set it fixed in the firmware. This requires an upload of a more recent configured version of an applicable firmware. See e.g. question: \"\"How to upload firmware to reprap printer?\"\". Note that there are different methods to upload a firmware to the board, it is best to search the internet for the applicable method for your board.\n\n\nTo do that you will have to be comfortable with computer software and tools to build source files and upload binary code to the printer. This depends on the type of firmware you choose and therefore cannot be described for each firmware in detail. Various sources on the internet describe this process. Generally speaking, it requires you to set the bed and offset values/positions correctly. For Marlin Firmware this comes down to changing the settings in the configuration file, this is similar in other firmware software solutions:\n\n\n\n// The size of the print bed\n#define X_BED_SIZE 220\n#define Y_BED_SIZE 220\n\n// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.\n#define X_MIN_POS -35 ; used to be -33, so 2 mm shift to left now\n#define Y_MIN_POS -8 ; used to be -10, so 2 mm shift to the back\n#define Z_MIN_POS 0\n#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE\n#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE\n#define Z_MAX_POS 240\n\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n6394,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,0scar,2.528907649931287,4.0987127413481135,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,How to calculate linear Y rod length for a larger replacement bed?,\"I have an Anet A8 which I want to convert to an aluminium frame printer like the AM8 (rebuild of Anet A8 parts):\n\n      \n\nThis should give a much more stiff frame with respect to the acrylic frame to aid in a better print quality.\n\nSince the bed (220 x 220 mm) has a slight warp, I want to use a larger build platform (200 mm x 300 mm) I have laying around. My plan is to use the 300 mm in the Y direction. \n\n\nKnowing the maximum outer distance of the current Y bearings to be 105 mm, is that too short for such a large bed?\nHow do I calculate the length of the Y axis rods? (especially if you take another distance than 105 mm)\n\n\",0scar,\"Basically, your setup is the following:\n\n\n\nThe overhang of the bed, assuming the bearings are in the center, equals (300-105)/2 = 97.5 mm on each side. So the distance from the leftmost bearing face (when bed is at y = 0 mm) to the center of the Y rods assembly equals 300 - 97.5 = 202.5 mm. Knowing this distance for the other side of the center to the right when y = 300 mm is the same, the minimum length of the rod will therefore be 2 x 202.5 = 405 mm which equals the addition of the bed length and the outer bearing distance 300 + 105 = 405 mm. \n\nPlease note this excludes extra length for e.g. a limit switch, and some extra space around the bed. Basically the extra length of the bed 300 - 220 = 80 mm needs to attributed to each side of the bed, so 40 mm on each side extra.\n\nFor a 220 x 220 mm bed, the minimum length would be 2 x (220 - (220 - 105)/2) = 325 mm. When I measure the rods between the acrylic flanges it measures about 365 mm, about 40 mm extra for clearance around the bed (20 mm on each side).\n\nThe overhang for the 300 mm bed is not that much, and a construction under the heated plate will be used to fasten the bed at the corners, as long as that construction is not to flimsy, the current distance will be alright. For other distances you should change the value of 105 in the formulas above. E.g. for an outer flange distance for the bearings of 120 mm, you would require rods of at least 420 mm.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n6483,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,0scar,3.267423727073639,5.279754644617479,4.533938825782293,2.011441651225199,3.929104701733314,4.410384278773418,How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer?,\"For my DIY coreXY printer I use 2.85 mm filament that is fed into an E3D clone hotend using a Bowden tube and a custom designed extruder with belt reduction centered around an Aluminium Bulldog extruder with an MK8 extruder gear. The reduction is necessary to create more torque to feed the filament correctly to prevent skipping and filament slipping and grinding.\n\nThe prints show under-extrusion (e.g. shell lines and bottom layer lines not or barely touching).\n\nHow can I calibrate my extruder to extrude just enough filament?\n\",0scar,\"Basic process\n\n\n To calibrate the extruder you would need to verify that the\n requested amount of filament is actually what is being moved by the extruder.\n\n\n\n\nStructural or temporary problem\n\nA first thing to check when under or over-extrusion is encountered for a fresh spool of filament on a normally good working printer is to check the diameter of the filament with a caliper (see image below) and change this value accordingly in the slicer software of your choice and make a test print. If the problem persists or is present from the start of your purchase or build, please proceed. Note that there are two ways to change the extrusion, a simple solution is changing the extrusion multiplier in the slicer software, the better one is to fix the extrusion rate in the firmware.\n\nPlease note that you should measure the filament diameter at several positions\n\n\n3D printer\n\nThere is a difference between DIY and commercial printers. Usually a commercial printer of decent quality rarely needs to be adjusted (as this is the job of the manufacturer). But cheap, commercial clones of well known printers, may need adjusting. Depending on the ability to change the settings of the software/firmware (closed or open source, or type of firmware), the user may (or may not) be allowed to change the values through configuration files or G-code commands.\n\nFor DIY printers, the builder is responsible for the printer as a whole and thus entrusted with the software/firmware setup of the printer controller board. The chosen printer firmware and its configuration should be done based on the printer layout and used hardware (also electronics like stepper drivers, remember the micro steps setting) which e.g. determines the amount of steps that are required to move an axis a certain amount of millimeters (steps/mm). This also applies to the extruder stepper. To start with a value of steps per mm, you could search the internet for your extruder type and recalculate the steps/mm roughly keeping your specifically used micro step value of the used stepper driver (which is set by dip switches or jumper caps an the printer board) in mind. With this basic setting you will be able to do a test.\n\n\nCalibrate extruder (hot or cold)\n\nWhen you have a printer, or build a printer and uploaded a rough setting for the extruder steps per mm, please test the amount of extruded filament. It is customary to mark the filament with respect to a certain reference point, then extrude e.g. 100 mm, and then check the distance the mark on the filament has traveled. The distance should be 100 mm, if not, you should change the value of the steps/mm in the firmware. To extrude 100 mm you will need to send instructions to your printer over USB connection using a terminal or graphical user interface typically found in freeware applications as Pronterface, Repetier-Host, OctoPrint, etc. or by creating .gcode text files with specific instructions and load the models through the menu of the printer from e.g. SD-card.\n\nThe G-code G1 E100 F100 commands the extruder stepper to move 100 mm in 100 mm per minute (please lookup if these G-codes are supported by your firmware!). Be sure that you have preheated the nozzle prior to extruding, many firmware's have built in protection to disallow extrusion below a certain temperature of the nozzle. For SD-card printing, e.g. for PLA you should preheat the nozzle to e.g. 195 °C with M109 S195 and as such must be placed before the actual extrusion command.\n\nIf the measured distance is different than the instructed length, a simple calculation will determine your follow up actions. E.g. if the instructed length of 100 mm is in reality 95 mm, the extruder should extrude (100 - 95) / 95) * 100 = 5.2 % more, or similarly said, the extrusion needs to be multiplied by 1.052. This could be applied in the slicer, but when this is a structural problem you should fix this in the firmware itself. This can be done by adjusting the printer configuration file and uploading new firmware (and settings) or for some printer firmware solutions use the same method as previously used to instruct to extrude filament. The G-code for setting the extruder steps in Marlin firmware is M92 if done with codes. If the original value (can be obtained with the command M503) is e.g. 400 steps per mm, the value should be changed to 100/95 * 400 = 421 steps/mm. The command M92 E421 will set the new value which can be saved to memory (so that it is available after a printer power off/on cycle) using M500.\n\nWhen the configuration file approach is used, the following line in the configuration:\n\n/**\n * Default Axis Steps Per Unit (steps/mm)\n * Override with M92\n * X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]\n */\n#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 100, 100, 200, 400 }\n\nneeds to be adjusted to:\n\n#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 100, 100, 200, 421 }\n\nYou can do this a few times to fine tune the extrusion process.\n\nFor people that have a Bowden setup and firmware that supports altering the minimum extrusion temperature, you could disconnect the Bowden tube to ignore the hotend heat up by temporarily disabling the cold extrusion limit (M302 will display the current value) with M302 S0. After calibration please remember to set it back, e.g. M302 S170.\n\nNow you printer extruder is tuned and should extrude the exact amount as instructed.\n\n\nFine tuning\n\nAlthough the extruder may now be correctly tuned to extrude exactly the amount as instructed, the slicer may have a different view. Be sure to set the slicer extrusion multiplier to 1.0 when fine tuning the extruder/slicer combination. The ultimate fine tuning starts with printing an object with zero bottom and top layers and a single perimeter with a fine layer height (0.1 or 0.15 mm). \n\nMeasure the thickness of the wall and adjust your slicer extrusion multiplier accordingly. The rationale behind this is that the extrusion of a hot polymer through a nozzle suffers from an effect called die swell where the extruded polymer diameter is larger than the nozzle diameter (see figure below); decreasing the multiplier counteracts this effect.\n\nNow your extruder and slicer should be optimally fine-tuned!\n\",3.367452517504837,2.0769199823829045\n6511,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,0scar,3.267423727073639,4.665972459392403,0.0,3.1880595895805834,4.091740895605862,4.410384278773418,Why is PEEK filament so expensive?,\"High performance polymers are becoming available for specific applications.\n\nOne of such materials is PEEK (PolyEther Ether Ketone), a thermoplastic polymer in the polyaryletherketone (PAEK) family. PEEK competes with certain Aluminium alloys but is half the weight of Aluminium. For aerospace application this sounds very promising!\n\nNASA has shown that printing these types of polymers is feasible using low-cost, open source hardware.\n\nDoes anybody know why the prices of PEEK are so high?\n\nDepending on the supplier/manufacturer you're looking at about 700 - 900 Euro per kg.\n\n\n\",amra,\"My assumptions about PEEK filament price are:\n\n\nRaw material is more expensive. Compare price of ABS with PEEK pellets.\nDemand is much lower. There are not many printers able to print peek. If you manufacture PEEK filament you have to store a filament batch for longer time. Manufacturer has to calculate into price storage space, material degradation, ...\nFilament machine tuning. You have to tune filament extrude machine for PEEK, which takes time because it's a totally different plastic. Maybe there is a cleanup needed after finishing a batch and switching to another material.\nWorking conditions. PEEK is quite smelly and I am not sure if you have to improve work conditions like better ventilation. \nResearch costs. You have to distribute research costs to a filament production where demand is low. \n\n\",3.5068404193471867,2.0769199823829045\n6511,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,0scar,3.267423727073639,4.665972459392403,0.0,3.1880595895805834,4.091740895605862,4.410384278773418,Why is PEEK filament so expensive?,\"High performance polymers are becoming available for specific applications.\n\nOne of such materials is PEEK (PolyEther Ether Ketone), a thermoplastic polymer in the polyaryletherketone (PAEK) family. PEEK competes with certain Aluminium alloys but is half the weight of Aluminium. For aerospace application this sounds very promising!\n\nNASA has shown that printing these types of polymers is feasible using low-cost, open source hardware.\n\nDoes anybody know why the prices of PEEK are so high?\n\nDepending on the supplier/manufacturer you're looking at about 700 - 900 Euro per kg.\n\n\n\",typo,\"Patents still seem to play a role as well.\n\nI was curious about this question and did a bit of research: If you filter the U.S. patents after 2010 mentioning PEEK and its various applications and improvements, you still get roughly 10,000 patents. Those are not all primarily patents for PEEK, but still.\n\nEven Victrex PLC, formerly named Imperial Chemical Industries, who filed the first patent for PEEK back in 1978, had a patent published in 2016 for a new PEEK production procedure:\n\n\n The process can be used to produce high quality, relatively light\n coloured polymers having a lower Tm than those produced using a\n standard PEEK process.\n\n\",3.2133663407215876,0.0\n6778,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,0scar,2.528907649931287,4.394816258951926,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,Can G-code scripts be run automatically on inserting an SD card when using Marlin Firmware?,\"When running Marlin Firmware, is it possible to run G-code scripts/series of commands automatically when you insert the SD card?\n\n\n\nI'm running Marlin on a 3D printer board using an ATmega 2560 based board with a reprap discount LCD controller with an SD card slot. I would like to do this without the need to add another computer/board, so native from the board running the Marlin Firmware.\n\",amra,\"I don't know what you would like to achieve.\n\nAs @typo mentioned there is similar functionality which triggers at printer startup: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/wiki/Autostart\n\nI found in Marlin's source code that you can enable that autostart feature to be triggered from menu. Just enable MENU_ADDAUTOSTART in Configuration_adv.h. \n\nIf you really need a g-code that start after sd-card insert then you have to adjust the marlin source code on your own. I suggest to alter file cardreader.cpp. There you have to trigger the autostart procedure after a sd-card is inserted.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6778,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,0scar,2.528907649931287,4.394816258951926,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,Can G-code scripts be run automatically on inserting an SD card when using Marlin Firmware?,\"When running Marlin Firmware, is it possible to run G-code scripts/series of commands automatically when you insert the SD card?\n\n\n\nI'm running Marlin on a 3D printer board using an ATmega 2560 based board with a reprap discount LCD controller with an SD card slot. I would like to do this without the need to add another computer/board, so native from the board running the Marlin Firmware.\n\",Greenonline,\"I am not entirely sure if this is what you are after, or if it will work, but from this post on Printing From SD Card when printer is turned On\n\n\n While an LCD controller is not needed for auto#.g to work, if you have an LCD controller you can use the MENU_ADDAUTOSTART option to add a menu command that will run the auto0.g, auto1.g, auto2.g whenever you want.\n\n\nThis (final) post ended up closing the thread so it appears to answer the OP's question - however, whether it will answer your question is another matter.\n\n\n\nThis post, on the Marlin forum, replicates your question and asks about purely insertion of an SD card on a printer which is already powered on. \n\nA reply was received and apparently it should be possible by making a code change in ultralcd.ccp:\n\n\n It does not seem like an auto print, when inserting a SD-card, is to\n be found in the current program code of Marlin.\n \n You might consider making a feature request here: [github.com]\n \n I do not think that it would require much work to implement a\n \"\"card.autoprintfile()\"\" function in Marlin. It seems to me that a call\n to such a function could happen at line 5172 right after:\n\nelse\nLCD_MESSAGEPGM(MSG_SD_INSERTED);\n\n \n in the file ultralcd.ccp\n\n\nA subsequent feature request has been made on Marlin's GitHub, see [FR] Can G-code scripts be run automatically on inserting an SD card when using Marlin Firmware?\n\nHowever, from this reply, it appears that a feature request is already pending:\n\n\n I'm not in favor of this as a general feature. We already have a\n feature request to be able to run custom G-code in response to various\n events, with SD card insertion being one of those events. Would that\n feature serve your needs?\n\n\nHowever, as yet, I do not have a link to this other feature request. Will update as and when.\n\n\n\nAs an aside, in might be worth mentioning that the SDFat related code could be the place to code this in, see if SD card removed, how to flag and restart?, although after looking at the Marlin codebase, in particular SdFatUtils.cpp, this would appear to be a red herring.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n6959,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,0scar,1.0891412423578797,5.306995672326634,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,3DTouch sensor fails after probe deployment and triggering,\"I'm using a 3DTouch sensor (from Geeetech) on a self-build CoreXY printer (HyperCube Evolution). The sensor worked perfectly until not being used for a month.\n\nThe symptoms are that it fails to deploy the pin on the second probe deployment so basically it fails after the first probe is triggered by the raised platform.\n\nOn homing Z (not only for G28 or \"\"home all\"\" but also for G28 Z to \"\"home Z axis\"\") and goes into some sort of a fail-safe mode where the LED keeps flashing. Sometimes it does deploy and finishes the homing instructions and continues to the G29 instruction (note that double probing #define MULTIPLE_PROBING 2 is enabled in the Marlin 1.1.8 firmware) and show similar symptoms as described above for the G28 command. Note that failing to deploy the probe sometimes leads to a rising build platform that does not stop, other times some fail safe kicks in and the bed lowers and aborts the print.\n\nTo lift the fail-safe condition, a reset of the sensor is required (this can be done through the LCD or by command M280 P0 S160).\n\nWhat I have done to solve the problem is to isolate the wires from the 3D touch sensor as I was under the impression that this was related to electromagnetic interference (therefore when the sensor is probing, the bed and heater cartridge are not powered momentarily), but that did not help. \n\nAny suggestions and solutions to get it working again are appreciated.\n\",0scar,\"After troubleshooting I have managed to fix the sensor problems. \n\n(Please take note of the update at the end of the answer below as the problem started again shortly after the so-called fix...)\n\nDigging into several posts I found this post that hints to a solution:\n\n\n\nAfter readjusting, the sensor worked and I was able to produce a print, but the next day it failed again... What I found is that the bed and extruder are NOT shut off while probing although that should have been enabled in Marlin 1.1.8. I assumed that this de-powering is only during the actual probe lowering, so very short. So I figured that this might be an EMI problem. In a last resort I updated to Marlin 1.1.9 which has the functionality to shut the power off for heater and bed and everything now seems to work perfectly. I now see that the de-powering is a bit longer and in fact the extruder temperature drops slightly, this has never been seen with the previous firmware version.\n\n\n\nUpdate:\nNot long after the \"\"update\"\"/\"\"fix\"\" the problem manifested itself again... Further troubleshooting revealed that it was a bad connection of the connectors of the sensor that got temporarily \"\"fixed\"\" as the cables had been fiddled with during the firmware update.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n6968,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,0scar,3.0576060275493275,4.897529024091038,0.0,2.011441651225199,4.240216107868139,4.7596040015155525,Slicer line width vs. extrusion multiplier for layer adhesion?,\"My question would like to address what would be better for adhesion and general quality and possibly strength: either increase the slicer line width option or increase the slicer extrusion multiplier for layer to layer adhesion?\n\n\n\nThis question has a relation to \"\"Why is it conventional to set line width > nozzle diameter?\"\". This answer on that question addresses a phenomenon called die swell to explain that the extrusion width is generally larger than the nozzle diameter even if the line width in the slicer is set to the nozzle diameter. Basically, increasing the line width increases the extrusion multiplier, so why not set that directly?\n\n\n\",Trish,\"Generally speaking, both settings result in the same1: The feed rate of the filament gets adjusted. Either you set a general multiplier, or you demand a wider line which does make it set a higher multiplier hidden in the software.\n\n1 - if you don't look at any other factor that is!\n\nBut...\n\nThere is always a but, and this one is big:\n\nWhile we can work with the extrusion multiplier to get wider lines, wider lines do change another setting: it changes the distance between the lines too. Let me show you: \n\n\nIf you print 100% at 0.4 mm line width, lines are about2 0.4 mm wide at 0.4 mm distance.\nIf you print 100% at 0.5 mm line width, lines are about2 0.5 mm wide at 0.5 mm distance.\nIf you print 121% at 0.4 mm line width, lines are about2 0.5 mm wide at 0.4 mm distance.\n\n\n2 - ignoring die swell effects\n\nThe result is pretty clear: the theoretical lines do overlap, which will lead to the polymer goop getting squished and pressed around to bulge up. Luckily, that stuff usually ends in the infill on the lower layers, but it can result in very messy sides. You pretty much deliberately chose to massively overextrude! \n\nTo say it blatantly: line width changes the overall geometry of the slicing to account for the extra material getting extruded, extrusion multiplier does not.\n\nWhat is the extrusion multiplier for THEN?\n\nWell, using the extrusion multiplier can be done for many reasons, but mainly 2 are interesting:\n\n\nTroubleshooting. You can just amp it up or down to test your mechanical properties. Like if your gear ratios on the extruder are correct. Or if your print needs a thicker line to get the first layer sticking.\nDialing in Filaments. In its core, it is meant to allow to change the flow because different polymer blends might have different thermal properties. For example, the filler and paint could lead to more thermal expansion and die swell, or they could reduce it. This behavior can be tackled directly by adjusting the extrusion multiplier. This is one thing you should do when getting a new type (color&manufacturer) of filament. While some manufacturers try to keep the properties along their lines similar, some won't.\n\n\nIt might not look too obvious at first, but I once had printed a model from one roll of white PLA that came from China. Then I got my fingers on some other PLA that was transparent from the same warehouse. I tried to print the exact same .gcode with it again and got a hyper fragile object that just could get squished, every time I used it with the same settings as the white PLA. I had to increase both the extrusion multiplier and change the temperature to get the same strength as with the other PLA.\n\",3.6340916038470805,2.0769199823829045\n8153,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,0scar,2.528907649931287,5.479380893805455,3.507933925167123,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,How to set Z-probe boundary limits in firmware when using automatic bed leveling?,\"In setting up a probe for automatic bed leveling, the limits of the probing area must be entered in the firmware of a 3D printer.\n\nWhen using a sensor, how do you define the bed limits for the sensor in Marlin firmware?\n\nE.g. the Marlin configuration.h contains the following inactive statements:\n\n\n // Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).\n //#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE\n //#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n //#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE\n //#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n\n\nHow do you set the values for the constants of your custom setup? Is this generic or specific?\n\nProbe positioning is defined in the Marlin configuration as:\n\n\n * +-- BACK ---+\n * | |\n * L | (+) P | R\n * E | | I\n * F | (-) N (+) | G\n * T | | H\n * | (-) | T\n * | |\n * O-- FRONT --+\n * (0,0)\n\n\nThe probe could be placed with a positive or negative X and Y value. Considering this position, how to setup the sensor bed limits?\n\",0scar,\"There are a few questions on this topic, so a more generic solution would be informative and will prevent multiple question of others when their sensor has a slightly different location. This answer intends to cover any position with respect to the nozzle. It also does not matter what kind of sensor it is, it can be 3DTouch, BLTouch, inductive, capacitive, etc., as long as you are able to determine the offset to the nozzle (center to center).\n\nFor now, it is assumed that the nozzle can only reach the complete area of the bed, no extra space. So unless the sensor runs of the bed, the nozzle limits are used, otherwise the sensor limits the nozzle with respect to the sensor limits. This is the safest assumption and will prevent the carriage running into the end mounts. But if there is more room for travel, an additional offset may be added to the limits.\n\nFirst, determine the offset of the sensor (e.g. by measurement or taken from the information of the printable sensor bracket found many share sites on the internet; Thingiverse is a good source for such brackets).\n\nSensor Offset\n\nThe position of the sensor is set using the following constants:\n\n\n#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER [XXX] // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]\n#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER [YYY] // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]\n\n\nwhere [XXX] and [YYY] are offset values that specify the center of the sensor with respect to the nozzle. If both are positive values, the sensor is located in the back-right, if both negative, the position is front-left (as seen from the front of the machine using the definition in the Marlin configuration file). The other positions that are possible are the back-left and the front-right (one positive and one negative value).\n\nSecond, let's set the sensor area limits!\n\nSensor Area Limits\n\nIn the following images, the nozzle, the sensor and the offsets are defined by:\n\n\nThere are four possible positions of the sensor, this results in the following schematics for the sensor area limits (transparent red area):\n\n1. Sensor at the back-right:\n\n\n\nThis implies that the sensor can reach the back and the right borders, so the limits are set by:\n\n\n#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER)\n#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE)\n#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER)\n#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE)\n\n\nNote that if a minimum probe offset is defined by #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE [value] in the configuration (to account for sensor width/dimension), the bed limits are changed resulting in (where t = MIN_PROBE_EDGE):\n\n\n\nLimits are then set by:\n\n\n#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n\n\nIn the following sensor position placements, this offset for MIN_PROBE_EDGE will be accounted for.\n\n2. Sensor at the back-left:\n\n\n\nThis implies that the sensor can reach the back and the left borders (for zero MIN_PROBE_EDGE), so the limits are set by:\n\n\n#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE + X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n\n\n3. Sensor at the front-left:\n\n\n\nThis implies that the sensor can reach the front and the left borders (for zero MIN_PROBE_EDGE), so the limits are set by:\n\n\n#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE + X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE + Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n\n\n4. Sensor at the front-right:\n\n\n\nThis implies that the sensor can reach the front and the right borders (for zero MIN_PROBE_EDGE), so the limits are set by:\n\n\n#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE + Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n\n\nThis should have tackled the basics for defining the sensor area limits. It becomes a little more complicated when there is extra travel space. A very easy use of extra travel space can be found in the configuration file; e.g:\n\n\n// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.\n#define X_MIN_POS [XX]\n#define Y_MIN_POS [YY]\n\n\nwhere [XX] and [YY] are offset values from endstop to origin (orange arrows represent X_MIN_POS and Y_MIN_POS):\n\n\nResults in offset constants for a back-right probe:\n\n\n#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + X_MIN_POS + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + Y_MIN_POS + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n\n\nFor all other options, a similar addition of the homing offsets can applied.\n\nA similar addition is possible if the print head is able to travel further on the X or Y axis at the other ends of the axes.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n10573,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,0scar,2.8153892694839717,4.083098880456266,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.265283966335819,What is a printer console/terminal?,\"I read that G-code commands can be sent through a console/terminal over USB. What is a console/terminal and how do you use that?\n\",Trish,\"There are several programs that could serve as a console to connect to a printer, put let's start somewhere: the USB connection.\n\nConnection with USB\n\nWhen connecting the printer via USB for the first time, we will get a notification that some unknown item is connected. If we use windows we can learn what device it decided we now have via the device manager (Windows Key then typing in manager and Enter). It should be a COM Port as this picture shows.\n\n\n\nIn this case, we have connected to COM4. To change the COM port, we can do so via a Rightclick->properties, then the connection settings and advanced. In the new window, we can change the COM port number to anything from 1 to 256, but it is recommended to keep the number somewhat low.\n\nMake sure you run the printer's power supply and the connection via USB, as you can't use motor control commands if you have the power supply for the printer off.\n\nUsing the COM-port\n\nNow, we need a program that can use the COM port to connect to the printer. There are, as said, several out there. One such is Repetier Host, which comes with slicer and a good graphical interface. Another is Ultimaker Cura, which has the same capacities but lacks logging of all the commands exchanged. Because many are familiar with it as a slicer, I will look at it first. As a third option, I will take a look at Pronterface. \n\nCAVEAT: Only one program that actively uses the COM port may be running at the same time, as the first program accessing it will claim all uses for the COM port till it is shut down.\n\nUltimaker Cura\n\nAfter launching Ultimaker Cura, choose your printer. many printers are available as presets by now, so just import the printer you use or make a custom profile. At the moment the latest version of Cura is 4.1.0, and will look like this:\n\n\n\nAfter switching to Monitor, it will automatically connect to the Printer via the COM port, in my case 4.\n\n\n\nOnce more we test the connection via Home and then use the Send G-Code prompt, confirming lines via Enter.\n\n\n\nRepetier Host\n\nAfter running Repetier Host the first time, you need to configure your printer. Ctrl+P opens the config window for the printer. We need to know the Baud Rate of our printer, so I looked up the documentation of my Ender3, which told me 115200 is the right setting. Most printers seem to run on this setting. The other tabs decide the speeds, extruder number and limits and the bed shape. The rest isn't needed for this. My settings for the Ender3 are these:\n \n\nOk, we made our settings and saved via OK.\n\nNow, we press the Connect button on the left side of the menu: \n\n\nIt should change to the blue Disconnect button and display other parts of the print now, showing that we have connected. Note that at the bottom of the screen a log is filled with all the commands and exchanges. \n\n\n\nOn the right side, we now can choose the Tab Manual Control\n\n\nBefore sending any commands, it is a good idea to press the Home button. This also serves as an extra test to see if the printer is connected correctly. Now we can use the Prompt G-Code to send our commands. The commands will be put into the log below.\n\n\n\n\nPronterface\n\nThis is the first time that I used Pronterface. The first thing to do after downloading the Printrun package and running the Pronterface application, is to press Port, then set the right Baudrate (115200 seems to work for many machines) and press connect.\n\n\n\nThe GUI will saturate and the right log will show lots of things tested in connection. Note that in the lower right of the GUI, there is a temperature curve log, which can be very handy for troubleshooting, as it shows the change over a little time.\n\n\n\n\nBelow the log, we find the input for commands, and if we send a command, we get a log entry of it:\n\n\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n10573,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,0scar,2.8153892694839717,4.083098880456266,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.265283966335819,What is a printer console/terminal?,\"I read that G-code commands can be sent through a console/terminal over USB. What is a console/terminal and how do you use that?\n\",0scar,\"In addition to this answer, the OctoPrint 3D print server software contains a terminal which you can use to send G-code commands from a browser:\n\nOctoPrint\n\nIn the bottom string input box (under the check mark items) you put in a G-code command, which will be send to the printer when you hit the Send button. If the printer gives a reply to that command, it will be displayed in the log window above the check mark interface items.\n\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n11438,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,0scar,1.0891412423578797,2.3277042668439822,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,\"M502 will reset all configurable settings to their \"\"factory defaults\"\", which settings are those?\",\"From the M502 documentation page can be read that M502:\n\n\n Reset all configurable settings to their factory defaults.\n\n\nPlease note that this phrasing from the manual has been used in the question title!\n\n\n To also reset settings in EEPROM, follow with M500.\n\n\nNote that:\n\n\n This command can be used even if EEPROM_SETTINGS is disabled.\n\n\nThe question is what is the definition of \"\"all configurable settings\"\"?\n\nAre these the settings that are displayed with M503, or are there hidden settings?\n\",Trish,\"Technically, the description as \"\"factory settings\"\" is misguiding, as the settings called up are much better described as \"\"firmware defined settings\"\". But since Firmware upgrades usually are rare and far between, these settings can be considered \"\"factory\"\" for the usual user, even as we always urge users to test if their firmware has TRP enabled and upgrade if not so. \n\nDepending on the firmware, this usually means the settings described in this answer, but it could also be more narrow or extend to different and custom settings inside the firmware. Marlin, when it uses EEPROM_SETTINGS, uses Configurations.h and the additional Configurations_adv.h to define what the factory settings are.\n\nFor example in this question the firmware defined the additional settings in Configuration_adv.h. Installing firmware does not by itself alter the EEPROM, so these settings needed to be seeded into SRAM via M502 and then saved into EEPROM via M500. \n\nThe remaining commands in the M50X series are obviously M501 and M503. M501 overwrites the SRAM settings with those from the EEPROM, useful if you toy with the SRAM settings to troubleshoot or play with offsets in a somewhat safe manner. M503 in turn reports all settings currently in the SRAM, which can be changed during running. Most of these settings can be stored into the EEPROM, if EEPROM_SETTINGS is enabled, but they don't necessarily have to come from the EEPROM at the moment, as they can be altered due to a lot of reasons. Your G-code to print could call for example G20 and M149 K just to mess with you by swapping to Inches and Kelvin, but that would be easily fixable by recalling M501. This following M503 output was given as an example by Sebastian.expert:\n\nG21 ; Units in mm\nM149 C ; Units in Celsius\nFilament settings: Disabled\nM200 D1.75\nM200 D0\nSteps per unit:\nM92 X100.00 Y100.00 Z398.70 E100.00\nMaximum feedrates (units/s):\nM203 X400.00 Y400.00 Z8.00 E50.00\nMaximum Acceleration (units/s2):\nM201 X1000 Y1000 Z100 E10000\nAcceleration (units/s2): P R T\nM204 P400.00 R1000.00 T1000.00\nAdvanced: S T B X Z E\nM205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X10.00 Y10.00 Z0.30 E5.00\nHome offset:\nM206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00\nAuto Bed Leveling:\nM420 S1 Z0.00\nMaterial heatup parameters:\nM145 S0 H195 B55 F0\nM145 S1 H205 B60 F0\nPID settings:\nM301 P52.25 I5.60 D122.00\nZ-Probe Offset (mm):\nM851 Z-2.41\n\n\nNote that with a console or terminal, you could sometimes alter EEPROM settings directly via a UI. Among the terminals I know to have this ability is Repetier Host.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11438,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,0scar,1.0891412423578797,2.3277042668439822,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,\"M502 will reset all configurable settings to their \"\"factory defaults\"\", which settings are those?\",\"From the M502 documentation page can be read that M502:\n\n\n Reset all configurable settings to their factory defaults.\n\n\nPlease note that this phrasing from the manual has been used in the question title!\n\n\n To also reset settings in EEPROM, follow with M500.\n\n\nNote that:\n\n\n This command can be used even if EEPROM_SETTINGS is disabled.\n\n\nThe question is what is the definition of \"\"all configurable settings\"\"?\n\nAre these the settings that are displayed with M503, or are there hidden settings?\n\",towe,\"What Marlin does when M502 is called is defined in the configuration_store.cpp file.\n\nIt resets:\n\n\nMax acceleration\nSteps per mm\nMax feedrate / speed\nMin segment time\nAcceleration (Normal, Retract, Travel)\nMin feedrate\nMin travel feedrate\nJerk settings\nJunction deviation\nHome and SCARA offsets\nHot end offsets\nFilament runout sensor distance\nTool change parameters (Swap length, extra prime, prime speed, retract speed, Park \npositions, Z raise)\nBacklash correction distances and smoothing parameters\nExtensible UI\nMagnetic parking extruder settings\nABL (fade height, stored points, nozzle offset, servo angles\nDelta calibration data (Height, Endstop offset, radius, rod length, segments per \nsecond, calibration radius, trim angle)\nDual / triple endstop adjustments\nPreheat parameters\nPID parameters\nself-defined thermistors\nLCD contrast\nPower loss recovery\nFirmware retraction\nFilament diameter (for volumetric extrusion)\nEndstops (if disabled)\nStepper drivers\nLinear advance parameters\nMotor currents (digipot)\nCNC coordinate system (if selected)\nSkew correction parameters\nAdvance pause filament change lengths\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6306,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Apollyon,2.8153892694839717,4.497924819069691,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,\"Can 3D printers, such as a TronXY X1, handle 24/7 projects?\",\"I have an incoming project and the only 3D printer available to me is the TronXY X1. \n\nSo the question is: Can it handle at least four days of continuous load or should I search for an alternate solution? \n\nI don't want to damage (my only) 3D printer for this project.\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"The answer is yes, with a little of extra care maintaining your hardware cold as possible, when I started to print I mounted some PC fans where I notice that the heat will be a problem. For my printer I placed one small fan to Z motors and other one pointing to the power source connectors; I could print for 2 weeks easily. I´m using a PC power source, so this power supply has his own fan.\nNow I've calibrated the Z motors current, so now keeps a low temperature, the power connectors were soldered instead using the loose connectors, so now I'm using a fan for the whole shield just for extra caution.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6306,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Apollyon,2.8153892694839717,4.497924819069691,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,\"Can 3D printers, such as a TronXY X1, handle 24/7 projects?\",\"I have an incoming project and the only 3D printer available to me is the TronXY X1. \n\nSo the question is: Can it handle at least four days of continuous load or should I search for an alternate solution? \n\nI don't want to damage (my only) 3D printer for this project.\n\",Greenonline,\"I know that this is a bit wishy-washy but some can, some can't.\n\nThe TronXY has a bit of an issue with the power supply to start with. The power brick is a (reportedly) bit suspect, for long jobs, see my answer to the question, Ramps 1.4 with a power brick.\n\nIt could be worth upgrading the power supply to a higher current rated PSU (20 A - 35 A), with an aluminium enclosure, i.e. those PSUs which are marketed as LED power supplies, such as this, Tronxy 3D printer accessoires power supply 240W AC110/220V DC 12V 20A for 3D print DIY kit part on AliExpress. \n\nThen you can add your heatbed (that you refer to in your other question), without worrying.\n\nIt all depends on how critical your 24/7 project is. Is it a serious production run or just a hobby-like project that is a bit of a fun endurance test? How important is it that the print run goes without a hitch? Would a power supply failure mid-print be catastrophic or easily shrugged off? Would the delay incurred by trying to find a replacement power brick actually matter that much?\n\nA simple analogy would be driving from Germany to Mauritania across the Western Sahara, with some serious, and urgent medical supplies. You could either either buy a well maintained, and carefully run in, Mercedes, which will most likely last the entire journey and then some, or you could buy a clapped out old Lada, with 500000 km on the clock, with the vain hope of getting there. The Mercedes would seem to be the better option.\n\nHowever, if you are delivering a Dundee cake for an Aunt, which is neither time critical nor particularly important and you aren't even sure that your Aunt will be at home when you get there, then maybe the Lada will suffice. \n\nInto which category does your 24/7 print project fall in? It sounds like the former.\n\nApart from the power supply, i.e. w.r.t. the stepper motors and hotend, unfortunately, I don't know the answer and can not answer your question.\n\",0.0,0.0\n6307,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Apollyon,2.1782824847157594,3.4985313852019835,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Artefacts when printing parallel to X axis,\"If you can help me with troubleshooting the artefact shown in the attached photo that would be great. It only happens when I print the Benchy parallel to the X axis and when I print parallel to Y axis it prints just fine.\n\nNotes:\n\n\n3D printer: TronXY X1\nFilament: PLA\nExtruder temp: 195°C, 200°C, 205°C - doesn't matter same results.\nSlicer: Ideamaker\n\n\n\n\",Trish,\"I have a TronXY X1 myself. This kind of artifacts appear along the X-Axis as it is a cantilever design - and if not properly secured, will start to osctilate when moving sharply. This can be fixed in several ways:\n\n\nprint slower. By making the movement changes less abrupt, the oscilation can be reduced.\nstiffen the X on the Z. Often, the X1 has a somewhat wobbly X-Axis. To fix this, someone calling themselves FabianFriethjoph did design a 'bracket' that is intended to keep the wheels aligned and under a little tension. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2275654\n\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n6326,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,rjm27trekkie,1.726248027126092,4.228048319727794,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Gaps in Cura's Slicing for Monoprice Select Mini V2,\"Why does this happen (circled in red), and how can I fix it? It is making my prints come out horrible.\n\nNot shown in the picture, but the option \"\"Coasting\"\" was Enabled:\n\n\nCoasting Volume 0.064 mm3\nMinimum Volume Before Coasting: 0.8\nCoasting Speed 90%\n\n\n\n\n\n\",Trish,\"I have had a similar thing happen when slicing a large piece that has - in real life - walls of about 2 cm. By scaling it down to 1.5%, this become less than the wall thickness, and the wall was simply omitted by CURA.\n\nIn my experience, a model showing gaps can have in these locations a thickness less than 1 wall.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6326,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,rjm27trekkie,1.726248027126092,4.228048319727794,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Gaps in Cura's Slicing for Monoprice Select Mini V2,\"Why does this happen (circled in red), and how can I fix it? It is making my prints come out horrible.\n\nNot shown in the picture, but the option \"\"Coasting\"\" was Enabled:\n\n\nCoasting Volume 0.064 mm3\nMinimum Volume Before Coasting: 0.8\nCoasting Speed 90%\n\n\n\n\n\n\",0scar,\"If you enable the option \"\"Coasting\"\", the extruder will follow the extrusion path at the end of switching to the next layer or the next section, but will not deposit any material as it uses the build up pressure in the nozzle to deposit the final bits. This shows up in your G-code representation by empty (non-depositing) gaps (in reality, when fine-tuned correctly, will be filled).\n\nE.g. sliced without \"\"Coasting\"\" enabled:\n\n\nE.g. sliced with \"\"Coasting\"\" enabled:\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6331,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jer,2.8153892694839717,3.802970230153259,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.488653845767225,Heatbed with zones?,\"Waiting for a heatbed to get up to 85˚C for a relatively small part got me wondering why beds aren't hardware/G-code configurable for what area is heated? I'm sure it would be an increase in parts costs and electronics, but it seems that being able to just heat an area a little larger than the part(s) being built would save in time and energy use.\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"The heated bed is a reasonably good thermal conductor, so the difference in energy between heating all or 10% of the bed (assuming a 3x3 grid split 1 and 8) isn't going to be that significant. \n\nIn terms of heating speed, 200W across the whole bed will heat it faster than 40W applied to the centre square, and will also be less likely to cause warming or heat cycling effects (unless PSU regulation is a problem).\n\nIf the bed is much larger, or has thermally separated zones, then there might be some justification in the increased control complexity.\n\nAs an example, although glass has a thermal conductivity around 1% of a metal, it is still 30x better conducting than air. Conductivity towards the unheated areas of even a solid glass bed will roughly match the surface loss - so best case you would reduce losses to somewhere 20%-50% of what heating the whole bed might cost (assuming the same 3x3 grid).\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6331,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jer,2.8153892694839717,3.802970230153259,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.488653845767225,Heatbed with zones?,\"Waiting for a heatbed to get up to 85˚C for a relatively small part got me wondering why beds aren't hardware/G-code configurable for what area is heated? I'm sure it would be an increase in parts costs and electronics, but it seems that being able to just heat an area a little larger than the part(s) being built would save in time and energy use.\n\",0scar,\"I've wondered that myself a while ago and fact is that such beds or silicone heating pads do exist. Usually these are quite large (and expensive) and usually referred to as \"\"dual zone heat beds/pads\"\".\n\nAs far as energy consumption; less area to heat is faster heat up times (depending on the control) and less energy consumed. For small prints this may be beneficial. The price of such beds are very high, so to break even you would have to print a lot. An alternative to buying would be to etch your own bed.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6338,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,court3nay,1.726248027126092,3.678721662112462,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.488653845767225,Interesting project for a child,\"A member of our hackspace wants to get their 8- and 11- year old kids1 excited about 3D-printing and CNC cutting and makering in general. We have a weekly open training where people can design and print/CNC/laser an item of their choice like a dogboned box or a two-piece sword and hilt, or a name tag, or whatever. I need a few ideas prepared so we don't spend half our lesson on Thingiverse or in Fusion (more like a quarter)! I'm not a parent and my youngest friend is probably in their twenties.\n\nWhat we have: \n\n\na full bed 1200x1800 mm CNC (preferred, because it's loud and fast)\nPrusa mk3\ncheapo 80W 500x300 mm laser\nFusion 360 based workflow, easy :)\nArduinos and stuff\n\n\nIdeas we've had: a minecraft creeper, done as a simple-ish box.\n\n\n1: the (girls) are not interested in my normal kids' goto, which is: swords, shields. They are interested in: minecraft, dragons, horses. _o_/\n\nedit: this is NOT an opinion-gathering post, though there may be more than one \"\"correct\"\" answer. We need specific applications of 3d printing for a young audience. This collection of answers will be useful to evangelize making to a whole new generation!\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Our local library makerspace holds summer camp for a limited number of lucky attendees, ages from 12-15 and the curriculum has a segment which appears to match your objective.\n\nIn the case of the Launch Pad Camp, the campers will be using OnShape to create a keychain/nametag with text of their choosing. It will be an unremarkable 3mm thick x 35-40 mm wide x 70-80 mm long \"\"plank\"\" with a depressed center (by 1.5mm) and raised text. The mentors of the camp expect to be able to teach these campers how to use the software to perform tasks by rote. I assisted the mentor in the process as she had no idea how to use OnShape. Neither did I, but that never slows me down.\n\nAnother aspect of her camp is that it will (or may) include using Scratch \n\n\n\nand does include using a Scratch based program called Ozoblocky to interface with Ozobots. \n\n\n\nI suggested to her that she could use BlockSCAD to create the 3D objects, as the interface is nearly identical, and in my opinion, very easy to use.\n\nNot surprisingly, BlockSCAD has a series of tutorials available on the YouTube.\n\nThe editor for BlockSCAD is browser based removing the requirement to install on every computer.\n\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6338,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,court3nay,1.726248027126092,3.678721662112462,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.488653845767225,Interesting project for a child,\"A member of our hackspace wants to get their 8- and 11- year old kids1 excited about 3D-printing and CNC cutting and makering in general. We have a weekly open training where people can design and print/CNC/laser an item of their choice like a dogboned box or a two-piece sword and hilt, or a name tag, or whatever. I need a few ideas prepared so we don't spend half our lesson on Thingiverse or in Fusion (more like a quarter)! I'm not a parent and my youngest friend is probably in their twenties.\n\nWhat we have: \n\n\na full bed 1200x1800 mm CNC (preferred, because it's loud and fast)\nPrusa mk3\ncheapo 80W 500x300 mm laser\nFusion 360 based workflow, easy :)\nArduinos and stuff\n\n\nIdeas we've had: a minecraft creeper, done as a simple-ish box.\n\n\n1: the (girls) are not interested in my normal kids' goto, which is: swords, shields. They are interested in: minecraft, dragons, horses. _o_/\n\nedit: this is NOT an opinion-gathering post, though there may be more than one \"\"correct\"\" answer. We need specific applications of 3d printing for a young audience. This collection of answers will be useful to evangelize making to a whole new generation!\n\",Greenonline,\"This question is unfortunately, not a good fit for this site, as it stands, for as you say it is opinion based. However, it is great to see that you are getting kids into a relatively new technology (yes, I know it has been around for years, but it is still seen as new to big media and the general public). \n\nMy answer doesn't provide you with any actual designs, as you asked for. However, just to add an idea or two that I have been thinking about recently, in order to engage kids:\n\n\nHave you thought about using 3D printing pens (as side projects to the main feature of the printer)? Although I'm not so sure that the fumes at such close proximity would be that great, unless using PLA. That really would show close up the additive process.\nAlso, there is a lot of useful sites to be found on google (which you have probably seen), such as:\n\n\nkidscodecs - What is 3D printing?\nAll3DP has 3D Printed Toys – 11 Ideas for Children of all Ages, but these seem to need to be purchased.\n\nAlternative applications for kids, from Best CAD Software for Kid Creators, that might be worth considering if Fusion 360 doesn't float their Benchy boat: \n\n\nSolidworks Apps for Kids,\nSketchUp \n123D Design\nTinkercad; \nLeoCAD\nLeopoly\nBlocksCAD\n3D Slash\nSome other ideas from 3dPrint.com - 3d design app for kids\n\nMaybe, as all kids seem to have iPhones, or what have you, these days, how about an App for kids upon which they can play with a design, and then print it later? Such an app would probably provide examples for them to get started with. One such app is the Toy Maker by AstroPrint - although that may require a commercial printer, I'm not sure. However, other such apps for smart phones probably are out there. \n\n\nAs for examples, there are 42 kids toys tagged on Thingiverse, such as:\n\n\nSave the last Unicorn [Game]\nCartoon Weiner Dog\nLily Bobtail (Peter Rabbit Series)\nGrand Hillar\n\n\n\n\nAlso to take from IronEagle's idea, some fidget spinners:\n\n\nFidget Spinner\nKid Sized Generic Spinner\n10mm Nut Fidget Spinner\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n6367,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lopolo,2.1782824847157594,3.742219428517731,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,3D Printer makes steps at Y axis (in some cases),\"I have bought the Tevo Tarantula 3D Printer Kit.\n\nWhen I'm printing something that I created (using Cinema 4D), the printer prints it without any problems, but, when I download something from the internet, my Y axis makes steps 1-3 mm per layer and it makes any product unusable at the end.\n\nThis is what is does. \n\n\n\nIt does every single layer, not just randomly. I don't know if I have bad configuration or something like that.\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"When you describe a problem like this, it is best to describe the effect, not what you think is the cause - particularly since others then might mis-read your description.\n\nEach layer being offset in one direction suggests that there is a problem with either the part moving on the bed (unlikely), or in the registration of one axis drifting over time.\n\nMost likely, your Y-axis is skipping steps. It could be several things:\n\n\nthe axis binding on it's runners\nthe drive belt skipping because it is loose\nthe drive belt binding because it is too tight\ntoo fast a print/travel speed\nthe print nozzle catching on the print (bed too high, no z-hop)\nnot enough drive current to the stepper motor\nstepper motor failing\nbelt drive loose on the stepper shaft\n\n\nA common 'feature' of 3d printing is that different models might emphasise one problem, but a different shape might hide it.\n\nCheck that everything is properly tightened, moves freely, and the belts are undamaged - with luck you can find the problem and it's not electrical.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n6377,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Toon,3.452496054252184,3.826347838726222,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,3.322464497796202,Printing with colorfabb XT fails after several successful layers,\"I'm printing parts for a HEVO (HyperCube Evolution CoreXY), using Colorfabb XT filament. After several successful prints. I'm having a lot of failed prints. They start off pretty well but after ~15 layers the filament starts to string and blob. \n\nPrinter details\n\nModel: RepRap i3 \nExtruder: E3D 1.75 all metal hotend.\nNozzle: .4\nPrint temp: 260°C (max. recommended).\n\n\nSteps I took to troubleshoot\n\n\nFirst I thought my nozzle was clogged. But it's not I can push the filament by hand without issues.\nLowered the speed to 35 mm/s.\nDisabled retraction / disabled part cooling.\nincreased the max temp with 10 % to ensure the filament flow\n\n\nPrinted parts that fail: \n\n\nNote: the two parts on the left are printed in one job\n\n\n\nUPDATE 26/07\nDit a few more prints with PETG to eliminate the moisture problem. Same results.\n\n\n\n\n\",Valmond,\"This looks a lot like under extrusion caused by heat creep.\n\nHeat creep is when the nozzle temperature 'creeps' up through the filament and makes it melt (a bit) and form a blob (or just widen enough to get stuck) a centimeter or two before the nozzle.\n\nThe characteristic is usually that everything works perfectly well for some quite fix amount of time, then there is severe under extrusion.\n\nSolutions:\n\n\nLower the temperature (yes, as then the heat won't creep as much!)\nAdd a fan cooling down the cooling part of the print head\n\n\nI have the same print head as you it seems (E3D 1.75 all metal) and I had heat creep when I changed the fan to a less noisy one (but also less effective).\n\",3.0411126502294303,0.0\n6377,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Toon,3.452496054252184,3.826347838726222,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,3.322464497796202,Printing with colorfabb XT fails after several successful layers,\"I'm printing parts for a HEVO (HyperCube Evolution CoreXY), using Colorfabb XT filament. After several successful prints. I'm having a lot of failed prints. They start off pretty well but after ~15 layers the filament starts to string and blob. \n\nPrinter details\n\nModel: RepRap i3 \nExtruder: E3D 1.75 all metal hotend.\nNozzle: .4\nPrint temp: 260°C (max. recommended).\n\n\nSteps I took to troubleshoot\n\n\nFirst I thought my nozzle was clogged. But it's not I can push the filament by hand without issues.\nLowered the speed to 35 mm/s.\nDisabled retraction / disabled part cooling.\nincreased the max temp with 10 % to ensure the filament flow\n\n\nPrinted parts that fail: \n\n\nNote: the two parts on the left are printed in one job\n\n\n\nUPDATE 26/07\nDit a few more prints with PETG to eliminate the moisture problem. Same results.\n\n\n\n\n\",Toon,\"I have a possible cause for my problems. XT is sensitive to moisture (hydrolytical stability) When I extruded 20mm filament manually, the string felt a bit rough. When I looked closer very tiny bubbels where visible. I baked the filament at 60°C for 2 hours.\n\nThe baked filament allowed me to print a perfect model. \n\nBut after one print the filament is again affected by moisture so I need to build a dry-box and do some more tests before I come to a conclusion. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6387,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dandavis,2.8153892694839717,4.394816258951926,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,Multiple unattended prints using extruder to sweep build plate?,\"I read something the other day about a guy who found a way to knock over completed prints with the printer head itself, then slide them to the edge of the build plate, where they fall into a box/basket. This allows printing several Eiffel Towers while you sleep for example. It doesn't work with skirts (duh), and the adhesion has to be just right not to wake up with a pile of spaghetti, but it still sounds useful.\n\nWell, now I cannot re-find the description I read; does anyone know what this process is called? Is there an easy way I can perform such an end-of-print action on my CR-10 with a cura plugin? If such a thing takes a touch of end-time custom gcode, is there a proof of concept rough draft or demo I can start tinkering with? Any more info is helpful.\n\",Valmond,\"I would advice against it, or at least have some detection for when the object won't budge:\n\n\n\nLeaving a printer unattended needs special care too (fire alarm springs to mind but not only).\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6387,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dandavis,2.8153892694839717,4.394816258951926,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,Multiple unattended prints using extruder to sweep build plate?,\"I read something the other day about a guy who found a way to knock over completed prints with the printer head itself, then slide them to the edge of the build plate, where they fall into a box/basket. This allows printing several Eiffel Towers while you sleep for example. It doesn't work with skirts (duh), and the adhesion has to be just right not to wake up with a pile of spaghetti, but it still sounds useful.\n\nWell, now I cannot re-find the description I read; does anyone know what this process is called? Is there an easy way I can perform such an end-of-print action on my CR-10 with a cura plugin? If such a thing takes a touch of end-time custom gcode, is there a proof of concept rough draft or demo I can start tinkering with? Any more info is helpful.\n\",0scar,\"You could cool down the heated bed (with e.g. [M109][1] R28) and cool down the hotend (with e.g. [M190][1] R40). This will usually release the print from the plate, perform the actions to move the head (e.g. go to the largest X, Y position G1 X{max} Y{max}, move down G1 Z10 to then move to minimum X, Y G1 X0 Y0 position such that it sweeps the print to the origin) that it knocks it into the basket and start printing again by copy pasting the whole G-code beforehand a couple of times. Note that this all depends on the product you are printing. You should at least use the end code scripts for the specific tasks to cool down, and start scripts to heat up again.\n\nYou can write a Cura plugin to implement a new GUI item to copy the G-code multiple times or create a post processing plugin.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n6398,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,meyfa,2.528907649931287,3.724670316116101,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,\"Cooling fan spins extremely fast, noisy on startup\",\"I have built a 3D printer from parts. It is using a standard 12V power supply, an Arduino Mega 2560 replica and a RAMPS 1.4 board. The hotend cooling fan is connected to the 12V-AUX pin (the one right next to the x axis stepper driver) on the RAMPS board so that it continuously receives power as long as the machine is turned on. The printer is controlled by the Marlin firmware.\n\nWhen I give power to the board, the cooling fan starts spinning with a lot of noise. It sounds like it is receiving a higher amount of current than it should. Moreover, the noise is not steady, but fluctuates slightly. After about 30 seconds, it gets slightly quieter; after about 40-50 seconds, there is a sudden break. From then on, the fan spins quietly and regularly.\n\nAccording to measurements with a multimeter, the power supply is keeping a constant and correct voltage of slightly over 12V right from the beginning. Hence, I suspect the issue is somewhere on the RAMPS board.\n\nI am worried about this being more than a problem of unpleasant noisiness. What could be the cause and is there more to worry about?\n\nYou can listen to a recording of the sound: 3D printer hotend cooling fan noise\n\nNote that I am not talking about a fan for cooling the extruded plastic, but the one sitting on the extruder heatsink.\n\n\n\nShutting down the printer (even literally unplugging the power supply) and plugging it back in does not lead to the startup noise appearing again. Only when waiting for multiple minutes before reconnecting does it happen again.\n\nThe voltage to the fan is measured to be constant. The current, on the other hand, correlates with the sounds heard. It starts at 110 - 115 mA. When the fan is quiet, it is at about 90 mA.\n\",0scar,\"Now that you have done some measurements, you could make some conclusions.\n\n\n The voltage over the fan is reported to be constant, but the current\n starts at 110-115 mA and reduces to 90 mA over time.\n\n\nWith limited knowledge of electronics you can conclude that the resistance of the fan is not constant as the resistance determines the amount of current through the fan. So the fan resistance increases over time. This could just be a manufacturing problem or characteristics of the fan. You could try to replace the fan with another fan to see if this fixes your problem.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6398,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,meyfa,2.528907649931287,3.724670316116101,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,\"Cooling fan spins extremely fast, noisy on startup\",\"I have built a 3D printer from parts. It is using a standard 12V power supply, an Arduino Mega 2560 replica and a RAMPS 1.4 board. The hotend cooling fan is connected to the 12V-AUX pin (the one right next to the x axis stepper driver) on the RAMPS board so that it continuously receives power as long as the machine is turned on. The printer is controlled by the Marlin firmware.\n\nWhen I give power to the board, the cooling fan starts spinning with a lot of noise. It sounds like it is receiving a higher amount of current than it should. Moreover, the noise is not steady, but fluctuates slightly. After about 30 seconds, it gets slightly quieter; after about 40-50 seconds, there is a sudden break. From then on, the fan spins quietly and regularly.\n\nAccording to measurements with a multimeter, the power supply is keeping a constant and correct voltage of slightly over 12V right from the beginning. Hence, I suspect the issue is somewhere on the RAMPS board.\n\nI am worried about this being more than a problem of unpleasant noisiness. What could be the cause and is there more to worry about?\n\nYou can listen to a recording of the sound: 3D printer hotend cooling fan noise\n\nNote that I am not talking about a fan for cooling the extruded plastic, but the one sitting on the extruder heatsink.\n\n\n\nShutting down the printer (even literally unplugging the power supply) and plugging it back in does not lead to the startup noise appearing again. Only when waiting for multiple minutes before reconnecting does it happen again.\n\nThe voltage to the fan is measured to be constant. The current, on the other hand, correlates with the sounds heard. It starts at 110 - 115 mA. When the fan is quiet, it is at about 90 mA.\n\",Raju yourPepe,\"I propose examining the current voltage of the motor and the arm. The fluctuation of voltage causes the noise.\n\",0.0,0.0\n6402,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kcthode,2.1782824847157594,4.977068622904195,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Anet A8 Hotbed Not Heating Correctly,\"For my Anet A8 I replaced the stock power supply 12V/20A with a eTopxizu 12V/30A, plus I added a fused 250V/10A power switch and mosfet. The issue that I am having involves the hotbed, it has no issue heating up, but it doesn't heat up past 94 degrees Celsius when I try to print using ABS (not issues so far when printing with PLA). When I originally installed the new power supply, I had the mosfet and the motherboard powered separately, but I tried powering them both with the same wire and the problem persisted. I measured the voltage coming out of the power supply and it reads 12.44V, the voltage going into the mosfet reads 12.28V, coming out of the mosfet 10.58V, and the voltage reading on the hotbed is 10.25V. If you need pictures of my wiring or anything let me know and I will update the post.\n\",0scar,\"That is actually not uncommon to happen for the Anet heated beds, many users report this. Mine was able to reach about 100 ℃ out of the box (took a while to get there), but not beyond.\n\nFor the bed to reach higher temperatures you would need to make some adjustments. You should at least insulate the bottom of the heated bed with cotton or cork to reduce the heat dissipation by half. Note to speed up heating to e.g. 110 ℃, I often insulate the top of the plate with a removable piece of cotton or cork to remove it just before leveling and printing starts. Furthermore, replace the heated bed connector and solder the bed power wires directly to the pins at the back of the connector. That connector is NOT rated for the amount of current requested by the heat bed! E.g. due to the moving bed the connector jitters which leads to sparks; you see many pictures of burned or brown connectors on the internet. While you do that please consider replacing the wires to the heat bed also to some proper gauge silicone wire, AWG 14 should be good enough.\n\n\n\nWARNING!\n\nLast thing to mention of prime importance is that the stock firmware of the Anet printers has NO thermal runaway protection! I.e. if your hot end thermistor would fall out of the nozzle block, the firmware would detect the temperature drop and will keep sending current even if it does not measure a temperature rise. This leads to an overheated nozzle and is definitely considered to be a fire hazard!\n\n\n\nEdit:\n\nThe answers to question How to increase bed temperature over 103 degrees are of great value to this question.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6407,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Aniket Pant,2.528907649931287,3.1584864133350328,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,What printer should I consider for printing microfluidic channels?,\"I am looking to purchase a 3D printer for the fabrication of microfluidics.\n\nI am looking for a printer that can print channels with less than 200 µm cross-sections, preferably, can print optically transparent and biocompatible material, and costs less than $10,000. \n\nAny ideas/recommendations? Could be any printer type (i.e. SLA, FDM, PolyJet).\n\",Aaron,\"\"\"What Printer?\"\" Let's look at your options:\n\nFDM is the cheapest route into 3D printing, and may be cheap enough to buy just as a learning tool, as many of the concepts of 3D printing are fairly universal. It will not however likely have high enough dimensional accuracy for consistent 200 µm holes, and parts are not usually considered water tight (They may be most of the time, but pinholes are somewhat common).\n\nBinderJet binder jet is the cheaper of the options for printing with powder, where basically glue is deposited onto layers of powder to solidify a part. I have personally used one to create a sand mould to cast metal into without having to create a positive with which to make the mould (ie lost wax casting). It can also be used to print ceramics or metals that are then fired in an oven into a more solid part. In general the dimensional accuracy is going to depend on not only the precision of the glue deposition, but the input powder as well. It may be possible, but I've never seen a water tight part come out of a binder jet.\n\nSLM (SLS, DMLS, generally any metal printer with a laser (even sometimes an electron beam)) Can print quite high quality parts, but a 200 µm hole is pushing into the realm of difficult to achieve. Metal printers produce parts with a fairly rough surface (compared to a machined part), which is dependent on a lot of things, but primarily the input powder size distribution. Typical SLM printers use powder anywhere from 20 - 60 µm in diameter. With very small holes, you'll have to begin wondering about the likelihood that a hole will be sealed at some point by the random surface roughness exceeding the diameter of the hole. This also translates into a path with a lot of resistance, so pushing a fluid through it will require a lot of pressure. Again, I'm not in any sort of biological field, but I'm aware Titanium is pretty bio-compatible, and that is a *fairly commonly printed alloy (the current list of alloys that are pretty easy / standard to print isn't terribly long). Finally price: you can't afford it. I work with a relatively small (though somewhat high end) SLM tool at work, and I believe the final cost went up somewhere in the neighborhood of 500k.\n\nSLA will likely be your best option. I don't have any experience with bio-compatibility (I'm a metallurgist), but there are many uv curing resin systems out there that are made for SLA printing. This is also likely the only type of system that can meet your dimensional requirements (water tight, small features, clear material, etc.) as well as your price target. Nothing can replace doing the research on your own, but this would be my choice. As for which SLA... (Note I'm fairly biased in this opinion) I'd look into Formlabs and possibly in particular their clear dental resin.\n\n*PolyJet I don't know much about this one. It seems like a cross between SLA and FDM, but it seems likely to be out due to cost.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6409,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Turkhan Badalov,1.0891412423578797,3.4776007666316793,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Why does MakerBot software shows holes in the wall of a 3d model?,\"I made a simple extrude on a sketch in Fusion 360:\n\n\n\nBut what MakerBot software shows me in the preview is\n\n\n\nCan someone explain how to make it print a smooth wall? Mesh of the model also seems to be okay. Configuration is in the high preset.\n\",0scar,\"I guess you are referring to the corner of the part facing you in the first figure, and the sliced corner on the left in the second figure and not the white lines on the wall facing you. This latter effect is called Moiré or moiré pattern which is an optical illusion created by interference.\n\nThis appears to be a slicer error or a rendering error, the walls are not finished. Furthermore from your sparse question it is noteworthy to say that you have sliced the model on a raft.\n\nWhy not print the model, it will start a raft and when you come to the part it will clearly show whether it is a slicing or a rendering problem!\n\nIf it is a rendering problem, keep continuing printing, if not, stop the print and download a most recent version of any other free available slicer tool. The most commonly used free slicer tools are Ultimaker Cura and Slic3r. Setup a printer profile and select and modify material and slicing properties to create a new G-code file for you to print. You can now compare the rendering of used new tool to your current rendering and print the model to see if the part now prints well.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n6410,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jan Vorisek,3.618048892289167,4.492157555581095,0.0,3.1880595895805834,4.376800063013361,4.208576161768494,Are parentheses allowed within a G-code comment?,\"I am wondering if this piece of G-code is valid:\n\nG0 (Some comment (Its G0 command)) Y10 Z-5\n\n\nI have tested this on my Chinese CNC machine and it strips out the comment and works flawlessly.\n\nThe machine processes this as G0Y10Z-5 which seems like the correct approach to me.\n\nI have however never seen such comment in real CNC practise.\nIt would be nice if anyone is able to test it out on their CNC/3D Printer.\n\nMany G-code simulators on the internet fail to process such a line in their parser so it makes me confused. I haven't found anything about it on RepRap Wiki or even Google.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"This is not universally valid G-code, and how it is handled depends on the implementation. You can use this style of comment on some machines, but not all.\n\nThe way parsing used to be implemented in Marlin (a very common 3D printer firmware), it would work fine unless the comment string included a X, Y, Z, E or F character. The parser simply looks for the first occurrence of X/Y/Z/E/F and then tries to parse the bit of text appearing after that character into a number. If the string cannot be parsed as a number, it defaults to 0 instead. For example,\n\n G0 (Some comment containing the character Y) Y10 Z-5\n\n\nwould be interpreted as G0 Y0 Z-5 and not as G0 Y10 Z-5, because \"\") \"\" (the string appearing after the first occurrence of \"\"Y\"\") does not parse to any valid number. Your example happens to work fine because the comment string doesn't contain any special characters.\n\nMarlin does support end-of-line comments, which should start with a semicolon and continue until the end of the line.\n\nThis is how it used to work in older Marlin versions. Newer Marlin versions have a more advanced parser, but it still would not play well with these parentheses-style comments. It is best to avoid them, as compatibility is not guaranteed.\n\",3.7511513460834345,0.0\n6410,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jan Vorisek,3.618048892289167,4.492157555581095,0.0,3.1880595895805834,4.376800063013361,4.208576161768494,Are parentheses allowed within a G-code comment?,\"I am wondering if this piece of G-code is valid:\n\nG0 (Some comment (Its G0 command)) Y10 Z-5\n\n\nI have tested this on my Chinese CNC machine and it strips out the comment and works flawlessly.\n\nThe machine processes this as G0Y10Z-5 which seems like the correct approach to me.\n\nI have however never seen such comment in real CNC practise.\nIt would be nice if anyone is able to test it out on their CNC/3D Printer.\n\nMany G-code simulators on the internet fail to process such a line in their parser so it makes me confused. I haven't found anything about it on RepRap Wiki or even Google.\n\",Jan Vorisek,\"It looks like comments inside parentheses are not allowed in numerous parsers (ie. Marlin). This seems to be true for most of the 3D printers. Classical CNC milling machines use parentheses without problems.\n\nIt should work on Prusa printers as stated in their Wiki. Unfortunately there are no words about nesting of the comments.\n\nI have however found a comment on cnczone.com forums regarding the nesting of comments within parentheses.\n\n\n Printable characters and white space inside parentheses is a comment. A left parenthesis always starts a comment. The comment ends at the first right parenthesis found thereafter.\n \n Once a left parenthesis is placed on a line, a matching right parenthesis must appear before the end of the line.\n \n Comments may not be nested; it is an error if a left parenthesis is found after the start of a comment and before the end of the comment.\n \n Here is an example of a line containing a comment: G80 M5 (stop motion)\n\n\nSource: cnczone.com\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n6418,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Zdeněk Braun,0.0,4.361759111113299,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Anet A8 display on MKS Gen L board,\"So I have read this question, Connecting (Anet A8) 2004 display to MKS GEN L. \n\nThat looked so easy, so I rewired the connectors and switched the VCC and GND pins. In the Marlin firmware I disabled the MKS GEN L display and enabled the ZONESTAR_LCD and ULTRA_LCD.\n\nYet when I run the printer, I only get the fully white rectangles. Is there anything else I have to do?\n\nI have a compilation warnings now, because the ZONESTAR_LCD redefines some of the pins that ULTRA_LCD sets, but I guess that is ok. Could it be caused by still including the U8glib library? Do I have to also remove some constant regarding this?\n\",Zdeněk Braun,\"Ok guys I got it! It really was just what is the answer in the other question (Connecting (Anet A8) 2004 display to MKS GEN L)!\n\nMy problem was: I used jumper cables and some duct tape to hold them together ... and the only issue was, that I didn't insert it enough. I got mad today and just pushed them really hard more into the AUX2 connector and it suddenly works!\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6421,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,RMF,2.1782824847157594,4.190098673268896,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.488653845767225,Z-Axis doesn't work only during printing,\"Problem: Z-Axis doesn't work during a print. It attempts to work, maybe climbs on the Z-Axis, but screws back down. It whines, too. But, Z-Axis DOES work while not printing. It doesn't matter if the bed and nozzle heating or not, if it's not printing, it works as it should. I don't know what else I can do to troubleshoot this problem.\n\nI have:\n\n\nChanged the Ramps 1.4 board twice\nSwapped drivers around, bought new drivers\nSwapped X-Axis and Z-Axis motor connections\nCleaned threaded rod.\nLeveled two Z-Axis threaded rod riders to near atomic perfection.\nChanged firmware to each of the 3 latest updates\nRemounted motor so both face same cardinal direction\nCursed\nChanged jumper configurations from 16th microstepper to 8th for more power. No dice. Fried two drivers that way.\nDialed and redial and tridialed and quaddialed the driver pots\nRecalled the Z-motors work while not printing so it isn't the driver pots\nCursed again\nScoured the web for similar issues\nLooked for G-code that might limit Z-Axis elevation\nDied a little. Just a little\n\n\nHardware:\n\n\nRepRap Guru DIY Prusa i3 V2 3D Printer Kit\nRamps 1.4\nA4988 Driver\nFirmware: \n\n\nMarin 1.1.8, \n\n\n1.1.7 (screen didn't function), \n1.1.6 (screen didn't function), \n\nRepRapGuru_Marlin_v4, \nRepRapGuru_Marlin_v2\n\n\n\nAdditional information:\n\n\nMy power supply is the original 12 V 360 W supply with the kit.\n\n\nThe 5 amp power in is 12.02 V, the 11 amp power port is 11.96 V and 12.18 V depending on which heater is on. \nThe bed measures 11.50 V and the hotend is 3.4 V\n\nWhile heating the bed and hotend I am using the LCD screen and rotary encoder to move my axes. It works as expected until printing. I have upgraded to an aluminum 12/24 V hotbed from the original PCB.\nCurrently getting Repetier. Will update.\nThe z-axis leadscrew is M5-0.8 mm\n\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"I would check the gcode you're generating to make sure it's not full of \"\"bad\"\" z-commands. \n\nFurther, I'd take any gcode file you have and manually edit it, leaving in all the initializations, heatings, zeroing, etc., and then delete everything except some z-motion commands. Run that as a test case to see what happens. \n\nI think it's extremely unlikely that the gantry has enough mass to force the z-screws to counter-rotate (lowering the gantry), and you'd see that with power off in any case. \n\nedit\n\nAs Greenonline discovered, a bad choice of lead screw might cause the behavior you're seeing. It would be a bit scary if a stock kit such as the one you bought provided high-pitch Z-screws. Better check that out! \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6421,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,RMF,2.1782824847157594,4.190098673268896,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.488653845767225,Z-Axis doesn't work only during printing,\"Problem: Z-Axis doesn't work during a print. It attempts to work, maybe climbs on the Z-Axis, but screws back down. It whines, too. But, Z-Axis DOES work while not printing. It doesn't matter if the bed and nozzle heating or not, if it's not printing, it works as it should. I don't know what else I can do to troubleshoot this problem.\n\nI have:\n\n\nChanged the Ramps 1.4 board twice\nSwapped drivers around, bought new drivers\nSwapped X-Axis and Z-Axis motor connections\nCleaned threaded rod.\nLeveled two Z-Axis threaded rod riders to near atomic perfection.\nChanged firmware to each of the 3 latest updates\nRemounted motor so both face same cardinal direction\nCursed\nChanged jumper configurations from 16th microstepper to 8th for more power. No dice. Fried two drivers that way.\nDialed and redial and tridialed and quaddialed the driver pots\nRecalled the Z-motors work while not printing so it isn't the driver pots\nCursed again\nScoured the web for similar issues\nLooked for G-code that might limit Z-Axis elevation\nDied a little. Just a little\n\n\nHardware:\n\n\nRepRap Guru DIY Prusa i3 V2 3D Printer Kit\nRamps 1.4\nA4988 Driver\nFirmware: \n\n\nMarin 1.1.8, \n\n\n1.1.7 (screen didn't function), \n1.1.6 (screen didn't function), \n\nRepRapGuru_Marlin_v4, \nRepRapGuru_Marlin_v2\n\n\n\nAdditional information:\n\n\nMy power supply is the original 12 V 360 W supply with the kit.\n\n\nThe 5 amp power in is 12.02 V, the 11 amp power port is 11.96 V and 12.18 V depending on which heater is on. \nThe bed measures 11.50 V and the hotend is 3.4 V\n\nWhile heating the bed and hotend I am using the LCD screen and rotary encoder to move my axes. It works as expected until printing. I have upgraded to an aluminum 12/24 V hotbed from the original PCB.\nCurrently getting Repetier. Will update.\nThe z-axis leadscrew is M5-0.8 mm\n\n\",RMF,\"Carl Witthoft, I think you are on to something with rogue commands limiting the Z-Axis. Thank you for pressing me to try a new program. Now I need to learn it...\n\nSo, it works now. The only difference is that I am printing from Repitier using Cora instead of using Slicer to make g-code for an SD card. While, I am happy with the results, I am dissapointed that I still don't KNOW the source of the issue. There must be some command from stock Slicer causing issues. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6427,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mathieu VIALES,3.267423727073639,4.516805406373626,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,0.7766301205685938,Nozzle heats up past the setpoint and increases,\"I made a few successful prints since I got my CR-10 two weeks ago and I didn't run into any major trouble. The printer is new.\n\nToday I set it to \"\"preheat\"\" mode while I was preparing the SD card with the settings being 210°C for the nozzle and 60°C for the bed. When I wanted to start the print I noticed that the temperature showed as \"\"actual temperature\"\" on the printer's screen showed 233°C and it was going up steadily while the \"\"requested\"\" temperature was still 210°C.\n\nThiking it might be a mis-manipulation on my part I powered it down for a few minutes (I got scared by the high-temp) and then powered it back on. I then immediately requested the print to start. The CR-10 heated up to the proper value, started printing and kept heating the nozzle. I stopped it at 217°C.\n\nI looked for an answer on the internet but all I could find is people having trouble with the nozzle not heating at all ...\n\",0scar,\"This is not an easy one to solve, the firmware of the printer should be keeping the printer at a certain temperature depending on the temperature setting and the current value. If the firmware is not able to keep the temperature at the requested level, but goes beyond that level, that could be considered \"\"strange\"\". As it measures the temperature (and reports it on your display) it must know that it is over the limit and thus should not power the hotend.\n\nIn this process there are a few possible candidates for you to look at:\n\n\nCheck for a faulty MOSFET (sort of an electronic switch) on your controller board (is it leaking current to the hotend?). \nCheck and or update the current settings for the PID values (settings for the control loop of the hotend). The PID values control the overshoot of the temperature. E.g. is this is very large overshoot? When incorrectly configured the temperature can get higher, but normally should never increase to infinity, are you sure it keeps rising? The determination of the new values is called PID tuning. Important commands (that need to be send over a USB connected printer with a 3D printer terminal application like Repetier Host, OctoPrint or Pronterface):\n\n\nThe M503 G-code command shows the current settings (somewhere in the heap of all settings).\nThe M303 G-code command can determine the values.\n\nReflash the firmware\nReplace the printer controller board\n\n\nYou could replace the thermistor and the heater cartridge (just to be sure, most definitely not the problem, but they are really cheap to replace). The thermistor works as it reports the temperature, and the heater element doesn't get powered by itself. \n\nAs suggested below the most likely candidate for your problem is the MOSFET. These are pretty easy to replace (depending on your board) or replaceable by an external MOSFET module (if you happen to have one lying around).\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n6427,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mathieu VIALES,3.267423727073639,4.516805406373626,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,0.7766301205685938,Nozzle heats up past the setpoint and increases,\"I made a few successful prints since I got my CR-10 two weeks ago and I didn't run into any major trouble. The printer is new.\n\nToday I set it to \"\"preheat\"\" mode while I was preparing the SD card with the settings being 210°C for the nozzle and 60°C for the bed. When I wanted to start the print I noticed that the temperature showed as \"\"actual temperature\"\" on the printer's screen showed 233°C and it was going up steadily while the \"\"requested\"\" temperature was still 210°C.\n\nThiking it might be a mis-manipulation on my part I powered it down for a few minutes (I got scared by the high-temp) and then powered it back on. I then immediately requested the print to start. The CR-10 heated up to the proper value, started printing and kept heating the nozzle. I stopped it at 217°C.\n\nI looked for an answer on the internet but all I could find is people having trouble with the nozzle not heating at all ...\n\",Midhun Kachappilly,\"A similar condition occurred in my 3D printer. I solved the same. I checked all my connection and I came to know that I connected the thermistor of the extruder in the wrong port. So just check the connection of your thermistor.\n\n\n\nActually my 3D printer circuit board frequently failed because of over current. I then added a multimeter in series with my power supply and the load, also a voltmeter across the voltage regulator. I then corrected every motor driver DRV8825 to a reference voltage of 0.6 V so that the maximum current supplied to each of the motor will be less than 1 A. All these made my circuit checked ok. Then I uploaded the G-code, but I couldn't print because my extruder gets heated about 280 °C and got reset and suddenly shut down the extruder supply. This continues to happen.\n\nThen I reinstalled the Marlin firmware and I also changed the port of my thermistor. Now my 3D printer is ok and prints nicely. I also faced another problem while I gave the print command - it showed that the extruder and bed had started heating but it actually was not heating. So I reinstalled the firmware again and this fixed it. Now my 3D printer works OK. You just try for these steps:\n\n\nCheck the connection.\nReinstall the firmware.\nTry manually preheat the extruder, and just see whether it heats to infinity.\n\n\nThese are my working experience please try for these, I think it will help you. Just don't leave it you will get the solution. Keep on trying.\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n9935,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mathieu VIALES,2.1782824847157594,4.2294667199949245,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.306096197889172,\"Nozzle insulation gone, can the printer be damaged?\",\"During a print a lot of plastic ended up ripping the nozzle's yellow insulation strap. \n\nCan printing without this insulation around the fusion chamber damage the printer?\n\nIf there is no chance of damaging the printer, how likely is it that the prints will be affected by the absence of this insulation \n\n\n\",Mick,\"Removing the insulation will not damage the printer, although it may affect the quality of the prints. The insulation is, after all, there for a purpose.\n\nAllowing too much heat to escape radiatively from the heater block will reduce the maximum flow rate, since less energy will be available to heat the filament, and you may need to reduce your printing speeds or increase your nozzle temperature.\n\nA bigger problem is that heat radiating from the heater block can cause already extruded filament to sag, especially when printing details and intricate infill. If the nozzle remains too long in any area, already extruded filament is likely to soften and deform. Without adequate insulation, the only way to counteract this is by increasing part cooling, and this will remove even more energy from the heater block.\n\nEither fit new insulating tape or buy some silicone socks, since they are readily available for MK7/8/9 heater blocks. Then print a couple of Benchies, both with and without a sock, and compare the results.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n9935,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mathieu VIALES,2.1782824847157594,4.2294667199949245,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.306096197889172,\"Nozzle insulation gone, can the printer be damaged?\",\"During a print a lot of plastic ended up ripping the nozzle's yellow insulation strap. \n\nCan printing without this insulation around the fusion chamber damage the printer?\n\nIf there is no chance of damaging the printer, how likely is it that the prints will be affected by the absence of this insulation \n\n\n\",0scar,\"No, without the insulation you can print without a problem. I've been printing for years with (cotton or silicone) and without insulation, works perfectly. Although heat radiates from the heater block, I've never experienced issues that it causes overheating of your printed parts.\n\nNote that the insulation tries to contain the heat in the nozzle preventing heat to leak to the surroundings (less energy is used/wasted). As such you may need to do a new PID tuning (certainly when the print cooling fan is incorrectly positioned as such that it cools the hotend heater block), but printing should just work fine if the print cooling fan is in the correct position.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10798,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mathieu VIALES,0.0,2.729972460763979,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Printer head too low when printing,\"Problem\n\nMy CR-10 printer seems to be trying to print the model 4 or 5 layers too low. This means that for the first few layers, the printing nozzle is forced against the bed, preventing extrusion until the print reaches higher layers.\n\nOutcome\n\nThis results in the bottom part of the print having the internal structure visible and the printing head deteriorating. I had to remove the old nozzle because it was clogged up with what I believe to be some residue that was picked up during preceding prints.\n\n\nnote: On this print, the top part is almost-well printed. It cannot be seen in pictures, but I say \"\"almost\"\" because the well-printed part is still much thinner than expected. This is the result of my purposeful mis-leveling the bed so that the part where the printer \"\"homes\"\" is higher than the lower part. I did this to see if there was any obvious bending of the printing bed. Doesn't look like there is.\n\nFix attempts\n\n\nI have tried to re-level the bed multiple times, but it doesn't matter as the \"\"too low\"\" effect is independent from the location on the bed.\nI have tried using the printer's built-in Z-offset but to no avail. This might be due to the fact that I control the print through Ultimaker Cura 4, so I tried looking for the Z-offset property in Ultimaker Cura and even though internet says it exists, I failed to find it.\n\n\nHistory\n\nThe printer used to work perfectly well and I do not remember having changed anything before the problem arose. I recently changed the nozzle and made sure to tighten it as high as possible but the Z-offset problem still persists.\n\",Stefan,\"Did you verify the Cura z-offset actually changed the corresponding G-Codes? \n\nI had the opposite problem on my RF1000. To fix the problem I added the following 2 lines to my start G-Codes:\n\nM3001 ; Activate Z-Compensation \nM206 Z-0.3 ; Set z offset 0.3mm closer to the nozzle\n\n\nThe first line was default in some example prints and is (as far as I know) only used by Renkforce printers. The second line moves the nozzle closer to the bed. In your case you'd have to move it further away and would need a positive Z value.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10798,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mathieu VIALES,0.0,2.729972460763979,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Printer head too low when printing,\"Problem\n\nMy CR-10 printer seems to be trying to print the model 4 or 5 layers too low. This means that for the first few layers, the printing nozzle is forced against the bed, preventing extrusion until the print reaches higher layers.\n\nOutcome\n\nThis results in the bottom part of the print having the internal structure visible and the printing head deteriorating. I had to remove the old nozzle because it was clogged up with what I believe to be some residue that was picked up during preceding prints.\n\n\nnote: On this print, the top part is almost-well printed. It cannot be seen in pictures, but I say \"\"almost\"\" because the well-printed part is still much thinner than expected. This is the result of my purposeful mis-leveling the bed so that the part where the printer \"\"homes\"\" is higher than the lower part. I did this to see if there was any obvious bending of the printing bed. Doesn't look like there is.\n\nFix attempts\n\n\nI have tried to re-level the bed multiple times, but it doesn't matter as the \"\"too low\"\" effect is independent from the location on the bed.\nI have tried using the printer's built-in Z-offset but to no avail. This might be due to the fact that I control the print through Ultimaker Cura 4, so I tried looking for the Z-offset property in Ultimaker Cura and even though internet says it exists, I failed to find it.\n\n\nHistory\n\nThe printer used to work perfectly well and I do not remember having changed anything before the problem arose. I recently changed the nozzle and made sure to tighten it as high as possible but the Z-offset problem still persists.\n\",Mathieu VIALES,\"TLDR; Make sure the bed isn't too high, the z-axis should reach the end-of-rail indicator without forcing against the bed\n\n\n\nSo it appears I simply misunderstood (or mis-assumed) the way my printer works.\n\nFor some reason I believed that it was the printing head, while auto-homeing, that was defining the \"\"point zero\"\" for the z axis. Didn't realize, even after disassembled the whole head block, that there was no such mechanism built in.\n\nWhile zeroing it before starting my on-going print I noticed the \"\"click\"\" of the end-of-rail switch for the z-axis while the head was forcing against the bed, desperately trying to reach that damn switch. Then it all clicked together ...\n\nWhat happened:\n\nFor some reason a few weeks ago I decided to level the bed by raising the z-axis by spinning the its driving wheel by hand, taking it very far from the end-of-rail stopper. Ever since then I've been leveling the bed this way, not realizing I was preventing the head from reaching end-of-rail without having to force against the bed.\n\nSo yeah, just took the bed as far down as possible, made the printer auto-home and leveled the bed from there, as it should be done, and my print is now going very well.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n6432,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Midhun Kachappilly,2.1782824847157594,4.219475624539356,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Z-axis comes down and presses the bed while printing,\"I am using a Prusa i3 with Marlin Firmware. \n\nAll the components of my 3D printer working fine. I have a problem with my Z-axis, it comes down and get pressed by the bed. I have tried adjusting the endstop switch and calibrated the Z-axis still Z-axis comes down while printing. \n\nedit: - additional information -\nWhile printing the first layer is printing okay, but while filling the inner layer and continue with the next layers the nozzle actually drags and pressed the print.\n\nCan anyone explain why this happens?\n\",0scar,\"When the head/nozzle assembly runs into the bed, you need to watch out for:\n\n\nCheck for Endstop problems:\n\n\nIs the switch properly wired up?\nIs the switch working?\nIs the switch mounted firmly to the frame and correctly adjusted?\n\nLevel the bed as level as possible; what is meant here is that the bed needs to be parallel to the X-axis, not bubble level. This ensures that the nozzle is exactly at the same distance away at every point on the build platform. You achieve this by setting the Z endstop as such that the nozzle is close to build platform with platform screws screwed in for some distance. When the endstop is firmly attached, home the printer through the menu of the printer, try adjusting the screws such that the level is everywhere the same (in between changing the location of the nozzle carriage to set the level, home the machine once in a while). Use a piece of paper for the correct distance; a slight resistance felt when dragging the paper is sufficient. Please note that it makes a difference when you level the bed cold or hot, hot is preferred.\nSlicer settings; Be sure that your slicer doesn't introduce a Z offset.\n\n\n\n\nEDIT:\nWith respect to the additional information, you really need to check the level of the bed, level with a hot bed and a hot nozzle (e.g. PLA temperatures of respectively 60 °C/190 °C). Furthermore, be sure that you get enough adhesion. Use (sanded and cleaned) tape, hairspray, glue stick or whatever trick you can find to get the filament to stick well enough that it won't be picked up by the nozzle and dragged around. For me personally printing directly on the aluminium bed with 3DLAC (sort of super strong hairspray) or on glass works best, I'm not a fan of tape.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n6438,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,typo,2.1782824847157594,3.0563687480099424,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Which outdoor filaments for unheated beds?,\"I am searching for 3D printing filaments, that are suitable for outdoor purposes, but printable on unheated beds.\n\nI will mostly use it for sensor node enclosures (should withstand temperature up to 50°C/120°F) and car accessories (70°C/160°F).\n\nIf it requires annealing, it should have low shrinkage, since I will be printing parts that will fit into each other.\n\",0scar,\"Considering your temperature requirements PETG could be used on unheated beds.\n\nHigh operational temperatures for your products requires filaments with a high glass transition temperature (the point where the plastic becomes soft. A filament with a high glass transition temperature causes filament to shrink considerably when the bed is not heated (as when the bed it heated, the plastic is soft and withstands the shrinkage stresses better). Basically, your requirements are in contradiction. You should be using a heated bed and ABS, or a high temperature resistant filament like a co-polyester.\n\nExample of filament comparison\n\n\nIf a heated bed is no option, PETG is you most likely candidate for printing as many filament manufacturing brands say that a heated bed is optional. My personal experience is that PETG very much likes a heated bed, getting it to stick at lower temperatures is more difficult.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6438,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,typo,2.1782824847157594,3.0563687480099424,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Which outdoor filaments for unheated beds?,\"I am searching for 3D printing filaments, that are suitable for outdoor purposes, but printable on unheated beds.\n\nI will mostly use it for sensor node enclosures (should withstand temperature up to 50°C/120°F) and car accessories (70°C/160°F).\n\nIf it requires annealing, it should have low shrinkage, since I will be printing parts that will fit into each other.\n\",Himanshu,\"PETG is good for your project.\nYou can also print transparent ABS on unheated bed with ABS juice.I tried transparent ABS in outside environment and it work fine.I live in India where outdoor temperature reach to 45C in summer.It is easy to print small parts.ABS juice may or may not work with large parts depending on your ambient room temperature.Ambient room temp should be above 30C for ABS on unheated bed.I suggest you to use a enclosure for printer if you are in cold area.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6479,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,typo,2.528907649931287,3.9625206897189615,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.9505769891325135,3D printing filament resistant to steam,\"I need to replace the lid of my water kettle and am searching for a filament, that is suitable for this purpose. The requirements are:\n\n\nStable at 100°C (212°F)\nResistant to steam/moisture\nFood-safe\n\n\nHas anyone experimented with this or similar purposes?\n\",Davo,\"I recommend PEEK if you are able to print around 400 °C.\n\nFrom Wikipedia - Polyether ether ketone\n\n\n\n\n\nAs requested in comments, here is the setup I use to print small PEEK parts: \n\n\nHyrel3D Engine, Standard Resolution (ESR): $2500 list\nHyrel3D MK1-450 print head for 1.75mm filaments between 300 °C and 450 °C: $450 list\n\n\nPlease note that larger parts will require (and all parts will benefit from) a heated build chamber. Also note that annealing PEEK parts after printing (we use a circuit board reflow oven) recrystallizes (strengthens) the PEEK (and is recommended, but not required).\n\nHere is one of our videos from 2015 showing the 410 °C prototype for this head printing PEEK: YouTube - Introducing Hyrel's MK1-450 Printing PEEK and PC\n\nI work for Hyrel 3D. The company page is linked in my profile.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6479,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,typo,2.528907649931287,3.9625206897189615,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.9505769891325135,3D printing filament resistant to steam,\"I need to replace the lid of my water kettle and am searching for a filament, that is suitable for this purpose. The requirements are:\n\n\nStable at 100°C (212°F)\nResistant to steam/moisture\nFood-safe\n\n\nHas anyone experimented with this or similar purposes?\n\",0scar,\"There are few materials that go up to that temperature and beyond.\n\nA very nice generic overview is given by Simplify3d:\n\nThis figure shows an overview of many of the used materials in 3D printing\n\n\nWhen looking closely, and without pointing to specific brands (to avoid a commercial posting), your best chances for appropriate filaments for your application is to look at Nylon, Polycarbonate (do not consider Polypropylene; that is very difficult to print) or (not mentioned in the overview as they are more recent filaments) Co-Polyester polymers.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6608,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,typo,2.528907649931287,4.156257367177759,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,DIY tensile strength testing,\"I want to tackle an experiment with the following goal:\n\n\n Determine the correlations between printing parameters (temperatures,\n speeds, humidity, perimeters, infill, etc.) and tensile strength using\n a specific 3D printer, test specimen, and filament brand/model.\n\n\nThis goal calls for two parts then: a standardized test procedure and test specimen. For the test procedure, I've been asking myself:\n\n\n What portable, measurable and roughly consistent tensile strength test\n does not require building a complicated machine, can be performed with\n ready-made tools or machines available at a large hardware store, and\n can be set up within 5 minutes?\n\n\nI am thinking here about a procedure that lies somewhere between this hanging scale test and ISO 527. Definitely not using bare hands or pliers. Once the procedure is defined, this begs the question:\n\n\n Is the ISO 3167 multipurpose test specimen an appropriate specimen for\n the test procedure outlined above or are there other specimens that\n are more suitable?\n\n\nI was thinking that, since the usual filaments have an ultimate strength of around 40-60 MPa, perhaps the \"\"recoil\"\" would be too much and one needs to use a smaller, weaker specimen.\n\",0scar,\"For these kind of tests you could rely on the ASTM standards. They define test procedures and test specimen sizes for different types of tests. Or you can derive a specimen yourself based on these standards (e.g. for my bachelor's degree I used an alternative notch impact specimen as I was bound to the amount of available material of the turbine rotor blade the specimens were taken from). Considering the material, you could device up a contraption made from extrusion profiles or something.\n\nPlease do note that to get reasonable results, you would have to do a lot of tests as the spread in results is probably even more than in metals. \n\nThe company I work for does this, these material qualification programmes run for long times (years, as we also do fatigue and creep testing), and a lot of samples are tested to qualify for use in Aerospace applications.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n10238,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,typo,2.1782824847157594,4.285226429075837,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,Linux software for laser engraver,\"I am searching for a Linux software to control the 3000 mW laser engraver depicted below. It's a common model you'd find on AliExpress, Banggood, etc. under different brand names.\n\nI have already tried nejePrint, LaserWeb, and EzGraver, but they don't work. Any ideas?\n\n\n\",fred_dot_u,\"A program that lists as functional with Linux is Lightburn. It's new to the laser engraving world and supports GRBL type controllers as well as Ruida brand and possibly a few others. If you can determine your controller, you're a step ahead of the game.\n\nDirectly from their site:\n\n\n LightBurn\n \n LightBurn is layout, editing, and control software for your laser\n cutter. With LightBurn you can:\n \n \n Import artwork in a variety of common vector graphic and image formats (including AI, PDF, SVG, DXF, PLT, PNG, JPG, GIF, BMP)\n Arrange, edit, and even create new vector shapes within the editor, with powerful features like offsetting, boolean operations, welding,\n and node editing\n Apply settings like power, speed, number of passes, cut order, brightness & contrast, dithering mode, and much more\n Send the result directly to your laser cutter\n \n \n LightBurn is a native application written for Windows, Mac OS, and\n Linux.\n\n\n\n\nI'm a satisfied Lightburn user, not a company representative.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n10238,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,typo,2.1782824847157594,4.285226429075837,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,Linux software for laser engraver,\"I am searching for a Linux software to control the 3000 mW laser engraver depicted below. It's a common model you'd find on AliExpress, Banggood, etc. under different brand names.\n\nI have already tried nejePrint, LaserWeb, and EzGraver, but they don't work. Any ideas?\n\n\n\",user164328,\"I also have one, when you plug it on your linux computer, there is a CH340G usb-serial chip inside, a serial port should be available at /dev/ttyUSB0, and you can send a right BMP file via this serial port.\n\nMaybe EzGraver would work?\n\nhttps://github.com/camrein/EzGraver\n\",0.0,0.0\n6448,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Phil,2.528907649931287,4.688799442998175,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Prints to one side,\"I use Cura for creating the G-code files for my (2 1/2 year old) Prusa i3. \n\nI have to put the prints in the corner furthest from the X-Y-Z origin symbol as the machine prints in the middle of the bed. How do I remove this offset?\n\",0scar,\"Not being able to see your settings, or your G-code, it is difficult to say. If it is slicer settings related, a common mistake is that the \"\"origin at center\"\" option is active. You should remove the tick mark at \"\"origin at center\"\" in the printer settings of the printer profile you use in Ultimaker Cura. Your origin is not in the center, it is left-front.\n\nAnother possibility is that the offset of your printer origin is way off. To check that you should connect the printer over USB and use programs as Repetier host, Pronterface, etc. to instruct the printer to go to (0,0,0) and see where the head ends up. You can also do this by printing a G-code file with homing code (G28) and a movement instruction (G1 X0 Y0 Z1 F1500). If the head moves to the left front, you know the printer is correctly setup, and you should look at the slicer.\n\nE.g. when M503 is send in a terminal to the printer over USB, amongst the output you can find:\n\n...\nRecv: echo:Home offset (mm)\nRecv: echo: M206 X0.00 Y2.00 Z0.00\n...\n\n\nWhen the X and Y values are high, this can also cause the printer to have a large offset.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6462,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ventis,0.0,3.4153416935671306,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Layer 1 won't adhere anymore,\"I have a new Tevo Tornado, which I have completed two good prints with, a 20x20 test cube from the supplied SD and the spool holder also from the SD. I say this to note that the printer was capable of producing a good print.\n\nPrint 3 was a design I created in Fusion and it printed badly, very disappointing holes missing. Stringing gaps between material just rubbish. I downloaded a simple print from Thingiverse just to see if it was my poor design skills or the printer and that came out just as poorly: lots of strings between details. Both of these were sliced in Cura. As that doesn't have a tornado driver, I downloaded one from the support group and the prints have not even started properly, see pictures for example.\n\nI might be going down rabbit holes here but this is what I have found and tried:\n\n\n1 relieved bed - done to ridiculous degree of accuracy, cold gross levelling then bed and nozzle at PLA working temp using feeler gauges. I have done 0.1 mm, 0.15 mm, 0.2 mm \n\n\nNow I have added to the suspicion the z axis coupler see images below: \n\n\n\n\n\nYouTube videos, that I have seen, show couplers that are not a spring - any thoughts? I would certainly appreciate the time anyone has to impart their knowledge.\n\nEDIT 1: (Additional information posted as comment, now moved to question)\n\nThe print bed is brand new from Tevo the unit has only done a few prints most aborted, and I also thought perhaps a residue from the feeler gauges had contaminated the bed, but I have cleaned it with alcohol wipes and also tried putting prints on to unused parts of the bed. You are right the g-code from the test print was from an unknown slicer, no doubt tuned by the manufacturer the part I designed in Fusion was sliced by cura. I have since tried the original test piece and it fouls the extruder nozzle almost straight away. \n\nThe main differences and there are not many between the set up parts, are that the Cura code does a G92 E0 G1 F1500 E-3.5 before starting layer 0 (both set z0,3). The test piece just does a G92 E0 G1 F7200 the feed rates are different the cura print sets M204 S500 and the test sample sets no acceleration. I assume there is a default in the Marlin firmware.. there is no doubt some globs of PLA stick like in dots between the strings, but the extrusion between direction changes do not kind of like join the dots where dots stick and joins don't. \n\nI am going to change the coupler because, well, I don't know what else to do. Replacing it with a better one can't help. Other things I have thought about - PLA temps - I have gone up the whole range according to the manufacturers bandwidth in 5 degree increments no difference I have also done some bed changes but neither hotter nor colder (it's 30°C and humid at the moment, so maybe a materials property issue, but then again no difference in conditions between a successful first test and all the messes). I am storing the PLA in a gel bead box to reduce humidity. still basically stumped!\n\nEDIT 2: (Additional information posted as comment, now moved to question)\n\nThanks for your observation, it's a new bed and I clean down with alcohol wipes ( isopropyl) I don't think I have ever put a finger on the bed - very aware of that. While I don't know what I am talking about on the one hand I am semi convinced it is not the bed, anyway I am going to get a glass bed in part to deal with the protruding screw head issue.\n\",ventis,\"Update and close \n\nI have changed the coupler on the z axis and levelled the bed put a print on to test, skirt and first layer look good so I think we can call this one closed and thank you very much for your comments.\n\n\n\nso over the weekend I have run a couple of prints, one very successful the other a complete fail, I would however judge the layer 1 adhesion issue to be largely solved by the replacement of the coupler, which was slightly fiddly. What I did notice was in purchasing a new coupler the design used by Tevo has to sets of perpendicular grub screws one for the lead screw and on to locate in the stepper motor shaft. The stepper motor only has in flat face so picking up on this is important and the factory had not - sloppy ! Secondly the lead screw has no faces so I dremeled two peep faces \n\nOnce the lead screw was dressed the locking down of the coupler was simple and secure. Took about 30 minutes to fix after days of misguided bed levelling and slicer tweaking. \n\nOld and new coupler new one bought as a pair from amazon £6 could have for them cheaper but I wanted next day not to wait.\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n6462,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ventis,0.0,3.4153416935671306,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Layer 1 won't adhere anymore,\"I have a new Tevo Tornado, which I have completed two good prints with, a 20x20 test cube from the supplied SD and the spool holder also from the SD. I say this to note that the printer was capable of producing a good print.\n\nPrint 3 was a design I created in Fusion and it printed badly, very disappointing holes missing. Stringing gaps between material just rubbish. I downloaded a simple print from Thingiverse just to see if it was my poor design skills or the printer and that came out just as poorly: lots of strings between details. Both of these were sliced in Cura. As that doesn't have a tornado driver, I downloaded one from the support group and the prints have not even started properly, see pictures for example.\n\nI might be going down rabbit holes here but this is what I have found and tried:\n\n\n1 relieved bed - done to ridiculous degree of accuracy, cold gross levelling then bed and nozzle at PLA working temp using feeler gauges. I have done 0.1 mm, 0.15 mm, 0.2 mm \n\n\nNow I have added to the suspicion the z axis coupler see images below: \n\n\n\n\n\nYouTube videos, that I have seen, show couplers that are not a spring - any thoughts? I would certainly appreciate the time anyone has to impart their knowledge.\n\nEDIT 1: (Additional information posted as comment, now moved to question)\n\nThe print bed is brand new from Tevo the unit has only done a few prints most aborted, and I also thought perhaps a residue from the feeler gauges had contaminated the bed, but I have cleaned it with alcohol wipes and also tried putting prints on to unused parts of the bed. You are right the g-code from the test print was from an unknown slicer, no doubt tuned by the manufacturer the part I designed in Fusion was sliced by cura. I have since tried the original test piece and it fouls the extruder nozzle almost straight away. \n\nThe main differences and there are not many between the set up parts, are that the Cura code does a G92 E0 G1 F1500 E-3.5 before starting layer 0 (both set z0,3). The test piece just does a G92 E0 G1 F7200 the feed rates are different the cura print sets M204 S500 and the test sample sets no acceleration. I assume there is a default in the Marlin firmware.. there is no doubt some globs of PLA stick like in dots between the strings, but the extrusion between direction changes do not kind of like join the dots where dots stick and joins don't. \n\nI am going to change the coupler because, well, I don't know what else to do. Replacing it with a better one can't help. Other things I have thought about - PLA temps - I have gone up the whole range according to the manufacturers bandwidth in 5 degree increments no difference I have also done some bed changes but neither hotter nor colder (it's 30°C and humid at the moment, so maybe a materials property issue, but then again no difference in conditions between a successful first test and all the messes). I am storing the PLA in a gel bead box to reduce humidity. still basically stumped!\n\nEDIT 2: (Additional information posted as comment, now moved to question)\n\nThanks for your observation, it's a new bed and I clean down with alcohol wipes ( isopropyl) I don't think I have ever put a finger on the bed - very aware of that. While I don't know what I am talking about on the one hand I am semi convinced it is not the bed, anyway I am going to get a glass bed in part to deal with the protruding screw head issue.\n\",Bea,\"What it may useful to improve your prints, are the following elements, according to my personal experience with the Tevo Tornado: \n1) level the bed when it's warm.\n2) print a cylinder that should measure 100 mm, afterwards measure it with a caliper: regulate the steps per mm according to the difference (many guides for calibration are available, for example: https://youtu.be/Wk3qYOB4E9I)\n3) print this object to be installed on the z axis and regulated with an M5 screw and nut: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2827664\n4) Print a test for temperatures, like this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2131069\nI hope it helps. Happy printing.\n\",0.0,0.0\n6471,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tc1967uk,2.1782824847157594,3.5689866985524614,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"RAMPS PLUS 2 and E1 socket problem (K200 Delta, but related to the PCB , not printer)\",\"Total 3D printing newbie here, apologies in advance if my terminology is wrong.\n\nI have a dual head K200 delta printer with a heated bed which I put together 8 months ago, but gave up due to frustration of the following error in Repetier:\n\ntemp sensor defect marked defect\nError:Printer set into dry run mode until restart! \n\n\nI've tried again today, and all 3 thermistors (and the spare) work fine, but socket E1 on the BT7200 V1.8.26 RAMPS PLUS 2 is giving me -20 °C readings no matter which thermistor I put in.\n\nEven though I’ve tried to tell it there’s only one extruder (in Printer Settings), the display right at the bottom of Repetier still thinks there’s two. \n\nToday I've emailed the seller and the company I bought it through, to see if they can help.\n\nIn the meantime - is there any way to make Repetier believe that I only have one extruder, or change things so that I can use the heated bed socket for the other extruder instead and just try to make due without the heatbed for now?\n\nHope you can help.\n\",profesor79,\"Repetier reads configuration from the printer when a connection is established, so as long as it gets info about 2 heads it will display it.\n\nThe best approach will be to disable heatbed or hotend directly in the firmware and reflash the printer. You could also swap pins on the board.\n\nWhen you decide to reflash the firmware, you could check with producer if they have suitable one or use Marlin (this is a configuration guide).\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6485,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hassan Gulzar,2.528907649931287,4.787120631617172,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,White blocks on LCD screen after Anet A8 power up,\"I just completed assembly of the Anet A8 and powered it up. \n\nPowering up shows white blocks on LED and a series of clicking noise for about three seconds with flashing red LED. During power-up, the following happens:\n\n\nThe side heat sink fans start (Blower fan remains off)\nLED comes up with all white blocks and buttons do nothing\nNo motor moves in any way\nMotherboard show not light except a three-flash-red-LEDnear the corner (fan connector)\nPrinter remains in the state\nReset button only repeats the clicking sound + red flashing LED\n\n\nVideo: https://photos.app.goo.gl/mxNNeK5o13a9C6TC8\n\nThe display of the Anet A8 now shows white blocks.\n\nAny hints as to what could be wrong?\n\nUpdate 1:\nThe clicking sound is actually the blower powering up and then going off immediately after.\n\nUpdate 2:\nI just did a blind flash to Marlin 1.18 and the firmware deployed successfully. Now, the boot sequence is almost 4 secs longer (previously, it was 3) and the clicking sound of the blower fan slowly spinning is replaced by a high spin-up of the blower. but after that, we are back to a dead printer with all whites.\n\",0scar,\"This is a known and documented problem of this printer. I'm afraid your printer board is dead.\n\nIf you have white squares on the display like this picture:\n\n\n\n You need to check Anet A8's mainboard - click reset button and check\n the D1 indicator:\n \n \n \n If D1 lights on for a second then went out and the screen is full of white square, try to reconnect screen wire for several times. When\n it's well connected, click the reset button. If still not working, you\n need to replace a screen.\n If the D1 indicator is always off and the screen is full of white square, you need to replace a mainboard.\n \n\n\nFrom the video you posted it can be seen that the D1 LED does not light up, it is off the whole time. Hence the main board is dead.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n8084,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hassan Gulzar,2.528907649931287,4.617898988774329,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,ANet A8 running Marlin v1.1.9 Auto Bedlevel with ROKO SN04-N,\"I'm trying to get the ROKO (SN04-N) sensor to work with my Anet A8. First of all, while trying to screw it to the extruder, I tightened it too much and sort of broke the acrylic plate... sort of. I had to use a very thin steel plate with two holes to enforce the acrylic plate. It still works.\n\nNow, I followed instructions in this video. (Please note that the video is not in English.) After the first \"\"Auto Home\"\" operation, the guy draws on the bed and then measures. My measurements are slightly different.\n\nAt the 19-minute mark, the guy is hard-coding the values but I don’t understand how he calculated them? My measured offsets are: X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 16 and Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 58. In his video, his calculations were 18 mm for the X offset and 57 mm for the Y offset. Either way, I’m not able to compile the code as a sanity check fails:\n\n\n`static_assert(FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION >= MIN_PROBE_Y, \"\"FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION is outside the probe region.\"\");`\n\n\nHere are the sensor limitation values from the configuration file:\n\n// Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).\n#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 20 //MIN_PROBE_EDGE\n#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 200 //(X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 47 //MIN_PROBE_EDGE\n#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 200 //(Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n\n\nWhat am I doing wrong?\n\nNote that I'm using Marlin Firmware v1.1.9\n\",0scar,\"Too bad you broke the acrylic plate (nice temporary fix though), but you can easily print a replacement part once your machine is up and running.\n\nProbe positioning is defined in the Marlin configuration as:\n\n\n * +-- BACK ---+\n * | |\n * L | (+) P | R -- probe (20,20)\n * E | | I\n * F | (-) N (+) | G -- nozzle (10,10)\n * T | | H\n * | (-) | T\n * | |\n * O-- FRONT --+\n * (0,0)\n\n\nThis implies that your sensor is located on the back-right when facing the machine and need to have the following constants set:\n\n\n#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 16 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]\n#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 58 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]\n#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]\n\n\nIn order to calculate the correct limits of travel for the sensor, you need to subtract the offset values from the bed size at the max limits.\n\nAn additional offset may be required for some sensors, so please add an additional offset in the configuration by defining:\n\n#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 10\n\n\nAs the sensor is off-center with respect to your nozzle, one can only assume that you have no extra space to move the whole printhead and therefore need to confine the head within the limits of the max/min bed size (there should be some extra space, this can be seen from the offsets for the origin as in values for X_MIN_POS and Y_MIN_POS, but for the sake of simplicity these will not be taken into account).\n\nBasically, your positive Y and positive X offset result in the following schematic.\n\n\nOr, if you include the #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE [value]\n\n\nBed limits for the sensor then will need to be calculated based on the values of your offset of the sensor. E.g. when your nozzle is at (X=0, Y-0), or (0, 0), your sensor is at (16, 58). If you don't want to move the head further left and forward (to respect to origin as limit!), this is the minimum position of the sensor. When the sensor is at the back-right position of (220, 220), the actual head is at (220-16=204, 220-58=162).\n\nThis means that the limits for the sensor without a minimum offset are (16, 58) and (220, 220):\n\n\n#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n\n\nwould translate with a MIN_PROBE_EDGE = 0 to:\n\n\n#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 16\n#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 220 \n#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 58\n#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 220\n\n\nand would translate with a MIN_PROBE_EDGE = 10 to:\n\n\n#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 26\n#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 210 \n#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 68\n#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 210\n\n\nThe assertion in code: FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION >= MIN_PROBE_Y would now translate to (58 >= 58) (or 68 >= 58), in your case it was (47 >= 58) which clearly is not true.\n\n\n\nPlease look into this answer, this answer or this answer for more information.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n8092,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hassan Gulzar,1.726248027126092,4.7038413206691665,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Anet A8 with Marlin firmware: Auto Home is crashing into bed,\"I got things moving from the answer to a previous question. Now, since the base-video I'm following is non-English, I want the next phase fixed: Probing failed\n\nAuto Homing showing failing Z-homing\n\n\n\nAfter the final adjusted firmware upload, and bringing the sensor up, I see that the extruder pushes the bed down a bit when I auto home and then the LCD screen says probing failed.\n\nIf compare to the latest (v1.1.9) Configuration.h file from GitHub, here are the changes:\n\n#define FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE // Line #0719, Uncommented\n\n#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 16 // Line # 0779, Was 0\n#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 58 // Line # 0780, Was 0\n\n#define Z_HOMING_HEIGHT 5 // Line # 0870, Was 4 \n\n// #define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z // Line # 0907 Commented\n\n#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR // Line # 0977, Uncommented\n\n#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + MIN_PROBE_EDGE) // Line # 1027, Uncommented\n#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE) // Line # 1028, Uncommented\n#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + MIN_PROBE_EDGE) // Line # 1029, Uncommented\n#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE) // Line # 1030, Uncommented\n\n#define Z_SAFE_HOMING // Line # 1144, Uncommented\n\n\nFrom the above changeset, lines 1027-1030 are from the other SO question I mentioned above, the remaining are following the video.\n\nAfter completing the steps up to the point where I push the firmware and have to lift the ROKO up I followed instructions in this video, my \"\"Auto Home\"\" operation is failing.\n\nUpdate 1\n\nI used Pronterface as recommended by @dgrat in comments below and got this result:\n\n>>> M119\nSENDING:M119\nReporting endstop status\nx_min: open\ny_min: open\nz_min: TRIGGERED\n\n\nI did not get the Probing failed message this time.\n\nWhat's next?\n\nUpdate 2\n\nI also went ahead and tried out the second answer, where @0scar is recommending to uncomment #define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z.\n\nThe results are exactly the same: The head hits the hotbed and goes back and then comes down slowly hitting and compressing the spring a bit before stopping. I did not get the Probing failed message this time.\n\",0scar,\"You should un-comment the following line to get rid of the Probing failed error message:\n\n// #define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z // Line # 0907 Commented\n\n\nto\n\n#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z\n\n\nYou have basically disabled the use of the minimum Z endstop, while in fact you are using one, the difference is that it is a sensor now, not a mechanical switch.\n\nPlease note the distance of the sensor to the bed, it looks as though it is pretty far away. Before sending an auto home command, it is better to test the endstop triggering beforehand; an external application (e.g. Pronterface, Repetier-Host, OctoPrint, etc.), USB cable and a laptop/computer can be used to send G-code commands through the terminal of the external application. Code M119 will output the endstop trigger status to the terminal.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6488,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dragonfly,2.1782824847157594,4.242101747493915,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Baking old PLA spool,\"Context\n\nA while ago I bought a kit for a 3D printer, along with filament etc. however, after some weeks I ran into some mechanical problems and because I had a lot of other things to do at the time I put the project on hold.\n\nNow, almost a year later, I thought I would continue the project. I've got all the mechanical pieces back to work right now, but I have some questions concerning the filament.\n\nMain question\n\nFirstly, I have a nearly full roll of PLA still, but it has been left in a dusty attic for almost a year. I read here that it could still be used if baked for a couple of hours at 50 degrees Celsius. Does anyone have experience with this? Can this be done in my regular oven that I also use for food without risk? \n\nSecondly, there is still some PLA stuck in the printhead. As this may have taken up moisture I fear it might expand and damage the printhead. Is this possible? How could I remove it?\n\",0scar,\"Oven drying PLA\n\nHeating filament below the transition temperature of the filament should not be unsafe when using that oven later for cooking food. You need the temperature to stay under the glass transition temperature of PLA so that the filament doesn't deform. Depending on the PLA filament, you should use the very lowest temperature your oven will be able to handle. Temperatures around 40 ℃ to 50 ℃ would be fine to leave the filament in for periods of 3 to 6 hours. Even at this temp your PLA will soften anyways at elevated temperatures, oven drying PLA not necessarily will give you good results. It is therefore of prime importance to store at least PLA (and nylon) in airtight containers with bags of desiccants. \n\nStuck PLA\n\nMoisture will not travel that far into the hotend, so changes are minimal that expanding filament has already damaged your hotend. Just heat up the nozzle and push the filament in by hand, put off the heat and pull the filament out fast. Heat up again and insert some fresh filament. Note that moisture in filament breaks the large polymer molecules, so even after drying you are left with brittle filament. Personally this has caused few of my prints to fail as the filament string broke a couple of times during prints (just snapped before the Ultimaker 3 extruder feeder); this was experienced with 2.85 mm filament on small diameter spools (about 20 cm in diameter).\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n6489,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Android Dev,2.528907649931287,3.2707264231908733,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Cura confused as to what's touching the buildplate?,\"I'm very new to 3D printing, but so far I've been able to print a couple things off Thingiverse without issue. However, as I'm trying to print another part, I've run into a situation where Cura is totally confused as to what's touching the buildplate and what isn't:\n\n\n\nAll I did was use the \"\"mirror\"\" feature to put it in a better orientation for printing....\n\nAny ideas what's going on here? I'm using Cura 3.4 for Linux.\n\n\n\nUpdate: I tried using the rotation tool instead as suggested by Oscar, but I get the same result:\n\n\n\nUpdate 2: Hmm so even when I just import the part without doing anything else, Cura is still confused:\n\n\n\",0scar,\"If you want to mirror the print to get the top to the bottom, and visa versa, you just need to rotate the part using the XYZ rotation tool. Mirroring is used to make a mirror image in the X-Z or Y-Z plane, not the X-Y plane. \n\nYou might just caught a bug, you could post that of their forum.\n\nUpdate: \n\nIf that does not fix it, you might have an incorrect STL model, e.g. the normals of the faces are incorrect. You could try to fix this by repairing the model through an online service like this one.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6489,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Android Dev,2.528907649931287,3.2707264231908733,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Cura confused as to what's touching the buildplate?,\"I'm very new to 3D printing, but so far I've been able to print a couple things off Thingiverse without issue. However, as I'm trying to print another part, I've run into a situation where Cura is totally confused as to what's touching the buildplate and what isn't:\n\n\n\nAll I did was use the \"\"mirror\"\" feature to put it in a better orientation for printing....\n\nAny ideas what's going on here? I'm using Cura 3.4 for Linux.\n\n\n\nUpdate: I tried using the rotation tool instead as suggested by Oscar, but I get the same result:\n\n\n\nUpdate 2: Hmm so even when I just import the part without doing anything else, Cura is still confused:\n\n\n\",OyaMist,\"The up- or down-ness of a part is its Z-orientation, which is specified in STL. It looks like whoever published that STL file published it upside down, requiring you to flip the part or rotate it by 180. You can flip it in Cura as you've done or leave a comment to the author of the STL that the part is upside down. However, the author may not know how to fix this because low-end modeling tools typically do not have the capability of flipping a model. In these cases, using another tool such as Cura or Slicer can generate a right-side up model. Cura seems to like generating AMF files, so I use Slicer to generate STL files for upside down models. Once you correct the STL file, you'll be able to import the model directly into Cura right-side up.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7219,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Android Dev,2.1782824847157594,4.616290579376162,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Ultimaker Cura not always telling extruder to retract when traveling,\"I'm having a problem with Ultimaker Cura (v3.4.0) where it doesn't always tell the extruder to retract when performing a travel, which causes the hotend to leave a \"\"trail\"\" as it's moving and not start printing again right away when the travel is over.\n\nFor example, the extruder does not retract when performing this travel (blue):\n\n\n\nAnd yes, I do have \"\"retract before outer wall\"\" enabled....\n\n\n\n\nAny ideas how to solve this?\n\",0scar,\"You probably have the \"\"Combing Mode\"\" option under the \"\"Travel\"\" options enabled for each layer (All). Combing reduces print time by leaving out the retraction, but leads to ugly first and top layers by leaving \"\"scars\"\" on the surface. It can be disabled by excluding the bottom and top layer by changing the setting to Not in Skin or for all layers by choosing Off. The latter will increase printing time drastically! \n\n\n\nPlease note that as of version 3.5 of Ultimaker Cura the options of the combing setting have an additional setting. As of Ultimaker Cure 3.5.0 the options are named:\n\n\nOff\nAll\nNot in Skin (used to be No Skin a few versions ago)\nWithin Infill (new setting)\n\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n7952,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Android Dev,1.726248027126092,4.440027460088813,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Problems with bed leveling of Creality CR-10 Mini,\"So I've had my CR-10 Mini for some months now, and I've been continually having strange problems with bed leveling. Basically, after leveling the bed and printing a part, the bed is no longer leveled for printing again.\n\nJust now, I auto-homed, leveled the bed to where there was a pretty good amount of friction between the nozzle and a piece of paper, and started a print. The first layer didn't look like it was getting squished just that little bit that it should be, so I stopped the print, auto-homed again and checked the leveling with the paper. Low and behold, there was no friction at all between the nozzle and the paper. I re-leveled again and restarted the print, and then the first layer went down OK.\n\nSo what I'd like to know is why the heck am I having so many leveling problems?!? I've checked to make sure all my set screws are tight, my belts properly tensioned, and the rollers on the bed adjusted to slide smoothly but still have a good amount of grab. Help?\n\",0scar,\"The Creality CR-10 Mini is a portal printer using a single Z lead screw at one side of the portal to move the whole X axis gantry. This implies that the X gantry needs to be very stiff when raised and lowered from one side and also have a minimum of play on the rollers (especially on the lead screw driven side). \n\nI have seen many complaints from experience of people complaining that the gantry is not stiff enough, or that there is too much play on the rollers on either side of the gantry to result in a skew gantry. Consistent leveling is very hard on such machines. A colleague of me added an extra stepper (and split the original stepper connector) to have it raised and lowered from both sides. Do understand that this is also not optimal, missed steps on one of either sides can also cause the X gantry to become skew. A better solution is to create a belt driven extra lead screw that is powered by one stepper, you will not experience a skew gantry as the gantry is integrally moved.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n7952,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Android Dev,1.726248027126092,4.440027460088813,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Problems with bed leveling of Creality CR-10 Mini,\"So I've had my CR-10 Mini for some months now, and I've been continually having strange problems with bed leveling. Basically, after leveling the bed and printing a part, the bed is no longer leveled for printing again.\n\nJust now, I auto-homed, leveled the bed to where there was a pretty good amount of friction between the nozzle and a piece of paper, and started a print. The first layer didn't look like it was getting squished just that little bit that it should be, so I stopped the print, auto-homed again and checked the leveling with the paper. Low and behold, there was no friction at all between the nozzle and the paper. I re-leveled again and restarted the print, and then the first layer went down OK.\n\nSo what I'd like to know is why the heck am I having so many leveling problems?!? I've checked to make sure all my set screws are tight, my belts properly tensioned, and the rollers on the bed adjusted to slide smoothly but still have a good amount of grab. Help?\n\",user14996,\"I know this is a bit late, but I just saw it. I have had my Mini for about 2 months now. I noticed a similar problem and found that when I level the bed, I need to hit all 5 spots (4 corners and center) about 4 or 5 times. Just the slightest adjustment on one corner can throw another corner off. It's tedious, but worth it once the bed is level. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6495,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mirGantrophy,2.1782824847157594,4.597516961744042,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Anet A6 Z-axis min endstop not triggering,\"I had a Z probe installed but the wires came out of the header so I am trying to use software endstops, but any time I G28 the nozzle will always ram into the bed. I am using Marlin Firmware. Which I am relatively new with. I'm used to having hardware endstops, but,\n\nI don't have a hardware endstop currently (no probe/no switch). \n\n\nIs it possible to do this with software? \nI took out G28/G29 in my G-code and it shows that it is going to z0.2 and working upward (but it still hits the bed). If the bed is level do I need a G28?\nShould Z probe offset be 0?\n\n\n\n #define USE_XMIN_PLUG\n #define USE_YMIN_PLUG\n #define USE_ZMIN_PLUG\n //#define USE_XMAX_PLUG\n //#define USE_YMAX_PLUG\n //#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG\n #if DISABLED(ENDSTOPPULLUPS)\n // fine endstop settings: Individual pullups. will be ignored if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN_PROBE\n #endif\n #define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n #define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n #define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n #define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n #define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n #define Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n #define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the probe.\n\n // Enable this feature if all enabled endstop pins are interrupt-capable.\n // This will remove the need to poll the interrupt pins, saving many CPU cycles.\n #define ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE\n #define PROBE_MANUALLY\n #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 1 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]\n #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -55 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]\n #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -3.4\n #define MULTIPLE_PROBING 2\n #define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE 0 // Z Clearance for Deploy/Stow\n #define Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES 3 // Z Clearance between probe points\n\n // For M851 give a range for adjusting the Z probe offset\n #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN -20\n #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX 20\n #define INVERT_Z_DIR true\n #define Z_MIN_POS 0\n #if ENABLED(MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS)\n //#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_X\n //#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Y\n #define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z\n #endif\n #define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR\n #define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0\n\n #define Z_SAFE_HOMING\n\n #if ENABLED(Z_SAFE_HOMING)\n #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT ((X_BED_SIZE) / 2) // X point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).\n #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT ((Y_BED_SIZE) / 2) // Y point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).\n #endif\n\n\",Greenonline,\"The A6 3D Printer \nInstallation Instruction shows that there is an endstop, part 2-7-2, page 4, included in the kit:\n\n\n\nIt needs to be fitted as shown on page 8:\n\n\n\nPage 36 shows the correct length of the wires, which should prevent the wires being pulled out of the sensors/switches:\n\n\n\nPage 38 shows where the Z-axis endstop is attached to the controller board:\n\n\n\nTo be fair, this assembly guide seems to be rather poor quality and after having looked through it a number of times I fail to see any actual instructions on how, or where exactly, to mount the Z-axis minimum endstop.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6495,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mirGantrophy,2.1782824847157594,4.597516961744042,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Anet A6 Z-axis min endstop not triggering,\"I had a Z probe installed but the wires came out of the header so I am trying to use software endstops, but any time I G28 the nozzle will always ram into the bed. I am using Marlin Firmware. Which I am relatively new with. I'm used to having hardware endstops, but,\n\nI don't have a hardware endstop currently (no probe/no switch). \n\n\nIs it possible to do this with software? \nI took out G28/G29 in my G-code and it shows that it is going to z0.2 and working upward (but it still hits the bed). If the bed is level do I need a G28?\nShould Z probe offset be 0?\n\n\n\n #define USE_XMIN_PLUG\n #define USE_YMIN_PLUG\n #define USE_ZMIN_PLUG\n //#define USE_XMAX_PLUG\n //#define USE_YMAX_PLUG\n //#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG\n #if DISABLED(ENDSTOPPULLUPS)\n // fine endstop settings: Individual pullups. will be ignored if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN\n //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN_PROBE\n #endif\n #define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n #define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n #define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n #define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n #define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n #define Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n #define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the probe.\n\n // Enable this feature if all enabled endstop pins are interrupt-capable.\n // This will remove the need to poll the interrupt pins, saving many CPU cycles.\n #define ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE\n #define PROBE_MANUALLY\n #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 1 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]\n #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -55 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]\n #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -3.4\n #define MULTIPLE_PROBING 2\n #define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE 0 // Z Clearance for Deploy/Stow\n #define Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES 3 // Z Clearance between probe points\n\n // For M851 give a range for adjusting the Z probe offset\n #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN -20\n #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX 20\n #define INVERT_Z_DIR true\n #define Z_MIN_POS 0\n #if ENABLED(MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS)\n //#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_X\n //#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Y\n #define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z\n #endif\n #define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR\n #define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0\n\n #define Z_SAFE_HOMING\n\n #if ENABLED(Z_SAFE_HOMING)\n #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT ((X_BED_SIZE) / 2) // X point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).\n #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT ((Y_BED_SIZE) / 2) // Y point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).\n #endif\n\n\",0scar,\"There is no such thing as a software endstop for the 3D printer. When you power a printer the print head can be located at every X, Y, Z position (usually, Z is at the print height of your last print, X is at the minimum X, and Y is at an arbitrary location determined by the last print).\n\nThis is exactly why we need endstops, either mechanical, optical or electronic (inductive or capacitive) end stop switches or sensors. You instruct the printer to home by using a known fixed location of the printer; this is the hitting of all endstops. The origin of the printer may have offsets, as the origin of the printer may not coincide with the endstop location. For the Anet A6 this is a few millimeters, e.g. for Marlin firmware this is defined in the configuration by:\n\n\n#define X_MIN_POS -3\n#define Y_MIN_POS -5\n\n\nThe answer to your question: \"\"Is it possible to do this with software?\"\" is therefore, no, you cannot do this solely with software.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n6525,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,2.8153892694839717,3.178518415635008,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,Out-gassing of printed material when heated,\"We know from this answer, 3d printed materials continue to outgas after printing and being cured. My question relates to this:\n\n\nHow much does heating the printed object after printing (or being cured) affect out-gassing? \nDoes the continued out-gassing degrade the stability/quality of the print?\n\n\",cmm,\"This is not an answer to your question, but it relates to outgassing so I am sharing it here. \n\nI have used the acetone vapor method of smoothing the surface of ABS prints. It works really well, and the surface becomes much smoother and glassy. I printed a large coffee mug (lets, for the moment, ignore food safety issues) and made it very smooth.\n\nAfter a couple of weeks to allow the acetone to fully evaporate, I poured a nice, hot cup of tea. Unfortunately, the acetone had not fully left the print, and the surface was immediately covered with dozens of bubbles as the acetone evaporated and pushed against the ABS.\n\nThis effect was only because of the acetone. Another cup that had not been vapor smoothed worked perfectly and was unaffected by the hot water.\n\nI have not seen similar outgassing from PLA, ABS, Nylon, or PETG.\n\nIf I may hazard an opinion about the substance of your question...\n\nI don't think that outgassing is the biggest contributor to the aging of prints and their properties changing. I suspect that (perhaps not in order) these are larger factors:\n\n\nexposure to UV light. UV light breaks polymer bonds and reduces\nthe strength of plastic. \nabsorption of water vapor, which can both expand the material which causes stress, and chemically break polymer bonds.\nlong-term crystallization of the material\nfatigue from repeated sub-failure stress\n\n\nNASA used to have resources that spoke to outgassing rates related to suitability for space applications.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6525,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,2.8153892694839717,3.178518415635008,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,Out-gassing of printed material when heated,\"We know from this answer, 3d printed materials continue to outgas after printing and being cured. My question relates to this:\n\n\nHow much does heating the printed object after printing (or being cured) affect out-gassing? \nDoes the continued out-gassing degrade the stability/quality of the print?\n\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"The effect of temperature on outgas rates is a subject for Engineering.SE . As to continued outgassing - depends on the material in question. To pick an extreme example, solid CO2 (dry ice) will outgas until it's gone. But stuff that's got VOCs is expected to outgas; said volatiles leave by design and the remaining material stands on its own. \n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6667,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,3.618048892289167,4.46558598972673,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Wear resistant nozzles,\"I recently purchased some glow-in-the-dark PLA filament (just \"\"because\"\"). Being new to 3D printing, I didn't realize you shouldn't run this type of filament through a standard brass nozzle and should replace it using a \"\"wear resistant\"\" type nozzle. This is true of carbon fiber type filament as well. \n\nMy questions are:\n\n\nWhat types of nozzle material are considered \"\"wear resistant\"\" and are some materials better than others?\nCan I use this type of nozzle all the time (ie: are there any downsides for regular use)?\nWhat types of filament should you use a wear resistant nozzle with?\n\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"E3D have a blog post on the subject of hardened nozzles. The common abrasive materials are carbon fibre, wood impregnated filament (or any other particulate fill), and some pigments. The blog describes that as little as 250g of the more abrasive filaments can wreck a brass nozzle.\n\nFor wear resistance, different manufacturers will have different options. Stainless steel is a little harder than brass, and hardened steel is a big step forward. If you fancy spending more money, aluminium oxide (i.e. Ruby) is an option.\n\nThe downside is printability and cost. Specifically thermal conductivity of brass (or copper) is very good when compared to steel. However, this may not be the limiting factor for your printing unless you're running a very large machine. The various materials may also give different friction/wetting performance which can affect jams.\n\nDepending on the printer and the type of hardened nozzle, it probably makes sense to avoid swapping between hardened and standard nozzles most of the time.\n\nHardened nozzles cost between 3 and 20 times what you will pay for a branded brass nozzle (and arguably a bag of no-name brass nozzles can be treated as near enough free disposables in comparison).\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n6723,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,4.030301511886631,6.770054180511257,4.533938825782293,3.1880595895805834,4.731113485304429,4.592941926651472,What glues for PLA?,\"I will be creating a small tube styled piece to use as a junction between two pieces of plastic. The idea is to reattach the two pieces and provide strength so they don't break apart again. I plan on using PLA. My question is, will superglue (cyanoacrylate) work best for this or are there better choices for attaching PLA to hard (injected molded) plastic? The big thing I'm wanting to make sure is if any of these glues will dissolve the PLA and whether some glues might bond better than others.\n\",Trish,\"PLA is a nice one, and gluing has been a topic on some of our most favorite maker's channels. For example Stefan from CNC kitchen (this video) and Joel the 3DPrinting Nerd (this video). Here some information from them together with my own experiences. Most of these glues are not exactly PLA specific by the way and work for many other materials too. Be careful with PLA containing infil though, as that can seriously alter the properties.\n\nStep 0: Safety First!\n\nSome of these methods are working with chemicals that can irritate the skin (resin, cyanoacrylate), have irritating fumes (acetone), are flammable (acetone) and others.\n\nUse proper protection when working with these! Eye protection and respiratory protection, as well as gloves, are to be used when necessary. Read the manual of the products you are working with!\n\nPreparations\n\nFor most glues, it is advisable to prepare the surface: sand it to increase the surface area, remove grease from fingerprints etc. Follow the manual!\n\nGlues\n\n\nCyanoacrylate - yep, the \"\"one kind for all\"\" is a solution for PLA too: Superglue. However, look out for what type you get! Some are clearly better than others, and using an accelerator can change the properties of the glue spot. \n\n\nTogether with talcum powder, CA glue can fill gaps easily.\n\nEpoxy resin - Epoxy is a favorite for very tough gluing, a few droplets can stick a car to the roof... and it warms up in curing. If you take a slow curing resin, you can safely use it to glue PLA without the part deforming.\nUrethanes - 2 Component Urethanes offer strong but flexible bonds and work great according to Joel. Their curing process is also exothermic, so take care to not 'cook' your piece.\n2-phase Putty - in a similar vein come 2-phase putties like Green Stuff or Miliputt, which harden after mixing. Their heat generation isn't too big and they allow to fill gaps easily. My favorite stuff though is not the expensive modeling putty but the stuff from the home depot: stuff like Pattex Repairsorry, no English site for this or UHU Repair All Powerkitt harden within an hour, are surprisingly cheap and get a smooth surface.\nAcetone - We all know that you can smooth and glue ABS with Acetone or an acetone-ABS slurry. Tom (Thomas Sanladerer) made a few experiments with it. He discovered that it ALSO works for PLA: apply some acetone to a spot and press the second piece (that also was prepared this way) to it and they will meld themselves together after some time.\nThere's a type of glues commonly called \"\"Kraftkleber\"\" or \"\"Alleskleber\"\" in Germany, for example, UHU Hart or Pattex KraftkleberGerman. While they often stick to PLA, I personally don't like their gluing power and find them often quite messy to work with.\n\n\nGlue? Why glue?!\n\n\"\"Solder\"\"\n\nWhat better way is there to combine parts than welding or soldering?! Often none. My personal all-time-favorite PLA glue is PLA itself, by using it as PLA solder. This method also works for most other filament types, but is not advisable for ABS and other plastics that emit fumes without wearing respiratory protection! \n\n\nTake the pieces and make sure on both sides is a cavity that can be filled.\nTake a soldering iron and set it to around 200°C.\nTake a length of PLA filament.\nMelt the filament with the soldering iron and use it as solder when combining the two pieces. Make sure that at least some filament gets into the cavities and sticks there - it can help to stick the soldering iron into the goop in there to force it to merge with the infill/walls and press together to hot PLA goop filled pieces against the iron before pulling it away, pressing the pieces together.\nAs the PLA cools and hardens, the joint is usually tougher than the actual layer boundaries.\n\n\nPen\n\nInstead of using a soldering iron, one might also use a 3D printing penOne that eats filament, not one for PCL or some gel!, but I don't like those personally.\n\nInserts!\n\nOn a different note, a soldering iron is also a very good solution to make inserts into PLA - heat up the metal insert (like a nut) and press it into an undersized hole, and it will mold the plastic around itself into a perfect fit without any glue.\n\nFriction Welding\n\nAn alternative to using direct heat from a soldering iron is friction welding. For this, take a rotary power tool and some filament. Insert the filament into the tool, tighten and cut so that about an inch is reaching out of the claw. Turn it on at medium speed, about 800 to 1200 RPM. Now, once you press the tip of the spinning filament against other PLA it gets hot and melts, creating a welding seam. Joel has a good explanation.\n\",4.0548168669725735,2.0769199823829045\n6723,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,4.030301511886631,6.770054180511257,4.533938825782293,3.1880595895805834,4.731113485304429,4.592941926651472,What glues for PLA?,\"I will be creating a small tube styled piece to use as a junction between two pieces of plastic. The idea is to reattach the two pieces and provide strength so they don't break apart again. I plan on using PLA. My question is, will superglue (cyanoacrylate) work best for this or are there better choices for attaching PLA to hard (injected molded) plastic? The big thing I'm wanting to make sure is if any of these glues will dissolve the PLA and whether some glues might bond better than others.\n\",Himanshu,\"Yes Super Glue is best choice.\nI personally use it in many PLA projects.\nI even apply Super Glue layer to ABS prints to avoid layer separation.\n\nIt works well with both ABS and PLA, but exercise some caution whilst using Super Glue because it produces very bad tear gas. Use it in a well ventilated area.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n6739,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,2.528907649931287,4.301998074222566,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,Replacing bearings with Drylin bushings,\"When I purchased my China made Anet A8 printer, it came with the ball bearing style linear bearings for the 8mm guide rods. While pulling parts out of the box and putting them together, I noticed several of the small ball bearings fell out of their respective holders. At the time, I really didn't know what to think of it (ie: were these just extra ball bearings falling out; were they actually needed). I put the printer together anyway and it seems to work okay.\n\nI have noticed while I've been printing, there's a lot of noise during travel of the pieces. I'm not exactly sure where the noise is coming from, but realize it has to be coming from one or more of the bearings. To hopefully fix the issue, I've purchased some Igus Drylin polymer bushings to replace the linear bearings:\n\n\n\nMy questions are:\n\n\nWhen installing these bushings, should they be completely dry?\nShould I at least clean the rods?\nAre they completely maintenance free?\nAnything else I'm not thinking of to worry about?\n\n\",0scar,\"In addition to this answer and addressing Anything else I'm not thinking of to worry about? I would like to add that you should take care in installing the plastic bearings in suitable housings. It is best to lower the mass of the carriages by replacing the blocks and the bearings, there are a lot of printable bearing housings to find on the internet (e.g. Thingiverse). When installing plastic bearings, it is quite easy to get problems with bearings that bind, so take care when you install them and make sure the bearings do not bind (before you re-install the belt).\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6739,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,2.528907649931287,4.301998074222566,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,Replacing bearings with Drylin bushings,\"When I purchased my China made Anet A8 printer, it came with the ball bearing style linear bearings for the 8mm guide rods. While pulling parts out of the box and putting them together, I noticed several of the small ball bearings fell out of their respective holders. At the time, I really didn't know what to think of it (ie: were these just extra ball bearings falling out; were they actually needed). I put the printer together anyway and it seems to work okay.\n\nI have noticed while I've been printing, there's a lot of noise during travel of the pieces. I'm not exactly sure where the noise is coming from, but realize it has to be coming from one or more of the bearings. To hopefully fix the issue, I've purchased some Igus Drylin polymer bushings to replace the linear bearings:\n\n\n\nMy questions are:\n\n\nWhen installing these bushings, should they be completely dry?\nShould I at least clean the rods?\nAre they completely maintenance free?\nAnything else I'm not thinking of to worry about?\n\n\",Nikkoura,\"According to igus commercial documentation, these bushings:\n\n\ndo not need any kind of lubrication,\nare not susceptible to humidity (but your steel rods might) \nwork seamlessly in presence of dust (it gets expelled from the bushing with movements)\n\n\nI've replaced all of my bearings with these, and in my experience, the above claims have been true so far. I must say that I am really pleased with them. Movement is smoother, and the noise is considerably lower.\n\nI did clean the rods to remove any trace of lubrication prior to installing them. I did not dry them.\n\nI believe that igus is also selling rods in a material designed to even further improve the qualities of these bushings, but it starts to become quite an investment.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n7023,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,1.0891412423578797,2.6493643560602123,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Tell tale signs bed tape has given up the ghost,\"I use blue 3M Painter's tape to help with bed adhesion on my heated bed. Are there any tell tale signs which would lead me to believe I need to change the tape out?\n\nFor reference, I haven't been printing all that much, so the tape has been on there for some time. I took a look at it today and see there are some bubbles in the tape in the places where the last print I did was laid down. It appears the tape has lost some adhesion to the bed. I can run my fingers over it and it will re-stick to the bed, but is that good enough? (Obviously I'd re-clean the tape surface with isopropyl before I'd use it again, so not an issue there.) \n\nThe last thing I want to do is waste time and materials printing when I can be more proactive, so the real question here is:\n\nWhat signs might the tape be giving me it's time to change it out?\n\",mbmcavoy,\"Obviously, if the tape is torn or gouged in area that you intend to print on, you will need to replace it to have a good surface. If the damage is well clear of your first layer and will not risk snagging on printer mechanisms during movement, you may disregard it.\n\nI can't really tell you how much bubbling is acceptable. If your prints still come out in with an acceptable quality, then it's OK. If it causes defects that you don't accept, or failed prints due to a loss of adhesion, then it's not.\n\nWhen I started printing, I used painters tape, and would change it every few prints. To be honest, I was not very careful about protecting the tape when removing a print, and would often damage it. I also often found it easier to just peel the tape from the print bed as a way to remove a print. I don't even think I finished a single roll of tape before I eventually switched to glass/hairspray.\n\nI never used isopropyl or other things to clean it between prints. If you are concerned with cost and waste, I would think this would be even more than simply changing the tape frequently.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n7148,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,2.528907649931287,4.67858465808681,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Issues with connecting Pronterface to Anet A8 printer,\"I was recently told I should probably update my printer's firmware from the current version (ANET_A8_20160701V2.0) to Marlin (going to use v1.1.9). To do this, I dutifully downloaded both Pronterface and RepetierHost trying to connect with either one of them to my printer. I've checked the Device Mangler (Manager) and found the USB does connect and is recognized on COM5, yet neither software are connecting. The software sees COM5 as active as well, but I get back an error stating \"\"access is denied\"\" for some reason. What might I be doing wrong?\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"After some trial and error, I discovered you need to set the baud rate to 115200 in the printer settings. I went through and tried each of the baud settings available until it connected. Glad I started with Pronterface, as RepetierHost has a lot longer baud list :o) Setting the baud rate is not inuitive as to the issue, as getting back \"\"access denied\"\" to me implied something else was going on. After that, was able to run direct commands to the printer through the USB port without issues.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n8696,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,1.726248027126092,3.304391138419485,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,\"When installing a glass bed, what do you change?\",\"I have an Anet A8 clone printer with a heated aluminum print bed. I'm considering purchasing a glass bed to add on top of the aluminum. When adding a glass bed on top:\n\n\nHow would I go about installing the glass onto the aluminum bed? Is the major concern here just affixing it?\nHow do you adjust for the added thickness of the bed in the printer? Is this just through a limit switch adjustment or something firmware/software related?\nHow much do you adjust your heat (if at all)? Does it take a longer warm-up time due to having to heat the glass?\n\n\",kolosy,\"The most common way to install a glass bed (assuming it's literally a piece of borosilicate glass) is with binder clips. Glass is an insulator, so you may need to adjust your bed temps by a few degrees, and it will take somewhat longer to warm up.\n\nYou shouldn't need any firmware changes, but will need to adjust whatever z homing you do. If you have a limit switch currently, you'll need to move it by the thickness of the glass. If you have an inductive probe, it should still continue to work, but your z-offset will need to be adjusted. If you have BLTouch or a piezo, nothing should need to change there.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n10636,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,3.267423727073639,3.3621123551116554,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,How to decide print orientation?,\"Please Note: This question is not about the design. It's about deciding print orientation after the design. \n\nI have a small, but complex piece which I need to print. Here are two images of different orientation for you:\n\n\n\n\n\nNo matter how I orient it, it will require a support structure. Any which way I print it, I believe there will be pros/cons to doing so. My question is, Is there a thought process for how to orient the part for printing? What are some of the things to consider when deciding print orientation? \n\nNote-1: For a size reference of the part, looking at the second image, it is approximately 60 mm from the top of the long bottom part with the two \"\"claws\"\" point down, to the top of the vertical piece which has the two larger chamfered holes in it. In the same image, the left part will be at the bottom when put into use, though will be suspended (the chamfered holes will have wood screws in them, with a block of wood on the other side from the chamfers.\n\nNote-2: For this example, I will be using Priline PLA filament on an Anet-A8 printer. \n\",Trish,\"This part is quite complex and there are 3 orientations it could be printed at. I will assume picture 1 shows the item in orthonormal XYZ orientation: Z up, X to the front(-rightish) corner, Y to the (backish-)right. Using these we can chose have an XY (Pic 1), XZ (Pic 2) and YZ (Unpictured) plane of the build to touch on the build plate. Luckily this object is symmetric along the middles, so we won't need to look at two cases each.\n\nTo evaluate the best print orientation, we can look at the loads that will come to the part, the aesthetic (we get better resolutions in the Z than the XY on printers!) and of course the need for support structures and thus waste material.\n\nAesthetics are probably not an issue for this structural part, so let's take this part as an example and look at the three orientations and how to reason which orientation might be best.\n\nXY\n\nUsing the lowest XY plane as build contact we will need to support the upper arc of the bracket and the back-branch with the T-support also needs support. So we need quite some support material, which is a con.\n\nAlso, the layers in the C-Clamp are aligned in such a way that the clamp might easily break in its long line, but due to the length, it might be able to bend quite some. Remember that PLA is brittle though, but you could post-process the part by baking it to generate better inter-layer bonding. \n\nOn the upside, the T-stiffening is in its most sturdy orientation and the back extension has the most stable print orientation. You might want to add extra bottom layers to fight the loss of layers that are printed on the support structure though.\n\nXZ\n\nThe Orientation in the 2nd Picture has moved the interlayer boundaries to be on the short arms of the C-clamp, making it more fragile than the XY orientation.\n\nThe T-stiffing and back-branch are also significantly weakened and might break on stresses into the direction we had defined as Y in the premise. \n\nIt also needs to support the whole back of the C-Clamp during print, which is a considerable amount, though probably lower than in the XY orientation.\n\nYZ\n\nThe unshown orientation puts the C-clamp in such an orientation that each layer has a complete C. This makes the clamp as sturdy as it could be.\n\nThe back-branch is quite solid along its length (Y) and the stiffening T comes as an integral part of the perimeters, making it good to take loads from the branch. It does suffer from weakening the long part against forces splitting it along the long axis, which would be directed in the X-axis of our premise.\n\nThis orientation also reduces the needed support to a minimum, as we don't necessarily need to support the \"\"bridging\"\" part of the T-support.\n\nConclusion\n\nI would choose the YZ orientation based on both material need as well as the physical benefits of achieving the least weak configuration.\n\nOptimisation\n\nThe print object could be slightly optimized to reduce the needed support at the cost of increasing the part weight in the YZ orientation: \n\nAs suggested, widening the T to touch the build plate and the accompanying part to do too would make the part larger and would turn the support into an integral part of the print.\n\nOne could also turn the T into a Y structure with an overline for a shorter bridge and longer stretches of the shell that can dissipate the forces on the T-bar to the clamp more effectively.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10636,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,3.267423727073639,3.3621123551116554,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,How to decide print orientation?,\"Please Note: This question is not about the design. It's about deciding print orientation after the design. \n\nI have a small, but complex piece which I need to print. Here are two images of different orientation for you:\n\n\n\n\n\nNo matter how I orient it, it will require a support structure. Any which way I print it, I believe there will be pros/cons to doing so. My question is, Is there a thought process for how to orient the part for printing? What are some of the things to consider when deciding print orientation? \n\nNote-1: For a size reference of the part, looking at the second image, it is approximately 60 mm from the top of the long bottom part with the two \"\"claws\"\" point down, to the top of the vertical piece which has the two larger chamfered holes in it. In the same image, the left part will be at the bottom when put into use, though will be suspended (the chamfered holes will have wood screws in them, with a block of wood on the other side from the chamfers.\n\nNote-2: For this example, I will be using Priline PLA filament on an Anet-A8 printer. \n\",user77232,\"(Love the question and here is my 2 cents).\n\nFirstly, you want to minimize supports. Even if you have dissolvable supports, you would still want to minimize the usage.\n\nFor Example:\n\n\n\nAt first glance of the finished object, it is not obvious at what angle it was printed. Upon close inspection the overhang in the part is designed such that it can be printed without supports. This brings me to my first point:\n\nDesign with fabrication in mind\n\nI've often designed myself into a corner with parts that are complex and are impossible to print properly; or they use up too much filament in the supports. To this end I try to think about the shadow that the part will cast on the bed if there was a light source directly over head. I often orient the part so that it will \n\nCast the smallest possible shadow.\n\nThen there are the features. Does the hole need to be round? Does this flange need to be strong? If so then I try to ensure that the feature is oriented in the XY plane as much as possible, because the Z axis is the weakest. Therefore if you have a hole, and it needs to be strong, then it should be printed perpendicular to the Z axis.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n6528,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Martin Bariak,3.618048892289167,3.762140357558692,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,3.548335113978322,3.1761792699540483,3D Metal Printing,\"I have been wondering about 3D metal printing (steel, aluminium), but after a short research on google I found only too expensive printers (markforged, desktop metal and a few other industrial ones). Is there any less expensive printer that is able to print metal parts on the market ?\n\",typo,\"Anzalone and friends published A Low-Cost Open-Source Metal 3-D Printer in IEEE Access:\n\n\n This paper reports on the development of a open-source metal 3-D printer. The metal 3-D printer is controlled with an open-source micro-controller and is a combination of a low-cost commercial gas-metal arc welder and a derivative of the Rostock, a deltabot RepRap. The bill of materials, electrical and mechanical design schematics, and basic construction and operating procedures are provided.\n\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n6528,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Martin Bariak,3.618048892289167,3.762140357558692,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,3.548335113978322,3.1761792699540483,3D Metal Printing,\"I have been wondering about 3D metal printing (steel, aluminium), but after a short research on google I found only too expensive printers (markforged, desktop metal and a few other industrial ones). Is there any less expensive printer that is able to print metal parts on the market ?\n\",Chris Diel,\"You can do lost-PLA investment casting, the actual gear to do it is kind of pricey unless you're willing to create your own DIY forge for melting aluminum.\n\nCheck it out though, you don't need a special printer to do it.\n\nThere's also a way to coat your prints with metal it would require an electric current and some nasty chemicals, but it's possible as an alternative.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6535,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,vega,3.0576060275493275,5.5700535605403445,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Controlling more fans with RAMPS board,\"I am using RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin. With Marlin, you can control a large number of fans with the M106 P<fan index> command. I'd like RAMPS to control some additional fans, independent of layer fan. Are there free pins on RAMPS 1.4 to do that? Otherwise, could I setup the RAMPS board to send a command to a separate Arduino? I also have Octoprint if that makes it easier.\n\",0scar,\"From the sources of Marlin you can find how may fans you can use, even if you're not a coder it should be doable. From there you can find how to set the pins for the fans, provided that there are free unused and exposed (so that you do not have so solder directly to the microprocessor). First find how many fans are possible.\n\nStarting in Marlin_main.cpp and searching for 106 (or 106 on the Marlin GitHub website) will lead you to the sources of the execution of the M106 command. Below a snippet of M106 and M107 is shown. The reason for M107 to be there becomes clear later.\n\n\n#if FAN_COUNT > 0\n\n /**\n * M106: Set Fan Speed\n *\n * S<int> Speed between 0-255\n * P<index> Fan index, if more than one fan\n *\n * With EXTRA_FAN_SPEED enabled:\n *\n * T<int> Restore/Use/Set Temporary Speed:\n * 1 = Restore previous speed after T2\n * 2 = Use temporary speed set with T3-255\n * 3-255 = Set the speed for use with T2\n */\n inline void gcode_M106() {\n const uint8_t p = parser.byteval('P');\n if (p < FAN_COUNT) {\n #if ENABLED(EXTRA_FAN_SPEED)\n const int16_t t = parser.intval('T');\n if (t > 0) {\n switch (t) {\n case 1:\n fanSpeeds[p] = old_fanSpeeds[p];\n break;\n case 2:\n old_fanSpeeds[p] = fanSpeeds[p];\n fanSpeeds[p] = new_fanSpeeds[p];\n break;\n default:\n new_fanSpeeds[p] = MIN(t, 255);\n break;\n }\n return;\n }\n #endif // EXTRA_FAN_SPEED\n const uint16_t s = parser.ushortval('S', 255);\n fanSpeeds[p] = MIN(s, 255U);\n }\n }\n\n /**\n * M107: Fan Off\n */\n inline void gcode_M107() {\n const uint16_t p = parser.ushortval('P');\n if (p < FAN_COUNT) fanSpeeds[p] = 0;\n }\n\n#endif // FAN_COUNT > 0\n\n\nLooking at this code, the first thing (actually the first line, #if FAN_COUNT > 0, already hints to that) that catches your attention is constant FAN_COUNT. Apparently the software knows how much fans are defined! Interesting! How does it know that! This piece of code ends just after handling the M107 command (line #endif // FAN_COUNT > 0), hence it is displayed here.\n\nContinuing the search by finding how FAN_COUNT is set (using the search on GitHub for the Marlin repository) leads to file Conditionals_post.h. An interesting part is:\n\n\n/**\n * Up to 3 PWM fans\n */\n#if HAS_FAN2\n #define FAN_COUNT 3\n#elif HAS_FAN1\n #define FAN_COUNT 2\n#elif HAS_FAN0\n #define FAN_COUNT 1\n#else\n #define FAN_COUNT 0\n#endif\n\n\nSo depending on HAS_FANx (where x denotes 0, 1 or 2) you can have multiple fans, up to 3 in total! Cool, learned something in the process. :)\n\nLet's now search for HAS_FANx; in the same file you will find:\n\n\n// Other fans\n#define HAS_FAN0 (PIN_EXISTS(FAN))\n#define HAS_FAN1 (PIN_EXISTS(FAN1) && CONTROLLER_FAN_PIN != FAN1_PIN && E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN1_PIN && E1_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN1_PIN && E2_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN1_PIN && E3_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN1_PIN)\n#define HAS_FAN2 (PIN_EXISTS(FAN2) && CONTROLLER_FAN_PIN != FAN2_PIN && E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN2_PIN && E1_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN2_PIN && E2_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN2_PIN && E3_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN2_PIN)\n\n\nNow we are getting into clear water! This codes hints to FAN1_PIN and FAN2_PIN. If you look into you pin layout file, e.g. pins_RAMPS.h you see that that are the pin constants that need to be defined, actually FAN1_PIN is e.g. set if you choose an \"\"EFF\"\" configuration (Hotend, Fan0, Fan1), e.g. #define FAN1_PIN RAMPS_D8_PIN.\n\nWhat is left for you to do is find an unused pin of your micro-controller and set the FAN2_PIN with #define FAN2_PIN <a free pin number>.\n\nE.g. pin 4 is not a used pin number (and an analog output pin). Don't forget that the pin you choose cannot directly run a fan, it should be used to schedule a MOSFET.\n\nNote that a dual external fan header \"\"Reprap Ramps1.4 RRD Fan Extender\"\" exists, this describes using the D6 and D11 pins. Further investigation led to a 3D.SE posting using this fan header: \"\"How to configure Marlin to enable auto-fans with dual extruder\"\".\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n6541,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,elarr,2.8153892694839717,4.7927431196123855,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How to eliminate stringing and regulate flow rate?,\"I have been having a problem with stringing on my 3D printer, so initially I increased retraction distance from 6.5 mm to 8 mm. Then I tried again, with the same issue, so I increased retraction speed and lowered the extruder temperature. Same problem. Over and over. After I did each of these, I have since decreased move speed, increased minimum layer time, put fan on full blast, and nothing has seemed to increase print quality. \n\nI realize this is a lot of alterations to be making, but I'm not sure what to do next. I am using 1.75 mm PLA and a Monoprice Select V2.\n\",0scar,\"Stringing can be fought by increasing the retraction length, but 6.5 mm (the default in Ultimaker Cura) is already pretty much. Please do note that too much retraction can lead to sucking air into the nozzle, which can lead to air pockets/holes.\n\nBasically there are 3 mechanisms that are in play:\n\n\nRetraction\nTemperature\nSpeed\n\n\nYou have tried changing multiple parameters already. You may have better luck in reducing the temperature of the nozzle even further, start with a decrease of 5 °C. All that is left to do is increasing the travel speed.\n\nThere are many stringing test prints to print to fine tune stringing.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n7405,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,elarr,1.0891412423578797,3.6260512276357146,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Ultimaker Cura problems with build platform size and overhang support,\"I am attempting to print an axial fan blade, and due to the size requirements, I have to angle it on its side (despite only being 7.44 inches in diameter...). I am using an Ultimaker 3, which I thought was able to print 215mm (or 8.46 inches). This leads me to two questions:\n\nQuestion 1: If my diameter is only 7.44 inches, why am I unable to lay the fan blade flat (see below - notice the dimensions are within the bounds)? \n\nQuestion 2: What is so wrong with the surfaces in red that Cura cannot print, even with supports? I am using PVA as a support material, yet there is something wrong with my model in Cura. I checked the X-ray view and nothing seemed amiss. \n\",0scar,\"Ultimaker Cura print bed size sizes (shrinks) when you enable skirt, brim or raft build adhesion options. Try to print without build plate adhesion option if you want to push printing to the limits of the build plate. Furthermore, you mention the use of PVA, using 2 cores, the priming print tower also needs space to be printed, this can be also limiting your build plate space. Note that you can define where to print the tower, you could try locating it in a corner where the fan does not reach.\n\nFrom your screenshot with the fan flat it appears that you have selected dual extrusion. Note that the bed size depends on the amount of cores you use, from Ultimaker:\n\n\n Left or right nozzle: 215 x 215 x 300 mm (8.5 x 8.5 x 11.8 inches)\n \n Dual extrusion: 197 x 215 x 300 mm (7.8 x 8.5 x 11.8 inches)\n\n\nAs an example I have made a 7.44\"\" cylinder of 2\"\" height and put it onto the UM3E build plate to show the differences when you use dual extrusion.\n\nThis image shows the cylinder when printed with a single core:\n\n\nThis image shows the same cylinder, but now with enabled \"\"Extruder 2\"\" as the \"\"Support Extruder\"\" option:\n\n\n\n\nHaving an Ultimaker 3E myself, printing PVA might not be very good choice as you need to print a lot of support material when printing upright. PVA cooks easily even in the B core, it also needs to be very dry, PVA takes up moisture very fast and becomes useless after that. At work we have much better experience with break-away support material.\n\nAnother consideration why you should not print this upright is the orientation of the layers. It is generally known that the layer to layer bonding is less strong that the material itself, it at least provides a lot of notches from which cracks can initiate and grow. This means that if you want to print this, you should lay it flat, this way the centrifugal force is in line with the layer deposition direction.\n\n\n\nWith the correct layer height (read thin layers), you should be able to print this flat without support. I have printed similar structures like turbo turbine wheels with similar overhangs without support.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n6554,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Matt,2.528907649931287,4.059897408258981,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,First layer of print comes out poorly even when placed on a raft (which prints fine),\"I'm printing PLA with the Creality Ender 2 and my print comes out totally fine with the exception of the first layer.\n\nHere's the weird part though, if I place a raft or a brim below/around the print - the raft or brim will print perfectly cleanly. Even on a raft though, the very first layer of the actual print comes out ugly, as seen in the photo below, but the raft itself will be perfectly printed.\n\nFollowing that first ugly layer of the actual print, the rest of the print will be 100% clean. This happens consistently every time I print any object.\n\nThe perfectly printed raft can be seen on the right and the ugly first layer that printed on top of that raft can be seen on the left. Be sure to click the image to see the details of what I mean.\n\n\n\",Perplexed Dipole,\"Sounds like you need to get the printing nozzle closer to the bed. In the case of the raft you can adjust the 'air gap' which is how much it raises off the top of the raft before starting the print.\n\",0.0,0.0\n6554,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Matt,2.528907649931287,4.059897408258981,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,First layer of print comes out poorly even when placed on a raft (which prints fine),\"I'm printing PLA with the Creality Ender 2 and my print comes out totally fine with the exception of the first layer.\n\nHere's the weird part though, if I place a raft or a brim below/around the print - the raft or brim will print perfectly cleanly. Even on a raft though, the very first layer of the actual print comes out ugly, as seen in the photo below, but the raft itself will be perfectly printed.\n\nFollowing that first ugly layer of the actual print, the rest of the print will be 100% clean. This happens consistently every time I print any object.\n\nThe perfectly printed raft can be seen on the right and the ugly first layer that printed on top of that raft can be seen on the left. Be sure to click the image to see the details of what I mean.\n\n\n\",Matt,\"Turns out it had to do with the nature of the small holes that I was printing. I had to slow the speed of the initial layer down from 25mm/s to 15mm/s and also set Cura to 'optimize wall printing order' so that it didn't jump back and forth between holes constantly. \n\nI also sped up the travel speed to 50mm/s on the initial layer to minimize oozing (although I'm not sure this actually did anything). Print came out beautifully.\n\nDidn't even need the raft.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6922,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Matt,2.1782824847157594,4.767392892482216,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Bowden tube clog,\"There's PLA filament clogged in my bowden tube, is there a best practice for cleaning it out or do I need to replace the whole tube? Also the couplings are totally stuck :S - so I guess those would need replacement too or are there ways to get stuck couplings off?\n\nVideo here\n\",fred_dot_u,\"If you are able to force the filament from the interior of the bowden tube without causing damage to the tube, you will be able to determine the cause of the clog. My bowden tube clogged recently, but it was because I left the system idle with old filament inside. The filament broke from brittleness and the edge of the broken pieces managed to wedge against the tube. \n\nI was able to use a \"\"healthy\"\" piece of filament along with great force (pliers pushing close to the tubing end) and remove the damaged filament.\n\nOnce removed, the new filament slid easily within.\n\nYour PTC fittings may not have to be replaced if the tubing is not damaged inside and if the existing spacing meets your requirements. A PTC fitting has a ring of teeth which gouge and/or grasp the outside of the tubing preventing removal. It is frequently necessary to push the tubing into the fitting, then compressing the release ring followed by pulling the tubing.\n\nThe PTC fitting at the end where only the filament exits is probably a stock fitting. The fitting which has the bowden tube extending through it has been drilled and may be challenging to find. Your best source for such a fitting is the original manufacturer.\n\nIt's clear in the video that the threaded portion of the two fittings are different.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6922,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Matt,2.1782824847157594,4.767392892482216,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Bowden tube clog,\"There's PLA filament clogged in my bowden tube, is there a best practice for cleaning it out or do I need to replace the whole tube? Also the couplings are totally stuck :S - so I guess those would need replacement too or are there ways to get stuck couplings off?\n\nVideo here\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"As a short-term fix, grab a twist drill bit that is on the order of 1.5 mm diameter (assuming a 1.75 mm tube). Using a hand drill, slowly and gently drill out the clogged filament. Obviously you want to try to avoid scarring the teflon lining, so better to use the thinnest drill that will work. \n\nWith a little training and a little luck, you'll get the clog cleared. I would recommend removing the nozzle first so that the chips don't fall into the nozzle.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n6557,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,nebogipfel,2.528907649931287,3.7842189781769173,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Is the 110 m length accurate for 3.0 mm 1 kg spool?,\"I've been seeing the 330 m and 110 m length estimates for 1.75 and 3.0 mm spools (of PLA, presumably). But a moment's thought staring at that will raise an obvious question.\n\nUsing πr², we get the area of the filament in square millimeters (rounding to two decimal points)\n\nFor 1.75 it's 2.41 mm²\n\nFor 3.00 it's 7.07 mm²\n\nThen taking the ratio and multiplying:\n\n(2.41/7.07) * 330 m = 112 m which is close enough to 110 m.\n\nBUT as all makers of filament and makers of extruders know, 3.00 mm is just a rounding off of the real dimension, which is 2.85 mm. Now do that:\n\nFor 2.85 it's 6.38 mm²\n\nand:\n\n(2.41/6.38) * 330 m = 125 m which is at least 120 m.\n\nSo, whoever calculated the approximation of 110 m did the calculation based on the rounded rather than actual dimension. What am I missing here?\n\nMy point is not that the 330 and 110 would be inaccurate given the dimensions of 1.75 and 3.00. Rather, my point is that the 3.00 mm diameter is not what is really so; it's actually 2.85 mm and therefore the answer is longer than 110 m.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The 110 meter figure is for 3.0 mm filament that actually is 3.0 mm in diameter. As you (correctly) note, most 3.0 mm filament is often actually closer to 2.85 mm. In that case, the correct figure is indeed around 125 meters. Note that this figure is for PLA filament (see e.g. my answer here). For ABS, being significantly less dense, a 1 kg spool would be around 155 meters.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6557,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,nebogipfel,2.528907649931287,3.7842189781769173,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Is the 110 m length accurate for 3.0 mm 1 kg spool?,\"I've been seeing the 330 m and 110 m length estimates for 1.75 and 3.0 mm spools (of PLA, presumably). But a moment's thought staring at that will raise an obvious question.\n\nUsing πr², we get the area of the filament in square millimeters (rounding to two decimal points)\n\nFor 1.75 it's 2.41 mm²\n\nFor 3.00 it's 7.07 mm²\n\nThen taking the ratio and multiplying:\n\n(2.41/7.07) * 330 m = 112 m which is close enough to 110 m.\n\nBUT as all makers of filament and makers of extruders know, 3.00 mm is just a rounding off of the real dimension, which is 2.85 mm. Now do that:\n\nFor 2.85 it's 6.38 mm²\n\nand:\n\n(2.41/6.38) * 330 m = 125 m which is at least 120 m.\n\nSo, whoever calculated the approximation of 110 m did the calculation based on the rounded rather than actual dimension. What am I missing here?\n\nMy point is not that the 330 and 110 would be inaccurate given the dimensions of 1.75 and 3.00. Rather, my point is that the 3.00 mm diameter is not what is really so; it's actually 2.85 mm and therefore the answer is longer than 110 m.\n\",Trish,\"Let's go about this scientific:\n\n$A_r=\\pi{r}^{2}=\\pi{\\frac{d}{2}}^{2}$\n\nAs a result the crossections are $A_{3}=7.06858\\text{mm}^2=0.0707\\text{cm}^2$, $A_{2.85}=6.3794\\text{mm}^2=0.0638\\text{cm}^2$ and $A_{1.75}=2.40528\\text{mm}^2=0.024\\text{cm}^2$.\n\nVolume of a cylinder is $V_{A_d,l}=\\times {A_d} {l}$. Turned around to get a length from Volume and Area we get $l=\\frac {V_m}{A_d}$, but what is V?\n\nWe know the density of comercial PLA is about $\\rho=1.25 \\frac{\\text g}{\\text{cm}^3}$, and we know $m=\\times V \\rho$. So: $V_m=\\frac{m}{\\rho}=\\frac{1000}{1.25}\\text{cm}^3=800\\text{cm}^3$.\n\nTaking this Volume and using the $l=\\frac {V_m}{A_d}$ we get:\n\n$l_{d=1.75}=33333.33\\frac{\\text{cm}}{\\text{kg}}=333.33\\frac{\\text{m}}{\\text{kg}}$\n\n$l_{d=2.85}=12539.18\\frac{\\text{cm}}{\\text{kg}}=125.39\\frac{\\text{m}}{\\text{kg}}$\n\n$l_{d=3}=11315.41\\frac{\\text{cm}}{\\text{kg}}=113.15\\frac{\\text{m}}{\\text{kg}}$\n\nIf the filament is more on the dense side $(\\rho>1.25\\frac{\\text g}{\\text{cm}^3})$, then it will have a smaller volume and thus be shorter than this estimate.\n\nTo show this better, a graph: This is the length of a filament spool in dependancy of the density. The values were calculated for the usual diameters with their closest neighbors rounded to 0.1 as absolute diameters and run over a broad range of densities commonly used in plastics - 0.7 g/cm³ to 2 g/cm³.\n\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6558,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,nebogipfel,2.1782824847157594,3.530743348684184,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Is there a table or list of tare weights of empty spools of various manufacturers?,\"It would be helpful to me if I knew in advance how much the empty filament spool weighs. \n\nNot having emptied any spool yet, I can't contribute data points, but has anyone compiled a list of empty weights from various manufacturers and sizes?\n\",Greenonline,\"Following on from Sean's excellent answer, here is the (out of date) table in question: \n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6558,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,nebogipfel,2.1782824847157594,3.530743348684184,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Is there a table or list of tare weights of empty spools of various manufacturers?,\"It would be helpful to me if I knew in advance how much the empty filament spool weighs. \n\nNot having emptied any spool yet, I can't contribute data points, but has anyone compiled a list of empty weights from various manufacturers and sizes?\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"Yes, there is a table on Reddit - Empty spool weights for estimating remaining filament which suggests that the norm (in 2015) was between 170 and 330 grams for a 1 kg spool, superficially in a bimodal distribution clustered around the high and low points. Presumably these were for 3 mm filament, this post dating to before the popularity of 1.75 mm...\n\nManufacturer's have an incentive to reduce the mass of their spools, or even ship without spools, since the shipping cost will eat into their profit margin.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6561,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,nebogipfel,2.528907649931287,5.1395978778528955,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.9829738809469584,\"But ... skateboard bearings have OIL in them, and oil is ... bad?\",\"I see plans for various spool holders, either for PLA in the open, or for whatever filament in a dry box, that use 608 bearings. Elsewhere, I see warnings not to oil your filament to make it go through the extruder better, because problems going through mean something else is wrong, and it's better to fix the other thing. So, if I use the 608's, will oil leak on the filament, and is this bad?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Typically, oiling a filament would mean to use a vegetable based or non-petroleum type of lubricant, possibly even PTFE (teflon) or silicone. Those materials will not damage PLA filament. \n\nOiling filament is not the haphazard application of lubricant, however. One drop on the filament sponge guide will last a rather long time and should be given sufficient time to distribute itself in the sponge, helping it along by alternately squeezing and releasing the sponge.\n\nBall bearings of the type you've described will not have oil, unless otherwise modified by the user/owner. The bearings are packed with grease which will not leak out under normal circumstances. Running the bearings at high speed will cause the grease to thin a bit and perhaps drip or if hot enough will \"\"sludge up.\"\" If your bearing grease turns to sludge, the bearing has already gotten hot enough to melt out of your plastic fitting.\n\nFor spool holder applications, you can clean the grease from the bearing with a suitable solvent (denatured alcohol, acetone, soap and hot water in a pinch) and expect little impact on the drag. The spools rotate at such slow speeds and under such small load that the bearings alone will work nearly forever. This recommendation is void in dusty environments.\n\nWith respect to oiling the filament, it's not a bad idea to have a sponge dust catcher that has no oil just as the filament enters the last open location. My bowden extruder system is nearly enclosed and the sponge sits at the very edge of the spool, while a direct extrusion system would have the sponge at the entry to the extruder gears.\n\",3.0411126502294303,0.0\n6561,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,nebogipfel,2.528907649931287,5.1395978778528955,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.9829738809469584,\"But ... skateboard bearings have OIL in them, and oil is ... bad?\",\"I see plans for various spool holders, either for PLA in the open, or for whatever filament in a dry box, that use 608 bearings. Elsewhere, I see warnings not to oil your filament to make it go through the extruder better, because problems going through mean something else is wrong, and it's better to fix the other thing. So, if I use the 608's, will oil leak on the filament, and is this bad?\n\",metacollin,\"Sounds like an instance of bad advice without any real basis in reality. \n\n\nOil is not bad, and generally only bearings specifically being sold for use with skateboards will be oiled. I don't mean all 608 bearings, but rather 608 bearings intended for/marketed to skaters to use with their boards as opposed to general purpose 608 bearings. You can tell if a bearing is oiled vs. packed with grease by spinning it. A greased bearing will stop almost immediately due to the viscosity of the grease. An oiled bearing will spin under its own momentum for a while after you spin it. But, regardless, grease or oil, the chance that it will contaminate filament in any appreciable way is very small. The skin oil on your fingers that gets deposited every time you load the filament is way more significant than accidental bearing leakage, and either way, it doesn't matter. \nThe advice about not oiling your filament is, well, bad advice. Or perhaps it was simply misunderstood. There is nothing wrong with oiling filament if done properly, and every little thing you can do to make the filament extrude with that much less resistance is a good thing. And it is certainly not 'bad' to oil filament, as no matter what, it is going to improve the situation. \n\nWhat that advice is trying to say is that if the extruder is having problems extruding, then oiling the filament is not really a solution. It is never actually necessary to oil filament, and it is not something you should rely on to fix a problem, but rather something that can increase performance. So yes, don't try to make a non-working extruder working by oiling filament. That doesn't mean oiling it is bad, or you shouldn't do it, just remember that at best, it can only hide a problem, but it won't fix it. \nDespite what the other answer to this question says, you cannot 'oil' filament with PTFE lubricant, or any other lubricant that is not actually oil, and the purpose is most definitely not to lubricate the filament. You also do not need to do it constantly, just once in the while. And it is only useful in all-metal hotends. Hotends where a PTFE tube all the way past the heat break will not be hurt by oiling, but it won't get much benefit either. \n\nSo what is the point of oiling if it isn't to lubricate the filament? Well, when certain types of oil (vegetable oil, shortening, canola oil, etc) is heated for a long time at a temperature of 190°C or higher, the fatty acids oxidize and reorganize, or more accurately, polymerize into a new plastic-like layer of molecules. This polymer layer acts as an extremely slick coating that is almost as slippery as a teflon coating. Regardless, it is much lower fiction than bare aluminum or stainless steel - having this coating inside your hotend will lower the drag on the filament that much more, which is always a good thing. \n\nIf something about this sounds familiar, you probably already know about it under a different name - seasoning. You know, that thing people often do to cast iron cookware. Only, it isn't actually specific to cast iron - it works just as well with aluminum or stainless steel. \n\nRepeated exposure to hot oil continues to build on this coating, making it more slippery and durable. The polymer coating actually bonds to the metal. And you aren't lubricating anything, that is not the point, you do not need to constantly oil filament. You can lower the extrusion resistance in all metal hot ends by oiling during the first few prints, then oiling a print every once in a while to build up the coating again (which will slowly wear away over time), but it isn't something you really need or should do all the time. And using too much oil during a print can weaken the print's final strength because any excess oil will mix in with the PLA (or whatever it is you're printing with). \n\nOne final thing - if you do wish to season your hotend, canola oil anecdotally seems to work the best. Using PTFE lubricant will do nothing, and again, the point of oiling filament is to season the hotend, not to actually act as a lubricant.\n\n\nThe important take away here though, is you don't need to worry about any of this. Just use bearings, don't worry too much about keeping filament clean, just have something to clear off dust and other detritus that might be large enough to clog the nozzle. If you needed to be so vigilant as to worry about oil or grease from bearings, we'd all be using rubber gloves to even touch our filament.\n\",3.0411126502294303,0.0\n6711,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,nebogipfel,2.8153892694839717,4.3756321108162615,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.548335113978322,2.880918201452841,Polyurethane-and-steel timing belts?,\"Has anyone tried the steel-reinforced polyurethane timing belts? If so, how do they compare to the rubber ones?\n\",Trish,\"It's a question of what you want to use the belt for.\n\nAll Belts are subject to stress as they run around the motor and idlers and gears and bend. They will get eaten as they are subject to friction against parts, they will stretch as they are subject to tension. All this applies some sort of stress or another on the belt. Anything that is subject to stress wears. And as it wears, it will fail. The question is just: What is your life expectancy? The lifetime expectancy is again dependant on how the belt is used, so usage dictates lifetime of the belt.\n\nEach belt type has an application it is designed for. A bending radius that is to be kept at, a gear it is to be used with, a load it is expected to move, a tension it is expected to uphold, and a lifetime it is expected to serve.\n\nLet's take a short look at some rough ideas what \n\na soft rubber belt without additions\n\nThis is usually a bad choice for printers, but can occasionally be in very cheap kits. This kind of belt has applications. It is for really low loads, it can work tight bends for a long time and provides superb self-tensioning with just a very short tensioning device. On the other side, most rubbers don't take heat well, stretches a lot, wear fast and can only move a light load. If it rubs against a standing object, it squeaks horribly.\n\na medium hard, somewhat elastic belt reinforced with fibers\n\nThe standard belt we often get with printer kits. the fibers lessen the material's stretching ability while offering still some self-tensioning (depending on the fibers). These properties allow to move medium loads yet harder material demands slightly larger bend diameters (not too much, but measurable!). When the piece gets friction against a standing surface the sound will be not that horrible, but the harder rubber might start to shave off, break teeth and destroy the belt after some time. The typical reinforcing is done with cloth, usually cotton, so there are some limits to how much they can take.\n\nreinforcing with aramid fibers\n\nSome fibers are better than others for our applications because of how they stretch and reinforce it. Aramid fibers, for example, are better than cloth. Some consider them as impossible to wear out with the tension in 3D Printing applications alone, but that is not entirely the case. They still stretch under larger loads or on longer lengths enough that it can be a problem (or become one). They also can still be shredded with friction (and heat). For a professional machine, the expected lifetime is quite nice. They are though, but only as good as the rubber used and if properly installed. There are also generally two types: long fibers and short fibers. Long fibers have a somewhat even stretching behavior, while short fibers have totally different stretching behavior. The latter type is looked at in scholarly articles like Yin, Zhou, Lou et al.\n\na hard belt reinforced with fibers\n\nLet's take... Uhm... a toothed belt from a car. I believe some of these are aramid-reinforced, old ones are on cloth cores, most modern ones I know are steel reinforced. It is somewhat hard. By design, it is made to withstand a strong tension at high speeds. It needs somewhat big bending radii for the hard rubber, but that is easily given by the gears and the large teeth don't break easily. Over the lifetime it will slowly stretch due to the temperature it will encounter, till at some point it gets too loose or looses too many teeth as the parameters don't match up with the teeth anymore and they get ground away. It is made to deliver high torque and could move - if something similar was used on a printer-like machine (like a large CNC), a heavy load for a long time, but the machine needs to be made accordingly.\n\nsteel reinforced belt\n\nSteel is going stiffer. Steel reinforcements usually get the stretching parameter to a bare minimum at the cost of increasing their minimum bend and added weight. They can be used to move very heavy loads without the belt starting to slack as it simply can't stretch to give slack on the underside of the belt loop when forces are applied. Steel belts are pretty much Heavy Duty. If you can work with the bending radii belonging to them (as said, usually a little bigger than a similar fiber-reinforced one), you could make use of these properties, for example in a CNC Router with a full spindle or when moving very heavy tool heads.\n\ncarbonfiber reinforced\n\nAnd then there is the super heavy-duty carbon fiber. One can barely stretch it (steel is less stretchy), making these belts super tough in the stretching compartment and granting an extremely long life under most conditions. In comparison to steel, they can work much tighter radii. Usually, they are coupled with urethanes to get a high wear resistance against abrasion. The biggest downside: their price.\n\nBelt Materials\n\nSilicone\n\nSilicone is soft but high temperature resistant but dislikes abrasive forces.\n\nUretane\n\nUrethanes are not the best to handle the heat, but they can handle abrasive forces. They also don't create dust in the same way as other rubbers.\n\nNeoprene\n\nThe most interesting feature of neoprene belts is their reduced noise under work.\n\",3.0411126502294303,0.0\n6711,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,nebogipfel,2.8153892694839717,4.3756321108162615,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.548335113978322,2.880918201452841,Polyurethane-and-steel timing belts?,\"Has anyone tried the steel-reinforced polyurethane timing belts? If so, how do they compare to the rubber ones?\n\",Georg Steiner,\"I have recently changed the standard belts on my Prusa MK3 for the aramid fiber reinforced E3D neoprene belts. Those belts are really tough and hard to cut even with a quality side cutter! They have a much smoother surface and a lot more aramid fibers than the standard belts.\n\nPrior to the change, the belt on the X axis was twisting when changing directions, now it is running straight and smooth. Surface quality has improved a little, the ripples are smaller and more regular. Overall a small but noticeable improvement\n\nP.S. I am using belt tensioners on both x and y axis.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6569,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Alias311,2.528907649931287,4.7470795636690735,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,How to make moving parts not stick together?,\"I am new to the 3D printing world and I would appreciate if someone can give me advice on how to 3D print moving parts without them sticking together. I recently 3D printed the predator pliers from Thingiverse and it came out very nice except for the fact that the parts where stuck together and I could not move any of the pieces. I had to use an Exacto knife to loosen the parts and in doing so my predator pliers broke and I was very sad. \n\nThe printer and the settings that I use are:\n\n\nPowerSpec WanHao Duplicator I3 PLUS 3D Printer \nUltimaker Cura 3.4.1\nBlack PLA Plastic 1.75 mm\n0.4 mm nozzle\n60 °C Bed Temp\n200 °C Extruder Temp\n20 fill (usually-sometimes more)\nLayer height 0.15\n\nUPDATE:\nI printed a PIP from thingiverse and it worked out perfectly. All the parts move. \n\n\",0scar,\"If parts stick together after printing, the positioning or extrusion is not working optimally.\n\nThis can be related to various issues:\n\n\nPositioning of the head is not correct; this could be related to incorrect belt tension, incorrect steps per mm, streched belts.\nThe extrusion process is not working optimal; this could be related to over-extruding (incorrect steps per mm for the extruder, incorrect multiplier in the slicer, filament too hot) or the first layer height is incorrect (too low, so the lines spread out and tough each other). Extruder calibration is explained in more detail in this answer.\n\n\nA very good start to verify what exactly your tolerance problem is is to print this tolerance test. Basically, these are diabolic shaped objects in a slightly larger outer shape object. Please slice this STL file with your favorite slicer to obtain the G-code for your printer. When the print is ready, you use a screwdriver to turn the diabolic shaped objects from large to small tolerance, the last one that does not turn is the maximum tolerance of your printer. So when printing in place hinges, you should use tolerance values higher than the one that did not turn.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n6572,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Steve In CO,3.0576060275493275,5.477782146144508,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,2.9505769891325135,Will a glass bed warp as it is heated?,\"I purchased a glass bed to use with my still-in-transit Ender 3. Since the bed came in before the printer, I pulled it out and used a flat edge ruler to see how flat the glass surface is. \n\nIt appears the glass is slightly \"\"dished\"\" in the center from one side and \"\"raised\"\" in the center on the other side. I am wondering if this is a sign of a defective glass, or if it is likely that the glass may change shape slightly as it is heated?\n\nIf it does change shape, should it be put with the dish side up or down? \n\nLogic would say that if it does change shape, the bottom would probably get hotter since it is against the heater while the top is slightly cooler, so in theory the bottom may expand more \"\"pulling\"\" the center down?\n\nI guess the bottom line is, should I send the glass back as defective or wait until the printer arrives and see what happens when I heat it up?\n\",joshConway,\"TL;DR\n\nYes, glass warps when hot. Use a physical touch sensor and calibrate it out, or swap glass if it's \"\"bad\"\".\n\n\n\nThe further you go into mechanical studies like 3d printing, mills, and lathes, you will find out that nothing is perfectly flat. Everything has a tolerance to it, whether the manufacturer provided it or not. Better manufacturers provide the tolerance data. \n\nAs you have or will find out, yes, glass does warp when heated. That is because you are not warming the glass evenly. When hot and cold spots form in glass, the glass tends to warp up or down, depending how the heat travels. \n\nIt's common for 0.01 mm warp when a glass bed is brought to printing temps (60-100 °C). If one has a larger format bed, like my Vulcanus at 500x500, 0.03 mm changes are possible.\n\nOne can remediate this warping, as it usually appears in the same place during the heat cycle. So if you calibrate after the bed is heated, you should reduce said errors. Another more comprehensive way to fix this, is with a physical touch sensor and create a grid map of the bed geometry. \n\",3.0411126502294303,0.0\n6572,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Steve In CO,3.0576060275493275,5.477782146144508,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,2.9505769891325135,Will a glass bed warp as it is heated?,\"I purchased a glass bed to use with my still-in-transit Ender 3. Since the bed came in before the printer, I pulled it out and used a flat edge ruler to see how flat the glass surface is. \n\nIt appears the glass is slightly \"\"dished\"\" in the center from one side and \"\"raised\"\" in the center on the other side. I am wondering if this is a sign of a defective glass, or if it is likely that the glass may change shape slightly as it is heated?\n\nIf it does change shape, should it be put with the dish side up or down? \n\nLogic would say that if it does change shape, the bottom would probably get hotter since it is against the heater while the top is slightly cooler, so in theory the bottom may expand more \"\"pulling\"\" the center down?\n\nI guess the bottom line is, should I send the glass back as defective or wait until the printer arrives and see what happens when I heat it up?\n\",Himanshu,\"Glass will not change its shape you can watch this interesting video: YouTube - Fix Your Bowed Glass Build Surface - CR-10 3D Printer .\n\nOr simply change your glass. \n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6624,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Steve In CO,3.618048892289167,6.726035381418647,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.306096197889172,Ender 3 nozzle homes off the bed in the Y axis,\"I just received my new Creality Ender 3. I was going through and checking/adjusting everything for alignment, and I noticed that when you \"\"auto home\"\" the print head, the nozzle stops off the front of the print bed by 5-10mm. \n\nIs that normal? \n\nIs it perhaps by design to allow purging the nozzle without dumping on the bed?\n\nIt doesn't appear that there is any way to adjust the Y stop switch without making modifications to it. It also didn't look like there was any easy way to move the bed either.\n\",Trish,\"Yes, this is the \"\"intended\"\" behavior, as the home in relation to the physical limit position is not placed correctly about 7.5mm into the bed in both X and Y.\n\nto correct this, please look at the Recalibrating Home-position for the Ender3\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6624,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Steve In CO,3.618048892289167,6.726035381418647,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.306096197889172,Ender 3 nozzle homes off the bed in the Y axis,\"I just received my new Creality Ender 3. I was going through and checking/adjusting everything for alignment, and I noticed that when you \"\"auto home\"\" the print head, the nozzle stops off the front of the print bed by 5-10mm. \n\nIs that normal? \n\nIs it perhaps by design to allow purging the nozzle without dumping on the bed?\n\nIt doesn't appear that there is any way to adjust the Y stop switch without making modifications to it. It also didn't look like there was any easy way to move the bed either.\n\",0scar,\"Many printer's X/Y endstops are not at the origin of the build plate/heated bed. In the firmware, an offset is defined from the build plate origin to the endstop locations. This is normal, nothing to worry about.\n\nWhen you hook up your printer to your computer over USB, and install a program that can interface with the printer (e.g. PronterFace, OctoPrint, Repetier-Host, etc.) through a so called terminal, you can send the print head to the origin with command G1 X0 Y0. You will then see the head move to the origin, which should normally be the left front corner.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6751,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Steve In CO,3.0576060275493275,4.065321832037903,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,What exactly does automatic bed leveling do?,\"I get the concept of automatic bed leveling...the printer moves around the bed and uses a sensor to identify high and low spots, then \"\"software compensates for differences\"\". \n\nBut what exactly does \"\"compensates\"\" mean? \n\nIt is extruding more material in the low spots to build them up and thinning out the high spots? Is it adding or removing layers? Is it shifting layers as it goes up to compensate tilt? Or...? \n\nIn what ways will this affect the final outcome? Would it be valid to say that if you wanted an automatically leveled bed and dimensional accuracy you should always print to a raft?\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"Last first: use of a raft has nothing to do with bed levelling. It depends only on the features/shape/etc of the object being printed.\n\nNow, as to what the auto-levelling does: the answer is, sadly \"\"it depends.\"\" A simple algorithm will just find the Z-height of the four corners and apply a bilinear correction to Z as a function of {x,y} coordinates. A really good algorithm would map the entire build plate to some designated precision (perhaps 5 mm) and create a 2-dimensional lookup table to adjust Z over a curved build plate. What your printer's levelling software does is more likely the former. \n\nWhy? because if you try to correct over curves & bumps, then you will end up distorting your entire printed object (basically forcing every layer to follow those distorted axes). Far better to have some flattened or \"\"fat\"\" spots in the first layer printed, and then print proper planar layers after that. \n\nExample: I know my bed (AnetA8 aluminum) is slightly bowed, peak in the center; so after levelling the overall bed I try to set the Z-zero so the outer extremes of my object have good adhesion, even if the center region of the first couple layers ends up non-extruding because the nozzle touches the bed. \n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n6751,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Steve In CO,3.0576060275493275,4.065321832037903,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,What exactly does automatic bed leveling do?,\"I get the concept of automatic bed leveling...the printer moves around the bed and uses a sensor to identify high and low spots, then \"\"software compensates for differences\"\". \n\nBut what exactly does \"\"compensates\"\" mean? \n\nIt is extruding more material in the low spots to build them up and thinning out the high spots? Is it adding or removing layers? Is it shifting layers as it goes up to compensate tilt? Or...? \n\nIn what ways will this affect the final outcome? Would it be valid to say that if you wanted an automatically leveled bed and dimensional accuracy you should always print to a raft?\n\",0scar,\"A probe or even manual (e.g. through LCD panel) leveling results in either a reference plane or mesh. This depends on the firmware and the options set in the firmware. Basically, this process maps the geometry of your build plate. Once it knows this geometry, printing an object results in the head following the height contours of the mapped build plate. Generally the following of the height contours is levelled out in the first few millimeters, which is also set in the firmware. This means that after a few millimeters of printing the height is not adjusted anymore, but is kept at a single level.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n8022,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Steve In CO,3.0576060275493275,5.2070032228203535,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,3.548335113978322,2.6553159206313057,\"First 3 mm prints poorly, then fine after that\",\"I have an Ender 3 that I have been pretty happy with so far, however it recently started an odd behavior and I can't figure out what's causing it. \n\nWhat happens is that the first ~3 mm of the print comes out \"\"sloppy\"\". After that, everything clears up and it prints fine for the rest of the print. (Although it perhaps looks a little under extruded on the top layer)\n\n\n\nIt looks almost like it's over extruding. But if that's the case, why would it only be for the first 3 mm? Then the top layer looking under extruded makes that possibility even more unlikely.\n\nThis is consistently happening regardless of what I am printing, the brand of filament (I only print PLA), or the bed temp or hot end temp. I've tried tweaking with the bed leveling and giving a little more gap on the first layer, but that doesn't seem to change anything either. I also calibrated the extrusion multiplier and it's spot on now. \n\nI use Ultimaker Cura 3.6 as my slicer. I tried resetting back to defaults to see if maybe I had inadvertently changed something but that didn't help either.\n\nI have done a few upgrades - Marlin firmware, Capricorn tubing, glass bed, replaced the (broken) plastic extruder with one of the metal ones, new PTFE fittings. I didn't notice the problem until recently so I can't say if it started corresponding with any of those upgrades. \n\nWhen I first got it, the prints came out beautifully from the first layer, so this is really frustrating me. I'd like to get it back the way it was.\n\nAny suggestions on where to look?\n\nUpdate: I did some slightly more controlled experimemts and I did get it looking a little better. It does seem related mostly to bed tempurature. The cooler I make the bed, the better it looks. However as it gets cooler, the prints are also starting to warp and break loose, so the print ends up failing completely. I had a hard time getting a successful print below about 45 degrees, and even at that temperature it still isn't completely clean. I'm using glue stick for adhesion and it just doesn't seem able to hold it without some heat. I traditionally have run around 50 degrees before this problem started though, so it seems odd I have to drop below that now.\n\nAlso, for more info, the cube dimensions are pretty close in the X and Y, but were about .5mm short in the Z. So the layers do seem to be settling. \n\nI did check the bed temp with a non-contact thermometer and it was consistent with what the printer reported, so it doesnt seem to be a bad thermostat throwing things off.\n\",silver,\"It looks like you need to calibrate your Z0 by adjusting your endstop height. It's starting too low.\n\nI think you are printing your first layer too low, and underextruding to compensate. Do the paper test with your Z at 0, confirm it's good. Do the 100 mm extrude test and confirm it's pulling in exactly 100 mm. Measure your filament diameter in several places and make sure the slicer value matches.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8022,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Steve In CO,3.0576060275493275,5.2070032228203535,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,3.548335113978322,2.6553159206313057,\"First 3 mm prints poorly, then fine after that\",\"I have an Ender 3 that I have been pretty happy with so far, however it recently started an odd behavior and I can't figure out what's causing it. \n\nWhat happens is that the first ~3 mm of the print comes out \"\"sloppy\"\". After that, everything clears up and it prints fine for the rest of the print. (Although it perhaps looks a little under extruded on the top layer)\n\n\n\nIt looks almost like it's over extruding. But if that's the case, why would it only be for the first 3 mm? Then the top layer looking under extruded makes that possibility even more unlikely.\n\nThis is consistently happening regardless of what I am printing, the brand of filament (I only print PLA), or the bed temp or hot end temp. I've tried tweaking with the bed leveling and giving a little more gap on the first layer, but that doesn't seem to change anything either. I also calibrated the extrusion multiplier and it's spot on now. \n\nI use Ultimaker Cura 3.6 as my slicer. I tried resetting back to defaults to see if maybe I had inadvertently changed something but that didn't help either.\n\nI have done a few upgrades - Marlin firmware, Capricorn tubing, glass bed, replaced the (broken) plastic extruder with one of the metal ones, new PTFE fittings. I didn't notice the problem until recently so I can't say if it started corresponding with any of those upgrades. \n\nWhen I first got it, the prints came out beautifully from the first layer, so this is really frustrating me. I'd like to get it back the way it was.\n\nAny suggestions on where to look?\n\nUpdate: I did some slightly more controlled experimemts and I did get it looking a little better. It does seem related mostly to bed tempurature. The cooler I make the bed, the better it looks. However as it gets cooler, the prints are also starting to warp and break loose, so the print ends up failing completely. I had a hard time getting a successful print below about 45 degrees, and even at that temperature it still isn't completely clean. I'm using glue stick for adhesion and it just doesn't seem able to hold it without some heat. I traditionally have run around 50 degrees before this problem started though, so it seems odd I have to drop below that now.\n\nAlso, for more info, the cube dimensions are pretty close in the X and Y, but were about .5mm short in the Z. So the layers do seem to be settling. \n\nI did check the bed temp with a non-contact thermometer and it was consistent with what the printer reported, so it doesnt seem to be a bad thermostat throwing things off.\n\",Steve In CO,\"After much trial and error, I think I finally figured out the solution. \n\nEven though I could get better prints by tweaking with the temperatures, I could never totally eliminate the problem. The better I made it look by cooling down the bed, the more likely it would break free and the print would fail completely.\n\nAt one point though I happened to print something taller, and interestingly enough a similar band of ugly layers appeared higher up in the print as well.\n\nSo I started a closer inspection of the Z axis rollers. The Ender 3 has a funky setup where there are 3 rollers at each end of the X axis. Two are fixed and one can be adjusted to change the tension of the rollers against the Z rails. What I discovered was that a couple of the non-adjustable rollers weren't terribly tight and could be turned by fairly easily with my fingers. At the same time, the adjustable rollers are starting to wear a groove. \n\nOn a hunch, I decided to try re-adjusting the tension so that I could no longer turn any of them with my fingers. It definitely had an effect...now the bed was too high and it would no longer extrude the first layer because the nozzle was too close. This required going through the complete bed leveling process to get it back in spec. \n\nOnce I got it re-leveled, low and behold it's printing like new! The height is coming out spot-on too.\n\n\n\nI suspect what was happening is that the rollers were too loose and at certain heights they we allowing movement in the Z axis. Perhaps there is a flat spot that was allowing the X rail to droop, then once it got past the flat spot it would print cleanly again.\n\nI haven't printed anything tall enough yet to see if the bad layers still show up higher in the print, if they do, I think it is probably a sign that I need to replace some rollers. In the mean time, I'm thrilled to be getting decent prints again!\n\nUpdate: This ended up NOT being the solution to my problem. However it does seem to be related. As I mentioned in the comments, the problem returned after a few days of the printer sitting unused. I have since been able to get it printing better by going the opposite route - loosening up the Z axis bearings. At the moment it is printing somewhat better, but still not perfect. I am also having under extrusion issues when may or may not be related. I have ordered some new rollers to see if that helps since some of them had a pretty good groove worn in them. \n\nAnother Update: I replaced several of the Z rollers that had become grooved with some that claimed to be a little harder material. So far this seems to have mostly cleared up the issue. I have now completed several large print jobs and the first layers have been coming out pretty good. \n\nI also ended up taking out the Capricorn tubing on the extruder. The extruder skips were becoming quite bad and causing under extrusion issues throughout the print. The Capricorn has a little smaller inside diameter than the stock tubing and I wondered if it was too tight on some filaments. I went back to some plain white cheap PTFE and that problem mostly went away as well. I still hear the \"\"click\"\" once in a while, but it is fairly rare. I may try tweaking the motor current a little to see if I can get rid of that. All in all though, the printer seems to be printing about as good as it ever has.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n8519,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Steve In CO,3.452496054252184,3.8756049100976995,2.7799718631987322,2.011441651225199,3.548335113978322,3.9829738809469584,Stringing during travel on first layer with Ultimaker Cura,\"I'm using Ultimaker Cura 3.6.0 and I am getting some annoying \"\"stringing\"\" on the first layer. This isn't new to 3.6.0 as I have seen it on pretty much every version I have used.\n\nWhat appears to be happening is that as it is laying down the first layer, it doesn't retract as it moves from one area to another. This leaves a trail of filament which then shows up as an unattractive line embedded in the print. (ignore the other extrusion issues in the example below)\n\nA similar thing happens on the top layer. It ruins the look of the nice smooth bottom I get from a glass bed. \n\nI don't have stringing issues elsewhere on my prints.\n\nI thought at one time I had seen a setting to control it, like \"\"retraction during travel\"\" or something, but now I can't seem to find anything that sounds like it in the dizzying array of settings. \n\nDoes anyone know of a way to get rid it these lines?\n\n\n\",0scar,\"Yes, if you are using the Combing Mode option, please ensure it doesn't do this in the skin, for a leak/string free first layer, it is required to set the Combing Mode to Not in Skin.\n\n\n\nWhen the mode of the option is set to Not in Skin, combing is \"\"off\"\" for the skin; this implies that the material will retract and move in a straight line to the next print area. When material is retracted (and when properly tuned for your printer), the nozzle will not leak filament causing those (deposited) travel movement lines as indicated by the OP.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n6574,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joel Coehoorn,2.528907649931287,4.609005589293393,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Can I use a 0 mm top layer thickness in Ultimaker Cura to create an open box?,\"Let's say I'm modeling a simple open-top rectangular box to slice via Cura for printing. Normally I would set up a solid box of the size I want in the modeler, and then subtract a slightly smaller box to create the final result.\n\n\nIs it possible to get the same results with Cura by instead only modeling the simpler solid box if set my wall lines and thickness for the base and sides, set the infill to 0 %, and then set the Top Layers to 0 and/or Top Thickness to 0 mm? \nHow might that change the resulting print? \nHow will that impact the total height of the print?\n\n\",0scar,\"Yes that will work in Ultimaker Cura exactly as you say.\n\nSo if you have a solid model of a cube, you select wall thickness, bottom thickness, 0 % infill, and no top layers or top layer size of 0 mm. You will then end up with a box without a top layer, but with walls reaching up to the height of your model.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n6576,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joel Coehoorn,3.618048892289167,4.72408446767597,1.7539669625835614,6.034324953675596,2.746326330407206,1.9125876683661465,What kinds of gaps/tolerances should I use when designing pieces that fit together?,\"Let's say I'm modeling a simple box with a lid. Just as an example, we'll say the outer edge along the top of the box is 50mm x 50mm. With 3D modeling software, it's easy to build a lid for this box to surround the top with an inner edge size of also exactly 50mm x 50mm ...but this seems like a bad idea. Surely I'll want some kind of of gap, to ensure an easy on/off. An exact fit seems like it's asking for trouble.\n\n\nHow much gap do we leave for this kind of thing? \nIs it related to nozzle size? \nI suppose it also matters how tightly you want to fit, though I expect in cases where a tight fit matters some kind of snap or clip would be used. \nAre draft prints with larger layer sizes useful for figuring this, or do the rough layers make things seem tighter than they'll be in a final print?\n\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"Yes, some clearance is necessary. Even if you were machining perfect metal parts, you would want a clearance gap (and make an allowance for mis-alignment along the Z axis too, long joints can bind quite easily).\n\nIn addition to this, you need to make a small allowance for the walls bulging slightly under the extrusion pressure (layer height being less than the nozzle diameter).\n\nOther factors to take into account are layer-change ooze (which often makes a small seam appear), and ripple effects resulting from acceleration. This means that even once you have tested the gap that a specific model requires on your printer, you can't rely on the same gap working perfectly when you design another model. If you require rotational symmetry in your fit, it will be harder to get a good tight joint to be reliable.\n\nSometimes a print-in-place design can give you a similar effect to a clip together design, but permitting a more positive retention\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6576,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joel Coehoorn,3.618048892289167,4.72408446767597,1.7539669625835614,6.034324953675596,2.746326330407206,1.9125876683661465,What kinds of gaps/tolerances should I use when designing pieces that fit together?,\"Let's say I'm modeling a simple box with a lid. Just as an example, we'll say the outer edge along the top of the box is 50mm x 50mm. With 3D modeling software, it's easy to build a lid for this box to surround the top with an inner edge size of also exactly 50mm x 50mm ...but this seems like a bad idea. Surely I'll want some kind of of gap, to ensure an easy on/off. An exact fit seems like it's asking for trouble.\n\n\nHow much gap do we leave for this kind of thing? \nIs it related to nozzle size? \nI suppose it also matters how tightly you want to fit, though I expect in cases where a tight fit matters some kind of snap or clip would be used. \nAre draft prints with larger layer sizes useful for figuring this, or do the rough layers make things seem tighter than they'll be in a final print?\n\n\",dgrat,\"I usually print a test cube with different wall thicknesses and calculate the average deviation. This I use as tolerance. However, I do not believe that many belt driven cartesian printers can perform much better than +/- 0.1 to 0.25 mm along the XY-axis. Consequently, I would suggest to use something between 0.1 to 0.25 mm. If it is more than 0.5 mm you have an issue with the mechanics.\n\",0.0,0.0\n6592,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joel Coehoorn,3.452496054252184,4.301998074222566,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,How to determine shell thickness for parts?,\"Let's say you're printing a container or some other object with no infill. What's a good rule of thumb for how thick to make the outside? I'm looking for something along the lines of millimeters thick per square inch of area.\n\nI'm thinking about PLA right now, but answers for ABS and other materials are welcome, too.\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"As alluded to in 0scar's answer, it is important to stick to multiples of your nozzle width for thin shells. If you try to print a 1mm wall with a 0.4mm nozzle, you give the slicer a bit of a challenge in filling the joint between the two outer faces. Maybe it can print a half-width line, by under extruding, maybe not - but a 0.8mm wall is likely to be stronger.\n\nSo long as the slicer has more than 3 nozzle widths to play with, it is able to add diagonal fill to build up a solid form (as hinted in this comment on github for cura)\n\nThe answer to the question depends completely on the rigidity required. A single (vase) wall can work, particularly for a curved object - but you might find that a stronger lip is required. Although 2 or 3 perimeters will flex, they may be strong enough for your application. \n\nAbove this, you may be better off with a 2-sided wall. 2 perimeters each side with a 1mm gap (and a bit of infill) is comparable to a 6 perimeter solid wall due to the increased overall thickness and the compression/extension multiplication. I rarely go above 3 perimeters - if I need extra strength, I resort to punching holes like the slots in this part. \n\n\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n6592,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joel Coehoorn,3.452496054252184,4.301998074222566,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,How to determine shell thickness for parts?,\"Let's say you're printing a container or some other object with no infill. What's a good rule of thumb for how thick to make the outside? I'm looking for something along the lines of millimeters thick per square inch of area.\n\nI'm thinking about PLA right now, but answers for ABS and other materials are welcome, too.\n\",0scar,\"This totally depends on what you think is acceptable for your print, and what the usage of the print is: is it a structural/functional part or just for aesthetic purposes. There is no general rule of thumb for that. Basically this is a design issue.\n\nIf it has to be stiff and may not flex much you would require to use more walls to give it more rigidity. Less if it is not that important.\n\nWhen using infill and depending of the part, 0.8 to 1.2 mm walls are frequently used for nozzle sizes of 0.4 mm, without infill you could use the same values, but need to take less rigidity for granted. Add more walls when you need it to be more rigid. Note that the larger the wall surface area becomes (height over width), the easier a wall can buckle under load; increase the wall count to counteract.\n\nIn your case (design of a container) I would consider what the purpose of the container is; e.g. how big is it, how much weight is it going to contain (e.g. heavy nuts and bolts, or left over filament pieces), is it stackable, etc. etc. etc.. As a final thought, note that you can play with the design as well, a straight box/container is less stiff than a box with some curved edges or stiffeners. An example of a stackable container is e.g. this:\n\n\n\nThe indents on the walls of this container give it more rigidity, these walls are in the range of 2 to 3 perimeters.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n6600,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joel Coehoorn,1.726248027126092,4.521445274206295,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.3995491493854546,How thick is 0.1 mm?,\"I have a printer with a 0.1 mm typical layer thickness. Of course I can choose some different sizes in Cura or other slicing software, but most prints on this machine will be .1mm. In my (admittedly limited) experience thus far, the 0.1 mm seems typical for other printers, too.\n\nI want to get a sense of just how thick this is. I know about the paper trick for leveling the print bed, but my understanding is the first layer pushes into the bed a little, meaning it's less than 0.1 mm and so paper isn't a good example for the typical layer. \n\nIs there a similar item with close to 0.1 mm thickness I can use to visualize this?\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"Maybe a better way to visualise 0.1mm is to explain that it only becomes really visible on a shallow slope. A 10 degree slope will place one layer boundary every 8mm, and these steps will probably be visible on a print.\n\nFor a sphere, such as the 3D-hubs marvin, this means that the top portion will have a clear layering, but the majority of the shape should have minimal visible layers. For example, this was printed at 0.1mm layer as a test:\n\nYou could also say that the layer is about the same as the embossing on a typical coin (using the same photo as a reference), but realise that the resolution of embossing is greater.\n\nLooking inside the eyes of this model demonstrates how a gentle slope exposes the presence of layers.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n6600,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joel Coehoorn,1.726248027126092,4.521445274206295,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.3995491493854546,How thick is 0.1 mm?,\"I have a printer with a 0.1 mm typical layer thickness. Of course I can choose some different sizes in Cura or other slicing software, but most prints on this machine will be .1mm. In my (admittedly limited) experience thus far, the 0.1 mm seems typical for other printers, too.\n\nI want to get a sense of just how thick this is. I know about the paper trick for leveling the print bed, but my understanding is the first layer pushes into the bed a little, meaning it's less than 0.1 mm and so paper isn't a good example for the typical layer. \n\nIs there a similar item with close to 0.1 mm thickness I can use to visualize this?\n\",Davo,\"Sure. Get a 0.1mm thick feeler gauge. \n\nhttp://duckduckgo.com/?q=feeler+gauge+.1mm\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6602,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joel Coehoorn,3.267423727073639,3.325948129527765,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.771436658049143,Does Cura have an algorithm for any infill percentage or does it just have specific patterns?,\"Looking in the Cura interface, I can set any whole number 0-100 for the infill percentage. Does Cura have an algorithm to calculate a pattern for any of those possible values, or does it have a few patterns where it selects the closest one?\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"I fear I'm going to deny your question. The infil percentage and the infil pattern are two orthogonal properties, both of which contribute to the strength, density, mass, and print time of an object. Since there's no way for an algo to \"\"know\"\" what your desired outcome is, this can't be done.\n\nNote - I used 'orthogonal' in the Hilbert sense, meaning neither property is a function of the other. \n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n6602,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joel Coehoorn,3.267423727073639,3.325948129527765,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.771436658049143,Does Cura have an algorithm for any infill percentage or does it just have specific patterns?,\"Looking in the Cura interface, I can set any whole number 0-100 for the infill percentage. Does Cura have an algorithm to calculate a pattern for any of those possible values, or does it have a few patterns where it selects the closest one?\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"Infill serves two main purposes. These don't seem to map particularly well to the available controls.\n\nAdding strength to the part The more plastic your part has inside, the stronger it will be. At least, that is the simplistic assumption. In fact, it seems that infill is not a particularly effective way of strengthening a part (compared for example with thicker walls and structural design features). What is apparent is that some infill patterns are stronger in certain directions, some are more isotropic, and some are just weak.\n\nSupporting upper layers Without infill, any top faces on a model will involve bridging, so there is a trade-off between infill density, the number of top layers, and the quality of the top surface of your print. To reflect this function, slicers allow you to incrementally increase the infill density as you approach a top surface. This is particularly useful in a model that has a large inner void which does not otherwise need to be filled.\n\nIn addition to affecting the infill strength, adjusting the infill pattern can influence the points at which infill connects to the walls. For complex shapes this might affect how successful the print is. There are also other parameters which you can adjust (overlap, orientation).\n\nThe 'best' infill settings are influenced by the requirements of infill, and the 'success' metric does not appear to have a sharp response that would be useful in performing an optimisation.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n6644,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joel Coehoorn,2.528907649931287,3.4943961588206536,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,Show the time index in Cura Layer View playback,\"Cura has a layer view feature that lets you watch a simulation of the extruder head as it lays down material at each layer. Is it possible to get Cura to show a time stamp as it does this? That would let me set reminders to check a print just at certain critical times.\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"If I may interpret your question a bit, and add alternatives to Sean H's suggestions. I agree that any attempt to estimate elapsed time per layer is doomed. \n\nPerhaps you should just look at the LayerView to determine the critical layers of interest. Then edit the gcode file in a text editor. Locate the start of the layer in question, and insert a PAUSE command (as well as whatever other actions your firmware supports, in case you can actually send an audible alarm or something). \n\nIf you really just want to print a subsection of the item, you're better off removing the unwanted parts in MeshMixer/MeshLab/whateverCAD , and slicing just the part you want to produce. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6644,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joel Coehoorn,2.528907649931287,3.4943961588206536,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,Show the time index in Cura Layer View playback,\"Cura has a layer view feature that lets you watch a simulation of the extruder head as it lays down material at each layer. Is it possible to get Cura to show a time stamp as it does this? That would let me set reminders to check a print just at certain critical times.\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"These estimates tend to be very approximate, even if Cura has the accurate acceleration values for your firmware. An error of 100% is not unusual.\n\nWhat you probably want is an alarm at a specific layer (a few before the critical ones). You might be able to add this to Octoprint fairly easily - it does support plugins which can provide (for example) pushbullet notifications.\n\nI'm not sure that 'critical' points are much more likely to fail than other less predictable things (like bed adheesion failure, extruder jams, filament breaks) - unless you're testing features (and then hopefully you can print only a slice of the part).\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n6784,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joel Coehoorn,3.267423727073639,5.811932418230746,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.265283966335819,\"How do I know when filament is getting old, and what things can I do to correct for it?\",\"I've heard I should store filament in sealed container, preferably with a desiccant. \n\nBut let's say I let a spool get a little old on the printer, or I purchased a filament spool that was old or improperly packaged. How would I know? How would this impact prints (what kind of symptoms would I see)? What things could I do (perhaps in the slicer) to correct for this and prolong the life of marginal filament?\n\nAnd the corollary... in a typical environment, how long can filament be left out without suffering from the exposure?\n\nI'm thinking mainly about PLA, but responses for ABS and other materials are useful, too.\n\",mbmcavoy,\"The primary issue with long-term exposure of filament to the environment is that it will absorb water moisture from the air. When a filament that has absorbed water is passing though the hot end of a printer, the water will turn to steam and cause problems with extrusion:\n\n\nSmall bubbles of steam can form, causing extrusion to sputter - you might hear a sizzling noise and have poor consistency.\nLarge steam bubbles can cause significant oozing followed by no extrusion.\nExtreme cases can cause mysterious jams that seem to clear themselves (the extruder cannot overcome the steam pressure).\n\n\nIn short, this will cause terrible print quality and failed prints. As the effects are not consistent, there is nothing that can be done by slicer settings to \"\"recalibrate\"\" for filament that has absorbed water.\n\nThis can be avoided by storing filament in an air-tight container with desiccant to ensure low humidity. Some people use \"\"dry boxes\"\" that allow the spool to be mounted inside while filament can be passed to the printer, so there is minimal exposure even while the spool is in use.\n\nIf you do suspect that your filament has absorbed moisture, you can dry it out, by placing the spool in a warm oven or in a food dehydrator for a few hours. If you weight it before and after, you should find that it weighs several grams less afterwards. WARNING: It is important that the temperature does not soften the plastic at all, or it can become distorted or bind on the spool. Most ovens will peak well above the set temperature as the thermostat cycles. Of course, fully melting a roll of filament could destroy your oven or cause a fire.\n\nIt's hard to say how much environmental exposure is too much, as every filament and environment is different. When I started out, I had several spools of PLA that I stored in the open for months. I didn't think I was having any problems, but I was also learning much and improving my printer settings at the same time. After getting PETG, it became unusable with oozing and jams after about two weeks but a few hours in my oven was a miracle cure! I then dried some PLA as well, and I found that print quality did improve, but not amazingly so. I have not used ABS, but in theory it is less hygroscopic than PLA, so it is probably not very sensitive to exposure.\n\nI set up a dry storage box, and I am careful to always store PETG or my \"\"good\"\" PLA when I'm not actively using it. I have a couple rolls of PLA that I don't like as much anyway and generally just use for draft prints, and I don't really worry about it that much.\n\nNote: An object that has been printed will also absorb moisture, but in general this isn't a problem.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n6784,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joel Coehoorn,3.267423727073639,5.811932418230746,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.265283966335819,\"How do I know when filament is getting old, and what things can I do to correct for it?\",\"I've heard I should store filament in sealed container, preferably with a desiccant. \n\nBut let's say I let a spool get a little old on the printer, or I purchased a filament spool that was old or improperly packaged. How would I know? How would this impact prints (what kind of symptoms would I see)? What things could I do (perhaps in the slicer) to correct for this and prolong the life of marginal filament?\n\nAnd the corollary... in a typical environment, how long can filament be left out without suffering from the exposure?\n\nI'm thinking mainly about PLA, but responses for ABS and other materials are useful, too.\n\",0scar,\"Moisture creeps into the filament when PLA is exposed for a long time to a humid environment. This is audible like popping bubbles when heated in the hotend and does worsen the print quality. The moisture causes a noticeable property as it breaks the long molecular chains of the thermoplastic material. Once this has happened, its effect is irreversible. \n\nThe effects of this moisture breaking the long molecular chains results in a more brittle filament; it can even snap during feeding, leading to unpleasant results like unfinished prints. If the filament snaps/breaks when you bend it, instead of folding, your filament has taken up moisture.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7880,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joel Coehoorn,2.1782824847157594,3.178518415635008,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,How specific can I get setting layer heights?,\"When choosing a layer height, I know that often you go as fine as your printer will do for better precision, but sometimes you go a little thicker, for speed, for example.\n\nI also see 0.1 mm and 0.2 mm as common thicknesses.\n\nWhat are my options here? When I'm working on a part where I want to print a draft piece, and the quality matters less, can I set it to 0.15 mm? 0.11 mm? The Ultimaker Cura slicer I normally use will let me put in almost anything, but what can it really do? If I can use values in between simple 0.1 mm increments, are there reasons I might want to do so?\n\nFor reference, I have a Monoprice Maker Select Plus with a 0.4 mm nozzle and, again, Ultimaker Cura as the slicer. But more general answers for other printer types and slicers are also encouraged. I want to know about this generally, and not just for one printer.\n\",Joel Coehoorn,\"Let's start with the stepper motors used to move the z-axis. Most printers use a Nema-17 motor, and most Nema-17 motors turn 1.8° per step. For the motors that don't use 1.8°, almost all of them are .9°, such that assuming 1.8° is pretty safe for most us (if you have a .9° motor and wrongly assume 1.8°, the motor will just take two steps instead of one). \n\nBut these motors don't move the print head or bed directly. Rather, they will turn a threaded rod to lift or lower the necessary part. We need to figure out the linear distance traveled along the rod per step. \n\nThere are two ways to determine this. First, we can look at the threads on the rod, and think about the linear distance traveled if the rod turns one complete revolution. use a sharpie marker to trace a thread, and then measure the distance. \n\nAlternatively, if we check the specs for the rod in terms of threads and pitch. Most 3D printers use 8 mm rods, but looking at my own printer these aren't standard metric threads. Indeed, the pitch can vary quite a bit from printer to printer. Both 2 mm and 3 mm pitch is common, with the number of threads on the rod varying from 1 to 4. To find the linear distance of a revolution, you multiply the threads by the pitch. A 3 mm pitch with 1 thread has a linear distance of 3 mm. A 2 mm pitch with 4 threads has a linear distance of 8 mm.\n\nWith either method, we know the linear distance for one complete revolution (360°). But a single step only moves a small portion of that: 1.8°. Thankfully, this works out to an even number: 360/1.8 = 200. There are 200 steps per revolution.\n\nNow we know enough to figure out the step distance. The math looks like this:\n\nStepDistance = (RodPitch*RodThreads) / 200 \n\n\nAs an example 2 mm pitch and 4 threads produces this expression:\n\n(2 * 4) / 200\n\n\nand the final result is:\n\n.04 mm per step\n\n\nThose values are common, but not universal, so you need to know what numbers to plug in for your printer. \n\nYou should also be aware that many stepper motors can take half steps or even divide a single step up to 256 times. If you can watch your printer smoothly move from very low to very high, or vice versa, without jerking for each step, this is what it's doing. That means your printer may be able to make adjustments as fine as .00015625mm. At this point, we're down in nano-meter territory. I think it's probably best to assume your printer wants to take at least a half step when moving from layer to layer.\n\nNow lets look at applying this .04 mm per step value to a real printer. Please remember: this is just an example, where the .04 mm number is based off a specific rod type. You need to know the values for your specific z-axis rods.\n\nLet's say you have a printer that advertises a .1 mm minimum layer height and a .4 mm nozzle. Given the .04 mm steps, you might do much better actually using .12 mm layers, which is an exact multiple of .04 mm. But then, if we consider half steps, .1 mm could be just fine. On the other end of the range, we don't really want to go above 75% of our nozzle width. That's .3 mm. Given a .04 mm step height, a better max is really .28 mm... but, again, considering half steps, we could in theory choose to do the exact .3 mm height. \n\nThe main thing I want to take away here is for when you're looking for an in-between layer height: .1 mm is too slow, but .2 mm is too course. It's probably best to bump up the layer in exact half-steps. For this example, that's .02 mm increments. So after .1 mm we try .12 mm, then .14 mm, and so on. Finer adjustments may be possible, but there's a power of two law at play here, so keep dividing things in half, rather than by 10ths. If you don't get good results this way, try assuming full steps, and start at .12 mm for the layer height, then go to .16 mm, and so on.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7880,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joel Coehoorn,2.1782824847157594,3.178518415635008,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,How specific can I get setting layer heights?,\"When choosing a layer height, I know that often you go as fine as your printer will do for better precision, but sometimes you go a little thicker, for speed, for example.\n\nI also see 0.1 mm and 0.2 mm as common thicknesses.\n\nWhat are my options here? When I'm working on a part where I want to print a draft piece, and the quality matters less, can I set it to 0.15 mm? 0.11 mm? The Ultimaker Cura slicer I normally use will let me put in almost anything, but what can it really do? If I can use values in between simple 0.1 mm increments, are there reasons I might want to do so?\n\nFor reference, I have a Monoprice Maker Select Plus with a 0.4 mm nozzle and, again, Ultimaker Cura as the slicer. But more general answers for other printer types and slicers are also encouraged. I want to know about this generally, and not just for one printer.\n\",Dmitry Kasatsky,\"\nThe thicker the layer, the smaller the number of interlayer contact zones (this is a weak point), the higher the strength of the part.\nFor good interlayer adhesion, the thickness of the layer should not exceed half the diameter of the nozzle (this is pure geometry). The recommended value is 0.8 * 0.5 * D.\nThere is an opinion that the thickness of the layer should be a multiple of the height of the Z climb to one full engine step (in order to avoid accumulation of error).\n\n\nThus, for an engine with a step of 1.8 degrees and a screw with a step of 8 mm per revolution (most common configuration of Z-axis), the layer thickness must be a multiple of 0.04 mm. For a nozzle with a diameter of 0.4 mm, the recommended layer thickness is 0.16 mm, maximum valid is 0.2 mm.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n8184,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joel Coehoorn,2.8153892694839717,4.897529024091038,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,Move print bed to front at the end of a print rather than the back,\"I have a Monoprice Maker Select Plus, currently using Ultimaker Cura 3.6.0 with the default settings for a Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus. Right now when a print finishes, the bed retreats towards the back of the machine. I'd rather present the bed forward for easier part removal.\n\nHere is my ending G-Code:\n\n\nM104 S0 ;extruder heater off \nG91 ;relative positioning\nG1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure\nG1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more\nG28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way\nM84 ;steppers off\nG90 ;absolute positioning\n\n\nIt looks like I need to change that G28 line third from the bottom, but I'm not sure what to change it to. I've not yet done any g-code manipulation of my own. I don't know what units it's using, and it looks like it still has relative positioning, so even then I don't know it's a good idea to just set it for the max size of the bed. \n\nSo how can I change this code to move the bed as I want?\n\",0scar,\"Note that this reference states that:\n\n\n Because the behavior of G28 is unspecified, it is recommended not to automatically include G28 in your ending GCode. On a Cartesian this will result in damaging the printed object. If you need to move the carriage at the completion of a print, use G0 or G1.\n\n\nSo you need to use a G0 or G1 move.\n\nWhen using Ultimaker Cura (like many other slicers), there is built in functionality known as keywords with a complete list found here.\n\nThe keyword machine_depth is the one that is of use to you, embed this in your end G-code in between curly brackets and it will expand to the bed size of your machine (replacing G28 X0 Y0):\n\nG1 X0 Y{machine_depth}\n\nFor me this compiles to (e.g. for my coreXY printer):\n\nG1 X0 Y300\n\nTo set the speed, just add the following command prior to the one above:\n\nG1 F2500\n\nAdding this line before the actual move ensures that the speed is constant, if F2500 would have been included in the move command (like G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} F2500), this defines the end speed, it would start moving at the last speed value prior to the move.\n\nThis results in adding the following lines in your endscript:\n\n\nG1 F2500\nG1 X0 Y{machine_depth}\n\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n8184,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joel Coehoorn,2.8153892694839717,4.897529024091038,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,Move print bed to front at the end of a print rather than the back,\"I have a Monoprice Maker Select Plus, currently using Ultimaker Cura 3.6.0 with the default settings for a Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus. Right now when a print finishes, the bed retreats towards the back of the machine. I'd rather present the bed forward for easier part removal.\n\nHere is my ending G-Code:\n\n\nM104 S0 ;extruder heater off \nG91 ;relative positioning\nG1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure\nG1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more\nG28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way\nM84 ;steppers off\nG90 ;absolute positioning\n\n\nIt looks like I need to change that G28 line third from the bottom, but I'm not sure what to change it to. I've not yet done any g-code manipulation of my own. I don't know what units it's using, and it looks like it still has relative positioning, so even then I don't know it's a good idea to just set it for the max size of the bed. \n\nSo how can I change this code to move the bed as I want?\n\",Lux Claridge,\"You're correct that the G28 line should be changed. What I would do is the following:\n\nM104 S0 ;extruder heater off \nG91 ;relative positioning\nG1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure\nG1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more\nG28 X0 ;move X to min endstop, so the head is out of the way\nG90 ;absolute positioning\nG1 Y200 ;Move bed forward\nM84 ;steppers off\n\n\nThis way your X axis still gets homed after the Z bumps up and before Y moves to present the print.\n\nG28 is the command to home the print head. Your current settings homes the X and Y axes. G1 is a linear movement. One caveat to this change in G-Code is that there needs to be a home command at the start of your prints since you're not homing afterwards anymore. (I believe most slicers default to a G28 at the start AND end of prints so it's not a major concern, but one to be wary of now just in case.)\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8416,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joel Coehoorn,2.1782824847157594,3.6912794068058914,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Ultimaker Cura 3.6 choosing to fill in narrow walls with diagonal striping,\"I'm playing with printing some Lego-like bricks. I'm using brick models where the wall thicknesses are aligned to match an exact multiple of my printer nozzle (.4 mm nozzle = 1.2 mm brick walls, vs the standard 1.4 mm), with other adjustments to the interior ridges of the brick so they should still fit with real Legos. \n\nI'm seeing an odd effect when slicing in Ultimaker Cura 3.6. My settings for Wall Thickness/Wall Line Count are 1.2 mm/3 lines. And yet, in the layer view, I see one wall line, with diagonal striping between those walls:\n\n\n\nPart of it could be the interior ridges creating some thicker walls in places, but if you look at the piece on the left, there are no ridges (it will be a plate, rather than a brick, and Lego plates don't use ridges). Yet it still has the striping. I re-measured the STL in 3 different modelling programs (Meshmixer, 3D Builder, Tinkercad) and all show the walls as exactly 1.2 mm thick.\n\nI then noticed I can remove this by putting something small (even .001 mm is enough) in the \"\"Horizontal Expansion\"\" setting:\n\n\n\nThis is more what I wanted, and it cuts the print time almost in half. I can also fix this by setting enough bottom or top layers to handle the whole piece with a wall thickness of 1 line...\n\n... but why was it necessary? What is going on here?\n\",Mick,\"All slicers have their own peculiarities, and one of Cura's peccadilloes seems to be that It likes to generate an even number of shells for narrow structures, even if an odd number of shells would work nicely. Slic3r and Simplify3D have no problem with this, and will automatically generate an odd number of shells if they will fit the model.\n\nCura, on the other hand, will reduce the number of shells and generate infill. If you have set the infill percentage to less than 100%, it will try its best to fulfil that requirement, and in your case, generate zigzag infill. However, if you set the infill to 100%, it will, in effect, create an additional shell, although it is really infill that follows the direction of the walls as far as Cura is concerned, since there is no space to generate the specified infill pattern pattern.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n8583,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joel Coehoorn,1.726248027126092,3.2707264231908733,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Replacement Nozzle options,\"I was working on what should have been a simple nozzle clog, and due to my own clumsy handling it looks like I'll now need a completely new nozzle for my 8 month old printer. Fortunately they're not too expensive: $10 for a replacement direct from the vendor. Unfortunately, the vendor is out of stock. \n\nSo now I'm looking at alternatives. I believe I could get a 5-pack for $6. Wow. But I wonder: what's the quality gonna be like on those nozzles. Really... that's the question of the moment: what can I look for to be sure I'm not buying junk? Even if they are junk, at 1.20 each does it matter, or is the risk to more than the nozzle itself?\n\nAlso, while I'm here and since I'm gonna have to spend some money, what options can I look for in this area that could provide a meaningful upgrade for my printer? Is the cleaning kit worth the extra 5 bucks? What about brass vs copper vs hardened steel? If I only ever print PLA, is the all-metal hot-end for $10 worth the trouble?\n\",Roberto Lo Giacco,\"With regards to the nozzle material, it boils down to two factors: thermal conductivity and wear resistance.\nBrass and copper are better at conducting heat, but they have very low wear resistance: use them with abrasive filaments (PLA infused with metal, fiber glass or carbon fiber, as an example) and they won't last a roll. On the other end steel is not a good thermal conductor, and hardened steel is even worse, meaning the filament will get colder within the nozzle, possibly requiring a slower extrusion speed or a higher temperature, but they are quite resistant to wear.\nThere are other options, like the famous ruby nozzle, which is very wear resistant and, being made mostly of brass, provides a good thermal conductivity, but it's expensive.\n\nAnother factor is the shape of the nozzle: some have a very short tip, others a longer one and that also influences the thermal conductivity and the flow rate, but also take into consideration the long ones don't play very nice with very sticky filaments like PETG.\n\nIt is a matter of compromise between material, price and versatility, I don't think there is a single best choice.\n\nUsually very cheap nozzles are not machined very accurately, meaning the hole might not be perfectly round or centered, but unless you require a high level of precision they can be considered \"\"good enough\"\": don't get me wrong, I'm not saying those are low importance factors, but you probably won't notice a great difference unless you are using very good filament and printing at high-res.\n\nIt will be very difficult for you to damage your printer using a non high quality nozzle, but replacing the nozzle incorrectly (no matter the nozzle quality) can cause damage to the heat block: try not to snap the nozzle thread like I did...\n\nUPDATE\n\nAs pointed out in the comments, there are a couple of factors you might have to take into consideration when buying new nozzles: the nozzle body length (there are nozzles with a much longer threaded body, usually referenced as volcano) and nozzles with different thread sizes (M6 for the vast majority, some use M7, very few use a customized system).\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10231,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joel Coehoorn,2.1782824847157594,3.6561754105338378,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,3 vs 4 bearings for y axis travel,\"I have a Monoprice Maker Select Plus, where I'm doing the Gulf Coast Robotics carriage plate upgrade. I was watching through an installation video just to find any \"\"gotchas\"\" I might want to watch for, and the guy in video recommends removing one of the carriage bearings, going from 4 to 3. The idea is to get quieter, smoother travels, with less weight on the belt.\n\nHas anyone else here done this for this model printer? Or for the very-similar Maker Select v2/2.1? Are there any downsides I should watch for? Everything I know seems to indicate 3 bearings are just better (the whole \"\"3 points define a plane\"\" thing), but if it's that simple, why go to the cost of shipping with 4?\n\",0scar,\"Ideally you would use three bearings opposed to four. In principle you will only need 3 fixtures to get a stable reference frame. Look at how most Prusa i3 \"\"X\"\" carriages are constructed, they also have just three bearings.\n\nThree bearings are way more easy to line out (especially with tight tolerance bearings), with four bearings you will get binding much more easy than with three.\n\nI've been using three linear (self printed tight tolerance acetal/POM) bearings on the moving bed (Y direction) for quite some time on a Prusa i3 type of printer made from 2040 Aluminium profiles.\n\n\n\nA similar reasoning applies to fixating the heated bed/glass slate, only three screws are necessary to define the reference plane. This is how my CoreXY heated bed is connected to the \"\"Z\"\" platform (a slate of glass is perfectly flat as a result of the production process).\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n10234,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joel Coehoorn,1.726248027126092,2.574082176164519,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,What do I need to do to recalibrate my printer after updating the firmware?,\"I just updated my Maker Select Plus from the stock (I believe RepRap-based) firmware to Advi3pp, which is Marlin based. The printer starts up and everything seems okay, but I haven't actually tried a print yet and there was a message during the upgrade about deleting incompatible settings. \n\nWhat do I need to do to recalibrate the printer following the firmware upgrade?\n\",0scar,\"If it is Marlin based or RepRap based, many parameters are stored in EEPROM memory. A G-code command M502: Read parameters from \"\"configuration.h\"\" would reset all parameters that can be changed to their default value as defined in your configuration file. Don't forget to follow the M502 command with a M500 command to store the loaded parameters to EEPROM. This would overwrite all previous settings.\n\nFrom the linked source, M502:\n\n\n This command resets all tunable parameters to their default values, as set in the firmware. This doesn't reset any parameters stored in the EEPROM, so it must be followed with M500 if you want to do that.\n\n\nYou can send these commands over a terminal interface to the printer using applications such as Pronterface, OctoPrint, Repetier-Host, and probably many more, or store the commands in a G-code file (e.g. a text file with a .g extension) and print the file using an SD card.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10234,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joel Coehoorn,1.726248027126092,2.574082176164519,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,What do I need to do to recalibrate my printer after updating the firmware?,\"I just updated my Maker Select Plus from the stock (I believe RepRap-based) firmware to Advi3pp, which is Marlin based. The printer starts up and everything seems okay, but I haven't actually tried a print yet and there was a message during the upgrade about deleting incompatible settings. \n\nWhat do I need to do to recalibrate the printer following the firmware upgrade?\n\",Joel Coehoorn,\"Looks like I don't need to do anything. I printed a 20 mm calibration cube, and aside from some elephant footing it came out as clean and as close to the model dimensions as anything else I've ever put through the machine, with no changes. \n\nSo I'll recommend this as a first step to anyone else: start a 20 mm cube going, watch it closely early on to be sure you're getting adequate extrusion and bed adhesion. If it fails here you may need to adjust settings. When it's done, measure it and see where you are. You might not need to do anything else.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10268,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joel Coehoorn,2.1782824847157594,3.2106547363557154,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Slow down first layer above infill in Ultimaker Cura,\"In Ultimaker Cura, is there a setting to slow down just the first layer (or two layers) covering over the infill? \n\nI'm not talking about the top layers, since you may have infill covered over during a lower section of the print. And I'm not talking about bridging, since this isn't a true bridge, and quick testing shows the bridge settings don't seem to control this. I'm also not talking about the whole layer, since you may have just a section of a layer involved with covering the infill.\n\nWhat I want, is, whenever a print transitions from infill back to shell, that first section of shell above the infill (and maybe also the next layer going the opposite direction) should be slower. \n\nWhat I've observed is this layer prints at the same speed as other shell sections, which can be too fast at this point for complete coverage, leaving a stringy section. This won't be visible later, but it does matter for strength and potentially quality; if expected filament isn't deposited it has to end up somewhere. Slowing down should help get a cleaner layer. \n\nCan Ultimaker Cura do this? I don't care which version. For completeness, what about other slicers? Even if I normally use Cura, I might be tempted to use a different slicer that can do this if I have a part where it really matters.\n\",R..,\"As far as I know, Cura has no option to do this. Conceptually Cura treats the model as a solid, so that the material over infill is not \"\"overhang\"\". However, you may be able to hack it by using the \"\"magic mesh surface mode\"\" feature under \"\"special modes\"\", to treat the model as a surface rather than a solid, then enable support and use the same model as a mask for where support material should be printed, and print support as infill-only. Alternatively you might just print a second copy of the model as infill-only (0 walls and 0 layers of top/bottom skin) in the same location.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10268,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joel Coehoorn,2.1782824847157594,3.2106547363557154,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Slow down first layer above infill in Ultimaker Cura,\"In Ultimaker Cura, is there a setting to slow down just the first layer (or two layers) covering over the infill? \n\nI'm not talking about the top layers, since you may have infill covered over during a lower section of the print. And I'm not talking about bridging, since this isn't a true bridge, and quick testing shows the bridge settings don't seem to control this. I'm also not talking about the whole layer, since you may have just a section of a layer involved with covering the infill.\n\nWhat I want, is, whenever a print transitions from infill back to shell, that first section of shell above the infill (and maybe also the next layer going the opposite direction) should be slower. \n\nWhat I've observed is this layer prints at the same speed as other shell sections, which can be too fast at this point for complete coverage, leaving a stringy section. This won't be visible later, but it does matter for strength and potentially quality; if expected filament isn't deposited it has to end up somewhere. Slowing down should help get a cleaner layer. \n\nCan Ultimaker Cura do this? I don't care which version. For completeness, what about other slicers? Even if I normally use Cura, I might be tempted to use a different slicer that can do this if I have a part where it really matters.\n\",Ghostkeeper,\"Cura can do this. It's a bit convoluted though. Here's what you need to do:\n\n\nLoad your model / scene in the build plate.\nLoad an additional cube and make it as big as the entire build plate so that it overlaps with everything (in the preferences you may need to disable \"\"Ensure that models are kept apart).\nSelect the cube and go to the per-object settings tool.\nChange the cube's mesh type to \"\"modify settings for infill\"\".\nFor the cube, set Wall Line Count to 0, Top/Bottom Thickness to 0 and Top Layers to 1. This effectively makes the cube add one additional layer on the top side of all infill volumes.\nFor the cube, set the Top/Bottom Speed to your desired speed for the one slower layer.\n(Optional) In the normal settings panel on the right, set the number of top layers to be one less, so that you get the same number of top layers again.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10728,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joel Coehoorn,1.726248027126092,2.6051956195329864,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Is a BLTouch probe used during a print after the first layer?,\"I was looking at a BLTouch probe, and saw the recent question about one with intermittent failure. That was kind of scary, where I might spend a bunch of money for something that would make my printer harder to use, rather than easier.\n\nBut I was curious. I don't have any personal experience using these, but it seems like the probe would only be used during an initial level and when homing the Z axis. Thus, as long as the probe works most of the time, and failure to home properly doesn't damage your nozzle or print bed, maybe this kind of thing isn't too bad.\n\nIs this assessment of how the probe functions (that it's not really used after the start of a print) accurate?\n\nIn the spirit of stack exchange, I'm not interested in the subjective issue of nozzle or print bed damage; I'm only asking about the objective assessment of how a probe is used by the printer.\n\",0scar,\"Your assessment is correct, after probing before printing it deploys several times, after that it is stowed till the end of the print unless you call for deployment.\n\n\n\nThe probe is used by G-code command G29; this command is used by a few printer firmwares to perform a bed probing sequence where, depending on the options set in the firmware, the surface of the bed is scanned by deploying the sensor at various locations. From these measurements, the firmware will determine the shape or tilt of the bed to compensate for deviations in Z height during the first couple of layers or millimeters of the print. Basically, it will keep your nozzle (approximately, as it is based on calculations) at the same distance all over the bed area.\n\nOnce the print starts after the G29 command, the sensor is stowed until the next print calls the G29 command (or M280 with arguments to deploy on Marlin/Duet/Smoothieware, or M340 on Repetier firmware).\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10747,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joel Coehoorn,1.0891412423578797,2.2804870714504255,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Uneven motion in X and Y directions after attempting to adjust Z motion in ADVI3++,\"A few weeks back I updated my Monoprice Maker Select Plus from the stock firmware to ADVi3++ 3.0.2. I've put more than 20 prints through the machine since then and everything has been fine.\n\nOne of the few downsides to the new firmware is the Z control. When moving the head up using the control panel, it only moves a millimeter or two instead of the 5 or 10 is used to, meaning it can be a bit of a pain to clear the head out of the way when working with the printer. \n\nI wanted to adjust the setting, so I went through the settings section of my new firmware, trying different values for various options to see if one would change what happens when I pushed the up arrow button for the z axis. I was careful to only ever change values for the Z axis, and after each change I set things back to where they were. \n\nI never did find what I was looking for, but that will be a topic for a future question.\n\nThe very next print after doing this came out awful. I can no longer get a clean, straight line. Instead, the edges are all wavy... and it's way worse than simple ringing. On longer linear stretches I can observe the print head does not move smoothly, but rather speeds up and slows down. It never really stops, but it doesn't move consistently, either. It kind of pulses as it goes.\n\nI have duplicated this with a known good gcode file, so I know it's not the slice. I can move the bed freely with the printer off, and this started on both axises simultaneously, conveniently after my z-axis experiment, so I don't believe it's a problem with bearings. \n\nI've tried restoring factory defaults and even re-flashing the firmware, but it hasn't helped.\n\nAny ideas on how to correct this?\n\",Joel Coehoorn,\"Found the problem. \n\nThe screws connecting the carriage plate to the assembly that connects to the Y-axis belt had loosened, allowing some free play for movements in the Y direction and vibration for movements in the X direction. It just happened to go from nothing to unprintable all at once at the same time I was experimenting with the Z settings.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n11322,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joel Coehoorn,1.726248027126092,2.6051956195329864,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,What hairspray brands are known to contain PVA / PolyVinylpyrrolidone,\"It's common to use hairspray, especially AquaNet, as a bed adhesive. My understanding is this works because the spray includes a chemical called polyvinylpyrrolidone, or PVA.\n\nWhat other brands of hairspray are known to contain this chemical in sufficient concentrations to work as an effective adhesive in 3D printing applications?\n\",cmm,\"From an MSDS for AquaNet hairspray:\n\n\n Water (Aqua), Dimethyl Ether, SD Alcohol 40-B (Alcohol Denat.),\n VA/Crotonates/Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer,\n Aminomethyl Propanol, Sodium Benzoate, Cyclohexylamine, Triethyl\n Citrate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Sodium PCA, Masking Fragrance (Parfum)\n\n\nThe MSDS doesn't mention polyvinylpyrrolidone.\n\nI suspect that the \"\"PVA\"\" here is the VA/Crotonates/Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer. A little googling indicates that this is a common ingredient of hair sprays, and works by forming a thin coating over hair to prevent it from adsorbing moisture.\n\nI stumbled upon three types of Loreal(R) hairspray that have these ingredients. It seems likely that there are more.\n\nDisclosure: I use AquaNet on an aluminum bed as a PLA bonding agent, and on my Prusa PEI covered bed as a PET-G release agent.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6606,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,artie12,1.0891412423578797,3.1516766269614735,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.265283966335819,Recommend simple software to create calibration print for table leveling,\"I've just bought Anycubic i3 Mega printer and trying to level it.\nSo far I've printed test object and 2 others but looks like there are problems with leveling.\n\nI want to make image of 5 small one layer squares(one in each corner and one in center). Looking for recommendations of simple software/tutorials/approaches to do it. I tried zbrush but found that it kind of complicated.\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"One of the most accessible modelling tools has to be tinkercad. Everything is done in the browser, and it even works (to an extent) on a tablet. \n\nI wouldn't recommend getting too attached to it, since it is fairly limited. As an introduction to modeling in 3D, and some of the spatial concepts that you will need to get used to, it works very well.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6606,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,artie12,1.0891412423578797,3.1516766269614735,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.265283966335819,Recommend simple software to create calibration print for table leveling,\"I've just bought Anycubic i3 Mega printer and trying to level it.\nSo far I've printed test object and 2 others but looks like there are problems with leveling.\n\nI want to make image of 5 small one layer squares(one in each corner and one in center). Looking for recommendations of simple software/tutorials/approaches to do it. I tried zbrush but found that it kind of complicated.\n\",0scar,\"You are probably looking for something like this:\n\n\n\nNote this is for large beds (300 x 300 mm), so you would have to X, Y scale this in your slicer.\n\nThis is a simple part that is very easily generated with OpenSCAD 3D design software (very good modeller if you are familiar with software coding), but could easily been designed in any other tool.\n\nAnother leveling and centering print that is created with OpenSCAD is this, and could be a start for you to create your own design:\n\n\n\nNote that the file with the design is located in the \"\"files\"\" section.\n\nEdit:\nSome code for OpenSCAD made within 5 minutes (I don't type fast so it could have been faster if I did not use the constants, but if you go OpenSCAD, making parametric designs is almost a must ;) ):\n\n// Set constants as you like\nwidth = 30;\ndepth = 30;\nlayer_height = 0.2;\nfirst_layer_height = 0.2;\nnr_of_layers = 2;\nbox_size = 180;\n\n// Calculated parameters\nheight = first_layer_height + (nr_of_layers - 1) * layer_height;\n\n// Draw the test object\ntranslate([-width/2, -depth/2,0]){\n // Draw the center square\n cube(size = [width, depth, height], center = false);\n // Draw the corner squares\n for (x=[-1:2:1]){\n for (y=[-1:2:1]){\n translate([x * (box_size-width)/2, y * (box_size-depth)/2, 0])\n cube(size = [width, depth, height], center = false);\n } \n } \n}\n\n\nRendered figure:\n\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n6618,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Perplexed Dipole,2.528907649931287,3.636240664748639,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.6553159206313057,Would adding fiberglass packaging tape to a bowden tube be beneficial?,\"I came across this suggestion on the klipper github, https://www.facebook.com/groups/Hypercube.Evo/permalink/192106034761003/. In order to reduce the stretching in the bowden tube you can add fiberglass packaging tape lengthwise along the tube. This would decrease the elasticity while still allowing the plastic filament to run through it. Allowing you to reduce the retraction length and have better control over the amount of plastic being extruded.\n\nIs there any reasons that this would not work or actually decrease the performance of the bowden tube? \n\",FarO,\"The Young modulus of PTFE is about 500 MPa and the surface of a PTFE tube for 1.75 mm filament is about 9.4 mm2.\n\nThe Young modulus of PLA is variable, between 350 and 2800 MPa, let's say 2000 MPa. The filament surface is 2.4 mm2.\n\nThe ratio is about 1 because the surface ratio is 4x and the Young's modulus ratio 1/4x. As result, the stretching of PTFE is about similar to the compression of PLA inside it (of course they sum, since they go in opposite directions). PLA is very stiff: other materials will compress much more and make the stretching of PTFE less relevant.\n\nHowever the filament is thinner than the tube, so it will curl a bit, which increases its contraction much more! It is likely that even for PLA the stretching of the PTFE is much less relevant than the compression of the filament.\n\nAnyway, fiberglass has a Young's modulus of about 80 GPa (150 times PTFE), but its thickness is what? 0.1 mm? That bring a surface of 2 mm2 at most (and I'm very optimistic, more likely much less than 1 mm2). Fiberglass helps to strengthen PTFE by a factor of surely less than 30, more likely 10 or less (will the glue hold or slide?).\n\nAs result, PTFE, from a contribution to the overall stretching/compression of 50 % (in fact, much less due to curling), will be reduced to about 5 %. It is good, but this is an optimistic value.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6618,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Perplexed Dipole,2.528907649931287,3.636240664748639,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.6553159206313057,Would adding fiberglass packaging tape to a bowden tube be beneficial?,\"I came across this suggestion on the klipper github, https://www.facebook.com/groups/Hypercube.Evo/permalink/192106034761003/. In order to reduce the stretching in the bowden tube you can add fiberglass packaging tape lengthwise along the tube. This would decrease the elasticity while still allowing the plastic filament to run through it. Allowing you to reduce the retraction length and have better control over the amount of plastic being extruded.\n\nIs there any reasons that this would not work or actually decrease the performance of the bowden tube? \n\",Sean Houlihane,\"The question seems to be built on a false premise, namely that the major extrude/retract errors in a Bowden design come from tube stretch. The PTFE tube is not significantly elastic, actually it is reasonably stiff so there is minimal scope for improvement here.\n\nA longer tube will contribute to degraded precision, but slack in the filament/tube gap is roughly as significant as stretch (and filament compression). Constraining the tube path may help marginally (but there is no need to 'bond' the tube). There is not much you can to to reduce the gap between filament and tube, but this will dominate the error for a long tube.\n\nThe most obvious weak point is the clip used to secure the tube at each end. I saw a review of a recent Prusa design where high quality clips were called out as making a big improvement to securing each end of the tube.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n7002,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Perplexed Dipole,2.528907649931287,4.765453227837814,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,CoreXY Calibration Issue,\"I have a Tronxy X5S and I am having issues calibrating my X and Y axis. When I print a 20 mm3 cube it comes out 19.9 mm x 20.4 mm x 20 mm. I have already made the belt tensions as even as I can get them but it did not change the calibration cube size.\n\nI have added this upgrade to my printer for the idlers and motor mounts:\n\n\n\nI have also upgraded the hotend to a V6 clone, after this change is when I noticed the discrepancy in the calibration print.\n\nWhat else can cause the X and Y axis to be uneven in a CoreXY printer besides uneven tension in the belts?\n\nUPDATE:\n\nIts seems Oscar was correct in his assessment that my printer is not printing square. I printed this calibration square to measure the diagonals and I got: $ \\overline{AC} = 141.82 $, $ \\overline{BD} = 141.35 $. I believe the correct value for these diagonals should be $ \\sqrt{2} \\times 100 \\approx 141.42 $. \n\n\n\nOscar also mentioned that I can adjust my firmware to correct this but I would rather fix the problem than apply a band-aid. Does this indicate that I did not assemble the printer frame correctly?\n\",0scar,\"Indeed, even belt tension is important, what helped me enormously to set the same tension in the belts on my self build CoreXY is a tool like this:\n\n\n\nFurthermore, be sure that you do not have any binding on the Y carriages over the whole range. This causes inaccurate printing, e.g. outer walls not adhering to the inner walls (as I encountered myself in the beginning when tuning the printer), and thus inaccurate dimensions.\n\nAlso make sure that the print is not skew, i.e. are you sure that the printer prints squares? This can be easily checked by printing a large square and measure the diagonals; I used this as it will also help you find the center of the bed and the level of the bed all at once:\n\n\n\nbut many calibration prints can be found on the internet, e.g. this one but this requires way more filament to print). Schematically this results in something like depicted below:\n\n\n\nIf it is not square, you can adjust this by using a different firmware like e.g. Marlin Firmware which has options for skewness compensation that can be addressed in the Marlin Configuration.h file. A \"\"cube\"\" that is printed by stacking parallelograms also shows different dimensions is X and Y (one being smaller, the other being larger).\n\nEdit\nYou mention that you changed the hotend; it is recommended to calibrate the extruder after changing. Note that a few tenths of a mm are very common, usually X and Y should be in the range of 20.1 mm ± 0.1 mm for such a calibration cube.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n7002,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Perplexed Dipole,2.528907649931287,4.765453227837814,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,CoreXY Calibration Issue,\"I have a Tronxy X5S and I am having issues calibrating my X and Y axis. When I print a 20 mm3 cube it comes out 19.9 mm x 20.4 mm x 20 mm. I have already made the belt tensions as even as I can get them but it did not change the calibration cube size.\n\nI have added this upgrade to my printer for the idlers and motor mounts:\n\n\n\nI have also upgraded the hotend to a V6 clone, after this change is when I noticed the discrepancy in the calibration print.\n\nWhat else can cause the X and Y axis to be uneven in a CoreXY printer besides uneven tension in the belts?\n\nUPDATE:\n\nIts seems Oscar was correct in his assessment that my printer is not printing square. I printed this calibration square to measure the diagonals and I got: $ \\overline{AC} = 141.82 $, $ \\overline{BD} = 141.35 $. I believe the correct value for these diagonals should be $ \\sqrt{2} \\times 100 \\approx 141.42 $. \n\n\n\nOscar also mentioned that I can adjust my firmware to correct this but I would rather fix the problem than apply a band-aid. Does this indicate that I did not assemble the printer frame correctly?\n\",Perplexed Dipole,\"Oscar's answer is the correct solution to this issue. My printer was printing skewed and there is a built in correction for this in Marlin. Unfortunately the X5S does not have a boot loader and I don't have an ISP programmer (yet), so I am unable to re-flash my board at the moment.\n\nIn the mean time I created a software fix for this issue. I used a script to add a Affine Shear Transformation to the stl file. This adds a reverse skew to the model so the print comes out (closer to) square. Basically read all the points from the triangle mesh (STL file), apply XY shear transformation preserving Z, re-save the STL.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n8553,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Perplexed Dipole,1.726248027126092,3.863619001571544,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Will this MOSFET allow the heat bed to run at a different voltage than the control board,\"I am currently running my Tronxy X5s with a MKS Gen L board. So far I have not ran the heat bed over 50 degrees C since I have only printed with PLA so far. I plan to try PETG and/or ABS in the near future and I have a spare power supply 12V/360W laying around. \n\nWhen I first got my printer I purchased this external MOSFET board after reading about X5s \"\"upgrades\"\", but so far have not used it.\n\n\n\n\nMy plan is to now run the heat bed using a separate power supply than the one running my control board using the external MOSFET to switch it. Since this power supply will only be powering the bed, I would like to bump up the voltage, via trim-pot somewhere from 12V-15V, to gain some watts per square inch on my heat bed. \n\nWill this MOSFET isolate the heat bed circuit from my control board to allow it be ran at a higher voltage? Is it safe to run the power supply/heat bed at a higher voltage than it is rated for a significant amount of time?\n\",0scar,\"Yes you can, but you should be aware that running at higher voltage implies that the current also increases. Your wiring and connectors to the heated platform have to be able to transport that extra current (e.g. the wires, the ones I got where very low quality, and connectors that came with my Anet A8 where not even rated for the standard load, let alone an even higher load). You need to properly solder the leads to the heated bed and use proper terminal clamps (C-clamps or forks) to connect the cables to the MOSFET module. Even running the basic voltage this can happen:\n\n\n\nLet's assume the heated bed has a resistance (R) of about 1.4 Ω. A voltage (U) of 12 V would result in a current (I) of $ I=\\frac{U}{R}=\\frac{12}{1.4} = 8.6\\ A$ (Ampere). Running the same bed at 15 V would result in a current of $ \\frac{15}{1.4} = 10.7\\ A$. The power would increase from about 102 Watt to 161, which is a 60 % increase of a 25 % increase in voltage.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8553,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Perplexed Dipole,1.726248027126092,3.863619001571544,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Will this MOSFET allow the heat bed to run at a different voltage than the control board,\"I am currently running my Tronxy X5s with a MKS Gen L board. So far I have not ran the heat bed over 50 degrees C since I have only printed with PLA so far. I plan to try PETG and/or ABS in the near future and I have a spare power supply 12V/360W laying around. \n\nWhen I first got my printer I purchased this external MOSFET board after reading about X5s \"\"upgrades\"\", but so far have not used it.\n\n\n\n\nMy plan is to now run the heat bed using a separate power supply than the one running my control board using the external MOSFET to switch it. Since this power supply will only be powering the bed, I would like to bump up the voltage, via trim-pot somewhere from 12V-15V, to gain some watts per square inch on my heat bed. \n\nWill this MOSFET isolate the heat bed circuit from my control board to allow it be ran at a higher voltage? Is it safe to run the power supply/heat bed at a higher voltage than it is rated for a significant amount of time?\n\",user77232,\"Short answer YES. You can run it from a different power supply at a higher voltage. Also it has a PC817 Optical isolator (for some reason) therefore the second power supply and your main board should not be electrically connected at all.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6619,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Giandroid,2.8153892694839717,3.9604245843011654,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"Thermister stops reading temp after a few seconds. (Marlin 1.1.8, Tronxy X5s stock Melzi board)\",\"I think it's best that I explain what my issue is before I explain how I arrived here. I have a Tronxy x5s with a stock board that I am repairing for the sake of repairing, even though I know I should probably just spring for a new board. It's the principle of the thing. \n\n\nThe extruder thermistor accurately reads for a few seconds, and then gives a negative reading as if it's been unplugged. \nI know that this is the same reading of an unplugged thermistor because when you unplug either the extruder or bed thermistor from a known-good port, it gives this same negative reading. \nIt is not attached to the original pin. It is attached to a new pin that I moved it to. I cut the old pin off from the thermistor port and soldered the new pin to the traces of the port. Then I changed the pin in the configuration file, and it works, for a while.\nThe electronics are messy but sound; I have used my voltmeter to verify connectivity and voltage. \nThe thermistor works; it reads a little over 100kΩ in my hot garage and the temperature changes after I put it in my hand for a few minutes. But this temperature change only registers, as explained in the rest, for a few seconds. \nI am sure there's a configuration somewhere in the firmware that I am missing that causes that pin to either go \"\"off\"\" or become disused after a few seconds. \n\n\nGreater context: \n\nThe printer was working great for months, but one day the extruder thermistor shorted so badly that the Analog to Digital pin on the Arduino powering the Melzi board was permanently damaged. The temperature reading consistently stayed at 260 °C, even when unplugged. \n\nI wanted to come up with a repair solution rather than replacing the board (even though I have plans to do that anyway), so I downloaded the datasheet for the Arduino Mega 1248P and looked for other ADC pins I could use. I found that ADC Pin0 was unused on the board, so I thought I'd isolate old pin (ADC Pin 7), solder the trace to the new pin, and change the firmware to reflect the new pin. \n\n\n\n \n\nThen I changed the pin used for that extruder thermistor reading in the Pins_SANGUINOLOLU_11.h config file (the old Melzi board for the Tronxy X5s is a Sanguino): \n\n// Temperature Sensors\n//\n#define TEMP_0_PIN 7 // Analog Input (pin 33 extruder) \n#define TEMP_BED_PIN 6 // Analog Input (pin 34 bed)\n\n\nChanged to \n\n// Temperature Sensors\n//\n#define TEMP_0_PIN 0 // Analog Input (pin xx extruder) \n#define TEMP_BED_PIN 6 // Analog Input (pin 34 bed)\n\n\nI didn't know what \"\"pin 33\"\" was or used to be so I just put xx in the comment. \n\nAnyway, my hardware was good, and my software was supposedly good, so I flashed the new firmware, plugged it in, and turned it on: \n\n\n\nYay! But after a few seconds... \n\n\n\nBoo. It stops working. \n\nI am sure my connections are solid: I've tested for connectivity and voltage. Both the new port and the heat bed thermistor port get 4.97 volts, so it's not a voltage drop. It's something in the Arduino. \n\nAny ideas? \n\",entropicCreator,\"Thermal expansion is opening a connection somewhere. It might not be one of your solderings, but if you shorted the board bad enough to fry pins, it could have cooked something somewhere else, and putting current through it is heating up the spot enough to break the connection. Either somewhere else in/on the board, or inside of the IC chip itself. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6628,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Juli15,3.0576060275493275,4.083098880456266,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Problems with Z step,\"Recently I bought a Prusa i3 pro W (from Geeetech) and I've been struggling with something that is ruining all my printings. I attach a photo with what was supposed to be little \"\"boxes\"\":\n\n \n\nAs you can see the Z distance is doing weird things, I think may can be fixed through this configurations, as it seems the Z axis is moving too much:\n\n\n\nOn the other hand, the form the printer is doing the skirt is also bothering me, I've tried a lot of configurations and I think it's a problem of over extrusion, but I'm a newbie and I don't really know what more could I do...\n\n\n\nI'll really thank you for every answer because I've been a lot of days with this and I begin to feel really disappointed with all.. Thank you!\n\",profesor79,\"\nas per base of the pink printout it looks like the bed is far below the nozzle (level the bed)\nto check the Z steps/mm setting, the best way will be to home it, then from menu move Z by 50mm and check with a ruler or meter traveled distance.\nthen using a formula (requestedMove/measuredMove) * currentSteps set new value in to Z steps/mm setting. After that repeat the exercise until you will get no difference.\n\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n6629,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Adrian Maire,3.267423727073639,3.6260512276357146,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,\"What is the \"\"Detailed format classification\"\" of the ISO 6983 (G-Code spec)\",\"For developing a CNC system, I am reading the \"\"ISO 6983-1:2009\"\". \n\nIn it, there are several references to what they call \"\"Detailed format classification\"\" which I struggle to understand:\n\n\n A classification of the data in a block shall be used to specify the programming detail for a system and machine configuration. This is called the detailed format classification and is described in Annex C.\n\n\n...\n\n\n Zero omission shall be specified in the detailed format classification (see Annex C). \n\n\n...\n\n\n The number of digits shall be designated by the detailed format classification ( see Annex C).\n\n\n...\n\nIt seem this \"\"Detailed format classification\"\" is sort of a definition of the machine on which the program will run. But in this case, I do not understand why this is something part of the program and not some values of the control system.\n\nMy question is: What exactly is this \"\"Detailed format classification\"\"?\n\n\nIs it part of the program?\nWhat is it purpose?\n\n\n\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"This is simply the formalised definition of the syntax, so that a parser can be written to interpret any legal G-code. Without this, there is ambiguity - not in the general operation, but in the bounds of what is 'legal' and what should be rejected.\n\nTaking the example X+053, this is not a position of 53 units, it is:\n\n\nAddress X\nSign is required (in this implementation)\nLeading zeros can be ommitted\nUp to 5 orders of magnitude before the decimal\nUp to 3 digits of precision after the decimal\n\n\nThis means that X can range from +99999.999 to -99999.999 - an interpretation which matches the verbiage at the bottom of the page.\n\nAs hinted at in the text, it is possible to use various fixed precision number systems (think using integer milimetres rather than decimal metres), and also to anchor at the most significant bit, so 001 could represent 00100.000. It may help to remember that these specifications were designed in the days of dedicated hardware rather than general purpose computers, when the standard portable storage medium held ~600 kB, and relate to actual machines that had been developed long before that.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n6630,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,luka peršolja,2.8153892694839717,4.616290579376162,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Short to ground error using TMC2130 stepper drivers,\"I have recently got an MKS GEN L V1.0 board and 5 TMC2130s. (X, Y, two Z, E). I have wired it all up and uploaded Marlin 1.1.9 and after some quick troubleshooting I got the motors moving. Next day I tried it again and it gave me this error: \n\n\n E0 driver error detected:\n overtemperature\n short to ground (coil A)\n short to ground (coil B)\n\n\nwith the following driver debug report: (notice that the extruder driver doesn't show up)\n\n\n X Y Z\nEnabled false false false\nSet current 800 800 800\nRMS current 795 795 795\nMAX current 1121 1121 1121\nRun current 25/31 25/31 25/31\nHold current 12/31 12/31 12/31\nCS actual 12/31 12/31 12/31\nPWM scale 10 10 10\nvsense 1=.18 1=.18 1=.18\nstealthChop true true true\nmsteps 16 16 16\ntstep 1048575 1048575 1048575\npwm\nthreshold 0 0 0\n[mm/s] - - -\nOT prewarn false false false\nOT prewarn has been triggered false false false\noff time 5 5 5\nblank time 24 24 24\nhysteresis\n-end 2 2 2\n-start 3 3 3\nStallguard thrs 8 8 0\nDRVSTATUS X Y Z\nstallguard\nsg_result 0 0 0\nfsactive\nstst X X X\nolb\nola\ns2gb\ns2ga\notpw\not\nDriver registers: X = 0x80:0C:00:00\nY = 0x80:0C:00:00\nZ = 0x80:0C:00:00\n\n\n\nI did some research and found that you should change the CS pin for that stepper and so I did. I tried almost every available pin on my board but no luck. The only change I got was when I wired it to pin 11 and got this:\n\n\n E0 driver error detected:\n overtemperature\n short to ground (coil A)\n\n\nI have the Watterott TMC2130 SilentStep Sticks and have examined the board which seemed correct. Is all wired correctly. Tomorrow I will try to switch the driver to one from another axis and try to switch the stepper to see if anything changes, but it seems to me that it shouldn't since it worked for some time. \n\",luka peršolja,\"I have fixed it. I tried uploading the bugfix version of Marlin and no luck. Then I noticed a loose jumper wire that connected the driver to the board and when re-installing it I noticed it didn't grip the pin that strongly and could be easily pulled off so I switched the wire and everything works now. Turns out that even jumper wires can have a bad connection. Hope this helps someone.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6640,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lucian Depold,2.8153892694839717,3.3364772277273533,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.265283966335819,Am I allowed to publish a 3d scan of a statue/thing I bought?,\"I bought a buddha statue and I would like to scan it using photogrammetry and publish the result. \n\nAm I allowed to do that?\n\nIs this the same like scanning a book and publishing it? Sketchfab on the other hand is full of 3d models of commercial products.\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"First thing to do is get a lawyer skilled in copyright law as applicable where you live. It's going to depend in no small part on whether your scanned model is considered a copy or a transformative work of art. \n\nPersonally, I see scanning an object as similar to photographing it (or sketching it). Lots of art objects, or for that matter personal items such as a photo of a living person, are protected by copyright; others aren't. If I made the laws, which I sadly don't :-) , I would consider a scanned, printed object to be in the same boat as a sketch -- has to be demonstrably transformative and all that. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6640,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lucian Depold,2.8153892694839717,3.3364772277273533,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.265283966335819,Am I allowed to publish a 3d scan of a statue/thing I bought?,\"I bought a buddha statue and I would like to scan it using photogrammetry and publish the result. \n\nAm I allowed to do that?\n\nIs this the same like scanning a book and publishing it? Sketchfab on the other hand is full of 3d models of commercial products.\n\",Horitsu,\"If the design was made from an artist and is not public domain, than you should not upload that scan without the (written) permission of the creator of the design. Espacially a scan of a decorative object will likely be protected, so costumers buy the original instead of printing itself or buy a printed version. If you would design a deco object and sell copies of it, you also don't want that others just scan it and print it.\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n6643,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jeff Clark,2.1782824847157594,4.606559924210986,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Z-axis endstop not functioning after Marlin Firmware installation,\"I've had my Monoprice Maker Ultimate for a few months and have started doing upgrades to it. My most recent change is in upgrading the firmware to a newer version of Marlin so that I can better control the thermal settings and implement a probe in the future. For now, I intend to level the bed manually.\n\nWell the issue I'm having now is that after flashing the firmware (Marlin Firmware 1.1.9) and attempting to home, the z axis limit switch is unresponsive. X and Y work as they should. I send M119 codes to the printer in Pronterface when holding the Z switch with my finger and get that the z axis is open. I even flipped over the machine and shorted out the two pins on the board leading to the switch and I get that its still open.(It is open when not pressing the switch, the switch is not inverted. If I flash the firmware back to the original, it functions fine.\n\nI've been digging through the Marlin files learning how it works and am wondering if there are any extra steps I have to take to designate the switches in the config file. Or if a conflicting bed leveling/probe setting may be overriding with the switch's functionality. I've been searching around but haven't seen much about this issue. Wondering if someone could point me in the right direction. \n\nHere's a repository of my configuration.h and *_adv.h files: https://github.com/jeffc-git/3dimensify\n\",Jeff Clark,\"After gaining more of an understanding of how Marlin works, I decided to look through the the pins file for the motherboard I am using \"\"pins_ULTIMAIN_2.h\"\". Sure enough, It had a the wrong pin number for the z stop specified. After changing that number, I gained full functionality.\n\nThis is what they should be:\n\n#define X_STOP_PIN 22\n#define Y_STOP_PIN 26\n#define Z_STOP_PIN 29\n\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n6661,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Leon185,-2.528907649931287,3.401230309423458,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,-0.7766301205685938,How to build a cheap (but safe) laser engraver with spare parts,\"I would love to start a small engraving business without having to purchase expensive hardware. \n\nUsing scrap parts at home, or parts from broken CD players, are there any ways to make a laser engraver at home? My cousin managed to make one of his own from scraps.\n\",amra,\"If you do not have knowledge about the electronics then consider buying a cheap etching machine instead.\n\nBuild\n\nTake a look on https://hackaday.com/ and search for laser engravers.\n\nI have found following articles in few seconds:\n\n\nHackaday.com: DVD LASER DIODE USED TO BUILD A LASER ENGRAVER\nHackaday.com: LASER PCB EXPOSER BUILT FROM CD-ROM DRIVES\nHackaday.com: HOMEBUILT LASER ENGRAVER USING SALVAGED PARTS\nHackaday.com: ENTRY-LEVEL 3D PRINTER BECOMES BUDGET PCB MACHINE\n\n\nCheap laser engravers\n\nAnd this one is about 2018 list of laser cutters/engravers: 15 Best Laser Cutters, Laser Engravers & AIO Machines of 2018. It lists machines around 100$\n\n\nMeterk Laser Engraver ($125)\nNEJE DK-8-KZ ($70)\nQIILU Mini Laser Engraver ($130)\nSuperCarver K2 ($160)\n\n\nSafety\n\nLaser could damage your eyes (imagine laser reflection or if the machine falls from table when it's working). Take a look on wikipedia.\n\nThe best option is to use acrylic cover in same color as your laser, so you can observe the etching process and the laser beam is always blocked. For example take a look on orange cover of Formlabs Form 2 3d printer (it uses laser for printing).\n\nAnother protection is to wear laser protection glasses. Again the glasses must have same color as your laser. \n\nUsing laser for cutting or engraving means to burn material away. You should have good ventilation in the room.\n\nBuy a smoke detector if you use cheap electronics with higher power consumption.\n\",-1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n6661,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Leon185,-2.528907649931287,3.401230309423458,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,-0.7766301205685938,How to build a cheap (but safe) laser engraver with spare parts,\"I would love to start a small engraving business without having to purchase expensive hardware. \n\nUsing scrap parts at home, or parts from broken CD players, are there any ways to make a laser engraver at home? My cousin managed to make one of his own from scraps.\n\",Davo,\"I have a printer and a diode laser head which will etch aluminum for under $4k, but you're going to have to manage potentially noxious fumes based on what material you're lasering. It's safe if used safely: the focal distance is 15-20mm from the lens, but all present should wear PPE.\n\nNote: I work for Hyrel3D.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6664,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ifconfig,2.8153892694839717,6.055429186605868,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Strange layer separation issues on Ender 3,\"I got my Ender 3 a couple weeks ago. Within a couple days of test prints, I was able to get it working pretty well. Prints looked great. However, I installed a more permanent solution to my X-Gantry binding issues and now print quality is down again.\n\n\n\nThe bottom .25\"\" of the calibration part looks absolutely terrible, with hideous layer separation issues, while the upper .75\"\" looks flawless. I have little idea what could be causing this issue.\n\n\n\nThe only possible failure mode I can think of is that the bed isn't the right distance from the print head, but even fiddling with the knobs doesn't yield any better print quality than the print on the right of the first image. What can I do?\n\nI slice with Cura and can make my profile available if it would be useful.\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"Well, you have several problems with your print. One that could be affecting your print is the nozzle temperature. The print looks wavy and has a lack of adhesion, so the filament is not flowing properly, causing under extrusion and will provoke a clogged nozzle. \n\nTry to increase the temperature by 5°C and do a small test, don't wait to waste material and try another 2-3°C more. \n\nTry to reduce the printing sped; try reducing the feed rate on your printer to 90% or less. While printing you can reduce the feed rate to see which speed works better at your printing temperature. I prefer to do this first rather than change the temperature; If you notice that your print gets better at lower feed rate then change your temperature higher to print a higher speed.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6664,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ifconfig,2.8153892694839717,6.055429186605868,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Strange layer separation issues on Ender 3,\"I got my Ender 3 a couple weeks ago. Within a couple days of test prints, I was able to get it working pretty well. Prints looked great. However, I installed a more permanent solution to my X-Gantry binding issues and now print quality is down again.\n\n\n\nThe bottom .25\"\" of the calibration part looks absolutely terrible, with hideous layer separation issues, while the upper .75\"\" looks flawless. I have little idea what could be causing this issue.\n\n\n\nThe only possible failure mode I can think of is that the bed isn't the right distance from the print head, but even fiddling with the knobs doesn't yield any better print quality than the print on the right of the first image. What can I do?\n\nI slice with Cura and can make my profile available if it would be useful.\n\",ifconfig,\"The answer now seems brain-dead obvious now. Hindsight is 20/20, amirite?\n\nI had a decent filament clog in the extruder past the end of the Bowden tube. This was resolved by sticking a nozzle cleaner rod up and down the filament path from the top of the extruder block several times and clearing the filament jam from the bottom of the Bowden tube. The printer works flawlessly now.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6716,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ifconfig,3.267423727073639,6.4064608568681765,0.0,5.199501240805782,4.240216107868139,3.1578498903161196,Serious safety concerns with living in same room as PLA 3D Printer?,\"I have an Ender 3 which I primarily use for printing with PLA. I haven't branched out to other materials yet. :)\n\nI've done some research into PLA fumes and airborne particulates which seemed to mention that PLA is mostly safe, but ABS is rather dangerous to print without proper ventilation. However, I understand that there isn't much research on the topic and that there haven't been many studies.\n\nI have been keeping my printer in my bedroom, far isolated from flammable materials, which I sometimes leave on to print while I'm asleep. Should I be concerned with my health safety with respect to airborne particulates emitted by printing with PLA?\n\nOther questions ask about ABS, but here, I'm asking specifically about PLA.\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"Fire is the most obvious risk - firmware can now detect some of the more obvious failure modes such as a detached thermistor, but loose or failing connections can still overheat. A smoke alarm is a fairly obvious (but not necessarily effective) protective measure.\n\nThe risk from particulates in particular is probably low, but marginal health risks like this are extremely hard to analyse, and will likely take many years to manifest. The closest analogue would be to look at commercial plastics workers since they are exposed to both heated plastic, and any potential dust generated.\n\nYou could also compare the risk to other 'hobby' activities such as soldering, painting, woodworking.\n\",3.5068404193471867,2.0769199823829045\n6716,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ifconfig,3.267423727073639,6.4064608568681765,0.0,5.199501240805782,4.240216107868139,3.1578498903161196,Serious safety concerns with living in same room as PLA 3D Printer?,\"I have an Ender 3 which I primarily use for printing with PLA. I haven't branched out to other materials yet. :)\n\nI've done some research into PLA fumes and airborne particulates which seemed to mention that PLA is mostly safe, but ABS is rather dangerous to print without proper ventilation. However, I understand that there isn't much research on the topic and that there haven't been many studies.\n\nI have been keeping my printer in my bedroom, far isolated from flammable materials, which I sometimes leave on to print while I'm asleep. Should I be concerned with my health safety with respect to airborne particulates emitted by printing with PLA?\n\nOther questions ask about ABS, but here, I'm asking specifically about PLA.\n\",markshancock,\"You are probably pretty safe printing PLA\n\n\nRegarding emissions, the following recent report, Emissions of Ultrafine Particles and Volatile Organic Compounds\nfrom Commercially Available Desktop Three-Dimensional Printers\nwith Multiple Filaments, indicates that PLA is a pretty low emitter (1/20th of nylon) and most of what it out-gasses is Lactide which is low on the harm scale. That said, everybody's nose sees things a bit different and people tolerate smells differently. Note also that we used to think lots of things (like asbestos) were harmless that we know differently now. Note also in the figure below from the report that all PLAs are not created equal. Dremel PLA produce way more nasty stuff than FlashForge PLA did. I am also sure additives, colorant, and fillers can change this a lot as PLA filaments aren't not all PLA.\n\n\nRegarding the fire safety issue. Note that there is a BIG difference between a kit and a \"\"product\"\". Since you are the manufacturer of the printer for a \"\"kit\"\", the packager of the \"\"kit\"\" is not responsible for the fire or electrical certifications of the final product. This does open the door to some risks. The biggest risks are electrical safety; but, fire safety can be an issue as well. I would say that the risk is likely higher to you personally when the printer is NOT in your bedroom as if it catches fire when you are sleeping, you will likely catch the fire faster if it is in your bedroom.\nFrom a practical standpoint, I have heard several people complain that they can't sleep when the printer is printing when the printer is in a separate room.\n\n\",3.6340916038470805,0.0\n6935,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ifconfig,1.726248027126092,2.846247604045449,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Cura acting REALLY sluggish all of a sudden,\"I've been using Cura on my computer for a while now, (at least a month) but all of a sudden the entire interface has become noticeably sluggish. Whenever I scroll through the profile parameters list or the settings visibility dialog, the list lags and doesn't fully appear.\n\nI'm at a loss to explain why this is happening.\n\n\n\n\n\",YetAnotherRandomUser,\"Cura has and/or had a memory leak (or some other similar phenomenon) that occurs if you leave it running for a long time. I have left Cura running for days or a week or three and eventually ran into a similar problem. One could infer that you've left Cura running for a month, though it's not clear in your question.\n\nI update Cura a few weeks ago (maybe a couple months) and noticed that it had a substantially smaller memory footprint, so that tells me they are working on memory management.\n\nLooking in the release notes, you can see that 2 versions ago they implemented analytics, which is possibly a reason for the poor performance. You'll also notice a lot of new features and bugs fixed int hat version. That means a lot of work went into it. Coupled with the short time to another release, and I think they're working on fixing things.\n\nFor a more precise answer, include details and specs about your PC, internet connection, mother's maiden name, SSN, etc. I'm kidding about the last 2, but it is probably a PC or software problem that you're running into.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6937,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ifconfig,2.1782824847157594,5.124439386981339,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,1.6229190288168605,Ender 3 is capable of food safe printing?,\"I've been looking into the viability of manufacturing a replacement part for a kitchen blender that has a broken part. I found this page that talks about what makes a print food safe. One of the items mentioned was:\n\n\n ... a brass extruder may contain lead, and lead contamination can cause some nasty health problems. ...\n\n\nI own an Ender 3, and I haven't replaced the nozzle yet. How can I tell if my printer is capable of creating food safe prints in its current state?\n\",Trish,\"Food packaging needs to comply with regulations. One certification agency informing about these (and their service to certify for them) is TÜV Süd, another is SAI global. A summary of the GFSI can be found here. Inform yourself about the standards you wish to apply! The stack can not give legally binding answers.\n\nNo\n\nThe Ender 3 is not approved to produce food products (and not usable for them out of the box) for lack of certification. In the design it comes from the box, you need to replace a lot of parts for food rated ones:\n\n\nThe whole print head/bed need to be swapped out for food rated parts due to the exact composition being not known. They might contain banned materials. As a result:\n\n\nYou'll need an all-metal hot end that can be taken apart for cleaning up to the standards if needed.\nYou'll need a food rated PTFE tube.\nYou'll need a stainless steel nozzle that complies with food grade manufacturing demands.\nThe extruder gear should be stainless steel as well.\nYou'll need to add some part to prevent filament shreds/flakes from the extruder to enter the print area as they might act as contaminants or carry germs.\nSimilar measures have to be taken for the wheels on the hot end carriage, as it might shred.\nAs you include a volume of air into the print, you are likely to be demanded to print under a protective atmosphere to make sure no germs are inside the print.\nWe do not know the composition of the build platform, so you'd need to replace the back surface with something that is food rated.\n\nYou'll need to post-process your prints as smooth as possible, especially because of the small edges at the layer boundaries, which can and will act as spots where germs can grow.\n\n\nThis can be achieved with a material that is smoothable in some way.\nAlternatively, a sealing lacquer/coating that is food safe might help here.\n\n\n\nRemember, safety first:\n\nPrinted plastics that are rated for food are not necessarily food safe because of the quality or blend of the material. PLA and ABS can be made food safe, but that is usually pure material. We usually don't know what kinds of fillers or coloring is in our filament. The heating process might destroy the colors or fillers, which in turn might make it unsafe.\n\nIndirect manufacturing\n\nIf you are stone set you want/need, you can use indirect manufacturing: you don't print the actual object, you print a mold that makes the actual object. Clay and other ceramics can be made food safe very easily and they can be shaped with plastic molds.\n\nBoxing\n\nThere is also another way to facilitate food safety in a 3D printed container, and that is checking where the food will actually make contact. For a lunch box, that is the inside. We could line this inside with a food safe surface, for example placing a steel cup in our plastic cup-holder. Accessories like a cup holder or a decorative container for the actual food container do not need to adhere to the food packaging regulations themselves.\n\nExposure time\n\nI know this is all looking at industrial food rated production. The Primer given in the question does include a point about time the product gets into contact with the food - if there is just a short exposure, you might get away with it, but it doesn't make it certified food safe. Another good read in this regard is this short discussion about the Pros and Cons.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n6937,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ifconfig,2.1782824847157594,5.124439386981339,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,1.6229190288168605,Ender 3 is capable of food safe printing?,\"I've been looking into the viability of manufacturing a replacement part for a kitchen blender that has a broken part. I found this page that talks about what makes a print food safe. One of the items mentioned was:\n\n\n ... a brass extruder may contain lead, and lead contamination can cause some nasty health problems. ...\n\n\nI own an Ender 3, and I haven't replaced the nozzle yet. How can I tell if my printer is capable of creating food safe prints in its current state?\n\",Himanshu,\"Yes you have to change brass nozzle it contains lead.\nIf you are planning to print in PLA don't do that because PLA filament we are using in 3D printer are not food safe it contains some nasty colour dyes which are not food safe. Consider some special food safe filaments available in market. I think extruder gears are also made up of brass. Consider also changing them.\nSteel extuder gears are available in market like below\n\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n6965,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ifconfig,3.767809650974757,6.251476237697873,0.0,4.670422881206417,4.376800063013361,3.6575483220214347,Why is it conventional to set line width > nozzle diameter?,\"I recently became curious about the Line Width setting in Cura and why one might change it if they aren't using different size nozzle.\n\nSince I've gotten my Ender 3, I've always kept the line width equal to my nozzle size (0.4 mm). I've looked around a bit, and it seems like most people actually set their line widths to be higher, depending upon who you ask anywhere from 120 - 150 % nozzle diameter. \n\nWhy is this? They mention that it helps with print adhesion, but why? Shouldn't a 0.4 mm nozzle create a line of plastic 0.4 mm wide, necessitating a line spacing of 0.4 mm?\n\",Trish,\"There are several things at play that can make a wider line nice to have:\n\nFirst layer adhesion\n\nDue to some filaments having serious struggle to get the first line or layer stuck to the bed, it can be an easy fix to just increase the line width, generating a bigger Adhesive Force $F_a\\propto A(l,w)$, where A is the area covered by the line, and thus simply $A=l*w$ with length l and width w of the line. So, a wider line means better initial adhesion and can lead to less failed prints in layer 1.\n\nPlastic Goo\n\nPlastics under heat behave in certain ways: they turn into a gooey substance that expands. This is also the reason why prints shrink a little as they cool. Now, if we press the plastic onto the bed with more force (as we force more plastic through than before to go from 0.4 mm to 0.5 mm) for the first time, we have a roughly flat area. The extra filament will make a wider line. The slicher can account for that, and does.\n\nNow, next layer up: Where does the extra material go now? Plastic goo has one property that is very interesting: it tries to shrink its surface as much as possible. Heat a short piece with an airgun and it gets a little beady. But on the other hand, it comes hot enough from the nozzle to melt a tiny surface area of the already built layers, which is how layer bonding works in the first place. But our goopy plastic finds the layer below not exactly flat like the first layer found its lower surface, it finds a shape of ridges and valley. Taking into account that it wants to have the least surface to non-plastic (=air) and slightly cross bonds with the print, it will fill these nooks and crevices inside the print a tiny little better, as the increased force we use to push it out also increased the speed at which it expands to them: we reduce the time a tiny bit to reach there. How does it matter? \n\n\n\nWell, heat transfer bases, roughly speaking, on a formula like this: $Q = mc\\Delta T$ Q is the thermal energy of the object, m the mass of the object, c its specific heat capacity and T the temperature, ΔT the temperature change. But we don't have a homogenous object, we got pretty much a heat distribution with touching zones of different heat. The actual formula for the heat transfer inside the object is a long mess containing stuff like the gradient $\\text{grad}T$, thermal conductivities, and integrals, but what matters is the result: The faster-expanding line of filament loses a little less thermal energy to its surroundings than the less forceful extruded line, which can increase the bonding between the two as the temperature on several fronts:\n\n\nit enters the crevices further before reverting from goo to solid, leading to better adhesion for more surface.\nit contains more thermal energy that can and will get transmitted to the layer below and has a bigger surface area, so it can increase the zone thickness that gets remelted a tiny bit, increasing the layer bonding strength a little.\n\n\nThis can result in a problem though: if you don't give the printed lines enough time to cool, it can lead to the material to accumulate heat more and more, leading to the whole thing to melt and turn into goop. An easy fix to this side problem is minimum layer time. But that would be only tangential to the original question, so look for example at the question here or the video the thermal picture above is taken from here. \n\",3.7511513460834345,2.0769199823829045\n6965,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ifconfig,3.767809650974757,6.251476237697873,0.0,4.670422881206417,4.376800063013361,3.6575483220214347,Why is it conventional to set line width > nozzle diameter?,\"I recently became curious about the Line Width setting in Cura and why one might change it if they aren't using different size nozzle.\n\nSince I've gotten my Ender 3, I've always kept the line width equal to my nozzle size (0.4 mm). I've looked around a bit, and it seems like most people actually set their line widths to be higher, depending upon who you ask anywhere from 120 - 150 % nozzle diameter. \n\nWhy is this? They mention that it helps with print adhesion, but why? Shouldn't a 0.4 mm nozzle create a line of plastic 0.4 mm wide, necessitating a line spacing of 0.4 mm?\n\",user77232,\"I'll give a short answer here: It's the volume. The the nozzle redistributes the volume of the plastic into a different shape. i.e. the nozzle is turning a cylinder of 0.4 mm diameter into a rectangle of the same volume, which a function of the layer height / volume = line width.\n\",0.0,0.0\n6986,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ifconfig,2.1782824847157594,4.196075810684715,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,When is kapton tape useful as a bed adhesive?,\"I've long since been aware that some people swear by Kapton tape as a bed adhesive, with MatterHackers claiming that Kapton tape is the recommended bed adhesive for ABS. \n\nWhat makes Kapton tape so useful for printing with ABS? Is it also useful for printing with other materials?\n\",dgrat,\"I tested Kapton tape for PLA, ABS, PETG and XT. I know it works for other materials as well. What you need to keep in mind is that many materials only stick to Kapton tape well if you use a heated bed. \n\nThe advantage of Kapton tape in comparison to other materials is its heat endurance and mechanical stability. It protects the glass underneath, while you remove the print from the surface. Some filaments stick so well to glass that you may break chunks out of it. \n\nThe major disadvantage of Kapton tape is the time to apply the tape to the print surface and its very smooth surface pattern which seems odd in comparison to the rest of the print. \n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n7122,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ifconfig,2.528907649931287,4.843683141324226,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,PETG filament doesn't stick reliably to fake Buildtak surface,\"I just got my first spool of PETG and tried to calibrate an Ultimaker Cura profile for it on my Ender 3 today with limited success. \n\nI've had severe issues with the filament not sticking to the build surface, instead balling up around the edges of the nozzle tip. (rather like this post) Sometimes it sticks alright, but that happens properly > 50 % of the time. I've never seen this behavior with my PLA materials.\n\nSo far, I've only been trying to print this calibration part.\n\nRelevant Profile Params: (let me know if I need to post more, I think these are the relevant ones)\n\n\nLayer Height: 0.2 mm\nTemp\n\n\nNozzle: 240 °C\nBed: 60 °C\n\nPrint Speed: 60 mm/s (more specific params left to auto calculation)\nTravel Speed: 300 mm/s (max)\nCooling fan\n\n\nInitial: 0 %\nFan Speed: 100 %\n\nRetraction\n\n\nDistance: 5 mm\nSpeed: 50 mm/s\n\nSkirt min length: 250 mm\n\n\nI was initially going by advice from Thomas Sanlanderer's video on PETG, starting with 230 °C/70 °C, but when that really didn't work, I then tried the advice of a Reddit user (can't relocate thread) that said to try a lower bed temp. I then experimented with different bed temps in the 50's to mixed avail. Most other threads are talking about PETG + glass, which seems to work well with a PVA glue stick surface finish.\n\nI'm getting a glass build surface soon (as soon as GearBest can ship it from across the pond), and I hear that will help, but in the meantime, I want to find a way to make it work with the fake Buildtak. What can I do to try to make this work better? My thinking is that the issue is with the bed config (temp, surface, etc.) and not with the nozzle temp, but I could be wrong.\n\",0scar,\"I have printed kilometers of PETG and found the sweet-spot for my brand to be 240 °C for the hotend and 70 °C for the build plate (for my Ultimaker 3 that is, the extruder temp is 5 °C higher for my home build HyperCube Evolution). The reason for the 70 °C is that the glass temperature of PETG is around 70 °C. The PETG is flexible at that temperature such that there are no stresses because of shrinkage causing the PETG to keep attached to the heat bed surface (aluminium, glass, Buildtak, etc.). A little PVA based glue (stick) or spray (hair or specific print sprays) can even further improve the adhesion. A slow first layer also helps adhering better.\n\nNote that the hotend temperature should be calibrated to the speed you are printing. If you print faster, a higher hotend tempearture is required. To determine the sweet spot for your filament you can print typical calibration towers that can be found on e.g. Thingiverse. Note that you need to manually change the G-code file after slicing of the tower or use plugins of your slicer to change the temperature at a certain level.\n\nFurthermore, PETG does not like to be cooled by the print fan, so keep cooling fan rpm low to prevent layers not to bond (else you get a sort of string cheese print).\n\n\n\nEdit:\n\nI use parametric stair case style calibration prints that include the slicer print settings that are to determine the best settings for temperature, print cooling, layer size and print speed.\n\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n7122,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ifconfig,2.528907649931287,4.843683141324226,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,PETG filament doesn't stick reliably to fake Buildtak surface,\"I just got my first spool of PETG and tried to calibrate an Ultimaker Cura profile for it on my Ender 3 today with limited success. \n\nI've had severe issues with the filament not sticking to the build surface, instead balling up around the edges of the nozzle tip. (rather like this post) Sometimes it sticks alright, but that happens properly > 50 % of the time. I've never seen this behavior with my PLA materials.\n\nSo far, I've only been trying to print this calibration part.\n\nRelevant Profile Params: (let me know if I need to post more, I think these are the relevant ones)\n\n\nLayer Height: 0.2 mm\nTemp\n\n\nNozzle: 240 °C\nBed: 60 °C\n\nPrint Speed: 60 mm/s (more specific params left to auto calculation)\nTravel Speed: 300 mm/s (max)\nCooling fan\n\n\nInitial: 0 %\nFan Speed: 100 %\n\nRetraction\n\n\nDistance: 5 mm\nSpeed: 50 mm/s\n\nSkirt min length: 250 mm\n\n\nI was initially going by advice from Thomas Sanlanderer's video on PETG, starting with 230 °C/70 °C, but when that really didn't work, I then tried the advice of a Reddit user (can't relocate thread) that said to try a lower bed temp. I then experimented with different bed temps in the 50's to mixed avail. Most other threads are talking about PETG + glass, which seems to work well with a PVA glue stick surface finish.\n\nI'm getting a glass build surface soon (as soon as GearBest can ship it from across the pond), and I hear that will help, but in the meantime, I want to find a way to make it work with the fake Buildtak. What can I do to try to make this work better? My thinking is that the issue is with the bed config (temp, surface, etc.) and not with the nozzle temp, but I could be wrong.\n\",ifconfig,\"Thanks to the magic of r/3Dprinting, I have a solution. u/Lhelge helped me out with a tip:\n\n\n I would suggest a higher bed temperature. I print PETG at 80°-95° for the first layer depending on which printer. Then I go down a bit for the second layer.\n\n\nI then started out by trying a 250 °C/80 °C temperature config and sure enough, it worked great. I managed to tune my profile down to 250 °C/70 °C and up from 50 mm/s to 70 mm/s.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7127,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ifconfig,2.8153892694839717,3.1237389567344533,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,What are the limiting factors when trying to print flexible filaments with a Bowden extruder setup?,\"Other than the most obvious issue with the filament kinking in the tube, what other issues could arise when trying to print flexibles (i.e. TPU/TPE, Nylon, etc.) with a Bowden style extruder setup? \n\nCan the kinking issue be alleviated by a well-constrained filament path (proper ID) in a properly sized Bowden tube?\n\",Sava,\"As a user of an UM3E, which uses Bowden tubes and has TPU as an available material, I can tell you that the kinking issues can be alleviated or downright avoided. \n\nI've printed quite a few things with the Ultimaker-brand TPU 95, and never had problems with kinking in the tube. \n\nUltimaker uses 2.85 mm filament, with Bowden tubes adapted for those and a rear motor, i.e. the motor is on the back on the printer and not right on top of the print head.\n\nI personally wouldn't consider Nylon as one of the really flexible material, but that's my opinion. Never had kinking in the Bowden tube with Nylon either in my UM3E.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n7127,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ifconfig,2.8153892694839717,3.1237389567344533,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,What are the limiting factors when trying to print flexible filaments with a Bowden extruder setup?,\"Other than the most obvious issue with the filament kinking in the tube, what other issues could arise when trying to print flexibles (i.e. TPU/TPE, Nylon, etc.) with a Bowden style extruder setup? \n\nCan the kinking issue be alleviated by a well-constrained filament path (proper ID) in a properly sized Bowden tube?\n\",Brebinator,\"To also validate the first answer, I have been printing with TPU95A for a number of years and it has been one of the most reliable materials to use. The strength of the product alongside the flex makes it a test and production based outcome with fewer issues. My printer for the most part of this experience was the Ultimaker 2+ that has a similar set up to the UM3 with a more traditional hot end.\n\nCautions: Some older material profiles have the heatbed at 60c. I have always had better outcomes from room temp (no heat on the bed). \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7131,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ifconfig,2.528907649931287,4.3108615564601385,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.104288080884247,What is the point of diminishing returns on the STL refinement level in Fusion 360 on an Ender 3?,\"When exporting an STL from Fusion 360, one must select an STL refinement level to use for calculating the maximum triangle count. \n\nFor FDM printing (0.05mm and above layer heights), where is the point of diminishing returns on STL refinement level when printing PLA and PETG on an Ender 3 with a 0.4mm nozzle? All mechanical components on the printer are stock.\n\n \n\",mbmcavoy,\"I don't know that this can be definitively answered for a specific printer and all arbitrary designs.\n\nThe refinement level basically determines how smooth a curved surface will turn out. The STL file format can only express an object in terms of triangular-shaped surfaces, so Fusion 360 will need to approximate a curved surface by breaking it up into triangles. Flat surfaces and straight edges can be represented perfectly, so they won't be affected. Low refinement will use a small number of relatively large triangles. On a part like your example, the cylindrical shaft will have noticeable facets. Higher refinement means a larger number of smaller triangles.\n\nIf you have \"\"Preview Mesh\"\" checked as shown, you will be able to see the triangle wireframe, and you can use your own judgment if it's \"\"good enough\"\".\n\nUltimately, higher refinement means longer processing times and larger file sizes. The final print time won't be affected much if any.\n\nPersonally, I always use high refinement. Even on my modest system, it only takes a few more seconds to prepare a multi-hour print, and maybe a few hundred kilobytes or a couple megabytes on my hard drive that I will barely notice. This is a small tradeoff to ensure the best possible STL definition.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n7131,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ifconfig,2.528907649931287,4.3108615564601385,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.104288080884247,What is the point of diminishing returns on the STL refinement level in Fusion 360 on an Ender 3?,\"When exporting an STL from Fusion 360, one must select an STL refinement level to use for calculating the maximum triangle count. \n\nFor FDM printing (0.05mm and above layer heights), where is the point of diminishing returns on STL refinement level when printing PLA and PETG on an Ender 3 with a 0.4mm nozzle? All mechanical components on the printer are stock.\n\n \n\",0scar,\"STL file size should not matter these days as far as the memory and storage sizes are concerned. These are generally large enough (unless you have very large and complicated STL files of large dimensions), so saving an STL in low or high resolution should usually be a matter of megabytes. However, the higher the resolution the more processor calculation time is needed.\n\nFusion 360 defines the STL generation through 3 predefined settings from a coarse to a fine setting. Indeed, coarse settings may result in poor resolution regarding curved surfaces. If the resolution is more coarse than the print resolution, you will definitely see this in your sliced print as you can identify the triangles of which the STL file consists of.\n\nAs far as there is no clear objective point of diminishing returns, the question cannot be answered. But, slicing with a higher resolution than print resolution does not seem sensible, it creates larger files which cannot be printed to that level of detail. But there is no downfall other than larger storage space and computation speed.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7164,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ifconfig,2.528907649931287,4.030217835765849,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Cura 3.5 doesn't launch repeatably,\"When I was notified by Cura that 3.5 was out, I looked at the changelog, and I installed the new version. It worked normally for a time, until once when I went to launch it and cura.exe forever sat idle in task manager doing nothing. I reinstalled Cura 3.5 and tried again. \n\nThat then worked for some time, maybe another couple days, and then the same thing happened again. Rince and repeat, maybe for a few more cycles. Now, Cura 3.5 doesn't like to do anything even fresh out of the box. Restarting the computer does nothing.\n\nI've looked at the cura.log file in AppData/Roaming/cura and found a peculiar line:\n\n...\n2018-10-10 21:49:33,591 - INFO - [MainThread] UM.VersionUpgradeManager._upgradeFile [369]: Upgraded .\\fdmextruder+%232_user.inst.cfg to version 4000005.\n2018-10-10 21:49:33,605 - DEBUG - [MainThread] UM.Backend.Backend._logSocketState [178]: Socket state changed to Listening\n2018-10-10 21:49:33,650 - INFO - [MainThread] UM.Backend.Backend.startEngine [74]: Started engine process: C:\\Program Files\\Ultimaker Cura 3.5\\CuraEngine.exe\n2018-10-10 21:49:33,652 - DEBUG - [MainThread] UM.Backend.Backend._backendLog [94]: [Backend] Calling engine with: ['C:\\\\Program Files\\\\Ultimaker Cura 3.5\\\\CuraEngine.exe', 'connect', '127.0.0.1:49674', '-j', 'C:\\\\Program Files\\\\Ultimaker Cura 3.5\\\\resources\\\\definitions\\\\fdmprinter.def.json', '']\n\n\nIt looks as if the issue is when the Cura GUI tries to connect to its backend slicing engine. Is my analysis correct? Is this a known issue/is there a known fix?\n\nI'm going to try to report this to Ultimaker if nothing comes up here.\n\",0scar,\"Issues like these are not new, I have experienced similar issues (see e.g. this topic, but more can be found) with an installation of an older version. At the moment of writing there is already a reported issue with Ultimaker Cura 3.5.\n\nIt is generally best to mention problems with a specific software application at the developers own forum or tech support. This will catch a more specific type of users as well as the developers themselves.\n\nA workaround, but not a definite solution, is to remove the settings (on the Windows platform these files are located in AppData/Roaming/cura) that Ultimaker Cura uses and remove prior installations and do a fresh re-install of 3.5 and see if this works. Just rename the directory to e.g. AppData/Roaming/cura_old, this way you can always go back.\n\nThe drawback of this solution is that all material profiles and printer setups are lost as you start completely new. This is not a problem if you have a single printer and no custom materials defined, but in my case it was a lot of work to get all profiles back. \n\nThese issues could be related to the profile settings and storage model, which, at the time of the older installations was not very stable. A new material model was required, if that has been replaced is still a question.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n8121,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ifconfig,1.0891412423578797,3.191554579001479,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,How to level bed after applying glue stick for bed adhesion,\"I'm pretty new to printing PETG, and my Creality Ender 3 now has a glass print bed. I've done some research, and it looks like a pretty bad idea to try and print PETG on a pure glass surface for fear of the print pulling chinks of glass along with it.\n\nSo, I've looked into various bed adhesion options. I've already used blue tape, but I'll need to purchase some wide stuff, and in the meantime, I want to investigate using PVA-based glue stick. However, one question does come to mind: how can I set the bed-nozzle distance after applying the glue stick layer?\n\nDo I even need to? Will the extruded plastic just crush it into the build plate without a problem, saving me the trouble of lowering the build plate? My normal method of sliding a paper sheet under the nozzle at Z = 0 mm would take the glue stick layer along with it if I tried that.\n\",0scar,\"How much glue do you put on it? I use PVA based spray, barely visible, very evenly spread and no problem whatsoever of sticking paper to the glue layer.\n\nJust level the bed as you normally would and apply a sparsely coat of glue, preferably from a spray can.\n\nHaving printed literally kilometers of PETG on various build platforms (various glass sheets with or without PVA based glue, Aluminium and PEI), chipping of glass is not something I have seen happening. Perhaps is very low quality glass is used, chipping may occur. Whether your glass is of decent quality can be tested, just print on one side, and if it chips you always have the other side. Printing on PEI with PETG is another chapter, PETG just fuses to PEI and is very difficult to remove, a PVA based glue helps, but still prints were very hard to remove.\n\nInvest in a can of build plate adhesion spray, it lasts long, never gives you problems with adhesion and probably is even cheaper than glue sticks (per mass unit).\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n6671,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,AwesomeTown,3.0576060275493275,5.546059246119244,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Setting custom x/y bed bounds for Anet A8/marlin,\"I have an Anet A8 that I just flashed with the latest Marlin firmware (1.1.9). I'm sending prints to my printer with Ultimaker Cura via OctoPrint.\n\nI have affixed a PEI surface to my bed that's about 10 mm smaller in each direction than the full size of the bed (that is, I lose about 5 mm on each side of the bed). This hasn't been a huge problem as usually I account for this myself and just make sure there's lots of room on each side of a print, but having upgraded my firmware, I'd like to take advantage of Marlin's bi-linear bed-levelling. Unfortunately, several of the points it chooses are outside the bounds of my PEI surface and so it's impossible to get a decent setting for those points.\n\nWhat's the \"\"correct\"\" way to configure Marlin to know that my bed size is actually smaller than it thinks it is? Do I need to additionally adjust settings in Ultimaker Cura and/or OctoPrint?\n\",Trish,\"As you just flashed your own Marlin, you probably have the marlin.ino and its associated files in the Arduino IDE set for your Processor and board and know how to work with them to some degree. This is just the short version where to find what you need to change the bed size, if the marlin.ino is based on the marlinfw-release.\n\nChanging \"\"home\"\"\n\nIn Configuration.h there should be a set of lines that reads akin to this:\n\n// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.\n#define X_MIN_POS 0\n#define Y_MIN_POS 0\n#define Z_MIN_POS 0\n#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE\n#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE\n#define Z_MAX_POS 200\n\n\nUsually it is faster to use Ctrl+F and then typing in X_MIN_POS and adding the hook in front of Search all Sketch Tabs and then moving through all the finds till the right one pops up. This not only brings you right to the lines you want to alter, but also covers up the bases in case the distribution you work with did put the movement limits into a different location like Configruration_adv.h.\n\nChanging Bed Size\n\nAlter these minimum positions and make sure that the Maximum positions (usually just after them) to fit the maximum of the bed.\n\nIf you reduced your bed size, you also might need to change X_BED_SIZE and Y_BED_SIZE, which (in the marlin.ino) is in the same Configuration.h - I found it to preceede the Travel limits:\n\n// The size of the print bed\n#define X_BED_SIZE 200\n#define Y_BED_SIZE 200\n\n\nAdjust these as needed to fit the new sizing.\n\nHint: Getting the Values for Adjusting\n\nFor finding the adjusted values, I have had good experiences using Repetier Host on Manual Control to move the nozzle (lifted 1mm to prevent any accidents) into the correct XY-position and taking this position as adjustments for the minimum positions. Finding your personal settings is a bit of a trial and error still, so take your time.\n\nFinishing up\n\nNow, recompile the marlin.ino (the checkmark in the top left) to check for errors and flash the new firmware it.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n6687,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,arunabha42,2.528907649931287,4.775735154698014,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Creality CR-10 Clogs and Underextrusion - Filament at fault?,\"I've been printing successfully on my CR-10 for the past year now. I've had issues now and then but have been able to look around the internet and solve them. I've been using some Flashforge white PLA with great results.\n\nExample:\n\n\nLast week I got a couple of new rolls of filament, black and orange. SinceI tried printing with them, I've got nothing but jams. The white prints fine, however.\n\n\n\n\n\nI dug around online and found this was happening to my printer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vH_spN5wyw\n\nSo yesterday I opened up my hotend to clean it out and got quite a bit of gunk out:\n\n\n\nI also changed my nozzle. I printed some with the old white PLA and printed fine. The moment I switched over to the new orange filament, it jammed after a few layers.\n\nI ensured my nozzle was tightened and then got to measuring the filament. The older white one is 1.75mm in most places with some at 1.73mm.\n\nThe new ones that I got are pretty inconsistent - the orange one ranging from 1.68mm to 1.72mm; I found very few places where it was actually 1.75mm. The black one averaged 1.72mm.\n\nSo I made the change in my slicer but even then the first layer was visibly underextruding and it jammed soon after. I took apart the hotend and cleaned it out. Now, I put the white one back and its back printing fine.\n\nShould I go ahead and return the filament?\n\",Trish,\"Not all filaments are created equal. Even with the very same manufacturer, the addition of colorful pigments can change the needed printing temperature a lot! I have had a white china PLA that was giving ok quality at 200°C, but the same brand's clear PLA only took 195°C to print. My white Kaisertech prints better at the 200°C while orange needs a little more, something about 205°C - this is the same brand and manufacturer mind you. The matte \"\"natural\"\" PLA I have even needs some more heat, 210°C.\n\nAs a rule of thumb: Printing temerature is filament dependant. Test around (there are temperature tests - use them!) to find the ideal one for each brand and color combo you have.\n\nIt is also a goood idea to replace the claps on the Bowden tube, if the plugs appear more often.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n6687,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,arunabha42,2.528907649931287,4.775735154698014,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Creality CR-10 Clogs and Underextrusion - Filament at fault?,\"I've been printing successfully on my CR-10 for the past year now. I've had issues now and then but have been able to look around the internet and solve them. I've been using some Flashforge white PLA with great results.\n\nExample:\n\n\nLast week I got a couple of new rolls of filament, black and orange. SinceI tried printing with them, I've got nothing but jams. The white prints fine, however.\n\n\n\n\n\nI dug around online and found this was happening to my printer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vH_spN5wyw\n\nSo yesterday I opened up my hotend to clean it out and got quite a bit of gunk out:\n\n\n\nI also changed my nozzle. I printed some with the old white PLA and printed fine. The moment I switched over to the new orange filament, it jammed after a few layers.\n\nI ensured my nozzle was tightened and then got to measuring the filament. The older white one is 1.75mm in most places with some at 1.73mm.\n\nThe new ones that I got are pretty inconsistent - the orange one ranging from 1.68mm to 1.72mm; I found very few places where it was actually 1.75mm. The black one averaged 1.72mm.\n\nSo I made the change in my slicer but even then the first layer was visibly underextruding and it jammed soon after. I took apart the hotend and cleaned it out. Now, I put the white one back and its back printing fine.\n\nShould I go ahead and return the filament?\n\",profesor79,\"From attached pictures I can see that some of the printouts are not sticking enough to the bed (that can be a non-leveled bed).\n\nAs you are printing directly on the glass ensure that the area is clean (no fat or other organic substances - clean with alcohol or another grease remover) or use a PVA glue to get better adhesion.\n\nIf the Z height is to low it can clog the nozzle, if to high then print will not stick.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6715,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,entropicCreator,1.726248027126092,3.993215425283658,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Adding a battery backup power supply,\"So apparently the wiring in my home is... questionable. Very rarely, plugging or unplugging things will cause a power dip. This is almost always the result of turning on a fan or something, is only for a moment before coming back, but its long enough to cause my printer to reset. I want to add a backup battery supply using either the 12v cell pulled out of an old apc ups (before the suggestion of just plugging it into that... I did, somethings fried in it and it will ALSO power cycle everything connected to it every few hours) or an old car battery. Is there any reason I shouldn't use this circuit, which was originally intended for amateur radio equipment? \n\nAlso is there anything else i should be considering?\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"There are a couple of points to consider with this question. First, you will need to make sure the PSU is correctly adjusted to the float charge voltage of the 12V battery. SLA should be safe to float charge, but over voltage will damage it over time.\n\nOne alternative solution (since powering the heaters will limit your run time) is to detect power failure, cut the heaters immediately, and save state to EEPROM in the firmware. This is the approach taken in the latest Prusa printers, and is a bit more complex, but might turn out to be more reliable.\n\nIf the problem you are solving really is brown-outs, then a simpler solution might be to isolate the high current and control sides of the circuit. The MCU will be run from a regulated 5V or 3V3, so a large capacitor (with diode isolation) on that regulator's input would do the trick.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6715,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,entropicCreator,1.726248027126092,3.993215425283658,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Adding a battery backup power supply,\"So apparently the wiring in my home is... questionable. Very rarely, plugging or unplugging things will cause a power dip. This is almost always the result of turning on a fan or something, is only for a moment before coming back, but its long enough to cause my printer to reset. I want to add a backup battery supply using either the 12v cell pulled out of an old apc ups (before the suggestion of just plugging it into that... I did, somethings fried in it and it will ALSO power cycle everything connected to it every few hours) or an old car battery. Is there any reason I shouldn't use this circuit, which was originally intended for amateur radio equipment? \n\nAlso is there anything else i should be considering?\n\",profesor79,\"This circuit is correct as it does the job (provides a charge and switch-over when needed). \n\nThe only drawback could be that you need to ensure that the battery is sealed as during the charging process the electlorit will slowly evaporate and decrease battery capacity.\n\nI am personally using a UPC as that gives me more options to power-up more stuff including 240V heater and it has a self-test built-in (it is APC1500VA).\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6744,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Baalaji V,2.1782824847157594,5.017215538549123,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Stepper motors are not working when connected with RAMPS 1.4,\"ISSUE: Stepper motors are not working when connected with RAMPS 1.4.\n\nOBSERVATION: The LED lights(LED 2,3,4) in the RAMPS 1.4 is not powering up.\n\nPRACTICES: I use Arduino Mega 2560 and installed Marlin firmware in it. And I bought a RAMPS 1.4 in a local electronic dealer. I placed the RAMPS over Arduino Mega 2560. For testing I just connected 2 NEMA 17 stepper motors with RAMPS. When USB port connection is given from laptop to Arduino board, a LED light is ON in Arduino board (L) and in RAMPS (LED 1). I use SMPS 12 V 20 A as a PSU for RAMPS. But in RAMPS the LED 2, 3, 4 are not switched ON. I checked the input voltage to the RAMPS using micrometer and it shows 11.75 V. But there is no output from the RAMPS.\n\nAlso I installed and tried Repetier firmware and Grbl but it doesn't work. And I use Windows 10 pro 64 bit OS.\n\nWhen I flashed Arduino with Grbl, in this case all of the LEDs on the Arduino and RAMPS 1.4 are switched ON. I use Candle GRBL software to test the stepper motors.\n\nAnd I replaced and tested with another RAMPS which is bought from Amazon but the problem remains unchanged.\n\nKindly give some suggestions at the earliest.\n\nI have attached the images of my circuit connection:\n\n\n\n\n\n \n\nBoard selection in Marlin:\n\n#ifndef MOTHERBOARD \n#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB \n#endif \n\n\nAdditional clarifications\n\nIn response to Professor's questions:\n\n\nYes the stepper drivers are connected correctly \nYes the stepper wiring is accurate (2B 2A 1A 1B) as per mentioned in the Ramps 1.4. \nNo there is no voltage input to stepper motor. But there is 12V input to Ramps 1.4. \nDisabled cold extrusion \nNo, the firmware is not set to no move before homing (issue G28 first) \nYes, pins are set correctly for your board in Marlin\n\n\",profesor79,\"to help you to solve this problem - please see my checklist\n\n\nare the stepper drivers connected correctly (pin1 to pin1)?\nstepper wiring is accurate (1a-1a..2b-2b)?\nis there enough voltage provided to the steppers (regulate)?\nif you are trying to move E0 or E1 then you need to disable cold extrusion as that stops rotation (waiting for 170C deg on the nozzle)\nis the firmware set to no move before homing (issue G28 first)?\nare pins set correctly for your board in Marlin?\n\n\nthe led's are set on my ramps as they are mostly giving a stutus for heater fan and bed, so grbl software could use those pins differently\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6744,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Baalaji V,2.1782824847157594,5.017215538549123,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Stepper motors are not working when connected with RAMPS 1.4,\"ISSUE: Stepper motors are not working when connected with RAMPS 1.4.\n\nOBSERVATION: The LED lights(LED 2,3,4) in the RAMPS 1.4 is not powering up.\n\nPRACTICES: I use Arduino Mega 2560 and installed Marlin firmware in it. And I bought a RAMPS 1.4 in a local electronic dealer. I placed the RAMPS over Arduino Mega 2560. For testing I just connected 2 NEMA 17 stepper motors with RAMPS. When USB port connection is given from laptop to Arduino board, a LED light is ON in Arduino board (L) and in RAMPS (LED 1). I use SMPS 12 V 20 A as a PSU for RAMPS. But in RAMPS the LED 2, 3, 4 are not switched ON. I checked the input voltage to the RAMPS using micrometer and it shows 11.75 V. But there is no output from the RAMPS.\n\nAlso I installed and tried Repetier firmware and Grbl but it doesn't work. And I use Windows 10 pro 64 bit OS.\n\nWhen I flashed Arduino with Grbl, in this case all of the LEDs on the Arduino and RAMPS 1.4 are switched ON. I use Candle GRBL software to test the stepper motors.\n\nAnd I replaced and tested with another RAMPS which is bought from Amazon but the problem remains unchanged.\n\nKindly give some suggestions at the earliest.\n\nI have attached the images of my circuit connection:\n\n\n\n\n\n \n\nBoard selection in Marlin:\n\n#ifndef MOTHERBOARD \n#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB \n#endif \n\n\nAdditional clarifications\n\nIn response to Professor's questions:\n\n\nYes the stepper drivers are connected correctly \nYes the stepper wiring is accurate (2B 2A 1A 1B) as per mentioned in the Ramps 1.4. \nNo there is no voltage input to stepper motor. But there is 12V input to Ramps 1.4. \nDisabled cold extrusion \nNo, the firmware is not set to no move before homing (issue G28 first) \nYes, pins are set correctly for your board in Marlin\n\n\",Baalaji V,\"I actually thought the problem is in the electronic circuit but the problem is the baud rate. I initially took the baud rate as 115200 but later. after someone's suggestion, I changed it to 250000 and now it's fine.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7034,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Baalaji V,2.8153892694839717,5.314583735128087,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Issues with Auto Bed Leveling,\"I have enabled auto bed leveling on my 3D printer. I have used a 6-36 V inductive sensor with a 7805 voltage regulator running the sensor at 10.78 V.\n\nI am using Marlin 1.1.9. This is my configuration file for Marlin firmware. I used this video for marlin setup.\n\nI have done a voltage regulator setup by using this video.\n\nI have place an Aluminium plate with insulated copper wire. (I also tried an Iron plate). After Setting this I use Pronterface to control the printer. While homing command is given the XY axis gets home and Z axis moves downwards and doesn't stops even the Light in the sensor gets ON. This video I made shows that it does not stop.\n\nAnd also once the Zmin gets TRIGGERED, it is always TRIGGERED. \n\nAfter I enabled SAFE_HOMING, the XY axis comes to the centre of the printer. And Z axis goes down again without stopping.\n\nPlease help me in this.\n\",0scar,\"Your problem is that the hotend carriage does not stop when the sensor triggers. I assume you mean \"\"on homing\"\", not \"\"while printing\"\" (UPDATE: after watching the video it is confirmed that it is \"\"on homing\"\"). First, the working and this difference is explained. Thereafter your configuration file is assessed and typical errors or inconsistencies are reported. Note that assassing an existing configuration file is more work than for you to start over taking the consideration below into account. Also look into this answer which describes what you need to do starting from a clean configuration file.\n\n\n\nNote:\nWhy not test if the sensor works at higher Z values by using a metal screwdriver to test if the head stops, then you do not run into the bed (with way less change to damage your printer). From the video you can see that the sensor triggers, does the signal also gets registered by the printer board? With M119 you test the endstop status of all endstops.\n\n\n\nAuto bed leveling theory\nAn auto level sensor does not trigger exactly when the nozzle hits the bed like in normal leveling using switches. The sensor is meant to detect the bed before the nozzle touches the bed. It is the offset that you define with command M851 e.g. M851 Z-1.85 that determines the correct offset between sensor trigger point and the nozzle. After homing G28 and auto bed leveling G29, the nozzle needs to get under the sensor trigger point (e.g. in the example above it is then still 1.85 mm away from the platform) so while printing it is perfectly fine that the sensor stays triggered until printing height gets above 1.85 mm. This gives an answer why you see the head go past the trigger point when printing, when homing or leveling that should not happen. \n\nConfiguration file observations\nFrom your configuration can be seen that\n\n//#define Z_SAFE_HOMING\n\n\nis not enabled, this is advised to enable. This is important, but not the complete solution. \n\nAlso, you have not defined the auto leveling area by setting the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach). In your config you will find disabled constants for (see also this answer):\n\n//#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE\n//#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n//#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE\n//#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n\n\nYou only have defined a Y sensor offset in your configuration :\n\n#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 43 \n\n\nbut the video and the comments say otherwise, you should therefore should have set: \n\n#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 43 \n\n\nso e.g. the following could work (depending on the offset from limit switch position to printer origin):\n\n#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE\n#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE + Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER\n#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n\n\nAnother part in your configuration that need further inspection is your offset from limit switch position (when homing) to printer origin; you have:\n\n#define X_MIN_POS 0\n#define Y_MIN_POS 0\n\n\nThis is very unlikely, but possible, it means as is that the X=0 and Y=0 is exactly on the limit switches for X and Y. Usually this is not the case and you see negative values for these constants.\n\nAll-in-all, your configuration file has a lot of problems which need to be fixed. To solve your problem you need to read into configuring Marlin. Once you got the printer working fine you progress to an ABL sensor and make the correct settings in the configuration by using the hints above.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n7172,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Baalaji V,2.1782824847157594,4.409132006173985,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Dual extruder clogging problem,\"I have attached a dual extruder (2 in 2 out) to my 3D printer. There is a repeating problem of clogging while printing.\n\nI have fixed Chimera hotend. \n\n\n\nA big fan, which covers area more than the double extruder, cools both cold ends. An additional fan directly on the front (as seen in the picture) cold end cools the ribs directly. The back does not have an additional fan.\n\nI tried to print after attaching an extra fan; the first print went well but from there on, the hotend gets clogged every time I print.\n\nThe clogging happens in melt zone. I have tried cleaning the hot-end, but to no avail...\n\nMy settings are as below:\n\n\nPrint speed = 60mm/sec\nTemperature = 210C\nFilament material = PLA\nFilament diameter = 1.75,\nNozzle Diameter = 0.4\nDual extrusion switch amount = 16.5mm\nRetraction speed = 40mm/sec,\nRetraction Distance = 4.5mm,\nDisabled Wipe and Prime tower and ooze shield\n\n\nPlease advise what to do.\n\",0scar,\"It appears (now confirmed in your question) that you are using a Chimera 2-in-2-out hotend like depicted below:\n\n\n\nChimera hotends generally use all-metal heat breaks (not confirmed yet) which are harder to operate than \"\"normal\"\" PTFE lined hotends. A common problem that happens is that heat creeps up causing problems as a result of too slow printing or too high retraction length settings. Basically your problem is clogging related to all-metal heat break printing. This is recently asked in this question: \"\"Apparently systematic nozzle clogging\"\". Please read the answers to that question as they describe very well what happens and what to do.\n\nQuoting from this article explains that it is a heating/cooling issue: \n\n\n Jams and clogs are often from a combination of excessive heat and\n non-optimal material flow. This effect is worsened by poorly cooled\n all-metal hot ends, high torque extruder gears, small nozzles/layers,\n slow printing speeds, too thin first layer, and excessive retraction.\n\n\nPlease do read this article and the solutions they mention to get yourself acquainted with the problem and its solutions. \n\nIn your case this could well be a cooling issue in combination with a too high print temperature and a possibly too high retraction length setting (depends on the length of the Bowden tube). The fan you mounted in the front (onto the cooling ribs, so the rightt fan in your image) is too large for this hotend. You attached the fan to the left top mounting hole so that it exceeds the right and bottom area of your cooling ribs. Furthermore, this larger fan has a larger center (hub) to house the bigger engine so that you end up with a lower cooling flow for at least the right extruder as most of the cooling ribs area is blocked by the fan hub. Please fit a fan that fits this hotend. Printing a fan adaptors may not work as well, these fans have a very low static pressure difference, so a convergent duct may not work as well as you might think. Considering your temperature you are printing PLA; PLA could usually be printed well in the 185 - 195 °C temperature range (depending on the PLA), 210 °C seems a bit on the high side. \n\nAnother solution could be replacing the heat breaks for lined heat breaks:\n\n\n\n\nAs an aside, to explain a suggestion, in Himanshu's comment to coat your filament with some oils:\n\n\n Apply some oil on PLA filament with cotton.\n\n\nOil does lower friction in an all-metal hotend, but please beware that this needs to be vegetable oil. The reasoning behind this is that the oil hardens inside the throat to create a smooth coating on the inside, not lube the inside of the throat. This thread has some interesting material on that. \n\nHowever, general consensus is not to do that:\n\n\n Micro-Swiss use slippery platings and such, they don't need it. I've\n also used B3 Picos and E3D v5, v6, Volcano and Chimera and even that\n one garbage QUBD mk7 knockoff. Never needed oil.\n\n\nor\n\n\n Seasoning hotends is a myth that refuses to die. Just don't do it, it\n does more harm than good.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6747,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,DonaldEnte,3.0576060275493275,5.649572899692103,1.7539669625835614,5.646830619998737,3.320478682445624,2.3995491493854546,Constant under extrusion and filament grinding,\"I sadly have a big problem since a couple of weeks and I cant fix it myself. For over 20 prints, I had the same problems: At the start, everything goes well but at some point of time, my Creality CR-10 starts under extruding and after like 1 minute, NO filament is extruded anymore and the 3D printer moves over the printing bed without extruding anything. After that, I have to pull out the filament and the feeder always grinds into it.\n\nSome problem with the hotend (so the feeder works well but it cant push the filament through somehow - I cleaned the nozzle and couldn't find anything wrong there. When I push the filament through by hand it gets extruded but after a failed print, it is VERY hard to pull it back (because of the filament being slightly bigger at the nozzle - hard to remove! - \n\nThat could be the problem:\n\nI just tried to remove the filament from the printer (another failed print) I had to use two tongs because the filament was so hard to pull back. I noticed that the diameter of the PLA close to the hotend was a lot bigger (way over 1.75 mm) For about 5 cm that's a very long distance - that's the reason why it's hard to pull back (and also push through?) But I don't know why that happens... If I get an answer for that, I think that I have solved my problem\n\nI already tried printing at 50 % which didn't work.\n\n\nCreality CR-10 with 0.4 mm nozzle, \n1.75 mm PLA filament used (white)\n0.27 mm layer height\n45 mm/s printing speed at 220° (I can easily push the filament through at 200° by hand)\n60° bed temp\n\n\nAnd here some pictures of the failed prints:\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nI think I can exclude these:\n\nIt could be: (the things I can imagine but don't have a solution for)\n\n\nThe feeder being too strong/my new PLA filament being too soft\nMaybe a software problem? I'm using the newest Cura version and I don't know what could be wrong there.\n\n\nThe filament seems to run out of the hotend. Something is really broken here. I tried to lower the print temperature and don't have an issue (at least not that big) with pulling out the filament but instead, the feeder started grinding into the filament again.\n\n\n\nI'm very happy for any answer and possible solutions. \n\",DonaldEnte,\"FIXED BY REPLACING THE HOTEND. THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP :)\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n6747,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,DonaldEnte,3.0576060275493275,5.649572899692103,1.7539669625835614,5.646830619998737,3.320478682445624,2.3995491493854546,Constant under extrusion and filament grinding,\"I sadly have a big problem since a couple of weeks and I cant fix it myself. For over 20 prints, I had the same problems: At the start, everything goes well but at some point of time, my Creality CR-10 starts under extruding and after like 1 minute, NO filament is extruded anymore and the 3D printer moves over the printing bed without extruding anything. After that, I have to pull out the filament and the feeder always grinds into it.\n\nSome problem with the hotend (so the feeder works well but it cant push the filament through somehow - I cleaned the nozzle and couldn't find anything wrong there. When I push the filament through by hand it gets extruded but after a failed print, it is VERY hard to pull it back (because of the filament being slightly bigger at the nozzle - hard to remove! - \n\nThat could be the problem:\n\nI just tried to remove the filament from the printer (another failed print) I had to use two tongs because the filament was so hard to pull back. I noticed that the diameter of the PLA close to the hotend was a lot bigger (way over 1.75 mm) For about 5 cm that's a very long distance - that's the reason why it's hard to pull back (and also push through?) But I don't know why that happens... If I get an answer for that, I think that I have solved my problem\n\nI already tried printing at 50 % which didn't work.\n\n\nCreality CR-10 with 0.4 mm nozzle, \n1.75 mm PLA filament used (white)\n0.27 mm layer height\n45 mm/s printing speed at 220° (I can easily push the filament through at 200° by hand)\n60° bed temp\n\n\nAnd here some pictures of the failed prints:\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nI think I can exclude these:\n\nIt could be: (the things I can imagine but don't have a solution for)\n\n\nThe feeder being too strong/my new PLA filament being too soft\nMaybe a software problem? I'm using the newest Cura version and I don't know what could be wrong there.\n\n\nThe filament seems to run out of the hotend. Something is really broken here. I tried to lower the print temperature and don't have an issue (at least not that big) with pulling out the filament but instead, the feeder started grinding into the filament again.\n\n\n\nI'm very happy for any answer and possible solutions. \n\",user77232,\"There are many reasons why that could be happening. The simplest one:\n\n\nThe nozzle may be clogged/has debris. Push the filament down into the hot end with your hand to see if more force will cause a better flow rate. Also, if the filament tries to curl as it's coming out of the nozzle (in any direction) there is is most likely a blockage in the nozzle. \nThere is a gap between the teflon tube and nozzle, resulting in a larger melt zone which makes it harder to push the filament through.\nThe extruder cooling fan isn't working which allows the heat to travel up heat brake, extending the melt zone.\nThe extruder gear may be dirty with plastic debris/dust/rust. This will cause slipping. The fact that the print starts working but then fails seems to indicate that the problem is progressive, indicative of slipping.\nThe motor is under-powered, resulting in step loss and a cumulative error during printing. \nThe filament is poor. Voids and inconsistent diameters used to be a problem that caused print fails long ago, but not so much these days.\nThe stepper motor drivers are over heating and shutting down intermittently during printing, resulting in cumulative errors. Use a house fan/ or other suitable fan to cool the board. I had one Anet A8 mainboard die on me due to over heating.\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6883,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,DonaldEnte,2.1782824847157594,4.371038953414892,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,(Cura setting) How can I fix this? No top layer,\"problem solved by resetting cura.\n\nI have problems like this: How can I fix this? I can't find the right setting.\n\n\n\nAlso, what are these yellow lines? Do you know how to remove them? They disappear when I disable to show the brim/raft/skirt.\n\n\n\n\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"I'm pretty sure the yellow lines are showing the full path of the extruder head, including where it's retracted. Somewhere in Cura's maze of menus, there's an option to turn on/off various displays related to the slicing. \n\nAs to why the top layer isn't there -- most likely it's too thin in your source model. You might try enabling \"\"Print thin walls\"\" options in the Preferences advanced list. BTW, if you post the original STL or CAD file, we might be able to provide more accurate diagnosis.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n6883,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,DonaldEnte,2.1782824847157594,4.371038953414892,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,(Cura setting) How can I fix this? No top layer,\"problem solved by resetting cura.\n\nI have problems like this: How can I fix this? I can't find the right setting.\n\n\n\nAlso, what are these yellow lines? Do you know how to remove them? They disappear when I disable to show the brim/raft/skirt.\n\n\n\n\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"This problem appears when a face is inverted, so the slicer confuses and expect the other wall to close the object. So you need to reverse that face to show the face out and the back face inside the shape to be filled\n\n \n\nI will edit this answer with more examples\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6914,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,DonaldEnte,3.618048892289167,5.125587993489693,0.0,4.022883302450398,4.620985695623129,4.592941926651472,\"Filament isn't going into the Bowden tube, instead it goes \"\"into the room\"\"\",\"The pictures explain my problem. I have already tried to reduce the retraction but that showed no effect. Thank you for your help. \n\nThe effect is a total stop of the print (no material is extruded).\n\n\nCreality CR 10\nCura 3.4.1\n\n\nI recently added this new feeder aluminium block because the 3D printed stock version was bad quality.\n\n\n\n\n\",tjb1,\"This is typically caused by resistance in the tube or hotend but in your case it appears to be mostly caused by a very poorly designed extruder. The filament needs to be constrained closer to the drive gear. You may be able to drill out the PTC connector to allow the PTFE tube to reach closer to the gears or print a spacer to fit in between but you need to support the filament in that gap.\n\nYou can try raising the hotend temperature as a band-aid until you can fix the problem, do not exceed 240 C if you have a PTFE lined hotend. Long retractions can also pull molten filament into the cold zone where it solidifies and make extrusion harder.\n\nAs an example, here is a picture of a Bondtech BMG extruder. Note how the extruder constrains the filament path all the way from the drive gear to the hotend entrance. While this example is extreme for normal PLA/PETG/ABS, it is required for flexible filament. A 4mm gap (or closer) should be fine for PLA/PETG/ABS or other hard filaments.\n\n\n\",3.9604314711224866,2.0769199823829045\n6914,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,DonaldEnte,3.618048892289167,5.125587993489693,0.0,4.022883302450398,4.620985695623129,4.592941926651472,\"Filament isn't going into the Bowden tube, instead it goes \"\"into the room\"\"\",\"The pictures explain my problem. I have already tried to reduce the retraction but that showed no effect. Thank you for your help. \n\nThe effect is a total stop of the print (no material is extruded).\n\n\nCreality CR 10\nCura 3.4.1\n\n\nI recently added this new feeder aluminium block because the 3D printed stock version was bad quality.\n\n\n\n\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"There are two parts to this problem. \n\nFirst, the extruder is meeting too much resistance in the print. There can be several causes, from the first layer being too low, a blocked nozzle, too low a print temperature, or printing too fast, so the viscosity of the filament just makes it too hard to pass through the nozzle. Usually, several of these will be in play together.\n\nSecond, the extruder design allows the filament to bend as it leaves the drive gears. Typically, this problem is seen most with flexible filament because that will obviously collapse more easily under compression for a given unsupported length.\n\nThe trigger is the first group, the second part determines the resiliance of your setup to this problem. Once the break point is reached, there is no recovery. You can retract the filament, but trying to resume the print will just set the extruder back to the same absolute position.\n\nFirst, check that you can extrude OK in free space, without any drop in temperature. Also check your extrusion steps calibration - if you're extruding 110% of what the print is expecting, the extrusion back pressure can build up to a point of failure. Check the first layer, check the calibration.\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n7992,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,DonaldEnte,2.1782824847157594,4.9514044712452465,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.306096197889172,Filament extrusion always stops at some point during print,\"I own a Creality CR-10 (using Ultimaker Cura for slicing) and I am experiencing terrible printing problems.\n\nMy problem: I am not able to print anything that takes several hours to print. For parts printed in 30 minutes or so, my printer usually works.\n\nThe prints end up like this (unfinished and with a lot of stringing)\n\n\n\nThis below is actually the best result I got so far.. (important note: there is no under extrusion during the print, it suddenly stops out of nowhere..)\n\n(Although I have to use terrible retraction settings and need a lot of post processing because of all the stringing - you might have an answer for that too.. I just couldnt get the 3d printer to print parts properly with good retraction settings.)\n\nThe problem is that at some point of the print, no more (PLA) material is extruded and the printer moves without actually printing anything. The first couple of layers usually work (you can see that in the images) but after wasting almost 600 grams of PLA, I am not able to find a solution myself.\n\n.\n\nI have some suspicions:\n\nCould the problem be the angle, the PLA is inserted into the feeder? (so that it is almost a 90 degree bend)? The filament comes from a spool in the right hand side. But I dont think that this would cause such a problem..\n\n\n\nIs it a software problem? Here are all my cura settings (I even reduced the printing speed to 30mm/s at 205°C - still didnt work..) :-(\n\n\n\n\n\nCould the length of the bowden tube and it tangling up be a problem? (as you can see in the image below)\n\n\nAnd annother important thing: The feeder always grinds into the filament (even at those low retraction settings) and it is always very hard to pull the filament out of the bowden after a failed print. Sometimes its almost impossible and i have to use heavy tools for it.. that should be the probelem\n\n\nI already did some atomic pulls, replaced the nozzle and switched the bowden tube.\n\nI have a dream: My printer printing a part without any stringing and actually finishing the print. Please help me to achieve this dream..\n\nThank you for your help in advance. :)\n\n(and the filament I used, sorry for the bad quality of the pic)\n\n\",0scar,\"Stringing?\n\nThe stringing is explained by your relatively low retraction settings, 1.5 mm is not much for a Bowden setup. As do too high printing temperatures.\n\nStopping mid printing?\n\nWhat you are experiencing is called clogging, the extruder cannot push the filament through the hotend and cause the grinding you report. Clogging mid printing is usually caused by insufficient cooling (for the temperature you print at) of the cold end (causing heat creep; slowly increasing temperature of the heat break), especially all-metal hotend assemblies are notoriously known for this problem. \n\nYour Bowden tube does make a lot of kinks, maybe you can improve the path of the Bowden tube. Also if you are concerned about the sharp filament intake angle, you could print a filament guide:\n\n\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n7992,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,DonaldEnte,2.1782824847157594,4.9514044712452465,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.306096197889172,Filament extrusion always stops at some point during print,\"I own a Creality CR-10 (using Ultimaker Cura for slicing) and I am experiencing terrible printing problems.\n\nMy problem: I am not able to print anything that takes several hours to print. For parts printed in 30 minutes or so, my printer usually works.\n\nThe prints end up like this (unfinished and with a lot of stringing)\n\n\n\nThis below is actually the best result I got so far.. (important note: there is no under extrusion during the print, it suddenly stops out of nowhere..)\n\n(Although I have to use terrible retraction settings and need a lot of post processing because of all the stringing - you might have an answer for that too.. I just couldnt get the 3d printer to print parts properly with good retraction settings.)\n\nThe problem is that at some point of the print, no more (PLA) material is extruded and the printer moves without actually printing anything. The first couple of layers usually work (you can see that in the images) but after wasting almost 600 grams of PLA, I am not able to find a solution myself.\n\n.\n\nI have some suspicions:\n\nCould the problem be the angle, the PLA is inserted into the feeder? (so that it is almost a 90 degree bend)? The filament comes from a spool in the right hand side. But I dont think that this would cause such a problem..\n\n\n\nIs it a software problem? Here are all my cura settings (I even reduced the printing speed to 30mm/s at 205°C - still didnt work..) :-(\n\n\n\n\n\nCould the length of the bowden tube and it tangling up be a problem? (as you can see in the image below)\n\n\nAnd annother important thing: The feeder always grinds into the filament (even at those low retraction settings) and it is always very hard to pull the filament out of the bowden after a failed print. Sometimes its almost impossible and i have to use heavy tools for it.. that should be the probelem\n\n\nI already did some atomic pulls, replaced the nozzle and switched the bowden tube.\n\nI have a dream: My printer printing a part without any stringing and actually finishing the print. Please help me to achieve this dream..\n\nThank you for your help in advance. :)\n\n(and the filament I used, sorry for the bad quality of the pic)\n\n\",knah,\"I've had a similar issue once. It was caused by very slight misconfiguration in filament feed rate (my printer tried to push through too much filament). While it was technically overextruding, I didn't realize that until I measured my extrusion lengths. Overextrusion could also contribute to stringing.\n\nWhen you pull out the filament from your extruder after a print failure, does it have a thicker end? If so, it could be a sign of trying to push too much filament.\n\nOn the left is the filament I pulled from the extruder after a normal print - you can see it only gets thinner and has a long end. In the middle is a very pathological case - that shouldn't happen unless something is very wrong. On the right is how the filament was when I had my extruder feed rate misconfigured - you can see the dents from gear biting too hard into it, and a slight bulge.\n\n\nWhat I think happened in my case, is that filament gets melted in the hotend, some of it gets pushed through the nozzle, the excess wells up into the heatbreak, where it solidifies and bonds to walls, causing blockage and difficulties pulling it out.\n\nAs to how to fix it (if it's indeed the cause) - if you configured printer's firmware yourself, you may need to tweak steps/mm for the extruder.\nIt looks like your printer runs Marlin firmware, which allows you to configure steps/mm from your LCD. You could also use PC software such as Pronterface to connect to your printer and tweak steps/mm parameters (alongside with other things). Here's a guide for checking and adjusting extruder steps/mm value. Though thick marker lines are not the best for measurement.\nYou can also measure how much filament exits your bowden tube with calipers when you move it from printer LCD.\nIf you don't want to mess around with firmware and steps/mm settings, you can adjust flow rate in Cura, although in that case you'll have to experiment with it and waste even more filament. I'd advise you to check for other possible issues first.\n\nAs the other answer has said, this could be caused by temperature creep too, with similar symptoms - filament melting in the heatbreak.\n\nA long and bendy bowden tube could cause issues, but I'd expect underextrusion+grinding from that, whereas you don't see any underextrusion. Just to be sure, you could try pushing filament by hand (with other hand holding the lever on your extruder to release the filament) - it shouldn't take much force to move it all the way to extruder, and it shouldn't take much force to push it through the hotend either.\nYet another thing to check is whether your filament gets dented by the extruder gear during normal print. Just insert it until the hotend without holding the lever on extruder and pull it out - it should be as smooth and round as it was before insertion. If it has dents from the extruder gear, that could also be the source of your problems. In that case, you'll need to reduce tension on your extruder spring, or if it's non-adjustable, then get another spring or shorten the existing one.\n\nAs the last thing to check, does this happen with other filaments, especially single-color ones? Maybe this particular filament doesn't play nice with your hotend because of those black dot inclusions.\n\nSo, short list of things to check:\n\n\nCheck extruder steps/mm\nCheck force on pushing filament through bowden tube (by hand)\nCheck extruder gear tension\nTry another filament\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n8193,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,DonaldEnte,1.726248027126092,5.320363988103124,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Clogging due to heat creep: buy new cooler or new hotend?,\"Sadly, I am not able to \"\"repair\"\" my 3D printer. Every time, I want to print something that takes a bit longer to print, the extrusion stops at some point during the print (the first few layers are great), no under-extrusion whatsoever before that critical point.\n\nI already tried temperature variation (185-220 °C) with about 5 different brands of 1.75 mm PLA.\n\nI tried printing without any retraction, but failed (I also experimented with flow rate a lot and calculated the perfect percentage etc.)\n\nEverytime a print fails, it is a nightmare to remove the PLA filament from my Bowden tube (because it expanded near the nozzle and is stuck in the Bowden tube). I have to pull with so much force, that I already cut myself several times because I slipped off my pliers.\n\nAs I know for sure (I already wasted almost 1kg of PLA for my testing) the problem is heat creep = heat travelling from the heat block to the PLA above because the heat break or fan seem to be broken.\n\nSo my question is: \"\"Will it be enough to buy a new cooling fan (as the standard fan doesnt seem to be powerful enough)?\"\" \n\nI have to add that I already bought the original hotend long time ago and I tried printing with the \"\"fan of the first hotend\"\" and with the \"\"fan of the second hotend\"\" (the fan that blows air towards the cold end) so that might not be the problem.\n\nOr do I need a totally new hotend? (with heatbreak etc.)\n\nMy printer is a Creality CR 10, and I'm using Ultimaker Cura 3.6.\n\nOr is it enough to buy a new heating block + heat break? (I don't know if the cooling fan is the problem or the heat break).\n\",cmm,\"Cooling the hot-end heat sink may be the key. My first step would be to try ducting so the all the air from the fan flows through the fins of the heatsink. To keep it easy and be a quick experiment, use cardboard (or business cards) and tape. Check the controls to be sure the fan is running at full power. You should feel air passing theough the fins. You can not cool it too much.\n\nFor cleaning out pla from tubes, nozzles, and hot ends, I use a hot-air heat gun.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8193,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,DonaldEnte,1.726248027126092,5.320363988103124,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Clogging due to heat creep: buy new cooler or new hotend?,\"Sadly, I am not able to \"\"repair\"\" my 3D printer. Every time, I want to print something that takes a bit longer to print, the extrusion stops at some point during the print (the first few layers are great), no under-extrusion whatsoever before that critical point.\n\nI already tried temperature variation (185-220 °C) with about 5 different brands of 1.75 mm PLA.\n\nI tried printing without any retraction, but failed (I also experimented with flow rate a lot and calculated the perfect percentage etc.)\n\nEverytime a print fails, it is a nightmare to remove the PLA filament from my Bowden tube (because it expanded near the nozzle and is stuck in the Bowden tube). I have to pull with so much force, that I already cut myself several times because I slipped off my pliers.\n\nAs I know for sure (I already wasted almost 1kg of PLA for my testing) the problem is heat creep = heat travelling from the heat block to the PLA above because the heat break or fan seem to be broken.\n\nSo my question is: \"\"Will it be enough to buy a new cooling fan (as the standard fan doesnt seem to be powerful enough)?\"\" \n\nI have to add that I already bought the original hotend long time ago and I tried printing with the \"\"fan of the first hotend\"\" and with the \"\"fan of the second hotend\"\" (the fan that blows air towards the cold end) so that might not be the problem.\n\nOr do I need a totally new hotend? (with heatbreak etc.)\n\nMy printer is a Creality CR 10, and I'm using Ultimaker Cura 3.6.\n\nOr is it enough to buy a new heating block + heat break? (I don't know if the cooling fan is the problem or the heat break).\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"I resorted to google to find a candidate image which might be similar to your hotend.\n\n\nNow, it is safe to assume that a like-for-like replacement will not improve matters significantly. It is also a good assumption that the performance gap which you need to close is small. Presumably you know how much time you need to wait for the creep to manifest itself so are part way along to being able to perform some heat flow calculations.\n\nThe mass of the cold-end here is small, and there is maybe next to no additional metal on the cold side (compared with direct drive, where the servo acts as thermal damping).\n\nYou ought to be able to perform static testing - a thermocouple thermometer should be cheaper than running a spool of filament, and all you are interested in is the temperature rise at the hot side of the cold end after 'time to fail'. If you can achieve a halfing of this rise, you're on the way to achieving a 4x longer print run (or better). If you test with zero filament flow, you should see a worst-case result since there is no cold material flow into the cold end.\n\nThe one obvious improvement to make with the specimen above which I found on Amazon would be to duct the fan, so airflow is forced past the fins. A side benefit will be reduced cooling of the hotend.\n\nA further improvement, if there are any metal parts in the carriage, would be to remove the anodizing and use thermal transfer grease to increase the effective heatsink size (assuming that the fan also provides airflow over this metalwork.\n\nYou might find a larger cold end heatsink (more air surface area over the fins), that might be a worthwhile improvement - but it depends on the mechanical constraints of your printer.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n8510,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,DonaldEnte,1.0891412423578797,3.367126134927355,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Exhaust air solution,\"Can you think of a preferably cheap solution for me? I need a machine that pumps air out of my 3d printing enclosure, about 4 meters of pipe length. (From enclosure to window) What kind of pump or fan can pump air out of the enclosure (4m pipe length) at the lowest possible price and low volume?\n\nI need it for cooling purposes and for better general air quality in my room after opening the printer enclosure.\n\nIt doesn't need to be top notch equipment, just enough for my purposes.\n\",Trish,\"Air flows from places of higher pressure to those of less. \n\nMinimal setup\n\nI propose to look at a very simple setup which works for short lengths of pipe:\n\n\nChoose if you want a radial fan of a direct passing fan. get one, measure the intake and the outlet side holes\ncut a fan inlet-sized hole directly into the back of the enclosure.\nmount your fan onto it, most likely with some kind of foam to keep the airstream in.\nget a flexible air vent hose (I have seen ~$10/10€ for a 100mm one) and measure the inner diameter.\nprint an adapter from the fan outlet to the vent hose.\nmount the adapter, then the hose, use clamps to secure it.\nlead the air vent hose to the window and out or into a wall through.\n\n\nEven if the airstream doesn't seem to be very fast, you could test it with smoke to see that it will blow out the air on the other end of the hose. The large diameter lets quite some air out with just a \"\"gentle\"\" airstream. This is not a very efficient system though, as we build up a pressure in the pipe the fan wors against.\n\nefficiency gains\n\nTo gain efficiency, we should move the fan away from the machine and closer to the outlet. That means, we need to increase the fan power. If you can get your hand on, for example, an in-pipe motor, that would be a solution, but usually an expensive one. If you are good with electrics, you could use a blower from an electric cloths-drier. You might get a clothes-drier to strip the motor from really cheap, for example from a renovation, recycling facility or Craigslist, e-bay or any other auction or classifieds-page.\n\nOr you build your own from an electric motor (you could use your machine's power supply here), a housing made from wood and an impeller, which you can get as a \"\"Dryer Blower Wheel\"\" spare part for under $50. If you connect the power for its motor through a regulatable resistor, you could even control its spinning speed.\n\nTo cope with the suction, we need to use aluminium flex pipe on the arm between machine and exhaust.\n\ngo big\n\nIf you want to go industrial like if you want to run a laser cutter, you will need to go industrial in the vent size too. You use pretty much the same diameter aluminium flex pipe and a much stronger motor than the drier one, and you don't mount the motor directly to the machine back but somewhere downstream as it's rather loud. For what to look for in that case, I found a very good article here. Note though, that this is not a small setup, but you could possibly vent a whole batch of printers through one pump, using some airstream cutoffs to control which ones get currently evacuated.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n8510,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,DonaldEnte,1.0891412423578797,3.367126134927355,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Exhaust air solution,\"Can you think of a preferably cheap solution for me? I need a machine that pumps air out of my 3d printing enclosure, about 4 meters of pipe length. (From enclosure to window) What kind of pump or fan can pump air out of the enclosure (4m pipe length) at the lowest possible price and low volume?\n\nI need it for cooling purposes and for better general air quality in my room after opening the printer enclosure.\n\nIt doesn't need to be top notch equipment, just enough for my purposes.\n\",user77232,\"Well you can get a centrifugal fan and put it at either end of the pipe. You didn't specify a pipe diameter so I'll assume it's 1 inch. Just hook the pipe up to the exhaust. You will have to design and print an adapter.\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6750,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,shachin_vs,2.528907649931287,3.776022737890987,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Extrusion is not continuous,\"Issue: Printing is not continuous.\n\nObservation: While printing, the upper layer of the nozzle is leaking. And also the printing is not continuous, the layers are not formed properly.\n\nPractices: Alternate nozzle has been fastened, Bed leveling has been checked, Even used the other softwares to print. Reset-failsafe is also done.\n\nConclusion: Feeding of filament from the extruder motor is continuous but the printing is not smooth.\n\nAttachment: The pictures and videos (working) are attached.\n\n\n\nWhich should be a print of the following image of the model:\n\n\n\nCertainly I have made certain observations along with your suggested queries. I have listed them please comment.\n\n\nThe brand which I'm using is the TEVO TORNADO. \nThe material is PLA. \nThe temperatures are 60-65C (BED) and 210-215C (EXT) \nThe software I used is REPETIER. \nThe extruder stepper motor works fine (No clicks) (The teeths are clean) \nThis is the nozzle leak \n\n\n\",cmm,\"and welcome to 3D Printing Stack Exchange.\n\nFrom the picture and the video, it appears that you have significant under extrusion. It is impossible to determine from this information what is causing this. It could be temperature, such as a nozzle that is too cold, slicing configuration being wrong, such as by slicing for 3mm filament but using 1.75mm filament, electronics, such as the extruder stepper not generating enough torque, or a jam where the filament simply can't be pressed into the hot zone.\n\nI listened to your video but didn't hear anything that might help straighten this out. But, what I didn't hear was a \"\"clicking\"\" extruder. The extruder \"\"clicks\"\" if it is trying really hard to push the filament but it is not able to come out of the nozzle. It might be worth checking the toothed roller that drives the filament to be sure the teeth are clean. If the teeth are full, the drive roller can't get a grip on the filament to push it forward.\n\nAlso, I am concerned that plastic is may be coming out somewhere other than the top of the nozzle. That shouldn't happen. Could you attach a photo of plastic coming out of the wrong place?\n\n--- Added after comments, and this photo os the nozzle leak was attached.\n\n3D printing needs a long chain of conditions to be right. Any problem in that chain can cause unacceptable results. When trying to get good results, it is always best to fix any problem you find, and the plastic leak is a big problem. Other problems may exist, but this must be fixed for a print to succeed. \n\nThe plastic leak is a big problem for a few reasons:\n\n\nIt allows plastic to leave the melt zone other than through the nozzle. Since 3D printing depends on controlling the plastic leaving the nozzle for the print, this extra escape path is plastic which should have been neatly deposited on your print. The control system has no way to know that the plastic it fed through the extruder is not on the print, so you get under extrusion.\nThere is an extra chamber inside the hot end which must be melted. In the ideal case, the filament directly enters the nozzle, in which it melts. Pressure from the cold filament at one end pushes the molten filament toward and through the nozzle. The filament doesn't not need to change directions or flow particularly easily because it always moves linearly through the hot end. It necks-down to the output hole size, but that is assisted by an entry cone to the nozzle aperature.\nIn a working hot end, there is not hot filament inside the hot end that is not extruded. There are no eddy currents. There are no places where filament can rest. PLA is prone to degradation when kept at printing temperatures. This isn't a problem in an ideal hot end because no filament sits idle. Where there is an opening, or any extra gap, even if filament weren't leaking past the threads, there would be a pool of filament that was not in the extrusion path which would be hot for tool long, and would degrade into a hard, burned mess.\n\n\nDisassembling the hot end can be tricky. The cold plastic is a great glue which has filled and sealed the threads. Do not use the internal heater to heat it. The wires will get in the way when you are taking it apart. There can (will) be broken connections, and possibly uncontrolled heating. Use a hot air gun or hair dryer to soften the plastic. \n\nIf you can not remove the heater and thermistor before taking it apart, find where they are connected to the electronics and disconnect them there. Do not leave the wires connected. The heater and thermistor are fragile, and too much bending or force on the wires will destroy them. You might purchase spares because you are likely to damage one or both. \n\nPLA softens at a relatively low temperature. When you have a plastic encased mess, disconnected from the rest of the printer, you can soften the plastic either with hot air or hot water. \n\nA \"\"relatively low tenperature\"\" can still give you serious burns. Use gloves, pliers, toothpicks, and any other tools you need.\n\nWhen you reassemble the hot end, the nozzle should screw tightly against the upper tube that delivers the plastic. \n\nInspect the top of the nozzle and the bottom of the tube, and be sure they are flat, smooth, and are cut at a 90 degree angle to their axis. They must fit together tightly, leaving no gap.\n\nOne assembly order is recommended by E3D. I mention them because they deserve credit, although I am embellishing with details they are unaware of, have not suggested, and are not responsible for.\n\n\nStart with all parts removed from the heater block (the rectangle of aluminum).\nScrew the nozzle into the heater block, and then back it off 1/4 to 1/2 a turn.\nScrew the top tube into the heater block until it is tight against the nozzle.\nAssemble eerything else -- heater, thermister, wiring, attach to extruder, ...\nWith no plastic, heat the hot end from the control panel to be hotter than the hottest you will need when printing, maybe 250C if you are only printing PLA and ABS, and assure that it is heating normally.\nWITH THE HOT END HOT, tighten the nozzle with a wrench so that it is tight against the upper tube.\n\n\nOf the three objects in the hot end, the aluminum heater block has the highest coefficient of thermal expansion. It is higher than both the steel upper tube and the brass nozzle. The tendency as the hot end heats is to open a gap between the nozzle and the tube. By making them tight at the highest temperature, they will also be tight at lower temperatures.\n\nWhen the leak is fixed, you may be done, or there may be other problems to solve.\n\nWelcome to 3D Printing!\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6750,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,shachin_vs,2.528907649931287,3.776022737890987,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Extrusion is not continuous,\"Issue: Printing is not continuous.\n\nObservation: While printing, the upper layer of the nozzle is leaking. And also the printing is not continuous, the layers are not formed properly.\n\nPractices: Alternate nozzle has been fastened, Bed leveling has been checked, Even used the other softwares to print. Reset-failsafe is also done.\n\nConclusion: Feeding of filament from the extruder motor is continuous but the printing is not smooth.\n\nAttachment: The pictures and videos (working) are attached.\n\n\n\nWhich should be a print of the following image of the model:\n\n\n\nCertainly I have made certain observations along with your suggested queries. I have listed them please comment.\n\n\nThe brand which I'm using is the TEVO TORNADO. \nThe material is PLA. \nThe temperatures are 60-65C (BED) and 210-215C (EXT) \nThe software I used is REPETIER. \nThe extruder stepper motor works fine (No clicks) (The teeths are clean) \nThis is the nozzle leak \n\n\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"From your linked photo, it appears that the feeder tube is not well-seated in the hotend (heater block). That's why the leak -- the tube should be in firm contact with the top of the nozzle.\nI'm not sure how to adjust that with your system, but as a minimum try screwing the feeder tube down farther into the hotend and, if possible, screw the nozzle deeper in as well.\nBy comparison, my Prusa clone has space for a seating nut on the feeder tube, and by seating that tightly onto the hotend, I can avoid that sort of leak. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6755,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,MiCROLABS,1.726248027126092,3.828896735094969,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,1.7550683581421125,How to print text upside down for minimal support when printing,\"\n\nHey!\n\nPretty new to all this. Wondering how you would approach this problem to have an extruded element on top of a flat surface. I want to avoid lots of support material (actually no support at all for a cleaner print and no work with sanding etc.) I intend to print this inverted in Z (i.e. text down) for the main structure.\n\nMy only idea would be to print it separately and then glue it on. But maybe there is another solution that comes to your mind?\n\nCheers!\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"Let's assume a general case where the base object has to be printed \"\"face down\"\" for reasons of overhang, strength, or anything. \n\nMy recommendation, and it's largely one of personal style, is to modify the face surface to have a couple mounting holes in it. Then, in whatever CAD or Mesh software you're using, add mating pegs to the backside of the lettering. (This is easier if you can include a thin \"\"base layer\"\" or connectors so the text is a single object). Then print the base object \"\"face down,\"\" print the text \"\"face up\"\", add glue and insert pins into holes. \n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n6755,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,MiCROLABS,1.726248027126092,3.828896735094969,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,1.7550683581421125,How to print text upside down for minimal support when printing,\"\n\nHey!\n\nPretty new to all this. Wondering how you would approach this problem to have an extruded element on top of a flat surface. I want to avoid lots of support material (actually no support at all for a cleaner print and no work with sanding etc.) I intend to print this inverted in Z (i.e. text down) for the main structure.\n\nMy only idea would be to print it separately and then glue it on. But maybe there is another solution that comes to your mind?\n\nCheers!\n\",mbmcavoy,\"Supporting the text while printing should simply not be a problem, if printed in the orientation shown. The text, as per your description and shown in the illustration is extruded vertically and there is no overhang. No support should be needed at all.\n\nA few notes:\n\nThe bottom (dark grey) portion of your object does have a significant overhang, and may need some support depending on the specific shape. But support for that should not be near the text or affect it.\n\nText can be tricky to print with high quality if the width is not much bigger than your nozzle size. This is not specific to text, but rather feature size, slicer settings, and printer/filament capabilities. Experimentation is your friend - print it, and then address any quality problems that you find.\n\nIf you want the text to be a different color (as in your illustration), you might be in luck. There is a technique to pause the printer at desired layer height, swap out the filament, and resume printing. Your shape would lend itself to this technique. It's not too hard, but the specifics do depend on the software and printer you are using. There are quite a few good writeups on various 3D printing sites. If you want to ask about this, please ask another question, with this information.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6760,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Giordano Fearghas,2.8153892694839717,3.171906017490645,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Do all 3D printers allow the printing of flexible material?,\"Are there any specific type of FDM 3D printers that I should look for?\n\",cmm,\"and welcome to 3D Printing Stack Exchange.\n\nNo. Not all 3D printers can print flexible material.\n\nThe first place you will have trouble is in the extruder itself. Flexible filament will find any way to escape from the confines of the rollers and the guide tube. Any opening will allow the filament to buckle and find a new path. It is common to find that the filament has filled any gaps inside the extruder, and wrapped itself tightly around the drive roller.\n\n@0scar describes this in his answer. If the extruder does not have tight tolerances, with 1/4mm or less clearance between the drive roller on all sides, AND if there isn't a tube mated right up into the place where the filament is pressed between the drive roller and the idler, your extruder will fail to print Ninjaflex (a very flexible filament).\n\nOscar also mentions that Bowden feed doesn't work well. It is fundamentally the same buckling problem. There is always a gap around the filament inside the Bowden tube. A still filament will rub at some points, but a soft filament will compress and ripple, filling the entire lumen inside the tube, and greatly increasing the friction. Higher friction means more extruder pressure, so more buckling, more friction, and more failure.\n\nEven if you are lucky and don't experience the run-away friction problem, the flexible filament is more compressible. With a Bowden feed system, that compression must be preloaded at the beginning of each extrusion movement and relieved for each retraction. With direct drive, the filament also compresses, but the amount of filament is much less, so the compression is less, and the problems are less.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6760,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Giordano Fearghas,2.8153892694839717,3.171906017490645,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Do all 3D printers allow the printing of flexible material?,\"Are there any specific type of FDM 3D printers that I should look for?\n\",0scar,\"Not all printers are suitable to print flexible filament. E.g. 1.75 mm filament printers with a Bowden extruder/hotend combination will not work (you may have more luck using 2.85 mm filament, which is stiffer because of the increased diameter). For 1.75 mm filament you require a direct drive extruder, e.g. with the stepper mounted onto the hotend, even then some additional guide parts need to be printed to make it work. This also depends on the amount of flexibility of the filament, some are more flexible than others.\n\n\n\nE.g. Ultimaker 3D printers use 2.85 mm filament with a Bowden setup. They also sell a flexible filament that can be printed with these printers. Even for direct drive extruder printers like the Anet A8 (a cheap Chinese Prusa i3 clone) inserts exist (e.g. this or this one) to even better guide the filament to prevent it to buckle. \n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n6798,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Giordano Fearghas,2.1782824847157594,3.4776007666316793,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How do you calibrate a delta robot 3D printer?,\"I have a delta robot 3D printer, but I have no clue how to calibrate it. Any advice?\n\",Greenonline,\"This answer below is (partially) taken from my answer to Delta printer nozzle not moving square with a perfectly level bed (as if the bed is bent... but it isn't).\n\nWhilst the answer below is for a Kossel, assuming that you are using Marlin, then the process should be more or less the same.\n\n\n\nCalibration on any printer is difficult, but especially so on deltas, as there construction is more complex than a cartesian printer.\n\nHave you manually calibrated the printer (at both the center and the edges), such that you can just about get a sheet of paper between the print bed and the hotend nozzle, at z = 0? This last check ensures that the first printed layer of extruded filament is actually touching and \"\"presses on\"\" to the print bed. \n\nI seriously recommend that you watch this video #18:Calibration for a great explanation on the use of the paper. This video is for a Delta printer, a Kossel XL (although the Kossel Mini is also covered) and it clearly demonstrates the height that the zeroed print head should be at, and how to check using a sheet paper.\n\nIt is an hour long tutorial video, by Tom of BuildA3DPrinter.eu, and it shows you step-by-step how to calibrate the printer, and also how to deal with deformed beds (concave/convex). It uses:\n\n\nArduino IDE, and;\nPronterface\n\nand performs the calibration by adjusting, in the firmware:\nMANUAL_HOME_Z_POS, and;\nDELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET\n\n\n\n\nHere is a run down of the video's contents:\n\n\n0:00 Intro: The perfect first layer can be obtained, either with/without a probe (the printer is, arguably, better without probe) This tutorial is without the probe. \n0:55 Arduino software loaded with Marlin firmware source, looking at the file configuration.h and in particular, the line #define MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS\n2:30 - Ensure that the Pronterface USB port is disconnected as otherwise this will inhibit the Arduino IDE from connecting to the printer.\n3:20 - Initial test - Gap at the center of the bed\n\n\nConnect with Pronterface and use the following G-code commands\nG28 Home the printer head\nG1 Z10 Bring the head down...\nG1 Z5 a bit more...\nG1 Z4 a bit more...\nG1 Z3 a bit more...\nG1 Z2 a bit more...\nG1 Z1 and if the head hits bed then this is too close\nG1 Z2 raise the head again\nPaper thickness is 100 microns, place under the head\nG1 Z1.5 lower the head again, but no by so much as before\nSlide the paper between head and bed. The paper should move freely, but with some friction felt (you should be able to hear the head lightly rubbing against the paper)\n\n7:11 - Deduction of actual distance from print bed is 1.5 mm\n7:30 Return to firmware, and finely tune MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS in the Arduino IDE, disconnecting Pronterface again and upload.\n8:10 - Return to printer \n\n\nConnect with Pronterface, again, and use the following G-code commands\nG28 Home\nG1 Z5 F5000 Move head down rapidly\nG1 Z2\nG1 Z1\nG1 Z0 and the head comes to a rest at the correct distance from the bed\nRetest with the paper\n\n9:30 Final test\n\n\nG28 Home\nG1 Z0 Go from home straight down to the bottom\n\n10:02 - Further calibration\n\n\nG1 Z0.2 Raise head ever so slightly to give us some room\nIn Pronterface - Move the head horizontally\nG1 X50 - Moves head 50 mm to the right\nIn this case, if there is a larger gap between the head and the bed. This means that the bed is curved, and convex. If the gap was smaller, or the head hits the bed, then the bed is concave\n\n11:40 - Diagram of convex and concave print beds\n12:10 - Endstops\n\n\nG1 X-40 Moves the head to the left (of center) and the head is now further away from the bed than in the middle. \n\n13:20 - This means that the endstops are not correctly positioned. So, before tackling the concave/convex issue, it is first necessary to adjust the endstops, for each tower.\n13:37 - Tackling the tower positions individually\n\n\nG1 Z10 For safety reasons, leave a margin of 1 cm.\n\n14:08 - Calibrating the X tower (left tower). Note: The commands will depend on whether you have the Kossel or the Mini.\n\n\nPrinter moves in three axes: \n\n\nX: parallel (to the front);\nY: perpendicular (to the front);\nZ: height (not of interest at this point).\n\nX tower is not in either of these axes exactly\nG1 X-100 Moves the head to the side but 6 cm away from the X tower\nG1 X-100 Y-60 Positions the head next to the tower correctly\nG1 Z5 - Lower the head bit by bit\nG1 Z2\nG1 Z1\nG1 Z0 and the head is still 1 mm too high\n\n16:50 Endstop needs to be adjusted by 1 mm lower. There are two ways of doing this:\n\n\nLower the endstop itself - good for large changes\nAdjust the screw - good for smaller adjustments. Turn it anti-clockwise, and raise the screw by 1 mm.\n-G28 Home\nG1 Z10 Bring head down 1 cm above bed\nMove to the tower:\n\n\nXL: G1 X-100 Y-60\nMini G1 X-60 Y-35\n\nG1 Z2\nG1 Z1\nG1 Z0 Head hits the bed\nG1 Z0.2\nSo the end stop needs to be raised by 0.2 mm, by re-adjusting the screw (turning it clockwise).\nNow home it the head, G28\nAnd bring it down G1 X-100 Y-60 Z0 and it should not hit the glass and the paper should slide underneath\n\n21:00 Minor re-adjustment and fine tuning so that the paper slides without the need a too much force.\n21:50 Repeat for each tower\n22:15 Y Tower (right tower)\n-G28 Home\n\n\nG1 Z10 Bring head down 1 cm above bed\nMove to the tower:\n\n\nXL: G1 X100 Y-60\nMini G1 X60 Y-35 \n\nRepeat the above process - remember to test with G28 and G1 X100 Y-60 Z1 for safety, and then adjust the Z command\nThis is an iterative process\n\n28:04 - Z Tower (rear tower)\n-G28 Home\n\n\nG1 Z10 Bring head down 1 cm above bed\nMove to the tower:\n\n\nXL: G1 X0 Y120\nMini G1 X0 Y70 \n\nRepeat above process\n\n30:14 Re-check! each position (center, X, Y and Z towers)\n\n\nG28 Home\nG1 X0 Y120 Z0 Check Z tower & drop head (head should not touch the bed)\nG1 Z10 Raise head (see below)\nG1 X-100 Y-60 Move to X tower\nG1 Z0 Drop head (head should not touch the bed)\nG1 Z10 Raise head (see below)\nG1 X100 Y-60 Move to Y tower\nG1 Z0 Drop head (head should not touch the bed)\nCalibration of the endstops is now complete\n\n31:30 Why the Z10?\n\n\nG1 Z10\nG1 X0 Y0\nThe first calibration was the center point, but now the endstops have changed and as the bed is either convex or concave, we therefore raised the head by 1 cm, using the Z10, to avoid hitting the bed in the center. Now test it\nG1 Z2 Lower head slightly\nG1 Z1\nG1 Z0 If the bed is concave then the head is still too high! Conversely, if the bed is convex the the head will hit the bed.\n\n32:40 Adjusting the DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET in configuration.h - alter the physical parameter of the printer:\n\n\nConvex: Increasing DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET lowers the hotend in the center\nConcave: Decreasing DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET raises the hotend in the center\nAdjust the setting in the Arduino IDE and recompile and upload (ensure that Pronterface is disconnected)\n\n35:07 Testing the new DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET setting - again in Pronterface:\n\n\nG28 - As the firmware has changed, we must re-home.\nG1 X0 Y0 Z0\nYou will notice the the center point has not changed! It is the same. However if you go to the tower positions you will see that the (previously) perfect gap has changed. This is because by changing the DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET the center stays in the same place but the edges change instead. So, for the convex bed, we have virtually bent the surface, without moving the center point down, and moved the rim up (or, for a concave bed, down - depending upon the direction of the adjustment), thereby flattening the bed.\n\n37:10 Demonstration of adjustment\n37:51 Adjusting the height\n\n\nReturn to the firmware and change, again, the #define MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS line that we changed at the beginning, adjusting it by the amount that the head is from the center point. \nDisconnect Pronterface and upload the new adjusted firmware. \nThen reconnect Pronterface, and Home (G28) and drop to zero (G1 Z0). \nThe head may still a little too high. \nThen move to the tower, and the head may be too close to the bed, without any gap. This means that the bed is still convex and further adjustment is required of the DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET and then, obviously, the MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS. \nAgain, this is a bit of an iterative process. Don't forget to home after any firmware updates.\nFinally once the bed is flat (i.e. it has been virtually flattened in the software) and the gap between the head and the bed is the same at the center and the towers, then adjust MANUAL_HOME_Z_POS (an adjustment of 0.05 or less may be required) to get the paper test just perfect.\n\n44:35 Check each tower (screw adjustment, of the endstops, may be required). As the bed has been flattened, mechanical sub 0.1 mm adjustments may be required. Note that the firmware does not need to be re-uploaded, when making mechanical changes - although the head will always need to be re-homed (G28) after each change.\nThe head should now be at the correct height.\n47:14 - Extruder Calibration\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6764,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Yiğit Eren,2.1782824847157594,2.8245194970758165,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Custom 3D printer printing dimensions has changed because of a .gcode file,\"A couple weeks before, I bought a custom 3D printer that has an Ultimaker 2 motherboard in it. However, the dimensions of the printer is not same with Ultimaker 2 (X and Y same, a bit smaller on Z). The printer had tinkerfirmware installed in it. Today, I tried to print a premade .gcode file (Which was for another 3D printer I guess) and after pressing print, The machine told me the file will overwrite machine settings, and I pressed yes for it. After that, the dimensions of my 3D printer has changed in it's firmware. The bed is raising more than it should while starting calibrating, and not setting it's position precisely. (To make the 1mm gap, I had to move the bed down 4-5mm away from where it should be.) Now the question is, what can I do to fix this problem ? I also tried reinstalling original firmware which didn't really worked. (All the parts are orginal except the frame, which is a bit more smaller on height) How should I measure the height of printing area?\n\",tjb1,\"Your printer is an Ultimaker clone or something else? All of the original firmwares located on TinkerGnome's Github are configured for Ultimaker printers so if you are using them on something different you will need to configure it before using it. The easiest option would be editing this print file that changed your settings to your desired settings and then reloading it.\n\nHow to find your actual Z? Well that's a bit difficult without more information. I'm guessing from your description that your printer homes at Z max? If it's homing at Z max you need to home the machine, jog the Z axis to where you want 0 to be (usually using a piece of paper between the nozzle and bed), then record the Z axis position and enter that as your travel limit in the firmware. If your printer homes at Z min this could be as simple as changing the homing offset.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6764,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Yiğit Eren,2.1782824847157594,2.8245194970758165,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Custom 3D printer printing dimensions has changed because of a .gcode file,\"A couple weeks before, I bought a custom 3D printer that has an Ultimaker 2 motherboard in it. However, the dimensions of the printer is not same with Ultimaker 2 (X and Y same, a bit smaller on Z). The printer had tinkerfirmware installed in it. Today, I tried to print a premade .gcode file (Which was for another 3D printer I guess) and after pressing print, The machine told me the file will overwrite machine settings, and I pressed yes for it. After that, the dimensions of my 3D printer has changed in it's firmware. The bed is raising more than it should while starting calibrating, and not setting it's position precisely. (To make the 1mm gap, I had to move the bed down 4-5mm away from where it should be.) Now the question is, what can I do to fix this problem ? I also tried reinstalling original firmware which didn't really worked. (All the parts are orginal except the frame, which is a bit more smaller on height) How should I measure the height of printing area?\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"Firmware is stored in EEPROM, and may contain some default values, but does not affect the calibration values which are stored in EEPROM.\n\nYou should be able to reset the calibration to 'factory defaults', this actually means to take the defaults in the firmware and store them in EEPROM.\n\nUse M502 to load firmware defaults into the current session.\nUse M500 to write the settings from the current session into EEPROM.\n\nIt is unusual for a design in gcode to include modifications to the settings, but maybe it was done to change acceleration or something similar.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6793,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kisor,-2.1782824847157594,2.835469776828434,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Can 3d-printing be used to print drone frames which carry around 4 kilograms?,\"What about the strength parameters?\nWhere can I give CAD models to print them and receive them?\nPlease guide me.\n\",0scar,\"Yes, no problem! But this does not depend on the production process, it depends on the design. \n\nNot only the production process (adhesion in Z direction is usually weaker than X or Y) should be taken into account, but also the choice of material. Even carbon fibre doped filaments (nylon or PLA) exist (harder to print however, due to excessive wear of the nozzle by the carbon fibres). \n\nYou can also consider using carbon fiber tubes, and only print the connectors/mounts to connect the tubes to the engine mounts and main body mount.\n\n\n\nBasically, your question is not specific enough and boils down to a \"\"How do I design a drone frame\"\" or \"\"What are the main design issues for designing a drone frame\"\", which should be asked in an other forum. Once you have a design you could change your question and ask for specifics regarding printing the parts using FDM (e.g. orientation, positioning, materials, etc.).\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n6794,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,jb7852,3.0576060275493275,5.088649337992308,0.0,5.199501240805782,3.320478682445624,2.453507803626381,Electric shock from ender 3 printer PSU,\"I had recently purchased an ender 3 and after setting it up and plugging it in, I received an electrical shock from the power supply. I live in the UK and so I was provided an eu to uk adapter which I used and I set the voltage to 230V— Does anyone know why I was shocked and if there is any solution? Was it because EU to UK isn’t grounded (or am I wrong)?\n\nWould an older 10 amp monitor power cable work better as it’s grounded? \n\",user12843,\"Check the input cable used, I had similar experience when using cable they provided, then I found out that the plug had swapped L and N wires inside, measuring mains voltage between neutral and ground. Swapped cable for known good and the issue was gone.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6794,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,jb7852,3.0576060275493275,5.088649337992308,0.0,5.199501240805782,3.320478682445624,2.453507803626381,Electric shock from ender 3 printer PSU,\"I had recently purchased an ender 3 and after setting it up and plugging it in, I received an electrical shock from the power supply. I live in the UK and so I was provided an eu to uk adapter which I used and I set the voltage to 230V— Does anyone know why I was shocked and if there is any solution? Was it because EU to UK isn’t grounded (or am I wrong)?\n\nWould an older 10 amp monitor power cable work better as it’s grounded? \n\",TJ Robison,\"Yes. The shock from the lack of grounding. Most cheap SMPS (switched mode power supplies) are grounded to the metal casing which, in turn, is connect to the ground terminal where the AC plug is wired.\n\ntl;dr, take the plastic box on the end off an wire in a UK plug that DOES ground the power supply.\n\",0.0,0.0\n6869,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,jb7852,2.1782824847157594,6.3376560592826845,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Ender 3 Calibration Cube Fail + Can't Print Circles,\"After noticing that my ender 3 couldn't print a 'perfect' circle I decided to use a calibration cube to see if that could be the issue. These were my results:\n\n\n\nI did have some successful prints before noticing these problems but it would be great if anyone could help/find a solution.\n\nI think it may be because of the belts tension as I had accidentally over stretched it by putting it over the wheels instead of under: is it worth getting a new belt then?\n\nI use 20% infill, with triangle pattern in cura, using the standard 0.4mm nozzle.\n\nEdit\n\nAfter doing a different testprint and measuring, it revealed that both had an accurate 20mm Y and Z, but only an 18.5mm X. Might I have destroyed my belt when I mounted it overstrained?\n\nEdit2:\n\nAfter purchasing a new X belt, the calibration cube was much closer at 19 x 20 x 20. But still not at a good enough tolerance for my liking. Additionally, when printing a cylinder, two relatively flat edges were printed with it either side (perpendicular to the x-axis).\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"First, check that the calibration part you have is actually a cube. Maybe you downloaded a trick 'calibration cube' model. Cura will show he overall dimensions of any model which it is slicing.\n\nIgnore any print quality issues first off. A hollow calibration cube is mainly used to check the X/Y/Z motion and so long as you print at a sensible (slow) speed), the other parameters shouldn't have much effect (so long as the first layer is OK, and you get within 30% of the right extrusion).\n\nIf the calibration cube is within +/- 0.5mm on each side, it's probably good. Under/over extrusion, caliper technique, etc, can explain this sort of variation, and you might want to use a bigger test part like this star on my thingiverse account once you think you're close.\n\nThe 'steps per mm' setting is determined within the firmware, it is part of how your printer consumes G-code. For a delta printer, for example, there is some fancy maths to combine X/Y/Z into the motor movements. This means that you can't change steps/mm in Cura, you need to either change the firmware defaults and 'reset to factory settings', or modify the parameters in EEPROM by sending G-code.\n\nSeeing too small a calibration part (for a Cartesian printer) can easily be explained by problems in the printer's motion system:\n\n\nStepper missing steps due to jerk or acceleration too high\nStepper missing steps due to binding/friction in the bearings (Send M84 to idle the stepper motor, and move X by hand)\nTeeth missing on the drive belt (may show up on a diagonal 'bar' print)\nLoose drive pinion (maybe backlash on the flat on the spindle means the problem is greater on small parts) - see below\nFlex in the drive mechanism (e.g. belt mount to traveller is loose)\n\n\nAn annoying feature of a lot of these problems is that for any particular repetitive sequence of steps, you might see a very consistent result. Even thought to problem is something being badly adjusted, it gives the impression that the problem is calibration.\n\nThe drive wheel is held in place with a grub screw, see this diagram from the Anet-A8 assembly diagram.\n\n\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n6869,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,jb7852,2.1782824847157594,6.3376560592826845,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Ender 3 Calibration Cube Fail + Can't Print Circles,\"After noticing that my ender 3 couldn't print a 'perfect' circle I decided to use a calibration cube to see if that could be the issue. These were my results:\n\n\n\nI did have some successful prints before noticing these problems but it would be great if anyone could help/find a solution.\n\nI think it may be because of the belts tension as I had accidentally over stretched it by putting it over the wheels instead of under: is it worth getting a new belt then?\n\nI use 20% infill, with triangle pattern in cura, using the standard 0.4mm nozzle.\n\nEdit\n\nAfter doing a different testprint and measuring, it revealed that both had an accurate 20mm Y and Z, but only an 18.5mm X. Might I have destroyed my belt when I mounted it overstrained?\n\nEdit2:\n\nAfter purchasing a new X belt, the calibration cube was much closer at 19 x 20 x 20. But still not at a good enough tolerance for my liking. Additionally, when printing a cylinder, two relatively flat edges were printed with it either side (perpendicular to the x-axis).\n\",Trish,\"Your top layer looks like you need to add additional top layers and there are signs of a slight bit of over-extrusion in that top layer (red). On the other hand, it looks like the top layer is not sliced nicely resulting in gaps and holes (yellow), which might be a fault of the test print.\n\n\n\nThe X on the file you used is not centered, resulting in the off look in the print.\n\nI suggest you try a different calibration print before starting to tinker with the hardware, for example this.\n\nI suggest to use concentric only for the top layers and instead rely on a simple Zig-Zag pattern for the intermediate layers, as this usually generates a better connection to straight walls.\n\nEDIT1:\n\nAfter considering the miss-dimension in X only, you might want to look to calibrate your X steps.\n\nThe stretching of the belt might be an issue, but you might get away easy if you just check belt tension and manage to get it right again.\n\nAs I have an ender-3 myself, I know you might need to flash fresh firmware to get the ability to change the steps/mm.\n\nEDIT2:\n\nThe 19x20x20mm cube sounds like the new belt did fix a lot of the dimensioning problem, but the steps/mm might be slightly off - or we have to trace down SOME mechanical error in the movement path. As a 140mm long test print also had a 1mm offset, a steps/mm error should be out.\n\nAfter examining the machine with jb in chat, the bearing on the X-belt seemed to stick a tiny bit on one side.\n\n\n\nTurning the large bolt of the assembly in an attempt to disassemble it without a wrench to hold the self-securing nut on the far side seemed enough to lessen the pressure on the core of the bearing, allowing it to spin freely. In addition, the belt was a little loose.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6803,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,MrPuffyNZ,3.267423727073639,4.7430773424157335,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Extruder feedrate when loading and unloading filament,\"I have an MKS Base 1.4 board with a TFT28 touch screen and a Titan Aero setup.\n\nWhen I use the load filament command from the touch screen the motor turns at a crazy speed to load filament, whereas if I plug in my laptop and use Repetier host and send a load command it turns at a normal speed.\n\nIs there a section in the Marlin firmware that allows me to set the actual extruding speed during load and unload?\n\",0scar,\"Loading and unloading filament through the LCD options is taking care of by G-code command M600. The options used when executing the M600 command define where the head goes and how much filament is extruded of which extruder. Apparently, there is a difference in calling the M600 command via the LCD menu or (un)loading filament through the Repetier application. \n\nThe Firmware-based and LCD-controlled retract options are defined in Marlin Firmware file Configuration_adv.cfg (Advanced Pause). The settings for Repetier are probably differently defined than in the advanced configuration file; you should look them up in Repetier. It could well be that separate G-codes (or scripts) are used for this. E.g. G10 is used to retract filament as set by M207 (both length and feed rate!). G-code G11 does the opposite, it unretracts the filament as specified by M208.\n\nTo answer your question, yes, you need to alter the values of the constants in Configuration_adv.h for changing the speed when using the LCD to change the filament:\n\n// (mm/s) Unload filament feedrate. This can be pretty fast.\n#define FILAMENT_CHANGE_UNLOAD_FEEDRATE 10 \n// (mm/s) Load filament feedrate. This can be pretty fast.\n#define FILAMENT_CHANGE_FAST_LOAD_FEEDRATE 6 \n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6804,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,darthjosh13,2.8153892694839717,5.2702214801819505,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Extruder/nozzle keeps clogging up,\"I have an Adventurer 3 printer from Flashforge and every time I unclog it, it gets clogged up again. I’ve done about 6 or 7 prints with it. So after I unclog it, I load the filament and it comes out of the nozzle like it should but once I start a 3D print, it’s clogged again. The process of what I do to unclog it is by heating the nozzle up and then shove a small metal rod down the nozzle to push out the clogged filament. I do this several times until its all gone. I’ve read up on what I can do to prevent it but it doesn’t seem to work. What should I do? \n\",Serge Rabyking,\"I can see from the photo that filament melted and frozen thicker inside extruder. This is the problem and not the clogged extruder. This thick part produce a lot of friction and actually diameter grow until the print finally will stuck. Basically I had the same problem and I could guess that you are also using Bowden setup. The length of this built thicker part is actually corresponded to your retraction length setting in your slicer (the default value in Cura is unreasonable big like several centimetres). I solved the same problem by decreasing retraction settings to about 2mm-3mm. Just try it and I am sure you will not have this problem again.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6804,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,darthjosh13,2.8153892694839717,5.2702214801819505,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Extruder/nozzle keeps clogging up,\"I have an Adventurer 3 printer from Flashforge and every time I unclog it, it gets clogged up again. I’ve done about 6 or 7 prints with it. So after I unclog it, I load the filament and it comes out of the nozzle like it should but once I start a 3D print, it’s clogged again. The process of what I do to unclog it is by heating the nozzle up and then shove a small metal rod down the nozzle to push out the clogged filament. I do this several times until its all gone. I’ve read up on what I can do to prevent it but it doesn’t seem to work. What should I do? \n\",Mel Dewey,\"The Flashforge documentation is not much help, so unless there's a way for you to connect with their user community (because, maybe what you're dealing with is a known issue related to firmware or the machine itself) or Flashforge's customer service folks, you've got some fun detective work ahead of you. Seriously--you will enjoy solving this!\n\nSo: It will help to teach yourself the ABC's of clog symptoms, so you can see what the cause(s) could and couldn't be, in your situation. This is not a bad starter guide, and there are lots of others. You say you've \"\"read up\"\" on preventive measures--that's great! When your original post says, \"\"but it doesn’t seem to work,\"\" please understand, though, that we who read don't yet know what \"\"it\"\" means, in this case. Clarity & details are you friends here. \n\",0.0,0.0\n6806,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,jox,2.1782824847157594,3.615707788172995,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Hot end considerations for 300+ °C and greater than 1 mm nozzle size for polycarbonate,\"I need help with finding what properties or designs I need to look for. I know that I will need these characteristics to work with the material of my choice: \n\n\nCan reach 300 °C or up\nCan handle nozzle size larger than 1 mm\nCan be used with polycarbonate filament\n\n\nI plan to use it in a custom RAMPS 1.4 3D printer running the Marlin firmware, in case this changes something. \n\",Greenonline,\"By interpreting your question as \"\"Can most hotends print polycarbonate at 300°C+?\"\", and taking into consideration the answers to Can cheap hotend parts sourced from China actually produce good prints?1, then it would seem to be safe to assume2 that most hotends can, given a few adjustments or considerations:\n\n\nUse of a PT1003 or thermocouple, en lieu of a thermistor\nUse of PTFE tubing\n\n\nTaken directly from E3D's V6 product info:\n\n\n The V6 can comfortably reach 285°C with the supplied thermistor. By swapping a thermistor for a thermocouple (may require additional electronics) or PT100 you can reach over 400°C. This not only allows you to print extremely high temperature materials like Polycarbonate and Nylons but also eliminates HotEnd meltdown failures associated with PEEK/PTFE designs. The PTFE filament guide inside the V6 HotEnd is never subjected to high temperatures, so there is no risk of damage through overheating.\n\n\n\n\nFootnotes\n\n1 The materials used by cheaper clones of the higher quality, more expensive, branded hotends are probably the same as those used in the branded hotends, and indeed are probably produced using the same pirated patterns/molds/casts, but with less care and quality involved. They can even be produced in the same factory, but are items that have failed the QA tests, and as such are not deemed to be brandable. \n\n2 Although, to paraphrase a quote from a movie: Assumptions can be considered to be the mother of all disasters.\n\n3 A Pt100 or Pt1000 is a Platinum RTD (Resistance Temperature Detector) with a resistance of 100 ohms at 0°C which changes with temperature. From this manufacturer's website:\n\n\n A Pt100 or Pt1000 is a Platinum RTD (Resistance Temperature Detector) with a resistance of 100 ohms at 0°C which changes with temperature. They are suitable for applications in the temperature range of -200°C to 600°C but are more commonly used in the range -50°C to +250°C. These temperature sensors are reliable and can offer a higher degree of accuracy.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6806,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,jox,2.1782824847157594,3.615707788172995,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Hot end considerations for 300+ °C and greater than 1 mm nozzle size for polycarbonate,\"I need help with finding what properties or designs I need to look for. I know that I will need these characteristics to work with the material of my choice: \n\n\nCan reach 300 °C or up\nCan handle nozzle size larger than 1 mm\nCan be used with polycarbonate filament\n\n\nI plan to use it in a custom RAMPS 1.4 3D printer running the Marlin firmware, in case this changes something. \n\",Sean Houlihane,\"Handling a 1mm nozzle implies a desire to reduce the overall print time (otherwise why use a large nozzle), so you will need to consider not only the maximum operating temperature but also the rate at which plastic can be melted. (See also this question and one on overheating to compensate)\n\nUsing 1.75mm filament is a good start, this has a better surface area to volume ratio, but you're likely to see issues with both the heater cartridge power (so a 40W heater is probably going to help), but also the size of the melt zone and the thermal mass of the heater block.\n\nAs you need to push a reasonably large amount of heat from the cartridge to the filament, it is important to minimise the thermal resistance - so using a steel nozzle would be a disadvantage here (but since polycarbonate is abrasive, you will need to consider wear resistance as part of your trade-offs). You can get longer nozzles and larger heat blocks designed to work better in high flow applications.\n\nAlso remember that your extruder needs to work 6 times faster to achieve the same linear speed compared to a 0.4mm nozzle (with at least as much pressure), so this also might need to be upgraded (or driven a little harder).\n\nIf you can however tolerate a somewhat slower print speed, you might not need to reach 300°C to print PC.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6815,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Yash Soni,3.0576060275493275,3.993215425283658,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Hotend heating failure too short before limit,\"I am trying to resolve this for months and have tried almost everything, I guess.\n\nI am using Marlin firmware on a custom extruder with a custom fabricated heating block in which heater and thermistor (Marlin Temp_Sensor 11) are set up perpendicular to each other. Whenever I try to heat it up to 200 degree Celsius, it falls short and fails at around 140 and that too with a very low pace (especially between 100 to 140).\n\nI have already tried PID tuning, ADC values calibration, etc. Also, I have tried varying the values of Watch_Temp_Sensor in Configuration_Adv.h. I don't know what's going wrong.\n\nCan extruder coldend fan have an effect on the heating of thermal block? I have tried heating the hotend without cooling the coldend, although it takes around 10-12 minutes yet it works perfectly fine then and it reaches to the desired temperature.\n\nThe power supply is working fine\n\nP.S. I am not using any kind of pre-built extruder like E3D etc.\n\nThis is the setup:\n\n\n\nThis is the thermistor setup:\n\n\n\nThis is a view of heater position:\n\n\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"There are many unknowns at this point, you need to work methodically through each stage. You probably also need some test equipment, at least a basic multimeter. Ideally a temperature probe too.\n\nFirst, check that your power supply can drive the hot-end directly. You already know how long it takes to reach 120°C, so be sure to not let it heat too far beyond this time. This will bypass all of the control logic, and risks overheating your hotend/burning out the heater - but it should be OK if you limit to a few minutes.\n\nCheck the temperature reading, and cross check with some PLA or other low melting point filament to see if you actually reach ~180°C. Check the voltage as close to the heating cartridge as you have a connection point. It should be at least 11V (with a 12V PSU). My guess is that you have a bad connection somewhere...\n\nIf you observe the hotend getting hot enough to melt plastic, check the thermistor readings. You should see a fairly constant rate of heating well past 200°C. However, I expect this will work fine.\n\nFinally, check the hotend mosfet drive and output as the hotend reaches the target temperature. It should be on, then switching on/off, then off as you pass the target.\n\nIf this all looks OK, repeat but with the board in-circuit and controlling the heater. It may be that the mosfet is damaged, or it is not being driven very well - but to progress past that point we need to see voltage readings at various points.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6815,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Yash Soni,3.0576060275493275,3.993215425283658,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Hotend heating failure too short before limit,\"I am trying to resolve this for months and have tried almost everything, I guess.\n\nI am using Marlin firmware on a custom extruder with a custom fabricated heating block in which heater and thermistor (Marlin Temp_Sensor 11) are set up perpendicular to each other. Whenever I try to heat it up to 200 degree Celsius, it falls short and fails at around 140 and that too with a very low pace (especially between 100 to 140).\n\nI have already tried PID tuning, ADC values calibration, etc. Also, I have tried varying the values of Watch_Temp_Sensor in Configuration_Adv.h. I don't know what's going wrong.\n\nCan extruder coldend fan have an effect on the heating of thermal block? I have tried heating the hotend without cooling the coldend, although it takes around 10-12 minutes yet it works perfectly fine then and it reaches to the desired temperature.\n\nThe power supply is working fine\n\nP.S. I am not using any kind of pre-built extruder like E3D etc.\n\nThis is the setup:\n\n\n\nThis is the thermistor setup:\n\n\n\nThis is a view of heater position:\n\n\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"Now that we can see the real problem, your heater cartridge doesn't have good thermal contact to the block, and the block does not have good contact to the nozzle.\n\nWhere is your heatbreak? You need to perform a basic analysis of the heat flow in your design. Anything that is expected to conduct needs to be clamped, and to have thermal paste. Any connection between hot and cold which is used for mechanical support needs to have minimal cross section, and maybe use materials with poor thermal conductivity.\n\nExample\n\nHere is a simplified diagram, with some assumed thermal resistances. Note that the geometry is not representative since your nozzle is actually within the throat, not between the heater and the throat as I've shown. \n\n \n\nTotal thermal resistance is 7.5 °C/W. Maximum heat in is 40W, so the heater is at 320°C, and the nozzle can reach 300°C.\n\nReplace the heater with a 20W element, and the nozzle drops to 170°C.\n\nKeep the heater at 20W, to achieve 220° at the nozzle, the throat needs to provide at least 4.5°C/W thermal resistance.\n\nAssuming you're using a 10 mm diameter aluminium bar as a heat break, it needs to be 7 cm long with a 20 W heater. If you use steel instead, the length can be reduced by a factor of about 3.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6818,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Engineer,3.767809650974757,3.70361087347315,0.0,5.199501240805782,3.320478682445624,2.923016721482374,Secure disposal of 3D prints,\"The company I work for is protective of IP and has security procedures for disposing of anything that could be stolen for industrial espionage. Paper gets shredded and sent to trusted recycling center, all old data storage media gets obliterated, but what do we do with 3D prints? For any functional prototype, I have 10 or more early versions and failed prints. Is there a good way to dispose of these so that they are unrecognizable? Given the volume of prints I need to dispose of, it should be safe, cheap, and able to handle large batches.\n\",amra,\"A plastic shredder machine it's better then a melting/burning solution. It is faster and it doesn't produce fumes. Imagine burning PET bottles. \n\nFor the shredder you need nothing but electricity for the motor. For plastic melting it would be much higher consumption. Additionally you could reuse shredded plastic for filament machine like Filastruder or Strooder.\n\n\n\nThere is a nice article about shredders on 3dhubs from 2015.\n\nThen it depends on your budget. Around 400$ you can build one. A nice tutorial on preciousplastic.com. For 1000$ you can find shredder machines on Alibaba.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n6818,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Engineer,3.767809650974757,3.70361087347315,0.0,5.199501240805782,3.320478682445624,2.923016721482374,Secure disposal of 3D prints,\"The company I work for is protective of IP and has security procedures for disposing of anything that could be stolen for industrial espionage. Paper gets shredded and sent to trusted recycling center, all old data storage media gets obliterated, but what do we do with 3D prints? For any functional prototype, I have 10 or more early versions and failed prints. Is there a good way to dispose of these so that they are unrecognizable? Given the volume of prints I need to dispose of, it should be safe, cheap, and able to handle large batches.\n\",user77232,\"My 2 cents. If you have a CNC machine, you could \"\"mill\"\" them down. other than that, garden shredder/mulcher might suffice. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6829,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,smajli,3.0576060275493275,3.841500735601597,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Leapfrog Creatr HS stops mid print (extruders not clogged),\"I have tried to print a 3D model with Creatr HS from Leapfrog. This print failed twice. The 3D model is the same, .gcode the same. Surprisingly it failed at different stage. Please look at the pictures. You can see the place where extruder was when print stopped. \n\n \n\nI checked the filament and extruders, it is NOT a problem here. Extruders are not clogged, filament is not tangled nor blocked. Stepper motors stopped working, anyway the display shows that print progresses. \n\nI have created a ticket for this issue on Leapfrog support page, but had an answer that this printer is no longer supported.\n Does anyone has an idea what could be the core of the problem?\nEDIT\nToday I have tried print again to observe and answer questions from the comments. Observations are:\n- The process suddenly stops\n- Hotend cools down (you can observe it on the picture below - I am using left extruder - as you can see it shows 24/0; 24 is actual hotend temp, 0 - wanted temperature )\n- Display shows that print is progressing even faster than it would happen when everything is fine (maybe this is not important) \n\n\n\n\nEDIT2 \n\nI have opened the printer to see what is happening inside. The electronics is divided into 2 PCBs. One is an 'heavy job workhorse' (drivers and some logics), the other is a Olimex A20-Olinuxino-Micro. The pendrive with .gcode is connected to this board as well as the display and control joystick (actually encoder).\n\nOne of the USB ports from Olinuxino is connected to 'workhorse' board. Next to the USB port here you can see Rx/Tx diodes.\nObservations:\nWhen the print is in active state, two Rx/Tx diodes located on workhorse PCB blinking occasionally (mainly when there is a print head direction change), what brings the suggestion, that the data comes from Olinuxino PCB. When the print stops, these two diodes are blinking rapidly. I am thinking that there is some problem with Olimex board (it is sending uncontrolled data or data is being send too quick).\nBelow you can see image of drivers board with Rx/Tx diodes continuously on. There is also another Rx/Tx pair and these are also both on. \n\nI'm going to do some search on Olinuxino board/system. \n\nEDIT 3\nFinding: During board and temperature check I have found that the fan cooling bottom Olimex pcb is dead. I have took it out, connect to +24V and... no spinning.\n\nI have replaced the fan to a new one. Also, I have created a 20mm box model for printing, sliced it and tried to print it. No success here. After 2 lines of print sudden stop and Rx/Tx blink. I have downloaded model of Marvin, sliced it and tried to print: all ok!\nAlso I want to know if the data is continuously fetched from USB or loaded to Olinuxino and then used to print. So, started the Marvin print, removed USB from Creatr HS and yes, the print continues until the end. I am thinking that the data must be stored in Olimex memory and then fetched and fed to drivers PCB. Question is: where in Olimex the data is stored? Is lack of fan (and possibly overheat) damaged it slightly? If this is stored in onboard NAND memory it could cause a problem after a long time - it has 100 000 write/erase cycles.\n\nNew board would be a solution, unfortunately Leapfrog ran out of them. Olimex is selling boards, will try to buy one. I hope that different revision will work. \n\",smajli,\"I have solved the problem. After some investigation I have decided to connect directly to the drivers board. It needs to be disconnected from Olimex board and instead connected to the PC, then select 250kbps speed, COM port can be found through Device manager. I have used Repetier-Host in not Easy Mode and all possible messages turned on to see all possible messages. Then I prepared 20mm box to print and tried to print. After two lines voila! Error message: \n\n12:35:32.401 : N187 M105*41\n12:35:32.841 : Error:0\n12:35:32.841 : : Extruder switched off. MINTEMP triggered !\n12:35:32.924 : Error:Printer stopped due to errors. \nFix the error and use M999 to restart!. (Temperature is reset. Set it before restarting) \n\n\nNow I went for quick search and learned that this can be caused by intermittent fault of thermistor or its wiring. \n\n So, I disconnected thermistor from the PCB and checked its resistance: 170kohm. Now, when I moved the extruders on X axis there was a particular position when thermistor resistance went to infinity. There is a connector in head which went loose. After refitting the printer is behaving correctly.\nSummary:\nIt is a shame, that the display on this machine does not present any feedback from the drivers board. Also, the PC connectivity on the rear of this printer does not bring any clear information (rear USB is first connected to the Olimex PCB and then to the drivers PCB, some information from drivers PCB are lost). BTW: Leapfrog drivers board is an Arduino based Marlin firmware. Info sent to serial connection after connectivity established is: \n\nLeapfrog Firmware: 2.5 \nModel: CreatrHS \nPROTOCOL_VERSION: 1.0 \nFIRMWARE_NAME:Marlin V1; \nExtruder offset X: 15.23 Y: 0.02\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n6832,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris Uchytil,2.528907649931287,3.5800550457398437,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.585260288142579,How are infill paths connect to form an efficient path that respect the object's geometry?,\"I am attempting to write a basic slicer for some objects I am working with. I need to write a custom slicer as the objects are not polygonal based (they are implicit objects) and therefore cannot be plugged into slic3r. I can easily obtain the perimeter/shell of the objects I am working with and have a few successful prints. What I am having trouble with is how to add infill. I think the biggest hurdle is simply my inability to frame the question properly. How do current software tackle this problem?\n\nI don't know of my current approach is feasible but if I have a collection of vectors that represent the path around the outside of the object and a collection of vectors that represent an arbitrarily large infill pattern is there a way to union the two paths together to from an outer path (the object shell) and an inner path that is the infill pattern cut out in the shape of the object?\n\nEDIT:\n\nSorry for the lack of clarification. So lets say I cut out the infill pattern to match the inside of the object. How do I then intelligently connect all the broken infill segments together to form an efficient path that doesn't cross gaps or mess the object up in any way? \n\",darth pixel,\"simple answer is math but you know that for sure\n\nmore descriptive answer (but still simple and with no math) is more or less as follows\n\n\nslice an object with a plane to form (calculate) outline perimeter\ncreate a grid of infill according to your needs (ie: lines, grids or honeycombs)\ncalculate where outline cuts your grid of infill\nabandon all what is outside\nsort cut points in some order (\"\"some\"\" is definitely the hardest task)\njoin points according to your sort\n\n\nand voila ;)\n\nof course there is many details not mentioned in such description as distance between perimeter and infill, layer thickness and many others\nthis is just very naive and silly description but it's just to direct you where to go further\n\ngenerally there is great library which you could give a try\n\nhttps://sourceforge.net/projects/jsclipper/\n\nedit\n\nsimple sort (counter)clockwise could be like this\n\n\nset center point of the object (perimeter)\nstart from 1200 hour and calculate module and angle of each cut-point\nsort them by angle\n\n\nit's still very simple and it's working only for convex set\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6832,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris Uchytil,2.528907649931287,3.5800550457398437,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.585260288142579,How are infill paths connect to form an efficient path that respect the object's geometry?,\"I am attempting to write a basic slicer for some objects I am working with. I need to write a custom slicer as the objects are not polygonal based (they are implicit objects) and therefore cannot be plugged into slic3r. I can easily obtain the perimeter/shell of the objects I am working with and have a few successful prints. What I am having trouble with is how to add infill. I think the biggest hurdle is simply my inability to frame the question properly. How do current software tackle this problem?\n\nI don't know of my current approach is feasible but if I have a collection of vectors that represent the path around the outside of the object and a collection of vectors that represent an arbitrarily large infill pattern is there a way to union the two paths together to from an outer path (the object shell) and an inner path that is the infill pattern cut out in the shape of the object?\n\nEDIT:\n\nSorry for the lack of clarification. So lets say I cut out the infill pattern to match the inside of the object. How do I then intelligently connect all the broken infill segments together to form an efficient path that doesn't cross gaps or mess the object up in any way? \n\",Trish,\"The answer to this is pretty much basic algebra: The software tackles the problem by using a set of functions that generate the infill pattern for ALL the build volume, then discard anything outside the shells. Which is determined by algebra:\n\nBasics\n\nOutline Function\n\nAssume the outline of the body is a function $O(l)$ that has a parameter $l$ for its length. This function can be calculated into XY coordinates, giving us $y\\mapsto O^{xy}(x)$, that is parameterized after $x$, and should give us the values of $y$ for a closed function $O(l)$.\n\nInfill Functions\n\nNow, let's generate a function for infill pattern. Let's make it easy for us and use a diagonals pattern: $I_n(x)=x+n\\times d$\nwhere $d$ is a fixed parameter for \"\"distance to last line\"\" and $n\\in\\mathbb Z$ is the number of the line with 0 passing the origin.\n\nComparation: Outline=Infill\n\nNow basic algebra! Let the computer solve for each $n$ the term $O(x)=I_n(x)$. The result should be (in the best case) paired points, all on the linear function $I_n(x)$. Sort these points by their correlating $n$ value first, then the $x$ values. \n\nDealing with the results\n\nLet's assume we have some banana shape and our solutions for n=0 are like this: $P_{i=1 \\to 4}=\\{\\{1,1\\},\\{2,2\\},\\{3,3\\},\\{4,4\\}\\}$\n\nModeling starter\n\nOn the most simple cases, we hope to only have paired results - the outline is closed and thus each line passing it has to cut it in multiples of two. Because we don't allow geometry to be below $\\{0,0\\}$, the line in this example will pass into the body at the first solution of these points and pass out of it at the second and so on. Generally: It moves in at odd and exits at even i. So our infill lines in the example need to connect $\\{1,1\\} \\to \\{2,2\\}$ and $\\{3,3\\} \\to \\{4,4\\}$.\n\nEnhancing the Modeling\n\nchecking for tangents\n\nNow, we might have an odd number of points that solve O(x)=In(x) for a given n. Let's assume $P_{i=1 \\to 5}=\\{1,1\\},\\{2,2\\},\\{3,3\\},\\{4,4\\},\\{5,5\\}$.\n\nNow we need to be careful as one of these points is guaranteed to be a point in which $I_n(x)$ is a tangent at of $O(x)$. So, we need to know the first differential of $O(x)$ in the points, which is the tangent at $O(x)$. But we don't need to solve all the points: We know the first should enter and the last exit the body, so we need (for most cases) to only solve this for the points $P_i$ with $i=2 \\to i_{max-1}$. When $O'(x)=I_n(x)$, we got a tangent and remove this point from the list of points to connect with infill lines.\n\nBecause we could have several tangents in a set of points, this check has to be done for all sets of points to eliminate these points.\n\nAlso, I used the \"\"usually\"\" there by intent: there are cases where the first or last point is a tangent, and because it is easier to cose, we should run the elimination process over all $P_1 \\to P_{max}$!\n\nThe new, reduced set of points will be a paired list: $Q_{i=1 \\to 4}=\\{1,1\\},\\{2,2\\},\\{4,4\\},\\{5,5\\}$. The Infil connects $Q_1 \\to Q_2$ and $Q_3\\to Q_4$.\n\nTurning Points into vectors\n\nNow, we have our points $Q_1$ and $Q_2$ (or any other pair of $n \\land n+1$, where n is an element of the odd numbers), both on $I_{n=0}(x)$. How to connect? Easy! $I{n=0}$ is a function, most likely a linear one. Along this line has to be our connecting line from $Q_1\\to Q_2$, so the movement we have to plot is the function of our pattern between the points. For a simple, linear pattern this would be:\n\n$L_1=\\frac{I(x)}{|I(x)|} \\times |\\vec{Q_2}-\\vec{Q_1}|+\\vec{Q1}$\n\nOptimisation\n\nSorting properly\n\nNow, we have a set of Lines $L_n$, where, as established in the last paragraph, n is an odd number declaring it has the lower-end $Q_n$, and the upper-end $Q_{n+1}$. How do we sort these lines smartly so we have the least movement? Let's take a look at our lists:\n\n\nThe list of Pi, which contains all tangential points and end points. Not very helpful.\nThe reduced list of $Q_{n}$, which contains all the start and end points; it is sorted in a way that odd numbers are starts, and even ends.\nThe list of $L_n$ with i always being an odd number, that contains the movement paths (=lines) from each $Q_{n}$ to its corresponding $Q_{n+1}$\n\n\nShortest movement between prints?\n\nNow, let's do some math again: What is the closest $Q_{a}$ to the $Q_{n+1}$ we did end at after doing the $L_n$ movement? Well, first of all, we need to make sure we don't get back to already moved paths so let's make a new list $R_{i}$, which contains all the $Q_{i}$ we have not yet moved to.\n\nSo what is the closest $R_{i}$ to the end point of the path $L_e$ we just moved? Well, easy! Solve $min|R_i-L_e|$ with i being all the odd numbers in the list of $R_{i}$ and $L_e$ the point where the printhead was sent to at the end of the last movement\n\nfewest direction changes?\n\nAlways moving just the shortest distance might create a large number of direction changes. So it might be a good idea to keep the point-lists sorted by the parameter n of the function $l_n(x)$ that created the points in the first place, and run down that list from minimum n that generated points (which can be below 0) to the maximum n that generated points.\n\noptimizing direction changes & movement paths\n\nNow, we have 2 approaches that pretty much only follow the pattern. However, we might make our average movement paths more efficient by using a simple trick:\n\nUp to now, all our line functions $l_n(x)$ had the same vector and just a different starting point to one another. So all the starts were on one side of the body, all the ends on the opposite. With a very simple trick on the infill function we can generate a group of functions that alternate the sides of the end-points between each line, jsut by adding an inverse element:\n\n$L_n(x)=-1^n\\times l_n(x)$\n\nNow, after all the movements with the same $n$ are done, check for the closest starting point (which should be on the same side, but is not necessary the neighboring line), and go down that line fully, eradicating these points from the list of remaining points $R_{i}$. Once back on the side we started first at, we look for the closest unused point again, run down that line, rinse and repeat.\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n6845,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Padawan,2.528907649931287,4.113978308474901,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,0.9784382375735183,Weird stepper issue when setting up Marlin printer,\"When manually controlling the z-axis in reprap, it works fine. If I use the home button, it doesn't move. Instead, it stalls/freezes/hangs. It attempts to turn, but can't successfully make a full turn. \n\",profesor79,\"lower the moving speed of the Z-axis motor, search for \n\n\n homing feed rate\n\n\nin config.h as it looks like the given speed is to high.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n6845,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Padawan,2.528907649931287,4.113978308474901,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,0.9784382375735183,Weird stepper issue when setting up Marlin printer,\"When manually controlling the z-axis in reprap, it works fine. If I use the home button, it doesn't move. Instead, it stalls/freezes/hangs. It attempts to turn, but can't successfully make a full turn. \n\",silver,\"If you run M503 you should be able to see your max speeds. They, along with your homing speeds, are probably far too high and causing skipped steps (no movement). You can lower them down temporarily with M203. http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M203.html\n\",0.0,0.0\n6850,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Charles Fried,2.528907649931287,3.4603828048255023,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Given a viscosity is it possible to calculate required pressure for desired output?,\"The following rheology question relates to predicting the flow of polymer-based non-newtonian fluids extrusion processes. In this case, applied to 3D printing.\n\nI'm trying to calculate the pressure required to produce the desired output based on my current system (pictured). I'm working under the assumption that it can be described in the same way as an MFI test.\n\nSpecifically, is it possible to calculate the Melt Flow Index (MFI) of a polymer under different test conditions (dimensions)?\n\nThe MFI test is defined by the following:\n\n\npiston radius (change to match my system)\nnozzle radius (change to match my system)\nnozzle length (change to match my system)\ntest load (change to match desired output)\n\n\nUsing either the pre-existing MFI rating or the viscosity (or shear rate and shear stress) is it possible for me to define the test load in order to achieve output (gr/min)?\n\nThis paper seems to prove this is possible but I've not yet been able to condense it into a single/understandable equation.\n\nMelt Rheology of Polymer Blends from Melt Flow Index (bottom of page 222, 223, 224)\n\nI know that pressure = force / piston cross-sectional area\n\n\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"The answer hews close to the famous cliche \"\"In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are not.\"\" That is to say, yes, there is a nonlinear but repeatable relationship between viscosity and pressure and feed rate. However, it's strongly dependent on temperature, and further the apparent viscosity is a function of the pressure (think oobleck). \n\nIn the end, it depends mostly on whether a couple percent variation matters to the final product. (and if it did, nearly all hobbyist extrusion printers would fail)\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6853,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,NBJack,2.8153892694839717,4.6423577467062,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.6229190288168605,Route to transform 2d image (depth map) into a curved bracelet (and STL file)?,\"I've got a bracelet concept that I've sketched up as a flat design. I'm trying to found a route by which I can extrude this into a 3d object (depth map?), curve it into a bracelet, then ultimately create a STL file out of it. I'm having trouble finding a way to do this that allows me to \"\"warp\"\" the flat object into a bracelet before I try to print. \n\nIs there a recommend technique for this? I'm not worried about representation of the picture; it's effectively meant to be an 'etched' pattern.\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"Easy peasy. Go to 3dp.rocks and select the output shape you desire. I've had excellent results making flat lithopanes. I created a couple curved STLs which look fine in Cura; just didn't print them. \n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n6853,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,NBJack,2.8153892694839717,4.6423577467062,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.6229190288168605,Route to transform 2d image (depth map) into a curved bracelet (and STL file)?,\"I've got a bracelet concept that I've sketched up as a flat design. I'm trying to found a route by which I can extrude this into a 3d object (depth map?), curve it into a bracelet, then ultimately create a STL file out of it. I'm having trouble finding a way to do this that allows me to \"\"warp\"\" the flat object into a bracelet before I try to print. \n\nIs there a recommend technique for this? I'm not worried about representation of the picture; it's effectively meant to be an 'etched' pattern.\n\",Sava,\"This is the best and simplest way I've found to transform a flat design into a 3D object that you can then save as an STL file: Blender-Converting 2D Image to 3D Object\n\nThis solution requires you to use Blender and Inkscape, both softwares are open-source and available for free at this time.\n\nAs suggested below by @Greenonline, I will provide a step by step in case the video is removed from Youtube. I'm sorry that I cannot provide screenshots at the moment, but I'm on a trip and writing from an old laptop that cannot run either Blender or Inkscape.\n\n\nLoad your image in Inkscape.\n\n\nFormat is unimportant as long as Inkscape can read it. It works with black and white and color images, but please note that color information won't be sent to Blender in the end, you'll have to add color materials yourself once the picture has been converted to a 3D object.\n\nSelect the image or the portion of it that you want to turn into a 3D object.\n\n\nFor some unknown reason, Inkscape doesn't automatically select the image you loaded into it, so you have to do it manually. When the image is selected, it will be surrounded by a dotted line and you'll see arrows appear on the sides and corners.\n\nGo to Path > Trace Bitmap, or use Shift+Alt+B, and a pop-up window will appear. Keep the default settings, just make sure that the 'Remove background' option, located at the bottom of the window, is checked, then click OK.\n\n\nYou can see the result of the operation in the 'Preview' window. If the 'Preview' is empty, just click on the 'Update' button located below 'Preview'. If it is still empty after you clicked on 'Update', then you haven't selected your picture as indicated in Step 2!\n\nGot to File > Save As and save your file as 'Plain svg'.\n\n\nSaving as 'Inkscape svg' should work as well, but it's always best to use the standard format.\n\n\n\nAnd you're done with Inkscape, time to switch to Blender.\n\n\nGo to File > Import > Scalable Vector Graphics (.svg) and import the picture you just created in Inkscape.\n\n\nIf you do not see Scalable Vector Graphics (.svg) in the list of importable files, it means the add-on hasn't been activated. You can do it by going to File > User Preferences > Add-ons then typing 'svg' in the search field will bring up the relevant add-on (Import-Export: Scalable Vector Graphics (SVG) format). Clicking the checkbox next to it's name will automatically activate it. \nThe picture will usually appear very small in Blender. Press 5 on the numeric keyboard to home onto it, then you can stretch it to the desired size by using the relevant tools in Blender. \nIt might be a good idea to move the object center into the middle of the geometry, although, from personal experience, you can do it after it becomes 3D without too much trouble.\n\nYour picture has been loaded in Blender as a Curve object. Go to the 'Curve' tab and in the 'Geometry' sub-menu you can use the 'Extrude' slider to give depth to your picture.\nFinally, once you've extruded your curve to your satisfaction, go to Object > Convert To > Mesh from Curve/Meta/Surf/Text, or use Alt+C, and voila, you're done!\n\n\nYou know have a nice 3D object made of polygons that you can modify at your leisure using Blender's tools.\n\",0.0,0.0\n6860,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,theMouse,2.528907649931287,3.6495948032562278,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.2576023278269264,3D printer ends print by sinking in to it and getting stuck,\"I am using cura with M3D entry level printer.\n\nWhen I print things more than 6-7cm/2.5-3inches, at the end of the print, the hot end sink back into the print then gets stuck as it tries to return to idle position.\n\nPlease see the attached photo. Has anyone had this problem? Thank you\n\nThe last 20 lines of gcode is:\n\nG0 X50.83 Y49.982\nG1 F600 X50.541 Y49.975 E4399.62304\nG1 X50.268 Y49.985 E4399.62637\nG1 X49.999 Y49.999 E4399.63024\nG1 X49.73 Y50.012 E4399.6341\nG1 X49.457 Y50.023 E4399.63742\nG1 X49.168 Y50.016 E4399.63941\nG0 F7200 X49.28 Y49.87\n;TIME_ELAPSED:6301.614981\nG1 F1500 E4393.13941\nM107\nM104 S0\nM140 S0\n;Retract the filament\nG92 E1\nG1 E-1 F300\nG28 X0 Y0\nM84\nM82 ;absolute extrusion mode\nM104 S0\n;End of Gcode\n\n\",Mark,\"From the provided G-code:\n\nG28 X0 Y0\n\n\nThe meaning of the G28 code is move printhead to home. In theory, the presence or absence of X, Y, and Z values are used to indicate which axes the printhead should move on, but as the RepRap wiki notes, some printers ignore this, typically interpreting any G28 code as \"\"move to 0,0,0\"\". In particular:\n\n\n Because the behavior of G28 is unspecified, it is recommended not to automatically include G28 in your ending GCode. On a Cartesian this will result in damaging the printed object. If you need to move the carriage at the completion of a print, use G0 or G1.\n\n\nYou should probably replace the code with G1 X0 Y0 Z[value near the top of your printer]. You could simply replace G28 X0 Y0 with G1 X0 Y0, but that risks dragging the tip of the nozzle across the upper surface of the finished print.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6860,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,theMouse,2.528907649931287,3.6495948032562278,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.2576023278269264,3D printer ends print by sinking in to it and getting stuck,\"I am using cura with M3D entry level printer.\n\nWhen I print things more than 6-7cm/2.5-3inches, at the end of the print, the hot end sink back into the print then gets stuck as it tries to return to idle position.\n\nPlease see the attached photo. Has anyone had this problem? Thank you\n\nThe last 20 lines of gcode is:\n\nG0 X50.83 Y49.982\nG1 F600 X50.541 Y49.975 E4399.62304\nG1 X50.268 Y49.985 E4399.62637\nG1 X49.999 Y49.999 E4399.63024\nG1 X49.73 Y50.012 E4399.6341\nG1 X49.457 Y50.023 E4399.63742\nG1 X49.168 Y50.016 E4399.63941\nG0 F7200 X49.28 Y49.87\n;TIME_ELAPSED:6301.614981\nG1 F1500 E4393.13941\nM107\nM104 S0\nM140 S0\n;Retract the filament\nG92 E1\nG1 E-1 F300\nG28 X0 Y0\nM84\nM82 ;absolute extrusion mode\nM104 S0\n;End of Gcode\n\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"As Oscar commented, check the tail end of your gcode files. Most slicing software includes commands to move the head to x=0,y=0 at the very least. I am a bit surprised that your files don't appear to have this, since Cura does apply said code. \n\nPossiblly there's something lacking in your printer's firmware and it doesn't recognize some of the gcode commands.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n7008,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,theMouse,2.528907649931287,3.947711316851944,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Filament Balling up on random parts of a print,\"The skirt prints out ok, but there is balling up of filament on some of the prints.\n\nI am printing 50 small parts at a go, and the last 4 batches were perfect, but the fifth batch had filament problems like on the photo.\n\nAny advice?\n\nThanks\n\",dgrat,\"I experienced that several times if my print temperature was too low. Then, the filament does not stick to the plate very well and prefers to stick to the nozzle which pulls it away. Solution is to increase the temperature by 5 to 10 degrees, at least for the first layers..\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n10157,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,theMouse,1.0891412423578797,3.3468467879848673,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Cura settings for Fabrikator Mini V2 Turnigy or Malyan M100,\"I am trying to run this 3D printer:\n\n\nFabrikator Mini V2 Turnigy/Malyan M100\n\n\nDoes anyone have the Cura settings?\n\",cmm,\"I googled your machine name and found this HobbyKing page. There is a link here to CURA settings. \n\nPage with CURA settings\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10157,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,theMouse,1.0891412423578797,3.3468467879848673,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Cura settings for Fabrikator Mini V2 Turnigy or Malyan M100,\"I am trying to run this 3D printer:\n\n\nFabrikator Mini V2 Turnigy/Malyan M100\n\n\nDoes anyone have the Cura settings?\n\",Greenonline,\"I thought it better if I included the Cura profile settings, pointed to in cmm's answer, here, in case of link death:\n\n[profile]\nlayer_height = 0.2\nwall_thickness = 0.8\nretraction_enable = True\nsolid_layer_thickness = 1.2\nfill_density = 20\nnozzle_size = 0.4\nprint_speed = 60\nprint_temperature = 200\nprint_temperature2 = 0\nprint_temperature3 = 0\nprint_temperature4 = 0\nprint_temperature5 = 0\nprint_bed_temperature = 60\nsupport = Touching buildplate\nplatform_adhesion = Brim\nsupport_dual_extrusion = Both\nwipe_tower = False\nwipe_tower_volume = 15\nooze_shield = False\nfilament_diameter = 1.75\nfilament_diameter2 = 0\nfilament_diameter3 = 0\nfilament_diameter4 = 0\nfilament_diameter5 = 0\nfilament_flow = 100\nretraction_speed = 30\nretraction_amount = 3\nretraction_dual_amount = 16.5\nretraction_min_travel = 1.5\nretraction_combing = All\nretraction_minimal_extrusion = 0.02\nretraction_hop = 0.0\nbottom_thickness = 0.3\nlayer0_width_factor = 100\nobject_sink = 0.0\noverlap_dual = 0.15\ntravel_speed = 100\nbottom_layer_speed = 20\ninfill_speed = 0.0\nsolidarea_speed = 0.0\ninset0_speed = 20\ninsetx_speed = 0\ncool_min_layer_time = 3\nfan_enabled = True\nskirt_line_count = 2\nskirt_gap = 4.0\nskirt_minimal_length = 150.0\nfan_full_height = 0.5\nfan_speed = 100\nfan_speed_max = 100\ncool_min_feedrate = 10\ncool_head_lift = False\nsolid_top = True\nsolid_bottom = True\nfill_overlap = 15\nperimeter_before_infill = False\nsupport_type = Lines\nsupport_angle = 60\nsupport_fill_rate = 15\nsupport_xy_distance = 0.7\nsupport_z_distance = 0.15\nspiralize = False\nsimple_mode = False\nbrim_line_count = 5\nraft_margin = 5.0\nraft_line_spacing = 3.0\nraft_base_thickness = 0.3\nraft_base_linewidth = 1.0\nraft_interface_thickness = 0.27\nraft_interface_linewidth = 0.4\nraft_airgap_all = 0.0\nraft_airgap = 0.22\nraft_surface_layers = 2\nraft_surface_thickness = 0.27\nraft_surface_linewidth = 0.4\nfix_horrible_union_all_type_a = True\nfix_horrible_union_all_type_b = False\nfix_horrible_use_open_bits = False\nfix_horrible_extensive_stitching = False\nplugin_config = \nobject_center_x = -1\nobject_center_y = -1\n\n[alterations]\nstart.gcode = ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}\n ;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}\n ;Print time: {print_time}\n ;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g\n ;Filament cost: {filament_cost}\n ;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line\n ;M109 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line\n G21 ;metric values\n G90 ;absolute positioning\n M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode\n M107 ;start with the fan off\n G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops\n G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops\n G1 Z0.2 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm\n G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length\n G1 X75 E10 F{travel_speed} ;extrude 10mm of feed stock\n G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again\n G1 F{travel_speed}\nend.gcode = ;End GCode\n M104 S0 ;extruder heater off\n M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)\n G91 ;relative positioning\n G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure\n G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more\n G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way\n M84 ;steppers off\n G90 ;absolute positioning\n ;{profile_string}\nstart2.gcode = ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}\n ;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}\n ;Print time: {print_time}\n ;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g\n ;Filament cost: {filament_cost}\n ;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line\n ;M104 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line\n ;M109 T1 S{print_temperature2} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line\n ;M109 T0 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line\n G21 ;metric values\n G90 ;absolute positioning\n M107 ;start with the fan off\n G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops\n G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops\n G1 Z0.2 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm\n T1 ;Switch to the 2nd extruder\n G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length\n G1 X75 E10 F{travel_speed} ;extrude 10mm of feed stock\n G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again\n G1 F200 E-{retraction_dual_amount}\n T0 ;Switch to the first extruder\n G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length\n G1 X75 E10 F{travel_speed} ;extrude 10mm of feed stock\n G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again\n G1 F{travel_speed}\nend2.gcode = ;End GCode\n M104 T0 S0 ;extruder heater off\n M104 T1 S0 ;extruder heater off\n M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)\n G91 ;relative positioning\n G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure\n G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more\n G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way\n M84 ;steppers off\n G90 ;absolute positioning\n ;{profile_string}\nstart3.gcode = ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}\n ;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}\n ;Print time: {print_time}\n ;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g\n ;Filament cost: {filament_cost}\n ;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line\n ;M104 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line\n ;M109 T1 S{print_temperature2} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line\n ;M109 T0 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line\n G21 ;metric values\n G90 ;absolute positioning\n M107 ;start with the fan off\n G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops\n G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops\n G1 Z0.2 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm\n T2 ;Switch to the 3rd extruder\n G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length\n G1 X75 E10 F{travel_speed} ;extrude 10mm of feed stock\n G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again\n G1 F200 E-{retraction_dual_amount}\n T1 ;Switch to the 2nd extruder\n G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length\n G1 X75 E10 F{travel_speed} ;extrude 10mm of feed stock\n G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again\n G1 F200 E-{retraction_dual_amount}\n T0 ;Switch to the first extruder\n G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length\n G1 X75 E10 F{travel_speed} ;extrude 10mm of feed stock\n G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again\n G1 F{travel_speed}\n ;Put printing message on LCD screen\n M117 Printing...\nend3.gcode = ;End GCode\n M104 T0 S0 ;extruder heater off\n M104 T1 S0 ;extruder heater off\n M104 T2 S0 ;extruder heater off\n M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)\n G91 ;relative positioning\n G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure\n G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more\n G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way\n M84 ;steppers off\n G90 ;absolute positioning\n ;{profile_string}\nstart4.gcode = ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}\n ;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}\n ;Print time: {print_time}\n ;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g\n ;Filament cost: {filament_cost}\n ;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line\n ;M104 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line\n ;M109 T2 S{print_temperature2} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line\n ;M109 T1 S{print_temperature2} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line\n ;M109 T0 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line\n G21 ;metric values\n G90 ;absolute positioning\n M107 ;start with the fan off\n G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops\n G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops\n G1 Z0.2 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm\n T3 ;Switch to the 4th extruder\n G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length\n G1 X75 E10 F{travel_speed} ;extrude 10mm of feed stock\n G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again\n G1 F200 E-{retraction_dual_amount}\n T2 ;Switch to the 3rd extruder\n G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length\n G1 X75 E10 F{travel_speed} ;extrude 10mm of feed stock\n G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again\n G1 F200 E-{retraction_dual_amount}\n T1 ;Switch to the 2nd extruder\n G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length\n G1 X75 E10 F{travel_speed} ;extrude 10mm of feed stock\n G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again\n G1 F200 E-{retraction_dual_amount}\n T0 ;Switch to the first extruder\n G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length\n G1 X75 E10 F{travel_speed} ;extrude 10mm of feed stock\n G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again\n G1 F{travel_speed}\n ;Put printing message on LCD screen\n M117 Printing...\nend4.gcode = ;End GCode\n M104 T0 S0 ;extruder heater off\n M104 T1 S0 ;extruder heater off\n M104 T2 S0 ;extruder heater off\n M104 T3 S0 ;extruder heater off\n M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)\n G91 ;relative positioning\n G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure\n G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more\n G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way\n M84 ;steppers off\n G90 ;absolute positioning\n ;{profile_string}\nsupport_start.gcode = \nsupport_end.gcode = \ncool_start.gcode = \ncool_end.gcode = \nreplace.csv = \npreswitchextruder.gcode = ;Switch between the current extruder and the next extruder, when printing with multiple extruders.\n ;This code is added before the T(n)\npostswitchextruder.gcode = ;Switch between the current extruder and the next extruder, when printing with multiple extruders.\n ;This code is added after the T(n)\n\n\nNote these are some customer uploads, from the HobbyKing page for Mini Fabrikator V2 3D Printer - Silver (US Plug), under the Upload Files tab, click the CURA PROFILE_3.ZIP zip file.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10276,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,theMouse,2.528907649931287,4.726830220141054,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,How to fix wall separation in 3D prints (gaps in between wall perimeters)?,\"The print is very solid except for the 4 walls.\n\nFrom the top, I can slide a paper down to the bottom. This is ONLY between the walls, the rest of the print is solid. The filament is PLA 1.75 mm.\n\nBut the bottom is solid, no gaps.\n\nI have checked the usual problems on Ultimaker troubleshooting photo gallery, but I can find anything similar.\n\nAny advice to fix this would be very welcome.\n\n\n\nPrint settings:\n\n\n\n\",0scar,\"Now that print settings are shared we can see that this problem is not related to too fast printing (only 20 mm/s) or too low print temperature (210 °C should get PLA fluid enough). To explain this, a low temperature and too fast printing cause under-extruded lines.\n\nThere are 2 other causes that might be worth investigating:\n\n\nUnder-extrusion. From the top layers one can see that there may be insufficient material printed. Calibration of the extruder helps in this respect.\nInaccurate positioning. This may for instance be caused by loose belts or a mechanical defect.\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10276,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,theMouse,2.528907649931287,4.726830220141054,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,How to fix wall separation in 3D prints (gaps in between wall perimeters)?,\"The print is very solid except for the 4 walls.\n\nFrom the top, I can slide a paper down to the bottom. This is ONLY between the walls, the rest of the print is solid. The filament is PLA 1.75 mm.\n\nBut the bottom is solid, no gaps.\n\nI have checked the usual problems on Ultimaker troubleshooting photo gallery, but I can find anything similar.\n\nAny advice to fix this would be very welcome.\n\n\n\nPrint settings:\n\n\n\n\",R..,\"I've experienced this too, especially with flex modified PLA filament. For that, fixing underextrusion and increasing temperature made it go away. Sadly Cura has no option to overlap walls slightly (if printed in the right order, this could be done without affecting dimensional accuracy) except possibly the outer one, so you really have to get extrusion rate calibrated right or this will happen.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10859,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,theMouse,2.1782824847157594,3.079570220207228,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Top surface scarring even with Z hop,\"When the print is finished, it looks like the extruder is digging into the top layer as it returns to home?\n\nI tried adding Z hop at 5 mm but it's not really helping.\n\nSorry for the picture, white on white is hard to show.\n\nI tried a range of speeds from 40-90 mm/s and over extrusion of 100-105 %, but the scar remains.\n\nAny suggestions?\n\nHere is the end code:\n\n;TIME_ELAPSED:333.340017\nG1 F1500 E417.35346\nM140 S0\nM141 S0\nM107\nM104 S0\nM140 S0 \n;Retract the filament\nG92 E1\nG1 E-1 F300\nG28 X0 Y0\nM84\nM82 ;absolute extrusion mode\nM104 S0\n\n\n\n\n\n\",mtronics,\"Z-Hops only occur when the slicer is retracting Filament automatically (i.e. when Cura detects a move between parts/around outer walls where stringing would be a problem).\n\nIn your end G-Code, you do retract your filament, but manually. This means that Cura does not add the Z-Hop code.\n\nSolution:\nAdd this before your G28 X0 Y0 command:\n\nG91 ;Change Positioning to relative\nG1 Z5 ;Move head up by 5mm (or bed down, depending on your machine)\n\n\nThe G91 command is needed because otherwise you wold need to provide an absolute Z position which is guaranteed to be above your last layer (so you would either need to set the height to the top of your build volume (takes ages to move the head there) or to adjust the height for each printed part (annoying)).\n\nDocumentation for the G91 command: http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G091.html\n\nManual for Z-Hop and other travel moves in Cura: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52507-travel\n\nEdit:\n\nNote that this is only a good idea if MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS are enabled in your Marlin configuration.h. Otherwise, the head could move ABOVE the maximum Z height (zMax) if the print height h >= zMax -5mm.\n\nThanks to @0scar for mentioning this!\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6866,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Yehia,2.1782824847157594,2.9075761835826794,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Using two feeders at the same time,\"I am using Prusa i3 MK2s with the first version of the multi-material add-on.\n\nAs far as I understand, the slicer defined the used feeding motor using the T0-T3 code which defined one feeder at the time.\n\nIs there a way to have two feeder motors working at the same time?\n\",0scar,\"The first multi material add-on version off J. Prusa includes several separate steppers that load filament into the hot end. Note that selecting an other color will retract the existing filament so that the next filament can be loaded. There is no mixing hotend nozzle. It is therefore working serial, not parallel. Working 2 steppers at the same time will lead to clogging the filament joining position.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6878,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Josh Painter,3.0576060275493275,4.966532156255337,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,Why does my part-cooling fan cause stringing?,\"Really strange observation with my MP Select Mini V2 printing PLA. I've printed a dual-fan shroud so I can have a dedicated part-cooling fan. I've noticed that when I turn it on, the extruder starts stringing everywhere. Little tiny spider-web wisps. No amount of temperature change will make them go away (printing at 200 °C). But if I simply turn off the part-cooling fan, I get a perfect print. This doesn't make sense to me - isn't the part-cooling fan supposed to reduce stringing by cooling the filament faster?\n\nMore info: Using Ultimaker Cura 3.4.1, retraction enabled at 3.5 mm and 40 mm/s, which works great when the part-cooling fan is OFF. But when I turn it on without changing any other settings, I get stringing everywhere.\n\nPlease see picture below. The part on the left was printed using the part-cooling fan and the one on the right was printed without the part-cooling fan. No other changes. The part-cooling fan is pictured in upper left (bottom fan).\n\n\n\nWhy does my part-cooling fan cause stringing?\n\nNote that I print at 0.175 mm layer height, or \"\"Normal\"\" for the MP Mini. The cooling fan can be controlled but if I turn it completely off then the cold end part of the nozzle won't get actively cooled. Using Cura I can slowly increase the fan over the first several levels as well, but I'm worried that if the cold end doesn't stay cold it will get clogged up with melted filament. I will try some different fan speed settings and report back - currently running at 100 % all the time.\n\n\n\nI went back to the stock shroud with single fan to remove variables. The stock shroud has a small vent at the bottom where air blows over the part, but not much. I had the same problem - I had to put a piece of tape over the blow hole to get the part to print without strings. I also couldn't get the PLA to stick to the bed easily when the blow hole was open. I'm not using the heated bed in any cases - I've found I can print most PLA without heating the bed at all. I'm beginning to think maybe this PLA is just extremely temperature sensitive. The brand is 3D Solutech Printer Filament Real Black.\n\",0scar,\"Prior to a move the print cooling fan causes the filament to cool on the outside while the nozzle is still hot, when it then moves it causes a strings to form that will be cooled instantly. This means that the cooling you have is too much and should be reduced.\n\nThis printer has a single fan to cool the cold-end and the print through a slot with the same fan. As this fan can be scheduled, it would be recommended to create a dual fan on the carriage where you have a dedicated fan cooling the cold end at a fixed voltage, while the print is cooled by a separate fan that can be scheduled through slicer settings.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n6878,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Josh Painter,3.0576060275493275,4.966532156255337,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,Why does my part-cooling fan cause stringing?,\"Really strange observation with my MP Select Mini V2 printing PLA. I've printed a dual-fan shroud so I can have a dedicated part-cooling fan. I've noticed that when I turn it on, the extruder starts stringing everywhere. Little tiny spider-web wisps. No amount of temperature change will make them go away (printing at 200 °C). But if I simply turn off the part-cooling fan, I get a perfect print. This doesn't make sense to me - isn't the part-cooling fan supposed to reduce stringing by cooling the filament faster?\n\nMore info: Using Ultimaker Cura 3.4.1, retraction enabled at 3.5 mm and 40 mm/s, which works great when the part-cooling fan is OFF. But when I turn it on without changing any other settings, I get stringing everywhere.\n\nPlease see picture below. The part on the left was printed using the part-cooling fan and the one on the right was printed without the part-cooling fan. No other changes. The part-cooling fan is pictured in upper left (bottom fan).\n\n\n\nWhy does my part-cooling fan cause stringing?\n\nNote that I print at 0.175 mm layer height, or \"\"Normal\"\" for the MP Mini. The cooling fan can be controlled but if I turn it completely off then the cold end part of the nozzle won't get actively cooled. Using Cura I can slowly increase the fan over the first several levels as well, but I'm worried that if the cold end doesn't stay cold it will get clogged up with melted filament. I will try some different fan speed settings and report back - currently running at 100 % all the time.\n\n\n\nI went back to the stock shroud with single fan to remove variables. The stock shroud has a small vent at the bottom where air blows over the part, but not much. I had the same problem - I had to put a piece of tape over the blow hole to get the part to print without strings. I also couldn't get the PLA to stick to the bed easily when the blow hole was open. I'm not using the heated bed in any cases - I've found I can print most PLA without heating the bed at all. I'm beginning to think maybe this PLA is just extremely temperature sensitive. The brand is 3D Solutech Printer Filament Real Black.\n\",silver,\"The fans are allowing the strings to harden instead of break. Maybe you should use more retraction or wipe before crossing perimeters to reduce material ooze during moves.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6886,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ecfedele,2.528907649931287,4.285226429075837,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Print speed and settings for printing below 0.1mm resolution on PLA,\"I recently purchased an Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus delta printer, and I'm interested in trying to print slightly below the 0.1 mm stated lower limit of layer height. I'm not interested in trying to push much below 0.06 mm, more just 0.08 mm to give some better surface roughness on critical parts. \n\nI've found several articles that suggest that going below 0.1 mm requires lowering the printing speed, but the top answer on this question suggests that there are flow rates to consider in order to prevent jamming.\n\nI'm referring to PLA in particular as I have read that the filament viscosity is also a factor, with ABS differing from PLA. \n\nI'm interested in some benchmark settings, preferably for 0.08 mm printing. What is the ballpark range my print speed should be in to successfully print at that height?\n\",ecfedele,\"To answer this question for anyone who will find this of use, I printed this calibration cube at 25mm to a side (125% scale in Cura) with my Kossel Plus using the following settings:\n\n\n0.08 mm layer height\n45 mm/s print speed\n200°C extruder temperature with PLA\n\n\nBased on articles I read, I wanted to play it safe with the speed, staying well below the printer's rated speed of 60 mm/s, but still keeping the speed reasonably high to avoid any nozzle flow issues as describe in the linked question. The results were pretty good for a first test; the deviations, as measured with calipers:\n\n\nX: -0.09 mm\nY: +0.38 mm\nZ: +0.11 mm\n\n\nThis makes the average deviation across all axes about 0.13 mm, which is better than what I was hoping for, as that is about 5/3 of a layer's thickness. Whether or not running slower (or faster) or modifying temperature will result in better accuracy, I cannot be sure - but in this case, running the speed conservatively yielded positive results.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n6890,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Roy,2.1782824847157594,5.280059966007292,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Can the glTF format be used for 3D printing?,\"Can the glTF format be used for 3D printing?\n\nIf not, is there any tool can convert it to another format such as STL, OBJ, STEP, and IGES? \n\",Trish,\"No, gltf is not a format that slicers accept commonly, and indeed, it is not even intended to be reverseable in the 1.0 format version. This has changed a little for the 2.0 standard. Some programs that allow exporting into the sliceable stl and obj formats can also import gltf:\n\n\nblender has an importer plugin - more info here\nSketchUpp has an importer plugin\n\n\nYou have to be careful though: formats like dae or stl are meant to transfer 3d objects usually without the loss of information or with just a minimal loss (stl, for example, does technically not contain a scale natively), while gltf is end users and does not contain all the information. This can lead to models getting distorted and destroyed on importing them into a rendering or modeling software.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n6890,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Roy,2.1782824847157594,5.280059966007292,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Can the glTF format be used for 3D printing?,\"Can the glTF format be used for 3D printing?\n\nIf not, is there any tool can convert it to another format such as STL, OBJ, STEP, and IGES? \n\",0scar,\"As far as can be found it should be possible to convert glTF into STL (or OBJ).\n\nYou could try to use an online converter to do this, e.g. this one (greentoken); and this (assimp) may be useful too. \n\nAccording to this greentoken supports glTF as input and STL as output, but it is reported by @Trish that that does not work. Assimp could output STL files which then could be used by slicer programs to generate the specific G-code file to print the model on your printer.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n6927,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Roy,1.0891412423578797,2.846247604045449,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,\"How to create 3D printing file (e.g. STL, OBJ and IGES etc.) from DEM?\",\"I have DEM with 1 m resolution, how can I create 3D printing file (e.g. STL, OBJ and IGES etc.) from DEM?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"This question has been answered on a sister site, GIS Stack Exchange. It's a rather comprehensive answer posted, which means it's impractical to summarize here.\n\nGIS answer\n\nThe answer does indicate that a plug-in for QGIS software is needed in order to accomplish this objective. If you do not use/have the QGIS software, my answer is invalid. All three answers to the question linked above appear to point to the same program/plugin.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n6896,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas Sablik,3.767809650974757,5.672317611779503,1.7539669625835614,5.646830619998737,3.749318730431847,3.1455321272516725,Clamps / clips for glass on heatbed,\"I'm looking for clamps to fix the glass on my heatbed. After some search I found that some people use clamps printed of PLA. Can I use PLA clamps for a heated heatbed (~60 °C)? \n\nI also tried foldback clips but they block my nozzle. The Anet A8 starts in the front left corner. When I start to print, the nozzle moves a little bit up on z, then up on y and right on x. At this first move it moves into the fold back clip. I'm looking for a way to fix the corners and not to fix the edge in the middle.\n\nWhat other clamps or clips can I use to fix the glass (~3 mm) on the heatbed (~2.5 mm)? I don't want to use glue.\n\nMy printer is an Anet A8.\n\",Mark,\"PLA has two problems that keep it from being usable for your purposes.\n\nFirst, it deforms under load. I've used printed C-clamps for various jobs; by the time I'm done, the clamp is generally warped by 10+ millimeters.\n\nSecond, PLA has a very low heat tolerance. The glass transition temperature of PLA is around 60-65°C, right around your intended heatbed temperature, so not only will your clamps deform from the load, the plastic will flow from the heat.\n\nIf you were printing on a cold bed, you might be able to use printed clamps, printing out a fresh set whenever deformation of the current set gets too high. On a heated bed, not a chance. Look for some sort of metal spring-based clips instead.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n6896,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas Sablik,3.767809650974757,5.672317611779503,1.7539669625835614,5.646830619998737,3.749318730431847,3.1455321272516725,Clamps / clips for glass on heatbed,\"I'm looking for clamps to fix the glass on my heatbed. After some search I found that some people use clamps printed of PLA. Can I use PLA clamps for a heated heatbed (~60 °C)? \n\nI also tried foldback clips but they block my nozzle. The Anet A8 starts in the front left corner. When I start to print, the nozzle moves a little bit up on z, then up on y and right on x. At this first move it moves into the fold back clip. I'm looking for a way to fix the corners and not to fix the edge in the middle.\n\nWhat other clamps or clips can I use to fix the glass (~3 mm) on the heatbed (~2.5 mm)? I don't want to use glue.\n\nMy printer is an Anet A8.\n\",0scar,\"How about the Ultimaker clips? Ultimaker uses 2 mm heat bed and 4 mm glass, that should be within reach by bending the clips a bit. They have quite a low profile/footprint.\n\n\n\nThese clamps are very cheap and can be found on those typical auction or Chinese sites.\n\nAlternatively, you can also tape the glass to the aluminium bed using kapton tape if you are concerned about hitting the binder clips. \n\nNote that e.g. in Marlin firmware, you can define a Z-offset to prevent hitting the binder clips on movement.\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n6902,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Michael,2.528907649931287,3.264951048124368,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Unknown issue affecting print quality,\"I have been having issues with a vase print using a FlashForge Creator Pro. \nI am using the default slicer for the printer(FlashPrint) because the Creator Pro only accepts .x3g rather than .g/.gcode.\n\nThe issue is that the printer seems to be both under extruding and over extruding. \n\n\n\nI am printing ASA filament at 0.18 mm layer height at 240 °C with a heated bed at 110 °C. I am running the print with the fan on. I am also running at 80 mm/s print speed.\n\nI have tried both lowering and raising the temperature, changing the print speed from 80 mm/s to 60 mm/s, and changing the extrusion multiplier.\n\nAt this point I am not really sure what to do in order to get this to print nicely, any advice would be welcome.\n\n\n\nAfter a few more prints and the link that \"\"E-Doe\"\" posted I am beginning to think that the problem might be with the z-axis. My reason for thinking this is that the layers that bulge out do so consistently for the entire layer and then stop for a bit. I think I also ruled out temperature variation. I measured the temperature in the enclosure with a separate device and it stayed pretty constant the whole time.\n\nNot really sure how to fix that but I will call this question answered.\n\",E Doe,\"A very helpful page for troubleshooting common errors is: Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide - Lines on the Side of Print\n\nIt seems like your problem is inconsistent extrusion or temperature variation. From the photo you posted I guess that you use a big diameter nozzle. Keep in mind that your extruder might not be well equipped to deliver such a large amount of plastic consistently. This most likely is a problem with the heating capacity.\n\nYou can try to lower the speed even more to give your extruder more time to heat the plastic.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n6924,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user144627,0.0,3.247326609336232,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Can I reuse 3D printed parts?,\"I need to show a demo to people on a daily basis. But every demo is for a different 3D printed part. \n\nCan I reuse the material? Is yes, what is the maximum number of times that the material can be reused?\n\",silver,\"I ground up some prints and extruded them into new filament. The quality of recycled filament is not very high so I would not recommend it. \n\nAs pointed out earlier, the shredded bulk material you would create from your old prints would cost more in time and energy to produce than buying new raw material (pellets, not filament), and you still need to extrude it into filament to be able to use it in a printer.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n6938,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kevin,2.1782824847157594,3.8056075277672616,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,What is this weird support line doing in this print?,\"I am a newbie to 3D printing and ran into a weird infill line on my second 3D printing object on a new Qidi X-Pro machine (which works great). I've included a screenshot of the infill line, which is deliberately printed the full height of the object. I'm thinking this line has been deliberately inserted by the Qidi slicer for some reason, but I have no idea why. Do all slicers generate these kinds of lines? If so, why?\n\n\n\",0scar,\"I do not know the Qidi slicer, but if you look closely, you will see this line is thinner than the normal support infill lines. You could try to visualize the G-code in a viewer, usually this can be done in the slicer itself, but online viewers are available. The viewer will not only show the printed lines, but also show moves by the print head (usually in a different color). You can check whether this extra line is actually printed or a move. If it is a move, this extra line is caused by your hotend which is leaking when it moves. You need to properly tune the hotend with respect to the retraction settings and temperature. There are numerous retraction test print objects to find on the internet.\n\nDepending on your slicer settings, some slicers are able to define where each layer starts printing (e.g. random, or start at sharp corner). The fact you see a support structure \"\"printed the full height of the object\"\" tells you that each layer starts at the same position. It is not uncommon in uniform simple parts where each layer starts at the same position (X/Y) as this is instructed by the slicer setting. In Ultimaker Cura such an option is called Z Seam Alignment.\n\n\n\nBottom line, all slicers will do this when your printer is improperly tuned (incorrect settings for e.g. print temperature, retraction, coasting, travel speed). It is up to you to find the correct settings, test print objects help you with that.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n6945,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kevin,2.1782824847157594,3.601668775190381,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Infill failure at the far corner of two different prints,\"I am a complete newbie at 3D printing (although learning fast). I switched from the default Qidi slicer to the Cura slicer on a Qidi X-Pro machine (which is wonderful). Using: plate 50 °C, 0.4 mm nozzle 200 °C, 1.75 mm PLA, print speed 20 mm/s outer wall, 40 mm/s inner wall, travel speed 100 mm/s (the cura default, I think).\n\nOn two different prints, the same far corner (front left) had initial infill problems. Does anyone know why, or how I can solve it? My working theory is that the nozzle shoots across the whole print at high speed to start again at that corner and sometimes the infill filament doesn't bite enough to stick. \n\nEventually one of the infill layers gets a bite and the rest of the print is fine. But it's disturbing that it occurs on different prints. (I carefully level the plate before every print, so I don't think that's the issue.)\n\n\n\n\n\nUPDATE\n\nIn another question here, turning the Cura combing setting off solved an issue. It probably solved the issue described here, too, or at least contributed to solving the problem described here.\n\nMy theory is that with combing on (as it was for that question), the oozing pulls filament out of the nozzle during the travel, so there's not enough filament at the destination corner to bite and bond to the corner wall. Turning the combing setting off seems to have solved the missing infills in the corner. It also greatly improved the quality of the infill walls, too, which relates to the problem described in this question.\n\nUPDATE: Here's a paragraph from a forum posting here that explains how oozing caused by combing can result in \"\"underextrusion effects.\"\" That's what I think is happening in this post - the nozzle gets to the corner, but it has no filament to bite and bond with the wall. Credit to @0scar for giving me the forum link. Quote from the link:\n\n\n Even on interior layers, combing as implemented in Cura is a bad idea,\n as it doesn't perform retraction, and that can result in the head\n oozing as it moves, especially as each time the head crosses a line of\n infill it can tend to pull our some plastic. You can also get some\n long moves (e.g., all the way around the curve of a 'C' shaped object\n when moving from one side of the opening to the other). This can\n result in the head being empty when it starts printing the perimeter\n again, with resultant under-extrusion effects.\n\n\",0scar,\"Now that you are using Ultimaker Cura, the default (probably hidden) parameter Z Seam Alignment is set at Sharpest Corner, so it will always start in a sharp corner. The default retraction settings are pretty high in Ultimaker Cura (I think about 6.5 mm as default Retraction Distance). What happens here is that the filament is not available for printing in time (this is dependent on the extruder type), so the distance should be less than the current value.\n\nIt is highly recommended to print a retraction test to find what is best for your setup. For me the 6.5 mm works very well on my Ultimaker 3 Extended and my large custom CoreXY printer as they both use a Bowden extruder setup using 2.85 mm filament, this can be different for your printer. Choosing a different Z Seam Alignment option, e.g. random prevents the use of the same location at every height, but could result in a less aesthetic print.\n\nFurthermore, you could try to visualize the G-code in a viewer, this can be done in the Ultimaker Cura slicer itself, but online viewers are available. After slicing your product, change the combo drop down box from Solid view to Layer view to show the sliced object. Nowadays there are 2 sliders to interface with the model; the vertical sets the layer, the horizontal the progress of the layer. It is advised to play with this to understand how your print is actually printed.\n\n\n\n\nAbout your settings, print speeds are not high (could be increased), travel speed is fine (is only for non-printing moves). The brim is looking good and the level of your bed is also good.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n6990,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kevin,1.726248027126092,4.315875336275838,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How to remove unwanted filament trails from sharp corners,\"I'm a 2-week newbie at 3D printing, working on a new Qidi Xpro machine (that is solid and one that I like). So, I do not want to believe that this issue is caused by my printer itself. I'm hoping that my settings have something to do with it.\n\nThe problem is all the filament lines (travel lines, I think) that start at a sharp corner and go somewhere else. Most often, the lines go to another sharp corner but sometimes can intersect the middle of a side. See the image below for many examples. I have drawn white lines parallel to the unwanted filament lines in case they are hard to spot.\n\nThe unwanted lines also appear in the infill underneath the surface lines. They look like porous infill grid lines since they should probably not be there, and they do not get a full load of filament extrusion. You could easily say \"\"Oh, they are the result of a \"\"leaky\"\" nozzle with poor retraction, but I think it's more complicated than that. I have done a full load of retraction tests and calibrations to optimize retraction lengths and speeds to minimize hairs. \n\nHere is an image showing the problem:\n\n\n\n\n\nMy Cura settings seem reasonable for PLA: bed 50C, nozzle 200C, print speed 40mm, travel speed 90mm (100-110 makes no difference), retraction length 8.5-9.5mm (makes no big difference), retraction speed 35mm, infill: density 20% (line, grid, makes no difference), z-seam set to random, retract at new layer = enabled.\n\nI want to believe that something in my settings is telling the machine to extrude a 1/2 or 1/3 amount of filament when it starts those travels from sharp corners to somewhere else. But, I have not been able to solve the problem.\n\nEverything else works fine in a print (IMHO) except for another problem that I described here. I thought I fixed that one, but I saw it occur on the image shown above (inside the infill, under the surface that is shown above).\n\nDoes anyone have any ideas that I might try to solve the problem? Thank you.\n\nUPDATE: Here's an image with Zhop when retracted enabled at zhop height 1mm. This is an infill picture, so it cannot be directly compared to the surfaced original. But, the unwanted trails are all still there (although very thin). Maybe 2mm hop height will do it. I will run another test.\n\n\n\nUPDATE:\n\nI ran a second test with zhop 2.0mm, but without success. The problem was still there. (Retraction on, 8.5mm, min distance 0.8mm). Here is a comparison picture. I think the gcode is definitely telling my printer to do what it does, because the problem is not just a random leak. I think I'll try a different slicer in hopes that it generates different gcode.\n\n\n\nUPDATE ON COMBING\n\nOscar pointed me to the Cura \"\"combing\"\" setting in his comment below. He nailed teh problem perfectly. Combing means \"\"don't retract, and ooze as you please while you move in a straight line to the destination.\"\" That's exactly what I've been showing in my images.\n\nThe default for Cura combing is enabled. As a newbie, I didn't know enough to turn it off. Worse yet, if combing is enabled (\"\"don't retract\"\"), it prevents \"\"Zhop When Retracted\"\" from zhopping. So, all my zhop experiments did exactly nothing and had zero effect because no zhopping was occurring. After I disabled combing, then for the first time in my life I actually saw what a zhop looked like. (And thus I can assert that zhopping was not happening with combining=enabled.)\n\nHere is an image of my new \"\"perfect\"\" prints thanks to Oscar's pointer on combing. The left two prints have combing off, zhop off. They are almost perfect, inside and out. The infill walls are generally solid and smooth (20% infill) and without the globs and gaps in the image on the right (with combing on).\n\n\n\nAs a closing note, I think the combing setting was probably also responsible for the problem of missing infill grids in the corner, as described in this question. The problem doesn't happen with combing off. My theory is that with combing on (as it was for that question), the oozing pulls filament out of the nozzle during the travel, so there's not enough filament at the destination to bite and bond to the corner. So, turning combing off solved 3 problems for me: the awful surface lines, the unwanted trails in the infill, and the missing infills in the corner. It also greatly improved the quality of the infill walls, too.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Having run into this type of problem at the library makerspace, under a different slicer, I had a good idea where to start the search. It is, in your case, \"\"z-hop cura slicer\"\" and the best return came from Polar3D.\n\nKeep in mind that this post is more than 2 years old, but if the feature was there before, it should be there now. \n\nSummary (okay, dead straight copy/paste):\n\n\n Cura settings > Basic > Enable Retraction - details (click the little\n gear/cog) > \"\"Z hop when retracting (mm)\"\"\n \n You may see it default to 0.3mm, try raising this somewhere around\n 0.8mm - 1.0mm.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6990,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kevin,1.726248027126092,4.315875336275838,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How to remove unwanted filament trails from sharp corners,\"I'm a 2-week newbie at 3D printing, working on a new Qidi Xpro machine (that is solid and one that I like). So, I do not want to believe that this issue is caused by my printer itself. I'm hoping that my settings have something to do with it.\n\nThe problem is all the filament lines (travel lines, I think) that start at a sharp corner and go somewhere else. Most often, the lines go to another sharp corner but sometimes can intersect the middle of a side. See the image below for many examples. I have drawn white lines parallel to the unwanted filament lines in case they are hard to spot.\n\nThe unwanted lines also appear in the infill underneath the surface lines. They look like porous infill grid lines since they should probably not be there, and they do not get a full load of filament extrusion. You could easily say \"\"Oh, they are the result of a \"\"leaky\"\" nozzle with poor retraction, but I think it's more complicated than that. I have done a full load of retraction tests and calibrations to optimize retraction lengths and speeds to minimize hairs. \n\nHere is an image showing the problem:\n\n\n\n\n\nMy Cura settings seem reasonable for PLA: bed 50C, nozzle 200C, print speed 40mm, travel speed 90mm (100-110 makes no difference), retraction length 8.5-9.5mm (makes no big difference), retraction speed 35mm, infill: density 20% (line, grid, makes no difference), z-seam set to random, retract at new layer = enabled.\n\nI want to believe that something in my settings is telling the machine to extrude a 1/2 or 1/3 amount of filament when it starts those travels from sharp corners to somewhere else. But, I have not been able to solve the problem.\n\nEverything else works fine in a print (IMHO) except for another problem that I described here. I thought I fixed that one, but I saw it occur on the image shown above (inside the infill, under the surface that is shown above).\n\nDoes anyone have any ideas that I might try to solve the problem? Thank you.\n\nUPDATE: Here's an image with Zhop when retracted enabled at zhop height 1mm. This is an infill picture, so it cannot be directly compared to the surfaced original. But, the unwanted trails are all still there (although very thin). Maybe 2mm hop height will do it. I will run another test.\n\n\n\nUPDATE:\n\nI ran a second test with zhop 2.0mm, but without success. The problem was still there. (Retraction on, 8.5mm, min distance 0.8mm). Here is a comparison picture. I think the gcode is definitely telling my printer to do what it does, because the problem is not just a random leak. I think I'll try a different slicer in hopes that it generates different gcode.\n\n\n\nUPDATE ON COMBING\n\nOscar pointed me to the Cura \"\"combing\"\" setting in his comment below. He nailed teh problem perfectly. Combing means \"\"don't retract, and ooze as you please while you move in a straight line to the destination.\"\" That's exactly what I've been showing in my images.\n\nThe default for Cura combing is enabled. As a newbie, I didn't know enough to turn it off. Worse yet, if combing is enabled (\"\"don't retract\"\"), it prevents \"\"Zhop When Retracted\"\" from zhopping. So, all my zhop experiments did exactly nothing and had zero effect because no zhopping was occurring. After I disabled combing, then for the first time in my life I actually saw what a zhop looked like. (And thus I can assert that zhopping was not happening with combining=enabled.)\n\nHere is an image of my new \"\"perfect\"\" prints thanks to Oscar's pointer on combing. The left two prints have combing off, zhop off. They are almost perfect, inside and out. The infill walls are generally solid and smooth (20% infill) and without the globs and gaps in the image on the right (with combing on).\n\n\n\nAs a closing note, I think the combing setting was probably also responsible for the problem of missing infill grids in the corner, as described in this question. The problem doesn't happen with combing off. My theory is that with combing on (as it was for that question), the oozing pulls filament out of the nozzle during the travel, so there's not enough filament at the destination to bite and bond to the corner. So, turning combing off solved 3 problems for me: the awful surface lines, the unwanted trails in the infill, and the missing infills in the corner. It also greatly improved the quality of the infill walls, too.\n\",0scar,\"You can Z-hop what you like, but if it is oozing it is oozing, you will always see the effects of that as it just drops down. \n\nBasically you have multiple issues, first the oozing, second the line markings on the top.\n\nFirst\n\nOozing is fought by applying correct settings for e.g. print temperature, retraction, coasting, travel speed, as is explained in an answer on one of your own questions. Note that you have not explorer the coasting option as far as I understand from your question. Coasting means that you stop extruding filament prior to a move when the head is still printing. This is explained by the pressure build-up in the hotend; ideally you set the coasting length as such that all the material that is pressed out as a result of the pressure build-up is extruded just before the head moves/travels to another location. Specific calibration prints can be found to tune this for your printer.\n\n\n\nSecond\n\nThe markings on the top can be removed by setting the correct combing setting. Combing does not use retraction and uses straight moves, this saves a lot of time in printing, but it makes those ugly scars on bottom and top faces. You can set the option to not comb on those surfaces, and frankly, what happens on the inside stays in the inside, I would not worry about that. A good read with additional info on combing is this post.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n7229,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kevin,3.618048892289167,5.860280654767255,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,2.8086301675739853,What causes ripples on part of first layer?,\"I'm having issues with ripples on the first layer of big flat prints. The initial corner of a big flat print is fine, but then ripples begin to form as shown in the screenshot.\n\nI'm just a newbie, so I was thinking they might have something to do with heat or contraction or something. Normally, I use the default and print with no turbofan on the first layer. When I tried adding fan 20% or 50%, nothing much changed (slight differences in the ripple pattern and area, but that pattern varies anyway).\n\nI also wonder if one strip gets bent, then maybe the rest just follow the bends. As far as I know, my heating plate is working fine, has no serious hot spots, and I'm using a high-quality PLA+ filament. I also tried adjusting the print temperature from 205-220 (the range on the box is 205-230). Nothing seemed to help. I am running a default first layer thickness of 0.3 mm because that is supposed to help adhesion (and adhesion is fine).\n\nThe ripples look worse than they feel. They feel fairly flat, only slightly rippled, even though they look terrible! (And I don't know what that weird row with blobs is in the top left of the picture. That only happened once; almost like junk was in the nozzle or the feed gears slipped or something).\n\nI'm running a Qidi Xpro machine, Sunlu PLA+ (wonderful) filaments, bed 50 C, print temp 205-215, print speed 30-40 mm/s on the first layer, and first layer thickness 0.3 mm (normal layer thickness is 0.2 mm). This machine has a direct drive with gears immediately above the nozzle.\n\nDoes anyone know why this rippling effect occurs, and what I might to do to correct it? Thanks\n\nUPDATE: I'm adding this info here to respond to several comments concerning bed leveling, etc. (Thank you to those who made comments!) \n\n1) I'm sure that the bed is as level as I can make it because I always go through the cycle twice). \n\n2) Regarding clearance, if anything I worry that my clearance is too small since there is a fair amount of drag on my leveling card under the nozzle. So, there is definitely drag on all three level points, about midrange between the lightest drag and the heaviest drag that makes me think I'm filing off part of the nozzle. \n\n3) I do have two nozzles, so I suppose the problem could show up on one but not the other if the nozzles were screwed into the block to give different heights. But the ripple shows up on both nozzles, always in the middle of the build plate, always in the middle of a big flat print. Corners don't usually show ripple effects. I don't want to believe that my build plate dips in the middle on my new machine, either ... :-) Adhesion is fine on small prints in the middle of the plate.\n\nHere is a picture of the bottom of the piece. A careful examination shows an oscillation in the squished filament segments on a filament thread. Almost like the extruder was oscillating vertically in the z-axis at that frequency, or perhaps the filament squishyness was oscillating at that frequency. Looks almost like a weave pattern, since the squished parts alternate position on alternating lines.\n\nIt's worth saying again that the piece feels pretty smooth on both the top and bottom sides, even though it looks awful. I don't know what to make of that.\n\n\n\",0scar,\"First layer rippling is usually caused by a too low of a first layer height (for the amount of extruded filament).\n\nAre you sure that:\n\n\nYour bed is leveled as good as possible, and\nthe initial height between the nozzle and the bed is correct when Z=0 (A4 paper thickness, when moved should be giving some drag), and\nthe bed is flat. (This is most probably your actual problem!)\n\n\nTo minimize the effects, you could try to:\n\n\nincrease the first layer height, or\nset an additional Z offset in the slicer, or \nreduce the filament flow for the first layer, or\ninstall an automatic bed leveling sensor, or\nperform a manual bed levelling mesh procedure (if you have Marlin Firmware).\n\n\nThis usually helps fighting these ripples.\n\",3.0411126502294303,0.0\n7229,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kevin,3.618048892289167,5.860280654767255,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,2.8086301675739853,What causes ripples on part of first layer?,\"I'm having issues with ripples on the first layer of big flat prints. The initial corner of a big flat print is fine, but then ripples begin to form as shown in the screenshot.\n\nI'm just a newbie, so I was thinking they might have something to do with heat or contraction or something. Normally, I use the default and print with no turbofan on the first layer. When I tried adding fan 20% or 50%, nothing much changed (slight differences in the ripple pattern and area, but that pattern varies anyway).\n\nI also wonder if one strip gets bent, then maybe the rest just follow the bends. As far as I know, my heating plate is working fine, has no serious hot spots, and I'm using a high-quality PLA+ filament. I also tried adjusting the print temperature from 205-220 (the range on the box is 205-230). Nothing seemed to help. I am running a default first layer thickness of 0.3 mm because that is supposed to help adhesion (and adhesion is fine).\n\nThe ripples look worse than they feel. They feel fairly flat, only slightly rippled, even though they look terrible! (And I don't know what that weird row with blobs is in the top left of the picture. That only happened once; almost like junk was in the nozzle or the feed gears slipped or something).\n\nI'm running a Qidi Xpro machine, Sunlu PLA+ (wonderful) filaments, bed 50 C, print temp 205-215, print speed 30-40 mm/s on the first layer, and first layer thickness 0.3 mm (normal layer thickness is 0.2 mm). This machine has a direct drive with gears immediately above the nozzle.\n\nDoes anyone know why this rippling effect occurs, and what I might to do to correct it? Thanks\n\nUPDATE: I'm adding this info here to respond to several comments concerning bed leveling, etc. (Thank you to those who made comments!) \n\n1) I'm sure that the bed is as level as I can make it because I always go through the cycle twice). \n\n2) Regarding clearance, if anything I worry that my clearance is too small since there is a fair amount of drag on my leveling card under the nozzle. So, there is definitely drag on all three level points, about midrange between the lightest drag and the heaviest drag that makes me think I'm filing off part of the nozzle. \n\n3) I do have two nozzles, so I suppose the problem could show up on one but not the other if the nozzles were screwed into the block to give different heights. But the ripple shows up on both nozzles, always in the middle of the build plate, always in the middle of a big flat print. Corners don't usually show ripple effects. I don't want to believe that my build plate dips in the middle on my new machine, either ... :-) Adhesion is fine on small prints in the middle of the plate.\n\nHere is a picture of the bottom of the piece. A careful examination shows an oscillation in the squished filament segments on a filament thread. Almost like the extruder was oscillating vertically in the z-axis at that frequency, or perhaps the filament squishyness was oscillating at that frequency. Looks almost like a weave pattern, since the squished parts alternate position on alternating lines.\n\nIt's worth saying again that the piece feels pretty smooth on both the top and bottom sides, even though it looks awful. I don't know what to make of that.\n\n\n\",Kevin,\"The main problem is solved (first layer thickness vs leveled nozzle height).\n\nThe following image shows the problem. I was running with a default 0.3 mm first layer (the tooltip setting says a slightly thicker layer helps with adhesion). The build plate was correctly leveled with \"\"midrange\"\" friction on the leveling card at the leveling points.\n\nProblem cause: The midrange leveling height put the nozzle too close to the plate and caused rippling. The first layer thickness was set to 0.3 mm and the thickness of the leveling card was 0.25 mm. \n\nThe following image illustrates the problem (and one of the solutions). The bottom right of the image shows rippling. Not knowing what else to do with the \"\"too close\"\" or \"\"too far\"\" or \"\"unlevel\"\" tips in the comments, I just manually lowered the build plate knobs 1/4 turn while the print was in progress. The print began in the lower right. You can see the smooth area where I manually lowered the build plate. Then, to be sure, I raised the plate by restoring the 1/4 turn on the knobs. The rippling returned.\n\n\n\nTo further explore the 0-90 degree suggestion provided by profesor79, I changed the slicer degree settings to 0-90 degrees and set the first layer thickness to 0.2 mm, which was equivalent to lowering the build plate knobs by 1/4 turn. I kept the same \"\"midrange\"\" friction settings when leveling. The result was a first-layer print with no rippling.\n\n\n\nClosing Thoughts\n\nFrom this experience, I think:\n\n\n0.05 mm difference between a thickness of 0.3 mm on the first layer and a leveling-card nozzle height of 0.25 mm makes a rippling difference.\nUsing mid-range friction vs light friction on the leveling card also makes a difference. You don't need much of a height difference to reach 0.05 mm. Maybe even less is required to cause a ripple.\nWhen printing with a first layer thickness of 0.2 mm, tolerances were tight and I discovered a spot on my build plate that had no adhesion because of a buildup of old adhesive. It left a 1/2-inch hole in the 0.2 mm-thick first layer. I also noticed just a hint of ripple in another place on the build plate, which (I think) indicates a tiny magnetic build plate thickness or warp issue of some kind. Hardly noticeable.\nI think I will go forward with a 0.3 mm layer thickness to \"\"absorb\"\" minor flatness inconsistencies in my plate. (I have a glass plate but I have never used it because the magnetic plate is vastly more convenient.) But, to compensate for rippling effects, I will also use a \"\"very light\"\" friction amount when leveling the plate to ensure that the nozzle doesn't get too close to the plate on the first layer.\nI found that manually adjusting the build plate height during a solid first layer print was a wonderful way to detect, see, and explore all the relationships between plate leveling, plate flatness, first layer thickness, and friction adjustments on the nozzle. It's very easy to immediately see, understand, and adjust all the related settings to get the best print possible from the machine.\n\n\n\n\nThank you again to everyone who contributed ideas to understanding the problem. It's hard to pick any particular answer because the solution involved multiple ideas, so I have added my own answer to share.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n7776,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kevin,2.1782824847157594,3.5689866985524614,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Internal wall does not print in horizontal print orientation,\"I have an object that has cutouts in it (alignment pins fit in the cutouts). The shape of the hole is a right triangle with the point clipped off to create a flat surface in the deep part of the hole.\n\nWhen I print the object in vertical orientation the wall in the deepest part of the cutout is printed properly. But when I print the same object laying down flat on the build plate, the internal wall is not printed and I can see the infill grid through the hole where the wall is supposed to be. \n\nI sliced the object with a slicer based off a recent Cura version. I'm using the same STL to print the object vertically and horizontally.\n\nWhy is this occurring? Is there anything I can do about it other than printing vertically? (Because I have a need to print the real part horizontally. The part shown here is just a thin test piece.) Thank you\n\n\n\nHere is a picture showing what the (Cura-derived) slicer does with the model in horizontally-printed position. I checked the layer display in the vertically-printed instance, and the missing wall was correctly rendered and visible.\n\nI guess this is some kind of a slicer bug.\n\n\n\nHere is a large-scale picture of what the cutout shape looks like. This picture is of the protrusion tab that fits into the hole. But the same shape was used to cut the hole in the object.\n\n\n\nHere is another instance of the same problem. This time, I made up a simple block component, a simple cylinder component, aligned the cylinder into the block volume, and did a combine/cut operation in Fusion to cut a hole in the block (visible in the STL file). As you can see from the (Cura-derived) slicer layer image below, the same problem exists - no wall at the back of the cut when printing in the horizontal position. If I draw a sketch on the block and extrude/cut into the block, I get the same results. I also tried cutting the cylindrical hole, creating a \"\"tin can\"\" shell cylinder with an explicit bottom-of-the-can surface, sliding the open can into the cut hole, and joining the can to the block. Same results. The explicit bottom 0.5 mm surface of the can disappears in the horizontal slicing position. Strange.\n\n\n\nUPDATE:\n\nThe test object is just a simple block with a cylinder extruded into the block as a cutout. As simple as simple can be. I have determined that Cura 3.5.0 works properly (Cura v3.6.0 is available). \n\nI am using the Qidi slicer v5.0.7 latest, which uses an earlier version of Cura (I don't know which one; I have sent them an email to find out).\n\nI have determined that the Qidi slicer behaves properly if the cutout cylinder diameter is 6mm or larger. But at 5mm, the slicer will not generate a back wall in the cut. The square/triangular cutouts in the example objects below are all 5 mm or less. My installed Cura 3.5.0 generates a proper back wall even at 5 mm. Therefore, it must be a bug in the Qidi slicer, which uses an older version of Cura. \n\nAs a workaround, I will increase the size of my cutouts to 6 mm. When Qidi updates to a newer version of Cura (they are currently using 3.3), the problem should go away.\n\",0scar,\"I think this is caused by the shape of the hole. The shape is parabolic or circular, this means that if you slice it as in the green part, the slicer determines the placing of the layers along the curvature. If it has a shallow curvature, and slicing layer height is relatively thick, the curvature of the object cannot be followed. But, if you have more than 1 top layer, this usually should not be visible. I don't think that you have a single layer, so this is a pretty odd anomaly that I have not seen yet (that you look at the infill without top layers).\n\nYou could get past this by using a local different infill, e.g. 100 % infill. You can look at this answer of the question: \"\"Different infill in the same part\"\". This should help you out printing in your preferred orientation.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7776,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kevin,2.1782824847157594,3.5689866985524614,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Internal wall does not print in horizontal print orientation,\"I have an object that has cutouts in it (alignment pins fit in the cutouts). The shape of the hole is a right triangle with the point clipped off to create a flat surface in the deep part of the hole.\n\nWhen I print the object in vertical orientation the wall in the deepest part of the cutout is printed properly. But when I print the same object laying down flat on the build plate, the internal wall is not printed and I can see the infill grid through the hole where the wall is supposed to be. \n\nI sliced the object with a slicer based off a recent Cura version. I'm using the same STL to print the object vertically and horizontally.\n\nWhy is this occurring? Is there anything I can do about it other than printing vertically? (Because I have a need to print the real part horizontally. The part shown here is just a thin test piece.) Thank you\n\n\n\nHere is a picture showing what the (Cura-derived) slicer does with the model in horizontally-printed position. I checked the layer display in the vertically-printed instance, and the missing wall was correctly rendered and visible.\n\nI guess this is some kind of a slicer bug.\n\n\n\nHere is a large-scale picture of what the cutout shape looks like. This picture is of the protrusion tab that fits into the hole. But the same shape was used to cut the hole in the object.\n\n\n\nHere is another instance of the same problem. This time, I made up a simple block component, a simple cylinder component, aligned the cylinder into the block volume, and did a combine/cut operation in Fusion to cut a hole in the block (visible in the STL file). As you can see from the (Cura-derived) slicer layer image below, the same problem exists - no wall at the back of the cut when printing in the horizontal position. If I draw a sketch on the block and extrude/cut into the block, I get the same results. I also tried cutting the cylindrical hole, creating a \"\"tin can\"\" shell cylinder with an explicit bottom-of-the-can surface, sliding the open can into the cut hole, and joining the can to the block. Same results. The explicit bottom 0.5 mm surface of the can disappears in the horizontal slicing position. Strange.\n\n\n\nUPDATE:\n\nThe test object is just a simple block with a cylinder extruded into the block as a cutout. As simple as simple can be. I have determined that Cura 3.5.0 works properly (Cura v3.6.0 is available). \n\nI am using the Qidi slicer v5.0.7 latest, which uses an earlier version of Cura (I don't know which one; I have sent them an email to find out).\n\nI have determined that the Qidi slicer behaves properly if the cutout cylinder diameter is 6mm or larger. But at 5mm, the slicer will not generate a back wall in the cut. The square/triangular cutouts in the example objects below are all 5 mm or less. My installed Cura 3.5.0 generates a proper back wall even at 5 mm. Therefore, it must be a bug in the Qidi slicer, which uses an older version of Cura. \n\nAs a workaround, I will increase the size of my cutouts to 6 mm. When Qidi updates to a newer version of Cura (they are currently using 3.3), the problem should go away.\n\",Kevin,\"I found the answer with the help and inspiration of other people above. Their words reminded me that I could check Cura too, to see if it had the problem. Cura v 3.5.0 did not have the problem. The Qidi slicer v5.0.7 (based on Cura 3.3) correctly generated a back wall if the cutout was 6 mm or larger. At 5 mm, the Qidi/Cura slicer did not generate a back wall. I entered a ticket with Qidi about the problem. I expect the problem will be resolved in their next version. Thank you to everyone for your help.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n6958,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,888,1.0891412423578797,2.6773020262872316,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Resources for making 3d scans of electrically conductive materials?,\"I would like to make a 3d scanner for accurately modeling very small metal parts.\n\nI figured I might be able to take advantage of the fact that metal conducts electricity, and avoid using light. This might be cheaper, easier to make, and wouldn't get thrown off by shiny surfaces. \n\nBasically, I am imagining an object on a rotating stage, and a movable \"\"feeler\"\" probe. The probe is moved towards the object, and when the probe touches the metal object, a circuit is closed. The distance and angle of the probe and object are then recorded, and used to model a cross section of the object. \n\nMy question is:\nIs this technique already being used? If so, where? Is there a name for this technique? What resources should I look at for researching this? \n\",user802599,\"I have heard of similar scanning not using the electrical connecting but using the capacitance of the metal object to detect it. Capacitive Scanning works by detecting a metal object near the prob so the prob doesn't have to touch the object being scanned \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n6964,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Broken Buildings,2.1782824847157594,3.007463813452983,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Reprap RAMPs over heating issues,\"So I've got a couple problems, to begin I'm using the RAMPs 1.4, generic Arduino mega with Marlin, generic stepper motor drivers, a generic power supply. Nothing is special or even out of the ordinary. But for some reason when I plug the RAMPs in, with everything connected or everything unplugged my Arduino heats up like hell. I clocked it at around 60°c after a couple seconds of being powered on around where the main chip is. The voltage regulator seems fine because it doesn't heat up much, I've checked it around 40°c. \n\nSecond problem is the stepper motor drivers keep blowing up for some reason. With everything plugged in I power on the board for the first time and hear a small pop and then a small amount of smoke comes from the extruder driver. I replaced it thinking it was just a bad chip and the same thing happens. All other chips are fine it's just the extruder that fries.\n\nWhen the board is plugged into usb it doesn't give me any readings what so ever on what the printer is doing but the Arduino works fine with anything else I throw at it.\n\nThings I've tried: \n- Lower the voltage on the power supply from 12.00v to 11.26 with no changes\n- try running it with everything plugged in and everything unplugged\n- tried buying a new Arduino but the exact same problems occur\n\nI've gotten kinda tired of thinking of ways to trouble shoot so I'll open it up to the community.\n Picture of a friend stepper driver \n\",0scar,\"This really sounds like there is a short somewhere on the RAMPS add-on board. It is advised to not use the RAMPS add-on shield to prevent damage to the Arduino or the shield.\n\nPersonally, I would ditch this one and buy a new one. By the looks of the picture you are using a clone RAMPS, these are mass produced and the quality is not always the best (many components are skew). If you are very into electronics you could try to find the short, but it can well be that the traces on the board are somehow connected. Alternatively, you could buy a new board where RAMPS and Arduino are already combined, e.g. an MKS board.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n6977,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,uorbe001,3.0576060275493275,4.31211844916221,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,\"Upgrading to silicone heat bed, will it burn my house down?\",\"I'm looking into upgrading my heated bed and replacing it with a silicone bed. I know nearly nothing about electronics, so I would like someone more knowledgeable to confirm if what I have theorized is correct or I'm going to burn my house down trying it.\n\nBasically, I'm considering setting up a 200W@12V heater, and I am using this premium ramps, which reportedly has Toshiba TK72E12N1, S1X MOSFETs.\n\nI did some basic math following Tom's guide, if that is correct, I would be pulling 16 A current. Assuming I plug the heatbed directly to the ramps, that would mean the MOSFETs are losing approximately (considering 20 % more resistance than the datasheet says as per Tom's advice) about 1.2 W, which means the MOSFET would heat up about 100 °C above room temperature, so the total temp would be around 125 °C, which is below the graded 150 °C in the sheet.\n\nAccording to this math, I'm thinking I can just plug that heater to my RAMPS board without any issues. Should this cause any issues? Will it set a fire or melt down something? Anything else I should consider?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The heated bed port on your board has a 11A fuse. It will not work for a heated bed requiring 16A of current, no matter how good the MOSFETs might be. Note that the terminal block might also not be rated for that much current. You'd have to check, because often it is not the MOSFET itself that catches fire but the wiring or terminal blocks.\n\nAlso, keep in mind RAMPS only drives the gate with 5V. The value specified in the datasheet (for 10V) plus 20% is probably a bit optimistic. The datasheet doesn't specify the resistance at 5V, so you're guessing at what the resistance might be. Since you're already running the part quite close to its limits, and considering ambient temperature might rise above 25C, I'd be cautious. The designers of that board only intended it for use at 11A, probably with good reason...\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n6992,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jared Snyder,1.0891412423578797,2.1749897553859707,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Simplified 3d will not run extruder,\"I downloaded simplified 3d to use with Mach 3 everything seems to work properly except for the extruder which will not communicate with the new software. Not moving filament that is my only problem what is going on?\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"To use Mach3 to send printing you need to define the extruder as A instead E, since Mach3 only drives X,Y,Z,A and B motors. you can see an explanation here on is possible to send printing with mach3? Question. \n\nI haven't tried to see if is possible to change this letters directly on 3D simplify, because i'm using ramps 1.4 instead the CNC driver control. But there is an ADDON to slice your gcode with Mach3 called gnexlab, try to find it on google search. I've downloded few years ago.\n\nAdded Link \ngnexlab Addon\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7012,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hamid FzM,3.267423727073639,4.328251403802308,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,20x20x20 calibration cube size change after switching filament,\"I used to print with PLA and everything in my printer was calibrated. But I got a new type of filament called Poly Hybrid from a friend of mine. When I print a 20 mm cube, the x and y axes are fine but z axis in cube is about 18 mm. \n\nShould I calibrate my printer z axis again for this new filament type? Because I couldn't find any option in Slic3r in filament tab to set layer height.\n\",0scar,\"Filament type should have nothing to do with the issues you are facing. This is a mechanical issue or a slicing/scaling issue. The hotend should, if instructed to go to 20 mm height actually go to 20 mm (it did do that before!), it cannot \"\"lose\"\" 2 mm on the way up unless you have a lot of lost steps (e.g. too much load on the carriage pressing it down, but that seems pretty unlikely). Typical variations for Z are in the order of a few tenths of a mm for a properly dialed in printer.\n\nPlease note that the Z axis is usually controlled by a leadscrew (your printer type and brand is not known, but if you have a Prusa style printer or some sort of a cube you'll have a leadscrew, Delta's have belts), so once you dialed this in, the head will go to the instructed height. \n\nReasoning to your observations: If it was under-extrusion because of lower diameter filament, the last few layers should have been falling out of the hotend (considering the head goes to 20 mm and the print is 18 mm high). This is not the case; you have not described that kind of behavior. \n\nThe most likely problem is a slicing or scaling problem.\n\nThe answer to your question is therefore: \"\"No you do not need to calibrate the Z height.\"\". But when changing to another filament you could calibrate the extruder for this new filament; if the diameter is not far off you do not need to do that, but you could if you are into details.\n\n\n\nPreferably questions like these need to include a picture of the print and the printer type!\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n7016,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jordy337,3.0576060275493275,5.2643122501975395,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,Monoprice Select Mini V2 retraction/stringing problem,\"I have a Monoprice Select Mini V2 and I’ve recently been having issues with little strings that are thick and sturdy sticking off of models:\n\n\n\nI used Ultimaker Cura v3.4.1 to slice this model: Basic Retraction test using Hatchbox Black PLA filament\n\nAnd the following settings:\n\n\nLayer Height: 0.1313 mm\nWall Thickness 1.05 mm\nInfill: 22%\nExtruder Temp: 200 °C\nBed Temp: 55 °C\nRetraction Distance: 4 mm\nRetraction Speed: 40 mm/s\nSpeed: 50 mm/s\nZ-Hop When Retracted: Off\nSupports: Off\nAdhesion: Brim\n\n\nI’d appreciate any advice on how to fix this problem.\n\",0scar,\"The Monoprice Select Mini V2 uses a Bowden style extrusion system. Bowden extruders compress the filament in the tube where the gap between the filament and inner tube diameter allow for the filament to buckle slightly and compress causing a pressure build-up in the hotend. Without retraction this implies that the filament will start to ooze out of the hotend once you stop extruding.\n\nFrom your settings can be seen that you are using retraction. The question now arises whether you retract enough? Furthermore, this stringing can be reduced by setting the correct settings for e.g. print temperature, retraction, coasting, travel speed. It is up to you to find the correct settings; test print objects like calibration prints (like in the image you showed) help you with finding the correct settings. \n\nApparently, the retraction you use still allows for some filament to ooze out of the hotend as shown in your image. This means that prior to the travel move there is still some pressure left in the hotend. A parameter that reduced the pressure prior to the travel movement is called \"\"coasting\"\"; basically you define to stop extruding while the head is still completing the printing moves prior to the travel move. It is advised to explore this setting. Other options to investigate further include lowering filament print temperature or increase travel movement.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n7016,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jordy337,3.0576060275493275,5.2643122501975395,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,Monoprice Select Mini V2 retraction/stringing problem,\"I have a Monoprice Select Mini V2 and I’ve recently been having issues with little strings that are thick and sturdy sticking off of models:\n\n\n\nI used Ultimaker Cura v3.4.1 to slice this model: Basic Retraction test using Hatchbox Black PLA filament\n\nAnd the following settings:\n\n\nLayer Height: 0.1313 mm\nWall Thickness 1.05 mm\nInfill: 22%\nExtruder Temp: 200 °C\nBed Temp: 55 °C\nRetraction Distance: 4 mm\nRetraction Speed: 40 mm/s\nSpeed: 50 mm/s\nZ-Hop When Retracted: Off\nSupports: Off\nAdhesion: Brim\n\n\nI’d appreciate any advice on how to fix this problem.\n\",Jordy337,\"What I ended up doing was using the settings from the cat.gcode that came with the printer. It has a retraction of 10 mm specified, which I thought was a bit much, but if it works, it works.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n7019,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kozuch,1.726248027126092,4.141915978701921,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Using multiple infill types within one model,\"When modelling for 3D printing, can I distinguish somehow the type of infill in various areas of the model? Say there may be some areas in the model where I want 100% infill (maximum strength) but some areas where the infill can be less (maybe 25%).\n\nI am new to 3D printing, doing my first model (enclosure for electronics - camera module). Using tinkercad.com only so far. Places where 100% infill is wanted are usually walls of the case and \"\"threads\"\" for the bolts but I want to make the enclosure as stiff as possible as a whole so I am thinking about using some sparse infill in the \"\"free space\"\" inside of the enclosure (so that it does not break so easily when it falls to the ground etc). I just do not know how to define this within the model.\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"To achieve additional localised stiffness, you can also insert small voids (gaps) inside the model. These become double thickness walls once sliced and can be used to support things like screw holes.\n\nSee the 'negative' parts used with a cube, and the sliced result here:\n\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7019,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kozuch,1.726248027126092,4.141915978701921,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Using multiple infill types within one model,\"When modelling for 3D printing, can I distinguish somehow the type of infill in various areas of the model? Say there may be some areas in the model where I want 100% infill (maximum strength) but some areas where the infill can be less (maybe 25%).\n\nI am new to 3D printing, doing my first model (enclosure for electronics - camera module). Using tinkercad.com only so far. Places where 100% infill is wanted are usually walls of the case and \"\"threads\"\" for the bolts but I want to make the enclosure as stiff as possible as a whole so I am thinking about using some sparse infill in the \"\"free space\"\" inside of the enclosure (so that it does not break so easily when it falls to the ground etc). I just do not know how to define this within the model.\n\",Kozuch,\"I found out I misunderstood some principles of designing/modelling for 3D printing.\n\nI designed my object for 100% infill which is not really necessary. It turned out that one does not mostly have to take care of the infill % and just model the object for example as solid 3D cube and the printing service will then take care of it to print well, hopefully slicing it well for printing and choosing the correct infill percentage.\n\nSo instead of designing a \"\"hollow\"\" cube with 3mm thick walls filled with 100% infill and free space inside, one can design a solid cube and the printing service will then print it \"\"somehow\"\" - they may make the walls only 1 mm thick but fill the inside of the cube with 10% infill which may work just fine for final object stiffness etc.\n\",0.0,0.0\n7024,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Vane Voe,2.8153892694839717,3.642950305588681,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,What is the best method of printing joints for action figures?,\"I'm interested in 3D printing toy action figures, but what I don't quite know how the joints should be designed to allow flexibility. \n\nI could imagine maybe something like a screw and nut for the arms and legs that are separated with a hole in the middle that can join them, but I don't know how to get a wider range of motion on shoulders and hips. \n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"(NOTE: Converting comments to an answer.)\n\nAn interference fit would probably work. There are a couple of styles I can think of which would do. Here are some ideas from thingiverse.com which may work for your needs.\n\n\n\n(image taken from this design by OgoSport)\n\nWith this style of ball/socket, you'd have very good articulation. More than enough movement to allow for a posable action figure.\n\nAnother idea from thingiverse.com is this:\n\n\n\n(image from this design by NEMO_from_saturn)\n\nThe idea behind this style of joint is to insert it into each part (part fits over the end). This is premade and would be easy to utilize. The thing about this is, they are covered by the licensing involved with patterns found on thingiverse. \n\nAs with anything printed or mechanical, it will wear over time. You won't ever get anything which doesn't wear. It's just a fact of how it works. Some printed filaments will have better wear properties than others, like ABS, NylonX (polyamide with chopped carbon fiber strands), nylon, PET (PETG/PETT), or polypropylene (this is not all inclusive). Each filament has its own printing properties and idiosyncrasies, so pay attention to what needs to be done to print with them. This doesn't mean all of the parts need to be printed out of this material, but rather if using a joint (like the second image), you could print it out of the better wear material and print the rest out of filament which is cheaper and is easier to work with.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n7027,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tt123,2.1782824847157594,3.9952136103058273,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Anet A8 prints not good,\"I bought my Anet A8 less than 2 weeks ago. The setup went fine. In the first 1 week, I printed a lot, and the quality was really good. Now, the quality of prints is really bad. The infill is terrible, like little individual sticks and there are strands of PLA attached to the object(see picture). My Cura settings are:\n\n\nlayer height: 0.15 mm\ninfill: 70 %\ninfill pattern: grid\nprinting temperature: 205 °C\nbed temperature: 55 °C\nprint speed:35 mm/s (I reduced it from 60 to 35 thinking it might fix the issue, but no luck)\n\n\nAny help would greatly be appreciated.\n\n\n\",0scar,\"This effect you see is called stringing. Stringing can be reduced by changing any or a combination of the following slicer settings:\n\n\nlowering hot-end temperature, (less heat means less heat input so less runny filament oozing out), \nincreasing travel speed, (increase in travel speed reduces the time to move to another point implying less filament oozing),\nretraction, (increased filament retraction reduces the pressure build-up in the hot-end decreasing the filament oozing)\nincreasing coasting length (coasting means that you stop extruding filament prior to a move when the head is still printing, this is explained by the pressure build-up in the hot-end; ideally you set the coasting length as such that all the material that is pressed out as a result of the pressure build-up is extruded just before the head moves/travels to another location), \nprint part cooling, (see this topic)\n\n\nIn order to find the correct settings you will need to print so called calibration test prints. There are a lot to find on Thingiverse, just search for \"\"stringing\"\".\n\nYour print temperature may be a bit high, but some PLA filament brands require that, I don't know if that is the case with your filament, but you could start try lowering that by 5 °C a time.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n7037,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dan Hulme,4.78385405467542,6.551050898428539,4.9240077855353865,4.670422881206417,5.195138047661548,4.912918248458232,What are the advantages of gyroid infill?,\"I've seen a few print time-lapse videos lately which use gyroid infill: wavy lines, which deform across layers so that the waves end up alternating between the two axes. Other than making the time-lapse videos look much cooler, what are the benefits of this infill style compared to the more common hatching or cross-hatching?\n\",0scar,\"From this reference you can read that:\n\n\n A gyroid is a naturally occurring structure which be found in\n butterfly wings and even within membranes inside cells. In 2017, MIT\n researchers discovered that when graphene was shaped into a gyroid\n structure, it had exceptional strength properties at low densities.\n They then discovered however, that the crucial aspect of this was\n actually the gyroid structure itself, and that other materials such as\n plastic could benefit from this.\n\n\nIt is assumed that this type of infill has better properties against failure than the normal types of infill we know.\n\nA test conducted by an author named Martin is found here. He printed test specimen and subjected them to bending to test the resistance against shear stress.\n\n\n\nFrom the figure can be concluded that the gyroid infill has a better resistance against bending for a lower weight. \n\nThe advantages of gyroid infill over the tested infill types are:\n\n\nhigh shear strength, and \nlow weight (so less filament needed).\n\n\nOn top of these advantages Gyroid infill prints relatively fast with respect to some other infill types and is close to isotropic (i.e. uniform in all orientations), meaning that is very suitable for flexible prints.\n\",4.452510692745205,2.0769199823829045\n7037,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dan Hulme,4.78385405467542,6.551050898428539,4.9240077855353865,4.670422881206417,5.195138047661548,4.912918248458232,What are the advantages of gyroid infill?,\"I've seen a few print time-lapse videos lately which use gyroid infill: wavy lines, which deform across layers so that the waves end up alternating between the two axes. Other than making the time-lapse videos look much cooler, what are the benefits of this infill style compared to the more common hatching or cross-hatching?\n\",Gerd Schroeder-Turk,\"About a decade ago, we looked at the 'Gyroid infill structure' (which we called sheet solid). We looked at it as a linear-elastic solid and as possible bone scaffold design:\n\nhttps://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0142961211006776\n\nWhat came out of that study that lots of the triply-periodic minimal surfaces (a broader class of structures that comprise the Gyroid) had interesting elastic moduli. \n\nOne thing that's worth noting though is that the Gyroid is not isotropic. Rather, it has cubic symmetry, ie 3 rather than 2 linear elastic constants. But it comes fairly close to isotropic\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n7288,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dan Hulme,2.8153892694839717,3.861196422461661,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,\"Print \"\"hairs\"\" without support in GrabCAD Print\",\"I have a part with hair strands, such as the Hairy Lion on Thingiverse, and I want to print it on a Stratasys F370. The thin strands are intended to print without support, bridging to the exterior wall. Although the bridges are quite long, it doesn't matter if they sag, because they will be heat-treated afterwards.\n\n\n\nBut when I open the STL file in GrabCAD Print, the slicer gets over-protective of those long bridges, and inserts soluble support for every one. As well as being a huge waste of support material, it would take ages to dissolve out all of that support, and it's completely unnecessary. However, there are other parts of the model that overhang and do need support, so I can't just disable support completely.\n\nHow can I avoid supporting these bridges?\n\",Dan Hulme,\"There's no way to do this in GrabCAD Print alone, but you can achieve it using Insight, which you can reach from the Apps menu in Print. The steps are as follows:\n\n\nOpen your STL file in Insight.\nGo to Modelers → Setup… and set the printer, layer height, and material to the same as in Print. If you get these wrong, you won't find out until you get to the end and Print refuses to print the part.\nUse one of the red icons to slice your print, with or without the wall thickness filter.\nUse the red and green icon to generate support. You'll notice all of your hairs are now supported.\nGo to View → Display options…. Set View only to Group curves, and then Group to view to All support. This filters out the (red) model curves, showing only the (green) support curves.\nGo to Edit → Delete…. Then left-click and drag a box around the unnecessary supports. For my part, dragging the 3D view to be top-down made it easy to drag a box around just the hair supports while leaving the other supports untouched, but it'll depend on the shape of your part.\nIn the right panel, make sure the delete mode is set to Curves, and click OK. Now all your supports should be gone. At this stage you can set the display options back how they were if you want to inspect your model further.\nUse the green circle icon to create toolpaths\nFile → Save As… → Toolpath to save as a .cmb or .cmb.gz file.\nGo back to GrabCAD Print. (You can close Insight now if you want.)\nFile → Import CMB and choose the file you just saved.\n\n\nCMB files show up very boxy on the tray view (and Print will display a warning about that), but if you go into slice preview mode, you should see it as it was in Insight, with just the right supports.\n\nThere's one caveat with this method. The slicer generates the base as a single contour, so deleting the supports under the hairs doesn't remove that section of base, and AFAIK you can't make the slicer recompute just the base (so generating support again would put the original supports back). You could edit the base contour before step 8, or disable the base completely in the support options before step 4, but the amount of support material saved probably isn't worth the effort.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n7494,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dan Hulme,1.0891412423578797,3.2043470614382206,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,How to paint ABS to look like wood,\"I have a piece printed in white ABS, which is a half-scale replica of an unvarnished oak sculpture. After sanding off the worst of the layer lines, I'd like to paint it to get a nice wood finish. I believe that most hobby paints should stick fine, but how should I paint it to get a nice oaky appearance? Should I do layers of different colours? Will I get better results with spray or brush paints?\n\",Dan Hulme,\"I found step-by-step instructions on Instructables specific to 3D-printed parts. In summary:\n\n\nSand and brush with acetone for a smooth finish (I guess the acetone vapour treatment would work as well.)\nPrime with plastic primer\nSpray-paint with a satin, nutmeg-coloured base coat\nAdd grain with darker, acrylic paint using a fine brush\n\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n8172,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dan Hulme,2.1782824847157594,2.846247604045449,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How do I decide what size my push-fit feature should be?,\"I'm designing a box and lid that will be FDM-printed. The lid push-fits onto the box. What kinds of gaps/tolerances should I use when designing pieces that fit together? has advice for designing the clearance between the lid and the box. Assume I've already settled that question and I have a good clearance so my lid slides on and off freely.\n\nNow I'd like to add a lip-and-groove feature to my design to hold it shut, with a lip on the lid that clips into a groove in the box when the lid is fully closed - like a cantilever fit, but easy to open, and directly on the mating walls.\n\nHow deep should I make the lip and how tall? Does it depend on what plastic I'm printing in? Does it depend on the wall thickness and the geometric rigidity of the part?\n\",Trish,\"A push-fit, or rather snap fit, feature can come in several shapes and forms. Let's look at the example of a snap buckle, inspired by Angus video on the tpic:\n\n\n\nThis Buckle has a harsh hook, it offers no way to push it in after finding its resting place, it is pretty much a \"\"no release, no safety release\"\" type. But with slight alterations it can become a safety buckle just by altering the 90° angle in the middle and providing a slope while offering a place to press the buckle in at the catch offers user release. Now, what does that have to do with dimensioning?\n\nDimensioning a piece\n\nWhen deciding about the dimensions of a feature we need to evaluate several factors against each other:\n\n\nIntended use\nPrintability and print orientation\nMaterial choice\n\n\nLet's discuss the three separately.\n\nIntended Use\n\nThe shape is dictated by the function of our part. Do we need a one-time snap fit that keeps the internals of our box closed forever? Do we need to open the buckle whenever we take off a backpack? Do we need a safety release to prevent the backpack from strangling the user if it catches somewhere? As we design the part for the use, and its intended loads, we also design minimum sizes for some features: a user-release buckle or snap fit needs to be large enough to be manipulated by a human (with the right tool), and the dimensions have to be large enough so the part can bear the intended loads.\n\nMaterial Choice\n\nDifferent plastics behave differently under stress. ABS is known to be somewhat flexible in comparison to PLA, bending before breaking softly while PLA shatters once its maximum load is broken. The choice of the material also dictates the wall thicknesses, and thus the dimensions, we can use. \n\nAs an example, I have printed one of these Z-Axis tension triangles in PLA for my TronXY-X1. Due to how this part is designed, the bent arm can bend a little but wants to return to its original shape, thus forcing the straight arms apart. By this, it applies force on the wheels which in turn roll tight on the beam in between. Even as this is PLA, the work on the part is still in the elastic deformation area due to the sheer size of the item - the lever is quite long to take the little flex PLA has and distribute it over the whole length of the arms.\n\nPrint considerations\n\nNow, we have to keep in mind we print our parts layer by layer and the weakest part of a print is the inter-layer bonding. So the strongest snap-fit will have its bending lever printed in the XY plane while the weakest has its lever bend in a way that the bending occurs along with the XY slices. \n\nHowever, we can use this to our advantage if we want to: I had printed this for StarWarsDay this year, and the little det_button.stl is printed with the levers of the snap-fits bending in the XY layer. They are also extremely fragile (1-2 walls). From own experience, they survive being pushed into their respective hole but can't be extracted without destroying the levers, making this piece pretty much act like a tamper seal.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10377,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dan Hulme,1.726248027126092,2.541486592782186,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,What alternatives are there to sanding resin parts with fine details?,\"I have some transparent resin parts printed with a polyjet printer. Where the support contacted the part it has a matte finish. The recommended finishing technique for these parts is to sand them with sandpaper, but the geometry of my part makes that very difficult. What alternatives to sanding do I have, to give these parts a glossy finish?\n\nI'm looking for techniques appropriate to a home or small office environment. A technique that needs special equipment bigger than a desk is probably not going to work for me.\n\",entropicCreator,\"desktop tumbler/brass polisher, rotary rock tumblers are probably a better option than a small sandblasting cabinet. choose your abrasive material from there, a coarse sand is probably not what you want but there are walnut based things and finer grit materials that should be able to get a nice shine. if you would rather do it manually and geometry allows you can try a dremel-type rotary tool with a buffing wheel or similar\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10487,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dan Hulme,1.726248027126092,2.990353475154485,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,What solvents are appropriate for smoothing/finishing ASA?,\"When I print parts in ABS, acetone vapour smoothing is a good technique to get a smooth finish. Is there an equivalent solvent or process for parts printed in ASA? Ideally I'm looking for something as easy to obtain as acetone, and not so awful a chemical that I wouldn't want to work with it, but I'd still be curious to learn about less friendly solvents.\n\",Trish,\"ASA is Acrylonitrile styrene acrylate. According to Wikipedia:\n\n\n ASA can be solvent-welded, using e.g. cyclohexane, 1,2-dichloroethane, methylene chloride, or 2-butanone. Such solvents can also join ASA with ABS and SAN. Solutions of ASA in these solvents can also be used as adhesives.\n \n Staff, PDL (1997). Handbook of Plastics Joining: A Practical Guide. Elsevier Science. p. 515.\n\n\nSolvent-welding means that the material is at least somewhat easily soluble in these fluids (they dissolve the material at the interface and as they evaporate, the former interface layers bond as if molded or welded), and the fact that the material can become an adhesive means that it is somewhat good soluble in these. \n\nThe least dangerous (and thus most advised from my side) of these 4 is 2-butanone, the others are listed as carcinogenic, and in the case of 1,2-dichloroethane, also toxic.\n\nIf these solvents can be used as a smoother similar to acetone with ABS would need testing, but a short exposition to their vapors should suffice to test this.\n\nAddendum:\n\nThese four solvents also are able to solve Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS), which is a quite similar plastic in regards to its contents (butadiene instead of acrylate).\n\n\n The acrylate rubber differs from the butadiene based rubber by absence of double bonds, which gives the material about ten times the weathering resistance and resistance to ultraviolet radiation of ABS, higher long-term heat resistance, and better chemical resistance. Wikipedia\n\n\nAcetone might prove to be also a possible option, but results might differ from those on ABS.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n10487,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dan Hulme,1.726248027126092,2.990353475154485,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,What solvents are appropriate for smoothing/finishing ASA?,\"When I print parts in ABS, acetone vapour smoothing is a good technique to get a smooth finish. Is there an equivalent solvent or process for parts printed in ASA? Ideally I'm looking for something as easy to obtain as acetone, and not so awful a chemical that I wouldn't want to work with it, but I'd still be curious to learn about less friendly solvents.\n\",Perry Webb,\"From Simplify3D - ASA:\n\n\n ASA can be smoothed using controlled exposure to acetone vapors (a process called “vapor smoothing”).\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7041,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Craig Bennett,2.8153892694839717,4.34759906355837,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Does PETG fade in the sun?,\"I'm looking at scanning in a statue on my pond and making a print of it. I'm wondering if PETG will fade and how fast. I'm thinking of using white or maybe a bone color if possible. \n\nIf PETG fades kinda fast, what material should I use? Keep in mind this will deal with all weather types, full sun, and it will have water coming out of it.\n\nI've been 3D printing for a bit, but I never made anything to stay outside for looks. I know PETG is pretty good at water, and I think it's stronger than ABS when it comes to weather. But I'm in NC, and I even lived in FL at a point. Shockingly, I found the sound in NC can bleach wood in a matter of days to weeks in the mid of summer where it might take all summer in FL. So I'm worried what I might make will get that yellow fade look that plastic does in the sun.\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"tl dr: For the most part, yes it should be color fast in the sun. It should be good for outdoor use.\n\nThis website claims the following:\n\n\n Filament materials ... for outdoor use include ASA and PETG that are perfect for use in extreme conditions without changing shape or appearance. Printed pieces do not change colour either with the sun's UV rays and do not take on a yellowish appearance as does ABS, for example.\n\n\nPlease realize, this is partially an advertisement (and no, I have no affiliation). What it boils down to is, PETG and ASA are going to be better for outdoor use, but every brand of each is going to be a little different in how well it reacts to the elements. Without advertising on the site, you'd need to do a little investigating on your own, with the possibility of testing different brands to come up with what you believe is the best. Beyond that, it's just an opinion.\n\nI doubt any filament, no matter what it is made of, is going to be perfectly colorfast in the sun. The sun is a harsh beast. It will bleach a printed object over time. Some colors are going to be more susceptible than others, especially red. This is due to the color of the sun. Again, some filaments are going to be better than others, but I'd not expect any filament to be perfect.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n7042,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SnowboardBruin,2.1782824847157594,4.050760051113303,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.320478682445624,3.1761792699540483,How can I have a large 3D printed object?,\"I have a concept that's roughly 18\"\"x30\"\" (about 457x762 mm), and I just realized that the Makerbot and similar printers only allow dimensions around the size of a piece of paper. What are other options? Are there large 3D printers I just don't know about? I looked up TMC injection mold, but couldn't find anything on size (most links go to PDFs with printer images). \n\nIs injection even in the same \"\"world\"\" as 3D..? Sorry for confusing the two.\n\",amra,\"I do not know about your project, but the size of the final object.\n\nSmaller prints glued together\n\nJust design smaller parts and glue them together. Take a look on this video, where Joel Telling glues OpenRC Formula parts. \n\n\n\nHangprinter\n\nInteresting concept is Hangprinter where volume size depends on your room size. It's a RepRap so you have to build it yourself. Components price should be around 500$.\n\n\n\nBuy a big printer\n\nIf your budget is bigger then you can buy a printer. See following lists: \n\n\nhttps://all3dp.com/1/best-large-3d-printer-large-format-scale-3d-printers/\nhttps://www.aniwaa.com/largest-3d-printers/\n\n\nPrint service\n\nIf you have higher budget and you need just one, two prints, then you can use 3d printing services like 3dhubs. Such services use large printers. See a list on all3dp.com.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n7042,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SnowboardBruin,2.1782824847157594,4.050760051113303,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.320478682445624,3.1761792699540483,How can I have a large 3D printed object?,\"I have a concept that's roughly 18\"\"x30\"\" (about 457x762 mm), and I just realized that the Makerbot and similar printers only allow dimensions around the size of a piece of paper. What are other options? Are there large 3D printers I just don't know about? I looked up TMC injection mold, but couldn't find anything on size (most links go to PDFs with printer images). \n\nIs injection even in the same \"\"world\"\" as 3D..? Sorry for confusing the two.\n\",Greenonline,\"As Trish states, a print service would appear to be your best bet. Building a printer large enough may work out costing more than the print service, especially if it is only for one print of a proof of concept.\n\nAnecdotally, I visited a 3D Printing shop in Bangkok, JWH High tech Garden, that had a huge Delta printer that had, reputably, cost a million baht (~£20000) if my memory serves me correctly, and was capable of producing prints up to 1000 mm x 600 mm (39.37\"\" x 23.62\"\"):\n\n\n\nHowever, the print service was not cheap at all. In May 2017, I was quoted 68000-100000 baht (~£1360-2000) for some printed parts (the proteins) for a Wilson II 3D printer, which are about only £70 on eBay!\n\n\n\nHowever, it is worth taking into consideration that, at the moment, Thailand is very expensive for 3D printing in general, as it is relatively new there, and so prices for both printers and print services are high.\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n7070,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ariel Larraburu,2.1782824847157594,4.40585485122598,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,How do I add auto bed levelling to my Marlin-based CNC?,\"I just finished a CNC that uses Marlin Firmware. The dimensions of it are quite large (3200 x 2000 mm) and the table is not perfect. I'm thinking of adding a proximity sensor to store a mesh in the eeprom and thus compensate for any errors. I'm not sure how to do this. I would like to be able to execute an action from the display (full graphics) and have samples taken over the whole table, but I do not know how to tell the firmware where to take the samples, nor what the dimensions of it are.\n\",0scar,\"Auto bed leveling requires some settings (constants) in the configuration of your Marlin firmware.\n\nIt is recommended to read about the implementation of automatic bed leveling first. There are a few options to choose the kind of leveling, for 3D printers a commonly chosen option is AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR which is the best option if you do not know if your bed is flat or not. If you are certain it is flat but tilted (e.g. when you have a milled bed or a glass plate in 3D printing) you could go for AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT or AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR.\n\nWhat further is important is the sensor type you choose. Do you want a touch or a proximity sensor. The latter is your preference (as specified in your question), which is a little simpler as you do not need to configure for servos for deploying and stowing.\n\nYou need to set: \n\n#define FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE\n\n\nfor using a fixed proximity sensor.\n\nIn the configuration file you also need to specify the position of the probe in relation to the nozzle (in your case tool center):\n\n#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]\n#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]\n\n\nand optionally:\n\n#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]\n\n\nThis latter is not necessary as you can always set the distance of the sensor trigger point to the nozzle/tool plane by G-code command M851 Z-x.xx \n\nYou would also need to set the boundaries of the probe area to prevent the tool to hit unwanted positions (fill out values or leave the constants):\n\n// Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).\n#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE\n#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE\n#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n\n\nOnce properly setup, command G29 runs the leveling of the bed, options are available for that command to store the bed mesh to EEPROM.\n\nEnabling LCD_BED_LEVELING constant in the configuration file will add a Bed Leveling sub-menu to the LCD. But you could also work with SD-card stored files that load these codes.\n\nThis reference explains the automatic leveling in more detail, but there are many more detailed guides to follow from the internet. Be sure that you get a recent guide to that is easier to set in the latest firmware.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n7083,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user6329530,2.8153892694839717,4.278664750009861,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.9505769891325135,Strange walls/faces when importing self made model from Blender to Cura 3,\"I wanted to create a coin stacking device similar to this one:\n\nhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:499177\n\nBut I wanted to only 3 coins, 5c, 2c, and 1c. Unfortunately the STL came in pretty messy after importing to Blender, which made it difficult to edit the model to have only 3 stacks. So I decided to create my own. I used a box and three cylinders with the diameter of the coins + 2mm so the coins can fall loose into the stack. The cylinders where used for boolean modify the box to create the stack gaps.\n\n\n\nExporting the model as an obj and importing them to Cura showed it getting strange diagonal faces at the stack gaps and at the top. \n\n\n\nAfter slicing however the faces were gone and the test print came out pretty decent, even on low quality settings the measurement were quite exact.\n\n\n\nStill I would like to know why these additional faces appear and how to prevent that. I am not a blender expert, but I guess it has to do something with the topology/faces? I started creating additional edges in Blender for the isolated vertex created by the boolean modifier, but I don't know if that's actually necessary for a 3d printed model that's not going to be textured ect.\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"It is quite common for modelling operations to result in 'non manifold geometry', meaning that some of the faces intersect or are not perfectly joined.\n\nAlthough there is nothing obvious in your model, you can check in blender by going into edit mode, unselect all, selecting nodes, and 'select all by attribute/non manifold' Ctl-Alt-Shift-M (if I remember right).\n\nUsually this happens with boolean operations where you merge the same object twice (i.e. union for the hole, then difference with the cut part). You would need to apply the boolean to see the non-manifold result.\n\nAny of the standard mesh fixing tools will attempt to clean up your exported STL, and you could then import the model back into blender (but then it is a one way process, and you can't make updates to the base model). \n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n7083,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user6329530,2.8153892694839717,4.278664750009861,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.9505769891325135,Strange walls/faces when importing self made model from Blender to Cura 3,\"I wanted to create a coin stacking device similar to this one:\n\nhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:499177\n\nBut I wanted to only 3 coins, 5c, 2c, and 1c. Unfortunately the STL came in pretty messy after importing to Blender, which made it difficult to edit the model to have only 3 stacks. So I decided to create my own. I used a box and three cylinders with the diameter of the coins + 2mm so the coins can fall loose into the stack. The cylinders where used for boolean modify the box to create the stack gaps.\n\n\n\nExporting the model as an obj and importing them to Cura showed it getting strange diagonal faces at the stack gaps and at the top. \n\n\n\nAfter slicing however the faces were gone and the test print came out pretty decent, even on low quality settings the measurement were quite exact.\n\n\n\nStill I would like to know why these additional faces appear and how to prevent that. I am not a blender expert, but I guess it has to do something with the topology/faces? I started creating additional edges in Blender for the isolated vertex created by the boolean modifier, but I don't know if that's actually necessary for a 3d printed model that's not going to be textured ect.\n\",Jorge Pujalte Abraham,\"Judging from your second screenshot, I'd say that Cura does not like n-gons very much.\n\nAn n-gon is any polygon with more than 4 sides. Most software tries to convert these polygons into triangles, with solutions that may not be what you want. Obviously, if you triangulate your surfaces manually this problem becomes moot.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n8242,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user6329530,1.0891412423578797,3.7393256487986095,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Anet A8 ignores extruder temperature?,\"I don't understand what's wrong with my G-code. I have set the printing temperature to 195 °C but when I try to print, the target temperature is always 0 °C and printing never starts. \n\n\n\nI have tried changing material preset to different PLA profiles but that didn't help at all.\n\nG-code:\n\n;FLAVOR:RepRap\n;TIME:1736\n;Filament used: 0.676205m\n;Layer height: 0.1\n;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.4.1\nT0\nM190 S50\nM104 S195\nM109 S195\nM82 ;absolute extrusion mode\nG21 ;metric values\nG90 ;absolute positioning\nM82 ;set extruder to absolute mode\nM107 ;start with the fan off\nG28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops\nG28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops\nG1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length\nG1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again\nG1 F9000\nM117 Print0ng...\nM83 ;relative extrusion mode\nG1 F1500 E-6.5\n;LAYER_COUNT:96\n;LAYER:0\nM107\nG0 F600 X90.425 Y93.152 Z0.3\n;TYPE:SKIRT\nG1 F1500 E6.5\n...\n\n\nEdit: The extruder and heat sensor are working. An older G-code file correctly sets 200°C as the target temperature for the extruder.\n\n\n\nThis G-code prints just fine\n\n;FLAVOR:RepRap\n;TIME:4628\n;Filament used: 1.44191m\n;Layer height: 0.15\n;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.4.1\nT0\nM190 S60\nM104 S200\nM109 S200\nM82 ;absolute extrusion mode\nG21 ;metric values\nG90 ;absolute positioning\nM82 ;set extruder to absolute mode\nM107 ;start with the fan off\nG28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops\nG28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops\nG1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length\nG1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again\nG1 F9000\nM117 Print0ng...\nM83 ;relative extrusion mode\nG1 F1500 E-6.5\n;LAYER_COUNT:80\n;LAYER:0\nM107\nG0 F4800 X72.96 Y99.484 Z0.3\n;TYPE:SKIRT\n---\n\n\",0scar,\"There is nothing wrong with the G-code, M109 S195 sets and waits for the temperature to reach the set point. There must be a different reason, other than G-code, why the temperature is not set correctly.\n\nAfter updating your question by adding another G-code script, the conclusion is that there is nothing wrong with the G-code itself. The problem is that the printer cannot set the 195 °C temperature.\n\nCould it be that the minimum temperature is 200 °C and that it doesn't set a temperature lower than the minimum value?\n\nIf you are comfortable enough to flash a new firmware (which you should always do with an Anet A8 as it has no thermal runaway protection) you could try to see if this is a firmware problem.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8242,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user6329530,1.0891412423578797,3.7393256487986095,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Anet A8 ignores extruder temperature?,\"I don't understand what's wrong with my G-code. I have set the printing temperature to 195 °C but when I try to print, the target temperature is always 0 °C and printing never starts. \n\n\n\nI have tried changing material preset to different PLA profiles but that didn't help at all.\n\nG-code:\n\n;FLAVOR:RepRap\n;TIME:1736\n;Filament used: 0.676205m\n;Layer height: 0.1\n;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.4.1\nT0\nM190 S50\nM104 S195\nM109 S195\nM82 ;absolute extrusion mode\nG21 ;metric values\nG90 ;absolute positioning\nM82 ;set extruder to absolute mode\nM107 ;start with the fan off\nG28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops\nG28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops\nG1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length\nG1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again\nG1 F9000\nM117 Print0ng...\nM83 ;relative extrusion mode\nG1 F1500 E-6.5\n;LAYER_COUNT:96\n;LAYER:0\nM107\nG0 F600 X90.425 Y93.152 Z0.3\n;TYPE:SKIRT\nG1 F1500 E6.5\n...\n\n\nEdit: The extruder and heat sensor are working. An older G-code file correctly sets 200°C as the target temperature for the extruder.\n\n\n\nThis G-code prints just fine\n\n;FLAVOR:RepRap\n;TIME:4628\n;Filament used: 1.44191m\n;Layer height: 0.15\n;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.4.1\nT0\nM190 S60\nM104 S200\nM109 S200\nM82 ;absolute extrusion mode\nG21 ;metric values\nG90 ;absolute positioning\nM82 ;set extruder to absolute mode\nM107 ;start with the fan off\nG28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops\nG28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops\nG1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length\nG1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again\nG1 F9000\nM117 Print0ng...\nM83 ;relative extrusion mode\nG1 F1500 E-6.5\n;LAYER_COUNT:80\n;LAYER:0\nM107\nG0 F4800 X72.96 Y99.484 Z0.3\n;TYPE:SKIRT\n---\n\n\",Kaleb Callahan,\"Double check the physical connection to the heating element and the thermistor that go in the hot end. Those wires and crimps aren't great. I had one fail on me out of the box with my A8. Re-crimping did the trick.\n\",0.0,0.0\n8280,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user6329530,2.1782824847157594,5.010459532214404,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,Slicer settings for easy support material removal,\"What are the best settings for Ultimaker Cura to have support material that's easy to remove for my Anet A8. I have printed an object with two different spools of PLA (same manufacturer just different color). The black print was printed with 200 °C, the grey one with 210 °C both a flow of 100 %. Thee black print seems like it has a little over-extrusion while the grey print has some under-extrusion artifacts despite the higher printing temperature. The grey support was really hard to remove and looks super messy the black one not so much...\n\nWhat would be better settings?\n\n\n\nCould it be that the material is so much different despite same manufacturer? The black one seems to flow much better than the grey one. Both have suggested temperature of 210 °C\n\n\nBTW the thing is 33x25 mm in size. It's rather tiny that makes printing it somewhat awkward...\n\nI have finished another print with a brim and a different support setting (Cross with 50 %) and at 195 °C and an infill rate of 100 %. The support came off much better, the under-extrusion is minimal on the layers however for some reason the top layer does get messed up with open spots and the little nob at the corner was just a a mere stringy stumb that fell off instantly and the walls of the holes came out spongy while the layers of the ring and the long side are smooth and fine...\n\n\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"Cura has some settings for the support structure which may help. Somewhere in the full Preferences menu is a setting for \"\"gap at top\"\" or equivalent wording. If you increase that gap slightly, the support material will be less strongly bonded to the part. Be careful, since a huge gap could lead to bridging problems. \n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n8280,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user6329530,2.1782824847157594,5.010459532214404,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,Slicer settings for easy support material removal,\"What are the best settings for Ultimaker Cura to have support material that's easy to remove for my Anet A8. I have printed an object with two different spools of PLA (same manufacturer just different color). The black print was printed with 200 °C, the grey one with 210 °C both a flow of 100 %. Thee black print seems like it has a little over-extrusion while the grey print has some under-extrusion artifacts despite the higher printing temperature. The grey support was really hard to remove and looks super messy the black one not so much...\n\nWhat would be better settings?\n\n\n\nCould it be that the material is so much different despite same manufacturer? The black one seems to flow much better than the grey one. Both have suggested temperature of 210 °C\n\n\nBTW the thing is 33x25 mm in size. It's rather tiny that makes printing it somewhat awkward...\n\nI have finished another print with a brim and a different support setting (Cross with 50 %) and at 195 °C and an infill rate of 100 %. The support came off much better, the under-extrusion is minimal on the layers however for some reason the top layer does get messed up with open spots and the little nob at the corner was just a a mere stringy stumb that fell off instantly and the walls of the holes came out spongy while the layers of the ring and the long side are smooth and fine...\n\n\n\",Trish,\"From the picture, I suggest printing with 200 °C, as the grey print lost its cohesion at a higher temperature.\n\nWhy higher = worse\n\nA filament is a solid that turns into a highly viscous fluid under heating and the more you heat it, the less viscous it gets. However, it also has a very high surface tension, which means, that as it extrudes and if it is not pressed down immediately, then the filament goop will thin as the head moves, resulting in under extrusion and stringiness. Print temperatures from manufacturers have to be seen with a grain of salt, as the measurements are calibrated to their test printer, which is not your printer.\n\nSupport Structures\n\nTo get good support structures, the support needs to:\n\n\nhave enough surface to not topple over \n\n\nin case of thin towers, use a brim\n\nThe density should be enough to carry but not enough to stick too well\n\n\nI have had best experiences with 5 to 10% support\n\ndon't support angles that don't need it\n\n\n45° is safe, 70° is on the very hard side. I go with 50 to 60° usually.\n\n\n\nIn a related manner, make sure that the minimum layer time is set to at about 5 to 10 seconds, which allows the single tip to cool down a little and get better prints\n\nPrint Geometry Analysis\n\nThe part you want to print is quite complicated with the different Z-heights to start at. It might be possible to increase printability by including \"\"sacrifice blocks\"\" of material about 1 or 2 layer heights below the print, pretty much including a support structure into the print design itself. This way the bottom might get better supported.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n8328,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user6329530,1.726248027126092,4.219475624539356,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,Why does my printer create notches on the Y surface?,\"Here is an extreme example of notches caused by the printer. They go along all sides but are the strongest on the Y faces. They also happen quite randomly sometimes they are tiny sometimes they are strong. \n\n\n\nI have tightened the belts already and while that reduced the ghosting on the X face a lot, it did nothing on the Y and actually never helped with the notches. This test cube has notches and ripples too but not that strong (the skirting on the bottom of that cube is my fault I set the bed level a little too low).\n\n\n\n\n\nAll models have been sliced with Ultimaker Cura and printed on an Anet A8. Flow = 110 %, layer height of 0.1 mm for the first example and 0.2 mm for the cube, printing temperature = 195 °C, no change on jerking and acceleration from default settings. Cube size = 20x20x20 mm.\n\nThe printer has frame support https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1672959 but no other upgrades yet.\n\",Trish,\"I see two problems with your printer: your filament seems to overheat in some areas, and you overextrude a little. My suspicion is, that your heating behavior is not well tuned and it overshoots the target temperature, leading to an overcooked filament, then the temperature drops below the temperature you need, leading to a wavy pattern and brown lines.\n\nfixing\n\nI suggest running a PID-tune cycle to get better heating behavior and then recalibrating the printer's extruder.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n8328,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user6329530,1.726248027126092,4.219475624539356,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,Why does my printer create notches on the Y surface?,\"Here is an extreme example of notches caused by the printer. They go along all sides but are the strongest on the Y faces. They also happen quite randomly sometimes they are tiny sometimes they are strong. \n\n\n\nI have tightened the belts already and while that reduced the ghosting on the X face a lot, it did nothing on the Y and actually never helped with the notches. This test cube has notches and ripples too but not that strong (the skirting on the bottom of that cube is my fault I set the bed level a little too low).\n\n\n\n\n\nAll models have been sliced with Ultimaker Cura and printed on an Anet A8. Flow = 110 %, layer height of 0.1 mm for the first example and 0.2 mm for the cube, printing temperature = 195 °C, no change on jerking and acceleration from default settings. Cube size = 20x20x20 mm.\n\nThe printer has frame support https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1672959 but no other upgrades yet.\n\",David Duley,\"I noticed that thermistors provided with Chinese kits are not up to specs. Do yourself a favor and go to mouser or digikey and order a proper thermistor that is rated for the temperature range in question.\n\",0.0,0.0\n7092,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nerevar,3.267423727073639,4.753039350684102,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Help with a Tool Change Script,\"So, I have a Raise3D Pro2, and I'm looking to perfect a tool change script for it, the goal of which is to reduce or eliminate the excess plastic that tends to build up on the nozzle when using the dual extruder. The printer uses the Marlin G-code flavor, and although I'm not sure this matters, I'm slicing in ideaMaker. The script is supposed to flow as follows:\n\n\nRetract current tool\nMove to X30 Y300\nCheck if the new active tool is T0\n\n\nIf T0, wipe nozzle 2mm circle\nIf T0, cool T1 to 165C\nIf T0, heat T0 to 230C\nIf T0 and not layer 1, recover \nIf T0, wipe nozzle again, this time for the new tool\n\nCheck if the new active tool is T1\n\n\nIf T1, wipe nozzle 2mm circle\nIf T1, cool T0 to 165C\nIf T1, heat T1 to 230C\nIf T1 and not layer 1, recover \nIf T1, wipe nozzle again, this time for the new tool\n\n\n\nThe current script I have looks like this:\n\n; extruder switch gcode start\nG10 S1; Retract for current nozzle\nG1 X30 Y300 F6000; Move to X:30 Y:300\n[if {new_extruder}=0]; LEFT Extruder is active (T0)\n[if {new_extruder}=0]G12 P2 R2; Clean inactive nozzle 2mm circle\n[if {new_extruder}=0]M104 S165 T1; Cool inactive extruder to 165c (T1)\n[if {new_extruder}=0]M109 S230 T0; Heat active extruder to 230c (T0) and wait.\n[[if {new_extruder}=0] and [{layer_index} NE 1]]G11; Recover current nozzle when not first layer\n[if {new_extruder}=0]G12 P2 R2; Clean active nozzle 2mm circle\n[if {new_extruder}=1]; RIGHT Extruder is active (T1)\n[if {new_extruder}=1]G12 P2 R2; Clean inactive nozzle 2mm circle\n[if {new_extruder}=1]M104 S165 T0; Cool inactive extruder to 165c (T0)\n[if {new_extruder}=1]M109 S230 T1; Heat active extruder to 230c (T1) and wait.\n[[if {new_extruder}=1] and [{layer_index} NE 1]]G11; Recover current nozzle\n[if {new_extruder}=1]G12 P2 R2; Clean active nozzle 2mm circle\n; extruder switch gcode end\n\n\nThe issue is that, when I run a print with this, it doesn't seem to run all of the commands. It does the move, and the cooling/heating, but the retract/recover and nozzle wipe doesn't seem to read. I'm not sure if that's because of a printer or syntax issue, or because those commands don't work the way I think they do.\n\nEDIT: (by Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 - Added new code and logic back in)\n\nNew logic:\n\n\nRetract current tool\nMove to X30 Y300\nCheck if the new active tool is T0\n\n\nIf T0, wipe nozzle 2mm circle\nIf T0, cool T1 to 165C\nIf T0, heat T0 to 230C\nIf T0 and not layer 1, recover\nIf T0, wipe nozzle again, this time for the new tool\n\nCheck if the new active tool is T1\n\n\nIf T1, wipe nozzle 2mm circle\nIf T1, cool T0 to 165C\nIf T1, heat T1 to 230C\nIf T1 and not layer 1, recover\nIf T1, wipe nozzle again, this time for the new tool\n\n\n\nThe new script I have looks like this:\n\n; extruder switch gcode start\nG10 S1; Retract for current nozzle\nG1 X30 Y300 F6000; Move to X:30 Y:300\n[if {new_extruder}=0]; LEFT Extruder is active (T0)\n[if {new_extruder}=0]G12 P2 R2; Clean inactive nozzle 2mm circle\n[if {new_extruder}=0]M104 S165 T1; Cool inactive extruder to 165c (T1)\n[if {new_extruder}=0]M109 S230 T0; Heat active extruder to 230c (T0) and wait.\n[[if {new_extruder}=0] and [{layer_index} NE 1]]G11; Recover current nozzle when not first layer\n[if {new_extruder}=0]G12 P2 R2; Clean active nozzle 2mm circle\n[if {new_extruder}=1]; RIGHT Extruder is active (T1)\n[if {new_extruder}=1]G12 P2 R2; Clean inactive nozzle 2mm circle\n[if {new_extruder}=1]M104 S165 T0; Cool inactive extruder to 165c (T0)\n[if {new_extruder}=1]M109 S230 T1; Heat active extruder to 230c (T1) and wait.\n[[if {new_extruder}=1] and [{layer_index} NE 1]]G11; Recover current nozzle\n[if {new_extruder}=1]G12 P2 R2; Clean active nozzle 2mm circle\n; extruder switch gcode end\n\n\",profesor79,\"As far as I can recognize, the g-code file cannot be evaluated by printer firmware.\n\nIt is expected that slicer software will be aware of tool head selection and process tool changes according to g-code provided in an on-tool change in most slicers. \n\nThe best way to think about g-code (in RepRap word) is a one-way communication as the file is not treated as a script that can read and evaluate parameters on the go. (firmware capabilities).\n\nreferences: \n\nRepRap G-code list\nPrinter quick start guide\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7095,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tiktak,1.0891412423578797,4.2490217041645435,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Creality CR-10 slightly jerks when moves from right to left,\"So when CR-10 prints square (like on the video starting from 6 second) while being in the top right corner extruder jerks i.e. slightly moves to the right and then continues movement to the left. So the resulting prints are not so nice:\n\nWhat can I do? I don't see issues in assembling but I almost definitely have them. What can be wrong?\n\nUPDATE: Printer settings: nozzle temperature - 180, bed temperature - 65. I calibrated extuder according to the video. Bed level seems to be ok for me. I started using Difamix because of bed adhesion (sometimes even using IKEA mirror).\n\nHere is my calibration cube size (I wrote only edges different from 20mm):\n\n\n\nAnd here is the issues with calibration cube I found. Top layer:\n \nBottom layer:\n\nLayer with Y is a bit rough (not a big issue as for me):\n\nAlso edge between X layer and Y layer is not very sharp, a bit rounded.\n\",silver,\"It looks like the nozzle is not perfectly perpendicular to the bed. It is also dragging which might indicate overextrusion or bad z stop calibration..\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7121,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ptschack,2.528907649931287,4.070703599356221,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Can't print on Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mini,\"After unboxing and setting up my brand-new Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mini, I can't seem to print. When selecting a model to print, the extruder does not heat up and the whole printer does nothing, yet the progress bar moves from 0 to 100 in a few seconds time (VIDEO LINK).\n\nPlease note that\n\n\nthe extruder does heat up when adding filament and does extrude a\nsmall amount when adding filament\nthe servos all seem to work, as the\nextruder moves around just fine when leveling the bed using the\nwizard\n\n\nI have done the following as per the manual:\n\n\nRemoved the cable ties which held the bed for transport\nAttached the spool holder\nConnected power and switched it\nOn leveled the bed using the wizard multiple times\nAdded a spool of 1.75 PLA filament as instructed by the manual/firmware \nThe included SD card wasn't recognized, copied the files to a new one, which was recognized.\n\n\nThis is the link to the file I'm trying to print.\n\nI have flashed the firmware as described here but it didn't change anything\n\nI can print using the Wanhao Cura software and a USB connection. For the time being, this is an acceptable workaround.\n\nThe nozzle size is 0.4 mm\n\",0scar,\"Please note this is not a full answer, but it does address a problem pointed out in the question.\n\n\n\nThe linked file does contain some strange information. Although in the comments it is said to use a layer thickness of 0.2 mm, see:\n\n; layerHeight,0.2\n\n\nwith a first layer being 90% of this size:\n\n; firstLayerHeightPercentage,90\n\n\nit actually does not.\n\nThe actual sliced layers are measured in 0.5 mm and 0.222 mm and 0.45 mm for the first layer!?! The first layer is at:\n\nG1 Z0.450 F1000\n; process Process1\n; layer 1, Z = 0.450\n\n\nthe next layer is 0.5 mm, so 0.95 for layer 2:\n\n; layer 2, Z = 0.950\nM106 S255\nG1 X65.347 Y84.268 F4800\nG1 Z0.950 F1000\n\nAnd then it becomes strange, \n\n; layer 3, Z = 1.172\n\nfor layer 3 (so a 0.222 mm layer height), and 0.222 mm for layer 4 and so forth.\n\nThis is a pretty odd sliced file, which basically is not possible to be printed with a 0.4 mm nozzle (you should never exceed a layer height of about 75% of the nozzle width, so max. 0.3 mm for a 0.4 mm nozzle).\n\nI don't know the firmware, but I find it hard to believe that the firmware knows what kind of nozzle is present (although Ultimaker does know that with their nozzle core concept they launched from the Ultimaker 3 series). It could be that your firmware does know the nozzle size and does not let you print these layer sizes. It is therefore recommended to reslice the print and other objects and take a closer look at the G-code files.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7124,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Till B,2.1782824847157594,4.750396961749328,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Massive over extrusion after changing firmware,\"I have an Anet A8 printer (no modifications) and first printed a calibration cube. It came out okayish, within expectations. Afterwards I flashed the firmware to Marlin 1.1.9 and since then have very high over extrusion. In this picture you see on the left the original calibration cube with the stock firmware and on the right a cube with Marlin (unfortunately not a good picture):\n\nIn fact on the right cube you can see two narrow vertical lines in which extrusion appeared to have come out fine.\n\nThe cube on the left was without calibration. On the right hand side all axes, including the extruder, where correctly calibrated. The bed is level. The extruder has been calibrated in case of the cube on the right hand side (95.6 steps/mm). Material is PLA.\n\nAfter flashing to Marlin the over-extrusion became such a problem that the nozzle is constantly dragging over the printed plastic. You might notice, that these are in fact different cubes, that is correct. I tried the same G-code from the left cube again, but aborted the print, because the nozzle was hitting the print too much.\n\nI calculated a modified flow rate according to this tutorial and found that I would have to reduce my flow rate to 44%.\n\nThis appears quite wrong to me. What could be in the firmware change that causes such a massive over extrusion?\n\",0scar,\"Very wise to change the firmware of the stock Anet A8. The stock firmware does not have thermal runaway protection which Marlin Firmware does have. \n\nYou should be able to print equivalent or slightly better with Marlin Firmware as you can tweak it better/easier than the closed firmware clone of Repetier that is originally loaded onto the board. My A8 runs perfectly fine on 1.1.9.\n\nTo identify if this is over-extrusion, you need to check out the settings of the steps per millimeters that are defined in your configuration.h file:\n\n/**\n * Default Axis Steps Per Unit (steps/mm)\n * Override with M92\n * X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]\n */\n#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 100, 100, 400, 100 }\n\n\nFurthermore, rather than calculating the flow reduction, you could calibrate your extruder.\n\nFrom the images it it hard to say whether this is over extrusion or not, it does look like it is printed at a high temperature. Please update the question to include print material and print settings (hot end temperature).\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n7217,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Till B,3.267423727073639,5.3013968553982425,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.320478682445624,2.531698478710706,\"What triggers Marlin's \"\"Click to resume...\"\"?\",\"I have a long print that keeps aborting. At some random point mid-print the printer says \"\"Click to resume...\"\". There is nothing in the G-code that asks for user confirmation. What could it be that triggers this? I noticed that sometimes (not every time) there is a blob of plastic in the way that should not be there.\n\nOn one occasion, after the \"\"Click to resume...\"\", the LCD showed the message FY178.N16466 and again waited for a click.\n\nThe printer is an Anet A8 with Marlin 1.1.9. Slicer is Cura. I am printing via USB from Cura directly.\n\nThis is the error message:\n\n\n\",0scar,\"To answer your question directly, this action (Click to resume...) is triggered by a buffer overflow of the Marlin firmware that is caused by the repetitive sending of M105 command by Ultimaker Cura (without checking the result).\n\nThis problem is a reported problem and fixed in the next release of Ultimaker Cura (please do note that as of posting this answer, the 3.6 Beta release is available for download). It appears to be a communication problem between Ultimaker Cura 3.4+ and 1.1.8+ versions of the Marlin firmware and has to to with polling of the temperature (M105). The link above also states it is fixed in the 3.6 release (which is the next release) as the fix has been integrated in the main code base.\n\nThis describes the problem:\n\n\n To update the temperatures in the monitor, Cura sends M105 pings every\n 2 seconds. It seems that if this is done during a print without\n waiting for an OK from the printer, the serial buffer on the printer\n may still overflow eventually (causing Marlin to complain/pause).\n\n\nand this describes the solution:\n\n\n During some operations, such as preheating, the printer responds to\n new commands with echo:busy. While it is busy, it does send\n temperature messages, but these are not prepended with an ok,\n because the ok is supposed to show that a command was received and\n executed. So the two patches I wrote do the following:\n \n \n the pattern matching no longer looks for ok messages, but looks for\n temperature updates (this fixes the temperature updating while the\n printer is preheating) \n once the printer has said that it is busy, stop\n asking for temperature updates until the next ok is received (this\n prevents the serial buffer overflowing while preheating)\n \n\n\n\n\nOld answer centered around the firmware (based on the text of the OP, no photo with the actual error message was added yet):\n\nThe text click to resume print cannot be found (with case insensitive search) in the latest sources of Marlin 1.1.9 down to Marlin 1.1.6. This means that you are using a different fork, an older version of Marlin or the message is not displayed as such.\n\nThe text message Resume print can be found, and is part of the message constant MSG_RESUME_PRINT\n\n#define MSG_RESUME_PRINT _UxGT(\"\"Resume print\"\")\n\n\nBut, this cannot be found in some sort of a concatenation using MSG_RESUME_PRINT!\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n7217,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Till B,3.267423727073639,5.3013968553982425,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.320478682445624,2.531698478710706,\"What triggers Marlin's \"\"Click to resume...\"\"?\",\"I have a long print that keeps aborting. At some random point mid-print the printer says \"\"Click to resume...\"\". There is nothing in the G-code that asks for user confirmation. What could it be that triggers this? I noticed that sometimes (not every time) there is a blob of plastic in the way that should not be there.\n\nOn one occasion, after the \"\"Click to resume...\"\", the LCD showed the message FY178.N16466 and again waited for a click.\n\nThe printer is an Anet A8 with Marlin 1.1.9. Slicer is Cura. I am printing via USB from Cura directly.\n\nThis is the error message:\n\n\n\",HSaturn,\"For your information, this problem has occurred for me with Cura 3.6.0 (yesterday and 2 days ago)\n\nI thought the problem was occurring with Marlin since 1.8.\n\nMy Marlin version is 1.3 (... just discover that because of that issue!)\n\nAs my printer works perfectly with 1.3, I'd prefer not to upgrade.\n\nI had the 'click to resume' problem twice. \n\nI've printed tons of ABS models without problem, two days ago, I've printed PLA models and had this issue. (70 °C 200 °C).\n\nFor sure if the problem occurs again, I'll upgrade to Marlin 1.9 (or even 2.0 even if still in beta) because it seems that you have found the problem and already solved it; I was surprised to read that it was fixed in Cura 3.6 since I had the problem with that version.\n\nMy printer is a Tevo Tarentula (modified, I've removed the pseudo bed leveling options because I prefer to level manually (no z move while printing)).\n\nOne more information is that in parallel, I've decided to print the first layer at a very low speed (adhesion problems).\n\nI've changed from 30 mm/s (ABS with big adhesion problems) to 10 mm/s with PLA + Cura 3.6 and went into this bug (yes one could argue that I may print faster etc., but that's not the point here). Maybe I have the problem because I'm printing the 1st layer at a this slow speed (thus making the full buffer problem more critical).\n\nThe bug does not occur each time I print, even when printing the same model with same parameters...\n\n@HuguesDug reported the same problem 14 days ago and\n@Leeb answered him that running with Marlin 1.9 solved the problem.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7759,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Till B,1.726248027126092,3.9729059858762246,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Failing y-axis home with loud rattling,\"I have an Anet A8 and I currently try to improve the y-axis (with a tensioner and a frame to support the structure). Now after I dis- and reassembled the y-axis, I get a loud rattling noise when homing the y-axis (and also when moving it stepwise from within the firmware). After the rattling goes on for a second or two, the printer halts and asks to reset. During the rattling, the print bed moves much slower. It appears to only rattle at the end of the axis, close to the endstop, however the point at which it starts to rattle appears random.\n\nI tried a tighter and looser belt and aligning the frame. When moving the bed manually, it does require some force, but it does not appear to be tighter at the back side of the axis. Also nothing seems to block the path of movement.\n\nI noticed that with a tighter belt the rattling starts only closer to the end stop, however it appears like I have to overtighten it to work properly. I got it to hit the end stop this way without halting, however it still produced the rattling sound. Also the y-stepper motor made a high pitched humming noise after this operation.\n\nWhat else could I check or do about it?\n\nThis is a video showing the print bed with the rattling sound:\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H0Xhz2GtUYQ\n\nView from below:\nhttps://youtu.be/oTEuZUWD0ZM\n\nThis is the motor mount:\n\n\nAnd this is the tensioner with the support frame:\n\n\",Trish,\"With the second video and the photos I could identify, that the sound in part stems from the belt:\n\n\nIt is too loose and swing sideways as it pulls.\n\n\nTighten the belt till it sounds at least like a C3 or D3 (130/146 Hz) and possibly higher. My Ender3 is tuned to something like A3 (220 Hz). It should be tight and show no sideways swinging on using the motor.\n\nIt seems also, that the belt is not running parallel but skewed - that would induce sideways swing too. Make sure the axis of the motor and the pully are parallel and the mounting point of the carriage is not sideways of the belt path, as this will rub the belt against the gear.\n\",0.0,0.0\n7759,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Till B,1.726248027126092,3.9729059858762246,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Failing y-axis home with loud rattling,\"I have an Anet A8 and I currently try to improve the y-axis (with a tensioner and a frame to support the structure). Now after I dis- and reassembled the y-axis, I get a loud rattling noise when homing the y-axis (and also when moving it stepwise from within the firmware). After the rattling goes on for a second or two, the printer halts and asks to reset. During the rattling, the print bed moves much slower. It appears to only rattle at the end of the axis, close to the endstop, however the point at which it starts to rattle appears random.\n\nI tried a tighter and looser belt and aligning the frame. When moving the bed manually, it does require some force, but it does not appear to be tighter at the back side of the axis. Also nothing seems to block the path of movement.\n\nI noticed that with a tighter belt the rattling starts only closer to the end stop, however it appears like I have to overtighten it to work properly. I got it to hit the end stop this way without halting, however it still produced the rattling sound. Also the y-stepper motor made a high pitched humming noise after this operation.\n\nWhat else could I check or do about it?\n\nThis is a video showing the print bed with the rattling sound:\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H0Xhz2GtUYQ\n\nView from below:\nhttps://youtu.be/oTEuZUWD0ZM\n\nThis is the motor mount:\n\n\nAnd this is the tensioner with the support frame:\n\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"From your video, it sounds to me as though the stepper motor is fighting against the bed movement. That would indicate to me the bed rails on the X-axis are not square to the bed movement, which would cause binding of the linear bearings on the bed.\n\nTo see if this is the issue, loosen the threaded rods in all six places (three placed times two rods). Loosen the belt tensioner so it is not causing any issues. Then see how the bed moves. If the bed is freed up, tighten the nuts on the threaded rods two at a time on the same plane (each plate of the frame). At each tightening, ensure the bed continues to move freely. Measure the distance as accurately as possible to ensure the frame continues to stay square and are parallel to each other. Once you have tightened all of the nuts on the threaded rod, then re-tighten the belt tensioner.\n\nIf none of this solves it, it could also be an issue with your linear bearings. If your Anet A8 is a Chinesium clone, the bearings are not what I'd call \"\"top notch\"\". I replaced mine with Igus Drylin bearings and have not regretted the $10 investment. There are other printed options you could go with as well, which you can find on thingiverse.com.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8681,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Till B,1.726248027126092,3.247326609336232,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Bed and nozzle temperature jumping,\"During my last print I noticed this jumpy behavior during heat up (blue is bed, red is hotend):\n\n\n\nSo I am wondering about the jumps. What could cause this? I do not think that it is a defunct sensor (it is in both sensors) and I also don't think it is real. Could this pose some sort of hazard as temperature might not properly be controlled?\n\nI use an Anet A8 printer with Marlin 1.1.9 and Octoprint\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"Since the terminal temperatures never exceed the setpoints, there's no apparent potential for disaster. Whether it's due to missing readings or to some sequencing of power (current) applied to the bed vs. the hotend, it really doesn't matter. \n\nIf you have a similar graph of the temperatures over an hour of printing and you see signifcant anomalies there, that might be of interest. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n8681,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Till B,1.726248027126092,3.247326609336232,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Bed and nozzle temperature jumping,\"During my last print I noticed this jumpy behavior during heat up (blue is bed, red is hotend):\n\n\n\nSo I am wondering about the jumps. What could cause this? I do not think that it is a defunct sensor (it is in both sensors) and I also don't think it is real. Could this pose some sort of hazard as temperature might not properly be controlled?\n\nI use an Anet A8 printer with Marlin 1.1.9 and Octoprint\n\",Kjell,\"It looks like everything is ok with the real temperature, and it is just Octoprint missing some readings, like Oscar said. \nBut I think it is unlikely the USB cables fault, the whole print would fail in that case. I think the PI is to busy, maybe due to a Webcam streaming at high rate (try reducing the framerate). Another reason might be if you use a PI Zero W, especially if you transfer data over the Wifi at the same time, since Wifi and USB cause bottlenecks for each other on that board.\n\nPS. I'd comment, but don't have privilege yet.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10045,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Till B,2.1782824847157594,2.3718730033712077,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Short circuit on RAMPS 1.6 board?,\"I have a RAMPS 1.6 board. After soldering my stepper drivers, I probed them for bridging and found a short where none should be. Digging deaper into it, my multimeter shows continuity between the 12V +/- connectors (on occasion).\n\nI have scanned the whole board repeatedly for solder bridges, but could not find any. Are there any known weaknesses that I should look for or any specific place I should look at to repair it?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Your multimeter showing continuity doesn't necessarily mean there is a short.\n\nAll your multimeter is doing is applying a small voltage and then, if the current that flows is over a certain threshold, reporting that there is continuity.\n\nThe components (stepper drivers, microprocessor) on the board, draw current. That's normal. The current draw might be enough for your multimeter to report continuity. Because the multimeter is only using a small voltage to test (and not the required 12V), the current draw may be intermittent (not enough voltage for the microprocessor to actually start working), and capacitors getting (dis-)charged may also affect things.\n\nThe multimeter not reporting continuity is a guarantee of no short. However, the multimeter reporting continuity does not mean there is a short. The only way to find out is to apply 12V. If you use a current-limited power supply the possibility of damage if there is a short circuit is limited.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n7130,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,m.m,2.528907649931287,5.399884000548079,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.548335113978322,3.9829738809469584,\"Does the Ender 3 need an 8 pin mini USB or 5 pin, or no difference?\",\"I've been searching for a reassuring answer for a week now. What type of mini USB does the Creality Ender 3 need? I have studied about them and five pin seems to be the answer but I haven't found a reassuring answer.\n\nIf anyone knows the answer would you please inform me?\n\",Trish,\"The ender 3 follows the USB standard for a USB-2.0/2.0 revised 5 pin USB-Mini-B.\n\nTo prove, a picture of it. Left, you can clearly count the 5 pins that conform to the standard.\n\n\n\nas a side note: There is no 8 pin USB-Mini - Mini has the T-shape. In fact, there is not even a USB standard conform plug that has 8-pins! The standard allows only 4, 5, 9, 11 and 24 pins\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n7140,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Art,2.528907649931287,4.857405463377104,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,FreeCAD to design moving parts,\"I am trying to create a mechanism with moving parts, and would like to see how it works (whether it even works) before printing it.\n\nFor example, there's a servo with a bracket, and I would like to see how far can the bracket move before colliding with other objects.\n\n\n\nUnfortunately I cannot find any information on how to set pivot points and rotate objects around these points in FreeCAD. Is this even possible?\n\",profesor79,\"freeCad has a draft rotate function in DRAFT workbench:\n\n\nSelect an object;\nPress the Draft Rotate button, then;\nClick to set the rotating point and rotate. \n\n\nYou will get used to that after a few trails.\n\nThere is a step by step guide on freeCad site.\n\nThere is also a short demo of the function here.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n7140,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Art,2.528907649931287,4.857405463377104,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,FreeCAD to design moving parts,\"I am trying to create a mechanism with moving parts, and would like to see how it works (whether it even works) before printing it.\n\nFor example, there's a servo with a bracket, and I would like to see how far can the bracket move before colliding with other objects.\n\n\n\nUnfortunately I cannot find any information on how to set pivot points and rotate objects around these points in FreeCAD. Is this even possible?\n\",metty,\"I would also like to take a look at the A2plus Workbench (Freecad Addon). There you can define constraints which can help with this problem. As far as I know, parts cannot be moved with the mouse pointer, but angle parameters can be entered.\n\nhttps://freecadweb.org/wiki/A2plus_Workbench\n\",0.0,0.0\n7163,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,PositriesElectron,3.267423727073639,3.4943961588206536,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,\"Geeetech Prusa i3 Extruder seems to push more filament, gear slips/skips?\",\"I got my first printer, a Geeetech Prusa i3, and for the price I paid (160$) I am so blown away. As I saved so much money, I treated myself to a legit copy of Simplify3D, which I am happy with.\n\nI'm using white PLA filament (supposedly 1.75 mm) with a 0.3 mm nozzle. The hotend temperature range is 215-240 °C and the bed is usually at 90 °C (with hairspray it gives a nice shiny solid bottom surface). My goal is to print with 0.3, or with 0.2 if 0.3 is to big for the nozzle (ideally a 0.3 nozzle can print 0.3 layer height).\n\nThe problem:\n\nIt seems that, especially on the first layer with bigger prints, or any layer that continuously pulls filament through the nozzle (outside lining of a layer), the amount of filament that gets \"\"printed out\"\" isn't enough compared to the amount of filament that is pushed in by the extruder gear. This, in my theory right now, causes the new filament to stay in place until the melted plastic in the nozzle is used, which then makes room again for more filament to be pushed through. Until this happens, the gear slips/clicks and can't pull anymore filament.\n\nThe mechanics seem to work well, and I don't think the nozzle is clogged. I would guess that some settings need to be manually adjusted to keep the amount of filament pushed through the nozzle equal or less than the amount the nozzle can actually push through, but what is weird to me is that this happens semi-randomly. I have searched online and the issue intermittently appears with other people, but I haven't found a solution yet.\n\nWhat settings would I need to test? \n\nHere is a link to some current successful prints and a layer mess up example(batman bust).\n\nMy biggest print so far (Batman Bust) is amazing, but even here you can see certain layers where the gear couldn't push filament through and the gear skipped a few clicks, causing it to print less when it was suppose to print on the following instructions. This happens a lot more, but when it happens during an infill you obviously can't see it from the outside. The individual layer-height seems maybe a bit too small (0.1 for batman), and the times where the extruder usually skips and clicks appear when I print bigger sizes (0.2 and 0.3). I want to start printing more complex and bigger things, so using 0.1 seems like an overkill in detail and takes way too long.\n\nEdit:\n\nMy filament is the generic Geeetech white PLA that I ordered together with the printer.\n\",0scar,\"A nozzle with a nozzle width of 0.3 mm cannot print a 0.3 mm layer height. You could do that but you should not as you ultimately pay the price in the form of a less aesthetic finish. The general rule of thumb is to maximize the layer height at 75 % of the nozzle width, so a 0.3 mm nozzle would allow for a maximum of 0.225 mm. The rationale is that the filament leaves the nozzle as a tube and needs to be flattened to make it flat and adhere to the previous layer, too high layer heights increase the pressure in the nozzle (more filament is needed) causing a less than ideal extrusion and cause the extruder to skip; this is identified by observing a distinct clicking noise.\n\nPlease lower your layer height (try 0.2 mm) and decrease the printing speed to see if this works better.\n\nFurthermore, for PLA, temperatures for the hotend (unless you have some sort of a special PLA filament) and the bed temperature are too high. Please aim to print PLA at about 200 °C with a bed temperature of 50 - 60 °C.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n7163,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,PositriesElectron,3.267423727073639,3.4943961588206536,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.082726318457765,\"Geeetech Prusa i3 Extruder seems to push more filament, gear slips/skips?\",\"I got my first printer, a Geeetech Prusa i3, and for the price I paid (160$) I am so blown away. As I saved so much money, I treated myself to a legit copy of Simplify3D, which I am happy with.\n\nI'm using white PLA filament (supposedly 1.75 mm) with a 0.3 mm nozzle. The hotend temperature range is 215-240 °C and the bed is usually at 90 °C (with hairspray it gives a nice shiny solid bottom surface). My goal is to print with 0.3, or with 0.2 if 0.3 is to big for the nozzle (ideally a 0.3 nozzle can print 0.3 layer height).\n\nThe problem:\n\nIt seems that, especially on the first layer with bigger prints, or any layer that continuously pulls filament through the nozzle (outside lining of a layer), the amount of filament that gets \"\"printed out\"\" isn't enough compared to the amount of filament that is pushed in by the extruder gear. This, in my theory right now, causes the new filament to stay in place until the melted plastic in the nozzle is used, which then makes room again for more filament to be pushed through. Until this happens, the gear slips/clicks and can't pull anymore filament.\n\nThe mechanics seem to work well, and I don't think the nozzle is clogged. I would guess that some settings need to be manually adjusted to keep the amount of filament pushed through the nozzle equal or less than the amount the nozzle can actually push through, but what is weird to me is that this happens semi-randomly. I have searched online and the issue intermittently appears with other people, but I haven't found a solution yet.\n\nWhat settings would I need to test? \n\nHere is a link to some current successful prints and a layer mess up example(batman bust).\n\nMy biggest print so far (Batman Bust) is amazing, but even here you can see certain layers where the gear couldn't push filament through and the gear skipped a few clicks, causing it to print less when it was suppose to print on the following instructions. This happens a lot more, but when it happens during an infill you obviously can't see it from the outside. The individual layer-height seems maybe a bit too small (0.1 for batman), and the times where the extruder usually skips and clicks appear when I print bigger sizes (0.2 and 0.3). I want to start printing more complex and bigger things, so using 0.1 seems like an overkill in detail and takes way too long.\n\nEdit:\n\nMy filament is the generic Geeetech white PLA that I ordered together with the printer.\n\",PositriesElectron,\"I fixed it!\n\nThe problem wasn't the temperature, it was the spring that puts the pressure on the little wheel against the gear. That was too strong, so the entry of the extruder was to tight. The gear worked fine and the settings worked well, I just had to adjust the spring a bit to carefully lower the pressure. I just printed another Golden Key and it looks perfect!\n\nThanks for all your tips on the other settings, I will experiment with tose to see if I can increase quality even more, but it seems to work perfectly now for a 160$ printer :) \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7179,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dugost,2.1782824847157594,4.009039896389174,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,TEVO Tarantula Z-Axis Lowering Too Far After Endstop Triggered,\"A z-axis homing issue is giving me an ulcer. I'm hoping someone can help with this.\n\nAs per usual, after the Z endstop is triggered on my TEVO Tarantula the gantry raises a bit then slowly lowers back down to the z=0 point established by the trigger. However, the gantry is now lowering well past the point triggered by the endstop. It's forcing the hotend to press down into the bed, and I need to reset the printer to avoid any damage.\n\nI'm at a loss to understand why, and it's making re-leveling the bed impossible. Once I have the bed leveled, an auto home grinds the hotend into the bed.\n\nI've done some cable management in the past couple of days but everything is connected where it should be. The endstops are responding, I've even manually triggered them so I know they're working, but the Z refuses to stop where it should.\n\nI've printed at least once since organizing my cables but the bed wasn't level and then I noticed this issue when homing the Z for re-leveling.\n\nFor context, I've had several projects print successfully recently so things had been working fairly well. I haven't made any changes to the Marlin software since originally setting it up months ago. I had been poking around in some settings on the unit but I'm quite sure I reverted everything I tweaked. Regardless, I can't seem to find the menu I had accessed before, and I don't think I've ever had the TEVO successfully save any customizations made via the LCD interface anyway.\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"I'm not familiar with your particular model, so this may not be directly applicable.\n\nFor many printer models, a swing thru thingiverse.com will find you a replacement z-stop switch mount that uses a threaded screw to set the z-height at which the microswitch fires. It may well be that you simply need to offset that height by a few mm to get your first layer to mate well with the print bed. \n\nHere are three examples, albeit for various models. 12488 , 1829747 ,\n 2856144\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n7179,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dugost,2.1782824847157594,4.009039896389174,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,TEVO Tarantula Z-Axis Lowering Too Far After Endstop Triggered,\"A z-axis homing issue is giving me an ulcer. I'm hoping someone can help with this.\n\nAs per usual, after the Z endstop is triggered on my TEVO Tarantula the gantry raises a bit then slowly lowers back down to the z=0 point established by the trigger. However, the gantry is now lowering well past the point triggered by the endstop. It's forcing the hotend to press down into the bed, and I need to reset the printer to avoid any damage.\n\nI'm at a loss to understand why, and it's making re-leveling the bed impossible. Once I have the bed leveled, an auto home grinds the hotend into the bed.\n\nI've done some cable management in the past couple of days but everything is connected where it should be. The endstops are responding, I've even manually triggered them so I know they're working, but the Z refuses to stop where it should.\n\nI've printed at least once since organizing my cables but the bed wasn't level and then I noticed this issue when homing the Z for re-leveling.\n\nFor context, I've had several projects print successfully recently so things had been working fairly well. I haven't made any changes to the Marlin software since originally setting it up months ago. I had been poking around in some settings on the unit but I'm quite sure I reverted everything I tweaked. Regardless, I can't seem to find the menu I had accessed before, and I don't think I've ever had the TEVO successfully save any customizations made via the LCD interface anyway.\n\",profesor79,\"The soldering in the Tevo components is very low quality as I replaced/resoldered most of the end-stops.\n\nAs the gantry goes down - please ensure that the cable is not pulled over (no contact) and there is contact on the edge of the acrylic and the end-stop, also the small acrylic switch holder could bend/slip a bit. Finally, the sensor connection to the main board could be dragged by wires that are connected to the hot-end.\n\nTo validate micro-switch behavior - lift the Z-axis (about 100mm), then set home position and manually trigger the end-stop switch. That shall lift the Z-axis, so then trigger again to see if that works. You will still have a plenty of time to stop the printer if the switch does not work.\n\nIf that works, then the reason could be in slipping edge of the black acrylic plate and the micro-switch. Also validate the mechanical connection (if there is a loosening screw (the small on the switch plate)).\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n7196,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dugost,1.726248027126092,3.4153416935671306,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,\"On my TEVO Tarantula, is there a way to test that its heater pins are working?\",\"I can no longer print anything because I get a E1 heating failed error on my TEVO Tarantula every time I try to heat the hotend. The bed heats just fine.\n\nI've removed the heating element and thermistor from the hotend. The latter works fine, the temperature rises when I pinch it with my fingers. The element doesn't appear to have any broken connections.\n\nI recently did some cable management and disconnected the element's wires from the board. After reattaching them, I was able to print a couple of things so the error has occurred since then. (They didn't turn out, btw, so maybe this was the beginning of a fault?)\n\nThe wires going to the board's E1 pins are secure. I've swapped them back and forth and reconnected them numerous times but no luck.\n\nI know the most likely problem is a faulty element but before I buy a replacement is there a way to test the heating pins themselves? Some way to test the element separate from the printer?\n\nAlso, is there a way to have the element heat using the E0 pins? I've found tutorials on how to define the heater pins in Marlin but their code references don't appear in my configuration.h file.\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"I haven't tried it, but would assume you could put a multimeter (set to VDC) onto the two connections for the heater pins and check the voltage output during what would be the heating period. If there's voltage output, your heating element would be at fault. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7610,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dugost,1.726248027126092,6.064317970295189,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,\"Getting E1 Thermal Runaway errors, even after replacing the heating element on Tevo Tarantula\",\"Earlier today I successfully completed a small print (less than 1 hour) on our Tevo Tarantula. When it came time to print the next one, I started preheating for PLA and got an \"\"E1 Thermal Runaway\"\" error. I replaced the heating element with a backup and got no error on preheat.\n\nWith an estimated 5+ hrs printing time, the print got about 1 hour in before it quit with another \"\"E1 Thermal Runaway\"\" error. This is with a brand new heating element, the third in about as many months, and I don't do much printing at all.\n\nIs this normal for the elements to be so shoddy or are there settings I need to be changing? I still have the first 2 elements that I thought had died but maybe that's not the issue at all so I'll hang onto them in case I'm overlooking some code to change in Marlin.\n\nI've tried connecting and reconnecting both the wires for the heating element and for the thermistor. I've tightened and loosened the screw holding the thermistor in the heating block. While it did heat up momentarily, the error popped up again after less than a minute:\n\n23:40:57.529 : echo:DEBUG:INFO,ERRORS\n23:41:04.974 : PID Autotune start\n23:41:37.274 : Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0\n23:41:37.274 : Error:Printer halted. kill() called!\n\n\nHow can I find out what is wrong?\n\",Valmond,\"@Trish gives a lot of good info, but:\n\nI don't think your heating element is the problem, I think the thermistor is, or a flaky connection between it and your board.\n\nThe termistor senses the temperature of your heater (you also have one on a heat bed), and tells the electronics when to heat, and when it's hot enough. Now imagine if the sensor is broken or the cable gets loose: the electronics will think it's too cold and just heat forever.\n\nThis causes a fire hasard, so most electronics doesn't let the heater go full out for too long time, and ends it all with a \"\"Thermal Runaway\"\" if it happens.\n\nSo check that your temp is read correctly, even when you move the cables, and if that isn't it, buy a pack of thermistors (or what's compatible with your printer).\n\nGood luck!\n\nSource: been there done that :-)\n\",0.0,0.0\n7610,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dugost,1.726248027126092,6.064317970295189,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,\"Getting E1 Thermal Runaway errors, even after replacing the heating element on Tevo Tarantula\",\"Earlier today I successfully completed a small print (less than 1 hour) on our Tevo Tarantula. When it came time to print the next one, I started preheating for PLA and got an \"\"E1 Thermal Runaway\"\" error. I replaced the heating element with a backup and got no error on preheat.\n\nWith an estimated 5+ hrs printing time, the print got about 1 hour in before it quit with another \"\"E1 Thermal Runaway\"\" error. This is with a brand new heating element, the third in about as many months, and I don't do much printing at all.\n\nIs this normal for the elements to be so shoddy or are there settings I need to be changing? I still have the first 2 elements that I thought had died but maybe that's not the issue at all so I'll hang onto them in case I'm overlooking some code to change in Marlin.\n\nI've tried connecting and reconnecting both the wires for the heating element and for the thermistor. I've tightened and loosened the screw holding the thermistor in the heating block. While it did heat up momentarily, the error popped up again after less than a minute:\n\n23:40:57.529 : echo:DEBUG:INFO,ERRORS\n23:41:04.974 : PID Autotune start\n23:41:37.274 : Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0\n23:41:37.274 : Error:Printer halted. kill() called!\n\n\nHow can I find out what is wrong?\n\",Trish,\"1 PID Tune\n\nChanging the thermosensor or the heater cartridge is a big change in the system: each of these items has internal errors differing them from each other item. If your thermosensor has a different standard resistance by a small way than the one before, if the resistance of the cartridge is different, then the chip gets readings it does not expect. This is why a change of either of these components (or to a different heater block size/material for the matter) one should run a PID tune, teaching the chip how the new sensor/cartridge behave.\n\nTo do this, connect to your Printer via an USB Cable and run a software that can send raw gcode. I prefer Repetier Host, but other software also works. I like to follow the instructions of the e3D v6 assembly manual, but the video by Tom (Thomas Sanladererer) and the RepRap Wiki have excellent explanations too.\n\n\nSend M303 E0 S200 C8\nwait for finishing\nsend M301 with the values you just got returned. One example might read M301 P17.28 I0.63 D118.87\nsent M500 to update your EEPROM\n\n\n\n\nIf this doesn't help, we might have a bigger problem, so let's go troubleshooting! Hardware first, then Firmware.\n\nA few useful hints that Thomas Sanladerer found when he was checking his printers for fire hazards:\n\n\nA shorted out thermosensor (closed loop, 0-Resistance) triggers Maxtemp\nA burnt out thermosensor (open loop) triggers Mintemp\nA non-connected or burnt out (open loop) Cartridge triggers thermal runaway, as does any other error with the cartridge that leads to abnormal heating.\n\n\n2 Check the Hardware\n\nHardware can fail, we all know that. But luckily there are only 5 items involved that could fail:\n\n2.1 Check all connections\n\nIf the heater cartridge is not connected properly, that will result in a Thermal Runaway Error, as the thermosensor does not detect any change.\n\nA non connected thermosensor will trigger a mintemp error, a shorted thermosensor will trigger maxtemp error.\n\n2.2 Check the resistance of the heater cartridge\n\nA broken heater cartridge can have two results: either it conducts no electricity at all (for example if a lead is broken), or it acts as a jumper and has no resistance at all. To check this, use a multimeter and measure the resistance in Ohm by connecting it to the leads of the cartridge while it is dismounted. A broken circuit in the cartridge triggers Thermal Runaway, a shorted out cartridge can break the board in worst case. A pictoral guide for analogue Multimeters.\n\nMy e3D light6 in my 12 V TronXY has a resistance of about 5.2 Ω. The Value you will get depends on what kind of heater cartridge you use. For reference: e3D Heater Cartridges are documented to be around 4.8 Ω for 12 V & 30 W, 3.6 Ω for 12 V & 40 W, 19.2 Ω for 24 V 30 W and 14.4 Ω for 24 V 40 W.\n\nIf your Value is given as infinite or near 0 Ω, your heater cartridge is broken - Though having 3 defect heater cartridges seems unlikely on first glance, unless something shortens their lifespan considerably.\n\n2.3 Check your supply voltage\n\nNow comes a thing that can be dangerous for you will measure a live circuit. Be aware that you are working with live current when you do this. Do NOT bring your fingers into contact with unshielded wires!\n\nSet your Multimeter to check the Voltage. Connect the test probes to the output of the power supply that runs into the board. Power up the voltage supply. It should read close to 12 or 24V, depending on your machine.\n\n2.4 Check the voltage given by the board\n\nAgain, this is measuring live current and can be dangerous. Use maximum care not to fry yourself!\n\nIf your Power supply is working, then it might be the board that is not allowing the current to get the heater cartridge. So we need to measure if it gets power. Since I=U/R, and we have established that R is not 0 or infinity (see above), we can establish if there is I by simply measuring U, which is the voltage.\n\nMount the tips of your multimeter into the clamps that should take the leads for the heater cartridge and set it to measure the Voltage. Make sure they have contact. Connect the machine to power and start it up. Order it to heat up the cartridge. It should show a voltage that is similar to your supply voltage (12/24V).\n\n2.5 Thermosensor\n\nThe Thermosensor might trigger an error if it is faulty but not entirely broken. A broken thermosensor should trigger MINTEMP for a broken open and MAXTEMP for a shorted out sensor. The only way to test this would be to measure it against items of known temperature, for example using the bed sensor as Benchmark.\n\n3 Check the Firmware\n\n3.1 Thermosensor settings\n\nIn some cases, the temperature tables of the thermosensors are not compatible and one has to change the settings for that in the firmware. One of the best rundowns I know is in the e3D light6/v6 firmware manual, if you need more help than this.\n\nIn the Marlin 1.9 you do this in Configuation.h, under the header Thermal Settings. In my Ender 3 this is done in line 289:\n\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5\n\n\nThat means, that my temperature sensor 0 (the one in the hotend) is of type 5, where type 5 is defined in the block above. The relevant line 256 of my file reads:\n\n * 5 : 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (4.7k pullup)\n\n\nThe most common choice in Chinese hotends to use this very 4.7-kiloohm pullup thermistor table, and the actual specific table for most of these is reasonably close to the 5. Other thermosensors can be reasonably overlapping, but in case you change the style of thermosensor, it is generally advised to change this value accordingly1. Always run a PID tuning after changing the thermosensor table!\n\n3.2 Thermal Runaway Protection\n\nThe settings for the Thermal Runaway Protection might be worth a look. Maybe it is a little trigger happy? Configuration_adv.h contains a block titled Thermal Settings, containing when to trigger the emergency shutdown. For my Ender3 it reads like this:\n\n#if ENABLED(THERMAL_PROTECTION_HOTENDS)\n #define THERMAL_PROTECTION_PERIOD 40 // Seconds\n #define THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS 4 // Degrees Celsius\n\n\nFrom your error log, I guess that your printer has the second line as 30 seconds. It would be technically safe to increase this time to up to 120 seconds, but I strongly suggest not to go over 60 seconds.\n\n1 - I had switched the whole hotend on my TronXY X1 for an e3D light6, and it only needed a PID tune, but in theory I should have also swapped the Firmware to reflect that - but, as said, luckily many Chinese printers use the table 5 even if they are not using the sensor. Table 5 was made for the thermosensors used by e3D.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7188,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,clem,2.528907649931287,4.848287887940097,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Extruder drive cog slipping on filament,\"I've been printing PLA on a Pegasus 12\"\" for 2 years. Print quality has been great but in the last few months the quality of the prints has deteriorated. After looking into it, it seems when the head moves away from the spool and puts the filament in tension (and pulls on the spool) the extruder cog slips on the filament. \nThat results in traces where no plastic gets extruded the furthest away the head moves from the spool (the spool is on the left in the picture below):\n\n\n\nThe cog slipping can be seen between 0:22 and 0:27 on the video below: the cog on the right spins continuously but the ball bearing on the left stops spinning for 5 seconds.\nhttps://photos.app.goo.gl/cTfySUgXDy1XKXGv8\n\nThe end result is a part with multiple gaps, especially on the side farthest away from the spool.\n\n\n\nI've cleaned the teeth of the cog (removed plastic dust) to improve traction but that didn't solve the problem. I've also tried to clean up the extruder by inserting a wire from the hot end side, no improvement in print quality.\n\nAny ideas on how to fix that slipping problem?\n\nEdit with solution:\n\nTo complement Oscar's answer below, here is what I've done that fixed the problem: it turns out the issue was coming from a lack of friction on the filament. To increase the friction, I've slipped a pair of 0.25mm thick pieces of plastic sheet between the bearing axis and the mount. See pic below.\n\n\n\nThat increased the force on the filament enough to fully solve the slippage problem. The print quality is perfect now (see pic below).\n\n\n\nThe plastic sheet trick is just a short term fix. I'm going to try swapping the drive gear for a slightly thicker one and contact MakerFarm to see if there is any long term modification they recommend.\n\",0scar,\"These symptoms are generally caused by friction in the extrusion path.\n\nFirst, you should make sure the spool of filament can unspool freely.\n\nSecond, in order to prevent slipping of the filament, you should consider increasing the force of the roller bearing onto the filament and extruder wheel, or increase hotend temperature. A (partial) clog can also be causing this. You could try a \"\"cold pull\"\" or \"\"atomic pull\"\" where you heat up the filament to print level, push a little through by hand and let the nozzle cool to about 60 % of the printing temp and then steadily pull the filament out of the hotend, this should remove all gunk inside, repeat if necessary. A too low of a layer height can also put the filament extrusion under pressure.\n\n\n\nAs an aside, slipping of filament is often accompanied by an audible clicking noise. There are a few questions on this topic.\n\nIt also looks as though your bed is not centered in the middle as you are printing outside the bed limits in the front and have a little room left at the back!\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n7188,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,clem,2.528907649931287,4.848287887940097,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Extruder drive cog slipping on filament,\"I've been printing PLA on a Pegasus 12\"\" for 2 years. Print quality has been great but in the last few months the quality of the prints has deteriorated. After looking into it, it seems when the head moves away from the spool and puts the filament in tension (and pulls on the spool) the extruder cog slips on the filament. \nThat results in traces where no plastic gets extruded the furthest away the head moves from the spool (the spool is on the left in the picture below):\n\n\n\nThe cog slipping can be seen between 0:22 and 0:27 on the video below: the cog on the right spins continuously but the ball bearing on the left stops spinning for 5 seconds.\nhttps://photos.app.goo.gl/cTfySUgXDy1XKXGv8\n\nThe end result is a part with multiple gaps, especially on the side farthest away from the spool.\n\n\n\nI've cleaned the teeth of the cog (removed plastic dust) to improve traction but that didn't solve the problem. I've also tried to clean up the extruder by inserting a wire from the hot end side, no improvement in print quality.\n\nAny ideas on how to fix that slipping problem?\n\nEdit with solution:\n\nTo complement Oscar's answer below, here is what I've done that fixed the problem: it turns out the issue was coming from a lack of friction on the filament. To increase the friction, I've slipped a pair of 0.25mm thick pieces of plastic sheet between the bearing axis and the mount. See pic below.\n\n\n\nThat increased the force on the filament enough to fully solve the slippage problem. The print quality is perfect now (see pic below).\n\n\n\nThe plastic sheet trick is just a short term fix. I'm going to try swapping the drive gear for a slightly thicker one and contact MakerFarm to see if there is any long term modification they recommend.\n\",Steve In CO,\"In addition to the answers from 0scar, you might check your hot end temp. I was having a similar problem with slippage and prints that would literally fall apart in my hand even if they looked ok. \n\nIt turned out that the filament I was using which claimed to be PLA actually wanted a much hotter temperature than most PLA. Once I bumped it up to around 216-218 °C the slippage stopped and the prints came out beautiful. Might be a possibility if this is a new filament for you.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7191,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user1700890,2.1782824847157594,3.58733573019168,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,3d print aluminum valve cover for car,\"I am interested in 3d printing from aluminum valve cover for car SAAB valve cover\n\nI am thinking of creating 3d scan and the placing order with i.materialize or similar online services. \n\nI am curios if this is feasible at all, since I am interested in 3d printing functional part not just a souvenir. Also since 3d part does not have smooth surface, will sand blasting help without affecting dimensions?\n\nAlso what would be an approximate cost of 3d scanning and printing?\n\nI really do not know where to start and would appreciate any directions. \n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"This is a very large part. My estimate for the cost would be a few thousand to get this printed in metal, if not tens of thousands (assuming it even fits the maximum build volume of the printer, which is only 440mm on its longest axis).\n\n3D scanning also isn't a very reliable way to reproduce parts, especially for something mechanical that needs to be precise. You can not just scan something and then print it like making a photocopy. A lot of manual design and reverse engineering work would be involved.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n7194,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Crazymoomin,3.267423727073639,4.318368518938144,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Using heat-set inserts with SLA printed part,\"I have an SLA printed part I want to put a brass threaded insert in using a soldering iron. The insert is slightly larger than the hole so I would assume the edge will melt and re-freeze around the teeth. Are there any issues with melting SLA or this idea in general? \n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The plastic used in SLA printing is what is known as a thermoset plastic, as opposed to the thermoplastic plastics used in FDM printing. What this means, is that it can not be melted. The reaction that hardens SLA materials is irreversible. If you heat up the plastic it won't melt, it will just burn (if it gets hot enough). What you're planning is a bad idea, and it won't work.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n7201,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Brian Wilson,1.726248027126092,4.204944762672519,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Inconsistent filament flow on anet a8,\"My Anet A8 was working and printing great until my hotbed connector snapped and shorted out my motherboard. After replacing the connections to my hotbed and my motherboard I can't print anything because the filament flow is very inconsistent. It often laying down nothing. See my included picture. \n\nI've tried a bunch of suggested calibration settings but none of them worked:\n\n\nincreased extruder temp, \ndecreased speed, \nincreased flow, \n\n\nAny ideas or thoughts would be great. \n\n\n\",0scar,\"Please note that the problems you faced are typical for the Anet A8, the connectors are underrated for the application. Also, do note that the stock firmware does not have thermal runaway protection, which is considered to be very unsafe and could potentially lead to burning down your house! Please flash a firmware that supports thermal runaway protection, like e.g. Marlin Firmware.\n\n\n\nBasically you just tried to change some parameters to see if they have an effect. This is generally a good idea to get an idea of the problem, but a more technical approach would be to start from the beginning and exclude things you have tested. As for now you cannot conclude why the print looks as shown in the image, e.g. it also looks as if the nozzle to bed distance is too large.\n\nThe question remains if your 3D printer board did survive the shorting of the hotbed leads!\n\nTo troubleshoot this particular problem it is advised to check whether the extrusion process still does what it is asked to do. Disconnecting the hotend from the extruder and measuring how much filament is extruded would be the first thing to check. Please look into How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer?. It seems odd that the extrusion is off if the firmware has not changed, or alternative settings stored, but to be sure it would be the first thing to check. From this exercise you'll learn whether the firmware is set correctly and the extruder working properly. It can still be that the extruder gear slips, e.g. because the filament does not have a lot of friction when disconnected from the hotend.\n\nWhen the extrusion process works and the commanded length is extruded, you can update the question with what you have done. After this, and if the problem persists, you can look into nozzle clogging and filament resistance for instance.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7201,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Brian Wilson,1.726248027126092,4.204944762672519,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Inconsistent filament flow on anet a8,\"My Anet A8 was working and printing great until my hotbed connector snapped and shorted out my motherboard. After replacing the connections to my hotbed and my motherboard I can't print anything because the filament flow is very inconsistent. It often laying down nothing. See my included picture. \n\nI've tried a bunch of suggested calibration settings but none of them worked:\n\n\nincreased extruder temp, \ndecreased speed, \nincreased flow, \n\n\nAny ideas or thoughts would be great. \n\n\n\",Brian Wilson,\"Thanks everyone for the tips. I posted this question on another board and it was suggested my extruder was clogged. After unclogging everything works great again. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7202,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Qwertie,2.528907649931287,3.601668775190381,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,What is wrong with my first layers?,\"I just assembled a Prusa i3 MK3 and went through the calibration process, but when I print the first layer doesn't look good and my prints come unstuck from the bed. I think it might be Z height but this was as high as I could put the probe without the paper moving on the calibration test. The layers after the first few look good but then the print either warps or comes unstuck and moves.\n\n\n\n\",0scar,\"Judging by the images you posted in your question, the first layer distance is too far away from the bed for the current filament flow.\n\nThis could either be related to:\n\n\nhaving an offset on the first layer like a height correction in the slicer,\nan incorrectly levelled (read height adjusted) bed, (you did the paper test correctly, so this is probably not your problem, it is mentioned for completeness)\nunder-extrusion\n\n\nslicer setting not correct, e.g. filament diameter or flow modifier not 100 %\nincorrectly calibrated extruder\n\n\n\nYour most likely problem is under-extrusion. It would be advised to calibrate the extruder: How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer? and check the slicer settings.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n7202,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Qwertie,2.528907649931287,3.601668775190381,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,What is wrong with my first layers?,\"I just assembled a Prusa i3 MK3 and went through the calibration process, but when I print the first layer doesn't look good and my prints come unstuck from the bed. I think it might be Z height but this was as high as I could put the probe without the paper moving on the calibration test. The layers after the first few look good but then the print either warps or comes unstuck and moves.\n\n\n\n\",Qwertie,\"I used the live-z adjustment feature and set it to +0.150 and now my prints look much better.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7315,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Qwertie,2.8153892694839717,4.75237970929914,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,Is it ok for stepper motors to be hot?,\"I have been running my i3 MK3 for about 12 hours now and the motor on the extruder is fairly hot, not too hot to touch but I'd guess its about 60c on the outside. Is this within normal operating temperatures or should I let it cool down before starting more prints?\n\",cmm,\"I've run my Prusa3D i3m3s for 50 hour prints. My motors get hot-ish but on my instance of the machine, they are not too hot.\n\",0.0,0.0\n7315,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Qwertie,2.8153892694839717,4.75237970929914,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,Is it ok for stepper motors to be hot?,\"I have been running my i3 MK3 for about 12 hours now and the motor on the extruder is fairly hot, not too hot to touch but I'd guess its about 60c on the outside. Is this within normal operating temperatures or should I let it cool down before starting more prints?\n\",0scar,\"The maximum operating temperature can be found in the specifications of your steppers. Usually the ambient temperature operating conditions are limited to 50 °C with a maximum operating temperature in the range of 70 - 100 °C. For instance, the steppers I use are limited to a temperature of 80 °C. It is however advised to keep this temperature lower, e.g. to max. 60 °C to prolong the life. Do note that very high temperatures could be a problem for \"\"self-printed\"\" stepper mounts of the wrong material (materials with a low glass transition temperature).\n\nTo answer your question: \"\"Yes, steppers may get hot, but if you want them to get too hot is up to the mounting system and how long you want to use them.\"\"\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n7458,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Qwertie,2.528907649931287,5.020345661736651,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.6553159206313057,Getting worse quality prints on 0.05 mm than on 0.10 mm layer height on Prusa i3 MK3,\"I have a new Prusa i3 MK3 and I have noticed that my prints consistently turn out worse on 0.05 mm layer heights than on 0.10 mm. The edges of the 0.05 mm prints turn out rough and sometimes stringy.\n\n\n\nSeems similar to a retraction problem but I never have this issue on 0.10 mm prints with the same retraction settings. \n\nWhat might be causing this issue?\n\",0scar,\"When printing at small layer heights (high resolution), you probably need to do some test prints first to see if your normal settings work for the lower layer height. You are most probably experiencing an increased pressure build-up in the nozzle due to the nozzle being closer to the bed. A test that might be useful for you is spacing several objects at different distances to see if the retraction, which you already suspect, may be not working optimally or that the nozzle leaks/oozes an excess amount of filament due to pressure build-up. This shows an example of such a test where the nozzle shows oozing.\n\n\n\nTuning the extruder to alleviate the pressure could be:\n\n\nan increased retraction length, and/or \nretraction speed, or \nlooking into the option called coasting where you stop extruding before the printer reaches the end of the deposition path while it still prints material caused by the pressure build-up.\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWhen printing at 0.05 mm on my home-build CoreXY I experience much smoother prints opposed to printing in higher layer heights (less resolution), but I also get some very fine stringing, noticeable when printing multiple objects or objects with voids. \n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n7458,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Qwertie,2.528907649931287,5.020345661736651,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.6553159206313057,Getting worse quality prints on 0.05 mm than on 0.10 mm layer height on Prusa i3 MK3,\"I have a new Prusa i3 MK3 and I have noticed that my prints consistently turn out worse on 0.05 mm layer heights than on 0.10 mm. The edges of the 0.05 mm prints turn out rough and sometimes stringy.\n\n\n\nSeems similar to a retraction problem but I never have this issue on 0.10 mm prints with the same retraction settings. \n\nWhat might be causing this issue?\n\",Lux Claridge,\"One thing that I have learned in my extensive youtubing is that sometimes the hot end can soften the previous layers. Though, take the following advice with a grain of salt as the following is just conceptual for me (I'm still waiting for my first printer to arrive to follow this advice).\n\nTomb of 3D Printed Horrors has a pretty good video on printing D&D miniatures that require high detail at small sizes (particularly at the 2 minute mark). His recommendation is to have 0.2 mm thick lines as thinner lines are more susceptible melting when the hot end is laying down subsequent layers. Thicker layers means more plastic to absorb the heat and less deformity. This is probably why your 0.1 mm lines look better than your 0.05 mm lines.\n\nAnother fix is to keep print speeds somewhat normal or slightly slow. A faster print head heats the previous layers less and can counteract the issue. Running at 60 mm/s may be too quick for quality prints, but running at 10 mm/s is too slow and can reheat the lower layers. Keeping an \"\"average\"\" pace paired with thick enough lines could help you get the prints you want. Though, finding what speeds/thickness is up to you. I don't have the experience to suggest any at the moment.\n\",0.0,0.0\n7221,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,VAAA,2.528907649931287,3.247326609336232,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,How to correctly print an object with supports,\"I'm trying to print the following model in my Prusa printer using its Slic3r PE software.\n\nFerment Air Lock\n\n\n\nIn the comments of the model it says that the way to print is the with the filler opener downside to the printing board.\n\nThis is how I have it in Slic3r:\n\n\n\nWhen I print it I get this horrible form and I have to stop in order to avoid waste of material.\n\n\n\nWhen I look in the layers tab and then scroll up to see layer workflow I can see this:\n\n\n\nSo that means is trying to print like in the \"\"air\"\" something without any support.\n\nAny clue how to print this? I'm kind of new to 3d printing.\n\",0scar,\"You need to put a check mark to enable supports in Slic3r as you cannot print in mid-air.\n\nThis option is found under \"\"Print settings\"\" with header name \"\"Support settings\"\". Please look at the Slic3r manual for more options.\n\n\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n7226,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tim,2.528907649931287,3.5800550457398437,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Makerbot Smart extruder+ heat block and nozzle question,\"I am looking for information on the smart extruder+ heat block and nozzle? I have looked online and from several forums come to the conclusion it is either a MK10 or MK11 assembly. Can anyone shed some details on the heat block and nozzles. \n\",Samveen,\"Caveat emptor: This answer is probably not what you're expecting.\n\nAs far as I can make out after looking at this un-jamming video on YouTube, where at time 00:01:24, the video shows a label that needs to be cut to open up the extruder. However, as mentioned at the end of the same video, cutting that label will void Makerbot's warranty cover on the extruder.\n\nFrom that, I can make out that Makerbot will actively discourage any efforts to disseminate the kind of information you're looking for, at least until the product is discontinued. That would usually include a DMCA takedown notice to Google to remove search engine results, as well as similar takedown notices to other places where such information is hosted. I expect you will not find such information easily.\n\",0.0,0.0\n7264,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Matthew Goulart,2.8153892694839717,6.228122002579435,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.6229190288168605,How to set the Z home offset,\"I have what I thought would be a simple question.\n\nI don't have an auto leveling probe, I do my leveling manually with 4 screws and a piece of paper (I measured the thickness to 0.1 mm).\n\nFor the longest time I would have trouble with the first layer, sometimes having to give the bed screws a quarter turn to bring the bed up a bit. I would see that the nozzle seemed quite far away from the bed. This went on for the longest time and I just chalked it up to the quality of my printer.\n\nI realized recently that when I level the bed, I am inserting a piece of paper in between the nozzle and the bed. Obviously, I should be taking the thickness into account as a 0.1mm thick piece of paper accounts for 50 % higher than the nozzle should be for a 0.2 mm first layer height.\n\nMy question is, how do I set (either in Cura or directly in Marlin config) the z home offset to account for the 0.1 mm thickness of my calibration paper?\n\",0scar,\"It is preferred to get the distance correct by hardware changes (leveling screws). But it is possible to do it with software. You can not only change the Z offset in the slicer or in the configuration of Marlin, but also with G-code commands. \n\nThe \"\"paper drag\"\" method is perfect for determining the correct Z level. Once you leveled with the paper, you do not need to create an offset to account for the paper thickness, however, there are purists that do that. So basically, what we call Z=0 is in fact Z=\"\"paper thickness\"\", unless you are a purist. But a slightly larger gap makes printing much easier. Too small heights cause e.g. rippling effects or too much pressure build-up in the nozzle. In order to change your offset after leveling, you could try one of the following methods. This is sometimes a useful method for creating a little extra offset for printing PETG, but personally I do not do that.\n\nIn Ultimaker Cura:\nOpen the plugin manager (\"\"Toolbox\"\"->\"\"Browse packages...\"\") and install \"\"Z Offset Setting\"\", a new parameter will be available in the \"\"Build Plate Adhesion\"\" settings menu called \"\"Z Offset\"\". (See also this older, not up-to-date answer)\n\nIn Marlin configuration file, modify the MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS constant:\n\n//#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0\n\n\nIn G-code:\n\nBy adding the following lines to your start G-code (see e.g. this answer) using the G92 G-code command:\n\nG0 Z0.2 ; Move the head to 0.2 mm (so now 0.3 on your machine)\nG92 Z0 ; Call this Z = 0\n\n\nor when you are able to connect to the printer over USB using a printer terminal (e.g. Pronterface, Repetier or OctoPrint) using the M206 G-code command:\n\nM206 Z-0.2 ; Will raise the Z height by 0.2 mm\nM500 ; Stores the offset in memory\n\n\nAlternatively, when you cannot connect through a terminal, putting the last 2 lines in a text file and saving that as a .gcode file on an SD card and \"\"printing\"\" the file will also store the new offset (if M500 is enabled in the configuration file: #define EEPROM_SETTINGS // Enable for M500 and M501 commands)\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n7264,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Matthew Goulart,2.8153892694839717,6.228122002579435,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.6229190288168605,How to set the Z home offset,\"I have what I thought would be a simple question.\n\nI don't have an auto leveling probe, I do my leveling manually with 4 screws and a piece of paper (I measured the thickness to 0.1 mm).\n\nFor the longest time I would have trouble with the first layer, sometimes having to give the bed screws a quarter turn to bring the bed up a bit. I would see that the nozzle seemed quite far away from the bed. This went on for the longest time and I just chalked it up to the quality of my printer.\n\nI realized recently that when I level the bed, I am inserting a piece of paper in between the nozzle and the bed. Obviously, I should be taking the thickness into account as a 0.1mm thick piece of paper accounts for 50 % higher than the nozzle should be for a 0.2 mm first layer height.\n\nMy question is, how do I set (either in Cura or directly in Marlin config) the z home offset to account for the 0.1 mm thickness of my calibration paper?\n\",Tifn,\"Based on Oscar's solution using M206, I found it convenient to add in my MicroSD card a hierarchy of such gcode files to set the Z offset to every possible value in some range. For example, \"\"printing\"\" the file z_offset/1mm/1mm2/1mm275.gcode will set (permanently) the Z offset to 1.275 millimeters.\n\nThis hack is a workaround to the lack of Z offset setting in the printer's menu, and is an alternative to \"\"hardware\"\" Z tuning by moving the endstop. It can be useful when using different build plates with varying thickness, or attaching a pen or any other tool to the print head.\n\nHere is a simple bash script which creates the files taking the MicroSD card location as argument:\n\n#!/bin/bash -e\n\nmkdir $1/z_offset\n\nfor i in {9..0}\ndo\n mkdir $1/z_offset/\"\"$i\"\"mm\n for j in {9..0}\n do\n mkdir $1/z_offset/\"\"$i\"\"mm/\"\"$i\"\"mm\"\"$j\"\"\n for d in 00 25 50 75\n do\n echo -e \\\n M206 Z-$i.$j$d\\\\nM500\\\\nM117 Z-offset=\"\"$i\"\".\"\"$j$d\"\"mm \\\n >$1/z_offset/\"\"$i\"\"mm/\"\"$i\"\"mm\"\"$j\"\"/\"\"$i\"\"mm\"\"$j$d\"\".gcode\n done\n done\ndone\n\n\nI chose a 0.025mm resolution, as 0.1mm is slightly to coarse to adjust for first layer issues. Tested successfully on a Creality Ender 3 printer (which seems to have a 0.015mm resolution on the Z-axis).\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7268,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,blacklotus357,2.1782824847157594,4.775735154698014,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Monoprice maker select v2 doesn't extrude but is not clogged,\"So I have been printing lately, and got a new spool of filament. It will extrude when I pre-heat the nozzle and manually extrude it, however when I start to print, it doesn't extrude any filament. Sometimes it works with different filament, but not always. How can I fix this?\n\",user77232,\"\nTry advancing the extruder manually using the control interface. Extrude about 10 cm of filament to verify that everything is OK with the machine.\nIs the filament curling on the way out of the nozzle? If so then there may really be a clog and you should clean it. Invest in some cleaning filament as well.\nThe idler bearing may not be pushing down on the filament tightly enough. Check that the spring which holds it in place has not become soft or broken.\nThe drive gear could be dirty. Plastic particle build up on the gear will cause it to slip. Clean the drive gear to remove all plastic build up.\n\n\nOutside of this you could have a mechanical problem with extruder. Advance the motor using the control system (without filament installed) to verify that it is working properly.\n\",0.0,0.0\n7281,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,AlonMln,3.267423727073639,4.068914375111186,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.929104701733314,4.410384278773418,PTFE pulled into extruder gears,\"I have a Tevo Tarantula, the problem is that PTFE is getting pulled back to the extruder gears and stopping filament extrusion, do you know how to solve this?\n\nImage:\n\n\n\nOne hypothesis I have is that there is a cooling problem in the hot end while a retraction is made, causing the extruder motor to pull the PTFE in it. \n\nSuggestions appreciated!\n\",Gui Herzog,\"You are probably right, I have a Tarantula as well, and this happened many times to me. The reason is mostly because the hotend fan gets too hot, stops working, then, the filament in the aluminium heat sink melts and sticks the filament inside the PTFE tube. Then, on the retraction, the PTFE is pulled into the gears just like on your picture. Also, the filament stops getting extruded a few moments later.\n\nOne solution for that was to buy a new PTFE tube with a pneumatic connector that doesn't allow it to slide into the gears. However, the diameter of the screw thread (of the one that I bought) was too large, so I had to design a new static block for the extruder to fit it. \n\nI chose this type of 1mm PTFE teflon tubing from aliexpress for my replacement.\n\nMaybe you can find a pneumatic connector with the proper diameter.\n\nHowever the real solution is to check why the heat sink is getting too hot. I bought a few other fans and printed an additional support for them on the hotend and I am making sure the fan stays on all the time.\n\nI hope it helps!\n\",3.367452517504837,2.0769199823829045\n7305,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BPinto,1.726248027126092,4.469588210980069,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Safe way of disposing resin,\"I have some leftover resin (100 ml) that I`m not planing to use anymore. What is a safe way of disposing it that doesn't involve curing?\n\",Trish,\"Resin is notoriously hard to handle, especially as exposure to air and light can and will cure it over time. The uncured resin is a hazardous material.\n\nHandling hazardous waste\n\nThe rules for safe disposal can - generally speaking - be broken down to this:\n\n\nmake sure the hazardous material can't contaminate water or food sources\nmake sure the hazardous material won't be touched or ingested accidentally\n\n\nThis means (for example for acids) that they are neutralized (to pH 7) and then handled as chemical waste.\n\nWHY?\n\nWhy go all these lengths? Let me explain with an example from Germany: The city of Leverkusen is the main site of Bayer. They produce pharmaceutical and chemical products there, which includes a lot of chemical and hazardous waste. Bayer knows how to handle waste, they handled 541000 metric tons globally in 2015. Most of the following information comes from Germany, and is in German, but I do provide my sources.\n\nFor the remains of pharmaceutical product production at Bayer in Leverkusen around 2007, the process, as I was told on a tour to the fabrication plant, was generally speaking this: The nasty stuff got neutralized and reacted in ways to make it inert, the resulting sludge got dried and incinerated to destroy most toxic compounds. The remains were bagged in thick plastic bags that were carefully stored with a catalogue of what was stored where in a dedicated chemical waste landfill with (iirc) 3 independent groundwater protection systems, covered with a thick plastic sheet, then with a several meters thick cover of carefully constructed layers of dirt, clay, cement, more plastic, gravel, and rock to protect the rhine and the ground-water. Today, this process is done by the Currenta in a similar way.\n\nIn the past, the landfills were less secure: the old landfill that was started by Bayer in 1923 in Leverkusen. It was used by Bayer, the local population and (for some time) the IG Farben. It was finally closed in 1965, contains 65000000 tons of waste, of which approximately 15% is residues of chemical processing (~1 million tons). Nobody ever cataloged what had been stored where in these times, one just knew that it was filled south to north. It had to be pretty much re-engineered in the 1990s and brought it to match the (then) current landfill standard, for example with a 38m deep cement wall: Checks had found that nobody knew anymore where what materials were stored and that residues - among them possibly LOST - had found their way to the surface. These chemicals threatened to get into the Rhine and the water supply at some point. It also lead to a case of public domain and following demolition (for public health concerns) of a group of houses that had been erected on one part of the closed landfill.\n\nYou see the length people go to keep you safe from chemical waste: LONG.\n\nNow, how do we fix the problem at hand both safely and effectively?\n\nGetting rid of small batches of resin\n\nThe basic rules of handling hazardous waste (the two bulletin points) tell us we should take a two-step process:\n\n\nfind a temporary storage solution (e.g. storing in a safe container)\ndecide on a process that can get rid of the stuff in a safe way.\n\n\nHow could one fulfill the target number 2? I came up with three options:\n\n\nre-cycle the unused resin from the print-tub back into the resin for later prints of the same color/resin.\nfind a specialist to take care of the uncured waste ( => give it to the waste disposal center in a clearly marked container)\nmake the material non-hazardous and allow disposal through the home-waste ( => curing)\n\n\nYour local waste disposal service might charge a fee for taking care of your resin, but your problems end when you hand it over with old paints or other chemical waste. Check out who provides these services and what laws, rules and regulations apply for small batches of resin and paints.\n\nA different kind of specialist that would take the resin could be a maker or artist that plans to use it in their own SLA/DLP printer.\n\nMaking it inert could be done by curing with only sunlight, without the need of much special equipment or chemicals in a very well ventilated area and make sure nobody touches it: pour the resin into a (disposable) mold like a cardboard box or yogurt cup. If you can't have a well-ventilated place, storing the resin in sealed transparent glass jars (marmalade glasses) in sunlight can cure the resin very slowly over time.\nThe resulting resin chunk can be handled like any plastic block once thoroughly hardened through: Use it for other projects, as a paperweight or dispose of it through the normal waste.\n\ntl:dr;\n\n\nUntil you have chosen a method to get rid of your resin, keep hold of it in a sealed container.\nYou might find a local maker or artist that would like your resin.\nThe best way to get rid of resin wastes without curing it yourself is handing it to a professional waste disposal service. Check your local laws, code and regulations about it.\nCuring it allows disposal through the normal garbage cycle.\n\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n7308,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dr. Jason Amerson,1.0891412423578797,2.7425302054574083,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,CTC Formaker Air Printing,\"I have a CTC Formaker 4 in 1 3D Printer. It has worked great for a long while but now it is messing up. It will print fine for awhile and then the filament will stop coming out but the printer keeps moving like it thinks it is still printing. If I clear the print job and start over, it again prints fine at first but then I get the same end results. Please help me fix this problem. I have not been able to find a solution on Google. Also I am using the latest version of MatterControl.\n\",user77232,\"This sounds like a clogged nozzle. Try driving the filament into the hot end manually to verify that the plastic is flowing correctly. If there is a clog or other impediment in the nozzle, the filament will become curly as it is exiting the nozzle. A clear nozzle will always result in the filament extruding as one straight piece.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7312,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Solby89,2.1782824847157594,4.096995355543717,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Z Axis inconsistency - Geeetech I3,\"I'm 3D printing almost 2 years, and I expected to have better result after changing to complete smooth rods with new bearings.\n\nI have a problem with my Z axis giving me inconsistent prints; I already replaced the leadscrews, E3D clone with Bowden tube, I decided to replace all smooth rods on all axis and also the bearings. After I replaced all this, my prints are still bad, also I'm very dissapointed with the results after the replacements. I have checked all I could think of; PID tuning, belts, ....) but I'm running out of ideas.\n\n\n\nPrinting settings:\n\n\nprint speed is 40mm/s, \nretraction is 3mm at 30mm/s, \nextruder 205°C for the first layer, then 200°C\n\n\",0scar,\"From the pictures can be seen that you have good lead screws as there is no cyclic anomaly/wobble present at the side. It appears as though the lines at the sides of the print are more or less random X/Y positional inaccurate.\n\nThese lines can be caused by various reasons. From what is read you tried to improve the mechanical system by upgrading the hardware. It could still be the case that there is still some backlash or play left in the system (e.g. I had once had too much tolerance on the holes of the linear shafts in the printed X-Z mounts causing similar problems). Vibration should be looked into also, e.g. do you have a binding bearing or a large mass on the printer that interacts with the carriage movement like a spool holder on top of your frame. Or maybe the micro-stepping does not work optimally, so check the stepper driver currents.\n\nIf it is no mechanical issue, it could be that you are facing inconsistent extrusion caused by variation in filament thickness or gear slipping or too much tension on the filament by friction in unspooling. Or else a hotend temperature variation. Maybe insulation on the hotend helps.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7312,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Solby89,2.1782824847157594,4.096995355543717,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Z Axis inconsistency - Geeetech I3,\"I'm 3D printing almost 2 years, and I expected to have better result after changing to complete smooth rods with new bearings.\n\nI have a problem with my Z axis giving me inconsistent prints; I already replaced the leadscrews, E3D clone with Bowden tube, I decided to replace all smooth rods on all axis and also the bearings. After I replaced all this, my prints are still bad, also I'm very dissapointed with the results after the replacements. I have checked all I could think of; PID tuning, belts, ....) but I'm running out of ideas.\n\n\n\nPrinting settings:\n\n\nprint speed is 40mm/s, \nretraction is 3mm at 30mm/s, \nextruder 205°C for the first layer, then 200°C\n\n\",Solby89,\"Yesterday I tried some improvements, first I replaced the Y belt pulley, and aligned the frame which I thought to be non-perpendicular and removed the spool holder (which was the culprit of my problem) Attached photo shows a print after these improvements. I have insulation on my hotend. \n\nI think this is the quality I could expect from this cheap printer. Maybe I could reprint X axis gantry, but I'm a little tired of doing something on my printer.\n\n\n\nUpdate on my prints\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nI see some elephant foot, but i will fix this by lift nozzle a bit, but is there some more improvements (temp, retraction, z-hop, coasting, ....) ?\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n7319,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mars7272,1.0891412423578797,2.9816351676497708,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Extruder motor does not stop after G1 E5,\"When I send G1 E5, the extruder motor rotates, but does not stop. It keeps rotating until I restart the system. I am using a Ramps 1.4 board and OctoPrint.\n\",Mick,\"If the printer is in absolute positioning mode (which is used almost exclusively), then the extruder will either wind back or wind forward to the last 5mm point. Effectively, the firmware treats the extruder like any other axis, and you can set the origin whenever and wherever you like (it doesn't have to be the home position). Use G92 to reset the extruder position as follows:\n\nG92 E0 ; Set the extruder position to 0 (origin)\nG1 E5 ; Extrude 5mm of filament\nG92 E0 ; Set the extruder position to 0 again\n\n\nThis is the usual way to purge filament in the slicer's start and end code. Note that you cannot rely on the current position being zero.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7395,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Liam,2.1782824847157594,6.27248646045631,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,How to set the boundaries for BLTouch probing,\"I have just installed the BLTouch on my Ender 3 running Marlin 1.1.9 and I want to set it up so the probing does the 9 points in a perimeter that uses most of the bed surface area. At the moment the probe just covers a small area.\n\n\n\nI read that to sort it out you have to change the section \"\" // Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).\"\" but I can't figure out what to set it as, my current settings are as follows:\n\n #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30\n #define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - 120)\n #define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30\n #define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - 120)\n\n\nWhen I try to set it so something like:\n\n #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30\n #define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - 35)\n #define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30\n #define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - 35)\n\n\nI get an error reading :\n\n RIGHT PROBE_BED POSITION is outside the probe region.\n\n\nAny help you can give me on what I am doing wrong will be greatly appreciated.\n\nThe probe offset from the extruder are as follows:\n\n#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -41 // X offset: -left +right [of \nthe nozzle]\n#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -5 // Y offset: -front +behind [the \nnozzle]\n#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -1 // Z offset: -below +above [the \nnozzle]\n\n\nFor completeness, this is the G-code that I am using: CE3_square.gcode.\n\",0scar,\"As explained in this answer it is you that needs to calculate where the head (read sensor) is supposed to go depending on the amount of space you have left on the carriage shafts.\n\nAs can be seen from your configuration, your sensor is located on the left front (when facing the machine) at 41 mm left from the nozzle you are requesting the sensor to travel to a position that is outside the bed (35 mm), so you should at least subtract 41 mm from your X bed size.\n\nAs you have not posted a bed size, an assumed X bed size of 220 mm would mean that the maximum probing distance for X (i.e. RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION) of 220 - 41 = 179 mm\n\nIn your case -41 mm would take it to the edge, so 30 mm extra would make it symmetrical:\n\n#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30\n#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - 41 - 30)\n#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30\n#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - 5 - 30)\n\n\nFurthermore, it is way more convenient to set the Z distance between the probe and the nozzle using M851 Zxx.xx (where xx.xx denotes the offset as a negative value) than setting it with Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n7410,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Liam,0.0,2.6773020262872316,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How To Trace The Line Of A Print With The Nozzle (With No Plastic Printed),\"I want to calibrate my printer for my new BLTouch (Ender 3 using Marlins 1.1.9), every time I adjust the values in the configuration.h and send it to the printer I end up having to wait for the nozzle and the bed to heat up, it also wastes plastic. \nIs there a way to take out the values in the code that make the extruder turn without causing any damage.\nthe slicer that I am using is Cura and the print that I want to trace is this calibration crosshair. Any help will be greatly appreciated.\n\",Davo,\"Sure. Comment out your E values and the temp set/wait lines:\n\n...\nM109 S245\nM190 S120\n...\nG1 X123.113 Y95.644 E12.81357 F250\nG1 X125.613 Y94.214 E13.06364 ; skirt\nG1 X128.409 Y93.523 E13.31370 ; skirt\nG1 X131.287 Y93.624 E13.56377 ; skirt\nG1 X133.471 Y94.259 E13.76129 F250 \nG1 X133.771 Y94.384 E13.78949 ; skirt\n...\n\nBecomes:\n\n...\n;M109 S245\n;M190 S120\n...\nG1 X123.113 Y95.644 F250 ; E12.81357 \nG1 X125.613 Y94.214 ; E13.06364 ; skirt\nG1 X128.409 Y93.523 ; E13.31370 ; skirt\nG1 X131.287 Y93.624 ; E13.56377 ; skirt\nG1 X133.471 Y94.259 ; E13.76129 F250 \nG1 X133.771 Y94.384 ; E13.78949 ; skirt\n...\n\nNow the printer won't wait for any temperatures, and won't dispense any material.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n7412,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Liam,1.726248027126092,5.002263291928474,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Automatic leveling probe offset; adjusting for one side ruins the other,\"When I adjust the probe offset to get the proper layer height and adhesion, one side is set right but the other doesn't work. If I decrease the probe offset (say -1.100 to -1.050) the right side seems to print better; if I increase the probe offset (-1.050 to -1.125) the left side will adhere to the plate properly.\n\nBefore I added the BLTouch and upgraded the firmware to Marlin 1.1.9 I was able to print a perimeter square (with a little manual adjustment).\n\nMy Printer is the Ender 3 and I am using a glass bed and the model is this centre crosshair\n\n\n\n\n\n\",0scar,\"I have had exactly the same experiences as you did with a inductive sensor on a Prusa i3 clone. It looks as though the bed leveling is not executed, or the level/mesh tilted. Please do note that automatic bed leveling is not magic, you still need to provide a build platform as level (and flat) as possible. A slate of glass is a good build platform surface as the glass production process ensures that the glass is very flat and easy to level.\n\nWhat I did to solve the problem is that I re-leveled the bed and send the M420 S1 command over USB to the printer to enable bed leveling as I was under the impression that it did not use the grid obtained with G29.\n\nOn my CoreXY I also use a touch sensor (3DTouch, which is a BLTouch clone) like you do, even with that sensor I sometimes see that the automatic level is uneven (one side of the skirt has very thin/see through deposition, while the other side appears normal), this is most probably caused by the sensor accuracy (or an obstruction under the probe needle). There is a way to increase the probing accuracy by using double probing where the second probe is advancing slower to the build platform as can be seen in the Marlin Configuration.h file:\n\n// Feedrate (mm/m) for the first approach when double-probing (MULTIPLE_PROBING == 2)\n#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z\n\n// Feedrate (mm/m) for the \"\"accurate\"\" probe of each point\n#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_SLOW (Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST / 2)\n\n\nFor double probing you require to set:\n\n// The number of probes to perform at each point.\n// Set to 2 for a fast/slow probe, using the second probe result.\n// Set to 3 or more for slow probes, averaging the results.\n#define MULTIPLE_PROBING 2\n\n\n\n\nSide note:\nFrom an earlier posting it appears that you are using the #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER in the configuration file to set the offset. It is much more convenient to set that through the LCD menu (Bed Leveling -> Z Probe Offset: -–-) or send the M851 Zx.xx directly over USB or load through a .gcode file from SD card to prevent numerous flashing the firmware with alternative parameters. Make sure that you enable:\n\n#define EEPROM_SETTINGS // Enable for M500 and M501 commands\n\n\nin the Configuration.h file and execute M500 to store the new setting set by M851.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n7412,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Liam,1.726248027126092,5.002263291928474,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Automatic leveling probe offset; adjusting for one side ruins the other,\"When I adjust the probe offset to get the proper layer height and adhesion, one side is set right but the other doesn't work. If I decrease the probe offset (say -1.100 to -1.050) the right side seems to print better; if I increase the probe offset (-1.050 to -1.125) the left side will adhere to the plate properly.\n\nBefore I added the BLTouch and upgraded the firmware to Marlin 1.1.9 I was able to print a perimeter square (with a little manual adjustment).\n\nMy Printer is the Ender 3 and I am using a glass bed and the model is this centre crosshair\n\n\n\n\n\n\",Siebrand,\"From the looks of your test print, this is unlikely all or only due to levelling unless the glass plate is abnormally uneven. You may have to check your extrusion (speed, temp, feed) parameters and/or adhesion (clean with aceton and/or prepare with hairspray or glue stck)\n\",0.0,0.0\n7484,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Liam,1.726248027126092,5.0784800887197985,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,\"Ender 3 extrudes plastic whilst at standstill, and while moving to start of print\",\"I have a small problem where plastic comes out of the nozzle while the printer is at a standstill (normally towards the end of heating the nozzle for a print), and whilst it moves from the line for clearing the nozzle on the left of the bed (Cura) before the actual print starts. This causes a slight problem where the first few millimetres of the printed line curls upwards when the nozzle comes back around again it goes over it but it causes a slight bump that makes a very small (but noticeable) skip or bump in the print on the bottom layer. \n\nI am using the Ender 3 running Marling 1.1.9 with a Bltouch and a glass bed, I didn't seem to have this problem before I upgraded to the glass bed and Marlin for the Bltouch.\n\nAny help will be greatly appreciated.\n\",Trish,\"basics first\n\nThe viscosity of plastic is temperature dependent: the warmer it is, the lower it gets and thus the more \"\"runny\"\". The lower the viscosity is, the less force is needed to move it.\n\nIn printing, a pressure is applied to the filament from the extruder. Pressure is the force by area, thus for our look pretty much the same: the extruder exerts a force on the filament, to overcome the viscosity keeping it in the nozzle.\n\nA secondary effect is, that heated material expands, depending on what kind of material is in the nozzle.\n\nwhat happens\n\nThe whole problem starts with shutting off the printer after the print: as the filament cools it shrinks. As the motors are turned off, the solidifying and shrinking plastic pulls at the filament. The filament can change its location or be pulled a little through the extruder, keeping the space quite well filled without cavities. Bowden style can change the mere filament path a little to compensate some of the shrinkings by shifting its path from hugging the outer wall to doing the same on the inner wall.\n\nAs you start to heat up the printer, there is no force applied on the filament from the extruder to push it out of the nozzle. But when you shut it down, there was some filament in the nozzle.\n\nThe filament melts and its viscosity drops, but at the same time, it expands. The extruder does not yet apply force, but as the material expands, it pushes against the filament stuck above it. Newton's 3rd law is the iconic Actioni contrariam semper et æqualem esse reactionem or as we know it short: Actio = Reactio, the force you exert in one direction equals a force applied in the reverse direction. Thus, the expanding filament pressing back against the extruder also exerts a force against itself down against the nozzle. The same is true for the nozzle, but the nozzle has one difference: it has a hole, where the forces are bundled to force filament out.\n\nAt some point, the force from the expanding filament is big enough to overcome the viscosity keeping the filament in the nozzle and it oozes out.\n\nfixes\n\nThere are several ways to fix this in slicing, but I prefer the end-code method.\n\n\nModify your end code to provide space in the nozzle while it is still hot. Simply add G1 E-3 F1800 to retract quickly at the end of print. F1800 is rather fast.\nModify your start code could help in preventing very runny filaments from oozing, but you usually need to zero the extruder first with G92 E0 and you might also need to allow negative values with G1 S1. This isn't usable in all firmware versions, but one can use G92 E3 to set it to 3, then extrude, then 0.\n\n\nExample End Code\n\nWatch line 2. This is what prevents my Ender 3 from oozing in the first place\n\nG91 ;relative position set\nG1 F1800 E-3 ; Retract 3 mm to prevent oozing on startup\nG1 F3000 Z10 ; Move up 10 mm to clear the print\nG90 ;absolute position set\nG28 X0 Y0 ; home x and y axis to clear the print\nM106 S0 ; turn off part cooling fan\nM104 S0 ; turn off extruder\nM140 S0 ; turn off bed\nM84 ; disable motors\n\n\nExample Start Code addition\n\nThis is just a snippet that forces retraction at the start, once the filament is hot. it WILL though make the first three millimeters of push come empty, thus should be combined with a cleaning that uses more than this - check out Writing G-code : swiping at start of print for better nozzle priming.\n\nG92 E3\nG1 E-3 F1000\nG92 E0\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n7484,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Liam,1.726248027126092,5.0784800887197985,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,\"Ender 3 extrudes plastic whilst at standstill, and while moving to start of print\",\"I have a small problem where plastic comes out of the nozzle while the printer is at a standstill (normally towards the end of heating the nozzle for a print), and whilst it moves from the line for clearing the nozzle on the left of the bed (Cura) before the actual print starts. This causes a slight problem where the first few millimetres of the printed line curls upwards when the nozzle comes back around again it goes over it but it causes a slight bump that makes a very small (but noticeable) skip or bump in the print on the bottom layer. \n\nI am using the Ender 3 running Marling 1.1.9 with a Bltouch and a glass bed, I didn't seem to have this problem before I upgraded to the glass bed and Marlin for the Bltouch.\n\nAny help will be greatly appreciated.\n\",0scar,\"This effect is called oozing. At the end of heating up the hot end, left filament becomes so liquid that it oozes out of the nozzle. This left filament could be a left over from the previous print where an insufficient retract prior to the last print finish causes this (you could retract the filament a little further in your \"\"end G-code\"\" script, first reset the E to zero G92 E0 and then retract G1 E-3 F1500, be sure that the priming length in your \"\"start G-code\"\" takes care of this distance).\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7540,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Liam,2.528907649931287,3.7869293891806497,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Print Lines Aren't Joining Together,\"I have encountered a problem where the print lines are not joining together, when I remove it from the plate it turns into a stringy mess.\n\n\n\n\n\nI am not sure what the problem is because I print out models that have successfully come out with properly joined lines previously, but now are failing. I am using the same nozzle and material that I have been using in past prints.\n\nI am using the Ender 3 with Bltouch running Marlin 1.1.9. The settings I use are as follows:\n\n\nMaterial - PLA\nNozzle - 210\nBed - 60\nSpeed - 60\nFirst Layer Speed - 30\nLine Width - 0.4\n\n\nEDIT\n\nI have included some higher quality photos as requested, between the original post and this edit I added an aluminium Bowden extruder and a new nozzle but the problem still persists. I have also re-tensioned the x-axis belt and re-flashed Marlin to the printer in case that had somehow corrupted. I have also tried increasing the flow rate in Cura but I had to increase to 130% for there to be any noticeable effect (i was able to print a slightly better model but it still has zero integrity). I also tried adjusting the z-axis height tuning but within a few steps up or down it would go from too close to the bed with not enough material coming out, to a decent height but with the original problem.\nI also cleaned out the hot end.\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\",0scar,\"It is hard to tell from the quality of the picture you added, but this appears to be an example of either an incorrect height setting for your nozzle to touch trigger point (too large) or an under-extrusion problem that could be related to incorrect filament diameter setting, nozzle blockage, too high speed, slipping extruder gear, too less spring force on the extruder roller, etc.\n\nAs far as can be seen from the second picture, the filament is not properly squished to the build plate, so I expect that you gain from setting a smaller nozzle to sensor trigger point distance. This can be done with the M851 command.\n\nUpdated after posting high quality pictures:\nFrom the pictures you can see that there is an extrusion problem. Your first layer brim starts with too less material, but seems to make adjoining lines in the brim because it is squished a little too much (nozzle is too close to the build plate). It is advised to calibrate the extruder. The lower walls look fine, these are printed at low speed, the infill however looks very weak, this is probably because of a high printing speed and high temperature. In order to solve the problem you need to lower the speeds, lower the hot end temperature to 200 °C, increase part cooling flow and check and calibrate the whole extruder system/path.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n7636,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Liam,1.726248027126092,4.5315435885065,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,When I attempt to calibrate extruder steps the increased values don't correspond to physical increases,\"I am attempting to follow these instructions to calibrate the extruder, however when I increase the value for DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT the change in physical output does not correspond with the changes.\n\nI started by testing how much filament goes through the extruder when sending G1 E100 F100 to my printer, instead of the 100 mm I get about 38 mm (#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 400, 93 } in Marlin). I increased the value to DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 400, 149.73 } which should take it to 100 mm, when I tested the physical output the increase was only negligible so I repeated the calculation with DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 400, 387.8007 } as the new value. The new physical output is about 64 mm, I think this suggests a mechanical problem rather than a firmware configuration problem, but I am not sure where to go from here.\n\nMy printer is the Ender 3, running Marlin 1.1.9 with a BlTouch and an aluminium bowden extruder mod \n\n(installed after the extrusion problem began).\n\nAny help you can give will be greatly appreciated.\n\",0scar,\"Mechanical?\n\nYou basically answer your own question that there could be a mechanical issue.\n\nIf 93 steps gives you 38 mm, to get to 100 mm, you need to divide 100 by 38 = 2.63 times. This implies that you need 2.63 x 93 = 244.7 steps/mm (not 149.73).\n\nYou even tried close to 400 steps per mm to see you are not extruding 100 mm of filament. This implies that you are either missing a lot of steps (increasing the stepper current or increasing the temperature of the hotend would help out) or the extruder gear slips on the filament (increasing the pressure on the extruder gear and filament could solve this).\n\nOr not mechanical?\n\nFurthermore, it could be another issue than mechanical. If your extrusion rate is too fast, the stepper might not be able to cope the high speed and miss steps. I have had this before with a too high of a retraction speed.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n7678,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Liam,2.528907649931287,4.862481218786127,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Retraction Causing Skipping,\"I am trying to get rid of stringing on my prints, to do that I have tried turning on a retraction in Ultimaker Cura, and reducing flow.\n\nWhen I turn on retraction it causes the extruder to skip on the filament. the extruder pulls the material out as it should, but when it pushes back in as it prints the next parts it goes part of the way then it skips making the bumping sound, it seems to do this almost every time that it retracts.\n\nTo stop this from happening I have tried changing the retraction distance from 10mm to 5mm, the retraction speed from 60 mm/s to 40 mm/s, the flow from 100% to 90% and the temperature from 200 °C to 220 °C.\n\nI am using the Ender 3 running Marlin 1.1.9 with an aluminium Bowden extruder upgrade and BLTouch.\n\n\n\nHow do prevent this skipping due to retraction?\n\nUpdate:\n\nAfter changing the setting to what has been suggested in this answer the result of the retraction print resulted in:\n\n\n\nIt has almost completely solved the stringing problem as well.\n\",0scar,\"Fighting stringing will not work by increasing the temperature of the hotend.\n\nThere could be 2 possible causes for your problem, \n\n\nthe first is that you still have a too high retraction speed, too high for your stepper to follow (do note that the default value in Ultimaker Cura is 25 mm/s),\nthe second is that you retract too far and the cooled \"\"hot\"\" filament tip is deformed and causes extra tension/friction in the extruded liner.\n\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n7684,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Liam,3.0576060275493275,4.600819153356586,3.507933925167123,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Extruder doesn't retract on inner wall lines thereby causing stringing,\"I am trying to stop the stringing that occurs on one of my prints, I have set it so that it retracts the filament which does stop it during the extrusion of the outer wall layer, however when it comes to print the inner lines of the section it does not retract at all (the extruder gear does not move back).\n\n\n\n\n\nI am using Cura as my slicer and I cannot find any setting that would change this. My current retraction settings are as follows:\n\nEnable Retraction - On\nRetract At Layer Change - On\nRetraction Distance - 7\nRetraction Retract Speed - 40 mm/s\nRetraction Prime Speed - 30 mm/s\nRetraction Extra Prime Amount - 1 mm3\nRetract Before Outer Wall - On\n\n\nI am not sure how to stop this from happening, any suggestions that you can make will be greatly appreciated.\n\",Perplexed Dipole,\"Cura has a setting called combing that is enabled by default. This stops the printer from retracting if the travel is contained within the walls. It does this to speed up the print but you get oozing during the travel since the plastic is still in the melt zone. You can change this setting to no skin will will stop it from combing on the skin layers or turn it of completely.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n7745,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Liam,1.0891412423578797,5.0685733601171625,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Filament Leaking During Automatic Bed Leveling,\"Before the print has actually started I have set up Auto Bed Leveling using a BLTouch sensor, during the period that this runs I find that material leaks out of the nozzle and curls back onto itself and by the time it finishes it is substantial enough to cause problems when the nozzle is primed drawing the line to the left of the print. The material that leaks out catches on the material extruded to prime the nozzle, before printing the model so when the first line of the model are extruded to very quickly pulls up off the bed and becomes a massive tangle of material.\n\nI try to catch it my self using various thin instruments to scrape it off the nozzle as it starts the priming but this isn't always successful and is far from ideal. I have also tried adding a retraction before the bed levelling starts suing the gcode commands added to the beginning of every print, at the moment however I find that a retraction large enough to stop the leaking material also means that material doesn't come out for the priming in time so the first lines of the print don't work.\n\nThe gcode at the beginning of the print is as follows:\n\n; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code\nM104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature\nM140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temperature\nM190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature\nM109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature\nG28 ; Home all axes\nG1 F1800 E-3 ; Retract filament 3 mm to prevent oozing\nG29 ; BLTOUCH Mesh Generation\nG92 E0 ; Reset Extruder\nG1 Z5.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed\nG1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position\nG1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line\nG1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little\nG1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ; Reset Extruder\nG1 Z5.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed\n\n\nI am using an Ender 3 running Marlin 1.1.9 with BlTouch Auto Leveling, With slicing done by CURA 3.5.6\n\nAny suggestions you have that would help to stop this would be greatly appreciated.\n\",0scar,\"I have noticed that leveling with a heated nozzle and bed is different than leveling cold. If you want to level with a hot plate and nozzle, another more simple solution is to retract more filament at the finishing of a print, you could add an increased retraction of filament in the \"\"end G-code\"\" script of your slicer.\n\nAs an example, an \"\"end G-code\"\" script could look like:\n\n\nM140 S0 ;heated bed heater off\nM104 S0 ;extruder heater off\nG92 E0 ; set extruder value back to 0\nG1 E-5 F300 ;retract 5 mm filament speed 300\nG1 X0 Y210 ; park the machine\n\n\nBe sure to update the \"\"start G-code\"\" to counteract this retraction in your additional priming section of the nozzle. \n\n\n...\n; Prime the nozzle\nG92 E0 ; set extruder value back to 0\nG1 E5 F300 ; extract 5 mm filament at speed 300\n; additionally, extract more at elevated height and wipe the nozzle...\n...\n\n\nAlternatively, but less accurate (as it does not compensate for layer height) is to have a minimum length of your skirt (this will work if you always use the same first layer height, just calculate how many millimeters you require for the skirt to compensate the retracted volume, you could add some extra distance to the skirt).\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7745,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Liam,1.0891412423578797,5.0685733601171625,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Filament Leaking During Automatic Bed Leveling,\"Before the print has actually started I have set up Auto Bed Leveling using a BLTouch sensor, during the period that this runs I find that material leaks out of the nozzle and curls back onto itself and by the time it finishes it is substantial enough to cause problems when the nozzle is primed drawing the line to the left of the print. The material that leaks out catches on the material extruded to prime the nozzle, before printing the model so when the first line of the model are extruded to very quickly pulls up off the bed and becomes a massive tangle of material.\n\nI try to catch it my self using various thin instruments to scrape it off the nozzle as it starts the priming but this isn't always successful and is far from ideal. I have also tried adding a retraction before the bed levelling starts suing the gcode commands added to the beginning of every print, at the moment however I find that a retraction large enough to stop the leaking material also means that material doesn't come out for the priming in time so the first lines of the print don't work.\n\nThe gcode at the beginning of the print is as follows:\n\n; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code\nM104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature\nM140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temperature\nM190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature\nM109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature\nG28 ; Home all axes\nG1 F1800 E-3 ; Retract filament 3 mm to prevent oozing\nG29 ; BLTOUCH Mesh Generation\nG92 E0 ; Reset Extruder\nG1 Z5.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed\nG1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position\nG1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line\nG1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little\nG1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ; Reset Extruder\nG1 Z5.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed\n\n\nI am using an Ender 3 running Marlin 1.1.9 with BlTouch Auto Leveling, With slicing done by CURA 3.5.6\n\nAny suggestions you have that would help to stop this would be greatly appreciated.\n\",Roberto Lo Giacco,\"The oozing is due to hot-end getting hot before the bed leveling procedure: if you move the hot-end warm up command after the G29 line you avoid that oozing\n\n; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code\nM104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature\nM140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temperature\nG28 ; Home all axes\nG29 ; BLTOUCH Mesh Generation\nM190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature\nM109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature\nG1 F1800 E-3 ; Retract filament 3 mm to prevent oozing\nG92 E0 ; Reset Extruder\nG1 Z5.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed\nG1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position\nG1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line\nG1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little\nG1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ; Reset Extruder\nG1 Z5.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed\n\n\nThe above code will activate the heating elements but starts homing and leveling procedure without waiting for the elements to get up to temperature. Only after the bed leveling is finished the printer will pause and wait for the heating elements reach the desired temperature.\n\nThis will prevent oozing on a cold start, but you will still be affected if you start a print right after another print, when the hot-end is still close to melting temperature.\n\nIf you prefer to avoid that condition you might want to also move the M104 and M140 commands after the G29 bed leveling command.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7747,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Liam,1.0891412423578797,3.8056075277672616,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Material extruded to prime the nozzle doesn't stick to bed at first,\"When the material is extruded to prime the nozzle before the print starts it doesn't always stick to the bed for the first 20 or 30 mm of the line, causing the material extruded just after to peel off the bed as it is pulled up by the nozzle, eventually it does stick down to print a line but the parts that are not stuck to the bed can get caught by the nozzle as it comes back down to draw the second part of the line, this then ruins the first layer of the print of the actual model. On the occasions where the material does not get caught by the nozzle, there is stringing between the nozzle and the end of the line which itself can cause the first part of the bottom layer to have problems.\n\nshould I include a retraction after the priming has finished as it travels to begin the print or would this cause under extrusion of the start of the model thereby defeating the purpose of the priming in the first place.\n\nThe gcode that makes the nozzle prime at the beginning of the print is as follows:\n\n; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code\nM104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature\nM140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temperature\nM190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature\nM109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature\nG28 ; Home all axes\nG1 F1800 E-3 ; Retract filament 3 mm to prevent oozing\nG29 ; BLTOUCH Mesh Generation\nG92 E0 ; Reset Extruder\nG1 Z5.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed\nG1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position\nG1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line\nG1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little\nG1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ; Reset Extruder\nG1 Z5.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed\n\n\nI am using an Ender 3 running Marlin 1.1.9 with BlTouch Auto Leveling, With slicing done by CURA 3.5.6\n\nAny suggestions you have for how to stop the priming problems will be greatly appreciated. \n\",user49687,\"Have you tried using a raft\n\nI had the same issue on my mini delta when I first started printing with it. After checking and double checking the bed level I ended up discovering that using a raft base in Cura solved the issue.\n\nIt does use more plastic however I have had absolutely no issues with respect to sticking in the dozen or so prints since then. \n\nAdditionally it makes removing the print from the bed really easy as I'm not worried about damaging the print with a scraper.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7325,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Miriam ,2.8153892694839717,4.026415726631651,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Prusa i3 pro b second layer failure,\"I just bought a 3D printer => Geeetech Prusa i3 b.\n\nI build it myself and I'm trying to print the famous boat, the Benchy one.\n\nHere's my settings (I've tried Repetier host and Slic3r or Ultimaker Cura):\n\n\n\n\nAnd that's the results..\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAny tips about the settings? The problem seems to be when I print every other layer but the first one which seems reasonable enough.\n\nI used Slic3r with the settings taken from this video, eBay Prusa i3 slic3r settings (comment response video) \n\nNow the first layer is almost perfect but I still have problems with every other layers, too much filament comes out and it's all messy, a bit like the picture I posted above.\n\nA video of the print can be found here.\n\nThe steps per mm value for the Z shaft is 2560.\n\",0scar,\"You need to level the bed properly by setting the correct distance between the nozzle and the bed. Ideally, you need to be able to drag a piece of plain A4 paper between the nozzle and the bed when the nozzle is at Z = 0 giving you a little drag (you feel that by a stuttering movement). From your pictures you can clearly see that the nozzle is way too far from the bed when depositing the first layer (as seen from the video you posted in the comments) as the hot filament drops/falls down to the hot plate. Once it is too far from the plate, each consecutive layer is too far from the previous layer.\n\nFrom the images you posted, it is clearly visible that you have a mechanical/calibration issue. Your belts are probably not tight enough too, but it is difficult to say at the moment as the products are way off from what they should look like.\n\nNote that the printer configuration could be incorrect (although very unlikely as it is out of the box). E.g. the stepper motor needs to make a certain amount of steps to advance the carriage in Z direction. If the mechanical layout requires 400 steps per mm (which is typical for TR8x8 (p2) lead screws on 1.8°(200 steps per revolution) stepper motors and 1/16 microstepping) but is configured as 800, your layer height advances twice as much although the Z=0 level would be okay! I now read (from the updated question) that the value for the steps/mm for the Z axis is 2560, this implies that you are using M8 lead screws with a pitch of 1.25 mm on a 1/16 microstepping board and 200 steps per revolution steppers.\n\nFrom the specifications of your printer follows that the Geeetech Prusa i3 Pro B uses:\n\n\nStepper Motors: 1.8° step angle with 1/16 micro-stepping\n\n\nThis image show the configuration of the axes:\n\n\nSo 2560 is correct! \n\nConclusion:\n\nYour initial leveling and height setting is incorrect, when you printer is at Z=0, it actually is positioned higher. Hence your first layer has very bad adhesion and is not properly flattened and each consecutive layer shows the same problems of falling hot filament. When the speed increases on the next layers the hot filament deposition cannot follow the nozzle, hence the \"\"spaghetti\"\" looks.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n7332,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user51497,3.267423727073639,3.828896735094969,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Tevo Michelangelo nozzle below build plate?,\"I got a Tevo Michelangelo as first 3D printer today and already got a problem with the bed leveling: The extruder nozzle is way below the build plate. (When I auto-home the axes, which I've done several times). I thought to just adjust the plate downwards, but it was incredibly slow, and there was almost no progress.\n\nHere's a picture, sorry for the bad quality:\n\n\n\nShould I continue adjusting it downwoards via the screws (It's getting harder), or is there some other way to solve this? Or am I just making a dumb mistake?\n\",0scar,\"Just move the Z-endstop up a little higher, also make sure the bed leveling screws are not completely screwed in.\n\nSo:\n\n\nMove the head of the printer up.\nMove up the Z-endstop so that the nozzle is a little higher than the build platform.\nHome the printer.\nDisable the stepper motors and move the head over the bed to a certain position (e.g. a corner without disturbing the Z axis), once you get to a new position of the bed, raise the bed by unscrewing the screws until a piece of paper shows noticeable drag when pulled between the nozzle and build platform.\nGoto 3 until you have done all corners several times, also the center of the bed. It is advised to once in a while re-home the printer, this way accidental Z-axis movement is compensated again.\n\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n7334,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user51497,3.0576060275493275,2.9075761835826794,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.6553159206313057,Does moving the z-endstop upwards affect the maximum height of the printable object?,\"As moving the endstop upwards reduces the range of the z-axis, I was wondering whether it reduces the maximum height of the printable object, by the distance the endstop was moved. Or is this somehow (to a certain extent) beeing counterbalanced?\n\n(Follow-up question of this question)\n\",0scar,\"If you move up the end stop such that it raises the nozzle with respect to the build platform you lose height, so basically the answer is yes. But, as seen in your referenced question, your nozzle location is determined by the mechanical layout of the printer and the end stop had to be raised in order to print at all. This means that although you have less height to move the Z gantry, it can now actually print the full range the printer is designed for (the max Z to print is fixed in the configuration of the firmware of the printer and is always smaller than the maximum Z of the mechanical layout). Theoretically, if you ever make a lower profile hotend head, you would be able to lower the end stop and gain a little in height and adjust the firmware maximum Z height.\n\nE.g. in Marlin firmware, for an Anet A8 3D printer,\n\n#define Z_MAX_POS 240\n\n\nin the Configuration.h file defines the maximum print height of 240 mm. If you would deliberately increase the Z end stop height and platform by let's say 50 mm, the printer thinks it still can print 240 mm, but in reality the gantry will crash against the top mounts and thus limit your printing height.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n7334,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user51497,3.0576060275493275,2.9075761835826794,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.6553159206313057,Does moving the z-endstop upwards affect the maximum height of the printable object?,\"As moving the endstop upwards reduces the range of the z-axis, I was wondering whether it reduces the maximum height of the printable object, by the distance the endstop was moved. Or is this somehow (to a certain extent) beeing counterbalanced?\n\n(Follow-up question of this question)\n\",Olleg,\"After adjusting the endstop check that the documented maximum height (150mm) is still achievable. Just move Z axis in the menu.\n\",0.0,0.0\n7645,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user51497,2.1782824847157594,4.2476432990985415,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,\"Scratches in the build plate - How did this happen, and may it cause problems?\",\"A couple of prints after leveling the bed (<10), I noticed some weird sound, and saw the nozzle scratching the build-plate. \nWhat is really weird, is that I noticed (My printer is in quite a dark edge, so the build plate isn't really illuminated), that there were some scratches from a print before, but it worked fine with the prints in between.\nSo my question is, how that might have happened, could it be also software issues (Maybe some mistakes converting to gcode?), or is this propably purely a mechanical issue?\nFurthermore, I'd like to ask whether this may cause any problems, e.g. massively reducing print quality, or weakening the grip of the prints.\n\nI'm using the Tevo Michelangelo 3D, with manual leveling (it drives to the positions, but one has to tighten/loose the screws).\nNote that I might have overtightened the screws in the beginning. Another thing I noticed is that the screws on one side tend to be more loose than the other ones.\n\n\n\",0scar,\"As the question continued in comments, it can be read that the build plate had over-tight screws and loose screws on the build plate. This uneven tension could lead to stresses that warp the bed, e.g. lower corner and bulging out in the middle of the bed. When levelling on the corners, the nozzle could hit the bulge in the middle when printing. Furthermore, an endstop may have shifted during operation.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n7645,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user51497,2.1782824847157594,4.2476432990985415,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,\"Scratches in the build plate - How did this happen, and may it cause problems?\",\"A couple of prints after leveling the bed (<10), I noticed some weird sound, and saw the nozzle scratching the build-plate. \nWhat is really weird, is that I noticed (My printer is in quite a dark edge, so the build plate isn't really illuminated), that there were some scratches from a print before, but it worked fine with the prints in between.\nSo my question is, how that might have happened, could it be also software issues (Maybe some mistakes converting to gcode?), or is this propably purely a mechanical issue?\nFurthermore, I'd like to ask whether this may cause any problems, e.g. massively reducing print quality, or weakening the grip of the prints.\n\nI'm using the Tevo Michelangelo 3D, with manual leveling (it drives to the positions, but one has to tighten/loose the screws).\nNote that I might have overtightened the screws in the beginning. Another thing I noticed is that the screws on one side tend to be more loose than the other ones.\n\n\n\",HackerJ,\"I currently have a couple scratches on the base of my Cr-10. They may have come, for me, from using tape on the bed as well as the nozzle being too close and rubbing. I have not noticed any quality difference during my prints. Noting Oscar, warping could also cause the nozzle to scrape the build plate when it goes over it. I am attempting to fix this problem on own printer.\n\",0.0,0.0\n7336,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,fuxT,1.726248027126092,3.730570161998277,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Hollow wing for rc plane,\"I am trying to print a wing for a rc plane with my 3D printer. In order to make the wing as light as possible I need to hollow it (and afterwards put some stable structure there). I've tried the Blender Solidify modifier to do this but without success. The material on the sharp edge on the rear part of the wing gets thinner and thinner although the \"\"Even Thickness\"\" option is checked (see picture). When preparing this for printing, the slicer puts only one line of filament there instead of two. What I need is a brim on the inner side of the stl file with a constant spacing.\n\n\n\nI've also tried the Meshmixer Hollow and Extrude modifiers. They both had problems with those sharp edges (see picture).\n\n\n\nThe third program I've tested was FreeCAD. But it crashed at all :-(\n\nCan someone please help me? I would appreciate any suggestion or other programs which can handle this problem. Remodeling is no option for me as I have even more complex objects to hollow for example the fuselage.\n\nThe stl file of the wing can be found here: https://files.fm/u/5futezwj\n\nThanks so much for your help!\n\",Trish,\"I am sorry to inform you, that the answer to \"\"How do I fix the thickness\"\" is \"\"Remodel them\"\" - especially in this case as the whole design is... awkward.\n\nBut you don't necessarily need to resign them from scratch, if you can fix it... But beware, fixing does only work sometimes...\n\nFirst of all, Blender is NOT a good modeling software for designing parts that shall be printed, Blender is a 3D Artist program, not a CAD program. It can serve its course, but it can and will ruin your day. I suggest grabbing Autodesk Fusion 360, since it is mighty and free for small makers.\n\nStep 1: Transfer into CAD software\n\nFor our first step, we want to take the surface of the Wing and export it as an STL. To do this, remove all interior vertices. ALL. Save as a work-project. Look for \"\"BAD\"\" areas - try to have as little vertices as possible. If several are in the same flat area feel free to remove some. The simpler, the better - compare these two pictures - left the bad side, right the good.\n\n\n\nExport via File > Export > .stl.\n\nOpen Fusion 360 and import via the process outlined here: Insert > Mesh.\n\nNow we need to turn our Mesh into a BRep like described here: \n\n\nDeactivate the pickup of model history by right-clicking the project in the left, then \"\"Don't capture design history\"\"\nModify > Mesh > Mesh tp BRep\nchoose your object and OK\nreactivate the model history by right-clicking the project in the left, then \"\"Don't capture design history\"\"\n\n\nStep 2: assigning Thickness\n\nWe got a surface now... or rather several that are stitched together. We want to give them thickness...\n\n\ncreate > thicken\nclick on one area, choose the thickness as a negative value. For example -1 mm\nclick on the body's lightbulb to make it visible again\nrinse and repeat for each area not yet thickened\n\n\nHint: rightclick opens a context menu that offers repeat ..., where ... is the last used operation, in this case: thicken. This considerably can speed it up.\n\n\n\nStep 3: Combining thickened parts\n\nNow, we have several thickened parts, all of them intersecting or touching. like, what usually looks like this...\n\n\n\nactually is these different parts (which I colored for showing only - it is totally unnecessary!)\n\n\nIt's easy to see these all intersect. And luckily, intersecting parts can be easily merged! \n\n\nModify > Combine\nclick one, then another. OK.\nrinse and repeat as much as you can - some pieces will throw an \"\"inconsistent edge-face-relationship\"\" error. If these crop up, you need to start over, fixing the Mesh.\n\n\n\n\nTo state it clear after wasting 2 hours on this:\n\nYour files needs to be done again from scratch.\n\nIn a proper CAD modeling software. Because what you have there is not fixable easily.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7336,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,fuxT,1.726248027126092,3.730570161998277,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Hollow wing for rc plane,\"I am trying to print a wing for a rc plane with my 3D printer. In order to make the wing as light as possible I need to hollow it (and afterwards put some stable structure there). I've tried the Blender Solidify modifier to do this but without success. The material on the sharp edge on the rear part of the wing gets thinner and thinner although the \"\"Even Thickness\"\" option is checked (see picture). When preparing this for printing, the slicer puts only one line of filament there instead of two. What I need is a brim on the inner side of the stl file with a constant spacing.\n\n\n\nI've also tried the Meshmixer Hollow and Extrude modifiers. They both had problems with those sharp edges (see picture).\n\n\n\nThe third program I've tested was FreeCAD. But it crashed at all :-(\n\nCan someone please help me? I would appreciate any suggestion or other programs which can handle this problem. Remodeling is no option for me as I have even more complex objects to hollow for example the fuselage.\n\nThe stl file of the wing can be found here: https://files.fm/u/5futezwj\n\nThanks so much for your help!\n\",Horitsu,\"Don't design your part as hollow. Make it solid. Then put it in the slicer and chose the infill (i recomment cubic pattern in cura) you want. So you have a mainly hollow wing with a nice structure in it. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7360,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,xuma202,1.726248027126092,4.108927526259478,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Cantilever snap-fits print axis,\"I'm new to 3d printing and need to design and print a case on an Ultimaker S5 using PLA. \nThe case is box like and consist of a top and a bottom part. I was thinking about cantilever snap-fits to join the two parts. I read that these snap-fits need to be printed in the X-Y-plane for better stability. However with the bottom/top side down the walls will be in the Z-axis and thus the snap-fits would be printed in the X-Z- plane. If I would print the part lying in it's side I would need a lot of support in the inside. How am I supposed to do this correctly? \n\nAlso what tolerances should I use to make the parts fit well while still being separable? \n\",Trish,\"Let's look at the general design.... it is a case... so a box of to halves. And we need some kind of connector...\n\nHow about splitting the connector into a separate C-shaped piece? That way the connector clip can be printed with the C to the plane, getting maximum durability out of either pice. You just need to print some short overhangs, the clip going around the central box, possibly in dedicated notches. Also, this is easily removable from the outside with a screwdriver. And easily replaceable. Also, both sides could be identical, if designed in the right way.\n\nOr we use a slot in the lower body, and a Y shaped slot in the top, and make the connectors have a flat hook that matches into the lower body (push in from below) then the split top pushes through the top and latches in... This isn't removable from outside easily.\n\nThird alternative: bolts. If the item inside the box - a PCB? - is going to be bolted to the lower case anyway, why not add extra long screws and have the top case be bolted to the lower case with the same screw that holds the PCB in place? Or, just use a pair of additional bolts and nuts on the corners.\n\nEdit: Recently, Angus aka MakersMuse uploaded a video discussing snap-fit connections and how to make them 3D printable with the example of a backpack buckle.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7364,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,iamroot,2.528907649931287,5.729251344560028,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,What parts are suitable replacements for an Ender 3 Pro?,\"I'm new to 3D printing and I recently got my first 3D printer, an Ender 3 Pro by Creality.\n\nI've tried to find information about the type of nozzles should I look for. I'm trying to find stainless steel nozzles but there are so many models (M7, M8, etc.) and I have no idea what nozzle type I should get.\n\nI've tried searching on Google but the only info I could find is that the extruder is an MK-10.\n\nI am also looking for a heating cartridge for the hot end, but I still cannot find no information about the size that I need (15 mm/20 mm/30 mm). Also looked for info about the heated bed so I know what kind of thermistor I need (I found two types and no clue which one to get).\n\nWhere can I find some technical information about these?\n\",0scar,\"There is no such thing as a single MK10 hotend design. The Chinese aftermarket has mingled the designations.\n\nIf it has a MK10 like Makerbot hotend, then the nozzles you are looking for are M7 threads. It appears (see this answer) that your hotend is a cloned MK10 and has different dimensions, you have the M6 version.\n\nQuote from link above: (this is about the Makerbot MK10)\n\n\n MK10 was a complete change of the hotend. MK10 uses smooth OD thermal\n barriers with a larger 4mm OD 2mm ID PTFE liner. MK10 also uses M7\n threads, vs the M6 of all previous models. This is because a 4mm PTFE\n liner is barely enough metal to make the outer tube with m6 threads.\n MK10 is completely incompatible with all previous hotend parts. Every\n part is different. Mk10 still uses MK9 feeder parts.\n\n\nYou could measure your current heat block (the width of the Aluminium block); if you look at the MK10 drawings of a proper M7 MK10 Makerbot (or derivative) hotend (below) you see that the width of the block is about 19 mm (which would be the length of the heater cartridge).\n\n\n\nThe CEO of ToyBuilder labs explains the difference between an \"\"MK10\"\" and an MK8 in this video:\n\n\n\nAs can be seen, your nozzle clearly is not an MK10.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7364,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,iamroot,2.528907649931287,5.729251344560028,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,What parts are suitable replacements for an Ender 3 Pro?,\"I'm new to 3D printing and I recently got my first 3D printer, an Ender 3 Pro by Creality.\n\nI've tried to find information about the type of nozzles should I look for. I'm trying to find stainless steel nozzles but there are so many models (M7, M8, etc.) and I have no idea what nozzle type I should get.\n\nI've tried searching on Google but the only info I could find is that the extruder is an MK-10.\n\nI am also looking for a heating cartridge for the hot end, but I still cannot find no information about the size that I need (15 mm/20 mm/30 mm). Also looked for info about the heated bed so I know what kind of thermistor I need (I found two types and no clue which one to get).\n\nWhere can I find some technical information about these?\n\",Gone Coding,\"The Ender 3 takes an M6 thread (metric 6 mm diameter). Measurement of stock nozzle shown. \n\nMost sellers will list compatible printers Ender 2, Ender 3, Ender 4, CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 Mini, CR-10-S4, CR-10-S5, CR-8, CR-7. Will Also Fit Any Other MK10 Heater Blocks. \n\nI recently bought some titanium alloy nozzles as the brass one got closed over after crashing into the glass bed. \n\n\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n7369,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,sanyi,1.726248027126092,5.7422695815599365,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Ender 3 seemingly speeds up too much on straight long shell lines,\"After few good prints with my new Ender 3, I noticed that prints with longer shell straight lines (> 5 cm) have extrusion problems in the middle of those lines.\n\nI figured that this might be because the printing speed (70 mm/s) and filament temperature (210 °C for PLA). So I increased my filament temperature about 215 °C and lowered print speed to 60 mm/s. I am using Cura v3.5.1. For the next few smaller prints everything was perfect.\n\nNow I am printing a bigger 128 mm X 48 mm rectangular shape. In the middle of the 128mm line of the outer shell, I have signs of under extrusion. Looks like dents. \n\nI also notice that the head is really fast during this 128 mm travel. No way ~2 seconds would take 60 mm/s to travel 128 mm. It is more like 1 second or less.\n\nWhy would my head travel at such speeds? \n\nI am attaching my speed settings.\n\n\n\nI am attaching the image of the printed piece and the defect generated.\n\n\n\",Perplexed Dipole,\"Your travel speed is set to 120mm/s so it would make sense the 128mm travel takes ~1 second. You most likely have combing turned on so that it doesn't not need to retract on travels. This makes it ooze plastic as it travels and would mimic underextrustion.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n7372,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gone Coding,3.0576060275493275,4.262655180587814,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Adding additional extrusion to a raft (raft with a skirt?),\"I started using rafts more often, to get better results with complex or fragile parts, but my Ender 3 consistently under-extrudes the initial outside line of the raft (for the first inch or two, where extrusion starts). \n\nIt is often very thin and does not adhere. This often leads to problems with the following pattern of raft layer 1 curling up (ABS) as it does not meet the edge line (due to the 1-2 inch gap in the perimeter).\n\nSkirts avoid this problem by getting the flow going, but rafts only print a single outer line.\n\n\nIs it possible to specify more than one outer line on a raft in Ultimaker Cura?\nIs it possible to add a skirt to a print that has a raft (or at least some initial printing to get the flow going)?\nIs it possible to add some initial G-code that will extrude a line, say from near the start position to the start of the print?\n\n\n\n\",0scar,\"In Ultimaker Cura you can select only one of the the build plate adhesion options skirt, brim or raft. You cannot select multiple options. \n\nThere is no option available in Ultimaker Cura to increase the outline count of the raft bed adhesion structure. Basically the raft exists of a line support structure as can be seen in the figure below.\n\nThe line around the lines should be considered \"\"the skirt\"\", so if the nozzle is not properly primed (not sufficient molten filament available), you need to properly prime the nozzle prior to printing.\n\nTo prime the nozzle, you need to add some extrusion of filament in your start G-code.\n\nPersonally, I like the style of Ultimaker where prior to printing, a puddle of filament is deposited priming the nozzle adequately. Basically you need to move to a position where you like to deposit filament:\n\n G1 X10 Y10 Z2\n\n\nThen you need to extrude material\n\n G1 F125\n G1 E10\n G1 Z3 E5\n\n\nAfter that you can even wipe the nozzle.\n\nAnother option (that requires some copy/pasting from your side and would not be a recommended practice) that is possible is slicing the model with a skirt (with a sufficient distance to stay away from the raft position) instead of a raft and look at the generated G-code and copy the skirt deposition codes into the raft G-code file. You do need to take care of the proper length of the extruder when the skirt followed by the raft, so you need to use G92 Exx.xx where xx.xx is the actual length of the filament start for the raft. \n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n7372,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gone Coding,3.0576060275493275,4.262655180587814,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Adding additional extrusion to a raft (raft with a skirt?),\"I started using rafts more often, to get better results with complex or fragile parts, but my Ender 3 consistently under-extrudes the initial outside line of the raft (for the first inch or two, where extrusion starts). \n\nIt is often very thin and does not adhere. This often leads to problems with the following pattern of raft layer 1 curling up (ABS) as it does not meet the edge line (due to the 1-2 inch gap in the perimeter).\n\nSkirts avoid this problem by getting the flow going, but rafts only print a single outer line.\n\n\nIs it possible to specify more than one outer line on a raft in Ultimaker Cura?\nIs it possible to add a skirt to a print that has a raft (or at least some initial printing to get the flow going)?\nIs it possible to add some initial G-code that will extrude a line, say from near the start position to the start of the print?\n\n\n\n\",Gone Coding,\"The latest update to Cura (3.6.0 at time of writing) added a printer configuration specifically for the Ender 3. \n\nThe Start G-code script now includes the following:\n\n; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code\nG28 ; Home all axes\nG92 E0 ; Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed\nG1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position\nG1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line\nG1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little\nG1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ; Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed\n; End of custom start GCode\n\n\nThis prints 2 initial lines, right along the left edge of the print bed. This solves the priming issue completely and results in a perfect initial border on the rafts.\n\nThis would indicate this priming issue is a known problem with the Ender 3.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n7388,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gone Coding,2.1782824847157594,4.920107403940228,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Ender 3 Z-limit now unreliable - possible causes and solutions?,\"I had a couple of recent nozzle/bed crashes, so I now frequently do a manual bed levelling. I do these while the bed is heated to allow for expansion. \n\nToday i found, after levelling, a subsequent print could vary from having too much clearance (paper moves very freely) to less than no clearance (which left deep grooves in the bed as per the photo). \n\n\n\nWhat are the possible causes? Is it just a dodgy Z-limit switch or something else? What solutions are available and at what cost? Obviously an ABL seems essential now, but requires a lot of hardware and setup. \n\nUpdate\n\nJust happened again so here are some more details. \n\nPrinting PLA this time. \n - Preheated bed. \n - Levelled bed all over and got a very good raft. \n - Print failed later so aborted. \n - Restarted the same print. \n - Nozzle gouged out a uniform depth trench around print perimeter. \n\nThe uniform depth of the gouge indicates a problem related to Z-axis only as bed remains flat and level, but height is out. \n\",window,\"I've just bought an Ender 3 Pro and as a guess I would look at the Z axis stepper motor to see if it is not holding position once it stops... the stepper motor has power on it all the time it is stopped to hold it in position.\n\nI would check the plug that feeds power to see if it is damaged or not making good contact.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7388,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gone Coding,2.1782824847157594,4.920107403940228,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Ender 3 Z-limit now unreliable - possible causes and solutions?,\"I had a couple of recent nozzle/bed crashes, so I now frequently do a manual bed levelling. I do these while the bed is heated to allow for expansion. \n\nToday i found, after levelling, a subsequent print could vary from having too much clearance (paper moves very freely) to less than no clearance (which left deep grooves in the bed as per the photo). \n\n\n\nWhat are the possible causes? Is it just a dodgy Z-limit switch or something else? What solutions are available and at what cost? Obviously an ABL seems essential now, but requires a lot of hardware and setup. \n\nUpdate\n\nJust happened again so here are some more details. \n\nPrinting PLA this time. \n - Preheated bed. \n - Levelled bed all over and got a very good raft. \n - Print failed later so aborted. \n - Restarted the same print. \n - Nozzle gouged out a uniform depth trench around print perimeter. \n\nThe uniform depth of the gouge indicates a problem related to Z-axis only as bed remains flat and level, but height is out. \n\",Nach0z,\"Similar issue happened to coworker's Maker Ultimate. I'm gonna go out on a limb and assume that your Z-stop is a little mechanical switch, and there's an M3 screw going through part of the Z carriage that pushes said switch. \nCheck to see how much force it takes to rotate said screw. There's a lot of vibration happening in a 3d printer, and it takes surprisingly little vibration to make a threaded part do weird things, including making it back out against gravity if conditions are right. Redo your Z gap paper test, get everything lined up, and then slap a dab of blue loctite on the screw to make sure it doesn't move during your next print. See if that fixes your problem.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7393,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gone Coding,2.528907649931287,3.678721662112462,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Getting a Cura Raft to stick to the object more firmly (for ABS),\"I have been have a problem printing ABS with Cura on an Ender 3. \n\nI am getting good bed adhesion on the raft, but the object on top of the raft easily curls off it. See photo below. \n\nSettings:\n\n\nBed 110 °C\nNozzle 260 °C\nFan 0 % speed\n\n\nHow do you control how strongly the raft adheres to the object in Cura?\n\n\n\",0scar,\"You should reduce the air gap option called \"\"Raft Air Gap\"\". Printing ABS optimally requires an enclosure of the printer, wind and draft cause temperature changes which could lead to layer separation.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n7473,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gone Coding,1.726248027126092,5.082973185564372,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Ender 3 Won’t Start - flashing screen and blue LED on main board,\"Just received my second Ender 3 (see my other questions for the problems that first one developed). Figured it best to have a spare while I upgrade my first one with an ABL. \n\nI assembled it as normal, without any issues, but on applying power the LCD screen just flashes on and off continuously along with the blue LED on the main board. See photo. \n\nWhen I power it off, the Ender 3 logo appears briefly before it goes black. I am in the U.K. and running 240v setting. Is this likely the power supply or the motherboard? I already tried another screen and same problem. \n\n\n\",Gone Coding,\"Just after I posted this I tried swapping various components with my other Ender 3. \n\nIt turns out a faulty power supply will produce this effect. When I swapped out the power supply it started normally.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n7376,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user25704,1.0891412423578797,4.389229469690946,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Is my printer over extruding?,\"\n\n\nI'm getting some slight pooling on the end of straight lines on my Ender-3\n\nIs this due to over extruding? Or some other issue?\n\",user802599,\"It looks like you some of your layers are printing with 100% infill.\n\nIf you are noticing plastic still coming out at the end of lines then I think your pressure in the nozzle is high when it is getting to the end of those lines and that pressure is pushing out the extra plastic. \n\nThat could be because your over extruding, but if it is only happening on layers where you are printing with 100% infill it could also be because lines are too close together and so when your trying to push out plastic to fill all the gaps in the model the pressure is building up in the nozzle because the gaps in the infill are to small for the amount of plastic the printer is trying to push into them. \n\nI would see if it is happening on all your lines or is it worse on layers where the printer is printing 100% infill. Then maybe try adjusting the amount the printer is extruding and see how it changes the print. \n\nAdjusting the speed could also make a difference. And some slicers have a setting to tell the printer to coast at the end of a line so the printer will stop extruding just before finishing a line as well. If you think the other setting are all tuned as good as you can get them then trying the coast setting might help for the model you are trying to print.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7376,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user25704,1.0891412423578797,4.389229469690946,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Is my printer over extruding?,\"\n\n\nI'm getting some slight pooling on the end of straight lines on my Ender-3\n\nIs this due to over extruding? Or some other issue?\n\",0scar,\"The extruded filament is very inconsistent in deposited line width, so this is potentially over-extrusion. It is advised to check and calibrate the extruder, see \"\"How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer?\"\".\n\nIt looks as though the positional accuracy is off (without knowing the actual print object; some lines are not touching), please check your belt tension.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7379,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,hgg2k,2.528907649931287,4.918038232646955,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Creality Ender-3 slanted nozzle,\"I’ve just received my first 3D printer, the Ender-3 and while\nassembling the unit I noticed that the nozzle is slanted and\nnot vertical on its holder unit. \n\n\n\n\nIs this normal or do I have to try to make it vertical?\nDid I receive a faulty nozzle unit? \n\n\",0scar,\"This is not normal, the heat break (which is the cylindrical part between the nozzle block and the upper cooling part assembly is probably bent in your example) should be perpendicular to the 2020 guide beam (X-axis) so that the nozzle exit is exactly perpendicular to the (heated) platform.\n\nYou either received a faulty heat break, or too much force is exerted during assembly. You should contact the seller.\n\nYou could disassemble (after you contacted the seller) to see if the heat break is bent or something else is incorrect. Once you have the heat break out, you can measure the dimensions and order a replacement locally (for speed). It is advisable to have some heat breaks, nozzles, and even a heater block, heater cartridges and thermistors available as spares, these are pretty cheap to obtain through the regular Chinese vendor sites or auction sites.\n\nIf the heat break is bent, bending it back is not advised as this heat break easily tears open as it usually consists of thin walls.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n7382,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,RashkRizwan,2.1782824847157594,3.2877657568844505,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.6553159206313057,What are the most common 3D printing file formats?,\"What are the most common 3D printing file formats, and which one is more effective or used more than others?\n\",Davo,\"STL is the standard for pretty much everything out there.\n\nEDIT: This is for models to be sliced and printed. Gcode is what would actually be executed, after slicing, to create the print.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n7382,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,RashkRizwan,2.1782824847157594,3.2877657568844505,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.6553159206313057,What are the most common 3D printing file formats?,\"What are the most common 3D printing file formats, and which one is more effective or used more than others?\n\",0scar,\"3D-Model Exchange Files\n\nThe most common file formats to exchange models for 3D printing are STL, OBJ, FBX, COLLADA, 3DS, IGES, STEP, and VRML/X3D.\n\nOf these, STL, OBJ, AMF, and 3MF are the most popular formats according to All3DP. Pointing out which is the best is a subjective interpretation and not fit for SE sites. However, for many of the model sharing sites, like e.g. Thingiverse.com, many people share the STL file format.\n\n\nSTL file format is short for “stereolithography” and is a 3D rendering that is containing a single color.\nOBJ file format, this format stores information about your 3D model. It encodes surface geometry of your 3D model and is also able to store color and even texture information.\nAMF file format stands for Additive Manufacturing File Format, this is a relative new format for 3D printing based on an XML open standard. Like OBJ it can store color information. When compressed, the size can be reduced significantly to about half the size of STL files.\n3MF file format stands for 3D Manufacturing Format. It is also a relatively new file format that aims to be a new standard for additive manufacturing. According to the 3MF consortium, it allows higher inter-operability between 3D modeling software and other applications, services, platforms, and printers.\n\n\nActual Printing Files\n\nIn the end, all these formats store the models of your products which eventually need to be transformed into 3D printer understandable instructions. These instructions are called G-code commands.\n\nLately I also noted that Ultimaker Cura stores sliced models in GZ file format for my Ultimaker 3 Extended, which is a compressed archive from the GZIP compression utility containing the actual G-code file.\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n7397,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,RashkRizwan,1.726248027126092,2.8568583264187786,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Can I use a 2D photo to get a 3D printing model?,\"Can I use a 2D photo to get a 3D printing model that gives a good result?\n\",kdtop,\"With just 1 2D photo, you can never get a 100% accurate 3D object. That is because you don't really know about the hidden parts. Think of a photo of a smiling mischievous child that is facing you, and you can't see that they are holding a sling shot behind their back. However, with multiple 2D photos, one can reconstruct a 3D object, provided all the parts are seen. This is called photogrammetry. You can search wikipedia and youtube for in-depth discussion about this. It is an entire science. There are applications that do this for you, but I can't recall the details right now. \n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n7450,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,RashkRizwan,2.528907649931287,4.005117949358426,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.749318730431847,3.322464497796202,Is there a difference between 3D printing and additive manufacturing?,\"Is there a difference between 3D printing and additive manufacturing if any then explain?\n\",42Z0GqNNz,\"I see several answers to that.\n\nA lot of persons say 3d printing while they really mean additive manufacturing. For them, the machine got a 3d part out of raw material as a 2d printer got them images out of sheets.\n\nSome persons think that 3d printing refers to lowpriced polymers additive manufacturing machines while additive manufacturing refers to industrial, expansive equipment like the so-called \"\"DMLS\"\"or \"\"SLM\"\". \n\nOthers persons say that additive manufacturing processes that use 2d-printers heads (ink injectors, such as HP additive manufacturing machines) should be called 3d printers and 3d printing because it's so similar to 2d printers.\n\nI consider that \"\"3d printer\"\" should be avoided in general, because it is way too vague and referring to way too much different things. But it is up to anyone using these words, I just think that a serious person wouldn't use \"\"3d printer\"\" given all the mismatch that it could generate. I think we should use the exact process' name instead (like FDM for low-priced additive manufacturing polymer machines), or if you refer to the overall technology, use additive manufacturing.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n7450,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,RashkRizwan,2.528907649931287,4.005117949358426,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.749318730431847,3.322464497796202,Is there a difference between 3D printing and additive manufacturing?,\"Is there a difference between 3D printing and additive manufacturing if any then explain?\n\",0scar,\"Origin\n\n3D printing and additive manufacturing (AM) both refer to a range of processes where, opposed to subtractive manufacturing methodologies, materials are joined to create products. E.g. FFF, SLS, etc.\n\nFrom this reference you see a reference to 3D printing:\n\n\n Additive manufacturing is the official industry standard term (ASTM\n F2792) for all applications of the technology. It is defined as the\n process of joining materials to make objects from 3D model data,\n usually layer upon layer, as opposed to subtractive manufacturing\n methodologies.\n\n\nFrom e.g. this reference one reads that there is no difference:\n\n\n Between the terms 3D printing and additive manufacturing, there is no\n difference. 3D printing and additive manufacturing are synonyms for\n the same process.\n\n\nUseage now\n\nHowever, as the AM processes and applications grew in time, 3D printing has become a subset of AM. As worded by Peter Zelinski in August 2017:\n\n\n To be sure, the terms overlap. They can be used in ways that make them\n sound like synonyms. But the relationship between them and the\n difference between them is this: 3D printing is the operation at the\n heart of additive manufacturing, just as “turning” or “molding” might\n be the operation at the heart of a conventional manufacturing process.\n In short, additive manufacturing requires and includes 3D printing,\n but it also entails more than 3D printing, and it refers to something\n more rigorous.\n\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n7385,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gonzalo Bea,2.1782824847157594,3.7393256487986095,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Problems with STL model in Ultimaker Cura,\"I want to print a piece of fruit modeled in Blender. It is an STL file. \nPlease note that I am an absolute beginner at 3D printing models. \n\nWhat do these red zones mean? What is wrong about the mesh in each case?\n\n\n\nThe fruit has some low-poly seeds. These used to be a particle system but I then changed them into individual objects.\n\n\n\nThis view shows the base of the fruit, why is it colored red?\n\",0scar,\"3D printers cannot print in the air without a prior layer or a support structure supporting the new printed layer. For the picture showing the bottom of the fruit, the red area is the calculated area that requires support for printing, so please enable that in the slicer application.\n\nFor the top picture please post a detail or a zoomed in part. It is currently difficult to see what is the matter. It looks as though the STL model is incorrect and Ultimaker Cura thinks that the seeds are upside down, hence the red coloring also. This means that you need to fix the normals of the vertices in the STL model. Please look into this answer and this answer for some hints.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n7417,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Arthur Mamou-Mani,2.8153892694839717,4.784606844093332,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.585260288142579,Is G-code read line by line?,\"I am trying to add the line\n\n\n G4 P4000 G1 F4000 E-50\n\n\nto pause and retract the print in order for the printed line to dry (printing in mid air vertically). Does the above code work or should i skip lines or does it not matter at all?\n\n\n G4 P4000\n G1 F4000 E-50\n\n\nWould the following line do the exact same thing?\n\n\n G4 P5000 E-50\n\n\",Davo,\"This needs to be on two lines like in your second example:\n\n\n G4 P4000\n G1 F4000 E-50\n\n\nSee the RepRap Gcode Wiki for more info. https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code\n\nEDIT: if you actually want to retract and THEN pause, reverse it:\n\n\n G1 F4000 E-50\n G4 P4000\n\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n7417,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Arthur Mamou-Mani,2.8153892694839717,4.784606844093332,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.585260288142579,Is G-code read line by line?,\"I am trying to add the line\n\n\n G4 P4000 G1 F4000 E-50\n\n\nto pause and retract the print in order for the printed line to dry (printing in mid air vertically). Does the above code work or should i skip lines or does it not matter at all?\n\n\n G4 P4000\n G1 F4000 E-50\n\n\nWould the following line do the exact same thing?\n\n\n G4 P5000 E-50\n\n\",0scar,\"Yes, G-code is read line by line. G-code is a numerical control programming language. It basically instructs the machine sequentially line by line to do a specific task. The printer than executes the lines one by one until it reaches the end.\n\nIf you instruct the printer to wait (G4 dwell), it will do the wait/dwell first and than will execute the next command to retract the filament. As such, your examples will not work if you want to retract the filament during the pause, you reversed the process if you want to achieve that.\n\nTo add a pause (simple) for e.g. filament changing, you should instruct the head to go to a certain position, extract the filament, and now insert the pause/dwell command. Give yourself enough time to insert and prime the nozzle and go back to the last location to continue printing. \n\nYou could insert something like (e.g. in between layer change, before G1 Zx.xx):\n\n...\nG1 X0 Y0 F2000 ; Relocate the print head\nG1 F4000 E-50 ; Retract filament\nG4 P40000 ; Wait for 40 seconds\nG92 E50 ; The new filament should continue at this value\n...\nG1 Zx.xx\n\n\nDepending on what happens after G1 Zx.xx, you may need to set the head back to the location prior to where it was before G1 X0 Y0 F2000.\n\nDo note that there are pausing scripts/plugins available for e.g. Ultimaker Cura, and there is also a filament changing command M600 that can be enabled for certain firmware (if this is your ultimate goal).\n\nUsing a post processing plugin of Ultimaker Cura, a pausing script looks like:\n\n\n...\nG0 X137.692 Y105\n;TIME_ELAPSED:707.873599\n;TYPE:CUSTOM;added code by post processing\n;script: PauseAtHeight.py\n;current z: 5\n;current height: 5.0\nM83\nG1 F300 Z6\nG1 F9000 X190 Y190\nG1 F300 Z15\nM104 S0; standby temperature\nM0;Do the actual pause\nM109 S200; resume temperature\nG1 F300 Z6\nG1 F9000 X133.423 Y105\nG1 F9000\nM82\nG92 E911.50045\n;LAYER:24\nG0 X137.692 Y105 Z5\n...\n\n\nNote that G0 and G1 are \"\"move to\"\" location instructions (albeit through a different way, fast move and linear move respectively). If you look closely, you see that after the pause, the printer returns to the X-Y position where it left prior to the pause (X137.692 Y105).\n\n\n\nSide note:\nSome firmware flavors allow buffering, but each statement is executed sequentially.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n7432,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Arthur Mamou-Mani,1.726248027126092,4.491191602161855,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.880918201452841,G4 S20 vs. G4 P2000,\"Given the Marlin Firmware what is the difference between the following lines of code:\n\n\n G4 S20\n\n\nand\n\n\n G4 P2000\n\n\",0scar,\"The answer is that it depends on the type of firmware you are using.\n\nLet us look at the documentation of G4 to find that G4 is valid for all the listed firmware types:\n\n\n\n Pause the machine for a period of time.\n\n\nFurthermore it states that:\n\n\n Parameters\n \n \n Pnnn Time to wait, in milliseconds (In Teacup, P0, wait until all previous moves are finished)\n Snnn Time to wait, in seconds (Only on Repetier, Marlin, Smoothieware, and RepRapFirmware 1.16 and later)\n \n\n\nIt clearly shows that the S parameter (which defines the pause in seconds) is only supported by a few firmware types. Do note that this documentation may not be up-to-date, so it is best to look into the source code or the users manual of the particular firmware you are using.\n\n\n\nE.g. if you are using Marlin Firmware, G4 S20 will pause the machine for 20 seconds while G4 P2000 will pause the machine for 2000 milliseconds which is 2 seconds. This means that a different time is requested, to have 20 seconds waiting time you could use G4 P20000\n\nTo answer your question what the actual difference between the 2 commands is:\n\n\nit is either 18 seconds of extra waiting time if your firmware supports the S parameter, or \na firmware that skips or chokes on the command because it is not supported (that also probably depends on your firmware).\n\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n7432,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Arthur Mamou-Mani,1.726248027126092,4.491191602161855,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.880918201452841,G4 S20 vs. G4 P2000,\"Given the Marlin Firmware what is the difference between the following lines of code:\n\n\n G4 S20\n\n\nand\n\n\n G4 P2000\n\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"The code G4 refers to dwell. (From what I'm seeing, it can be written as either G4 or G04). Pis the length of dwell time, usually in milliseconds. The parameter S seems to be invalid, because the only inputs are X (seconds), P (milliseconds), or U (undefined). If you have S20 in your code, it is invalid, whereas P2000 will cause all axes to remain unmoving for 2 seconds before moving on. \n\n(Note: Not all machines will accept X or U.)\n\nEDIT: This answer is specific to non-specific g-code, taken from this Source, since the OP did not state any specifics about their firmware type or equipment used.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7435,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Arthur Mamou-Mani,0.0,3.185067536271683,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Describing G-code by start and end point versus end only,\"Will the two following lines of code behave differently given that the path that they describe is exactly the same (two segments)? \n\nOption 1 (describes separate segments giving the start and end point):\n\nG92 E0\nG1 F0 X14.73 Y-30.28 Z0\nG1 F3000 X-27.15 Y-18.58 Z0 E2.01\nG92 E0\nG1 F0 X-27.15 Y-18.58 Z0\nG1 F3000 X17.65 Y0.51 Z0 E2.26\n\n\nOption 2 (describes end points only):\n\nG92 E0\nG1 F0 X14.73 Y-30.28 Z0\nG1 F3000 X-27.15 Y-18.58 Z0 E2.01\nG1 F3000 X17.65 Y0.51 Z0 E2.26\n\n\",0scar,\"You should never use a feed rate of zero to start a command with. Theoretically, the other way around would work as the feed rate specified in the command is the feed rate at the end of the operation, but that is theoretically; if you look into the Marlin Firmware sources you will find the following C-code for the G0 and G1 commands in the function void gcode_get_destination():\n\nif (parser.linearval('F') > 0)\n feedrate_mm_s = MMM_TO_MMS(parser.value_feedrate());\n\n\nFrom the first code line you read that the value for the feed rate is only parsed as the value is larger than 0. As there is no prior code shown or feed rate set, the command will not be executed.\n\n\n\nSome extra information from G0 & G1: Move describing the usage of the feed rate:\n\n\n Most RepRap firmwares do subtle things with feedrates.\n\nG1 F1500 ; Set feedrate to 1500mm/m \nG1 X50 Y25.3 E22.4 ;\n \n Move and extrude In the above example, we first set the feedrate to\n 1500mm/m, then move to 50mm on X and 25.3mm on Y while extruding\n 22.4mm of filament between the two points.\n \n G1 F1500 ; Feedrate 1500mm/m \nG1 X50 Y25.3 E22.4 F3000 ; Accelerate to 3000mm/m However, in the above example, we set a\n feedrate of 1500 mm/m, then do the same move, but accelerating to 3000\n mm/m. Everything stays synchronized, so extrusion accelerates right\n along with X and Y movement.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7440,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Arthur Mamou-Mani,1.726248027126092,3.8364869557858974,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.0,What defines the speed at which a motor is retracting and how can it be changed?,\"Given a Marlin firmware and a line of G-code such as the following:\n\n\n G1 F100 X50 Y50 Z0 E-10\n\n\nWhat defines the speed at which the stepper motor associated with the E-value is retracting? It is my understanding that the Feed Rate defines the speed of the movement (in this case 100mm/m) but I am not clear how I could accelerate a retraction? \n\nThe reason I am asking is that I am not seeing a swift removal of material as i retract. Could the slow feed rate be the issue? I am using a pellet printer (WASP 3MT) and generating G-code from polylines on Silkworm.\n\",0scar,\"You instruct the printer to move from a certain X-Y position instructed by the previous move, to X=50 and Y=50. While moving at a feedrate of 100 mm/min, it will also retract 10 mm of filament (if the previous extruder distance was 0) during that move. If the movement distance is large, the retraction is slow. If you started from X,Y = 49.99,49.99 it would be very fast.\n\nIf you want a fast retraction, first move to a position, and than retract fast, so in separate commands. Do note that we usually do it the other way around: first retract fast and then move, this way there is less oozing of the nozzle.\n\nTo sum up, in your G-code command, the speed of retraction depends on the path of travel (the length and speed defined by the feed rate F). If it is fast retraction you are after, you should split the command into two separate commands.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n7440,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Arthur Mamou-Mani,1.726248027126092,3.8364869557858974,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.0,What defines the speed at which a motor is retracting and how can it be changed?,\"Given a Marlin firmware and a line of G-code such as the following:\n\n\n G1 F100 X50 Y50 Z0 E-10\n\n\nWhat defines the speed at which the stepper motor associated with the E-value is retracting? It is my understanding that the Feed Rate defines the speed of the movement (in this case 100mm/m) but I am not clear how I could accelerate a retraction? \n\nThe reason I am asking is that I am not seeing a swift removal of material as i retract. Could the slow feed rate be the issue? I am using a pellet printer (WASP 3MT) and generating G-code from polylines on Silkworm.\n\",mbuc91,\"It seems like you are particularly talking about your extruder, please correct me if I have misread.\n\nIn the command G1 F100 X50 Y50 Z0 E-10:\n\n\nG1 - move linearly\nF100 - Use a feed rate of 100 mm/minute\nX50 Y50 Z0 - tells those axes to move to (50, 50, 0) (absolute positioning)\nE-10 - tells the extruder to retract 10mm (relative positioning)\n\n\nIf you are not experiencing high enough retraction speed:\n\n\nTry increasing the retraction speed in your slicer.\nTry increasing the max acceleration for the E axis using M201 (e.g. M201 E10000 sets to 10,000 mm/s).\nTry increasing the max feed rate for the E axis using M203 (e.g. M203 E25 sets to 25 mm/s).\n\n\nNotes:\n\n\nIf you're able to connect to your printer over USB, and you aren't already using an interface to control it, something like Pronterface might make it easier to test retraction speeds.\nIf this is the correct firmware for your printer, it looks like it is able to save changed values to the EEPROM. They may be using a modified Marlin firmware. If so, EEPROM can be saved with M500, loaded with M501, and reset with M502.\nIf your firmware limits what you can set with M201 and M203, you may want to download the firmware and try to edit its maximum accel/feedrate before flashing.\n\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7509,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Arthur Mamou-Mani,1.0891412423578797,3.25325199599518,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.306096197889172,\"When dwelling G4, my printer is oozing, how can i stop that?\",\"Here is the sequence of my Gcode, printed in mid-air:\n\nPrint (E20)\nRetract (E-20)\nDwell (G4 10,000)\nMove away (E0)\nPrint (E20)\n\n\nSee the path on the printscreen below:\n\n\nWhen the printer dwells it oozes. How can i stop that?\n\nI am using a WASP 3MT, pellet extrustion, 3mm nozzle, Marlin firmware, Gcode done on Silkworm for Grasshopper.\n\nGcode around the dwell:\n\nG1 F300 X-25 Y-25 Z30 E15.96\nG92 E0\nG1 F0 X-25 Y-25 Z30\nG1 F1000 X-25 Y-25 Z36 E-89.42\nG92 E0\nG4 P10000 \nG1 F0 X-25 Y-25 Z36\nG1 F1000 X-25 Y-25 Z32 E0\nG92 E0\n\n\",Trish,\"You retract the filament, yet you keep the heater on while the dwell. As you pull the filament back, you pull only the non-molten filament. The retaining molten filament follows gravity and sags down.\n\nIt is fixable to some degree though: Turn off the heat to let the filament cool before having the machine hibernate. That can reduce the amount of oozing, but not fully.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7509,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Arthur Mamou-Mani,1.0891412423578797,3.25325199599518,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.306096197889172,\"When dwelling G4, my printer is oozing, how can i stop that?\",\"Here is the sequence of my Gcode, printed in mid-air:\n\nPrint (E20)\nRetract (E-20)\nDwell (G4 10,000)\nMove away (E0)\nPrint (E20)\n\n\nSee the path on the printscreen below:\n\n\nWhen the printer dwells it oozes. How can i stop that?\n\nI am using a WASP 3MT, pellet extrustion, 3mm nozzle, Marlin firmware, Gcode done on Silkworm for Grasshopper.\n\nGcode around the dwell:\n\nG1 F300 X-25 Y-25 Z30 E15.96\nG92 E0\nG1 F0 X-25 Y-25 Z30\nG1 F1000 X-25 Y-25 Z36 E-89.42\nG92 E0\nG4 P10000 \nG1 F0 X-25 Y-25 Z36\nG1 F1000 X-25 Y-25 Z32 E0\nG92 E0\n\n\",user77232,\"Ooze is virtually unstoppable. This becomes apparent once you understand why an nozzle oozes. As the filament melts, its viscosity drops and the free flowing filament slowly makes it way out of the nozzle due to the action of gravity (and sometimes thermal expansion). If you make the throat air tight then you can use air pressure to keep the plastic from oozing out. Further you would have to immediately turn off the heat to the nozzle and cool the nozzle as fast as possible (possibly with a blower). Even if you retract the filament all the way out of the throat, there could still be some plastic left inside that will ooze out. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n8226,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Arthur Mamou-Mani,1.0891412423578797,2.663475740203885,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How to make sure we reach the total feedrate despite jerk,\"When printing a G-code at a high speed/feedrate of 12,000 mm/min versus a slower speed we don't always notice a difference since the geometry does not always allow for the full speed to be reached due to the acceleration/deceleration taking most of the length of the segments. \n\nIs the above a correct statement and is there a way to find the sweet spot between length and fastest speed in relation to the jerk values?\n\",Nach0z,\"The simple answer is that there's no way to guarantee you reach a specific maximum speed, with a given acceleration limit. You have to accelerate and decelerate along the length of a line, so the distance you're accelerating is roughly half the length of the total line. Imagine you can only accelerate at 50 mm/s2, and you've got a line that allows you to reach exactly 100 mm/s before you start decelerating. If you have to print a shorter line, you're going to reach a lower speed. Any combination of maximum speed and maximum acceleration can be defeated just by printing a shorter line than you tested with. \n\nAs far as a sweet spot goes, I'm not sure quite what you're asking there. There are tradeoffs to be considered for any combination of speed, jerk, and acceleration.\n\nPrints with high jerk settings will be able to \"\"skip\"\" a certain portion of the acceleration and just jump straight to some minimum speed. This tends to result in echo artifacts on the print around corners.\n\nPrints with low acceleration settings tend to exhibit some irregularities in line width over the length of the line due to the interaction between pressure and extrusion rate inside the extruder. I went into some detail on the third section of this previous answer of how and why this happens.\n\nPrints with high top speeds, but low acceleration and jerk, can suffer from under-extrusion if you set your maximum speed too high, and it can be a little difficult to diagnose this in some cases. If you think of the extruder as having an internal \"\"buffer\"\" of molten plastic, that buffer tends to fill at low print speeds, and empty at higher print speeds. You may think you've got your maximum speed set appropriately, when in reality your extruder drains the buffer over maybe 50 mm of max speed printing (hypothetical nonsensical number), and attempting to print very long straight lines may result in the extruder emptying its buffer until it slows down again. My recommendation is to do some trial and error testing to figure out the fastest extrusion rate your printer can support for an extended period of time, and then put that maximum limit into your printer firmware to prevent printing too quickly. Acceleration and jerk settings should be set as high as you can tolerate without causing echoes and other odd artifacts, with attention paid to the printer itself; it gains you nothing to shake your frame to pieces trying to chase some theoretical maximum printing speed limit.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7424,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Moana Springfeild,2.528907649931287,3.9583220392252736,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Calibrating E steps for new filament,\"Is it a good idea or do I need to calibrate my E steps after I switch to a new filament due to the different types I use (to make my prints accurate)?\n\nE.g. calibrate when switching from PLA to ABS/PETG? \n\",Trish,\"No, it is not a good idea to recalibrate the machine for each filament. Instead, use a different profile and adjust the flow multiplier to adjust to different polymers.\n\nwhy\n\nSteps/mm is a mechanical setting that is dependent only on the extruder gear. The diameter of the filament is independent of this: one rotation of the extruder still has the same length of filament moved.\n\nTo adjust for manufacturing differences, you adjust the filament diameter accordingly in the slicer. This is independent of the filament type.\n\nHowever filaments behave differently on heating: if we assume PLA as a baseline \"\"100%\"\", then HIPS will need about 150% of the material input for the same print results because it behaves differently in the hotend.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7424,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Moana Springfeild,2.528907649931287,3.9583220392252736,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Calibrating E steps for new filament,\"Is it a good idea or do I need to calibrate my E steps after I switch to a new filament due to the different types I use (to make my prints accurate)?\n\nE.g. calibrate when switching from PLA to ABS/PETG? \n\",0scar,\"No that will not be necessary.\n\nHowever, you could use calipers to measure the diameter of the filaments (e.g. at 5 positions over a few meters) and calculate the mean diameter, if there is a significant difference between the new and the currently used filament you could change the diameter in the slicer (or the flow modifier), you do not need to calibrate the steps per millimeter every time you change filament. \n\nYou only need to calibrate the steps per millimeter if you change something in the extruder hardware setup, e.g. different extruder, different stepper driver, a new gear, etc. As long as the hardware is not changed a calibrated extruder setup will move a certain amount of filament regardless of the diameter variation (per rotation of the extruder gear an amount of $2 \\times \\pi \\times (gear\\ radius)$ mm of filament.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n8406,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Moana Springfeild,1.0891412423578797,2.4894835185571664,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Cause of slicing artifacts layers not connecting diagonal errors,\"Sometimes my meshes turn out with artifacts Which can be seen in the bottom image. What is the cause? The first image shows my mesh which its generated from.\nI've tried multiple slicers. This tends to occur sometimes.\nAny help appreciated. Is there something going over my head???\n\n\n\n\n\",Trish,\"The artifacts you spot in your slices do not come from the slicer, they are actually present in the STL file you export.\n\nI suggest checking your model for problems like vertices that share a position or edges that are parallel but not joined. Use the remove doubles function in blender to merge up these vertices. Then make sure that your surface consists of only squares and triangles to aid the stl generation.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8406,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Moana Springfeild,1.0891412423578797,2.4894835185571664,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Cause of slicing artifacts layers not connecting diagonal errors,\"Sometimes my meshes turn out with artifacts Which can be seen in the bottom image. What is the cause? The first image shows my mesh which its generated from.\nI've tried multiple slicers. This tends to occur sometimes.\nAny help appreciated. Is there something going over my head???\n\n\n\n\n\",Moana Springfeild,\"The issue was solved by disabling coasting in the options within the slicer\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10459,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Moana Springfeild,2.8153892694839717,3.4153416935671306,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,3.749318730431847,3.206343760378365,Why do different drivers change the noise of steppers?,\"I've upgraded my stepper drivers.\n\nI'm looking to understand why my stepper motors made noise in the first place.\n\",0scar,\"To make a stepper perform a step, block signals are send to energize the coils to position the rotor. Such a block signal causes abrupt motion and triggers harmonic frequencies. This is audible as stepper noise. If the block signal is smoothed, the motion is more fluent and less noise will be observed. A similar effect is achieved using micro-stepping. \n\nIt could be that the new stepper drivers use more/less microsteps1) or a smoothed/block1) signal opposed to the previous drivers, hence less/more1) noise.\n\n\n\n1) The question does not state if the noise is reduced or increased, but noise reduction is most probable\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10459,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Moana Springfeild,2.8153892694839717,3.4153416935671306,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,3.749318730431847,3.206343760378365,Why do different drivers change the noise of steppers?,\"I've upgraded my stepper drivers.\n\nI'm looking to understand why my stepper motors made noise in the first place.\n\",towe,\"Stepper motors contain two distinct sets of coils. The current in these coils is governed by your stepper motor driver.\n\n\n\nTo move the motor in either direction, the coils are being driven one after another, and in different directions.\nImagine this being a normal 3-phase AC motor, but instead of three phases, only two are used.\n\nA \"\"full steps\"\" (1/1 \"\"microstepping\"\") would mean switching one coil off and the other on - resulting in a jerky motion to the next position. Real stepper motors have multiple sets of those coils (rather than two like in the diagram) - usually 200 or 400, giving 1.8° or 0.9° of rotation per \"\"full step\"\".\n\nSuch motion is usually not desired, since the immediate movement of the motor creates noise and vibration.\nIf both coils are driven with less current (71% of the full current, the reciprocal of the square root of 2, so that the total force on the motor remains the same) during the switch from one current to the other, another position can be achieved - a \"\"half step\"\" between two full steps.\n\nThis can be repeated for higher number of \"\"microsteps\"\", with 16 being the usual compromise.\n\nOptimal smoothness - and next to no noise - would be achieved by driving the stepper motor with pure sine waves. The closer a stepper driver can get to that pure sine wave, the lower the noise made by the stepper motor will be:\n\n\n\nSome stepper motor drivers, most notably the TMC family of chips, can generate 256 microsteps internally, approximating a sine wave quite well.\n\nOther stepper motor drivers (like the LV8729) can also handle 128 microsteps, but they require the printer control board to send an individual step signal for each of those steps - which may limit speed because of the additional load on the board's MCU.\n\",3.2133663407215876,0.0\n7425,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ASRICK,2.1782824847157594,4.422085917526186,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,\"Help to reconcile nozzle diameter, deposited line width, and wall thickness in Cura\",\"I need help resolving some conflicting logic between the nozzle width and shell thickness--parameters in Cura 16.021--and the physical deposited line width (width on x-y plane).\n\nDEFINITIONS\n\nFor clarity, let me define a few terms I'm using:\n\nNozzle size - nominal diameter of the nozzle / Cura parameter\n\nNozzle diameter - true diameter of the nozzle\n\nExtrusion diameter - diameter of circular cross-section extrusion upon leaving the nozzle\n\nDeposited line width - width of the rectilinear layer deposited on the build surface in the x-y plane (not the z-layer height).\n\nShell thickness - Cura parameter for part wall thickness \n\nCura - Cura version 16.021\n\n\nPROBLEM 1\n\nPhysics suggests that for regular continuous flow out of the nozzle the extrusion diameter (cylindrical material extrusion) would be slightly larger than the nozzle diameter, and the deposited line width (rectangular prismatic extrusion) on the x-y plane should be even wider than the extrusion diameter. I'm assuming the deposited line width is equal to the shell thickness as set in Cura. However, I am finding conflicting advice as to whether one should set the shell thickness slightly greater than or slightly less than the nozzle diameter. \n\nIn this post on the Ultimaker forum, the moderator seems to suggest that the nozzle size and deposited line width are one and the same.\n\nIn this post on StackExchange, the discussion seems to agree with my understanding.\n\nPROBLEM 2\n\nA commonly referenced procedure for calibrating extrusion suggests printing a 25mm cube with an open top and bottom. My understanding is that by printing four walls of a single shell thickness, we should correct the extrusion rate to achieve a deposited line width equal to nozzle diameter (Cura requires the shell thickness to be a multiple of nozzle diameter) . The problem I have with this is, as stated above, I don't understand a physical basis for targeting nozzle size = shell thickness (deposited line width). I'd expect to calibrate the extrusion to something slightly wider than the nozzle diameter.\n\n\n\nMy printing experience seems to confirm my intuition. If I reduce extrusion rate to achieve shell thickness = nozzle diameter my prints appear visually under-extruded with poor layer adhesion. Calibrating to about 110% of the nozzle size looks about right. \n\nPROBLEM 3\n\n\n\nAlthough Cura constrains shell thickness to be a multiple of nozzle size, it will not slice thin shapes on the x-y plane equal to nozzle size, they need to be slightly wider. I have verified this multiple times by designing a part in SolidWorks with a 0.4mm wall, exporting it to Cura as an STL, and previewing the slices (using a 0.4 mm nozzle size). If I increase the wall thickness in the model to 0.41mm, Cura will slice the wall. This seems to suggest to me that Cura does account for a deposited line width > nozzle diameter. It calls to question whether the shell thickness is actually a physical dimension for the 3D print or just a parameter for the slicer engine. I have taken it to mean the number of passes around the perimeter in units of nozzle size, similar to other slicers that ask for a shell count.\n\nThanks in advance to anyone who has put in the time to read this post and kindly share some knowledge. \n\nEDIT 1: My interchanging of terms \"\"width\"\" and \"\"thickness\"\" made it sound like I'm referring to z-layer height. Also, Trish pointed out that \"\"line width\"\" is the better term rather than \"\"layer width\"\" so I have updated this. My post is only concerned with the deposited layer width in the x-y plane--\"\"line width\"\". \n\",Carl Witthoft,\"There may be die swell, which will depend on the extrusion force, the material type, and the exact temperature within the hot end. This is because the viscosity is highly dependent on those parameters.\n\nAs to line width: again extruded temperature, material, ambient temperature, cooling fan coverage all play into how much \"\"sag\"\" takes place before the material hardens. Oh, and X-Y speed of the nozzle, of course. \n\nFurther, for the first layer, if the nozzle is nice and close to the bed, the nozzle itself will force the material to spread laterally while limiting the vertical extent. \n\nPersonally, I don't think it's worth the effort to create a mathematical model. Spend the 3 cents' worth of electricity, 0.01 cents' worth of material, and 15 minutes of time to calibrate if desired. \n\",0.0,0.0\n7425,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ASRICK,2.1782824847157594,4.422085917526186,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,\"Help to reconcile nozzle diameter, deposited line width, and wall thickness in Cura\",\"I need help resolving some conflicting logic between the nozzle width and shell thickness--parameters in Cura 16.021--and the physical deposited line width (width on x-y plane).\n\nDEFINITIONS\n\nFor clarity, let me define a few terms I'm using:\n\nNozzle size - nominal diameter of the nozzle / Cura parameter\n\nNozzle diameter - true diameter of the nozzle\n\nExtrusion diameter - diameter of circular cross-section extrusion upon leaving the nozzle\n\nDeposited line width - width of the rectilinear layer deposited on the build surface in the x-y plane (not the z-layer height).\n\nShell thickness - Cura parameter for part wall thickness \n\nCura - Cura version 16.021\n\n\nPROBLEM 1\n\nPhysics suggests that for regular continuous flow out of the nozzle the extrusion diameter (cylindrical material extrusion) would be slightly larger than the nozzle diameter, and the deposited line width (rectangular prismatic extrusion) on the x-y plane should be even wider than the extrusion diameter. I'm assuming the deposited line width is equal to the shell thickness as set in Cura. However, I am finding conflicting advice as to whether one should set the shell thickness slightly greater than or slightly less than the nozzle diameter. \n\nIn this post on the Ultimaker forum, the moderator seems to suggest that the nozzle size and deposited line width are one and the same.\n\nIn this post on StackExchange, the discussion seems to agree with my understanding.\n\nPROBLEM 2\n\nA commonly referenced procedure for calibrating extrusion suggests printing a 25mm cube with an open top and bottom. My understanding is that by printing four walls of a single shell thickness, we should correct the extrusion rate to achieve a deposited line width equal to nozzle diameter (Cura requires the shell thickness to be a multiple of nozzle diameter) . The problem I have with this is, as stated above, I don't understand a physical basis for targeting nozzle size = shell thickness (deposited line width). I'd expect to calibrate the extrusion to something slightly wider than the nozzle diameter.\n\n\n\nMy printing experience seems to confirm my intuition. If I reduce extrusion rate to achieve shell thickness = nozzle diameter my prints appear visually under-extruded with poor layer adhesion. Calibrating to about 110% of the nozzle size looks about right. \n\nPROBLEM 3\n\n\n\nAlthough Cura constrains shell thickness to be a multiple of nozzle size, it will not slice thin shapes on the x-y plane equal to nozzle size, they need to be slightly wider. I have verified this multiple times by designing a part in SolidWorks with a 0.4mm wall, exporting it to Cura as an STL, and previewing the slices (using a 0.4 mm nozzle size). If I increase the wall thickness in the model to 0.41mm, Cura will slice the wall. This seems to suggest to me that Cura does account for a deposited line width > nozzle diameter. It calls to question whether the shell thickness is actually a physical dimension for the 3D print or just a parameter for the slicer engine. I have taken it to mean the number of passes around the perimeter in units of nozzle size, similar to other slicers that ask for a shell count.\n\nThanks in advance to anyone who has put in the time to read this post and kindly share some knowledge. \n\nEDIT 1: My interchanging of terms \"\"width\"\" and \"\"thickness\"\" made it sound like I'm referring to z-layer height. Also, Trish pointed out that \"\"line width\"\" is the better term rather than \"\"layer width\"\" so I have updated this. My post is only concerned with the deposited layer width in the x-y plane--\"\"line width\"\". \n\",ASRICK,\"So, I think I may have found a satisfactory answer. Cura 3.6 includes separate parameters for line width and shell count:\n\n \n\nThis seems to decouple the line width from the specified nozzle size and target what I believe is a more optimal width (~110% the nozzle diameter). It was the other version of Cura that was driving a lot of confusion with the line width being defined by the nozzle size. This also removes the weirdness of not being able slice lines equal to the line width.\n\nThanks to all who responded.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7436,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,fsinisi90,1.726248027126092,4.444181511591763,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Strategy to stream large gcode file from serial port,\"I'm connecting to a printer that's using Marlin 1.0.3 dev firmware through the pyserial Python package.\n\nI want to stream large gcode files into the printer and I guess that the buffer has a limited size. How do I know when the buffer is full, so I can wait until a command is processed to send a new one?\n\nI've tried reading a big file, sending all the commands and checking for the printer responses in another thread. I didn't get an error or something that indicates that the buffer is full. I've also didn't found anything about this in the official docs.\n\nIt's my approach correct? Is there something I'm missing?\n\nSome of the code:\n\ndef check_for_responses():\n while(True):\n response = printer_connection.serial.readline()\n print(response)\n\n\nasync def stream_gcode():\n await printer_connection.open_connection('COM7')\n Thread(target=check_for_responses).start()\n asyncio.sleep(2) # wait to initialize\n file = open(\"\"test.gcode\"\", 'r')\n for line in file:\n command= printer_connection.format_command(line)\n printer_connection.serial.write(command.encode())\n\nasyncio.new_event_loop().run_until_complete(stream_gcode())\n\n\",fsinisi90,\"Well, after some research I found something about Buffering on the RepRap documentation. I didn't see it before.\n\nWorks like this:\n\n\nYou send a command. An \"\"ok\"\" response it's received immediatly, that means that the command was successsfuly added to the buffer.\nThen you can send another command. When the buffer is full, the \"\"ok\"\" response will be delayed until a new command it's received.\n\n\nSome commands, for example M190: Wait for bed temperature to reach target temp will cause that the \"\"ok\"\" response will be delayed until the command finish his execution. That means that the printer won't accept more commands in the meantime.\n\nI still have to check how many commands the buffer can save approximately, and if it's convenient to fill it entirely. I guess not, because let's say you want to pause the print. If you added a lot of commands to the buffer, you'll not able to pause it until all of them finished.\n\nThis thread on the RepRap forum was also useful.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n7477,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,fsinisi90,2.528907649931287,4.566191788635222,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,How to enable EMERGENCY_PARSER in Marlin firmware?,\"In the documentation of some commands of the Marlin firmware (like M112 - Emergency Stop), it says that the EMERGENCY_PARSER should be enabled to execute them instantaneously.\n\nThe thing is, I didn't find any information there of how to enable that EMERGENCY_PARSER or how it works.\n\nAny help will be appreciated.\n\",0scar,\"The constant EMERGENCY_PARSER is located in the advanced printer configuration file Marlin/Configuration_adv.h:\n\n\n// Enable an emergency-command parser to intercept certain commands as they\n// enter the serial receive buffer, so they cannot be blocked.\n// Currently handles M108, M112, M410\n// Does not work on boards using AT90USB (USBCON) processors!\n//#define EMERGENCY_PARSER\n\n\nTo enable the EMERGENCY_PARSER, you need to remove the // before #define EMERGENCY_PARSER and recompile the sources.\n\nNormally your printer will execute a command until it is ready to accept a next instruction. Without the EMERGENCY_PARSER set, the printer finishes the instruction that it is executing at the moment, if set, the execution is interrupted and immediately sent and thus not waiting for a clear space in the buffer.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n7446,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sava,1.0891412423578797,3.3468467879848673,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Density of GEL-LAY and LAYWOO 3D print material?,\"I'm looking for the specific density of the GEL-LAY and LAYWOO 3D materials by manufacturer CC Products.\n\nIt isn't noted on their website or on the spool or the box the spools came in. I've looked for hours on Google and various websites, from resellers to people who tested it, without being able to find it.\n\",mbmcavoy,\"I can't provide the end answer, but if you already have the material, you should be able to measure this yourself quite simply.\n\nMeasure and cut a sample of filament, and weigh it. For example, a 10 meter length with a 1.75 mm diameter will have a volume of:\n\n\n v = pi * r2 * l\n \n v = pi * (0.175 cm/2)2 * 1000 cm\n \n v = 24.05 cm3\n\n\nDensity is mass divided by volume. If your sample weighs 18 g, this would be\n\n\n d = m / v\n \n d = 18.0 g / 24.05 cm3\n \n d = 0.748 g/cm3\n\n\nNote that the accuracy of this measurement will depend on the accuracy and precision of your measurements. A household kitchen scale might not be good enough for such small weights. In order to get a good weight measurement, you may need to use a much longer (and heavier) sample of filament.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n7446,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sava,1.0891412423578797,3.3468467879848673,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Density of GEL-LAY and LAYWOO 3D print material?,\"I'm looking for the specific density of the GEL-LAY and LAYWOO 3D materials by manufacturer CC Products.\n\nIt isn't noted on their website or on the spool or the box the spools came in. I've looked for hours on Google and various websites, from resellers to people who tested it, without being able to find it.\n\",0scar,\"Indeed, the properties of this filament are kept rather secret, so to find out what the density is, you need to either contact the filament supplier or the manufacturer for accessing the data sheet or calculate this yourself. The answer below expands on the \"\"calculate it yourself\"\".\n\nDensity is defined as $\\rho = \\frac{m}{V}=\\frac{[kg]}{[m^3]}$. The use of this formula has been show in this answer. The drawback of that answer is that it is an approximation that relies on a uniform piece of filament that requires cutting off expensive filament and relies on assumptions rather than actual calculations. Furthermore, the weighing of a small piece of filament is much less accurate of a small piece than for a larger piece or the whole spool (for the same scale, so a decent kitchen scale might be usable when more weight is concerned). You could improve the density calculation by measuring the diameter at various sections and make a better approximation based on the average diameter, but still that would need you to unroll the spool and carefully measure a piece of filament (and cut it). The advantage of that answer is that it is far easier than my proposition.\n\nThe method that is proposed here relies on a well known method to calculate the density of materials that is called hydrostatic weighing. Hydrostatic weighing uses the displacement of a fluid due to a submerged object to determine the density of the object. Any submerged object will displace the fluid surrounding it by it's own volume, as such you would need to measure the rise of the volume level to read the volume of the submerged product. This can be done accurately by using methods that include containers of known dimensions, known fluids and even an overflow method and weighing.\n\nIf the filament comes on a spool, you would require an identical spool to prevent removing it from the spool. But, I read that it is sold in bundles, not on spools. Without a spool would make it even easier to calculate the density as you do not have to subtract the spool weight and volume, the answer continues as if you have it on a spool. This is purely necessary so that you would not need to cut off filament or unroll the whole spool. The suggestion below let's you measure the whole spool, so weight is measured more easily as there is a lot more. \n\nTheoretically, you could put the filament in a fluid which is known to not affect the filament properties (so not water for GEL-LAY!) in a bath of known dimensions. Once the spool and filament are completely submerged, you could measure the volume rise. If you do the same for the empty spool, you also know the volume of the spool alone. If you also are able to weigh the empty spool and the full spool (before you plunged them in the \"\"bathtub\"\"/container), you now know the volume and the weight of the filament, dividing the weight (full spool weight minus empty spool weight) by the volume (full spool submerged volume minus empty spool submerged volume) will give you the density.\n\n$$\\rho_{filament} = \\frac{(m_{full\\ spool}-m_{empty\\ spool})}{(V_{full\\ spool}-V_{empty\\ spool})}$$\n\n\nNow let your filament dry for a long, long time! :)\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7447,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sava,2.1782824847157594,2.541486592782186,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Does GEL-LAY needs to stay moist?,\"POROLAY GEL-LAY is a kind of jelly-like material made by exotic filament producer Kay Parthy / CC Products.\n\nIt is a mix of TPE and PVA that is supposed to have a jelly-like feeling. Once printed, you need to let your print soak in water for several days to remove all of the PVA, then what's left should have a jelly-like feeling since the PVA will have left many micro-cavities in the object.\n\nHowever, my initial tests end up producing prints that feel a bit like jelly when wet, but reverts to a sort of cardboard feeling once dry.\n\nDoes this material needs to stay moist to keep the jelly feeling or not?\n\",0scar,\"No, GEL-LAY should not be kept moist to stay flexible. It is made from TPE and filled with small PVA particles. It is advised to print less than normal amount of walls and infill so that the PVA can be rinsed out more easily. \n\nIf you look at the way the manufacturer rinses the material, you frequently see ultrasonic baths that improve the dissolving of the PVA. Once the PVA is removed, TPE is all that it left, which is elastic. If your print is still hard after drying it means that not all the PVA has dissolved yet, once dry it will become gluey/sticky again like PVA, hence the cardboard structure.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n7606,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sava,2.8153892694839717,5.9843161428798055,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.749318730431847,4.208576161768494,Settings for vase mode in CURA?,\"I keep hearing about vase mode, but I have some problem figuring out how to set it up in my slicer; I use CURA.\n\nSo, I'd like to get some settings to do it in Ultimaker Cura, using PLA if the material is important, plus any advice on how to properly do it and ensure that the print retains it's shape on print.\n\",Trish,\"Vase Mode changed the name in some version before 3.5. Now you can achieve this with 2 modes: \"\"Surface Mode\"\" and \"\"Spiralize Outer Contour\"\". To turn it on do this:\n\n\nChoose the Custom setting menu on the right\nclick a gear to set up what settings you want to see\nUnder the header \"\"Special Modes\"\" you find both Surface Mode and Spiralize Outer Contour\nset the checkmarks on both\n\n\nTurning on the Surface mode to Surface and checking Spiralize Outer Contour gets the \"\"classic\"\" Vase Mode.\n\nTurning on Surface without Spiralize Outer Contour gets an infill-less outer perimeter\n\nNow, the classic Vase mode will only print the single most outer perimeter of a print, so your model will have to be very limited with angles and contain no bridges - with one perimeter, you will only be able to print at best 45° angles!\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n7796,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sava,2.528907649931287,3.2591265203387754,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,How to print a voxel object?,\"I recently downloaded Magicavoxel to give this voxel thing a try, and I was curious if there was a way to turn the voxel files into a file for printing?\n\nMagicavoxel doesn't seem to offer a way to export the project as STL.\n\",Trish,\"Magicavoxel supports export as .obj, natively or with the right plugin.\n\nWhile .stl is the standard for 3d-printing exchanges, as it contains a \"\"1-unit\"\" length,(typically that corresponds to 1 mm), .obj is also accepted by most slicers.\n\nTo get to MagicaVoxel's native export, look in the lower right corner, click export and see this pop up:\n\n\n\nPress the top-left OBJ option and you get a save position window where you can store it. Then open it with your slicer and choose a scale - most .obj files do not contain a scale as the format does not contain a unit measure by default like .stl and has to be given one.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n10867,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sava,1.0891412423578797,2.1458628965297364,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,What kind of paint and varnish can be used with ABS?,\"I know that acrylic paint, the same kind that is used to paint miniature figurines, works best for PLA. Does it works on ABS pieces as well? Can I also use the same kind of varnish that is used for miniatures on my painted ABS prints? If not, what kind of paint and varnish works on ABS prints?\n\",cmm,\"ABS is more soluble in solvents than is PLA. Acetone will dissolve it, which can be a benefit because it allows vapor smoothing, but can be a problem with some paints which have solvents other than water. Try out any new paint on a scrap piece. Apply a thick dot of the paint, let it sit for a couple of minutes, and then wipe it off. If there is a change in the shape or color where the dot had been, the paint may be dissolving the ABS.\n\nAcrylic has a water base and does not attack ABS.\n\nA paint that attacks ABS may be fine, but there may be some color bleeding of the ABS color into the paint. A translucent (or clear) ABS would minimize the problem, since does not contain any pigment.\n\nSpray painting may work better because the paint is undisturbed once applied. Brushing on paint will mix the dissolved layer with the unaltered paint.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7464,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,NXSmiggy,1.726248027126092,4.251770213416618,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Anet A8 with 3DTouch does not home X in the center,\"Working on getting my Anet A8 upgraded with some extra toys and although the sensor works, I can't get it to home correctly. I'm looking for some assistance to home the X in the center.\n\nThe probe is working and showing results, but when homing, it does not home to center (SAFE_HOME is turned on, Y homes to center but X is about 3/4 from endstop) and the Z offset always reports as 0 when using M851. There is a clear gap of about 10 mm between the bed and the nozzle after G29 is ran.\n\nI'm using the following mount: \n\n\nBed is anycubic ultrabase 220*220\n\nI have been using a combination of E3D configuration documents, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WWDkZtWwd6I and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_1Kg45APko to try and get it working.\n\nI've posted my Configuration.h here to see if anyone can spot what I've done wrong and possible explain it to me so I can learn.\n\",0scar,\"Your sensor offset for the X direction is incorrect.\n\n#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -28 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]\n\nshould be \n\n#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 28 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]\n\nThe hints in the comment already suggest that (left is negative, right is positive), your touch sensor clearly is located on the right side, hence +28 mm.\n\nSee also this hint in the configuration file:\n\n\n * +-- BACK ---+\n * | |\n * L | (+) P | R -- probe (20,20)\n * E | | I\n * F | (-) N (+) | G -- nozzle (10,10)\n * T | | H\n * | (-) | T\n * | |\n * O-- FRONT --+\n * (0,0)\n\n\nAlso, #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -1.05 is not really necessary. Many prefer this to be 0 and set the value later by using M815 Z-1.05 (sent over USB or \"\"printed\"\" from .gcode file over SD card)\n\nYou also have not set the boundaries for the sensor to reach, I quote:\n\n// Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).\n//#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE\n//#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n//#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE\n//#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n\n\nThis can be found in How to set the boundaries for BLTouch probing.\n\nAfter a G29, the head is raised as instructed by the configuration file to employ clearance.\n\nAn M851 will report the actual value it is set to, if you have not set it (by using M851 Z-x.xx, or set it through the display using the menu) then it will report 0, that is correct.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n7472,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,NXSmiggy,2.528907649931287,3.9583220392252736,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"Bed heating from Pronterface works, but not from LCD menu nor from SD print\",\"Running my Ultrabase (glass plate) through a MOSFET on an stock A8 board with Marlin 1.1.8. When I do PID tune through Pronterface (by using the M303 E-1 C8 S70 command) the bed heats up no problem and completes the tune, but when printing from SD or using the Preheat PLA command on the printer to heat the bed, nothing happens and then I get \"\"Bed heating failed\"\".\n\nAs its working through Pronterface I know the wiring is okay.\n\nConfiguration.h\n\nConfiguration_adv.h\n\nAnet A8 Stock Board\nUltrabase 220x200 12v\nPID Values extracted from Pronterface Via M303 E-1 C8 S70 from cold bed\nMessage take about 1 minute to appear, seems to be a timeout as opposed to an instant error\n\nDisabling PIDTEMPBED and enabling MAX_BED_POWER resolves the issue allowing the printer to heat the bed\n\nThermal protection for bed set to \n\n#define WATCH_BED_TEMP_PERIOD 180 // Seconds\n#define WATCH_BED_TEMP_INCREASE 2 // Degrees Celsius\n\n\nWhen using PIDTEMPBED the LED on the bed does not light, but when using MAX_BED_POWER / PIDTUNE it does\n\",0scar,\"I thought this was an easy problem to fix as the previous Configuration.h you shared had PID incorrectly configured. \n\nI'm guessing that you experience this LCD screen:\n\n\n\nWhat I experienced myself when PID tuning the bed is that it matters whether the bed is preheated or not. At first attempt the command such as the M303 E-1 C8 S70 you used did result a failed PID tuning (note that you should perform the test from a cold bed). \n\nYour PID values:\n\n// PIDTune from Pronterface\n#define DEFAULT_bedKp 305.95\n#define DEFAULT_bedKi 60.24\n#define DEFAULT_bedKd 388.4805\n\n\nare similar results as I have for a 24V 300 x 300 x 3 mm bottom cork insulated heat plate with 3 mm glass.\n\nYou have not added the \"\"Configuration_adv.h\"\", but this file contains the advanced settings for the printer and most probably contain:\n\n\n#if ENABLED(THERMAL_PROTECTION_BED)\n #define THERMAL_PROTECTION_BED_PERIOD 20 // Seconds\n #define THERMAL_PROTECTION_BED_HYSTERESIS 2 // Degrees Celsius\n\n /**\n * As described above, except for the bed (M140/M190/M303).\n */\n #define WATCH_BED_TEMP_PERIOD 60 // Seconds\n #define WATCH_BED_TEMP_INCREASE 2 // Degrees Celsius\n#endif\n\n\nThis describes that the software waits for 60 seconds for the bed to increase 2 °C. If the temperature increase is not observed, there is no heat input to the bed, or it does not reach the set temperature. Please check your values.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7482,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kulfürst,1.726248027126092,3.9811022261621547,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Stuttering extrusion after layer change,\"I am currently encountering a problem where under certain circumstances, the extruder stutters when it starts a new layer. I am printing on an Anycubic i3 Mega and am slicing with Cura 3.6.0. The problem seems to occur in the main part of prints, as well as in supports. However it seems to only occur after a retraction has taken place. I have taken a video of the stuttering which can be found here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/G3TLKveMsLNRQmgv7\nWhen a print is done the stuttering results in walls looking like this:\n\nCan anyone help me figure out what is causing the stuttering?\nThank you very much!\n\",0scar,\"Definition: Sparse layer fill (called stuttering by the OP)\n\n\n\nWhy a sparsely filled support structure... (at the support bottom)\n\nSupport structures are added by Ultimaker Cura as the first part of the layer before it progresses to the rest of the print object. The bottom part of the support structure is definitely showing under extrusion, as if there was not enough filament available to print the support solidly. Actually, that is exactly what is the problem, there is not enough filament available for printing as a result of a retraction and the following extrusion after movement of the filament. The bottom part of the support is most probably printed after the head stopped far from the support (end of the previous layer) while printing your object. This means that the filament needs to be retracted, the head moved to the support structure, filament extruded (de-retracted) and printing of the support structure starting. When retraction is not optimally tuned, the nozzle may not be primed correctly with filament and cause a sparsely printed support structure. A similar reasoning could apply to support structures being printed at the final stage of the layer (as long as there are large movements to the support structure requiring the activation of the retraction).\n\nWhy is the support better printed higher up...\n\nYou see that when Z advances above the thickness of the right part of the print, the support structure is better printed. This could be caused by the fact that the head now doesn't need to move far from the last position of the print to the support structure, this doesn't require a retraction action.\n\nWhat to do to print better support structures...\n\nTry tune your retraction settings, see e.g. this answer shows an image of a calibration print to determine the optimal settings. \n\nNote that you not only can play with the filament retraction settings (Enable Retraction, Retraction Speed and Retraction Distance), the option called Enable Coasting and Coasting Volume can also be used to stop extruding while the printer head prints the rest of the object to use the over-pressure of the molten filament in the nozzle and finally Retraction Extra Prime Amount can extrude some extra filament to prime the nozzle with some extra material so that the nozzle is optimally filled and ready for printing the support after the main print object. Also take care choosing the right Support Speed, too fast will result in lower quality.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7482,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kulfürst,1.726248027126092,3.9811022261621547,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Stuttering extrusion after layer change,\"I am currently encountering a problem where under certain circumstances, the extruder stutters when it starts a new layer. I am printing on an Anycubic i3 Mega and am slicing with Cura 3.6.0. The problem seems to occur in the main part of prints, as well as in supports. However it seems to only occur after a retraction has taken place. I have taken a video of the stuttering which can be found here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/G3TLKveMsLNRQmgv7\nWhen a print is done the stuttering results in walls looking like this:\n\nCan anyone help me figure out what is causing the stuttering?\nThank you very much!\n\",Marcus Adams,\"You retraction settings may be too high. Direct drive extruders require less retraction than Bowden style extruders. Typical retraction settings for direct drive are 1.5mm at 50mm/s and for Bowden, 4mm at 50mm/s. The speed usually makes more of a difference than distance beyond a certain point.\n\nYou can get away with smaller retraction settings if you increase travel speed because there will be less time to ooze. You could also try using Coasting as well.\n\nAnyway, try reducing your retraction settings if they're higher than what I stated above. Another alternative is to set an extra prime distance so that extra filament is extruded after the retraction.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7483,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas Weller,1.726248027126092,4.470585119945735,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,How small may I design objects for the Prusa i3 MK3?,\"I have designed a bread mark and printed it on the Prusa i3 MK3.\n\n\n\nI wanted it to have as sharp edges as possible, so I used a triangle:\n\n\n\nHowever, it seems that the print cut off layers that are too thin (x-y-wise) and instead of a 1 cm high bread mark, I only have 0.5 cm.\n\nWhat is the X-Y-resolution of the Prusa i3 MK3? In Slic3r, can I make sure that any wall is made as thick as needed for it to be printed?\n\nI have the default 0.4 mm nozzle.\n\",Trish,\"The absolute minimum a slicer will allow existing in a g-code is one extrusion diameter, which is typically roundabout a nozzle diameter. So for a standard 0.4 mm nozzle, the model will be cut in a way that keeps at least 0.4 mm thick walls, or, if the slicer is extra careful, double that, as the model demands 2 walls next to each other. The result is, that the model with such sharp walls will be cut till the model does conform to the minimum wall thickness - in your case about half the height of the model. \n\nI strongly encourage to further read What special considerations must be taken when designing parts for 3D printing?\n\",0.0,0.0\n7483,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas Weller,1.726248027126092,4.470585119945735,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,How small may I design objects for the Prusa i3 MK3?,\"I have designed a bread mark and printed it on the Prusa i3 MK3.\n\n\n\nI wanted it to have as sharp edges as possible, so I used a triangle:\n\n\n\nHowever, it seems that the print cut off layers that are too thin (x-y-wise) and instead of a 1 cm high bread mark, I only have 0.5 cm.\n\nWhat is the X-Y-resolution of the Prusa i3 MK3? In Slic3r, can I make sure that any wall is made as thick as needed for it to be printed?\n\nI have the default 0.4 mm nozzle.\n\",Marcus Adams,\"This is dependent on the slicer and the nozzle diameter. Typically, you cannot print a wall smaller than twice the nozzle diameter because walls need an inner and outer line. Therefore, your slicer will make some cutoff and won't print walls below a certain threshold, in order to try to faithfully replicate your model.\n\nSlic3r, I believe, will automatically go down to single line walls, but if you turn on \"\"Detect thin walls\"\" in Slic3r's Print Settings, more of the thin walls will be printed. Slic3r will actually reduce the plastic extruded to attempt to make even thinner walls, but there's still a limit.\n\nWith a 0.4 mm nozzle, you should design walls no smaller than 0.8 mm, or 0.4 mm at the very smallest.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7535,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas Weller,1.726248027126092,3.3570615728962325,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,Why are my lowest layers not solid?,\"I have designed this in Blender:\n\n\n\nThe bottom is a regular n-gon with 0.8mm in height. In Slic3r, I see that the bottom-most layer is not solid:\n\n\n\nThe green parts (of the first image) are going into that layer, because I wanted to ensure that I don't have air between the bottom and the green parts. Unfortunately they become printed non-solid / empty. \n\nThis does not only take extra time for printing, it's also not what I want. What seems to be the bottom here is in fact the top of something and I want it to be a flat surface.\n\nHow can I tell Slic3r to recognize overlapping items and generate them in a solid way?\n\nI have already set the infill to 100%, but that doesn't change anything. The Boolean modifier of Blender is also not very helpful. It creates topologies with gaps.\n\",0scar,\"Blender is not a preferred program to model solids, it is great though for many other visualizations. Apparently, the green parts are not solid models in your original Blender design, they are most probably surfaces, when you create an STL, the model is not solid, it contains surfaces. All this causes problems for your slicer (the slicer ignores the surfaces and makes an empty hole instead, hence the sliced image). You should look into the options, manuals or fora of Blender to create solid models. Otherwise, use a proper 3D modelling tool for creating solid models.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7535,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas Weller,1.726248027126092,3.3570615728962325,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,Why are my lowest layers not solid?,\"I have designed this in Blender:\n\n\n\nThe bottom is a regular n-gon with 0.8mm in height. In Slic3r, I see that the bottom-most layer is not solid:\n\n\n\nThe green parts (of the first image) are going into that layer, because I wanted to ensure that I don't have air between the bottom and the green parts. Unfortunately they become printed non-solid / empty. \n\nThis does not only take extra time for printing, it's also not what I want. What seems to be the bottom here is in fact the top of something and I want it to be a flat surface.\n\nHow can I tell Slic3r to recognize overlapping items and generate them in a solid way?\n\nI have already set the infill to 100%, but that doesn't change anything. The Boolean modifier of Blender is also not very helpful. It creates topologies with gaps.\n\",Thomas Weller,\"I printed the thing for some layers to see what the printer actually does:\n\n\nThere are clearly too many retractions and unretractions.\n\nThis can be seen in advance by letting Slic3r show the retractions and unretractions. \n\n\n\n\nFor the green \"\"walls\"\", it became clear that it prints them exactly onto the empty space, so in fact the seem to be floating. \n\nThat made it obvious to me: the normals were pointing into the wrong direction. Therefore, Slic3r seems to have interpreted the material side of the green parts inside out. I had the same issue on some other parts as well.\n\nI went to Blender, selected the object(s), chose edit mode and found a function called \"\"Recalculate normals\"\". Since then, the bottom layer is solid.\n\nAlso printing time is reduced by half an hour.\n\n\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n7557,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas Weller,1.0891412423578797,4.639250463802304,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Upgrade firmware without Slic3r and USB connection?,\"When printing a part today on my Prusa i3 MK3, I was prompted to upgrade the firmware. I went to the website and downloaded the firmware as a .hex file.\n\nWhen reading the attached firmware upgrade instructions, it seems there's only one way: use Slic3r and connect the printer via USB. These instructions are also available online.\n\nHowever, my printer is too far away from my PC and I'm printing from SD card only. Can I upgrade from SD card as well?\n\nHopefully next week I'll get the Raspberry Pi Zero W so I can use Octoprint for printing. Does that combination support upgrading the firmware?\n\nI have tried:\n\n\nthis Prusa forum post suggests that upgrading via SD card is not possible.\nthis Prusa forum post mentions that there once was a way to upgrade the firmware via Octoprint, but the post is very old (last entry from January 2017)\nit's not a duplicate of this 3D Printing question, since all solutions require a USB or serial connection.\n\n\",0scar,\"No, you cannot update the firmware from an SD card.\n\nYes you can update from a Raspberry Pi (RPi). A RPi runs a Linux distribution, when you install the correct tools you should be able to update through USB using the RPi.\n\nFor simplicity and time it would be an idea to lend a laptop for a few minutes.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n7564,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas Weller,1.726248027126092,4.604924611882321,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Prevent stopping and heating in the middle of the print,\"In my latest 3D model, the Prusa i3 MK3 stops, heats and then continues the print. However, there's no noticeable drop in temperature. The display shows 210 °C/90 °C (nozzle/bed) as expected. I have printed the same part 3 times now and the behavior is similar. I've seen a maximum of 211 °C/90 °C and a minimum of 209 °C/89 °C.\n\nUnfortunatly, it seems that stopping the head seems no good idea. The nozzle is very close to the object and it seems as if either there's a bit of filament leaking, causing too much filament, or the existing filament is melting. \n\n\n\nThe irregularities are always in the same XYZ positions. The print is still usable for my needs, but I'd like to understand this behavior better and find a fix, if possible. My meterial is HDGlass (PETG) and I'm printing with default settings, 20 % infill and first layer 200 °C, following layers 210 °C.\n\nI've looked up the print quality troubleshooting guide. It looks a bit like blobs and zits, just much less and much more subtle than in the example there. Also, the solution is not applicable, because Slic3r does not show a planned retraction in those positions.\n\nMy model is available online and the issue appears near the large bottom layers and the large top layers.\n\nMy questions are:\n\n\nwhat is the problem called / what problem category do I have here?\nwhat is a potential fix?\nsince the filament also extrudes at 200 °C, can I prevent the printer from stopping the movements unless the nozzle temperature drops below e.g. 207 °C, although the nominal temperature should be 210 °C?\n\n\",Trish,\"Your allowable temperature tolerance might be too low.\n\nYou have seen what I call emergency-halt the print on getting too far away from the set print-temperature. As described, the allowable tolerance seems to be 1 degree, which means pretty much any variation in the printer head's temperature will trigger the stop before the software even can counteract it.\n\nTo counteract this, you might try to increase your allowable range slightly, for example to about 2.5 of more degrees, either way, giving the printer time to compensate without halting the print.\n\nHow the tolerance area works\n\n\nLet's assume the printer has 210 degrees with a stable heat input from the cartridge and monitored by the thermosensor.\nconditions are met to start printing.\nFilament is pushed into the nozzle, picking up heat energy from the heater block.\nThe temperature of the heater block drops, as the thermal energy (=heat) input from the cartridge did not yet include the new thermal energy drain in the shape of the filament.\nThe Thermosensor registers the thermal drop a little bit later and notifies the chip\nThe chip increases the voltage on the heater cartridge with a little time difference\n\n\nWith a very low tolerance, it is possible to fall below the threshold before the cartridge could heat up to compensate\n\nthe cartridge pumps in way more heat than needed, raising the temperature rapidly back into the print-temperature tolerance area...\n...and overshoots the aimed for 210 degrees.\nThe thermosensor only registers the aimed temperature with a short delay\nthe chip cuts the voltage to the heater cartridge lower\nbut there is still a lot of extra thermal energy banked in the heater cartridge, heating the block over the aimed 210 degrees\n\n\nwhich again can trigger the stop for the temperature rose over the allowable tolerance.\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7589,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas Weller,1.726248027126092,4.290430848711125,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Moving the Z-axis stepper motors below Z 0.0,\"My Prusa i3 MK3 forgot his home position and it now assumes that the Z 0.0 position is right at the top of the printer. I've asked about this in the Prusa forum before and at that time, I accidentally found a solution using Pronterface.\n\nSo I am now in the same situation again. The printer head is at the very top. It assumes that this is Z 0.0, so I can't move it down.\n\nCalibrating Z does not help. It will always display\n\n\n Some problem encounteres, Z-leveling enforced ...\n\n\nand some time later, it calibrates Z again, resulting in the same problem and so on (endless loop).\n\nThe Pronterface trick (pressing the home button) does not work any more. However, Pronterface seems to accept raw G-Code.\n\nWhich G-Code command would I need to send to the printer to let the head move down? That would need to be a command that just rotates the stepper motor and does not consider the Z-axis value, so that the head effectively moves to negative Z values.\n\nI have also tried:\n\n\nmoving the head down manually while the printer was turned off. I'd like to avoid that. It just doesn't feel right. However, it worked after the third attempt and I was able to do a XYZ calibration. However, during bed leveling, it failed and went into the \"\"some problem encountered\"\" state again.\n\n\",Trish,\"To allow negative axis values, usually, the way is to use G1 S1 to disable boundary checks and G1 S0 to enable them.\n\nAnother way is to force homing Z, which means moving till an endstop triggers and then moving back up the specified motion via G28 Z\n\nAnother alternative would be to send G92 Z50 to set the Z-hight to 50, then G1 Z-50 F200 to move that much down, rinse and repeat.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8228,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas Weller,2.8153892694839717,4.059897408258981,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Why can my printer display remaining time but OctoPrint can't?,\"The Prusa i3 MK3 displays the remaining printing time right from the beginning.\n\n\n Image: 3:38 remaining after 0% printing\n\n\n\n\nFrom about 8 prints until now, I would say that this time is quite reliable.\n\nOctoprint, however, does not display the remaining time initially and is then far off.\n\n\n Image: Octoprint saying something like \"\"too uncertain\"\"\n\n\n\n\n\n Image: Octoprint says 8.5 hours remaining\n\n\n\n\nWhy doesn't Octoprint just take the remaining time from the printer and display that? Or can I change a setting so that it does?\n\",Mad Scientist,\"Octoprint is a generic application that has to work with a rather wide variety of printers and printer firmwares. The time estimation that is shipped with Octoprint by default is a very basic method that doesn't rely on any specific printer features. This also makes it kind of useless in some cases, and not very accurate.\n\nThe estimate that the Prusa i3 Mk3 shows is not actually done by the printer, it is embedded in the GCode generated by Slic3r PE. There are M73 commands added that tell the printer how far along the print job is.\n\nAs for why Octoprint doesn't do this by default, the major reason is likely that this method only works for specific printers and slicers, and only works well if the slicer can actually do good estimates for a particular printer. This is the case for the Prusa because it supports this feature and the slicer is maintained by them and has enough information to make good estimates. But this is not the case for all printers.\n\nThe feature is also not entirely standardized as far as I understand, e.g. Prusa uses slightly different M73 commands to give estimates for normal and silent mode.\n\nThere are plugins that can read the M73 estimates, you could try that. I never tried them myself, this plugin seems to do what you want from a quick glance.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n8229,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas Weller,3.0576060275493275,4.258593578851159,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,Infill is rough - how to enhance?,\"My i3 MK3 is printing very well for solid parts of an object, but it messes up with infill.\n\n\n\nAs you can see in the image, the infill is broken into pieces and bends to that the surface becomes rough and the nozzle touches it next time it moves there, which probably does not make things better.\n\nI've read the Prusa problem page, where they suggest three solutions:\n\n\nchange infill type\nflexible filament (I'm using PETG, so this does not apply)\nlower printing speed\n\n\nI'm printing with 20% infill and I believe that this worked before at the same speed, so I'm tempted to say that both remaining options are options, but it should work without them.\n\nIt also seems to me as if the infill is thinner that ordinary walls. Is the extrusion speed lower in case of infill? Is there a way of changing the extrusion speed for infill?\n\nSide note: my printer always tells me to upgrade to the latest firmware 3.5.1. Since I have just received the printer back from a warranty repair after the last firmware upgrade, I don't want to upgrade the firmware. Could the issue be related to firmware?\n\nInfos requested from comments:\n\nI'm basically using the Slic3r default settings for PETG. The only thing I adjusted is the temperature, since I'm using HDGlass PETG and there was a recommended temperature written on the spool. Relevant settings seem to be\n\n\nFilament settings\n\n\nfan speed min 30 % max 50 %\nbridges fan speed 50 %\nenable fan below 20 s\nslow down below 20 s\nmin print speed 15 mm/s\n\nSpeed settings\n\n\nPerimenters 45 mm/s\nSmall perimeters 25 mm/s\nExternal perimeters 35 mm/s\nInfill 200 mm/s\nSolid infill 200 mm/s \nTop solid infill 50 mm/s\n\n\n\",0scar,\"From your comments can be read that you print infill at 200 mm/s. \n\nKnow that 200 mm/s is ridiculously fast (like high travelling speed), close to the limits of printing on certain machines (for an AtMega)! It is hard for the filament to keep up at this speed. A value of 60 mm/s would be a good value to start experimenting. Your infill is not rough, it just failed printing. I have printed kilometers of PETG, normal print speeds for my PETG are recommended at 30-50 mm/s by my manufacturer; I get good results at 50-60 mm/s. On my Ultimaker 3, 70 mm/s is also feasible.\n\n\n\nNote that the filament you use seems to have rather low printing temperatures (195-225 °C) as opposed to the PETG filament (co-polymer) I'm used to. The manufacturer does not specify advised print speeds (other than \"\"high\"\", but what defines \"\"high\"\"?), but this user posted some of his print settings for this material. The overall speed of 60 mm/s seems to support lower than 200 mm/s print speeds.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n8229,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas Weller,3.0576060275493275,4.258593578851159,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,Infill is rough - how to enhance?,\"My i3 MK3 is printing very well for solid parts of an object, but it messes up with infill.\n\n\n\nAs you can see in the image, the infill is broken into pieces and bends to that the surface becomes rough and the nozzle touches it next time it moves there, which probably does not make things better.\n\nI've read the Prusa problem page, where they suggest three solutions:\n\n\nchange infill type\nflexible filament (I'm using PETG, so this does not apply)\nlower printing speed\n\n\nI'm printing with 20% infill and I believe that this worked before at the same speed, so I'm tempted to say that both remaining options are options, but it should work without them.\n\nIt also seems to me as if the infill is thinner that ordinary walls. Is the extrusion speed lower in case of infill? Is there a way of changing the extrusion speed for infill?\n\nSide note: my printer always tells me to upgrade to the latest firmware 3.5.1. Since I have just received the printer back from a warranty repair after the last firmware upgrade, I don't want to upgrade the firmware. Could the issue be related to firmware?\n\nInfos requested from comments:\n\nI'm basically using the Slic3r default settings for PETG. The only thing I adjusted is the temperature, since I'm using HDGlass PETG and there was a recommended temperature written on the spool. Relevant settings seem to be\n\n\nFilament settings\n\n\nfan speed min 30 % max 50 %\nbridges fan speed 50 %\nenable fan below 20 s\nslow down below 20 s\nmin print speed 15 mm/s\n\nSpeed settings\n\n\nPerimenters 45 mm/s\nSmall perimeters 25 mm/s\nExternal perimeters 35 mm/s\nInfill 200 mm/s\nSolid infill 200 mm/s \nTop solid infill 50 mm/s\n\n\n\",Jeremy Bunn,\"I have dealt with this on infill as well on multiple MK3s.\n\nHowever, it was not the speed itself, but the hot end having difficulty extruding enough to keep up with the infill. \n\nSome things to try:\n\n\nRaise hot end temperature 5 degrees (melt filament faster)\nLower infill speed, it will not affect your overall print time very much (surprisingly)\nA combination of the two above.\n\n\nGood luck!\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8266,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas Weller,2.8153892694839717,4.320852651915707,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.585260288142579,\"False \"\"Object does not fit into print volume\"\" warning from OctoPrint\",\"Octoprint warns me that the objects do not fit into the print volume. I noticed that this happens after a power-off cycle. Since I was overly anxious until today, I always uploaded the GCode file again and it didn't complain any more.\n\nOf course, always uploading the files again is also error prone. So today I gave it a try and simply started to print the object. As far as I can tell, it prints nicely.\n\n\n Image: Octoprint saying something like \"\"Object does not fit into print volume\"\" in German\n\n\n\n\nIs this a known bug in OctoPrint? Are my files really damaged after a power off cycle?\n\nThe values (0.00, -3.00, 0.00) seem to be constant in this error message, no matter what object I want to print.\n\nI'm using OctoPrint in the PrusaPrint flavor and I'm running version 1.3.10 (hopefully a recent version, since I usually update). I generate the G-Code with Slic3r.\n\",anttix,\"This answer is correct, it's normal for Prusa printers to purge at -3 mm on the Y axis.\n\nThis answer is an addition that describes how to get rid of the error.\n\n\nOpen Octoprint web UI\nGo to Settings -> Printer Profiles\nFind active profile, click on the pen icon next to it (Edit Profile)\nGo to Print bed and build volume\nTick Custom bounding box\nEnter -3 to Y Coordinates Min input box\nHit Confirm\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n8266,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas Weller,2.8153892694839717,4.320852651915707,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.585260288142579,\"False \"\"Object does not fit into print volume\"\" warning from OctoPrint\",\"Octoprint warns me that the objects do not fit into the print volume. I noticed that this happens after a power-off cycle. Since I was overly anxious until today, I always uploaded the GCode file again and it didn't complain any more.\n\nOf course, always uploading the files again is also error prone. So today I gave it a try and simply started to print the object. As far as I can tell, it prints nicely.\n\n\n Image: Octoprint saying something like \"\"Object does not fit into print volume\"\" in German\n\n\n\n\nIs this a known bug in OctoPrint? Are my files really damaged after a power off cycle?\n\nThe values (0.00, -3.00, 0.00) seem to be constant in this error message, no matter what object I want to print.\n\nI'm using OctoPrint in the PrusaPrint flavor and I'm running version 1.3.10 (hopefully a recent version, since I usually update). I generate the G-Code with Slic3r.\n\",Mad Scientist,\"That's the purging that Slic3r PE adds, the broad line of filament at the edge of the sheet. That is outside the official print volume, which triggers this error.\n\nThe G-Code generated by Slic3r PE at the start of the file contains the following lines:\n\nG1 Y-3.0 F1000.0 ; go outside print area\nG92 E0.0\nG1 X60.0 E9.0 F1000.0 ; intro line\nM73 Q0 S174\nM73 P0 R173\nG1 X100.0 E12.5 F1000.0 ; intro line\nG92 E0.0\n\n\nYou can see that it explicitly goes to -3 on the Y axis, and then extrudes two times on a line along the X axis.\n\nThe model size detection is labeled as beta in the settings dialog. It's not very reliable at detecting stuff like this purging line outside the boundaries.\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n8486,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas Weller,2.1782824847157594,3.58733573019168,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,How to remove firmware warning,\"I'm operating my Prusa i3 MK3 through Octoprint. Basically, this means I can start prints from remote. However, there's the firmware version warning which requires me to press the knob and confirm that message.\n\nI now found a line of G-Code in Printer Settings / Custom G-code which is probably doing this:\n\nM115 U3.6.0 ; tell printer latest fw version\n\n\nI'm not very familiar with G-Code yet, so before I remove that line, I wanted to know whether that's all I need to do or if there's something else to consider.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Removing that line will not affect your printer, except that it will get rid of the warning displayed on the screen.\n\n\n I wanted to know [...] if there's something else to consider.\n\n\nYou should probably upgrade your firmware to the latest version to benefit from a couple of bugfixes and performance increases.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n8699,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas Weller,2.8153892694839717,3.622620754869475,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,G-Code for resetting to 100% speed,\"I had problems printing parts and I figured out that my children have turned the knob of my Prusa i3 MK3 and set the printing speed to 112%.\n\nSince I'm not experimenting much yet, I'm not printing at different speeds than the original speed. I wonder whether there's a G-Code command that I could let Slic3r insert at the beginning of each print to ensure the print starts with 100% speed.\n\",0scar,\"You can put the speed to 100 % by G-code command: M220 S100.\n\nThe M220command is described here.\n\nKnow that speed changes sent to the printer have an effect on the next printed layer, it first finishes the current layer at the speed commanded before starting printing the layer.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n8705,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas Weller,2.528907649931287,3.410670154036563,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Sunken and rough bottom layer,\"Most of my part is printing very well, but I have problems in the bottom layer and in layers that are the first layers, but not necessarily layer 0.\n\nLooking at the print quality troubleshooting, I can't find a problem that fits my needs. Using the terms over there, I would describe it as \"\"gaps in bottom layer\"\".\n\nPhoto from part A (RPi case top piece):\n\n\n\nPhotos from part B (RPi case bottom):\n\nThere is a really ugly screwhole (sorry for the blurry picture):\n\n\n\nBut in the same part, there's an almost perfect much better screwhole:\n\n\n\nFor the location on the print bed, it's here (both parts):\n\n\n\nI have seen the question First bottom layer has gaps, where the OP has already tried a lot.\n\nMy thoughts so far:\n\n\nI don't want to generally lower the Z height, since it prints fine over a large area with a really flat and smooth surface.\nI'm not sure I should change the temperature settings. I use the i3 MK3 printer and I use Prusa PLA filament with Slic3r Prusa PLA filament settings.\nI don't understand many of the extrusion width / extrusion multiplier options of that question.\nI thought I might have had a fingerprint on the print plate. I typically avoid that by wearing gloves and cleaning the print bed with alcohol every fifth print or so. However, I didn't clean before any of the two parts. (I cleaned now)\n\n\nGiven the description and the pictures, can you name the problem and suggest the most likely solution?\n\nPrinter and filament details:\n\n\nPrusa i3 MK3\nPrusa PLA filament 1.75 mm, pearl blue\n0.20 mm SPEED setting\n20% infill\n5mm Brim\n215°C first layer, 210°C other layers\n60°C bed temperature\nPrusa PLA default filament settings\n\n\nI use a Prusa spring steel print bed. No special adhesion, tape or anything. Closest I could find in the shop is smooth PEI, but mine looks more golden.\n\",kolosy,\"I know you said you don't want to change the Z height, but it does look like you're printing a bit too far from the plate. I would recommend adjusting your Z-offset if you can, or adjusting the limit switch (or whatever your Z-homing mechanism is)\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8705,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Thomas Weller,2.528907649931287,3.410670154036563,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Sunken and rough bottom layer,\"Most of my part is printing very well, but I have problems in the bottom layer and in layers that are the first layers, but not necessarily layer 0.\n\nLooking at the print quality troubleshooting, I can't find a problem that fits my needs. Using the terms over there, I would describe it as \"\"gaps in bottom layer\"\".\n\nPhoto from part A (RPi case top piece):\n\n\n\nPhotos from part B (RPi case bottom):\n\nThere is a really ugly screwhole (sorry for the blurry picture):\n\n\n\nBut in the same part, there's an almost perfect much better screwhole:\n\n\n\nFor the location on the print bed, it's here (both parts):\n\n\n\nI have seen the question First bottom layer has gaps, where the OP has already tried a lot.\n\nMy thoughts so far:\n\n\nI don't want to generally lower the Z height, since it prints fine over a large area with a really flat and smooth surface.\nI'm not sure I should change the temperature settings. I use the i3 MK3 printer and I use Prusa PLA filament with Slic3r Prusa PLA filament settings.\nI don't understand many of the extrusion width / extrusion multiplier options of that question.\nI thought I might have had a fingerprint on the print plate. I typically avoid that by wearing gloves and cleaning the print bed with alcohol every fifth print or so. However, I didn't clean before any of the two parts. (I cleaned now)\n\n\nGiven the description and the pictures, can you name the problem and suggest the most likely solution?\n\nPrinter and filament details:\n\n\nPrusa i3 MK3\nPrusa PLA filament 1.75 mm, pearl blue\n0.20 mm SPEED setting\n20% infill\n5mm Brim\n215°C first layer, 210°C other layers\n60°C bed temperature\nPrusa PLA default filament settings\n\n\nI use a Prusa spring steel print bed. No special adhesion, tape or anything. Closest I could find in the shop is smooth PEI, but mine looks more golden.\n\",rccursach,\"Definitely the corner of your bed where print was worse is slightly unleveled (a little too low), because if you look the hole, it has artifacts too, probably because the nozzle was depositing the melted filament from a higher distance than on the \"\"good\"\" part.\n\nYou can see later in that hole, that the layers finally catch up with the rest, so:\n\n\nYou need to correct the bed leveling on that corner (too low)\n\n\nAlso, the better part doesn't look right either. You can see the ring around the good hole doesn't close because the filament din't stick at the beginning of the circular movement. Plus, your first layer should be smoother than that, not wormy-like.\n\nTo experiment how to get a better first layer you need to tweak in very small amounts:\n\n\nThe first layer height (I may need to be lower for you)\nThe temperature (I don't think you need more temp for your first layer, probably the fans start blowing after the second layer anyways)\nThe % of extruded material (you may increase it in very small amounts only for the first layer [and only after a lower layer height didn't worked])\nThe speed of the first layer (it may need to be lower. imagine your nozzle is trying to print with chewing gum and what would happen if speeds are too high, PLA has a rubbery consistency when melted)\n\n\nAlso:\n\n\nBe sure the surface is clean\n\n\nDust and oils from manipulation on certain spots can cause the filament not to stick, even when you think is clean. I use alcohol when printing on a bare surface, change the masking tape, or use just a paper towel (when I'm using PEI sheet)\n\nIf that doesn't give you a a better first layer, but it is at least even, you will need to adjust your z-axis offset or level the entire bed up a little.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7486,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jeanne,1.0891412423578797,3.2707264231908733,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Anet A8 won't print properly,\"I recently bought the Anet A8 from Gearbest. Everything so far seems in order, but one big problem.\n\nNo matter which filament I used (PLA and ABS), the result is always like this:\n\n\n\nIn the picture there are the PLA and ABS I've been trying to print. What I tried to actually print is a simple arrow.\n\nOne of the things that caused it was manually trying to push the filament, because the extruder gear doesn't really push it. It doesn't seem like it's stuck, but it just won't move. Then I move it manually, it does this.\n\nI have tried different methods for the gear to push it and different printing temperatures (first the presets, then PLA 190°C / ABS 240°C) but it does the same thing.\n\",yetihehe,\"\n because the extruder gear doesn't really push it. It doesn't seem like it's stuck, but it just won't move.\n\n\nIt looks like stepper issue.\n\n\nDid you check stepper connections? Maybe there is a loose wire?\nMaybe your extruder is assembled incorrectly? Please check google images to see how extruder should be assembled and/or give us some photos of your extruder.\nMaybe your printer is setup wrong, there is small potentiometer on mainboard which sets stepper current, I had problems when it was rotated slightly too far. Try commanding your printer to extrude slowly for several seconds and in this time turn pot at least one time (it wraps around) until it starts to extrude (do not move printhead during this, turning this pot WILL make motors skip and crash into home/end). If you don't have problems with other motors, this may not be your issue but is worth checking.\nTry homing your axes first, sometimes after startup motors won't work correctly until homing axes.\nTry pressing reset once after starting printer.\n\n\nHow to find that pot? It's just to the side of capacitor which is near \"\"Z-Motor2\"\" connector.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7495,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Alexandre Reis Ribeiro,2.1782824847157594,3.546298061061763,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Tronxy X5S losing steps during print,\"This is my first printer, a core xy (Tronxy X5S) printer, and it is losing steps during diagonal movements. The curious thing its that fail is even, I've printed 2 calibration cubes and they are almost equals:\n\n\n\nWhen it lose the step, you can ear a \"\"toc\"\" sound, as in this footage at 3s: https://youtu.be/aRJB--QBMC4 This is my realy first print, and I don't have much experience with 3d printing, thanks in advance for any information!\n\",EnigmaticManiac,\"I had the same issue with my X5S when I first got it assembled. Because it's CoreXY, if one pulley slips, you'll skip steps in the diagonal. Check both set screws on your pulleys for the X and Y.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n7496,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ropes17,2.528907649931287,3.264951048124368,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,1.878685800062712,Filament long term storage,\"I was noticing on a print I had just done that the quality was not up to typical snuff. I had just started using a roll of PLA filament that I had been keeping on a shelf without a wrapper for a couple months. How long can you store filament before it gets too hydrated from the air to print? I expected more than a couple months but perhaps I am wrong?\n\",Trish,\"In theory, most filaments don't go bad.\n\nIt is however always a good idea to store filament dry. To enforce this, some use racks in a well-heated room, others are blessed with very dry weather overall. And others are forced to use dryboxes. Dryboxes can keep the filament reasonably isolated from the surrounding air and so prevent moisture interacting with them. It is also a good idea to store them out of direct sunlight, as UV light might destroy color and/or the plastic.\n\nMore information on why to use them is for example at the question Which filaments actually do need to be stored in a drybox?\n\nA couple construction videos using an IKEA box and a bit of foam were offered by Tom (Thomas Sanladerer) and CNC Kitchen (Stefan Hermann) in the last year.\n\nBut fear not: most filaments - PLA included - can be freshened up again! Just bake them at a low temperature or store them in a dehumidifier. For PLA, keep the temperature at below 80°C. A couple hours should get all the moisture that has seeped in out again. The Quality might not get back to that of fresh filament in all cases, but you might at least regain reasonable to good printability.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n7496,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ropes17,2.528907649931287,3.264951048124368,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,1.878685800062712,Filament long term storage,\"I was noticing on a print I had just done that the quality was not up to typical snuff. I had just started using a roll of PLA filament that I had been keeping on a shelf without a wrapper for a couple months. How long can you store filament before it gets too hydrated from the air to print? I expected more than a couple months but perhaps I am wrong?\n\",user50220,\"To answer your question: it depends on the relative humidity. Generally, a few weeks in a semi-arid environment. But, it'll still print really well. If you're looking for really tight filament diameter tolerances, a week or even less could change the diameter .001 or more if there is moisture in the air. I've used PLA that has been exposed to air for a few months and it's been fine, but with small issues.\n\nIf the filament has absorbed too much moisture, you'll typically hear popping coming from the hot extruder as the water is burned off at the nozzle. Sometimes steam comes out of the nozzle when printing as well with \"\"wet\"\" filament. Usually, you can still get great results even if it has absorbed moisture. If the filament diameter has been affected significantly, (if it jams, or the water keeps the plastic too cool when it's coming off the nozzle) you can dry it out in an oven for a few hours like @trish suggested. I keep my filaments in a plastic bag with desiccant inside a big storage bin. Probably overkill but my water softener is in the same room and introduces moisture to the air, and my a/c blows right at the setup.\n\nDust is probably worse because it can accumulate much faster and cause jams.\n\nsource and reading\n\nhttps://www.fusion3design.com/the-importance-of-properly-storing-your-3d-printing-filament/\n\",0.0,0.0\n7497,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jaden Baptista,2.528907649931287,4.005117949358426,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Can the filament tube be outside of the nozzle?,\"I bought a few new nozzles expecting them to come with that little tube that comes out of the nozzle. They didn't come with them after all, so I tried to reuse the tube I originally had in the printer. Turns out my old tube is 4mm OD and 2mm ID, but the new nozzles have 2mm holes for the tube to go in. I use 1.75mm filament, so it seems like to be able to fit the filament through the tube would be impossible barring a tube with an 0.125mm wall. \n\nMy question is, can I put the tube outside of the nozzle? That is, not stuck in the hole for the nozzle. In theory, the tube would still direct the filament into the right place. It looks like that might be the point of these new nozzles, since it seems so unlikely that someone would be able to stick a filament tube in the nozzle. \n\nIf not, where can I find the tubes I need? I've looked in a few different places and I can't find it. Or are the nozzles useless, and should I return them? Thanks for the help. \n\",Trish,\"Let me clean up a little nomenclature\n\nThe PTFE tube is either a Bowden Style Setup delivering the filament from the extruder down through the cool-end and to the heatbreak or just a liner in the cool-end and heatbreak for direct drive. In both cases they are to prevent clogs. In most setups it is not pushed into the nozzle which is in the heater block (they exist, see below).\n\nThe liner/Bowden tube guides the filament through the heatsink and into the proper Hotend/Meltzone. In the better designs intended for higher temperature like ABS (see left half), it ends in the heatbreak. This also has the added benefit of having less chance to leak if the tube slips a little bit.\n\nSimple setups (see right half) butt it against the nozzle and thus limit the temperature range. This kind of butted setup can lead to leakage if the tube slips up. In either case, it is no problem to reuse the PTFE tube when changing nozzles, it is even advisable in the case of a Bowden setup as it might change the length of the path.\n\nThe nozzle is usually screwed into the heater block from below, and for best use, one screws it against the heatbreak in a heated state - this is called hot-tightening.\n\n\n\nIf you somehow end up destroying your PTFE Tube, you can get them under the keyword PTFE tube, Bowden tube or Pneumatic PTFE tube on the internet.\n\nPTFE inside the nozzle?\n\nYes, these exist, OP has them, they look like this, and are not what has become the industry standard. \n\nI can think of no good reason to put an PTFE Sleeve into the nozzle, but someone did it, and it sis a valid approach. However, I see several problems with it: \n\n\nthe PTFE tube degrades if pushed deep into the melt zone and can lead to clogs.\nthe added PTFE is not a very good at transmitting heat, thus reducing the effectiveness of the melt zone. This can lead to needing either much lower printing speeds or a much higher printing temperature to achieve good prints\n\n\nIt should be of no issue to convert from this style into the butted-style (right) just by using a short length of PTFE in the heatbreak. I would prefer though to combine it with a heatbreak where the PTFE ends and making this what is commonly referred to as an \"\"all metal hotend\"\" (left).\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n7497,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jaden Baptista,2.528907649931287,4.005117949358426,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Can the filament tube be outside of the nozzle?,\"I bought a few new nozzles expecting them to come with that little tube that comes out of the nozzle. They didn't come with them after all, so I tried to reuse the tube I originally had in the printer. Turns out my old tube is 4mm OD and 2mm ID, but the new nozzles have 2mm holes for the tube to go in. I use 1.75mm filament, so it seems like to be able to fit the filament through the tube would be impossible barring a tube with an 0.125mm wall. \n\nMy question is, can I put the tube outside of the nozzle? That is, not stuck in the hole for the nozzle. In theory, the tube would still direct the filament into the right place. It looks like that might be the point of these new nozzles, since it seems so unlikely that someone would be able to stick a filament tube in the nozzle. \n\nIf not, where can I find the tubes I need? I've looked in a few different places and I can't find it. Or are the nozzles useless, and should I return them? Thanks for the help. \n\",0scar,\"To answer your question directly, the PTFE tube (or a separate thin walled PTFE tube for the bottom part of the heatbreak) generally always is outside the nozzle, so yes (unless you have an all-metal hotend, then there is no PTFE tube up to the nozzle). But as read from your question, your setup has the tube included inside the nozzle (this is described in more detail below). However, you can change the nozzle for one that does not have the PTFE tube go into the nozzle but rest against the nozzle provided you can find the correct sized nozzle/tread for it.\n\nThe nozzles your printer uses are non standard nozzles that are featured on a few printer designs. It is called an \"\"MK10\"\" nozzle, but there is no such thing as a standard \"\"MK10\"\" nozzle. Different designs of the \"\"MK10\"\" nozzle exist. Originally, the \"\"MK nozzles\"\" are the creation of Makerbot; an excellent post found in this thread (all credits for the MK history go to user \"\"vermon\"\") discuss the development over time of the \"\"MK\"\" nozzles. An answer based on this posting is found here.\n\nThe nozzle your printer has is slightly larger than normal nozzles. The CEO of ToyBuilder labs explains the difference between an \"\"MK10\"\" and an MK8 in this video. Take care of the thread size of such nozzles, the \"\"MK10\"\" uses M7 threads, while M6 is more common!\n\n\n\nAs explained in this answer, the use of the PTFE tube inside the nozzle is questionable. The heating zone in effect is reduced to the tip of the nozzle. The heat transfer from heating element, to heater block to nozzle is only possible because of the enlarged design and the flange that give extra surface area for heat conduction to take place. It is not expected that such nozzles are able to print optimally at high speeds.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n7502,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,willanth,1.726248027126092,2.541486592782186,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Gizmo3D SLA + Monocure resins not curing,\"I am working with a \"\"Gizmo3D\"\" type DLP resin printer, and using Monocure \"\"General Grey\"\" resin. I'm having some issues with getting this resin to cure to the build plate well enough to prevent it from \"\"wandering\"\" across during the print, without \"\"cooking\"\" the resin and distorting it.\n\nDoes anyone have experience using this family of resin that could suggest some of their process details? I am getting acceptable quality incremental print with 100 micron (0.1 mm) layer thickness and a resin temp of 25 °C but I am having issues with the layers of the model \"\"peeling away\"\" from the base layers that get put down on the build plate first. \n\",Jeanne,\"I get best results from sun curing by putting it in water in the sun for 20-30 min.\n\nI personally do not like Monocure Red one. I find the Nova3D prints better, has a lower oder, and cheaper.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7510,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Danny Tuppeny,2.528907649931287,3.4291679796504773,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Does color changing PLA require a hardened nozzle?,\"I've seen comments about glow-in-the-dark filament being abrasive and would damage a bronze nozzle so a hardened nozzle is recommended.\n\nIs the same true for filament that changes colour when warm (for example when held in your hands)?\n\",markshancock,\"The color changing material used in the filament is most likely a Leuco dye. There are several types and some can be abrasive (just like the glow in the dark dyes); but, they aren't like putting sand through your nozzle. Since brass is really soft, even something like the dyes can cause it to wear; but, it will take a while.\n\nThe safest bet is to use a hardened nozzle; but, if you are just doing a small print then it probably won't be too hard on the brass nozzle either. I have heard of people printing an entire spool of glow-in-the-dark PLA with a brass nozzle then examining the nozzle and not noticing any wear.\n\nAlso, some people like the better thermal characteristics of the brass over the steel; so, they just stick with the brass nozzle for everything and replace it when needed.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n7661,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Danny Tuppeny,1.726248027126092,4.325794029945154,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,How to reduce +/- 5 degree temp swings of hotend (after PID tuning),\"I have a Monoprice Maker Ultimate 3D printer (a rebranded Wanhao Duplicator 6) and out of the box the hotend temps when set to 200 would vary between 190 and 210. I used repetier-host to run PID tuning and stored the last set of values it gave when it finished, however I'm still seeing around 5 degree temp swings.\n\nHere's a screenshot of the temp during a Benchy print from Octoprint:\n\n\n\nI tried PID tuning again, which gave different values, but basically the same results. Is there anything I can do to improve this? The Maker Select Plus I had only seemed to vary +/- 1 degree so I'm assuming this is more than expected. (I don't actually know what the implications are, so I don't know whether it is/will affect my print quality).\n\nIs there another way of tuning (I don't fancy manually tweaking numbers and testing for hours), or if I do more than 8 cycles (the default on the Wiki page linked above) would that improve the accuracy?\n\",Trish,\"Software\n\nYou might want to look at your firmware. When running a PID tune, the firmware decides on a smoothing.\n\nin Marlin, configuration.h contains a line that determines how much the machine shall try to work out the curves. For my ender 3 it reads:\n\n#define PID_K1 0.95 // Smoothing factor within the PID\n\n\nPlaying with the value carefully might result in better calibration.\n\nHardware\n\nA different trick to widen the waves might come from adjusting the physical properties of the printer:\n\n\nMake sure that no draft from the cool end fans runs over the heater block. If it does, a shroud or a little tinfoil can help to dampen the changes.\ne3D uses a silicon sock to isolate their heater blocks and prevent air drafting over them.\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n7661,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Danny Tuppeny,1.726248027126092,4.325794029945154,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,How to reduce +/- 5 degree temp swings of hotend (after PID tuning),\"I have a Monoprice Maker Ultimate 3D printer (a rebranded Wanhao Duplicator 6) and out of the box the hotend temps when set to 200 would vary between 190 and 210. I used repetier-host to run PID tuning and stored the last set of values it gave when it finished, however I'm still seeing around 5 degree temp swings.\n\nHere's a screenshot of the temp during a Benchy print from Octoprint:\n\n\n\nI tried PID tuning again, which gave different values, but basically the same results. Is there anything I can do to improve this? The Maker Select Plus I had only seemed to vary +/- 1 degree so I'm assuming this is more than expected. (I don't actually know what the implications are, so I don't know whether it is/will affect my print quality).\n\nIs there another way of tuning (I don't fancy manually tweaking numbers and testing for hours), or if I do more than 8 cycles (the default on the Wiki page linked above) would that improve the accuracy?\n\",0scar,\"If you are sure that PID is enabled (and not using bang-bang heating, as this gives a very similar heating profile) and did not fix the fluctuations, the best guess for this phenomenon is that the printer board has incorrect capacitors installed on the printer board. This is not very uncommon and can be found on the internet. You should at least show the graph to the vendor and ask for support.\n\nIf incorrect or faulty capacitors are the cause it requires desoldering, and resoldering new ones. If this is out of your comfort zone, it is better to steer your communication with the vendor to replacing the board.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n7522,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mirco,0.0,3.646280618164887,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Z-axis of Anet A8 always moves additional 5 mm upwards when moving X and Y-axis in Ultimaker Cura,\"I have an Anet A8 using the Marlin 1.1.8 Firmware.\n\nThere are two (very much related) things that bother me: \n\nG00 Z0 (after auto home from printer menu which places the nozzle at Z10.09 according to my settings) goes to Z5. G00 Z-5 brings the nozzle down to the bed but I cannot see any offset like 5 mm.\n\nIn Ultimaker Cura I use the jog buttons (like I always do when leveling the bed) but every time I do this it seems that a Z movement of -5 is added. So I press jog distance 10 to the right. The nozzle goes to the right AND up 5 mm. Same with all other jogs. If I do X movements from the printer menu directly, the printer behaves correctly. \n\nWhat's new is that whenever I connect or disconnect Ultimaker Cura, the display shows Z-4.99 on the display. I went through all settings even the Marlin configuration.h to check where I could change this but didn't find it.\n\nI am using a sensor as limit switch which pysical distance to the bed is 7.51 mm. M503 tells me that there was an offset (M206) of Z of 5. So I sent M206 Z0. In my firmware (configuration.h) the Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER is set to 0 ... hmmm, sounds incorrect to me. other z offsets I cannot see being different from 0.\n\",Greenonline,\"Answer taken from OP's question\n\n\n\n(24.01.2019) UPDATE: I updated Marlin to 1.1.9 and used the configuration from repository. Since I also printed a new print head (for Bowden extruder) I had to rework all offsets. Same time I switched to Simplify3D (cause I need better control for support blocks). Since then the problem disappeared (not surprised). I could not figure out what setting caused my problem. Thank you!\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7524,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dimitrios Desyllas,2.528907649931287,3.3916584347368426,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.3995491493854546,3D printer out of normal printer (HP PSC 1315),\"I thought as a fun project to make my own 3D printer out of a normal printer parts + some parts out of old CD-ROM drives that are lying around. The printer of my choice is an HP PSC 1315 one.\n\n\nBut I have these questions:\n\n\nDoes this printer users stepper motors or is using a combination of DC ones and some sort of position sensor?\nWhat kind of electronics and firmware I can use for this type of builds?\n\n\",Trish,\"No, Printers are not good sources\n\nCommon printers contain at best one stepper motor in the scanner, and it is usually too weak for use as an X or Y stepper, but for a very slow printer they might be useable, especially if you could source 2 or 4 of the same type.\n\nThe main motors in the printer are almost universally DC motors that get their turning signal as a voltage from the main board, which again uses positional information from an encoder strip/disk. Using both of these to make a 3D printer is usually not feasible. \n\nHowever, they usually have good rails (sadly often of non-standard diameter) and might be salvaged for a decent optical sensor. See also Thomas Sanladerer's video about this.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n7524,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dimitrios Desyllas,2.528907649931287,3.3916584347368426,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.3995491493854546,3D printer out of normal printer (HP PSC 1315),\"I thought as a fun project to make my own 3D printer out of a normal printer parts + some parts out of old CD-ROM drives that are lying around. The printer of my choice is an HP PSC 1315 one.\n\n\nBut I have these questions:\n\n\nDoes this printer users stepper motors or is using a combination of DC ones and some sort of position sensor?\nWhat kind of electronics and firmware I can use for this type of builds?\n\n\",0scar,\"\"\"Yes\"\" you can, but \"\"No\"\" it is not a good idea.\n\nA colleague of me is building a Anet A8 clone from salvaged rods from a bunch of printers he had. The rods are 9 mm in diameter for which you cannot find affordable linear bearings. We printed bearing blocks from PLA with integrated glide surfaces to solve that.\n\nFurthermore, practically nothing of interested can be obtained from a 2D printer/scanner. The steppers are too weak, the belts too flimsy, and the electronics are not useable. Only on optical sensor (used as an endstop), but these literally only cost about $0.40 (then you get the whole module including the cable). Also, linear rods of good quality are best obtained locally from a local (web) supplier, there are mixed experienced with those found on cheap internet auction sites. \n\nConsidering the amount of parts that can be salvaged from a 2D printer/scanner, and the part you actually need to order to complete the build, you better spend a few extra bucks and order all parts.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n7543,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dimitrios Desyllas,1.0891412423578797,4.199044916790343,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Building a cheap 3d printer with DC Motors?,\"Because I do not own a 3d printer I am searching a way to build an affordable 3d printer. But paying a 200Euros for one seems too much for me.\n\nSo in my search for affordable 3d printer I thought to build one out of legos (for example this one) that I can find in bulk at reasonable price.\n\nAs for rods I can use out of old printers and skim them down to 8mm at a machine shop (at worst case). \n\nBut as for motors DC ones are easier to find/scavage that stepper ones but:\n\n\nIs it possible to build a 3d printer that uses DC motors instead of stepper ones and what kind of firmware is needed?\n\n\",Trish,\"To use DC-motors instead of stepper motors, you would need to have some sort of encoder that tells the controlling machine where the printhead has moved. \n\nOn the arduino Forums they have discussed the problems and difficulties. The main problem is, that currently, there is little firmware for Arduino or similar chips that can do this. Another big problem is, that such a machine might need a different type of G-code, unless well done.\n\nThat is not to say that there is no firmware that does control DC motors via an encoder. Printers do so since ages. But to reverse engineer printer firmware is really really hard. It took a pair of hackers the better part of a half year to dissect the printer & Fax firmware for one printer, and they had mainly looked to dissect the fax protocol and had not looked at all at the motor controlDefcon talk about it.\n\nLuckily, as the RepRap tells though, somebody did hack together a DC motor control: Miguel Sanchez has a GitHub about it. You DO need proper encoders though.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7527,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joshua F,1.726248027126092,3.7005487749244255,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Different lengths of filament is extruded with different temperatures,\"TL;DR: I'm looking to change the steps per mm but I'm not sure what to set it to. Do I decide on a temperature and change the rate based on the percentage for that temp? Or is there a more general setting I can put it to? Or is there a different underlying problem here?\n\nI'm running into an issue with my Ender 3 where when I print PLA at different temperatures I'm getting different extrusion rates. I've done the test where marking it at 120 mm and then extruding using PronterFace 100 mm and measuring the distance and this is my results. I did two tests of each to confirm results\n\n\n185 °C 80 mm left = 60 % under extrusion\n200 °C 31 mm Left = 11 % Under Extrusion\n210 °C 32 mm Left = 12 % Under Extrusion\n220 °C 28 mm Left = 8 % Under Extrusion\n230 °C 25 mm Left = 5 % Under Extrusion\n\n\nWhen I feed 100 mm through the Bowden tube without the filament going through the hot end I get exactly 20 mm left meaning:\n\n\n0% under Extrusion\n\necho: Steps per unit:\necho: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E93.00\n\n\n\nI have been having this problem since I started. I normally print at 210 °C at 50 mm/s with a flow rate of 103 % which seems to work well for most prints but on flat walls on prints it under extrudes in the same spot each time it comes around to that point. \n\nSteps I have taken so far:\n\n\nDifferent PLA filaments. All perform the same\nReplaced the nozzle with a new one\nChecked all fittings with the bowen tube system\nPrinted a spring spacer to make the spring tighter on the extruder gear\nChanged the Vref from 0.75 to 1 for the extruder stepper\n\n\nThe reason I changed the Vref on the extruder stepper is because the system would click back when printing as if the pressure was too great in the tube. Changing this has helped some of the under extrusion a bit.\n\nSo. depending on the temperature, it's harder or easier to push the filament by hand through the hot end. Maybe I need a better hot end?\n\nExamples: \n\nMy test print to replicate the issue. The ripple bit is brittle and under extruded.\n\n\n\n\n\nThis was a Prototype piece for an up-sized print I was planning. After going around it under extrudes at the same point each time 210 °C\n\n\n\nMost of the print is fine just some parts are different. This is an inner wall.\n\n\n\nHeat towers\n\",0scar,\"Obviously, your extrusion process is troubled by a lot of pressure. This can be seen from the extensive experiment you conducted with PLA extrusion at different temperatures. Please do note that 230 °C is considered pretty high for PLA! Usually it should be in the range of 185 - 205 °C:\n\n\n In general, PLA filament settings have an optimal printing PLA\n temperature range from about 185C to about 205C. If you’re using\n 1.75mm as opposed to thicker 2.85mm (or 3.00mm) your optimal print will be closer to the lower end of this PLA filament temperature\n range.\n\n\nThe temperature dependency of filament diameter is explained that small diameter filament warms up way faster in the heating zone of the hotend than large diameter filament as the heat travels less far to the filament core. Basically, with 1.75 mm filament you should be able to print at 195 °C. The pressure that the filament exerts on the hotend and extruder is clearly too much and leads to skipped steps.\n\nIt is strongly discouraged to create a function of steps per millimeter (or an over-extrusion by specifying a more than 100% flow modifier). This is a mechanical issue that needs to be fixed by addressing the hardware problem. Usually this is done by:\n\n\nfixing the extruder; \n\n\nis it skipping steps? \ndoes the filament tension get too high that it skips back pass the extruder gear?\ndoes increase the stepper current work?\n\nfixing the Bowden tube;\n\n\nis it clean?\nis there too much friction?\nare there kinks?\n\nfixing the hotend;\n\n\nis the temperature that is reported the correct one? (thermistor problem?)\nis the heat conducting properly to the nozzle?\nis there a tolerance issue in the hotend/heatbreak?\nis the coldend properly cooled?\n\n\n\nA few of these you already explored, others you have not. Unfortunately, you have to do a little more troubleshooting the get to the bottom of the actual problem that is causing this pressure preventing the extruder to extrude the proper commanded length.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7527,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joshua F,1.726248027126092,3.7005487749244255,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Different lengths of filament is extruded with different temperatures,\"TL;DR: I'm looking to change the steps per mm but I'm not sure what to set it to. Do I decide on a temperature and change the rate based on the percentage for that temp? Or is there a more general setting I can put it to? Or is there a different underlying problem here?\n\nI'm running into an issue with my Ender 3 where when I print PLA at different temperatures I'm getting different extrusion rates. I've done the test where marking it at 120 mm and then extruding using PronterFace 100 mm and measuring the distance and this is my results. I did two tests of each to confirm results\n\n\n185 °C 80 mm left = 60 % under extrusion\n200 °C 31 mm Left = 11 % Under Extrusion\n210 °C 32 mm Left = 12 % Under Extrusion\n220 °C 28 mm Left = 8 % Under Extrusion\n230 °C 25 mm Left = 5 % Under Extrusion\n\n\nWhen I feed 100 mm through the Bowden tube without the filament going through the hot end I get exactly 20 mm left meaning:\n\n\n0% under Extrusion\n\necho: Steps per unit:\necho: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E93.00\n\n\n\nI have been having this problem since I started. I normally print at 210 °C at 50 mm/s with a flow rate of 103 % which seems to work well for most prints but on flat walls on prints it under extrudes in the same spot each time it comes around to that point. \n\nSteps I have taken so far:\n\n\nDifferent PLA filaments. All perform the same\nReplaced the nozzle with a new one\nChecked all fittings with the bowen tube system\nPrinted a spring spacer to make the spring tighter on the extruder gear\nChanged the Vref from 0.75 to 1 for the extruder stepper\n\n\nThe reason I changed the Vref on the extruder stepper is because the system would click back when printing as if the pressure was too great in the tube. Changing this has helped some of the under extrusion a bit.\n\nSo. depending on the temperature, it's harder or easier to push the filament by hand through the hot end. Maybe I need a better hot end?\n\nExamples: \n\nMy test print to replicate the issue. The ripple bit is brittle and under extruded.\n\n\n\n\n\nThis was a Prototype piece for an up-sized print I was planning. After going around it under extrudes at the same point each time 210 °C\n\n\n\nMost of the print is fine just some parts are different. This is an inner wall.\n\n\n\nHeat towers\n\",Joshua F,\"So I feel that I solved the problem thanks to a few sources. Thanks to 0scar for his quick response and help.\n\nThe problem was two fold. Mechanical problem causing blockage and slicer setting causing ripple.\n\n\nThe PTFE tube wasn't pushed all the way in as far as it could go causing too much pressure in the hotend. This seems to be a really common problem with stock Ender 3's Because of the gap the hotend needed to heat up into the heat break to melt the lump in the gap between the hot end and the PTFE tube. \nThe slicing settings in cura had combing enabled. I set it to not comb on skin but what it was doing is combing just behind the skin and as a result would leak out filament in little blobs that when it printed the outer layer would be pushed out causing a ripple effect. This caused under extrusion once it finished the move because there wasnt enough filament left in the end.\n\n\nAfter I fixed these two things I was printing at 190c with no under extrusion, motor slipping, very little stringing and printing much better.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n7541,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ben Hoffman,2.528907649931287,3.8850447547108047,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Monoprice Select Mini v2 - Some Prints Freeze,\"I am having an issue where several prints I downloaded from thingiverse causing my printer to freeze in the first minute of the print. The print head stops, pushes out a small amount of PLA and then does nothing. The control board continues to show the print progress bar continuing.\n\nOne thing that could be possible is I am using the wrong G-code flavor. I am running Cura 3.4.1 and I set the printer to use RepRap. I also tried Marlin. Which one of those is right for my printer? Could it be something else?\n\nMy MonoPrice printer firmware version is v35.110.2. The item I tried to print has the gcode from this page. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2221657.\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"The source of the files (thingiverse) is irrelevant -- what matters is what the slicing software creates for gcode. Since you're using Cura,go to monoprice for their advice.\n\nThere are a number of Cura + monoprice instructional vids on youtube as well.\n\nnot to mention several reddit channels. \n\",0.0,0.0\n7541,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ben Hoffman,2.528907649931287,3.8850447547108047,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Monoprice Select Mini v2 - Some Prints Freeze,\"I am having an issue where several prints I downloaded from thingiverse causing my printer to freeze in the first minute of the print. The print head stops, pushes out a small amount of PLA and then does nothing. The control board continues to show the print progress bar continuing.\n\nOne thing that could be possible is I am using the wrong G-code flavor. I am running Cura 3.4.1 and I set the printer to use RepRap. I also tried Marlin. Which one of those is right for my printer? Could it be something else?\n\nMy MonoPrice printer firmware version is v35.110.2. The item I tried to print has the gcode from this page. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2221657.\n\",0scar,\"If you go to the Monoprice website you will find a dedicated page for Ultimaker Cura. \n\nFrom the page you can read that:\n\n\n Cura now includes profiles for the MP Select Mini V1 and V2. Go to\n “Settings”, “Printer”, “Add Printer…”, “Other”. Select the radio\n button next to the printer, then “Add Printer”.\n\n\nSo you must be able to configure it correctly for your printer (this must include the G-code flavor for your printer). Do note that Monoprice does nothing with the Ultimaker Cura installers, they simply link directly to the source at Ultimaker. Also note all the problems related to specific versions and how to fix them.\n\nYou write that the:\n\n\n The control board continues to show the print progress bar continuing.\n\n\nThis I have experiences myself (on a different printer with Marlin 1.1.8), so a non-printing printer while the progressbar progresses. I solved this myself by flashing to a newer firmware version. It appears to be a bug in the firmware.\n\nYou might want to explore whether it is feasible for you to update, I read that there are issues with this printer concerning firmware updating (it appears that there are different hardware versions of this printer).\n\nE.g. from this reference:\n\n\n \n If your MPSM V2 currently has Motion Controller v34 or higher\n installed then you can update with this firmware. \n If your MPSM V2 currently has Motion Controller v30 or lower, do NOT update with this firmware. \n If you have Motion Controller versions 31, 32, or 33 please\n ask before updating with this firmware.\n \n\n\nAlthough the changelog does not mention your problems, you may benefit from a firmware update. Please do this at your own risk, take precautions and read in the matter if your printer is able to be updated. It is best to first look into your settings how the printer is configured in Ultimaker Cura. Preferably, delete the current printer configuration and add a new configuration as described here.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7555,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user3482676,1.726248027126092,2.7788773953209382,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,How do I keep the .stl files from being resized while exporting?,\"I made a few models in Autodesk Inventor. When I tried to get them printed, the printer created a model smaller than the model I made in Inventor (270mm x 200mm). Is there a way to keep them from getting resized?\n\nHere is the model in Inventor:\n\nAnd here is the model being visualized by the printer driver:\n\n\",Trish,\".stl Basics\n\nThe .stl format has no inherent sense of which units you use. items are to scale to an ambiguous 1, which could be 1 meter, one millimeter, one lightyear or one inch. To a .stl, only the relative sizing matters. All these faces you see are compared to a line with the length of 1-unit that is \n\nSlicer-Modeling Software interaction\n\nThe most common graphic design programs export in millimeters, but some US ones just assume inches, which is a factor of 1\"\"=25.4mm. \n\nCura, Netfabb, and Slic3r expect that the 1-unit line is one millimeter long - but if it is an inch instead, then the model is shrunk by 1/25.4 or to about 4% of the right size. Scaling up by 2540% one would return to the millimeter scale.\n\nBut then there are other programs that use other choices of scales. Blender for example assumes a scene is in meters by default. \n\nInventor\n\nInventor can export .stl in a variety of scales, which all just serve as how the length of the inherent but invisible 1-unit line is drawn. The default choice is centimeters, so a scaling factor of 1cm=10mm, which would explain the models being only 1/10th of the expected size in Slic3r. to change the scaling, follow the manual:\n\n\nupon exporting a .stl, click Options\nunder Units, choose mm\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n7556,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jase Kaeberlein,3.0576060275493275,4.251770213416618,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,0.7766301205685938,First time assemble of Anet A6 printer. Only fan works,\"I bought an Anet A6-L printer (after some research I discovered that this is not a genuine Anet A6) and assembled it. The first time I plugged it in, the fan (fan 2, I believe) is the only thing that turns on. Also, the LCD screen (LCD2004 5 button display) only had 1 cord, and 1 jack for the cord to plug in on the back of the screen, but 2 openings on the motherboard. The fan turns on for around 30 seconds, then turns off. I have the anet A6 printer, with the V1-5 motherboard. I have everything else (fans, motors, hotbed, power) plugged into the right ports. I haven't plugged in the micro SD (TF) card yet, I turned it on to test it. \n\nI am using a modified part that replaces the windpipe/fan duct (white) and redirects the airflow around it and inwards from a ring around the tip, but that is the only modification I have made. I have not messed with the power supply (other than wiring it in). Same with the motherboard. I tested it also without the modification for the fan duct but it still has the same problem.\n\n\n\n\n\",0scar,\"This definitely sounds like a problem with your wiring if you have a genuine Anet A6, the genuine A6 comes with a 12864 full graphic display. For sure, you are missing 1 flat ribbon cable (see below). Maybe this is causing the LCD not to light up and the SD card not functioning. As the \"\"fan 2\"\" is working, the board is powered by the power supply (this fan is using the constant power feed of the supply of the board). What you are actually describing as a boot sequence is the actual boot sequence of a printer. Once you power the printer, the fan that is cooling the cold end of the extruder should start spinning and keep spinning while the part cooling fan usually spins up but then powers down to standstill. While this is happening, the LCD should come alive and show the boot screen and finally the printer menu. If your screen is not showing any light, this implies that your screen is either broken, not powered or wrongly connected.\n\nYou could connect the printer over USB and control the printer from an external program, e.g. Pronterface, OctoPrint, Repetier-host, etc. and see if the printer works (then you know that the display is broken).\n\nFrom a search on AliExpress I found that there are auto leveling printers sold with the Anet A6 branding that differ from the standard Anet A6 as written in Chinglish:\n\n\n Different Auto leveling A6 and Normal A6:\n \n 1.The auto-leveling version uses a proximity sensor to detect the aluminum print bed where the normal version of the printer uses a\n micro-switch to detect the end of travel for the Z-Axis movement\n (vertical limits).\n \n 2.Auto leveling A6-L work with LCD2004 screen, A6 work with LCD12864 screen\n\n\nThe second remark from the quote above suggests that there is a 2004 LCD version that is only used by the Anet A6-L version (probably because they need a free pin for the auto leveling sensor). Such a display only has a single connection socket and needs to be connected to a single socket on the Anet printer board (named \"\"LCD\"\", not \"\"J3\"\")\n\nNote that automatic bed levelling is not magic, and a little more complicated to start with, if you order a printer without an auto bed levelling sensor, you will be able to update to one later. E.g. from here:\n\n\n It uses the \"\"LED pin\"\" which is an unused pin on the A8 (using the\n stock 5 button 2004 LCD). That is the third wire counted from below\n (where the red marker is on the cable). I simply spliced the cable and\n cut that wire. This will be the servo signal (yellow).\n\n\n\n\nIf you have an Anet A6 adapted for auto levelling with a 2004 display\n\nWhen the LCD does not light up, this could be caused by incorrect placement of the flat cable, be sure to use the correct socket on the printer board and take care of the orientation. Once you have checked this, and it does not work and you are in the possession of a multimeter, you could measure the voltage over the \"\"VSS\"\" and the \"\"VDD\"\" pin; also look into the voltage over the \"\"VSS\"\" and the \"\"VE\"\" (see pin layout below).\nIf there is power, but no light, the LCD is probably defective. You could try to hook up a computer to the board using a USB cable and use a program like Pronterface to interface with the printer to see if it works at all, the display is not required for printing (e.i. if you can access the printer over USB).\n\n\n\n\n\nIf you have a genuine Anet A6\n\nIt is advised to install an extra flat ribbon cable and check all the wires, please do check for correct polarity and correct installment.\n\nPlease do note the the installation of the Anet A6 LCD display (see this movie and the screenshot from this video below) requires 2 flat ribbon cables to function properly. \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nSidemark on fan ducts:\nBoth the stock and most ring type ducts are not aerodynamically designed fan ducts. The stock fan converges too much, this narrowing of the duct causes extra pressure build-up which these fans are not able to handle, so they stall, causing a reduced flow output of the fan. The (semi) circular fan ducts usually also have a design problem. The (semi) circular ones all (but one that I have seen) have the same deficiency that the main passage area does not decrease when the duct loses air through a slot/ejector; this means that the velocity in the main ring decreases after each bleed slot! Note that these fans move air and do not build up a high pressure difference that is large enough to overcome the friction of those designs.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n7556,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jase Kaeberlein,3.0576060275493275,4.251770213416618,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,0.7766301205685938,First time assemble of Anet A6 printer. Only fan works,\"I bought an Anet A6-L printer (after some research I discovered that this is not a genuine Anet A6) and assembled it. The first time I plugged it in, the fan (fan 2, I believe) is the only thing that turns on. Also, the LCD screen (LCD2004 5 button display) only had 1 cord, and 1 jack for the cord to plug in on the back of the screen, but 2 openings on the motherboard. The fan turns on for around 30 seconds, then turns off. I have the anet A6 printer, with the V1-5 motherboard. I have everything else (fans, motors, hotbed, power) plugged into the right ports. I haven't plugged in the micro SD (TF) card yet, I turned it on to test it. \n\nI am using a modified part that replaces the windpipe/fan duct (white) and redirects the airflow around it and inwards from a ring around the tip, but that is the only modification I have made. I have not messed with the power supply (other than wiring it in). Same with the motherboard. I tested it also without the modification for the fan duct but it still has the same problem.\n\n\n\n\n\",Jason,\"I also ordered an A8, but was sent a A6-L, after doing my homework, I am very happy. The A6-L is an upgraded A8. It uses same board as A6 but has a A8 display (5 button), that's why people have extra LCD spot. The A6-L is a better frame (full front), better carriage set up ( horizontal vs vertical, resulting in better weight distribution and allowing for higher builds ). As far as fans go, the cooling fan only comes on when printing and told to (there is a setting in menu (make sure fan is on, as well as check cura settings for when and how much fan should come on). The Auto leveler that comes with it says to plug into Z limit switch, ( basically it replaces the z-switch all together). Thingaverse has better fan/sensor holders you can print. Remember Google/YouTube is your friend. I found out after lots of searching.\n\nA simple google search answers everything. The A8 was the 1st printer released by Anet, followed by the A6. Check out links. Look at pictures and description and comparison. Or just Google it. \n\n\nA8= \\$ cheapest, flimsy frame, off balanced extruder carriage, uses belt to drive Z. \nA6= \\$\\$\\$ MOST EXPENSIVE of 3Full frame, better balanced carriage, LCD screen w/ knob, no Z belt. \nA6-L= \\$\\$ Middle Cost, A6 frame, carriage, no Z belt, but A8 screen and buttons \n\n\nANET A6-L\n\nhttps://www.banggood.com/Anet-A6-L5-DIY-3D-Printer-Kit-With-Auto-leveling-220220250mm-Printing-Size-1_75mm-0_4mm-Nozzle-p-1209606.html?cur_warehouse=CN\n\nCOMPARISION\n\nhttps://pevly.com/anet-a8-vs-a6-vs-a3-vs-a2/\n\nAUTO LEVEL\n\n\nAnet a6 autoleveling\n\n\",-2.353748300761693,0.0\n7565,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jim,1.726248027126092,3.914854869016704,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,What is the simplest way to render an image of an obj exported from Tinkercad?,\"I like Tinkercad so far for it's very simple UI. (I'm new to 3D modeling and very confused by Blender and the like.) However, I'm not using it to do 3D printing just yet. For I'd like to be able to be to slap textures on the models I make and get images of that. What is the easiest beginner way to do that (for Linux OS)?\n\nAlternately, displaying the .obj directly in the browser with a texture would be great, too.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"For your purposes, consider that Meshmixer (free) can open .OBJ files and display them in any position you desire.\n\nI use Meshmixer quite a bit for model editing, but have not used it for .OBJ files with textures. I searched my drive and found quite a few .OBJ files, but was not able to present or add textures, due to my own ignorance, I'm sure.\n\nI found a useful link to a support page on the 'net which indicates that there has to be a texture file as well as a definition file (.MTL) in order to display the textures in Meshmixer. Using that reference, I was able to add a randomly selected .PNG file and apply the texture to a test model.\n\nIf your creations do not include those support files, this may not be a good answer. There's little to lose, however, as the program is free and you may find use for it in the future, or you may find that it works as you require.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7565,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jim,1.726248027126092,3.914854869016704,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,What is the simplest way to render an image of an obj exported from Tinkercad?,\"I like Tinkercad so far for it's very simple UI. (I'm new to 3D modeling and very confused by Blender and the like.) However, I'm not using it to do 3D printing just yet. For I'd like to be able to be to slap textures on the models I make and get images of that. What is the easiest beginner way to do that (for Linux OS)?\n\nAlternately, displaying the .obj directly in the browser with a texture would be great, too.\n\",Trish,\"If you need just a graphical 3D look at them, opening them in any slicing program should create a graphic visualization in relation to the print grid - in glorious 3D. Slicers don't allow to place textures on them though.\n\nOne of the most common slicers among hobbyists, Ultimaker Cura, comes also as a linux distribution, just like a couple more reviewed on all3dp.com\n\nIf slapping textures on your model is a strict demand, then you have to get a proper graphic-design program. Blender, which is a mess, as you mentioned, is one of the most powerful ones out there. But even with blender you don't need to go all deep into learning: if you just want to check out a rough fit of the looks, it can be used for a 3D visualization. It can be helpful to use the vertex-paint mode to mark some areas as you spin the model around. And if you dig deeper into the matter, you can make an UV-map easily.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7573,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Michael Hudlow,1.726248027126092,6.138381931131159,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Creality Ender 3 - printing in front of the build plate,\"I am trying to print my first test but my Creality Ender 3 starts printing near the front edge and within 10 seconds is printing in front of the tray (off onto my table). I really think it should be starting the print in the middle and then never going so close to the edge and even over it\n\nWhat can I do?\n\",Trish,\"The Ender 3 has its standard homing position not set to a point on the build plate but rather at the physical position of the endstops. That is a couple millimeter in front and at the side of the front left corner. To make it clear, home or (0,0,0) is not the center of the build plate but some millimeters off the front-left corner.\n\nTo move the home position away from the physical switch positions and onto the build plate's front left corner - should you want to - you will need to switch the firmware of your printer.\n\nA walkthrough I had with an Ender3 (the same machine type) is at Recalibrating Home Position\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7573,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Michael Hudlow,1.726248027126092,6.138381931131159,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Creality Ender 3 - printing in front of the build plate,\"I am trying to print my first test but my Creality Ender 3 starts printing near the front edge and within 10 seconds is printing in front of the tray (off onto my table). I really think it should be starting the print in the middle and then never going so close to the edge and even over it\n\nWhat can I do?\n\",0scar,\"When a print is not printing on the build platform, you either:\n\n\nHave the incorrect settings in the slicer (e.g. Ultimaker Cura, a common mistake is that the \"\"origin at center\"\" option is active), or\nHave the center of the bed incorrectly stored in your firmware. (See: How to center my prints on the build platform? or Recalibrating Home-position).\n\n\nNote that the most simple change (after you verified the slicer settings and confirmed that it still does not print in the center) is adjusting the settings in the slicer (bed settings, of start G-code script), this way you do not need to compile and upload new firmware (e.g. if you are uncomfortable or inexperienced in doing so), but, fixing it in the firmware is the best solution. Why? If you change the offset in the slicer you force the bed dimensions to a new position that you know where it is, while if changed in the firmware, the printer \"\"knows\"\" the actual size and the limits.\n\n\n\nTo fully answer your question, we need a little more information what slicer you use and what the current settings are. From your question it sounds as if the offset is more than a few millimeters. Usually this hints to an incorrect slicer setting (frequently Ultimaker Cura).\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n7580,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,David Gebbett,1.726248027126092,3.3416816473626416,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Layer shifting on product printing after raft support structure,\"First post here, so please forgive me for any silly mistakes.\n\nRecently the y-axis (I think, forward-backward) has started skipping forward when printing the first layer of my print. It prints the raft with no issues at all, sticks the bed nice and flat and the raft is perfect every time. \n\nThen it starts to print the actual item, but every time it starts to the print the back right corner the Y-Axis jumps or skips on the gears and makes a loud grinding noise. The amount it jumps varies on the print, but always jumps towards the front of the print. It doesn't matter on the size of the print or the position, it always jumps forward never back.\n\nThe printer is a Makerbot Replikator clone, from eBay. The X & Y moves the extruder. I have tried upgrading and downgrading the software (which uses Makerbot software) I am unsure if I can update the firmware.\n\nAny help much appreciated.\n\nUPDATE:\nImage has been attached of the failed part, excuse the colour, I use it for my test prints. This is orientation it printed on the bed. First 3 blocks printed fine, 4th one jumped It printed in the following order 1. top-left, 2. bottom left, 3. bottom right, 4. top right.\n\n\n\",0scar,\"Layer shifting is a result of the use of open-loop control systems. This means that the printer just instructs the head to go to certain positions without checking that it actually did arrive at that position. If something happens along the path, like hitting some part of the print or the printer, the motors could loose steps or the belts may skip teeth without the printer knowing it, so it continues further without correcting this.\n\nThere are a couple of causes for the skipping to occur. Usually it is a mechanical issue, but it can also be related to an electrical problem or a print settings problem (if e.g. your print speed it too high, the steppers could miss steps).\n\nLooking closely at the image, you will see that the infill of the first layer does not touch the outer lines. This could be a hint that your belts are not tight enough (mechanical issue). Too loose belts cause the stepper driving pulley to skip. Also check the pulley whether it is securely fastened so that the pulley is not slipping when subjected to an increased torque. The nozzle most probably hits the raft (ABS? as it curls up and detaches, you see some irregularities on the left of the bottom right product in your image). Do note that too tight belts are also not wanted as they stress the stepper by an increased torque load. If the issue is electronically related, you could thick of increasing the torque by increasing the current through the stepper (and driver). Too much current will overheat the stepper driver though, so make sure that these do not exceed their rated maximum and properly cool the stepper drivers.\n\nTo solve your issues it is recommended to first try printing at lower speeds (this can be skipped if you already have low print speeds), then check the mechanical system of the printer, and finally, if this does not fix the problem, you could look into the electronics.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7580,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,David Gebbett,1.726248027126092,3.3416816473626416,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Layer shifting on product printing after raft support structure,\"First post here, so please forgive me for any silly mistakes.\n\nRecently the y-axis (I think, forward-backward) has started skipping forward when printing the first layer of my print. It prints the raft with no issues at all, sticks the bed nice and flat and the raft is perfect every time. \n\nThen it starts to print the actual item, but every time it starts to the print the back right corner the Y-Axis jumps or skips on the gears and makes a loud grinding noise. The amount it jumps varies on the print, but always jumps towards the front of the print. It doesn't matter on the size of the print or the position, it always jumps forward never back.\n\nThe printer is a Makerbot Replikator clone, from eBay. The X & Y moves the extruder. I have tried upgrading and downgrading the software (which uses Makerbot software) I am unsure if I can update the firmware.\n\nAny help much appreciated.\n\nUPDATE:\nImage has been attached of the failed part, excuse the colour, I use it for my test prints. This is orientation it printed on the bed. First 3 blocks printed fine, 4th one jumped It printed in the following order 1. top-left, 2. bottom left, 3. bottom right, 4. top right.\n\n\n\",Marcus Adams,\"I'm guessing that the bed in the offending corner is farther away and your raft is curling and lifting off the bed in that corner, and your nozzle it hitting it. Try releveling your bed, paying particular close attention to that corner. In addition, work on bed adhesion in general. Clean the bed, make sure fan is off on first layer, and go slow on first layer, and use proper bed temp for the material. You can also try glue stick.\n\",0.0,0.0\n7582,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,2012User,1.0891412423578797,3.9012575101420204,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Why does my DIY printer start printing in air?,\"I've built a DIY 3D printer similar to Prusa i3. It does homing and bed leveling very well with a PNP Lj12a3_4_Z_BY sensor using G28 and G29.\n\n\n\nHowever, when I push the print button on Pronterface or Simplify3D, Z axis goes up about 20mm and starts printing in air. I can't figure out what is going wrong.\n\",2012User,\"If the cad model was imported from Solidworks into Simplify3D. Push \"\"Center and Arrange\"\" button to place the model in the middle of the Heat Bed. There might be a gap between the object and bed level that is hard to see. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7784,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,2012User,2.1782824847157594,4.635346415086903,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,\"How to test Arduino Mega, RAMPS 1.4 and Full Graphic Smart Controller LCD?\",\"Unfortunately, my extruder 8825 driver ended up fried. I guess this might have damaged the Arduino Mega and RAMPS Board.\n\nI tested the Arduino Mega and I'm pretty sure that it is fried too, so I bought a new one. I thought the MOSFETs on the RAMPS are damaged, so I removed them and tested them. One of them was not working, so I bought a new RAMPS Board too\n\nNow I have a new 8825 driver, a new Arduino Mega and a new RAMPS 1.4 but the LCD still doesn't show anything and it just lights up on power up.\n\",0scar,\"So basically you just replaced everything except for the LCD (the LCD testing is described a little further). If the LCD is not working then, this could imply that either your LCD is broken, or one of the new parts is not functioning as expected, or you have not connected things correctly. \n\nAre you sure the firmware flash went okay? You could test the Arduino Mega 2560 by connecting it over USB to e.g. Pronterface, you do not need the LCD for testing the Arduino Mega and the RAMPS.\n\nThe LCD could be tested separately by creating a sketch in Arduino IDE and connect the correct pins of the LCD cable to some pins of an Arduino device, e.g. load the the U8Glib example sketch \"\"GraphicsTest\"\" and add the following constructor:\n\n\nU8GLIB_ST7920_128X64_1X u8g(6, 5, 4); // SPI Com: SCK = en = 6, MOSI = rw = 5, CS = di = 4\n\n\nThis implies that you need to attach the correct pins on the Arduino (in my case to digital pins 6, 5 and 4 for respectively SCK, MOSI and CS to the respective EXP1 pins 5, 3 and 4):\n\n\n\n\n\nNote that you see 5 pins attached, as the LCD needs to be powered (pin 10 on the EXP1 header) and grounded (pin 9 on the EXP1 header).\n\n\n\nI wired this on an Arduino Uno clone and confirmed that 2 of the spare RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller clones showed the test program.\n\nPS, this is a simple wiring of the LCD, it displays the test in fade blue-ish, so not the bright colored white pixels, but that is normal!\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7804,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,2012User,0.0,3.8966643527406504,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Calibration of Z axis in Simplify 3D,\"I'm using Simplify3d and a DIY 3D printer. The printer works fine and I've printed very nice objects with very smooth and beautiful surfaces BUT they are twice as tall as they should be! It is like they're scaled double in Z axis! I've checked everything, I changed steps/mm from 4000 to 2000 but it ruined the smooth surface. changing layer height just makes smoother surface and doesn't solve the problem. What am I missing in the settings?\n\n\",0scar,\"The steps per mm in firmware is the link to the hardware configuration/setup. Reducing by half must reduce Z advance by half. If your prints are twice as tall, you must have serious under-extrusion problems as when the printer is laying down molten filament for e.g. a 0.2 mm layer, in effect this is a 0.4 mm layer. If this is not the case, you should also calibrate the extruder.\n\nPlease re-calibrate your machine Z axis in firmware (most firmwares allow command M92 to set the steps per mm), not in Simplify3d, and then the extruder.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n8256,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,2012User,2.528907649931287,4.27336973029714,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,MKS 12864OLED Display setup,\"I've bought MKS 12864OLED and connected to my DIY 3d printer with Mega/RAMPS combination. In Marlin's configuration.h file there are these lines to uncomment:\n\n// MKS OLED 1.3\"\" 128 × 64 FULL GRAPHICS CONTROLLER\n// http://reprap.org/wiki/MKS_12864OLED\n//\n// Tiny, but very sharp OLED display\n//\n//#define MKS_12864OLED // Uses the SH1106 controller (default)\n//#define MKS_12864OLED_SSD1306 // Uses the SSD1306 controller\n\n\nI'm not sure to choose between 'SH1106' or 'SSD1306'... either way, the LCD module is not working.\n\n\n\n\",0scar,\"First of all let me state that I do not own the module! The analysis below is based on old patches that worked in a version of Marlin in 2015, and translated to the latest version of Marlin of the 1.1.x branch. This is 1.1.9; this is the last version of the 1.1.x branch, all new development takes place in branch bugfix-2.0.x (dated May 2019).\n\n\n\nThe reported patches are compatible with an earlier version of Marlin Firmware (a version from 2015). Clearly this doesn't work anymore, but that should not be a problem, if it worked then it should work now provided we configure it correctly. The display you have requires U8GLIB_SSD1306, so the U8GLIB library need to be installed in your Arduino IDE!\n\nLet's follow this installation guide for the older version as an example.\n\nFirst, from patch 1 it becomes clear that you'll need to define that you are using a display that is identified by its name/type, you should uncomment the following line in your configuration.h in the section:\n\n\n//=============================================================================\n//======================== LCD / Controller Selection =========================\n//======================== (Character-based LCDs) =========================\n//=============================================================================\n\n\n\n\n//#define MKS_12864OLED_SSD1306 // Uses the SSD1306 controller\n\n\nto:\n\n\n#define MKS_12864OLED_SSD1306 // Uses the SSD1306 controller\n\n\nas you are using the SSD1306 controller according to this reference.\n\nThat is about the only thing you add in the configuration.h file! You only activate the name of the controller type (as in defining a constant) so that it is caught in other source or header files to do/trigger something.\n\nWith this change, you automatically activated the rest of patch as that is implemented in Conditionals_LCD.h!\n\nNext, we need to address patch 2. This is addressed in ultralcd_impl_DOGM.h; here you will find:\n\n\n#elif ENABLED(MKS_12864OLED_SSD1306)\n // MKS 128x64 (SSD1306) OLED I2C LCD\n U8GLIB_SSD1306_128X64 u8g(DOGLCD_SCK, DOGLCD_MOSI, DOGLCD_CS, DOGLCD_A0); // 8 stripes\n //U8GLIB_SSD1306_128X64_2X u8g(DOGLCD_SCK, DOGLCD_MOSI, DOGLCD_CS, DOGLCD_A0); // 4 stripes\n\nwhich clearly differs from the patch:\n\n\nU8GLIB_SSD1306_128X64 u8g(23, 17, 16, 25); // SW SPI Com: SCK = 23, MOSI = 17, CS = 16, A0 = 25\n\n\nas such that it uses numbers instead of constants. So we need to define these constants first. These constants are defined by the board you are using, more specifically the pin layout. \n\nLooking at the pin layout of your RAMPS board:\n\n\n #if ENABLED(MKS_12864OLED) || ENABLED(MKS_12864OLED_SSD1306)\n #define LCD_PINS_DC 25 // Set as output on init\n #define LCD_PINS_RS 27 // Pull low for 1s to init\n // DOGM SPI LCD Support\n #define DOGLCD_CS 16\n #define DOGLCD_MOSI 17\n #define DOGLCD_SCK 23\n #define DOGLCD_A0 LCD_PINS_DC\n\n\nyou'll find that the pins are correctly configured with the fore mentioned:\n\nU8GLIB_SSD1306_128X64 u8g(DOGLCD_SCK, DOGLCD_MOSI, DOGLCD_CS, DOGLCD_A0); // 8 stripes\n\n\nWe move on to patch 3. This patch deals with the reset/initialization of the OLED display. This is also already taken care of in ultralcd_impl_DOGM.h:\n\n\n #if PIN_EXISTS(LCD_RESET)\n OUT_WRITE(LCD_RESET_PIN, LOW); // perform a clean hardware reset\n _delay_ms(5);\n OUT_WRITE(LCD_RESET_PIN, HIGH);\n _delay_ms(5); // delay to allow the display to initalize\n #endif\n\n\nNext to patch 4, in pins_RAMPS.h you see that pin 25 and 27 are correctly defined (apart from the name LCD_PINS_RST, now without T, but that is fine!):\n\n #if ENABLED(MKS_12864OLED) || ENABLED(MKS_12864OLED_SSD1306)\n #define LCD_PINS_DC 25 // Set as output on init\n #define LCD_PINS_RS 27 // Pull low for 1s to init\n\n\nThe only difference is that pins\n\n #define LCD_PINS_D5\n #define LCD_PINS_D6\n\n\nare not set to -1, so to be consistent, you should change pins_RAMPS.h to:\n\n\n #if ENABLED(MKS_12864OLED) || ENABLED(MKS_12864OLED_SSD1306)\n #define LCD_PINS_DC 25 // Set as output on init\n #define LCD_PINS_RS 27 // Pull low for 1s to init\n // DOGM SPI LCD Support\n #define DOGLCD_CS 16\n #define DOGLCD_MOSI 17\n #define DOGLCD_SCK 23\n #define DOGLCD_A0 LCD_PINS_DC\n #define LCD_PINS_D5 -1\n #define LCD_PINS_D6 -1\n #else\n #define LCD_PINS_RS 16\n #define LCD_PINS_ENABLE 17\n #define LCD_PINS_D4 23\n #define LCD_PINS_D5 25\n #define LCD_PINS_D6 27\n #endif\n\n\nA conclusion from the analysis above is that you enable the display in your configuration file and add the 2 values of -1 for D5 and D6, but I don't think they cause problems if they're not initialized to -1. Be sure that the cables are connected correctly. Some modules have reported upside down connectors.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n8272,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,2012User,2.528907649931287,4.132185323536744,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Connecting OLED 128x64 LCD; dogm_lcd_implementation.h is missing for patching,\"I'm trying to install a MKS 12864 0.96 OLED for my DIY 3D printer (see this other question). \n\nIt's not listed in Marlin's LCD section of configuration.h and according to some instructions, I need to do some modification to a file named dogm_lcd_implementation.h which is missing in Marlin 1.1.9! \n\nWhere is it? How can I install my LCD module?\n\",0scar,\"Question History\n\nAn answer on your previous question discusses patches for installing the LCD module in your Marlin printer firmware. Note that these patches are very old (around 2015). Many things have changed since then (as is acknowledged there). That answer does not work for recent versions of Marlin source code!\n\nAnswer\n\nYes, your observation of the dogm_lcd_implementation.h file being missing in the 1.1.9 version of Marlin is correct. But, I believe it is not lost, all code and further development can be found in ultralcd_impl_DOGM.h. There are some older versions of the file wondering over internet, e.g. here or from this older Marlin cloned repository.\n\nI believe that your 2nd patch:\n\n\n/*---------------MKS OLED patch_2-----------------------*/\n#elif defined(U8GLIB_SSD1306)\nU8GLIB_SSD1306_128X64 u8g(23, 17, 16, 25); // SW SPI Com: SCK = 23, MOSI = 17, CS = 16, A0 = 25\n/*---------------MKS OLED patch_2-----------------------*/\n\n\nshould be placed in ultralcd_impl_DOGM.h just under:\n\n\n#elif ENABLED(MINIPANEL)\n // The MINIPanel display\n //U8GLIB_MINI12864 u8g(DOGLCD_CS, DOGLCD_A0); // 8 stripes\n U8GLIB_MINI12864_2X u8g(DOGLCD_CS, DOGLCD_A0); // 4 stripes\n\n\nand before:\n\n\n#else\n // for regular DOGM128 display with HW-SPI\n //U8GLIB_DOGM128 u8g(DOGLCD_CS, DOGLCD_A0); // HW-SPI Com: CS, A0 // 8 stripes\n U8GLIB_DOGM128_2X u8g(DOGLCD_CS, DOGLCD_A0); // HW-SPI Com: CS, A0 // 4 stripes\n#endif\n\n\nto create:\n\n\n#elif ENABLED(MINIPANEL)\n // The MINIPanel display\n //U8GLIB_MINI12864 u8g(DOGLCD_CS, DOGLCD_A0); // 8 stripes\n U8GLIB_MINI12864_2X u8g(DOGLCD_CS, DOGLCD_A0); // 4 stripes\n#elif ENABLED(U8GLIB_SSD1306)\n // SW SPI Com: SCK = 23, MOSI = 17, CS = 16, A0 = 25\n U8GLIB_SSD1306_128X64 u8g(23, 17, 16, 25); \n#else\n // for regular DOGM128 display with HW-SPI\n //U8GLIB_DOGM128 u8g(DOGLCD_CS, DOGLCD_A0); // HW-SPI Com: CS, A0 // 8 stripes\n U8GLIB_DOGM128_2X u8g(DOGLCD_CS, DOGLCD_A0); // HW-SPI Com: CS, A0 // 4 stripes\n#endif\n\n\nDo note that there already exists an entry for U8GLIB_SSD1306! This has to be deleted, or you need to put the code in that section (un-commenting existing code)! \n\nE.g.\n\n\n#elif ENABLED(U8GLIB_SSD1306)\n // Generic support for SSD1306 OLED I2C LCDs\n //U8GLIB_SSD1306_128X64 u8g(U8G_I2C_OPT_NONE | U8G_I2C_OPT_FAST); // 8 stripes\n U8GLIB_SSD1306_128X64_2X u8g(U8G_I2C_OPT_NONE | U8G_I2C_OPT_FAST); // 4 stripes\n\n\ncould be altered to:\n\n\n#elif ENABLED(U8GLIB_SSD1306)\n // Generic support for SSD1306 OLED I2C LCDs\n //U8GLIB_SSD1306_128X64 u8g(U8G_I2C_OPT_NONE | U8G_I2C_OPT_FAST); // 8 stripes\n //U8GLIB_SSD1306_128X64_2X u8g(U8G_I2C_OPT_NONE | U8G_I2C_OPT_FAST); // 4 stripes\n // SW SPI Com: SCK = 23, MOSI = 17, CS = 16, A0 = 25\n U8GLIB_SSD1306_128X64 u8g(23, 17, 16, 25);\n\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n8721,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,2012User,2.8153892694839717,4.204944762672519,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Configuring of MKS_GEN_L V1.0,\"I've bought a new \"\"MKS GEN_L V1.0\"\" and I'm trying to configure it with Marlin 1.1.X. I changed motherboard in configuration.h from previous:\n\n#define BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFB 33 //RAMPS 1.3 (Power outputs:Hotend,Fan,Bed) \n\nto \n\n#define BOARD_MKS_GEN_L 53 //MKS GEN L. \n\nI'm getting this error:\n\npins.h:268: error: #error \"\"**Unknown MOTHERBOARD value set in Configuration.h**\"\"\n #error \"\"Unknown MOTHERBOARD value set in Configuration.h\"\"\n ^\n In file included from sketch\\MarlinConfig.h:42:0,\n from sketch\\G26_Mesh_Validation_Tool.cpp:27:\n\nSanityCheck.h:58: error: #error \"\"MOTHERBOARD is required. Please update your configuration.\"\"\n #error \"\"MOTHERBOARD is required. Please update your configuration.\"\"\n ^\n SanityCheck.h:786: error: #error \"\"**Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN requires the Z_MIN_PIN to be defined.**\"\"\n #error \"\"Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN requires the Z_MIN_PIN to be defined.\"\"\n\n ^\n SanityCheck.h:942: error: #error \"\"**LCD_BED_LEVELING requires an LCD controller.**\"\"\n #error \"\"LCD_BED_LEVELING requires an LCD controller.\"\"\n ^\n\nSanityCheck.h:1084: error: #error \"\"**HEATER_0_PIN not defined for this board.**\"\"\n #error \"\"HEATER_0_PIN not defined for this board.\"\"\n ^\n exit status 1\n#error \"\"Unknown MOTHERBOARD value set in Configuration.h\"\"\n\n\n\n\",2012User,\"The motherboard definition in configuration.h should be written like:\n\n#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_MKS_GEN_L\n\n\nactually the word MOTHERBOARD was missing and there is no need to write 53 //MKS GEN L at the end.\n\nThe number definition is declared in boards.h - you just confused the two files, indeed you should not forget to define the motherboard constant itself. Do note that this is basically a RAMPS board, see pins_MKS_GEN_L.h.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n9870,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,2012User,1.726248027126092,3.21690480613165,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How to decrease sensitivity to heat-bed temperature?,\"Sometimes I use a DIY 3D printer running Marlin firmware and I have a hard time to set my heat bed temperature. when I set it to 70 °C for PLA, after a few minutes it decreases to 67 °C and I see these error:\n\nREAD: Error:Thermal Runaway, system stopped! Heater_ID: bed\nREAD: Error:Printer halted. kill() called!\n\n\nSince then the communication with printer is lost, the printing process stops and I have to reconnect to serial port... It's a disaster. I guess I need to lower the sensitivity to 3 degrees at least. I don't know how!?\n\",Nach0z,\"I had a similar issue when printing with ABS, because my print cooling fan only activated once it got to a certain height above the bed. I'd say you need to do a PID tuning session, insulate the bottom of the bed better, and see if you can make sure your cooling fan doesn't blow air over the bed itself.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11144,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,2012User,1.0891412423578797,2.7548616721246675,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Making Polyurethane molds with PLA (or ABS) 3D printed master,\"I want to make Polyurethane molds for concrete using 3D printed PLA or ABS master object. like this video:\n\n\r\n \r\n (this video is not about concrete of course!)\n\nI'm not sure if it will stick to PLA or ABS master or not! if it does stick, whick wax material can solve this problem... Do I need to print my masters with another filament?\n\n \n\",Trish,\"Temperature\n\nAs polyurethane cures (or hardens), it undergoes a chemical bonding reaction, linking the mono- and oligomer strings in the components into long polyurethane chains. The chemical reaction is exothermic, it creates heat.\n\nSo, we have a process that heats up the polyurethane mixture as it hardens, but how much? Well, it's hard to find numbers for it, but I suspect it can easily reach 30 to 40 °C, depending on the mixture (fast curing) it could easily go higher. To combat the effects of heat softening of the PLA/ABS model inside the mold, I strongly suggest printing with extra shells and extra infill. While most items can get away with 10 %, in this case, I suggest 20-30 %. ABS would be the superior choice above PLA as it starts to deform at a higher temperature. PLA can start to deform at around 60 °C, ABS only at about 80 °C.\n\nThe temperature of the PU curing depends on the speed of the curing process - it is safer for the masters to choose a slower curing mix as the heat is generated over a longer time and the maximum temperature is thus lower as a result (as excess heat is lost to the room)\n\nSurface\n\nTo reduce the sticking to the surface from the material creeping into the gaps of the model, it has to be as smooth as possible and best also sealed. If you choose ABS, a quick acetone vapor bath would do the trick in this case. PLA should be lacquer sealed as it doesn't like to stick to most waxes.\n\nAdding a mold release agent isn't necessarily needed, but could help in removing the masters from the mold.\n\nConclusion\n\nABS might be the better choice in this application. It is advisable to use extra-thick walls (3+), a lot of infill (20-30 %) and a vapor smoothed surface.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n11202,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,2012User,1.0891412423578797,2.115441093325155,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How to make symmetric Low-Poly objects in meshmixer?,\"I've made low-poly objects using Reduce function in Meshmixer. My objects are symmetric and I want to keep the symmetry in the low-poly because it's more beautiful, But the software doesn't necessary keep the symmetry.\nusing mirror function results in losing flat faces and many problems...\nIs there any specific way to make a symmetric low-poly?\n\",Trish,\"The best way would be to follow a four-step workflow:\n\n\nReduce complexity.\nCut the object along the symmetry plane.\nDiscard one half of the object.\nMirror the cut object along the cut symmetry plane.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7591,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kane,2.8153892694839717,3.0158611934564274,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,What is this part and does it have to do with my my z-position is messed up?,\"I recently bought my first 3d printer, a monoprice maker select v2.\n\nAfter a couple of print jobs, this piece fell out.\n\n\n\nI have no idea where it came from.\n\nBut afterwards, I notice that my Z-positioning is all screwed up.\n\nWhen I select \"\"Home All\"\" to reset all positions to do bed leveling, the extruder tries to push down pass the build-platform, puncturing a hole into the plastic bed cover.\nThere was a lot of clicking from the motor so I immediately turned it off.\n\nI turned it back on and then tried to move the z-position back up. But it moves only about an inch up before the motor starts clicking again. \n\nI was reading some other posts about a \"\"Z-axis limiter switch\"\". Could that be what the little metal fork-like piece is? \nWhere does it go and how do I put it back?\nAnd how do I reset my z-position?\n\nAny help appreciated.\n\",Trish,\"Limiter Switch/Endstop\n\nThat is the lever that is meant to trigger your Z-Endstop. The variant used in your case is on the cheaper end and is meant to look similar to this QIAOH KN12-1 limit switch:\n\n\n\nYou will either exchange the endstop as a whole, somehow reattach the/a lever or change the physical position of the endstop so that the moving X-axis is triggering it (again). \n\nReplacement & Wiring advice\n\nPretty much any switch that can have both an NC/NO (normally closed/normally open) state will function in its state, but it is usually a good idea to have all safety switches (like limit switches) be NC types and have the firmware detect the loss of signal as a safety feature. In case of a broken cable, this will automatically force the machine to halt, instead of keeping the machine moving despite having reached the maximum position.\n\nNormally Open/Closed\n\nIt is even possible to wire up a number of redundant switches into one circuit. For NC setup, all the switches need to go in series, so that any switch getting toggled cuts the signal at that point. On the other hand, if only NO switches are used, they have to be wired in parallel: the signal passes when any number of switches is closed. \n\nNO switches, because they are parallel, do cost us in the security department, as a broken lead does not halt the machine's use, but they are easier to troubleshoot as a broken component only takes out its specific arm of the parallel circuit. On the other hand, the NC-series does give us the broken lead security, but a single broken component that stays switched to open disables the whole series and identifying the broken component can take more time.\n\nNOT-Gates\n\nAs you can imagine, some clever electronics allow us to use us to turn an NO into an NC and vice versa. This clever piece is a NOT-gate, sometimes also called inverter. They take a logic signal and a supply voltage lead, and only allow the supply voltage to pass into their output if there is no signal in their input side. So, they allow using a NO switch as an NC switch or vice versa. In any case, the NOT-gate needs to be on the output side the switch(es) it shall invert as it only inverts the signal that happens before it in the circuit.\n\nWith this clever piece, one can use a combination of NO and NC switches, if one so desires: The NO and NC parts are to be wired separately in groups (the NC group in series, the NO group(s) in parallel). To combine the two signals, there are two ways: Either run the NO output through the NOT-gate into the NC circuit's input, putting it into the series (and making it technically function as a single NC-element), or put the NC group output signal into the NOT-gate and put both groups in parallel. In either case, the NOT-gate 'flips' the function of the switches to behave as if they were the other type: from NC to NO and vice versa.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n7592,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kane,2.1782824847157594,3.3916584347368426,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,What do you recommend for removing prints from Monoprice Maker Select bed?,\"I've been making some ABS prints, but it's really hard to remove it afterwards.\nI've read a lot of different ways of removing it, including using the included chisel/spatula, using air duster, 50/50 alcohol/water, reheating the bed...\n\nI've also read about using a flexible bed that can flex it out. I'm eager to try this approach but don't know what magnetic bed I should get that's compatible with it.\n\nBut if you have other tricks for it, please let me know. Thanks!\n\",Valmond,\"When all other things have failed, I chuck the build plate in the freezer for half an hour.\n\nThe glassplate and the plastic changes size differently when changing temperature and 'pop' it just snaps off easily.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7592,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kane,2.1782824847157594,3.3916584347368426,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,What do you recommend for removing prints from Monoprice Maker Select bed?,\"I've been making some ABS prints, but it's really hard to remove it afterwards.\nI've read a lot of different ways of removing it, including using the included chisel/spatula, using air duster, 50/50 alcohol/water, reheating the bed...\n\nI've also read about using a flexible bed that can flex it out. I'm eager to try this approach but don't know what magnetic bed I should get that's compatible with it.\n\nBut if you have other tricks for it, please let me know. Thanks!\n\",Tal,\"After having similar issues to you, and becoming frustrated with having to scrape and pry so much, I bought a removeable magnetic build plate. I'm not extremely happy with the exact one I purchased, so I won't link it directly, but the concept and general execution is wonderful, compared to the standard build plate on the Maker Select. \n\nAny magnetic build plate that says it's 200x200 should fit, though I'd recommend getting a larger one and cutting it to size - the one I bought is 200x200 exactly and leaves quite a bit of space around the build area that seems like lost space.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7774,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kane,2.528907649931287,2.7905764474501265,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Why does my model stop printing at the same spot?,\"I have a Monoprice Maker Select v2 printer which has a printing height of 7\"\".\n\nI tried to print this trophy.\n\nThe first time I printed, it stopped about 3/4 of the way (about 5.5\"\").\n\nI use Ultimaker Cura to move the model's z-position down, effectively splitting it in half to print the top half. But on the 2nd print, it seems to have stopped at the same point. There was a lot of extra PLA filament curled up at the end.\n\n\n\n\n\nDid my printer just jam or am I missing a setting that allows it to print the remaining top portion?\n\",0scar,\"The answer is that you have not used support structures. The printing fails as a result of missing support structures.\n\nIf you look closely to the Ace of Clubs card at the top, you will see that the lower point is being printed from out of nothing, this corner needs to be supported. When unsupported, the extruded filament flows freely and where it deposits is unknown. Usually this extruded filament sticks to the nozzle or ends up stuck at the next piece of the printed layer building up. This build-up can cause the head to hit the print and ruin the print.\n\nTo enable support in Ultimaker Cura configure your setting accordingly:\n\n\nThese settings are accessible when you select custom settings:\n\n\nIf the options aren't visible, use:\n\nand type in the option.\n\nPlease do note that using supports does not guarantee that the print will not fail! Especially when using long slender support structures, the chance that a support structure fails increases with the amount of support structures and the length of the structure. Sometimes long slender support structures are knocked over.\n\n\n\nSidenote:\nYour printer has more issues, if you look at the brim, it is not a continuous bed adhesion layer, it looks like it does not adhere too well, see also the bottom of your trophy.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n7800,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kane,0.0,3.1093304690984147,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.551027839747059,My print failed and looks charred,\"I started a print on my Monoprice Select v2 and let it run.\nI'm printing with Dikale PLA at 200 °C extruder and 60 °C build plate temperatures. My initial layer speed is 30mm/s then 60mm/s after that. \nAlthough the Monoprice comes with an aluminum build plate, I put on a FYSETC magnetic bed plate which says it's suitable for PLA printing between 50 °C - 80 °C.\n\nWhen I returned home, the print had been lifted off the build plate. I used a brim and even applied magigoo gluestick to help it stick but that didn't do the trick.\n\nI also noticed it's charred at one corner. Any idea of what this might be a symptom of?\n\nHere's what was printed\n\n\",dgrat,\"1) You have a layer shift. I guess the shift is caused by an overheating stepper driver, because it started relatively late, but could be also a mechanical issue.\n\n2) Print bed adhesion is a minor problem. Just test your printer with a simpler shape (large ground area).\n\n3) After carbonization, your nozzle might be clogged. Make sure there is an even extrusion.\n\",0.0,0.0\n7800,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kane,0.0,3.1093304690984147,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.551027839747059,My print failed and looks charred,\"I started a print on my Monoprice Select v2 and let it run.\nI'm printing with Dikale PLA at 200 °C extruder and 60 °C build plate temperatures. My initial layer speed is 30mm/s then 60mm/s after that. \nAlthough the Monoprice comes with an aluminum build plate, I put on a FYSETC magnetic bed plate which says it's suitable for PLA printing between 50 °C - 80 °C.\n\nWhen I returned home, the print had been lifted off the build plate. I used a brim and even applied magigoo gluestick to help it stick but that didn't do the trick.\n\nI also noticed it's charred at one corner. Any idea of what this might be a symptom of?\n\nHere's what was printed\n\n\",Cem Kalyoncu,\"I have a guess and a suggestion. It looks like your bottom most layer is ver thick. Even though most people suggest thick first layer, if it is thicker than 0.25 for 0.4 nozzle it cannot reliably squeeze the plaatic so that it would stick to the bed. I prefer lowering z height in the software (Slic3r allows this) to squish the first layer. \n\nAnother suggestion I would make is to set bed temperature to 55. 60c is glass tranaition temperature of PLA. At that temperature, PLA softens and if you have even the slightest over extrusion, the pressure from nozzle can topple tall objects.\n\nAnd for charring you may want to print a little colder. Not all thermistors are equal and printing too hot causes lots of quality issues. I personally print around 170-180c. If you have layers separating, you are printing too cold. You might want to print some calibration pieces to find parameters for your printer.\n\",0.0,0.0\n7836,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kane,1.726248027126092,3.778765739093726,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,What do you use to keep your blue tape from lifting?,\"I have a few issues with the blue tape, which I'm trying out for the first time.\n\nThe tape seems to warp, bubble and lift from the aluminum plate when it heats and cools and during printing.\nI put some clips on it, but not sure if this is standard.\n\nIt also seems the print is lifting off the tape itself (bottom left corner). I applied some magigoo glue to it. Maybe I shouldn't have done that.\n\nI feel like this print isn't going to make it...\n\n\n\nI'm printing with a Monoprice Select V2, with AmazonBasics ABS with 100 °C bed and 250 °C extruder temperature, at 15 mm/s initial layer speed and 60 mm/s print speed sliced with Ultimaker Cura.\n\",Trish,\"Your printer has a build-tac clone surface. Blue tape does not stick well to that: you would get better results printing directly to the Build tape.\n\nPainter's tape I use only on a flat surface: it works well directly on glass, aluminium or an unheated fiberglass surface.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7836,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kane,1.726248027126092,3.778765739093726,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,What do you use to keep your blue tape from lifting?,\"I have a few issues with the blue tape, which I'm trying out for the first time.\n\nThe tape seems to warp, bubble and lift from the aluminum plate when it heats and cools and during printing.\nI put some clips on it, but not sure if this is standard.\n\nIt also seems the print is lifting off the tape itself (bottom left corner). I applied some magigoo glue to it. Maybe I shouldn't have done that.\n\nI feel like this print isn't going to make it...\n\n\n\nI'm printing with a Monoprice Select V2, with AmazonBasics ABS with 100 °C bed and 250 °C extruder temperature, at 15 mm/s initial layer speed and 60 mm/s print speed sliced with Ultimaker Cura.\n\",0scar,\"The tape probably would stick better to the Aluminum bed than the BuildTak clone sheet you have as it would have had more surface area to bond to. \n\nWhat I found that works best is to print on the bare aluminum bed using a PVA based spray, this can be hairspray or a specific 3D printer product like 3DLAC, or just glue stick. I ditched tape after day one (for reasons you mention) and solely print on aluminium or on glass without a problem, sometimes it sticks too well and the bed needs to cool down to room temperature before I can remove the print. This has been described as an answer to: Should you use hairspray on a metal bed 3D printer?\n.\n\nRemoving the BuildTak clone sheet may be quite laborious if a very sticky adhesive is used (it took me a long time and lots of solvents to remove the goo/glue from a PEI sheet I used once) it is better to try and print on the BuildTak sheet, maybe use PVA based (hair)spray or glue stick.\n\nFurthermore, ABS is more difficult to print than PLA or PETG. Printing ABS is difficult because of the relative large shrinkage when the filament cools. It therefore requires careful heat management (no part cooling, no draft, enclosure, etc.). This filament needs a good surface to build on and requires brims, \"\"mouse ears\"\", adhesive spray or glue to get the first layer to stick and not curl up. Tape at temperatures of 100 °C will become soft and loose its power to stick. Kapton tape might work better.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7867,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kane,1.726248027126092,3.6755458889710138,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,\"What causes this \"\"stringing\"\" and can my print recover from this?\",\"Here's what it looks like\n\n\nThis is the model\nthingiverse linky\n\nIt looks like it couldn't print the edge, but this happened many many hours after printing the brim.\n\nThis did not happen with my 1st attempt at this print. The last print lost adhesion and I had to scrap it. This time, adhesion looks good so not sure why this happened.\n\nPrinting with Monoprice Select V2 with ABS, sliced with Cura. 100C bed / 250C extruder. 15mm/s initial layer speed. 60 mm/s print speed.\n\nUpdate\nIt looks like the printer is starting to smooth it out like so. Still not sure if this will lead to an ok print or will fail because of this layer.\nAnd it seems the stringing area does not have a brim underneath it. Did Cura just not calculate the brim size correctly?\n\n\nUpdate2\nHere's a few screenshots from Cura to show that the model is lying completely flat.\n\n\n\nI let the print go on overnight and here's where I stopped it\n\n\nIt almost seems like the print shifted completely after printing the initial layer. Have you ever seen anything like this or is there anything in my Cura model that would make it do this?\n\",0scar,\"No, your problem is not related to slicing, this is a hardware problem. Your complete print has shifted, this is called layer shift. \n\nThis could happen when the nozzle hits an obstruction while printing while the Y stepper continues. This could lead to skipping teeth on the belts, slipping of the pulley or missing steps. This results in printing over air as the print progresses. This manifests itself as stringing, but in fact is unsupported printing (in the air). In this case it is unrecoverable as the printer has lost the reference frame, it just continues to print with the new reference frame caused by the layer shift. \n\nA Prusa MK3, or any printerboard using trinamic stepper drivers would be able to recover (if the belt and pulley are correctly attached, and steps are missed) as the skipping of steps is detected, in case of a Prusa MK3 the machine will re-home when it detects skipped steps and continue printing. See also this answer for more details.\n\nPossible solutions are increasing the belt tension, increase the stepper torque by increasing the current through the stepper drivers or re-tighten the pulley on the stepper of the Y belt.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n7867,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kane,1.726248027126092,3.6755458889710138,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.3276579603156529,\"What causes this \"\"stringing\"\" and can my print recover from this?\",\"Here's what it looks like\n\n\nThis is the model\nthingiverse linky\n\nIt looks like it couldn't print the edge, but this happened many many hours after printing the brim.\n\nThis did not happen with my 1st attempt at this print. The last print lost adhesion and I had to scrap it. This time, adhesion looks good so not sure why this happened.\n\nPrinting with Monoprice Select V2 with ABS, sliced with Cura. 100C bed / 250C extruder. 15mm/s initial layer speed. 60 mm/s print speed.\n\nUpdate\nIt looks like the printer is starting to smooth it out like so. Still not sure if this will lead to an ok print or will fail because of this layer.\nAnd it seems the stringing area does not have a brim underneath it. Did Cura just not calculate the brim size correctly?\n\n\nUpdate2\nHere's a few screenshots from Cura to show that the model is lying completely flat.\n\n\n\nI let the print go on overnight and here's where I stopped it\n\n\nIt almost seems like the print shifted completely after printing the initial layer. Have you ever seen anything like this or is there anything in my Cura model that would make it do this?\n\",kane,\"Both @Oscar and @Trish have identified the problem in their answers. Upon further investigation, I believe I found the root of the problem.\n\nThe Monoprice Select V2 has what I think is an inherent design flaw with how its wires are routed. The wire can sometimes (1) get caught on the frame (when the y-axis is moving towards its maximum position), (2) get caught between the frame and the print bed preventing the y-axis from reaching the minimum position, and (3) it even hits the y-limit-switch sometimes.\n\nHere's a backview of the printer where you can see problem (1) where the wire can get caught by the frame. You can also see the y-limit-switch and I saw first-hand when the wire bundle caught it, forcing another layer shift in my print.\n\n\nFor problem (1) above, I found this solution seems to help\nthingiverse link\n\nTo resolve all of the wiring issues, you have to unwrap the wires and reroute them. People online say this voids the warranty.\n\nThe wire jamming doesn't always happen. But when you printer moves back and forth along the y-axis hundreds of times for a large print, there's a high probability it snags at some point. This is very frustrating after many hours of printing. And I'm thinking of getting another printer for this reason.\n\nI should note that it looks like Monoprice's next version printer, the Monoprice Select Plus, doesn't seem like it would have this problem since the control unit is integrated and the wires don't seem like they would be in the way.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7881,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kane,2.1782824847157594,4.1189920882906,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,I can't level my bed any more,\"I have a Monoprice Select v2 that I just bought less than 2 months ago. I've manually leveled it on several prints prior.\n\nI noticed a couple of holes in my print bed after my last print, like the extruder pushed into the sheet really hard. They're both on the same side.\n\nI then noticed that the extruder's horizontal bar wasn't leveled so I leveled it. I did this by unplugging the wire to one motor and modified the z-position so that the other connected side would go up. (Is this the proper way of adjusting the horizontal bar?)\n\nAnd then I moved the extruder back into its Home position at z-position 0.\nThat's when I noticed that it seems my extruder barely reaches my print bed even though I have the screws almost loosened to the point of detaching from the thread.\n\nThe extruder z-limit-switch (I think that's what it's called) seems to be pressed so the extruder is as far down as it can go. The controls also show that the z-position is at 0.\n\nSo I'm guessing my print bed somehow lowered. But I don't see how that could possibly be.\n\nAny ideas?\n\nHere are some photos but I'm not even sure what to show really\n\nyou can see the z-limit-switch in the right of this pic next to the letter A's\n\nyou can see my extruder still has some distance to go before reaching my print bed but you can also see that my screws are loosened as much as possible\n\nshowing the horizontal extruder bar is now leveled\n\n\",0scar,\"For leveling your bed you do not require the use of a bubble level! This is not necessary, if you do, you need to place the printer on a bubble level underground. It is far easier to level the bed relative to the printer frame rather than to the outside world. Basically the bed and the X-axis (the axis that moves your nozzle) need to be parallel and each side of the X-axis needs to have the same distance to a reference point on the frame.\n\nIn order to level your X-axis you need to position both of the sides at a certain, same distance from a reference point on your frame, e.g. you could measure this with respect to the top of the Z stepper attachments. If you have 2 steppers, it is easy as you can individually move them by turning the lead screw when the stepper motors are not powered. Once you have each side at the correct distance you can commence a homing sequence and start leveling your bed.\n\nYou mention that you are running out of threads for proper leveling of the bed while the Z minimum limit switch is pressed/activated. What you need to do is lower the switch a little so that you have some extra height available. If the switch is at the lowest, you could consider drilling extra holes or filing it down, or print one of the Z-adjustment mods that can be found on the web. This should be enough to level your bed properly. Leveling can be done cold or hot, the difference is that the heat expands the plate a little or causes some changes in the shape of the bed due to the expansion or uneven heating. This difference is usually very small, but sometimes causes your prints not to stick to a hot plate when leveled cold.\n\n\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n7881,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kane,2.1782824847157594,4.1189920882906,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,I can't level my bed any more,\"I have a Monoprice Select v2 that I just bought less than 2 months ago. I've manually leveled it on several prints prior.\n\nI noticed a couple of holes in my print bed after my last print, like the extruder pushed into the sheet really hard. They're both on the same side.\n\nI then noticed that the extruder's horizontal bar wasn't leveled so I leveled it. I did this by unplugging the wire to one motor and modified the z-position so that the other connected side would go up. (Is this the proper way of adjusting the horizontal bar?)\n\nAnd then I moved the extruder back into its Home position at z-position 0.\nThat's when I noticed that it seems my extruder barely reaches my print bed even though I have the screws almost loosened to the point of detaching from the thread.\n\nThe extruder z-limit-switch (I think that's what it's called) seems to be pressed so the extruder is as far down as it can go. The controls also show that the z-position is at 0.\n\nSo I'm guessing my print bed somehow lowered. But I don't see how that could possibly be.\n\nAny ideas?\n\nHere are some photos but I'm not even sure what to show really\n\nyou can see the z-limit-switch in the right of this pic next to the letter A's\n\nyou can see my extruder still has some distance to go before reaching my print bed but you can also see that my screws are loosened as much as possible\n\nshowing the horizontal extruder bar is now leveled\n\n\",Joel Coehoorn,\"The bar where the level is attached is the support cross-bar for the X-axis travel. \n\nIt's important this bar be level, but it's even more important the bar be true to the rest of the machine. We call this \"\"leveling\"\" the printer, but really the more accurate term is \"\"tramming\"\". If the bar is level, but the machine sits on an unlevel surface, things are out of sync. This may be the case here.\n\n\n I did this by unplugging the wire to one motor and modified the z-position so that the other connected side would go up. (Is this the proper way of adjusting the horizontal bar?)\n\n\nNo. The first image in your question shows two threaded vertical rods: one on the left that is exposed, and one on the right that is more hidden (only a small portion is visible between the two \"\"A\"\" labels). These rods control travel in the vertical \"\"z\"\" direction. Each rod has an inline coupler connecting it to the Z-stepper motors. The coupler for the right side is visible just below the square label \"\"A\"\". You adjust the level of the X cross-bar by turning the couplers while the printer is turned off or the motors are otherwise disengaged. This allows you to make finer adjustments for the bar, often without needing to re-home the Z axis.\n\nYou can also use this method to correct your immediate problem.\n\nI own a Select Plus, which uses similar construction to your Select V2. When I first got the printer one of my couplers was not adequately secured to the rod. This made for all kinds of difficulty leveling the bed at first, including at one point an issue similar to what you are experiencing.\n\nRe-leveling the X cross-bar is easiest if you are first certain the printer itself is on a level surface. If this is the case, you should be able to use the level in the images to check the cross-bar in the same way you did previously, making adjustments via couplers. But check that surface first. If the surface is not level, you need to adjust the X cross-bar to be parallel to something in the machine other than the bed. While we want the bed to match the rest of the machine, the very fact you can adjust this means it's not guaranteed at any point in time, and so you should use something more structural to compare against. \n\nIn this case, you can place the same level across the two steel Y-axis travel bars below the bed, and check where the bubble sits. Then make sure the bubble ends up in exactly the same position for the X cross-bar, regardless of whether or not that's level to the ground. The greater precision you can get here, the better things will be.\n\n\n\nI'm gonna add some notes about leveling the beds on these specific printer models.\n\nThere are three basic types of leveling:\n\n\nManual. You do everything yourself.\nAssisted. You still do most things yourself, but the machine will help by moving the head quickly to certain positions for you to check. This is what many machines refer to as \"\"automatic\"\", even though it really isn't.\nAutomatic. This is where the machine does everything, using lasers to map the bed or some other contact sensor to detect when the head approaches the bed and make it's own adjustments. Often this only uses software to compensate for the bed, and so you still want to get the bed as level as possible first without this option.\n\n\nThe Select V2 and Select Plus only do #2: assisted.\n\nWhen I was starting out, my research indicated you should generally level your print beds \"\"hot\"\", because heating a print bed will expand it and potentially change the results. This makes sense to me. \n\nHowever, the instructions included with my Select Plus said nothing about heating the bed, and if followed precisely meant I leveled a cold bed. Additionally, the so-called \"\"automatic\"\" (really: \"\"assisted\"\") leveling tool in the firmware also does not keep the bed heated, meaning if you want to level it hot you must do it entirely manually. \n\nThis caused me great difficulty when first starting out getting a good level, because I was trying to do it manually on a hot bed. I finally gave up on that, and started using the assisted tool on a cold bed. To my surprise and relief — and counter to what I've read elsewhere — I've had much better results when doing it cold this way. But this may be some peculiar to these printers, perhaps involving the special mat it uses on the surface of the bed.\n\nI'm also considering this upgrade (Update: I recently installed it, but it's too soon to know if it's helping), to help improve things even further, since there is some curvature in my plate:\n\n\n https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B251KBS/\n\n\nFinally, there's an interesting seesaw effect when working on a square print bed with four adjustment knobs. I have a post about it here:\n\n\n Leveling a square 3d printer bed with four mounting posts\n\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n7975,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kane,1.726248027126092,4.70028979280315,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,How to change temperature every 25 layers (or 5 mm) in Ultimaker Cura or G-code?,\"I want to print this heat tower calibration test.\n\nThe instructions say to change the temperature every 25 layers. It also tells me to use G-Code command M104 Sxxx\n\nFirst, is there a way to specify this command using Ultimaker Cura?\n\nIf not, how do I do so in the G-code file? \n\nI see that the G-code file is just a plain text file with a command per line presumably. Do I just insert M104 S225 at one point and then M104 S220...? \nIf so, how do I know where the 25th layer is?\n\",Demis,\"Every time you see a Z movement that matches the layer height (eg. 0.20 mm) you can assume that is the end/start of one \"\"layer\"\".\nIt should have a line like:\n\n;Layer count: 17\n;LAYER:0. ; mine has this as the first layer\nM107\nG0 F2400 X67.175 Y61.730 Z0.250. ; moves to Z0.250 mm for the first layer, with layer thickness 0.25 mm\n\n\nThen later:\n\n;LAYER:1\nM106 S255\nG0 F2400 X78.078 Y69.627 Z0.550 ; 2nd layer.\n\n\nSo search for \"\"Z\"\" or \"\"Layer\"\" and once you've seen 25 of these \"\"small\"\" movements (comparing to previous Z movement?), insert your line of code at the end of the layer commands. Don't confuse it with large Z-movements, that may correspond to move up/retract filaments.\nDepending on your goals for the print, maybe you also want to insert a wait time - say a minute or two for the new temp to stabilize? Here is the line for that:\n\nG4 P200 ; Sit still doing nothing for 200 milliseconds.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7975,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kane,1.726248027126092,4.70028979280315,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,How to change temperature every 25 layers (or 5 mm) in Ultimaker Cura or G-code?,\"I want to print this heat tower calibration test.\n\nThe instructions say to change the temperature every 25 layers. It also tells me to use G-Code command M104 Sxxx\n\nFirst, is there a way to specify this command using Ultimaker Cura?\n\nIf not, how do I do so in the G-code file? \n\nI see that the G-code file is just a plain text file with a command per line presumably. Do I just insert M104 S225 at one point and then M104 S220...? \nIf so, how do I know where the 25th layer is?\n\",anaximander,\"Under the Extensions menu in Ultimaker Cura, there's an option to add post-processing scripts. One of these is called TweakAtZ, and it allows you to override certain print settings when the printer reaches a certain Z height. Multiple overrides can be specified for different heights.\n\nTweakAtZ has been bundled with the standard Ultimaker Cura download for some time, but if your version doesn't have it, you can download it from GitHub.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7982,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kane,1.0891412423578797,4.1189920882906,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,1.878685800062712,Why won't my filament feed through the extruder anymore?,\"Printer: Monoprice Select V2.\n\nI've done several prints already and swapped out filaments many times but in my most recent swap, I can't feed my PLA through any more.\n\nI first preheat my extruder for PLA temps (185 °C). Then I press the plastic thingy to allow me to push as much of the filament into the hole as possible. Then I adjust my extruder position to try to suck it in. Usually after a few mm, I start to see the filament come out of the extruder and I also feel a pull on the filament from the top. But nothing is happening now.\n\nHowever, if I adjust the extruder position in the opposite direction, it eventually pushes the filament back up and out, so I guess the \"\"stepper motor\"\" (is that what it's called?) is working (at least in one direction).\n\nI'm getting ready to open the extruder module up to see what's going on, but wanted to see if anyone had any simple ideas for me to try before I unscrew anything.\n\",BanksySan,\"Try turning the temperature up to 260 °C and pushing it through.\n\nAlso, cut of a few centimetres for I'm the end of the PLA in case the drive wheel isn't able to grab it due to a greasy bit of filament.\n\nIf you get it all working, run cleaning filament throughout it and to a cold pull with it. That removed an annoying but of grit from my Monoprice. \n\",0.0,0.0\n7982,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kane,1.0891412423578797,4.1189920882906,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,1.878685800062712,Why won't my filament feed through the extruder anymore?,\"Printer: Monoprice Select V2.\n\nI've done several prints already and swapped out filaments many times but in my most recent swap, I can't feed my PLA through any more.\n\nI first preheat my extruder for PLA temps (185 °C). Then I press the plastic thingy to allow me to push as much of the filament into the hole as possible. Then I adjust my extruder position to try to suck it in. Usually after a few mm, I start to see the filament come out of the extruder and I also feel a pull on the filament from the top. But nothing is happening now.\n\nHowever, if I adjust the extruder position in the opposite direction, it eventually pushes the filament back up and out, so I guess the \"\"stepper motor\"\" (is that what it's called?) is working (at least in one direction).\n\nI'm getting ready to open the extruder module up to see what's going on, but wanted to see if anyone had any simple ideas for me to try before I unscrew anything.\n\",kane,\"I figured out the issue. I think I was shoving it in the wrong hole.\n\nI took apart my extruder component. There's a good video on it here.\nBut basically, you just have to loosen the two bottom screws on the side fan like this:\n\n\nI checked everything out first. I cleaned the extruder head with the included pin. I also shoved the filament through the heated area and filament came out ok.\n\n\nBut then I discovered the filament could go in the wrong way sometimes through the extruder.\n\nThis is the correct way for the filament to go through. It should come out of that plastic hole.\n\n\nBut once in awhile, I accidentally pushed the filament through this way.\n\n\nIf the filament was bent and I pushed the lever too hard, it would often find its way down the wrong path.\nSo I played around with how much force I should be holding down the lever and how hard I should be pushing the filament through.\n\nI don't know if other 3D printer extruder feeders are designed this way, but seems error prone. Or maybe it's just me.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n8033,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kane,1.726248027126092,2.846247604045449,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Adhesion problem when printing calibration test,\"Here is my first attempt at printing a \"\"Bed Leveling Calibration test\"\".\n\n\n\nIt obviously didn't come out as I would have hoped, but what can you say just looking at this picture?\n\nIs it possible to tell from this calibration print which corners are not leveled? Or is this just a general lack of stickiness issue (e.g. i need glue)?\n\nI leveled this thing with paper several times, but honestly, I'm terrible at leveling. I just got this new piece of glass and there's nothing on it. The glue residue is actually on the sheet beneath.\n\nWhat are some tips for printing on glass? I hear some people say use glue, others say never use glue. Should I increase or lower the temp?\n\nI'm printing Dikale PLA on Monoprice Select V2, extruder temp 200 °C and bed temp 70 °C. Initial layer speed is 30 mm/s (print speed is 60 mm/s but I don't think this print goes that far).\n\",0scar,\"\n What can you say just looking at this picture?\n\n\n->There are 2 obvious observations that can be drawn from your image.\n\nFirst, the bed does not seem to be levelled correctly, the right side (especially the front right corner) is closer to the nozzle than the left and left-back side.\n\n\n Is it possible to tell from this calibration print which corners are\n not leveled?\n\n\n-> Yes, the front right corner is higher. The filament is much thinner there, it is more transparent than the rest of the lines.\n\nSecond, you have glass mounted onto an adhesion sheet similar to BuildTak. Note that such adhesion sheets are rough (to create more surface area for the filament to grip on), placing a sheet of glass on top of such a sheet will create small air pockets (less contact surface area to the glass plate as that is perfectly flat by its production process) and thus an unsatisfactory heat transfer process. Glass directly onto the Aluminium will have a higher temperature than with an insulator (BuildTak sheet) in between it, it is far more difficult to determine the bed temperature that way. For printing on glass, you could also raise the temperature compared to direct printing onto the metal bed.\n\n\n Should I increase or lower the temp?\n\n\n-> When using glass on top of the heated bed, you should raise the temperature a few degrees.\n\nYou should remove the BuildTak sheet and put the glass directly onto the Aluminium heat bed or remove the glass plate and print on the BuildTak sheet directly, level the bed better or consider installing an auto-level (touch) sensor if your printer electronics board supports that. \n\n\n What are some tips for printing on glass?\n\n\nFurthermore, use some PVA based spray (e.g. certain hairspray brands or specific print adhesion spray) or Polyvinylpyrrolidone based glues (certain glue sticks, white wood glue, etc.) to create a sticky surface for the filament to adhere to. I have great experience with PVA based sprays like 3DLAC, but there are great alternatives found in common household hairspray cans as well, as long as it contains PVA.\n\n\n Or is this just a general lack of stickiness issue (e.g. i need glue)?\n\n\n-> Yes, Polyvinylpyrrolidone/PVA based glue/spray will result in better adhesion.\n\n\nA general remark is that you could listen at what others have tried, but you need to find out yourself what works best for you. In order to get the print to stick to the glass, you should use every trick there is to get good adhesion. If PVA based sprays or Polyvinylpyrrolidone based glues work for you, use it, if not, print on bare glass, use tape, BuilTak, elevate bed temperature, overextrude first layer, use brims/mouse ears, etc.. \n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7597,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SigmaSoldier,1.0891412423578797,3.247326609336232,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Filament gets coiled inside the extruder,\"A while ago bought a Bowden extruder to replace the old built-in one (It was malfunctioning or something that I cannot remember well). This one in particular has been acquired:\n\n\n\nThe thing is, that almost a year has passed since the printer did something rather than getting jammed and not work properly. The extruder itself seems to work properly, when I heats up and push the filament by hand seems to pass properly.\n\nWhen assembled and start to print, the printer at first seems to work, but after a minute or so, it stops extruding (gets jammed or something).\n\nThe last time that I removed the filament and I've found out that it was coiled inside (Very strange):\n\n\n\nMy first thought was that the filament was thinner than the extruder's specs, but the seller says that is for 1.75mm, and all my filaments have that diameter.\n\nWhat I am missing? Something maybe that is not properly mounted?\n\nThe product is not official, bought on Amazon (I didn't know about e3d v6).\n\nPrinting temperature should be 180ºC but I've seen now that Cura sets the first layers to print at 200ºC. Material: PLA\n\nMy printer is a BQ Prusa i3 Hephestos.\n\",Valmond,\"As long as there is no more information about the printer itself (I searched a bit and around half of buyers were severely unhappy with the result), I'd advise you to make a full check of all of the important parts that make up a 3D printer making ok prints:\n\n\nAre motors moving as they should?\nIs the extruder actually extrude filament when told so (do the check \"\"2cm\"\" = 2cm extruded)?\nIs the Z calibration ok (<- VERY important, will make tons of weird problems if extruder is too close to the bed, believe me, don't skip out on this one. A blue tape or not a blue tape makes a world of difference).\n\n\nAlso of course check your filament (no variations too big of the diameter).\n\nFor the temperature, IMO go for the higher for starters (maybe no, see \"\"heat creep\"\" below), you won't be able to bridge / less good quality etc. but you'll get pieces done.\n\nNOW, the image you posted shows a twisted (I don't know how to handle that) or a grinded filament.\n\nWhen I say 'grinded' I mean that the filament got stuck somewhere (see below) and the (cogged) wheel pushing the filament is so strong that is grinds off plastic from it, forming waves on the filament. Eating away parts so it looks like your photo.\n\nIf that's the case, then you should check out \"\"heat creep\"\", it's basically the heat in the lowest part of the extruder (the thing you call a bowden extruder) will heat up the filament and make it melt Above the heat block, making a blob of half melt plastic stopping the forward movement of the filament.\nThis is usually mitigated by two things, that lacks more or less in cheap chinese knock offs:\n* The fan and it's cooling efficiency (the fan must blow when the heat block is hot, even if there is no printing going on. Even if the heat block is no longer heating. I shut the fan off at around 60°C).\n* The Heat break: if it's heavy it will conduct too much heat, if it's thin it might work but will break easily.\n\n3D Printing is not obvious or easy, but spend some time and it'll start to work well!\n\nCheers\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n7602,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,hunterp,0.0,4.093547600725888,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Ender 3 Nozzle does not clear bed,\"I have a thicker glass plate on the bed. Also, I have a z-axis offset at the maximum value 50 yet the nozzle does not clear the plate. \n\nWhy can't I adjust the axis beyond 50? \n\",Trish,\"There are several ways to get the Z0 into a position the sotware can account for it without needing to write your own firmware if needed:\n\n\nRemove the build-tak-clone under your glass sheet to get the better heat transfer and remove a couple millimeters.\nTighten the bed leveling to account for some millimeters.\nMove the physical endstop to account for the thicker build platform.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n7823,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,hunterp,1.726248027126092,3.410670154036563,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Basic Spinning Top Prints Fail in Same Location,\"My attempted prints on my Creative Ender3 of model:\n\nhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23686\n\nThe print uses support structures (generated by Ultimaker Cura) failed in the same location twice. It is printed in PLA (1.75 mm) first print at 200 °C, second print at 196 °C.\n\n\n\n\",Trish,\"To me, it looks like your G-code induces an incomplete layer of support on the still standing piece, which later down leads to the print failing.\n\nRe-slice the whole thing.\n\nAs a matter of fact, I would cut the model in its widest place and print both with the large face flat on the surface and glue the two pieces together after printing. That way I can achieve:\n\n\nno need for support material\nmaximum adhesion\nno surface problems on the transition from the support to the print\n\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n7842,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,hunterp,2.1782824847157594,5.1089375263980505,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.1827783713261073,-1.0718911890698015,\"Why is Print Adhesion almost good, but still not right?\",\"It feels like my print is almost there, I spent a long time fine tuning the calibration with a fantastic set of G-code files from Chuck Hellebuyck.\n\nI am using an Ender 3, on which I have modified the heatbed to carry a glass sheet, otherwise factory standard. The prints are done on the bare glass. When I printed a window some 14 feet (~4.5 meters) away was open to the cold New York winter. The cooling fan on the Ender 3 is mounted on the right side of the hotend and uses a simple declector, it can be seen in picture 2.\n\nHowever, my print is not perfect yet. I'm using 1.75  mm PLA at a temperature of 200 °C for the 0.4 mm nozzle and a bed temperature of 60 °C. Out of the 4 corners, 3 printed perfectly, the back-left one did lift.\n\nWhat do I need to do to fix the bed adhesion issue?\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\",Trish,\"This is a standard adhesion problem with glass beds:\n\nGlass beds are super level, but they transfer heat less good than metal and BuildTak. This also means that not every spot always has the exact same temperature, which can come from a lot of things, for example, a draft from the open window jitting that corner and causing lifting.\n\nThere are some super easy and cheap solutions:\n\n\nPainters Tape adds a little bite to the surface\na thin PVA (Gluestick, wood glue, hairspray, or specifically designed sprays for 3D printing) bonds the first layers much better to the glass\nfor ABS, ABS-in-acetone-slurry is a known bed adhesive\nmeasure the top of the bed temperature - you will find out that the increased thermal capacity of the bed+glass sheet means that your set bed temperature is not reached on the bed surface. Adjust as needed!\nprevent any and all draft (close windows and doors)\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n7842,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,hunterp,2.1782824847157594,5.1089375263980505,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.1827783713261073,-1.0718911890698015,\"Why is Print Adhesion almost good, but still not right?\",\"It feels like my print is almost there, I spent a long time fine tuning the calibration with a fantastic set of G-code files from Chuck Hellebuyck.\n\nI am using an Ender 3, on which I have modified the heatbed to carry a glass sheet, otherwise factory standard. The prints are done on the bare glass. When I printed a window some 14 feet (~4.5 meters) away was open to the cold New York winter. The cooling fan on the Ender 3 is mounted on the right side of the hotend and uses a simple declector, it can be seen in picture 2.\n\nHowever, my print is not perfect yet. I'm using 1.75  mm PLA at a temperature of 200 °C for the 0.4 mm nozzle and a bed temperature of 60 °C. Out of the 4 corners, 3 printed perfectly, the back-left one did lift.\n\nWhat do I need to do to fix the bed adhesion issue?\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\",Alex Bruski,\"I work with a glass surface on my machine and use a drop of superglue to attach the \ncorners after the first layer is complete. The biggest contributors to not sticking are :\n\n\nBed not level.\nTemperature of filament not hot enough.\nFirst layer print speed is too fast.\nHeated Bed not hot enough to compensate for cold room. Try enclosing print area.\nHead is snagging on print edges (no retraction when moving) and ripping print loose.\nPrint bed surface is not clean. Use acetone or ammonia for cleaning glass. Alcohol leaves an oily residue.\n\n\nIf you are printing on painters tape, make sure the bed is very clean when you put the tape \ndown. Then make sure you rub the tape down well so it doesn't pull off of the print bed \nsurface during printing. Then clean the tape surface to get the oil from your hands off of \nthe tape. \n\nI use Glass Build Plate Wizard spray for delicate prints and a heated bed. It releases after the print plate cools down. That eliminates the need to chip the print loose. It releases itself after a few minutes.\n\",-2.353748300761693,0.0\n7603,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,spikespaz,2.1782824847157594,4.433748719866763,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Messy top layer with PETG filament?,\"I'm having issues getting PETG to print nicely. I have encountered pretty much every issue because when I fix one thing another issue pops up. I see people saying that you should \"\"just copy your PLA settings\"\", but that definitely did not work for me, with issues from bed adhesion, stringing, globbing, and especially issues with the top layers. At the moment I am getting very decent quality prints from PETG, however the one issue that remains is the top of the print.\n\nInfill looks fine, it is printing fast, so that is where I would expect the filament to glob to the extruder. But that happens on the very first top layer. The printer goes over the honeycomb, and the filament gets oozy and starts forming in globs on the edge of each inner wall. This takes a few layers to print over, and even after 5 layers at 0.25mm layer height it has holes.\n\n\n\nSoftware: I am using Slic3r PE 1.41.2, on Repetier Host 2.1.3.\n\nPrinter: Wanhao DI3 or Monoprice Maker Select Plus.\n\nFilament: Amazon Basics branded Navy Blue PETG.\n\nSettings:\n\n\n40mm/s print speed,\n0.2mm layer height,\n70 °C heat bed,\n235 °C hot end,\n15% honeycomb infill,\n20% - 50% automatic fan speed.\n\n\nI would like to solve this without increasing infill percentage because the parts are already quite dense with 15% honeycomb and I don't want to waste material and time.\n\",0scar,\"Five top layers should normally be more than enough to create a seamless top layer.\n\nIndeed, PETG prints a little differently than PLA. It requires a higher hot end temperature, less part cooling (to improve sticking to previous layers), a higher build plate temperature and usually care in choosing the right initial layer height. Once the printer needs to create the top surface layers, too much temperature, too less cooling and too low of an infill percentage can cause the top bridging over the infill to fail. Your settings seem to be fine except for the low percentage of infill, 15% is very low.\n\nOther possible causes could be under-extrusion and too fast printing, but in this case the low infill percentage is probably the main reason. To get a better top layer you could first try to increase the infill percentage. If you go to 20 or 30 % infill, you would only marginally \"\"waste\"\" filament. More filament and time is wasted when whole prints fail as of a bad top layer.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7609,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,STW,1.726248027126092,3.6912794068058914,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,\"\"\"Missing\"\" rows on 64x128 LCD after flashing Marlin 1.1.9 onto Monoprice Maker Select v2\",\"I've successfully flashed Marlin 1.1.9 onto a Melzi v3.5 board (the stock board for my Monoprice Maker Select v2 (v2.1?, a white-labelled Wanhao i3 Duplicator).\n\nInitially after the flash succeeded the LCD displayed was \"\"garbled\"\". The right side, in particular, had lots of pixels out of place. I was able to resolve this by experimenting with some delay variables. Prior to the flash the LCD was 100 % working; to my knowledge no damage happened while I had the machine apart.\n\nHere's my changes to Configuration.h from Marlin 1.1.9, excluding anything to do with X/Y/Z/E, etc (irrelevant stuff). \n\n#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_MELZI\n#define SDSUPPORT\n#define REVERSE_ENCODER_DIRECTION\n\n//\n// LCD for Melzi Card with Graphical LCD\n//\n#define LCD_FOR_MELZI\n\n// Increase delays to fix garbled LCD\n#define ST7920_DELAY_1 DELAY_NS(0)\n#define ST7920_DELAY_2 DELAY_NS(100)\n#define ST7920_DELAY_3 DELAY_NS(200)\n\n\nThe display is much better, however there are about 4x rows of pixels through center of the display running left to right that mostly don't display. There are little sections--perhaps 20x pixels (maybe 3%) that do appear to be displaying.\n\nHere's a photo of the problem:\n\n\nAre there any other typical culprits? Based on what I've read it sounds like this is a recent(ish) issue with Marlin, and perhaps would be solved with an older version or a different firmware.\n\nHere's a photo, if you look closely you can see the 'dead' rows, with about 6x pixels work\n\nPS. While troubleshooting I added shielding to the LCD's ribbon cable (foil wrapping the cable, grounded, and wrapped with electrical tape). It didn't help, but I left it on.\n\",Sal Gonzalez,\"Possibly unrelated to the firmware? This happened to me when I tightened the mount screws on the LCD, after I backed them off a bit it was fine.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n7634,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,STW,2.528907649931287,4.658443473845292,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How do I calibrate the temperature of my hotend?,\"I'm using a Monoprice Maker Select v2 (a Monoprice-branded Wanhao i3 duplicator) and would like to calibrate temperature readings for my hotend.\n\nI used a thermal probe on my multimeter to determine the hotend is running about 5 degrees C above it's reported temperature (setting it to 200 degrees reads 205 on the multimeter). I measured this by placing the thermal problem partly into the hole where the printers thermistor resides.\n\nI use Marlin 1.9 for firmware and ideally would calibrate it there--I'd prefer the readouts to be accurate rather than relying on offsets to compensate. What's the process for recalibrating the hotend temperature readings?\n\",Trish,\"Temperature from thermosensors gets collected as a resistance value that changes with temperature. The chip in your board decides the temperature from this value based on a temperature-resistance table.\n\nIf you are using Marlin Firmware, the setting which table is referenced by your machine to get its values is written under the header Thermal Settings inside Confinguration.h.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7634,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,STW,2.528907649931287,4.658443473845292,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How do I calibrate the temperature of my hotend?,\"I'm using a Monoprice Maker Select v2 (a Monoprice-branded Wanhao i3 duplicator) and would like to calibrate temperature readings for my hotend.\n\nI used a thermal probe on my multimeter to determine the hotend is running about 5 degrees C above it's reported temperature (setting it to 200 degrees reads 205 on the multimeter). I measured this by placing the thermal problem partly into the hole where the printers thermistor resides.\n\nI use Marlin 1.9 for firmware and ideally would calibrate it there--I'd prefer the readouts to be accurate rather than relying on offsets to compensate. What's the process for recalibrating the hotend temperature readings?\n\",0scar,\"Unless you are using a calibrated temperature sensor, it is a question what the temperature will be. \n\nActually it doesn't really matter what the temperature exactly is, you just need to find the sweet spot for your filaments on your machine. With respect to reported temperatures by others, your settings may differ a little, but that does not matter. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7647,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,STW,2.1782824847157594,4.545078200030463,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,My first attempt at pausing a print and changing filaments resumed from the wrong position -- how do I troubleshoot?,\"I'm attemping my first print where I pause the print, change the filament, and resume to achieve a two-color print. My first attempt failed when the printer resumed printing over a centimeter away from where it should have on the X axis. My second attempt was much better, but still resumed about 1.5mm off-target.\n\nHere's specifically what I did:\n\n\nLoaded the STL in Cura, the design has a 1mm \"\"base\"\" with an additional 1mm design on top of the base.\nI used Cura's \"\"Pause at Height\"\" feature to specify the printer should pause after completing the first 1mm.\nI sent the print to Octoprint, via the Cura plugin.\nThe pause began and went as-expected for the first 1mm. It paused after finishing the layer, as expected.\nTo switch filament I used the controls to raise the nozzle by 1cm, then moved it to home (X/Y, away from the print). I swapped filaments, hand-feeding the 2nd color until the old color was no longer coming out the nozzle, then gently cleaned up the nozzle.\nI lowered the nozzle back to the height it paused at (down 1cm), then resumed the print. The printer moved the X/Y back to the print and resumed.\n\n\nI'm guessing either I shouldn't move the printer head away from the print when changing filament, or perhaps need to re-home after the new filament is in.\n\nWhat should I do to resume a print precisely where it paused? Is there a better approach?\n\",Trish,\"You are out of luck:\n\nPrint gcode is written in relative coordinates. If you move the printhead manually, the printer does not know this, and will just follow its relative path from the new position - which is what commonly is called layer-shifting.\n\nTo try to mitigate this, there are ways, but they are a little tricky:\n\n\nIf your printer has a change filament option, then choose that - this saves the absolute position of the printhead before moving it to X0Y0, then usually extracts the filament and waits for the new filament to be inserted and the printer waits till given a resume-OK. Then it will move to the saves absolute position, and resume the code from the point it paused.\nIf your printer has a pause option that moves the printhead to X0Y0, this can be used, using a manual extraction. Resuming the print will be easy.\nSome slicers support to call \"\"Change filament at layer X\"\", which will call a move to X0Y0 and pause, allowing manual change even if the normal pause behavior is not to move to X0Y0.\n\n\nAs you see: NO manual commands are given here! You can not move the printhead up/down/sideways without having a good chance of inducing a layer shift.\n\nThe Pause behavior can be adjusted in the firmware.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7647,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,STW,2.1782824847157594,4.545078200030463,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,My first attempt at pausing a print and changing filaments resumed from the wrong position -- how do I troubleshoot?,\"I'm attemping my first print where I pause the print, change the filament, and resume to achieve a two-color print. My first attempt failed when the printer resumed printing over a centimeter away from where it should have on the X axis. My second attempt was much better, but still resumed about 1.5mm off-target.\n\nHere's specifically what I did:\n\n\nLoaded the STL in Cura, the design has a 1mm \"\"base\"\" with an additional 1mm design on top of the base.\nI used Cura's \"\"Pause at Height\"\" feature to specify the printer should pause after completing the first 1mm.\nI sent the print to Octoprint, via the Cura plugin.\nThe pause began and went as-expected for the first 1mm. It paused after finishing the layer, as expected.\nTo switch filament I used the controls to raise the nozzle by 1cm, then moved it to home (X/Y, away from the print). I swapped filaments, hand-feeding the 2nd color until the old color was no longer coming out the nozzle, then gently cleaned up the nozzle.\nI lowered the nozzle back to the height it paused at (down 1cm), then resumed the print. The printer moved the X/Y back to the print and resumed.\n\n\nI'm guessing either I shouldn't move the printer head away from the print when changing filament, or perhaps need to re-home after the new filament is in.\n\nWhat should I do to resume a print precisely where it paused? Is there a better approach?\n\",Mohammad Athar,\"You may have moved the nozzle in the X or Y direction a bit. Instead of resuming right away (that is, after step 5), send it to the X/Y home.\n\nAdditionally, if you have a removable build plate like in Prusas, you can remove the print, send the model to the X/Y/Z home, raise the nozzle very high, then replace the print\n\",0.0,0.0\n7612,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,LX V,-1.0891412423578797,3.6594421369459247,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Is it possible to use Three.js to determine the wall thickness of an STL file?,\"I am using a node app that displays stls online & analyzes them. Is it possible to determine the minimum wall thickness of the stl just like 3D Hubs print analyzer does?\n\",0scar,\"An STL file is a surface model file. From Wikipedia you can read that:\n\n\n STL files describe only the surface geometry of a three-dimensional\n object without any representation of color, texture or other common\n CAD model attributes.\n\n\nThis implies that there is no such thing as a wall thickness, as such you will not be able to determine the wall thickness (it is infinitesimally small). You might be interested in part thickness at a certain position; part thickness and wall thickness for 3D printing are determined when the STL model is sliced into sliced for creating 3D printer code.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n7618,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Alexander Austin,1.726248027126092,4.394816258951926,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Wanhao Duplicator i3 plus temperature out of control,\"I have a reasonably new Wanhao Duplicator i3 plus that has been printing happily for a few weeks.\n\nThis morning it has developed a new error. When you hit pre-heat for PLA (target temperature 200 °C) it heats the extruder but never stops. It is like the extruder heater is permanently on. The set point doesn't make any difference. If you hit cooldown it still keeps heating up! \n\nAt 240 °C I turned the machine off for fear of what happens next.\n\nIt seems only to affect the extruder heater not the bed heater. That seems to be working and following the set point.\n\nAny ideas what this is and how to fix it?\n\",0scar,\"Thermal Runaway?!\n\nThe temperature should not go over the MAXTEMP variable set in the firmware, so permanent damage is probably avoided (when temperature doesn't exceed about 250 °C; that is about the max temperature for the PTFE liners in the hotend). In the factory setup, the Wanhao Duplicator i3 is running an instance of Marlin Firmware. In the configuration.h file the MAXTEMP is defined like:\n\n#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 275\n\n\nfor the first extruder where 275 °C is the default value, if Wanhao has changed this to a lower value (as they list their printer to print to max 240 °C) is not known. \n\nFixing the issue at hand\n\nTo expand on your question: \n\n\n \"\"Any ideas what this is and how to fix it?\"\"\n\n\nIn order for you to fix the problem you need to do some troubleshooting. You need to find out if this problem persists when not using the pre-heat function of the firmware. E.g. When you do not pre-heat, but print a PLA object, does the temperature also keeps rising? Furthermore, try to hook up a computer/laptop over USB to the printer board and try pre-heating from a software application like OctoPrint, Repetier-Host, PronterFace, etc.\n\nFrom the description alone, it appears as though the gain of the onboard MOSFET is opened once requested to preheat, but never closed. This could hint to a faulty MOSFET. If you are handy with software compiling for Arduino based microchips (please do note that this requires some thorough insight in compiling software for the Arduino platform), you could alter the printer configuration (not only hardware, by connecting the hotend heater and thermistor cables to the bed terminals, but also software, by switching pins in the board configuration file) to use the bed terminals to heat up the hotend (and not use the heated bed during the test, disconnect the cables of the bed), but that will most probably show that the hotend will stop at the requested temperature as the thermistor does not seem to be broken.\n\nSimple tests that you could perform to check the functioning of the hotend/setup are:\n\n\nDisconnecting the thermistor leadsThis will effectively result in a 0 Volt reading, this is to test the MINTEMP temperature limit of your setup.\nShorting the thermistor leadsThis will effectively result in a full 5 Volts signal resulting in the maximum temperature reading. This exceeds the MAXTEMP temperature by far, as such it should halt heating up the heating element once shortened. You can do this even without heating up or before it reaches 240 °C.\nDisconnect the Heater cartridge orTake the heater cartridge out of the aluminium heater blockThis will effectively test the \"\"Thermal Runaway Protection\"\" (or short TRP) of your setup. If the thermistor does not register a temperature rise after a certain amount of seconds (in advanced configuration), the printer should detect there is something wrong and shut down/halt the printer. Disconnecting the heater cartridge is the safer way. Common TRP times are 120 seconds and less.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7624,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Frank Quek,2.528907649931287,4.253140339767968,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.488653845767225,Can leaving the nozzle at 160 °C continuously on in between prints affect the viscosity of the prints?,\"We're printing on a WASP 3MT pellet extruder with PLA. To save time, we're leaving the hotend at 160 °C between prints but realized that the print quality varies, from one print to the another, when using the same G-code file. \n\nCould it be that leaving the temperature at 160 °C constantly creates more fluid PLA and therefore affects the following print?\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"I leave the extruder working at 190°C between printings up to for 20 minutes while I made the change; this only provoques that the nozzle gets empty; nothing gets burned or clogged. Once to start againg just feed a little more of filament manualy or waits to the skirt do the cleaning and refilling the nozzle. \n\nNormally at this temperature (190°C) the nozzle gets empty in the next 2 minutes due normal melting flow. I can assure that your printings will be like water drops.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7624,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Frank Quek,2.528907649931287,4.253140339767968,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.488653845767225,Can leaving the nozzle at 160 °C continuously on in between prints affect the viscosity of the prints?,\"We're printing on a WASP 3MT pellet extruder with PLA. To save time, we're leaving the hotend at 160 °C between prints but realized that the print quality varies, from one print to the another, when using the same G-code file. \n\nCould it be that leaving the temperature at 160 °C constantly creates more fluid PLA and therefore affects the following print?\n\",Trish,\"PLA starts to change its properties at above its glass transition temperature of 60-65 °C, if stored there too long. Keeping it at 160°C, close to the melting temperature (173-178 °C) can degrade the material relatively rapidly. During an extrusion, this is usually mitigated by filling fresh material into the melt while the older material gets extruded, but keeping the machine stagnant at the high temperature has not only creep the heat up from the designated melt zone (thus preheating material that should not be preheated yet) but also can damage the material deep in the melt zone. Together with this possible material degradation, the preheated material melts faster and might overshoot the aimed at print temperature until the normal temperature is reached again. Both effects can lead to reduced print quality in the lower layers.\n\nThe time saving from keeping the filament heated up for an extended period of time is, in my opinion, not worth the quality reduction that can come from using non-uniform material. You pay more in lost prints than you save in time for heating up the head.\n\nIf it is impossible to not keep the hotend heated between prints, it might be advisable try these:\n\n\nStarting every print with a larger purging operation might get rid of degraded material. It would be as simple as extruding some quantity of material before starting the actual print at the edge of the build plate.\nAside from purging, it might be a good idea to reduce the hold temperature from 160 °C to a lower temperature, allowing the melt to partly solidify and keep the heat creep in check.\n\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n7665,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Andrew Marsden,1.0891412423578797,4.030217835765849,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Correct wiring Arduino Uno and GT2560 to install bootloader,\"Can anyone help me with the correct wiring between an Arduino Uno and a GT2560 board to install the bootloader using the Arduinio as the ISP.\n\nI'm trying to follow this video\n\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2N1zgX8Gv54\n\nBut crucially the wiring diagram provided shows 5 connections, but the video shows 6 and they're obscured so it's not clear what was done.\n\nAt present I'm getting the following error\n\navrdude: Device signature = 0x000000\n\nWould appreciate any help offered.\n\nUpdate.\n\nBased on advice received, here is my wiring - I'm still getting the same error. I've checked this several times so apologies if I can't follow basic instructions!\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe full error log is as follows:\n\nArduino: 1.6.8 (Linux), Board: \"\"Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)\"\"\n\n/home/andy/Desktop/arduino-1.6.8/hardware/tools/avr/bin/avrdude -C/home/andy/Desktop/arduino-1.6.8/hardware/tools/avr/etc/avrdude.conf -v -patmega2560 -cstk500v1 -P/dev/ttyACM0 -b19200 >-e -Ulock:w:0x3F:m -Uefuse:w:0xFD:m -Uhfuse:w:0xD8:m -Ulfuse:w:0xFF:m \n\navrdude: Version 6.0.1, compiled on Apr 14 2015 at 19:04:16\n Copyright (c) 2000-2005 Brian Dean, http://www.bdmicro.com/\n Copyright (c) 2007-2009 Joerg Wunsch\n\n System wide configuration file is \"\"/home/andy/Desktop/arduino-1.6.8/hardware/tools/avr/etc/>avrdude.conf\"\"\n User configuration file is \"\"/home/andy/.avrduderc\"\"\n User configuration file does not exist or is not a regular file, skipping\n\n Using Port : /dev/ttyACM0\n Using Programmer : stk500v1\n Overriding Baud Rate : 19200\n AVR Part : ATmega2560\n Chip Erase delay : 9000 us\n PAGEL : PD7\n BS2 : PA0\n RESET disposition : dedicated\n RETRY pulse : SCK\n serial program mode : yes\n parallel program mode : yes\n Timeout : 200\n StabDelay : 100\n CmdexeDelay : 25\n SyncLoops : 32\n ByteDelay : 0\n PollIndex : 3\n PollValue : 0x53\n Memory Detail :\n\n Block Poll Page Polled\n Memory Type Mode Delay Size Indx Paged Size Size #Pages MinW MaxW ReadBack\n ----------- ---- ----- ----- ---- ------ ------ ---- ------ ----- ----- ---------\n eeprom 65 10 8 0 no 4096 8 0 9000 9000 0x00 0x00\n flash 65 10 256 0 yes 262144 256 1024 4500 4500 0x00 0x00\n lfuse 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 9000 9000 0x00 0x00\n hfuse 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 9000 9000 0x00 0x00\n efuse 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 9000 9000 0x00 0x00\n lock 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 9000 9000 0x00 0x00\n calibration 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 0 0 0x00 0x00\n signature 0 0 0 0 no 3 0 0 0 0 0x00 0x00\n\n Programmer Type : STK500\n Description : Atmel STK500 Version 1.x firmware\n Hardware Version: 2\n Firmware Version: 1.18\n Topcard : Unknown\n Vtarget : 0.0 V\n Varef : 0.0 V\n Oscillator : Off\n SCK period : 0.1 us\n\navrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions\n\nReading | ################################################## | 100% 0.02s\n\navrdude: Device signature = 0x000000 (retrying)\n\nReading | ################################################## | 100% 0.02s\n\navrdude: Device signature = 0x000000 (retrying)\n\nError while burning bootloader.\nReading | ################################################## | 100% 0.02s\n\navrdude: Device signature = 0x000000\navrdude: Yikes! Invalid device signature.\n Double check connections and try again, or use -F to override\n this check.\n\n\navrdude done. Thank you.\n\nThis report would have more information with\n\"\"Show verbose output during compilation\"\"\noption enabled in File -> Preferences.\n\n\",Trish,\"The video shows 6 in the wiring diagram, but missing one line between 1 and 5V. You can see all the pins used at this moment and a little better in this moment. The first is always the connector, the second the Arduino Uno side:\n\n\n1 to 5V\n2 to Ground (GND)\n3 to 10\n5 to 11\n10 to 12\n9 to 13\n\n\nNote that the revision 3e of the genuine Arduino Uno demands to connect to different pin hoes on the left than the model in the video, let the labeling guide you! Instead of 2nd (5V) and 6th (GND) pin-hole on the left side, you'd use the 5th (5V) and 6th or 7th (GND) on the left (counting from the power connection side) or the GND pin on the right, next to digital output 13.\n\nAccording to the Arduino Forum, you might also need a Capacity between Reset and GND on the Arduino Uno.\n\nEDIT: According to Geeetech we need a different Pinning:\n\n\n\n\nLCD 1 to 5V\nLCD 2 to GND\nSD 2 to GND\nSD 3 to 10 (RESET)\nSD 5 to 11 (MOSI)\nSD 10 to 12 (MISO)\nSD 9 to 13 (SCK)\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7721,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Andrew Marsden,1.0891412423578797,3.304391138419485,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Prusa i3 pro W - not extruding,\"I'm trying to do my first ever print with my Geeetech prusa i3 pro.\n\nWhen I try to print that printer seems to work, x,y,z axis all moving ok.\n\nWhat isn't working is that little to no plastic is being extruded. \n\nThe nozzle appears to be getting to temperature, and some plastic comes out whilst it's heating, but then when it starts to move and print, no plastic comes out.\n\nMy thoughts are:\n\n\nHave I not loaded the plastic properly\nIs the extruder engine not working i.e. not pulling the plastic through\n\n\nAny hints on what I can try would be appreciated.\n\",Andrew Marsden,\"Problem identified. \n\nI took of the fan and heat sink so I could see what was going on in the mechanism that should pull through the filament.\n\nUsing repetier-host software I tried to manually drive the motor - nothing happening.\n\nI swapped the A4988 stepper motor driver for the extruder with another (and my x,y,z axis motors work) to see what would happen - and it worked!\n\nSo just a faulty A4988 on the extruder motor.\n\nI also manually pushed filament through the hot end to ensure there was no blockage and it worked fine.\n\nSo hopefully GEEETECH can send me a replacement and I'm good to go!\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7630,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,sergiol,2.1782824847157594,2.8245194970758165,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Bicycle air pump project,\"Is a home 3D printer capable of printing a good bicycle air pump?\n\nI've searched the Internet and there is very limited info on it. Things need to be rigid and very minutious in the valve part of the pump. I could give an example of what I thought in the image \n\",Trish,\"depends\n\nYou certainly can print parts of a bicycle pump, for example, the outer case and maybe the inner piston, maybe even the housing for the connection valves.\n\nHowever, you cant print the buffer spring or the valves itself. You will have trouble printing the adapters. And you will have to print in ABS to smooth the inside of your pump with acetone vapor, so you have a smooth surface that forms an air seal under operation.\n\nIt would be cheaper and more durable to just print just the fittings and use a PVC Pipe as the cylinder itself.\n\nAs in all things, if this is a good pump depends a lot on design and your machine.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7630,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,sergiol,2.1782824847157594,2.8245194970758165,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Bicycle air pump project,\"Is a home 3D printer capable of printing a good bicycle air pump?\n\nI've searched the Internet and there is very limited info on it. Things need to be rigid and very minutious in the valve part of the pump. I could give an example of what I thought in the image \n\",0scar,\"It should be possible to print such a product. You should be printing this in a tough material at a fine layer resolution and probably need to machine the inside of the cylinder or use grease and use a rubber valve. \n\",0.0,0.0\n7642,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BanksySan,1.726248027126092,4.096995355543717,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How to align sketch with the x-axis,\"I have this sketch which I have accidantly rotated by some arbitary angle.\n\nI need the dotted line to be parallel with the x-axis and the small, left hand side to be flush with the y-axis.\n\nI've tried using the Align function, but can't seem to get htat to work.\n\nIve tried rotating the sketch, but I can't see a way to measure the angle it's off by in order to specify how far to rotate it.\n\nI'm very new to Fusion 360, and CAD in general so it's probably something really simple.\n\n\n\",Trish,\"It's rather simple:\n\n\nStart to edit the sketch with this line via a right-click edit sketch\nclick the line you want to force horizontal\non the right menu, the lower menu has \"\"align horitontal/vertical\"\", click it\nDONE\n\n\nTo find the button I mean, a picture with the right tool next to the red mark:\n\n\n\nHint: in the case of your item, I suggest to use the blue marked symmetry on the two lines you forced to be equal:\n\n\nfirst choose the lines (SHIFT)\nchoose the tool\nclick the symmetry line (in your case: the construction line)\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n7651,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BanksySan,1.0891412423578797,4.265349585185877,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,How to attach a metal bearing to a print,\"I have a bunch of ball bearings (608 2RS) that I'm planning on using in a project with printed parts. But I'm not sure how to attach and secure them properly. \n\nHow is this done usually?\n\",Trish,\"Ball bearings are usually fitted in one style, no matter what is the material that they are embedded in: press fit.\n\nPress fit\n\nTo get a good press fit, the part will have to have a hole that is the diameter of the bearing (22 mm) plus a little margin that depends on your printer and filament. From my own experience, a design with 22.1 mm to 22.4 mm diameter resulted in a near-enough 22mm hole that gave decent fit. Your design will need to be adjusted depending on the material and resolution of the printer.\n\nNote that in the case of machined metal parts, the hole usually is not exactly 22mm but a coupe thau (=1/1000 inch) smaller as the bearings get pressed into the hole with a hydraulic press. They do deliberately deform the bearing and workpiece a tiny bit to sit perfectly. If you make the hole too much too small, the printed parts could break under the stress such treatment puts them under. However, if done just right the ring itself will deform just enough to fit the bearing's casing, as long as it is flexible enough. I have experienced prints of 2 wall thickness with 15-20% infill to allow a little bit of flex, which resulted in them applying quite some tension on a set of three screws: the Slider for 2040 Openbuild V-slot by FabianFriethjoph does use this effect from PLA to force the wheels into the guide rail just enough to prevent wobble.\n\nSince most filaments shrink, you might still need to use a larger-than 22 mm hole in design to get just a couple thau under the 22 mm you want for the perfect press fit.\n\nAdjustable position\n\nIn some cases, ball bearings are fitted into larger holes, and then fastened and adjusted with a set of 3 setscrews - their seat can be changed slightly to compensate for warp or shear of the whole item. However, printed plastics are bad at holding a thread, and it would be a very good idea to include a metal insert with the thread. For example, you could include a nut in the middle of the ring holding the bearing, or you might use metal inserts.\n\nCapping\n\nEven if one uses a snug press fit or adjustable position, it can be a good idea to use a cap that makes sure the bearing can't fall out of its area without removing the cap first.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n7696,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BanksySan,1.726248027126092,4.0129394960221205,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Adding a custom printer to Cura,\"I'm trying to enter the settings into Cura for the printer. \n\nThe manual has a screenshot of what they should be:\n\n\n\nHowever, when I run Cura and try to enter the settings I'm presented with different options:\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHow do I translate the settings from teh screenshot into the settings I have available?\nShould I be concerned about the settings that aren't available to enter?\n\n\nAre they important?\nDo I need to enter them somewhere else?\n\n\n\",Trish,\"Your manual is in another Castle!\n\nThe manual you look at is for Cura (1) 15.04. You are however using Ultimaker Cura 3, most likely the most recent 3.6.\n\nQuick references\n\nThe machine setup is for the physical settings of the machine - build volume, nozzle diameter, coordinate system and such.\n\nThe other settings you refer to are all set in the right bar, but you will have to switch from simple to advanced mode, and possibly activate the settings you need.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n7698,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BanksySan,1.0891412423578797,3.7976649486717515,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Silicone spray as a release agent?,\"I've just printed my very first part and it did not want to come loose from the build plate, it fact, it just broke instead.\n\nI can heat the bed up again and work it off, but I wondered if a release agent would be better?\n\nI have a silicon release spray (like those use with molds). Could I spray the base with that before starting printing?\n\",0scar,\"Plastic shrinks when it cools, usually, print come loose when you cool down the build plate. If you print on glass, you could put the plate with print in the refrigerator. \n\nIf you can't put the build plate in the refrigerator, wait for the plate to cool; the print part sometimes pops off, if not, prying up a corner with an artist palette knife or a razor blade scraper will be enough to pop the print off. \n\n\n\nNote that release agents can be used (from experience), but not what you suggest. E.g. when you print PETG on PEI it almost fuses, to release those prints you can use 3DLAC or any other PVA based spray or glue (which normally would increase the adhesion!) to be used as an intermediate less sticking release layer.\n\nDo note all the questions here of people not getting the filament to stick to the build plate, do not grease up the plate, else you won't have a print to get off!\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7698,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BanksySan,1.0891412423578797,3.7976649486717515,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Silicone spray as a release agent?,\"I've just printed my very first part and it did not want to come loose from the build plate, it fact, it just broke instead.\n\nI can heat the bed up again and work it off, but I wondered if a release agent would be better?\n\nI have a silicon release spray (like those use with molds). Could I spray the base with that before starting printing?\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"The problem with using a release agent is, you really run the risk of the print not sticking to the bed at all. Sticking to the bed is uber important, because if it's not there, the piece isn't going to come out right. Having it stick to the bed is a good thing (something which I struggled with for a while!!). \n\nI believe what most people do to get the piece unstuck from the bed is to use a putty knife. Wedge the flat part under the piece and twist slightly. Continue doing this around the print until you can get it to release. Your best bet is being careful by going easy with it though. Also, if the print is sticking well to the bed, ensure you're not using a raft. This will make it even more difficult. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7707,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BanksySan,2.528907649931287,4.566191788635222,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.306096197889172,Considerations when pausing a print job,\"Some prints take a long time and, as I'm not in a workshop, I need to pause the print sometimes.\n\nAre there any special considerations I should take when pausing, or can I literally just click pause, leave it for twelve hours or so, and it'll continue without any ill effects?\n\nI'm using PLA at present.\n\",Davo,\"If you keep the head hot during the pause, and over the print, you will melt the material already deposited.\n\nIf you move to X0 Y0 (like on a layer change) and pause there, you can cool off the head (or not), but will want to prime (advance) some material before resuming your print - or risk an initial void, as the heated material will expand and drip to some extent.\n\nIf you move to X0 Y0, retract, and cool off for your pause, you should be able to heat up, advance, and resume with few issues. You will probably still need to some manual cleaning where the resume was, as there is likely to be some buildup.\n\nAlso, if you let the bed cool during your pause, your print may become unstuck from the bed.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n7707,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BanksySan,2.528907649931287,4.566191788635222,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.306096197889172,Considerations when pausing a print job,\"Some prints take a long time and, as I'm not in a workshop, I need to pause the print sometimes.\n\nAre there any special considerations I should take when pausing, or can I literally just click pause, leave it for twelve hours or so, and it'll continue without any ill effects?\n\nI'm using PLA at present.\n\",Trish,\"It is not recommended to pause prints a considerable amount of time as the printed model will shrink and might warp during the pause. Also, layer bonding between the old and the new art after resuming will be weak, but this can be used to induce planned breaking layers.\n\nOn the other hand, if you have set up your printer properly, it is quite safe to leave the room even during the print:\n\n\nMaxtemp and Thermal Runaway Protection need to be set\na smoke detector over the printer should be installed\nthe printer should be placed in a way that no flammable objects can get in contact with it\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7726,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BanksySan,1.726248027126092,3.2043470614382206,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Calibration print shape,\"To check my leveling etc. is correct I was going to print a wide and thin cube. My theory being that I should be able to spot any obvious separation of the layers.\n\nDoes anyone have any better shape that they print as a dry run?\n\",Trish,\"Your calibration shape depends on what you want to calibrate on. Among the most popular:\n\n\nBenchy as a general \"\"overall\"\" test.\nLattice Cubes for retraction/stringing and overall quality.\nTwo pillars to test for stringing and temperature/cooling control.\nSpikes for retraction, stringing and temperature/cooling control.\nBridges for cooling control. \nCubes for sizing. They also allow seeing if the printer is skewed in X or Y.\nCircles, crosshairs, and squares of just a couple layers high to determine the correct center of the print area and measure sizing.\nCylinders in each other to check the achievable resolution and clearance.\nOverhang tests to test just overhangs.\nTemperature towers for temperature and overhang.\nImpact1 & Bend & Tension test pieces for filament properties - if you have the setups needed.\n\n\n\n\n1 - I couldn't find a proper model for an ISO 148-1 Charpy pendulum impact test in thingieverse\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n7740,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BanksySan,2.1782824847157594,4.781451569329939,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.585260288142579,Evidence of a warped build plate?,\"The first layer is very patchy indeed. I've calibrated the build plate pretty accurately but even if it was a badly calibrated build plate I don't think it would have this effect.\n\n\n\nIt doesn't seem to have a negative effect on the print.\n\n\nShould I be concerned about this? \nIs this due to a the build plate fault?\n\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"It looks like your first layer is way too close to the bed. The printer is trying to squash the plastic down very thinly, resulting in inconsistent extrusion. You will likely see better results if you move the nozzle away from the bed a little bit. Increasing the thickness of the first layer might help as well (this is a setting in your slicer).\n\nKeep in mind that if you're trying to print (e.g.) a first layer with a thickness of 0.05mm then a 0.025mm variation in the height of the build plate will result in very strong variation in the thickness of the extrusion on the first layer; in some places it will only be half as thick as in other places. If instead you used a 0.2mm first layer, then the 0.025mm variation barely makes a difference.\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n7740,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BanksySan,2.1782824847157594,4.781451569329939,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.585260288142579,Evidence of a warped build plate?,\"The first layer is very patchy indeed. I've calibrated the build plate pretty accurately but even if it was a badly calibrated build plate I don't think it would have this effect.\n\n\n\nIt doesn't seem to have a negative effect on the print.\n\n\nShould I be concerned about this? \nIs this due to a the build plate fault?\n\n\",Trish,\"First things first:\n\nDon't Panic\n\nYour heated bed is made from metal with some sort of Build-Tak-Clone surface. It is not broken from what I can see. Your print is not failed, however, the quality does suffer a little bit. \n\nYour bed does warp a little under heating. That is perfectly normal, and you should actually calibrate your layer thickness against a hot heatbed, not a cold one as metal that is heatbed extends - especially over the heating elements. The main heating element is usually in the center, so it \"\"bulges\"\" a little there, and if the heat has not equalized everywhere, it can show a dimple around it. So it warps slightly. The extent of the warping is determined by a couple factors, but from what your print looks like, it is not in a worrisome amount - the second and third layers will even it out. \n\nI can't tell how much time passed between reaching the print temperature of the bed and the start of the print, but you might want to make sure the heating behavior heats the bed first and the hotend second, allowing the heat energy in the bed to spread more evenly. A tiny G4 P20000 ; wait 20 seconds (see here)` in the pre-print code, before cleaning & priming the nozzle might also help.\n\nYou can try to get more even first layers by positioning the parts in areas that do not suffer from warping. \n\nAs Tom mentioned, you might get better base layers if you increase the first layer thickness. I usually print with about 0.15 to 0.2 mm for the first layer, regardless of the following layer thickness to even out small miscalibrations and unevenness in the heating.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n7754,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BanksySan,1.726248027126092,3.5837050697726562,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Dramatic failure of calibration print,\"I printed out this calibration shape from Thingiverse with an unexpectedly catastrophic failure. It looks like there are a lot of things wrong here.\n\n\n\n\nI used the Normal profile in Ultimaker Cura.\n\nThere's so much bad in this print that I'm not sure where to start.\n\n\nIt appears that walls weren't printed at all. \nResolution is way below par. \nOverhangs are collapsing (not sure if that would be expected at those angles)\nThe in-filling is inconsistent and \"\"blobby\"\".\n\n\",Trish,\"The failure you are faicing is underextrusion. Underextrusion can have several reasons. Among the three most common I encountered in my printers:\n\n\nThe nozzle could be clogged, hindering flow (Very crushy, squishy prints after it worked fine before)\n\n\nDissemble the filament path till you can push an acupuncture needle through the hotend, heat it, press out all filament, reassemble. \n\nThe extruder might be skipping steps or shredding filament\n\n\ncheck if it is just not gripping the filament, not turning at all or clicking.\nreal Troubleshooting might be needed\n\nThe g-code might have a bad setup for the filament you are using - try upping the higher extrusion multiplier/flow rate and print at least 2 walls!\n\n\nIn Ultimaker Cura: Custom > Material > Flow\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIf not there yet: Gear > Material > hook Flow\n\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7754,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BanksySan,1.726248027126092,3.5837050697726562,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Dramatic failure of calibration print,\"I printed out this calibration shape from Thingiverse with an unexpectedly catastrophic failure. It looks like there are a lot of things wrong here.\n\n\n\n\nI used the Normal profile in Ultimaker Cura.\n\nThere's so much bad in this print that I'm not sure where to start.\n\n\nIt appears that walls weren't printed at all. \nResolution is way below par. \nOverhangs are collapsing (not sure if that would be expected at those angles)\nThe in-filling is inconsistent and \"\"blobby\"\".\n\n\",0scar,\"The best thing that you can do first is find out whether you extrude the correct amount of filament before trying all sorts of things. You clearly have an under-extrusion problem. Please look into question: \"\"How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer?\"\".\n\nThe reason why you aren't extruding can be found in e.g. this answer. Note that the list in the answer excludes the stepper driver. If the current is too low, the torque is too low to push the filament (see this similar answer for stepper torque). \n\n\n\nSide note:\nNote that a properly setup extruder never has a need to adjust the flow unless the extruder is calibrated for 1.75 mm filament and the used filament is of different diameter.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7900,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BanksySan,1.726248027126092,3.846478051241465,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Bad layers in otherwise good prints,\"I can print a reasonably high quality print, but then there will be a millimetre or two of rubbish.\n\n\n\n\nThis can happen at the start of a print, in the middle or at the end.\n\nIt doesn't seem to be bad G-code as I can reprint with good results.\n\nThere seems to be a correlation between the bad layers and walls. They seem to occurs when there is a transition to printing a horizontal wall.\n\nThe latter if there two images if the tail end of a thirteen hour print.\n\n\nWhat's causing this?\nIs it something I can fix or is it that the (new) printer is failing?\n\n\",0scar,\"This can be caused by various problems, of which an aforementioned filament diameter is only one of multiple possible causes.\n\nThe observed phenomenon is called under-extrusion. Temporary under-extrusion can also be caused by filament friction on the spool, too low or too high filament extruder gear friction (pressure on the filament by the roller), or friction in a Bowden tube (dust particles). \n\nPlease ensure your spool unrolls freely (not entangled; entangled filament is audible like \"\"ker-chunk\"\" when the filament is rearranged on the spool by force of the extruder pulling) and check the extruder for friction or slip. If the extruder gear slips, this is also accompanied by an audible \"\"click\"\" that is called clicking. This generally implies that there is too much friction in the hot end, or an obstruction/clog.\n\nConsidering that your print recovers from the problem, and that it occurs randomly, the best guess is that your filament in entangled now and then.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7900,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BanksySan,1.726248027126092,3.846478051241465,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Bad layers in otherwise good prints,\"I can print a reasonably high quality print, but then there will be a millimetre or two of rubbish.\n\n\n\n\nThis can happen at the start of a print, in the middle or at the end.\n\nIt doesn't seem to be bad G-code as I can reprint with good results.\n\nThere seems to be a correlation between the bad layers and walls. They seem to occurs when there is a transition to printing a horizontal wall.\n\nThe latter if there two images if the tail end of a thirteen hour print.\n\n\nWhat's causing this?\nIs it something I can fix or is it that the (new) printer is failing?\n\n\",Dmitry Kasatsky,\"One of the reasons for such a defect may be a local decrease in the diameter of the filament. Carefully check your filament.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7908,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BanksySan,1.0891412423578797,2.6202374972039784,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Mystery filament cleaning fluid,\"Whilst looking to fix a different problem I had I came across this video.\n\nIt's a filament reel holder, but at 02:40 the person uses a mysterious fluid. I haven't seen anything like this before (though had wondered).\n\nMystery cleaning fluid.\n\nWhat practical problems would this cleaning fluid mitigate?\n\",Trish,\"\n\nThat's a filament cleaner/oiler combo. The black bottle is a variety of machine oil. \n\nThe effect of oilers on prints is heavily disputed in the community. The suggestion of plant oils is a very bad one as they can create residue that stays in the hotend and create clogs.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7908,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BanksySan,1.0891412423578797,2.6202374972039784,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Mystery filament cleaning fluid,\"Whilst looking to fix a different problem I had I came across this video.\n\nIt's a filament reel holder, but at 02:40 the person uses a mysterious fluid. I haven't seen anything like this before (though had wondered).\n\nMystery cleaning fluid.\n\nWhat practical problems would this cleaning fluid mitigate?\n\",avc,\"For really long Bowden tubes, some people use Teflon lubricant in a cleaner bead.\n\nNever used it myself, since I use a small tube my printer with the stepper on top of one of the Z axis steel rod mounting plates (Anet A8).\n\nOff topic, but by cooking and being a vaper, I vouch that organic compounds leave gunky residues on hot surfaces/parts.\n\",0.0,0.0\n7989,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BanksySan,2.1782824847157594,4.9784929270268465,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,Difficult to remove support material,\"I'm having a lot of difficulty removing support material without damaging the print.\n\n\n\n\nAre there any tips/tricks to doing this or is it just a case of sanding, cutting, chopping and then cleaning it up as best I can?\n\nSettings\n\n\nPrinter: Monoprice Ultimate\nFilament Temp: 200 °C\nPlate Temp: 60 °C\nMaterial: PLA\nSlicer: Ultimaker Cura\n\n\nPlacement: Everywhere\nAngle: 20°\nPattern: Concentric\n\n\n\",Anthony Herrera,\"Test out a couple different types and z distances. I've found that the 'lines' type on Cura turns out very well - they are generally easy to remove and leave few artifacts on the part. Some types of support I've found to be much more difficult to remove than others, I would recommend 'lines' or 'zig zag'. See the link at the bottom for all possible values. \n\nZ distance\n\nBeyond switching over to 'lines' instead of 'concentric' this is the one that I've found has the most impact on the how easy it is to remove supports. You want this to be as large as possible while still providing sufficient support. Do a couple test print, increasing this value until the detail start to get bad, then lower it just a bit. \n\nCurrent link for Cura setting explanations\n\nhttps://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20422-cura-support-settings (dead link)\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7989,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BanksySan,2.1782824847157594,4.9784929270268465,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,Difficult to remove support material,\"I'm having a lot of difficulty removing support material without damaging the print.\n\n\n\n\nAre there any tips/tricks to doing this or is it just a case of sanding, cutting, chopping and then cleaning it up as best I can?\n\nSettings\n\n\nPrinter: Monoprice Ultimate\nFilament Temp: 200 °C\nPlate Temp: 60 °C\nMaterial: PLA\nSlicer: Ultimaker Cura\n\n\nPlacement: Everywhere\nAngle: 20°\nPattern: Concentric\n\n\n\",TheNerdAlly,\"Changing slicer settings will ultimately help with future prints, but there is a tool that has been an absolute god send to me for cleaning up hard to clean up prints.\n\n\n\nPlease, go pick one up. You won't regret it. They make life so much easier to clean up prints from hard to clean up materials. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8064,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BanksySan,2.1782824847157594,3.745101023865115,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Correct nozzle replacement,\"I have a Monoprice Maker Ultimate 3D Printer and have tried to replace the nozzle.\n\nThe nozzles I bought turned out to be too small.\n\n\n\nWhat are the important specifications of a nozzle?\n\n\nThread size\nThread length\nThat plastic tube thing?\n\n\nMonoprice is very bad at publishing the specs, can I work it out with a caliper?\n\",Trish,\"What part fits?\n\nA replacement nozzle needs to fit 3 parameters:\n\n\nThread diameter and pitch need to match up, to allow mounting\nThread length should be close to the original to allow secure fastening\nThe style needs to fit: there are quite some styles of nozzle - most are not lined, yours is PTFE lined to the nozzle (see also Can the filament tube be outside of the nozzle?)\n\n\nMonoprice nozzles are not compatible with what is known as Ultimaker or E3D style (which you bought).\n\nWhat's a good nozzle?\n\nNow, what separates a good replacement nozzle from a bad one?\n\n\ngood machining to leave no burs and a smooth interior.\na good inner geometry that allows easy flow\noutlet hole is to size\n\n\nFinding premade replacement parts\n\nAs a first measure to not get the wrong replacement parts, make sure to add the manufacturer of your printer to the search and then check the thread diameter if given. In your case, you might have to add Monoprice or Toymaker, as those use this style of nozzle.\n\nReverse engineering a Nozzle\n\nNow, which measurements do you need to reverse engineer it?\n\n\nnozzle front pitch angle\nhex head flat-to-flat & hight\nrecess diameter & hight\nscrew shaft relief diameter & hight\nthread outer diameter & length\ninner bore diameter at entry (and in case of a lined one: after the step) & corresponding depth of drilling\namount of chamfering\n\n\nWith these, it's possible to do do a CNC model or a sketch of the outside and produce pretty much blanks or shells on a lathe that just need their last little bit of drilling... and here comes the tricky part: till now, all could be accessed from the outside. We are missing one profile though: the last piece of the inner bore geometry.\n\nThis one can't easily be measured, but if one can push some plastic in, let it cool and then pull it out, one might get a molding of it, which might allow to reverse engineer a fitting drill for the last piece.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n8064,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BanksySan,2.1782824847157594,3.745101023865115,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Correct nozzle replacement,\"I have a Monoprice Maker Ultimate 3D Printer and have tried to replace the nozzle.\n\nThe nozzles I bought turned out to be too small.\n\n\n\nWhat are the important specifications of a nozzle?\n\n\nThread size\nThread length\nThat plastic tube thing?\n\n\nMonoprice is very bad at publishing the specs, can I work it out with a caliper?\n\",0scar,\"This is a so-called MK10 nozzle, it is larger than the normal nozzles you find (as you found out).\n\nThere are quite a few questions on this nozzle, with e.g. this answer or this answer.\n\nThis nozzle uses M7 (metric threads of 7 mm) to have more room to fit the PTFE tube (white tube) in the nozzle itself. This tube forms the barrier between the heating source and the filament feed so that it does not melt too soon. You can find these nozzles on those typical auction websites by searching for \"\"MK10 and M7\"\".\n\nWhen you have ordered the correct nozzle you could reuse the existing PTFE liner if it has not degraded or damaged, or buy replacement PTFE tube of 4 mm outer diameter and 1.9 or 2 mm inner diameter and cut a similar sized replacement liner.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n8126,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BanksySan,1.726248027126092,3.007463813452983,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Loose brass heater block,\"I recently changes the nozzle on my Monoprice Maker Ultimate 3D printer (first time). The brass block that the nozzle screws into is free to rotate around an is wobbly.\n\n\n\nLoose block video\n\nI can't see any obvious nut/screw that's come loose though. It could well be that it's not important, but it was definitely tightly attached before it twisted when I removed the nozzle.\n\n\n\nI've taken the assembly apart:\n\n\n\n\n\nSilver bit removed:\n\n\n\",0scar,\"The silver looking cylindrical nut (with the flat faces) between the brass block and the black metal plate is the heat break of the assembly. The brass block should be tightly fit to this heat break. You could turn the brass block to get a close fit again. The heat break itself can move in the upper part, black plate, the cold end by the set screw on the side. Some hotend assembly types allow that, this screw is then used to fixate the orientation of the brass block. This type of hotend is not very common, it is a MK10.\n\nWithout the brass block it looks like this:\n\n\n\nMaybe this clears it up how the block is attached in between the heat break and the nozzle; it is positioned where you see the threads. The screw to position the brass heater block and the heat break is clearly visible.\n\nDon't try to wobble the brass block any further as you will wear out the threads, there appears to be a lot of play already.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n7650,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tom Auger,1.726248027126092,3.546298061061763,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Extruder_2 Stepper Motor does not work,\"I have a FlashForge Creator Pro. It is equipped with the board revision V SF7.7.\n\nMy Right extruder prints great, however, the left does not work at all. I have tried to diagnose the cause, but at this point, I feel all the mechanicals are working and it's coming down to logic boards. I don't know what and how to test these. The main problem is like this:\n\n\nWhen I order to Load/Unload Filament the motor does not advance\nWhen printing from the left extruder, filament does not come out.\n\n\nI have done the following tests:\n\n\nThe hotend works and the nozzle is clear. I can push filament through when it is hot.\nTeeth are in great shape, unclogged and perfectly aligned with the \"\"V\"\" on the guide wheel.\nThe Stepper motor is functional. I can perform the LED test on both pairs of leads and 3V LED lights are up when the motor is turned.\nThe Stepper cable is OK. I tested continuity on all 4 wires and they are fine.\nThe Connectors are fine and well-seated.\nVoltage to Stepper Driver board: 5.0V when the machine is powered ON\n\n\nI have however encountered these tests that seemed to show a fail:\n\n\nWhen I set the left extruder to \"\"Unload Filament\"\" the voltage across both pairs of leads is 0V\n\n\nHow can I continue troubleshooting and fixing the machine?\n\",Trish,\"The next logical step is to swap the working board with the one that powers the misbehaving motor. If this fixes the motor but makes the other one stop working, it hints that the stepper driver board might be broken. If it does not fix the motor but the right motor works again, while the left is not, then the motors or the board controlling the stepper drivers might be broken.\n\nAs changing the driver boards did (as OP said) swap the problem from the left to the right extruder, it is extremely likely that the board that was originally left is defective in some way.\n\nGetting a replacement part might be in order, and until then, running with a single extruder.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n7656,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,userqwert,0.0,3.1516766269614735,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How to connect a Geeetech Prusa I3 Pro B to Repetier-Host on mac,\"My y-axis is running in reverse and slamming into the front of the machine. This is not ideal for my needs.\n\nI need to connect to it with the Repetier-Host software to fix this, and in general. This connects fine via USB, but then says Unknown printer firmw... Waiting for temperature. Sending further commands does nothing as far as I can see.\n\nDoes anyone know what I need to install to get this working?\n\",0scar,\"This is not a direct answer to your question, but a solution for your problem. \n\nIf a motor is running in reverse, there are at least 2 solutions. You can reverse the connector of the leads to the stepper, or flash new firmware where you reverse the stepper in the configuration file. \n\nThe most effective and fast solution is to reverse the connector of rearrange the wires in the connector.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7660,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Juergen Schubert,2.1782824847157594,5.513640303084908,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Prusa i3 MK3 latest release first layer calibration issues,\"I am trying to get my first layer calibrating done but no matter what I do, I can not get the lines sticking to the bed.\n\nMy first question is the distance of the P.I.N.D.A. What I did was what Prusa recommends on this pic: \n\n\n\nI am using Prusa Slic3r with PLA and all default values. I am doing the first layer calibration of the setup menu and got the lines which you can remove and the last square which the nozzle is picking up so you don't have it on the print bed. The very first line on the left corner is not really squeezed. I am looking for some greenhorn help here.\n\",Mark,\"Calibrating the first layer height involves two steps:\n\nThe first step, as illustrated in that picture, is to adjust the PINDA probe to be roughly the right distance above the nozzle. The PINDA only has a sensing range of about a millimeter, so if it's too high, it can't detect the printbed; if it's too low, it will interfere with the printed object.\n\nThe second step, which you're having trouble with, is to calibrate the exact distance between the PINDA and the nozzle tip. The printer prints out a test pattern; while it's printing, you turn the the dial on the printer control panel to adjust the \"\"live-Z\"\" value. Typical values for a properly-assembled printer are between -0.5 and -1.0 (more-negative values are closer to the print bed). If the live-Z value is outside that range, you need to adjust the position of the PINDA probe.\n\nThe official Prusa procedure is good for getting a rough calibration. If you want more precision, the \"\"Life adjust Z - my way\"\" procedure on the Prusa forums is good. Basically, you print out a large one-layer square, adjust the live-Z value halfway through, and see which half has a better first layer. Repeat until satisfied.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7660,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Juergen Schubert,2.1782824847157594,5.513640303084908,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Prusa i3 MK3 latest release first layer calibration issues,\"I am trying to get my first layer calibrating done but no matter what I do, I can not get the lines sticking to the bed.\n\nMy first question is the distance of the P.I.N.D.A. What I did was what Prusa recommends on this pic: \n\n\n\nI am using Prusa Slic3r with PLA and all default values. I am doing the first layer calibration of the setup menu and got the lines which you can remove and the last square which the nozzle is picking up so you don't have it on the print bed. The very first line on the left corner is not really squeezed. I am looking for some greenhorn help here.\n\",0scar,\"Your problem is that you need to define the sensor to nozzle level offset and store it in the printers memory.\n\nWhen you have homed the printer, you should end up with the nozzle at a certain level where the sensor trigger point is now defined in relation to the bed. Next step is to relate the trigger point to the nozzle level, instruct the nozzle to go down to the build plate (placing a sheet of paper on the plate) by using the buttons of the menu to move the Z axis. When you feel friction when you pull the piece of paper, you reached the correct offset. Now store the value you read from the Z axis display as Z offset in the menu. Alternatively use G-code M851 Z-x.xx, where x.xx is the value you read from the display. M500 will store it in memory.\n\",0.0,0.0\n7662,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cds333,1.726248027126092,3.304391138419485,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Marlin firmware function call location for menu commands?,\"I found the pause_print() function in Marlin_main.cpp but when I search the rest of the files I cannot find the file that calls this function. I expected to find it somewhere in the file that controls the LCD menu but it only exists in main.\n\nWhat file has the function calls that happen when I select a menu option from the LCD?\n\nAnd why isn't pause_print() showing up elsewhere as a function call?\n\",Trish,\"This function is called by the g-codes M125 and M600\n\nI could find ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE defined in configuration_adv.h and called in Conditionals_post.h, trice in Marlin.h, referenced as needed for M600 in Marlin_Main.ccp and mentioned 2 times.\n\nIn Marlin_Main.ccp it also declares the function pause_print in line 6482 to 6571. Its start and end are these:\n\nstatic bool pause_print(const float &retract, const point_t &park_point, const float &unload_length = 0,\n const int8_t max_beep_count = 0, const bool show_lcd = false\n ) {\n if (move_away_flag) return false; // already paused\n\n #ifdef ACTION_ON_PAUSE\n SERIAL_ECHOLNPGM(\"\"//action:\"\" ACTION_ON_PAUSE);\n #endif\n\n[...]\n\n HOTEND_LOOP()\n thermalManager.start_heater_idle_timer(e, nozzle_timeout);\n\n return true;\n }\n\n\nThis function does define the pause state, and relies on the ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE in some cases. But what calls it? Simple enough, both calls are in the same Marlin_Main.ccp that defines it. The calls are in the functions that are used for filament change:\n\n\ngcode_M125line 8534 (Save current position and move to filament change position)\ngcode_M600line 9939 (Pause for filament change: \"\"M600 X Y Z E L\"\")\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7676,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cds333,3.452496054252184,5.890588747493405,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,3.749318730431847,2.8086301675739853,How to add menu options to the (Marlin firmware) LCD menu?,\"Where is the correct Marlin firmware file and location to add code that I want to shop up in the LCD menu of my printer, and then execute the function I write when the button is pressed?\n\nFor example I want to add a menu item that says \"\"Preheat Custom\"\" that is in the same menu as \"\"preheat PLA\"\" and \"\"preheat ABS\"\" and then runs code to heat to values I specify.\n\nI'm running Marlin Firmware version 1.1.9 on a Creality Ender 3.\n\",0scar,\"The answer to your question is the file ultralcd.cpp. Nowadays, you can also enable extra option through the Configuration_adv.h file, just enable:\n\n#define CUSTOM_USER_MENUS\n\n\nand edit the options beneath it to your needs (otherwise it will use the preset values from the Configuration.h file).\n\n\n\nAdd custom items using ultralcd.cpp\n\nThis is how I used to do it if you want to add items to the menu in Marlin Firmware through the ultralcd.cpp. It is best to first look at the current implementation of the menu items. As you already mention Preheat PLA, that would be the first to search for. Searching in files is easy when you go to the github website with the Marlin firmware sources, functionality is available for searching in the files. Alternatively, download a copy of the firmware and use a free \"\"grep\"\" utility to search in files.\n\nSearching for Preheat PLA will show you a bunch of language translation files. These point to the use of a constant MSG_PREHEAT_1 which finds its presence in ultralcd.cpp. This hints to function lcd_preheat_m1_menu that is called by MENU_ITEM which adds menu items to LCD. You could start there to add your own option.\n\n\n\nDemonstration\n\nAs a quick demonstration, I've added a CUSTOM PREHEAT item by copying the lcd_preheat_m2_menu function in ultralcd.cpp and renamed this lcd_preheat_m3_menu (a full functional item needs changes within the lcd_preheat_m3_menu as it now uses the constants from the ABS preheat option).\n\nYou then add the item to the menu by changing this part of the code:\n\n\n //\n // Preheat for Material 1 and 2\n //\n #if TEMP_SENSOR_1 != 0 || TEMP_SENSOR_2 != 0 || TEMP_SENSOR_3 != 0 || TEMP_SENSOR_4 != 0 || HAS_HEATED_BED\n MENU_ITEM(submenu, MSG_PREHEAT_1, lcd_preheat_m1_menu);\n MENU_ITEM(submenu, MSG_PREHEAT_2, lcd_preheat_m2_menu);\n // ADD THIS LINE:\n MENU_ITEM(submenu, \"\"CUSTOM PREHEAT\"\", lcd_preheat_m3_menu);\n #else\n MENU_ITEM(function, MSG_PREHEAT_1, lcd_preheat_m1_e0_only);\n MENU_ITEM(function, MSG_PREHEAT_2, lcd_preheat_m2_e0_only);\n #endif\n\n\nAfter compiling and uploading to the printer board, enter the Prepare menu and scroll down to see:\n\n\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n7676,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cds333,3.452496054252184,5.890588747493405,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,3.749318730431847,2.8086301675739853,How to add menu options to the (Marlin firmware) LCD menu?,\"Where is the correct Marlin firmware file and location to add code that I want to shop up in the LCD menu of my printer, and then execute the function I write when the button is pressed?\n\nFor example I want to add a menu item that says \"\"Preheat Custom\"\" that is in the same menu as \"\"preheat PLA\"\" and \"\"preheat ABS\"\" and then runs code to heat to values I specify.\n\nI'm running Marlin Firmware version 1.1.9 on a Creality Ender 3.\n\",Mark,\"There might be a better solution. \n\nMarlin supports custom user menus, in configuration_adv.h, you probably should try to keep your changes limited to the configuration*.h files. \n\nThe menu code is kind of ugly and you can easily break things. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7688,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cds333,1.0891412423578797,3.2292362727989086,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Marlin Firmware Manual Mesh Leveling,\"Why am I seeing two different versions of the way to enable manual leveling?\n\nOne option says to enable:\n\n#define manual_bed_leveling\n#define mesh_bed_leveling\n\n\nAnd the other says to enable:\n\n#define probe_manually\n#define LCD_bed_leveling\n#define mesh_bed_leveling\n\n\nHow is it that they both work? One is from the official marlin github and the other is from a tutorial that is confirmed to work.\n\",0scar,\"If you look into the most recent version of Marlin you will find in file Marlin/SanityCheck.h:\n\nelif defined(MANUAL_BED_LEVELING)\n #error \"\"MANUAL_BED_LEVELING is now LCD_BED_LEVELING. Please update your configuration.\"\"\n\n\nThis implies that constant MANUAL_BED_LEVELING is obsolete. It is not found anywhere else except for the file linked above. So, no, the constants are not supposed to do exactly the same. Instead an error is shown on compiling to update your configuration to exclude the constant MANUAL_BED_LEVELING.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7713,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cds333,2.8153892694839717,3.8003227302020064,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,How to make physical buttons send gcode?,\"I want to hook up an arduino to my creality printer running marlin firmware, such that I can have a few physical buttons mounted on the machine that will execute commands such as preheat, home, disable steppers, and so on, so that I dont have to navigate through the clunky LCD screen.\n\nIdeally it would work in addition to the normal LCD and serial functionality, so it would not impede me from using cura to print via usb, etc.\n\nWhat is the best way to do this?\n\",Tal,\"One option would be to have your printer controlled by an Octoprint server. You would then use the Octoprint Api plugin to use your arduino to send commands to octoprint - and from there, your printer. Octoprint has a fairly fully-featured rest api that allows you to send arbitrary GCODE to your printer (see here). You would then hook up your buttons to some code that sends the gcode commands to the printer when pressed. It's certainly not as simple as installing a plugin - you'll have to write some interface code, but it looks like those APIs should be able to do what you want, without interfering with the standard controls at all.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7714,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cds333,1.726248027126092,4.73092830354748,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,Stepper motors making noise after steps/when idle,\"Why is it that if I execute a gcode command that causes the stepper motor to turn in reverse (any negative move on the X axis), after the step it will emit a high pitched whine until it gets another command to rotate in its forward direction?\n\nExecuting multiple reverse commands will cause the tone to vary in frequency each step, and always it goes away after another step in the opposite (forward) direction. \n\nSometimes.\n\nAnd other times it does it in both directions, but only on every other step. One step +X its there, next step its gone, next step its back, and so on...\n\nThen they also make a different noise when idle, before I disable them with the \"\"disable steppers\"\" command.\n\nWhat are these noises?\n\nAnd is it bad to leave the motors in this state? Will it burn them out?\n\",0scar,\"When idle, the stepper is stationary, no rotation. \n\nNormal standard electric motors will start spinning as soon as you apply power to them. However, steppers only rotate when a magnetic field is applied1):\n\n\n Stepper motors effectively have multiple \"\"toothed\"\" electromagnets\n arranged around a central gear-shaped piece of iron. The\n electromagnets are energized by an external driver circuit or a micro\n controller. To make the motor shaft turn, first, one electromagnet is\n given power, which magnetically attracts the gear's teeth. When the\n gear's teeth are aligned to the first electromagnet, they are slightly\n offset from the next electromagnet. This means that when the next\n electromagnet is turned on and the first is turned off, the gear\n rotates slightly to align with the next one. From there the process is\n repeated. Each of those rotations is called a \"\"step\"\", with an integer\n number of steps making a full rotation. In that way, the motor can be\n turned by a precise angle.\n \n The motor's position can then be commanded to move and hold at one of\n these steps without any position sensor for feedback (an open-loop\n controller), as long as the motor is carefully sized to the\n application in respect to torque and speed.\n\n\nWhen you power the printer and energyze the steppers there is no movement, but, the magnetic coils in the stepper are activated to hold the rotor in position. This is controlled by the stepper driver. The creation of the signal for the magnetic coils is causing the noise. It is a function of the driver type, micro-stepping setting, the stepper motor inductance, current setting and supply voltage.\n\nIf the stepper motor, stepper driver and power supply can take it, increasing the current setting of the driver may lower the noise.\n\nTurning off the steppers (disabling them with G-code using M2, M18, or M84 depending on your firmware) will stop the noise, but you will easily lose the current position as it is not hold into place anymore.\n\n\n\n1) source Wikipedia\n\",0.0,0.0\n7714,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cds333,1.726248027126092,4.73092830354748,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,Stepper motors making noise after steps/when idle,\"Why is it that if I execute a gcode command that causes the stepper motor to turn in reverse (any negative move on the X axis), after the step it will emit a high pitched whine until it gets another command to rotate in its forward direction?\n\nExecuting multiple reverse commands will cause the tone to vary in frequency each step, and always it goes away after another step in the opposite (forward) direction. \n\nSometimes.\n\nAnd other times it does it in both directions, but only on every other step. One step +X its there, next step its gone, next step its back, and so on...\n\nThen they also make a different noise when idle, before I disable them with the \"\"disable steppers\"\" command.\n\nWhat are these noises?\n\nAnd is it bad to leave the motors in this state? Will it burn them out?\n\",entropicCreator,\"this is normalISH for stepper motors. they have a fair ammount of current pulsing through them at relatively high frequencies, coils and other parts that will vibrate. if it quite loud you can look into the boards that drive them, depending on your printer they are replaceable, and better 'drivers' send cleaner signals that make less noise. however: if your motors get hot or start making clicking noises, or stop randomly, or acting up more significantly, you should look adjusting how much current they are getting. search for stepper motor calibration, basically you need to adjust the ammount of current the motors are getting, but if the machine prints normally, then this is not something you want to play with. you can also probably find the data sheet for your motor, they are usually rated to operate up to about 50C\n\",0.0,0.0\n7760,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cds333,1.0891412423578797,3.25325199599518,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How to attach bowden tubing to other side of extruder?,\"I built a drybox to house the filament roll but now I have to figure out how to attach the PTFE bowden tubing to the other side of the extruder. \n\nCurrently the filament just feeds in through the countersunk hole on the MK8 CR-10 style extruder tension lever, but is too close to the Z leadscrew to tap the hole and put a PC4-M6 push fitting. \n\nWhat is the preferred way to attach this?\n\nTHanks!\n\",Trish,\"There are several ways to mount a PTFE tubing to the extruder's feeding side.\n\nConnector solution\n\nYou'll need a pair of PTFE tubing couplers, a length of PTFE tubing and tapping tools for the mounting, and the lever should be metal:\n\n\nDisassemble the extruder\nTake the intake side lever\nopen up the intake hole to your PTFE tube connector's inner diameter (that is the diameter, where you cut the thread from!)\ntap the hole\nscrew in PTFE coupler\nconnect to intake tube\nRepeat 3 to 6 for the drybox side, possibly add a nut from the inside\nFeed filament through the tube\n\n\nIf you have a plastic side, it reads like this, and you will need an insert that fits your adapter's screw:\n\n\nDisassemble the extruder\nTake the intake side lever\nopen up the intake hole to a bit under your insert's outer diameter\nuse a soldering iron to melt the insert into the lever\nscrew in PTFE coupler\nconnect to intake tube\nRepeat 3 to 6 for the drybox side\nFeed filament through the tube\n\n\nfree \"\"inner\"\" side\n\nInstead of using 2 connectors on either end of the tube, the one on the extruder can just be \"\"slid\"\" into the block and then fastened.\n\n\ndisassemble the extruder\ntake the intake side lever\ndrill open till the PTFE tube can slide in snugly into its rest position against an inner ledge.\n\n\nFor REALLY hygroscopic material, drill through\ndrill a side-hole and use a small screw to fasten the tube in place\nalternatively, use hot glue on the outside and secure the tube.\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7844,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cds333,0.0,5.148534386338548,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,-0.7766301205685938,\"E3D V6 nozzle vs MK8 nozzle, first layer adhesion\",\"Does anyone notice that when they upgrade from an MK8Makerbot(?) to a E3D V6 hotend that when using the same settings and bed-leveling/z-distance-setting procedures, that the filament is much more likely to be pulled up and bunch up around the nozzle while printing the first layer?\n\nIt occurs mostly when printing small details, such as 3 mm bolt holes, and not so much when laying down long lines.\n\nIs this due to the shape of the nozzle, which on the V6 is much more flat when compared to the MK8 which is more sharp, or is it due to something else that can be easily fixed?\n\n\n\n\",0scar,\"When filament curls up this generally means that there is some sort of obstruction or burned material in the nozzle causing uneven flow. You can use the Atomic Method from this answer.\n\n\n\nBeing a new nozzle, I would expect that this is not the case, so that it should just drop out of the nozzle and not curl up. It could be that the nozzle is not perfectly machined and a defect in the geometry is causing this. You could try to replace the nozzle with another nozzle. They are pretty cheap, you should buy a few extra.\n\nAs far as why the filament sticks easier to the E3D nozzle when it curls up, is that this nozzle has a (hexagonal) flange that sticks out, while the other nozzle does not have such a flange. If it curls up, it has a larger probability to hit the flange and stick to the outside of the nozzle than a nozzle that has no such flange.\n\",0.0,0.0\n7844,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cds333,0.0,5.148534386338548,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,-0.7766301205685938,\"E3D V6 nozzle vs MK8 nozzle, first layer adhesion\",\"Does anyone notice that when they upgrade from an MK8Makerbot(?) to a E3D V6 hotend that when using the same settings and bed-leveling/z-distance-setting procedures, that the filament is much more likely to be pulled up and bunch up around the nozzle while printing the first layer?\n\nIt occurs mostly when printing small details, such as 3 mm bolt holes, and not so much when laying down long lines.\n\nIs this due to the shape of the nozzle, which on the V6 is much more flat when compared to the MK8 which is more sharp, or is it due to something else that can be easily fixed?\n\n\n\n\",cds333,\"Turns out this can be fixed by increasing the bed temp to 65-70 °C and of course increasing the extruder temp by 30 °C or so, which is standard for the all metal hotends (no idea why)\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7847,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cds333,1.0891412423578797,4.190098673268896,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Marlin 1.1.x on Ender 3 changing PREHEAT_1_FAN_SPEED has no effect?,\"I dont want the part cooling fan on during preheat, especially when I'm only heating the bed, it is just unnecessarily loud and serves no purpose at that time.\n\nHowever when I set PREHEAT_1_FAN_SPEED to 0 it has no effect, the fan still spins at full speed as soon as I preheat either the hotend or the bed.\n\nSo why is this setting not working and how do I fix this?\n\nI am using the latest version of Marlin.\n\nThe only one that is defined is the one that I am editing and it is the one that appears on line ~1260 of the stock configuration.h\n\n#define PREHEAT_1_FAN_SPEED 0 // Value from 0 to 255\n\n\nAnd this is the grep result of searching the entire firmware folder:\n\n\n\",0scar,\"This answer is now obsolete now that the OP has updated the question with additional information. It is left here as a possible solution for those who have tinkered with there firmware.\n\n\n\nPart cooling fan speed during preheat (from menu) is controlled by the setting \n\n#define PREHEAT_1_FAN_SPEED 0 // Value from 0 to 255\n\n\nin Configuration.h where a value of 0 implies no rotation, or 0 % and 255 implies 100 %.\n\nIf changing this value in your configuration does not result in a reduced fan speed, you could have this constant be defined somewhere else overriding this value.\n\",0.0,0.0\n7847,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cds333,1.0891412423578797,4.190098673268896,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Marlin 1.1.x on Ender 3 changing PREHEAT_1_FAN_SPEED has no effect?,\"I dont want the part cooling fan on during preheat, especially when I'm only heating the bed, it is just unnecessarily loud and serves no purpose at that time.\n\nHowever when I set PREHEAT_1_FAN_SPEED to 0 it has no effect, the fan still spins at full speed as soon as I preheat either the hotend or the bed.\n\nSo why is this setting not working and how do I fix this?\n\nI am using the latest version of Marlin.\n\nThe only one that is defined is the one that I am editing and it is the one that appears on line ~1260 of the stock configuration.h\n\n#define PREHEAT_1_FAN_SPEED 0 // Value from 0 to 255\n\n\nAnd this is the grep result of searching the entire firmware folder:\n\n\n\",cds333,\"Apparently, I forgot a critical step:\n\nWhile I have completely reconfigured the LCD menus, setup custom 25-point mesh leveling, changed a bunch of other numerical values, and flashed the firmware dozens of times, certain values will never be updated unless you remember to initialize the EEPROM after the flash! \n\nHonestly I kinda wish they would make it all or nothing but I guess there is limited space so particular things take priority.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8327,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cds333,2.1782824847157594,5.028329421694284,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Upgrading to higher torque extruder motor creality ender3,\"So according to E3D customer service, the V6 is designed to have higher back pressure than the MK8. This leads to underextrusion with PLA and all kinds of problems unless you increase the temp by 30 - 50 °C so it will heat the filament faster and reduce the back pressure. They recommended getting a geared extruder such as the titan when I contacted them. Why none of this is mentioned on the V6 product page I have no idea, but I am not about to spend the cost of the V6 again on an E3D extruder unless it is truly the only option. I would imagine one could just replace the stock extruder motor with higher torque.\n\n\nDoes anyone know the max amperage motor you can replace the stock extruder motor with?\nIs a 2 A NEMA 17 too much?\nWill a 2 A stepper give any more torque than the stock one (I know it is rated at a higher oz-in but does that actually translate to more torque)?\nFinally, where are the specs for the Ender 3 stepper drivers listed?\n\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"So the 'obvious' answer to this problem is to run a slower print speed, so it isn't so much as a case of information being missing, as there being a non-trivial trade off between speed, quality and cost.\n\nUsing the E3D products as examples, a double length NEMA17 can indeed deliver twice the kg/cm as a standard one, and a slimline a little less. E3D suggest that 'standard' A4988 drivers are capable of supplying 2A, but this is right at the limit of their performance (and you would certainly want to consider heatskinking/forced cooling).\n\nE3D also list a standard stepper motor with a 5.18:1 reduction gearbox. This should give a good 4x increase in driven torque, and if you can find just the gearbox, that might be the cheapest option. You don't need such a high reduction, but this is limited by the physical size available.\n\nIn the absence of any better specs, a physically similar motor might be a good reference. You can check this by comparing various parts from different manufacturers. Regardless of the current capacity, more torque generally means a larger sized part.\n\",0.0,0.0\n8410,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cds333,1.726248027126092,2.663475740203885,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Premium heated bed upgrade options?,\"The stock heated bed which came on my Creality printer is significantly warped beyond any simple leveling with the screws. Lets say I want to upgrade the stock bed to a premium heated bed, does such a thing even exist? None of the beds I see list any specs or tolerances regarding flatness or deviation.\n\nWhat should I be looking for to ensure I am looking at a superior bed?\n\",Perplexed Dipole,\"If you are only trying to upgrade the \"\"flatness\"\" of the bed and are okay with the heating times you can just put a peice of glass on top. Otherwise you can look into getting a milled tool plate which will be much flatter than a rolled or stamped plate, but you will have to attach your own heating element to this.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11314,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cds333,1.726248027126092,2.589815693999396,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,How to switch firmware from 12 V heated bed to 110 V SSR heated bed?,\"According to the instructions I have read, you use the same output on the printers mainboard to control a 110 V heated bed with a solid state relay, as you do to power the 12/24 V heated bed that comes with the printer. \n\nThe relay's datasheet states that its max input current is 25 mA, obviously a 12/24 V heated bed would draw a lot more than that.\n\nHow does Marlin know that the heated bed pins are controlling a relay now instead of a bed directly, and therefore should limit their current output?\n\nIn other words: I am worried that if I just drop in the relay, it will burn up since the board still thinks it needs to supply high current to the bed.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"\n How does Marlin know that the heated bed pins are controlling a relay now instead of a bed directly, and therefore should limit their current output?\n\n\nMarlin does not (need to) know this. Simply put, all Marlin does is switch on/off the voltage at the heated bed output. The amount of current that will flow is a function of the voltage and the device connected. If you connect a heated bed to a 12 V voltage, a high current will flow. If you connect your relay to 12 V, only a small current will flow.\n\n\n In other words- I am worried that if I just drop in the relay, it will burn up since the board still thinks it needs to supply high current to the bed.\n\n\nYou do not need to worry about this. Your question is essentially equivalent to this: \"\"if I replace my 100W incandescent lightbulb with a 1W LED one, do I need to replace the light switch in the wall?\"\" The switch (i.e., your printer board/Marlin) does not care what load is connected to it, so long as it does not exceed the maximum rated current.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11314,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cds333,1.726248027126092,2.589815693999396,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,How to switch firmware from 12 V heated bed to 110 V SSR heated bed?,\"According to the instructions I have read, you use the same output on the printers mainboard to control a 110 V heated bed with a solid state relay, as you do to power the 12/24 V heated bed that comes with the printer. \n\nThe relay's datasheet states that its max input current is 25 mA, obviously a 12/24 V heated bed would draw a lot more than that.\n\nHow does Marlin know that the heated bed pins are controlling a relay now instead of a bed directly, and therefore should limit their current output?\n\nIn other words: I am worried that if I just drop in the relay, it will burn up since the board still thinks it needs to supply high current to the bed.\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"There are two current parameters which you are looking at in your instructions for the solid state relay. The first one (the 25mA) is for the control circuit. This is how much amperage the device itself will draw when in operation. The second is for the load circuit. This is the max amperage which can pass through the device.\n\nYour instruction sheet shows the device having the ability to work at 10A, 15A, 20A, 25A, or 40A. These are different ratings for the same style of device. When you purchase the device, you'd need to specify which amperage rating you'd want your device to be at. They use the same spec sheet for all five flavors, because they are basically the same thing with the one exception, which is the amp rating.\n\",0.0,0.0\n11412,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cds333,1.726248027126092,2.1749897553859707,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Warped bed - bulge vs dip?,\"Theoretically what is better- a warped bed with a dip in the middle, or a bulge in the middle?\n\n(I would instinctively think that a dip would be better, since in a perfect world the glass build surface would still span the dip, and then the flatness of the surface relies on the structural integrity of the glass, whereas a bulge would not do the same, instead causing the glass to teeter atop the bulge)\n\nThoughts?\n\",0scar,\"That depends on the use. If you have a slate of glass a dip might be better (but the heat transfer at the dip would not be ideal), a bulge would stress and tilt the glass.\n\nIf you print directly onto the metal build surface it would not matter if you use a(n automatic) bed levelling system because you can compensate for the bulge or the dip using a mesh of the bed. Without a scan of the build platform you would have issues in getting the filament to stick.\n\nBasically, there is not a better solution, best solution is to get a flat bed if the bulge or dip are making printing difficult.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n11422,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cds333,2.1782824847157594,2.229769214286525,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,\"Marlin \"\"Tune->Bed Z\"\" vs \"\"Tune->Babystep Z\"\" vs Z Offset?\",\"What is the difference between:\n\n\nTune -> Bed Z \nTune -> Babystep Z\nControl -> Motion -> Z Offset\n\n\nAnd when are you supposed to use \"\"Bed Z\"\"?\n\",mikezter,\"\nTune -> Bed Z\n\n\nhttp://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lcd_menu.html#tune\n\nPer description in this table, this refers to the Mesh Bed Leveling process. It allows to modify all saved mesh z-offsets by the given amount.\n\n\nTune -> Babystep Z\n\n\nhttp://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M290.html\n\nThis just instructs the motor to move the given amount, once, without changing any parameters. \n\n\nControl -> Motion -> Z Offset\n\n\nhttp://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M851.html\n\nHere we are talking about the offset of a z probe (e.g. BL-Touch) from the nozzle. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n11431,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cds333,2.1782824847157594,2.55797842413943,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,CR-10S / Ender5+ LCD Touchscreen Firmware Editing,\"How would I go about editing the LCD menus for the touchscreen? \n\nOddly the ender5+ is supposed to be an upgrade but the ender5 (regular) has so much more stuff you can control from the lcd screen. Flow control, PID tuning, etc.\n\nWith my ender 3 is was pretty easy- you simply edit the ultralcd.cpp, you can then add your own menus and commands.\n\nOn the Ender 5+ and the CR-10S pro I'm guessing the touchscreen has its own set of firmware files- I am guessing this because I found a set of files for the touchscreen- different color screens and such, but they do not include any uncompiled files nor does the marlin firmware for the CR-10 have any mention of those image files in them.\n\nSo where do I go next? Thanks!\n\n\n\n\n\",0scar,\"I've been digging into the sources and from what I understand, it is not very easy to change the menus, you should possess some programming skills to change it. It appears that the screen is operating on its own firmware and the board is running a special fork from Marlin.\n\nThe screen is identified in code by constant CREALITY_DWIN. It appears that the screen receives/uses precreated images (from this download you find these screen captures). The code references the bitmaps by a number and a base number (ExchangePageBase). E.g. codeline:\n\nRTS_SndData(ExchangePageBase + 78, ExchangepageAddr);\n\n\nsends this image:\n\n\n\nThe specific code is found in this specific fork of Marlin in files Creality_DWIN.cpp and Creality_DWIN.h.\n\nIn order to make your own menu item, you need to add code to send new bitmaps and retrieve the touched position.\n\",0.0,0.0\n7667,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lemmy,1.726248027126092,4.507430220259686,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,RAMPS board - no power to heatbed,\"I'm setting up my first 3D Printer, a Prusa i3 MK2 clone. \nWhen I try to heat the bed, nothing happens. Then Marlin throws this error after a while: \n\nBed Heating Failed\nPRINTER HALTED\nPlease reset\n\n\nIn Pronterface I see this in the console:\n\nError:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: bed\n[ERROR] Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: bed\n\nError:Printer halted. kill() called!\n[ERROR] Error:Printer halted. kill() called!\n\n\nThere is 0 voltage across D8 on the Ramps board, where it is connected. When I heat up the hotend, on the other hand, which is connected to D10, I see 12V across the board's D10 terminals.\n\nThe bed is MK42 type.\n\nMy axes, extruder hotend and fans are working OK. \n\nI previously burned out the 5 V regulator on my Arduino Mega by misconnecting one of the end stops. I replaced the regulator on the board and the 5 V supply seems to be working OK again. However I wondered if I might have damaged the board in some other respect? Or is there a config setting in Marlin I should change?\n\",Greenonline,\"Without testing the board(s) completely, by probing each component, it would be a bit hard to tell precisely. Your best bet might be to try it and see if it works ok, and if not, you'll see exactly what doesn't work... if that makes sense. Whilst not exactly the same issue, this answer, to the question How drastic is reversing the polarity of the power supply to a RAMPS board?, might help.\n\nNow, after having correctly read your question (:-D), I see that you've already done the above, that I mentioned. Maybe these links will help: \n\n\nNo power to heatbed, how to test ramps for problem??, and;\n(RAMPS)Hotend change pin from D8 to D10. \n\n\nThere are other similar links on the RepRap Wiki. You might need to check the power MOSFET and/or the fuse. The problem is knowing whether the Arduino Mega is damaged, or the RAMPS board, or both.\n\nHowever, perform some of the relatively simple checks, listed below, for the:\n\n\nOutputs;\nMOSFETs - in particular Q3 which is switched by D8, and;\nFuses - in particular, F2 (MFR1100 - refer to schematic below) as it is this fuse alone which provides 12V2 which, in turn, is used by D8/Q3 for the heated bed. It should be noted that there are two 12 V supply lines and it is the latter which concerns the heated bed:\n\n\n12V, and;\n12V2\n\n\n\n\n\nSalient points from (RAMPS)Hotend change pin from D8 to D10\n\n\n Also... There is something else to be aware of. Depending on what you claim you are attaching to the RAMPS board, the pins move around. You have 3 High Power MOS-FET's. You can use the RAMPS board to drive some combination of heat bed, fan and 2 extruders. Depending on what you claim you have on your printer, the pin numbers for things move around.\n \n I kind of doubt that is what is causing you problems... But it might be...\n\n\nand check the config (bit of a long shot)\n\n\n Have you checked that you don't have any error condition (such as MAXTEMP or MINTEMP) which prevents the hotend from being switched on?\n\n\nBe wary of randomly switching outputs for high current draw devices (such as the heated bed)\n\n\n Your topic says \"\"D8 to D10\"\" but if this is your heated bed, you can't\n do this. D8 is on the 11amp circuit. plugging the heated bed into D9\n or D10 goes threw the 5amp fuse and it will blow. \n\n\nTo test the outputs:\n\n\n But basically test the io ports\n \n Remove the ramps\n \n Setup a led and resistor in the D port you which to use (make sure led\n is the correct polarity) \n \n load up the blink demo program, change the port it uses to the port\n you testing. Upload firmware (this will overwrite you current\n firmware) Does it blink? yes the IO pin is ok, no, The IO pin is dead.\n \n repeat for all io pins you which to test\n \n See learn.adafruit.com for more information\n\n\nSalient points from No power to heatbed, how to test ramps for problem??:\n\nCheck the fuses\n\n\n Check the fuse (the big yellow thing). Connect you meter to ground and both sides of the fuse in turn. You should get about 12v on both.\n\n\nContinuity check\n\n\n continuity test the heated bed with it not plugged in. is it possible you have an open in your circuit?\n\n\nand \n\n\n Have you checked the cables? Also is the led coming on for D8?\n\n\nThe next section of the thread deals with an overheated (50 A?) MOSFET. Check the condition of that:\n\n\n ok think i found the culprit, any ideas why that blew?\n\n\n\n\nA couple of good points\n\n\n With the bed I found there are 2 issues at play here.\n \n \n The standard MOSFET that is typically found in theese kits have an RDS that creates a fair amount of heat at 10A and at this level the\n datasheet says stick a heatsink on. Screwing a piece of metal to the\n MOSFET cures the issue I use an aluminium bracket because thats what I\n had laying around, thermal compound helps too if you have that laying\n around from a PC. \n A lot of heat beds state that they are 1.2ohms but aren't ( just a variance in manufacturing prehaps? ) sticking a cheap multimeter\n across it says this but in practice it may not be reading correctly. I\n found this out because my bed kept tripping a 11A polyfuse but was\n fine with a 12A meaning its somewhere around 1.1ohms. good news is it\n means my bed heats up slightly faster!\n \n \n but seeming as your transistor blew I imagine the polyfuse is ok,\n watch out though you may find it slowly does kick in when the MOSFET\n works properly because if its near its tripping point it can gently\n heat up and stop the current.\n\n\nA good test procedure - this is probably the most relevant check for your case\n\n\n That's not the way it's wired. Check the schematic.\n \n 12V input on RAMPS -- fuse -- (PS1) + output to BED\n \n GND -- Source[MOSFET]Drain -- (PS2) - output to BED D8\n ---------------- Gate\n \n As you can see, the MOSFET is switching the GND connection to the bed.\n There will always be +12V on the + bed terminal whenever power is on\n as long as the fuse is good. There's an LED across the + and - BED\n terminal on RAMPS to indicate voltage. If that LED is turning on when\n you turn the heated bed on from the host software, then the MOSFET is\n good. If it's not coming on, they you might have a bad MOSFET or your\n +12V supply is bad. Verify using a voltmeter across the bed terminals and across the 12V bed supply input in RAMPS.\n \n The Prusa heated bed PCB should have a resistance around 1.1 ohm.\n\n\n\n\nThen there are some tests for the fuses. Looking at fuse F2 (the main culprit, which protects the 12V2 circuit):\n\n\n You haven't mentioned checking the fuse yet. You should make sure that\n it's not blown. If RAMPS is still wired to the 12V power supply for\n the bed, you can check this easily witn a voltmeter between the + bed\n terminal and the ground wire from your power supply (any of the -\n terminal between the power supply and RAMPS). You should read 12V if\n the fuse is still good. If not, then the fuse is probably blown. If\n the fuse is good, then it's a problem with the MOSFET.\n \n You should visually check the solder pads for the MOSFET to make sure\n that all the 3 pins are still soldered well. The chip can get hot\n enough to melt the solder resulting in broken connection. Then with\n the power on, turn on the bed heater in the host software and measure\n the voltage going into the gate pin of the MOSFET. That should be the\n outside pin on the same side of the MOSFET as the + D8 terminal. You\n should see TTL voltage there (probably close to 5V). If you do, then\n it confirms that the MOSFET is bad.\n \n BTW, 1.5 ohm is probably too high for the bed resistance. You need to\n subtract the resistance that you measure when you touch your\n multimeter leads together. There could easily be 0.4 ohms there.\n\n\nand\n\n\n As far as checking the fuse, another way would be to turn off all the 12V power to RAMPS and check for continuity between the + bed power supply input and the + bed output on RAMPS. If the fuse is still good, this should be a short (near 0 ohms). If you disconnect the + lead to the bed, then this would be more accurate.\n\n\nFor fuse F1, you can do the following, although it is extremely unlikely that this has blown as the rest of the circuit is working from the 12V circuit: \n\n\n There's also a separate fuse for the other 12V supply input to RAMPS that powers the rest of the controller, including the AT Mega. You should check that too in a similar way. With all the power off, measure the resistance between the leads of F1 on RAMPS. You can also double check the resistance on F2 (bed 12V fuse) right next to it.\n\n\n\n\nThat should give you something to get started on. Without knowing more details, it's hard to be more precise.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7667,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lemmy,1.726248027126092,4.507430220259686,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,RAMPS board - no power to heatbed,\"I'm setting up my first 3D Printer, a Prusa i3 MK2 clone. \nWhen I try to heat the bed, nothing happens. Then Marlin throws this error after a while: \n\nBed Heating Failed\nPRINTER HALTED\nPlease reset\n\n\nIn Pronterface I see this in the console:\n\nError:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: bed\n[ERROR] Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: bed\n\nError:Printer halted. kill() called!\n[ERROR] Error:Printer halted. kill() called!\n\n\nThere is 0 voltage across D8 on the Ramps board, where it is connected. When I heat up the hotend, on the other hand, which is connected to D10, I see 12V across the board's D10 terminals.\n\nThe bed is MK42 type.\n\nMy axes, extruder hotend and fans are working OK. \n\nI previously burned out the 5 V regulator on my Arduino Mega by misconnecting one of the end stops. I replaced the regulator on the board and the 5 V supply seems to be working OK again. However I wondered if I might have damaged the board in some other respect? Or is there a config setting in Marlin I should change?\n\",Lemmy,\"The problem was that one of the pins on the Ramps board power supply header was not soldered. The manufacturer had omitted to solder one of the pins, so there was no power to D8. Fixed by soldering the pin in place.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n8307,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lemmy,1.0891412423578797,2.8245194970758165,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Magnetic heatbed options - can I trim these to size?,\"I'm looking at options for removable heatbed surfaces for my Prusa Mk2 clone, which has a MK42 bed, 250x210mm\n\nI have a removable spring steel plate at the moment, but it is not dependably flat - there are often issues with patchy filament adhesion or oversquashing, as it has bumps in it.\n\nI'm looking at a magnetic solution instead.\n\nDoes anyone have experience of this type of stick-on magnetic surface? \n\n\nAny drawbacks?\nCan I trim it to size? I can't see any which are 250 x 210\n\n\",Trish,\"Adhesion and sizing\n\nFirst of all, the product you link is very likely a BuildTak clone or a similar product. My Ender 3 came with a similar one and I have changed to a different one after I ripped it off accidentally to mount a similar one. I have yet to find a sheet of this material that you can't cut to size, as it is pretty much only a polymer with a strong tape on one side and a rough surface on the other. So trimming is not a problem at all.\n\nMounting\n\nTo mount your new surface, you need to get a surface onto your heatbed that has\n\n\ngood contact on all the area\nsecurely holds the bed in place\nis as flat as possible\n\n\nSo you surely want to get a metal sheet that is as flat as possible to mount your surface on. If your bed is heated, your mounting method needs to transfer the heat as good as possible, so a direct contact to the heated bed would be good. This, however, rules out most thin magnets, as these magnet sheets demagnetize under heat, limiting the usability for higher temperature materials, for example, ABS. The original Prusa uses a spring steel bed and high-temperature magnets embedded in the heating platform to work around this. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7671,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Emile D.,1.726248027126092,3.5800550457398437,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Calibration improvement of the Prusa i3,\"I recently got myself a Prusa i3, that I needed to assemble and adjust myself. As expected, the first prints was of quite poor quality. After better adjustment, I improved a bit the print, but I am not quite there yet. I was hoping to get some advice on how to improve the print based on few pictures of the 3DBenchy boat I printed.\n\nThe most annoying point, on the following image, is the dent that I have in the hull, on the front of the boat. And one layer appears to be missing or close. And I have another one just like it in the top cabin.\nI also think that my specific settings on the first layers shouldn't be there, because they don't improve anything, but that is another topic.\n\n\n\nAlso, when I look on the top, I have a lot of filament strings getting here and there, the path of the tip of the printer is quite visible on the roof and floor, the steering wheel is not to clear, etc.\n\n\nAlso, at the end of the boat, I am supposed to have some letters, but I cannot read them because of the poor definition of the print...\n\nHow can I improve the quality of the print? What settings should be looked at?\n\nThe material used for printing is PLA. The hotend temperature was set to 215 °C for the first layer, 210 °C for the rest. The bed at 65 °C for the first, then 60 °C.\nThe setting in Slic3r for the fan is between 35% to 100%. If I understand the rule correctly, under 5 sec for a layer, it is 100%, then it decreases proportionally up to 35% if the layer is done in 60 sec. And off otherwise.\n\nThe diameter of the filament is set to 1.75, with a nozzle of 0.4 mm. I wonder if I should put it to 0.375 mm.\n\nI otherwise think that it is a genuine prusa, but clearly not from the first iteration. I don't have an arduino on it, but the makerbase chip. (That comes from a kit I bought online.) I would wait to be a bit more confident before attempting any modifications.\n\nThe speed for perimeters is 60 mm/s, 30 mm/s for external perimeters. Infill 80 mm/s. Bridges 60 mm/s. Support material 60 mm/s. Non print move: 130 mm/s. There are a couple of other print speed, but I don't think they are that relevant for the case.\n\nAfter modifications of temperature and cooling, following the answers, I got the following print:\n(Nozzle 200 °C, fan at 50 %)\n\n\n\nWeirdly, it was like the PLA got burned here and there, which was not the case at hotter temperature... But at least, the edges are sharper, and the writings are easier to read! I will try to lower a bit more the temperature, but I would need to fight a bit with my extruder motor, which seems to have hard time pushing the PLA when the temperature is too low.\n\nI tested at an even lower temperature: 190 °C. The result is not pretty, the layer were not sticking to each other. And even at 195 °C, some layer don't attach.\n\n\nI tried again at 200 °C, but with lower peripheral printing speed. It did help! I can feel the progress.\n\n\nHowever, I still have a small dent. And on the following picture, we can clearly see that there are sometimes molten half-burned PLA dripping. And there are still strings remaining between the places.\n\n\nThe nozzle was cleaned just before this print.\n\",0scar,\"Your hotend temperature is too high and/or too less part cooling. The part cooling is very important to solidify the hot fluid filament in time to have a solid fundament for the next layer. PLA has a reasonably low glass temperature (at this point the filament is weak and mealable/flexible, at about 60 °C), if the part is not cooled properly, the part temperature can be over the glass temperature when printing the next layer and will distort the previous and current layer.\n\nI print PLA at a maximum temperature of 200 °C (for my thermistor reading).\n\nA combination or a single of these parameters not being the correct value will cause the dent at the front and the stringing and letters to be faded as the filament is not cooled properly and deforms the previous and current layer, this easily shows up in overhangs like at the bow of your print. \n\nTry to lower the hotend temperature by 5 °C per next calibration print (or start at 200 °C and work down from there) and increase the part cooling a little if possible (35 % to 50 %). The build plate generally does not need to be 5 °C higher for the first layer nor do you need an extra 5 °C for the hotend, PLA is not that difficult to print.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n8040,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Emile D.,0.0,3.5228313775130022,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Print parts fail mid-print,\"I am trying to understand what could cause a misprint after several layers. It acts as if the extruder head bump to the PLA after a while. Thus moving the parts and then, it fails because it is not printing at the right location anymore.\n\n\nThe expected result, for one \"\"pyramid\"\" is the following:\n\nThe whole model is the cube gear:\n\n\nI checked the extruder multiplier coefficient parameter. The width of the filament is ok: 1.75 mm. The Y axis seems to be properly calibrated, and if it was the problem, I would expect it to fail before anyway. But I don't have any idea of what could cause that aside from that. And the problem seems to general and \"\"quite\"\" repeatable based on this print and some others (I do not guarantee the same height of failure, but...).\n\nI got a better result by printing layers by 0.3 mm with a 0.4 mm nozzle. But this failed print was with a 0.2 mm layer.\n\nMy configuration: I have a prusa i3, with a bowden extruder. It has a slight multiplication of the extruder size, because during my calibration, I noticed that not enough material was pushed. I also calibrated my Z axis as carefully as I could. So what could cause the problem?\n\nDuring my prints, I also have a problem of small strings everywhere, that I didn't manage to solve completely with the hotend temperature, nor the withdrawal parameter set to 2 mm. And I don't have a fan blowing at the end object (I plan to add one eventually). And the bridge speed is supposed to go at 60 mm/s and non print move at 100 mm/s, thus fast enough I think to avoid strings.\n\",0scar,\"Your printer basically has 2 problems;\n\n\nstringing, and\nlayer shifting\n\n\nThe second problem is most probably the result of the first issue. Excessive stringing leads to a lot of material outside the print object, when this clutters, the nozzle could get caught up and cause hindering of movement of a certain axis to result in a shifted layer print as the printer is not aware of this shift, it will continue the print from the shifted reference point.\n\nFrom your second experiment you see that a larger layer height does not show excessive stringing and the print has therefore not been hindered by caught-up material to finish the product without layer shifting.\n\nIt is key to solve the stringing issue; stringing is the result of filament being extruded by pressure build-up in the nozzle that \"\"leaks\"\" out of the nozzle on travel movement of the print head. You will probably not see this happening when you print a single product; it is typically seen when printing multiple objects on the build plate. This usually implies that the printer need to be properly tuned. It is up to you to find the correct settings; test print objects, like calibration prints, help you find these correct settings.\n\nImportant print parameters to fight stringing are:\n\n\nretraction, (do you retract enough prior to movement?)\ncoasting, (do you stop in time with extruding to make use of the overpressure in the nozzle?)\ntravel speed, (do you move fast enough to minimize the amount of filament leaking out?)\nprint temperature, (do you print at a temperature where the filament doesn't get too fluid?)\nprint part cooling, (do you have sufficient cooling?)\n\n\nOnce you optimized this, the stringing should be gone and the change of layer shifting should have reduced.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8083,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Emile D.,1.0891412423578797,3.8364869557858974,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Prusa i3 improvement - cooling fan,\"I wanted to add a cooling fan to my Prusa i3. The board used by this printer is an MKS GEN L v1.0, such as this one:\n\n\n\nThe cooling fan plug seems to be the white one on the top left corner, just below the step motor drivers. I plug a working 5 V DC fan, but it is not rotating. What could be the cause? The cooling fan has been enabled permanently using Slic3r to generate the G-code I am printing.\n\nThe board is powered by a 12 V power supply.\n\nAre there some modifications to do on the embedded software side?\n\",0scar,\"The MKS GEN L v1.0 is a board that according to the information found on the web operates to run on a voltage between 12 - 24 V, this means that all peripherals on the board should match this voltage. A 5 V fan should therefore not be connected.\n\nFirst, you need to establish that you are using the correct fan port on the board.\n\nWhich port to use?\n\nIf you take a closer look at the board layout you will find that the top fan connector cannot be controlled, it is a fixed voltage power supply of 12 - 24 V (so basically depending on the power that is supplied to the board).\n\nThis can be seen from the board layout:\n\n\nOr zoomed in on the top left corner:\n\n\nNote that no pin number is given, this means that it is a constant power supply fan header. A 5 V fan attaching to this port does not seem to be a good solution, it can easily burn out the fan electronics. This fan should match the voltage of the power supply you use, so when powered by a 12 V power supply, attach a 12 V fan or a 24 V fan when the board is powered by 24 V.\n\nAs said, this fan port is not controlled by PWM and can therefore not be scheduled from within your slicer, however, it makes an excellent fan for cooling the cold end of the nozzle assembly. \n\nTo schedule a fan for print part cooling through the slicer you need to attach the fan to the other fan header below the X stepper driver on the left, if you look closely to the schematics, you see that that is a fan that can be scheduled using the digital pin D9. \n\n\n\nNote that this fan also operates at the voltage specified by your power supply; a 5 V fan should not be connected to this port either!\n\nThe solution to your problem is to buy a fan of the correct voltage and connect it to the correct fan header.\n\nAs you have tried connecting a fan to the lower fan port, and conclude that the fan has never rotated but still rotates when supplied with a correct voltage, you need to ask yourself if this port is:\n\n\nconfigured correctly in the firmware, or\nnot broken.\n\n\nNow that you know where to connect the fan for print part cooling, connect a fan that matches the power supply voltage.\n\nWhy is the fan not working?\n\nThe microprocessor of the board schedules and reads various ports or pins based on the firmware it runs. This implies that the setup of the firmware is very important in the use of certain ports. It is therefore important to research if this port:\n\n\nwas meant to be used by the printer manufacturer (so enabled in the firmware)\nor board is controlled by which firmware\n\n\nOnce you establish that it is enabled (e.g. the manufacturer describes that the printer has a print part cooling fan), you should try printing a part where you enable the print fan in the slicer software. If not, you need to change the firmware configuration to enable the fan. If this does not work, you should address your attention to why it is not working. A multimeter can be used to read the voltage of the fan MOSFET output or the D9 output. If either one of those doesn't record a voltage, your board or MOSFET are probably broken. To fix this, you could solder an unused pin to the fan MOSFET or a new MOSFET and change the firmware. Another option is to buy a new board and flash a new configuration of a printer firmware onto it.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8634,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Emile D.,1.726248027126092,3.2043470614382206,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Small dent problem,\"Whenever I print, I tend to have a small dent that appears on several of my prints, that are not in the original design. These are not following the layer orientation. \n\nAs far as I notice, nothing blocks the extruder of my prusa-i3. I print with PLA, so not a material where I would expect weird behaviour.\n\n\n\nWhat could cause that problem?\n\",Trish,\"This looks very much like it is the seam between the outer perimeters that is placed one over the other. This can be solved by choosing a different Z-seam alignment. In Ultimatker Cura, the setting is called Z-seam alignment and should be set to random for cylindrical items.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n8751,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Emile D.,1.726248027126092,3.9303843689982543,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,PLA print warping on heated bed,\"I am trying to print the 3 jaw lathe chuck on Thingiverse. This specific piece is the scroll.stl, but it applies on every big piece. The print material is (transparent) PLA, that I print on custom glass bed, which is heated by a regular heated bed at 65 °C. However, my print is warping on the external edges of a solid 2 mm for a 85 mm diameter print.\n\n\n\nI didn't use the cooling fan. And I don't have an enclosure to keep the warmth inside the printing area. The nozzle temperature is around 200 °C.\n\nWhat could be wrong?\nThe printer is a slightly modified Prusa i3 MK2.\n\",Levi Giesbrecht,\"Glass is tricky. Try using a glue stick. It makes the problem getting it off more than keeping it on. Magigoo and Aquanet also come highly recommended for glass. Another thing would be printing with a raft. Raft's stick pretty well, and most prints stick to a raft, and those prints won't lift. A third trick would be using an extrusion multiplier on your first layer only. As far as slicer tricks go, check to see when (if at all) your cooling fans turn on. usually, fans will turn on about 12-15 layer into your print. Any earlier, and they may peel. Bed level, although crucial to have to some degree of accuracy, is somewhat nullified when a raft is used. \n\nHope that helps!\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8751,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Emile D.,1.726248027126092,3.9303843689982543,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,PLA print warping on heated bed,\"I am trying to print the 3 jaw lathe chuck on Thingiverse. This specific piece is the scroll.stl, but it applies on every big piece. The print material is (transparent) PLA, that I print on custom glass bed, which is heated by a regular heated bed at 65 °C. However, my print is warping on the external edges of a solid 2 mm for a 85 mm diameter print.\n\n\n\nI didn't use the cooling fan. And I don't have an enclosure to keep the warmth inside the printing area. The nozzle temperature is around 200 °C.\n\nWhat could be wrong?\nThe printer is a slightly modified Prusa i3 MK2.\n\",Perry Webb,\"Several things I've done to stop warping when it occurred:\n\n\nUse a wider brim.\nIf the brim isn't sticking, use a higher bed temperature for the first layer.\nIf the brim comes up only on one side or warping is only on one side, make sure the bed is level. \nSlowing down the print will keep you from having as long of a strand cooling down. This will lower the contraction force and reduce warping. \nA hotter bed temperature will reduce the temperature difference between the extrusion and the bed, thus reducing the contraction force. \n\n\n200 °C is a good temperature for getting PLA to stick. I've tried lower extrusion temperatures to reduce the temperature difference between the extruder and the bed, but this decreases adhesion to the bed and is counterproductive. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7674,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,JAKE,1.726248027126092,5.011364195774974,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Changing FAN0 to FAN1 in TriGorilla printer board,\"I plugged a new fan into the (TriGorilla v1.4) printer board Fan0 which I found out to be broken. \n\nI'm trying to upgrade the part cooling fan for a bigger one. Unfortunately after plugging in the old one, I realize that the fan is constantly \"\"ON\"\". On other forum someone told me that MOSFET might be shorted from plugging in the broken fan. \n\nThis triggered my question: \"\"Is there any possible way to change the firmware FAN0 to use FAN1 socket?\"\" and: \"\"Would that work for part cooling model fan?\"\"\n\n\n\",0scar,\"Yes you can use another fan port, this requires some editing of the configuration files of the firmware and reflash the firmware.\n\nIf you look at the documentation of the board and an overview of the board layout, you will see that there are 3 PWM controlled FAN ports. The answer is therefore yes, you can use another port (e.g. FAN1 or FAN2) to be used for your broken FAN0 port. The most easy solution is to swap the port numbers in the pins configuration of your firmware, so swap pins 'D9' and 'D7'.\n\n\n\nHow you edit the configuration is depending on the version of the TriGorilla board you have, there is a version 1.3 and a version 1.4.\n\nBasically you need to define the software FAN (0) to be reached at the hardware location Fan1 using pin 7:\n\n#define FAN_PIN 7\n\n\nSubsequently, FAN1 in software needs to points to Fan0 in hardware\n\n#define FAN1_PIN 9\n\n\nIf you changed this, the software will think that the Fan1 port on the board is the software FAN. \n\nIf you are using the v1.4 TriGorilla printer board, the v1,4 specific pin definition is found in pins_TRIGORILLA_14.h. If you look into this file you will see that this is basically a RAMPS board:\n\n#define IS_RAMPS_EFB\n...\n#include \"\"pins_RAMPS.h\"\"\n\n\nSo editing for you need to redirect the pins 7 and 9, but you only have a single active fan (as per #define IS_RAMPS_EFB)! Luckily we can forget about the second fan as you want to replace the first by the second.\n\nIn pins_RAMPS.h you will find:\n\n#ifndef RAMPS_D9_PIN\n #define RAMPS_D9_PIN 9\n#endif\n\n\nNote that it is wise not to edit this latter file, instead edit your copy of pins_TRIGORILLA_14.h to include assigning of the pin 7 to the Fan1 header as FAN in the firmware.\n\nIf you look closely at the assigning of the RAMPS_D9_PIN pin, it says: #ifndef; so if it has been assigned previously, do not override the value.\n\nNow edit the pins_TRIGORILLA_14.h file to include:\n\n// Comment out this line:\n//#define FAN_PIN 9\n// And enter this beneath that line\n#define RAMPS_D9_PIN 7\n\n\nor\n\n#define FAN_PIN 7\n// this bypasses setting of the RAMPS_D9_PIN constant\n\n\nFrom this point on, if the software addresses scheduling of the FAN port, the pin 7 schedules the MOSFET attached to the Fan1 header.\n\n\n\nBasically, the above procedure describes how one directs hardware ports by changing the addressing in the firmware configuration.\n\nIf this does not work, there might be more things broken on your board.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n7677,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,E Doe,2.1782824847157594,2.634955868424173,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,PVA support with small tolerances,\"I am at the moment designing some in place mechanical parts. Something like two cylinders that rotate with respect to each other. I need in my design some overhangs that cannot be printed and I was thinking of using soluble supports to be able to print these overhangs. I am afraid that by using something like PVA the PVA will end up between the two parts and glue the together. \n\nDoes anyone have any experience with this? Can something be done about this apart from 'not using PVA'?\n\nEdit:\n\nHere is an (minimal) example of an object I would be worried about. The blue and red cylinders are supposed to turn around each other and there is a cutout in the blue cylinder that will need support (the bridge is to long to print without support).\n\n\n\",fred_dot_u,\"You've not stated this, but one must presume that you have a dual or multi-material extruder equipped printer.\n\nBecause PVA dissolves in water, the supports will be eroded on contact when the part is immersed. As the PVA dissolves, it increases the concentration of PVA in the water, but only slightly. You would have to agitate the water, change it if you feel it is becoming too concentrated. At some point, you should be able to rotate the cylinders, creating more turbulence, causing more PVA to dissolve into the water.\n\nIf you are determined enough, you can cause all of the PVA to dissolve, followed by a rinse with clean water. This would remove any residual PVA.\n\nThe water containing the dissolved PVA is somewhat sticky, but would not glue parts together if the parts were thoroughly rinsed. It's not out of the question to use an ultrasonic cleaner with plain water to provide sufficient turbulence, again changing the water periodically to keep the concentration low.\n\nIf you use an ultrasonic cleaner, test a sample of your print filament to determine if the heat generated will soften the plastic. I've had success with PVA to the extent that I have not had to use an ultrasonic cleaner to remove it.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n7920,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,E Doe,2.8153892694839717,3.846478051241465,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.929104701733314,2.771436658049143,Heatercartridge bolt stuck,\"After a brownout a print failed and it got the whole hotend covered in PLA. I am now in the process of replacing some parts on the hotend (one of the thermistor legs broke of) and also wanted to take the heater cartridge out. The problem is that the bolt that locks the heater cartridge is stuck and I am now afraid to strip the head.\n\nIs there a trick to remove the bolt with the smallest probability of stripping the head? Is it better to apply heat or not? Should I soak it in Acetone or some other solvent? etc.\n\",Trish,\"Don't Panic!\n\nFirst of all, a printhead caked in PLA is usually not a death sentence, it is often a temporary setback. Let's start in steps!\n\nStep 1: remove the extruder\n\nWe want to work on the hotend, so we remove the extruder feed first. For direct drive, we unload it, then remove it depending on your printer, so the cooling of the hotend remains. For a Bowden, unload and, if possible, remove the Bowden tube from the cooling block. If not disconnect it from the extruder.\n\nStep 2: remove from the carriage\n\nNow that we have the whole hotend assembly bared, we remove it from the carriage. Usually, it is 2 to 3 bolts, more if the cooling solution is mounted separately and has to be removed to access it.\n\nStep 3: remove the cool-end\n\nIf you can, remove the cooling fins - we want to have the heatbreak to hold on to.\n\nStep 4: Clamp it up\n\nTake a fire-proof surface (ceramic tile!) and put down the hotend. Rig it up that it can't jump away, best with a small vise. Don't bend the cables!\n\nStep 5: Free the thermosensor\n\nLet's start to clean! If your cartridge still works, get 12V onto the heater and let the stuff melt a little. Use pliers and a scraping tool to clean the thermistor cartridge.\n\nAs you have no heat control only heat in short bursts to prevent fire and destroying the cartridge too. \n\nAs an alternative and if you can't get the cartridge to work, use a hot air gun or a hot-air soldering station. A soldering iron with a broad tip also works well to scrape off the plastic with controlled heat an as a scraper to remove large chunks.\nIf you use an external heat source, free the heater cartridge first and remove it, hoping that it is not also dead.\n\nAs soon as you can, get the thermosensor out. If you run on the heater cartridge, install a fresh Thermosensor, even into the goopy heater block, and wire it to the board to regain temperature control and use the board to provide the power.\n\nStep 6: Finish cleaning\n\nI usually clean up the final stretch (and as far as I can: all steps) under board controlled heat:\n\nMake sure that heater cartridge and thermosensor are installed well and working. Set the hotend to 170 to 180°C and do the last cleaning under the use of regulated temperatre.\n\nStep 7: Do steps 1 to 4 in reverse order.\n\nReassemble, following the steps backwards.\n\nStep 8: Hot Tighten!\n\nHeat the assembled hotend to 240°C, then tighten the nozzle against the heatbreak to ensure tightness. Let cool, done.\n\nAlternative\n\nReplacement/Upgrade!\n\nOne could go down to step 3 and replace the hotend assembly (Heaterblock, Thermosensor, heatbreak, nozzle) with fresh parts and reassemble. This is much more expensive than reusing but cleaner and faster - if you need to print now, you might want to keep one hotend assembly on hand as spare and clean the one replaced while the machine runs.\n\nExternal heat sources\n\nAs mentioned, a hot air gun or soldering iron can provide heat to remove the plastic caking. \n\nThe soldering iron has the benefit of doubling as a scraping tool and providing localized heat, allowing to possibly free the thermosensor without unsoldering anything in it, and it won't melt the heater block. \n\nA heat gun provides gentle, overall heating of the beater block, but needs extra care where the hot air is going - it can easily char wood and might remove the solder from the heater cartridge. \n\nA gas torch might be used to burn off any residue on a totally stripped heater block, but it also would be able to melt and deform an aluminium heater block! Do not use it on a still assembled heater block, or it will melt any solder in the heater cartridge and destroy it.\n\nIn any case, working on a fireproof surface is mandatory!\n\nChemically cleaning (for non-PLA)\n\nPLA can be removed chemically, but the solvents are rather nasty and some take quite some time to work. Very toxic dichloromethane was used to make a solution of PLA to create thin layers used in this paper, and most other solvents the study mentions are at least equally nasty. The available working options - ethyl acetate and propylene carbonate - have high price tags associated with them. So chemically cleaning PLA from cheap nozzles is not an economically viable option. However, it is a viable option to use acetone if you have your hotend caked in ABS. \n\",3.367452517504837,2.0769199823829045\n7920,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,E Doe,2.8153892694839717,3.846478051241465,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.929104701733314,2.771436658049143,Heatercartridge bolt stuck,\"After a brownout a print failed and it got the whole hotend covered in PLA. I am now in the process of replacing some parts on the hotend (one of the thermistor legs broke of) and also wanted to take the heater cartridge out. The problem is that the bolt that locks the heater cartridge is stuck and I am now afraid to strip the head.\n\nIs there a trick to remove the bolt with the smallest probability of stripping the head? Is it better to apply heat or not? Should I soak it in Acetone or some other solvent? etc.\n\",0scar,\"Acetone will not dissolve PLA, there are other nasty solvents that do that, but it is not recommended to go that way.\n\nYou could apply 12 V (if the cartridge is 12 V that is) directly. As the thermistor does not work, you cannot use the printer board. You should take caution not to heat it too far or too hot, but from your experience with your own machine you should know approximately how long it takes to heat up the hotend to working temperature. E.g. start with a minute and try to pry off the lump of plastic with pliers. If you can reach the bolt/worm screw, try heating until you are able to insert the hex key or screw driver.\n\nThis video from Josef Prusa shows exactly what you need to do what is described above. The only difference is that you need to connect the heater element directly to the power supply as your thermistor is broken. So don't leave it on too long or you will bake the filament to carbonization, which is much harder to remove. Try to cycle it on/off.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n9865,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,E Doe,2.8153892694839717,3.9604245843011654,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.3995491493854546,Uniform squishy infill,\"I try to print a stamp with flexible filaments. The problem I encounter is that the filament is flexible, but not soft. This leads to small differences in height to parts of the stamp not working.\n\nOne solution would be to add a small 'cushion' to add some squishyness to the stamp. I designed the stamp and the 'cushion' but now the question arises: \n\"\"Which infill will provide the best uniform squishyness (in one axis)?\"\"\n\nI did a test with cubic infill of Cura, and although it becomes quite squishy, some parts are squishier than other parts of the block.\n\nTLDR; Trying to print a squishy cube, where in one axis all areas of the cube have the same squishyness.\n\",0scar,\"As the rubber stamp needs to be soft in one axis for the whole area, you could use an infill that causes the same softness in all directions, but is sliced as such that the stamp experiences the same softness. Alternatively you can use the specific infill types for flexibility, but beware of the orientation:\n\n\nConcentric\nCross\nCross 3D \n\n\nFirst, to get the same softness in each direction you need to use an infill pattern that has similar/uniform properties (isotropic) in all dimensions. \n\nIt is suggested to look into the infill type called \"\"gyroid\"\" (see question What are the advantages of gyroid infill?). \n\nThis type of infill is described as:\n\n\n Gyroid infill is one of the strongest infill types for a given weight, has isotropic properties, and prints relatively fast with reduced material use and a fully connected part interior. \n\n\nSecond, since the stamp has relief, slicing the part may cause different infill height. You could look into Different infill in the same part to e.g. get a solid infill for under the relief to get a uniform infill for the \"\"cushion\"\".\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n9865,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,E Doe,2.8153892694839717,3.9604245843011654,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.3995491493854546,Uniform squishy infill,\"I try to print a stamp with flexible filaments. The problem I encounter is that the filament is flexible, but not soft. This leads to small differences in height to parts of the stamp not working.\n\nOne solution would be to add a small 'cushion' to add some squishyness to the stamp. I designed the stamp and the 'cushion' but now the question arises: \n\"\"Which infill will provide the best uniform squishyness (in one axis)?\"\"\n\nI did a test with cubic infill of Cura, and although it becomes quite squishy, some parts are squishier than other parts of the block.\n\nTLDR; Trying to print a squishy cube, where in one axis all areas of the cube have the same squishyness.\n\",Dan Hulme,\"Sinusoidal infill provides great squishiness in the infill direction, but you'll still have the problem that where the infill meets the perimeter wall, it'll be less squishy than where the perimeter wall isn't touching any infill. You can reduce this effect by using a stiffer filament for that wall (if you can print with multiple filaments), by adding more perimeters, and by reducing the gap between infills (i.e. increasing the infill density). You can even explicitly design an extra-thick wall on the face that takes the pressure (the engraved face of the stamp), and then a section behind that with the squishy infill.\n\nTBH, I'm not sure that flexible filament is really what you need for a stamp. Soft materials are commonly used for traditional stamp-making more because they're easy to etch than because the stamping works better that way. Print-making uses wooden or metal plates (the equivalent to the stamp) and produces better, more repeatable images than rubber stamps. When you're printing a stamp, you don't need to etch it, so the softness of rubber isn't an advantage for you. My outsider recommendation would be to try using a normal, rigid filament, and sand the surface to the smoothness you need. If you print with the stamp face on the bed, and your first-layer quality is really good on a smooth build plate, you can probably get better results without sanding.\n\",0.0,0.0\n7683,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Will Barrows,1.726248027126092,5.536472797456578,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"Flashforge Adventurer 3 Filament feeder loud thumping noise, not enough filament extruded\",\"My Flashforge Adventurer 3 is not printing properly. Filament feeder makes repetitive loud thumping noise and not enough filament is extruded. Resulting print (if completed) is not solid.\n\nResults vary with filament. Flashforge brand (red) PLA works best. Any other filament fails completely unless I print at High quality, with head temperature at 235 degrees. Nozzle has been un-clogged repeatedly, but right from the start, when feeding filament in, it does not flow through properly. \n\nI had used the included tool to clear blockages in the extruder several times before now, but after posting this question I tried again. Ordinary use of the tool made no difference. So I applied more force, and, pushed filament through by hand directly into the extruder and used a pin to try to clear the extruder. It now appears to be working adequately Not perfectly. I am able to print with default settings. It still thumps -or ticks- a bit. I am alarmed at the amount of force I had to use to clear the extruder blockage. \n\",DaveA,\"My Flashforge Adventurer 3 showed similar symptoms at the start of a print. I found that the z-axis was out of calibration, causing the print head to touch the platform, meaning that the filament could not extrude. The solution was to calibrate by slipping a piece of paper under the extruder and adjusting the z-offset until it was just touching. Worked fine after that. Hope this helps.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7683,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Will Barrows,1.726248027126092,5.536472797456578,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"Flashforge Adventurer 3 Filament feeder loud thumping noise, not enough filament extruded\",\"My Flashforge Adventurer 3 is not printing properly. Filament feeder makes repetitive loud thumping noise and not enough filament is extruded. Resulting print (if completed) is not solid.\n\nResults vary with filament. Flashforge brand (red) PLA works best. Any other filament fails completely unless I print at High quality, with head temperature at 235 degrees. Nozzle has been un-clogged repeatedly, but right from the start, when feeding filament in, it does not flow through properly. \n\nI had used the included tool to clear blockages in the extruder several times before now, but after posting this question I tried again. Ordinary use of the tool made no difference. So I applied more force, and, pushed filament through by hand directly into the extruder and used a pin to try to clear the extruder. It now appears to be working adequately Not perfectly. I am able to print with default settings. It still thumps -or ticks- a bit. I am alarmed at the amount of force I had to use to clear the extruder blockage. \n\",Will Barrows,\"Advice from another source suggested thoroughly cleaning the feed gear on the bowden extruder. When I looked closely there were plastic flakes all over the mechanism. I used compressed air and a brush to clean it. \nI also discovered expert mode in the FlashPrint software, which enabled me to slow down the speed at which fill is laid down.\nNow I have good printing results with any filament.\nI guess regular preventative maintenance will keep things going.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7686,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,David Ramiro,2.1782824847157594,3.887384510439058,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Heatbed PID vs Bang-Bang - which one is more stressing on components?,\"I recently switched from Bang-Bang to PID controlled bed heating. The stock firmware pulsed On/Off with about 5 seconds each cycle. Now with PID, my bed keeps its temperature much more stable, the frequency is around 7Hz. \n\nAlthough the total amount of energy used for heating should be less now since the heating is more efficient and doesn't waste energy by cooling down, I am a bit concerned of the fast pulsing of the rather high amperage (around 13 Amps in my case).\n\nSo I was wondering, do the faster cycles cause more stress on the components (I am thinking MOSFET on the board and components inside the PSU) or is this negligible? I am particularly curious since this is a rather low budget printer (Anycubic i3 Mega, $350 printer with a generic unbranded PSU) and I don't want to push its limits too much.\n\nThe only thing I can observe is a very faint noise with the same frequency as the pulses. Might have been the same on 5 second cycles, I was just not paying attention to it back then.\n\nI'd be very glad if somebody could chime in on this.\n\nThanks in advance.\n\",BanksySan,\"The frequency of the cycle shouldn't affect the efficiency as such, however more might be lost due to physical properties. Fast should cause less stress on the printed part, unless it hits a resonance frequency, which it unlikely.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n7692,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Peter Lee,1.0891412423578797,5.004549889057002,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Stepper motor for CR10-S5 Y-axis,\"I need to replace this stepper motor with the following product identification:\n\n\n\nIt’s a Y-axis for CR10-S5 and labeled as JD42HS60-1500A-02F. What type of stepper motor is this?\n\",Trish,\"This is a NEMA 17 motor. It is virtually identical to the NEMA 17 motors Creality uses in most of their 12V products.\n\nIn contrast to other companies, Creality uses a different connector with a flat ribbon cable instead of color-coded wires.\n\nThe upper line of the label identifies it more clearly: \n\n\nJD Identifies the factory/manufacturer\n42 identifies the faceplate size as 42mm square, so a NEMA17\nHS identifies how the holes are shaped\n60 is the height of the motor as 60 mm.\n1500 identifies how much power is OK for it, here: 1500mA = 1.5A\nA specifies our motor has a maximum safe temperature of 104°C\n- gives us no voltage for this motor, but as you have a CR10, it should be 12V\n02F is supposed to tell us something about the wiring and steps per rotation, but I can't find out what.\n\n\nSide Note: the Creality Ender3 uses 34mm high stepper motors.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7699,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,brocket12,1.726248027126092,6.186875301961989,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,How to fix Y layer shift on Creality Ender 3?,\"While printing a simple model, my printer starts to layer-shift the build in a direction suddenly. I used the default setting for ultimaker Cura 3.4.1. It has done this same thing for multiple different prints. I would guess it is the software. \n\nHow do I fix the issue?\n\n\n\",Trish,\"You have a case of layer shift. Layer shifts happened to me in 3 ways:\n\n\nThe movement of the axis is hindered. Check if all cables run freely and without any chance to catch! improper cable chains can cause binding and stop the printhead or bed in movement and thus induce a shift.\nThe acceleration might be too fast. Shift the acceleration of the printer movements down a notch. Don't print faster than ~60 to keep the acceleration in check, as the printer will try to reach the top speed as fast as possible, thus limiting top speed also limits acceleration.\nThe model might be broken. Re-slice the model just in case.\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7699,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,brocket12,1.726248027126092,6.186875301961989,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,How to fix Y layer shift on Creality Ender 3?,\"While printing a simple model, my printer starts to layer-shift the build in a direction suddenly. I used the default setting for ultimaker Cura 3.4.1. It has done this same thing for multiple different prints. I would guess it is the software. \n\nHow do I fix the issue?\n\n\n\",0scar,\"In addition to the other answer to complete the overview, your stepper motor may not get enough power and misses steps, increasing the current by adjusting the stepper driver voltage could also solve the issue (when the current is too low that is! never just increase this to try out, you could damage the stepper, the drivers or the board, so beware).\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7710,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lux Claridge,1.0891412423578797,2.5072605669755292,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Ambient Temperature Range for Printer Storage/Usage,\"I've just joined the 3D Printing world and am patiently waiting for my printer to come in next week. I've been thinking about keeping my printer in the garage so that it stays out of the way of every day life. \n\nSince I am in the Midwest, I was wondering if this is the best plan. Is it okay to store and use my printer when the ambient temperature can get as low as 10 °F (about -12 °C) and as high as 120 °F (about 50 °C)? Would the cold affect my prints substantially, mainly using PLA, PETG and some TPU? Would larger prints, spanning days, affect the filament on the spool?\n\nNote that I am solely talking about the printer. I plan on keeping the filaments inside the house so they won't be bothered by the temp extremes.\n\nMy google searches came up with nothing and I didn't find anything on the supplier from which I purchased my printer. I doubt that it matters, but in case it does, my printer is the Creality CR-10S\n\",Trish,\"Printers are electrical machines. They don't like water, so they also don't like condensation in them. If you can keep your garage dry and prevent a sheet of metal inside it from rusting, then your printer might survive the problems the shifting temperatures induce by condensing water vapor on the electronics.\n\nAnother thing to consider is, that at negative degrees Celsius, your printer might trigger a mintemp error, as the minimum temperature allowable is usually defined as 0 °C or higher. On the other hand, low temperatures might allow to bridge further than other days, as the cold air absorbs the heat from the prints faster. It could cause other problems like clogging or under extrusion due to low temperature though. \n\nHigh summer temperatures might impact the print quality, causing quite some extra sagging.\n\nThe Filament on the machine in a garage might be impacted because of the humidity changes, but might be mitigated with a drybox.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n7733,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lux Claridge,1.726248027126092,2.4894835185571664,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Moving Extruder Gear Assembly,\"So I am getting a Creality CR-10S which has a similar print frame with a lot of other printers. Eventually I'm sure I will want to print using flexible materials, but the bowden system is not optimal since you're basically trying to push cooked spaghetti through a tube. I could replace the bowden with a direct drive but that can be expensive (and potentially shave off 15 mm from one of my axes). Not to mention that the print head is now heavier which can affect print speeds and quality.\n\nThat's when I thought about moving the extruder gear and motor from the side of my printer to the top. The tube then goes down the Z axis so the flexible filaments are pulled by gravity and controlled by the gear instead of just being pushed by the gear. (Please refer to my wonderful sketch)\n\n\n\nI can't be the only one to think of this, but I've only seen one website that has talked about this issue and thinks that the solution is a second gantry to follow the hot end. If you're interested, here's the link.\n\nAre there any potential issues with this new setup? Though I would mount the servo above the cross beam instead of to the side so that there's full range of motion along the z axis. (sadly that thought came to me AFTER making the picture in paint)\n\",Trish,\"Hanging up the Bowden system won't fix the problems with printing flexible filament: the filament will still press into the bends of the tube and thus lead to under extrusion. Another issue is, that the flexible filament can compress - and the longer way it has to the melt-zone, the more filament it can \"\"store\"\" on the way to it. These bunched up zones will release suddenly, resulting in pulses of high output and between those under extrusion.\n\nDirect drive (like in a Prusa i3) is pretty much the only way to reliably print flexible materials. You could, with some engineering, move your existing motor to the carriage and turn your Bowden into a direct drive.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7907,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lux Claridge,1.726248027126092,4.548642676233592,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Setting up a brim/raft for only a portion of the overall print,\"I'm trying to build an assembly with one larger part (about 50 mm x 50 mm), two small parts (about 10 mm x 5 mm) each, and one part that starts with two 2 mm x 2 mm squares that eventually bridge into a sort of flap. The larger part has decent adhesion for a couple of layers, but the small parts are slipping off the table right away and the nozzle drags them onto the large part since it's the last part being printed in the group, resulting in some stringing.\n\nMy bed is adequately leveled and can print larger models well so my suspicion is that the small parts are too small for good bed adhesion and need a brim or a raft to increase the surface area. Is this correct? If so, is there a way in Cura to add a brim or raft to the small parts and not the large part? Ideally I would print all pieces at once instead of the large part separate since I will be doing batches of these assemblies in the future.\n\nI'm using Ultimaker Cura 3.6, printing with PLA filament set to 200 °C at nozzle and 60 °C on the bed.\n\",0scar,\"No, there are no options available to set the brim to some of the parts in Ultimaker Cura.\n\nThe image below shows the Ultimaker Cura interface for \"\"per model\"\" settings, basically different settings with respect to the other models. As can be seen, you cannot expand the Build Plate Adhesion (it already shows the arrow downwards, so expanded):\n\n\n\nYou could however change the smaller model to include the brim in your design, or add so-called \"\"Mouse Ears\"\".\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n7918,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lux Claridge,2.8153892694839717,5.367888096617545,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.104288080884247,Bed too close to nozzle?,\"I've been having some bed adhesion problems that I have been trying to solve by leveling the bed. I think that it's pretty level now but when I start a print the lines seem pretty flat. Is this true? I used a feeler gauge to have a 0.2 mm gap between the bed and nozzle, but the center feels as though there's more space, despite the tape (ie I didn't feel any resistance when leveling the center) so I'm not sure if the plastic is too squished or not.\n\n\n\n\nI am printing PLA with 210 °C at Nozzle and 60 °C on bed. I also used a 130% extrusion factor for the first layer on a Creality CR-10S. It did come without a black print surface but with a glass sheet and a roll of painters tape instead, so I opted for Blue-tape.\n\nAlso, I see some stringing, which seems to happen with skirts and brims (this is my first brim) and a bit of under extrusion in the center. But those are probably concerns fit for a separate question.\n\",Trish,\"After clarifying the printer type and specs, I have to go d'accord with 0scar's answer about the bed leveling thickness: try to go down to 0.1 mm.\n\nAbout the bed adhesion I have a couple of pieces of advice though:\n\n\nGo with what works for you (Rule #1: Never change a running system)\nTry out the bare glass bed coated in...\n\n\nGluestick left to dry a little (that is PVA!)\na super thin layer of Wood Glue (also PVA)\nHairspray (also PVA)\n3D-Lac (PVA again)\n\nWhen sticking with tape (pun!), lay it down side by side with no overlap. Wider tape is better.\n\n\ntry different brands of tape, I prefer the rougher surface tapes\n\ndon't fear to use your heatbed! 60°C is the common PLA print bed temperature.\n\n\nif you can, take a thermosensor/thermometer and check what the temperature on top of the glass actually is: you might need to adjust the heater setting up to get a bed surface of 60°C.\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7918,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lux Claridge,2.8153892694839717,5.367888096617545,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.104288080884247,Bed too close to nozzle?,\"I've been having some bed adhesion problems that I have been trying to solve by leveling the bed. I think that it's pretty level now but when I start a print the lines seem pretty flat. Is this true? I used a feeler gauge to have a 0.2 mm gap between the bed and nozzle, but the center feels as though there's more space, despite the tape (ie I didn't feel any resistance when leveling the center) so I'm not sure if the plastic is too squished or not.\n\n\n\n\nI am printing PLA with 210 °C at Nozzle and 60 °C on bed. I also used a 130% extrusion factor for the first layer on a Creality CR-10S. It did come without a black print surface but with a glass sheet and a roll of painters tape instead, so I opted for Blue-tape.\n\nAlso, I see some stringing, which seems to happen with skirts and brims (this is my first brim) and a bit of under extrusion in the center. But those are probably concerns fit for a separate question.\n\",0scar,\"No, the bed does not look too close to the nozzle, it could well be that it is too far from the nozzle. However, the brim looks okay, but the method you follow is questionable. \n\nUsing a feeler gauge of 0.2 mm is larger than the recommended paper method which is in the order of half that value (0.1 mm). You compensate this larger leveling gap with an over-extrusion of 130 %. The preferred method is using a thinner feeler gauge or a sheet of paper without over-extrusion. The reasoning is that if you have a 0.2 mm to start with, adding the first layer thickness (e.g. 0.2 mm) would imply that you are already starting at a 0.4 mm gap on your first layer. You now try to push out more filament to fill that gap (resulting in not really pressing the filament to the plate).\n\nFurthermore, your tape does not look like it is laid down next to each other, it looks as though it is laid over each other. This creates an uneven bed surface.\n\nFinalizing, you should do whatever you do to get the filament to stick to the build plate, if it works for you, use it. If it doesn't produce viable prints, or you are not satisfied with the surface finish, change it.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n7981,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lux Claridge,1.726248027126092,3.171906017490645,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Do firmware updates affect print speeds?,\"I flashed the TH3D unified firmware (R2.7) yesterday and so far everything works. I printed the 20 mm cube using the same G-code file I used for my very first print ever. However, with TH3D firmware I noticed that the print head was ridiculously fast compared to the previous firmware. The new cube has layer shifting and more noticeable ghosting so I know it's not just my imagination/faulty memory. \n\nThe slicer should have everything moving at 60 mm/s but I feel like the printer is going like 80+ mm/s. I only uncommented my printer model and a couple of features of the firmware; nothing involving speed (mainly the mesh bed leveling). Is it possible that the new firmware thinks 60 mm/s is a different speed than the original?\n\n\n\nNote: This question isn't about print quality. While the cube had flaws, it was just testing that the printer would actually print. And, of course, I can just dial things down. This question's scope is just about the input of the G-code and the output of an actual speed of printer head facilitated by the firmware.\n\",silver,\"Yes, the limits are often subject to some \"\"interpretation\"\" in the limiting algorithms, even if they are totally unchanged values. Eg, your speed may remain higher around corners if the momentum calculations were optimized to take into account print head weight and extrusion instead of only per axis speed curves.\n\",0.0,0.0\n7981,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lux Claridge,1.726248027126092,3.171906017490645,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Do firmware updates affect print speeds?,\"I flashed the TH3D unified firmware (R2.7) yesterday and so far everything works. I printed the 20 mm cube using the same G-code file I used for my very first print ever. However, with TH3D firmware I noticed that the print head was ridiculously fast compared to the previous firmware. The new cube has layer shifting and more noticeable ghosting so I know it's not just my imagination/faulty memory. \n\nThe slicer should have everything moving at 60 mm/s but I feel like the printer is going like 80+ mm/s. I only uncommented my printer model and a couple of features of the firmware; nothing involving speed (mainly the mesh bed leveling). Is it possible that the new firmware thinks 60 mm/s is a different speed than the original?\n\n\n\nNote: This question isn't about print quality. While the cube had flaws, it was just testing that the printer would actually print. And, of course, I can just dial things down. This question's scope is just about the input of the G-code and the output of an actual speed of printer head facilitated by the firmware.\n\",Dr. Mantis Tobbogan,\"I agree with @silver, but also wanted to point out that maybe the acceleration values on the old firmware you had were different from the default in TH3D R2.7.\n\nThe current settings can be retrieved using the M503 command, which should return the values from the eeprom:\n\nMaximum Acceleration (units/s2):\nM201 X1000 Y1000 Z100 E10000\nAcceleration (units/s2): P R T\nM204 P400.00 R1000.00 T1000.00\n\n\nYou can then lookup the default settings for your printer model and use M201 and M204 to set the new values. Then M500 to save the new settings to the EEPROM.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8038,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lux Claridge,2.1782824847157594,4.383596698108321,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,How to log more than 300 lines of the OctoPrint terminal?,\"Is there a way to view more than the last 300 lines in the terminal tab on OctoPrint? Or is there a txt file of a log? Or even a setting/plugin that does either?\n\nI keep finding my prints pausing as if I said to change the filament even though that wasn't set in the slicer, but I catch it long after the 300th line in the terminal so I can't see what OctoPrint is trying to do.\n\",0scar,\"Yes, you can show more than 300 lines in the terminal; just disable auto scrolling (reference).\n\n\n Disabling Autoscroll now completely disables cutting off the lines (so\n you can have way more than 300 lines while that's disabled), filtering\n has been improved too and doesn't cause scrolling anymore.\n\n\nNote that with disabled autoscrolling, you will be able to see more lines up to the point that the buffer is full. If you need even more lines to monitor, just enable the logging the data to file serial.log. If you open the options page (OctoPrint Settings), just tick the box for \"\"Log communication to serial.log\"\" under \"\"Serial logging\"\" of the \"\"Serial connection\"\" options.\n\nThis serial logging file is typically used for debug purposes, but as can be read from the options, it comes with a warning:\n\n\n While this can negatively impact performance, a serial.log can be\n incredibly useful for debugging any issues observed in the\n communication between OctoPrint and your printer.\n\n\nYou can either access the log file through the OctoPrint options/setting through the \"\"Logging\"\" options tab, or direct download/copy from the logging directory:\n\n\n \n on Linux: ~/.octoprint/logs\n on Windows: %APPDATA%\\OctoPrint\\logs\n on MacOSX: ~/Library/Application Support/OctoPrint/logs\n \n\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n8038,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lux Claridge,2.1782824847157594,4.383596698108321,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,How to log more than 300 lines of the OctoPrint terminal?,\"Is there a way to view more than the last 300 lines in the terminal tab on OctoPrint? Or is there a txt file of a log? Or even a setting/plugin that does either?\n\nI keep finding my prints pausing as if I said to change the filament even though that wasn't set in the slicer, but I catch it long after the 300th line in the terminal so I can't see what OctoPrint is trying to do.\n\",Lux Claridge,\"Serial logging has to be enabled. Warning: This will impact the performance of OctoPrint. Enabling this feature can be done under Settings -> Serial Connection -> Serial Logging and checking the box for \"\"Log communication to serial.log.\n\n\nOne can download the log under Settings -> Logging and finding serial.log in the list of log files.\n\nThe file can also be found in the following directories (according to this FAQ)\n\n\n All log files that OctoPrint writes can be found in the logs sub folder in its configuration directory:\n \n \n on Linux: ~/.octoprint/logs\n on Windows: %APPDATA%\\OctoPrint\\logs\n on MacOSX: ~/Library/Application Support/OctoPrint/logs\n \n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n8188,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lux Claridge,0.0,2.7425302054574083,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,What kind of filaments can I use?,\"This is probably the most basic of questions. When I was shopping for a printer I saw models that would list a slew of certain plastics that the printer can print while other printers (different suppliers) would only list PLA/ABS. At the same time, the instruction manual that came with my printer only listed PLA and ABS.\n\nWhat is actually used to determine the possible material (other than diameter)? I assume that if the nozzle can reach the required temperature to melt the plastic and the bed can reach the necessary temperature to maintain bed adhesion, then my printer can print that plastic. Am I correct? \n\nFor example, my nozzle can reach 250 °C, but the bed can barely reach 80 °C so I can print with ABS but not with ASA (since it needs at least 90 °C on the bed. However, if I switch out the heating element for something beefier then that opens up anything that needs a hotter bed. Right?\n\nLet's assume that I have the means to change nozzles and extruder type to fit the need of the filament. The goal of this question is to limit to one or two limiting factors of the printer without major modification.\n\",Joel Coehoorn,\"There are other factors besides temperature. Certain \"\"soft\"\" filaments won't go well through all extruders, and some other filaments with wood/metal particle additives don't go well through every extruder type and can cause clogging. Even people who do tend to print a lot of these materials will often use a specific nozzle just for those filaments.\n\nThat said, you still might be able to print even with something like ASA that seems unsupported. You can do this by taking additional measures for bed adhesion, or upgrading or swapping your nozzle or hot end.\n\nIf you can print PLA and ABS, you can probably also print so-called PLA+ and PETG, at a minimum.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n8470,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lux Claridge,2.528907649931287,4.203474562571316,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Are there printers that don't have thermal runaway protection?,\"This question asks about the reasoning behind thermal runaway protection and how to turn it on. However, how do I know if my printer does not have protection in the first place? Either because it is shut off by default or, if such printers exist, is not a feature of the printer.\n\nFor example, the Creality CR-10S, a popular family of printers, has TRP not enabled (or deactivated) for some reason. Since there are a handful of printers (Creality, Tevo, Anet, Prusa, Ultimaker, etc) that seem pretty ubiquitous in the community and are recommended for beginners, it seems like it'd be handy to know whether or not any given printer has this safety feature.\n\",0scar,\"At the time of this writing (March 2019), many (if not most) cheap printers from the Far East are not delivered with Thermal Runaway Protection enabled as Marlin had this feature disabled as default for a long time (it was for certain so in April of 2018).\n\nI know that Anet printers (A8 from experience) and the Creality Ender-3 printer (experience from another member) come with TRP disabled in the firmware when shipped from the factory. Thomas Sanladerer did a test on his machines and found that it was disabled on the Creality CR-10, Anet E-10 and A-8 had it disabled while the Mini Fabrikator v1 did have no Mintemp/Maxtemp but Thermal Runaway. Even the quite expensive BCN3D Sigma R17 had it disabled in April of 2018 on default.\n\nAmong the printers that come with Thermal Runaway Protection enabled are the PrusaResearch builds of the Original Prusa i3.\n\nTo test if it is enabled on your printer, you could disconnect the heater elements prior or during printing, see this answer or the process explained in Thomas Sanladerer's Video above or from the start of his safety tutorial:\n\n\n How to test if TRP is active on my printer?\n \n To test if thermal runaway protection is enabled on your printer, you\n can disconnect the heater element of the hotend or the heated bed. You\n can disconnect the heater element while the printer is cold (before\n start) and also when the heater element is heating up. No heating of\n the nozzle will take place, so after the period defined by the time\n constant set in the firmware, the printer will halt if thermal runaway\n protection is enabled. Power down the machine and reconnect the wires,\n it is not advised to put them back in; when the printer halted, you\n should power down or reset the printer anyways. If the printer did not\n halt, power it down as quickly as possible.\n\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n9792,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,rekire,2.528907649931287,3.3468467879848673,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.104288080884247,Which software do I need to start print something?,\"I'm still new to 3D printing and I want to print something. I expect that I'll mess it up since I find nothing to adjust it but it is now laying around for 4 months and I'm sick of it.\n\nSo my question is where do I find Windows software to print something and of course where do I get a 3D model?\n\nI own a Geeetech i3 Pro W.\n\",0scar,\"First; find a model!\n\nTo print something you require a model (usually this is in STL format, look into websites called Thingiverse and MyMiniFactory for examples). Once you have a model file, you need to make it readable for the printer firmware.\n\nIf you can't find suitable model, then you need to design a model yourself (or ask someone to do it for you) or adjust an existing model to suit your needs. \"\"Good (preferably free) Beginner Software for Part Creation?\"\" is a good place to start.\n\nSecond; use slicer software\n\nFor a printer to be able to print the model, the model needs to be sliced into layers. These layers need to be printed at specific speeds, temperatures, etc. Search online and look at the filament packaging (usually the ideal temperatures are on the packaging) to find the ideal temperature for your filament. If you are not using the right temperatures, your print will most likely fail. Programs that are able to slice models are called slicers. The most popular free (and Windows compatible) slicers are Ultimaker Cura and Slic3r (or its Prusa distribution).\n\nThe slicer produces a printer readable file called a G-code file (file filled with printer instructions for e.g. movement and heating). This G-code file can be sent to the printer using specific printer software (e.g. OctoPrint, Repetier-Host, etc.) but more common or simple is to put the G-code file on an SD card and print the file using the print menu on the printer LCD.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n9792,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,rekire,2.528907649931287,3.3468467879848673,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.104288080884247,Which software do I need to start print something?,\"I'm still new to 3D printing and I want to print something. I expect that I'll mess it up since I find nothing to adjust it but it is now laying around for 4 months and I'm sick of it.\n\nSo my question is where do I find Windows software to print something and of course where do I get a 3D model?\n\nI own a Geeetech i3 Pro W.\n\",Pommie,\"If you're just starting out then Tinkercad (website) is a good place to start designing your own objects. Later you can get to grips with OpenScad for more complex shapes. Both are free.\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n9804,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,rekire,1.726248027126092,2.8245194970758165,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,The first layers while printing look strange,\"I own a Geeetech i3 Pro W and I started printing today. Amazing how it works.\n\nI just recognized while printing my first bigger model something very strange: At the beginning some parts are missing and there are huge holes. However when I keep it printing the following layers \"\"fix\"\" the issue. I'm wondering what I'm doing wrong.\n\nI almost forgot to mention that I think I'm using that PLA, the bed has a temperature of 60 °C and the extruder 200 °C.\n\nHere are two pictures after about 1 layer and after about 4 layers:\n\n\n\n\n\",0scar,\"From the first layer image it can be seen that your nozzle to bed distance is just too large:\n\n\nthe lines of deposited filament e.g. in the brim are not touching,\ndeposited filament lines are not \"\"squished\"\" or \"\"flattened\"\" to the build plate,\nfilament is cutting off corners as it is dragged while being hot and not stuck to the bed,\nfilament leaves the nozzle in \"\"blobs\"\"; it sort of free flows from the nozzle as the bed is too far to give resistance.\n\n\nUse the plain paper technique while levelling the bed. The paper should give a slight drag/resistance when pulled/pushed. Proper levelling and a proper nozzle to bed distance for the first layer are essential for successful prints. \n\nThere is also an option to integrally lower the print level in the slicer software, but it is advised to properly level the bed (hardware solution) instead of using software tricks to sort out the problem.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n9842,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,rekire,2.528907649931287,3.8364869557858974,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.104288080884247,Power OctoPi from printer,\"I'm wondering if there is some trick to power my OctoPi with the power supply of my 3D printer. I'm using an Geeetech I3 Pro W.\n\nThe power supply itself should be able, but the output is as far as I'm aware of 3.3 volts. Not my desired 5 V for USB, it would be a shame if I really would need to buy a new power supply when I have a strong one actually running. My current power supply causes a lot of \"\"Under-voltage detected!\"\" warnings.\n\nAfter thinking a little about the specs, there are cigarette lighter adapter for cars they use 12 V. Has anyone experience with using that on his printer?\n\",0scar,\"What you are looking for is called a \"\"buck converter\"\" or a \"\"step down module\"\". These literally cost about half a buck/Euro a piece. These converters convert a high voltage into a low voltage, the better ones are able to draw 2 to 3 Amps, which is required for stable operation of the Raspberry Pi.\n\nIf you have an old computer power supply of a decent brand (probably not as you refer to a kit/assembled printer, but added for completeness), you can even use the standby 5 V line out and switch the power supply on using a relay to short the green wire of the PSU to ground. This is how I use it on one of my printers.\n\nNote to power the Raspberry Pi through the micro USB port, to not bypass safety features.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n9842,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,rekire,2.528907649931287,3.8364869557858974,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.104288080884247,Power OctoPi from printer,\"I'm wondering if there is some trick to power my OctoPi with the power supply of my 3D printer. I'm using an Geeetech I3 Pro W.\n\nThe power supply itself should be able, but the output is as far as I'm aware of 3.3 volts. Not my desired 5 V for USB, it would be a shame if I really would need to buy a new power supply when I have a strong one actually running. My current power supply causes a lot of \"\"Under-voltage detected!\"\" warnings.\n\nAfter thinking a little about the specs, there are cigarette lighter adapter for cars they use 12 V. Has anyone experience with using that on his printer?\n\",rekire,\"Thank you guys for your help. I ended up with a suggested \"\"Step Down Power Module\"\" which works fine for me. I connected that module directly with the power supply of the printer with a blade connector. The first startup showed me a couple of low voltage warnings, but the second start worked fine without any warnings. I didn't know how the UI looks like without the warning on the top.\n\nSo I avoided that fancy and risky back powering since I power it now as intended. Now I have one power supply less which is great out of my opinion.\n\",0.0,0.0\n7719,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user13895,1.0891412423578797,3.1447983993774047,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Trying to control temperature of hotend using PWM signal and MOSFET,\"I have a 40 W, 12 V resistance heater in the hotend. It also has a 100 kΩ thermistor built in. I am using an Arduino to read the temperature on the LCD. This is working fine.\n\nI want to use this temperature using a MOSFET and the PWM signal that is generated by the ARDUINO.\nSo I connected the PWM signal to the Gate of the MOSFET and connected the 12 V, 3 A supply to the drain of the MOSFET. And connected the Resistance heater of the 3D printer to the source and ground.\n\nBut the problem that I am facing is that the Current is flowing from drain and the source even without the gate signal to the MOSFET.\n\nI am not able to control the current to the resistance heater.\n\nMosfet: IRFZ44N\nand the AC to DC adapter is 12 V, 3 A.\nPWM signal is max 2 V.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"\n connected the 12 V, 3 A supply to the drain of the MOSFET. And connected the Resistance heater of the 3D printer to the source and ground.\n\n\nThe MOSFET is damaged. If the gate is at $0V$, no current should be able to flow.\n\nYou're trying to use an N-channel MOSFET as a high-side switch. This is a bad idea, because it would require more than $12V$ at the gate to turn the MOSFET on properly. It would be better to set this up as a low-side switch so that the microcontroller can drive the gate directly. The MOSFET should go between the load and ground, not between the load and $+12V$.\n\nThe fact that you connected it like this is the very reason the MOSFET has been damaged. When the MOSFET is OFF, there is $0V$ across the heater. When the microcontroller starts to turn the MOSFET ON (by applying $5V$ to the gate, thus increasing $V_{GS}$ to above $V_{th}$), current starts to flow through the load and the voltage across the load increases. This in turn decreases $V_{GS}$, causing the MOSFET to turn off. You will end up with approximately $3V$ across the load and $V_{GS}=2V$. You've got $9V$ being dropped across your MOSFET and with a current of approximately $800mA$, the $7W$ of heat produced will quickly kill the MOSFET.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7720,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mastervv,1.0891412423578797,4.63847143368527,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Hotend does not reach set temperature,\"If I set the temperature of my hotend with pronterface to 200 °C, the temperature never reaches that value. For instance, it almost reaches the target with a temperate of 196/197 °C and then starts to drop to 184/85 °C before it starts to rise again to 196/197 °C. It remains in this loop forever and thus I'm not able to start any print because the temperature never stabilizes enough.\n\nI've tried to configure the PID (M303 E0 S200 C8) with 8, 12, 15 intervals not help the issue continue.\n\nI've tried to change heatblock and thermistor not help\n\nIts important to refer this behaviour occur in any tempurate if I fix 150º it never reaches 150º it go to 146/147º and then drops again 10/15º and restart the loop. Same thing if I fix the tempurature to 210º.\n\nAlso I've tested this in multiple versions of marlin 1.1.8 and 1.1.9.The version of marlin 1.1.8 have worked in the same print in the past.\n\nI'm have not clue about what can cause this issue, maybe its a board malfunctions (mosfet) or a powersupply malfunction.\n\nSomebody can help me on this?\n\",dgrat,\"Your description sounds indeed as if the PID is not correct. You can try autotune with M303 only if your heating cartridge is not absolutely overpowered. However, in such a case you typically also have an overshoot, which you don't mention in your description. \n\nIn that case you need to lower your duty cycle (by the BANG_MAX parameter in the firmware) a bit. Otherwise autotune fails, because your heating cartridge overshoots even at small gains.\n\nOut of the box I would suggest you to increase your D-term and decrease your I term if it cycles like that. For most printers, I used, a ratio like that is sufficient: 4/1.5/25.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7722,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Vforpanic,1.0891412423578797,2.55797842413943,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,\"What the adjective \"\"downstream\"\" is used for?\",\"I'm working with a project involving 3D printing's terminology, but I'm not such an expert... so I was asking myself if someone can explain the meaning of the \"\"downstream\"\" adjective in this field. \n\nMore precisely, I'm dealing with this sentence: \"\"Handle any downstream task\"\", which I really can't understand because it has a very poor context. \n\nI also have this sentence with the adjective that I'm having trouble with:\n\n\n Confidently send your surfaces downstream knowing your results are usable design surfaces.\n\n\",Greenonline,\"Imagine an assembly line and the flow of the material along that line. That flow is analogous to a river, and therefore any machining/processing following on from any point along that line is considered to be downstream of that point.\n\nFrom Wikipedia - Downstream (Manufacturing)\n\n\n Downstream in manufacturing refers to processes that occur later on in a production sequence or production line. \n\n\",0.0,0.0\n7722,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Vforpanic,1.0891412423578797,2.55797842413943,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,\"What the adjective \"\"downstream\"\" is used for?\",\"I'm working with a project involving 3D printing's terminology, but I'm not such an expert... so I was asking myself if someone can explain the meaning of the \"\"downstream\"\" adjective in this field. \n\nMore precisely, I'm dealing with this sentence: \"\"Handle any downstream task\"\", which I really can't understand because it has a very poor context. \n\nI also have this sentence with the adjective that I'm having trouble with:\n\n\n Confidently send your surfaces downstream knowing your results are usable design surfaces.\n\n\",user5507,\"Without more anymore context \"\"downstream\"\" could be in reference to a print that would be sent to another machine for post-processing. The post-processing machine is \"\"downstream\"\" from the machine used to make the print in the first place.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7737,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cleanunicorn,1.0891412423578797,2.7669748712461706,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Z Axis Cannot Move,\"I've got a Geeetech Pro B i3 printer (my first 3d printer) and after I've assembled it I started testing the axis. X and Y work well but Z cannot move.\n\nIf I disconnect the couplings the motors move by themselves and they move in the same direction.\n\n\n\nIf I help a little bit the motors, by turning with my hand, they move and sometimes move without helping anymore but it stops after a few seconds.\n\nI don't know what do to. I've measured the rest of the setup to make sure there aren't any big differences that could create tension.\n\nWhat do you suggest?\n\",Trish,\"Check if your Z-Rods and motors are exactly vertical. If not, adjust as needed.\n\nCheck if the brass nuts are perfectly aligned with the rods in the position they are forced in by the screws. Shim to adjust if needed.\n\nIf they are ok, then your brass nuts might need a little oiling/grease if they stick to the lead screw.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7746,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leosefcik,1.726248027126092,3.4603828048255023,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Weird surface thing,\"I have a 3D printer at home, the Colido Compact, and for some reason when I 3D print big flat surfaces a really weird thing happens. I'm using some PLA from Colido too I think\n\n\n\nIt almost seems as if the bottom layer does perfectly but when it starts printing out the top surface this happens, because the one on the bottom left is in two parts because the upper part is the bottom one and that one is perfectly flat, then I took them apart and the weird thing just stayed with the top part... and also on the weird warps there are bits of brown goo or something? I don't know it looks as if the filament was burned...\nIt only appears on pretty big surfaces because smaller ones don't seem to have the problem.\n\nAnyone knows what is happening?\n\",Roberto Lo Giacco,\"If you hear some \"\"clicking\"\" during the print then you are experiencing filament slipping inside the extruder gear.\nI had a similar issue on my Geeetech i3 and I fixed it by replacing the extruder tooth gear, the one that pushes the filament inside the hot-end.\nAlso, I advice to double check your filament is not getting stuck and your Spool spins freely.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7746,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,leosefcik,1.726248027126092,3.4603828048255023,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Weird surface thing,\"I have a 3D printer at home, the Colido Compact, and for some reason when I 3D print big flat surfaces a really weird thing happens. I'm using some PLA from Colido too I think\n\n\n\nIt almost seems as if the bottom layer does perfectly but when it starts printing out the top surface this happens, because the one on the bottom left is in two parts because the upper part is the bottom one and that one is perfectly flat, then I took them apart and the weird thing just stayed with the top part... and also on the weird warps there are bits of brown goo or something? I don't know it looks as if the filament was burned...\nIt only appears on pretty big surfaces because smaller ones don't seem to have the problem.\n\nAnyone knows what is happening?\n\",Cem Kalyoncu,\"It could be over extrusion. \n\nSince I do not have physical access to your prints I cannot make sure. Please check if the thickness of the part is actually higher than what it supposed to be. Also, check the printing process during the print. Is the object taller than the nozzle at any time? \n\nI generally have the same problem at the first layer, as sometimes I squeeze the first layer too much, causing extreme over extrusion. But unlike your case, upper layers kind of fixes the issue. In your case, the issue is amplified as you get higher. Walls turn out to be ok as there is room for flament to grow around, it is the flat surfaces that will got hit bad.\n\nI strongly suggest you to print calibration pieces to ensure correct setting. If you have caliper you could try this or if you don't this one might help.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7749,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,jvriesem,1.726248027126092,3.9391026765029684,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,How could I print a large sphere-like object?,\"I have a STL file with a rather large roughly-spherical object. I'd like to 3D print it to be fairly large, and hollow inside. Since the printer I'd be using has a max size of (18–20 cm)^3, I'd have to print this in pieces and then reassemble them into the sphere-like shape. The textured surface of the object is important, but small seams would seem unavoidable.\n\nMy Question\n\nHow could I 3D print a hollow sphere or sphere-like object that's too large for the available basic 3D printer? \n\nBecause this would need to be done in parts, it's more complicated than the designs I've made. Because the final product is roughly spherical and hollow (i.e. nothing is nicely angular), it's trickier than some other designs. \n\n(I have little experience with 3D modelling/CAD, so I'd somewhat prefer solutions with minimal advanced steps such as designing my own joints and whatnot...but advanced steps are definitely okay if part of a great solution!) \n\nMy Ideas So Far\n\nI know I could cut the sphere roughly in (e.g.) eighths via planar slices, print the eight pieces individually, but then the question is how to attach them. I am also concerned that the seams might be too noticeable. (Perhaps there's a better way?)\n\nI could just glue the pieces together. My fear then is that it would lack internal structural support if they were attached only at the outer layer (unless the skin thickness were excessive, at least near the boundary). \n\nI imagine I could give the pieces internal supports with dowel joints or snap-fit joints (e.g. these), but I lack knowledge of how to do that and don't know whether that would even work well. \n\",Trish,\"A sphere can be put together quarters easily, but those need support in the center. However, there is a slightly different cut is more economic:\n\n\nCut a top and bottom \"\"plate\"\" off, print them separately, the lower one \"\"upside down\"\"\nCut the remaining piece into quarters\n\n\nFor more equal printing, maybe even cut them along the equator too and print the lower half \"\"upside down\"\"\n\n\n\n\n\nThis way, the support material can be reduced to a minimum - only the top and bottom will need any support, and it is easily accessible to smooth it away.\n\nIf the walls would be something like one millimeter thick, any good glue should work. If you want to reduce the visible seam, you might bevel the faces, so that the wall has a little gap on the inner wall. As most glues shrink as they harden, it will flatten into the \"\"gap\"\", evening out the internal face. \n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n7756,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,T. M.,2.1782824847157594,4.1764561374575395,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Makerbot Replicator (5th generation) poor print quality,\"Current main problem is that at various points during a print, one layer doesn’t attach well to the layer below it. That is what appears to be causing the artifacts in the second picture below, but the picture may not show it clearly. \n\nBackground\n\nI have a Makerbot Replicator 5th generation printer. This is the one that is very locked down. As far as I know it can only use the slicer it comes with, Makerbot print, but I'd be happy to be told otherwise. It only prints in PLA and @Trish gave some good advice on drying out the filament. I've also leveled the print bed. Prints have improved from where they couldn't even finish to now where they just aren't very good quality.\n\nThe issue I'm having now seems to be primarily that one build layer sometimes doesn't stick to the one below it very well. Then they peel up and the nozzle pulls them and re-melts them into a blob. I've attached two pictures. It's worse in the first one, then I lowered the first model layer fan setting from 50% to 45% and it improved and I was able to get the print in the second picture.\n\nAny help on what settings I can change would be great. Is this because it is underextruding? I think I'm stuck with whatever setting options are available in the Makerbot.print software.\n\n\n\n\nPrint settings\n\nThe default print temp for this printer is 215. This is at 210 degrees, but those blobs aren't actually burned they are a mix of the previous red filament that was on the outside of the nozzle. The travel speed is 150 mm/s, First model layer print speed is 30mm/s, Raft to model shell vertical offset is 0.26mm, Raft to model vertical offset is 0.33mm (I can't tell what the different between those is), z-offset is 0 (default), Layer height is 0.14mm. In the second picture the print was attached but separated easily from the raft. \n\nA couple more settings that might matter is the Print speed: Outlines is 20mm/s, and the Print Speed: Infill is 90mm/s\n\nUpdate 3/15/19\n\nI made several of the changes suggested including lowering the temperature, leveling the bed, adjusting the Z-offset, and lowering the infill speed. I also continued to dry the filament in a dry box with a lot of desicant that I dry periodically. The desicant seemed to make much more difference than drying the filament at 50C for a couple hours. Print quality has improved a lot, but isn't great. I'm coming to the conclusion that the filament has been damaged by poor storage. It has been left in a drawer in a humid, hot room over the past summer or more. \n\nI'm still using a raft because prints fail completely without it and work reasonably well with one so I have no problem using a raft. Now most of my problem is blobs of filament that I think are running down the nozzle from the heater core. I may have to take some timelapse video to figure that part out. I'm also having some stringing which may be a filament quality issue and some layer shifting.\n\",Trish,\"Reading your print settings, I noticed some oddities:\n\n\n215 °C\nraft\n\n\nThese are settings one does not expect for PLA but seem reasonable for ABS. The 215 °C could be reasonable if \n\n\nthe melt zone is extremely short and partially insulated (Makerbot Mk 10 style)\nthe PLA is a blend with a particularly high melting temperature\n\n\nCommon PLA is printed with\n\n\n190-200°C nozzle temperature in most e3d-v6 derivates and \"\"Mk 8\"\"*\n60 °C bed temperature, when available\nno raft but possibly a brim to aid in getting a spatula under the print\ncleaning the build platform of residual fingerprints with Isopropyic alcohol or acetone is always adviseable\na glass or metal print surface might get better adhesion from priming it with:\n\n\nPVA-Gluestick/3dLac/Hairspray\na fresh painters tape\n\na BuildTak (or clone) surface does not need additional settings\n\n\n* As far as I know, that Mk 8 does not reference which manufacturer designed this thing, which makes it a kinda nonsensical naming. Mk 8 is short for Mark 8, so by definition the 8th iteration of a specific product.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7756,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,T. M.,2.1782824847157594,4.1764561374575395,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Makerbot Replicator (5th generation) poor print quality,\"Current main problem is that at various points during a print, one layer doesn’t attach well to the layer below it. That is what appears to be causing the artifacts in the second picture below, but the picture may not show it clearly. \n\nBackground\n\nI have a Makerbot Replicator 5th generation printer. This is the one that is very locked down. As far as I know it can only use the slicer it comes with, Makerbot print, but I'd be happy to be told otherwise. It only prints in PLA and @Trish gave some good advice on drying out the filament. I've also leveled the print bed. Prints have improved from where they couldn't even finish to now where they just aren't very good quality.\n\nThe issue I'm having now seems to be primarily that one build layer sometimes doesn't stick to the one below it very well. Then they peel up and the nozzle pulls them and re-melts them into a blob. I've attached two pictures. It's worse in the first one, then I lowered the first model layer fan setting from 50% to 45% and it improved and I was able to get the print in the second picture.\n\nAny help on what settings I can change would be great. Is this because it is underextruding? I think I'm stuck with whatever setting options are available in the Makerbot.print software.\n\n\n\n\nPrint settings\n\nThe default print temp for this printer is 215. This is at 210 degrees, but those blobs aren't actually burned they are a mix of the previous red filament that was on the outside of the nozzle. The travel speed is 150 mm/s, First model layer print speed is 30mm/s, Raft to model shell vertical offset is 0.26mm, Raft to model vertical offset is 0.33mm (I can't tell what the different between those is), z-offset is 0 (default), Layer height is 0.14mm. In the second picture the print was attached but separated easily from the raft. \n\nA couple more settings that might matter is the Print speed: Outlines is 20mm/s, and the Print Speed: Infill is 90mm/s\n\nUpdate 3/15/19\n\nI made several of the changes suggested including lowering the temperature, leveling the bed, adjusting the Z-offset, and lowering the infill speed. I also continued to dry the filament in a dry box with a lot of desicant that I dry periodically. The desicant seemed to make much more difference than drying the filament at 50C for a couple hours. Print quality has improved a lot, but isn't great. I'm coming to the conclusion that the filament has been damaged by poor storage. It has been left in a drawer in a humid, hot room over the past summer or more. \n\nI'm still using a raft because prints fail completely without it and work reasonably well with one so I have no problem using a raft. Now most of my problem is blobs of filament that I think are running down the nozzle from the heater core. I may have to take some timelapse video to figure that part out. I'm also having some stringing which may be a filament quality issue and some layer shifting.\n\",0scar,\"Your printer is improperly leveled with respect to the distance of the nozzle to the bed. This, and a high raft to print part distance, causes consecutive layers to not adhere well. \n\nPLA should not need that high temperatures to print nor does it need a raft. Rafts are interesting when printing filaments that have high shrinkage. Furthermore, a 90 mm/s infill speed is pretty high, and do not use the part cooling fan for the first few layers (if you cool too much it can curl up).\n\nYou need to re-level the bed and make sure that the nozzle to build plate distance is the thickness of a sheet of A4 paper when Z = 0.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n8577,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,T. M.,1.0891412423578797,3.502641775239062,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,School grant proposal,\"I've been asked to come up with a grant proposal for a new 3D printer. My question is:\n\n\n What supporting components and training would be most beneficial to support educational use in a K-8 school? In other words what things am I missing in my list below? \n\n\nSpecific suggestions for things on my list that I may not have thought of are welcome too. A specific tool, etc.\n\nThe suggestion was to include a base proposal with stretch goals that include everything needed. \n\nMy current ideas are:\n\n\n3D Printer - option of a Prusa Mk3 or a Railcore 300ZLT. Possibly add another Prusa Mk3 kit as a stretch goal for students to assemble.\nReplacement and optional parts such as a hardened nozzle.\nTraining and professional development\nFilament - a variety of kinds such as PLA, ABS, flexible, conductive, etc.\nDry box or supplies to make one.\nHEPA filter.\nEnclosure - heated and/or soundproofed.\nMaintenance tools or supplies. Lubricant, etc.\n\n\",cmm,\"The question changed after I answered, so I'll answer the new question. \n\nMy answers are based on seeing the results of 3D printing deployed in a nearby school system, and my own experience as a FIRST Robotics mentor in my son's school system.\n\nCurrent question's answer\n\n\n\nK-8\n\nYou are ambitious. At the K level, I can see a group project to change a design (such as bracelets), and print the result. This would be done by an adult operating the design software and managing the printer.\n\nAt some point, maybe G4-G5, the students would be in more control, with assistance at hand to help jump past barriers that appear (software bugs, clogged nozzles, ...). By G8 the students should be able to handle the whole workflow if they have come up through the program.\n\nIt would be great if there were a version of Logo for 3D printing. Maybe there is.\n\nCAD\n\nYou will need some form of CAD software to make 3D printing useful. Depending on the students, and assuming a small budget, you could look at OpenSCAD (or SolidPython) and OnShape. \n\nOpenSCAD uses a simple language to specify and transform geometric shapes and to perform union, intersection, and subtraction functions. SolidPython is built atop OpenSCAD works with Python IDEs. With the Python language, loops and conditionals are more natural. OpenSCAD is pretty simple, but some people prefer Python. Designs are not \"\"drawn\"\", but are programmed. \n\nOnShape is a cloud-based, traditional 3D design and modeling tool. Free user licenses are available with the caveat that all designs are publicly accessible and copiable, but others may not change your copy. It will be familiar to users of AutoDesk and SolidWorks systems, although the dialect will be strange.\n\nBoth produce STL files for 3D printing the designs.\n\nWhat is the purpose of 3D printing at the school?\n\nOther training really depends on how 3D printing is integrated into the core curriculum. If 3D printing is part of a class in the static analysis of structures, then the class would be providing the training about strength.\n\nIMO, the best training is accomplished by giving students access to the equipment with a mentor available to answer questions. Each student comes to 3D modeling and printing with their own curiosity and motivation, and those are best served by smoothing their chosen path with information and advise.\n\nWhat can go wrong?\n\nThe worst outcome is where money is raised, equipment is purchased, and no one is available to make it work. Or, it works great until the inevitable problem arises, and no one can resolve it. I've seen this happen in a large, well-funded school system. The students get frustrated, and the program loses credibility. The well-off students buy their own equipment and carry on, while those who can't dismiss 3D printing. 3D printing becomes another failed adventure.\n\nTypical Problems\n\nWorking in any school system is complicated. CORI checks are required. Special certifications and permissions are needed to work on school property. Insurance and liability are raised as problems which block progress. Often nothing is possible without a teacher-on-staff taking personal responsibility and directly supervising activities. \n\nScheduling prints which take over a few hours may be impossible. \n\nMost problems can be overcome with strong support from teachers and administration.\n\nTraining Required\n\nThe most important persons to be trained are the teachers and/or mentors. They will train the students, and the students will train themselves and each other.\n\nThe teachers/mentors should be familiar with the general operation of the CAD software, know how to operate the 3D printing devices, and be able to resolve all common problems. Keeping the equipment available is important. Going down for a month is a long time in a school semester.\n\nIf 3D printing is integrated into a specific part of the curriculum, the teacher of that curriculum will provide the subject matter training that is being demonstrated through printing. The physics teacher, the math teacher, or the art teacher will use the 3D printing to teach their domain.\n\nSupporting Components\n\nLook to the chemistry department for a fume hood to use for ventilation and a fire-proof enclosure.\n\nConsult with the responsible authorities in the school to determine if special ventilation is required for occasional classroom use. Whatever they say, it may not be enough because of parents' fear of plastics.\n\nHave spare parts on hand to quickly bring a printer back online. The ideal spare part is an extra printer -- plus other parts to restore the broken one when it fails. Consider the latency in the supply chain for replacement parts.\n\nHave a purchasing flow authorized that allows spare parts and operating supplies to be purchased quickly. In some school systems, it can take months to purchase materials because such purchases are handled on a semester-by-semester basis. That won't work when you really need a spool of a special color by yesterday. If necessary, look to PTA-like organizations because they may be able to operate more quickly.\n\nConsider using PLA in the classrooms. There is friendly web content about PLA being sustainable, \"\"natural\"\", and biodegradable, rather than the ABS stigma of being petrochemical.\n\nIf the upper grades have a community service requirement, allow the 3D savvy students to volunteer as 3D printing mentors to the younger grades.\n\n\n\nPrevious answer\n\nIf your question is about what equipment to buy, it would be off topic as being a question of opinion and recommending specific vendor's equipment. I am answering the question about determining what should be in a proposal.\n\nLike any consideration of acquiring a 3d printing capability, there is some data that must be known before you can determine such a list of equipment.\n\nFirst, what will the capability be used for? In a school context, it could be used as part of a curriculum, probably not on the topic of 3d printing, but perhaps something else. Or, it could be part of a school machine shop or hobby shop. It could be used by a robotics club, a rocket club, or a theater club. Based on how it will be used at the school, you can determine the next data.\n\nSecond, what will be capability be used to print? Based on that, you can judge which devices meet the need.\n\nThird, based on the \"\"what\"\", and a sense of \"\"how much\"\", you can judge the type and quantity of supplies you will need. Supplies for the first two or three years should be included in the proposal.\n\nFourth, estimate the amount of special staff time that should be needed, find a sponsor within the school who will commit to that time, and estimate the funds required to compensate them.\n\nFinally, roll up a sales document, ideally based on a rubric from the granting agency, which included the benefits, allignment with the grant guidelines, and the costs. Validate the proposal, especially the cost and the staff requirements, with whoever invited you to submit a proposal.\n\n... and remember to actually submit the proposal by the deadline.\n\nBringing 3d printing into school is a great addition to other educational and engineering tools. With the right support from the existing school staff and a clear vision of how it will fit into the school activities and existing culture, 3d printing succeed in a school setting. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8577,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,T. M.,1.0891412423578797,3.502641775239062,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,School grant proposal,\"I've been asked to come up with a grant proposal for a new 3D printer. My question is:\n\n\n What supporting components and training would be most beneficial to support educational use in a K-8 school? In other words what things am I missing in my list below? \n\n\nSpecific suggestions for things on my list that I may not have thought of are welcome too. A specific tool, etc.\n\nThe suggestion was to include a base proposal with stretch goals that include everything needed. \n\nMy current ideas are:\n\n\n3D Printer - option of a Prusa Mk3 or a Railcore 300ZLT. Possibly add another Prusa Mk3 kit as a stretch goal for students to assemble.\nReplacement and optional parts such as a hardened nozzle.\nTraining and professional development\nFilament - a variety of kinds such as PLA, ABS, flexible, conductive, etc.\nDry box or supplies to make one.\nHEPA filter.\nEnclosure - heated and/or soundproofed.\nMaintenance tools or supplies. Lubricant, etc.\n\n\",Dan Hulme,\"Your question doesn't have a lot of detail on how you use your existing printer (and I had to dig into the comments even to find out that you already have one: the question sounds like the grant would be for your first printer), so this is necessarily going to be generic suggestions, not all of which will apply to you.\n\nCAD software and training\n\nGetting the kids to download something from Thingiverse and print it out is great for the younger ones, but to really enable them to think as engineers, they need the tools to design their own things. Giving them access to real CAD tools, and the teaching support to use them, is hugely preferable. Fusion 360 is common in education (and with hobbyists) as the bargain option, but if they really want to see what's used in industry, Solidworks, Creo, or NX could be a worthwhile investment. You need to account not just for the software licence itself, but for training up your existing staff and/or hiring in some new skills. Even if you have volunteers from a local engineering company, there'll be the cost of background checks (DBS in the UK) or whatever process you need for volunteers.\n\nExotic filaments\n\nI'd say it's better to establish a budget for filaments and then spend it over the course of the year, instead of buying some interesting filaments up-front. Odds are, one of your students will come up with a project that wants a particular type of filament, but you won't know which until they do. Having a budget keeps your options open, while buying exotic filaments up-front creates a big risk you'll just never find a use for the particular ones you chose.\n\nSelf-assembly printers\n\nUnless you're planning to buy a new printer every year, assembling the printer is only going to be an activity for one cohort of students. Having your printer club put together the new printer can be a great add-on (and look good on your proposal), but only go for it if you need the printer anyway.\n\nThat said, since you already have a printer, you might consider one of the RepRap-based plans where you can print most of the parts. You might find that the bag of bits needed to make a RepRap is cheap enough that you actually can have the kids build one from scratch every year.\n\nNoise and smell abatement\n\n3D printers can be quite noisy and contribute to indoor air pollution. If you don't have a dedicated space for them, this may lead to having to agree to restrictions later on: e.g. no printing during class time, no printing while room is occupied, print room has to have the window open (so can't be used on rainy days). Depending on how budgets are in your school, maybe you can spend all your money now, and later on get an extra allocation from an H&S budget to fix any problems (e.g. by adding ventilation). But it might be easier to be honest up-front and include anything you'll need to make your printers good neighbours now.\n\nHardware for printed parts\n\nSome kinds of projects benefit from hardware that you can't print. For example, my old school ran a project where each student designed and built a clock, using an off-the-shelf clock mechanism and whatever material was lying around in the lab: sheet acrylic in various colours, plyboard, and softwoods. If you have any similar projects in mind - RC cars, kitchen timers - it might be worth thinking about specialised components now. Pin badge backers are always popular. Even if you aren't, a handful of threaded inserts, bolts and screws, hinges, rods, sandpaper, and primer will hugely increase the range of functional parts you can create.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7765,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,VarmintLP,0.0,3.3964611062631964,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Need help to only print one small part,\"I'm in dire need to reprint a small chunk of a print that got messed up during print because the support for it broke which I cannot explain whatsoever.\n\nAnyway. I need to edit the STL file and I don't know what tool to use since Blender is definitely not user friendly for just a simple cut and past.\n\nAnyone got an idea on what I should try to do? Reprinting is definitely out of question since that would take at least another 20 hours, that I haven't got, to reprint the whole thing and I would also just waste a lot of PLA.\n\",Trish,\"Most slicers like Cura allow doing a Z-Plane cut by pushing the model \"\"into\"\" the base or setting a negative Z position. This is usually very helpful if a print fails on a known layer.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7765,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,VarmintLP,0.0,3.3964611062631964,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Need help to only print one small part,\"I'm in dire need to reprint a small chunk of a print that got messed up during print because the support for it broke which I cannot explain whatsoever.\n\nAnyway. I need to edit the STL file and I don't know what tool to use since Blender is definitely not user friendly for just a simple cut and past.\n\nAnyone got an idea on what I should try to do? Reprinting is definitely out of question since that would take at least another 20 hours, that I haven't got, to reprint the whole thing and I would also just waste a lot of PLA.\n\",VarmintLP,\"Alright so I asked in my facebook group and a friendly fellow game me the tip to use Meshmixer from AutoCAD and then check a video on Plane cut. I only needed 3 simple cuts and the piece I needed was all ready to print. :) 40 Minutes to print and only 3g of PLA to spend :)\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n7781,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,nmk 456,1.0891412423578797,3.8160562480368836,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Cube edges squished?,\"I printed a test cube with ABS on my Ender 3 and after some tuning, I still have a problem I cannot solve. Two of the vertical edges (I believe they are the ones on the X+ side) are slightly squished in. Could this be due to warping or something else? I printed it at 0.1mm layer height, 235/110 hotend/bed temperatures.\n\nHere is a picture: \n\n\n\",Mark,\"The warping you see is caused by uneven cooling of the part as it's printed: the printbed keeps the bottom warm, while the middle cools, and the top is still warm from printing. The fix for this is to place the printer in an enclosure to prevent drafts and raise the air temperature.\n\nPeople have used all sorts of things as printer enclosures: everything from foil-lined cardboard boxes heated by the printbed, to fancy metal-and-glass constructions with active temperature control. \n\",0.0,0.0\n7781,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,nmk 456,1.0891412423578797,3.8160562480368836,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Cube edges squished?,\"I printed a test cube with ABS on my Ender 3 and after some tuning, I still have a problem I cannot solve. Two of the vertical edges (I believe they are the ones on the X+ side) are slightly squished in. Could this be due to warping or something else? I printed it at 0.1mm layer height, 235/110 hotend/bed temperatures.\n\nHere is a picture: \n\n\n\",0scar,\"If you look closely to your print you will see that the edges are part of the problem, e.g. you also have a problem called \"\"Elephant foot\"\" where the base shows a fairing to the build plate.\n\nThe elephant foot deficiency is caused by an imbalanced choice of bed and hotend temperature and print cooling. This imbalance also causes the edges to collapse (probably also caused by the infill, or lack of it).\n\nYou should look into finding a better printing temperature combo and experiment with little cooling. This will also help you to better print the rest of the cube.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7786,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ParticleRBK,2.528907649931287,4.108927526259478,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.8086301675739853,Can I print and sell 3D models licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0,\"Can I Print models from Sources like Thingiverse and sell them ?\nI will be only charging the print costs and will provide full credits and attributes to the original creator of the model (with links to their profiles) in my web-page.\n\nThere are websites like 3dhubs where the seller will print any file the user uploads. Similarly I want to charge only for the printing services. \n\",TextGeek,\"I am not an attorney, so this isn't legal advice. Like any legal question, you should consult with an actual attorney, who can consider all the gory details.\n\nThat said, it seems like you've got the BY and SA parts covered. \"\"Non-commercial\"\" is more difficult: does a sale that's not for profit count as \"\"commercial\"\"? \n\nThe Creative Commons site (https://creativecommons.org/faq/#does-my-use-violate-the-noncommercial-clause-of-the-licenses) explains it a bit more, as pasted below. But perhaps the best thing is to just drop an email to the originator and ask. Probably you'll get an email back saying it's fine; and who knows, maybe you'll make a new friend, too. I've been on both ends of exchanges like that, and it's generally worked just fine.\n\n\n Does my use violate the NonCommercial clause of the licenses?\n \n CC's NonCommercial (NC) licenses prohibit uses that are \"\"primarily\n intended for or directed toward commercial advantage or monetary\n compensation.\"\" This is intended to capture the intention of the\n NC-using community without placing detailed restrictions that are\n either too broad or too narrow. Please note that CC's definition does\n not turn on the type of user: if you are a nonprofit or charitable\n organization, your use of an NC-licensed work could still run afoul of\n the NC restriction, and if you are a for-profit entity, your use of an\n NC-licensed work does not necessarily mean you have violated the term.\n Whether a use is commercial will depend on the specifics of the\n situation and the intentions of the user.\n \n In CC's experience, it is usually relatively easy to determine whether\n a use is permitted, and known conflicts are relatively few considering\n the popularity of the NC licenses. However, there will always be uses\n that are challenging to categorize as commercial or noncommercial. CC\n cannot advise you on what is and is not commercial use. If you are\n unsure, you should either contact the rights holder for clarification,\n or search for works that permit commercial uses.\n \n CC has a brief guide to interpretation of the NC license that goes\n into more detail about the meaning of the NC license and some key\n points to pay attention to. Additionally, in 2008, Creative Commons\n published results from a survey on meanings of commercial and\n noncommercial use generally. Note that the results of the study are\n not intended to serve as CC's official interpretation of what is and\n is not commercial use under our licenses, and the results should not\n be relied upon as such.\n\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n7786,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ParticleRBK,2.528907649931287,4.108927526259478,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.8086301675739853,Can I print and sell 3D models licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0,\"Can I Print models from Sources like Thingiverse and sell them ?\nI will be only charging the print costs and will provide full credits and attributes to the original creator of the model (with links to their profiles) in my web-page.\n\nThere are websites like 3dhubs where the seller will print any file the user uploads. Similarly I want to charge only for the printing services. \n\",Trish,\"Preface\n\nI am Not a Lawyer, the stack does not give legal advice, consult a licensing lawyer and the maker to check your use is within the licensing agreeming or make a seperate one\n\nRead your license\n\nThe license CreativeCommons specifies BY-NC-SA as:\n\n\nBY = Attribute. You may share and modifiy it, as long as you tell who made it.\nNC = Non Commercial\nSA = Share Alike. You may not change the license\n\n\nNon Commercial\n\nThe Non Commercial clause explained in the FAQ says:\n\n\n CC's NonCommercial (NC) licenses prohibit uses that are \"\"primarily intended for or directed toward commercial advantage or monetary compensation.\"\" [...] Whether a use is commercial will depend on the specifics of the situation and the intentions of the user.\n \n [...] If you are unsure, you should either contact the rights holder for clarification, or search for works that permit commercial uses.\n\n\nIt also provides a CC-Wiki entry what NC is meant to be (pretty much the same as the FAQ), and a survey on it.\n\nWhat is NC?\n\nOk, let's look at the NC part of the CC... When is something breaking the NC license? As soon as it is \"\"primarily intended toward monetary gain\"\" it is commercial (short version), and any commercial use is prhibited. What is this? well, let's read the report...\n\n\n Specifically excluded from the prohibition against\n noncommercial use in the NC licenses is the exchange of a CC-licensed work for\n any other copyrighted work, whether by means of peer-to-peer digital file-sharing\n or otherwise, provided no monetary compensation is involved.p.17\n \n Most[significantly>50%] participants thought that “noncommercial use” had no\n legal definition, or were not sure. Some[<50%] participants believed noncommercial use to be\n more likely a fair use than not, and some conflated noncommercial use and fair\n use. Some participants also mentioned personal or private use as being both\n legally and pragmatically a noncommercial use, though they were not certain of\n any law defining “personal use.”p.30\n \n When asked to share their understandings of noncommercial use, no participant\n could provide a definition of noncommercial use that worked for everyone in their\n particular group, although there was much agreement on elements of many of\n the definitions. Through discussion, it emerged that creators take a variety of\n factors into account when determining what constitutes noncommercial use.\n These factors are often considered on a case-by-case basis[...]p.30\n \n However, participants across communities were able to articulate a list of factors\n they generally agreed as a group were relevant to creators’ understanding of\n whether a use of a work is commercial or noncommercial.p.31\n \n Qualitative Research Consideration Factorsp.31\n \n \n Perceived economic value of the content \n The status of the user as an individual, an amateur or professional, a for-profit or\n not-for-profit organization, etc. \n Whether the use makes money (and if\n so, whether revenues are profit or recovery of costs associated with\n use)\n Whether the use generates promotional value for the creator or\n the user\n Whether the use is personal or private\n Whether the use is\n for a charitable purpose or other social or public good\n Whether the\n use is supported by advertising or not\n Whether the content is used in\n part or in whole\n Whether the use has an impact on the market or is by\n a competitor\n \n\n\nOf particular interest are these paragraphs:\n\n\n Creators in the groups recognized that they consider some factors more\n important than others, and they also weigh the factors differently. Some consider\n certain factors to be “gatekeeping” questions, the answer to which settles the\n matter. Some creators consider a use commercial if there is any advertising in\n connection with it, for example. Others consider certain factors to be questions of\n degree. For example, some creators consider recovery of costs to distribute a\n work a noncommercial use, but not if salaries or other overhead are calculated\n as part of cost recovery. Rather than constituting a simple checklist, for many\n creators the factors exist within a matrix in which the type of use (for example,\n promotional or advertising use) and the context or community-based nature of\n the use (for example, charitable use, or use in a public school) are important\n vectors. In sum, the decision-making process is not clear-cut.p.32\n \n In the quantitative surveys for both Phase 2 (creators) and Phase 3 (users), the\n first mention of “noncommercial use” appears in an open-ended question asking\n respondents how they would define the difference between a commercial use\n and a noncommercial use of a work, in their own words and without consulting\n other sources. Creators and users provided an answer in the same ratio –\n approximately 7 in 10 from each group.p.49\n \n A\n large majority of both creators and users define a commercial use as one in\n which money is made (73% of creators, 76% of users). [...] Neither group expresses a majority consensus on an\n understanding of noncommercial use. [...] the most common mention of a\n noncommercial use by both creators and users is some use by an individual\n (19% of creators, 33% of users), including personal and private uses.p.50\n \n Gatekeeping Factorsp.54\n \n \n \n Making Money\n \n The figure below provides a visual summary of the anchor point exercise\n measuring responses to uses that make money.\n \n \n \n On the question of making money for cost recovery, creators think covering\n distribution costs only is slightly more commercial than covering operating costs,\n or raising money for an endowment fund. Users tend to agree, but overall see\n these uses as rather more commercial than creators.p.60\n\n\nConclusion\n\nContakt the maker that designed the part what is OK with them. But be warned: The broad idea the report gives is that around 3 of 4 of the makers and 4 of 5 users deem a \"\"For Profit-Company selling [a thing] to cover distribution costs\"\" as breaking the NC clause, as they deem it commercial use\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n7805,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mr. Octopus,2.1782824847157594,3.2106547363557154,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,How can I get a 3D model from a bunch of 2D photos?,\"I am a physics graduate student and I want to create some 3D models for my crystal samples. We have an X-ray diffractometer in our lab. It comes with a goniometer inside it, so basically I can take as many photos as needed from any angles. (I have included a gif animation made of 10 photos taken by the machine as an example below) \n\n\n\nMy problem is, given these 2D photos, am I able to construct 3D models for my crystals in AutoCAD or similar software so that I can determine angles, edge lengths and volume more precisely. \n\nI am new to 3D printing section. I just thought maybe someone here has encountered with a similar problem. It would be very helpful if anyone could tell me any Github codes, MATLAB scripts, Mathematica scripts or software that can finish this kind of job. I can try to figure it out myself.\n\",Trish,\"YES, it is possible to make a model from several shots, if you know the angle of rotation between the pictures.\n\nmost CAD programs allow to insert a picture, for example as backdrop or to trace it. We are interested in the later use:\n\nWe insert the picture, trace it in the picture's layer, then insert the next picture, rotated around the axis of rotation of the picture, and trace that. This we repeat again and again. The resulting cloud of outlines approximates the photographed body to a good degree.\n\nThere is a big caveat though: all photos must be in the same scale and distance, the rotation of the object has to be around one axis of the item itself (no wobble) and the rotation between the pictures has to be known quite exact. This principle is pretty much used by raster scanning by the way.\n\nWith a very hard contrast between the crystal and the backdrop, software might be able to automate the tracing process (for example use a white background and a black crystal and make sure no reflection hits the camera).\n\nExample using Fusion360\n\nLet's assume I have a perfect crystal like this octahedron with two cut tips\n\n\nTo model this, we need at least a photo of the XZ and YZ shape (that is, 90° rotation to each other), which look like this:\n\n\n\nBut that shape would also match a double-cone! So we'll need some intermediary photos, in this case, the 45° shot that lies on the plane of (XY-diagonal)Z Plane\n\n\n\nAs you see, the more outlines you have, the more detailed the pseudo-body becomes - it is just a gathering of vertices and lines yet though! But, we can take 3 points and create a construction area on these, then draw the face to merge all points on these faces...\n\n\n\nNow, we turn these construction faces into modeling faces, then create a too large object and cut out the whole thing out...\n\n\n\n\n\nThe whole workflow looked like this for 4 pictures (0°, 45°, 90°, 135°)\n\n\n\nThe actual f3D design file is here.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7805,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mr. Octopus,2.1782824847157594,3.2106547363557154,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,How can I get a 3D model from a bunch of 2D photos?,\"I am a physics graduate student and I want to create some 3D models for my crystal samples. We have an X-ray diffractometer in our lab. It comes with a goniometer inside it, so basically I can take as many photos as needed from any angles. (I have included a gif animation made of 10 photos taken by the machine as an example below) \n\n\n\nMy problem is, given these 2D photos, am I able to construct 3D models for my crystals in AutoCAD or similar software so that I can determine angles, edge lengths and volume more precisely. \n\nI am new to 3D printing section. I just thought maybe someone here has encountered with a similar problem. It would be very helpful if anyone could tell me any Github codes, MATLAB scripts, Mathematica scripts or software that can finish this kind of job. I can try to figure it out myself.\n\",UrQuan3,\"You may want to do a search for \"\"photogrammetry\"\". This is software that uses many photos to build a 3D model. Dr. Falkingham did a good review of free software on his blog:\n\nhttps://peterfalkingham.com/2016/09/14/trying-all-the-free-photogrammetry/\nhttps://peterfalkingham.com/2017/12/17/free-photogrammetry-software-review-2017/\n\nHis conclusion that works very well for me uses COLMAP to take the photos and build a point cloud, then OpenMVS to build and texture a mesh from the point cloud.\n\nhttps://colmap.github.io/\nhttps://github.com/cdcseacave/openMVS/wiki/Usage\n\nI have not used many commercial packages, but Pix4D has worked very well for me.\n\nhttps://www.pix4d.com/\n\nI hope that gets you started.\n\",0.0,0.0\n7811,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tech_Support,2.1782824847157594,3.6561754105338378,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,Limit Switch problems on RAMPS 1.4 and custom built 3D Printer running Marlin 1.1.0-rc6,\"So I am trying to fix a custom built 3D printer for my institute and am running into a problem I can't wrap my head around.\n\nSo the limit switches for Y-axis and Z-Axis work just fine, but the X-Axis does not. \n\nAll three switches are Makerbot (3-pin), and all three light up the LED when they get pressed. However the X-axis does not get recognized by Marlin. When I diagnose with M119 command it does not show as triggered even though the LED is on. All the other ones do.\n\nAll three switches are connected to min (X-min, Y-min, and Z-min).\n\nCould this be a firmware problem? Or perhaps my RAMPS 1.4 has burned out the X-axis signaling? (I doubt this because the LED on the switch still turns on).\n\nLet me know if you need any more info to diagnose the problem.\n\nP.S. I have also replaced the X-Axis limit switch with a brand new one and the same result happens: LED turns on upon activation but it doesn't get recognized by the machine.\n\",0scar,\"Your X endstops are working (unless they both are faulty, but the odds are small for that), but the signal change is not registered by the board. This could be a faulty port/pin of the Xmin port / attached microprocessor pin. What you could do to try to diagnose that is using the Xmax header on the board. In order to use that header for Xmin, you need to change some code in pins_RAMPS.h, change:\n\n\n//\n// Limit Switches\n//\n#define X_MIN_PIN 3\n#ifndef X_MAX_PIN\n #define X_MAX_PIN 2\n#endif\n\n\nto:\n\n\n//\n// Limit Switches\n//\n#define X_MIN_PIN 2\n#ifndef X_MAX_PIN\n #define X_MAX_PIN 3\n#endif\n\n\nRecompile and upload. Please use the latest sources, 1.1.9, 1.1.0 is very old.\n\",0.0,0.0\n7811,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tech_Support,2.1782824847157594,3.6561754105338378,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,Limit Switch problems on RAMPS 1.4 and custom built 3D Printer running Marlin 1.1.0-rc6,\"So I am trying to fix a custom built 3D printer for my institute and am running into a problem I can't wrap my head around.\n\nSo the limit switches for Y-axis and Z-Axis work just fine, but the X-Axis does not. \n\nAll three switches are Makerbot (3-pin), and all three light up the LED when they get pressed. However the X-axis does not get recognized by Marlin. When I diagnose with M119 command it does not show as triggered even though the LED is on. All the other ones do.\n\nAll three switches are connected to min (X-min, Y-min, and Z-min).\n\nCould this be a firmware problem? Or perhaps my RAMPS 1.4 has burned out the X-axis signaling? (I doubt this because the LED on the switch still turns on).\n\nLet me know if you need any more info to diagnose the problem.\n\nP.S. I have also replaced the X-Axis limit switch with a brand new one and the same result happens: LED turns on upon activation but it doesn't get recognized by the machine.\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"Considering you're having issues with the board, and the limit switches appear to be registering, but the board isn't doing anything about it, a first good step would be to update the firmware to 1.1.9 as @0scar states. If the update in the firmware doesn't do the trick, then move on to doing as he suggests with changing the Xmax/min stuff around. This just seems like a good first logical step to getting it fixed.\n\",0.0,0.0\n7812,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Muze the good Troll.,3.267423727073639,5.037962538797777,0.0,4.670422881206417,4.731113485304429,4.099094618364796,Can a 3D printer make a 3D printer?,\"Could you use a 3D printer to make a 3D printer's parts? What is the most of a 3D printer that can be made this way? Could parts that break be replaced this way?\n\",0scar,\"Yes, you can print most of the parts (electronics, linear guide rails, ball bearings and nuts and bolts, etc cannot be printed). Actually this was exactly the purpose of RepRap.org:\n\n\n RepRap is humanity's first general-purpose self-replicating\n manufacturing machine.\n\n\nand:\n\n\n Since many parts of RepRap are made from plastic and RepRap prints\n those parts, RepRap self-replicates by making a kit of itself - a kit\n that anyone can assemble given time and materials.\n\n\nThere have been attempts in the past to even replicate the frames of printers (e.g. Dollo 3D or Snappy, but such designs are not very successful, printed frames are more flexible than metal frames.\n\n\n\nI have built 2 custom printers myself using other printers to print parts and printed all printer parts for several others. It is possible to print your own linear bearings from POM, I prefer these over the noisy metal bearings.\n\n\",4.0548168669725735,0.0\n7812,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Muze the good Troll.,3.267423727073639,5.037962538797777,0.0,4.670422881206417,4.731113485304429,4.099094618364796,Can a 3D printer make a 3D printer?,\"Could you use a 3D printer to make a 3D printer's parts? What is the most of a 3D printer that can be made this way? Could parts that break be replaced this way?\n\",chess_lover_6,\"You can print some of it but not all, as 3d printers can't print metal or silicon to make the boards and frame.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7813,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Darryl Hadfield,2.528907649931287,5.108153139052682,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Z-Axis does not appear to be working on Ender-3 Pro,\"So, the wife got me a Creality Ender-3 Pro 3d Printer for Christmas.\n\nAssembly was easy, axis movements are all solid... when I go to print the test-dog.gcode file provided with the machine, it comes out looking... flat.\n\nNot kind of flat. TOTALLY flat.\n\nThe Z-Axis motor works - I can move it with the machine's control panel - and it moves on it's own for repositioning of the head for printing purposes, but it doesn't seem to be moving 'up' for each new layer. Layer height is set for 0.1 mm, nozzle is .4 mm. No settings changed in the G-code, or on the machine (and I did a \"\"reset to failsafe\"\" before attempting to print anything).\n\nI'm relatively new to additive manufacturing, can someone help out here?\n\n\n\",Trish,\"Check the following:\n\n\nIs the lead screw bent? remove it from the assembly and have it roll down a very slightly angled plate - if it rolls at uneven speed, it is bent.\nare the motor perfectly aligned with the brass nut? The lead screw needs to slot into the coupling without any force or need to move it just from gravity alone.\nis the Z-axis nut spin easily? I gave mine a droplet or two of machine oil, motor it up and down the whole length twice. Some residue grease from the factory can bind up the motor.\n\n\nIf all the physical side is known to be OK: re-slice your object, you might have faulty g-code.\n\",0.0,0.0\n7813,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Darryl Hadfield,2.528907649931287,5.108153139052682,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Z-Axis does not appear to be working on Ender-3 Pro,\"So, the wife got me a Creality Ender-3 Pro 3d Printer for Christmas.\n\nAssembly was easy, axis movements are all solid... when I go to print the test-dog.gcode file provided with the machine, it comes out looking... flat.\n\nNot kind of flat. TOTALLY flat.\n\nThe Z-Axis motor works - I can move it with the machine's control panel - and it moves on it's own for repositioning of the head for printing purposes, but it doesn't seem to be moving 'up' for each new layer. Layer height is set for 0.1 mm, nozzle is .4 mm. No settings changed in the G-code, or on the machine (and I did a \"\"reset to failsafe\"\" before attempting to print anything).\n\nI'm relatively new to additive manufacturing, can someone help out here?\n\n\n\",Darryl Hadfield,\"It turned out that there's something wrong with the G-code file that came with my printer.\n\nI downloaded a calibration cube from Thingiverse and printed it - while it wasn't 100%, it did print viable. Now I need to get into details as to quality, and I suspect that too will be a factor for the G-code used in the printer. I'm looking at \"\"Ultimaker Cura\"\" to figure out the changes in G-code based on option changes.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7818,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Surge,2.528907649931287,3.8056075277672616,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,TPU Filament in Dremel 3D20?,\"I recently got a Dremel 3D20, and I understand it only takes PLA filament according to the Dremel site. However, I was wondering if anyone has successfully used TPU filament or knows it will work fine. I’m more than happy to use other software to change the temperature, I just don’t want to gunk up or otherwise ruin my printer.\n\",Trish,\"TPU wants in general two things of your printer:\n\n\nA Printing Temperature of (over many makers) 195-230 °C\nA Direct Drive (extruder on the printhead)\n\n\n\n Bowden extruders are not ideal for printing flexible filaments such as NinjaFlex due to the excessive\n distance between the stepper motor and the extruder head. However, some users have generated\n successful prints using reduced speeds.ninjaflex handout\n\n\nCheck the temperature you can reach, and you are lucky, as some of the smaller Dremels use Bowden but the 3d20 is apparently direct drive.\n\nIf you want to try to run a Bowden with flexible filaments, dial down speed down really low (20-30 mm/s at most) and pray.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n7818,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Surge,2.528907649931287,3.8056075277672616,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,TPU Filament in Dremel 3D20?,\"I recently got a Dremel 3D20, and I understand it only takes PLA filament according to the Dremel site. However, I was wondering if anyone has successfully used TPU filament or knows it will work fine. I’m more than happy to use other software to change the temperature, I just don’t want to gunk up or otherwise ruin my printer.\n\",Sava,\"I've never used a Dremel printer, thus I cannot guarantee that my solution will work fine, but you might want to give a try to the Ultimaker Cura slicer. \n\nUltimaker printers have Bowden tubes, like the Dremel, unless I am mistaken, and I've been able to successfully print TPU on my Ultimaker 3 Extended printer. I also know that many Ultimaker users have printed using Ninjaflex without much problems on their Ultimaker machines, both old and new.\n\nUltimaker Cura comes with pre-programmed settings for TPU95, which is the Ultimaker brand of TPU, then I guess you'll have to fiddle a bit with settings to find what works best with your Dremel. Take a look around Ultimaker's forums, many users have other printers beyond their Ultimaker printers, you might be lucky and find some useful information. The 'search' feature of the forum works quite nicely.\n\nQuick summary of the settings for TPU95A in Ultimaker Cura for a 2.85 mm Bowden setup:\n\n\nLayer Height: 0.2mm\nPrinting Temperature: 225°C\nPrint Speed: 25 mm/s\nCooling Fan Speed: 20%\n\n\nDepending on how the Dremel performs and the quality of your TPU, you might want to disable retractions, it's been known to help.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7831,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ultra Gamer,1.726248027126092,4.869747038351551,2.7799718631987322,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How to remove exess filament from bed after removing model,\"Recently got an Anycubic I3 Mega Printer and I've been playing with what it can do, but after a model is done it leaves residue on the build plate behind that is bugging me. Do I NEED to remove it? If so, how? Thanks! (I'm using PLA if that matters)\n\nMy Problem: \n\n\n\",Sava,\"You should remove it because it can and will affect the quality of future prints. Residue can mix up with new filament and create a ugly of colors and also prevent adhesion in places, thus potentially ruining your next print.\n\nYou have several solutions to clean up the bed:\n\n\nScrape it off: usually works, but you risk chipping the surface if you're not careful or if you stumble upon a bit of residue that is stubborn and you need to apply strength to get rid of it. I think a scraper is included with the printer.\nSponge and soap: Since the bed cannot be removed, as far as I can tell, you'll need to make sure that the sponge isn't dripping or put towel paper around to avoid damaging the components below, including the heating unit. Rub it gently on the residue until it soften and detaches. It might take a bit to work.\nYellow glass cleaner from Karcher: my favourite, the one I use on my printer and it never failed me. Spray it on a cloth or something, and rub it on the bed until the residue softens and detaches. It might take a bit to work, but you don't run the risk of dripping liquid on any component, and it works way better than soap and without the risk of chipping the bed like when you use a scraper.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n10980,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ultra Gamer,2.1782824847157594,3.70361087347315,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,Reasons for a PLA print not sticking to bed all the sudden?,\"\nPlastic: Same Matterhacker PLA (filament I use every day)\nPrinter: Anycubic i3 Mega (the one I use every day)\nSlicer: Ultimaker Cura 4.2.1\n\n\nI don't know what's causing it, I haven't changed any slicer settings to my knowledge, I haven't changed anything on the printers end, and I'm using the same filament I've always used. But for some reason, the first layer is simply not sticking. At first I noticed when doing a print the nozzle seemed a little higher than normal for the first layer, but then it started having problems where 0 % of the filament would stick to the bed and it would all just come off and turn into a mess. I've checked and checked, but I see no reason the printer would just start doing this now all the sudden when it's worked perfectly for a year now.\n\n\n\nEDIT: Something I've noticed since posting this is that older sliced models seem to print just fine, which means there's something about the newser slicer settings that's causing it. I don't know what I would have changed though and/or how to restore to my original settings.\n\",Trish,\"There are 3 general factors about print adhesion you always have to keep in mind:\n\n\nHave a sufficient surface for the print to stick. A pyramid printed on the tip can't print properly.\nCheck the leveling of your bed occasionally and relevel the bed. By removing prints, one can easily unlevel it over time without noticing.\nClean your printbed from fingerprints and grease every so often. Fats re good separators between the print and the bed, getting them off with Isopropyl alcohol or other solvents can restore print surfaces in an instant.\n\n\nIn this specific case, there is obe hint that makes the general things less of an issue though: Old sliced items print fine newer not. This hints that you changed something in the print settings. Among the settings that are good for adhesion, check you old g-code for the following three:\n\n\nBed temperature. I use 60°C Bed temperature for PLA and have good results on bed adhesion. Others print with 50°C. However, going too low will make the plastic not stick.\nExtrusion temperature. When the plastic extrudes, it has to solidify enough to stick to the surface of the bed. If it is too hot, it would be dragged along.\nfirst layer height might be different. I usually use 0.2 mm for this setting, no matter what the actual layer height is and get a good adhesion.\nThe reason might be a mechanical issue, in that the Z-endstops (in an Anycubic i3, there are two, hidden in the frame sides) might have bent, moved or misaligned over time. Check its positioning. If the mount is broken, there are replacement part designs.\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n10980,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ultra Gamer,2.1782824847157594,3.70361087347315,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,Reasons for a PLA print not sticking to bed all the sudden?,\"\nPlastic: Same Matterhacker PLA (filament I use every day)\nPrinter: Anycubic i3 Mega (the one I use every day)\nSlicer: Ultimaker Cura 4.2.1\n\n\nI don't know what's causing it, I haven't changed any slicer settings to my knowledge, I haven't changed anything on the printers end, and I'm using the same filament I've always used. But for some reason, the first layer is simply not sticking. At first I noticed when doing a print the nozzle seemed a little higher than normal for the first layer, but then it started having problems where 0 % of the filament would stick to the bed and it would all just come off and turn into a mess. I've checked and checked, but I see no reason the printer would just start doing this now all the sudden when it's worked perfectly for a year now.\n\n\n\nEDIT: Something I've noticed since posting this is that older sliced models seem to print just fine, which means there's something about the newser slicer settings that's causing it. I don't know what I would have changed though and/or how to restore to my original settings.\n\",JayCrossler,\"This seems like a long-shot, but I've noticed at this time of year many 3D prints fail. We noticed 4 printers all went dead and had massive non-stick issues last year about this time. Turns out it was mostly around changes in temperature and humidity - the outside temperature changed inside AC settings/wind-flow, etc.\n\nSo, you might think through some of the meta-causes of where the printer is, and if temp/air/humidity might be just enough chaos to not make the material stick. Right in September, I start putting a light layer of glue down on the glass bed under each print or increasing the use of rafts...\n\",0.0,0.0\n7835,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dmitry Paranyushkin,2.528907649931287,2.917283834062601,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,I want to print an image of a network in 3D — what's the best way to convert it?,\"Suppose I have an image like this below that I want to print in 3D. What would be the best format to convert it in?\n\n\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Unfortunately, with only a .PNG or other file format that is traditionally two dimensional, you are missing some critical information. Unless your objective is to print something \"\"flat with thickness,\"\" you can't create a 3D model. If your objective is to print something flat with thickness, even a program such as Inkscape with the Path to OpenSCAD extension will accomplish your goal. \n\nI believe that Tinkercad will import images and allow you to extrude them to create the thickness aspect. Another program which supports such activity is Fusion360 (free for hobbyists) which would convert your drawing to a sketch. You'd have to add some width to the lines in order to extrude them in any program you select. It will also be necessary to trace the drawing to convert it to a vector file type. Inkscape excels in this task.\n\nLastly, you can arbitrarily add a third dimension to the diagram by importing it with SolveSpace. It is another free program which allows one to import a DXF file. Note that DXF is a vector file not raster, excluding your existing PNG format. It might be easier to use Inkscape to create the vector file, add width to the lines, then save it in DXF form and load it to SolveSpace. At that point, it becomes extremely challenging due to the complexity of the drawing.\n\nPerhaps a hint or two (image, sketch, drawing) of your final objective?\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n7839,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Megasaur,3.0576060275493275,4.197561973883101,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Sandable primer suitable for PLA?,\"What kind of primer should I be using for my PLA prints?\n\nI want to be able to sand the object after applying the primer for a smooth finish before painting.\n\nWould something like this work?\n\nhttps://www.bunnings.com.au/dulux-duramax-325g-plastic-primer-spray-paint_p1400720\n\",Trish,\"There are generally 2 types of operation you might want to do before priming your object:\n\n\nsmoothing to a point that you are comfy with and \nroughing pass with very fine grit to give the primer something to stick to\n\n\nSmoothing via Sanding & Filler\n\nTo smooth your object you generally have two options: \n\n\nOnly sand down (and possibly vapor-smooth) and account for the lost size in the design phase. \n\n\nVapor-smoothing can flatten away surface details you might want to preserve, so it might not be an option at all.\nWhile vapor smoothing is possible with more than just Acetone on ABS, the price tag for those chemicals is usually more expensive by a factor of 20 or more due to the fact that Acetone is pretty much dirt cheap as far as chemicals go - and easily accessible via home depot.\n\nFill up with body filler in areas you want and sand smooth afterward.\n\n\nThis is very labor intensive, especially for complex shapes.\n\n\n\nOnly after you filled up the structure to be somewhat smooth you apply paint primer. In itself, common spray on primers often are not filling enough to hide away the printing layers.\n\nFor rough surfaces that need a starting fill, a paste body filler applied with a spatula works best, and for the last pass over a just lightly scratched surface, automotive body filler from a spray can works great. The benefit of spray-can body filler is, that it also acts as a first roughing step, so you don't need to roughen the surface for the primer. If you grab a filler-primer, even skip the primer.\n\nSidenote from experience:\n\nSome filler-primer and lacquer spray cans seem to contain solvents that are able to soften PLA.\n\nSmoothing via Coating\n\nA random find on Thingiverse showed me another way to paint and flatten the surface faster and without sanding, at the cost of details getting smoothed away:\n\n\nApply a thin paint coat.\nApply a thin coat of a fast drying, transparent Polyurethane coating onto the wet paint.\nLet the combined layers dry with extra air flow to prevent noses.\nRepeat as needed.\n\n\nIt works by picking up the wet paint and embedding it into the thicker Polyurethane layer, which dries much smoother than the paint itself, filling up the imperfections and the steps between layers. This process will however also fill up non-masked surface details you might want to preserve.\n\nYour product in mind\n\nThe primer you took a look at works on PLA, but it would not smooth out all the dimples. It might work nicely for the PU-Buildup variant.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n7845,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Erik Blomberg,3.0576060275493275,5.556125318719914,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,How to format an SD card for Monoprice Select Mini V2?,\"I bought a 32 GB SDHC (Sandisk) I'd like to use for my Monoprice 3D printer.\nI have downloaded Partition Wizard and partitioned a 2GB primary partition formatted as FAT and it still does not show any files. \n\nWhat am I doing wrong?\n\",0scar,\"For an SD card to work with the printer firmware Monoprice suggests to format the SD card to FAT32.\n\nHowever, the Monoprice Select Mini V2 is not able to read SDHC memory cards, it is advised to use an SD card (smaller than 4 GB) instead.\n\nAccording to the Monoprice support website: \"\"Why is my printer not reading my SD card?\"\":\n\n\n If the SD card is not recognized on the printer or if the files are\n not reading, it could be an issue with the actual card itself. The\n first thing we recommend checking is that none of the print files on\n the SD card contain a space in their name. This shows in the printer\n as an unidentified character and can cause issues. If none of your\n prints contain spaces, we recommend reformatting your SD card.\n \n Note: If you choose to purchase an SD card, please make sure that it\n is not labeled HC (High Capacity) as it may not be compatible with the\n printer. This means that the card must be smaller than 4GB in size.\n\n\nThe last part of the support page is probably applicable to your card.\n\nSome further information can be found in What is the largest microSD card that a Monoprice Select Mini can read?, specifically this answer. From this latter answer, I quote:\n\n\n Cards between 2 GB and 32 GB might work, depending on the specifics of\n the card\n\n\nBasically there are no guarantees when using large cards.\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n7845,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Erik Blomberg,3.0576060275493275,5.556125318719914,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,How to format an SD card for Monoprice Select Mini V2?,\"I bought a 32 GB SDHC (Sandisk) I'd like to use for my Monoprice 3D printer.\nI have downloaded Partition Wizard and partitioned a 2GB primary partition formatted as FAT and it still does not show any files. \n\nWhat am I doing wrong?\n\",Ronald Wayne,\"I was having problems formatting micro SD cards for my Monoprice Mini v2. I have some 256 MB cards tried formatting them FAT FAT32 etc, no luck.\n\nThen I downloaded a program called SD Memory Card Formatter did the format on the card with this and the card is now readable in the printer.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7855,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,LiNKeR,3.9045305118418514,5.545023721812258,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,5.492652660814412,6.16545263691553,Can I 3D-print print a PET bottle?,\"I want to print a transparent PET bottle for my homemade lemonades and thought about 3D-printing them.\n\nI would like the printed bottle's quality to be as fine as a Coca-Cola PET bottle for coke and the printing substrate or material be something that's cheap or readily available. I thought I might recycle some old PET bottles to print the custom one for my lemonades as I don't want something that would require me buying new materials or re-exporting from the manufacturer.\n\nIs it possible to recycle PET and print it into food-certified containers?\n\",Trish,\"No, due to 3 reasons\n\nPET is not (easily) printable.\n\nThere is a lot of confusion on what Filaments you can buy: most times filament branded PET is actually PETG, sometimes PETT.\n\nPET is not an easily printable material at all. With expert knowledge and the right machine settings it can be printed, but even then, it is not as easily recyclable into a useable 3D-printer-filament as you might think. You need full reprocessing capabilities, which means the need for machinery to allow thorough cleaning, grinding to dust, melting it up, pelletizing and finally extrusion as a fresh filament.\n\nThe closest related material that is easily printable is PETG, a modified PET that also contains glycol. You can't convert PET into PETG with home or hobbyist applications at all - they are totally different in their chemical behavior, even as just one material was added in production. PETG is not brittle like PET, it does not haze on heating, but it ages in UV light, scratches easily and can't be autoclaved like PET. But the chemical modification has to be done during the initial manufacturing of the material, and it is a huge mess to try to recycle the two together, which can and will happen if you try to work with material you source from recycling.\n\n\n “When they’re processed together, PETG melts and becomes sticky while PET remains solid. PETG sticks to PET chips and forms large clumps that pose processing problems.” Resource Recycling (magazine/blog)\n\n\n3D printed objects are very unlikely to become food certified.\n\nYou can't easily manufacture (certified) food-rated printed products, like food containers due to the requirements that a machine that manufactures food-certified products needs to comply to. I advise looking at this answer regarding food rating for more elaboration.\n\nIt is hard to print really transparent with FDM.\n\nDue to the method how FDM works - extruding lines next to each other - it is often impossible to print fully transparent objects right of the bat - there is almost always air inside a printed object, and there are so many boundaries between the extrusion paths that refract and change the photon paths that the best one can achieve somewhat easily is translucent (=semi-transparent). Read this answer for further information.\n\nBut if you manage to get the object really solid, you might get some near-transparent, icy results from some orientations while looking in others still will look matte.\n\nTo get them fully transparent you then will have to post-process them to become fully transparent by grinding the surface up to 4000 grit, but that is very labor intensive and most likely not possible for the inside of a bottle. To be clear, you spend hours polishing one surface.\n\nCould it be economic in the slightest?\n\nOn a side tangent, the viability of printing a bottle via buying new ones will need to be expored. Shapped PET Bottles with caps start at \\$0.01 per piece and top out at \\$1 per piece - you get the better prices if you order in larger quantities. You will have to compete with getting under \\$1 per bottle, or rather with what the price of a typical bottle you want is.alibaba.com\n\nA typical PET bottle ordered from China weighs 30 g for a 300 ml bottle, and the particular example I looked at comes \\$0.22 to \\$0.28, depending on the bottle cap, with a minimum order of one parcel with something around 300 items. That seems to be in the average range.\n\nA roll of 1 kg of PET(G?) filament starts at ~\\$30 at the moment. That is the weight of 33 shaped bottles per roll. Your print will most likely be heavier than the blown up bottle to get it watertight, but let's just assume you might manage the same weight. Then it's about \\$0.90 in the material alone - so we are at more than 300% of a bought product with cap already!\n\nAtop that comes the running cost of the printer, which depends on your print time, printer and electricity price. I know my hobbyist machine comes, maintenance and electricity combined, down to 0.21€/h, so roughly \\$0.25. Printing a bottle will take several hours.\n\nPET preforms that can be blown up to almost any bottle shape, type and size and ship much cheaper come to prices due to better density. Which means you compete against \\$0.015 to \\0.15 per bottle in material costs.\n\nConclusion\n\nIt is not economically viable to even attempt to print bottles beyond a prototyping stage.\n\",4.707496601523386,2.0769199823829045\n7860,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chris Bloom,2.1782824847157594,3.325948129527765,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How can I decrease the thickness of a wall in an STL file?,\"There seem to be a lot of search results answering the question of how to increase wall thickness, but how can I decrease wall thickness? I have an STL model of a mechanical keyboard key where the outside dimensions are correct, but the walls are slightly too thick so the key gets stuck in the down position. I'd like to shave some of the thickness off of the inside of the walls to better match the original key I'm replacing, while leaving the rest of the model dimensions as-is. How can I go about doing this? I consider myself technical in general, though I'm a novice at 3d modeling software.\n\",Trish,\"The process is rather simple:\n\n\nimport your model into either a modeling software (e.g. Blender et al.) or a CAD-program (e.g. fusion360, Design Spark Mechanical et al.) that can import and export STL.\n\n\nif needed, convert the STL into a useable model with your chosen program's functions or switch to edit mode.\n\nselect inner walls and extrude them the desired amount.\nexport as STL again.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7877,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Showy Z ,1.0891412423578797,2.917283834062601,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,How to build a CT scan into a printable 3D model?,\"I have a set of 2D pictures from a CT scan.\n\nHow can I convert them into a 3D model for 3D printing? An example looks like this:\n\n\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Using the terms \"\"convert CT scan to 3D model,\"\" I found a number of links of tutorials. One of them is described as free, with registration and appears to be web based. The link, Embodi3D, appears to have a relatively comprehensive set of instructions to accomplish your goal.\n\nInstructables also has a similar tutorial. Should neither of these prove suitable, the search terms above may be of value.\n\nImage below via Instructables:\n\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n7877,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Showy Z ,1.0891412423578797,2.917283834062601,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,How to build a CT scan into a printable 3D model?,\"I have a set of 2D pictures from a CT scan.\n\nHow can I convert them into a 3D model for 3D printing? An example looks like this:\n\n\n\",Trish,\"Knowing the layer thickness, you can manually re-engineer/design the object:\n\n\ntake your CAD or 3D modeling program of choice\n\n\nimport one picture into the XY axis\ntrace the outline on that layer\nadd a construction layer one layer thickness above\n\nRinse 1-3 and repeat for all layers.\nCombine the outlines, method depending on your program \n\n\nthis might be quite easy in blender if you add the new layer by extruding the previous one up by one layer thickness and just move the vertices to match the new outline\n\nfinally, export the model as .stl depending on your program, slice and print.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7891,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,n0rd,2.528907649931287,4.269371406068174,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.531698478710706,Printing rectangular grid,\"I am trying to print an item with a rectangular grid (using PLA on Ultimaker 2+):\n\n\n\nHoles are 4x4 mm, distance between holes (wall thickness): 1mm. I am printing with 0.4 mm nozzle.\n\nUnfortunately, Ultimaker Cura generates G-code which prints each rectangle on its own and in a quite a bad way:\n\n\n\nThe printer head tries to draw a rectangle, then moves in the direction opposite to a last laid line, which with not perfect adhesion of single line messes up the print pretty badly: it often picks up last rectangle side and drags it.\n\nAny way to change the way Ultimaker Cura approaches to lay out the grid? I would imagine that long lines that are connected to other lines would adhere to bed much better than individual squares, but I don't see any options that would allow to alter it.\n\",Trish,\"Slicers never create a grid by crossing the already printed lines - they print perimeters and thicken them into a shell. So if the picture that is to be printed is a #, it does not lay down first the || and then the = crossing over it, it lays down an inner square and then builds the rest to get to the shape. This operation rule is held for shells, but not for infill patterns.\n\nAs you describe the printer picking up the printed, you have adhesion problems and your first layer might be not level or too thick. \n\nYou might also want to enable \"\"print thin walls\"\" and use 2 or 3 perimeters.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n7891,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,n0rd,2.528907649931287,4.269371406068174,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.531698478710706,Printing rectangular grid,\"I am trying to print an item with a rectangular grid (using PLA on Ultimaker 2+):\n\n\n\nHoles are 4x4 mm, distance between holes (wall thickness): 1mm. I am printing with 0.4 mm nozzle.\n\nUnfortunately, Ultimaker Cura generates G-code which prints each rectangle on its own and in a quite a bad way:\n\n\n\nThe printer head tries to draw a rectangle, then moves in the direction opposite to a last laid line, which with not perfect adhesion of single line messes up the print pretty badly: it often picks up last rectangle side and drags it.\n\nAny way to change the way Ultimaker Cura approaches to lay out the grid? I would imagine that long lines that are connected to other lines would adhere to bed much better than individual squares, but I don't see any options that would allow to alter it.\n\",0scar,\"This sounds like you have an adhesion problem if it catches laid down filament, you might want to address that first. E.g. use a PVA based glue or spray to get better adhesion. This will result in not dragging laid down filament. \n\nTo my knowledge, Ultimaker Cura has no option to choose how you print the squares (direction and start point). However, you could use Z-hop so that it will lift your nozzle (or lower your build plate in your case) prior to moving to the next rectangle.\n\nIt looks as though you are using an older version of Ultimaker Cura as it only prints one line of each of the small rectangular holes (or are you actually using a single wall/shell), in later versions of Ultimaker Cura this is fixed (e.g. the image below is created with Ultimaker Cura 3.4.1), it will print all walls/shells before commencing to the next small rectangular hole. This way you have more lines deposited which have a possible better adhesion to the increase of laid down material:\n\n\n\nFurther investigation of your image shows that you are using a very fine grating (< 1 mm?) resulting in very limited amount of walls. In your case the version is not that important, but the latter information is just left as a possibility for people that use an older version of Ultimaker Cura.\n\nAlso note that there is an option to put the brim on the inside of your models (option called Brim Only on Outside), when disabled, this would also increase the surface area for better adhesion.\n\n\n\nThere are also option available to start with the outer or inner wall (option Outer Before Inner Walls), but in this case that would not help you as there is only 1 wall at each side of the rectangular hole.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n7913,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user3335963,1.726248027126092,4.964114711551995,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,X and Y homing issues,\"I get an error: printer halted. (kill() called! Any time I home my machine's X or Y axis. I have just installed a 3D touch auto bed level sensor, ironically it works fine. I was using Sprinter firmware but it doesn't support auto bed level, so thus I'm using Marlin. I am using the latest version of Marlin and it gave me nothing but issues, printer wouldn't move or home at all. I used the latest Marlin 1.1.x bug fix edition (1.1.9) and now everything is working correctly except X and Y homing, the machine throws the error: printer halted. (kill() called! on Repetier-Host.\n\nWhen I use the M119 command all endstops (optical, not mechanical) show as open unless triggered, the endstops are working correctly. When I home the X and or Y it will do as it should and stop when it hits the endstop but that is when the errors pop up and the printer freezes/no longer to gives commands without disconnecting and reconnecting to the printer again.\n\nIf I home my Z axis it will deploy the probe and come down and touch the bed 2x and no error code and I can still manually move the printer around with the program movements after homing Z axis. I'm not sure what would cause this to happen only on X and Y but any help would be appreciated.\n\nI use Repetier-Host but I downloaded Printrun just to see what would happen and it shows the exact same effect/errors. I also tried the Marlin bugfix 2.0 and it gave the same errors too.\n\",0scar,\"Without the images of how you connected the endstops, the best guess for your problem is that the endstops cause a short circuit, once pressed, the microprocessor trips and shuts down. If you provide more information, other people may even add better answers based on your added information.\n\nE.g. how is everything connected at both sides of the cable (board and endstop), does the message occur when you press an endstop, maybe it is even wise to add a link to your configuration files. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7913,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user3335963,1.726248027126092,4.964114711551995,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,X and Y homing issues,\"I get an error: printer halted. (kill() called! Any time I home my machine's X or Y axis. I have just installed a 3D touch auto bed level sensor, ironically it works fine. I was using Sprinter firmware but it doesn't support auto bed level, so thus I'm using Marlin. I am using the latest version of Marlin and it gave me nothing but issues, printer wouldn't move or home at all. I used the latest Marlin 1.1.x bug fix edition (1.1.9) and now everything is working correctly except X and Y homing, the machine throws the error: printer halted. (kill() called! on Repetier-Host.\n\nWhen I use the M119 command all endstops (optical, not mechanical) show as open unless triggered, the endstops are working correctly. When I home the X and or Y it will do as it should and stop when it hits the endstop but that is when the errors pop up and the printer freezes/no longer to gives commands without disconnecting and reconnecting to the printer again.\n\nIf I home my Z axis it will deploy the probe and come down and touch the bed 2x and no error code and I can still manually move the printer around with the program movements after homing Z axis. I'm not sure what would cause this to happen only on X and Y but any help would be appreciated.\n\nI use Repetier-Host but I downloaded Printrun just to see what would happen and it shows the exact same effect/errors. I also tried the Marlin bugfix 2.0 and it gave the same errors too.\n\",user3335963,\"I apologize I should have got back with you guys sooner. I downloaded a fresh copy of the Marlin firmware again and pulled up the Sprinter config.H folder. Since the firmwares are very similar I was able to just glance at my Sprinter firmware and noticed certain endstops for my optical endstops required \"\"pull ups\"\" to correctly work. I thought I had tried this before but either I did some thing wrong the first time or I didn't save the changes, who knows. Thanks to every one trying to help.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7914,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,joshuac,0.0,3.45160860920807,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.551027839747059,What is this material?,\"In the context of a personal project I would like to reproduce the appearance of a commercial product of which I send you a cropped image.\n\nI would also like to point out that I do not have the object in question, but it would seem that it is made from a polymer. \n\nThe product is a case with an embedded electronical card, so heat dissipation is important.\n\nI'm interested by what kind of plastic is really used here. I plan to have the part manufactured by a company, so I think the method used will be SLS\n\nI therefore rely on your expertise in the field of 3D printing to try to identify the material used.\n\n\n\nThanks\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"Surface finish does not really map to the substrate material, Visually, what you have shown could be glass, ceramic, plastic, epoxy or metal.\n\nThe surface finish is a combination of the shaping process, any post processing, and any surface finishing. Most significantly, there are a wide variety of custom paints which are designed to mimic specific surface finishes. This means you could carve an object out of clay, then spray it to give the appearance of being sand-blasted steel (to give a specific example).\n\nThe underlying material is mostly irrelevant to the appearance. It will be driven by mechanical/thermal considerations (is this a mock-up, or does it need to have functional wall-thickness), and production volume/cost considerations (is it a one off, or are you making hundreds/millions)?\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7914,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,joshuac,0.0,3.45160860920807,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.551027839747059,What is this material?,\"In the context of a personal project I would like to reproduce the appearance of a commercial product of which I send you a cropped image.\n\nI would also like to point out that I do not have the object in question, but it would seem that it is made from a polymer. \n\nThe product is a case with an embedded electronical card, so heat dissipation is important.\n\nI'm interested by what kind of plastic is really used here. I plan to have the part manufactured by a company, so I think the method used will be SLS\n\nI therefore rely on your expertise in the field of 3D printing to try to identify the material used.\n\n\n\nThanks\n\",avc,\"If you want to 3D print this, you could try post processing with some acrylic or fiber glass filler, and then use some stone texture spray paint like this one.\n\nEdit: SLS printing will never be heat efficient, if that product (in your example image) is an electronic case, it was either machined or molded, and the finish is some sort of paint with a ruff or stone like finish.\n\nHowever, you might be able to pull it of with air flow redesign, and as long as the temperature does not exceed the glass transition temperature of the thermoplastic or resin used, you should not face any deformations on the case.\n\",0.0,0.0\n7915,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,maxwell,0.0,3.071923460387521,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Font suitable for 3D printing,\"I am looking for a font, which is connected and has a good line width (so that it can be 3D printed). Something like in the image below:\n\n\n\nSomething like in the image above would be great, but I don't know the name. Do you have a suggestion for a font?\n\",Mick,\"That particular font is Sarina Regular and is part of the Google Fonts collection. Just Google \"\"connected handwritten fonts\"\" to find more. Kimberly Geswein does a good selection of handwritten fonts. A lot of them are constant width, but most are unconnected.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n7943,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,jesvin palatty,1.726248027126092,3.3819507842569205,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,How does a 3D printer software/firmware work,\"I have been working on a printer project that basically is a 2D printer (dot matrix type). We are using solenoids as actuators to make impressions on the paper. We are now in the process of designing custom software. But a problem that we have encountered is that we have no idea how to design software as we are a bunch of beginners in this field.\n\nAn idea we are working on is based on position-acknowledge technique. In this technique the computer sends G-code to the controller. The controller after reaching the position defined in code sends an acknowledgement and the computer then sends the next signal. This is the model we are currently working on. \n\n\nCan anyone suggest any other ideas to make this work? \nIs Our approach right? \nDo 3D printers work using same technique?\n\n\",Trish,\"3D printer firmware use gcode that is derived from CNC and no acknowledgment. They send movement commands to the stepper motors like G1 X10 Y10 to move the printhead 10 mm along the X and Y.\n\nYou could use a ready 3D printer firmware like Marlin on a 3d printer board and use the X-axis or extruder output to couple to your solenoid, sending a G1 Z0.1 or G1 E0.1, which will actuate it for a short time. You might even use E and Z on different solenoids.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n7943,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,jesvin palatty,1.726248027126092,3.3819507842569205,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,How does a 3D printer software/firmware work,\"I have been working on a printer project that basically is a 2D printer (dot matrix type). We are using solenoids as actuators to make impressions on the paper. We are now in the process of designing custom software. But a problem that we have encountered is that we have no idea how to design software as we are a bunch of beginners in this field.\n\nAn idea we are working on is based on position-acknowledge technique. In this technique the computer sends G-code to the controller. The controller after reaching the position defined in code sends an acknowledgement and the computer then sends the next signal. This is the model we are currently working on. \n\n\nCan anyone suggest any other ideas to make this work? \nIs Our approach right? \nDo 3D printers work using same technique?\n\n\",0scar,\"Are you interested in receiving the instructions correctly, or interested in how the instructions are executed by the hardware? This answer doesn't go into the software communication between controller board and software that sends the instruction from another software/hardware platform (see this answer), this answer addresses the positioning/movement. \n\nMost of current 3D printers do not track the position of the print head. The software instructs the head to go somewhere, but it never checks if it actually arrives at that exact position. Problems like missing steps of the stepper or skipping notches on the belt are not detected and the printer will continue thinking it has reached the position.\n\nSkipping of belts is a mechanical issue and should not occur (nor can be detected unless there are stepper steps missed), but skipping of steps is something that can be detected by certain type of stepper drivers (trinamic). Steppers do not use a feedback loop to check the final position. Servos, opposed to steppers, use a feedback loop, and as such are able to reach the position as instructed, but this comes a an increased cost, servo's are more expensive and hence not found in most of the \"\"cheaper\"\" 3D printing machines.\n\nIt is up to the designer of a 3D machine to choose the motors for the positioning system, if it is not highly loaded, you go for steppers without a feedback loop, or in higher loaded machines for servo's (basically steppers with some positioning electronics for the feedback). In case of a stepper you hope that it reaches the destination you tell it to go to, for a servo, you known that it reaches that exact position. \n\nTo get back on topic of your question, there is no feedback on reaching the position (you call this acknowledgement), you just send the G-codes sequentially or in a buffer to the printer electronics which executes the statements one at the time (this is done by the firmware, this this answer for replies of the machine on the code it receives). It is your choice of the hardware that actually determines whether this is executed like instructed. Do note that most machines are not highly loaded (the 3D printhead is not very heavy and normally does not hit any obstruction in its path as Z advances) justifying the use of steppers without the need for feedback. CNC machines, certainly the larger ones, that position a highly loaded cutting tool need such a feedback loop as the positioning needs to be very exact. You need to consider the forces at play in your paper punch machine, but from my point of view, your machine does not seem to be highly loaded. In such a case you are not in need for a more expensive positioning system, nor the need for the processing of a return/feedback signal in your custom software.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7953,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,LinuxDisciple,1.726248027126092,4.285226429075837,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Cura doesn't slice,\"I can launch Cura with no issues, it runs fine. I can import objects and change settings, but when I click 'slice' it doesn't even show a progress bar on 3.6.0 and on v4 it shows a progress bar but there's never any progress.\nI've looked in %appdata%\\cura\\4.0\\cura.log and it just stops at an entry like this:\n\n\n 2019-01-11 20:38:46,714 - DEBUG - [MainThread] CuraEngineBackend.CuraEngineBackend._onStartSliceCompleted [430]: Sending slice message took 0.7397589683532715 seconds\n\n\nI looked in task manager and the system idle process has >95% cpu (cpu is almost completely idle), and like I said I can use Cura just fine (no stuttering when I rotate objects).\n\",LinuxDisciple,\"The culprit was ZoneAlarm firewall.\nCura runs and talks to another executable (CuraEngine.exe) for slicing, and ZoneAlarm never asked me whether CuraEngine should have the access it needed, so it got blocked.\n\nHere are the steps I took to fix it:\n\n\nOpen ZoneAlarm\nclick the firewall tab\nclick where it says \"\"X programs secured\"\"\nunder \"\"View Programs\"\" you'll see a bunch of program names. It takes a while for my list to populate, you may have to wait a minute here.\nFind the entry for cura.exe (you can order them by alpha) and set \"\"Outbound Trusted\"\" to Allow\nFind the entry for \"\"Slicing engine for Cura\"\" (that's how CuraEngine.exe is listed). Set \"\"Outbound Internet\"\" to \"\"Allow\"\" and set \"\"Inbound Trusted\"\" to \"\"Allow\"\" (this will implicitly set \"\"Outbound Trusted\"\" to \"\"Allow\"\" as well).\nClick \"\"OK\"\"\n\n\nYou should be good to go. I didn't even have to restart Cura. I just hit 'cancel' on that slice and then clicked 'slice' again and it worked.\n\nFrom my testing, the settings in 5. and 6. are the minimum you can allow and still get it to work.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n7957,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,JPFrancoia,1.726248027126092,3.3964611062631964,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Gap between infill and walls for one filament only,\"When I'm printing with my Chromatik filament white, 1.75 mm in diameter, I observe a gap between the infill and the walls (see picture).\n\nEverywhere on the web I can find explanations for this kind of problem (apparently it's the symptom of loose belts), but I have this problem for this filament only. I have the filaments Chromatik electric blue and Octofiber black and I don't have this issue with them. I tried to increase the temperature by ~10 °C, but it didn't have much effect.\n\nHave you ever seen that guys? I repeat, it's with this filament only.\n\n\n\",0scar,\"I have observed similar issues between walls, not necessarily between the infill and the walls.\n\nIt is most likely that the viscosity of this filament is way different (less fluid) than the other filaments you print. Not only mechanical issues (to be precise: inaccurate positioning e.g. caused by loose belts) could play a part in this, but also printing speed. A more viscous filament needs more pressure and time to get the filament through the nozzle. This is exactly what happened in my case, because of different wall speed line settings (inner and outer), the filament did not flow fast enough leading to under extrusion. In your case you probably also have a higher infill than wall speed, so lowering your infill speed may mitigate your problem. Also, most slicers have an option to define the overlap between the infill and the perimeters/walls, you could also increase that for this filament.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n8488,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,JPFrancoia,2.1782824847157594,2.7669748712461706,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Auto bed leveling: systematic slope,\"I have a heavily modified DiscoEasy 200 from Dagoma, see picture:\n\n\n\nThe heatbed is mounted on 4 springs, on top of the original plate. I made sure the X carriage was parallel to the table. I then tried to level the bed manually, with the 4 springs: I pushed the nozzle into each corner of the bed, and used the paper-gauge method to adjust the springs so that the bed would always be at the same distance of the nozzle. I then setup the Z-offset on the machine and tried to print a mainstream bed leveling test from thingiverse. I use a 4 points auto bed leveling.\n\nAnd I have a systematic problem. Every time I try the bed leveling test, it seems the right side of the bed is lower than the left one. The front and rear right corners seem to be lower than on the left side. I tried to expand the springs of the front and rear right corners, but the auto bed leveling at the beginning of my prints re-introduces the problem.\n\nThe right side seems to be ~100 µm lower than what it should be. It's not a lot, but it's enough for prints to fail.\n\nI can't figure out what the problem is. Do you have any idea? it's driving me crazy to not understand where the problem comes from.\n\",cmm,\"As I understand your question:\n\n\nYou manually go through a leveling process and have it set up well.\nYou allow the printer to \"\"auto-level\"\". \nYou print, and the right side is too low by about 0.1mm. \n\n\nIs it possible that the filament (which is on the left side) pulls up on the extruder when the extruder is on the right side? A small tug could lift the extruder making it appear the same as if the bed were too low.\n\nIf this seems possible, check for the extruder being vertically loose or wobbly. I've had filament pull forces cause slight head offsets on a home-brew printer.\n\",0.0,0.0\n8488,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,JPFrancoia,2.1782824847157594,2.7669748712461706,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Auto bed leveling: systematic slope,\"I have a heavily modified DiscoEasy 200 from Dagoma, see picture:\n\n\n\nThe heatbed is mounted on 4 springs, on top of the original plate. I made sure the X carriage was parallel to the table. I then tried to level the bed manually, with the 4 springs: I pushed the nozzle into each corner of the bed, and used the paper-gauge method to adjust the springs so that the bed would always be at the same distance of the nozzle. I then setup the Z-offset on the machine and tried to print a mainstream bed leveling test from thingiverse. I use a 4 points auto bed leveling.\n\nAnd I have a systematic problem. Every time I try the bed leveling test, it seems the right side of the bed is lower than the left one. The front and rear right corners seem to be lower than on the left side. I tried to expand the springs of the front and rear right corners, but the auto bed leveling at the beginning of my prints re-introduces the problem.\n\nThe right side seems to be ~100 µm lower than what it should be. It's not a lot, but it's enough for prints to fail.\n\nI can't figure out what the problem is. Do you have any idea? it's driving me crazy to not understand where the problem comes from.\n\",Trish,\"Did you check if your bed is parallel to the gantry? \n\nIt can happen that after leveling one side and moving to the other the adjustment there puts the first side out of alignment - I level my bed by doing some couple turns\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8735,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,JPFrancoia,2.1782824847157594,2.7669748712461706,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Replace X axis motor with different model,\"Last week, my X-axis stepper motor died. It was a 42SHD0217-24B model. I ordered the same online, but the vendor made a \"\"mistake\"\" and sent me the 17HS3401S model.\n\nI know these motors use a different voltage, so I adjusted the screw on the stepper driver and managed to get a smooth rotation with the new model. I know that these 2 motors have a rotation of 1.8° per step.\n\nMy questions are the following:\n\n\nSince they have the same rotation angle per step, I shouldn't have to calibrate the new model, right? (I'll use the original wheel)\nDid the vendor send me a motor with inferior performances?\nWill my performances degrade if I use the new motor? (Lecture on motors appreciated). By that I mean: will my top moving speed be affected? Will the motor miss more steps at high speed?\n\n\",0scar,\"\n Since they have the same rotation angle per step, I shouldn't have to calibrate the new model, right? (I'll use the original wheel)\n\n\nYes, you do not have to change anything, other than the Vref of the stepper driver.\n\n\n Did the vendor send me a motor with inferior performances?\n\n\nYes, the one you received has a lower height, so smaller coils and smaller permanent magnets; basically lower torque.\n\n\n Will my performances degrade if I use the new motor?\n\n\nThat depends on the loading of the carriage of the X-axis, it could if it is heavy; you now have less torque available to move the carriage. But, this type is frequently found in 3D printer kits and should work.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n8748,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,JPFrancoia,1.726248027126092,2.9728043627528558,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,\"X carriage \"\"vibrates\"\" on small segments\",\"Following the question I asked here: Replace X axis motor with different model\n\nI have a problem with my new motor. My X-axis is now moved by a 17HS3401S motor, instead of a 42SHD0217-24B motor.\n\nOn small segments, like when I need to print an arc with a lot of small straight lines, my printhead \"\"vibrates\"\" instead of having a smooth movement. It seems it stops for a very short amount of time before trying to move again. On longer travels there is no problem.\n\nDo you know if it's because of the motor, or because of something else? (Vref not set properly maybe?)\n\",0scar,\"The overall torque, and thus the incremental torque is less with your new stepper, this may result in less smooth operation because of moving the weight of the carriage (e.g. when you have a direct extruder mounted on the X carriage). \n\nYou could be facing skipping steps, resulting in less accurate prints. Maybe the Vref has not been adjusted correctly, or the stepper is just not working for your application.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10515,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,JPFrancoia,2.1782824847157594,3.325948129527765,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Object's height not a multiple of layer height,\"This basic question has been bothering me for a while.\n\nLet's say I'm printing an object of height 20.1 mm with 0.2 mm layers. What will the slicer do? in other words, how will it print the last layer? Since I'm printing with 0.2 mm layers, my object will be printed in 11 layers, but the last one would make my object 20.2 mm high. Is there some sort of compensation (in Slic3r or Cura for example), or will I just get an inaccurate object?\n\",0scar,\"Slicers will round off to the next nearest layer, so 20.2 mm in your case. However, you can get to 20.1 mm if you use a 0.3 mm first layer.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n7963,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dav20011,2.1782824847157594,3.5726960728578114,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Small structures are deformed after switching to Duet Wifi,\"I just switched to the Duet Wifi board (used MKS Gen L 1.0 before) and now small structures look terrible. From my observations the hot end moves correctly, but almost no filament gets extruded. On the other hand larger structures look very good. With the MKS board the exact same G-code worked fine.\nAfter that I gradually disabled many features like coasting, wiping and even retractions altogether, the quality only improved by a tiny margin.\n\nExample print (the two towers should be cylinders):\n\n\nAdditional information:\n\n\nPrinter: JGAurora A5\nMaterial: PETG\nSlicer: Simplify3D\n\n\nMore info (edit):\n\n\nHot end temperature: 225 °C (for the affected layers)\nBed temperature: 60 °C (I corrected the thermistor data, it's equivalent to 70-75 °C on other JGAurora A5 printers)\nNozzle diameter: 0.4 mm\nPart cooling fan: 100% (improved cooler duct by Da Hai Zhu)\nPrint speed: 50 mm/s (50% for outline)\nThe cylinder is printed hollow because of my infill settings\nLubricant is fresh, belts are tightened, so there should be no mechanical issues\n\n\",0scar,\"The OP found the solution and shared this in comments but has not written a proper answer. The OP found:\n\n\n To complete this, the issue was related to the part cooling fan not spinning correctly. After replacing it the problem was gone.\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n7963,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dav20011,2.1782824847157594,3.5726960728578114,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Small structures are deformed after switching to Duet Wifi,\"I just switched to the Duet Wifi board (used MKS Gen L 1.0 before) and now small structures look terrible. From my observations the hot end moves correctly, but almost no filament gets extruded. On the other hand larger structures look very good. With the MKS board the exact same G-code worked fine.\nAfter that I gradually disabled many features like coasting, wiping and even retractions altogether, the quality only improved by a tiny margin.\n\nExample print (the two towers should be cylinders):\n\n\nAdditional information:\n\n\nPrinter: JGAurora A5\nMaterial: PETG\nSlicer: Simplify3D\n\n\nMore info (edit):\n\n\nHot end temperature: 225 °C (for the affected layers)\nBed temperature: 60 °C (I corrected the thermistor data, it's equivalent to 70-75 °C on other JGAurora A5 printers)\nNozzle diameter: 0.4 mm\nPart cooling fan: 100% (improved cooler duct by Da Hai Zhu)\nPrint speed: 50 mm/s (50% for outline)\nThe cylinder is printed hollow because of my infill settings\nLubricant is fresh, belts are tightened, so there should be no mechanical issues\n\n\",Nach0z,\"This actually just looks like heating issues. Cura has an option to set a minimum layer time and speed, and any layer that takes less than that amount of time it'll lift the head away from the print to allow the plastic to cool.\n\nUnfortunately, the only things I can find for Simplify3D around head lift and minimum layer times are software feature request posts from 2017, or some features around scaling print speed for small layers, but unfortunately that'll just print the same object much slower and may not properly allow the part to cool as the melting-temperature print head is still sitting directly on top of the part.\n\nI hate to be someone to suggest a software change, but you might try using Cura and seeing if you get better results with features such as this. \n\",0.0,0.0\n7979,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ravenix,1.726248027126092,4.110615265422881,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Extruder get loose,\"Printer: Anet A6\n\nI'm gaving some trouble with a loose hot end. I was trying to peel of some PLA when I noticed the whole thing was kinda loose. I could pull it out very easy.\n\n\nSo I tried to put it back, but it's verry loose and I don't know what exactly is wrong.\n\n\nI'm not sure if I broke something, or doing something wrong. Does anyone know how to fix this or do I need a new extruder or hot-end?\n\nKind regards.\n\nUpdate:\n\nAs Trish said in the accepted answer, the heatbreak is broken. When I've opened the extruder it became more clear:\n\n\n\n\nI'm happy cause this is a fix for about 10 euro.\n\",Trish,\"I am sorry to inform you, but your picture looks like your hotend has a broken heatbreak. The heatbreak is the screw that connects the heater block with he coldend.\n\nYour first picture clearly shows that the tp 2 or 3 windings of the screw are ripped off. Probably from tightening the nut against the codend carriage and this way applying tremendous force - the lower picture hints that it was tightened far too strong.\n\nYou are lucky however, as replacement heatbreaks are easy to come by and cheap.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n7987,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Fredo Corleone,2.1782824847157594,3.956213014801466,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Are black filaments more brittle?,\"I've been 3D printing for a while and I've noticed that, when printing small parts, my colored plastics (PLA, PLA+ and ABS) have better layer adhesion than black ones.\n\nDid you notice this?\n\nWhat could be the cause?\n\",Trish,\"Not inherently.\n\nThere are two things at work that might cause one color to test weaker than others even as its properties otherwise are functionally identical:\n\n\nA bad print among good ones.\nA bad roll among good ones.\n\n\nLet's take a look at both, then do a little excursus into plastics and color.\n\nA bad print\n\nThere are probably thousands of reasons a print might fail, but bad layer bonding and squish-ability under torsion strongly hint to under extrusion. Now, under extrusion itself can be caused by a plethora of reasons: a clogged nozzle is equally as possible as too thinner diameter as is just a bad temperature. The last one is, in my opinion, the most likely culprit: filaments may look the same and feel the same and bond the same, but in different colors, they sometimes demand different print settings.\n\nAs an example, I print most of my Kaisertech PLAs at 200°C, as that offers a quite good result for all of them. Yet when I started I had a white China PLA and a crystal clear PLA from the same manufacturer, both came from the same warehouse in the same shipment. The clear one is quite more brittle on the roll, but their starting-to-print temperature differs by 5°C - the white started to extrude at 180°C decently and printed ok at 195°C-200°C, while the clear needed only 175°C to start to be extrudeable and was really printable at 190°C. Yet recently I tried the same roll again to achieve fully clear prints, and with 210°C and lots of overextrusion, I managed to go almost solid-clear. Because of such experience, I suggest tweaking the settings.\n\nA Bad Filament\n\nThere are several reasons why one roll might resulting in bad prints, but the most prominent are that the roll has gone bad over bad storage. It might be stored too hot or too humid, making it brittle or bubble in the hotend. Aging under UV plays a role (it degrades PLA). And dimensional accuracy plays a role because it affects the whole roll of filament. This is why tests should always be performed with equally treated and measured samples to achieve comparability.\n\nExcursus: Plastics and color\n\nWhat gives a plastic its color? Pigments added to it. Now, pigments can be of varied kinds. Usually, they are embedded in the plastic (=not bonded to the carrier plastic), and the plastic polymer is often either inherently transparent(ish) or white. Let's take some examples to look at...\n\n\nYellow. Yellow can be made from a lot of stuff but many yellow pigments react to UV light by decay more than other colors, leading to yellow to fade quickly in comparison to other colors. It has varied chemical compositions, often they can become quite complex.\nBlack. Black pigment is typically the most simplistic coloration to achieve: pure powdered carbon is one of our most potent black pigments, and also one of the cheapest, making black plastic one of the most common plastics. In contrast to other colors, carbon can't fade. But the plastic around it decomposes and turns white, fading the color this way.\n\n\nNow, most colorings are - in physical terms - sizeable. Some few to a couple dozen atoms, making them range in the Angström (~Atom diameter) to few nanometer area overall. However, even something as complex as $C_{22}H_{20}O_{13}$ (Carmine) is relatively small compared to the $(C_3H_4O_2)_n$ of PolyLacticAcid, aka PLA. Poly tells us that n is at least 100, because shorter chains are oligomers, not polymers. In comparison, our red carmine pigment is more dense, much more compact in fact. As a result, a 100-chain of PLA is not just in the Angstöm area but in the dozen nanometer to micrometer range - a magnitude of at least 2 larger. Unless we have a huge excess of pigment or a pigment that reacts with the plastic under heat, then the impact of it on the strength should be neglectible to the other fillers often used.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n7987,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Fredo Corleone,2.1782824847157594,3.956213014801466,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Are black filaments more brittle?,\"I've been 3D printing for a while and I've noticed that, when printing small parts, my colored plastics (PLA, PLA+ and ABS) have better layer adhesion than black ones.\n\nDid you notice this?\n\nWhat could be the cause?\n\",Anthony Herrera,\"Your heading is about how brittle the material is, but the question is asking about layer adhesion. I'll go ahead and tackle the layer adhesion portion. There are many variables at play here but unless you are using two filaments fresh out of the box, I would guess moisture might be the issue.\n\nMoisture\n\nThe filaments pick up moisture as they are left out or even just store. I've tried to prevent it, but nothing seems to work. When this happens you generally need to run the same filament a bit hotter to get the same results as a new roll. Comparing a new roll to an old roll, or even two rolls of questionable quality, will result in slight changes. \n\nBad Quality\n\nFilament quality goes a long ways to making sure the print comes out consistently. Dimensional sizing is the main one the gets thrown around, but once again, moisture may creep in if the manufacturer is questionable. I use Hatchbox mainly and have not had an issue on either of these fronts. Poor dimensional quality will cause either under or over extrusion which can make the layers appear worse and is impossible to fix without buying a new roll as the filament itself is the issue.\n\nColor\n\nCan color make a difference? Perhaps. I've wondered if black heats up quicker than white filament. I have gone through quite a bit of white and black PLA from the same manufacturer and so far have notice no major difference between the two. \n\nBrittleness and Layer Adhesion\n\nI don't see how these two would have much to do with each other. There are too many variables between the heating and the cooling of the material for brittleness to have a major effect. For example, PLA is brittle but prints well. TPU is very flexible and prints well - it all depends on what your setup is. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8059,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Fredo Corleone,1.0891412423578797,5.424297199343582,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,PETG nozzle clearance and extrusion multiplier,\"I've started printing PETG recently and I'm happy with results so far, awesome strength and good looking (except for stringing). But I've noticed that PETG prints better with more distance nozzle-plate than usual, and under-extrusion make parts looking better than both normal/over-extrusion.\n\n\nWhat distance nozzle-plate is optimal for PETG? (i.e. the distance between nozzle and build plate during calibration)\nWhat extrusion percentage is optimal for PETG?\n\n\",0scar,\"I have printed literally kilometers of 2.85 mm PETG filament on various 3D printers, and frankly, I do not share your opinion on an increased calibration distance/offset (like using thicker paper when levelling you build plate or increasing the Z offset by G-code M851). I even lower the default first layer height in Ultimaker Cura (0.2 mm prints fine). I am aware that on the web there are folks that do increase the calibration offset, or increase the first layer height, but that should not be necessary on a well tuned printer with sufficient first layer adhesion (e.g. printing on glass with 3DLAC).\n\nFurthermore, the best extrusion multiplier for printing PETG is 100 % on a well tuned extruder for a constant diameter quality filament brand.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8059,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Fredo Corleone,1.0891412423578797,5.424297199343582,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,PETG nozzle clearance and extrusion multiplier,\"I've started printing PETG recently and I'm happy with results so far, awesome strength and good looking (except for stringing). But I've noticed that PETG prints better with more distance nozzle-plate than usual, and under-extrusion make parts looking better than both normal/over-extrusion.\n\n\nWhat distance nozzle-plate is optimal for PETG? (i.e. the distance between nozzle and build plate during calibration)\nWhat extrusion percentage is optimal for PETG?\n\n\",anttix,\"Here is the mental framework that I use to reason about PETG: In a nutshell you want to avoid nozzle contact.\n\nUnlike most other plastics, PETG sticks to hot brass really well and every time the nozzle moves through material it will pick up some of it. Material around the the nozzle then sticks to a random place creating a blob. It can also cook, turn transparent brown and drop into the print. Investing in a plated nozzle or silicone socks helps but doesn't eliminate the problem completely.\n\nNow to the questions.\n\n1) Nozzle Distance\n\nDistance to the plate has to be such that the plastic is laid down precisely without the nozzle dragging through the material (remember, avoid nozzle contact). Precise lines require the build plate to be level and the flow perfectly calibrated. If nozzle is too low and/or the layer is over-extruded then PETG will stick to the nozzle and rip the lines off the plate again. Inspecting the first layer is required for best results. I like to print a layer test pattern after the flow has been calibrated and tweak Z offset in 0.02mm increments until it's perfect.\n\nWith many other plastics it's ok to have a large amount of \"\"squish\"\" in the first layer as it helps to work around minor leveling issues. This is where the cookie-cutter recommendation to raise the nozzle when printing with PETG is coming from.\n\n2) Extrusion percentage\n\nFlow has to be near perfect. Down to one percent perfect. Even a slightest over extrusion and some of the excess material will end up on the nozzle when it makes the next pass. Under extrusion isn't great either as this can lead to holes and affect overhangs where thinner strands of a previous pass may not be enough for the next line to stick to.\n\nThere are two critical parameters: diameter of the filament and extrusion multiplier. This is how to determine the settings:\n\n\nMeasure filament diameter. I use an average of ten measurements over about a meter (yard) of filament taken in multiple orientations.\nCalibrate the extrusion multiplier using a method described in Prusa\nmanual:\nI print a 40x40x40 cube in vase mode with extrusion multiplier set\nto 1 and fixed extrusion width (e.g. 0.45mm), measure the wall\nthickness in three spots on every side, average the results and\ncompute the correction factor.\n\n\nI perform flow calibration for every new roll of filament.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n8194,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Fredo Corleone,2.8153892694839717,4.978018488266829,2.7799718631987322,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Question about retraction distance and stringing/print quality with PETG,\"I've tried printing the Basic Stringing Test on my CR-10S using PETG (250 °C nozzle, 80 °C bed) with different retraction distances leaving all the rest unchanged.\n\nIn the image below you can see 0 mm, 5 mm and 10 mm retractions (in order left-to-right).\n\n\n\nThe result stunned me because I would have imagined that raising retraction distance would have diminished the stringing.\n\nWhy is that?\n\",0scar,\"You cannot endlessly increase the retraction distance, doing so leads to different problems as you encountered. As a rule of thumb, the retraction distance should not exceed the length of your nozzle. Depending on the type of extruder, many printers use a value between 2 and 7 mm (e.g. the Ultimaker Cura retraction length is 6.5 mm at 25 mm/s, this is for a Bowden style extruder).\n\nIn fighting stringing (in which PETG is very subjected to happening) retraction length is only one of the parameters that you need to adjust to optimize the printing process. Other important parameters (besides retraction length) for stringing are:\n\n\nretraction speed\ntravel speed\nminimum travel distance\n\n\nFurthermore, the type of extruder (direct or Bowden) is also important and other parameters that may reduce the stringing are:\n\n\ncoasting (stop extruding before the end of the print line is reached using the residual pressure in the nozzle to extrude the last filament)\npre-loading/priming filament after a move\n\n\nUsually it suffices to tune the first 4 parameters. As you see in your results, the retraction of 5 mm is close to the result you would expect, increasing it, may lead to clogs and in your case leads to a sort of stringing. This latter result is probably due to the fact that the filament does not reach the print in time (you definitely see under-extruded cylinder columns), while leftover pressure after printing the column layer oozes some of the filament creating strings.\n\nJust play with the retraction length in steps of 0.25 mm (around the 5 mm) and you may try to change the speed with 5 mm/s increments if necessary. \n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n8548,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Fredo Corleone,2.528907649931287,4.181033933013723,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,Can I dry PETG filament under sun?,\"At the moment the outside surface temperature is around 30 °C. Can I put my PETG spools outside with a fan in order to dry them cheaply?\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"The simple answer is: No\n\nThere are two basic reasons for this:\n\n\nThe sun will not get the filament hot enough to evaporate any moisture which has been absorbed.\nWhile sitting out in the sun, it will continue to absorb more moisture, which defeats the purpose.\n\n\nOn Matter Hackers, they give a very reliable way to dry filament:\n\n\n \n Preheat your oven to 160-180°F (or 70-80°C).\n Place spool in oven for 4-6 hours\n Remove and place in an airtight container, preferably with desiccant. 5-gallon buckets with airtight lids from local hardware stores work very well for filament storage. You can use uncooked rice as a cheap desiccant.\n \n \n Filaments with lower glass transition temperatures (Tg) like PLA, use lower temperatures to dry. Lower temperatures also require more time to thoroughly dry.\n \n That’s really all that’s necessary to dry out your filament and ensure optimum material performance and surface finish.\n \n So if you have some spools that have been sitting out for a while and aren’t printing as well as they used to, dry them out and try again. Chances are they’ll be like new.\n\n\nYou can see in the write-up it states you need to get the oven up to 160-180°F (or 70-80°C). The sun will never provide that level of heat. It also states at lower temps it takes longer to evaporate all of the moisture. Placing the filament into an oven at the proper temps will ensure the best results short of buying a purpose built system like PrintDry which is also mentioned in the article. \n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n8548,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Fredo Corleone,2.528907649931287,4.181033933013723,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,Can I dry PETG filament under sun?,\"At the moment the outside surface temperature is around 30 °C. Can I put my PETG spools outside with a fan in order to dry them cheaply?\n\",Pekka Koivumäki,\"Here is my suggestion for a cheap, well and temperature accurate drying manner of a filament. I've done it several times for PETG that is actually a very moisture absorbing filament and pops it up when using by ruining the job. Why not using your own printer's heat bed to dry the filament (PETG about 6 hours in 65 degrees of Celsius)? I can guarantee that it works:\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8002,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Fre-e-,1.0891412423578797,2.9362955533623216,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,After market bed heater for Intamsys Funmat HT 3D Printer,\"I am in college and am doing a team competition to print PPSU filament, and get the best results. This is being put on by the Solvay company, who makes the material. Our team signed up and the university bought us an Intamsys Funmat HT 3D Printer, which said it was capable of printing PPSU. However, the company doing the competition did not release the information that the bed plate must be a high temperature to avoid warping (Greater than 200 °C). However, our plate only reaches a temperature of 160. Does anyone know of any aftermarket heaters that would work with this printer?\n\nMaximum temperatures according to Intamys: Chamber 90 °C, Magnetic Build Plate 160 °C, Extruder 450 °C\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"Inspired by the answer from Nach0z, according to my back of the notepad radiative emission approximation, you need about a 3x increase in bed dissipation to get from $ \\Delta T$ of 130 °C up to 170 °C. So that would correspond to an increase from 12 V at the bed to 18 V. As the current increases, the wire losses would also increase. \n\nSounds like a high power laptop charger could possibly fit the bill at 19V. Obviously this leaves a risk that the bed will be damaged, but I think it is better to aim for a steady load rather than pwm and a higher peak energy than necessary.\n\",0.0,0.0\n8002,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Fre-e-,1.0891412423578797,2.9362955533623216,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,After market bed heater for Intamsys Funmat HT 3D Printer,\"I am in college and am doing a team competition to print PPSU filament, and get the best results. This is being put on by the Solvay company, who makes the material. Our team signed up and the university bought us an Intamsys Funmat HT 3D Printer, which said it was capable of printing PPSU. However, the company doing the competition did not release the information that the bed plate must be a high temperature to avoid warping (Greater than 200 °C). However, our plate only reaches a temperature of 160. Does anyone know of any aftermarket heaters that would work with this printer?\n\nMaximum temperatures according to Intamys: Chamber 90 °C, Magnetic Build Plate 160 °C, Extruder 450 °C\n\",Nach0z,\"If you're a brave individual you might try insulating the bottom of your heated bed. You're going to want to get fiberglass or something that can actually withstand the temperatures you're trying to reach; anything past about 230 °C and you'll get organic things like cork and cotton starting to smoke. 200 °C is pretty absurd for a print bed temperature unless you're printing some pretty exotic materials.\n\nAside from insulating the bottom of the bed to aid in heat retention, you might also try getting an external FET chip for your heated bed, like is recommended for the RAMPS1.4 boards since their connectors don't handle high amperage loads well. External FET plus a 24 V PSU might give you the kind of temperature range you're apparently aiming for. Best of luck with that, and try not to set your entire setup on fire, 200 °C really is kind of absurd for an entire print plate.\n\nTL;DR:\n\n\nInsulate\nExternal FET chip\n24V PSU\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8012,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Harrison,1.0891412423578797,4.041499045332291,0.0,5.199501240805782,2.3655567426522146,2.2279055228048463,3DBenchy's bow prints out of alignment,\"I'm new to 3D printing, but I've solved all of my problems except for this rough surface shown in the image of a Benchy print:\n\n\n\nAny suggestions are appreciated.\n\n\nPrinter (new): Raptor 2 (400x400x700 mm)\nBed Temp: 65 °C\nExtruder Temp: 210 °C\nFilament: PLA (1.75 mm) right out of the package (came with printer from\nFormbot)\n200 degrees extruder; 60-degree hotbed - print success, bow issue\npersists. speed: 100\nfade height: 0\nnozzle: 200\nbed: 60\nfan speed: 255\nflow: 100 probe offset: -1.4\n\n\n\n\n\n\",0scar,\"You print too hot and probably with not enough cooling. These typical defects are caused by too much heat input into your model. You see this best at the overhang of the bow of Benchy, it should be smooth like the bottom part of the side of your Benchy. It clearly shows heat induced defects. Lower the temperature at least 10 °C. Know that PLA usually is printable at about 190 °C, also 65 °C for the hotbed is quite high, Depending on the surface you could aim for a temperature between 50 - 60 °C,\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n8012,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Harrison,1.0891412423578797,4.041499045332291,0.0,5.199501240805782,2.3655567426522146,2.2279055228048463,3DBenchy's bow prints out of alignment,\"I'm new to 3D printing, but I've solved all of my problems except for this rough surface shown in the image of a Benchy print:\n\n\n\nAny suggestions are appreciated.\n\n\nPrinter (new): Raptor 2 (400x400x700 mm)\nBed Temp: 65 °C\nExtruder Temp: 210 °C\nFilament: PLA (1.75 mm) right out of the package (came with printer from\nFormbot)\n200 degrees extruder; 60-degree hotbed - print success, bow issue\npersists. speed: 100\nfade height: 0\nnozzle: 200\nbed: 60\nfan speed: 255\nflow: 100 probe offset: -1.4\n\n\n\n\n\n\",AndreKR,\"If you printed Benchy upright, this is an overhang. You didn't state the print speed that you used, but I found that I can improve overhang quality considerably by printing them slower.\n\nIf you're otherwise satisfied with the print quality, you probably don't want to waste time by printing the whole model slower. If you're using Ultimaker Cura there is a setting in the Experimental section (don't worry, it works fine) to print only overhangs slower:\n\n\n\n(Those are very conservative settings, a larger angle, like 30°, would probably be fine, too.)\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8020,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,INPUT_PULLUP,2.528907649931287,3.137850340878127,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,How to fix evenly spaced vertical print pattern,\"\n\n\n\n\nThese lines exist on all prints, PLA, ABS.\nThey're 0.800mm apart [20T 2GT pulley, 1.8deg/step motor = 1 line/4 full-steps]\nStart to disappear above 75mm/s but will still appear on slower axis when printing diagonal lines or curves\nCustom built frame, cross bar (Ultimaker style) using linear rails\ndual-motor(4 total on X-Y) + separate driver (1motor/driver)\nRunning Smoothieware on Smoothieboard 5X [A5984 drivers, 32 microstep]\n\n\nTried all these with no improvement: \nTL;DR problem is somewhere between drivers and motors\n\n\nSwitched to 6.625:1 geared extruder\nTried parallel, series, single coil on the 8 wires motor and 2 other different motors\nEnable fast decay mode on A5984\nMotor current from 0.5A to 1.8A\nPLA temp from 170~200\nAcceleration as low as 100mm/s2\n**Changed 20T to 16T pulleys. The pattern scaled down proportional to the change in tooth count. Ruled out mechanical issues.\n\n\",entropicCreator,\"this is a great blog post explaining what i think im seeing, although im not entirely sure what im seeing in your photos. the short version is if your z-rods are threaded in an imperial unit, inches/fractions of inches, instead of metric, you get a repeating decimal value (think about converting 1/3 to decimal), which can lead to a rounding error depending on the chosen layer height. without knowing how exactly you built your machine its hard to say more but the post goes over a number of things i almost did wrong (like anti-wobble caps on top of the z rods for prusia i3s...)\n\",0.0,0.0\n8020,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,INPUT_PULLUP,2.528907649931287,3.137850340878127,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,How to fix evenly spaced vertical print pattern,\"\n\n\n\n\nThese lines exist on all prints, PLA, ABS.\nThey're 0.800mm apart [20T 2GT pulley, 1.8deg/step motor = 1 line/4 full-steps]\nStart to disappear above 75mm/s but will still appear on slower axis when printing diagonal lines or curves\nCustom built frame, cross bar (Ultimaker style) using linear rails\ndual-motor(4 total on X-Y) + separate driver (1motor/driver)\nRunning Smoothieware on Smoothieboard 5X [A5984 drivers, 32 microstep]\n\n\nTried all these with no improvement: \nTL;DR problem is somewhere between drivers and motors\n\n\nSwitched to 6.625:1 geared extruder\nTried parallel, series, single coil on the 8 wires motor and 2 other different motors\nEnable fast decay mode on A5984\nMotor current from 0.5A to 1.8A\nPLA temp from 170~200\nAcceleration as low as 100mm/s2\n**Changed 20T to 16T pulleys. The pattern scaled down proportional to the change in tooth count. Ruled out mechanical issues.\n\n\",Nach0z,\"The fact that these are all perfectly spaced, and don't mirror the edges of irregular prints, makes me think it's definitely not ghosting. That said, I can't see the Y direction on either print, just the X direction, so this all assumes it's only happening in one direction.\nOne thing to think about: Your motors have typically 2 opposing coils, and they get activated by taking 4 steps: (North, off, South):\nN/o\no/N\nS/o\no/S\nIf these are spaced out exactly 4 steps apart, that would imply that one of your coils is either underpowered or overpowered on the motor controlling that direction's movement. That would lead to your motor torque dipping and increasing, leading to slightly uneven print speed. This is 100% speculative and might be a goose chase since you've got 4 X/Y motors and it seems to happen in both the X and Y axis. The chances of having that many motors exhibit the same deficiency is astronomical.\n\nThat said, I've got little experience with multiple motors per axis. Another thing you might look into is whether the motors are fighting each other at all. If, for example, the motor-side pulley isn't aligned exactly the same way on both X motors, or the motors get out of sync with each other, because of the way the motor's holding torque falls as you get away from a full step position, you might find that one motor is holding the other back slightly, or pulling it forward towards the nearest full step. Again, this is all speculative, but it might be worth looking into. You can typically figure out the full step location by killing power to the machine and letting the motors settle into a full step on their own without the belts or other drive mechanisms attached. I'd unhook the belts, kill the power, get the motors settled (with a bit of a nudge if necessary), and then see if your belt perfectly settles into both pulleys in that location. You might find that the belt teeth don't quite line up on both pulleys, and the only way I can think of that would fix that specific problem is spinning the motor until it matches, or even physically relocating the motor closer or farther relative to the other on the same axis.\n\nYMMV, best of luck.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8023,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dmoore56,2.528907649931287,3.823789413750767,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.878685800062712,Under-extrusion after a certain amount of successful layers?,\"My CR-10 is starting prints, BUT then makes weird spiral pattern, layers go up vertically with large gaps. Hollow infill.\n\n\n\n\n\nI don’t know if it’s:\n - My Slicing skills\n- original files\n- the printer itself\nLong explanation. Questions at the end. I’ve had beautiful normal prints. Then I’ve had these abnormal spiral layer prints with infill issues and spaghetti monsters (the images don’t show but, where the prints pictured end, is not the full print, it did the weird spiral then just stopped layering altogether). I’m semi-new to printing and don’t have too much of a tech background apart from average use. Been researching a couple months, I’ve only been printing for about a week. I’ve had an amazing couple prints. Baby groot was flawless, barely noticeable layers. The test print (a rather thick disk with deep grid marks and a puppy on top) that came with the printer was the same smooth flawless, it wasn’t my first print though. So the behavior seems erratic. The two prints pictured had several successful print in between them. \n\nI do know:\n\nThe elder wand file was in several tutorials and was printed successfully. Its in two parts. The first part, which is way shorter and thicker printed Amazingly. The second part pictured was double the height+ and 1/4 the thickness. I even printed it successfully once before going horizontally and flat against the bed. BUT I had to run the print three times because the filament would not stick to the glass. It was just being dragged along behind the nozzle. But I was observing so I ended the print before it went too far. All I did to change this was add a brim and supports. Which gave a “successful print” except the fact that one of the knobs has a flat spot and the support remnants were very noticeable. Resolution was terrible too. Hence why I decided to try printing it vertically.\n\nThe bigger print pictured is the base of a hufflepuff horecrux cup, the first time I printed it was with cura slicer, it came out beautifully but the stem snapped right under the base of the cup part st some point, and the left handle had some wierd stringing issues, like 7 pure strands of filament hanging out one corner, and the print failed s fee layers from top. However the file description only had one previous make listed and the thing with the top of the handle and print failed about the same with that persons print.\n\nSorry for the long post. I’d just really appreciate any help, and I wanted to give all the details.\n\",Trish,\"While uncommon, this issue could be caused by having no minimum layer time set. This could lead to printing on a still very hot surface, which in turn ripples and moves, creating a little wave pattern. The wave pattern then can grow into this diagonal pattern.\n\nYou might manage to reduce the issue by setting a minimum layer time of 10 to 15 seconds.\n\",0.0,0.0\n8023,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dmoore56,2.528907649931287,3.823789413750767,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.878685800062712,Under-extrusion after a certain amount of successful layers?,\"My CR-10 is starting prints, BUT then makes weird spiral pattern, layers go up vertically with large gaps. Hollow infill.\n\n\n\n\n\nI don’t know if it’s:\n - My Slicing skills\n- original files\n- the printer itself\nLong explanation. Questions at the end. I’ve had beautiful normal prints. Then I’ve had these abnormal spiral layer prints with infill issues and spaghetti monsters (the images don’t show but, where the prints pictured end, is not the full print, it did the weird spiral then just stopped layering altogether). I’m semi-new to printing and don’t have too much of a tech background apart from average use. Been researching a couple months, I’ve only been printing for about a week. I’ve had an amazing couple prints. Baby groot was flawless, barely noticeable layers. The test print (a rather thick disk with deep grid marks and a puppy on top) that came with the printer was the same smooth flawless, it wasn’t my first print though. So the behavior seems erratic. The two prints pictured had several successful print in between them. \n\nI do know:\n\nThe elder wand file was in several tutorials and was printed successfully. Its in two parts. The first part, which is way shorter and thicker printed Amazingly. The second part pictured was double the height+ and 1/4 the thickness. I even printed it successfully once before going horizontally and flat against the bed. BUT I had to run the print three times because the filament would not stick to the glass. It was just being dragged along behind the nozzle. But I was observing so I ended the print before it went too far. All I did to change this was add a brim and supports. Which gave a “successful print” except the fact that one of the knobs has a flat spot and the support remnants were very noticeable. Resolution was terrible too. Hence why I decided to try printing it vertically.\n\nThe bigger print pictured is the base of a hufflepuff horecrux cup, the first time I printed it was with cura slicer, it came out beautifully but the stem snapped right under the base of the cup part st some point, and the left handle had some wierd stringing issues, like 7 pure strands of filament hanging out one corner, and the print failed s fee layers from top. However the file description only had one previous make listed and the thing with the top of the handle and print failed about the same with that persons print.\n\nSorry for the long post. I’d just really appreciate any help, and I wanted to give all the details.\n\",Uli,\"This intermittent underextrusion can be caused by a broken part in the extruder on the CR-10 / Ender 3. Check if the plastic mount that holds the idler wheel in place is torn. Depending on the height and the resulting varying tension from the filament the idler wheel gets in and out of alignment.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8025,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Karolina Obroniecka,2.1782824847157594,5.1065816621649205,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Ender 3 homing problem,\"I got myself a Creality Ender 3 and just finished assembling it and I noticed that the home position is at the right instead of the left. It also is about about 3 mm in front of the right corner.\n\nAnyone could maybe help me to understand what is wrong?\n\",0scar,\"Homing is the process where the machine finds all the limits of the 3 axis (at the endstop switches), to have a common reference point for each axis. From the endstops, firmware defined values exist to give the printer head the offset to the home position, also known as origin (X=0, Y=0). If the origin position is in front of the plate, wrong offsets may be defined, but you can re-adjust the position.\n\nIf the stepper is driving the printer head away from the endstop on a particular axis on homing (in your case the X direction), there might be a few possible problems at hand:\n\n\nThe stepper cables are plugged in reversed\nThe wires in the stepper cable are switched\nThe stepper direction is reversed in firmware (this is not very probable for a kit or bought printer)\nThe stepper motor itself is build mirrored (not uncommon mistake for Y stepper motors on the Anet A8)\n\n\nA quick fix would be to rotate the connector 180° of the cable going into the X stepper, if this works, you can disassemble the cable and properly arrange the stepper wires.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n8025,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Karolina Obroniecka,2.1782824847157594,5.1065816621649205,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Ender 3 homing problem,\"I got myself a Creality Ender 3 and just finished assembling it and I noticed that the home position is at the right instead of the left. It also is about about 3 mm in front of the right corner.\n\nAnyone could maybe help me to understand what is wrong?\n\",HackerJ,\"Did you make sure that the x,y,z and other cords / connectors, were connected to the right areas? TO clarify, the things that connect into the motors.\n\",0.0,0.0\n8041,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kolosy,1.0891412423578797,2.846247604045449,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Unable to hit hot end temperature with part cooler on,\"I'm unable to use the parts cooler I printed. Every time I turn it on, the hot end temp drops too low, and for some reason the PID can't seem to get it back up:\n\n\n\nThis is a test to simulate the issue. The first drop is the fan kicking on, then the last bump is me turning the fan off. It's almost as if the set point drops when the fan kicks in. Any ideas? The PID is tuned (I ran the autotune) and works well without the fan on. This is a RepRap Guru Prusa clone.\n\",0scar,\"This effect you describe is a commonly known problem that occurs when the print part cooling fan is not correctly positioned, i.e. if it blows air directly onto the nozzle or heater block and is best solved by printing an alternative part cooling fan duct. Alternatively you could insulate the heater block with some insulation cotton or silicone socks that fit over the heater block.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n8218,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kolosy,2.8153892694839717,2.6493643560602123,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,What calibration options should I look into given these defects,\"I printed a temperature calibration cuboid for Hatchbox 1.75 mm PLA, in 1 °C increments from 180 °C to 190 °C. \n\nI have two questions related to this image:\n\n\n\n\nI'm not seeing any difference in quality across the temperature range. Am I just way off base and need to be substantially higher?\nHow do I get rid of the small layer shifts you can see across the board?\n\n\nPrinted on a RepRapGuru Prusa MK2 clone.\n\",0scar,\"Your print does not suffer from layer shifts as you call them. This uneven layer deposition is typically caused by the (positioning) accuracy of your printer. All-in-all, this print does not look so bad. You would get better quality prints on a different style of a printer; most high-end printers have a lowering platform instead of a forth and back moving platform.\n\nAlthough 180 °C is at the low side of printing PLA (usually it starts at about 185 °C), the print does look okay. However, looks can deceive, it does not say anything about structural integrity (layer bonding).\n\nNote, to calibrate the temperature using a temperature tower, you need a different calibration test print, preferably one that tests overhang. This latter is usually far more important as there is normally not much to see at the walls, you need a slanting part in the print or an overhang to determine the optimal temperature.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n8252,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kolosy,2.8153892694839717,3.3519732380519804,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,Is this hot end salvageable?,\"Kicked off the second long print in a series (printing Lack enclosure components). First 10 hour print was flawless. Started this one, saw the first layer laid down well, went to bed. Woke up to this (you can see the successful prints in the background):\n\n\n\nThe whole heater block and nozzle is entombed in PLA. The leads to the heater and the thermistor are too. I'm assuming there's no solvent for this, and I'm better off just buying a new hot end.\n\nThoughts?\n\",cmm,\"If you can remove the hot-end it is easier. If not, carefully use hot air to soften (not melt) the PLA so you can more easily pull away chunks.\n\nWhen the hot-end is removed from the other plastic parts, you can get more aggressive with hot air. BUT, be careful of the thermistor and heater wires. They are fragile, and can easily be broken or pulled out of their devices.\n\nHeat and patience is the key. If you do break a heater or thermister, they are pretty easy to replace. Depending on the hot-end, the heater and/or the thermister may be locked in place by a set screw. That set-screw is probably locked in place by plastic, so use the hot-air gun to melt that plastic and allow you to back out the set-screw.\n\",0.0,0.0\n8252,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kolosy,2.8153892694839717,3.3519732380519804,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,Is this hot end salvageable?,\"Kicked off the second long print in a series (printing Lack enclosure components). First 10 hour print was flawless. Started this one, saw the first layer laid down well, went to bed. Woke up to this (you can see the successful prints in the background):\n\n\n\nThe whole heater block and nozzle is entombed in PLA. The leads to the heater and the thermistor are too. I'm assuming there's no solvent for this, and I'm better off just buying a new hot end.\n\nThoughts?\n\",Trish,\"Yes\n\nI had a somewhat similar clog once, and I could fix it back up. However, it is a lot of work.\n\nHobbyist Way\n\nStep 1: heat\n\nAs long as the heater cartridge is still ok, just fire up the printer, move up the printhead by 50 mm and wait some two or three minutes till the goop is warmed enough at the core to melt. Set the hotend to 200 °C and no cooling fan.\n\nStep 2: rough clean\n\nJust pull at the outer of the blob to pull it down. Then grab some tool like pliers and pull off the worst that still sticks to the hotend. Pulling the blob free can take a while, so be patient and careful.\n\nIf you have a soldering iron, you can use that as a heated scraper from the outside and skip on heating from the inside.\n\nStep 3: Cool down\n\nAfter having made a rough clean up from the outside, let it cool down so you can dismantle it.\n\nStep 4: dismantle and clean the hotend.\n\nThis is actually rather simple, and I will point to a question where I outlined that for a broken thermistor cartridge. You have a working thermosensor at least, so less problems on that front.\n\nShortcut\n\nIf you have a hot air gun for hot air soldering, you can be much faster! Skip step 1 to 3, dismantle the hotend and go straight to Step 4, dismantling it and cleaning it out of the machine with the hot air soldering tool as a heat source. Heat and scrape away, and get out the thermosensor and thermosensor as soon as possible to prevent destroying them.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n8610,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kolosy,2.8153892694839717,3.3152545075257334,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Why are there so many print speed parameters in slicers?,\"The expert mode of Slic3r PE has almost a dozen speed values:\n\n\n\nI understand that ultimately print speed at a particular temperature correlates with bond strength, so things like bridges and the first layer having different speeds are reasonable. \n\nWhat about the rest? Why does infill have 3 variations? How are the different categories listed impacted distinctly from any other form of layer/path bonding?\n\",Horitsu,\"There are multiple parameters because of the trade of at print speeds.\nSlow printing will have less ghosting and a better over all quality, but it takes way more time. \n\nFast printing will be fast (oh thank you cap. obvious), but you will get stronger ghostings, less good lines over all. Maybe some strange artifacts. \n\nBut you don't need a good print quality at parts that are not visable at all, but you need one on the outer shell. Also is the travel mostly just something that you want done as fast as possible but maybe not with the issue, that the whole printer starts shaking.\nSo you want to set different parameters for different parts. \n\nNext reason: most slicers are used for a large variation of printers, and every printer is a litte bit different, even the same printer type with different addons (like a vanilla Anet A8 vs. a beefed up Anet A8). To be able for the slicer to be used by all these printers it is necessary to be able to set this multiple parameters. \n\nTo get deeper on your question about the different infill speeds: If you print a solid infill you will also need to give the printed material more time to cool down, because it is packed tightly and there is no much surface area for getting heat away. If you print these areas to fast you will end up with a part that is too warm and warps and deforms all the time while the next layers were printed on already, inserting even more heat into the part and isolate the warm parts from the outside. You can observe similar behavior when printing overhanging areas with a thick walls. There the part will stay in a semi solid state and deforms all the time.\n\nBut how fast you habe to go depends on the cooling system you have on your printer.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n8671,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kolosy,2.8153892694839717,3.601668775190381,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.548335113978322,3.9829738809469584,Infill not reaching perimeter,\"I've got several examples like the image below where the perimeter either doesn't bond to, or doesn't reach the infill. I tried adjusting the infil overlap parameter in Slic3r from its default of 25% to 30%, but it doesn't seem to have made a difference. This is on a new Tevo Tornado that's all stock + a petsfang bullseye cooler.\n\nEdit \n\nneither speed variations, nor temp variation seems to impact this issue. I'm beginning to suspect that it's related to some sort of play in the y axis, as if you look at the defect in the picture, it's the most pronounced running north/south in the picture, which would be layers along the x axis (meaning their relative position would be impacted by y axis movement instability). I'm replacing the leveling springs with PETG standoffs tonight (I have a BLTouch) and will try again then.\n\nI tried 25, 30, and 50% infill overlap as per a comment request, and that (50%)seems to have improved another issue where the infill on a first layer would often not reach the perimeter shells. \n\nI tried the following print speeds with all of the following temperatures- 190/60, 193/65, 193/70, with 3 perimeters.\n\n\n\nThat's default behavior. I've also gone to\n\nPerimeters - 80\nSmall perimeters - 20\nInfill - 90\nSolid infil - 25\nTop solid infil - 20\nBridges - 70\nGap fill - 25\n\n\nWith no visible change in this outer perimeter behavior (the faster set of numbers is what I print with in general).\n\",0scar,\"This has nothing to do with the infill overlap, the image you've added looks as if the issue is related to non-bonding perimeters (it looks as if it is in between the 2nd and the 3rd perimeter). If that is the case look into this question.\n\nI've had this same issue, the problem is that if the perimeters do not touch, this is most probably caused by insufficient filament flow which can be a result of a too high of a print speed (or too low print temperature) of the inner perimeters.\n\",3.0411126502294303,0.0\n9838,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kolosy,2.528907649931287,3.2292362727989086,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Can I repurpose most of the components of this Prusa clone for a Delta?,\"I have a generic Prusa clone that I'm not using (my primary issue with it is the lack of rigidity in the frame housing as built). Will the motors (ks42sth40-1204a) and controller that come with it be good for a large-ish Kossel? Something no smaller than 200x200, preferably closer to 300x300? How do I reason about this?\n\nAlso - I know the Duet board seems to be recommended for Deltas, but can I use the RAMPS board that I already have here?\n\nI don't have a design finalized, but have been looking at this Kossel, Building a Large Kossel Delta Printer – pt. 1: Parts and Planning, which uses a Flex3Drive effector.\n\",Greenonline,\"Stepper motors\n\nFor equivalence, 4.8 kg⋅cm is 0.471 N⋅m or 47 N⋅cm.\n\nLooking at the RepRapWiki - Nema17, the most common steppers are:\n\n\nKysan 1124090/42BYGH4803 (54.0 N⋅cm), \nRattm 17HS8401 (52 N⋅cm), and \nWantai 42BYGHW609 (39.2 N⋅cm).\n\n\nThe Kossel that you refer to is of a similar size to the Kossel XL. Again looking at the RepRapWiki - Kossel, the recommended stepper is the Kysan 1124090 Nema 17 Stepper Motor which has a Holding Torque of 5.5 kg⋅cm.\n\nSo, without knowing the exact make and model of your stepper motors and assuming that the specifications for your stepper motors given in the Prusa clone are correct, your steppers are not as strong as those recommended (apart from the Wantai). However, the recommended steppers may be over-engineered and provide [much?] more torque than is strictly necessary. After all, the holding torque of your steppers isn't that much below the recommended values.\n\nIf I were you I'd build the Kossel using your steppers and it might, in all likely hood, work out fine. FWIW, I have used the Rattm 17HS8401 in my Kossel Mini and Kossel XL. I got them on eBay and were quite reasonably priced.\n\nYou should probably read this article, RepRapWiki - Choosing stepper for a delta. Whilst no concrete values for holding torque are given, this is interesting:\n\n\n A good practical setup\n \n The Fisher, a small delta printer was designed by late RRP company. As for all their printers, they were using small and compact steppers with a torque of 2.2 kg.cm. This is lower than most repraps but is sufficient if there is no mechanical problem (friction).\n \n These small motors have a low nominal static torque, but they also have a low inductance (2.5 mH), while due to their small size, the nominal current remains reasonable (1.2A).\n\n\nas is\n\n\n High inductance motors\n \n You find on the market steppers sold for 3D printers, with a torque ranging from 2.6 to 4.4 kg.cm and a current of 0.4 A. This low current appeal builders as it make the electronic driver heating much less.\n \n However, it came at a cost, which is a very high inductance which varies from 30 to 35 mH. That means these motors are totally incapable of any speed. They are unusable for a delta and a bad choice for another printer. As an example, a 4.4 kg.cm motor wired for this low current, while having a static torque twice the Fisher motors, simply cannot reach the maximum speed used by the Fisher, effectively having a near zero torque over a given speed. Same motors with a winding giving a nominal current of 1.5 to 2 A will be more usable.\n\n\nController\n\nAlso, yes, RAMPS is fine for the Kossel, although the firmware calibration is obviously different, as it is a delta and not cartesian printer. For calibration, refer to How do you calibrate a delta robot 3D printer?.\n\nAlthough, as Scott Lahteine states early on in this video, How it's Made: The Marlin Firmware!, using an 8-bit controller for delta printers is pushing their capabilities somewhat.\n\nExtruder\n\nI'm not familiar with the Flex3Drive, but it certainly looks interesting. I have used the 3325_0, this NEMA-17 motor has an integrated Planetary gearbox with a 52/11:1 ratio. It generates 16.2 kg⋅cm of torque at 1.68 A. I wrote a short blog about it here, The extraordinary extruder.\n\nBuilding Tips\n\nAlso, if you are planning on building a Delta/Kossel, then I'd seriously recommend watching the series of videos on YouTube from BuildA3DPrinter.eu as they are extremely informative and helped me a lot, Build manual Kossel XL & Kossel Mini. I just checked their website to try to see which make and model of steppers they use, in order to get an idea of the holding torque, but they seem to have stopped trading. However, their stepper motor page states the following:\n\n\n The standard motor for most 3D printers including ours, the 42byghw811\n from Wantai Motors.\n \n Holding torque is 4.8 kg⋅cm or 47.1 N⋅cm. Shaft diameter is 5 mm and\n stepping angle is 1.8 degrees.\n\n\nSo, to sum up, your steppers should be fine.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n9956,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kolosy,1.726248027126092,3.4382327199056495,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,BL-Touch bed leveling seems to produce tilted bed level around Y-axis,\"I have a Tevo Tornado that I've outfitted with an official BL-Touch auto level sensor. I can see the bed probing run, and I can see the Z axis slowly adjust during x/y moves, so it's doing something. However, you can see that there appears to be a systematic tilt:\n\n\n\nAny ideas what could be causing this? The bed, gantry and print head is tight, no wobble. Here's my start code:\n\nG28 ; home all axes\nG29\nG1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle\n\n\nI have mesh leveling enabled with a 5x5 grid and correct probe offsets. The bed itself is on PETG printed standoffs instead of springs to eliminate any jitter.\n\",0scar,\"The problem with the Tevo Tornado design is that the design is as such that the Z-axis is powered by a single stepper (under the assumption that you have not added a second Z stepper).\n\nThis means that the level relies on the rigidity of the X-axis assembly, more specific the play on the guide wheels. Apparently the BL-Touch level determination suffers (the up and down movement while probing) from this design as can be seen from the tilt around the Y-axis direction. This effect causing the tilted level plane is called hysteresis. Now that the Z-axis moves up and down you experience much more problems than using a mechanical switch. The effect is more pronounced when the mass of the hot end carriage is furthest from the Z-axis lead screw.\n\nNote that an extra stepper can also cause tilted level when the second stepper does not move in sync (e.g. missing steps). In such designs, a single stepper (geared) belt driven 2 lead screw has better performance in that respect.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n8044,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SilvioCro,1.0891412423578797,3.9729059858762246,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Filament choice for coasters,\"Which filament is good for a coaster for a hot cup? \n\nI don't expect PLA to be good because it can easily melt under a hot cup.\n\nNote, I can't use ABS because I don't have an enclosed printer.\n\",0scar,\"Even if you pour in boiling water in a cup, the outside of the cup will have a lower temperature. When resting on a coaster, usually a small part of the cup actually touches the coaster. Also, the design of the coaster could influence the heat transfer, a more open structure of the coaster may be beneficial. Some people print coasters in PLA although the glass temperature (temperature at which the plastic becomes soft, this is usually the temperature of your bed when you print the material) may be lower than than the temperature of the cup, the filament will weaken (for PLA at about 50 °C), but not melt , melting of PLA happens at a higher temperature (for PLA above 150 °C) than your mug can get (unless you pour liquid metal in it). It should therefore be doable in PLA, I have printed a PLA coaster that has very small ridges (about 1 mm) of an embossed image and placed a cup with boiling water on it, to find that the coaster is able to withstand the temperature of the cup without deforming (the ridges do not fail or deform).\n\nTo elaborate on the filament materials other than PLA; there are many filament types that have higher glass temperatures, but are still very printable. Various types of co-polyesters exist, like PETG, that have a higher glass temperature (> 85 °C), are a substitute for ABS and still very well printable. Nylon is also a material that can be used, there are brands that have low warp nylon.\n\nNote that there are a few options to print ABS while you have a non-enclosed printer, you could \n\n\nfabricate some cardboard pieces for a temporary enclosure, \nplace the printer in an non-draft room or \nprint the skirt height at the height of the print part.\n\n\nNote that coasters have a relative low profile height, it should not be that big of a problem to print ABS coasters on an open printer.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n8133,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SilvioCro,2.1782824847157594,3.171906017490645,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,CURA doesn't want print bridges,\"I made a model for my 3D clock. Model has few vertical holes so I made one layer thick bridge for every hole. In Fusion 360 everything looks fine, but CURA (version 3.6.0) doesn't want to print those Bridges. Why?\n\nThe Full Wall is 1.68mm thick(in Fusion), infill is 20%, wall line count is 1, layer height is 0.28mm, the support-bridges are designed to be this thick too.\n\nI'm not sure will be material stable above holes without Bridges.\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\",Trish,\"Nomenclature help\n\n\nA Layer is everything that is printed between the print head moving upwards.\n\n\nLayer height is how tall each line is. It is in Quality.\n\nA Wall is made up from lines put down next to each other.\n\n\nline width is how thick a 1-perimeter-strong wall is in the XY-plane. It should never be smaller than the Nozzle Diameter. It is in Quality.\n\nNozzle Diameter is what is the physical diameter of your nozzle. It is located in the printer configuration.\nA Bridge is printing horizontal layers that connect to walls at the sides but otherwise not connected to the printbed or print.\n\n\n\n\nUltimaker Cura does ignore too thin walls\n\nYour walls are 0.28 mm thick and your nozzle is most likely 0.4 mm thick. That can't be printed at all, in fact, you are way too thin to be printed: a printer should never print any object that is thinner than its nozzle as that is a perfect way to generate clogs.\n\nAtop that, slicers ignore also what is thinner or exactly as thin as the line width. If the line width is 0.4 mm, and the wall is 0.4 mm, it gets ignored. If the wall is 0.45 mm, it is not. This can be remedied by setting the option print thin walls, but you still need to have one line nozzle-diameter as minimum line width - actually it is common to go about 10% larger for better extrusion.\n\nSolution\n\nStrengthen the walls to one line width (usually 0.4 mm) in your CAD-design and activate print thin walls under Shell.\n\n\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n8182,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SilvioCro,1.0891412423578797,3.636240664748639,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Print ASA without enclosure,\"Is it possible or recommended to print with ASA filament with printer that has no enclosure? I Know that ASA is better than ABS, but is it that better that enclosure is not needed?\n\",Lux Claridge,\"According to MatterHackers, Simplify3D, and 3D Insider an enclosure is not necessary but highly recommended as ASA, like ABS, is susceptible to drafts and can warp. A heated bed is necessary (somewhere between 90-110 °C), and little-to-no cooling fan used. The enclosure helps ensure adhesion and a consistent temperature. ASA also has fumes and an enclosure can help contain unwanted smells.\n\nMattHackers has a video (Step 4 in the link) on making an enclosure with some kind of plastic sheeting or trash bag (I didn't watch it). There are videos on YouTube on using cheap Ikea side tables and acrylic sheets to make an enclosure if you want a more permanent solution.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n8050,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,MrSparkly,1.726248027126092,2.877598637377739,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,\"Flexible filament how to print a hollow \"\"sleeve\"\"\",\"I need to print a flexible, hollow \"\"sleeve\"\" or \"\"cover\"\" for an elongated part, kind of like a soft \"\"skin\"\" for a \"\"finger\"\" (see pic). I'm not sure how to approach the hollow space problem, i.e. how to print a flexible surface that is above an enclosed, hollow space. I could print supports inside, but they'd be hard to remove from inside the space, because I can't quite access all corners with a tool from outside. I could print this in 2 parts (\"\"bottom\"\" / \"\"walls\"\" + \"\"ceiling\"\" separately), but I'd prefer not to glue if I don't have to. Any ideas how to approach this?\n\n\n\",0scar,\"Print orientation is usually the key to print with a minimum of supports. If you print this part with the sharp point down, you will get some support structures on the outside for overhang support to prevent it from tipping over, but no support on the inside.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n11214,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,MrSparkly,1.0891412423578797,2.704143814960767,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,GRBL: inaccurate on X axis by ~4 mm on 400 mm,\"This is GRBL-related. I have a laser-engraver type machine, Chinese, ~550 mm X axis, aluminium extrusions, 2mm-pitch T belt, Nema 17H3430 motors, one mechanical homing switch for X, Arduino-based.\n\nThe X-axis accuracy is not up to par. When I make a mark on the X axis and jog to that mark (after homing), depending on the day, the position varies within ~4 mm or so. Sometimes I have to use G00 X-418, others G00 X-422.\n\nI checked the belt tension, it seems OK, not too tight, not too loose. Is there something else I should check?\n\nAnother idea I have: put a homing switch on the other end of the X-axis, then home both ends of the X-axis, measuring the difference in machine position, then modify the steps/mm value for each session to force the command that puts me on the mark to be constant (e.g. G00 X-420). Any other ideas? Thanks.\n\",Trish,\"This seems to be either a case of either belt slop or missed steps or it is a case of the accuracy of the limit switch. \n\nIf the limit switch moves even a little into either direction, you have to account twice that as the maximum error. So the 4 mm error could come from 2 mm into either direction from the 0-position.\n\nHowever, there is a silver lining: Laser engraving, just like CNC, usually first dials in the 0 regarding the workpiece instead of the 0 of the machine. As long as the machine's movement is ok, you should be fine even without tightening the mounting of the X-endstop. I suggest to run the following test to find out what kind of error actually hounds you though:\n\n\nMount a waste piece\nGo to a position on the workpiece\nRun the laser for a split second\nX10\nRun the laser for a split second\nRepeat 4&5 till you have 10 points\nMeasure the real distances between the dots engraved\n\n\nIf the distances are always the same but short, you have the wrong steps/mm set and need to adjust them accordingly. If the distances are inconsistent, you have either lost steps or a sloppy belt. To fight lost steps, carefully up the signal to the motor a little. If the results don't change from that, tighten the belt a little - it should sing like a guitar string.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8053,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Fiskelord,1.0891412423578797,2.8977288498929825,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Periodical under extrusion with Slic3r,\"I got myself an Ender 3 printer, put it together and tried the test g-code, worked fine. But i sometimes have problems with under extrusion, as shown in the picture below.\n\n\n\nAs you can see, the part to the left is almost not printed, but the part to the right is fine. These \"\"holes\"\" are a lot of places, and i dont understand what is causing a temporary clog or whatever the problem may be.\n\nAnyone know something about this problem?\n\",0scar,\"What you experience is temporary under-extrusion. This could be a typical result of friction in the supply of filament to the extruder. I've run into this also a week ago when the shaft of the spool holder caught a plastic bag next to it which wrapped around the shaft creating a lot of friction. Friction can also be caused by filament that gets entangled on the spool, this is usually a problem if the spool unrolls too freely on the holder (too less friction);it unrolls a few windings, and then tightens those entangling the filament. Also, if you use 2.85 mm filament on small diameter spools, the last stretch of filament has the smallest curvature and as such requires the most force to pull it to the extruder (this can go in steps).\n\nFurthermore, slipping of the extruder gear is also a (rare) possibility (when using a stepper directly to drive the extruder gear, a flat spot on the stepper shaft should prevent this).\n\nBe sure to inspect the filament release from spool to extruder and try to see (and listen!) what happens when you print a part when you experience the under-extrusion.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8057,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,1.0891412423578797,3.087132483714226,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Resources on getting horus/ciclop scanners to work?,\"I have a Ciclop (HE3D version) scanner ready to try to use, but it seems the Horus software is hopelessly bitrotted. It has breakage from API-level changes at least in the Python bindings for OpenGL, OpenCV, matplotlib, and wxPython, and possibly also incompatibility with the V4L2 camera drivers for Linux versions later than whatever the authors were using at the time. After attempting to fix those as best I can, I'm still getting no output from the camera. (Note: The camera works fine with other apps and OpenCV test program, so it's not a camera problem.)\n\nIs anyone using the Horus software successfully? Are there forks or alternate software that are usable, or exact details on what historical operating system and Python ecosystem version is needed to make it work?\n\",miguelpicris,\"I don't know if this will work but BQ commercializes a Ciclops scanner and have some downloads in their webpage (https://www.bq.com/en/support/ciclop/support-sheet). \n\nThere are different Horus and driver versions, maybe some will work for you(?).\n\nHope it helps!\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8206,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,2.1782824847157594,3.293352546145431,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Inconsistent inner/outer dimensions,\"Using CuraEngine with my Ender 3, I'm getting what I'd call inconsistent inner and outer dimensions - for example, a nominally 3 mm peg is significantly larger than a 3 mm hole, and it takes dimensions something like 2.9 mm for the peg and 3.1 mm for the hole to get them to fit. Is this level of error normal? Is it caused by overextrusion, or does CuraEngine run its paths along the curve of the slice rather than offset by approximately half the nozzle width inside the sliced region? The magnitude of the error being almost exactly 0.2 mm, which is half of the 0.4 mm nozzle diameter, makes me wonder if it's the latter.\n\",Mick,\"Filament expands slightly as it is extruded. Also, the width of the extrusion depends on the volume of plastic extruded (not the nozzle size), as well as the amount that it is \"\"squidged\"\" down. Some slicers (e.g. Simplify3D) allow you to specify the width of the extrusion that you desire, but I'm not sure if Cura does this. You can fine tune the width of extrusions by adjusting the flow rate. Note that apertures get larger as nozzles wear out, but this should not affect the width of the extrusion very much since the determining factor is volumetric flow rate.\n\nI would say that if you are getting a dimensional accuracy of +/- 0.1mm, you are doing pretty well. If you want to improve on this, you will need to calibrate your extruder and also monitor closely the average diameter of the filament that you are using. I have included a link to an external article, since doing this is beyond the scope of my answer. However, I doubt if it is possible to get push-fit accuracy with FDM printing without fudging the dimensions of the objects that you want to print.\n\n3D Hubs: How to calibrate, tune and fine tune your printer and filament\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n8206,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,2.1782824847157594,3.293352546145431,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Inconsistent inner/outer dimensions,\"Using CuraEngine with my Ender 3, I'm getting what I'd call inconsistent inner and outer dimensions - for example, a nominally 3 mm peg is significantly larger than a 3 mm hole, and it takes dimensions something like 2.9 mm for the peg and 3.1 mm for the hole to get them to fit. Is this level of error normal? Is it caused by overextrusion, or does CuraEngine run its paths along the curve of the slice rather than offset by approximately half the nozzle width inside the sliced region? The magnitude of the error being almost exactly 0.2 mm, which is half of the 0.4 mm nozzle diameter, makes me wonder if it's the latter.\n\",R..,\"Cura does correctly account for line extrusion widths wheen positioning the lines, and attempting to fix this with negative xy_offset was a mistake that led to lots of problems: in some cases, it completely eliminated tiny components of the model and left gaps in layers. At some point after asking this question, I did a new test with 8mm peg and hole, and I was actually able to force the 8mm peg into the hole (but not remove it) using tools, without cracking the parts, so I think past tiny sizes where dimensional accuracy is very difficult to achieve, everything is just about right.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n8512,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,2.8153892694839717,4.2351111056711055,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.306096197889172,Avoiding stringing with flexible filament,\"I have some flexible PLA filament (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VKSSA4E/, presumably a mix of PLA with some platicizer) that's supposed to be easy to print with settings similar to regular PLA. I've seen recommendations to disable retraction, and indeed I get huge failures to extrude at all for a while after retraction if it's enabled. But with retraction disabled, I get stringing all over the place, and since the material isn't brittle, it's really difficult to remove.\n\nI'm using a bed temp of 60 and print temp of 220, increased from 210 for normal PLA since I had trouble getting it to adhere at lower temp. Printer is Creality Ender 3. Using CuraEngine for slicing. The extruder is feeding the material fine; there's no kinking going on or anything.\n\nWhere should I start trying to improve this? Might retraction work with a really really slow print speed or greatly reduced retraction distance? Or are there other ways to avoid stringing?\n\",0scar,\"You could enable combing in the slicer. Combing not only prevents retracts, it also uses already laid down paths for movement from one to the other location and as such reduces the amount of stringing.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n8512,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,2.8153892694839717,4.2351111056711055,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.306096197889172,Avoiding stringing with flexible filament,\"I have some flexible PLA filament (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VKSSA4E/, presumably a mix of PLA with some platicizer) that's supposed to be easy to print with settings similar to regular PLA. I've seen recommendations to disable retraction, and indeed I get huge failures to extrude at all for a while after retraction if it's enabled. But with retraction disabled, I get stringing all over the place, and since the material isn't brittle, it's really difficult to remove.\n\nI'm using a bed temp of 60 and print temp of 220, increased from 210 for normal PLA since I had trouble getting it to adhere at lower temp. Printer is Creality Ender 3. Using CuraEngine for slicing. The extruder is feeding the material fine; there's no kinking going on or anything.\n\nWhere should I start trying to improve this? Might retraction work with a really really slow print speed or greatly reduced retraction distance? Or are there other ways to avoid stringing?\n\",R..,\"OK, this turned out to be really idiotic. The main source of the problem was Cura's custom start gcode for my printer (Ender 3), maybe duplicated for other printers too: it crams a massive amount of filament through the extruder to prime it. With flexible filament, this doesn't actually extrude most of it; rather, it just builds up as pressure in the bowden, which makes the first few [tens of] layers ooze like crazy, and then the hot nozzle picks up the ooze and drags it all over the place, and yay, stringing everywhere!\n\nA previous version of this answer (see edit history) described a lot of options I was using to try to improve things, some of them rather dubious. Really, the core of the matter, which can manifest in lots of ways, is that if pressure builds up in the extruder due compression of the material being easier than forcing it through the nozzle, it will ooze during travel, or as a glob prior to travel during ineffective retraction, and either way it will eventually lead to catastrophic stringing. So to solve this, I needed to address all the ways it could happen.\n\n\nFirst was the start gcode. I dropped the extruded material amount over 200mm for the priming from 15mm to 9mm (about 90% nominal material needed rather than 150%) and edited the custom end gcode to revert all but 1mm of the retraction it does, after homing. This reduces the need for wacky over-priming at print start, and makes the state after printing roughly match the state after loading filament, so that print results are independent of whether filament was just loaded or not.\nSecond, pressure can build up again if the extrusion rate is too high for the material, nozzle size, and temperature. At 30 mm/s print rate and 0.3 mm layers, I found I need a ridiculously high temperature like 235 °C to keep it flowing. This in turn produced a lot of sagging of overhangs, so really 0.3 mm layers seem to need significantly slower printing, defeating the purpose. 0.2-0.25 mm seems to flow marginally ok at 30 mm/s and 215°C, which is better behaved with regard to overhangs, and fine at 225 °C.\nI'd noticed previously (in the previous version of this answer) a problem with layer adhesion with temperatures lower than 225 °C. This was not actually a layer adhesion problem but rather an underextrusion problem, the same one causing stringing.\nThe retraction amount still needs to be sufficient to account for the compression of the material in the bowden, plus enough to get it backed out of the hotend. I seem to need at least 15 mm, compared to 5 mm for plain PLA. Note that retraction min travel needs to be disabled (set to 0) to prevent skipping retraction for short moves, where stringing will be the worst.\nHigher retraction speeds seem to work better, and without them the 15 mm retraction is miserably slow. However, I found that my printer's default limits on extruder feedrate and jerk were very low. Adding M203 E200 and M205 E25 to the custom start gcode made it honor my requests for faster retraction, and doesn't seem to have any ill effects.\n\n\nIn summary, the settings that work for me are:\n\n\nAll print speed settings: 30 mm/s or less\nTravel speed: 250 mm/s\nRetraction amount 15 mm\nRetraction speed: 150 mm/s\nRetraction combing: all\nRetraction hop: disabled\nRetraction min travel: 0 mm\nTemperature: 235 for 0.3 mm layers, 215 for 0.2 mm layers\n\n\nAnd the results:\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n8605,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,1.726248027126092,3.0484567768387603,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.306096197889172,Progressively worse relative size error at smaller absolute sizes,\"I'm having a problem where the relative dimensional error of cylinders is rapidly increasing as the absolute size decreases. Printing a calibration stack of cylinders of diameters 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, and 3 mm, they come out undersized by 5%, 5.3%, 7%, 8%, 10%, and 13%, respectively, as measured by a digital caliper. Cubes exhibit a less severe version of the same pattern: 2.5%, 3%, 5%, 4%, 5%, 7%. The cylinders are generated with OpenSCAD using $fn=180, i.e. they're actually extrusions of 180-gons, so the error should not be caused by poor chord approximation; indeed, measuring projections of the model, or reading the gcode and accounting for nozzle width, everything looks right.\n\nPrinter is Ender 3, using PLA at 210. Slicing with CuraEngine.\n\nCould this be caused by underextrusion or print speed issues - or some effect where the material pulls itself together under tight curvature? What techniques might be able to compensate for it, short of fudging the model?\n\nSome additional information: As noted by Trish in the comments, the consistency of the absolute error, which is 0.4 for cylinders and 0.2 for cubes, is likely important. I've also subsequently tested with 110% extrusion rate and the errors for the cylinders dropped to consistently 0.2 mm (still a significant increasing relative error), but the skin layers at the top of the 3 mm cylinder bulged, suggesting the increased extrusion is wrong - an excessive total volume of material.\n\",Trish,\"The increase of the relative error is not an anomaly, it is a direct result of what is the actual error: There is a systematic, absolute error, which is almost the same for all the cylinders and all the cubes. +0.2 mm or +0.4 mm on progressively smaller items gets a progressively bigger relative error. But the source of the absolute error is what you need to compensate for.\n\nFighting bulging for 0.2 mm accuracy\n\nAs you figured out that 110% extrusion did halve the absolute error of the cylindrical test, in conjunction with layer deformation, I suggest to try this:\n\n\nExtrusion/Flow Multiplier 100 %\nLinewidth 0.44 to 0.45 mm\n\n\nThis fights the die swell but also spaces the walls and roofing lines, allowing them to take the extra material. 0.2 mm accuracy is pretty good for a start, you get into the specs of many parts with that, but we want more! \n\nFor a slight increase, measure your filament in a couple of spots and do the average, then use that as filament diameter.\n\nIncreasing Accuracy further\n\nIf you want to go further, proper calibration of the motion system and the extruder are the next steps.\n\nShort Calibration Rundown\n\nThe rundown is extruder first, then possibly the axis.\n\n\nConnect your printer to the PC with an interface such as Pronterface or Repetier Host.\nPlace a mark 150 mm from the intake of the printer\nExtrude 100 mm via G1 E100 F100\nMeasure from the intake to the mark.\nGet the current steps per mm via M503 - it is the E-entry that follows M92\nCalculate $\\frac {\\text{current steps per mm }\\times 100}{150 - \\text {remaining length}}=\\text {new steps per mm}$\nSet the new steps per mm via M92 E###.# and save with M500, verify with M503.\n\n\nThe process for the XYZ axis is pretty much the same, but you don't need to mark filament. Instead, print a known size cube, best with a side length that is a multiple of 10 mm.\n\n\nCalculate $\\frac {\\text{current steps per mm }\\times \\text{ designed length}}{\\text {actual length}}=\\text {new steps per mm}$\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n8605,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,1.726248027126092,3.0484567768387603,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.306096197889172,Progressively worse relative size error at smaller absolute sizes,\"I'm having a problem where the relative dimensional error of cylinders is rapidly increasing as the absolute size decreases. Printing a calibration stack of cylinders of diameters 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, and 3 mm, they come out undersized by 5%, 5.3%, 7%, 8%, 10%, and 13%, respectively, as measured by a digital caliper. Cubes exhibit a less severe version of the same pattern: 2.5%, 3%, 5%, 4%, 5%, 7%. The cylinders are generated with OpenSCAD using $fn=180, i.e. they're actually extrusions of 180-gons, so the error should not be caused by poor chord approximation; indeed, measuring projections of the model, or reading the gcode and accounting for nozzle width, everything looks right.\n\nPrinter is Ender 3, using PLA at 210. Slicing with CuraEngine.\n\nCould this be caused by underextrusion or print speed issues - or some effect where the material pulls itself together under tight curvature? What techniques might be able to compensate for it, short of fudging the model?\n\nSome additional information: As noted by Trish in the comments, the consistency of the absolute error, which is 0.4 for cylinders and 0.2 for cubes, is likely important. I've also subsequently tested with 110% extrusion rate and the errors for the cylinders dropped to consistently 0.2 mm (still a significant increasing relative error), but the skin layers at the top of the 3 mm cylinder bulged, suggesting the increased extrusion is wrong - an excessive total volume of material.\n\",R..,\"This problem seems to have mostly gone away - at least any remaining error is within a margin explainable by my cheap/low-quality digital caliper. Since asking the question, I've made a lot of changes that could contribute, but the biggest factor was probably the loose X-axis timing belt and misaligned X-axis.\n\nSlicer options may also have been involved. For example, Cura's Ender 3 profile attempts to set limits on acceleration speeds, but does so in a way that requires the GUI to compute derived accelerations; if you're using the command line CuraEngine (which I am), all the derived settings are left at the very high defaults.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n8662,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,1.726248027126092,3.304391138419485,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,\"PLA chemical resistances? Especially HCl, other acids\",\"I'm interested in 3d printed reaction chambers, but can't find any good information on chemical resistances of PLA, just vague claims that it \"\"might not be\"\" \"\"because it's biodegradable\"\" or that it depends on additives (likely true, but it would be nice to know if there's hope of finding PLA without problematic additives if the PLA itself is okay). Is there any published research or even anecdotes (which could suggest it's worth spending effort to investigate further) on this topic?\n\",cmm,\"As @T. M. notes in his comment, there are many good charts of chemical compatibility with various agents. Very few (I found none) include information about PLA. By all means, use search engines to find some information.\n\nBut, no data source is as true to your specific needs as is testing your candidate materials with your agents. \n\nAs a first test put the agent in a tall thin jar or test tube. Use a few test filaments so that the ends are dipping into the agent. Check for signs of dissolution, swelling, softening, or any relevant change in the material's characteristics. Examine the candidate filaments right away, then after minutes, then hours, and if any material survives, perhaps in days.\n\nPrint test objects. Test them with your agent. Try until you find something that works.\n\nThe online material compatibility tables will help you eliminate materials before testing them. If it says a material is incompatible, it probably is incompatible. If rated as highly compatible, it should be tested because the formulation of a filament may not match the material tested for the compatibility tables. If you are running out of options, try the intermediate compatibility plastics.\n\nBottom line, use the online information to help direct your search, but you should do your own tests.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n9807,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,2.1782824847157594,3.1584864133350328,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Damage to bed surface from heat or chemical or..?,\"The original bed surface of my Ender 3 has become brittle and finally cracked, requiring replacement. I'm trying to figure out what the cause might have been to avoid it happening again. It seems to have started after using \"\"flex PLA\"\", which involves both high temperatures (225 °C) and plasticizers mixed in the PLA. Could either of these have contributed to the problem? I'm not sure what material the bed surface is - it's the new one that's removable and held on by clips. If it's PEI, the glass transition temperature is supposedly 217 °C, just above what I use for normal PLA but well below what I'm using for the flex, so perhaps that's the cause?\n\nImage of the damage: \n\",Trish,\"The material used for the Build surface is not PEI but a BuildTak Clone that offers adhesion through a rough surface texture. I do not know what exactly is in the composition of the polymer, but I can say that my bed surface needed replacement about 9 months after purchase after I vigorously removed a piece I printed. As a matter of fact, most build surfaces - even PEI - are pretty much going to wear out over time and need occasional replacement. Luckily, a build surface isn't expensive usually.\n\nTo prolong the life of the bed surface, I suggest:\n\n\ncheck the nozzle distance to the bed, as printing too close can make plastic residue extremely hard to remove.\nbe very careful when using sharp tools to remove parts - don't let a corner bite into the surface!\ndon't use a soldering iron or hot air gun on the build platform to remove stuck parts, you'll melt the surface and degrade it\nclean the surface at times.\n\n\nHowever, replacing the bed is easy enough, as I found out here.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n9807,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,2.1782824847157594,3.1584864133350328,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Damage to bed surface from heat or chemical or..?,\"The original bed surface of my Ender 3 has become brittle and finally cracked, requiring replacement. I'm trying to figure out what the cause might have been to avoid it happening again. It seems to have started after using \"\"flex PLA\"\", which involves both high temperatures (225 °C) and plasticizers mixed in the PLA. Could either of these have contributed to the problem? I'm not sure what material the bed surface is - it's the new one that's removable and held on by clips. If it's PEI, the glass transition temperature is supposedly 217 °C, just above what I use for normal PLA but well below what I'm using for the flex, so perhaps that's the cause?\n\nImage of the damage: \n\",E Doe,\"The build surface on the Ender3 is a BuildTak clone. The picture is a bit unclear, but given my experience with BuildTak (clones) this certainly damage because of heat. You can, as suggested before, replace the bed surface, but I do not think it is necessary at this stage. \n\nNormally these surfaces do not get damaged that easily but to prolong the life try to keep the following points in mind:\n\n\nCorrect height between nozzle and bed.\nDon't let the nozzle heat up/cool down close to the bed (for example after a failed first layer).\nWhen using sharp tools to remove prints be careful nut to dig into the surface.\nDon't use too high of a bed temperature (my BuildTak clone once had bubbles forming because the layers separated)\nClean/degrease the bed, although this is more to ensure proper bed adhesion.\nI found out that if the bed stops sticking you can revive it by sanding it a bit.\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n9808,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,2.1782824847157594,3.697472914088804,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Filament mixer?,\"I've seen questions about (like What is stopping us from mixing 3d filament colors in an Extruder?) and some solutions for mixing filament colors/materials at print time for multi-color printing, but my question is different: Are there any (affordable) commercially available devices, or DIY/homebrew solutions, for taking 2 or more 1.75 mm filaments, mixing them in proportion, and extruding back as 1.75 mm filament for use in a printer?\n\nIn principle it should just take N extruder drives fed a the right proportional rates, one of the multi-input hotends, a 1.75 mm extrusion nozzle, and another drive to pull the extruded filament at the right rate to keep the diameter stable. But I'm curious if anyone's tried and tuned this. Another approach might be taking a hotend made for 3 mm filament, drilling the nozzle orifice out to 1.75 mm, and feeding 3 pieces of 1.75 mm filament into it at once (size seems to match pretty closely).\n\nMy interest in this is that I mostly print small things, and it takes months to go through even a single kg of filament, so it's impractical to buy and keep around a bunch of different colors. I'd also like to be able to experiment with mixing flex PLA and plain PLA to get a material with a lot less plasticizer, so that it's not flexible, just less brittle.\n\nShredding into pellets and measuring out ratios is too much overhead to make it worth it. The key part of the question is doing it direct from filament to filament.\n\",Trish,\"Making your own filament\n\nTheoretically, this could be done with any filament producing equipment by taking the two filaments and shredding them into pellets and feeding them to the machine in the right mix for the color you want. Industrial setups like a Filabot are heavy, large and expensive though.\n\nLuckily, hobbyist filament making setups exist. They vary in price and quality but can achieve ok to good results, if you tinker with them a little. Among the kits that I have seen to work is the Filastruder, but there are also DIY instructables that cost less than 200 $.\n\nObtaining pellets\n\nIf you are good with mechanics, you might design a feed mechanism that pushes the part filaments with known feed rate into a cutter to pelletize the filament in the wanted amounts to each other, creating a homogenous mix over the length of the filament.\n\nBlended waste\n\nAs an alternative to self-made pellets to mix in the hopper for the filament maker, one can use shredded waste prints/support structures. After smashing the material to rough chunks, using a blender to gain evenly sized small chunks of 1-2 mm, the stuff should be small enough to feed through the hopper without a problem. the blender also would take care of proper mixing and could take raw filament to mix with used ones.\n\nMixing in the hotend\n\nMixing filaments in the hotend would need a specialized hotend with two feed ends into the melt zone and two extruders that push the filaments with the same feed rate. The modification of the feeding system would be extensive and demand a custom firmware.\n\nSplicing filaments\n\nAnother possibility would be a machine that splices the filament in a defined manner. One machine that might be able to do this seems to be the Palette 2 by Mosaic, but it costs (April 2019) round 600 USD. Another possibility could be to use the multi-material upgrade of a Prusa i3 Mk3.\n\nThis would generate however a non-homogenous mix of the filaments, the transition zones changing from high concentrations of material A to high concentrations of material B whenever the materials swap. Even with very short areas of spliced material the mix will be inconsistent. With colored filaments, this could generate a rainbow pattern.\n\",0.0,0.0\n9808,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,2.1782824847157594,3.697472914088804,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Filament mixer?,\"I've seen questions about (like What is stopping us from mixing 3d filament colors in an Extruder?) and some solutions for mixing filament colors/materials at print time for multi-color printing, but my question is different: Are there any (affordable) commercially available devices, or DIY/homebrew solutions, for taking 2 or more 1.75 mm filaments, mixing them in proportion, and extruding back as 1.75 mm filament for use in a printer?\n\nIn principle it should just take N extruder drives fed a the right proportional rates, one of the multi-input hotends, a 1.75 mm extrusion nozzle, and another drive to pull the extruded filament at the right rate to keep the diameter stable. But I'm curious if anyone's tried and tuned this. Another approach might be taking a hotend made for 3 mm filament, drilling the nozzle orifice out to 1.75 mm, and feeding 3 pieces of 1.75 mm filament into it at once (size seems to match pretty closely).\n\nMy interest in this is that I mostly print small things, and it takes months to go through even a single kg of filament, so it's impractical to buy and keep around a bunch of different colors. I'd also like to be able to experiment with mixing flex PLA and plain PLA to get a material with a lot less plasticizer, so that it's not flexible, just less brittle.\n\nShredding into pellets and measuring out ratios is too much overhead to make it worth it. The key part of the question is doing it direct from filament to filament.\n\",R..,\"OK, it just turned up on Thingiverse that someone has demonstrated a trivial machine to do exactly what I asked for: any FDM printer.\n\n\n Its sounds crazy, but it works! This technique will allow you to create one offs, and to color match your 3D-prints.\n \n It works by changing the filament (and the color) of your filament while printing, and this causes a multi colored filament, that can be printed again to archive a homogenic-color.\n\n\n\n\nSource 3D-Printable Filament! -Print Your Own Filament for Multi-Color!, with demonstration video.\n\nI'm in the process of trying this and it looks promising! The filament:\n\n\n\nmeasures 1.65-1.75 mm in diameter and feeds and extrudes cleanly.\n\nThe first test print:\n\n\n\ncame out somewhat underextruded, but decent, with uniform mixing of color. Mixed filaments were white flex PLA and blue regular PLA, and the plasticizer seems to have mixed as expected too, but the print feels brittle due to underextrusion still. I suspect with some tuning of flow printing the filament, very good results could be had.\n\nOn further inspection, the brittleness/underextrusion seems to be somewhat localized, so it likely comes from inconsistent diameter/density of printed filament. This actually seems consistent with what I saw from the slicer output for printing the filament: there were regions at +/- 45 degrees (+ or - depending on layer) in the spiral where it seems like wall gaps differed and extra gap fill material did or didn't get printed. This could be a slicer bug but it seems more likely it's a bug in the model, and I'd probably do better to recreate it myself in OpenSCAD...\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10035,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,3.0576060275493275,4.839628414958741,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.265283966335819,PETG layer adhesion,\"I've been playing around with PETG for the first time, and everything seemingly worked right just from the start - clean prints, no stringing, no bed adhesion problems, no warping or dimensional accuracy problems, etc. As expected it prints a lot like PLA, and as expected, it's less brittle/stands up much better to crushing/impact, except that it's really brittle when it comes to inter-layer adhesion. Vertical cylinders that were fairly strong in PLA just snap with no effort as PETG.\n\nMy particular PETG filament is Sunlu, with recommended print temperature 230-250 °C. I started out with 235 and am now using 250, which does somewhat better. I've used layer heights 0.125 - 0.2 mm.\n\nAre these kind of results normal? Is there anything I should be doing to get better adhesion between layers?\n\",0scar,\"What you describe is usually the result of using a too high of a part cooling fan rotational speed. Like ABS, PETG doesn't require much cooling (if needed at all that is). If you do cool too much, layers and perimeters do not bond optimally (you can get string cheese like printed parts on failure). \n\nWhy should you use cooling for PETG?\nCooling helps cool the deposited filament on small cross sectional parts. If un-cooled, the printed part picks up too much heat and will deform or sag out.\n\nIn such cases, reduce cooling to 40 % to start with (another option is to print more parts or increase minimal layer time). Note that there are so many print cooling fan constructions, some more effective than others, so you need to tune the print cooling fan speed to your setup. E.g. for an Ultimaker 3E I get good results at 50 % fan speed, for other self-build printers with effective part cooling solutions, 40 % works best (printed several kilometers of 2.85 mm PETG). First few layers don't need any cooling at all.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n10035,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,3.0576060275493275,4.839628414958741,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.265283966335819,PETG layer adhesion,\"I've been playing around with PETG for the first time, and everything seemingly worked right just from the start - clean prints, no stringing, no bed adhesion problems, no warping or dimensional accuracy problems, etc. As expected it prints a lot like PLA, and as expected, it's less brittle/stands up much better to crushing/impact, except that it's really brittle when it comes to inter-layer adhesion. Vertical cylinders that were fairly strong in PLA just snap with no effort as PETG.\n\nMy particular PETG filament is Sunlu, with recommended print temperature 230-250 °C. I started out with 235 and am now using 250, which does somewhat better. I've used layer heights 0.125 - 0.2 mm.\n\nAre these kind of results normal? Is there anything I should be doing to get better adhesion between layers?\n\",Nach0z,\"PETG doesn't bond well if the layers aren't both at a fairly high temperature, as noted by the other answers. As mentioned, try reducing or simply turning off layer cooling. Additionally, try printing at a smaller layer height, or increased line width, to force the layers to bond more effectively. A final solution would possibly be to print a wall around the part, as many people without enclosures do for ABS prints, to keep the part nice and hot until the nozzle can deposit another layer on top. Works best when paired with higher bed temps. I personally had to print PETG around 25 degrees above the \"\"max\"\" recommended temperature to get good layer adhesion on my fleabay i3 clone.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10059,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,1.0891412423578797,4.671193896368434,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Ender 3 X axis not level,\"I've been aware ever since I got it that my Ender 3's X-axis isn't level. Measuring from the top of it to the top of the frame, the right-hand (positive) side is about 4.7mm higher than the left.\n\nDuring assembly, the vertical rails were not entirely parallel, and had to be pulled together to get the X axis on and to bolt the cross beam on the top. I suspect this is related, but I'm not sure.\n\nAnyway, aside from the bed having to be tilted to be level with respect to the X axis, this never seemed to cause any problem, so I've left it alone until now. However I have measured almost exactly a 1% dimensional error in the X direction that I've now compensated for by setting the steps per mm, and wonder if the tilted axis could be the cause. Doing the trig, that doesn't make sense - a 4.7 mm error across the width of the bed should translate to something like one part in 2000, not 1%. But maybe something's wrong in my analysis so I'd like second opinions.\n\nAside from that, is this something I should try to correct, or just let be? I suspect it's the base that's warped or tapped/cut incorrectly where the vertical rails bolt on, in which case it seems unlikely there's any way to fix it without replacing that part, which is something I'd rather not get into as long as the printer is working. But if there are other possibilities that are non-invasive to try, I might.\n\n\n\n\n\nFurther update: if this is the cause of the dimensional error (which turned out to be more like 0.41% than 1%, thus closer to plausible) I probably need to fix it. Using firmware steps/mm adjustment is not viable because it produces aliasing patterns in skin layers presumably due to step width no longer dividing nozzle size/line width.\n\",R..,\"So I disassembled the printer and first found something very suspicious: the left (Z-motor side) vertical rail was not mounted flush against the base, because the edge of the control board cover panel was under the edge of it. Fixing this made the vertical rails parallel and made the X-axis unit easily slide back on, but it did not fix the issue; the X-axis was still non-level.\n\nNext, I started playing with eccentric nuts, which was probably a mistake. They were already the appropriate tightness, and I might have messed them up, in which case I'll have to go back and tune them more later. I then found a second point of adjustment: the attachment of the roughly-triangular bracket that holds the three roller wheels on the right side to the X-axis aluminum extrusion rail. I as soon as I loosened the bolts, I was able to get a plenty play to level the axis. In order to get it level, with the top beam mounted, I raised both sides so that the top outer wheels would hit the plastic end caps of the top beam. This relied on a dubious assumption that the triangular roller wheel arrangements on both sides are symmetric, but it seems correct, and after re-tightening the bracket, lowering it to the bed, and re-leveling the bed, everything seems fully level.\n\nFurther, after the fix, my dimensional accuracy test piece is 119.6 mm instead of 119.5 mm, which works out to the difference before the fix being undersized by 0.084%, very close to my \"\"1 part in 2000\"\" estimate of the error that the non-level axis should cause. Sadly it still wasn't 120.0 mm like it should be, so I went looking for another source of the inaccuracy. Tensioning the X-axis belt seems to have done the job, and I'm now getting 120.0 mm.\n\nI took some pictures in the process, which I'll try to attach later to improve this answer for others who may hit the same problem.\n\nCaveats: In the process of doing this, I badly messed up the Z axis. I was getting prints coming out almost 1mm shorter than they should be and having to relevel the bed continually. The whole system is \"\"over-constrained\"\" by all the points at which it can be tightened, so if anything is inconsistent when it's tightened, everything goes catastrophically wrong. This entry on Maker Steve's blog was very helpful in figuring out how to get it back in order. After making the adjustments, however, I still had a problem: a horrible grinding squeal whenever the Z motor moved in the negative direction. It turned out I'd also over-tightened the screws holding the Z lead screw nut on the carriage (after mistakenly removing it during all this), forgetting that the assembly instructions specify that it shouldn't be tightened down. loosening both screws by about half a turn finally got everything working right again.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n10059,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,1.0891412423578797,4.671193896368434,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Ender 3 X axis not level,\"I've been aware ever since I got it that my Ender 3's X-axis isn't level. Measuring from the top of it to the top of the frame, the right-hand (positive) side is about 4.7mm higher than the left.\n\nDuring assembly, the vertical rails were not entirely parallel, and had to be pulled together to get the X axis on and to bolt the cross beam on the top. I suspect this is related, but I'm not sure.\n\nAnyway, aside from the bed having to be tilted to be level with respect to the X axis, this never seemed to cause any problem, so I've left it alone until now. However I have measured almost exactly a 1% dimensional error in the X direction that I've now compensated for by setting the steps per mm, and wonder if the tilted axis could be the cause. Doing the trig, that doesn't make sense - a 4.7 mm error across the width of the bed should translate to something like one part in 2000, not 1%. But maybe something's wrong in my analysis so I'd like second opinions.\n\nAside from that, is this something I should try to correct, or just let be? I suspect it's the base that's warped or tapped/cut incorrectly where the vertical rails bolt on, in which case it seems unlikely there's any way to fix it without replacing that part, which is something I'd rather not get into as long as the printer is working. But if there are other possibilities that are non-invasive to try, I might.\n\n\n\n\n\nFurther update: if this is the cause of the dimensional error (which turned out to be more like 0.41% than 1%, thus closer to plausible) I probably need to fix it. Using firmware steps/mm adjustment is not viable because it produces aliasing patterns in skin layers presumably due to step width no longer dividing nozzle size/line width.\n\",window,\"i've just bought an Ender 3 Pro and on assembly I carefully checked and deburred the uprigh rails on their bottom faces to ensure they did not splay out or in etc.\n\nOnce the 2 uprights are loosely attached to the base rails I laid the assembly flat onto a table on the uprights to ensure the uprights were square to one another and tightened the screws.\n\nCheck the uprights are parallel to one another by placing the top crossbeam on the top of the uprights and check if the screw holes are alligned...….if the screws are tight to enter their holes the uprights are splayed out or in and need correcting etc......a small amount of pressure \"\"can\"\" make them line up. \n\nThe X axis rail slides up and down on the two uprights with two 3 wheeled brackets, one either side, that have 3 wheels on them, one wheel on each bracket is the adjuster and it is easy to have the X axis cross beam out of square if you tighten the one bracket to the rail before you test the rail for squareness.\n\nFirstly, place only the 2 wheel brackets on their uprights and adjust the wheels for smooth running, then attach the X axis rail to each wheel bracket and just nip up the 2 screws loosely to hold them to the cross beam.\n\nNow, check the cross beam for squareness by running it to the top of the uprights and measuring the gap left to right between the X axis rail and the top rail, then tighten the left hand wheel bracket screws to the X axis rail......and then tighten the right hand wheel bracket to the cross beam.\n\nLeave the Z axis leadscrew off for the moment and run the crossbeam up and down on the uprights making sure there are no tight spots due to out of squareness.\n\nif it's all freely moving.....fit the Z axis leadscrew.\n\nThe bed plate can only be set once you have the machine itself squared up.\nIan.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10090,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,2.1782824847157594,3.2230983134145625,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,1.878685800062712,Can commodity 3d printer extrusion hardware and filament be used for injection molding?,\"Assuming you have a suitable oven to maintain temperature at the filament's melting point and a suitable mold that can handle the temperature, is a commodity 3d printer hotend and extruder, with large nozzle, suitable for injecting material into the mold? I'm thinking of a setup like having the hotend mounted through a wall of the oven, braced against a hole in the mold inside the oven, and feeding filament via motor or manual cranking outside. Or is much higher pressure needed to make something like this work?\n\nCertainly there are better setups to do this for manufacturing at scale, but the point of this question is whether you can do it with minimal setup effort and cost using commodity parts and filaments rather than needing expensive or custom-built equipment and material sourcing.\n\nFor relevance to the site in case it's questionable: certainly if this technique is possible, it could be used along with initial 3d printing of a design and using that to produce a (e.g. high-temperature epoxy) mold.\n\",cmm,\"An injection molding injector melts all the plastic needed for the shot and pushes it into the mold and through the sprue very quickly. Perhaps that is why it is called a \"\"shot\"\".\n\nInjection molding machines do not heat the mold to plastic-melting temperatures. This works because the plastic is injected quickly, and fills the mold before the plastic cools. Molds are designed so that this happens, and often include multiple thick sprues to direct plastic to all parts of the hold.\n\nInjecting with a 3D printer extruder will be a slow process. If the mold is not above the melting point, the plastic will cool and likely become a tangle of thread at the entrance of the mold. To combat that, you could heat the mold. This is doable, and will suitable insulation the temperature of the cold end and the extruder should be acceptable.\n\nWith the mold heated, you would inject plastic until the mold is full. The mold heater would then be disabled and the mold would cool. This would take a long time.\n\nInjection molding machines typically have water-cooled molds to cool the plastic more quickly. Time is money for an injection molding factory, and cooling quickly is key to productivity.\n\nFor the 3D printer injection molding machine, the time when the plastic is hot could be fairly long -- longer than would typically be found in injection molding. I am concerned that some plastics, perhaps such as PLA, would degrade or burn during the long molten time. Experience would be required.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10090,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,2.1782824847157594,3.2230983134145625,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,1.878685800062712,Can commodity 3d printer extrusion hardware and filament be used for injection molding?,\"Assuming you have a suitable oven to maintain temperature at the filament's melting point and a suitable mold that can handle the temperature, is a commodity 3d printer hotend and extruder, with large nozzle, suitable for injecting material into the mold? I'm thinking of a setup like having the hotend mounted through a wall of the oven, braced against a hole in the mold inside the oven, and feeding filament via motor or manual cranking outside. Or is much higher pressure needed to make something like this work?\n\nCertainly there are better setups to do this for manufacturing at scale, but the point of this question is whether you can do it with minimal setup effort and cost using commodity parts and filaments rather than needing expensive or custom-built equipment and material sourcing.\n\nFor relevance to the site in case it's questionable: certainly if this technique is possible, it could be used along with initial 3d printing of a design and using that to produce a (e.g. high-temperature epoxy) mold.\n\",Nach0z,\"Injection molding requires two major components: pressure and heat. So your question can be broken down into those two halves: can your average extruder handle injection molding temperatures, and can it handle injection molding pressures?\n\nLet's start with pressure.\nPer this page on the University of Minnesota's site, plastic injection molding tends to require pressures of around 2 to 8 tons per square inch. Assuming you're using a 0.4mm nozzle, which has a cross-section of 0.126 mm^2, that works out to be 0.000195 (1.95E-4) square inches, which translates to about 3lb of pressure total at the nozzle assuming you're going for the high end of 8 tons (16,000lb). However because of the way that you're treating the molten filament in the extruder as a hydraulic fluid, you've got to deal with the fact that the \"\"piston\"\" on one end is actually quite a lot larger area, which means you have to multiply the force by that difference in size. The cross-section of 1.75mm filament is approx. 9.62 mm^2, or 0.149 in^2. That's 76.4 times larger, which means you need to be pushing on the end of that filament with roundabout 230 pounds, or 105kg, of force.\n\nFor reference, the Nema 17 that's on my extruder is spec'd at 76 oz-in of torque, geared down 4:1 through a Wade's extruder, and then acting on a hobbed gear with a 6mm effective diameter (3mm radius). Much to my own surprise, as I write this, that means that my little plastic extruder is actually capable of just north of 160lb of force! All these numbers would need to be recalculated for 3mm filament, and I have no experience with 3mm, so we're going to skip that one for now. \n\nNow, that being said, my extruder is also capable of shredding filament if conditions aren't just right. The main two problems you'll have to overcome is 1) gripping the filament hard enough without destroying it, and 2) keeping the filament from buckling. I think if you got clever with some gears keeping multiple hobbed gears synced up, and a polished aluminum or steel feed tube, you could absolutely make your own extruder that's capable of consistently putting 300+ pounds of force on your plastic filament without it buckling or stripping. The downside is that your feed rates are going to be fairly slow, so each injection molding is likely going to take you quite a bit of time. A larger motor such as a beefy NEMA23 might help offset that by giving you much higher torque at higher speeds, so long as you can melt the filament fast enough. However we'll need to revisit these pressure numbers in a few moments, after I explain a few things about temperature.\n\nNext, let's look at temperatures. Obviously we know that we can melt the filament itself as it's moving through the extruder. Using a Volcano nozzle or something, you can even guarantee molten filament at a fairly high extrusion rate. However most printers are designed such that the filament cools to solid (60-80 C normally) almost immediately. Injection molding designs require that the entire mass of plastic be kept molten. Fortunately, ABS and PLA melting temps are easily reached by literally any toaster oven, so stick your setup in there and you're golden, right?\n\nBut wait, there's more!\nOne of the problems you'll run into immediately is that extruders are carefully designed so that the plastic is molten for as little time as possible, because molten plastic against a metal tube introduces a bunch of friction, hence the need for super high pressures during injection molding. If the plastic melts too soon, then you'll clog up your heatsink (the \"\"cold\"\" side of the extruder), and won't be able to extrude at all. This is a fairly common source of jams in 3d printing, where you're extruding too slowly and there's not enough cooling on the heatsink. Fortunately, E3D sells a water-cooled Titan extruder that would keep the heatsink cool. However the rest of your gearing assembly, and the motor, will also need active cooling, as heat damages the permanent magnets in the rotors, and the printed geared assembly obviously will melt if put inside an oven. Your best bet might be a water-cooled Bowden setup, assuming you can find tube fittings that can withstand several hundred pounds of force. You might look into using solid tubes like brake line rather than your normal PTFE shenanigans.\n\nTL;DR:\nGet you a water-cooled extruder, make a super-strong bowden setup, and gear down a huge motor with a bunch of synchronized hobbed gears, and you might actually pull it off! There's plenty of Thingiverse extruder files you can use as a starting point. \n\nAs far as commercially available extruders go, however, I don't think you're going to find anything that's immediately available that can handle what you need it to without some level of modification depending on your selected injection pressures. \n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n10314,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,2.1782824847157594,2.998962115503461,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Choice of lead for lead screw,\"This video brought to my attention the 8 mm lead of the Ender 3's Z axis screw, which seems like an exceedingly bad choice from a standpoint of accuracy with respect to common grid alignments in the Z direction. In particular, with the stepper having 200 full steps per rotation, the 8 mm lead consumes all the powers of two out of 200, leaving 25 full steps per mm - and 25ths of a mm are not a typical unit that layer heights/feature heights are going to be in. It seems like a 5 mm lead would be ideal, giving you 40 steps per mm, evenly divisible by 3 powers of 2 and one power of 5, for exact tenths and exact eights.\n\nIs there a motivation behind the choice of 8 mm lead? Is this common for other printers, and are there printers that use a 5 mm lead, or 5 mm replacements that work well?\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"Well, you can use the screw with the size you can get easily, but sometimes can be messy at the time to mount to the printer, for example I'm using on two printers a standard thread 1/4 which measures 6.35 mm so is a little hard to coupling.\n\n\n\nHowever milling the thread this can be mounted correctly, but the screw is soft and can be bent or warped easily making your printer wobbly and and produces failed prints.\n\n\n\nHowever I´m satisfied with the printing quality and I can set prints with 0.1 and can increase 0.05 by 0.05\n\nNow I want to mount an screw of 10 mm to minimize wobbling generated by those warped (bow) that repeats variation on size (x,y) on every cycle or every revolution. The 10mm screw are completely straight. I don't think that the stepper motors can be compromised with an extra weight.\n\nSo, Z layers can be at 0.05 mm but it can be achieved 0.02 mm tested until now. But wider diameter can achieve smooth edges.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10314,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,2.1782824847157594,2.998962115503461,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Choice of lead for lead screw,\"This video brought to my attention the 8 mm lead of the Ender 3's Z axis screw, which seems like an exceedingly bad choice from a standpoint of accuracy with respect to common grid alignments in the Z direction. In particular, with the stepper having 200 full steps per rotation, the 8 mm lead consumes all the powers of two out of 200, leaving 25 full steps per mm - and 25ths of a mm are not a typical unit that layer heights/feature heights are going to be in. It seems like a 5 mm lead would be ideal, giving you 40 steps per mm, evenly divisible by 3 powers of 2 and one power of 5, for exact tenths and exact eights.\n\nIs there a motivation behind the choice of 8 mm lead? Is this common for other printers, and are there printers that use a 5 mm lead, or 5 mm replacements that work well?\n\",0scar,\"I've not seen trapezoid lead screws with 5 mm lead, you can get 5 mm lead ball screws though.\n\nOn one printer I use 4 mm lead screws to get native 0.02 mm resolution (so 5 full steps for 0.1 mm, 10 for 0.2 mm, etc.). I also geared down 8 mm lead screws with a 2:1 ratio (e.g. to use a single Z-stepper driving a belt that drives 2 lead screws), works fine.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10327,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,3.0576060275493275,2.998962115503461,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,What actual dyes are used in filaments?,\"I've seen several questions about dyes in regards to food-safety, with no conclusive answers, as well as anecdotes on the RepRap wiki about how the mechanical properties of dyed PLA tend to vary by color. The general unsatisfactory answer is that dyes and additives used are proprietary secrets of filament manufacturers. However, 3D printer filament is a sufficiently large industry, with sufficiently many players now, that many of these \"\"secrets\"\" surely have to be \"\"open secrets\"\" to some extent by now.\n\nWhat is known about what types of dyes and additives that tend to be used in filaments for 3D printing? Is there information on distinguishing between them with optical, chemical, etc. properties?\n\nMy thought is that by knowing some of the common dyes used by some manufacturers, it would be possible to:\n\n\nchoose those if interested in properties of them, and; \ndevise test procedures to evaluate if a different/\"\"generic\"\" filament seems to be using the same ones.\n\n\",cmm,\"I spoke with a chemist tonight. He said to start with the SDS (or MSDS) for the filament, which is required to be available for most materials. It should list the pigments and additives if they are not recognized as safe. If they are safe, non-toxic, not flammable, non-reactive, they might not be disclosed on the data sheet. \n\nHe warns that sometimes the SDS lists just an industry name for a common pigment, and sometimes is the full chemical name. IMO, Google may help with translation. \n\nThe chemist has a deep background in color science and pigments. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10327,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,3.0576060275493275,2.998962115503461,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,What actual dyes are used in filaments?,\"I've seen several questions about dyes in regards to food-safety, with no conclusive answers, as well as anecdotes on the RepRap wiki about how the mechanical properties of dyed PLA tend to vary by color. The general unsatisfactory answer is that dyes and additives used are proprietary secrets of filament manufacturers. However, 3D printer filament is a sufficiently large industry, with sufficiently many players now, that many of these \"\"secrets\"\" surely have to be \"\"open secrets\"\" to some extent by now.\n\nWhat is known about what types of dyes and additives that tend to be used in filaments for 3D printing? Is there information on distinguishing between them with optical, chemical, etc. properties?\n\nMy thought is that by knowing some of the common dyes used by some manufacturers, it would be possible to:\n\n\nchoose those if interested in properties of them, and; \ndevise test procedures to evaluate if a different/\"\"generic\"\" filament seems to be using the same ones.\n\n\",Trish,\"No Dyes at all.\n\nYour question is based on a misconception:\n\n\n A dye is a coloured substance that chemically bonds to the substrate to which it is being applied, this distinguishes dyes from pigments which do not chemically bind to the material they colour.Wikipedia\n\n\nThe coloration does not chemically bond with the plastic in production. It is thus a pigment that is melted into the filament.\n\nPigments\n\nThe range of pigments is ginormous. They start as simple as pure carbon black, range over natural occurring ones such as zinc white (ZnO) to products of chemistry like the dark blue copper phthalocyanine. Some pigments of these are toxic (lead white), others are also carcinogenic (chrome yellow), others are atop that radioactive (uranium trioxide, aka uranium yellow). \n\nBut what is actually used for coloring the filaments? Usually, manufacturers choose their pigments carefully based on 3 factors:\n\n\nthermally stable in the printing range\nas non-toxic as possible (to avoid needing to declare it on the MSDS)\nas cheap as possible to work with\n\n\nUsually, this rules out all the highly toxic and radioactive ones, as that demands extreme caution to work with, upping prices. \n\nWhat's used?\n\nUsually, we can't know. While the list of inorganic pigments is rather limited in some areas, it is by far not complete. It's better to take a look at the Forbes Pigment Database, which lists 11 categories of white pigments, 9 of them by chemical composition, one by origin and one for 3 samples of unknown composition. The 2 categories of violet pigments contain 20 different samples. \n\nBut why don't we know?\n\nIn most cases, the color of plastic does not bring any danger or changes the properties more significant than changing its melting point. As the chosen pigments are inert to most treatments, they don't need to be listed on the MSDS, and thus omitted, allowing the companies to keep them a trade secret that helps them compete against other companies for only they have this one specific color.\n\nOur best indicator for what pigments are used thus is, if they use a trade name for a filament, such as \"\"ultramarine blue\"\", which however might not be in the filament at all.\n\nWhen do we know?\n\nIn some cases, we might actually know what they put into a roll of filament based on odd characteristics. \n\nFor example phosphorescent green filament. It is most commonly made with either zinc sulfide or strontium aluminate, and we can rule out one or the other based on how bright they glow on the dark photo.\n\nAnother case in which we know what is in the filament is in the case of metal infused filaments, where it is part of the advertisement, that these filaments contain some amount of one metal powder or another. For example, the rusting filament contains iron. Then there is also filament that contains up to 80 % metal powder. Another similar bucket are wood- and stonefill filaments, where wood fibers or ceramics were added to give color and texture.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10346,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,1.0891412423578797,3.565257109573455,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,Does this microstepping test result indicate need for TL smoothers?,\"Note: The \"\"TL smoothers\"\" referred to in the question title are an arrangement of 8 diodes that presumably both provide a voltage drop to address the minimum current output issue of some stepper drivers described in How Accurate Is Microstepping Really, and provide flyback protection and protection of the driver from currents induced by moving the motor in the unpowered state.\n\nNow, on to the question:\n\nI put together a simple test part to test Y (or X) axis microstepping accuracy:\n\n\n\nEvery 1mm in the Z direction, the face steps inward 1/80 mm (corresponding to my printer's [micro]steps per mm setting) in the Y direction and 1 mm in the X direction (to clearly show where the steps happen).\n\nHere are the results (two runs, near-identical output):\n\n\n\n\nSeveral of the steps are missing entirely, and it's the middle vertical surface, rather than the side two stepped-vertical surfaces, that shows a step-like texture.\n\nNote that layers have been printed counter-clockwise, but the design with steps on both sides is to try to reduce the impact of print orientation so as not to depend on what the slicer decides to do. Print speed was 30 mm/s for outer walls, with outer walls set to be printed first so they're not affected by already-printed inner ones.\n\nThis looks to me like an indication that microstepping is not working accurately, and seems to agree partly with this article: https://hackaday.com/2016/08/29/how-accurate-is-microstepping-really/\n\nWould TL smoothers improve this? My printer is an Ender 3, seemingly the latest revision at the time it was sold (December 2018) based on the bed and other aspects. Some threads I found suggested that this was a problem with older Ender 3s that was fixed in later revisions and that TL smoothers won't help, but it looks to me like it's not fixed.\n\nUpdate: With settings adjusted for 0 jerk and 50 mm/s² acceleration in the outer walls, I got a somewhat improved result:\n\n\n\nAll steps are clearly visible, but at the reduced and more varying speed, artifacts of the extruder motor accuracy (or maybe just bowden latency) are much worse, and at the steps the \"\"overshoot and bounce back\"\" effect is still happening. Is this consistent with a situation where the TL smoothers I asked about could benefit?\n\nUpdate 2: I've further tested with leaving acceleration at default (500 mm/s²) and just disabling \"\"jerk\"\", i.e. \"\"instantaneous\"\" change in speed. The results are at least as good as the above with slow acceleration. What strikes me most is that the \"\"overshoot then bounce back\"\" happens outward from the model on both edges, rather than inward on the righthand side where the (CCW moving) nozzle is turning inward. Could this indicate that there's no microstepping accuracy problem at all, and that the artifact is purely from excess extrusion as the corner is turned?\n\nUpdated pic (new one below):\n\n\n\",entropicCreator,\"It's worth remembering that the smaller the fraction of the step, the less torque is going to be available at that step. here is one link but there are many others that explain it as well. it looks to me like you have inconsistent friction in your system, or possibly some flex/warping of the frame. it might also be easier to see with a smaller nozzle\n\nedit because i forgot to actually answer the question: no, by itself it does not indicate that smoothers would help. this does not mean that they wont, just that this does not look definitive to me\n\",0.0,0.0\n10346,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,1.0891412423578797,3.565257109573455,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,Does this microstepping test result indicate need for TL smoothers?,\"Note: The \"\"TL smoothers\"\" referred to in the question title are an arrangement of 8 diodes that presumably both provide a voltage drop to address the minimum current output issue of some stepper drivers described in How Accurate Is Microstepping Really, and provide flyback protection and protection of the driver from currents induced by moving the motor in the unpowered state.\n\nNow, on to the question:\n\nI put together a simple test part to test Y (or X) axis microstepping accuracy:\n\n\n\nEvery 1mm in the Z direction, the face steps inward 1/80 mm (corresponding to my printer's [micro]steps per mm setting) in the Y direction and 1 mm in the X direction (to clearly show where the steps happen).\n\nHere are the results (two runs, near-identical output):\n\n\n\n\nSeveral of the steps are missing entirely, and it's the middle vertical surface, rather than the side two stepped-vertical surfaces, that shows a step-like texture.\n\nNote that layers have been printed counter-clockwise, but the design with steps on both sides is to try to reduce the impact of print orientation so as not to depend on what the slicer decides to do. Print speed was 30 mm/s for outer walls, with outer walls set to be printed first so they're not affected by already-printed inner ones.\n\nThis looks to me like an indication that microstepping is not working accurately, and seems to agree partly with this article: https://hackaday.com/2016/08/29/how-accurate-is-microstepping-really/\n\nWould TL smoothers improve this? My printer is an Ender 3, seemingly the latest revision at the time it was sold (December 2018) based on the bed and other aspects. Some threads I found suggested that this was a problem with older Ender 3s that was fixed in later revisions and that TL smoothers won't help, but it looks to me like it's not fixed.\n\nUpdate: With settings adjusted for 0 jerk and 50 mm/s² acceleration in the outer walls, I got a somewhat improved result:\n\n\n\nAll steps are clearly visible, but at the reduced and more varying speed, artifacts of the extruder motor accuracy (or maybe just bowden latency) are much worse, and at the steps the \"\"overshoot and bounce back\"\" effect is still happening. Is this consistent with a situation where the TL smoothers I asked about could benefit?\n\nUpdate 2: I've further tested with leaving acceleration at default (500 mm/s²) and just disabling \"\"jerk\"\", i.e. \"\"instantaneous\"\" change in speed. The results are at least as good as the above with slow acceleration. What strikes me most is that the \"\"overshoot then bounce back\"\" happens outward from the model on both edges, rather than inward on the righthand side where the (CCW moving) nozzle is turning inward. Could this indicate that there's no microstepping accuracy problem at all, and that the artifact is purely from excess extrusion as the corner is turned?\n\nUpdated pic (new one below):\n\n\n\",Moana Springfeild,\"Instead of getting tlsmoothers just upgrade your drivers, 2209s are good, Most TMC Drivers account for flyback\n\",0.0,0.0\n10369,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,2.8153892694839717,3.1516766269614735,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.082726318457765,Why does jerk have units of mm/s rather than mm/s³?,\"In 3D printing firmware and slicers, jerk settings are expressed in units if mm/s. This is contrary the physical definition of jerk, which is in units of mm/s³, being the second derivative of speed with respect to time (or the third derivative of position). What is the reason for this discrepancy and how does one interpret jerk in this contect?\n\",R..,\"The jerk setting in 3D printing gcode and firmware represents a concept similar to, but distinct from, the physical definition of jerk. Rather, it's a [limit on] instantaneous change of speed.\n\nMathematically, one way to make sense of this is to think that, rather than being the second derivative of speed with respect to time, this \"\"jerk\"\" is the entire remainder of the first-order expansion of speed with respect to time - it corresponds to the second-order term and all higher order terms. Such terms cannot be combined just as coefficients, since they all have different units corresponding to different powers of time; rather, they can be combined only with their corresponding powers of time, in which case the resulting unit is mm/s.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n10369,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,2.8153892694839717,3.1516766269614735,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.082726318457765,Why does jerk have units of mm/s rather than mm/s³?,\"In 3D printing firmware and slicers, jerk settings are expressed in units if mm/s. This is contrary the physical definition of jerk, which is in units of mm/s³, being the second derivative of speed with respect to time (or the third derivative of position). What is the reason for this discrepancy and how does one interpret jerk in this contect?\n\",Jim,\"The units for jerk should be meters per second cubed or m/s3. \n\nMeters are the basic unit for distance. The first derivative is speed, or velocity, m/s. The second derivative is acceleration, m/s2. The third derivative is jerk, m/s3.\n\nIt is rate of change in acceleration. \n\nWhile seldom used, I've only heard it once concerning the Hubble Space telescope, there is a fourth derivative call jounce, m/s4. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10407,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,2.528907649931287,4.497924819069691,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.320478682445624,2.6553159206313057,Auto physical bed leveling?,\"I've never used a printer with auto bed leveling, but my understanding is that most or all of them don't actually level anything, but rather compensate for the unlevel bed in firmware by transforming the coordinates. It seems to me this would necessarily introduce aliasing artifacts in all your prints by making it so that line widths are no longer a whole number of microsteps - I immediately observed such an effect on top/bottom skin when I tried to use steps-per-mm tweaking in firmware to compensate for a dimensional error rather than fixing the mechanical source of the error, and concluded that it was a dead-end approach.\n\nIf the auto-leveling firmware only makes adjustments with the Z motor as it moves, rather than transforming all three coordinates, it seems like that would be mostly or entirely mitigated, but with slight errors in dimensional accuracy dependent on how tilted the bed actually is.\n\nDo any of the printers with (or add-on kits for) auto bed leveling actually level the bed mechanically, with servos attached to the adjustment knobs? Why isn't an approach like that more common?\n\",cmm,\"A delta machine does not natively have cartesian planes in its coordinate space. \"\"The bed\"\" is a mathematical abstraction that must match the physical bed plane. Small mechanical errors or offsets distort the expected planar abstraction to introduce wave, cup, and bowl artifacts. \"\"Leveling the bed\"\" for a delta consists of calibrating out those distortions.\n\nA delta machine is constantly adding small positional quantification artifacts to the print. This could be beneficial, as there is a small constant noise introduced into the position of the print, rather than jumps which are a simple function of position.\n\nA delta machine could adjust the z-axis to be perpendicular to the observed bed with no additional print artifacts.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10407,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,2.528907649931287,4.497924819069691,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.320478682445624,2.6553159206313057,Auto physical bed leveling?,\"I've never used a printer with auto bed leveling, but my understanding is that most or all of them don't actually level anything, but rather compensate for the unlevel bed in firmware by transforming the coordinates. It seems to me this would necessarily introduce aliasing artifacts in all your prints by making it so that line widths are no longer a whole number of microsteps - I immediately observed such an effect on top/bottom skin when I tried to use steps-per-mm tweaking in firmware to compensate for a dimensional error rather than fixing the mechanical source of the error, and concluded that it was a dead-end approach.\n\nIf the auto-leveling firmware only makes adjustments with the Z motor as it moves, rather than transforming all three coordinates, it seems like that would be mostly or entirely mitigated, but with slight errors in dimensional accuracy dependent on how tilted the bed actually is.\n\nDo any of the printers with (or add-on kits for) auto bed leveling actually level the bed mechanically, with servos attached to the adjustment knobs? Why isn't an approach like that more common?\n\",Perplexed Dipole,\"The rail core II does this by having a 3 separate stepper motor + lead screws attached to the bed. Along with a z probe this allows the bed to leveled automatically. Although this will not make the bed any flatter meaning it will only align the bed in the correct XY plane with respect to the gantry.\n\nhttps://www.kraegar.com/railcoreii\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10417,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,1.726248027126092,3.486049983626924,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Is having 4 bed leveling adjustment points rather than 3 problematic?,\"My Ender 3, and I think lots of printers, have 4 bed leveling adjusstments, one at each corner. It seems to me that having 4 points produces an over-determined system, making it confusing to get the leveling right - adjusting one of the four may have little or no effect, but then cause a later adjustment elsewhere to have effects that violate a least-surprise principle.\n\nWould it be better to have only three points? Or is the fourth necessary/useful with non-completely-rigid bed structures to add rigidity?\n\",0scar,\"Similar reasoning as for question \"\"3 vs 4 bearings for y axis travel\"\"\"\" holds. If you introduce a fourth point, it is more difficult to make a flat plane.\n\nProvided that your bed is stiff, e.g. a flat piece of glass, or a thick metal plate is used, you do not need more than 3 screws. Both my custom built printers use pieces of glass on aluminium heated beds that use three screws for levelling.\n\nIf your bed is thin (e.g. thin heated bed with tape, so no glass) and flexible or warped, an extra screw might be handy to deform the bed to a more flat plane.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10475,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,3.0576060275493275,2.4894835185571664,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Do Cura's self-crossing infill patterns account for excess material from self-crossing?,\"As far as I can tell, Cura's infill patterns which are self-crossing, such as triangles, don't do anything special to account for extruding material over the crossing points multiple times. In theory this should produce either a blob around the crossing point, or excess pressure in the extruder due to blockage from the alread-deposited material that will result in over-extrusion after the point is crossed until the excess pressure is dissipated.\n\nIs Cura doing anything to account for this? It doesn't seem to do travel moves across the intersection, but maybe it's adjusting the overall flow to compensate for the crossings \"\"on average\"\".\n\nIf not, it seems like crossing points near the walls would be a source of dimensional accuracy problems, which I've seen in tightly confined areas and which I'm looking for a root cause for.\n\",Dan Hulme,\"With most filaments you don't need to do anything special to account for overfill caused by these crossing points. When the nozzle extrudes the second direction, it pushes the lines laid by the first direction out of the way. The same happens when the third direction crosses the first two. There's a blob, but it's a blob within the plane of the layer, so it shouldn't stick up out of the layer and upset subsequent layers. There are two complications which can occur though:\n\n\nWhen filling each direction, it's usual to keep extruding when moving from one line to the next (not a travel move), which results in getting an extra half perimeter around your infill. This is fine for a single raster pattern, and for box infill, but with triangle, hexagram, or similar, you'd get three half-perimeters (one for each direction). The slicer needs to offset the third direction so that those extra perimeters don't overlap. I don't know how Cura handles this; it's possible that's the source of the dimensional problems you're seeing.\nWith abrasive filaments, or those that don't stretch (such as carbon fibre or metal fill filament), the \"\"pushing the existing lines out of the way\"\" doesn't really work. You just end up wearing down the outside of the nozzle and getting the kind of blobs you're afraid of, sticking up into the next layer. It's just best to avoid infill with crossings (box, triangle, hexagram, etc.) on such filaments.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10502,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,2.1782824847157594,2.3277042668439822,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Standby hotend and bed heating with inactivity timer after print?,\"Is there any G-code command to turn off hotend/bed heating after a specified timeout? I'd like to edit my end G-code to leave them heated to a standby temperature, rather than immediately letting them cool down, to eliminate the delay of re-heating between prints, but obviously it's not a good thing to leave them heated indefinitely.\n\",0scar,\"Pausing\n\nYou could set temperatures for hotend and bed (respectively M104 and M140 and after that introduce a pause/dwell time with G4. After the pause, you could lower temperatures and proceed the shutdown of the printer, as such the setting of the idle temperatures and dwell time need to be done in the beginning of your end G-code in your slicer.\n\nNot powering down\n\nAlternatively, you could just not power down the hotend and bed. A typical end G-code consists of de-powering the fans, steppers, temperatures and positioning the head in a parking position, e.g.:\n\n\n M106 S0 ; Turn fan off\n M104 S0 ; Turn extruder off\n M140 S0 ; Turn off bed\n// G91 ; Change to relative positioning\n// G1 Z30 E-2 F3000 ; Raise Z 30mm (lowers the bed) NEVER DO THIS, IT WILL DESTROY YOUR PRINTER IF YOU PRINT LARGER THAN MAX-Z MINUS 30 MM\n// G90 ; Switch back to absolute mode\n G1 X0 Y0 ; Move X/Y to origin\n M84 ; Disable steppers\n\n\nYou could easily change the temperatures to standby values:\n\n\n M106 S0 ; Turn fan off\n M104 S160 ; Turn extruder to standby\n M140 S40 ; Turn bed to standby\n// G91 ; Change to relative positioning\n// G1 Z30 E-2 F3000 ; Raise Z 30mm (lowers the bed) NEVER DO THIS, IT WILL DESTROY YOUR PRINTER IF YOU PRINT LARGER THAN MAX-Z MINUS 30 MM\n// G90 ; Switch back to absolute mode\n G1 X0 Y0 ; Move X/Y to origin\n M84 ; Disable steppers\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10583,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,0.0,3.433715357735872,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"How do you solve PLA corner-curling short of printing really, REALLY slow?\",\"I've been trying a lot of different things to combat corners curling upward in the first few tens of layers after the bottom skin. To be clear, I'm not talking about corners of the first layer printed on the bed, but rather the points of the outline in layers above the base where direction of print motion changes discontinuously (discrete corner) or abruptly (turn with very tight curvature). Here's an image I found (not mine) that demonstrates:\n\n\n\nAnd a pic during print of the type of curling I'm talking about:\n\n\n\nAnd some previous worse prints:\n\n\n\nMy go-to worst test case for this now is a 20mm tall hollow dodecahedron with 0.8mm shell (hollow geometry, not just empty infill; 0% infill on a non-hollow model does even worse, shown above). For everything else I've tried, I've mostly been able to sovle the problem with combinations of\n\n\nImproved cooling fan duct\nLowered bed temperature or unheated bed (but this is a tradeoff; it seriously hurts first layer quality and increases risk of non-adhesion)\nDisabling Cura's overhang detection mode (non-uniform print speed causes a huge increase in the curling due to latency of extrusion rate response)\nIncreasing motion acceleration limits or decreasing speed limits (also mitigating the latency in extrusion rate response)\n\n\nbut I can't get all 5 edges of the worst-case dodecahedron completely warping-free without just heavily slowing down the print; during print it's obvious that the curling at the corners in each layer is the source of the warping. Increasing Cura's cool_min_layer_time to 10 seconds (default is 6, and I usually get by fine with 3-4.5 for most things) mostly but not entirely solved it, and going much slower than that seems likely to introduce other surface artifacts from extremely slow extrusion.\n\nAre there any additional tricks I'm missing for solving this? I'd like something that's easy to leave on all the time or at least to automate, as opposed to hacks like adding in a junk tower off to the side to waste time between layers.\n\nMy printer is an Ender 3 with stock gear except for improved fan duct. The problem was worse with the stock fan duct.\n\",Nach0z,\"Cura has an additional setting that you can make visible called \"\"Lift Head\"\". My recommendation is that you do the following:\n\n\nSet your minimum print speed to something actually reasonable like 30mm/s or higher. Printing too slowly negates the following two settings and is not beneficial to printing small features.\nSet your minimum layer time to something higher, like 15s or so. The slower you print, the higher this number needs to be. Using too small of a minimum print time prevents adequate layer cooling.\nEnable \"\"Lift Head\"\". This must be used to allow the small features on your print to properly cool. Without the \"\"Lift Head\"\" setting, your nozzle will remain parked on your print and provide both radiant and convective heat which prevents cooling and causes sagging of small features.\n\n\nThe combination of these settings will rapidly deposit the layer, then move the nozzle high and away from the print until the minimum layer time is reached, such that the radiant heat from the nozzle doesn't continue to heat the soft PLA while it's trying to cool. \n\nEnabling all three is how I got perfect tiny features on all of the printers here at my office - a fleabay i3 clone, an Anet A8, and a couple Monoprice printers of various levels. \n\nEdit:\n\nI forgot to mention, keep your bed temperature at a reasonable setting too. For PLA, normally people may recommend up to 70C, but realistically, for very small prints, you can keep your bed much colder without detrimental effects. For tiny items, my PLA prints used to use a bed temperature of about 30-40 C depending on the specific filament. Very tiny prints are unlikely to warp even with a cold bed.\n\nBasically, the colder the bed is, the less heat is getting conducted up through the print to the top layers that are molten, and the faster those layers cool. Keep the bed temp down and it'll benefit your layer cooling.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10690,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,1.0891412423578797,2.541486592782186,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Botched firmware upgrade - did I destroy the stepper drivers?,\"I attempted upgrading my Ender 3 firmware to Marlin 1.1.9, and due to inability to find the directions about the Sanguino variant pin layout file, stupidly built with the \"\"standard\"\" (Arduino) file. Various stuff didn't work, and I figured out my mistake and rebuilt, but the extruder motor does not respond even after flashing back to the original firmware.\n\nDid I destroy the stepper driver with incorrect pin mapping? (Aside: if so, why just the extruder and not the others?) Is this fixable or should I just order a new motherboard?\n\",R..,\"About 15 minutes after posting this, it started working again. Either the driver had badly overheated and recovered after cooling down, or was never messed up and the firmware was just refusing to operate it with the nozzle cold. For the latter possibility, the stock firmware never had that behavior before, but maybe it's possible that some saved configuration to ignore nozzle-cold got lost in the flashing?\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n10768,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,1.0891412423578797,3.6755458889710138,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Ender 3 has developed a tendancy to skip Y steps,\"Recently my Ender 3 has developed a problem of skipping Y steps (layer shift in the Y direction), and it seems to be getting progressively worse. I'd never experienced layer shift before a few weeks ago when I tried some extreme accelerations (up to 3000 mm/s²), which mostly worked fine, but I stopped after getting a couple layer shifts, and now have X acceleration at 2000 mm/s² and Y acceleration back at the default of 500 mm/s².\n\nWhen the layer shifts happen, I usually hear \"\"grinding\"\" sounds that seem like they're coming from friction of the nozzle moving over the already-deposited material. Bed leveling/height is correct though.\n\nMagnitude of the layer shifts varies between 1 mm and 3 mm. They're all in the positive direction (layers shifts towards the back of the bed).\n\nSpeeds are reasonable, 30 mm/s for outer walls, 60 mm/s for inner and infill, 120 mm/s for travel.\n\nIs there a likely mechanical or electrical cause for the onset of skipped steps/layer shift?\n\nIs it possible that the high X acceleration is what's allowing the very high travel speed to be achieved, and that such high travel speed is putting the nozzle on top of cold material that it drags on without giving it a chance to soften it first? Or is the printer underpowered such that there's insufficient current to provide the necessary Y motor torque while the X is under high acceleration? Lowering the X acceleration back to default (500 mm/s²) does seem to make it less likely or less severe, but it's still happening.\n\",R..,\"While I first experienced layer shifts a couple times before upgrading, only while using extreme acceleration settings (3000 mm/s² is fairly extreme for moving the bed), their regular occurrance, which is near-constant with some files, seems to have started after I upgraded the firmware to Marlin 1.1.9. Reverting to the manufacturer's firmware, with no mechanical changes to the printer whatsoever, has the same file printing now with no layer shifts. So I think it's safe to say that this is a firmware problem - either a bug in Marlin, or a problem with the Ender 3 configuration headers for it. The bug tracker suggests this kind of thing is an ongoing issue; here are two among a large number of related bug tracker threads:\n\n\nhttps://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/9768\nhttps://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/10446\n\n\nI'll try the latest 2.0.x, and/or turning features off one at a time in 1.1.9, and see if I can isolate the cause, then open a new question about bugs in Marlin causing layer shifts if needed.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n10772,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,1.0891412423578797,3.759329766816229,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Y-axis layer shifts with recent Marlin on Ender 3,\"Since upgrading from the manufacturer's firmare to recent Marlin (first 1.1.9, then 2.0.x git HEAD), I've been having significant model-dependent (didn't happen for first few things I tried to print; other prints reproduce it reliably) layer shifting on the Y axis. It's always in the positive Y direction, usually by 1-3 mm at a time.\n\n\n\nI first suspected mechanical problems (see: Ender 3 has developed a tendancy to skip Y steps), but reverting the firmware confirmed that it's a firmware problem.\n\nA number of bug tracker entries for Marlin indicate that there are significant ongoing layer shift problems:\n\n\nhttps://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/9768\nhttps://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/10446\nhttps://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12403\n\n\nBut most end up getting closed. Some people say reverting to 1.1.9 from 2.0.x helped; others say 1.1.9 is EOL and to use 2.0.x. Is there a solution? How do I get a working version of Marlin (new enough to have Linear Advance 1.5, which was my motivation for upgrading) on Ender 3?\n\",R..,\"Buried in a bug tracker entry for a seemingly unrelated issue, I found what seems to be the solution:\n\n\n @johanmga, I've discovered the velocity jumps here come from using \"\"classic jerk\"\" computations, and happen whether or not s-curve acceleration is enabled.\n \n Try uncommenting //#define JUNCTION_DEVIATION in Configuration_adv.h; that will disable classic jerk and use the junction deviation math instead.\n \n Also for reference, issue #12403 is actively tracking the layer shift issue (please comment there too if you have more information on problems/solutions), and #12540 is has more information on classic jerk vs. junction deviation.\n\n\nhttps://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12491#issuecomment-443464603\n\nIt seems that the \"\"classic jerk\"\" code no longer works and produces erroneous motion to the steppers under some conditions (dependent on G-code contents), whereas the Ender 3 default configuration file is still using it.\n\nWith the default JUNCTION_DEVIATION_MM of 0.02, things worked right away, but printing was so slow that I could plausibly attribute it working just to the slowness. But increasing it up to 0.1 via the menus got the speed closer to what I'm used to, and it's still printing with no layer shifts.\n\nI've posted my results in the tracker in hopes that they'll lead to discovery of the root cause: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12403#issuecomment-519305409\n\nAnother issue on the tracker seems to have more detail:\n\nhttps://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12540#issuecomment-442793326\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n10868,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,2.1782824847157594,2.887737754437414,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Finishing sunken text in 3D prints,\"On several occasions I've wanted lettering/numbering printed as part of a design, but with the ability to make it stand out more effectively in the printed object without having to do detailed manual finishing. Is there a good material which can catch in and fill sunken (depth 0.4 mm, width 0.6-1.0 mm) lines/strokes of alphanumeric characters without sticking to the surface (including fine layer ridges) of the print? My best result so far has been with crayon wax, but I wonder if there are more suitable materials. (Polymer clay, perhaps?)\n\nResults with crayons:\n\n\n\nDurability is nice (and essential for some applications), but for many uses I have in mind it's not such a big deal. For example another place I've wanted clear text is on test panels to check nut/bolt thread sizes, in which case the text is unlikely to receive harsh treatment but any heat-based curing processes might effect the dimensional accuracy negatively. So both durable and non-durable solutions are interesting to me.\n\",cmm,\"I think your instinct is good. The trick is finding the right modeling compound, with the right curing properties, that will stick to your polymer dice, and will be available in colors you like.\n\nAmazon has some epoxy-based clays that appear to be either terra-cotta or black. If these colors work, this may be the right choice. Most epoxies will cling well, and it seems to have minimal shrinkage when hardening. You could probably add some pigment and alter the color, but I doubt you could get a white, yellow, or any light color.\n\nThere are some air-drying clays, but the reviews show that these have higher shrinkage.\n\nThere are some bake-to-harden clays that harden between 250 and 300 degrees Farenheit. If you printed with ABS or a high temperature plastic, it might work. You would have to try it to know. 300 F is only 149 C, so maybe. PLA wouldn't stand a chance. If you can print polycarbonate, it might work better.\n\nThis material looks interesting: https://www.amazon.com/Polymer-Modelling-Modeling-Tutorials-Accessories/dp/B0716D1VDM?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_6 There are lots of colors, and it can be cured in a 275 Farenheit oven, with a hot-air gun, or by boiling in water.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10868,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,2.1782824847157594,2.887737754437414,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Finishing sunken text in 3D prints,\"On several occasions I've wanted lettering/numbering printed as part of a design, but with the ability to make it stand out more effectively in the printed object without having to do detailed manual finishing. Is there a good material which can catch in and fill sunken (depth 0.4 mm, width 0.6-1.0 mm) lines/strokes of alphanumeric characters without sticking to the surface (including fine layer ridges) of the print? My best result so far has been with crayon wax, but I wonder if there are more suitable materials. (Polymer clay, perhaps?)\n\nResults with crayons:\n\n\n\nDurability is nice (and essential for some applications), but for many uses I have in mind it's not such a big deal. For example another place I've wanted clear text is on test panels to check nut/bolt thread sizes, in which case the text is unlikely to receive harsh treatment but any heat-based curing processes might effect the dimensional accuracy negatively. So both durable and non-durable solutions are interesting to me.\n\",R..,\"As suggested by Davo in a comment, nail polish works very well for this.\n\n\n I've seem people use fingernail polish before, wiping the excess off while it's wet.\n\n\nWhat works even better than wiping the excess off while it's wet is letting it fill up the pits and fully dry, then using acetone or other solvents to remove it from the non-sunken surface around the text. Acetone doesn't attack PLA, but I've found it does alter some PLA dyes, so alternate solvents might be preferable if that's a problem.\n\nHere's the result of my first test:\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n11047,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,2.528907649931287,3.5267987966466157,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Herringbone timing belt?,\"I realized while playing around with 3D printed gears that it would be easy to make a 3D printed herringbone-style timing belt and matching gears/pulleys. Would such a design have any advantages over typical GT2 timing belts used in 3D printers? I figure the belt contact around the gear/pulley is sufficient that it doesn't make a big difference to smooth transfer of force like it does with meshing gears, but it would prevent lateral movement of the belt. Are there other advantages (or disadvantages)? I would assume it's harder to produce the belt with conventional manufacturing techniques, but of course it's easy to produce with a 3D printer and TPU or other flexible material.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"At a nearly microscopic level, the herringbone belt/gear combination will reduce the whoosh effect of a square profile cogged belt forcing itself into a matching profile pulley. Consider a well-sealed drawer or similar shape. Push it into the cabinet at maximum speed and force and the air is going to have a difficult time exiting.\n\nBy the design of the herringbone belt, the teeth on the belt are eased into the groove in what amounts to a diagonal motion. This permits the air to be exhausted in a less-abrupt manner.\n\nThis is part of the concept of Goodyear Eagle belt systems.\n\nPart of the sales pitch is quiet, another part is precision, which I expect falls into the self-centering aspect of the design. Yet another described characteristic is reduced vibration, certainly valuable in the 3D printer world.\n\nI've had no luck getting email communications from the manufacturers regarding this type of drive system, but found that commercially available belts and pulleys do not go below a rather large diameter, making that aspect unsuitable for 3D printing. The belts are also high-load capable, very stiff and also quite wide.\n\nYou would not want to use TPU or other flexible filament (perhaps obc?)* unless you could be assured of minimal stretch. Any stretching of the belt would inject too many problems into the printer to compensate in practical terms.\n\n\n\n*From MatterHackers web site: \n\n\n OBC (Olefin Block Copolymer) 3D printing filament from Dow Chemical is\n a breakthrough material that is both flexible when printed thin and\n rigid when printed.\n\n\nAs an anecdote, I desired to replace the x-axis belt on my laser cutter with a Silent Sync system. It is believed on at least one laser-cutter forum that the GT style belts cause oscillation which appears when engraving. I had hoped to discover that the Silent Sync belts and pulleys would solve this problem, but the lack of communications with the manufacturer threw a wrench in the works. It's unlikely that I can 3D print a 2.5 meter long segment of belt, as I don't own a White Knight printer, but it's interesting to think that OBC filament might do the job well enough. Too much experimentation, however.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n11051,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R..,1.0891412423578797,2.9816351676497708,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Nail polish remover that won't dissolve ABS?,\"In Finishing sunken text in 3D prints, I found that nail polish works great for filling sunken lettering in 3D-printed parts, but the procedure for using it requires removing the excess from the non-sunken surface using nail polish remover. For PLA, acetone works fine, but with ABS the acetone will obviously dissolve the ABS too (and from my experience trying to get polish off plastic toys made of ABS, it mixes the polish with the ABS really nastily in the process).\n\nIs there an alternate nail polish remover that's suitable for use on ABS? Ethyl acetate based ones, maybe?\n\",Trish,\"First of all, Nail Polish comes in 2 types: Acetone based, and acetone-free. The latter is based on Ethyl Acetate filled up with alcohol and water. Sadly, Ethyl Acetate also dissolves ABS, so it is not an option. However, the acetone-free nail polish remover can be used to smooth PLA to some degree. Anyhow, we look for something that is putting Nail polish into solution but not ABS, so it can neither be among the able ketones (like acetone), nor an acetate ester, nor be aniline.\n\nNext up, Turpentine. Turpentine is a crazy mix of chemicals that we know to be able to turn most glues to goop and remove nail polish too. Sadly, Turpentine too can dissolve ABS, and it has been used in this fashion to create ABS Slurry/Cement as a bonding agent.\n\nBut what do we actually have in nail polish that needs to be put in solution? Well, to a good part, most nail polishes are a Nitrocellulose lacquer. To keep it in solution, Ethyl Acetate (already ruled out) and Butyl Acetate are used. Sadly, that is an acetate ester, so nope, no gains here.\n\nSo, we are left with one way: Mechanical removal. Nail polish is known to bond quite ok, but conventional nail polish lacquer (not the gel stuff) also is known to chip, and we can use that. Letting the lacquer harden and then using a sharp knife o remove most of the surplus, then polishing it up to very fine 1000 grit sandpaper is a possible way to go without needing to open the chemical toolbox. For the last postprocessing step, very short exposure to acetone vapor should restore the surface and put it to shine, including the lacquer.\n\nOther fillers?\n\nAn alternative might be other filler materials. For a white filling, white Valejo putty might work, which is an acrylic bound marble dust filler, which can be wiped away with a wet cloth. It doesn't shrink, so gives flat surfaces. It could be colored with other acrylic paints, but the base color is marble-white.\n\nTamiya Basic Putty is based on Ethylbenzene and often used with ABS models as a gap filler. It is available in several colors. As a downside, it does shrink a little during bonding. Ethylbenzene is not a solvent but incidentally, the same stuff that is used for making ABS so should be safe for the model.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n8067,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,EVARATE,2.528907649931287,2.9816351676497708,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Lower Layers are messy,\"This picture pretty much shows the problem:\n\n\nI print on a CR-10 and this thing is pretty much just a problem factory. Anyways, the latest problem that was never there before is that for some reason the first 2-4mm of the print are totally messed up like in the picture. That isnt that much of a problem for bigger parts (as in the right one) but smaller things such as the pi-coin (left) are absolutely useless now.\n\nThings ive already checked that haven't fixed the problem:\n\n\nDifferent PLA filament types (geetech, Janbex)\nDifferent nozzles (0.3mm, 0.4mm)\nVariations of smaller line withs (up to .05mm smaller)\nNozzle temperatures between 180°C and 215°C\nBed temperatures between room temp. and 80°C\nFlowrates 85% of actual flowrate up to 105%\nPrinting speeds of 30mm/s to 80mm/s\nDifferent location on the buildplate in case that parts of the rail are worn out\nCooling fan active all the time, off all the time, off for the first layers\nChecked bed leveling\nChecked extrusion\n-Variations of all of these things\n\n\nIt is noticable that the first few lines are layed down perfectly but when filling out the circles (in the case of these models) the layer becomes very rough. After that every new layer just suffers from the quality of the previous one. There is also a scratching sound when the nozzle moves over the object. I slice with Cura (latest version) and Z-hop is active.\n\nI also checked the Z-rod and it at least looks fine to me.\n\nI am really running out of ideas. I even checked every screw on the printer (and found out that the x-Rail wasn't perfectly straight but that didnt fix it either).\n\nThis problem occured after I replaced the entire print head with a new one since the old one kept clogging.\n\",0scar,\"Referring to the scratching, this could indicate that the nozzle is a little too close to the bed. This can be caused by a non-uniform bed, but that is unlikely in your case as you have tried printing on different areas of the build plate, this implies that the bed is correctly levelled. Still, the nozzle may be too close while having a perfect level bed (easily checked by using a metal ruler on its side over the bed). You could print an adjustable Z endstop trigger mechanism, there can be a few found on Thingiverse, e.g. this one or this one, it should enable you to fine-tune the nozzle to bed distance by turning the adjustment screw; the following image shows an example:\n\n\n\nNote that a recent question has a solution that describes that the rollers had too much play on the profile.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8677,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,EVARATE,2.1782824847157594,2.574082176164519,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,CR-10 Layers not printing after certain amount of filament printed,\"I am printing on a CR-10 for the first time with white filament1. The problem is it seems that after a certain amount of filament printed one or two layers don't stick to the print which causes a huge gap in the end.\n\nI think the pictures speak for themselves:\n\n\n\n\n\nHere is what I already tried:\n\n\nDifferent print speeds (60 mm/s and 45 mm/s)\nDifferent nozzles (both 0.4 mm)\nPrint-temperatures of 200 °C and 205 °C\nResliced models in case of faulty .gcode files\nSupport densities of 10 % to 20 %\nDifferent models\n\n\nI tried this with two different models, two print attempts each. The gap occurs earlier in the larger model and at almost the exact same layer on both attempts, same for the smaller model.\n\nThe most frustrating thing about this is that it happens a few hours into the print so I can't just sit next to it.\n\nIt seems that at a certain layer the filament doesn't stick to the print anymore which causes those straight parts.\n\nI ruled out a faulty z-Rod since the gap occurs at different heights.\n\nI am printing White PLA from Janbex with 60 °C bed temperature. I slice with Cura 4.0 (the linux version).\n\n\n\n1 I've been printing for over a year now, it's the first time I use white filament. I don't think that it is entangled filament since the spools from Janbex are always perfectly wound. It did occasionally happen with other filament too though but not this often. I have a theory that it might have something to do with the geometry of the model since there were a few very close hard edges at that height. Maybe the filament didn't have enough time to cool down on those spots. I'm trying to print with lower layer height (0.15 now, 0.2 earlier), maybe that will make a difference...\n\",Roberto Lo Giacco,\"If the problem occurs at same height I would focus on the Z axis, in particular the gantry and its rollers.\nTry to remove the Z axis screw and feel if the you can slide the gantry up and down with ease, in particular if it gets harder to slide at roughly the height where the problem occurs. You can use the eccentric nuts to adjust the rollers preload and make it slide smooth.\nNext on my checklist would be the screw: verify there is no issue on the screw at that height, the Ender 3 is renown for having a Z rod issue due to misalignment between the motor and the nut on the gantry.\nWhile writing another idea came to my mind, but I'm sure already checked that: the filament is not clashing or being clamped somewhere when it reaches that height, right? A filament guide would generally exclude that...\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10248,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,EVARATE,2.1782824847157594,4.3687307627482825,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,CR-10 randomly pauses for a few seconds,\"I thought I have already had and fixed every problem one could possibly have with a 3D printer. Guess I was wrong.\n\nI haven't used my Creality CR-10 for a few weeks, everything was working the last time I tried. Today I wanted to print something minor and the printer just randomly paused a few times in the middle of the print.\n\nTo be exact, it seems that after a few G-code commands have been executed the printer just freezes for like 10 seconds and then continues like nothing happened. This occurred a few times and every time the nozzle is melting the surrounding plastic and extruding a little which ruins the print.\n\nI have tried:\n\n\nPrint from SD Card\nPrint from Laptop via USB connection to Ultimaker Cura\nPrint different models at different settings\n\n\nMy theory is that either there is a core problem with how Ultimaker Cura exports the G-code files or something is wrong with the printer software. I thought that maybe re-installing the firmware might fix it but I heard that that is a risky process. What do I do?\n\",trialNerror,\"I experienced the same with 4.1. Everything went back to normal after going back to 4.0 despite that all settings were identical as far as I could see. I compared the two g-code files using a simple file comparison tool. They were very different, hardly anything was the same. I still need to figure out what they mean. The model and thus the g-code files are far to large to go through. So, I will have to use a simple and small model to start unraveling what those differences mean.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10248,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,EVARATE,2.1782824847157594,4.3687307627482825,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,CR-10 randomly pauses for a few seconds,\"I thought I have already had and fixed every problem one could possibly have with a 3D printer. Guess I was wrong.\n\nI haven't used my Creality CR-10 for a few weeks, everything was working the last time I tried. Today I wanted to print something minor and the printer just randomly paused a few times in the middle of the print.\n\nTo be exact, it seems that after a few G-code commands have been executed the printer just freezes for like 10 seconds and then continues like nothing happened. This occurred a few times and every time the nozzle is melting the surrounding plastic and extruding a little which ruins the print.\n\nI have tried:\n\n\nPrint from SD Card\nPrint from Laptop via USB connection to Ultimaker Cura\nPrint different models at different settings\n\n\nMy theory is that either there is a core problem with how Ultimaker Cura exports the G-code files or something is wrong with the printer software. I thought that maybe re-installing the firmware might fix it but I heard that that is a risky process. What do I do?\n\",Andrew Morton,\"Edit: The z-hop problem has been fixed in Cura 4.2.\n\n\n\nThis is a known issue with Cura 4.1 when z-hop is enabled.\n\nIf you touch the z-axis motor frame while it is apparently stationary, you may feel it is actually moving.\n\nThe solution is to set a value (I used something like 250 in conjunction with an Ender 3) for the \"\"Maximum Z Speed\"\".\n\nFirst you need to get the setting to be visible, so go to the \"\"Settings\"\" menu and choose \"\"Configure setting visibility...\"\":\n\n\n\nThen in the \"\"Print settings\"\" panel:\n\n\n\nThe full story is available on GitHub at [4.1 - current master branch] Z feed rates #5753.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n8071,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Philip KP,2.1782824847157594,2.6908545064521765,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Printrbot Simple + OctoPrint on PC not working,\"I am running the newest version of OctoPrint server on my Windows 10 PC, and accessing it with Mozilla Firefox on the same PC.\n\nI also installed Cura 15.04 and selected the Printrbot Simple profile, and pointed to the Cura install path in the OctoPrint client so that it can use it for slicing.\n\nI plugged in my printer and it was recognized by OctoPrint. The nozzle temperature is correctly shown, and I can turn the fans on/off in the control tab.\n\nHowever, I cannot do anything else in the control tab, including moving the axes. I have not imported any sort of printer profile into OctoPrint, since I cannot figure out how to or where to find my printer's information. \n\nThere has not been any kind of calibration process I can find either.\nCan anybody help me find a print profile/calibrate my printer, and just get it working so I can move the axes/print something out?\n\",0scar,\"Before any axis can move the printer must be homed correctly (G28 command, or an equivalent home button, there are 2: an X/Y and a Z button). A correct printer profile must also be defined; this profile contains some bed geometry and speed data, these are some basic values that are easy to add through the wrench button and \"\"printer profiles\"\" menu item.\n\nNote that Cura 15.04 is very old, more recent version with far more options and better stability can be downloaded, but won't work integrated in OctoPrint, instead you download the most recent version of Ultimaker Cura directly from Ultimaker.com slice your product and store the G-code file to later import this into OctoPrint.\n\nPlease take care in choosing an optimal power plan in Windows 10, if your computer goes to sleep during a print (or updates or crashes) your print is lost; using a Raspberry Pi is far more safe.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n8081,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Charlotte Notaras,1.0891412423578797,3.789629108199975,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Converting .nii file to .stl file,\"I'm trying to convert a .nii file to a .stl file using this tutorial.\n\nSince my computer runs Windows, I'm running FreeSurfer (Linux) on VirtualBox. I was unable to allow Guest Additions, so I downloaded my .nii file by email. I ran this command to extract the data from the file using FreeSurfer: recon-all -s mybrain -all -i /home/fsuser/Desktop/brainscan.nii\n\nUnfortunately, it did not work, and I received this error message:\n\n\n\"\"WARNING: tcsh v6.17.06 has an exit code bug! Please update tcsh!\n\nERROR: Flag -i/home/fsuser/Desktop/anat_stripped.nii unrecognized. -s mybrain -all -i/home/fsuser/Desktop/anat_stripped.nii Linux xubuntu-VirtualBox 3.2.0-23-generic #36-Ubuntu SMP Tue Apr 10 20:41:14 UTC 2012 i686 i686 i386 GNU/Linux\n\nrecon-all -s mybrain exited with ERRORS at Fri Jan 25 20:08:01 EST 2019\n\nFor more details, see the log file To report a problem, see http://surfer.nmr.mgh.harvard.edu/fswiki/BugReporting\"\"\n\n\nI think the problem is that I don't have an application in VirtualBox that can open a .nii file. I tried to download Mango, but when I unzipped the file, there was no executable. What should I do so my .nii file can be converted to a .stl file?\n\",Lux Claridge,\"Looks like you didn't include a space between the -i flag and the file, though you did include the space in this question. Try running the command but include spaces between your flags and file directories:\n\nrecon-all -s mybrain -all -i /home/fsuser/Desktop/brainscan.nii\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8088,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user3352632,0.0,3.5501321208593204,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Which is the right filiament type to print breakable children's toy parts such as small gears,\"Probably the question sounds a little strange; however, I am looking for a filament which is breakable and not so steady and reliable as PLA. I want to print parts similar to the following gears for instance (They are from Lego, a children's toy). \n\nThey should break after some time or in any way become unusable after an accidental period (1 minute to several days) of use. Yes, you read right: I want to print parts that are frangible and probably will break! I plan to use Ultimaker 3 as 3D printer. So I'm looking for a suitable filament. Maybe I can merge two types of filament?\n\nCould Ultimaker's TPU filament (https://ultimaker.com/en/products/materials/tpu-95a) be useful for my purpose? Or can anybody recommend me another filament that can be useful for my intended use? The primary purpose is that the printed part is not stable enough to serve its original purpose for longer than a foreseeable time (1 minute to several days). I appreciate your advice and ideas.\n\n\n\nNote: I don't want to sell them; I want to use them for my private project. So please no legal issues. They are not helpful for my question. I don't ask for legal advice.\n\",Trish,\"deliberate/planned obsolescence is the term you look for\n\nIf you design parts that break after some time, you plan their obsolescence. That you do by a deliberate choice of material and working conditions. Designing a part that will break after a certain time can be done by choosing the correct stresses that will make your chosen material break. \n\nIn a gear that is meant to break at certain stress, one can weaken the teeth or the sprues, so that normal operation stresses will very likely break the safety margin and destroy the gear.\n\nis it a material choice?\n\nAny material is suitable to make a planned break, as long as the design is suitable. Performing a stress analysis of your part will tell you where to weaken it to enforce it will break - if the part was solid. As printed parts in FDM aren't solid, take the result with salt - it will tell where but not when it fails. Do the experiment for actual numbers.\n\nis it a print setting thing?\n\nBesides deliberately under-engineering some part of the gear, a usually perfectly fine gear would lose a lot of strength by deliberately reducing how massive it is: the stability of a print is affected by the form and amount of the infill just as much as the number of shells. Some random setting examples:\n\n\n1-shelled, 1-bottom/top-layer, 5% infill piece is very likely so fragile you might not get it off the build plate \nthese parameters at 2-5-10% results in a somewhat durable piece.\n2-5-20% is more than twice as strong as 2-5-10%.\n\n\nTo find the exact breaking point of a setup, one might need to toy with the parameters and experiment. It might be interesting to use no top- or bottom-layers and thus turn to create all the spokes of the gear in the shape of infill and outer shell. Also, some infills are better at withstanding forces than others - for example, Gyroid or Hex infill is rather stable on pressure while spaghetti is quite weak.\n\nOther parameters also can change the infill stability: speeding up the print of the infill compared to the shell and using a thinner line considerably weakens the infill, thus reducing the needed load to break it. This is a somewhat easy parameter to tweak if you want to go for breaking the spokes (see below).\n\nplanned obsolescence and how to under-engineer safely\n\nSometimes, planned destruction is good for safety: a safety valve is supposed to break under overpressure to release the pressure in a safe way.\n\nBut planned obsolescence can also be a safety risk: If a toy breaks under normal use, it is a safety hazard for the broken off parts can be swallowed by children. Another factor to look at is where broken off parts end up in the machinery - they might jam other pieces that are not meant to self-destruct and destroy them.\n\n\nDesign the pieces to break in a safe way - the larger the chunks, the better you prevent them from going into places they should not.\nDesign the teeth to deform or melt rather than shearing off\nDesign the axles to sheer free by losing their keying\nDesign the spokes of the gears to break, separating gear rim from axle & hub, either of which goes nowhere due to the other gears and the mounting\nEncase the self-destruct gears in some sort of gearbox to prevent the pieces from going flying\n\n\nIndustrial machinery design usually goes the melting way: Let's take a hand mixer. It contains a gearset that has one drive gear connected to a second gear, so that both mixers spin opposite. Under normal use, these spin pretty fast, creating heat from the friction. In a good design, these two gears are made from metal or a high heat tolerant polymer. But if one plans for having them break, these gears are made from a material that will heat under the friction in such a way, that after a set time (around 5 minutes), the teeth will be sufficiently weakened to deform and grind away, destroying them in the process.\n\nPreferred Material\n\nI would actually deliberately under-design the gears for the expected loads and then go for a solid material printed in SLA or SLS from either a resin (which will break with pieces and bits going flying, so a gearbox is mandatory!) or a polyamide (nylon). These parts would match the stress analysis fully.\n\nIf FDM is the only option, the material choice depends on the failure mode you opted for:\n\n\nIn case you opt for destruction from heat on the teeth or axle, a low melting material like PLA is perfectly fine, but make sure to engineer the chance of breaking teeth low. ABS can perform a little better but needs more heat (and thus more RPM) to self destruct.\nIn case of designing for a breaking failure of spokes or keying, PLA is an excellent choice, as it is sufficiently brittle.\nPETG is a good compromise between ABS deformability and PLA's printing ease.\n\n\n\n\nFootnotes\n\nGear DesignWhen designing your gears, keep in mind that gears are rather complicated. I actually advise to take a look on the gross oversimplification of This Old Tony because it allows you to see where you can make teeth break very easily by design!\n\nplanned obsolescence and consumer rightsWhile planned obsolescence can be an important safety factor, planning obsolescence in consumer products for sale to break them after a calculated time is unethical and can be a consumer rights violation. Remember, that legally demanded warranty and a right to repair exist in a lot of countries.\n\nLEGO is Copyrighted, Patented and TrademarkedCopying Lego designs would be a Trademark Violation, Patent infringement and a copyright violation by using their designs. They protect them.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8088,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user3352632,0.0,3.5501321208593204,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Which is the right filiament type to print breakable children's toy parts such as small gears,\"Probably the question sounds a little strange; however, I am looking for a filament which is breakable and not so steady and reliable as PLA. I want to print parts similar to the following gears for instance (They are from Lego, a children's toy). \n\nThey should break after some time or in any way become unusable after an accidental period (1 minute to several days) of use. Yes, you read right: I want to print parts that are frangible and probably will break! I plan to use Ultimaker 3 as 3D printer. So I'm looking for a suitable filament. Maybe I can merge two types of filament?\n\nCould Ultimaker's TPU filament (https://ultimaker.com/en/products/materials/tpu-95a) be useful for my purpose? Or can anybody recommend me another filament that can be useful for my intended use? The primary purpose is that the printed part is not stable enough to serve its original purpose for longer than a foreseeable time (1 minute to several days). I appreciate your advice and ideas.\n\n\n\nNote: I don't want to sell them; I want to use them for my private project. So please no legal issues. They are not helpful for my question. I don't ask for legal advice.\n\",Anthony Herrera,\"I won't even ask why you need this and I assume you've done your homework about the issues. 3D printed gears are notorious for failing even when designed well, so the idea in general should be pretty doable.\n\nTPU would be a terrible choice for a number of reasons. It's flexible which would make it a bad gear to begin with, but it is also very very tough. So it may last quite a long time, but perform very poorly. You specifically mention not using PLA, but I doubt you'll find a material that suites what you are looking for, more likely the print settings should be changed. \n\nDesign Ideas\n\nMy personal recommendation would be to use a good material such as PETG, ABS or PLA and deliberately under-design it. This way when it is overloaded, the part will fail. Be sure to consider how you want the part to fail, this will decide which material you should. As for how to under-design it: This would take a bit of testing. 3D printers create an enormous range of material properties due to infill, layer height, etc. For a starting point, change the infill level down until you get the desired results. \n\nThose parts look pretty thin to begin with, if the infill is not an option, try to reduce your wall thickness and thickness of top and bottom layers. One pass thick walls with no infill will be awfully weak and flexible. That flex should be enough to get you what you need. Eventually you can get it down to just a shell of a part with 0.2 or 0.1 mm thickness all around. \n\nMaterial Choice\n\nPLA will shatter, possibly resulting in further failure if caught in other gears. The small parts may cause an issue though when it fails. \n\nABS will deform and probably not shatter, but it is difficult to print with. I would not recommend this. \n\nPETG is on of my favorite materials - it is relatively easy to print with, very strong and bends instead of shattering on failure. This may be a good material to use.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8091,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,David Souza,2.528907649931287,3.6328610140092743,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,\"LCD full graphic smart controller, no character display and screen blinking\",\"After uncommenting the REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER, the display is blinking and no characters are shown on the screen, I have already switched the cables between EXP1 and EXP2, but it did not succeed.\n\",3D TECH BRASIL,\"this problem can be solved by turning the slots on the display, as in the image below. Some Chinese displays are inverted from factory.\n\n\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n8271,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,David Souza,2.1782824847157594,4.653123463505266,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,The BLTouch is hitting the bed on the double-probing,\"When double-probing, sometimes the BLTouch will hit the bed before the z-axis goes down:\n\n\nThe BLTouch deploys \nThe bed goes up\nThe sensor triggers\nThe BLTouch stows\nThe BLTouch deploys and crashes the bed before the z-axis goes down for the second probe\n\n\nIt happens only on the second probe of double-probing (slow speed) - the bed can't move out of the way fast enough.\nThis happens in 2/16 probe points.\n\nProbe Accuracy Test result:\n\n\nMean: 0.023075 mm\nMin: 0.018 mm\nMax: 0.027 mm\nRange: 0.008 mm\nStandard Deviation: 0.002584 mm\n\n\",aaron elsey,\"This sounds like the firmware setting for your BLtouch is not set up properly. Look at the line in Config H where it deploys the BLtouch. make sure nothing is commented out and that the 2nd deploy is shown. \n\",0.0,0.0\n11366,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,David Souza,2.1782824847157594,2.729972460763979,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,\"The first screen of Marlin 2.0 is showing some horizontal lines, appearing to be broken\",\"We are using the branch bugfix 2.0 and the first screen of Marlin is showing some horizontal lines, appearing to be broken.\n\n\n\nAfter 3 seconds, the boot screen appears and everything works normally.\n\n\n\nWe have tried to disable the custom bootscreen:\n\n//#define SHOW_CUSTOM_BOOTSCREEN\n\n\nWe have tried to disable the Marlin bootscreen:\n\n//#define SHOW_BOOTSCREEN\n\n\nWe have checked the power supply.\n\nWe have wrapped the \"\"flat cable\"\" in aluminum foil and ground everything correctly.\n\nWe have deleted the \"\"firmware.bin\"\" and it did not solve the problem.\n\nThe first time the firmware is loading the \"\"firmware.bin\"\", those horizontal lines do not appear, but when it is loading the \"\"FIRMWARE.CUR\"\" it does appear.\n\nWhat exactly is happening? How do I fix those horizontal lines on boot?\n\",Abel,\"Something is causing your screen to get signals to display that before your board properly takes it over after 3 seconds. It is an oddly repetitive pattern.\n\nIf it is software, you should not see it on a stable stock marlin release with minimal customizations to enable the LCD. Usually nothing else shares pins with the LCD, but please do double check pin assignments.\n\nBeyond software lies a realm of hardware issues:\n\nIssue could be due to bad wiring or wires running in areas where they are picking up noise as the system boots up; LCD ribbons are not particularly noise resistant. I say wiring but it could be anywhere along the circuit, including circuit boards.\n\nThere is also some (smaller) chance that your power supply is providing the noise at the initial boot up in which case you may be able to resolve it by adding capacitors to stabilize the DC voltage. Not sure what check you already did of the power supply, but a DC (RMS) reading may not show anything strange on a regular multimeter even if there is a strange AC signal.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n8100,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Manolo,0.0,3.858765237368842,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Reinforce screw holes,\"I made some 3D printed supports for tools, using screws to fix it to the wall, some of them broken because of the screw forces. Is there a way to reinforce only the screw holes where it will have more stress/compress? I am using PLA, Fusion 360 and Ultimaker Cura.\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"In order to add localised extra walls, I will sometimes cut a torus shape around the part that I want to strengthen. This can result in n*wall, infill, n*wall, void, n*wall.\n\nSee the images in this answer if the description is not clear.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8100,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Manolo,0.0,3.858765237368842,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Reinforce screw holes,\"I made some 3D printed supports for tools, using screws to fix it to the wall, some of them broken because of the screw forces. Is there a way to reinforce only the screw holes where it will have more stress/compress? I am using PLA, Fusion 360 and Ultimaker Cura.\n\",3D TECH BRASIL,\"You can test different print settings. Trying to visualize, but I believe you can increase the perimeter lines, since there is a hole, this will increase the resistance in that area. Or try to change the orientation with which the part will be printed\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n8103,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Manolo,1.0891412423578797,2.5245875148292196,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Print box bigger than the printer bed,\"I am trying to make a box that is 420 mm wide by 86 mm tall by 100 mm long, I wonder if there is a good technique to design, cut, print and fit all parts together to be safe and hard. \n\",3D TECH BRASIL,\"Are you making a simple box? Or does it have some kind of detail or structure? The photo below exemplifies a structure attached to connectors that have been created outside of Fusion, but you can also use it as an idea to create your own!\n\n\n\nLink to OPENSCAD LIBRARY\n\nIf you are thinking of cutting into parts, you can also create a kind of male / female (puzzle) in the parts that fit. Something like that ...\n\n\n\nHere is some interesting information to study How to design Snap-fit Joints for 3D Printing\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n8105,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,J K,2.8153892694839717,5.009553671216609,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.929104701733314,3.3504271193088333,How fast can printer head move without damaging steppers?,\"Is there any risk of damaging stepper motors if I set too big travel speed?\nWhat is maximum safe travel speed?\n\nMy printer is a German RepRap Neo.\n\nI currently use 120 mm/s. Is it safe to increase this value to 200 mm/s?\nWhat would my printer do if I set very big travel speed?\n\",user77232,\"Stepper motors contain permanent magnets, which are only really damaged by heat. The coils in the motor are only damaged by high currents that would happen at voltages above the maximum rating of the motor. While it is possible to configure a stepper driver to send enough current into a stepper motor to damage it (either due to heat or over current), desktop 3d printer drivers do not have enough current capacity to do such damage to those NEMA 17 stepper motors. The only thing bad that will happen is that you risk over heating the driver or the components around it on the PCB causing an early failure of the parts. (Google \"\"Temperature Cycling and Fatigue in electronics\"\"). \n\nThat aside, the only problem that you are likely to encounter is stepper stalling.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8105,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,J K,2.8153892694839717,5.009553671216609,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.929104701733314,3.3504271193088333,How fast can printer head move without damaging steppers?,\"Is there any risk of damaging stepper motors if I set too big travel speed?\nWhat is maximum safe travel speed?\n\nMy printer is a German RepRap Neo.\n\nI currently use 120 mm/s. Is it safe to increase this value to 200 mm/s?\nWhat would my printer do if I set very big travel speed?\n\",E Doe,\"Short answer no\n\nWe use stepper drivers to limit the current, the travel speed is at capped by the amount of current supplied by the stepper drivers. This prevents the stepper motors from damaging themselves. You can set 200mm/s in the slicer, but you have no guarantee that that will be reached in real life.\n\nOne thing to keep in mind though is that setting your travel speed too high can induce artifacts such: shifted layers, ghosting, uneven extrusion, etc. So the best thing is to keep the speeds within the specified limits.\n\",3.367452517504837,2.0769199823829045\n8115,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dave Benemerito,1.726248027126092,3.4059665074531917,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,How to design gears,\"I want to create a micromouse project for fun that use 2 20 mm x 8.5 mm (0.8 mm shaft) motors. I have my own PCB as base. I want its built-in gears will be attached to two 3D-printed wheels with gears at the back of the wheels at each side. I'm having hard time to start designing the gears since I couldn't find any tutorial.\n\n(photo for reference and not mine)\n\n\n\nMy Question:\n\n\nHow to design the gears at the back of the wheel? (I use Sketchup)\nIs 3d-printing such small objects possible?\n\n\",Cem Kalyoncu,\"Designing gears is very difficult for a variety of reasons. Let me list what you should take into account:\n\n\nThe shape of the teeth are very peculiar, trapezoid shape will not work as the meshing will not be constant. Exact shape is controlled by the pressure angle\nIn lower number of teeth, teeth shape must be modified to avoid any locks, these are called cutoffs\nReducing the amount of material to print requires careful design, most people simply place circles but they cause weak points.\nHerringbone and double herringbone gears improve meshing but are even more difficult to design.\n\n\nFor the reasons stated above, creating gears by hand is next to impossible without special tools. Luckily for those who are searching for it, there are systems that generate gears for 3D printing. This customizer has many options and is very open about the licensing, which is another issue with many scripts. For example, it is explicitly forbidden to print parts imported from the McMaster-Carr Catalogue.\n\nIf you use OpenSCAD, this library can create racks to go with the gears.\n\nThe parameters of the customizer are explained in the page. The script also contains explanations of every module and function.\n\nDisclaimer: Both scripts are mine, yet I do not earn anything when people use them. I created the library when I was unable to find the gears I needed, published with a relaxed license to help others.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n8115,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dave Benemerito,1.726248027126092,3.4059665074531917,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,How to design gears,\"I want to create a micromouse project for fun that use 2 20 mm x 8.5 mm (0.8 mm shaft) motors. I have my own PCB as base. I want its built-in gears will be attached to two 3D-printed wheels with gears at the back of the wheels at each side. I'm having hard time to start designing the gears since I couldn't find any tutorial.\n\n(photo for reference and not mine)\n\n\n\nMy Question:\n\n\nHow to design the gears at the back of the wheel? (I use Sketchup)\nIs 3d-printing such small objects possible?\n\n\",fho,\"There are also several gear generators out there. Correct gear geometry is important for long life and noise reasons. \n\nOne thing to keep in mind is that iff you are able to print accurate gears it's easy to print herringbone gears which are not easily machinable with other techniques.\n\nThat should cover the how (use a generator and import the geometry). The \"\"is it possible\"\" depends on your 3d printing skills, if possible you need to be able to do 0.1 mm tolerances, elephant footing will make the gear unusable.\n\nThat said I was able to print some planetary gears 'in place' (ie. assembled on the print bed) using a raft to avoid fusion of the lower layers:\n\n\n\nSpinning the gear printed on raft: https://imgur.com/IRlulJF\nSpinning the gear without a raft directly on the print bed: https://imgur.com/0p02uKV\n\nThe first one is still on my work desk as a fidget spinner because it spins so nicely ;-)\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n8124,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hammad Khan,1.0891412423578797,3.7127158133162173,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Can snap-fit connector be designed for 3D Printing?,\"I am new to 3D Printing. We currently have to design in process that I want to finish. The design consists of two parts (top and bottom), the top and bottom that need to snap fit into each other. The arrangement should be similar to the one used in many electronics, for example, the cordless phones in the picture below.\n\nMy question is, can such clips be done with 3D printing? Will they last (be used 5 to 20 times) and does the material used for 3D printing make a difference? Is there a material that is particularly good for such snap-fit connectors? \n\nNote that my design will only be a prototype and eventually we would be creating a mold for our product.\n\n\n\",Trish,\"yes\n\nYou can totally print snap-fit connectors for 3D printing, but you need to keep some things in mind. I assume that since you have looked at these connectors, you have a good idea about the matter, but I nevertheless suggest Angus (MakersMuse) discussion locking devices at the beginning of a tutorial Video on designing buckles.\n\nYour tabs thickness will need to be at least one line width wide at the most narrow point to be printable at all.\n\nPrint-Orientation\n\nAnother thing besides thickness is orientation. For the strongest tabs, you might want to print the tabs like a C for maximum part strength. Just modeling the part with the tabs, it should print in this orientation then:\n\n\n\nThis way the bending is not applying stress against layer boundaries but 90° to them, giving even force on each layer. This means that you will need to print parts in awkward orientations just for the tabs usually. You will need lots of support.\n\nYou can certainly print in a less awkward position at the expense of strength of the tab, acknowledging that \"\"this is a prototype, we can show you that it closes perfectly like this, though due to FDM limitations we might break the tabs opening it again. So we'll be careful.\"\"\n\nprototype-variation of model\n\nSnaples tabs\n\nIt might be however easier to print the tabs flat and without the hooks, allowing to do a fitting test, but not a snap-connection. Your benefit is, that you won't have to watch for print orientation, but it won't be locking. Make sure to work with workflow and put the modifications for easy printing/not-locking at the end. Alterations to the general design should come all before this point. Then turn off these steps to create the model that is sent to machining for the mold.\n\nModular intermediate design\n\nIf you need to have working, strong tabs AND a good print, it can pay off to print separate parts that combine into a single piece with a little glue. Maybe the C-clamp is actually a thin bar that is put into the back plate and glued into place or secured with a little friction weld.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n8129,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mauro Rivera,2.528907649931287,3.7393256487986095,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,1.3276579603156529,How can I avoid jamming in the feeder?,\"Recently, at work we bought a Guider II printer from FlashForge.\nWhen we try to print models using a high resolution or models with a too high printing time, the feeder gets clogged. And the feeder is too hot. We have concluded that the feeder is getting clogged because the high temperature softens the PLA.\n\nWe check the feeder fan and is working fine. How can I avoid the jamming? Pausing the 3D printer and wait a few minutes is not working for us. I don't know if it is a common problem for this 3D printer model.\n\nEdit: \n\nThe hotend is an all metal hot end. I can't find more information about the hot end. \n\nIn the manual of the guider II flashforge recommend a temperature of 210°C for the head and 30°C for the bed. I have tried different temperatures. The most common temperature I've used is 190°C for the head and 55°C for the bed (I obtain the best results with this temperature).\n\nThis is the Hotend used by this 3d printer.\n\n\",0scar,\"The symptoms you describe hint to heat creep. Heat creep is the gradual increase in temperature of the cold end assembly (cooling fins and heat break). This gradual temperature increase leads to too high filament temperatures and as such premature filament softening. In combination with (large) retraction settings, this can lead to clogging of the nozzle. All-metal hotend assemblies are more prone experiencing these problems; lined hotends have a PTFE lining that also insulates the filament so that it does not soften prematurely like in all-metal hotends can happen. Heat creep is best remedied by properly cooling the hotend (good quality fan, no obstructions or large ducts) and reducing the retraction length (and possibly lowering the print temperature, but you already tried that). You could also contact the manufacturer for advice.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n8129,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mauro Rivera,2.528907649931287,3.7393256487986095,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,1.3276579603156529,How can I avoid jamming in the feeder?,\"Recently, at work we bought a Guider II printer from FlashForge.\nWhen we try to print models using a high resolution or models with a too high printing time, the feeder gets clogged. And the feeder is too hot. We have concluded that the feeder is getting clogged because the high temperature softens the PLA.\n\nWe check the feeder fan and is working fine. How can I avoid the jamming? Pausing the 3D printer and wait a few minutes is not working for us. I don't know if it is a common problem for this 3D printer model.\n\nEdit: \n\nThe hotend is an all metal hot end. I can't find more information about the hot end. \n\nIn the manual of the guider II flashforge recommend a temperature of 210°C for the head and 30°C for the bed. I have tried different temperatures. The most common temperature I've used is 190°C for the head and 55°C for the bed (I obtain the best results with this temperature).\n\nThis is the Hotend used by this 3d printer.\n\n\",Cem Kalyoncu,\"If the temperature is too high it can charr the plastic, causing jams. There are many reasons for that. If the temperature you have selected is not too high (<200C), then it might be the thermistor not correctly reading the temperature. If you can measure the hot end temperature, that will give definitive answer to that question. \n\nAdditionally, some filament contains additives that can get burned even at lower temperatures. I find it every difficult to print with woodfill if it takes very long to print. Some wood chips gets burned and causes jamming.\n\",0.0,0.0\n8136,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,1125,2.8153892694839717,5.245951335244222,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Ender 3 distance between nozzle and bed changing on Y-axis,\"After I level my Ender 3, the distance between the nozzle and the bed seems fine on both ends, but moving the bed on the Y axis shows that it's increasing and decreasing for three times, which I just cant fix.\n\nThis only occurs on the left side - the right side is constant from beginning to end.\nAlso I've been using three different beds (the magnetic one and two glasses) to make sure it's really something else.\n\nI created this video to demonstrate the problem. \n\nI'm sure that this has something to do with the carriage wheel adjustment, but tightening those did not change anything.\n\nHow do I get rid of this problem?\n\",Trish,\"Your video shows that your bed seems warped somewhat.\n\nAmmount of error\n\nAs I assume you did level the bed with a sheet of paper to be 0.1 mm thick, we can estimate the change of thickness. The thickest point seems to be 0.2 mm, the thinnest 0.05. that's in average an error of 0.075 mm for the first layer. If you can live with that, no need to touch it.\n\nFixing the issue\n\nBasically, if the error is too large for your liking, you need to fix it. To fix it, there are pretty much 2 ways. Remember that the Ender-3 uses 24V when ordering parts!\n\nFix the part or install a replacement part\n\nIf you feel like you need to get it even flatter, you'll need to try to flatten the bed mechanically or replace it. You'll need to be comfortable to remove the BuildTak-clone surface, then remove the leveling screws, open the electronics enclosure, remove some hot glue, unhook the bed.\n\nThen you will need to flatten the bed in some way (grinding the upper side perfectly flat or bending it, replacing it for an entirely flat one).\n\nThen reinstall it, going through the uninstallation backward, and add a new build surface on it.\n\nSwitch to alternate leveling method: Mesh Bed Leveling\n\nIf you consider yourself to be able to do some intermediate to advanced modification of your printer, you can change the hotend carriage to one that allows mounting a distance sensor and changing the firmware to mesh-bed-leveling. \n\nYou'll need to get an induction or capacity sensor (common operation ranges for those are 6-36V, so perfectly fine with 24V) and some way to couple that to the board, most likely an optocoupler. Print a new mounting for sensor and fans.\n\nTo install you open the electronics compartment, hook up your chosen 24V-5V coupler as extra to the Z-switch, hook the power supply of the sensor up and run it up to the printhead. Replace the mounting for the hotend cooling fan and part cooling fan and change your firmware. Calibrate the height of the sensor to trigger correctly.\n\nI did flash a bootloader via the ISP on my ender-3 since then, so I can just flash the new firmware via a direct connection.\n\nLast words\n\nIn either way, after fixing, you should run a PID-tune on the machine.\n\nThermal Runaway might or might not be active, depending on your firmware iteration, so you should update it anyway, which might make Mesh Bed Leveling the slightly easier way to go.\n\nThis has nothing to do with the bed carriage wheels, as the bed hangs onto the carriage only via the screws in the corners.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n8136,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,1125,2.8153892694839717,5.245951335244222,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Ender 3 distance between nozzle and bed changing on Y-axis,\"After I level my Ender 3, the distance between the nozzle and the bed seems fine on both ends, but moving the bed on the Y axis shows that it's increasing and decreasing for three times, which I just cant fix.\n\nThis only occurs on the left side - the right side is constant from beginning to end.\nAlso I've been using three different beds (the magnetic one and two glasses) to make sure it's really something else.\n\nI created this video to demonstrate the problem. \n\nI'm sure that this has something to do with the carriage wheel adjustment, but tightening those did not change anything.\n\nHow do I get rid of this problem?\n\",1125,\"I managed to get rid of the problem by installing a linear rail for the y-axis!\n\n\nUsed this mod from thingyverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3064275\n\nThere are also solutions out there which are placing a linear rail on the left AND right side, but since for me the problem was only on the left side, this seemed sufficient (and was).\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8139,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jonathan Gallant-Mills,3.0576060275493275,3.6561754105338378,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.306096197889172,Why did my printer's nozzle dig itself into my print?,\"I just completed my first print on my Ender-3 and when the print finalized itself the nozzle didn't elevate itself to clear away from the piece. I watched as the nozzle slowly lowered itself into my print and destroy it. Here is the gcode generated by Slic3r used:\n\n\n; Filament-specific end gcode\nG4 ; wait\nM221 S100\nM106 S0 ; turn off cooling fan\nM104 S0 ; turn off extruder\nM140 S0 ; turn off bed\nG91\nG1 F1800 E-3\nG90\nG1 Z{z_offset+min(layer_z+30, max_print_height)}{endif} ; Move print head up\nG28 X0 ; home x and y axis\nG1 Y180; Remove Print Position\nM84 ; disable motors\nM300 S2600 P100; Beep\n; filament used = 24040.5mm (57.8cm3)\n; total filament cost = 0.0\n\n\n\n\",PikesPeakCode,\"The same thing happened to me several years ago. My print was a fairly tall part for my delta printer, about 220 mm. In many previous prints, the print head would always go up after finishing, but what I didn't know was that the Slic3r finish print routine specified an absolute Z height of about 200 mm. When the tall part finished, the still-hot print head moved down and ruined the top of the print. \n\nAfter figuring out that the routine had an absolute reference, I replaced it with a relative movement 20 mm up. It's worked fine since then. An easy fix.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8139,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jonathan Gallant-Mills,3.0576060275493275,3.6561754105338378,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.306096197889172,Why did my printer's nozzle dig itself into my print?,\"I just completed my first print on my Ender-3 and when the print finalized itself the nozzle didn't elevate itself to clear away from the piece. I watched as the nozzle slowly lowered itself into my print and destroy it. Here is the gcode generated by Slic3r used:\n\n\n; Filament-specific end gcode\nG4 ; wait\nM221 S100\nM106 S0 ; turn off cooling fan\nM104 S0 ; turn off extruder\nM140 S0 ; turn off bed\nG91\nG1 F1800 E-3\nG90\nG1 Z{z_offset+min(layer_z+30, max_print_height)}{endif} ; Move print head up\nG28 X0 ; home x and y axis\nG1 Y180; Remove Print Position\nM84 ; disable motors\nM300 S2600 P100; Beep\n; filament used = 24040.5mm (57.8cm3)\n; total filament cost = 0.0\n\n\n\n\",0scar,\"You are using incorrect commands in your end-code for the incorrect tool with respect to the print head raise.\n\nSlic3r has no knowledge of the maximum printer height (as in variable max_print_height) because there is no input field to specify this, as can be seen in this partial screenshot:\n\n\n\nHowever, in Slic3r PE (Prusa Edition), there is a possibility to enter such a value, as seen in the following partial screenshot:\n\n\n\nNote that in both editions, the Bed shape interface is equivalent when Set... is pressed:\n\n\nTo use the raising of the head, respecting the maximum print height, in Slic3r PE, you need to add the following line:\n\n{if layer_z < max_print_height}G1 Z{z_offset+min(layer_z+60, max_print_height)}{endif}\n\n\nThis will parse fine in Slic3r PE, but not in Slic3r (as max_print_height is not known).\n\nIf you want such a command in Slic3r, you need to enter (for a printer with a maximum print height of 240 mm):\n\nG1 Z{[z_offset]+min([layer_z]+3, 240)}\n\n\nresults in Slic3r for a 20x20x20 mm calibration cube with a zero z_offset to:\n\nG1 Z23\n\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n8142,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,lukaspanic,1.0891412423578797,4.0987127413481135,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Anet A8 & BLTouch not homing Z,\"I have an Anet A8 with Marlin Firmware 1.1.9 and I installed a BLTouch sensor. When I start the system the BLTouch does its self test (extend and retract the probe twice) and then lights up red. When I \"\"Auto Home\"\", it homes X, then Y and then extends and retracts the probe and moves up a few millimeters. Then with the probe retracted it moves down until the nozzle crashes into the table. The same happens when I select \"\"Level bed\"\".\n\nSafe Homing is active.\n\nWhat am I doing wrong?\n\nMy current Configuration.h can be found here.\n\",3D TECH BRASIL,\"You must invert the logic of the endstop Z_min. \n\ndefine Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true\n\nTo \n\ndefine Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING False\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8149,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Vanuan,1.0891412423578797,3.2591265203387754,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,How to specify rotation origin in openscad,\"OpenSCAD has rotate function which rotates the body around its origin axis.\n\nIs there a way to specify an arbitrary axis?\n\nFor example, this rotates a cylinder around its center:\n\nrotate(a=[90,0,0]) {\n cylinder(h=10,r1=10,r2=10);\n}\n\n\nHow to make it rotate around its edge?\n\",kintel,\"rotate() always rotates around the origin of the object following it.\nWhat you can do is to move your cylinder away from the origin, like this:\n\nrotate(a=[90,0,0]) {\n translate([0,10,0]) cylinder(h=10,r1=10,r2=10);\n}\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8149,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Vanuan,1.0891412423578797,3.2591265203387754,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,How to specify rotation origin in openscad,\"OpenSCAD has rotate function which rotates the body around its origin axis.\n\nIs there a way to specify an arbitrary axis?\n\nFor example, this rotates a cylinder around its center:\n\nrotate(a=[90,0,0]) {\n cylinder(h=10,r1=10,r2=10);\n}\n\n\nHow to make it rotate around its edge?\n\",Cem Kalyoncu,\"You can use the following module in your code to achieve what you wish:\n\nmodule myrotate(a, orig) {\n translate(orig)\n rotate(a)\n translate(-orig)\n children();\n}\n\nmyrotate([0,0,90], [0, 10, 0]) {\n cube([10, 10, 25]);\n}\n\nmyrotate([0,0,-90], [0, 10, 0]) {\n cube([10, 10, 25]);\n}\n\ncolor([1, 0, 0])\ncube([10, 10, 25]);\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8159,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,AS Gerner,2.528907649931287,5.337698130808438,1.7539669625835614,5.646830619998737,2.746326330407206,2.207848736867354,Creality CR-10S Pro 3D printer heated bed turns off after first few layers: normal?,\"When I run prints on my Creality CR-10S Pro 3D printer (using Ultimaker Cura as slicer), I set the heated bed to around 70 °C for PETG. after the first few layers, the heated bed set point changes to 0 °C. \n\nIs it normal for a 3D printer to turn the heated bed off during a print, or is this a problem?\n\nI have had some parts warping, and wonder if this is a potential cause.\n\",0scar,\"No, this is not common behavior, and yes this can cause your prints to warp or detach from the build plate.\n\nThe question is whether you instructed this (by accident) or not (e.g. it can be a result from slicing or some economy mode of the printer). This should be clear if you look into the G-code file that you print. The typical commands that concern bed heating are M140 and M190.\n\nPlease note that this a general answer to find bed heating operation in your G-code file. Other answers, e.g this one and this one hint to a specific ability of the printer that shuts off the heating of the bed when it is working in an economic mode. Note that this is printer specific.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n8159,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,AS Gerner,2.528907649931287,5.337698130808438,1.7539669625835614,5.646830619998737,2.746326330407206,2.207848736867354,Creality CR-10S Pro 3D printer heated bed turns off after first few layers: normal?,\"When I run prints on my Creality CR-10S Pro 3D printer (using Ultimaker Cura as slicer), I set the heated bed to around 70 °C for PETG. after the first few layers, the heated bed set point changes to 0 °C. \n\nIs it normal for a 3D printer to turn the heated bed off during a print, or is this a problem?\n\nI have had some parts warping, and wonder if this is a potential cause.\n\",Michael Haywood,\"Cr-10 S Pro has an eco mode make sure it's not turned on because this will turn your bed off after the first few layers have printed.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n8162,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mallikarjun Talagade,1.0891412423578797,4.999969029357761,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,\"Bed Heating Failed, Printer Halted, Please Reset\",\"A couple of weeks ago I have successfully built a 3D Printer and Printed an XYZ Calibration Cube with ABS material at bed temperature 80 °C.\n\nNext Day I tried bed heating at bed temperature 80 °C, \n\n\n Screen is blank\n\n\nand it's not heating at all and showing Following error.\n\n\n Bed Heating Failed\n Printer Halted\n Please Reset\n\n\nSpecification board\n\nI use a RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin 1.1.X\n\nTroubleshooting\n\nI searched on Google and tried possible solutions but they are not working.\n\n\nI changed the thermistor and nothing happened, the old thermistor is also showing the same temperature.\nI connected 12V Supply Positive to SMPS (Switched-Mode Power Supply) and Negative to RAMPS 1.4 and not working\nI checked the Voltage at heat bed it's showing zero in spite connecting to SMPS\n\n\nPlease let me know how can I fix the problem? \n\n\n\",Chaos_99,\"Check that your heated bed is still working: \n\n\nMeasure the resistance of your heated bed. It depends an the power\nrating of the bed, but 12V beds usually have values <3 Ohms. That's\nhard to measure for cheap multimeters, but you just need to check\nthat it's not MOhms which would indicate a broken heated bed.\nYour heated bed could also have a short. That's hard to measure, as <3Ohms are already 'almost a short'. You'll only notice because your\nbed will not get warm, but the wires, connectors and elements on the\nRAMPS will get even hotter. Marlin should detect this and switch off\nafter a few seconds.\nCheck your thermistor. Seems you already did that.\nCheck your RAMPS by measuring the voltage on the bed connector while setting the bed to heat up. You should see 12V, at least in the\nfrist few seconds.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8163,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ivan,3.0576060275493275,3.4291679796504773,0.0,4.670422881206417,4.091740895605862,2.6553159206313057,Can an extruder rated for 24 V work with 12 V ATX power supply?,\"Heads up: I'm not good with electronics and only have a vague idea of it's inner workings.\n\nI have a E3D V6 Extruder rated for 24 V, that i plan to use in my 3D printer. Will there be any problems with it if powered by 12 V? Will it take longer to heat up? Will it be able to heat up enough to melt PLA? Will it work at all for that matter?\nIf there are any other quirks or potential problems that I overlooked, please let me know.\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"No, it probably won't work as you want. As explained in another answer, you will only achieve 25% of the expected power. So it will take 4 times as long to heat up, will have a lower 'highest temperature', and most critically will reduce the possible print speed by a factor of around 4 (actually more, since a proportion of the power is lost to the room rather than used to melt filament).\n\nI guess that you could print with this setup as a temporary measure (so long as it's PLA, or some other low-ish temperature filament). It would not be a sensible choice, particularly since the extruder only needs a single component to be swapped out to change between 12 V and 24 V operation (the heater cartridge). All the mechanical parts will be identical between the two versions, and these are the 'expensive' elements in the assembly.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8163,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ivan,3.0576060275493275,3.4291679796504773,0.0,4.670422881206417,4.091740895605862,2.6553159206313057,Can an extruder rated for 24 V work with 12 V ATX power supply?,\"Heads up: I'm not good with electronics and only have a vague idea of it's inner workings.\n\nI have a E3D V6 Extruder rated for 24 V, that i plan to use in my 3D printer. Will there be any problems with it if powered by 12 V? Will it take longer to heat up? Will it be able to heat up enough to melt PLA? Will it work at all for that matter?\nIf there are any other quirks or potential problems that I overlooked, please let me know.\n\",0scar,\"Electrical engineering can be quite complex, but in this case you can save yourself with same simple equations/relations. Using the following formulae:\n\n\nVoltage ($\\ U$) equals current ($I$) multiplied by the electrical resistance ($R$)\n\n\n$$ U=I \\times R $$ \n\nand \n\n\nPower ($P$) equals the square of the current multiplied by the electrical resistance\n\n\n$$ P=I^2 \\times R $$\ncan be rewritten using the first formula to:\n$$ P= \\frac{U^2}{R} $$\n\nApplying these formulae to a 40 Watt, 24 V heater element, the electrical resistance (in $\\Omega $) is calculated by:\n$$ \\frac{{(24\\ V)}^2}{40\\ W}=14.4\\ \\Omega $$\n\nRunning this heater element with 12 V will lead to a power of \n$$ \\frac{{(12\\ V)}^2}{14.4\\ \\Omega}=10\\ W $$ \n\nThe heat produced is proportional to the square of the current multiplied by the electrical resistance, halving the voltage is quartering the heat output. This will heat up very slowly! If it is able to reach the required temperature that is. Calculating the temperature is far more difficult, but if you are interested in doing so, please look into this answer from the Electrical Engineering Stack Exchange.\n\",3.5068404193471867,2.0769199823829045\n8171,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Geekdude3,1.726248027126092,4.096995355543717,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Prusa Mk3 printing rough surfaces,\"My Prusa Mk3 has been making this sort of rough surface on prints, and I'm not sure what caused this. I am printing with PLA Prusament with 0.2 mm layer height at the preset for PLA. What is this, and how can I fix it?\n\n\n\nEdit: Changed absolutely nothing, tried again and problem solved!\n\",0scar,\"The OP was not able to reproduce the problem as can be taken from an edit to his question:\n\n\n Changed absolutely nothing, tried again and problem solved!\n\n\nTo honor the Q/A approach used on SE sites, this comment has been converted to a community answer, that once voted for will not make this question pop up once in a while.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8171,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Geekdude3,1.726248027126092,4.096995355543717,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Prusa Mk3 printing rough surfaces,\"My Prusa Mk3 has been making this sort of rough surface on prints, and I'm not sure what caused this. I am printing with PLA Prusament with 0.2 mm layer height at the preset for PLA. What is this, and how can I fix it?\n\n\n\nEdit: Changed absolutely nothing, tried again and problem solved!\n\",Perplexed Dipole,\"To me this looks like your nozzle is too hot. Try turning the temp down by 5 degrees at a time and see if the issue goes away.\n\",0.0,0.0\n8177,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Karol,2.1782824847157594,2.7905764474501265,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,What exactly does calibrating a 3D printer do?,\"I’m building a 3D printer and need to understand what calibration and bed leveling is, and I was surprised to see there isn’t a clear explanation on the internet anywhere. Does bed leveling compensate for an uneven bed? So then, what does calibrating do? Is it the same thing?\n\",Lux Claridge,\"First, welcome to the 3D Printing Stack Exchange!\n\nOn bed leveling\n\nBed leveling, or more accurately bed tramming, adjusts the bed so that it is even in relation to the print head. Typically it is done by sliding a paper between the nozzle and the bed when Z = 0, or the print head is at its lowest. The amount of friction should be similar to the amount of friction of a sheet of paper between two magazines (recommended by Tom Salander on YouTube I believe). One sheet of paper is about 0.1 mm, which is a common gap and allows for good adhesion of the deposited plastic, and typically the gap is measured at the four corners and the center of the bed.\n\nBut wait, there's more!\n\nMesh bed leveling can account for a physically uneven print bed (like a bowing glass sheet) and can be done manually like above or one can mount a sensor so that everything is automatic. The print bed is broken down into a grid (typically 3x3 or 5x5) and the Z height adjusts so that the gap is 0.1 mm at each point in the grid. A mesh is then made and stored in the printer. As the printer prints it makes the necessary variations in height so that the print is flat. Please note that the bed should be leveled as best as possible before setting up the mesh as it will vastly improve the resulting mesh. Mesh leveling is primarily software. The actual level of the bed remains unchanged, thus needing to level it prior to setting up the mesh.\n\nOther calibrations\n\nBed leveling (including mesh bed leveling) is one aspect of calibration. Other important factors to tune in are temperatures of the nozzle and the bed. For example, PLA has a temperature range of 180-230 °C but each printer is different and may need to print at a higher or lower temperature for best results. Or the printer reports a temperature of 200 °C but the thermistor is off and is actually printing at 190 °C. It's up to the user then to compensate if they want/need to print at an actual 200 °C.\n\nOther settings to tune are print speeds, acceleration and jerk, retraction, and extrusion. Faster print speeds can result in poorer quality prints, namely ghosting and under extrusion. Acceleration/jerk works in the same vein since it directly affects speed. Retraction helps with stringing. If the retraction settings are too low then there will be stringing on the model, if it's too high then there can be under extrusion and heat creep. Adjusting the extrusion factor will tell the printer to push more plastic out or push less. The higher the factor the more plastic is pushed. IMO best practice is to leave the factor at 1 in the slicer and calibrate the stepper motor itself (as can be seen here)\n\nCalibration models\n\nThere are several calibration models on thingiverse that can show common print issues. Some of the popular ones are:\n\n\nThe calibration cube which one can ensure that the motors are moving accurately to print out a 20 mm cube. This also shows ghosting along any of the three axes. This cube may also point out if any of the axes aren't 90 degrees perpendicular to each other as the cube should be, well, a cube and not an amorphous shape (thanks to Joel Coehoorn for pointing this out).\n3DBenchy which shows a myriad of potential print quality issues including ghosting, poor overhangs/bridging, and stringing.\nA Temperature Tower uses post scripting in the slicer to change the temperatures so one can determine the different print qualities across a spectrum of temperature. There are a lot of different models online if this one does not work for you.\nAn all-in-one test can do a lot of tests in one model and they are all labeled within the model. (The linked one is the mini version, there are several similar tests online.)\nThis list is by no means inclusive, there are several other models that can test other problems. These are just what's usually printed (especially the cube and Benchy).\n\n\nHappy printing!\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n8180,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mbmast,3.0576060275493275,3.6528930163092497,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Where to get the Slic3r configuration files for the 3D PrinterWorks Creatorbot printers?,\"I have a Creatorbot 3D printer made by 3D PrinterWorks. Their website appears to be down, as well as their Facebook page. To me it appears they are no longer around.\n\nI've installed Slic3r as 3D PrinterWorks has recommended in the handbook but cannot download the settings for this from the 3D PrinterWorks website, since that is down. \n\nDoes anyone know where I can get the Slic3r configuration file for the Creatorbot?\n\",Lux Claridge,\"Looks like 3dprinterworks.net went down sometime after March 2018 and 3dprinterworks.com went down in January 2019. Luckily the Wayback Machine still has the machine's specs.\n\nHere is the instructions for entering settings in Slic3r as found here in lieu of importing a profile. (Please note that I have not used Slic3r so the following is solely based on the link)\n\nThe key settings under General are \n\n\nBed size*: X = 305 mm; Y = 305 mm; and Z = 457 mm\nPrint center**: X = 152.5 mm; Y = 152.5 mm\nExtruders: 2\nHeated Bed: Checked\n\n\nUnder Extruder (each extruder should have its own settings so be sure to set up both)\n\n\nNozzle diameter: 0.4 mm\nExtruder 2 offset: 30.9 mm (good job, OP on finding the email stating this)\nEverything from Retraction and on is up to what works best for you\n\n\nThere may be a set of setting for acceleration (there is in Ultimaker Cura) which is 3000 mm/s2 for most printers, I think. This is the max acceleration, not to be confused with acceleration settings when slicing the model.\n\nThe next set of settings, though outside of the Slic3r link, regards the filament. The diameter should be 1.75 mm and the nozzle temperature should be within the range of the filament (e.g. PLA should be set within 180-220 °C) and a heated bed set to 50-60 °C. These parameters are filament dependent and not printer dependent (other than diameter).\n\nThat should be the settings that a profile would set for you. Thankfully there's not too many.\n\n\n\n*There is a wizard for this section that may make input easier, but here is the build volume. \n**This setting may require whole numbers and may, in fact, not be a necessary setting at all.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n8191,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Benjamin Tan Wei Hao,1.0891412423578797,4.31211844916221,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Ender 3 needs Power Supply AND USB to work,\"I installed a BLTouch on my Ender 3 following this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sUlqrSq6LeY.\n\nWhat I noticed too late was that when installing the BLTouch, I swapped the brown and red wires followed by connecting it to the mainboard.\n\nThen I realized that the printer wouldn't turn on. After reading some of the comments, I swapped back the wire and I could see the BLTouch do its self-test.\n\nHowever, it seems that I need to plug into the USB before the LCD + motors can work.\n\nSo is my mainboard fried? Or how should I fix it?\n\",Benjamin Tan Wei Hao,\"It seems like I blew the regulator based on the comment in the Reddit post: https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/ao5m5b/ender_3_can_only_be_powered_on_by_psu_and_usb/\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n8204,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TempleGuard527,1.726248027126092,3.6912794068058914,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Use Gcode Extrusion Speed in Calculations,\"I have a Rostock Max V2, and I've added a second extruder going into a y-splitter into a single nozzle on my printer. I have both extruders working correctly, but I'm having trouble tuning the retraction settings to prevent stringing when I switch between extruders during a print. My system is essentially identical to the setup seen here. However, I can't get my printer to retract as cleanly as the one in the video\n\nWhat I'm trying to avoid is the long, thin \"\"tail\"\" that forms when retracting the filament from the hot end. That \"\"tail\"\" binds the other filament during the switch and makes the extruder grind a hollow spot on the filament.\n\nI've had limited success tuning my retraction settings, but I find that I need different settings for different extrusion speeds. For example, after an extrusion like G1 E20 F240 a 3mm retraction, 3mm extrusion, then a fast retraction creates a nice, clean break (this routine is recommended here by kraeger on the SeeMeCNC forums). However, after an extrusion like G1 E20 F900 I have to use longer retractions to get a clean break. I think this might have to do with the filament acting like a spring inside the bowden tube. It would make sense to me that the harder you push the filament, the more you need to pull back to compensate for the pent-up spring force.\n\nHere's my question: Is there a way to read the value of the extrusion speed, essentially the \"\"F\"\" term from the gcode commands, and change my retraction routine accordingly.\n\nExample pseudocode:\n\nIf F value < 500 Then do short retraction\nIf F value > 500 AND F value < 1000 Then do medium retraction\nIf F value > 1000 Then do long retraction\n\n\nI'm using the tool change script feature in Simplify3D to store the tool change code.\n\",Nach0z,\"I don't think you're going to find either a firmware feature or a slicer feature that handles specifically what you want to do. The slicer would probably be the best place to put it, and I'd recommend maybe opening a feature request ticket with Ultimaker, because that sounds like an awesome feature.\n\nThat being said, there's nothing stopping you from post-processing your GCode file after it's been generated. If you're experienced with python at all, that's the place I'd recommend you start.\n\nYou'll probably want to do it via the following:\n\n\nFind the first line number that does a retraction.\nSum up all the extrusion distances between that line and the starting point (the beginning of the file)\nReplace the retraction distance and feedrate with whatever your short/medium/long retraction settings are\nStore that line number as your new starting point\nGOTO 1.\n\n\nIf you're using Slic3r, there's actually a post-processing script function built into the app itself, you just need to write the script and give it to the application to make the whole process hands-off. For other slicers you'll probably just have to run the script manually between slicing and printing.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n8210,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Melvin,2.1782824847157594,5.712744064492084,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.6553159206313057,Is PETG filament food safe?,\"I've been trying to find a 3D printer filament which would not release any chemicals if in contact with heated water for a substantial amount of time. So far, I've easily ruled out both PLA and ABS, as they're not considered food safe from what I can find. I have found PETG filament, which seems to be food safe. \n\nMy question is: \"\"Is there's anything special you'd have to do to make sure the print is food safe, or as in my case, to make sure it's safe for usage in a mug?\"\".\n\nI will be using a steel extruder as brass ones may contain lead.\n\",Mick,\"Many manufactures list their filaments as being food safe, but I would not treat this as \"\"gospel truth\"\". Apparently, the FDA considers PETG to be safe for food contact, but they are probably thinking about injection-moulded and vacuum-formed parts. Unfortunately, an initial search of the FDA's website did not yield any definitive information.\n\nEven if a particular filament is genuinely food safe, that does not mean that a 3D-printed part made from it will be food safe, since there will be an abundance of nooks and crannies where bacteria can lodge and reproduce. You would have to sterilise a utensil before and after every use to be absolutely safe.\n\nAnyway, good luck with making a water-tight mug with an FDM printer. You will probably have to seal it to make it water-tight, and then it will be the food-safety of the sealant that you will need to worry about. I would give it a miss, if I were you (at least, for other people's use). Items intended for one-time use would be OK, I suppose.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n8210,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Melvin,2.1782824847157594,5.712744064492084,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,2.6553159206313057,Is PETG filament food safe?,\"I've been trying to find a 3D printer filament which would not release any chemicals if in contact with heated water for a substantial amount of time. So far, I've easily ruled out both PLA and ABS, as they're not considered food safe from what I can find. I have found PETG filament, which seems to be food safe. \n\nMy question is: \"\"Is there's anything special you'd have to do to make sure the print is food safe, or as in my case, to make sure it's safe for usage in a mug?\"\".\n\nI will be using a steel extruder as brass ones may contain lead.\n\",Levi Giesbrecht,\"As far as PET-based filaments go, most of them are FDA approved. So yes, \"\"food safe\"\". It's the process of 3D printing that ruins that. all the little layers trap just about everything and are hard to clean. If you wanted to boil your part, that might work, but you'd be better off buying a food-safe coating spray for your parts.\n\",0.0,0.0\n8214,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,rufo,1.726248027126092,2.717179978327238,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,M12 vs M18 V5 inductive probe,\"I currently have my printrbot with a LJ12A3-4-Z/BX-5V Inductive Proximity Sensor ( 61mm M12 DC 5V NPN NO 300mA)\n\nThat detects my aluminium bed at around 1.2 mm distance. While it works, if the printer does the smallest blob the probe crashes into it. \n\nI am considering replacing the probe by the M18 version LJ18A3-8-Z/BX-5V (\nM18 8mm DC 5V NPN NO 300mA). \n\nI haven't been able to find real specs for these probes (apart from what the sellers put in eBay or AliExpress - which I do not trust). \n\nWill I get a larger detection distance with the M18 version of the 5 V probe? (I wonder if the M18 version is exactly the same M12 version with a larger casing).\n\nOr should I move to the 6-36 V versions of the probes - I do not want to do that to not modify my wiring. \n\",0scar,\"The larger the diameter and the higher the voltage the larger the detection distance. You do not need to do much wire modification if you use an optocoupler, see this anwer.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n8320,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,rufo,1.726248027126092,3.841500735601597,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Printrboard Rev. D - RX1 and TX1 (second serial port) / Marlin,\"I am trying to make Marlin use the RX1 and TX1 pins that are in the EXP1 connection. I am connecting those pins to the TX, RX of an Arduino.\n\nThe Configuration.h file has a SERIAL_PORT define, normally configured to be 0, but supposedly changeable. \n\nWhat should be changed in Marlin to make it used the Serial1 port (if possible at all)? I am using the latest code provided in Printrbot's Marlin repository\n\nFrom the Configuration.h file:\n\n// SERIAL_PORT selects which serial port should be used for communication with the host.\n// This allows the connection of wireless adapters (for instance) to non-default port pins.\n// Serial port 0 is still used by the Arduino bootloader regardless of this setting.\n#define SERIAL_PORT 0\n//#define SERIAL_PORT 1\n\n// This determines the communication speed of the printer\n// This determines the communication speed of the printer\n#define BAUDRATE 250000\n//#define BAUDRATE 9600\n\n\n\n\",rufo,\"I was able to resolve this issue: \n\n\nI moved to Marlin 1.1.9 (the final release of the 1.1.x versions).\nI made a fork, for those who would like to see the changes. Also summarized below.\nThe RX1 and TX1 pins are well identified in the question. I connected those directly to the HC-06 bluetooth module (using a voltage divider for the RX pin in the bluetooth, as it is a 3.3 V logic module).\n\n\nChanges in code: \n\nMarlin/Conditionals.LCD.h: commented out: \n\n// this line conflicted with the bluetooth/serial1 options\n// #define USE_MARLINSERIAL !(defined(__AVR__) && defined(USBCON))\n\n\nThe rest are the configuration options already provided by Marlin in Marlin.Configuration.h: \n\ndefine SERIAL_PORT 1\ndefine BAUDRATE 115200 // Note: this baudrate MUST match the one set in the bluetooth module. That's done using the AT commands. There is plenty of information on how to do that. \ndefine BLUETOOTH\n\n\nAs a result of these changes I am able to print with my PrintrBot Simple 2014 (Printrboard Rev. D) with Bluetooth over a distance of ~3.5mts, behind a wall. I haven't tested it exhaustely, but it does print. \n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n8325,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,rufo,1.726248027126092,2.4133631537631723,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Printrboard Rev. D. 3.3 V source,\"I am looking for a 3.3 V power source in the Printrboard Rev. D pins. \n\nI think there should be one somewhere... I do not know how to read the schematics that well. \n\nAlso, I am going to connect an HC-06, which draws 45 mA or less during operation. So, I need to know if it safe to get the power from the 3.3 V rail (if I find it).\n\nSo, the questions are: \n\n\nWhich one is the 3.3 V pin? \nAnd how much current can I draw from it?\n\n\n\n\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"On the schematic, the 3.3v is marked as \"\"U7\"\" and pointed out here:\n\n\n\nThe 3.3v is marked as pin #2. You can find the three pints from U7 here on the board (blue circle):\n\n\n\nI'm not exactly sure if the pins are accessed from the other side of the board, or even if they are marked at all on there. You can always check them with a multimeter to see what their output is. More than likely the bottom single pin is the ground and the top two are one or the other (5v & 3.3v). \n\nAs far as amperage draw, I'm thinking 45mA is not a lot of draw, but I'm not an expert. I'd think it should be able to handle it, but again, I really don't know. \n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n8397,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,rufo,2.8153892694839717,3.3152545075257334,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,Using hardboard for 3D printer enclosure; what is the temperature rating of hardboard?,\"I am looking for the temperature rating for hardboard. I want to use that as the base for my printer enclosure. \n\nIt has proven incredible hard get a ball-park figure from Google. \n\nSo, what is the maximum safe temperature for a hardboard panel at long term? (considering a print job can easily take 6 hours).\n\nPS: if you have used a hardboard to build your enclosure, your experience might be helpful.\n\",Trish,\"Masonite or hardboard is a high-density board without a resin. It is listed at around 200 to 275 °C for its autoignition temperature. Just for comparison, let's look at similar products.\n\nMedium-density fiberboard (MDF) is similar to hardboard but bonded with a resin, offering a smoother surface and is listed at 200 to 275 °C, so pretty close.\n\nThe heavier High-density fiberboard variant is listed with about the same temperatures of about 200 to 275 °C.\n\nOriented Strand Board (OSB) is listed at 200 to 260 °C.\n\nConclusion\n\nAll the materials have very similar autoignition temperatures, so none of them particularly shines over the other. Using a proper fire safety procedure is highly encouraged, even though the ambient temperature in the enclosure should not reach even close to the 200 °C unless the printer has a freak accident and catches fire itself.\n\n\nA smoke detector is a must.\nSome kind of cooling method that keeps the inside at a temperature down is highly encouraged. A simple temperature activated fan might help in this.\nLining the inside of the box with a thicker aluminium or copper tape can help to even out the temperature over the surfaces faster, preventing the formation of hotspots that might otherwise reach dangerous temperatures. Copper tapes are more expensive than Aluminium tapes but have a better heat transfer coefficient.1\nIncluding an automatic fire suppression system could be an option.\n\n\n1 - The RS Catalogue was just chosen for ease of navigation. McMaster Carr does list special heat shielding tape in both thin and aluminium as well as copper and aluminium foil tapes. I am not affiliated to either.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n8397,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,rufo,2.8153892694839717,3.3152545075257334,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,Using hardboard for 3D printer enclosure; what is the temperature rating of hardboard?,\"I am looking for the temperature rating for hardboard. I want to use that as the base for my printer enclosure. \n\nIt has proven incredible hard get a ball-park figure from Google. \n\nSo, what is the maximum safe temperature for a hardboard panel at long term? (considering a print job can easily take 6 hours).\n\nPS: if you have used a hardboard to build your enclosure, your experience might be helpful.\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"Hardboard is called Masonite here in the States because that is the trade name of the product. If you look up the Material Safety Data Sheet you will see Masonite it states the following (Section 5):\n\n\n Auto-ignition Temperature (°C): >200 degrees Celsius\n\n\nIn Section 7, it states:\n\n\n These boards are flammable but difficult to ignite.\n\n\nFurthermore in Section 10, it states:\n\n\n Conditions to avoid: Avoid sources of radiant heat and flame; and avoid sparks and sources of ignition in all electrical equipment, including dust extraction equipment.\n Avoid excessive build up of dust from boards.\n\n\nThe hot end works of printers are neither radiant heat, nor flames, nor sparks. Yes, you'll have a buildup of heat within the working confines of an enclosure, but if you are only using it for a base there should be absolutely no issues. If you were to build an entire enclosure from hardboard, you could put a thermal probe inside with the printer to ensure it doesn't get too hot, but realistically, it will never get hot enough within the enclosure to light the hardboard on fire.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n8216,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,wessel dijkstra,2.1782824847157594,3.8364869557858974,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Why did my power supply fuse blew out on my Anet A8?,\"So yesterday I got my power supply in the mail and I thought, let's check it out!\n\nI put all the wires in correctly (as shown in this YouTube video, Anet A8 power supply unit fuse blown, I just searched really quickly, this person has the same problem as me) and \"\"BANG\"\", it blew. \n\n\n\nLuckily the only thing broken on it is the fuse, for which I can get a new one, but my main question is .. why? why did it blow out? Did I wire it up wrong? The 12 V output goes to a RAMPS 1.4 board which is working correctly.\n\nIt worked the first time I plugged it in; the little green light went on. The second time a nice \"\"big bang\"\". When I tested it the first time, I didn't add the 12 V wires to the RAMPS board yet. When I did, the fuse of the PSU blew out.\n\nThe board is a RepRap RAMPS 1.4, which works fine when connected via USB to laptop.\n\nUpon closer inspection I found a burned out resistor in the circuit of the power supply, maybe this caused the bang?\n\nBIG update!\n\nI opened it up and flipped the board, and noticed that there was a big ol' blob of tin connected to one of the pins I connected my wires to. I am very sure that this blob shouldn't connect to that pin at all, hence shorting my board.\n\nIs this the cause?\n\n\n\n\n\nHere is a link to the webpage I bought it from: Anet® 12 V 20 A 240 W Power Supply Dual-input Centralized Power Monitoring For 3D Printer\n\nHere is how I wired it up at the PSU side:\n\n\n\nAt the RAMPS side:\n\n\n\nThis shows the internals of the PSU, it clearly shows burn marks:\n\n\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"Unless you know what you're doing, do not remove the covers from a PSU. The components can store a lethal charge long after power is removed, even if the fuse is blown.\n\nMy guess is something loose (now vapourised) in the PSU. Electronics have a tendancy of failing either quite soon after manufacture, or lasting reasonably well. This is described with the Bathtub Curve.\n\nLooking at the failure, there was a significant short circuit somewhere - quite likely within the PSU itself. This doesn't mean you can be sure that the RAMPS board survived, but it has a reasonable chance of not being harmed.\n\nThere is no significant chance of the PSU failing like that simply due to an excessive load in its output - unless it was overloaded for a significant period of time. Generally these PSUs will have some degree of overload protection even if they are not explicitly designed to survive an overload.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8216,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,wessel dijkstra,2.1782824847157594,3.8364869557858974,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Why did my power supply fuse blew out on my Anet A8?,\"So yesterday I got my power supply in the mail and I thought, let's check it out!\n\nI put all the wires in correctly (as shown in this YouTube video, Anet A8 power supply unit fuse blown, I just searched really quickly, this person has the same problem as me) and \"\"BANG\"\", it blew. \n\n\n\nLuckily the only thing broken on it is the fuse, for which I can get a new one, but my main question is .. why? why did it blow out? Did I wire it up wrong? The 12 V output goes to a RAMPS 1.4 board which is working correctly.\n\nIt worked the first time I plugged it in; the little green light went on. The second time a nice \"\"big bang\"\". When I tested it the first time, I didn't add the 12 V wires to the RAMPS board yet. When I did, the fuse of the PSU blew out.\n\nThe board is a RepRap RAMPS 1.4, which works fine when connected via USB to laptop.\n\nUpon closer inspection I found a burned out resistor in the circuit of the power supply, maybe this caused the bang?\n\nBIG update!\n\nI opened it up and flipped the board, and noticed that there was a big ol' blob of tin connected to one of the pins I connected my wires to. I am very sure that this blob shouldn't connect to that pin at all, hence shorting my board.\n\nIs this the cause?\n\n\n\n\n\nHere is a link to the webpage I bought it from: Anet® 12 V 20 A 240 W Power Supply Dual-input Centralized Power Monitoring For 3D Printer\n\nHere is how I wired it up at the PSU side:\n\n\n\nAt the RAMPS side:\n\n\n\nThis shows the internals of the PSU, it clearly shows burn marks:\n\n\n\",0scar,\"You need to closely look at how to connect to the output connectors. In this case it appears that you have wired it correctly according to the stamped in markings above the connectors. You have chosen not to connect the earth, this is strongly advised.\n\nDid you check if the power switch matches the voltage of your country? If you are in Europe the switch should be set to 230 V, not 115 V (which is used in America).\n\nE.g. for the following power supply you see such a switch on the side:\n\n\nIf a PSU is connected without load and works, and short circuits when externals are connected there are a few options:\n\n\nthere is a short in the connected printer board,\nthe load that the board takes is too large for the PSU,\nthe PSU cannot deliver the load,\nthe PSU was faulty to begin with.\n\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n8386,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,wessel dijkstra,1.726248027126092,3.372103450567224,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Why did my stepper motor controller chips burn?,\"I just installed a few of these chips on my RAMPS 1.4 board and tried to turn it on, and the lights on my RAMPS board lit up, which was normal. Then I saw a spark growing and I turned the power off. I removed the chips and they were burned as in the photos. Is this a fault of the board, or the chips?\n\n\n\nI had two more on it which were fine, at least, they did not seem to be not burned. Both chips seemed to burned at the same pins, which makes me think those are just trash chips, but I have no clue.\n\",markshancock,\"Without more information it is hard to be certain; but, the most likely cause is that the board was installed backwards.\n\nLooking at the photo, the damage on both boards seem to be centered around pin 20 and 21 of the driver IC. A schematic of a similar board shows these are both 5V inputs (DIR and *ENBL). These signals connect to the top and bottom pins of the left connector to the RAMPS.\n\nSince these are inputs, the most likely cause of a damage to these would be a high current over-voltage condition that caused the upper protection in the IC to conduct. This would require >5.5V and a lot of current. \n\nThe RAMPS board routes these signals to I/O pins on the ATMEGA processor - see RAMPS Schematic. These can't easily go above 5V without blowing out the ATMEGA and they are not generally high enough current to cause the damage you see.\n\nThe most likely high current and voltage would be the 12V motor supply line (VMM). This comes into the board on the top pin of the right RAMPS connector.\n\nAccidentally installing it 180 degrees (which is super easy to do since the connector is not keyed) would connect the 12V VMM to IC pin 20 instead and you would likely see the same burn mark you see on your board.\n\nA better board design would have been to key the connectors by using two sizes and/or cutting a pin so it couldn't get plugged in backwards - but they didn't.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8413,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,wessel dijkstra,1.0891412423578797,2.589815693999396,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Stepper does not move smoothly,\"I have a problem with the y movement of my machine.\n\nWhen i select y+1 in repetier, it moves, but with a very strange noise.\n\nI have a video to show the problem here\n\nI have:\n\nSet the voltage of the stepper drivers to 0.6V\n\nSet the voltage of the power supply to 12V\n\nTightened the belts (but not too tight!)\n\nDoes anyone know what this is? Is it a problem with my belts or are my stepper motors too weak?\n\",wessel dijkstra,\"Fixed. One of the two was movign in the wrong direction. Problem solved!\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8222,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Toni Duspara,2.1782824847157594,4.458525285702728,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Homing the 3D printer,\"I have just built my first 3D printer, and I am having some problems. It is a Cartesian based 3D printer, using Marlin firmware and Pronterface software. My problem is homing the 3D printer. I do not have a probe to calibrate the z offset but I have all 6 endstops. The problem is that the \"\"ZMIN\"\" endstop isn't precise enough and my hotend is always either too far from or too close to the heatbed. Is there a way to manually set the home position, so when I start the printer, It just starts printing and it doesn't have to home again; Or maybe some other way to set the correct offset. It would also be helpful if I could use just the \"\"ZMAX\"\" plug, and then manually set the minimum Z position using a piece of paper.\n\",0scar,\"It is possible to \"\"home a printer\"\" without having endstops, technically, you don't require endstops, but it makes your job a lot easier if you want to print something!\n\nBasically, when you don't have endstops or limit switches, you need to define where the head of the printer is located. E.g. you can set the nozzle at [0, 0, 0] (origin in [x, y, z]) and add the command G92 to your print G-code file that it is at that position using G92 X0 Y0 Z0 (or any other location you use, e.g. you could engineer a parking position and refer to that position instead, note that you also need to write the movement commands to get out of that location safely). Don't forget to remove the homing command from your start code in your slicer, replace G28 with the G92 command with appropriate X, Y and Z values.\n\nRegarding the inaccurate repetitive accuracy of your Z min endstop, it might be worth to find out why this is causing such a spread in triggering, maybe you need to invest in some new endstop switches or look more closely to the heated bed attachment to the frame.\n\nUsing Z max as a reference point is e.g. used by Ultimaker machines. The heated platform lowers to Z max; the printer knows from calibration and geometry how far it needs to rise to get to Z=0.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n8222,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Toni Duspara,2.1782824847157594,4.458525285702728,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Homing the 3D printer,\"I have just built my first 3D printer, and I am having some problems. It is a Cartesian based 3D printer, using Marlin firmware and Pronterface software. My problem is homing the 3D printer. I do not have a probe to calibrate the z offset but I have all 6 endstops. The problem is that the \"\"ZMIN\"\" endstop isn't precise enough and my hotend is always either too far from or too close to the heatbed. Is there a way to manually set the home position, so when I start the printer, It just starts printing and it doesn't have to home again; Or maybe some other way to set the correct offset. It would also be helpful if I could use just the \"\"ZMAX\"\" plug, and then manually set the minimum Z position using a piece of paper.\n\",silver,\"You can reconfigure marlin to use the MAXZ endstop instead of MINZ in Configuration.h, and then reflash it to your printer.\n\nhttps://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h#L877\n\nNow this is highly unusual, as most printers only have MIN endstops. If you post a pic of your faulty MINZ endstop, we can probably figure out how you could fix it. Zipties come to mind as a likely solution.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8227,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Marco,1.0891412423578797,3.0484567768387603,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Boolean operation on two objects in Blender,\"I'm trying to draw a strange cup, with a kind of empty handle (actually, it's not a cup, but it looks like one).\n\nI need to print this object with a 3D printer, so I exported the model to 3D printing software (Simplify3D) to obtain relative G-code for the printer.\n\nI can correctly export (in .stl) both parts separately (cup [a] and handle [b]), and obtain a good G-code. But when I try to match the two parts with a boolean operation, the result becomes chaotic.\n\nI've added a (G-code) picture to show how the slicer creates strange triangles inside the cup; I really can't understand how to prevent it.\n\nI'm designing the print using the Blender 3D software modelling tool.\n\n\n\nI've uploaded my file for reference.\n\nThe file has the bezier curves from witch I do screws in the origin. the result that I'm trying to export in stl is on the side.\nNote: to have correct dimensions, I scale the model after 90° rotation on x-axis (base on bottom for printing), I then change the scale to 1:10 (bigger model), before exporting as stl.\n\nI would obtain a sort of vase with an empty handle (the cylinder should work as an hole).\n\nhere what I do:\n\n\nI convert curves to meshes\nI screw the cup (360° y-axis)\nI screw the handle (60° after rotation -30° on y-axis)\nI solidify the handle\nI add 2 operations to cup, (a) solidify, (b) boolean\nto match the two solid I adjust the solidify (a) looking to boolean result of an intersection (cup to handle).\nwhen I have the right overlapping I apply (a) solidify and then (b) union-boolean (cup to handle).\nat the end I apply a difference-boolean modificator to cup/handle with cone, to create the hole.\n\n\nI hope someone should explain me what I am doing wrong. I have made a somewhat simpler version here.\n\",Trish,\"Check your settings in the slicer software you use: if you look at the sliced print carefully, you see only one line in each layer that crosses the inner section. The lines are also yellow, not green. This strongly hints that these are movement commands, not actual print commands.\n\nOn the other hand, you might want to carefully check in blender: at times, the normals in places get swapped inside out and then mess up the whole geometry without being visible in blender. Recalculate Normals can fix that at times, other times choose the messed up vertices and flip normals.\n\nMake sure not to include voids in the model.\n\nThe model in question\n\nLooking at the model, I also spotted that there was a lingering solidify modifier. Applying that resulted in this:\n\n\n\nThis is a particularly bad thing. Fixing is easy though: remove the offending inner vertices. \n\n\n\nAtop that, the center points are a clustered mess of vertices - surely you want to merge them into just two vertices.\n\nApplying the Boolean modifier now created a solid shell.\n\n\n\nBefore exporting, all other items had to be removed (deleted), then the export gives this nice model:\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8231,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Raul Rea,1.726248027126092,3.372103450567224,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Connecting Anet 8 2004 display with Ramps 1.4 to Aux2 can't seem to figure it out,\"I've heard about switching out some connectors, but can't seem to figure out which ones and can't seem to find a diagram out there that is much help. Does anyone know which connectors I should switch to achieve this?\n\",0scar,\"This answer clearly describes that you need to switch pins 1 and 2. It also describes that the MKS board is similar to a RAMPS board. \n\nFirst thing to look for is the layout of the AUX2 header:\n\n\n\nThe pin layout reveals that pin 1 is VCC and pin 2 is GND. These need to be switched to be able to connect the display on AUX2.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8235,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Raven Valentijn,1.726248027126092,3.241349471920412,0.0,2.011441651225199,-1.1827783713261073,-1.3276579603156529,Wrong Z-Axis movement in G-Code,\"Alright so I bought a broken UP mini. There was only a defect on the board so I connected the components to a Duet 2 Wifi.\nEverything is fully operational and I can manually move all axes correctly using the interface as well as homing them.\n\nThe problem is that when I try to slice a model (I am using Slic3r) and upload the G-Code the bed will be raised instead of lowered during printing.\n\nHow do I change it so the direction of the Z-Axis goes correctly?\n\nAdditional information:\n\n\nThe Z endstop is at the bottom\nWhen homed the Z coordinate is on 0 mm \nWhen placing the bed under the extruder the Z coordinate is 170 mm\n\n\",silver,\"You could put the z endstop at the top, and flip the motor connector to make it move the other direction. This should make it home to the top near the nozzle, and then move downward during the print.\n\nOtherwise, you'll have to tweak the firmware configuration and reflash.\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8241,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sam,2.528907649931287,4.304542232854798,0.0,5.199501240805782,1.1827783713261073,1.1258498433107285,Can a single line of Gcode have variable extrusion rate?,\"Fairly long winded, but hopefully makes sense;\n\nI understand that G-code is executed line-by-line, and in the main printing phase each instruction is effectively go to location XY (assuming staying within the layer) at a set speed with a set extrusion amount (not rate, as far as I can tell). \n\nImagine you were printing a single road width, say 10 mm long. If the single instruction says to move that 10 mm at a set speed and extrude 10mm of material (which is, I guess, not 10mm of filament), with infinite acceleration and deceleration of the nozzle and extruder gears, then a linear amount of material would be extruded per unit length along the 10 mm. However, given that there is some acceleration and deceleration, that extrusion must be non-linear. \n\nMy questions are as follows;\n- Is it possible to counteract this within a single line of Gcode by having a variable extrusion rate? \n- Can the machine do so regardless of the instructions given to it? \n- Is this effect embraced somehow? \n- Does the need to accelerate both the nozzle position and filament effectively cancel out? \n-Would/could you aim instead to split a single straight line of filament into multiple lines of G-code, some extruding (say in the middle), and some not (say at each end)?\n\",user77232,\"Let's see...\n\n\n Is it possible to counteract this within a single line of Gcode by having a variable extrusion rate?\n\n\nNo, it cannot. G Code executes line by line. If you have a line : G1 X10 F100 F200 F300\nsome parseres will accept the first (F100), some will only accept the last (F300)\n\n\n Can the machine do so regardless of the instructions given to it? \n\n\nIf you program a custom G code parser to do so, you still couldn't because there is no time scale to which you would want the effect to apply. To do this you would have to introduce a new letter to your parser (let's call it K), which you could use to instruct the machine to scale the extrusion accordingly (e.g. G1 X10 F100 K0.24). The machine would then know to scale the F parameter by 0.24 over the course of the movement.\n\n\n Is this effect embraced somehow? \n\n\nUhm... no?\n\n\n Does the need to accelerate both the nozzle position and filament effectively cancel out? \n\n\nCancel out how? The filament stepper as well as the gantry steppers are step synchronized so that they operate at the correct feedrate, at all times. \n\n\n Would/could you aim instead to split a single straight line of\n filament into multiple lines of G-code, some extruding (say in the\n middle), and some not (say at each end)?\n\n\nAbsolutely not. Each line of gcode has to be completed by the machine before any other line can be considered. You can't have one motion governed by multiple lines of g-code, because there will be not way to control the timing of the execution of the lines.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8241,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sam,2.528907649931287,4.304542232854798,0.0,5.199501240805782,1.1827783713261073,1.1258498433107285,Can a single line of Gcode have variable extrusion rate?,\"Fairly long winded, but hopefully makes sense;\n\nI understand that G-code is executed line-by-line, and in the main printing phase each instruction is effectively go to location XY (assuming staying within the layer) at a set speed with a set extrusion amount (not rate, as far as I can tell). \n\nImagine you were printing a single road width, say 10 mm long. If the single instruction says to move that 10 mm at a set speed and extrude 10mm of material (which is, I guess, not 10mm of filament), with infinite acceleration and deceleration of the nozzle and extruder gears, then a linear amount of material would be extruded per unit length along the 10 mm. However, given that there is some acceleration and deceleration, that extrusion must be non-linear. \n\nMy questions are as follows;\n- Is it possible to counteract this within a single line of Gcode by having a variable extrusion rate? \n- Can the machine do so regardless of the instructions given to it? \n- Is this effect embraced somehow? \n- Does the need to accelerate both the nozzle position and filament effectively cancel out? \n-Would/could you aim instead to split a single straight line of filament into multiple lines of G-code, some extruding (say in the middle), and some not (say at each end)?\n\",Lux Claridge,\"While Trish directly answers the G-Code part of your question, my answer offers an alternative if you use Marlin. RepRap has a similar feature called pressure advance, but this answer is focusing on Marlin's feature.\n\nAccording to Marlin:\n\n\n Under default conditions, extruder axis movement is treated in the same way as the XYZ linear axes. The extruder motor moves in linear proportion to all the other motors, maintaining exactly the same acceleration profile and start/stop points. But an extruder is not a linear system, so this approach leads, most obviously, to extra material being extruded at the end of each linear movement.\n\n\nIn short, corners result in being rounded instead of sharp due to the constant extrusion when laying down a line. One can mitigate this by changing the flow, though this might affect straight lines in other parts of the print, namely under extruding them. Marlin's answer to this is linear advance.\n\nWith linear advance, the extrusion rate changes as the print head speed changes. When the print head moves faster, more plastic has to be pushed out to lay a consistent line and as soon as the head slows down, the extrusion rate slows down to compensate. The print should then have a consistent line. This is all done using a new factor called k. From Marlin:\n\n\n K is now a meaningful value with the unit [mm of filament compression needed per 1mm/s extrusion speed] or [mm/mm/s].\n\n\nOne can determine the k value for their printer using Marlin's k calibration tool which prints out multiple straight lines and instructs the printer to print the start of each line slowly, then print fast, and end the line slow again. Each line has a different k value and the user chooses the k value from the line that is most consistent. \n\nSome caveats\n\nBowden style extruders require larger k values which, even then, linear advancing may not work. This is due to the bowden tube itself and the material between the extruder motor and the hot end. This is along the same issue as trying to print flexible plastics with a bowden extruder. While linear advance is better suited for direct drives, it's not impossible to use it on a bowden.\n\nSetting up linear advance requires an extra set of tuning. While this primarily means tuning the k value, print speeds may need adjusting (potentially allowing for faster speeds even).\n\nOlder linear advance version, at least on Marlin, had the extruder motor a lot more active. Some people report that printing is noticeably noisier. This feature might also add an extra load to the CPU. These issues should not be a problem anymore, as of v1.5, but YMMV.\n\nOne needs to change the firmware/G-Code so that each print can use linear advance. If the printer is only using one material the firmware can be changed. However, if multiple materials will be used within the printer's lifetime, the G-Code will have to include the following command at the end of the start script ( more found here). This k value will be different for each material. An example of the command is as follows:\n\nM900 K75 ; Set k-factor for PLA\n\n\nThe link also recommends setting the k factor value to 0 when turning the feature on in the firmware. This essentially disables the hard-coded value in the firmware.\n\nFinally, slicer settings like pressure advance, Coast at end, extra restart length after retract should be disabled when using linear advance as they do a similar operation. On the flip side, these settings may work for your printer so you may not need to even use linear advance.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8250,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nate4436271,1.726248027126092,3.5981135574086953,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Monoprice Maker Select v2 stops extruding after about 200-300 mm,\"I've done a fair bit of looking around for an answer and have yet been unable to find one.\n\nSo here is my problem, after about 200-300 mm of extrusion, the PLA stops coming through the nozzle. When I pull the PLA out it looks like this. There are teeth marks going up the PLA and end with a small divot. The head of the PLA is slightly thicker than the rest of the PLA; approximately 1.9 mm.\n\n\n\nI first noticed this when I thought that only the bottom layer was being printed. I moved to printing a small bullet and I got about halfway through the print before it stopped extruding. \n\nNext I raised the Z position to about 100 mm to give me some room to work and I manually moved the PLA through the extruder with the dial. No problems until I hit the 200 mm mark or so. I've done this test 4 times now and failed at the approximate locations: 208 mm, 280 mm, 250 mm, and 325 mm.\n\nSettings:\n\n\nNozzle: 200 °C \nBed: 60 °C\nLayer Height: 0.15 mm\n\n\nOther things I have tried with seemingly no effect:\n\n\nTurning off/on print cooling\nreducing retraction to 2 mm from 6 mm \nyelling out in frustration\nreformatting the SD card (because who knows?)\nbrand new filament, older filament, middle aged filament\n\n\",kolosy,\"Looking at the tread pattern on the filament, I think it's getting stuck. Note that the teeth marks get closer together as you go up the fillament, and the last one is a big divot, that looks like the gear trying to grab at it, and being unable to move it.\n\nAre you seeing any drops in nozzle temp? I had a cooling fan kick in and drop temps low enough to prevent extrusion before.\n\nEdit\n\nFrom the discussion in the notes, heat creep was identified as a possible culprit, and seems most likely.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n8263,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jacob White,1.0891412423578797,4.63691070807405,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,Ender 3 print is skipping and dragging up base print lines,\"\n\nI have only been able to get my prints this far. They just can’t stop skipping pulling material up towards the nozzle which then melts pulls of another random bit. At first I thought it was motor skipping, so I strengthened the spring, but even after that and calibrating the bed, I couldn’t figure out exactly how to fix this issue. Hopefully someone has some idea what is wrong.\n\",Jacob White,\"So, contrary to what people were saying, my problem came from my spring that controlled filament flow. There was too much tension and it caused motor skipping. I did get rid of the overlap with the blue tape, but otherwise I had to clamp down my spring and that fixed the issue.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n8263,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jacob White,1.0891412423578797,4.63691070807405,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.104288080884247,Ender 3 print is skipping and dragging up base print lines,\"\n\nI have only been able to get my prints this far. They just can’t stop skipping pulling material up towards the nozzle which then melts pulls of another random bit. At first I thought it was motor skipping, so I strengthened the spring, but even after that and calibrating the bed, I couldn’t figure out exactly how to fix this issue. Hopefully someone has some idea what is wrong.\n\",aaron elsey,\"I would get rid of the blue tape and go with glass and hairspray. Glass gives you more of a flat surface. You are printing with the aluminum build plate which over time c\nan warp. The glass with give you a much flatter and level surface to print om. Blue Tape is actually not a great surface to print on. Hairspray using a chemical compound that actually is related to a PLA makeup. This compound in Aquanet Hairspray will bond to the PLA and release when cold. Using both the glass and hairspray will give you and even build plate and a clean smooth surface that it will stick to better than blue tape. \n\",0.0,0.0\n8268,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bill in Kansas City,2.1782824847157594,3.6755458889710138,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Main board heated bed connectors aren't powering up,\"Flsun 3D Cube; Marlin 1.1.1; main board: Makerbase MKS Gen_L V1.0; running from either Repetier or OctoPrint.\n\nI was recently obliged to replace the main board when it stopped powering the heated bed. I got the new main board - same make, version, etc - got everything setup just as it was before, but the bed still doesn't heat. Multimeter shows zero across the board's heat bed contacts, whether using G-code from the terminal (in both Repetier and Octoprint), G-code in the print file, or the control panel on the front of the printer. The thermistor works: if I shine a heat lamp on the bed, it registers the temp change.\n\nBad board? Something in the Merlin config I missed? Is the board smart enough to not power it on if the bed heater itself is bad?\n\",0scar,\"Considering:\n\n\n Multimeter shows zero across the board's heat bed contacts\n\n\nthis implies that \n\n\nIf you measured resistance, the heated bed has no resistance. Basically this implies that the bed has a short. This might be the reason why it is not working. If you would power it as such you create a short. Instead of replacing the board, you need to replace the heated bed. Typical values for a heated bed of about 200 x 200 mm are in the order of 1.2 Ω (measurements between 0.9 and 1.5 Ω are reasonable to be expected).\nIf you measured voltage, the heated bed does not receive power for heating, or the power does not reach the bed (not turned on or broken wire?). It would then be wise to measure the resistance (of the bed and the wires). If the resistance is in the order of about 1.2 Ω (see above) for the bed, you could try to connect the heated bed directly to the PSU to see if it gets warm, if so, please disconnect immediately to prevent damage. From this experiment you can find whether the heated bed is broken (or the cables), or that the board is not functioning correctly, this is, however, strange as you tried 2 boards. A possible suspect could be the MOSFET that schedules the powering of the heated bed if you use an external MOSFET board that it.\nIf you measured current, then you found out that no power is delivered to the board, but you also might have broken your board in the process, as measuring current is a (close to) 0 Ω connection and has to be done in line of a circuit.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8268,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bill in Kansas City,2.1782824847157594,3.6755458889710138,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Main board heated bed connectors aren't powering up,\"Flsun 3D Cube; Marlin 1.1.1; main board: Makerbase MKS Gen_L V1.0; running from either Repetier or OctoPrint.\n\nI was recently obliged to replace the main board when it stopped powering the heated bed. I got the new main board - same make, version, etc - got everything setup just as it was before, but the bed still doesn't heat. Multimeter shows zero across the board's heat bed contacts, whether using G-code from the terminal (in both Repetier and Octoprint), G-code in the print file, or the control panel on the front of the printer. The thermistor works: if I shine a heat lamp on the bed, it registers the temp change.\n\nBad board? Something in the Merlin config I missed? Is the board smart enough to not power it on if the bed heater itself is bad?\n\",yellow,\"Since the bed was warm when you connected to 12 V that means the bed and the wiring are good. It sounds like your multimeter is not too accurate, with a reading of 0.5 Ω (or you measured accidentally some other circuit), but no worries. \n\nSince both boards do not power the bed, it seems like it could be a firmware setting. To help with that, a look at your config file, and possibly the pins_ramps.h file can help.\n\nAs a first check, your mks_gen_L.h file should look like this;\n\n #if HOTENDS > 2 || E_STEPPERS > 2\n #error \"\"MKS GEN L supports up to 2 hotends / E-steppers. Comment out this line to continue.\"\"\n#endif\n\n#define BOARD_NAME \"\"MKS GEN L\"\"\n\n//\n// Heaters / Fans\n//\n// Power outputs EFBF or EFBE\n#define MOSFET_D_PIN 7\n\n//\n// CS Pins wired to avoid conflict with the LCD\n// See https://www.thingiverse.com/asset:66604\n//\n\n#ifndef X_CS_PIN\n #define X_CS_PIN 59\n#endif\n\n#ifndef Y_CS_PIN\n #define Y_CS_PIN 63\n#endif\n\n#include \"\"pins_RAMPS.h\"\"\n\n\nNow all you need to confirm is that your bed is hooked to D7.\n\",0.0,0.0\n8293,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bill in Kansas City,1.726248027126092,3.264951048124368,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"mjpg_streamer, Octopi, Kubuntu\",\"Running my Flsun 3D Cube from a Kubuntu PC using Octopi, and trying to get my webcam to work with it. I've followed the instructions on Github for mjpg_streamer to the letter. Everything I've read says, \"\"Sure! The Raspberry PI directions will work with Linux, you bet!\"\" but they don't, at least, not for me, a beginning level Linux user.\n\nI know that my webcam works with Kubuntu since I can load it and view it using VLC, but I've been unable to figure out how to get Octopi to read the stream from VLC (the documentation could use some improvement) or even confirm if the stream works.\n\nBack to mjpg_streamer: when I issue the command \n\nexport LD_LIBRARY_PATH=. ./mjpg_streamer -o \"\"output_http.so -w ./www\"\" -i \"\"input_raspicam.so\"\"\n\n\nI get \n\nbash: export: 'mjpg_streamer': not a valid identifier\nbash: export: '-o:' not a valid identifier\nbash: export: 'output_http.so -w ./www': not a valid identifier\nbash: export: '-i': not a valid identifier\nbash: export: 'input_raspicam.so': not a valid identifier\n\n\nI don't know what I don't know, and I don't know how to proceed. The goal is to view my webcam in Octopi/Octolapse on a Kubuntu PC. (Windows with Yawcam, no brainer; Linux, not so much.)\n\",Bill in Kansas City,\"Going to post the answer here for posterity and for those, like me, trying to cope with Linux after making a career in Windows.\n\nI'm running Kubuntu 18 because I didn't want to have to buy an operating system or install a bootleg copy of Windows. The most important thing for a Windows user to know is that the readme.md file is important. Think of it as a .chm file, or a series of linked help documents. What you want to know is THERE, not on the github page. \n\nUsing the following command in the mjpg-streamer-experimental directory got me where I needed to go.\n\nmjpg_streamer -i 'input_uvc.so -d /dev/video0 -r SVGA -f 30' -o 'output_http.so'\n\n\ne.g. webcam, 800x600, 30fps to http (port 8080 is the default) The MD files break it down. I also found two web pages very useful: \n\nhttp://skillfulness.blogspot.com/2010/03/mjpg-streamer-documentation.html\nhttps://wiki.ubuntuusers.de/MJPG-Streamer/\n\nIn OctoPrint the streaming setting is then:\n\nhttp://127.0.0.1:8080/?action=stream\n\n\nIn my case, I use the network IP rather than local host so I can monitor the print from my upstairs PC. For snapshots: \n\nhttp://127.0.0.1:8080/?action=snapshot\n\n\nI'll admit that Octolapse doesn't work for me yet because I'm still trying to work out ffmpeg, but that's another issue. EDIT: got that done, too. Useful command: \n\nwhereis ffmpeg\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n8288,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,John,1.726248027126092,4.21079418190491,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Extrusion test cube resulted in one wall being thicker,\"I calibrated my extruder according to the mattshub tutorial and printed the extruder calibration test cube with 2 perimeters of 0.4 mm. So the walls should all be 0.8mm thick but only 3 are close to 0.8mm and one is about 0.93 mm thick. The pictures are one turn, walls following each other are side by side:\n\n\n\n\n\n\nUpdate 1\n\nI printed a solid, smooth calibration cube with 1 Perimeter of 0.45 mm, 0 top/bottom layers and 0 % infill, as suggested and got 0.56 mm, \n0.65 mm, 0.79 mm and 0.54 mm\n\n\n\nI believe that the thickest side is the one where the layer ends and retraction is done in the corner before layer change. Maybe retraction settings? \n\nUpdate 2\n\nAfter setting the Extrusion Multiplier to 70%, I got wall thicknesses of 0.89 mm, \n0.86 mm, 0.81 mm and 0.96 mm on a 2 Perimeter print of the same object.\n\nUpdate 3\n\nFudging with the steps per millimeter changed them from 428 to 306. The resulting one perimeter test was 0.59 mm, 0.46 mm, 0.42 mm and 0.39 mm, pretty much spot on safe for one wall being fat and one thin... \n\nI print at 215 °C with 5 mm retraction to increase strength and get stringing in check.\n\",Trish,\"Why not that test print?\n\nYou don't want a print constraining your walls to 0.8 mm, since you don't want to print with 1 nozzle diameter for better print quality. Atop that, slicing can induce errors that increase the thickness of walls without us noticing it in the slicer view. Two sources of error (once for each wall)\nmeans an additional 10% error, which would bring the wall as you got perfectly into the expected area: $0.8\\text{ mm}\\times 1,1\\times 1,1=0.968\\text{ mm}$\n\nLet's Troubleshoot!\n\nYou might not have calibrated the extrusion multiplier correctly, or the steps/mm might be off, or other print settings shoot us way off. Let's make sure to find the source.\n\nFilament extrusion multiplier\n\n\nuse a solid cube as a base, for example, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:38108\nset line width to 0.45 mm to counteract errors from die swell and get a better print result in general1 \n\n\n$d_\\text{line width}=0.45\\text{ mm}$\n\nset the number of walls/perimeters to 1\n\n\n$p=1$\n\nset infill to 0%\nset top layers to 0\nset the extrusion multiplier to 100 %\nprint the cube (or half of it, Z-height does not matter too much) with no top and infill and 1 perimeter\nre-measure the walls\n\n\nDone that? Math time to calculate the correct multiplier for the filament! The average wall is easy:$$d_\\text {average}={\\frac{\\sum_{i=1}^4 d_i}{4}}$$ $$\\frac{d_\\text{line width}\\times p}{d_\\text {average}}=\\text{Extrusion multiplier}$$\nRemember, that the result is not in % but a float point number! 1 is 100%. So you fill in that value times 100 into the extrusion multiplier.\n\nAfter this, repeat the whole process with 2 perimeters.\n\n1 - further reading: Why is it conventional to set line width > nozzle diameter? & Slicer line width vs. extrusion multiplier for layer adhesion?\n\n\nSteps/mm\n\nMake sure to test the extruder against the heated extruder, then repeat the calibration as your tutorial explained. \n\nFor some tests, let's fudge to some degree: Trying a filament dependant value of steps per millimeter can help to try to find other sources of errors easier - it makes them at times more pronounced. So we just multiply our steps/mm with the extrusion multiplier that we calculate the way outlined below. For 428 steps/mm and the numbers from Update 3, this gives about 306 steps/mm. This is not a proper calibration, but a means for troubleshooting. After fudging with the parameters reset the extrusion multiplier to 100%, we just want to check what influences our thickness.\n\nOther print settings\n\n\n215 °C is way hot. Even if it can increase print strength in solid prints, it is usually better to print at 200 °C and less.\nReduce retraction, possibly to 4 mm or maybe even 3 mm.\n\n\nLower temperature and less retraction should get prints more consistent, as pressure changes in the nozzle are more consistent. Remember, we are playing with the settings here.\n\nAnd now Properly\n\nBack to Calibration!\n\nAfter all the fudging and probably making everything worse, we got to make sure to properly calibrate, those settings will be WAY OFF, in fact, we might go back to the original steps/mm or higher:\n\n\nNote the current steps/mm as $s$. \nMark the 150mm from the extruder intake. remember if you marked on the close or far side... or simply cut the filament as exact as you can. \nHeat the hotend \nsend a G1 E100 F100 \nMeasure the distance to the extruder intake afterwards as $d$ to get the actual extruded filament $e$. Make sure to measure the same side of the marking!\n$(150-d)=e$ \n$\\frac{s\\times 100}{e}=s^*$ as the corrected steps/mm\nsend M92 E###.## with ###.## taking the $s^*$\nsend M500 to store the value to the EEPROM\n\n\nExtrusion/Flow Calibration\n\nNow, go back to print a single filament extrusion multiplier calibration, as above. It should be somewhat close(er) to 100% now.\n\nSlicer Fault?\n\nNote that not all Slicers are equal: some slicers are better and more consistent in the results than others with the stock settings, and even with the same settings results may varry. For example the line width for the same settings with Simplify3D and Cura or Slic3r Prusa Edition can differ. The reasons for this are hard to find exactly, but they are most likely rooted in the different slicing processes and optimisation. Sometimes it is some setting that might be overlooked that results in line width variations.\n\nThe Slicer world changed a lot betwene 2015 and 2019, and even if you got fed up with one slicer years ago, now it might be worth a shot to test it again. See if you might get better results with other slicers, as for whatever reason, your slicer might cause the issiues, whih allows you to hunt down setting dependant items.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n8296,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user9985211,1.726248027126092,5.037962538797777,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,PETG Sticking to Nozzle,\"For a while now, my AmazonBasics PETG filament has been working like a charm. Now, it is balling up on my nozzle. I've tried slowing it down, re-leveling the bed, etc. I don't want to go through the hassle of replacing my nozzle with a Micro-Swiss all metal 0.4 mm nozzle. I've tried the other extruder which I know works with PLA, but same results. I'm using a Flashforge Creator Pro(2016).\n\",aaron elsey,\"PETG does this. PETG is like glue when soft this is why when you level the bed you have to add an additional 0.1 mm distance for PETG. PETG should not be as close as PLA, but futher away. It will stick to the hotend so preferably change the hotend from brass to a nickle plated nozzle (e.g. Micro Swiss, PETG does not stick to that nozzle at all).\n\",0.0,0.0\n8297,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,der-andyman,2.1782824847157594,3.4647280758287264,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"Hooking up an optocoupler in a 24V Machine, is a 2 kOhm resistor sufficient?\",\"I am going to buy an inductive probe for my Creality Ender 3 to enable ABL (Automatic Bed Leveling). And now, I have one last question left on my mind:\n\nI am going to buy a Vishay Optokoppler Phototransistor SFH610A-1 DIP-4 Transistor DC.\n\nIs it sufficient to put a 2 - 2.2 kΩ resistor between the input of the octocouplers LED side and the 24 V Output of the probe, to lower the current and voltage enough to work with the octocoupler? Or do I need something else?\n\nOn the transistor side, I will simply attach the 2 wire Z-endstop cable, +5 V on Collector and GND on Emitter.\n\",0scar,\"TL;DR\n\nYes, a 2 kΩ resistor is sufficient to limit the current to about 12 mA through the optocoupler. With a maximum current specification of 60 mA you require at least 400 Ω; any resistor in between the values should be suitable for this optocoupler component when used at 24 V. More information is found below.\n\n\n\nHaving a glass bed and using an inductive probe may not work optimally. In such cases a 3D touch sensor is a very good alternative. For inductive sensors, remember that these sensors optimally detect steel, aluminium is harder to detect (about 60 % less than iron; a glass sheet in between the bed and the sensor requires you to acquire a sensor with a large detection range, e.g. 8 mm or more. To optimize the detection distance such sensors need to be powered to the maximum voltage they can handle (usually 36 V) or the highest voltage you have available (e.g. power supply 12 or 24 V). To protect the board, that is only allowed to receive up to 5 V, an optocoupler is an excellent way to guarantee the separation of voltage levels. \n\nConsidering your questions, it is fair to assume you are not an experienced electronics tinkerer, purchasing an optocoupler module is the best alternative, you just screw the wires into the respective input screw terminals as shown in this answer.\n\nAs the optocoupler separates two circuits, you can safely use 24 V on the one side and the 5 V on the other side, you do not need an additional resistor when you use a module board. If you plan to buy separate components to build your own circuit, you need to look at the maximum current that the optocoupler can handle on the input side (that will be 24 V). From the documentation from the optocoupler one reads that it is limited to 60 mA. A maximum current would therefore require a resistor of:\n\n$$ R=\\frac{U}{I}=\\frac{24}{60\\times10^{-3}}=400\\ \\Omega $$\n\nMy 12 V optocoupler module uses a 1 kΩ resistor implying a 12 mA current. In your case allowing 12 mA of current yields a 2 kΩ resistor.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n8301,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hermann Gebhard,1.0891412423578797,3.612224941552368,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,OpenSCAD 2018 Command line,\"First, I'm using Linux Mint 18.3 (Sylvia). Until now, I've been using OpenSCAD with the GUI and never experienced issues. Now I try to start OpenSCAD from the command line, but it always opens an empty file, even if a file with the specified name exists. \n\nSince I have a rather big script, I'd like to generate the STL's via the CLI. Due to this error, I can not even do any tests for parameter passing.\n\nWhat I'd like to do is to issue a command (flom the command line or in a shell script) that says \"\"Set objectID to 1, render and export the result to stl\"\".\n\nHere is my M(N)WE:\n\n// test.scad\n\nobjectID = 2;\n\n\nif (objectID == 1) \ndifference(){ \n cylinder(d=20, h=50, center=true); \n cylinder(d=16, h=50.2, center=true); \n}\n\nelse if (objectID == 2) \ndifference(){ \n cube(50, center=true); \n cube([35,35,70], center=true); \n}\n\n\nAny help will greatly be appreciated.\n\",Bouc,\"You can specify variable values from command line using:\n\n\nopenscad ...\\\n ... \\\n [ -D var=val [..] ] \\\n ... \\\n ... \\\n filename\n\n\nSee the OpenSCAD Manual.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n8301,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hermann Gebhard,1.0891412423578797,3.612224941552368,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,OpenSCAD 2018 Command line,\"First, I'm using Linux Mint 18.3 (Sylvia). Until now, I've been using OpenSCAD with the GUI and never experienced issues. Now I try to start OpenSCAD from the command line, but it always opens an empty file, even if a file with the specified name exists. \n\nSince I have a rather big script, I'd like to generate the STL's via the CLI. Due to this error, I can not even do any tests for parameter passing.\n\nWhat I'd like to do is to issue a command (flom the command line or in a shell script) that says \"\"Set objectID to 1, render and export the result to stl\"\".\n\nHere is my M(N)WE:\n\n// test.scad\n\nobjectID = 2;\n\n\nif (objectID == 1) \ndifference(){ \n cylinder(d=20, h=50, center=true); \n cylinder(d=16, h=50.2, center=true); \n}\n\nelse if (objectID == 2) \ndifference(){ \n cube(50, center=true); \n cube([35,35,70], center=true); \n}\n\n\nAny help will greatly be appreciated.\n\",Hermann Gebhard,\"I could finally solve the issue. Calling openscad from command line with parameters does NOT work with the AppImage I used. It works fine with a \"\"standard\"\" installation, though.\n\nThanks for your support.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n8306,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Seanosaurus Rex,1.0891412423578797,3.235319671822568,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,CubePro Duo Filament Cartridge Replacment Problem,\"So I just got this CubePro Duo and the guy we bought it off had 3 filament cartridges to go with it, two installed and one spare. The one spare was white PLA while the two installed were colored ABS so I wanted to try out the white PLA for printing so I followed all the instructions on the printer up to put the cartridge in and now its stuck on \"\"Material Validation\"\" step and just isn't doing anything. I followed everything as closely as I could and even started over again in case I did something wrong but it still won't \"\"validate\"\" the material?\n\nI have no idea what's going on and I would really appreciate some help, thanks in advance!\n\",Trish,\"The CubePro Duo is a discontinued 3d-systems printer. It uses their standard proprietary cartridges to prevent to use other filaments. In comparison to other printer filaments, their filaments range between 100 and 150$ per spool, which is listed as \"\"1 kg\"\" (though if that is with or without casing is not clear).\n\nFrom what I could find out about the cartridges, they should contain some kind of identification method to the printer. That it is stuck in Validation means, that it might not be able to read this. So let's try installing the cartridge again, following the handbook p.17!\n\n\nTake out the cartridge\nboot the machine\nwait for the machine to ask for filament\nremove the thumbscrew so the filament spool inside the cartridge can turn \npull out the 30 cm\ncut 5 cm off the end\ninsert the material into the Bowden tube of slot 1\npush the material till you get some goop coming out\nmount the cartridge into the slot, make sure it is clamped in tightly.\n\n\nThis should start the validation of the material, at which point you might get told that the colors don't match the print defined colors. Should the cartridge not be validated again but works on the ABS cartridges, the validation method might be broken on this cartridge. Should it not recognize either, the firmware or the detector might be broken.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8316,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Seanosaurus Rex,1.0891412423578797,4.016817001487613,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,CubePro Alternative Slicer,\"So, having bought this cube pro duo 3d printer a few days ago I have come to see how significantly limiting the default slicer software that comes with the machine is. For the prints that I am doing I've been looking around at alternative slicers however the cube pro has its own file format for builds and I'm not sure if any other software has the option to export those specifically and I also have no idea id the CubePro can read any files other than its own. On top of this whenever I download some other slicer it gets to the printer setup and there's a whole bunch of settings and parameters for the printer that I haven't been able to find, stuff like Firmware or Nozzle Diameter (Something that id expect to be easy to find).\n\nIn particularly a software called IdeaMaker is what I'm interested in since I've seen that you can make custom supports and that would be very useful for what I'm doing.\n\nDoes anyone know what I can do? Or is this a case of there's nothing I can do without some serious modification that I'd rather not do?\n\nAny help is appreciated thanks! :D\n\",0scar,\"As far as I understand, the CubePro 3D printers use their own format: .cubepro or .cubex.\n\nIt appears that a:\n\n\n .cubepro file format and found out that it only does a Blowfish ECB encryption of the .bfb file\n\n\nThis implies that you need to find a slicer that outputs .bfb tool path files (similar like G-code files) and a tool to encrypt the tool path file. The dubious CodeX tool and this alternative can do that for you.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n8313,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bea,3.267423727073639,3.8943561620740414,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.749318730431847,4.208576161768494,PLA wood filament: a special treatment?,\"PLA wood has a beautiful natural texture that I wanted to try. But when I used it in my second print, it clogged the nozzle (solved). I know this filament is composed of 70% PLA and 30% recycled pine wood fibers.\n\n\nAre there special indications for this kind of filament? \nShould I modify the temperature, or other settings? \n\n\",0scar,\"General\n\nAs woodfill material consists of about 70% PLA and 30% woodfibre, this means that in general you’ll need to print this material at PLA temperatures. While woodfill can be printed with standard 0.4 mm Nozzles like other PLA filaments, it is recommended to print with a larger diameter nozzle if it is possible to change nozzles easily on your 3D printer. Due to the larger nozzle diameter, a larger nozzle is less likely to clog considering the fibre content in the filament.\n\nGetting started printing\n\nIt is advised to start out with relatively large layer heights. Experiments have shown that woodfill performs better at 0.25-0.3 mm layer heights. Printing speeds should be held in the range 50-80 mm/s to ensure that the filament is traveling quite fast through the hot-zone of the extruder so the material can’t degrade within the hot-end because of long exposure to heat causing clogging. It is important for woodfill filaments to NOT let the filament stay standing still in the hot hotend for too long without extruding! \n\nNotice\n\nWhen starting a new print job, be sure that there is no woodfill filament in the hotend when the printer heats up, make sure that the filament is not in the hotend but a little above and make sure that your print G-code is prepared to prime the nozzle by adding a large enough skirt. It is also advised to keep a close watch on your printer and shutdown the 3D printer as soon as it goes wrong. Also change the end G-code to retract the woodfill from the hotend after a print.\n\nRetraction settings\n\nCompared to normal PLA, woodfill is a little more . So a little higher retraction speed and distance might be needed.\n\nBasic settings to start with\n\n\nTemperature: 190-205 °C\nLayerheight: 0.25 mm\nSpeed: 50 mm/s\nMinimal layertime: 8 s\nBowden type extruder\n\n\nRetraction speed: 40 mm/s\nRetraction distance: 5.5 mm\n\nDirect extruder\n\n\nRetraction speed: 25 mm/s\nRetraction distance: 1.3 mm\n\n\n\nFrom these settings you need to derive your own set of parameters for your specific printer and woodfill filament.\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n8318,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R.Powell,2.528907649931287,3.3621123551116554,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Sparkmaker SLA resin not curing,\"My model layers are printing much as I expect but the parts when removed from the plate are very soft and flexible and fail to harden any further in sunlight or UV lamplight. A tall or slender part will bend and distort under its own weight while printing. I am using LCD-T resin, I have increased time and reduced thicknesses and am now using 0.04 mm layers at 20 s and 255 brightness with no improvement.\nCan anyone suggest what I need to change?\n\",Adukra,\"It might be the case that the resin separated into layers in the tray. Try mixing the resin well in its container. \n\nI have also heard it can help to filter the resin prior to mixing.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8319,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,guidout,2.8153892694839717,4.132185323536744,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Infill failure when printing larger prints,\"I'm new to 3D printing an I just got a Creality Ender 3 and I think I'm getting some good results with small prints. However, now that I'm trying some bigger prints and I'm running into infill material excess. In the picture below I just printed a solid cube with 20 % infill and that's the result.\n\nI have been playing with settings a lot but I'm really running out of ideas.\nThese are the settings I have:\n\n\nmy bed, fortunately, came in pretty flat. My first layer is always very good indeed\nbed level method: paper method\nSlicer: Ultimaker Cura\nmaterial: PETG (Amazon basics)\nlayer height: 0.2 mm\nnozzle temperature: 230 °C, but also tried 220 °C and 210 °C\nbed temperature: 90 °C\nflow: 98 %, but also tried all the way to 90 %\ncooling: 0 %; the issue got a lot better with some additional cooling but I see a lot of people printing with no cooling \ninfill density: 20 %\nretraction: on, 5 mm\nretraction speed: 40 mm/s\nfirst layer print speed: 30 mm\nprint speed: 50 mm/s\nwall speed: 50 mm/s\ninfill speed: 50 mm/s\n\n\nLet me know if you want to know more settings, but I think these capture most of it.\n\nIf you guys have any suggestion on things I can try that would be of great help.\n\nUPDATE\n\nAfter playing with some settings these are the changes I think I'm settling on:\n\n\nFlow: 105 %\nCoasting: On, 75 %\nCooling: 60 %\nRetraction speed: 50 mm/s\n\n\nHere is a picture of when the infill issue starts:\n\n\nNEW ISSUE\n\nNow I'm getting a lot of stringing. Actually, I don't even know if it's stringing since I ran a test and came out basically perfect. Not a single stringing.\nI'm getting a lot of material that get dragged when the nozzle moves to one place to another and a lot of material accumulates on the nozzle and slowly drips everywhere during the print.\n \n\nHere is a video I made (not sure if it helps at all)\n\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlIB1WW8z84&feature=youtu.be\n\nI think I'm getting close to have good prints but I really can't figure this out.\n\",aaron elsey,\"I have seen this a lot with people I have helped out in the past. sally infill or the lack of and weakness in the print is due to an extrusion issue. it looks like you are under extruding. this is why you do not see this in smaller prints. In the larger print you are giving the print head enough time to screw up. You need to look at the tension of the filament on the extruder to make sure it isn't skipping. You also need to do a estep calibration on the extruder. I usually extrude 100mm of filament and measure it to see if it is short. if it is short then it is under extruding and doing a larger print and printing a larger area will reveal short comings in extruder infill. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8506,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,guidout,2.528907649931287,3.642950305588681,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Why does the print speed change at specific height? (Using Ultimaker Cura slicer),\"I'm trying to figure out why the print speed changes at one point in this model.\n\nI'm using Ultimaker Cura 3.6 and, as shown in the picture, I set the speed to be the same across the entire print. Is there a setting I'm missing?\n\n\n\n\n\n0scar is right. Changing the minimum time per layer to 1s (from 3s), makes the entire print print at the same speed, as per settings. However, it's probably a bad idea:\n\n\",0scar,\"Not being able to see the rest of the model (from the first image), if looks as if the light green sliced area displaying a lower speed for the top of the cylinder, is the only part that need to be printed to that height (now confirmed in the second image). This speed reduction is done by the slicer and is not specifically caused by Ultimaker Cura (other slicers do result in similar behavior). Note this is a good thing! Lets explain.\n\nFilament needs an amount of time to cool before the next layer is deposited onto the previous layer. When the layers get small (surface area) and there are no other layers the print head shifts to, the print process is slowed down to allow the filament to cool down; hence you see a decrease in print speed. If you deposit too fast, the last part of your print will become too hot and will deform.\n\nA print parameter that influences the behavior is the Minimal Layer Time parameter in Ultimaker Cura, please read the hint information of this parameter:\n\n\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n8323,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Rodion Nekhaev,1.0891412423578797,2.392932446014159,0.0,2.011441651225199,-1.1827783713261073,-1.3276579603156529,RF100 Settings after reinstalling firmware,\"I have an RF100 v.1 printer with stock software (again) onboard.\n\nAfter my attempt of changing firmware, the X-axis motor decided to stray printhead away out of the borders of the printer and somehow motor wires broke out of the adapter. \nI fixed the wires and reverted to stock firmware, though now whenever I auto-home or press \"\"Home\"\" button on Ultimaker Cura, printhead goes wild top and left reaching borders and starts buzzing like crazy.\n\ncurrent condition:\n\n\nHead is TOP LEFT with X=100 and Y=100 on the table being under head Z=0;\nscreenshot\n\n\nEven with these beautiful tiny settings, I cannot print anything because printhead goes too far TOP RIGHT by itself.\nIdeas?\n\",Rodion Nekhaev,\"Everything was fixed by thorough googling and flipping the whole wire-set of the motor. It started to twirl in a right direction.\nSorry for the time\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8343,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Andrew Hawkins,2.1782824847157594,3.1652291071264176,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.6229190288168605,Filament moving around and not sticking to bed,\"I have only just set up my Anet A6 today. I am trying to print a calibration box, but the print is moving around the bed while trying to print. Any ideas how to fix this? The documentation is very vague.\n\nBasically I am very new to 3D printing. I purchased an Anet A6 and have set it up stock. I am trying to just print the box directly from the demo models on the SD card. I'm using the standard filament that comes with the printer. I'm not sure what type it is.\n\nAll settings are default.\n\",0scar,\"If the printed material moves with the nozzle, you might have several problems at hand, e.g.:\n\n\nadhesion, \nnozzle to bed distance and \noverall level.\n\n\nNozzle to bed distance needs to be the thickness of a plain A4 or Letter paper. This needs to be at the same distance (when pulling the sheet of paper you need to feel a little drag) at the complete area of the bed. This is sometimes difficult as not all beds are perfectly flat from itself. Finally, you need to pull some tricks out of your sleeve to get the filament to adhere to the bed. Many example can be found, popular ones are using blue tape, glass bed, glue stick, PVA based spray (e.g. strong hairspray or dedicated spray cans like 3DLAC or Dimafix, etc.), or a combination of these. You just need to experiment some more what works best for you, but it is good to start with a correctly levelled bed with the proper nozzle gap. Sometimes, increasing the bed and filament temperature with 5 °C for the first layer also helps.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n8343,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Andrew Hawkins,2.1782824847157594,3.1652291071264176,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.6229190288168605,Filament moving around and not sticking to bed,\"I have only just set up my Anet A6 today. I am trying to print a calibration box, but the print is moving around the bed while trying to print. Any ideas how to fix this? The documentation is very vague.\n\nBasically I am very new to 3D printing. I purchased an Anet A6 and have set it up stock. I am trying to just print the box directly from the demo models on the SD card. I'm using the standard filament that comes with the printer. I'm not sure what type it is.\n\nAll settings are default.\n\",DColl,\"Also check your speed settings. \n1st layer should always be printed 50% of the normal speed, if not less. (my choice is 20mm/s)\n\nIf your overall printing speed is really fast, collision with already printed lines may be the issue. You can try either slow down movement/print or avoid/retract over peripherals. \n\nAny hairspray containing neodecanoate copolymer is a great adhesion, and very cheap :)\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8351,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dr. Mantis Tobbogan,2.528907649931287,4.037759266168816,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Ender 3 Distorted Calibration Cube,\"Issue: My Ender 3 is creating distorted prints with layer separation and deformations.\n\nExample Here\n\nCan anyone point me in the right direction? \n\nSetup:\n\n\nEnder 3\nTH3D EZABL Auto Bed Leveling\n1.75 mm ABS filament (245 °C)\nHeated Bed (100 °C)\nSliced in Ultimaker Cura (with 1.75 mm filament diameter and 0.2 mm layer height)\n\n\nWhat I have tried:\n\n\nTightening Z axis screw\nTightening Y axis belt\nTightening X axis belt\nSwitching to a different spool of ABS\nPrinting a temperature tower (same problem across different temperatures)\nTurning off the auto bed leveling.\n\n\nUpdate:\n\n\nI've measured the temperature of the hot end, it is reading around 205°C +- 20°C\nAs per suggestion from the TH3D support team, I tuned the PID of my hot end. Unfortunately the results did not turn out much better (1,2) and the support technician is suggesting(a long with many people from the comments) that I should try to replace the thermistor. As per suggestion from @Trish, I measured the impedence of the thermistor and it does seem to be somewhat off from stock (118kΩ vs 100kΩ). Will update again once the replacement arrives.\nAs requested, here are some more photos front, back, left side, right side. The cube isn't hollowed out just to save material while I calibrate the dimensions.\nI printed the same cube out, rotated 90 degrees. I got similar results though: front, back, left side, right side.\nSwapping the nozzle out solved the issue! Thanks for the help everyone!\n\n\",Dr. Mantis Tobbogan,\"Resolution: After many trials and errors, I finally replaced the nozzle with one that that was not partially blocked by filament at its entrance. \n\n\n\nLikely cause: A careful examination of the old part hints, that the repeated blockage in the nozzle seems to have been caused by a gap between the PTFE tube and the nozzle, which has considerably moved backwards under the stress of printing as one can see here in a photo of the PTFE tube.\n\n\n\nIt took me about a month and I went down a few rabbit holes until @user77232 made a great suggestion to check the nozzle and see if it needs to be cleaned. Thanks for helping me out everyone!\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n8353,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ragekillen,1.0891412423578797,3.007463813452983,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"how to split a 40\"\" model into 5 parts to print seperate\",\"I currently have a model in fusion 360 of cylinders with the largest being 40\"\" diameter in a specific pattern as seen below. My printer is a Ender-3x with the build plate dimensions of 8.7\"\" x 8.7\"\" x 9.8\"\"\n\nI need to break this model into 5 pieces of exactly equivalent length so I can print same piece 5 times to equal a full cylinder \n\n \n\",Trish,\"You've got several options:\n\nGenerate full-size STL, cut via software later\n\nIf you just have an STL, you can use software such as Meshmixer to modify it. In this case, a plain plane cut would suffice.\n\nModifiy the design file\n\nA better way is to go into the design file (in your case fusion) and modify it there. In your case, it's rather easy:\n\n\nadd a construction plane\n\n\nchoose the right constraints, e.g. an angle to the XZ plane or a distance to the XY plane\n\nchoose the model\n\n\nEdit > split model\nchoose the construction plane you made\n\nrinse and repeat\n\n\nIf you want to get rid of parts that became superfluous after this, use the remove option, not the delete option, as the later tries to make sure that the object never was made in the workflow.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n8368,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hlias,2.1782824847157594,2.917283834062601,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Extruder clicking issue with MKS Board v1.5,\"So I know there have been several clicking Extruder threads but have not found any solutions to the one I am having.\n\nBackground:\nI have a custom Prusa like 3d printer fitted with an MKS board (v1.5) and an MK3 Extruder.\n\nThe issue:\nWhile i can extrude fine when ordering some extrusion, as soon as i start to print an object the extruder just starts \"\"clicking\"\".\n\nWhat I have tried so far:\n\n\nChanging motors: I have tried using a new motor which I know it\nworks and the problem persists. \nI have adjusted the stepper driver voltages, and the problem\npersists.\nI have changed the PSU and the problem persists.\nChanging the whole board: I have changed the whole board with a\nbrand new one and the problem persists.\n\n\nI am out of options here. So now the only logical explanation is that the both boards (the old and new) have exactly the same problem, i.e. the extruder stepper driver is bad in some way. Yet again, it works fine when simply extruding...\n\nAny help would be much appreciated. \nThanks.\n\",Davo,\"There is one reason why extruders \"\"click\"\": the material can't be melted and advanced fast enough.\n\nThere are two likely reasons why your extruder works when used manually, but not during a print:\n\n1. The temperature is not hot enough for the speed (volume per second) demanded by the print. \n\nHave you verified that you're using the proper temperature, and that the head is reaching the proper temperature?\n\n2. There is too much resistance on the delivery. \n\nHave you verified that the Z positioning is not too close, causing back pressure and interfering with the deposition?\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8368,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hlias,2.1782824847157594,2.917283834062601,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Extruder clicking issue with MKS Board v1.5,\"So I know there have been several clicking Extruder threads but have not found any solutions to the one I am having.\n\nBackground:\nI have a custom Prusa like 3d printer fitted with an MKS board (v1.5) and an MK3 Extruder.\n\nThe issue:\nWhile i can extrude fine when ordering some extrusion, as soon as i start to print an object the extruder just starts \"\"clicking\"\".\n\nWhat I have tried so far:\n\n\nChanging motors: I have tried using a new motor which I know it\nworks and the problem persists. \nI have adjusted the stepper driver voltages, and the problem\npersists.\nI have changed the PSU and the problem persists.\nChanging the whole board: I have changed the whole board with a\nbrand new one and the problem persists.\n\n\nI am out of options here. So now the only logical explanation is that the both boards (the old and new) have exactly the same problem, i.e. the extruder stepper driver is bad in some way. Yet again, it works fine when simply extruding...\n\nAny help would be much appreciated. \nThanks.\n\",silver,\"Perhaps the print extrude speed is much higher than the manual extrude speed.\n\nOften times the jog functions presented in printer host software are set to reasonably low speeds, while the actual maximum allowed speed is much higher. If you are using pronterface, there is an option above the jog controls to set the speed. Note it's current value, and raise it until either the extruder clicks as your print does, or until it simple stops increasing speed. If you can make it click with more speed, then your max E speed limit is too high. You can either lower it with M203 in your starting gcode, or reflash the firmware with a new value. Alternatively you could limit the speed in your slicer and trust that it will not exceed the machine's capabilities.\n\nIf you cannot make it click with more speed in a manual extrude, then the firmware limits are fine (you can still check them with M503) and the problem is elsewhere. Perhaps the filament getting caught, or a motor wire damaged and making partial contact. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8369,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,AMA1123,2.528907649931287,3.4733367161777027,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,3D printed part sticking to the support layer,\"I am using a Flash Forge Creator, and when I print big parts (only in this case) I have about 25% of the bottom of the printed object sticking very hard to its support layer. And I spend a lot of time removing it with a cutter.\n\nIs there any clue or good practice to avoid that?\n\nI use ReplicatorG for my printing settings.\n\",0scar,\"According to the manufacturer:\n\n\n ... you are able to choose your favorite software such as\n FlashPrint, Simplify3D, Cura and more.\n\n\nNot being familiar with ReplicatorG, I know that other slicer software can set the distance between supports and print (in terms of the amount of layers). You could look for such a setting in ReplicatorG, or use a different slicer such as Ultimaker Cura or Slic3r; which are free and able to make such adjustments.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n8369,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,AMA1123,2.528907649931287,3.4733367161777027,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,3D printed part sticking to the support layer,\"I am using a Flash Forge Creator, and when I print big parts (only in this case) I have about 25% of the bottom of the printed object sticking very hard to its support layer. And I spend a lot of time removing it with a cutter.\n\nIs there any clue or good practice to avoid that?\n\nI use ReplicatorG for my printing settings.\n\",AMA1123,\"I finally found out two causes:\n\n\nThe 3D printer has default settings for ABS, and since there is no printer bed settings in ReplicatorG, the bed temperature was set to 110 °C instead of  60°C. I fixed the setting directly on the printer itself.\nIt seems that one side of the printer bed was little closer to the nozzle than other sides (relatively to the extruder) and this added a pressure on the support layer. I found this by observing the structure of the support layer that was little more compressed in one side. That was easy to fix by iteratively tightening/loosening the screw of that side and observing the support layer (and canceling the print if it is not homogeneous).\n\n\nI installed Ultimaker Cura and Slic3r to try them and I found that Ultimaker Cura was not adapted to my printer (I did not found a complying model), Slic3r seems to be okay but I was not able to fit my big part inside of it.\nI am trying to use the maximum available space for my part, perhaps I need to change some settings for Slic3r and anyway it is already working on ReplicatorG.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n8371,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jesse,1.0891412423578797,3.1516766269614735,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Creality ender 3 buildplate jamming,\"I bought a ender 3 a short time ago and yesterday i noticed a print failed. It seems like the buildplate jammed while trying to move along the y-axis so i replaced the v-shape wheels that keep it on the rails. However it still seems like my buildplate jams with every print en so my print layers move when the buildplate doesn't move making the layers not connect at the right places. Is there anyone who had this problem before and might know how to fix this?\n\",Trish,\"that sounds like layer shift... you might have one of these issues\n\n\novertightened the carriage wheels.\na loose Y-belt.\nsomething getting into the bed's cable, resulting in drag.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8372,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Alex,1.0891412423578797,2.877598637377739,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Sealing PLA & oil-based art supplies?,\"I will be printing an item that's usually made out of resin, but my version will be made out of PLA. Here are some questions I have:\n\n\nUsually, people seal the resin with brands such as Testor's, Liquitex, or Mr. Super Clear, to create a layer that prevents paint or materials from bleeding into the resin over time. Is this necessary for items made out of PLA? Will the same sealant brands work?\nOn these resin items, people steer clear of oil-based art supplies, like oil pastels, because the they will also stain the resin. Does the same concept apply to PLA?\nSometimes, certain dyed fabrics or synthetic materials will stain resin. Do these materials also have the potential to stain PLA? \n\n\nThanks for the help! \n\",Trish,\"I have worked with PLA and paints before. I use mainly acryl-based paints as well as spray lacquers.\n\nSealent is not necessary.\n\nWhile a sealant is not necessary, you might prefer to use a spray on, smooth drying lacquer to get a smooth surface. PLA does not \"\"soak in\"\" paints or colors like resins.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8380,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Paul V,2.8153892694839717,4.285226429075837,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,Prusa i3 Mk3 - Top layer wrinkles (not on buildplate),\"Recently started using my kit Prusa I3 Mk3 and noticed that with large horizontal surfaces a wrinkling pattern is emerging.\n\nAs you can see in the image the wrinkles seem to run parallel, the surface is 10 mm above the build plate with all bridges fully supported.\n\nHas anyone seen this before? All other areas seem to be doing well.\n\nThis print uses PLA filament @ 235 °C hotend temperature and clearly shows a wrinkled pattern on the top layer\n\n\n\n\n\nIf it helps, I haven't changed the settings from the normal Prusa Slic3r 0.15 profile.\n\nThe problem reduced to an acceptable level by reducing the temperature to 205 °C but keeping the fan speed 100 %, I am printing PLA. I might reduce the fan speed if I feel troubled by the result.\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"Might just be that you are bridging without collapsing but still have some visible sag. Things to try:\n\n1) increase the support/infil density. If slic3r has a configurable setting like Cura does, you only need to increase the density for the last couple mm prior to the top layer.\n\n2) increase the top plate thickness (number of extruded layers). This often allows the first extruded layer to sag, but the final layer or two to be quite flat. \n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n8380,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Paul V,2.8153892694839717,4.285226429075837,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,Prusa i3 Mk3 - Top layer wrinkles (not on buildplate),\"Recently started using my kit Prusa I3 Mk3 and noticed that with large horizontal surfaces a wrinkling pattern is emerging.\n\nAs you can see in the image the wrinkles seem to run parallel, the surface is 10 mm above the build plate with all bridges fully supported.\n\nHas anyone seen this before? All other areas seem to be doing well.\n\nThis print uses PLA filament @ 235 °C hotend temperature and clearly shows a wrinkled pattern on the top layer\n\n\n\n\n\nIf it helps, I haven't changed the settings from the normal Prusa Slic3r 0.15 profile.\n\nThe problem reduced to an acceptable level by reducing the temperature to 205 °C but keeping the fan speed 100 %, I am printing PLA. I might reduce the fan speed if I feel troubled by the result.\n\",0scar,\"Waves in printed surfaces with FFF are observed at either the bottom layer (common) or the top layer (less common).\n\nWaves in bottom layer\n\nRippling/wave generation/wrinkling is a common problem for first layer to occur and has a direct relation to the print nozzle to bed distance; a too short of a distance or over-extrusion can lead to this effect. However, this effect is less commonly observed in top layer finishes. Bottom layer waves are described in more detail in this answer.\n\nWaves in top layer\n\nI have seen this defect before. It is caused by a combination of incorrect hotend temperature and print cooling fan settings. Please reduce the hotend temperature and reduce the fan cooling. The image below clearly shows the differences of such measures.\n\n\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n8447,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Paul V,1.726248027126092,4.419943887971852,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Prusa I3 mk3 - Not your average inconsistent first layer,\"Over the last two days I have tried everything I could come up with to fix the following issues.\n\nIt all started with bad bed adhesion.(pic.1) Solutions for these problems are readily available, so I calibrated my Z-axis (did the whole wizard from start to finish again) and started a calibration print over the whole buildplate, getting an interesting result.(pic.2) As you can see some area's are squashed nicely whilst others come off directly.\n\nI then started looking for alternative Z-levelling solutions and came across an alternative calibration file (link1), at first glance the results seemed allright, -0,8mm seem to provide the best results (pic.3) however notice the darkened area to the left (could be the high temp of this test? 225c?).\n\nTo validate the number I did a full print on -0,8 and this is where it gets weird, the result shows a non uniform transparancy (pic.4) the mechanical properties are also a lot less. I used my caliper to check the printer and all seems to be well within expected ranges.\nThe bed is also flat, checked with a ruler for deformaties.\n\nPrinting with the first spool of Prusa fillament, do notice some changes in the Z-level calibration print, the edges now bend upwards, this is done with the same Gcode and spool as previous (pic.5). \n\nAny advice on what to do next? \nPrinting on 210c with fan off for the first layer, test square on 225c, all PLA.\nCleaned the bed with Acetone (99% pure) before each attempt.\n\nPicture 1:\n\nPicture 2:\n\nPicture 3:\n\nPicture 4:\n\nPicture 5:\n\n\nEDIT: So Mick mentioned cleaning the nozzle which helped with the inconsistent first layer. In the end it was me being unaware that Aceton doesn't help with grease, a thorough scrubbing of the buildplate with soap and really hot water helped.\n\n\n\",Mick,\"If you repeat a test and the problem occurs in the same location, then you probably have a problem with your bed or build plate. However, picture 3 suggests to me that you may have a partially clogged nozzle. Manually extrude some filament. It should fall straight down. If it curls as it comes out of the nozzle, then you have a partial clog. Brass nozzles do wear out, so if you've put some hours on your printer, it might be a good idea to fit a new one.\n\nEdit: I meant picture 3, not picture 4.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n8447,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Paul V,1.726248027126092,4.419943887971852,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Prusa I3 mk3 - Not your average inconsistent first layer,\"Over the last two days I have tried everything I could come up with to fix the following issues.\n\nIt all started with bad bed adhesion.(pic.1) Solutions for these problems are readily available, so I calibrated my Z-axis (did the whole wizard from start to finish again) and started a calibration print over the whole buildplate, getting an interesting result.(pic.2) As you can see some area's are squashed nicely whilst others come off directly.\n\nI then started looking for alternative Z-levelling solutions and came across an alternative calibration file (link1), at first glance the results seemed allright, -0,8mm seem to provide the best results (pic.3) however notice the darkened area to the left (could be the high temp of this test? 225c?).\n\nTo validate the number I did a full print on -0,8 and this is where it gets weird, the result shows a non uniform transparancy (pic.4) the mechanical properties are also a lot less. I used my caliper to check the printer and all seems to be well within expected ranges.\nThe bed is also flat, checked with a ruler for deformaties.\n\nPrinting with the first spool of Prusa fillament, do notice some changes in the Z-level calibration print, the edges now bend upwards, this is done with the same Gcode and spool as previous (pic.5). \n\nAny advice on what to do next? \nPrinting on 210c with fan off for the first layer, test square on 225c, all PLA.\nCleaned the bed with Acetone (99% pure) before each attempt.\n\nPicture 1:\n\nPicture 2:\n\nPicture 3:\n\nPicture 4:\n\nPicture 5:\n\n\nEDIT: So Mick mentioned cleaning the nozzle which helped with the inconsistent first layer. In the end it was me being unaware that Aceton doesn't help with grease, a thorough scrubbing of the buildplate with soap and really hot water helped.\n\n\n\",Trish,\"The Prusa i3 is coated with a PEI sheet. PEI and other build plates stick to the build but don't like to be dirty. Fingerprints can build up and create an interference layer of fats that lessen the adhesion to a point the pieces spontaneously pop off.\n\nA good cleaning is often needed. For PEI Isopropylic Alcohol is a fast cleaner, but if you can remove the build plate soap and water work too - but take care not to go too hot as PEI can get damaged. For BuildTak and similar, Acetone also can do the job.\n\nWhen using Gluestick to create a deliberate destroyable adhesion layer (for filaments fusing with PEI that can result in chipping out chunks) clean the surface afterward with a little water. In the choice of gluestick, make sure you get a PVA based one.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8382,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tollo,3.9045305118418514,5.359513918954305,4.072585167927022,5.199501240805782,4.932097101757954,3.614503689077953,Isn't using the Extrusion Multiplier like cheating?,\"One thing I never understood is the so-called Extrusion Multiplier (EM) or Flow setting in slicers like Simplify3D (S3D) or CURA.\n\nThe description for this setting reads...\n\n\nS3D: Multiplier for all extrusion movements (...)\nCURA: The amount of material extruded is multiplied by this value. (...)\n\n\nI always believed that this parameter is just an ugly way to fix an underlying miscalculation or misconfiguration, because using it feels like doing a calculation, getting the wrong result and \"\"correcting\"\" it afterwards by a multiplier - isn't that cheating?\n\n\n\nBut, recently I thought a bit harder about this setting, now I am not sure anymore. One of the main reasons is, that S3D suggests different values for the EM, depending on the type of plastics used, 0.9 for PLA and 1.0 for ABS.\n\nThis somehow implies that there is a physical property that justifies the EM, but I cannot think of one because 1 m feeded would lead to 1 m extruded - no matter what kind of platics used, right?\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"To address the 'cheating or not' aspect directly. There are several other parameters (steps/mm, nominal filament diameter) which have a direct equivalent impact on the end result (at least ignoring small 2nd order effects like the retract distances).\n\nAs a purist, you might argue that these could all be rolled up into a single calibration parameter in the slicer, and it is a waste to allow the user to pick how to manage the differences (but this is not a very modern UI approach).\n\nThe clearest reason for 'permitting' the use of extrusion multiplier is that during a print, extrusion multiplier is one parameter that can often be adjusted on the fly. If you end up needing to perform on the fly calibration, it absolutely makes sense to transfer this parameter from the machine to the slicer rather than perform the extra calculations to determine a new nominal filament diameter. It will probably be easier to remember a specific spool needing 95%, rather than 1.7nnn mm.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8382,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tollo,3.9045305118418514,5.359513918954305,4.072585167927022,5.199501240805782,4.932097101757954,3.614503689077953,Isn't using the Extrusion Multiplier like cheating?,\"One thing I never understood is the so-called Extrusion Multiplier (EM) or Flow setting in slicers like Simplify3D (S3D) or CURA.\n\nThe description for this setting reads...\n\n\nS3D: Multiplier for all extrusion movements (...)\nCURA: The amount of material extruded is multiplied by this value. (...)\n\n\nI always believed that this parameter is just an ugly way to fix an underlying miscalculation or misconfiguration, because using it feels like doing a calculation, getting the wrong result and \"\"correcting\"\" it afterwards by a multiplier - isn't that cheating?\n\n\n\nBut, recently I thought a bit harder about this setting, now I am not sure anymore. One of the main reasons is, that S3D suggests different values for the EM, depending on the type of plastics used, 0.9 for PLA and 1.0 for ABS.\n\nThis somehow implies that there is a physical property that justifies the EM, but I cannot think of one because 1 m feeded would lead to 1 m extruded - no matter what kind of platics used, right?\n\",tollo,\"In addition to the very detailed answers above, I would like to\nmention that the hardness of the filament plays a role too.\n\nMost feeders are spring loaded, therefore it depends on the hardness of the filament how far the teeth of the driving gear do sink in. The deeper they sink in, the smaller the effective diameter of the driving gear becomes.\n\nTherefore the E-steps/mm are not the same among ABS (~100 shore D) and PLA (~83 shore D).\n\nThis would lead to a higher value (of E-steps/mm) necessary for PLA as for ABS,\ncontrary to the values mentioned in the OP (EM of 0.9 for PLA / EM of 1.0 for ABS), where the extrusion multiplier is higher for ABS than for PLA.\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n8387,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Stefan,2.528907649931287,3.1020108497648207,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Extruder retracts filament while moving from default start line to actual object location,\"I am new to 3D printing and recently got a second hand RF1000 and am busy calibrating it. For this I want to print a basic calibration cube. I noticed the print doesn't always start with enough filament in the nozzle. To make sure the starting point for all prints are the same I added this G-Code in the CuraEngine settings:\n\nG92 E0 ; start line\nG1 F300 E-0.5\nG1 X230 Y22 Z0.35 F5000\nG1 F800 E13\nG1 X20 E25 F1000\n\n\nThis works however after this the slicer automatically adds G-Code to move the extruder to the skirt location. This should be fine however I noticed that during the last part of this movement it retracts filament. This causes the start of the actual print to fail. What causes this and how can I change my settings to prevent this?\n\nThanks for any help or advice you can give!\n\nBelow is the G-Code from start until the end of the skirt.\n\n;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 15.01\n; Default start code\nG28 ; Home extruder\nG1 Z15 F100\nM107 ; Turn off fan\nG90 ; Absolute positioning\nM82 ; Extruder in absolute mode\nM190 S60\n; Activate all used extruder\nM104 T0 S210\nG92 E0 ; Reset extruder position\n; Wait for all used extruders to reach temperature\nM109 T0 S210\nG92 E0 ; start line\nG1 F300 E-0.5\nG1 X230 Y22 Z0.35 F5000\nG1 F800 E13\nG1 X20 E25 F1000\n;Layer count: 199\n;LAYER:0\nM106 S127\nG0 F9000 X80.200 Y80.200 Z0.200\n;TYPE:SKIRT\nG1 F1800 X119.800 Y80.200 E0.44818\nG1 X119.800 Y119.800 E0.89636\nG1 X80.200 Y119.800 E1.34454\nG1 X80.200 Y80.200 E1.79272\nG0 F9000 X80.600 Y80.600\nG1 F1800 X119.400 Y80.600 E2.23185\nG1 X119.400 Y119.400 E2.67097\nG1 X80.600 Y119.400 E3.11010\nG1 X80.600 Y80.600 E3.54923\nG0 F9000 X81.000 Y81.000\nG1 F1800 X119.000 Y81.000 E3.97930\nG1 X119.000 Y119.000 E4.40937\nG1 X81.000 Y119.000 E4.83944\nG1 X81.000 Y81.000 E5.26951\nG0 F9000 X81.400 Y81.400\nG1 F1800 X118.600 Y81.400 E5.69053\nG1 X118.600 Y118.600 E6.11155\nG1 X81.400 Y118.600 E6.53257\nG1 X81.400 Y81.400 E6.95359\nG0 F9000 X81.800 Y81.800\nG1 F1800 X118.200 Y81.800 E7.36555\nG1 X118.200 Y118.200 E7.77751\nG1 X81.800 Y118.200 E8.18948\nG1 X81.800 Y81.800 E8.60144\nG0 F9000 X82.200 Y82.200\nG1 F1800 X117.800 Y82.200 E9.00435\nG1 X117.800 Y117.800 E9.40726\nG1 X82.200 Y117.800 E9.81017\nG1 X82.200 Y82.200 E10.21308\nG0 F9000 X82.600 Y82.600\nG1 F1800 X117.400 Y82.600 E10.60693\nG1 X117.400 Y117.400 E11.00079\nG1 X82.600 Y117.400 E11.39465\nG1 X82.600 Y82.600 E11.78850\nG0 F9000 X83.000 Y83.000\nG1 F1800 X117.000 Y83.000 E12.17330\nG1 X117.000 Y117.000 E12.55810\nG1 X83.000 Y117.000 E12.94290\nG1 X83.000 Y83.000 E13.32771\nG0 F9000 X83.400 Y83.400\nG1 F1800 X116.600 Y83.400 E13.70345\nG1 X116.600 Y116.600 E14.07920\nG1 X83.400 Y116.600 E14.45495\nG1 X83.400 Y83.400 E14.83069\nG0 F9000 X83.800 Y83.800\nG1 F1800 X116.200 Y83.800 E15.19739\nG1 X116.200 Y116.200 E15.56408\nG1 X83.800 Y116.200 E15.93077\nG1 X83.800 Y83.800 E16.29747\nG0 F9000 X84.200 Y84.200\nG1 F1800 X115.800 Y84.200 E16.65511\nG1 X115.800 Y115.800 E17.01274\nG1 X84.200 Y115.800 E17.37038\nG1 X84.200 Y84.200 E17.72802\nG0 F9000 X84.600 Y84.600\nG1 F1800 X115.400 Y84.600 E18.07661\nG1 X115.400 Y115.400 E18.42519\nG1 X84.600 Y115.400 E18.77378\nG1 X84.600 Y84.600 E19.12236\nG0 F9000 X85.000 Y85.000\nG1 F1800 X115.000 Y85.000 E19.46189\nG1 X115.000 Y115.000 E19.80142\nG1 X85.000 Y115.000 E20.14095\nG1 X85.000 Y85.000 E20.48048\nG0 F9000 X85.400 Y85.400\nG1 F1800 X114.600 Y85.400 E20.81096\nG1 X114.600 Y114.600 E21.14144\nG1 X85.400 Y114.600 E21.47191\nG1 X85.400 Y85.400 E21.80239\nG0 F9000 X85.800 Y85.800\nG1 F1800 X114.200 Y85.800 E22.12381\nG1 X114.200 Y114.200 E22.44523\nG1 X85.800 Y114.200 E22.76665\nG1 X85.800 Y85.800 E23.08808\nG0 F9000 X86.200 Y86.200\nG1 F1800 X113.800 Y86.200 E23.40045\nG1 X113.800 Y113.800 E23.71281\nG1 X86.200 Y113.800 E24.02518\nG1 X86.200 Y86.200 E24.33755\nG0 F9000 X86.600 Y86.600\nG1 F1800 X113.400 Y86.600 E24.64086\nG1 X113.400 Y113.400 E24.94418\nG1 X86.600 Y113.400 E25.24749\nG1 X86.600 Y86.600 E25.55081\nG0 F9000 X87.000 Y87.000\nG1 F1800 X113.000 Y87.000 E25.84507\nG1 X113.000 Y113.000 E26.13932\nG1 X87.000 Y113.000 E26.43358\nG1 X87.000 Y87.000 E26.72784\nG0 F9000 X87.400 Y87.400\nG1 F1800 X112.600 Y87.400 E27.01305\nG1 X112.600 Y112.600 E27.29826\nG1 X87.400 Y112.600 E27.58346\nG1 X87.400 Y87.400 E27.86867\nG0 F9000 X87.800 Y87.800\nG1 F1800 X112.200 Y87.800 E28.14482\nG1 X112.200 Y112.200 E28.42097\nG1 X87.800 Y112.200 E28.69712\nG1 X87.800 Y87.800 E28.97327\nG0 F9000 X88.200 Y88.200\nG1 F1800 X111.800 Y88.200 E29.24037\nG1 X111.800 Y111.800 E29.50747\nG1 X88.200 Y111.800 E29.77457\nG1 X88.200 Y88.200 E30.04166\nG0 F9000 X88.600 Y88.600\nG1 F1800 X111.400 Y88.600 E30.29971\nG1 X111.400 Y111.400 E30.55775\nG1 X88.600 Y111.400 E30.81579\nG1 X88.600 Y88.600 E31.07384\nG0 F9000 X89.000 Y89.000\nG1 F1800 X111.000 Y89.000 E31.32282\nG1 X111.000 Y111.000 E31.57181\nG1 X89.000 Y111.000 E31.82080\nG1 X89.000 Y89.000 E32.06979\nG0 F9000 X89.400 Y89.400\nG1 F1800 X110.600 Y89.400 E32.30973\nG1 X110.600 Y110.600 E32.54966\nG1 X89.400 Y110.600 E32.78960\nG1 X89.400 Y89.400 E33.02953\nG0 F9000 X89.800 Y89.800\nG1 F1800 X110.200 Y89.800 E33.26041\nG1 X110.200 Y110.200 E33.49129\nG1 X89.800 Y110.200 E33.72217\nG1 X89.800 Y89.800 E33.95305\nG0 F9000 X90.600 Y90.600\n\n\",0scar,\"The problem is that you prime the nozzle, but don't reset the filament length.\n\nWith your last priming action:\n\nG1 X20 E25 F1000\n\nYou deposit a line that is followed by a move to the start of the skirt:\n\nG0 F9000 X80.200 Y80.200 Z0.200\n\nThe printing of the start of the skirt is done by:\n\nG1 F1800 X119.800 Y80.200 E0.44818\n\nNotice the E term in your final priming line and the skirt print command; it goes from E25 to E0.44818, as these specify absolute movement, this results in a retraction of about 24.5 mm. What you should do is implement a G92 E0 after your last priming command to fix this incorrect retraction behavior.\n\n\n\nPlease also do note that you are using a very old version of the CuraEngine, maybe it is possible to update to a newer version as well; depending on the slicer you use.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n10799,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Stefan,1.0891412423578797,3.1237389567344533,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Raised shell edges on ocarina print. RF1000 sliced with Cura Engine,\"I am trying to print a 12 hole Ocarina I found on thingiverse. When printing I have to stop it around 25-30 layers because the edge of the shell is higher then the infill. \n\n\n\n\n\nG-Code of first 30 layers\n\nI tried changing the infill, wall size, speed and retraction settings to no avail. The settings of the example print were:\n\n\n100% infill\n0.2mm layer height\n40mm printing speed (average)\n1mm shell thickness (results in 2 layers)\nAutomatic infill patern\nPrinted at 210C with 3mm PLA (like this one)\nPrinted on a RF1000\nSliced with CuraEngine in Repetier-host V2.1.6.\n\n\nDoes anyone know what might cause this and how I can prevent it from happening?\n\nAny help is greatly appreciated! :)\n\",R..,\"I think the solution in your self-answer is just a partial mitigation for an underlying problem, and your expectations for output quality are way too low.\n\nFrom the pictures in the question, there's serious overextrusion and stringing going on. The stringing could be caused by a secondary problem (bad/insufficient retraction settings), but heavy overextrusion will cause there to be extreme residual pressure left between the extruder gear and the nozzle (especially in a bowden setup, though it's not clear what printer you're using or if it has a bowden tube) that retraction will be unlikely to sufficiently relieve, so it's also a characteristic consequence of overextrusion.\n\nAs Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 noted in a comment, having the filament diameter set to 1.75 mm while your printer actually uses 3 mm filament could cause this. Cura (especially CuraEngine invoked via command line rather than the GUI) is particularly bad about getting this wrong if you don't pass the options in exactly the right way.\n\nNote that lowering the infill percentage as you did would help get somewhat decent results with serious overextrusion, since the excess material has somewhere to go (into the unfilled part of the infill region). But you'll still be getting really bad (what I would call unacceptably bad) prints compared to what you could/should get.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10799,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Stefan,1.0891412423578797,3.1237389567344533,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Raised shell edges on ocarina print. RF1000 sliced with Cura Engine,\"I am trying to print a 12 hole Ocarina I found on thingiverse. When printing I have to stop it around 25-30 layers because the edge of the shell is higher then the infill. \n\n\n\n\n\nG-Code of first 30 layers\n\nI tried changing the infill, wall size, speed and retraction settings to no avail. The settings of the example print were:\n\n\n100% infill\n0.2mm layer height\n40mm printing speed (average)\n1mm shell thickness (results in 2 layers)\nAutomatic infill patern\nPrinted at 210C with 3mm PLA (like this one)\nPrinted on a RF1000\nSliced with CuraEngine in Repetier-host V2.1.6.\n\n\nDoes anyone know what might cause this and how I can prevent it from happening?\n\nAny help is greatly appreciated! :)\n\",Stefan,\"Managed to solve it by lowering the temperature to 190C. I also lowered the infill down to 25%. Thanks for the advice!\n\nI posted the make with results and settings on thingiverse.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8388,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Minjun Kim,1.726248027126092,3.7649394530103804,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Ender3 printing tilted layers,\"I bought an Ender 3, and after assembling it following the description and some YouTube videos and after correct leveling, I printed the test dog gcode on the micro SD card that comes with the printer. PLA 1.75 mm. Attached the image of the printing result. What went wrong? I didn't change or modify any settings what so ever, I just assembled the printer, and printed the test dog. Please help me, I am a beginner in 3D printing. \n\n\n\",Trish,\"This is an extreme case of repeated layer shifting in the Y-carriage, which can come from some pieces related to the carriage. Luckily for you, they are easily fixable.\n\n\nThe Ender3 Y-carriage has an eccentric nut to adjust the force the wheels press down on the V-slot. Adjust it (most likely loosen them a little) so it moves smoothly when the motors are off, but keep it tight enough so it does not tilt.\nThe belt in the Y-carriage might be loose. Tighten it till it gives a nice ring when struck.\nCheck if the gear on the Y-motor is tightened down correctly. If it slips or wriggles, the backlash results in the layers shifting.\nThe Ender3 has the cables to the gantry and the bed running across each other and quite open. Make sure nothing can be caught in them.\nMake sure the gantry is parallel to the bed and stays so in moving upwards - adjust the wheels as needed. \n\n\nTo ensure this, make sure the lead screw is orthogonal to the gantry. Level the bed afterwards. You might need to adjust the motor mount, possibly by shimming.\n\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n8388,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Minjun Kim,1.726248027126092,3.7649394530103804,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Ender3 printing tilted layers,\"I bought an Ender 3, and after assembling it following the description and some YouTube videos and after correct leveling, I printed the test dog gcode on the micro SD card that comes with the printer. PLA 1.75 mm. Attached the image of the printing result. What went wrong? I didn't change or modify any settings what so ever, I just assembled the printer, and printed the test dog. Please help me, I am a beginner in 3D printing. \n\n\n\",Levi Giesbrecht,\"Ender 3's have a reputation to be not quite square on the base. Make sure that your X, Y, and X axis' are all perfectly squared.\n\",0.0,0.0\n8412,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Duz1Adam,1.0891412423578797,2.8673070466884,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Steppers don't work as expected while printing,\"I have a problem with my steppers of a RepRap 3D printer I'm making. \n\nI assembled the machine and performed the endswitch calibrations. when the machine is not printing, the steppers are moving as expected. But, when I start printing, only the z-axis moves. it is also moving very fast; X and Y axis don't move. I'm using a RAMPS 1.4 board, NEMA 17 steppers and A4988 stepper drivers. My configuration file can be found here. \n\nDoes somebody know what could be the problem?\n\",0scar,\"I've looked into your configuration file of your firmware but cannot find anything that describes this odd behavior. You have used some conservative settings regarding printing acceleration. What cannot be assessed is the amount of steps required per millimeter movement of every axis, that is left for you to re-check.\n\nNote that when the steppers are working as expected when the printer is at idle and you command the printer with an external printer software (e.g. Pronterface from the PrintRun software suite, Repetier-Host, OctoPrint, etc.), the problem could well be caused by the slicer and/or the options used for slicing the print part.\n\",0.0,0.0\n8424,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,henradrie,2.8153892694839717,2.634955868424173,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Slicer software capable of working with large filaments,\"I'm starting work on a very large 3d printer that uses very large filament. The idea is to house the entire thing in a shipping container and print things as large as cars. \n\nFilament will be some type of epoxy that is to be extruded out of a large 25mm nozzle. A second smaller nozzle using the same material will be used to do finer edges. A third nozzle will be used to produce supports of a different material.\n\nI know this is quite different than most 3d printing applications. I am wondering what slicers I should look into using that are adaptable enough to work with these constraints, or if such software exists.\n\",Trish,\"After checking it up, Ultimaker Cura (and possibly most other slicers capable of multi-extruder setups) is able to handle multiple extruders of varying nozzle size and seems to be ok with 25 mm Nozzles or something ludicrous such as 200 mm filament. You should aid its slicing in some way:\n\n\nDedicate one nozzle to the support structure, that's easy.\nDesign your parts with 2 shells:\n\n\nOne is the main body with corners cut to the main nozzle's extrusion diameter.\nThe other is the corners and details.\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8430,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,PickleDonk,0.0,3.615707788172995,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.585260288142579,Is it safe to use a 3D printed icing smoother?,\"I want to 3d print my own icing smoothers, but I'm not sure if its safe to have plastic from a 3D printer in contact with cake icing. Is there any harm in this?\n\",user77232,\"Only certain plastics are safe enough to be used to contain or manipulate food. ABS and PET-G are such materials. The 3d printing process however is not food safe because, it creates crevices in the printed part into which bacteria and other contaminants can cling to. A printed part would need to be coated in a silicone rubber to render the surface both inert (can't grow anything) and smooth (no crevices). Further, the type of plastic you use must be able to be sterilized in boiling water. PLA softens in boiling water. PET-G variants can as well (think clear plastic bottles). This is why most food handing utensils are either glass or stainless steel.\n\nIf you are going to use a 3d printing process to produce parts that are to be used for food, you also have to consider containment from the machine itself. The brass nozzle, the teflon tube, the extruder gears etc. The filament itself may not have come from the factory as clean as it would need to be to be used around food. \n\nIf you are able to coat the heat resistant part in silicone and you only use it a few times (ensuring that it is properly washed and sterile) then it can be used for food prep purposes.\n\nThere is a difference between food grade and safe for contact with food.\n\n\n Acrylonitrile/butadiene/styrene copolymer identified in this section may be safely used as an article or component of articles intended for use with all foods, except those containing alcohol, under conditions of use E, F, and G described in table 2 of 176.170(c) of this chapter.\n\n\nAbstract from: https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=177.1020\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n8430,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,PickleDonk,0.0,3.615707788172995,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.585260288142579,Is it safe to use a 3D printed icing smoother?,\"I want to 3d print my own icing smoothers, but I'm not sure if its safe to have plastic from a 3D printer in contact with cake icing. Is there any harm in this?\n\",Joel Coehoorn,\"As mentioned, FDM 3D printed parts are flawed for food service and prep use regardless of the material, because of the small gaps between lines where bacteria can grow, and because your printer isn't used in a way to keep it from introducing contaminants into otherwise clean material.\n\nHowever, there are some ways around this.\n\nSingle-use\n\nI'm pretty comfortable using my printer to make items for one time use. If I wanted an icing smoother with a fancy shape for a special cake that I'm not likely to need again soon, I'd go ahead and do that. I would apply all the icing at one time, and then I'd discard the piece, rather than try to clean and save it. Also note that I'm not talking about a commercial kitchen; this would be for a cake I'd eat myself with friends, rather than sell. \n\nThe big thing I've done this way so far (I've had my printer less than a year) is make shaped cookie cutters. I'll print the cutters, use them, and then throw them away. If I want the same shape again some time, I'll re-print.\n\nLining\n\nThe other thing you can do with food prep items is print them with the intent to use liners. For example, here is a 3D-printable taco train, where a train car has grooves to hold tacos (yum!). It wouldn't be good to put a taco directly in here, but you could use napkins or similar food-safe liner to separate the 3D part from the food. In the case of the icing smoother, you might be able to print the part and wrap it in aluminum foil.\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n8435,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mandeesh Singh,1.726248027126092,2.9816351676497708,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Extruder Motor Not working during Printing,\"I am a newbie trying to setup and configure a 3D printer following online YouTube videos and tutorials. I am trying to configure a Hypercube Evolution 3D printer.\nI followed Tech2C videos (on YouTube) and was able to configure Marlin firmware to some extent. I am using Pronterface to send test codes and taking files from thingiverse.com for testing. \n\nConfiguration :\n\n\nCoreXY\nBoard : Ramps 1.4\nExtruder Setup Type : Direct drive using Titan e3D\nAll end stops, temperature sensors, heaters configured and verified.\n\n\nWhat is working :\n\n\nX,Y,Z axis movement directly from panel.\nHoming is ok.\nTemperature sensors, heating bed and hot end as expected.\nExtruder motor working with direct on panel command.\n\n\nWhat is not working :\n\n\nWhen I send a print file (taken from thingiverse.com), the X,Y,Z axis work but there is no extrusion what so ever. I have tried a lot of things but using files from thingiverse, the extrusion of filament is not there whatsoever. It's been 2 months trying to figure out whether the issue is in firmware or the file, however to no use. \n\n\nCan anyone help me get out of this or point out where I can be going wrong?\n\",Nach0z,\"If the extruder extrudes fine from the control panel, chances are there's a configuration problem somewhere. For example, check your extruder steps/mm in the firmware to make sure it's not a nonsensical value; check the slicer settings to make sure that the filament diameter, line width, and layer height are all correct; make sure you're not trying to extrude in volumetric mode without having configured volumetric printing in your firmware and slicer correctly; and finally check your temperature control settings. When I first set up my fleabay 3d printer, I couldn't get my printer to work because the hotend minimum shutoff temp (thermistor disconnect protection basically) was set to something like 195C and the print temperature was 180C. I had an almost identical issue when I changed my fan assembly and it started blowing on the wrong part of the hotend, causing the firmware to register that entirely too much energy was being put into the extruder. Check the minimum temps for both hotend and heated bed and see if one of them is tripping your failsafes and stopping the extruder before printing even begins.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8436,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Marcin Szydłowski,1.726248027126092,3.2764534681924653,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,How neodymium magnet affect (if any) on extruder motor,\"I saw on a popular site simple indicators for attaching to the axle of an extruder motor (Prusa printers). Those gadgets are spinning due to movement of motor, both clockwise (pulling filament) or counterclockwise (retracting). But all of those things are attached to motor axis by small neodymium magnet (round, 8x3 mm). I searched informations how such magnets affects for stepper motors and I read that magnet field can significantly change magnetic field of the motor. On presented movies for gadgets which I saw, the motor seems to have no trouble with rotating but AFAIK neodymium magnets have really strong magnetic field and I am curious how its centric orientation due to motor axis:\n\n\ninhibits rotation\nif yes, how much it raises the temperature of motor?\nhow it affects for electronic of filament sensor?\n\n\nCurrently I use Prusa i3 MK3 printer and during long (~10h) printings an extruder motor is enough hot and I don't want make it hotter. I want to print and attach such \"\"rotation indicator\"\" but the fact of used magnets made me started to thinking about magnetic field of motor. Or maybe those changes are so marginal to think about them?\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"The best way to know is placing the magnet on the shaft; if you see that motor starts shaking or stops this mean that you affects the motor operation, but I think if any magnet interference can be deprecated due internal coils of the motor during operation. \n\nThe motor works with some coils in the rotor and some magnets in the stator (motor frame). But the shaft is to far from the coils to be affected for the magnetism of one small neodimiun magnet which needs at least 7mm to trap another small metal objet or for induction sensing and 2mm as maximum for creating electrical flows (generation); this values are afected if the magnet is placed over other metal part reducing his atraction field, and the armor is too big for an small magnet 8x3mm.\n\nYou can attach some indicator with a double sided adhesive tape (3M) if still are worried about affecting your extruder.\n\nIf your motor extruder is heating during extended usage periods you should adjust the motor current, for example: you motors is rated 0.5A you should calibarte the current for 0.48A or 0.45; this could reduce the torque force of the motor by a little. Or maybe the current current :D is calibrated above 0.5A thats way you are getting over heating.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n8439,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tinkerman255,3.267423727073639,5.746606002664772,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Ender 3 severe under-extrusion,\"I've been using my Ender 3 for about four months now and it's been working wonderfully. The print quality is amazing and all the prints are very strong. Then about three weeks ago, my entire system crashed while Ultimaker Cura was open and it lost the profile for my 3D printer. I recreated the profile to the best of my ability with other people's working profiles online, but none of them worked right. I've been getting severe under extrusion in all my prints, and they're incredibly fragile. For now, I've just been printing a 1\"\"x1\"\"x1\"\" test cube. I've tried many steps from other people's posts online to fix the problem, including:\n\n\nRaising the print temperature for PLA to 200 °C.\nChecking the extruder for signs of too little tension or too much tension. I checked, and the PLA has light tooth imprints on it, and no grinding or damage to the filament.\nClearing out the extruder. I disassembled the whole extruder assemble, and flushed all the plastic from each part with a heat gun, and metal pick, and then tried reprinting, but it didn't work.\nTrying a newer Ultimaker Cura version. At the time, I was using Ultimaker Cura 3.1 and hadn't updated because it was working well. I then tried the newest stable release of Ultimaker Cura 3.6, with a few different profiles, and then I also tried the beta version of Ultimaker Cura 4.0, but none of these worked.\nIncreasing the extrusion rate. I incrementally increased the extrusion rate from 100 % all the way up to 130 %. The prints looked a little better and were a lot stronger, but this still didn't fix it.\nTrying a different slicer. I then downloaded Slic3r and created a new profile in that. The prints turned out a lot better, but there was still significant under extruding.\nChecking the filament tube for any burns or damage, and ensuring it's inside the extruder assembly all the way.\n\n\nIf anyone can help me figure out what's going on with my printer, I'd really appreciate it!\n\nHere are some pictures of the prints I've been getting:\nThese were made in Ultimaker Cura with different small changes to the profile made\n\n\n\nThese were made in slic3r with a flow rate adjusted up to 130%\n\n\nThese were prints I made before I lost all my settings in Ultimaker Cura.\n\n\nHere's some of the material I read/watched and checked before posting myself:\n\n\nI am experiencing some severe under extrusion\nSudden underextrusion on Ender3\nr/3DPrinting: Under extrusion on Ender 3\nFixing a Filament Flow Problem on CR-10 mini, CR-10 or Ender 3 by CHEP\n\n\nEdit: Here's my printer profile:\nEnder 3 Profile Google Drive\n\",Trish,\"It is not too rare to create a new machine in Ultimaker Cura to be set to 2.85 mm as this is the default. Also some bugs in the past did reset or assume this diameter unless you manually set it, and unless we know your exact version we can't confirm it is really this.\n\nUnderextrusion why?\n\nThe 0.55 mm more radius result in an underextrusion due to the pressed through volume, and since $V=A\\times l$, we need to see the area to see how severe the underextrusion is for one given extruded length. $A_{1.75}=2.405\\text{ mm²}$ and $A_{2.85}=6.379\\text{ mm²}$ are rather obvious, so $\\frac {\\text{real extrusion diameter}} {\\text{calculated extrusion diameter}}=\\frac{A_{1.75}}{A_{2.85}}=37.7\\ \\%$, so only about 40 % of the needed filament is pressed through the nozzle as the slicer thinks it is almost twice the diameter. This matches well with the 130% still being very spotty, as that'd need a much higher factor to compensate for the underextrusion. A compensating extrusion multiplier would be $\\frac 1 {0.377}=265.25\\ \\%$.\n\nFixing\n\nTo fix this, check under filament and set it to 1.75 mm so you force the correct diameter. Remember that filament diameter is not saved in the printer profile but in the material database.\n\nYou might need to restart Ultimaker Cura to activate these new settings.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n8442,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sebastian Pelletier,1.0891412423578797,3.4291679796504773,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Controlling a 3D printer with another Arduino device over serial,\"If this is a silly question I apologize but I am trying to establish a serial connection between a 3D printer (Ender 3) and an Arduino Nano over the USB port. \n\nI am able to connect the 3D printer to a serial monitor on my PC and send G-code to it and control the printer. I am also able to connect my Arduino to the serial monitor and also send and receive strings.\n\nWhen I connect the Arduino directly to the 3D printer using a USB cable and separately powering the Arduino the 3D printer does not seem to respond to the G-code being sent over serial. \n\nWhat am I missing? \n\",mbmcavoy,\"This isn't really a 3D-printing issue as much as it is about Arduino, USB, and how serial connections over USB differ from a generic UART serial connection.\n\nFor a UART-based serial connection, there are only two devices, and both devices are peers - either can send data to the other with no real restrictions as long as the speeds are set correctly.\n\nUSB allows multiple devices to be connected, and is much more complicated. One device must be a \"\"host\"\", which manages everything. The other devices can be much simpler as they don't need to be a host. Typically, your PC is the host, and your keyboard, mouse, memory stick, Arduino, printer, etc. are all just attached devices.\n\nIf you've managed to connect your Arduino's USB port to your printer's USB port, the problem is most likely that neither device has hardware or software to be a host, so the USB connection won't work.\n\nThere was a \"\"USB Host Shield\"\" for Arduino, but is is no longer in production. Perhaps you can still find one somewhere, or somebody else makes an equivalent.\n\nThere is also an Arduino \"\"USBHost\"\" library, which is compatible with the Arduino Due only.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8443,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,zwep,1.0891412423578797,3.6260512276357146,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,\"Anet A6 stock power wires.. the live, the zero and the ground. Which is which\",\"As an electrician newbie I have a question.. \n\nShort question\n\nMy power plug is attached to the wall outlet and three wires are at the end of it.. the blue, the brown and the green/yellow oen.\n\nHow to determine which is the live, zero and ground wire WITHOUT depending on the colouring?\nI want to know this to always be able to check the wiring, if I don't trust it.\n\nAlso, I have these sub questions that follow from my situation:\n\n\nWhy does the test screwdriver lit up when connected to the apparant zero line? \nHow can I determine the live/zero line using a multimeter\n\n\nSituation\n\nMy tools:\n\n\na test screw driver\na multimeter\nthe ANET A6 manual\n\n\nIn the manual it states that\n\n\nbrown is the live wire\nblue is the zero wire\ngreen/yellow is the ground wire\n\n\nI know that in some countries this colour coding is the standard and can be trusted. I just want to be able to check it.\n\nSo, my first hypothesis would be.. if I put the test screw driver on the live (brown) wire, lay my thumb on the end, the internal bulb would glow.\nThis did not happen. \nIt did happen when I put it on the zero (blue) wire. So I am a bit confused by this.\n\nMy second trick was using the multimeter. Using the positive and negative probes to determine the polarity and therefore decide how the current was flowing.\nBut there was no sign of polarity... duh.. because I was of course on AC, which is always Alternating.. hence no sign information from a multimeter.\nSo, how CAN I use a multimeter to determine the live/zero line? Maybe measure the current from live/zero to ground? Is that a safe option?\n\nPS: my first post on this forum.. so please correct me where needed\n\",Mick,\"This picture shows the correct wiring for a British 13A mains plug:\n\n\n\nThe green/yellow wire must always be connected to the earth terminal (at the top of the plug). This is most important, and will prevent electrocution if something goes wrong.\n\nThe brown (live) wire should be connected to the fuse, and the blue wire to the remaining terminal. It is true that, since alternating current is being used, the device will likely work if the blue and brown wires are swapped, but it is better to stick with standard practices to avoid confusion.\n\nI would not use a \"\"test\"\" screwdriver to determine which terminal is \"\"live\"\" in this instance, simply because it is unnecessary. The live terminal is always the one that the fuse is connected to. This is done for safety reasons since the device is automatically disconnected from the live side of the circuit if the fuse blows.\n\nHow to wire mains plugs is really beyond the scope of this stack. Watch appropriate YouTube videos if you want to make a competent job of it. The only advice that I will give is to always use a proper fuse of the correct rating for the device. Never use something like a paper-clip. Also, don't use the 13 Amp fuse that comes with the plug. The fuse is there to protect the cable, rather than the device. Most printers will draw less than 5 Amps, and will be supplied with a 5 Amp cable, so use a 5 Amp fuse.\n\nAlso, never work on a plug while it is connected to the power socket. This is most foolhardy, even if the socket appears to be switched off.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8443,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,zwep,1.0891412423578797,3.6260512276357146,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,\"Anet A6 stock power wires.. the live, the zero and the ground. Which is which\",\"As an electrician newbie I have a question.. \n\nShort question\n\nMy power plug is attached to the wall outlet and three wires are at the end of it.. the blue, the brown and the green/yellow oen.\n\nHow to determine which is the live, zero and ground wire WITHOUT depending on the colouring?\nI want to know this to always be able to check the wiring, if I don't trust it.\n\nAlso, I have these sub questions that follow from my situation:\n\n\nWhy does the test screwdriver lit up when connected to the apparant zero line? \nHow can I determine the live/zero line using a multimeter\n\n\nSituation\n\nMy tools:\n\n\na test screw driver\na multimeter\nthe ANET A6 manual\n\n\nIn the manual it states that\n\n\nbrown is the live wire\nblue is the zero wire\ngreen/yellow is the ground wire\n\n\nI know that in some countries this colour coding is the standard and can be trusted. I just want to be able to check it.\n\nSo, my first hypothesis would be.. if I put the test screw driver on the live (brown) wire, lay my thumb on the end, the internal bulb would glow.\nThis did not happen. \nIt did happen when I put it on the zero (blue) wire. So I am a bit confused by this.\n\nMy second trick was using the multimeter. Using the positive and negative probes to determine the polarity and therefore decide how the current was flowing.\nBut there was no sign of polarity... duh.. because I was of course on AC, which is always Alternating.. hence no sign information from a multimeter.\nSo, how CAN I use a multimeter to determine the live/zero line? Maybe measure the current from live/zero to ground? Is that a safe option?\n\nPS: my first post on this forum.. so please correct me where needed\n\",0scar,\"As it is alternating current, why are you interested to know which is which? (I'm referring to the blue and the brown wire, the green/yellow has an obvious purpose) \n\nE.g. a CEE 7/4 plug can be flipped around in the CEE 7/3 socket. When you flip the plug (180°), the brown and the blue switch places, it is all depending on how the electrician in your home attached the brown and blue wires in the socket and depends on the socket and plug you use.\n\nThe only benefit would be that when you cut the power with a relay, you may want to have the power on the side of the relay, not the printer; but again, that does not matter when you flip the plug 180°. Note that some plugs inhibit rotation, so it also depends on the plug and socket you use and where you are located.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8452,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,VBuaquen,0.0,2.9075761835826794,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Any video tutorial for 3D printing,\"I am new here and would like to work on a project to 3D print a precision prototype. What is the most affordable way to do it? How do I go about it?\n\",Davo,\"These two videos seem to give a good, general, entry-level introduction to the various technologies and processes that are involved in 3D printing:\n\n\nThe Ultimate Beginner's Guide to 3D Printing - Part 1\nThe Ultimate Beginner's Guide to 3D Printing - Part 2\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n8452,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,VBuaquen,0.0,2.9075761835826794,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Any video tutorial for 3D printing,\"I am new here and would like to work on a project to 3D print a precision prototype. What is the most affordable way to do it? How do I go about it?\n\",user77232,\"[The question ask asked is vague, but since you are new it is understandable.]\n\nIf you want to build a precision prototype then you have to decide on the level of precision that is necessary. There are different types of 3D printers and services available which give various levels of precision and functionality.\n\nFused Filament Fabrication/Fused Deposition Modeling - This is typically a means of producing functional prototypes using plastic filament. In terms of precision it is currently the lest precise, but the most cost effective.\n\nBinder Jetting - This is basically crazy glue with food coloring which is inkjet printed onto a white powder layer by layer (vast oversimplification). Useful for producing prototypes with colours for product mockups but not for functional parts. This is mid the mid point in terms of price and precision. \n\nStereo Lithography / Photo polymerization - Lasers cause a liquid resin to harden and stick to each other. Also notable for being the first form of 3D printing, this is the highest precision that is easily attainable. The cost varies based on the provider but it is usually the most expensive option.\n\nDepending on your needs you may find that it is cheaper to develop a single prototype part (just one part not an entire machine) by sending out to a contract manufacturer as opposed to purchasing a 3D printer. \n\nHere are some examples of what to do when:\n\n\nIf you want to develop a diamond engagement ring for a customer: Send out to a contract manufacturer, for Stereo Lithography\nIf you broke part of the cupboard and its easy to design a new one: Consider purchasing a sub $400 USD FFF machine and learn to use it.\nIf you are developing a new line of designer sneaker: Send out to a contract manufacturer for Binder Jetting.\nIf you are doing miniature figurines for a stop motion animation television series: Invest in a Binder Jet machine and learn how to use it.\n\n\nIn my experience, people don't buy a 3D printer until they have held a 3D printed part in their hand or have seen the machinery in person. If you are new, start with a contract manufacturer and when you start spending so much on them that it is equaling the cost of owning a machine, then invest in your own system.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8455,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mouser,2.8153892694839717,3.4776007666316793,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,\"What does a stand alone \"\"T\"\" index value do?\",\"I'm using IdeaMaker for slicing my print objects. IdeaMaker start strings have a >T0< standing alone on one line and then >T1< on the next line. What does this accomplish?\n\",Trish,\"T stands for \"\"Tool\"\" and has its origin in the origins of .gcode being for other automated machine controls. Depending on the machine, everything could be a tool for .gcode, like an actuator or pump or a spindle motor or a drill.\n\nIn 3D printers, the T-controlled tool is usually the extruder motor. Convention has it that the indexing always starts at 0, so T0 and T1 are your first and second Extruder respectively. It is the way to choose which tool is used. \n\nAs a side note: E is not originally intended for extruders but for the feed rate of lathes.\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n8455,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mouser,2.8153892694839717,3.4776007666316793,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,\"What does a stand alone \"\"T\"\" index value do?\",\"I'm using IdeaMaker for slicing my print objects. IdeaMaker start strings have a >T0< standing alone on one line and then >T1< on the next line. What does this accomplish?\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"I'm not sure what it's doing in your case, but the \"\"T\"\" code is there to select the extruder number. T0 would be the first and T1 would be the second extruder in a multi-extruder setup. I found the information at the end of this cheat sheet. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8461,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tim Ackerman,2.1782824847157594,3.8186436911337327,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Anet A8 Wrong Hotend Temp,\"My Anet A8 reads as 120ish degrees Celsius, but it is set to 200 degrees. I don't know if it is reading the wrong temperature because it still pushes out plastic when I force it. It will climb up and then go back down. I don't know if the hot end it broke or if the thermistor is broke.\n\",0scar,\"You are sitting on a fire risk!\n\nIf you are using the stock/original firmware, you should immediately stop printing. The stock firmware of the Anet A8 has no thermal runaway protection (see also this answer), this means it will keep heating until the thermistor senses 200 °C, even if it cannot do that for some reason or another.\n\nWhen a hotend temperature does not read the correct value, your thermistor in the hotend may not be making correct contact (as you say that it goes up and down). Please ensure that the thermistor is correctly positioned, it makes good contact and the wires correctly fastened.\n\nSimilarly applies to the heater cartridge, which can fall out and causing a fire if not properly fastened. Ensure the heater cartridge is properly positioned and held in the heater block.\n\nFluctuations in temperature sometimes are induced by a wrongly positioned fan duct (but generally not that much). The reason why this is not the case here is that you can still push the filament through while it reads about 120 °C; this temperature is generally too low to push filament through. Apparently the hotend is still hot enough to push filament through while registering a low temperature.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8461,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tim Ackerman,2.1782824847157594,3.8186436911337327,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Anet A8 Wrong Hotend Temp,\"My Anet A8 reads as 120ish degrees Celsius, but it is set to 200 degrees. I don't know if it is reading the wrong temperature because it still pushes out plastic when I force it. It will climb up and then go back down. I don't know if the hot end it broke or if the thermistor is broke.\n\",bill_080,\"Without any other information, the highest odds are that the fan is blowing on the hot end. If the temp drops when the fan is on, and rises when the fan is off, then simply re-position the fan nozzle. If that's not the problem, check the thermistor. If that's not it, check the termination (tighten the screws) of the hot-end wires at the control board.\n\nNext, check the control board. If there's any indication that it's the board, one potential solution is to add a MOSFET (see the link). Even if the control board isn't the problem, I would add the MOSFET.\n\",0.0,0.0\n8474,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BlackManta2020,1.726248027126092,4.582456693986284,0.0,5.199501240805782,2.3655567426522146,1.9721387515589952,Printing temperatures for ABS on a Flashforge Adventurer 3,\"I've recently acquired a Flashforge Adventurer 3 and am having difficulty printing with ABS. The initial layers seem to lay and stay pretty well, though after a few more moments, one side will peel up from the heated platform. I'd like to know if anyone has optimal and tested temperatures for the use of ABS on my printer for the nozzle and platform?\n\nI've used FlashPrint for slicing my objects using the following options:\n\n\nSupports: Disable,\nRaft: enable,\nResolution: Standard,\nLayer Heights: 0.18 mm,\nFirst Layer Height: 0.27 mm,\nPerimeter Shells: 2,\nTop Solid Layers: 4,\nBottom Solid Layers: 3,\nFill Density: 15 %, Hexagon, Every 2 Layers,\nPrint Speed: 60 mm/s,\nTravel Speed: 80 mm/s,\nExtruder: 225 °C,\nPlatform: 70 °C,\nCooling Fan Controls: Automatic,\nNozzle Dia.: 0.4 mm\n\n\",Will Barrows,\"Note that some of the other advice is general advice which is not applicable to the Adventurer 3.\n\nTemperature control is somewhat limited on Adventurer 3. The maximum bed temperature is 100 °C. There is no \"\"glass bed\"\". My Adventurer 3 is struggling to get the bed temperature to 98 °C. (The room temperature is 16 °C at the moment). I'm using Blu Stik glue on the bed to hold the print. Another possible problem is loss of heat out the side when the filament reel cover is off. The cover of mine is off because the reel of ABS does not fit in the bay. I've seen designs for filament bay covers with a hole in them to feed the filament in on Thingiverse. I'm considering building a box to put the printer in to keep the ambient temperature high. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8474,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BlackManta2020,1.726248027126092,4.582456693986284,0.0,5.199501240805782,2.3655567426522146,1.9721387515589952,Printing temperatures for ABS on a Flashforge Adventurer 3,\"I've recently acquired a Flashforge Adventurer 3 and am having difficulty printing with ABS. The initial layers seem to lay and stay pretty well, though after a few more moments, one side will peel up from the heated platform. I'd like to know if anyone has optimal and tested temperatures for the use of ABS on my printer for the nozzle and platform?\n\nI've used FlashPrint for slicing my objects using the following options:\n\n\nSupports: Disable,\nRaft: enable,\nResolution: Standard,\nLayer Heights: 0.18 mm,\nFirst Layer Height: 0.27 mm,\nPerimeter Shells: 2,\nTop Solid Layers: 4,\nBottom Solid Layers: 3,\nFill Density: 15 %, Hexagon, Every 2 Layers,\nPrint Speed: 60 mm/s,\nTravel Speed: 80 mm/s,\nExtruder: 225 °C,\nPlatform: 70 °C,\nCooling Fan Controls: Automatic,\nNozzle Dia.: 0.4 mm\n\n\",swimsorca,\"Having the same issues with the Adventurer 3. I have printed the TUSH (The Ultimate Spool Holder) and cut a 3 cm hole in the door. This enables me to run the spool directly into the printer with the door closed unsing a minimum sized hole.\n\nI am also printing the pieces at 235 °C nozzle temperature using glue as a heatbed adhesive.\n\nThe adventure 3 has no build plate adjustment apart for adjusting the nozzle height when it is centered. Does not leave you much room for adjustment.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8480,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,burtsevyg,1.726248027126092,4.794607064161538,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Error:Printer halted. kill() called!,\"When printing cube.gcode using Pronterface I get:\n\nPrint started at: 23:07:31\n\n\nAfter 8 seconds I get:\n\nError:Printer halted. kill() called!\nError:Printer halted. kill() called!\n\n\nWhat is the reason?\nHow can I see logs?\n\nAdditional information:\n\nI connected only three motors, and set the following in Configuration.h of Marlin Firmware:\n\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 999\n...\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 999\n...\n#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.\n...\n\n\n(Also for min max for XYZ)\n\nIn 8 second X motor and Z motor were running.\n\nThis is the link to G-Code print file (cube.gcode).\n\nI'm using Marlin 1.1.x on a Arduino Mega 2560 + RAMPS 1.4 without endstops.\n\",0scar,\"Your G-code file contains the G28 command to home the printer, as you do not have endstops, execution of this command fails. If you do not use endstops, you should never home the printer, instead you must position the print head at the origin yourself (generally this would be at coordinate [x=0, y=0, z=\"\"paper thickness\"\"]) and remove homing commands from your G-code file.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n8482,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,burtsevyg,1.726248027126092,4.272039549345993,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.488653845767225,After some time stepper motor is hot,\"I have three stepper motors.\nOne Nema 17 - 2.4 ohm, the second smaller noname from color printer - 9.5 ohm and third the smallest noname from cdrom - 10.5 ohm.\n\nI have connected them to arduino mega 2560 with ramps 1.4(set to 1/32 micro stepping) and drivers drv8825. See my previous question.\n\nAfter some time (less than one minute) the first is cold. The second motor is hot. And the third is very hot. I can not even touch it.\n\nWhat can I do to fix it.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"\n The second motor is hot. And the third is very hot. I can not even touch it.\n\n\nThis is to some degree, completely normal and expected. From the datasheet for a typical NEMA 17 stepper, the rated temperature rise is 80 °C above ambient and the maximum operating temperature is 130 °C (implying an ambient temperature of 50 °C). It is normal that stepper motors (in general) get a bit hot.\n\n\"\"Too hot to touch\"\" is still relatively cold. 60 °C is already too hot to touch, and that's only a 40 °C rise above a 20 °C ambient temperature.\n\nYou can reduce the temperature rise of the motors by reducing the current they receive. The stepper driver has a small potentiometer that can be turned to adjust the current, but keep in mind that doing so will also reduce the torque of the motors and thus they might skip steps if you reduce the current too much.\n\nTechnical details: Note that stepper motor drivers used in 3D printers are constant current drivers, and the little potentiometer controls the current. If you had not paid much attention to this potentiometer, the drivers might all have been set for the same constant current of $1.0\\ \\text A$. The stepper driver would (to achieve the same constant current) send a higher voltage to the higher resistance motors. This would imply a power dissipation of $2.4\\ \\text W$ in the Nema 17, and a power dissipation of $10.5\\ \\text W$ in the small stepper. $2.4\\ \\text W$ in the Nema 17 would only heat it up by about $20\\ °\\text C$ above ambient. A dissipation of $10\\ \\text W$ in the small stepper, which also has much less surface area to dissipate the power, would heat it up by a lot (and probably, given that you didn't fry it, the current was set lower -- or a technical peculiarity limited the current given that the motor likely also has very low inductance).\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n8482,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,burtsevyg,1.726248027126092,4.272039549345993,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.488653845767225,After some time stepper motor is hot,\"I have three stepper motors.\nOne Nema 17 - 2.4 ohm, the second smaller noname from color printer - 9.5 ohm and third the smallest noname from cdrom - 10.5 ohm.\n\nI have connected them to arduino mega 2560 with ramps 1.4(set to 1/32 micro stepping) and drivers drv8825. See my previous question.\n\nAfter some time (less than one minute) the first is cold. The second motor is hot. And the third is very hot. I can not even touch it.\n\nWhat can I do to fix it.\n\",cmm,\"Unless you have changed the factory stepper driver settings, they will all be set to deliver the same CURRENT to the motors. Stepper drivers operate as constant current supplies, so the voltage supply does not determine the power sent to the motor.\n\nThe power dissipation in a circuit is the current squared times the resistance. $P = I^2 R$. Because the current is constant, the 10.5-ohm motor will dissipate over four (4) times the power of the 2.4-ohm motor and will get much hotter more quickly.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8493,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nathan Headley,2.528907649931287,3.601668775190381,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How to fix bulging first layers of print?,\"The bottom 1-6 layers of my prints always bulge, like an enlarged elephant foot effect. I've tried all the fixes for elephants foot to no avail. I'm using:\nXYZPrinting DaVinci Jr 1.0 Pro with their own brand filament (1.75mm), nozzle: 0.4mm, tried various layer heights 0.1-0.3, with temperatures 190-205. It has a non-heated bed, using tape as an adhesive.\n\nProblem can be seen here:\n\n\n\n\",cmm,\"You specify that 1 to 6 layers are expanded. \n\nDoes that match with the number of bottom perimeters you ask for? If so, then I would suspect over-extrusion.\n\nIf not, it could be a combination of two problems:\n\n\nThe head is too close to the bed, and\nThe head has too much vertical compliance or springiness.\n\n\nIn this scenario, the head being too close puts additional upward pressure on the head. The springiness allows the head to displace upward, but it is still too close. Being too close, the extruded bead is spread out too far. With each additional layer, the head is relatively less close, and the effect reduces until eventually the head is not displaced by the extruded bead, and the object prints normally.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8497,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tanner D,2.8153892694839717,5.496502497490805,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,How to increase the amount of probing points for a BLTouch sensor in Marlin firmware?,\"I have a new BLTouch that is setup (using Marlin 1.8.7) but I want to increase the probing grid from a 3x3 to something like a 5x5. I am using bilinear leveling with a 3x3 grid.\n\nHow would I go about changing that?\n\",0scar,\"You need to change the constant value(s) in your Configuration.h file of your Marlin version from:\n\n\n// Set the number of grid points per dimension.\n #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 3\n #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X\n\n\nto:\n\n\n// Set the number of grid points per dimension.\n #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 5\n #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X\n\n\nThis shows that to go from a 3x3 grid to a 5x5 grid you only need to change one value. Do note that you can set GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y to any value other than GRID_MAX_POINTS_X; replacing GRID_MAX_POINTS_X in the line with GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y to 4 would yield a 5x4 probe grid:\n\n\n// Set the number of grid points per dimension.\n #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 5\n #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y 4\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n8500,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ZgestaltZ,2.1782824847157594,3.0241567845277415,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,2.880918201452841,Printer fails to print a cube,\"I'm trying to print a calibration cube from PLA using a 70 °C heated build platform on a Prusa i3 Pro W. This results in:\n\n\n\nPlease explain why it prints like this.\n\",cmm,\"The layer shift can also be caused by the stepper motor \"\"skipping\"\" when it hits an obstruction. The obstruction can be a loop or ridge of filament sticking up higher than it should be.\n\nAs Oscar suggests, the first step is always to make the first-layer-thickness be right. This is often called \"\"bed leveling\"\", but really it is making sure that the bed defines the z=0 plane that the firmware is expecting. If it isn't planar, if it isn't constant Z (ie., it tilts in any direction), or it isn't at zero, problems follow.\n\nIt seems to have mostly shifted in X, so start with that motor and belt. Have you adjusted the tension correctly? Is the motor current set correctly?\n\nOther things can also cause trouble, such as:\n\n\nA poorly mounted extruder that favors one direction\nBad slicer parameters that command movement faster than the printer's ability\nBad configuration parameters which call for acceleration or velocities beyond the printer's ability.\n\n\nAre the slicer settings matched to the printer? If this is a commercial printer, are you using a profile from the manufacturer? If this is your design, or heavily modded, have you tried de-tuning the slicer parameters and/or the configuration parameters?\n\nAny debugging proceeds from the first step, so adjust the Z=0 plane and see if you can print a uniform, single layer print covering the while bed. When that is good, you are most of the way to victory.\n\",0.0,0.0\n8500,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ZgestaltZ,2.1782824847157594,3.0241567845277415,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,2.880918201452841,Printer fails to print a cube,\"I'm trying to print a calibration cube from PLA using a 70 °C heated build platform on a Prusa i3 Pro W. This results in:\n\n\n\nPlease explain why it prints like this.\n\",0scar,\"There are multiple issues that cause this result.\n\nFirst, your nozzle is to far from the bed. This can be seen by the curly deposited filament on the build plate (I guess that is the brim or the skirt). Please properly level the bed and position the nozzle at a distance of a plain A4 paper as best as possible (should be doable as you have a glass sheet that are usually very flat as a result of the production process to make glass).\n\nThe second problem you face is layer shift. You see that the squares are printed further and further to the left, the print head does not return to original position. Layer shift is usually caused by improper belt tension or a loose grub screw of the belt pulley. This answer describes layer shifting in more detail. This question may be helpful too, the answer contains some references to layer shifting.\n\",3.0411126502294303,0.0\n8504,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,The1ComputerGuy,1.726248027126092,4.187090413990459,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Can I schedule prints to start at a specified time?,\"I want to know if it is possible to schedule a 3D Print to start at a specified time so that I don't have to press start. \n\nMy 3D Printer has an Arduino mega based RAMPS 1.4 control board & is connected to a Raspberry Pi 3B running OctoPi 0.15.1\n\",0scar,\"There are a few options to delay starting using either the OctoPrint environment or directly use G-code for this.\n\nThe use of G-code is probably the most simple for you to implement. The G4 command defines a \"\"dwell\"\" or pausing period for the next command to start:\n\n\n\nDepending on the firmware you use, you can use the P or S parameter to specify the pausing period.\n\nTo pause the print job (for 1 hour) you need to insert the following line as the first line of your G-code print file:\n\nG4 P3600000 // One hour pausing; defined in milliseconds\n\n\nor (if your firmware supports)\n\nG4 S3600 // One hour pausing; defined in seconds\n\n\nOther solutions may include the adaption of the OctoPrint controls menu structure or use of the REST API of OctoPrint. These options are more difficult to implement.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n8513,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,john,2.528907649931287,3.11657263068942,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.749318730431847,4.208576161768494,Printer is Confused-Printing in Air Literally,\"So I got my 3D printer (Anet A8) a few years ago and put it together. I couldn't figure out how to use it. Then about a month ago I decided to try again now that I am older and got it to work. I know more than I did by far. I have printed about 15-20 different times now, but then this problem occurred just now that I have never seen before. I tried looking up what it could be and google results in nothing and this exchange leads to one thread that is close to what I am having difficulty with but doesn't really help. I got the stl file from the internet on thingverse, so I am fairly certain they must have clicked the center and arrange when in the cad software to make the item, which is a phone stand. So my print all of a sudden starting printing in air. Here is a picture and thanks for the help. \n\n\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"Here's the pattern.\n\nThe problem is, you didn't slice the g-code using support. It won't print right without it.\n\n\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n8515,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user406482,1.726248027126092,3.304391138419485,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,Replicator 2x getting too hot with silent stepper drivers,\"I equipped my Makerbot Replicator 2x with silent stepper drivers TMC2100. According to the product page I reduced vref from 127 (factory default) to 25 in the printer settings as well as in my start-gcode.\n\nWith this i get horrible layershift (a few millimeters!), even if i reduce print- and travel-acceleration to 300. The layershift is mostly happening on y-axis, but also on x-axis. Not only layershift was happening, also the extruder-motors lost many steps.\n\nTo fight this problem I increased the vref little by little. At around 70 for x and y axis (and 50 for extruders) all layershift- and extrusion problems were gone. Also i had to install a dedicated fan for the stepper drivers, because they went very hot. \n\nI was happy with this solution for about 10 minutes, then I noticed that the stepper motors are getting so hot I burned my fingertips by touching them. My guess for the motor temperature would be 80~90°C.\n\nSo my question is: Are those TMC2100 stepper driver unsuitable for my usecase somehow or am I missing something? Is there a way to get the 3d printer silent while not overheating?\n\n\n\nEDIT:\n\nBehalf of your advice I mounted some heat sinks and measured the temperature via a IR-thermometer. With the old original stepper drivers i get 60°C for the y-axis and 66°C for the x-axis. With TMC2100 its 86°C for both. (Each temp measured at the heatsink)\n\",user77232,\"What constitutes too hot? A Hybrid stepper motor operating at 80 degrees is normal. They dissipate heat via their mounting plate (which should not be plastic), otherwise you may need to use active cooling. Now if the motors are dying from the heat then you have a problem.\n\",0.0,0.0\n8515,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user406482,1.726248027126092,3.304391138419485,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,Replicator 2x getting too hot with silent stepper drivers,\"I equipped my Makerbot Replicator 2x with silent stepper drivers TMC2100. According to the product page I reduced vref from 127 (factory default) to 25 in the printer settings as well as in my start-gcode.\n\nWith this i get horrible layershift (a few millimeters!), even if i reduce print- and travel-acceleration to 300. The layershift is mostly happening on y-axis, but also on x-axis. Not only layershift was happening, also the extruder-motors lost many steps.\n\nTo fight this problem I increased the vref little by little. At around 70 for x and y axis (and 50 for extruders) all layershift- and extrusion problems were gone. Also i had to install a dedicated fan for the stepper drivers, because they went very hot. \n\nI was happy with this solution for about 10 minutes, then I noticed that the stepper motors are getting so hot I burned my fingertips by touching them. My guess for the motor temperature would be 80~90°C.\n\nSo my question is: Are those TMC2100 stepper driver unsuitable for my usecase somehow or am I missing something? Is there a way to get the 3d printer silent while not overheating?\n\n\n\nEDIT:\n\nBehalf of your advice I mounted some heat sinks and measured the temperature via a IR-thermometer. With the old original stepper drivers i get 60°C for the y-axis and 66°C for the x-axis. With TMC2100 its 86°C for both. (Each temp measured at the heatsink)\n\",Krutav,\"Most Stepper drivers will have lots of energy passing through them so it is crucial to having a moderately sized heatsink to cool them off otherwise they will get too hot. Most stepper drivers found online come with heatsinks but you could search online for mini heatsinks.\n\",0.0,0.0\n8531,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Avel Maro,2.528907649931287,3.11657263068942,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,How do I calibrate temperature control in a Repetier firmware?,\"I have built a 3D printer using RAMPS 1.4. I am trying to raise the hotend temperature over 180 °C. But I can hardly get to 100 °C in 60 minutes. I applied power directly to the heater and I was able to get to 220 °C in about 15 minutes. What am I not doing right? Currently I think the PID isn't correctly calibrated. How do I do that with the Repetier firmware?\n\nP.S. I tried PID tuning but end with an error on timeout. \n\",0scar,\"When applying a voltage directly to the heater element, it should heat up very fast. You could measure the resistance of the heater element. A 12 V heater element of 40 Watt should have a resistance of about 3.6 Ω; you could test that with a multitester. If the resistance is a lot higher, the heater cartridge could be a 24 V heater element. Operating such element on 12 V would imply that the power output would only be 10 W. Heating of the hotend is much slower at low power output.\n\nIncorrect PID settings can indeed prevent the heater to heat up fast enough to trigger errors during tuning. The trick is to heat up the element a little prior to performing the tuning, or upload new PID settings to the firmware prior to tuning.\n\nPID settings can be set not only by uploading a modified firmware version (configuration file), but also by sending commands to the printer over serial terminal connection (e.g. Repetier host, OctoPrint, Pronterface, etc.) or stored in a G-code file and executing it (\"\"printing\"\"). The G-code command to set the PID values is M301. The relevant parameters are:\n\n\n Hnnn heater number Pnnn proportional (Kp) Innn integral (Ki) Dnnn\n derivative (Kd)\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n8534,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Elijah,2.528907649931287,3.241349471920412,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.7272071097011072,Why is 2 / -2 / 2 equal to -2 in OpenSCAD? (Mathematical Order of Operations),\"Recently I have been doing more complicated math in OpenSCAD and I have run into something that I find strange. Take a simple math expression: 2 / 2 / 2. By any programming language this will equal 0.5 (1/2), and OpenSCAD agrees. Something like this: 2 / -2 / 2 should also be -0.5 for the same reason. However, OpenSCAD thinks this is -2. That is echo(2 / -2 / 2); gives ECHO: -2. My calculator, other programming languages (and myself) all say its -0.5.\n\nIs this a quirk of OpenSCAD, or am I missing something obvious?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"I suspect the behavior you are seeing is an undocumented feature (aka, bug) of OpenSCAD. I've found in the latest stable release that if the - is placed on either end, the result is -0.5, but in the middle, my results are the same as yours. Surrounding the -2 with parentheses results in a correct answer, however.\n\nIt appears that the parentheses turns a mathematical operation into a signed integer. It follows that the operations without the parentheses is right to left:\n\n2/2 = 1, negative 1 with the minus, 2/-1 = -2\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n8534,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Elijah,2.528907649931287,3.241349471920412,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.7272071097011072,Why is 2 / -2 / 2 equal to -2 in OpenSCAD? (Mathematical Order of Operations),\"Recently I have been doing more complicated math in OpenSCAD and I have run into something that I find strange. Take a simple math expression: 2 / 2 / 2. By any programming language this will equal 0.5 (1/2), and OpenSCAD agrees. Something like this: 2 / -2 / 2 should also be -0.5 for the same reason. However, OpenSCAD thinks this is -2. That is echo(2 / -2 / 2); gives ECHO: -2. My calculator, other programming languages (and myself) all say its -0.5.\n\nIs this a quirk of OpenSCAD, or am I missing something obvious?\n\",Joel Coehoorn,\"I filed this issue as a bug with the OpenSCAD project, and there is now a fix merged into master, as well as a test case to prevent regression. The latest nightly builds should handle this correctly from here on out.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n8538,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,helpme,0.0,3.6260512276357146,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Prusa i3 MK3S Z axis moving down in calibration wizard,\"During recalibration of my printer (due to the nozzle catching on the prints), the Z-axis went down where it used to go up, damaging the heatbed steel sheet in the process. It then failed calibration.\nI didn't change the wiring since previous print although I re-adjusted the PINDA probe.\nWhat can I do to fix this?\n\",Greenonline,\"Answer taken from OP's comment\n\n\n\nthe issue has been resolved (the PINDA probe was too high) \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8539,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Daniel Cantarin,3.0576060275493275,3.7127158133162173,0.0,4.670422881206417,4.091740895605862,3.4319460411998994,Trouble printing small thin pole,\"3D-printing newbie here. I have a Geeetech's Prusa i3 mk2 B.\n\nI'm trying to print this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1358311\n\nThat's a mold, with 2 external parts and a core. The exterior prints wonderful. But the core is too messy. Take a look at this: \n\n\n\nWhat riddles me is that the side parts, and the pole's base, print fine; so this does not look like a bad calibrated printer, but something else entirely. My guess is this is some precise tuning I don't know yet. \n\nI've been trying to print that little pole without success for over a week now. Tried all this:\n\n\nChanging the slicer program (I've used Ultimaker Cura and Slic3r prusa edition)\nTuning the e-steps for avoiding over-extrusion.\nTuning the z-steps, so the nozzle doesn't melt the last layer when printing a new one.\nIn the same sense, changed the nozzle heat.\nTried lots of different layering, speed, walls, bridging, and quirks configurations.\n\n\nSo far, the best I got is a little pole not-too-deformed so I can make my part anyway, even when the pole is not well printed. But after seeing lots of videos and reading lots of tips online, I still don't understand how to tune my print for that simple little pole.\n\nOther that tips, what I would really like to ask is if somebody has a name for that problem I'm facing, so it would be much more easy to search for my tuning options.\n\nSo... any clue how to fix this? \n\",Trish,\"The thin core gathers too much heat in the printing process. If you need to print slender objects, either: \n\n\nPrint several. This is the most simple solution and best for beginners.\nIncrease cooling. A better cooling solution or increased fan speed often can help to get thin or delicate objects printed.\nset minimum layer time to slow down the printer automatically on layers with low cross-sections. If too small, it could pause on the edge of the print, which could leave scorch marks.\nIf you know a little more about your printer and got your retraction dialed in, you can go more advanced: set minimum layer time to 10 to 15 seconds and activate the accompanying Z-hop. This will prevent the scorch marks, but you might need to make sure you don't string.\n\n\nThis way the part has a chance to cool down between printing layers.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n8539,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Daniel Cantarin,3.0576060275493275,3.7127158133162173,0.0,4.670422881206417,4.091740895605862,3.4319460411998994,Trouble printing small thin pole,\"3D-printing newbie here. I have a Geeetech's Prusa i3 mk2 B.\n\nI'm trying to print this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1358311\n\nThat's a mold, with 2 external parts and a core. The exterior prints wonderful. But the core is too messy. Take a look at this: \n\n\n\nWhat riddles me is that the side parts, and the pole's base, print fine; so this does not look like a bad calibrated printer, but something else entirely. My guess is this is some precise tuning I don't know yet. \n\nI've been trying to print that little pole without success for over a week now. Tried all this:\n\n\nChanging the slicer program (I've used Ultimaker Cura and Slic3r prusa edition)\nTuning the e-steps for avoiding over-extrusion.\nTuning the z-steps, so the nozzle doesn't melt the last layer when printing a new one.\nIn the same sense, changed the nozzle heat.\nTried lots of different layering, speed, walls, bridging, and quirks configurations.\n\n\nSo far, the best I got is a little pole not-too-deformed so I can make my part anyway, even when the pole is not well printed. But after seeing lots of videos and reading lots of tips online, I still don't understand how to tune my print for that simple little pole.\n\nOther that tips, what I would really like to ask is if somebody has a name for that problem I'm facing, so it would be much more easy to search for my tuning options.\n\nSo... any clue how to fix this? \n\",0scar,\"Basically, you print too hot (and fast) without enough cooling. The deformed small pin in your image is a perfect example of depositing new layers onto too hot (not cooled down enough) prior layers.\n\nYou can easily solve this by printing two identical parts spaced apart from each other. This allows the layers to cool before the next is deposited. \n\nFrom mastering Ultimaker Cura:\n\n\n When printing a series of small parts, print them all together. The\n travel time between the parts is often enough time for the layers to\n cool without changing your settings.\n\n\nIf you do want this to print as a single piece, you need to:\n\n\ntune down hotend temperature (use the minimum temperature that gives good print results, printing a temperature tower will help to determine this), \nincrease minimal layer time (may not always work as speed will not be lowered under the minimum printing speed) and\nincrease part cooling fan percentage (or print a better fan duct that allows for more cooling air to reach the print; many fan ducts are too convergent, the pressure increase is then too big for the fan to effectively push air through it).\n\n\",3.5068404193471867,2.0769199823829045\n8545,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user3033693,2.1782824847157594,3.58733573019168,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,\"Temperature fluctuations, is it normal?\",\"I have an Anycubic i3 Mega-S and when I'm printing something (especially when it's hotter) the temperature increases and decreases by around 3 degrees during the print. Is this normal?\n\nI was worried this is a loose thermistor and if it comes out during a print my house will probably catch fire! I have no idea how to tighten it though.\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"All printers will have some fluctuation and it's not a concern. This is similar to the fluctuation you'll see in your home temperature around the thermostat setting. There are a couple reasons. One is that the feedback loop (thermistor to control board to heater to extruder block) will always have some lag. Another is that most systems have built-in \"\"hysteresis,\"\" i.e. set the \"\"turn off heat\"\" a couple degrees above the \"\"turn on heat\"\" thresholds. This avoids \"\"chatter\"\" from on to off right at the setpoint.\nSome thermistors (e.g. my AnetA8 clone) can be held in place with a setscrew. If yours doesn't have a similar capability, use Kapton tape to hold it in. This tape is designed for high temperature operations so it won't age or collapse, and it has good holding strength.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n10736,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user3033693,1.0891412423578797,1.978106507400733,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Printer doesn't lift Z between each probe,\"I don't remember making a change to marlin but today when I tried to probe my bed my Z probe homed and slowly went downwards until the probe detected the first point. then without lifting it it just kept moving over the other points without lifting or even moving the z.\n\nI canceled that and ran an M48, here's the output:\n\nRecv: 1 of 5: z: -0.497\nRecv: 2 of 5: z: -0.497\nRecv: 3 of 5: z: -0.497\nRecv: 4 of 5: z: -0.497\nRecv: 5 of 5: z: -0.497\nRecv: Finished!\nRecv: Mean: -0.497500 Min: -0.497 Max: -0.497 Range: 0.000\nRecv: Standard Deviation: 0.000000\nRecv: \nRecv: X:74.00 Y:191.00 Z:5.29 E:0.00 Count X:5920 Y:15280 Z:116\nRecv: ok\nRecv: echo:endstops hit: Z:0.29\n\n\nAny ideas on what's going on?\n\nThis is a link to my config files in a Dropbox folder.\n\nI have an Anycubic i3 Mega-S with a graphical LCD screen.\n\",user3033693,\"In my Pins.h folder turns out I needed to put a x-max pin. I hadn't defined that so it was randomly reading it as high. my printer thinking it can't go higher was freaking out basically :) this explains the other strange behavior i was experiencing!\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8561,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,R.Ogburn,2.1782824847157594,3.7187191665824897,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Adhesion issues using AmazonBasics PLA,\"I am a neophyte at 3D printing. My Ender 3 is now 4 days old and I modified it out of the box with a glass bed. My first print was a fairly complex item, but a mere 90 x 160 x 3.5 mm. Used the sample filament that was included with the 3, first print was a keeper. \n\nToday I was trying to use the AmazonBasics PLA 3D printer filament. I am not amused. I'm using the identical setup and glass bed as before but poor adhesion prevented a print.\n\nI cleaned the glass with acetone followed with 90 % IPA... No joy. Another cleaning using a dishwashing detergent and IPA, boo hiss! \n\nThe glass bed is a Creality for the Ender, purchased separately For the first print, no adhesive was used, just the glass (cleaned the glass prior to the first print as described).\n\nYour suggestions are solicited.\n\",Greenonline,\"Answer taken from OP's question\n\n\n\n****Fixed it!****\n\nReset bed height to clear nozzle by 0.04 mm. Printed on raft. I appreciate the answers.\n\",0.0,0.0\n8563,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,JackU,3.0576060275493275,3.6912794068058914,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Does PLA block wifi signals?,\"I printed a raspberry pi case from PLA. This case.\n\nI fitted it to my raspberry pi and now the wifi keeps dropping out. When I take it out of the case there is no problem. \n\nThe filament I am using is Black, 3D Hero 1.75mm.\n\nHas anyone experienced anything like this before, if so how did you work around it?\nIs it common with PLA is there another material that wouldn't cause an issue?\n\",The Thrifty Engineer,\"Typically the black pigments in polymers are mineral based. If you are having true WiFi issues then it sounds like your filiment is using black iron oxide also called magnetite for the black pigment. This is the same material they use in radar absorbing paints which would make sense as to why you are having radio related issues.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n8563,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,JackU,3.0576060275493275,3.6912794068058914,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Does PLA block wifi signals?,\"I printed a raspberry pi case from PLA. This case.\n\nI fitted it to my raspberry pi and now the wifi keeps dropping out. When I take it out of the case there is no problem. \n\nThe filament I am using is Black, 3D Hero 1.75mm.\n\nHas anyone experienced anything like this before, if so how did you work around it?\nIs it common with PLA is there another material that wouldn't cause an issue?\n\",Kjell,\"It could be several problems\n\n\nShielding from the material\nHeat\nMechanical load from the casing\nA metal screw next to the antenna\n\n\nTo learn more about the problem, comparing different configurations is the only way to got (As you guessed, it might be shielding, so you could see how the same shape works when printed in white PLA). Since comparing wifi signals is very prone to random changes, it is important to get better information than \"\"random drops\"\". Signal strength is a much better indicator.\n\nA wifi signal test is shown here, comparing a bare PI with one in a aluminum case\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=26OxCwEHoTk\nIndeed the aluminum case reduces the signal strength, as it was to expect.\n\nFor a faster comparison you can use the command 'iwconfig'. It usually shows a signal strength (Tx-Power)\n\n> iwconfig\nwlp4s0 IEEE 802.11 ESSID:off/any \n Mode:Managed Access Point: Not-Associated Tx-Power=20 dBm \n Retry short limit:7 RTS thr=2347 B Fragment thr:off\n Power Management:off\n\n\nA possible workaround might be to add an external antenna. The raspberry pi actually has solder points to add an antenna connector.\nhttps://www.mictronics.de/2017/10/raspberry-pi-3-with-external-antenna/\n\nHowever it might be simpler to produce several iterations of casings and compare the signal strength, depending on availability to SMD soldering.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8564,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,rafael gonzalez,1.0891412423578797,3.7066593323394814,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Can I use Araldite to stick PLA to metal frame?,\"I have a PLA base, that the MOSFETs are sitting on. I don't want to drill through the base of the printer, I was thinking of using Araldite to stick the PLA base to the metal frame. The PLA base will be stuck to the base of the 3D printer upside down. \n\nDo you think this will work long term? I don't want the plastic falling off and the MOSFETs hitting the metal base.\n\",Trish,\"Araldite is a brand that refers to a range of structural epoxy, acrylic and polyurethane adhesives. Among the vast number of products marketed under the name are also \"\"metal repair\"\" paste and what seems to be silicone based glues. Depending on what Araldite you have on hand, all of these types can be useful for PLA and any other 3D-printing material, as I had elaborated here. I suggest grabbing either an epoxy or PU variant or some kind of silicone for this use. You should make sure several things though if you go with epoxy or PU:\n\n\nmake a small sample print and clamp down one side, then put a small weight on the other side. Apply the glue in the center of it. If it sags considerably during the bonding, the heat of the glue curing is warm enough to soften the print. If this happens, you should take precautions to prevent it from deforming during the bonding, e.g. not apply too much pressure onto the bond.\nThe MOSFET can get rather hot. Make sure that the clamp holding the MOSFET still holds the item as it gets hot, as PLA starts to get malleable enough to deform under stress at 50 °C and usually fails quickly at about 100 °C. \n\n\nSilicone-based glues depend on an area to force ratio to stick but offer a flexible bond that is somewhat thermal resistant and very gap filling.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8568,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Matias Gonzalez,2.1782824847157594,2.9268557087492164,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,4pin fan on RAMPS board - direct?,\"The question is simple - I have a RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin 1.1.9 with the three MOSFETs being used (end, fan, bed), but I'd like to have a couple other Marlin-controlled fans. One of them would be a 4-pin, 6000RPM cooler I got from a dead graphics card. Seeing how it runs perfectly at 12V 350 mA if I keep the control pin disconnected (and ignore the sense pin too, of course), Could I connect 12V and GND directly to the PSU (or RAMPS 12V header) and the CONTROL pin to one of the pwm servo control pins like D11? Or do I need a resistor? \n\nI could add some info about the fan if needed, but it's a FirstD 4-pin, 12V 0.35A fan that can run up to 6000 RPM. \n\",towe,\"Yes, this should work.\n\nAccording to this 4-pin fan specification, such fans use a 5V PWM signal.\nYou would have to make sure the PWM frequency on the pin you use satisfies that 21-28 kHz range specified in the document.\n\nAccording to 3.3 and 3.4 in the document, you may not be able to turn the fan off completely when using the PWM input signal.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n8585,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Matias Gonzalez,1.726248027126092,3.8003227302020064,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Minimum MOSFET rating for MK3 heatbed,\"My printer (Prusa i3 Mk3 rework clone, with a 200 x 200 MK3 ALU-heatbed, RAMPS 1.4) has a car relay for heated bed control. It works just fine using bang-bang on Marlin, but I would like to replace it with a MOSFET anyways. The specialized MOSFET heating modules are way too expensive in my country, so I was thinking about buying a MOSFET that's good enough to handle my 12 V 10 A bed with Marlin's PWM. \n\nWould a MOSFET like the STP80NF70 be enough (0.01 Ω at vgs 10 V, 68 V 100 A) or would one of the bigger ones, e.g. in TO-3P encapsulation be needed?\n\nIt would go in a proper heatsink and ran at 12 V with an optocoupler\n\",cmm,\"and welcome to the Stack Exchange 3D Printing site.\n\nLet's look at the specs compared with the requirements.\n\nHow much power is used by the heated bed? You have specified 120W (12V, 10A). That information makes it easy! On my homebrew printer it is higher, but that seems like a good high limit for a typical i3-style design.\n\nSo, the MOSFET you propose, assuming you completely turn it on, will dissipate 0.01 ohms * 10A^2, or 1 watt. This will warm the part, and you probably should attach it to a heat sink, which could be as simple as the existing extrusions. There is a much more complete answer to this exact question on the Electrical Engineering Stack Exchange site: Dissipating 1W on a TO-220 without heatsink?\n\nI doubt the PID frequency is higher than 40 KHz. Since the Vgs rating you referenced is specified with 10V on the gate, you can't drive that directly from an Arduino pin. You need another driver transistor (NPN or FET) to drive the power FET gate. The turn-on time for the power FET will be determined (in the simplest circuit) by the pull-up resistor to +12v connected to the output of the transistor and the gate of the FET.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n9911,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Matias Gonzalez,0.0,2.350144896401575,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,TMC2130 External VM RAMPS1.4,\"I'm attempting to replace my DRV8825's with TMC2130's on a Prusa i3 rework clone, 12v RAMPS1.4. motor currents have been accounted for. Since they don't work as well with 12V than with higher voltages, I bought a 10-50V 10A DC-DC converter to power the drivers (and steppers ofc). On the RAMPS this is done simply by taking the VM pin out and soldering it on the other side to draw power from an external source. \n\nIt is stated everywhere that VM should be powered BEFORE VIO. Would it be valid to switch on a relay with the dc-dc converter and connect the VIO pin to RAMPS 5v through it? Is it enough having both sources turn on at roughly the same time? I haven't found any indication on how much time there should be in between (or if there needs to be any).\n\nPlease tell me your own experience if you have attempted something similar, or any alternatives (Aside from buying a new board, because I'll eventually build a CoreXY or something else) that may be valid. thanks\n\",Roberto Lo Giacco,\"First of all, I'm not talking on a first-hand experience: I don't own a RAMPS based printer.\nIf I were you and wish to be 100% sure the setup you are describing doesn't blow up in my face I would use a spare pin on the Mega to drive the relay which, in turn, drive the 24V source line. In terms of delay I would use a couple of seconds after power on: enough time to have the bootscreen completes and all the pins being set as per firmware configuration.\n\",0.0,0.0\n8586,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Adrián Juárez,2.528907649931287,3.750828068866707,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,What is the correct process to make a correct resin casting for jewelry?,\"I have a 3D printer and I have printed some models with castable resin. When I burn one of these models in the oven and then do the metal casting, the surface of the metal piece is not smooth.\n\nI did a test with a pan. I put a model of wax and a model of castable resin to heat in a pan, and the wax model melts, but the resin model don't.\n\nThe resin I have is the following:\n\n\n\nWhat is the correct process to make a correct resin casting?\n\nThanks for your help.\n\",Trish,\"Traditional lost molds.\n\nThe reason many jewelers use wax for making the molds for lost mold casting is, that it has (compared to plastic molding materials) a very low melting and boiling point, allowing to create molds with much lower temperature equipment. \n\nA variant of green sand casting is done with materials that very quickly decompose in contact with the molten metal or that burn out after setting fire to them. Very common in this context is foamed styrene. Styrene melts and burns easily so it is easy to use in this way.\n\nPLA has been used in some experiments as a positive and then molten out in a baking oven. It and other printing filaments are usually thermoplastics, so melting them out is similar to wax.\n\nResin is not soft wax or a thermoplastic.\n\nNo, in fact, most resins are a duroplastic, meaning that they don't melt.\n\nIf you print a positive from resin and then make a mold from that for lost mold casting, you go the traditional way. But most resins don't melt out the way wax does, and on contact with molten metal don'T evaporate the way wax residue does. You got to properly burn out the remains of the cured resin at a higher temperature and for a longer time than the wax as the melting point is much higher - use a proper burning oven. A proper burning oven in this relation reaches something like an email oven (1100 °C) or a clay burning oven (up to 1800 °C)\n\nPutting the molds with the opening down into one of these ovens at high temperature should help a lot. Make sure to put a spacer and a tray below to allow better airflow and get the resin out.\n\nChemical Club.\n\nBesides heat to destroy the resin, most resins could be solved by very highly aggressive chemicals. Which chemical works highly depends on what the resin actually is - if it is epoxy resin it would be the highly toxic CH2Cl2 while polyester resin is soluble in isopropanol and sulphuric acid.\n\nCold alternative?\n\nIf your product is to be made of a two-component resin or a ceramic that can be shaped cold and that sustains form, then you might also look at silicone molding. This is not an alternative for most metal castings. Among the very few exceptions is pewter, as PunishedPropsAcademy and Evan&Katelyn showed in their video and there are high temp silicones around that could be used repeatedly for pewter.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8586,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Adrián Juárez,2.528907649931287,3.750828068866707,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,What is the correct process to make a correct resin casting for jewelry?,\"I have a 3D printer and I have printed some models with castable resin. When I burn one of these models in the oven and then do the metal casting, the surface of the metal piece is not smooth.\n\nI did a test with a pan. I put a model of wax and a model of castable resin to heat in a pan, and the wax model melts, but the resin model don't.\n\nThe resin I have is the following:\n\n\n\nWhat is the correct process to make a correct resin casting?\n\nThanks for your help.\n\",0scar,\"Factually, the correct process is to heat up the mold hot enough to evaporate the positive. \n\nIn investment casting the process to remove the wax or plastic positive is called the \"\"Dewax\"\" and \"\"Burnout preheating\"\".\n\nThe answer to your question depends on the material you use to generate a negative mold of the positive product. E.g. many silicate based materials require up to about 1100 °C to fully burnout all residue before pouring in the liquid metal.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8602,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dwayne Bailey,1.0891412423578797,2.7548616721246675,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Print initial layer only on outside of print,\"I am using Ultimaker Cura to print what are essentially cookie cutters - a thin wall that is a silhouette of the shape. I would like to have a broader surface for the top. In Ultimaker Cura, I set it to print a wider \"\"initial layer\"\" but this initial layer is printed both inside and outside the print. Is there a setting I can use to print the initial layer outside the print? I am using Fusion 360 to create the model and would like to avoid having to build this separate layer for every model I build, unless it can be done fairly easily as these shapes will vary for each model.\n\nAs an additional question, what would be the best way to split an image into individual pieces - one for the outline of the whole shape and individual pieces for each distinct part of the image, say eyes, nose, mouth - that you would use to build the image after you cut out the pieces? I've tried using InkScape but I am not able to get it to divide them into clean pieces.\n\",Dwayne Bailey,\"The solution to getting the brim set up was to select the area for each individual piece (in GIMP), then duplicate that selection and \"\"grow\"\" it to make it larger to create the lip. From there, I extruded the larger section a few millimeters and extruded the smaller selection on top of that and hollowed it out. Still working on the exact measurements to achieve the lip width and height, but the process is in place.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8615,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Rhezner,2.1782824847157594,3.247326609336232,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Error when trying to upload firmware to cr-10,\"I've been having trouble uploading the TH3DUF_R2 firmware to my CR-10. I've already successfully flashed the bootloader using my Arduino, but when I try to upload the bootloader I get this error:\n\navrdude: ser_open(): can't set com-state for \"\"\\\\.\\COM4\"\"\n\nThings I've tried:\n\n\nChanging the usb drivers\nChanging the baud rate\nUsing a different computers without any other usb devices\n\n\nMy printer is not functional right now with just a bootloader and no firmware, so I'm not really sure where to go from here.\n\",Greenonline,\"Two possible solutions are given in this thread: Upload error: avrdude: ser_open(): can't set com-state for \"\"\\.\\COM17\"\"\n\nThis post says:\n\n\n i am able to fix this problem very easily... just press reset button on arduino and unplug from usb and go to the arduino software installation directory (c:/program files/ arduino) and open drivers folder and open \n dpinst-amd64 by double clicking on it and just install that if it not runs may be your system runs with 32bit and open the file below the previously opened file and install it again.. close arduino programming software and open it again and choose your board and com ports and now it should upload to your board...enjoy...\n\n\nOr try the solution from this post:\n\n\n I could fix this problem! Maybe this solution will works for you:\n \n \n in device manager I had unnistalled the drivers that I had. After reconnect it then it appears in \"\"Other dispositives\"\" with the name\n \"\"USB 2.0Serial\"\". There are cases that it appears like \"\"FT232RUSB\n UART\"\".\n my serial conversor chip on arduino uno board is \"\"CH340G\"\". Check this on your controller boards because others like \"\"CN480661\"\" has\n another fix method. If you can't find this chip maybe this video could\n help you (in spanish, sorry, is where i found the solution):\n https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F4ar5sjbZFg\n download the drivers \"\"CH341SE\"\" from this url: https://www.dropbox.com/s/3csnhlsbdrznbp3/CH341SER.zip?dl=0 and then\n decompress it in a folder\n in device manager check whether the arduino is shown (reconnect it for that if you didn't do it in `step 1) then do right click -> update\n software -> browse software in the computer -> examine or browse\n Now you have to search the folder in which you decompress the drivers (step 3). After then pulse accept, ignore any advertice and\n continue. Then it will install the drivers and you will be able to use\n your arduino.\n \n \n NOTE: If in this last step windows has an error you need to enable the\n unknown digital signature installation. check other tutorials for this\n\n\nThese seem to be the only two solutions that worked for other people experiencing the same issue.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8616,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,James Hanvey,2.8153892694839717,6.315360786547555,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.9505769891325135,Creality Ender 3 printer power consumption?,\"Anyone have any idea how much power it takes to run a Creality Ender 3 3d printer every day for several hours at a time? Like what does it eat up per hour? A rough estimate of power use per hour would be nice, then I can figure out how much it costs me. Can anyone help me?\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"If it is really important to you to know how much you are spending per any given print, your best bet is not to guess, but to know how much power you're using. To that end, you could purchase a power meter which monitors your power usage. Given the right one, it can even calculate the cost of the power usage all in one little package. This link, The 10 Best Electricity Usage Monitors, should provide you some ideas as to what you might find, but I'm sure there are plenty more out there (NOTE: I have no affiliation to the link provided ... it was just a random one I found through a Google search ... Go Go Google-Fu!). \n\nAs 0scar pointed out in his comment, there are just too many variables to try and guess what the power consumption might be. If you are looking for a real answer, I believe something along the lines as I've linked above is going to be your best solution to getting a real answer. Anything else is more or less just a guess.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n8616,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,James Hanvey,2.8153892694839717,6.315360786547555,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.9505769891325135,Creality Ender 3 printer power consumption?,\"Anyone have any idea how much power it takes to run a Creality Ender 3 3d printer every day for several hours at a time? Like what does it eat up per hour? A rough estimate of power use per hour would be nice, then I can figure out how much it costs me. Can anyone help me?\n\",Robert,\"The Ender 3 has a 360W power supply. This is the maximum power the printer can use. However, if engineered correctly, it should never actually reaches this level of consumption to prevent premature failure of the power supply. It will use the most power during initial warm up, which is a relatively short amount of time. Then the average power consumption will drop considerably once at temperature. So, 120W per hour seems a reasonable estimate.\n\nIt turns out that if you are paying 11.4 cents per kWh (which is a nominal price in the US) the price of running something 24 hours a day is \\$1 per Watt per Year. So if you ran your printer all year long nonstop it would cost \\$120 per year or \\$10 per month.\n\nSince you live in New York, you probably pay about 1.5 times as much for electricity or 17.1 cents per kWh. So you'd multiply the figures above by 1.5, so you would get \\$15 per month. Also, you don't use your printer 24 hours a day. Let's say you want to print an average of 8 hours a day. That's 1/3 of the day, so you'd divide your figure by 3 and get \\$5 per month. You'd hardly notice a difference in your electric bill.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n8619,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,W5VO,1.0891412423578797,3.3416816473626416,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Odd print artifacts on same layer as large top surface,\"I printed the following object (I'm printing the single opening version, Flower_pot_3.STL), and observed an unusual print artifact. I would like some idea of what's going on so I can avoid it in the future. The object is essentially an open-top box. In the image below, you can see a ridge along the bottom of the print. This corresponds to the upper surface of the bottom side of the box. The ridge is present for 4 layers, the same number of layers on the top surface. The defect is basically a positive ridge all the way around (not a layer shift). The G-code render below is for the top layer of the bottom surface.\n\nSystem Settings\n\n\nPrinter is Prusa Mk3, with white PLA plastic. Nozzle is HS steel at 210 °C\n0.2 mm Layer height, 15 % Gyroid infill, 3 perimeters\nPerimeters are printed first each layer, with the outer perimeter coming last.\n - \n\n\n\n\n\n\nIdeally, I would like to know what caused this artifact, and what I could do to avoid it in the future. I can add more information as requested.\n\",anthony yaghi,\"Just a guess here. If I understood correctly the deformation is at the first layer of the box bottom, it seems highly unlikely that it randomly happened at this exact position so I am assuming that if you do the print again you will get the same deformation at the same place (you can test this maybe ? I know it is a long print). In this case it is more likely that is a slicer issue than something with your machine and it could also be a problem with the stl model. Maybe try to create a small simple box then slice it using the same setting and try to see if you can reproduce artifact.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8624,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Julian,2.528907649931287,3.759329766816229,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Strange outer skin print quality on Ender 3,\"Does anybody have an idea what causes the strange outer wall skin texture? I don't know why this happens; the inner wall looks fine, but the outer wall looks distorted. \n\nAlso it's strange that the distortion only happens on the left side for about 2 cm on all prints.\n\nDisabling retraction had no effect. Reducing the printing speed neither improved it.\n\n\n\n\nEdit: I'm printing at 0.16mm layer height with 98% initial flow rate and 94%. No support.\nStandard PLA with the standard nozzle at 190°C. I am using Cura for slicing if it matters.\n\nPrinting speed is at 40mm/s for the outer wall and 80mm/s for the inner one. I already tried to decrease the outer wall speed to 20mm/s without any luck. Except for one other print, I never had an issue with those settings.\n\nI just finished a print with 100% flow rate to exclude its the flow rate.\nWith 100% only the front improved at all.\n\n\n\",Roberto Lo Giacco,\"My best guess is you have an under extrusion issue, possibly related to retraction: the issue is exacerbated on parts where the printer has to hop over a gap.\n\nI would try running, in the order:\n\n\nprint a flow rate test, to ensure the amount of filament exiting the nozzle matches with your configuration\nprint a retraction test, to ensure you are not suffering from some bowden tube issues like bad coupling\ncheck for any clog in the hot end, those can require a bigger pressure to build up before the filament start flowing again\nprint a temperature tower, to find out if 190° is the right temperature (seems a bit low to me)\n\n\nWith regards to point 2, the Ender 3 is somewhat renown for having poor quality couplers: watch the bowden tube couplers when printing and try to verify the tube is not moving back and forth when hopping over empty spaces...\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8626,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trey Hope,1.726248027126092,4.31211844916221,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Palette 2 with an Ender 3 Printer,\"Has anyone had any luck with printing multi-colored prints with the Palette 2 on an Ender 3? If so, what is your steps/mm for the Ender 3 and your flow rate in whatever slicer you are using? I currently have my flow rate at 100 % and my steps/mm at 104.4, and I believe this is what is causing my Palette 2 to not produce accurate results.\n\n\n\nAbout the Palette 2\n\nPalette 2 is a separate device providing one multi color filament out of multiple single color filaments.\n\nAs the Ender 3 does not support multi-colour printing, that's why I'm using the Palette 2. It allows any printer to print in multi color as it adds multi color printing to single extruder printers. \n\",Greenonline,\"On this thread, Does anyone tried Palette 2.0 on Creality Ender 3 or Ender 3 Pro?, there are a couple of useful links:\n\n\nThere is a video, albeit for the CR-101, but that should be of help: YouTube - Setup Guide: Creality CR-10 with Palette 2;\nIn addition, this Facebook group, Mosaic Palette, Palette+, Palette 2 (Pro) Users, apparently has some users who have paired their Ender 3 with the Palette 2.\n\n\nHowever, with respect to your question about the flow rate and steps/mm, there isn't much info out there about that, and no one seems to have experienced similar issues, but your issue might have something to do with profiles - which, as you haven't mentioned them in your question, it is hard to know if that might be the issue or not. \n\nIn the same thread, this post, states:\n\n\n I use it with the Ender 3. There is a profile in Canvas and Chroma for it also. \n\n\nThis link here, Chroma for Palette 2, states that after using Cura, you then need to load the G-code file into Chroma v3.1, after having selected the appropriate profile. However, if you use Canvas, then there is no need for Cura nor Chroma, as Canvas can slice. This link goes through the whole process for Benchy.\n\n\n\nAt the risk of repetition, the process for preparing the print, post-slicing, is also given here, from Multicolor 3D Printing How To: Using the Mosaic Palette+ with the Creality Ender 3, albeit slightly different from the link above:\n\n\n Setting Up Chroma:\n \n When you load up Chroma, you’ll be presented with a blank canvas ready\n to be filled with your 3D creations. In the top left corner, make\n sure that you have the Ender 3 selected from the drop down menu. \n After this you can click Load Print. From there you’ll be presented\n with your gcode files that you have on your computer. \n \n In this example we will be selecting the butterfly-1.gcode file, and\n clicking Open. From here Chroma will be compiling and arranging the\n settings for the gcode file to be displayed. This might take a minute\n or more.\n \n Selecting Your Colors:\n \n Once the loading is completed, you will be presented with the 3D\n rendering of our butterfly! This butterfly will be in 4 randomly\n selected colors by default, but we will be changing this next! To\n change the colors, navigate to the top of the screen where you will\n see 4 colored circles, and drop down arrows along with each circle. \n These circles represent the colors of each tool head.\n \n To change the color, click on the Tool Head Colored Circle, and your\n options for color will appear, we’re going to select Black for our\n first color. After this, you will want to select the Default PLA\n Settings by clicking the Drop Down Arrow to the right of the first\n Tool Head Colored Circle. \n \n As we make these changes you will notice that the 3D rendering of our\n butterfly will change to our corresponding colors. Repeat this\n process for the remaining 3 Tool Heads, remember to use the Default\n PLA Settings for each Tool Head.\n \n Saving Your Project:\n \n After you have selected all your colors, you will click Save for\n Printer in the top right corner of Chroma. From there, name your\n file, and click Save. You will be then presented with a loading bar\n as Chroma prepares our 2 output files. One of the files will be an\n adjusted gcode file that has added the purge tower we just modified,\n and the other file will be a file that goes straight to the Mosaic\n Palette+.\n \n Printing Your Project:\n \n Once the files are ready, you will be presented with a screen that\n says “Ready to Print!”. On this screen you will be presented with the\n files you have created for your project, which for us are the\n butterfly-1.msf which goes to the Mosaic Palette+ and the\n butterfly-1.msf.gcode file which is your newly created gcode file.\n You will also be presented with “Materials Used” for the project,\n “Number of Splices” for the project, and “Number of Pings” for the\n project.\n \n After this, you will need to turn your Creality Ender 3 on if it isn’t\n already. After making sure that you have all your components set up\n and assembled correctly, then it is safe to begin the printing\n process.\n \n Depending on your specific project will determine how long the\n printing process takes. But once your printing process is complete\n you will be presented with your beautiful multicolored 3D butterfly\n (or whatever your project was)! After printing is finished, you\n should let the project cool before you attempt to remove it from the\n tray. Once it has cooled you can now gently pry the project off of the\n tray.\n\n\n\n\nFootnotes\n\n1 The CR-10 is, on a broader level, an Ender-3 with 2 lead screws and a slightly different board.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8626,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Trey Hope,1.726248027126092,4.31211844916221,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Palette 2 with an Ender 3 Printer,\"Has anyone had any luck with printing multi-colored prints with the Palette 2 on an Ender 3? If so, what is your steps/mm for the Ender 3 and your flow rate in whatever slicer you are using? I currently have my flow rate at 100 % and my steps/mm at 104.4, and I believe this is what is causing my Palette 2 to not produce accurate results.\n\n\n\nAbout the Palette 2\n\nPalette 2 is a separate device providing one multi color filament out of multiple single color filaments.\n\nAs the Ender 3 does not support multi-colour printing, that's why I'm using the Palette 2. It allows any printer to print in multi color as it adds multi color printing to single extruder printers. \n\",Greenonline,\"The guide is at Getting Started With Palette 2 (Setup to Printing), which includes guides to use the correct slicer software and swapping the firmware. \n\nThe latter part may be a little bit of an ordeal on the Ender3 as there is no bootloader on it - however, it is not apparent from the instruction, whether this would be an issue or not - it seems to be a fairly simple process.\n\n\n \n Open your Palette 2 package and remove your Palette 2 unit and USB cable. Connect your Palette 2 to your computer.\n \n To help the updater recognize the port for your Palette, try\n unplugging other USB devices.\n Download our Firmware Installer for your operating system. \n \n Latest Palette Firmware V. 4.2.3 (Mar 14, 2019)\n \n \n Windows (x32 or x64) Download\n macOS Download\n Linux (x64, Tested on Ubuntu 16.04) Download1 \n \n Follow the on-screen instructions and click \"\"Install Latest\"\"\n Once the firmware is updated, you will receive the Success message, and you can unplug your unit from your computer.\n \n \n \n \n 1 For Linux users, please refer to this support article.\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n8627,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bill Waslo,1.726248027126092,2.9362955533623216,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Is there any (relatively simple) way to determine whether a stepper is being directed to move by the voltage signal across its winding?,\"This may be a long shot, but I was wondering if the signals seen across a stepper motor's windings could indicate whether the stepper was being told to move over some short time period. This is in particular for the stepper used on extruders.\n\nI've read that PWM in used in stepper drivers and controls current patterns to move the motor. And that a current must also be maintained through the windings if the motor is to hold its position. So it would seem that there is always a pulsing waveform across the windings whenever the stepper is energized, correct? When the motor is holding its position, is there anything distinctive about the waveform?\n\nThis is for a filament sensor I'd like to make. The sensor would be located at the extruder motor. It would monitor movement/flow of the solid filament. A lack of filament flow could be because of filament runout, tangled or caught filament, or non-extruding travel moves. I'd like to be able to tell the first two causes from the last one (when it's not supposed to be extruding for some hundreds of milliseconds or so). It would also be nice to tell 'no directed movement' from 'very slow movement' which would happen with small nozzles, slow speed or other slow extrusion situations.\n\nI watched the waveforms with an oscilloscope while printing, but travel moves were quick and relatively rare, so I couldn't definitely see if there was something I could use during those times. Could I just filter the pulse waveform (what corner frequency?) to get an approximation of the current waveform going through the coils -- on the idea that the waveform should resemble a DC level during non-extruding but still energized times. Perhaps another low-pass filtering of that DC level, or a high-pass of the waveform to indicate directed extrusion? Using DSP on a micro, of course.\n\nAre there any experts here on the subject of low-level stepper motor control?\n\",cmm,\"There is nothing you can do to monitor the extruder stepper motor to assure that filament is being fed when it should be fed. A common condition is where the filament binds but the extruder stepper continues to move as commanded. The drive pully strips the dents it presses in the filament, and grinds down the filament. The extruder still steps, and the filament does not.\n\nYou can reduce this for particular filaments by increasing the pressure on the filament by the drive pully, but the optimum pressure varies with the filament. For instance, I've found that PET needs a lesser pressure than PLA.\n\n@User77232 suggests using a separate rotary encoder to detect the motion of the filament through a different sensor. This may be better, since you can detect a filament jam with extruder motion. If you are using a PTFE tube to deliver filament to the extruder, the encoder can be mounted at the other end of the tube. You may need to make allowance for some compression and stretch of the filament in the tube, which could delay detecting \"\"lack of movement\"\".\n\nI had hoped that the Triaminic TMC2100 chips (spec here) would provide detection of drive torque by watching the back EMF, but reading the spec didn't look helpful. There was an old patent (that should be long expired) that detected the current needed to move a stepper motor to achieve faster acceleration and quieter operation, but I didn't find on the Triaminic driver a useful torque limit signal. If one could detect the torque required, one could set a peek torque value that is lower than the initial filament strip torque.\n\nPerhaps one could mount the extruder stepper motor with a compliant mount, perhaps something like a TPU or rubber material, and use a strain gauge to measure the stretch of the mount.\n\",0.0,0.0\n8627,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bill Waslo,1.726248027126092,2.9362955533623216,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Is there any (relatively simple) way to determine whether a stepper is being directed to move by the voltage signal across its winding?,\"This may be a long shot, but I was wondering if the signals seen across a stepper motor's windings could indicate whether the stepper was being told to move over some short time period. This is in particular for the stepper used on extruders.\n\nI've read that PWM in used in stepper drivers and controls current patterns to move the motor. And that a current must also be maintained through the windings if the motor is to hold its position. So it would seem that there is always a pulsing waveform across the windings whenever the stepper is energized, correct? When the motor is holding its position, is there anything distinctive about the waveform?\n\nThis is for a filament sensor I'd like to make. The sensor would be located at the extruder motor. It would monitor movement/flow of the solid filament. A lack of filament flow could be because of filament runout, tangled or caught filament, or non-extruding travel moves. I'd like to be able to tell the first two causes from the last one (when it's not supposed to be extruding for some hundreds of milliseconds or so). It would also be nice to tell 'no directed movement' from 'very slow movement' which would happen with small nozzles, slow speed or other slow extrusion situations.\n\nI watched the waveforms with an oscilloscope while printing, but travel moves were quick and relatively rare, so I couldn't definitely see if there was something I could use during those times. Could I just filter the pulse waveform (what corner frequency?) to get an approximation of the current waveform going through the coils -- on the idea that the waveform should resemble a DC level during non-extruding but still energized times. Perhaps another low-pass filtering of that DC level, or a high-pass of the waveform to indicate directed extrusion? Using DSP on a micro, of course.\n\nAre there any experts here on the subject of low-level stepper motor control?\n\",user77232,\"\n So it would seem that there is always a pulsing waveform across the windings whenever the stepper is energized, correct?\n\n\nCorrect.\n\n\n When the motor is holding its position, is there anything distinctive about the waveform?\n\n\nYes there is. This video contains a short example of what the current waveforms would look like.\n\nIf I understand you correctly: You want to detect filament events based by doing current sensing on the phases of the stepper motor. The simple of it is that, if the motor is not turning then the Back ElectroMotive Force will be zero. As the speed increases the BEMF goes up, which causes the current levels to go down. Is this how stall detection in some driver systems work.\n\nYou may be able to determine if what you want to do is even practical by studying the fundamentals of stepper motor driving; both voltage mode and current mode.\n\nApart from that it may be just as practical to use a rotary encoder upstream of the extruder motor to detect the filament movement, or lack thereof.\n\nIn your case detecting if the filament is present but not moving calls for stall detection. If the PWM pulse occurs but the rate at which the voltage increased (the slope) did not change, then there was no BEMF event. The lack of such an event would indicate that the rotor did not move. If there is no filament to push, then when the rotor moves it will ring (overshoot it's target position and fluctuate back and forth until it settles into the electrical position that the controller intended), because the mechanical load has changed.\n\nFor a NEMA17 stepper, these would be very small change in a very brief event. I would start with installing current sensors on both phases, and then doing some signal processing on top of that. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8629,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ABHIGHNA SHARMA,2.1782824847157594,3.087132483714226,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Filament Length too short for extruder to push filament,\"When filament is too short for the extruder to push will there be a stop in printing on the Ender 3, meaning that I should replace the filament when the end of the filament is near the extruder?\n\",Trish,\"The extruder can't push anymore when the filament is past the extruder gear. If your filament has run out to that point, the print will not halt but print without a filament, meaning that the print will fail. You need to pause the print in time and then put fresh filament into the printer.\n\nIf the end of the filament is cut flat at the end and the new one is flat too, the new filament can push the old one out to the nozzle, reducing the waste to a minimum, if you can live without retraction for the amount of length that has to be used up. You could friction weld the two parts together to alleviate this.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n8629,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ABHIGHNA SHARMA,2.1782824847157594,3.087132483714226,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Filament Length too short for extruder to push filament,\"When filament is too short for the extruder to push will there be a stop in printing on the Ender 3, meaning that I should replace the filament when the end of the filament is near the extruder?\n\",Levi Giesbrecht,\"When the end of the filament is beyond the reach of the hobbed stepper gear, your print will stop extruding. Some printers (i.e. Prusa i3, Craftbot 3, etc) have runout sensors. These sensors can be a switch or some form of a circuit that is broken when the filament isn't there to close it (I'm no mechatronics engineer or anything, so my terminology may be a bit off). When these switches are tripped, the printer automatically pauses the print, allowing you to come and rescue it. Fancier printers like the Craftbot 3 will actually send you an email when your filament runs out or even jams! Of course, that machine is over $3600CAD, and well out of most peoples price range. The Ender 3, being around 300 dollars, is not equipped with a runout sensor. Switches and 3D printing files to make your own are either cheap or free.\n\nAnd yes, some filament may need to be wasted if you do a swap. Direct drive extruders have the same problem but at a much smaller scale. If you just feed new filament into your machine, you will lose all retraction (which is annoying) until the second length of filament is in. At the point where the filament switches, (depending on your extruder and print speed) you may get a small patch of under extrusion. Nothing that will seriously compromise part strength, but it won't be super pretty.\n\nHope that helps!\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8635,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Perry Webb,1.726248027126092,3.5837050697726562,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,What is the reinforcement for 3D printing concrete cement?,\"When houses are printed with concrete cement what replaces the steel rebar for reinforcement?\n\nHere's a link referencing printing concrete: https://www.aniwaa.com/house-3d-printer-construction/\n\n\n House 3D printers use extrusion technology. Some construction 3D printers look like super-sized desktop FFF/FDM 3D printers (gantry style), whereas others consist of a rotating mechanical arm.\n \n In both cases, paste-type components such as concrete are used as filament. The material is pushed out of a special nozzle to form layers. To put it (very) simply, paste extrusion is similar using a piping bag to spread frosting on a cake.\n \n The printer creates the foundations and walls of the house or building, layer by layer. The ground is literally the printer’s build plate. Some concrete 3D printers, however, are used to 3D print brick molds. When molded, the bricks are then piled atop each other manually (or with a robotic arm). \n\n\nLike most of the people here my experience is with a printer (RepRap) that can use PLA or ABS. With all the materials normally put into concrete, using an extrusion printer to print concrete is puzzling.\n\",0scar,\"To answer your question, they use steel or fiber glass.\n\nWhy does concrete need reinforcement? Concrete is very useful to absorb compression loads, but breaks and cracks very easily when subjected to tension loads. Rebar, or steel constructions are added to strengthen the concrete to bear the tension loads. My house has walls that are littered with steel wires/fibers of about 10 cm (about 4 inches) and about 1.5 mm in diameter close to the surface (drilling holes into the wall frequently means hitting such a fiber which comes out and leaves a scar on the wall...). My walls are constructed in a factory flat on the ground, those fibers are added to prevent shrink cracks in the first layer of the wall (the side you always look at); after that, rebar is added and the rest of the wall is cast and after drying the wall is put upright and transported to the build site.\n\nInjection of fibers is not new to 3D printing; it is already possible to print short fibers embedded in filament, or continuous where filament and thermoplastic material join together in the nozzle. The company I work for creates molds and aerospace parts this way.\n\nYou can imagine that it would be possible to print concrete with fibers/wires or continuously with wires. Technically this should be feasible, but I guess that larger diameter wire (rebar) is actually needed instead of relatively small diameter wires. Also, fibers can only be laid down in the direction of travel of the nozzle, not perpendicular to. Rebar often shows strengthening in multiple (three) dimensions, that is not possible with 3D printing.\n\nThere is some reported success on printing reinforced concrete:\n\nAccording to BAM Infra:\n\n\n “They have succeeded in developing a process to also print the steel\n reinforcement at the same time. When laying a strip of concrete the\n concrete printer adds a steel cable so that the slab is ‘prestressed’\n so that no tensile stress can occur in the concrete.”\n\n\n\n\nBut this means that the print is a part printed at another location, not on location.\n\nThere is also some success with using horizontal fiberglass reinforcements within the walls during the printing process.\n\nSee e.g. this reference, this reference for more information on reinforced concrete printing. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n8635,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Perry Webb,1.726248027126092,3.5837050697726562,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,What is the reinforcement for 3D printing concrete cement?,\"When houses are printed with concrete cement what replaces the steel rebar for reinforcement?\n\nHere's a link referencing printing concrete: https://www.aniwaa.com/house-3d-printer-construction/\n\n\n House 3D printers use extrusion technology. Some construction 3D printers look like super-sized desktop FFF/FDM 3D printers (gantry style), whereas others consist of a rotating mechanical arm.\n \n In both cases, paste-type components such as concrete are used as filament. The material is pushed out of a special nozzle to form layers. To put it (very) simply, paste extrusion is similar using a piping bag to spread frosting on a cake.\n \n The printer creates the foundations and walls of the house or building, layer by layer. The ground is literally the printer’s build plate. Some concrete 3D printers, however, are used to 3D print brick molds. When molded, the bricks are then piled atop each other manually (or with a robotic arm). \n\n\nLike most of the people here my experience is with a printer (RepRap) that can use PLA or ABS. With all the materials normally put into concrete, using an extrusion printer to print concrete is puzzling.\n\",Sjoerd,\"There is no reinforcement. You can use this ‘printing’ solution for walls but by default not for floors. There are experiments that use the solution to span a gap but they use relatively thick plates. \n\nFor example, see this paper, Design of a 3D printed concrete bridge by testing. \n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n8709,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Perry Webb,1.0891412423578797,3.636240664748639,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.1827783713261073,0.42741039782645945,How do I get circles on small interior holes to adhere to the bed?,\"I’m using a RepRap printer, PLA (Hatchbox 1.75 mm), SketchUp, and Slic3r. The heated bed is covered with a blue polyester sticker. When I print small holes (1 to 1.5 mm radius), slicer software considers the holes outside edges for the first layer and prints them before the internal first layer. The problem is, unlike the actual outer edges, the holes have no brim and the small first layer circles stick to the extruder rather than the bed. The rest of the first layer print sticks and the print eventually recovers with slight defects depending on where the lifted circles end up. If I could print the first layer circles after the surrounding first layer was printed, this wouldn’t be an issue. I’ve tried different bed and extrusion temperatures. All four holes in different locations do the same. First layer is 0.3 mm thick. Second layer is 0.2 mm thick. \n\",user77232,\"Print at 5% of the print speed, and ramp up cooling to 100%. This should give the plastic time to shrink and adhere to the bed. If not then use a raft.\n\",0.0,0.0\n8709,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Perry Webb,1.0891412423578797,3.636240664748639,0.0,4.670422881206417,1.1827783713261073,0.42741039782645945,How do I get circles on small interior holes to adhere to the bed?,\"I’m using a RepRap printer, PLA (Hatchbox 1.75 mm), SketchUp, and Slic3r. The heated bed is covered with a blue polyester sticker. When I print small holes (1 to 1.5 mm radius), slicer software considers the holes outside edges for the first layer and prints them before the internal first layer. The problem is, unlike the actual outer edges, the holes have no brim and the small first layer circles stick to the extruder rather than the bed. The rest of the first layer print sticks and the print eventually recovers with slight defects depending on where the lifted circles end up. If I could print the first layer circles after the surrounding first layer was printed, this wouldn’t be an issue. I’ve tried different bed and extrusion temperatures. All four holes in different locations do the same. First layer is 0.3 mm thick. Second layer is 0.2 mm thick. \n\",Roberto Lo Giacco,\"I would use a very slow print speed for the first layer, something like 20mm/s or less.\n\nThis will make your first layer so slow you will be tempted to bite the steel rods.\n\nIf you were using Cura (I don’t know if Slic3r has a similar feature) you can change this parameter only for those areas where you have these small holes: with the Custom Supports plugin you can specify a different print speed for a specific area\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10214,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Perry Webb,2.1782824847157594,2.835469776828434,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Material for printing orthotics,\"I noticed foot arches are already digitized, but custom arch supports are usually expensive. PLA and ABS aren't the best material for printing arch supports, especially if they replace the shoe's innersole. \n\nIs there a more flexible material for 3D printing that could be used for making custom orthotics?\n\",0scar,\"An alternative is to use PLA, ABS or PETG to print a positive product to make a mold, or print a negative mold and create a more flexible foot arch support from something more flexible than TPU, e.g. silicone rubber.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10214,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Perry Webb,2.1782824847157594,2.835469776828434,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Material for printing orthotics,\"I noticed foot arches are already digitized, but custom arch supports are usually expensive. PLA and ABS aren't the best material for printing arch supports, especially if they replace the shoe's innersole. \n\nIs there a more flexible material for 3D printing that could be used for making custom orthotics?\n\",R..,\"The standard choice for this would be TPU, thermoplastic polyurethane.\n\n\n TPU is a common filament material for use in fused filament fabrication 3D printing due to the fact that it is an elastic thermoplastic which makes it ideal for printing objects that need to be flexible and elastic.\n \n ...\n \n Properties of commercially available TPU include:\n \n \n high abrasion resistance\n low-temperature performance\n high shear strength\n high elasticity\n transparency\n oil and grease resistance\n \n\n\nIn addition to TPU, there are plasticizer-modified PLA filaments with similar flexibility, but not necessarily with the other nice properties like abrasion resistance. I've printed with one from 3D Solutech and had good results, after figuring out what to do about stringing.\n\nAlso, it's possible to achieve a decent degree of flexibility merely with printed geometry, rather than special materials. It's possible that PETG with an appropriate geometry could work for your application.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n10632,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Perry Webb,1.0891412423578797,2.729972460763979,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Do you have trouble with 3D printer on UPS during short power outages?,\"Using a Gearman RepRap with Slic3r, printing from an SD card, with an uniterupted power supply (UPS), and both PLA and ABS filaments, short power outages often result in x/y-axis offsets (see image). During an outage the power is not as clear from a UPS as from a power conditioner. If both x and y axes offset the results look like Why did my print fall off its raft?. Are you experiencing these same issues? Have you solved the issue. \n\n\n\nThe image above shows an x-axis shift that occurred evenly across eight parts distributed across the bed. The filament was ABS. The parts still adhered to the bed. Note: the G-code file normally prints well. Thus, the file is not corrupt. \n\",R..,\"Part of your self-answer:\n\n\n What is puzzling is why did the 3D printer run as if the computer was still operating it, when is was printing from the SD card? Was the circuitry getting power from the USB cable from the computer?\n\n\nis more of an extension of the question, which I'll answer. Generally, yes, the logic of many (most?) 3D printers can be powered by the USB connection. You can try it sometime with the printer not plugged in to the AC power source at all. Under such a power configuration, the motors (not to mention the heating elements) should not operate at all, and I think the firmware has logic to detect this condition and not try to print under it, but I may be mistaken. However, in any case, in the event of an outage during printing, the logic board will remain powered if it's connected by USB, and especially if the outage is short enough, it might not even notice that the motors and heating elements are not functioning, yielding a result like what you saw.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10632,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Perry Webb,1.0891412423578797,2.729972460763979,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Do you have trouble with 3D printer on UPS during short power outages?,\"Using a Gearman RepRap with Slic3r, printing from an SD card, with an uniterupted power supply (UPS), and both PLA and ABS filaments, short power outages often result in x/y-axis offsets (see image). During an outage the power is not as clear from a UPS as from a power conditioner. If both x and y axes offset the results look like Why did my print fall off its raft?. Are you experiencing these same issues? Have you solved the issue. \n\n\n\nThe image above shows an x-axis shift that occurred evenly across eight parts distributed across the bed. The filament was ABS. The parts still adhered to the bed. Note: the G-code file normally prints well. Thus, the file is not corrupt. \n\",Perry Webb,\"I believe I resolved this issue. The next power outage will tell. After getting a larger UPS used for robotic testers, when swapping out the UPS, I noticed the 3D printer was plugged in to the surge protector side without the battery, probably because the smaller UPS was only rated for power to the computer. Now, with the larger UPS, the 3D printer also has power backup. What is puzzling is why did the 3D printer run as if the computer was still operating it, when is was printing from the SD card? Was the circuitry getting power from the USB cable from the computer?\n\nNote: If one is running their 3D printer using a notebook with a charged battery and the 3D printer doesn't have a UPS, it would have similar behavior. \n\",0.0,0.0\n10695,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Perry Webb,1.0891412423578797,2.5245875148292196,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Proper hotend heater for Reprap x400 Pro V3,\"I'm trying to verify the correct hotend heater for a Reprap x400 Pro V3. I know a 12 V 40 W doesn't work. A working heater measures 4.4 Ω, so I'm guessing it is a 12 V 30 W heater. \n\nWhen I tried replacing a non-functioning hotend heater on a German Reprap X400 V3 with a new 12V 40W heater that heater also wouldn't heat. My guess is the circuitry shut off due to overcurrent. The thermistor temperature didn't change from room temperature, and the heater was not hot to the touch. Afterward, I plugged in the heater measuring 4.4 Ω and it worked. \n\nThe 100k sensors worked properly. A functioning heater resistance measured 4.4 Ω. The non-functioning heater measured 3.6 Ω. The new 12 V 40 W heater measured 2.6 Ω. Apparently, this model Reprap won't apply power to the heater if the resistance is wrong. I'm assuming this model needs a 12 V 30 W heater, but am trying to confirm this since I can't find a parts bill of material for this model. Used the following equation to estimate heater resistance (voltage^2)/power = resistance. This gives 4.8 Ω for 12 V 30 W and 3.6 Ω for 12 V 40 W.\n\",Perry Webb,\"\n\nThe part causing the hot point failure was the connector for the heater and sensor. The connector showed no sign of burns on the heater pins, but the square tubes (see attached image) accommodating pins from the other connector had started to straighten out toward its original sheet metal state due to heating from current. Bending the tubes back in place allowed the connector to work temporarily and confirmed the failure cause. \n\nDetails: After getting a 12 V 30 W heater, it also didn’t work. The hot point had stopped working because a wire brush had shorted across the heater terminals. Because a spare hot point worked, the failure wasn’t in the circuitry. The spare was a 12 V 30 W heater (from resistance measurements), while the heater on the failing hot point was a 12 V 40 W heater (from resistance measurements). This made me suspect that the heater resistance had shifted, and the circuitry shut off the heater. However, apparently both 12 V 30 W and 12 V 40 W heaters work on RepRap x400 V3. The brief short caused the bent sheet metal of the connector to start straightening back out of the bend. \n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n8641,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ThePython1,2.528907649931287,4.130550011208079,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.749318730431847,4.208576161768494,How does a UV LCD 3D resin printer work?,\"I've been wondering this for a while, and have searched for hours and have found nothing except undetailed explanations and projects.\n\nHow does a UV LCD 3D resin printer cure resin exactly? I understand there is an LCD screen, but where does the UV light come from? Where is it placed?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"I'm surprised your research hasn't answered your question, as the concept is relatively simple. You have most of the answer in the question. The missing item is a light source. Usually the source is an array of ultraviolet LED modules. There are resin printers that would not be called LCD printers, as they use computer display projectors to generate both the image and the UV to cure the resin.\n\nA rather extensive list of various resin printers can be found at aniwaa.com along with a clear explanation of the technologies.\n\nThe image below is courtesy of the link in the previous paragraph.\n\n\n\nThe light source that answers your question is visible in the third picture. As noted, the LCD panel blocks the light based on the image to be cured. I think the \"\"uses its own light\"\" is somewhat misleading, unless the builder has found a high-UV output LED LCD panel or is using daylight resins and has configured for long burn-in times.\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n8646,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,3dprintingQuestion,1.726248027126092,2.541486592782186,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Long prints shifting with Ultimaker 2,\"I am currently using Ultimaker 2+ to print some big parts with PLA. As long as the printing lasts for less than 15 hours (that's what I observed by experience, approximately), there are no problems. \nIf the duration of printing is greater than this time, the part would get shifted from its initial position. It looks like the part is not sticking to the bed anymore. \n\nI was first using classic glue sticks and this problem occurred. Next, I tried with different masking tapes but the problem remains the same. The glass bed is not heated. The first layer and the following are actually pretty clean. I use brim. I reduced the printing speed to 20 mm/s on purpose to see if it would reduce the probability of this phenomenon to occur. However, this is not the case.\n\nDo you have any experience concerning this problem, ideas, suggestions?\n\",0scar,\"If the brim is firmly connected to the part and sufficiently large, you could \"\"duck tape\"\" the brim to the bed after a few hours; by then you should have enough space/clearance to work with. \n\nBut maybe the best advice is to invest in a heated bed platform, or use the heated bed if you only did not enable it. Heating the filament to the point close to the glass transition temperature ensures that the printed filament stays ductile. Once filament cools down, it shrinks and cannot grip on the to build plate indefinitely.\n\nMy Ultimaker 3 uses a heated build platform that can virtually make every filament stick to it as long as you prepare the bed correctly. On glass I prefer to use a specifically designed printing spray called 3DLAC; that, and a little heat (depending on the filament you print; i.e. the glass transition temperature) make that I never have had any problems with getting filament to stick to the build plate. I'm even able to get the slippery filament POM to stick to the heated bed.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n8649,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jcfry,2.528907649931287,3.137850340878127,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,PLA 3D Print longevity after being printed,\"I am curious about the longevity of a PLA printed part used in a commercial application. It would be a mounting bracket installed in an industrial enclosure. The internal cabinet temperature would be less than 100 °F, and have an internal air circulation fan to keep the control PLC cool. \n\nIt would be in a steel enclosure, in an industrial environment, with no sunlight or UV exposure. \n\nWould the PLA hold up over time, or have any issues with delamination or brittleness? \n\",Scott Leslie,\"I've had white Hatchbox PLA parts in use outside in direct or partial sun for 3+ years without issue. It may help if you paint the parts for outdoor use, but I suspect the environment you describe would be fine for several years.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n8652,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,LMF5000,3.0576060275493275,3.4153416935671306,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Handling retraction when using a mixing extruder (2 in 1 out),\"I have a Zonestar Z5FM2 running Marlin 1.1.8 with a mixing extruder. \n\nThat is, 2 extruder stepper motors feeding a 2-in 1-out hotend (similar to the E3D cyclops).\n\nI'm slicing with Simplify3D and I have set up:\n\n\nT0 set to the first extruder; \nT1 set to the second extruder; \nT2 set to a virtual extruder consisting of a 50/50 mix of extruder 1 and 2(made by having M163 S0 P50 followed by M164 S2 in the start code)\n\n\nI was wondering how you handle the retraction. Currently only the active tool (e.g. extruder motor 1 when using T1) retracts, which leads to a lot of oozing since the filament in the unused half is still applying some pressure.\n\nI read that for a setup like mine it is necessary to get both extruders to retract. How do I do that?\n\nI've seen the documentation for programming G10/G11 firmware retract with M207 but there does not seem to be a way to specify the tool to use.\n\nI could make a find-and-replace post processing script in Simplify3D to replace retracts of T0 or T1 with retracts of T2 (so both motors retract), but then how would I get it to switch back to the proper original tool when resuming printing?\n\nIs there a way to address an extruder directly in G1 commands (so I could force both to retract), or temporarily switch a tool for just one command (so I could switch tool for the retract command only and it would go back to printing with the previous tool afterwards)?\n\",Nach0z,\"I found this post on the S3D Forums that seem to have some interesting information on custom scripting within Simplify3D. While this doesn't seem to SPECIFICALLY address the question you've got, it looks like there's a \"\"Retraction Scripts\"\" tab that you could probably leverage your T2 tool inside of, using \"\"OLDTOOL\"\" instead of \"\"NEWTOOL\"\". \n\nFor additional information on what variables are available, I found a different forum post here that seems to have some documentation on Simplify3D's built-in script variables. Additionally, from the GCode in the first link's example scripts, it appears that you should be able to actually address M-commands to individual extruders (such as T2 in your case) simply by adding \"\"T(x)\"\" as a parameter to the individual command. I just ran a quick test on my own Marlin-based printer with a 2in-1out hotend, and I was not able to get it to address G1 commands to specific E motors without switching tools. \n\nAll in all I think you should be able to use the custom scripts available in S3D to accomplish what you want by switching tools in the layer change script, but aside from that, I don't know what options you have available with that specific software chain.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8663,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,User0110101,1.0891412423578797,2.9728043627528558,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Success metrics for 3D prints,\"I'm doing some testing for objects in 3D printing for a report. I'm trying to get success metrics for it but a bit unsure of what else I could do since would ideally like hard values for it. For example, I have:\n\n\nFilament needed\nVolume\nEase of removal\nWeight\nTime of print\n\n\nWould anyone know anything else? \n\",Dan Hulme,\"The success metrics are entirely up to you, the user of the printed part. For example, the strength of the part under the load it's desgined for will be critical for an end-use part (such as as hook), but doesn't matter at all for a fit or appearance prototype. Conversely, the dimensional accuracy is very important for a fit model prototyping a complex assembly, but might be unimportant for an appearance prototype or for some kinds of end-use parts.\n\nBecause there's a wide range of uses for printed parts, there's a wide range of possible metrics. Mostly they depend on the original design, the print options chosen (e.g. infill style), the material chosen, and the capabilities of the printer. Here are a few:\n\n\nDimensional accuracy (of the part compared to the design)\nDimensional stability (does the part warp or shrink afterwards)\nTotal time to print + finish\nMaterial cost of print (build materials and other consumables)\nWeight of printed part\nLabour of operating the printer and any post-processing\nSurface appearance/smoothness (different for horizontal, vertical, angled, and curved surfaces)\nSurface friction\nSurface hardness (can you scratch it easily)\nColour accuracy (of the part compared to the design, for colour printing processes)\nColour stability (do they fade over time)\nColour resolution (are colour changes sharp or blurred)\nRigidity (different in different axes)\nFailure load (different in different axes)\nNon-adhesion across small gaps (as in a tolerance test)\nPorosity (e.g. if printing a container for liquids or gases)\n\n\nA big cross-cutting metric is repeatability. If you make the same print again the next day and repeat any of these measurements, how different a result do you get?\n\nThere are also some metrics that are more about the material choice than the way it's printed:\n\n\nOutgassing\nFlammability\nToxicity\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8665,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,icraft,1.0891412423578797,5.265872264285184,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,0.9784382375735183,Which nozzle should I buy for Anycubic i3 Mega?,\"I'd like to buy a new nozzle for my Anycubic i3 Mega because it's not precise enough - it fails to print small details like 1 mm eyebrows.\n\nCurrently it has a 0.4 mm nozzle and I'd like to buy a better one but I don't know how to choose one which is compatible with this printer.\n\nIf you have any advice, please let me know.\n\",0scar,\"According to Anycubic this printer uses the E3D V5 type hotend as can be seen from the linked video of the AnyCubic Mega:\n\n\n\n\nThe brass nozzle you see is fully compatible with the E3D v6 nozzle and can be found on those typical auction and Chinese websites by looking for \"\"E3D nozzle\"\". They are also available from E3D directly, the designer/creator of the E3D hotend family, and other specialized manufacturers like the Olsson Ruby. These nozzles have a short nozzle (snout) and are screwed into the heater block with M6 threads.1)\n\n\n\nThe smaller the diameter, the smaller the filament traces and the higher the print detail resolution. Note that a smaller diameter causes thinner walls for the same amount of (vertical) walls and may require additional perimeters to get similar strength and rigidity. The maximum layer thickness also decreases, as prints with a layer height above 75 % of the nozzle diameter have very poor quality. As an example, a 0.25 mm nozzle should not print layers thicker than $0.75 \\times 0.25\\text{ mm} = 0.19\\text{ mm}$. \n\nAs such printing with smaller nozzle diameters increases print time. Also note that a smaller diameter requires more force to push the filament through and could use some extra temperature to make the filament more fluid or reduction of the print speed.\n\nJust buy some spare nozzles of different nozzle diameter and experiment what works best for you.\n\n1) - The other popular style of M6 threaded nozzles has a long body and long taper (often referred to as MK8 nozzle; they come in two different shapes). While these might work, they extend from the heater block considerably further and might need readjustment of the heater block (as explained here): \n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8665,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,icraft,1.0891412423578797,5.265872264285184,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,0.9784382375735183,Which nozzle should I buy for Anycubic i3 Mega?,\"I'd like to buy a new nozzle for my Anycubic i3 Mega because it's not precise enough - it fails to print small details like 1 mm eyebrows.\n\nCurrently it has a 0.4 mm nozzle and I'd like to buy a better one but I don't know how to choose one which is compatible with this printer.\n\nIf you have any advice, please let me know.\n\",Donald Duck,\"We select nozzles depending on what project we want to,do and it must match with the hot end as well.\n\",0.0,0.0\n8666,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,bam,1.726248027126092,2.5072605669755292,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Ultimaker 3 Extended prints pores in walls,\"We have a fairly new Ultimaker 3 Extended.\n\nWhen printing ABS with the AA0.8 nozzle and the recommended settings (up-to-date CURA) we receive a very poor wall quality that exposes some kind of pores. I've attached an image of those pores.\n\nI assume those pores are dragged by the nozzle when it moves inwards to print the infill.\n\nI already tried to increase the wall thickness or increase the layer height to 0.3 mm. Are there other settings I might be able to tweak to eliminate those pores? \n\n\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"While no expert, I'm wondering if you're going the wrong way with tweaking your parameters. \n\nIf I'm reading your question correct, you have a fairly large nozzle (it's a 0.8 mm?) and then you're using ABS which requires more heat (230 °C nozzle temp) than say PLA does (typically 190 °C). Along with that you are using a fairly thick print layer of 0.3 mm, where I've normally only used a 0.1 mm layer height. You add all this stuff up and it seems to me the nozzle temps are probably not keeping up with the amount of filament you are trying to extrude, and due to these things, you're seeing the gaps in the print. \n\nMy thinking on this to fix your issue is to do a couple of things. You can slow down your print speed to allow the heating element to keep up. Secondly, use a smaller layer height. Both of these things should help, but will increase print times dramatically. You could also go to a smaller print orifice. Lowering the orifice size to 0.4 mm would again, increase print time, but would mean less filament extrusion and the chance for the nozzle temps to keep up with extrusion needs.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8666,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,bam,1.726248027126092,2.5072605669755292,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Ultimaker 3 Extended prints pores in walls,\"We have a fairly new Ultimaker 3 Extended.\n\nWhen printing ABS with the AA0.8 nozzle and the recommended settings (up-to-date CURA) we receive a very poor wall quality that exposes some kind of pores. I've attached an image of those pores.\n\nI assume those pores are dragged by the nozzle when it moves inwards to print the infill.\n\nI already tried to increase the wall thickness or increase the layer height to 0.3 mm. Are there other settings I might be able to tweak to eliminate those pores? \n\n\n\",Joel Coehoorn,\"First of all, I agree with the other answer, which suggests slowing the print and increasing the temperature (upvoted). I also see some evidence of de-lamination between layers in the photo, which lends weight to that idea.\n\nBut I want to address this:\n\n\n I assume those pores are dragged by the nozzle when it moves inwards to print the infill.\n\n\nPerhaps. There's also a chance these gaps are the result of the nozzle as you suggest...\n\n... however, if that's true, it's almost certainly not the nozzle itself. For the nozzle to cause this problem, the z-axis would actually have to descend as the layer tries to adjust upwards. \n\nInstead, I'd look for a clump of material stuck to the nozzle edge, either during a priming phase in the machine beginning g-code or picked up from the first layer where an early part of a brim/raft/skirt may not have completely stuck to the print bed.\n\nThis happens commonly with my printer now that the nozzle has aged some, and I tend to watch the printer carefully while it warms up for a new print so I can remove the priming material with a putty knife before it can cause a problem.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8673,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Luis Justiniano,1.726248027126092,3.071923460387521,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,New use for extruder port,\"Is there a way to change the use of an extruder port on a 3D printer motherboard to move stepper motors (on y axis) on a 3D printer?\n\nThis is for a school project, and we have replaced the extruder with a laser for cutting material.\n\nWe were tasked with converting a 3D printer into LOM 3D printer, the laser is set using the fan port, however we still need two stepper motors to move material from one side of the printer to the other after each layer of material is cut.\n\n\n\nThe mother board we are using is WitBot MKS Gen L V1.0 Controller Board Integrated mainboard Compatible Ramps1.4/Mega2560 R3 with A4988 Motor Driver for 3D.\n\",Trish,\"With the picture shown, the LOM printer could be almost controlled entirely with a standard printer's hardware and almost no changes to the firmware:\n\n\nZ controls stay the same, they control 7\nX & Y will be used for the laser mirror 4 needs to be controlled by 2 motors to follow 2D Contours. I would not use a swiveling one but a steady laser that targets a 90° mirror mounted so it moves with one of the axis that reflects it to the second 90° mirror that aims it down on the workpiece and is mounted on the second axis. This would be pretty much a Core-XY setup.\nTurning the laser on and off can - as said - easily be done with the part cooling fan control\nThe E0 signal could be used to turn the material feed on both sides, though I would use only one motor. This stepper should for speed consistency be mounted springloaded and use a roller to transfer movement to the film coil 8, best on an area that is off-limits for the laser to cut in. As a result, I would let 1 spin on itself against some resistance like a spring-loaded bar keeping the film tightened, keeping electronic complexity to a minimum.\nPowering the heater can be done via the heater out of the board.\nTo actually move the heater, I would use the E1 signal on a long axle, pulling the mounting for it from both sides.\n\n\nThis would create a simple order of operations:\n\n\nT0 # Choose the material Feed\nE100 F100 # Pull 100 mm of new material via the roller 8 from 1\nDo XY movements with cut \nT1 to choose the heater movement\nE100 F100\nE-100 F100 # Fuse the film with an E1 movement back and forth (or alternate between these two lines to rest the heater on either side, speeding up the process)\nGOTO 1\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n8673,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Luis Justiniano,1.726248027126092,3.071923460387521,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,New use for extruder port,\"Is there a way to change the use of an extruder port on a 3D printer motherboard to move stepper motors (on y axis) on a 3D printer?\n\nThis is for a school project, and we have replaced the extruder with a laser for cutting material.\n\nWe were tasked with converting a 3D printer into LOM 3D printer, the laser is set using the fan port, however we still need two stepper motors to move material from one side of the printer to the other after each layer of material is cut.\n\n\n\nThe mother board we are using is WitBot MKS Gen L V1.0 Controller Board Integrated mainboard Compatible Ramps1.4/Mega2560 R3 with A4988 Motor Driver for 3D.\n\",Matias Gonzalez,\"If you are planning to use the printer via GCode entirely, then I don't believe it would be too complicated. For example, Marlin treats the extruder as another axis and uses absolute values for it (if absolute mode is on, of course). Since you want to have two steppers, you would have to connect them in either series or parallel (usually the Z motors are wired in parallel on RAMPS type boards, but many people are going for series since it has some benefits, one of them being that the torque will be much more similar between the two motors). Of course lower the stepper driver current to the minimum before connecting, then adjust it to whatever value you need.\nI don't think it will work too well if it has to keep the roll tight - in that case, you could be better off by using only one stepper and some kind of force to hold it tight... maybe a small DC motor at low currents?\n\nYou can modify your printer firmware and set your own pin assignments for everything, for example in Marlin you have the pins.h file where every pin from the Mega is mapped to different headers and drivers. I don't know if there is any LOM slicer or firmware available, but you could just use GRBL.\n\",0.0,0.0\n8682,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,AntiHeadshot,2.1782824847157594,3.0158611934564274,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,\"\"\"Seams\"\" in first layer\",\"My first layers started to have these \"\"seams\"\" in them.\nI am printing on the Anycubiq Ultrabase.\n\n\n\nAny other layer is fine.\n\nHas anyone else experienced similar problems or an idea of how to debug this issue?\n\nThe picture is of PLA (BQ Easy Black) printed at 215 °C on the Ultrabase.\nThe the same issue with BQ Easy PLA red, turquoise and white (205 °C), Zaper PETG Brown 230 °C and HobbyKing translucent ABS Red (245 °C).\n\nChanging the nozzle did not change anything.\n\",0scar,\"Normally, such patterns are caused by too close printing to the bed (nozzle to bed distance too small), but considering the not fully flattened out extrusion lines (on glass I get a mirror shine fully closed surface) this does not seem to be the reason; you could try to increase the gap a little, in Ultimaker Cura this is very easily done with the Z Offset Setting plugin. Alternatively, you could use a little thicker paper to calibrate the bed levelling.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n8690,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dimitar Manovski,2.1782824847157594,3.1516766269614735,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.488653845767225,\"Strange problem with quality, what might be the reason for these bubbles?\",\"I changed the filament, and to adjust filament temperature, I printed a test model and it looked good: \n\n\n\nBut printing another part did not go so well: \n\n\n\n\n\nAfter the failed print I ran another test: \n\n\nЕverything is done with the same settings.\nAnd I think the temperature and settings are okay.\n\nIs it possible to have a missed step on the Z axis, and this has caused the crushing of the layers or bad filament quality.\n\nWhere does the problem come from?\n\",darth pixel,\"It definitely looks like the temperature is too high\n\nbut it can also mean that \n\n\nthe speed is too low and/or\nthe cooling fan is not driven correctly and/or\nover extrusion could play a role here\n\n\nthis is the scenario with all these issues together\n\ntoo high temperature melts too much filament which is put by too slow movements\n\n;)\n\ncheck the printing when your object changes from well printed to this ugly state\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n8690,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dimitar Manovski,2.1782824847157594,3.1516766269614735,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.488653845767225,\"Strange problem with quality, what might be the reason for these bubbles?\",\"I changed the filament, and to adjust filament temperature, I printed a test model and it looked good: \n\n\n\nBut printing another part did not go so well: \n\n\n\n\n\nAfter the failed print I ran another test: \n\n\nЕverything is done with the same settings.\nAnd I think the temperature and settings are okay.\n\nIs it possible to have a missed step on the Z axis, and this has caused the crushing of the layers or bad filament quality.\n\nWhere does the problem come from?\n\",Mick,\"Looking at the second photograph and the way that the filament switches abruptly from smooth to irregular deposition, I would say that you have a partially clogged nozzle.\n\nPre-heat the nozzle and extrude some filament. It should drop straight down from the nozzle. If the filament curls as it comes out of the nozzle, the nozzle is partially clogged. You may be able to clear the clog by doing what is called a \"\"cold pull\"\":\n\nPre-heat the nozzle so that it is possible to extrude filament. Then switch off the heater and allow the temperature to fall below the pre-heat temperature of the filament (140°C for PLA, say). Now disengage the extruder gears and gently withdraw the filament completely from the hot end. On removing the filament completely from the printer, you should find a \"\"bullet\"\" on the end of the filament in the shape of the melt chamber. Hopefully, the dirt that caused the clog will be embedded in the bullet.\n\nIn order to prevent dirt from entering the nozzle, it is a good idea to install a filament cleaner. This can be as simple as a piece of sponge containing a couple of drops of light machine oil, or you can make something a little more sophisticated. There are plenty of designs that you can download on Thingiverse.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n8694,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,madscientist159,1.0891412423578797,3.5148268665696674,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Best way to fix ABS corner curling on enclosed Prusa style printer with PEI heatbed?,\"I'm trying to set up an enclosed (custom enclosure) Prusa i3 style printer for ABS, but having a fair amount of difficulty preventing the part corners from curling.\n\n\n\nDetailed specs:\n\n\nGeetech A10 (generic Prusa clone) w/ PEI heatbed\nCustom enclosure\nSlic3r software\nABS filament (obviously!)\n247 °C hotend temp\n115 °C heated bed first layer, 110 °C for others\nFan on for layer 3 and above\n\n\nVerified heatbed temperature with calibrated IR imager.\n\nThus far I have been unable to prevent parts from separating from the heatbed during print, primarily at the corners where stress is concentrated. I've tried various heatbed temperatures from 90 °C to 115 °C, lower hotend temperatures (which just made the problem worse and caused complete print failure), cleaning the PEI surface with alcohol, etc. to no avail. I'm even seeing this to some extent with Benchy, it shows up as a lift to the stern and bow (slight bend parallel to the keel) -- the print is otherwise basically perfect.\n\nI've attached an image of the more extreme curling -- yes, I should probably be using mouse ears on a part like this, but I see the same thing on parts that shouldn't require mouse ears.\n\nWhat is the best way to fix this particular problem? Temperature adjustments, brims, rafts, something else?\n\",madscientist159,\"Adding 20mm mouse ears was sufficient to resolve the problem using the original extrusion / heatbed settings. I did not expect mouse ears to be required on the Benchy model, but given the lack of better advice it seems this may be a poorly documented \"\"feature\"\" of ABS.\n\nResults on the original worst-case test model:\n\n\n\nNote that the brims will not help if the bed is insufficiently leveled -- the brim has to actually merge with / melt into the base part layer, so the extruder height has to be perfect at the brim to part interface.\n\nExample of extruder too far away from bed:\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n8702,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user15166,2.8153892694839717,2.574082176164519,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,How to fix transparent outer face?,\"I have a 3D model that is essentially a mostly outer cylinder but with some geometries in the inner wall. However, it seems that MakerBot print software is having trouble interpreting places when the outer wall is just a thin face (with no thickness) and makes the model seem transparent there when looking from the inside, even though it looks solid from the outside. I think for this reason, the model is completely filling in the cylinder in those places, which is what I am trying to fix. \n\nAny suggestions would be appreciated.\n\n\n\n\n\",fred_dot_u,\"You've not offered the source of the model, nor the software from which it was created, but I suspect that you'll find the \"\"invisible\"\" faces have reversed normals. This is a characteristic of modeling software that believes the outside is the inside and vice versa. If you are comfortable with using another program, you can check/confirm those problematic sections.\n\nI'm fond of Meshmixer, a multi-platform 3D modeling and editing program. It will display reversed normals with a bit of zebra striping. One can use the Select tool, highlight those faces and use the Select Edit, reverse normals menu entry to repair the problem.\n\nSome slicers will automatically repair this type of problem. For a different approach, download and import your model into Slic3r, which will indicate that it has corrected xx errors.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n8706,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Huskey27,1.0891412423578797,3.5501321208593204,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Ender 3 first layer of ESD PLA printing on raft fails,\"I was asked to print something with ESD PLA and the first layer, on a raft, is coming out like this:\n\n\n\nNozzle temperature was 220 °C and I'm using the default Cura draft profile.\n\nCan you provide any tips on how to get a good print with this?\n\",0scar,\"The gap between the raft and the first layer is too large (you need to switch to expert mode in Ultimaker Cura to see the values of the option before you can change them) and the hotend is too hot (normal PLA generally prints at 190 °C, ESD PLA prints at higher temperatures; you could aim for 210 °C as a start), This makes it difficult to precisely deposition the first layer on the raft as the nozzle drags the hot filament causing inaccurate first layer deposition.\n\nFurthermore, PLA generally doesn't require a raft to print the part. The Creality Ender 3 has a rough bed (like a BuildTak surface), you could print directly onto the bed surface.\n\nSource states:\n\n\n Extruder Temp: Typically 210-220°C. ESD PLA is a filled product and\n has a higher melt viscosity vs. unfilled PLA. Therefore, it is\n sometimes necessary to print at higher temperatures than your standard\n PLA to allow the resin to flow properly.\n\n\nThis implies that a hotend of 220 °C mot not be hot enough, in that case the filament is too cold and viscous and gets dragged because the gap is too large.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n8713,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Huskey27,1.0891412423578797,2.717179978327238,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Layer lifted and separated from ESD PLA,\"I'm using the default Ultimaker Cura draft profile but with the nozzle temp at 220 °C because this is a special ESD filament.\n\nAll was going well after some troubleshooting thanks to some users on 3DPrinting.SE but this happened over night:\n\nWhat would cause an entire layer to lift off the main body, continue to print and then turn to spaghetti?\n\nThe red circled part was supposed to be part of the blue outline.\n\n\",Huskey27,\"The spool kept getting caught on itself and tightening. I unrolled some of it and rewound it and the print came out perfect. @anttix was almost correct with the clog theory.\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n8715,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joseph Crozier,3.452496054252184,3.6755458889710138,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,1.9376260060201658,Ultra high precision and accuracy printing,\"I work in a teaching hospital and we have a research project we're interested in pursuing. We'd like to 3D Print tubes we'd implant into rats to help with nerve regeneration. We're interested in the shape of the tubes right now, more so than what material it is or whether it's biocompatible etc.. \n\nSo this question isn't necessarily about what type of plastic or whatever we should print in. My question is more so:\n\n\n We'd like to print a tube that's 1 mm in diameter, about 1 cm\n long and has as many micro \"\"tubes\"\" crammed through it as possible,\n something like this:\n \n \n\n\nI currently have a Stratasys j750 in my lab, a UPrint Se and a Prusa i3 Mk3s. They all work well but for the detail I'm looking for, come up a bit short. They have advertised accuracies of 14 microns (well, the j750) but thats just in the z direction, x and y are more like 200. If I went to get PRECISE, what technology should I look into?\n\",StarWind0,\"This is an interesting question. A good thing to note when we start talking about SLA and other jewelry grade 3d printing, that you will have to factor in the materials toxicity when we start talking about medical applications. You can also look into DLP 3d printers but they will not have as good quality. \n\nWhat can help you right now is these SLA printers I see that form 3 has 25 microns, with a laser dot of 85. Well within your tolerances. Just make sure to get dental grade or medical grade resin. \n\nNote that if there are bends, then you will have issues with SLA printing, depending how steep the angles are.\n\nThere are other technologies, such as metal 3d printing or SLS printing, that will likely be out of your price range such as the HP Metal Jet that can do 21 -xy by 50 -z microns. Or binder based 3d printing which will have the best internal geometry, as powder will act as support, and is easily removed. \n\nThere are many specifically in the bio printing area that might be what you are looking for as well, this is more an alternative. You can look into what the researchers at Penn has been doing, where they have been using Sugar to create vascular networks. As far as I know they do not sell it as a product at this time. Here is more information about scaling vascular networks \n\nSee here for more information about other printing technologies\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n8715,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Joseph Crozier,3.452496054252184,3.6755458889710138,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,2.746326330407206,1.9376260060201658,Ultra high precision and accuracy printing,\"I work in a teaching hospital and we have a research project we're interested in pursuing. We'd like to 3D Print tubes we'd implant into rats to help with nerve regeneration. We're interested in the shape of the tubes right now, more so than what material it is or whether it's biocompatible etc.. \n\nSo this question isn't necessarily about what type of plastic or whatever we should print in. My question is more so:\n\n\n We'd like to print a tube that's 1 mm in diameter, about 1 cm\n long and has as many micro \"\"tubes\"\" crammed through it as possible,\n something like this:\n \n \n\n\nI currently have a Stratasys j750 in my lab, a UPrint Se and a Prusa i3 Mk3s. They all work well but for the detail I'm looking for, come up a bit short. They have advertised accuracies of 14 microns (well, the j750) but thats just in the z direction, x and y are more like 200. If I went to get PRECISE, what technology should I look into?\n\",Joseph Crozier,\"Update on this:\n\nPer this article: 3D printing strategies for peripheral nerve regeneration\n\nThere are a few 3d printing technologies beyond your typical FDM/SLA/Polyjet that can get this small.\n\n\nMelt Microextrusion\ntwo photon polymerization\nSomething called MEW\ncontinuous liquid interface production\n\n\nI found various articles where someone \"\"printed\"\" that small, but it was often kind of a misnomer where technically something was made additively, but it wasn't a \"\"printer\"\" that you could go buy. I think two photon polymerization may be the \"\"best\"\" actual printing method for what I want, though the price tag associated with that style of printers may be out of my range. But it can definitely get that small, this technology can apparently get down into the nanometer range.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n8717,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dornadigital,1.726248027126092,3.6723553103068682,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,Polypropylene Bed Adhesion,\"I recently upgraded to a Polypropylene print bed, but I haven't actually been able to complete a print. \n\nAdhesion seems incredibly inconsistent, even on the same spot. Sometimes it goes down great, and sometimes it just curls up and clumps on the nozzle. I even cranked the temp up to 220 °C for the PLA and 70 °C for the bed in an effort to get it to stick for an initial layer, and it still isn't sticking. \n\nAny tips? I've been cleaning with rubbing alcohol, but I don't know if there's any trick. Clean when hot? Cold? Let sit after cleaning before using? Is it just a matter of incredibly precise bed leveling?\n\",cmm,\"When you updated the print bed, you may have affected either the manual or auto calibration of the bed height and bed leveling.\n\nFirst layer adhesion is depends critically on an accurate first layer thickness, which depends on the bed height calibration. Adding or, perhaps more critically, removing any bed surface thickness could cause a problem.\n\nWith many forms of auto bed calibration, a sensor detects a steel or metallic reference under the surface. The thickness from that reference to the surface of the bed is not automatically detected or compensated. Changing the bed surface, even renewing the surface with another sheet of the same material, may alter the bed thickness enough to affect the adhesion fo the first layer.\n\nIf the bed is properly adjusted, the problem may be the surface of the polypropylene. I see that some instructions for cleaning polypropylene build surfaces suggest isopropyl alcohol and/or a mild soap solution. I find that with a PEI build plate, it is sometimes necessary to clean the surface with acetone.\n\nAcetone is superior at removing oils and films from the surface and will do better than multiple isopropanol cleanings. I checked a table of chemical compatibility, and polypropylene is highly compatible with acetone, so a thorough cleaning will not degrade it.\n\",0.0,0.0\n8717,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dornadigital,1.726248027126092,3.6723553103068682,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,Polypropylene Bed Adhesion,\"I recently upgraded to a Polypropylene print bed, but I haven't actually been able to complete a print. \n\nAdhesion seems incredibly inconsistent, even on the same spot. Sometimes it goes down great, and sometimes it just curls up and clumps on the nozzle. I even cranked the temp up to 220 °C for the PLA and 70 °C for the bed in an effort to get it to stick for an initial layer, and it still isn't sticking. \n\nAny tips? I've been cleaning with rubbing alcohol, but I don't know if there's any trick. Clean when hot? Cold? Let sit after cleaning before using? Is it just a matter of incredibly precise bed leveling?\n\",Perry Webb,\"If you are using PLA, 200 for the extruder sticks the best for me. The other issue with adhesion is the greater the difference between the extruder temperature and the bed the poorer adhesion. There are other things can help with this. Using a higher bed temperature for the first layer can help. A slower extrusion speed allows the extrusion to cool more before getting as long of a length to for the contraction force; thus improving adhesion. \n\",0.0,0.0\n8719,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ahe,1.726248027126092,3.1447983993774047,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Marlin customization; additional output after G0/G1 move,\"This question concerns an Anet A8 with customized Marlin Firmware 1.1.9.\n\nI need to generate an additional digital output to signal move complete to trigger some data acquisition process. The extruder is not connected and was planning to use those outputs.\n\nWhich section handles G-code processing and is there an already available option to get the job done?\n\nBasically, I'm trying to use the Anet A8 as a computer-controlled positioning system. It involves some other elements which need to be triggered in a stationary state. The requirement is: G0 X10 Y10 after this is complete: set a pin high and low after a 10 ms delay. this after every move. Additionally if I could add my own G-code to preserve the original operation would be ideal.\n\",0scar,\"\n Which section handles G-code processing?\n\n\nIn Marlin Firmware, G-code is processed by procedure void process_parsed_command() in file Marlin_main.cpp\n\n\n I need to generate an additional digital output\n\n\nA G-code that is able to set a port value is M42.\n\nYou could write a procedure that schedules certain port after a G0 or G1 move, recompile and upload the firmware.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n8729,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,yonutix,1.726248027126092,3.629464590740985,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Tronxy X5S-400 Marlin stuck at splash-screen,\"I got a Tronxy X5S-400, I assembled it and when I power it on, I see on the screen one of the below images and gets stuck there.\n\nIs the firmware broken? If yes, where can I get a configuration.h file?\n\nI verified that the two buses between the screen and the mainboard are not loose or incorrectly connected.\n\n\n\n\n\nThe board is a MKS Melzi v2.0 clone\n\n\n\",Mick,\"If the controller is one of Tronxy's new Chitu boards, you will not have the option of recompiling the firmware, since they are locked down. Apart from checking that the PSU is delivering the correct voltage, your only option may be to request a new main board from the vendor.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8729,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,yonutix,1.726248027126092,3.629464590740985,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Tronxy X5S-400 Marlin stuck at splash-screen,\"I got a Tronxy X5S-400, I assembled it and when I power it on, I see on the screen one of the below images and gets stuck there.\n\nIs the firmware broken? If yes, where can I get a configuration.h file?\n\nI verified that the two buses between the screen and the mainboard are not loose or incorrectly connected.\n\n\n\n\n\nThe board is a MKS Melzi v2.0 clone\n\n\n\",yonutix,\"It looked like the firmware wasn't flashed correctly in the factory. What I did was to flash a bootloader using an Arduino compatible board and to flash the Marlin software e.g. according to videos from this guy.\n\nNext, the menu wasn't displayed correctly so I added, in the Configuration.h the following lines:\n\n#define ST7920_DELAY_1 DELAY_NS(63)\n#define ST7920_DELAY_2 DELAY_NS(100)\n#define ST7920_DELAY_3 DELAY_NS(125)\n\n\nNow the display is working fine, and the Marlin firmware can be directly flashed from the computer because the bootloader remains there.\n\nI also had a problem with the heating bed which was heating very slow and I had to raise consistently the TEMP_BED_RESIDENCY_TIME and decrease TEMP_BED_HYSTERESIS to 1.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n8731,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user8980526,2.1782824847157594,3.612224941552368,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Simplify3D with error in preview?,\"I am trying to print a belt but when I preview it, the model doesn't fully render\n\n \n\nIt isn't rendering the full model correctly. The model is rendering halfway but isn't fully which is why you can still see the infill when the slider is at max which isn't normal.\n\nThis is what it should look like:\n\n\n\nI have a 0.4 nozzle and those with a 0.6 have been able to print this. What is going on?\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"First I thought that the model was improperly modeled due inverted faces or any missing line to close that faces but, I rendered the same STL to be printed 0.4 nozzle with height 0.2mm and looks pretty well.\n\n\n\nThen I suspected that you were trying to print with 0.4 nozzle at 0.6 layers, which this is totally wrong but, I decided to set the 3D simplify and do the test. The program just show a warning about first layer height adhesion, the click OK and the part is rendered correctly.\n\n\n\nHowever the recommended settings for a 0.4 nozzle should be less than 80% diameter = 0.32mm as maximum to get a proper bonding. \n\nSo, I think that you need to download the part and render it again. The time to process this render under XP with an small PC last for 5 minutes. So on bigger PC's will be faster.\n\nHere is the link where I downloaded the \"\"belt Komplett 805\"\" \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8732,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Steve Weems,1.0891412423578797,3.4985313852019835,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Marlin error Rx_buffer not declared in scope,\"After one successful preview of compile, the upload returns error \n\nrx_buffer not defined in this scope. \n\n\nHow do I fix this?\n\",Greenonline,\"The line defining SERIAL_PORT in MarlinSerial.h should read:\n\n#define SERIAL_PORT 0\n\n\nTo [mis-]quote this answer from RepRap:'rx_buffer' was not declared in this scope (the emphasis is mine):\n\n\n#define SERIAL_PORT 4\n\n \n This is the serial port on the controller, not the serial port on your\n computer. 0 through 3 are valid options on a controller with a atmel\n 2560. \n \n Unless you are doing something like serial over bluetooth or\n deliberately not using the USB port you should not change this from 0\n\n\nThe same error is reported on the Arduino forums, 'rx_buffer' was not declared in this scope:\n\n\n Have redone over 5 times and always getting \"\" 'rx_buffer' was not\n declared in this scope \"\".\n \n Now I tried Factory marlin and same \"\"\n 'rx_buffer' was not declared in this scope \"\" . Dont know what to do - I'm\n so lost.\n \n ...\n\n#define SERIAL_PORT 4 //before was 0\n\n \n Nothing else\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8741,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Persistence,1.726248027126092,4.110615265422881,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.082726318457765,Test print coming out spongy,\"I acquired an Anycubic Chiron yesterday. I went through the leveling procedure and I think the level test print came out okay so I printed a 20 mm calibration cube and a benchy. Both of these came out with a sort of spongy consistency.\n\nI have no idea what could be causing this so some advice would be appreciated.\n\nI'm using Ultimaker Cura 4.0.0 and printing in PLA.\n\n\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"I would lay odds on it being your filament is moisture saturated. You don't state what type of filament you're using, but to my understanding this is what happens when it is saturated. The water evaporates as it goes through the nozzle, which causes the filament to puff up, which leaves voids in your print. \n\nThe print itself looks like it came out rather well. I mean, the edges of the print are solid and everything is clearly defined. This would state to me the slicer and the printer itself are doing their jobs well. You didn't measure it (or leave any hint you did), so I'll assume the overall dimensions are good.\n\nTry a different filament and see if you get better results.\n\",0.0,0.0\n8741,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Persistence,1.726248027126092,4.110615265422881,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.082726318457765,Test print coming out spongy,\"I acquired an Anycubic Chiron yesterday. I went through the leveling procedure and I think the level test print came out okay so I printed a 20 mm calibration cube and a benchy. Both of these came out with a sort of spongy consistency.\n\nI have no idea what could be causing this so some advice would be appreciated.\n\nI'm using Ultimaker Cura 4.0.0 and printing in PLA.\n\n\n\",Persistence,\"It turned out I had the wrong filament size set in Ultimaker Cura. Fixing this resolved the issue. \n\n\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n8747,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Stu,1.0891412423578797,3.3819507842569205,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How to improve very poor quality prints on my Ender 3,\"I get very poor quality prints from my Ender 3: The prints are weak, brittle , stringy and contain gaps.\n\nPlease help me sort this as I'm new to 3D printing and have no idea what the problem might be!\n\n\n\nThe prints look like this:\n\n\",darth pixel,\"i would suggest to start with something simpler\n\nthere are many test objects to print and see the results\nplease take a look here\n\nthe idea is to recognise issues (one by one or at least the most basic) and point them and eliminate them directly\n\nlooking at your printout i could of course suggest many things\nbut it would be better to make this process more clear... for you\n\nso you could manage it on your own\n\nto be somehow constructive\n\ni would say there are 3 main issues on the picture you've presented\n\n\nHE temperature\nprinting speed\nnot-so-stiff printer construction (or belt tension)\n\n\nprint test cube and show your results so we can go further\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8750,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,anthony yaghi,1.726248027126092,3.241349471920412,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Tuning PID parameters for hotend,\"I have a TEVO Tornado that I messed a bit with, so basically now I have:\n\n\nMKS GEN 1.4 board\nTMC2130 stepper drivers\nE3D v6 hotend\n\n\nA few days ago the heater cartridge so I replace it with the old one that was on the hotend of the TEVO Tornado. Now ideally both should be 40 W from what I found online but after I replaced it the heating didn't work as expect so I set out to re-tune the PID parameters but no matter what value I try the temperature is always oscillating below the desired temp. Say the desired temp is 200 °C then the head temp will oscillate between 187-200 °C. I tried M303 auto tuning but with no luck for some reason the temperature can't go above 160-170 °C when auto tuning so I get a thermal runaway error. \n\nI tried setting the D term to 0 and then to 1000 but the difference in behavior didn't change a lot which I think is weird... I thought the board might be going crazy so the timing for the PID controller is messed up but the thing is that is was working fine with the old heater cartridge. Any ideas?\n\",anthony yaghi,\"Issue was with PID tuning nothing to do with the hardware. I switched to a duet wifi and used the auto tuning of the reprap firmware and now it is just working beautifully. I guess I was doing the manually tuning in such a bad way and the auto tuning on marlin was not working correctly for me.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8758,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Moltra,2.1782824847157594,4.157832460816437,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,How to connect optocoupler module to ABL sensor and Ender 3 board,\"I am trying to figure out how to wire up Auto Bed Leveling (ABL) on my Ender 3 using the optocoupler and inductive proximity sensor below. \n\nI cannot figure out how to wire it all together, all the tutorials I have found are for 2 and 3 wire per side of the optocoupler.\n\n\n\n\n\",Greenonline,\"This is a bit of an addendum to 0scar's answer, as I didn't want to edit it in to his post.\n\nFor completion, the sensor's internal schematic is on the side of the sensor itself1:\n\n\n\nwhere:\n\n\nPNP - 1 BN - Brown - VSUPPLY\nN/O - 4 BK - Black - Sensor output\n4 mm - 3 BU - Blue - GND\n\n\nHowever, the complete diagram, taken from Instructables - Enable Auto Leveling for Your 3D Printer With an Inductive Sensor (Marlin Firmware), can be seen here:\n\n\n\n\n\nFootnotes\n\n1 Taken from this image, which was on this product page, 4mm Inductive Proximity Approach Sensor Switch PNP NO DC 6-36V 200mA Cylinder:\n\n\n\nThere is a bit more to the schematic, which can be glimpsed here (on the left hand side):\n\n\n\nA fuller, but blurry, view of the left hand side can be seen here, from this product page:\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8758,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Moltra,2.1782824847157594,4.157832460816437,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,How to connect optocoupler module to ABL sensor and Ender 3 board,\"I am trying to figure out how to wire up Auto Bed Leveling (ABL) on my Ender 3 using the optocoupler and inductive proximity sensor below. \n\nI cannot figure out how to wire it all together, all the tutorials I have found are for 2 and 3 wire per side of the optocoupler.\n\n\n\n\n\",0scar,\"Connecting is pretty straightforward like the other modules, difference is an extra input lead.\n\nFrom e.g. here: Module interface description: \n\n\nDC+: Positive DC power supply. \nDC- : Negative DC power supply. \nPWM: Signal input (connect MCU port, PLC interface, DC power supply, etc.) \nGND: The negative terminal of the signal \nOUT+: Positive output terminal (connected to the device positive) \nOUT-: Negative output terminal (connected to device negative)\n\n\nSo, 1 and 2 connect to your power supply that matches the voltage of the logic of your microprocessor (5 V) as this must be linked to 5 and 6 which are connected to the endstop signal and ground respectively.\n\nAs for the sensor, blue is GND, black is signal (PWM) and brown is power as seen in e.g. this answer.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n8760,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Spook,2.1782824847157594,4.043361299226703,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Underextrusion after long travels,\"I'm having problems when printing small parts over big areas.\n\nI'm currently printing quite big casing (~180 mm x 100 mm), which has hexagonal holes on the corners. On the first layer the printer prints, in order:\n\n\nSupports inside the holes, \nBorders around the holes\nBorder of the whole casing and finally \nInfill (since it is first layer, infill is solid)\n\n\nWhen printing borders around holes, printer's head travels between all holes (so that's around 90 % of the whole bed width), what results in filament oozing and the hole borders being underextruded (sometimes to the point, that filament doesn't stick to the bed).\n\nMy setup is CReality3D Ender 3 with Ultimaker Cura 3. Most important settings: \n\n\nPrint speed 40 mm/s\nNozzle temperature 215 °C\nBed temperature 60 °C\nRetraction on travel turned on\nRetraction additional prime amount set to 0.05 mm3.\nOuter walls printed after inner ones\n\n\nWhat would help (I guess) is slowing down the print after long travels or priming more filament, but proportionally to the travel distance. There are no such settings in Ultimaker Cura though.\n\nHow can I deal with such problem?\n\",darth pixel,\"it seems like retraction issue\n\ni would say you should experiment with \n\n\nretraction length - so it would retract more\nextra extrusion after retraction - so the printer could put some material before it will start your next hole :)\n\n\nunfortunately there is no good guide how much it should retract and how much it should additionally extrude as it depends on \"\"all your printing circumstances\"\" but here is my arbitrary list in order of importance\n\n\nfilament (density - type and producer)\ntemperature (viscosity - hotter filament flows easier)\nnozzle diam (as filament escapes easier through big hole ;)\nheat barrier (cooling efficiency - filament should be cool as long as possible up to (or down to) the nozzle)\nextruder gearing quality (good coupling makes precise retraction and extra-extrusion)\ncooling (fan and duct should cool your printing right after it sticks to the surface)\n\n\nand one more thing worth to mention\n\nusually the first layer is not cooled which makes whole system hotter (so filament flows easier)\n\nyou could experiment with it too especially for big printouts \n\nso\n\n\noverextrude first layer AND \nturn on cooling first layer\n\n\nit seems like there is a bunch of things you can do to master it :)\n\ngood luck - it's definitely manageable\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n8760,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Spook,2.1782824847157594,4.043361299226703,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Underextrusion after long travels,\"I'm having problems when printing small parts over big areas.\n\nI'm currently printing quite big casing (~180 mm x 100 mm), which has hexagonal holes on the corners. On the first layer the printer prints, in order:\n\n\nSupports inside the holes, \nBorders around the holes\nBorder of the whole casing and finally \nInfill (since it is first layer, infill is solid)\n\n\nWhen printing borders around holes, printer's head travels between all holes (so that's around 90 % of the whole bed width), what results in filament oozing and the hole borders being underextruded (sometimes to the point, that filament doesn't stick to the bed).\n\nMy setup is CReality3D Ender 3 with Ultimaker Cura 3. Most important settings: \n\n\nPrint speed 40 mm/s\nNozzle temperature 215 °C\nBed temperature 60 °C\nRetraction on travel turned on\nRetraction additional prime amount set to 0.05 mm3.\nOuter walls printed after inner ones\n\n\nWhat would help (I guess) is slowing down the print after long travels or priming more filament, but proportionally to the travel distance. There are no such settings in Ultimaker Cura though.\n\nHow can I deal with such problem?\n\",R..,\"Set retraction_min_travel to 0. The default value is 1.5 and skips retraction when moving less than 1.5 mm. This leads to serious oozing whenever your print has small travel, which seems likely between the hole walls and the supports inside the holes.\n\nAlso, the \"\"custom start gcode\"\" in Cura's Ender 3 configuration seriously over-primes the extruder, possibly making retraction ineffective until the pressure drops. Lowering the E15 and E30 amounts to E9 and E18 improved things a lot for me, especially with flex filament, but also with normal PLA. Printing a skirt or brim would probably be an alternative if you don't feel up to editing that part of the config.\n\nIncreasing the retraction amount could also help. You should not need extra prime after travel. It can only help if you've lost material to oozing during travel, and if you have oozing, that's a problem in itself that you need to solve, not paper over by extruding additional material.\n\",0.0,0.0\n8765,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ARandomPerson,1.726248027126092,2.7669748712461706,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Unbonding Hot Glue,\"I made a print that involves joining two halves together to create the full model. I decided to use hot glue to bond the halves and on one model, the parts came together slightly skewed. Is there any way to ‘unbond’ the hot glue without ruining the model so I can realign the pieces? Touching the glue gun tip to the hot glue wouldn’t work, as the glue is inside the model.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Depending on the composition of your model, the heat you've applied by using the glue gun has distorted the surfaces, or they haven't. One would hope that the model is composed of material that is not unduly damaged by the heat of the gun.\n\nI suggest that if you can test the material of the model independent of the misaligned item, you can determine if my answer will work.\n\nApply hot glue to a test section, let it cure. Secure another portion to the test, but apply it in such a manner as to be displaced by gravity if it is not cooled. The first part should be \"\"locked\"\" to a surface, while the second should be free to move if not glued/cured.\n\nPlace the section in a small heated chamber such as a toaster oven. Observe the parts as you slowly increase the heat. When you see the unsecured part begin to slide/move, you've determined the temperature at which the hot glue releases.\n\nAccording to a quick search, hot glue melts between 120°C and 200°C. The latter temperature is for specific high temperature sticks, while the lower number is for low temp sticks. PLA printing temperatures are often above 200°C, which gives you some leeway.\n\nUnfortunately, PLA will soften before it melts and that can happen well below the melting point.\n\nTesting will give you more definitive results.\n\nIf your testing appears promising, you may be able to place the model in the oven at the predetermined temperature, let it reach softening temperature, then slide the parts into position.\n\nEDIT: A second option...\n\nI've had a new attack pop into my alleged mind. I recall reading that alcohol will help clear hot glue and a quick 'net search confirms that both isopropyl alcohol and denatured alcohol will work on cleaning up hot glue.\n\nI can attest that denatured alcohol does no harm to PLA or to ABS and we use it at the maker space to create a faster release from the PEI bed. Of course, if the model has tight fit, it's going to be much more time consuming to get sufficient alcohol into the gap to free it up.\n\nI'd consider an ultrasonic cleaner with a bin full of denatured alcohol as the first option, even over the pre-heat above.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n8765,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ARandomPerson,1.726248027126092,2.7669748712461706,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Unbonding Hot Glue,\"I made a print that involves joining two halves together to create the full model. I decided to use hot glue to bond the halves and on one model, the parts came together slightly skewed. Is there any way to ‘unbond’ the hot glue without ruining the model so I can realign the pieces? Touching the glue gun tip to the hot glue wouldn’t work, as the glue is inside the model.\n\",Trish,\"What is on the market as Hot Glue - or rather \"\"Hot Melt Adhedive\"\" (HMA) is usually a slightly ductile, thermoplastic that sticks to most surfaces because it can easily mold into slight deformations. \n\nHMA basics\n\nOne of the most common base thermoplastics is Ethylene-vinyl acetate, aka EVA, mixed with terpene-phenol resin (TPR) to make it tackier and wax, like paraffin, as a filler to make it more economical. These HMA's are usually rated for 30-50 °C ambient temperature and start to soften enough for stress creep at 60-80 °C. Using this low level of heat might allow forcing the parts to move slowly without getting into the more dangerous zone of 120-200 °C, where the HMA actually melts and PLA follows suit. \n\nCAUTION!\n\nYet we got a problem: many PLA mixtures I have encountered do soften enough at temperatures around 60 °C (like sitting in a hot car) so the print can be deformed permanently. This finding for non-annealed PLA also matches with what Stefan of CNC Kitchen found in a temperature resistance test. He found in the conclusion that 55-60 °C starts to affect non-annealed PLA while tempered PLA can withstand 160 °C to 180 °C, depending on the blend.\n\nCutting\n\nHowever, most HMA formulas result in a material that can be carved and cut with a sharp knife. As long as your halves don't have interlocking lugs that block access to the plug of HMA, you could use a long, thin blade to slowly cut the halves apart.\n\nLocalized heat\n\nAnother solution might be coming in the shape of a soldering iron: by using it to apply the heat more localized than with a hot air gun, the HMA plug might get softened and then either removed in pieces or realigned. This needs considerable control over the heating and a careful hand. As an alternative, if the halves are not too much skewed from their intended positions, a hot soldering iron might be used to smooth over the edge, but it would destroy surface details.\n\nWhat to do better next time?\n\nThere are basically two things that could help to prevent misalignment before the HMA application step:\n\n\nAlignment lugs/notches would make sure the pieces snap into position.\nIf none are present, holding the piece into position and spot-welding in some none visible places - for example using friction welding as explained by Polymaker - can help to keep the pieces in position before the addition of the HMA.\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n9770,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ALEX,0.0,2.835469776828434,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Trouble with sizing in Fusion 360,\"I had imported a .stl file into Fusion 360- from Blender, but I couldn't size it to my required dimensions. Then I tried to make an object in Fusion. It works but when I want to size it (by hitting the D key) it says:\n\n\n [Error: Sketch geometry is over constrained]...\n\n\nI realise if I add a sketch, that is flat I can size with D key but if I extrude it I couldn't size it any more. Same thing if I add a 3D object for example a box. Anyway I add a point on a face of that body (in the middle), then I could size it from that point to a edge but that all.\n\n\nWhat did I do wrong and why I couldn't I size that body?\nHow do I suppose to size it?\nWith the .stl file imported from Blender or with the body made by me in Fusion 360?\n\n\nPlease help me understand how this site works with size...\n\",Levi Giesbrecht,\"Welcome to SE.3DP! \n\nFirst off, F360 isn't the best with STL files. If you're having trouble with constraints and dimensions, I would suggest watching this Maker's Muse video first: How to use Constraints! CAD for Newbies with Fusion 360.\n\nSecond, Fusion360 is very tricky with importing STL's. My steps below should help.\n\n\nIn the lower right-hand corner, at the rightmost end of the timeline, you'll see a little gear. When you click on the gear, click the very top option: \"\"Do not capture design history\"\". This puts you into Direct Modelling mode.\nIn the top left-hand corner, where it says \"\"Model\"\", and select \"\"Mesh\"\" from the menu.\nAlong the toolbar, in the \"\"Create\"\" section, click \"\"Insert mesh\"\". When that's done, go back to the top left where it now says \"\"Mesh\"\" and use the menu to go back to \"\"Model\"\".\nNow that you're back in \"\"Model\"\", go to the \"\"Modify\"\" menu. In there, find the \"\"Mesh\"\" section, and in that box, click \"\"Mesh to BRep\"\". That will convert your STL into a Fusion360 file that you can edit.\n\n\nNow, if you want to use constraints, I would suggest sketching out your object entirely in Fusion, making constraints and dimensions along the way. I know it's annoying, but it'll be easier to modify it in Fusion.\nHope that helps!\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n9771,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Avishka Kavindu B. Dambawinna,2.1782824847157594,3.5067276254879127,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Pronterface not connecting ERROR: A device attached to the system is not functioning,\"I'm assembling a 3D printer with the RAMPS 1.4 shield (board) and an Arduino Mega. I have assembled the structure and the electronics (set drivers, placed the jumpers, connected stepper motors, etc.) and have uploaded Marlin firmware (configuring: thermistor, etc.) on to the Arduino Mega.\n\nAt first I tested my printer without end stops and at that time it worked perfectly.\n\nToday I added three end stops and tested again. First it worked fine but after couple of minutes Pronterface gave this error:\n\n> Connecting...\nTraceback (most recent call last):\n File \"\"printrun\\pronterface.pyc\"\", line 1053, in connect\n File \"\"printrun\\pronsole.pyc\"\", line 720, in connect_to_printer\n File \"\"printrun\\printcore.pyc\"\", line 46, in inner\n File \"\"printrun\\printcore.pyc\"\", line 197, in connect\n File \"\"serial\\serialwin32.pyc\"\", line 31, in __init__\n File \"\"serial\\serialutil.pyc\"\", line 261, in __init__\n File \"\"serial\\serialwin32.pyc\"\", line 71, in open\n File \"\"serial\\serialwin32.pyc\"\", line 186, in _reconfigurePort\n**ValueError: Cannot configure port, some setting was wrong. Original message: [Error 31] A device attached to the system is not functioning.**\n\n\nI tried removing end stops, re-wiring, removing all cables from the RAMPS shield except power cables. Still it gives that error. Although Pronterface connects to the Arduino board when the RAMPS shield isn't powered up. Also the Arduino's regulator is heating up.\n\nDo I need to buy a new RAMPS shield? \n\",Avishka Kavindu B. Dambawinna,\"Finally, I found the solution after frying up a Mega board. The problem is with the Mega board. Part of the board is not functioning properly or not connecting with the RAMPS 1.4 shield properly. So I tried with a new Arduino Mega board and it worked. \nAlso removing the D1 diode is the solution for the voltage regulator overheating on Arduino mega board as mentioned in question \"\"Arduino Mega voltage regulator overheats with RAMPS board\"\".\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n9779,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,thaimin,1.0891412423578797,2.704143814960767,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"Printing with Nylon 6,10\",\"Can Nylon 6,10 be used for 3D FDM printing? What range of temperatures be used to print with it? How does it compare to the standard 3D printing Nylon material (I think it is 6,6).\n\",Trish,\"Based on the information from a Quorra question about what the difference between Nylon 6,10 and Nylon 6,6 is and a ULprospector article, we can establish:\n\n\n6,6 is a smaller molecule than 6,10.\nBase materials are different - hexamethylene diamine and adipic acid (6,6) compared to hexamethylene diamine and sebacic acid (6,10)\n6,6 has a stronger tensile and compressive strength as it is more densely interlocked, but it also has a higher melting point. This means also that 6,6 is more heat tolerant.\n6,6 is also known to have the least degradation of strength under moisture, compared to other Polyamides.\nHOWEVER, 6,6 has a lesser resistance to weak acids compared to 6,10, it is also the most sensitive to UV-light and degradation from air exposure.\n6,10 also bests 6,6 in regards to absorbing less moisture (a large problem with 6,6), but is more expensive than it.\nRecently 6,12 is replacing 6,10 for it has very similar or better properties while being cheaper.\n\n\nWhile I see no problem with the technical ability to make a Nylon 6,10 or Nylon 6,12 filament and print with it (the lower hygroscopic of the larger molecules might make that even easier), you will make a compromise in other areas of the material, most liekly cost and availability - to my knowledge no filament that claims to be Nylon 6,10 or Nylon 6,12 is on the market at the time of this writing (April 2019), and as such there are no known benchmarks for print settings needed are available. I would expect the print temperature to be slightly lower than that of Nylon 6,6 though.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n9780,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,rgov,2.1782824847157594,3.736419581230668,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Removing glue residue on part after printing,\"Following advice I read elsewhere, I have covered my (heated) print bed with blue painter's tape, and before each print I apply an Elmer's purple washable glue stick to improve bed adhesion.\n\nAfter the print finishes and I remove the part from the bed, the bottom is covered with a white residue. I'm fairly certain this is the dried glue. It turns purple again when I wet it.\n\nIs there an easy way to clean off this residue, or is there a better technique?\n\n\n\",Trish,\"Elmer's Purple Gluestick is pretty much based on PVA with a water-indicator. It is a water-soluble material. Tossing the piece into a water bin and brushing it with a toothbrush should remove everything.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n9780,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,rgov,2.1782824847157594,3.736419581230668,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Removing glue residue on part after printing,\"Following advice I read elsewhere, I have covered my (heated) print bed with blue painter's tape, and before each print I apply an Elmer's purple washable glue stick to improve bed adhesion.\n\nAfter the print finishes and I remove the part from the bed, the bottom is covered with a white residue. I'm fairly certain this is the dried glue. It turns purple again when I wet it.\n\nIs there an easy way to clean off this residue, or is there a better technique?\n\n\n\",Pommie,\"I have two different makes of masking tape. The print stick so well to one of them that I end up ripping the tape up to get it off and the bottom of the print has the tape suck to it. The other roll was the complete opposite, nothing would stick to it. I ended up using the non-stick tape and applied a diluted (30% PVA - 70% water) glue to the (tape covered) hot bed. Works wonderfully.\n\nMike.\n\",0.0,0.0\n9783,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Asia Martinis,2.1782824847157594,2.9816351676497708,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Can I replace a damaged firmware of a 3D printer based on Arduino Mega?,\"I have acquired a second hand 3D printer, the GEEETECH I3 Pro B. The previous owner tried to change the firmware but he made a mistake and he bricked the board. \n\nI want to substitute the firmware of the board (which is an Arduino Mega 2560 based board). Do you think is possible if the board doesn't respond to the controls?\n\nI have inquired and found an open source software called Marlin I want to use to restore the printer.\n\nIf you have an advice or you think that I can do it in any ways tell me.\n\",0scar,\"It is hard to diagnose the board without hands on experience. It is even more difficult if you get a board that has been \"\"updated/upgraded\"\" by a previous owner leaving it not in working condition.\n\nBut, there are at least 2 solutions.\n\n\nYou could buy a new printer controller board, upload new firmware and connect all connectors.\nYou could try to burn a new bootloader onto your current board and upload a new version of the firmware.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n9794,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tanius,3.0576060275493275,3.619173000051646,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.929104701733314,4.410384278773418,How to prevent z-fighting in OpenSCAD?,\"Z-fighting is a 3D rendering artifact of coplanar surfaces (means, triangles are located in exactly the same plane, and overlap).\n\nIt can happen in OpenSCAD's preview mode when doing a difference() or union() operation. In case of difference(), the rendering artifacts can prevent seeing into a hole in the object. The \"\"compile and render\"\" mode in OpenSCAD does not have z-fighting issues. But since it can take some time to render an object in that mode, it is not a practical solution during development.\n\nHow best to avoid z-fighting?\n\nIf the answer involves changes to my OpenSCAD code, I would love to see an idiomatic answer / established convention of OpenSCAD coders, if that exists.\n\",tanius,\"The general advice in the OpenSCAD community is to \"\"extend your cuts and embed your joins\"\" (source). The rendering artifacts are one thing but rather just an annoyance; however z-fighting can also cause unexpected errors during STL export (I did not experience that myself so far, just read this somewhere).\n\nSo you would change the dimensions of your objects very slightly (0.01 mm works fine) so that:\n\n\nfor a union(), there is overlap volume between the parts \nfor a difference(), the intersector has volume both inside and outside of the intersected part\n\n\nNow you could adjust both the size and position of your parts to keep the mathematically exact dimensions for the resulting part. But I found that for the purposes of 3D printing, such accuracy is not worth it because it complicates the formulas so much.\n\nInstead, I adjust either position or size of a part, depending on what is simpler in each case. A measure in the final design will be off by 0.01 mm, which does not matter.\n\nAnd I keep the 0.01 mm offset in a variable called nothing (picked that up somewhere and liked it …). This keeps the calculations intuitively understandable.\n\nExample\n\nTo create a cylinder and cut a hole to half of its depth, I would do this:\n\n//!OpenSCAD\nnothing=0.01;\nheight=40;\n\ndifference(){\n cylinder(h=height, r=20, center=true);\n\n translate([0, 0, height/4 + nothing]) \n cylinder(h=height/2, r=15, center=true);\n}\n\n\nNow the hole is nothing=0.01 less deep than half of the cylinder – that's the inaccuracy I accept.\n\n(Note: If you don't have OpenSCAD installed, you can also try the above code online by copy & pasting it into OpenJSCAD. Include the magic comment in the first line to switch it to OpenSCAD syntax.)\n\",3.367452517504837,2.0769199823829045\n9820,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Rosalie W,2.1782824847157594,4.726144814090859,2.7799718631987322,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Specifying Z offset in Marlin firmware,\"I need to set a Z offset for the Flying bear P902. I calculated the offset (-2.98). But, every time when I try to input this using the LCD screen of my 3D printer, the value jumps to either -2.99 or -2.97. As -2.97 is just a little bit too far from the bed and -2.99 is just a little bit too close to the bed (and -2.98 is perfect), I really want to input this specific value. I have tried many times on the LCD screen and also in the firmware itself. \n\nBut, even after uploading the firmware, it still displays -2.97. \n\nThis is the line of code I was changing: \n\n#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -2.98 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]\n\n\nIs there a way I can input -2.98?\n\",0scar,\"Z-offset persitently stored in memory?\n\nMaybe the value of -2.97 for the Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER is retained in the EEPROM memory when you upload new firmware.\n\nYou could try to send the G-code M502 to the machine to re-load the values from the firmware overwriting currently stored values.\n\nAlternative Z-offset using G-code commands\n\nNote that there is a different (and more common) solution to set the Z-offset using G-code M851, you can do this after you uploaded the firmware to the printer. Sending G-code commands can be done using printer software and a USB connection to the printer through a so-called terminal interface. This can be done in OctoPrint, Repetier-Host, Pronterface (Printrun software suite), and probably many more. Alternatively, you could make seperate G-code (basically text files with extension .g) files with each step in a single file and \"\"print\"\" the files through the SD interface of the printer menu.\n\nThe following strategy must be followed to specify the Z offset:\n\n\nHeat your printer up to your printing temperature and allow a few minutes for it to expand and settle\nReset the existing Z-offset to zero M851 Z0\nHome all axes G28\nMove the nozzle to the middle of the bed G1 X110 Y110 (if your bed is 220 x 220)\nTurn off the software endstops with M211 S0\nMove the nozzle down so it is just gripping a piece of standard printer paper\nSet the Z-offset to the displayed value. E.g. if the printer displays a Z-Value of -1.23 enter M851 Z-1.23\nStore it to the EEPROM M500\nImportant notice! Enable the endstops again with M211 S1 or the printer head will collide with the bed on the next G28 command\n\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n9821,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user1053263,2.528907649931287,3.612224941552368,0.0,4.022883302450398,4.091740895605862,3.7272071097011072,Print came out like a wafer,\"I'm not sure how else to describe it. There's probably a name for this but I just don't know it. But the bottom few layers came out great, but the rest came out kind of like a triscuit. Below are pics of my print and settings. I am using a delta style printer. Can someone tell me what this issue is called and how to fix it?\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\",Valmond,\"Just to add to the already made answers:\n\nCheck out heat-creep!\n\nWhen heat from the hot-end creeps up in the filament, it melts and blocks the extrusion (more or less severely), and under extrusion results.\n\nIt's basic characteristic is that the print starts out great, and then some time in, under extrusion happens.\n\nThe solution is to cool down the cold part of the hot-end which is usually done with a small fan directed onto the cold part, e.g the top part where the filament enters the hot-end.\n\nMost hot-ends have a heat sink on the cold part, but in my experience this is not enough and for me a fan has always been needed.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n9821,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user1053263,2.528907649931287,3.612224941552368,0.0,4.022883302450398,4.091740895605862,3.7272071097011072,Print came out like a wafer,\"I'm not sure how else to describe it. There's probably a name for this but I just don't know it. But the bottom few layers came out great, but the rest came out kind of like a triscuit. Below are pics of my print and settings. I am using a delta style printer. Can someone tell me what this issue is called and how to fix it?\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\",0scar,\"The phenomenon you experience is called under-extrusion. Under-extrusion is the effect of extruding lesser filament than required for the print. The result of under-extrusion (depending on the amount of under-extrusion) can be described as spongy prints, gaps in prints/layers, failed prints, etc. As the amount of plastic flow is less than required for the print, the quality and print strength is much lower than that of a normal filament flow printed part.\n\nMost severe under-extrusion is usually caused by incorrect filament diameter setting. E.g. Ultimaker Cura (to date, April 2019, the version is 4.0) is notorious for resetting the filament diameter to 2.85 mm after you upgraded to a newer version (because that is the diameter of the filament the Ultimaker machines use) while most people use 1.75 mm diameter filament.\n\nFrom the settings if appears you have set the correct filament diameter (i.e. if you use 1.75 mm filament). Please measure the filament over a few meters and determine the average filament diameter to be sure.\n\nIn your case it must be something else!\n\nA higher temperature causes filament to be more fluid (do check if the temperature you use fits the type of filament you use), so an increased temperature should help against under-extrusion (less friction for the extruder to push the filament through the nozzle). Please do check the extruder stepper; is it skipping?, is the tension the extruder gear exerts on the filament enough to prevent slipping?\n\nFinally, blockage of the nozzle; partial blockage of the nozzle can prevent consistent flow from the nozzle. It is advised to rigorously clean the nozzle (e.g. using the atomic cleaning method where you heat up the nozzle insert filament and turn off the heat to pull the filament out when temperature is about 30 °C lower than the printing temperature of the filament) or replace the nozzle.\n\",3.5068404193471867,2.0769199823829045\n9833,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pedro Miguel Pimienta Morales,2.1782824847157594,3.6087242797820243,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Is it possible to know which is the correct temperature range and speed for any model?,\"Trying to print a 3D model for my mobile phone, but I see that when printing the sides, being thin, increases the retraction and the recoil seems a little abrupt and makes a coarse sound.\n\nI would like to know if it is possible to know what speed and temperature is recommended to print a model.\n\nIn my case I use Simplify3D, and when I'm going to save the file in .gcode format, I see that there are some ranges shown in colors, how does this apply to the models?\n\n\n\",0scar,\"The first indication for print speed and temperature should be taken from the box the filament comes in. Generally it specifies temperature ranges for the hotend and the heated bed. Sometime, mostly online, more parameters can be found amongst which is the printing speed. \n\nDo note that temperature and printing speed are linked, if you want to print faster you should increase the temperature. But, if you are printing small or thin things you should print slower so that the part cools enough for the next layer. Basically, part cooling is then also important, but not all filament types (e.g. the ones with a high melt temperature like ABS or PETG) like being cooled too much. So you have another parameter to consider.\n\nIt is difficult to instruct you to print at a certain speed and certain temperatures as it is highly depending on the filament (e.g. also the filament diameter), the machine type/make and model, extruder setup (direct or Bowden), the print, enclosure, etc.\n\nBecause of the many parameters affecting printing, it is usually suggested to calibrate the printer by printing a temperature tower or performing retraction tests to find the print window for your specific setup.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n9833,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pedro Miguel Pimienta Morales,2.1782824847157594,3.6087242797820243,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Is it possible to know which is the correct temperature range and speed for any model?,\"Trying to print a 3D model for my mobile phone, but I see that when printing the sides, being thin, increases the retraction and the recoil seems a little abrupt and makes a coarse sound.\n\nI would like to know if it is possible to know what speed and temperature is recommended to print a model.\n\nIn my case I use Simplify3D, and when I'm going to save the file in .gcode format, I see that there are some ranges shown in colors, how does this apply to the models?\n\n\n\",Craig Bennett,\"So as someone else on here mention, those settings shouldn't be for the model but for the filament. Sadly, you will need to test 99% of filaments to really figure this out. I have a modify tester, and on the description it tells you how to set your temp. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3347967\n\nYou can look at the remix if you want to grab the blank model and put your own numbers on it.\nIt should be noted that things like water in the filament can mess with how the filament reacts to speed and temp. If you have questionable prints coming out of a filament that sat there for a long time. You can easily run it through the test to figure out the temp.\n\nAnything else I could add is would just repeat what most of 0scar said.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n9862,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pedro Miguel Pimienta Morales,1.726248027126092,2.9728043627528558,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Can a model change size when using a different filament type?,\"I printed a case for my phone, a Motorola G4 Plus. I found the model of the casing on Thingiverse\n\nI just downloaded the model, used Meshmixer to check for issues, after that, opened Simplify3d and saved it for printing using an SD Card. The printed size of the model was smaller than expected.\n\nThe model designer, says in the description that he used flexible filament. Is it possible than if I change to that filament, the model result is completely different? \n\nPrint result - phone casing:\n\n\n\n\n\",darth pixel,\"Of course it can change size... but definitely not in scale you've presented.\n\nFilament as same as many other materials can subject something called shrinkage. It depends on physical properties of the material and as its name suggests cause the dimensions to shrink.\n\nHere is wikipedia article.\n\nThe same happens to almost all plastics.\nBut this phenomenon is almost unnoticeable in terms of PLA... well not really...\n\nBending is mostly caused by shrinkage. We have heated beds (among others) to prevent it. And we use adhesives also to prevent bending so to prevent effects of shrinkage.\n\nIt can be also noticed when you print specific volume (and/or specific base surface) and you left the model on the HB until it cools down - the model can come off the HB on it's own even when adhesive was used.\n\nBut your \"\"shrinkage\"\" is definitely not that one.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n9862,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pedro Miguel Pimienta Morales,1.726248027126092,2.9728043627528558,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Can a model change size when using a different filament type?,\"I printed a case for my phone, a Motorola G4 Plus. I found the model of the casing on Thingiverse\n\nI just downloaded the model, used Meshmixer to check for issues, after that, opened Simplify3d and saved it for printing using an SD Card. The printed size of the model was smaller than expected.\n\nThe model designer, says in the description that he used flexible filament. Is it possible than if I change to that filament, the model result is completely different? \n\nPrint result - phone casing:\n\n\n\n\n\",0scar,\"No, choosing a different filament type will not result in a different size (unless you use PLA that foams on extrusion, it increases size but then again all other dimensions would not fit either as it expands uniformly). The overall dimensions are defined by the coordinates in the G-code file which is based on the geometry of the model. If the printed model has dimensions that differ in the region of centimeters (like shown in your images) a different filament type will not change the size. Differences in the order of fractions of a millimeter are possible.\n\nProbably the size has accidentally changed while loading the model in one of the tools prior to slicing to G-code.\n\n\n\nSidenote; there are techniques to anneal PLA after printing, you will then observe changes in the size of the part you printed, but I don't think you have annealed the print. From the link above:\n\n\n On average, you’ll see PLA shrinkage of about 5% and growth of about 2% along the relevant axes. If this shrinkage and growth is going to be a problem, you can compensate for it beforehand during the design and printing processes.\n\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n9989,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pedro Miguel Pimienta Morales,1.726248027126092,2.9362955533623216,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,What is the correct way to export SVG in order to convert to STL?,\"I made a simple logo using Inkscape, after saving as an svg file, but when I export that file into Fusion 360 something strange happened. \n\nMultiple times I convert some images (png, svg) to svg file. The process I use is this: \n\n\nScan logo image (scanner or smartphone)\nOpen image with Inkscape\nUsing the stroke, generate the shape\nAll process for generate and save\n\n\nThis process explained above always works for me, when I copy the shape using the stroke in Inkscape.\n\nHowever, when I was do the process using the shape generator - for example, rectangles, circles, squares, etc. - and export the file into the Fusion 360, it doesn't work. \n\n1 - Inkscape logo\n\n\n\n2 - Logo import to Fusion 360\n\n\n\nIn the example above, the first word does not appear.\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"Considering the simplicity of your sample design - i.e. basically only two different Z-levels, easily distinguished by color - I'd recommend one of the online image-to-3D model converters. Here are two I've used now and then. You may have to save your image as png or jpg instead of svg.\n\nselva3d and 3dp.rocks\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n9989,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pedro Miguel Pimienta Morales,1.726248027126092,2.9362955533623216,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,What is the correct way to export SVG in order to convert to STL?,\"I made a simple logo using Inkscape, after saving as an svg file, but when I export that file into Fusion 360 something strange happened. \n\nMultiple times I convert some images (png, svg) to svg file. The process I use is this: \n\n\nScan logo image (scanner or smartphone)\nOpen image with Inkscape\nUsing the stroke, generate the shape\nAll process for generate and save\n\n\nThis process explained above always works for me, when I copy the shape using the stroke in Inkscape.\n\nHowever, when I was do the process using the shape generator - for example, rectangles, circles, squares, etc. - and export the file into the Fusion 360, it doesn't work. \n\n1 - Inkscape logo\n\n\n\n2 - Logo import to Fusion 360\n\n\n\nIn the example above, the first word does not appear.\n\",Trish,\"It seems you use Fusion 360. So I will answer for that, based on Autodesk Help:\n\nMake the SVG\n\nYou need to design your SVG to be just the outlines of your logo. That you can easily do in Inkscape by setting the fill to transparent. Then you need to define a size before exporting it properly.\n\nImport the SVG\n\n\nInsert Menu\n\n\nInsert SVG\n\nSelect the plane you want to put the SVG on\nSelect the folder icon\n\n\nchoose the SVG\n\nadjust the sizing and positioning\nOK\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10317,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pedro Miguel Pimienta Morales,3.0576060275493275,4.563587938123535,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.7272071097011072,Why is the printed object smaller than original model?,\"I am printing a small cylinder, but when the object is finished, it's smaller than the measures I used when create the model.\n\nI used thincerkad to make a simple model, the measures are:\n\n\nwidth: 90 mm\nheight: 2 mm\n\n\nAfter the print was done, the actual dimensions were:\n\n\nwidth: 70 mm\nheight: 2 mm\n\n\nPictures\n\nFirst attempt\n\n\n\nThe smaller object that's in the drawn circle was the first one printed, the dimensions I used were:\n\n\nwidth: 110 mm\nheight: 2 mm\n\n\nThen I printed it again, and the result was:\n\n\n\",0scar,\"Let's do the math, you printed something of size 9 cm and got a size of 7 cm. This implies that the scale equals $\\frac{7}{9}=0.778$. In order to print it at the correct size, you should have printed the object at scale $\\frac{1}{0.778}=1.286$; so 28.6 % bigger, i.e. $1.286\\times9=11.6$ cm. You printed at 11 cm, so the print should become smaller than the pencil drawn circle on the paper. This is actually what you see in the image you supplied.\n\nThis can imply 2 things, you either scale the prints incorrectly to export to stl (but that is unlikely because the Z height is correct), or the steps per mm are incorrectly set in the firmware of your printer. The rotation of the steppers (usually 200 steps) need to be translated into linear movement; this depends on the used pulleys mounted on the steppers (typically used pulleys are: 16 or 20 teeth for belt driven X and Y axes).\n\nCalibrating the steps per mm of the extruder is answered in this answer. For the X and Y axis this works the same. If you have a Marlin based printer firmware, send G-code M503 to the printer over a terminal interface as e.g. OctoPrint, Pronterface (as part from Printrun: 3D printing host suite), Repetier-Host have, you can obtain the current values from the reply; these are listed under M92.\n\nThat value for X and Y needs to be multiplied by 1.286 (as an example) to get the correct dimensions. You do this by sending G-code M92 like M92 X100.00 Y100.00 (see this answer that explains which values you should use based on pulleys you use, either 80 or 100) to the printer, to keep these values they need to be stored in memory using G-code M500 (note that the values 100.00 should be replaced by the values you get by multiplying the return values for X and Y from M503 by the 1.286 multiplication factor, only if the error is systematically increasing with print dimensions, otherwise stick to the calculated values from e.g. the Prusa belt calculator). \n\nWithout the proper steps per mm, you will not be able to use the full potential of the bed. An alternative as scaling your prints by the appropriate scaling factor will only help if your scaled print is smaller than the bed size divided by that scaling factor, so no use of the full bed. Rather fix the firmware to fit the actual mechanical layout.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n10317,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pedro Miguel Pimienta Morales,3.0576060275493275,4.563587938123535,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.7272071097011072,Why is the printed object smaller than original model?,\"I am printing a small cylinder, but when the object is finished, it's smaller than the measures I used when create the model.\n\nI used thincerkad to make a simple model, the measures are:\n\n\nwidth: 90 mm\nheight: 2 mm\n\n\nAfter the print was done, the actual dimensions were:\n\n\nwidth: 70 mm\nheight: 2 mm\n\n\nPictures\n\nFirst attempt\n\n\n\nThe smaller object that's in the drawn circle was the first one printed, the dimensions I used were:\n\n\nwidth: 110 mm\nheight: 2 mm\n\n\nThen I printed it again, and the result was:\n\n\n\",Perplexed Dipole,\"Are you using the stock firmware of your printer? Sounds like to me that you have 16 tooth pulleys and your firmware is set to 20 tooth i.e. 80 steps per mm\n\nThe calculation behind the steps per mm is $\\frac{\\text{Steps per Revolution} \\times Microsteps}{Teeth \\times Pitch}$. The reason for this is that one revolution of the pulley will move the belt the number of teeth times the pitch of the belt. Now take the total number of steps, Steps per Revolution times microsteps, and divide by the distance moved giving the steps per mm.\n\nIn $\\underline{most}$ hobby 3D printers you have:\n\n\n1.8 degrees steppers which equals $\\frac{360}{1.8}=200$ steps per revolution , Less common is 0.9 degrees steppers $\\frac{360}{0.9}=400$\nGT2 is the most common belts now which have a pitch of 2mm\nThe two most common pulleys are 16 tooth and 20 tooth, \nDepending on what stepper drivers and or configuration you have\n\n\nA4988 $\\to$ 16 microsteps\nDRV8825 $\\to$ 32 microsteps\nTrinamic $\\to$ 16-256 mircosteps\n\n\n\nIn your situation I believe you have a 1.8 degree stepper with 16 microsteps, a gt2 belt, and a 16 tooth pulley. Which means your XY steps per mm should be $\\frac{200 \\times 16}{16 \\times 2} = 100$. While your firmware is expecting 20 tooth pulleys, yielding $\\frac{200 \\times 16}{20 \\times 2} = 80$. This would result in your prints being $\\frac{100-80}{100} = 20\\%$ smaller, which explains your results with the circles.\n\nGeneralizing, the steppers, microsteps, and pitch don't matter. To go between 16 tooth pulleys to 20 tooth, multiply by $0.8=\\frac{16}{20}$. From 20 tooth to 16 tooth, multiply by $1.25=\\frac{20}{16}$.\n\",3.0411126502294303,0.0\n10659,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pedro Miguel Pimienta Morales,0.0,2.8568583264187786,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Changes rods for linear rails,\"I would like to know if it is possible to change the rollers for linear rails, just replacing or some calculation should be done and take some precautions.\n\nIn my case, I have a Core XY DIY printer.\n\n\n\n\n\nI was reading about need to migrate of 8 Bits to 32 Bits, because for get better resolution, results and should be update more things, like add autolevel, etc.\n\",0scar,\"I've seen mods for the Hypercube (and Hypercube Evolution) using linear rails (e.g. this mod), so yes that is possible. You need to redesign a few parts and make sure you have the correct length, but that shouldn't be too difficult.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n10888,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pedro Miguel Pimienta Morales,2.8153892694839717,4.063518463711386,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Export STL as ASCII or binary?,\"When go to export a model using Fusion 360 or Meshmixer, I see that there are two options. Could the final model be affected by the format chosen at the time of saving?\n\n\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"You should always pick the binary option. ASCII files are larger and slower to save and load. There's no reason to ever use ASCII unless you are using software that is incompatible with binary files.\n\n\n Could the final model be affected by the format chosen at the time of saving?\n\n\nIn practice, the model will not be affected by either choice. There are some subtle differences between the two formats, such as binary being able to store an attribute per triangle (which is sometimes used to represent colour), ASCII being able to store a \"\"name\"\" for the solid in a file while binary can store an 80-byte header containing metadata, binary being limited to 32 bits of precision while ASCII theoretically has the option to use arbitrary precision. However, for 99.9% of all use cases there is no difference, so it is preferable to use binary for its smaller file size.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10888,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Pedro Miguel Pimienta Morales,2.8153892694839717,4.063518463711386,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Export STL as ASCII or binary?,\"When go to export a model using Fusion 360 or Meshmixer, I see that there are two options. Could the final model be affected by the format chosen at the time of saving?\n\n\n\",Dan Hulme,\"The two formats contain the same information about the model, but the binary format is much more compact, so it will produce smaller files from the same part but they should work the same. That's to say, if you take the exact same model, save it as a binary STL and as an ASCII STL, the binary STL file will take up fewer bytes on disk. The number of triangles and the dimensions of the printed model will stay the same.\n\nThere are a couple of important exceptions here:\n\n\nI don't know about Meshmixer specifically, but some tools will have completely different code paths for exporting the two formats. One exporter may have a bug that the other exporter doesn't. The same is true of the slicer, which may have a bug reading one of the two kinds of STL but not the other. In this case, it'll make a huge difference which one you use, but you'll only find out when one goes wrong. This is what fred_dot_u experienced in his answer.\nSome tools have a way of putting colour information into the binary STL format, which isn't possible with the ASCII format. If your model has coloured triangles, you might find that the binary STL preserves the colours, while the ASCII STL loses the colours. Whether this matters to you depends on what printing technology you'll be using. Most slicers can't use these colours anyway - and subsequently, ignore color information on import.\n\n\nThe ASCII STL format is older than the binary format, so you may find some very old software can only understand the ASCII STL files, but unless you're working with such old software, it's usually better to use the binary format. Smaller files don't just save disk space: they're also faster to process and transfer via e-mail or on servers.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n9839,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jeff H.,2.528907649931287,3.1516766269614735,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,What materials would be appropriate for pool parts (chlorine & UV exposure) using SLA or FDM?,\"I've got a printer on the way later this year that's supposed to be able to do both FDM and SLA (with the appropriate accessories). I'm interested in printing some parts for swimming pools (the types that generally cost fifty cents to make, but with markup and shipping end up costing thirty or more dollars). \n\nI need to find a material that can withstand exposure to chlorine (up to 15ppm for the rare nuclear shock) and UV from the sun, hopefully for several years.\n\nI think that I'd prefer an FDM filament initially in order to test, but understand that FDM processes may require more post-processing in order to keep water from penetrating layers. \n\nWhat are some other considerations that I should be aware of? Having a white color would be preferable, but if it's available in other colors and would be suitable, it might be fun to make some different colored eyeball fittings.\n\",Rosalie W,\"Have you thought about using ASA filament? ASA filament is very strong. ASA filament is similar to ABS filament (if you have ever worked with that). When contrasting it to ABS filament, ASA has a higher resistance against UV and chemical exposure. It will also have no problem with the water. Both ASA and ABS filament print at about the same temperatures. \n\nHere are some links that might be helpful :\n\n\nUV-Resistant ASA Filament: Properties, How to Use, and Best Brands\nWant to Use ABS in Hot Sun? We Compare ABS vs ASA Filaments\n\n\nHope this is helpful. \n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n9845,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,oneself,2.1782824847157594,3.178518415635008,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,What is causing these strings in the overhangs?,\"I am consistently getting these strings in the overhangs on models that folks say they are printing without supports. Can anyone tell me what is causing them and what I can do to fix them?\n\nI've attached a picture mid-way during a BB-8 print. I'm using PLA at 75 % speed.\n\n\n\",Trish,\"You did print overhangs without supports. I have printed a Thermal Detonator for StarWars day (May the 4th be with you!), which is pretty much an empty pair of domes. To ensure that the upper layers stay up, I have activated support starting at 40°, and it came out perfectly fine. Without support, the lines would have had nothing to hang on and sag down like in your print.\n\",0.0,0.0\n9845,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,oneself,2.1782824847157594,3.178518415635008,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,What is causing these strings in the overhangs?,\"I am consistently getting these strings in the overhangs on models that folks say they are printing without supports. Can anyone tell me what is causing them and what I can do to fix them?\n\nI've attached a picture mid-way during a BB-8 print. I'm using PLA at 75 % speed.\n\n\n\",R..,\"While this looks a lot like stringing, it's not what I would call stringing. I usually reserve that term for material that should never have left the nozzle to begin with, due to insufficient or missing retraction or excessive compression of the filament between the extruder and the nozzle. The \"\"strings\"\" you've shown look like desired wall extrusions that did not adhere to the adjacent walls in the same layer or to the previous layer.\n\nThis is common when printing concave perimeters that are overhanging, due to a combination of minimal-to-no contact with previous layer and acceleration of the nozzle away from the previous wall in the current layer. Sometimes under-extrusion can also be a factor.\n\nYou can often mitigate this by:\n\n\nusing thinner layers (for the whole print, or \"\"adaptive layer height\"\" that will dynamically adjust as needed). For a given wall slope (fixed rise over run), this will reduce the \"\"rise\"\", and thereby place the walls of the next layer such that they overlap more with the previous layer. Sometimes this makes the difference as to whether they overlap at all.\nincreasing hotend temperature. This will improve bonding with adjacent wall and with previous layer, if there's any contact with it.\ndecreasing print speed, especially for outer walls. This will reduce the effect of the nozzle pulling the wall away from the adjacent wall it's supposed to bond to, and will also deliver more heat to the adjacent wall and previous layer wall you want to bond to.\n\n\nAll three of these will also help if under-extrusion is part of the underlying cause.\n\nIf you can't get any of this to work, using supports is always an option, but spherical (as opposed to flattened) domes generally \"\"shouldn't\"\" need support to print.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n9847,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,foo bar,0.0,3.2230983134145625,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Good profile for slicing ABS in Slic3r?,\"Does anyone know of a good slicer profile (i.e., an .ini file.) for Slic3r for printing ABS for a Prusa i3 MK3S printer? \n\",0scar,\"ABS is a plastic type that has a relatively large shrinkage when cooling down compared to other filaments;e.g. much more than the popular replacement PETG (which prints similarly as PLA but has properties like ABS).\n\nAs of this shrinkage, it is the operator of the slicer to produce an environment to properly print ABS. This not only implies that correct settings for the slicer itself need to be chosen (depending on the brand: high hotend temperature; about 220-240 °C, high heated bed temperature; 90-110 °C, using a large brim), but also that the printing environment is optimally setup to allow printing successful prints. You should think of adhesion to the build plate, modifying parts to include so-called Mickey Mouse ears and an enclosed printer space to regulate the temperature. ABS doesn't like temperature changes as that will result in split layers. This is why ABS is difficult to print for most people, it is best not to choose this when you just starting printing, nowadays much better alternatives are available called Co-polymers like PETG.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n9853,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kilomonk,2.8153892694839717,2.717179978327238,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Does the X/Y bed orientation of a model affect the print detail quality?,\"My FDM printer bed moves on the Y-axis and the print head moves on the X-axis and raises on the Z-axis. When printing rectangular objects (a model of Notre Dame in this case), are there print detail quality advantages to aligning the model perpendicular to the X or Y axis, or at 45 degrees? Part strength is not an issue and support is not needed.\n\nThanks.\n\",0scar,\"I'm under the impression that your question hints on rectilinear motion by aligning the print part to the axes motion of the printer. So, placing it under 45° would suggest movement of both steppers to make a straight line opposed to one stepper movement for a straight line.\n\nBasically, the weight of the carriage and the play in the system determine the quality of the details. Not how much steppers are involved to print the part. As an example, CoreXY or H-bot style printers use 2 steppers to print a straight line and a single stepper to print diagonally. These printers are capable of producing very accurate prints.\n\nOn a Prusa i3 style printer it is not expected to see large differences unless you print very fast so that the inertia or play take a predominant role in the quality.\n\",0.0,0.0\n9853,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kilomonk,2.8153892694839717,2.717179978327238,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Does the X/Y bed orientation of a model affect the print detail quality?,\"My FDM printer bed moves on the Y-axis and the print head moves on the X-axis and raises on the Z-axis. When printing rectangular objects (a model of Notre Dame in this case), are there print detail quality advantages to aligning the model perpendicular to the X or Y axis, or at 45 degrees? Part strength is not an issue and support is not needed.\n\nThanks.\n\",E Doe,\"In short: Not really.\n\nlonger version: It depends.\n\nThe main culprit of losing details in this case would be the weight and speed of the thing moving. So if you have a heavy X-axis carriage, acceleration and decelerating the carriage won't be instant. Same with the bed (Y-axis).\n\nAnother culprit can be slop in the system, so check your linear bearings and belt tension.\n\nAlso keep in mind that you are printing on the bed, so the weight of the Y-axis increases while the print progresses. This shouldn't be a problem for small prints, but if your print becomes bigger it can decrease the quality. Another factor is that every print will bend a little the higher it gets, so if you print a tall slender object, don't accelerate the bed too fast ;)\n\nTo summarize, for high detailed prints:\n\n\nLower the speed\nCheck the system for slop (tighten belts, and align linear bearings)\nTake the lightest axis for the highest detail (keep the weight of the print in mind)\n\n\nOne thing that you can do to test your machine is to test the ghosting on each axis (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:277394).\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n9854,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,José,2.1782824847157594,2.6908545064521765,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Laser scanning to 3D printer,\"I have one *.xyz file (from a laser scan) that I wanted to mesh and create a 3D printable file.\n\nI saw some YouTube videos from Meshlab and try to follow the steps explained in the video, 3D Laser Scanning - Meshing Point Clouds in Meshlab;\n\nWhen I reached the step: \"\"Remeshing, Simplification and Reconstruction I discovered that \"\"Surface Reconstruction: Poisson\"\" does not appear in my Meshlab (V2016.12).\n\nI search on web to see if I could use another modelating method, but everybody said the «Poisson» method is the \"\"one\"\"!\n\nI have two questions:\n\n\nIt is possible not have the \"\"Surface Reconstruction: Poisson\"\" in the program (there is something I need to pay for use it?);\nNot having the \"\"Surface Reconstruction: Poisson\"\", is there any other possibility to create a surface from a xyz point cloud?\n\n\",Greenonline,\"Same menu, different location in the sub-menu (at the bottom):\n\n\n\nAs T.M. states in their comment, see Poisson mesh reconstruction on StackOverflow:\n\n\n MeshLab 2016 now uses the new version of the Poisson merging, and the\n filter is called:\n \n Screened Poisson Surface Reconstruction\n \n it is in the same submenu, on the bottom. The relevant parameter\n (octree depth) is called Reconstruction Depth. It is now possible to\n merge multiple layers at once, without flattening them beforehand (as\n before). If source layer(s) have color, the result will be colored\n too. If you want to have the same result of the old version, put 0 in\n the \"\"interpolation weight\"\" parameter\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n9859,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,cw louw,2.1782824847157594,2.835469776828434,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,\"After homing all is fine, when printing the Z-axis stops advancing\",\"My Prusa i3 has developed an issue. \n\nIt homes fine and has no issues. But, when I press the print button it gives a sneeze (quick screeching noise from the Z-axis stepper motor) and start to print. The only issue then is that there is no lifting on the layers when it prints! When I kill the print, it stops, lifts and goes to the home position as if nothing is wrong.\n\nVideo link: Prusa I3 Z-axis issue\n\nDoes anyone know of a remedy for this issue?\n\",cw louw,\"Awesome, I got it fixed!\n\nI've restored to default the Firmware EEPROM Settings in the driver program and it's all fine now. I have no idea how that got changed as I would never go mess around there.\n\nI CAN PRINT AGAIN!!\n\nThe program I'm using is Repetier. It has a Firmware configuration setting under the printer settings. The values in there was a bit odd so I took a chance and pressed the Reset to Factory Settings and it worked. There is no version number attached to the setting\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n9867,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Glen Hoffman,0.0,4.626678300681091,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,BLTouch wiring and pin assignments,\"I’m in the process of installing a BLTouch on a Velleman Vertex K8400. The board doesn’t have a dedicated servo pin, so I’ll assign one. No problem there. \n\nThe board only has a Z-min pin, so it’s my understanding that I’m supposed to unplug my Z-min cable and plug the Bltouch into the Z-min port. \n\nMy question is: \"\"Can't I assign another unused pin as a Z-max, plug the BLTouch into that, adjust the firmware, and leave the existing Z-min sensor plugged in?\"\"\n\nEdit.....\nUpon further review, I probably shouldn't have said Z_MAX, and will be more specific.\n\nThis is a Mega 2560 board with 2 available PWM pins. Anything wrong with this setup?\n\nPins.h\n\n#define SERVO_0_PIN 15 //PH3 (PWM)\n\n#define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN 16 //PH4 (PWM)\n\nConfiguration.h\n\n=======Z Probe Option=======\n\n#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP\n\n#define BLTOUCH\n\nI want be able to keep my Z_Min sensor plugged in as a backup to prevent a bed crash just in case the BL touch doesn't trigger. From what I see this should work as long as I make sure the BLTOUCH triggers before the Z_MIN. Any issues that anyone can see?\n\",0scar,\"Note: The question has changed after posting this answer. This answer answered the previous question, but is now out-of-date with respect to how the question has changed; I'll update it later, as it is possible what is asked now.\n\n\n\nYou can change the Z-min and the Z-max pin assignment in Marlin Firmware in the pins_<boardname>.h file, you basically exchange the Z-min and the Z-max. Note that the switch connected to the old Z-min port now becomes a Z-max sensor if you enable that in the firmware; you should therefore remove it (the actual switch) from the minimum Z position.\n\n\n\nTo enable a BLTouch sensor you require 2 pins free on the microprocessor. One registers the signal of the trigger, the other triggers the servo to stow/deploy the sensor.\n\nYou can connect the white/black to the Z-min signal (Z-min pin) and ground of the Z-min connector (or if pins are swapped in the firmware to the Z-max). The other wires need to be connected to +5 V (red), ground (brown) and orange/yellow to a free analog pin (PWM pin):\n\n\n BLTouch can be operated in the following condition.\n - One I/O for control (PWM or Software PWM)\n - One I/O for Zmin (Z Probe)\n - GND and +5 V power\n\n\nThe PWM pin should be defined in your pins_<boardname>.h file, e.g.:\n\n#define SERVO0_PIN 5 // RUMBA board\n\n\nor\n\n#define SERVO0_PIN 27 // ANET board\n\n\nThe Z-max signal pin is no PWM pin for the servo.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n9867,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Glen Hoffman,0.0,4.626678300681091,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,BLTouch wiring and pin assignments,\"I’m in the process of installing a BLTouch on a Velleman Vertex K8400. The board doesn’t have a dedicated servo pin, so I’ll assign one. No problem there. \n\nThe board only has a Z-min pin, so it’s my understanding that I’m supposed to unplug my Z-min cable and plug the Bltouch into the Z-min port. \n\nMy question is: \"\"Can't I assign another unused pin as a Z-max, plug the BLTouch into that, adjust the firmware, and leave the existing Z-min sensor plugged in?\"\"\n\nEdit.....\nUpon further review, I probably shouldn't have said Z_MAX, and will be more specific.\n\nThis is a Mega 2560 board with 2 available PWM pins. Anything wrong with this setup?\n\nPins.h\n\n#define SERVO_0_PIN 15 //PH3 (PWM)\n\n#define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN 16 //PH4 (PWM)\n\nConfiguration.h\n\n=======Z Probe Option=======\n\n#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP\n\n#define BLTOUCH\n\nI want be able to keep my Z_Min sensor plugged in as a backup to prevent a bed crash just in case the BL touch doesn't trigger. From what I see this should work as long as I make sure the BLTOUCH triggers before the Z_MIN. Any issues that anyone can see?\n\",Glen Hoffman,\"After studying the Marlin code, I found the answer I was looking for. If I have a spare PWM pin, I can assign it to anything I want. So the best solution is to define the pin as a Z_MIN_PROBE and then in Configuration.h in the Bltouch settings #define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP rather than #define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_USES.\n\",0.0,0.0\n9876,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ricky Verret,2.1782824847157594,2.3045027946466967,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Printer LCD controller required when using a Raspberry Pi + LCD?,\"When using a Raspberry Pi and an LCD to run the printer, can the LCD controller that comes on the printer be removed or does it need to be used also?\n\",0scar,\"No, when you run the print jobs from a Raspberry Pi, e.g. using the OctoPrint print server, you do not need the display of the printer as you can control the printer from the Pi screen or from a browser of any other device. Do note that not all functionality of the LCD controller is built-in in those printer servers, but you normally have a terminal to interface using G-code with the printer, or you can make macros to do that.\n\nIn some cases it might be handy to leave it on the printer for small adjustments, homing an axis, or feeding some filament; it saves you some time opening a browser to control the printer when you operate the printer remotely and allows to troubleshoot the machine manually.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n9878,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Riz-waan,2.8153892694839717,4.490224283436976,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.548335113978322,3.9829738809469584,Why do 3D printers have only one limit switch?,\"I have seen that many 3D printers have only one limit switch for each axis, how does it know where to stop on the other end?\n\nMy first guess is that the machine knows how big the plate is, and calculates it accordingly.\n\nIf this is true, then if I were to use a RAMPS, I would have to modify the software to figure out the build plate, it won't have the hardware to autocalculate.\n\",0scar,\"In principle you only need the minimum axis position (or the maximum), the offset to the bed and the size of the bed in the direction of the axes. Fortunately, you can specify this in the firmware:\n\nE.g. in Marlin Firmware offsets are defined as travel limits:\n\n\n// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.\n#define X_MIN_POS -33\n#define Y_MIN_POS -10\n#define Z_MIN_POS 0\n#define Z_MAX_POS 240\n\n\nBed size:\n\n\n// The size of the print bed\n#define X_BED_SIZE 200\n#define Y_BED_SIZE 200\n\n\nDo note that some printers do have maximum endstops on top of minimum endstops. This is handy in case of layer shifting (e.g. caused by the nozzle catching the print as such that the belt skips notches and as such redefining the reference frame) to prevent the carriage from destroying the printer at the maximum of the axis.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n9885,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Viesturs,1.726248027126092,2.589815693999396,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,What is acceptable voltage drop from PSU to controller?,\"My voltage at the controller at max load is ~11.4 V \n(heated bed + motors + hotend). Is this normal? \n\nI'm measuring 11.8 V at the PSU, so 0.4 V -> 5 W lost in the wires.\n\nI have a pretty beefy ~2 mm diameter copper wire that's ~1 m long. Its area is 2.5 mm2. The diameter with shielding is 3.5 mm.\n\nCould there be a bad connection somewhere?\n\nChecked the wire is warm to touch, so looks like it's actually the cause.\nIs this normal? Should I go for even bigger wires?\n\",cmm,\"Regardless of how the voltage is lowered, you aren't delivering the power to the heating elements that they are designed to deliver. For a resistive heater, the power scales with the square of the voltage.\n\nDelivering 11.4 V to the heaters will result in the power being $11.4^2/12.0^2 = 0.9025$ or 90 % of the intended power.\n\nThere are two things you could do to increase the power at the heaters.\n\n\nYour voltage is starting out low, which you may be able to increase\nat the power supply to 12.0 V.\nThe voltage drop in the 1-meter cables can be reduced by using\nshorter cables or larger cross-sectional area conductors. 13 gauge\nis not a very heavy wire for low-voltage high-current DC. I would\nsuggest 10 gauge, and would prefer 8 gauge.\n\n\nThe logic in the controller board should be fine as you are now. Controller boards include regulators that being the nominal 12 V down to the 5 V or 3.3 V required by the digital logic. These will automatically adjust for changes in the 12 V supply.\n\nTo actually answer your question, the permitted voltage drop is application dependent. As a rule, though, I would suggest that the voltage on the pins of the controller should be 12 ± 5 %, or from 12.6 V to 11.4 V. The voltage you measured should be acceptable if it is the true minimum voltage.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n9885,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Viesturs,1.726248027126092,2.589815693999396,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,What is acceptable voltage drop from PSU to controller?,\"My voltage at the controller at max load is ~11.4 V \n(heated bed + motors + hotend). Is this normal? \n\nI'm measuring 11.8 V at the PSU, so 0.4 V -> 5 W lost in the wires.\n\nI have a pretty beefy ~2 mm diameter copper wire that's ~1 m long. Its area is 2.5 mm2. The diameter with shielding is 3.5 mm.\n\nCould there be a bad connection somewhere?\n\nChecked the wire is warm to touch, so looks like it's actually the cause.\nIs this normal? Should I go for even bigger wires?\n\",Viesturs,\"Per this website it matches the expectations.\nUsing 13AWG =~ 2.5 mm^2, 18amps, 12volts, 6feet = 2meters (1m back and forth).\n\nResults in 0.4v drop.\n\",0.0,0.0\n9889,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,psteiner,1.726248027126092,3.2230983134145625,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,0.0,Anyone tried Varathane water-based Wood Stain on Hatchbox Wood PLA?,\"I printed parts for a Harry Potter wand with HatchBox Wood PLA, now I want to apply stain. I intended to try MinWax PolyShades wood stain, then noticed Varathane water-based wood stain is available at my local Rona hardware store. This seems a \"\"healthier\"\" option, maybe not as fussy to apply as PolyShades, anyone had experience with this product?\n\",R..,\"Wood stains (as opposed to dyes, paints, etc.) work by having large particles that become lodged in the grain of the wood, yielding a result that varies in intensity with the grain of the wood and thereby brings out its beauty. It's unlikely that they will do what you want, or anything reasonable, on PLA that has wood particles mixed into it. You might be able to find some types of dyes that will work. I've used wood dyes on woods that don't take stain well and have had good results, and if the PLA+wood material consists of a significant amount of wood, it seems plausible that wood dyes might work well on it.\n\",-1.6066831703607938,0.0\n9889,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,psteiner,1.726248027126092,3.2230983134145625,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,0.0,Anyone tried Varathane water-based Wood Stain on Hatchbox Wood PLA?,\"I printed parts for a Harry Potter wand with HatchBox Wood PLA, now I want to apply stain. I intended to try MinWax PolyShades wood stain, then noticed Varathane water-based wood stain is available at my local Rona hardware store. This seems a \"\"healthier\"\" option, maybe not as fussy to apply as PolyShades, anyone had experience with this product?\n\",psteiner,\"I ended up using Saman brand water-based wood stain, also from Rona hardware (a brand of Lowe's Canada). The selection of colours for Saman stains was greater than the Varathane stains. \n\nI applied a single coat of colour #117 \"\"Chamois\"\" to the stem portion of the wand, and two coats of colour #120 \"\"Dark Walnut\"\" to the handle. I did not apply a varnish or sealer. The results seem acceptable, given that I Am Not A Carpenter, and this is my first go at printing and finishing wood PLA! Overall, I'm quite happy with the result. I left the PLA mostly unsanded to take advantage of the layers' wood-grain appearance.\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n9891,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,varun waikar,1.0891412423578797,2.887737754437414,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How to start cycle by using push button,\"Can any one help me out that how to start a cycle by just using a push button.\n\nNote: Using Marlin firmware, Arduino Mega, Ramps 1.4\n\nI haven't tried altering the Marlin code (as I am new to coding), I was just thinking of adopting this feature as it will be very easy for CNC DIY maker using Marlin code to run a cycle in a loop.\n\",Greenonline,\"Unless you know the structure of the Marlin firmware pretty well, are good at coding (in C/C++), and are familiar with programming microcontrollers, then I wouldn't attempt to do this, IMHO. Adding new features can cause a number of issues elsewhere in the code and need rigourous planning and testing as well as discussion with the Marlin community.\n\nYou could however make a request (i.e. raise an issue) to the Marlin community on Github, however, I would seriously suggest posting to the Marlin forum, on RepRap, first, as random suggestions and issues raised on Github aren't really appreciated, without checking on the forum first...\n\nIf you really want to get into coding, then I would suggest buying an Arduino Uno and some components and messing about with those first, as well as visiting our excellent Arduino Q&A site on StackExchange as well as the Arduino forums.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n9891,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,varun waikar,1.0891412423578797,2.887737754437414,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How to start cycle by using push button,\"Can any one help me out that how to start a cycle by just using a push button.\n\nNote: Using Marlin firmware, Arduino Mega, Ramps 1.4\n\nI haven't tried altering the Marlin code (as I am new to coding), I was just thinking of adopting this feature as it will be very easy for CNC DIY maker using Marlin code to run a cycle in a loop.\n\",user77232,\"Don't go modifying Marlin to do this unless you're using a 32 bit µC.\n\nYou're better off controlling Marlin with OctoPrint and writing/finding a module that allows you to kick off a print when a key is pressed on a connected keyboard or pendant.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n9898,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nmaster88,0.0,3.3468467879848673,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How to effectively eliminate stringing in 3D print,\"I'm having this stringing problem that happens when the machine moves and when it's not supposed to print that I still haven't effectively solved. I will try exemplify with the following image. \n\n\n\nWe can see it leaves some prints when it's not supposed to. \n\nI know we can try to solve it with the retraction properties, but is there a way to calculate the right levels of it?\n\nHow do you guys do it?\n\nMy setup is:\n\n\nEnder3 printer\nUltimaker Cura sw\nBQ filament\n\n\nInfo about this particular filament, from store.bq.com\n\nDIMENSIONS AND WEIGHT\n\n\nWeight - 1 kg\nFilament diameter - 1.75 mm\nCoil size (diameter x width) - 175 x 77 mm\nSpool axle diameter - 44 mm\nEnclosure - 187 x 187 x 83 mm\n\n\nMATERIAL\n\n\nComposition - 100% PLA (Polylactic acid).\n\n\nPRINTING FEATURES\n\n\nOptimum printing temperature - 205 ºC\nPrinting temperature range - 200-220 ºC\n\n\",R..,\"Note: The image in the question was changed after the question was asked. This answer is out-of-date with respect to how the question has changed; I'll update it when more information is available.\n\n\n\nThese don't look like strings, which I'd define as material deposited outside of the model, but rather damage done by moving the hotend through already-printed material without retracting. In Cura, this is called \"\"retraction combing\"\", and it defaults to \"\"all\"\", which is way too aggressive and visibly harms the surface finish. Switching it to \"\"noskin\"\" or even \"\"infill\"\" only will make this go away and greatly improve your print quality, at the cost of some speed. The cost can be severe in worst case with certain kinds of fine detail, but usually \"\"noskin\"\" is cheap and suffices.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10622,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nmaster88,2.1782824847157594,2.846247604045449,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.6229190288168605,Is there a way to configure printer extruder to go all way up when printing finishes in Ender 3?,\"With Ender 3 is there a way to configure printer extruder to go all way up when the printing finishes?\n\nOr even with the Ultimaker Cura software?\n\nI want this, because i'm going to put a switch on the top of the printer that will switch it off when the printer finishes (if i can make the arm with the extruder go all the way up when printing finishes.)\n\nHow can this be done?\n\",Trish,\"In Ultimaker Cura (and pretty much any slicer), you can easily modify the end code of the Ender 3. To go all the way up, you could add the following in the end:\n\nG90 ;absolute positioning\nG1 Z300 ;goto height 300 ; Move to 300 mm = 30 cm.\nG91 ;back to relative positioning\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10622,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nmaster88,2.1782824847157594,2.846247604045449,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.6229190288168605,Is there a way to configure printer extruder to go all way up when printing finishes in Ender 3?,\"With Ender 3 is there a way to configure printer extruder to go all way up when the printing finishes?\n\nOr even with the Ultimaker Cura software?\n\nI want this, because i'm going to put a switch on the top of the printer that will switch it off when the printer finishes (if i can make the arm with the extruder go all the way up when printing finishes.)\n\nHow can this be done?\n\",user77232,\"If you use OctoPrint, there is a plugin that will allow you to take action on certain events, such as print completion. The action that it can take would allow you to turn of a TP-link smart plug; which would turn off the printer. You could then use the phone app to turn it back on.\n\",0.0,0.0\n11400,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nmaster88,2.1782824847157594,2.541486592782186,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,How to correctly clean the Lacquer from bed?,\"How can I correctly clean the lacquer from bed printer?\n\nI have used some ethylic alcohol (ethanol) to help cleaning\n\nBut what is the best way to do it?\n\n\n\",Trish,\"The Ender 3 does not come with a lacquered surface at all.The bed should have a rough build surface that is a clone of the BuildTak build surface. It is intended to be rough and satin-gloss in its native state. I do not remember if there was a thin protective plastic foil on my Ender-3 bed on delivery, but if there was, it should have been removed during assembly.\n\nA BuildTak surface can be easily cleaned with isopropyl or ethyl alcohol of grease and fingerprints. The odd discoloration at the edges seems to be a layer of grease and dust, which can be easily cleaned away by soaking it in Isopropyl alcohol and then wiped with a microfiber cloth.\n\nIf the bed surface is destroyed by chipping holes into it, sanding it or otherwise ruining it (like melting plastic rap into it), you will need to replace it. Replacement surfaces come about 5 bucks on Amazon. Doing this, you might find How to clean up my buildpate for a new build surface? helpful.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11400,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nmaster88,2.1782824847157594,2.541486592782186,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,How to correctly clean the Lacquer from bed?,\"How can I correctly clean the lacquer from bed printer?\n\nI have used some ethylic alcohol (ethanol) to help cleaning\n\nBut what is the best way to do it?\n\n\n\",0scar,\"The \"\"lacquer\"\" you are referring to is assumed to be the discoloured parts of the heat bed, not the original surface layer of the heat bed. The discoloured parts of the heatbed are most probably caused by residue build-up.\n\nIf this residue build-up is caused by depositing a print adhesive containing PolyVinylPyrrolidone (glue stick ingredient) or PolyVinylAcetate (hairspray or 3D print spray ingredient), you can simply wash is of with water using a wet hand-warm towel or a sponge. Both constituents are dissolvable in water.\n\nI do this frequently on non-removable aluminium heat beds (using moist kitchen towel) or removable glass bed (rinse off in the sink).\n\",0.0,0.0\n9899,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mattgilbertnet,3.452496054252184,3.367126134927355,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Where did Marlin get its name?,\"Does anyone know how the developers of Marlin decided to name it that?\n\",Lars Pötter,\"As far as I know Erik van der Zalm started Marlin. He is from the Netherlands and Zalm translates to \"\"salmon\"\". One of the design goals of Marlin was to make it faster than the other firmware available at that time. And a marlin is a very fast swimming fish.\n\nSome firmwares developed after Marlin also joined this fish theme: Sailfish, Minnow, ...\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n9899,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mattgilbertnet,3.452496054252184,3.367126134927355,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Where did Marlin get its name?,\"Does anyone know how the developers of Marlin decided to name it that?\n\",Greenonline,\"Yes, it probably is totally off-topic, but fun too, so I'll try to get an answer in, before the question gets closed.\n\nThe best place to ask would be the Firmware - Marlin forum, on RepRap.org.\n\nThe question is there now, Why was it named Marlin? and I'll update this answer, if/when I get a response...\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n9902,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,duhanebel,1.0891412423578797,3.137850340878127,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Strange banding on first layer/skin,\"I've been printing for a while with a Creality CR-10S with Colorfabb black PETG economy and all was good.\nUntil today, where on a large, flat print (30x10cm - a small drawer) I can't manage to get a smooth first (or second) layer no matter how hard I try.\nI tried so far:\n\n\ncalibrating the extruder\nsetting different temperatures (range 230-240 suggested by the manufacture is 235-250)\nslowing down the print (I usually print skin at 80mm/s, I tried this one down to 40mm/s)\ninstalling a brand new nozzle\nlevelling the bed\n\n\nThe print starts fine but then, randomly, some bands that look like under extrusion appear:\n\n\nHere's a second example of the first layer - I've ripped it off the plate but as you can see the first 50% of it was fine. The problem appeared later in the process.\n\n\nThe extruder \"\"clicks\"\", the filament stalls and it's clear that the nozzle is not extruding plastic fast enough.\nWhat can it be?\n\nAll other prints are fine, but I have to say this is the only one that has such a large horizontal surface.\n\",darth pixel,\"i'd say your extruder driver and/or motor is overheated - really \n\naccording to your description - when you've printed other things it was fine but this is the first with such big \"\"flat\"\" area\n\nusually extruder motor works for some time then stops and starts and so on and again so it has some time when driver cools down but here it runs constantly for relatively long time\n\nthis overheats the driver and/or motor then is starts to clicks as there is not enough current delivered to the motor\n\nwhat can you do?\n\n\ntry to take the cover off\ncheck the driver temperature (use electronic thermometer as it can be even 100C)\ntry to cool it with some kind of fan while running the same printout\n\n\nif the diagnosis is fine - you are at home and now you know what to do ;)\n\n\n\nthe one described as E is the one to check and cool down\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n9904,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dmitry Druganov,2.528907649931287,3.298894097750058,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,Stuck filament in the extruder of Infitary M508,\"Model: Infitary M508\n\nDetails: The filament is stuck in the extruder preheated for PLA (the filament is PLA 1.75 white). The extruder's motor works and the filament is in the hole of the extruder (not somewhere else). I took the fan covering the motor apart, to show what is inside, so you might see it on the attached image:\n\n\n\nYou might also see this video for details: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8rYGhuYWvc\n\nI'm able to pull the filament out, when I uncouple the motor's gear, but it doesn't go through the extruder when I push it in.\n\nWhat can I do to fix this? Thanks!\n\nP.S. It's the first start of the printer.\n\",ianmcmill,\"The hot end can clog in two places.\n\n\nHeat distortion can cause the filament above the nozzle, at the level of the cooling fins, to melt, expand and prevent further passage.\nThe nozzle itself may be clogged by impurities.\n\n\nThere are two methods available, depending on the type of clogging.\n\n\nIf the hot end is blocked at the level of the cooling fins, a so-called \"\"Atomic Pull\"\" helps. This is also a convenient method of changing filaments. The hot end is heated to approx. 90°C and the filament is pulled out of the hot end with a bold jerk. The filament does not melt completely and remains tough. Thus the complete plastic is pulled out of the hot end.\nIf the nozzle is clogged, an \"\"Atomic Pull\"\" only helps to a limited extent.\nTo clean a nozzle, the hot end should be removed from the holder and the heating block unscrewed. You need a gas burner. With the gas burner the brass nozzle is heated until the plastic is completely carbonized. Wait until it has cooled down and reassemble the hotend.\n\n\nPost-cleaning advice:\nBe sure that the hotend is cooled enough that no heat can creep up the hotend and melt the plastic before it enters the heat block. Without sufficient cooling clogging pre-nozzle is very likely.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n9904,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Dmitry Druganov,2.528907649931287,3.298894097750058,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,Stuck filament in the extruder of Infitary M508,\"Model: Infitary M508\n\nDetails: The filament is stuck in the extruder preheated for PLA (the filament is PLA 1.75 white). The extruder's motor works and the filament is in the hole of the extruder (not somewhere else). I took the fan covering the motor apart, to show what is inside, so you might see it on the attached image:\n\n\n\nYou might also see this video for details: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8rYGhuYWvc\n\nI'm able to pull the filament out, when I uncouple the motor's gear, but it doesn't go through the extruder when I push it in.\n\nWhat can I do to fix this? Thanks!\n\nP.S. It's the first start of the printer.\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"Unfortunately you're going to have to tear the extruder head apart and clean the nozzle. There are kits like the following (found on Amazon - No affiliation):\n\n\n\nThis will give you everything you need to clear the nozzle. The only other solution is to replace the nozzle and extruder tube. The filament is stuck in either or both of these parts. \n\n(As an aside ... a wise person < cough > @0scar < cough > once told me I should keep extras of these parts, as well as the thermister and heating elements on hand. Treat them as disposable parts ... once they're dead, just replace them.)\n\nWhat you need to figure out though, is why it clogged in the first place. More than likely you tried to extrude filament before the nozzle was up to temperature. If your readout said it was good, then you need to get a no-touch thermometer and check the nozzle for the proper temperature prior to printing to ensure it's all good.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n9914,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Donald Duck,1.0891412423578797,2.729972460763979,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,3d printer set up,\"I am not very used to 3D printers and I just bought my first 3D printer today (Creality3D Ender 3). But I am unable to assemble it. The 3D printer doesn't contain instruction on how to built it which I found very weird. I searched a couple of things on the Internet and I found this website, but after some steps I couldn't read it , I didn't understand what I was reading.\n\",Trish,\"The website you looked at is for an entirely different printer and in general.\n\nYour instructions are in a PDF file on the mini-SD card that came with the printer. The official Ender 3 support site is https://creality3d.cn/download/produktdatei_c0002 and it also contains the Official Assembly Instructions (to me, the lower right corner). An alternate setup instruction is in a PDF distributed by Sain Smart.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n9918,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,uhoh,3.9045305118418514,4.52971857973457,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.929104701733314,4.410384278773418,How does this Martian habitat 3D printer built for NASA work?,\"The ArchDaily article AI SpaceFactory Wins NASA's 3D-Printed Mars Habitat Challenge shows a working 3D printing apparatus using an unusual material containing \n\n\n basalt fiber extracted from Marian rock (simulant) and renewable plant-based bioplastic.\n\n\nThe photo below shows part of the printer. Is this printer just leaving a slurry to dry, or does the mixture somehow catalyze or harden spontaneously? I'm also wondering what the (looks like) twelve black hoses are around the central nozzle.\n\n \n\n\n\n\n\",Trish,\"Let's start with the general design look and feel: This printer contains a robotic arm with a toolhead, pretty similar to a welding robot, and probably is controlled with a similar CAM software.\n\n Picture by Robotics.org\n\nTool head\n\nThe really interesting part here is the tool head. So let's look at it and try to reverse engineer the use of some parts by how they are placed and what one can see about them, together with the information given by OP.\n\nBlack pipes\n\nThere's a bundle of 12 black pipes that go from the main body to the print head, ending at the side of some distance disk. To me, these look suspiciously like a system to deliver an airstream, so most likely some sort of cooling system. This is further supported by the huge fans at the base of the machine, pumping air into the flexible pipe.\n\nSilver Tank\n\nThe first picture shows a silver tank with the label V7 (version 7?) or VT (as in Virginia Tech) or something similar on it. This is connected via a grey hose to the base of the printer. The mounting of it over the extruder hints, that this is a hopper, most likely holding the print material in pelletized or powder form, and that it is fed via the grey hose. From the information given in the question, it might be some sort of PLA (synthesized from cornstarch) or other bioplastic using the Martian dust as a filler material. From here, the print material falls into the central column...\n\nCentral Column\n\n...which goes down through the distance disk into the thick nozzle, so it must be the extruder and heater combo. At its top, there is a large stepper motor in Z orientation, which hints that inside of the matte grey tube is an arbor, pressing down the melting pellets past a heating element into the nozzle below.\n\nPrint material and further information\n\nThe last picture shows proudly \"\"Autodesk\"\" on the side of the printer. Autodesk has an own article about printing in space from August 2018, where Nathan Golino of the NASA owned GMRO states this:\n\n\n Abrasion has been an issue with the 3D printer we use. It’s very rough on the feed screw and the barrel and nozzle as the material is extruded through the system.\n\n\nThis confirms the general makeup akin to a pellet-style extruder.\n\n\n Combining a small amount of waste plastic with crushed rock known as regolith can form an additive construction material that’s stronger than concrete. (on a picture caption)\n \n The material we’ve been using in our additive-construction experiments is regolith mixed with waste polymers. You can get polymers in the form of astronaut trash and shipping containers, or you can synthesize polymers. You can use that as a binder for regolith, with a relatively low ratio of polymer to regolith, to make a construction material pretty similar to Portland cement in compression and 20 times stronger in tensile strength.\n\n\n\"\"Waste polymer\"\" could be anything from ABS to PETG, from ASA over PC to PLA, but it seems that the plastic-to-regolith mix is on the high regolith side. It seems that it behaves more like a plastic than concrete, hardening/solidifying from a molten paste to its hard concrete as it cools.\n\nAs an interesting extra tidbit: Golino also states, that the mars-printers are at the moment on level 2 to 3, where 0 is \"\"general concept\"\" and 9 \"\"ready to fly\"\", so in early development.\n\nFurther reading into the background of the project - a design competition in 2015 - hinted, that the software for the arm might even be Autodesk PowerMill.\n\nLooking back at the question if that is V7 or VT on the printer's hopper, an article with the same dome printed in OP's question popped up: Virginia Tech had been part of the crews that were taken to the finals of the aforementioned design competition and was part of the finals. They worked with the AI Space Factory team, which came out winning. In a related article, the printer OP showed us can be seen from a different angle and stripped of the cooling pipes and with a different, longer extruder. It tells us a little more about the work distribution of the teams and participants:\n\n\n Large format vessel printed by AI SpaceFactory in the Autodesk BUILD Space for the construction phase of the competition. The tooling was developed in collaboration with Virginia Tech and Autodesk.\n\n\nThe main company behind it, AI SpaceFactory, showed a different version - the one without cooling pipes - in motion on a YouTube video on April 10th 2019 and the performance of the air-cooled version during the competition finals on May 3rd 2019 (warning, 10 hours of 3D printing galore!) At 9:52:12 we also start to learn what that disk is in picture 1: It is the endcap of the structure which sadly fell through the hole due to navigation issues. \n\nIn the following shorter and commented video, we see that the printer also contains some sort of gripper to place the window frames and skylight just as well as the load bearing test performed after the print. Apparently, the material they use is engineered to a point where it can be reused after regrinding it to dust again.\n\",3.367452517504837,0.0\n9927,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Blade,1.0891412423578797,2.471232360051317,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,precise transformation using meshmixer,\"I am trying to do some edits on an STL file. I am trying to use meshmixer for this. I am essentially trying to move a hole in the following picture \n\nand widen the hole on the bottom of the part. I was playing around with meshmixer and it seems that it can do this by sculpting rather than precise measures. I would appreciate comments if my observation is correct and if so, what other STL editor would you suggest to do these edits. Thanks!\n\",fred_dot_u,\"It's possible to close over a hole using Meshmixer. I've done exactly that recently, although the \"\"hole\"\" was a depression, the process would be the same. As you've discovered, Meshmixer can be considered somewhat imprecise.\n\nFusion 360 will import the model you wish to modify. You would then turn off edit history, convert the model to BREP, then perform the edits you require.\n\nOnce you are satisfied with the results, it's an easy matter to export the model as an STL file.\n\nI've summarized the steps, which are almost as easy as my description. You'd have to combine Google-Fu with the summary for the detailed portions, but it's something I've done in the past. \n\nFusion 360 is free for hobbyists, renewable each year. There are many YouTube tutorials and text-referenced solutions for the steps required to accomplish your edit.\n\nSome will consider Blender to be an alternative method and I agree that it's a viable option, but it's not quite as intuitive as Fusion 360 and was more challenging for me to embrace.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n9932,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Steve Mucci,2.528907649931287,2.704143814960767,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Is iron oxide a suitable material for use in SLS/SLM 3d printing?,\"I recently asked a question in the space section of stackexchange as to if Martian soil, with its decent iron oxide content, could be mined (with magnets) for its iron oxide and the iron oxide used as building material for an SLS/SLM 3d printer.\n\nIs this possible? The final result doesn't have to be pure iron, I'm just looking to see if iron oxide is a suitable building material for a SLS/SLM 3d printer.\n\",Trish,\"First of all, let's start with the basics:\n\nIron oxide aka rust\n\nThe University of Illinois hosts a \"\"Ask the Van\"\", where the question \"\"is rust magnetic\"\" has been asked, and I will quote from Tom J. and Mike W.:\n\n\n There are several different oxides of iron, with different fractions of oxygen. They are Fe0, Fe2O3, and Fe3O4. Rust consists mostly of Fe2O3, with additional water molecules attached. There are several forms of Fe2O3, and a common mineral composed of Fe2O3 is called hematite, which is a shiny-blackish mineral. Hematite is not ferromagnetic, but it does still respond to a magnetic field and will be attracted to the poles of a permanent magnet.[...] FeO is also not ferromagnetic, but it is pulled about twice as much as Fe2O3 towards the poles of a magnet. Magnetite, Fe3O4, is ferromagnetic, and is about 1/4 as strong as pure iron.\n\n\nIn a followup answer by Mike W., it gets more explicit:\n\n\n Rust (a collection of some iron oxides) is virtually non-magnetic, unlike plain iron or most types of steel. \n\n\nThis means pretty much, that unlike pure iron, you can't pick up (most) rust particles with a magnet. From all that we know about the Martian soil, we know for sure that it has a very fine grain, so the particles in itself are tiny. This again hints that any exposed iron on Mars has been thoroughly rusted through over the last million years, leaving only non-magnetic rust dust on the surface - dust that is not suitable to be mined with magnets.\n\nWe have an analysis of the chemical composition of Mars from some landers, hinting that Martian regolith indeed is colored from its high content of iron in various bonds. So, what we do with that data? We create Maritan regolith simulant, which has been checked back against the findings of the probes. And low and behold: there is not a single percentile of iron in either the findings or the probes or the regolith simulants. Just about 16-18 % rust.\n\nRegolith for SLS?\n\nNow, we have regolith with a somewhat even distribution of rust in it. And we have a stimulant that can be acquired from Huston. To my knowledge, it has not yet been tested for SLM, but it has been used in powder based extruders, as explored in How does this Martian habitat 3D printer built for NASA work?\n\nWith the lack of testing and the relatively low iron oxide content, I am hesitant to say that it will work to print in the usual way. However, with the addition of some polymer, one could create a fast regolith-plastic compound that shows similar behavior to concrete. This material could be made suitable for 3D printing in SLS machines. Another idea might be to go from SLM (selective laser melting) to the older SLS (selective laser sintering) or even simple sintering, in which a compound is pretty much \"\"baked\"\" into shape without fully melting it. We understand well how to sinter materials we have trouble with melting otherwise, and one of the prime examples is tungsten carbide. \n\nConclusion\n\nWhile I see problems with mining iron from Martian regolith without a chemical refining process or refining it akin to iron sand, I don't see how martian regolith can't be refined into a suitable SLM or SLS material by addition of some kind of polymer or a thermal and mechanical process to achieve sinterable material. Instead of a polymer, a pure metal (magnesium or aluminium) could be added as a binder too. With the availability of regolith simulant for research, it only takes a research group that is interested in researching the suitability of this material for such applications.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n9975,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Steve Mucci,2.1782824847157594,3.0484567768387603,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Could you use ultrasonic vibrations instead of a roller with an SLS/SLM printer?,\"I've been thinking, SLS/SLM printers currently use a roller to spread 3d printing substrate, but wouldn't ultrasonic vibrations spread the substrate more cleanly, accurately, and with greater density than a roller?\n\",Trish,\"No\n\nThe problem is twofold. Resonance and Granular convection\n\nResonance\n\nLet's start with an empty box. We toss in some powder to create the first layer and use an ultrasonic to create a first layer. What happens? The bed starts to resonate depending on the sound you send into it in patterns - and the powder starts to form valleys and ridges along them as one can see in this video.\n\nGranular Convection\n\nWhat happens if one shakes a box of fine granulate that contains larger items? Granular convection happens! All items raise simultaneously and the small items start to fall first, resulting in them getting under the larger ones, so as a result end up pushing the large items up.\n\nBecause of both effects, there won't be an even layer and it would raise the items printed, even if we managed to get good layers.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n9947,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user1282931,2.1782824847157594,3.2764534681924653,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Heater cartridge with 7.2 ohms - 12 or 24 V?,\"I have a heater cartridge here that measures 7.2 Ω.\n\n\nAt 12 V that would amount to 20 W\nAt 24 V that would amount to 80 W\n\n\nThe cartridge itself is 2 cm long\n\nCould it handle both voltages or is this clearly an under-powered 12 V cartridge?\n\",Trish,\"e3D Heater Cartridges are documented to be around 4.8 Ω for 12 V & 30 W, 3.6 Ω for 12 V & 40 W, 19.2 Ω for 24 V 30 W and 14.4 Ω for 24 V 40 W.\n\n7.2 Ω is a value quite far away from these values - about double of what the 12 V versions are listed and about a third/half of a 24 V heater cartridge. So it is not a cartridge that is similar to those. I have contacted e3D about updating the specs of their High Precision Heater Cartridges to include the nominal resistances to get more references, but that information is pending. \n\nHowever, we don't need that. A variant of Ohm's law can help us estimate what this cartridge could be: Power is the square of Voltage (U) divided by Resistance.\n\n$P=\\frac {U^2} R = \\frac {144\\ \\text V^2}{7.2\\ \\Omega} = 20\\ \\text W$\n\n$P=\\frac {U^2} R = \\frac {576\\ \\text V^2}{7.2\\ \\Omega} = 80\\ \\text W$\n\nMounted in a 12 V Machine this should act work at 20 W, in a 24 V it would work at 80 W. It does not say, however, if it is designed to get powered with 12 V or 24 V. It doesn't help, that both types exist: I was able to find 12 V 20 W heater cartridges just as well as 24 V 80 W heater cartridges. If it is an underpowered 20 W one and mounted in a 24 V machine, you risk burning it though, but not the other way round.\n\nTo differentiate what exactly you have, a photo of the heater cartridge would be needed - it should bear at least a marking of what it's nominal wattage or voltage is.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10026,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user1282931,0.0,3.032353024813671,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Three-phase stepper motors?,\"Can I use three-phase stepper motors with pololu style stepper drivers? If not, what kind of drivers support three-phase motors?\n\",cmm,\"Three phase stepper motors are superior in several ways: see this advertising literature. Unfortunately for using this with simple stepper drivers, they have an extra coil of wire that simple drivers have no way to control. Two phase motors have two isolated coils, while three phase motors have three coils connected in a star configuration.\n\nTexas Instruments offers this design suggestion for using three-phase motors: TI White Paper. Ultimately, it is driven by three synchronized PWM signals connected to three H-bridges, each driving one of the three motor wires. One could build a board with a micro-controller that accepted step and direction pulses and output the three-phase drive. At that level, you could substitute the micro-control-plus-H-bridge board for the Pololu-style driver in an existing 3D printer framework. You would need to configure the steps-per-mm correctly for the new drive system. \n\nIf you did this, and the sales literature is correct, you should get quieter operation with higher torque. How that would affect operation would depend on the torque of the motor, the rotating mass of the motor, and the gearing or belt drive you use. \n\nLike two-phase motors, high torque at high speed requires driving the motor with a voltage much higher than the \"\"specified\"\" steady-state motor voltage.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10026,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user1282931,0.0,3.032353024813671,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Three-phase stepper motors?,\"Can I use three-phase stepper motors with pololu style stepper drivers? If not, what kind of drivers support three-phase motors?\n\",Mick,\"3D printers typically use bipolar two-phase stepper motors, and it is possible that Pololu-style carriers for stepper-motor drivers only support such motors.\n\nCertainly, drivers for three-phase stepper motors exist, for example, the Trinamic TMC5062, but I cannot find any Pololu-style carriers for this chip. Even if a Pololu-style carrier can be sourced, it is not certain that existing 3D-printer firmware can be configured to control it.\n\nIf you are thinking about re-purposing some three-phase motors, I would advise that you purchase standard bipolar motors, instead. Bipolar two-phase motors suitable for 3D printing are not that expensive.\n\nTrinamic TMC5062\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10138,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user1282931,1.726248027126092,2.7669748712461706,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Limit to extrusion volume,\"Assuming heat transfer to melt the filament is not an issue, what’s the bottleneck in pushing more filament through the nozzle? Is extrusion volume per time proportional to applied extruder torque?\n\",Nach0z,\"The molten plastic in the extruder becomes a hydraulic fluid effectively when it gets melted. You're pushing on a fat piston (1.75 mm or 2.85 mm, depending on filament type), and shoving fluid out through a 0.4 mm or so hole. There's a limit to flow rate at a given pressure, but the bigger issue actually tends to be friction. Molten plastic really loves to grab on to metal, and the ratio of surface area to volume is fairly high in the long, skinny tube that is the inside of an extruder. To make matters worse, the not-quite-molten section of the melt zone up at the top normally doesn't make a lot of contact with the walls due to lower pressures not deforming the plastic all that much, but at higher pressures you get much more deformation, increasing the linear distance that the plastic is dragging against the tube walls, and the pressure with which the two surfaces are bonding together. Especially in cheapo clone extruders you'll find roughly bored inner surfaces with many circumferential grooves which exacerbate this issue - this is why most extruders have a PTFE lining as far down as they can go. I had this issue in my $3 \"\"all-steel\"\" extruder barrel, where even printing PLA was an issue because of how readily the plastic formed huge plugs and grabbed the inside of the extruder.\n\nSo what you end up with, is that increased torque mostly linearly translates to increased pressure, which results in linearly increased friction inside the barrel, plus a little bit extra due to extra deformation in the top of the melt zone. You can polish the inside of the barrel (heatbreak? seen both terms) to help alleviate internal friction somewhat.\n\nTo make things even more fun, there's obviously a limit with how much force you can exert through the mating surface of a single hobbed bolt and the side of the filament. Too much force and the teeth will simply rip off the side of the filament and then you'll have no feeding torque whatsoever. To get much higher torque you'd need to design an extruder that both supports the filament much better than modern designs do, and spreads the force out over a larger surface area, either by using a much larger diameter feed gear, or multiple tightly-coupled feed gears. \n\nI went into some degree of detail on the feed mechanism in this answer that another user asked about using a commercial extruder for plastic injection molding, which overlaps somewhat with your question here.\n\nI know the original question assumed perfect heat transfer that was not a limiting factor to the process, but how that actually works is relevant to the question as well. E3D took one approach with their Volcano design, simply by making the melt zone much longer to increase heat transfer; the downside is there's obviously substantially more friction when you've got 4x the linear distance of molten plastic against metal, assuming you're not using a PTFE liner. This does have the advantage of letting the plastic take its time to reach the target temperature, decreasing how far over your target plastic temperature you need to have the heating element. One thing not often discussed in 3d printers is the fact that the plastic asymptotically approaches the temperature registered on your thermistor. If you're printing very, very slowly, your plastic will nearly be exactly at the target temperature. If you print very quickly with very high volumes, you'll tend to have slightly cooler plastic than intended because it simply wasn't in contact with the heater long enough to come up to temperature. The solution for very small designs might be higher temperatures, but the drawback there is that if you slow down even for a moment, say moving to thinner line widths or picking up and moving the extruder, you'll overheat the plastic. So there's practicality questions that need to be answered to determine how you'll actually heat that much plastic to the right temperature. Increased distance improves reliability at the cost of increased friction (and therefore extruder torque required), and increased temperature mostly bypasses that question at the cost of reliability. \n\nTL;DR Increased extrusion speed requires increased pressure, which increases friction dramatically and in a non-linear fashion and results in stripped filament. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10154,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user1282931,2.528907649931287,3.601668775190381,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.306096197889172,Why heater blocks on hotends?,\"I understand that heater blocks act as kind of “low-pass-filter” on the temperature change of the hotend, but why do we need that? Wouldn’t it be better to have as little metal as possible in order to be able to control temperature changes quickly and precisely (using PID, pwm plus maybe some predictions based on printed g-code)?\n\",cmm,\"Heater blocks are used on hot ends because they are the current engineering compromise between the design factors of cost, reliability, lifetime, maintenance, and performance.\n\nIdeally, there would be no heater block, the heater would have infinite wattage, the nozzle would heat and cool instantly while transferring heat to the filament, and the temperature of the molten plastic would be measured instantly. \n\nBut as this is engineering instead of magic, none of these conditions is the ideal. The engineering problem is to find the right compromise.\n\nEach of these can be treated separately. How do we measure the temperature of the plastic? Assume we have a tiny thermocouple in the plastic flow. Why thermocouple? Because it is smaller, less prone to manufacturing tolerance, and is good for higher temperatures. \n\nImagine a heater where the heater wire forms the threads into which the nozzle screws and also where the nozzle has thinner walls to reduce the nozzle's thermal mass. Further, the nozzle is made of diamond which has almost ten times the thermal conductivity of brass. Yes, machining diamond is not easy, and the supply of large enough diamonds is limited, but we're trying not to compromise yet. \n\nIn this scheme, there is no heater block. We instantly know the temperature of the plastic, and we can dump large amounts of heat into the system to get a high enough temperature. We still must hold the nozzle in place and connect it with the filament source (typically the job of the \"\"heat break\"\"), so let's make that of thermally insulating ceramic so it stays out of the heat transfer process.\n\nWith this, we have a hot-end where we would have great control. We are directly measuring the parameter we care about -- the temperature of the plastic. We can deliver heat rapidly. When the extrusion rate increases, the temperature drops a little and we dump in more heat. The thermocouple is fragile (don't try a cold-pull), and is subject to wear. The nozzle is very expensive and difficult to make.\n\nOk, move the thermocouple to the outside of the nozzle's tip. Now we have a heater intimately wrapped with the threads of the nozzle. That is probably hard to make, so let's use a conventional heater cartridge that is very close to the nozzle threads. Let's put in as many heaters as we can pack together near the threads. If we angle the heaters they won't hit each other, so suppose we can put in four heaters spaced around the nozzle. More heat, less distance from the heat to the nozzle. Make this new heat block of silver, just like the nozzle. Silver has 80% higher thermal conductivity than aluminum. (Or we could use diamond, but really, who has diamonds that big?)\n\nI was assuming a thermocouple to measure the nozzle temperature, and it is small enough that it could nestle into a small home in the nozzle. We could use a thermister pressed into a hole in the nozzle, but experience has shown that thermisters are fragile. We have found that the tiny glass beads are prone to either breaking of the glass, separating from the thin leads. The electronics to measure temperature with a thermistor is simpler and less expensive than a thermocouple and seems to have good enough resolution, accuracy, and temperature range. If we follow that experience, we will package the thermistor in a cartridge housing that is easier and more reliably placed and protects the thermistor from damage. But the cartridge is too large to connect directly with the nozzle, so we'll put it in the same block with the heaters. After all, they are silver and conduct heat very well.\n\nThis may be a better hot-end than the conventional system. It heats faster and more accurately measures the temperature of the plastic. But there are problems. Silver is heavier, and four heaters and their wiring have more mass than one. And, the holes for the heater cartridges are each in a different plane, so it is more expensive to machine. And the price for the silver may be a factor. Silver costs (today) \\$215/lb, where aluminum is $0.80/lb.\n\nIn this answer, I have tried to show how heater blocks are useful for coupling the heat from the heaters to the nozzle and to show that there are alternatives with perhaps superior performance but problems with reliability or cost.\n\nEdit: In a comment, the OP asks why we do not machine away extra material that is not required to couple heat to the nozzle, and correctly raised the issue of cost. There may also be a performance issue. \n\nThe conventional heater is only on one side of the nozzle. When the heater is cooled by the filament, it draws heat from all sides. The thermal mass on the non-heated side helps with stability by providing a source of heat from which the nozzle can draw.\n\nOn the heater side, a factor to consider is the coupling of heat from the heater cartridge to the heater block. Removing additional material should be evaluated to assure that it does not increase the thermal resistance from the heater to the rest of the block and the thermistor. This is important to help with thermal stability, and also to assure that the heaters do not overheat themselves.\n\nFor thermal conductivity values, I used this reference.\nFor metals pricing, I used Google to find spot metal prices on 6/3/2019.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10154,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user1282931,2.528907649931287,3.601668775190381,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.306096197889172,Why heater blocks on hotends?,\"I understand that heater blocks act as kind of “low-pass-filter” on the temperature change of the hotend, but why do we need that? Wouldn’t it be better to have as little metal as possible in order to be able to control temperature changes quickly and precisely (using PID, pwm plus maybe some predictions based on printed g-code)?\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"I think the idea is to not change the temperature fast. You want it to maintain a certain temperature so you have consistent flow. The extra mass at the hot end provides the mass which is needed to maintain the heat. If you don't maintain the heat while you print, you'll have inconsistent filament flow, which will screw up your print.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10161,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user1282931,2.1782824847157594,3.309844377502676,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,PTFE detoriation temperature,\"I read that PTFE starts to deteriorate past 260 °C. Does that mean heating to 250 °C is no problem at all, or will that destroy the PTFE material over time to?\n\",Nach0z,\"Degradation starts at 260 °C and shifts towards full blown decomposition towards 350 °C. 250 °C is technically fine, but you should keep in mind that you've got little to no wiggle room for error at that temperature. Your thermistor and board may not be accurate enough to guarantee you'll never overshoot that temperature, and the way 3D printers often handle temperature adjustment exacerbates that risk. You can print at 250 °C, just be aware you've got basically no margin for error. \n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n10167,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user1282931,1.0891412423578797,3.442720459815422,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,High temperature flexible filament,\"I need to cool some liquid (250 °C) while it’s flowing through a tube which has to be able to bend and flex.\nMy idea is to make a flexible tube with a second tube spiraling around it through which coolant will flow.\n\nI’d like to 3D print this tube if possible so I wonder if there is some printable filament that:\n\n\ndoesn’t melt at 250 °C\nis flexible enough that it can print some tube that can bend (bending radius of 30 cm)\noptimally also has good heat conductivity\n\n\nIs there any 3D printer filament available that has these properties?\n\",dagoth,\"3D printing nerd showed a couple of filaments that fits this in his latest video \"\"Printers at RAPID + TCT 2019\"\":\n\n\r\n \r\n \n\nFirstly a Nylon 6 high temperature filament:\n\n \n\nAnother part of the video shows another flexible print, created on a four axis 3D printer, using TPU filament:\n\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n10173,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user1282931,1.0891412423578797,3.3364772277273533,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Watts of filament extrusion,\"I'd like to calculate the wattage lost through the filament being extruded (or in other words, at how many Watts I'd have to run an ideal heater that loses heat ONLY through filament so that it stays at constant temperature).\n\n\nWatts is defined as $\\text W =\\frac{\\text J}{\\text s}$\nSpecific heat capacity of a material is defined as $C =\\frac{\\text J}{ \\text K \\times\\text{kg}}$\n\n\nWhen extrusion happens, the filament of higher temperature leaves the hotend while the same weight of filament of lower temperature enters the hotend.\n\nLet's say the specific heat capacity of the filament is $C$ and the extrusion rate $r$ is given with units kg/s. The temperatures are $T$.\n\nIs it correct then to say that the Wattage of filament extrusion is $W = (c\\times T_\\text{Nozzle} - c\\times T_\\text{Environment}) \\times r$ \n\nmeaning that if I would run a heater cartridge at exactly W watts and extrude filament with rate r and the block would not loose heat through any other means than through the filament extrusion, then the nozzle temperature would stay constant?\n\",Trish,\"No.\n\nYour formula is quite off, and it starts with the nomenclature:\n\nWatt\n\nWatt is the unit of energy transfer which equals power. \n\nThe commonly used term \"\"wattage\"\" does not exist in science. It is a very despised shorthand only used in terms of electric power $P=UI$. \n\nBoth power $P$ (like work over time) and heat energy transfer $\\Delta Q$ (which is one variant of power) use the unit $\\text W=\\frac {\\text J} {\\text s}$, which is confusing but a necessary distinction. Always remember that $P_\\text{total}=\\sum_{i=1}^nP_i$ - the total power in and out of an object is the sum of all partial powers!\n\nHeat Energy transfer\n\nThe Heat energy transfer through an object is defined as the change of the heat energy $Q$ stored inside an object. $Q$ is given in $\\text J$, so its change $\\Delta Q$ is given in $\\text J$ too. To get to the change over time in $\\text W$ and one has to derive as $\\dot Q=\\frac {\\delta Q} {\\delta t}$.\n\nThe absolute change of heat energy of an item is defined as $\\Delta Q=m c \\Delta T$: Increasing the temperature $T$ of an object with the mass $m$ and specific heat capacity $c$ by $\\delta T$ results in a change of the stored energy by $\\Delta Q$.\n\nNow, mass and specific energy don't change over time, but we can substitute the absolute temperature change for a temperature change over time. $\\Delta T =\\dot T t + T_0$ where $T_0$ is an integration constant and the temperature offset at the start of the experiment.\n\nThis gives us $\\Delta Q=m c (\\dot T t + T_0)=m c \\dot T t +Q_0$ where $Q_0=mc T_0$ is the heat energy at the start of the experiment and allows us to pull $\\dot Q=\\frac {\\delta Q} {\\delta t}=m c \\dot T$.\n\nThat is for the total machine.\n\nProblem in question\n\nWe know that the drain of thermal energy from the system is via three ways:\n\n\nmelting plastic\nextruding heated plastic\nconvective heat loss to the air\nblack body radiation of the heater block\n\n\nWe know that the total balance in equilibrium should be $P_\\text{total}=P_\\text{heating}+Q_\\text{melting}+Q_\\text{extrusion loss}+Q_\\text{convection}+P_\\text{bb}=0$.\n\nheat deposited into the system\n\nLet's start at the simplest: we simply know the nominal heating power of the cartridge, it is usually written upon the cartridge itself, usually something in the area of 20 to 40 W. In praxis it is not exactly that, but the ballpark fits. Otherwise, we'd plug in $P_\\text{heating}=\\epsilon \\frac {U^2} {R}$ for our specific resistor, where $\\epsilon$ is a coefficient between 0 and 1 telling us how good it is in converting electric to heat energy. Remember that $U$ is technically a function of time (it is modulated to control heating behavior), our heating power also is, even though not explicit!\n\nblack body radiation\n\nBlack body radiation: $P_\\text{bb}=A \\sigma T^4$ where $A$ is the surface area of the object, $\\sigma$ is a constant called Stefan-Boltzmann Constant. That much thermal energy is just lost due to radiation via photons, even if we don't see it glowing.\n\nconvection loss\n\nThe change of heat energy via heat convection is roughly defined as $\\dot Q=\\theta A (T-T_f)$ which brings us another coefficient $\\theta$ about how good the block heats the air and the Temperature of the medium (air) around $T_f$. We can just multiply by the time to get back to the overall power of this process.\n\nAnd then we get to the biggest can of worms: the thermal heat transfer for melting the plastic and how much thermal energy is extruded from the system. For one of them, we can estimate some ballpark number, for the other, we will get into problems.\n\nextruded heat\n\nThe heat energy removed from the system by extruding plastic we can estimate from what we already established about thermal energy back in the Heat Energy transfer paragraph: $Q=mc(T_0+\\Delta T)$ using the $c$ of the molten plastic as it is extruded (more about that later). But that's not the loss per time, but the heat energy stored in it. So we need to somehow add the extrusion rate over time $e$. What factor is changing? It is the mass $m=r\\times t$ where $r=\\frac {\\text kg} {\\text s}$. So $Q_\\text{extrusion loss}=rtcT_\\text{extrusion}$ \n\nThis leaves us with the big problem: as 0scar correctly pointed out by directing to the PolymerDatabase the specific heat capacity is not a constant and not linear but changes depending on the aggregate of the substance. We can make some estimate about it though from how we formulated the total power and adding a few absolutes for convenience:\n\n$P_\\text{total}=P_\\text{heating}+Q_\\text{melting}+Q_\\text{extrusion loss}+Q_\\text{convection}+P_\\text{bb}=0$\n\n$P_\\text{heating}-|Q_\\text{convection}|-|P_\\text{bb}|-Q_\\text{extrusion loss}=|Q_\\text{melting}|$\n\n$\\epsilon \\frac {U^2}{R}-\\theta A(T-T_f)t-A \\sigma T^4-rtcT_\\text{extrusion}=|Q_\\text{melting}|$\n\nRemember, that $U$ is a time-dependent factor (it's most easy to assume U is a sine curve and even it over time into the $\\epsilon$ for a ballpark number), $T_f$ is also not a steady thing and changes depending on the airflow, $T$ itself might change over time as a result. $T$ is not equal to $T_\\text{Extrusion}$ but the temperature of the heater block system as a whole while the plastic filament does usually not have the same temperature on extrusion!\n\nConclusion tl;dr\n\nWhen eliminating the loss via convection and black body radiation and assuming them 0 or neglectable, we are left with this equilibrium situation, assuming that $\\epsilon$ achieves a perfect smoothing of the heating:\n\n$\\epsilon \\frac {U^2}{R}-rtcT_\\text{extrusion}=|Q_\\text{melting}|$\n\nThe sum of the thermal energy used to melt the filament and the energy stored in the extruded filament is equal to the energy deposited into the hotend (minus losses)\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10173,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user1282931,1.0891412423578797,3.3364772277273533,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Watts of filament extrusion,\"I'd like to calculate the wattage lost through the filament being extruded (or in other words, at how many Watts I'd have to run an ideal heater that loses heat ONLY through filament so that it stays at constant temperature).\n\n\nWatts is defined as $\\text W =\\frac{\\text J}{\\text s}$\nSpecific heat capacity of a material is defined as $C =\\frac{\\text J}{ \\text K \\times\\text{kg}}$\n\n\nWhen extrusion happens, the filament of higher temperature leaves the hotend while the same weight of filament of lower temperature enters the hotend.\n\nLet's say the specific heat capacity of the filament is $C$ and the extrusion rate $r$ is given with units kg/s. The temperatures are $T$.\n\nIs it correct then to say that the Wattage of filament extrusion is $W = (c\\times T_\\text{Nozzle} - c\\times T_\\text{Environment}) \\times r$ \n\nmeaning that if I would run a heater cartridge at exactly W watts and extrude filament with rate r and the block would not loose heat through any other means than through the filament extrusion, then the nozzle temperature would stay constant?\n\",0scar,\"This is very simply stated, in fact the specific heat is a function of temperature and state of the material (liquid or solid). Also you need to consider which type of specific heat you use, e.g. the one for constant volume $C_V$ or for constant pressure $C_P$. Constant pressure is probably preferred considering the mechanics of the printer (pressing filament into the nozzle-heatbreak assembly).\n\nA very interesting source of information is the PolymerDatabase.com.\n\nThis source confirms that:\n\n\n In the case of polymers, we have to distinguish between the heat capacity of liquid, rubbery and glassy polymers. The heat capacity increases with increasing temperature, therefore, a liquid or rubbery polymer can hold more energy than a solid polymer. All materials show this increase in heat capacity with temperature.\n\n\nalso:\n\n\n Specific heat capacities as a function of temperature have been published for only a limited number of polymers. In many cases, the heat capacity (at constant pressure) as a function of temperature can be approximated by straight lines.\n\n\nIn such cases you can use the value of the specific heat at a predefined temperature (in thermodynamics that is frequently 298 K) to get approximations for your thermoplastic material. These formulae can then be used to integrate over the temperature rise.\n\nPlease remember that a cartridge is of a certain value of Watt; to have a lower power, the cartridge modulates voltage to keep the heating block within a predefined temperature range.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n10189,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user1282931,2.1782824847157594,2.9075761835826794,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Pololu - connect motor supply ground and logic supply ground,\"Is it okay to directly connect together the grounds of the logic supply and the motor supply when using a Pololu style stepper driver?\n\n\n\nIf yes/no, why so?\n\",cmm,\"I could not find a schematic of the Pololu A4988 stepper motor driver, but I did find a photo of the board that includes the ground planes for both the motor and logic. On the reverse side of the board, they were not connected. They should not be connected on the driver cards.\n\nInstead, all the motor ground lines should be brought together at a point, and the Motor supply ground connected to that point. The V-motor should also be run radially to each stepper driver and connected to the V-motor supply.\n\nThere should be a single connection point between the motor ground and logic ground. No motor current should flow through any logic ground wire or circuit board trace. The motors are switching high voltages and high currents. If these currents pass through a logic ground line, they will introduce voltage spikes into the logic which can result in unexpected operation.\n\nThe 100 μF capacitor in the schematic is good for supplying low frequency energy needs, but it should be paralleled with a 1 μF capacitor and a 0.01 μF capacitor placed as close to the radial feed points as is practical. A larger capacitor tends to have higher leakage inductance, which limits the high-frequency response. A range of capacitors in parallel will perform better.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10189,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user1282931,2.1782824847157594,2.9075761835826794,0.0,4.670422881206417,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Pololu - connect motor supply ground and logic supply ground,\"Is it okay to directly connect together the grounds of the logic supply and the motor supply when using a Pololu style stepper driver?\n\n\n\nIf yes/no, why so?\n\",user77232,\"(This is more of an electronics.stackexchange.com question btw).\n\nIt is not only ok, it is absolutely necessary. The systems won't operate correctly unless all the gnds are tied together. Since this is a stepper motor, you don't have to worry about noise getting back onto the power supply lines for the logic supply, since the stepper board has a decoupling capacitor(s) to keep stabilize the power to the motors and the VCC of the logic supply will be unaffected by the GND of the other supply that its tied to.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10190,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user1282931,2.1782824847157594,3.079570220207228,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,StepStick Protectors,\"How do StepStick Protectors work and what exactly do they protect?\n\nIf I use them with Pololu style stepper drivers, can I unplug for example the motor while the driver is powered without damaging the driver?\n\",cmm,\"To Protect, or Not to Protect\n\nFrom the web site you reference:\n\n\n The SilentStepStick Protector is an add-on module for StepStick and\n Pololu A4988 compatible stepper motor drivers. The board provides\n flyback diodes (freewheeling diodes) for the motor outputs, so that\n they are also protected against induction voltages in the unpowered\n state of the driver.\n \n The v2 protector also contains a diode from the logic voltage (anode)\n to the motor voltage (cathode), so that the power supply order of all\n SilentStepSticks is always guaranteed.\n\n\nSince I assume you've read this, please indulge some explanation of the electrical engineering.\n\nMotors\n\nEvery motor has a part called the \"\"rotor\"\" that rotates, and a part called the \"\"stator\"\" that is stationary. \n\nIn the stepper motors usually used in 3D printers, the rotor is a permanent magnet and the stator consists of coils of wire. In normal operation, the current flowing through the coils creates a magnetic field. The rotor aligns itself with the field of the stator. To move, the stator field is shifted by changing the current in the coils, and the magnetic force causes the rotor to rotate to align the fields.\n\nGenerated Voltages\n\nAs Faraday discovered, a changing magnetic field induces a voltage in a wire. There are two ways that the magnetic field changes. The first is that the current changes or stops. That introduces little high voltage blips into the motor coils. The motor drivers are well prepared to handle this blips. The second is when the rotor is forced to turn by an outside force, such as sliding the bed. As these voltages are not related to action the motor driver is causing, some of the techniques used to handle the voltage spikes may not be as robust.\n\nThe protection boards you point to consist of diodes to limit the magnitude of the voltages that the coil can produce. This is redundant with the diodes and protections built into the driver chips, but it may offer stronger protection.\n\nBenefits?\n\nIn this responder's opinion, you are unlikely to see a great benefit from these boards, but perhaps there are vulnerabilities I am unaware of. You are also unlikely to do any harm.\n\nYou asked specifically if, with the protectors installed, you could unplug the motor while it is passing current. The protectors may help with that, or they may not. Interrupt the connection creates a spark, and arcing through the air, that makes many high-frequency components which may not (or may) be effectively clamped by the diodes. For best results, you could add the protectors, and also avoid interrupting the motor current while powered.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n10200,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user1282931,2.1782824847157594,3.3468467879848673,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,3D printer part clones from china - legality,\"What's the legal status of Chinese 3D printer part clones such as Hiwin linear rail clones or E3D hotends?\n\nWhile it's clear that Chinese clones are certainly sub-par in quality, no question, what I wonder is whether they violate any laws (they don't use brand names or claim to be the genuine product). \n\nIn particular, I’m interested whether it is in any way illegal to order such parts in the U.S. \n\nGiven that there's hardly any 3D printer that doesn't contain at least one Chinese part, I really think this is on topic. \n\nI also don't seek legal advice but any information other 3D printer users on here have.\n\",Greenonline,\"This question is really a legal question, and could apply to any cloned parts/devices rather than being 3D printer specific, and a generic counterfeit consumer goods based question should be asked on SE.Law. However, as you rightly state, a lot of 3D printers from China may contain (whether knowingly sourced or not by the manufacturer1) counterfeit parts, be that ICs, hotend designs (i.e. E3D clones), controllers (i.e. Arduino Mega boards or stand-alone non-RAMPS Arduino shield boards),or what have you. As such this is an issue that may be faced by any unwittingly innocent consumer.\n\nPrefacing any statement with I am not a lawyer (IANAL), these sections from Wikipedia entry on Counterfeit consumer goods might help answer your question:\n\n\nGrowing problem as will this \nEnforcement- US. \n\n\nIn short, if they have a mind to, Customs could seize it at the border; if your house was raided (for whatever reason) law enforcement could seize your printer (although this seems unlikely, unless they were explicitly raiding your house for knock-offs); and (more worryingly) there is a proposal to fine those people who purchase knock-offs.\n\nOf course this is not the only legal issue that may be encountered when buying Chinese devices/parts from less-than-reputable suppliers o eBay or AliExpress, for example, what if:\n\n\nit breaks and what legal recourse do you have as a consumer; \nit produces a poor quality or dangerous print; \nit explodes, what legal recourse do you have; \nand so on, etc. \n\n\nThese questions lead into rather murky grey and legally complex areas, and really would need to be dealt with by a legal professional (solicitor/lawyer).\n\n\n\nOther Stack Exchange posts worth reading\n\nThese deal more with quality not legality but see \n\n\nCan cheap hotend parts sourced from China actually produce good prints?, and; \nVaguely related - What are the pros and cons of collecting parts yourself, versus getting a DIY kit and then modifying it?\nAlso, which respect to the electronics: \n\n\nSome Arduino components seem ridiculously cheap and;\nCompatibility between Arduino and Arduino clones.\nThis answer to Arduino Clone - A request for the USB device descriptor failed interestingly points out that if the device is licensed appropriately (CC, open-source, etc.) then they may not be any legal issues at all related to cloning (but not counterfeiting - See What's the difference between a clone and a counterfeit Arduino?.\n\n\n\n\n\n1 A bone fide low end oscilloscope manufacturer got stung by a batch of fake regulator ICs just last year, see Re: JYE Tech DSO150 oscilloscope troubles\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n10202,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user1282931,-1.0891412423578797,3.2591265203387754,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Low hanging fruit improvements to FDM printers that are patented,\"What are some relatively simple improvements to FDM 3D printers that cannot be sold however because they are under patent?\n\nI know a heated build chamber is one such thing: According to the RepRap Wiki Heated_Build_Chamber:\n\n\n The disclosure on how to fabricate a heated build chamber might also be illegal as it is protected by patent.\n\n\nSo I wonder if there are similar \"\"simple\"\" FDM printer upgrades for which it currently would be forbidden to sell (or even promote?) parts due to patent infringement.\n\nThis is exactly the question I am interested in. This is not about a specific printer. A heated build chamber is a simple upgrade that would benefit pretty much any FDM printer. I am interested in other relatively simple upgrades which you won't find on most commercial 3D printers despite their simplicity for the reason that the feature is patented.\n\nWhat other simple improvements are there, that are protected by patents?\n\",user77232,\"\nPorisity control\nSeam hiding\nDissolvable supports\n\n\nPorosity Control - The ability of a 3d printer to produce a variable infil rate (e.g. 20%) is covered by a Stratasys utility patent.\n\nSeam Hiding - The ability of a 3d printer to start printing from a different point on the perimeter such that no seam appears on the printed part, is covered by a Stratasys utility patent.\n\nDissolvable supports - The ability of a 3d printer to print with 2 (or more) filaments such that one one of the filaments, acting as support material (or scaffolding), can be removed by sustained immersion in water, is covered by a Stratasys utility patent.\n\nhttp://www.afinia.com/wp-content/uploads/Afinia-Response-Stratasys-Complaint.pdf\n\nI could not find a url with the original Stratasys case, but I saved a copy back when it first came out. The document seems to be behind paywals now. You can reference it as : \n\nCASE 0:13-cv-03228-DWF-JJG\n\nUNITED STATES DISTRICT COURT DISTRICT OF MINNESOTA\n\nhttps://portal.unifiedpatents.com/litigation/Minnesota%20District%20Court/case/0%3A13-cv-03228\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10229,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user1282931,2.1782824847157594,3.858765237368842,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,2.880918201452841,What grease to use for linear rails?,\"What grease to use on linear rails to make them stick as little as possible? I've tried so far: \n\n\nWD40 (let’s not start a discussion about that please), \nsilicon spray and \nsome bearing grease called ‘motorex’, \n\n\nbut with all of them the rails stick quite much and don’t slide as easily as I’d hope.\n\nCan someone recommend some good grease for linear rails (specifically the hiwin type, 12-15mm)?\n\",0scar,\"Don't use grease, it is better to use a light oil to lubricate the rods. A light oil will help flush out any dust and filament debris, grease will trap it.\n\nI've used both light machine oil (like used for sewing machines) and PTFE based spray (Teflon). Grease is thick and will collect and trap dust and particles more easily than light machine oil.\n\n\n\nEven high-end consumer printers use light machine oil, e.g. the Ultimaker 3 Extended I got came with a bottle of light machine oil for the linear guide rails. Their advice is to regularly add a drop of oil on each shaft once in a while (how frequent depends on how much your printer prints).\n\",3.0411126502294303,0.0\n10229,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user1282931,2.1782824847157594,3.858765237368842,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,2.880918201452841,What grease to use for linear rails?,\"What grease to use on linear rails to make them stick as little as possible? I've tried so far: \n\n\nWD40 (let’s not start a discussion about that please), \nsilicon spray and \nsome bearing grease called ‘motorex’, \n\n\nbut with all of them the rails stick quite much and don’t slide as easily as I’d hope.\n\nCan someone recommend some good grease for linear rails (specifically the hiwin type, 12-15mm)?\n\",CrossRoads,\"I have (what I thought was Silicon) spray that was given to me by the garage door installer to lube the rollers for my garage doors. I spray some on a paper towel and wipe the X, Y and Z bars with that. It is called Zep 70. \n\nhttps://www.zep.com/product/zepcorporate/zep-70\n\n\n Zep 70 is a soy-based penetrating lubricant that utilizes a renewable soy solvent. It provides excellent long-lasting lubrication, and superior water displacement properties. Zep 70 will penetrate quickly and clean dirt and grease. It will also protect against rust and corrosion. Zep 70 is packaged in a 24 oz. can with a net weight of 18 ounces. \n Utilizing a soy-based solvent, a renewable source, helps to conserve nonrenewable resources such as petroleum.\n Non-evaporative solvent extends life of the lubricant.\n Quickly penetrates parts frozen from rust or corrosion.\n Displaces moisture and condensation which can cause corrosion.\n Treated surfaces are protected from rust.\n Helps clean dirt and grease from metal surfaces.\n\n\nReading the can contents, the Lubricant part seems to be TSRN-80100428-5003\nThe guides seem to slide on the bars with this stuff. Can't find a google hit on it.\n\nI also made a polycarbonate enclosure around my printer to keep dust from settling on everything.\n\",0.0,0.0\n9953,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Luke Dunn,1.726248027126092,2.846247604045449,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Order of solving printing issues,\"3D Printers (those who print, not the machine, dummy)!\n\nI haven't been printing in a while, so when I returned to my Monoprice Select Mini VII, of course it had been sprung out of whack. Some of my first prints would not even come out of the extruder until I realized I had some pretty bad (and worse, unnoticed!) heat creep going on. After fixing that issue, it became apparent that many more persisted.\n\nMy question for you all is this: In general, what problems should be addressed first when looking at a complete disaster of a print?\n\nI'm not going to specify any singular problem, but I am interested in seeing the \"\"order of operations\"\" for general problem solving when multiple issues exist. For example, \"\"Fix bed height before anything else; this is a common problem that produces multiple others.\"\" Hopefully, this can help others with multiple printing issues, too.\n\",Trish,\"The obvious ones first\n\nThis is, well, obvious. It is, what a visual and smell inspection shows. Stuff like missing or ruptured cables, bent rails, ripped or very loose belts, burnt smell or hung up software that is easy to see that it is going on needs to be addressed first.\n\nThe not so obvious next\n\nNext on the list are problems that have no obvious cause and effect. My order of operations to find these is like this:\n\n\nHoming\nmovement of XYZ\nBed leveling\nHeating test to 200 °C\nExtrusion of some millimeters\nRetract some millimeters\n\n\nThat solves the basic mechanical side, it shows that the machine technically could print. It is a visual as well as audial inspection. It also prepares the printer for printing. \n\nA test print next\n\nWhat's next, after having a machine that theoretically should be able to print is to print.\n\nStart with a simple thing. A cube for example. It shows problems with bed adhesion, surface finish, extrusion, temperature, layer shifting and layer adhesion.\n\nHalf of these problems are usually the result of temperature control. The rest but for layer shifting usually as a result of slicer settings.\n\n\nLayer shifting, the odd one out, most often would either be caused by a mechanical problem are using speeds which the printer can't cope with.\nSurface imperfections like blobbing shows too much extrusion and heat.\nGhosting so that the printer is resonating with its movement.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n9953,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Luke Dunn,1.726248027126092,2.846247604045449,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Order of solving printing issues,\"3D Printers (those who print, not the machine, dummy)!\n\nI haven't been printing in a while, so when I returned to my Monoprice Select Mini VII, of course it had been sprung out of whack. Some of my first prints would not even come out of the extruder until I realized I had some pretty bad (and worse, unnoticed!) heat creep going on. After fixing that issue, it became apparent that many more persisted.\n\nMy question for you all is this: In general, what problems should be addressed first when looking at a complete disaster of a print?\n\nI'm not going to specify any singular problem, but I am interested in seeing the \"\"order of operations\"\" for general problem solving when multiple issues exist. For example, \"\"Fix bed height before anything else; this is a common problem that produces multiple others.\"\" Hopefully, this can help others with multiple printing issues, too.\n\",Technoguyfication,\"Assuming there's something on the print bed, I usually look at at what the result is to determine what to check on the printer next.\n\nBefore doing anything physical with the printer, check your settings. You should have a decent understanding of what changes what and how the different numbers affect the print, as well as what they \"\"should\"\" be. Review them and make sure there's nothing that looks out of whack.\n\nNow for the specifics:\n\nIf it looks like the filament didn't extrude right, for example if it stopped extruding halfway, barely extruded at all, or there's gaps in the print, I would check the hotend. Reload the filament and push it through by hand to make sure it's not jammed. If the nozzle is fine and it still looks like you're having extrusion issues, I would check the following things:\n\n\nWiring to the motor\nExcess tension on the filament before it goes into the extruder (bowden/guide tubes, etc.)\nThe nozzle itself. Nozzles do wear out and they're relatively inexpensive so if I can't solve an extrusion issue with reloading the filament, the next thing I do is replace the nozzle.\n\n\nFor mechanical issues, it's a little more complicated. The very first thing I do is pluck the belts on my printers and make sure they're tight. It should play a low note somewhere around a G. If it's a thud, the belt is too loose. If it's a really high sound, the belt is probably too tight. Another thing I check is to make sure all linearly moving parts (such as the print bed, carriages for the nozzle, etc.) only move in the direction they are supposed to. Wiggle them back and forth and make sure nothing is loose on the printer.\n\nIf you don't find anything that would obviously indicate what the problem is, run the print again and watch it closely. If it's only messing up in a certain part of a print, make sure you watch what the printer is doing when it gets to those areas. Make note of the nozzle distance to the bed at startup, retraction and hopping during prints, and making sure no wires or anything are getting snagged. Listen to the printer too, if it's making any new noises such as clicking or grinding then you most likely have a problem on your hands.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n9961,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sebastian,1.0891412423578797,4.122314317552069,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Anycubic Chiron does not print correctly,\"I recently got my Anycubic Chiron. \n\nFirst I was very exited and set up the printer. I started the first manual leveling as described in the instuctions. After that I did the Autoleveling and started the test print - so far so good. \n\nAfter adjusting by 2 mm, further down I saw the round circle in the middle is not round and it seems that in some areas the printer does not position the nozzle correctly. As I printed a cylinder I saw the circle has two flat areas opposing each other when the build plate moves towards its end position. \n\nDoes anybody now how to fix this? Is there anybody with a Cura 4.0 Machine setting and a 0.05 mm with 0.4 mm nozzle profile?\n\",Mick,\"It is impossible to give a definitive answer without photographic evidence, since your description of the problem does not give enough information. The most common causes of \"\"circular objects not printing correctly\"\" are loose belts and loose grub screws on the belt drive pulleys.\n\nHowever, you should note that the printer's firmware will not allow the print head to be moved outside the defined maximum printing area under software (g-code) control. This will cause large objects to be truncated if they extend outside of the defined maximum printing area, and I suspect that this is what is happening.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n9967,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Erik,2.528907649931287,3.298894097750058,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Using extruder motor as 4th axis,\"I am currently working with a hobbyist robotic arm (uArm Swift Pro) which runs a modified version of Marlin 3D printing firmware. \n\nThe arm can be used as a 3D printer as well thus it has an extruder motor. I am not using it as a 3D printer, instead I am reusing the extruder motor as 4th axis to move the arm along a rail. The problem I have run into is that the extruder motor is accelerating in steps, that is accelerating up to a certain speed holds that speed for a while (1-2 s) and then accelerates up to a higher speed holds that for a while. It then decelerates in the same fashion. \n\nSo my question is where in the Marlin code is planing made for the E-axis and is it any different from planing the speed of the other axis? \n\",0scar,\"Movement of the steppers is controlled by the jerk and acceleration settings. Both are controlled/set in the Marlin configuration file.\n\n/**\n * Default Max Acceleration (change/s) change = mm/s\n * (Maximum start speed for accelerated moves)\n * Override with M201\n * X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]\n */\n#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION { 3000, 3000, 100, 10000 }\n\n/**\n * Default Acceleration (change/s) change = mm/s\n * Override with M204\n *\n * M204 P Acceleration\n * M204 R Retract Acceleration\n * M204 T Travel Acceleration\n */\n#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 3000 // X, Y, Z and E acceleration for printing moves\n#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 3000 // E acceleration for retracts\n#define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION 3000 // X, Y, Z acceleration for travel (non printing) moves\n\n/**\n * Default Jerk (mm/s)\n * Override with M205 X Y Z E\n *\n * \"\"Jerk\"\" specifies the minimum speed change that requires acceleration.\n * When changing speed and direction, if the difference is less than the\n * value set here, it may happen instantaneously.\n */\n#define DEFAULT_XJERK 10.0\n#define DEFAULT_YJERK 10.0\n#define DEFAULT_ZJERK 0.3\n#define DEFAULT_EJERK 5.0\n\n/**\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10000,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Erik,1.0891412423578797,2.55797842413943,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,PLA infill/perimeter-layer to mimic real bone hardness,\"I friend of mine is in need to have human bone printed for educational purpose. Of what I understood they will use it for practicing drilling in it and thus need the printed bone to mimic a real bone. He specified that he wanted them as hollow as possible and with the same (or close to the) density of real bone\n\nIs there anyone who had done a similar print, what material did you choose and how much infill/perimiter-layer did you use.\n\",R..,\"Generally, if you care about achieving a specific structure inside the \"\"interior\"\" part of a model to be printed, that structure needs to be part of your model rather than generated by a slicer. If it were me, I would programmatically generate a generic pattern for the pockets of hollowness in OpenSCAD over a region slightly larger than the bone, then subtract it from the solid bone. After that, slicer settings will be mostly irrelevant since it will be constrained by reproducing the layer outlines with lots of holes in them.\n\nI haven't done this, or anything really comparable, but it should work.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n9970,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,codeNinja,3.0576060275493275,3.858765237368842,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.548335113978322,3.9829738809469584,Add a laser module to Reprap Guru Prusa i3,\"I have a Reprap Guru Prusa i3 v2 3D printer. Here is a link to the 192 MB manual. And here is the link to the resources page for the Reprap Guru. Page 58 of the manual discusses electronics.\n\nI purchased a 5.5 W laser from an online resource (AliExpress). It has its own controller module. It has one connector with 3 pins\n\n\n12 V\nGnd\nPWM\n\n\nI want to now connect the laser module in-place of the 3D printer nozzle. I have been able to install it physically, but not sure how to connect it to the Reprap Guru Prusa i3 board.\n\nI am not an electrical engineer, but I am capable of connecting wires with clear instructions. Any pointers on how to connect this module to the 3D printer board is appreciated.\n\nUpdates:\n\n\nThe board of my 3D printer is an Arduino Mega 2560 board.\nI have been able to power the laser on using the fan connections and it can burn stuff (so it works). I have connected to the D9 pins\nNow need to figure out where to connect the PWM from the laser module to the Arduino Mega 2560 board\n\n\",0scar,\"By connecting to the D9 output header (see RAMPS 1.4 shield schematic below) you only have 2 wires that represent a scheduled load and ground. You actually need to connect the positive (red) lead to the power supply 12 V and the negative (black) lead to the ground. The third wire (usually a different color) needs to be connected to the actual D9 in your example; note that this one is connected to the MOSFET! And as such not readily available, it is far more easy to use an other free pin.\n\n\n\nJust use the PWM pin (attached to the MOSFET) of the print cooling fan (that schedules the MOSFET), you can then schedule the laser power with G-code M106, e.g. M106 S127 to select half the power (S255 would be max power). Alternatively, and probably a much better solution is that you can use any free (but exposed) pin of your microprocessor; you can set the value of that pin using G-code M42.\n\n\n M42 switches a general purpose I/O pin. Use M42 Px Sy to set pin x to value y, when omitting Px the LEDPIN will be used.\n\n\nThe only electrical wiring you need to do is to attach a wire (solder or connect to a header) to bundle that with a power and ground wire and route that to the laser module.\n\nNote that the PWM pins of the Mega are numbered D2 through D13. Also, D44, D45 and D46 are also PWM capable. Checking the RAMPS 1.4 (the board/shield of the Reprap Guru) pinout, you will see that D8, D9 and D10 are used for the MOSFETs (and as such not easily available and would require soldering). E.g. D2 and D3 are used by the X max/min endstops (note that most printers don't use an X-max, so pin D2 may be free on your machine). \n\nFor your purpose, any of the following pins can be used: D2, D4-7, D1112-13 and D44-46.\n\nBest option would be the D11 pin (on second thoughts, D4 might be a much better option as the timer associated with PWM on pin D11 is internally used in Marlin for generating interrupts); it has a pin you can connect to the SERVO header pin.\n\nThe image shows the location of the pins:\n\n\n\nAn example to connect a laser module is seen in this image:\n\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n10010,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,codeNinja,3.267423727073639,3.619173000051646,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,laser is engraving the negative space,\"I am using LightBurn to laser engrave on wood. I am just trying to print some letters. \n\nIn the softwares preview the output looks correct. The black part is where the laser should burn and the red part are traversal/scan lines\n\n\nWhen i actually print it the negative space is burnt by the laser (basically where the traversal/scan lines are shown in the preview above)\n\n\n\n\n\nWhat I was able to figure out is that:\n\n\nM42 P4 S255 properly turns on the laser when I send this command on its own,\nM42 P4 S0 properly turns off the laser.\n\n\nBut the issue is when I send the following G-code, the following happens:\n\nM42 P4 S255 <--- Laser turns on for a flash of a second\nG1 X15 <--- By the time the movement starts the laser is already off.\nM42 P4 S0\n\n\nWhen i stopped using PWM (via the D11) and instead connected directly to D9 (which is for the fan) this issue stops occurring. So this issue is only occurring when I use PWM. Any Guidance on what to check\n\nUpdate: I read the following on another forum. This might be the root cause here.\n\n\n M42 is an immediate command and would turn on the laser before it reached its intended start point, M106 and M107 are buffered so the on/off can happen in its intended locations.\n\n\",cmm,\"This is too long for a good comment but may fall short of being a true answer. If the mods prefer, I can recast it as a set of comments.\n\nThere are several differences between using a GPIO pin as a binary data pin and using one as a PWM pin, and the behavior depends on several factors:\n\n\nIs the PWM pin a native PWN pin with hardware support, or is the PWM function being implemented with software?\nHas the PWM pin been initialized as a PWM pin?\nWhat processor type is used?\nWhat is the PWM frequency?\nIs the pin a TTL compatible output [0.4 V low, 2.7 V high]? CMOS? What Vcc?\nFor that matter, what is the CPU?\n\n\nAs @0scar points out, the fan control pin is typically not connected directly to the fan, but instead uses a FET to provide isolation and switch more current than the output pin can provide. Depending on the circuit, it may be inverting or non-inverting. M42 Pxx S255 may be full on or full off. When the fan is controlled through the fan G-code, the firmware can take possible inversion into account.\n\nYou haven't said what the input circuit to the laser involves. \n\n\nIt is active high or active low? \nDoes it require a pulse train to keep the output on, or is it\nstatic? I don't know how yours works, but I could imagine designing\na laser module to require a continuous stream of pulses to keep the\nbeam active so that a failure in the drive circuit could not create\na safety hazard.\nIs it a TTL compatible input [0.7 low, 2.4 high]? CMOS? What Vcc?\nIs it something else?\n\n\nLaser etching is generally on-topic for this group given the close association with 3D printing tech, but people are less familiar with the \"\"standard systems\"\". For some of us to be helpful (especially for me to be helpful) we need more of the circuitry and firmware context.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n10010,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,codeNinja,3.267423727073639,3.619173000051646,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,laser is engraving the negative space,\"I am using LightBurn to laser engrave on wood. I am just trying to print some letters. \n\nIn the softwares preview the output looks correct. The black part is where the laser should burn and the red part are traversal/scan lines\n\n\nWhen i actually print it the negative space is burnt by the laser (basically where the traversal/scan lines are shown in the preview above)\n\n\n\n\n\nWhat I was able to figure out is that:\n\n\nM42 P4 S255 properly turns on the laser when I send this command on its own,\nM42 P4 S0 properly turns off the laser.\n\n\nBut the issue is when I send the following G-code, the following happens:\n\nM42 P4 S255 <--- Laser turns on for a flash of a second\nG1 X15 <--- By the time the movement starts the laser is already off.\nM42 P4 S0\n\n\nWhen i stopped using PWM (via the D11) and instead connected directly to D9 (which is for the fan) this issue stops occurring. So this issue is only occurring when I use PWM. Any Guidance on what to check\n\nUpdate: I read the following on another forum. This might be the root cause here.\n\n\n M42 is an immediate command and would turn on the laser before it reached its intended start point, M106 and M107 are buffered so the on/off can happen in its intended locations.\n\n\",codeNinja,\"M42 command is an immediate command. This means that it will run before the move GCode commands finish. This is exactly what i was facing. \n\nThis video has the walk-through of solving the issue: \r\n \r\n \n\nHere is the relevant PDF it talks about: The 2.8 watt, $100 Laser\nUpgrade for MPCNC.\n\nHere is the relevant section on page 7 of the PDF:\n\n1. The laser driver requires a 5 volt TTL input control signal. The\nMarlin fan control Mcodes (M106 and M107) will be used to\ncontrol the laser .Unfortunately, the Ramps fan output (D9) is a\n12 volt signal so we can’t use it. We'll need a quick firmware edit\nto remap the fan output from pin D9 (12v) to pin 44(5v).\n\n2. Make a backup copy of your Marlin firmware folder first. Open\nthe pins_RAMPS_13.h file in your Marlin firmware folder with a\ntext editor (wordpad). Search for the line where the fan pin is\nassigned and change it from pin 9 to pin 44.\n\n3. Save the changes and flash the revised firmware back onto your\nMega board. \n\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n9973,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SPJ,2.528907649931287,5.070649121138017,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Why is the center of my glass print bed lower than the corners?,\"I have a new Creality Ender 3.\n\nI suspect that I have not adjusted the eccentric nuts correctly, on the X-axis head carriage mounts. \n\nEven after a glass bed upgrade, using the Level Corners routine of the TH3D firmware, I can get the head to scrape a sheet of paper all 4 corners but that same sheet of paper does not then scrape the head in the center, unless I fold that paper in half.\n\nI could understand this if the rail on which the hot end travels is very slightly higher at the side opposite the extruder. I have tried turning the eccentric nut on that side until the head does trap the paper, but when I then repeat the Level Corners routine, the gap at the center has come right back.\n\nI already adjusted the eccentric nut on the extruder end because the wheels on the hot end carriage were showing an accumulation of brown dust in a ring around each wheel, which I heard was likely a sign that the carriage was \"\"too tight.\"\"\nSo basically, I am messing around with the eccentric nuts at both ends of the X-axis rail, chasing two problems at the same time, but I don't really know what I am doing.\n\nRecommendations?\n\",T. M.,\"This seems to be a common problem with ender-3 and cr-10 printers from Creality. Mine is the same way but not enough to keep prints from adhering. \n\nTypically the aluminum bed is not perfectly flat. If it’s not the glass may be able to flex enough that it can make a difference. There are a few ways to try to fix it. \n\n\nShim the low spots in the aluminum bed with aluminum foil or another thin material. Then the glass will sit on a flatter more well supported surface. \nBend the aluminum bed until it is flat.\nAdd a 5th leveling point under the middle of the bed. You could either make it adjustable which would be tricky to get to or create a support piece accurately or get one close and shim it. \n\n\nThe shimming process is probably the easiest and the one I may end up doing. But whether you shim it or do the other trick you need to measure for points that are out of flat. \n\nIf you get a decent straightedge and some feeler gauges and/or or shine a bright light from the other side and look for spots of light between the straightedge and the aluminum bed you can see where you need to shim or otherwise adjust it. You’ll need to move it at various angles through the center and other spots on the bed. That way you can see whether it is just the middle or if the edges are an issue too. \n\nAlso, once you check the aluminum bed, check the glass as it may not be flat either.\n\nThere was a YouTube video on the cr-10 I think that showed part of the shimming process and checking for level. I’ll try to see if I can find it to add a link here. \n\nI still didn't find the video I was looking for, but here is a useful related one that talks about tramming the bed (what 3d printing people call leveling)\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CcAmZqb-ZEE\n\nAnd here's a reddit thread about the issue. Someone incorrectly says the glass plate can't flex that much but it certainly can. We're talking small tolerances. Even granite slabs flex small amounts.\nhttps://www.reddit.com/r/CR10/comments/7d7gyh/aluminum_bed_warped_cant_get_it_to_do_anything/\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n9977,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sarah,0.0,3.636240664748639,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,\"Ultimaker Cura, Slic3r won't start after Windows 1809 Update\",\"I have a few issues since the 1809 update from Windows.\n\nUltimaker Cura and Slic3r don't start anymore after the update.\nI've tried different versions, also uninstalling and reinstalling it all, without any luck.\nBoth programs don't respond right after starting.\nThe log doesn't provide any info in Ultimaker Cura. In Slic3r I am not able to find the log.\n\nI should have mention that I use windows 10 Pro with an AMD VEGA graphics card.\n\",Trish,\"I can not replicate the error on Windows 10 Home: both my Ultimaker Cura 3.6.0 and Slic3r 1.3.0 64 bit launch perfectly fine without the use of admin rights. \n\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n9979,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Charles Duffy,2.1782824847157594,2.6202374972039784,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Entwined fiber-filled filament stops extruding after a few layers,\"I recently took my first shot at printing with specialty filament -- Entwined by 3-D Fuel -- on a Lulzbot TAZ having an 0.5mm nozzle. (Note that this is the original Entwined, not the mid-2018 \"\"v2\"\" with smaller fibers; Just purchased from MicroCenter this weekend, and saw a 2017 production date when reading the label).\n\nWhile the filament in question can be reliably and consistently extruded at full speed (as with the \"\"Continuous Load\"\" button), I've repeatedly had it stop extruding partway through my prints. This is much worse with lower layer heights. Even when this has happened and several MM have been \"\"printed\"\" with no content, pausing the print, going to the load/unload menu, and telling it to extrude filament at full speed indicates that it's not by any means fully clogged, but only failing to extrude at the configured speed.\n\nWhere should I start in tuning to try to get a reliable print with this specialty material?\n\nI'm using Cura LE 3.6.9 for slicing. The center item of the three below was printed at 210C, with the most successful at 0.25mm layer height (Cura's default of 0.1mm had far worse results -- not included in the below photo -- with the base layer almost not being there at all; 0.175 did somewhat better).\n\nI'm using the bed heated to 45C, in line with the manufacturer's guidance (that a heated bed is optional, but should be set to 45-60C).\n\n\n\",Charles Duffy,\"I've managed to get a successful print! The key was to keep the material moving quickly. The settings I've customized are as follows:\n\n\nPrint Speed: 70 mm/s\nLayer Height: 0.4 mm\nDefault Printing Temperature: 215C\n\n\n...and perhaps not as necessarily:\n\n\nShell Wall Thickness: 0.8 mm\nWall Line Count: 3\nAlternate Extra Wall: True\n\n\nAlso, I've found it important to print a skirt (perhaps a double-walled one), and watch the first-layer closely and be willing to push more material through and restart: The material in the hotend can easily form a partial clog while the printer runs through its auto-leveling / head-cleaning routine, thus needing to have more material pushed through before the job starts in earnest.\n\nBy the way, the model is https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1993747, by Holodrio on Thingiverse.\n\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10427,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Charles Duffy,1.0891412423578797,3.715724072594654,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Inland PLA+ stringing badly at manufacturer-recommended temperature ranges,\"I've seen conflicting advice on the correct printing temperature for Microcenter's house-brand Inland PLA+, particularly after a supplier change announced in April 2018.\n\nThere's an official post from Microcenter, where they state that their PLA+ from both the suppliers they use prints best from 215-225 °C. (The label on the spool specifies 205-225 °C).\n\nHowever, I've run a series of Benchy prints with recently-purchased white inland PLA+ at different temperatures (with a Lulzbot SL toolhead and 0.1 mm layer depth, slicing by Cura LE 3.6.10 after repairing the STL with Microsoft's repair tool, movement 30 mm/sec), and my experience is very different:\n\n\n220 °C has very severe stringing and blobbing, including blobbing on top surfaces. The text on the base is not visible at all.\n215 °C has substantial stringing and blobbing, particularly on inside surfaces, but not on the roof of the boat (except the prow). The text on the base is partially visible.\n210 °C looks very good; there are some tiny blobs on the nameplate and the inside door, and no stringing. This was the first one that didn't require a razor blade to remove from the PEI surface. The text on the base is very clear.\n205 °C looks great.\n\n\nIs something wrong with my equipment, such that it's printing with a higher temperature than it reads? Is Microcenter's advice off? Could I have a batch that behaves differently than is expected for the same filament in general?\n\nMore to the point -- what advice do others have to get good results with Inland PLA+?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"A portion of information missing from the manufacturer's specifications and in the question is the print speed. You could have slower speeds than the manufacturer used to perform the tests, which requires lower temperatures to reduce the \"\"flow rate\"\" of the plastic to an acceptable level. \n\nIn some cases, I use as low as 20 mm per second print speed, others can be as high as 60 mm per second. At the higher speeds, I will increase the temperature five degrees C to ensure that the hot end can keep up with the increased filament extrusion. Alternatively, slower speeds need lower temperatures. The variation may not be larger as described for your system. You've already experienced a substantial difference based on your posted numbers.\n\nIt would be unrealistic to collect others' experiences with a specific brand unless color choice, print speed, printer model/hot end model, etc are also collected. Let's include part cooling fan settings as well to complicate the task even more.\n\nYou can consider to check the great Thingiverse library for temperature test models. These files are used to print various segments at different temperatures. Due to the above noted factors, you may find your result can be clustered or may find they cannot, based on color, manufacturer, age, etc. It is a valuable resource to improve your printing results, however.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10427,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Charles Duffy,1.0891412423578797,3.715724072594654,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Inland PLA+ stringing badly at manufacturer-recommended temperature ranges,\"I've seen conflicting advice on the correct printing temperature for Microcenter's house-brand Inland PLA+, particularly after a supplier change announced in April 2018.\n\nThere's an official post from Microcenter, where they state that their PLA+ from both the suppliers they use prints best from 215-225 °C. (The label on the spool specifies 205-225 °C).\n\nHowever, I've run a series of Benchy prints with recently-purchased white inland PLA+ at different temperatures (with a Lulzbot SL toolhead and 0.1 mm layer depth, slicing by Cura LE 3.6.10 after repairing the STL with Microsoft's repair tool, movement 30 mm/sec), and my experience is very different:\n\n\n220 °C has very severe stringing and blobbing, including blobbing on top surfaces. The text on the base is not visible at all.\n215 °C has substantial stringing and blobbing, particularly on inside surfaces, but not on the roof of the boat (except the prow). The text on the base is partially visible.\n210 °C looks very good; there are some tiny blobs on the nameplate and the inside door, and no stringing. This was the first one that didn't require a razor blade to remove from the PEI surface. The text on the base is very clear.\n205 °C looks great.\n\n\nIs something wrong with my equipment, such that it's printing with a higher temperature than it reads? Is Microcenter's advice off? Could I have a batch that behaves differently than is expected for the same filament in general?\n\nMore to the point -- what advice do others have to get good results with Inland PLA+?\n\",Trish,\"Even as PLA+ contains some additives, each printer is different. We usually never know what the actual temperature of the printhead is, but if your printer prints good at 205 °C, despite the manufacturer claiming you should use a little more temperature, use it. It might be the perfect combination of temperature and speed for your printer. Your printer is not the benchmark machine the manufacturer of the filament used, and we have no idea what speeds they used if they had an enclosure and what style of hotend they used.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10803,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Charles Duffy,2.528907649931287,3.4199815613998,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,\"How do PLA, PETG, TPU, ABS and/or nylon work together in a single print?\",\"I have a dual-extruder printer with a separate heating element for each head, thus able to combine materials in a single print job even if they don't share a single temperature range.\n\nNow the question: When (outside of using expensive dedicated support material or doing multicolor prints for aesthetic reasons) is this actually useful?\n\nOf common printable filaments (PLA, PETG, TPU, ABS, nylon):\n\n\nDo some of these materials work well (which is to say, substantially better than just doing a single-material print with same-material supports) as breakaway supports for others?\nCan some of these materials be dissolved in household solvents that don't harm others?\nDo some of these materials adhere to each other strongly enough (and have sufficiently similar profiles in how they shrink on cooling) to reliably generate finished pieces comprising of both? (Especially relevant for anything+TPU, where one might want to generate a design with some soft or rubbery components).\n\n\",cmm,\"I have printed ABS on top of PLA and it has bonded well. It was simple, then \"\"campaign\"\"-style buttons with Prusament Galaxy Black on the bottom and HatchBox white ABS on top. There was no tendency to warp, as I would expect if the ABS were shrinking more than the PLA.\n\nI expected this to not work, but I needed white on black and these were the filaments I had.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10803,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Charles Duffy,2.528907649931287,3.4199815613998,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,\"How do PLA, PETG, TPU, ABS and/or nylon work together in a single print?\",\"I have a dual-extruder printer with a separate heating element for each head, thus able to combine materials in a single print job even if they don't share a single temperature range.\n\nNow the question: When (outside of using expensive dedicated support material or doing multicolor prints for aesthetic reasons) is this actually useful?\n\nOf common printable filaments (PLA, PETG, TPU, ABS, nylon):\n\n\nDo some of these materials work well (which is to say, substantially better than just doing a single-material print with same-material supports) as breakaway supports for others?\nCan some of these materials be dissolved in household solvents that don't harm others?\nDo some of these materials adhere to each other strongly enough (and have sufficiently similar profiles in how they shrink on cooling) to reliably generate finished pieces comprising of both? (Especially relevant for anything+TPU, where one might want to generate a design with some soft or rubbery components).\n\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"The answers are \n\n\nyes\nyes\nprobably\n\n\nWhich is to say, if you only want to use MaterialNumberTwo for disposable supports, then you should be fine. Presumably the slicer software is material-aware and adjusts the feed so the layer heights are the same for both materials. BUTbe careful that the support material isn't higher-temp than the object material, or supports which start from the object rather than the bed may cause local melting or distortion when the first layer is deposited on the cooler-melt material. \n\nBut if you want to try to intertwine two materials for the final product, then certainly bonding will be a major risk, as will shrinkage during cooling (not to mention the risk of melting the lower-temp material while depositing the higher-temp material on top of it!). If at all possible I'd recommend printing such parts separately and fitting them together post-print. \n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n11103,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Charles Duffy,2.8153892694839717,3.040452265895426,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,What do I need to know to successfully use Taulman/Dow EVOLV3D™ USM Universal Support Material?,\"Taulman3D advertises a soluble support material (EVOLV3D™ USM Universal Support Material) that handles temperatures appropriate for nylon and is completely safe to flush down the drain. There's very little about how to print with it successfully, however, or how to remove it after printing.\n\nOther than the documented (wide) print temperature range (200-250 °C), what do I need to know?\n\",Charles Duffy,\"Advice From Taulman\n\nOn emailing Taulman asking for advice (after getting some initial failed prints), they responded with the following:\n\n\n [...W]e use the following settings. Support:\n \n \n Flow 115 %\n Infill = 8-10 %\n 2 full surfaces at 100 %\n Support speed 50 % of print speed.\n \n\n\nWhat I've learned trying to apply that advice:\n\n\nTurning the flow percentage up as advised is a good idea.\n17 mm/s is definitely much too fast for this material -- at that speed it's more likely to stick to the nozzle than to the base layer -- but at 8.5 mm/s it prints well.\nThe advice to keep the infill percentage low is solid if you want to be able to mechanically remove any readily accessible sections. I've tried a print with 30 % infill after trying to diagnose a failure (more on that below), and while the print came out well, the support infill couldn't be mechanically removed, and was also very slow to dissolve (see below).\n\n\nOn Support Removal\n\nAt Taulman's recommended 10 %-or-below infill percentage, any accessible parts can be mechanically removed. At 30 %, that's not really possible anymore -- though 5-10 minutes in boiling water might get the edges loosened up enough to let the bulk of the material be scooped away.\n\nIf you're just going to let it sit in tap water that isn't being circulated, expect that to take a long time, and to have several cycles of scraping out material that's turned to a gel to allow more to be exposed.\n\nUsing boiling water speeds the process substantially. If you're using USM with a nylon (or other material that's safe to bring to 100 °C), do that.\n\nHow's Its Adherence To Nylon?\n\nNot as strong as its adherence to itself. If you print a ceiling of USM on top of support infill of nylon, it's possible for that ceiling to come away with the print head; thus, it reduces risk of failed prints to use USM for the infill as well.\n\nThus, the \"\"2 full surfaces at 100 %\"\" advice given by Taulman above isn't (as I interpret it) just about ensuring that there's a successfully-printed support floor or ceiling; it's also about ensuring that there's enough surface area between the support floor and the nylon of the main print for them to adhere.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n9991,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Alex Szatmary,1.726248027126092,3.8364869557858974,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Material for autoclave-able part,\"I’m designing a part that will need to be autoclaved—it will be under steam at 121°C for about 15 min per job and I will want it to be able to go through the autoclave repeatedly. I ran a test PLA part through the autoclave and it warped noticeably; based on their glass transition temperatures, ABS (105ºC) and PETG (80ºC) would probably also not hold up. For a consumer-grade FDM printer, what filament materials that could be used for parts that could be autoclaved?\n\",Alex Szatmary,\"It might seem that common 3D printer materials such as PLA and ABS should be capable of being autoclaved—unfortunately. However, although their melting temperatures are higher than autoclave temperature (typically 121ºC), their glass transition temperatures are below that limit so they can warp or undergo creep deformation.\n\nSterilization of numerous plastics is described here, with PLA, ABS, and PET all being described as \"\"poor\"\" for autoclaving. For each \"\"good\"\" material on that list, I looked for filament by Googling and consulting material guides from Prusa and Matter Hackers.\n\nPolypropylene (PP) or acetal (POM, also known as Delrin) are the best choices. Filament is available for PEEK, PEI (ULTEM), FEP, PPSU, and PPS but these filaments are expensive (>$100/kg) and require high extruder temperatures (>300ºC).\n\nIn contrast, PP is about $50/kg and uses an extruder temperature of 254ºC; POM is similarly priced and uses an extruder temperature of 210ºC. Nylon (depending on the exact type) and HT-PLA may also be worth considering.\n\n\"\"High temperature\"\" filaments are not worthwhile for this application. Again, they're expensive and, more significantly, do not work well with consumer-grade 3D printers. For example, the upper limit for a Prusa i3 MK3s is about 280ºC—the thermistor only is good up to that temperature. Higher temperatures would require swapping out sensors and modifying firmware and building an enclosure. It's been done. Printers designed for high-temperature filaments easily cost thousands of dollars.\n\nThis question was previously asked on Reddit a few times but this analysis is more comprehensive.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n10595,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,stefanu,1.0891412423578797,3.0158611934564274,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Bevel gears 3D model,\"Goal : create a pair of bevel gears for 90 degrees angle axles.\n\nContext : the gears are designed with an OpenSCAD library (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1604369, function 'pfeilkegelradpaar'), then I try to modify them using TinkerCAD.\n\nThe problem : When printing the STL exported from OpenSCAD, everything seems fine. But when I import the STL in TinkerCAD, there is a separation where the angle changes, and I cannot seem to find a configuration that works.\n\n\n\nAlso, when previewing with Cura (tried with the older v14 as well as the latest v4), I get the same behavior : the exported STL creates a solid object, while the STL from TinkerCAD (even if not modified, just imported and exported) has a 'gap' of about 8 layers.\n\n\n\nAnd, of course, everything fails afterwards.\n\nAny help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.\n\",cmm,\"I don't know how to explain how the problem is occurring with the STL post-processing tools you are using. \n\nTry loading the STL directly into a slicer and view the result, then slice and view the toolpath. It is always helpful to eliminate steps in an attempt to narrow down where the problem is generated.\n\nWere I to try to patch the OpenSCAD model, I would create a hub component that overlays where the crack is found. This would be small cylinder with a hole that overlays the hub.\n\nI have had success adding elements and holes to existing OpenSCAD models and imported STL files using OpenSCAD.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n11116,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,stefanu,2.8153892694839717,2.5072605669755292,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Anet A6 ERR MAXTEMP BED error,\"Out of the blue my A6 printer displays a ERR MAXTEMP BED error and shows about 100 degrees on the bed even when just powered on.\n\nA quick thermistor check shows that it's working properly : about 80 kOhm at room temperature, similar to other units (didn't bother to really check the specs).\n\nSwapping the bed thermistor for the head thermistor connector does not change the temperature readings : the one connected to the bed input gets 100 degrees, while the other one works as expected, proving that the connector and thermosensor are ok.\n\nIt has to be in the board. How do I fix it?\n\",stefanu,\"I'm posting the answer here hoping that will help anyone that encounters a similar issue. A post on another site indicated that these boards are known to be problematic.\n\nAfter some digging, I came up with the schematics of this part of the mainboard :\n\n\n\nI'm not an electronics genius, but clearly it's not the capacitor; so that leaves the pull-up resistor or the microcontroller.\n\nSince the printer is already unusable, no harm in trying to replace the resistor, which is located just next to the connectors; for the bed it was the second from left, but if you encounter the same issue with another input, you may need to locate the proper one.\n\nMake sure you have the proper tools and knowledge for removing and soldering SMD components; in my case it was a 4k7 resistor in 0805 footprint.\n\nBottomline : replacing a less-than-one-cent resistor saves a month of waiting for the delivery of a $25 board.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n9994,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mikelo,1.726248027126092,2.729972460763979,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,\"No extrusion, but manual extrusion works\",\"I just bought and build my first 3d printer (HE3D K280 with Marlin) and I'm encountering some problems with Cura 4 and Repetier. When I load and slice a part, the printer does not extrude anything during printing. However, when I manually extrude like 100mm (G1 F100 E100) it does work. Now I'm suspecting the problem lies with the gcode file which is generated with Cura since it contains very small values for E:\n\n ;Layer height: 0.2\n ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.0.0\n M140 S60\n M105\n M190 S60\n M104 S200\n M105\n M109 S200\n M82 ;absolute extrusion mode\n G28 ;Home\n G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm\n ;Prime the extruder\n G92 E0\n G1 F200 E3\n G92 E0\n G92 E0\n G1 F1500 E-6.5\n\n;LAYER_COUNT:250\n;LAYER:0\nM107\nG0 F3600 X-7.753 Y4.378 Z0.3\n;TYPE:SKIRT\nG1 F1500 E0\nG1 F1800 X-8.127 Y3.918 E0.01115\nG1 X-8.35 Y3.57 E0.01893\nG1 X-9.088 Y2.287 E0.04677\nG1 X-9.348 Y1.754 E0.05792\nG1 X-9.483 Y1.376 E0.06547\nG1 X-11.413 Y-4.956 E0.18999\nG1 X-11.547 Y-5.534 E0.20115\nG1 X-11.602 Y-6.124 E0.2123\nEtc...\n\n\nDoes anyone know how to fix this? \n\",0scar,\"I think that you have the incorrect diameter specified (e.g. 2.85 mm instead of 1.75 mm) in your slicer; this also appears from a calculation, see below. Note that you can calculate from extruded volume entering the hotend, or deposited volume. For the first you could calculate the line width of the deposited line and verify that with the settings; from the second you can verify if the volume for the extruded filament equals filament volume based on extruded filament going into the hotend for an assumed line width. Do note that (certainly for first layers!) modifiers may be in place. This is merely to get a ballpark feeling for the chosen filament diameter.\n\nIf you look at the first move from:\n\nG0 F3600 X-7.753 Y4.378 Z0.3\n\n\nto:\n\nG1 F1800 X-8.127 Y3.918 E0.01115\n\n\nYou can calculate the travelled distance $ s = \\sqrt{{\\Delta X}^2+{\\Delta Y}^2} = 0.59\\ mm$. Also, from these moves you can see that $0.01115\\ mm$ of filament enters the extruder $(E)$.\n\nThe deposited volume ($V_{extruded_filament}$) of the printed line equals the cross sectional area $\\times$ length of the deposited filament path. Area could be defined as taken from e.g. the Slic3r reference manual to be: \n\n\n\nBasically (as we apply conservation of mass) the filament volume $(V_{filament})$ entering the hotend need to be the same as the extruded filament volume $(V_{extruded_filament})$ leaving the nozzle; so $ A_{filament}\\times E = A_{extruded\\ filament}\\times s $.\n\nThis latter equation can be solved for $w$ by filling out the known parameters. From this calculation follows that for $1.75\\ mm$ filament you get a calculated line width of about $0.22\\ mm$, and respectively for $2.85\\ mm$ filament you get $0.46\\ mm$ line widths.\n\nAs the nozzle diameter has not been specified in the question, but most commonly used nozzle diameter often is $0.4\\ mm$, and modifiers for the first layer are at play to print thicker lines; you most probably have the have the wrong filament diameter set if you have a $1.75\\ mm$ extruder setup. Basically it under-extrudes.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n10038,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mikelo,1.726248027126092,3.5424424008133717,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Can't seem to fix over extrusion,\"I'm struggling to get my printer up and running for a few days now. The problem is as follows. I got a test model of a cube (40x40 mm) and everytime I try to print it, the nozzle creates these 'lines' on the print which is caused by over extrusion I think? See image:\n\n\n\nThis goes on for every bottom layer and ultimately when it starts printing the infill the nozzle starts digging into the print and I'm forced to stop the printer, see image:\n\n\n\nWhat I have tried so far:\n\n\nCalibrating my extruder (by marking 100 mm on filament and command extruding 100 mm, check difference and adjust E step/mm accordingly)\nPerformed an auto bed leveling\nI even halved my flow rate in the slicer (Ultimaker Cura), this gave signs of under extrusion of the first layer but the second layer looks over extruded again\nTried different temperatures in the range of 190-210 °C (I'm using PLA), made no significant difference\n\n\nMy settings and gear:\n\n\nHE3D K280 Delta 3D printer\nE3D V6 Volcano hot end (original, not chinese)\nE3D Titan Extruder (original)\nMarlin 1.1.8 using Ultimaker Cura as slicer\nNozzle 0.6 mm, layer height 0.2 mm, print speed 50 mm/s\n1.75 mm PLA\n\n\nIf anyone could help me fixing this that would be great!\n\",cmm,\"I would look for Z-axis compliance or springiness. If the Z-axis is too compliant, then it will have a \"\"slight drag on a piece of paper\"\" over a significant commanded Z height.\n\nWhen printing the first layer, the head will be elevated by the pressure of the plastic being extruded pressing against the bed. When printing the second layer, the actual Z-height won't be a full layer higher, as the previous layer was lifted. The second layer will also be lifted, but it will drag through the first layer.\n\nTo test for this, manually set the z-height using a metal feeler gauge. If you don't have one, use a strip cut from the side of a soda can. Set the z-height so that there is some like pressure against the gauge. Increase the height by 0.1mm. The gauge should now be free. If not, continue increasing by 0.1mm steps until the gauge is free. That is how much compliance you have in the feed.\n\nFrom a home-designed delta I built, I know that there are several sources of this compliance. \n\nFirst check the 12 joints. Are they tight? Do they have wiggle room? That wiggle room can destroy your precision. Try squeezing the pairs together at the top and bottom with rubber bands.\n\nSecond, check that the print head carrier (the part that moves around) is stiff and doesn't flex with pressure against the nozzle.\n\nThird, check that the vertical travelers are following their tracks tightly. There should be no wiggle room for them, either.\n\nFourth, check the belts, which must be tight. If there was no vertical wiggle in test three, they are probably OK, but tighter is usually better.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10038,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mikelo,1.726248027126092,3.5424424008133717,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Can't seem to fix over extrusion,\"I'm struggling to get my printer up and running for a few days now. The problem is as follows. I got a test model of a cube (40x40 mm) and everytime I try to print it, the nozzle creates these 'lines' on the print which is caused by over extrusion I think? See image:\n\n\n\nThis goes on for every bottom layer and ultimately when it starts printing the infill the nozzle starts digging into the print and I'm forced to stop the printer, see image:\n\n\n\nWhat I have tried so far:\n\n\nCalibrating my extruder (by marking 100 mm on filament and command extruding 100 mm, check difference and adjust E step/mm accordingly)\nPerformed an auto bed leveling\nI even halved my flow rate in the slicer (Ultimaker Cura), this gave signs of under extrusion of the first layer but the second layer looks over extruded again\nTried different temperatures in the range of 190-210 °C (I'm using PLA), made no significant difference\n\n\nMy settings and gear:\n\n\nHE3D K280 Delta 3D printer\nE3D V6 Volcano hot end (original, not chinese)\nE3D Titan Extruder (original)\nMarlin 1.1.8 using Ultimaker Cura as slicer\nNozzle 0.6 mm, layer height 0.2 mm, print speed 50 mm/s\n1.75 mm PLA\n\n\nIf anyone could help me fixing this that would be great!\n\",0scar,\"Your images look as if your initial nozzle to heat bed offset is too large. This causes the filament not to be squished. Try re-levelling and have a piece of plain printing paper have a little drag when pulled.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n9996,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Peltier Cooler,1.726248027126092,2.7669748712461706,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,PID autotune fails under all conditions so far. Any ideas I haven't tried?,\"I got some i3 Prusa clones with Melzi boards with Marlin, or nearly so. One of them performed very well (considering that the board would reboot whenever power was applied to the build plate. But I digress) until finally the hot end failed, possibly due to me running it for two days with little respite. The replacement, a typical MK8 clone, installed almost painlessly but failed to start due to over-temperature conditions (we're talking as much as 45C over set temp). I tried the known solutions, continually reducing my P value (got down to 7 before I gave up) and attempting autotune. I also tried autotuning to both higher (230C) and lower (150C) temperatures.\n\nNone of these seemed to produce an autotune successfully, and the same error message \"\"temp to[sic] high\"\" appeared in all cases. Can anyone suggest something besides a new hot end (I have one on order, but what if I have the same problem with another new one)?\n\nSuggestions are welcome.\n\",Peltier Cooler,\"Turns out I'm using a 12V hot end and should be using 24V. I looked up the resistance to be sure; so no amount of tuning the PID would fix that.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n10081,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Peltier Cooler,1.726248027126092,3.071923460387521,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,Tronxy Marlin boards (two of them) reboot when asked to heat bed,\"I have two Tronxy 2.0 V5 Marlin boards that reboot whenever heat is applied to the bed. The bed has been swapped (because I thought that was the problem) for a new shiny one. The thermistors, too, of course. The same boards (both) work when the beds remain unheated (setpoint = 0 °C).\n\nAny ideas what might be causing this, or what I might do to figure it out?\n\nNote: I really have no idea which Tronxy board this is; the \"\"2.0\"\" is stenciled on the board, so that's all I can figure out. I shamefully admit I tagged it with Tronxy x1 to see if I could generate any interest, and because a \"\"Tronxy\"\" tag is not available.\n\",cmm,\"First, check the power supply. Although it may be specified to deliver the required power, it is possible that the power supply has failed in a way that it can not deliver the rated power. At lower load, the voltage may be correct, but under higher load, it either droops or cuts out completely.\n\nTo check this, use a voltmeter on the power as it enters the CPU board, not where it leaves the power supply. This accomplishes one additional check. If the voltage droops rather than cuts off, it may be that the connections have corroded and have a higher resistance.\n\nIf you have any kind of oscilloscope, I would recommend it over a simple voltmeter, because the power interruption or droop time may be very short. When the CPU resets it will switch off the load that causes the problem, and the power may quickly resume the correct value.\n\nSecond, check that there is not a short in the bed wiring. You might detect that with an ohm meter. You have used two different CPU boards, to it is unlikely to be a common fault on both boards, but you might be using the same wiring.\n\nThird, check the routing of the bed heater wires to see that they are not near other wires which connect with the CPU, including thermistor wires and wires to the UI. High-current switching in the bed wires could be coupling into other wires and conducting a RESET signal to the CPU. Ideally, the heater wires will be twisted together with about 3 (or more) twists per inch, and not twisted together with other wires.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10081,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Peltier Cooler,1.726248027126092,3.071923460387521,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,Tronxy Marlin boards (two of them) reboot when asked to heat bed,\"I have two Tronxy 2.0 V5 Marlin boards that reboot whenever heat is applied to the bed. The bed has been swapped (because I thought that was the problem) for a new shiny one. The thermistors, too, of course. The same boards (both) work when the beds remain unheated (setpoint = 0 °C).\n\nAny ideas what might be causing this, or what I might do to figure it out?\n\nNote: I really have no idea which Tronxy board this is; the \"\"2.0\"\" is stenciled on the board, so that's all I can figure out. I shamefully admit I tagged it with Tronxy x1 to see if I could generate any interest, and because a \"\"Tronxy\"\" tag is not available.\n\",Mick,\"It sounds like a power-related problem. Always use an external MOSFET to drive a heated bed, and consider investing in a decent power supply. Inevitably, the Tronxy PSU will be barely adequate.\n\nEdit: I've just noticed the tronxy-x1 tag. Be aware that the stock (60 Watt) PSU for the Tronxy X1 cannot power a heated bed (the printer does not have one). Trying to do so will overload the PSU and cause an immediate reset.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n10001,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kevin,0.0,2.963858119231408,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Are SLA prints also susceptible to say microbes like FFF prints are with the microscopic flaws?,\"Say if one were to use foodsafe and or medical grade materials, would (m)SLA print be any less hazardous than one created with FFF printer, being eventually suscectible to bacteria buildup? \n\",T. M.,\"The best information I could find was this article from Formlabs about food safe 3d printing. It has a fairly detailed discussion of the different food safe requirements and the conclusion basically is that SLA prints are not food safe by default and can create conditions for mold and bacteria growth. SLA resins are toxic when uncured.\n\nThe article goes on to list a few options that can increase the food safety of printed objects. \n\n\nDipping in a food safe coating such as a food grade epoxy or polyurethane. But it does note that this may not make the object food safe as the coating may be compromised.\nMaking a mold from the 3d printed part and using the mold for food contact.\nElectroplating the printed object with metal.\nPrinting with ceramic filled resins, burning out the resin in a kiln, and glazing the part with food safe glaze.\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n10008,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CrossRoads,0.0,3.0158611934564274,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,\"Printer cover for noise abatement, cleanliness, temperature control\",\"Has anyone made a cover for their 3D printer? \nEdit: What kind of Max temperature should be allowed? From the comments, I understand the control board and power supply should be outside the enclosure. I don't see a way to have the stepper motors outside. I do have a thermocouple probe and can monitor the temperature inside the enclosure; what can the motors be allowed to go up to?\n\nI have a Migbot i3 (prusa clone), looks like it will need a 24\"\" x 24\"\" x 16\"\" cover (leaves room to put a spool on a holder inside also). I bought some 18\"\" x 24\"\" polycarbonate sheets to make a square box, but it's looking like it will be a bigger project than it was to get the printer running! I need to cut one down to 6\"\" and join it length wise to get a full 24\"\" for the top. And then print a bunch of corner blocks and drill holes for screws/nuts to secure it all together. Maybe make the front hinge up to lay on top to access the bed and the reel and the finished pieces.\n\nI'm hoping the cover will block out some of the fan and motor movement noise, and as a side benefit keep cat fur & dust out of the mechanism, and perhaps even help keep the ambient temperature a little more even. I'm not sure that ambient temperature drifting makes much difference with PLA, but ABS is allegedly sensitive to that, and perhaps other materials as well.\n\nEdit 5/25/19: Well, I went ahead built one, it's nearing completion. Found 18x24\"\" Lexan polycarbonate sheets, and printed up corner brackets from thingiverse. Top back has a 6\"\" wide space I can hinge up like the front cover to allow more airflow should things get too warm from the power supply or the 0.4mm nozzle. Have been printing PLA on a cold bed with Vertex PEI material clamped on it (waiting for WhamBam system with spring steel and PEX material, couple weeks out on delivery).\n\nWill be securing it to a base so it doesn't get knocked off the folding work bench (again). Some wood added inside for some stiffness, the Lexan is kind of wobbly in big pieces like that.\nLooking at some magnets to replace the wing nuts/screws on the front cover, they're kind awkward to undo.\n\nTaking off the Lexan protective film soon, might wait until securing to a base piece of wood is worked out. Think I have some thin OSB in the garage left over from another project. \n\nEdit 5/26/19: Printed an hour+ component with doors closed and thermocouple hanging below the LCD screen. Minimal temp rise seen, just 3-4 degreeC, with ambient room temperature also rising some as the sun rose. Printing PLA on unheated bed.\n\nAlso changed door closure to have magnets hold closed door in place, works very nice. Wing nuts worked well, but screws stuck out and were hard to open once the screws went thru the door.\n\n(not sure why these are rotated right 90 degrees, they looked fine when I cropped them on my PC)\n\n\n\n\",Rosalie W,\"If you want to have an enclosure without actually building one, you can try a server cabinet. Just take out the server racks and use it as an enclosure. And, as there are many server cabinets available, you could probably find one that suits your needs. Currently, I have my FlyingBear P902 3d printer enclosed in a server cabinet. And, although the doors and removable sides might have air gaps, you can always just tape that off (or use an insulation strip). Hope this works. \n\nYou could also look at this website: Perfect 3D printer enclosure for Prusa i3 MK3 \n\n\n \n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10176,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CrossRoads,1.726248027126092,3.856325384931162,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Printing PLA on PEX surface - is heated bed needed?,\"I have a WhamBam build system on order. A magnet attaches (glues down I think) to the Aluminium printing bed (or add a glass sheet? Separate question), then PEX material on flexible steel sheet gets slapped down for the print surface. \n\n\n\nI have been printing PLA on a cold PEI sheet from Vertex, using 4 binder clips to hold it in place vs peeling the backing off and sticking it down. The print job wants to keep heating the bed to 60 °C, I turn it down, a couple minutes into a job it cranks it back to 60 °C and I turn it down again. A few times I missed the second turn on, and the PEI has been kinda warped now (or maybe it's just the plastic over the sticky backing), and has also peeled off some surface chunks in the middle, so we've been trying to print around the damaged section. The warping has now made the PEI unusable, so I'm hoping the WhamBam arrives soon.\n\nWe've been printing for a couple of weeks now (I printed a chess set, largest has 4 cm diameter and is 10 cm tall, some pieces on blue tape, some on the PEI) and are starting to venture into our own designs.\n\nIntended project is box tops & bottoms that are ~90 mm x 65 mm x different heights with openings. We tried one on blue tape (a bottom with no openings) and ended up chiseling it off the bed with a steel putty knife (I don't recall if heat was on or not). We tried a top with openings on the PEI, missed that the heat had turned back on, but between the bed not quite level (forgot to re-check it) and the PEI being warped we killed it after the openings were printed around. It was not going to be usable, but we did print enough to be able to confirm the opening spacings (needs work still) so it was not a total loss. Came off the PEI easily (<2 mm thick when we stopped), we managed to miss the damaged parts mostly.\n\nSo the question: when the WhamBam arrives, is it better to print PLA at 60 °C, or do I keep playing the game of turning it down (and saving the waiting time of it heating up)?\n\",cmm,\"I print PLA on a PEI bed at 60°C. I have also printed PLA on an aluminum bed at 60°C with Elmer's Glue Stick for bonding, which worked better for me than PLA. I recently switched to Aqua Net Hairspray on the aluminum bed at 60°C, which also worked well.\n\nI have found no reason to avoid bed heating with PLA.\n\nIf the object is stuck too tightly on the PEI bed, you could try adding hairspray. It acts as a glue, but also as a release agent, and, being soluble in water, you can help release the object with a few water drops.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10176,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CrossRoads,1.726248027126092,3.856325384931162,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Printing PLA on PEX surface - is heated bed needed?,\"I have a WhamBam build system on order. A magnet attaches (glues down I think) to the Aluminium printing bed (or add a glass sheet? Separate question), then PEX material on flexible steel sheet gets slapped down for the print surface. \n\n\n\nI have been printing PLA on a cold PEI sheet from Vertex, using 4 binder clips to hold it in place vs peeling the backing off and sticking it down. The print job wants to keep heating the bed to 60 °C, I turn it down, a couple minutes into a job it cranks it back to 60 °C and I turn it down again. A few times I missed the second turn on, and the PEI has been kinda warped now (or maybe it's just the plastic over the sticky backing), and has also peeled off some surface chunks in the middle, so we've been trying to print around the damaged section. The warping has now made the PEI unusable, so I'm hoping the WhamBam arrives soon.\n\nWe've been printing for a couple of weeks now (I printed a chess set, largest has 4 cm diameter and is 10 cm tall, some pieces on blue tape, some on the PEI) and are starting to venture into our own designs.\n\nIntended project is box tops & bottoms that are ~90 mm x 65 mm x different heights with openings. We tried one on blue tape (a bottom with no openings) and ended up chiseling it off the bed with a steel putty knife (I don't recall if heat was on or not). We tried a top with openings on the PEI, missed that the heat had turned back on, but between the bed not quite level (forgot to re-check it) and the PEI being warped we killed it after the openings were printed around. It was not going to be usable, but we did print enough to be able to confirm the opening spacings (needs work still) so it was not a total loss. Came off the PEI easily (<2 mm thick when we stopped), we managed to miss the damaged parts mostly.\n\nSo the question: when the WhamBam arrives, is it better to print PLA at 60 °C, or do I keep playing the game of turning it down (and saving the waiting time of it heating up)?\n\",CrossRoads,\"Received and installed the WhamBam system, and it works great! Have been letting it heat to 60C, which I'm pretty sure is not making it all the way thru the magnet, flex steel plate, and the PEX surface, but parts are adhering great and pop right off the PEX just by the act of picking up the plate, even a large box bottom (~68mm x 95mm) came off so easily I thought it had lost adhesion - my wife printed several items earlier and they came off the same way. I am impressed with the system!\n\nWe had lost a blade off the hot end fan (and turns out it was 3 blades), initial prints had failed to adhere on the PEX, the PLA didn't appear to be extruding properly, and the fan irregularity was very irritating. Internet searches indicated the plastic melting temp was not accurate enough. Replaced the fan and every print since has been great.\n\nEDIT 6/14/2019 Here is a youtube clip of a freshly printed door knob (screen door latch) coming off a 60C bed, no problem!\n\n\r\n \r\n \n\nAnd a larger box, ~65 x 98mm, that popped right off.\n\n\r\n \r\n \n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n10321,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CrossRoads,1.0891412423578797,2.392932446014159,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Migbot extruder loading,\"Has anyone seen a printed bottom extruder block with a cone added to get the filament into the hole which then feeds into the metal tube that connects to the heater?\nWe have a hard time getting coiled filament lined up, the filament curves and takes a lot of twists and tries to get into the hole in the bottom plastic block, and lately we've just taken to removing the fan/heatsink at the end of the servo to guide it in my hand, which is a pain in the butt and likely to wear out screw holes or something eventually.\n\nHopefully this drawing shows what I mean. \n\nIt would be the 10th picture here, with a cone added above the hole at the lower left.\nhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:852591\n\n\n\",fred_dot_u,\"If the question is \"\"has anyone seen...\"\" my answer is yes. It's not precisely what you show in the drawings, but close enough and for the same purpose.\n\nIn the case of a Robo3D R1+ printer, replacing the stock \"\"hexagon\"\" hot end with an E3Dv6 hot end provides for a piece of PTFE tubing inserted into the heat sink. The recommendation from the denizens of the 'net is to slice the top of the tubing in the shape you have in the drawing and to have the tubing extend sufficiently to reach the junction of the hob gear and pinch roller. This took some doing, but I was able to get an appropriate taper to the tubing end that does not contact the moving parts.\n\nAs the fed-in filament exits the assembly, the small gap between the wheels and the tubing gives the filament nowhere else to go but into the heat sink and hot end.\n\nAs your design reference indicates a 3D printed part, it might be practical to engineer into that segment a larger hole to take the PTFE tubing and then size the length after the wheels are in place.\n\n\n\nThe above image shows the added PTFE tubing surrounding the filament. Even though the slightly diagonal cut appears somewhat as a cone, it is not. The edges are parallel to the rollers/hob gear. The lower portion has been omitted for ease of drawing, but would extend into a hole drilled or printed in the block holding the assembly, based on the thingiverse link provided.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10439,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CrossRoads,2.528907649931287,3.071923460387521,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Ripple in layers,\"I'm printing part for a chess board from a set on Thingiverse, expanded a little to 50 mm square.\nAfter the 3rd layer, I'm seeing what looks like raised ripples, and you can feel them with a finger too. I didn't see this when printing just 4 pieces earlier.\nPLA at ~200 °C, bed is PEX/flex steel/magnet/AL.\n\n\n\nThe initial layer also had some streakiness (?) after the 1st layer.\n\nOdd, as the bed tests out as pretty level using the paper under the nozzle test.\n\n\n\n\n\nLooking much better now that the infill is starting. Will have to look into calibrating the extruder when this print finishes. Printed a 6 hour iPhone stand yesterday, turned out really nice.\n\n\n\n\n\nTop layer is nearing done (looks like top layer is finishing, then the lip to go for the edge of the board) and all signs of the rippling are gone.\nWill check the 'level' again before we start on the light color squares.\n\n\n\",Mick,\"It looks like over-extrusion. When layers are printed with 100% infill, excess material has nowhere to go and these characteristic ripples form.\n\nAlways calibrate your extruder. 3D Hubs have a good article on the topic:\n\nHow To Calibrate, Tune and Fine Tune your printer and filament\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n10439,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CrossRoads,2.528907649931287,3.071923460387521,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Ripple in layers,\"I'm printing part for a chess board from a set on Thingiverse, expanded a little to 50 mm square.\nAfter the 3rd layer, I'm seeing what looks like raised ripples, and you can feel them with a finger too. I didn't see this when printing just 4 pieces earlier.\nPLA at ~200 °C, bed is PEX/flex steel/magnet/AL.\n\n\n\nThe initial layer also had some streakiness (?) after the 1st layer.\n\nOdd, as the bed tests out as pretty level using the paper under the nozzle test.\n\n\n\n\n\nLooking much better now that the infill is starting. Will have to look into calibrating the extruder when this print finishes. Printed a 6 hour iPhone stand yesterday, turned out really nice.\n\n\n\n\n\nTop layer is nearing done (looks like top layer is finishing, then the lip to go for the edge of the board) and all signs of the rippling are gone.\nWill check the 'level' again before we start on the light color squares.\n\n\n\",CrossRoads,\"Printing some more parts tonight. Looks like solution is better bed \"\"leveling\"\" (tramming, or basically squareness between X, Y, and Z axis). Getting it dialed in to the correct height, 1/4 turn of a bed leveling screw at a time.\n\nAlso ordered some metal (stainless steel) shims so we can get and check the bed level more accurately than \"\"this index card plus a little bit\"\" as the card measures ~0.16mm and we want 0.18mm to 0.2mm or maybe 0.22mm it seems.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n10011,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Rocket_Man,1.726248027126092,2.887737754437414,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,0.9784382375735183,Anet A8 inconsistent filament flow,\"I have been attempting to get my Anet to print for a couple months now. Haven't had a huge amount of time but when I have I've worked on it. A lot of the problems I have had I have been able to trouble shoot, for example for a while I was unable to get any filament to lay, and I have since fixed this issue. Now however my filament will extrude but it is very spacey, and not solid. I have tried re-calibrating the bed, un-clogging the extruder, and increasing the flow rate but nothing works. Is it possible that I have a bad board and that is causing my problem?\n\n[\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"The skirt looks ok, which tends to rule out the most extreme flow or blockage issues. However, skirt/bottom layer can be over-squashed so not ideal for calibration.\n\nI assume this is intended to be a 100% layer rather than infill. It looks like you're achieving about 50% infill, which is a good clue.\n\nI guessed (and confirmed in comments) that you are set for 3mm filament, but using 1.75? (I had cura default to this on me not long ago, despite printing perfectly before, and no intentional changes). One easy check would have been to try one of the provided pre-sliced models that came with the printer.\n\nThe effect of configuring for 3mm filament is to reduce flow by a factor of 3 (diameter squared), so even a 50% over extrusion still leaves you with less than half the plastic volume required.\n\nAfter fixing this, you will need to raise the Z-home position slightly to enable the first layer to extrude properly.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10011,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Rocket_Man,1.726248027126092,2.887737754437414,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,0.9784382375735183,Anet A8 inconsistent filament flow,\"I have been attempting to get my Anet to print for a couple months now. Haven't had a huge amount of time but when I have I've worked on it. A lot of the problems I have had I have been able to trouble shoot, for example for a while I was unable to get any filament to lay, and I have since fixed this issue. Now however my filament will extrude but it is very spacey, and not solid. I have tried re-calibrating the bed, un-clogging the extruder, and increasing the flow rate but nothing works. Is it possible that I have a bad board and that is causing my problem?\n\n[\n\",entropicCreator,\"I had similar issues with my A8 at first. If it did work fine and now it does not, then it is not a firmware issue. My issues were resolved when I got a new nozzle. If the tip is worn out or squished from crashing into the bed, no amount of cleaning is going to solve it. Also the filament it came with is probably extremely dusty and can easily reclog after cleaning.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10744,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Rocket_Man,1.0891412423578797,3.2230983134145625,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Marlin on Arduino Mega 2650 and RAMPS 1.4,\"I have been messing around trying to flash marlin 1.1 onto my Arduino Mega 2650 and RAMPS 1.4. I have Managed to get it to upload fine however it will not upload with the LCD I want. I am trying to upload it and have it set to a \"\"RepRap Discount Smart Controller\"\". When I uploaded the firmware it was on the stock Anet LCD, however when I try to change this in the file and verify it I get an error that I do not understand. I have done some digging on google but haven't really been able to figure out the answer. Here's the error: \n\n\nsketch\\ultralcd.cpp:4860:3: internal compiler error: Segmentation fault\n\n DEFINE_MENU_EDIT_TYPE(uint32_t, long5, ftostr5rj, 0.01f);\n\n ^\n\nPlease submit a full bug report,\n\nwith preprocessed source if appropriate.\n\nSee for instructions.\n\nlto-wrapper.exe: fatal error: C:\\Program Files\\WindowsApps\\ArduinoLLC.ArduinoIDE_1.8.21.0_x86__mdqgnx93n4wtt\\hardware\\tools\\avr/bin/avr-gcc returned 1 exit status\n\ncompilation terminated.\n\nc:/program files/windowsapps/arduinollc.arduinoide_1.8.21.0_x86__mdqgnx93n4wtt/hardware/tools/avr/bin/../lib/gcc/avr/5.4.0/../../../../avr/bin/ld.exe: error: lto-wrapper failed\n\ncollect2.exe: error: ld returned 1 exit status\n\nexit status 1\nError compiling for board Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560.\n\n\",Rocket_Man,\"Running it as admin fixed the issue. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10013,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mr Coder,0.0,3.866033035411084,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,Ender 3 first print some area is smooth but some is rough?,\"Please check following image, Dog looks smooth from left side but its rough from right side , similar on back too.\n\nWhat could have caused this ?\n\n\n\nCan it be due to moisture due to Air Conditioner in my room ?\n\n\",Mick,\"It is most likely caused by inadequate part-cooling due to poor air-flow. Fit a [better] part cooling fan. There are plenty of designs on Thingiverse.\n\nYou may also be able to resolve the issue by adjusting the printing temperature, but the easiest solution is to install a good part-cooling fan.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10013,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mr Coder,0.0,3.866033035411084,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,Ender 3 first print some area is smooth but some is rough?,\"Please check following image, Dog looks smooth from left side but its rough from right side , similar on back too.\n\nWhat could have caused this ?\n\n\n\nCan it be due to moisture due to Air Conditioner in my room ?\n\n\",Mr Coder,\"I was making following mistakes \n\na) X-axis belt needed a tightening\n( I calibrated all X,Y,Z and they were perfect)\n\nb) There was under extrusion .\n ( I had to increase number of steps per mm for extruder motor and store the setting) \n\nXYZ calibration cube was really helpful in debugging the problems .\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n10040,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,nomadic_squirrel,2.528907649931287,3.1516766269614735,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.306096197889172,Advice for 3D modeling peg for sprinkler dripper,\"I'm not really sure where to ask this question as I think it is a design question, but also a printing question. So if there is a better place to post, I'd be happy to harass someone else.\n I'm (re)designing a sprinkler manifold for a dripper system because the stupid pegs for this stupid manifold are on top of the manifold, which is a prime spot for any old postal person/dog/raindrop to break off. Of course the pegs aren't sold separately so you have to buy a whole new manifold. Seems like a great use for a 3D printer. \n\n\n\nI designed a new manifold and decided the pegs were useful in case they broke off. I was thinking having them screw in would be a better design, but for the life of me I can't get them to actually screw in after I print. \nHere is the fusion 360 file.\nThis is generally what it looks like:\n\n And here is the resulting stl file. \n\nAfter several prints, the pegs won't screw into the manifold base. I push and I turn and turn but the threads just won't bite. The 3/4\"\" pipe threads fit just fine, so I know threads can be printed, but these pegs are stubborn. \n\nI guess my question is, what's a good design for a peg thingy that needs to attach into a manifold, but also pass water? Should I try to replicate the cantilever thing they have going on, or is a screw better? Any ideas why my pegs won't screw into the base of my mushroom? This is my first attempt at 3d modeling so I'm not totally familiar with all the terminology, so any pointers there would be helpful. \nThanks!\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"If I may suggest a slight alternative: don't try to make the threads part of the 3Dprint. Instead, thicken the walls where the threads would have been, increasing the ID (inner diameter) of the hole, maybe even \"\"thread\"\" to match the outside of : metal threaded inserts. Those can be screwed in, .\nPerhaps a small \"\"T-nut\"\" (pick the size you need) would be sufficient, and you could create holes in your printed part for the penetration tips. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10040,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,nomadic_squirrel,2.528907649931287,3.1516766269614735,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.306096197889172,Advice for 3D modeling peg for sprinkler dripper,\"I'm not really sure where to ask this question as I think it is a design question, but also a printing question. So if there is a better place to post, I'd be happy to harass someone else.\n I'm (re)designing a sprinkler manifold for a dripper system because the stupid pegs for this stupid manifold are on top of the manifold, which is a prime spot for any old postal person/dog/raindrop to break off. Of course the pegs aren't sold separately so you have to buy a whole new manifold. Seems like a great use for a 3D printer. \n\n\n\nI designed a new manifold and decided the pegs were useful in case they broke off. I was thinking having them screw in would be a better design, but for the life of me I can't get them to actually screw in after I print. \nHere is the fusion 360 file.\nThis is generally what it looks like:\n\n And here is the resulting stl file. \n\nAfter several prints, the pegs won't screw into the manifold base. I push and I turn and turn but the threads just won't bite. The 3/4\"\" pipe threads fit just fine, so I know threads can be printed, but these pegs are stubborn. \n\nI guess my question is, what's a good design for a peg thingy that needs to attach into a manifold, but also pass water? Should I try to replicate the cantilever thing they have going on, or is a screw better? Any ideas why my pegs won't screw into the base of my mushroom? This is my first attempt at 3d modeling so I'm not totally familiar with all the terminology, so any pointers there would be helpful. \nThanks!\n\",nomadic_squirrel,\"With the suggestions from @R.., I played with a couple of different screw profiles that come with fusion 360, and found these settings to be helpful:\n\n\n\nAfter cutting the hole with these screw settings, I selected all the faces of the hole and off set them by -0.1 mm. Originally, I was offsetting the hole by like -0.02 mm and the peg wouldn't screw. After learning a bit about tolerances of printers, I expanded this to the .1 value and it screwed in magically! I haven't yet worked out if the pegs are water tight, so I may have to revert back to the previous thread settings that seem like they would be tighter, or maybe I'll invest in an o-ring. Suggestions welcome. \n\nThanks to everyone for their input. \n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n10041,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,JDO_420,1.726248027126092,2.717179978327238,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Dual Filament Mixer Marble Effect,\"I'm looking for some software, that could create marble effect on product from two filaments, not just gradient, but evolving color change.\n\nDo you know some slicer or some tool that can generate printer file like this from model?\n\",cmm,\"E3D has a Cyclops product which mixes two filaments inside a melt chamber. Clones of the E3D Cyclops can be found through the usual outlets. E3D also has software recommendations for using their Cyclops product, which are found here. They suggest cura as the slicer.\n\nThe RepRap firmware (and possibly others as well) allow two extruders steppers to be used in an extrusion move, proportionally mixing two filaments.\n\nIn case you want to go further, to get a broad color gamut, you will need five filaments mixed into one extrusion bead. Cyan (sky-blue), magenta (or bright purple), yellow, white, and black filament can be mixed to make most colors. \"\"2D\"\" printing is done with four colors (cyan, magenta, yellow, and black), but for 3D printing, you also need white. 2D printing uses white, but it is the white of the paper. Black is needed to get dark colors, as well as to form neutral gray colors.\n\nBased on the OPs comments, I understand that the software sought is a shader that creates a marble effect on the surface of a print. I don't know of such software, but, as a software engineer, I imagine it would take roughly this form:\n\n\nSlice the object conventionally, producing G-code for the object. Identify all exterior extrusions with a special extruder number. Multi-material slicers should provide this option (Slic3r-PE does).\nProject a 2d image or synthetic pattern onto the 3D external surface of the object.\nFor each voxel (volume pixel) of the exterior extrusion, determine what it's color should be based on the shading.\nWith previously determined propagation delay from when the mix is set to when the color is extruded, back up along the extrusion path the correct distance.\nSplit the extrusion command at the point where the mix must be changed. Insert new extrusion values.\nOutput the modified g-code.\n\n\nI've left out many implementation details.\n\nThe scheme depends on how predictable is the delay (in extrusion distance) from when the extrusion mix is changed to when the change comes out of the nozzle. The variation (if any) in that distance will make the output look jagged and fuzzy. In some ways, that variations limits the 2D bandwidth of the color information.\n\nSchemes that require sharp, line-to-line coherence may require a purging process. I assume that for a marble pattern, which I characterize as having soft color changes on a scale that is larger than the extrusion width, purging on every change is not desired or possible.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10259,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,JDO_420,1.726248027126092,2.717179978327238,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Material for printing flowerpots,\"I want to print a flowerpots, for advanced watering system.\n\nPlants are going to be eaten.\n\nWhat is the most suitable material, when we consider the fact, that we do not want to just make forms and do clay flowerpots(which may seem most healthier), but having them directly printed.\n\nWhat are the temperatures that makes plastics emit dangerous components in surrounding water, and what are those components?\n\nIs there some \"\"totally safe\"\" material out there? I was thinking of PLA or PETG, because I've already heard that ABS is not safe for edibles.\n\",cmm,\"I printed some pots for sprouting seedlings this year from PLA. A square array of pots with tiny drainage holes in the bottom.\n\nThe array filled the bed of a Prusa3d i3m3.\n\nThe seeds sprouted, except for the ground cherries, which I think failed because the seeds were bad. \n\nI had good germination rates for tomatoes and basil.\n\nAccording to the FDA, ABS is generally safe for food, although like any filament the pigment and any added chemicals may be contraindicated for continued health.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10259,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,JDO_420,1.726248027126092,2.717179978327238,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Material for printing flowerpots,\"I want to print a flowerpots, for advanced watering system.\n\nPlants are going to be eaten.\n\nWhat is the most suitable material, when we consider the fact, that we do not want to just make forms and do clay flowerpots(which may seem most healthier), but having them directly printed.\n\nWhat are the temperatures that makes plastics emit dangerous components in surrounding water, and what are those components?\n\nIs there some \"\"totally safe\"\" material out there? I was thinking of PLA or PETG, because I've already heard that ABS is not safe for edibles.\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"Given the tendancy for extrusion 3D prints to be porous, aside from any potential health/ingestion issues, I'd recommend lining your pots after printing. You could use an epoxy that's food-rated, or a thin layer of concrete, or even sheet metal if you have access to a bender (or aluminum foil, for that matter). \n\nSo far as temperature-dependent outgassing, that's not an issue unless your garden will reach temperatures over 150 Celsius :-)\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10050,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Eslam Karim,2.528907649931287,2.9816351676497708,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Weird lines and smaller height,\"I finished my first print and it came out like this\n\n \n\n \n\n\n\nI calibrated all my axis steps and manual movement gives perfect numbers.\n\nI am printing with these slicer settings: \n\n\n \n \n \n\n\nI don't even know where is the problem to begin searching for a solution. It's my very first print after a couple fails and a lot of calibration to Z axis and bed leveling.\n\nUpdate the printer without the heatbed as it's an older picture:\n\n\n\nThe Z axis moves on 2 lead screws and 2 rods with bearings all of which attached to the plate.\n\",Sava,\"I'd say that your axis aren't square, aren't tightened enough and you seem to have overextrusion as well. That would explain why all your layers are wobbly and not neatly stacked on top of each other, why your cube is far being being a cube (the picture of the X face shows it clearly) and the quality of surface finish on the top.\n\nI do not know what kind of printer you are using, but I would advise you to check that the X and Y axis are correctly calibrated and that they're perfectly square, which would ensure that each layer is correctly stacked on top of the previous one to produce a nice cube. And make sure to tighten the axles to avoid the noise in the print due to the vibration produced by the printing. \n\nAs for the overextrusion, you'll need to make more test with your printer and the material you're using, changing temperature, and print speed until you find the right combination that will extrude just enough material through your nozzle. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10055,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Fires_CZ,2.1782824847157594,3.7649394530103804,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Laser LA03-5000 wiring to RAMPS 1.4,\"I'm totally lost. I have been searching about two days how to correctly wire Blue Laser LA03-5000 to RAMPS 1.4 board. \n\nThis laser has 12 V input and separates PWM/TTL wires. I have found out how to control laser with no PWM (just hook it to D9 same as a fan), but how do I correctly wire this type of laser? I really want to wire it correctly for safety reasons. \n\n\n\",0scar,\"Please look into this question, this is a very similar question and also involves PWM and a RAMPS 1.4 shield. \n\nIn your case you connect the top red wire on the right bottom connector to the D4 pin and adjust the firmware accordingly as described in this answer.\n\nThe bottom 2 wires of the lower right connector should be connected to ground and 12 V (resp. black and red).\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10061,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mikel F,3.452496054252184,4.928832249535364,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,4.376800063013361,3.6575483220214347,Are there practical reasons to NOT use a stepper motor with lead screw for the X and or Y axes?,\"After a few months of printing with my Prusa Mk3 (with plans to get a second one soon), I have been wondering about making my third printer a home-built one was a larger print bed than the Mk3. One thing I wondered about is perfectly expressed in the title question.\n\nAre there practical reasons to not use a stepper motor with lead screw for the X and or Y axes?\n\nI am certainly happy with the GT2 belts used in my current printer, but I wonder if the design might be simpler with lead-screws on all three axes.\n\",user77232,\"It is possible to use lead screws; specifically 4 start leadscrews. The only drawback is that you need to be wary of heat.\n\nLet's breakdown the concerns\n\n\nCost. Yes it costs more than belts, and it will last longer at higher speeds, whereas a belt may stretch. If cost is a factor then stick to belts.\nSpeed. Multi start screws offer a lower pitch than single start ones. As a result you less of a turn reduction. This can bring them on part with belts. The drivers you use will determine how fast you can spin your stepper motor. Voltage mode drivers are as used in 3d printers are good at high torque at low speed (sub 1000rpm). Current mode drivers are better at high rpm (e.g. STMicro's powerStep01)\nHeat. When the lead screw heats, the metal expands. When the metal expands your positional accuracy disappears. Using a metal that has a low coefficient of thermal expansion would be best, however they may cost more.\n\n\nJust from changing the drivers you should be able to get a speed increase without needing to resort to the heavier multi start lead screw. Increasing the voltage will also help, however you would need a driver that can let you vary the holding current, otherwise the motor will heat up and burn when it is not moving.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10061,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mikel F,3.452496054252184,4.928832249535364,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,4.376800063013361,3.6575483220214347,Are there practical reasons to NOT use a stepper motor with lead screw for the X and or Y axes?,\"After a few months of printing with my Prusa Mk3 (with plans to get a second one soon), I have been wondering about making my third printer a home-built one was a larger print bed than the Mk3. One thing I wondered about is perfectly expressed in the title question.\n\nAre there practical reasons to not use a stepper motor with lead screw for the X and or Y axes?\n\nI am certainly happy with the GT2 belts used in my current printer, but I wonder if the design might be simpler with lead-screws on all three axes.\n\",Nach0z,\"I am going to answer this as someone who actually did rework their Prusa i3 fleabay clone to use leadscrews for all axes. Before digging into the matter, the backlash issue can be solved easily with spring-loaded brass nuts, kinda like how ballscrews work. That's the simplest problem to solve though as there are a lot of other issues.\n\nShort version / tl;dr\n\n\nHardware can't handle that many microsteps.\nCrosstalk and motor inductance limit speeds and acceleration.\nPrint quality suffers in really weird ways because of (2).\nLeadscrews are not made for quick movement over extended periods of time and will wear, even with grease.\nYou'll need additional bearing surfaces to prevent your motors from grinding themselves apart, and to eliminate backlash due to the flex couplings.\nThe system becomes a lot more prone to highly destructive failure modes.\n\n\nLong explanations\n\nFirst\n\nYou're going to notice is that you're constrained to horribly, horribly slow movement and acceleration rates. My screws are 8 mm screws, with 8mm pitch. That means it takes 200 steps to travel 8 mm. Multiply by 1/16th microstepping, and that's 3200 microsteps per 8 millimeter of travel. Multiply by whatever speed you're trying to print at, then the number of axes you're using, and you'll find that your RAMPS board starts to stutter on complex moves if you print fast enough.\n\nSecond\n\nYou'll quickly hit the inductance limits of your motors. At \"\"standard\"\" power levels (ones that don't fry my knockoff NEMA17 motors), even after switching to 24 V for the entire setup, the fastest I could spin my motors was about 5 revolutions per second, which translates to 16,000 microsteps per second with 8mm pitch screws. For reference that means that under ZERO load, the fastest my N17 w/ 8 mm pitch could travel, is about 40 mm/s. \n\nYou're basically running the motor coils at several kilohertz, which means you have to be really careful about keeping your wires separate and shielded to prevent crosstalk, in addition to the fact that as your step frequency goes up, your step torque goes down dramatically. Not only does this limit the weight of the bed that the motor is capable of pushing at a given speed, but you even have to worry about the inertia of the motor and bed much more than with a belt-driven system. So instead of 30 mm/s jerk with 200 mm/s2 acceleration, suddenly you're limited to, say, 5 mm/s jerk and 40 mm/s2 acceleration. \n\nAs mentioned, for best results, the whole system needs to be converted to 24 V, and not all boards are configured for this to be easily done. My cheap RAMPS clone only needed a single diode removed and everything else was fine, but YMMV in this regard. \n\nYou could solve this particular problem by gearing the motors down, but at that point you've now introduced a new source of backlash either between the gear teeth or in the belt drive system, and kinda defeated the point.\n\nThird\n\nDue to this effect, is that you run into extrusion pressure artifacts. Basically, the plastic in the nozzle is a fluid, a very viscous one, being forced through a small hole. The fluid pressure will \"\"lag\"\" somewhat behind what the extruder motor thinks is happening. \n\nThe end result is that while you're accelerating, the lines you're laying are thinner than they should be, and will be thicker than they should be while decelerating, and you tend to get weird \"\"globs\"\" on each corner when you come to a stop. For me, with a 0.4 mm nozzle, 0.8 mm line width, and 0.2 mm layer height, these artifacts actually completely offset the additional accuracy I was getting with a tightly-coupled leadscrew with spring loaded dual nuts on it. The parts ended up being even less dimensionally accurate than before, with very strange deformities. \n\nThere ARE settings you can use in the firmware to try and combat this specific effect, but the process is tedious and takes a lot of trial-and-error, and recompiling the firmware every 30 seconds is annoying, not to mention the variables are dependent on line width, speed and acceleration settings, and layer height, so you have to recompile your firmware any time you want to change the print quality. Super, super annoying.\n\nFourth\n\nLeadscrews aren't actually designed for this. The constant back-and-forth motion will wear the brass nuts and even the steel threads of the screws over time. You end up with a black powdery residue on everything underneath the screw, which, in the X axis, typically also means your print. Nobody wants steel powder messing up their layer adhesion. \n\nIn my case I used Superlube, which is a silicone/PTFE grease, to help prevent this problem, but that only works so well when you've got spring-loaded brass nuts. Eventually they push most of the lube out. Additionally, the lube tends to grab and hold any metal powder that does form, accelerating wear in areas that are still lubricated. \n\nFifth\n\nBearings. Turns out motors have internal bearings, that generally suck and aren't made for heavy loads in any direction. I found that out when my Y-axis N17 motor failed because the bearing did, and spread powder all over the coils, some of which got pushed through the enamel and shorted the wires out. \n\nAdditionally, because tiny amounts of misalignment turn motors into shrapnel in a hurry, you're almost certainly going to be using flex couplings. Flex couplings have a certain amount of yield to them axially, and are primarily designed to be under compression loads, and tend to fail when stretched repeatedly. \n\nFor the Z axis this is normally not an issue because the whole system is held down by gravity, but in the X and Y axes, you'll get some weird offsets of even a millimeter or two each time the carriage or bed switches directions. So you'll want to make sure that the motors aren't load bearing themselves, and the screw remains locked relative to the frame while still being able to rotate. \n\nYou can accomplish this by having a ring fastened to each end of the leadscrew that either pushes on a thrust bearing or rides in a regular ball bearing. Ideally, you can do both, but this turns into an expensive venture with a whole lot of brackets in odd places that you may not have space for. I ended up losing about 20 mm of bed travel solving this problem.\n\nSixth\n\nYou need to think about what happens when a component fails. For me, it was my endstops. The first failure was from the crosstalk issue I mentioned above. Y-stops triggered, bed started shifting towards the front of the printer over time, and eventually the printer started trying to move the bed through the front of the printer frame. \n\nIt was successful. \n\nThe second time was simply the endstop switch failing mechanically. Belt travel stops at the pulley. Leadscrews go all the way to the end of the screw, and because they're geared so much lower than belts are, there's a lot more torque involved. I destroyed my printer frame three separate times because of this problem, and once more when the Y-axis flex coupling snapped. This allowed the motor to spin the screw easily in one direction but not in another - which this time forced the print bed backwards instead of forwards, yanking the Y motor through its bracket and the frame again.\n\nConclusion\n\nX/Y screws are not necessarily a bad idea, simply an expensive and tedious one in 3D printing. They're much better suited to low-feedrate applications like CNC mills, mechanical engravers, and the like. You may notice that even high-accuracy applications like laser printers tend to have belt-fed carriages rather than screw-driven ones. Screws are much better suited to high load, low-speed applications, and printers tend to be the opposite of that.\n\nIf you're trying to eliminate backlash due to the belts not being tight enough, as I was, the answer is to make a better printer. I couldn't tighten the belts enough to get my prints accurate before the motors started failing, because I didn't have the motor-end pulley supported by a bearing. Start there, literally just support on either side of the pulley on the motor shaft with a small bearing braced against the frame to take the radial load off the motor. If your belts are stretching too much, use steel-core GT2 belt. If your system is overall just sloppy, build a more robust system. My current project is a Hypercube Evo, and I found a supplier that makes steel-core GT2 belt. I'm going to use that to maximize rigidity in the CoreXY belt system. The frame is made from 30x30 mm T-slot extrusions, with 12 mm Z-axis rods and 10 mm X/Y axis rods. Bigger, more expensive components that are way more robust and will flex much less than the 400 mm long 8 mm rods on my cheapo printer.\n\nHope this helps.\n(edited to get my math right on the microsteps)\n\",3.7511513460834345,2.0769199823829045\n10084,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Snowcrash,1.726248027126092,3.2043470614382206,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,0.9784382375735183,Prusa MK3 heatbed marks,\"I've got some curious marks on my heatbed.\n\nIt appears to be from my black Sunlu PLA+ (I can just feel it if I scrape my finger nail over it) but I can't scrape it off with the metal spatula.\n\nWhen I try and print over it the filament won't stick.\n\nAny suggestions as to what it is and how you get rid of it?\n\n\",Jeroen3,\"It looks like you may be a little bit too close with the nozzle. Does the first layer calibration look alright?\n\nThe steel sheet with coating is a consumable. It will get marks.\nEven with long PLA prints. However, these will slowly fade and should not interfere with print quality.\nI can still see my first benchy on my sheet.\n\nWhen you're no longer satisfied with the state of your sheet, use some acetone to clean to bed.\n\nNote: PETG will case bumps since this sticks a bit too much to IPA cleaned coating. Causing the coating to bubble on removal. These damages can fade. If not too bad. So don't clean with IPA for PETG, use window cleaner.\n\nWhat you can do is move the print around, instead of always print in the center.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10084,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Snowcrash,1.726248027126092,3.2043470614382206,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,0.9784382375735183,Prusa MK3 heatbed marks,\"I've got some curious marks on my heatbed.\n\nIt appears to be from my black Sunlu PLA+ (I can just feel it if I scrape my finger nail over it) but I can't scrape it off with the metal spatula.\n\nWhen I try and print over it the filament won't stick.\n\nAny suggestions as to what it is and how you get rid of it?\n\n\",Nach0z,\"Edit: As Trish noted, apparently Prusa printers don't ship with Buildtak stickers like the other printers I've used, so this is probably a bad idea in your specific case. For others reading this, only do the sanding shenanigans with buildtak or other stickers that you can easily replace and don't mind wearing down over time.\n\nUsed to happen to me printing PETG on Buildtak. I ended up using a medium grit sanding sponge to remove the PLA layer. Related, you might want to grab some 1k grit sandpaper for the same reason, it does a great job of freshening up your build surface once builds stop sticking well.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10132,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sara,2.528907649931287,3.191554579001479,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Set the overhang parameter in Blender 3D printing tool box,\"I'm working on a cube in Blender. I just deleted one of the faces (the top face) of the cube and added solidify to avoid non manifold edges. \n\nIn this case, when I check the design it shows that the bottom face is an overhang face (shown with yellow color). However, if I change the overhang parameter in 3D printing tool box from 45 to 90° and then check the model, it doesn't show any overhang faces and it seems that everything is okay. I don't think increasing the overhang parameter could be a good idea. However, this is my first time that I'm trying to design a model for 3D printing. Can this model with the overhang parameter equal to 90° be printed using a 3D printer? How can I fix the overhang problem in this simple model. \n\n\n\nToday I tested another simple model. I used a fill circle and added solidify to the model. Although the model is really simple, check the model shows the same as the previous design - the bottom face is an overhang face. It seems that adding solidify to a shape leads to this problem. I don't know how can I fix this problem. Changing the overhang parameter fixes the overhang problem but it seems that this not a good idea for printing models.\n\nUnfortunately, I can not test the print myself as I do not have a printer myself and I need to outsource the print job.\n\",cmm,\"You are looking at overhangs in the design tool. What matters are overhangs when printing.\n\nWhen designing the object, the coordinate system is convenient for working with the object. Before slicing, the object can be rotated and repositioned for better printing. Only after is it positioned for printing can the actual overhangs and bridges determined.\n\nUnless you wish to limit yourself to the design tools coordinate system, I wouldn't have the design tool generate support material, and I would ignore its comments about overhang angles. First, bring the object into your slicer, position it on the print bed, and only then evaluate the need for support material.\n\nTo be honest, I often have a printing strategy in mind while I am designing an object, but when the object hits the printer I sometimes completely change my plan.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10132,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sara,2.528907649931287,3.191554579001479,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Set the overhang parameter in Blender 3D printing tool box,\"I'm working on a cube in Blender. I just deleted one of the faces (the top face) of the cube and added solidify to avoid non manifold edges. \n\nIn this case, when I check the design it shows that the bottom face is an overhang face (shown with yellow color). However, if I change the overhang parameter in 3D printing tool box from 45 to 90° and then check the model, it doesn't show any overhang faces and it seems that everything is okay. I don't think increasing the overhang parameter could be a good idea. However, this is my first time that I'm trying to design a model for 3D printing. Can this model with the overhang parameter equal to 90° be printed using a 3D printer? How can I fix the overhang problem in this simple model. \n\n\n\nToday I tested another simple model. I used a fill circle and added solidify to the model. Although the model is really simple, check the model shows the same as the previous design - the bottom face is an overhang face. It seems that adding solidify to a shape leads to this problem. I don't know how can I fix this problem. Changing the overhang parameter fixes the overhang problem but it seems that this not a good idea for printing models.\n\nUnfortunately, I can not test the print myself as I do not have a printer myself and I need to outsource the print job.\n\",Mick,\"Overhangs that are substantially greater than 45° to the vertical generally require supports, and overhangs of 90° will definitely require supports, unless they are bridges (supported at both ends). Depending on how well you have your printer and filament \"\"dialled in\"\", it is possible to print overhangs up to 70° without supports. However, if your model is a simple cube, it will have no overhangs, so it doesn't really matter what value you give the overhang parameter. Supports are usually generated when the model is sliced, but some modelling software will generate supports as part of the model.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10142,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,white_ghost,1.0891412423578797,3.401230309423458,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Uploading files using Octoprint REST API,\"I'm trying to upload a file using Octoprint REST API - it seems to be possible as per the document described here, Upload file or create folder, but I can't figure it out how to do it with the Python request lib.\n\nCurrently what I'm doing is \n\n import requests\n\n def def Upload_File():\n fle={'location':\"\"j:/max.gcode\"\"}\n url='http://localhost:5000/api/files/{}'.format('local')\n payload={'select': 'true','print': 'false' }\n header={'content-type': 'multipart/form-data','X-Api-Key': 'FD550BD4DA2442BA906AD1850539D6DB' }\n response = requests.post(url, files=fle,data=payload,headers=header)\n print(response)\n\nif __name__=='__main__':\n Upload_File()\n\n\nThe response returns status is 400\n\nMy working env is:\n\n\nWindows 10 and Octoprint running on virtual environment.\n\n\",Nach0z,\"I installed octoprint locally to help debug this problem.\n\n\nYour code snippet says \"\"def def Upload_File\"\" which is a syntax error.\nIf you go into Octoprint, under Settings -> Logging, and download octoprint.log, you'll notice it says \"\"WARNING - 400 POST /api/files/local (::1): No multipart boundary supplied\"\". A quick google search led me to this StackOverflow question, which states to remove the custom content-type header to fix this problem.\nYou actually need to open() the file, and assign that value to the 'file' field in the fle object definition, not just tell it where it's currently at on your machine. Additionally, you need to provide a filename field in the fle object. \n\n\nI got your code snippet working as below, went ahead and swapped your API key back into it. You'll need to point the open() call to the actual location of your file on your hard drive, which I assume is j:/max.gcode, rather than mine which is just opening max.gcode from the running directory of the script.\n\nimport requests \n\ndef Upload_File():\n fle={'file': open('max.gcode', 'rb'), 'filename': 'max.gcode'}\n url='http://localhost:5000/api/files/{}'.format('local')\n payload={'select': 'true','print': 'false' }\n header={'X-Api-Key': 'FD550BD4DA2442BA906AD1850539D6DB' }\n response = requests.post(url, files=fle,data=payload,headers=header)\n print(response)\n\nif __name__=='__main__':\n Upload_File()\n\n\nFinally, if you're going to be doing a whole lot of REST API shenanigans with your Octoprint server, may I offer a prebuilt library?\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n10159,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,VampishWolf,1.0891412423578797,3.137850340878127,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How to create supports for the parts hanging above 45 degrees?,\"Do you have any specific process recommendations to achieve support for the parts hanging above 45 degrees, using open source software?\n\",Jeroen3,\"PrusaSlicer has support enforcers you can place on areas that need support.\n\nSee this video: Prusa Slicer Support Enforcers.\n\nAutomatic supports\n\nThere are automatic supports, in the Supports dropdown menu, select Everywhere:\n\n\n\nClick Yes in the resulting dialog:\n\n\n\nClick on the Slice icon in the bottom left:\n\n\n\nYou will end up with a lot of supports:\n\n\n\nHowever, this method generally results in too much support...\n\nCustom Suport Enforcers\n\nSo turn off Supports in the drop down menu, select None:\n\n\n\nNow, in the Print Settings tab, under Support Material, disable Auto Generated Supports and enable Generate Support Material:\n\n \n\nThen right click on the model and select Box from the Add Support Enforcer menu item:\n\n\n\nYou can move by clicking the Move button in the left hand palette, \n\n\n\nresize by clicking the Resize button\n\n\n\nand re-shape the Box as necessary, to support the difficult overhanging parts parts only. Here we can see three boxes have been added - pale blue for the previously added boxes and green for the current box:\n\n\n\nAnd a fourth final Box for the tail:\n\n\n\nNow, when you hit the Slice button, there will be much less support structure than when using Automatic supports:\n\n\n\nParts of the model that the slicer thinks still needs support will be highlighted in dark blue (such as the elbow and back of the head):\n\n\n\nAdd a cylinder support enforcer:\n\n\n\nResize and re-shape as before and move into position below the elbow:\n\n\n\nAdding a second cylinder as a support enforcer\n\n\n\nUpon hitting Slice:\n\n\n\nNow in Print Settings - Support Material - Pattern change it from Rectilinear to Rectilinear Grid:\n\n\n\nFor prints with curves and details Rectilinear Grid works better, than Rectilinear (which is fine for supporting a plain cube in the air). It is easier to break the support off the print.\n\nNow save your hard work as an AMF file:\n\n\n\nThis file maintains all of the support enforcers so that they can be modified if the actual print needs some adjustments - without having to re-add all of the support enforcers all over again.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n10171,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Rock,2.1782824847157594,3.3570615728962325,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How is E value calculated in Slic3r?,\"I want to know the math behind how Slic3r calculates E values. $E_{value}$ represents amount of filament in mm (unless volumetric extrusion is selected) that has to be fed into the hotend to obtain a road of specific extrusion width.\n\nConsider an example with following parameters: \n\n\nNozzle diameter = 0.6 mm \nLayer height = 0.35 mm \nExtrusion width = 0.61 mm (for external perimeter) \nLength of the line segment (distance of the deposition path) = 98.2 mm \nDiameter of filament = 1.75 mm\n\n\nFirst part of the question: How is $E_{value}$ calculated for this case? \n\nSecond part of the question: How is velocity of extruder motor calculated for this case?\n\nThe Slic3r manual has limited information on flow math but is not comprehensive.\n\nLet's assume volume of plastic fed in equal volume of plastic comes out\n\n$$Volume_{in} = \\pi\\times{(\\frac{d}{2})}^2 \\times E \\times x = \\frac{\\pi\\cdot d^2}{4}\\times E \\times x$$\n\nWhere, \n\n\n$d$ = diameter of the filament\n$x$ = extrusion multiplier\n$E$ = $E_{value}$ to solve for\n\n\n$$Volume_{out} = (A_{road} \\times L)$$ \n\n\nLength of path, $L$, is obtained from start and end coordinates\nArea of the road, $A_{road}$, is calculated according to this link (Slic3r flow math; Section: Extruding on top of a surface). The formula for area of the road according to Slic3r manual is:\n\n\n$$A_{road} = (w - h)\\times h + \\pi\\times{(\\frac{h}{2})}^2 $$\n\nWhere, \n\n\n$w$ = Extrusion width \n$h$ = layer height\n\n\nSeems like I am missing something. Math doesn't yield me same result as Slic3r $E$ value.\n\n\n\nMany of you have marked this question duplicate. I know the first question is similar to what has asked before (calculating E value) but the answer doesn't match actual E value in G-code. \n\nAlso there is a second question on how to calculate extrusion speed given an E value\n\nI have added G-code from actual Slic3r with the same settings as above to check the math.\n\nThe advance extrusion width settings in slic3r are as shown in the picture below:\n\nThe settings are from a Prusa config for 0.6 mm nozzle\n\nConsider a 100 mm x 100 mm x 5 mm part (X x Y x Z dimensions). Following is the output G-code from Slic3r:\n\n; generated by Slic3r 1.3.0 on 2019-06-04 at 16:36:24\n\n; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.61mm (6.55mm^3/s)\n\n; perimeters extrusion width = 0.65mm (10.54mm^3/s)\n\n; infill extrusion width = 0.70mm (15.25mm^3/s)\n\n; solid infill extrusion width = 0.65mm (8.78mm^3/s)\n\n; top infill extrusion width = 0.60mm (6.43mm^3/s)\n\n\n------ Values of parameters defined in Slic3r -------\n\n\nfirst_layer_acceleration = 1000\nfirst_layer_bed_temperature = 60\nfirst_layer_extrusion_width = 0.65\nfirst_layer_speed = 30\nfirst_layer_temperature = 215\nfirst_layer_height = 0.35\nmax_print_speed = 100\nnozzle_diameter = 0.6 \nexternal_perimeter_extrusion_width = 0.61\n\n\n------ some initialization lines above --------\n\nG1 F1800\n\nG1 X78.400 Y169.100 E8.21483 ; perimeter\n\n**G1 X78.400 Y70.900 E8.21483 ; perimeter**\n\nG1 X176.600 Y70.900 E8.21483 ; perimeter\n\nG1 X176.600 Y169.010 E8.20731 ; perimeter\n\nG1 X177.175 Y169.675 F10800.000 ; move to first perimeter point\n\n\nThe above code snippet refers to the perimeter of the very first layer in the print. Let us consider the highlighted line in above G-code. According to equations we have above, the values of the variables are:\n\n\n$d$ = 1.75\n$x$ = 1\n$E$ = $E_{value}$ to solve for\n$w$ = 0.61\n$h$ = 0.35\n$L$ = 169.100 - 70.900 = 98.2\n\n\nArea of the depositied road is:\n\n$$A_{road} = (0.61 - 0.35)\\times 0.35 + \\pi\\times{(\\frac{0.35}{2})}^2 $$\n$$A_{road} = 0.187211 mm^2 $$\n\nFor calculating $E_{value}$, We use volume equality\n\n$$Volume_{in} = Volume_{out}$$\n\n$$E_{value} = \\frac{A\\times L \\times 4} {\\pi\\times d^2 \\times x} = \\frac{0.187211 \\times 98.2 \\times 4} {\\pi \\times 1.75^2 \\times 1} = 7.6432 $$ \n\nThe $E_{value}$ in the G-code is 8.214\n\nThis is a big difference isn't it? I know about the die swell effect and expansion of molten plastic at the tip, but there seems to be no uniform compensation factor for this!\n\",0scar,\"To answer your first question:\n\nYour calculations are not wrong, they are correct for a normal layer (uncorrected) layer. These calculations should get you very near the solution. The problem is that there are default modifiers at play that modify the extrusion process which become apparent when you change them or look at the hoover hint in the advanced printer settings section. E.g. see the image below of the \"\"Print Settings\"\" graphical user interface; specifically look at the hoovering hint:\n\n\n\nThe hoovering hint tells you that there is a 200 % modifier at play. What! a default modifier without me knowing? Well...., if we had looked at the \nSlic3r Manual (The Important First Layer) a little better, we read that:\n\n\n Fatter extrusion width. The more material touching the bed, the better\n the object will adhere to it, and this can be achieved by increasing\n the extrusion width of the first layer, either by a percentage or a\n fixed amount. Any spaces between the extrusions are adjusted\n accordingly.\n \n A value of approximately 200 % is usually recommended, but note that\n the value is calculated from the layer height and so the value should\n only be set if the layer height is the highest possible. For example,\n if the layer height is 0.1 mm, and the extrusion width is set to 200 %,\n then the actual extruded width will only be 0.2 mm, which is smaller\n than the nozzle. This would cause poor flow and lead to a failed\n print. It is therefore highly recommended to combine the high first\n layer height technique recommended above with this one. Setting the\n first layer height to 0.35 mm and the first extrusion width to 200 %\n would result in a nice fat extrusion 0.65 mm wide.\n\n\nTada! There we have the modifier from the screenshot; 200 % (this is expressed as a percentage over the layer height, and causes that an additional filament scale factor bigger than 1 is at play; the $x$ in your equations).\n\nTo answer the second question:\n\nThat should be rather straight forward, you know how long the path is and at which speed the head is moving (either at constant speed, decelerating or accelerating) and how much of filament you need to deposit, at the end point all filament needs to be deposited so you can calculate how fast the extrusion needs to be to accomplish that.\n\n\n\nIf you calculate back from a volume of 8.214 mm2 and solve for unknown $w$ you see that this yields $ w = 0.65\\ mm $, and that is exactly what is stated as first layer width in your Slic3r settings; I quote:\n\n\n first_layer_extrusion_width = 0.65\n\n\n\n\nP.S. When you look into the source code of Slic3r, if you dig deep, you find that extrusion width is bound by minimum and maximum values, it could well be that that is causing the value to differ from 0.70 mm (200 % of 0.35).\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n10177,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Erhannis,3.0576060275493275,3.007463813452983,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Overhangs lift up,\"My printer is exhibiting a problem wherein it's as if the nozzle pulls up on layers. I don't think it used to do this - it seemed like it manifested after I replaced the broken x-carriage with a printed one, but I don't see how that could have caused the issue. It's possible something else I did or replaced caused it; not sure. Allow me to give an example:\n\nI'm trying to print a worm gear, with a tooth size of about 2mm. The teeth, as they appear in the stl, look kinda like\n\n ____________\n< >\n > <\n< >\n > <\n<____________>\n\n\nHowever, when printed, the edges are pulled upwards, looking more like\n\n____________\n\\ /\n_\\ /_\n\\ /\n_\\ /_\n\\ /\n \\________/\n\n\nI originally noticed the pull-up in the surface finish of flat things - there was a grid of raised bumps on the top layer, I believe corresponding to the empty points between infill walls. That wasn't an effect that mattered to me, though. The effect on the worm gear is much more significant.\n\nAnybody know why my printer is pulling up on layers, or whatever it's doing?\n\",0scar,\"If you print (overhanging/slanting) fine edges too hot with too little print part cooling, they curl up. Please increase the part cooling fan percentage or try printing with a lower hotend temperature. Another possibility is to print slower, this way the filament cools better for the same fan RPM settings (fan spends more time in the hot region).\n\n\n\nThe Simplify3d slicer website has a print quality troubleshooting section that describes the up-curl of edges, they also hint to overheating as the source of your problem.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n10182,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,lolatron,1.726248027126092,3.8850447547108047,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,What pins do I use for UART control on a RUMBA board for tmc2208?,\"I have been looking in the Marlin firmware for about an hour or two now to find what pins I should use for UART for my tmc2208 drivers and I have come up with nothing.\n\nDoes anyone know what they are or how to assign them? BTW, I am using the regular version of the RUMBA board not the RUMBA+ version.\n\nFor somereason i didn't put that i want to control my stepper motor drivers through uart they are tmc2208\n\",cmm,\"The RUMBA schematic is available on the RUMBA wiki. \n\n\n \n\n\nFrom the schematic, I see that UART3 (with +5V logic levels, not RS232) is presented on the EXP3 connector. I don't know if Marlin firmware can be controlled through a UART other than UART0, which is converted to USB through an FDDI chip. The Arduino bootloader is not expecting another UART, so you may still need to program it through the USB port (and UART0).\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n10191,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,thomasw_lrd,1.0891412423578797,2.8673070466884,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Ender 3 Random Axis Shift,\"My printer has been doing weird things lately. It used to print fine, but now it's like the Y or X axis after a certain percentage time.\nie on a 24 hour print: it got off at 5 hours\non a 42 print it got off at 16%\n\nThoughts?\n\",Mick,\"The usual suspects are overheating stepper motor drivers and over-tight belts. It can also be caused by belts coming loose in their mounts.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10191,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,thomasw_lrd,1.0891412423578797,2.8673070466884,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Ender 3 Random Axis Shift,\"My printer has been doing weird things lately. It used to print fine, but now it's like the Y or X axis after a certain percentage time.\nie on a 24 hour print: it got off at 5 hours\non a 42 print it got off at 16%\n\nThoughts?\n\",Perry Webb,\"I've had similar problems printing overnight using a computer and suspected network activity causing the problem. Energy savings settings can also cause it. I print overnight using an SD card to print the gcode file to solve the problem. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10205,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Stephane Bersier,2.528907649931287,4.236514958232934,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Convert a 3D NumPy array of voxels to an STL file,\"Given a 3D boolean array representing voxels, how can it be converted to a 3D-printer-ready file?\n\nThe end-goal I would like to achieve is to print the 3D shape that the numpy array represents (True coding for fill this voxel, False for leave it empty).\n\nFor example, the array\n\n[\n [\n [T, T, T],\n [T, F, T],\n [T, T, T]\n ],\n [\n [T, F, T],\n [F, F, F],\n [T, F, T]\n ],\n [\n [T, T, T],\n [T, F, T],\n [T, T, T]\n ]\n]\n\n\nwould encode a level-1 Menger sponge.\n\",cmm,\"I agree with the use of OpenSCAD, but since it is difficult to program in OpenSCAD, I would use SolidPython, which is a front end for OpenSCAD with the full programming capability of Python.\n\nIn the alternative, you could use any programming language to decode your arrays and generate the OpenSCAD code for the little network of cubes (or voxels).\n\nThe final possibility is to generate an STL file directly. I've helped someone do this, but we found the rules to be a little non-intuitive. We used mesh tools to check out results, both by looking for error messages, and by displaying the result to see if it looked as we intended it to look.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n10207,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Victoria,1.726248027126092,3.3916584347368426,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,How to prevent stringing with 0.25 mm nozzle?,\"When I print with a 0.4  mm nozzle I have no problem with stringing at all but because I need a more detailed print I must use a 0.25 mm nozzle.\n\nI use Ultimaker Cura and an Anycubic i3 Mega.\n\nWhat i tried so far:\n\n\nEnable/Disable Z hop\nTried different retraction distance and speed.\nTried with lower temperature\nDifferent wall thickness\n\n\nIf you have any suggestion please let me know.\n\",R..,\"First, you should change the nozzle diameter setting, not just the line width setting, in Cura. Both are involved in determining extrusion. Line width can be less than or greater than nozzle size, but setting it much larger or smaller is not going to work well.\n\nI suspect your main problem, though, is print speed. The area of the 0.25 mm nozzle orifice is only 39% of the area of an 0.4 mm nozzle orifice, bounding the material extrusion rate at best at 39% of what you could get with the larger nozzle (in practice it will be even lower due to complex fluid dynamics, probably much lower), but at the same linear print speed with narrower lines, you'll be extruding (or trying to extrude) 62.5% as much material per unit time. Now, if that much material can't actually make it out of the nozzle, pressure builds up between the extruder gear and the nozzle, and stringing is the result.\n\nSo, try lowering the print speed. A lot at first. If that solves the problem, gradually increase it until you find the limit. Increasing retraction and temperature may help you push it a little further. See my question and self-answer on stringing with flexible filaments, which might give you some ideas on other things to try:\n\nAvoiding stringing with flexible filament\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10207,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Victoria,1.726248027126092,3.3916584347368426,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,How to prevent stringing with 0.25 mm nozzle?,\"When I print with a 0.4  mm nozzle I have no problem with stringing at all but because I need a more detailed print I must use a 0.25 mm nozzle.\n\nI use Ultimaker Cura and an Anycubic i3 Mega.\n\nWhat i tried so far:\n\n\nEnable/Disable Z hop\nTried different retraction distance and speed.\nTried with lower temperature\nDifferent wall thickness\n\n\nIf you have any suggestion please let me know.\n\",user1282931,\"What worked well for me in avoiding stringing is to increase the travel move speeds significantly, disable Z-hop and to decrease printing temperature\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10208,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user16708,2.528907649931287,3.4647280758287264,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Change hotend thermistor input in Marlin,\"I have a Marlin driven Prusa i3 clone, by accident I cut through both thermistor wires for the hotend while it was powered on. The Arduino reset and the hotend thermistor no longer work.\n\nSince there is a spare thermistor input on the RAMPS board I was wondering if I can change the input pin assigned to the hotend thermistor in the software? I've looked around (the code and the internet) and so far have only found out how to assign the thermistor type for the spare input, not how to tell Marlin to make temp_sensor_2 be the input used for the hotend?\n\nIf anyone could help me figure out how to change the hotend thermistor input number I would be greatly appreciative!\n\",0scar,\"In pins_RAMPS.h you find which pins are used for which thermistor:\n\n\n//\n// Temperature Sensors\n//\n#define TEMP_0_PIN 13 // Analog Input\n#define TEMP_1_PIN 15 // Analog Input\n\n\nTo use the other thermistor, you would need to swap the numbers:\n\n\n//\n// Temperature Sensors\n//\n#define TEMP_0_PIN 15 // Analog Input\n#define TEMP_1_PIN 13 // Analog Input\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10209,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ty Hayes,2.1782824847157594,3.304391138419485,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Wanhao i3 stops printing after about 40 minutes,\"I have a Monoprice Maker Select V2.1 (rebadged Wanhao Di3) with a microswiss all metal hot-end and machined lever and extruder plate. It had been printing very consistently for months with this set up - through 5 or 6 kg of filament - until a couple of weeks ago when it has started to under-extrude and then stop partway into a print, after about 30-40 minutes. It seems to clog and grind the filament, skipping steps. I first assumed this was heat-creep, and so disassembled the extruder, cleaned the heatsink and applied new thermal paste before reassembling, but to no luck. I also tried new fans on the cold-end but this didn't help either.\n\nOther things I have tried:\n\n\nvarious models - point at which the extruding stops seems based on length of time printing, not z position, suggesting to me that it is not an wires/electronics issue or an issue with the file.\nvarious layer heights\nvarious temperatures\ndust filter\nvarious filaments (changing reels of similar filament, different colours and brands, although all PLA)\ncleaned, and subsequently replaced extruder gear to rule out wear to that\ninserted washer under lever spring to add tension\nclearing the nozzle (cleaning filament, atomic pulls and drill-bit)\n\n\nI've now run out of ideas of what could be causing the issue and what to try. What other issues could cause the above symptoms or, if it is heat-creep, how else could I solve the issue?\n\",Perry Webb,\"Have you checked your computers power saving settings, the USB port setting in particular, to see if your computer is turning off the USB port, the hard drive, or some other hardware vital to printing?\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10209,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ty Hayes,2.1782824847157594,3.304391138419485,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Wanhao i3 stops printing after about 40 minutes,\"I have a Monoprice Maker Select V2.1 (rebadged Wanhao Di3) with a microswiss all metal hot-end and machined lever and extruder plate. It had been printing very consistently for months with this set up - through 5 or 6 kg of filament - until a couple of weeks ago when it has started to under-extrude and then stop partway into a print, after about 30-40 minutes. It seems to clog and grind the filament, skipping steps. I first assumed this was heat-creep, and so disassembled the extruder, cleaned the heatsink and applied new thermal paste before reassembling, but to no luck. I also tried new fans on the cold-end but this didn't help either.\n\nOther things I have tried:\n\n\nvarious models - point at which the extruding stops seems based on length of time printing, not z position, suggesting to me that it is not an wires/electronics issue or an issue with the file.\nvarious layer heights\nvarious temperatures\ndust filter\nvarious filaments (changing reels of similar filament, different colours and brands, although all PLA)\ncleaned, and subsequently replaced extruder gear to rule out wear to that\ninserted washer under lever spring to add tension\nclearing the nozzle (cleaning filament, atomic pulls and drill-bit)\n\n\nI've now run out of ideas of what could be causing the issue and what to try. What other issues could cause the above symptoms or, if it is heat-creep, how else could I solve the issue?\n\",Ty Hayes,\"The nozzle was not seated properly\n\nHaving failed to identify the problem with my current mods installed on the printer, I decided to remove everything and return the printer to factory condition to identify the problems. In particular this included replacing the all-metal hotend, and I took the opportunity to replace the insulation on the heater block too. \n\nOn removing the insulation from around my heater block, I discovered a mass of burned-on plastic that had oozed out from around the thread of the nozzle and collected under the insulation, showing that it clearly was not screwed in tight enough. After thoroughly cleaning out the heater block, replacing the insulation and reinstalling the nozzle - and ensuring it was tightly seated against the tube - I have been able to print without issue. \n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n10219,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ryanrocksforever,1.726248027126092,2.6202374972039784,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,How to add extruder to RAMBo Mini,\"I have given up on getting the RUMBA board to work. I tried to add a P.I.N.D.A. (or PINDA) probe, but that didn’t work. I tried to add a BLTouch sensor, but that didn’t work either. Now the RUMBA board is not communicating with my PC. \n\nSo I have moved on to using a Mini-Rambo but the one drawback is that it only has one extruder capability. I would like to know if there is any way to add an extruder to the Mini-Rambo. Whether it be a separate board or soldering or something. I am open to anything.\n\",Greenonline,\"I would say that the clue is in the name, MiniRAMBo. The Mini part is related to its diminutive size and reduced functionality.\n\nExtending the board would require patching in a secondary board to the MiniRAMBo board via pins1 that may or may not exist, and would probably be more trouble than it is worth.\n\nLooking at the board layout certainly shows that there are not any readily available connections for such an expansion.\n\n\n\nIf you want two extruders then the RAMBo would be a better bet, as it has 5 stepper motor driver outputs. It would certainly be easier, and quicker (as well as cheaper) than a MiniRAMBo plus a secondary daughter board).\n\nThat said, as the MiniRAMBo has two Z-axis controllers, it may be possible to repurpose one of them, if they are wired independently of each other and separately controllable. Although these lines suggest otherwise:\n\n\n It has 4 stepper drivers and 4 mosfet switched outputs.\n\n\nand \n\n\n Differences from Rambo\n \n MiniRambo has:\n \n \n 4 stepper drivers vs. 5\n \n\n\nand \n\n\n Motor Drivers\n \n 4 A4982 1/16th microstep motor drivers(2 connectors on Z for Prusa\n Mendel and other dual Z printer designs)\n\n\nSo, it would appear that the two Z axis drivers are wired together.\n\n\n\n1 By pins, I mean external board pins/connectors - rather than the pins of the µController itself\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10224,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Roel Van de Paar,0.0,3.2230983134145625,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,3D Printers imported from China - avoiding asbestos exposure,\"Many 3D printers are made in China, and as asbestos is still legal in China (with large ongoing production it seems).\n\nIt is thus quite possible to end up with a 3D Printer that has asbestos parts in it.\n\nEven though asbestos is illegal in some parts of the world (like Australia, though not the USA as far as I know), given the above, and the possible lack of care by suppliers and/or oversights during imports, one may want to do due diligence.\n\nThis becomes even more important if you plan to make modifications to your printer. \n\nWhen speaking with even large producers, you may also get very conflicting answers (\"\"yes part xyz has asbestos in it\"\" vs \"\"no it does not\"\") - which further complicates the matter.\n\nAsbestos testing is usually about 50-70 USD per sample, and often destruction of the tested item is necessary, so that is not a viable way either.\n\nThere are also heating elements used in printers which may be shielded with asbestos containing materials (as asbestos has good heat resistance properties).\n\nHow to avoid asbestos exposure with a high degree of certitude?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"\n How to avoid asbestos exposure with a high degree of certitude?\n\n\nIf you're not willing to do asbestos testing yourself and can't trust your suppliers either, then this is impossible.\n\nThat said, for most of the components on a 3D printer it is easy to verify they're asbestos-free (I've never seen a steel linear shaft containing asbestos). For the remaining components, you may be able to pick an alternative which you know to be safe, for instance an all-metal hotend without insulating tape, or a heated bed that's plain FR4 without insulation. If there are any components that you distrust specifically (such as a heater cartridge) you should source that from a trusted supplier.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10226,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,skryshtafovych,1.0891412423578797,3.1093304690984147,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How to connect BLTouch sensor to Alunar M508 using LSEE 3D v1.0 board?,\"In the process of updating my printer (Alunar M508), I decided to add \"\"Auto Bed Leveling\"\" using a BLTouch sensor. After doing a lot of Googling:\n\n\nI found firmware that will upload and work with printer in default configuration (without BLTouch)\nAdding BLTouch configuration, the software compiles and updates the printer, I see all new options in menu and BLTouch on \"\"power on\"\" does a self test. \n\n\nI know I have configured the power to the device correctly 2 power sources and ground but where I'm having issues is in identifying Servo0 and ZMax/Min on my board. So far the black and white wire are connected to Z axis \"\"end stop\"\" but I cannot identify where to connect the orange signal wire to. I cannot find pinout anywhere of this board.\n\n\",0scar,\"The LSEE 3D is basically a RAMPS board (your linked source also shows that the used MOTHERBOARD is a RAMPS board: #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB), this implies that all pins of your board are the same as a RAMPS board. To connect the 3 pin header of the BLTouch sensor you need to connect the red wire to +5 V and the black wire to ground; the orange wire needs to be connected to an available PWM pin. As the LSEE board does not have many exposed (free) pins for you to use, you need to re-use one of the existing PWM pins that you do not use. An example is the pin nr. 2. From the pins_RAMPS.h file you see in the limit switches section:\n\n\n//\n// Limit Switches\n//\n#define X_MIN_PIN 3\n#ifndef X_MAX_PIN\n #define X_MAX_PIN 2\n#endif\n\nIt appears, from the image, that your board does have max limit end stop switches header pins available. What you could do is use the X_MAX_PIN for the BLTouch sensor.\n\nThis implies that you need to assign the servo pin to pin nr. 2.\n\nFrom the servos section of the same pins_RAMPS.h file you see that the servos are either connected to pin 7 or pin 11 (depending on the board, your linked sources use the 1.4 version). \n\n\n//\n// Servos\n//\n#ifdef IS_RAMPS_13\n #define SERVO0_PIN 7 // RAMPS_13 // Will conflict with BTN_EN2 on LCD_I2C_VIKI\n#else\n #define SERVO0_PIN 11\n#endif\n\nUsing the linked sources, the 11 should be replaced with a 2. This implies that you can connect the orange wire to the \"\"signal\"\" pin of the X_MAX end stop connector.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n10236,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ForgottenKahz,1.0891412423578797,2.7905764474501265,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How do I concave an image to create a 3D file for use in a 3D printer?,\"How can I print an embossed image in a concaved shape?\n\nLike a big saucer. I will use this an a mold for a project.\n\nSo far I've found lots of software with huge spread of features. It's sort of overwhelming. There is lots of ways to create images into 3D printable objects but to add the extra step and concaving that image is harder to find out.\n\nHow would you do it? I'm open to suggestions.\n\nI'm new to 3D printing and would really appreciate the help.\n\",0scar,\"What you describe, sounds like you want to create a lithophane; a pattern etched or engraved on a thin translucent base material (in your case a bowl) that can only be seen clearly when backlit with a light source behind it. Apparently you want to use it for another purpose.\n\nSpecial software and or scripts that transform the image to the base material exist. An example is e.g. this sphere which becomes a globe when lit from the inside. Recommending a tool for creating such bowl is a little out of scope as these types of questions become outdated very quickly as technology changes or tools cease to exist. With the provided information you should be able to find software that is able to provide what you want to do.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10719,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ForgottenKahz,0.0,2.729972460763979,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Chalk objects: 3D Printed or Molds?,\"I am thinking about making something from chalk. But can chalk be printed into shapes directly or is it better to shape it with printed molds? What kind of material would be suitable for a mold for the chalk so I can ensure the mold releases after the chalk solution cures?\n\",Trish,\"Chalk, as a ceramic substance, could be printed with a paste printer and if the substance can hold its shape during drying for a couple of hours.\n\nIt might be easier to use a flexible filament like TPE or TPU to print a mold in which the paste can cure slowly to a point it can be safely removed. These filaments make release easier as one can flex them away from the printed object.\n\nAnother option could be vapor smoothed ABS and a tapered shape so that the object has no undercuts and easy paths only. If one adds a pusher rod place, which is closed by a plug during casting the chalk and can remove from the back after casting, removal gets easier as air can flow in from the back through the removed plug. It can also be used to use a pen or similar obect to gently release the item with light taps.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10244,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kayvon,2.1782824847157594,3.4291679796504773,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,\"What does nozzle size affect besides line width in, e.g., Ultimaker Cura?\",\"The Ultimaker Cura documentation says\n\n\n Tip: If you use an unavailable third party nozzle size, set the line\n width to equal the nozzle size.\n\n\nI sliced an object with a 0.3 mm line width. When the nozzle size is 0.4 mm, the results are almost the same as when the nozzle is 0.3 mm. The filament usage is slightly different and the gcode files have similar, but different, coordinates throughout.\n\nWhat does nozzle size really do besides suggest the line width?\n\",R..,\"Searching the CuraEngine source, the only places I can find where nozzle size is used directly involve some arcane logic for merging of infill lines, such as:\n\nhttps://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/blob/05e93dabce9e863b8742fd69ed87717e1594e7a9/src/MergeInfillLines.cpp#L124\n\nSo essentially, yes, nozzle size mainly serves as a default value for the line width settings.\n\nHowever, in general it's not always possible for line width different from nozzle size to be honored.\n\n\nFor line widths smaller than the nozzle, motion along a path where the material being deposited has proper adhesion is required to stretch the material and prevent it from retaining the width extruded from the nozzle, and small lines already printed are likely to be damaged by the nozzle when attempting to print additional small lines in their vicinity. In particular, you won't be able to print small details significantly below the nozzle size just by extruding less material.\nFor line widths larger than the nozzle, compression against an existing surface is required to prevent the extra material from just sagging down rather than expanding horizontally. In particular, line widths wider than the nozzle are unlikely to work right in the presence of overhangs.\n\n\nAlso, as noted by Tim Kuipers in comments, there are places outside the source, but rather in the json-based configuration tree, where nozzle size plays a role in the defaults and warning ranges for other parameters. Those are mostly line widths, but\n\n\n The nozzle size can affect the values of the following settings besides line width in fdmprinter.def.json: Outer Wall Inset, Outer Wall Wipe Distance and Minimum Support XY Distance. Other than that it only influences the conditions under which setting-values give you a warning.\n\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n10250,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user77232,1.0891412423578797,2.9268557087492164,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,0.7766301205685938,Are large format prints more brittle?,\"Recently on one of her videos a YouTuber stated that prints from large format printers are more brittle than if you were to print them in parts and glue them together. This seems to contradict the testimonials from the customers of a large format printer, who say that they get good prints from those printers (which print have a print area of a meter square). \n\nWould a print form a larger format printer be more brittle than a print made of smaller pieces super glued together?\n\n(with all other aspects being equal e.g. the nozzle, the temps, the material and the shape of the object).\n\nThe YouTube didn't cite any source information to back up her claim.\n\",0scar,\"If you break up a large piece into multiple smaller pieces and properly glue them together, you basically add stiffeners (as a result of printing walls). This could lead to a more stiff model; this might have been confused by calling large prints more brittle opposed to constructed models.\n\nIf printing is conducted at similar conditions on large printers, there shouldn't be a reason why the model becomes more brittle unless the conditions aren't the same. But that would be true for printing at small printers too, e.g. if one print was printed in a draft.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n10250,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user77232,1.0891412423578797,2.9268557087492164,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,0.7766301205685938,Are large format prints more brittle?,\"Recently on one of her videos a YouTuber stated that prints from large format printers are more brittle than if you were to print them in parts and glue them together. This seems to contradict the testimonials from the customers of a large format printer, who say that they get good prints from those printers (which print have a print area of a meter square). \n\nWould a print form a larger format printer be more brittle than a print made of smaller pieces super glued together?\n\n(with all other aspects being equal e.g. the nozzle, the temps, the material and the shape of the object).\n\nThe YouTube didn't cite any source information to back up her claim.\n\",CarlH,\"I'd recommend getting the object to fit together by design, rather than glue - though I tend (if the item is never to be disassembled) use Zap-a-gap - that stuff sticks like crazy though you must not squeeze the parts together but let it naturally sit.\n\",-1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10272,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user77232,2.8153892694839717,4.490224283436976,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.859356439026359,Should I include fillets on my 3d printed parts?,\"A fillet is like a rounded corner but on the inside of the corner.\n\n\n\nDoes it make a difference (structurally) to use fillets on a 3d printed part?\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"If your part needs structural support, then the word is: absolutely. Fillets provide the added support when you need it. If your part has a meeting line which is sharp - 90° (or perpendicular), there is a natural stress riser in your design. This is a weak spot where a crack can form. If strength is needed and the fillet won't interfere with the design, it's definitely something you should include with your part. \n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n10272,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user77232,2.8153892694839717,4.490224283436976,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.859356439026359,Should I include fillets on my 3d printed parts?,\"A fillet is like a rounded corner but on the inside of the corner.\n\n\n\nDoes it make a difference (structurally) to use fillets on a 3d printed part?\n\",jpa,\"Fillets in X-Y plane (i.e. between two vertical surfaces) work great for 3D prints and increase the strength a lot. They usually also improve the print quality, because the print head can keep a constant speed in the curve instead of slowing down to a sharp corner.\n\nHowever fillets that extend in Z direction (i.e. between a vertical and a horizontal surface) suffer from layer artifacts. Sometimes they can look worse than a sharp corner would. While they do still increase the strength significantly, they are not as strong as similarly sized fillets in X-Y plane are.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n10594,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user77232,2.1782824847157594,3.3416816473626416,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,\"Infill keeps \"\"shoveling\"\", but perimeters are fine\",\"While printing PET-G (@ 220 °C nozzle and over 58 °C bed temperature), the outlines always print fine but the infill keeps shoveling. Could I be printing too hot or too cold? I am using a 0.8 mm nozzle. \n\nShoveling is when the plastic is over extruding to the point at which it starts piling up in the path of the nozzle, usually resulting in an uneven surface. Visually, it manifests like a snow plow shoveling snow. I tried adding an image, but, the filament is black so that turned out to be a difficult task.\n\nThis reason why this is a problem is because the nozzle hits those peaks while printing, which seems to be causing the print to detach from the bed. I've also noticed the print curling up at the edges, but I think that's a separate problem.\n\nI am printing at 3000 mm/min. The outline, and the infill is 80 % of that. The layer height is 0.6 mm\n\",R..,\"Normally, what you're calling shoveling is caused by having the bed too high - when you deposit enough material for a space that should be the nominal layer height high, but significantly less volume is available, it has nowhere to go but up around the edges of the nozzle.\n\nHowever, in your case your temperatures are also seriously wrong for PETG. The normal recommended range of nozzle temperature for PETG is 230-250 °C, and in my experience, you need the full 250 °C to have any hope of printing fast. At 220 °C I'm really surprised you're not having problems with underextrusion instead.\n\nThe bed temperature is likely even more important. Minimum bed temperature for PETG is 80 °C. If the material is hitting a 58 °C bed as it comes out, it's likely to cool way too fast. This may lead to what you call shoveling (especially if you see both pits and ridges rather than just ridges), but even if not, it's going to prevent the material from bonding to previously laid down lines, so that your print will end up more brittle than PLA.\n\nOne additional detail I initially missed involves your 0.8 mm nozzle. It might be hard for the hotend to keep up with properly melting that much PETG at normal print speeds. As noted in the comments, a 50 mm/s linear extrusion rate with an 0.8 mm nozzle is equivalent, in volumetric extrusion rate, to a 200 mm/s linear extrusion rate with a typical 0.4 mm nozzle, which would be extremely fast for PETG. It's unlikely that any hotend except a \"\"volcano\"\" or similar (with extended melt zone length) could keep up with raising that much material to 250 °C that quickly.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n10623,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user77232,1.726248027126092,2.9075761835826794,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Can the resin from Resin based 3D printers be used to make printed circuit boards?,\"Do the properties of 3D printer resin allow it to stick to copper clad surfaces when cured? I am interested in turning my filament based 3D printer into a photo plotter with a laser that can cure a thin layer of resin coated onto a copper surface.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Brushed aluminum is a common bed surface for resin based printers. The aspect of the aluminum that is important to the print is the adhesion, hence the roughness of brushed aluminum. It has to be sufficient to hold the print in place, but not so extreme as to cause destruction on removal.\n\nIn the case of copper as a print surface, one would certainly want some mechanical adhesion in the form of surface roughness. You've not specified the forces that would be applied to the copper once cured. If you do not plan to manipulate the copper surface in an excessive manner, it's likely that it would adhere. It's also just as likely to pop free if the plate or surface is flexed. I've seen no reference online to copper coated print beds. This would lead me to believe that it was tested and rejected as suitable for 3D printing, but not necessarily unsuitable for your purposes.\n\nThis is one of those situations where testing is warranted and not particularly difficult to accomplish. You can purchase UV curing resin, build a tin to hold the copper surface and pour the expected layer thickness. Leave it in the sun and let nature's UV do the curing.\n\nConsider if you have not yet done so to research safety practice for handling this substance. Wear gloves and eye protection, cover any exposed skin surfaces and have good ventilation.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n10765,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user77232,1.0891412423578797,2.6202374972039784,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Can 3d printers be operated at voltages above 24 volts?,\"Going from 12V electronics to 24V produces a reduction in the overall amount of heat generated in the electronics (that are not intended to get hot). These include the motors, drivers, mosfets and pcb traces.\n\nWhy then given that 48V power supplies and electronic components cost exactly the same as their 24v counterparts, are there no 48V 3d printers?\n\nIs there a saftey aspect to 48V that needs to be considered? \n\nEDIT: Yes 48V fans cost a little more but it's not exorbitant. It seems odd to move from 12 to 24 to get half as much heat, when you could move from 12 to 48v and get a quarter as much heat.\n\",Perplexed Dipole,\"I believe the main issue is the voltage regulators and capacitors on your standard print main board are not rated for 48V. You can find some CNC shields that can handle up to 36V but these are lacking 3d printer features such as heater ports and only have 4 stepper slots. \n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n10844,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user77232,2.528907649931287,3.171906017490645,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Show Build date and time in Marlin 2.0,\"Is there a command to show the compile date and time of the Marlin 2.0 firmware? Also, is there a way to show this info at boot up?\n\",Ives,\"You can show the compile date and time during bootup by changing the constant STRING_SPLASH_LINE2 in Configuration.h:\n\n#define STRING_SPLASH_LINE2 __DATE__ \"\" \"\" __TIME__\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n10870,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user77232,1.0891412423578797,2.9547933789762357,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Can linear guide rails be joined?,\"Take the standard Hiwin rail, as commonly used in 3D printers:\n\n\n\nThey come in a max length of 2500 mm. Let's say I need twice that. If I connect two rails together end to end (as a \"\"butt joint\"\") and just bolt them into place, will it work as though it was one 5000 mm rail? Or are we limited to whatever lengths the manufacturers put out.\n\",user77232,\"The answer is yes; and it's a normal thing to do.\n\nhttps://www.igus.com/info/linear-guides-butting-rails-together\n\n\n\nBasically you should only do it with rails from the same manufacturer and you might have to file the mating surfaces, but butting them is altogether trivial. This method works with Drylin and UHMW-PE bearing surfaces as recirculating balls could get caught in the small gap that is left behind. This would cause the carriage to \"\"jump\"\" as it passes over the joint.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n11178,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user77232,2.528907649931287,3.2106547363557154,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.878685800062712,What are the pros and cons of using a BL Touch in place of a limit switch?,\"This is about practicality. I'm hearing that people are using their BL Touch not to adjust the Z offset, but as the limit switch for the machine! Why is this so? What are the pros and cons of using a BL Touch (or any touch sensor for that matter) in lieu of a physical limit switch?\n\n(NB: I'm looking for objective reasons, where no other solution will do as opposed to personal preference reasons where people just like to use it).\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"There's cost.\nOr it might be fragility -- there is a little overshoot, i.e. the time between when the Z-stop sensor(whatever type) indicates zero is reached and when the stepper motor actually shuts down. The standard lever-switch has plenty of flexibility and \"\"give\"\" but the BL Touch may not, and may be damaged if the gantry tries to move a couple hundred microns past \"\"true\"\" zero before stopping. I would be cautious, depending on your budget, about trying it out. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11178,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user77232,2.528907649931287,3.2106547363557154,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.878685800062712,What are the pros and cons of using a BL Touch in place of a limit switch?,\"This is about practicality. I'm hearing that people are using their BL Touch not to adjust the Z offset, but as the limit switch for the machine! Why is this so? What are the pros and cons of using a BL Touch (or any touch sensor for that matter) in lieu of a physical limit switch?\n\n(NB: I'm looking for objective reasons, where no other solution will do as opposed to personal preference reasons where people just like to use it).\n\",0scar,\"Touch sensors (or inductive or capacitive sensors) are generally used to probe the bed to determine the bed shape. For metallic beds that are not perfectly straight this works excellent. But, if your bed is straight and level (e.g. when you are using a straight slate of glass), you do not need to probe the surface as it is level. Instead you can use the probe to determine the Z level.\n\n\nPros for a limit lever switch are:\n\n\nsimple and cheap mechanical switch\nno firmware changes necessary\nno or few soldering\nalready present on most bought printers\n\n\n\nCons for a limit lever switch are:\n\n\nneeds fine adjustments counter part to work optimally \nsomething can get in between the lever and counter part\nit doesn't look cool\n\n\n\nPros for a more sophisticated sensor:\n\n\nit looks cool\neverybody is using it so it must be good\n\n\n\nCons for a more sophisticated sensor:\n\n\nexpensive and complicated sensor\nrequires firmware changes (e.g. sensor offset value)\nrequires soldering, or connecting more cables\ninductive and capacitive sensor work usually better at a higher voltage\nhigher chance of malfunctioning (more parts and electronics)\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n11240,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user77232,2.1782824847157594,3.0241567845277415,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,CoreXY Carriage moves on the Y when moving the X,\"I have a custom designed and built CoreXY printer. I have noticed that when I order the X to move from one side to the other (right to left) that the Y axis moves back about 0.6 mm as well. When I move the X back (from left to right) the Y also moves forward approximately the same amount. \n\nWhat property of the CoreXY system could be causing this? Note, I am using 608 bearings instead of toothed idler pulleys; which I hope to rectify soon.\n\nSteps per mm from the Marlin configuration.h:\n\nDEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 475.79, 482.87, 468.66, 188.1 }\n\n\nNote, they are not the same for X and Y. This is because I am trying to run a calibration cube test on the machine.\n\",0scar,\"For a CoreXY printer to move an axis (X or Y) it requires both stepper motors to turn. If both turn the same direction (at the same speed with the same pulleys), the X-axis will move, if they rotate both in a different direction (at the same speed with the same pulleys) the Y axis will move (see image of CoreXY kinematics below). Rotation of a single stepper would cause a 45° printing pattern.\n\n\n\nAll four corner points (two top pulleys and two bottom steppers) are fixed to the CoreXY frame\n\nIt is therefore highly illogical that you need to use different values for your steps per mm (X = 475.79 steps/mm, Y = 482.87 steps/mm). If you need to use such values, this implies that your mechanical layout/mechanics is/are incorrect (skew frame, different pulley diameters, slip on pulley, incorrect tension of belts, etc.). It is advised to make them equal and check the mechanical layout and inspect all parts (pulley diameters) and make the tension equal (e.g. using a Belt Tension Gauge). If the head still moves in the perpendicular direction as commanded, you could try to calibrate from there.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n11433,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user77232,1.0891412423578797,2.3045027946466967,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,\"In Fusion360, how do I align components according to their a midplane?\",\"In Fusion360, how do I align components according to their a midplane?\n\nI have 2 complex objects. They have no midpoint defined (is that even possible). How do I align them according to their mid points?\n\",Trish,\"There are several ways to lock items together.\n\nDesigned in position\n\nWhen you design the parts from the base up, you should lock the very first sketch to the origin in some way or another. Fusion shows this by making any \"\"well defined\"\" line as black in contrast to blue, like shown here:\n\n\n\nUsing Components\n\nOnce you have bodies, you can pretty much move them around in the timeflow. You then can start to define them as components. Let's assume we have these parts, a bolt, and a part into which it hinges. Of course, these two are modeled \"\"in place\"\" but that hasn't to be:\n\n\n\nNow, we want to lock them together... well, first, let's start and put them into components! Highlight one, then choose the \"\"new component\"\" command, and make sure it stays highlighted, from bodies is chosen then hit enter.\n\n\n\nRepeat for the other part, so your tree should show 2 components now.\n\n\n\nCombine Components as modeled\n\nNow we want to combine them as modeled, right? Ok, let's do that, it's easy! get out the dropdown from the combine menu and press combine as modeled (Ctrl + J)\n\n\n\nNow, click both components and at first it will start to shake the screen, having chosen \"\"Stiff\"\" combination. This means the parts don't shift one against the other. If you had them in the right position in the first place, they will stay that way. But there are other ways, which are in the menu that popped up:\n\n\n\nIf for example, I choose \"\"rotation\"\", I can choose a rotation center by placing a node as seen here:\n\n\n\nCreating Joints between Components\n\nNow, what if the components are not in position like the bolt is in the wrong position entirely? Well, start with components, as shown above, then we'll see:\n\n\n\nNow, we should use the joint function:\n\n\n\nChoose the first Component, then seek the point which face-position (or for cylinders: position on centerline) shall be the first component's joint-point shall be. For our part, let's take the big part's hole. Click the face, then choose one of the available points. For cylinders that's the ends and the center, for faces, it's the corners, center points of the edges and the center. If you hit the possible alignment points in the first place, it skips the second click to choose it. Once that is done, the body turns transparent.\n\n\n\n\nRepeat the same process for part 2 and the magic starts: Both parts suddenly move till the alignment points are in the same position, the screen shakes and BAM! We are at stiff joint again! The menu changes and we can start to define offsets!\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10264,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Benoit,2.1782824847157594,2.7425302054574083,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Possible causes of print defects?,\"I'd like some advice regarding defects on my print :\n\n\n\n\nHere some details :\n\n\nPrinter CR-10 S, nozzle 0.4\nMaterial PLA\nBed 60, Hotend 215, 50 mm/s speed\nSLiced with cura 4.1, 5 walls (i can provide more detail of the profile if needed)\nLayer height 0.1\nmodeled on fusion 360\nThe surface where the defect sits is actually tilted 45 degres\n\n\nThanks !\n\",cmm,\"This could be a problem with the filament rather than the printer.\n\nIf the filament contains air bubbles, they will heat and pressurize. The additional pressure can increase the flow rate for a moment as the molten material in front of the bubble is expelled. The flow rate decreases after the bubble pops through the nozzle because the now-empty space needs to be filled by the extruder pressing new filament into the melt zone.\n\nIf this is happening, you might hear little pops.\n\nAlternatively, the filament may have absorbed water, which can convert to steam and explode out the nozzle like a bubble would. \n\nDrying filament isn't hard. I use my household oven at it's lowest temperature, which is typically about 160 degrees Farenheit. This is high enough to slightly soften PLA, so don't go any high than you must. Bake the filament for an hour, let it cool before handling it and try again.\n\nThe filament may not be quite as round after baking, but the cross-sectional area shouldn't change.\n\nIf the problem is from bubbles, there isn't anything you can do to fix it. If it is from water, you can fix the filament. I'd suggest baking the filament and seeing if anything changes.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10264,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Benoit,2.1782824847157594,2.7425302054574083,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Possible causes of print defects?,\"I'd like some advice regarding defects on my print :\n\n\n\n\nHere some details :\n\n\nPrinter CR-10 S, nozzle 0.4\nMaterial PLA\nBed 60, Hotend 215, 50 mm/s speed\nSLiced with cura 4.1, 5 walls (i can provide more detail of the profile if needed)\nLayer height 0.1\nmodeled on fusion 360\nThe surface where the defect sits is actually tilted 45 degres\n\n\nThanks !\n\",Mick,\"There are many possible causes for printing defects, but the easiest one to eliminate is dirt. Always use a filament cleaner to prevent dirt from entering the extruder. There are plenty of designs available on Thingiverse. Always keep your nozzle clean. After pre-heating mine, I clean it (carefully) with a folded paper kitchen towel. It may also be worthwhile doing a \"\"cold pull\"\", if you suspect that you have dirt in your nozzle. Finally, you should check that filament is not leaking out between the nozzle and the heater block.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10271,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,wha7ever,1.726248027126092,4.507430220259686,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Should I cooldown before shutdown?,\"I am working with Ender 3 Pro and in menu it has an option to cooldown. Is there any need to cooldown 3D printer before shutdown or can I just shutdown without cooldown? \n\",0scar,\"That option you are referring to, is meant to manually shut down power to the heated bed and hotend, there is no timed cool down period other than you timing it. This is a handy option if you fiddled with either the bed or the hotend; e.g. to insert new filament.\n\nA cool down period can be very useful depending on the printer. Those cold-end cooling fans usually are very noisy, so people cut them of (that is not always possible/wise, but is being done out there), disable them after printing or shutting down power of the printer as a whole. Some type of hotends are prone to have heat creep up the hotend and soften the filament so that it can clog up the hotend. I've seen this happen on Ultimaker printers where the cooling fan was not spinning because some fine strings where sucked up.\n\nTo minimize the noise level of such cold end cooling fans you can put them on a relay switch and have e.g. OctoPrint schedule the print to be on for e.g. 2 minutes after a print failed or finished, works perfectly, and then you have your cooling down schedule/period.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10271,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,wha7ever,1.726248027126092,4.507430220259686,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Should I cooldown before shutdown?,\"I am working with Ender 3 Pro and in menu it has an option to cooldown. Is there any need to cooldown 3D printer before shutdown or can I just shutdown without cooldown? \n\",Perplexed Dipole,\"Depending on what material you print it it most likely a good idea to let the hotend cool down before shutting off the printer (fan). \n\nFor example if you shut down the printer right after you print a PLA part, at 190 - 220 degrees Celsius, your hot end will still be that hot and will suffer heat creep without the fan running. The next time you fire up your printer the hotend will be jammed and you will need to clear it before starting a print. \n\nThis is obviously situation dependent but in most cases you should let your hot end get below the TG (glass transition temperature) of the material before turning off the printer.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n10288,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,wha7ever,1.726248027126092,4.848287887940097,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,4.091740895605862,2.8378735685093597,\"How to work with PETG? Settings, caveats, etc\",\"We've been doing some printing with PETG filament on Ender 3 Pro printer and the result were awful:\n\n\nHere are settings we used:\n\n\nExtruder: 240 °C\nBed: ~70 °C (± 10 °C)\nSpeed: 80 mm/sec\n\n\nThere are a few types of problems that we had:\n\n\nInitially filament did not stick to the bed - those 3 items in the middle of the picture are example of this issue. This got fixed by increasing temperature of bed to 80 °C.\nAt some point a piece would get dis-attached from the bed and would move around together with the extruder around - two prints in the upper right corner of the picture were cancelled for this reason.\nModels are very rough, like a cheaply made snowball - that tiny model in the upper left is suppose to be a cattle-bell. Could you tell?\n\n\nAdditional info\n\nFilament that we used indicated\n\n\nextruder temperature 230-240 °C\nprinting speed 40-90 mm/sec\nno info about bed temperature \n\n\nQuestion(s):\n\n\nWhat are some optimal, tried and tested options for printing PETG? (Temperatures, speed, etc)\nWhat are some caveats/difficulties of working with PETG to look out for? (For example, I've read that PETG likes slower speeds. Is that true?)\nIs it possible that the model of 3D printer does not work well with this type of filament? (I don't have much experience printing so I can't know)\n\n\",wha7ever,\"The real problem was that I damaged the nozzle (most likely while cleaning it) in a way that increased the size of the hole. So, too little filament was coming out of too big of a hole, which caused such poor models. Replacing the nozzle fixed the problem.\n\nI do not remember the settings of the top of my head. Generally advised settings for PETG (whatever they were) worked fine.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n10288,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,wha7ever,1.726248027126092,4.848287887940097,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,4.091740895605862,2.8378735685093597,\"How to work with PETG? Settings, caveats, etc\",\"We've been doing some printing with PETG filament on Ender 3 Pro printer and the result were awful:\n\n\nHere are settings we used:\n\n\nExtruder: 240 °C\nBed: ~70 °C (± 10 °C)\nSpeed: 80 mm/sec\n\n\nThere are a few types of problems that we had:\n\n\nInitially filament did not stick to the bed - those 3 items in the middle of the picture are example of this issue. This got fixed by increasing temperature of bed to 80 °C.\nAt some point a piece would get dis-attached from the bed and would move around together with the extruder around - two prints in the upper right corner of the picture were cancelled for this reason.\nModels are very rough, like a cheaply made snowball - that tiny model in the upper left is suppose to be a cattle-bell. Could you tell?\n\n\nAdditional info\n\nFilament that we used indicated\n\n\nextruder temperature 230-240 °C\nprinting speed 40-90 mm/sec\nno info about bed temperature \n\n\nQuestion(s):\n\n\nWhat are some optimal, tried and tested options for printing PETG? (Temperatures, speed, etc)\nWhat are some caveats/difficulties of working with PETG to look out for? (For example, I've read that PETG likes slower speeds. Is that true?)\nIs it possible that the model of 3D printer does not work well with this type of filament? (I don't have much experience printing so I can't know)\n\n\",user3541860,\"55 mm per second is the highest I would go with PETG.\nCleaning the nozzle more often helps.\nAlso check your PID for the nozzle temp, it could be inconsistent and PETG can be very finicky with temperature.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10284,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tony,1.0891412423578797,3.5148268665696674,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Monoprice printer: no files found on SD card,\"My monoprice printer was working; I then tried to format the SD card on a Mac, then it stopped working. I have now tried three different SD cards after formatting on a Windows PC, and still nothing works. Are there supposed to be files on the SD card itself like some kind of root files?\n\",Mick,\"I've no idea why 3D printers don't like SD cards formatted by operating system utilities, but they don't. Use SD Memory Card Formatter to format your memory cards. Unfortunately, you have probably lost any data that was on the original SD card.\n\nThe SD cards that are supplied with 3D printers typically contain documentation, test files, and device drivers. However, these files do not need to be present for the correct operation of the printer. All that is needed is a correctly-formatted SD card containing the G-code files that you want to print.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10294,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Alan John,1.726248027126092,3.2877657568844505,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How to make menus more responsive in Marlin 1.1.9,\"I have an AM8 with an MKS GEN 1.4 board with a Bowden extruder at the moment.\n\nWhat I would like to do is to make my menus a bit more responsive, similar to what the guy at Lokster Space has done with ver 1.1.5 of Marlin with a tutorial how to do so. I've been through the file ultralcd.cpp but nothing matches what the tutorial is telling you to change.\n\nThe following link is the details for the upgrade: How to make the Marlin menus more responsive on Anet A8\n\nCould anyone please help with my situation.\n\",0scar,\"Supposedly, it's no longer necessary in a recent Marlin version, already the inline bool handle_adc_keypad() function from ultralcd.cpp has implemented a smaller (100 ms) time delay. You could lower the value of #define ADC_MIN_KEY_DELAY 100 to #define ADC_MIN_KEY_DELAY 50 to see if that has any effect.\n\nAlso, look for next_button_update_ms = now + 300; (4 instances) which employs a 300 ms time delay after buttons are pressed. Try lowering the 300 ms time delay.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10298,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,she hates me,1.0891412423578797,3.70361087347315,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.551027839747059,How to avoid nozzle from hitting the model?,\"When printing objects higher than approximately 8-10 cm, sometimes nozzle hits the printed model and knocks over it. After 7-8 hours of printing that's really annoying. I'm using Creality Ender 3 Pro with Ultimaker Cura. How can I avoid this problem?\n\nAs a note; it happens with thick, wide models without support structure too. I'm using Ender 3 Pro's stock magnetic bed.\n\nHere are some photos of printed model.\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nI use Esun PLA+, the part was on baseplate without any loss of contact. It was like one layer missed its coordinates and then all corrupted.\n\nI think it's not related with bed adhesion because for example for this model, it didn't knock over the model.\n\nThere is no roof for the model, I think it doesn't need any support structure. Here you can see the expected finished one: \n\n\n\",Timm,\"There are options in Cura to avoid that the extruder hovers over printed parts when traveling. There is also an option to lift Z axis while traveling. Those options are hidden by default. You can only enable them in advanced settings mode.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10298,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,she hates me,1.0891412423578797,3.70361087347315,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.551027839747059,How to avoid nozzle from hitting the model?,\"When printing objects higher than approximately 8-10 cm, sometimes nozzle hits the printed model and knocks over it. After 7-8 hours of printing that's really annoying. I'm using Creality Ender 3 Pro with Ultimaker Cura. How can I avoid this problem?\n\nAs a note; it happens with thick, wide models without support structure too. I'm using Ender 3 Pro's stock magnetic bed.\n\nHere are some photos of printed model.\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nI use Esun PLA+, the part was on baseplate without any loss of contact. It was like one layer missed its coordinates and then all corrupted.\n\nI think it's not related with bed adhesion because for example for this model, it didn't knock over the model.\n\nThere is no roof for the model, I think it doesn't need any support structure. Here you can see the expected finished one: \n\n\n\",she hates me,\"It seems the problem was because of Z-axis leveling (level of the X-axis), I found out that the right side was more than 3-4 mm below the left side when the Z-axis height exceeds around 8-10 cm. Below 8-10 cm, the two sides were even. I calibrated the X-axis by turning the eccentric nuts of the wheels and tighten them. I will try printing soon with some test objects.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n10390,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,she hates me,2.1782824847157594,2.887737754437414,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How to solve spillage problem?,\"I've done calibration test with \"\"Concentric circle test\"\" (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11895) and at specific points there are little bumped points on the print. Also Thingiverse page of the test mentions about these.\n\nHow can I solve this problem?\n\nMy printer is Creality Ender 3 Pro, I use Esun PLA+ with 210 celcius extruder and 60 celcius bed temperature.\n\nHere is the printed object, both are same print, just took photo on different base.\n\n\n\n\n\",R..,\"It looks like you have the bed adjusted too high, smashing the layers together and causing \"\"elephant foot\"\" not just on the bed but also on features - the rings - near the bottom of the print. You might also have over-extrusion, due to an increased material flow setting, actual filament diameter greater than the setting in the slicer, or miscalibration of the E axis steps per mm.\n\nFrom the second image, it looks like you might have another problem: I think I'm seeing infill lines through the gaps between the rings, rather than seeing top-surface skin in the bottom of the grooves. If so, this is a bug in Cura's default settings where \"\"skin\"\" in narrow regions is completely lost due to \"\"preshrink\"\". The skin preshrink values should be set no larger than the nozzle/line width, possibly zero, and skin expansion can be lowered by the same amount or more as long as it remains greater than or equal to the preshrink value. If my assessment of what I'm seeing is correct, fixing it should result in the grooves being supported properly rather than resting on infill lines.\n\nWhat you're seeing is definitely not normal or expected from this printer. Here's what you should be seeing:\n\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n10390,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,she hates me,2.1782824847157594,2.887737754437414,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How to solve spillage problem?,\"I've done calibration test with \"\"Concentric circle test\"\" (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11895) and at specific points there are little bumped points on the print. Also Thingiverse page of the test mentions about these.\n\nHow can I solve this problem?\n\nMy printer is Creality Ender 3 Pro, I use Esun PLA+ with 210 celcius extruder and 60 celcius bed temperature.\n\nHere is the printed object, both are same print, just took photo on different base.\n\n\n\n\n\",CrossRoads,\"We had some prints like that recently. Turns out it was caused by the bed not being \"\"level\"\" or \"\"trammed\"\". Basically the nozzle was too far off the bed when printing started for the first layer. Check yours - a piece of paper should slide between the nozzle and the bed surface, with a little bit of resistance. If it slides freely, the bed needs to be raised some. Check it at the corners and in the middle of the bed.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10403,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,she hates me,1.0891412423578797,2.5245875148292196,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Fixing uplifted magnetic heatbed surface,\"When trying calibration prints, I printed something with 240 celcius on magnetic heatbed and when removing the object, because it sticked very hard on surface, it uplifted surface of magnetic bed.\n\nSo when printing first layers, nozzle touches the bed when it's passing on that points.\n\nIs there any way to fix this? I'm thinking about ironing the magnetic bed but not sure.\n\",cmm,\"The Ender 3 Pro bed looks like a sheet of steel with a stick-on plastic sheet. If the steel plate is bent, you would probably be happier to buy another one. If the plastic film has lifted off the bed, you might be happier to buy a new plate, although there are sheets of film with adhesive available.\n\nIf you are printing small objects, you can plate them other than in the center.\n\nIf the problem is that the central bump screws up auto-leveling, try ironing while you are waiting for the new one to arrive.\n\nI looked on the Creality site but did not find listings for spare parts. You may need to be a customer to see that part of the catalog.\n\nIroning it might work. The adhesive is probably good for 110 C. I say that because the specs for the Prusa3D bed are similar. I looked up the 3M product used for the PEI surface and found that the adhesive was the limiting factor at 110 C. The PEI was good for a higher temperature. If ironing doesn't work, buy another one. If ironing does, come back and answer your own question so the information is preserved.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10299,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Peter_from_NYC,1.0891412423578797,2.541486592782186,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Must I start over if I change a dimension in Fusion 360,\"As a newbie, I have done some Fusion 360 tutorials and recognize I made a mistake in the initial dimensions.\n\nAside from starting the entire sketch over again, can I just modify the (beginning) rectangle dimension?\n\",0scar,\"If you enabled the history, you can easily go back in time and change the dimension in the sketch and then go back where you were. It would be even more elegant if you do not use fixed valued dimensions in the sketch, you can use parameters you define yourself and assign them to certain dimensions to create parametric designs. These values can be changed at any time to see your final design adapt to those changed parameters.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10303,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,StLuke5,0.0,3.3519732380519804,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Which 3D filament is 100% (or close to being so) food safe and non toxic?,\"I've recently bought myself a preassembled Prusa i3 MK3S printed and made my first projects. One of them was making a cup with my name on it. I want to use it to drink tea, water etc. I know, however, that I need to chose my filament wisely, as using the wrong one might be unsafe. I know that PLA for example is Polylactic acid which is a safe substance and occurs naturally in our body. Another thing is the dye, which can is a chemical substance I know nothing about. Do You recommend any specific type/model? Thanks.\n\",cmm,\"Answer was moved to this question: Which are the food-safe materials and how do I recognize them?\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n10303,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,StLuke5,0.0,3.3519732380519804,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Which 3D filament is 100% (or close to being so) food safe and non toxic?,\"I've recently bought myself a preassembled Prusa i3 MK3S printed and made my first projects. One of them was making a cup with my name on it. I want to use it to drink tea, water etc. I know, however, that I need to chose my filament wisely, as using the wrong one might be unsafe. I know that PLA for example is Polylactic acid which is a safe substance and occurs naturally in our body. Another thing is the dye, which can is a chemical substance I know nothing about. Do You recommend any specific type/model? Thanks.\n\",naps1saps,\"I think this site will answer some questions about food safe 3D printing: 12 Vital Facts About Food Safe 3D Printing\n\nPLA is not a good choice for hot substances because it will deform at hot water temperatures which is no good for a cup (very dangerous!)\n\nI would recommend a filament like PETG, PETE, HDPE, and LDPE: What Plastics Are Approved for Food Contact Applications?\n\nThose types of plastic require very high printing temperatures and an all metal hot end. You don't want PTFE in your hot end when printing at those temperatures (265 °C) as it will emit toxic gasses.\n\nI've seen food safe filaments for sale so it might be best to search Google for one of them to use.\n\nPlease keep in mind that printing anything will cause voids and gaps that will allow bacteria to grow. Personally I don't think I would want to risk it for daily use items but a coffee/tea cup might be alright. This is covered in the first link.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10347,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,StLuke5,2.1782824847157594,3.8803411081274333,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Prusa i3 MK3S 3D printer PETG printing problems,\"I am using a new Prusa i3 MK3S 3D printer kit. I print lots of things using PLA and PETG. \n\nAfter a week of great performance I noticed that when printing some objects with PETG filament I often encountered a problem when there's intense stringing, infill gaps, artifacts, the object sometimes detaches from the plate. I use the Prusa Slicer and Cura and print with the temperature 230/90 °C, speed max. 300 %.This problem occurs rather regardless of which infill methods I choose. I see this problem more often when printing models sliced with Cura. Sometimes everything goes fine, but most of the time I need to stop the print due to the model collapsing, detaching from the surface, its parts collapsing due to infill gaps. The printer sometimes makes some 'clicking, cracking' sounds when printing with PETG. My filaments come from Fiberology.\n\nSurprisingly, I have run the selftest, XYZ, Z calibrations and all the other ones without any errors. The wizard told me that the axes are perpendicular and it gave me congratulations. All the other tests went nearly perfect as well. \n\nI do not encounter any problems using PLA, just with PETG. I try to maintain the filament properly (keep it away from moisture, in a closed box). Sometimes (rarely) I get crashes. The filament often builds up on the hotend and I remove it.\n\nI do not know what to do, the build went very well and there are no errors, even though I am a new user and this is my very first 3D printer. I have searched the web and I haven't found people reporting this exact same thing.\n\nCould You help me? What can I do to improve the quality of the prints, perhaps maintain PETG better (maybe I'm doing something wrong) and most importantly, solve the problem? \n\",cmm,\"You might try printing with Prusa's recommended settings. They tend to be hotter and slower than I expected.\n\nI have made several pet-G prints with the same machine you have. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10347,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,StLuke5,2.1782824847157594,3.8803411081274333,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Prusa i3 MK3S 3D printer PETG printing problems,\"I am using a new Prusa i3 MK3S 3D printer kit. I print lots of things using PLA and PETG. \n\nAfter a week of great performance I noticed that when printing some objects with PETG filament I often encountered a problem when there's intense stringing, infill gaps, artifacts, the object sometimes detaches from the plate. I use the Prusa Slicer and Cura and print with the temperature 230/90 °C, speed max. 300 %.This problem occurs rather regardless of which infill methods I choose. I see this problem more often when printing models sliced with Cura. Sometimes everything goes fine, but most of the time I need to stop the print due to the model collapsing, detaching from the surface, its parts collapsing due to infill gaps. The printer sometimes makes some 'clicking, cracking' sounds when printing with PETG. My filaments come from Fiberology.\n\nSurprisingly, I have run the selftest, XYZ, Z calibrations and all the other ones without any errors. The wizard told me that the axes are perpendicular and it gave me congratulations. All the other tests went nearly perfect as well. \n\nI do not encounter any problems using PLA, just with PETG. I try to maintain the filament properly (keep it away from moisture, in a closed box). Sometimes (rarely) I get crashes. The filament often builds up on the hotend and I remove it.\n\nI do not know what to do, the build went very well and there are no errors, even though I am a new user and this is my very first 3D printer. I have searched the web and I haven't found people reporting this exact same thing.\n\nCould You help me? What can I do to improve the quality of the prints, perhaps maintain PETG better (maybe I'm doing something wrong) and most importantly, solve the problem? \n\",R..,\"230 °C is way too cool for PETG and will result in underextrusion unless you print really slow, and poor bonding. Underextrusion in turn leads to stringing because of pressure build-up. I print PETG at 250 °C.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n10349,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,StLuke5,4.255155677057378,5.621056812989414,3.507933925167123,4.670422881206417,4.240216107868139,4.041914086904412,Do 3D printers really reach 50 micron (0.05 mm) accuracy?,\"I've always been wondering about the actual accuracy of 3D printing devices. When looking for the perfect machine to buy, I looked at the speed, price, filaments supported etc, but also accuracy. I once asked somebody who could give me some advice on what to look at. \n\nOne of the things I was told about was that many printers don't necessarily have that crazy precision of 0.05 mm (50 micron). Another person told me something different - he said most of those printers actually were capable of putting out 50 micron layer height. How is it really? \n\nAnother thing is that the official slicers for those machines also claim that this precision is real, for instance the PrusaSlicer v2.0. \n\nThere are many high-end, very expensive machines and even they sometimes claim their resolution is worse than 50 microns.\n\",R..,\"There's not a simple answer to this question, or if there is, it's \"\"no\"\". However the situation is a lot more complicated. When printer specs cite accuracy like this, they're usually basing the claim on the nominal size of the smallest movements on each axis by one \"\"microstep\"\" of the stepper motors. There's a great article on Hackaday explaining the how this affects accuracy: How Accurate is Microstepping Really.\n\nAt the mechanical positioning level - putting the print head where it needs to be to extrude the material with the desired accuracy - you have at least these factors limiting your accuracy:\n\n\nMicrosteps are generally spaced roughly monotonically between whole steps, but do not necessarily divide the whole step into even portions. How well they do is a matter of the stepper drivers your printer's controller board uses. Generally, microsteps are 1/16 of a step (although there are drivers with 1/8, 1/32, or even 1/256, maybe others too), so if you see a rated accuracy of 0.05 mm, a whole step, which might be the minimum you can get reliable accuracy from, is likely 0.8 mm.\nStepper motors are deflected slightly - up to 2 whole steps but less than one step is more likely if they're not overloaded - under load. So are belts. How much this affects you depends on the design of the printer and how much mass each axis is moving. Direct drive extruders are much worse in this regard. Delta printers are probably best in it.\n\n\nThese can be mitigated somewhat, with tradeoffs, by using stepper motors with more steps per rotation, better stepper driver chips, reduction with gears, etc.\n\nOn top of that, you also have extrusion and properties of the print material limiting your accuracy:\n\n\nThe extruder motor is subject to the same accuracy issues as the positioning ones. If you extrude too much or too little material anywhere, you'll necessarily have accuracy issues. You can compute them based on the cross-sectional area of filament, size of extruder gear, extruder motor step and microstep size, etc.\nIf the filament diameter is not perfectly consistent, you'll also extrude too much or too little material.\nIf material is not cooled or kept warm appropriately as it's extruded (this varies by material), it will sag, warp, or curl, ending up in a different place from where you wanted it.\nThe more you vary the ratio between nozzle/extrusion width and layer height from an ideal ratio, the more the shape of the extruded material paths will differ from the model you're trying to print. With thick layers especially they'll become rounded rather than near-flat along the walls.\n\n\nIn theory, a lot of these issues probably could be mitigated a lot better than they are now just by better slicing - the logic that happens on a computer to convert the original 3D model into instructions for where to extrude material.\n\nWith all that said, you can get pretty amazing accuracy still, especially with a good or well-tuned so-so printer. On my cheap Ender 3, after dealing with some issues now and then that made glaringly obvious problems, I can get dimensional accuracy within 0.1 mm in the X and Y directions, at least for some models. So I think it's very plausible that a better, or better-tuned, printer could get 0.05 mm accuracy.\n\",3.6340916038470805,2.0769199823829045\n10349,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,StLuke5,4.255155677057378,5.621056812989414,3.507933925167123,4.670422881206417,4.240216107868139,4.041914086904412,Do 3D printers really reach 50 micron (0.05 mm) accuracy?,\"I've always been wondering about the actual accuracy of 3D printing devices. When looking for the perfect machine to buy, I looked at the speed, price, filaments supported etc, but also accuracy. I once asked somebody who could give me some advice on what to look at. \n\nOne of the things I was told about was that many printers don't necessarily have that crazy precision of 0.05 mm (50 micron). Another person told me something different - he said most of those printers actually were capable of putting out 50 micron layer height. How is it really? \n\nAnother thing is that the official slicers for those machines also claim that this precision is real, for instance the PrusaSlicer v2.0. \n\nThere are many high-end, very expensive machines and even they sometimes claim their resolution is worse than 50 microns.\n\",Dmitry Grigoryev,\"A resolution (sometimes called \"\"accuracy\"\" for marketing purposes) of 0.05 mm means that if you produce a bunch of 10 mm dice and a bunch of 10.05 mm dice, then the 10.05 mm ones will be statistically larger. Note that dice don't have to actually be anywhere near 10 mm, nor does a random die from the 10.05 mm pile have to be larger than a random die from the 10 mm pile.\n\nA repeatability (aka \"\"repeat accuracy\"\") of 0.05 mm means that in the experiment above every die from the 10.05 mm pile have to be larger than every die from the 10 mm pile. Note that your dice still don't have to be anywhere near actual 10 mm.\n\nA precision (aka trueness) of 0.05 mm means that in the experiment above the average size of a 10 mm die should be within 9.975..10.025 mm. Note that individual dice don't have to be within that interval.\n\nFinally, the general accuracy (as defined in ISO 5725) of 0.05 mm means that every 10 mm die should be within 9.975..10.025 mm.\n\nTo sum it up, the statement from your question is true for the \"\"commercial accuracy\"\", but not for the general definition of accuracy. For example here is an article comparing accuracy of 3D printers in dental applications (so we're talking high-end machines), with average accuracy ranging from 0,05 to 0,1 mm and absolute accuracy in range of 0,11 to 0,17 mm. \n\",3.0411126502294303,0.0\n10375,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,StLuke5,2.528907649931287,4.567057541924511,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.4319460411998994,Is there a way to print with ABS without enclosure?,\"ABS is a very strong material, but it also has some downsides. One of them, which is the necessity of having a printer with enclosure, completely discouraged me from using it, as it would be a waste of money. This is quite sad, because I cannot make prints that will be able to withstand a large load of tension without breaking. \n\nIs there any way to print ABS without any enclosure? Maybe there are several types of this material and some are easier to print?\n\",cmm,\"I print ABS in my basement in an unenclosed Prusa3D i3m3s, just as I print other filaments. Perhaps an enclosure would be helpful, but I don't have problems as it is. Your experience may vary.\n\nBefore that I printed ABS on a large home-brew delta machine. No problems related to lack of enclosure.\n\nBefore that I printed ABS on a Thing-o-Matic, also with no problems.\n\nI'm not saying that every print was perfect, but in the first two (chronologically) cases, the enclosure was not the largest contributor to print artifacts.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10375,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,StLuke5,2.528907649931287,4.567057541924511,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.4319460411998994,Is there a way to print with ABS without enclosure?,\"ABS is a very strong material, but it also has some downsides. One of them, which is the necessity of having a printer with enclosure, completely discouraged me from using it, as it would be a waste of money. This is quite sad, because I cannot make prints that will be able to withstand a large load of tension without breaking. \n\nIs there any way to print ABS without any enclosure? Maybe there are several types of this material and some are easier to print?\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"There is no requirement for an enclosure when printing ABS. Like many things in FDM, there are improvements to be made, but there is a scale of what is possible.\n\nA heated bed is much more necessary (for similar reasons, the thermal expansion is significant and without a heated bed you have very high risk of warping).\n\nAn enclosure is important for high quality, large ABS prints. Otherwise, a warm location which is free of drafts will be fine, particularly for parts which are only a few cm high.\n\nIf you're not using an enclosure, the part cooling fan should probably not be used to print ABS. You should also be aware that ABS tends to generate more noticeable fumes than PLA (although this varies with product, and how sensitive you are).\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n10546,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,StLuke5,1.726248027126092,3.079570220207228,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,PET-G under-extrusion after changing the nozzle to a 1.2 mm d. one (Prusa i3 mk3s and PrusaSlicer v2.0),\"PET-G is the main filament I use. I can achieve high quality of my prints with my Prusa i3 mk3s printer. Recently however, I've recently changed my nozzle from the default 0.4mm to the 1.2mm. I watched the online video tutorial on how to do it properly and did the whole process carefully. \n\nTemperature: 250 °C/100 °C\nSpeed: max 200 %, but results are the same even all the higher ones .\nLayer height: 0.35 mm\n\nWith my first print (and the next ones too) on the new nozzle I noticed lots of under-extrusion with infill (holes). LOTS of stringing although I've increased retraction. What's the reason ? \n\",Nach0z,\"Piecing this answer together from the comments on OP's post.\nMyself and R.. noted that a layer height of 0.35 mm, nozzle width of 1.2 mm, and a fairly high feedrate (200 % according to OP, no reference to what 100 % is), is an exceptionally large amount of plastic to try and melt through almost any hotend on the market except possibly the Volcano, or the high-throughput version of the Mosquito. \n\nOP responded that lowering the layer height to 0.2 mm seemed to fix the issue. That's still an impressive amount of plastic, but it's a 43 % decrease in total flow compared to 0.35 mm layer height. \n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n10840,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,StLuke5,2.1782824847157594,3.178518415635008,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,Does acid dissolve PETG 3D prints?,\"I want to print a lemon squeezer and I would prefer to use PET-G. I don't know if it is safe to use, because lemons contain lots of citric acid. Does it dissolve PETG? I haven't found an answer anywhere on the Internet. There are generally few things that dissolve PETG. These are aromatic compounds like toluene, phenol etc.\n\nI know my model will be food safe, as PETG is food safe, I'm using one without a dye and my nozzle is made out of steel, not brass. I think bacteria growth inside little gaps/between layers is impossible, because the citric acid is quite strong and will kill nearly all of the germs.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"According to kmac-plastics, PETG is stable at temperatures below 50°C specifically for citric acid (also acetic acid) and others on the linked list. It is also safe with diesel oil and many alcohols. The list is illuminating with respect to the variation of tested compounds.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n10840,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,StLuke5,2.1782824847157594,3.178518415635008,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.3995491493854546,Does acid dissolve PETG 3D prints?,\"I want to print a lemon squeezer and I would prefer to use PET-G. I don't know if it is safe to use, because lemons contain lots of citric acid. Does it dissolve PETG? I haven't found an answer anywhere on the Internet. There are generally few things that dissolve PETG. These are aromatic compounds like toluene, phenol etc.\n\nI know my model will be food safe, as PETG is food safe, I'm using one without a dye and my nozzle is made out of steel, not brass. I think bacteria growth inside little gaps/between layers is impossible, because the citric acid is quite strong and will kill nearly all of the germs.\n\",user77232,\"The PETG is food safe (plastic water bottles are made of them), however the colour additives may not be a) stable, or b) food safe. If you are going to make a lemon squeezer then I would suggest that you use a virgin material that is just pet-g with no additives.\n\nHowever, you could only ever use it one. Any food particles that get stuck in between the fine layers of the printed part, will cause bacterial growth. If the walls are porous then the juice can get inside of the part and create a breathing ground.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10310,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Strawberry,2.1782824847157594,3.11657263068942,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Improving triangulation on AutoCAD-generated stl files,\"In regards to a part that I'm having printed remotely (by two processes:- stereolithography and laser sintering), I've been advised by the 3d printing company that 'the triangulation of the file is rather rough'. \n\nIn this particular instance, it probably doesn't matter, but for the future, are there any tips to improving 'triangulation' when generating forms in AutoCAD?\n\nNote, AutoCAD's FACETRES variable is set to 10. \n\",towe,\"This thread and this article, both on Autodesks website, suggest altering the FACETRES system variable to 10 to achieve a higher-quality .stl export.\n\nAlternatively, you can use the 3DPRINT command for FACETRES to be increased automatically, which will then offer an .stl export or to send the file directly to a 3D printing service.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10310,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Strawberry,2.1782824847157594,3.11657263068942,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Improving triangulation on AutoCAD-generated stl files,\"In regards to a part that I'm having printed remotely (by two processes:- stereolithography and laser sintering), I've been advised by the 3d printing company that 'the triangulation of the file is rather rough'. \n\nIn this particular instance, it probably doesn't matter, but for the future, are there any tips to improving 'triangulation' when generating forms in AutoCAD?\n\nNote, AutoCAD's FACETRES variable is set to 10. \n\",Dan Hulme,\"Most CAD tools generate quite low-res triangulations. The ideal solution is to avoid using the CAD tool to generate them. For example, if the print shop can accept your CAD files directly, they may have other software that can triangulate them. For example, if the shop uses GrabCAD Print to slice your parts, that software can open CAD files directly, and produce much better triangulations than exporting from the CAD software. (In this case they won't be using GCP, which doesn't support the print technologies you mention, but it's just an example: some other vendors' tools have the same functionality.)\n\nIf you don't wish to send your original CAD parts, check if your tool can export Parasolid files (.x_t or .x_b). They contain the original boundary representation your CAD tool uses to represent geometry, but not the feature structure, constraints, or design intent.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10322,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ahmadster,1.0891412423578797,3.185067536271683,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Ender 5 Slant or Leaning when printing multiple parts,\"Getting slanted or leaning prints when printing multiple parts.\nI checked the eccentric nuts and belts aren't rubbing anything. All works well when printing a single part. But multiple parts:\n\n\n\nWhat am I missing?\n\",user77232,\"It could also be backlash in the system. Your belts aren't tight enough. Apparently the Y belt is not tight enough. That's a pretty awesome effect though. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10322,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ahmadster,1.0891412423578797,3.185067536271683,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Ender 5 Slant or Leaning when printing multiple parts,\"Getting slanted or leaning prints when printing multiple parts.\nI checked the eccentric nuts and belts aren't rubbing anything. All works well when printing a single part. But multiple parts:\n\n\n\nWhat am I missing?\n\",Fox_89,\"If you want a more detailed answer, you need to give more details, e.g.; \"\"What filament are you using?\"\" \"\"How old is the printer?\"\" \"\"What mods have you made to it?\"\"\n\n\n\nI can tell you two possibilities. Either your x or y axis is slipping which could be because of worn out belts, belts that need to be tightened, or because of too much jerk. The other is overheating of the stepper drivers so make sure the board is getting enough air over it.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10323,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,rpeinhardt,2.528907649931287,2.663475740203885,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Rule of thumb for small type,\"Is there a good rule of thumb for small type on 3d printed pieces?\n\nMinimum type size?\nGood typeface for accurate reproduction?\n\",Joel Coehoorn,\"I've had better luck with fonts that are heavier, usually sans-serif, and usually bold-face. All-caps can help, too, if it makes sense at all for the text. Impact is one widely-available example, though it's far from perfect and rarely has the look I want. I also usually need to turn on the \"\"Print Thin Walls\"\" setting in Cura when handling smaller text.\n\nWhen looking at how small you can get, we'll start with font sizes. It would be easy to get lost here in a discussion of points and measurements. The thing is, font sizes describe the vertical height of the characters. For 3D printing, I believe you'll do better paying more attention to the horizontal width of your text. Most characters are taller than they are wide, so if you can produce legible horizontal features, you can probably handle the vertical features, too. \n\nI'll use the letter \"\"H\"\" as an example here, because it shows the full size of the box for a typical character. Specifically, since I'm talking about horizontal features if you look at the bottom of the H, it has a three sections: leg, then gap, then leg. Also notice the gap is about 3 times the size of the legs (you can see this better if you zoom in close). This varies by font, but 3:1 is good average ratio. That gives us 5 units of width for the character itself. Additionally, you want to allow some spacing between individual characters; not every character needs it next to every other character, but I find it useful to allocate a 6th unit here. \n\nNow consider those 6 units in the context of your nozzle size. With a typical .4 mm nozzle, that means the smallest size character you can legibly produce is about 2.4 mm across. Of course, most fonts are not monospace, where a character might be larger or smaller, but I believe this makes a useful average. Count the number of letters in a line of text you want to print, multiply by 2.4 mm, and that's the minimum amount of horizontal space you need. \n\nIf you really want to push things, a font specifically designed for 3D printing should theoretically be able to work in terms of 3 nozzle units wide + an extra gap between certain letters. But this is all theory, and for the minimum of what's possible. When you also start to think about what actually looks good, especially if you want to show features like serifs, the real world can really mess this up. In practice, I've found I need to go significantly larger even than the 6 unit / 2.4 mm option... but maybe I've just used the wrong font. You can always try a test print of your text in a small rectangle, to make sure it will be legible before using in a larger object.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n10328,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Fox_89,1.726248027126092,3.4560097683240127,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,ABS de-layering on Ender 3,\"I feel like I’ve tried everything. I’ve had an Ender 3 for seven months now printing in PLA. \n\nI’ve modded it plenty including BLTouch. I’m now doing a project that really requires ABS so I have the white hatch box ABS. It wasn’t sticking at first but I got that well under control with glue tape and proper leveling with an enclosure. And I’m assuming this is important. I do indeed have an enclosure. Anyone I’m printing this part that has two long but thin-sideways protrusions coming out. Each one keeps de-laying at two specific points. I’ve tried everything including temperature and everything in Cura settings. I’m up to four failed prints now. I also tried other prints with the ABS and they also delayered in specific spots over and over. \n\nPlease help I’m close to completely giving up on my projects. The de-layerings are all the same with this one being the worse of them.\n\n\n\",cmm,\"Welcome Fox_89 to the SE 3D Printing site. Thank you for bringing your question, and I hope you contribute both questions and answers in the years ahead.\n\nI understand that you've tried everything, so I have nothing new to suggest.\n\nNever the less, I would suggest some possibilities, perhaps one of which you haven't yet tried:\n\n\nExtrude hotter filament. Increase the nozzle temperature. My\nprinter (Pruse3D i3m3s) prints ABS at 255 degrees C. Give the layers\na better chance to melt together.\nPrint slower, so that the layers have a longer time to melt together,\nand they have a longer time to cool before the next layer reheats\nthem.\nUse a cooling fan to bring the part to equilibrium more quickly.\nTry a different filament. Not all filaments have the same shrinkage.\nHatchbox has worked pretty well for me, but try another manufacturer.\nTry another color, like transparent. White can be a difficult color\nbecause it must carry a high pigment load. Black can carry less\npigment, and might be easier to print. \"\"Transparent\"\" or \"\"natural\"\"\ncarries no pigment.\nCheck for anything that might increase the strain on the part at that\nlayer. It could be a geometry change on the other side of the part,\nsince that changes the thermal profile of the whole layer.\nMust it be ABS? PETG has a higher working temperature than PLA, but will print\ndifferently than ABS.\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10328,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Fox_89,1.726248027126092,3.4560097683240127,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,ABS de-layering on Ender 3,\"I feel like I’ve tried everything. I’ve had an Ender 3 for seven months now printing in PLA. \n\nI’ve modded it plenty including BLTouch. I’m now doing a project that really requires ABS so I have the white hatch box ABS. It wasn’t sticking at first but I got that well under control with glue tape and proper leveling with an enclosure. And I’m assuming this is important. I do indeed have an enclosure. Anyone I’m printing this part that has two long but thin-sideways protrusions coming out. Each one keeps de-laying at two specific points. I’ve tried everything including temperature and everything in Cura settings. I’m up to four failed prints now. I also tried other prints with the ABS and they also delayered in specific spots over and over. \n\nPlease help I’m close to completely giving up on my projects. The de-layerings are all the same with this one being the worse of them.\n\n\n\",moe,\"I'd second printing slow and near as hot as your filament can stand and still hold shapes in test runs.\n\nExtruding thin has worked well for me in cases with ABS pull/shrinkage. I've also had luck heating up the environment my printer is in. ABS stays gummy above 105C (its Tg is around there), so I've had good luck running my deck at 105C, and either setting up my print so that parts that were likely to have problems are close to the heat element (on my Ender 3 it's the ~5cm in the center of the plate) or using other external heat (with no fan). [Note to people who might want to try external heat: ABS is flammable - stick with other methods unless you feel sure you understand the safety factors.]\n\nABS grinds down nicely - if it's feasible, consider making these parts thicker/adding a raft on a super hot deck, so you can print much hotter, then sanding to your desired shape.\n\nLastly, and least elegantly: I'm not sure if this is possible - depends on the exact project - but you might think about ways to print these parts separately (close to the hot deck) for connection post-printing. ABS is acetone-soluble, so it's pretty straight-forward to melt some spare bits, and voilà: glue.\n\nGood luck! ABS is a pretty sweet polymer - don't give up on that project just yet!\n\",0.0,0.0\n10331,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Big Mike,1.726248027126092,4.061710330865922,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.488653845767225,How precise do models need to be for 3d printing?,\"I'm not talking about making something that's outright disproportionate of course. I've been working in Blender and I've use Absolute grid Snap to snap my vertices to the grid. The problem is that it (didn't seem) to always work perfectly for centimeters, and seemed to work better for meters. \n(edit: I've learned what the problem was and it was simply the placement of the vertices in side view, being at slightly different elevations. I'm going to emphasize that the difference was very slight. It was just enough to show up in the measurements. When I switched from front view to side view I was able to adjust the elevation to the grid and that fixed the problem.)\n\",R..,\"It depends on what you're working on. If you're producing mechanical/functional parts (even if that just means having to connect to one another or to some non-printed part), 3 mm (0.3 cm) error is almost surely going to prevent them from working. Even 0.3 mm error might be a problem.\n\nIf you're doing standalone prints that don't have to interface with anything else, e.g. art, non-articulated figurines, etc., then it becomes just a question of what's visually acceptable, and that's a matter both of scale and of the detail level you want. For typical tabletop-RPG scale, for example, most of the acutal visual features are going to be smaller than 3 mm, so that much error is not going to work out. It might work for large busts, though.\n\nIn any case, I would recommend trying to solve the underlying problem. Either change your grid snap, or work at a larger scale and just scale down the final model.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n10331,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Big Mike,1.726248027126092,4.061710330865922,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.488653845767225,How precise do models need to be for 3d printing?,\"I'm not talking about making something that's outright disproportionate of course. I've been working in Blender and I've use Absolute grid Snap to snap my vertices to the grid. The problem is that it (didn't seem) to always work perfectly for centimeters, and seemed to work better for meters. \n(edit: I've learned what the problem was and it was simply the placement of the vertices in side view, being at slightly different elevations. I'm going to emphasize that the difference was very slight. It was just enough to show up in the measurements. When I switched from front view to side view I was able to adjust the elevation to the grid and that fixed the problem.)\n\",Big Mike,\"After some trouble shooting I realized what was wrong, and now it seems more like a non issue if anything. There's actually nothing wrong with the grid, and the vertices were snapped to it appropriately in top view. The problem was that that my vertices were not at the same elevation (in side view). The two seemed very close to being snapped appropriately on the grid in side view which is why it wasn't immediately obvious. \n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n10345,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Blubberguy22,2.528907649931287,4.108927526259478,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,BL Touch Probing Fails Intermittently,\"I just installed my BL Touch with a vanilla version of Marlin (1.1.9) on my Ender 3 and everything seems to work fine (including auto home) except the probing. It repeatedly does the first three probes (successfully) but then tries the fourth and fails. Even when disabling the axis movement (X/Y stepper motors) the issue persists, which would indicate that it is not a bad connection or physical location dependent. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot?\n\nOn second thoughts, it seems that it now fails inconsistently, so it is probably a wiring issue, although there is still the issue of it not retracting before printing and not leveling well when it does (although those issues would be more appropriate for a separate question), among other things.\n\n\n\",0scar,\"I've been through the same sort of issues and eventually found that it was attributed by the cable and connector. Re-check or re-wire the sensor, this helped me out.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10345,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Blubberguy22,2.528907649931287,4.108927526259478,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,BL Touch Probing Fails Intermittently,\"I just installed my BL Touch with a vanilla version of Marlin (1.1.9) on my Ender 3 and everything seems to work fine (including auto home) except the probing. It repeatedly does the first three probes (successfully) but then tries the fourth and fails. Even when disabling the axis movement (X/Y stepper motors) the issue persists, which would indicate that it is not a bad connection or physical location dependent. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot?\n\nOn second thoughts, it seems that it now fails inconsistently, so it is probably a wiring issue, although there is still the issue of it not retracting before printing and not leveling well when it does (although those issues would be more appropriate for a separate question), among other things.\n\n\n\",StringsOnFire,\"Is your BL Touch a v3 (likely if you've only just purchased it)? If so, make sure you're using the bugfix version of Marlin 1.1.9, which supposedly fixes the compatibility issues. I say supposedly because there's also a capacitor on the mainboard that can be removed to fix the issue, and once I removed it (and commented out the specific v3 bits in the firmware) the BLTouch performed noticeably better than when relying on the bugfix firmware alone.\n\nTeaching Tech on YouTube has a few BLtouch Ender 3 videos, covering the changes for configuring the bugfix firmware and the removal of the capacitor.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n10738,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Blubberguy22,1.726248027126092,3.3206222047196907,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Inconsistent Layer Issues,\"I was having some issues with printing, most noticeably in this picture: \n\nThe layers are very noticeable and sometimes have gaps, and the overhangs don't print very well (although the former is more of an issue). I just calibrated my E-steps so I don't think that is the issue. It was doing the same thing before I upgraded anything (i.e., I had issues on stock hardware).\n\nMy printer is an Ender 3 with the metal extruder upgrade (which replaces the plastic parts as seen here), an E3D v6, printed fan duct (Bullseye), glass bed, BLTouch, and vanilla Marlin. Pictures of it are also in the below album. The printed upgrades were printed on a Prusa MK3S and don't have the same issue.\n\nI am using Hatchbox 1.75 mm gray PLA, printed at 215 °C with my bed at 60 °C. I am using Ultimaker Cura 4.1 but was also having the problems on an older version of Ultimaker Cura (maybe 3.6, but I can't remember which it was). The problems also existed with some Hatchbox 1.75 mm black PLA but I used the same roll on my Prusa MK3S without any issues, so I'm not sure if filament could be the cause (although it is a different printer so it's still a possibility).\n\nI have tried at different printing speeds and the problem still persists.\n\nI also recently tried varying the temperature during printing (first up to 222 °C then down to 200 °C) with no noticeable difference.\n\nExtra pictures here.\n\nModel is part of Printable Scenery's sorcerer tower.\n\",0scar,\"These lines could be caused by a mechanical issue with the printer; it looks as if the positioning is not up to par. \n\nThis can be related to loose belts of the X-axis and Y-axis, or play in your system, e.g. look at the rollers of the carriage.\n\n\n\nI've experienced an issue with play between the idler mounts and the smooth linear rods on a cheap 3D printer kit myself, but that is not the case here. Just added to explain where play may come from.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10738,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Blubberguy22,1.726248027126092,3.3206222047196907,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Inconsistent Layer Issues,\"I was having some issues with printing, most noticeably in this picture: \n\nThe layers are very noticeable and sometimes have gaps, and the overhangs don't print very well (although the former is more of an issue). I just calibrated my E-steps so I don't think that is the issue. It was doing the same thing before I upgraded anything (i.e., I had issues on stock hardware).\n\nMy printer is an Ender 3 with the metal extruder upgrade (which replaces the plastic parts as seen here), an E3D v6, printed fan duct (Bullseye), glass bed, BLTouch, and vanilla Marlin. Pictures of it are also in the below album. The printed upgrades were printed on a Prusa MK3S and don't have the same issue.\n\nI am using Hatchbox 1.75 mm gray PLA, printed at 215 °C with my bed at 60 °C. I am using Ultimaker Cura 4.1 but was also having the problems on an older version of Ultimaker Cura (maybe 3.6, but I can't remember which it was). The problems also existed with some Hatchbox 1.75 mm black PLA but I used the same roll on my Prusa MK3S without any issues, so I'm not sure if filament could be the cause (although it is a different printer so it's still a possibility).\n\nI have tried at different printing speeds and the problem still persists.\n\nI also recently tried varying the temperature during printing (first up to 222 °C then down to 200 °C) with no noticeable difference.\n\nExtra pictures here.\n\nModel is part of Printable Scenery's sorcerer tower.\n\",Blubberguy22,\"The main issue here (the gaps between layers) was solved by reducing combing.\n\nCombing was enabled without a limit on the range so a max combing distance of 10 mm was introduced. This prevented too much filament from oozing out during travels.\n\nThe oozing filament was causing nothing to come out of the nozzle at the beginning of an extrusion, thus creating the gaps that were consistent in location.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n10356,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hamy,2.1782824847157594,3.2764534681924653,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Is there an easy way to split models in OpenSCAD?,\"I'm wondering if I can take one OpenSCAD object, and cut/splice/split it into two different objects that can then be manipulated independently? \n\nOne approach is to duplicate the object, difference it along the cut border with a 3rd object, and then difference the result with itself. This seems overly complex and I suspect I'm missing something\n\nPS - the point of this is that I have a nicely designed part where I need to create an interlock. I want to first cut the part in half, and then create some interlock mechanism\n\",R..,\"Rather than differencing a copy of the object from itself, which is subject to numerical instability, choose a box (\"\"cube\"\" in OpenSCAD terminology), and intersect it with one copy of the object, then difference it from the other copy of the object. This is all easy if you use modules to encapsulate your parts, and it also works with imported STL files.\n\nSpecifically, it should look something like this:\n\nmodule mycut() {\n translate([x,y,z]) cube([w,l,h]);\n}\n\ndifference() {\n myobject();\n mycut();\n}\n\ntranslate([u,v,w])\nintersection() {\n myobject();\n mycut();\n}\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10593,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hamy,1.726248027126092,2.229769214286525,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Handing OpenSCAD module parameters derived from other variables,\"I'm new to OpenSCAD, but I can only get default parameters working for simple values. \n\nI'm wondering if there is any way to achieve the following, where I have some parameters available to the module caller but by default they are derived from other parameters. \n\nI had expected this to work - I thought the compiler to be able to resolve these variables in-scope during compilation since everything here is deterministic - so perhaps I'm just missing some syntax? If not, is there some better way to achieve this?\n\nmodule clasp(length=20, \n pin_radius=5,\n mouth = pin_radius * 0.9,\n inner_radius = pin_radius + 0.25,\n outer_radius = inner_radius * 1.4,\n ) {\n ... do the work ...\n}\n\n\nUnfortunately this approach leaves mount/inner/outer all undef. \n\",R..,\"This seems to be a limitation of the language. One workaround that's only moderately ugly is, in the body of the module:\n\nmouth = is_undef(mouth) ? pin_radius * 0.9 : mouth;\n\n\netc. If you'll only be using the file via a use directive in other files, another approach is file-scope variables. These can be overridden when the module is called, just like module parameters, and they do not provide or take values for/from the calling file's file-scope variable namespace.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n10638,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hamy,2.1782824847157594,3.1093304690984147,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.551027839747059,\"Creating \"\"pie slice\"\" in OpenSCAD?\",\"When making a cylinder, sometimes I need to only take a pie slice. I'm currently using this neat trick to make pie slices for angles under 90 degrees. However, I have need of a few angles over 90 but under 180 degrees. Is there a way to generalize/extend this to work for these bigger angles? \n\nmodule pie_slice(r=3.0,a=30) { \n intersection() {\n circle(r=r);\n square(r);\n rotate(a-90) square(r); \n } \n}\n\npie_slice(r=10,a=15);\n\n\",Mick,\"Although generating complex shapes by combining primitive OpenSCAD shapes is a well-established tradition, and is often all that is needed, it would be more elegant in this case to generate a pie slice directly using the polygon function and a list comprehension.\n\nmodule pie_slice(r=3.0, a=30) {\n polygon(points=[\n [0, 0],\n for(theta=0; theta<a; theta=theta+$fa)\n [r*cos(theta), r*sin(theta)],\n [r*cos(a), r*sin(a)]\n ]);\n}\n\n\nNote that the above code is a little crude, since it does no error checking, but it works. It uses the $fa special variable for the step angle.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10638,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hamy,2.1782824847157594,3.1093304690984147,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.1827783713261073,0.551027839747059,\"Creating \"\"pie slice\"\" in OpenSCAD?\",\"When making a cylinder, sometimes I need to only take a pie slice. I'm currently using this neat trick to make pie slices for angles under 90 degrees. However, I have need of a few angles over 90 but under 180 degrees. Is there a way to generalize/extend this to work for these bigger angles? \n\nmodule pie_slice(r=3.0,a=30) { \n intersection() {\n circle(r=r);\n square(r);\n rotate(a-90) square(r); \n } \n}\n\npie_slice(r=10,a=15);\n\n\",CFreitas,\"This is what I use:\n\nmodule pieSlice(a, r, h){\n // a:angle, r:radius, h:height\n rotate_extrude(angle=a) square([r,h]);\n}\npieSlice(110,20,3);\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n10360,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Andrew Butenko,2.528907649931287,4.31211844916221,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,Needle Hotend for nonplanar printing,\"To minimize retractions and travel when printing several objects, some slicers produce gcode for sequential deposition when each object is built in a traditional manner bottom up layer by layer before starting a new object. Of course, there are limitations caused by the hotend geometry :\n\nSo bulky hotends don't allow for this trick to be used wen sequential pieces are closer than several centimeters. If there where hotends with minimal end effector geometry (needle like, much like drill bit on CNC) we might even do things like spiralizing contours of a single object. \nThis has also potential for other tricks like producing interlacing layers for better layer bonding etc. I wasn't able to find any ongoing work on minimal geometry hotends. Any links? And what might be the challenges in making one? heatblocks and heating cartridges are out of the question but nichrome wire and a fast PID heat controller might do the job.\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"The site is not well-suited to crowd-sourced invention, but the drawbacks to your suggestion are (I think) on topic.\n\nThe hotend has two main tasks. Accurate control of extrusion, and maintaining the desired volumetric melt rate. One factor which influences extrusion quality is the size of the melt-zone - generally, you want this to be as small as possible because rigid filament is easier to extrude/retract without ooze/stringing. Equally, the melt zone needs to be provided with a thermal mass (physical or virtual) to stabilize its temperature under extrusion.\n\nWhilst it might be feasible to prototype your concept quite easily, it is likely to be expensive in volume - and there is no great direct advantage. So this is a concept which might enable an area of research but it doesn't look like a development objective with its own intrinsic value.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n10360,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Andrew Butenko,2.528907649931287,4.31211844916221,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,Needle Hotend for nonplanar printing,\"To minimize retractions and travel when printing several objects, some slicers produce gcode for sequential deposition when each object is built in a traditional manner bottom up layer by layer before starting a new object. Of course, there are limitations caused by the hotend geometry :\n\nSo bulky hotends don't allow for this trick to be used wen sequential pieces are closer than several centimeters. If there where hotends with minimal end effector geometry (needle like, much like drill bit on CNC) we might even do things like spiralizing contours of a single object. \nThis has also potential for other tricks like producing interlacing layers for better layer bonding etc. I wasn't able to find any ongoing work on minimal geometry hotends. Any links? And what might be the challenges in making one? heatblocks and heating cartridges are out of the question but nichrome wire and a fast PID heat controller might do the job.\n\",Mick,\"A conventional hot end needs only to be obstruction-free to the desired printing height on two adjacent sides to achieve what you want. The only other requirement is to be able to tell your slicer in what order you want your models to be printed.\n\nFor example, if your hot end is free of obstructions on the front and left sides, all that you need to do is lay out your models in a rectilinear grid, and tell your slicer to process them front-to-back, and left-to-right.\n\nI have thought of doing this myself. By mounting my E3D V6 hot end as low as I can on its carrier, I should be able to print models up to 50mm in height, and only spaced 20mm apart. I may have to forego part-cooling, but I mainly print PETG without part-cooling, so no problems there.\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n10460,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Andrew Butenko,1.726248027126092,3.282132985301826,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Help diagnose Z-banding,\"The printer is \"\"Monoprice MP Select Mini 3D Printer V2\"\".\n\nThis is how my printed fan part looks like:\n\n\n\nThese printers are notorious for their Z lead screw assembly (M4 bolt & nut) so I installed flex coupler and aligned the M4 bolt and motor shaft so that the wobble is minimal. It is still there, but I don't think this amount of wobble would produce something like what I experience. Please check out the timelapse video at the end.\n\nI also tightened up Z guide rails (no rattle, very little slop)\n\nMoreover the banding appears to be less pronounced and have alot greater period for vase prints \n\n(this is extruded ellipse printed along Y axis).\nI tried:\n\n\nslowing down print by 50 % - no effect on banding. \nmonitored hotend temperature with external probe on the heater block (-+5 °C)\n\n\nThe banding appears to be almost exclusively in Y axis direction; for example, the same ellipse printed along X axis: \n\n\nNow, same ellipse in layered mode (seam side) printed along Y axis\n\n\",0scar,\"This differs from the traditional banding as observed from Z wobble induced banding as e.g. explained in this answer.\n\nYour banding patterns clearly seem to form diagonal bands, this is most probably a combination of the lead and the full rotation of the stepper. The most logical explanation is that the layer shifts as a whole in X-Y direction (when seen against the print height, this movement is concentric seen from the top). This means that the next layer is positioned over the previous layer in a concentric pattern. This hints to some sort of defect in your X/Y-plane assembly and should be investigated further. \n\nThis is difficult to visualize, but this sketch shows the issue for some layers:\n\n\n\nThis could be related to the belts of the X and Y-axis, play on the drive pulleys, non-straight lead screw, guide rods with play, play in general, Z-stepper alignment to the threaded rod, etc. Considering the amount of Z-wobble fixes shared by the unofficial MP Select Wiki, the best place to look for is the Z-stepper to lead screw coupling.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n10371,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,AvieRose,2.528907649931287,3.3468467879848673,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Can't control printer via USB,\"I've recently purchased a Makerbot Replicator Dual clone made by CTC. I'm in the process of upgrading/adding a few parts to it, but noticed that I can't control or print via USB. \n\nThe machine prints perfectly from an SD card and I can see information in the terminal from the printer via USB in RepG and through OctoPrint - Such as M105 - but can't send any .x3g files to print or upgrade firmware (I wanted to flash Sailfish 7.7 eventually).\n\nTo clarify;\n\nIn Octoprint\n\n\nTemperature auto-reporting is working\nCan send M105, M27, etc.. & get response\nCan select .x3g files from the SD card to print & the printer starts\nCan upload files (.stl, .x3G, .gco etc..) to Octopi, but even the .x3g files wont actually start on the printer.\nTried sending M140 T0 S200 & M106 T0 S100 which received OK response, but there was no change reported, or indeed actually happening with the tool\n\n\nTerminal Output from OctoPrint at connection:\n\nChanging monitoring state from \"\"Offline\"\" to \"\"Opening serial port\"\"\nConnected to: <octoprint_GPX.gpxprinter.GpxPrinter instance at 0x6c9a02d8>, starting monitor\nStarting baud rate detection...\nChanging monitoring state from \"\"Opening serial port\"\" to \"\"Detecting baudrate\"\"\nTrying baudrate: 115200\nRecv: start\nSend: N0 M110 N0*125\nChanging monitoring state from \"\"Detecting baudrate\"\" to \"\"Operational\"\"\nRecv: Makerbot v7.4\nSend: N0 M110 N0*125\nRecv: echo: gcode to x3g translation by GPX\nRecv: SD card ok\nRecv: T:27 /0 B:21 /0 T0:27 /0 T1:26 /0 @:0 B@:0\nRecv: T:27 /0 B:20 /0 T0:27 /0 T1:26 /0 @:0 B@:0\nRecv: T:27 /0 B:21 /0 T0:27 /0 T1:26 /0 @:0 B@:0\nRecv: ok\nSend: N1 M115*39\nRecv: ok PROTOCOL_VERSION:0.1 FIRMWARE_NAME:Makerbot FIRMWARE_VERSION:7.4 FIRMWARE_URL:https://support.makerbot.com/learn/earlier-products/replicator-original/updating-firmware-for-the-makerbot-replicator-via-replicatorg_13302 MACHINE_TYPE:r1d EXTRUDER_COUNT:2\nSend: M21\nRecv: ok\nRecv: SD card ok\nSend: M20\nRecv: ok\nRecv: Begin file list\nRecv: 2GB\nRecv: System Volume Information\nRecv: mesh_bed.stl\nRecv: xyzCalibration_cube.x3g\nRecv: CTCB_3DBenchy.x3g\nRecv: 3DBenchy.x3g\nRecv: ActiveCoolingDuct.x3g\nRecv: CTCB_ActiveDuctD4_UN.x3g\nRecv: UK_TROLLEY_TOKEN.x3g\nRecv: mesh_bed.x3g\nRecv: z-axis-support.x3g\nRecv: bed-screws.x3g\nRecv: spool_nut.x3g\nRecv: 2016_spool.x3g\nRecv: 2016_spool_no_raft.x3g\nRecv: ActiveDuctD4_UN.x3g\nRecv: Z_Axis_Support_Ends.x3g\nRecv: End file list\nSend: M105\nRecv: ok T:27 /0 B:20 /0 T0:27 /0 T1:26 /0 @:0 B@:0\nSend: M105\n\n\nIn ReplicatorG\n\n\nThe software connects to the board via USB and recognises that it is a Mightyboard running f/w 7.4\nReports that it is an unvarified board\nCannot use the GUI control tab to send commands to the printer\nCannot send sliced .x3g files over USB, console shows a time out error instantly\nSaving .x3g to SD card does work\n\n\nIs my Mightyboard just a dud, or is there something I can do to try and fix it? \n\nThe reason I want to try and solve this now, is that I'm planning on adding active cooling and LED lighting control so don't really want to do all that just to find out that I need to replace the board soon.\n\n\n\nAdditional info\n\nSome information meaning that the current firmware and board is reported, as well as current temperatures of the extruders and heat bed. I can print .x3g files from the SD card, but I can't send G-code commands or .x3g files through USB.\n\nI have just tried a few G-code commands through OctoPrint terminal with mixed results. M105 works, M140 & M106 don't.\n\",cmm,\"Good morning, and welcome to 3D Printing SE.\n\nYou said: \"\"I can see information from the printer via USB in RepG and through OctoPrint, but can't send any prints, commands or upgrade firmware (I wanted to flash Sailfish 7.7 eventually).\"\" This means that the USB communication is working fine. It isn't a question of drivers or the FTDI interface chip. That must be working fine or you wouldn't have any USB communication.\n\nI would look toward a problem with slight dialect differences in the firmware that is flashed compared with the expectations of the host software.\n\nI am not an expert regarding the differences in firmware G-code dialects, but there are at least: Marlin, Repetier, Mach3, LinuxCNC, Machinekit, Smoothie, Makerware, Sailfish. I got this list from the \"\"about\"\" page for Slic3r.\n\nI would start by trying to slice files with different dialects and seeing if one of the resulting G-code files prints. You may also find a description of the firmware you have flashed with references one of these names, which would save a lot of time.\n\nFor flashing, you could try dropping back to the Arduino level and use those flashing tools.\n\n\n\nMore answer in response to the information you have added to the question.\n\nX3G files are not G-code files. If you are using a control program that expects G-code, it will not be able to handle X3G code. Similarly, if the printer expects X3G, it may not understand G-code.\n\nOctoprint has an adapter layer that seems to interconvert between g-code and GPX. You are running this layer. At about line 11 of the log file you added to the question:\n\n\n Recv: echo: gcode to x3g translation by GPX\n\n\nThe GPX add-in may be perfect, and it may cover all version of firmware and all functions. I don't use it and am unfamiliar with it.\n\nTo flash your board, I would be reluctant to assume that Octoprint/GPX new how to run that protocol. I would use the host software supplied by the vendor. Flashing is an infrequent operation, and add-on software is less likely to have it 100% correct. If I were writing GPX, I would intentionally make flashing be out-of-scope, since the consequences of doing it wrong could easily be to brick the printer.\n\nSince Octoprint/GPX claims to be able to print to the printer, I would being all software up the respective current versions. Flash current Sailfish firmware using the supplied host tools. Update to the current/best version of Octoprint/GPX. Read the release notes of Octoprint/GPX for known issues.\n\nIt seems that X3D files are fairly limited in their use, which will constrain your options to be within the scope of the community that uses X3D files. I tried to add the X3D tag to your question, but so far no one has created the X3D tag.\n\nMakerbot is part of Stratasys, and should be well supported. It may be well supported mostly within its ecosystem. You have a clone of a Makerbot machine, so, even though most or all of the printer parts are open source, you may not be able to use the genuine Makerbot host control software.\n\nYour question asked if your controller board was working. It almost certainly is. I think you have a software/firmware compatibility problem.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n10371,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,AvieRose,2.528907649931287,3.3468467879848673,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Can't control printer via USB,\"I've recently purchased a Makerbot Replicator Dual clone made by CTC. I'm in the process of upgrading/adding a few parts to it, but noticed that I can't control or print via USB. \n\nThe machine prints perfectly from an SD card and I can see information in the terminal from the printer via USB in RepG and through OctoPrint - Such as M105 - but can't send any .x3g files to print or upgrade firmware (I wanted to flash Sailfish 7.7 eventually).\n\nTo clarify;\n\nIn Octoprint\n\n\nTemperature auto-reporting is working\nCan send M105, M27, etc.. & get response\nCan select .x3g files from the SD card to print & the printer starts\nCan upload files (.stl, .x3G, .gco etc..) to Octopi, but even the .x3g files wont actually start on the printer.\nTried sending M140 T0 S200 & M106 T0 S100 which received OK response, but there was no change reported, or indeed actually happening with the tool\n\n\nTerminal Output from OctoPrint at connection:\n\nChanging monitoring state from \"\"Offline\"\" to \"\"Opening serial port\"\"\nConnected to: <octoprint_GPX.gpxprinter.GpxPrinter instance at 0x6c9a02d8>, starting monitor\nStarting baud rate detection...\nChanging monitoring state from \"\"Opening serial port\"\" to \"\"Detecting baudrate\"\"\nTrying baudrate: 115200\nRecv: start\nSend: N0 M110 N0*125\nChanging monitoring state from \"\"Detecting baudrate\"\" to \"\"Operational\"\"\nRecv: Makerbot v7.4\nSend: N0 M110 N0*125\nRecv: echo: gcode to x3g translation by GPX\nRecv: SD card ok\nRecv: T:27 /0 B:21 /0 T0:27 /0 T1:26 /0 @:0 B@:0\nRecv: T:27 /0 B:20 /0 T0:27 /0 T1:26 /0 @:0 B@:0\nRecv: T:27 /0 B:21 /0 T0:27 /0 T1:26 /0 @:0 B@:0\nRecv: ok\nSend: N1 M115*39\nRecv: ok PROTOCOL_VERSION:0.1 FIRMWARE_NAME:Makerbot FIRMWARE_VERSION:7.4 FIRMWARE_URL:https://support.makerbot.com/learn/earlier-products/replicator-original/updating-firmware-for-the-makerbot-replicator-via-replicatorg_13302 MACHINE_TYPE:r1d EXTRUDER_COUNT:2\nSend: M21\nRecv: ok\nRecv: SD card ok\nSend: M20\nRecv: ok\nRecv: Begin file list\nRecv: 2GB\nRecv: System Volume Information\nRecv: mesh_bed.stl\nRecv: xyzCalibration_cube.x3g\nRecv: CTCB_3DBenchy.x3g\nRecv: 3DBenchy.x3g\nRecv: ActiveCoolingDuct.x3g\nRecv: CTCB_ActiveDuctD4_UN.x3g\nRecv: UK_TROLLEY_TOKEN.x3g\nRecv: mesh_bed.x3g\nRecv: z-axis-support.x3g\nRecv: bed-screws.x3g\nRecv: spool_nut.x3g\nRecv: 2016_spool.x3g\nRecv: 2016_spool_no_raft.x3g\nRecv: ActiveDuctD4_UN.x3g\nRecv: Z_Axis_Support_Ends.x3g\nRecv: End file list\nSend: M105\nRecv: ok T:27 /0 B:20 /0 T0:27 /0 T1:26 /0 @:0 B@:0\nSend: M105\n\n\nIn ReplicatorG\n\n\nThe software connects to the board via USB and recognises that it is a Mightyboard running f/w 7.4\nReports that it is an unvarified board\nCannot use the GUI control tab to send commands to the printer\nCannot send sliced .x3g files over USB, console shows a time out error instantly\nSaving .x3g to SD card does work\n\n\nIs my Mightyboard just a dud, or is there something I can do to try and fix it? \n\nThe reason I want to try and solve this now, is that I'm planning on adding active cooling and LED lighting control so don't really want to do all that just to find out that I need to replace the board soon.\n\n\n\nAdditional info\n\nSome information meaning that the current firmware and board is reported, as well as current temperatures of the extruders and heat bed. I can print .x3g files from the SD card, but I can't send G-code commands or .x3g files through USB.\n\nI have just tried a few G-code commands through OctoPrint terminal with mixed results. M105 works, M140 & M106 don't.\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"You can find gcode information at the RepRap wiki. The obvious other thing to try is G1 X10 for a move.\n\nOctoprint prints by sending the individual file's gcode one line at a time over USB. It appears that the firmware on your printer might not respond to any 'action' commands over gcode, rather than any fault as such with your hardware/software setup.\n\nAlthough your board reports a specific firmware version, it is impossible to know if that firmware was corrupted, or patched by the vendor (and no change reflected in the revision print). Thus, your best option to regain full control might be to flash your own firmware using low-level access. I'm guessing that will require an ICSP lead.\n\nThe fact that USB works, and the printer works, tends to suggest that the board is properly functional.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n10384,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,jnts,2.528907649931287,3.1652291071264176,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.9505769891325135,Getting 5V directly from the Anet A8 mainboard,\"My anet A8 stepper drivers get very hot after some time printing, so I decided to install a 5V fan to cool them down. I had the idea to get a 12V to 5V regulator to connect a 5V fan, but then i found this image:\n\n\n\n(source: lokspace.eu)\n\nIt looks like the Anet A8 has an ICSP and Serial header that can deliver 5 or 3.3 V directly from the board. Is this correct? If it is, how many amps can i get from this pin? Can I connect a 5V fan directly here?\n\nThanks and sorry for my bad English.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The 5V is derived from the 12V supply by a linear regulator (L7805CD, DPAK package with 100 C/W thermal resistance). The maximum you can draw from it (without overheating the regulator) is around 200mA. Considering the electronics on the board are already using some power, the maximum would be around a 150mA fan but this would have the regulator running near its maximum limits.\n\",2.845827522384412,0.0\n10384,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,jnts,2.528907649931287,3.1652291071264176,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.9505769891325135,Getting 5V directly from the Anet A8 mainboard,\"My anet A8 stepper drivers get very hot after some time printing, so I decided to install a 5V fan to cool them down. I had the idea to get a 12V to 5V regulator to connect a 5V fan, but then i found this image:\n\n\n\n(source: lokspace.eu)\n\nIt looks like the Anet A8 has an ICSP and Serial header that can deliver 5 or 3.3 V directly from the board. Is this correct? If it is, how many amps can i get from this pin? Can I connect a 5V fan directly here?\n\nThanks and sorry for my bad English.\n\",cmm,\"You would be better to use a 12V fan. \n\nThe 5V is for powering logic. It should not have motor loads, even fan motor loads, applied to it. You will not be saving power over using a 12V fan. According to @Tom 's answer, the 5V is derived through a linear regulator. \n\nA linear regulator has the property that the current drawn from the regulator at 5V will equal the current drawn by the regulator at 12V. $7/12$'ths of the power will be lost in the regulator chip as heat, which may cause the chip to overheat if there is not enough cooling margin in the thermal design.\n\nIf you use a 12V fan the current consumption of the fan for the same cooling capacity will be lower, and you won't waste more energy dropping the voltage.\n\nMay I ask how hot the steppers are? Too hot to comfortably hold for more than a few seconds may still be completely acceptable for motors. So hot that the plastic holding them melts is too hot for the mounting, but may still be ok for the motor. So hot that they cause burns with 5 second contact is probably too hot.\n\nIf the motors are too hot, it might be better to check the current the motor drivers are programmed to deliver (either through software configuration or a potentiometer -- I don't know the printer). Getting the current right is a better fix that managing the excess heat. It may also improve the linearity of microstepping and improve print quality.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n10420,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Paulorfo,1.0891412423578797,2.6908545064521765,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Tevo tarantula Z- port burnt,\"I burnt the Z- port for the Z endstop. Can I use the Z+ port? I'm using Jim Brown's Marlin firmware. \n\nAny help to change that is highly appreciated. I know nothing about code. Sorry for my ignorance. I'm new on this 3D printing universe.\n\",Greenonline,\"Assuming line 585 of Configuration.h looks like this\n\n// Almost all printers will be using one per axis. Probes will use one or more of the\n// extra connectors. Leave undefined any used for non-endstop and non-probe purposes.\n#define USE_XMIN_PLUG\n#define USE_YMIN_PLUG\n#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG\n//#define USE_XMAX_PLUG\n//#define USE_YMAX_PLUG\n//#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG\n\n\nThat is to say, if the Maximum endstop ports/plugs aren't currently being used, then you could just redefine the pin used by ZMIN (Z-) to be that currently being used by the ZMAX (Z+), in the appropriate pins_XXXX.h file (contained within MarlinTarantula/Marlin/src/pins/), where XXXX depends upon which board you have (I don't know what board your printer has).\n\nFor example, if you have a RAMPS board then in pins_RAMPS.h at line 79 you would change\n\n//\n// Limit Switches\n//\n#define X_MIN_PIN 3\n#ifndef X_MAX_PIN\n #define X_MAX_PIN 2\n#endif\n#define Y_MIN_PIN 14\n#define Y_MAX_PIN 15\n#define Z_MIN_PIN 18\n#define Z_MAX_PIN 19\n\n\nto become (note the change in the last two lines)\n\n//\n// Limit Switches\n//\n#define X_MIN_PIN 3\n#ifndef X_MAX_PIN\n #define X_MAX_PIN 2\n#endif\n#define Y_MIN_PIN 14\n#define Y_MAX_PIN 15\n#define Z_MIN_PIN 19\n#define Z_MAX_PIN 18\n\n\nThen compile and reflash the firmware.\n\nObviously you would then plug the Z_MIN (Z-) wire from the endstop into the Z_MAX (Z+) port.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n10428,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Paulorfo,1.726248027126092,4.028319421555711,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Tevo Tarantula auto bed leveling config,\"As discussed previously on a post, Tevo tarantula Z- port burnt, I've burnt one of my Z endstops ports (I solved this issue and I'm using the Z+ port, normally).\nI did that trying to install an auto bed leveling sensor. I don't want to mess up again...\n\nI have a LJ18A3-8-Z/BX NPN sensor.\n\nBrown wire is connected to the N (+) of the power supply, blue and black wire connected as shown in the picture (pay attention to the red markings on the white wire):\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAny advice about the wiring is welcome. But I hope it's right, I've read in several places1 that this type of sensor doesn't require any kind of resistor.\n\nI'm using the last version of Jim Brown firmware.\n\nHere it is what I've changed so far: \n\n\n//#define BLTOUCH // ANTClabs BLTouch sensor (might also work with clones)\n//#define BLTOUCH_V3 // ANTCLabs BLTouch sensor version 3\n//#define SN04 // Green sensor\n#define INDUCTIVE_NO // Normally open inductive sensor\n//#define INDUCTIVE_NC // Normally closed inductive sensor\n//#define SERVO_PROBE // Endstop switch on rotating arm. Set servo angles!\n//#define NOZZLE_PROBE // Nozzle wired up to contact metal on bed\n\n//#define TRIPOINT\n//#define LINEAR\n//#define BILINEAR\n#define UBL\n//#define MANUAL\n\n\nLet's go to my issues:\n\n\nBefore flashing this configs, the sensor's LED would go on near metal and off far from metal. With this new config the LED remains off until I place the sensor near metal... But after it goes on, it remains on, even when far from metal.\nWhen I home the axis, I try to simulate the position of the Z axis, holding the sensor close to a metal plate. But the Z axis moves up... up... up... Doesn't matter what I do with the sensor (hold close or distant from metal). Until some point and it stops.\n\n\nSo far nothing is fried and I'm trying to make it work right now. It seems to me (based on what I read) that a NPN sensor really doesn't need anything. Just plug on the power supply and board.\n\nSo... basically, as you can see, I have no idea of what I'm doing. I hope someone can help me... \nI've tried to find answers and figure it out by myself. I'm not being lazy here... \n\n\n\nBTW I'm wondering if Jim Brown is still better than the official Marlin Firmware... So I'm willing to change it if that is the opinion of the pros! \n\n\n\nFootnote\n\n1 For example, in the second post to How do I wire my lj18A3-8-Z/BX to my prusa? going insane\n\",0scar,\"An NPN sensor is wired differently from a PNP sensor. The signal wire is the black wire, blue is the ground wire.\n\nAccording to this posting, Don’t trust the internet (and how to add an Inductive Proximity Sensor to your 3D printer the proper and easiest way, you need to insert a 6.8 kΩ resistor in between the black and the blue wire, I quote:\n\n\n ...Indeed, all we need to do is add a single 6.8 kΩ resistor between BLACK and BLUE and all should work fine.\n\n\n\n\nAlternatively, a diode in the black wire would also work, I quote:\n\n\n ... So I did test using a diode and that also works perfectly fine, simply because the direction in which the 12 V current would like to flow when the sensor is open will be blocked by the diode. The internal (or hardware) pull-up still pulls the Atmega’s sensor pin to HIGH however.\n\n\n\n\n\n ... \n But as soon as the sensor is closed, the diode would allow the 5 V current to flow in the opposite direction towards ground, which pulls the Atmega’s sensor pin to LOW.\n\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10426,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,LucasN,1.726248027126092,2.55797842413943,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Damaged overhang,\"I have issues with this overhang:\n\n\n\nThe whole part always breaks in this overhang during the print.\n\nI tried to increase the count of wall lines and decrease printing speed, but none of those things help. Do you have any idea how to fix it? Is possible to create support inside a model to print this overhang?\n\n(I´m using Cura 4.1.0.)\n\nI´m using 3 wall´s lines and 15% gyroid infill. My bed has 70 °C and nozzle 205 °C. I am using PLA Prusament galaxy black. The part is oriented the right way. By overhang I mean damaged part above holes.\n\",LucasN,\"As @r-ahlskog pointed out, it was due to the top layers count being too low. Adding some, now it looks perfect:\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10426,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,LucasN,1.726248027126092,2.55797842413943,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Damaged overhang,\"I have issues with this overhang:\n\n\n\nThe whole part always breaks in this overhang during the print.\n\nI tried to increase the count of wall lines and decrease printing speed, but none of those things help. Do you have any idea how to fix it? Is possible to create support inside a model to print this overhang?\n\n(I´m using Cura 4.1.0.)\n\nI´m using 3 wall´s lines and 15% gyroid infill. My bed has 70 °C and nozzle 205 °C. I am using PLA Prusament galaxy black. The part is oriented the right way. By overhang I mean damaged part above holes.\n\",r_ahlskog,\"When you get upwards facing things failing it can be because the slicer has too few top layers which makes angled faces have gaps. While you may think it is a wall the slicer sees it as top layer. Try increasing the number of top layers and check in the preview how it appears.\n\nInfill will normally support those faces so no separate support is needed. Just make sure you have enough top layers that no gaps form, 3-5 layers should be alright.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n10432,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Robert,1.0891412423578797,3.079570220207228,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Why did my print fall off its raft?,\"I just set up a refurbished MP Select Mini V2 and tried to print the test file included by the manufacturer, \"\"cat.gcode\"\", from the included SD card. I printed in PLA (I think; the unlabeled sample included with the printer) at the default extruder temperature, 190°C. The print bed was set to 50°C.\n\nIt appeared to print the raft fine, and then a couple of layers of the cat. At this point I walked away, and when I came back a few minutes later here's what I found:\n\n\n\nThe raft is still stuck to the bed, but the layers of cat that were printed fell off the base and onto the floor. Here's what I picked up off the floor, (next to the detached raft):\n\n\n\nThe raft was stuck on the bed just fine, so I don't think it's an adhesion issue. The bed and the desk the printer is sitting on are both very close to level (things don't slide or roll off). There's no breeze and I'm certain nothing bumped or touched the printer while it was running.\n\nThis is my first attempt at a print so I obviously have no idea what I'm doing. I'm planning to set up a camera to record the next attempt. What other troubleshooting can I do? What is the likely cause of this problem?\n\",Trish,\"Your trouble lies within the presliced G-code: the temperatures are rather low for PLA and upping both by 10 degrees would be advisable:\n\n\n200 °C for the Hotend\n60 °C for the Bed\n\n\nAtop that, printing a raft for PLA is usually not advisable.\n\nGet yourself a slicer (the most common free ones I am comfortable with using are Cura, Slic3r and Slic3r Prusa Edition) and either import a fitting profile and create your own profile, then slice the .stl-model yoruself.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n10432,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Robert,1.0891412423578797,3.079570220207228,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Why did my print fall off its raft?,\"I just set up a refurbished MP Select Mini V2 and tried to print the test file included by the manufacturer, \"\"cat.gcode\"\", from the included SD card. I printed in PLA (I think; the unlabeled sample included with the printer) at the default extruder temperature, 190°C. The print bed was set to 50°C.\n\nIt appeared to print the raft fine, and then a couple of layers of the cat. At this point I walked away, and when I came back a few minutes later here's what I found:\n\n\n\nThe raft is still stuck to the bed, but the layers of cat that were printed fell off the base and onto the floor. Here's what I picked up off the floor, (next to the detached raft):\n\n\n\nThe raft was stuck on the bed just fine, so I don't think it's an adhesion issue. The bed and the desk the printer is sitting on are both very close to level (things don't slide or roll off). There's no breeze and I'm certain nothing bumped or touched the printer while it was running.\n\nThis is my first attempt at a print so I obviously have no idea what I'm doing. I'm planning to set up a camera to record the next attempt. What other troubleshooting can I do? What is the likely cause of this problem?\n\",GittingGud,\"It looks to me as the model did not have enough surface contact with the raft.\n\n\n\nThis can be caused by to big of a gap between raft and model set in the slicer or because of Underextrusion. \nThe part itself does not look underextruded, at least not a lot, so I would say that the slicer settings were not ideal.\n\nI would suggest you slice a part by yourself and test the printer again.\n\nFrom personal experience a skirt or brim works better with PLA and uncomplicated models.\n\nFor general bugfixing, explanation of slicer settings and anomalies the Simplfy3D hompage is a great resource.\n\nHere is an article about Rafts, Skirts and Brims and here the general guide page for print quality.\n\n\n\nYour printing temperature is a bit low but shouldn't be the cause for the problem. Maybe check the specs on the PLA you used.\nYour bet temperature seems to be fine as the raft did adhere well.\n\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10437,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,sara,2.528907649931287,3.5188408246094167,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.488653845767225,Problem in 3D printing of an empty model,\"I'm new to 3D printing. I modeled an empty bird in Blender (the stl file of model is presented). I tested the model in Blender (using 3D printing tool) and also the Netfabb software. They don't show any error. However, when I load this model in Ultimaker Cura for printing, as shown in the last image, the result is only a cylinder shape bird. I have seen many 3D printed empty models on internet. Why can't my model be printed correctly?\nthe download link of the model\n\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n\",Trish,\"You have modeled your bird. So far so good, but you likely only modeled a single surface and not a closed surface body. The crucial step was forgotten, as your pictures 1 and 2 show: you have designed a single surface for most of the object, not a body. To turn the bird into a printable object needs it not to be a single surface but a surface enclosing a volume that has some thickness.\n\nAt the moment, it looks like this: 640 vertices, NO enclosed space.\n\n\n\nTo achieve an even thickness object in blender:\n\n\nA to choose the whole model\nE for extrude Region\nZ Z to constrain movement to Z axis\ntype in the wanted thickness\n\n\nremember, that the grid in Blender is usually in cm, while slicing programs reference in mm!\n\nclose the edges by creating faces there (chose 3 and F)\n\nA to grab everything\nW then R to remove doubles, increase the merging distance to 0.05 (it takes away hundreds of superfluous, slightly shifted vertices!)\nCTRL+N to recalculate normals\n\nMake sure to check the slicer, because we have some strays, visible in red... where are those? They are faces hidden in the body!\n\n\n\nHide the underside (Select nothing, allow viewing through the object, 3 > B > draw a box around the lowest layer > H)\n\nIf you have the normals visible, you'll see the iffy areas now. Fix them by removing the superfluous faces and flipping those that are not superfuous but just inside out (W>F). One example area I highlight in the next picture\n\n\nIn the end, it should look like this in cura:\n\n\n\nMake sure to check layer view and possibly thicken some areas manually - or make a box-part for the top, so you can ensure printability. As you'll see, at some scales, some walls are too thin due to how we extruded along Z only.\n\n\n\nAlternate ways\n\nAs noted in the comments, instead of the Z-Extrude, a model with very vertical walls could benefit from using the solidify modifier. You will have to add it via object mode, modifiers and then choosing solidify and setting a positive thickness. To properly convert the visible modifier into an actual change of the model for the export, you will have to Apply the modifier.\n\nAfterwards, go back to hunting stray internal surfaces and flipped faces.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n10437,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,sara,2.528907649931287,3.5188408246094167,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.488653845767225,Problem in 3D printing of an empty model,\"I'm new to 3D printing. I modeled an empty bird in Blender (the stl file of model is presented). I tested the model in Blender (using 3D printing tool) and also the Netfabb software. They don't show any error. However, when I load this model in Ultimaker Cura for printing, as shown in the last image, the result is only a cylinder shape bird. I have seen many 3D printed empty models on internet. Why can't my model be printed correctly?\nthe download link of the model\n\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\n\",sara,\"after a lot of search, i used the autodesk Meshmixer to add thickness to the model. I used the blender only for modeling and didn't use the solidify modifier to add thickness to the model. Then in autodesk Meshmixer, using select→ edit → Extrude, i added thickness to the model (the new stl file is presented). It seems that the new model can be printed. However, the blue lines can be seen in the print preview of Ultimaker Cura and i dont know how to remove them. Unfortunately, i haven't a 3d printer to test the model, but it seems that it is printable.\nthe link of repaired stl file\n\n\n\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10438,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,McAbra,1.0891412423578797,2.4332015829084375,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Home E / extrude until endstop is triggered,\"I'm working on something that I'll share once it's done (then hope it's not a disaster and actually useful to someone).\n\nIt requires a stepper to rotate a part by a certain amount of degrees, which I plan to achieve by using E1 and simply issuing an appropriate G0 command.\n\nThe issue I'm having is that I would need Marlin, upon start to check if the part is actually rotated to the 0 deg position.\n\nI suspect that there is no way to i.e. use an unused Z max pin and issue something like the well known G28 or like Duet3D does with G0/1 S parameter. Is there maybe a hack I can apply with a filament run out sensor as that axis endstop?\n\",towe,\"You should be able to adapt the \"\"Dual X Carriage\"\" feature for your project.\n\nThat allows a second print head (on the X axis) to move independently of the \"\"main\"\" X axis motor - and it can also be homed against its own endstop.\n\nYou can enable this feature in the configuration_adv.h file under \"\"Dual X Carriage\"\".\n\nBy default, all \"\"Dual X/Y/Z axis\"\" features use the first free extruder stepper driver - which would be E1 in your case.\n\nYou would have to adjust the X2 parameters to allow you to zero the motor on the endstop (X2_MIN_POS 0, X2_HOME_DIR -1, X2_HOME_POS X2_MIN_POS), as well as setting the default mode to \"\"FULL CONTROL\"\" (DEFAULT_DUAL_X_CARRIAGE_MODE DXC_FULL_CONTROL_MODE).\n\nAs far as I understand, you can then use\nT0 and T1 to change between both \"\"X axes\"\", with T0 selecting your real X axis, and T1 your custom stepper motor.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n10444,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sean McC.,2.528907649931287,3.5424424008133717,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,PETG on Ender 3,\"I've been trying to print some eSun PETG on my Ender 3 with some questionable results. I am experiencing severe stringing. Attached is a photo of my first layer. My settings are:\n\n\n250 °C hotend\n80 °C bed\n0.15 mm first layer\n0.2 mm layer height\nNo Z-hop/retraction\n40 mm/s print speed\n50 % fan speed\n\n\nAny suggestions?\n\",R..,\"It looks to me like you're using Cura with the default Ender 3 custom start gcode. The priming line there tries to cram about twice the amount of filament through the nozzle as what it should, so unless your material and temperature can handle really fast flow, you'll build up pressure in the bowden, the retraction before the move to start printing will fail to actually back the filament out enough to stop flow, and you'll get a string. This will continue until sufficient oozing has happened to dump all the excess filament.\n\nGoing back and forth over the same line is also problematic, as it will pick up any blobs that got dropped off the first time over, melt them on the nozzle, and drag them into the print area. PETG really hates that. Whereas with PLA it just tends to leave the junk stuck to the model somewhere, with PETG it'll get dragged around and break things off the build plate or the model.\n\nI replaced the priming part of the start gcode with:\n\nG1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position\nG1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F750.0 E18 ; Draw the first line\n\n\nNote that there is no second line.\n\nI also reduced the final retraction in the end gcode from 3mm to 1mm so that the filament is left in a position where it doesn't require a lot of advancement to start priming, comparable to what you get after loading filament manually. Otherwise, you need extra priming at the start to make up for the difference, and then after loading new filament you'll over-extrude during priming.\n\nOh, you also need retraction, regardless of material. I missed that you had it off. Anyone telling you to turn off retraction for your general settings is wrong as that will always cause stringing; it's just a matter of how much1.\n\n1 - see discussion in comments.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10551,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,todgers,2.1782824847157594,3.4776007666316793,0.0,5.199501240805782,2.3655567426522146,0.6444807912433421,Stop and continue 3D printing,\"How to successfully pause 3D printing and turn off the printer and the next day, continue to print the model?\n\",0scar,\"If you enable M413 in Marlin firmware, the printer will write a resume printing file to SD card e.g. every layer.\n\nFrom M413 - Power-loss Recovery documentation I quote:\n\n\n Enable or disable the Power-loss Recovery feature. When this feature is enabled, the state of the current print job (SD card only) will be saved to a file on the SD card. If the machine crashes or a power outage occurs, the firmware will present an option to Resume the interrupted print job. In Marlin 2.0 the POWER_LOSS_RECOVERY option must be enabled.\n \n This feature operates without a power-loss detection circuit by writing to the recovery file periodically (e.g., once per layer), or if a POWER_LOSS_PIN is configured then it will write the recovery info only when a power-loss is detected. The latter option is preferred, since constant writing to the SD card can shorten its life, and the print will be resumed where it was interrupted rather than repeating the last layer. (Future implementations may allow use of the EEPROM or the on-board SD card.)\n\n\nThis means if you cut the power you can resume the print layer, the only problem is that the part must remain attached to the plate, if it comes loose it is hard to resume printing. This feature is now commonly found on printers these days.\n\nThe regular pause and resume functionality of the printer will not work when the power is cut over night, i.e. no recovery file is written in such a case.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10551,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,todgers,2.1782824847157594,3.4776007666316793,0.0,5.199501240805782,2.3655567426522146,0.6444807912433421,Stop and continue 3D printing,\"How to successfully pause 3D printing and turn off the printer and the next day, continue to print the model?\n\",user77232,\"I recommend that you don't turn off the printer and resume the next day. If the heat bed cools down the part could become unstuck. The printer must be kept hot for the entire time that you need to print; unless it's PLA which tends to be more forgiving. Also Turning off the printer and turning it back on will cause it to loose it's position. Each time you home the axis of the printer it could home in a slightly different location. If you resumed the print under those conditions it would leave a clear line on the outer walls that is indicative of the layers not lining up properly. Lastly, if you let the nozzle ooze for period of time, you will have to purge the nozzle before you could print again. In this regard be prepared for some air printing for the first few movements. Depending on what you are printing, this could result in a build failure. \n\nNeedless to say, people have been able to recover a print under power off/failure conditions, but that's not a strategy to 3d printing. Those were mitigation efforts to exception cases.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10477,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Alex,2.1782824847157594,3.079570220207228,0.0,5.199501240805782,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,3D Print Enclosure,\"Developing an electronic product for which I'll need an enclosure. It's about 50x30x20mm and should survive higher temperatures (50-60 degrees). Because of the low volume (under 500 required per year), I'd like to go for an enclosure option that doesn't require a huge upfront cost. So ended up at 3d printing. As the product will retail for around 500$, the surface finish needs to be up to a higher quality than the standard pla prints that I've seen. From my own research (3d printing noob), the best material for this would be ABS. Maybe with some manual polishing at the end. Then I'd either buy a 3d printer and do it myself or find a company to do it.\n\nWhat am I missing? :)\n\nAnything I'm missing? Thanks a lot.\n\",towe,\"I recently started using ABS - while easily printable, you'll really want to use a filter or make sure to use the printer in a well ventilated area because of the fumes.\n\nWith your required temperature range of only 60°C, PETG would also be a viable as an easier and safer to print alternative. However, it is not smoothable with acetone like ABS is, though you can get very high-quality surface finish from the raw print if you build a decent printer.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10477,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Alex,2.1782824847157594,3.079570220207228,0.0,5.199501240805782,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,3D Print Enclosure,\"Developing an electronic product for which I'll need an enclosure. It's about 50x30x20mm and should survive higher temperatures (50-60 degrees). Because of the low volume (under 500 required per year), I'd like to go for an enclosure option that doesn't require a huge upfront cost. So ended up at 3d printing. As the product will retail for around 500$, the surface finish needs to be up to a higher quality than the standard pla prints that I've seen. From my own research (3d printing noob), the best material for this would be ABS. Maybe with some manual polishing at the end. Then I'd either buy a 3d printer and do it myself or find a company to do it.\n\nWhat am I missing? :)\n\nAnything I'm missing? Thanks a lot.\n\",Joel Coehoorn,\"ABS should be able to handle the the temperatures you describe. ABS will have a similar finish to PLA when it first comes off the printer, but you can refine and smooth your results via an acetone vapor treatment. This only takes a few minutes per piece, and can cost as little as a $1 bottle of fingernail polish remover, a used coffee can, a bit of wire, and some paper towels.\n\nWhat you're missing is the hobby-level 3D printers ($1000 and below) can be extremely finicky. You're not gonna get the kind of quality you need the first print out of the gate. Or the second. Probably not the third or fourth, either. And then you'll find every now and then something isn't quite right any more, and you'll need to troubleshoot why.\n\nYou certainly can make this work... just be prepared for what you're getting into.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10483,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Éngin,2.1782824847157594,3.4943961588206536,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.488653845767225,Extruder problem,\"When I am trying to print something on my home made 3D printer, I can print the first and second layer, then the Bowden extruder's gear starts slipping; it cannot push the filament anymore,the gear is turning but slipping; the filament cannot go forward.\n\nI tried all configurations of the tightening screw of the spring, corrected PID settings, cleaned the nozzle, tried with 200 °C up to 215 °C (I am using PLA) but no result.\n\nI am wondering whether this is related to speed, feedrate and acceleration settings. The Slic3r puts automatically a feedrate as F1800, is this too high ? Do I have to change it every time I slice something? I might proceed with trial and error method but I need a more rational method.\n\nAny suggestions?\n\n\n\nThe slicer I use (Slic3r) puts F1800 as speed. Is this too high ? Could this be a reason for the filament to slip ?\n\nMy filament's diameter is 1.75 mm. In the G-code file created by my slicer (Slic3r), the flows are shown as follows:\n\n; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.44mm (4.25mm^3/s) \n; perimeters extrusion width = 0.42mm (8.02mm^3/s) \n; infill extrusion width = 0.42mm (10.69mm^3/s) \n; solid infill extrusion width = 0.42mm (2.67mm^3/s) \n; top infill extrusion width = 0.42mm (2.00mm^3/s) \n; support material extrusion width = 0.44mm (8.50mm^3/s)\n\n\",Lars Pötter,\"I had such effects and fixed it by reducing the flow. It might be that your filament is thicker than it should be. Therefore too much filament ends up in the nozzle. Once the molten filament accumulates enough to rise to the cold end of the hot end it solidifies and nothing moves anymore -> clicking.\n\nSo either try to go with the Flow from 100% down to 96% or change the Filament width setting of the slicer. Both will have the same result of g-Codes that push less plastic. If you see under extrusion then you overdid it.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10483,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Éngin,2.1782824847157594,3.4943961588206536,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.488653845767225,Extruder problem,\"When I am trying to print something on my home made 3D printer, I can print the first and second layer, then the Bowden extruder's gear starts slipping; it cannot push the filament anymore,the gear is turning but slipping; the filament cannot go forward.\n\nI tried all configurations of the tightening screw of the spring, corrected PID settings, cleaned the nozzle, tried with 200 °C up to 215 °C (I am using PLA) but no result.\n\nI am wondering whether this is related to speed, feedrate and acceleration settings. The Slic3r puts automatically a feedrate as F1800, is this too high ? Do I have to change it every time I slice something? I might proceed with trial and error method but I need a more rational method.\n\nAny suggestions?\n\n\n\nThe slicer I use (Slic3r) puts F1800 as speed. Is this too high ? Could this be a reason for the filament to slip ?\n\nMy filament's diameter is 1.75 mm. In the G-code file created by my slicer (Slic3r), the flows are shown as follows:\n\n; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.44mm (4.25mm^3/s) \n; perimeters extrusion width = 0.42mm (8.02mm^3/s) \n; infill extrusion width = 0.42mm (10.69mm^3/s) \n; solid infill extrusion width = 0.42mm (2.67mm^3/s) \n; top infill extrusion width = 0.42mm (2.00mm^3/s) \n; support material extrusion width = 0.44mm (8.50mm^3/s)\n\n\",Davo,\"The PLA isn't advancing as fast as the gcode requires. Since you've already tried higher temperatures, try printing at half the speed (F value). If that works, try 3/4 of the original F value, etc., until you find the best feed rate at this temperature for your material, printer, and model.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n10883,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Éngin,2.1782824847157594,3.007463813452983,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Nozzle cleaning,\"A few minutes after finishing a print job, the filament is solidified in the nozzle and the nozzle-throat. When I start another print job a while later, the filament is not sufficiently melted and the nozzle is obstructed. Do I need to clean the nozzle after every print job ? or is there a practical method to overcome this difficulty ?\n\",Trish,\"To start a print, the printer has first get up to print temperature, re-melting the plastic in the nozzle and hotend. To get better results, it is usually a very good idea to \"\"prime\"\" the nozzle to make sure we have nicely melted plastic in the nozzle and pushed out the old. Some priming methods have been discussed here.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10883,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Éngin,2.1782824847157594,3.007463813452983,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Nozzle cleaning,\"A few minutes after finishing a print job, the filament is solidified in the nozzle and the nozzle-throat. When I start another print job a while later, the filament is not sufficiently melted and the nozzle is obstructed. Do I need to clean the nozzle after every print job ? or is there a practical method to overcome this difficulty ?\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"I had this issue until I started doing the following:\n\n\nIf you are going to print subsequent jobs (one after the other), then ensure you keep the extruder end at print temperature while you are preparing the next job. For me on my Anet A8, I'd just tell the printer to preheat for PLA (or directly set a temp for the filament being used). This keeps the heat up in the hot end and should allow you to start printing right away when everything is ready. Please note, this will usually cause the nozzle to ooze a little bit of filament as it sits. Just ensure you swipe it clean before you actually start the next print to alleviate and stringing issues when you press the \"\"GO\"\" button. As an alternative, you could attach a line at the end of your print which would send the G-code to keep the printer up to temperature instead of cooling off after a print is finished. If you do this, though, you have to ensure you actually do allow it to shut down when you aren't printing so as to not waste resources.\nIf you are not going to print subsequent jobs, pull the filament out of the extruder. On my Anet A8, right after the print has finished, but before things start cooling, I will press the spring loaded part of the extruder head (the part which captures the filament against the extruder gear), then push the filament into the extruder and quickly out. This usually ensures you don't leave a lot of filament languishing in the extruder head and will make it easier to load the filament the next time you want to print.\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10486,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,enthus1ast3d,1.0891412423578797,2.6202374972039784,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Sketchup designed object printing first layer incorrectly,\"I am a 3D printing beginner but wanted to get stuck in straight away and design my own 3D objects. I used Sketchup to design a badge of one of my logos. I make sure that all faces of my object are not inside out and show a white face in Sketchup. I also make my entire object a component before exporting into a .stl file. However, when I import into Ultimaker Cura, the base of the object is red. This to my understanding means there is an issue with that face.I have played around with Sketchup several times by not creating a component, reversing the face and I still have no luck. When I reverse the base face in Sketchup so that it is grey, it then shows up in Ultimaker Cura as okay (not red). But when I 3D print it, it still prints it very strangely. I would like to note I am 3D printing with a raft and when I do not use a raft, the object prints fine. Also I have tested printing a small 3D cube with the same settings and the results are exactly the same. Surely you can design objects in Sketchup and print with a raft?\n\n\n\n\n\",0scar,\"A red surface coloring is normal for the bottom when viewed in Ultimaker Cura, nothing to worry about that (e.i. when that face is touching the build plate; if it is unsupported, you should add support structures but a raft is generally not necessary for PLA).\n\nRafts are useful when you print high temperature materials that have a large shrinkage when cooled from print to bed temperature (this somewhat mitigates the problems of curling up corners or warping prints), for PLA it is not needed. As seen from the print that is printed on the raft, it's clear that the print to raft distance is to large, the first print object layer is not adhering to the top raft layer very well.\n\nThe print that is printed without a raft doesn't look too bad. Some printer extruder calibration could further improve the quality.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10486,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,enthus1ast3d,1.0891412423578797,2.6202374972039784,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Sketchup designed object printing first layer incorrectly,\"I am a 3D printing beginner but wanted to get stuck in straight away and design my own 3D objects. I used Sketchup to design a badge of one of my logos. I make sure that all faces of my object are not inside out and show a white face in Sketchup. I also make my entire object a component before exporting into a .stl file. However, when I import into Ultimaker Cura, the base of the object is red. This to my understanding means there is an issue with that face.I have played around with Sketchup several times by not creating a component, reversing the face and I still have no luck. When I reverse the base face in Sketchup so that it is grey, it then shows up in Ultimaker Cura as okay (not red). But when I 3D print it, it still prints it very strangely. I would like to note I am 3D printing with a raft and when I do not use a raft, the object prints fine. Also I have tested printing a small 3D cube with the same settings and the results are exactly the same. Surely you can design objects in Sketchup and print with a raft?\n\n\n\n\n\",R..,\"Note: This answer is curently wrong because I mentally reversed your \"\"with raft\"\" and \"\"without raft\"\" columns. I'll attempt to fix it soon.\n\nThis doesn't look like a problem with your model, but rather a problem with your bed height or slicer settings (possibly both) that may be affecting your particular model worse than others. It's clear from the photo of the bottom of your print that the extrusions that were supposed to be circular failed to adhere to the bed, and instead got pulled to chords between points they happened to adhere at. This could be caused by a mix of:\n\n\nExcessive print speed for the first layer. Generally I would limit it to 30 mm/s or less to give the material the best chance to stick.\nExcess space between the nozzle and bed. Could be caused by improper adjustment of bed height (\"\"leveling\"\"), or by using a layer thickness that's too high (roughly, more than 75-80% of nozzle width).\nUnderextrusion, possibly caused by insufficient print temperature, incorrect filament diameter setting, or poor quality filament with wrong diameter, among other things.\n\n\nUsing a raft mitigates these things by moving the potential problem to the interface between the raft and the bed; once there's a raft sticking to the bed, printing of the model can ignore the problem. But you should never need a raft. It's a waste of plastic and a workaround for problems that have better fixes, not a necessary part of 3D printing.\n\nThe \"\"red\"\" in Cura is not a problem; as I understand it, Cura shows all parts of the model that aren't supported by other parts of the model in red, and this includes the base. However, it is possible that your model has some stray part extruding below the bottom, causing the whole thing (except that stray part) to be printed starting one layer above the print bed with nothing to adhere to. You can check if this is the case in Cura by switching to layer view and looking at the first layer. You should see the whole surface that you want to adhere to the bed; if instead you see just one or a few small blobs, that's your problem.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10488,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,GCODE2,1.726248027126092,3.241349471920412,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,How to write arcs directly in G-code?,\"How can I write G-code for a triangle without sharp tips?\n\n\n\nI want to generate the corners manually, rather than using a slicer to generate them, just to know how it is done.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"Marlin has G2 (clockwise arc) and G3 (counterclockwise arc) commands that could be used to do this. You can find detailed documentation for the command here.\n\nBasically, you can use\n\n\n G2 R1 X5 Y5\n\n\nto draw a (clockwise) arc from the current position to $(X,Y)=(5,5)$ with a radius of $1$.\n\nSo, your rounded triangle could be drawn with 3 straight line moves and 3 arc moves. Figuring out the exact coordinates for each move would be a quite challenging geometry exercise, as you'd need to know where the straight line portion of each side ends and the rounded portion starts.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n10488,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,GCODE2,1.726248027126092,3.241349471920412,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,How to write arcs directly in G-code?,\"How can I write G-code for a triangle without sharp tips?\n\n\n\nI want to generate the corners manually, rather than using a slicer to generate them, just to know how it is done.\n\",Trish,\"First, convert the given measurements into a sketch...\n\n\n\nG-code shenanigans\n\nwe actually have the printer do circles.. let's plot that out...\n\n\n\nUsing that, it's easy to write the G-code using the Documentation for G1 and G2. You'll have to add the E values to extrude something along the paths, but your sketch would turn into this path:\n\nG92 X0 Y0 ; the current position is now (0,0) on the XY\nG90 ;Abolute mode for everything...\nM83 ;...but for the E-argument, so you can just put the length into the extrusions that are to be done\nG0 X10.66 Y2 \nG2 R5 X6.33 Y9.5 ; Alternate: G3 I0 J5 X6.33 Y9.5\nG1 X45.66 Y77.638 \nG2 R5 X54.33 Y77.638 ; Alternate: G3 I4.33 Y-2.5 X54.33 Y77.638\nG1 93.67 Y9.5\nG2 R5 X89.33 Y2 ; Alternate: G3 I-4.33 Y-2.5 X89.33 Y2\nG1 X10.66 Y2\nG0 X0 Y0\nG91 ; return to relative coordinates\n\n\nThis code has to be prefixed by a move to where you want to start the pattern and will not know if you move it off the build plate, so keep 100 mm X and 87 mm in Y of the allowable build plate. It will end exactly where you started it.\n\nIterative approach\n\nIn many uses of g-code, rounded corners are actually n-gons with a very high number n. then we only need G1 and can easily calculate the length of the stretches and fill in the G1. We need to iterate down to somewhat circular...\n\nLet's start iterating with n=3 aka a triangle, which gives a direct line over the corner gives this:\n\n\n\ngoing to n=6 (hexagon) follows the curve a lot better...\n\n\n\ngoing to n=12 looks almost round on a larger scale...\n\n\n\nand when we reach n=24, we are pretty close to the circle..\n\n\n\nAnd as we go above n=6, we also get easier math for the corners, as we always get the same lengths of movement along X and Y just swapped around due to symmetry.\n\nWith all these stretches defined, we could start to work in relative coordinates easily, again without E, and only for the bottom left corner:\n\nG0 X10.66 Y2 \nG1 X-1.294 Y0.17\nG1 X-1.206 Y0.5\nG1 X-1.036 Y0.795\nG1 X-0.795 X1.036\nG1 X-0.5 Y1.206\nG1 X-0.17 Y1.294\nG1 X0.17 Y1.294\nG1 X0.5 Y1.036\n...\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10505,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user236012,1.0891412423578797,3.3519732380519804,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Rough surface when printing,\"Is there a specific name for that problem? What causes this, and is there a way how to solve it? \n\nPrinted with PLA, 2 mm nozzle diameter, 0.2 mm layer height, 20-60 mm/s, 200 °C extruder, 60 °C bed.\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\",cmm,\"I have experienced this problem. This picture is one that I could have taken. \n\nIt has always been because I was putting too much plastic into the available space.\n\nThis has been caused two things: overextrusion -- squirting out too much plastic for the intended layer height, and the bed being too \"\"high\"\" so that the gap between the nozzle and the bed is too thin.\n\nIn both cases, too much plastic is trying to be placed in too small a volume. The plastic has to go somewhere, and ripples follow. Because the nozzle rubs against the adjacent lines which have already been deposited, an up-bump pushes up the nozzle on the line beside the bump, and a coherent pattern of ripples can form.\n\nThe \"\"bump up\"\" is a real effect from the elasticity of the Z-axis, including all the resulting strains of twisting and lifting the nozzle.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10505,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user236012,1.0891412423578797,3.3519732380519804,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Rough surface when printing,\"Is there a specific name for that problem? What causes this, and is there a way how to solve it? \n\nPrinted with PLA, 2 mm nozzle diameter, 0.2 mm layer height, 20-60 mm/s, 200 °C extruder, 60 °C bed.\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\",dracotdragon,\"This could be a number of things, I personally think it could be either over extrusion or an issue with one of the belts. Depending on the printer, you may need to manually go in and adjust your steps per millimeter, which you should be able to find a guide on. If that doesn't work, then look into belt tension adjustment. Hope this is able to help! I like to use the Simplify3D Print Quality Guide for situations like this, it tends to be very useful.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10508,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jeroen3,1.0891412423578797,2.9547933789762357,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,TPE warping problems,\"I'm attempting to print some flexible TPE filament. But I failed to imagine TPE was this difficult to print.\n\nSpecs of the shop-brand filament:\nRed 1.75 mm TPE (+-0.05 mm).\nHardness: 45D.\nPrint temperature: 220-260 °C with 0-95 °C bed.\n\nI'm trying to print this on my original Prusa i3 MK3S with powder coated sheet with 0.20 mm layer with PrusaSlicer 2.0.0.\n\nWhat happens? After 3 or 4 layers, the print warps a lot and detaches from the plate. The object is 40 mm long. The next image shows the print detaching from the build plate as well as a skirt of two layers height:\n\n\n\nI've tried warmer/colder, more/less fan, faster/slower. I went down to 1 mm3/s, which is 7 mm/s. For reference, PLA prints 15 mm3/s.\n\nI readjusted my z-cal, and when I test print a first layer with TPE it's difficult to remove from the bed.\n\nI also attempted the glue stick on smooth PEI sheet. Worked until the first few layers of infill, then it still warped.\n\nDo I have bad filament with too much shrink, poor settings or is this 45D just too soft for my MK3s? \n\nBonus pile of failures:\n\n\",Jeroen3,\"I have not given up yet!\n\nAnd I figured it out, I think. I tried many things, dried the spool at 60C for an hour, Simplifiy3D's slicer, but eventually playing around I found a setting that resulting in no warping during the print.\n\nFinal solution:\n- Original Prusa Powder Coated sheet.\n- Changed the nozzle to 0.6 mm.\n- 20 mm/s print speed, slow.\n- 260 C nozzle temp, make it liquid to get best bed adhesion.\n- 90 C bed, this keeps it soft at the bottom. Do not change the temperature, as this will detach the print.\n- 0.95 Extrusion Multiplier instead of 1.2 \n\nThe extrusion multiplier did the trick. It kept pushing slightly too much stuff out, especially on the bottom layers causing ridges that is will pull on the next layer.\nIt did still warp a bit, I found that this stuff shrinks about 2% when cooled, and when you start infill, it will pull itself loose. Hence the 90C bed temp.\n\n\n\nIt still prints poorly, but it did print without creating \"\"the blob\"\"!\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n10509,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Oliver Giesen,1.0891412423578797,3.502641775239062,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,How would you clean/prepare a flexible/magnetic mat (e.g. Ender 5) as compared to a glass bed?,\"I have started printing about a month ago on an Ender 5 (using mostly PLA but recently also PETG) and it seems it's about time to give the print bed a more thorough cleaning than what I usually do after most prints. I'm using the flexible magnetic mat that came with the printer which has a slightly rough surface, but all of the cleaning suggestions I found so far either did not mention the bed material or were specifically for glass beds.\n\nCan/should I use stuff like acetone or rubbing alcohol on this? Or should I stick to warm soap water?\nI have had some fairly decent results with spectacle cleaning tissues but that will only remove grease, not filament residue.\n\nAlso, I am occasionally having some first layer adhesion issues (especially with the PETG or when printing things with a circular base) and I was wondering whether common suggestions like glue sticks or hairspray to prepare the bed for printing can also be applied to the flex mat?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Just about every reference I've seen for non-glass beds is to stay away from acetone. Denatured alcohol is likely a safe bet for beds with surfaces that are not impenetrable. If you can identify the bed material, you'll have a better shot at getting a definitive answer.\n\nIf you have filament residue, you won't get it clear without some mechanical effort, unless you had an adhesive layer between the bed and the filament. Even a plastic scraper can be effective in clearing the debris.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10509,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Oliver Giesen,1.0891412423578797,3.502641775239062,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,How would you clean/prepare a flexible/magnetic mat (e.g. Ender 5) as compared to a glass bed?,\"I have started printing about a month ago on an Ender 5 (using mostly PLA but recently also PETG) and it seems it's about time to give the print bed a more thorough cleaning than what I usually do after most prints. I'm using the flexible magnetic mat that came with the printer which has a slightly rough surface, but all of the cleaning suggestions I found so far either did not mention the bed material or were specifically for glass beds.\n\nCan/should I use stuff like acetone or rubbing alcohol on this? Or should I stick to warm soap water?\nI have had some fairly decent results with spectacle cleaning tissues but that will only remove grease, not filament residue.\n\nAlso, I am occasionally having some first layer adhesion issues (especially with the PETG or when printing things with a circular base) and I was wondering whether common suggestions like glue sticks or hairspray to prepare the bed for printing can also be applied to the flex mat?\n\",CrossRoads,\"I have the WhamBam system which uses a PEX layer over flex steel (which sticks to a magnetic sheet on the printer bed). To clean old material off, I use a \"\"brass sponge\"\" intended for cleaning soldering iron tips to remove the old plastic, then give it a wipe with a paper towel with some isopropyl alchohol (I have 99.99 anhydrous on hand as I use that for cleaning printed circuit boards as well).\n\nThe brass sponge is fairly soft, does a good job of grabbing the old plastic without tearing up the PEX layer.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10524,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Oliver Giesen,1.0891412423578797,3.914854869016704,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,What exactly is the relationship between Flow/Feed Rate and (Print) Speed?,\"Newbie alert...\nOn my Ender-5, when I go into the \"\"Tune\"\" menu during a print and adjust the \"\"Speed\"\" value, that value will later be shown in the display next to a label saying \"\"FR\"\". I can also adjust that value by simply turning the knob during printing (and thus started to think of it as the \"\"speed dial\"\" ;) ).\n\nAs far as I was able to tell so far, the \"\"FR\"\" percentage value is being applied to all four stepper motor movements and thus allows me to slow down or speed up printing on-the-fly, e.g. to make up for sub-optimal speed settings chosen during slicing (after all, I'm still learning).\n\nI only recently learned that FR is actually short for \"\"Flow Rate\"\" (or is it \"\"Feed Rate\"\"?) and that seems to imply that this is probably about more than just motor speed... Also, there seems to be no equivalent to the Speed setting in Octoprint: All I have on the Control tab are two distinct sliders for \"\"Feedrate\"\" and \"\"Flowrate\"\". Would I always have to move both to achieve the same effect?\n\nCan anyone clarify? What implications of changing FR/Speed might I be missing?\n\",towe,\"By turning the knob in the main screen, you're adjusting \"\"feed rate\"\".\nThis is essentially a factor that all g-code speed settings are multiplied with - \"\"speed dial\"\" seems an appropriate name for it.\n\n\"\"Flow rate\"\" is something different altogether - this is multiplied with the extrusion commands. It has the same effect as changing your extruders steps-per-mm.\nYou can adjust under- / overextrusion with this on the fly.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n10683,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Oliver Giesen,3.452496054252184,5.090262486373639,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,4.376800063013361,3.4319460411998994,Why keep the bed heated after initial layer(s) with PLA (or PETG)?,\"I'm printing on an Ender 5 with the default flex/magnetic build surface.\nI read that PLA and PETG may sometimes be printed without any bed heating at all and also that bed heating is the main contributor to the power consumption of a printer.\n\nAs I do see that bed heating definitely helps with the first layer adhesion I did not want to turn it off completely, but I did start experimenting with turning off bed heating after all solid bottom layers have printed (using the ChangeAtZ script in Cura) and so far I haven't seen any negative effects, especially no warping (I am usually printing with a brim or raft; I think that might also help in that regard).\n\nAm I missing something? Why is anyone keeping the bed heated for an entire print?\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"There are three reasons (I can think of):\n\n\nA large problem you'd face with allowing the bed to cool after first layer is you stand the chance of losing adhesion after it cools. When you heat the bed, it expands somewhat. When it cools it contracts. It has been known for parts to actually pop off the bed if left on there to cool (after a print). If you allow the bed to cool fully, you could ruin a print due to it losing the adhesion, popping off the bed, then the printer keeps on going. \nWhen you're dealing with 0.1 mm layer height, that's not a lot of wiggle room. When you level your bed before printing, it should be done after everything is heated. If you were to turn off the bed after you start printing, you could very easily shift the bed enough to take up the worth of an entire layer, which means your print has adjusted and will then have major imperfections. This isn't a given, but definitely a concern ... especially for larger or taller prints.\nWhether PLA or PETG, the extruded filament needs to have heat in order to stay. This is not only heat in the extruder, but heat in the print itself. If the print cools off, this could affect subsequent adhesion for the filament getting laid down. If you turn the bed heater off after print start, you'll lose that heated environment. The print will cool off and you'll start seeing variations in the print, which, if the print is large enough, would most likely be more noticable. Think of it as a heated environment, not just putting piling host plastic on top of each other.\n\n\nThere may be other reasons, but I believe these are very good reasons not to turn your bed off after print start. If you are worried your power supply isn't providing enough power, then get a bigger power supply. If you're worried about power consumption overall, once the bed is heated, consumption goes way down (as @r_ahlskog stated in their answer). \n\",3.7511513460834345,2.0769199823829045\n10683,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Oliver Giesen,3.452496054252184,5.090262486373639,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,4.376800063013361,3.4319460411998994,Why keep the bed heated after initial layer(s) with PLA (or PETG)?,\"I'm printing on an Ender 5 with the default flex/magnetic build surface.\nI read that PLA and PETG may sometimes be printed without any bed heating at all and also that bed heating is the main contributor to the power consumption of a printer.\n\nAs I do see that bed heating definitely helps with the first layer adhesion I did not want to turn it off completely, but I did start experimenting with turning off bed heating after all solid bottom layers have printed (using the ChangeAtZ script in Cura) and so far I haven't seen any negative effects, especially no warping (I am usually printing with a brim or raft; I think that might also help in that regard).\n\nAm I missing something? Why is anyone keeping the bed heated for an entire print?\n\",flounder,\"For long prints, if turning off bed heating saves money, throwing out the filament from a detached print costs you more. The risk to gain ratio is very skewed. The “savings” in turning off the bed are considerably negative, and, as pointed out, the risk of losing the print is increased.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10512,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Muscipula,1.0891412423578797,2.2555978600897375,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Tryinng to get CAELinux to boot,\"I believe that CAELinux has successfully installed on a SD card on a laptop. When I rebooted what I am left with is a GRUB prompt. If I enter the chainloader command it expects things like the device name of the linux image. I really want to know if CAELinux has installed and if it runs OK. Then I shall learn more about GRUB because I have another distribution that I am interested in.\n\nHow can I simply start CAELinux from the GRUB prompt?\n\",Lucas Ramage,\"Per the Getting Started page,\n\n\n As CAELinux is a customized Xubuntu 16.04 distribution, the installation instructions (and then administration) for Xubuntu/Ubuntu all apply to CAELinux.\n For more instructions on how to install CAELinux on hard drive, please follow the Ubuntu instructions here: https://help.ubuntu.com/community/GraphicalInstall\n\n\nBased on the information provided above, I think this question is off-topic for this site, and should be migrated to either Unix & Linux, or Ask Ubuntu.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10513,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,steve antwan,1.726248027126092,3.4902357941306694,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,\"How can I add an extra fan, controlled by a microcontroller, to my board?\",\"I recently discovered this kit after reading this Instructables, Adding More Extruders to Any 3d Printer: \n\n\n \n\n\nI'm pretty sure I can use this kit with my board since it uses the same drivers as mine. But that's for motors, not fans. And while I know G-code pretty well, I'm not sure how I would use this to activate and deactivate a fan from G-code. There is probably a better way to do this.\n\nThe board I am using is from an FLSUN Large Scale 3D printer. Here is a picture of the board: \n\n\n\nThere appears to be only one labeled pin for the fan. BUT even if there are other pins that I don't recognize, they would have to be controlled by a micro controller (G-code commands). There appear to be a bunch of un-used pins in the bottom right of the board. But if this board just can't do it, there is a newer board here: [link removed]. \n\nIt does seem like it is using Arduino and the newer board might have extra pins for a fan. But at that point, would it be easier (cheaper) to just control the fan from the extruder extender kit? Would I just set it as an extruder with a really high filament extrusion speed and send appropriate G-code commands when needed to run it at max voltage?\n\nI know on my Lulzbot Mini there is a \"\"parts cooling\"\" fan which allows you to cool off the layers as your structure rises vertically. This is a fan I want. The parts cooling fan must be controlled by the micro controller. It only comes on when printing vertically.\n\nI would like to actually add two fans like this to my 3D printer. One of them is a >= 5 V cooling fan like above. Another is a regular 12 V cooling fan for an extra extruder that I am adding.\n\",Trish,\"The MKS Gen L v1.0 Board you are using does support microcontroller controlled fans without doing some surface level modification to the board via the D9/FAN. The port you marked FAN is not a controllable port, it runs a direct 12/24 V all the time and should be used for the Hotend cooling solution. The ports D7/HE1 and D10/HE0 are for two hotendes, corresponding to E0 and E1.\n\n\n\nVariant A: Swappy Fans\n\nThis is the more tricky variant and does need both coding and wiring expertise.\n\nYou'll have to run both hotend cooling fans via that one port in the top left corner. Make sure they are running fast enough to keep the heatsinks cool and prevent heat creep!\n\nYour custom Firmware will have to define D9 as a microcontroller controlled Fan instead of a 100 % running fan as the normal firmware is most likely.\n\nWithout extra hardware, you can't get 2 individually controllable ports from D9, but you can use, the fact that you don't want part cooling for a hotends in 'resting' position. So a pair of couple Normally Closed switches cab achieve disabling of the resting hotend's part cooling fan:\n\n\nmake a wire splitter for D9, so that you have both + and both --wires connect to the one +/--pin on the board. You'll have the part cooling fans in parallel now. \n\n\nDo the same for the Hotend Cooling Fans!\n\nconnect each +-line to a Normally Closed switch, which is installed on the hotend in a way so it triggers and opens the line if the hotend is in the resting (homing) position.\nAs the line connects when the hotend moves into the build volume, the part cooling fan on the currently active hotend starts to spin while the one of the non-active hotend is isolated.\n\n\nVariant B: MOSFETs and Safety\n\nAn alternate source for the part cooling fan signals might be the SERVOS1/SERVOS2 group, where D4 to D6 and D11 are accessible. This leaves the FAN and top-left 12 V pinnings free for the hotend cooling. The downside is, that these pins don't likely provide 12 V but at best a 5 V digital output. However, a 0 to 5 V signal can be used to control a separate MOSFET which outputs 0 to 12 V, which then can power the part cooling fans. Due to the power draw of the Fans, a simple step-up converter is not a solution it needs a separate power supply.\n\nThe Main benefit is, that this does draw less power from the board than Variant A and does not re-pin D9. The \"\"Cooling Fan Board\"\" could use a 6-line ribbon cable to connect to the SERVOS1 pins, using the 5V as reference for the MOSFETs, D4/D5 as the trigger signal and GND as return lines.\n\nA pre-assembled board that could serve in this position would be a L298N Driver. Due to how it is set up, one could run both part cooling fans, if their speed is set up to be always equal.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n10513,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,steve antwan,1.726248027126092,3.4902357941306694,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,\"How can I add an extra fan, controlled by a microcontroller, to my board?\",\"I recently discovered this kit after reading this Instructables, Adding More Extruders to Any 3d Printer: \n\n\n \n\n\nI'm pretty sure I can use this kit with my board since it uses the same drivers as mine. But that's for motors, not fans. And while I know G-code pretty well, I'm not sure how I would use this to activate and deactivate a fan from G-code. There is probably a better way to do this.\n\nThe board I am using is from an FLSUN Large Scale 3D printer. Here is a picture of the board: \n\n\n\nThere appears to be only one labeled pin for the fan. BUT even if there are other pins that I don't recognize, they would have to be controlled by a micro controller (G-code commands). There appear to be a bunch of un-used pins in the bottom right of the board. But if this board just can't do it, there is a newer board here: [link removed]. \n\nIt does seem like it is using Arduino and the newer board might have extra pins for a fan. But at that point, would it be easier (cheaper) to just control the fan from the extruder extender kit? Would I just set it as an extruder with a really high filament extrusion speed and send appropriate G-code commands when needed to run it at max voltage?\n\nI know on my Lulzbot Mini there is a \"\"parts cooling\"\" fan which allows you to cool off the layers as your structure rises vertically. This is a fan I want. The parts cooling fan must be controlled by the micro controller. It only comes on when printing vertically.\n\nI would like to actually add two fans like this to my 3D printer. One of them is a >= 5 V cooling fan like above. Another is a regular 12 V cooling fan for an extra extruder that I am adding.\n\",towe,\"You can use the M42 g-code to manually set any supported digital pin, which can then be used to either enable one of the on-board MOSFETs (D7, D8, D9, D10) or an external MOSFET.\nFor example, M42 P9 S255 would enable the parts cooling fan at 100 %.\n\nYou should never run any fan or heater directly off of a microcontroller pin (the ATmega2560 on your board supports up to 40 mA. Standard 5 V fans I found online tend to draw 100 mA or more).\n\nYour board supports up to four switchable \"\"power\"\" outputs - bed, heater 0, heater 1 and FAN.\nDepending on what you use so far, one of those may be usable for your fans.\n\nNote that on-board MOSFETs usually switch the ground side of the connected device.\nThis means that you for your 12 V fan, you can connect it directly to one of those connectors.\nThe 5 V would have to receive +5 V from elsewhere (like the +5 V pins near the bottom right mounting hole), but you can still control the fan by connecting its ground lead over one of the on-board MOSFETs.\n\nIf four MOSFETs are not enough for you, the L298N module provides an easy way to control four additional fans, while using normal digital pins to control the L298N.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10585,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,steve antwan,2.1782824847157594,3.241349471920412,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.6229190288168605,Wiring Z-stop directly to hot end and aluminum bed / spacers,\"So I am really fed up with inductive probes. The one I am using keeps getting shifted slightly every time I switch nozzles or run an oozy print. That means I have to autolevel again, then manually set a Z-offset (as I would have anyway if I didn't have an inductive probe).\n\nOn my Lulzbot Mini there is a different scenario. There are four washers at each part of the bed. The nozzle is \"\"grounded\"\" so that when the Mini touches the washers, a current is created that seems to act as the Z-stop. Surprisingly there isn't much out there for a DIY implementation of this.\n\nSince I have an aluminum bed (and aluminum is conductive), I am thinking of doing the following:\n\n1) Put one wire from the Z-stop ground pin to the aluminum bed. Make sure it is away from the wires for the heater / thermister (?)\n\n2) Put one wire from the Z-stop 5V into the heating block of my nozzle.\n\nWhen the nozzle probes the bed, a current will be created from the 5V heating block, through the conductive nozzle, into the conductive bed, to the Z-stop ground.\n\nI'm always unsure when it comes to circuitry. Will there be any dangerous interference from this technique from, say, the bed heating circuit? I'm not sure what kind of protection circuitry are on each of the Arduino's pins, and I'd rather not fry my board if this sounds like a bad idea to someone.\n\nI figure most people don't do this because they have sheets of PEI or some other non-conductive material on their bed. I can use PET tape but still leave holes in the tape for this autobed leveling probe. It would be really great if it worked and wasn't dangerous. \n\nI shouldn't even need the third pin?\n\",cmm,\"This will not work reliably.\n\nI know, I have tried it, for a couple of years, with poor consistency.\n\nNow, I will tell you that it worked better than the parallax IR sensors. It worked better than trying to slam the head into the bed and listen for the click.\n\nI used the brass nozzle and the aluminum bed as a switch to detect the bed position.\n\nI used ABS slurry on the bed. With a 100°C bed the ABS was soft enough for the nozzle to make contact. Elmer's Glue for PLA also was soft enough.\n\nBut, with the elasticity I had in the synthetic Z-axis of the delta machine, the time delay to much the bed adhesive out of the way, and the general problem of trying to conduct electricity through an aluminum oxide layer, I had variability of about 0.1 mm, which was far to much to give a reliable first layer.\n\nTo \"\"level\"\" the delta bed, I would touch each point several times (with a clean bed) and fit my leveling function to the noisy data. For finding my zero reference at the beginning of a print, I would touch off three time and only use the third one. This helped, but it was still super noisy.\n\nI have subsequently incorporated a strain gauge in the triangular delta-bit. It gives much more accurate contact information and is not effected by the bed glue not does the aluminum oxide layer cause problems.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10585,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,steve antwan,2.1782824847157594,3.241349471920412,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.6229190288168605,Wiring Z-stop directly to hot end and aluminum bed / spacers,\"So I am really fed up with inductive probes. The one I am using keeps getting shifted slightly every time I switch nozzles or run an oozy print. That means I have to autolevel again, then manually set a Z-offset (as I would have anyway if I didn't have an inductive probe).\n\nOn my Lulzbot Mini there is a different scenario. There are four washers at each part of the bed. The nozzle is \"\"grounded\"\" so that when the Mini touches the washers, a current is created that seems to act as the Z-stop. Surprisingly there isn't much out there for a DIY implementation of this.\n\nSince I have an aluminum bed (and aluminum is conductive), I am thinking of doing the following:\n\n1) Put one wire from the Z-stop ground pin to the aluminum bed. Make sure it is away from the wires for the heater / thermister (?)\n\n2) Put one wire from the Z-stop 5V into the heating block of my nozzle.\n\nWhen the nozzle probes the bed, a current will be created from the 5V heating block, through the conductive nozzle, into the conductive bed, to the Z-stop ground.\n\nI'm always unsure when it comes to circuitry. Will there be any dangerous interference from this technique from, say, the bed heating circuit? I'm not sure what kind of protection circuitry are on each of the Arduino's pins, and I'd rather not fry my board if this sounds like a bad idea to someone.\n\nI figure most people don't do this because they have sheets of PEI or some other non-conductive material on their bed. I can use PET tape but still leave holes in the tape for this autobed leveling probe. It would be really great if it worked and wasn't dangerous. \n\nI shouldn't even need the third pin?\n\",steve antwan,\"Edit: i recommend using some conductive felt\n\nThe top of the aluminum bed is not conductive, but the sides of it are. You can re-create the Lulzbot Mini endstop set-up by connecting the Z-stop ground to the side of the aluminum bed, then using binder clips and nickels as the \"\"washers\"\". In my case I had to use quarters because my bed was really big and the extruder came down far from its edges.\n\nTo do this, you'll need:\n\n\nA multimeter and a >100 Ohm resistor for safety\nSome nickels (or any conductive coin)\nSome binder clips (with steel insides)\nSome aluminum foil (increases reliability of setup)\nA Z end-stop\n\n\nBuilding conductive washer perimeter\n\nCreate a conductive washer system along the sides of your aluminum bed by:\n\n\nWrapping a nickel-sized amount of aluminum foil on the bottom, side, and top of the bed\nPlacing a nickel on top of that aluminum foil on the bedttop\nPlacing a steel-inside binder clip to hold down the nickel\n\nDo this multiple times along the perimeter of the bed. It seems you are limited to an evenly-spaced grid structure by the software. In my case I placed the washers at: \n\n\nX = 0, Y = 0\nX = 0.5 * Max_X, Y=0\nX = Max_X, Y = 0\nX = 0, Y = Max_Y\nX = 0.5*Max_X, Y = 0.5 * Max_Y\nX = Max_X, Y = Max_X\n\n\nThe aluminum foil provides a contact between the side of the bed and the top and bottom of it. The binder clip can be pressed inwards against the aluminum foil to ensure high reliability. However, the binder clip can get loose. So, using aluminum foil helps make the bottom of the bed conductive too, increasing the surface area of the contact for the binder clip.\n\nAttaching red wire to hot end\n\nAttach the red part of the Z-endstop to your heatblock. It must be in the heatblock somewhere. The thermister hole might work. For me, I was able to slide it in a small space that's used to tighten the screw that holds the heat rod. \n\nNow we want to attach the Z-stop ground (black wire) to the conductive perimeter. \n\nBefore attaching Z-stop ground underneath one of the binder clips, a word of caution...\n\nThe first time I did this, I stupidly placed a binder clip on top of the 12V heat rod attached to the bottom of the aluminum bed. This put all sides of the aluminum bed (and my conductive washers) at 12V, which created a short into the Z-stop ground pin when I connected it. This resulted in my Z-stop ground pin SMOKING up from the heat going through it. As a word of precaution, you should attach a resistor between the Z-stop ground pin and the side of the aluminum bed should something go wrong in the future. I used a 2.1 kOhm resistor I had laying around. This will limit the current going into the Z-stop ground pin. Since everyone's aluminum bed will be different (for e.g. the bottom of my bed is non-conductive, but yours might be conductive), it is really important to be careful here. \n\nBefore powering on, test to see that all of the nickels have low resistance between them. Test to see that the hot end nozzle is connected to the Z-stop red wire. Use a multimeter for this.\n\nIf you don't have a resistor, wait to attach the Z-stop ground before powering on. This will let you check the voltage to tell if your aluinum bed sides are connected to the 12V heat rod. After that, you can power off and attach the Z-stop ground and power on again.\n\nSetting up the software\n\nIf you've flashed your firmware before, setting up the software is easy. Go to the \"\"AUTO_BED\"\" section of Configuration.h. First thing to do is to set your Z-offset to about 2.0mm and remove any existing offsets you might've had for a Z-probe (for e.g. X_PROBE_OFFSET... = -40 was set for me). The Z-offset should be set to a positive value this time. Don't forget to change this setting in EEPROM if you set itas well!\n\nSince I'm only probing the perimeter, I use BILINEAR bed leveling for this one. Bilinear calculates points automatically for me, so I had to set up my perimeter according to an evenly spaced grid like I listed in \"\"Building conductive washer perimeter\"\".\n\nFirst I activated AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR\n\nAnd my IF tree looks like: \n\n#if ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR) || ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR)\n\n // Set the number of grid points per dimension.\n #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 3\n #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y 2\n\n // Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).\n #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 1\n #define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 264\n #define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 1\n #define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 264\n\n // The Z probe minimum outer margin (to validate G29 parameters).\n #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 0\n\n // Probe along the Y axis, advancing X after each column\n //#define PROBE_Y_FIRST\n\n #if ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR)\n\n // Beyond the probed grid, continue the implied tilt?\n // Default is to maintain the height of the nearest edge.\n\n #define EXTRAPOLATE_BEYOND_GRID\n //\n // Experimental Subdivision of the grid by Catmull-Rom method.\n // Synthesizes intermediate points to produce a more detailed mesh.\n //\n #define ABL_BILINEAR_SUBDIVISION\n #if ENABLED(ABL_BILINEAR_SUBDIVISION)\n // Number of subdivisions between probe points\n #define BILINEAR_SUBDIVISIONS 3\n #endif\n\n #endif\n#elif // other bed leveling trees\n\n\nFeel free to disable EXTRAPOLATE_BEYOND_GRID and BILINEAR_SUBDIVISIONS because they might not be necessary for you.\n\nTime to autobed level\n\nOf course, even with all that work, you're still going to want to be able to power off your 3D printer if it doesn't recognize even one of the nickels. So stay close to your power source and be sure to power it off safely if it doesn't recognize one of your contacts or if something comes loose. For example one of my coins was very dirty and yea, it made a huge difference in that corner, so I had to swap it out. \n\nLast but not least, if you have some extra binder clips, you can enable the \"\"Nozzle cleaning\"\" feature in Configuration.h, just by binder-clipping the dark-green layer of a sponge to the board. Then just set the X-Y coordinates of that layer in the nozzle_clean feature in Configuration.h and make your life a lot easier. These two features working well together basically mean you don't have to do anything between multiple prints except remove the prints from the bed. \n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n10596,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,steve antwan,3.0576060275493275,4.626678300681091,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,What is this called? A tube flange bearing threaded for threaded pushrod,\"How should I describe this part which looks like a threaded flange so that I can research replacements? It is the gold piece in the middle of each photo. It is used to create a bed raiser in the FLSUN Cube 3D printer.\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIt gets attached to a motor using a flexible bearing\n\",0scar,\"This answer already describes the name of the \"\"golden\"\" component you are after, this answer expands upon that answer to note that there are various nuts with different thread sizes that look virtually the same, it would be a pity to order the incorrect one.\n\n\n\nNote that this trapezoidal lead screw nut is made from brass (e.i. in your image, but these nuts are also available in POM/Delrin) and needs to have exactly the same screw threads as your lead screw has. A much used lead screw is using the following designation Tr8x8(p2) ( for a full description of what that means look into this answer (Anet A8 lead screw threads)). Do note that there are many lead screw nut sizes, buying the wrong one will not fit the current lead screw.\n\n\n\nFrom the image you supplied it looks as if that is the same lead screw as used in the linked answer of the Anet A8 lead screw. To verify this, you could measure how much the nut advances on a full rotation of the nut, if it is 8 mm, buy the Tr8x8(p2) if e.g. 4 mm, buy the Tr8x4(p2). Note that if you are going to buy a new nut, you could opt for a nut that has no backlash, BUT, be sure that it would fit the acrylic hole and you have enough space as its height is larger, or be prepared to modify the acrylic part or reconstruct a new one (it wouldn't be a bad idea to do that anyways, acrylic is known for cracking under applying force such as screws and nuts). Note that an anti backlash nut must be used as depicted below.\n\n\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n10596,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,steve antwan,3.0576060275493275,4.626678300681091,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,3.265283966335819,What is this called? A tube flange bearing threaded for threaded pushrod,\"How should I describe this part which looks like a threaded flange so that I can research replacements? It is the gold piece in the middle of each photo. It is used to create a bed raiser in the FLSUN Cube 3D printer.\n\n\n\n\n\n\nIt gets attached to a motor using a flexible bearing\n\",R..,\"To the best of my knowledge, it's just called a lead screw nut or lead nut. The flange and holes for attaching it to a surface are inherent in its role in letting the lead screw move something.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n10643,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,steve antwan,2.528907649931287,3.4560097683240127,0.0,2.011441651225199,4.091740895605862,4.592941926651472,Digital vs. analog pins,\"In the RAMPS v1.4 board, it seems like the X, Y, and Z motors all use at least one analog pin, while the extruder motors are entirely digital. See just the top left block of this photo:\n\n\n\nIs there any advantage to using analog vs. digital pins in the motors?\n\nAs far as I can tell the traditional thermistors have to be have an Analog pin input because of the way they are read and processed. The MOSFETs for the heated bed and hot ends (and fans) should be digital because of the way transistors work. The end-stops are also digital because they are on-off switches.\n\nBut besides that, I can't tell if there is any other requirements or advantages to using some pins in analog / digital, especially for the motors which have seemingly contradictory pin assignments.\n\nThere are also three digital pins I don't recognize: MISO, MOSI, and SCK.\n\nRight now I'm looking to add 2 new motors using 8 total pins (6 Digital pins, 2 for ground). It seems to me I could use any combination of the D pin available in the image: \n\n\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"\"\"Analog pin\"\" is misleading nomenclature. Every pin is a digtal pin, but some digital pins happen to also be connected to the analog-to-digital converter and can thus also handle measuring analog signals.\n\nEvery analog pin can also serve as a perfectly good digital pin. The reverse is not true; if something requires an analog pin you cannot use a digital pin. The only things that require analog pins are the thermistors, for the rest (motors, MOSFETS, endstops,...) you can use either a digital pin or an analog pin.\n\",3.5068404193471867,2.0769199823829045\n10647,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,steve antwan,2.528907649931287,4.494085381880977,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Where did I go wrong by trying to add an extra motor to my board?,\"I'd like to add an extra motor to my board and I'm not sure where I went wrong. The motor will be used to spin a rotating wheel/carriage of potential hot ends to switch to. Because it's just a motor it doesn't need a heatrod or a temperature sensor. \n\nI had just a MKS_BASE 1.0 board, so I purchased a RAMPS 1.4 board from Ebay to be its extender.\n\n\n\n(( **Warning ** this board is cheap because it was improperly produced and is a fire hazard: https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4 . I recommend using a CNC shield instead ))\n\nThis red board is meant to fit an Arduino Mega, but I figure I can use the extra pins on the MKS_BASE1.0 and connect them with jumper wire to the RAMPS 1.4 board. It made sense in case I want to add other things to the original MKS_BASE 1.0 board (like more hot end heater cartridges). \n\nI connected the 5V and one GND pin from my MKS_BASE 1.0. I also connected some of the SERVOS pins from the MKS_BASE 1.0: D37 is the 'Dir', D35 is the 'Step', and D17 is the 'Enable'. I also connected the 12V power supply to the RAMPS 1.4 board too.\n\n\n\nWhen it came time to modify Marlin everything was a bit annoying because although Marlin makes it easy to add more extruders, adding just motors is a little more difficult. I had to change the number of extruders to be 3 (from dual extrusion to dual extrusion + extra motor), enable an extra temperature pin (which i am leaving empty) and also modify the pins.h file. \n\nI probably wouldn't have had simulate this motor as an extruder if I knew the raw Arduino commands for spinning a motor using calls to D37, D35, and D17, so I figured simulating an extruder would be better, but now I'm second-guessing that decision.\n\nHere's my modification to pins.h:\n\n#define E2_STEP_PIN 35\n#define E2_DIR_PIN 37\n#define E2_ENABLE_PIN 17\n\n#define HEATER_2_PIN 17 \n\n//#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 3 in Configuration.h\n\n#define TEMP_2_PIN 3\n\n// Marlin 0-indexes these pins, so \"\"2\"\" is actually for the \"\"3\"\"rd extruder\n\n\n\nFirst thing I have to do is allow for cold extrusions by using M302 S-80. The other (real) extruder motors will all move after this command, so I have that part working.. . \n\nIn Repetier-Host I am just selecting Extruder 3 and trying to \"\"push filament\"\" through it but the motor isn't moving. I'm using an A4988 stepper driver on a Kysan 1124090. Actually, I did this whole process with two motors because I wasn't sure whether the hardware itself would be an issue, so with another set of pins I'm using a Suncor Motor and it also doesn't respond and I also don't know why.\n\nIt would be really helpful to debug if I could run a single G-code command just to get the motor running at a speed, and take that out of the equation. it doesn't have to be a command to an \"\"extruder\"\" but just a command to a pin out, like M42 D35 S100 (but I don't know the raw command for just testing a motor's connections). \n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"D35, D37, D17 are the pin labels on the Arduino Mega. These do not correspond to pin numbers within Marlin.\n\nI believe that D35 actually corresponds to marlin pin 49 and this is the number you should enter in your firmware. You can find the mapping in fastio_1280.h:\n\nHardware Pin : 02 03 06 07 01 05 15 16 17 18 23 24 25 26 64 63 13 12 46 45 44 43 78 77 76 75 74 73 72 71 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 50 70 52 51 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 22 21 20 19 97 96 95 94 93 92 91 90 89 88 87 86 85 84 83 82 04 08 09 10 11 14 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 47 48 49 61 62 65 66 67 68 69 79 80 81 98 99 100\nPort : E0 E1 E4 E5 G5 E3 H3 H4 H5 H6 B4 B5 B6 B7 J1 J0 H1 H0 D3 D2 D1 D0 A0 A1 A2 A3 A4 A5 A6 A7 C7 C6 C5 C4 C3 C2 C1 C0 D7 G2 G1 G0 L7 L6 L5 L4 L3 L2 L1 L0 B3 B2 B1 B0 F0 F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 K0 K1 K2 K3 K4 K5 K6 K7 E2 E6 E7 xx xx H2 H7 G3 G4 xx xx xx xx xx D4 D5 D6 xx xx J2 J3 J4 J5 J6 J7 xx xx xx xx xx\nLogical Pin : 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx\n\n\nLook on the top row for the pin number (e.g. D35 corresponds to 35), then look on the bottom row to find the pin number to use in Marlin (in this case, 49).\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10647,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,steve antwan,2.528907649931287,4.494085381880977,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Where did I go wrong by trying to add an extra motor to my board?,\"I'd like to add an extra motor to my board and I'm not sure where I went wrong. The motor will be used to spin a rotating wheel/carriage of potential hot ends to switch to. Because it's just a motor it doesn't need a heatrod or a temperature sensor. \n\nI had just a MKS_BASE 1.0 board, so I purchased a RAMPS 1.4 board from Ebay to be its extender.\n\n\n\n(( **Warning ** this board is cheap because it was improperly produced and is a fire hazard: https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4 . I recommend using a CNC shield instead ))\n\nThis red board is meant to fit an Arduino Mega, but I figure I can use the extra pins on the MKS_BASE1.0 and connect them with jumper wire to the RAMPS 1.4 board. It made sense in case I want to add other things to the original MKS_BASE 1.0 board (like more hot end heater cartridges). \n\nI connected the 5V and one GND pin from my MKS_BASE 1.0. I also connected some of the SERVOS pins from the MKS_BASE 1.0: D37 is the 'Dir', D35 is the 'Step', and D17 is the 'Enable'. I also connected the 12V power supply to the RAMPS 1.4 board too.\n\n\n\nWhen it came time to modify Marlin everything was a bit annoying because although Marlin makes it easy to add more extruders, adding just motors is a little more difficult. I had to change the number of extruders to be 3 (from dual extrusion to dual extrusion + extra motor), enable an extra temperature pin (which i am leaving empty) and also modify the pins.h file. \n\nI probably wouldn't have had simulate this motor as an extruder if I knew the raw Arduino commands for spinning a motor using calls to D37, D35, and D17, so I figured simulating an extruder would be better, but now I'm second-guessing that decision.\n\nHere's my modification to pins.h:\n\n#define E2_STEP_PIN 35\n#define E2_DIR_PIN 37\n#define E2_ENABLE_PIN 17\n\n#define HEATER_2_PIN 17 \n\n//#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 3 in Configuration.h\n\n#define TEMP_2_PIN 3\n\n// Marlin 0-indexes these pins, so \"\"2\"\" is actually for the \"\"3\"\"rd extruder\n\n\n\nFirst thing I have to do is allow for cold extrusions by using M302 S-80. The other (real) extruder motors will all move after this command, so I have that part working.. . \n\nIn Repetier-Host I am just selecting Extruder 3 and trying to \"\"push filament\"\" through it but the motor isn't moving. I'm using an A4988 stepper driver on a Kysan 1124090. Actually, I did this whole process with two motors because I wasn't sure whether the hardware itself would be an issue, so with another set of pins I'm using a Suncor Motor and it also doesn't respond and I also don't know why.\n\nIt would be really helpful to debug if I could run a single G-code command just to get the motor running at a speed, and take that out of the equation. it doesn't have to be a command to an \"\"extruder\"\" but just a command to a pin out, like M42 D35 S100 (but I don't know the raw command for just testing a motor's connections). \n\",steve antwan,\"\nI got it to work using a CNC shield. Still haven't figured out the RAMPS 1.4 board.\nIt doesn't work using D1 and D2 inside Aux-1 because they are used in serial communication to an LCD. So every time you send a command over USB, they get clogged. I ended up using ports 4, 5, and 63 and it works perfectly (no pin mapping needed like in other answer). \n\n\n #define E4_STEP_PIN 4 // D4\n #define E4_DIR_PIN 5// D5\n #define E4_ENABLE_PIN 63// D63\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n10762,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,steve antwan,2.1782824847157594,3.4560097683240127,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,What filaments allow air to pass but not water vapor?,\"In some situations it useful to have a material in which air passes but water, and water vapor, does not. Printing cell membranes or cases for something that must be immune to humidity changes (like something that holds a highly oxidative metal) are two examples. \n\nTeflon (PTFE) is a material that has this property. But PTFE is horrendous to 3D print.\n\nSilicone is another material that has this property. 3D printing silicone can be done with a syringe mechanism. But there are also thermoplastic rubbers (e.g. TPU, TPE) that are designed to mimic Silicone.\n\nAre there any filaments on the market which naturally form holes with the porous diameter for this feature? Is there any way to manipulate the diameter of this hole, even starting from pellets? Are some filaments more likely than others to have this feature?\n\",Mick,\"It is difficult enough to make 3D-printed objects water-tight (unless you paint them). Making them permeable to air but not water vapour is too big an ask, I think.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n10875,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,steve antwan,1.0891412423578797,3.530743348684184,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.306096197889172,What is the 3D printer filament (or pellet) most resistant to bending at high heats?,\"I'm looking to 3D print a structure that won't deform in high heat, up to about 220 °C. The filament itself can be 3D printed all the way up to about 380 °C. \n\nPEI seems like it could be a viable option. I found some here. This PEI filament specifies the glass transition temperature at 217 °C.\n\nWould this filament work? Are there any other types of materials that would fulfill this engineering requirement?\n\",0scar,\"Your expected operating temperature exceeds the glass transition temperature by 3 °C. This implies that the structure will become weak and can deform under load. \n\nNote that you cannot simply print PEI on a normal machine, it requires a special high temperature capable printer with hot end temperatures up to 400 °C and heated bed over 120 °C up to 160 °C, furthermore it will need a heated chamber (up to about 80 °C) which requires special care to cooling and placement of electronics and motors.\n\nNot having specified what kind of structure you require, you could look into steel.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n10875,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,steve antwan,1.0891412423578797,3.530743348684184,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.306096197889172,What is the 3D printer filament (or pellet) most resistant to bending at high heats?,\"I'm looking to 3D print a structure that won't deform in high heat, up to about 220 °C. The filament itself can be 3D printed all the way up to about 380 °C. \n\nPEI seems like it could be a viable option. I found some here. This PEI filament specifies the glass transition temperature at 217 °C.\n\nWould this filament work? Are there any other types of materials that would fulfill this engineering requirement?\n\",Tegra,\"An easier but less simple solution might be to make a PLA 'pattern' that is the right size and shape, then use that to cast your item in aluminium (melting point ~ 660C) using the 'investment' or 'lost PLA' process.\nLinks:- \nhttps://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-Lost-PLA-Investment-Casting-Aluminium/\n\r\n \r\n \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10907,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,steve antwan,2.528907649931287,3.8943561620740414,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How to set up Marlin to use a heated chamber?,\"I have an infrared lamp I'd like to use to heat my chamber. Right now I don't have plans to install a cooling fan, but I will if I need to. This question pertains to Marlin (2.0, preferably) in combination with an MKS Gen L v1.0 board.\n\nIn the documentation for the thermal settings it specifies you can set a heater pin to be used to heat up the chamber. It says this variable is called the CHAMBER_HEATER_PIN but in Marlin 2.0's Configuration_adv.h file there is something called a HEATER_CHAMBER_PIN that has been commented out.\n\nSecondly the Configuration.h file: there is something called an AUTO_POWER_CHAMBER_FAN. Is this meant for a fan used for cooling, or a fan used for cleaning out the chamber of particles? In either case, I probably don't want to have this fan always on, but only use it to cool the temperature the heater has been on too long.\n\nSo really there should be only 2-3 changes I need to make right: \n\n\nI need to specify an already present digital pin for\n\n\nthe chamber heater\nthe chamber cooler (fan)\n\nTurn thermal runway active. \nIt needs to use the Marlin Chamber feature so that the readout temperature appears as \"\"C:\"\" in the arduino logs. This allows compatibility with octoprint\nLastly I need to set an analog pin for the chamber thermistor\n\n\nThese are the things I can't fully figure out on my own. \nA detailed set of instructions or code snippets for a similar setup would be helpful\n\",steve antwan,\"Here is what I found to be the easiest solution. Please use this image for reference. I recommend doing these instructions once from source, since a lot of things can go wrong, then once everything works, go back and integrate them into your existing Marlin codebase. \n\n\nGet some 5V relays to run the infrared lamps. These relays take in a 5V digital signal from an arduino pin. When the arduino activates these pins, the lamps will turn on. Get a cardboard box, line it with aluminum foil, and attach a lamp to the top of it using a lamp switch. One wire for the lightbulb goes to NO on the relay, the other goes to D-. One wire from 120V power goes to COM, the other also goes to D-. The yellow \"\"jumper\"\" on the relay boards I posted goes between HIGH and the middle pin. These are pins on the relay, not the MKS GEN board.\nOn the MKS GEN board, we will be using the X-MAX endstop as the digital pin to run the chamber. Wire the 5V pin on X-MAX to the D+ of the relay. Wire the GND pin to D- of the relay with the two other wires there. Wire pin D2 on the MKS GEN Board to IN on the relay. Bold means the pin is on the MKS GEN board. \nClone the Marlin-2.0 repo: git clone -b bugfix-2.0.x https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin.git\nIn Configuration.h, change TEMP_SENSOR_CHAMBER to 1 or 11 (depends on your thermistor, might be other values.) Since we will be using the board's second extruder thermistor as the thermistor in this example, change TEMP_SENSOR_1 to 0 for now.\n\n\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_3 0\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_4 0\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_5 0\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_CHAMBER 1\n\n\n\nIn the file src/pins/ramps/pins_RAMPS.h, add this line:\n#define TEMP_CHAMBER_PIN 15. Note that this is the thermistor\nslot usually used for a second extruder. If you're already using\nthis thermistor for the second extruder and want to use a different\nanalog pin, see this question. You'll need some resistors.\nAlso, around line 95 in pins_RAMPS.h, change X_MAX_PIN to use an unused pin. The number 4 is good. If you don't do this, your Chamber's digital Pin will be always \"\"on\"\" by default. You want it off by default, then activated by the Marlin code.\nIn Configuration_adv.h, change //#define HEATED_CHAMBER_PIN 44 to #define HEATER_CHAMBER_PIN 2 to use the X_MAX endstop's digital pin. \nUpload... \nGo into OctoPrint settings. Click Axes and Volume. Next to a checkbox for heated bed, there is a checkbox for heated chamber! Click that, and your chamber is active. \nIf some part is wrong (e.g. lamp doesn't go on because wire came loose on relay), debug that and keep working. Check the octoprint log to make sure the C value is shown.\nOnce everything works, generalize these solutions to your set-up (e.g. using multiple extruders). \n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n10967,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,steve antwan,2.8153892694839717,3.007463813452983,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Creating a heated chamber from a very large heated bed,\"In this instructable, a user creates a heated bed from a wooden plank, some nails, insulated copper wire, and a DC switch. He does place an aluminum bed on top of it, but for our heated chamber, we won't use any aluminum on top of these wires. We aren't trying to heat an aluminum bed, but an entire chamber. \n\n\nAssume I place a wire loom like this underneath my 3D printer. (I might place some aluminum foil between the wood and the copper wire, to reflect heat upwards more? Is that safe?)\n\nThen assume I have a cardboard box that has aluminum foil lining the walls on its inside. Assume the total size of my printer is 500mm x 500mm x 500mm. When I place the cardboard box over my printer, do you think it would take less than 1 hour for the top of the cardboard box to reach 60 degrees Celsius?\n\nDo you think there are any other hazards here I am not considering?\n\nCould I, theoretically, do this entirely with cardboard, and no wood?\n\nCould I, theoretically, line the inside of my cardboard box like this? Or might the cardboard ignite?\n\nI'd like to use cardboard because it is both lightweight and insulative. I can remove it easier to check all areas of my printer, unlike an enclosure. \n\",Trish,\"Cardboard is fundamentally paper. Paper ignites - just as Ray Bradbury claims - at around 233 °C or 451 °F.\n\nA thin heater wire usually glows red hot under operation. Not dark red, not blood cherry, not dark cherry, it's usually medium cherry to dark orange in operation, as one can easily tell by looking into a trusty toaster oven, which also shows us how powerful of a heating element this is.\n\nIn a typical toaster, heater wires are mounted in a metal frame and backed by some non-flammable material that looks like paper but is not. In a 2004 patent for such a method, they use a sheet of mica. But how hot is our wire? Well, under mains power, the wire of a toaster reaches 700-900 °C within seconds, heating the inner chamber of the toaster despite the slots to about 200-250 °C so quick that the bread roasts deliciously... until the heat controlling bimetal strip releases it up.\n\nWe operate these wires for at best a few minutes. In an electric forge, pretty much the same wires with a little more thickness to them are run at lemon glow for hours... and they are embedded in firebrick material to prevent them from igniting stuff touching them by accident!\n\nHow we know the temperature? Incandescence charts of course: \n\nConclusion\n\nPaper or cardboard backing on heater wires is a bad idea. Mounting the heater wire to a metal frame that is as nonconductive as possible and without a chance that something accidentally touches it is needed. Fiberglass or rock material would serve as a good carrier, an aluminium block with radiators would give a good heating-to-surface mix, especially is precautions are taken to make the wire surface nonconductive. \n\nEven using wood close to such a heater is a gamble I would not want to take. It's also best to mount the heating element into an enclosure that can't touch the wooden outer chamber and that stays put if the enclosure is opened or removed.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n10970,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,steve antwan,2.1782824847157594,3.4776007666316793,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,What is the MKS Base AUX header connector type?,\"I'm looking to crimp wires to the AUX-1 and EXP pins of my MKS base. For sanity reasons, i cant directly use Dupont jumpers, they keep coming out.\n\n\n\nBIQU MKS-Base V1.6 Plate Controller Board for 3D Printer Ramps 1.4\n\nIn the above product image, the type of housing is the \"\"black\"\" colored headers on the board, around the top left corner of the board. Each header has ~10 male pins inside of it \n\nMost of the other pins are of JST-XH type, for anyone else wondering. \n\",0scar,\"You need a 2.54 mm pitch (similar pitch to Dupont) female IDC (insulation displacement connectors on a ribbon cable) connector of 2x5P (pins) for the header connectors that have a notch. (for comparison, note that e.g. RAMPS 1.4 has 2x5p dupont headers on the shield for the AUX headers, not the notch type headers)\n\n\n\nThese connectors are usually crimped onto flat ribbon cables and used to connect the display to the board. These connectors have a rectangular notch to fit the gap in the housing to correctly position the cable (which the 2x5P Dupont don't have). \n\n\n\nFor reference/difference, an image of the Dupont 2x4P and 2x5P is shown below, highlighting both sides (\"\"up\"\" on the left, \"\"down\"\" on the right):\n\n\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n11043,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,steve antwan,1.726248027126092,3.064190294673638,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,What is the thermal conductivity of various 3D printing filaments?,\"Thermal conductivity is how well a plastic conducts heat. Most plastics don't conduct heat very well at all, which is what allows them to be 3D printed. That being said, there are a lot of potential use cases for highly thermally conductive filament, assuming you could print them. A commonly discussed one is computer heatsinks for water-cooling, which could also be used for stepper motors and extruders in 3d printing. \n\nTo get a good picture which plastics are useful in such an application, I need to know what is the thermal conductivity of the commonly used thermoplastics.\n\",steve antwan,\"All values are in W/(m*K).\n\n\nPLA: 0.13\nHIPS: 0.20\nABS: 0.25\nPETG: 0.29\nPEEK: 0.25\nPLA with copper: 0.25 (see discussion) \nPETG with 40% graphite: 1.70 (ansiotropic)\nTCPoly: 15\nSteel (not a 3dprintable plastic): 10 - 50\n\n\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n11071,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,steve antwan,2.8153892694839717,2.945606960725559,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,1.6229190288168605,Does voltage or current affect the time to heat a bed more?,\"Which of these will heat a bed fastest?\n\n\nA. 12 V, 10 A power supply\nB. 24 V, 5 A power supply\nC. Both A and B will be the same (only total watts matter)\nD. Depends on the situation\n\n\nI originally thought Amperage was what mattered until I realized I needed a 24 V power supply to even heat my Lulzbot mini bed by one degree.\n\nI know voltage is used to determine insulation thickness on wires. But thin wires with high current in them also get hot. Is insulation thickness on wires only to prevent you from accidentally cutting through them and shocking yourself, or is it for heat reasons?\n\nI'd like to power my heated bed with a 19.5 V, 5 A power supply. It's just an old laptop charger - I want to reduce strain on my circuit. It's a big bed and I have a few other laptop chargers lying around so I'd prefer to choose the best one.\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"Power is the thing that determines how quickly the bed heats up, nothing else.\n\nA specific bed will be defined by it's resistance, this is the only relevant factor which is a constant. Of course, you shouldn't run it at a much higher power than it was designed for, or at a significantly higher temperature (these are related, since the bed looses much more energy to the room as it gets hotter).\n\nAll 'low voltage' beds will have the same sort of insulation requirements (effectively none, less than 36V is regarded as safe to touch unless the skin is also penetrated).\n\nThe wires used to connect to the heated bed must have a significantly lower resistance than the bed itself (similarly the connectors). Otherwise the wiring overheats and the bed has to work harder (making the overheating worse). Using a heat bed designed for a higher voltage (and a matching higher voltage supply) puts less strain on the wiring because the current is reduced for the same power output.\n\nSince the resistance is constant, increasing a 12V power supply to 13V gives a ~17% power increase (with the same bed) because the current also increases.\n\",0.0,0.0\n11071,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,steve antwan,2.8153892694839717,2.945606960725559,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,1.6229190288168605,Does voltage or current affect the time to heat a bed more?,\"Which of these will heat a bed fastest?\n\n\nA. 12 V, 10 A power supply\nB. 24 V, 5 A power supply\nC. Both A and B will be the same (only total watts matter)\nD. Depends on the situation\n\n\nI originally thought Amperage was what mattered until I realized I needed a 24 V power supply to even heat my Lulzbot mini bed by one degree.\n\nI know voltage is used to determine insulation thickness on wires. But thin wires with high current in them also get hot. Is insulation thickness on wires only to prevent you from accidentally cutting through them and shocking yourself, or is it for heat reasons?\n\nI'd like to power my heated bed with a 19.5 V, 5 A power supply. It's just an old laptop charger - I want to reduce strain on my circuit. It's a big bed and I have a few other laptop chargers lying around so I'd prefer to choose the best one.\n\",0scar,\"It depends on whether you are re-using the bed or not, it is actually the resistance of the bed that determines this in conjunction with the voltage (the current you get for free).\n\nLet's say that the heatbed resistance is 1.2 Ω (depending on the heated bed make and model the resistance is typically in between 0.9 - 1.5 Ω), this means that the power can be calculated using:\n$$P = U \\times I$$\n$$U = I \\times R$$\ncombining gives:\n$$ P = I^2\\times R = \\frac{U^2}{R} $$\n\nFor 12 V (assumed default printer voltage) this means that the heatbed power equals about 120 Watt (at a current of 10 A). Running that same bed at 24 V means that the power is 480 Watt (at a current of 20 A). So yes, that will heat up fast, at the expense of an increased current, which is pretty high, and should not be attempted without extra resistance in the loop.\n\nIf you're using the laptop charger, the current draw equals about 16 A, which the adapter cannot deliver.\n\nThis means that you need to acquire a new heatbed that is able to handle a higher voltage out of the box (more resistance), or you need to put additional resistors in the loop, but beware of the currents. Note that heated beds for 12 V/24 V exist, the wiring is different depending on the voltage. Note that such beds heat up faster, it all depends on the resistance and the voltage, but running the 24 V circuit on 19.5 V (160 Watt bed) is definitely an improvement over the 120 Watt bed at 12 V but still requires about 8 A (only applicable to heatbed that can run 12 V/24 V through extra resistance connections).\n\nBe careful with this and be sure what you are doing!\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n11138,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,steve antwan,1.726248027126092,3.087132483714226,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,How to tell if a nozzle is truly stainless steel?,\"Normally stainless steel is magnetic. But whenever i order stainless steel nozzles from Amazon, they are not magnetic. This makes me think they could be brass coated in something like aluminum. However, there are many types of steel.\n\nI've attached an image of someone who reviewed these nozzles. He says they are not stainless steel because they are not magnetic.\n\n\n\nBut whenever I order \"\"stainless steel\"\" nozzles, even from other sellers, they are not magnetic. i already returned one pack from another seller and just received a nonmagnetic one from a third seller.\n\nSo that's it? Amazon just sells junk now? Or is there a way I can easily tell whether these are something other than colored brass / good for abrasive or high temp printing. Here is the product that was reviewed: \nAUSTOR 13 Pieces Stainless Steel 3D Printer Nozzles 0.2 mm, 0.4 mm, 0.6 mm, 0.8 mm, 1.0 mm Extruder Nozzle Print Head for E3D Makerbot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CHZMGRH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XtrNDbRMVH8SW\n\",Trish,\"Let's preface, that there are a LOT of metal identification methods. For example, I found this guide helpful and I had been at the scrapyard lately, where I have been told that 90+% of the time, steel objects that are non-magnetic are the more valuable stainless steels. The kitchen sink I dropped off? Stainless, non-magnetic steel.\n\nTempering/Annealing behavior\n\nThe very fact that the nozzles do change color to a brassy color that is commonly called straw is proof that it is indeed steel: heating up a piece of steel does alter the steel and also alters the surface color in a process called tempering. The color is only the surface, and the mild straw color would become orange-brown, purple, pale blue teal and yellow if you were to heat it higher. Take a look at the tempering colors of steel here:\n\n\nIn contrast, brass acts differently when heated and tempering is somewhat different. Subjecting the piece of brass to heat you will not temper but anneal it and you get colors differently. Instead of becoming straw before blue, Brass becomes dark, starting with its pale gold to go over a dark \"\"antique\"\" look to before going green, teal, purple-blue, red and then losing its color like this piece of a polished brass plate shows:\n\n\n\nHardness/Chip\n\nAnother test that would be easy to conduct is hardness. The base idea of hardness is: An item can scratch a piece of equal or lower hardness, but not of higher hardness. If you have a chisel handy, then you have a piece of steel at hand. Most chisels are rated as HRC 58-62 - which is the Rockwell hardness scale. Brass could be all over the place, depending on work hardening. But the identification is not by the hardness but by how the chisel - or better a graver - cuts.\n\nWe expect Brass to get a smooth cut with saw tooth edges while stainless cuts smoothly and has sharp edges to the cut.\n\nSparktest\n\nIf you want to scrap one, get an angle grinder or another power tool to grind at the nozzle. Steel sparks red-orange to whitish and depend on the mix, Carbide sparks very short and orange. Stainless creates a HUGE shower of sparks, yellow-white and dense, no burstes and branching. Copper, aluminium and Brass do not spark. Titanium is very bright white. It can tell you what kind of steel you have.\n\nDrilltest\n\nAs we are at destroying a pair of nozzles, why not drill them? we should have done that before subjecting it to heattreating and the grinding, but alas... Basically, we clamp the piece down and take an HSS drill to drill out the center. \n\nBrass needs a different drill type but can be drilled and machined without coolant. Typical HSS drills from the home depot have a positive rake, brass wants neutral or negative rake to drill or machine smoothly. If the piece grabs, creates short spials and dusty small flakes with an unmodified, new drill (or under positive rake machining), it drills like brass, as you see here from a Clickspring video on drilling brass:\n\n\n\nIn contrast, stainless steel doesn't want to be machined without cooling at all and using high speed creates smoke quickly and nearly no chips at all. A moment later your tool starts to glow and gets a dull edge. If your drilling experiment turns a new drill blunt on high speeds or uncooled, you have stainless at your hands. To get chips, you need to work slow and have some sort of cooling. It is still a painfully slow process that needs a lot of pressure, but it gets larger, nesting chips like seen here from a Wayne Canning steel drilling tutorial:\n\n\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n11138,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,steve antwan,1.726248027126092,3.087132483714226,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,How to tell if a nozzle is truly stainless steel?,\"Normally stainless steel is magnetic. But whenever i order stainless steel nozzles from Amazon, they are not magnetic. This makes me think they could be brass coated in something like aluminum. However, there are many types of steel.\n\nI've attached an image of someone who reviewed these nozzles. He says they are not stainless steel because they are not magnetic.\n\n\n\nBut whenever I order \"\"stainless steel\"\" nozzles, even from other sellers, they are not magnetic. i already returned one pack from another seller and just received a nonmagnetic one from a third seller.\n\nSo that's it? Amazon just sells junk now? Or is there a way I can easily tell whether these are something other than colored brass / good for abrasive or high temp printing. Here is the product that was reviewed: \nAUSTOR 13 Pieces Stainless Steel 3D Printer Nozzles 0.2 mm, 0.4 mm, 0.6 mm, 0.8 mm, 1.0 mm Extruder Nozzle Print Head for E3D Makerbot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CHZMGRH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XtrNDbRMVH8SW\n\",0scar,\"Stainless steel is created by adding elements (usually Chromium, but also Nickel) to steel. These added elements form an oxide layer with the outside air protecting the steel from corroding. \n\nWhether stainless steel is magnetic or not depends on the added elements and the micro structure of the steel; some are and some aren't magnetic.\n\nFrom physlink:\n\n\n As for whether they (red. stainless steels) are magnetic, the answer is that it depends. There are several families of stainless steels with different physical properties. A basic stainless steel has a 'ferritic' structure and is magnetic. These are formed from the addition of chromium and can be hardened through the addition of carbon (making them 'martensitic') and are often used in cutlery. However, the most common stainless steels are 'austenitic' - these have a higher chromium content and nickel is also added. It is the nickel which modifies the physical structure of the steel and makes it non-magnetic.\n\n\nSo the answer is that you cannot determine by testing for magnetic properties if the nozzle is stainless steel or not. But if it is not magnetic, it can be stainless steel. Note that discoloration is possible, this is the oxide layer.\n\nTo identify if the steel is stainless, you could without sacrificing the nozzle (according to this reference):\n\n\n Step 1\n Stick the magnet on the piece you are testing. If it holds firmly, the metal is possibly stainless steel. If not, it is (red. could be) another metal such as aluminum.\n \n Step 2\n Pick a spot on the piece that you don't mind damaging a little.\n \n Step 3\n Fill the eye dropper with muriatic acid. Drop a small amount of the acid on the test spot. Wait half an hour.\n \n Step 4\n Wipe the acid off the piece. Examine the test spot. If it is discolored, the piece is stainless steel.\n\n\n\n\nNote that the image you posted shows a Zinc plated steel screw, not a stainless steel screw.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n11272,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,steve antwan,3.267423727073639,4.63691070807405,3.507933925167123,4.670422881206417,3.929104701733314,3.4319460411998994,\"How to wire for AC mains voltage relay, when printer board is connected to AC-charging laptop computer?\",\"I know this will be a really obvious question to some people, but I have bricked about 3 boards doing this so I want to be certain before I brick a fourth. I don't have a lot of experience working with AC voltage, especially crimping / hacking it like what's going on here. Trust me it was my last resort to ask this.\n\nBasically, as a chamber heater I'm using some 120V heat lamps (here in the U.S.). The problem seems to be that when I connect my laptop to the board (if the laptop is plugged in, which it has to be for long-term serial control), sometimes I:\n\n\nHear an electric shock sound -- the board is fried\nDon't hear an electric shock sound -- the board is fried, though\n\n\nWhat I interpret from this is that I'm stupidly wiring the 120V heat lamps incorrectly relative to my 3D printer board, such that when I connect it to my charging laptop via USB, the AC voltages are out of phase, causing my board to be fried. Alternatively, it's the 12V/24V power supply that's wired wrong relative to everything else, which also needs to be wired to the same polarity.\n\n\nI was on the understanding that when crimping a three-wire male electrical cord:\n\n\nWhite = Neutral\nBlack = Hot (or Load)\nGreen = Ground\n\n\n... reinforced on the left side of the below image as well: \n\n\n\nSo, I know that much already. The question is, when I connect this AC outlet to a relay like this, I got NO, COM, NC on one side and IN, DC+, DC- on the other. Which wire goes to COM, and which goes to D-? The board uses COM to denote the voltage that is switched 'on' by the relay, and D- to denote whatever the shared ground is among, the 3D printer, heat lamp, printer board, etc... (For more info, see link to relay)\n\n\nThis 5V relay says it supports AC loads being managed by an arduino / 3D printer, so I was under the impression that I could connect the white wire to its D- pin (which also should receive the \"\"GND\"\" for my 3D printer board) and the black wire to its COM pin. However, what do I do about the green wire? Nothing? Also, was it wrong for me to assume it would support this function when the Arduino is connected to a charging laptop via USB?\n\nBasically, I just need to be sure that my laptop (3-prong), power supply (3-prong), heat lamps (2 or 3 prong) and relay (only 2-prong) all have matching polarities and don't cause an electric shock or fry my board. But I am getting really conflicting results and frying a lot of boards, probably by overthinking this. \n\",0scar,\"In effect, the ground (from mains) does not need to be connected to the relay, the relay interrupts the \"\"hot\"\" or \"\"neutral\"\" (preferably the \"\"hot\"\", but that is not possible for all plugs, e.g. some European plugs can be inserted 180° turned into the sockets). You connect one of the interrupted wires to the COM, the other interrupted wire (that goes to the lamps) to the NO (or the NC, depending on safety, the logic and/or preference). The ground wire from the mains power socket is not necessary at all (some lamp amratures require this to be connected though). See a schematic below, it uses an Arduino Uno, but you can think of it being the printer board. Note to never connect the ground from mains to the printer board directly!\n\n\n\nImage based on source: osoyoo.com\n\nThe logic (low voltage side of the relay) needs to be wired as follows:\n\n\nDC+ is the voltage power supply of the relay module, this is frequently +5 V, but some modules use +3.3 V (sometimes there is a jumper cap to select the voltage)\nDC- is the ground from the printer board\nIN is the trigger that needs to be connected to the port on the printer board that electronically switches the relay\n\n\",3.367452517504837,2.0769199823829045\n11272,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,steve antwan,3.267423727073639,4.63691070807405,3.507933925167123,4.670422881206417,3.929104701733314,3.4319460411998994,\"How to wire for AC mains voltage relay, when printer board is connected to AC-charging laptop computer?\",\"I know this will be a really obvious question to some people, but I have bricked about 3 boards doing this so I want to be certain before I brick a fourth. I don't have a lot of experience working with AC voltage, especially crimping / hacking it like what's going on here. Trust me it was my last resort to ask this.\n\nBasically, as a chamber heater I'm using some 120V heat lamps (here in the U.S.). The problem seems to be that when I connect my laptop to the board (if the laptop is plugged in, which it has to be for long-term serial control), sometimes I:\n\n\nHear an electric shock sound -- the board is fried\nDon't hear an electric shock sound -- the board is fried, though\n\n\nWhat I interpret from this is that I'm stupidly wiring the 120V heat lamps incorrectly relative to my 3D printer board, such that when I connect it to my charging laptop via USB, the AC voltages are out of phase, causing my board to be fried. Alternatively, it's the 12V/24V power supply that's wired wrong relative to everything else, which also needs to be wired to the same polarity.\n\n\nI was on the understanding that when crimping a three-wire male electrical cord:\n\n\nWhite = Neutral\nBlack = Hot (or Load)\nGreen = Ground\n\n\n... reinforced on the left side of the below image as well: \n\n\n\nSo, I know that much already. The question is, when I connect this AC outlet to a relay like this, I got NO, COM, NC on one side and IN, DC+, DC- on the other. Which wire goes to COM, and which goes to D-? The board uses COM to denote the voltage that is switched 'on' by the relay, and D- to denote whatever the shared ground is among, the 3D printer, heat lamp, printer board, etc... (For more info, see link to relay)\n\n\nThis 5V relay says it supports AC loads being managed by an arduino / 3D printer, so I was under the impression that I could connect the white wire to its D- pin (which also should receive the \"\"GND\"\" for my 3D printer board) and the black wire to its COM pin. However, what do I do about the green wire? Nothing? Also, was it wrong for me to assume it would support this function when the Arduino is connected to a charging laptop via USB?\n\nBasically, I just need to be sure that my laptop (3-prong), power supply (3-prong), heat lamps (2 or 3 prong) and relay (only 2-prong) all have matching polarities and don't cause an electric shock or fry my board. But I am getting really conflicting results and frying a lot of boards, probably by overthinking this. \n\",Harper - Reinstate Monica,\"Mains electric specialist here. When working in mains power, mechanical execution of work is everything.\n\nThe first rule is do not casually mess around with mains power -- it will kill you! If you've done a lot of low-voltage tinkering with jury-rigged wires splayed all over the place -- do not do that with mains wiring. Ever. Break that habit with mains! \n\nThe second rule is hard separation. It is absolutely forbidden, for instance, to have low voltage wires intermingled with mains in a jumble, even inside a metal box.\n\nA \"\"Chinese wall\"\" between mains and low-voltage\n\nBy which I don't mean low quality. Generally all wires associated with mains should be inside a grounded metal enclosure, and all low-voltage wires should be outside that enclosure, or separated by a physical divider. \n\nHere is an ideal setup that will pass muster. \n\n\nA standard square drawn steel junction box, with knockout holes, \\$1\na #10-32 ground screw for that hole on the bump\nA cover plate, \\$1, made to take ....\n... two common receptacles, but get the higher quality screw-and-clamp type - $2.50 each so we can use stranded wire. I'm assuming you have more than 2 lights. If not, you can wire this thing so half the sockets are always-on. \na couple feet of #12 stranded THHN wire, each red, black and white (20 cents/foot)\nA relay-transformer that mounts to a knockout hole. \n\n\n\n\n\n\nFor now just imagine 3 mains wires coming in: black hot, white neutral and green earth. Earth goes to that #10-32 screw hole on the bump, and the metal case grounds everything else. \n\nI pigtail wires on receptacles because it's easier, but it's also clearer for a novice (than using a receptacle as a splice block). On the receptacles, pigtail neutral with white. Hot gets a red pigtail if switched, and black if always-on. \n\nFit the relay into a knockout hole, mains wires inward. \n\nNow you have a bunch of black, red, and white wires. Join them by color! Easy peasy! This is why I made such a fuss about getting 3 colors of THHN wire. \n\nButton it all up, and the mains work is done. \n\nGetting power into our box\n\nI glossed over bringing mains supply into this box. Let's review that further. \n\nThat junction box is made to mount on a wall. It's a code violation to use it as a portable box (but lots of people do). However you must use cordage (SJOW, SJOOW etc.) not in-wall wiring (NM, THHN, UF). I just buy a 14 AWG extension cord and lop the socket off. Visit the electrical supply house (Greybar, not Mouser) and get a strain relief that'll fit that cord and a knockout hole. \n\nIf you want to mount it on the wall over another box, they make special 4\"\" square boxes for that. If the existing box is a similar box, they make \"\"extension boxes\"\" with open backs. They also make ones designed to go over top of a 1-gang box that is metal or plastic. \n\n\n\nIf you need the existing outlet space on the wall, you can use surface conduit systems like Legrand Wiremold (not to be confused with cable organizers intended for low-voltage cables only). You extend off an existing outlet, leaving that with its original function, then run surface conduit to another box, where you mount these items. \n\nMake the system talk to it\n\nThat was a lot of heavy lifting, but the rest is downhill. \n\nOn the above relay, you simply attach 2 wires to W and R. (in fact, common thermostat cable is \"\"W\"\"hite and \"\"R\"\"ed, coincidence: not). If you short those wires to each other, the relay operates and the lights turn on. Use an appropriate relay if needed. There is low voltage AC on these wires (24VAC between them, 34V peak, isolated from earth and mains) which means you can route these wires without mains-level protection. \n\nThey make other relay-transformers, but I really like how this one puts the low-voltage on opposite sides of the knockout from the mains. They also make cheaper relays that accept 24VDC or even 12VDC, but then you have to supply that. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n11316,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,steve antwan,1.0891412423578797,2.9075761835826794,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,What causes leaking between the heat break and the heat block?,\"During long prints, my heat block becomes covered in whatever material I am printing. The plastic leaks from the junction between the heat break and the heat block, and runs down towards the nozzle.\n\nI frequently have problems with grinding of filament by the Bowden extruder. However, on the E3D Kraken with a Volcano block, if I use water cooling and a fan positioned just above the heat block, there is no grinding, and everything comes out fine. But the heat block grows a beard of plastic regardless if there is a fan over the heat break or not.\n\nI check my prints once every 2 hours and can wipe the heat block beard, but for overnight prints this isn't possible, so sometimes my prints will have random blobs from when the plastic leaks onto the print.\n\nI have tried multiple nozzles and filaments! I print at only 60 mm/s. Does the volcano block need faster print speeds to prevent this from happening?\n\nI cant really figure out the root of the issue. If the rest of the print comes out fine, then why is there an issue?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"A video I recently viewed (YouTube link) regarding installing a hot end assembly references the proper sequence of parts placement. Starting with the nozzle, thread it into the heater block until it is proud of the surface by a half of a millimeter, perhaps slightly more. The heat break is then threaded into the heater block until it contacts the nozzle. If not already in place, attach the heat sink.\n\nThe next step is to bring the assembly up to maximum temperature and re-tighten the nozzle assembly, obviously using great care due to the high temp.\n\nThe video specified that performing this sequence incorrectly would result in leakage from the assembly, which describes your troubles.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n11332,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,steve antwan,2.1782824847157594,3.4059665074531917,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,What are the variables for PID control? How to use M301? How to use this command to switch from PID to bang-bang?,\"I'd like to have the 12V PID output of an old Printrboard hotend control a relay that attaches to a 120V crockpot for something I'm making. I have everything working fine using a relay, but because the hotend heater is using PID control, the relay clicks about 3 times per second each time it needs to heat up the crockpot. \n\nNot only is this sound annoying, but it will likely reduce the life of the relay significantly. I need the crockpot temperature controlled, so the programmatic thermistor control on an old 3D printer board is a huge help, and probably cheaper than the alternatives. Especially since this board has an SD slot built in and can run any code on power-up. In \"\"bang-bang\"\" control, there would be less clicking as the crockpot heats up, and the relay wouldn't be damaged.\n\nI can't update the firmware on my board to use a different pin because it is a really old Printrbot board. All the required software is almost 5 years old and is really difficult to find. Fortunately the Printrboard does support M301. So, I should be able to use this command to switch from PID control to bang-bang.\n\nIn Marlin's documentation, it describes a command called M301, along with a lot of variables for using this command. The problem is, I don't know what any of these variables mean. \n\nM301 [C<value>] [D<value>] [E<index>] [I<value>] [L<value>] [P<value>] \n\n\n\n[C<value>] \n\nC term (requires PID_EXTRUSION_SCALING)\n\n[D<value>] \n\nDerivative value\n\n[E<index>] \n\nExtruder index to set. Default 0.\n\n[I<value>] \n\nIntegral value\n\n[L<value>] \n\nExtrusion scaling queue length (requires PID_EXTRUSION_SCALING)\n\n[P<value>] \n\nProportional value\n\n\nAbout the only thing I know for sure is that the extruder index is 0. \n\nWhat command would I enter to make this a bang-bang PID controller, so that I don't damage my relay long-term?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"\n What command would I enter to make this a bang-bang PID controller\n\n\nThere's no such thing as a \"\"bang-bang PID controller\"\". \"\"bang bang\"\" is mutually exclusive of PID. The M301 command is only good for fine-tuning the parameters of the PID controller, but it won't let you switch to bang bang. Unfortunately, you must update the firmware if you wish to use bang bang.\n\nYou could try setting all values to 0, except P, which you set to an as high value as possible. This will cause the output to be fully on when the temperature is lower than the setpoint, and fully off when higher than the setpoint. However, this can still cause rapid clicking of the relay when the temperature is hovering around the setpoint. Bang bang has some hysteresis built-in (i.e., there is a margin around the setpoint in which the relay will never be toggled); there's no way to emulate this with PID.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n11361,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,steve antwan,2.1782824847157594,4.458525285702728,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,What does the stainless steel plug do in the E3D Kraken cooler block?,\"In the E3D Kraken cooler block, there is a big, 10 mm grub screw, along the side of the cooler block.\n\nI watched the entire Kraken assembly video:\n\n\r\n \r\n \n\nThere was no mention of this very thick grub screw. The E3D Kraken assembly wiki page may refer to this part as the \"\"stainless plug\"\".\n\nDoes the depth of the screw inside the Kraken heatbreak affect the effectiveness of the water cooling?\n\nWhy was it included in the design at all?\n\nI'm asking because water frequently leaks out of this pore for me, ever since I had to repair some damaged tubing. Additionally I often have to use an extra fan when printing at high temperatures. I'm wondering, before I epoxy this grub screw into place, whether the amount it is tightened into the Kraken has some advantages or disadvantages.\n\nThe video shows the part already assembled on the Kraken. This is what the part looks like - it is much larger than the screws used to secure heat throats. \n\",cmm,\"The connecting channel between the two brass barbed hose fittings needs to be drilled out. To open that channel, a hole is drilled into the side to connect the two top holes (which have the brass fittings screwed into them). The hole doesn't need to penetrate both sides, but it must get through one side.\n\nThe grub screw seals the hole.\n\nInstead of using epoxy to seal in the screw, you could use the PTFE (Teflon) white plumbing tape. It is specifically designed to seal threads.\n\nIf I remember, you can thread it in as tightly as you like. It won't interfere with the water channel.\n\nI have a Kraken, and I looked at how to make another one.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n11361,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,steve antwan,2.1782824847157594,4.458525285702728,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,What does the stainless steel plug do in the E3D Kraken cooler block?,\"In the E3D Kraken cooler block, there is a big, 10 mm grub screw, along the side of the cooler block.\n\nI watched the entire Kraken assembly video:\n\n\r\n \r\n \n\nThere was no mention of this very thick grub screw. The E3D Kraken assembly wiki page may refer to this part as the \"\"stainless plug\"\".\n\nDoes the depth of the screw inside the Kraken heatbreak affect the effectiveness of the water cooling?\n\nWhy was it included in the design at all?\n\nI'm asking because water frequently leaks out of this pore for me, ever since I had to repair some damaged tubing. Additionally I often have to use an extra fan when printing at high temperatures. I'm wondering, before I epoxy this grub screw into place, whether the amount it is tightened into the Kraken has some advantages or disadvantages.\n\nThe video shows the part already assembled on the Kraken. This is what the part looks like - it is much larger than the screws used to secure heat throats. \n\",0scar,\"This stainless steel plug is necessary because of the fabrication of the cooler block. As this is a water cooled block, cold fluid flows in the inlet brass barb, and hot fluid out of the exit brass barb. The manufactured channel between the two is done through the hole that is later plugged by the stainless steel plug. \n\nFrom the manufacturers website of the stainless steel plugs you can read that a tapered hole and sealant are required to make a tight seal:\n\n\n They have a wide range of applications in sealing and require a tapered hole.\n\n\nand:\n\n\n Replacing these plugs on the Kraken should only be completed if you are confident in your ability to achieve an adequate seal. We use Threadlock and a measured torque setting.\n\n\nBe sure the hole has a taper, if you over-tightened if once it may have worn. Epoxy based glue would be able to be used at the cooler block, temperatures are not expected to be too high, but from the comments below it becomes clear that there are specific sealing products available for sealing the plug other than epoxy.\n\nThe depth of the grub screw is not likely to affect the cooling properties (it isn't expected to block one of the brass barbs).\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n11376,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,steve antwan,2.8153892694839717,2.4133631537631723,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,How to find Printrboard pin numbers in Marlin,\"I'm looking for a Printrboard board image with the pin numbers labeled. Specifically for Rev. F. \n\nSpecifically, I'd like to know what each pin on the EXP1 and EXP2 correspond to numberwise within Marlin.\n\nThe pins.h file for the Printrboard Rev. F doesn't include any other files and doesn't indicate what pin number corresponds to which part on the board...\n\nThere is this google sheets file which provides some of the information. \n\n\n\nThis image has the categories of each pin labeled. But I'm looking for where the pin numbers on the board correspond to the numbers in Marlin, similar to this image for the MKS Gen L:\n\n\n\",Greenonline,\"As FarO suggested, from github:Printrbot/printrboard/revF2 (via RepRapWiki - Printrboard - Revision History), the EagleCAD board layout and schematics are contained in the printrboard-revF2.zip:\n\n\nPrintrboard.sch\nPrintrboard.brd\n\n\nThis is the EagleCAD schematic: \n\n\n\nEagleCAD board layout\n\n\n\nNot quite the annotated diagram that you were after, unfortunately, but it might help.\n\n\n\nThere are a couple of configuration files on KevinOConnor/klipper, but unfortunately only for revisions B to D (at90usb1286) and G (SAM3x8c)... E and F are not available.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n11388,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,steve antwan,2.8153892694839717,5.8644521138316845,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,4.376800063013361,4.7596040015155525,Are silicone socks safe?,\"It's fairly common for E3D to sell silicone socks for their hot ends. There are also other companies that sell these silicone socks for their hot end cartridges.\n\nAccording to a brief internet search, it seems the ignition temperature of silicone is surprisingly low - around 450 °C. This surprised me because I was under the impression silicone would just burn / evaporate if it were heated up to a much higher temperature.\n\nIf my thermistor/heatrod slips off, my heatrod will glow into an orange temperature during thermal runway. This only happens briefly, but its color indicates it is reaching a temperature around 790 °C. \n\nSo, are silicone socks safe? Couldn't they ignite fairly easily?\n\n\n\",0scar,\"Silicone socks are safe to use, provided your printer is safely operating and you are using the silicone socks in their operating temperature range. \n\n\n\nYour current setup is NOT SAFE!\n\n\n\nWhen the heater element falls out of the heater block (that should not happen in the first place, please secure it correctly) and heats up to about 800 °C this means that the printer has no active Thermal Runaway Protection (TRP) enabled. Basically, when the thermistor doesn't measure a temperature rise while the voltage to the heater element is being scheduled, the firmware should shut down the voltage to the heater element. When this fails, the heater element can reach dangerously high temperatures to start burning anything that can catch a flame on touch. In deliberate tests, heaters have been able to melt the aluminium of the hotend:\n\n\r\n \r\n \n\nYou should be worried at this point as you see from the link you provided what happens if the heater is not shut off when the heater element is disconnected from the heater block:\n\n\n\nPlease fix your printer ASAP by uploading a proper firmware with enabled TRP protection before proceeding to print anything or at least don't let it print without supervision and proper smoke/fire detection devices.\n\",3.7511513460834345,0.0\n11388,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,steve antwan,2.8153892694839717,5.8644521138316845,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,4.376800063013361,4.7596040015155525,Are silicone socks safe?,\"It's fairly common for E3D to sell silicone socks for their hot ends. There are also other companies that sell these silicone socks for their hot end cartridges.\n\nAccording to a brief internet search, it seems the ignition temperature of silicone is surprisingly low - around 450 °C. This surprised me because I was under the impression silicone would just burn / evaporate if it were heated up to a much higher temperature.\n\nIf my thermistor/heatrod slips off, my heatrod will glow into an orange temperature during thermal runway. This only happens briefly, but its color indicates it is reaching a temperature around 790 °C. \n\nSo, are silicone socks safe? Couldn't they ignite fairly easily?\n\n\n\",craftxbox,\"Neither your thermistor nor your heater cartridge should ever be capable of becoming loose from your hotend, let alone the fact it's capable of reaching 800 °C before your printer even notices (This is a massive issue in itself!!!)\n\nSilicone socks are safe, unless you're printing materials with extremely high melting points, which is usually never.\n\nIf you're concerned it's going to autoignite mid-print, you have much bigger issues surrounding your hotend than a silicone sock.\n\",3.5068404193471867,2.0769199823829045\n10516,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Liam,1.726248027126092,2.835469776828434,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,0.9784382375735183,\"A single angle, single phone model windshield mount -- a job for a 3D printer?\",\"My end goal is getting high quality dash footage from a 6 month road trip I'm going on. From my research, very few dash cams support 4k 30fps filming, and the ones that do overwrite their own footage really quick, so instead of that I'd like to use my iPhone. I have a wide angle lens for it, and I figure I can mount it to my windshield, behind the rear-view mirror.\n\nBut here's the problem: there are no windshield phone mounts that allow for the angle I need. They're all designed to point the phone screen at the driver, and the little ball joints that let you set the angle just don't work to point the camera straight ahead. I've tried like 5 different ones, and they all have this problem.\n\nWhat I need is a solid thing that sticks to my windshield and holds my phone in the correct direction. Once stuck, it never needs to be adjusted. I think I could use 3M strips to stick something to the glass, so the only remaining part of the mystery is this: A piece of plastic the exact right shape to hold my phone and point it at a specific angle.\n\nMy question is: Is this a good use case for 3D printing? And if so, how would a complete amateur get started on this?\n\nA few more requirements that I'm not sure if 3D printing can meet:\n\n\nIt would need to withstand heat, as it would be left in the car on hot days in the south.\nIt can't be too brittle, as speed bumps and dirt roads will knock it around a fair bit, and it has to support a large phone with an added lens.\n\n\",R..,\"This certainly is a problem you could use a 3D printer to solve, but it requires getting good results with printing in materials that aren't the easiest to work with. It might be easier to go with one of the mounts you already have, and just adapting it for a different range of angles by mounting a wedge-shaped piece between it and the windshield. This could be done with 3D printing (note the materials requirements still), or if you have access to tools for cutting, drilling holes, etc., by just starting with a chunk of material, cutting it to the right shape, and adding some holes to mount suction cups and attach the existing phone mount.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10516,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Liam,1.726248027126092,2.835469776828434,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,0.9784382375735183,\"A single angle, single phone model windshield mount -- a job for a 3D printer?\",\"My end goal is getting high quality dash footage from a 6 month road trip I'm going on. From my research, very few dash cams support 4k 30fps filming, and the ones that do overwrite their own footage really quick, so instead of that I'd like to use my iPhone. I have a wide angle lens for it, and I figure I can mount it to my windshield, behind the rear-view mirror.\n\nBut here's the problem: there are no windshield phone mounts that allow for the angle I need. They're all designed to point the phone screen at the driver, and the little ball joints that let you set the angle just don't work to point the camera straight ahead. I've tried like 5 different ones, and they all have this problem.\n\nWhat I need is a solid thing that sticks to my windshield and holds my phone in the correct direction. Once stuck, it never needs to be adjusted. I think I could use 3M strips to stick something to the glass, so the only remaining part of the mystery is this: A piece of plastic the exact right shape to hold my phone and point it at a specific angle.\n\nMy question is: Is this a good use case for 3D printing? And if so, how would a complete amateur get started on this?\n\nA few more requirements that I'm not sure if 3D printing can meet:\n\n\nIt would need to withstand heat, as it would be left in the car on hot days in the south.\nIt can't be too brittle, as speed bumps and dirt roads will knock it around a fair bit, and it has to support a large phone with an added lens.\n\n\",CrossRoads,\"Why not try a GoPro camera? They now have 4K, image stabilized camera with all kinds of accessory mounts.\n\nhttps://shop.gopro.com/cameras/hero7-silver/CHDHC-601-master.html\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10527,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Raph,1.0891412423578797,4.549530902034997,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,0.9784382375735183,Ender 3 BLTouch first layer problems,\"I recently installed an original BLTouch V3 on my Ender 3 pro and ever since I can’t seem to get a decent print. My first layers are horrible.\n\nThe install wasn’t so bad, I really thought it would be plug and play thereafter. \n\nI currently have:\n\n\nVersion 1.1.4 board with non silent steppers\nMarlin 1.1.9 with bug fix as per the teaching tech video\nPrinting on glass, bed @ 60 °C, extruder @ 200 °C\n\n\nI have checked\n\n\nBed is level.\nX gantry is squared/straight.\nBelts seem tight. \nTried my best at getting the Z offset right.\nChecked E steps are correct.\nBLTouch seems to be working - not 100 % sure as it’s my first time using an auto level sensor.\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nMore pictures here for those who can help.\n\n\n\n\nI have reset the offset and still having difficulty I’m hoping the following pics would help. They bed level squares that prints squares on all four corners and the centre of the bed plate. If I raise the offset any higher I have difficulty with prints sticking. See here.\n\n\n\",0scar,\"If the image is showing a view of the bottom layer of the print, the most probable issue is that the nozzle is too far away from the bed when printing the first layer. This manifests itself as almost not flattening out the deposited filament lines, hence you can see through them. Also it might be a good idea to check if the extrusion process is giving you enough filament (it could be that you are under-extruding); a calibration of the extruder might help in this respect.\n\nTo lower the nozzle/decrease the nozzle to bed distance you can use the menu of the printer to set a smaller value. Also, G-code M851 may be used to set a new (smaller) value (e.g. M851 Z-1.23 when the sensor trigger point to the bed is 1.23 mm); don't forget to store the value to memory with M500 (if enabled in firmware). Sending of G-codes to the machine can be done by \"\"printing\"\" the commands stored in a .g text file directly from the SD card, or using a so-called terminal interface that many 3D Printer software applications offer (e.g. OctoPrint, Pronterface as part of Printrun software suite, Repetier-Host, etc.).\n\",0.0,0.0\n10527,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Raph,1.0891412423578797,4.549530902034997,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,0.9784382375735183,Ender 3 BLTouch first layer problems,\"I recently installed an original BLTouch V3 on my Ender 3 pro and ever since I can’t seem to get a decent print. My first layers are horrible.\n\nThe install wasn’t so bad, I really thought it would be plug and play thereafter. \n\nI currently have:\n\n\nVersion 1.1.4 board with non silent steppers\nMarlin 1.1.9 with bug fix as per the teaching tech video\nPrinting on glass, bed @ 60 °C, extruder @ 200 °C\n\n\nI have checked\n\n\nBed is level.\nX gantry is squared/straight.\nBelts seem tight. \nTried my best at getting the Z offset right.\nChecked E steps are correct.\nBLTouch seems to be working - not 100 % sure as it’s my first time using an auto level sensor.\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nMore pictures here for those who can help.\n\n\n\n\nI have reset the offset and still having difficulty I’m hoping the following pics would help. They bed level squares that prints squares on all four corners and the centre of the bed plate. If I raise the offset any higher I have difficulty with prints sticking. See here.\n\n\n\",Nach0z,\"So the weird ridges around each line look like a form of over-extrusion that happens when your nozzle is too close to the bed. The gaps on the other side may be areas that were so thin that they didn't survive removal from the bed, or just areas that the plastic couldn't reach because the nozzle was basically dragging. I don't personally have any experiences with touch sensors (yet! got an inductive probe I'll be installing soon) but I can only assume that you have the ability to set the probe's Z offset from the nozzle. If that is the case, try setting your Z offset such that the nozzle is further away from the bed after probing. \n\nI'd suggest starting by raising the nozzle about 0.2 mm, and fine-tuning from there. If you continue to get the raised ridges adjacent to each printed line, keep raising the nozzle until you don't get them anymore. At some point you should actually get to a point where there's gaps between the lines because the nozzle is too far, and at that point you can start bumping the offset back down again to try and perfect that Z offset.\n\nAlternately you could do what I do and print on a raft with a 50% density first layer, but I get the feeling if you're printing on glass you probably want to be able to just print on the glass.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10529,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,steve,1.726248027126092,3.1447983993774047,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,\"Printing with PETG, printer says it's out of filament when it clearly is not\",\"Background:\n\nI have an Alfawise U20 (CR10 clone) and am still somewhat of a noob, though I've been learning as much as quickly as time will allow.\n\nThe Alfawise U20 has \"\"out-of-filament\"\" detection, though I'm not 100 % certain how it works. I think that there's a roller across from the toothed knob that drives the filament into the Bowden tube, and if the roller doesn't roll, that means the filament has run out(?).\n\n\n\nI've become fairly proficient printing with PLA but this is the first time I've tried printing with PETG.\n\nProblem:\n\nAlmost immediately after starting a print, the printer pauses the print and displays message \"\"Out of filament. Would you like to change filament?\"\" There's not even time for the toothed knob to click, which I've seen when trying to print PLA too fast/too cold.\n\nIf I manually extrude some filament, it seems to work fine. When I resume the print, it will print for anywhere between ~2 seconds & ~5 minutes before pausing again, prompting me to change filament.\n\nI'm printing at 240 °C. I've seen opinions vary pretty far & wide wrt how hot to print PETG, with some people saying you can print successfully as cold as 215 °C, and others saying you should crank it up to 250+ °C. This filament is rated for 230-250 °C extrusion.\n\nAgain, manually extruding filament works fine. No slippage, no clicking. Smooth extrusion.\n\nI've read that PETG is extremely hygroscopic. Could my problem be caused by the filament having absorbed too much water? How would I even determine if this was the cause?\n\nWhat else could be causing my problem? I've read some printers' \"\"out of filament\"\" detection have problems with translucent filaments?\n\",steve,\"Shoutout to @0scar for posting a photo of the filament sensor, that was super helpful. Also thanks to everyone else who pointed me to the filament sensor and resources around that.\n\nI also tracked down this review which had great information around my printer's filament sensor as well. It turns out that the hole that goes to the sensor is way too big and there's a lot of play with the filament. As I jiggled the filament up & down I could hear the sensor clicking on & off, clearly indicating that if the angle of entry of the filament was too low, the sensor would not be depressed and this would continue to be a problem.\n\nSo for my next print, I did what that reviewer suggested and simply unscrewed the sensor & taped it so it would not stop my print. My print was unsuccessful for other reasons (under-extrusion/failed to adhere to the build plate ), but at least I think I've figured out what's going on with my filament sensor. Thanks again everyone!\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10540,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,MStarha,2.528907649931287,3.079570220207228,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Printing non-commercial model to make money,\"If a customer sends me a non-commercial 3D model to print, am I allowed to charge money for the 3D printing process? I understand I cannot charge anything for the model nor offer it as a part of my business.\n\nI cannot download the model myself, print and sell it, but if the customer downloads it and sends it to me for me to print it, is it a violation of the license or not?\n\",cmm,\"I agree that intellectual property is complex. I am not a lawyer, but have been in the middle of patent and copyright actions.\n\nIn my non-legal opinion, you are providing a printing service for which you are free to charge your customer whatever you agree on. You are not responsible for the disposition of the resulting objects. You do not know how your customer intends to use them. They may be using them for commercial or non-commercial activities. They may have a license to use them in a way that is unknown to you, and, again IMO, they have no obligation to disclose their relationship with the IP holder. That license could be part of their trade advantage.\n\nIf the customer asks you to work with the design to make changes, and the license prohibits derivative works, I would be careful.\n\nNever-the-less, the smell test always applies. If it seems to be illegal, unethical, or immoral, you might choose to forgo the customer and avoid any possibility of being tainted by their activities, if it should turn out that they are behaving badly.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n10540,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,MStarha,2.528907649931287,3.079570220207228,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Printing non-commercial model to make money,\"If a customer sends me a non-commercial 3D model to print, am I allowed to charge money for the 3D printing process? I understand I cannot charge anything for the model nor offer it as a part of my business.\n\nI cannot download the model myself, print and sell it, but if the customer downloads it and sends it to me for me to print it, is it a violation of the license or not?\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"Intellectual property law is complex, so you might want to consider getting proper legal advice. However, to respect the original designer's intent you need to look at what their license permits and try not to find a loophole in the process. There is nothing to stop you asking the designer (in public or private) to clarify their intent.\n\nThe biggest 'non-commercial' restriction reason is to protect the design idea, and stop someone mass-producing a clever design for profit. This applies irrespective of the original designer's intent to monetise their work.\n\nAnother big reason might be to 'hold back' the time invested in the design. Maybe the designer wants to share something they spent a lot of time on, for individuals to appreciate rather than profit from. The designer would presumably gain reputation as a result of wider knowledge of their work.\n\nSometimes, a design inherits licensing restrictions from a 3rd party (even maybe from the design tools used). For example, Fusion360 can be used for free by small companies, students, or for hobbies and personal learning, but has restrictions on commercial, professional or for-profit use. In that case, you would need to ask clarification from the tool provider.\n\nThe case you describe is complicated. You can't sell the printed part, but a 3rd party can probably contract you to print the part (or rent time/access to a printer). However, your contract rate can't include any element of value derived from the model. Assuming there is no explicit license condition, you should be OK if you charge for your direct costs. As soon as you include time, profit, or any modification to the model, you are on less solid ground.\n\nTo consider a non-obvious use-case of the Fusion 360 license, a student may well not have their own printer (particularly for an exotic material, or living in university accommodation). Can they contract a fabrication company to commercially produce or evaluate their model for the purposes of education or not?\n\nI don't expect you will find a definitive answer to this question since there are too many variables. Creative Commons have a page about their Non Commercial license which identifies some things to consider when you interpret a license.\n\nAs noted in the comments, you can divide your time and professional contribution (and thus billable items) into several steps. By providing a model, the customer skips step 1:\n\n\nmaking the digital model\npreproduction (slicing)\nprinting\npostproduction (cleaning off support)\n\n\nA clear license would refer to all of these.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n10552,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Groone,1.726248027126092,3.697472914088804,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,3D print appears to print very weak walls in long print,\"So after a long print the walls in the print begin to weaken and it appears they might not be printed at all. In the upside down picture you can see the weakness where the two pieces are separated. I'm wondering if perhaps reducing my speed and changing the extrusion size from .35 to .45 which is larger than the extruder itself. Thanks for any help and suggestions!\n\n\n\",Sean Houlihane,\"A filament tangle is one possibility, one alternative is that you are seeing a jam in the extruder. The trigger for a jam might be excessive retraction, heat soak or some other issue with the heat-break. Less likely, you might have an electrical problem which is position dependant.\n\nThe extrusion-related issues won't necessarily react in an 'obvious' way to any tweaks you make to the parameters (for example, slower might exacerbate heat-soak because the downward filament flow and thus cooling effect is lower).\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10552,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Groone,1.726248027126092,3.697472914088804,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,3D print appears to print very weak walls in long print,\"So after a long print the walls in the print begin to weaken and it appears they might not be printed at all. In the upside down picture you can see the weakness where the two pieces are separated. I'm wondering if perhaps reducing my speed and changing the extrusion size from .35 to .45 which is larger than the extruder itself. Thanks for any help and suggestions!\n\n\n\",0scar,\"What you refer to as weak walls in fact are under-extruded walls. This can be caused by multiple sources, but, since the print recovers this most probably is caused by filament that is entangled on the spool (this causes more friction for the extruder and as such less flow, so under-extrusion; like as if the filament is being pulled back). Any other source that may induce extra friction is equally valid. E.g. kink in filament when using a Bowden configuration (long time extra friction in tube) or friction on the spool itself (I once had severe under-extrusion as the spindle of the spool caught a plastic bag which got wrapped around).\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10575,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,fluSneez,1.0891412423578797,3.3468467879848673,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Retraction Jamming Problem!,\"Recently I had this problem where I needed to change filament from PLA to PET-G or similar. And... filament jam. After playing around with different settings and speeds and still getting the same results I had to clean everything. And again during a print, it jammed.\n\nI brought a new nozzle, heating cartage, Teflon (PTFE) tube and some additional components(fans, new wires and so on) but still was the same. Now I'm waiting for a new set of hotend Mk8Design Needed kit. \n\nA week after the order and still waiting, I played with retraction a little. By default, it was set to 0.8 mm on Sli3er but I had set it to 4-6 mm because it gives the best results and no stringing. I changed it again to 1.5-2 mm and... no more jamming at the cost of getting stringing. I'm using PLA which I never had experienced strings before.\n\nSo, in summary, the problem occurs due my retraction setting. Either I have to live with strings and no jam problems or no strings but jamming problems during printing.\n\nHave someone had same problem as me? How did you fixed it? \n\n\nPrinter AlfaWise U30(bowden type) but it's no longer the same. \nMotherboard: MKS 1.4 Gen A4988 + DRV8825 Stepper drivers(no problems here)\nPID(Autotune), Calibrations and so on done correctly.\nFirmware latest marlin 1.1.9 (Tried bugfix but the same)\nSofware for slicing PE Sli3er (Tried Ultimaker Cura with same model and same problem)\n\n\",cmm,\"I had problems with jamming PETG due to retraction. My model had many retraction moves, such that the amount of filament used during a printing move was less than the retraction distance. I found that several trips through the feed gear flattened the filament, which caused two problems. \n\n\nThe flattened (or ovaled) filament had trouble fitting through the round holes and tubes, and\nSince it was thinner, the filament was not gripped as tightly so there was less force pushing it.\n\n\nI reduced my feed gear pressure and the problem stopped.\n\nPETG is not as stiff as PLA. The multiple trips through mangle flattened it.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10580,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,N. Bar,1.0891412423578797,2.8020788675182238,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,\"Using a Full Spool of Filament, Read as \"\"Empty\"\"\",\"I have a cheaper consumer-grade printer that I've owned for a couple of years now. It is an XYZ da Vinci Mini W and it seems to recuperate its incurred losses from selling a cheaper printer by jacking up the prices on their filaments. I don't have much of a problem with this (and I'm not asking to \"\"hack\"\" the chips to let me use cheaper filaments), but I went to switch out my filament with a full one I had laying around and I noticed the chip case it contained was a chip (probably removed by somebody for some odd reason). I used a chip that I had laying around, but the printer read the full spool of filament as \"\"empty\"\" because of the old chip. Because of this, I was wondering if there was a way to force the printer to keep printing when the spool is \"\"empty\"\" or if I can somehow reset the chip.\n\",0scar,\"From what is read online, it depends on the firmware version your printer has. It seems that later versions keep track of tag serials and reports tampered tags as non-genuine tags. The best and most recent reference found is from 2018 which describes you should be creating new tags instead of resetting existing tags. This involves installing an Android App from unverified source and new \"\"paper\"\" NFC213 tags.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10610,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,John Zhau,1.726248027126092,3.0241567845277415,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Using both .gcode and .gbr files in a hybrid 3D printer + circuit etching machine? (RepRap 1.4 with Marlin firmware),\"I'm making a hybrid 3D printer and circuit etching (CNC milling) machine that can both 3D print and etch prototype circuit boards. I'll be using Marlin firmware with an Arduino Mega & RepRap 1.4 board. It will have a 3D printer head and a milling head side by side. I'd like to have it be able to read both .gbr (for circuit etching) and .gcode (for 3D printing) files. How should I configure Marlin to read both types?\n\",Fernando Baltazar,\"Well, I'm Using pronterface to send the gcode to print the traces of my PCB with an ink pen (sharpie); since the parameter in the Marlin-Rep rap1.4 is configured to fast print, So I can easily send the code just setting the origin or Zero to print on any area of the printer. \n\nTo set the new Zero just use the code G92, for example we need to print in the middle of the printer, so just move the spindle to that position and set G92 X0 Y0, then andjust the Z height then set G92 Z0. for your milling add a Z secure travel to avoid collide with the surface and or mechanical clamps\n\nThis video shows a PCB print in the 3Dprinter, so for the milling process will be the same. The video shows also the process making the holes on the CNC; I didn't do in the 3d printer because in that time I hadn't a dremel support. \n\nAlso Tech2C teach how you can configure the whole printer, just follow this link\n\nSo, be happy milling in your 3d printer\n\n\n Note: for gbrl files I haven't tested but you can try to read and send\n your code thru this program (pronterface) probably you cand get some\n messages like \"\"uknown code\"\" just like gcode sender does while trying\n to send codes for laser etching (old versions).\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n10610,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,John Zhau,1.726248027126092,3.0241567845277415,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,1.7550683581421125,Using both .gcode and .gbr files in a hybrid 3D printer + circuit etching machine? (RepRap 1.4 with Marlin firmware),\"I'm making a hybrid 3D printer and circuit etching (CNC milling) machine that can both 3D print and etch prototype circuit boards. I'll be using Marlin firmware with an Arduino Mega & RepRap 1.4 board. It will have a 3D printer head and a milling head side by side. I'd like to have it be able to read both .gbr (for circuit etching) and .gcode (for 3D printing) files. How should I configure Marlin to read both types?\n\",Davo,\"You can use both .gcode and .gbr files one one machine. We do it where I work.\n\nHowever, when we make prototype circuit boards, we don't print them; we acquire circuit board blanks, and then we either:\n\n\nUse a diode laser to burn off the top layer of garolite for isolation traces, then do a chemical dip to remove that copper, then another laser burn to expose pads for surface mount components; or\nUse a spindle tool to remove the top layer of garolite where needed for pads, as well as mill through the copper layer for isolation traces.\n\n\nWe have not found a printable material that has the conductivity we want in a circuit board.\n\nSource: I work for Hyrel 3D\n\n\n\nNote: we don't use Marlin on Arduino, we use in-house firmware on STM32F429 boards. \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10709,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,John Zhau,2.1782824847157594,3.171906017490645,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.488653845767225,Spindle DC motor and drill bit specifications for Circuit etching CNC machine,\"I'm making a Circuit etching machine (CNC) and I need a good DC motor and drill bit for the spindle. \n\nMy machine should be able to etch, drill, and cut:\n\n\nEtching: take copper off the surface like chemicals or a laser would\nDrilling: drill holes for THT (through-hole) components and possibly 2-sided boards\nCutting: cut out a piece of the board (cutting a big piece in half or cut a circle out of a big piece)\n\n\nI'd like to have 1 drill bit work with all 3 functions if possible. Having to switch out different bits is OK but a single bit is prefered.\n\nWhat sort of specifications should my spindle DC motor (rpm, voltage/amperage rating, ...) and drill bit (material, size, angle, ...) have? \n\",Greenonline,\"TL;DR\n\nFrom Davo's and cmm's answers there seems to be a wide range of drill spindle speeds used (3k-30k rpm). So, just to add to that... 11,000 rpm would appear to be adequate.\n\n\n\nI have been looking into converting a Wilson II 3D printer chassis into a CNC PCB etching machine, recently. In particular, what motor I needed to replace the extruder with.\n\nA collegue pointed me to an interesting video, PCB making, PCB prototyping – UV solder mask STEP by STEP, produced by Wegstr (no affiliation whatsoever), and their machine uses a 11,000 rpm drill. From the specification page:\n\n\n \n Spindle - Brushless AC motor \n Diameter of spindle - 3.175 mm (0.000737 inch) \n Spindle speed - 11 000 rpm\n Electronic overload protection for the spindle motor\n \n\n\nApparently DC motors suffer from carbon brush wear, so a combination of DC circuitry and brushless AC motor is used for \"\"superior performance and durability\"\".\n\nThe voltage and current of the spindle motor is unclear/unspecified, but the PSU, that comes with it, outputs 12 V 5 A.\n\nHowever, the parts page lists the spindle motor separately, spindle 11000rpm, with the following specifications:\n\n\n \n 26V DC power supply\n 11000 rpm\n designed for tools with shank diameter 3.175 mm\n fastening tool with the setscrew \n in the rear spindle 4x M4 threaded hole for mounting on a substrate\n power consumption 25W\n brushless construction => no carbon brush wear => long life \n low noise\n \n\n\nSo, given the voltage and power consumption the current rating would seem to be ~1 A.\n\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n10709,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,John Zhau,2.1782824847157594,3.171906017490645,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,2.488653845767225,Spindle DC motor and drill bit specifications for Circuit etching CNC machine,\"I'm making a Circuit etching machine (CNC) and I need a good DC motor and drill bit for the spindle. \n\nMy machine should be able to etch, drill, and cut:\n\n\nEtching: take copper off the surface like chemicals or a laser would\nDrilling: drill holes for THT (through-hole) components and possibly 2-sided boards\nCutting: cut out a piece of the board (cutting a big piece in half or cut a circle out of a big piece)\n\n\nI'd like to have 1 drill bit work with all 3 functions if possible. Having to switch out different bits is OK but a single bit is prefered.\n\nWhat sort of specifications should my spindle DC motor (rpm, voltage/amperage rating, ...) and drill bit (material, size, angle, ...) have? \n\",Davo,\"At Hyrel, where I work, we use a 12 VDC, 3.5 A, 40 W spindle tool with 1/4\"\" chuck and 3,000 rpm max (without load) to make prototype circuit boards by machining through the copper layer to make isolation traces.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n10614,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Alex Groza,2.1782824847157594,2.6493643560602123,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,I can't install plugins on OctoPrint?,\"I have installed OctoPi on my Raspberry Pi 3B+, that is connected to an MKS GEN L v1.0 motherboard for my 3D printer (Ender 3 Pro). When I open my OctoPrint into a browser I can use it, but I wanted to install some plugins. First time I had an error that said my server was offline, after connecting my Raspberry to WiFi and setting up a static ip-address, I've connected my Raspberry to my main board, after that it said the status of OctoPrint was operational, so I expected it will work.\n\nSadly, it says that my installation doesn't have internet, so I still couldn't install plugins. I see that in the \"\"connectivity check\"\" my host is 8.8.8.8 and my port 53; I've pressed on test and there it said \"\"server is unreachable\"\".\n\nWhat am I supposed to do?\n\",0scar,\"This is a known issue (WIFI fine, but no internet connection to install plugins) and could well be related to firewall or blocking of certain ports by your Internet Service Provider (ISP).\n\nI quote from the provided link (OctoPrint issue tracker):\n\n\n Disabling the connectivity check did fix the repository access. The check was configure to use google (8.8.8.8) on port various ports (22, 53, 5000, etc. Not sure the default). I do not have any firewall set up outgoing, unless it is buried in the Raspberian install that I am not aware of.\n\n\n\n\n\n I stumbled across this issue with the same problem, and I fixed the connectivity check by changing the IP to OpenDNS with 1.1.1.1 instead of the Google DNS 8.8.8.8 set by default.\n\n\n\n\n\n For me this issue was resolved when I update Date+Time on the raspberry...\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10629,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mr_PineCow,2.1782824847157594,2.9268557087492164,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Why is my 3D printer not extruding properly?,\"I have a Duplicator i3 mini, which has yet to make it a month without breaking. This time it is extra broken because the filament is not extruding properly. the most successful print I've had yet had about a centimeter before turning into an absolute mess. I have a picture. It was not stringy, and had the exact shape i was trying to print, but was like a frame of a sort. I am printing with matterhackers MH build series PLA, which has worked before this started happening. What should I do? What troubleshooting steps should I take?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Underextrusion and clogs can also be caused by insufficient temperature in the hot end. You've not reference your temperatures, so consider to use a test model and print at different temperatures. Too low temps can result in the problem you present, while too hot temps will increase stringing and peculiar blobs on the print. \n\nIf your slicer changes print speed at the layer of destruction, it may also be too fast, which is related to temperatures. Simplify3D allows speed variation as well as temperature variation at selected layers, but it requires deliberate action on the part of the operator.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n10629,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mr_PineCow,2.1782824847157594,2.9268557087492164,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,Why is my 3D printer not extruding properly?,\"I have a Duplicator i3 mini, which has yet to make it a month without breaking. This time it is extra broken because the filament is not extruding properly. the most successful print I've had yet had about a centimeter before turning into an absolute mess. I have a picture. It was not stringy, and had the exact shape i was trying to print, but was like a frame of a sort. I am printing with matterhackers MH build series PLA, which has worked before this started happening. What should I do? What troubleshooting steps should I take?\n\",user77232,\"That looks like underextrusion as a result of a clog. Try cleaning the nozzle or replacing it.\n\nSee this link for more information about clogged nozzles.\nIf I have a nozzle clog, can I easily get rid of it by simply replacing the nozzle?\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10640,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Nobody,1.0891412423578797,3.2230983134145625,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Why don't LCD printers use subpixels in color panels?,\"The LCD resin printers I've looked at have pretty standard resolutions like for a smartphone and I understand they use the same technology. However, color LCD screens have three RGB sub-pixels for each color pixel. Check for example this magnified picture of an S-IPS LCD screen:\n\nIt seems like they could just omit the color filter and have three grayscale pixels for each color pixel.\n\n3D printing just uses one color - UV. So why don't they have resolutions that are multiples of three of the usual resolutions?\n\nAll results about sub-pixels that I could find are about anti-aliasing, which is different (using the existing pixels better vs. having more pixels).\n\",cmm,\"It should be as simple as using a monochrome LCD. You don't actually want any color filters to interfere with the UV light.\n\nDo we know that LCD printers are not using monochrome LCD panels? It always seemed so obvious that I assumed it was the practice. All you need are the front and back polarizer layer and the LCD itself to rotate the light.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10641,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,coopw,2.1782824847157594,3.923771970853891,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Using a XYZ printer on Linux,\"I have a da Vinci miniMaker and am trying to find a way to get XYZware on my computer which is running Ubuntu Linux 19.04. On the XYZprinting website I found references to a version build for Ubuntu, but it was an outdated version with no download link. If anyone knows any way to print to any XYZ 3D printed on Ubuntu, it would be appreciated if you could let me know.\n\",R..,\"XYZprinting is a company known for vendor lock-in (even filament), so it's not surprising that their software's Linux support is bad, but apparently it is possible to ditch their XYZware and get it to print gcode from whatever slicer you like. Check out the miniMover repository:\n\n\n This is a project that lets you send GCode to an XYZ da Vinci prniter. It will also convert from a .3w file to .gcode and back, and can monitor and setup the printer as well. This works with newer printers that implement the version 3 serial protocol. These include the Nano, Mini W, miniMaker and Jr. line of printers among others.\n\n\nYou'll also need to setup a profile for your printer in a slicer (I'd recommend Ultimaker Cura), but it looks like the thread linked from the README has information on settings needed.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n10656,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,scarroll,0.0,2.717179978327238,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Models are printing with a scratch on the side,\"I just recently got an Ender 3 and have been trying to learn the do’s and don’ts. My first model looked like it had under extrusion and stringing, but my second model looks like it has frequent “scratches” along the sides. I printed it with two materials, a white sample PLA that came with, and a black Sunlu PLA.\n\n\n\nI could use some insight on how to improve it, I’m seeking to make some fairly smooth looking models similar to Fat Dragon games.\n\",0scar,\"The vertical lines you are referring too are the result of ringing or vibration. This is commonly encountered with high print speeds, high acceleration values or if a sudden change in direction takes place.\n\nThis can be solved by printing slower, decreasing acceleration values and checking for mechanical issues. E.g. the belts may be too flexible (or contain a tension spring) or there may be a loose part somewhere. \n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n10664,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user875234,2.1782824847157594,4.590864390440718,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,2.746326330407206,1.9721387515589952,How can I print a 1 cm overhang with minimal supports?,\"Here's the thing I want to print.\n\n\n\nThe red ring is 3.5 mm above the bottom of the orange cylinder. The red ring is 1cm thick. I'd prefer not to use supports because I tend to break as much as I clean up.\n\nI know this could be done in two pieces but then I'd have to make sure the pieces fit and then glue it in at that's too much. It'd be ideal to print this as one piece. How can I do this with as few supports as possible?\n\",cmm,\"Three ideas\n\n\nIf either side of the red ring can have a chamfer to meet the cylinder, add the chamfer and print with the chamfer side down.\nIf both sides of the red ring must be perpendicular to the axis of\nthe cylinder, can you print the cylinder lying on its side? You\nmight get good enough print quality, especially if printing with\nthinner layers toward the top.\nIf that is unsatisfactory, try explicitly adding an inner support\nring as part of the model. Don't depend on the slicer to do what\nyou want, do it yourself. You would then be bridging to make the\nred disk, but that can work surprisingly well with a good cooling\nfan and printer.\n\n\nIn all three cases, consider the slot holes you have in the red ring. For case 3 you may need to add a support around those holes as well. In case 2, they would want to be pointed vertically. In case 1, the chamfer would be modified to have holes of cavities matching the slot holes.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n10664,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user875234,2.1782824847157594,4.590864390440718,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,2.746326330407206,1.9721387515589952,How can I print a 1 cm overhang with minimal supports?,\"Here's the thing I want to print.\n\n\n\nThe red ring is 3.5 mm above the bottom of the orange cylinder. The red ring is 1cm thick. I'd prefer not to use supports because I tend to break as much as I clean up.\n\nI know this could be done in two pieces but then I'd have to make sure the pieces fit and then glue it in at that's too much. It'd be ideal to print this as one piece. How can I do this with as few supports as possible?\n\",0scar,\"Most slicers have extensive settings to control the layout of the support structures, the distance to the overhanging part, line thickness, etc.\n\nIf that doesn't work out for you, you can always change the design to add custom support structures yourself to not having to fiddle with the support settings.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10750,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user875234,1.726248027126092,2.835469776828434,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,What clearance should I leave between parts that are supposed to fit together perfectly when using a .6mm diameter nozzle?,\"Here's the thing that I'm working on putting together (the purple stud on the bottom right should be up higher like the one on the left).\n\n\n\nNotice how the purple studs fit into the red ring? Well, most of the parts are like that in one way or another. That is, most of the parts need to start right where another part ends with no gap and without being too tight. \n\nAre there any good rules of thumb for knowing how much smaller a male part needs to be to fit into a female part? I want a good fit but I don't want to have to jam them in.\n\nI'm doing this at the library and just getting down there and setup is an ordeal. The blue cylinder (4x102mm) alone takes almost 4 hours to print with a nozzle size of .6mm. ...I imagine this is how it must have felt when people had to program on punch cards, lol. Except, this isn't just a logic thing. It's an experimentation thing and it's taking up a ton of my time.\n\nHow can I get these parts to fit together perfectly like they do in my model?\n\",R..,\"First, find or make a tolerance checking test print. This basically just involves a few cylinders with diameters something like 0.1, 0.15, 0.2, 0.25, 0.3, ... mm smaller than a cylindrical hole, and lets you figure out what works without going through lots of iterations on your actual part design or time on the printer. Make note that diameter (2 gaps) vs radius/gap-width (single gap) is a really important distinction here.\n\nWith that said, your design does not look well-suited to 3D printing. The purple studs are going to break. That's pretty much a given. And overall there are just way too many pieces. A big part of the advantage of 3D printing is that you don't have to assemble things out of parts that would be easy to produce (or available stock) with traditional manufacturing methods. You can often produce a complete working result all in one print, or two or three if there really need to be separable parts.\n\nI would replace the purple studs and red piece that looks like it's intended to allow easy connection/removal with a threaded interface. That would distribute the forces much more evenly, and it's easier to print. If you don't care what orientation it stops at, it's super easy; otherwise you have to put some sort of stop or predict where the friction will hold it.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n10673,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tasty213,2.1782824847157594,3.565257109573455,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Printer keeps pausing during prints,\"I'm having a rather strange issue in that the printer pauses randomly during prints. This was first noticed when printing a large and complicated model (from SD). Since then a 20 mm calibration cube has been printed (from USB) with no issues (paused briefly after printing the skirt), it was used in conjunction with M92 G-code command to calibrate the stepper motors. Now i'm trying to print a temperature tower but it pauses multiple times even on the first layer (tried USB and SD). How do i ensure that the printer does not pause during prints?\n\nHere's a link to a video of the printer pausing (trying to print a temperature tower).\n\nSlicer details:\n\n\nUltimaker Cura 4.0\nAlso tried slic3r 1.3 32 bit \nThe temperature tower had a change temperature at Z injected into the G-code but none of the others did.\n\n\nPrinter details:\n\n\nAnycubic S\nFirmware 1.1.2\nfilament PLA+\nfirmware reprap/marlin\n\n\",jkp,\"I had a similar problem some time ago. The problem in my case was, that in the slicer I had a minimum layer time, which was pausing the printer until that time had passed. I can't remember the name of the settings and I'm not at home right now, but the slicer can either print full speed and pause or it can slow down, to maintain a minimum layer time. I guess the idea is to give the plastic time to cool down. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10677,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,openyk,1.726248027126092,3.3519732380519804,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,First layer prints too thin causing gaps everywhere,\"\n\nI'd assume insufficient z offset but some areas of the first layer look fine. I've been struggling with this problem despite lots of attempts including z offset, infill overlap, belt retensioning, etc.\n\nAnyone else experienced this type of issue and have suggestions to fix it properly? \n\nI'm using polylite PLA and a E3D steel nozzle. 60 °C bed temp, 230 °C first layer.\n\nEdit: Print speed is 30 mm/s first layer, 60 mm/s normal. This issue occurs on the first few layers then the rest get increasingly better, with the final layer being excellent. \n\nEdit2: Despite lowering the temp to 205--210 and increasing the z offset downwards, the problem persists, though to a lesser degree. Just gaps at ends of infill lines and between straight and circular walls. But seems it only occurs on the lower left and upper right (birds eye view) of the print.\n\n\n\nEdit3: The lower left and upper right being further from the nozzle coincides with my removal process using the knife on the lower left and upper right.. Maybe this part of the problem I'll have to bend back in place?\n\nNozzle bed measurements below:\n\n\n\nEdit4: Optimizing the Z offset according to the first layer thickness remained only a partial solution especially as my bed unevenness (1mm+) was past the auto-leveling limitations (<0.5mm), but I found a great thread (link below) with a \"\"correct\"\" solution that worked for a lot of people! After I try this I will come back and write about my experience with the solution.\n\nhttps://forum.lulzbot.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=7904&hilit=bed+leveling+SOLVED\n\",0scar,\"From the picture it is clearly seen that the filament is not flattened properly. This implies that your nozzle bed distance is too large. Try decreasing the gap by leveling the bed at temperature and have a piece of \"\"A4\"\" or \"\"Letter\"\" print paper between the nozzle and bed have a little friction when pulled.\n\nAlso reduce the temperature, 230 °C is too hot for PLA (unless your printer temperature is way off, but that is not very likely), try 200 °C.\n\nAnother thing that you could check is if the extruded length is exactly what is instructed to be extruded; i.e. calibrate the extruder. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10677,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,openyk,1.726248027126092,3.3519732380519804,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,First layer prints too thin causing gaps everywhere,\"\n\nI'd assume insufficient z offset but some areas of the first layer look fine. I've been struggling with this problem despite lots of attempts including z offset, infill overlap, belt retensioning, etc.\n\nAnyone else experienced this type of issue and have suggestions to fix it properly? \n\nI'm using polylite PLA and a E3D steel nozzle. 60 °C bed temp, 230 °C first layer.\n\nEdit: Print speed is 30 mm/s first layer, 60 mm/s normal. This issue occurs on the first few layers then the rest get increasingly better, with the final layer being excellent. \n\nEdit2: Despite lowering the temp to 205--210 and increasing the z offset downwards, the problem persists, though to a lesser degree. Just gaps at ends of infill lines and between straight and circular walls. But seems it only occurs on the lower left and upper right (birds eye view) of the print.\n\n\n\nEdit3: The lower left and upper right being further from the nozzle coincides with my removal process using the knife on the lower left and upper right.. Maybe this part of the problem I'll have to bend back in place?\n\nNozzle bed measurements below:\n\n\n\nEdit4: Optimizing the Z offset according to the first layer thickness remained only a partial solution especially as my bed unevenness (1mm+) was past the auto-leveling limitations (<0.5mm), but I found a great thread (link below) with a \"\"correct\"\" solution that worked for a lot of people! After I try this I will come back and write about my experience with the solution.\n\nhttps://forum.lulzbot.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=7904&hilit=bed+leveling+SOLVED\n\",Artonn,\"White PLA is some of the nastiest stuff to print with, it's very impure. Could you try to make the same print, but with another filament?\n\n230 degrees might be a bit too high of a temperature, normally PLA is printed between 215-225. Try to decrease and increase the temperature with 5 degrees to see if there is any differences as well.\n\nAlso, could you show us a completely flat, 1 layer print? Basically just a rectangle. Basically I want to see your first layer height.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10680,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Warren,1.726248027126092,3.841500735601597,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,1.1827783713261073,1.0718911890698015,Under extrusion when starting outer wall,\"See the pictures below. I have a severe under extrusion when the printer starts the outer wall, which is resolved by the time it finishes the outer wall. It starts the layer in the same place every time, so it results in this vertical line, on one side of which is fine (where it finishes the layer) and the other side has bad gaps and the wall is much thinner.\n\nIn this picture, the problem is on the outer wall (see red outer line, the print head is moving counter clockwise.\n\n\n\nAnd here is the print showing the issue. Just fine on one side, but terrible on the other, precisely where it starts the layer. Strangely, this only occurs on the layers with infill. The top layers seem fine (despite starting in the same place). I have disabled retraction with no effect.\n\nHere you can see it start at the tip and get gradually better as it progresses.\n\n\nHere you can see that by the time it finishes, it's just fine, and also what a contrast is between the start and end. That should be a flush edge, there.\n\n\nAnother view\n\n\nIs there some setting that I should be tweaking? I've exhausted my own ideas of different tweaks to no avail.\n\nThe printer is a Monoprice Maker Select V2. I'm using Ultimaker Cura 4.1.0.\n\n\n\n\nMaterial: PLA\nLayer height: 0.24 mm (in the pictures, but replicated with 0.16 mm also)\nTemp: 205 °C, here (but tweaking this hasn't had any effect)\nRetraction: Disabled\n\n\nThis doesn't happen on layer changes. Although it does line up with the Z seam, you can see from the G-code visualization below that the outer wall is the very last thing it does. The issue occurs at the start of the outer wall (still on the same layer) that it has the issue, but by the time it ends the wall (just before switching layers) it is fine.\n\nI've tweaked a few other settings, one by one, and seeing if any have any effect. So far, not really:\n\n\nOuter Wall Wipe: 0.2 (default), 0.8, 0.0\nJerk Control - Wall Jerk max velocity change, 5 mm/s\nOuter Wall before inner (Yes instead of No)\nWall Line Count (3 instead of 2): This improves it some, but I suspect just by making it a little more difficult to see\n\n\nEdit 2\n\nI reset all settings in Cura to a default \"\"Draft\"\" setting and then set layer height to 0.24, and turned off Infill. Then I have tried prints with different settings for \"\"Retract Before Outer Wall\"\" and printing temperature. \n\nHere are those results:\n\nThese pics seem to suggest a very clear lag in extrusion. 1 and 2 are different temps. 2 and 3 are different retraction.\n\n205 Celsius, 0 Infill, Retract Before Outer Wall: Off\n\n\n195 Celsius, 0 Infill, Retract Before Outer Wall: Off\n\n\n195 Celsius, 0 Infill, Retract Before Outer Wall: On\nNote: the retraction setting resulted in a noticeable pause before printing the outer wall. Retraction distance is 6.5mm, and this is not a Bowden fed device.\n\n\nThere doesn't seem to be anything strange about the G code, either. Here are the G0 travels just before the outer wall followed by the wall.\n\n...\nG0 F7200 X106.319 Y93.413\nG0 X106.26 Y93.909\nG0 X107.213 Y93.658\nG0 X107.8 Y92.542\nG0 X107.286 Y90.844\nG0 X107.509 Y90.394\n\n; (outer wall of outside)\nG1 F1328 X107.985 Y90.707 E116.98713\nG1 X108.38 Y91.128 E117.01098\nG1 X108.658 Y91.623 E117.03444\nG1 X108.813 Y92.18 E117.05833\nG1 X108.832 Y92.751 E117.08193\nG1 X108.713 Y93.315 E117.10575\nG1 X108.463 Y93.837 E117.12966\n; (first curve complete, on to straightaway)\nG1 X99.631 Y107.716 E117.80936\nG1 X98.912 Y108.59 E117.85612\n...\n\n\nEdit 3\n\nThese are retraction off, and 205C\n\nIf I set the \"\"print speed\"\" in Cura to 20 mm/s (normally 60 mm/s), the outer wall speed is reduced from 30 mm/s to 10 mm/s. The result is quite good.\n\n\nIf I leave the \"\"print speed\"\" at 60 mm/s and adjust only the outer wall to 10 mm/s, it's still quite good.\n\n\nSo it seems like an acceleration thing. If I can figure out how to get it to slow down in just the right spots or compensate in some way, then perhaps I can make this problem go away with minimal sacrifice in total speed.\n\",tbm0115,\"As @user77232 points out, you may have a general flow rate issue which can be adjusted in your slicer.\n\nHowever, it looks like your machine might be retracting during some of the center layers. Notice the first few layers extrude relatively normal, then it under extrudes, then it goes back to relatively normal a few layers before a ceiling. Also note that the under extrusion seems to stop exactly where the z-step occurs (see the z-step seam).\n\nThis link shows that it's possible it could be your retraction settings before each layer. I'm not sure what it is with Cura, but in MakerWare and older slicers you could specify a retract distance before each layer. I would try reducing this. Also, these older slicers had different retract rates/distances for bases, floors, main wall, supports, bridges, top layers and more. So, this could be why you have different results throughout Z in your part.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10680,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Warren,1.726248027126092,3.841500735601597,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,1.1827783713261073,1.0718911890698015,Under extrusion when starting outer wall,\"See the pictures below. I have a severe under extrusion when the printer starts the outer wall, which is resolved by the time it finishes the outer wall. It starts the layer in the same place every time, so it results in this vertical line, on one side of which is fine (where it finishes the layer) and the other side has bad gaps and the wall is much thinner.\n\nIn this picture, the problem is on the outer wall (see red outer line, the print head is moving counter clockwise.\n\n\n\nAnd here is the print showing the issue. Just fine on one side, but terrible on the other, precisely where it starts the layer. Strangely, this only occurs on the layers with infill. The top layers seem fine (despite starting in the same place). I have disabled retraction with no effect.\n\nHere you can see it start at the tip and get gradually better as it progresses.\n\n\nHere you can see that by the time it finishes, it's just fine, and also what a contrast is between the start and end. That should be a flush edge, there.\n\n\nAnother view\n\n\nIs there some setting that I should be tweaking? I've exhausted my own ideas of different tweaks to no avail.\n\nThe printer is a Monoprice Maker Select V2. I'm using Ultimaker Cura 4.1.0.\n\n\n\n\nMaterial: PLA\nLayer height: 0.24 mm (in the pictures, but replicated with 0.16 mm also)\nTemp: 205 °C, here (but tweaking this hasn't had any effect)\nRetraction: Disabled\n\n\nThis doesn't happen on layer changes. Although it does line up with the Z seam, you can see from the G-code visualization below that the outer wall is the very last thing it does. The issue occurs at the start of the outer wall (still on the same layer) that it has the issue, but by the time it ends the wall (just before switching layers) it is fine.\n\nI've tweaked a few other settings, one by one, and seeing if any have any effect. So far, not really:\n\n\nOuter Wall Wipe: 0.2 (default), 0.8, 0.0\nJerk Control - Wall Jerk max velocity change, 5 mm/s\nOuter Wall before inner (Yes instead of No)\nWall Line Count (3 instead of 2): This improves it some, but I suspect just by making it a little more difficult to see\n\n\nEdit 2\n\nI reset all settings in Cura to a default \"\"Draft\"\" setting and then set layer height to 0.24, and turned off Infill. Then I have tried prints with different settings for \"\"Retract Before Outer Wall\"\" and printing temperature. \n\nHere are those results:\n\nThese pics seem to suggest a very clear lag in extrusion. 1 and 2 are different temps. 2 and 3 are different retraction.\n\n205 Celsius, 0 Infill, Retract Before Outer Wall: Off\n\n\n195 Celsius, 0 Infill, Retract Before Outer Wall: Off\n\n\n195 Celsius, 0 Infill, Retract Before Outer Wall: On\nNote: the retraction setting resulted in a noticeable pause before printing the outer wall. Retraction distance is 6.5mm, and this is not a Bowden fed device.\n\n\nThere doesn't seem to be anything strange about the G code, either. Here are the G0 travels just before the outer wall followed by the wall.\n\n...\nG0 F7200 X106.319 Y93.413\nG0 X106.26 Y93.909\nG0 X107.213 Y93.658\nG0 X107.8 Y92.542\nG0 X107.286 Y90.844\nG0 X107.509 Y90.394\n\n; (outer wall of outside)\nG1 F1328 X107.985 Y90.707 E116.98713\nG1 X108.38 Y91.128 E117.01098\nG1 X108.658 Y91.623 E117.03444\nG1 X108.813 Y92.18 E117.05833\nG1 X108.832 Y92.751 E117.08193\nG1 X108.713 Y93.315 E117.10575\nG1 X108.463 Y93.837 E117.12966\n; (first curve complete, on to straightaway)\nG1 X99.631 Y107.716 E117.80936\nG1 X98.912 Y108.59 E117.85612\n...\n\n\nEdit 3\n\nThese are retraction off, and 205C\n\nIf I set the \"\"print speed\"\" in Cura to 20 mm/s (normally 60 mm/s), the outer wall speed is reduced from 30 mm/s to 10 mm/s. The result is quite good.\n\n\nIf I leave the \"\"print speed\"\" at 60 mm/s and adjust only the outer wall to 10 mm/s, it's still quite good.\n\n\nSo it seems like an acceleration thing. If I can figure out how to get it to slow down in just the right spots or compensate in some way, then perhaps I can make this problem go away with minimal sacrifice in total speed.\n\",R..,\"Based on other comments, answers, and question edits so far, in addition to your original question, I believe there are possibly two things going on here: incorrect retraction settings, including a misunderstanding of which settings are relevant and what they do, and issues related to slow acceleration. Both relate to misdepositing/loss of material.\n\nFirst, some basics. When the filament is advanced to the point needed to extrude material and print at the intended volumetric rate, it's under significant pressure, compressed between the extruder gear and the nozzle. My understanding is that your printer has a direct drive extruder, not a bowden, so there's far less compression than with a bowden setup but it's still there. This means that, if you try to stop extruding, it's material will continue to come out of the nozzle, just at a decreasing rate, until the pressure dissipates. This effect is reduced but still present if the nozzle is held-against/moving-over already printed material, and heavy if moving over empty space, even moreso if moving across sparsely-filled space like infill where it will bond with the already-deposited material and get \"\"stretched\"\"/\"\"pulled\"\" out.\n\nThe idea of retraction is to pull the filament back when the print head is moving to a new location without trying to deposit material, to relieve this pressure and prevent unwanted misdepositing/loss of material, and to reverse the process, putting the filament back exactly where it was when the last printed line ended, the next time it starts trying to deposit material.\n\nThe relevant options in Cura are:\n\n\nEnable Retraction - must be on\nRetraction Distance - should be at least 5-6 mm for bowden setups, probably more like 0.5-2 mm for direct drive.\nRetraction Minimum Travel - should be 0\nCombing Mode - try different settings. Off is probably the best relative to your issues, but hurts your print time a lot for certain models, and can hurt quality in other ways.\n\n\nEverything else related to retraction is fairly irrelevant, especially \"\"Retract at Layer Change\"\" is a niche option and not typically useful. As I understand it, turning just \"\"Retract at Layer Change\"\" on does not mean retraction is on.\n\nNow, your other issue may be acceleration. Extrusion works best as acceleration speed approaches infinity, because the extrusion rate and pressure needed to extrude will be fairly constant for the entire line/curve. If acceleration is very slow, pressure will be wrong during the start and end of lines. It's likely that, due to high pressure, excess material will get deposited at the end of one line while slowing down, then after moving to start the next line, even if you retract the filament, you'll have insufficient pressure at the nozzle after reversing the retraction to start the next line.\n\nA jerk limit of 5 mm/s is really low. I'm used to more like 20-30 mm/s. You don't say what your acceleration limit is, but it's probably also low. Slow acceleration has minimal impact if your max speed is slow, because you quickly reach the max speed and most of the print speed (and thus extrusion rate) is steady. But if you want to print at high speeds, you need high acceleration. Try and see if you can increase it. Or accept printing at slow speeds.\n\nAnother option, if you're open to hacking on your printer, is replacing the stock firmware with a recent version of Marlin with the Linear Advance feature. It does the math to model the filament pressure as a spring, with a spring constant you can tweak, so that it can compensate for varying print speed and end lines with approximately no pressure remaining.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n10682,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Sri Harsha,0.0,2.55797842413943,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Please suggest parameters for 0.5 mm diameter nozzle,\"I am building an FDM machine on my own. I am not using any commercial software. So I have a lot of questions regarding the right parameters to choose. I am having 0.5 mm diameter nozzle. What are the parameters that I am supposed to choose? The general parameters that I need to know are:\n\n\nExtruder head speed (mm/s) \nLayer thickness (mm.) \nRoad width (mm) \nFilament feed rate (mm/s)\n\n\",Mick,\"These parameters are not fixed. FDM printers are designed to work over a range speeds, feed rates, layer heights, extrusion temperatures, etc, depending on the type of print job and the filament type used. If you design a printer to work with fixed parameters, you are unlikely to get good results.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10701,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Reinstate Monica,2.528907649931287,4.08659954222661,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,How to estimate the printing time of a 3D printer from an STL file?,\"My local library has a 3D printer (Lulzbot Mini) for patrons to use. The prints are limited to 4 hours and if I go after work I really only have two hours before the Library closes. The software at the Library will give an estimated time, but I would like to be able to estimate the time before I get there.\n\nCurrently I have been creating my designs in TinkerCad and then I export the STL file. From the STL file I can find online estimators that will tell me how much material but nothing that says how long it will take to print.\n\nIs there a way of calculating the estimated printing time from a STL file for a given printer?\n\",0scar,\"It is already established that is is possible to calculate the estimated print duration by this anwer. \n\nThe most accurate estimation is obtained with specific settings for the printer. So if you have access to the printer, your most accurate estimation would be using the software from the manufacturer or correctly setup third party software. Going to the library twice might work out as you have one day to tweak the print to get it done in 4 hours, the other day to print the file generated the day earlier. Note that there are also community solutions (cheaper than commercial printer services) available where you select the most nearby printer and let somebody else print it for you.\n\nAs an alternative (to try at home), if you navigate to the LulzBot website you can find a specific release for the LulzBot printers e.g. download here and use their released profiles (from this location) to slice your print using the material to print the object in. Note that these slicing parameter files are for the TAZ, the slicing parameters can be applied to the mini. Note that this will cause an inaccuracy for the print time, but will serve as a good start.\n\nFrom their website you can read that:\n\n\n How to Download and Use Print Profiles\n \n To get printing right away, the default LulzBot TAZ print profiles listed below can be imported into Cura LulzBot Edition for ready-to-print settings. To download and save the configuration file, right click and select Save As.\n In order to use the print profiles below you will need to switch to the Full Settings view (Expert > Switch to full settings). After downloading, import the Cura print profile by selecting, in Cura, File > Open Profile. Navigate and select the pre-set Cura print profile file of choice.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10701,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Reinstate Monica,2.528907649931287,4.08659954222661,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,How to estimate the printing time of a 3D printer from an STL file?,\"My local library has a 3D printer (Lulzbot Mini) for patrons to use. The prints are limited to 4 hours and if I go after work I really only have two hours before the Library closes. The software at the Library will give an estimated time, but I would like to be able to estimate the time before I get there.\n\nCurrently I have been creating my designs in TinkerCad and then I export the STL file. From the STL file I can find online estimators that will tell me how much material but nothing that says how long it will take to print.\n\nIs there a way of calculating the estimated printing time from a STL file for a given printer?\n\",user77232,\"There is no way to estimate the print time of an STL file directly.\n\nThe print time is based on the number of instructions in the g-code file plus the time it takes to move the effector (the hot end) around the build area. The only way to compute that is to know what settings their slicer is using and then slice your stl the way they will; and this is assuming that you have the same slicer software. If you manage to do that, then the slicer software will give you an estimate.\n\nHere is what you would need to do:\n\n\nGet access to the same slicing software, and obtain a copy of\nthe profile that they use to slice with. The nozzle diameter, feed\nrate, layer height, and infill settings will affect the print time.\nImport your stl into the sofware and \"\"slice it\"\" There will usually be a large button that is used to generate the g-code. There are quite a few slicers that will output the print time into the text of the g-code. They may also show the print time on the UI during slicing.\n\n\nalternatively: Email the stl to the staff at the library, and them to generate an estimate for you. They might just do it.\n\nHowever, that estimate could be incorrect. It will depend on the printer itself. As an example: the time it takes to heat the bed and the hot end is never included in the time estimate the slicer gives.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n10703,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Stand,1.0891412423578797,3.6912794068058914,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Ender 3 under extrusion,\"I have a new Ender 3, it was printing fine using the Ultimaker Cura 4.1 slicer. I printed about 1/2 a roll of blue 1.75 mm filament through a 0.4 mm nozzle. All my prints were Ender 3 mods (plus one cover for a device I had). \n\nThen it stopped printing 1/2 way through printing a bracket for the Y-axis to allow for a damper.\nAfter several days of under extruded parts that I aborted I discovered that the extruder motor was stopping intermittently and that turned out to be a bind in the motor. I replaced the motor, but it continued to under extrude. I replaced the stock extruder feed with Anpro Upgrade, MK8 Extruder Aluminum Alloy Block Bowden Extruder 1.75 mm Filament for Creality 3D. The same problem remained. \nI did the extruder test with 120 mm marked on the filament and only about 60 mm went through. \nBy increasing the flow to 150 % I can print usable parts, but that seems like a bandaid covering up the real problem. Of course, I have cleaned the hotend, changed the nozzle and the feed tube.\nI have assumed that during the feed test of 100 mm you should preheat the nozzle before the gcode G1 E100 F100 ; Extrude 100 mm at 100 mm a minute is issued.\nIs there any point in removing the nozzle or the feed tube and issuing this 100 mm/100 mm command?\n\nI have ordered a new hot end, but I'm beginning to suspect the board itself is not feeding correctly. Help?\n\n\n\nI removed the Bowden tube from the hot end and issued the 'G1 E100 F100` and it feeds exactly 40 mm. Do I possibly have a second bad motor? I currently have no way of modifying the code on the board. Is there a factory reset for the Ender 3?\n\",Stand,\"OK, I have my Ender 3 back to printing nice looking objects. It turns out at some point since the original bad E-stepper I must have pushed the \"\"load settings\"\" menu item. I set my E steps to 98 from 93. and then did a \"\"save settings\"\". I have no idea why going from 93 to 98.03 increased my extrusion from 40mm to 100mm (trial and error, because the formula said I needed to go to 232.5!).\nFor those that don't know, the \"\"save settings\"\" stores the current settings in EEPROM. These setting override the factory configuration setting when you reboot. If while you are messing with setting and you lose track of things you can do a \"\"load settings\"\" to get your previous settings back to start again. The \"\"initialize EEPROM\"\" reloads the stored configuration settings including the settings that you saved. \nMore intelligent explanation here:\n\r\n \r\n \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10724,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Джон Смит,1.0891412423578797,2.2804870714504255,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Getting started with converted STL to DXF,\"I converted the STL file through an online converter https://www.cadforum.cz/catalog_en/stl2dwg.asp\n\n(I work in the program autocad 2017)\nNow I open the resulting DXF and I don’t know how to work with it. How do I merge polygons into a whole model?\n\",Джон Смит,\"I figured it out. Need to go: Network -> conversion to surface\n\nThen we get a surface that is already easy to work with.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n10730,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kolleen Kilduff,1.726248027126092,2.846247604045449,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Auto home issue on ender 3,\"I own a Comgrow Creality Ender 3 3D Printer Aluminum DIY with Resume Print 220x220x250mm\n\nI am a newbie and last night finally got a halfway decent print, but tonight I went to Auto Home it and it just keeps trying to move down, down down even though it physically can't go any lower. The z-axis just keeps trying to spin down. The long threaded metal rod just keeps turning like it needs to keep moving down. Any ideas?\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"It sounds like your z-stop isn't engaging when it's supposed to. The z-axis end stop should be located at the left of the build plate on the z-axis column. When the gantry (with the printhead) comes down, it should contact that. If it doesn't contact it, or if the end stop isn't functioning (isn't sending the signal to stop), the z-axis will just continue to try and go down. Check to ensure it touches where you want it to touch, and if it is, then check the operation of the end stop. You can do that with a multimeter set to ohms. Just detach the wiring from the main board, place your two multimeter leads on either wire end, then click the end stop. it should go from no continuity to full continuity when you hear the end stop click.\n\nEDIT: The endstop should look something like this:\n\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10754,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gregir,1.726248027126092,4.084851449618667,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Ender 5: Bowden tube shifts in/out of extruder during retractions,\"I have an Ender 5 with an aluminum extruder that was printing beautifully for a few days after building it. I received a Capricorn bowden tube and new couplings as a gift, and replaced those, and now I have stringing issues I can't solve. \n\nI've been all over the map with settings (temps, speeds, z-hop, retraction, etc. etc.), I've swapped the tubes, the couplings, the filament, I've checked for clogs, and put clamps on the collars, but no matter what I do, the tube shifts in and out during retractions by about .25 - .5 mm. I suspect that has something to do with the stringing, as nothing else has solved it. \n\nAny suggestions are appreciated. I haven't made adjustments to the extruder, but I don't know if that's possible or necessary. I've never had a system using the bowden, so that part of 3d printing is new to me. I'm using 3d Solutech PLA.\n\",R..,\"If it's just the pressure fitting on the brass coupler that shifts in/out, or the PTFE tube shifting slightly in/out but remaining in the coupler, that shouldn't be a problem unless it's so loose it can come out entirely. The blue clips which should have come with the printer are intended to stop this motion or at least provide enough pressure to prevent it from falling all the way out.\n\nRegarding the small 0.25 - 0.5 mm of play, effectively it just means you lose that much length from your retractions, since part of the retraction goes into pulling the tube back into the coupler. When the retraction is reversed, the effective filament position should go back to what it was before the retraction. As long as your retraction amount is sufficient after the loss, it should not cause stringing.\n\nYou probably need to look for another cause of your stringing.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n10755,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,d mcatee,1.0891412423578797,2.634955868424173,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Setting the startpoint of the EZABL 3x3 mesh,\"How do I set the startpoint of the EZABL 3x3 mesh. The startpoint is hitting my bed clip.\n\",0scar,\"The \"\"EZ\"\" company (TH3D) is trying to make flashing firmware easy by making choices in the configuration for people to set based on printer type. While this makes the flashing more accessible to more people, it does not help people to understand what actually happens in the firmware or what is meant by certain settings. See it as an automated process to add automatic bed levelling to a number of printer models.\n\nTo change the bed probing area, you need to modify some specific lines that specify the probe area. How you should change this is explained in this answer on question \"\"How to set Z-probe boundary limits in firmware when using automatic bed leveling?\"\". It would be best to set or increase the constant MIN_PROBE_EDGE. This effectively makes the probe area smaller so you will not hit the bed clips.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10760,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tasca Qiu,1.0891412423578797,2.7548616721246675,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Problems with Z-axis: Z-axis raised not enough at the beginning,\"My printer had some Z-axis issue. Here are the details:\n\nWhen I was printing a model, the bottom of the model got bumpy edges(as shown in pic), and the height of the model was a little bit shorter(about 5% shorter).\n\n\n\nI thought it might be caused by the Zsteppers/mm. But after I tweaked up the Zsterppers/mm, the problem remained. I realized that the extruder raised not enough at the beginning of the printing. So I print a small cube which hight is 2mm. And the following pic is the result:\n\n\n\nDoes anyone know what might cause this?\n\nThanks in advance.\n\",Tasca Qiu,\"Here are my problem and my solution. Hope this will help others.\n\nAs @R.. suggested, I checked my carriages and as well as z-axis guide wheels(I think it is called guide wheel). And I found that the guide wheels were too tight. I can't rotate them will my fingers. So I used a spanner to adjust the eccentric nuts until the guide wheels can be rotated by two fingers. Do not make the guide wheels too loose, it may cause shaking or other problem.\n\nSince I don't know the exact name of each part. I marked them in the pics. If you know the correct name of the parts, welcome to correct me, I will edit it in my post.\n\nSpecial thanks to R.. :P\n\nHere are the pics:\n\n\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10767,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Robby Wasabi,0.0,2.877598637377739,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,LCD for SLA 3D Printer Resin Curing,\"I'm doing some research on what types of LCD displays can be used to filter and pass UV light for resin curing - specifically in the context of building a DIY 3D SLA printer.\n\nThe community commonly uses the Sharp LS055R1SX03 module. Looking through the datasheet, there doesn't seem to be any information pertaining to the characteristics of the device when passing UV wavelengths. Is there something special about this module that allows it to filter/pass UV wavelengths compared to other common LCD displays?\n\",Bob R,\"I am not an expert by any stretch but I hope this helps, but these are regular old TFT LCD screens. You can even get 4K ones and use them for the same process. You can for example pick up 4K displays such as the H546UAN01.0 and do the same with them. \n\",0.0,0.0\n10779,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bill Wang,1.0891412423578797,2.990353475154485,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Why do my prints have such a rough surface? (Taz Lulzbot Pro),\"Model: Taz Lulzbot Pro\n\nThings we tried to get it to work:\n\n\nTried both ABS and PLA Hatchbox brand\nUploaded new set of settings from another printer of the same brand that works using the hatchbox.\nTried using Polylite PLA with Ultimaker Cura Lulzbot edition settings\n\n\nThe printer managed to print, but the samples printed were of very poor quality and are filled with ridges and has an uneven surface (I've attached a picture below). The printer automatically cancels the print and quits printing on layer three because the nozzle rubs against these ridges and cannot print properly.\n\n\n\nWhat are settings that may lead to this issue? What is a good place to start trying to improve my results?\n\",Charles Duffy,\"This looks like Z axis offset is set incorrectly. That should come with an appropriate setting from the factory (for my printer it's -.85mm), but that setting can get lost a few ways; you can either reenter the factory setting (if your print head hasn't been opened up), or recalibrate -- but if doing the latter, be sure the nozzle is clean, or the calibration routine can cause the problem you're trying to solve!\n\n\n\nIf You've Never Reassembled Your Toolhead\n\nCheck that the settings from the QA record are still installed.\n\nYour printer came with a sheet of paper including all the measurements that were taken when the calibration prints that came with it were created. If you updated firmware with several versions of Cura LE between the Pro's release and the fix for the relevant bug, the update would have cleared the EEPROM with those settings. A good place to start is to put them back in.\n\nThe full set of settings isn't just Z axis offset, but also offset between the two heads, and backlash measurements -- but if you lost Z axis offset, you're likely to have lost all of them, so it's worth going over the full set.\n\n\n\nIf You Have Reassembled Your Toolhead\n\nClean the nozzle, and rerun automatic calibration.\n\n\"\"Clean the nozzle\"\", that is, by bringing it up to temperature and using the brillo pad that came in the little toolkit with the printer.\n\nWhen I say \"\"automatic calibration\"\", I'm not referring to the leveling routine that runs with every print, but the longer routine that's accessed under \"\"Measure automatically\"\" button in the backlash or nozzle offset \"\"Advanced Settings\"\" LCD menu.\n\nThe automatic calibration routines determine when the head is in contact with the calibration cube via electrical conductivity. If there's anything on the head that can stop a circuit from being created the moment it touches the cube, that's going to throw off the calculated locations.\n\n(BTW, if your printer doesn't warn you on the LCD display that the head should be clean and unloaded when running this operation, you're probably on old firmware; update Cura LE, and let it upload new firmware for you).\n\nThe test print at https://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/TAZ_Pro/v1.0.3/sample_prints/calibration/vernier_dim-test.gcode (which is perhaps more compact than the one that came with your printer, if you got one of the very first units off the assembly line) pairs with the instructions/documentation in steps 15-19 at https://ohai.lulzbot.com/project/calibration-taz-pro/quiver/. That said, the Z-axis measurements are mostly pertinent for the very beginning of step 15, measuring the height of the skirt around the print before it starts. (You'll want to either pause or cancel the print to remove the skirt for measurement in your calipers; the sample gcode delay isn't long enough to do it carefully otherwise!).\n\n\n\nAnd Don't Be Afraid To Call Support\n\nCustomer service from folks who know their stuff and are around evenings and weekends are part of what you're paying for when you buy a Lulzbot. The above is taken from my experience diagnosing quality issues on a TAZ Pro, but support knows what they're doing much better than I do; don't be shy about taking advantage!\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10781,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,William Jerome,2.528907649931287,3.1308310189973176,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Bigtreetech upload stalled after uncommented REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER,\"I recently bought a BigTreeTech SKR V1.3 and uncommented REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER and clicked the upload button but faced an error that says:\n\nMarlin\\src\\lcd\\ultralcd.cpp:767:9: error: 'touch_buttons' was not declared in this scope\nif (touch_buttons) {\n^~~~~~~~~~~~~\nMarlin\\src\\lcd\\ultralcd.cpp:767:9: note: suggested alternative: 'buttons'\nif (touch_buttons) {\n\n^~~~~~~~~~~~~\nbuttons\nMarlin\\src\\lcd\\ultralcd.cpp:805:5: error: 'else' without a previous 'if'\nelse wait_for_unclick = false;\n^~~~\n*** [.pio\\build\\LPC1768\\src\\src\\lcd\\ultralcd.cpp.o] Error 1\n\n\nI am not sure what above message means, but can anyone else shed some light on why I am receiving these errors?\n\nFWIW, I am using Marlin 2.\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"Marlin 2.0.0 is in an Alpha state. 'Alpha' is a state before Beta, meaning, it's not hot off the presses, it isn't even off the presses. You need to go back to the most recent \"\"stable\"\" version of Marlin, which is 1.1.9 (found on the same page as the link above). This should most likely solve the errors and problems you're seeing.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10781,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,William Jerome,2.528907649931287,3.1308310189973176,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Bigtreetech upload stalled after uncommented REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER,\"I recently bought a BigTreeTech SKR V1.3 and uncommented REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER and clicked the upload button but faced an error that says:\n\nMarlin\\src\\lcd\\ultralcd.cpp:767:9: error: 'touch_buttons' was not declared in this scope\nif (touch_buttons) {\n^~~~~~~~~~~~~\nMarlin\\src\\lcd\\ultralcd.cpp:767:9: note: suggested alternative: 'buttons'\nif (touch_buttons) {\n\n^~~~~~~~~~~~~\nbuttons\nMarlin\\src\\lcd\\ultralcd.cpp:805:5: error: 'else' without a previous 'if'\nelse wait_for_unclick = false;\n^~~~\n*** [.pio\\build\\LPC1768\\src\\src\\lcd\\ultralcd.cpp.o] Error 1\n\n\nI am not sure what above message means, but can anyone else shed some light on why I am receiving these errors?\n\nFWIW, I am using Marlin 2.\n\",towe,\"Marlin 2.0 is still very much in development.\n\nIf you face issues like this and you're certain you haven't introduced any typos,\ntry downloading the most current version of Marlin again (Github -> Download -> Download zip).\nCopy in your configuration files and try to compile.\n\nIf the issue persists, you may try to use a version from a few days / weeks ago.\nFor this, select a previous commit from this list, and press the <> button to activate it.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10785,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gogeta70,2.528907649931287,4.0358816850627095,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How to fight lots of stringing with PLA at low temperature (185 °C)?,\"I just got my first 3D printer (Creality Ender 3) on Friday, 2 days ago. It works great, but for some reason I'm getting a lot of stringing on my prints, especially the ones where the extruder head has to move a long distance between columns/posts, etc.\n\nI'm using Hatchbox \"\"True White\"\" PLA, which has a recommended temperature range of 180-210 °C. I've tried printing at 200, 190, and 185 °C and didn't see much improvement. I've also made sure I've enabled the 'retract' setting in the slicer (4.5 mm) and verified the printer is retracting when it should.\n\nI'm not sure what else I can try... any suggestions?\n\",R..,\"4.5 mm is a low retraction distance. Cura's default is 6.5 mm, and the Ender 3 profile provided with Cura sets it to 6 mm. The first thing you should try is increasing the retraction amount up to at least 6 mm. Also, make sure you actually enabled retraction. I saw one question here where a Cura user had enabled \"\"Retract at layer change\"\", which does not enable retraction (but of course it shows the options like retraction amount since you need to be able to select it for this too).\n\nYour low nozzle temperature of 185 °C is also a problem. You'll have very low flow at that temperature, resulting in under-extrusion and pressure building up in the nozzle instead of extruding the material. That in turn will make it so, even after retracting, there's still material (and pressure) at the nozzle and it will keep oozing, unless you set a really high retraction amount (and even then problems will build up over time during the print, but you might get lucky and not see them). The only way to print PLA at 185 °C is really, really slowly.\n\nIn general, some people would also recommend trying a different filament, based on reports that some vendors' PLA oozes and strings badly, but I don't think that's an issue for you. I use Hatchbox filament on my Ender 3 all the time and never have a problem with stringing from it. And even if the filament is prone to stringing, you can almost surely avoid it with proper settings. Even very soft flex filaments can be printed on this printer without stringing as long as your retraction, temperature, and speed are tuned to avoid having pressure at the nozzle during travel moves.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n10789,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,3d Printer,0.0,3.2292362727989086,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Can I use a 12 V single channel optocoupler module in a 24 V machine?,\"I have a Tevo Tornado Gold 24 V. I want to use this LJ12 A3-4-Z/BX Inductive NPN NO 4 mm with 6-36 V operation current as a Z probe. I do not want to fry my machine by putting in 24 V into the sensor input.\n\nWhat do I have is a 12 V, single channel optocoupler isolation module.\n\nI want to know if this 12 V optocoupler module can be used with a 24 V power supply, or do I need another module in order to prevent me frying my sensor.\n\nIf I do need another what would I need?\n\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"You can safely use the module with 24V.\n\nThe input side shows a red LED, optocoupler and 1k resistor in series. The LED and optocoupler probably have a voltage drop in the neighbourhood of 3.1-3.5 V put together, so for a 12 V input you will get a current of approximately 9 mA-.\n\nFor a 24 V input voltage the increased current will cause a slightly higher voltage drop, but even if the voltage drop remains as low as 3.1 V the current will still only be 21 mA. This is well within the rating of the optocoupler (similar optocouplers are often rated for 60 mA) and slightly pushing the rating of the LED (similar LEDs are usually rated for 20 mA) but it will probably be fine.\n\nFor extra peace of mind you could connect an additional resistor in series with the input. The \"\"ideal\"\" value (that is, to keep the current identical to that at 12 V) would be 1.3 kΩ, though any small value resistor (above 100 Ω) would be fine.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10789,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,3d Printer,0.0,3.2292362727989086,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Can I use a 12 V single channel optocoupler module in a 24 V machine?,\"I have a Tevo Tornado Gold 24 V. I want to use this LJ12 A3-4-Z/BX Inductive NPN NO 4 mm with 6-36 V operation current as a Z probe. I do not want to fry my machine by putting in 24 V into the sensor input.\n\nWhat do I have is a 12 V, single channel optocoupler isolation module.\n\nI want to know if this 12 V optocoupler module can be used with a 24 V power supply, or do I need another module in order to prevent me frying my sensor.\n\nIf I do need another what would I need?\n\n\",Trish,\"Not using a 12 V rated module \"\"on its own\"\".\n\nUsing a 12 V/5 V optocoupler to try to connect 24 V to the 5 V circuit is running the optocoupler outside of its rating, meaning you will destroy it, either immediately or after a short time.\n\nA properly rated one\n\nTo shield the 5 V against the maximal 24 V from the probe without extra parts, you will need to use a 24 V/5 V optocoupler.\n\nTrickery with voltage dividers\n\nWith a 50 % voltage divider made from two properly rated resistors, you could limit the voltage to the optocoupler, which in turn would turn the 24 V signal into a 12 V signal, which would protect our optocoupler and the board beyond.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10792,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ashmin Antony,1.0891412423578797,3.007463813452983,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How can I become a certified Fusion 360 user?,\"I heard about the certification program from autodesk website.\n\nHow can I prepare and write this certification exam as a student? I already started using fusion 360 about a month.\n\",CrossRoads,\"Start with registering at their website and go from there. There is a PDF of a list of things you have to have mastery in:\n\n\n \n SKETCHING\n \n \n Sketch Creation\n Create Dimensions\n Constraint selection and creation\n Edit a sketch\n Project Edges\n Edit a Sketch\n \n DRAWING\n \n \n Creating a Drawing View, Base, Projected, Section, Detail\n Add Annotations\n Editing a Created View\n Edit Border and Titleblock\n \n SCULPT\n \n \n Create a Form\n Edit a Form\n Thicken a Form\n \n DIRECT MODELING\n \n \n Feature Deletion\n Press & Pull Tool\n \n ASSEMBLY MODELING\n \n \n Create and Manage Top Level Assembly and Subassemblies\n Create a Component From a Body\n Align and Assembly Joints\n Interference\n Rigid Groups\n Motion Studies\n \n ADVANCED MODELING\n \n \n Sweep and Loft\n Boundary Fill\n Split and Combine bodies\n \n PART MODELING\n \n \n Create extrude features\n Apply Fillets and Chamfers\n Create complex hole features\n Create revolve features\n Create a pattern of features\n Create a shell feature\n Create Construction Planes and Axes\n Inspect command; measure, and section analysis\n \n \n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n10796,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,moniquemarie,1.726248027126092,3.298894097750058,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mini - Not reaching temperature -> screen freezes,\"I have been having some issues with my Cocoon Create Model Maker/Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mini. The hotend doesn't get up to temperature. \n\nI will go to any of the heating functions (start print, preheat, add filament, etc.) and it will begin to reheat the nozzle. The temperature rises until eventually, it stops at any number that is not the desired print temp and the screen freezes. Sometimes it will stop at 150 °C sometimes 180 °C. It all seems quite random but the screen is frozen when this happens. \n\nIf anyone had any thoughts it would be much appreciated. My last printer was abandoned due to a similar issue and it's incredibly frustrating.\n\",Fatih kavalcı,\"Maybe, the thermistor is not fully seated and does not measure temperature effectively. \n\nTry inserting the thermistor into the hole by filling the gaps with metal wire or conductive paste.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10820,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Florian Echtler,1.0891412423578797,2.9362955533623216,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,OpenSCAD weirdness with imported STL,\"I've tried to remix this model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:90933 (Bauhaus chess set) by scaling it down and inserting little magnet holes into the pieces' underside. My SCAD file looks as follows:\n\ndifference() { \n\n scale([0.5,0.5,0.5]) import(\"\"Bauhaus2Set.stl\"\");\n\n translate([ 6, 11 ,0]) cylinder(h=20.5,r=2.5,center=true,$fn=20); // WTH?\n\n // King/Queen\n translate([ 6, 11 ,0]) cylinder(h=3.5,r=2.5,center=true,$fn=20);\n translate([-6, 11 ,0]) cylinder(h=3.5,r=2.5,center=true,$fn=20);\n\n // Rooks\n translate([ 6,-11.5,0]) cylinder(h=3.5,r=2.5,center=true,$fn=20);\n translate([-6,-11.5,0]) cylinder(h=3.5,r=2.5,center=true,$fn=20);\n\n[...]\n\n\nNote the third line with \"\"WTH?\"\" - I've done quite some trial-and-error, and if I remove that line, then I don't get any subtracted holes anymore when I render the whole thing (F6). In preview (F5), the holes are always present, but in the final render, I need to include the larger subtracted cylinder or it won't work.\n\nThe STL file seems to be fine in itself, what's going on here?\n\",cmm,\"It is interesting that the WTH line and the next line both should remove a cylinder of the same diameter from the same location. Only the height is different.\n\nIt could be interesting to remove the first King/Queen line and see if there is a change.\n\nHave you checked the STL file with another tool, other than OpenSCAD? There may be a kink in the STL that confuses the geometry engine in OpenSCAD. The first difference could be catching the kink, and the second one carving out the magnet body in the bottom.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n10820,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Florian Echtler,1.0891412423578797,2.9362955533623216,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,OpenSCAD weirdness with imported STL,\"I've tried to remix this model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:90933 (Bauhaus chess set) by scaling it down and inserting little magnet holes into the pieces' underside. My SCAD file looks as follows:\n\ndifference() { \n\n scale([0.5,0.5,0.5]) import(\"\"Bauhaus2Set.stl\"\");\n\n translate([ 6, 11 ,0]) cylinder(h=20.5,r=2.5,center=true,$fn=20); // WTH?\n\n // King/Queen\n translate([ 6, 11 ,0]) cylinder(h=3.5,r=2.5,center=true,$fn=20);\n translate([-6, 11 ,0]) cylinder(h=3.5,r=2.5,center=true,$fn=20);\n\n // Rooks\n translate([ 6,-11.5,0]) cylinder(h=3.5,r=2.5,center=true,$fn=20);\n translate([-6,-11.5,0]) cylinder(h=3.5,r=2.5,center=true,$fn=20);\n\n[...]\n\n\nNote the third line with \"\"WTH?\"\" - I've done quite some trial-and-error, and if I remove that line, then I don't get any subtracted holes anymore when I render the whole thing (F6). In preview (F5), the holes are always present, but in the final render, I need to include the larger subtracted cylinder or it won't work.\n\nThe STL file seems to be fine in itself, what's going on here?\n\",R..,\"I see you've accepted cmm's answer, but I'd still like to take a stab at the mechanism of the failure based on your comment on it:\n\n\n Excellent explanation, thanks. The \"\"WTH\"\" cylinder is centered on the queen piece, and that has a sphere with lots of faces on top. So it looks like the \"\"kink\"\" is inside the queen where the sphere and the base cube overlap, and by accident, my trial-and-error removing of cylinders also removed just the right spot.\n\n\nMy guess is that if you look at the triangle set of the STL file, you'll find the interior of the queen contains the parts of the cube that are inside the sphere and the parts of the sphere that are inside the cube; they may not even be clipped to meet each other properly where they cross each other's surfaces. Sadly there are lots of tools producing invalid STL files like this. The longer cylinder is probaly sufficient to overlap with where the cube and sphere cross, forcing OpenSCAD to break down the model in that region and recompute the mesh where the components overlap. Without that recomputation, the differences likely end up interacting with just the \"\"sphere part\"\" of the STL mesh.\n\nThis explanation also seems to be consistent with the description of the thing on thingiverse:\n\n\n I much preferred the style of Bauhaus set that TeamTeaUSA's designed, but there was a lot of fiddling with the queen and the knight wouldn't print without supports. So I nestled the queen's sphere further into the body so it would print standing up, added supports for the knight and plated the whole thing.\n\n\nwhere it looks like the creator took someone else's STL files and moved parts around to create an overlap, likely without proper tooling that could regenerate a valid mesh.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10830,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Andreas,1.726248027126092,3.5689866985524614,0.0,5.646830619998737,1.8746593652159236,1.4809722072583325,Make holes in PLA print,\"I have a print I need to make holes in.\nI have read some other threads where the answers was in short, \"\"don't, print the holes\"\", and \"\"make sure to make the hole from the top or bottom\"\".\nThe problem is I need the hole in the side of a print with about 1 mm walls. \n\nThe holes I need is to run a USB cable in and a few to hold 3 mm LEDs.\nOne of the holes needs to be 10 mm. \n\nWhat is my best option?\nI read that there is a risk it cracks, so I was thinking maybe I can use a soldering iron for the smaller holes?\nThat will melt the plastic and create nice smooth walls, right? Less risk of cracks?\nThe piece will not be loaded in any way, it's just holdin it's own weight. \n\nI never anticipated that it would be an issue to drill holes in prints. If I had known it I might have tried more to change the print before ordering it.\n(I don't have a printer to make a new one with.)\n\nNote: The part has already been printed. This is a question about post-printing processing, not modelling for a new print.\n\",R..,\"3D-printed parts should not be so fragile that they crack from drilling holes. However, the material will melt if you drill fast, so go very slow. Also, they're usually not printed with solid infill. If you drill a hole in a thin wall (typically around 1.6 mm or less) then the sides of the hole should be solid just from the printed wall thickness, but if you drill a hole through something thicker, you'll create an opening into the sparse infill space in the object's interior. This might affect the strength of the part and will allow air/water/etc. to enter the interior, which probably doesn't matter for your usage case, but it's something to be aware of too.\n\nA soldering iron set to around 200°C is a perfectly good way to make holes too. It's harder to control the precise location and size of the hole, but if anything it will strengthen the part.\n\nFor future reference, it's a much better idea to just include holes in your design to be printed. As long as they're either round (as opposed to flattened ovals/square/etc.) or small, pringing holes horizontally should not be a problem. Vertically oriented is better if they'll be under load, but for passing wires or mounting things not under serious load either should be fine.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10830,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Andreas,1.726248027126092,3.5689866985524614,0.0,5.646830619998737,1.8746593652159236,1.4809722072583325,Make holes in PLA print,\"I have a print I need to make holes in.\nI have read some other threads where the answers was in short, \"\"don't, print the holes\"\", and \"\"make sure to make the hole from the top or bottom\"\".\nThe problem is I need the hole in the side of a print with about 1 mm walls. \n\nThe holes I need is to run a USB cable in and a few to hold 3 mm LEDs.\nOne of the holes needs to be 10 mm. \n\nWhat is my best option?\nI read that there is a risk it cracks, so I was thinking maybe I can use a soldering iron for the smaller holes?\nThat will melt the plastic and create nice smooth walls, right? Less risk of cracks?\nThe piece will not be loaded in any way, it's just holdin it's own weight. \n\nI never anticipated that it would be an issue to drill holes in prints. If I had known it I might have tried more to change the print before ordering it.\n(I don't have a printer to make a new one with.)\n\nNote: The part has already been printed. This is a question about post-printing processing, not modelling for a new print.\n\",JoeVanGeaux,\"I discovered a trick to drilling holes in plastics and its works well with PLA, too. \n\nFirst print your part with a somewhat undersized hole and, with your selected drill bit, run the bit backwards while seated in the printed hole. You can often use increased speed to create more heat from friction, but be careful when applying a little pressure on the bit and always remain aware that the bit could push through at any instant.\n\nIf you run the bit in its usual direction, it will more likely, and suddenly, bite into the plastic and make an ugly hole or split your print.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10835,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Andrés,2.1782824847157594,3.5945397744369445,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Replacing RAMPS 1.4 for 1.6,\"During the assembly of my printer, I accidentally shorted the RAMPS 1.4 board, looking for a replacement I found the RAMPS 1.6 which would eliminate the need for a MOSFET power module.\n\nMy question is, could I simply replace the RAMPS 1.4 for the 1.6 or should I make any other modification?\n\nMy printer is a Prusa i3 Graber Clone running Marlin\n\",Greenonline,\"RAMPS 1.6 is very similar to RAMPS 1.4. Most, if not all, of the changes are hardware improvements, without making the core functionality different. Looking at the incremental changes between versions:\n\nTo quote from RepRapWiki: RAMPS 1.5\n\n\n The RAMPS 1.5 is a variation of the popular RAMPS boards that, like\n all other RAMPS boards, is plugged into an Arduino Mega for operation.\n The layout of the RAMPS 1.5 is virtually identical to that of the\n RAMPS 1.4. The only real difference between the two are the MOSFETs\n and the fuses.\n\n\nTo quote from RepRapWiki: RAMPS 1.6\n\n\n The RAMPS 1.6 is the second RAMPS iteration released by\n BIQU/BIGTREETECH. It replaces the original green power connector with\n a pair of screw terminals, adds a larger heatsink over the MOSFETS,\n and has a larger bed MOSFET. It maintains the surface-mounted fuses\n and flush MOSFETS of the RAMPS 1.5.\n \n Also, the positions of the D1 and D2 diodes have been swapped from the\n positions in RAMPS 1.4, the D1 diode is now the diode closest to fuse\n F2. The same is true for RAMPS 1.5, also manufactured by\n BIQU/BIGTREETECH.\n\n\nSo, in short, yes, the RAMPS 1.6 should be a direct plug in replacement for the RAMPS 1.4.\n\nThat said, you may be able to salvage your RAMPS 1.4, if you can locate the part that has given up the \"\"magic smoke\"\". It could just be a blown capacitor, or diode. There have been a number of questions relating to that, so it might be worth searching for answers here, on SE.3DP1.\n\nIt is probably also worth reading RAMPS 1.4, 1.5 or 1.6?\n\n\n\nAdditional links\n\nAn interesting video, where a variety of RAMPS 1.4 boards are compared, is the first of a series, RAMPS series 1 of 5 - Intro and board comparisons - although beware the loud music...\n\nThere is also a RAMPS 1.6 Plus, and a RAMPS 1.4.2 which might be worth considering. I wrote up about these, briefly, (disclosure) in my personal blog, a couple of years ago: 3D Printer control boards.\n\n\n\nFootnote\n\n1 Such as How drastic is reversing the polarity of the power supply to a RAMPS board?, which might be relevant in your case.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n10981,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Andrés,1.726248027126092,2.4894835185571664,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Power supply not working,\"Yesterday during a print, the printer just stopped working and all motors and fans stopped. My printer is a Graber i3.\n\nJust before that I saw a flare coming from somewhere in the extruder or from the power supply, I couldn’t actually see.\n\nChecked the voltage coming into the RAMPS and it was 0 V, checked voltage coming from the power supply, also 0 V. Checked the voltage coming into the power supply and it was 217 V... that’s okay, the power supply is switched to 220 V.\n\nToday I tried further troubleshooting, by connecting the power supply to 127 V and having it switched to that voltage, before that I disconnected the RAMPS cable in case it was shorted. The result was the power supply did not work, the voltage coming from it was 0 V.\n\nGot in contact with the manufacturer since the printer is brand new and he is sending me a new power supply, but I do want to try to find the root cause of the problem, so I started looking for shorts in the RAMPS, hotbed is okay, no continuity. Neither of the other connections have shorts, until I got to the hot end heating cartridge, in this convection I found 5 Ω resistance between phases. This was at first no surprise because it makes sense since it’s a heating element, but wanted to make sure, is it okay to have this resistance in the cartridge?\n\nDo you guys have any other suggestion for troubleshooting or possible root causes for this issue?\n\nUPDATE 02/OCT/2019:\nI decided to open the power supply, so maybe I could fix it and have it as a back up. First thing I see once opened, the fuse was blown! So I replaced it, since it is soldered and it is a 8A 250V 3x10mm, which happens to be hard to find... took quite a while. Once the repair was done, plugged it in and boom, another firework happened, this time blowing a resistor and not the fuse.\n\nConclusion: it wasn’t the fuse, another thing caused the first and second shortening.\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"I would expect the root cause to simply be the power supply itself.\n\n5 Ω is a reasonable resistance for a 12 V / 30 W heater. It seems strange that you are not seeing continuity in the heated bed as this should also have a low resistance (since it's a heater as well). This might be worth investigating further, but I think it's more likely the power supply itself is the cause (and you simply made a measurement error).\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n10839,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gearoid Murphy,2.1782824847157594,2.835469776828434,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Ultimaker Cura is adding redundant top/bottom layers,\"I'm trying to print a supporting base which will house the spindle for an electrostatic rotor. It's basically just a truncated cone with a hole down it's center to house the spindle.\n\nFor reasons that I cannot fathom, Ultimaker Cura keeps on adding an unrequested top/bottom layer (color-coded yellow in the screenshots) inside this hole, so instead of a single hollow cylinder of 10 mm depth, the result is a hole only a few millimeters deep with another hollow cylinder behind it.\n\nHere is the intended model, note the open space for the hole at the top.\n\n\n\nHere is the inner view of the hole being printed as expected:\n\n\n\nFinally, here is a layer view of the print a few millimeters from the final top layer with the unrequested top/bottom layer that covers the spindle hole:\n\n\n\nThe STL file is on Github (with a built-in viewer).\n\nCan anyone help me understand why this is happening?\n\",fred_dot_u,\"It would appear that your model does not conform properly to STL standards. I base this conclusion on a couple of factors. When I loaded the model into Simplify3D slicer, it displayed fine, but when sliced, displayed nothing. Using the onboard repair feature, it presented the entire model as being composed of non-manifold surfaces.\n\nMeshmixer's Analysis/Inspector feature also highlighted the entire model as flawed.\n\nAnother observation is that there is an extraordinary amount of facets/triangles/faces to this model. Nearly three-quarters of a million triangles for something that should be much simpler.\n\nThe most recent version of Prusa Slicer 2.0 presents an error message indicating that no layers were detected. This is peculiar indeed.\n\nAll of the above points to a problem with the source file or the software used to create it.\n\nPlease consider to add to your post the program you used or the source of the model.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n10843,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,double0psycho,2.8153892694839717,2.729972460763979,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Help with my G-Code to change filament change mid-print,\"I'm using Ultimaker Cura, and I want to change the filament for a print that I'm attempting at layer 15. The problem I'm having is that I also need to use G-code to load and unload the filament with my BMG extruder. This is the script that Ultimaker Cura created for the post-process to pause at layer 15.\n\n;current layer: 15\nM83\nG1 F3000 E-25\nG1 F300 Z4\nG1 F9000 X100 Y100\nG1 F300 Z15\nM104 S25; standby temperature\nM0;Do the actual pause\nM109 S215; resume temperature\nG1 F3000 E25\nG1 F3000 E-25\nG1 F300 Z4\nG1 F9000 X101.7 Y137.3\nG1 F3000 E25\nG1 F9000\nM82\nG92 E763.80547\nG4 P1 \n\n\nThis is what I usually use to unload my filament:\n\nG21 ;Metric Values\nG90 ;Absolute Positioning\nM109 S205.000 ;205 Unload\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder Positioning\nG1 E10 F100 ;Extrude 10mm filament\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder Positioning\nG1 E-600 F1500 ;Retract Filament completely \nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nM400 ;Wait Command\nM117 REMOVE FILAMENT NOW ;LCD Message\nM400 ; Wait Command\n\n\nAnd to load:\n\nG21 ;Metric Values\nG90 ;Set absolute positioning\nM109 S205.000 ;Preheat PLA\nM300 S440 P200 ; Tone\nM300 S660 P250 ; Tone\nM300 S880 P300 ; Tone\nG4 S5 ; Wait 5 seconds\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder Position\nG1 E380 F1500; Fast Feed of 380mm filament\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder Position\nG1 E100 F200 ;Feed 100mm filament slowly\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder Position\nM400; Finish Move\n\n\nSo this is what I came up with, will it work?\n\n;current layer: 15\nM83\nG1 F3000 E-25\nG1 F300 Z4\nG1 F9000 X100 Y100\nG1 F300 Z15\nG92 E0; Reset extruder position\nG92 E-600 F1500; Retract Filament Completely\nM104 S25; standby temperature\nM0;Do the actual pause\nG92 E0; Reset Extruder Position\nM109 S215 ;Preheat PLA+\nG1 E380 F1500; Fast Feed of 380mm filament\nG92 E0; Reset Extruder Position\nG1 E100 F200; Slowly Feed 100mm\nM104 S25; Standby Temperature\nM0; Do the actual Pause\nM109 S215; resume temperature\nG1 F3000 E25\nG1 F3000 E-25\nG1 F300 Z4\nG1 F9000 X101.7 Y137.3\nG1 F3000 E25\nG1 F9000\nM82\nG92 E763.80547\nG4 P1\n\n\",Desko,\"First things first imho: M0 to stop the stamp. I dunno which firmware are you using but it should wait you to press a button on the LCD (Marlin does it). After that it run the gcode to unload and load the filament, resume temperature (M109 S215) and go ahead with the stamp.\n\nThis is my final version: \n\n M83\n G1 F3000 E-25\n G1 F300 Z4\n G1 F9000 X100 Y100\n G1 F300 Z15\n M0 ;Do the actual pause\n G21 ;Metric Values\n G90 ;Absolute Positioning\n M109 S205.000 ;205 Unload\n G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder Positioning\n G1 E10 F100 ;Extrude 10mm filament\n G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder Positioning\n G1 E-600 F1500 ;Retract Filament completely \n G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\n M400 ;Wait Command\n M117 REMOVE FILAMENT NOW ;LCD Message\n M400 ; Wait Command\n G21 ;Metric Values\n G90 ;Set absolute positioning\n M109 S205.000 ;Preheat PLA\n M300 S440 P200 ; Tone\n M300 S660 P250 ; Tone\n M300 S880 P300 ; Tone\n G4 S5 ; Wait 5 seconds\n G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder Position\n G1 E380 F1500; Fast Feed of 380mm filament\n G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder Position\n G1 E100 F200 ;Feed 100mm filament slowly\n G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder Position\n M400; Finish Move\n M109 S215; resume temperature\n G1 F3000 E25\n G1 F3000 E-25\n G1 F300 Z4\n G1 F9000 X101.7 Y137.3\n G1 F3000 E25\n G1 F9000\n M82\n G92 E763.80547\n G4 P1 \n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10845,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Fomite,2.1782824847157594,3.3819507842569205,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Is this articulated Turtle print failing because of over extrusion on a Taz Workhorse?,\"I've been working on calibrating my Taz Workhorse, and was dealing with some under-extrusion issues, despite checking the e-steps on the extruder and relatively modest retraction settings (2.5 mm at 25 mm/second).\n\nLulzbot tech support suggested I boost my flow to 105 % to account for this, and the little Lulzbot gear that resulted was decent (note this picture is after some minor string removal).\n\n\n\nI tried moving on to a articulated Turtle, and there's a consistent failure at 17 %, where you can hear the nozzle collide with a part and knock it off the print bed, followed by the usual mayhem.\n\n\n\nFrom looking at the parts, it looks like all the small joints in the piece have a lot of excess material in them, causing an upward arc, and eventually getting high enough that they're well over the height of the next layer. That's where the collision occurs, presumably.\n\n\n\n\nWhat's the likely cause of this? The increased flow? Some other issue?\n\nOther settings are mostly the Ultimaker Cura defaults, but I've also turned combing and Z-hop on (combing, especially, to combat stringing).\n\nPrint Settings:\n\n\nLulzbot Taz Workhorse using Cura\nPolylite PLA 2.85 mm\nPrint temperature: 215 °C (roughly the middle of the range, and where previous calibrations put me)\nBed temperature: 60 °C\nRetraction: 2.5 mm at 25 mm/sec\nCombing \"\"on\"\"\nZ-Hop When Retracted \"\"on\"\" @ 1 mm\nFan Speed: I've tried 60 % (default) and 100 %\nPrint Speed: 40 mm/s\nFlow: 105 %\n\n\",0scar,\"No, the print does not fail on over-extrusion, it fails by curled up parts of the print as of a filament heating/print part cooling issue.\n\nIf the curled up part has to be completely attached to the print bed (which is not the case after release of more information, but could be informative for others), your problem could be bed adhesion. If the original part does not (as has become clear in this case), so it is in fact an \"\"overhang\"\" you are printing, this could be a print cooling issue. Furthermore, in general your printing temperature appears to be too high, you could try lowering print temperature to 200 °C (which should work fine for 2.85 mm for not too high printing speeds), and lowering print speed and or increase print part cooling percentage (or print a more effective print cooling duct).\n\nFurthermore, the picture of the articulated turtle appears to show that the left side is lower, as in the bed is not properly levelled or dented (but with glass the latter is virtually impossible as glass is flat as of the nature of the production process).\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10845,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Fomite,2.1782824847157594,3.3819507842569205,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Is this articulated Turtle print failing because of over extrusion on a Taz Workhorse?,\"I've been working on calibrating my Taz Workhorse, and was dealing with some under-extrusion issues, despite checking the e-steps on the extruder and relatively modest retraction settings (2.5 mm at 25 mm/second).\n\nLulzbot tech support suggested I boost my flow to 105 % to account for this, and the little Lulzbot gear that resulted was decent (note this picture is after some minor string removal).\n\n\n\nI tried moving on to a articulated Turtle, and there's a consistent failure at 17 %, where you can hear the nozzle collide with a part and knock it off the print bed, followed by the usual mayhem.\n\n\n\nFrom looking at the parts, it looks like all the small joints in the piece have a lot of excess material in them, causing an upward arc, and eventually getting high enough that they're well over the height of the next layer. That's where the collision occurs, presumably.\n\n\n\n\nWhat's the likely cause of this? The increased flow? Some other issue?\n\nOther settings are mostly the Ultimaker Cura defaults, but I've also turned combing and Z-hop on (combing, especially, to combat stringing).\n\nPrint Settings:\n\n\nLulzbot Taz Workhorse using Cura\nPolylite PLA 2.85 mm\nPrint temperature: 215 °C (roughly the middle of the range, and where previous calibrations put me)\nBed temperature: 60 °C\nRetraction: 2.5 mm at 25 mm/sec\nCombing \"\"on\"\"\nZ-Hop When Retracted \"\"on\"\" @ 1 mm\nFan Speed: I've tried 60 % (default) and 100 %\nPrint Speed: 40 mm/s\nFlow: 105 %\n\n\",R..,\"It looks to me like you have corner curling on overhangs, which can be contributed to by a mix of:\n\n\noverextrusion (poor dimensional accuracy of filament or wrong filament diameter setting)\nuneven extrusion (due to changes in the print head motion faster than the flow response to changes in the extruder)\nuneven cooling (especially due to proximity of one side to heated bed)\ntoo little cooling\n\n\nand possibly other factors. I would first try lowering the bed temperature. Technically you can print PLA on an unheated bed, but adhesion may be too poor. Dropping to 45°C (my preference now) should not hurt adhesion much and might help; it partly solved my corner-curling problems.\n\nBoth uneven extrusion and insufficient cooling can be solved solved by printing slower, but that's no fun. It works for uneven extrusion because, even under constraints on acceleration/jerk, print head can change direction almost instantaneously at low speeds, yielding near-uniform absolute velocity.\n\nUneven extrusion can also be solved by cranking up the limits on acceleration and jerk. This is a tradeoff because it might get you more vibration/ringing, and beyond the physical limits of your printer it may even start skipping steps and shifting layers (failed prints), but up to that point I think it's a worthwhile tradeoff. Effects from uneven extrusion are some of the worst, in my opinion, print quality/print failure issues, and worth other minor blemishes to fix them if needed.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10847,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Novalium Company,0.0,3.3416816473626416,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.6229190288168605,Can I order a 3D print of a 1 ml transparent container?,\"I'm trying to make a water insulated 1 cm3 (1 ml) transparent container and I bought some plexiglass, I cut and glued some pieces together but it looks really crappy and barely holds the water in. I was wondering, is there a transparent material (similar to plexiglass) that can order to 3D print the container out of it? Also, if 3D printing is not the best option, where can I order around a 100 pieces of 1 cm3 transparent water insulating containers with caps?\n\",Dan Hulme,\"Yes. You'll probably want to use SLA or Polyjet printers with transparent resin. For example, here's Shapeways' page on transparent SLA and their page on Polyjet (which says you need to phone them for transparent Polyjet parts as their online order system can't handle it).\n\nFDM printing with transparent materials doesn't usually result in parts that look like transparent injection-moulded parts, because the lines of material laid down by the printer are visible. There are some techniques to make this better, but a printing bureau is less likely to offer this kind of special handling.\n\nIn any case, you should discuss your requirements in more detail with suppliers, and they'll be able to advise whether they offer any manufacturing processes that meet your needs. In particular, if you need your containers to be food-safe, you should mention that at the start, as it'll rule out a lot of possible suppliers, machines, and materials.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n10847,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Novalium Company,0.0,3.3416816473626416,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.3655567426522146,1.6229190288168605,Can I order a 3D print of a 1 ml transparent container?,\"I'm trying to make a water insulated 1 cm3 (1 ml) transparent container and I bought some plexiglass, I cut and glued some pieces together but it looks really crappy and barely holds the water in. I was wondering, is there a transparent material (similar to plexiglass) that can order to 3D print the container out of it? Also, if 3D printing is not the best option, where can I order around a 100 pieces of 1 cm3 transparent water insulating containers with caps?\n\",Joel Coehoorn,\"3D printing services can do this, but you'll likely have better results at lower cost through an injection molding service. You probably won't even need to go through the internet; businesses doing this are common enough you can probably put a search in Google for \"\"Injection Molding\"\" along with your city or community and have a number or local choices, where you can go visit them in person to talk face to face about what you need.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10853,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,justin cress,1.726248027126092,2.8020788675182238,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Baud rate for Ender 3 on Repetier Host (Debian),\"Trying to set up Repetier host for Ender 3 on Debian.\n\nThe /dev/ttyUSBx is found via dmesg, this value goes in config -> printer settings -> port.\n\nPrinter connects fine, but commands do not send. Status reads \n\nxx commands waiting.\n\n\nI have tried all the various baud rate settings <= 250k to no avail. \n\nIs there something else I should be trying, or what is the correct baud rate to set?\n\ndmesg:\n\n[2828465.418249] usb 1-13: USB disconnect, device number 77\n[2828465.418480] ftdi_sio ttyUSB0: FTDI USB Serial Device converter now disconnected from ttyUSB0\n[2828465.418492] ftdi_sio 1-13:1.0: device disconnected\n[2828469.171168] usb 1-13: new full-speed USB device number 82 using xhci_hcd\n[2828469.329014] usb 1-13: New USB device found, idVendor=0403, idProduct=6001, bcdDevice= 6.00\n[2828469.329017] usb 1-13: New USB device strings: Mfr=1, Product=2, SerialNumber=3\n[2828469.329018] usb 1-13: Product: FT232R USB UART\n[2828469.329020] usb 1-13: Manufacturer: FTDI\n[2828469.329021] usb 1-13: SerialNumber: A107MDUQ\n[2828469.332455] ftdi_sio 1-13:1.0: FTDI USB Serial Device converter detected\n[2828469.332485] usb 1-13: Detected FT232RL\n[2828469.332756] usb 1-13: FTDI USB Serial Device converter now attached to ttyUSB0\n\n\nlsusb:\n\nBus 004 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0003 Linux Foundation 3.0 root hub\nBus 003 Device 003: ID 0a5c:21e8 Broadcom Corp. BCM20702A0 Bluetooth 4.0\nBus 003 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub\nBus 002 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0003 Linux Foundation 3.0 root hub\nBus 001 Device 081: ID 18d1:4ee1 Google Inc. Nexus Device (MTP)\nBus 001 Device 002: ID 1b1c:1b45 Corsair \nBus 001 Device 046: ID 1b1c:1b50 Corsair \nBus 001 Device 049: ID 14cd:1212 Super Top microSD card reader (SY-T18)\nBus 001 Device 082: ID 0403:6001 Future Technology Devices International, Ltd FT232 Serial (UART) IC\nBus 001 Device 060: ID 1908:0226 GEMBIRD \nBus 001 Device 059: ID 046d:c52b Logitech, Inc. Unifying Receiver\nBus 001 Device 058: ID 05e3:0610 Genesys Logic, Inc. 4-port hub\nBus 001 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub\n\n\nusb-devices:\n\nT: Bus=01 Lev=01 Prnt=01 Port=12 Cnt=02 Dev#= 82 Spd=12 MxCh= 0\nD: Ver= 2.00 Cls=00(>ifc ) Sub=00 Prot=00 MxPS= 8 #Cfgs= 1\nP: Vendor=0403 ProdID=6001 Rev=06.00\nS: Manufacturer=FTDI\nS: Product=FT232R USB UART\nS: SerialNumber=A107MDUQ\nC: #Ifs= 1 Cfg#= 1 Atr=a0 MxPwr=90mA\nI: If#=0x0 Alt= 0 #EPs= 2 Cls=ff(vend.) Sub=ff Prot=ff Driver=ftdi_sio\n\n\",Greenonline,\"Your firmware configuration may vary (probably worth checking what you have set), but from The Ender 3 configuration is set to 115200 baud rate #12174, the standard baud rate seems to be 115200.\n\n\n I think the default Ender 3 configuration is aligned to the Ender3 official confg, which has 115200 so...\n\n\nAh, but this is Marlin, and you're using Repetier. Hmmm, maybe ignore that then.\n\nAccording to Recommended baud rate?:\n\n\n Normally 115200 or 250000 baud should work find and usb->serial latency is the bottleneck.\n\n\nApart from that I don't know. Sorry. I might delete this answer, if it doesn't help.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n10858,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Zeepblok,1.726248027126092,2.835469776828434,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,first layer tearing,\"I have an Anet A8 and have a problem with my first layer. I printed nice prints but starting today the first layer is tearing in the middle:\n\n\n\n\n\nAny idea how to fix this?\n\",R..,\"The great pics really help with the answerability of this question. From how catastrophic the failure is, and how it's clearly independent of any specialty needs for the particular print such as tiny bed-adhesion contacts, sharp overhangs, bridges, etc. this is definitely not a problem with temperature. Different people recommend different temperatures for PLA, but I find that 210°C works well for me, and if you go much lower you'll hit problems getting the needed extrusion rate for anything but slow print speeds.\n\nI've seen nearly this exact phenomenon before, so I knew it was probably a matter of the bed being too high, blocking extrusion of the first layer and forcing what little material can escape out to the sides of the nozzle, then tearing into it when the next adjacent line is laid out.\n\nIf I didn't know that, though, I'd still start looking for a source of the problem that's related to extrusion rate. Something was clearly wrong with getting the right amount of material in the right space, which indicates to me that there's either too much material (overextrusion/wrong filament diameter selected) or too little space (bed to high).\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n10860,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CouscousKingpin,1.0891412423578797,3.410670154036563,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Creality CR-10 extruder clicking and/or nozzle clogging,\"So I am fairly competent with 3D printing, but this problem has got me stumped. I use a Creality CR-10 and I hadn't printed anything off for quite a while (maybe 5 or 6 months?) and I just recently starting printing again. I got a roll of somewhat cheap, but highly reviewed, filament that I have had for around a year that had just been sitting in a cupboard and went through the process of levelling and setup before starting a print. \n\nI started to print a model and left it, expecting it to work as it usually does, but came back later and it had failed halfway; it stopped clean with no spaghetti or continuous extrusion. I started the print again and watched it for a few layers to make sure everything was working fine, and found that it printed the first layer off perfectly fine, but as soon as it started the second layer the extruder gear starting making a clicking noise like it was slipping and the filament wasn't being extruded any further.\n\nI thought this could be because the extruder gear was worn, as it is only brass, and the teeth weren't biting the filament, so I bought a steel one and replaced it; but it's still clicking. I then thought it could be because the nozzle was getting clogged, so I took off the hotend and cleaned it thoroughly but that didn't fix the problem; even if this was the case, it wouldn't make sense that it is regularly completing the first layer before getting 'clogged'. I also tried printing at hotter and cooler temperatures, with and without the heated bed, and printing at slower speeds, but all of these attempts fail to fix the problem.\n\nI did have a brief thought that it COULD be a problem with the model or gcode, as I did print of a spacer for the spring in the feeder which printed off without any clicks, and I also printed off a smaller version of my model (33% scale) which made the clicking noise intermittently and was affecting the filament but printed off fine in the end after I left it. \n\nMy final thought is that it could be the filament, as it isn't exactly new or expensive and was left for over 6 months, but before I buy a better roll I want to know if this is a viable reason for the clicking and slipping in the extruder. If anyone could help me out of give me any solutions I would be incredibly grateful. Thanks.\n\nThese are all my current settings in Slic3r:\n\n\n\",CouscousKingpin,\"Turns out the filament was the problem, I tried printing a model with a high quality sample PLA filament I had and it printed perfectly; one of the cleanest prints I've had. Never skimp on filament.\n\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n10937,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CouscousKingpin,1.0891412423578797,2.634955868424173,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Problems with under extrusion and clogs on CR-10,\"I've asked a question before on the extruder gear clicking on my CR-10, but I'm certain its because of the nozzle getting clogged for some reason. I'm using a standard 0.4 mm nozzle with white PLA and randomly during the print the extruder gear starts clicking on the fast parts and then under extrudes the rest of the print, eventually the hobbed gear digs away at the filament and doesn't grip anymore. Why would the nozzle keep getting clogged? Could it be because the filament isn't high enough quality and is leaving particles in the nozzle? \n\n\n\nAdditionally, when I performed a cold pull after breaking up the blockage on the inside, the filament came out like a thin film even though it was purging fine before I cooled it down. Why?\n\n\n\n\n190 °C nozzle temperature (tried printing at 210 °C and the filament burned)\n50 °C bed temperature\n60 mm/s speed, outline 50 % - first layer being 30 mm/s\n0.2 mm layer height\n\n\nThis starting happening after I returned to printing after a 6 month break, with the filament being stored in a cool and dry cupboard for around a year (the filament was on the cheaper side, but still highly recommended by SUNLU)\n\",CouscousKingpin,\"Turns out the filament was the problem, I tried printing a model with a high quality sample PLA filament I had and it printed perfectly; one of the cleanest prints I've had. Never skimp on filament.\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10937,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CouscousKingpin,1.0891412423578797,2.634955868424173,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,Problems with under extrusion and clogs on CR-10,\"I've asked a question before on the extruder gear clicking on my CR-10, but I'm certain its because of the nozzle getting clogged for some reason. I'm using a standard 0.4 mm nozzle with white PLA and randomly during the print the extruder gear starts clicking on the fast parts and then under extrudes the rest of the print, eventually the hobbed gear digs away at the filament and doesn't grip anymore. Why would the nozzle keep getting clogged? Could it be because the filament isn't high enough quality and is leaving particles in the nozzle? \n\n\n\nAdditionally, when I performed a cold pull after breaking up the blockage on the inside, the filament came out like a thin film even though it was purging fine before I cooled it down. Why?\n\n\n\n\n190 °C nozzle temperature (tried printing at 210 °C and the filament burned)\n50 °C bed temperature\n60 mm/s speed, outline 50 % - first layer being 30 mm/s\n0.2 mm layer height\n\n\nThis starting happening after I returned to printing after a 6 month break, with the filament being stored in a cool and dry cupboard for around a year (the filament was on the cheaper side, but still highly recommended by SUNLU)\n\",Artonn,\"White PLA is usually some of the worst stuff to print with, generally avoid it. I would say. I myself are having a lot of problems with it as well.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10861,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Samuel,0.0,2.3045027946466967,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Anet A8 stock replacement fuse between motherboard and PSU,\"My inline fuse burned and I don't know how many ampere the new fuse should have.\n\",Nach0z,\"Couple things to note.\nFirst one is that as @Paulster2 mentioned, the fuse itself should have its rating printed on it. \n\nSecond one is that if your fuse blew, there's a reason for that, and you really should try to figure out what that reason is before you start putting fuses back in. The Anet A8 isn't exactly what I'd call a high-quality kit, so there's a chance you've got a blown FET or something somewhere that has shorted closed and is just drawing power nonstop. You should start by getting a multimeter and checking the continuity of the power traces for your hotend and bed, without power in the system. You can do some basic safety checks that way.\n\nOnce you've gotten that done, if you're referring to a 12 V feed line, that should be somewhere in the ballpark of 20 A fuse. If it's a fuse on the mains power, it'll be like 1 A or 2 A depending on whether you're on 240 V or 120 V mains (respectively). \n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10863,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mr.UNOwen,1.0891412423578797,2.8977288498929825,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How sensitive are all-metal print heads?,\"So my goal was to print in a variety of materials with my CR10, but all attempts up to now have failed. I've tried a variety of all-metal hot-ends (except Micro Swiss) with no success. For those with a similar Creality printer that successfully print with all metal ends, how sensitive are they? Do they only print with high temp materials? Is a head too close to the bed enough to jam it? Is a 5 mm retraction prone to jam it? Do I need to stick to a premium brand when it comes to all metal hot ends?\n\",0scar,\"Full definite answers on your questions are hard be given, there are a few parameters affecting the clogging of all-metal hotends.\n\nAll-metal hotends are considered so-called \"\"upgrades\"\" for printers while in fact they usually cause more problems. For high temperature filaments, like PC and some Nylons, etc. (printing temperature above 250 °C) you require a hotend that can withstand higher temperatures for prolonged use of the hotend. The problem is that heat creep (heat climbing up the throat/heat break) causes low temperature melting filaments to become prematurely soft and cause problems when retracted.\n\nThis requires the printer operator to provide enough cooling air to the coldend of the hotend assembly (usually the part where the cooling fins are) to dissipate heat creeping up the heat break and carefully tune printing temperature and retraction length.\n\nNote that Ultimaker Cura uses quite large retraction values (default 6.5 mm), which work perfectly for the UM3E. This could be closely related to the compression effect of the filament in the Bowden tube. The all-metal hotends from the UM3 are perfectly capable of printing low temperature filaments, so if dialed in correctly, such hotends are not only to be used for high temperature filaments.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10893,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mr.UNOwen,1.726248027126092,2.663475740203885,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,What's the best way to pull out fillament from an all metal print head,\"Since retractions above 4 mm can cause jams due to plastic sticking to the cold half of the metal print head, what's the best way to avoid jams when swapping filaments? \n\nCool down and yank out, rapid pull out while melted, pull out at partial heat but not completely melted, or something else?\n\",craftxbox,\"Cold/Luke-Warm pulling can cause damage and wear to the hot end, and should only be used in cases where you suspect there's a jam in the nozzle.\n\nPulling the filament out at a few degrees above its normal printing temperature and pulling quickly is what I use, and what I've seen other's also say, and the procedure most machines use.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n10906,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mr.UNOwen,3.0576060275493275,4.328251403802308,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.265283966335819,Why don't 3D printer heads use ceramic inner walls?,\"Why don't 3D printer heads use ceramic inner walls? PTFE tubes melt with high enough temperatures and all metal ends risk jamming as heat makes its way up the head.\n\",Greenonline,\"It can be done cheaply, as two different users have proven, see \n\n\nA practical 10 Cents Ceramic tube hotend, and;\nHotend with ceramic parts. \n\n\nHowever, as Paulster2 states in his answer, there are some technical issues with using it, which make it rather problematic. Apparently, in comparison with PTFE, the thermal conductivity of the ceramic in spark plugs is too high, to use (according to nophead - a user on the reprap forums), and there are friction/clogging issues, unless the inner diameter is very well polished.\n\n\n\nSynopsis of reference\n\nThe RepRap user, hp_, encountered the issues above when attempting a design - from Ceramic Hotend - Part 1\n\n\n Research\n \n As far as I know there are no ceramic hotends out there, I know\n nophead has tried some spark-plugs for nozzle holders but found them\n not suitable(thermal conductivity is pretty high). I wanted to give it\n a go, confident enough (I hoped), that it would work :)\n \n So in my case, a hotend exists out of 2 main parts, a nozzle holder\n and a nozzle.\n \n \n The nozzle is the easy part it would stay brass.\n The nozzle holder is the interesting part, here is what I've come-up with\n \n \n total length should be in the range of 35-40mm, see my first sketch\n below:\n \n \n \n here are many types of ceramic out there, ie. 95% AI2O3, 99% AI2O3,\n Zirconia (see material properties sheet Link)\n \n 95% AI2O3 is easy to buy but after a few tests the conclusion was its\n to brittle for my taste, second material to try is Zirconia. \n \n I've found a few Chinese ceramic manufactures. Only draw back I had to\n order 10 pieces for the first batch.. on something that has never been\n tested, well I'd give it a shot.... and ordered the parts.\n\n\nbut the clogging issue mentioned above was encountered:\n\n\n ...after the first layer, it just stopped extruding.. ugh!!! what could\n be wrong????\n \n Possible root causes\n - Friction coefficient? Meaning after awhile the friction between PLA and the Ceramic became so high it would just jam the nozzle holder.\n \n \n Stickiness? Could it be that after awhile PLA would just stick to the Ceramic and would jam because of this?\n PLA thermal expansion( nozzle holder barrel is to small?) so the inner diameter of this nozzle holder is 3.2mm, could it be that the\n 3.0mm filament would expand so much because of the heat, that it would start to jam the nozzle holder?\n Connection between nozzle and nozzle holder is insufficient cause the Jam??\n \n\n\nThe user was forced to return to using PTFE.\n\nFrom Ceramic hotend part-2, after some rework done by the Chinese manufacturer, the new hotends worked correctly:\n\n\n Awhile ago i stared working on the ceramic hotend and found out the\n first version wouldn't work for 3.0mm fillament,\n \n after some discussion with my chinese counterpart :) i got a new\n version of the ceramic piece.\n \n They polished the inside very deep and precise. and i gave it another\n go.\n\n\nand \n\n\n some more tinkering with the hotend and a new nozzle design, with a smaller Inner diameter, and its longer \n\n\nApart from that the details are a little sparse.\n\n\n\nAdditional information\n\nFrom J-head with ceramic body instead of PEEK, specifically this post:\n\n\n \n Just to be clear, it's Ceramic Zirconium.\n \n My concern was that Zirconium becomes brittle when it is exposed to heat for consecutive long periods of time. I would stay with PEEK.\n \n \n MgO or Yttria stabilized grades of Zirconium are very stable.\n \n Pure ZrO2 is known to crack, so additives are used to stabilize it.\n \n Key Properties of Zirconium Oxide\n \n \n Use temperatures up to 2400°C\n High density\n Low thermal conductivity (20% that of alumina)\n Chemical inertness\n Resistance to molten metals\n Ionic electrical conduction\n Wear resistance\n High fracture toughness\n High hardness\n \n \n Typical Uses of ZrO2\n \n \n Precision ball valve balls and seats\n High density ball and pebble mill grinding media\n Rollers and guides for metal tube forming\n Thread and wire guides\n Hot metal extrusion dies\n Deep well down-hole valves and seats -Powder compacting dies\n Marine pump seals and shaft guides\n Oxygen sensors\n High temperature induction furnace susceptors\n Fuel cell membranes\n Electric furnace heaters over 2000°C in oxidizing atmospheres\n \n \n Zirconium oxide\n \n Zirconium oxide is used due to its polymorphism. It exists in three\n phases: monoclinic, tetragonal, and cubic. Cooling to the monoclinic\n phase after sintering causes a large volume change, which often causes\n stress fractures in pure zirconia. Additives such as magnesium,\n calcium and yttrium are utilized in the manufacture of the knife\n material to stabilize the high-temperature phases and minimize this\n volume change. The highest strength and toughness is produced by the\n addition of 3 mol% yttrium oxide yielding partially stabilized\n zirconia. This material consists of a mixture of tetragonal and cubic\n phases with a bending strength of nearly 1200 MPa. Small cracks allow\n phase transformations to occur, which essentially close the cracks and\n prevent catastrophic failure, resulting in a relatively tough ceramic\n material, sometimes known as TTZ (transformation toughened zirconia). \n \n Zirconium dioxide is one of the most studied ceramic materials. Pure\n ZrO2 has a monoclinic crystal structure at room temperature and\n transitions to tetragonal and cubic at increasing temperatures. The\n volume expansion caused by the cubic to tetragonal to monoclinic\n transformation induces very large stresses, and will cause pure ZrO2\n to crack upon cooling from high temperatures. Several different oxides\n are added to zirconia to stabilize the tetragonal and/or cubic phases:\n magnesium oxide (MgO), yttrium oxide, (Y2O3), calcium oxide (CaO), and\n cerium(III) oxide (Ce2O3), amongst others.\n \n In the late 1980s, ceramic engineers learned to stabilize the\n tetragonal form at room temperature by adding small amounts (3–8\n mass%) of calcium and later yttrium or cerium. Although stabilized at\n room temperature, the tetragonal form is “metastable,” meaning that\n trapped energy exists within the material to drive it back to the\n monoclinic state. The highly localized stress ahead of a propagating\n crack is sufficient to trigger grains of ceramic to transform in the\n vicinity of that crack tip. In this case, the 4.4% volume increase\n becomes beneficial, essentially squeezing the crack closed (i.e.,\n transformation decreases the local stress intensity).\n\n\nand the following post\n\n\n Thermal conductivity:\n \n \n Diamond thermal conductivity: 1000 W/(m·K).\n Copper thermal conductivity: 385 to 401 W/(m·K).\n Aluminum: 205 W/(m·K).\n Stainless steel 16 W/(m·K).\n Granite: 1.7 to 4 W/(m·K).\n Zirconia has a typical thermal conductivity of 1.7 to 2.2 W/(m·K).\n Porcelain has a typical thermal conductivity of 1.5 to 5 W/(m·K).\n Glass thermal conductivity: 1.05 W/(m·K).\n \n\n\nRulon\n\nAs an aside, again from J-head with ceramic body instead of PEEK, specifically this post:\n\n\n Rulon was one material we used. I think it is a glass filled ptfe. The mechanical strength is far better than solid ptfe and it is easy to machine. There are many grades but Rulon AR for example will withstand 288 deg C.\n\n\nbut there are inconsistencies in quality\n\n\n Rulon i looked at a while ago, there are plenty of options with it, however the cost of some of these materials can be incredibly high, and in some cases availability is a serious problem, and the difference country to country is borderline criminal in some cases\n\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n10906,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mr.UNOwen,3.0576060275493275,4.328251403802308,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.265283966335819,Why don't 3D printer heads use ceramic inner walls?,\"Why don't 3D printer heads use ceramic inner walls? PTFE tubes melt with high enough temperatures and all metal ends risk jamming as heat makes its way up the head.\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"Because PTFE doesn't transmit heat very well? The whole idea when using a PTFE tube (and this is just my understanding ... which could be wrong), is for the tubing not to transmit heat, therefore allowing the filament to pass through it without melting or at the very least, collecting a lot of heat along the way (which helps prevent jams). PTFE does a pretty good job of standing up to heat while accomplishing the task at hand. Ceramic does an excellent job of standing up to heat. The problem is, it will pass the heat along to the filament, most likely melting it, thus causing it to deform and jam before it gets to the hot end. This would then become a maintenance nightmare.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n10871,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Paweł Lis,2.528907649931287,2.729972460763979,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,\"Where to get smartphone shapes from, to create a case all by myself?\",\"I'm looking for some kind of collection of shapes of smartphones, so I can design a case that will fit certain models perfectly.\nSTL, or any other kind of 3d file.\n\nLots of companies produce cases for smartphones, do they have the shapes straight from the manufacturer? Do they reverse engineer every model?\n\nI'm asking here because I couldn't find a stack exchange site that would be a better fit for this kind of question.\n\",R..,\"I'm not aware of a source for STL files or engineering diagrams, but you can do the measurements yourself fairly easily. I did this to make credit-card-slot cases for my Moto G4 and the fit turned out very good.\n\nStart with a digital caliper and measure the maximum length, width, and depth of the phone, ignoring rounded corners. Next, trace the phone on a piece of paper and use a straightedge to extend the flat parts of the sides to a bounding rectangle, and measure how far from the corner the curved part extends in each direction before meeting the flat part. Finally, if the sides of the phone are rounded too, estimate how thick the phone would be if you extended the curved edge to a full semicircle.\n\nAt this point, you can approximate the shape of the phone as the convex hull of 4 spheres scaled appropriately in the x, y, and z directions, if the sides are curved, or the convex hull of 4 cylinders scaled in just the x and y directions, if the sides are flat. In the former (spheres) case, the approximation will be thicker than the phone, and you have to slice off the top and bottom to match the arc segment that's actually present on the sides of the phone. There are ways to do this exactly but I found it doesn't need to be precise and you can just eyeball it.\n\nIn order to make a usable case, you'll also need to measure the distances of camera lens, buttons you want to expose, etc. from reference points. This is straightforward with a caliper.\n\nHere's my result, following this procedure:\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10874,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hongseok Yoon,0.0,2.634955868424173,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Problem with first and last layers,\"I bought Ender-5 and if I print sample model in bundle SD, it’s just perfect.\n\n\n\nBut when I tested basic cube with raft, its base and top is just ugly. Even thought its 4 sides are perfect.\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nUltimaker Cura 4.2.1\nBed temperature 45 °C\nExtruder temperature 200 °C\n\n\nWhich setting(s) should I check futher?\n\",craftxbox,\"You may want to ensure that your filament diameter is correctly set in your printer's CURA profile, and that your hot end is at the correct temperature for the material you are using. Additionally, you should not need a raft to print the cube, and should be able to do without a raft or brim.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n10890,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,spack2007,1.726248027126092,3.6626933444091816,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Configuration of the Anet A6 full graphic LCD 12864 on an Anet A8,\"I finished fixing my Anet A8 about the 3DTouch sensor working with the LCD2004 stock display, I am installing the full graphic display LCD 12864 (for Anet A6) but when I compile Marlin 1.1.9 the following error appears:\n\n\nArduino: 1.8.9 (Windows 7), Sheet: 'Anet V1.0 (Optiboot)'\n\nc: / program files (x86) / arduino / hardware / tools / avr / bin /../ lib / gcc / avr / 5.4.0 /../../../../ avr / bin / ld. exe: C: Users Claudio AppData Local Temp aruino_build_739999 / Marlin - this_feature_good.ino.elf section `.text 'will not fit in region` text'\n\nc: / program files (x86) / arduino / hardware / tools / avr / bin /../ lib / gcc / avr / 5.4.0 /../../../../ avr / bin / ld. exe: region `text 'overflowed by 1866 bytes\n\ncollect2.exe: error: ld returned 1 exit status\n\n\nThis happened after activating the Anet A6 display and deactivating the LCD2004.\n\nObviously given the low memory I performed the flash bootloader using ANET OPTIBOOT and reloaded the firmware.\nIf I deactivate the whole part of the 3DTouch, then the 12864 LCD display works properly, now I have 130 kbit (about 16 kB) memory left.\n\nArduino warns me if I do not have enough memory. In this case, instead of those errors I do not know what they are for. Maybe using an older Marlin version would help?\n\",0scar,\"To downsize the firmware you can manually disable a lot of less useful stuff. E.g. why have 2 pre-heating profiles for PLA and ABS while you can set hotend and heated bed manually. \n\nOne of the largest memory savers is disabling arc support, G2/G3 commands aren't used by most slicer programs. From Configuration_adv.h can be found that you can save more than 3000 bytes:\n\n\n//\n// G2/G3 Arc Support\n//\n#define ARC_SUPPORT // Disable this feature to save ~3226 bytes\n\n\nYou can probably find more features to disable to save memory, e.g. look into question \"\"What can be removed from Marlin 1.1.9 to fit on 128K controller? I'm currently 318 bytes over\"\", quoting:\n\n\n//#define SHOW_BOOTSCREEN // enabled\n//#define SHOW_CUSTOM_BOOTSCREEN // enabled\n//#define CUSTOM_STATUS_SCREEN_IMAGE // enabled\n//#define LCD_INFO_MENU // enabled, shows useless 'about printer' menu\n//#define STATUS_MESSAGE_SCROLLING // enabled, saves some flash space\n//#define DOGM_SD_PERCENT // disabled, show print % bar graph\n//#define NO_WORKSPACE_OFFSETS // Disables M206 and M428\n//#define ARC_SUPPORT // enabled, used for CNC toolpaths\n#define NO_VOLUMETRICS // disabled, not used without width sensor?\n//#define SCROLL_LONG_FILENAMES\n#define SLIM_LCD_MENUS // Disable 'extraneous' menu items\n//#define SPEAKER // Disable beeper if you don't want it.\n//#define LEVEL_BED_CORNERS\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10910,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,scott9951,0.0,2.6908545064521765,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Anet A6 assembly problem - remaining power cables don't match instructions,\"I've just built my son's A6 and have connected all cables apart from the last power cables. The mainboard says hotbed line and extruder line but the cable says heatbed.\n\nThe cables are two red which are crimped together and two black crimped together.\n\nAll of the videos online show a different mainboard and connections.\nThere are more connections than cables because the wires are crimped.\n\nI can't get my head around which wires go where, any ideas?\n\",Greenonline,\"The manual appears to be available here, Installation Instruction_Anet A6 3D Printer - Elektor\n\nHowever, according to this comment from Hard copy of the build guide?, there is a mistake in the PDF of the manual, with respect to the heatbed, and as such, it is better to follow the videos:\n\n\n I find it is better to use the 3 videos:\n \n \n 3D Printer Instruction--Anet 3D Printer A6 Assembly Video 1\n 3D Printer Instruction--Anet 3D Printer A6 Assembly Video 2\n Printer Instruction- A6 - Hot Bed Level Adjustment and Print Test\n \n \n Only errors in the videos and i believe the instuction the Hetbed\n fixing plate i have build diffrently , rotated by 180 degrees\n vertical, since it is better for the belt and somewhere in the video\n during fixating of the end-switch and the blower he interchanged the\n screws.\n\n\nHowever, looking at the manual, if it is to be believed, then be aware that as well as one connection for the extruder motor, there are two connectors each for both the extruder and the hotbed heaters:\n\n\nOne for the separate heating elements, of the extruder and hotbed respectively, and;\nOne for the thermistor sensor (both the extruder and the hotbed have separate thermistors).\n\n\nThis makes five in total for the extruder and the hotbed combined.\n\n\n\nHowever, the power connections for the Extruder motor has four pins (in white at the top), whereas the heating elements for the hotbed and the extruder have two pins and are of a different shape (in green on the left). The sensor connections for both the extruder and the sensor have three pins (in white at the bottom), but it should be easy not to confuse them, so long as you follow the wires to check to which component they go to.\n\n\n\nAdditional points to be aware of\n\nFrom this comment in the same thread:\n\n\n I just built an A6 three weeks ago and with the videos it is really a\n breeze to assemble the unit.\n \n Just pay attention to the heat bed mounting plate as it is installed\n bottoms up in the video. The bar connecting the outer two plates where\n the heat bed is finally mounted should be below the plates, not above\n as in the video.\n \n Also, if you still have time, order some decent toothed belt, Igus\n Drylin RJ4JP-01, and toothwheels for the Y and X belts and replace the\n original pulleys, bearings, and belts before you even assemble the\n unit. I just changed mine last week and it does make a hell of a\n difference - with this little upgrades (cost me less than 30$ for\n everything - at Amazon) you upgrade from an okay printer to a really\n decent machine.\n \n \n The belt: https://www.amazon.com/Anycubic-Meters-Timing-Pulleys-Printer/dp/B0152ZNDLK\n The pulleys: https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Bearing-Timing-3D-printers/dp/B0188HW4Z0\n The bearings: https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Solid-Polymer-LM8UU-Bearing/dp/B06XPRCMJS\n (actually, you need 8 pieces - not seven as in the images - 4 for the\n Y-axis and 4 for the X-axis)\n \n \n The above are not the actual articles I've bought because I am from\n Europe where Amazon sells in different quantities.\n \n If you want to go on the safe side, grab a second power supply and two\n MOSFET boards to remove the high current from the mainboard:\n \n \n PSU: https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG\n (just as an example)\n MOSFET: https://www.amazon.com/Wangdd22-Printer-Expansion-Heatbed-Current/dp/B01MY50JL3\n Power socket and switch: https://www.amazon.com/URBEST-Module-Switch-Certification-Socket/dp/B00ME5YAPK\n \n \n Last recommendation: get some 3mm borosilicate glass to lay (clip)\n over the heatbed. This will make the prints stick better and also\n provide a perfectly flat surface for the builds (still, you'll need to\n do the levelling)\n \n Glass:\n https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Printer-Tempered-Borosilicate-2132003mm/dp/B00QQ5Q3BI\n \n When assembling the heatbed mount, pay lots of attention to the 16\n screws. Tighten them one by one diagonally and move the bed around. If\n the bed feels stuck, loosen the last screws and shift the mounts\n around a bit. The lighter this mount moves, the better your prints\n will be.\n \n One thing that you must be aware: This printer is a great little unit,\n but it needs love, dedication and plenty upgrades. Out of the box it\n works okay, but with the upgrades it becomes a really good unit.\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10910,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,scott9951,0.0,2.6908545064521765,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Anet A6 assembly problem - remaining power cables don't match instructions,\"I've just built my son's A6 and have connected all cables apart from the last power cables. The mainboard says hotbed line and extruder line but the cable says heatbed.\n\nThe cables are two red which are crimped together and two black crimped together.\n\nAll of the videos online show a different mainboard and connections.\nThere are more connections than cables because the wires are crimped.\n\nI can't get my head around which wires go where, any ideas?\n\",scott9951,\"Thanx for the help, got it running now.\nThe board in the pic is the older version, my problem was the wires for the extruder had been cut really short for some reason and not labled.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10934,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Irene,2.1782824847157594,2.846247604045449,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"How to change \"\"home\"\" settings on Ender 3\",\"I have just got an Ender 3, I got a friend to build it for me, as my hands are not great. Which means I don't know what bit does what.\n\nMy problem is when I click on home setting, my nozzle is in front of my base plate and below it.\n\nI have watched every video I can find about the set up, but they all assume that bit is ok. I have changed the axis setting to put it on it but it doesn't save the settings and as soon as I hit home its off the base plate again. I don't want to go any further re-printing, so at the moment it's just an ornament.\n\nWhat am I doing wrong?\n\",R..,\"This isn't a matter of settings but physical adjustment (the endstop switches). Having the head home slightly off the bed in the X and/or Y direction is a good thing, because it means the Z homing can't crash into the bed if the bed height is misadjusted. On my Ender 3, the X axis homes slightly into the bed, but the Y homes such that the nozzle tip is in front of the bed. Note that normally you don't try to print at X=0 or Y=0 anyway.\n\nAs for the Z homing, you have to adjust the bed height (\"\"bed leveling\"\") via the 4 wheels under the corners of the bed to bring it to the right height. If you can't get it below the nozzle with the wheels all the way tightened, your Z endstop switch must be installed incorrectly. The Ender 3's Z endstop bracket is supposed to fit against the corner of the aluminum extrusion just below it so that it doesn't need adjustment, but it's possible to mount it incorrectly higher. This is a bad idea because if it loosens it can move. It might also be possible to incorrectly install it lower, in which case it would be misaligned because the machine screws couldn't be tightened down all the way. This is also a bad idea. Make sure it's in the right place.\n\nAs for actual bed height adjustment/leveling, there are lots of good guides to that and I won't try to reproduce/improve on them here. The \"\"sheet of paper\"\" method is very good.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10936,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,rusky,2.1782824847157594,3.032353024813671,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Under extrusion... sometimes,\"You can see small gaps in the print which looks like under extrusion (see image below).\nWhat is the reason for that?\n\nI've tried smaller retracting distances. Temperature looks stable.\n\nPrint settings:\n\n\nPETG from Extruder\n245 °C Printing temperature\n50 mm/s print speed\n25 mm/s wall speed\n30 mm/s retracting speed\n1 mm retraction distance -> stringing...\nPrint cooling fan is enabled\n\n\nSetup:\n\n\nE3D Titan Aero\nDuet Wifi\n1,5 A Motor current for feeder motor\n250 mm/s2 feeder max acceleration \n\n\nSlicer:\n\n\nUltimaker Cura 4.0\n\n\n\n\",R..,\"Here's your problem:\n\n\n \n 1 mm retraction distance -> stringing...\n \n\n\nIf you have stringing, that means that material that was supposed to end up as part of printed lines instead ended up somewhere else, leaving less material (underextrusion) where it was actually wanted. This particular test piece may not exhibit stringing, but it's likely that it occurred interior to the piece, in the infill region. Contrary to widespread(?) opinion, stringing here is not harmless. It's just not visibly ugly. But it still messes up the surface quality, and even more importantly the strength, of your print.\n\nYou don't say if your printer has a bowden extruder or direct drive. If a Bowden, the 1 mm of retraction is virtually useless; a typical Bowden system has more than 1 mm just of compression between the extruder gear and the hotend, meaning that retracting by 1 mm does not pull the filament back out of the hotend at all, and doesn't even relieve all the pressure that's pushing melted material out. I would recommend an absolute minimum of 5 mm for Bowden type extruders, unless your printer firmware has linear advance (Marlin 1.1.9+ or comparable features in other firmware) in which case you might be able to reduce it some. For direct drive, I don't have experience, but 1 mm is still probably too low; 2.5 mm is the believable recommendation I've heard.\n\nIn addition to retraction, you can further reduce material loss to stringing/oozing in the infill region by turning on Ultimaker Cura's \"\"Zig-zaggify infill\"\" option, which helps avoid in generating travel without retraction over unprinted area within the infill zone (see e.g. this issue). Turning slicer setting \"\"combing\"\" to \"\"off\"\" is an even more extreme option here. Of course make sure retraction is really on (not \"\"retract at layer change\"\", which is a separate, mostly useless option) and make sure \"\"retraction minimum travel\"\" is set low (something like 150 % of the nozzle width or less) to prevent retraction from getting skipped on short travel moves.\n\nI also just noticed you wrote:\n\n\n I've tried smaller retracting distances...\n\n\nThis was probably based on erroneous advice. Reducing or eliminating retraction does not mitigate these sorts of problems; it creates them. The only reasons to reduce retraction distance are to fight problems with the extruder gear grinding down the filament after repeated retraction, and problems with jamming the path into the hotend due to pulling molten material back into the cool part where it then solidifies and jams. If you're not having such problems you should not reduce retraction. If you are having such problems, you should try to fix them in other ways that still let you keep the necessary amount of retraction not to have catastrophic print quality problems from material coming out in the wrong places.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n10936,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,rusky,2.1782824847157594,3.032353024813671,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,Under extrusion... sometimes,\"You can see small gaps in the print which looks like under extrusion (see image below).\nWhat is the reason for that?\n\nI've tried smaller retracting distances. Temperature looks stable.\n\nPrint settings:\n\n\nPETG from Extruder\n245 °C Printing temperature\n50 mm/s print speed\n25 mm/s wall speed\n30 mm/s retracting speed\n1 mm retraction distance -> stringing...\nPrint cooling fan is enabled\n\n\nSetup:\n\n\nE3D Titan Aero\nDuet Wifi\n1,5 A Motor current for feeder motor\n250 mm/s2 feeder max acceleration \n\n\nSlicer:\n\n\nUltimaker Cura 4.0\n\n\n\n\",rusky,\"I increased the retracting distance to 1.5mm. Speed was set to 30mm/s\nPrinting temperature is still 245°C\n\nThe screw which is pressing the filament to the drive gear was too tight.\nSo the stepper lost steps.\n\n-> No stringing and no under extrusion anymore. prints are looking good now.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10945,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Artonn,2.1782824847157594,2.877598637377739,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"Printing with White pla, problems while printing a benchy boat\",\"So I am having trouble with this white pla, I am currently printing with a tempature of 225 degrees and going lower worsen the printing, but what I find strange is that it is always the same area that screws up.\n\nI am using a Prusa MK3S, and printing with this fillament: https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/filament/39-white-pla-filament-1kg.html\n\n\n\nEDIT:\n\nNEW INFORMATION, this only happens with my white pla. I have a Silver one, and it prints it perfectly.\n\nSecound white print, see that silver pla is totally fine.\n\n\n\",ON5MF Jurgen,\"Even from the same manufacturer different colors of filament have (slightly) different properties requiring different settings of your slicer.\nBut here it seems you have some underextrusion at this hight. Have you tried again the same file with the same filament and the same settings? It could be a fault in the white filament at that spot that (temporarily) clogged your nozzle.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10951,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Cherndon,1.726248027126092,3.178518415635008,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,0.0,0.0,Uneven layers- Ender 3,\"I got my ender 3 about a month ago, it was working fine. Tried a new brand, overture, this is when I started experiencing problems. First, I was clogging nozzles left and right, then I went back to hatchbox, and my layers are messed up... HELP]1\n\",R..,\"I wonder if this problem is unrelated to your material or printer, and purely a matter of slicer breakage. Have you tried printing gcode files you created before the problem appeared? If you use Cura and upgraded it, you might have hit one of the bugs where it assumes by default you have 2.85 mm filament, even though your printer actually uses 1.75 mm. That will create underextrusion that has the whole printed object coming apart like an unravelling mummy. When I've seen it happen, it looks very similar to your picture.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10951,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Cherndon,1.726248027126092,3.178518415635008,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,0.0,0.0,Uneven layers- Ender 3,\"I got my ender 3 about a month ago, it was working fine. Tried a new brand, overture, this is when I started experiencing problems. First, I was clogging nozzles left and right, then I went back to hatchbox, and my layers are messed up... HELP]1\n\",Tinker,\"Have you replaced your extruder stepper assembly with a metal one? I had a similar issue after a month of printing on my ender 3 because the plastic part had worn through and was causing drag on the filament.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10955,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lisa Sun,2.528907649931287,3.1979807096326267,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,1.6229190288168605,Can mold release agent be used in 3D printing?,\"Do we need mold release agent in 3D printing mold? If it is not used, what effect will it have on the product?\n\",cmm,\"Welcome to the 3D Printing Stack Exchange site.\n\nUsed in Casting\n\nA mold release agent is commonly used when a part is cast. The release agent is placed on the inside of the mold before the liquid object is added. As the object becomes solid, the release agent prevents the object from adhering to the mold. As a result, the objects are easier to pop out of the mold, and in some processes, the mold can be reused.\n\n3D Printing is Different\n\nA mold release agent is used to allow the desired part to be separated from the mold. In FDM (thin plastic extrusions bonding together into objects) 3D printing, the object is surrounded by air, except for the bottom where the object contacts the print bed.\n\nBed Adhesion\n\nFor most materials, getting the bottom of the object to stick firmly enough is the problem faced, rather than making it easy to remove. In many cases, a compound is placed on the top of the bed to help the plastic stick to the bed. It is a \"\"mode adhesion agent\"\" rather than a release agent.\n\nFor some combinations of materials, the bed material and the plastic have a particularly strong adhesion, such that it can be difficult to remove the object without damaging the bed surface. Notably, this occurs with a PEI bed and PETG plastic. In this and similar cases, the mold adhesion agents can be used on the bed. This slightly separates the plastic from the bed material, and we can avoid bed damage.\n\nInternal Adhesion\n\nWith multimaterial printers becoming more common, there are cases where two parts which might touch and stich during printing should be isolated during the printing process. A second (or third) material can be used to isolate the parts. If the isolation material is sufficiently different from the desired objects, it can be removed by a solvent.\n\nThis approach is limited to cases where the objects should be separated by at least one printer thickness of the soluble material.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10955,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Lisa Sun,2.528907649931287,3.1979807096326267,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,1.6229190288168605,Can mold release agent be used in 3D printing?,\"Do we need mold release agent in 3D printing mold? If it is not used, what effect will it have on the product?\n\",cmm,\"It seems I misread your question. \n\n3D Printed Mold\n\nYou were asking about (or the question now states) use of a mold release compound to prevent a molded part from sticking to a 3d print mold.\n\nYes. It is always beneficial for the molded part to not stick to the mold. Easy separation and part removal is important for the life of the mold and for the surface finish of the part.\n\nThere are two molding situations that seem important. \n\nFlexible Mold or Object\n\nIn the first, either the part of the mold is elastic, so the actual sliding of one surface on the other isn't important. Here, a mold release agent would help by preventing the cast object from binding to the mold material.\n\nStiff Mold and Object\n\nThe second case is where both the mold and the object are stiff, and the object must slide out of the mold. Here the layer lines should be considered, since there may, locally, be reverse draft angles where the larger part can not slip past an obstructing filament line. Using a process that doesn't leave filament lines, or using the thinnest possible filament layers, or smoothing the mold internal surfaces, or possibly filling the spaces between the ridges with another material may eliminate the problem. A \"\"mold release agent\"\" would still be used to reduce the attachment of the object to the mold, although one may be able to use ample release agent both to fill the groves in the mold and prevent adhesion.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n10962,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Daniel Bozarth,2.528907649931287,3.776022737890987,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Ender 3 Pro Filament extrusion problems,\"I run quite a few Ender 3 Pro's using the same slicer settings (Simplify3D), and just recently I have noticed a very odd extrusion problem. \n\nI find that at about the same height on several printers the printer under extrudes by quite a margin. After that, it either continues to under extrude for the rest of the print or it will go back to extruding proper amounts of filament with no problem. This destroys the print and makes it both structurally weak and defective. I am wasting quite a bit of PLA trying to fix this problem so any help would be appreciated.\n\nHere is what I have done so far:\n\n\nI first made sure that the hobbed gear is clean.\nI tried extruding the filament with a very hot temp (240C) there were no problems here and the filament extruded fine albeit, it was not on the bed, just extruding into the air to see if the problem was heat. \nI tried the same thing as above but with a low temp (180) this also proved just fine again extruding in the air.\nI calibrated my E steps per mm, those are fine and accurate.\nI tried increasing my flow rate to 118%\nI tried switching to a different nozzle\nI tried switching to a different hobbed gear\nI tried switching the mechanism that pushes the filament up against the hobbed gear\n\n\nThat's about it. Not sure where to go from here so if anyone out there can think of anything I missed, I would love to hear it!\n\nEDIT 1:\n\nAs per @fred_dot_u asked, the elapsed time at the layer of failure is roughly four hours in. I have also attached a picture of one example of this kind of failure below. I would also like to mention that this is happening on several of these printers as I have 18 printers running in one room. Our current theory is that the power draw is simply too high and so the printers are not getting the heat they need, however, the thermistors still register a solid 195C on my printers that are currently running.\n\n\n\nEDIT 2:\nHere is another picture of a different model with the same layer failure problem but at a lower layer height. This model was printed along with 11 other identical models on the same bed, all of which failed at the same height.\n\n\",R..,\"Based on the image and your report that the problem consistently appears at the same part of the print, this is clearly an (either absolute or net) underextrusion problem, but (mostly) localized to particular layers. I say absolute or net because it might be extruding too little total material, or extruding the right amount of material but losing some of it to unwanted extrusion (oozing/stringing) in the wrong places. Either of these could be related to geometry of the layers involved.\n\nOne factor here is probably coasting, which you mentioned in a comment you have enabled. The small amount of coasting probably means it's not a big factor, but coasting always underextrudes. That's fundamentally how it works. You should not need coasting unless you've disabled retraction for some reason; it's a hack that's a poor substitute for part of what linear advance does on printers that support it.\n\nYou also mentioned a 60 mm/s print speed setting. At 0.2 mm layer height and 0.4 mm nozzle diameter, that's 4.8 mm³/s volumetric extrusion rate, which is roughly the limit of what you can expect to achieve with your printer's hotend. If you try to print faster than the hotend can keep up with, the material won't melt sufficiently fast to pass through the nozzle orifice. This will naturally slow it down allowing further melting to take place, but in the mean time the extruder gear will either grind into the filament or (much less likely, I think) the motor will skip steps.\n\nNote that print speed settings control maximum speed, which is why you won't necessarily hit problems from having them too high right away, but only at particular layers. In prints with small details, especially with sharp corners, the majority of the printer's time is spent accelerating and decelerating between speeds far lower than the nominal/max print speed, and if you only reach an excessive max speed momentarily now and then, it might not continue for long enough for the material to cool down, in which case everything just works out.\n\nPart of why I mention this is that, if you're trying to keep print time under control, setting a higher max speed might not even help you. Usually acceleration/jerk is the limiting factor to how fast you can print. Max print speed should be set according to the extrusion rate the hotend/extruder can keep up with, and print acceleration/jerk should be set according to the dynamical properties of the printer's axes. If you increase them too much you might get rough surfaces, ringing, or even skipped steps/layer shifts, but you can go pretty high. 3000 mm²/s is probably the absolute max I'd try on an Ender 3. I did this and had some success, but some failures; I don't recall what jerk was and it might have been a factor too. The Y axis in particular can't handle acceleration as well as the X axis can, due to having to move the whole bed, not just the hotend assembly. Somewhere between 500 and 2000 is probably reasonable, but I'd experiment a good deal before trying it on a long-running print.\n\nOne additional method to increase speed might be reducing line widths to less than the nozzle width. This proportionally decreases the volumetric extrusion rate the hotend has to keep up with. But I'm not sure how well line widths less than nozzle width work for outer walls. This may adversely affect part strength too, which might not be a problem for your particular usage case.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10962,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Daniel Bozarth,2.528907649931287,3.776022737890987,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,Ender 3 Pro Filament extrusion problems,\"I run quite a few Ender 3 Pro's using the same slicer settings (Simplify3D), and just recently I have noticed a very odd extrusion problem. \n\nI find that at about the same height on several printers the printer under extrudes by quite a margin. After that, it either continues to under extrude for the rest of the print or it will go back to extruding proper amounts of filament with no problem. This destroys the print and makes it both structurally weak and defective. I am wasting quite a bit of PLA trying to fix this problem so any help would be appreciated.\n\nHere is what I have done so far:\n\n\nI first made sure that the hobbed gear is clean.\nI tried extruding the filament with a very hot temp (240C) there were no problems here and the filament extruded fine albeit, it was not on the bed, just extruding into the air to see if the problem was heat. \nI tried the same thing as above but with a low temp (180) this also proved just fine again extruding in the air.\nI calibrated my E steps per mm, those are fine and accurate.\nI tried increasing my flow rate to 118%\nI tried switching to a different nozzle\nI tried switching to a different hobbed gear\nI tried switching the mechanism that pushes the filament up against the hobbed gear\n\n\nThat's about it. Not sure where to go from here so if anyone out there can think of anything I missed, I would love to hear it!\n\nEDIT 1:\n\nAs per @fred_dot_u asked, the elapsed time at the layer of failure is roughly four hours in. I have also attached a picture of one example of this kind of failure below. I would also like to mention that this is happening on several of these printers as I have 18 printers running in one room. Our current theory is that the power draw is simply too high and so the printers are not getting the heat they need, however, the thermistors still register a solid 195C on my printers that are currently running.\n\n\n\nEDIT 2:\nHere is another picture of a different model with the same layer failure problem but at a lower layer height. This model was printed along with 11 other identical models on the same bed, all of which failed at the same height.\n\n\",R..,\"There's a known issue across Creality printers with the PTFE tube (bowden) slipping in the coupler on the hotend side, allowing molten material to push back around/up inside it rather than making it out the nozzle. I haven't experienced any such problem myself, even after applying some fairly serious abuse to that part of my Ender 3, but this video from CHEP claims it was the source of his problems and explains the issue well.\n\nI believe my Ender 3 came with an extra replacement for this coupler; if yours did, and this seems to be the problem, you can see if the second one they supplied is better. Otherwise it's an easy component to source third-party replacements for.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n11263,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Daniel Bozarth,1.0891412423578797,2.7905764474501265,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Ender 3 Pro extruder drive rocking back and forth,\"I've been running this Ender 3 Pro for quite some time with no problem up until recently. The issue was the printer refused to extrude filament (the extruder stepper seems to be rocking back and forth) so I went through a few things to try and fix the problem:\n\n\nI leveled the bed properly\nI printed at higher temperatures (215 °C for PLA which is the only filament I run in this printer)\nI cleaned the nozzle and I actually replaced the nozzle with a new 0.4 mm nozzle\n(same size as before)\nI replaced my bowden tube with a newer one (unbranded) and even replaced the tube fittings for the extruder assembly and the heat sink.\n\n\nI saw somewhere that maybe the wiring to the extruder gear is frayed but I inspected the extruder side of the connector and everything looks fine. I would open up the box and everything but I want to see if anyone has a solution before opening up the circuit box.\n\",ridley,\"Sounds like one end or the other in your stepper cable is not seated correctly or has shaken loose there are 4 wires if even one doesn't make proper contact you will get a shaking back and forth almost like a hard vibration. I always take a cable from one of the other steppers plug into this one move the motor with good stepper wire 10-20 mm see what motor does if it is okay then you know it is a cable issue if not, it could be a bad board or stepper.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n11321,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Daniel Bozarth,2.1782824847157594,2.8020788675182238,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How do I set the flow rate on my Ender 3 Pro and have it stay at that percentage?,\"I am trying to increase the flow rate on my Ender 3 from 100 to 108 % but every time I start a new print it reverts back to the old 100 % flow rate. I have clicked through the settings and pressed the \"\"store settings\"\" button but it still reverts back at the start of every print. I don't want to do this in my slicer settings as I run 18 Ender 3's so I want to be able to use the same G-code for each.\n\",Trish,\"Changing the flow rate during a print can not be saved. There simply is no way. It is usually meant to be a fix with filament inconsistencies or to look for the right extrusion factor for a new filament batch.\n\nSlicer\n\nThe only way to consistently increase the flow rate would be to alter the flow rate in your slicer to what you have found to work best for each machine, probably using separate profiles. This will up the rate for every subsequently sliced print. Note though that this 108 % increased extrusion is converted extrusion factors that are simply numerical and 1.08 times the normal in the g-code. These numerical values will be taken as 100 % by the printer - and since it requires extra work to slice the gode for different profiles it is not the optimal solution.\n\nAs you elaborated though, this is not a doable thing, so let's look further.\n\nSource hunt & Workaround\n\nSince only one printer is showing underextrusion while the others do not, it is time to check the hard- and firmware: \n\n\nunderextrusion can be caused by a defective extruder assembly or a damaged or blocked nozzle.\nIf a machine has consistent underextrusion, its steps/mm in the firmware might be off. This could be altered and stored in the EEPROM. Since this could be a machine unique setting, here would be your point of attack to increase the extrusion of just one machine while using the identical g-code to all other machines.\n\n\nNote that the standard firmware of the Ender-3 does not contain Thermal Runaway Protection and should be upgraded because of this anyway. You have to flash a bootloader too, so in the process of doing the upgradeability and safety-upgrade to all the machines, you could seed the altered steps/mm to each machine individually so they get consistent output.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n10972,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user17488,0.0,2.9816351676497708,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,Can you recommend professional 3D metal printing books?,\"I am a fresh graduate student in 3D metal printing. My undergraduate major is mechanical engineering. Later research will focus on the process of metal 3D printing. I hope that you can recommend some excellent 3D metal printing books for learning.\n\",Greenonline,\"This is a free ebook that I have perused briefly which it looks interesting, and it is free (did I say that already?)\n\n\n3D Printing of metals\n\n\nManoj Gupta\nISBN 978-3-03842-591-5 (Pbk); \nISBN 978-3-03842-592-2 (PDF)\n\n\n\nThree other books that might be of interest are:\n\n\n3D Printing with Metals for Design Engineers, Explained\n\n\nAnn R. Thryft\nDownloadable free ebook, but some sort of sign up is required\n\nAdditive Manufacturing of Metals: The Technology, Materials, Design and Production, \n\n\nYang, L., Hsu, K., Baughman, B., Godfrey, D., Medina, F., Menon, M., Wiener, S. \nISBN 978-3-319-55128-9\n\nAdditive Manufacturing of Metals: From Fundamental Technology to Rocket Nozzles, Medical Implants, and Custom Jewelry (Springer Series in Materials Science)\n\n\nAlthough, as the title contains a (rather obvious) mis-spelling, it does not bode well for the rest of the book.\nJohn O. Milewski\nISBN-13: 978-3319582047\nISBN-10: 3319582046\n\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n10972,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user17488,0.0,2.9816351676497708,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,Can you recommend professional 3D metal printing books?,\"I am a fresh graduate student in 3D metal printing. My undergraduate major is mechanical engineering. Later research will focus on the process of metal 3D printing. I hope that you can recommend some excellent 3D metal printing books for learning.\n\",Abel,\"Just wanted to add that ultimately you get a lot more quick practical knowledge from your machine's manufacturer or DMLS service provider so don't forget to look at publications from the industry leaders. They have incentive to make sure you succeed when using their products. Just beware the salesmanship.\n\nFor example Stratasys:\nhttps://www.stratasysdirect.com/resources/design-guidelines/direct-metal-laser-sintering\n\nI believe there's also a very similar guide from Xometry and others. Gpi also had some good insights on some of the more exotic materials.\n\",0.0,0.0\n10973,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Shinagan,2.1782824847157594,3.137850340878127,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Smooth finish on large parts,\"I would like to print a vase that has a width/length/height footprint of 100x100x200 mm, and the surface finish is of particular interest to me. Ideally, I would like to do a minimum of sanding/XTC-3D coating after printing, if any.\n\nWhat would be the best material to work with?\n\",Trish,\"From the printer...\n\nNon-post-processed surface smoothness of a print is mainly a function of the Layer height during print: it is smoother if one reduces the height of the steps taken between the layers. A very good FDM machine can achieve down to 0.05 mm layer height, but 0.1 mm is what most hobbyist machines can achieve if well dialed in. SLA printers cure resin in layers down to 25 micron reliably and some can get down to 12.5 micron - a quarter of the best achievable FDM.\n\nReducing the layer height in FDM comes at the cost of mainly three factors:\n\n\nPrint time increases roughly antiproportional to the layer height. 0.1 mm is about double the print time of 0.2 mm and so on.\nThe prints tensile strength gets reduced by increasing the number of layers increases, creating additional possible weakpoints.\nThe thinner the layer, the more susceptible the print is to errors like clogged nozzles or variations of the filament thickness.\n\n\nSLA printers are not affected by the print strength loss and the errors from clogged nozzles and can print entirely clear material without air inclusions. They are affected by the print time increase though. Usually, SLA prints come out of the vat covered in residual resin and curing them in the proper post-processing method results in this resin smoothing over the surface perfectly.\n\nSimple Postprocessing...\n\nMany prints can easily be post-processed. \n\nSanding\n\nPLA and ABS can be easily sanded down to somewhat smooth, but you'll need to spend time and muscle grease or go electric. A sander with 300+ grit can help a lot. If you have a rotational body, you could sand the vase on a lathe.\n\nPutty\n\nA plastic putty could be smeared over the stepped surface to smooth it and then sanded smooth. I personally like Valejo plastic putty, as it doesn't shrink, but Tamya putty also is a good alternative, bonding strong.\n\nPrimer-Filler\n\nIndependent of the base material, using a spray coating can easily fill in the notches and crannies left behind during printing. Printing in 0.15 mm and giving it a short spray coat of primer-filler twice, sanding over rough spots between did a good job of smoothing prints for me.\n\nVapor Smoothing\n\nIf you chose ABS, you could use Acetone vapor to smooth over the surface of a print in almost an instant. This can achieve Super smooth results with tall layer heights, as you practically melt the plastic over, but it comes at the loss of small surface details.\n\nExposure time is the limiting factor here: the longer the exposure to the acetone vapor, the more the surface is smoothed and the less details remain. Think of exposure time like running the smooth filter in blender once or twice each second.\n\n\n\nSimilarly, ethylacetate or propylene carbonate could be used for PLA prints, though timing might differ from the well established \"\"a couple of seconds\"\" for acetone vapor. Note that these two chemicals are much more expensive. \n\nCosts\n\nChecking prices, I was quoted about 90 €/l for (chemical grade) Ethyl Acetate and 130 €/l for (chemical grade) Propylene Carbonate via a laboratory supply. Useable Acetone (not chemical grade) comes about 3.70 €/l in home depot. For comparison: chemical-grade Acetone comes with a price tag of about 50 €/l.\n\nConsidering that ABS filaments and PLA filaments typically price similarily, ABS+Acetone Vapor is the least costly chemical Vapor smoothing.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n10974,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Romwell,2.1782824847157594,3.534665295714933,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.878685800062712,Is it possible extrude faces along normals individually in OpenSCAD?,\"For the geometry I am making, I want to extrude each face individually along its normal.\n\nThis is a standard procedure in 3D modeling software like Blender; see Example 3 here. \n\nIs this possible in OpenSCAD?\n\",R..,\"Built-in to the language and its CSG model, no - processing the CSG tree is a completely separate phase following execution of the functional language, and there is no way to \"\"read back\"\" anything from the conversion of the model into faces in order to operate on the faces.\n\nHowever, you can do this if you're willing to do some heavy lifting yourself, or look for library code from someone else who's already done it. What it would involve is working out a description form of your own in terms of nested lists representing the model, with a module for converting the list to an OpenSCAD CSG tree. You can then write functions to manipulate this description in arbitrary ways, essentially reinventing the CSG phase of OpenSCAD within its own language. Some lesser versions of this have definitely been done in the past for things like implementing \"\"loft\"\" type functionality in OpenSCAD.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10974,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Romwell,2.1782824847157594,3.534665295714933,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.878685800062712,Is it possible extrude faces along normals individually in OpenSCAD?,\"For the geometry I am making, I want to extrude each face individually along its normal.\n\nThis is a standard procedure in 3D modeling software like Blender; see Example 3 here. \n\nIs this possible in OpenSCAD?\n\",R..,\"For extruding a single face, as long as you can know the plane the face is in, you can projection it to a 2D shape then linear_extrude that. In general you need the cut=true variant of projection, and you need to translate/rotate the object to be projected such that the face is in the XY plane (this is the \"\"as long as you can know\"\") part. Unfortunately this is subject to numerical instability, so you probably have to translate it by an extra 0.001 or so to cross the XY plane, in which case you'll end up with an approximation of the face rather than an exact version of it.\n\n(Strictly speaking OpenSCAD doesn't have exact things anyway, except in the case of faces sharing points in a polyhedron, so this limitation probably doesn't make the situation any worse than it already is in OpenSCAD).\n\nOnce you have the projection, you can linear_extrude it in any direction you want, manipulate the result (e.g. skew with a transformation matrix), and rotate and translate it back onto the face. It should be possible to wrap up this whole operation into a module that operates on its child[ren].\n\nAnother approach would be capturing a thin slice around the face manually via intersection, then performing a hull with a translate of itself, but this will only work if it's convex (otherwise hull will fill in the convex hull of the 2D face shape too).\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10993,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Gooberpatrol66,2.1782824847157594,2.7905764474501265,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Hotend drops to 175 ºC once extrusion starts (MINTEMP error reported),\"\n\nHotend drops from 205 °C to 175 °C, and then the printer errors MINTEMP. How can I fix this? Fan is not starting yet.\n\n#define DEFAULT_Kp 28.65\n#define DEFAULT_Ki 2.80\n#define DEFAULT_Kd 73.33\n\n#define HEATER_0_MINTEMP 5\n\n\nMINTEMP is 5 °C? It's impossible it's getting that cold.\n\",Trish,\"Sudden drops in temperature curves like in your picture are usually missing readings on the thermosensor:\n\nDisconnecting the sensor from the board registers as min-temp of the sensor while shorting out as max-temp, so it triggers the mintemp/maxtemp security protocol: shutdown.\n\nOne could disable mintemp/maxtemp protection, but that wouldn't solve the issue. The issue is usually the wiring of the sensor. To find the fault, put temperature on the sensor but keep the motors disabled. Watch the read temperature. Move the printhead manually and slowly. If it suddenly drops and throws the error, you might have a faulty lead close to the printhead. If not, you need to open the electronics box to check if the connection to the board is ok. In the worst case, you might need to exchange the whole temperature sensor.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n10998,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mayoogh Girish,1.726248027126092,3.433715357735872,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,E3D V6 Original vs Clone,\"What is the difference between an original E3D V6 rather than a clone? \n\nI know an original would have its own advantages, since there is a huge price difference between the two. Will there be a huge difference in the output? By considering the following:\n\n\nPrint quality\nPrinting Speed\nMaintenance\nLife Span\n\n\nIf anyone has used both, please share your experience.\n\",Trish,\"While most components (cooling body, heatblock, heater cartridges, thermistors) of knockoff e3d-v6 hotends can be similar enough to not notice in a large part, or at least functionally the same. Note that I don't say the parts are necessarily interchangeable - a lot what is sold under the name is not what it claims to be. The main distinguishing difference is the heatbreak: a proper e3d v6 hotend is hard to manufacture, so let's compare the designs of the real and the knockoffs.\n\nOriginal\n\ne3D v6 heatbreaks are necked considerably and have a socket with an airgap to the cooling body in top to take the lining and prevent heat flow to the PTFE pipe. This makes it an \"\"all-metal\"\" hotend, because the liner stops in the cold zone, where the cooling block is screwed on, and thus gets the least heat to the bowden, allowing to print hotter than with a lined hotend. The cooling block and the heather block threads are also not the same: M6 and M7. They are flat at the front to securely butt the nozzle thread against. \n\nTheir internal and external geometry looks like this:\n\n\n\nKnockoffs\n\nKnockoffs vary a lot how their heatbreak is constructed. Some are lined all the way through. Others are pass-through - and neither is an all-metal hotend. Some knockoffs are necked but use the same thread on both sides. \n\ngallery of knockoffs\n\n\n\nConclusion\n\nIf you print a lot of high-temperature materials, the need for a proper all-metal hotend is there. Many knockoffs don't do this necking properly or invalidate its effect by lining the hotend all the way through.\n\nNote that the machining quality can be quite different.\n\nDue to sizing, not all knockoffs allow to mount a genuine heatbreak with knockoff cooler and heater block.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n10999,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chry007,0.0,2.9547933789762357,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Very messy prints with lots of fuzz on edges,\"Recently my prints come out very messy. I tightened everything up and checked the extrusion multiplier.\n\nI have an Ender 3 Pro which I use together with Cura 4.2.1 (and Octoprint). I print in PLA at 190°C. The print bed is set to 70°C. The Bed temperature is lower though, since I use a glas bed on top of the heated bed. I use a print cooling fan at 100%. The layer height is set to 0.2 mm, the line width 0.4mm from the 0.4mm nozzle. My retraction is 5mm at 45mm/s.\n\nDoes anyone have any idea what the reason could be?\n\n\n\",Chry007,\"I figured out the problem. I reduced printing speed and printing temperature and the print came out decent. Still some issues but worlds better then before. I will try a few more settings to determine exactly what was the actual Issue. I will also try what @Fernando Baltazar recommended and update here what exactly changed the printing quality.\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n11085,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chry007,1.0891412423578797,2.589815693999396,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Vertical lines with no layer adhesion,\"I have an Ender 3 Pro which I use together with Cura 4.2.1 (and Octoprint). I print in PLA at 180°C. The print bed is set to 70°C. The Bed temperature is lower though, since I use a glas bed on top of the heated bed. I use a print cooling fan at 100%. The layer height is set to 0.2 mm, the line width 0.4mm from the 0.4mm nozzle. My retraction is 5mm at 50mm/s.\n\nPrints come out with heavy vertical lines and no layer adhesion at these lines. I can easily break the print apart. In other spots the print is fine. Any ideas on what could cause this problem?\n\n\n\n\",cmm,\"@Trish's answer is good, and has specific Ender-3 knowledge.\n\nAs I look at the picture, it looks as if the number of affected layers is more than one, and in the enlarged picture it looks as if all layers are present, and the layer pitch is generally consistent.\n\nIn addition to @Trish's suggestion, check for any binding in the filament that may be slowing the extruder feed. This could be periodic as the spool turns, filament catching on something in the environment, or filament wound on the spool so that it does not unspool freely.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11085,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Chry007,1.0891412423578797,2.589815693999396,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Vertical lines with no layer adhesion,\"I have an Ender 3 Pro which I use together with Cura 4.2.1 (and Octoprint). I print in PLA at 180°C. The print bed is set to 70°C. The Bed temperature is lower though, since I use a glas bed on top of the heated bed. I use a print cooling fan at 100%. The layer height is set to 0.2 mm, the line width 0.4mm from the 0.4mm nozzle. My retraction is 5mm at 50mm/s.\n\nPrints come out with heavy vertical lines and no layer adhesion at these lines. I can easily break the print apart. In other spots the print is fine. Any ideas on what could cause this problem?\n\n\n\n\",Trish,\"The Ender-3 has a problem that stems from the way the X-axis is mounted and which can often be a source for \"\"jumping\"\" in the Z area. Seeing the upper photo, you can see that the bad printing seems to be on one side more than the other, leading me to believe this might be the reason:\n\nCheck if the X gantry is orthogonal to the frame on both sides and make sure the eccentric nuts are not too tight so that the wheels roll easily on it, but not spin freely.\n\nA little drop of oil on the Z-rod might also help to remove any binding, making sure that it moves smoothly.\n\nIf your layers are bad repeatedly, it also might be a problem with the extruder. Check if the extruder arm is all intact. When I had such an issue that was recurring every 10 layers, I found the lever arm holding the wheel on it broken and occasionally loosing contact. If it is broken, I suggest swapping the extruder assembly for a metallic one.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11001,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BG100,2.1782824847157594,3.298894097750058,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,G29 Auto Grid Leveling Doesn't Do Anything,\"I have an Ender 3 Pro, recently added a BLTouch v3, flashed a bootloader, and I'm now attempting to configure TH3D U1.R2.15 firmware.\n\nI have only modified configuration.h, haven't touched any other file, and configured it using the inline comments as a guide.\n\nEverything seems to work ok, apart from it doesn't do a grid/mesh level before the print. G29 has been added just after G28 in Cura in the Start gcode box.\n\nWhen I print something, this happens:\n\n\nBed + hotend heats up.\nX/Y get homed.\nNozzle moves to the center.\nBLTouch slowly comes down to probe the bed twice to set the level based on that one single center point.\nPrimes the filament and begins the print...\n\n\nI'm not sure what the correct sequence is but I would have thought it should probe 9 points in a grid as I have set #define EZABL_POINTS 3.\n\nHave I missed something in the config?\n\nconfiguration.h (have omitted all other printer sections to allow stackexchange to accept the rest of the file)\n\n/**\n* ************** How to use this firmware - READ THIS, yes actually read this. *********************************\n*\n* Uncomment means removing the 2 // in front of #define.\n* \n* FLASHING NOTES:\n* ALL slicers (Simplify3D, Cura, Slic3r, etc) or anything else that connects to the COM port must be CLOSED for the firmware to be flash.\n* If anything is connected to the COM port when flashing it will fail, typically \"\"access denied\"\" is listed in the error section of the Arduino IDE.\n* You MUST use the Included Arduino IDE to flash the firmware if on Windows and if you are on a Mac or Linux follow the guide in our knowledgebase to setup your IDE to work with the firmware.\n* \n* EZABL SETUP NOTES: \n* If you have EZABL uncomment the mount you are using with the printer. \n* If you have a custom/unsupported mount uncomment #define CUSTOM_MOUNT and enter your offsets \n* below in the CUSTOM MOUNT section. Refer to the EZABL guide to get your offsets.\n* \n* STEP 1:\n* Select the correct board from the tools menu for the printer you are flashing.\n* Read the printer title for the model you are flashing, it will show what board to select.\n*\n* STEP 2:\n* Uncomment the printer you want to flash. The printers are sorted A-Z by brand name.\n* If you are using the Creality Dual board with the Ender 3/Ender 5/CR-20 then read the specific section below in that printer section on how to do this.\n*\n* STEP 3: \n* Select the COM port your printer is on from the Tools menu. If you do not see the COM port try\n* downloading the latest drivers from the manufacturer or TH3D site on our knowledgebase.\n* \n* STEP 4:\n* Verify you have the correct board selected, printer model uncommented, and if you are using EZOUT and/or EZABL\n* the lines you need to use them are also uncommented.\n*\n* STEP 5:\n* Once you have your settings verified click the arrow in the upper left to upload to the board.\n*\n* STEP 6:\n* Reset your eeprom. You can send M502 then M500 to reset the EEPROM OR on the printer LCD go to \n* Control > Reset EEPROM to clear out the EEPROM to defaults.\n*\n* BOOTLOADER FLASHING NOTES:\n* For flashing your bootloader with an Uno make sure to select Arduino as ISP for the programmer\n* \n* There are other features in the TH3D Extras section so look there for V6 Hotend,\n* Bootscreen settings, Titan Extruder and more. You only need to edit this file.\n* \n* ERROR NOTES:\n* If you get errors flashing READ the message it gives you and double check that you selected\n* the correct board from the Tools menu in Arduino. Turn off any AV systems and reboot the computer.\n* \n* COMMUNITY REQUESTED FEATURES NOTE:\n* All features in the community requested features section are provided as-is with no support from TH3D.\n*/\n\n#ifndef CONFIGURATION_H\n#define CONFIGURATION_H\n#define CONFIGURATION_H_VERSION 010109\n\n//===========================================================================\n//============================ TH3D Configuration ===========================\n//===========================================================================\n\n// ONLY UNCOMMENT THINGS IN ONE PRINTER SECTION!!! IF YOU HAVE MULTIPLE MACHINES FLASH THEM ONE AT A TIME.\n\n//===========================================================================\n// Creality Ender 3 Options - Select 'Sanguino 1284p' from Tools > Board\n//===========================================================================\n#define ENDER3\n\n// If you are using our EZOut V1/V2 (connected to LCD header) filament sensor kit please follow the install guide\n// and then uncomment the #define EZOUT_ENABLE line below.\n// Do NOT ever connect our filament sensor without the supplied adapter board.\n//#define EZOUT_ENABLE\n\n// EZABL Probe Mounts (Ender 3 uses the same mounts as CR-10)\n//#define CR10_OEM\n//#define CR10_VOLCANO\n//#define CR10_V6HEAVYDUTY\n//#define TM3DAERO\n//#define TM3DAERO_EXTENDED\n//#define PETSFANG //This is the RIGHT mounted version - if using the left mount please use the CUSTOM_PROBE option.\n#define CUSTOM_PROBE\n\n// TMC2208 Creality Board Setting - uncomment this to set the driver type if you are using the TMC Creality board\n//#define TMC_CREALITY_BOARD\n\n//=================================================================================================\n// README - THE BELOW SETTINGS ARE ONLY FOR USING THE CR-10S DUAL BOARD WITH THE ENDER 3\n// DO NOT UNCOMMENT THE ABOVE #define ENDER3 LINE IF USING THE DUAL BOARD\n// Select 'Arduino Mega 2560' from Tools > Board - NOT Sanguino\n//\n// To use the Ender 3 LCD with the CR-10S dual board board connect the LCD cable to EXP1 on the \n// CR-10S board but rotate it 180 degrees. The LCD end of the cable goes to EXP3 on the Ender 3 LCD.\n// You will have to force it into the EXP1 but it will fit and work.\n// \n// EZABL and EZOut support are still supported just use the lines above this comment section.\n//=================================================================================================\n//#define ENDER3_DUALBOARD\n\n// Dual Extruder Board Options - The below options are for use with the TH3D CR-10S Board with dual extruder support.\n\n// If you are using a single hotend with the 2 into 1 adapter OR mixing nozzle uncomment the below line\n//#define DUAL_EXTRUDER_SINGLE_HOTEND\n\n// If you are using a dual hotend with dual nozzles uncomment the below line\n//#define DUAL_HOTEND_DUAL_NOZZLES\n\n// If you are using a 2nd EZOut V2 (connects to Y+ connector) filament sensor kit please follow the install guide\n// and then uncomment the #define EZOUTV2_DUAL_ENABLE line below. Do NOT ever connect our filament sensor without the supplied adapter board.\n//#define EZOUTV2_DUAL_ENABLE\n\n// Use Ender Bootscreeen instead of TH3D\n//#define ENDER_BOOT\n\n//===========================================================================\n// ************************* END PRINTER SECTION *************************\n//===========================================================================\n\n//===========================================================================\n// EZABL Advanced Settings\n//===========================================================================\n\n// If you want more or less EZABL probe points change the number below (only used if EZABL enabled)\n// Default is 3 which gives you 3x3 grid for a total of 9 points. STICK WITH ODD NUMBERS\n#define EZABL_POINTS 3\n\n// If you want to probe in on the bed more than 15mm change this below. \n// Do not use 30mm for the Standard CR-10/s or the S4 as you will be on the bed screws.\n// Try 50mm to avoid the binder clips if you use them. Do NOT go under 15mm here.\n// You can do down to 10mm on the Wanhao i3 since it cannot print on the entire bed.\n// You can do down to 5mm on the Wanhao i3 Mini since it cannot print on the entire bed.\n// (only used if EZABL enabled)\n#define EZABL_PROBE_EDGE 15\n\n// If you have issues with your machine running the faster probe setting disable the #define EZABL_FASTPROBE below.\n// DO NOTE: Most machines will work with the fast probe enabled. Use M48 to verify accuracy.\n#define EZABL_FASTPROBE\n\n// This will disable the XYE motors during probing. Can be useful if you have stepper motors causing interference issues with the EZABL sensor.\n//#define PROBING_MOTORS_OFF\n\n// Heaters will stay on during probing - only use if directed to by support. Do not use on AC beds.\n#define HEATERS_ON_DURING_PROBING\n\n// Letting the bed heat recover between probes can increase accuracy due to the bed warping during cooling/heating\n// Enabling the below option will let the bed get back to temperature during probing but will increase probing times.\n//#define WAIT_FOR_BED_HEATER\n\n// If you want a more granular control over the babystepping uncomment the below line.\n// This will make the adjustment finer than the standard setting.\n//#define FINE_BABYSTEPPING\n\n// This will extrapolate the implied tilt of the bed outside of the probe area. Do not comment out unless directed by support.\n#define EZABL_OUTSIDE_GRID_COMPENSATION\n\n// Does your machine make weird noises/vibrations when it is probing the mesh? Enable this to slow down the speed between probe points.\n//#define SLOWER_PROBE_MOVES\n\n//================================================================================\n// IF YOU HAVE A CUSTOM PROBE MOUNT OR ONE THAT IS NOT PRE-SUPPORTED UNCOMMENT THE\n// CUSTOM_PROBE OPTION IN YOUR PRINTER SECTION AND ENTER YOUR PROBE LOCATION BELOW\n//================================================================================\n#if ENABLED(CUSTOM_PROBE)\n /**\n * Z Probe to nozzle (X,Y) offset, relative to (0, 0).\n * X and Y offsets must be whole numbers.\n *\n * In the following example the X and Y offsets are both positive:\n * #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10\n * #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10\n *\n * +-- BACK ---+\n * | |\n * L | (+) P | R <-- probe (10,10)\n * E | | I\n * F | (-) N (+) | G <-- nozzle (0,0)\n * T | | H\n * | (-) | T\n * | |\n * O-- FRONT --+\n * (0,0)\n */\n #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -44 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]\n #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -7 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]\n#endif\n\n//===========================================================================\n//******************** EXTRA FEATURES AND TWEAKS ****************************\n//===========================================================================\n\n// TH3D RGB LED STRIP ------------------------------\n// If you are using the TH3D RGB strip connect to the Z+ endstop connection, power supply connection, and uncomment the below line\n//#define TH3D_RGB_STRIP\n// If you cut the strip shorter please count the LEDs that are left, uncomment the line below, and change the number below to how many LEDs you have.\n#define TH3D_RGB_STRIP_LED_COUNT 20\n\n// EXTRUDER SETTINGS -------------------------------\n\n// If you want to change the Esteps for your printer you can uncomment the below line and set CUSTOM_ESTEPS_VALUE to what you want - USE WHOLE NUMBERS ONLY\n#define CUSTOM_ESTEPS\n#define CUSTOM_ESTEPS_VALUE 138\n\n// If you are using an TH3D Tough Extruder, Bondtech BMG (set steps below to 415), or E3D Titan Extruder\n// uncomment the below line to setup the firmware to the correct steps and direction. Also applicable to Titan/Tough Aero setups.\n//#define TITAN_EXTRUDER\n#define TITAN_EXTRUDER_STEPS 463\n\n// DUAL HOTEND SETTINGS ----------------------------\n\n// This is the distance between each nozzle tip when using a dual hotend like the TH3D Tough Dual Hotend or the E3D Chimera or Dual hotends.\n// This setting only applies to printers using a dual extruder board.\n#define DUAL_HOTEND_X_DISTANCE 18.0\n\n// THERMISTOR SETTINGS -----------------------------\n\n// If you are using an E3D V6 Hotend with their cartridge thermistor (not glass version) uncomment the below line.\n//#define V6_HOTEND\n\n// If you are using a Tough Hotend from TH3D or any thermistors TH3D sells for your hotend uncomment the below line.\n//#define TH3D_HOTEND_THERMISTOR\n\n// If you are using a thermistor TH3D sells for your bed uncomment the below line.\n//#define TH3D_BED_THERMISTOR\n\n// If you are using a Keenovo with SSR and the Keenovo temperature sensor uncomment the below line.\n//#define KEENOVO_TEMPSENSOR\n\n// If you are using a known hotend thermistor value uncomment the below 2 lines and enter the thermistor number replacing the X after the #define KNOWN_HOTEND_THERMISTOR_VALUE\n//#define KNOWN_HOTEND_THERMISTOR\n//#define KNOWN_HOTEND_THERMISTOR_VALUE X\n\n// If you are using a known bed thermistor value uncomment the below 2 lines and enter the thermistor number replacing the X after the #define KNOWN_BED_THERMISTOR_VALUE\n//#define KNOWN_BED_THERMISTOR\n//#define KNOWN_BED_THERMISTOR_VALUE X\n\n// If you want to make thermal protection periods less or more adjust below. The number is in seconds.\n// If you are getting false thermal runaway then increase the protection time. Do not make it over 300 for either setting.\n#define HOTEND_THERMAL_PROTECTION_TIME 60\n#define BED_THERMAL_PROTECTION_TIME 180\n\n// BED SETTINGS ------------------------------------\n\n// If you want PID tuning on your bed you can enable the below line. But PID on a bed is not typically needed. By default BED PID is disabled.\n// This will be disabled when using automatic or manual mesh leveling with a 1284p board due to memory limitations.\n//#define PIDBED_ENABLE\n\n// If you are using an AC bed with a standalone controller (Keenovo) uncomment the below line to disable the heated bed in the firmware\n//#define AC_BED\n\n// Stock bed max is 120C for this firmware. Enable this to allow temps up to 150C. Your bed must support this temp for it to achieve the higher temperatures.\n//#define BED_HIGHTEMP\n\n// MISC --------------------------------------------\n\n// If you have a 5015 fan that whines when under 100% speed uncomment the below line.\n//#define FAN_FIX\n\n// Use your own printer name\n//#define USER_PRINTER_NAME \"\"Ender 3\"\" \n\n// If your printer is homing to the endstops hard uncomment this to change the homing speed/divisor to make it less aggressive.\n//#define SLOWER_HOMING\n\n// BOOT SCREEN OPTIONS -----------------------------\n\n// Use TinyMachines Bootscreen instead of TH3D\n//#define TM3D_BOOT\n\n// Disable Bootscreen completely\n#define DISABLE_BOOT\n\n//===========================================================================\n//****************** COMMUNITY REQUESTED FEATURES ***************************\n//===========================================================================\n\n// HOME OFFSET ADJUSTMENT --------------------------\n// If you need to adjust your XY home offsets from defaults then you can uncomment the HOME_ADJUST_LOCATION line below and enter your\n// custom XY offsets. This is provided for convenience and is unsupported with included product support.\n// How to use - measure (home XY then jog using the LCD 1mm at a time) the X and Y distance the nozzle is off\n// the build plate and then put those as NEGATIVE values below, positive values will NOT work (move your endstops to fix a positve offset).\n//#define HOME_ADJUST\n#define X_HOME_ADJUST_LOCATION -10\n#define Y_HOME_ADJUST_LOCATION -10\n\n// LINEAR ADVANCE ----------------------------------\n// See here on how to use Linear Advance: http://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html\n//\n//#define LINEAR_ADVANCE\n// Change the K Value here or use M900 KX.XX in your starting code (recommended).\n#define LINEAR_ADVANCE_K 0\n// NOTE: If using linear advance along with EZABL on a printer with 1284p some Control > Motion menus will not be displayed due to space restrictions.\n// You can still change these via GCode commands.\n\n// BL TOUCH ----------------------------------------\n// If you want to use the BL-Touch install your EZOut Board, uncomment the 2 lines below, uncomment the CUSTOM_PROBE option in your printer section, \n// and then enter your probe offsets in the CUSTOM_PROBE section above. The Pin 27 boards on eBay are clones of our original EZOut. If you want to \n// support the people that originally came up with the board you can get our EZOut breakout board here: http://EZOut.TH3DStudio.com\n// Sales from our shop allow us to allocate time for community firmware development at no charge to you. <3\n// If you have a V3 BL Touch also uncomment the BLTOUCH_V3 line to fix issues with the new V3 probe.\n//\n#define BLTOUCH\n#define BLTOUCH_V3\n// Here is where you set your servo pin. EZOut Servo Pin Numbers: Ender3/5/CR-10 - 27, Ender 2 - 29. For 2560 boards look for the pin you connected the servo wire to and enter below.\n#define SERVO0_PIN 27\n//\n// NOTE: On 1284p boards due to space limitations and the large amount of code the BLTouch requires for the LCD Menus\n// the Bootscreen and some Control > Motion menus will not be displayed due to space restrictions\n\n// MANUAL MESH LEVELING ----------------------------\n// If you want to use manual mesh leveling you can enable the below option. This is for generating a MANUAL mesh WITHOUT a probe. \n// Mesh Bed Leveling Documentation: http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-mbl.html If used with a 1284P board the bootscreen will be disabled to save space.\n// NOTE: If you want to automate the leveling process our EZABL kits do this for you. Check them out here: http://EZABL.TH3DStudio.com\n//#define MANUAL_MESH_LEVELING\n\n// POWER LOSS RECOVERY -----------------------------\n// Continue after Power-Loss feature will store the current state to the SD Card at the start of each layer\n// during SD printing. If this is found at bootup it will ask you if you want to resume the print.\n//\n// NOTE: This feature causes excessive wear on your SD card. This will disable junction jerk, SCurve Acceleration, and Linear Advance due to RAM limitations.\n//#define POWER_LOSS_RECOVERY\n\n// MOTION SETTINGS ---------------------------------\n// There are 2 new acceleration/jerk controls available in this firmware that can result is better print quality and\n// smoother movement. To try each out just enable them below.\n// Due to Anet board restrictions this is always disabled on those machines.\n//#define JUNCTION_DEVIATION_ON\n//#define S_CURVE_ACCELERATION_ON\n\n//================================================================================================\n// Language - This is provided for convenience and is unsupported with included product support.\n// We only test compile with English language. If you run into space issues disable some features.\n//================================================================================================\n\n/**\n * LCD LANGUAGE\n *\n * Select the language to display on the LCD. These languages are available:\n *\n * en, an, bg, ca, cn, cz, cz_utf8, de, el, el-gr, es, eu, fi, fr, fr_utf8, gl,\n * hr, it, kana, kana_utf8, nl, pl, pt, pt_utf8, pt-br, pt-br_utf8, ru, sk_utf8,\n * tr, uk, zh_CN, zh_TW, test\n */\n\n#define LCD_LANGUAGE en\n\n#include \"\"Configuration_beta.h\"\"\n#include \"\"Configuration_backend.h\"\"\n\n#define UNIFIED_VERSION \"\"TH3D U1.R2.15\"\"\n\n#endif // CONFIGURATION_H\n\n\nCura Start GCode\n\nM201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration\nM203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate\nM204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration\nM205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk\nM220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\n\nG28 G29 ;Home\n\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\n\n\",0scar,\"G-code is read line-by-line, see e.g. Is G-code read line by line?. If the posted start G-code is the actual used G-code, G29 is not executed because it is on the same line as G28. This means that in:\n\nG28 G29 ;Home\n\n\nG29 simply is ignored (it is not recognised by the interpreter as parameters for G28). This should be changed into:\n\nG28 ;Home\nG29 ;Perform bed leveling\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n11029,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BG100,2.1782824847157594,4.1483270596264425,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.8086301675739853,Calibrated Esteps Causes Extruder Skipping,\"I have replaced the stock extruder on my Ender 3 with one of these:\n\n\n\nThe grip gear has a smaller diameter, so I calibrated the esteps as per the top google search: Extruder Calibration – 6 Easy Steps to Calibrate Your Extruder...\n\nIf I set the esteps so that it's spot on with 100 mm of filament is used up when I ask it to extrude 100 mm, then during a print I get the occasional skip on the extruder.\n\nIf I dial it back a bit and set it so that it extrudes 90 mm of filament when I ask it to extrude 100 mm, then I don't get the skips.\n\nIn both cases the print looks normal.\n\nI've tried changing the nozzle as well in case there was some blockage, but it doesn't make a difference.\n\nShould I just go with the under extrusion? or is these likely to be some other problem that isn't apparent?\n\nI didn't notice any issues with the stock extruder and the stock estep setting, but I didn't think to check the calibration.\n\",fred_dot_u,\"Consider that the extruder is skipping because it is unable to push filament at the rate you are requesting. By reducing the steps to ninety percent, you are reducing the rate by that much as well.\n\nTypically, a skipping extruder is an indication of clogging, but it does not have to be clogging caused by particulates jamming the nozzle. At higher rates of filament travel, one needs higher temperatures to compensate for the cooling at those higher rates.\n\nConsider to reduce the print speed to ninety percent of the current figure, or raise the nozzle temperature by five to ten degrees (in steps) to see if you'll get rid of the cold blocking that may be causing this problem.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n11029,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BG100,2.1782824847157594,4.1483270596264425,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.8086301675739853,Calibrated Esteps Causes Extruder Skipping,\"I have replaced the stock extruder on my Ender 3 with one of these:\n\n\n\nThe grip gear has a smaller diameter, so I calibrated the esteps as per the top google search: Extruder Calibration – 6 Easy Steps to Calibrate Your Extruder...\n\nIf I set the esteps so that it's spot on with 100 mm of filament is used up when I ask it to extrude 100 mm, then during a print I get the occasional skip on the extruder.\n\nIf I dial it back a bit and set it so that it extrudes 90 mm of filament when I ask it to extrude 100 mm, then I don't get the skips.\n\nIn both cases the print looks normal.\n\nI've tried changing the nozzle as well in case there was some blockage, but it doesn't make a difference.\n\nShould I just go with the under extrusion? or is these likely to be some other problem that isn't apparent?\n\nI didn't notice any issues with the stock extruder and the stock estep setting, but I didn't think to check the calibration.\n\",towe,\"If you have followed that guide, you have extruded the 100 mm through the heated nozzle.\nThis results in your steps/mm value to also be influenced by hot end temperature, speed during the extrusion test, and potentially pressure on the extruder grip gear.\n\nTry recalibrating your extruder, but this time, disconnect the Bowden tube either at the hot end, or at the extruder.\nOnce you have the steps/mm set to something only related to the mechanics of the extruder, you can calibrate your flow rate - which you should usually do per filament type and even spool individually.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n11176,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,BG100,2.1782824847157594,2.8977288498929825,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Bumpy first layer with PETG,\"When I print with PLA, I get a perfect first layer.\n\nHowever, when I print with PETG, the first layer looks like this:\n\n\n\nI've read all the info that suggests reducing the temp, speed, and increasing retraction... I've done all that which has improved things a lot, but I still get this... I can't seem to work out what's causing it.\n\nHow do I get a perfect first layer with PETG?\n\nThe latest settings that I've tried, and produced what you see in the picture are, using Cura 4.3 standard Dynamic Quality 0.16 mm profile with these tweaks:\n\n\nTemp: 220 °C\nBed: 65 °C\nRetraction Distance: 10 mm (not that this would have any bearing on this flat first layer)\nPrint Speed: 40 mm/s\n\n\nOne thought I had, does PETG need a different clearance between the nozzle and the bed than PLA?\n\",0scar,\"\n One thought I had, does PETG need a different clearance between the nozzle and the bed than PLA?\n\n\nShort answer: \"\"Yes, for some it does\"\".\n\n\n\nThe results from your image are typically seen when the initial layer height for PETG is too small. PETG likes an additional gap on top of the usual that is used to print e.g. PLA.\n\nFor me personally I don't experience this general consensus (I've printed kilometers of PETG filament at 0.2 mm initial layer height at a glass bed with 3DLAC spray without any problems), but it is well known that if you print PETG (and if you experience problems) you need to increase the gap between the nozzle and the bed. From \"\"PETG Filament - Overview, Step-by-Step Settings & Problems Resolved\"\" posted on rigid.ink, you see that they (usually) advise an additional 0.02 - 0.05 mm gap:\n\n\n\nBottom line, if the normal gap doesn't work for you, increase the gap to see if that works better. Note that in some slicers you can add an offset in the slicer so that you do not have to do the releveling with a thicker paper (or if you are using auto-levelling). E.g. in Ultimaker Cura you can download a plugin (for recent Cura versions from the marketplace) from user fieldOfView called \"\"Z Offset Setting\"\" to get the Z Offset setting in the Build Plate Adhesion section. You can also do a little trick in the G-code by redefining the height so that you can put this in a PETG start G-code or something.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n11003,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mark Booth,1.726248027126092,2.945606960725559,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Understanding water soluble support structures,\"I've just done my first print on an Ultimaker 3 Extended and I'm slightly disappointed with the results, so I'm trying to understand how I can do better next time.\n\nMy first print\n\nPreparing for printing I naively just dropped the two stl files into Cura, set the recommended layer height and infill, selected support (defaulting to Extruder 1), deselected adhesion, ran the slice, saved the g-code and started the print running. Luckily the head 1 did have the same PLA AA 0.4 filament that Cura assumed.\n\nWhen the print finished, I stripped out the support structures, cleaning out the hollow, and cleaning off lots of stringy loose filaments between the lower support and the bottom edge of the print.\n\nEven after cleaning up though, the overhanging structure above the support structure turned out to be very rough with many individual filaments visible and in irregular positions, rather than the nice concentric lines in the slice.\n\nMy first attempt to optimise the print\n\nLooking at the completed print I realised that there would have been only a fraction of the support structure, and probably clean edges, if the part had been oriented as a d rather than as a p (the rough surface being the bottom of the p overhang).\n\nI re-ran the slice in d orientation and that saved 10 minutes of print time, and a 100 mm of filament, so I know I'll definitely need to look out for that in the future. I can also see how that would fix the problem with the external overhang separating out into loose threads, since that face would no longer be an overhang.\n\nTrying to add water soluble supports\n\nAfter the first fix, I wondered what I could do with the second extruder and realised that it was filled with water soluble PVA filament. This made me wonder if this would have helped with the internal overhang.\n\nI Configured Extruder 2 as PVA BB 0.4 and selected Extruder 2 for the support structures and re-ran the slice.\n\nI was surprised that the it was now taking 40 minutes longer and using almost 470 mm more filament!\n\nLooking at the slices, Cura had created a huge PVA scaffolding on the outside of the print, leaving the inside, where the previous PLA support had been, completely empty:\n\nvs.\n\nThis was not what I was expecting.\n\nQuestions\n\n\nWhy didn't the slicing algorithm place PVA support structures inside the overhang, in the same way as it placed the PLA support structures?\nWhat is the reason for the external scaffolding, and how does it help support the internal overhang, which now has no internal support at all?\nIs the behaviour I expected possible, advisable or configurable in Cura? If so, what options should I be looking at, if not is there other software that does support this?\n\n\",0scar,\"Owning the Ultimaker 3 Extended and having printed kilometers of filament on this printer I can tell you that printing with PVA, apart from the slicing problems you mention, is not easy as it looks. PVA clogs up very fast and is very hygroscopic. Moist PVA will make popping sounds on extrusion and is prone to failing. PVA is not my preferred solution. An alternative solution is to use break-away filament, my colleagues have some reasonable good experience with that.\n\n\n Why didn't the slicing algorithm place PVA support structures inside the overhang, in the same way as it placed the PLA support structures?\n\n\nThe difference you report could be caused by the slicer settings. I get exactly the same results if you set the slicing parameter Support Placement to Touching Buildplate (first image), or Everywhere (second image).\n\nvs.\n\n\n What is the reason for the external scaffolding, and how does it help support the internal overhang, which now has no internal support at all?\n\n\nTo answer the scaffolding part of your question, that can only be explained by being the decision of the developers. There must be very good reasons for doing it like this as a similar support structure is generated in other slicers, e.g. Slic3r (actually this is caused by a slicer setting, see this answer explaining why the scaffolding is caused). Some slicers do have options to change the support type, e.g. Slic3r has the option pillars, which creates pillars without external scaffolding:\n\nvs.\n\n\n Is the behaviour I expected possible, advisable or configurable in Cura? If so, what options should I be looking at, if not is there other software that does support this?\n\n\nPlaying with the settings to reduce the amount of PVA as suggested in the comments by enabling the type of extruder for specific parts of the extruder I was able to create a solution without scaffolding. This solution only uses PVA for the bottom and top layer of the support structure.\n\n\n\nThe shown settings1) produce a support structure with PVA top and bottom layers:\n\nor\n\nWhere the latter image is in material color; black PLA and natural colored PVA\n\n\n\n1) It might be worth mentioning that by default, the Support section doesn't show the Support interface extruder options and you have to go into Preferences and check the Setting Visibility option for those to appear.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n11003,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Mark Booth,1.726248027126092,2.945606960725559,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Understanding water soluble support structures,\"I've just done my first print on an Ultimaker 3 Extended and I'm slightly disappointed with the results, so I'm trying to understand how I can do better next time.\n\nMy first print\n\nPreparing for printing I naively just dropped the two stl files into Cura, set the recommended layer height and infill, selected support (defaulting to Extruder 1), deselected adhesion, ran the slice, saved the g-code and started the print running. Luckily the head 1 did have the same PLA AA 0.4 filament that Cura assumed.\n\nWhen the print finished, I stripped out the support structures, cleaning out the hollow, and cleaning off lots of stringy loose filaments between the lower support and the bottom edge of the print.\n\nEven after cleaning up though, the overhanging structure above the support structure turned out to be very rough with many individual filaments visible and in irregular positions, rather than the nice concentric lines in the slice.\n\nMy first attempt to optimise the print\n\nLooking at the completed print I realised that there would have been only a fraction of the support structure, and probably clean edges, if the part had been oriented as a d rather than as a p (the rough surface being the bottom of the p overhang).\n\nI re-ran the slice in d orientation and that saved 10 minutes of print time, and a 100 mm of filament, so I know I'll definitely need to look out for that in the future. I can also see how that would fix the problem with the external overhang separating out into loose threads, since that face would no longer be an overhang.\n\nTrying to add water soluble supports\n\nAfter the first fix, I wondered what I could do with the second extruder and realised that it was filled with water soluble PVA filament. This made me wonder if this would have helped with the internal overhang.\n\nI Configured Extruder 2 as PVA BB 0.4 and selected Extruder 2 for the support structures and re-ran the slice.\n\nI was surprised that the it was now taking 40 minutes longer and using almost 470 mm more filament!\n\nLooking at the slices, Cura had created a huge PVA scaffolding on the outside of the print, leaving the inside, where the previous PLA support had been, completely empty:\n\nvs.\n\nThis was not what I was expecting.\n\nQuestions\n\n\nWhy didn't the slicing algorithm place PVA support structures inside the overhang, in the same way as it placed the PLA support structures?\nWhat is the reason for the external scaffolding, and how does it help support the internal overhang, which now has no internal support at all?\nIs the behaviour I expected possible, advisable or configurable in Cura? If so, what options should I be looking at, if not is there other software that does support this?\n\n\",Mark Booth,\"\n What is the reason for the external scaffolding...?\n\n\nReading through the Ultimaker support page, I discovered that there is a Support horizontal expansion option in the Support section of the Custom Profile.\n\nThis appears to default to 0 mm for PLA, but defaults to 3 mm for PVA, which explains the difference in slicing behaviour.\n\nIf I set Support horizontal expansion to 0 mm, then I get the support I originally expected:\n\n\n\nUltimately though, the solution proposed by Trish and detailed in Oscar's answer using PVA just at the interfaces would be a much better solution, given the cost of PVA.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n11007,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,MattW49,0.0,2.717179978327238,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,\"BLTouch calibrated, nozzle still dives into the bed\",\"I am having a few problems with my BLTouch. I have calibrated it several times using different methods and get the nozzle being 1.3 mm lower than the BLTouch pin so a Z offset of -1.3 mm. This works fine for auto homing, bed levelling and using code G1 Z0 to lower to where needed. However when using Cura to print the nozzle homes exactly as it should then drives the nozzle in to the bed as it starts or tries to start to print and not just a little bit either. Anyone have any ideas?\n\nStart G-code is:\n\n\nG28 ;Home\nG29 ;Probe\nG1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move Platform down 15 mm\nG92 E0\nG1 F200 E3\nG92 E0\n\n\",Davo,\"You should be able to offset this with a G54 Z-1.3 - if your setup accepts these gcodes. \n\nIf you do this, always add a G53 to the very start and just before the M30 to clear all offsets after job finish (or in the event of a cancel, at the start of the next job).\n\nI'm not experienced with a wide variety of printers or firmware, but our repetier-based printers (and we use the same controls for our refurbished Fadal CNC machines) use G53-G59:\n\nAs explained in this tutorial from cnccookbook.com:\n\n\n Basic work offsets are very simple to specify: simply enter one of G54, G55, G56, G57, G58, or G59. [...] When you execute the work offset g-code, the XYZ offset will be added to all of your coordinates from that point forward.\n\n\nAs detailed on Wikipedia:\n\n\n G54-59: Have largely replaced position register (G50 and G92). Each tuple of axis offsets relates program zero directly to machine zero. Standard is 6 tuples (G54 to G59), with optional extensibility to 48 more via G54.1 P1 to P48.\n\n\nAnd on the gcode dictionary provided by Hyrel 3D:\n\n\n G54 through G59 - Set Offsets\n G54, G55, G56, G57, G58, and G59 will each store and invoke offsets in the X, Y, and/or Z axes for all subsequent moves. Any values not invoked will remain with their previous value (0 unless earlier specified otherwise).\n \n \n X is the offset in mm in the X axis.\n Y is the offset in mm in the Y axis.\n Z is the offset in mm in the Z axis.\n \n \n Here is an example:\n \n G54 X100 Y-50\n \n This command is decoded and executed by the printer as follows:\n \n G54 (set offsets)\n - X100 (+100mm to all X coordinates)\n - Y-50 (-50mm to all Y coordinates)\n \n Note that this differs from an M6, where the offsets are only applied to a SINGLE tool position.\n\n\nDisclaimer: I work for Hyrel 3D.\n\",0.0,0.0\n11009,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Kirito-kun,2.1782824847157594,2.8568583264187786,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,My first 3D printing - I need some advice or tips,\"It is my first time for 3D printing, I read some tips for forms, minimal thickness, angles, round or flat, but I am still not sure if I am going to do all well for the first time.\n\nFor my college final project, I had to make a small prototype and it requires an enclosure.\n\nMy concerns are:\n\n\nI am not sure if my design will require supports\nOverhangs \nPrinting Orientation\n\n\nHere part of my design:\n\n\nMost walls are 2 mm+ thick\nThe lid is a separate file, but it is really simple just a flat rectangle, I believe it is going well the first time\n\n\n\n\n\n\",Joel Coehoorn,\"I see this:\n\n\n I had to make a small prototype and it requires an enclosure\n\n\nand this:\n\n\n yes, it is hollow inside\n\n\nHow do you intend to get your item inside the result? This part really needs to be two pieces with two separate prints. Basically, a box and the lid, where you leave space for screws, include tabs, or plan for glue connections.\n\nFinish that alteration, and the support issue suddenly becomes much easier. Most slicers have options to generate support for you, including limiting support to spaces between the model and build plate. Now you can rotate the angle at the which the part is printed in order to minimize your support needs, or so that most of the connection points for the support will not be visible in the finished product.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11011,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bob R,1.726248027126092,2.835469776828434,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Two 12 V heater elements in series in a dual hotend,\"I have ordered a dual hotend Chimera and it came with 2x 12 V heater elements (in my rush I forgot to order the one with 2x 24V).\n\n\n\nIs it possible to run these 12 V heater elements in series? \n\nI am planning on running this with an SRK 1.3 board.\n\",cmm,\"This will not work as you intend.\n\nThe heaters are designed to be independent. They do not share a thermal path between them. The thermal load on the two extruders will be different whenever one nozzle is active and the other on standby, and there is no condition when both are extruding at the same time.\n\nThe two thermistors are needed so that each nozzle can be individually controlled. Placing the heaters either in series or parallel defeats this control, and many problems will follow. You will spend days trying to understand why filament is dripping, or not extruding, or the PLA cooks in the nozzle, or the firmware shuts down for over or under heating, or a nozzle seems to ever hit the right temperature. You will waste far more time than the time needed to order and receive the proper heaters.\n\nIf you must...\n\nIF you were trying to proceed with some testing, change the 24V supply to 12V. The stepper motors will be a bit more sluggish, but the DC-to-DC converters will probably (maybe) work well enough to power the electronics. Check your supply rails to be sure.\n\nBut don't.\n\nIt is better to wait, or find a local store to drive to and fetch them, or call a friend who may have spares.\n\nYou don't want the frustration, and uncertainty, and the possibility of doing something as a hack that causes other problems.\n\nOrder the right cartridges and wait for their arrival.\n\nps: Not to make this a shopping answer, but Amazon has qty 5 cartridges, 24v 40w, qty 5 for $8. Depending on where you are, you may be able to get these tomorrow and use them while waiting for the \"\"right\"\" ones to arrive.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11011,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Bob R,1.726248027126092,2.835469776828434,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Two 12 V heater elements in series in a dual hotend,\"I have ordered a dual hotend Chimera and it came with 2x 12 V heater elements (in my rush I forgot to order the one with 2x 24V).\n\n\n\nIs it possible to run these 12 V heater elements in series? \n\nI am planning on running this with an SRK 1.3 board.\n\",0scar,\"No you don't want to do that. \n\nA 12 V 30 W heater has a resistance of about 5 Ω (2.5 A on 12 V). A 24 V 30 W heater is about 19 Ω (1.25 A on 24 V). Placing two 12 V heaters in series means about 10 Ω, for 24 V that means that the current is 2.5 A, similar to a 12 V circuit, the power will be 30 W for each heater. So it appears that this should work.\n\nBut, the problem is that being in series, both the hotends are heated. This is not beneficial for the unused core which is prone to ooze filament and can cook filament if not used for a long time (long stand-by high temperature). Typically, unused printing cores go to a lower stand-by temperature when they are not printing. Also it would be more difficult to have filaments of different temperatures in the hotends. Furthermore, which thermistor would you use? A hotend cools down by melting filament, the temperature drop is measured by the thermistor results in the control logic adding current to the heater to compensate the loss in temperature. If you only use one thermistor (basically, from a firmware configuration perspective, the setup is similar to having a single heater in a single hotend and having the filament being changed) and using the other core (without a thermistor) to extract filament, the temperature drop will not be registered and as such not controlled. There is no default firmware solution to use 2 thermistors in a \"\"single\"\" heating element (in this case strand of heating elements), this will probably require some modding to the source code of the firmware.\n\nYou could test this setup, but I would not use it for a long time.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11018,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,alecail,1.0891412423578797,3.0563687480099424,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,Attach handle on a loose screw,\"The handle of a micro wave oven broke.\n\nI can't just order a replacement part because I can't even attach the new one. \n\nThe problem is that the screw heads are somewhere on the interior side of the door, which cannot be disassembled (non destructively at least). I wouldn't even do it because of safety reasons.\n\nI have access to the threads of two loose and captive screws to work with (indicated by the two red lines on picture one). The screws are not machine screws, but screws for plastic like in the attached picture.\n\nThe plan is to 3d print the plastic part of the handle and reuse the front aluminum cover.\n\nI don't want the handle to be loose, so I'm looking for suggestions to attach the new handle. I have a lot of ideas, maybe I will share them later if they are not mentioned at some point. The main problem is: how to attach something when all I have to work with is a loose, non machine screw ? \n\n\n\n\",Trish,\"You are facing 2 problems in this case:\n\n\nMaterial choice\nDesign\n\n\nMaterial choice\n\nAs far as I can see, this is an oven that can heat its interior to roundabout 250 °C, which means that the door will radiate a lot of heat. This needs special high-temperature plastics to withstand - PLA and ABS are not an option for this!\n\nI would suggest looking for PEEK (stable at ~260°C) or a high-temperature resin print in this case, as there are some resins which can withstand much higher temperatures after curing. Note that PEEK is traded usually for above 100 €/kg and needs a specialty printer. Even the less stable PEI filament (works under 170 °C) needs a specialty printer: All metal hotend and 350-380 °C extruder are needed!\n\nDesign\n\nThe plastic screws you show are self-cutting plastic screws. if their head is accessible, they get screwed into holes that have a bore large enough for the center.\n\nIf the screw head isn't accessible, for turning but can be pressed down, then one could opt to use high-temperature resin to cure inside oversized holes over the screw. This is not an option if the screw can't be pressed into the part though, as then the handle always will rattle.\n\nRepair?!\n\nNote that you might be able to access the screws with a little work, if you have the right tools and manual.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n11018,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,alecail,1.0891412423578797,3.0563687480099424,0.0,3.1880595895805834,0.0,0.0,Attach handle on a loose screw,\"The handle of a micro wave oven broke.\n\nI can't just order a replacement part because I can't even attach the new one. \n\nThe problem is that the screw heads are somewhere on the interior side of the door, which cannot be disassembled (non destructively at least). I wouldn't even do it because of safety reasons.\n\nI have access to the threads of two loose and captive screws to work with (indicated by the two red lines on picture one). The screws are not machine screws, but screws for plastic like in the attached picture.\n\nThe plan is to 3d print the plastic part of the handle and reuse the front aluminum cover.\n\nI don't want the handle to be loose, so I'm looking for suggestions to attach the new handle. I have a lot of ideas, maybe I will share them later if they are not mentioned at some point. The main problem is: how to attach something when all I have to work with is a loose, non machine screw ? \n\n\n\n\",Abel,\"If you have enough screw length exposed, clamp onto them via a 2-piece 'nut' that is itself bolted together via fasteners that run perpendicular to the screws. You can then fasten whatever to the 'nut' and maybe even hide the gaggle of fasteners that results. Another alternative for applying the clamping forces needed might be something based off a \"\"toggle wing nut.\"\" I do not believe you will get good results via 1-piece print solutions the way the screws are.\n\nLoads and nut material will determing how much screw you need inside the 'nut.' The more length you have to work with on top of that, the more room you have to hold the screws' rear ends w/ pliers/vice grip while getting your 'nut' on there.\n\nIf you don't have enough length, you will just have to use a different method of attaching to the door. Options may include adhesives and/or modifying the actual door - pretty annoying if you can't take it apart.\n\",0.0,0.0\n11038,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dlenno89,1.726248027126092,2.9362955533623216,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,What causes these blobby corners,\"Contrary to a lot of other corner related problems (where the corners are bulging), I seem to have a different problem where the corners (ONLY) seem to stick out and appear blobby in the x/y plane. This only happens for corners/edges with a fillet radius greater than 3-4mm and only in the x/y plane. Anything smaller than that radius (such a sharp corner/edge) seems to be fine. \n\nAny ideas what could be causing this? \n\nConditions\n\n\nCR-10s\nUltimaker Cura v4.2.1\nMaterial: ABS \nNozzle size: 0.4mm \nBed temp: 80 °C (I can't go any higher than this) \nNozzle temp: 250 °C\n\n\nWhat I've tried already\n\n\nincreasing nozzle temp from 240 to 250 °C (seemed to help slightly?) \nreduced flow rate from 100 % to 80 % - had a negative effect on overall print quality \n\n\nThank in advance for any ideas/suggestions\n\n\n\n\n\",cmm,\"I suspect you are printing through a usb or network connection, and the communication rate it's to slow for any of many reasons. A curve consists of many tiny linear movements, each requiring a command exchange between the PC and printer. \n\nIf you can, try printing from an sd card plugged into the printer (I'd the printer is so equipped).\n\nThis could be worse if the uses a Bowden extruder, since there is now compression and windup in the filament. \n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n11038,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,dlenno89,1.726248027126092,2.9362955533623216,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,0.7766301205685938,What causes these blobby corners,\"Contrary to a lot of other corner related problems (where the corners are bulging), I seem to have a different problem where the corners (ONLY) seem to stick out and appear blobby in the x/y plane. This only happens for corners/edges with a fillet radius greater than 3-4mm and only in the x/y plane. Anything smaller than that radius (such a sharp corner/edge) seems to be fine. \n\nAny ideas what could be causing this? \n\nConditions\n\n\nCR-10s\nUltimaker Cura v4.2.1\nMaterial: ABS \nNozzle size: 0.4mm \nBed temp: 80 °C (I can't go any higher than this) \nNozzle temp: 250 °C\n\n\nWhat I've tried already\n\n\nincreasing nozzle temp from 240 to 250 °C (seemed to help slightly?) \nreduced flow rate from 100 % to 80 % - had a negative effect on overall print quality \n\n\nThank in advance for any ideas/suggestions\n\n\n\n\n\",R..,\"150 °C is way too low for pretty much any material commonly used in 3D printing, especially ABS. I'm quite surprised anything comes out of the nozzle at all rather than just griding in the extruder gear. Most ABS filament manufacturers recommend a nozzle temperature in the range 210-250 °C. From your images, it looks like you have a lot of serious extrusion problems aside from the corners that should all go away if you print with the right temperature.\n\",0.0,0.0\n11040,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Stefan Foot,1.0891412423578797,2.5072605669755292,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Resin burns to transparent sheet,\"I recently bought a Kelant s400 LCD DLP 3D printer. I am using Wanhao resin (green) to print, using the recommended settings from Wanhao. I was printing a hollowed out cube as a test and it printed fairly ok, except one corner didn't print. Please see the attached photo. Turns out the corner stuck to the transparent sheet and not the rest of the print (base layers printed fine). Why would this happen and what can I do to prevent it?\n\nThanks\n\n\n\",Ty Hayes,\"The first thing to check is the transparent sheet itself - are there any defects (rough patches, creases, grazes) in the area in which the print was stuck to the \"\"transparent sheet\"\"[1]. This will cause the newly cured layers to cling better to that sheet than they should in that area, and likely caused the failure. If the sheet is marked in any way in that area, you likely need to replace it.\n\nThis kind of failure happens when the forces holding the newly cured layer to the transparent sheet are weaker than the forces holding the part together/to the build platform. These issues are usually to do with exposure settings - underexposed layers are less likely to bind together well and more likely to fail. \n\nSince the majority of your part printed correctly, it looks as though your exposure settings are probably about right. If there are no defects in your transparent film though, there may be unevenness to the spread of light across your LCD that means some areas on the build area cure less well than others. You don't mention what slicing software you are using, but many slicers allow for a 'greyscale mask' that can compensate for this by making the image displayed on the LCD screen less transparent in the areas that the UV output is stronger so that the weaker areas can catch up. Note that after applying such a mask, you may need to alter your layer cure times to compensate. \n\n\n\n[1] This transparent sheet is likely FEP film - essentially transparent flexible teflon, though I can't actually find that specified in the product details for this model of printer\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11046,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Rudy,2.528907649931287,2.6202374972039784,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Where to enable user interface encoder in Marlin?,\"I am trying to configure Marlin for a Ramps 1.6 board. I have an I2C 4x20 character LCD enabled. I have the LCD working with \n\n#define LCD_SAINSMART_I2C_2004\n\n\nI have a separate encoder, with push button, but I can't find where to enable it. It seems that combo display-encoder-buzzer boards are enabled as a set. Some common name, like the define I used for the display. But I can't find any useful information that includes a I2C LCD with an encoder. \n\nI'm looking for a configuration that would enable my LCD and encoder, or just some way to enable the encoder by itself. \n\nFor some configurations I found the following. But when I connect my encoder to those pins nothing happens when I try it. So I think I need to enable them somewhere. \n\n//encoder pins \n#define BTN_EN1 31 \n#define BTN_EN2 33 \n#define BTN_ENC 35\n\n\",Rudy,\"It seems that ULTIPANEL must be defined. The code for the encoder was included long ago with the Ultipanel (display and encoder) and does not exist on its own.\n\n#define LCD_SAINSMART_I2C_2004 // I2C LCD\n\n#define ULTIPANEL // enable code for encoder.\n\n//encoder pins\n#define BTN_EN1 37\n#define BTN_EN2 35\n#define BTN_ENC 31\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n11059,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ljung,1.726248027126092,2.634955868424173,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,G-code commands gets multiplied by random number,\"The G-code sent from Octopi to my printer gets multiplied at the end of every row.\nThe corresponding code out of Simplify3D do not have that multiplication.\n\nThis results in a always Max speed print.\n\n1 month ago all worked perfect.\n\nHave anyone seen this problem before? How to solve?\n\n\n\",cmm,\"I believe that everything after the \"\"*\"\" is a comment. From the random variation, I speculate that the comments for Octoprint are a check code. For other host programs, it is a sequence number.\n\n@oscar linked to a previous answer in a comment which shows that it is a checksum. I will need to check the next time I run Repetier Host, but that seemed to be a sequence number. Please see Oscar's comment (and upvote it).\n\",0.0,0.0\n11062,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Scrooge McDuck,1.726248027126092,2.55797842413943,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Reprogram Marlin to assign endstop pins to arbitrary tasks [Arduino Mega],\"Can someone point me out an appropriate entry code for this task in Marlin source code?\n\",Scrooge McDuck,\"Apparently, given one \n\n\nhas already enabled USE_<AXIS>_PLUG (for example \n<AXIS> = XMIN) in Marlin's Configuration.h,\none can add an additional define (for example <AXIS>_ENDSTOP_CUSTOM) in\nConfiguration.h and \nmake this block the else statement in an\n<AXIS>_ENDSTOP_CUSTOM existence check, with the positive case being your\narbitrary task.\n\n\nThe function that gets executed in the standard case in the linked block is PROCESS_ENDSTOP, so cloning it would be a good starting point to make a PROCESS_ENDSTOP_CUSTOM task, too.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n11068,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Scrooge McDuck,1.726248027126092,2.6051956195329864,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How to extend Marlin to support additional movement axis?,\"On a RAMPS 1.4 it is possible to mount 5 stepper motors: X,Y,Z steppers are used for cartesian movements, while E0 and E1 are provided for extruders control.\n\nI want to use E0 and E1 as additional movement axis in a robotical arm.\n\nIs it possible in Marlin and if not, how can one approach the problem?\n\",Scrooge McDuck,\"I found many ways to re-task extruder steppers to \nbehave like cartesian-like controls:\n\n\nIf your application does not require contemporary movement of\nall axes, you can enable multiple extruders setting the EXTRUDERS\ndefine in Marlin's Configuration.h.\n\nThen you can select which extruders will be set as E\nvariable in G1 commands, by sending T0, T1 and so on.\nIf your application require contemporary movement of all axes,\nyou can enable the MIXING_EXTRUDERS option (source).\n\nWith that option, you are basically splitting the E argument\nbetween steppers. To set the ratio of your movement, you can give\n\n\n\n\n M163 S0 P0.6 # Set stepper 0 to ratio 0.6\n M163 S1 P0.4 # Set stepper 1 to ratio 0.4\n M164 S2 # Create a virtual stepper with given settings\n T2 # Select the virtual stepper\n\n\n\nIf you want to configure additional steppers as proper axis,\ncheck this commit.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n11064,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,JamesJSkier,1.726248027126092,3.304391138419485,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,\"Prusa i3, MK3: Firmware updated to 3.8.0. Display shows white blocks\",\"About the printer:\n\n\nPrusa I3 MK3 [Sintron]\nArduino Mega 2560 (just replaced)\nReplaced LCD / Smart controller\nFIRMWARE 3.8.0\n\n\nSteps I have already tried:\n\n\nReplaced faulty Arduino\nFailed to flash firmware with PrusaSlicer\n\n\n\n avrdude-slic3r: Could not open port: /dev/cu.usbmodem1421\n\n\n\nConnected using Pronterface\nReplaced LCD Display / Smart Controller\n\n\nI replaced the Arduino on my I3 MK3 and have tried to flash firmware V 3.8.0. The AVRDUDE logs in Prusaslicer say the flash succeed. I haven't gotten any response from the printer. I also replaced the LCD display / Smart Interface to see if it was faulty. \n\nThe screen displays the same block-bar pattern. The heat bed starts to hear up, as well as the extruder tip, the extruder fan also runs. There is no response from the dial on the LCD display / interface. When I try to engage any of the stepper motors using Pronterface, nothing happens.\n\nI have also already read this this post. I am hoping that the print shield isn't fried. \n\nThis is the log output after attempting to flash firmware using Prusaslicer:\n\navrdude-slic3r -v -p atmega2560 -c wiring -P /dev/cu.usbmodem1421 -b 115200 -D -U flash:w:0:/Users/james.johnson/Downloads/prusa3d_fw_3_8_0_MK3 (1)/prusa3d_fw_MK3_3_8_0_2684.hex:i\n\navrdude-slic3r: Version 6.3-20160220-prusa3d, compiled on Sep 16 2019 at 02:08:32\n Copyright (c) 2000-2005 Brian Dean, http://www.bdmicro.com/\n Copyright (c) 2007-2014 Joerg Wunsch\n\n\n Using Port : /dev/cu.usbmodem1421\n Using Programmer : wiring\n Overriding Baud Rate : 115200\n AVR Part : ATmega2560\n Chip Erase delay : 9000 us\n PAGEL : PD7\n BS2 : PA0\n RESET disposition : dedicated\n RETRY pulse : SCK\n serial program mode : yes\n parallel program mode : yes\n Timeout : 200\n StabDelay : 100\n CmdexeDelay : 25\n SyncLoops : 32\n ByteDelay : 0\n PollIndex : 3\n PollValue : 0x53\n Memory Detail :\n\n Block Poll Page Polled\n Memory Type Mode Delay Size Indx Paged Size Size #Pages MinW MaxW ReadBack\n ----------- ---- ----- ----- ---- ------ ------ ---- ------ ----- ----- ---------\n eeprom 65 10 8 0 no 4096 8 0 9000 9000 0x00 0x00\n flash 65 10 256 0 yes 262144 256 1024 4500 4500 0x00 0x00\n lfuse 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 9000 9000 0x00 0x00\n hfuse 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 9000 9000 0x00 0x00\n efuse 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 9000 9000 0x00 0x00\n lock 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 9000 9000 0x00 0x00\n calibration 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 0 0 0x00 0x00\n signature 0 0 0 0 no 3 0 0 0 0 0x00 0x00\n\n Programmer Type : Wiring\n Description : Wiring\n Programmer Model: AVRISP\n Hardware Version: 15\n Firmware Version Master : 2.10\n Vtarget : 0.0 V\n SCK period : 0.1 us\n\navrdude-slic3r: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions\n\nReading | ################################################## | 100% 0.01s\n\navrdude-slic3r: Device signature = 0x1e9801 (probably m2560)\navrdude-slic3r: reading input file \"\"/Users/james.johnson/Downloads/prusa3d_fw_3_8_0_MK3 (1)/prusa3d_fw_MK3_3_8_0_2684.hex\"\"\navrdude-slic3r: writing flash (244050 bytes):\navrdude-slic3r: stk500v2_command(): command failed\n\nWriting | ################################################## | 100% 42.31s\n\navrdude-slic3r: 244050 bytes of flash written\navrdude-slic3r: verifying flash memory against /Users/james.johnson/Downloads/prusa3d_fw_3_8_0_MK3 (1)/prusa3d_fw_MK3_3_8_0_2684.hex:\navrdude-slic3r: load data flash data from input file /Users/james.johnson/Downloads/prusa3d_fw_3_8_0_MK3 (1)/prusa3d_fw_MK3_3_8_0_2684.hex:\navrdude-slic3r: input file /Users/james.johnson/Downloads/prusa3d_fw_3_8_0_MK3 (1)/prusa3d_fw_MK3_3_8_0_2684.hex contains 244050 bytes\navrdude-slic3r: reading on-chip flash data:\n\nReading | ################################################## | 100% 31.26s\n\navrdude-slic3r: verifying ...\navrdude-slic3r: 244050 bytes of flash verified\n\navrdude-slic3r done. Thank you.\n\navrdude-slic3r -v -p atmega2560 -c arduino -P /dev/cu.usbmodem1421 -b 115200 -D -u -U flash:w:1:/Users/james.johnson/Downloads/prusa3d_fw_3_8_0_MK3 (1)/prusa3d_fw_MK3_3_8_0_2684.hex:i\n\navrdude-slic3r: Version 6.3-20160220-prusa3d, compiled on Sep 16 2019 at 02:08:32\n Copyright (c) 2000-2005 Brian Dean, http://www.bdmicro.com/\n Copyright (c) 2007-2014 Joerg Wunsch\n\n\n Using Port : /dev/cu.usbmodem1421\n Using Programmer : arduino\n Overriding Baud Rate : 115200\navrdude-slic3r: prusa_init_external_flash(): MK3 printer emitted incorrect start code: `echo: `\navrdude-slic3r: arduino_open(): Failed to initialize MK3 external flash programming mode\navrdude-slic3r: Could not open port: /dev/cu.usbmodem1421\n\navrdude-slic3r done. Thank you.\n\n\nPronterface error log repeats the same error continuously:\n\necho:busy: paused for user echo:busy: paused for user // action:pause Extruder fan speed is lower than expected echo:busy: paused for user echo:busy: paused for user echo:busy: paused for user echo:busy: paused for user echo:busy: paused for user echo:busy: paused for user echo:busy: paused for user echo:busy: paused for user // action:pause Extruder fan speed is lower than expected echo:busy: paused for user echo:busy: paused for user\n\n\n\n\",JamesJSkier,\"I used Marlin 1.1.9 firmware and compiled and loaded it using the Arduino IDE. The printer works now. I was trying to use incompatible firmware. \n\nMarlin 1.1.9\n\nArduino IDE\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n11076,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hussain Bhavnagarwala,1.726248027126092,2.663475740203885,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,What does it mean when they say up to 256 interpolation and 16 micro stepping for the TMC step sticks?,\"I am planning to get a few TMC step sticks for my 3D printer. \n\nI wanted to know what does 256 interpolation with 16 micro stepping mean, in simple terms?\n\nDoes it help? If so, how?\n\",towe,\"Higher microstepping numbers result in smoother movement.\nHowever, printer control boards are limited in how many steps the can generate per second - as low as 10'000 steps/s on an 8-bit AVR board running Marlin.\n\nTo get the benefits of smoother microstepping, without adding load to your control board, TMC stepper drivers support interpolation between each step impulse coming from your control board, up to 256 different positions with which the stepper motor is driven.\n\nYou will still have to set up your firmware for the 16 \"\"real\"\" microsteps, the interpolation is only done on the stepper driver itself.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11079,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,T.J.L.,1.0891412423578797,3.2292362727989086,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,What do I need to go along with my new SLA 3D printer?,\"I just purchased an Anycubic Photon 3S LCD-based SLA 3D printer. I understand the need for cleaning and curing parts after printing. While the device is in transit, I'm looking to set up a workstation to use it with.\n\nAre there any recommendations for accessories to buy?: Particular containers to store materials in, particular products for cleaning prints (or cleaning the machine), particular lamps for curing, etc.\n\nI'm trying to avoid gotchas, and I've got time to visit hardware stores or make further online purchases before it arrives. I'm not asking about software or computing hardware, just things that I'll want to have \"\"on the bench\"\".\n\",Trish,\"Safety Gear\n\nGloves, you want to wear them whenever handling any resin. Single-use gloves are best - dispose of them after use. Consider them contaminated after touching anything in contact with resin and toss them before handling anything that shall not get in contact with resin. That includes door handles.\n\nA good idea is to also wear eye protection, as resin in the eyes could destroy them.\n\nWhile a dust mask might not be strictly necessary, it could reduce your exposure to the fumes of resin. Some resin fumes are known to create hypersensitivity.\n\nIt is also a good idea to put the printer into a dedicated workspace that is well ventilated and not your primary living space. I strongly recommend reading both Best way to deal with Resin Printers in your living space and Safe way of disposing resin\n\nPost-Processing Station\n\nYou may want to build a post-processing station. Most pieces can be sourced in any home depot store or made from household items, so I don't recommend specific brands but the requirements.\n\nWashing Station\n\nA typical post-processing station consists of at least 2 vats large enough to submerge your print volume in, so you can wash off your print in the first and then wash it with fresh liquid in the second. The typical liquids for cleaning are isopropyl alcohol and sometimes technical alcohol. Some resins demand special liquids that are specific to the type of resin. Best, the washing vats have securely sealing lids. Glass is preferably as it is easy to clean. \n\nTo use the least amount of cleaning liquid, you might want to have a pair of needle spray bottles - one for each bath. Label them!\n\nTo avoid spillage and ruining tables, a plastic table cloth can be a good addition. Fold it with the contaminated side onto itself for storage. A different solution would be to put the cleaning station onto a ceramic or steel surface, which can be easily cleaned after use.\n\nCuring Station/Chamber\n\nThe next step is curing the print under direct exposure to a UV light source, somewhat akin to how gel nails are hardened. Sometimes the sun is enough. \n\nSince the resin residue from washing is now in the isopropyl alcohol (or other washing liquid), treat it as chemical waste. To reduce the waste of material, flock out the resin in it by exposing the liquid to the UV light and filter the result. The result is Isopropyl Alcohol with some remaining contaminants, which can be used again for the first rinsing step.\n\nOther Tools\n\nBesides cleaning and curing the print, you need to remove the print from the plate, so you need a spatula or scraper, which is reserved only for your SLA printer. Never use it on the build platform of your FDM printers and consider it contaminated with uncured resin after use. Best cure residue on it in the UV chamber and then physically chip off the hardened resin before handling it without gloves again.\n\nSimilarly, a tool to stir the resin and remove flakes is often used, and some makers have special spatulas to clean the vat. Clean them well after use.\n\nYou will want to have some nice snippets to remove the support structures at some spots and some pliers to break them free - safety first.\n\nNeedle files and sanding paper for cleanup where the support stuck are a given.\n\nResin Recovery\n\nSince the resin in the trays might harden over time, you'll want to have some sort of rig to hold the vat at a tilted angle upside down so it can flow out, back into the resin bottle. A cover might also help to reduce exposure and allow short time storage in the machine. Thingieverse has a couple of solutions for lids, pouring and filtering stations as well as other accessories. Look for those that fit your printer.\n\nThe Resin should be stored in airtight and light-blocking bottles. As an extra security measure, you should store the resin in a closed cupboard to prevent light exposure through not totally opaque bottles.\n\nFurther Reading/watching\n\n\nAngus/Makers Muse on 3D printing safety\nA rather good guide regarding Resin 3D printing\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n11079,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,T.J.L.,1.0891412423578797,3.2292362727989086,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,What do I need to go along with my new SLA 3D printer?,\"I just purchased an Anycubic Photon 3S LCD-based SLA 3D printer. I understand the need for cleaning and curing parts after printing. While the device is in transit, I'm looking to set up a workstation to use it with.\n\nAre there any recommendations for accessories to buy?: Particular containers to store materials in, particular products for cleaning prints (or cleaning the machine), particular lamps for curing, etc.\n\nI'm trying to avoid gotchas, and I've got time to visit hardware stores or make further online purchases before it arrives. I'm not asking about software or computing hardware, just things that I'll want to have \"\"on the bench\"\".\n\",Metalfreak,\"I would recommend a tub for cleaning the print, some funnels to get leftover resin back into the bottel, gloves, since you really don't want to get any uncured resin on your skin and a strong UV light for finishing the curing process after the cleaning\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11081,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Frank Robert Anderson,1.0891412423578797,2.663475740203885,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Printing straight from the browser,\"Are there any browser extensions or printers with Octoprint built in that would allow me to print straight from the browser?\n\nThinking of a workflow like this:\n\n\nMake something with tinkercad (or other online service) \ndownload stl or obj\nselect print from bookmark or dropdown menu\nprint is sent to printer and starts printing\n\n\",Metalfreak,\"There was the CuraEngine plugin, but it's not really maintained anymore. It should still work though\n\",0.0,0.0\n11084,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Metalfreak,2.528907649931287,3.3916584347368426,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Getting wrong measurements on my Kossel Linear Plus after installing SKR 1.3 with Marlin 2.0,\"So I've switched the Trigorilla board in the printer with a SKR 1.3 with TMC2208 drivers and installed the latest Marlin 2.0, with a config based on this one. You can find the Configuration.h here, the only thing I changed in Configuration_adv.h was the pin of the hotend fan. \n\nNow when let the printer autocalibrate the delta settings, it tells me that the height is 141.35 mm, instead of the actual ~300 mm and I had to set the radius to 78 mm, instead of the actual 115 mm so that it doesn't try to probe outside the bed.\n\nWhat settings could I have set so horribly wrong that I get these results?\n\",cmm,\"I would check the \"\"steps per distance\"\" setting. If the motors were moving more than the firmware thinks, the height would measure as shorter than actual (since the number of steps would be less than the firmware expected). Similarly, the radius would scale up.\n\nYou replaced the controller and motor drivers, so perhaps the micro-stepping is different.\n\nIf the result is inconsistently wrong, it could be a dynamics setting, such as acceleration or max velocity.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n11084,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Metalfreak,2.528907649931287,3.3916584347368426,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.3995491493854546,Getting wrong measurements on my Kossel Linear Plus after installing SKR 1.3 with Marlin 2.0,\"So I've switched the Trigorilla board in the printer with a SKR 1.3 with TMC2208 drivers and installed the latest Marlin 2.0, with a config based on this one. You can find the Configuration.h here, the only thing I changed in Configuration_adv.h was the pin of the hotend fan. \n\nNow when let the printer autocalibrate the delta settings, it tells me that the height is 141.35 mm, instead of the actual ~300 mm and I had to set the radius to 78 mm, instead of the actual 115 mm so that it doesn't try to probe outside the bed.\n\nWhat settings could I have set so horribly wrong that I get these results?\n\",Metalfreak,\"So the problem was that the TMC2208 were wired for UART mode, yet Marlin was configured for standalone, which apparently makes them work, but with completely wrong step sizes. Changing it in the configuration completely eliminated the problem\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n11090,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,jnovacho,2.528907649931287,3.09461209787822,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Does right handed radial fan exist?,\"I have mounted two radial fan on my printer as a part cooling solution.\n\n\n\nAs you can see, the fan has input on the left side and blows air down. Does a mirror construction exists? With outlet on the right.\n\nI can even print my own casing, but I'm not sure if the fan will work, if I change the rotation direction.\n\nI'm using this print cooling fan duct: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1850163\n\nThe fan on the right side has the opening facing the hotend, and there is not much space, so the impeller can catch on wiring etc. If the right fan had opening to the right, there would be no such problem.\n\",0scar,\"Yes these do exist, but I've never seen them in the size you are interested in, see e.g. these projector fans:\n\n\n\nAn alternative are fans that attract flow from both sides, like:\n\n\n\nbut I've not seen them in the small size you are interested in.\n\nConsidering the placement of the fans in the printed cooling duct you posted, I see no problem in using 2 similar fans. There is enough free space to suck in air and if you are afraid that the wires are caught by the impeller, you need to properly fasten the wires, ty wraps work wonderfully in securing cables. If I'm not mistaken, you could even use the holes in the fans to secure the cables or otherwise design and print a small bracket for attaching the ty wraps.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n11090,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,jnovacho,2.528907649931287,3.09461209787822,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Does right handed radial fan exist?,\"I have mounted two radial fan on my printer as a part cooling solution.\n\n\n\nAs you can see, the fan has input on the left side and blows air down. Does a mirror construction exists? With outlet on the right.\n\nI can even print my own casing, but I'm not sure if the fan will work, if I change the rotation direction.\n\nI'm using this print cooling fan duct: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1850163\n\nThe fan on the right side has the opening facing the hotend, and there is not much space, so the impeller can catch on wiring etc. If the right fan had opening to the right, there would be no such problem.\n\",user77232,\"https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/120mm-Small-Squirrel-Cage-Exhaust-Plastic_653850349.html?spm=a2700.7724857.normalList.14.23834341IiKFAu&s=p\n\nAfter quite a bit of searching the above link from Alibaba was all I could find. I suspect that they don't make them like that because of the direction of the rotation of the blades. Perhaps they are made so that the rotor can be swapped around if necessary.\n\n(https://i1.wp.com/www.homeintheearth.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/CentrifugalFanTypes.jpg)\nThe different curving of the blades affects either the volume or the pressure of the airflow (or both).\n\nAlternatively how about one that is more agnostic:\nhttps://www.amazon.com/2Packs-Wathai-40x40x10mm-Brushless-Centrifugal/dp/B07RNZF97F/ \n\n\nOr just 3d print your own housing!\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n11096,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Eric Brochu,2.528907649931287,2.729972460763979,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Why is some part of the print not aligned?,\"I'm using a Prusa Slicer with a FlyingBear Ghost 4 and got a wrong printing alignments on the Y axis only on a part of the printing object. What may cause this?\n\nHere are the printed model pictures showing the problem:\n\n\n\n\n\nHere are the settings:\n\n# generated by PrusaSlicer 2.1.0+win64 on 2019-09-29 at 11:37:50 UTC\navoid_crossing_perimeters = 0\nbed_custom_model = \nbed_custom_texture = \nbed_shape = 0x0,255x0,255x210,0x210\nbed_temperature = 60\nbefore_layer_gcode = \nbetween_objects_gcode = \nbottom_fill_pattern = rectilinear\nbottom_solid_layers = 7\nbridge_acceleration = 0\nbridge_angle = 0\nbridge_fan_speed = 100\nbridge_flow_ratio = 1\nbridge_speed = 60\nbrim_width = 0\nclip_multipart_objects = 0\ncolorprint_heights = \ncomplete_objects = 0\ncooling = 1\ncooling_tube_length = 5\ncooling_tube_retraction = 91.5\ndefault_acceleration = 0\ndefault_filament_profile = \"\"\"\"\ndefault_print_profile = \nderetract_speed = 0\ndisable_fan_first_layers = 3\ndont_support_bridges = 1\nduplicate_distance = 6\nelefant_foot_compensation = 0\nend_filament_gcode = \"\"; Filament-specific end gcode \\n;END gcode for filament\\n\"\"\nend_gcode = M104 S0 ; turn off temperature\\nG28 X0 Y0 ; home X and Y axis\\nM84 ; disable motors\\n\nensure_vertical_shell_thickness = 0\nexternal_perimeter_extrusion_width = 0.45\nexternal_perimeter_speed = 50%\nexternal_perimeters_first = 0\nextra_loading_move = -2\nextra_perimeters = 1\nextruder_clearance_height = 20\nextruder_clearance_radius = 20\nextruder_colour = \"\"\"\"\nextruder_offset = 0x0\nextrusion_axis = E\nextrusion_multiplier = 1\nextrusion_width = 0.45\nfan_always_on = 0\nfan_below_layer_time = 60\nfilament_colour = #FFFFFF\nfilament_cooling_final_speed = 3.4\nfilament_cooling_initial_speed = 2.2\nfilament_cooling_moves = 4\nfilament_cost = 30\nfilament_density = 1.25\nfilament_deretract_speed = nil\nfilament_diameter = 1.75\nfilament_load_time = 0\nfilament_loading_speed = 28\nfilament_loading_speed_start = 3\nfilament_max_volumetric_speed = 0\nfilament_minimal_purge_on_wipe_tower = 15\nfilament_notes = \"\"\"\"\nfilament_ramming_parameters = \"\"120 100 6.6 6.8 7.2 7.6 7.9 8.2 8.7 9.4 9.9 10.0| 0.05 6.6 0.45 6.8 0.95 7.8 1.45 8.3 1.95 9.7 2.45 10 2.95 7.6 3.45 7.6 3.95 7.6 4.45 7.6 4.95 7.6\"\"\nfilament_retract_before_travel = nil\nfilament_retract_before_wipe = nil\nfilament_retract_layer_change = nil\nfilament_retract_length = nil\nfilament_retract_lift = nil\nfilament_retract_lift_above = nil\nfilament_retract_lift_below = nil\nfilament_retract_restart_extra = nil\nfilament_retract_speed = nil\nfilament_settings_id = \"\"FlyingBear Ghost 4\"\"\nfilament_soluble = 0\nfilament_toolchange_delay = 0\nfilament_type = PLA\nfilament_unload_time = 0\nfilament_unloading_speed = 90\nfilament_unloading_speed_start = 100\nfilament_wipe = nil\nfill_angle = 45\nfill_density = 20%\nfill_pattern = stars\nfirst_layer_acceleration = 0\nfirst_layer_bed_temperature = 60\nfirst_layer_extrusion_width = 0.42\nfirst_layer_height = 0.2\nfirst_layer_speed = 30\nfirst_layer_temperature = 210\ngap_fill_speed = 20\ngcode_comments = 0\ngcode_flavor = marlin\ngcode_label_objects = 0\nhigh_current_on_filament_swap = 0\nhost_type = octoprint\ninfill_acceleration = 0\ninfill_every_layers = 1\ninfill_extruder = 1\ninfill_extrusion_width = 0.45\ninfill_first = 0\ninfill_only_where_needed = 0\ninfill_overlap = 25%\ninfill_speed = 80\ninterface_shells = 0\nlayer_gcode = \nlayer_height = 0.1\nmachine_max_acceleration_e = 10000,5000\nmachine_max_acceleration_extruding = 1500,1250\nmachine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1500,1250\nmachine_max_acceleration_x = 9000,1000\nmachine_max_acceleration_y = 9000,1000\nmachine_max_acceleration_z = 500,200\nmachine_max_feedrate_e = 120,120\nmachine_max_feedrate_x = 500,200\nmachine_max_feedrate_y = 500,200\nmachine_max_feedrate_z = 12,12\nmachine_max_jerk_e = 2.5,2.5\nmachine_max_jerk_x = 10,10\nmachine_max_jerk_y = 10,10\nmachine_max_jerk_z = 0.2,0.4\nmachine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0\nmachine_min_travel_rate = 0,0\nmax_fan_speed = 100\nmax_layer_height = 0\nmax_print_height = 200\nmax_print_speed = 80\nmax_volumetric_speed = 0\nmin_fan_speed = 35\nmin_layer_height = 0.07\nmin_print_speed = 10\nmin_skirt_length = 0\nnotes = \nnozzle_diameter = 0.4\nonly_retract_when_crossing_perimeters = 1\nooze_prevention = 0\noutput_filename_format = [input_filename_base].gcode\noverhangs = 1\nparking_pos_retraction = 92\nperimeter_acceleration = 0\nperimeter_extruder = 1\nperimeter_extrusion_width = 0.45\nperimeter_speed = 60\nperimeters = 4\npost_process = \nprint_host = \nprint_settings_id = FlyingBear Ghost 4\nprinter_model = \nprinter_notes = \nprinter_settings_id = FlyingBear Ghost 4\nprinter_technology = FFF\nprinter_variant = \nprinter_vendor = \nprinthost_apikey = \nprinthost_cafile = \nraft_layers = 0\nremaining_times = 0\nresolution = 0\nretract_before_travel = 2\nretract_before_wipe = 0%\nretract_layer_change = 0\nretract_length = 2\nretract_length_toolchange = 10\nretract_lift = 0\nretract_lift_above = 0\nretract_lift_below = 0\nretract_restart_extra = 0\nretract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0\nretract_speed = 40\nseam_position = aligned\nserial_port = \nserial_speed = 250000\nsilent_mode = 1\nsingle_extruder_multi_material = 0\nsingle_extruder_multi_material_priming = 1\nskirt_distance = 6\nskirt_height = 1\nskirts = 1\nslice_closing_radius = 0.049\nslowdown_below_layer_time = 5\nsmall_perimeter_speed = 15\nsolid_infill_below_area = 70\nsolid_infill_every_layers = 0\nsolid_infill_extruder = 1\nsolid_infill_extrusion_width = 0.45\nsolid_infill_speed = 20\nspiral_vase = 0\nstandby_temperature_delta = -5\nstart_filament_gcode = \"\"; Filament gcode\\n\"\"\nstart_gcode = G28 ; home all axes\\nG1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle\\n\nsupport_material = 1\nsupport_material_angle = 0\nsupport_material_auto = 1\nsupport_material_buildplate_only = 0\nsupport_material_contact_distance = 0.2\nsupport_material_enforce_layers = 0\nsupport_material_extruder = 1\nsupport_material_extrusion_width = 0.35\nsupport_material_interface_contact_loops = 0\nsupport_material_interface_extruder = 1\nsupport_material_interface_layers = 3\nsupport_material_interface_spacing = 0\nsupport_material_interface_speed = 100%\nsupport_material_pattern = rectilinear\nsupport_material_spacing = 2.5\nsupport_material_speed = 60\nsupport_material_synchronize_layers = 0\nsupport_material_threshold = 0\nsupport_material_with_sheath = 1\nsupport_material_xy_spacing = 50%\ntemperature = 210\nthin_walls = 1\nthreads = 4\ntoolchange_gcode = \ntop_fill_pattern = rectilinear\ntop_infill_extrusion_width = 0.4\ntop_solid_infill_speed = 15\ntop_solid_layers = 9\ntravel_speed = 150\nuse_firmware_retraction = 0\nuse_relative_e_distances = 0\nuse_volumetric_e = 0\nvariable_layer_height = 1\nwipe = 0\nwipe_into_infill = 0\nwipe_into_objects = 0\nwipe_tower = 0\nwipe_tower_bridging = 10\nwipe_tower_rotation_angle = 0\nwipe_tower_width = 60\nwipe_tower_x = 180\nwipe_tower_y = 140\nwiping_volumes_extruders = 70,70\nwiping_volumes_matrix = 0\nxy_size_compensation = 0\nz_offset = 0\n\n\",R..,\"This looks like your problems are lack of retraction and having the slicer's \"\"overhangs\"\" setting enabled.\n\nRetraction is absolutely essential when your print has layers with multiple disconnected components, and even when it doesn't, it's usually important. Without retraction, material will continue to flow out of the nozzle after extrusion is supposed to have stopped, producing oozing/stringing and subsequent underextrustion (due to the material already having been lost elsewhere).\n\nThe \"\"overhangs\"\" setting is actively harmful unless your printer firmware has \"\"linear advance\"\" feature and you have calibrated it properly. Otherwise, when reaching part of the perimeter that's an overhang, the print head motion will slow down (I think PrusaSlicer does 10-20 mm/s for overhangs), but extrusion will continue at the full previous rate until pressure in the nozzle subsides. This is what's causing all the ugly sagging loops around the tail. Disable this misfeature so that print speed remains constant between overhang and non-overhang parts of the perimeters.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n11201,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Eric Brochu,2.1782824847157594,2.8673070466884,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,How to get rid of deforming small prints?,\"When printing a big base on the bed, I got no warping, but once I print small part (3 or less inches wide), there is a bit of warping on my piece as I remove it.\n\n\n\nIt is 2 inches wide by 1 mm thick by the base. It seems to be well sticked to the bed while printing, but once removed, it bends a bit. I tried multiple times and it bends at a different place.\n\nI was wondering if it may be thicker if it won't bend at all.\n\nCan you guys help me with it?\n\nHere my Slic3r settings:\n\n# generated by PrusaSlicer 2.1.0+win64 on 2019-10-19 at 11:38:38 UTC\navoid_crossing_perimeters = 0\nbed_temperature = 60\nbottom_fill_pattern = rectilinear\nbottom_solid_layers = 7\nbrim_width = 5\ncooling = 1\nend_filament_gcode = \"\"; Filament-specific end gcode \\n;END gcode for filament\\n\"\"\nend_gcode = M104 S0 ; turn off temperature\\nG28 X0 Y0 ; home X and Y axis\\nG1 Z210 F5000 ; Send Z to top\\nM84 ; disable motors\\n\nensure_vertical_shell_thickness = 1\nexternal_perimeter_extrusion_width = 0.45\nexternal_perimeter_speed = 50%\nextrusion_multiplier = 1\nextrusion_width = 0.45\nfan_always_on = 1\nfilament_diameter = 1.75\nfilament_settings_id = \"\"FlyingBear Ghost 4\"\"\nfilament_type = PLA\nfill_angle = 45\nfill_density = 20%\nfill_pattern = stars\nfirst_layer_bed_temperature = 65\nfirst_layer_extrusion_width = 0.42\nfirst_layer_height = 0.2\nfirst_layer_speed = 30\nfirst_layer_temperature = 200\ninfill_extrusion_width = 0.45\ninfill_overlap = 25%\ninfill_speed = 80\nlayer_height = 0.1\nnozzle_diameter = 0.4\nperimeter_extruder = 1\nperimeter_extrusion_width = 0.45\nperimeter_speed = 45\nprint_settings_id = FlyingBear Ghost 4\nprinter_settings_id = FlyingBear Ghost 4\nprinter_technology = FFF\nretract_before_travel = 1\nretract_before_wipe = 0%\nretract_layer_change = 1\nretract_length = 0.8\nretract_length_toolchange = 10\nretract_lift = 0\nretract_lift_above = 0\nretract_lift_below = 209\nretract_restart_extra = 0\nretract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0\nretract_speed = 40\nseam_position = aligned\n\n\nAs I said, I got no problem adhering to the bed, it's when I remove it from the bed it becomes deformed. \n\",Trish,\"Pla is flexible and can be shaped at temperatures as low as 50 deg C. To prevent deforming your prints in removing them, you should wait for the bed to reach room temperature. This takes about 5 minutes after a print ended.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n11107,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,user18696,2.1782824847157594,2.8673070466884,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Anet A8 not printing over heat bed,\"My Anet A8 printer will not print over the heated bed. \n\nOnce I have prepared a file on Cura and inserted the SD card into the printer, the nozzle (extruder) moves into the top left corner and stays there. I have unchecked \"\"Origin at center\"\" and been over the printer settings multiple times. Yet still nothing.\n\nAny suggestions?\n\nI have included a picture of the settings I am using:\n\n\n\n\n\",Desko,\"do you set the {speed_print} value correct? Otherwise the command G1 Z15.0 F {speed_print} is not executable imho...\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n11111,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jack Harris,1.0891412423578797,2.55797842413943,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"CR-10 Ignoring Z-Stop Switch, Keeps Trying to Lower\",\"I have a CR-10 with TH3D's most recent firmware on it and an EZABL (Plug & Print Auto Bed Leveling Kit) installed. My problem is that when I select \"\"Auto Home\"\", the printer ignores the Z-stop switch and keeps trying to lower the extruder, grinding and shuddering until I have to power it off. I can't seem to figure out what the problem is.\n\",Chuck,\"I had this same issue with my CR-10s. My black and white wires were reversed where I plugged them in to the motherboard in place of the stock z stop wires. I had to take apart the connector and swap them, as they came backwards from the mfg. Once I did that it worked perfectly.\n\nThe image I'm attaching helped me solve my issue. It is not mine, after much searching I found kenneycp's reply on this comment thread \nhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2975949/comments\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11123,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,MillerMedia,2.528907649931287,3.11657263068942,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Horizontal line z-axis not printing correctly,\"I have just started with the FlashForge Creator Pro using the FlashPrint slicer software. I have gotten some nice prints but I am having an issue with a certain print from this model of a knife.\n\nSee image below:\n\n\n\nEverything prints fine up to where the blade starts. As you can see, there is horizontal portion of the blade that juts out and, as I predicted, when it tries to print this, there is nothing for it to adhere to so it hangs there and when the extruder moves, it just pulls the filament around with it and creates a mess.\n\nThe object file from Thingiverse is designed that way (with it standing upright) and there are pictures on the Thingiverse page of a successfully printed knife. As I am new to this, I am wracking my brain trying to figure out how to print this.\n\nI tried to cut the design and print the handle and blade separately (laying the blade down flat on the print surface) but the blade isn't perfectly flat on the sides so it doesn't lay flat. I suppose I could also just cut the blade and lay it vertically on the print surface but it seems as though it was designed to print in full in one piece.\n\nAny help or any pointers in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!\n\",fred_dot_u,\"You'll notice in the screen capture that there is an icon marked \"\"supports.\"\" This is precisely the solution required. When selected, the software should construct a series of vertical pillars in the locations required to properly print the horizontal portion of the knife blade.\n\nIt's common for Thingiverse models to have a notation Supports (yes/no) to indicate that this feature should be activated. Depending on the capability of your printer, some angles may require supports that are not required on someone else's printer model. There may also be an adjustment for angle reference to cease supports or to require. My printer will handle up to a 50° from vertical without support. Beyond that, more filament is used, but the result is superior to printing without it, as you've discovered.\n\nNote also that support is typically categorized as \"\"from the bed only\"\" or \"\"everywhere.\"\" The former prevents support from being generated between vertically separated parts of the model, while the latter permits it. Some models may have, for example, a foot on the bed not requiring support, but the arm directly above the foot does. \"\"From the bed only\"\" means the arm would droop/fail as no support would be generated above that portion of the model.\n\nIf you are using the ReplicatorG 0400 software, referenced from the manufacturer's web site, page 11 of the manual will have additional information regarding support within the program.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n11166,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,MillerMedia,2.528907649931287,2.9547933789762357,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,PLA Filament Not Softening During Load w/ FlashForge Creator Pro,\"Recently, after printing fine for several weeks, I've gone to load in white PLA filament into the right extruder on my FlashForge Creator Pro and the extruder is not pulling the white PLA filament through. The gears grab the filament and pull it down but it never makes it out the other end. I have successfully used this filament through this same extruder as recently as yesterday. The steps I have taken are:\n\n• Remove the extruder motor and cleaned the gears. There was no noticeable issues or clogs.\n\n• Turned the heat on and used the skinny metal unclogging tool that came with the printer to drive any excess filament out of the nozzle.\n\n• Removed the nozzle and cleaned as best as I could. To be clear, this does not appear to be a nozzle clog because I have removed the nozzle, leaving the plastic tube that's under it in the extruder and I can run the unclogging tool all the way through the tube and out the top of extruder when the nozzle is not on. The line appears to be clear.\n\n• I then tried to load the filament without the nozzle on (but with the plastic tube still in the extruder; which I confirmed in the last step does not have a clog in it). Same problem.\n\n• I unloading the black PLA filament from the left extruder and then took the white PLA filament (which wouldn't load into the right extruder) and tried to load it into the left one. Same problem. I then took the black PLA filament and went to load it back into the left extruder and it worked fine.\n\n\n\nThe white filament seems to be the problem but I cannot figure out what the problem would be. It's the same size as the black filament and the black filament works fine through the extruders that the white one does not. As mentioned, this filament worked fine yesterday.\n\nI took the fan off and watched the filament get gripped by the motor gears and pulled down until it is entered into the hole below the motor. That is the point at which is gets stuck. It appears the filament simply is not being softened/melted enough to start feeding through the smaller hole.\n\nI researched this and saw that this could be the result of a faulty reading by the machine due to thermocouple problems (?) but it seems doubtful now that I've tested successfully with black filament.\n\nMy settings are as follows:\n\nFlashForge Creator Pro\nPLA Filament\nExtruder - 210C (I started a 200C but then increased)\n\nAny thoughts or pointers would be great. Thank you!\n\",MillerMedia,\"After all of this trial and error it was a simple solution.\n\nI did not snip off the end of the filament after unloading. The filament had been tapered after unloading because of the way it was extruded previously. I don't know exactly why (please feel free to add to this answer) but when I made a clean cut on the end of the filament and then fed it through, it extruded with no problem.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n11134,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Odious,2.528907649931287,2.574082176164519,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,G28 ignoring Z-Probe X/Y Offsets,\"I recently installed a SKR 1.3 Board with a 3DTouch-Probe on my Creality Ender 3 Pro. \nThe probe works, G29 does its magic, but:\n\nIf i issue a plain G28, the hotend first homes X and Y like before the Z-probe. \nThe probe is now next to, not above, the bed.\nAs the next step, the printer is supposed to home the Z-axis. The probe deploys and Z starts to lower until it smashes into the bed, because the probe misses the bed (if I don't stop it, that is).\n\nI configured X/Y offsets for the probe, but they don't seem to be honored when performing the G28 code.\n\nIf I home X/Y \"\"manually\"\" with G28 X Y, move the hotend with like G1 X45 Y10, then home Z with G28 Z it works fine.\n\nWhat did I miss? Is this intended behaviour & the user has to take care never to issue a plain G28?!\n\",0scar,\"You need to enable the constant Z_SAFE_HOMING (like: #define Z_SAFE_HOMING) in your printer configuration file (if you're using Marlin firmware that is). This will move the nozzle to the middle of the plate prior to lowering the nozzle by default:\n\n#if ENABLED(Z_SAFE_HOMING)\n #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT ((X_BED_SIZE) / 2) // X point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).\n #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT ((Y_BED_SIZE) / 2) // Y point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).\n#endif\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n11134,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Odious,2.528907649931287,2.574082176164519,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.7550683581421125,G28 ignoring Z-Probe X/Y Offsets,\"I recently installed a SKR 1.3 Board with a 3DTouch-Probe on my Creality Ender 3 Pro. \nThe probe works, G29 does its magic, but:\n\nIf i issue a plain G28, the hotend first homes X and Y like before the Z-probe. \nThe probe is now next to, not above, the bed.\nAs the next step, the printer is supposed to home the Z-axis. The probe deploys and Z starts to lower until it smashes into the bed, because the probe misses the bed (if I don't stop it, that is).\n\nI configured X/Y offsets for the probe, but they don't seem to be honored when performing the G28 code.\n\nIf I home X/Y \"\"manually\"\" with G28 X Y, move the hotend with like G1 X45 Y10, then home Z with G28 Z it works fine.\n\nWhat did I miss? Is this intended behaviour & the user has to take care never to issue a plain G28?!\n\",Mayoogh Girish,\"Use Z Safe Homing to avoid homing with a Z probe outside the bed area\n\nAccording to Marlin firmware with this feature enabled:\n\n\nAllow Z homing only after X and Y homing AND stepper drivers still\nenabled.\nIf stepper drivers time out, it will need X and Y homing again before Z homing.\nMove the Z probe (or nozzle) to a defined XY point before Z Homing when homing all axes (G28).\nPrevent Z homing when the Z probe is outside the bed area.\n\n\nTo Enable Z SAFE HOMING, In the configuration.h file search (Ctrl+F) for #define Z_SAFE_HOMING. By default, it will be disabled to enable it just uncomment \nthe line\n\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11145,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ollie,1.726248027126092,2.8977288498929825,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Anet A8 Clone LCD not working after flash,\"My Alfawise EX8 (Anet A8 Clone) had an issue, so I flashed the firmware provided on the GearBest page. After the flash the LCD is no longer doing anything and I can't really identify the LCD to confirm whether the correct one is selected in configuration.h \n\nCurrently the firmware had 'Mini VIKI' selected, but I'm not confident it works.\n\nI cannot see anything on the screen, but I can still turn the dial and click things to make it do stuff.\n\n\n\n\n\nI really hope somebody can help!\n\",0scar,\"According to the link to the fork of Marlin you need to be sure that a bootloader is present before flashing, see pins_MELZI_WYH.h:\n\n\n/**\n * Melzi (WYH) pin assignments\n *\n * The WYH-128 board needs a bootloader installed before Marlin can be uploaded.\n * If you don't have a chip programmer you can use a spare Arduino plus a few\n * electronic components to write the bootloader.\n *\n * See http://www.instructables.com/id/Burn-Arduino-Bootloader-with-Arduino-MEGA/\n */\n\n\nFrom this same pins layout file you can find hints to the usage of the REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER display:\n\n\n// For the stock M18 use the REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER\n// option for the display in Configuration.h\n\n\nMaybe you can use that one instead of the \"\"Mini VIKI\"\". Though, an internet search, does hint to the \"\"Mini VIKI\"\" being the correct display for this printer, but it does look different from other Mini VIKI displays.\n\nNote that in the Configuration.h, by default this display is not enabled as can be seen:\n\n\n// RepRapDiscount FULL GRAPHIC Smart Controller\n// http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Full_Graphic_Smart_Controller\n//\n//#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n11148,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,apesa,1.0891412423578797,2.9728043627528558,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,3D printing overhangs that are over .200 in,\"I am new to 3D printing but have been in CNC Machining for a few years. I have a part I am trying to print that is a cylinder 1.000 in. in diameter and has a .200 in overhang starting at 1.300 in. In other words I am printing a 1.300 in. cylinder that is 1.500 in. tall that at 1.300 in. its diameter increases by .200 in. \n\nWhen I first printed the part the overhang had sunk or fallen out. Not by much and is still usable but made a crappy finish. What would I need to do in order to have the overhang not drop as the base layer extended outward .200 in. at 1.300 in.?\n\nI tried slowing the feed rate but that was worse. I also lowered the temp to 195 °C.\n\nI am using a Monoprice Select Mini running at 200 °C and a 1.0 Speed (Not really sure what that feed rate is in terms of mm/s). Based on what I've seen so far I would increase the speed and keep the temp at 200 °C.\n\n\n\nAny suggestions, I hope I have explained my problem well enough.\n\",Trish,\"The world of 3D Printers usually uses the metric system, especially in nozzle sizes. 0.2 inches are therefore better referred to as 5 mm, which is a considerable amount: that's 11 to 13 perimeters from a 0.4 mm nozzle, depending on extrusion width (0.46 and 0.4 mm respectively). Furthermore, the bore of the item isn't supported either, it is bridging.\n\nTo print overhangs and bridging without sagging, one should activate the generation of support material in the slicer.\n\nGenerally speaking, PLA (judging from the print temperature) doesn't need to be printed with a raft and would be better served with a brim for bed adhesion, unless you have a perforated bed. If you have to print in the shown orientation, then you should activate support generation in your slicer.\n\nFor this part, however, there is a better solution: it is of very simple geometry and it doesn't have to be printed as shown but equally could be printed \"\"upside-down\"\" by being rotated around the X-Axis by 180° in the slicer. This has two benefits: it removes all unsupported overhangs an avoids support structure, making the wasted material pretty much nonexistent.\n\nI strongly recommend taking a look at my 3D Design Primer and the excellent question on How to decide print orientation? and then delve into further reading: \n\n\nHow to print an overhanging arc\nHow can I improve the overhang angles my printer can successfully print?\nIs there any setting that could allow me to print this overhang without support?\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n11148,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,apesa,1.0891412423578797,2.9728043627528558,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,1.3276579603156529,3D printing overhangs that are over .200 in,\"I am new to 3D printing but have been in CNC Machining for a few years. I have a part I am trying to print that is a cylinder 1.000 in. in diameter and has a .200 in overhang starting at 1.300 in. In other words I am printing a 1.300 in. cylinder that is 1.500 in. tall that at 1.300 in. its diameter increases by .200 in. \n\nWhen I first printed the part the overhang had sunk or fallen out. Not by much and is still usable but made a crappy finish. What would I need to do in order to have the overhang not drop as the base layer extended outward .200 in. at 1.300 in.?\n\nI tried slowing the feed rate but that was worse. I also lowered the temp to 195 °C.\n\nI am using a Monoprice Select Mini running at 200 °C and a 1.0 Speed (Not really sure what that feed rate is in terms of mm/s). Based on what I've seen so far I would increase the speed and keep the temp at 200 °C.\n\n\n\nAny suggestions, I hope I have explained my problem well enough.\n\",Peter,\"It appears that your part could be printable upside down. If possible, I'd highly recommend this, as it mostly avoids supports all together.\n\",0.0,0.0\n11153,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,1.21 gigawatts,3.267423727073639,3.4245901840942934,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,3.206343760378365,Is it possible with current 3D printers to print a sound trace?,\"Is it possible with the accuracy of current 3D printers to print a sound trace? \n\nOn a vinyl record the grooves in the record are an encoded sound. Is something like this doable with 3D printers? \n\nIf Vinyl-like isn't possible, could a sound be printed at desktop scale? I mean printing the waves out that if you ran your finger along it it would reproduce the encoded sound? Examples would be Rumble Strips, the Musical Roads or highway rumble strips.\n\",Nathaniel,\"I think this is just about doable. In this answer, I will assume you want to produce a \"\"rumble strip\"\" style of object that will reproduce a recording of human speech. I'll assume you don't care about sound quality, you just want the words to be intelligible.\n\nThe main things to consider are the printer's resolution, the size of the object to be printed, and the sample rate. Together, these factors determine the length of the sound, and the rate at which you need to move along it to reproduce the sound.\n\nLet's start with sample rate. A CD has a sample rate of 44100 samples per second (Hz), but that might be a bit ambitious. Telephones use a lower sample rate of 8000, and it says here that speech is still intelligible at a sample rate of 2500 Hz. Let's go with this rate.\n\nNow let's consider the resolution of the printer. A typical nozzle size is 0.2mm, which probably limits the resolution to around that size, though you can probably do better with some care, and I imagine people in this community will be able to help with that. I am guessing that you would want to print the object horizontally, so you're dealing with xy resolution instead of z resolution. (Note that resin 3d printers have much better resolutions, so they might be ideal for this task, despite their smaller print volumes.) Let's start by assuming 0.2mm is our resolution, since this should be easy to achieve with any printer. \n\nThis means that every sample in the sound file takes up about 0.2mm. Let's say we have one second of speech - that's long enough to say \"\"Hello!\"\", for example - at 2500 Hz. That means we have 2500 samples. 2500 * 0.2mm = 500mm, so your rumble strip will be about 1/2 meter long. That's unlikely to fit on your print bed, but you can print it in sections and stick them together - you can probably print them all at the same time. You could even curl it round into a spiral, making it even more like a vinyl record.\n\nThen all you have to do is take a rigid object like a guitar pick and slide it along the strip at the right speed, so that it takes about 1 second. Then you should hear the sound played back. Attaching a resonator to the pick or the strip should increase the volume.\n\nIncreasing the resolution will decrease the length of the strip, or allow you to play a longer sound for the same length of strip, or increase the sample rate. E.g. if you can get a resolution of 0.1mm then you could play a 2 second sound instead, using the same 0.5m length of rumble strip.\n\nIn principle, creating the object is not hard, but I don't know any software that can do it out of the box. You just need to make the surface height correspond to the waveform. If I was doing this I would probably write a Python script to turn the wave file into a list of numbers, then paste those into in OpenSCAD's polygon function, which I would then extrude to make the object. But others might know an easier way.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n11153,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,1.21 gigawatts,3.267423727073639,3.4245901840942934,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,3.548335113978322,3.206343760378365,Is it possible with current 3D printers to print a sound trace?,\"Is it possible with the accuracy of current 3D printers to print a sound trace? \n\nOn a vinyl record the grooves in the record are an encoded sound. Is something like this doable with 3D printers? \n\nIf Vinyl-like isn't possible, could a sound be printed at desktop scale? I mean printing the waves out that if you ran your finger along it it would reproduce the encoded sound? Examples would be Rumble Strips, the Musical Roads or highway rumble strips.\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"Here's an alternative which takes advantage of the relatively (!!) high-precision layer capability of the 3D printer: Make a lithopane strip and use an optical sensor to reproduce the sound. \n\nThis is (was) done to encode the soundtrack for movies alongside the image frames in the film strip (reel). Basically the thickness of the print at a given location modulates the optical throughput and thus the signal strength out of the photodetector. \n\nNote that, as with movie reels, you will need a lot of real estate to record a decent amount of audio. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n11155,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ethan Manzi,2.1782824847157594,2.1749897553859707,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,XYZPrinting Premium Metallic PLA Conductivity,\"I have a XYZPrinting Da Vinci Mini W+ that I got for last Christmas. I am looking at the filaments available for it, since the included PLA is running 'low' (according to it) at 21 metres remaining. The one filament type that interested me the most is the Premium Metallic PLA. My question, that the website doesn't seem to answer, is how conductive is this material? Does it have any conductivity that would make it realistic to use to carry a current from something like an Arduino or Raspberry Pi, or is it too insulated, meant to only look metal, to act as a conductor?\n\nWhy I ask (Background - Not as Important)\nI ask this, because of an idea I had. Printing a pretty low quality PCB type circuit. Instead of being forced to keep my circuits on breadboards with wires jumping from here and there, I would take a conductive layer and sandwich is between to insulating layers. If I wanted two trace layers, I'd do the following pattern (with I being insulating and C conductive) \"\"ICICI\"\". Since I only can print in one filament type at a time, I'd print each layer in the thinnest thickness (1 micron, I believe), and have to fuse them together. I could do this in a few ways, using glue of some sort, or a hand-help filament pen to fuse the layers from the outside (the conductive layers would be slightly smaller, of course).\n\",Trish,\"Most PLAs are non-conductive: they contain little to no metal in comparison to plastic and can't make a conductive path. Even metallic PLA does not contain enough metal to be conductive.\n\nThere are some rare filaments that are conductive, they are sold as conductive PLA. I have yet to encounter a non-black conductive PLA.\n\nOne filament I suspect to be possibly conductive but have no hard evidence is made by The Vitual Foundry and contains about 80% metal. It is intended to be treated in the oven to burn out the plastic part, leaving behind a somewhat pure metal structure, but might be conductive without this process already. I have no experience with this and all my exposure to it was this answer. It should be highly abrasive though.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n11162,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Luke,2.1782824847157594,2.115441093325155,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Makerbot Replciator 2x - restarts after heating,\"Really need some help. Let me run you through as much as possible.\nI have a replicator 2x. Ive owned this for around 2 weeks now (used). after some teething issues ive been printing really well all week.\n\nI left a print for the first time to run on its own and when i returned it had stopped after aprox 10% was still on and on the main menu screen.\n\nI removed the partial print and since then when I go to print or preheat it will reset near the max temps. (230 extruder and 110 platform) Individually set these all achieve desired temps, and change filament still works.\n\nI swapped the LHS extruder parts for the RHS and tried a reprint, same.\nI swapped the wiring at the board to use the LHS extruder wiring for the RHS. same.\nDisconnected the stepper motors and same issue.\nReinstalled firmware. Same\n\nIt was running the mm2x upgrade, and I was supplied with the original extruder and thermocouples, spent afternoon swapping and this has the same issue.\n\nBy reset, the whole unit goes dark (LCD and LED), beeps and back to main menu.\nIt works with the bed unplugged, or the extruder heater unplugged, but not with both plugged in. Heard this being called brown out.\n\nIm guessing its the mightyboard or the power pack. All lights are green on the board during running. I have a multimeter and can test the board if known values or a guide location is available.\n\nAny help would be great, pulling my hair out.\n\",Abel,\"\"\"Im guessing its the mightyboard or the power pack.\"\"\n\nRight track there.\nUsually this symptom suggests your heaters are overtaxing your power supplies.\nSince you swapped extruders already, the heating elements and sensors in those are not likely to be an issue. That leaves the bed heating element and power supply.\n\nA resistance measurement can help rule out the bed heater but since it works without the extruder, its probably not a severe issue there.\n\nIf I had to guess, I'd say power supply. If you can, rig up a meter to measure its output and cause the issue. If the voltage drops drastically in tune with your screen going dark, try to replace with a beefier (higher amperage) one.\n\",0.0,0.0\n11174,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Matt Dongworth,2.1782824847157594,2.8673070466884,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,CR-10S Pro pausing and starting again,\"I found this question, CR-10 randomly pauses for a few seconds, that someone asked earlier. I am experiencing the exact same thing, only on a CR-10S Pro. \n\nNone of the suggestions on that post helped. For what it's worth, I am using Ultimaker Cura 4.3. \n\nAny help would be wonderful! \n\nI made this video for someone I know from Creality. The pausing seems to happen at each new layer. But, as the layers pass like 4 layers then the pausing stops. This also happens on every print big or small. I changed nothing and it just started happening. \n\n\r\n \r\n \n\n\n\nQuoting my comment from the previous question:\n\n\n I am seemingly having the same issue only on Cura 4.3. There is no\n \"\"Maximum Z Speed\"\" anywhere on 4.3 so how can I fix this? As talked\n about above I just checked my \"\"minimum layer time\"\" and it is set to\n 10. I have also used another slicer and this same issue keeps happening it just messes up differently. I've also tried printing from\n SD card and OctoPrint. Same issue... How could this be my slicer if\n this same thing is happening on a different slicer than Cura?\n\n\",0scar,\"From your comment on the linked question you state:\n\n\n As talked about above I just checked my \"\"minimum layer time\"\" and it is set to 10\n\n\nNote that Cura's default value is 5 seconds.\n\nThis means that the print speed is lowered down to the minimum print speed to have layers that print for at least 10 seconds. When it cannot print slower (there is a minimum print speed) and the minimum layer time has not been reached yet, the print head halts until the time value is reached, then it continues. This behaviour is expected when the print area becomes small so that the time per layer drops under the 10 seconds.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n11182,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,TheEquah,4.146747269907207,5.00042849757503,0.0,2.011441651225199,4.376800063013361,4.912918248458232,Why does hairspray work as an adhesive for ABS?,\"Since I have a 3D printer, I worked primarily with printing ABS. I tried multiple methods for adhesion (various soluble glues, ABS juice) but always had the most success with hairspray on clean borosilicate glass, as long as I print with a bed temperature above 75 °C and inside an enclosure.\n\nSo I wonder, if it is known, why and based on which chemicals the hairspray method works so well? \n\",0scar,\"First of all, not all hairsprays work. The chemicals in hairspray that causes the bonding is \"\"VA/Crotonates Copolymer\"\", it is also called \"\"vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymer\"\". Most commonly known as PVA, which is also a filament used as water soluble support material. This is a synthetic polymer created from monomers. \n\nWhen heated to a certain temperature this ingredient becomes sticky, this makes the filament stick to the plate. It is the double bonded Oxygen molecule that makes this happen. This is not only present in chemicals you put onto the bed, but also the chemistry of certain bed materials. Quoting our own Ryan Carlyle from this thread, A replacement for Aquanet Hair Spray?? Wolfbite by Airwolf:\n\n\n Most of the popular build surfaces have very similar underlying chemistry. That's because they all rely on diffusion welding for adhesion. The molecular chains at the interface slightly dissolve into each other.\n \n Gluestick active ingredient - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinylpyrrolidone\n \n \n \n Aquanet and liquid PVA glue active ingredient - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinyl_acetate\n \n \n \n If you're familiar with organic chemistry, what you see here is an identical polyvinyl backbone chain, and functional groups that both have a ketone/ester double-bonded oxygen adjacent to a space-filling component. (The space-filling component probably decreases adhesion so the print can be released.) And guess what? Permanent build plate surfaces rely on the same underlying chemistry:\n \n Lexan also has exposed double-bonded oxygen on a polymer backbone: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polycarbonate\n \n \n \n Kapton also has exposed double-bonded oxygen on a polymer backbone: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kapton\n \n \n \n Acrylic also has exposed double-bonded oxygen on a polymer backbone: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poly(methyl_methacrylate)\n \n \n \n PET also has exposed double-bonded oxygen on a polymer backbone: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyethylene_terephthalate\n \n \n \n Now, if you look at some common solvents for filaments, what do you often see? Double-bonded oxygen on small molecules. Here's ethyl acetate (dissolves PLA) and acetone (dissolves ABS):\n \n \n \n These molecules are still diffusing into the filament polymer, but they're so small and mobile that they are able to completely liquefy and dissolve the plastic.\n \n Isn't chemistry great?\n\n\",3.7511513460834345,2.0769199823829045\n11186,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,rccursach,3.0576060275493275,3.282132985301826,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,PLA printings always ~0.22% larger,\"I was trying to print parts for a small CD-ROM drive based plotter based on this thing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3521286\n\nBut as tolerances are very small and need to match the existing parts, I realized that my printed parts are actually a little bigger, I made a test with a part like this:\n\n _ _\n / \\ / \\\n \\ .------------------------. ___\n | [O]________________[O] | ^\n | | | | |\n | | | | |\n | | | | |\n | | |<--- 62mm ---->| | | |\n | | | | 70mm\n | | | | |\n | | | | |\n | | | | |\n | | | | |\n _| [O]________________[O] | _v_\n / '------------------------' \\\n \\ _ / \\ _ /\n\nSide View:\n\n [X] [X]\n ___[XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX]____\n\n\n\nA squared and mouse-eared frame with two protruding 4mm cubes on each corner with inner distances of 62mm and outer of 70mm between each adjacent cubes.\n\nI discovered that, after measuring many times and averaging distances, my model printed 0.227..% larger.\n\nI've heard of shrinkage factor for ABS or Nylon, and people compensate scaling their models while slicing.\n\nBut what about PLA?\n\nIm using:\n\n\nAnet A8\nStock marlin firmware (not the Anet one)\nFlashforge natural PLA 1.75mm\n0.4mm Nozzle\n0.2mm layer height\n0.4mm line width\n210ºC extrusion temp\n60ºC Bed temp\n40mm/s print speed\nFusion 360, Cura 2.7 or 4.3 and Octoprint.\n\n\nThe printed model is pretty flat, has no curvatures or artifacts either.\n\nWould this be an error of constants on my printer a known artifact from PLA?\n\",Hacky,\"Cura has a fixed offset called \"\"horizontal expansion\"\", which can be set negatively. This way you can hardcode a -0.1mm offset for example. It worked for me where holes got too small and pegs got too thick. \n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11186,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,rccursach,3.0576060275493275,3.282132985301826,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,PLA printings always ~0.22% larger,\"I was trying to print parts for a small CD-ROM drive based plotter based on this thing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3521286\n\nBut as tolerances are very small and need to match the existing parts, I realized that my printed parts are actually a little bigger, I made a test with a part like this:\n\n _ _\n / \\ / \\\n \\ .------------------------. ___\n | [O]________________[O] | ^\n | | | | |\n | | | | |\n | | | | |\n | | |<--- 62mm ---->| | | |\n | | | | 70mm\n | | | | |\n | | | | |\n | | | | |\n | | | | |\n _| [O]________________[O] | _v_\n / '------------------------' \\\n \\ _ / \\ _ /\n\nSide View:\n\n [X] [X]\n ___[XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX]____\n\n\n\nA squared and mouse-eared frame with two protruding 4mm cubes on each corner with inner distances of 62mm and outer of 70mm between each adjacent cubes.\n\nI discovered that, after measuring many times and averaging distances, my model printed 0.227..% larger.\n\nI've heard of shrinkage factor for ABS or Nylon, and people compensate scaling their models while slicing.\n\nBut what about PLA?\n\nIm using:\n\n\nAnet A8\nStock marlin firmware (not the Anet one)\nFlashforge natural PLA 1.75mm\n0.4mm Nozzle\n0.2mm layer height\n0.4mm line width\n210ºC extrusion temp\n60ºC Bed temp\n40mm/s print speed\nFusion 360, Cura 2.7 or 4.3 and Octoprint.\n\n\nThe printed model is pretty flat, has no curvatures or artifacts either.\n\nWould this be an error of constants on my printer a known artifact from PLA?\n\",Trish,\"You are not taking into account die swell.\n\nWhen printing with a 3D printer hot plastic is forced through a nozzle, which leads to the expansion of the material. The result is, that with 0.4 mm nozzle and 0.4 mm intended line width, the material will actually deposit some fraction of a millimeter wider. In your test case, that is 0.22%. If you'd print a double-sized test piece, I expect 0.11%, and in case of a half-sized 0.44% - in other words, it is a static offset.\n\nBecause of this, it is usually better to demand wider lines than the nozzle is, forcing the die swell effect to become negligible in the wider line. I managed this with about 110% of the nozzle width on my machines.\n\nFurther Reading: Why is it conventional to set line width > nozzle diameter?\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n11187,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,JPeroutek,0.0,2.6908545064521765,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Sealant to increase Water-Resistance of SLS print,\"We are attempting to print some single-use prototypes using an SLS printer. The parts must be somewhat water-resistant for short-term usage, but do not have to been waterproof entirely. \n\nAccording to this page, Post processing for SLS printed parts - Water tightness, any silicone type or vinyl-acrylate sealant should work well, but I was hoping that the Stack users here might have some specific suggestions. \n\nDoes anybody have specific recommendations for sealing SLS prints?\n\",Trish,\"SLS prints from nylon are somewhat porous. This means, that they will let a stabilizer soak into the outer surface to some degree.\n\nWhat kind of stabilizer is needed is depending somewhat on the properties you want, but generally I believe these might be useable depending on the viscosity:\n\n\n2-component resins could be used, but they are usually very viscous. Their viscosity however is dependent on the exact type and mixture and could be altered by temperature.\n1-component (air-hardening) resins or resin lacquers can be thinned to achieve a solution into which the item is then dunked and dripped off. How much thinner is adviseable depends on the exact material\nNitrocellulose lacquer-like it is used in guitar building is extremely fluid and could be used for treatment via dunking.\nPU lacquer could be used too.\n\n\",0.0,0.0\n11191,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,xzcvczx,2.8153892694839717,2.6493643560602123,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Issue on 2 corners but not the other 2,\"I am printing using an Ender3 Pro with eSUN PLA+ 215/45 and I am getting this issue on two corners, the other two corners look fine.\n\nAny idea on what can be causing this?\n\nThe bad corners\n\n\n\nThe good corners\n\n\n\",Abel,\"Looks like it treated those corners a bit differently in the slice routine. Normally something like this different treatment would be too slight to matter, but (probably due to the slight overhang?) it appears to have caused some layers to not adhere to the bottom ones and get pulled along to a different shape (red line in image). (Be sure to check some general layer adhesion/overhang topics too.)\n\nI'd try increasing the infill there (and using honeycomb style infill) or even using a cad software to hollow the interior to essentially a desired infill before slicing if the current infill is important elsewhere.\n\nMoving slower, Increasing the temperature a bit, and/or extruding more material per line and layer if the layer adhesion is due to the slight overhang (although it looks pretty small).\n\",0.0,0.0\n11193,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Tim Li,2.1782824847157594,2.7548616721246675,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Ender 3 Power Problem: Not starting up,\"I have a Creality Ender 3, I've had it for just under 2 years and during a print one morning it suddenly stopped and powered itself off. After checking the fuse and other electronic components it still didn't power on. I purchased a new switch as I thought the problem was there but after replacing it is still did not turn on.\n\nThe printer has been working fine and there were no visible or audible anomalies. I urgently need this to be fixed.\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\",Tim Li,\"@trish Thankyou for your help.\n\nI did purchased the new power supply and everything works fine now.\n\",0.0,2.0769199823829045\n11194,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Forenkazan,2.528907649931287,2.4894835185571664,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,The part printed correctly except few layers,\"As you can see from the picture, the part is good except some missing layers near the bottom. I have tried to search for this problem but nothing similar appeared. So, what might be the cause and what is the name for this problem?\n\n\n\n\nPrinter: Ender3, new.\nSlicer: Cura\nNozzle: 0.4 mm\nTemperature: \n\n\n200 °C nozzle\n50 °C bed\n\nMaterial: PLA\nPrint speed: 50 mm/s\n\n\",Trish,\"This looks like either the nozzle had been clogged for some layers and it resolved itself or the g-code contained incorrect instructions.\n\nI suggest altering your print settings slightly and reslicing, then just printing it again. To get more accuracy on the prints, I suggest a line width of 0.45 mm.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11199,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Vebjorn,2.1782824847157594,3.0563687480099424,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Technique for removing support from Ultimaker 2+?,\"I have made some prints with the Ultimaker 2+ and Ultimaker 2 Extended+. The prints are in PLA. For slicing, I use Cura and I check the support checkbox (haven't gone to advanced settings to adjust support yet). I can clearly see that there is a little space between the support and the print. The supports often look like long pillars and such. \n\nMy question then is: \"\"What is the best technique for removing the support?\"\". Is it to use a knife, pliers or perhaps PLA-water? Is it possible to use PLA-water to remove support when printed with Ulitmaker 2+ or is that just the Ultimaker 3? What type of technique would give a good looking print?\n\nUltimaker 3 has support filament that's water-soluble. Is there something similar for Ultimaker 2+? \n\",Trish,\"PLA and ABS are hard plastics. They are not water-soluble. If you print with these materials, just snap printed support materials off and clean the interface layer with a knife and sanding.\n\nTo remove the support, it is best to use strong tweezers or a pair of pliers to grip and then apply some force. Generally, I use needle pliers, but occasionally I also use snippets to cut up the support towers into more manageable chunks and keep the printed part safer. It can help to remove it in pieces and score the breaking lines.\n\nAs PLA is brittle, I prefer to break away from the object and not pull.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11199,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Vebjorn,2.1782824847157594,3.0563687480099424,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,Technique for removing support from Ultimaker 2+?,\"I have made some prints with the Ultimaker 2+ and Ultimaker 2 Extended+. The prints are in PLA. For slicing, I use Cura and I check the support checkbox (haven't gone to advanced settings to adjust support yet). I can clearly see that there is a little space between the support and the print. The supports often look like long pillars and such. \n\nMy question then is: \"\"What is the best technique for removing the support?\"\". Is it to use a knife, pliers or perhaps PLA-water? Is it possible to use PLA-water to remove support when printed with Ulitmaker 2+ or is that just the Ultimaker 3? What type of technique would give a good looking print?\n\nUltimaker 3 has support filament that's water-soluble. Is there something similar for Ultimaker 2+? \n\",0scar,\"The Ultimaker 2+ is a single extruder 3D printer. Without changing the PLA spool and PVA spool continuously during the print you practically cannot make water soluble supports on the Ultimaker 2+ which can be done on the Ultimaker 3. Note that PVA (from experience) is strange material to print, the filament is very hygroscopic and will form bubbles during printing when moist. Also, PVA is prone to clog the nozzle (it cooks easily) it therefore has its own printer core (nozzle assembly) on the Ultimaker 3 (still it clogs easily). Furthermore, it takes a while to dissolve in water.\n\nIf you have a single extruder and nozzle, your best option is to use the same material for support, but modify the support settings as such that it can be easily removed. E.g. on thin layer heights (0.1 mm) I usually increase the gap between support and product over the default value, see this answer.\n\nOn dual extruder printers, e.g. on the Ultimaker 3 and S5, my colleagues have better experience using Ultimaker Breakaway filament rather than using PVA. As with the PLA supports, you need to \"\"break them away\"\" from the actual product; I use a Leatherman Charge or FREE P4 as these tools have fine pointed pliers. Note that there are removal tools available that are best described as soldering irons that can aid in the removal of support structures:\n\n\n\nNote that I have mixed feelings about this product; it is hard to neatly remove supports using these small soldering irons, but it sometimes works.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n11210,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Cobactan,2.528907649931287,2.9268557087492164,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,My DIY printer only boots when all my endstops are triggered. Why is that?,\"Recycling a Robin Nano board to build a 3D printer using an old computer PSU (300 W), it only boots on when I have no endstops pugged in at all or if I trigger all the ones I have plugged. At the moment I release them the screen goes off (but the fan of the PSU is still on). Does anyone have any clue about what's going on ?\n\",r_ahlskog,\"From your fault description of printer logic board losing power when endstops are released it sounds to me like those endstops are shorting VCC to GND when not pressed. That the fault also goes away when the endstops are unplugged reinforces this.\n\nI guess the logic board has its own protected regulator because otherwise you would be shorting out the power supply and that would also turn itself off after likely causing a lot of damage to the logic board.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n11210,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Cobactan,2.528907649931287,2.9268557087492164,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,My DIY printer only boots when all my endstops are triggered. Why is that?,\"Recycling a Robin Nano board to build a 3D printer using an old computer PSU (300 W), it only boots on when I have no endstops pugged in at all or if I trigger all the ones I have plugged. At the moment I release them the screen goes off (but the fan of the PSU is still on). Does anyone have any clue about what's going on ?\n\",Cobactan,\"It ended up I had like super cheap endstops that were actually shorting VCC to GND, as suspected by r_ahlskog. Just bought other ones and now it's working fine.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11415,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Cobactan,1.726248027126092,2.3718730033712077,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Using stepper motors with integrated controllers,\"I just scavenged stepper motors from an old laser printer. These have integrated controllers. I'd like to use them without dismantling the controllers. I currently have 4, 6 and 9 wires stepper motors. Any help would be reatly appreciated :) Thanks !\n\",cmm,\"Many of the motors that look like stepper motors in laser printers are actually three-phase brush-less DC motors. These look like stepper motors, but are intended to be used differently, controlled differently, and serve a different function. Like stepper motors, they have a permanent magnet rotor surrounded by coils of wire.\n\nThey typically are used in applications that require a definite rotation speed, rather than a definite position -- velocity rather than location. They create feedback to their controlling board via an encoder.\n\nDifferences include having a smaller number of poles, and possibly having three coils rather than two. I suspect that the magnetic field profiles of the poles may also be different, since the primary design purpose is not to sharply define the restoring torque curve for a small deviation of the rotor from a rotational position.\n\nIf these are the type of motors you have in hand, you won't find them very useful for a 3D printer motion control system. They are great for any form of continuous movement where position isn't critical -- maybe wheel motors for robots or for peristaltic pumps on your automated drink mixer.\n\nYou may ask on what experience I speak. I have done tear-down analysis of several laser printers by different manufacturers.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n11212,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,stenci,2.528907649931287,3.178518415635008,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How do I find the best settings for a resin?,\"I have an Epax X1, I have just purchased the 2nd and 3rd bottle of resin, but I don't know what are the best settings.\n\nWhat is the best way to find the best settings for a new resin?\n\nIs it possible to print a calibration object that starts with some settings and changes as it goes? For example starts with 12 seconds and decreases half second every 5 mm?\n\nEDIT\n\nThe 2 resins I am dealing with right now are Nova3D and Elegoo. Any help with those two resins would help right now, but I would love to have a more generic answer that would allow me to explore and troubleshoot any resin without asking every time.\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"Since every printer is slightly different (light intensity, for example), you probably want to run one of those 12-spot test patterns where each \"\"spot\"\" gets a different exposure time, then see what time works best. \n\nI found a more general test pattern at Amerilabs Calibration File which may be useful. Not to mention a zillion other test patterns \n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n11212,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,stenci,2.528907649931287,3.178518415635008,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,How do I find the best settings for a resin?,\"I have an Epax X1, I have just purchased the 2nd and 3rd bottle of resin, but I don't know what are the best settings.\n\nWhat is the best way to find the best settings for a new resin?\n\nIs it possible to print a calibration object that starts with some settings and changes as it goes? For example starts with 12 seconds and decreases half second every 5 mm?\n\nEDIT\n\nThe 2 resins I am dealing with right now are Nova3D and Elegoo. Any help with those two resins would help right now, but I would love to have a more generic answer that would allow me to explore and troubleshoot any resin without asking every time.\n\",stenci,\"This test is not just a verification solid, is a program that tries different exposures and shows them all side by side: https://github.com/altLab/photon-resin-calibration\n\nThe test doesn't move slower and slower, but it does something equivalent: keeps the plate in the same position while changing the bitmap.\n\nEDIT\n\nI tried the test, and I'm not happy about it. I tested the same black resin with the 0.02 and 0.05 layer thicknesses, and according to the tests I should use 8 seconds with the 0.02 and 6 seconds with the 0.05. This result goes against anything I heard about relation between layer thickness and exposure time. \n\nI also read in an issue in the repository that the test is not reliable with clear resins. My 2 tests are so thin that my black resin is transparent. I don't know if this is a factor, it just doesn't feel right. \n\nI will keep searching for a better test and update this post if I find one. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n11221,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,stenci,1.0891412423578797,2.729972460763979,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Is it safe to use photon-resin-calibration for Epax printer?,\"This repository contains a calibration test for DLP printers.\n\nAs its file Instructions.txt says, it is an ANYCUBIC RESIN EXPOSURE FINDER by X3msnake.\n\nAre all the files, both .photon and .gcode, compatible with the Epax X1 printer?\n\",stenci,\"Yes, it seems to be.\n\nI tried the test and it worked well.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11218,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Johnny,2.8153892694839717,3.032353024813671,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,How does slipping Bowden tube affect retraction or does it at all?,\"I have an Ender 3 Pro with upgraded Bowden capricorn tube. The tube will move approximately 1-2 mm during normal operation, though it will not come out of the coupler at all. I have read that the movement if unchanging (constant movement of 1-2 mm) can be compensated for with settings adjustment to avoid retraction issues such that it will extrude or retract \"\"that much less\"\"... I do not understand how this is possible...\n\nIm confused by comments that a slipping Bowden tube on the extruder side only, say by up to 2 mm, is \"\"lost retraction\"\"... I have this problem too with the Bowden tube only at the extruder end, not the hotend, and wonder if it is really an issue at all. Here's why...\n\nThe filament is in direct contact with the gear and wheel of the extruder. If the Bowden tube is only moving in/out of the extruder end of the coupler, there are no \"\"gaps\"\" being created to cause leakage of the filament, etc on the hot end...As the extruder is either pushing or retracting, the filament inside the tube is still moving as much as intended regardless of the amount of play of the Bowden tube... no? therefore, retracting will not be affected at all, nor would the extruding process. Am I wrong and if so, can someone explain to me how this would be?\n\nNote, I can see that this movement may cause under-extrusion on the feeding side process, as the machine is expecting say, 0.5 mm extrusion, but then has to compensate (unknowingly) for the slipping out tube during the \"\"push\"\", so not enough gets \"\"out\"\", but should not affect the retraction amount as the filament is still being pulled directly from the gears/roller. \n\nAm I wrong and if so, can someone explain to me how this would affect the retraction along with the under-extrusion?\n\",R..,\"The slipping does result in lost retraction distance. It does not result in underextrusion, lost material (except possibly via having insufficient retraction after the reduction), or anything like that.\n\nIf your retraction is set to 6 mm, but the bowden pulls 2 mm into the coupler when you retract, those first 2 mm of filament motion do not pull the filament out of the hotend at all. The position of the filament relative to the tube (and thus relative to the nozzle) remains constant. After the tube can be pulled back no further into the coupler, the remaining retraction pulls the filament back through the bowden tube, for 4 mm of retraction at the hotend/nozzle.\n\nWhen unretracting, the reverse happens. The first 2 mm of extruder motion push the bowden tube out of the coupler, and don't move the filament relative to the tube (or the hotend). After that the next 4 mm push the filament through the tube and back to the nozzle orifice.\n\nThe result is the filament ending up back exactly where it started, but having backed out only 4 mm from the nozzle, not the requested 6 mm.\n\nThese numbers are just examples but probably about right. If you put the plastic clip on the pneumatic coupler, the slipping should stop, but you can also just increase retraction if the amount after the loss to slipping is not sufficient.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n11228,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,zipzit,3.0576060275493275,3.3206222047196907,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,What determines print start location on the build plate?,\"I'm working with an older MakerBot Replicator clone, actually a Flashforge Creator 1, with original Creator firmware.\n\n\nI'm able to design objects, using Solidworks, and exporting the file as xxx.stl (ascii) \nThen I use Slic3r to generate tool paths with output as xxx.gcode \nfinally, I use GPX UI to generate a xxx.x3g file. \n\n\nI don't understand where on the build plate the print starts. Is that controlled by the 3d printer's firmware values, or something else in the chain from .stl --> .gcode --> x3g ?? Right now my prints start in the corner nearest 0,0.0, instead of in the middle of the build plate. \n\nHow do I control where to place the 3d print on the build plate?\n\nedit: Apologies for the delay. As a result of the answers posted here, I did a whole bunch more testing. The initial response from @mick, seems to indicate that what you see in the Slicer preview is what you'll see on the print bed. That makes sense, but that is definitely not what I'm seeing. I definitely don't see anywhere anything that remotely looks like a check the box [] center. Here's what I do see:\n\nWhen I drop the object into Slic3r, it goes to middle of build plate. \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nUnfortunately here's what gets printed. \n\nAttempt #1, off in space\n\n\n\nAttempt #2, Right Hand Margin\n\n\n\nAttempt #3, Near the front.\n\n\n\nI tried moving the print head to center of build plate, thinking that might be a logical start point. No go. Print start moves head to home (rear right corner of print bed) then after elements heat up to temp, it seems to select a random spot on the build plate to start. I never touched the .x3g file between these attempts. So I'm right back to where I started, per the title of this posting \"\"What determines print start location on the build plate?\"\"\n\",Trish,\"STL files contain an origin. However, this is totally ignored when generating G-code, the slicer chooses the origin based on settings. \n\nG-code itself is a string of commands. One of these G28 calls for the origin of the machine to be found by moving mechanically to this position. Usually, it is all formatted to take this or the power-up position as 0 and then moves relative to that. It always moves in reference to the last position, or this 0 (absolute mode).\n\n.x3d is an XML type of file that describes a 3D model. It reformats G-code to be read by different types of machines. It too only moves with reference to the last position, taking the position on powerup as 0 to move against unless homed.\n\nConvention\n\nThe convention for CNC is, that the front-top-left corner of the workpiece is to be $\\{0;0;0\\}$ as the origin for the right-hand-rule. CNC then usually operates in a purely positive XY area and only works in negative Z, which is fitting for cutting. It doesn't preclude negative areas as to achieve cuts, going into the negative room is sometimes mandatory.\n\nTaking this convention to 3D printing puts the front-left(-bottom) corner of the build plate (volume) to be the origin, because of the right-hand rule: The coordinate room is then strictly positive in XYZ (right as X, back for Y, up for Z), all absolute, strictly positive coordinates within the positive build volume can be moved to. However, instead of allowing negative coordinates, 3D printing does not allow any coordinates outside of the build volume that is ranged from 0 to the maxima set in the firmware.\n\nThis convention fails for Delta printers, which pretty much extrapolate the heights of the individual steppers via trigonometric calculations from cylinder coordinates $\\{ r ; \\phi ; z\\}$ - radius, an angle of 0° to 360° and the Z-coordinate. In this coordinate room, math gets much easier putting 0 into the center of the build plate, which is circular; The transformation to cartesian coordinates is $\\{ r \\cos(\\phi) ; r\\sin(\\phi) ; z\\}$; the inverse transformation from cartesian to cylinder coordinates is somewhat more complex and uses case differentiation..\n\nError\n\nLet's say the build plate has dimensions $a$ and $b$ and the corner with the green clip is $\\{0;0;0\\}$. The item is sliced to the position $\\{a/2 ; b/2\\}$ of the bed. It appears at $\\{a ; b/2\\}$ and $\\{a/2 ; b\\}$ respectively. This hints that the center of the bed is somehow taken as one of the coordinates.\n\nIf the corner without the clip is assumed as $\\{0;0;0\\}$, then X should be to the right, Y to the front following the right-hand-rule. To see if the coordinates might be skewed, the following command snippet would be useful. Please execute them one by one.\n\nG28 ; home\nG1 Z5 ; lift off the bed 5 mm to prevent accidental collisions\nG1 X50 F500 ; move 50 mm to positive X - in case of back-right corner home this is to the LEFT\nG1 Y50 F500 ; move to what ends up 50 50 5 - in case of back-right corner home this is to the FRONT\n\n\nFixing\n\nThe problem is probably not the slicer but most likely the firmware defining either the movement axis or the home wrong (either the wrong corner is chosen or the movement axis are defined incorrectly) on the printer. It seems to be totally messed up and should be reflashed with a fresh copy.\n\nIt would be a good chance to learn by taking a Blanco variant of marlin and adjusting it to the own printer by chucking in the dimensions into configuration.h and starting from there.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n11228,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,zipzit,3.0576060275493275,3.3206222047196907,0.0,4.670422881206417,3.0574377365420307,2.6553159206313057,What determines print start location on the build plate?,\"I'm working with an older MakerBot Replicator clone, actually a Flashforge Creator 1, with original Creator firmware.\n\n\nI'm able to design objects, using Solidworks, and exporting the file as xxx.stl (ascii) \nThen I use Slic3r to generate tool paths with output as xxx.gcode \nfinally, I use GPX UI to generate a xxx.x3g file. \n\n\nI don't understand where on the build plate the print starts. Is that controlled by the 3d printer's firmware values, or something else in the chain from .stl --> .gcode --> x3g ?? Right now my prints start in the corner nearest 0,0.0, instead of in the middle of the build plate. \n\nHow do I control where to place the 3d print on the build plate?\n\nedit: Apologies for the delay. As a result of the answers posted here, I did a whole bunch more testing. The initial response from @mick, seems to indicate that what you see in the Slicer preview is what you'll see on the print bed. That makes sense, but that is definitely not what I'm seeing. I definitely don't see anywhere anything that remotely looks like a check the box [] center. Here's what I do see:\n\nWhen I drop the object into Slic3r, it goes to middle of build plate. \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nUnfortunately here's what gets printed. \n\nAttempt #1, off in space\n\n\n\nAttempt #2, Right Hand Margin\n\n\n\nAttempt #3, Near the front.\n\n\n\nI tried moving the print head to center of build plate, thinking that might be a logical start point. No go. Print start moves head to home (rear right corner of print bed) then after elements heat up to temp, it seems to select a random spot on the build plate to start. I never touched the .x3g file between these attempts. So I'm right back to where I started, per the title of this posting \"\"What determines print start location on the build plate?\"\"\n\",zipzit,\"So it turns out there are elements from each of the previous answers that make sense here, but its not a clear picture. I've spent a whole lot of time trying to make sense of this. I also upgraded my firmware to Sailfish. \n\nFor the MakerBot Replicator (or FastForge Creator) family of 3d printers, the origin of the build plate is NOT at any of the corners, its right in the center of the build plate. Reference here. \n\n\n 4.1 Home Offsets:\n By convention, the center of the build platform is assumed to be the point (0,0,0) in XYZ space. The X, Y, and Z home offsets tell the printer the location of the X, Y, and Z endstops in relation to the build platform’s center.\n\n\nLooks like this:\n\n\n\nAnd it would appear that most other 3D printers are not using this convention. Sigh. From my testing, the main control of print location is within the G-Code generated by the slicer. The tool I was using, Slic3r does give one a chance to correct that\nadjustment. You have to go to top menu Settings --> Printer Settings --> Size and Coordinates (Bed Shape) --> Set to get a nice popup visual tool. See below.\n\nUnfortunately the default setting is accurate for the overall bed size, but is a fail for the origin location on the bed. The default origin is set at 0,0, in the corner. Ouch. Big ouch. The origin needs to be located right in the center of the build plate (to be consistent with the firmware controlling the print for this family of printers). It should look like this:\n\n\n\nNote, when you tell the printer to go to 'home' it doesn't go to origin (0,0,0) it goes to the endstops. \n\n G68 X0 Y0 F500 ; Perform Homing Routine\n\n\nSo as long as you understand the quirks of these printers things will work out. You have to ensure offsets are set accurately in firmware config files. (Replicator / Sailfish) And you have to indicate the correct center location to the slicer program. I will say the advice given here was of some help in understanding this. Many thanks. I'm posting here in case others using the Replicator or FastForge Creator series of printers is having troubles centering their prints on the build plate. \n\nAdditional info for anybody using a MakerBot Replicator or Flashforge Creator series printer with Slic3r. I wanted to add my custom G-code stuff. The default Slic3r stuff definitely did not work. \n\nPrinter Settings --> Custom G-Code --> Start G-Code\n\nM103 ; Turn all extruders off, Extruder Retraction\nG21 ; set units to mm\nG90 ; Use absolute coordinates\n(**** begin homing ****)\nG162 X Y F2500 ; home XY axes to maximum stops\nG161 Z F1100 ; home Z axis to minimum stop\nG92 Z-5 ; Set Position Z =-5mm\nG1 Z0.0 ; move Z to \"\"0\"\"\nG161 Z F100 ; home Z axis to minimum stop slowly\nM132 X Y Z A B ; Recall stored home offsets for XYZAB axis\n ; Loads the axis offset of the current home position from the EEPROM and waits for the buffer to empty.\nG90 ; Use absolute coordinates\nG1 X0 Y0 Z50 F3300.0 ; move to waiting position near center of build plate\n\n\nPrinter Settings --> Custom G-Code --> End G-Code\n\nM109 S0 T0 ; Cool down the build platform\nM104 S0 T0 ; Cool down the Right Extruder\nM104 S0 T1 ; Cool down the Left Extruder\nM73 P100 ; End build progress\nG0 Z150 ; Send Z axis to bottom of machine\nM18 ; Disable steppers\nG162 X Y F2500 ; Home XY endstops\nM18 ; Disable stepper motors\nM70 P30 ; We <3 Making Things! Yipee, you made it...\n; display message above for 30 seconds\nM72 P1 ; Play Ta-Da song\n\n\nOne other thing I do with Slic3r. I print a single loop of print on the periphery of a phantom skirt. I do this as a printer head clean extrude exercise. \n\nPrint Settings --> Skirt and Brim --> Skirt --> Loops (minimum): 1, Distance from object: 6mm, Skirt height: 1 This works well. I do this in lieu of the G-code startup used in ReplicatorG software (which went to the lower left hand corner, and did this odd 4mm extrude exercise, with odd timing...) The skirt thing works just fine. \n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n11236,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,tangens,2.528907649931287,2.9075761835826794,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Cura 4.3.0 does not pause on Renkforce RF100 V2.2,\"Cura (version 4.3.0) has the ability to insert a post processing script to your print. I tried this for printing a key cover around my door key (similar to this question). I designed the STL file with Fusion 360 (version 2.0.6516) and verified that the height of the beginning of the top layers is exactly at 3.1 mm. The top layer itself has a height of 0.5 mm. In Cura I inserted a pause at height 3.1 mm. \n\nI tried different post processing scripts:\n\n\nPause at height\nPause at height (BG printers)\nPause at height for Repetier\n\n\n\n\nAfter inserting the script I did the \"\"slice\"\" and saved the G-code to an SD card. When printing on my RF100 (firmware version 2.2) no script created a pause at all. All scripts printed the full key cover in one step.\n\nThe part of the G-Code that does the pause looks like this:\n\n[...]\nG1 X57.522 Y62.32 E134.15939\nG1 X57.475 Y62.045 E134.1614\nG0 F3000 X57.47 Y62.02\nG0 X57.469 Y61.845\nG1 F2400 E132.1614\nG1 F600 Z4\n;MESH:NONMESH\nG0 F3000 X54.16 Y67.189 Z4\n;TIME_ELAPSED:247.492714\n;TYPE:CUSTOM\n;added code by post processing\n;script: PauseAtHeight.py\n;current z: 4.15\n;current height: 3.1500000000000004\nM83 ; switch to relative E values for any needed retraction\nG1 F300 Z5.15 ; move up a millimeter to get out of the way\nG1 F9000 X190 Y190\nG1 F300 Z15 ; too close to bed--move to at least 15mm\nM104 S0 ; standby temperature\nM0 ; Do the actual pause\nM109 S210 ; resume temperature\nG1 F300 Z5.15\nG1 F9000 X63.338 Y61.621\nG1 F300 Z4.15 ; move back down to resume height\nG1 F9000\nM82 ; switch back to absolute E values\nG92 E132.1614\n;LAYER:19\n;MESH:0d0e86f0-0b59-4e06-9e77-78fe8e77be5b.stl\nG0 X54.16 Y67.189 Z4.15\n;TYPE:WALL-OUTER\nG1 F600 Z3.15\nG1 F2400 E134.1614\nG1 F2040 X54.171 Y67.193 E134.16172\nG1 X54.689 Y67.418 E134.17722\nG1 X55.228 Y67.625 E134.19306\nG1 X55.776 Y67.811 E134.20894\n[...]\n\n\nCura out of the box has no machine setting for the RF100 v2, so I used the settings for the RF100 v1 and adjusted the dimensions of the width, depth and height to 120 mm. As G-code flavor I stayed with \"\"Marlin\"\".\n\nWhat can I do? This question is not specific to a key cover. I could design this so I could insert the key at the end. But I really would like to know how to do a predefined pause during my print.\n\",0scar,\"G-code M0 is not supported!1)\n\nAccording to the original firmware of the RF100, the firmware is based on Marlin Firmware. From the original sources you can find that in order for M0 (or M1 which is a deprecated alias for M0) to work, you need an ULTRA_LCD supported LCD panel:\n\n\n * \"\"M\"\" Codes\n *\n * M0 - Unconditional stop - Wait for user to press a button on the LCD (Only if ULTRA_LCD is enabled)\n\n\nHowever, your printer does not support such an LCD panel, from the configuration.h can be read that the constant is disabled (// means that the line is treated as a comment and as such ignored by the compiler):\n\n//#define ULTRA_LCD //general LCD support, also 16x2\n\n\nTherefore, these scripts will not work for your printer!\n(Not your printer is running a very old version of Marlin; version 1.0.3)\n\n\n\nSolution:\n\nIt is possible to manually change the G-code for a (in this case) Marlin based firmware2) (so no adding of a pause by Cura) by inserting a few lines to:\n\n\nFirst set relative movement (G91), then retract a certain amount of filament (G1 E-2 F500) or alternatively use G10 using predefined retraction definitions in M207;\nInsert a dwell period by inserting the G-code G4 (plus a time to wait), e.g. G4 P2000 to dwell for 2000 milliseconds (alternatively, G4 S2 will also pause for 2 seconds), please adjust the value to an adequate one in which you can insert the object;\nFirst, unretract filament (G1 E2 F500) and then put the printer back in absolute movement (G90 or alternatively use G11 using predefined retraction definitions in M207.\n\n\n\n\n1) By your firmware version/implementation\n\n2) Note that certain G-codes only work for certain firmwares! Fortunately, the original firmware of the RF100 is based on Marlin Firmware (unless it has been changed form the factory default.)\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n11266,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,mcaulifn,2.8153892694839717,2.877598637377739,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Print not centered,\"I have a Colido 2.0 printer that I cannot seem to get a print centered on the plate. I am using Slic3r and OctoPrint. If I use Repetier Host directly connected, I can get it to print correctly. I'm guessing Slic3r is the culprit but I can't find where. Any suggestions?\n\nCan't post a picture of the actual print. It is printing partially off what would be the left side of the bed according to Slic3r.\n\n\n\n\n\",0scar,\"From your screenshots of the bed shape can be seen that the bed size is defined as 228 x 150 mm with a definition of the origin at (0, 0).\n\nFrom an internet search the bed size of the Colido 2.0 is found to be 225 x 145 x 150 mm. This implies that the current setup is slightly incorrect.\n\nNote that this needs to coincide with the way the firmware has been configured. The accepted answer on question: \"\"What determines print start location on the build plate?\"\" shows that the origin not necessarily need to be at the corner of the build plate, it can also be at the center; this depends on the firmware brand. This answer explains that you can find out where the origin is located. Basically, you need to prepare a G-code file containing at least homing (G28), optionally bed levelling if your printer has auto bed levelling (G29) and a move to the origin (G1 X0 Y0 Z15 F500); note a Z of 15 is chosen for safety!. You can edit an existing G-code file for this or create a new text file from scratch saving the file with a .g extension. When this is \"\"printed\"\"/executed, the nozzle should be at the (elevated, so X, Y) origin as defined by your firmware. Usually this is at the left front corner of your build plate (there may be clips there, so therefore the elevated value), but can also be the center of the plate.\n\nIf the nozzle centers in the middle of the build plate, the bed shape configuration should be altered to put the origin in the center of the build plate, so 225/2=112.5 for X and 145/2=72.5 for Y.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11268,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CEO,2.8153892694839717,2.4133631537631723,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Starting G-code for auto Z probe offset,\"So, I like to take off my glass build plate from my printer bed because I don't like to put any force on the bed bearings but this presents an issue. I have an inductive bed leveling probe and each time I remove the plate the Z offset seems to be off on the next print.\n\nInstead of re-leveling my bed and setting the Z offset by hand, I thought of adding starting G-code to do that for me but I've hit a snag. I have an Ender 3 and use Slic3r.\n\nThe sequence of events I would like is as follows:\n\n\nG28 - home axis\nG0 X150 Y130 Z5 - Moves to X150 Y130 Z5\nG30 S1 - Performs a bed leveling probe at the current point. This raises the head 10 mm and stops when the probe is triggered. The current Z height this stops at is what I want for the next command. \nM851 Z[insert Z height from prev command here]\n\n\nI know Slic3r has these placeholder values for some commands like M109 S[temperature_0] in the square brackets. Is there one for the current Z height?\n\",0scar,\"The inductive sensors trigger to the metal plate under the glass bed. This implies that if you remove the slate of glass, the distance between the trigger point and the print bed is increased by the thickness of the glass slate. But, the trigger point is still exactly the same as if there were a slate of glass (as it triggers on the metal bed underneath). This extra distance need to be compensated for.\n\nThe method you are using is incorrect in determining the distance between the nozzle and bed with respect to the sensor trigger point. This answer on question: \"\"Z Offset on autoleveling sensor setup\"\" describes how you need to determine the distance between nozzle and bed from the trigger point. It includes a manual step to lower the nozzle a paper thickness above the build plate.\n\nIf you insist on using G-code (e.g. in your start G-code script), you can redefine the Z=0 level by adding a G-code G92. In case of a 3 mm glass plate, you should add after the homing (G28) and probing of the bed (G29) the following:\n\nG1 Z0 ; This will move the nozzle to Z=0 as if there was a slate of glass, \n but in fact it is still 3 mm offset\nG92 Z3 ; This redefines the old Z=0 (with glass) to be Z=3 mm\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11283,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Jack Iai,2.528907649931287,3.298894097750058,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,How to wire P.I.N.D.A. v2 to an SKR V1.3 board?,\"I bought a BigTreeTech SKR v1.3 main board and a P.I.N.D.A v2 for my P3Steel MGN. Does anyone know to wire them together and which part in Marlin 2 do I need to change? \n\",0scar,\"TL;DR\n\nTo answer your question how (by assuming you have a 4 pins PINDA v2 sensor) to connect the sensor to your board, you have 2 options:\n\n\nDo not connect the white wire and treat the sensor as you would use a normal endstop switch (blue is ground, brown is +5 V, black is signal),\nConnect the 4 wires (use a splitter cable to split out into a 3 and 1 pin connector, see image below), use the additional pin to read the thermistor value through a free analogue pin, this requires you to do a lot of code changes if you are using a different firmware than the original Prusa firmware.\n\n\n\n\n\nThe PINDA v2 auto bed leveling sensor has an additional wire, usually these bed leveling sensors only have 3 wires (power, ground and signal). The PINDA v2 probe has an additional wire that is connected to a thermistor. This thermistor reading is used by Prusa to compensate the trigger distance with temperature variation.\n\n\n\nWiring the fourth pin would require to reverse engineer the logic behind the temperature compensation if you aren't using the firmware of Prusa (e.g. when you are using Marlin firmware; this is not very simple!). Do note this is something engineered by Prusa printing engineers and implemented in their custom fork of Marlin firmware.\n\nE.g. the compensation is calculated in Marlin_main.cpp by function temp_compensation_pinda_thermistor_offset. This function is called to return the offset based on the read temperature (actual calculation is done in temp_comp_interpolation(temperature_pinda)):\n\n\n#ifdef PINDA_THERMISTOR\n offset_z = temp_compensation_pinda_thermistor_offset(current_temperature_pinda);\n#endif //PINDA_THERMISTOR\n\n\nIt is perfectly fine to not connect the white wire, this is the signal needed to read out the thermistor value used for the temperature compensation. This will disable the compensation feature and will revert the sensor to a normal inductive sensor.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11285,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Roman Matveev,3.0576060275493275,3.8684385840526656,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.265283966335819,Why doesn't PLA stick to heated bed?,\"I have a basic Creality Ender-3 with a black rough bed cover. I'm printing with PLA.\n\nAfter assembly, I printed 3 or 4 small toys sliced by Cura with basic settings. All were printed very well!\n\nHowever, after that, extruded filament would not stick to the bed. I tried the following:\n\n\nBed calibration with A4 paper (each corner with a tight nozzle to paper and repeated calibration again)\nOnce raised up the bed temperature from stock 50 to 60 °C\nWashed the bed with a soap and water (and dried)\nSprayed with a hair spray\nChanged the filament\n\n\nNothing helped so far.\n\nWhat else can I try?\n\",Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2,\"I think you may have used the wrong substance to clean your bed. Try using Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA). You may have left some residue behind from the soap, which is now interfering with adhesion. When that is done, ensure you've gone through the steps for bed leveling again. It's amazing how much of a difference proper bed leveling makes in adhesion. If it still doesn't work, post some pictures up of your results, which will help tremendously in getting you a better answer.\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n11285,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Roman Matveev,3.0576060275493275,3.8684385840526656,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.265283966335819,Why doesn't PLA stick to heated bed?,\"I have a basic Creality Ender-3 with a black rough bed cover. I'm printing with PLA.\n\nAfter assembly, I printed 3 or 4 small toys sliced by Cura with basic settings. All were printed very well!\n\nHowever, after that, extruded filament would not stick to the bed. I tried the following:\n\n\nBed calibration with A4 paper (each corner with a tight nozzle to paper and repeated calibration again)\nOnce raised up the bed temperature from stock 50 to 60 °C\nWashed the bed with a soap and water (and dried)\nSprayed with a hair spray\nChanged the filament\n\n\nNothing helped so far.\n\nWhat else can I try?\n\",Technophile,\"Set the bed temperature to the glass transition temperature, around 80°C for PLA:\n\n\nFilament is slippery and non-adhesive at room temperature\nFilament becomes sticky when near its melting temperature\nPrinted items can pop off of the bed by themselves when cool. This shows that they become less sticky when cool\n\n\nI was told about this and have been successfully printing PLA without rafts, brims, skirts, etc.\n\nTry a tiny print such as a small temperature tower to start.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11288,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Stepan Novikov,2.528907649931287,2.877598637377739,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Would PC be considered food-safe in this setup?,\"I have one 3D printer with Makerbot mk10 extruder and I would like to print my custom cup for tea or coffee from PC.\n\nOther than that, I came across idea that FDM printer will always leave small holes on a surface, so they will be a perfect place for bacteria and make them hard to clean for dishwasher.\n\nAs far as I know, we have several techniques of polishing, like acetone vapor bath for ABS, however, I haven’t heard about something like that for PC and not sure if it's food-safe.\n\",cmm,\"I also print coffee mugs. I have used ABS for a long time, and, given the statements here and elsewhere about bacterial growth sites, have been attaching my life to a thread. That's fine for me, but I don't make mugs for anyone else.\n\nThere are three areas of concern I've found so far:\n\n\nThe plastic may be toxic,\nThe machine itself, especially the nozzle, my deposit bits of lead (Pb) into the object, and\nThe small gaps may harbor pathogenic bacteria.\n\n\nThe toxicity of the plastic can be addressed by researching the FDA website. ABS is generally safe, although additives could be questionable. Also, for some reason the FDA lists ABS as safe, but not for use with alcohol -- so much for beer steins. Since the actual MSDS for hobbyist filaments can be hard to get, I'm considering using a less controversial plastic. PETG isn't good enough -- it softens at the temperature of boiling water (I know, I've tried). My next attempt at non-ABS will be Poly Carbonate. I have a spool queued up, but it is as yet untried.\n\nThe nozzle can be replaced with a stainless steel nozzle, which does not contain lead. Perhaps because they aren't heated, no one seems concerned about brass feed gears in the extruder.\n\nThe layer gaps might be addressable by acetone smoothing. I haven't had great results smoothing mugs. The first problem is that after smoothing a lot of acetone remains in the ABS. Even after a couple of weeks, when hot water is poured into the mug the acetone in the plastic vaporizes and creates bubbles in the surface, which completely defeats the purpose. I've also seen more long-term age-related cracking in vapor-treated ABS. This could also be due to gradually losing acetone and the surface shrinking. If one were to use acetone smoothing, I would suggest post-conditioning the mug in a heated, partial vacuum chamber to encourage the acetone to escape.\n\nThe method I intend to try to seal the inside of the cup is to use a food-grade two-part epoxy. I haven't done it yet, so I don't know how it will work.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n11290,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FEA42,3.618048892289167,5.27114986994754,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,3.0574377365420307,2.748768872127589,What is the purpose behind a glass nozzle?,\"So while doing some research I stumbled upon a wiki page on reprap from a few years back where the user was creating a glass nozzle to replace the brass and PTFE assembly.1\n\nDoes anyone know the theory behind this? Glass is a great insulator so I could see how that would be beneficial for the heat break part but I can't see how it is appropriate for the nozzle as this is normally brass which is a good conductor.\n\nSurely the glass takes much more energy to heat up?\n\nOn a side note I've seen similar projects using ceramic instead.\n\",Carl Witthoft,\"Ceramic I can understand - very strong, great thermal range capability. Glass not so much - you'd need some seriously careful annealing at least.\n In either case the material is much harder than brass, or even steel, so you could presumably use tougher tools to unclog, etc. as needed. If you're using materials loaded with wood or metallic particles, the glass/ceramic tip will be less likely to degrade than brass. \n\nBTW, glass being a thermal insulator means it may take longer to heat up, but the energy required is probably less . The specific heat of glass is on the order of .84 J/gm-K . Compare with brass at 0.38 , but keep in mind the rate at which brass will shed heat into the air vs. glass. In either case the energy is tiny compared with the thermal mass of the hotend assembly. \n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n11290,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FEA42,3.618048892289167,5.27114986994754,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,3.0574377365420307,2.748768872127589,What is the purpose behind a glass nozzle?,\"So while doing some research I stumbled upon a wiki page on reprap from a few years back where the user was creating a glass nozzle to replace the brass and PTFE assembly.1\n\nDoes anyone know the theory behind this? Glass is a great insulator so I could see how that would be beneficial for the heat break part but I can't see how it is appropriate for the nozzle as this is normally brass which is a good conductor.\n\nSurely the glass takes much more energy to heat up?\n\nOn a side note I've seen similar projects using ceramic instead.\n\",Trish,\"First off, this is not a glass nozzle, it is a whole hotend design. A super simplistic one.\n\nGlass is, like ceramics, not a good thermal conductor but has a quite good thermal resistance - it only melts at about 1600 °C, which means you will never have to fight melting or warping of the filament path itself at all - the heater copper wire will melt at about 1084 °C, so way before the glass, and most plastics that are printable start to decompose at less than 400°C.\n\nConstruction-wise, this design has some benefits:\n\n\nDue to the design and material properties, this hotend doesn't need cooling fins and a \"\"coldend\"\" is not needed at all.\nThe whole hotend being one solid piece makes it pretty much a \"\"plug and play\"\" item and prevents leaks.\nGlass is extremely abrasive resistant. This means a glass nozzle could be used for stuff like carbon fiber filament very long.\nGlass can be molten, repaired and modified with fairly simple equipment, e.g. a burner and some skill.\nGlass could be easily cleaned up to medical and food-grade machine ratings. The simplicity of the hotend assembly could make it autoclavable as a whole piece.\n\n\nIt has some downsides though:\n\n\nGlass is brittle and does not take lateral forces and sharp impacts kindly. In other words: Handle with extreme care.\nDue to the glass being an insulator, the inside of the hotend will have a lower temperature than the outside. \n\n\nA fairly thin-walled meltzone could mitigate this problem to some degree at the downside of making it even more prone to breaking\nThe insulating behavior means, that the meltzone has to directly feed into the nozzle with as little unheated area as possible to prevent the molten plastic from solidifying inside the nozzle again.\n\nThe skill needed to create a properly sized nozzle from glass is tremendous.\n\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n11331,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FEA42,1.0891412423578797,2.835469776828434,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Reason behind geometry of heater blocks?,\"I understand the principle of why a heater block is used. Helping to reduce temperature variation as the filament is extruded using the heat capacity of the block.\n\nBut I’m wondering why it takes the form it does? I imagine it is cuboid in shape just for convenience as it’s easy to machine?\n\nFrom a surface area to volume ratio a cuboid appears to be one of the worst shapes to use.\n\nNote:\nI am currently doing a project which requires me to increase the tool clearance of the nozzle of a 3D printer. Hence why I am exploring alternative print head configurations and heater block design trying to minimise the profile of the print head as much as possible.\n\",Trish,\"A heater block has its shape designed simply by the necessity of the needs and the ease to manufacture them. Functionally, a heater block serves as:\n\n\na structural component holding the following components in a well-known position to one another:\n\n\nheatbreak\nnozzle\nheater cartridge\nthermosensor\n\na transmission medium of heat energy from the heater cartridge to the thermosensor and filament path.\n\n\nthis dictates the use of high thermal conductive metals \n\na thermal energy storage to equalize the heating pattern of the heater cartridge.\n\n\nWhile this dictates the internal geometry of the block, it does not say anything about the external geometry. This is chosen entirely because of manufacturing, which strongly prefers square items in a vise with stop positions to allow repeatable machining.\n\nWhile other heater designs are existant, for example wrapping a heater wire around the meltzone, the use of a machined structural element that houses bought components saves a lot of time in assembly Quality Control and subsequent repairs, as each component (heater, thermosensor, block) can be rejected or replaced on its own. This makes the machine all in all more serviceable. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n11331,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FEA42,1.0891412423578797,2.835469776828434,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Reason behind geometry of heater blocks?,\"I understand the principle of why a heater block is used. Helping to reduce temperature variation as the filament is extruded using the heat capacity of the block.\n\nBut I’m wondering why it takes the form it does? I imagine it is cuboid in shape just for convenience as it’s easy to machine?\n\nFrom a surface area to volume ratio a cuboid appears to be one of the worst shapes to use.\n\nNote:\nI am currently doing a project which requires me to increase the tool clearance of the nozzle of a 3D printer. Hence why I am exploring alternative print head configurations and heater block design trying to minimise the profile of the print head as much as possible.\n\",user77232,\"No the heater block does not need to be cuboid.\n\n\n(from http://hot-end.com/)\n\nThis heater block from Maxiwatt is mostly cylindrical. My self and another college use them on our machines and I can say from experience that they heat up faster. \n\nIn the early days of 3D printing people were even making their own \"\"heat blocks\"\" \n\r\n \r\n \nIn the video link, the person is describing how to wrap nichrome wire around a brass wood insert to create a heat block.\n\nThe reason for it being square: It's easy to hold and thus cheap to make.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n11356,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FEA42,1.726248027126092,3.0158611934564274,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.306096197889172,Classifying method of control of 3D printers?,\"Is there a classification of method of control most (FDM) 3D printers fall under?\n\nFrom a 1986robotics textbookref I was reading they defined three classes of control:\n\n1) Pick and place\n\n2) Point to point\n\n3) Continuous path\n\nHowever, both point to point and continuous path control are stated as requiring servo motors.\n\nI know that the majority of 3D printers are actuated with stepper motors as opposed to servo. Does the continuous path classification still apply? Or is there another classification?\n\nref - Todd, D.J.(Ed.):Fundamentals of Robot Technology: An Introduction to Industrial Robots, Teleoperators and Robot Vehicles - Kogan Page 1986\n\",Trish,\"3D Printers fall under additive manufacturing and then can be classified by the material first. Usually, the material dictates entirely what the design looks like and it would be foolish to not differentiate what you look at by this first. For some materials, there are a couple of subtypes that tell us about which method for fusing the material is used, but usually, there is just one.\n\n\nlight curing resin\n\n\nprojected light\nLaser\n\nPaste, gel or air curing resin\n\n\ndirect deposit from syringe\n\nFoil\n\n\nLaser1\n\nPowder\n\n\nLaser\n\nFilament (FFF/FDM)\n\n\ndirect deposit\n\n\n\nOf all these printers, only the FDM/FFF Group has a large diversity in how they are designed on the outer side, with the main 4 designs (and one example) being\n\n\nCantilever (TronXY X1)\nCore-XY (Hypercube)\nPortal (Prusa)\nDelta (Kossel)\n\n\nNow comes the kicker: Most FDM/FFF Printers do use only stepper motors and use G-Code that is derived from CNC - just like the whole idea of FDM was invented as reverse CNC. Only very few use an encoder at all. Marlin, the main firmware used in 3D printers, executes usually point-to-point instructions (G0 X10 Y10 Z0 E5), but some implementations are able to perform arcs (G2 E7.85 R5 X-5 Y5). Usually, printers run in relative coordinates (to the last position of the nozzle/tool), but for some operations absolute coordinates (mainly start or end codes) are used. \n\nAmong the printers that use servos instead of steppers are, to my knowledge, mostly laser-based systems.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11356,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,FEA42,1.726248027126092,3.0158611934564274,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.0574377365420307,2.306096197889172,Classifying method of control of 3D printers?,\"Is there a classification of method of control most (FDM) 3D printers fall under?\n\nFrom a 1986robotics textbookref I was reading they defined three classes of control:\n\n1) Pick and place\n\n2) Point to point\n\n3) Continuous path\n\nHowever, both point to point and continuous path control are stated as requiring servo motors.\n\nI know that the majority of 3D printers are actuated with stepper motors as opposed to servo. Does the continuous path classification still apply? Or is there another classification?\n\nref - Todd, D.J.(Ed.):Fundamentals of Robot Technology: An Introduction to Industrial Robots, Teleoperators and Robot Vehicles - Kogan Page 1986\n\",0scar,\"The question is if robots classification terminology the textbook sketches applies to 3D printing?\n\nServos (closed loop) are used in robots to guarantee position (you don't want to accumulate an error after repetitive movement), most 3D printers use open loop steppers that are instructed on a point to point basis through G-code instructions, implying that the use of servos is not a \"\"requirement\"\" for point to point control.\n\nIt is a requirement if you want to be absolutely sure that the position is reached. In 3D printing where the loads are generally low, this requirement is frequently dropped. But, there are printers that use servo control. \n\nNote that many CNC machines (operating at much higher loads than a 3D printer) even don't use servo's but (open loop) steppers, these are generally larger and more powerful (more torque).\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n11295,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,jimbi3d,2.1782824847157594,2.8020788675182238,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Some steppers only rotate one way on RAMPS 1.4,\"I have a RAMPS 1.4 tester code for Arduino MEGA, only need stepper motors and drivers connected. The code in a working setup moves steppers in both directions but in my setup does something wrong:\n\n\nExtruder 0 , Axis X/Y only moves in 1 direction all time.\nExtruder 1 , Axis Z works fine in both direction\n\n\nI changed stepper drivers but always Extruder 0, Axis X/Y were moving in same direction all time.Tried 2 differents RAMPS 1.4 shields with same results in tester code, Sprinter or Marlin. \n\nI have the code if someone wants, it works fine in other setups.\n\nWhat could be the problem?\n\",Abel,\"As towe said, it could be a dir pin ( can be checked by metering the dir connection), but in my experience this behavior has usually been a limit switch issue (as 0scar pointed out). Try seeing if you have a limit switch setting somewhere that expects normally closed (assuming no limit switches are connected).\n\nThere is also another possibility that has to do with microstepping on some drivers, but i'm guessing you are going for a rudimentary no microstepping test right now (and have configured jumpers appropriately).\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11300,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Geovenox,2.1782824847157594,3.4291679796504773,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Random lines are being printed?,\"I recently got a Creality Ender-3, and tried printing a few things for some tests. I’ve printed a cube and just printed a cylindrical tube today, and I notice each time, it adds this random line on the left and a sort of outline around the actual print. Neither of these were there in my Cura file, but they’re always printed and I’m not sure why?\n\n\n\",0scar,\"If the printer is printing, it is instructed to do so by the G-code file unless you are printing through an external software program that has extra G-code to print before your print starts. E.g. in OctoPrint print server it is possible to execute G-code before the print starts.\n\nLeft line = Priming\n\nThe straight line on the left is typically used to prime the printer nozzle to get the filament flow starting, this is typically seen in PrusaSlicer (Prusa's fork of Open Source toolpath generator for 3D printers Slic3r). This straight line is called priming line, purge line or intro line, and is typically (but not necessarily) printed outside or at the edge of the bed area. Furthermore, a prime line print routine will catch errant nozzle ooze, test extrusion (it is the first indication if the nozzle to bed distance is correct; if not you can abort with minimal material loss) and perform a final wipe action to avoid stringing between the prime line and start of the print. Note that this straight prime line is not a standard option in a custom profile of Cura, so this was part of the Ender-3 Preset you imported or possibly you have copied a starting G-code that includes this prime line.\n\nA typical set of G-code lines to create a prime/purge/intro line is found in your start G-code and could look similar to:\n\n\nG1 Y-3.0 F1000.0 ; go outside print area\nG92 E0.0\nG1 X60.0 E9.0 F1000.0 ; intro line\nG1 X100.0 E12.5 F1000.0 ; intro line\nG92 E0.0\n\n\nAfter slicing your object, you will find such lines in the generated G-code file, but they are not displayed in the preview. Further information can be found in Writing G-code : swiping at start of print \n\nEquidistant line = Skirt\n\nThe lines at distance from the print object is called the \"\"skirt\"\", the skirt is an option found under the \"\"Build Plate Adhesion\"\" options in your slicer. The function of the skirt is similar as described for the straight prime line, but it has additional effects that can be wanted. It also shows fairly fast if the bed is unleveled as a whole or if the bed is greasy. Please look into: \"\"What are main differences between rafts, skirts and brims?\n\"\".\n\nNote that it is usually superfluous to use both the prime/purge/intro line and the skirt, both have a similar function. The benefit of the skirt is that you can configure it within the slicer (e.g. length of the printed skirt, height to use as a shield for draft or ooze and distance to product). The downside is, that a skirt limits the useable build area by the distance and width of the skirt.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n11300,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Geovenox,2.1782824847157594,3.4291679796504773,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.6553159206313057,Random lines are being printed?,\"I recently got a Creality Ender-3, and tried printing a few things for some tests. I’ve printed a cube and just printed a cylindrical tube today, and I notice each time, it adds this random line on the left and a sort of outline around the actual print. Neither of these were there in my Cura file, but they’re always printed and I’m not sure why?\n\n\n\",Mayoogh Girish,\"The outline around the actual print is called Skirts. and the random line on the left is called intro line it's not necessary you need both Skirt and intro line. The intro line can disable from custom starting gcode settings\n\nA skirt is an outline that surrounds your part but does not touch the part.\nThe skirt is extruded on the print bed before starting to print your model. Skirts serve a useful purpose because they help prime your extruder and establish a smooth flow of filament. Observing the skirt also allows you to detect and adjust any leveling or adhesion issues before the actual model begins printing.\n\nYou can easily edit/disable(not recommended) those settings in Cura (or in any slicing software)\nIn you Cura navigate to Build Plate Adhesion settings\n\n\n\n\nSkirt line count: The number of skirt lines printed around the model.\nSkirt distance: The distance between the model and the skirt.\nSkirt minimum length: The total length of the skirt. This will\noverride the skirt line count when the minimum length is not reached\nyet.\n\n\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n11323,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Daniel Sympho Weiss,2.528907649931287,3.4153416935671306,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,Thermal runaway on extruder hotend,\"I am getting thermal runaway even after PID autotunning many times. I tried 10, 15, 20, 25 and 30 cycles and after reuploading FW onto the printer but I still get the error... \n\nI've built a copy of Prusa's i3 mk2 by following Building the cheapest possible Prusa i3 MK2. \n\nI have tried autotune with the cooling fan off, 50 %, and 100 %, but nothing changes.\n\nThe printer is in a closed cabinet room.\n\nI was just watching it printing + temperature graph, and after ~20-30 minutes it starts jumping from 199.3-5 to 200.6-9... And that causes, after a few minutes, thermal runaway. The fan was on for 15 minutes or more. \n\nAny help?\n\",Trish,\"If a temperature of (rounded) 201 °C is triggering TRP, then one of three things is the culprit:\n\n\nThe TRP Hysteresis is awfully trigger happy. See What is Thermal Runaway Protection?\nYour Heater cartridge is not properly mounted and has a bad connection to the heater block and upon heating and expecting a much higher temperature but not measuring the associated increase it triggers TRP as it thinks \"\"DANG! My thermosensor or heater cartridge must have fallen out of the heater block!\"\"\nYour Thermosensor has occasionally erroneous readings that are interpreted as temperatures way over or under 200 °C and trigger TRP.\n\n\nTo rule out the problems, do the following:\n\n\nCheck the mounting of the thermosensor and heater cartridge. Tighten if needed. The thermosensor should have no cracks (glass) or deformation (metal cylinder)!.\nCheck resistance and wiring of the heater cartridge (it should have some depending on the type) and thermosensor (If you use a thermocouple sensor, you might need to flip wiring).\nUse a terminal with a graphic interface and look at the temperature output line as you heat up and print. If it has spikes or sudden valleys, you get occasionally erroneous readings and should go back to recheck your wiring or replace the thermosensor.\nOnly after making sure the physical side is ok, look at the TRP code and Thermal Settings in configuration_adv.h. Only alter these if you know what you are doing, as you do so at your own risk - the settings in the distribution are well proven to be safe, while alterations might turn TRP effectively off and turn your machine into a fire hazard. Which factors to increase carefully is detailed in this answer.\n\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n11328,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,URL,2.1782824847157594,2.4332015829084375,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Delete only invisible parts of faces,\"I have an STL made out of triangular faces that intersect themselves to create very complicated patterns. It also has a very messy internal structure. I'd like to remove the parts of the faces that are invisible from outside, whilst still maintaining the precise geometry of the model.\n\nAny free software I can use is fine by me.\n\nI tried using the Hollow Tool in Meshmixer, but that just deleted half of everything, for some reason. I also tried doing a Uniform Mesh Resampling in Meshlab, but that just created a wrinkly, disconnected mess. Disabling infill in Cura seems to do nothing.\n\nFor reference, the model looks like this.\n\n\n\",Trish,\"As long as the STL creates a closed, manifold, watertight body, a good slicer will just slice it. Ultimaker Cura has the option to Union intersecting shells, which lets it take non-manifold parts of a shell and union them to the body in such a way that it creates a closed body. More simplification and fixing the problem in a slicer usually is not needed. If there is still some area where internal geometry is created, it can help to create an overlapping internal structure deliberately, as Easy way to refine a 3D-model for 3D printing by removing internal geometry explains.\n\nLet's look at some example: The STL game export of a pauldron is made from the base body (one shell) and the rivets (which are another shell inside the STL). If Union Intersecting Shells is active, the rivets are sliced and printed as part of the pauldron. If Union Intersecting Shells is not active, the rivets are found to be non-sliceable and ignored.\n\nInfill is meant to support the upper structures in print.\n\nIf it is mandatory to join the item into one shell, the STL format isn't the best to go through. \n\nIf the pattern is produced by a program, that is able to generate and export STEP files, these could be used by CAD software such as Fusion360 which then would interpret the generated body in such a way that it can be unioned easily, getting rid of internal geometry.\n\nIf the program generating the pattern is working with a vertex cloud such as blender, it should be possible to cut the long outer lines into several pieces and placing the vertices on the intersection of lines. These vertices could then be merged and any internal edges (and faces) removed. This can be a tedious process.\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n11338,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,PatricF,2.1782824847157594,3.5945397744369445,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Flashing a bootloader on Ender 3 without Arduino,\"I just order myself an Ender 3 Pro which will come by the end of the week.\nBefore it arrives I want to be ready to flash a bootloader onto it.\n\nI was wondering what other options there are to flashing except using an Arduino?\n\nI have a bunch of ESP8266/ESP32 and a USB to TTL. Would it be possible to use these somehow instead of an Arduino to flash a bootloader to the Ender 3?\nOr should I just go buy an Arduino?\n\",Roberto Lo Giacco,\"What you need to is called a ICSP or ISP: in-circuit serial programmer or in-system programmer, which excludes the USB to TTL device you own.\n\nI've never used an ESP8266 as ICSP but it seems there are some resources out there reporting it is possible.\nIf you want to go the easiest way probably you want to buy an Arduino and follow the tons of tutorials out there, if you are looking to save some money then you might get around buying an ICSP like the very well known USBASP (just Google for that).\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n11338,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,PatricF,2.1782824847157594,3.5945397744369445,1.7539669625835614,3.1880595895805834,2.746326330407206,2.880918201452841,Flashing a bootloader on Ender 3 without Arduino,\"I just order myself an Ender 3 Pro which will come by the end of the week.\nBefore it arrives I want to be ready to flash a bootloader onto it.\n\nI was wondering what other options there are to flashing except using an Arduino?\n\nI have a bunch of ESP8266/ESP32 and a USB to TTL. Would it be possible to use these somehow instead of an Arduino to flash a bootloader to the Ender 3?\nOr should I just go buy an Arduino?\n\",jpa,\"You can do AVR programming using USB-TTL adapters. This relies on bit-banging, i.e. emulating the programming protocol by using the serial control lines as general purpose IO.\n\nBut this has a few caveats:\n\n\nUSB-TTL adapters limit the speed of control line changes. So the programming will be very slow, taking several minutes.\nYou need to have the RTS, DTR and CTS lines available on the USB-TTL adapter. Many of the cheap adapters do not have these signals available on pins, though you could solder to the chip directly.\n\n\nIf those two are in order, go ahead and install avrdude, take one of the serial port bitbang (serbb driver) example files and configure it with information on which serial adapter pins you've connected to the AVR chip. Then give -i 1000 or similar delay value to avrdude to slow it down enough to work over the USB interface.\n\nThere is a blog post about doing it with PL2303 based adapter, but the technique should work on other USB-TTL adapters also.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n11341,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,chewbapoclypse,2.528907649931287,2.541486592782186,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Ender 3 X-axis values are not correct,\"So I just got the Ender 3 and have been trying to print out a part. However, I noticed the printer is trying to print the part, which should be centered in the bed, on the left side. \n\nI performed the auto home, leveling procedures, prior to execution, but it still wants to print it on the left side. \n\nI checked the values it thinks it has for X, but they are about 60 mm to high (i.e. from the control/move axis menu, I move it towards the zero position and when it touches the switch, it still thinks its around 65-70 mm in the positive direction).\n\nI have tried the good old power cycle, but each time it seems to get worse printing closer and closer to the edge. I am sure that I must have fudged something up. Anyone know how to fix the mismatched position? \n\nThanks for any advice!\n\",chewbapoclypse,\"So the issues with the digital display values, was caused by the X-axis binding up and not advancing. I had to move the axis via the control panel in the positive direction and noticed once it got about half-way out, it wouldn't advance for like two or more steps.\n\nOn the control panel, it said I was 235 mm out from the home position, but in reality I was more around the midway point. When I would move it back to the home position the read-out still displayed that I was offset from the home position in the positive direction.\n\nTo fix it I tore it down and reconstructed it (made sure everything was plumb and level), I also flipped the belt in the opposite direction (teeth down, so that the stepper pulley grips the belt teeth).\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n11349,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,chewbapoclypse,2.1782824847157594,2.6493643560602123,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Ender 3 X-axis belt orientation,\"What is the correct orientation for the X-axis belt? \n\nI first thought to place the smooth side down to match the tensioner bearing, but then changed it to match the motor pulley.\n\",Trish,\"Sadly, the Ender-3 assembly instructions were not clear on step 7, what the right direction is (teeth on inner side of the loop):\n\n\n\nThe Belt has teeth that need to engage the teeth of the hobbed gear on the motor, just like in the preassembled Y-axis. The teeth have to go aim to the \"\"inside\"\" of the loop. This way, the belt will not slip on the motor side and the movements will be repeatable.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n11351,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Alex,1.726248027126092,3.6260512276357146,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,What is M73 Q17 S43 G-code command?,\"I know that M73 P19 means \"\"Set completion progress to 19%\"\", and I suspect that M73 R42 means \"\"Set remaining time to 42 minutes\"\", but what is M73 Q17 S43? I can't find description of such syntax.\n\nThe command is seen in .gcode files produced by PrusaSlicer.\n\",0scar,\"The M73 Set/Get build percentage G-code is only defined for a selected few printer firmwares.\n\nAs you suspected, next to M73 P19 (tell the firmware at what completage percentage the print is) the M73 R42 tells the firmware the left time to completion.\n\nIf you look at the description of the M73 G-code, the following parameters may be used:\n\n\nP: Percent in normal mode\nR: Time remaining in normal mode\nQ: Percent in silent mode\nS: Time remaining in silent mode\n\n\nSo, running the Q and S parameters, is similar to the P and R parameters with the exception for referring to the printer percentage/time when in stealth (quiet) mode.\n\nThese modes, normal and stealth, refer to power modes of Prusa printers:\n\n\n Normal vs. Stealth mode\n MK3 printers offer two print modes. Normal mode is required for the detection of lost steps (shifted layers), while still being quieter than the silent mode on MK2/S. There is also the Stealth mode, which utilizes Trinamic StealthChop technology, making the printer almost inaudible with the print cooling fan being the noisiest part of the printer. However, Stealth mode does not provide lost step detection.\n\n\nStealth mode times can be a bit higher than normal mode estimation times. Estimation is done by the slicer. As Prusa maintains this feature, their times are accurate for their printers, but that does not have to be the case for custom printers. \n\nTo get the current progress, the M73 command is called without parameters:\n\n\n Use \"\"M73\"\" by itself to get a report of the current print progress.\n\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n11351,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Alex,1.726248027126092,3.6260512276357146,0.0,3.1880595895805834,2.3655567426522146,2.104288080884247,What is M73 Q17 S43 G-code command?,\"I know that M73 P19 means \"\"Set completion progress to 19%\"\", and I suspect that M73 R42 means \"\"Set remaining time to 42 minutes\"\", but what is M73 Q17 S43? I can't find description of such syntax.\n\nThe command is seen in .gcode files produced by PrusaSlicer.\n\",towe,\"The tooltip for \"\"Supports remaining times\"\" under Printer Settings -> General -> Firmwarein PrusaSlicer quotes:\n\nEmit M73 P[percent printed] R[remaining time in minutes] at 1 minute intervals\ninto the G-code to let the firmware show accurate remaining time.\nAs of now only the Prusa i3 MK3 firmware recognizes M73.\nAlso the i3 MK3 firmware supports M73 Qxx Sxx for the silent mode.\n\n\nTherefore:\n\n\nP = Percentage printed, normal mode\nR = Remaining time, normal mode\nQ = Percentage printed, silent mode\nS = Remaining time, silent mode\n\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11360,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SomeNorwegianGuy,1.726248027126092,3.079570220207228,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"Prusa i3 MK3S keeps clogging during print. Ugly streaks sometimes, and complete clog when printing with lower layer lines\",\"The extruder on my Prusa i3 MK3S keeps clogging while printing. Loading is fine, and each time it clogs, unloading and loading the filament seems to work.\nThe filament extruded just after resolving a clog looks like it has small bubbled on it.\n\nThe problem only seems to happen when printing certain models. Printing the Batman symbol at 0.15 mm works every time. But the model I'm trying to print always fails at most a few minutes in.\n\nI've tried cleaning the nozzle. Cold pull twice, and taken it out and heated it with my airgun and trying to work on it with the acupuncture needle.\n\nThe print that fails is this \"\"Small Pill Container\"\" with 0.1 mm layer height and 100 % infill, but printing a simple cylinder shape (25 mm outer diameter, 2.5 mm walls) creates the same problem. Trying to print them both at the same slicer settings with 0.15 mm layer height still fails.\n\nThe model was sliced using the newest version of PrusaSlicer 2.1.0 and printed with Prusament PLA at the factory recommended 215±10 °C, and tried 220 °C.\n\nAny ideas what could be happening? Anybody experienced a similar issue?\n\nPrinting the bundled TreeFrog 50 μm sliced by Prusa for the Prusa I3 MK3S cased the same problem. Jam happened about 30 min in. I guess this rules out slicer problems as the root cause.\n\n\n\nAfter a lot of research, it seems a lot of people have problems with the MK3 clogging, especially with PLA, and especially with prints with a lot of retractions. The issue seems to be the design of the heat-break, which has a throat between 2.2 mm and 2 mm, where the PLA can get stuck. I've ordered a new heatbreak. Please read this answer of my findings.\n\",0scar,\"The problem with low layer heights is that the filament flow is low, this means that the filament is at prolonged times at temperature, filament cooking can cause clogging. Try increasing the layer height to 0.2 mm to observe if the same clogging problems still occur, furthermore, try lowering the extrusion temperature.\n\nAlso, heat creep is a known issue (insufficient cooling of the cold end) to cause clogging. Note that this is unlikely on the Prusa MK3S, but you could check whether the fan rotates freely and that there are no additional obstructions in the flow path. \n\nIt could be that a combination of too much hotend temperature and a low filament flow is causing this issue.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11360,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SomeNorwegianGuy,1.726248027126092,3.079570220207228,0.0,3.1880595895805834,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"Prusa i3 MK3S keeps clogging during print. Ugly streaks sometimes, and complete clog when printing with lower layer lines\",\"The extruder on my Prusa i3 MK3S keeps clogging while printing. Loading is fine, and each time it clogs, unloading and loading the filament seems to work.\nThe filament extruded just after resolving a clog looks like it has small bubbled on it.\n\nThe problem only seems to happen when printing certain models. Printing the Batman symbol at 0.15 mm works every time. But the model I'm trying to print always fails at most a few minutes in.\n\nI've tried cleaning the nozzle. Cold pull twice, and taken it out and heated it with my airgun and trying to work on it with the acupuncture needle.\n\nThe print that fails is this \"\"Small Pill Container\"\" with 0.1 mm layer height and 100 % infill, but printing a simple cylinder shape (25 mm outer diameter, 2.5 mm walls) creates the same problem. Trying to print them both at the same slicer settings with 0.15 mm layer height still fails.\n\nThe model was sliced using the newest version of PrusaSlicer 2.1.0 and printed with Prusament PLA at the factory recommended 215±10 °C, and tried 220 °C.\n\nAny ideas what could be happening? Anybody experienced a similar issue?\n\nPrinting the bundled TreeFrog 50 μm sliced by Prusa for the Prusa I3 MK3S cased the same problem. Jam happened about 30 min in. I guess this rules out slicer problems as the root cause.\n\n\n\nAfter a lot of research, it seems a lot of people have problems with the MK3 clogging, especially with PLA, and especially with prints with a lot of retractions. The issue seems to be the design of the heat-break, which has a throat between 2.2 mm and 2 mm, where the PLA can get stuck. I've ordered a new heatbreak. Please read this answer of my findings.\n\",SomeNorwegianGuy,\"Change the heat-break to a generic E3D one. Order it from Prusa as the heat-break for the MK2 version, or any generic heat break for the E3D hot-end assembly.\n\nOn the Prusa i3 MK3(s), this component has been given a 45° taper in the middle, between 2.2 and 2 mm. This is done to ease filament retraction for the MMU, and will only be problematic if you are not using the multi-material upgrade. Especially with higher nozzle pressures(eq. with lower layer lines), the filament may be squeezed into this taper, clogging the hot-end.\n\nYou may not experience full clogs, but partial ones that will show themselves as streaks in certain layers on the print.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n11369,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SZH,2.1782824847157594,2.877598637377739,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Painting Text on Model,\"For a model that has raised text on it, how do go about painting the very top layer of text, to make it stand out from the background? Lets say I printed the whole model the same color, what type of paint would work well, and not get on the background too?\n\nHere's an example of a model that has raised text: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3025280\n\",Greenonline,\"You don't provide any dimensions or sizes, but...\n\nAssuming that the text is sufficiently elevated from the rest of the model, you could use a firm solid (as opposed to soft and spongey) roller, of an appropriate width.\n\nThis should enable you to paint just the text without getting paint on the rest of the model.\n\n\nIf the text is small and in a \"\"valley\"\" or groove, then a narrow roller would be required, in order to avoid the surface either side of the text.\nIf the text is not on a flat, or smooth surface, then a small diameter roller might be required.\nIf you can't find a tiny paint roller, you could jerry-rig one using a paper clip and a roller wheel from an old cassette tape\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n11369,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,SZH,2.1782824847157594,2.877598637377739,0.0,4.022883302450398,1.8746593652159236,1.6229190288168605,Painting Text on Model,\"For a model that has raised text on it, how do go about painting the very top layer of text, to make it stand out from the background? Lets say I printed the whole model the same color, what type of paint would work well, and not get on the background too?\n\nHere's an example of a model that has raised text: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3025280\n\",Trish,\"The technique you look for is drybrushing and not dependant on a specific type of color, as long as it can be applied with a brush.\n\nAn alternative technique might be carefully applying glue and leaf metal.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11402,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,PGT,2.1782824847157594,2.5072605669755292,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"Setting up UBL for the first time on Marlin 2.x on a Prusa i3, how often should I level the bed using G29?\",\"I used to use the Marlin 1.x software that would level the bed by probing the 4 corners of my print bed (a long time ago, it's been at least 2 years since I used my printer, wasn't able to set it up after I moved).\n\nMy slicer had G-code that would kick off a level at the beginning of every print.\n\nI've upgraded to Marlin 2.x and now I'm setting up UBL. It takes quite a bit of time to probe the bed with UBL, like 10 minutes. The steps tell me to save to EEPROM and my firmware is set up to restore after every G28 (Home).\n\nHow often should I do a G29 (Bed Leveling)? Should I do it every print? Every 10 prints? 100 Prints? Or when I see that the print isn't sticking to the bed?\n\nEDIT: I went from a Grid-style ABL to UBL because UBL merges the benefits of a few different leveling techniques so theoretically it should be better. I understand I could just go back to grid-style bed leveling but even when it was working, for some reason the z-offset would shift ever so slightly every few prints and I would have to change configure it in my slicer. I'd like to try UBL and see if I can leave my printer for a while without having to fidget with the Z-offset.\n\",Verl Humpherys,\"This is more of a personal preference type question rather than something with a hard and fast rule. \n\nYou should not need to relevel your bed very often unless you have some external force that regularly changes the bed level.\n\nI regularly print objects that take 24+ hours to print, so a 10 minute process prior is not much so it might be worth it to set it up every time if your prints run very long. If you mostly print smaller or quicker to print objects, 10 minutes might matter to you.\n\nI have noticed that my prints fail pretty quickly if I have a leveling issue, and it's not hard to stop the print, clean the plate and relevel at that time.\n\nWhat should you do?\n\nIf 10 minutes doesn't matter that much, go ahead and relevel with every print. If it matters, wait until you start to have issues. See how long it takes for your bed to become unleveled and use that as a guide. E.g. if you can print 10 times before having issues, then try setting it for every 6 or 7 prints.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n11391,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,ubiquibacon,2.528907649931287,2.7548616721246675,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,Klipper doesn't seem to adjust Z after BED_MESH_CALIBRATE,\"My rig:\n\n\nEnder 3\nBLTouch\nOctopi\nKlipper\nSolid bed mounts\n\n\nI've updated my start G-code from Cura to include a G29 right after G28 and my Klipper config has the following override for G29:\n\n[gcode_macro G29]\ngcode:\n BED_MESH_CLEAR\n BED_MESH_CALIBRATE\n BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default\n\n\nEvery print now goes through BED_MESH_CALIBRATE sequence and the Bed Visualizer plugin yields this result:\n\n\n\nBased on the info here, Klipper: G-code commands - Mesh Bed Leveling I would expect Klipper to adjust for the differences seen in the visualization above, but the initial layers of my prints are very squished on the right and rear of bed (right and rear of image) and not squished on the left and front of the bed (left and front of image) which make it seem like BED_MESH_CALIBRATE measured the differences in the bed level, but didn't actually do anything about it. Isn't the point of BED_MESH_CALIBRATE to adjust for these differences? \n\nYou can see in the first pic below that the final move on the initial layer from the outside edge of the print (right front corner) to the inside has the nozzle so low that it melted a line in the first layer as it skidded across. \n\nIn the second pic below you can see that the left front edge of the print didn't squish properly so it has detached from the bed. What am I missing?\n\n\n\n\n\",ubiquibacon,\"I have identified the problem as lead screw backlash! \n\nBed calibration and Z-axis offset compensation appear to be working as intended, but there is enough backlash in the Ender 3 stock lead screw that the corrections in Z-axis movement commanded by Klipper result in almost no actual nozzle movement.\n\nI'm measuring about 0.35 mm of backlash in my lead screw. With differences between the lowest and highest points of my bed being only 0.6 mm the best case scenario (which would only happen if I was using my entire bed) is that the actual nozzle movement would only be about 42 % of what Klipper commanded. The fix for this is to change out the lead screw for a ball screw. The problem could also be mitigated in Klipper if Klipper implemented backlash compensation, but from what I've read on GitHub it doesn't seem like that is a feature the developer of Klipper wants to implement.\n\nUpdate:\n\nI installed this anti-backlash nut and it greatly reduced the backlash, but didn't eliminate it. I've uninstalled my solid bed mounts and reinstalled springs until I upgrade to a ball-screw for the Z axis. The auto bed leveling compensation still does something, but the adjustment allowed by having springs is what is really doing most of the leveling work.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n11393,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Woodman,2.1782824847157594,2.3718730033712077,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Acetone Smoothing an ABS Cone - (New to 3D printing),\"Today marked my first time using a 3D printer - have to admit I was originally skeptical but am now incredibly impressed and am having to hold myself back from purchasing one for myself! Was a great experience. \n\nAnyway, I build rockets, and decided to 3D print a bespoke nose cone (Link 1) to fit my rocket. However the sliced layers probably won't do great for aerodynamics, so I've looked into ways to smooth the cone out. I was wondering, using an acetone vapour bath as seen in Link 2, is it possible to smooth the surface of my print without loosing shape? It's only small (12x4x4 cm), and I'm worried that the acetone that smooths the surface could misshape the cone (which I would rather keep perfectly symmetrical!) or cause ABS to melt and pool around the base. \n\nWill the acetone disfigure the print, or is it possible to give it a vapour bath without it pooling and melting? \n\nLink 1: Thingiverse - Ogive Nose Cone\n\nLink 2: Simple way to make ultra-smooth 3D prints at home\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"\n is it possible to smooth the surface of my print without loosing shape?\n\n\nThat is by definition impossible. Smoothing the surface implies that the geometry is changed. Rather, the question is: how much does acetone smoothing change the shape, and is that change within the tolerances of your application?\n\nAcetone smoothing is a fickle process, and how (much) the geometry is changed depends on a lot of factors, such as the concentration of the acetone vapor, the amount of time the print is exposed to it, the exact composition of the plastic, geometry of the print, etc... It is definitely possible to overdo it and melt your print into a puddle, but it is also possible to smooth it out without affecting the geometry significantly.\n\nI would recommend experimenting with the process and seeing whether you can tune the process (time/concentration) so that you get a smooth enough part without affecting the geometry too much.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n11416,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Ryan,2.528907649931287,2.574082176164519,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.746326330407206,3.082726318457765,Thermal runaway with specific prints,\"I have been experimenting with PETG on my CR-10 upgraded with an E3D all-metal hot end and Marlin firmware on the controller. I am printing with 0.8 mm nozzle at 250 °C and an 85 °C bed.\n\nWhen I print in vase mode, the prints come out beautifully (and quickly with the 0.8 mm nozzle). However, with solid-body prints, I routinely get a thermal runaway fault at about the third layer (the fault references E1). Can anyone suggest how to solve this and why the thermal runaway protection only trips with solid-body prints?\n\nFor context, when I tried to print the same solid-body print in PLA (205 °C hot end and 50 °C bed) I did not get the thermal runaway fault.\n\",0scar,\"Thermal runaway protection (see What is Thermal Runaway Protection?) is triggered when the scheduled voltage to the heater element does not result in a specified increase in temperature within a specified timeframe.\n\nThe exit of hot filament from the nozzle and the loss of heat of the heater block and the conduction heat loss through the heat break to the cold end need to be supplied by the heater element. When the filament melting temperature is high, heat losses are relatively high as well, this means that the software needs to compensate by scheduling the heater element more quickly/activated sooner (there is some heat capacity in the heater block) and longer. If it is unable to provide enough heat than is being used, the temperature cannot be maintained and the printer notices that scheduling power doesn't result in a temperature rise. This will trigger the thermal runaway protection in the firmware.\n\nThis can imply that too much heat leaves the nozzle in the form of hot filament, and as such, your printing speed may be too high (or the printing temperature too high). \n\nNote that you are using a 0.8 mm nozzle diameter, this means a flow increase of $ \\frac{0.8^2}{0.4^2}=4 $ with respect to a \"\"standard\"\" 0.4 mm nozzle! A slower print speed is therefore advised anyways.\n\nTo solve this, you can either:\n\n\nInsulate the heater block, e.g. with a silicone sock\nInstall a different type of heat block, e.g. a E3D Volcano which has a larger heat input zone\nPrint slower\nPrint at a lower temperature\nChange the firmware settings of your TRP (should be done with care!)\n\n\nTo explain the latter option, from the Configuration.h you can read that if you encounter these problems, you can tune this in the Configuration_adv.h\n\nExcerpt from Configuration.h:\n\n\n * If you get \"\"Thermal Runaway\"\" or \"\"Heating failed\"\" errors the\n * details can be tuned in Configuration_adv.h\n\n\nExcerpt from Configuration_adv.h:\n\n\n * If you get false positives for \"\"Thermal Runaway\"\", increase\n * THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS and/or THERMAL_PROTECTION_PERIOD\n\n\nSo you need to change these constants:\n\n#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_PERIOD 40 // Seconds\n#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS 4 // Degrees Celsius\n\n\nThe most effective solution for your problem will be limiting print speed and experiment with printing at slightly lower temperatures.\n\",2.353748300761693,2.0769199823829045\n11418,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,DWO,2.1782824847157594,2.4332015829084375,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Why am I getting Z banding/shifted layer on a single layer?,\"While I was calibrating my flow rate/extrusion multiplier, I noticed that one layer is shifted slightly. I wanted to re-print the cube in-case it was a fluke, but after two more prints, I saw that the same layer was being shifted in the same way. Also, that is the only layer that is shifted, every other layer is perfect/almost perfect.\n\nI'm using Cura 4.3.0, on an Ender 3 which I purchased about a month ago. The extruder is upgraded to a Trianglelabs Bondtech BMG clone. The E, X, Y, and Z steps have all been calibrated. The bed is level (I'm using a Creality ultrabase glass bed). I have upgraded the stock PTFE tubing to Capricorn, upgraded the PTFE coupler fittings (they have plastic tab inserts to keep the tube in place). The X gantry is level. I've also re-lubed the z-rod with super lube, made sure the lead screw nut is loose and printed out a z-spacer for the z stepper motor. That's about it, I'm still using the stock board but my SKR mini is in transit right now. Finally, the filament I'm using is the filament that Creality bundled in with the printer when I purchased it off their official website so I don't know how quality their filament is.\n\nBelow is a picture of what I'm talking about, I've highlighted in the area with a sharpie. Sorry for the bad image quality my phone is on its last legs at the moment haha:\n\n\nThis is the guide I was using to calibrate the flow rate and also where I got the STL\n\",cmm,\"I started this as a comment but it couldn't fit. If it isn't a true answer and should be removed, I understand.\n\nYou suggest in your question that perhaps the defect could be caused by a problem in the Z-axis lead screw. Indeed, that is possible. If so, it would probably introduce a defect at that position across the entire print bed. If you print a test object and the defect is on all faces at the same height, check your Z-axis. With the power removed, try slowly moving the bed up and down through the region where the defect occurs, feeling for any hangup, hesitation, looseness, or any other non-uniformity.\n\nIf the defect is along a particular line, check the complementary axis. If the glitch is a X-axis line, check the Y-axis. If a Y-axis line, check the X-axis. Slid the axis back a forth slowly, feeling for any non-uniformity in the motion. It could be a scratch on the linear bearing, or a ding from dropping something. Any discontinuity can cause a linear Z-axis defect, up or down.\n\nIt could even be cause by the printer not being firmly sitting on the table at an angle, so that after a particular point the balance point changes and the printer rocks, introducing a glitch.\n\n3D printers, and many other motion control systems, relay on flat, smooth, uniform bearing surfaces connected to smooth, continuous drive systems.\n\nIf you attach photos of all four surfaces, we might have a better idea of how to look for the problem.\n\nIt wouldn't hurt at this point to wipe and clean all sliding surfaces, and then re-lubricate them.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n11424,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,sharpener,2.1782824847157594,2.3277042668439822,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,Prusa i3 mk3 step skipping and layer shifting,\"After approx. a year of more or less problem-free printing (40 days print time) with Prusa i3 mk3 kit, we started to suffer the random layer shifting on Y axis.\n\n\nWe inspected all the motor connectors are properly inserted in the mainboard and the wires are intact.\nWe ensured all the pulleys' screws on the x/y motor shafts are very tight and secure to be sure the pulleys don't slip.\nWe inspected the belts and pulleys, there is no mechanical problem like dust blobs, filament residues, etc.\nWe tightened the belts to be hard enough to show the expected support|belt status value (under 280) after self test is performed.\nWe switched off the crash detection feature.\nWe fully cleaned/re-lubricated the Y axis linear bearings and the rods to be sure there is no dirt causing any friction.\nWe tightened the nuts on the U holders fixing the bearings to the bed (hard enough not to squeeze the bearings so they can freely move on the rods).\nWe bought Japan PNY LM8UU bearings and replaced the original ones on Y axis (suspecting they are worn out).\n\n\nNothing of these helped fully:\n\n\nSome steps improved the quality (like only one random skip in print).\nSome steps degraded the quality (like additional step skips in previously flawless X axis).\n\n\nSince the issues started, we had 4 hour reference design to be printed again and again using the same setup/filament etc. It became reference because its print started to exhibit the skips. We refused to slow down the print or perform any other workarounds, because we wanted to make the printer great again ;-)\n\nWhat else should have been done to revert back to flawless prints without random X/Y step skipping and thus layer shifting?\n\",sharpener,\"Long story short: Try to replace the stock power supply.\n\n\nWe connected UPS between the printer supply and the wall outlet and the skips reduced to one/two per print.\nWe replaced the supply with random old used Mean Well SP-320 (zero care about the power panic feature, just plain 24V connected) and voilà: reference design passed.\nAlso few more complex designs after supply switch are still flawless, so we hope that was the problem and it's fixed now.\nThis Q&A post is to help others to skip the major frustration and save some time.\n\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n11435,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,capnjck,1.0891412423578797,2.2804870714504255,0.0,2.011441651225199,0.0,0.0,Anet A8 Z-Probe Bed Positioning going outside of bounds,\"I have an Anet A8 with the Anet 1.7 board, Skynet3d v2.3.2, and the stock sensor. I originally had this configuration with the stock extruder, but recently purchased an E3D v6 clone with a Bowden extruder. After installing a new bracket I had printed (TNS E3D v6 Bracket) with the adjustable stock sensor mount. I installed the extruder and sensor.\n\nI knew I had to adjust sensor position. I went through the 3DStackExchange post on Z probe boundary limits as well, and added all of the end positions and probe to nozzle offsets (I will list below) to my Configuration.h file, saved, checked the changes were there in the Configuration.h tab in the Arduino IDE and uploaded the firmware. After this I went to hit auto leveling in the prepare menu, and the positions were different from the stock extruder and mount, but when it got to the third position, the sensor was off the bed, and the nozzle dug into the bed.\n\nThe configuration I was editing was from the Anet A8 5 button stock sensor Configuration.h file.\n\nMy probe is (When looking from the front of the Anet A8) forward and right of the nozzle.\n\n\nMy Y-axis offset is -3 (the sensor is 3 mm in front of the nozzle when looking from the front)\nMy X-axis offset is +37 (the sensor is 37 mm to the right of the nozzle when looking from the front)\n\n\nThe stock min_probe_edge is 10 mm, so with my math my Left Probe Bed Position is 47, Right is 210, Back is 207, and front is 10.\n\nI want to get my probe settings properly set up so I get my bed leveling back and I do not want to ruin my bed while leveling. \n\",0scar,\"Have you made sure that the new carriage has the appropriate values so that the nozzle is at (0, 0) when commanded to that position? See e.g. \"\"How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset)\"\". E.g. the carriage design mentions #define X_MIN_POS -10, is that working for you? Have you also loaded all values from firmware using M502 and then M500? Also, Skynet3D is obsolete!, use Marlin instead!\n\",0.0,0.0\n11436,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hellrazor,2.528907649931287,2.8020788675182238,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,1.6229190288168605,Switched to a Bowden setup. Should I retract the filament out at the end of a print?,\"I switched my Anet A8 over to a Bowden and it's printing great. Moving that weight off has enabled me to almost double the speed and resonance problems have vanished. \n\nMy question is regarding after the print is done should I add a retraction code and back the filament out of the v6 or is it okay to leave it in there?\n\nMy concern is that if I leave it in there, will it cause a clog or anything when I warm up the printer tomorrow to print something else? If that's not a something I should be concerned about let me know.\n\",R..,\"I agree with towe's answer. I would leave it, retracting at most a mm or two just to avoid a mess. If you retract much at end of print, initial state for the second or later print is different from after just loading new filament, and this leads to different priming/skirt outcomes for the two cases, which can be problematic.\n\",0.0,0.0\n11436,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Hellrazor,2.528907649931287,2.8020788675182238,0.0,4.022883302450398,2.746326330407206,1.6229190288168605,Switched to a Bowden setup. Should I retract the filament out at the end of a print?,\"I switched my Anet A8 over to a Bowden and it's printing great. Moving that weight off has enabled me to almost double the speed and resonance problems have vanished. \n\nMy question is regarding after the print is done should I add a retraction code and back the filament out of the v6 or is it okay to leave it in there?\n\nMy concern is that if I leave it in there, will it cause a clog or anything when I warm up the printer tomorrow to print something else? If that's not a something I should be concerned about let me know.\n\",Tim Li,\"After the completion of a print, remove the filament from the Bowden tube as it may break while not printing and can sometimes be difficult to remove. Basically if you aren’t going to do another print soon, remove the filament.\n\",0.0,0.0\n" }, { "path": "input/qa_stackexchange_cleaned_toy.csv", "content": "id,host,question_username,question_score,question_views,question_favs,answers_count,answers_max_score,answers_mean_score,question_title,question_body,answer_username,answer,answer_score,is_answer_accepted\n1,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Adam Davis,3.767809650974757,3.912607320579891,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.4319460411998994,How to obtain high resolution prints in a shorter period of time?,\"When I've printed an object I've had to choose between high resolution and quick prints. What techniques or technologies can I use or deploy to speed up my high resolution prints?\n\",hroncok,\"You could experiment with slicing. For example, you might not need high resolution all over the object, but you can speed up some straight parts by using greater layer high there. See a part of Slic3r manual about such thing.\n\nIt is also possible to print thicker infill every Nth layer, see Infill optimization in Slic3r.\n\nOther slicers might have those features as well.\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n1,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Adam Davis,3.767809650974757,3.912607320579891,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.749318730431847,3.4319460411998994,How to obtain high resolution prints in a shorter period of time?,\"When I've printed an object I've had to choose between high resolution and quick prints. What techniques or technologies can I use or deploy to speed up my high resolution prints?\n\",plaintoothpaste,\"For FDM technologies in general with a single extruder, slicing modifications is your only options. However there will be a trade off between quality and speed. \nFor ABS, changing to a machine with a enclosed build (such as a zortrax) chamber may help and a heated build chamber (Stratasys machine) will help the quality and reliability but not the print speed directly. As ABS has a tendency to warp vase mode is not the best idea either.\n\nIf you only need high resolution and not strength then reducing the infill percentage or even using vase mode will speed up the print. Also changing to a material that you can print at higher speeds like PLA will magnify any of the previous settings.\n\nIf you have two extruders then changing to a wider nozzle and using that for infill may speed up the print, heating and cooling time during extruder changeover may actually make it slower.\n\nFor other technologies there are lots of options digital light projection (DLP) and stereolithography (SLA) both provide significantly higher resolution then FDM, with DLP being the faster of the two, comparison. Take the review with a grain of salt though as the technologies are far from standardised, for example out DLP at work offers far higher resolution and speed then our SLA which is quite old.\n\nSintering or melting technologies can scan the outline every layer then perform a infill of multiple layers at once to speed up the process. \n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n4,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Adam Davis,4.541637296610063,3.9215535641013384,2.7799718631987322,4.670422881206417,3.320478682445624,3.4319460411998994,Are there any metals that exhibit a large glass state?,\"Plastic is used in 3D FDM/FFF printing partly because it had a wide temperature range for its glass state - where it can be flowed with some force, but won't flow due only to gravity.\n\nMost metals have a very narrow, or non-existant, glass state. They transition from solid to liquid with almost no flowable-but-not-liquid state.\n\nAre there any metals or alloys that display a glass transition state?\n\",TextGeek,\"I\"\"m no expert on this, but the article at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amorphous_metal may be relevant for you.\n\nThere are some special alloys, such as gold/silicon and various titanium-based ones, that become \"\"bulk metal glasses\"\" if cooled extremely quickly (for example, by sputtering onto a spinning cold surface). The speed of cooling prevents crystal formation. Early BMGs were quite strong but brittle; improvements have reduced brittleness and required cooling speed.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n4,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,Adam Davis,4.541637296610063,3.9215535641013384,2.7799718631987322,4.670422881206417,3.320478682445624,3.4319460411998994,Are there any metals that exhibit a large glass state?,\"Plastic is used in 3D FDM/FFF printing partly because it had a wide temperature range for its glass state - where it can be flowed with some force, but won't flow due only to gravity.\n\nMost metals have a very narrow, or non-existant, glass state. They transition from solid to liquid with almost no flowable-but-not-liquid state.\n\nAre there any metals or alloys that display a glass transition state?\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"A few things are required for effective extrusion-style 3d printing materials:\n\n\nIt must stay where placed by the nozzle long enough to harden (or, alternately for pastes and such, have a shear-thinning or thixotropic viscous profile so it will not flow under its own weight). \nIf using a filament extruder, it must have a wide range of viscosity that varies gradually over a considerable temperature range. This is necessary to develop the proper \"\"cap zone\"\" semi-melt shearing behavior that allows the incoming filament to act like a piston and generate pressure upstream of the nozzle. Pellet extruders have a similar requirement but related to screw/wall shearing rather than filament/wall shearing. If using neither filament nor pellets, such as clay printers, the material must be pumpable by a positive-displacement pump. (It is possible to pump molten metal, but the cost is quite high.)\nIt must form some kind of bond with previously-deposited solid material, without needing to be in a state that will rapidly flow and lose shape.\nIt must have some combination of low shrinkage, the ability to creep at the printer's ambient temp, and/or low stiffness that allows consecutive layers to be stacked without an unacceptable amount of warping. \n\n\nLiquid metals tend to have a conflict between \"\"Staying where you put it\"\" and \"\"bonding with the previous layer.\"\" In order for deposited metal to fully bond, the interface material needs to reach the melting point so a true fusion weld occurs. And in order to supply enough heat to remelt the interface without an additional heat source like an arc, the deposited molten metal needs to be very hot. So it will tend to run while it cools. High density and high heat capacity makes it run fast and cool slowly. \n\nPretty much every DIY metal 3d print (such as made by wire-feed MIG welders) ends up looking something like this:\n\n\nhttps://3dprint.com/29944/diy-metal-printing-garage/\n\nIn comparison, polymers have long molecular chains that allow them to \"\"diffusion weld\"\" and adhere WITHOUT fully remelting the interface. Molten liquid plastic will stick to solid plastic quite effectively. The interface only needs to get hot enough for appreciable diffusion to intertwine the molecular chains. This will occur between the glass point and melting point, without true fusion occurring. So you can print molten plastic at a temperature where it will stay in place long enough to harden, and still get good bonding.\n\nMetals also tend to be very stiff, which encourages warping. It is difficult to build a heated environment of sufficient temperature to properly stress-relieve the thermal contraction stress as the print progresses, whereas with plastic a heated build plate and warm enclosure can permit warping stresses to start relaxing as the print progresses. \n\nIt is possible to \"\"FDM-style\"\" 3d print filament/wire made of metal alloys that have a wide range between solidus and liquidus. It has been done using solder and similar alloys. However, between the warping stresses, poor layer bonding from inadequate interface re-melting, and use of soft low-melting alloys, the resulting printed parts will usually end up being weaker than if they had simply been printed in a strong plastic. For example, PEEK is nearly as strong as aluminum, and carbon fiber or fiberglass composite plastics can exceed metals on various performance metrics. So what's the point of printing with weak, brittle metal alloys?\n\nOver the years, lots of people have tried FDM-style metal printing, but no one has found it worthwhile to pursue in the long run. More typical DIY metal printing approaches like 3D MIG welding following by cleanup machining will produce better results.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n2,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,5.291027456384213,5.52632428328061,3.507933925167123,5.199501240805782,5.195138047661548,4.521992869097919,Is 3D printing safe for your health?,\"I would like to buy a 3D printer, but I'm concerned about the health risks that are associated with its operation. Some groups of scientists say it can be harmful for humans.\n\nWhat do I need to consider before buying a 3D printer if I care about my health? Are there any safe printers?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"There is very little information about safety available, as home 3D printers are relatively new. However, plastics such as ABS have a long history in making plastic products, and a study found that at traditional manufacturing methods (such as injection molding and hot wire cutting) do not release dangerous levels of carcinogens and/or respiratory sensitizers in to the air.\n\nOf course, 3D printers are not among the processes covered in the study. In home 3D printing circles, this study that looks at ultrafine particle (UFP) emissions, is often cited. It finds that printing ABS releases relatively high levels of UFP's and PLA releases significantly fewer (but still quite a large amount). However, it is unclear whether/how dangerous these UFP's are in the amounts emitted.\n\nIt is often suggested that PLA, partly because of the reduced UFP emissions is safer to print than ABS, partly because of its \"\"natural\"\" origins as it can be derived from materials such as cornstarch. I would caution against this line of reasoning since \"\"natural\"\" materials can still be poisonous (snake venom is natural, after all) and the cornstarch is heavily processed so it hardly resembles its original form. The lower UFP emissions may suggest it is safer, but the study is only quantitative, not qualitative.\n\nThat said, PLA does probably pose less of a risk (despite my earlier argumentation against \"\"natural\"\" materials, PLA does play quite nicely with the human body), but I contend the risk with ABS is not too large anyways, given that it has been safely used in factories for decades.\n\nAnother study is often miscited, supposedly saying that 3D printing ABS releases hydrogen cyanide. The study only looks at the thermal decomposition of ABS, which happens at significantly higher temperatures than are reached during printing (but a significantly malfunctioning printer might cause toxic gasses to be released, but I contend that at that point you should worry about your printer being on fire, rather than temporary exposure to some toxins).\n\nThere are no printers out there that are fundamentally safer than others. However, some printers have an enclosure (containing the fumes) and some even have a carbon filter and a fan for fume extraction. If you would like to err on the side of caution, this might be a good choice (but again, it is not clear if a carbon filter is totally effective).\n\nFinally, as printers are generally quite noisy it tends to be preferrable to keep your printer in a separate room from where you usually work. In this case, fume exposure (during the few minutes that you go to check on your print) is minimal, and the potential advantages of a \"\"safer\"\" printers or using \"\"safer\"\" materials diminish.\n\nIncidental exposure as a hobbyist is probably not a big deal; workers in factories are exposed to the fumes of melted plastic their entire lives and they don't seem to be dropping dead. On the other hand, if you are going to be printing structurally then it is probably preferable to move your printer to a separate room, if not because of health and safety because of the noise.\n\",4.452510692745205,2.0769199823829045\n2,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,5.291027456384213,5.52632428328061,3.507933925167123,5.199501240805782,5.195138047661548,4.521992869097919,Is 3D printing safe for your health?,\"I would like to buy a 3D printer, but I'm concerned about the health risks that are associated with its operation. Some groups of scientists say it can be harmful for humans.\n\nWhat do I need to consider before buying a 3D printer if I care about my health? Are there any safe printers?\n\",KobeJohn,\"I am going to address the air issue as it is currently unresolved. the third dimension offers a great answer for common safety issues.\n\nThe short answer is that based on our limited knowledge at this point, there may be imperceptible health hazards related to FDM / FFF printers and therefore additional safety precautions are, in my opinion, necessary and not optional or secondary as suggested by some in the community.\n\nIn other words, if you can isolate your printer in a well-vented area where people rarely go, then of course it's not a health risk, but if people will be exposed to the air of the printer for any significant periods of time, you need to do something about it. This is my situation - where I live dedicated workshops and extra rooms are luxuries that most people do not have.\n\n\n\nRealistic Chance of Being Dangerous --> Treat It As Dangerous\n\nThe key information at this point in time is the UFP (Ultra-Fine Particle) study that is linked in Tom's answer.\n\nLeaving out the scary / detailed parts:\n\n\n Therefore, results herein suggest that caution should be used when\n operating these 3D printing instruments inside unvented or unfiltered\n indoor environments due to their large emissions of UFPs.\n \n One important limitation to this study is that we have no information\n about the chemical constituents of the UFPs emitted from either type\n of 3D printer [...]\n \n [...] there may also be\n differences in toxicity because of differences in chemical\n composition.\n\n\nThis means that although many processes release UFPs (the authors of the paper compare to cooking), all UFPs are not created equal. Since the UFPs from 3D printing are still an unknown, the only real answer from a safety perspective is to treat them as dangerous.\n\n\n\nThis is not legal, safety, or professional advice!\n\nI am not qualified to give an opinion on what should be done but I will share what I would do:\n\n\nVenting - Active airflow pushing the envelope of air around the print into a large, unpopulated body of air.\nEnclosure + Venting - By fully enclosing your printer, it will probably keep the UFPs mostly within the enclosure. You could combine that with either continuous venting or as some have suggested purge venting before opening the enclosure.\nEnclosure + Filtering - A filter can be applied both to the vent to reduce the output of UFPs (e.g. if you have no access to a safe body of air) and as a recirculating system that removes the UFPs from the body of air within the enclosure.\n\n\nA note on positive vs negative pressure related to venting and filtering: if you produce positive pressure within the enclosure, you are going to be blowing all the UFPs out into your environment anyway. Negative pressure vented to a safe body of air or neutral pressure with good seals and recirculated filtering may avoid that.\n\nA note on filters: Activated carbon filters will not remove UFPs. HEPA filters may remove 3D printing UFPs.\n\n\n\nWhich Printer?\n\nAs long as the uncertainty exists, I predict that as the market matures, filtering and enclosures will become more standard. At this point in time, the only enclosed AND HEPA filtered consumer-grade FDM printers I am aware of are the Up! Box and the Zortrax Inventure. There are a number of enclosed printers without filtering.\n\nAs an alternative, at least one company has appeared with products targeted at those who are concerned about various safety aspects of 3d printing.\n\",3.2133663407215876,0.0\n6,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,3.767809650974757,4.305810774244716,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,3.749318730431847,3.299796711874648,Multi-color printing with desktop 3D printer?,\"My MakerBot printer supports only two filaments at the same time.\n\nWhat are techniques to print objects with more than two colors for one object?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The most obvious solution is to pause the print and swap filament for another color.\n\nAnother option is to splice pieces of filament together, though this does not allow very precise control of when the switch happens. There is also a device that can automatically slice filament this way.\n\nFinally, another option that uses very little external equipment is to use (permanent) markers to colorize light-colored filament.\n\nOther options include upgrading to a printer with more hotends, or installing a hotend with multiple filament inputs and one outputs, but these options would involve significantly changing your printer setup.\n\",3.2133663407215876,2.0769199823829045\n6,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,3.767809650974757,4.305810774244716,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,3.749318730431847,3.299796711874648,Multi-color printing with desktop 3D printer?,\"My MakerBot printer supports only two filaments at the same time.\n\nWhat are techniques to print objects with more than two colors for one object?\n\",Tony Hansen,\"Answering this question fully depends on the type of printer you have. Some printers have a pause capability, while others do not. Some have multiple extruders, while most do not. Some have a tube leading to the extruder and others do not. You specifically are asking about dealing with more than two colors when you have a dual-extruder, but the question generalizes to how to get more colors than you have extruders.\n\nMarkers probably offer the easiest solution. You could have different markers on the feeds for each extruder.\n\nFor printers with no pause ability, you might have to snip one filament and hand feed the second color after the first one until it can be caught by the feeder gear.\n\nThere are rigs that are available, or that you can make, that will let you connect two strands together lengthwise. You can then make up a single piece of filament that has multiple colors. Thus, one extruder head will be generating multiple colors.\n\nThe Kickstarter mentioned elsewhere essentially does this automatically for several strands whose lengths are calculated precisely by special software. The result is a single strand of filament that goes into one of your extruders - the other extruder would be unused with this solution.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n11,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,6.049731802703411,7.633809159772513,7.703979648734118,6.681864532431616,6.457297638258076,4.431549196390846,How do I give 3D-printed parts in PLA a shiny smooth finish?,\"The surfaces of my printed parts using PLA plastic look rough and uneven.\n\nWould changing filament to a better one make any difference?\n\nIf not, what kind of methods can I use to achieve a smoother finish for my for 3D-printed objects?\n\",TheNewHobbyist,\"PLA parts can be finished with a coat of epoxy like XTC-3D from Smooth-On. This will smooth out the part and give it a pretty nice shine.\n\nI've also had a fair amount of success sanding prints, giving them a coat of automotive filler primer, and using glossy spray paint.\n\nYou can also get great results with an acetone vapor finish if you're willing to switch to ABS. Though that will require a heated bed and can be a bit more finicky to work with than PLA.\n\",5.534248852833473,2.0769199823829045\n11,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,6.049731802703411,7.633809159772513,7.703979648734118,6.681864532431616,6.457297638258076,4.431549196390846,How do I give 3D-printed parts in PLA a shiny smooth finish?,\"The surfaces of my printed parts using PLA plastic look rough and uneven.\n\nWould changing filament to a better one make any difference?\n\nIf not, what kind of methods can I use to achieve a smoother finish for my for 3D-printed objects?\n\",Jason lapointe,\"So we know what doesn't work but what does work (but not well) is alcohol! Only isopropyl alcohol 90% (and up) will work! Also at Walmart you can get stuff called Goo Gone or even better is Oops! \n\nWhat you're doing is melting the plastic chemically. Since PLA is made from corn (more or less) the same chemicals won't work on this kind of bio plastic that PLA is. ABS is an oil based product so that's why acetone works. \n\nI use those two mentioned products because they are made to remove glues and waxes and don't immediately evaporate so it has time to do its job and dissolve the plastic. Alcohol will evaporate, especially with less water content, and I absolutely positively don't want anyone doing this in a bedroom or kitchen especially do not do it without ventilation! The vapors are flammable and will build up fast at room temp and takes little to set off and it's just bad! \n\nWith alcohol I dip and soak the parts till I see them looking kind of soft like having a skin or depending on the PLA used silky. I print hotter than recommended with hot bed little to no fan and more feed because what happens is it gets denser past a certain temp and will look like its messing up and not print right like its clogged or not being fed fast enough and it's true but if you increase the feed rate to say 108 or 115 it compensates for the shrinkage and you get the same fill. \n\nNow that being said your going to get smoother prints because it becomes like watery but with faster speed and or little fan snaps it in place but the hot bed will keep it from getting too hard for the next pass of the hot end and new layer so the next layer wont go on a cold surface and can easily get squished and fused to the last layer and now two 0.15 mm layers act like three but denser and smoother. \n\nThen with the Oops! chemical or alcohol I just take what's left of the imperfections off. I take a dustless cloth and apply the solution onto it and wiping in the same direction with very little pressure till it feels like the cloth is getting stuck or its biting then I leave it alone for 15 seconds and wash it off by dunking it in a bucket of cold soapy water then rinse with fresh water and repeat if necessary. It's best if you use string to hold or suspend the parts because it's easy to leave prints behind. \n\nAlso even better (and I don't offer this because any liquid when atomized can be flammable - besides water) is to use spray bottles instead and lightly spray the same process on and dip-and-dunk to take it off - instead of wiping and risking leaving prints with marks on the finished parts. \n\nThere is sanding. Lots of sanding is another way to smooth parts. \n\nI also tried conformal coating my parts which works but gets messy when trying to apply over a pre applied coat. \n\nThen there's body filler or if you use paint I recommend either automotive paint with filler primer or a paint in the automotive section specifically for plastic and vinyl or heavy thick paints but not latex but lacquer paint that is heavy and fills in imperfections but lays flat when dried! There are Lexan paints for RC and model plastics but need primer. \n\nBut your best bet is make sure that your printer is running 100 % print in as fine detail with no bigger than 0.4 mm nozzle and make sure your slicer profile is setup to work perfectly with how your machine works like your stepper numbers and everything because all that matters first and foremost your first layer determines the rest of the print! Level bed and clean level surface! New nozzle every few dozen prints makes a difference unless you get a high end tip! \n\nKeeping your Bowden tube fresh also makes a big difference! Get yourself feeler gauges and use them to level your bed instead of paper and it will be exact every time! And print the same speed and make as few adjustments as possible through the whole print and it will come out uniform. Taller prints if you need hot bed add heat as the print gets taller or nozzle temp because the print will lose heat as it gets higher up and won't print the same as the bottom layers.\n\nI hope this helps or was the answers you were looking for! I was just passing through and hate useless answers that done have anything to do with the question asked! People like to just talk I guess.\n\",-1.0137042167431434,0.0\n14,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,4.707190134647046,5.332345899456804,4.072585167927022,6.034324953675596,4.620985695623129,3.7272071097011072,How to print metal-like parts?,\"I would like to print parts (e.g. jewellery) for use which I don't want to look or feel like a plastic, but metal-like, so briefly people won't see much difference.\n\nAre there any specific type of home-printers that can achieve that? Or it's rather kind of filament that you should use?\n\",TextGeek,\"There's also an interesting discussion of printing with specially-designed solder alloys, at RepRap: Blog - A new approach to printing metals. \n\nThe author settled on 57.5%Sn, 41.3%Bi, 1.2% In, which begins to melt at 130 °C and finishes by about 170 °C. This has much better viscosity after melting, so it doesn't just drip away or bead up, and whose melting point is low enough that it can be applied directly on top of PLA or ABS. \n\nBrass nozzles corrode quickly, however, so another material is needed (anodized Al was an improvement). It sounds difficult but feasible.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n14,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,4.707190134647046,5.332345899456804,4.072585167927022,6.034324953675596,4.620985695623129,3.7272071097011072,How to print metal-like parts?,\"I would like to print parts (e.g. jewellery) for use which I don't want to look or feel like a plastic, but metal-like, so briefly people won't see much difference.\n\nAre there any specific type of home-printers that can achieve that? Or it's rather kind of filament that you should use?\n\",hroncok,\"If you'd like to print on RepRap like FDM printers, you cannot print from metal, but you can use some filament that tries to look like metal. I have good experience with Bronzefill, but there are plenty of others, just Google for metal filament 3d printing. Note that sometimes the parts need to be post-processed with a rock tumbler. There are several open source DIY tumblers you can build and use.\n\nIf you actually want to print from metal, you would need SLS (Selective laser sintering) printer, which is much more expensive.\n\",3.9604314711224866,2.0769199823829045\n19,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,4.030301511886631,4.904433942959754,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,4.091740895605862,3.4319460411998994,How to easily get rid of rafts and support structures?,\"My printed parts consist rafts, supports and other extraneous filament when printing with ABS or PLA.\n\nWhat are efficient general techniques of removing them?\n\",the third dimension,\"The best way to get rid of them is to change the design of the printed object to make them unnecessary.\n\nInstead of printing the one part with support material, the piece can be split into two or more parts which can be printed without support material and assembled after the printing.\n\n\n\nGiven that this is not always fully possible, a convenient way to get rid of additional structures is to use a different fillament for them that can be removed easily. This list of printing materials includes Polyvinyl Acetate (PVA), which is water soluble. You can wash the support material away given that your actual printign material is not water soluble. Here's a quote from the website (emphasize mine):\n\n\n PVA (Polyvinyl Acetate) filament prints translucent with a slightly yellow tint and is primarily used as a 3D printing support material because it is water-soluble, meaning that it will dissolve when exposed to water (and so MUST be kept dry prior to use). PVA is most often used with 3D printers capable of dual extrusion: one extruder printing a primary material (such as ABS or PLA) and the other printing this dissolvable filament to provide support for overhanging features. PVA 3D printer filament is available in 1.75mm and 3mm.\n\n\",3.5068404193471867,2.0769199823829045\n19,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,4.030301511886631,4.904433942959754,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,4.091740895605862,3.4319460411998994,How to easily get rid of rafts and support structures?,\"My printed parts consist rafts, supports and other extraneous filament when printing with ABS or PLA.\n\nWhat are efficient general techniques of removing them?\n\",Pete,\"I use diagonal cutters and a pair of mini pliers. \nI print with Simplify3d and the support structures are remarkably easy to remove, I find giving a quick pull pops most off. The diagonal cutters get rid of any small beads leftover. \n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n20,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,5.235888512265087,6.732353551784467,3.507933925167123,3.1880595895805834,6.377916418987655,6.203382699249042,\"What are main differences between rafts, skirts and brims?\",\"I would like to understand the differences between rafts, skirts and brims. They appear in the software which I'm using to edit my 3D objects.\n\nCan anybody elaborate what are these and what are the main differences between them?\n\",ζ--,\"All three of these features are used to improve the quality and success rate of prints, especially those failing due to issues on the first few layers, or due to the small size of the first layer.\n\nRaft\n\nA raft is a horizontal feature made as the first few layers of a print, and is used to help with bed adhesion issues, primarily used with ABS. The first few layers printed are the brim (typically prismatic), with the part itself on top of it (with a small separation distance to aid in separation, to allow the part to be removed from the raft). This separation distance needs to be adjusted to allow the first layer of the actual part to adhere, but also for the raft to be removed easily.\n\nSkirt\n\nA skirt is a single-layer feature designed to help extruder priming and to establish a stable filament flow for an optimal first layer. They are generally a few passes around the first layer \"\"footprint\"\" in the rough shape of the first layer, but they do not touch the part itself or help adhesion directly (although having a primed and ready extruder helps extrusion on its own). \n\nBrim\n\nA brim can be considered a skirt touching the first layer shape. It is used to help adhesion, and increases the first layer surface area (thus having more area to adhere to the bed). Brims are best used for parts with small first layers that fail to adhere properly. They are generally done as perimeters (as opposed to the crosshatching of infill) to be easily removable without damaging the part.\n\",3.2133663407215876,0.0\n20,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,5.235888512265087,6.732353551784467,3.507933925167123,3.1880595895805834,6.377916418987655,6.203382699249042,\"What are main differences between rafts, skirts and brims?\",\"I would like to understand the differences between rafts, skirts and brims. They appear in the software which I'm using to edit my 3D objects.\n\nCan anybody elaborate what are these and what are the main differences between them?\n\",Eric Johnson,\"Rafts:\n\nRafts are a few layers of plastic a placed on the printing surface before the object is printed. If non water dissoluble filament is used, a bit of an air gap will be placed between the raft and the print itself so it can be removed easily. A raft can help a print stick to the printing surface as it normally has a larger surface area than the bottom of the print. It also allows the bottom layers of the print to contact another layer of plastic so there is less spreading compared to printing on the printing bed itself.\n\n\n\nSkirts:\n\nSkirts are loops of plastic that are extruded around the object that is being printed. On the first layer this allows the filament to get pushed through the extruder so that a steady flow can be established. A multiple layer skirt can be used to create a blockage around the print so there is less air movement on the print and the print can cool slower.\n\n\n\nBrims:\n\nA brim is a layer of plastic that is placed on the first layer of the print go allow for better adhesion to the printing surface. It does not extend under the print as a raft does, but only goes from the edge of the print to a set distance away. \n\n\n\nCredits: Images from Slic3r\n\",5.466214909488349,2.0769199823829045\n28,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,-2.8153892694839717,3.642950305588681,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.0574377365420307,3.4319460411998994,How to 3D print a bike?,\"I've seen article about World's First 3D Printed Bike.\n\nWhat kind of printer is required to do that, briefly how long it takes and how much does it cost? Is this even achievable at home? Doesn't need to be that specific one. \n\",Dani Epstein,\"You will need a laser sintering or lasercusing printer, which will not be something you can buy for home use. They are horribly expensive.\n\nYou could always print this in PLA or ABS and cast it in aluminium. Then you have to find a safe method to test the result, because casting is not quite as simple as it looks and the bike could be seriously dangerous.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n33,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,3.9045305118418514,3.828896735094969,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,4.731113485304429,4.278234949448167,How many times printed printer can print it-self?,\"There is a 3D desktop printer RepRap which can print most of its own components.\n\nAssuming each printed printer will print the next one and so on. Are there any limitation how many times this can be achieved?\n\nFor example somebody printed for me printer and I do the same for my friends and they do the same for theirs. Can this go forever (since 3D model stays the same), or there are any serious side-effects/disadvantages of doing that continuously?\n\",Adam Davis,\"The files used to print these objects are digital, and do not degrade in any way after each printing. There are no side effects or degradation that occurs over time due simply to printing them multiple times.\n\nThis is the RepRap philosophy, and the machines are actually designed with enough tolerance for printing and building mistakes that even if the print isn't perfect, it will not only work fine, but it can print a printer better than it was printed, with some care and attention to calibration.\n\nThe process still takes a lot of human intervention, in the way of building the new printer and properly calibrating it. If there are errors in the printer or the prints it produces, they can almost always be attributed to the builder/calibrator/user, and not to the design or the fact it's the Nth generation of printer.\n\",4.0548168669725735,2.0769199823829045\n33,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,3.9045305118418514,3.828896735094969,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,4.731113485304429,4.278234949448167,How many times printed printer can print it-self?,\"There is a 3D desktop printer RepRap which can print most of its own components.\n\nAssuming each printed printer will print the next one and so on. Are there any limitation how many times this can be achieved?\n\nFor example somebody printed for me printer and I do the same for my friends and they do the same for theirs. Can this go forever (since 3D model stays the same), or there are any serious side-effects/disadvantages of doing that continuously?\n\",Matt Clark,\"As long as you maintain each printer and keep a proper calibration, go for it, this is what they were designed to do, I've even made replacement parts for myself.\n\nUnfortunately the RepRap project just shut down on 1/15/16 due to their lack of sales.\n\nI have a reprap that came from a reprap, and has made another reprap.\n\nJust make sure that when printing out the pieces for the next you are properly calibrated, otherwise the next machine might be built crooked;\n\nYour only limitations will be the electronics pieces and the small amount of hardware that you will need to buy.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n49,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,3.267423727073639,3.4733367161777027,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Are there any methods of limiting exposure of hazardous fumes and odors emitted by heating the plastics?,\"When using thermoplastic-filament, this can be potentially hazardous, since constant printing can emit hazardous fumes and odors that may be emitted by heating the plastics.\n\nI understand it normally should be used in well ventilated areas. However I would like to use it heavily in the basement which is not well ventilated.\n\nAre there any practical methods of limiting such exposure? For example locking it in some special box, covering it or suck the odors? Would that help?\n\nDo you have any experience doing so?\n\",Adam Davis,\"Using negative pressure ventilation and a suitable organic filter will limit your exposure to toxic compounds, but won't completely remove them from your environment.\n\nEnclose your printer in as air-tight a box as you can manage, then use a fan to suck air out of the box. This negative pressure will ensure that any leaks in the box will not allow gasses to escape.\n\nThe air should be blown through an organic filter. This might be done with face mask filters for painting, for instance.\n\nAdditional filtering may be done depending on the compounds you expect the printer to produce, but the ideal situation is to set up a ventilation system to the outdoors where the products cannot concentrate and harm anyone.\n\nAnother poorer option is to simply wear a proper organic filter mask yourself. It's not as good, since the compounds can spread through your residence or remain in the air and be inhaled when you aren't printing.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n59,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,5.178744081378276,4.941464167462551,4.072585167927022,3.1880595895805834,5.623978095647771,5.3106318412626115,How to recycle filament material from printed parts?,\"Is it possible to re-use ABS or PLA filament material from printed parts?\n\nIf so, what is the techniques to reform it?\n\",Kevin Morse,\"There are a few options.\n\n\nMachines are available which grind the used plastic into fine pieces, melt it down, and extrude it as filament to be reused. Filabot is perhaps the most well known.\nDepending on where you live the local recycling programs may accept PLA or ABS. They will then shred it and melt it down for reuse.\nPLA is bio-degradable so you can put it in the compost.\nI put scrap ABS in acetone which results in a slurry which can be used as a glue to attach ABS parts, fix cracks, and hold parts to the bed.\n\n\",4.820049511082381,2.0769199823829045\n59,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,5.178744081378276,4.941464167462551,4.072585167927022,3.1880595895805834,5.623978095647771,5.3106318412626115,How to recycle filament material from printed parts?,\"Is it possible to re-use ABS or PLA filament material from printed parts?\n\nIf so, what is the techniques to reform it?\n\",YetAnotherRandomUser,\"If you're more interested in the recycling and reuse aspect than the re-print aspect, you could melt all the scrap filament onto a cookie sheet or into a bar (like in a bread ban). You could then manually work the material, or use a CNC machine to carve out your next thing.\n\nThis Youtube video refers to HDPE, but the same concept will apply to other thermoplastics.\n\nThis Youtube video uses a cookie sheet and failed prints.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n83,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,4.356564969431519,4.590028253642861,0.0,4.670422881206417,4.503257053771732,3.4319460411998994,How to automate printing of multiple parts continuously?,\"I would like to print multiple parts continuously (non-interactively), so\nI can leave the printer alone for a longer time. So after finish, parts could be moved somehow out from the printing area, so the next can start.\n\nAre there any methods of achieving that with standard desktop printers without having to use multiple printers?\n\",tbm0115,\"The only thing I can think of off hand is an old mod for the early MakerBot machines. It first was released for the Thing-O'-Matic I believe, but is compatible with Replicator 1 machines (and its knock-offs). Here's the Thingiverse page, but look up Automatic Build Plate.\n\nEssentially, you can use the Replicator G slicing program and there is a setting for \"\"ABP\"\" or Automatic Build Plate. This will basically tell the ABP to run its routine after the controller receives the response that the printing program is done and roll the finished part off the edge of the build plate, then start the same program over again.\n\nDrawbacks:\n\n\nI don't think it's easily compatible with newer machines/slicers. But, it's open source\nPretty sure you have to use Replicator G, which is outdated now and may make your machine sound like it's going to fall apart (I know from experience)\n\n\nGoing off of @Pete's answer about solenoids. It reminded me that someone integrated a solenoid \"\"ejector\"\" (aka Boxing Glove) for their machine.\n\nUpdate (06/08/2016):\n\nForgot to mention that if you choose to create your own \"\"Boxing Glove\"\" or conveyor belt, some software such as Octo-Pi and Repetier-Host allow plugins. So, you could interface with your hardware via customized code and integrate the functionality directly into the slicing application for the full closed loop operation.\n\",3.859531739127555,2.0769199823829045\n83,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,4.356564969431519,4.590028253642861,0.0,4.670422881206417,4.503257053771732,3.4319460411998994,How to automate printing of multiple parts continuously?,\"I would like to print multiple parts continuously (non-interactively), so\nI can leave the printer alone for a longer time. So after finish, parts could be moved somehow out from the printing area, so the next can start.\n\nAre there any methods of achieving that with standard desktop printers without having to use multiple printers?\n\",Pete,\"It would be possible and not too terribly difficult to rig a servo or solenoid with a push plate like a plow, on top of your build plate. \n\nHowever this would require another processor via raspberry pi or arduino to control it. Scripting execution when the print has completed wouldn't be terribly difficult either, but it isn't readily available and certainly isn't part of a mass produced printer. \n\nMy issue with the concept is if you push a bunch of prints off the build plate, what guarantee do you have they wont become damaged in the process?\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n92,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,3.0576060275493275,3.282132985301826,1.7539669625835614,2.011441651225199,1.8746593652159236,2.104288080884247,What type of plastic can be used to produce your own filament?,\"I'm considering purchasing Filabot or some similar filament maker.\n\nWhat kind of plastic can I use to produce my own filament? Can I use any type of plastic or just specific printable filaments? Can I also mix different types of filament together or only one type at a time?\n\",Oleg Mazurov,\"Filament manufacturers (for example, Colorfabb) also sell pellets, price per kilo would be about 10 times less than the same plastic in filament form.\n\nOut of household garbage only ABS can be easily extruded into filament with Filabot-grade machine. PET AKA plastic bottles looks promising as well.\n\nYou can also use certain products \"\"off-label\"\". For example, string trimmer string (line) is simply a nylon filament and can be used as-is in modern diameter-agnostic hot end.\n\",1.6066831703607938,2.0769199823829045\n164,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,3.267423727073639,4.573087342022355,0.0,2.011441651225199,4.091740895605862,4.592941926651472,Can I print my own Lego bricks?,\"Assuming I've 3D design (or I've created one) which looks very similar to Lego bricks, I am allowed to 3D print them for my personal use?\n\nDo I need to obtain some permission to do so, because of some patents? Or how does it work?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The patents that cover Lego bricks have expired, so you are free to print bricks using the same interlocking system. You are even allowed to offer such prints commercially.\n\nWhat is not allowed (and a violation of trademark law) is to call them \"\"Lego bricks\"\" or use Lego's logo. \"\"Compatible with Lego\"\" on the other hand, would be fine.\n\",3.5068404193471867,2.0769199823829045\n168,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,1.0891412423578797,3.2764534681924653,0.0,2.011441651225199,1.1827783713261073,1.3276579603156529,\"I've exported 3D models from the game, can I print them?\",\"Assuming I've extracted 3D models from a game which I legally bought (such as StarCraft). I am allowed to 3D print them for personal use or give it to close friends?\n\nIs there any general rule, or this suppose to be specified in the license? If so, which section/clause potentially can prevent me from doing that? Or I need to contact the company who owns the game to obtain the permission?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"No. Such figures are generally covered by copyright, which means that nobody but the copyright holder is allowed to (re-)produce copies of the work. Copyright also covers personal use. In the US there are limited fair use exceptions but they do not apply here.\n\nThe only way to do this legally is if it is specifically authorized in a license or if you get permission.\n\",1.0137042167431434,2.0769199823829045\n171,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,3.9045305118418514,5.298134376100513,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,3.535506697183007,How to print edible food?,\"I would like to print edible cookies or ornamentation for a cake.\n\nIs printing with edible materials achievable by standard thermoplastic-like 3D desktop printer? Or you need to buy a special printer to do that?\n\",Daniel M.,\"You can, but that doesn't mean it's very easy.\n\nYou don't have to buy a special printer, but you need a special extruder (such as http://www.structur3d.io/). Most of these systems can print anything with the consistency of Nutella. However, many parts of the printer may not be food safe.\n\nAnother option (if you simply want 2d designs) is something like the PancakeBot. It can probably also \"\"print\"\" with anything that has the same consistency of pancake batter.\n\",2.620387387103937,0.0\n171,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,3.9045305118418514,5.298134376100513,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,3.535506697183007,How to print edible food?,\"I would like to print edible cookies or ornamentation for a cake.\n\nIs printing with edible materials achievable by standard thermoplastic-like 3D desktop printer? Or you need to buy a special printer to do that?\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"You cannot print edible models using a \"\"standard\"\" consumer 3D printer without first installing an \"\"hot end\"\" capable of depositing edible - normally thicker - substances as well as a suitable extruder mechanism. \n\nHowever, there are not necessarily any technical limitations in the electronics, software, slicers etc. in a typical printer that wouldn't allow you to install such an upgrade. For instance, you could calibrate your extrusion rate and nozzle width to suit batter and similar.\n\nSome commercial printers, such as the DeltaWASP allow for upgrades that print clay, which wouldn't be very different from printing liquid food.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n181,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,2.528907649931287,5.095079242096823,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.9505769891325135,Can you use PLA material with food and drinks?,\"I would like to print fancy plastic cutlery sets or plastic glasses.\n\nIs it safe to do it? Or bad for your health, if so, why?\n\",Adam Davis,\"Having performed a quick search through all the resources at the FDA Food Contact Substance resource, I cannot find PLA in any list except an occasional notification that a specific manufacturer has obtained approval for use in specific circumstances, with the notice that such notifications are only valid for that manufacturer and cannot be used to validate another use of a substance.\n\nThere are companies that have received approval for their specific formulation and use of PLA as a food contact substance. You may wish to discuss this further with your material supplier to find out if they have approved PLA product available.\n\nWithout specific product approval, though, PLA is not on the lists of generally recognized as safe, nor approved for food contact use.\n\nRegulations in other countries may differ, so you may want to search the EU directives, for instance, to find out their opinion on PLA as an FCS.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n181,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,2.528907649931287,5.095079242096823,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,2.9505769891325135,Can you use PLA material with food and drinks?,\"I would like to print fancy plastic cutlery sets or plastic glasses.\n\nIs it safe to do it? Or bad for your health, if so, why?\n\",Daniel M.,\"As others have pointed out, PLA isn't specifically not food safe, but materials that have been printed previously can contaminate the PLA.\n\nAdditionally, anything 3D printed is extremely porous. Once a part is used for food, moisture and bacteria will accumulate in the pores, and can never be completely cleaned out, contaminating any food that contacts it. It can't be sterilized either, because the temperatures needed for sterilization would deform or melt the plastic.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n2608,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kenorb,2.1782824847157594,4.44624912006446,0.0,2.011441651225199,2.3655567426522146,2.6553159206313057,Possible ways to print soft skin for human robot?,\"Are there any 3D printing filaments or specially designed desktop systems which can print soft artificial skin for human-robot? For example made of soft silicone or something similar?\n\",StarWind0,\"Oh that is a tricky tricky question!\n\nFirst you will probably need a good scan of the robot. You will have the cad of the robot but chances are scanning will make life easier.\n\nhttp://www.3ders.org/articles/20151201-kinect-easy-3d-printing-tool-with-release-of-3d-scan-app-for-windows.html\n\nAlso see Reprap for other options\n\nhttp://reprap.org/wiki/3D_scanning\n\nFollowing... it is not going to be that simple. If it was my project I would\nPrint a mold out of ABS. ABS reacts to acetone and you can vapor treat it.\n\nhttp://www.logarithmic.net/pfh/blog/01366106156\n\n\n\nThat said you might burn your house down. Also it is inconsistent. But would give you a smooth finish. \n\nNext you can do just normal mold printing and be okay with the ribbing. Then you pour your silicon material\n\n\n\nNext you can well just print with silicon. The ninjaflex guys have a ton of different types of flexible materials and new ones coming out. \n\nhttps://ninjatek.com/products/filaments/ninjaflex/\n\n\n\nOn that topic I will mention a local company that I have no direct affiliation with. I just see them at the hacker space. They make a extruder just for flexibles. \n\nhttps://flexionextruder.com/\n\nOther areas to look at. More for making metal but it may be of use.\n\nhttp://www.instructables.com/id/From-3d-printed-part-to-metal-the-lost-plaabs-me/\n\nLast is again the mold but you make the molds on a expensive form 1. Or you make the skin on the form1 as they can do flexibles. Small build area. Material is around 100 a ltr or more\n\nhttp://formlabs.com/products/3d-printers/form-1-plus/\n\nGood luck!\n\nAlso check out this facebook group (no affiliation) \n\nhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/3DPrintProps/\n\nIf anyone has done this it is those guys. Oh Wait No I take that back Look into these fellows. They have a very active group. (google group) not to mention that they are also directly doing what you are.\n\nhttp://inmoov.fr/\n\n\n\n\nJust don't be like this guy and make it look like a movie star... \nhttp://www.mirror.co.uk/news/weird-news/man-builds-scarlet-johansson-robot-7667715\n\",2.0274084334862867,2.0769199823829045\n3,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CJK,4.626593049438165,5.2127529102227,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,3.929104701733314,3.6337541582048245,How important is the minimum layer height on a 3d printer?,\"I know the minimum layer height will effect how detailed of an item you can print and the amount of time it takes to print something, but is it necessary to have an extremely low minimum layer height if you plan to print only larger objects?\n\",tbm0115,\"As with any manufacturing process, you'll need to learn to \"\"use the right tool for the job\"\". It depends on the requirements of the part. To answer your question, I would suggest using a larger layer height for the sheer fact of reducing print time on larger objects.\n\nHowever, it depends on the part and how small the details are on the part. If your part has sharp edges that are required for the proper functionality of the part, then you'll want to use a smaller layer height. Or if your part fits into another part, you'll probably want to use a smaller layer height.\n\nAnother variable might be whether or not post-processing is necessary. Is this part going to be purposefully printed larger/rougher with the idea to use a Dremel later to smooth everything out? If yes, then use a larger layer height.\n\",3.0411126502294303,0.0\n3,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CJK,4.626593049438165,5.2127529102227,2.7799718631987322,4.022883302450398,3.929104701733314,3.6337541582048245,How important is the minimum layer height on a 3d printer?,\"I know the minimum layer height will effect how detailed of an item you can print and the amount of time it takes to print something, but is it necessary to have an extremely low minimum layer height if you plan to print only larger objects?\n\",Tormod Haugene,\"I believe the Slic3r Manual summarizes this quite nicely:\n\n\n A thicker layer height will provide more flow, and consequently more heat, making the extrusion adhere to the bed more. It also gives the benefit of giving more tolerance for the levelness of the bed. It is recommended to raise the first layer height to match the diameter of the nozzle, e.g. a first layer height of 0.35mm for a 0.35mm nozzle.\n\n\nIn other words, larger layer heights for the first layer typically gives better adhesion, and makes inaccurate bed leveling (and auto leveling) still work.\n\",3.367452517504837,2.0769199823829045\n5,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CJK,5.673830510646552,5.334604574391176,4.533938825782293,5.199501240805782,5.745914849350172,4.291867786752632,How is PLA different from ABS material?,\"What are the main differences when using ABS over PLA and vice versa?\n\",Kevin Morse,\"Paraphrasing this site. Feel free to add suggestions in the form of comments and I will try to incorporate them.\n\nSummary\n\n\nABS: Stronger, machinable, more flexible, and more temperature\nresistant than PLA. Typically printed on a heated bed. Warping is a common problem when printing ABS.\nPLA: Wider range of filaments available, easier and in some cases faster to print. Not as strong as ABS and the fact that its biodegradable could be seen as both a benefit and a drawback.\n\n\nMaterial Properties:\n\n\nABS: Strong plastic with mild flexibility. Naturally beige in color. Can be filled and sanded. Higher temperature. Easy to recycle.\nPLA: Not as strong as ABS but more rigid. Naturally transparent. More difficult to fill and sand. Can sag in hot temperatures. Sourced from organic matter so it can be broken down in commercial compost facilities.\n\n\nPart Accuracy:\n\n\nABS: Part warping is a significant issue. Sharp corners will often be rounded.\nPLA: Less heat required contributes to less warping. Becomes more liquid at common extruder temperatures so finer details can be printed.\n\n\nSafety and Handling:\n\n\nABS: Strong burning/melting plastic smell is present when printing ABS. Health concerns have been raised regarding airborne ultrafine particles generated while printing with ABS (ref). ABS will absorb moisture causing popping when the moisture enters the hot end. This leads to discontinuities in the print job.\nPLA: Doesn't smell as strongly when printing due to its organic nature. Moisture can also be absorbed into PLA and can irreversibly damage it.\n\n\",4.924555819618872,2.0769199823829045\n5,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,CJK,5.673830510646552,5.334604574391176,4.533938825782293,5.199501240805782,5.745914849350172,4.291867786752632,How is PLA different from ABS material?,\"What are the main differences when using ABS over PLA and vice versa?\n\",3dsolutech_plafilament,\"Basic facts and tips for using and choosing ABS and PLA materials:\n\nMade from:\n\nABS: Petroleum based\n\nPLA: Corn or other plants\n\n\nSmell: \n\nABS: smell of hot plastic, \n\nPLA: gives off a smell similar to a semi-sweet cooking oil. Less intense smell than ABS. \n\n\nPart Accuracy: \n\nBoth PLA and ABS are capable of building dimensionally accurate parts. However, there are characteristics that we need to memorized.\nABS: will be curling upwards of the surface in direct contact with the 3D printer’s print bed. for fine and delicate features on parts involving sharp corners, such as gears, there will often be a slight rounding of the corner. \nPLA: much less part warping. but it undergoes more of a phase-change when heated and becomes much more liquid. The increased flow can also lead to stronger binding between layer.\n\nRecycling:\n\n\nABS: Recycling number 7, most local recycling programs do not accept ABS. It generally being recycled into plastic lumber. \nPLA: it biodegrades, however the process takes a long time when outside of an industrial composting facility\nWhy we provide a vacuum sealed package for ABS and PLA products? \nlong term exposure to a humid environment without sealed package may result in detrimental effects, both to the printing process and to the quality of finished parts. \n\nABS: will tend to bubble and spurt from the tip of the nozzle when printing, part accuracy, strength are reduced. Raises the risk of clogging the nozzle. ABS can be easily dried by using dry or hot air.\nPLA: bubbles or sporting at the nozzle, also discoloration and a reduction in 3D printed part are found when in long term moisture environment. \nImproving the printing outcomes （Blue tape and Kapton tape pictures)\nPLA: printing temperature approximately: 190°C - 240°C\nABS: printing temperature approximately: 225°C - 250°C (recommend to use a heated print bed)\n\nA good first layer adhesion is of the utmost importance in obtaining the best results for the prints. \n\nUsing Blue Tape or Kapton Tape.\nHairspray the print bed.\nTo attain optimal result for the prints, you need to consider variables such as nozzel diameter, printing speed, and layer height.\nSummary: \nABS: \nA preferred filament for the prints with engineering and professional purposes with its strength, machinability, flexibility, and higher temperature resistance. \nThe bad plastic smell is due to the petroleum based origin. \nRequired a heated print bed to attain ABS printing reliability. \nPLA:\nWide range of available colors, provide translucencies and glossy feel of the prints. \nPlant based and semi-sweet corn like smelling are appreciated over ABS.\nWhen properly cooled, PLA seems to perform higher maximum printing speeds, and sharper printed corners. Combining this with low warping on parts make it a popular plastic for household uses, toys, hobbyists, and educational purposes. \nto know more please visit abs vs pla\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n10,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,1337joe,4.146747269907207,6.065578424358489,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,3.548335113978322,2.2279055228048463,3d printing for outdoor use: what types of filament are most weather resistant?,\"I'd like to print modifications for my birdfeeder, both to patch over the hail damage from last summer and to try to deter the neighborhood squirrels. I have an FDM printer (and experience with nylon, ABS, and PLA, though don't restrict answers to those if there's something else that's better), what kind of filament would stand up best to daily exposure to sun, rain, snow, etc?\n\",Markus Appel,\"I think ABS would be your best bet. It's not biodegradable and realtivley easy to print.\n\nBut you can use more or less any material if you use some form of coating on it. I would always go for coated PLA instead of other materials just because PLA is the easiest to print and it's nontoxic.\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n10,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,1337joe,4.146747269907207,6.065578424358489,1.7539669625835614,5.199501240805782,3.548335113978322,2.2279055228048463,3d printing for outdoor use: what types of filament are most weather resistant?,\"I'd like to print modifications for my birdfeeder, both to patch over the hail damage from last summer and to try to deter the neighborhood squirrels. I have an FDM printer (and experience with nylon, ABS, and PLA, though don't restrict answers to those if there's something else that's better), what kind of filament would stand up best to daily exposure to sun, rain, snow, etc?\n\",ON5MF Jurgen,\"I have several items printed in PLA that have been outdoors for about a year now. Apart from some discoloration I don't see any structural damage (yet?). Some of them are at the south side of a building so they get maximum sunlight.\n\nOf course Belgian summers can not be compared to Arizona summers!\n\",1.0137042167431434,0.0\n13,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kaine,4.541637296610063,3.742219428517731,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,4.731113485304429,3.922162247820266,Resolution Drawbacks,\"With an ABS or PLA extrusion 3D printer, are there any potentially negative quality differences that could occur if I try to print at a higher resolution?\n\nI am not concerned about print time as the equipment is not under high demand. I am, however, worried the device may be more prone to fracture, likely to have defects, or have other issues I cannot currently imagine.\n\",Adam Davis,\"The biggest effect I've see on resolution is due to plastic stress due to thermal gradients.\n\nThe higher resolution prints build up more layers of material, and each layer has a cumulative effect on thermal stress. The upper layers pulling up more as they cool, and the lower layers curling up more strongly as the layer count is increased.\n\nTo counteract this, a heated (or even just a draft free) enclosure makes a big difference. Having a heated print bed helps significantly, as long as the bed itself resists deformation (a sheet metal or PCB bed will bend more than glass under the same tension, for instance).\n\nThe actual plastic strength, however, appears increased. Laying down thinner layers of material appears to increase the bond strength between layers.\n\",4.0548168669725735,2.0769199823829045\n13,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kaine,4.541637296610063,3.742219428517731,1.7539669625835614,4.670422881206417,4.731113485304429,3.922162247820266,Resolution Drawbacks,\"With an ABS or PLA extrusion 3D printer, are there any potentially negative quality differences that could occur if I try to print at a higher resolution?\n\nI am not concerned about print time as the equipment is not under high demand. I am, however, worried the device may be more prone to fracture, likely to have defects, or have other issues I cannot currently imagine.\n\",TextGeek,\"It's also worth noting that the ratio of nozzle diameter to layer height affects strength. The layer height is typically set slightly smaller than the nozzle diameter, so the nozzle \"\"squeezes\"\" the new plastic onto the previous layer. This is especially important for the first layer, because it affects how well the object sticks to the bed; but it also affects inter-layer strength.\n\",2.353748300761693,0.0\n16,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kaine,4.78385405467542,5.763682032868019,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,4.091740895605862,4.345449058359031,Are there any ways to make a 3D print transparent?,\"I am aware of several \"\"clear\"\" filaments for a ABS or PLA printer. They, however, have a cloudy or frosted glass appearance. I do not believe this is possible to eliminate but I believe it can be reduced.\n\nAre there effective ways to make a print have a more transparent appearance?\n\",the third dimension,\"You can make a mold from the print and then get a cast from that mold with a clear casting material.\n\",3.0411126502294303,0.0\n16,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kaine,4.78385405467542,5.763682032868019,1.7539669625835614,4.022883302450398,4.091740895605862,4.345449058359031,Are there any ways to make a 3D print transparent?,\"I am aware of several \"\"clear\"\" filaments for a ABS or PLA printer. They, however, have a cloudy or frosted glass appearance. I do not believe this is possible to eliminate but I believe it can be reduced.\n\nAre there effective ways to make a print have a more transparent appearance?\n\",walter,\"It depends on a lot of factors, type of plastic, whether the parts need to be strong, can you use a vase print, etc. Here's a few thoughts.\n\nPLA - The brand of PLA makes a big difference, some can be printed very clear, some can't. Most of the transparent PLAs I've used print much more clear at around 240°C.\n\nABS - I've seen some pretty impressive clear parts printed as a single layer shell in ABS and then vapor smoothed. I tend to find ABS more translucent and less transparent though.\n\nPETG - Again the specific PETG you use matters, but I haven't seen nearly as much variation as with PLA. I'm not sure how much temperature matters, but if it's too hot you get bubbles which will decrease clarity.\n\nThin Wall Prints - I don't have much experience here, but the Smooth On XTC-3D or vapor smoothing seem to be effective.\n\nSolid Prints\nIf I want transparency, I usually print it at 100% infill (should be a real 100%, too much overextrusion or underextrusion will decrease transparency). Printing slower and with less cooling sometimes helps. It's easier to get the infill solid with a direct drive extruder, I couldn't get decent results with a long bowden tube (a short bowden tube works fine).\n\nHere's a page where I tested 10 transparent filaments, the printed samples are 2mm thick, 100% infill - http://thrinter.com/10-transparent-filaments. Those samples are all overextruded a bit, you can get better results if you dial in the extrusion precisely, but that's hard to get right, and the optimal settings may change slightly depending on the part geometry. Larger nozzles and thicker layers may help to, but I haven't experimented much with that as there are significant downsides to that approach.\n\",3.5068404193471867,2.0769199823829045\n38,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kaine,3.618048892289167,5.189806893897094,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,Conversion of 3 mm ABS filament to 1.75 mm,\"I have a few kg of 3 mm filament when I only have use for 1.75 mm.\n\nHow can I make 1.75 mm from 3 mm filament?\n\",Adam Davis,\"In theory, making filament is easy. You take a 3 mm hotend with a 1.75 mm hole, and extrude the 3 mm (sometimes actually 2.85 mm) filament, let it cool, and then reel it up.\n\nIn reality there are a lot of pitfalls to making filament - if the pressure isn't even, the hole not perfect, the temperature uneven, you can end up with oval filament, filament with bubbles, or worse. If you are over temperature you may damage the filament and it could look good, but not melt correctly when used. If you reel it too fast you may thin it out more than the intended diameter, or too slow and you may thicken it. A lot of hotends use steppers, which may result in ripples in the filament, so you may end up building a nearly custom filament machine.\n\nResolving all these problems is probably not worth simply selling or giving away the filament to someone that can use it, and buying the right size for your machine.\n\nIf you are still interested, though, you might as well go all the way and build a full filament extruder that accepts raw plastic feedstock (usually pellets) as well as your filament, and convert it that way, then continue using it to create your own filament.\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n38,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kaine,3.618048892289167,5.189806893897094,0.0,4.022883302450398,3.320478682445624,3.082726318457765,Conversion of 3 mm ABS filament to 1.75 mm,\"I have a few kg of 3 mm filament when I only have use for 1.75 mm.\n\nHow can I make 1.75 mm from 3 mm filament?\n\",Tom van der Zanden,\"The best option is to find somebody in need of 3 mm filament and trade them for it (either in exchange for 1.75 mm filament or in exchange for legal tender with which to buy said filament).\n\nThe next best option would be to cut it into small pieces, and feed those into a filament extrusion system such as the filastruder.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n401,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kaine,3.618048892289167,5.054288711362341,0.0,2.011441651225199,3.320478682445624,3.7272071097011072,Can general purpose polystryene (not HIPS) be used for 3D printing?,\"High Impact PolyStyrene (HIPS) is a frequently used filament in 3D printing. It has been touted to have simular properties when printed to ABS and is especially useful for support structures (if the user has a multi-nozzle 3d Printer) as it is soluble in Limonene.\n\nGeneral Purpose PolyStyrene (GPPS) is frequently used in disposible cups, cutlery, etc. I don't believe I have seen it as a 3D printing filament. This is not styrofoam for the purpose of this question despite the identical chemical properties as the incorperated air makes it difficult to recycle.\n\nWould filament produced from GPPS, be usable on most FFF 3D printers that are capable of using ABS, PLA, and HIPS? Are that any particular issues observed with such filaments that would not be observed with HIPS (besides the implied decrease in impact resistance)?\n\nNote: For the purpose of this question, I am assuming that the filament can be produced and am concerned about whether the filament would be usable for support structures and infill.\n\",Ryan Carlyle,\"In principle, it should work fine as a filament, since it's used extensively in the plastic extrusion industry, but I don't think you'd get great material properties out of it. ABS and HIPS incorporate polybutadiene into a graft polymer structure for a very good reason: the butadiene sections in the long molecular chains kind of \"\"stick together\"\" as a distinct solid phase to produce what amounts to micro-bubbles of rubber inside a matrix of hard styrene or acrylonitrile-styrene plastic. This compound microstructure is what gives HIPS and ABS favorable impact toughness and some minor flexibility.\n\nThe flexibility is important -- the stiffer a filament is, the more it will tend to warp while printing. Based on chemistry alone, I would expect styrene to be somewhat more prone to warping than ABS. And it would certainly be more brittle. So there doesn't seem to be much reason to use it as filament.\n\nInteresting sidenote: PLA/PHA has very favorable mechanical properties because the PHA forms a very similar flexible microstructure inside the hard PLA matrix. PLA/PHA is good stuff because it mimics ABS and HIPS!\n\",2.845827522384412,2.0769199823829045\n2822,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kaine,3.618048892289167,5.964955580878797,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,What type filament should I use to produce stamps?,\"My wife wants me to use an FFM 3d printer to make custom stamps for her to use on paper (scrap books, letters, etc.). She is convinced, however, that they will be too rigid to make good stamps. A quick google search showed ones made from PLA and ABS. Logically, though, a TPU or similar would address her concerns. A good quality stamp needs to hold ink and make good, even contact with the paper. It would probably need to be able to be sanded or smoothed in some way.\n\nI am supposed to receive my printer next week or so and am trying to get some filaments, STL files, and accessories I will need ready in advance so I can rapidly learn how to use it.\n\",emackey,\"Recently I've experimented with printing some Nylon 618 filament after reading stuff online about it. I'm using a Craftbot original with the stock hotend, keeping the Nylon dry in a ziploc bag. It prints really well, just tricky to get it to stick to the bed (I'm still working on that), but otherwise it's great.\n\nOnce printed, the main difference from PLA prints is the nylon remains more flexible. If you bend a thin nylon print, it tends to just spring back to the shape that came off the printer. That's very different from my PLA prints, which will either stay bent or break apart.\n\nI believe that nylon would be a good material for you to try for stamps, because of this flexibility and shape-preserving quality. The comments show some other materials to try, but I'm limiting my answer here to my own personal experience.\n\",1.6066831703607938,0.0\n2822,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kaine,3.618048892289167,5.964955580878797,2.7799718631987322,3.1880595895805834,3.0574377365420307,2.880918201452841,What type filament should I use to produce stamps?,\"My wife wants me to use an FFM 3d printer to make custom stamps for her to use on paper (scrap books, letters, etc.). She is convinced, however, that they will be too rigid to make good stamps. A quick google search showed ones made from PLA and ABS. Logically, though, a TPU or similar would address her concerns. A good quality stamp needs to hold ink and make good, even contact with the paper. It would probably need to be able to be sanded or smoothed in some way.\n\nI am supposed to receive my printer next week or so and am trying to get some filaments, STL files, and accessories I will need ready in advance so I can rapidly learn how to use it.\n\",Chris Thompson,\"I see three options...\n\n1. Print with a flexible filament:\n\n\nMany options: TPU as you pointed out, the flexible PLA that Tom mentioned, and others. Here's an article with a few options from Matter Hackers\nI'd suggest printing the stamp side down so you get a nice flat stamp with no post processing. For any wide gaps, mind your bridging...use fillets or chamfers so the \"\"roof\"\" of the gap is an upside down V or U shape.\n\n\n2. Print with any hard filament, but use a rubber mat under the paper.\n\n\nThe idea here is to use a semi-flexible surface under the paper to help get uniform contact pressure between the paper and the hard stamp. As long as your stamp holds ink, this should work okay.\n\n\n3. Print your stamp shape, then use it to make a rubber stamp.\n\n\nMaking a model and then copying it with your desired non-printable material is a common manufacturing technique that can be used in many situations. Use of molds for casting and related processes can really expand your possibilities. Check out Smooth On. They have several rubber and flexible compounds that you could use for stamps.\n\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n2843,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kaine,2.8153892694839717,3.947711316851944,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.4319460411998994,3D printing related safety precautions for a baby rattle,\"I've a friend who is expecting. There are several adorable weapon themed rattles on thingiverse. I am, however, concerned about safety associated with such a product in the hands of a baby who will gnaw on it. To me the safety concerns here are much larger than for most food handling applications.\n\nWhat steps should be taken to ensure such a print is safe for use?\n\nThis includes: filament selection, pea material selection, wall thickness, smoothing, construction, etc.\n\nMy current thoughts are as follows: \"\"food grade PLA\"\", dried peas, sanding, and single piece construction\n\",Chris Thompson,\"You're on the right track. Since you asked for \"\"steps\"\" here you go:\n\nStep 1. Choose a safe material: \n\nConsider chemical safety and physical safety. Food grade PLA should be chemically safe, but could be too brittle depending on the design you choose. PETG, T-Glase, or similar filaments (depending on dye) are normally also chemically safe and are less brittle than PLA so may be a better alternative. ABS is NOT typically considered safe for food contact.\n\nStep 2. Choose a safe design: \n\nIf using PLA, be sure the design is robust enough to ensure it won't break. Broken rattles with sharp edges make baby...sad. Even less brittle filaments can still break with jagged edges if the design is fragile.\n\nStep 2a. Choose a single piece design: \n\nChoose a design that requires you to add the peas (or other safe filler) during the print such that the finished rattle is fully enclosed. This will minimize parts becoming loose or peas spilling and minimize choke hazards.\n\nStep 3. Consider post processing to improve safety:\n\nSanding could reduce ridges and minimize crevices that could harbor bacteria, but sealing it with a food-safe sealant may be more effective. There are many sealants that the FDA considers safe, but polyurethane or food-safe epoxy finishes will work well with PLA. (If you use a different material, test to verify good adhesion.)\n\nStep 4. Test:\n\nMake a test rattle and run it through the paces. I guess you could chew on it, but since babies don't have teeth, this might invalidate your data...\n\nStep 5. Consider alternatives such as professional printing services:\n\nIf your tests don't inspire confidence, professional services can offer additional materials (metals, ceramics, etc.) that could be safer than a typical fused filament printer.\n\",3.0411126502294303,2.0769199823829045\n2843,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,kaine,2.8153892694839717,3.947711316851944,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.548335113978322,3.4319460411998994,3D printing related safety precautions for a baby rattle,\"I've a friend who is expecting. There are several adorable weapon themed rattles on thingiverse. I am, however, concerned about safety associated with such a product in the hands of a baby who will gnaw on it. To me the safety concerns here are much larger than for most food handling applications.\n\nWhat steps should be taken to ensure such a print is safe for use?\n\nThis includes: filament selection, pea material selection, wall thickness, smoothing, construction, etc.\n\nMy current thoughts are as follows: \"\"food grade PLA\"\", dried peas, sanding, and single piece construction\n\",Jeff Standen,\"Also consider the nozzle on your printer. Most nozzles are made of brass, which is not considered food safe due to the presence of small amounts of lead. Stainless steel nozzles are available which will not perform quite as well as brass but are food safe.\n\",2.0274084334862867,0.0\n22,3dprinting.stackexchange.com,André Teixeira,3.767809650974757,4.80139842049913,0.0,3.1880595895805834,3.320478682445624,3.585260288142579,Is the weather a problem for MDF frames?,\"I've acquired all the parts to build a Reprap Prusa i3 rework, the only missing part is the frame. \n\nI'm in doubt between a MDF cut (cheaper) or acrylic (more expensive), of course a cheaper one is my preferred option until I see any disadvantage on making it of wood. \n\nI thought about variables like heat and humidity and the possibility of expansion/contraction of the frame, is this a valid concern? Will I have more precision buying the acrylic one or is it irrelevant?\n\",Dani Epstein,\"Generally speaking, MDF will weather OK. In areas of high humidity you might experience warpage, but you can mitigate that by sealing the surface with paint or varnish. However you will probably find that of the two materials, acrylic will be more stable over a few years.\n\",2.620387387103937,2.0769199823829045\n" }, { "path": "input/stackx-base-cased/config.json", "content": "{\"output_attentions\": false, \"output_hidden_states\": false, \"output_past\": true, \"torchscript\": false, \"use_bfloat16\": false, \"pruned_heads\": {}, \"is_decoder\": false, \"finetuning_task\": null, \"num_labels\": 2, \"vocab_size\": 110000, \"hidden_size\": 768, \"num_hidden_layers\": 12, \"num_attention_heads\": 12, \"hidden_act\": \"gelu\", \"intermediate_size\": 3072, \"hidden_dropout_prob\": 0.1, \"attention_probs_dropout_prob\": 0.1, \"max_position_embeddings\": 512, \"type_vocab_size\": 2, \"initializer_range\": 0.02, \"layer_norm_eps\": 1e-12}" }, { "path": "input/stackx-base-cased/stackx-base-cased-config.json", "content": "{\"output_attentions\": false, \"output_hidden_states\": false, \"output_past\": true, \"torchscript\": false, \"use_bfloat16\": false, \"pruned_heads\": {}, \"is_decoder\": false, \"finetuning_task\": null, \"num_labels\": 2, \"vocab_size\": 110000, \"hidden_size\": 768, \"num_hidden_layers\": 12, \"num_attention_heads\": 12, \"hidden_act\": \"gelu\", \"intermediate_size\": 3072, \"hidden_dropout_prob\": 0.1, \"attention_probs_dropout_prob\": 0.1, \"max_position_embeddings\": 512, \"type_vocab_size\": 2, \"initializer_range\": 0.02, \"layer_norm_eps\": 1e-12}" }, { "path": "input/stackx-base-cased/stackx-base-cased-vocab.txt", "content": "[PAD]\n[unused1]\n[unused2]\n[unused3]\n[unused4]\n[unused5]\n[unused6]\n[unused7]\n[unused8]\n[unused9]\n[unused10]\n[unused11]\n[unused12]\n[unused13]\n[unused14]\n[unused15]\n[unused16]\n[unused17]\n[unused18]\n[unused19]\n[unused20]\n[unused21]\n[unused22]\n[unused23]\n[unused24]\n[unused25]\n[unused26]\n[unused27]\n[unused28]\n[unused29]\n[unused30]\n[unused31]\n[unused32]\n[unused33]\n[unused34]\n[unused35]\n[unused36]\n[unused37]\n[unused38]\n[unused39]\n[unused40]\n[unused41]\n[unused42]\n[unused43]\n[unused44]\n[unused45]\n[unused46]\n[unused47]\n[unused48]\n[unused49]\n[unused50]\n[unused51]\n[unused52]\n[unused53]\n[unused54]\n[unused55]\n[unused56]\n[unused57]\n[unused58]\n[unused59]\n[unused60]\n[unused61]\n[unused62]\n[unused63]\n[unused64]\n[unused65]\n[unused66]\n[unused67]\n[unused68]\n[unused69]\n[unused70]\n[unused71]\n[unused72]\n[unused73]\n[unused74]\n[unused75]\n[unused76]\n[unused77]\n[unused78]\n[unused79]\n[unused80]\n[unused81]\n[unused82]\n[unused83]\n[unused84]\n[unused85]\n[unused86]\n[unused87]\n[unused88]\n[unused89]\n[unused90]\n[unused91]\n[unused92]\n[unused93]\n[unused94]\n[unused95]\n[unused96]\n[unused97]\n[unused98]\n[unused99]\n[UNK]\n[CLS]\n[SEP]\n[MASK]\n[unused100]\n[unused101]\n!\n\"\n#\n$\n%\n&\n'\n(\n)\n*\n+\n,\n-\n.\n/\n0\n1\n2\n3\n4\n5\n6\n7\n8\n9\n:\n;\n<\n=\n>\n?\n@\nA\nB\nC\nD\nE\nF\nG\nH\nI\nJ\nK\nL\nM\nN\nO\nP\nQ\nR\nS\nT\nU\nV\nW\nX\nY\nZ\n[\n\\\n]\n^\n_\n`\na\nb\nc\nd\ne\nf\ng\nh\ni\nj\nk\nl\nm\nn\no\np\nq\nr\ns\nt\nu\nv\nw\nx\ny\nz\n{\n|\n}\n~\n¡\n¢\n£\n¥\n§\n¨\n©\nª\n«\n¬\n®\n°\n±\n²\n³\n´\nµ\n¶\n·\n¹\nº\n»\n¼\n½\n¾\n¿\nÀ\nÁ\nÂ\nÄ\nÅ\nÆ\nÇ\nÈ\nÉ\nÍ\nÎ\nÑ\nÓ\nÖ\n×\nØ\nÚ\nÜ\nÞ\nß\nà\ná\nâ\nã\nä\nå\næ\nç\nè\né\nê\në\nì\ní\nî\nï\nð\nñ\nò\nó\nô\nõ\nö\n÷\nø\nù\nú\nû\nü\ný\nþ\nÿ\nĀ\nā\nă\ną\nĆ\nć\nČ\nč\nď\nĐ\nđ\nē\nė\nę\ně\nğ\nġ\nĦ\nħ\nĩ\nĪ\nī\nİ\nı\nļ\nĽ\nľ\nŁ\nł\nń\nņ\nň\nŋ\nŌ\nō\nŏ\nő\nŒ\nœ\nř\nŚ\nś\nŞ\nş\nŠ\nš\nŢ\nţ\nť\nũ\nū\nŭ\nů\nű\nų\nŵ\nŷ\nź\nŻ\nż\nŽ\nž\nƏ\nƒ\nơ\nư\nǎ\nǐ\nǒ\nǔ\nǫ\nȘ\nș\nȚ\nț\nɐ\nɑ\nɔ\nɕ\nə\nɛ\nɡ\nɣ\nɨ\nɪ\nɲ\nɾ\nʀ\nʁ\nʂ\nʃ\nʊ\nʋ\nʌ\nʐ\nʑ\nʒ\nʔ\nʰ\nʲ\nʳ\nʷ\nʻ\nʼ\nʾ\nʿ\nˈ\nː\nˡ\nˢ\nˣ\ń\ñ\n̍\n̯\n͡\nΑ\nΒ\nΓ\nΔ\nΕ\nΗ\nΘ\nΙ\nΚ\nΛ\nΜ\nΝ\nΟ\nΠ\nΣ\nΤ\nΦ\nΧ\nΨ\nΩ\nά\nέ\nή\nί\nα\nβ\nγ\nδ\nε\nζ\nη\nθ\nι\nκ\nλ\nμ\nν\nξ\nο\nπ\nρ\nς\nσ\nτ\nυ\nφ\nχ\nψ\nω\nό\nύ\nώ\nІ\nЈ\nА\nБ\nВ\nГ\nД\nЕ\nЖ\nЗ\nИ\nК\nЛ\nМ\nН\nО\nП\nР\nС\nТ\nУ\nФ\nХ\nЦ\nЧ\nШ\nЭ\nЮ\nЯ\nа\nб\nв\nг\nд\nе\nж\nз\nи\nй\nк\nл\nм\nн\nо\nп\nр\nс\nт\nу\nф\nх\nц\nч\nш\nщ\nъ\nы\nь\nэ\nю\nя\nё\nі\nї\nј\nњ\nћ\nԱ\nՀ\nա\nե\nի\nկ\nմ\nյ\nն\nո\nս\nտ\nր\nւ\nְ\nִ\nֵ\nֶ\nַ\nָ\nֹ\nּ\nא\nב\nג\nד\nה\nו\nז\nח\nט\nי\nכ\nל\nם\nמ\nן\nנ\nס\nע\nפ\nצ\nק\nר\nש\nת\n،\nء\nآ\nأ\nإ\nئ\nا\nب\nة\nت\nث\nج\nح\nخ\nد\nذ\nر\nز\nس\nش\nص\nض\nط\nظ\nع\nغ\nف\nق\nك\nل\nم\nن\nه\nو\nى\nي\nَ\nِ\nٹ\nپ\nچ\nک\nگ\nہ\nی\nے\nं\nआ\nक\nग\nच\nज\nण\nत\nद\nध\nन\nप\nब\nभ\nम\nय\nर\nल\nव\nश\nष\nस\nह\nा\nि\nी\nु\nे\nो\n्\n।\n॥\nআ\nই\nএ\nও\nক\nখ\nগ\nচ\nছ\nজ\nট\nত\nথ\nদ\nধ\nন\nপ\nব\nম\nয\nর\nল\nশ\nস\nহ\n়\nা\nি\nী\nু\nে\nো\n্\nয়\nக\nத\nப\nம\nய\nர\nல\nவ\nா\nி\nு\n்\nร\n་\nག\nང\nད\nན\nབ\nམ\nར\nལ\nས\nི\nུ\nེ\nོ\nა\nე\nი\nლ\nნ\nო\nრ\nს\nᴬ\nᴵ\nᵀ\nᵃ\nᵇ\nᵈ\nᵉ\nᵍ\nᵏ\nᵐ\nᵒ\nᵖ\nᵗ\nᵘ\nᵢ\nᵣ\nᵤ\nᵥ\nᶜ\nᶠ\nḍ\nḤ\nḥ\nḨ\nḩ\nḳ\nṃ\nṅ\nṇ\nṛ\nṣ\nṭ\nạ\nả\nấ\nầ\nẩ\nậ\nắ\nế\nề\nể\nễ\nệ\nị\nọ\nố\nồ\nổ\nộ\nớ\nờ\nợ\nụ\nủ\nứ\nừ\nử\nữ\nự\nỳ\nỹ\nἀ\nἐ\nὁ\nὐ\nὰ\nὶ\nὸ\nῆ\nῖ\nῦ\nῶ\n‐\n‑\n‒\n–\n—\n―\n‖\n‘\n’\n‚\n“\n”\n„\n†\n‡\n•\n…\n‰\n′\n″\n⁄\n⁰\nⁱ\n⁴\n⁵\n⁶\n⁷\n⁸\n⁹\n⁺\n⁻\nⁿ\n₀\n₁\n₂\n₃\n₄\n₅\n₆\n₇\n₈\n₉\n₊\n₍\n₎\nₐ\nₑ\nₒ\nₓ\nₕ\nₖ\nₘ\nₙ\nₚ\nₛ\nₜ\n₤\n€\n₱\n₹\nℓ\n№\nℝ\n⅓\n←\n↑\n→\n↔\n⇌\n⇒\n∂\n∈\n−\n∗\n∘\n√\n∞\n∧\n∨\n∩\n∪\n≈\n≠\n≡\n≤\n≥\n⊂\n⊆\n⊕\n⋅\n─\n│\n■\n●\n★\n☆\n☉\n♠\n♣\n♥\n♦\n♭\n♯\n⟨\n⟩\nⱼ\n、\n。\n《\n》\n「\n」\n『\n』\n〜\nい\nう\nえ\nお\nか\nき\nく\nけ\nこ\nさ\nし\nす\nせ\nそ\nた\nち\nつ\nて\nと\nな\nに\nの\nは\nひ\nま\nみ\nむ\nめ\nも\nや\nゆ\nよ\nら\nり\nる\nれ\nん\nア\nィ\nイ\nウ\nエ\nオ\nカ\nガ\nキ\nク\nグ\nコ\nサ\nシ\nジ\nス\nズ\nタ\nダ\nッ\nテ\nデ\nト\nド\nナ\nニ\nハ\nバ\nパ\nフ\nブ\nプ\nマ\nミ\nム\nャ\nュ\nラ\nリ\nル\nレ\nロ\nン\n・\nー\n一\n三\n上\n下\n中\n事\n二\n井\n京\n人\n亻\n仁\n佐\n侍\n光\n公\n力\n北\n十\n南\n原\n口\n史\n司\n吉\n同\n和\n囗\n国\n國\n土\n城\n士\n大\n天\n太\n夫\n女\n子\n宀\n安\n宮\n宿\n小\n尚\n山\n島\n川\n州\n平\n年\n心\n愛\n戸\n文\n新\n方\n日\n明\n星\n書\n月\n木\n本\n李\n村\n東\n松\n林\n正\n武\n氏\n水\n氵\n江\n河\n海\n版\n犬\n王\n生\n田\n白\n皇\n省\n真\n石\n社\n神\n竹\n美\n義\n花\n藤\n西\n谷\n車\n辶\n道\n郎\n郡\n部\n野\n金\n長\n門\n陽\n青\n食\n馬\n高\n龍\n龸\n사\n씨\n의\n이\n한\nfi\nfl\n！\n（\n）\n，\n－\n／\n：\nthe\nof\nand\nto\nin\nwas\nThe\nis\nfor\nas\non\nwith\nthat\n##s\nhis\nby\nhe\nat\nfrom\nit\nher\nHe\nhad\nan\nwere\nyou\nbe\nIn\nshe\nare\nbut\nwhich\nIt\nnot\nor\nhave\nmy\nhim\none\nthis\nme\nhas\nalso\nup\ntheir\nfirst\nout\nwho\nbeen\nthey\nShe\ninto\nall\nwould\nits\n##ing\ntime\ntwo\n##a\n##e\nsaid\nabout\nwhen\nover\nmore\nother\ncan\nafter\nback\nthem\nthen\n##ed\nthere\nlike\nso\nonly\n##n\ncould\n##d\n##i\n##y\nwhat\nno\n##o\nwhere\nThis\nmade\nthan\nif\nYou\n##ly\nthrough\nwe\nbefore\n##r\njust\nsome\n##er\nyears\ndo\nNew\n##t\ndown\nbetween\nnew\nnow\nwill\nthree\nmost\nOn\naround\nyear\nused\nsuch\nbeing\nwell\nduring\nThey\nknow\nagainst\nunder\nlater\ndid\npart\nknown\noff\nwhile\nHis\nre\n...\n##l\npeople\nuntil\nway\nAmerican\ndidn\nUni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partment\ntable\nMusic\ncurrent\n31\nfeatures\nspecial\nevents\ncharacter\nTwo\nsquare\nsold\ndebut\n##v\nprocess\nAlthough\nSince\n##ka\n40\nCentral\ncurrently\neducation\nplaced\nlot\nChina\nquickly\nforward\nseven\n##ling\nEurope\narm\nperformed\nJapanese\n1991\nHenry\nNow\nDr\n##ion\nweek\nGroup\nmyself\nbig\nUK\nWashington\nten\ndeep\n1990\nClub\nJapan\nspace\nLa\ndirected\nsmile\nepisode\nhours\nwhole\n##de\n##less\nWhy\nwouldn\ndesigned\nstrong\ntraining\nchanged\nSociety\nstage\ninvolved\nhadn\ntowards\nleading\npolice\neight\nkept\nInstitute\nstudy\nlargest\nchild\neventually\nprivate\nmodern\nCourt\nthroughout\ngetting\noriginally\nattack\n##E\ntalk\nGreat\nlonger\nsongs\nalone\n##ine\nwide\ndead\nwalked\nshot\n##ri\nOh\nforce\n##st\nArt\ntoday\nfriends\nIsland\nRichard\n1989\ncenter\nconstruction\nbelieve\nsize\nWhite\nship\ncompleted\n##B\ngone\nJust\nrock\nsat\n##R\nradio\nbelow\nentire\nfamilies\nleague\nincludes\ntype\nlived\nofficial\nrange\nhold\nfeatured\nMost\n##ter\npresident\npassed\nmeans\n##f\nforces\nlips\nMary\nDo\nguitar\n##ce\nfood\nwall\nOf\nspent\nIts\nperformance\nhear\n##P\nWestern\nreported\nsister\n##et\nmorning\n##M\nespecially\n##ive\nMinister\nitself\npost\nbit\ngroups\n1988\n##tion\nBlack\n##ng\nWell\nraised\nsometimes\nCanadian\nParis\nSpanish\nreplaced\nschools\nAcademy\nleaving\ncentral\nfemale\nChristian\nJack\nwhose\ncollege\nonto\nprovided\n##D\n##ville\nplayers\nactually\nstopped\n##son\nMuseum\ndoesn\n##ts\nbooks\nfight\nallowed\n##ur\nbeginning\nRecords\nawarded\nparents\ncoach\n##os\nRed\nsaying\n##ck\nSmith\nYes\nLake\n##L\naircraft\n1987\n##ble\nprevious\nft\naction\nItalian\nAfrican\nhappened\nvocals\nAct\nfuture\ncourt\n##ge\n1986\ndegree\nphone\n##ro\nIs\ncountries\nwinning\nbreath\nLove\nriver\nmatter\nLord\nOther\nlist\nself\nparts\n##ate\nprovide\ncut\nshows\nplan\n1st\ninterest\n##ized\nAfrica\nstated\nSir\nfell\nowned\nearlier\nended\ncompetition\nattention\n1985\nlower\nnearly\nbad\nolder\nstay\nSaint\n##se\ncertain\n1984\nfingers\nblue\ntry\nfourth\nGrand\n##as\nking\n##nt\nmakes\nchest\nmovement\nstates\nmoving\ndata\nintroduced\nmodel\ndate\nsection\nLos\ndeal\n##I\nskin\nentered\nmiddle\nsuccess\nTexas\n##w\nsummer\nisland\n##N\nRepublic\nlength\nhusband\n1980\n##ey\nreason\nanyone\nforced\nvia\nbase\n500\njob\ncovered\nFestival\nRoman\nsuccessful\nrights\ncover\nMan\nwriting\nIreland\n##F\nrelated\ngoal\ntakes\nbuildings\ntrue\nweeks\n1983\nBecause\nopening\nnovel\nISBN\nmeet\ngold\n##ous\nmid\nkm²\nstanding\nFootball\nChicago\nshook\nwhom\n##ki\n1982\nDay\nfeeling\nscored\nboy\nhigher\nForce\nleader\nheavy\nfall\nquestion\nsense\narmy\nSecond\nenergy\nmeeting\nthemselves\nkill\n##am\nboard\ncensus\n##ya\n##ns\nmine\nmeant\nmarket\nrequired\nbattle\ncampaign\nattended\napproximately\nKingdom\nruns\nactive\n##ha\ncontract\nclear\npreviously\nhealth\n1979\nArts\ncomplete\nCatholic\ncouple\nunits\n##ll\n##ty\nCommittee\nshoulder\nsea\nsystems\nlisted\n##O\ncaught\ntournament\n##G\nnorthern\nauthor\nFilm\nYour\n##men\nholding\noffered\npersonal\n1981\nsouthern\nartist\ntraditional\nstudio\n200\ncapital\n##ful\nregular\nask\ngiving\norganization\nmonth\nnews\nAre\nread\nmanaged\nhelped\nstudied\nstudent\ndefeated\nnatural\nindustry\nYear\nnoted\ndecision\nGovernment\nquite\n##id\nsmiled\n1972\nMaybe\ntracks\n##ke\nMark\nal\nmedia\nengine\nhour\nTheir\nrelationship\nplays\nproperty\nstructure\n1976\nago\nHill\nMartin\n1978\nready\nMany\nLike\nBay\nimmediately\ngenerally\nItaly\nGreek\npractice\ncaused\ndivision\nsignificant\nJoseph\nspeed\nLet\nthinking\ncompletely\n1974\nprimary\nmostly\n##field\n##K\n1975\n##to\nEven\nwriter\n##led\ndropped\nmagazine\ncollection\nunderstand\nroute\nhighest\nparticular\nfilms\nlines\nnetwork\nScience\nloss\ncarried\ndirection\ngreen\n1977\nlocation\nproducer\naccording\nWomen\nQueen\nneck\nthus\nindependent\nview\n1970\nAngeles\nSoviet\ndistance\nproblem\nBoard\ntour\nwestern\nincome\nappearance\naccess\nMexico\nnodded\nstreet\nsurface\narrived\nbelieved\nOld\n1968\n1973\nbecoming\nwhether\n1945\nfigure\nsinger\nstand\nFollowing\nissue\nwindow\nwrong\npain\neveryone\nlives\nissues\npark\nslowly\nla\nact\n##va\nbring\nLee\noperations\nkey\ncomes\nfine\ncold\nfamous\nNavy\n1971\nMe\nadditional\nindividual\n##ner\nZealand\ngoals\ncounty\ncontains\nService\nminute\n2nd\nreach\ntalking\nparticularly\n##ham\nmovie\nDirector\nglass\npaper\nstudies\n##co\nrailway\nstandard\nEducation\n45\nrepresented\nChief\nLouis\nlaunched\nStar\nterms\n60\n1969\nexperience\nwatched\nAnother\nPress\nTom\nstaff\nstarting\nsubject\nbreak\nVirginia\nnine\neye\n##age\nevidence\nfoot\n##est\ncompanies\nPrince\n##V\ngun\ncreate\nBig\nPeople\nguy\nGreen\nsimply\nnumerous\n##line\nincreased\ntwenty\n##ga\n##do\n1967\naward\nofficer\nstone\nBefore\nmaterial\nNorthern\ngrew\nmale\nplant\nLife\nlegs\nstep\nAl\nunit\n35\nexcept\nanswer\n##U\nreport\nresponse\nEdward\ncommercial\nedition\ntrade\nscience\n##ca\nIrish\nLaw\nshown\nrate\nfailed\n##ni\nrema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ball\nhorse\nways\nquestions\nprotect\ngas\nactivity\nyounger\nbottom\nfounder\nScottish\nscreen\ntreatment\neasily\ncom\n##house\ndedicated\nMaster\nwarm\nNight\nGeorgia\nLong\nvon\n##me\nperfect\nwebsite\n1960s\npiano\nefforts\n##ide\nTony\nsort\noffers\nDevelopment\nSimon\nexecutive\n##nd\nsave\nOver\nSenate\n1951\n1990s\ndraw\nmaster\nPolice\n##ius\nrenamed\nboys\ninitial\nprominent\ndamage\nCo\n##ov\n##za\nonline\nbegin\noccurred\ncaptured\nyouth\nTop\naccount\ntells\nJustice\nconducted\nforest\n##town\nbought\nteeth\nJersey\n##di\npurchased\nagreement\nMichigan\n##ure\ncampus\nprison\nbecomes\nproduct\nsecret\nguess\nRoute\nhuge\ntypes\ndrums\n64\nsplit\ndefeat\nestate\nhousing\n##ot\nbrothers\nCoast\ndeclared\nhappen\ntitled\ntherefore\nsun\ncommonly\nalongside\nStadium\nlibrary\nHome\narticle\nsteps\ntelling\nslow\nassigned\nrefused\nlaughed\nwants\nNick\nwearing\nRome\nOpen\n##ah\nHospital\npointed\nTaylor\nlifted\nescape\nparticipated\n##j\ndrama\nparish\nSanta\n##per\norganized\nmass\npick\nAirport\ngets\nLibrary\nunable\npull\nLive\n##ging\nsurrounding\n##ries\nfocused\nAdam\nfacilities\n##ning\n##ny\n38\n##ring\nnotable\nera\nconnected\ngained\noperating\nlaid\nRegiment\nbranch\ndefined\nChristmas\nmachine\nFour\nacademic\nIran\nadopted\nconcept\nMen\ncompared\nsearch\ntraffic\nMax\nMaria\ngreater\n##ding\nwidely\n##burg\nserves\n1938\n37\nGo\nhotel\nshared\ntypically\nscale\n1936\nleg\nsuffered\nyards\npieces\nMinistry\nWilson\nepisodes\nempty\n1918\nsafety\ncontinues\nyellow\nhistoric\nsettlement\n400\nCome\nCorporation\nenemy\ncontent\npicture\nevening\nterritory\nmethod\ntrial\nsolo\ndriver\nHere\n##ls\nentrance\nPrize\nspring\nwhatever\n##ent\n75\n##ji\nreading\nArthur\n##cy\nOur\nclothes\nPrime\nIllinois\nKong\ncode\n##ria\nsit\nHarry\nFederal\nchosen\nadministration\nbodies\nbegins\nstomach\nThough\nseats\nHong\ndensity\nSun\nleaders\nField\nmuseum\nchart\nplatform\nlanguages\n##ron\nbirth\nholds\nGold\n##un\nfish\ncombined\n##ps\n4th\n1937\nlargely\ncaptain\ntrust\nGame\nvan\nboat\nOxford\nbasic\nbeneath\nIslands\npainting\nnice\nToronto\npath\nmales\nsources\nblock\nconference\nparties\nmurder\nclubs\ncrowd\ncalling\nAbout\nBusiness\npeace\nknows\nlake\nspeaking\nstayed\nBrazil\nallowing\nBorn\nunique\nthick\nTechnology\n##que\nreceive\ndes\nsemi\nalive\nnoticed\nformat\n##ped\ncoffee\ndigital\n##ned\nhanded\nguard\ntall\nfaced\nsetting\nplants\npartner\nclaim\nreduced\ntemple\nanimals\ndetermined\nclasses\n##out\nestimated\n##ad\nOlympic\nproviding\nMassachusetts\nlearned\nInc\nPhiladelphia\nSocial\ncarry\n42\npossibly\nhosted\ntonight\nrespectively\nToday\nshape\nMount\nroles\ndesignated\nbrain\netc\nKorea\nthoughts\nBrian\nHighway\ndoors\nbackground\ndrew\nmodels\nfootballer\ntone\nturns\n1935\nquiet\ntower\nwood\nbus\nwrite\nsoftware\nweapons\nflat\nmarked\n1920\nnewly\ntight\nEric\nfinger\nJournal\nFC\nVan\nrise\ncritical\nAtlantic\ngranted\nreturning\ncommunities\nhumans\nquick\n39\n48\nranked\nsight\npop\nSwedish\nStephen\ncard\nanalysis\nattacked\n##wa\nSunday\nidentified\nJason\nchampion\nsituated\n1930\nexpanded\ntears\n##nce\nreaching\nDavis\nprotection\nEmperor\npositions\nnominated\nBridge\ntax\ndress\nallows\navoid\nleadership\nkilling\nactress\nguest\nsteel\nknowing\nelectric\ncells\ndisease\ngrade\nunknown\n##ium\nresulted\nPakistan\nconfirmed\n##ged\ntongue\ncovers\n##Y\nroof\nentirely\napplied\nvotes\ndrink\ninterview\nexchange\nTownship\nreasons\n##ised\npage\ncalls\ndog\nagent\nnose\nteaching\n##ds\n##ists\nadvanced\nwish\nGolden\nexisting\nvehicle\ndel\n1919\ndevelop\nattacks\npressed\nSports\nplanning\nresulting\nfacility\nSarah\nnotes\n1933\nClass\nHistoric\nwinter\n##mo\naudience\nCommunity\nhousehold\nNetherlands\ncreation\n##ize\nkeeping\n1914\nclaims\ndry\nguys\nopposite\n##ak\nexplained\nOntario\nsecondary\ndifference\nFrancis\nactions\norganizations\nyard\nanimal\nUp\nLewis\ntitles\nSeveral\n1934\nRyan\n55\nSupreme\nrolled\n1917\ndistribution\nfigures\nafraid\nrural\nyourself\n##rt\nsets\nbarely\nInstead\npassing\nawards\n41\nsilence\nauthority\noccupied\nenvironment\nwindows\nengineering\nsurprised\nflying\ncrime\nreports\nMountain\npowers\ndriving\nsucceeded\nreviews\n1929\nHead\nmissing\nSong\nJesus\nopportunity\ninspired\nends\nalbums\nconversation\nimpact\ninjury\nsurprise\nbillion\nlearning\nheavily\noldest\nunion\ncreating\n##ky\nfestival\nliterature\nletters\nsexual\n##tte\napartment\nFinal\ncomedy\nnation\norders\n##sen\ncontemporary\nPower\ndrawn\nexistence\nconnection\n##ating\nPost\nJunior\nremembered\nmessage\nMedal\ncastle\nnote\nengineer\nsounds\nBeach\ncrossed\n##dy\near\nscientific\nsales\n##ai\ntheme\nstarts\nclearly\n##ut\ntrouble\n##gan\nbag\n##han\nBC\nsons\n1928\nsilent\nversions\ndaily\nStudies\nending\nRose\nguns\n1932\nheadquarters\nreference\nobtained\nSquadron\nconcert\nnone\ndu\nAmong\n##don\nprevent\nMember\nanswered\nstaring\nBetween\n##lla\nportion\ndrug\nliked\nassociation\nperformances\nNations\nformation\nCastle\nlose\nlear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ntravels\nsamples\naccurate\nphysically\nSony\nNashville\n##sville\n##lic\n##og\nProducer\nLucky\ntough\nStanford\nresort\nrepeatedly\neyebrows\nFar\nchoir\ncommenced\n##ep\n##ridge\nrage\nswing\nsequel\nheir\nbuses\nad\nGrove\n##late\n##rick\nupdated\n##SA\nDelaware\n##fa\nAthletics\nwarmth\nOff\nexcitement\nverse\nProtection\nVilla\ncorruption\nintellectual\nJenny\n##lyn\nmystery\nprayer\nhealthy\n##ologist\nBear\nlab\nErnest\nRemix\nregister\nbasement\nMontgomery\nconsistent\ntier\n1855\nPreston\nBrooks\n##maker\nvocalist\nlaboratory\ndelayed\nwheels\nrope\nbachelor\npitcher\nBlock\nNevertheless\nsuspect\nefficiency\nNebraska\nsiege\nFBI\nplanted\n##AC\nNewton\nbreeding\n##ain\neighteen\nArgentine\nencounter\nservant\n1858\nelder\nShadow\nEpisode\nfabric\ndoctors\nsurvival\nremoval\nchemistry\nvolunteers\nKane\nvariant\narrives\nEagle\nLeft\n##fe\nJo\ndivorce\n##ret\nyesterday\nBryan\nhandling\ndiseases\ncustomer\nSheriff\nTiger\nHarper\n##oi\nresting\nLinda\nSheffield\ngasped\nsexy\neconomics\nalien\ntale\nfootage\nLiberty\nyeah\nfundamental\nGround\nflames\nActress\nphotographer\nMaggie\nAdditional\njoke\ncustom\nSurvey\nAbu\nsilk\nconsumption\nEllis\nbread\n##uous\nengagement\nputs\nDog\n##hr\npoured\nguilt\nCDP\nboxes\nhardware\nclenched\n##cio\nstem\narena\nextending\n##com\nexamination\nSteel\nencountered\nrevised\n140\npicking\nCar\nhasn\nMinor\npride\nRoosevelt\nboards\n##mia\nblocked\ncurious\ndrag\nnarrative\nbrigade\nPrefecture\nmysterious\nnamely\nconnects\nDevil\nhistorians\nCHAPTER\nquit\ninstallation\nGolf\nempire\nelevated\n##eo\nreleasing\nBond\n##uri\nharsh\nban\n##BA\ncontracts\ncloth\npresents\nstake\nchorus\n##eau\nswear\n##mp\nallies\ngenerations\nMotor\nmeter\npen\nwarrior\nveteran\n##EC\ncomprehensive\nmissile\ninteraction\ninstruction\nRenaissance\nrested\nDale\nfix\nfluid\nles\ninvestigate\nloaded\nwidow\nexhibit\nartificial\nselect\nrushing\ntasks\nsignature\nnowhere\nEngineer\nfeared\nPrague\nbother\nextinct\ngates\nBird\nclimbing\nheels\nstriking\nartwork\nhunt\nawake\n##hin\nFormula\nthereby\ncommitment\nimprisoned\nBeyond\n##MA\ntransformed\nAgriculture\nLow\nMovie\nradical\ncomplicated\nYellow\nAuckland\nmansion\ntenth\nTrevor\npredecessor\n##eer\ndisbanded\nsucked\ncircular\nwitch\ngaining\nlean\nBehind\nillustrated\nrang\ncelebrate\nbike\nconsist\nframework\n##cent\nShane\nowns\n350\ncomprises\ncollaborated\ncolleagues\n##cast\nengage\nfewer\n##ave\n1856\nobservation\ndiplomatic\nlegislature\nimprovements\nInterstate\ncraft\nMTV\nmartial\nadministered\njet\napproaching\npermanently\nattraction\nmanuscript\nnumbered\nHappy\nAndrea\nshallow\nGothic\nAnti\n##bad\nimprovement\ntrace\npreserve\nregardless\nrode\ndies\nachievement\nmaintaining\nHamburg\nspine\n##air\nflowing\nencourage\nwidened\nposts\n##bound\n125\nSoutheast\nSantiago\n##bles\nimpression\nreceiver\nSingle\nclosure\n##unt\ncommunist\nhonors\nNorthwest\n105\n##ulated\ncared\nun\nhug\nmagnetic\nseeds\ntopic\nperceived\nprey\nprevented\nMarvel\nEight\nMichel\nTransportation\nrings\nGate\n##gne\nByzantine\naccommodate\nfloating\n##dor\nequation\nministry\n##ito\n##gled\nRules\nearthquake\nrevealing\nBrother\nCeltic\nblew\nchairs\nPanama\nLeon\nattractive\ndescendants\nCare\nAmbassador\ntours\nbreathed\nthreatening\n##cho\nsmiles\nLt\nBeginning\n##iness\nfake\nassists\nfame\nstrings\nMobile\nLiu\nparks\nhttp\n1852\nbrush\nAunt\nbullet\nconsciousness\n##sta\n##ther\nconsequences\ngather\ndug\n1851\nbridges\nDoug\n##sion\nArtists\nignore\nCarol\nbrilliant\nradiation\ntemples\nbasin\nclouds\n##cted\nStevens\nspite\nsoap\nconsumer\nDamn\nSnow\nrecruited\n##craft\nAdvanced\ntournaments\nQuinn\nundergraduate\nquestioned\nPalmer\nAnnual\nOthers\nfeeding\nSpider\nprinting\n##orn\ncameras\nfunctional\nChester\nreaders\nAlpha\nuniversal\nFaith\nBrandon\nFrançois\nauthored\nRing\nel\naims\nathletic\npossessed\nVermont\nprogrammes\n##uck\nbore\nFisher\nstatements\nshed\nsaxophone\nneighboring\npronounced\nbarrel\nbags\n##dge\norganisations\npilots\ncasualties\nKenneth\n##brook\nsilently\nMalcolm\nspan\nEssex\nanchor\n##hl\nvirtual\nlessons\nHenri\nTrump\nPage\npile\nlocomotive\nwounds\nuncomfortable\nsustained\nDiana\nEagles\n##pi\n2000s\ndocumented\n##bel\nCassie\ndelay\nkisses\n##ines\nvariation\n##ag\ngrowled\n##mark\n##ways\nLeslie\nstudios\nFriedrich\naunt\nactively\narmor\neaten\nhistorically\nBetter\npurse\nhoney\nratings\n##ée\nnaturally\n1840\npeer\nKenny\nCardinal\ndatabase\nLooking\nrunners\nhandsome\nDouble\nPA\n##boat\n##sted\nprotecting\n##jan\nDiamond\nconcepts\ninterface\n##aki\nWatch\nArticle\nColumbus\ndialogue\npause\n##rio\nextends\nblanket\npulse\n1853\naffiliate\nladies\nRonald\ncounted\nkills\ndemons\n##zation\nAirlines\nMarco\nCat\ncompanion\nmere\nYugoslavia\nForum\nAllan\npioneer\nCompetition\nMethodist\npatent\nnobody\nStockholm\n##ien\nregulation\n##ois\naccomplished\n##itive\nwashed\nsake\nVladimir\ncrops\nprestigious\nhumor\nSally\nlabour\ntributary\ntrap\naltered\nexamined\nMumbai\nbombing\nAsh\n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\n##rlin\nAntioch\nGao\nDíaz\n1760\nSparks\n##tien\n##bidae\nrehearsal\n##bbs\nbotanical\n##hers\ncompensate\nwholesale\nSeville\nshareholder\nprediction\nastronomical\nReddy\nhardest\ncircling\nwhereabouts\ntermination\nRep\nAssistance\nDramatic\nHerb\n##ghter\nclimbs\n188\nPoole\n301\n##pable\nwit\n##istice\nWalters\nrelying\nJakob\n##redo\nproceeding\nLangley\naffiliates\nou\n##allo\n##holm\nSamsung\n##ishi\nMissing\nXi\nvertices\nClaus\nfoam\nrestless\n##uating\n##sso\n##ttering\nPhilips\ndelta\nbombed\nCatalogue\ncoaster\nLing\nWillard\nsatire\n410\nComposition\nNet\nOrioles\n##ldon\nfins\nPalatinate\nWoodward\ntease\ntilt\nbrightness\n##70\n##bbling\n##loss\n##dhi\n##uilt\nWhoever\n##yers\nhitter\nElton\nExtension\nace\nAffair\nrestructuring\n##loping\nPaterson\nhi\n##rya\nspouse\nShay\nHimself\npiles\npreaching\n##gical\nbikes\nBrave\nexpulsion\nMirza\nstride\nTrees\ncommemorated\nfamine\nmasonry\nSelena\nWatt\nBanking\nRancho\nStockton\ndip\ntattoos\nVlad\nacquainted\nFlyers\nruthless\nfourteenth\nillustrate\n##akes\nEPA\n##rows\n##uiz\nbumped\nDesigned\nLeaders\nmastered\nManfred\nswirled\nMcCain\n##rout\nArtemis\nrabbi\nflinched\nupgrades\npenetrate\nshipyard\ntransforming\ncaretaker\n##eiro\nMaureen\ntightening\n##founded\nRAM\n##icular\n##mper\n##rung\nFifteen\nexploited\nconsistency\ninterstate\n##ynn\nBridget\ncontamination\nMistress\n##rup\ncoating\n##FP\n##jective\nLibyan\n211\nGemma\ndependence\nshrubs\n##ggled\nGermain\nretaliation\ntraction\n##PP\nDangerous\nterminology\npsychiatrist\n##garten\nhurdles\nNatal\nwasting\nWeir\nrevolves\nstripe\n##reased\npreferences\n##entation\n##lde\n##áil\n##otherapy\nFlame\n##ologies\nviruses\nLabel\nPandora\nveil\n##ogical\nColiseum\nCottage\ncreeping\nJong\nlectured\n##çaise\nshoreline\n##fference\n##hra\nShade\nClock\nFaye\nbilingual\nHumboldt\nOperating\n##fter\n##was\nalgae\ntowed\namphibious\nParma\nimpacted\nsmacked\nPiedmont\nMonsters\n##omb\nMoor\n##lberg\nsinister\nPostal\n178\nDrummond\nSign\ntextbooks\nhazardous\nBrass\nRosemary\nPick\nSit\nArchitect\ntransverse\nCentennial\nconfess\npolling\n##aia\nJulien\n##mand\nconsolidation\nEthel\n##ulse\nseverity\nYorker\nchoreographer\n1840s\n##ltry\nsofter\nversa\n##geny\n##quila\n##jō\nCaledonia\nFriendship\nVisa\nrogue\n##zzle\nbait\nfeather\nincidence\nFoods\nShips\n##uto\n##stead\narousal\n##rote\nHazel\n##bolic\nSwing\n##ej\n##cule\n##jana\n##metry\n##uity\nValuable\n##ₙ\nShropshire\n##nect\n365\nOnes\nrealise\nCafé\nAlbuquerque\n##grown\n##stadt\n209\n##ᵢ\nprefers\nwithstand\nLillian\nMacArthur\nHara\n##fulness\ndomination\n##VO\n##school\nFreddy\nethnicity\n##while\nadorned\nhormone\nCalder\nDomestic\nFreud\nShields\n##phus\n##rgan\nBP\nSegunda\nMustang\n##GI\nBonn\npatiently\nremarried\n##umbria\nCrete\nElephant\nNuremberg\ntolerate\nTyson\n##evich\nProgramming\n##lander\nBethlehem\nsegregation\nConstituency\nquarterly\nblushed\nphotographers\nSheldon\nporcelain\nBlanche\ngoddamn\nlively\n##fused\nbumps\n##eli\ncurated\ncoherent\nprovoked\n##vet\nMadeleine\n##isco\nrainy\nBethel\naccusation\nponytail\ngag\n##lington\nquicker\nscroll\n##vate\nBow\nGender\nIra\ncrashes\nACT\nMaintenance\n##aton\n##ieu\nbitterly\nstrains\nrattled\nvectors\n##arina\n##ishly\n173\nparole\n##nx\namusing\nGonzalez\n##erative\nCaucus\nsensual\nPenelope\ncoefficient\nMateo\n##mani\nproposition\nDuty\nlacrosse\nproportions\nPlato\nprofiles\nBotswana\nBrandt\nreins\nmandolin\nencompassing\n##gens\nKahn\nprop\nsummon\n##MR\n##yrian\n##zaki\nFalling\nconditional\nthy\n##bao\n##ych\nradioactive\n##nics\nNewspaper\n##people\n##nded\nGaming\nsunny\n##look\nSherwood\ncrafted\nNJ\nawoke\n187\ntimeline\ngiants\npossessing\n##ycle\nCheryl\nng\nRuiz\npolymer\npotassium\nRamsay\nrelocation\n##leen\nSociology\n##bana\nFranciscan\npropulsion\ndenote\n##erjee\nregisters\nheadline\nTests\nemerges\nArticles\nMint\nlivery\nbreakup\nkits\nRap\nBrowning\nBunny\n##mington\n##watch\nAnastasia\nZachary\narranging\nbiographical\nErica\nNippon\n##membrance\nCarmel\n##sport\n##xes\nPaddy\n##holes\nIssues\nSpears\ncompliment\n##stro\n##graphs\nCastillo\n##MU\n##space\nCorporal\n##nent\n174\nGentlemen\n##ilize\n##vage\nconvinces\nCarmine\nCrash\n##hashi\nFiles\nDoctors\nbrownish\nsweating\ngoats\n##conductor\nrendition\n##bt\nNL\n##spiration\ngenerates\n##cans\nobsession\n##noy\nDanger\nDiaz\nheats\nRealm\npriorities\n##phon\n1300\ninitiation\npagan\nbursts\narchipelago\nchloride\nScreenplay\nHewitt\nKhmer\nbang\njudgement\nnegotiating\n##ait\nMabel\ndensely\nBoulder\nknob\n430\nAlfredo\n##kt\npitches\n##ées\n##ان\nMacdonald\n##llum\nimply\n##mot\nSmile\nspherical\n##tura\nDerrick\nKelley\nNico\ncortex\nlaunches\ndiffered\nparallels\nNavigation\n##child\n##rming\ncanoe\nforestry\nreinforce\n##mote\nconfirming\ntasting\nscaled\n##resh\n##eting\nUnderstanding\nprevailing\nPearce\nCW\nearnest\nGaius\nasserts\ndenoted\nlandmarks\nChargers\nwarns\n##flies\nJudges\njagged\n##dain\ntails\nHistorian\nMillie\n##sler\n221\n##uard\nabsurd\nDion\n##ially\nmakeshift\nSpecifically\nignorance\nEat\n##ieri\ncomparisons\nforensic\n186\nGiro\nskeptical\ndisciplinary\nbattleship\n##45\nLibby\n520\nOdyssey\nledge\n##post\nEternal\nMissionary\ndeficiency\nsettler\nwonders\n##gai\nraging\n##cis\nRomney\nUlrich\nannexation\nboxers\nsect\n204\nARIA\ndei\nHitchcock\nte\nVarsity\n##fic\nCC\nlending\n##nial\n##tag\n##rdy\n##obe\nDefensive\n##dson\n##pore\nstellar\nLam\nTrials\ncontention\nSung\n##uminous\nPoe\nsuperiority\n##plicate\n325\nbitten\nconspicuous\n##olly\nLila\nPub\nPetit\ndistorted\nISIL\ndistinctly\n##family\nCowboy\nmutant\n##cats\n##week\nChanges\nSinatra\nepithet\nneglect\nInnocent\ngamma\nthrill\nreggae\n##adia\n##ational\n##due\nlandlord\n##leaf\nvisibly\n##ì\nDarlington\nGomez\n##iting\nscarf\n##lade\nHinduism\nFever\nscouts\n##roi\nconvened\n##oki\n184\nLao\nboycott\nunemployed\n##lore\n##ß\n##hammer\nCurran\ndisciples\nodor\n##ygiene\nLighthouse\nPlayed\nwhales\ndiscretion\nYves\n##ceived\npauses\ncoincide\n##nji\ndizzy\n##scopic\nrouted\nGuardians\nKellan\ncarnival\nnasal\n224\n##awed\nMitsubishi\n640\nCast\nsilky\nProjects\njoked\nHuddersfield\nRothschild\nzu\n##olar\nDivisions\nmildly\n##eni\n##lge\nAppalachian\nSahara\npinch\n##roon\nwardrobe\n##dham\n##etal\nBubba\n##lini\n##rumbling\nCommunities\nPoznań\nunification\nBeau\nKris\nSV\nRowing\nMinh\nreconciliation\n##saki\n##sor\ntaped\n##reck\ncertificates\ngubernatorial\nrainbow\n##uing\nlitter\n##lique\n##oted\nButterfly\nbenefited\nImages\ninduce\nBalkans\nVelvet\n##90\n##xon\nBowman\n##breaker\npenis\n##nitz\n##oint\n##otive\ncrust\n##pps\norganizers\nOutdoor\nnominees\n##rika\nTX\n##ucks\nProtestants\n##imation\nappetite\nBaja\nawaited\n##points\nwindshield\n##igh\n##zled\nBrody\nBuster\nstylized\nBryce\n##sz\nDollar\nvest\nmold\nounce\nok\nreceivers\n##uza\nPurdue\nHarrington\nHodges\ncaptures\n##ggio\nReservation\n##ssin\n##tman\ncosmic\nstraightforward\nflipping\nremixed\n##athed\nGómez\nLim\nmotorcycles\neconomies\nowning\nDani\n##rosis\nmyths\nsire\nkindly\n1768\nBean\ngraphs\n##mee\n##RO\n##geon\npuppy\nStephenson\nnotified\n##jer\nWatching\n##rama\nSino\nurgency\nIslanders\n##mash\nPlata\nfumble\n##chev\n##stance\n##rack\n##she\nfacilitated\nswings\nakin\nenduring\npayload\n##phine\nDeputies\nmurals\n##tooth\n610\nJays\neyeing\n##quito\ntransparency\n##cote\nTimor\nnegatively\n##isan\nbattled\n##fected\nthankful\nRage\nhospitality\nincorrectly\n207\nentrepreneurs\n##cula\n##wley\nhedge\n##cratic\nCorpus\nOdessa\nWhereas\n##ln\nfetch\nhappier\nAmherst\nbullying\ngraceful\nHeight\nBartholomew\nwillingness\nqualifier\n191\nSyed\nWesleyan\nLayla\n##rrence\nWebber\n##hum\nRat\n##cket\n##herence\nMonterey\ncontaminated\nBeside\nMustafa\nNana\n213\n##pruce\nReason\n##spense\nspike\n##gé\nAU\ndisciple\ncharcoal\n##lean\nformulated\nDiesel\nMariners\naccreditation\nglossy\n1800s\n##ih\nMainz\nunison\nMarianne\nshear\noverseeing\nvernacular\nbowled\n##lett\nunpopular\n##ckoned\n##monia\nGaston\n##TI\n##oters\nCups\n##bones\n##ports\nMuseo\nminors\n1773\nDickens\n##EL\n##NBC\nPresents\nambitions\naxes\nRío\nYukon\nbedside\nRibbon\nUnits\nfaults\nconceal\n##lani\nprevailed\n214\nGoodwin\nJaguar\ncrumpled\nCullen\nWireless\nceded\nremotely\nBin\nmocking\nstraps\nceramics\n##avi\n##uding\n##ader\nTaft\ntwenties\n##aked\nProblem\nquasi\nLamar\n##ntes\n##avan\nBarr\n##eral\nhooks\nsa\n##ône\n194\n##ross\nNero\nCaine\ntrance\nHomeland\nbenches\nGuthrie\ndismiss\n##lex\nCésar\nfoliage\n##oot\n##alty\nAssyrian\nAhead\nMurdoch\ndictatorship\nwraps\n##ntal\nCorridor\nMackay\nrespectable\njewels\nunderstands\n##pathic\nBryn\n##tep\nON\ncapsule\nintrigued\nSleeping\ncommunists\n##chayat\n##current\n##vez\ndoubling\nbooklet\n##uche\nCreed\n##NU\nspies\n##sef\nadjusting\n197\nImam\nheaved\nTanya\ncanonical\nrestraint\nsenators\nstainless\n##gnate\nMatter\ncache\nrestrained\nconflicting\nstung\n##ool\nSustainable\nantiquity\n193\nheavens\ninclusive\n##ador\nfluent\n303\n911\narchaeologist\nsuperseded\n##plex\nTammy\ninspire\n##passing\n##lub\nLama\nMixing\n##activated\n##yote\nparlor\ntactic\n198\nStefano\nprostitute\nrecycling\nsorted\nbanana\nStacey\nMusée\naristocratic\ncough\n##rting\nauthorised\ngangs\nrunoff\nthoughtfully\n##nish\nFisheries\nProvence\ndetector\nhum\n##zhen\npill\n##árez\nMap\nLeaves\nPeabody\nskater\nvent\n##color\n390\ncerebral\nhostages\nmare\nJurassic\nswell\n##isans\nKnoxville\nNaked\nMalaya\nscowl\nCobra\n##anga\nSexual\n##dron\n##iae\n196\n##drick\nRavens\nBlaine\n##throp\nIsmail\nsymmetric\n##lossom\nLeicestershire\nSylvester\nglazed\n##tended\nRadar\nfused\nFamilies\nBlacks\nSale\nZion\nfoothills\nmicrowave\nslain\nCollingwood\n##pants\n##dling\nkillers\nroutinely\nJanice\nhearings\n##chanted\n##ltration\ncontinents\n##iving\n##yster\n##shot\n##yna\ninjected\nGuillaume\n##ibi\nkinda\nConfederacy\nBarnett\ndisasters\nincapable\n##grating\nrhythms\nbetting\ndraining\n##hak\nCallie\nGlover\n##iliated\nSherlock\nhearted\npunching\nWolverhampton\nLeaf\nPi\nbuilders\nfurnished\nknighted\nPhoto\n##zle\nTouring\nfumbled\npads\n##ий\nBartlett\nGunner\neerie\nMarius\nBonus\npots\n##hino\n##pta\nBray\nFrey\nOrtiz\nstalls\nbelongings\nSubway\nfascination\nmetaphor\nBat\nBoer\nColchester\nsway\n##gro\nrhetoric\n##dheim\nFool\nPMID\nadmire\n##hsil\nStrand\nTNA\n##roth\nNottinghamshire\n##mat\n##yler\nOxfordshire\n##nacle\n##roner\nBS\n##nces\nstimulus\ntransports\nSabbath\n##postle\nRichter\n4000\n##grim\n##shima\n##lette\ndeteriorated\nanalogous\n##ratic\nUHF\nenergies\ninspiring\nYiddish\nActivities\n##quential\n##boe\nMelville\n##ilton\nJudd\nconsonants\nlabs\nsmuggling\n##fari\navid\n##uc\ntruce\nundead\n##raith\nMostly\nbracelet\nConnection\nHussain\nawhile\n##UC\n##vention\nliable\ngenetically\n##phic\nImportant\nWildcats\ndaddy\ntransmit\n##cas\nconserved\nYesterday\n##lite\nNicky\nGuys\nWilder\nLay\nskinned\nCommunists\nGarfield\nNearby\norganizer\nLoss\ncrafts\nwalkway\nChocolate\nSundance\nSynod\n##enham\nmodify\nswayed\nSurface\nanalysts\nbrackets\ndrone\nparachute\nsmelling\nAndrés\nfilthy\nfrogs\nvertically\n##OK\nlocalities\nmarries\nAHL\n35th\n##pian\nPalazzo\ncube\ndismay\nrelocate\n##на\nHear\n##digo\n##oxide\nprefecture\nconverts\nhangar\n##oya\n##ucking\nSpectrum\ndeepened\nspoiled\nKeeping\n##phobic\nVerona\noutrage\nImprovement\n##UI\nmasterpiece\nslung\nCalling\nchant\nHaute\nmediated\nmanipulated\naffirmed\n##hesis\nHangul\nskies\n##llan\nWorcestershire\n##kos\nmosaic\n##bage\n##wned\nPutnam\nfolder\n##LM\nguts\nnoteworthy\n##rada\nAJ\nsculpted\n##iselle\n##rang\nrecognizable\n##pent\ndolls\nlobbying\nimpatiently\nSe\nstaple\nSerb\ntandem\nHiroshima\nthieves\n##ynx\nfaculties\nNorte\n##alle\n##trusion\nchords\n##ylon\nGareth\n##lops\n##escu\nFIA\nLevin\nauspices\ngroin\nHui\nnun\nListed\nHonourable\nLarsen\nrigorous\n##erer\nTonga\n##pment\n##rave\n##track\n##aa\n##enary\n540\nclone\nsediment\nesteem\nsighted\ncruelty\n##boa\ninverse\nviolating\nAmtrak\nStatus\namalgamated\nvertex\nAR\nharmless\nAmir\nmounts\nCoronation\ncounseling\nAudi\nCO₂\nsplits\n##eyer\nHumans\nSalmon\n##have\n##rado\n##čić\n216\ntakeoff\nclassmates\npsychedelic\n##gni\nGypsy\n231\nAnger\nGAA\nME\n##nist\n##tals\nLissa\nOdd\nbaptized\nFiat\nfringe\n##hren\n179\nelevators\nperspectives\n##TF\n##ngle\nQuestion\nfrontal\n950\nthicker\nMolecular\n##nological\nSixteen\nBaton\nHearing\ncommemorative\ndorm\nArchitectural\npurity\n##erse\nrisky\nGeorgie\nrelaxing\n##ugs\ndowned\n##rar\nSlim\n##phy\nIUCN\n##thorpe\nParkinson\n217\nMarley\nShipping\nsweaty\nJesuits\nSindh\nJanata\nimplying\nArmenians\nintercept\nAnkara\ncommissioners\nascended\nsniper\nGrass\nWalls\nsalvage\nDewey\ngeneralized\nlearnt\nPT\n##fighter\n##tech\nDR\n##itrus\n##zza\nmercenaries\nslots\n##burst\n##finger\n##nsky\nPrinces\nRhodesia\n##munication\n##strom\nFremantle\nhomework\nins\n##Os\n##hao\n##uffed\nThorpe\nXiao\nexquisite\nfirstly\nliberated\ntechnician\nOilers\nPhyllis\nherb\nsharks\nMBE\n##stock\nProduct\nbanjo\n##morandum\n##than\nVisitors\nunavailable\nunpublished\noxidation\nVogue\n##copic\n##etics\nYates\n##ppard\nLeiden\nTrading\ncottages\nPrinciples\n##Millan\n##wife\n##hiva\nVicar\nnouns\nstrolled\n##eorological\n##eton\n##science\nprecedent\nArmand\nGuido\nrewards\n##ilis\n##tise\nclipped\nchick\n##endra\naverages\ntentatively\n1830s\n##vos\nCertainly\n305\nSociété\nCommandant\n##crats\n##dified\n##nka\nmarsh\nangered\nventilation\nHutton\nRitchie\n##having\nEclipse\nflick\nmotionless\nAmor\nFest\nLoire\nlays\n##icit\n##sband\nGuggenheim\nLuck\ndisrupted\n##ncia\nDisco\n##vigator\ncriticisms\ngrins\n##lons\n##vial\n##ody\nsalute\nCoaches\njunk\nsaxophonist\n##eology\nUprising\nDiet\n##marks\nchronicles\nrobbed\n##iet\n##ahi\nBohemian\nmagician\nwavelength\nKenyan\naugmented\nfashionable\n##ogies\nLuce\nF1\nMonmouth\n##jos\n##loop\nenjoyment\nexemption\nCenters\n##visor\nSoundtrack\nblinding\npractitioner\nsolidarity\nsacrificed\n##oso\n##cture\n##riated\nblended\nAbd\nCopyright\n##nob\n34th\n##reak\nClaudio\nhectare\nrotor\ntestify\n##ends\n##iably\n##sume\nlandowner\n##cess\n##ckman\nEduard\nSilesian\nbackseat\nmutually\n##abe\nMallory\nbounds\nCollective\nPoet\nWinkler\npertaining\nscraped\nPhelps\ncrane\nflickering\nProto\nbubbles\npopularized\nremoves\n##86\nCadillac\nWarfare\naudible\nrites\nshivering\n##sist\n##nst\n##biotic\nMon\nfascist\nBali\nKathryn\nambiguous\nfuriously\nmorale\npatio\nSang\ninconsistent\ntopology\nGreens\nmonkeys\nKöppen\n189\nToy\nvow\n##ías\nbombings\n##culus\nimprovised\nlodged\nsubsidiaries\ngarment\nstartling\npractised\nHume\nThorn\ncategorized\nTill\nEileen\nwedge\n##64\nFederico\npatriotic\nunlock\n##oshi\nbadminton\nCompared\nVilnius\n##KE\nCrimean\nKemp\ndecks\nspaced\nresolutions\nsighs\n##mind\nImagine\nCartoon\nhuddled\npolicemen\nforwards\n##rouch\nequals\n##nter\ninspected\nCharley\nMG\n##rte\npamphlet\nArturo\ndans\nscarcely\n##ulton\n##rvin\nparental\nunconstitutional\nwatts\nSusannah\nDare\n##sitive\nRowland\nValle\ninvalid\n##ué\nDetachment\nacronym\nYokohama\nverified\n##ls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partment\ntable\nMusic\ncurrent\n31\nfeatures\nspecial\nevents\ncharacter\nTwo\nsquare\nsold\ndebut\n##v\nprocess\nAlthough\nSince\n##ka\n40\nCentral\ncurrently\neducation\nplaced\nlot\nChina\nquickly\nforward\nseven\n##ling\nEurope\narm\nperformed\nJapanese\n1991\nHenry\nNow\nDr\n##ion\nweek\nGroup\nmyself\nbig\nUK\nWashington\nten\ndeep\n1990\nClub\nJapan\nspace\nLa\ndirected\nsmile\nepisode\nhours\nwhole\n##de\n##less\nWhy\nwouldn\ndesigned\nstrong\ntraining\nchanged\nSociety\nstage\ninvolved\nhadn\ntowards\nleading\npolice\neight\nkept\nInstitute\nstudy\nlargest\nchild\neventually\nprivate\nmodern\nCourt\nthroughout\ngetting\noriginally\nattack\n##E\ntalk\nGreat\nlonger\nsongs\nalone\n##ine\nwide\ndead\nwalked\nshot\n##ri\nOh\nforce\n##st\nArt\ntoday\nfriends\nIsland\nRichard\n1989\ncenter\nconstruction\nbelieve\nsize\nWhite\nship\ncompleted\n##B\ngone\nJust\nrock\nsat\n##R\nradio\nbelow\nentire\nfamilies\nleague\nincludes\ntype\nlived\nofficial\nrange\nhold\nfeatured\nMost\n##ter\npresident\npassed\nmeans\n##f\nforces\nlips\nMary\nDo\nguitar\n##ce\nfood\nwall\nOf\nspent\nIts\nperformance\nhear\n##P\nWestern\nreported\nsister\n##et\nmorning\n##M\nespecially\n##ive\nMinister\nitself\npost\nbit\ngroups\n1988\n##tion\nBlack\n##ng\nWell\nraised\nsometimes\nCanadian\nParis\nSpanish\nreplaced\nschools\nAcademy\nleaving\ncentral\nfemale\nChristian\nJack\nwhose\ncollege\nonto\nprovided\n##D\n##ville\nplayers\nactually\nstopped\n##son\nMuseum\ndoesn\n##ts\nbooks\nfight\nallowed\n##ur\nbeginning\nRecords\nawarded\nparents\ncoach\n##os\nRed\nsaying\n##ck\nSmith\nYes\nLake\n##L\naircraft\n1987\n##ble\nprevious\nft\naction\nItalian\nAfrican\nhappened\nvocals\nAct\nfuture\ncourt\n##ge\n1986\ndegree\nphone\n##ro\nIs\ncountries\nwinning\nbreath\nLove\nriver\nmatter\nLord\nOther\nlist\nself\nparts\n##ate\nprovide\ncut\nshows\nplan\n1st\ninterest\n##ized\nAfrica\nstated\nSir\nfell\nowned\nearlier\nended\ncompetition\nattention\n1985\nlower\nnearly\nbad\nolder\nstay\nSaint\n##se\ncertain\n1984\nfingers\nblue\ntry\nfourth\nGrand\n##as\nking\n##nt\nmakes\nchest\nmovement\nstates\nmoving\ndata\nintroduced\nmodel\ndate\nsection\nLos\ndeal\n##I\nskin\nentered\nmiddle\nsuccess\nTexas\n##w\nsummer\nisland\n##N\nRepublic\nlength\nhusband\n1980\n##ey\nreason\nanyone\nforced\nvia\nbase\n500\njob\ncovered\nFestival\nRoman\nsuccessful\nrights\ncover\nMan\nwriting\nIreland\n##F\nrelated\ngoal\ntakes\nbuildings\ntrue\nweeks\n1983\nBecause\nopening\nnovel\nISBN\nmeet\ngold\n##ous\nmid\nkm²\nstanding\nFootball\nChicago\nshook\nwhom\n##ki\n1982\nDay\nfeeling\nscored\nboy\nhigher\nForce\nleader\nheavy\nfall\nquestion\nsense\narmy\nSecond\nenergy\nmeeting\nthemselves\nkill\n##am\nboard\ncensus\n##ya\n##ns\nmine\nmeant\nmarket\nrequired\nbattle\ncampaign\nattended\napproximately\nKingdom\nruns\nactive\n##ha\ncontract\nclear\npreviously\nhealth\n1979\nArts\ncomplete\nCatholic\ncouple\nunits\n##ll\n##ty\nCommittee\nshoulder\nsea\nsystems\nlisted\n##O\ncaught\ntournament\n##G\nnorthern\nauthor\nFilm\nYour\n##men\nholding\noffered\npersonal\n1981\nsouthern\nartist\ntraditional\nstudio\n200\ncapital\n##ful\nregular\nask\ngiving\norganization\nmonth\nnews\nAre\nread\nmanaged\nhelped\nstudied\nstudent\ndefeated\nnatural\nindustry\nYear\nnoted\ndecision\nGovernment\nquite\n##id\nsmiled\n1972\nMaybe\ntracks\n##ke\nMark\nal\nmedia\nengine\nhour\nTheir\nrelationship\nplays\nproperty\nstructure\n1976\nago\nHill\nMartin\n1978\nready\nMany\nLike\nBay\nimmediately\ngenerally\nItaly\nGreek\npractice\ncaused\ndivision\nsignificant\nJoseph\nspeed\nLet\nthinking\ncompletely\n1974\nprimary\nmostly\n##field\n##K\n1975\n##to\nEven\nwriter\n##led\ndropped\nmagazine\ncollection\nunderstand\nroute\nhighest\nparticular\nfilms\nlines\nnetwork\nScience\nloss\ncarried\ndirection\ngreen\n1977\nlocation\nproducer\naccording\nWomen\nQueen\nneck\nthus\nindependent\nview\n1970\nAngeles\nSoviet\ndistance\nproblem\nBoard\ntour\nwestern\nincome\nappearance\naccess\nMexico\nnodded\nstreet\nsurface\narrived\nbelieved\nOld\n1968\n1973\nbecoming\nwhether\n1945\nfigure\nsinger\nstand\nFollowing\nissue\nwindow\nwrong\npain\neveryone\nlives\nissues\npark\nslowly\nla\nact\n##va\nbring\nLee\noperations\nkey\ncomes\nfine\ncold\nfamous\nNavy\n1971\nMe\nadditional\nindividual\n##ner\nZealand\ngoals\ncounty\ncontains\nService\nminute\n2nd\nreach\ntalking\nparticularly\n##ham\nmovie\nDirector\nglass\npaper\nstudies\n##co\nrailway\nstandard\nEducation\n45\nrepresented\nChief\nLouis\nlaunched\nStar\nterms\n60\n1969\nexperience\nwatched\nAnother\nPress\nTom\nstaff\nstarting\nsubject\nbreak\nVirginia\nnine\neye\n##age\nevidence\nfoot\n##est\ncompanies\nPrince\n##V\ngun\ncreate\nBig\nPeople\nguy\nGreen\nsimply\nnumerous\n##line\nincreased\ntwenty\n##ga\n##do\n1967\naward\nofficer\nstone\nBefore\nmaterial\nNorthern\ngrew\nmale\nplant\nLife\nlegs\nstep\nAl\nunit\n35\nexcept\nanswer\n##U\nreport\nresponse\nEdward\ncommercial\nedition\ntrade\nscience\n##ca\nIrish\nLaw\nshown\nrate\nfailed\n##ni\nrema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ball\nhorse\nways\nquestions\nprotect\ngas\nactivity\nyounger\nbottom\nfounder\nScottish\nscreen\ntreatment\neasily\ncom\n##house\ndedicated\nMaster\nwarm\nNight\nGeorgia\nLong\nvon\n##me\nperfect\nwebsite\n1960s\npiano\nefforts\n##ide\nTony\nsort\noffers\nDevelopment\nSimon\nexecutive\n##nd\nsave\nOver\nSenate\n1951\n1990s\ndraw\nmaster\nPolice\n##ius\nrenamed\nboys\ninitial\nprominent\ndamage\nCo\n##ov\n##za\nonline\nbegin\noccurred\ncaptured\nyouth\nTop\naccount\ntells\nJustice\nconducted\nforest\n##town\nbought\nteeth\nJersey\n##di\npurchased\nagreement\nMichigan\n##ure\ncampus\nprison\nbecomes\nproduct\nsecret\nguess\nRoute\nhuge\ntypes\ndrums\n64\nsplit\ndefeat\nestate\nhousing\n##ot\nbrothers\nCoast\ndeclared\nhappen\ntitled\ntherefore\nsun\ncommonly\nalongside\nStadium\nlibrary\nHome\narticle\nsteps\ntelling\nslow\nassigned\nrefused\nlaughed\nwants\nNick\nwearing\nRome\nOpen\n##ah\nHospital\npointed\nTaylor\nlifted\nescape\nparticipated\n##j\ndrama\nparish\nSanta\n##per\norganized\nmass\npick\nAirport\ngets\nLibrary\nunable\npull\nLive\n##ging\nsurrounding\n##ries\nfocused\nAdam\nfacilities\n##ning\n##ny\n38\n##ring\nnotable\nera\nconnected\ngained\noperating\nlaid\nRegiment\nbranch\ndefined\nChristmas\nmachine\nFour\nacademic\nIran\nadopted\nconcept\nMen\ncompared\nsearch\ntraffic\nMax\nMaria\ngreater\n##ding\nwidely\n##burg\nserves\n1938\n37\nGo\nhotel\nshared\ntypically\nscale\n1936\nleg\nsuffered\nyards\npieces\nMinistry\nWilson\nepisodes\nempty\n1918\nsafety\ncontinues\nyellow\nhistoric\nsettlement\n400\nCome\nCorporation\nenemy\ncontent\npicture\nevening\nterritory\nmethod\ntrial\nsolo\ndriver\nHere\n##ls\nentrance\nPrize\nspring\nwhatever\n##ent\n75\n##ji\nreading\nArthur\n##cy\nOur\nclothes\nPrime\nIllinois\nKong\ncode\n##ria\nsit\nHarry\nFederal\nchosen\nadministration\nbodies\nbegins\nstomach\nThough\nseats\nHong\ndensity\nSun\nleaders\nField\nmuseum\nchart\nplatform\nlanguages\n##ron\nbirth\nholds\nGold\n##un\nfish\ncombined\n##ps\n4th\n1937\nlargely\ncaptain\ntrust\nGame\nvan\nboat\nOxford\nbasic\nbeneath\nIslands\npainting\nnice\nToronto\npath\nmales\nsources\nblock\nconference\nparties\nmurder\nclubs\ncrowd\ncalling\nAbout\nBusiness\npeace\nknows\nlake\nspeaking\nstayed\nBrazil\nallowing\nBorn\nunique\nthick\nTechnology\n##que\nreceive\ndes\nsemi\nalive\nnoticed\nformat\n##ped\ncoffee\ndigital\n##ned\nhanded\nguard\ntall\nfaced\nsetting\nplants\npartner\nclaim\nreduced\ntemple\nanimals\ndetermined\nclasses\n##out\nestimated\n##ad\nOlympic\nproviding\nMassachusetts\nlearned\nInc\nPhiladelphia\nSocial\ncarry\n42\npossibly\nhosted\ntonight\nrespectively\nToday\nshape\nMount\nroles\ndesignated\nbrain\netc\nKorea\nthoughts\nBrian\nHighway\ndoors\nbackground\ndrew\nmodels\nfootballer\ntone\nturns\n1935\nquiet\ntower\nwood\nbus\nwrite\nsoftware\nweapons\nflat\nmarked\n1920\nnewly\ntight\nEric\nfinger\nJournal\nFC\nVan\nrise\ncritical\nAtlantic\ngranted\nreturning\ncommunities\nhumans\nquick\n39\n48\nranked\nsight\npop\nSwedish\nStephen\ncard\nanalysis\nattacked\n##wa\nSunday\nidentified\nJason\nchampion\nsituated\n1930\nexpanded\ntears\n##nce\nreaching\nDavis\nprotection\nEmperor\npositions\nnominated\nBridge\ntax\ndress\nallows\navoid\nleadership\nkilling\nactress\nguest\nsteel\nknowing\nelectric\ncells\ndisease\ngrade\nunknown\n##ium\nresulted\nPakistan\nconfirmed\n##ged\ntongue\ncovers\n##Y\nroof\nentirely\napplied\nvotes\ndrink\ninterview\nexchange\nTownship\nreasons\n##ised\npage\ncalls\ndog\nagent\nnose\nteaching\n##ds\n##ists\nadvanced\nwish\nGolden\nexisting\nvehicle\ndel\n1919\ndevelop\nattacks\npressed\nSports\nplanning\nresulting\nfacility\nSarah\nnotes\n1933\nClass\nHistoric\nwinter\n##mo\naudience\nCommunity\nhousehold\nNetherlands\ncreation\n##ize\nkeeping\n1914\nclaims\ndry\nguys\nopposite\n##ak\nexplained\nOntario\nsecondary\ndifference\nFrancis\nactions\norganizations\nyard\nanimal\nUp\nLewis\ntitles\nSeveral\n1934\nRyan\n55\nSupreme\nrolled\n1917\ndistribution\nfigures\nafraid\nrural\nyourself\n##rt\nsets\nbarely\nInstead\npassing\nawards\n41\nsilence\nauthority\noccupied\nenvironment\nwindows\nengineering\nsurprised\nflying\ncrime\nreports\nMountain\npowers\ndriving\nsucceeded\nreviews\n1929\nHead\nmissing\nSong\nJesus\nopportunity\ninspired\nends\nalbums\nconversation\nimpact\ninjury\nsurprise\nbillion\nlearning\nheavily\noldest\nunion\ncreating\n##ky\nfestival\nliterature\nletters\nsexual\n##tte\napartment\nFinal\ncomedy\nnation\norders\n##sen\ncontemporary\nPower\ndrawn\nexistence\nconnection\n##ating\nPost\nJunior\nremembered\nmessage\nMedal\ncastle\nnote\nengineer\nsounds\nBeach\ncrossed\n##dy\near\nscientific\nsales\n##ai\ntheme\nstarts\nclearly\n##ut\ntrouble\n##gan\nbag\n##han\nBC\nsons\n1928\nsilent\nversions\ndaily\nStudies\nending\nRose\nguns\n1932\nheadquarters\nreference\nobtained\nSquadron\nconcert\nnone\ndu\nAmong\n##don\nprevent\nMember\nanswered\nstaring\nBetween\n##lla\nportion\ndrug\nliked\nassociation\nperformances\nNations\nformation\nCastle\nlose\nlear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ntravels\nsamples\naccurate\nphysically\nSony\nNashville\n##sville\n##lic\n##og\nProducer\nLucky\ntough\nStanford\nresort\nrepeatedly\neyebrows\nFar\nchoir\ncommenced\n##ep\n##ridge\nrage\nswing\nsequel\nheir\nbuses\nad\nGrove\n##late\n##rick\nupdated\n##SA\nDelaware\n##fa\nAthletics\nwarmth\nOff\nexcitement\nverse\nProtection\nVilla\ncorruption\nintellectual\nJenny\n##lyn\nmystery\nprayer\nhealthy\n##ologist\nBear\nlab\nErnest\nRemix\nregister\nbasement\nMontgomery\nconsistent\ntier\n1855\nPreston\nBrooks\n##maker\nvocalist\nlaboratory\ndelayed\nwheels\nrope\nbachelor\npitcher\nBlock\nNevertheless\nsuspect\nefficiency\nNebraska\nsiege\nFBI\nplanted\n##AC\nNewton\nbreeding\n##ain\neighteen\nArgentine\nencounter\nservant\n1858\nelder\nShadow\nEpisode\nfabric\ndoctors\nsurvival\nremoval\nchemistry\nvolunteers\nKane\nvariant\narrives\nEagle\nLeft\n##fe\nJo\ndivorce\n##ret\nyesterday\nBryan\nhandling\ndiseases\ncustomer\nSheriff\nTiger\nHarper\n##oi\nresting\nLinda\nSheffield\ngasped\nsexy\neconomics\nalien\ntale\nfootage\nLiberty\nyeah\nfundamental\nGround\nflames\nActress\nphotographer\nMaggie\nAdditional\njoke\ncustom\nSurvey\nAbu\nsilk\nconsumption\nEllis\nbread\n##uous\nengagement\nputs\nDog\n##hr\npoured\nguilt\nCDP\nboxes\nhardware\nclenched\n##cio\nstem\narena\nextending\n##com\nexamination\nSteel\nencountered\nrevised\n140\npicking\nCar\nhasn\nMinor\npride\nRoosevelt\nboards\n##mia\nblocked\ncurious\ndrag\nnarrative\nbrigade\nPrefecture\nmysterious\nnamely\nconnects\nDevil\nhistorians\nCHAPTER\nquit\ninstallation\nGolf\nempire\nelevated\n##eo\nreleasing\nBond\n##uri\nharsh\nban\n##BA\ncontracts\ncloth\npresents\nstake\nchorus\n##eau\nswear\n##mp\nallies\ngenerations\nMotor\nmeter\npen\nwarrior\nveteran\n##EC\ncomprehensive\nmissile\ninteraction\ninstruction\nRenaissance\nrested\nDale\nfix\nfluid\nles\ninvestigate\nloaded\nwidow\nexhibit\nartificial\nselect\nrushing\ntasks\nsignature\nnowhere\nEngineer\nfeared\nPrague\nbother\nextinct\ngates\nBird\nclimbing\nheels\nstriking\nartwork\nhunt\nawake\n##hin\nFormula\nthereby\ncommitment\nimprisoned\nBeyond\n##MA\ntransformed\nAgriculture\nLow\nMovie\nradical\ncomplicated\nYellow\nAuckland\nmansion\ntenth\nTrevor\npredecessor\n##eer\ndisbanded\nsucked\ncircular\nwitch\ngaining\nlean\nBehind\nillustrated\nrang\ncelebrate\nbike\nconsist\nframework\n##cent\nShane\nowns\n350\ncomprises\ncollaborated\ncolleagues\n##cast\nengage\nfewer\n##ave\n1856\nobservation\ndiplomatic\nlegislature\nimprovements\nInterstate\ncraft\nMTV\nmartial\nadministered\njet\napproaching\npermanently\nattraction\nmanuscript\nnumbered\nHappy\nAndrea\nshallow\nGothic\nAnti\n##bad\nimprovement\ntrace\npreserve\nregardless\nrode\ndies\nachievement\nmaintaining\nHamburg\nspine\n##air\nflowing\nencourage\nwidened\nposts\n##bound\n125\nSoutheast\nSantiago\n##bles\nimpression\nreceiver\nSingle\nclosure\n##unt\ncommunist\nhonors\nNorthwest\n105\n##ulated\ncared\nun\nhug\nmagnetic\nseeds\ntopic\nperceived\nprey\nprevented\nMarvel\nEight\nMichel\nTransportation\nrings\nGate\n##gne\nByzantine\naccommodate\nfloating\n##dor\nequation\nministry\n##ito\n##gled\nRules\nearthquake\nrevealing\nBrother\nCeltic\nblew\nchairs\nPanama\nLeon\nattractive\ndescendants\nCare\nAmbassador\ntours\nbreathed\nthreatening\n##cho\nsmiles\nLt\nBeginning\n##iness\nfake\nassists\nfame\nstrings\nMobile\nLiu\nparks\nhttp\n1852\nbrush\nAunt\nbullet\nconsciousness\n##sta\n##ther\nconsequences\ngather\ndug\n1851\nbridges\nDoug\n##sion\nArtists\nignore\nCarol\nbrilliant\nradiation\ntemples\nbasin\nclouds\n##cted\nStevens\nspite\nsoap\nconsumer\nDamn\nSnow\nrecruited\n##craft\nAdvanced\ntournaments\nQuinn\nundergraduate\nquestioned\nPalmer\nAnnual\nOthers\nfeeding\nSpider\nprinting\n##orn\ncameras\nfunctional\nChester\nreaders\nAlpha\nuniversal\nFaith\nBrandon\nFrançois\nauthored\nRing\nel\naims\nathletic\npossessed\nVermont\nprogrammes\n##uck\nbore\nFisher\nstatements\nshed\nsaxophone\nneighboring\npronounced\nbarrel\nbags\n##dge\norganisations\npilots\ncasualties\nKenneth\n##brook\nsilently\nMalcolm\nspan\nEssex\nanchor\n##hl\nvirtual\nlessons\nHenri\nTrump\nPage\npile\nlocomotive\nwounds\nuncomfortable\nsustained\nDiana\nEagles\n##pi\n2000s\ndocumented\n##bel\nCassie\ndelay\nkisses\n##ines\nvariation\n##ag\ngrowled\n##mark\n##ways\nLeslie\nstudios\nFriedrich\naunt\nactively\narmor\neaten\nhistorically\nBetter\npurse\nhoney\nratings\n##ée\nnaturally\n1840\npeer\nKenny\nCardinal\ndatabase\nLooking\nrunners\nhandsome\nDouble\nPA\n##boat\n##sted\nprotecting\n##jan\nDiamond\nconcepts\ninterface\n##aki\nWatch\nArticle\nColumbus\ndialogue\npause\n##rio\nextends\nblanket\npulse\n1853\naffiliate\nladies\nRonald\ncounted\nkills\ndemons\n##zation\nAirlines\nMarco\nCat\ncompanion\nmere\nYugoslavia\nForum\nAllan\npioneer\nCompetition\nMethodist\npatent\nnobody\nStockholm\n##ien\nregulation\n##ois\naccomplished\n##itive\nwashed\nsake\nVladimir\ncrops\nprestigious\nhumor\nSally\nlabour\ntributary\ntrap\naltered\nexamined\nMumbai\nbombing\nAsh\n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\n##rlin\nAntioch\nGao\nDíaz\n1760\nSparks\n##tien\n##bidae\nrehearsal\n##bbs\nbotanical\n##hers\ncompensate\nwholesale\nSeville\nshareholder\nprediction\nastronomical\nReddy\nhardest\ncircling\nwhereabouts\ntermination\nRep\nAssistance\nDramatic\nHerb\n##ghter\nclimbs\n188\nPoole\n301\n##pable\nwit\n##istice\nWalters\nrelying\nJakob\n##redo\nproceeding\nLangley\naffiliates\nou\n##allo\n##holm\nSamsung\n##ishi\nMissing\nXi\nvertices\nClaus\nfoam\nrestless\n##uating\n##sso\n##ttering\nPhilips\ndelta\nbombed\nCatalogue\ncoaster\nLing\nWillard\nsatire\n410\nComposition\nNet\nOrioles\n##ldon\nfins\nPalatinate\nWoodward\ntease\ntilt\nbrightness\n##70\n##bbling\n##loss\n##dhi\n##uilt\nWhoever\n##yers\nhitter\nElton\nExtension\nace\nAffair\nrestructuring\n##loping\nPaterson\nhi\n##rya\nspouse\nShay\nHimself\npiles\npreaching\n##gical\nbikes\nBrave\nexpulsion\nMirza\nstride\nTrees\ncommemorated\nfamine\nmasonry\nSelena\nWatt\nBanking\nRancho\nStockton\ndip\ntattoos\nVlad\nacquainted\nFlyers\nruthless\nfourteenth\nillustrate\n##akes\nEPA\n##rows\n##uiz\nbumped\nDesigned\nLeaders\nmastered\nManfred\nswirled\nMcCain\n##rout\nArtemis\nrabbi\nflinched\nupgrades\npenetrate\nshipyard\ntransforming\ncaretaker\n##eiro\nMaureen\ntightening\n##founded\nRAM\n##icular\n##mper\n##rung\nFifteen\nexploited\nconsistency\ninterstate\n##ynn\nBridget\ncontamination\nMistress\n##rup\ncoating\n##FP\n##jective\nLibyan\n211\nGemma\ndependence\nshrubs\n##ggled\nGermain\nretaliation\ntraction\n##PP\nDangerous\nterminology\npsychiatrist\n##garten\nhurdles\nNatal\nwasting\nWeir\nrevolves\nstripe\n##reased\npreferences\n##entation\n##lde\n##áil\n##otherapy\nFlame\n##ologies\nviruses\nLabel\nPandora\nveil\n##ogical\nColiseum\nCottage\ncreeping\nJong\nlectured\n##çaise\nshoreline\n##fference\n##hra\nShade\nClock\nFaye\nbilingual\nHumboldt\nOperating\n##fter\n##was\nalgae\ntowed\namphibious\nParma\nimpacted\nsmacked\nPiedmont\nMonsters\n##omb\nMoor\n##lberg\nsinister\nPostal\n178\nDrummond\nSign\ntextbooks\nhazardous\nBrass\nRosemary\nPick\nSit\nArchitect\ntransverse\nCentennial\nconfess\npolling\n##aia\nJulien\n##mand\nconsolidation\nEthel\n##ulse\nseverity\nYorker\nchoreographer\n1840s\n##ltry\nsofter\nversa\n##geny\n##quila\n##jō\nCaledonia\nFriendship\nVisa\nrogue\n##zzle\nbait\nfeather\nincidence\nFoods\nShips\n##uto\n##stead\narousal\n##rote\nHazel\n##bolic\nSwing\n##ej\n##cule\n##jana\n##metry\n##uity\nValuable\n##ₙ\nShropshire\n##nect\n365\nOnes\nrealise\nCafé\nAlbuquerque\n##grown\n##stadt\n209\n##ᵢ\nprefers\nwithstand\nLillian\nMacArthur\nHara\n##fulness\ndomination\n##VO\n##school\nFreddy\nethnicity\n##while\nadorned\nhormone\nCalder\nDomestic\nFreud\nShields\n##phus\n##rgan\nBP\nSegunda\nMustang\n##GI\nBonn\npatiently\nremarried\n##umbria\nCrete\nElephant\nNuremberg\ntolerate\nTyson\n##evich\nProgramming\n##lander\nBethlehem\nsegregation\nConstituency\nquarterly\nblushed\nphotographers\nSheldon\nporcelain\nBlanche\ngoddamn\nlively\n##fused\nbumps\n##eli\ncurated\ncoherent\nprovoked\n##vet\nMadeleine\n##isco\nrainy\nBethel\naccusation\nponytail\ngag\n##lington\nquicker\nscroll\n##vate\nBow\nGender\nIra\ncrashes\nACT\nMaintenance\n##aton\n##ieu\nbitterly\nstrains\nrattled\nvectors\n##arina\n##ishly\n173\nparole\n##nx\namusing\nGonzalez\n##erative\nCaucus\nsensual\nPenelope\ncoefficient\nMateo\n##mani\nproposition\nDuty\nlacrosse\nproportions\nPlato\nprofiles\nBotswana\nBrandt\nreins\nmandolin\nencompassing\n##gens\nKahn\nprop\nsummon\n##MR\n##yrian\n##zaki\nFalling\nconditional\nthy\n##bao\n##ych\nradioactive\n##nics\nNewspaper\n##people\n##nded\nGaming\nsunny\n##look\nSherwood\ncrafted\nNJ\nawoke\n187\ntimeline\ngiants\npossessing\n##ycle\nCheryl\nng\nRuiz\npolymer\npotassium\nRamsay\nrelocation\n##leen\nSociology\n##bana\nFranciscan\npropulsion\ndenote\n##erjee\nregisters\nheadline\nTests\nemerges\nArticles\nMint\nlivery\nbreakup\nkits\nRap\nBrowning\nBunny\n##mington\n##watch\nAnastasia\nZachary\narranging\nbiographical\nErica\nNippon\n##membrance\nCarmel\n##sport\n##xes\nPaddy\n##holes\nIssues\nSpears\ncompliment\n##stro\n##graphs\nCastillo\n##MU\n##space\nCorporal\n##nent\n174\nGentlemen\n##ilize\n##vage\nconvinces\nCarmine\nCrash\n##hashi\nFiles\nDoctors\nbrownish\nsweating\ngoats\n##conductor\nrendition\n##bt\nNL\n##spiration\ngenerates\n##cans\nobsession\n##noy\nDanger\nDiaz\nheats\nRealm\npriorities\n##phon\n1300\ninitiation\npagan\nbursts\narchipelago\nchloride\nScreenplay\nHewitt\nKhmer\nbang\njudgement\nnegotiating\n##ait\nMabel\ndensely\nBoulder\nknob\n430\nAlfredo\n##kt\npitches\n##ées\n##ان\nMacdonald\n##llum\nimply\n##mot\nSmile\nspherical\n##tura\nDerrick\nKelley\nNico\ncortex\nlaunches\ndiffered\nparallels\nNavigation\n##child\n##rming\ncanoe\nforestry\nreinforce\n##mote\nconfirming\ntasting\nscaled\n##resh\n##eting\nUnderstanding\nprevailing\nPearce\nCW\nearnest\nGaius\nasserts\ndenoted\nlandmarks\nChargers\nwarns\n##flies\nJudges\njagged\n##dain\ntails\nHistorian\nMillie\n##sler\n221\n##uard\nabsurd\nDion\n##ially\nmakeshift\nSpecifically\nignorance\nEat\n##ieri\ncomparisons\nforensic\n186\nGiro\nskeptical\ndisciplinary\nbattleship\n##45\nLibby\n520\nOdyssey\nledge\n##post\nEternal\nMissionary\ndeficiency\nsettler\nwonders\n##gai\nraging\n##cis\nRomney\nUlrich\nannexation\nboxers\nsect\n204\nARIA\ndei\nHitchcock\nte\nVarsity\n##fic\nCC\nlending\n##nial\n##tag\n##rdy\n##obe\nDefensive\n##dson\n##pore\nstellar\nLam\nTrials\ncontention\nSung\n##uminous\nPoe\nsuperiority\n##plicate\n325\nbitten\nconspicuous\n##olly\nLila\nPub\nPetit\ndistorted\nISIL\ndistinctly\n##family\nCowboy\nmutant\n##cats\n##week\nChanges\nSinatra\nepithet\nneglect\nInnocent\ngamma\nthrill\nreggae\n##adia\n##ational\n##due\nlandlord\n##leaf\nvisibly\n##ì\nDarlington\nGomez\n##iting\nscarf\n##lade\nHinduism\nFever\nscouts\n##roi\nconvened\n##oki\n184\nLao\nboycott\nunemployed\n##lore\n##ß\n##hammer\nCurran\ndisciples\nodor\n##ygiene\nLighthouse\nPlayed\nwhales\ndiscretion\nYves\n##ceived\npauses\ncoincide\n##nji\ndizzy\n##scopic\nrouted\nGuardians\nKellan\ncarnival\nnasal\n224\n##awed\nMitsubishi\n640\nCast\nsilky\nProjects\njoked\nHuddersfield\nRothschild\nzu\n##olar\nDivisions\nmildly\n##eni\n##lge\nAppalachian\nSahara\npinch\n##roon\nwardrobe\n##dham\n##etal\nBubba\n##lini\n##rumbling\nCommunities\nPoznań\nunification\nBeau\nKris\nSV\nRowing\nMinh\nreconciliation\n##saki\n##sor\ntaped\n##reck\ncertificates\ngubernatorial\nrainbow\n##uing\nlitter\n##lique\n##oted\nButterfly\nbenefited\nImages\ninduce\nBalkans\nVelvet\n##90\n##xon\nBowman\n##breaker\npenis\n##nitz\n##oint\n##otive\ncrust\n##pps\norganizers\nOutdoor\nnominees\n##rika\nTX\n##ucks\nProtestants\n##imation\nappetite\nBaja\nawaited\n##points\nwindshield\n##igh\n##zled\nBrody\nBuster\nstylized\nBryce\n##sz\nDollar\nvest\nmold\nounce\nok\nreceivers\n##uza\nPurdue\nHarrington\nHodges\ncaptures\n##ggio\nReservation\n##ssin\n##tman\ncosmic\nstraightforward\nflipping\nremixed\n##athed\nGómez\nLim\nmotorcycles\neconomies\nowning\nDani\n##rosis\nmyths\nsire\nkindly\n1768\nBean\ngraphs\n##mee\n##RO\n##geon\npuppy\nStephenson\nnotified\n##jer\nWatching\n##rama\nSino\nurgency\nIslanders\n##mash\nPlata\nfumble\n##chev\n##stance\n##rack\n##she\nfacilitated\nswings\nakin\nenduring\npayload\n##phine\nDeputies\nmurals\n##tooth\n610\nJays\neyeing\n##quito\ntransparency\n##cote\nTimor\nnegatively\n##isan\nbattled\n##fected\nthankful\nRage\nhospitality\nincorrectly\n207\nentrepreneurs\n##cula\n##wley\nhedge\n##cratic\nCorpus\nOdessa\nWhereas\n##ln\nfetch\nhappier\nAmherst\nbullying\ngraceful\nHeight\nBartholomew\nwillingness\nqualifier\n191\nSyed\nWesleyan\nLayla\n##rrence\nWebber\n##hum\nRat\n##cket\n##herence\nMonterey\ncontaminated\nBeside\nMustafa\nNana\n213\n##pruce\nReason\n##spense\nspike\n##gé\nAU\ndisciple\ncharcoal\n##lean\nformulated\nDiesel\nMariners\naccreditation\nglossy\n1800s\n##ih\nMainz\nunison\nMarianne\nshear\noverseeing\nvernacular\nbowled\n##lett\nunpopular\n##ckoned\n##monia\nGaston\n##TI\n##oters\nCups\n##bones\n##ports\nMuseo\nminors\n1773\nDickens\n##EL\n##NBC\nPresents\nambitions\naxes\nRío\nYukon\nbedside\nRibbon\nUnits\nfaults\nconceal\n##lani\nprevailed\n214\nGoodwin\nJaguar\ncrumpled\nCullen\nWireless\nceded\nremotely\nBin\nmocking\nstraps\nceramics\n##avi\n##uding\n##ader\nTaft\ntwenties\n##aked\nProblem\nquasi\nLamar\n##ntes\n##avan\nBarr\n##eral\nhooks\nsa\n##ône\n194\n##ross\nNero\nCaine\ntrance\nHomeland\nbenches\nGuthrie\ndismiss\n##lex\nCésar\nfoliage\n##oot\n##alty\nAssyrian\nAhead\nMurdoch\ndictatorship\nwraps\n##ntal\nCorridor\nMackay\nrespectable\njewels\nunderstands\n##pathic\nBryn\n##tep\nON\ncapsule\nintrigued\nSleeping\ncommunists\n##chayat\n##current\n##vez\ndoubling\nbooklet\n##uche\nCreed\n##NU\nspies\n##sef\nadjusting\n197\nImam\nheaved\nTanya\ncanonical\nrestraint\nsenators\nstainless\n##gnate\nMatter\ncache\nrestrained\nconflicting\nstung\n##ool\nSustainable\nantiquity\n193\nheavens\ninclusive\n##ador\nfluent\n303\n911\narchaeologist\nsuperseded\n##plex\nTammy\ninspire\n##passing\n##lub\nLama\nMixing\n##activated\n##yote\nparlor\ntactic\n198\nStefano\nprostitute\nrecycling\nsorted\nbanana\nStacey\nMusée\naristocratic\ncough\n##rting\nauthorised\ngangs\nrunoff\nthoughtfully\n##nish\nFisheries\nProvence\ndetector\nhum\n##zhen\npill\n##árez\nMap\nLeaves\nPeabody\nskater\nvent\n##color\n390\ncerebral\nhostages\nmare\nJurassic\nswell\n##isans\nKnoxville\nNaked\nMalaya\nscowl\nCobra\n##anga\nSexual\n##dron\n##iae\n196\n##drick\nRavens\nBlaine\n##throp\nIsmail\nsymmetric\n##lossom\nLeicestershire\nSylvester\nglazed\n##tended\nRadar\nfused\nFamilies\nBlacks\nSale\nZion\nfoothills\nmicrowave\nslain\nCollingwood\n##pants\n##dling\nkillers\nroutinely\nJanice\nhearings\n##chanted\n##ltration\ncontinents\n##iving\n##yster\n##shot\n##yna\ninjected\nGuillaume\n##ibi\nkinda\nConfederacy\nBarnett\ndisasters\nincapable\n##grating\nrhythms\nbetting\ndraining\n##hak\nCallie\nGlover\n##iliated\nSherlock\nhearted\npunching\nWolverhampton\nLeaf\nPi\nbuilders\nfurnished\nknighted\nPhoto\n##zle\nTouring\nfumbled\npads\n##ий\nBartlett\nGunner\neerie\nMarius\nBonus\npots\n##hino\n##pta\nBray\nFrey\nOrtiz\nstalls\nbelongings\nSubway\nfascination\nmetaphor\nBat\nBoer\nColchester\nsway\n##gro\nrhetoric\n##dheim\nFool\nPMID\nadmire\n##hsil\nStrand\nTNA\n##roth\nNottinghamshire\n##mat\n##yler\nOxfordshire\n##nacle\n##roner\nBS\n##nces\nstimulus\ntransports\nSabbath\n##postle\nRichter\n4000\n##grim\n##shima\n##lette\ndeteriorated\nanalogous\n##ratic\nUHF\nenergies\ninspiring\nYiddish\nActivities\n##quential\n##boe\nMelville\n##ilton\nJudd\nconsonants\nlabs\nsmuggling\n##fari\navid\n##uc\ntruce\nundead\n##raith\nMostly\nbracelet\nConnection\nHussain\nawhile\n##UC\n##vention\nliable\ngenetically\n##phic\nImportant\nWildcats\ndaddy\ntransmit\n##cas\nconserved\nYesterday\n##lite\nNicky\nGuys\nWilder\nLay\nskinned\nCommunists\nGarfield\nNearby\norganizer\nLoss\ncrafts\nwalkway\nChocolate\nSundance\nSynod\n##enham\nmodify\nswayed\nSurface\nanalysts\nbrackets\ndrone\nparachute\nsmelling\nAndrés\nfilthy\nfrogs\nvertically\n##OK\nlocalities\nmarries\nAHL\n35th\n##pian\nPalazzo\ncube\ndismay\nrelocate\n##на\nHear\n##digo\n##oxide\nprefecture\nconverts\nhangar\n##oya\n##ucking\nSpectrum\ndeepened\nspoiled\nKeeping\n##phobic\nVerona\noutrage\nImprovement\n##UI\nmasterpiece\nslung\nCalling\nchant\nHaute\nmediated\nmanipulated\naffirmed\n##hesis\nHangul\nskies\n##llan\nWorcestershire\n##kos\nmosaic\n##bage\n##wned\nPutnam\nfolder\n##LM\nguts\nnoteworthy\n##rada\nAJ\nsculpted\n##iselle\n##rang\nrecognizable\n##pent\ndolls\nlobbying\nimpatiently\nSe\nstaple\nSerb\ntandem\nHiroshima\nthieves\n##ynx\nfaculties\nNorte\n##alle\n##trusion\nchords\n##ylon\nGareth\n##lops\n##escu\nFIA\nLevin\nauspices\ngroin\nHui\nnun\nListed\nHonourable\nLarsen\nrigorous\n##erer\nTonga\n##pment\n##rave\n##track\n##aa\n##enary\n540\nclone\nsediment\nesteem\nsighted\ncruelty\n##boa\ninverse\nviolating\nAmtrak\nStatus\namalgamated\nvertex\nAR\nharmless\nAmir\nmounts\nCoronation\ncounseling\nAudi\nCO₂\nsplits\n##eyer\nHumans\nSalmon\n##have\n##rado\n##čić\n216\ntakeoff\nclassmates\npsychedelic\n##gni\nGypsy\n231\nAnger\nGAA\nME\n##nist\n##tals\nLissa\nOdd\nbaptized\nFiat\nfringe\n##hren\n179\nelevators\nperspectives\n##TF\n##ngle\nQuestion\nfrontal\n950\nthicker\nMolecular\n##nological\nSixteen\nBaton\nHearing\ncommemorative\ndorm\nArchitectural\npurity\n##erse\nrisky\nGeorgie\nrelaxing\n##ugs\ndowned\n##rar\nSlim\n##phy\nIUCN\n##thorpe\nParkinson\n217\nMarley\nShipping\nsweaty\nJesuits\nSindh\nJanata\nimplying\nArmenians\nintercept\nAnkara\ncommissioners\nascended\nsniper\nGrass\nWalls\nsalvage\nDewey\ngeneralized\nlearnt\nPT\n##fighter\n##tech\nDR\n##itrus\n##zza\nmercenaries\nslots\n##burst\n##finger\n##nsky\nPrinces\nRhodesia\n##munication\n##strom\nFremantle\nhomework\nins\n##Os\n##hao\n##uffed\nThorpe\nXiao\nexquisite\nfirstly\nliberated\ntechnician\nOilers\nPhyllis\nherb\nsharks\nMBE\n##stock\nProduct\nbanjo\n##morandum\n##than\nVisitors\nunavailable\nunpublished\noxidation\nVogue\n##copic\n##etics\nYates\n##ppard\nLeiden\nTrading\ncottages\nPrinciples\n##Millan\n##wife\n##hiva\nVicar\nnouns\nstrolled\n##eorological\n##eton\n##science\nprecedent\nArmand\nGuido\nrewards\n##ilis\n##tise\nclipped\nchick\n##endra\naverages\ntentatively\n1830s\n##vos\nCertainly\n305\nSociété\nCommandant\n##crats\n##dified\n##nka\nmarsh\nangered\nventilation\nHutton\nRitchie\n##having\nEclipse\nflick\nmotionless\nAmor\nFest\nLoire\nlays\n##icit\n##sband\nGuggenheim\nLuck\ndisrupted\n##ncia\nDisco\n##vigator\ncriticisms\ngrins\n##lons\n##vial\n##ody\nsalute\nCoaches\njunk\nsaxophonist\n##eology\nUprising\nDiet\n##marks\nchronicles\nrobbed\n##iet\n##ahi\nBohemian\nmagician\nwavelength\nKenyan\naugmented\nfashionable\n##ogies\nLuce\nF1\nMonmouth\n##jos\n##loop\nenjoyment\nexemption\nCenters\n##visor\nSoundtrack\nblinding\npractitioner\nsolidarity\nsacrificed\n##oso\n##cture\n##riated\nblended\nAbd\nCopyright\n##nob\n34th\n##reak\nClaudio\nhectare\nrotor\ntestify\n##ends\n##iably\n##sume\nlandowner\n##cess\n##ckman\nEduard\nSilesian\nbackseat\nmutually\n##abe\nMallory\nbounds\nCollective\nPoet\nWinkler\npertaining\nscraped\nPhelps\ncrane\nflickering\nProto\nbubbles\npopularized\nremoves\n##86\nCadillac\nWarfare\naudible\nrites\nshivering\n##sist\n##nst\n##biotic\nMon\nfascist\nBali\nKathryn\nambiguous\nfuriously\nmorale\npatio\nSang\ninconsistent\ntopology\nGreens\nmonkeys\nKöppen\n189\nToy\nvow\n##ías\nbombings\n##culus\nimprovised\nlodged\nsubsidiaries\ngarment\nstartling\npractised\nHume\nThorn\ncategorized\nTill\nEileen\nwedge\n##64\nFederico\npatriotic\nunlock\n##oshi\nbadminton\nCompared\nVilnius\n##KE\nCrimean\nKemp\ndecks\nspaced\nresolutions\nsighs\n##mind\nImagine\nCartoon\nhuddled\npolicemen\nforwards\n##rouch\nequals\n##nter\ninspected\nCharley\nMG\n##rte\npamphlet\nArturo\ndans\nscarcely\n##ulton\n##rvin\nparental\nunconstitutional\nwatts\nSusannah\nDare\n##sitive\nRowland\nValle\ninvalid\n##ué\nDetachment\nacronym\nYokohama\nverified\n##ls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}, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/.gitignore", "content": "# JetBrains PyCharm IDE\n.idea/\n\n# Byte-compiled / optimized / DLL files\n__pycache__/\n*.py[cod]\n*$py.class\n\n# C extensions\n*.so\n\n# macOS dir files\n.DS_Store\n\n# Distribution / packaging\n.Python\nenv/\nbuild/\ndevelop-eggs/\ndist/\ndownloads/\neggs/\n.eggs/\nlib/\nlib64/\nparts/\nsdist/\nvar/\nwheels/\n*.egg-info/\n.installed.cfg\n*.egg\n\n# Checkpoints\ncheckpoints\n\n# PyInstaller\n# Usually these files are written by a python script from a template\n# before PyInstaller builds the exe, so as to inject date/other infos into it.\n*.manifest\n*.spec\n\n# Installer logs\npip-log.txt\npip-delete-this-directory.txt\n\n# Unit test / coverage reports\nhtmlcov/\n.tox/\n.coverage\n.coverage.*\n.cache\nnosetests.xml\ncoverage.xml\n*.cover\n.hypothesis/\n\n# Translations\n*.mo\n*.pot\n\n# Django stuff:\n*.log\nlocal_settings.py\n\n# Flask stuff:\ninstance/\n.webassets-cache\n\n# Scrapy stuff:\n.scrapy\n\n# Sphinx documentation\ndocs/_build/\n\n# PyBuilder\ntarget/\n\n# Jupyter Notebook\n.ipynb_checkpoints\n\n# pyenv\n.python-version\n\n# celery beat schedule file\ncelerybeat-schedule\n\n# SageMath parsed files\n*.sage.py\n\n# dotenv\n.env\n\n# virtualenv\n.venv\nvenv/\nENV/\n\n# Spyder project settings\n.spyderproject\n.spyproject\n\n# Rope project settings\n.ropeproject\n\n# mkdocs documentation\n/site\n\n# mypy\n.mypy_cache/\n\n# Generated files\n/fairseq/temporal_convolution_tbc\n/fairseq/modules/*_layer/*_forward.cu\n/fairseq/modules/*_layer/*_backward.cu\n\n# data\ndata-bin/\n\n# reranking\n/examples/reranking/rerank_data\n\n# Cython-generated C++ source files\n/fairseq/data/data_utils_fast.cpp\n/fairseq/data/token_block_utils_fast.cpp\n\n# VSCODE\n.vscode/ftp-sync.json\n.vscode/settings.json\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/CODE_OF_CONDUCT.md", "content": "# Code of Conduct\n\n## Our Pledge\n\nIn the interest of fostering an open and welcoming environment, we as\ncontributors and maintainers pledge to make participation in our project and\nour community a harassment-free experience for everyone, regardless of age, body\nsize, disability, ethnicity, sex characteristics, gender identity and expression,\nlevel of experience, education, socio-economic status, nationality, personal\nappearance, race, religion, or sexual identity and orientation.\n\n## Our Standards\n\nExamples of behavior that contributes to creating a positive environment\ninclude:\n\n* Using welcoming and inclusive language\n* Being respectful of differing viewpoints and experiences\n* Gracefully accepting constructive criticism\n* Focusing on what is best for the community\n* Showing empathy towards other community members\n\nExamples of unacceptable behavior by participants include:\n\n* The use of sexualized language or imagery and unwelcome sexual attention or\n advances\n* Trolling, insulting/derogatory comments, and personal or political attacks\n* Public or private harassment\n* Publishing others' private information, such as a physical or electronic\n address, without explicit permission\n* Other conduct which could reasonably be considered inappropriate in a\n professional setting\n\n## Our Responsibilities\n\nProject maintainers are responsible for clarifying the standards of acceptable\nbehavior and are expected to take appropriate and fair corrective action in\nresponse to any instances of unacceptable behavior.\n\nProject maintainers have the right and responsibility to remove, edit, or\nreject comments, commits, code, wiki edits, issues, and other contributions\nthat are not aligned to this Code of Conduct, or to ban temporarily or\npermanently any contributor for other behaviors that they deem inappropriate,\nthreatening, offensive, or harmful.\n\n## Scope\n\nThis Code of Conduct applies within all project spaces, and it also applies when\nan individual is representing the project or its community in public spaces.\nExamples of representing a project or community include using an official\nproject e-mail address, posting via an official social media account, or acting\nas an appointed representative at an online or offline event. Representation of\na project may be further defined and clarified by project maintainers.\n\n## Enforcement\n\nInstances of abusive, harassing, or otherwise unacceptable behavior may be\nreported by contacting the project team at . All\ncomplaints will be reviewed and investigated and will result in a response that\nis deemed necessary and appropriate to the circumstances. The project team is\nobligated to maintain confidentiality with regard to the reporter of an incident.\nFurther details of specific enforcement policies may be posted separately.\n\nProject maintainers who do not follow or enforce the Code of Conduct in good\nfaith may face temporary or permanent repercussions as determined by other\nmembers of the project's leadership.\n\n## Attribution\n\nThis Code of Conduct is adapted from the [Contributor Covenant][homepage], version 1.4,\navailable at https://www.contributor-covenant.org/version/1/4/code-of-conduct.html\n\n[homepage]: https://www.contributor-covenant.org\n\nFor answers to common questions about this code of conduct, see\nhttps://www.contributor-covenant.org/faq\n\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/CONTRIBUTING.md", "content": "# Contributing to Facebook AI Research Sequence-to-Sequence Toolkit (fairseq)\nWe want to make contributing to this project as easy and transparent as\npossible.\n\n## Pull Requests\nWe actively welcome your pull requests.\n\n1. Fork the repo and create your branch from `master`.\n2. If you've added code that should be tested, add tests.\n3. If you've changed APIs, update the documentation.\n4. Ensure the test suite passes.\n5. Make sure your code lints.\n6. If you haven't already, complete the Contributor License Agreement (\"CLA\").\n\n## Contributor License Agreement (\"CLA\")\nIn order to accept your pull request, we need you to submit a CLA. You only need\nto do this once to work on any of Facebook's open source projects.\n\nComplete your CLA here: \n\n## Issues\nWe use GitHub issues to track public bugs. Please ensure your description is\nclear and has sufficient instructions to be able to reproduce the issue.\n\n## License\nBy contributing to Facebook AI Research Sequence-to-Sequence Toolkit (fairseq),\nyou agree that your contributions will be licensed under the LICENSE file in\nthe root directory of this source tree.\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/LICENSE", "content": "MIT License\n\nCopyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n\nPermission is hereby granted, free of charge, to any person obtaining a copy\nof this software and associated documentation files (the \"Software\"), to deal\nin the Software without restriction, including without limitation the rights\nto use, copy, modify, merge, publish, distribute, sublicense, and/or sell\ncopies of the Software, and to permit persons to whom the Software is\nfurnished to do so, subject to the following conditions:\n\nThe above copyright notice and this permission notice shall be included in all\ncopies or substantial portions of the Software.\n\nTHE SOFTWARE IS PROVIDED \"AS IS\", WITHOUT WARRANTY OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR\nIMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO THE WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY,\nFITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE AND NONINFRINGEMENT. IN NO EVENT SHALL THE\nAUTHORS OR COPYRIGHT HOLDERS BE LIABLE FOR ANY CLAIM, DAMAGES OR OTHER\nLIABILITY, WHETHER IN AN ACTION OF CONTRACT, TORT OR OTHERWISE, ARISING FROM,\nOUT OF OR IN CONNECTION WITH THE SOFTWARE OR THE USE OR OTHER DEALINGS IN THE\nSOFTWARE.\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/README.md", "content": "# Introduction\n\nFairseq(-py) is a sequence modeling toolkit that allows researchers and\ndevelopers to train custom models for translation, summarization, language\nmodeling and other text generation tasks.\n\n### What's New:\n\n- November 2019: [CamemBERT model and code released](examples/camembert/README.md)\n- November 2019: [BART model and code released](examples/bart/README.md)\n- November 2019: [XLM-R models and code released](examples/xlmr/README.md)\n- September 2019: [Nonautoregressive translation code released](examples/nonautoregressive_translation/README.md)\n- August 2019: [WMT'19 models released](examples/wmt19/README.md)\n- July 2019: fairseq relicensed under MIT license\n- July 2019: [RoBERTa models and code released](examples/roberta/README.md)\n- June 2019: [wav2vec models and code released](examples/wav2vec/README.md)\n\n### Features:\n\nFairseq provides reference implementations of various sequence-to-sequence models, including:\n- **Convolutional Neural Networks (CNN)**\n - [Language Modeling with Gated Convolutional Networks (Dauphin et al., 2017)](examples/language_model/conv_lm/README.md)\n - [Convolutional Sequence to Sequence Learning (Gehring et al., 2017)](examples/conv_seq2seq/README.md)\n - [Classical Structured Prediction Losses for Sequence to Sequence Learning (Edunov et al., 2018)](https://github.com/pytorch/fairseq/tree/classic_seqlevel)\n - [Hierarchical Neural Story Generation (Fan et al., 2018)](examples/stories/README.md)\n - [wav2vec: Unsupervised Pre-training for Speech Recognition (Schneider et al., 2019)](examples/wav2vec/README.md)\n- **LightConv and DynamicConv models**\n - [Pay Less Attention with Lightweight and Dynamic Convolutions (Wu et al., 2019)](examples/pay_less_attention_paper/README.md)\n- **Long Short-Term Memory (LSTM) networks**\n - Effective Approaches to Attention-based Neural Machine Translation (Luong et al., 2015)\n- **Transformer (self-attention) networks**\n - Attention Is All You Need (Vaswani et al., 2017)\n - [Scaling Neural Machine Translation (Ott et al., 2018)](examples/scaling_nmt/README.md)\n - [Understanding Back-Translation at Scale (Edunov et al., 2018)](examples/backtranslation/README.md)\n - [Adaptive Input Representations for Neural Language Modeling (Baevski and Auli, 2018)](examples/language_model/transformer_lm/README.md)\n - [Mixture Models for Diverse Machine Translation: Tricks of the Trade (Shen et al., 2019)](examples/translation_moe/README.md)\n - [RoBERTa: A Robustly Optimized BERT Pretraining Approach (Liu et al., 2019)](examples/roberta/README.md)\n - [Facebook FAIR's WMT19 News Translation Task Submission (Ng et al., 2019)](examples/wmt19/README.md)\n - [Jointly Learning to Align and Translate with Transformer Models (Garg et al., 2019)](examples/joint_alignment_translation/README.md )\n- **Non-autoregressive Transformers**\n - Non-Autoregressive Neural Machine Translation (Gu et al., 2017)\n - Deterministic Non-Autoregressive Neural Sequence Modeling by Iterative Refinement (Lee et al. 2018)\n - Insertion Transformer: Flexible Sequence Generation via Insertion Operations (Stern et al. 2019)\n - Mask-Predict: Parallel Decoding of Conditional Masked Language Models (Ghazvininejad et al., 2019)\n - [Levenshtein Transformer (Gu et al., 2019)](examples/nonautoregressive_translation/README.md)\n\n\n**Additionally:**\n- multi-GPU (distributed) training on one machine or across multiple machines\n- fast generation on both CPU and GPU with multiple search algorithms implemented:\n - beam search\n - Diverse Beam Search ([Vijayakumar et al., 2016](https://arxiv.org/abs/1610.02424))\n - sampling (unconstrained, top-k and top-p/nucleus)\n- large mini-batch training even on a single GPU via delayed updates\n- mixed precision training (trains faster with less GPU memory on [NVIDIA tensor cores](https://developer.nvidia.com/tensor-cores))\n- extensible: easily register new models, criterions, tasks, optimizers and learning rate schedulers\n\nWe also provide [pre-trained models for translation and language modeling](#pre-trained-models-and-examples)\nwith a convenient `torch.hub` interface:\n```python\nen2de = torch.hub.load('pytorch/fairseq', 'transformer.wmt19.en-de.single_model')\nen2de.translate('Hello world', beam=5)\n# 'Hallo Welt'\n```\nSee the PyTorch Hub tutorials for [translation](https://pytorch.org/hub/pytorch_fairseq_translation/)\nand [RoBERTa](https://pytorch.org/hub/pytorch_fairseq_roberta/) for more examples.\n\n![Model](fairseq.gif)\n\n# Requirements and Installation\n\n* [PyTorch](http://pytorch.org/) version >= 1.2.0\n* Python version >= 3.5\n* For training new models, you'll also need an NVIDIA GPU and [NCCL](https://github.com/NVIDIA/nccl)\n* **For faster training** install NVIDIA's [apex](https://github.com/NVIDIA/apex) library with the `--cuda_ext` option\n\nTo install fairseq:\n```bash\npip install fairseq\n```\n\nOn MacOS:\n```bash\nCFLAGS=\"-stdlib=libc++\" pip install fairseq\n```\n\nIf you use Docker make sure to increase the shared memory size either with\n`--ipc=host` or `--shm-size` as command line options to `nvidia-docker run`.\n\n**Installing from source**\n\nTo install fairseq from source and develop locally:\n```bash\ngit clone https://github.com/pytorch/fairseq\ncd fairseq\npip install --editable .\n```\n\n# Getting Started\n\nThe [full documentation](https://fairseq.readthedocs.io/) contains instructions\nfor getting started, training new models and extending fairseq with new model\ntypes and tasks.\n\n# Pre-trained models and examples\n\nWe provide pre-trained models and pre-processed, binarized test sets for several tasks listed below,\nas well as example training and evaluation commands.\n\n- [Translation](examples/translation/README.md): convolutional and transformer models are available\n- [Language Modeling](examples/language_model/README.md): convolutional and transformer models are available\n- [wav2vec](examples/wav2vec/README.md): wav2vec large model is available\n\nWe also have more detailed READMEs to reproduce results from specific papers:\n- [Jointly Learning to Align and Translate with Transformer Models (Garg et al., 2019)](examples/joint_alignment_translation/README.md )\n- [Levenshtein Transformer (Gu et al., 2019)](examples/nonautoregressive_translation/README.md)\n- [Facebook FAIR's WMT19 News Translation Task Submission (Ng et al., 2019)](examples/wmt19/README.md)\n- [RoBERTa: A Robustly Optimized BERT Pretraining Approach (Liu et al., 2019)](examples/roberta/README.md)\n- [wav2vec: Unsupervised Pre-training for Speech Recognition (Schneider et al., 2019)](examples/wav2vec/README.md)\n- [Mixture Models for Diverse Machine Translation: Tricks of the Trade (Shen et al., 2019)](examples/translation_moe/README.md)\n- [Pay Less Attention with Lightweight and Dynamic Convolutions (Wu et al., 2019)](examples/pay_less_attention_paper/README.md)\n- [Understanding Back-Translation at Scale (Edunov et al., 2018)](examples/backtranslation/README.md)\n- [Classical Structured Prediction Losses for Sequence to Sequence Learning (Edunov et al., 2018)](https://github.com/pytorch/fairseq/tree/classic_seqlevel)\n- [Hierarchical Neural Story Generation (Fan et al., 2018)](examples/stories/README.md)\n- [Scaling Neural Machine Translation (Ott et al., 2018)](examples/scaling_nmt/README.md)\n- [Convolutional Sequence to Sequence Learning (Gehring et al., 2017)](examples/conv_seq2seq/README.md)\n- [Language Modeling with Gated Convolutional Networks (Dauphin et al., 2017)](examples/language_model/conv_lm/README.md)\n\n# Join the fairseq community\n\n* Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/groups/fairseq.users\n* Google group: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/fairseq-users\n\n# License\nfairseq(-py) is MIT-licensed.\nThe license applies to the pre-trained models as well.\n\n# Citation\n\nPlease cite as:\n\n```bibtex\n@inproceedings{ott2019fairseq,\n title = {fairseq: A Fast, Extensible Toolkit for Sequence Modeling},\n author = {Myle Ott and Sergey Edunov and Alexei Baevski and Angela Fan and Sam Gross and Nathan Ng and David Grangier and Michael Auli},\n booktitle = {Proceedings of NAACL-HLT 2019: Demonstrations},\n year = {2019},\n}\n```\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/docs/Makefile", "content": "# Minimal makefile for Sphinx documentation\n#\n\n# You can set these variables from the command line.\nSPHINXOPTS =\nSPHINXBUILD = python -msphinx\nSPHINXPROJ = fairseq\nSOURCEDIR = .\nBUILDDIR = _build\n\n# Put it first so that \"make\" without argument is like \"make help\".\nhelp:\n\t@$(SPHINXBUILD) -M help \"$(SOURCEDIR)\" \"$(BUILDDIR)\" $(SPHINXOPTS) $(O)\n\n.PHONY: help Makefile\n\n# Catch-all target: route all unknown targets to Sphinx using the new\n# \"make mode\" option. $(O) is meant as a shortcut for $(SPHINXOPTS).\n%: Makefile\n\t@$(SPHINXBUILD) -M $@ \"$(SOURCEDIR)\" \"$(BUILDDIR)\" $(SPHINXOPTS) $(O)" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/docs/_static/theme_overrides.css", "content": ".wy-table-responsive table td kbd {\n white-space: nowrap;\n}\n.wy-table-responsive table td {\n white-space: normal !important;\n}\n.wy-table-responsive {\n overflow: visible !important;\n}\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/docs/command_line_tools.rst", "content": ".. _Command-line Tools:\n\nCommand-line Tools\n==================\n\nFairseq provides several command-line tools for training and evaluating models:\n\n- :ref:`fairseq-preprocess`: Data pre-processing: build vocabularies and binarize training data\n- :ref:`fairseq-train`: Train a new model on one or multiple GPUs\n- :ref:`fairseq-generate`: Translate pre-processed data with a trained model\n- :ref:`fairseq-interactive`: Translate raw text with a trained model\n- :ref:`fairseq-score`: BLEU scoring of generated translations against reference translations\n- :ref:`fairseq-eval-lm`: Language model evaluation\n\n\n.. _fairseq-preprocess:\n\nfairseq-preprocess\n~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\n.. automodule:: preprocess\n\n .. argparse::\n :module: fairseq.options\n :func: get_preprocessing_parser\n :prog: fairseq-preprocess\n\n\n.. _fairseq-train:\n\nfairseq-train\n~~~~~~~~~~~~~\n.. automodule:: train\n\n .. argparse::\n :module: fairseq.options\n :func: get_training_parser\n :prog: fairseq-train\n\n\n.. _fairseq-generate:\n\nfairseq-generate\n~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\n.. automodule:: generate\n\n .. argparse::\n :module: fairseq.options\n :func: get_generation_parser\n :prog: fairseq-generate\n\n\n.. _fairseq-interactive:\n\nfairseq-interactive\n~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\n.. automodule:: interactive\n\n .. argparse::\n :module: fairseq.options\n :func: get_interactive_generation_parser\n :prog: fairseq-interactive\n\n\n.. _fairseq-score:\n\nfairseq-score\n~~~~~~~~~~~~~\n.. automodule:: score\n\n .. argparse::\n :module: fairseq_cli.score\n :func: get_parser\n :prog: fairseq-score\n\n\n.. _fairseq-eval-lm:\n\nfairseq-eval-lm\n~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\n.. automodule:: eval_lm\n\n .. argparse::\n :module: fairseq.options\n :func: get_eval_lm_parser\n :prog: fairseq-eval-lm\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/docs/conf.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3\n# -*- coding: utf-8 -*-\n#\n# fairseq documentation build configuration file, created by\n# sphinx-quickstart on Fri Aug 17 21:45:30 2018.\n#\n# This file is execfile()d with the current directory set to its\n# containing dir.\n#\n# Note that not all possible configuration values are present in this\n# autogenerated file.\n#\n# All configuration values have a default; values that are commented out\n# serve to show the default.\n\n# If extensions (or modules to document with autodoc) are in another directory,\n# add these directories to sys.path here. If the directory is relative to the\n# documentation root, use os.path.abspath to make it absolute, like shown here.\n\nimport os\nimport sys\n\n# source code directory, relative to this file, for sphinx-autobuild\nsys.path.insert(0, os.path.abspath(\"..\"))\n\nsource_suffix = [\".rst\"]\n\n# -- General configuration ------------------------------------------------\n\n# If your documentation needs a minimal Sphinx version, state it here.\n#\n# needs_sphinx = '1.0'\n\n# Add any Sphinx extension module names here, as strings. They can be\n# extensions coming with Sphinx (named 'sphinx.ext.*') or your custom\n# ones.\nextensions = [\n \"sphinx.ext.autodoc\",\n \"sphinx.ext.intersphinx\",\n \"sphinx.ext.viewcode\",\n \"sphinx.ext.napoleon\",\n \"sphinxarg.ext\",\n]\n\n# Add any paths that contain templates here, relative to this directory.\ntemplates_path = [\"_templates\"]\n\n# The master toctree document.\nmaster_doc = \"index\"\n\n# General information about the project.\nproject = \"fairseq\"\ncopyright = \"2019, Facebook AI Research (FAIR)\"\nauthor = \"Facebook AI Research (FAIR)\"\n\ngithub_doc_root = \"https://github.com/pytorch/fairseq/tree/master/docs/\"\n\n# The version info for the project you're documenting, acts as replacement for\n# |version| and |release|, also used in various other places throughout the\n# built documents.\n#\n# The short X.Y version.\nversion = \"0.9.0\"\n# The full version, including alpha/beta/rc tags.\nrelease = \"0.9.0\"\n\n# The language for content autogenerated by Sphinx. Refer to documentation\n# for a list of supported languages.\n#\n# This is also used if you do content translation via gettext catalogs.\n# Usually you set \"language\" from the command line for these cases.\nlanguage = None\n\n# List of patterns, relative to source directory, that match files and\n# directories to ignore when looking for source files.\n# This patterns also effect to html_static_path and html_extra_path\nexclude_patterns = [\"_build\", \"Thumbs.db\", \".DS_Store\"]\n\n# The name of the Pygments (syntax highlighting) style to use.\npygments_style = \"sphinx\"\nhighlight_language = \"python\"\n\n# If true, `todo` and `todoList` produce output, else they produce nothing.\ntodo_include_todos = False\n\n\n# -- Options for HTML output ----------------------------------------------\n\n# The theme to use for HTML and HTML Help pages. See the documentation for\n# a list of builtin themes.\n#\nhtml_theme = \"sphinx_rtd_theme\"\n\n# Theme options are theme-specific and customize the look and feel of a theme\n# further. For a list of options available for each theme, see the\n# documentation.\n#\n# html_theme_options = {}\n\n# Add any paths that contain custom static files (such as style sheets) here,\n# relative to this directory. They are copied after the builtin static files,\n# so a file named \"default.css\" will overwrite the builtin \"default.css\".\nhtml_static_path = [\"_static\"]\n\nhtml_context = {\n \"css_files\": [\"_static/theme_overrides.css\",], # override wide tables in RTD theme\n}\n\n# Custom sidebar templates, must be a dictionary that maps document names\n# to template names.\n#\n# This is required for the alabaster theme\n# refs: http://alabaster.readthedocs.io/en/latest/installation.html#sidebars\n# html_sidebars = {\n# '**': [\n# 'about.html',\n# 'navigation.html',\n# 'relations.html', # needs 'show_related': True theme option to display\n# 'searchbox.html',\n# 'donate.html',\n# ]\n# }\n\n\n# Example configuration for intersphinx: refer to the Python standard library.\nintersphinx_mapping = {\n \"numpy\": (\"http://docs.scipy.org/doc/numpy/\", None),\n \"python\": (\"https://docs.python.org/\", None),\n \"torch\": (\"https://pytorch.org/docs/master/\", None),\n}\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/docs/criterions.rst", "content": ".. role:: hidden\n :class: hidden-section\n\n.. _Criterions:\n\nCriterions\n==========\n\nCriterions compute the loss function given the model and batch, roughly::\n\n loss = criterion(model, batch)\n\n.. automodule:: fairseq.criterions\n :members:\n\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.criterions.FairseqCriterion\n :members:\n :undoc-members:\n\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.criterions.adaptive_loss.AdaptiveLoss\n :members:\n :undoc-members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.criterions.composite_loss.CompositeLoss\n :members:\n :undoc-members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.criterions.cross_entropy.CrossEntropyCriterion\n :members:\n :undoc-members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.criterions.label_smoothed_cross_entropy.LabelSmoothedCrossEntropyCriterion\n :members:\n :undoc-members:\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/docs/data.rst", "content": ".. role:: hidden\n :class: hidden-section\n\n.. module:: fairseq.data\n\nData Loading and Utilities\n==========================\n\n.. _datasets:\n\nDatasets\n--------\n\n**Datasets** define the data format and provide helpers for creating\nmini-batches.\n\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.data.FairseqDataset\n :members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.data.LanguagePairDataset\n :members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.data.MonolingualDataset\n :members:\n\n**Helper Datasets**\n\nThese datasets wrap other :class:`fairseq.data.FairseqDataset` instances and\nprovide additional functionality:\n\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.data.BacktranslationDataset\n :members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.data.ConcatDataset\n :members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.data.ResamplingDataset\n :members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.data.RoundRobinZipDatasets\n :members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.data.TransformEosDataset\n :members:\n\n\nDictionary\n----------\n\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.data.Dictionary\n :members:\n\n\nIterators\n---------\n\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.data.CountingIterator\n :members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.data.EpochBatchIterator\n :members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.data.GroupedIterator\n :members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.data.ShardedIterator\n :members:\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/docs/docutils.conf", "content": "[writers]\noption-limit=0\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/docs/getting_started.rst", "content": "Evaluating Pre-trained Models\n=============================\n\nFirst, download a pre-trained model along with its vocabularies:\n\n.. code-block:: console\n\n > curl https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt14.v2.en-fr.fconv-py.tar.bz2 | tar xvjf -\n\nThis model uses a `Byte Pair Encoding (BPE)\nvocabulary `__, so we'll have to apply\nthe encoding to the source text before it can be translated. This can be\ndone with the\n`apply\\_bpe.py `__\nscript using the ``wmt14.en-fr.fconv-cuda/bpecodes`` file. ``@@`` is\nused as a continuation marker and the original text can be easily\nrecovered with e.g. ``sed s/@@ //g`` or by passing the ``--remove-bpe``\nflag to :ref:`fairseq-generate`. Prior to BPE, input text needs to be tokenized\nusing ``tokenizer.perl`` from\n`mosesdecoder `__.\n\nLet's use :ref:`fairseq-interactive` to generate translations interactively.\nHere, we use a beam size of 5 and preprocess the input with the Moses\ntokenizer and the given Byte-Pair Encoding vocabulary. It will automatically\nremove the BPE continuation markers and detokenize the output.\n\n.. code-block:: console\n\n > MODEL_DIR=wmt14.en-fr.fconv-py\n > fairseq-interactive \\\n --path $MODEL_DIR/model.pt $MODEL_DIR \\\n --beam 5 --source-lang en --target-lang fr \\\n --tokenizer moses \\\n --bpe subword_nmt --bpe-codes $MODEL_DIR/bpecodes\n | loading model(s) from wmt14.en-fr.fconv-py/model.pt\n | [en] dictionary: 44206 types\n | [fr] dictionary: 44463 types\n | Type the input sentence and press return:\n Why is it rare to discover new marine mammal species?\n S-0 Why is it rare to discover new marine mam@@ mal species ?\n H-0 -0.0643349438905716 Pourquoi est-il rare de découvrir de nouvelles espèces de mammifères marins?\n P-0 -0.0763 -0.1849 -0.0956 -0.0946 -0.0735 -0.1150 -0.1301 -0.0042 -0.0321 -0.0171 -0.0052 -0.0062 -0.0015\n\nThis generation script produces three types of outputs: a line prefixed\nwith *O* is a copy of the original source sentence; *H* is the\nhypothesis along with an average log-likelihood; and *P* is the\npositional score per token position, including the\nend-of-sentence marker which is omitted from the text.\n\nSee the `README `__ for a\nfull list of pre-trained models available.\n\nTraining a New Model\n====================\n\nThe following tutorial is for machine translation. For an example of how\nto use Fairseq for other tasks, such as :ref:`language modeling`, please see the\n``examples/`` directory.\n\nData Pre-processing\n-------------------\n\nFairseq contains example pre-processing scripts for several translation\ndatasets: IWSLT 2014 (German-English), WMT 2014 (English-French) and WMT\n2014 (English-German). To pre-process and binarize the IWSLT dataset:\n\n.. code-block:: console\n\n > cd examples/translation/\n > bash prepare-iwslt14.sh\n > cd ../..\n > TEXT=examples/translation/iwslt14.tokenized.de-en\n > fairseq-preprocess --source-lang de --target-lang en \\\n --trainpref $TEXT/train --validpref $TEXT/valid --testpref $TEXT/test \\\n --destdir data-bin/iwslt14.tokenized.de-en\n\nThis will write binarized data that can be used for model training to\n``data-bin/iwslt14.tokenized.de-en``.\n\nTraining\n--------\n\nUse :ref:`fairseq-train` to train a new model. Here a few example settings that work\nwell for the IWSLT 2014 dataset:\n\n.. code-block:: console\n\n > mkdir -p checkpoints/fconv\n > CUDA_VISIBLE_DEVICES=0 fairseq-train data-bin/iwslt14.tokenized.de-en \\\n --lr 0.25 --clip-norm 0.1 --dropout 0.2 --max-tokens 4000 \\\n --arch fconv_iwslt_de_en --save-dir checkpoints/fconv\n\nBy default, :ref:`fairseq-train` will use all available GPUs on your machine. Use the\n``CUDA_VISIBLE_DEVICES`` environment variable to select specific GPUs and/or to\nchange the number of GPU devices that will be used.\n\nAlso note that the batch size is specified in terms of the maximum\nnumber of tokens per batch (``--max-tokens``). You may need to use a\nsmaller value depending on the available GPU memory on your system.\n\nGeneration\n----------\n\nOnce your model is trained, you can generate translations using\n:ref:`fairseq-generate` **(for binarized data)** or\n:ref:`fairseq-interactive` **(for raw text)**:\n\n.. code-block:: console\n\n > fairseq-generate data-bin/iwslt14.tokenized.de-en \\\n --path checkpoints/fconv/checkpoint_best.pt \\\n --batch-size 128 --beam 5\n | [de] dictionary: 35475 types\n | [en] dictionary: 24739 types\n | data-bin/iwslt14.tokenized.de-en test 6750 examples\n | model fconv\n | loaded checkpoint trainings/fconv/checkpoint_best.pt\n S-721 danke .\n T-721 thank you .\n ...\n\nTo generate translations with only a CPU, use the ``--cpu`` flag. BPE\ncontinuation markers can be removed with the ``--remove-bpe`` flag.\n\nAdvanced Training Options\n=========================\n\nLarge mini-batch training with delayed updates\n----------------------------------------------\n\nThe ``--update-freq`` option can be used to accumulate gradients from\nmultiple mini-batches and delay updating, creating a larger effective\nbatch size. Delayed updates can also improve training speed by reducing\ninter-GPU communication costs and by saving idle time caused by variance\nin workload across GPUs. See `Ott et al.\n(2018) `__ for more details.\n\nTo train on a single GPU with an effective batch size that is equivalent\nto training on 8 GPUs:\n\n.. code-block:: console\n\n > CUDA_VISIBLE_DEVICES=0 fairseq-train --update-freq 8 (...)\n\nTraining with half precision floating point (FP16)\n--------------------------------------------------\n\n.. note::\n\n FP16 training requires a Volta GPU and CUDA 9.1 or greater\n\nRecent GPUs enable efficient half precision floating point computation,\ne.g., using `Nvidia Tensor Cores\n`__.\nFairseq supports FP16 training with the ``--fp16`` flag:\n\n.. code-block:: console\n\n > fairseq-train --fp16 (...)\n\nLazily loading large training datasets\n--------------------------------------\n\nBy default fairseq loads the entire training set into system memory. For large\ndatasets, the ``--lazy-load`` option can be used to instead load batches on-demand.\nFor optimal performance, use the ``--num-workers`` option to control the number\nof background processes that will load batches.\n\nDistributed training\n--------------------\n\nDistributed training in fairseq is implemented on top of ``torch.distributed``.\nThe easiest way to launch jobs is with the `torch.distributed.launch\n`__ tool.\n\nFor example, to train a large English-German Transformer model on 2 nodes each\nwith 8 GPUs (in total 16 GPUs), run the following command on each node,\nreplacing ``node_rank=0`` with ``node_rank=1`` on the second node:\n\n.. code-block:: console\n\n > python -m torch.distributed.launch --nproc_per_node=8 \\\n --nnodes=2 --node_rank=0 --master_addr=\"192.168.1.1\" \\\n --master_port=1234 \\\n $(which fairseq-train) data-bin/wmt16_en_de_bpe32k \\\n --arch transformer_vaswani_wmt_en_de_big --share-all-embeddings \\\n --optimizer adam --adam-betas '(0.9, 0.98)' --clip-norm 0.0 \\\n --lr-scheduler inverse_sqrt --warmup-init-lr 1e-07 --warmup-updates 4000 \\\n --lr 0.0005 --min-lr 1e-09 \\\n --dropout 0.3 --weight-decay 0.0 --criterion label_smoothed_cross_entropy --label-smoothing 0.1 \\\n --max-tokens 3584 \\\n --fp16 --distributed-no-spawn \n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/docs/index.rst", "content": ".. fairseq documentation master file, created by\n sphinx-quickstart on Fri Aug 17 21:45:30 2018.\n You can adapt this file completely to your liking, but it should at least\n contain the root `toctree` directive.\n\n:github_url: https://github.com/pytorch/fairseq\n\n\nfairseq documentation\n=====================\n\nFairseq is a sequence modeling toolkit written in `PyTorch\n`_ that allows researchers and developers to\ntrain custom models for translation, summarization, language modeling and other\ntext generation tasks.\n\n.. toctree::\n :maxdepth: 1\n :caption: Getting Started\n\n getting_started\n command_line_tools\n\n.. toctree::\n :maxdepth: 1\n :caption: Extending Fairseq\n\n overview\n tutorial_simple_lstm\n tutorial_classifying_names\n\n.. toctree::\n :maxdepth: 2\n :caption: Library Reference\n\n tasks\n models\n criterions\n optim\n lr_scheduler\n data\n modules\n\n\nIndices and tables\n==================\n\n* :ref:`genindex`\n* :ref:`search`\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/docs/lr_scheduler.rst", "content": ".. role:: hidden\n :class: hidden-section\n\n.. _Learning Rate Schedulers:\n\nLearning Rate Schedulers\n========================\n\nLearning Rate Schedulers update the learning rate over the course of training.\nLearning rates can be updated after each update via :func:`step_update` or at\nepoch boundaries via :func:`step`.\n\n.. automodule:: fairseq.optim.lr_scheduler\n :members:\n\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.optim.lr_scheduler.FairseqLRScheduler\n :members:\n :undoc-members:\n\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.optim.lr_scheduler.cosine_lr_scheduler.CosineSchedule\n :members:\n :undoc-members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.optim.lr_scheduler.fixed_schedule.FixedSchedule\n :members:\n :undoc-members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.optim.lr_scheduler.inverse_square_root_schedule.InverseSquareRootSchedule\n :members:\n :undoc-members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.optim.lr_scheduler.reduce_lr_on_plateau.ReduceLROnPlateau\n :members:\n :undoc-members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.optim.lr_scheduler.triangular_lr_scheduler.TriangularSchedule\n :members:\n :undoc-members:\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/docs/make.bat", "content": "@ECHO OFF\r\n\r\npushd %~dp0\r\n\r\nREM Command file for Sphinx documentation\r\n\r\nif \"%SPHINXBUILD%\" == \"\" (\r\n\tset SPHINXBUILD=python -msphinx\r\n)\r\nset SOURCEDIR=.\r\nset BUILDDIR=_build\r\nset SPHINXPROJ=fairseq\r\n\r\nif \"%1\" == \"\" goto help\r\n\r\n%SPHINXBUILD% >NUL 2>NUL\r\nif errorlevel 9009 (\r\n\techo.\r\n\techo.The Sphinx module was not found. Make sure you have Sphinx installed,\r\n\techo.then set the SPHINXBUILD environment variable to point to the full\r\n\techo.path of the 'sphinx-build' executable. Alternatively you may add the\r\n\techo.Sphinx directory to PATH.\r\n\techo.\r\n\techo.If you don't have Sphinx installed, grab it from\r\n\techo.http://sphinx-doc.org/\r\n\texit /b 1\r\n)\r\n\r\n%SPHINXBUILD% -M %1 %SOURCEDIR% %BUILDDIR% %SPHINXOPTS%\r\ngoto end\r\n\r\n:help\r\n%SPHINXBUILD% -M help %SOURCEDIR% %BUILDDIR% %SPHINXOPTS%\r\n\r\n:end\r\npopd\r\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/docs/models.rst", "content": ".. role:: hidden\n :class: hidden-section\n\n.. module:: fairseq.models\n\n.. _Models:\n\nModels\n======\n\nA Model defines the neural network's ``forward()`` method and encapsulates all\nof the learnable parameters in the network. Each model also provides a set of\nnamed *architectures* that define the precise network configuration (e.g.,\nembedding dimension, number of layers, etc.).\n\nBoth the model type and architecture are selected via the ``--arch``\ncommand-line argument. Once selected, a model may expose additional command-line\narguments for further configuration.\n\n.. note::\n\n All fairseq Models extend :class:`BaseFairseqModel`, which in turn extends\n :class:`torch.nn.Module`. Thus any fairseq Model can be used as a\n stand-alone Module in other PyTorch code.\n\n\nConvolutional Neural Networks (CNN)\n-----------------------------------\n\n.. module:: fairseq.models.fconv\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.models.fconv.FConvModel\n :members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.models.fconv.FConvEncoder\n :members:\n :undoc-members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.models.fconv.FConvDecoder\n :members:\n\n\nLong Short-Term Memory (LSTM) networks\n--------------------------------------\n\n.. module:: fairseq.models.lstm\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.models.lstm.LSTMModel\n :members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.models.lstm.LSTMEncoder\n :members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.models.lstm.LSTMDecoder\n :members:\n\n\nTransformer (self-attention) networks\n-------------------------------------\n\n.. module:: fairseq.models.transformer\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.models.transformer.TransformerModel\n :members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.models.transformer.TransformerEncoder\n :members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.models.transformer.TransformerEncoderLayer\n :members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.models.transformer.TransformerDecoder\n :members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.models.transformer.TransformerDecoderLayer\n :members:\n\n\nAdding new models\n-----------------\n\n.. currentmodule:: fairseq.models\n.. autofunction:: fairseq.models.register_model\n.. autofunction:: fairseq.models.register_model_architecture\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.models.BaseFairseqModel\n :members:\n :undoc-members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.models.FairseqEncoderDecoderModel\n :members:\n :undoc-members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.models.FairseqEncoderModel\n :members:\n :undoc-members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.models.FairseqLanguageModel\n :members:\n :undoc-members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.models.FairseqMultiModel\n :members:\n :undoc-members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.models.FairseqEncoder\n :members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.models.CompositeEncoder\n :members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.models.FairseqDecoder\n :members:\n\n\n.. _Incremental decoding:\n\nIncremental decoding\n--------------------\n\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.models.FairseqIncrementalDecoder\n :members:\n :undoc-members:\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/docs/modules.rst", "content": "Modules\n=======\n\nFairseq provides several stand-alone :class:`torch.nn.Module` classes that may\nbe helpful when implementing a new :class:`~fairseq.models.BaseFairseqModel`.\n\n.. automodule:: fairseq.modules\n :members:\n :undoc-members:\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/docs/optim.rst", "content": ".. role:: hidden\n :class: hidden-section\n\n.. _optimizers:\n\nOptimizers\n==========\n\nOptimizers update the Model parameters based on the gradients.\n\n.. automodule:: fairseq.optim\n :members:\n\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.optim.FairseqOptimizer\n :members:\n :undoc-members:\n\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.optim.adadelta.Adadelta\n :members:\n :undoc-members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.optim.adagrad.Adagrad\n :members:\n :undoc-members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.optim.adafactor.FairseqAdafactor\n :members:\n :undoc-members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.optim.adam.FairseqAdam\n :members:\n :undoc-members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.optim.fp16_optimizer.FP16Optimizer\n :members:\n :undoc-members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.optim.nag.FairseqNAG\n :members:\n :undoc-members:\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.optim.sgd.SGD\n :members:\n :undoc-members:\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/docs/overview.rst", "content": "Overview\n========\n\nFairseq can be extended through user-supplied `plug-ins\n`_. We support five kinds of\nplug-ins:\n\n- :ref:`Models` define the neural network architecture and encapsulate all of the\n learnable parameters.\n- :ref:`Criterions` compute the loss function given the model outputs and targets.\n- :ref:`Tasks` store dictionaries and provide helpers for loading/iterating over\n Datasets, initializing the Model/Criterion and calculating the loss.\n- :ref:`Optimizers` update the Model parameters based on the gradients.\n- :ref:`Learning Rate Schedulers` update the learning rate over the course of\n training.\n\n**Training Flow**\n\nGiven a ``model``, ``criterion``, ``task``, ``optimizer`` and ``lr_scheduler``,\nfairseq implements the following high-level training flow::\n\n for epoch in range(num_epochs):\n itr = task.get_batch_iterator(task.dataset('train'))\n for num_updates, batch in enumerate(itr):\n task.train_step(batch, model, criterion, optimizer)\n average_and_clip_gradients()\n optimizer.step()\n lr_scheduler.step_update(num_updates)\n lr_scheduler.step(epoch)\n\nwhere the default implementation for ``task.train_step`` is roughly::\n\n def train_step(self, batch, model, criterion, optimizer):\n loss = criterion(model, batch)\n optimizer.backward(loss)\n return loss\n\n**Registering new plug-ins**\n\nNew plug-ins are *registered* through a set of ``@register`` function\ndecorators, for example::\n\n @register_model('my_lstm')\n class MyLSTM(FairseqEncoderDecoderModel):\n (...)\n\nOnce registered, new plug-ins can be used with the existing :ref:`Command-line\nTools`. See the Tutorial sections for more detailed walkthroughs of how to add\nnew plug-ins.\n\n**Loading plug-ins from another directory**\n\nNew plug-ins can be defined in a custom module stored in the user system. In\norder to import the module, and make the plugin available to *fairseq*, the\ncommand line supports the ``--user-dir`` flag that can be used to specify a\ncustom location for additional modules to load into *fairseq*.\n\nFor example, assuming this directory tree::\n\n /home/user/my-module/\n └── __init__.py\n \nwith ``__init__.py``::\n\n from fairseq.models import register_model_architecture\n from fairseq.models.transformer import transformer_vaswani_wmt_en_de_big\n\n @register_model_architecture('transformer', 'my_transformer')\n def transformer_mmt_big(args):\n transformer_vaswani_wmt_en_de_big(args)\n\nit is possible to invoke the :ref:`fairseq-train` script with the new architecture with::\n\n fairseq-train ... --user-dir /home/user/my-module -a my_transformer --task translation\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/docs/requirements.txt", "content": "sphinx<2.0\nsphinx-argparse\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/docs/tasks.rst", "content": ".. role:: hidden\n :class: hidden-section\n\n.. module:: fairseq.tasks\n\n.. _Tasks:\n\nTasks\n=====\n\nTasks store dictionaries and provide helpers for loading/iterating over\nDatasets, initializing the Model/Criterion and calculating the loss.\n\nTasks can be selected via the ``--task`` command-line argument. Once selected, a\ntask may expose additional command-line arguments for further configuration.\n\nExample usage::\n\n # setup the task (e.g., load dictionaries)\n task = fairseq.tasks.setup_task(args)\n\n # build model and criterion\n model = task.build_model(args)\n criterion = task.build_criterion(args)\n\n # load datasets\n task.load_dataset('train')\n task.load_dataset('valid')\n\n # iterate over mini-batches of data\n batch_itr = task.get_batch_iterator(\n task.dataset('train'), max_tokens=4096,\n )\n for batch in batch_itr:\n # compute the loss\n loss, sample_size, logging_output = task.get_loss(\n model, criterion, batch,\n )\n loss.backward()\n\n\nTranslation\n-----------\n\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.tasks.translation.TranslationTask\n\n.. _language modeling:\n\nLanguage Modeling\n-----------------\n\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.tasks.language_modeling.LanguageModelingTask\n\n\nAdding new tasks\n----------------\n\n.. autofunction:: fairseq.tasks.register_task\n.. autoclass:: fairseq.tasks.FairseqTask\n :members:\n :undoc-members:\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/docs/tutorial_classifying_names.rst", "content": "Tutorial: Classifying Names with a Character-Level RNN\n======================================================\n\nIn this tutorial we will extend fairseq to support *classification* tasks. In\nparticular we will re-implement the PyTorch tutorial for `Classifying Names with\na Character-Level RNN `_\nin fairseq. It is recommended to quickly skim that tutorial before beginning\nthis one.\n\nThis tutorial covers:\n\n1. **Preprocessing the data** to create dictionaries.\n2. **Registering a new Model** that encodes an input sentence with a simple RNN\n and predicts the output label.\n3. **Registering a new Task** that loads our dictionaries and dataset.\n4. **Training the Model** using the existing command-line tools.\n5. **Writing an evaluation script** that imports fairseq and allows us to\n interactively evaluate our model on new inputs.\n\n\n1. Preprocessing the data\n-------------------------\n\nThe original tutorial provides raw data, but we'll work with a modified version\nof the data that is already tokenized into characters and split into separate\ntrain, valid and test sets.\n\nDownload and extract the data from here:\n`tutorial_names.tar.gz `_\n\nOnce extracted, let's preprocess the data using the :ref:`fairseq-preprocess`\ncommand-line tool to create the dictionaries. While this tool is primarily\nintended for sequence-to-sequence problems, we're able to reuse it here by\ntreating the label as a \"target\" sequence of length 1. We'll also output the\npreprocessed files in \"raw\" format using the ``--dataset-impl`` option to\nenhance readability:\n\n.. code-block:: console\n\n > fairseq-preprocess \\\n --trainpref names/train --validpref names/valid --testpref names/test \\\n --source-lang input --target-lang label \\\n --destdir names-bin --dataset-impl raw\n\nAfter running the above command you should see a new directory,\n:file:`names-bin/`, containing the dictionaries for *inputs* and *labels*.\n\n\n2. Registering a new Model\n--------------------------\n\nNext we'll register a new model in fairseq that will encode an input sentence\nwith a simple RNN and predict the output label. Compared to the original PyTorch\ntutorial, our version will also work with batches of data and GPU Tensors.\n\nFirst let's copy the simple RNN module implemented in the `PyTorch tutorial\n`_.\nCreate a new file named :file:`fairseq/models/rnn_classifier.py` with the\nfollowing contents::\n\n import torch\n import torch.nn as nn\n\n class RNN(nn.Module):\n\n def __init__(self, input_size, hidden_size, output_size):\n super(RNN, self).__init__()\n\n self.hidden_size = hidden_size\n\n self.i2h = nn.Linear(input_size + hidden_size, hidden_size)\n self.i2o = nn.Linear(input_size + hidden_size, output_size)\n self.softmax = nn.LogSoftmax(dim=1)\n\n def forward(self, input, hidden):\n combined = torch.cat((input, hidden), 1)\n hidden = self.i2h(combined)\n output = self.i2o(combined)\n output = self.softmax(output)\n return output, hidden\n\n def initHidden(self):\n return torch.zeros(1, self.hidden_size)\n\nWe must also *register* this model with fairseq using the\n:func:`~fairseq.models.register_model` function decorator. Once the model is\nregistered we'll be able to use it with the existing :ref:`Command-line Tools`.\n\nAll registered models must implement the :class:`~fairseq.models.BaseFairseqModel`\ninterface, so we'll create a small wrapper class in the same file and register\nit in fairseq with the name ``'rnn_classifier'``::\n\n from fairseq.models import BaseFairseqModel, register_model\n\n # Note: the register_model \"decorator\" should immediately precede the\n # definition of the Model class.\n\n @register_model('rnn_classifier')\n class FairseqRNNClassifier(BaseFairseqModel):\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n # Models can override this method to add new command-line arguments.\n # Here we'll add a new command-line argument to configure the\n # dimensionality of the hidden state.\n parser.add_argument(\n '--hidden-dim', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='dimensionality of the hidden state',\n )\n\n @classmethod\n def build_model(cls, args, task):\n # Fairseq initializes models by calling the ``build_model()``\n # function. This provides more flexibility, since the returned model\n # instance can be of a different type than the one that was called.\n # In this case we'll just return a FairseqRNNClassifier instance.\n\n # Initialize our RNN module\n rnn = RNN(\n # We'll define the Task in the next section, but for now just\n # notice that the task holds the dictionaries for the \"source\"\n # (i.e., the input sentence) and \"target\" (i.e., the label).\n input_size=len(task.source_dictionary),\n hidden_size=args.hidden_dim,\n output_size=len(task.target_dictionary),\n )\n\n # Return the wrapped version of the module\n return FairseqRNNClassifier(\n rnn=rnn,\n input_vocab=task.source_dictionary,\n )\n\n def __init__(self, rnn, input_vocab):\n super(FairseqRNNClassifier, self).__init__()\n\n self.rnn = rnn\n self.input_vocab = input_vocab\n\n # The RNN module in the tutorial expects one-hot inputs, so we can\n # precompute the identity matrix to help convert from indices to\n # one-hot vectors. We register it as a buffer so that it is moved to\n # the GPU when ``cuda()`` is called.\n self.register_buffer('one_hot_inputs', torch.eye(len(input_vocab)))\n\n def forward(self, src_tokens, src_lengths):\n # The inputs to the ``forward()`` function are determined by the\n # Task, and in particular the ``'net_input'`` key in each\n # mini-batch. We'll define the Task in the next section, but for\n # now just know that *src_tokens* has shape `(batch, src_len)` and\n # *src_lengths* has shape `(batch)`.\n bsz, max_src_len = src_tokens.size()\n\n # Initialize the RNN hidden state. Compared to the original PyTorch\n # tutorial we'll also handle batched inputs and work on the GPU.\n hidden = self.rnn.initHidden()\n hidden = hidden.repeat(bsz, 1) # expand for batched inputs\n hidden = hidden.to(src_tokens.device) # move to GPU\n\n for i in range(max_src_len):\n # WARNING: The inputs have padding, so we should mask those\n # elements here so that padding doesn't affect the results.\n # This is left as an exercise for the reader. The padding symbol\n # is given by ``self.input_vocab.pad()`` and the unpadded length\n # of each input is given by *src_lengths*.\n\n # One-hot encode a batch of input characters.\n input = self.one_hot_inputs[src_tokens[:, i].long()]\n\n # Feed the input to our RNN.\n output, hidden = self.rnn(input, hidden)\n\n # Return the final output state for making a prediction\n return output\n\nFinally let's define a *named architecture* with the configuration for our\nmodel. This is done with the :func:`~fairseq.models.register_model_architecture`\nfunction decorator. Thereafter this named architecture can be used with the\n``--arch`` command-line argument, e.g., ``--arch pytorch_tutorial_rnn``::\n\n from fairseq.models import register_model_architecture\n\n # The first argument to ``register_model_architecture()`` should be the name\n # of the model we registered above (i.e., 'rnn_classifier'). The function we\n # register here should take a single argument *args* and modify it in-place\n # to match the desired architecture.\n\n @register_model_architecture('rnn_classifier', 'pytorch_tutorial_rnn')\n def pytorch_tutorial_rnn(args):\n # We use ``getattr()`` to prioritize arguments that are explicitly given\n # on the command-line, so that the defaults defined below are only used\n # when no other value has been specified.\n args.hidden_dim = getattr(args, 'hidden_dim', 128)\n\n\n3. Registering a new Task\n-------------------------\n\nNow we'll register a new :class:`~fairseq.tasks.FairseqTask` that will load our\ndictionaries and dataset. Tasks can also control how the data is batched into\nmini-batches, but in this tutorial we'll reuse the batching provided by\n:class:`fairseq.data.LanguagePairDataset`.\n\nCreate a new file named :file:`fairseq/tasks/simple_classification.py` with the\nfollowing contents::\n\n import os\n import torch\n\n from fairseq.data import Dictionary, LanguagePairDataset\n from fairseq.tasks import FairseqTask, register_task\n\n\n @register_task('simple_classification')\n class SimpleClassificationTask(FairseqTask):\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n # Add some command-line arguments for specifying where the data is\n # located and the maximum supported input length.\n parser.add_argument('data', metavar='FILE',\n help='file prefix for data')\n parser.add_argument('--max-positions', default=1024, type=int,\n help='max input length')\n\n @classmethod\n def setup_task(cls, args, **kwargs):\n # Here we can perform any setup required for the task. This may include\n # loading Dictionaries, initializing shared Embedding layers, etc.\n # In this case we'll just load the Dictionaries.\n input_vocab = Dictionary.load(os.path.join(args.data, 'dict.input.txt'))\n label_vocab = Dictionary.load(os.path.join(args.data, 'dict.label.txt'))\n print('| [input] dictionary: {} types'.format(len(input_vocab)))\n print('| [label] dictionary: {} types'.format(len(label_vocab)))\n\n return SimpleClassificationTask(args, input_vocab, label_vocab)\n\n def __init__(self, args, input_vocab, label_vocab):\n super().__init__(args)\n self.input_vocab = input_vocab\n self.label_vocab = label_vocab\n\n def load_dataset(self, split, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Load a given dataset split (e.g., train, valid, test).\"\"\"\n\n prefix = os.path.join(self.args.data, '{}.input-label'.format(split))\n\n # Read input sentences.\n sentences, lengths = [], []\n with open(prefix + '.input', encoding='utf-8') as file:\n for line in file:\n sentence = line.strip()\n\n # Tokenize the sentence, splitting on spaces\n tokens = self.input_vocab.encode_line(\n sentence, add_if_not_exist=False,\n )\n\n sentences.append(tokens)\n lengths.append(tokens.numel())\n\n # Read labels.\n labels = []\n with open(prefix + '.label', encoding='utf-8') as file:\n for line in file:\n label = line.strip()\n labels.append(\n # Convert label to a numeric ID.\n torch.LongTensor([self.label_vocab.add_symbol(label)])\n )\n\n assert len(sentences) == len(labels)\n print('| {} {} {} examples'.format(self.args.data, split, len(sentences)))\n\n # We reuse LanguagePairDataset since classification can be modeled as a\n # sequence-to-sequence task where the target sequence has length 1.\n self.datasets[split] = LanguagePairDataset(\n src=sentences,\n src_sizes=lengths,\n src_dict=self.input_vocab,\n tgt=labels,\n tgt_sizes=torch.ones(len(labels)), # targets have length 1\n tgt_dict=self.label_vocab,\n left_pad_source=False,\n max_source_positions=self.args.max_positions,\n max_target_positions=1,\n # Since our target is a single class label, there's no need for\n # teacher forcing. If we set this to ``True`` then our Model's\n # ``forward()`` method would receive an additional argument called\n # *prev_output_tokens* that would contain a shifted version of the\n # target sequence.\n input_feeding=False,\n )\n\n def max_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Return the max input length allowed by the task.\"\"\"\n # The source should be less than *args.max_positions* and the \"target\"\n # has max length 1.\n return (self.args.max_positions, 1)\n\n @property\n def source_dictionary(self):\n \"\"\"Return the source :class:`~fairseq.data.Dictionary`.\"\"\"\n return self.input_vocab\n\n @property\n def target_dictionary(self):\n \"\"\"Return the target :class:`~fairseq.data.Dictionary`.\"\"\"\n return self.label_vocab\n\n # We could override this method if we wanted more control over how batches\n # are constructed, but it's not necessary for this tutorial since we can\n # reuse the batching provided by LanguagePairDataset.\n #\n # def get_batch_iterator(\n # self, dataset, max_tokens=None, max_sentences=None, max_positions=None,\n # ignore_invalid_inputs=False, required_batch_size_multiple=1,\n # seed=1, num_shards=1, shard_id=0,\n # ):\n # (...)\n\n\n4. Training the Model\n---------------------\n\nNow we're ready to train the model. We can use the existing :ref:`fairseq-train`\ncommand-line tool for this, making sure to specify our new Task (``--task\nsimple_classification``) and Model architecture (``--arch\npytorch_tutorial_rnn``):\n\n.. note::\n\n You can also configure the dimensionality of the hidden state by passing the\n ``--hidden-dim`` argument to :ref:`fairseq-train`.\n\n.. code-block:: console\n\n > fairseq-train names-bin \\\n --task simple_classification \\\n --arch pytorch_tutorial_rnn \\\n --optimizer adam --lr 0.001 --lr-shrink 0.5 \\\n --max-tokens 1000\n (...)\n | epoch 027 | loss 1.200 | ppl 2.30 | wps 15728 | ups 119.4 | wpb 116 | bsz 116 | num_updates 3726 | lr 1.5625e-05 | gnorm 1.290 | clip 0% | oom 0 | wall 32 | train_wall 21\n | epoch 027 | valid on 'valid' subset | valid_loss 1.41304 | valid_ppl 2.66 | num_updates 3726 | best 1.41208\n | done training in 31.6 seconds\n\nThe model files should appear in the :file:`checkpoints/` directory.\n\n\n5. Writing an evaluation script\n-------------------------------\n\nFinally we can write a short script to evaluate our model on new inputs. Create\na new file named :file:`eval_classifier.py` with the following contents::\n\n from fairseq import checkpoint_utils, data, options, tasks\n\n # Parse command-line arguments for generation\n parser = options.get_generation_parser(default_task='simple_classification')\n args = options.parse_args_and_arch(parser)\n\n # Setup task\n task = tasks.setup_task(args)\n\n # Load model\n print('| loading model from {}'.format(args.path))\n models, _model_args = checkpoint_utils.load_model_ensemble([args.path], task=task)\n model = models[0]\n\n while True:\n sentence = input('\\nInput: ')\n\n # Tokenize into characters\n chars = ' '.join(list(sentence.strip()))\n tokens = task.source_dictionary.encode_line(\n chars, add_if_not_exist=False,\n )\n\n # Build mini-batch to feed to the model\n batch = data.language_pair_dataset.collate(\n samples=[{'id': -1, 'source': tokens}], # bsz = 1\n pad_idx=task.source_dictionary.pad(),\n eos_idx=task.source_dictionary.eos(),\n left_pad_source=False,\n input_feeding=False,\n )\n\n # Feed batch to the model and get predictions\n preds = model(**batch['net_input'])\n\n # Print top 3 predictions and their log-probabilities\n top_scores, top_labels = preds[0].topk(k=3)\n for score, label_idx in zip(top_scores, top_labels):\n label_name = task.target_dictionary.string([label_idx])\n print('({:.2f})\\t{}'.format(score, label_name))\n\nNow we can evaluate our model interactively. Note that we have included the\noriginal data path (:file:`names-bin/`) so that the dictionaries can be loaded:\n\n.. code-block:: console\n\n > python eval_classifier.py names-bin --path checkpoints/checkpoint_best.pt\n | [input] dictionary: 64 types\n | [label] dictionary: 24 types\n | loading model from checkpoints/checkpoint_best.pt\n\n Input: Satoshi\n (-0.61) Japanese\n (-1.20) Arabic\n (-2.86) Italian\n\n Input: Sinbad\n (-0.30) Arabic\n (-1.76) English\n (-4.08) Russian\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/docs/tutorial_simple_lstm.rst", "content": "Tutorial: Simple LSTM\n=====================\n\nIn this tutorial we will extend fairseq by adding a new\n:class:`~fairseq.models.FairseqEncoderDecoderModel` that encodes a source\nsentence with an LSTM and then passes the final hidden state to a second LSTM\nthat decodes the target sentence (without attention).\n\nThis tutorial covers:\n\n1. **Writing an Encoder and Decoder** to encode/decode the source/target\n sentence, respectively.\n2. **Registering a new Model** so that it can be used with the existing\n :ref:`Command-line tools`.\n3. **Training the Model** using the existing command-line tools.\n4. **Making generation faster** by modifying the Decoder to use\n :ref:`Incremental decoding`.\n\n\n1. Building an Encoder and Decoder\n----------------------------------\n\nIn this section we'll define a simple LSTM Encoder and Decoder. All Encoders\nshould implement the :class:`~fairseq.models.FairseqEncoder` interface and\nDecoders should implement the :class:`~fairseq.models.FairseqDecoder` interface.\nThese interfaces themselves extend :class:`torch.nn.Module`, so FairseqEncoders\nand FairseqDecoders can be written and used in the same ways as ordinary PyTorch\nModules.\n\n\nEncoder\n~~~~~~~\n\nOur Encoder will embed the tokens in the source sentence, feed them to a\n:class:`torch.nn.LSTM` and return the final hidden state. To create our encoder\nsave the following in a new file named :file:`fairseq/models/simple_lstm.py`::\n\n import torch.nn as nn\n from fairseq import utils\n from fairseq.models import FairseqEncoder\n\n class SimpleLSTMEncoder(FairseqEncoder):\n\n def __init__(\n self, args, dictionary, embed_dim=128, hidden_dim=128, dropout=0.1,\n ):\n super().__init__(dictionary)\n self.args = args\n\n # Our encoder will embed the inputs before feeding them to the LSTM.\n self.embed_tokens = nn.Embedding(\n num_embeddings=len(dictionary),\n embedding_dim=embed_dim,\n padding_idx=dictionary.pad(),\n )\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(p=dropout)\n\n # We'll use a single-layer, unidirectional LSTM for simplicity.\n self.lstm = nn.LSTM(\n input_size=embed_dim,\n hidden_size=hidden_dim,\n num_layers=1,\n bidirectional=False,\n )\n\n def forward(self, src_tokens, src_lengths):\n # The inputs to the ``forward()`` function are determined by the\n # Task, and in particular the ``'net_input'`` key in each\n # mini-batch. We discuss Tasks in the next tutorial, but for now just\n # know that *src_tokens* has shape `(batch, src_len)` and *src_lengths*\n # has shape `(batch)`.\n\n # Note that the source is typically padded on the left. This can be\n # configured by adding the `--left-pad-source \"False\"` command-line\n # argument, but here we'll make the Encoder handle either kind of\n # padding by converting everything to be right-padded.\n if self.args.left_pad_source:\n # Convert left-padding to right-padding.\n src_tokens = utils.convert_padding_direction(\n src_tokens,\n padding_idx=self.dictionary.pad(),\n left_to_right=True\n )\n\n # Embed the source.\n x = self.embed_tokens(src_tokens)\n\n # Apply dropout.\n x = self.dropout(x)\n\n # Pack the sequence into a PackedSequence object to feed to the LSTM.\n x = nn.utils.rnn.pack_padded_sequence(x, src_lengths, batch_first=True)\n\n # Get the output from the LSTM.\n _outputs, (final_hidden, _final_cell) = self.lstm(x)\n\n # Return the Encoder's output. This can be any object and will be\n # passed directly to the Decoder.\n return {\n # this will have shape `(bsz, hidden_dim)`\n 'final_hidden': final_hidden.squeeze(0),\n }\n\n # Encoders are required to implement this method so that we can rearrange\n # the order of the batch elements during inference (e.g., beam search).\n def reorder_encoder_out(self, encoder_out, new_order):\n \"\"\"\n Reorder encoder output according to `new_order`.\n\n Args:\n encoder_out: output from the ``forward()`` method\n new_order (LongTensor): desired order\n\n Returns:\n `encoder_out` rearranged according to `new_order`\n \"\"\"\n final_hidden = encoder_out['final_hidden']\n return {\n 'final_hidden': final_hidden.index_select(0, new_order),\n }\n\n\nDecoder\n~~~~~~~\n\nOur Decoder will predict the next word, conditioned on the Encoder's final\nhidden state and an embedded representation of the previous target word -- which\nis sometimes called *teacher forcing*. More specifically, we'll use a\n:class:`torch.nn.LSTM` to produce a sequence of hidden states that we'll project\nto the size of the output vocabulary to predict each target word.\n\n::\n\n import torch\n from fairseq.models import FairseqDecoder\n\n class SimpleLSTMDecoder(FairseqDecoder):\n\n def __init__(\n self, dictionary, encoder_hidden_dim=128, embed_dim=128, hidden_dim=128,\n dropout=0.1,\n ):\n super().__init__(dictionary)\n\n # Our decoder will embed the inputs before feeding them to the LSTM.\n self.embed_tokens = nn.Embedding(\n num_embeddings=len(dictionary),\n embedding_dim=embed_dim,\n padding_idx=dictionary.pad(),\n )\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(p=dropout)\n\n # We'll use a single-layer, unidirectional LSTM for simplicity.\n self.lstm = nn.LSTM(\n # For the first layer we'll concatenate the Encoder's final hidden\n # state with the embedded target tokens.\n input_size=encoder_hidden_dim + embed_dim,\n hidden_size=hidden_dim,\n num_layers=1,\n bidirectional=False,\n )\n\n # Define the output projection.\n self.output_projection = nn.Linear(hidden_dim, len(dictionary))\n\n # During training Decoders are expected to take the entire target sequence\n # (shifted right by one position) and produce logits over the vocabulary.\n # The *prev_output_tokens* tensor begins with the end-of-sentence symbol,\n # ``dictionary.eos()``, followed by the target sequence.\n def forward(self, prev_output_tokens, encoder_out):\n \"\"\"\n Args:\n prev_output_tokens (LongTensor): previous decoder outputs of shape\n `(batch, tgt_len)`, for teacher forcing\n encoder_out (Tensor, optional): output from the encoder, used for\n encoder-side attention\n\n Returns:\n tuple:\n - the last decoder layer's output of shape\n `(batch, tgt_len, vocab)`\n - the last decoder layer's attention weights of shape\n `(batch, tgt_len, src_len)`\n \"\"\"\n bsz, tgt_len = prev_output_tokens.size()\n\n # Extract the final hidden state from the Encoder.\n final_encoder_hidden = encoder_out['final_hidden']\n\n # Embed the target sequence, which has been shifted right by one\n # position and now starts with the end-of-sentence symbol.\n x = self.embed_tokens(prev_output_tokens)\n\n # Apply dropout.\n x = self.dropout(x)\n\n # Concatenate the Encoder's final hidden state to *every* embedded\n # target token.\n x = torch.cat(\n [x, final_encoder_hidden.unsqueeze(1).expand(bsz, tgt_len, -1)],\n dim=2,\n )\n\n # Using PackedSequence objects in the Decoder is harder than in the\n # Encoder, since the targets are not sorted in descending length order,\n # which is a requirement of ``pack_padded_sequence()``. Instead we'll\n # feed nn.LSTM directly.\n initial_state = (\n final_encoder_hidden.unsqueeze(0), # hidden\n torch.zeros_like(final_encoder_hidden).unsqueeze(0), # cell\n )\n output, _ = self.lstm(\n x.transpose(0, 1), # convert to shape `(tgt_len, bsz, dim)`\n initial_state,\n )\n x = output.transpose(0, 1) # convert to shape `(bsz, tgt_len, hidden)`\n\n # Project the outputs to the size of the vocabulary.\n x = self.output_projection(x)\n\n # Return the logits and ``None`` for the attention weights\n return x, None\n\n\n2. Registering the Model\n------------------------\n\nNow that we've defined our Encoder and Decoder we must *register* our model with\nfairseq using the :func:`~fairseq.models.register_model` function decorator.\nOnce the model is registered we'll be able to use it with the existing\n:ref:`Command-line Tools`.\n\nAll registered models must implement the\n:class:`~fairseq.models.BaseFairseqModel` interface. For sequence-to-sequence\nmodels (i.e., any model with a single Encoder and Decoder), we can instead\nimplement the :class:`~fairseq.models.FairseqEncoderDecoderModel` interface.\n\nCreate a small wrapper class in the same file and register it in fairseq with\nthe name ``'simple_lstm'``::\n\n from fairseq.models import FairseqEncoderDecoderModel, register_model\n\n # Note: the register_model \"decorator\" should immediately precede the\n # definition of the Model class.\n\n @register_model('simple_lstm')\n class SimpleLSTMModel(FairseqEncoderDecoderModel):\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n # Models can override this method to add new command-line arguments.\n # Here we'll add some new command-line arguments to configure dropout\n # and the dimensionality of the embeddings and hidden states.\n parser.add_argument(\n '--encoder-embed-dim', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='dimensionality of the encoder embeddings',\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n '--encoder-hidden-dim', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='dimensionality of the encoder hidden state',\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n '--encoder-dropout', type=float, default=0.1,\n help='encoder dropout probability',\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n '--decoder-embed-dim', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='dimensionality of the decoder embeddings',\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n '--decoder-hidden-dim', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='dimensionality of the decoder hidden state',\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n '--decoder-dropout', type=float, default=0.1,\n help='decoder dropout probability',\n )\n\n @classmethod\n def build_model(cls, args, task):\n # Fairseq initializes models by calling the ``build_model()``\n # function. This provides more flexibility, since the returned model\n # instance can be of a different type than the one that was called.\n # In this case we'll just return a SimpleLSTMModel instance.\n\n # Initialize our Encoder and Decoder.\n encoder = SimpleLSTMEncoder(\n args=args,\n dictionary=task.source_dictionary,\n embed_dim=args.encoder_embed_dim,\n hidden_dim=args.encoder_hidden_dim,\n dropout=args.encoder_dropout,\n )\n decoder = SimpleLSTMDecoder(\n dictionary=task.target_dictionary,\n encoder_hidden_dim=args.encoder_hidden_dim,\n embed_dim=args.decoder_embed_dim,\n hidden_dim=args.decoder_hidden_dim,\n dropout=args.decoder_dropout,\n )\n model = SimpleLSTMModel(encoder, decoder)\n\n # Print the model architecture.\n print(model)\n\n return model\n\n # We could override the ``forward()`` if we wanted more control over how\n # the encoder and decoder interact, but it's not necessary for this\n # tutorial since we can inherit the default implementation provided by\n # the FairseqEncoderDecoderModel base class, which looks like:\n #\n # def forward(self, src_tokens, src_lengths, prev_output_tokens):\n # encoder_out = self.encoder(src_tokens, src_lengths)\n # decoder_out = self.decoder(prev_output_tokens, encoder_out)\n # return decoder_out\n\nFinally let's define a *named architecture* with the configuration for our\nmodel. This is done with the :func:`~fairseq.models.register_model_architecture`\nfunction decorator. Thereafter this named architecture can be used with the\n``--arch`` command-line argument, e.g., ``--arch tutorial_simple_lstm``::\n\n from fairseq.models import register_model_architecture\n\n # The first argument to ``register_model_architecture()`` should be the name\n # of the model we registered above (i.e., 'simple_lstm'). The function we\n # register here should take a single argument *args* and modify it in-place\n # to match the desired architecture.\n\n @register_model_architecture('simple_lstm', 'tutorial_simple_lstm')\n def tutorial_simple_lstm(args):\n # We use ``getattr()`` to prioritize arguments that are explicitly given\n # on the command-line, so that the defaults defined below are only used\n # when no other value has been specified.\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, 'encoder_embed_dim', 256)\n args.encoder_hidden_dim = getattr(args, 'encoder_hidden_dim', 256)\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, 'decoder_embed_dim', 256)\n args.decoder_hidden_dim = getattr(args, 'decoder_hidden_dim', 256)\n\n\n3. Training the Model\n---------------------\n\nNow we're ready to train the model. We can use the existing :ref:`fairseq-train`\ncommand-line tool for this, making sure to specify our new Model architecture\n(``--arch tutorial_simple_lstm``).\n\n.. note::\n\n Make sure you've already preprocessed the data from the IWSLT example in the\n :file:`examples/translation/` directory.\n\n.. code-block:: console\n\n > fairseq-train data-bin/iwslt14.tokenized.de-en \\\n --arch tutorial_simple_lstm \\\n --encoder-dropout 0.2 --decoder-dropout 0.2 \\\n --optimizer adam --lr 0.005 --lr-shrink 0.5 \\\n --max-tokens 12000\n (...)\n | epoch 052 | loss 4.027 | ppl 16.30 | wps 420805 | ups 39.7 | wpb 9841 | bsz 400 | num_updates 20852 | lr 1.95313e-05 | gnorm 0.218 | clip 0% | oom 0 | wall 529 | train_wall 396\n | epoch 052 | valid on 'valid' subset | valid_loss 4.74989 | valid_ppl 26.91 | num_updates 20852 | best 4.74954\n\nThe model files should appear in the :file:`checkpoints/` directory. While this\nmodel architecture is not very good, we can use the :ref:`fairseq-generate` script to\ngenerate translations and compute our BLEU score over the test set:\n\n.. code-block:: console\n\n > fairseq-generate data-bin/iwslt14.tokenized.de-en \\\n --path checkpoints/checkpoint_best.pt \\\n --beam 5 \\\n --remove-bpe\n (...)\n | Translated 6750 sentences (153132 tokens) in 17.3s (389.12 sentences/s, 8827.68 tokens/s)\n | Generate test with beam=5: BLEU4 = 8.18, 38.8/12.1/4.7/2.0 (BP=1.000, ratio=1.066, syslen=139865, reflen=131146)\n\n\n4. Making generation faster\n---------------------------\n\nWhile autoregressive generation from sequence-to-sequence models is inherently\nslow, our implementation above is especially slow because it recomputes the\nentire sequence of Decoder hidden states for every output token (i.e., it is\n``O(n^2)``). We can make this significantly faster by instead caching the\nprevious hidden states.\n\nIn fairseq this is called :ref:`Incremental decoding`. Incremental decoding is a\nspecial mode at inference time where the Model only receives a single timestep\nof input corresponding to the immediately previous output token (for teacher\nforcing) and must produce the next output incrementally. Thus the model must\ncache any long-term state that is needed about the sequence, e.g., hidden\nstates, convolutional states, etc.\n\nTo implement incremental decoding we will modify our model to implement the\n:class:`~fairseq.models.FairseqIncrementalDecoder` interface. Compared to the\nstandard :class:`~fairseq.models.FairseqDecoder` interface, the incremental\ndecoder interface allows ``forward()`` methods to take an extra keyword argument\n(*incremental_state*) that can be used to cache state across time-steps.\n\nLet's replace our ``SimpleLSTMDecoder`` with an incremental one::\n\n import torch\n from fairseq.models import FairseqIncrementalDecoder\n\n class SimpleLSTMDecoder(FairseqIncrementalDecoder):\n\n def __init__(\n self, dictionary, encoder_hidden_dim=128, embed_dim=128, hidden_dim=128,\n dropout=0.1,\n ):\n # This remains the same as before.\n super().__init__(dictionary)\n self.embed_tokens = nn.Embedding(\n num_embeddings=len(dictionary),\n embedding_dim=embed_dim,\n padding_idx=dictionary.pad(),\n )\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(p=dropout)\n self.lstm = nn.LSTM(\n input_size=encoder_hidden_dim + embed_dim,\n hidden_size=hidden_dim,\n num_layers=1,\n bidirectional=False,\n )\n self.output_projection = nn.Linear(hidden_dim, len(dictionary))\n\n # We now take an additional kwarg (*incremental_state*) for caching the\n # previous hidden and cell states.\n def forward(self, prev_output_tokens, encoder_out, incremental_state=None):\n if incremental_state is not None:\n # If the *incremental_state* argument is not ``None`` then we are\n # in incremental inference mode. While *prev_output_tokens* will\n # still contain the entire decoded prefix, we will only use the\n # last step and assume that the rest of the state is cached.\n prev_output_tokens = prev_output_tokens[:, -1:]\n\n # This remains the same as before.\n bsz, tgt_len = prev_output_tokens.size()\n final_encoder_hidden = encoder_out['final_hidden']\n x = self.embed_tokens(prev_output_tokens)\n x = self.dropout(x)\n x = torch.cat(\n [x, final_encoder_hidden.unsqueeze(1).expand(bsz, tgt_len, -1)],\n dim=2,\n )\n\n # We will now check the cache and load the cached previous hidden and\n # cell states, if they exist, otherwise we will initialize them to\n # zeros (as before). We will use the ``utils.get_incremental_state()``\n # and ``utils.set_incremental_state()`` helpers.\n initial_state = utils.get_incremental_state(\n self, incremental_state, 'prev_state',\n )\n if initial_state is None:\n # first time initialization, same as the original version\n initial_state = (\n final_encoder_hidden.unsqueeze(0), # hidden\n torch.zeros_like(final_encoder_hidden).unsqueeze(0), # cell\n )\n\n # Run one step of our LSTM.\n output, latest_state = self.lstm(x.transpose(0, 1), initial_state)\n\n # Update the cache with the latest hidden and cell states.\n utils.set_incremental_state(\n self, incremental_state, 'prev_state', latest_state,\n )\n\n # This remains the same as before\n x = output.transpose(0, 1)\n x = self.output_projection(x)\n return x, None\n\n # The ``FairseqIncrementalDecoder`` interface also requires implementing a\n # ``reorder_incremental_state()`` method, which is used during beam search\n # to select and reorder the incremental state.\n def reorder_incremental_state(self, incremental_state, new_order):\n # Load the cached state.\n prev_state = utils.get_incremental_state(\n self, incremental_state, 'prev_state',\n )\n\n # Reorder batches according to *new_order*.\n reordered_state = (\n prev_state[0].index_select(1, new_order), # hidden\n prev_state[1].index_select(1, new_order), # cell\n )\n\n # Update the cached state.\n utils.set_incremental_state(\n self, incremental_state, 'prev_state', reordered_state,\n )\n\nFinally, we can rerun generation and observe the speedup:\n\n.. code-block:: console\n\n # Before\n\n > fairseq-generate data-bin/iwslt14.tokenized.de-en \\\n --path checkpoints/checkpoint_best.pt \\\n --beam 5 \\\n --remove-bpe\n (...)\n | Translated 6750 sentences (153132 tokens) in 17.3s (389.12 sentences/s, 8827.68 tokens/s)\n | Generate test with beam=5: BLEU4 = 8.18, 38.8/12.1/4.7/2.0 (BP=1.000, ratio=1.066, syslen=139865, reflen=131146)\n\n # After\n\n > fairseq-generate data-bin/iwslt14.tokenized.de-en \\\n --path checkpoints/checkpoint_best.pt \\\n --beam 5 \\\n --remove-bpe\n (...)\n | Translated 6750 sentences (153132 tokens) in 5.5s (1225.54 sentences/s, 27802.94 tokens/s)\n | Generate test with beam=5: BLEU4 = 8.18, 38.8/12.1/4.7/2.0 (BP=1.000, ratio=1.066, syslen=139865, reflen=131146)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/eval_lm.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3 -u\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\n\"\"\"\nEvaluate the perplexity of a trained language model.\n\"\"\"\n\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\n\nfrom fairseq import checkpoint_utils, options, progress_bar, tasks, utils\nfrom fairseq.data import LMContextWindowDataset\nfrom fairseq.meters import StopwatchMeter, TimeMeter\nfrom fairseq.sequence_scorer import SequenceScorer\n\n\nclass WordStat(object):\n def __init__(self, word, is_bpe):\n self.word = word\n self.is_bpe = is_bpe\n self.log_prob = 0\n self.next_word_prob = 0\n self.count = 0\n self.missing_next_words = 0\n\n def add(self, log_prob, next_word_prob):\n \"\"\" increments counters for the sum of log probs of current word and next\n word (given context ending at current word). Since the next word might be at the end of the example,\n or it might be not counted because it is not an ending subword unit,\n also keeps track of how many of those we have seen \"\"\"\n if next_word_prob is not None:\n self.next_word_prob += next_word_prob\n else:\n self.missing_next_words += 1\n self.log_prob += log_prob\n self.count += 1\n\n def __str__(self):\n return \"{}\\t{}\\t{}\\t{}\\t{}\\t{}\".format(\n self.word,\n self.count,\n self.log_prob,\n self.is_bpe,\n self.next_word_prob,\n self.count - self.missing_next_words,\n )\n\n\ndef main(parsed_args):\n assert parsed_args.path is not None, \"--path required for evaluation!\"\n\n utils.import_user_module(parsed_args)\n\n print(parsed_args)\n\n use_cuda = torch.cuda.is_available() and not parsed_args.cpu\n\n task = tasks.setup_task(parsed_args)\n\n # Load ensemble\n print(\"| loading model(s) from {}\".format(parsed_args.path))\n models, args = checkpoint_utils.load_model_ensemble(\n parsed_args.path.split(\":\"),\n arg_overrides=eval(parsed_args.model_overrides),\n task=task,\n )\n\n for arg in vars(parsed_args).keys():\n if arg not in {\n \"self_target\",\n \"future_target\",\n \"past_target\",\n \"tokens_per_sample\",\n \"output_size_dictionary\",\n \"add_bos_token\",\n }:\n setattr(args, arg, getattr(parsed_args, arg))\n\n # reduce tokens per sample by the required context window size\n args.tokens_per_sample -= args.context_window\n task = tasks.setup_task(args)\n\n # Load dataset splits\n task.load_dataset(args.gen_subset)\n dataset = task.dataset(args.gen_subset)\n if args.context_window > 0:\n dataset = LMContextWindowDataset(\n dataset=dataset,\n tokens_per_sample=args.tokens_per_sample,\n context_window=args.context_window,\n pad_idx=task.source_dictionary.pad(),\n )\n print(\"| {} {} {} examples\".format(args.data, args.gen_subset, len(dataset)))\n\n # Optimize ensemble for generation and set the source and dest dicts on the model (required by scorer)\n for model in models:\n model.make_generation_fast_()\n if args.fp16:\n model.half()\n if use_cuda:\n model.cuda()\n\n assert len(models) > 0\n\n print(\n \"num. model params: {}\".format(sum(p.numel() for p in models[0].parameters()))\n )\n\n itr = task.get_batch_iterator(\n dataset=dataset,\n max_tokens=args.max_tokens or 36000,\n max_sentences=args.max_sentences,\n max_positions=utils.resolve_max_positions(\n *[model.max_positions() for model in models]\n ),\n ignore_invalid_inputs=True,\n num_shards=args.num_shards,\n shard_id=args.shard_id,\n num_workers=args.num_workers,\n ).next_epoch_itr(shuffle=False)\n\n gen_timer = StopwatchMeter()\n scorer = SequenceScorer(task.target_dictionary, args.softmax_batch)\n\n score_sum = 0.0\n count = 0\n\n if args.remove_bpe is not None:\n if args.remove_bpe == \"sentencepiece\":\n raise NotImplementedError\n else:\n bpe_cont = args.remove_bpe.rstrip()\n bpe_toks = set(\n i\n for i in range(len(task.source_dictionary))\n if task.source_dictionary[i].endswith(bpe_cont)\n )\n bpe_len = len(bpe_cont)\n else:\n bpe_toks = None\n bpe_len = 0\n\n word_stats = dict()\n\n with progress_bar.build_progress_bar(args, itr) as t:\n wps_meter = TimeMeter()\n\n for sample in t:\n if \"net_input\" not in sample:\n continue\n\n sample = utils.move_to_cuda(sample) if use_cuda else sample\n\n gen_timer.start()\n hypos = scorer.generate(models, sample)\n gen_timer.stop(sample[\"ntokens\"])\n\n for i, hypos_i in enumerate(hypos):\n hypo = hypos_i[0]\n sample_id = sample[\"id\"][i]\n\n tokens = hypo[\"tokens\"]\n tgt_len = tokens.numel()\n pos_scores = hypo[\"positional_scores\"].float()\n\n if args.add_bos_token:\n assert hypo[\"tokens\"][0].item() == task.target_dictionary.bos()\n tokens = tokens[1:]\n pos_scores = pos_scores[1:]\n\n skipped_toks = 0\n if bpe_toks is not None:\n for i in range(tgt_len - 1):\n if tokens[i].item() in bpe_toks:\n skipped_toks += 1\n pos_scores[i + 1] += pos_scores[i]\n pos_scores[i] = 0\n\n inf_scores = pos_scores.eq(float(\"inf\")) | pos_scores.eq(float(\"-inf\"))\n if inf_scores.any():\n print(\n \"| Skipping tokens with inf scores:\",\n task.target_dictionary.string(tokens[inf_scores.nonzero()]),\n )\n pos_scores = pos_scores[(~inf_scores).nonzero()]\n score_sum += pos_scores.sum().cpu()\n count += pos_scores.numel() - skipped_toks\n\n if args.output_word_probs or args.output_word_stats:\n w = \"\"\n word_prob = []\n is_bpe = False\n for i in range(len(tokens)):\n w_ind = tokens[i].item()\n w += task.source_dictionary[w_ind]\n if bpe_toks is not None and w_ind in bpe_toks:\n w = w[:-bpe_len]\n is_bpe = True\n else:\n word_prob.append((w, pos_scores[i].item()))\n\n next_prob = None\n ind = i + 1\n while ind < len(tokens):\n if pos_scores[ind].item() != 0:\n next_prob = pos_scores[ind]\n break\n ind += 1\n\n word_stats.setdefault(w, WordStat(w, is_bpe)).add(\n pos_scores[i].item(), next_prob\n )\n is_bpe = False\n w = \"\"\n if args.output_word_probs:\n print(\n str(int(sample_id))\n + \" \"\n + (\n \"\\t\".join(\n \"{} [{:2f}]\".format(x[0], x[1]) for x in word_prob\n )\n )\n )\n\n wps_meter.update(sample[\"ntokens\"])\n t.log({\"wps\": round(wps_meter.avg)})\n\n avg_nll_loss = -score_sum / count\n print(\n \"| Evaluated {} tokens in {:.1f}s ({:.2f} tokens/s)\".format(\n gen_timer.n, gen_timer.sum, 1.0 / gen_timer.avg\n )\n )\n print(\n \"| Loss: {:.4f}, Perplexity: {:.2f}\".format(avg_nll_loss, np.exp(avg_nll_loss))\n )\n\n if args.output_word_stats:\n for ws in sorted(word_stats.values(), key=lambda x: x.count, reverse=True):\n print(ws)\n\n\ndef cli_main():\n parser = options.get_eval_lm_parser()\n args = options.parse_args_and_arch(parser)\n main(args)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n cli_main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/.gitignore", "content": "!*/*.sh\n!*/*.md\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/__init__.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\n__version__ = \"0.9.0\"\n\nimport examples.noisychannel # noqa\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/backtranslation/README.md", "content": "# Understanding Back-Translation at Scale (Edunov et al., 2018)\n\nThis page includes pre-trained models from the paper [Understanding Back-Translation at Scale (Edunov et al., 2018)](https://arxiv.org/abs/1808.09381).\n\n## Pre-trained models\n\nModel | Description | Dataset | Download\n---|---|---|---\n`transformer.wmt18.en-de` | Transformer
([Edunov et al., 2018](https://arxiv.org/abs/1808.09381))
WMT'18 winner | [WMT'18 English-German](http://www.statmt.org/wmt18/translation-task.html) | [download (.tar.gz)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt18.en-de.ensemble.tar.gz)
See NOTE in the archive\n\n## Example usage (torch.hub)\n\nWe require a few additional Python dependencies for preprocessing:\n```bash\npip install subword_nmt sacremoses\n```\n\nThen to generate translations from the full model ensemble:\n```python\nimport torch\n\n# List available models\ntorch.hub.list('pytorch/fairseq') # [..., 'transformer.wmt18.en-de', ... ]\n\n# Load the WMT'18 En-De ensemble\nen2de_ensemble = torch.hub.load(\n 'pytorch/fairseq', 'transformer.wmt18.en-de',\n checkpoint_file='wmt18.model1.pt:wmt18.model2.pt:wmt18.model3.pt:wmt18.model4.pt:wmt18.model5.pt',\n tokenizer='moses', bpe='subword_nmt')\n\n# The ensemble contains 5 models\nlen(en2de_ensemble.models)\n# 5\n\n# Translate\nen2de_ensemble.translate('Hello world!')\n# 'Hallo Welt!'\n```\n\n## Citation\n```bibtex\n@inproceedings{edunov2018backtranslation,\n title = {Understanding Back-Translation at Scale},\n author = {Edunov, Sergey and Ott, Myle and Auli, Michael and Grangier, David},\n booktitle = {Conference of the Association for Computational Linguistics (ACL)},\n year = 2018,\n}\n```\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/bart/README.cnn.md", "content": "# Fine-tuning BART on CNN-Dailymail summarization task\n\n### 1) Follow instructions [here](https://github.com/abisee/cnn-dailymail) to download and process into data-files with non-tokenized cased samples.\n\n### 2) BPE preprocess:\n```bash\nwget -N 'https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/gpt2_bpe/encoder.json'\nwget -N 'https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/gpt2_bpe/vocab.bpe'\nwget -N 'https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/gpt2_bpe/dict.txt'\n\nfor SPLIT in train val\ndo\n for LANG in source target\n do\n python -m examples.roberta.multiprocessing_bpe_encoder \\\n --encoder-json encoder.json \\\n --vocab-bpe vocab.bpe \\\n --inputs \"cnn_dm/$SPLIT.$LANG\" \\\n --outputs \"cnn_dm/$SPLIT.bpe.$LANG\" \\\n --workers 60 \\\n --keep-empty;\n done\ndone\n```\n\n### 3) Binarize dataset:\n```bash\nfairseq-preprocess \\\n --source-lang \"source\" \\\n --target-lang \"target\" \\\n --trainpref \"cnn_dm/train.bpe\" \\\n --validpref \"cnn_dm/val.bpe\" \\\n --destdir \"cnn_dm-bin/\" \\\n --workers 60 \\\n --srcdict dict.txt \\\n --tgtdict dict.txt;\n```\n\n### 4) Fine-tuning on CNN-DM summarization task:\nExample fine-tuning cmd\n```bash\nTOTAL_NUM_UPDATES=20000 \nWARMUP_UPDATES=500 \nLR=3e-05\nMAX_TOKENS=2048\nUPDATE_FREQ=4\nBART_PATH=/path/to/bart/model.pt\n\nCUDA_VISIBLE_DEVICES=0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7 python train.py cnn_dm-bin \\\n --restore-file $BART_PATH \\\n --max-tokens $MAX_TOKENS \\\n --task translation \\\n --source-lang source --target-lang target \\\n --truncate-source \\\n --layernorm-embedding \\\n --share-all-embeddings \\\n --share-decoder-input-output-embed \\\n --reset-optimizer --reset-dataloader --reset-meters \\\n --required-batch-size-multiple 1 \\\n --arch bart_large \\\n --criterion label_smoothed_cross_entropy \\\n --label-smoothing 0.1 \\\n --dropout 0.1 --attention-dropout 0.1 \\\n --weight-decay 0.01 --optimizer adam --adam-betas \"(0.9, 0.999)\" --adam-eps 1e-08 \\\n --clip-norm 0.1 \\\n --lr-scheduler polynomial_decay --lr $LR --total-num-update $TOTAL_NUM_UPDATES --warmup-updates $WARMUP_UPDATES \\\n --fp16 --update-freq $UPDATE_FREQ \\\n --skip-invalid-size-inputs-valid-test \\\n --find-unused-parameters;\n```\nAbove is expected to run on `1` node with `8 32gb-V100`.\nExpected training time is about `5 hours`. Training time can be reduced with distributed training on `4` nodes and `--update-freq 1`.\n\n### Inference for CNN-DM test data using above trained checkpoint.\nAfter training the model as mentioned in previous step, you can perform inference with checkpoints in `checkpoints/` directory using following python code snippet:\n\n```python\nfrom fairseq.models.bart import BARTModel\n\nbart = BARTModel.from_pretrained(\n 'checkpoints/',\n checkpoint_file='checkpoint_best.pt',\n data_name_or_path='cnn_dm-bin'\n)\n\nbart.cuda()\nbart.eval()\nbart.half()\ncount = 1\nbsz = 32\nwith open('cnn_dm/test.source') as source, open('cnn_dm/test.hypo', 'w') as fout:\n sline = source.readline().strip()\n slines = [sline]\n for sline in source:\n if count % bsz == 0:\n with torch.no_grad():\n hypotheses_batch = bart.sample(slines, beam=4, lenpen=2.0, max_len_b=140, min_len=55, no_repeat_ngram_size=3)\n\n for hypothesis in hypotheses_batch:\n fout.write(hypothesis + '\\n')\n fout.flush()\n slines = []\n\n slines.append(sline.strip())\n count += 1\n if slines != []:\n hypotheses_batch = bart.sample(slines, beam=4, lenpen=2.0, max_len_b=140, min_len=55, no_repeat_ngram_size=3)\n for hypothesis in hypotheses_batch:\n fout.write(hypothesis + '\\n')\n fout.flush()\n```\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/bart/README.glue.md", "content": "# Fine-tuning BART on GLUE tasks\n\n### 1) Download the data from GLUE website (https://gluebenchmark.com/tasks) using following commands:\n```bash\nwget https://gist.githubusercontent.com/W4ngatang/60c2bdb54d156a41194446737ce03e2e/raw/17b8dd0d724281ed7c3b2aeeda662b92809aadd5/download_glue_data.py\npython download_glue_data.py --data_dir glue_data --tasks all\n```\n\n### 2) Preprocess GLUE task data (same as RoBERTa):\n```bash\n./examples/roberta/preprocess_GLUE_tasks.sh glue_data \n```\n`glue_task_name` is one of the following:\n`{ALL, QQP, MNLI, QNLI, MRPC, RTE, STS-B, SST-2, CoLA}`\nUse `ALL` for preprocessing all the glue tasks.\n\n### 3) Fine-tuning on GLUE task:\nExample fine-tuning cmd for `RTE` task\n```bash\nTOTAL_NUM_UPDATES=2036 # 10 epochs through RTE for bsz 16\nWARMUP_UPDATES=61 # 6 percent of the number of updates\nLR=1e-05 # Peak LR for polynomial LR scheduler.\nNUM_CLASSES=2\nMAX_SENTENCES=16 # Batch size.\nBART_PATH=/path/to/bart/model.pt\n\nCUDA_VISIBLE_DEVICES=0,1 python train.py RTE-bin/ \\\n --restore-file $BART_PATH \\\n --max-sentences $MAX_SENTENCES \\\n --max-tokens 4400 \\\n --task sentence_prediction \\\n --add-prev-output-tokens \\\n --layernorm-embedding \\\n --share-all-embeddings \\\n --share-decoder-input-output-embed \\\n --reset-optimizer --reset-dataloader --reset-meters \\\n --required-batch-size-multiple 1 \\\n --init-token 0 \\\n --arch bart_large \\\n --criterion sentence_prediction \\\n --num-classes $NUM_CLASSES \\\n --dropout 0.1 --attention-dropout 0.1 \\\n --weight-decay 0.01 --optimizer adam --adam-betas \"(0.9, 0.98)\" --adam-eps 1e-08 \\\n --clip-norm 0.0 \\\n --lr-scheduler polynomial_decay --lr $LR --total-num-update $TOTAL_NUM_UPDATES --warmup-updates $WARMUP_UPDATES \\\n --fp16 --fp16-init-scale 4 --threshold-loss-scale 1 --fp16-scale-window 128 \\\n --max-epoch 10 \\\n --find-unused-parameters \\\n --best-checkpoint-metric accuracy --maximize-best-checkpoint-metric;\n```\n\nFor each of the GLUE task, you will need to use following cmd-line arguments:\n\nModel | MNLI | QNLI | QQP | RTE | SST-2 | MRPC | CoLA | STS-B\n---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---\n`--num-classes` | 3 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 1\n`--lr` | 5e-6 | 1e-5 | 1e-5 | 1e-5 | 5e-6 | 2e-5 | 2e-5 | 2e-5\n`bsz` | 128 | 32 | 32 | 32 | 128 | 64 | 64 | 32\n`--total-num-update` | 30968 | 33112 | 113272 | 1018 | 5233 | 1148 | 1334 | 1799\n`--warmup-updates` | 1858 | 1986 | 6796 | 61 | 314 | 68 | 80 | 107\n\nFor `STS-B` additionally add `--regression-target --best-checkpoint-metric loss` and remove `--maximize-best-checkpoint-metric`.\n\n**Note:**\n\na) `--total-num-updates` is used by `--polynomial_decay` scheduler and is calculated for `--max-epoch=10` and `--max-sentences=32/64/128` depending on the task.\n\nb) Above cmd-args and hyperparams are tested on Nvidia `V100` GPU with `32gb` of memory for each task. Depending on the GPU memory resources available to you, you can use increase `--update-freq` and reduce `--max-sentences`.\n\n### Inference on GLUE task\nAfter training the model as mentioned in previous step, you can perform inference with checkpoints in `checkpoints/` directory using following python code snippet:\n\n```python\nfrom fairseq.models.bart import BARTModel\n\nbart = BARTModel.from_pretrained(\n 'checkpoints/',\n checkpoint_file='checkpoint_best.pt',\n data_name_or_path='RTE-bin'\n)\n\nlabel_fn = lambda label: bart.task.label_dictionary.string(\n [label + bart.task.label_dictionary.nspecial]\n) \nncorrect, nsamples = 0, 0\nbart.cuda()\nbart.eval()\nwith open('glue_data/RTE/dev.tsv') as fin:\n fin.readline()\n for index, line in enumerate(fin):\n tokens = line.strip().split('\\t')\n sent1, sent2, target = tokens[1], tokens[2], tokens[3]\n tokens = bart.encode(sent1, sent2)\n prediction = bart.predict('sentence_classification_head', tokens).argmax().item()\n prediction_label = label_fn(prediction)\n ncorrect += int(prediction_label == target)\n nsamples += 1\nprint('| Accuracy: ', float(ncorrect)/float(nsamples))\n```\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/bart/README.md", "content": "# BART: Denoising Sequence-to-Sequence Pre-training for Natural Language Generation, Translation, and Comprehension\n\n[https://arxiv.org/pdf/1910.13461.pdf]\n\n## Introduction\n\nBART is sequence-to-sequence model trained with denoising as pretraining objective. We show that this pretraining objective is more generic and show that we can match [RoBERTa](../roberta) Results on SQuAD and GLUE and gain state-of-the-art results on summarization (XSum, CNN dataset), long form generative question answering (ELI5) and dialog response genration (ConvAI2). See the associated paper for more details.\n\n## Pre-trained models\n\nModel | Description | # params | Download\n---|---|---|---\n`bart.large` | BART model with 12 encoder and decoder layers | 400M | [bart.large.tar.gz](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/bart.large.tar.gz)\n`bart.large.mnli` | `bart.large` finetuned on `MNLI` | 400M | [bart.large.mnli.tar.gz](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/bart.large.mnli.tar.gz)\n`bart.large.cnn` | `bart.large` finetuned on `CNN-DM` | 400M | [bart.large.cnn.tar.gz](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/bart.large.cnn.tar.gz)\n\n## Results\n\n**[GLUE (Wang et al., 2019)](https://gluebenchmark.com/)**\n_(dev set, single model, single-task finetuning)_\n\nModel | MNLI | QNLI | QQP | RTE | SST-2 | MRPC | CoLA | STS-B\n---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---\n`roberta.large` | 90.2 | 94.7 | 92.2 | 86.6 | 96.4 | 90.9 | 68.0 | 92.4\n`bart.large` | 89.9 | 94.9 | 92.5 | 87.0 | 96.6 | 90.4 | 62.8 | 91.2\n\n**[SQuAD (Rajpurkar et al., 2018)](https://rajpurkar.github.io/SQuAD-explorer/)**\n_(dev set, no additional data used)_\n\nModel | SQuAD 1.1 EM/F1 | SQuAD 2.0 EM/F1\n---|---|---\n`roberta.large` | 88.9/94.6 | 86.5/89.4\n`bart.large` | 88.8/94.6 | 86.1/89.2\n\n**[CNN/Daily Mail](http://nlpprogress.com/english/summarization.html)**\n_(test set, no additional data used)_\n\nModel | R1 | R2 | RL\n---|---|---|---\n`BERTSUMEXTABS` | 42.13 | 19.60 | 39.18\n`bart.large` | 44.16 | 21.28 | 40.90\n\n## Example usage\n\n##### Load BART from torch.hub (PyTorch >= 1.1):\n```python\nimport torch\nbart = torch.hub.load('pytorch/fairseq', 'bart.large')\nbart.eval() # disable dropout (or leave in train mode to finetune)\n```\n\n##### Load BART (for PyTorch 1.0 or custom models):\n```python\n# Download bart.large model\nwget https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/bart.large.tar.gz\ntar -xzvf bart.large.tar.gz\n\n# Load the model in fairseq\nfrom fairseq.models.bart import BARTModel\nbart = BARTModel.from_pretrained('/path/to/bart.large', checkpoint_file='model.pt')\nbart.eval() # disable dropout (or leave in train mode to finetune)\n```\n\n##### Apply Byte-Pair Encoding (BPE) to input text:\n```python\ntokens = bart.encode('Hello world!')\nassert tokens.tolist() == [0, 31414, 232, 328, 2]\nbart.decode(tokens) # 'Hello world!'\n```\n\n##### Extract features from BART:\n```python\n# Extract the last layer's features\nlast_layer_features = bart.extract_features(tokens)\nassert last_layer_features.size() == torch.Size([1, 5, 1024])\n\n# Extract all layer's features from decoder (layer 0 is the embedding layer)\nall_layers = bart.extract_features(tokens, return_all_hiddens=True)\nassert len(all_layers) == 13\nassert torch.all(all_layers[-1] == last_layer_features)\n```\n\n##### Use BART for sentence-pair classification tasks:\n```python\n# Download BART already finetuned for MNLI\nbart = torch.hub.load('pytorch/fairseq', 'bart.large.mnli')\nbart.eval() # disable dropout for evaluation\n\n# Encode a pair of sentences and make a prediction\ntokens = bart.encode('BART is a seq2seq model.', 'BART is not sequence to sequence.')\nbart.predict('mnli', tokens).argmax() # 0: contradiction\n\n# Encode another pair of sentences\ntokens = bart.encode('BART is denoising autoencoder.', 'BART is version of autoencoder.')\nbart.predict('mnli', tokens).argmax() # 2: entailment\n```\n\n##### Register a new (randomly initialized) classification head:\n```python\nbart.register_classification_head('new_task', num_classes=3)\nlogprobs = bart.predict('new_task', tokens) \n```\n\n##### Batched prediction:\n```python\nimport torch\nfrom fairseq.data.data_utils import collate_tokens\n\nbart = torch.hub.load('pytorch/fairseq', 'bart.large.mnli')\nbart.eval()\n\nbatch_of_pairs = [\n ['BART is a seq2seq model.', 'BART is not sequence to sequence.'],\n ['BART is denoising autoencoder.', 'BART is version of autoencoder.'],\n]\n\nbatch = collate_tokens(\n [bart.encode(pair[0], pair[1]) for pair in batch_of_pairs], pad_idx=1\n)\n\nlogprobs = bart.predict('mnli', batch)\nprint(logprobs.argmax(dim=1))\n# tensor([0, 2])\n```\n\n##### Using the GPU:\n```python\nbart.cuda()\nbart.predict('new_task', tokens)\n```\n\n#### Evaluating the `bart.large.mnli` model:\n\nExample python code snippet to evaluate accuracy on the MNLI `dev_matched` set.\n```python\nlabel_map = {0: 'contradiction', 1: 'neutral', 2: 'entailment'}\nncorrect, nsamples = 0, 0\nbart.cuda()\nbart.eval()\nwith open('glue_data/MNLI/dev_matched.tsv') as fin:\n fin.readline()\n for index, line in enumerate(fin):\n tokens = line.strip().split('\\t')\n sent1, sent2, target = tokens[8], tokens[9], tokens[-1]\n tokens = bart.encode(sent1, sent2)\n prediction = bart.predict('mnli', tokens).argmax().item()\n prediction_label = label_map[prediction]\n ncorrect += int(prediction_label == target)\n nsamples += 1\n print('| Accuracy: ', float(ncorrect)/float(nsamples))\n# Expected output: 0.9010\n```\n\n#### Evaluating the `bart.large.cnn` model:\nFollow instructions [here](https://github.com/abisee/cnn-dailymail) to download and process into data-files such that `test.source` and `test.target` has one line for each non-tokenized sample.\n\n```python\nbart = torch.hub.load('pytorch/fairseq', 'bart.large.cnn')\nbart.cuda()\nbart.eval()\nbart.half()\ncount = 1\nbsz = 32\nwith open('test.source') as source, open('test.hypo', 'w') as fout:\n sline = source.readline().strip()\n slines = [sline]\n for sline in source:\n if count % bsz == 0:\n with torch.no_grad():\n hypotheses_batch = bart.sample(slines, beam=4, lenpen=2.0, max_len_b=140, min_len=55, no_repeat_ngram_size=3)\n\n for hypothesis in hypotheses_batch:\n fout.write(hypothesis + '\\n')\n fout.flush()\n slines = []\n\n slines.append(sline.strip())\n count += 1\n if slines != []:\n hypotheses_batch = bart.sample(slines, beam=4, lenpen=2.0, max_len_b=140, min_len=55, no_repeat_ngram_size=3)\n for hypothesis in hypotheses_batch:\n fout.write(hypothesis + '\\n')\n fout.flush()\n```\n\nInstall `files2rouge` from [here](https://github.com/pltrdy/files2rouge).\n\n```bash\nexport CLASSPATH=/path/to/stanford-corenlp-full-2016-10-31/stanford-corenlp-3.7.0.jar\n\n# Tokenize hypothesis and target files.\ncat test.hypo | java edu.stanford.nlp.process.PTBTokenizer -ioFileList -preserveLines > test.hypo.tokenized\ncat test.target | java edu.stanford.nlp.process.PTBTokenizer -ioFileList -preserveLines > test.hypo.target\nfiles2rouge test.hypo.tokenized test.hypo.target\n# Expected output: (ROUGE-2 Average_F: 0.21238)\n```\n\n\n## Finetuning\n\n- [Finetuning on GLUE](README.glue.md)\n- [Finetuning on CNN-DM](README.cnn.md)\n\n## Citation\n\n```bibtex\n@article{lewis2019bart,\n title = {BART: Denoising Sequence-to-Sequence Pre-training for Natural\nLanguage Generation, Translation, and Comprehension},\n author = {Mike Lewis and Yinhan Liu and Naman Goyal and Marjan Ghazvininejad and\n Abdelrahman Mohamed and Omer Levy and Veselin Stoyanov\n and Luke Zettlemoyer },\n journal={arXiv preprint arXiv:1910.13461},\n year = {2019},\n}\n```\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/camembert/README.md", "content": "# CamemBERT: a French BERT\n\n## Introduction\n\nCamemBERT is a pretrained language model trained on 138GB of French text based on RoBERTa.\n\nAlso available in [github.com/huggingface/transformers](https://github.com/huggingface/transformers/).\n\n## Pre-trained models\n\nModel | #params | vocab size | Download\n---|---|---|---\n`CamemBERT` | 110M | 32k | [camembert.v0.tar.gz](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/camembert.v0.tar.gz)\n\n\n## Example usage\n\n##### Load CamemBERT from torch.hub (PyTorch >= 1.1):\n```python\nimport torch\ncamembert = torch.hub.load('pytorch/fairseq', 'camembert.v0')\ncamembert.eval() # disable dropout (or leave in train mode to finetune)\n```\n\n##### Load CamemBERT (for PyTorch 1.0 or custom models):\n```python\n# Download camembert model\nwget https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/camembert.v0.tar.gz\ntar -xzvf camembert.v0.tar.gz\n\n# Load the model in fairseq\nfrom fairseq.models.roberta import CamembertModel\ncamembert = CamembertModel.from_pretrained('/path/to/camembert.v0')\ncamembert.eval() # disable dropout (or leave in train mode to finetune)\n```\n\n##### Filling masks:\n```python\nmasked_line = 'Le camembert est :)'\ncamembert.fill_mask(masked_line, topk=3)\n# [('Le camembert est délicieux :)', 0.4909118115901947, ' délicieux'),\n# ('Le camembert est excellent :)', 0.10556942224502563, ' excellent'),\n# ('Le camembert est succulent :)', 0.03453322499990463, ' succulent')]\n```\n\n##### Extract features from Camembert:\n```python\n# Extract the last layer's features\nline = \"J'aime le camembert !\"\ntokens = camembert.encode(line)\nlast_layer_features = camembert.extract_features(tokens)\nassert last_layer_features.size() == torch.Size([1, 10, 768])\n\n# Extract all layer's features (layer 0 is the embedding layer)\nall_layers = camembert.extract_features(tokens, return_all_hiddens=True)\nassert len(all_layers) == 13\nassert torch.all(all_layers[-1] == last_layer_features)\n```\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/conv_seq2seq/README.md", "content": "# Convolutional Sequence to Sequence Learning (Gehring et al., 2017)\n\n## Pre-trained models\n\nDescription | Dataset | Model | Test set(s)\n---|---|---|---\nConvolutional
([Gehring et al., 2017](https://arxiv.org/abs/1705.03122)) | [WMT14 English-French](http://statmt.org/wmt14/translation-task.html#Download) | [download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt14.v2.en-fr.fconv-py.tar.bz2) | newstest2014:
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/wmt14.v2.en-fr.newstest2014.tar.bz2)
newstest2012/2013:
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/wmt14.v2.en-fr.ntst1213.tar.bz2)\nConvolutional
([Gehring et al., 2017](https://arxiv.org/abs/1705.03122)) | [WMT14 English-German](http://statmt.org/wmt14/translation-task.html#Download) | [download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt14.en-de.fconv-py.tar.bz2) | newstest2014:
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/wmt14.en-de.newstest2014.tar.bz2)\nConvolutional
([Gehring et al., 2017](https://arxiv.org/abs/1705.03122)) | [WMT17 English-German](http://statmt.org/wmt17/translation-task.html#Download) | [download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt17.v2.en-de.fconv-py.tar.bz2) | newstest2014:
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/wmt17.v2.en-de.newstest2014.tar.bz2)\n\n## Example usage\n\nSee the [translation README](../translation/README.md) for instructions on reproducing results for WMT'14 En-De and\nWMT'14 En-Fr using the `fconv_wmt_en_de` and `fconv_wmt_en_fr` model architectures.\n\n## Citation\n\n```bibtex\n@inproceedings{gehring2017convs2s,\n title = {Convolutional Sequence to Sequence Learning},\n author = {Gehring, Jonas, and Auli, Michael and Grangier, David and Yarats, Denis and Dauphin, Yann N},\n booktitle = {Proc. of ICML},\n year = 2017,\n}\n```\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/cross_lingual_language_model/README.md", "content": "# Cross-Lingual Language Model Pre-training\n\nBelow are some details for training Cross-Lingual Language Models (XLM) - similar to the ones presented in [Lample & Conneau, 2019](https://arxiv.org/pdf/1901.07291.pdf) - in Fairseq. The current implementation only supports the Masked Language Model (MLM) from the paper above.\n\n## Downloading and Tokenizing Monolingual Data\n\nPointers to the monolingual data from wikipedia, used for training the XLM-style MLM model as well as details on processing (tokenization and BPE) it can be found in the [XLM Github Repository](https://github.com/facebookresearch/XLM#download--preprocess-monolingual-data).\n\nLet's assume the following for the code snippets in later sections to work\n- Processed data is in the folder: monolingual_data/processed\n- Each language has 3 files for train, test and validation. For example we have the following files for English:\n train.en, valid.en\n- We are training a model for 5 languages: Arabic (ar), German (de), English (en), Hindi (hi) and French (fr)\n- The vocabulary file is monolingual_data/processed/vocab_mlm\n\n\n## Fairseq Pre-processing and Binarization\n\nPre-process and binarize the data with the MaskedLMDictionary and cross_lingual_lm task\n\n```bash\n# Ensure the output directory exists\nDATA_DIR=monolingual_data/fairseq_processed\nmkdir -p \"$DATA_DIR\"\n\nfor lg in ar de en hi fr\ndo\n\n fairseq-preprocess \\\n --task cross_lingual_lm \\\n --srcdict monolingual_data/processed/vocab_mlm \\\n --only-source \\\n --trainpref monolingual_data/processed/train \\\n --validpref monolingual_data/processed/valid \\\n --testpref monolingual_data/processed/test \\\n --destdir monolingual_data/fairseq_processed \\\n --workers 20 \\\n --source-lang $lg\n\n # Since we only have a source language, the output file has a None for the\n # target language. Remove this\n\n for stage in train test valid\n\n sudo mv \"$DATA_DIR/$stage.$lg-None.$lg.bin\" \"$stage.$lg.bin\"\n sudo mv \"$DATA_DIR/$stage.$lg-None.$lg.idx\" \"$stage.$lg.idx\"\n\n done\n\ndone\n```\n\n## Train a Cross-lingual Language Model similar to the XLM MLM model\n\nUse the following command to train the model on 5 languages.\n\n```\nfairseq-train \\\n--task cross_lingual_lm monolingual_data/fairseq_processed \\\n--save-dir checkpoints/mlm \\\n--max-update 2400000 --save-interval 1 --no-epoch-checkpoints \\\n--arch xlm_base \\\n--optimizer adam --lr-scheduler reduce_lr_on_plateau \\\n--lr-shrink 0.5 --lr 0.0001 --min-lr 1e-09 \\\n--dropout 0.1 \\\n--criterion legacy_masked_lm_loss \\\n--max-tokens 2048 --tokens-per-sample 256 --attention-dropout 0.1 \\\n--dataset-impl lazy --seed 0 \\\n--masked-lm-only \\\n--monolingual-langs 'ar,de,en,hi,fr' --num-segment 5 \\\n--ddp-backend=no_c10d\n```\n\nSome Notes:\n- Using tokens_per_sample greater than 256 can cause OOM (out-of-memory) issues. Usually since MLM packs in streams of text, this parameter doesn't need much tuning.\n- The Evaluation workflow for computing MLM Perplexity on test data is in progress.\n- Finetuning this model on a downstream task is something which is not currently available.\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/joint_alignment_translation/README.md", "content": "# Jointly Learning to Align and Translate with Transformer Models (Garg et al., 2019)\n\nThis page includes instructions for training models described in [Jointly Learning to Align and Translate with Transformer Models (Garg et al., 2019)](https://arxiv.org/abs/1909.02074).\n\n## Training a joint alignment-translation model on WMT'18 En-De\n\n##### 1. Extract and preprocess the WMT'18 En-De data\n```bash\n./prepare-wmt18en2de_no_norm_no_escape_no_agressive.sh\n```\n\n##### 2. Generate alignments from statistical alignment toolkits e.g. Giza++/FastAlign.\nIn this example, we use FastAlign.\n```bash\ngit clone git@github.com:clab/fast_align.git\npushd fast_align\nmkdir build\ncd build\ncmake ..\nmake\npopd\nALIGN=fast_align/build/fast_align\npaste bpe.32k/train.en bpe.32k/train.de | awk -F '\\t' '{print $1 \" ||| \" $2}' > bpe.32k/train.en-de\n$ALIGN -i bpe.32k/train.en-de -d -o -v > bpe.32k/train.align\n```\n\n##### 3. Preprocess the dataset with the above generated alignments.\n```bash\nfairseq-preprocess \\\n --source-lang en --target-lang de \\\n --trainpref bpe.32k/train \\\n --validpref bpe.32k/valid \\\n --testpref bpe.32k/test \\\n --align-suffix align \\\n --destdir binarized/ \\\n --joined-dictionary \\\n --workers 32\n```\n\n##### 4. Train a model\n```bash\nfairseq-train \\\n binarized \\\n --arch transformer_wmt_en_de_big_align --share-all-embeddings \\\n --optimizer adam --adam-betas '(0.9, 0.98)' --clip-norm 0.0 --activation-fn relu\\\n --lr 0.0002 --lr-scheduler inverse_sqrt --warmup-updates 4000 --warmup-init-lr 1e-07 \\\n --dropout 0.3 --attention-dropout 0.1 --weight-decay 0.0 \\\n --max-tokens 3500 --label-smoothing 0.1 \\\n --save-dir ./checkpoints --log-interval 1000 --max-update 60000 \\\n --keep-interval-updates -1 --save-interval-updates 0 \\\n --load-alignments --criterion label_smoothed_cross_entropy_with_alignment \\\n --fp16\n```\n\nNote that the `--fp16` flag requires you have CUDA 9.1 or greater and a Volta GPU or newer.\n\nIf you want to train the above model with big batches (assuming your machine has 8 GPUs):\n- add `--update-freq 8` to simulate training on 8x8=64 GPUs\n- increase the learning rate; 0.0007 works well for big batches\n\n##### 5. Evaluate and generate the alignments (BPE level)\n```bash\nfairseq-generate \\\n binarized --gen-subset test --print-alignment \\\n --source-lang en --target-lang de \\\n --path checkpoints/checkpoint_best.pt --beam 5 --nbest 1\n```\n\n##### 6. Other resources.\nThe code for:\n1. preparing alignment test sets\n2. converting BPE level alignments to token level alignments\n3. symmetrizing bidirectional alignments\n4. evaluating alignments using AER metric\ncan be found [here](https://github.com/lilt/alignment-scripts)\n\n## Citation\n\n```bibtex\n@inproceedings{garg2019jointly,\n title = {Jointly Learning to Align and Translate with Transformer Models},\n author = {Garg, Sarthak and Peitz, Stephan and Nallasamy, Udhyakumar and Paulik, Matthias},\n booktitle = {Conference on Empirical Methods in Natural Language Processing (EMNLP)},\n address = {Hong Kong},\n month = {November},\n url = {https://arxiv.org/abs/1909.02074},\n year = {2019},\n}\n```\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/joint_alignment_translation/prepare-wmt18en2de_no_norm_no_escape_no_agressive.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\necho 'Cloning Moses github repository (for tokenization scripts)...'\ngit clone https://github.com/moses-smt/mosesdecoder.git\n\nSCRIPTS=mosesdecoder/scripts\nTOKENIZER=$SCRIPTS/tokenizer/tokenizer.perl\nCLEAN=$SCRIPTS/training/clean-corpus-n.perl\nREM_NON_PRINT_CHAR=$SCRIPTS/tokenizer/remove-non-printing-char.perl\n\nURLS=(\n \"http://statmt.org/wmt13/training-parallel-europarl-v7.tgz\"\n \"http://statmt.org/wmt13/training-parallel-commoncrawl.tgz\"\n \"http://data.statmt.org/wmt18/translation-task/training-parallel-nc-v13.tgz\"\n \"http://data.statmt.org/wmt18/translation-task/rapid2016.tgz\"\n \"http://data.statmt.org/wmt17/translation-task/dev.tgz\"\n \"http://statmt.org/wmt14/test-full.tgz\"\n)\nCORPORA=(\n \"training/europarl-v7.de-en\"\n \"commoncrawl.de-en\"\n \"training-parallel-nc-v13/news-commentary-v13.de-en\"\n \"rapid2016.de-en\"\n)\n\nif [ ! -d \"$SCRIPTS\" ]; then\n echo \"Please set SCRIPTS variable correctly to point to Moses scripts.\"\n exit\nfi\n\nsrc=en\ntgt=de\nlang=en-de\nprep=wmt18_en_de\ntmp=$prep/tmp\norig=orig\ndev=dev/newstest2012\ncodes=32000\nbpe=bpe.32k\n\nmkdir -p $orig $tmp $prep $bpe\n\ncd $orig\n\nfor ((i=0;i<${#URLS[@]};++i)); do\n url=${URLS[i]}\n file=$(basename $url)\n if [ -f $file ]; then\n echo \"$file already exists, skipping download\"\n else\n wget \"$url\"\n if [ -f $file ]; then\n echo \"$url successfully downloaded.\"\n else\n echo \"$url not successfully downloaded.\"\n exit 1\n fi\n if [ ${file: -4} == \".tgz\" ]; then\n tar zxvf $file\n elif [ ${file: -4} == \".tar\" ]; then\n tar xvf $file\n fi\n fi\ndone\ncd ..\n\necho \"pre-processing train data...\"\nfor l in $src $tgt; do\n rm -rf $tmp/train.tags.$lang.tok.$l\n for f in \"${CORPORA[@]}\"; do\n cat $orig/$f.$l | \\\n perl $REM_NON_PRINT_CHAR | \\\n perl $TOKENIZER -threads 8 -l $l -no-escape >> $tmp/train.tags.$lang.tok.$l\n done\ndone\n\necho \"pre-processing test data...\"\nfor l in $src $tgt; do\n if [ \"$l\" == \"$src\" ]; then\n t=\"src\"\n else\n t=\"ref\"\n fi\n grep '\\s*//g' | \\\n sed -e 's/\\s*<\\/seg>\\s*//g' | \\\n sed -e \"s/\\’/\\'/g\" | \\\n perl $TOKENIZER -threads 8 -l $l -no-escape > $tmp/test.$l\n echo \"\"\ndone\n\n# apply length filtering before BPE\nperl $CLEAN -ratio 1.5 $tmp/train.tags.$lang.tok $src $tgt $tmp/train 1 100\n\n# use newstest2012 for valid\necho \"pre-processing valid data...\"\nfor l in $src $tgt; do\n rm -rf $tmp/valid.$l\n cat $orig/$dev.$l | \\\n perl $REM_NON_PRINT_CHAR | \\\n perl $TOKENIZER -threads 8 -l $l -no-escape >> $tmp/valid.$l\ndone\n\nmkdir output\nmv $tmp/{train,valid,test}.{$src,$tgt} output\n\n#BPE\ngit clone git@github.com:glample/fastBPE.git\npushd fastBPE\ng++ -std=c++11 -pthread -O3 fastBPE/main.cc -IfastBPE -o fast\npopd\nfastBPE/fast learnbpe $codes output/train.$src output/train.$tgt > $bpe/codes\nfor split in {train,valid,test}; do for lang in {en,de}; do fastBPE/fast applybpe $bpe/$split.$lang output/$split.$lang $bpe/codes; done; done\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/language_model/README.md", "content": "# Neural Language Modeling\n\n## Pre-trained models\n\nModel | Description | Dataset | Download\n---|---|---|---\n`transformer_lm.gbw.adaptive_huge` | Adaptive Inputs
([Baevski and Auli, 2018](https://arxiv.org/abs/1809.10853))
1026M params | [Google Billion Words](https://github.com/ciprian-chelba/1-billion-word-language-modeling-benchmark) | [download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/lm/adaptive_lm_gbw_huge.tar.bz2)\n`transformer_lm.wiki103.adaptive` | Adaptive Inputs
([Baevski and Auli, 2018](https://arxiv.org/abs/1809.10853))
247M params | [WikiText-103](https://einstein.ai/research/the-wikitext-long-term-dependency-language-modeling-dataset) | [download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/lm/adaptive_lm_wiki103.tar.bz2)\n`transformer_lm.wmt19.en` | English LM
([Ng et al., 2019](https://arxiv.org/abs/1907.06616)) | [WMT News Crawl](http://data.statmt.org/news-crawl/) | [download (.tar.gz)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/lm/wmt19.en.tar.gz)\n`transformer_lm.wmt19.de` | German LM
([Ng et al., 2019](https://arxiv.org/abs/1907.06616)) | [WMT News Crawl](http://data.statmt.org/news-crawl/) | [download (.tar.gz)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/lm/wmt19.de.tar.gz)\n`transformer_lm.wmt19.ru` | Russian LM
([Ng et al., 2019](https://arxiv.org/abs/1907.06616)) | [WMT News Crawl](http://data.statmt.org/news-crawl/) | [download (.tar.gz)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/lm/wmt19.ru.tar.gz)\n\n## Example usage\n\nWe require a few additional Python dependencies for preprocessing:\n```bash\npip install fastBPE sacremoses\n```\n\nTo sample from a language model using PyTorch Hub:\n```python\nimport torch\n\n# List available models\ntorch.hub.list('pytorch/fairseq') # [..., 'transformer_lm.wmt19.en', ...]\n\n# Load an English LM trained on WMT'19 News Crawl data\nen_lm = torch.hub.load('pytorch/fairseq', 'transformer_lm.wmt19.en', tokenizer='moses', bpe='fastbpe')\n\n# Sample from the language model\nen_lm.sample('Barack Obama', beam=1, sampling=True, sampling_topk=10, temperature=0.8)\n# \"Barack Obama is coming to Sydney and New Zealand (...)\"\n\n# The same interface can be used with custom models as well\nfrom fairseq.models.transformer_lm import TransformerLanguageModel\ncustom_lm = TransformerLanguageModel.from_pretrained('/path/to/model/dir', 'checkpoint100.pt', tokenizer='moses', bpe='fastbpe')\ncustom_lm.sample('Barack Obama', beam=5)\n# \"Barack Obama (...)\"\n```\n\n## Training a transformer language model with the CLI tools\n\n### 1) Preprocess the data\n\nFirst download and prepare the [WikiText-103 dataset](https://www.salesforce.com/products/einstein/ai-research/the-wikitext-dependency-language-modeling-dataset/):\n```bash\ncd examples/language_model/\nbash prepare-wikitext-103.sh\ncd ../..\n```\n\nNext preprocess/binarize the data:\n```bash\nTEXT=examples/language_model/wikitext-103\nfairseq-preprocess \\\n --only-source \\\n --trainpref $TEXT/wiki.train.tokens \\\n --validpref $TEXT/wiki.valid.tokens \\\n --testpref $TEXT/wiki.test.tokens \\\n --destdir data-bin/wikitext-103 \\\n --workers 20\n```\n\n### 2) Train a language model\n\nNext we'll train a transformer language model using [adaptive inputs](transformer_lm/README.md):\n```bash\nfairseq-train --task language_modeling \\\n data-bin/wikitext-103 \\\n --save-dir checkpoints/transformer_wikitext-103 \\\n --arch transformer_lm_wiki103 \\\n --max-update 286000 --max-lr 1.0 --t-mult 2 --lr-period-updates 270000 --lr-scheduler cosine --lr-shrink 0.75 \\\n --warmup-updates 16000 --warmup-init-lr 1e-07 --min-lr 1e-09 --optimizer nag --lr 0.0001 --clip-norm 0.1 \\\n --criterion adaptive_loss --max-tokens 3072 --update-freq 3 --tokens-per-sample 3072 --seed 1 \\\n --sample-break-mode none --skip-invalid-size-inputs-valid-test --ddp-backend=no_c10d\n```\n\nIf the above command runs out of memory, try reducing `--max-tokens` (max number\nof tokens per batch) or `--tokens-per-sample` (max sequence length). You can\nalso increase `--update-freq` to accumulate gradients and simulate training on\nmore GPUs.\n\n### 3) Evaluate\n```bash\nfairseq-eval-lm data-bin/wikitext-103 \\\n --path checkpoints/transformer_wiki103/checkpoint_best.pt \\\n --sample-break-mode complete --max-tokens 3072 \\\n --context-window 2560 --softmax-batch 1024\n```\n\n## Convolutional language models\n\nPlease see the [convolutional LM README](conv_lm/README.md) for instructions to\ntrain convolutional language models.\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/language_model/conv_lm/README.md", "content": "# Language Modeling with Gated Convolutional Networks (Dauphin et al., 2017)\n\n## Example usage\n\nFirst download and preprocess the data following the main [language modeling\nREADME](../README.md).\n\nThen to train a convolutional LM using the `fconv_lm_dauphin_wikitext103`\narchitecture:\n```bash\nfairseq-train --task language_modeling \\\n data-bin/wikitext-103 \\\n --save-dir checkpoints/fconv_wikitext-103 \\\n --arch fconv_lm_dauphin_wikitext103 \\\n --max-epoch 35 \\ --optimizer nag \\\n --lr 1.0 --lr-scheduler reduce_lr_on_plateau --lr-shrink 0.5 \\\n --clip-norm 0.1 --dropout 0.2 --weight-decay 5e-06 --criterion adaptive_loss \\\n --adaptive-softmax-cutoff 10000,20000,200000 --max-tokens 1024 --tokens-per-sample 1024 \\\n --ddp-backend=no_c10d\n```\n\nAnd evaluate with:\n```bash\nfairseq-eval-lm data-bin/wikitext-103 --path checkpoints/fconv_wiki103/checkpoint_best.pt\n```\n\n## Citation\n\n```bibtex\n@inproceedings{dauphin2017language,\n title={Language Modeling with Gated Convolutional Networks},\n author={Dauphin, Yann N and Fan, Angela and Auli, Michael and Grangier, David},\n booktitle={Proceedings of the 34th International Conference on Machine Learning-Volume 70},\n pages={933--941},\n year={2017},\n organization={JMLR}\n}\n```\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/language_model/prepare-wikitext-103.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n# Adapted from https://github.com/facebookresearch/MIXER/blob/master/prepareData.sh\n\nURLS=(\n \"https://s3.amazonaws.com/research.metamind.io/wikitext/wikitext-103-v1.zip\"\n)\nFILES=(\n \"wikitext-103-v1.zip\"\n)\n\nfor ((i=0;i<${#URLS[@]};++i)); do\n file=${FILES[i]}\n if [ -f $file ]; then\n echo \"$file already exists, skipping download\"\n else\n url=${URLS[i]}\n wget \"$url\"\n if [ -f $file ]; then\n echo \"$url successfully downloaded.\"\n else\n echo \"$url not successfully downloaded.\"\n exit -1\n fi\n if [ ${file: -4} == \".tgz\" ]; then\n tar zxvf $file\n elif [ ${file: -4} == \".tar\" ]; then\n tar xvf $file\n elif [ ${file: -4} == \".zip\" ]; then\n unzip $file\n fi\n fi\ndone\ncd ..\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/language_model/transformer_lm/README.md", "content": "# Adaptive Input Representations for Neural Language Modeling (Baevski and Auli, 2018)\n\n## Pre-trained models\n\nDescription | Parameters | Dataset | Model and Test set(s)\n---|---:|---|---\nAdaptive Inputs
([Baevski and Auli, 2018](https://arxiv.org/abs/1809.10853)) | 1026M | [Google Billion Words](https://github.com/ciprian-chelba/1-billion-word-language-modeling-benchmark) | [download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/lm/adaptive_lm_gbw_huge.bz2)\nAdaptive Inputs
([Baevski and Auli, 2018](https://arxiv.org/abs/1809.10853)) | 247M | [WikiText-103](https://einstein.ai/research/the-wikitext-long-term-dependency-language-modeling-dataset) | [download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/lm/adaptive_lm_wiki103.bz2)\n\n## Example usage\n\nSee the [language modeling README](../README.md) for instructions on reproducing results for WikiText-103\nusing the `transformer_lm_wiki103` model architecture.\n\n## Citation\n\n```bibtex\n@inproceedings{\n baevski2018adaptive,\n title={Adaptive Input Representations for Neural Language Modeling},\n author={Alexei Baevski and Michael Auli},\n booktitle={International Conference on Learning Representations},\n year={2019},\n url={https://openreview.net/forum?id=ByxZX20qFQ},\n}\n```\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/layerdrop/README.md", "content": "# Reducing Transformer Depth on Demand with Structured Dropout (Fan et al., 2019)\nThis page contains information for how to train models with LayerDrop.\n\nLooking for pretrained models? They will be added shortly.\n\nLooking for code for other forms of Structured Dropout? It will be added shortly.\n\n## Citation:\n```bibtex\n@article{fan2019reducing,\n title={Reducing Transformer Depth on Demand with Structured Dropout},\n author={Fan, Angela and Grave, Edouard and Joulin, Armand},\n journal={arXiv preprint arXiv:1909.11556},\n year={2019}\n}\n```\n\n## Example usage\n\nTo train a model with LayerDrop, add the following flags. We recommend 0.2, a value that worked well in our experiments. For Language Models that are decoder-only, you need only the decoder flag. For RoBERTa, an encoder, you need only the encoder flag. The encoder and decoder LayerDrop values can be set differently.\n```\n--encoder-layerdrop 0.2 --decoder-layerdrop 0.2\n```\n\nTo prune a model that has been trained with LayerDrop, add the following flags followed by a comma separated list of which layers you would like to keep.\n```\n--encoder-layers-to-keep 0,2,4,6,8,10,12,14 --decoder-layers-to-keep 0,2,4,6,8,10,12,14\n```\nSetting these flags should print a message such as:\n```\n| Pruning model to specified layer configuration\n```\nYou should also see a smaller number of parameters in the model, for example the 16-Layer Transformer Language Model prints:\n```\nnum. model params: 246933504\n```\nwhile a model pruned to 8 Layers prints:\n```\nnum. model params: 146163712\n```\n\nIf you would like to pick up training with a model that has been pruned, simply adding these flags is sufficient. If you would like to use a script that only does evaluation (no training), you may need to pass an override command. A specific example would be for language modeling:\n```\npython eval_lm.py /path/to/wikitext-103 --path '/path/to/model/checkpoint' --model-overrides \"{'decoder_layers_to_keep':'0,2,4,6,8,10,12,14'}\"\n```\nThis model override command overrides the training parameters and updates the model arguments so that the pruned model is run instead of the full model.\n\n\nLooking to reproduce the results in the paper?\n\n1. For Translation on WMT en-de, we followed this setting [here](https://github.com/pytorch/fairseq/blob/master/examples/scaling_nmt/README.md)\n2. To train RoBERTa, we followed this setting [here](https://github.com/pytorch/fairseq/tree/master/examples/roberta)\n3. To train Language Models on Wikitext-103, we followed this setting [here](https://github.com/pytorch/fairseq/tree/master/examples/language_model)\n\n\n## Tips\n\n1. If you would like to train large models with better performance, LayerDrop should be set to a smaller value such as 0.1 or 0.2. Too much LayerDrop will mean the model has too much regularization, so may not reach the best performance. Since LayerDrop adds regularization, you may achieve the best performance by slightly reducing the amount of standard dropout (for example, reduce by 0.1).\n\n2. If you would like to train large models to be pruned and made smaller, LayerDrop should be set to a larger value such as 0.5 if you want to prune very aggressively (such as removing half the network or more). If you would like to prune fewer layers away, LayerDrop can be set to a smaller value such as 0.2.\n\n3. When pruning layers at inference time, it is best to spread out the layers remaining so they are evenly spaced throughout the network. For example, if you want to remove 50% of the network, keeping every other layer is good.\n\n## Having an issue or have a question?\n\nPlease open an issue in this repository with the details of your question. Thanks!\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/noisychannel/README.md", "content": "# Simple and Effective Noisy Channel Modeling for Neural Machine Translation (Yee et al., 2019)\nThis page contains pointers to pre-trained models as well as instructions on how to run the reranking scripts.\n\n## Citation:\n```bibtex\n@inproceedings{yee2019simple,\n title = {Simple and Effective Noisy Channel Modeling for Neural Machine Translation},\n author = {Kyra Yee and Yann Dauphin and Michael Auli},\n booktitle = {Conference on Empirical Methods in Natural Language Processing},\n year = {2019},\n}\n```\n\n## Pre-trained Models:\n\nModel | Description | Download\n---|---|---\n`transformer.noisychannel.de-en` | De->En Forward Model | [download (.tar.gz)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/noisychannel/forward_de2en.tar.bz2)\n`transformer.noisychannel.en-de` | En->De Channel Model | [download (.tar.gz)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/noisychannel/backward_en2de.tar.bz2)\n`transformer_lm.noisychannel.en` | En Language model | [download (.tar.gz)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/noisychannel/reranking_en_lm.tar.bz2)\n\nTest Data: [newstest_wmt17](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/noisychannel/wmt17test.tar.bz2)\n\n## Example usage\n\n```\nmkdir rerank_example\ncurl https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/noisychannel/forward_de2en.tar.bz2 | tar xvjf - -C rerank_example\ncurl https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/noisychannel/backward_en2de.tar.bz2 | tar xvjf - -C rerank_example\ncurl https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/noisychannel/reranking_en_lm.tar.bz2 | tar xvjf - -C rerank_example\ncurl https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/noisychannel/wmt17test.tar.bz2 | tar xvjf - -C rerank_example\n\nbeam=50\nnum_trials=1000\nfw_name=fw_model_ex\nbw_name=bw_model_ex\nlm_name=lm_ex\ndata_dir=rerank_example/hyphen-splitting-mixed-case-wmt17test-wmt14bpe\ndata_dir_name=wmt17\nlm=rerank_example/lm/checkpoint_best.pt\nlm_bpe_code=rerank_example/lm/bpe32k.code\nlm_dict=rerank_example/lm/dict.txt\nbatch_size=32\nbw=rerank_example/backward_en2de.pt\nfw=rerank_example/forward_de2en.pt\n\n# reranking with P(T|S) P(S|T) and P(T)\npython examples/noisychannel/rerank_tune.py $data_dir --tune-param lenpen weight1 weight3 \\\n --lower-bound 0 0 0 --upper-bound 3 3 3 --data-dir-name $data_dir_name \\ \n --num-trials $num_trials --source-lang de --target-lang en --gen-model $fw \\\n -n $beam --batch-size $batch_size --score-model2 $fw --score-model1 $bw \\\n --backwards1 --weight2 1 \\\n -lm $lm --lm-dict $lm_dict --lm-name en_newscrawl --lm-bpe-code $lm_bpe_code \\\n --model2-name $fw_name --model1-name $bw_name --gen-model-name $fw_name\n\n# reranking with P(T|S) and P(T)\npython examples/noisychannel/rerank_tune.py $data_dir --tune-param lenpen weight3 \\\n --lower-bound 0 0 --upper-bound 3 3 --data-dir-name $data_dir_name \\\n --num-trials $num_trials --source-lang de --target-lang en --gen-model $fw \\\n -n $beam --batch-size $batch_size --score-model1 $fw \\\n -lm $lm --lm-dict $lm_dict --lm-name en_newscrawl --lm-bpe-code $lm_bpe_code \\\n --model1-name $fw_name --gen-model-name $fw_name\n\n# to run with a preconfigured set of hyperparameters for the lenpen and model weights, using rerank.py instead.\npython examples/noisychannel/rerank.py $data_dir \\\n --lenpen 0.269 --weight1 1 --weight2 0.929 --weight3 0.831 \\\n --data-dir-name $data_dir_name --source-lang de --target-lang en --gen-model $fw \\\n -n $beam --batch-size $batch_size --score-model2 $fw --score-model1 $bw --backwards1 \\\n -lm $lm --lm-dict $lm_dict --lm-name en_newscrawl --lm-bpe-code $lm_bpe_code \\\n --model2-name $fw_name --model1-name $bw_name --gen-model-name $fw_name\n```\n\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/noisychannel/__init__.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom .rerank_options import * # noqa\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/noisychannel/rerank.py", "content": "import rerank_utils\nimport rerank_generate\nimport rerank_score_bw\nimport rerank_score_lm\nfrom fairseq import bleu, options\nfrom fairseq.data import dictionary\nfrom examples.noisychannel import rerank_options\nfrom multiprocessing import Pool\n\nimport math\nimport numpy as np\n\n\ndef score_target_hypo(\n args, a, b, c, lenpen, target_outfile, hypo_outfile, write_hypos, normalize\n):\n\n print(\"lenpen\", lenpen, \"weight1\", a, \"weight2\", b, \"weight3\", c)\n gen_output_lst, bitext1_lst, bitext2_lst, lm_res_lst = load_score_files(args)\n dict = dictionary.Dictionary()\n scorer = bleu.Scorer(dict.pad(), dict.eos(), dict.unk())\n\n ordered_hypos = {}\n ordered_targets = {}\n\n for shard_id in range(len(bitext1_lst)):\n bitext1 = bitext1_lst[shard_id]\n bitext2 = bitext2_lst[shard_id]\n gen_output = gen_output_lst[shard_id]\n lm_res = lm_res_lst[shard_id]\n\n total = len(bitext1.rescore_source.keys())\n source_lst = []\n hypo_lst = []\n score_lst = []\n reference_lst = []\n j = 1\n best_score = -math.inf\n\n for i in range(total):\n # length is measured in terms of words, not bpe tokens, since models may not share the same bpe\n target_len = len(bitext1.rescore_hypo[i].split())\n\n if lm_res is not None:\n lm_score = lm_res.score[i]\n else:\n lm_score = 0\n\n if bitext2 is not None:\n bitext2_score = bitext2.rescore_score[i]\n bitext2_backwards = bitext2.backwards\n else:\n bitext2_score = None\n bitext2_backwards = None\n\n score = rerank_utils.get_score(\n a,\n b,\n c,\n target_len,\n bitext1.rescore_score[i],\n bitext2_score,\n lm_score=lm_score,\n lenpen=lenpen,\n src_len=bitext1.source_lengths[i],\n tgt_len=bitext1.target_lengths[i],\n bitext1_backwards=bitext1.backwards,\n bitext2_backwards=bitext2_backwards,\n normalize=normalize,\n )\n\n if score > best_score:\n best_score = score\n best_hypo = bitext1.rescore_hypo[i]\n\n if j == gen_output.num_hypos[i] or j == args.num_rescore:\n j = 1\n hypo_lst.append(best_hypo)\n score_lst.append(best_score)\n source_lst.append(bitext1.rescore_source[i])\n reference_lst.append(bitext1.rescore_target[i])\n\n best_score = -math.inf\n best_hypo = \"\"\n else:\n j += 1\n\n gen_keys = list(sorted(gen_output.no_bpe_target.keys()))\n\n for key in range(len(gen_keys)):\n if args.prefix_len is None:\n assert hypo_lst[key] in gen_output.no_bpe_hypo[gen_keys[key]], (\n \"pred and rescore hypo mismatch: i: \"\n + str(key)\n + \", \"\n + str(hypo_lst[key])\n + str(gen_keys[key])\n + str(gen_output.no_bpe_hypo[key])\n )\n sys_tok = dict.encode_line(hypo_lst[key])\n ref_tok = dict.encode_line(gen_output.no_bpe_target[gen_keys[key]])\n scorer.add(ref_tok, sys_tok)\n\n else:\n full_hypo = rerank_utils.get_full_from_prefix(\n hypo_lst[key], gen_output.no_bpe_hypo[gen_keys[key]]\n )\n sys_tok = dict.encode_line(full_hypo)\n ref_tok = dict.encode_line(gen_output.no_bpe_target[gen_keys[key]])\n scorer.add(ref_tok, sys_tok)\n\n # if only one set of hyper parameters is provided, write the predictions to a file\n if write_hypos:\n # recover the orinal ids from n best list generation\n for key in range(len(gen_output.no_bpe_target)):\n if args.prefix_len is None:\n assert hypo_lst[key] in gen_output.no_bpe_hypo[gen_keys[key]], (\n \"pred and rescore hypo mismatch:\"\n + \"i:\"\n + str(key)\n + str(hypo_lst[key])\n + str(gen_output.no_bpe_hypo[key])\n )\n ordered_hypos[gen_keys[key]] = hypo_lst[key]\n ordered_targets[gen_keys[key]] = gen_output.no_bpe_target[\n gen_keys[key]\n ]\n\n else:\n full_hypo = rerank_utils.get_full_from_prefix(\n hypo_lst[key], gen_output.no_bpe_hypo[gen_keys[key]]\n )\n ordered_hypos[gen_keys[key]] = full_hypo\n ordered_targets[gen_keys[key]] = gen_output.no_bpe_target[\n gen_keys[key]\n ]\n\n # write the hypos in the original order from nbest list generation\n if args.num_shards == (len(bitext1_lst)):\n with open(target_outfile, \"w\") as t:\n with open(hypo_outfile, \"w\") as h:\n for key in range(len(ordered_hypos)):\n t.write(ordered_targets[key])\n h.write(ordered_hypos[key])\n\n res = scorer.result_string(4)\n if write_hypos:\n print(res)\n score = rerank_utils.parse_bleu_scoring(res)\n return score\n\n\ndef match_target_hypo(args, target_outfile, hypo_outfile):\n \"\"\"combine scores from the LM and bitext models, and write the top scoring hypothesis to a file\"\"\"\n if len(args.weight1) == 1:\n res = score_target_hypo(\n args,\n args.weight1[0],\n args.weight2[0],\n args.weight3[0],\n args.lenpen[0],\n target_outfile,\n hypo_outfile,\n True,\n args.normalize,\n )\n rerank_scores = [res]\n else:\n print(\"launching pool\")\n with Pool(32) as p:\n rerank_scores = p.starmap(\n score_target_hypo,\n [\n (\n args,\n args.weight1[i],\n args.weight2[i],\n args.weight3[i],\n args.lenpen[i],\n target_outfile,\n hypo_outfile,\n False,\n args.normalize,\n )\n for i in range(len(args.weight1))\n ],\n )\n\n if len(rerank_scores) > 1:\n best_index = np.argmax(rerank_scores)\n best_score = rerank_scores[best_index]\n print(\"best score\", best_score)\n print(\"best lenpen\", args.lenpen[best_index])\n print(\"best weight1\", args.weight1[best_index])\n print(\"best weight2\", args.weight2[best_index])\n print(\"best weight3\", args.weight3[best_index])\n return (\n args.lenpen[best_index],\n args.weight1[best_index],\n args.weight2[best_index],\n args.weight3[best_index],\n best_score,\n )\n\n else:\n return (\n args.lenpen[0],\n args.weight1[0],\n args.weight2[0],\n args.weight3[0],\n rerank_scores[0],\n )\n\n\ndef load_score_files(args):\n if args.all_shards:\n shard_ids = list(range(args.num_shards))\n else:\n shard_ids = [args.shard_id]\n\n gen_output_lst = []\n bitext1_lst = []\n bitext2_lst = []\n lm_res1_lst = []\n\n for shard_id in shard_ids:\n using_nbest = args.nbest_list is not None\n (\n pre_gen,\n left_to_right_preprocessed_dir,\n right_to_left_preprocessed_dir,\n backwards_preprocessed_dir,\n lm_preprocessed_dir,\n ) = rerank_utils.get_directories(\n args.data_dir_name,\n args.num_rescore,\n args.gen_subset,\n args.gen_model_name,\n shard_id,\n args.num_shards,\n args.sampling,\n args.prefix_len,\n args.target_prefix_frac,\n args.source_prefix_frac,\n )\n\n rerank1_is_gen = (\n args.gen_model == args.score_model1 and args.source_prefix_frac is None\n )\n rerank2_is_gen = (\n args.gen_model == args.score_model2 and args.source_prefix_frac is None\n )\n\n score1_file = rerank_utils.rescore_file_name(\n pre_gen,\n args.prefix_len,\n args.model1_name,\n target_prefix_frac=args.target_prefix_frac,\n source_prefix_frac=args.source_prefix_frac,\n backwards=args.backwards1,\n )\n if args.score_model2 is not None:\n score2_file = rerank_utils.rescore_file_name(\n pre_gen,\n args.prefix_len,\n args.model2_name,\n target_prefix_frac=args.target_prefix_frac,\n source_prefix_frac=args.source_prefix_frac,\n backwards=args.backwards2,\n )\n if args.language_model is not None:\n lm_score_file = rerank_utils.rescore_file_name(\n pre_gen, args.prefix_len, args.lm_name, lm_file=True\n )\n\n # get gen output\n predictions_bpe_file = pre_gen + \"/generate_output_bpe.txt\"\n if using_nbest:\n print(\"Using predefined n-best list from interactive.py\")\n predictions_bpe_file = args.nbest_list\n gen_output = rerank_utils.BitextOutputFromGen(\n predictions_bpe_file,\n bpe_symbol=args.remove_bpe,\n nbest=using_nbest,\n prefix_len=args.prefix_len,\n target_prefix_frac=args.target_prefix_frac,\n )\n\n if rerank1_is_gen:\n bitext1 = gen_output\n else:\n bitext1 = rerank_utils.BitextOutput(\n score1_file,\n args.backwards1,\n args.right_to_left1,\n args.remove_bpe,\n args.prefix_len,\n args.target_prefix_frac,\n args.source_prefix_frac,\n )\n\n if args.score_model2 is not None or args.nbest_list is not None:\n if rerank2_is_gen:\n bitext2 = gen_output\n else:\n bitext2 = rerank_utils.BitextOutput(\n score2_file,\n args.backwards2,\n args.right_to_left2,\n args.remove_bpe,\n args.prefix_len,\n args.target_prefix_frac,\n args.source_prefix_frac,\n )\n\n assert (\n bitext2.source_lengths == bitext1.source_lengths\n ), \"source lengths for rescoring models do not match\"\n assert (\n bitext2.target_lengths == bitext1.target_lengths\n ), \"target lengths for rescoring models do not match\"\n else:\n if args.diff_bpe:\n assert args.score_model2 is None\n bitext2 = gen_output\n else:\n bitext2 = None\n\n if args.language_model is not None:\n lm_res1 = rerank_utils.LMOutput(\n lm_score_file,\n args.lm_dict,\n args.prefix_len,\n args.remove_bpe,\n args.target_prefix_frac,\n )\n else:\n lm_res1 = None\n\n gen_output_lst.append(gen_output)\n bitext1_lst.append(bitext1)\n bitext2_lst.append(bitext2)\n lm_res1_lst.append(lm_res1)\n return gen_output_lst, bitext1_lst, bitext2_lst, lm_res1_lst\n\n\ndef rerank(args):\n if type(args.lenpen) is not list:\n args.lenpen = [args.lenpen]\n if type(args.weight1) is not list:\n args.weight1 = [args.weight1]\n if type(args.weight2) is not list:\n args.weight2 = [args.weight2]\n if type(args.weight3) is not list:\n args.weight3 = [args.weight3]\n if args.all_shards:\n shard_ids = list(range(args.num_shards))\n else:\n shard_ids = [args.shard_id]\n\n for shard_id in shard_ids:\n (\n pre_gen,\n left_to_right_preprocessed_dir,\n right_to_left_preprocessed_dir,\n backwards_preprocessed_dir,\n lm_preprocessed_dir,\n ) = rerank_utils.get_directories(\n args.data_dir_name,\n args.num_rescore,\n args.gen_subset,\n args.gen_model_name,\n shard_id,\n args.num_shards,\n args.sampling,\n args.prefix_len,\n args.target_prefix_frac,\n args.source_prefix_frac,\n )\n rerank_generate.gen_and_reprocess_nbest(args)\n rerank_score_bw.score_bw(args)\n rerank_score_lm.score_lm(args)\n\n if args.write_hypos is None:\n write_targets = pre_gen + \"/matched_targets\"\n write_hypos = pre_gen + \"/matched_hypos\"\n else:\n write_targets = args.write_hypos + \"_targets\" + args.gen_subset\n write_hypos = args.write_hypos + \"_hypos\" + args.gen_subset\n\n if args.all_shards:\n write_targets += \"_all_shards\"\n write_hypos += \"_all_shards\"\n\n (\n best_lenpen,\n best_weight1,\n best_weight2,\n best_weight3,\n best_score,\n ) = match_target_hypo(args, write_targets, write_hypos)\n\n return best_lenpen, best_weight1, best_weight2, best_weight3, best_score\n\n\ndef cli_main():\n parser = rerank_options.get_reranking_parser()\n args = options.parse_args_and_arch(parser)\n rerank(args)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n cli_main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/noisychannel/rerank_generate.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3 -u\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\n\"\"\"\nGenerate n-best translations using a trained model.\n\"\"\"\n\nfrom contextlib import redirect_stdout\nimport os\nimport subprocess\n\nimport rerank_utils\nfrom examples.noisychannel import rerank_options\nfrom fairseq import options\nimport generate\nimport preprocess\n\n\ndef gen_and_reprocess_nbest(args):\n if args.score_dict_dir is None:\n args.score_dict_dir = args.data\n if args.prefix_len is not None:\n assert (\n args.right_to_left1 is False\n ), \"prefix length not compatible with right to left models\"\n assert (\n args.right_to_left2 is False\n ), \"prefix length not compatible with right to left models\"\n\n if args.nbest_list is not None:\n assert args.score_model2 is None\n\n if args.backwards1:\n scorer1_src = args.target_lang\n scorer1_tgt = args.source_lang\n else:\n scorer1_src = args.source_lang\n scorer1_tgt = args.target_lang\n\n store_data = (\n os.path.join(os.path.dirname(__file__)) + \"/rerank_data/\" + args.data_dir_name\n )\n if not os.path.exists(store_data):\n os.makedirs(store_data)\n\n (\n pre_gen,\n left_to_right_preprocessed_dir,\n right_to_left_preprocessed_dir,\n backwards_preprocessed_dir,\n lm_preprocessed_dir,\n ) = rerank_utils.get_directories(\n args.data_dir_name,\n args.num_rescore,\n args.gen_subset,\n args.gen_model_name,\n args.shard_id,\n args.num_shards,\n args.sampling,\n args.prefix_len,\n args.target_prefix_frac,\n args.source_prefix_frac,\n )\n assert not (\n args.right_to_left1 and args.backwards1\n ), \"backwards right to left not supported\"\n assert not (\n args.right_to_left2 and args.backwards2\n ), \"backwards right to left not supported\"\n assert not (\n args.prefix_len is not None and args.target_prefix_frac is not None\n ), \"target prefix frac and target prefix len incompatible\"\n\n # make directory to store generation results\n if not os.path.exists(pre_gen):\n os.makedirs(pre_gen)\n\n rerank1_is_gen = (\n args.gen_model == args.score_model1 and args.source_prefix_frac is None\n )\n rerank2_is_gen = (\n args.gen_model == args.score_model2 and args.source_prefix_frac is None\n )\n\n if args.nbest_list is not None:\n rerank2_is_gen = True\n\n # make directories to store preprossed nbest list for reranking\n if not os.path.exists(left_to_right_preprocessed_dir):\n os.makedirs(left_to_right_preprocessed_dir)\n if not os.path.exists(right_to_left_preprocessed_dir):\n os.makedirs(right_to_left_preprocessed_dir)\n if not os.path.exists(lm_preprocessed_dir):\n os.makedirs(lm_preprocessed_dir)\n if not os.path.exists(backwards_preprocessed_dir):\n os.makedirs(backwards_preprocessed_dir)\n\n score1_file = rerank_utils.rescore_file_name(\n pre_gen,\n args.prefix_len,\n args.model1_name,\n target_prefix_frac=args.target_prefix_frac,\n source_prefix_frac=args.source_prefix_frac,\n backwards=args.backwards1,\n )\n if args.score_model2 is not None:\n score2_file = rerank_utils.rescore_file_name(\n pre_gen,\n args.prefix_len,\n args.model2_name,\n target_prefix_frac=args.target_prefix_frac,\n source_prefix_frac=args.source_prefix_frac,\n backwards=args.backwards2,\n )\n\n predictions_bpe_file = pre_gen + \"/generate_output_bpe.txt\"\n\n using_nbest = args.nbest_list is not None\n\n if using_nbest:\n print(\"Using predefined n-best list from interactive.py\")\n predictions_bpe_file = args.nbest_list\n\n else:\n if not os.path.isfile(predictions_bpe_file):\n print(\"STEP 1: generate predictions using the p(T|S) model with bpe\")\n print(args.data)\n param1 = [\n args.data,\n \"--path\",\n args.gen_model,\n \"--shard-id\",\n str(args.shard_id),\n \"--num-shards\",\n str(args.num_shards),\n \"--nbest\",\n str(args.num_rescore),\n \"--batch-size\",\n str(args.batch_size),\n \"--beam\",\n str(args.num_rescore),\n \"--max-sentences\",\n str(args.num_rescore),\n \"--gen-subset\",\n args.gen_subset,\n \"--source-lang\",\n args.source_lang,\n \"--target-lang\",\n args.target_lang,\n ]\n if args.sampling:\n param1 += [\"--sampling\"]\n\n gen_parser = options.get_generation_parser()\n input_args = options.parse_args_and_arch(gen_parser, param1)\n\n print(input_args)\n with open(predictions_bpe_file, \"w\") as f:\n with redirect_stdout(f):\n generate.main(input_args)\n\n gen_output = rerank_utils.BitextOutputFromGen(\n predictions_bpe_file,\n bpe_symbol=args.remove_bpe,\n nbest=using_nbest,\n prefix_len=args.prefix_len,\n target_prefix_frac=args.target_prefix_frac,\n )\n\n if args.diff_bpe:\n rerank_utils.write_reprocessed(\n gen_output.no_bpe_source,\n gen_output.no_bpe_hypo,\n gen_output.no_bpe_target,\n pre_gen + \"/source_gen_bpe.\" + args.source_lang,\n pre_gen + \"/target_gen_bpe.\" + args.target_lang,\n pre_gen + \"/reference_gen_bpe.\" + args.target_lang,\n )\n bitext_bpe = args.rescore_bpe_code\n bpe_src_param = [\n \"-c\",\n bitext_bpe,\n \"--input\",\n pre_gen + \"/source_gen_bpe.\" + args.source_lang,\n \"--output\",\n pre_gen + \"/rescore_data.\" + args.source_lang,\n ]\n bpe_tgt_param = [\n \"-c\",\n bitext_bpe,\n \"--input\",\n pre_gen + \"/target_gen_bpe.\" + args.target_lang,\n \"--output\",\n pre_gen + \"/rescore_data.\" + args.target_lang,\n ]\n\n subprocess.call(\n [\n \"python\",\n os.path.join(\n os.path.dirname(__file__), \"subword-nmt/subword_nmt/apply_bpe.py\"\n ),\n ]\n + bpe_src_param,\n shell=False,\n )\n\n subprocess.call(\n [\n \"python\",\n os.path.join(\n os.path.dirname(__file__), \"subword-nmt/subword_nmt/apply_bpe.py\"\n ),\n ]\n + bpe_tgt_param,\n shell=False,\n )\n\n if (not os.path.isfile(score1_file) and not rerank1_is_gen) or (\n args.score_model2 is not None\n and not os.path.isfile(score2_file)\n and not rerank2_is_gen\n ):\n print(\n \"STEP 2: process the output of generate.py so we have clean text files with the translations\"\n )\n\n rescore_file = \"/rescore_data\"\n if args.prefix_len is not None:\n prefix_len_rescore_file = rescore_file + \"prefix\" + str(args.prefix_len)\n if args.target_prefix_frac is not None:\n target_prefix_frac_rescore_file = (\n rescore_file + \"target_prefix_frac\" + str(args.target_prefix_frac)\n )\n if args.source_prefix_frac is not None:\n source_prefix_frac_rescore_file = (\n rescore_file + \"source_prefix_frac\" + str(args.source_prefix_frac)\n )\n\n if not args.right_to_left1 or not args.right_to_left2:\n if not args.diff_bpe:\n rerank_utils.write_reprocessed(\n gen_output.source,\n gen_output.hypo,\n gen_output.target,\n pre_gen + rescore_file + \".\" + args.source_lang,\n pre_gen + rescore_file + \".\" + args.target_lang,\n pre_gen + \"/reference_file\",\n bpe_symbol=args.remove_bpe,\n )\n if args.prefix_len is not None:\n bw_rescore_file = prefix_len_rescore_file\n rerank_utils.write_reprocessed(\n gen_output.source,\n gen_output.hypo,\n gen_output.target,\n pre_gen + prefix_len_rescore_file + \".\" + args.source_lang,\n pre_gen + prefix_len_rescore_file + \".\" + args.target_lang,\n pre_gen + \"/reference_file\",\n prefix_len=args.prefix_len,\n bpe_symbol=args.remove_bpe,\n )\n elif args.target_prefix_frac is not None:\n bw_rescore_file = target_prefix_frac_rescore_file\n rerank_utils.write_reprocessed(\n gen_output.source,\n gen_output.hypo,\n gen_output.target,\n pre_gen\n + target_prefix_frac_rescore_file\n + \".\"\n + args.source_lang,\n pre_gen\n + target_prefix_frac_rescore_file\n + \".\"\n + args.target_lang,\n pre_gen + \"/reference_file\",\n bpe_symbol=args.remove_bpe,\n target_prefix_frac=args.target_prefix_frac,\n )\n else:\n bw_rescore_file = rescore_file\n\n if args.source_prefix_frac is not None:\n fw_rescore_file = source_prefix_frac_rescore_file\n rerank_utils.write_reprocessed(\n gen_output.source,\n gen_output.hypo,\n gen_output.target,\n pre_gen\n + source_prefix_frac_rescore_file\n + \".\"\n + args.source_lang,\n pre_gen\n + source_prefix_frac_rescore_file\n + \".\"\n + args.target_lang,\n pre_gen + \"/reference_file\",\n bpe_symbol=args.remove_bpe,\n source_prefix_frac=args.source_prefix_frac,\n )\n else:\n fw_rescore_file = rescore_file\n\n if args.right_to_left1 or args.right_to_left2:\n rerank_utils.write_reprocessed(\n gen_output.source,\n gen_output.hypo,\n gen_output.target,\n pre_gen + \"/right_to_left_rescore_data.\" + args.source_lang,\n pre_gen + \"/right_to_left_rescore_data.\" + args.target_lang,\n pre_gen + \"/right_to_left_reference_file\",\n right_to_left=True,\n bpe_symbol=args.remove_bpe,\n )\n\n print(\"STEP 3: binarize the translations\")\n if (\n not args.right_to_left1\n or args.score_model2 is not None\n and not args.right_to_left2\n or not rerank1_is_gen\n ):\n\n if args.backwards1 or args.backwards2:\n if args.backwards_score_dict_dir is not None:\n bw_dict = args.backwards_score_dict_dir\n else:\n bw_dict = args.score_dict_dir\n bw_preprocess_param = [\n \"--source-lang\",\n scorer1_src,\n \"--target-lang\",\n scorer1_tgt,\n \"--trainpref\",\n pre_gen + bw_rescore_file,\n \"--srcdict\",\n bw_dict + \"/dict.\" + scorer1_src + \".txt\",\n \"--tgtdict\",\n bw_dict + \"/dict.\" + scorer1_tgt + \".txt\",\n \"--destdir\",\n backwards_preprocessed_dir,\n ]\n preprocess_parser = options.get_preprocessing_parser()\n input_args = preprocess_parser.parse_args(bw_preprocess_param)\n preprocess.main(input_args)\n\n preprocess_param = [\n \"--source-lang\",\n scorer1_src,\n \"--target-lang\",\n scorer1_tgt,\n \"--trainpref\",\n pre_gen + fw_rescore_file,\n \"--srcdict\",\n args.score_dict_dir + \"/dict.\" + scorer1_src + \".txt\",\n \"--tgtdict\",\n args.score_dict_dir + \"/dict.\" + scorer1_tgt + \".txt\",\n \"--destdir\",\n left_to_right_preprocessed_dir,\n ]\n preprocess_parser = options.get_preprocessing_parser()\n input_args = preprocess_parser.parse_args(preprocess_param)\n preprocess.main(input_args)\n\n if args.right_to_left1 or args.right_to_left2:\n preprocess_param = [\n \"--source-lang\",\n scorer1_src,\n \"--target-lang\",\n scorer1_tgt,\n \"--trainpref\",\n pre_gen + \"/right_to_left_rescore_data\",\n \"--srcdict\",\n args.score_dict_dir + \"/dict.\" + scorer1_src + \".txt\",\n \"--tgtdict\",\n args.score_dict_dir + \"/dict.\" + scorer1_tgt + \".txt\",\n \"--destdir\",\n right_to_left_preprocessed_dir,\n ]\n preprocess_parser = options.get_preprocessing_parser()\n input_args = preprocess_parser.parse_args(preprocess_param)\n preprocess.main(input_args)\n\n return gen_output\n\n\ndef cli_main():\n parser = rerank_options.get_reranking_parser()\n args = options.parse_args_and_arch(parser)\n gen_and_reprocess_nbest(args)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n cli_main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/noisychannel/rerank_options.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom fairseq import options\n\n\ndef get_reranking_parser(default_task='translation'):\n parser = options.get_parser('Generation and reranking', default_task)\n add_reranking_args(parser)\n return parser\n\n\ndef get_tuning_parser(default_task='translation'):\n parser = options.get_parser('Reranking tuning', default_task)\n add_reranking_args(parser)\n add_tuning_args(parser)\n return parser\n\n\ndef add_reranking_args(parser):\n group = parser.add_argument_group(\"Reranking\")\n # fmt: off\n group.add_argument('--score-model1', '-s1', type=str, metavar='FILE', required=True,\n help='path to first model or ensemble of models for rescoring')\n group.add_argument('--score-model2', '-s2', type=str, metavar='FILE', required=False,\n help='path to second model or ensemble of models for rescoring')\n group.add_argument('--num-rescore', '-n', type=int, metavar='N', default=10,\n help='the number of candidate hypothesis to rescore')\n group.add_argument('-bz', '--batch-size', type=int, metavar='N', default=128,\n help='batch size for generating the nbest list')\n group.add_argument('--gen-subset', default='test', metavar='SET', choices=['test', 'train', 'valid'],\n help='data subset to generate (train, valid, test)')\n group.add_argument('--gen-model', default=None, metavar='FILE',\n help='the model to generate translations')\n group.add_argument('-b1', '--backwards1', action='store_true',\n help='whether or not the first model group is backwards')\n group.add_argument('-b2', '--backwards2', action='store_true',\n help='whether or not the second model group is backwards')\n group.add_argument('-a', '--weight1', default=1, nargs='+', type=float,\n help='the weight(s) of the first model')\n group.add_argument('-b', '--weight2', default=1, nargs='+', type=float,\n help='the weight(s) of the second model, or the gen model if using nbest from interactive.py')\n group.add_argument('-c', '--weight3', default=1, nargs='+', type=float,\n help='the weight(s) of the third model')\n\n # lm arguments\n group.add_argument('-lm', '--language-model', default=None, metavar='FILE',\n help='language model for target language to rescore translations')\n group.add_argument('--lm-dict', default=None, metavar='FILE',\n help='the dict of the language model for the target language')\n group.add_argument('--lm-name', default=None,\n help='the name of the language model for the target language')\n group.add_argument('--lm-bpe-code', default=None, metavar='FILE',\n help='the bpe code for the language model for the target language')\n group.add_argument('--data-dir-name', default=None,\n help='name of data directory')\n group.add_argument('--lenpen', default=1, nargs='+', type=float,\n help='length penalty: <1.0 favors shorter, >1.0 favors longer sentences')\n group.add_argument('--score-dict-dir', default=None,\n help='the directory with dictionaries for the scoring models')\n group.add_argument('--right-to-left1', action='store_true',\n help='whether the first model group is a right to left model')\n group.add_argument('--right-to-left2', action='store_true',\n help='whether the second model group is a right to left model')\n group.add_argument('--remove-bpe', default='@@ ',\n help='the bpe symbol, used for the bitext and LM')\n group.add_argument('--prefix-len', default=None, type=int,\n help='the length of the target prefix to use in rescoring (in terms of words wo bpe)')\n group.add_argument('--sampling', action='store_true',\n help='use sampling instead of beam search for generating n best list')\n group.add_argument('--diff-bpe', action='store_true',\n help='bpe for rescoring and nbest list not the same')\n group.add_argument('--rescore-bpe-code', default=None,\n help='bpe code for rescoring models')\n group.add_argument('--nbest-list', default=None,\n help='use predefined nbest list in interactive.py format')\n group.add_argument('--write-hypos', default=None,\n help='filename prefix to write hypos to')\n group.add_argument('--ref-translation', default=None,\n help='reference translation to use with nbest list from interactive.py')\n group.add_argument('--backwards-score-dict-dir', default=None,\n help='the directory with dictionaries for the backwards model,'\n 'if None then it is assumed the fw and backwards models share dictionaries')\n\n # extra scaling args\n group.add_argument('--gen-model-name', default=None,\n help='the name of the models that generated the nbest list')\n group.add_argument('--model1-name', default=None,\n help='the name of the set for model1 group ')\n group.add_argument('--model2-name', default=None,\n help='the name of the set for model2 group')\n group.add_argument('--shard-id', default=0, type=int,\n help='the id of the shard to generate')\n group.add_argument('--num-shards', default=1, type=int,\n help='the number of shards to generate across')\n group.add_argument('--all-shards', action='store_true',\n help='use all shards')\n group.add_argument('--target-prefix-frac', default=None, type=float,\n help='the fraction of the target prefix to use in rescoring (in terms of words wo bpe)')\n group.add_argument('--source-prefix-frac', default=None, type=float,\n help='the fraction of the source prefix to use in rescoring (in terms of words wo bpe)')\n group.add_argument('--normalize', action='store_true',\n help='whether to normalize by src and target len')\n\n return group\n\n\ndef add_tuning_args(parser):\n group = parser.add_argument_group(\"Tuning\")\n\n group.add_argument('--lower-bound', default=[-0.7], nargs='+', type=float,\n help='lower bound of search space')\n group.add_argument('--upper-bound', default=[3], nargs='+', type=float,\n help='upper bound of search space')\n group.add_argument('--tune-param', default=['lenpen'], nargs='+',\n choices=['lenpen', 'weight1', 'weight2', 'weight3'],\n help='the parameter(s) to tune')\n group.add_argument('--tune-subset', default='valid', choices=['valid', 'test', 'train'],\n help='the subset to tune on ')\n group.add_argument('--num-trials', default=1000, type=int,\n help='number of trials to do for random search')\n group.add_argument('--share-weights', action='store_true',\n help='share weight2 and weight 3')\n return group\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/noisychannel/rerank_score_bw.py", "content": "import rerank_utils\nimport os\nfrom fairseq import options\nfrom examples.noisychannel import rerank_options\nfrom contextlib import redirect_stdout\nimport generate\n\n\ndef score_bw(args):\n if args.backwards1:\n scorer1_src = args.target_lang\n scorer1_tgt = args.source_lang\n else:\n scorer1_src = args.source_lang\n scorer1_tgt = args.target_lang\n\n if args.score_model2 is not None:\n if args.backwards2:\n scorer2_src = args.target_lang\n scorer2_tgt = args.source_lang\n else:\n scorer2_src = args.source_lang\n scorer2_tgt = args.target_lang\n\n rerank1_is_gen = (\n args.gen_model == args.score_model1 and args.source_prefix_frac is None\n )\n rerank2_is_gen = (\n args.gen_model == args.score_model2 and args.source_prefix_frac is None\n )\n\n (\n pre_gen,\n left_to_right_preprocessed_dir,\n right_to_left_preprocessed_dir,\n backwards_preprocessed_dir,\n lm_preprocessed_dir,\n ) = rerank_utils.get_directories(\n args.data_dir_name,\n args.num_rescore,\n args.gen_subset,\n args.gen_model_name,\n args.shard_id,\n args.num_shards,\n args.sampling,\n args.prefix_len,\n args.target_prefix_frac,\n args.source_prefix_frac,\n )\n\n score1_file = rerank_utils.rescore_file_name(\n pre_gen,\n args.prefix_len,\n args.model1_name,\n target_prefix_frac=args.target_prefix_frac,\n source_prefix_frac=args.source_prefix_frac,\n backwards=args.backwards1,\n )\n\n if args.score_model2 is not None:\n score2_file = rerank_utils.rescore_file_name(\n pre_gen,\n args.prefix_len,\n args.model2_name,\n target_prefix_frac=args.target_prefix_frac,\n source_prefix_frac=args.source_prefix_frac,\n backwards=args.backwards2,\n )\n\n if args.right_to_left1:\n rerank_data1 = right_to_left_preprocessed_dir\n elif args.backwards1:\n rerank_data1 = backwards_preprocessed_dir\n else:\n rerank_data1 = left_to_right_preprocessed_dir\n\n gen_param = [\"--batch-size\", str(128), \"--score-reference\", \"--gen-subset\", \"train\"]\n if not rerank1_is_gen and not os.path.isfile(score1_file):\n print(\"STEP 4: score the translations for model 1\")\n\n model_param1 = [\n \"--path\",\n args.score_model1,\n \"--source-lang\",\n scorer1_src,\n \"--target-lang\",\n scorer1_tgt,\n ]\n gen_model1_param = [rerank_data1] + gen_param + model_param1\n\n gen_parser = options.get_generation_parser()\n input_args = options.parse_args_and_arch(gen_parser, gen_model1_param)\n\n with open(score1_file, \"w\") as f:\n with redirect_stdout(f):\n generate.main(input_args)\n\n if (\n args.score_model2 is not None\n and not os.path.isfile(score2_file)\n and not rerank2_is_gen\n ):\n print(\"STEP 4: score the translations for model 2\")\n\n if args.right_to_left2:\n rerank_data2 = right_to_left_preprocessed_dir\n elif args.backwards2:\n rerank_data2 = backwards_preprocessed_dir\n else:\n rerank_data2 = left_to_right_preprocessed_dir\n\n model_param2 = [\n \"--path\",\n args.score_model2,\n \"--source-lang\",\n scorer2_src,\n \"--target-lang\",\n scorer2_tgt,\n ]\n gen_model2_param = [rerank_data2] + gen_param + model_param2\n\n gen_parser = options.get_generation_parser()\n input_args = options.parse_args_and_arch(gen_parser, gen_model2_param)\n\n with open(score2_file, \"w\") as f:\n with redirect_stdout(f):\n generate.main(input_args)\n\n\ndef cli_main():\n parser = rerank_options.get_reranking_parser()\n args = options.parse_args_and_arch(parser)\n score_bw(args)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n cli_main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/noisychannel/rerank_score_lm.py", "content": "import rerank_utils\nimport os\nfrom fairseq import options\nfrom examples.noisychannel import rerank_options\n\n\ndef score_lm(args):\n using_nbest = args.nbest_list is not None\n (\n pre_gen,\n left_to_right_preprocessed_dir,\n right_to_left_preprocessed_dir,\n backwards_preprocessed_dir,\n lm_preprocessed_dir,\n ) = rerank_utils.get_directories(\n args.data_dir_name,\n args.num_rescore,\n args.gen_subset,\n args.gen_model_name,\n args.shard_id,\n args.num_shards,\n args.sampling,\n args.prefix_len,\n args.target_prefix_frac,\n args.source_prefix_frac,\n )\n\n predictions_bpe_file = pre_gen + \"/generate_output_bpe.txt\"\n if using_nbest:\n print(\"Using predefined n-best list from interactive.py\")\n predictions_bpe_file = args.nbest_list\n\n gen_output = rerank_utils.BitextOutputFromGen(\n predictions_bpe_file, bpe_symbol=args.remove_bpe, nbest=using_nbest\n )\n\n if args.language_model is not None:\n lm_score_file = rerank_utils.rescore_file_name(\n pre_gen, args.prefix_len, args.lm_name, lm_file=True\n )\n\n if args.language_model is not None and not os.path.isfile(lm_score_file):\n print(\"STEP 4.5: language modeling for P(T)\")\n if args.lm_bpe_code is None:\n bpe_status = \"no bpe\"\n elif args.lm_bpe_code == \"shared\":\n bpe_status = \"shared\"\n else:\n bpe_status = \"different\"\n\n rerank_utils.lm_scoring(\n lm_preprocessed_dir,\n bpe_status,\n gen_output,\n pre_gen,\n args.lm_dict,\n args.lm_name,\n args.language_model,\n args.lm_bpe_code,\n 128,\n lm_score_file,\n args.target_lang,\n args.source_lang,\n prefix_len=args.prefix_len,\n )\n\n\ndef cli_main():\n parser = rerank_options.get_reranking_parser()\n args = options.parse_args_and_arch(parser)\n score_lm(args)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n cli_main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/noisychannel/rerank_tune.py", "content": "import rerank\nimport argparse\nimport numpy as np\nimport random\nfrom examples.noisychannel import rerank_options\nfrom fairseq import options\n\n\ndef random_search(args):\n param_values = []\n tuneable_parameters = [\"lenpen\", \"weight1\", \"weight2\", \"weight3\"]\n initial_params = [args.lenpen, args.weight1, args.weight2, args.weight3]\n for i, elem in enumerate(initial_params):\n if type(elem) is not list:\n initial_params[i] = [elem]\n else:\n initial_params[i] = elem\n\n tune_parameters = args.tune_param.copy()\n for i in range(len(args.tune_param)):\n assert args.upper_bound[i] >= args.lower_bound[i]\n index = tuneable_parameters.index(args.tune_param[i])\n del tuneable_parameters[index]\n del initial_params[index]\n\n tune_parameters += tuneable_parameters\n param_values += initial_params\n random.seed(args.seed)\n\n random_params = np.array(\n [\n [\n random.uniform(args.lower_bound[i], args.upper_bound[i])\n for i in range(len(args.tune_param))\n ]\n for k in range(args.num_trials)\n ]\n )\n set_params = np.array(\n [\n [initial_params[i][0] for i in range(len(tuneable_parameters))]\n for k in range(args.num_trials)\n ]\n )\n random_params = np.concatenate((random_params, set_params), 1)\n\n rerank_args = vars(args).copy()\n if args.nbest_list:\n rerank_args[\"gen_subset\"] = \"test\"\n else:\n rerank_args[\"gen_subset\"] = args.tune_subset\n\n for k in range(len(tune_parameters)):\n rerank_args[tune_parameters[k]] = list(random_params[:, k])\n\n if args.share_weights:\n k = tune_parameters.index(\"weight2\")\n rerank_args[\"weight3\"] = list(random_params[:, k])\n\n rerank_args = argparse.Namespace(**rerank_args)\n best_lenpen, best_weight1, best_weight2, best_weight3, best_score = rerank.rerank(\n rerank_args\n )\n rerank_args = vars(args).copy()\n rerank_args[\"lenpen\"] = [best_lenpen]\n rerank_args[\"weight1\"] = [best_weight1]\n rerank_args[\"weight2\"] = [best_weight2]\n rerank_args[\"weight3\"] = [best_weight3]\n\n # write the hypothesis from the valid set from the best trial\n\n if args.gen_subset != \"valid\":\n rerank_args[\"gen_subset\"] = \"valid\"\n rerank_args = argparse.Namespace(**rerank_args)\n rerank.rerank(rerank_args)\n\n # test with the best hyperparameters on gen subset\n rerank_args = vars(args).copy()\n rerank_args[\"gen_subset\"] = args.gen_subset\n rerank_args[\"lenpen\"] = [best_lenpen]\n rerank_args[\"weight1\"] = [best_weight1]\n rerank_args[\"weight2\"] = [best_weight2]\n rerank_args[\"weight3\"] = [best_weight3]\n rerank_args = argparse.Namespace(**rerank_args)\n rerank.rerank(rerank_args)\n\n\ndef cli_main():\n parser = rerank_options.get_tuning_parser()\n args = options.parse_args_and_arch(parser)\n\n random_search(args)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n cli_main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/noisychannel/rerank_utils.py", "content": "import subprocess\nimport os\nimport re\nfrom fairseq import options\nimport eval_lm\nimport preprocess\nfrom contextlib import redirect_stdout\nimport math\n\n\ndef reprocess(fle):\n # takes in a file of generate.py translation generate_output\n # returns a source dict and hypothesis dict, where keys are the ID num (as a string)\n # and values and the corresponding source and translation. There may be several translations\n # per source, so the values for hypothesis_dict are lists.\n # parses output of generate.py\n\n with open(fle, \"r\") as f:\n txt = f.read()\n\n \"\"\"reprocess generate.py output\"\"\"\n p = re.compile(r\"[STHP][-]\\d+\\s*\")\n hp = re.compile(r\"(\\s*[-]?\\d+[.]?\\d+\\s*)|(\\s*(-inf)\\s*)\")\n source_dict = {}\n hypothesis_dict = {}\n score_dict = {}\n target_dict = {}\n pos_score_dict = {}\n lines = txt.split(\"\\n\")\n\n for line in lines:\n line += \"\\n\"\n prefix = re.search(p, line)\n if prefix is not None:\n assert len(prefix.group()) > 2, \"prefix id not found\"\n _, j = prefix.span()\n id_num = prefix.group()[2:]\n id_num = int(id_num)\n line_type = prefix.group()[0]\n if line_type == \"H\":\n h_txt = line[j:]\n hypo = re.search(hp, h_txt)\n assert (\n hypo is not None\n ), \"regular expression failed to find the hypothesis scoring\"\n _, i = hypo.span()\n score = hypo.group()\n if id_num in hypothesis_dict:\n hypothesis_dict[id_num].append(h_txt[i:])\n score_dict[id_num].append(float(score))\n else:\n hypothesis_dict[id_num] = [h_txt[i:]]\n score_dict[id_num] = [float(score)]\n\n elif line_type == \"S\":\n source_dict[id_num] = line[j:]\n elif line_type == \"T\":\n target_dict[id_num] = line[j:]\n elif line_type == \"P\":\n pos_scores = (line[j:]).split()\n pos_scores = [float(x) for x in pos_scores]\n if id_num in pos_score_dict:\n pos_score_dict[id_num].append(pos_scores)\n else:\n pos_score_dict[id_num] = [pos_scores]\n\n return source_dict, hypothesis_dict, score_dict, target_dict, pos_score_dict\n\n\ndef reprocess_nbest(fle):\n \"\"\"reprocess interactive.py output\"\"\"\n with open(fle, \"r\") as f:\n txt = f.read()\n\n source_dict = {}\n hypothesis_dict = {}\n score_dict = {}\n target_dict = {}\n pos_score_dict = {}\n lines = txt.split(\"\\n\")\n\n hp = re.compile(r\"[-]?\\d+[.]?\\d+\")\n j = -1\n\n for _i, line in enumerate(lines):\n line += \"\\n\"\n line_type = line[0]\n\n if line_type == \"H\":\n hypo = re.search(hp, line)\n _, start_index = hypo.span()\n score = hypo.group()\n if j in score_dict:\n score_dict[j].append(float(score))\n hypothesis_dict[j].append(line[start_index:].strip(\"\\t\"))\n else:\n score_dict[j] = [float(score)]\n hypothesis_dict[j] = [line[start_index:].strip(\"\\t\")]\n elif line_type == \"O\":\n j += 1\n source_dict[j] = line[2:]\n # we don't have the targets for interactive.py\n target_dict[j] = \"filler\"\n\n elif line_type == \"P\":\n pos_scores = [float(pos_score) for pos_score in line.split()[1:]]\n if j in pos_score_dict:\n pos_score_dict[j].append(pos_scores)\n else:\n pos_score_dict[j] = [pos_scores]\n\n assert source_dict.keys() == hypothesis_dict.keys()\n assert source_dict.keys() == pos_score_dict.keys()\n assert source_dict.keys() == score_dict.keys()\n\n return source_dict, hypothesis_dict, score_dict, target_dict, pos_score_dict\n\n\ndef write_reprocessed(\n sources,\n hypos,\n targets,\n source_outfile,\n hypo_outfile,\n target_outfile,\n right_to_left=False,\n prefix_len=None,\n bpe_symbol=None,\n target_prefix_frac=None,\n source_prefix_frac=None,\n):\n\n \"\"\"writes nbest hypothesis for rescoring\"\"\"\n assert not (\n prefix_len is not None and target_prefix_frac is not None\n ), \"in writing reprocessed, only one type of prefix may be used\"\n assert not (\n prefix_len is not None and source_prefix_frac is not None\n ), \"in writing reprocessed, only one type of prefix may be used\"\n assert not (\n target_prefix_frac is not None and source_prefix_frac is not None\n ), \"in writing reprocessed, only one type of prefix may be used\"\n\n with open(source_outfile, \"w\") as source_file, open(\n hypo_outfile, \"w\"\n ) as hypo_file, open(target_outfile, \"w\") as target_file:\n\n assert len(sources) == len(hypos), \"sources and hypos list length mismatch\"\n if right_to_left:\n for i in range(len(sources)):\n for j in range(len(hypos[i])):\n if prefix_len is None:\n hypo_file.write(make_right_to_left(hypos[i][j]) + \"\\n\")\n else:\n raise NotImplementedError()\n source_file.write(make_right_to_left(sources[i]) + \"\\n\")\n target_file.write(make_right_to_left(targets[i]) + \"\\n\")\n else:\n for i in sorted(sources.keys()):\n for j in range(len(hypos[i])):\n if prefix_len is not None:\n shortened = (\n get_prefix_no_bpe(hypos[i][j], bpe_symbol, prefix_len)\n + \"\\n\"\n )\n hypo_file.write(shortened)\n source_file.write(sources[i])\n target_file.write(targets[i])\n elif target_prefix_frac is not None:\n num_words, shortened, num_bpe_tokens = calc_length_from_frac(\n hypos[i][j], target_prefix_frac, bpe_symbol\n )\n shortened += \"\\n\"\n hypo_file.write(shortened)\n source_file.write(sources[i])\n target_file.write(targets[i])\n elif source_prefix_frac is not None:\n num_words, shortened, num_bpe_tokensn = calc_length_from_frac(\n sources[i], source_prefix_frac, bpe_symbol\n )\n shortened += \"\\n\"\n hypo_file.write(hypos[i][j])\n source_file.write(shortened)\n target_file.write(targets[i])\n else:\n hypo_file.write(hypos[i][j])\n source_file.write(sources[i])\n target_file.write(targets[i])\n\n\ndef calc_length_from_frac(bpe_sentence, prefix_frac, bpe_symbol):\n # return number of words, (not bpe tokens) that we want\n no_bpe_sen = remove_bpe(bpe_sentence, bpe_symbol)\n len_sen = len(no_bpe_sen.split())\n\n num_words = math.ceil(len_sen * prefix_frac)\n prefix = get_prefix_no_bpe(bpe_sentence, bpe_symbol, num_words)\n num_bpe_tokens = len(prefix.split())\n return num_words, prefix, num_bpe_tokens\n\n\ndef get_prefix(sentence, prefix_len):\n \"\"\"assuming no bpe, gets the prefix of the sentence with prefix_len words\"\"\"\n tokens = sentence.strip(\"\\n\").split()\n if prefix_len >= len(tokens):\n return sentence.strip(\"\\n\")\n else:\n return \" \".join(tokens[:prefix_len])\n\n\ndef get_prefix_no_bpe(sentence, bpe_symbol, prefix_len):\n if bpe_symbol is None:\n return get_prefix(sentence, prefix_len)\n else:\n return \" \".join(get_prefix_from_len(sentence.split(), bpe_symbol, prefix_len))\n\n\ndef get_prefix_from_len(sentence, bpe_symbol, prefix_len):\n \"\"\"get the prefix of sentence with bpe, with prefix len in terms of words, not bpe tokens\"\"\"\n bpe_count = sum([bpe_symbol.strip(\" \") in t for t in sentence[:prefix_len]])\n if bpe_count == 0:\n return sentence[:prefix_len]\n else:\n return sentence[:prefix_len] + get_prefix_from_len(\n sentence[prefix_len:], bpe_symbol, bpe_count\n )\n\n\ndef get_num_bpe_tokens_from_len(sentence, bpe_symbol, prefix_len):\n \"\"\"given a prefix length in terms of words, return the number of bpe tokens\"\"\"\n prefix = get_prefix_no_bpe(sentence, bpe_symbol, prefix_len)\n assert len(remove_bpe(prefix, bpe_symbol).split()) <= prefix_len\n return len(prefix.split(\" \"))\n\n\ndef make_right_to_left(line):\n tokens = line.split()\n tokens.reverse()\n new_line = \" \".join(tokens)\n return new_line\n\n\ndef remove_bpe(line, bpe_symbol):\n line = line.replace(\"\\n\", \"\")\n line = (line + \" \").replace(bpe_symbol, \"\").rstrip()\n return line + (\"\\n\")\n\n\ndef remove_bpe_dict(pred_dict, bpe_symbol):\n new_dict = {}\n for i in pred_dict:\n if type(pred_dict[i]) == list:\n new_list = [remove_bpe(elem, bpe_symbol) for elem in pred_dict[i]]\n new_dict[i] = new_list\n else:\n new_dict[i] = remove_bpe(pred_dict[i], bpe_symbol)\n return new_dict\n\n\ndef parse_bleu_scoring(line):\n p = re.compile(r\"(BLEU4 = )\\d+[.]\\d+\")\n res = re.search(p, line)\n assert res is not None, line\n return float(res.group()[8:])\n\n\ndef get_full_from_prefix(hypo_prefix, hypos):\n \"\"\"given a hypo prefix, recover the first hypo from the list of complete hypos beginning with that prefix\"\"\"\n for hypo in hypos:\n hypo_prefix = hypo_prefix.strip(\"\\n\")\n len_prefix = len(hypo_prefix)\n if hypo[:len_prefix] == hypo_prefix:\n return hypo\n # no match found\n raise Exception()\n\n\ndef get_score(\n a,\n b,\n c,\n target_len,\n bitext_score1,\n bitext_score2=None,\n lm_score=None,\n lenpen=None,\n src_len=None,\n tgt_len=None,\n bitext1_backwards=False,\n bitext2_backwards=False,\n normalize=False,\n):\n if bitext1_backwards:\n bitext1_norm = src_len\n else:\n bitext1_norm = tgt_len\n if bitext_score2 is not None:\n if bitext2_backwards:\n bitext2_norm = src_len\n else:\n bitext2_norm = tgt_len\n else:\n bitext2_norm = 1\n bitext_score2 = 0\n if normalize:\n score = (\n a * bitext_score1 / bitext1_norm\n + b * bitext_score2 / bitext2_norm\n + c * lm_score / src_len\n )\n else:\n score = a * bitext_score1 + b * bitext_score2 + c * lm_score\n\n if lenpen is not None:\n score /= (target_len) ** float(lenpen)\n\n return score\n\n\nclass BitextOutput(object):\n def __init__(\n self,\n output_file,\n backwards,\n right_to_left,\n bpe_symbol,\n prefix_len=None,\n target_prefix_frac=None,\n source_prefix_frac=None,\n ):\n \"\"\"process output from rescoring\"\"\"\n source, hypo, score, target, pos_score = reprocess(output_file)\n if backwards:\n self.hypo_fracs = source_prefix_frac\n else:\n self.hypo_fracs = target_prefix_frac\n\n # remove length penalty so we can use raw scores\n score, num_bpe_tokens = get_score_from_pos(\n pos_score, prefix_len, hypo, bpe_symbol, self.hypo_fracs, backwards\n )\n source_lengths = {}\n target_lengths = {}\n\n assert hypo.keys() == source.keys(), \"key mismatch\"\n if backwards:\n tmp = hypo\n hypo = source\n source = tmp\n for i in source:\n # since we are reranking, there should only be one hypo per source sentence\n if backwards:\n len_src = len(source[i][0].split())\n # record length without \n if len_src == num_bpe_tokens[i][0] - 1:\n source_lengths[i] = num_bpe_tokens[i][0] - 1\n else:\n source_lengths[i] = num_bpe_tokens[i][0]\n\n target_lengths[i] = len(hypo[i].split())\n\n source[i] = remove_bpe(source[i][0], bpe_symbol)\n target[i] = remove_bpe(target[i], bpe_symbol)\n hypo[i] = remove_bpe(hypo[i], bpe_symbol)\n\n score[i] = float(score[i][0])\n pos_score[i] = pos_score[i][0]\n\n else:\n len_tgt = len(hypo[i][0].split())\n # record length without \n if len_tgt == num_bpe_tokens[i][0] - 1:\n target_lengths[i] = num_bpe_tokens[i][0] - 1\n else:\n target_lengths[i] = num_bpe_tokens[i][0]\n\n source_lengths[i] = len(source[i].split())\n\n if right_to_left:\n source[i] = remove_bpe(make_right_to_left(source[i]), bpe_symbol)\n target[i] = remove_bpe(make_right_to_left(target[i]), bpe_symbol)\n hypo[i] = remove_bpe(make_right_to_left(hypo[i][0]), bpe_symbol)\n score[i] = float(score[i][0])\n pos_score[i] = pos_score[i][0]\n else:\n assert (\n len(hypo[i]) == 1\n ), \"expected only one hypothesis per source sentence\"\n source[i] = remove_bpe(source[i], bpe_symbol)\n target[i] = remove_bpe(target[i], bpe_symbol)\n hypo[i] = remove_bpe(hypo[i][0], bpe_symbol)\n score[i] = float(score[i][0])\n pos_score[i] = pos_score[i][0]\n\n self.rescore_source = source\n self.rescore_hypo = hypo\n self.rescore_score = score\n self.rescore_target = target\n self.rescore_pos_score = pos_score\n self.backwards = backwards\n self.right_to_left = right_to_left\n self.target_lengths = target_lengths\n self.source_lengths = source_lengths\n\n\nclass BitextOutputFromGen(object):\n def __init__(\n self,\n predictions_bpe_file,\n bpe_symbol=None,\n nbest=False,\n prefix_len=None,\n target_prefix_frac=None,\n ):\n if nbest:\n (\n pred_source,\n pred_hypo,\n pred_score,\n pred_target,\n pred_pos_score,\n ) = reprocess_nbest(predictions_bpe_file)\n else:\n pred_source, pred_hypo, pred_score, pred_target, pred_pos_score = reprocess(\n predictions_bpe_file\n )\n\n assert len(pred_source) == len(pred_hypo)\n assert len(pred_source) == len(pred_score)\n assert len(pred_source) == len(pred_target)\n assert len(pred_source) == len(pred_pos_score)\n\n # remove length penalty so we can use raw scores\n pred_score, num_bpe_tokens = get_score_from_pos(\n pred_pos_score, prefix_len, pred_hypo, bpe_symbol, target_prefix_frac, False\n )\n\n self.source = pred_source\n self.target = pred_target\n self.score = pred_score\n self.pos_score = pred_pos_score\n self.hypo = pred_hypo\n self.target_lengths = {}\n self.source_lengths = {}\n\n self.no_bpe_source = remove_bpe_dict(pred_source.copy(), bpe_symbol)\n self.no_bpe_hypo = remove_bpe_dict(pred_hypo.copy(), bpe_symbol)\n self.no_bpe_target = remove_bpe_dict(pred_target.copy(), bpe_symbol)\n\n # indexes to match those from the rescoring models\n self.rescore_source = {}\n self.rescore_target = {}\n self.rescore_pos_score = {}\n self.rescore_hypo = {}\n self.rescore_score = {}\n self.num_hypos = {}\n self.backwards = False\n self.right_to_left = False\n\n index = 0\n\n for i in sorted(pred_source.keys()):\n for j in range(len(pred_hypo[i])):\n\n self.target_lengths[index] = len(self.hypo[i][j].split())\n self.source_lengths[index] = len(self.source[i].split())\n\n self.rescore_source[index] = self.no_bpe_source[i]\n self.rescore_target[index] = self.no_bpe_target[i]\n self.rescore_hypo[index] = self.no_bpe_hypo[i][j]\n self.rescore_score[index] = float(pred_score[i][j])\n self.rescore_pos_score[index] = pred_pos_score[i][j]\n self.num_hypos[index] = len(pred_hypo[i])\n index += 1\n\n\ndef get_score_from_pos(\n pos_score_dict, prefix_len, hypo_dict, bpe_symbol, hypo_frac, backwards\n):\n score_dict = {}\n num_bpe_tokens_dict = {}\n assert prefix_len is None or hypo_frac is None\n for key in pos_score_dict:\n score_dict[key] = []\n num_bpe_tokens_dict[key] = []\n for i in range(len(pos_score_dict[key])):\n if prefix_len is not None and not backwards:\n num_bpe_tokens = get_num_bpe_tokens_from_len(\n hypo_dict[key][i], bpe_symbol, prefix_len\n )\n score_dict[key].append(sum(pos_score_dict[key][i][:num_bpe_tokens]))\n num_bpe_tokens_dict[key].append(num_bpe_tokens)\n elif hypo_frac is not None:\n num_words, shortened, hypo_prefix_len = calc_length_from_frac(\n hypo_dict[key][i], hypo_frac, bpe_symbol\n )\n score_dict[key].append(sum(pos_score_dict[key][i][:hypo_prefix_len]))\n num_bpe_tokens_dict[key].append(hypo_prefix_len)\n else:\n score_dict[key].append(sum(pos_score_dict[key][i]))\n num_bpe_tokens_dict[key].append(len(pos_score_dict[key][i]))\n return score_dict, num_bpe_tokens_dict\n\n\nclass LMOutput(object):\n def __init__(\n self,\n lm_score_file,\n lm_dict=None,\n prefix_len=None,\n bpe_symbol=None,\n target_prefix_frac=None,\n ):\n (\n lm_sentences,\n lm_sen_scores,\n lm_sen_pos_scores,\n lm_no_bpe_sentences,\n lm_bpe_tokens,\n ) = parse_lm(\n lm_score_file,\n prefix_len=prefix_len,\n bpe_symbol=bpe_symbol,\n target_prefix_frac=target_prefix_frac,\n )\n\n self.sentences = lm_sentences\n self.score = lm_sen_scores\n self.pos_score = lm_sen_pos_scores\n self.lm_dict = lm_dict\n self.no_bpe_sentences = lm_no_bpe_sentences\n self.bpe_tokens = lm_bpe_tokens\n\n\ndef parse_lm(input_file, prefix_len=None, bpe_symbol=None, target_prefix_frac=None):\n \"\"\"parse output of eval_lm\"\"\"\n with open(input_file, \"r\") as f:\n text = f.readlines()\n text = text[7:]\n cleaned_text = text[:-2]\n\n sentences = {}\n sen_scores = {}\n sen_pos_scores = {}\n no_bpe_sentences = {}\n num_bpe_tokens_dict = {}\n for _i, line in enumerate(cleaned_text):\n tokens = line.split()\n if tokens[0].isdigit():\n line_id = int(tokens[0])\n scores = [float(x[1:-1]) for x in tokens[2::2]]\n sentences[line_id] = \" \".join(tokens[1::2][:-1]) + \"\\n\"\n if bpe_symbol is not None:\n # exclude symbol to match output from generate.py\n bpe_sen = \" \".join(tokens[1::2][:-1]) + \"\\n\"\n no_bpe_sen = remove_bpe(bpe_sen, bpe_symbol)\n no_bpe_sentences[line_id] = no_bpe_sen\n\n if prefix_len is not None:\n num_bpe_tokens = get_num_bpe_tokens_from_len(\n bpe_sen, bpe_symbol, prefix_len\n )\n sen_scores[line_id] = sum(scores[:num_bpe_tokens])\n num_bpe_tokens_dict[line_id] = num_bpe_tokens\n elif target_prefix_frac is not None:\n num_words, shortened, target_prefix_len = calc_length_from_frac(\n bpe_sen, target_prefix_frac, bpe_symbol\n )\n sen_scores[line_id] = sum(scores[:target_prefix_len])\n num_bpe_tokens_dict[line_id] = target_prefix_len\n else:\n sen_scores[line_id] = sum(scores)\n num_bpe_tokens_dict[line_id] = len(scores)\n\n sen_pos_scores[line_id] = scores\n\n return sentences, sen_scores, sen_pos_scores, no_bpe_sentences, num_bpe_tokens_dict\n\n\ndef get_directories(\n data_dir_name,\n num_rescore,\n gen_subset,\n fw_name,\n shard_id,\n num_shards,\n sampling=False,\n prefix_len=None,\n target_prefix_frac=None,\n source_prefix_frac=None,\n):\n nbest_file_id = (\n \"nbest_\"\n + str(num_rescore)\n + \"_subset_\"\n + gen_subset\n + \"_fw_name_\"\n + fw_name\n + \"_shard_\"\n + str(shard_id)\n + \"_of_\"\n + str(num_shards)\n )\n\n if sampling:\n nbest_file_id += \"_sampling\"\n\n # the directory containing all information for this nbest list\n pre_gen = (\n os.path.join(os.path.dirname(__file__))\n + \"/rerank_data/\"\n + data_dir_name\n + \"/\"\n + nbest_file_id\n )\n # the directory to store the preprocessed nbest list, for left to right rescoring\n left_to_right_preprocessed_dir = pre_gen + \"/left_to_right_preprocessed\"\n if source_prefix_frac is not None:\n left_to_right_preprocessed_dir = (\n left_to_right_preprocessed_dir + \"/prefix_frac\" + str(source_prefix_frac)\n )\n # the directory to store the preprocessed nbest list, for right to left rescoring\n right_to_left_preprocessed_dir = pre_gen + \"/right_to_left_preprocessed\"\n # the directory to store the preprocessed nbest list, for backwards rescoring\n backwards_preprocessed_dir = pre_gen + \"/backwards\"\n if target_prefix_frac is not None:\n backwards_preprocessed_dir = (\n backwards_preprocessed_dir + \"/prefix_frac\" + str(target_prefix_frac)\n )\n elif prefix_len is not None:\n backwards_preprocessed_dir = (\n backwards_preprocessed_dir + \"/prefix_\" + str(prefix_len)\n )\n\n # the directory to store the preprocessed nbest list, for rescoring with P(T)\n lm_preprocessed_dir = pre_gen + \"/lm_preprocessed\"\n\n return (\n pre_gen,\n left_to_right_preprocessed_dir,\n right_to_left_preprocessed_dir,\n backwards_preprocessed_dir,\n lm_preprocessed_dir,\n )\n\n\ndef lm_scoring(\n preprocess_directory,\n bpe_status,\n gen_output,\n pre_gen,\n cur_lm_dict,\n cur_lm_name,\n cur_language_model,\n cur_lm_bpe_code,\n batch_size,\n lm_score_file,\n target_lang,\n source_lang,\n prefix_len=None,\n):\n if prefix_len is not None:\n assert (\n bpe_status == \"different\"\n ), \"bpe status must be different to use prefix len\"\n if bpe_status == \"no bpe\":\n # run lm on output without bpe\n write_reprocessed(\n gen_output.no_bpe_source,\n gen_output.no_bpe_hypo,\n gen_output.no_bpe_target,\n pre_gen + \"/rescore_data_no_bpe.de\",\n pre_gen + \"/rescore_data_no_bpe.en\",\n pre_gen + \"/reference_file_no_bpe\",\n )\n\n preprocess_lm_param = [\n \"--only-source\",\n \"--trainpref\",\n pre_gen + \"/rescore_data_no_bpe.\" + target_lang,\n \"--srcdict\",\n cur_lm_dict,\n \"--destdir\",\n preprocess_directory,\n ]\n preprocess_parser = options.get_preprocessing_parser()\n input_args = preprocess_parser.parse_args(preprocess_lm_param)\n preprocess.main(input_args)\n\n eval_lm_param = [\n preprocess_directory,\n \"--path\",\n cur_language_model,\n \"--output-word-probs\",\n \"--batch-size\",\n str(batch_size),\n \"--max-tokens\",\n \"1024\",\n \"--sample-break-mode\",\n \"eos\",\n \"--gen-subset\",\n \"train\",\n ]\n\n eval_lm_parser = options.get_eval_lm_parser()\n input_args = options.parse_args_and_arch(eval_lm_parser, eval_lm_param)\n\n with open(lm_score_file, \"w\") as f:\n with redirect_stdout(f):\n eval_lm.main(input_args)\n\n elif bpe_status == \"shared\":\n preprocess_lm_param = [\n \"--only-source\",\n \"--trainpref\",\n pre_gen + \"/rescore_data.\" + target_lang,\n \"--srcdict\",\n cur_lm_dict,\n \"--destdir\",\n preprocess_directory,\n ]\n preprocess_parser = options.get_preprocessing_parser()\n input_args = preprocess_parser.parse_args(preprocess_lm_param)\n preprocess.main(input_args)\n\n eval_lm_param = [\n preprocess_directory,\n \"--path\",\n cur_language_model,\n \"--output-word-probs\",\n \"--batch-size\",\n str(batch_size),\n \"--sample-break-mode\",\n \"eos\",\n \"--gen-subset\",\n \"train\",\n ]\n\n eval_lm_parser = options.get_eval_lm_parser()\n input_args = options.parse_args_and_arch(eval_lm_parser, eval_lm_param)\n\n with open(lm_score_file, \"w\") as f:\n with redirect_stdout(f):\n eval_lm.main(input_args)\n\n elif bpe_status == \"different\":\n rescore_file = pre_gen + \"/rescore_data_no_bpe\"\n rescore_bpe = pre_gen + \"/rescore_data_new_bpe\"\n\n rescore_file += \".\"\n rescore_bpe += \".\"\n\n write_reprocessed(\n gen_output.no_bpe_source,\n gen_output.no_bpe_hypo,\n gen_output.no_bpe_target,\n rescore_file + source_lang,\n rescore_file + target_lang,\n pre_gen + \"/reference_file_no_bpe\",\n bpe_symbol=None,\n )\n\n # apply LM bpe to nbest list\n bpe_src_param = [\n \"-c\",\n cur_lm_bpe_code,\n \"--input\",\n rescore_file + target_lang,\n \"--output\",\n rescore_bpe + target_lang,\n ]\n subprocess.call(\n [\n \"python\",\n os.path.join(\n os.path.dirname(__file__), \"subword-nmt/subword_nmt/apply_bpe.py\"\n ),\n ]\n + bpe_src_param,\n shell=False,\n )\n # uncomment to use fastbpe instead of subword-nmt bpe\n # bpe_src_param = [rescore_bpe+target_lang, rescore_file+target_lang, cur_lm_bpe_code]\n # subprocess.call([\"/private/home/edunov/fastBPE/fast\", \"applybpe\"] + bpe_src_param, shell=False)\n\n preprocess_dir = preprocess_directory\n\n preprocess_lm_param = [\n \"--only-source\",\n \"--trainpref\",\n rescore_bpe + target_lang,\n \"--srcdict\",\n cur_lm_dict,\n \"--destdir\",\n preprocess_dir,\n ]\n preprocess_parser = options.get_preprocessing_parser()\n input_args = preprocess_parser.parse_args(preprocess_lm_param)\n preprocess.main(input_args)\n\n eval_lm_param = [\n preprocess_dir,\n \"--path\",\n cur_language_model,\n \"--output-word-probs\",\n \"--batch-size\",\n str(batch_size),\n \"--max-tokens\",\n \"1024\",\n \"--sample-break-mode\",\n \"eos\",\n \"--gen-subset\",\n \"train\",\n ]\n\n eval_lm_parser = options.get_eval_lm_parser()\n input_args = options.parse_args_and_arch(eval_lm_parser, eval_lm_param)\n\n with open(lm_score_file, \"w\") as f:\n with redirect_stdout(f):\n eval_lm.main(input_args)\n\n\ndef rescore_file_name(\n nbest_dir,\n prefix_len,\n scorer_name,\n lm_file=False,\n target_prefix_frac=None,\n source_prefix_frac=None,\n backwards=None,\n):\n if lm_file:\n score_file = nbest_dir + \"/lm_score_translations_model_\" + scorer_name + \".txt\"\n else:\n score_file = nbest_dir + \"/\" + scorer_name + \"_score_translations.txt\"\n if backwards:\n if prefix_len is not None:\n score_file += \"prefix_len\" + str(prefix_len)\n elif target_prefix_frac is not None:\n score_file += \"target_prefix_frac\" + str(target_prefix_frac)\n else:\n if source_prefix_frac is not None:\n score_file += \"source_prefix_frac\" + str(source_prefix_frac)\n return score_file\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/nonautoregressive_translation/README.md", "content": "# Non-autoregressive Neural Machine Translation (NAT)\n\nThis page mainly includes instructions for reproducing results from the paper\n* [Levenshtein Transformer (Gu et al., 2019)](https://arxiv.org/abs/1905.11006).\n\nWe also provided our own implementations for several popular non-autoregressive-based models as reference:
\n* [Non-Autoregressive Neural Machine Translation (Gu et al., 2017)](https://arxiv.org/abs/1711.02281)
\n* [Deterministic Non-Autoregressive Neural Sequence Modeling by Iterative Refinement (Lee et al. 2018)](https://arxiv.org/abs/1802.06901)
\n* [Insertion Transformer: Flexible Sequence Generation via Insertion Operations (Stern et al. 2019)](https://arxiv.org/abs/1902.03249)
\n* [Mask-Predict: Parallel Decoding of Conditional Masked Language Models (Ghazvininejad et al., 2019)](https://arxiv.org/abs/1904.09324v2)\n\n## Dataset\n\nFirst, follow the [instructions to download and preprocess the WMT'14 En-De dataset](../translation#prepare-wmt14en2desh).\nMake sure to learn a joint vocabulary by passing the `--joined-dictionary` option to `fairseq-preprocess`.\n\n### Knowledge Distillation\nFollowing [Gu et al. 2019](https://arxiv.org/abs/1905.11006), [knowledge distillation](https://arxiv.org/abs/1606.07947) from an autoregressive model can effectively simplify the training data distribution, which is sometimes essential for NAT-based models to learn good translations.\nThe easiest way of performing distillation is to follow the [instructions of training a standard transformer model](../translation) on the same data, and then decode the training set to produce a distillation dataset for NAT.\n\n### Download\nWe also provided the preprocessed [original](http://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/nat/original_dataset.zip) and [distillation](http://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/nat/distill_dataset.zip) datasets. Please build the binarized dataset on your own.\n\n\n## Train a model\n\nThen we can train a nonautoregressive model using the `translation_lev` task and a new criterion `nat_loss`.\nUse the `--noise` flag to specify the input noise used on the target sentences.\nIn default, we run the task for *Levenshtein Transformer*, with `--noise='random_delete'`. Full scripts to run other models can also be found [here](./scripts.md).\n\nThe following command will train a *Levenshtein Transformer* on the binarized dataset.\n\n```bash\nfairseq-train \\\n data-bin/wmt14_en_de_distill \\\n --save-dir checkpoints \\\n --ddp-backend=no_c10d \\\n --task translation_lev \\\n --criterion nat_loss \\\n --arch levenshtein_transformer \\\n --noise random_delete \\\n --share-all-embeddings \\\n --optimizer adam --adam-betas '(0.9,0.98)' \\\n --lr 0.0005 --lr-scheduler inverse_sqrt \\\n --min-lr '1e-09' --warmup-updates 10000 \\\n --warmup-init-lr '1e-07' --label-smoothing 0.1 \\\n --dropout 0.3 --weight-decay 0.01 \\\n --decoder-learned-pos \\\n --encoder-learned-pos \\\n --apply-bert-init \\\n --log-format 'simple' --log-interval 100 \\\n --fixed-validation-seed 7 \\\n --max-tokens 8000 \\\n --save-interval-updates 10000 \\\n --max-update 300000\n```\n\n## Translate\n\nOnce a model is trained, we can generate translations using an `iterative_refinement_generator` which will based on the model's initial output and iteratively read and greedily refine the translation until (1) the model predicts the same translations for two consecutive iterations; or (2) the generator reaches the maximum iterations (`--iter-decode-max-iter`). Use `--print-step` to check the actual # of iteration for each sentence.\n\nFor *Levenshtein Transformer*, it sometimes helps to apply a `--iter-decode-eos-penalty` (typically, 0~3) to penalize the model finishing generation too early and generating too short translations.\n\n\nFor example, to generate with `--iter-decode-max-iter=9`:\n```bash\nfairseq-generate \\\n data-bin/wmt14_en_de_distill \\\n --gen-subset test \\\n --task translation_lev \\\n --path checkpoints/checkpoint_best.pt \\\n --iter-decode-max-iter 9 \\\n --iter-decode-eos-penalty 0 \\\n --beam 1 --remove-bpe \\\n --print-step \\\n --batch-size 400\n```\nIn the end of the generation, we can see the tokenized BLEU score for the translation.\n\n\n## Citation\n\n```bibtex\n@article{gu2019levenshtein,\n title={Levenshtein Transformer},\n author={Gu, Jiatao and Wang, Changhan and Zhao, Jake},\n journal={arXiv preprint arXiv:1905.11006},\n year={2019}\n}\n```\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/nonautoregressive_translation/scripts.md", "content": "# Examples of Training scripts for Non-autoregressive Machine Translation models\n\n### Non-autoregressive Transformer (NAT, Gu et al., 2017)\nNote that we need to have an additional module to perform \"length prediction\" (`--length-loss-factor`) before generating the whole sequence.\n```bash\nfairseq-train \\\n data-bin/wmt14_en_de_distill \\\n --save-dir checkpoints \\\n --ddp-backend=no_c10d \\\n --task translation_lev \\\n --criterion nat_loss \\\n --arch nonautoregressive_transformer \\\n --noise full_mask \\\n --share-all-embeddings \\\n --optimizer adam --adam-betas '(0.9,0.98)' \\\n --lr 0.0005 --lr-scheduler inverse_sqrt \\\n --min-lr '1e-09' --warmup-updates 10000 \\\n --warmup-init-lr '1e-07' --label-smoothing 0.1 \\\n --dropout 0.3 --weight-decay 0.01 \\\n --decoder-learned-pos \\\n --encoder-learned-pos \\\n --pred-length-offset \\\n --length-loss-factor 0.1 \\\n --apply-bert-init \\\n --log-format 'simple' --log-interval 100 \\\n --fixed-validation-seed 7 \\\n --max-tokens 8000 \\\n --save-interval-updates 10000 \\\n --max-update 300000\n```\n\n### Non-autoregressive Transformer with Iterative Refinement (iNAT, Lee et al., 2018)\nNote that `--train-step` means how many iterations of refinement we used during training, and `--dae-ratio` controls the ratio of denoising auto-encoder training described in the original paper.\n```bash\nfairseq-train \\\n data-bin/wmt14_en_de_distill \\\n --save-dir checkpoints \\\n --ddp-backend=no_c10d \\\n --task translation_lev \\\n --criterion nat_loss \\\n --arch iterative_nonautoregressive_transformer \\\n --noise full_mask \\\n --share-all-embeddings \\\n --optimizer adam --adam-betas '(0.9,0.98)' \\\n --lr 0.0005 --lr-scheduler inverse_sqrt \\\n --min-lr '1e-09' --warmup-updates 10000 \\\n --warmup-init-lr '1e-07' --label-smoothing 0.1 \\\n --dropout 0.3 --weight-decay 0.01 \\\n --decoder-learned-pos \\\n --encoder-learned-pos \\\n --pred-length-offset \\\n --length-loss-factor 0.1 \\\n --train-step 4 \\\n --dae-ratio 0.5 \\\n --stochastic-approx \\\n --apply-bert-init \\\n --log-format 'simple' --log-interval 100 \\\n --fixed-validation-seed 7 \\\n --max-tokens 8000 \\\n --save-interval-updates 10000 \\\n --max-update 300000\n```\n\n### Insertion Transformer (InsT, Stern et al., 2019)\nNote that we need to specify the \"slot-loss\" (uniform or balanced tree) described in the original paper. Here we use `--label-tau` to control the temperature.\n\n```bash\nfairseq-train \\\n data-bin/wmt14_en_de_distill \\\n --save-dir checkpoints \\\n --ddp-backend=no_c10d \\\n --task translation_lev \\\n --criterion nat_loss \\\n --arch insertion_transformer \\\n --noise random_delete \\\n --share-all-embeddings \\\n --optimizer adam --adam-betas '(0.9,0.98)' \\\n --lr 0.0005 --lr-scheduler inverse_sqrt \\\n --min-lr '1e-09' --warmup-updates 10000 \\\n --warmup-init-lr '1e-07' --label-smoothing 0.1 \\\n --dropout 0.3 --weight-decay 0.01 \\\n --decoder-learned-pos \\\n --encoder-learned-pos \\\n --apply-bert-init \\\n --log-format 'simple' --log-interval 100 \\\n --fixed-validation-seed 7 \\\n --max-tokens 8000 \\\n --save-interval-updates 10000 \\\n --max-update 300000\n```\n\n\n### Mask Predict (CMLM, Ghazvininejad et al., 2019)\n```bash\nfairseq-train \\\n data-bin/wmt14_en_de_distill \\\n --save-dir checkpoints \\\n --ddp-backend=no_c10d \\\n --task translation_lev \\\n --criterion nat_loss \\\n --arch cmlm_transformer \\\n --noise random_mask \\\n --share-all-embeddings \\\n --optimizer adam --adam-betas '(0.9,0.98)' \\\n --lr 0.0005 --lr-scheduler inverse_sqrt \\\n --min-lr '1e-09' --warmup-updates 10000 \\\n --warmup-init-lr '1e-07' --label-smoothing 0.1 \\\n --dropout 0.3 --weight-decay 0.01 \\\n --decoder-learned-pos \\\n --encoder-learned-pos \\\n --apply-bert-init \\\n --log-format 'simple' --log-interval 100 \\\n --fixed-validation-seed 7 \\\n --max-tokens 8000 \\\n --save-interval-updates 10000 \\\n --max-update 300000\n```\n\n\n\n\n### Levenshtein Transformer (LevT, Gu et al., 2019)\n```bash\nfairseq-train \\\n data-bin/wmt14_en_de_distill \\\n --save-dir checkpoints \\\n --ddp-backend=no_c10d \\\n --task translation_lev \\\n --criterion nat_loss \\\n --arch levenshtein_transformer \\\n --noise random_delete \\\n --share-all-embeddings \\\n --optimizer adam --adam-betas '(0.9,0.98)' \\\n --lr 0.0005 --lr-scheduler inverse_sqrt \\\n --min-lr '1e-09' --warmup-updates 10000 \\\n --warmup-init-lr '1e-07' --label-smoothing 0.1 \\\n --dropout 0.3 --weight-decay 0.01 \\\n --decoder-learned-pos \\\n --encoder-learned-pos \\\n --apply-bert-init \\\n --log-format 'simple' --log-interval 100 \\\n --fixed-validation-seed 7 \\\n --max-tokens 8000 \\\n --save-interval-updates 10000 \\\n --max-update 300000\n```\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/pay_less_attention_paper/README.md", "content": "# Pay Less Attention with Lightweight and Dynamic Convolutions (Wu et al., 2019)\nThis page contains pointers to pre-trained models as well as instructions on how to train new models for [our paper](https://arxiv.org/abs/1901.10430)\n\n## Citation:\n```bibtex\n@inproceedings{wu2018pay,\n title = {Pay Less Attention with Lightweight and Dynamic Convolutions},\n author = {Felix Wu and Angela Fan and Alexei Baevski and Yann Dauphin and Michael Auli},\n booktitle = {International Conference on Learning Representations},\n year = {2019},\n url = {https://arxiv.org/abs/1901.10430},\n}\n```\n\n## Translation\n\n### Pre-trained models\nFor some datasets we release models without GLUs which are faster at inference.\n\nDescription | Dataset | Model | Test set(s)\n---|---|---|---\nLightConv (without GLUs) | [IWSLT14 German-English](https://wit3.fbk.eu/archive/2014-01/texts/de/en/de-en.tgz) | [download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/dynamicconv/iwslt14.de-en.lightconv.tar.bz2) | IWSLT14 test:
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/iwslt14.de-en.test.tar.bz2)\nDynamicConv (without GLUs) | [IWSLT14 German-English](https://wit3.fbk.eu/archive/2014-01/texts/de/en/de-en.tgz) | [download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/dynamicconv/iwslt14.de-en.dynamicconv.tar.bz2) | IWSLT14 test:
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/iwslt14.de-en.test.tar.bz2)\nLightConv (without GLUs) | [WMT16 English-German](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B_bZck-ksdkpM25jRUN2X2UxMm8) | [download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/dynamicconv/wmt16.en-de.joined-dict.lightconv.tar.bz2) | newstest2014 (shared vocab):
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/wmt16.en-de.joined-dict.newstest2014.tar.bz2)\nDynamicConv (without GLUs) | [WMT16 English-German](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B_bZck-ksdkpM25jRUN2X2UxMm8) | [download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/dynamicconv/wmt16.en-de.joined-dict.dynamicconv.tar.bz2) | newstest2014 (shared vocab):
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/wmt16.en-de.joined-dict.newstest2014.tar.bz2)\nLightConv | [WMT16 English-German](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B_bZck-ksdkpM25jRUN2X2UxMm8) | [download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/dynamicconv/wmt16.en-de.joined-dict.lightconv-glu.tar.bz2) | newstest2014 (shared vocab):
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/wmt16.en-de.joined-dict.newstest2014.tar.bz2)\nDynamicConv | [WMT16 English-German](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B_bZck-ksdkpM25jRUN2X2UxMm8) | [download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/dynamicconv/wmt16.en-de.joined-dict.dynamicconv-glu.tar.bz2) | newstest2014 (shared vocab):
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/wmt16.en-de.joined-dict.newstest2014.tar.bz2)\nLightConv | [WMT14 English-French](http://statmt.org/wmt14/translation-task.html#Download) | [download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/dynamicconv/wmt14.en-fr.joined-dict.lightconv-glu.tar.bz2) | newstest2014:
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/wmt14.en-fr.joined-dict.newstest2014.tar.bz2)\nDynamicConv | [WMT14 English-French](http://statmt.org/wmt14/translation-task.html#Download) | [download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/dynamicconv/wmt14.en-fr.joined-dict.dynamicconv-glu.tar.bz2) | newstest2014:
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/wmt14.en-fr.joined-dict.newstest2014.tar.bz2)\nLightConv | [WMT17 Chinese-English](http://statmt.org/wmt17/translation-task.html#Download) | [download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/dynamicconv/wmt17.zh-en.lightconv-glu.tar.bz2) | newstest2017:
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/wmt17.zh-en.newstest2017.tar.bz2)\nDynamicConv | [WMT17 Chinese-English](http://statmt.org/wmt17/translation-task.html#Download) | [download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/dynamicconv/wmt17.zh-en.dynamicconv-glu.tar.bz2) | newstest2017:
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/wmt17.zh-en.newstest2017.tar.bz2)\nLightConv (CUDA module) | [WMT17 English-German](http://statmt.org/wmt17/translation-task.html#Download) | [download (.tar.gz)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/dynamicconv/wmt17.en-de.joined-dict.transformer.light-conv-cuda-glu.tar.gz) | newstest2014 (shared vocab):
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/wmt16.en-de.joined-dict.newstest2014.tar.bz2)\nDynamicConv (CUDA module) | [WMT17 English-German](http://statmt.org/wmt17/translation-task.html#Download) | [download (.tar.gz)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/dynamicconv/wmt17.en-de.joined-dict.transformer.dynamic-conv-cuda-glu.tar.gz) | newstest2014:
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/wmt16.en-de.joined-dict.newstest2014.tar.bz2)\n\n### Memory-Efficient CUDA Kernels\n\nSince the PyTorch implementations of Light/Dynamic conv are quite memory intensive, we have developed CUDA kernels that implement the light and dynamic convolution operator in a memory-efficient and performant manner. For large sequence lengths, these kernels save about 50% memory compared to the PyTorch equivalent. \n\nTo install the kernels, use the commands below. Once installed, they will automatically be used in place of the PyTorch implementations whenever a light or dynamic convolution is used.\n\n```sh\n# to install lightconv\ncd fairseq/modules/lightconv_layer\npython cuda_function_gen.py\npython setup.py install\n\n# to install dynamicconv\ncd fairseq/modules/dynamicconv_layer\npython cuda_function_gen.py\npython setup.py install\n```\n\n### Preprocessing the training datasets\n\nPlease follow the instructions in [`examples/translation/README.md`](../translation/README.md) to preprocess the data.\n\n### Training and evaluation options:\nTo use the model without GLU, please set `--encoder-glu 0 --decoder-glu 0`.\nFor LightConv, please use `--encoder-conv-type lightweight --decoder-conv-type lightweight`, otherwise the default is DynamicConv.\nFor best BLEU results, lenpen may need to be manually tuned.\n\nTo use the CUDA kernels, first install the PyTorch modules using the commands\nabove. Once the CUDA modules are installed, they will automatically be used\ninstead of the PyTorch modules.\n\n### IWSLT14 De-En\nTraining and evaluating DynamicConv (without GLU) on a GPU:\n```sh\n# Training\nSAVE=\"save/dynamic_conv_iwslt\"\nmkdir -p $SAVE \nCUDA_VISIBLE_DEVICES=0 $(which fairseq-train) data-bin/iwslt14.tokenized.de-en \\\n --clip-norm 0 --optimizer adam --lr 0.0005 \\\n --source-lang de --target-lang en --max-tokens 4000 --no-progress-bar \\\n --log-interval 100 --min-lr '1e-09' --weight-decay 0.0001 \\\n --criterion label_smoothed_cross_entropy --label-smoothing 0.1 \\\n --lr-scheduler inverse_sqrt \\\n --ddp-backend=no_c10d \\\n --max-update 50000 --warmup-updates 4000 --warmup-init-lr '1e-07' \\\n --adam-betas '(0.9, 0.98)' --keep-last-epochs 10 \\\n -a lightconv_iwslt_de_en --save-dir $SAVE \\\n --dropout 0.3 --attention-dropout 0.1 --weight-dropout 0.1 \\\n --encoder-glu 0 --decoder-glu 0\npython scripts/average_checkpoints.py --inputs $SAVE \\\n --num-epoch-checkpoints 10 --output \"${SAVE}/checkpoint_last10_avg.pt\"\n\n# Evaluation\nCUDA_VISIBLE_DEVICES=0 fairseq-generate data-bin/iwslt14.tokenized.de-en --path \"${SAVE}/checkpoint_last10_avg.pt\" --batch-size 128 --beam 4 --remove-bpe --lenpen 1 --gen-subset test --quiet \n```\n\n### WMT16 En-De\nTraining and evaluating DynamicConv (with GLU) on WMT16 En-De using cosine scheduler on one machine with 8 V100 GPUs:\n```sh\n# Training\nSAVE=\"save/dynamic_conv_wmt16en2de\"\nmkdir -p $SAVE\npython -m torch.distributed.launch --nproc_per_node 8 $(which fairseq-train) \\\n data-bin/wmt16_en_de_bpe32k --fp16 --log-interval 100 --no-progress-bar \\\n --max-update 30000 --share-all-embeddings --optimizer adam \\\n --adam-betas '(0.9, 0.98)' --clip-norm 0.0 --weight-decay 0.0 \\\n --criterion label_smoothed_cross_entropy --label-smoothing 0.1 \\\n --min-lr 1e-09 --update-freq 16 --attention-dropout 0.1 --keep-last-epochs 10 \\\n --ddp-backend=no_c10d --max-tokens 3584 \\\n --lr-scheduler cosine --warmup-init-lr 1e-7 --warmup-updates 10000 \\\n --lr-shrink 1 --max-lr 0.001 --lr 1e-7 --min-lr 1e-9 --warmup-init-lr 1e-07 \\\n --t-mult 1 --lr-period-updates 20000 \\\n --arch lightconv_wmt_en_de_big --save-dir $SAVE \\\n --dropout 0.3 --attention-dropout 0.1 --weight-dropout 0.1 \\\n --encoder-glu 1 --decoder-glu 1\n\n# Evaluation\nCUDA_VISIBLE_DEVICES=0 fairseq-generate data-bin/wmt16.en-de.joined-dict.newstest2014 --path \"${SAVE}/checkpoint_best.pt\" --batch-size 128 --beam 5 --remove-bpe --lenpen 0.5 --gen-subset test > wmt16_gen.txt\nbash scripts/compound_split_bleu.sh wmt16_gen.txt\n```\n\n### WMT14 En-Fr\nTraining DynamicConv (with GLU) on WMT14 En-Fr using cosine scheduler on one machine with 8 V100 GPUs:\n```sh\n# Training\nSAVE=\"save/dynamic_conv_wmt14en2fr\"\nmkdir -p $SAVE\npython -m torch.distributed.launch --nproc_per_node 8 $(which fairseq-train) \\\n data-bin/wmt14_en_fr --fp16 --log-interval 100 --no-progress-bar \\\n --max-update 30000 --share-all-embeddings --optimizer adam \\\n --adam-betas '(0.9, 0.98)' --clip-norm 0.0 --weight-decay 0.0 \\\n --criterion label_smoothed_cross_entropy --label-smoothing 0.1 \\\n --min-lr 1e-09 --update-freq 16 --attention-dropout 0.1 --keep-last-epochs 10 \\\n --ddp-backend=no_c10d --max-tokens 3584 \\\n --lr-scheduler cosine --warmup-init-lr 1e-7 --warmup-updates 10000 \\\n --lr-shrink 1 --max-lr 0.001 --lr 1e-7 --min-lr 1e-9 --warmup-init-lr 1e-07 \\\n --t-mult 1 --lr-period-updates 70000 \\\n --arch lightconv_wmt_en_fr_big --save-dir $SAVE \\\n --dropout 0.1 --attention-dropout 0.1 --weight-dropout 0.1 \\\n --encoder-glu 1 --decoder-glu 1\n\n# Evaluation\nCUDA_VISIBLE_DEVICES=0 fairseq-generate data-bin/wmt14.en-fr.joined-dict.newstest2014 --path \"${SAVE}/checkpoint_best.pt\" --batch-size 128 --beam 5 --remove-bpe --lenpen 0.9 --gen-subset test\n```\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/roberta/README.custom_classification.md", "content": "# Finetuning RoBERTa on a custom classification task\n\nThis example shows how to finetune RoBERTa on the IMDB dataset, but should illustrate the process for most classification tasks.\n\n### 1) Get the data\n```bash\nwget http://ai.stanford.edu/~amaas/data/sentiment/aclImdb_v1.tar.gz\ntar zxvf aclImdb_v1.tar.gz\n```\n\n### 2) Format data\n`IMDB` data has one data-sample in each file, below python code-snippet converts it one file for train and valid each for ease of processing. \n```python\nimport argparse\nimport os\nimport random\nfrom glob import glob\n\nrandom.seed(0)\n\ndef main(args):\n for split in ['train', 'test']:\n samples = []\n for class_label in ['pos', 'neg']:\n fnames = glob(os.path.join(args.datadir, split, class_label) + '/*.txt')\n for fname in fnames:\n with open(fname) as fin:\n line = fin.readline()\n samples.append((line, 1 if class_label == 'pos' else 0))\n random.shuffle(samples)\n out_fname = 'train' if split == 'train' else 'dev'\n f1 = open(os.path.join(args.datadir, out_fname + '.input0'), 'w')\n f2 = open(os.path.join(args.datadir, out_fname + '.label'), 'w')\n for sample in samples:\n f1.write(sample[0] + '\\n')\n f2.write(str(sample[1]) + '\\n')\n f1.close()\n f2.close()\n\nif __name__ == '__main__':\n parser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n parser.add_argument('--datadir', default='aclImdb')\n args = parser.parse_args()\n main(args)\n```\n\n### 3) BPE Encode\nRun `multiprocessing_bpe_encoder`, you can also do this in previous step for each sample but that might be slower.\n```bash\n# Download encoder.json and vocab.bpe\nwget -N 'https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/gpt2_bpe/encoder.json'\nwget -N 'https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/gpt2_bpe/vocab.bpe'\n\nfor SPLIT in train dev; do\n python -m examples.roberta.multiprocessing_bpe_encoder \\\n --encoder-json encoder.json \\\n --vocab-bpe vocab.bpe \\\n --inputs \"aclImdb/$SPLIT.input0\" \\\n --outputs \"aclImdb/$SPLIT.input0.bpe\" \\\n --workers 60 \\\n --keep-empty\ndone\n```\n\n### 4) Preprocess data\n\n```bash\n# Download fairseq dictionary.\nwget -N 'https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/gpt2_bpe/dict.txt' \n\nfairseq-preprocess \\\n --only-source \\\n --trainpref \"aclImdb/train.input0.bpe\" \\\n --validpref \"aclImdb/dev.input0.bpe\" \\\n --destdir \"IMDB-bin/input0\" \\\n --workers 60 \\\n --srcdict dict.txt\n\nfairseq-preprocess \\\n --only-source \\\n --trainpref \"aclImdb/train.label\" \\\n --validpref \"aclImdb/dev.label\" \\\n --destdir \"IMDB-bin/label\" \\\n --workers 60\n\n```\n\n### 5) Run Training\n\n```bash\nTOTAL_NUM_UPDATES=7812 # 10 epochs through IMDB for bsz 32\nWARMUP_UPDATES=469 # 6 percent of the number of updates\nLR=1e-05 # Peak LR for polynomial LR scheduler.\nNUM_CLASSES=2\nMAX_SENTENCES=8 # Batch size.\nROBERTA_PATH=/path/to/roberta/model.pt\n\nCUDA_VISIBLE_DEVICES=0 python train.py IMDB-bin/ \\\n --restore-file $ROBERTA_PATH \\\n --max-positions 512 \\\n --max-sentences $MAX_SENTENCES \\\n --max-tokens 4400 \\\n --task sentence_prediction \\\n --reset-optimizer --reset-dataloader --reset-meters \\\n --required-batch-size-multiple 1 \\\n --init-token 0 --separator-token 2 \\\n --arch roberta_large \\\n --criterion sentence_prediction \\\n --num-classes $NUM_CLASSES \\\n --dropout 0.1 --attention-dropout 0.1 \\\n --weight-decay 0.1 --optimizer adam --adam-betas \"(0.9, 0.98)\" --adam-eps 1e-06 \\\n --clip-norm 0.0 \\\n --lr-scheduler polynomial_decay --lr $LR --total-num-update $TOTAL_NUM_UPDATES --warmup-updates $WARMUP_UPDATES \\\n --fp16 --fp16-init-scale 4 --threshold-loss-scale 1 --fp16-scale-window 128 \\\n --max-epoch 10 \\\n --best-checkpoint-metric accuracy --maximize-best-checkpoint-metric \\\n --truncate-sequence \\\n --find-unused-parameters \\\n --update-freq 4\n```\nAbove will train with effective batch-size of `32`, tested on one `Nvidia V100 32gb`.\nExpected `best-validation-accuracy` after `10` epochs is `~96.5%`.\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/roberta/README.glue.md", "content": "# Finetuning RoBERTa on GLUE tasks\n\n### 1) Download the data from GLUE website (https://gluebenchmark.com/tasks) using following commands:\n```bash\nwget https://gist.githubusercontent.com/W4ngatang/60c2bdb54d156a41194446737ce03e2e/raw/17b8dd0d724281ed7c3b2aeeda662b92809aadd5/download_glue_data.py\npython download_glue_data.py --data_dir glue_data --tasks all\n```\n\n### 2) Preprocess GLUE task data:\n```bash\n./examples/roberta/preprocess_GLUE_tasks.sh glue_data \n```\n`glue_task_name` is one of the following:\n`{ALL, QQP, MNLI, QNLI, MRPC, RTE, STS-B, SST-2, CoLA}`\nUse `ALL` for preprocessing all the glue tasks.\n\n### 3) Fine-tuning on GLUE task:\nExample fine-tuning cmd for `RTE` task\n```bash\nTOTAL_NUM_UPDATES=2036 # 10 epochs through RTE for bsz 16\nWARMUP_UPDATES=122 # 6 percent of the number of updates\nLR=2e-05 # Peak LR for polynomial LR scheduler.\nNUM_CLASSES=2\nMAX_SENTENCES=16 # Batch size.\nROBERTA_PATH=/path/to/roberta/model.pt\n\nCUDA_VISIBLE_DEVICES=0 python train.py RTE-bin/ \\\n --restore-file $ROBERTA_PATH \\\n --max-positions 512 \\\n --max-sentences $MAX_SENTENCES \\\n --max-tokens 4400 \\\n --task sentence_prediction \\\n --reset-optimizer --reset-dataloader --reset-meters \\\n --required-batch-size-multiple 1 \\\n --init-token 0 --separator-token 2 \\\n --arch roberta_large \\\n --criterion sentence_prediction \\\n --num-classes $NUM_CLASSES \\\n --dropout 0.1 --attention-dropout 0.1 \\\n --weight-decay 0.1 --optimizer adam --adam-betas \"(0.9, 0.98)\" --adam-eps 1e-06 \\\n --clip-norm 0.0 \\\n --lr-scheduler polynomial_decay --lr $LR --total-num-update $TOTAL_NUM_UPDATES --warmup-updates $WARMUP_UPDATES \\\n --fp16 --fp16-init-scale 4 --threshold-loss-scale 1 --fp16-scale-window 128 \\\n --max-epoch 10 \\\n --find-unused-parameters \\\n --best-checkpoint-metric accuracy --maximize-best-checkpoint-metric;\n```\n\nFor each of the GLUE task, you will need to use following cmd-line arguments:\n\nModel | MNLI | QNLI | QQP | RTE | SST-2 | MRPC | CoLA | STS-B\n---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---\n`--num-classes` | 3 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 1\n`--lr` | 1e-5 | 1e-5 | 1e-5 | 2e-5 | 1e-5 | 1e-5 | 1e-5 | 2e-5\n`--max-sentences` | 32 | 32 | 32 | 16 | 32 | 16 | 16 | 16\n`--total-num-update` | 123873 | 33112 | 113272 | 2036 | 20935 | 2296 | 5336 | 3598\n`--warmup-updates` | 7432 | 1986 | 28318 | 122 | 1256 | 137 | 320 | 214\n\nFor `STS-B` additionally add `--regression-target --best-checkpoint-metric loss` and remove `--maximize-best-checkpoint-metric`.\n\n**Note:**\n\na) `--total-num-updates` is used by `--polynomial_decay` scheduler and is calculated for `--max-epoch=10` and `--max-sentences=16/32` depending on the task.\n\nb) Above cmd-args and hyperparams are tested on one Nvidia `V100` GPU with `32gb` of memory for each task. Depending on the GPU memory resources available to you, you can use increase `--update-freq` and reduce `--max-sentences`.\n\nc) All the settings in above table are suggested settings based on our hyperparam search within a fixed search space (for careful comparison across models). You might be able to find better metrics with wider hyperparam search. \n\n### Inference on GLUE task\nAfter training the model as mentioned in previous step, you can perform inference with checkpoints in `checkpoints/` directory using following python code snippet:\n\n```python\nfrom fairseq.models.roberta import RobertaModel\n\nroberta = RobertaModel.from_pretrained(\n 'checkpoints/',\n checkpoint_file='checkpoint_best.pt',\n data_name_or_path='RTE-bin'\n)\n\nlabel_fn = lambda label: roberta.task.label_dictionary.string(\n [label + roberta.task.label_dictionary.nspecial]\n)\nncorrect, nsamples = 0, 0\nroberta.cuda()\nroberta.eval()\nwith open('glue_data/RTE/dev.tsv') as fin:\n fin.readline()\n for index, line in enumerate(fin):\n tokens = line.strip().split('\\t')\n sent1, sent2, target = tokens[1], tokens[2], tokens[3]\n tokens = roberta.encode(sent1, sent2)\n prediction = roberta.predict('sentence_classification_head', tokens).argmax().item()\n prediction_label = label_fn(prediction)\n ncorrect += int(prediction_label == target)\n nsamples += 1\nprint('| Accuracy: ', float(ncorrect)/float(nsamples))\n\n```\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/roberta/README.md", "content": "# RoBERTa: A Robustly Optimized BERT Pretraining Approach\n\nhttps://arxiv.org/abs/1907.11692\n\n## Introduction\n\nRoBERTa iterates on BERT's pretraining procedure, including training the model longer, with bigger batches over more data; removing the next sentence prediction objective; training on longer sequences; and dynamically changing the masking pattern applied to the training data. See the associated paper for more details.\n\n### What's New:\n\n- November 2019: French model (CamemBERT) is available [CamemBERT](https://github.com/pytorch/fairseq/tree/master/examples/camembert).\n- November 2019: Multilingual encoder (XLM-RoBERTa) is available [XLM-R](https://github.com/pytorch/fairseq/tree/master/examples/xlmr).\n- September 2019: TensorFlow and TPU support via the [transformers library](https://github.com/huggingface/transformers).\n- August 2019: RoBERTa is now supported in the [pytorch-transformers library](https://github.com/huggingface/pytorch-transformers).\n- August 2019: Added [tutorial for finetuning on WinoGrande](https://github.com/pytorch/fairseq/tree/master/examples/roberta/wsc#roberta-training-on-winogrande-dataset).\n- August 2019: Added [tutorial for pretraining RoBERTa using your own data](README.pretraining.md).\n\n## Pre-trained models\n\nModel | Description | # params | Download\n---|---|---|---\n`roberta.base` | RoBERTa using the BERT-base architecture | 125M | [roberta.base.tar.gz](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/roberta.base.tar.gz)\n`roberta.large` | RoBERTa using the BERT-large architecture | 355M | [roberta.large.tar.gz](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/roberta.large.tar.gz)\n`roberta.large.mnli` | `roberta.large` finetuned on [MNLI](http://www.nyu.edu/projects/bowman/multinli) | 355M | [roberta.large.mnli.tar.gz](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/roberta.large.mnli.tar.gz)\n`roberta.large.wsc` | `roberta.large` finetuned on [WSC](wsc/README.md) | 355M | [roberta.large.wsc.tar.gz](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/roberta.large.wsc.tar.gz)\n\n## Results\n\n**[GLUE (Wang et al., 2019)](https://gluebenchmark.com/)**\n_(dev set, single model, single-task finetuning)_\n\nModel | MNLI | QNLI | QQP | RTE | SST-2 | MRPC | CoLA | STS-B\n---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---\n`roberta.base` | 87.6 | 92.8 | 91.9 | 78.7 | 94.8 | 90.2 | 63.6 | 91.2\n`roberta.large` | 90.2 | 94.7 | 92.2 | 86.6 | 96.4 | 90.9 | 68.0 | 92.4\n`roberta.large.mnli` | 90.2 | - | - | - | - | - | - | -\n\n**[SuperGLUE (Wang et al., 2019)](https://super.gluebenchmark.com/)**\n_(dev set, single model, single-task finetuning)_\n\nModel | BoolQ | CB | COPA | MultiRC | RTE | WiC | WSC\n---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---\n`roberta.large` | 86.9 | 98.2 | 94.0 | 85.7 | 89.5 | 75.6 | -\n`roberta.large.wsc` | - | - | - | - | - | - | 91.3\n\n**[SQuAD (Rajpurkar et al., 2018)](https://rajpurkar.github.io/SQuAD-explorer/)**\n_(dev set, no additional data used)_\n\nModel | SQuAD 1.1 EM/F1 | SQuAD 2.0 EM/F1\n---|---|---\n`roberta.large` | 88.9/94.6 | 86.5/89.4\n\n**[RACE (Lai et al., 2017)](http://www.qizhexie.com/data/RACE_leaderboard.html)**\n_(test set)_\n\nModel | Accuracy | Middle | High\n---|---|---|---\n`roberta.large` | 83.2 | 86.5 | 81.3\n\n**[HellaSwag (Zellers et al., 2019)](https://rowanzellers.com/hellaswag/)**\n_(test set)_\n\nModel | Overall | In-domain | Zero-shot | ActivityNet | WikiHow\n---|---|---|---|---|---\n`roberta.large` | 85.2 | 87.3 | 83.1 | 74.6 | 90.9\n\n**[Commonsense QA (Talmor et al., 2019)](https://www.tau-nlp.org/commonsenseqa)**\n_(test set)_\n\nModel | Accuracy\n---|---\n`roberta.large` (single model) | 72.1\n`roberta.large` (ensemble) | 72.5\n\n**[Winogrande (Sakaguchi et al., 2019)](https://arxiv.org/abs/1907.10641)**\n_(test set)_\n\nModel | Accuracy\n---|---\n`roberta.large` | 78.1\n\n**[XNLI (Conneau et al., 2018)](https://arxiv.org/abs/1809.05053)**\n_(TRANSLATE-TEST)_\n\nModel | en | fr | es | de | el | bg | ru | tr | ar | vi | th | zh | hi | sw | ur\n---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---\n`roberta.large.mnli` | 91.3 | 82.91 | 84.27 | 81.24 | 81.74 | 83.13 | 78.28 | 76.79 | 76.64 | 74.17 | 74.05 | 77.5 | 70.9 | 66.65 | 66.81\n\n## Example usage\n\n##### Load RoBERTa from torch.hub (PyTorch >= 1.1):\n```python\nimport torch\nroberta = torch.hub.load('pytorch/fairseq', 'roberta.large')\nroberta.eval() # disable dropout (or leave in train mode to finetune)\n```\n\n##### Load RoBERTa (for PyTorch 1.0 or custom models):\n```python\n# Download roberta.large model\nwget https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/roberta.large.tar.gz\ntar -xzvf roberta.large.tar.gz\n\n# Load the model in fairseq\nfrom fairseq.models.roberta import RobertaModel\nroberta = RobertaModel.from_pretrained('/path/to/roberta.large', checkpoint_file='model.pt')\nroberta.eval() # disable dropout (or leave in train mode to finetune)\n```\n\n##### Apply Byte-Pair Encoding (BPE) to input text:\n```python\ntokens = roberta.encode('Hello world!')\nassert tokens.tolist() == [0, 31414, 232, 328, 2]\nroberta.decode(tokens) # 'Hello world!'\n```\n\n##### Extract features from RoBERTa:\n```python\n# Extract the last layer's features\nlast_layer_features = roberta.extract_features(tokens)\nassert last_layer_features.size() == torch.Size([1, 5, 1024])\n\n# Extract all layer's features (layer 0 is the embedding layer)\nall_layers = roberta.extract_features(tokens, return_all_hiddens=True)\nassert len(all_layers) == 25\nassert torch.all(all_layers[-1] == last_layer_features)\n```\n\n##### Use RoBERTa for sentence-pair classification tasks:\n```python\n# Download RoBERTa already finetuned for MNLI\nroberta = torch.hub.load('pytorch/fairseq', 'roberta.large.mnli')\nroberta.eval() # disable dropout for evaluation\n\n# Encode a pair of sentences and make a prediction\ntokens = roberta.encode('Roberta is a heavily optimized version of BERT.', 'Roberta is not very optimized.')\nroberta.predict('mnli', tokens).argmax() # 0: contradiction\n\n# Encode another pair of sentences\ntokens = roberta.encode('Roberta is a heavily optimized version of BERT.', 'Roberta is based on BERT.')\nroberta.predict('mnli', tokens).argmax() # 2: entailment\n```\n\n##### Register a new (randomly initialized) classification head:\n```python\nroberta.register_classification_head('new_task', num_classes=3)\nlogprobs = roberta.predict('new_task', tokens) # tensor([[-1.1050, -1.0672, -1.1245]], grad_fn=)\n```\n\n##### Batched prediction:\n```python\nimport torch\nfrom fairseq.data.data_utils import collate_tokens\n\nroberta = torch.hub.load('pytorch/fairseq', 'roberta.large.mnli')\nroberta.eval()\n\nbatch_of_pairs = [\n ['Roberta is a heavily optimized version of BERT.', 'Roberta is not very optimized.'],\n ['Roberta is a heavily optimized version of BERT.', 'Roberta is based on BERT.'],\n ['potatoes are awesome.', 'I like to run.'],\n ['Mars is very far from earth.', 'Mars is very close.'],\n]\n\nbatch = collate_tokens(\n [roberta.encode(pair[0], pair[1]) for pair in batch_of_pairs], pad_idx=1\n)\n\nlogprobs = roberta.predict('mnli', batch)\nprint(logprobs.argmax(dim=1))\n# tensor([0, 2, 1, 0])\n```\n\n##### Using the GPU:\n```python\nroberta.cuda()\nroberta.predict('new_task', tokens) # tensor([[-1.1050, -1.0672, -1.1245]], device='cuda:0', grad_fn=)\n```\n\n## Advanced usage\n\n#### Filling masks:\n\nRoBERTa can be used to fill `` tokens in the input. Some examples from the\n[Natural Questions dataset](https://ai.google.com/research/NaturalQuestions/):\n```python\nroberta.fill_mask('The first Star wars movie came out in ', topk=3)\n# [('The first Star wars movie came out in 1977', 0.9504708051681519, ' 1977'), ('The first Star wars movie came out in 1978', 0.009986862540245056, ' 1978'), ('The first Star wars movie came out in 1979', 0.009574787691235542, ' 1979')]\n\nroberta.fill_mask('Vikram samvat calender is official in ', topk=3)\n# [('Vikram samvat calender is official in India', 0.21878819167613983, ' India'), ('Vikram samvat calender is official in Delhi', 0.08547237515449524, ' Delhi'), ('Vikram samvat calender is official in Gujarat', 0.07556215673685074, ' Gujarat')]\n\nroberta.fill_mask(' is the common currency of the European Union', topk=3)\n# [('Euro is the common currency of the European Union', 0.9456493854522705, 'Euro'), ('euro is the common currency of the European Union', 0.025748178362846375, 'euro'), ('€ is the common currency of the European Union', 0.011183084920048714, '€')]\n```\n\n#### Pronoun disambiguation (Winograd Schema Challenge):\n\nRoBERTa can be used to disambiguate pronouns. First install spaCy and download the English-language model:\n```bash\npip install spacy\npython -m spacy download en_core_web_lg\n```\n\nNext load the `roberta.large.wsc` model and call the `disambiguate_pronoun`\nfunction. The pronoun should be surrounded by square brackets (`[]`) and the\nquery referent surrounded by underscores (`_`), or left blank to return the\npredicted candidate text directly:\n```python\nroberta = torch.hub.load('pytorch/fairseq', 'roberta.large.wsc', user_dir='examples/roberta/wsc')\nroberta.cuda() # use the GPU (optional)\n\nroberta.disambiguate_pronoun('The _trophy_ would not fit in the brown suitcase because [it] was too big.')\n# True\nroberta.disambiguate_pronoun('The trophy would not fit in the brown _suitcase_ because [it] was too big.')\n# False\n\nroberta.disambiguate_pronoun('The city councilmen refused the demonstrators a permit because [they] feared violence.')\n# 'The city councilmen'\nroberta.disambiguate_pronoun('The city councilmen refused the demonstrators a permit because [they] advocated violence.')\n# 'demonstrators'\n```\n\nSee the [RoBERTA Winograd Schema Challenge (WSC) README](wsc/README.md) for more details on how to train this model.\n\n#### Extract features aligned to words:\n\nBy default RoBERTa outputs one feature vector per BPE token. You can instead\nrealign the features to match [spaCy's word-level tokenization](https://spacy.io/usage/linguistic-features#tokenization)\nwith the `extract_features_aligned_to_words` method. This will compute a\nweighted average of the BPE-level features for each word and expose them in\nspaCy's `Token.vector` attribute:\n```python\ndoc = roberta.extract_features_aligned_to_words('I said, \"hello RoBERTa.\"')\nassert len(doc) == 10\nfor tok in doc:\n print('{:10}{} (...)'.format(str(tok), tok.vector[:5]))\n# tensor([-0.1316, -0.0386, -0.0832, -0.0477, 0.1943], grad_fn=) (...)\n# I tensor([ 0.0559, 0.1541, -0.4832, 0.0880, 0.0120], grad_fn=) (...)\n# said tensor([-0.1565, -0.0069, -0.8915, 0.0501, -0.0647], grad_fn=) (...)\n# , tensor([-0.1318, -0.0387, -0.0834, -0.0477, 0.1944], grad_fn=) (...)\n# \" tensor([-0.0486, 0.1818, -0.3946, -0.0553, 0.0981], grad_fn=) (...)\n# hello tensor([ 0.0079, 0.1799, -0.6204, -0.0777, -0.0923], grad_fn=) (...)\n# RoBERTa tensor([-0.2339, -0.1184, -0.7343, -0.0492, 0.5829], grad_fn=) (...)\n# . tensor([-0.1341, -0.1203, -0.1012, -0.0621, 0.1892], grad_fn=) (...)\n# \" tensor([-0.1341, -0.1203, -0.1012, -0.0621, 0.1892], grad_fn=) (...)\n# tensor([-0.0930, -0.0392, -0.0821, 0.0158, 0.0649], grad_fn=) (...)\n```\n\n#### Evaluating the `roberta.large.mnli` model:\n\nExample python code snippet to evaluate accuracy on the MNLI `dev_matched` set.\n```python\nlabel_map = {0: 'contradiction', 1: 'neutral', 2: 'entailment'}\nncorrect, nsamples = 0, 0\nroberta.cuda()\nroberta.eval()\nwith open('glue_data/MNLI/dev_matched.tsv') as fin:\n fin.readline()\n for index, line in enumerate(fin):\n tokens = line.strip().split('\\t')\n sent1, sent2, target = tokens[8], tokens[9], tokens[-1]\n tokens = roberta.encode(sent1, sent2)\n prediction = roberta.predict('mnli', tokens).argmax().item()\n prediction_label = label_map[prediction]\n ncorrect += int(prediction_label == target)\n nsamples += 1\nprint('| Accuracy: ', float(ncorrect)/float(nsamples))\n# Expected output: 0.9060\n```\n\n## Finetuning\n\n- [Finetuning on GLUE](README.glue.md)\n- [Finetuning on custom classification tasks (e.g., IMDB)](README.custom_classification.md)\n- [Finetuning on Winograd Schema Challenge (WSC)](wsc/README.md)\n- [Finetuning on Commonsense QA (CQA)](commonsense_qa/README.md)\n- Finetuning on SQuAD: coming soon\n\n## Pretraining using your own data\n\nSee the [tutorial for pretraining RoBERTa using your own data](README.pretraining.md).\n\n## Citation\n\n```bibtex\n@article{liu2019roberta,\n title = {RoBERTa: A Robustly Optimized BERT Pretraining Approach},\n author = {Yinhan Liu and Myle Ott and Naman Goyal and Jingfei Du and\n Mandar Joshi and Danqi Chen and Omer Levy and Mike Lewis and\n Luke Zettlemoyer and Veselin Stoyanov},\n journal={arXiv preprint arXiv:1907.11692},\n year = {2019},\n}\n```\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/roberta/README.pretraining.md", "content": "# Pretraining RoBERTa using your own data\n\nThis tutorial will walk you through pretraining RoBERTa over your own data.\n\n### 1) Preprocess the data\n\nData should be preprocessed following the [language modeling format](/examples/language_model), i.e. each document should be separated by an empty line (only useful with `--sample-break-mode complete_doc`). Lines will be concatenated as a 1D text stream during training.\n\nWe'll use the [WikiText-103 dataset](https://www.salesforce.com/products/einstein/ai-research/the-wikitext-dependency-language-modeling-dataset/)\nto demonstrate how to preprocess raw text data with the GPT-2 BPE. Of course\nthis dataset is quite small, so the resulting pretrained model will perform\npoorly, but it gives the general idea.\n\nFirst download the dataset:\n```bash\nwget https://s3.amazonaws.com/research.metamind.io/wikitext/wikitext-103-raw-v1.zip\nunzip wikitext-103-raw-v1.zip\n```\n\nNext encode it with the GPT-2 BPE:\n```bash\nmkdir -p gpt2_bpe\nwget -O gpt2_bpe/encoder.json https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/gpt2_bpe/encoder.json\nwget -O gpt2_bpe/vocab.bpe https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/gpt2_bpe/vocab.bpe\nfor SPLIT in train valid test; do \\\n python -m examples.roberta.multiprocessing_bpe_encoder \\\n --encoder-json gpt2_bpe/encoder.json \\\n --vocab-bpe gpt2_bpe/vocab.bpe \\\n --inputs wikitext-103-raw/wiki.${SPLIT}.raw \\\n --outputs wikitext-103-raw/wiki.${SPLIT}.bpe \\\n --keep-empty \\\n --workers 60; \\\ndone\n```\n\nFinally preprocess/binarize the data using the GPT-2 fairseq dictionary:\n```bash\nwget -O gpt2_bpe/dict.txt https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/gpt2_bpe/dict.txt\nfairseq-preprocess \\\n --only-source \\\n --srcdict gpt2_bpe/dict.txt \\\n --trainpref wikitext-103-raw/wiki.train.bpe \\\n --validpref wikitext-103-raw/wiki.valid.bpe \\\n --testpref wikitext-103-raw/wiki.test.bpe \\\n --destdir data-bin/wikitext-103 \\\n --workers 60\n```\n\n### 2) Train RoBERTa base\n```bash\nTOTAL_UPDATES=125000 # Total number of training steps\nWARMUP_UPDATES=10000 # Warmup the learning rate over this many updates\nPEAK_LR=0.0005 # Peak learning rate, adjust as needed\nTOKENS_PER_SAMPLE=512 # Max sequence length\nMAX_POSITIONS=512 # Num. positional embeddings (usually same as above)\nMAX_SENTENCES=16 # Number of sequences per batch (batch size)\nUPDATE_FREQ=16 # Increase the batch size 16x\n\nDATA_DIR=data-bin/wikitext-103\n\nfairseq-train --fp16 $DATA_DIR \\\n --task masked_lm --criterion masked_lm \\\n --arch roberta_base --sample-break-mode complete --tokens-per-sample $TOKENS_PER_SAMPLE \\\n --optimizer adam --adam-betas '(0.9,0.98)' --adam-eps 1e-6 --clip-norm 0.0 \\\n --lr-scheduler polynomial_decay --lr $PEAK_LR --warmup-updates $WARMUP_UPDATES --total-num-update $TOTAL_UPDATES \\\n --dropout 0.1 --attention-dropout 0.1 --weight-decay 0.01 \\\n --max-sentences $MAX_SENTENCES --update-freq $UPDATE_FREQ \\\n --max-update $TOTAL_UPDATES --log-format simple --log-interval 1\n```\n\n**Note:** You can optionally resume training the released RoBERTa base model by\nadding `--restore-file /path/to/roberta.base/model.pt`.\n\n**Note:** The above command assumes training on 8x32GB V100 GPUs. Each GPU uses\na batch size of 16 sequences (`$MAX_SENTENCES`) and accumulates gradients to\nfurther increase the batch size by 16x (`$UPDATE_FREQ`), for a total batch size\nof 2048 sequences. If you have fewer GPUs or GPUs with less memory you may need\nto reduce `$MAX_SENTENCES` and increase `$UPDATE_FREQ` to compensate.\nAlternatively if you have more GPUs you can decrease `$UPDATE_FREQ` accordingly\nto increase training speed.\n\n**Note:** The learning rate and batch size are tightly connected and need to be\nadjusted together. We generally recommend increasing the learning rate as you\nincrease the batch size according to the following table (although it's also\ndataset dependent, so don't rely on the following values too closely):\n\nbatch size | peak learning rate\n---|---\n256 | 0.0001\n2048 | 0.0005\n8192 | 0.0007\n\n### 3) Load your pretrained model\n```python\nfrom fairseq.models.roberta import RobertaModel\nroberta = RobertaModel.from_pretrained('checkpoints', 'checkpoint_best.pt', 'path/to/data')\nassert isinstance(roberta.model, torch.nn.Module)\n```\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/roberta/README.race.md", "content": "# Finetuning RoBERTa on RACE tasks\n\n### 1) Download the data from RACE website (http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~glai1/data/race/)\n\n### 2) Preprocess RACE data:\n```bash\npython ./examples/roberta/preprocess_RACE.py --input-dir --output-dir \n./examples/roberta/preprocess_RACE.sh \n```\n\n### 3) Fine-tuning on RACE:\n\n```bash\nMAX_EPOCH=5 # Number of training epochs.\nLR=1e-05 # Peak LR for fixed LR scheduler.\nNUM_CLASSES=4\nMAX_SENTENCES=1 # Batch size per GPU.\nUPDATE_FREQ=8 # Accumulate gradients to simulate training on 8 GPUs.\nDATA_DIR=/path/to/race-output-dir\nROBERTA_PATH=/path/to/roberta/model.pt\n\nCUDA_VISIBLE_DEVICES=0,1 fairseq-train $DATA_DIR --ddp-backend=no_c10d \\\n --restore-file $ROBERTA_PATH \\\n --reset-optimizer --reset-dataloader --reset-meters \\\n --best-checkpoint-metric accuracy --maximize-best-checkpoint-metric \\\n --task sentence_ranking \\\n --num-classes $NUM_CLASSES \\\n --init-token 0 --separator-token 2 \\\n --max-option-length 128 \\\n --max-positions 512 \\\n --truncate-sequence \\\n --arch roberta_large \\\n --dropout 0.1 --attention-dropout 0.1 --weight-decay 0.01 \\\n --criterion sentence_ranking \\\n --optimizer adam --adam-betas '(0.9, 0.98)' --adam-eps 1e-06 \\\n --clip-norm 0.0 \\\n --lr-scheduler fixed --lr $LR \\\n --fp16 --fp16-init-scale 4 --threshold-loss-scale 1 --fp16-scale-window 128 \\\n --max-sentences $MAX_SENTENCES \\\n --required-batch-size-multiple 1 \\\n --update-freq $UPDATE_FREQ \\\n --max-epoch $MAX_EPOCH\n```\n\n**Note:**\n\na) As contexts in RACE are relatively long, we are using smaller batch size per GPU while increasing update-freq to achieve larger effective batch size.\n\nb) Above cmd-args and hyperparams are tested on one Nvidia `V100` GPU with `32gb` of memory for each task. Depending on the GPU memory resources available to you, you can use increase `--update-freq` and reduce `--max-sentences`.\n\nc) The setting in above command is based on our hyperparam search within a fixed search space (for careful comparison across models). You might be able to find better metrics with wider hyperparam search. \n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/roberta/commonsense_qa/README.md", "content": "# Finetuning RoBERTa on Commonsense QA\n\nWe follow a similar approach to [finetuning RACE](../README.race.md). Specifically\nfor each question we construct five inputs, one for each of the five candidate\nanswer choices. Each input is constructed by concatenating the question and\ncandidate answer. We then encode each input and pass the resulting \"[CLS]\"\nrepresentations through a fully-connected layer to predict the correct answer.\nWe train with a standard cross-entropy loss.\n\nWe also found it helpful to prepend a prefix of `Q:` to the question and `A:` to\nthe answer. The complete input format is:\n```\n Q: Where would I not want a fox? A: hen house \n```\n\nOur final submission is based on a hyperparameter search over the learning rate\n(1e-5, 2e-5, 3e-5), batch size (8, 16), number of training steps (2000, 3000,\n4000) and random seed. We selected the model with the best performance on the\ndevelopment set after 100 trials.\n\n### 1) Download data from the Commonsense QA website (https://www.tau-nlp.org/commonsenseqa)\n```bash\nbash examples/roberta/commonsense_qa/download_cqa_data.sh\n```\n\n### 2) Finetune\n\n```bash\nMAX_UPDATES=3000 # Number of training steps.\nWARMUP_UPDATES=150 # Linearly increase LR over this many steps.\nLR=1e-05 # Peak LR for polynomial LR scheduler.\nMAX_SENTENCES=16 # Batch size.\nSEED=1 # Random seed.\nROBERTA_PATH=/path/to/roberta/model.pt\nDATA_DIR=data/CommonsenseQA\n\n# we use the --user-dir option to load the task from\n# the examples/roberta/commonsense_qa directory:\nFAIRSEQ_PATH=/path/to/fairseq\nFAIRSEQ_USER_DIR=${FAIRSEQ_PATH}/examples/roberta/commonsense_qa\n\nCUDA_VISIBLE_DEVICES=0 fairseq-train --fp16 --ddp-backend=no_c10d \\\n $DATA_DIR \\\n --user-dir $FAIRSEQ_USER_DIR \\\n --restore-file $ROBERTA_PATH \\\n --reset-optimizer --reset-dataloader --reset-meters \\\n --no-epoch-checkpoints --no-last-checkpoints --no-save-optimizer-state \\\n --best-checkpoint-metric accuracy --maximize-best-checkpoint-metric \\\n --task commonsense_qa --init-token 0 --bpe gpt2 \\\n --arch roberta_large --max-positions 512 \\\n --dropout 0.1 --attention-dropout 0.1 --weight-decay 0.01 \\\n --criterion sentence_ranking --num-classes 5 \\\n --optimizer adam --adam-betas '(0.9, 0.98)' --adam-eps 1e-06 --clip-norm 0.0 \\\n --lr-scheduler polynomial_decay --lr $LR \\\n --warmup-updates $WARMUP_UPDATES --total-num-update $MAX_UPDATES \\\n --max-sentences $MAX_SENTENCES \\\n --max-update $MAX_UPDATES \\\n --log-format simple --log-interval 25 \\\n --seed $SEED\n```\n\nThe above command assumes training on 1 GPU with 32GB of RAM. For GPUs with\nless memory, decrease `--max-sentences` and increase `--update-freq`\naccordingly to compensate.\n\n### 3) Evaluate\n```python\nimport json\nimport torch\nfrom fairseq.models.roberta import RobertaModel\nfrom examples.roberta import commonsense_qa # load the Commonsense QA task\nroberta = RobertaModel.from_pretrained('checkpoints', 'checkpoint_best.pt', 'data/CommonsenseQA')\nroberta.eval() # disable dropout\nroberta.cuda() # use the GPU (optional)\nnsamples, ncorrect = 0, 0\nwith open('data/CommonsenseQA/valid.jsonl') as h:\n for line in h:\n example = json.loads(line)\n scores = []\n for choice in example['question']['choices']:\n input = roberta.encode(\n 'Q: ' + example['question']['stem'],\n 'A: ' + choice['text'],\n no_separator=True\n )\n score = roberta.predict('sentence_classification_head', input, return_logits=True)\n scores.append(score)\n pred = torch.cat(scores).argmax()\n answer = ord(example['answerKey']) - ord('A')\n nsamples += 1\n if pred == answer:\n ncorrect += 1\n\nprint('Accuracy: ' + str(ncorrect / float(nsamples)))\n# Accuracy: 0.7846027846027847\n```\n\nThe above snippet is not batched, which makes it quite slow. See [instructions\nfor batched prediction with RoBERTa](https://github.com/pytorch/fairseq/tree/master/examples/roberta#batched-prediction).\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/roberta/commonsense_qa/__init__.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom . import commonsense_qa_task # noqa\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/roberta/commonsense_qa/commonsense_qa_task.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport json\nimport os\n\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\n\nfrom fairseq.data import (\n data_utils,\n Dictionary,\n encoders,\n IdDataset,\n ListDataset,\n NestedDictionaryDataset,\n NumSamplesDataset,\n NumelDataset,\n RawLabelDataset,\n RightPadDataset,\n SortDataset,\n)\nfrom fairseq.tasks import FairseqTask, register_task\n\n\n@register_task(\"commonsense_qa\")\nclass CommonsenseQATask(FairseqTask):\n \"\"\"Task to finetune RoBERTa for Commonsense QA.\"\"\"\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add task-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n parser.add_argument(\n \"data\", metavar=\"DIR\", help=\"path to data directory; we load .jsonl\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--init-token\",\n type=int,\n default=None,\n help=\"add token at the beginning of each batch item\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\"--num-classes\", type=int, default=5)\n\n def __init__(self, args, vocab):\n super().__init__(args)\n self.vocab = vocab\n self.mask = vocab.add_symbol(\"\")\n\n self.bpe = encoders.build_bpe(args)\n\n @classmethod\n def load_dictionary(cls, filename):\n \"\"\"Load the dictionary from the filename\n\n Args:\n filename (str): the filename\n \"\"\"\n dictionary = Dictionary.load(filename)\n dictionary.add_symbol(\"\")\n return dictionary\n\n @classmethod\n def setup_task(cls, args, **kwargs):\n assert (\n args.criterion == \"sentence_ranking\"\n ), \"Must set --criterion=sentence_ranking\"\n\n # load data and label dictionaries\n vocab = cls.load_dictionary(os.path.join(args.data, \"dict.txt\"))\n print(\"| dictionary: {} types\".format(len(vocab)))\n\n return cls(args, vocab)\n\n def load_dataset(\n self, split, epoch=0, combine=False, data_path=None, return_only=False, **kwargs\n ):\n \"\"\"Load a given dataset split.\n\n Args:\n split (str): name of the split (e.g., train, valid, test)\n \"\"\"\n\n def binarize(s, append_bos=False):\n if self.bpe is not None:\n s = self.bpe.encode(s)\n tokens = self.vocab.encode_line(\n s, append_eos=True, add_if_not_exist=False,\n ).long()\n if append_bos and self.args.init_token is not None:\n tokens = torch.cat([tokens.new([self.args.init_token]), tokens])\n return tokens\n\n if data_path is None:\n data_path = os.path.join(self.args.data, split + \".jsonl\")\n if not os.path.exists(data_path):\n raise FileNotFoundError(\"Cannot find data: {}\".format(data_path))\n\n src_tokens = [[] for i in range(self.args.num_classes)]\n src_lengths = [[] for i in range(self.args.num_classes)]\n labels = []\n\n with open(data_path) as h:\n for line in h:\n example = json.loads(line.strip())\n if \"answerKey\" in example:\n label = ord(example[\"answerKey\"]) - ord(\"A\")\n labels.append(label)\n question = example[\"question\"][\"stem\"]\n assert len(example[\"question\"][\"choices\"]) == self.args.num_classes\n # format: ` Q: Where would I not want a fox? A: hen house `\n question = \"Q: \" + question\n question_toks = binarize(question, append_bos=True)\n for i, choice in enumerate(example[\"question\"][\"choices\"]):\n src = \"A: \" + choice[\"text\"]\n src_bin = torch.cat([question_toks, binarize(src)])\n src_tokens[i].append(src_bin)\n src_lengths[i].append(len(src_bin))\n assert all(\n len(src_tokens[0]) == len(src_tokens[i])\n for i in range(self.args.num_classes)\n )\n assert len(src_tokens[0]) == len(src_lengths[0])\n assert len(labels) == 0 or len(labels) == len(src_tokens[0])\n\n for i in range(self.args.num_classes):\n src_lengths[i] = np.array(src_lengths[i])\n src_tokens[i] = ListDataset(src_tokens[i], src_lengths[i])\n src_lengths[i] = ListDataset(src_lengths[i])\n\n dataset = {\n \"id\": IdDataset(),\n \"nsentences\": NumSamplesDataset(),\n \"ntokens\": NumelDataset(src_tokens[0], reduce=True),\n }\n\n for i in range(self.args.num_classes):\n dataset.update(\n {\n \"net_input{}\".format(i + 1): {\n \"src_tokens\": RightPadDataset(\n src_tokens[i], pad_idx=self.source_dictionary.pad(),\n ),\n \"src_lengths\": src_lengths[i],\n }\n }\n )\n\n if len(labels) > 0:\n dataset.update({\"target\": RawLabelDataset(labels)})\n\n dataset = NestedDictionaryDataset(\n dataset,\n sizes=[np.maximum.reduce([src_token.sizes for src_token in src_tokens])],\n )\n\n with data_utils.numpy_seed(self.args.seed):\n dataset = SortDataset(\n dataset,\n # shuffle\n sort_order=[np.random.permutation(len(dataset))],\n )\n\n print(\"| Loaded {} with {} samples\".format(split, len(dataset)))\n\n self.datasets[split] = dataset\n return self.datasets[split]\n\n def build_model(self, args):\n from fairseq import models\n\n model = models.build_model(args, self)\n\n model.register_classification_head(\n \"sentence_classification_head\", num_classes=1,\n )\n\n return model\n\n @property\n def source_dictionary(self):\n return self.vocab\n\n @property\n def target_dictionary(self):\n return self.vocab\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/roberta/commonsense_qa/download_cqa_data.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nOUTDIR=data/CommonsenseQA\n\nmkdir -p $OUTDIR\n\nwget -O $OUTDIR/train.jsonl https://s3.amazonaws.com/commensenseqa/train_rand_split.jsonl\nwget -O $OUTDIR/valid.jsonl https://s3.amazonaws.com/commensenseqa/dev_rand_split.jsonl\nwget -O $OUTDIR/test.jsonl https://s3.amazonaws.com/commensenseqa/test_rand_split_no_answers.jsonl\nwget -O $OUTDIR/dict.txt https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/gpt2_bpe/dict.txt\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/roberta/multiprocessing_bpe_encoder.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n# All rights reserved.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport argparse\nimport contextlib\nimport sys\n\nfrom collections import Counter\nfrom multiprocessing import Pool\n\nfrom fairseq.data.encoders.gpt2_bpe import get_encoder\n\n\ndef main():\n \"\"\"\n Helper script to encode raw text with the GPT-2 BPE using multiple processes.\n\n The encoder.json and vocab.bpe files can be obtained here:\n - https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/gpt2_bpe/encoder.json\n - https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/gpt2_bpe/vocab.bpe\n \"\"\"\n parser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--encoder-json\", help=\"path to encoder.json\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--vocab-bpe\", type=str, help=\"path to vocab.bpe\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--inputs\", nargs=\"+\", default=[\"-\"], help=\"input files to filter/encode\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--outputs\", nargs=\"+\", default=[\"-\"], help=\"path to save encoded outputs\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--keep-empty\", action=\"store_true\", help=\"keep empty lines\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\"--workers\", type=int, default=20)\n args = parser.parse_args()\n\n assert len(args.inputs) == len(\n args.outputs\n ), \"number of input and output paths should match\"\n\n with contextlib.ExitStack() as stack:\n inputs = [\n stack.enter_context(open(input, \"r\", encoding=\"utf-8\"))\n if input != \"-\"\n else sys.stdin\n for input in args.inputs\n ]\n outputs = [\n stack.enter_context(open(output, \"w\", encoding=\"utf-8\"))\n if output != \"-\"\n else sys.stdout\n for output in args.outputs\n ]\n\n encoder = MultiprocessingEncoder(args)\n pool = Pool(args.workers, initializer=encoder.initializer)\n encoded_lines = pool.imap(encoder.encode_lines, zip(*inputs), 100)\n\n stats = Counter()\n for i, (filt, enc_lines) in enumerate(encoded_lines, start=1):\n if filt == \"PASS\":\n for enc_line, output_h in zip(enc_lines, outputs):\n print(enc_line, file=output_h)\n else:\n stats[\"num_filtered_\" + filt] += 1\n if i % 10000 == 0:\n print(\"processed {} lines\".format(i), file=sys.stderr)\n\n for k, v in stats.most_common():\n print(\"[{}] filtered {} lines\".format(k, v), file=sys.stderr)\n\n\nclass MultiprocessingEncoder(object):\n def __init__(self, args):\n self.args = args\n\n def initializer(self):\n global bpe\n bpe = get_encoder(self.args.encoder_json, self.args.vocab_bpe)\n\n def encode(self, line):\n global bpe\n ids = bpe.encode(line)\n return list(map(str, ids))\n\n def decode(self, tokens):\n global bpe\n return bpe.decode(tokens)\n\n def encode_lines(self, lines):\n \"\"\"\n Encode a set of lines. All lines will be encoded together.\n \"\"\"\n enc_lines = []\n for line in lines:\n line = line.strip()\n if len(line) == 0 and not self.args.keep_empty:\n return [\"EMPTY\", None]\n tokens = self.encode(line)\n enc_lines.append(\" \".join(tokens))\n return [\"PASS\", enc_lines]\n\n def decode_lines(self, lines):\n dec_lines = []\n for line in lines:\n tokens = map(int, line.strip().split())\n dec_lines.append(self.decode(tokens))\n return [\"PASS\", dec_lines]\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/roberta/preprocess_GLUE_tasks.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\n\n# raw glue data as downloaded by glue download script (https://gist.github.com/W4ngatang/60c2bdb54d156a41194446737ce03e2e)\nif [[ $# -ne 2 ]]; then\n echo \"Run as following:\"\n echo \"./examples/roberta/preprocess_GLUE_tasks.sh \"\n exit 1\nfi\n\nGLUE_DATA_FOLDER=$1\n\n# download bpe encoder.json, vocabulary and fairseq dictionary\nwget -N 'https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/gpt2_bpe/encoder.json'\nwget -N 'https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/gpt2_bpe/vocab.bpe'\nwget -N 'https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/gpt2_bpe/dict.txt'\n\nTASKS=$2 # QQP\n\nif [ \"$TASKS\" = \"ALL\" ]\nthen\n TASKS=\"QQP MNLI QNLI MRPC RTE STS-B SST-2 CoLA\"\nfi\n\nfor TASK in $TASKS\ndo\n echo \"Preprocessing $TASK\"\n\n TASK_DATA_FOLDER=\"$GLUE_DATA_FOLDER/$TASK\"\n echo \"Raw data as downloaded from glue website: $TASK_DATA_FOLDER\"\n\n SPLITS=\"train dev test\"\n INPUT_COUNT=2\n if [ \"$TASK\" = \"QQP\" ]\n then\n INPUT_COLUMNS=( 4 5 )\n TEST_INPUT_COLUMNS=( 2 3 )\n LABEL_COLUMN=6\n elif [ \"$TASK\" = \"MNLI\" ]\n then\n SPLITS=\"train dev_matched dev_mismatched test_matched test_mismatched\"\n INPUT_COLUMNS=( 9 10 )\n TEST_INPUT_COLUMNS=( 9 10 )\n DEV_LABEL_COLUMN=16\n LABEL_COLUMN=12\n elif [ \"$TASK\" = \"QNLI\" ]\n then\n INPUT_COLUMNS=( 2 3 )\n TEST_INPUT_COLUMNS=( 2 3 )\n LABEL_COLUMN=4\n elif [ \"$TASK\" = \"MRPC\" ]\n then\n INPUT_COLUMNS=( 4 5 )\n TEST_INPUT_COLUMNS=( 4 5 )\n LABEL_COLUMN=1\n elif [ \"$TASK\" = \"RTE\" ]\n then\n INPUT_COLUMNS=( 2 3 )\n TEST_INPUT_COLUMNS=( 2 3 )\n LABEL_COLUMN=4\n elif [ \"$TASK\" = \"STS-B\" ]\n then\n INPUT_COLUMNS=( 8 9 )\n TEST_INPUT_COLUMNS=( 8 9 )\n LABEL_COLUMN=10\n # Following are single sentence tasks.\n elif [ \"$TASK\" = \"SST-2\" ]\n then\n INPUT_COLUMNS=( 1 )\n TEST_INPUT_COLUMNS=( 2 )\n LABEL_COLUMN=2\n INPUT_COUNT=1\n elif [ \"$TASK\" = \"CoLA\" ]\n then\n INPUT_COLUMNS=( 4 )\n TEST_INPUT_COLUMNS=( 2 )\n LABEL_COLUMN=2\n INPUT_COUNT=1\n fi\n\n # Strip out header and filter lines that don't have expected number of fields.\n rm -rf \"$TASK_DATA_FOLDER/processed\"\n mkdir -p \"$TASK_DATA_FOLDER/processed\"\n for SPLIT in $SPLITS\n do\n # CoLA train and dev doesn't have header.\n if [[ ( \"$TASK\" = \"CoLA\") && ( \"$SPLIT\" != \"test\" ) ]]\n then\n cp \"$TASK_DATA_FOLDER/$SPLIT.tsv\" \"$TASK_DATA_FOLDER/processed/$SPLIT.tsv.temp\";\n else\n tail -n +2 \"$TASK_DATA_FOLDER/$SPLIT.tsv\" > \"$TASK_DATA_FOLDER/processed/$SPLIT.tsv.temp\";\n fi\n\n # Remove unformatted lines from train and dev files for QQP dataset.\n if [[ ( \"$TASK\" = \"QQP\") && ( \"$SPLIT\" != \"test\" ) ]]\n then\n awk -F '\\t' -v NUM_FIELDS=6 'NF==NUM_FIELDS{print}{}' \"$TASK_DATA_FOLDER/processed/$SPLIT.tsv.temp\" > \"$TASK_DATA_FOLDER/processed/$SPLIT.tsv\";\n else\n cp \"$TASK_DATA_FOLDER/processed/$SPLIT.tsv.temp\" \"$TASK_DATA_FOLDER/processed/$SPLIT.tsv\";\n fi\n rm \"$TASK_DATA_FOLDER/processed/$SPLIT.tsv.temp\";\n done\n\n # Split into input0, input1 and label\n for SPLIT in $SPLITS\n do\n for INPUT_TYPE in $(seq 0 $((INPUT_COUNT-1)))\n do\n if [[ \"$SPLIT\" != test* ]]\n then\n COLUMN_NUMBER=${INPUT_COLUMNS[$INPUT_TYPE]}\n else\n COLUMN_NUMBER=${TEST_INPUT_COLUMNS[$INPUT_TYPE]}\n fi\n cut -f\"$COLUMN_NUMBER\" \"$TASK_DATA_FOLDER/processed/$SPLIT.tsv\" > \"$TASK_DATA_FOLDER/processed/$SPLIT.raw.input$INPUT_TYPE\";\n done\n\n if [[ \"$SPLIT\" != test* ]]\n then\n if [ \"$TASK\" = \"MNLI\" ] && [ \"$SPLIT\" != \"train\" ]\n then\n cut -f\"$DEV_LABEL_COLUMN\" \"$TASK_DATA_FOLDER/processed/$SPLIT.tsv\" > \"$TASK_DATA_FOLDER/processed/$SPLIT.label\";\n else\n cut -f\"$LABEL_COLUMN\" \"$TASK_DATA_FOLDER/processed/$SPLIT.tsv\" > \"$TASK_DATA_FOLDER/processed/$SPLIT.label\";\n fi\n fi\n\n # BPE encode.\n for INPUT_TYPE in $(seq 0 $((INPUT_COUNT-1)))\n do\n LANG=\"input$INPUT_TYPE\"\n echo \"BPE encoding $SPLIT/$LANG\"\n python -m examples.roberta.multiprocessing_bpe_encoder \\\n --encoder-json encoder.json \\\n --vocab-bpe vocab.bpe \\\n --inputs \"$TASK_DATA_FOLDER/processed/$SPLIT.raw.$LANG\" \\\n --outputs \"$TASK_DATA_FOLDER/processed/$SPLIT.$LANG\" \\\n --workers 60 \\\n --keep-empty;\n done\n done\n\n # Remove output directory.\n rm -rf \"$TASK-bin\"\n\n DEVPREF=\"$TASK_DATA_FOLDER/processed/dev.LANG\"\n TESTPREF=\"$TASK_DATA_FOLDER/processed/test.LANG\"\n if [ \"$TASK\" = \"MNLI\" ]\n then\n DEVPREF=\"$TASK_DATA_FOLDER/processed/dev_matched.LANG,$TASK_DATA_FOLDER/processed/dev_mismatched.LANG\"\n TESTPREF=\"$TASK_DATA_FOLDER/processed/test_matched.LANG,$TASK_DATA_FOLDER/processed/test_mismatched.LANG\"\n fi\n\n # Run fairseq preprocessing:\n for INPUT_TYPE in $(seq 0 $((INPUT_COUNT-1)))\n do\n LANG=\"input$INPUT_TYPE\"\n fairseq-preprocess \\\n --only-source \\\n --trainpref \"$TASK_DATA_FOLDER/processed/train.$LANG\" \\\n --validpref \"${DEVPREF//LANG/$LANG}\" \\\n --testpref \"${TESTPREF//LANG/$LANG}\" \\\n --destdir \"$TASK-bin/$LANG\" \\\n --workers 60 \\\n --srcdict dict.txt;\n done\n if [[ \"$TASK\" != \"STS-B\" ]]\n then\n fairseq-preprocess \\\n --only-source \\\n --trainpref \"$TASK_DATA_FOLDER/processed/train.label\" \\\n --validpref \"${DEVPREF//LANG/label}\" \\\n --destdir \"$TASK-bin/label\" \\\n --workers 60;\n else\n # For STS-B output range is converted to be between: [0.0, 1.0]\n mkdir -p \"$TASK-bin/label\"\n awk '{print $1 / 5.0 }' \"$TASK_DATA_FOLDER/processed/train.label\" > \"$TASK-bin/label/train.label\"\n awk '{print $1 / 5.0 }' \"$TASK_DATA_FOLDER/processed/dev.label\" > \"$TASK-bin/label/valid.label\"\n fi\ndone\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/roberta/preprocess_RACE.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n# All rights reserved.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport argparse\nimport json\nimport os\nimport re\n\n\nclass InputExample:\n def __init__(self, paragraph, qa_list, label):\n self.paragraph = paragraph\n self.qa_list = qa_list\n self.label = label\n\n\ndef get_examples(data_dir, set_type):\n \"\"\"\n Extract paragraph and question-answer list from each json file\n \"\"\"\n examples = []\n\n levels = [\"middle\", \"high\"]\n set_type_c = set_type.split(\"-\")\n if len(set_type_c) == 2:\n levels = [set_type_c[1]]\n set_type = set_type_c[0]\n for level in levels:\n cur_dir = os.path.join(data_dir, set_type, level)\n for filename in os.listdir(cur_dir):\n cur_path = os.path.join(cur_dir, filename)\n with open(cur_path, \"r\") as f:\n cur_data = json.load(f)\n answers = cur_data[\"answers\"]\n options = cur_data[\"options\"]\n questions = cur_data[\"questions\"]\n context = cur_data[\"article\"].replace(\"\\n\", \" \")\n context = re.sub(r\"\\s+\", \" \", context)\n for i in range(len(answers)):\n label = ord(answers[i]) - ord(\"A\")\n qa_list = []\n question = questions[i]\n for j in range(4):\n option = options[i][j]\n if \"_\" in question:\n qa_cat = question.replace(\"_\", option)\n else:\n qa_cat = \" \".join([question, option])\n qa_cat = re.sub(r\"\\s+\", \" \", qa_cat)\n qa_list.append(qa_cat)\n examples.append(InputExample(context, qa_list, label))\n\n return examples\n\n\ndef main():\n \"\"\"\n Helper script to extract paragraphs questions and answers from RACE datasets.\n \"\"\"\n parser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--input-dir\", help=\"input directory for downloaded RACE dataset\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--output-dir\", help=\"output directory for extracted data\",\n )\n args = parser.parse_args()\n\n if not os.path.exists(args.output_dir):\n os.makedirs(args.output_dir, exist_ok=True)\n\n for set_type in [\"train\", \"dev\", \"test-middle\", \"test-high\"]:\n examples = get_examples(args.input_dir, set_type)\n qa_file_paths = [\n os.path.join(args.output_dir, set_type + \".input\" + str(i + 1))\n for i in range(4)\n ]\n qa_files = [open(qa_file_path, \"w\") for qa_file_path in qa_file_paths]\n outf_context_path = os.path.join(args.output_dir, set_type + \".input0\")\n outf_label_path = os.path.join(args.output_dir, set_type + \".label\")\n outf_context = open(outf_context_path, \"w\")\n outf_label = open(outf_label_path, \"w\")\n for example in examples:\n outf_context.write(example.paragraph + \"\\n\")\n for i in range(4):\n qa_files[i].write(example.qa_list[i] + \"\\n\")\n outf_label.write(str(example.label) + \"\\n\")\n\n for f in qa_files:\n f.close()\n outf_label.close()\n outf_context.close()\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/roberta/preprocess_RACE.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\n\n# data should be downloaded and processed with reprocess_RACE.py\nif [[ $# -ne 2 ]]; then\n echo \"Run as following:\"\n echo \"./examples/roberta/preprocess_RACE.sh \"\n exit 1\nfi\n\nRACE_DATA_FOLDER=$1\nOUT_DATA_FOLDER=$2\n\n# download bpe encoder.json, vocabulary and fairseq dictionary\nwget -N 'https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/gpt2_bpe/encoder.json'\nwget -N 'https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/gpt2_bpe/vocab.bpe'\nwget -N 'https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/gpt2_bpe/dict.txt'\n\nSPLITS=\"train dev test-middle test-high\"\nINPUT_TYPES=\"input0 input1 input2 input3 input4\"\nfor INPUT_TYPE in $INPUT_TYPES\ndo\n for SPLIT in $SPLITS\n do\n echo \"BPE encoding $SPLIT/$INPUT_TYPE\"\n python -m examples.roberta.multiprocessing_bpe_encoder \\\n --encoder-json encoder.json \\\n --vocab-bpe vocab.bpe \\\n --inputs \"$RACE_DATA_FOLDER/$SPLIT.$INPUT_TYPE\" \\\n --outputs \"$RACE_DATA_FOLDER/$SPLIT.$INPUT_TYPE.bpe\" \\\n --workers 10 \\\n --keep-empty;\n\n done\ndone\n\nfor INPUT_TYPE in $INPUT_TYPES\n do\n LANG=\"input$INPUT_TYPE\"\n fairseq-preprocess \\\n --only-source \\\n --trainpref \"$RACE_DATA_FOLDER/train.$INPUT_TYPE.bpe\" \\\n --validpref \"$RACE_DATA_FOLDER/dev.$INPUT_TYPE.bpe\" \\\n --testpref \"$RACE_DATA_FOLDER/test-middle.$INPUT_TYPE.bpe,$RACE_DATA_FOLDER/test-high.$INPUT_TYPE.bpe\" \\\n --destdir \"$OUT_DATA_FOLDER/$INPUT_TYPE\" \\\n --workers 10 \\\n --srcdict dict.txt;\ndone\n\nrm -rf \"$OUT_DATA_FOLDER/label\"\nmkdir -p \"$OUT_DATA_FOLDER/label\"\ncp \"$RACE_DATA_FOLDER/train.label\" \"$OUT_DATA_FOLDER/label/\"\ncp \"$RACE_DATA_FOLDER/dev.label\" \"$OUT_DATA_FOLDER/label/valid.label\"\ncp \"$RACE_DATA_FOLDER/test-middle.label\" \"$OUT_DATA_FOLDER/label/test.label\"\ncp \"$RACE_DATA_FOLDER/test-high.label\" \"$OUT_DATA_FOLDER/label/test1.label\"\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/roberta/wsc/README.md", "content": "# Finetuning RoBERTa on Winograd Schema Challenge (WSC) data\n\nThe following instructions can be used to finetune RoBERTa on the WSC training\ndata provided by [SuperGLUE](https://super.gluebenchmark.com/).\n\nNote that there is high variance in the results. For our GLUE/SuperGLUE\nsubmission we swept over the learning rate (1e-5, 2e-5, 3e-5), batch size (16,\n32, 64) and total number of updates (500, 1000, 2000, 3000), as well as the\nrandom seed. Out of ~100 runs we chose the best 7 models and ensembled them.\n\n**Approach:** The instructions below use a slightly different loss function than\nwhat's described in the original RoBERTa arXiv paper. In particular,\n[Kocijan et al. (2019)](https://arxiv.org/abs/1905.06290) introduce a margin\nranking loss between `(query, candidate)` pairs with tunable hyperparameters\nalpha and beta. This is supported in our code as well with the `--wsc-alpha` and\n`--wsc-beta` arguments. However, we achieved slightly better (and more robust)\nresults on the development set by instead using a single cross entropy loss term\nover the log-probabilities for the query and all mined candidates. **The\ncandidates are mined using spaCy from each input sentence in isolation, so the\napproach remains strictly pointwise.** This reduces the number of\nhyperparameters and our best model achieved 92.3% development set accuracy,\ncompared to ~90% accuracy for the margin loss. Later versions of the RoBERTa\narXiv paper will describe this updated formulation.\n\n### 1) Download the WSC data from the SuperGLUE website:\n```bash\nwget https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/glue/superglue/data/v2/WSC.zip\nunzip WSC.zip\n\n# we also need to copy the RoBERTa dictionary into the same directory\nwget -O WSC/dict.txt https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/gpt2_bpe/dict.txt\n```\n\n### 2) Finetune over the provided training data:\n```bash\nTOTAL_NUM_UPDATES=2000 # Total number of training steps.\nWARMUP_UPDATES=250 # Linearly increase LR over this many steps.\nLR=2e-05 # Peak LR for polynomial LR scheduler.\nMAX_SENTENCES=16 # Batch size per GPU.\nSEED=1 # Random seed.\nROBERTA_PATH=/path/to/roberta/model.pt\n\n# we use the --user-dir option to load the task and criterion\n# from the examples/roberta/wsc directory:\nFAIRSEQ_PATH=/path/to/fairseq\nFAIRSEQ_USER_DIR=${FAIRSEQ_PATH}/examples/roberta/wsc\n\nCUDA_VISIBLE_DEVICES=0,1,2,3 fairseq-train WSC/ \\\n --restore-file $ROBERTA_PATH \\\n --reset-optimizer --reset-dataloader --reset-meters \\\n --no-epoch-checkpoints --no-last-checkpoints --no-save-optimizer-state \\\n --best-checkpoint-metric accuracy --maximize-best-checkpoint-metric \\\n --valid-subset val \\\n --fp16 --ddp-backend no_c10d \\\n --user-dir $FAIRSEQ_USER_DIR \\\n --task wsc --criterion wsc --wsc-cross-entropy \\\n --arch roberta_large --bpe gpt2 --max-positions 512 \\\n --dropout 0.1 --attention-dropout 0.1 --weight-decay 0.01 \\\n --optimizer adam --adam-betas '(0.9, 0.98)' --adam-eps 1e-06 \\\n --lr-scheduler polynomial_decay --lr $LR \\\n --warmup-updates $WARMUP_UPDATES --total-num-update $TOTAL_NUM_UPDATES \\\n --max-sentences $MAX_SENTENCES \\\n --max-update $TOTAL_NUM_UPDATES \\\n --log-format simple --log-interval 100 \\\n --seed $SEED\n```\n\nThe above command assumes training on 4 GPUs, but you can achieve the same\nresults on a single GPU by adding `--update-freq=4`.\n\n### 3) Evaluate\n```python\nfrom fairseq.models.roberta import RobertaModel\nfrom examples.roberta.wsc import wsc_utils # also loads WSC task and criterion\nroberta = RobertaModel.from_pretrained('checkpoints', 'checkpoint_best.pt', 'WSC/')\nroberta.cuda()\nnsamples, ncorrect = 0, 0\nfor sentence, label in wsc_utils.jsonl_iterator('WSC/val.jsonl', eval=True):\n pred = roberta.disambiguate_pronoun(sentence)\n nsamples += 1\n if pred == label:\n ncorrect += 1\nprint('Accuracy: ' + str(ncorrect / float(nsamples)))\n# Accuracy: 0.9230769230769231\n```\n\n## RoBERTa training on WinoGrande dataset\nWe have also provided `winogrande` task and criterion for finetuning on the\n[WinoGrande](https://mosaic.allenai.org/projects/winogrande) like datasets\nwhere there are always two candidates and one is correct.\nIt's more efficient implementation for such subcases.\n\n```bash\nTOTAL_NUM_UPDATES=23750 # Total number of training steps.\nWARMUP_UPDATES=2375 # Linearly increase LR over this many steps.\nLR=1e-05 # Peak LR for polynomial LR scheduler.\nMAX_SENTENCES=32 # Batch size per GPU.\nSEED=1 # Random seed.\nROBERTA_PATH=/path/to/roberta/model.pt\n\n# we use the --user-dir option to load the task and criterion\n# from the examples/roberta/wsc directory:\nFAIRSEQ_PATH=/path/to/fairseq\nFAIRSEQ_USER_DIR=${FAIRSEQ_PATH}/examples/roberta/wsc\n\ncd fairseq\nCUDA_VISIBLE_DEVICES=0 fairseq-train winogrande_1.0/ \\\n --restore-file $ROBERTA_PATH \\\n --reset-optimizer --reset-dataloader --reset-meters \\\n --no-epoch-checkpoints --no-last-checkpoints --no-save-optimizer-state \\\n --best-checkpoint-metric accuracy --maximize-best-checkpoint-metric \\\n --valid-subset val \\\n --fp16 --ddp-backend no_c10d \\\n --user-dir $FAIRSEQ_USER_DIR \\\n --task winogrande --criterion winogrande \\\n --wsc-margin-alpha 5.0 --wsc-margin-beta 0.4 \\\n --arch roberta_large --bpe gpt2 --max-positions 512 \\\n --dropout 0.1 --attention-dropout 0.1 --weight-decay 0.01 \\\n --optimizer adam --adam-betas '(0.9, 0.98)' --adam-eps 1e-06 \\\n --lr-scheduler polynomial_decay --lr $LR \\\n --warmup-updates $WARMUP_UPDATES --total-num-update $TOTAL_NUM_UPDATES \\\n --max-sentences $MAX_SENTENCES \\\n --max-update $TOTAL_NUM_UPDATES \\\n --log-format simple --log-interval 100\n```\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/roberta/wsc/__init__.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom . import wsc_criterion # noqa\nfrom . import wsc_task # noqa\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/roberta/wsc/wsc_criterion.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport math\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\nfrom fairseq.data import encoders\nfrom fairseq.criterions import FairseqCriterion, register_criterion\n\n\n@register_criterion(\"wsc\")\nclass WSCCriterion(FairseqCriterion):\n def __init__(self, args, task):\n super().__init__(args, task)\n if self.args.save_predictions is not None:\n self.prediction_h = open(self.args.save_predictions, \"w\")\n else:\n self.prediction_h = None\n self.bpe = encoders.build_bpe(args)\n self.tokenizer = encoders.build_tokenizer(args)\n\n def __del__(self):\n if self.prediction_h is not None:\n self.prediction_h.close()\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add criterion-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n parser.add_argument(\"--wsc-margin-alpha\", type=float, metavar=\"A\", default=1.0)\n parser.add_argument(\"--wsc-margin-beta\", type=float, metavar=\"B\", default=0.0)\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--wsc-cross-entropy\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"use cross entropy formulation instead of margin loss\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--save-predictions\", metavar=\"FILE\", help=\"file to save predictions to\"\n )\n\n def get_masked_input(self, tokens, mask):\n masked_tokens = tokens.clone()\n masked_tokens[mask] = self.task.mask\n return masked_tokens\n\n def get_lprobs(self, model, tokens, mask):\n logits, _ = model(src_tokens=self.get_masked_input(tokens, mask))\n lprobs = F.log_softmax(logits, dim=-1, dtype=torch.float)\n scores = lprobs.gather(2, tokens.unsqueeze(-1)).squeeze(-1)\n mask = mask.type_as(scores)\n scores = (scores * mask).sum(dim=-1) / mask.sum(dim=-1)\n return scores\n\n def get_loss(self, query_lprobs, cand_lprobs):\n if self.args.wsc_cross_entropy:\n return F.cross_entropy(\n torch.cat([query_lprobs, cand_lprobs]).unsqueeze(0),\n query_lprobs.new([0]).long(),\n )\n else:\n return (\n -query_lprobs\n + self.args.wsc_margin_alpha\n * (cand_lprobs - query_lprobs + self.args.wsc_margin_beta).clamp(min=0)\n ).sum()\n\n def forward(self, model, sample, reduce=True):\n # compute loss and accuracy\n loss, nloss = 0.0, 0\n ncorrect, nqueries = 0, 0\n\n for i, label in enumerate(sample[\"labels\"]):\n query_lprobs = self.get_lprobs(\n model,\n sample[\"query_tokens\"][i].unsqueeze(0),\n sample[\"query_masks\"][i].unsqueeze(0),\n )\n cand_lprobs = self.get_lprobs(\n model, sample[\"candidate_tokens\"][i], sample[\"candidate_masks\"][i],\n )\n\n pred = (query_lprobs >= cand_lprobs).all().item()\n\n if label is not None:\n label = 1 if label else 0\n ncorrect += 1 if pred == label else 0\n nqueries += 1\n\n if label:\n # only compute a loss for positive instances\n nloss += 1\n loss += self.get_loss(query_lprobs, cand_lprobs)\n\n id = sample[\"id\"][i].item()\n if self.prediction_h is not None:\n print(\"{}\\t{}\\t{}\".format(id, pred, label), file=self.prediction_h)\n\n if nloss == 0:\n loss = torch.tensor(0.0, requires_grad=True)\n\n sample_size = nqueries if nqueries > 0 else 1\n logging_output = {\n \"loss\": utils.item(loss.data) if reduce else loss.data,\n \"ntokens\": sample[\"ntokens\"],\n \"nsentences\": sample[\"nsentences\"],\n \"sample_size\": sample_size,\n \"ncorrect\": ncorrect,\n \"nqueries\": nqueries,\n }\n return loss, sample_size, logging_output\n\n @staticmethod\n def aggregate_logging_outputs(logging_outputs):\n \"\"\"Aggregate logging outputs from data parallel training.\"\"\"\n loss_sum = sum(log.get(\"loss\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n ntokens = sum(log.get(\"ntokens\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n nsentences = sum(log.get(\"nsentences\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n sample_size = sum(log.get(\"sample_size\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n\n agg_output = {\n \"loss\": loss_sum / sample_size / math.log(2),\n \"ntokens\": ntokens,\n \"nsentences\": nsentences,\n \"sample_size\": sample_size,\n }\n\n ncorrect = sum(log.get(\"ncorrect\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n nqueries = sum(log.get(\"nqueries\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n if nqueries > 0:\n agg_output[\"accuracy\"] = ncorrect / float(nqueries)\n\n return agg_output\n\n\n@register_criterion(\"winogrande\")\nclass WinograndeCriterion(WSCCriterion):\n def forward(self, model, sample, reduce=True):\n # compute loss and accuracy\n query_lprobs = self.get_lprobs(\n model, sample[\"query_tokens\"], sample[\"query_masks\"],\n )\n cand_lprobs = self.get_lprobs(\n model, sample[\"candidate_tokens\"], sample[\"candidate_masks\"],\n )\n pred = query_lprobs >= cand_lprobs\n loss = self.get_loss(query_lprobs, cand_lprobs)\n\n sample_size = sample[\"query_tokens\"].size(0)\n ncorrect = pred.sum().item()\n logging_output = {\n \"loss\": utils.item(loss.data) if reduce else loss.data,\n \"ntokens\": sample[\"ntokens\"],\n \"nsentences\": sample[\"nsentences\"],\n \"sample_size\": sample_size,\n \"ncorrect\": ncorrect,\n \"nqueries\": sample_size,\n }\n return loss, sample_size, logging_output\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/roberta/wsc/wsc_task.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport json\nimport os\nimport tempfile\n\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\nfrom fairseq.data import (\n data_utils,\n Dictionary,\n encoders,\n IdDataset,\n ListDataset,\n NestedDictionaryDataset,\n NumSamplesDataset,\n NumelDataset,\n PadDataset,\n SortDataset,\n)\nfrom fairseq.tasks import FairseqTask, register_task\n\nfrom . import wsc_utils\n\n\n@register_task(\"wsc\")\nclass WSCTask(FairseqTask):\n \"\"\"Task to finetune RoBERTa for Winograd Schemas.\"\"\"\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add task-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n parser.add_argument(\n \"data\", metavar=\"DIR\", help=\"path to data directory; we load .jsonl\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--init-token\",\n type=int,\n default=None,\n help=\"add token at the beginning of each batch item\",\n )\n\n def __init__(self, args, vocab):\n super().__init__(args)\n self.vocab = vocab\n self.mask = vocab.add_symbol(\"\")\n\n self.bpe = encoders.build_bpe(args)\n self.tokenizer = encoders.build_tokenizer(args)\n\n # hack to handle GPT-2 BPE, which includes leading spaces\n if args.bpe == \"gpt2\":\n self.leading_space = True\n self.trailing_space = False\n else:\n self.leading_space = False\n self.trailing_space = True\n\n @classmethod\n def load_dictionary(cls, filename):\n \"\"\"Load the dictionary from the filename\n\n Args:\n filename (str): the filename\n \"\"\"\n dictionary = Dictionary.load(filename)\n dictionary.add_symbol(\"\")\n return dictionary\n\n @classmethod\n def setup_task(cls, args, **kwargs):\n assert args.criterion == \"wsc\", \"Must set --criterion=wsc\"\n\n # load data and label dictionaries\n vocab = cls.load_dictionary(os.path.join(args.data, \"dict.txt\"))\n print(\"| dictionary: {} types\".format(len(vocab)))\n\n return cls(args, vocab)\n\n def binarize(self, s: str, append_eos: bool = False):\n if self.tokenizer is not None:\n s = self.tokenizer.encode(s)\n if self.bpe is not None:\n s = self.bpe.encode(s)\n tokens = self.vocab.encode_line(\n s, append_eos=append_eos, add_if_not_exist=False,\n ).long()\n if self.args.init_token is not None:\n tokens = torch.cat([tokens.new([self.args.init_token]), tokens])\n return tokens\n\n def binarize_with_mask(self, txt, prefix, suffix, leading_space, trailing_space):\n toks = self.binarize(\n prefix + leading_space + txt + trailing_space + suffix, append_eos=True,\n )\n mask = torch.zeros_like(toks, dtype=torch.uint8)\n mask_start = len(self.binarize(prefix))\n mask_size = len(self.binarize(leading_space + txt))\n mask[mask_start : mask_start + mask_size] = 1\n return toks, mask\n\n def load_dataset(\n self, split, epoch=0, combine=False, data_path=None, return_only=False, **kwargs\n ):\n \"\"\"Load a given dataset split.\n\n Args:\n split (str): name of the split (e.g., train, valid, test)\n \"\"\"\n if data_path is None:\n data_path = os.path.join(self.args.data, split + \".jsonl\")\n if not os.path.exists(data_path):\n raise FileNotFoundError(\"Cannot find data: {}\".format(data_path))\n\n query_tokens = []\n query_masks = []\n query_lengths = []\n candidate_tokens = []\n candidate_masks = []\n candidate_lengths = []\n labels = []\n\n for sentence, pronoun_span, query, label in wsc_utils.jsonl_iterator(data_path):\n prefix = sentence[: pronoun_span.start].text\n suffix = sentence[pronoun_span.end :].text_with_ws\n\n # spaCy spans include trailing spaces, but we need to know about\n # leading spaces for the GPT-2 BPE\n leading_space = (\n \" \" if sentence[: pronoun_span.start].text_with_ws.endswith(\" \") else \"\"\n )\n trailing_space = \" \" if pronoun_span.text_with_ws.endswith(\" \") else \"\"\n\n # get noun phrases, excluding pronouns and anything overlapping with the query\n cand_spans = wsc_utils.filter_noun_chunks(\n wsc_utils.extended_noun_chunks(sentence),\n exclude_pronouns=True,\n exclude_query=query,\n exact_match=False,\n )\n\n if query is not None:\n query_toks, query_mask = self.binarize_with_mask(\n query, prefix, suffix, leading_space, trailing_space\n )\n query_len = len(query_toks)\n else:\n query_toks, query_mask, query_len = None, None, 0\n\n query_tokens.append(query_toks)\n query_masks.append(query_mask)\n query_lengths.append(query_len)\n\n cand_toks, cand_masks = [], []\n for cand_span in cand_spans:\n toks, mask = self.binarize_with_mask(\n cand_span.text, prefix, suffix, leading_space, trailing_space,\n )\n cand_toks.append(toks)\n cand_masks.append(mask)\n\n # collate candidates\n cand_toks = data_utils.collate_tokens(cand_toks, pad_idx=self.vocab.pad())\n cand_masks = data_utils.collate_tokens(cand_masks, pad_idx=0)\n assert cand_toks.size() == cand_masks.size()\n\n candidate_tokens.append(cand_toks)\n candidate_masks.append(cand_masks)\n candidate_lengths.append(cand_toks.size(1))\n\n labels.append(label)\n\n query_lengths = np.array(query_lengths)\n query_tokens = ListDataset(query_tokens, query_lengths)\n query_masks = ListDataset(query_masks, query_lengths)\n\n candidate_lengths = np.array(candidate_lengths)\n candidate_tokens = ListDataset(candidate_tokens, candidate_lengths)\n candidate_masks = ListDataset(candidate_masks, candidate_lengths)\n\n labels = ListDataset(labels, [1] * len(labels))\n\n dataset = {\n \"id\": IdDataset(),\n \"query_tokens\": query_tokens,\n \"query_masks\": query_masks,\n \"candidate_tokens\": candidate_tokens,\n \"candidate_masks\": candidate_masks,\n \"labels\": labels,\n \"nsentences\": NumSamplesDataset(),\n \"ntokens\": NumelDataset(query_tokens, reduce=True),\n }\n\n nested_dataset = NestedDictionaryDataset(dataset, sizes=[query_lengths],)\n\n with data_utils.numpy_seed(self.args.seed):\n shuffle = np.random.permutation(len(query_tokens))\n dataset = SortDataset(\n nested_dataset,\n # shuffle\n sort_order=[shuffle],\n )\n\n if return_only:\n return dataset\n\n self.datasets[split] = dataset\n return self.datasets[split]\n\n def build_dataset_for_inference(self, sample_json):\n with tempfile.NamedTemporaryFile(buffering=0) as h:\n h.write((json.dumps(sample_json) + \"\\n\").encode(\"utf-8\"))\n dataset = self.load_dataset(\n \"disambiguate_pronoun\", data_path=h.name, return_only=True,\n )\n return dataset\n\n def disambiguate_pronoun(self, model, sentence, use_cuda=False):\n sample_json = wsc_utils.convert_sentence_to_json(sentence)\n dataset = self.build_dataset_for_inference(sample_json)\n sample = dataset.collater([dataset[0]])\n if use_cuda:\n sample = utils.move_to_cuda(sample)\n\n def get_masked_input(tokens, mask):\n masked_tokens = tokens.clone()\n masked_tokens[mask.bool()] = self.mask\n return masked_tokens\n\n def get_lprobs(tokens, mask):\n logits, _ = model(src_tokens=get_masked_input(tokens, mask))\n lprobs = F.log_softmax(logits, dim=-1, dtype=torch.float)\n scores = lprobs.gather(2, tokens.unsqueeze(-1)).squeeze(-1)\n mask = mask.type_as(scores)\n scores = (scores * mask).sum(dim=-1) / mask.sum(dim=-1)\n return scores\n\n cand_lprobs = get_lprobs(\n sample[\"candidate_tokens\"][0], sample[\"candidate_masks\"][0],\n )\n if sample[\"query_tokens\"][0] is not None:\n query_lprobs = get_lprobs(\n sample[\"query_tokens\"][0].unsqueeze(0),\n sample[\"query_masks\"][0].unsqueeze(0),\n )\n return (query_lprobs >= cand_lprobs).all().item() == 1\n else:\n best_idx = cand_lprobs.argmax().item()\n full_cand = sample[\"candidate_tokens\"][0][best_idx]\n mask = sample[\"candidate_masks\"][0][best_idx]\n toks = full_cand[mask.bool()]\n return self.bpe.decode(self.source_dictionary.string(toks)).strip()\n\n @property\n def source_dictionary(self):\n return self.vocab\n\n @property\n def target_dictionary(self):\n return self.vocab\n\n\n@register_task(\"winogrande\")\nclass WinograndeTask(WSCTask):\n \"\"\"\n Task for WinoGrande dataset. Efficient implementation for Winograd schema\n tasks with exactly two candidates, one of which is correct.\n \"\"\"\n\n @classmethod\n def setup_task(cls, args, **kwargs):\n assert args.criterion == \"winogrande\", \"Must set --criterion=winogrande\"\n\n # load data and label dictionaries\n vocab = cls.load_dictionary(os.path.join(args.data, \"dict.txt\"))\n print(\"| dictionary: {} types\".format(len(vocab)))\n\n return cls(args, vocab)\n\n def load_dataset(\n self, split, epoch=0, combine=False, data_path=None, return_only=False, **kwargs\n ):\n \"\"\"Load a given dataset split.\n\n Args:\n split (str): name of the split (e.g., train, valid, test)\n \"\"\"\n if data_path is None:\n data_path = os.path.join(self.args.data, split + \".jsonl\")\n if not os.path.exists(data_path):\n raise FileNotFoundError(\"Cannot find data: {}\".format(data_path))\n\n query_tokens = []\n query_masks = []\n query_lengths = []\n candidate_tokens = []\n candidate_masks = []\n candidate_lengths = []\n\n itr = wsc_utils.winogrande_jsonl_iterator(data_path, eval=(split == \"test\"))\n\n for sample in itr:\n sentence, pronoun_span, query, cand_text = sample\n prefix = sentence[: pronoun_span[0]].rstrip()\n suffix = sentence[pronoun_span[1] :]\n\n leading_space = \" \" if sentence[: pronoun_span[0]].endswith(\" \") else \"\"\n trailing_space = \"\"\n\n if query is not None:\n query_toks, query_mask = self.binarize_with_mask(\n query, prefix, suffix, leading_space, trailing_space,\n )\n query_len = len(query_toks)\n else:\n query_toks, query_mask, query_len = None, None, 0\n\n query_tokens.append(query_toks)\n query_masks.append(query_mask)\n query_lengths.append(query_len)\n\n cand_toks, cand_mask = self.binarize_with_mask(\n cand_text, prefix, suffix, leading_space, trailing_space,\n )\n\n candidate_tokens.append(cand_toks)\n candidate_masks.append(cand_mask)\n candidate_lengths.append(cand_toks.size(0))\n\n query_lengths = np.array(query_lengths)\n\n def get_pad_dataset_fn(tokens, length, pad_idx):\n return PadDataset(\n ListDataset(tokens, length), pad_idx=pad_idx, left_pad=False,\n )\n\n query_tokens = get_pad_dataset_fn(query_tokens, query_lengths, self.vocab.pad())\n query_masks = get_pad_dataset_fn(query_masks, query_lengths, 0)\n\n candidate_lengths = np.array(candidate_lengths)\n candidate_tokens = get_pad_dataset_fn(\n candidate_tokens, candidate_lengths, self.vocab.pad()\n )\n candidate_masks = get_pad_dataset_fn(candidate_masks, candidate_lengths, 0)\n\n dataset = {\n \"id\": IdDataset(),\n \"query_tokens\": query_tokens,\n \"query_masks\": query_masks,\n \"candidate_tokens\": candidate_tokens,\n \"candidate_masks\": candidate_masks,\n \"nsentences\": NumSamplesDataset(),\n \"ntokens\": NumelDataset(query_tokens, reduce=True),\n }\n\n nested_dataset = NestedDictionaryDataset(dataset, sizes=[query_lengths],)\n\n with data_utils.numpy_seed(self.args.seed):\n shuffle = np.random.permutation(len(query_tokens))\n dataset = SortDataset(\n nested_dataset,\n # shuffle\n sort_order=[shuffle],\n )\n\n if return_only:\n return dataset\n\n self.datasets[split] = dataset\n return self.datasets[split]\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/roberta/wsc/wsc_utils.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom functools import lru_cache\nimport json\n\n\ndef convert_sentence_to_json(sentence):\n if \"_\" in sentence:\n prefix, rest = sentence.split(\"_\", 1)\n query, rest = rest.split(\"_\", 1)\n query_index = len(prefix.rstrip().split(\" \"))\n else:\n query, query_index = None, None\n\n prefix, rest = sentence.split(\"[\", 1)\n pronoun, rest = rest.split(\"]\", 1)\n pronoun_index = len(prefix.rstrip().split(\" \"))\n\n sentence = sentence.replace(\"_\", \"\").replace(\"[\", \"\").replace(\"]\", \"\")\n\n return {\n \"idx\": 0,\n \"text\": sentence,\n \"target\": {\n \"span1_index\": query_index,\n \"span1_text\": query,\n \"span2_index\": pronoun_index,\n \"span2_text\": pronoun,\n },\n }\n\n\ndef extended_noun_chunks(sentence):\n noun_chunks = {(np.start, np.end) for np in sentence.noun_chunks}\n np_start, cur_np = 0, \"NONE\"\n for i, token in enumerate(sentence):\n np_type = token.pos_ if token.pos_ in {\"NOUN\", \"PROPN\"} else \"NONE\"\n if np_type != cur_np:\n if cur_np != \"NONE\":\n noun_chunks.add((np_start, i))\n if np_type != \"NONE\":\n np_start = i\n cur_np = np_type\n if cur_np != \"NONE\":\n noun_chunks.add((np_start, len(sentence)))\n return [sentence[s:e] for (s, e) in sorted(noun_chunks)]\n\n\ndef find_token(sentence, start_pos):\n found_tok = None\n for tok in sentence:\n if tok.idx == start_pos:\n found_tok = tok\n break\n return found_tok\n\n\ndef find_span(sentence, search_text, start=0):\n search_text = search_text.lower()\n for tok in sentence[start:]:\n remainder = sentence[tok.i :].text.lower()\n if remainder.startswith(search_text):\n len_to_consume = len(search_text)\n start_idx = tok.idx\n for next_tok in sentence[tok.i :]:\n end_idx = next_tok.idx + len(next_tok.text)\n if end_idx - start_idx == len_to_consume:\n span = sentence[tok.i : next_tok.i + 1]\n return span\n return None\n\n\n@lru_cache(maxsize=1)\ndef get_detokenizer():\n from sacremoses import MosesDetokenizer\n\n detok = MosesDetokenizer(lang=\"en\")\n return detok\n\n\n@lru_cache(maxsize=1)\ndef get_spacy_nlp():\n import en_core_web_lg\n\n nlp = en_core_web_lg.load()\n return nlp\n\n\ndef jsonl_iterator(input_fname, positive_only=False, ngram_order=3, eval=False):\n detok = get_detokenizer()\n nlp = get_spacy_nlp()\n\n with open(input_fname) as fin:\n for line in fin:\n sample = json.loads(line.strip())\n\n if positive_only and \"label\" in sample and not sample[\"label\"]:\n # only consider examples where the query is correct\n continue\n\n target = sample[\"target\"]\n\n # clean up the query\n query = target[\"span1_text\"]\n if query is not None:\n if \"\\n\" in query:\n continue\n if query.endswith(\".\") or query.endswith(\",\"):\n query = query[:-1]\n\n # split tokens\n tokens = sample[\"text\"].split(\" \")\n\n def strip_pronoun(x):\n return x.rstrip('.,\"')\n\n # find the pronoun\n pronoun_idx = target[\"span2_index\"]\n pronoun = strip_pronoun(target[\"span2_text\"])\n if strip_pronoun(tokens[pronoun_idx]) != pronoun:\n # hack: sometimes the index is misaligned\n if strip_pronoun(tokens[pronoun_idx + 1]) == pronoun:\n pronoun_idx += 1\n else:\n raise Exception(\"Misaligned pronoun!\")\n assert strip_pronoun(tokens[pronoun_idx]) == pronoun\n\n # split tokens before and after the pronoun\n before = tokens[:pronoun_idx]\n after = tokens[pronoun_idx + 1 :]\n\n # the GPT BPE attaches leading spaces to tokens, so we keep track\n # of whether we need spaces before or after the pronoun\n leading_space = \" \" if pronoun_idx > 0 else \"\"\n trailing_space = \" \" if len(after) > 0 else \"\"\n\n # detokenize\n before = detok.detokenize(before, return_str=True)\n pronoun = detok.detokenize([pronoun], return_str=True)\n after = detok.detokenize(after, return_str=True)\n\n # hack: when the pronoun ends in a period (or comma), move the\n # punctuation to the \"after\" part\n if pronoun.endswith(\".\") or pronoun.endswith(\",\"):\n after = pronoun[-1] + trailing_space + after\n pronoun = pronoun[:-1]\n\n # hack: when the \"after\" part begins with a comma or period, remove\n # the trailing space\n if after.startswith(\".\") or after.startswith(\",\"):\n trailing_space = \"\"\n\n # parse sentence with spacy\n sentence = nlp(before + leading_space + pronoun + trailing_space + after)\n\n # find pronoun span\n start = len(before + leading_space)\n first_pronoun_tok = find_token(sentence, start_pos=start)\n pronoun_span = find_span(sentence, pronoun, start=first_pronoun_tok.i)\n assert pronoun_span.text == pronoun\n\n if eval:\n # convert to format where pronoun is surrounded by \"[]\" and\n # query is surrounded by \"_\"\n query_span = find_span(sentence, query)\n query_with_ws = \"_{}_{}\".format(\n query_span.text,\n (\" \" if query_span.text_with_ws.endswith(\" \") else \"\"),\n )\n pronoun_with_ws = \"[{}]{}\".format(\n pronoun_span.text,\n (\" \" if pronoun_span.text_with_ws.endswith(\" \") else \"\"),\n )\n if query_span.start < pronoun_span.start:\n first = (query_span, query_with_ws)\n second = (pronoun_span, pronoun_with_ws)\n else:\n first = (pronoun_span, pronoun_with_ws)\n second = (query_span, query_with_ws)\n sentence = (\n sentence[: first[0].start].text_with_ws\n + first[1]\n + sentence[first[0].end : second[0].start].text_with_ws\n + second[1]\n + sentence[second[0].end :].text\n )\n yield sentence, sample.get(\"label\", None)\n else:\n yield sentence, pronoun_span, query, sample.get(\"label\", None)\n\n\ndef winogrande_jsonl_iterator(input_fname, eval=False):\n with open(input_fname) as fin:\n for line in fin:\n sample = json.loads(line.strip())\n sentence, option1, option2 = (\n sample[\"sentence\"],\n sample[\"option1\"],\n sample[\"option2\"],\n )\n\n pronoun_span = (sentence.index(\"_\"), sentence.index(\"_\") + 1)\n\n if eval:\n query, cand = option1, option2\n else:\n query = option1 if sample[\"answer\"] == \"1\" else option2\n cand = option2 if sample[\"answer\"] == \"1\" else option1\n yield sentence, pronoun_span, query, cand\n\n\ndef filter_noun_chunks(\n chunks, exclude_pronouns=False, exclude_query=None, exact_match=False\n):\n if exclude_pronouns:\n chunks = [\n np\n for np in chunks\n if (np.lemma_ != \"-PRON-\" and not all(tok.pos_ == \"PRON\" for tok in np))\n ]\n\n if exclude_query is not None:\n excl_txt = [exclude_query.lower()]\n filtered_chunks = []\n for chunk in chunks:\n lower_chunk = chunk.text.lower()\n found = False\n for excl in excl_txt:\n if (\n not exact_match and (lower_chunk in excl or excl in lower_chunk)\n ) or lower_chunk == excl:\n found = True\n break\n if not found:\n filtered_chunks.append(chunk)\n chunks = filtered_chunks\n\n return chunks\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/scaling_nmt/README.md", "content": "# Scaling Neural Machine Translation (Ott et al., 2018)\n\nThis page includes instructions for reproducing results from the paper [Scaling Neural Machine Translation (Ott et al., 2018)](https://arxiv.org/abs/1806.00187).\n\n## Pre-trained models\n\nModel | Description | Dataset | Download\n---|---|---|---\n`transformer.wmt14.en-fr` | Transformer
([Ott et al., 2018](https://arxiv.org/abs/1806.00187)) | [WMT14 English-French](http://statmt.org/wmt14/translation-task.html#Download) | model:
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt14.en-fr.joined-dict.transformer.tar.bz2)
newstest2014:
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/wmt14.en-fr.joined-dict.newstest2014.tar.bz2)\n`transformer.wmt16.en-de` | Transformer
([Ott et al., 2018](https://arxiv.org/abs/1806.00187)) | [WMT16 English-German](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B_bZck-ksdkpM25jRUN2X2UxMm8) | model:
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt16.en-de.joined-dict.transformer.tar.bz2)
newstest2014:
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/wmt16.en-de.joined-dict.newstest2014.tar.bz2)\n\n## Training a new model on WMT'16 En-De\n\nFirst download the [preprocessed WMT'16 En-De data provided by Google](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B_bZck-ksdkpM25jRUN2X2UxMm8).\n\nThen:\n\n##### 1. Extract the WMT'16 En-De data\n```bash\nTEXT=wmt16_en_de_bpe32k\nmkdir -p $TEXT\ntar -xzvf wmt16_en_de.tar.gz -C $TEXT\n```\n\n##### 2. Preprocess the dataset with a joined dictionary\n```bash\nfairseq-preprocess \\\n --source-lang en --target-lang de \\\n --trainpref $TEXT/train.tok.clean.bpe.32000 \\\n --validpref $TEXT/newstest2013.tok.bpe.32000 \\\n --testpref $TEXT/newstest2014.tok.bpe.32000 \\\n --destdir data-bin/wmt16_en_de_bpe32k \\\n --nwordssrc 32768 --nwordstgt 32768 \\\n --joined-dictionary \\\n --workers 20\n```\n\n##### 3. Train a model\n```bash\nfairseq-train \\\n data-bin/wmt16_en_de_bpe32k \\\n --arch transformer_vaswani_wmt_en_de_big --share-all-embeddings \\\n --optimizer adam --adam-betas '(0.9, 0.98)' --clip-norm 0.0 \\\n --lr 0.0005 --lr-scheduler inverse_sqrt --warmup-updates 4000 --warmup-init-lr 1e-07 \\\n --dropout 0.3 --weight-decay 0.0 \\\n --criterion label_smoothed_cross_entropy --label-smoothing 0.1 \\\n --max-tokens 3584 \\\n --fp16\n```\n\nNote that the `--fp16` flag requires you have CUDA 9.1 or greater and a Volta GPU or newer.\n\n***IMPORTANT:*** You will get better performance by training with big batches and\nincreasing the learning rate. If you want to train the above model with big batches\n(assuming your machine has 8 GPUs):\n- add `--update-freq 16` to simulate training on 8x16=128 GPUs\n- increase the learning rate; 0.001 works well for big batches\n\n##### 4. Evaluate\n\nNow we can evaluate our trained model.\n\nNote that the original [Attention Is All You Need](https://arxiv.org/abs/1706.03762)\npaper used a couple tricks to achieve better BLEU scores. We use these same tricks in\nthe Scaling NMT paper, so it's important to apply them when reproducing our results.\n\nFirst, use the [average_checkpoints.py](/scripts/average_checkpoints.py) script to\naverage the last few checkpoints. Averaging the last 5-10 checkpoints is usually\ngood, but you may need to adjust this depending on how long you've trained:\n```bash\npython scripts/average_checkpoints \\\n --inputs /path/to/checkpoints \\\n --num-epoch-checkpoints 5 \\\n --output checkpoint.avg5.pt\n```\n\nNext, generate translations using a beam width of 4 and length penalty of 0.6:\n```bash\nfairseq-generate \\\n data-bin/wmt16_en_de_bpe32k \\\n --path checkpoint.avg5.pt \\\n --beam 4 --lenpen 0.6 --remove-bpe\n```\n\n## Citation\n\n```bibtex\n@inproceedings{ott2018scaling,\n title = {Scaling Neural Machine Translation},\n author = {Ott, Myle and Edunov, Sergey and Grangier, David and Auli, Michael},\n booktitle = {Proceedings of the Third Conference on Machine Translation (WMT)},\n year = 2018,\n}\n```\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/speech_recognition/README.md", "content": "# Speech Recognition\n`examples/speech_recognition` is implementing ASR task in Fairseq, along with needed features, datasets, models and loss functions to train and infer model described in [Transformers with convolutional context for ASR (Abdelrahman Mohamed et al., 2019)](https://arxiv.org/abs/1904.11660).\n\n\n## Additional dependencies\nOn top of main fairseq dependencies there are couple more additional requirements.\n\n1) Please follow the instructions to install [torchaudio](https://github.com/pytorch/audio). This is required to compute audio fbank features.\n2) [Sclite](http://www1.icsi.berkeley.edu/Speech/docs/sctk-1.2/sclite.htm#sclite_name_0) is used to measure WER. Sclite can be downloaded and installed from source from sctk package [here](http://www.openslr.org/4/). Training and inference doesn't require Sclite dependency.\n3) [sentencepiece](https://github.com/google/sentencepiece) is required in order to create dataset with word-piece targets.\n\n## Preparing librispeech data\n```\n./examples/speech_recognition/datasets/prepare-librispeech.sh $DIR_TO_SAVE_RAW_DATA $DIR_FOR_PREPROCESSED_DATA\n```\n\n## Training librispeech data\n```\npython train.py $DIR_FOR_PREPROCESSED_DATA --save-dir $MODEL_PATH --max-epoch 80 --task speech_recognition --arch vggtransformer_2 --optimizer adadelta --lr 1.0 --adadelta-eps 1e-8 --adadelta-rho 0.95 --clip-norm 10.0 --max-tokens 5000 --log-format json --log-interval 1 --criterion cross_entropy_acc --user-dir examples/speech_recognition/\n```\n\n## Inference for librispeech\n`$SET` can be `test_clean` or `test_other`\nAny checkpoint in `$MODEL_PATH` can be selected. In this example we are working with `checkpoint_last.pt`\n```\npython examples/speech_recognition/infer.py $DIR_FOR_PREPROCESSED_DATA --task speech_recognition --max-tokens 25000 --nbest 1 --path $MODEL_PATH/checkpoint_last.pt --beam 20 --results-path $RES_DIR --batch-size 40 --gen-subset $SET --user-dir examples/speech_recognition/\n```\n\n## Inference for librispeech\n```\nsclite -r ${RES_DIR}/ref.word-checkpoint_last.pt-${SET}.txt -h ${RES_DIR}/hypo.word-checkpoint_last.pt-${SET}.txt -i rm -o all stdout > $RES_REPORT\n```\n`Sum/Avg` row from first table of the report has WER\n\n## Using wav2letter components\n[wav2letter](https://github.com/facebookresearch/wav2letter) now has integration with fairseq. Currently this includes:\n\n* AutoSegmentationCriterion (ASG)\n* wav2letter-style Conv/GLU model\n* wav2letter's beam search decoder\n\nTo use these, follow the instructions at the bottom of [this page](https://github.com/facebookresearch/wav2letter/blob/master/docs/installation.md) to install python bindings. Please note that python bindings are for a *subset* of wav2letter and don't require its full dependencies (notably, `flashlight` and `ArrayFire` are *not* required).\n\nTo quickly summarize the instructions: first, install [CUDA](https://developer.nvidia.com/cuda-downloads). Then follow these steps:\n```\n# additional prerequisites - use equivalents for your distro\nsudo apt-get install build-essential cmake libatlas-base-dev libfftw3-dev liblzma-dev libbz2-dev libzstd-dev\n# install KenLM from source\ngit clone https://github.com/kpu/kenlm.git\ncd kenlm\nmkdir -p build && cd build\ncmake .. -DCMAKE_BUILD_TYPE=Release -DCMAKE_POSITION_INDEPENDENT_CODE=ON\nmake -j16\ncd ..\nexport KENLM_ROOT_DIR=$(pwd)\ncd ..\n# install wav2letter python bindings\ngit clone https://github.com/facebookresearch/wav2letter.git\ncd wav2letter/bindings/python\n# make sure your python environment is active at this point\npip install torch packaging\npip install -e .\n# try some examples to verify installation succeeded\npython ./examples/criterion_example.py\npython ./examples/decoder_example.py ../../src/decoder/test\npython ./examples/feature_example.py ../../src/feature/test/data\n```\n\n## Training librispeech data (wav2letter style, Conv/GLU + ASG loss)\nTraining command:\n```\npython train.py $DIR_FOR_PREPROCESSED_DATA --save-dir $MODEL_PATH --max-epoch 100 --task speech_recognition --arch w2l_conv_glu_enc --batch-size 4 --optimizer sgd --lr 0.3,0.8 --momentum 0.8 --clip-norm 0.2 --max-tokens 50000 --log-format json --log-interval 100 --num-workers 0 --sentence-avg --criterion asg_loss --asg-transitions-init 5 --max-replabel 2 --linseg-updates 8789 --user-dir examples/speech_recognition\n```\n\nNote that ASG loss currently doesn't do well with word-pieces. You should prepare a dataset with character targets by setting `nbpe=31` in `prepare-librispeech.sh`.\n\n## Inference for librispeech (wav2letter decoder, n-gram LM)\nInference command:\n```\npython examples/speech_recognition/infer.py $DIR_FOR_PREPROCESSED_DATA --task speech_recognition --seed 1 --nbest 1 --path $MODEL_PATH/checkpoint_last.pt --gen-subset $SET --results-path $RES_DIR --w2l-decoder kenlm --kenlm-model $KENLM_MODEL_PATH --lexicon $LEXICON_PATH --beam 200 --beam-threshold 15 --lm-weight 1.5 --word-score 1.5 --sil-weight -0.3 --criterion asg_loss --max-replabel 2 --user-dir examples/speech_recognition\n```\n\n`$KENLM_MODEL_PATH` should be a standard n-gram language model file. `$LEXICON_PATH` should be a wav2letter-style lexicon (list of known words and their spellings). For ASG inference, a lexicon line should look like this (note the repetition labels):\n```\ndoorbell D O 1 R B E L 1 ▁\n```\nFor CTC inference with word-pieces, repetition labels are not used and the lexicon should have most common spellings for each word (one can use sentencepiece's `NBestEncodeAsPieces` for this):\n```\ndoorbell ▁DOOR BE LL\ndoorbell ▁DOOR B E LL\ndoorbell ▁DO OR BE LL\ndoorbell ▁DOOR B EL L\ndoorbell ▁DOOR BE L L\ndoorbell ▁DO OR B E LL\ndoorbell ▁DOOR B E L L\ndoorbell ▁DO OR B EL L\ndoorbell ▁DO O R BE LL\ndoorbell ▁DO OR BE L L\n```\nLowercase vs. uppercase matters: the *word* should match the case of the n-gram language model (i.e. `$KENLM_MODEL_PATH`), while the *spelling* should match the case of the token dictionary (i.e. `$DIR_FOR_PREPROCESSED_DATA/dict.txt`).\n\n## Inference for librispeech (wav2letter decoder, viterbi only)\nInference command:\n```\npython examples/speech_recognition/infer.py $DIR_FOR_PREPROCESSED_DATA --task speech_recognition --seed 1 --nbest 1 --path $MODEL_PATH/checkpoint_last.pt --gen-subset $SET --results-path $RES_DIR --w2l-decoder viterbi --criterion asg_loss --max-replabel 2 --user-dir examples/speech_recognition\n```\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/speech_recognition/__init__.py", "content": "from . import tasks, criterions, models # noqa\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/speech_recognition/criterions/ASG_loss.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3\n\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport math\n\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nfrom fairseq import utils\nfrom fairseq.criterions import FairseqCriterion, register_criterion\nfrom examples.speech_recognition.data.replabels import pack_replabels\n\nfrom wav2letter.criterion import ASGLoss, CriterionScaleMode\n\n\n@register_criterion(\"asg_loss\")\nclass ASGCriterion(FairseqCriterion):\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n group = parser.add_argument_group(\"ASG Loss\")\n group.add_argument(\n \"--asg-transitions-init\",\n help=\"initial diagonal value of transition matrix\",\n type=float,\n default=0.0,\n )\n group.add_argument(\n \"--max-replabel\", help=\"maximum # of replabels\", type=int, default=2\n )\n group.add_argument(\n \"--linseg-updates\",\n help=\"# of training updates to use LinSeg initialization\",\n type=int,\n default=0,\n )\n group.add_argument(\n \"--hide-linseg-messages\",\n help=\"hide messages about LinSeg initialization\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n )\n\n def __init__(self, args, task):\n super().__init__(args, task)\n self.tgt_dict = task.target_dictionary\n self.eos = self.tgt_dict.eos()\n self.silence = (\n self.tgt_dict.index(args.silence_token)\n if args.silence_token in self.tgt_dict\n else None\n )\n self.max_replabel = args.max_replabel\n\n num_labels = len(self.tgt_dict)\n self.asg = ASGLoss(num_labels, scale_mode=CriterionScaleMode.TARGET_SZ_SQRT)\n self.asg.trans = torch.nn.Parameter(\n args.asg_transitions_init * torch.eye(num_labels), requires_grad=True\n )\n\n self.linseg_progress = torch.nn.Parameter(\n torch.tensor([0], dtype=torch.int), requires_grad=False\n )\n self.linseg_maximum = args.linseg_updates\n self.linseg_message_state = \"none\" if args.hide_linseg_messages else \"start\"\n\n def linseg_step(self):\n if not self.training:\n return False\n if self.linseg_progress.item() < self.linseg_maximum:\n if self.linseg_message_state == \"start\":\n print(\"| using LinSeg to initialize ASG\")\n self.linseg_message_state = \"finish\"\n self.linseg_progress.add_(1)\n return True\n elif self.linseg_message_state == \"finish\":\n print(\"| finished LinSeg initialization\")\n self.linseg_message_state = \"none\"\n return False\n\n def replace_eos_with_silence(self, tgt):\n if tgt[-1] != self.eos:\n return tgt\n elif self.silence is None or (len(tgt) > 1 and tgt[-2] == self.silence):\n return tgt[:-1]\n else:\n return tgt[:-1] + [self.silence]\n\n def forward(self, model, sample, reduce=True):\n \"\"\"Compute the loss for the given sample.\n\n Returns a tuple with three elements:\n 1) the loss\n 2) the sample size, which is used as the denominator for the gradient\n 3) logging outputs to display while training\n \"\"\"\n\n net_output = model(**sample[\"net_input\"])\n emissions = net_output[\"encoder_out\"].transpose(0, 1).contiguous()\n B = emissions.size(0)\n T = emissions.size(1)\n device = emissions.device\n\n target = torch.IntTensor(B, T)\n target_size = torch.IntTensor(B)\n using_linseg = self.linseg_step()\n\n for b in range(B):\n initial_target_size = sample[\"target_lengths\"][b].item()\n if initial_target_size == 0:\n raise ValueError(\"target size cannot be zero\")\n\n tgt = sample[\"target\"][b, :initial_target_size].tolist()\n tgt = self.replace_eos_with_silence(tgt)\n tgt = pack_replabels(tgt, self.tgt_dict, self.max_replabel)\n tgt = tgt[:T]\n\n if using_linseg:\n tgt = [tgt[t * len(tgt) // T] for t in range(T)]\n\n target[b][: len(tgt)] = torch.IntTensor(tgt)\n target_size[b] = len(tgt)\n\n loss = self.asg.forward(emissions, target.to(device), target_size.to(device))\n\n if reduce:\n loss = torch.sum(loss)\n\n sample_size = (\n sample[\"target\"].size(0) if self.args.sentence_avg else sample[\"ntokens\"]\n )\n logging_output = {\n \"loss\": utils.item(loss.data) if reduce else loss.data,\n \"ntokens\": sample[\"ntokens\"],\n \"nsentences\": sample[\"target\"].size(0),\n \"sample_size\": sample_size,\n }\n return loss, sample_size, logging_output\n\n @staticmethod\n def aggregate_logging_outputs(logging_outputs):\n \"\"\"Aggregate logging outputs from data parallel training.\"\"\"\n loss_sum = sum(log.get(\"loss\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n ntokens = sum(log.get(\"ntokens\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n nsentences = sum(log.get(\"nsentences\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n sample_size = sum(log.get(\"sample_size\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n agg_output = {\n \"loss\": loss_sum / nsentences,\n \"ntokens\": ntokens,\n \"nsentences\": nsentences,\n \"sample_size\": sample_size,\n }\n return agg_output\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/speech_recognition/criterions/CTC_loss.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3\n\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport logging\nimport math\nfrom itertools import groupby\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\nfrom fairseq import utils\nfrom fairseq.criterions import FairseqCriterion, register_criterion\nfrom examples.speech_recognition.data.data_utils import encoder_padding_mask_to_lengths\nfrom examples.speech_recognition.utils.wer_utils import Code, EditDistance, Token\n\n\nlogger = logging.getLogger(__name__)\nlogger.setLevel(logging.DEBUG)\n\n\ndef arr_to_toks(arr):\n toks = []\n for a in arr:\n toks.append(Token(str(a), 0.0, 0.0))\n return toks\n\n\ndef compute_ctc_uer(logprobs, targets, input_lengths, target_lengths, blank_idx):\n \"\"\"\n Computes utterance error rate for CTC outputs\n\n Args:\n logprobs: (Torch.tensor) N, T1, D tensor of log probabilities out\n of the encoder\n targets: (Torch.tensor) N, T2 tensor of targets\n input_lengths: (Torch.tensor) lengths of inputs for each sample\n target_lengths: (Torch.tensor) lengths of targets for each sample\n blank_idx: (integer) id of blank symbol in target dictionary\n\n Returns:\n batch_errors: (float) errors in the batch\n batch_total: (float) total number of valid samples in batch\n \"\"\"\n batch_errors = 0.0\n batch_total = 0.0\n for b in range(logprobs.shape[0]):\n predicted = logprobs[b][: input_lengths[b]].argmax(1).tolist()\n target = targets[b][: target_lengths[b]].tolist()\n # dedup predictions\n predicted = [p[0] for p in groupby(predicted)]\n # remove blanks\n nonblanks = []\n for p in predicted:\n if p != blank_idx:\n nonblanks.append(p)\n predicted = nonblanks\n\n # compute the alignment based on EditDistance\n alignment = EditDistance(False).align(\n arr_to_toks(predicted), arr_to_toks(target)\n )\n\n # compute the number of errors\n # note that alignment.codes can also be used for computing\n # deletion, insersion and substitution error breakdowns in future\n for a in alignment.codes:\n if a != Code.match:\n batch_errors += 1\n batch_total += len(target)\n\n return batch_errors, batch_total\n\n\n@register_criterion(\"ctc_loss\")\nclass CTCCriterion(FairseqCriterion):\n def __init__(self, args, task):\n super().__init__(args, task)\n self.blank_idx = task.target_dictionary.index(\"\")\n self.pad_idx = task.target_dictionary.pad()\n self.task = task\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--use-source-side-sample-size\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n default=False,\n help=(\n \"when compute average loss, using number of source tokens \"\n + \"as denominator. \"\n + \"This argument will be no-op if sentence-avg is used.\"\n ),\n )\n\n def forward(self, model, sample, reduce=True, log_probs=True):\n \"\"\"Compute the loss for the given sample.\n\n Returns a tuple with three elements:\n 1) the loss\n 2) the sample size, which is used as the denominator for the gradient\n 3) logging outputs to display while training\n \"\"\"\n net_output = model(**sample[\"net_input\"])\n lprobs = model.get_normalized_probs(net_output, log_probs=log_probs)\n if not hasattr(lprobs, \"batch_first\"):\n logging.warning(\n \"ERROR: we need to know whether \"\n \"batch first for the encoder output; \"\n \"you need to set batch_first attribute for the return value of \"\n \"model.get_normalized_probs. Now, we assume this is true, but \"\n \"in the future, we will raise exception instead. \"\n )\n\n batch_first = getattr(lprobs, \"batch_first\", True)\n\n if not batch_first:\n max_seq_len = lprobs.size(0)\n bsz = lprobs.size(1)\n else:\n max_seq_len = lprobs.size(1)\n bsz = lprobs.size(0)\n device = net_output[\"encoder_out\"].device\n\n input_lengths = encoder_padding_mask_to_lengths(\n net_output[\"encoder_padding_mask\"], max_seq_len, bsz, device\n )\n target_lengths = sample[\"target_lengths\"]\n targets = sample[\"target\"]\n\n if batch_first:\n # N T D -> T N D (F.ctc_loss expects this)\n lprobs = lprobs.transpose(0, 1)\n\n pad_mask = sample[\"target\"] != self.pad_idx\n targets_flat = targets.masked_select(pad_mask)\n\n loss = F.ctc_loss(\n lprobs,\n targets_flat,\n input_lengths,\n target_lengths,\n blank=self.blank_idx,\n reduction=\"sum\",\n zero_infinity=True,\n )\n\n lprobs = lprobs.transpose(0, 1) # T N D -> N T D\n errors, total = compute_ctc_uer(\n lprobs, targets, input_lengths, target_lengths, self.blank_idx\n )\n\n if self.args.sentence_avg:\n sample_size = sample[\"target\"].size(0)\n else:\n if self.args.use_source_side_sample_size:\n sample_size = torch.sum(input_lengths).item()\n else:\n sample_size = sample[\"ntokens\"]\n\n logging_output = {\n \"loss\": utils.item(loss.data) if reduce else loss.data,\n \"ntokens\": sample[\"ntokens\"],\n \"nsentences\": sample[\"target\"].size(0),\n \"sample_size\": sample_size,\n \"errors\": errors,\n \"total\": total,\n \"nframes\": torch.sum(sample[\"net_input\"][\"src_lengths\"]).item(),\n }\n return loss, sample_size, logging_output\n\n @staticmethod\n def aggregate_logging_outputs(logging_outputs):\n \"\"\"Aggregate logging outputs from data parallel training.\"\"\"\n loss_sum = sum(log.get(\"loss\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n ntokens = sum(log.get(\"ntokens\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n nsentences = sum(log.get(\"nsentences\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n sample_size = sum(log.get(\"sample_size\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n errors = sum(log.get(\"errors\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n total = sum(log.get(\"total\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n nframes = sum(log.get(\"nframes\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n agg_output = {\n \"loss\": loss_sum / sample_size / math.log(2),\n \"ntokens\": ntokens,\n \"nsentences\": nsentences,\n \"nframes\": nframes,\n \"sample_size\": sample_size,\n \"acc\": 100.0 - min(errors * 100.0 / total, 100.0),\n }\n if sample_size != ntokens:\n agg_output[\"nll_loss\"] = loss_sum / ntokens / math.log(2)\n return agg_output\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/speech_recognition/criterions/__init__.py", "content": "import importlib\nimport os\n\n\n# ASG loss requires wav2letter\nblacklist = set()\ntry:\n import wav2letter\nexcept ImportError:\n blacklist.add(\"ASG_loss.py\")\n\nfor file in os.listdir(os.path.dirname(__file__)):\n if file.endswith(\".py\") and not file.startswith(\"_\") and file not in blacklist:\n criterion_name = file[: file.find(\".py\")]\n importlib.import_module(\n \"examples.speech_recognition.criterions.\" + criterion_name\n )\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/speech_recognition/criterions/cross_entropy_acc.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom __future__ import absolute_import, division, print_function, unicode_literals\n\nimport logging\nimport math\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\nfrom fairseq import utils\nfrom fairseq.criterions import FairseqCriterion, register_criterion\n\n\n@register_criterion(\"cross_entropy_acc\")\nclass CrossEntropyWithAccCriterion(FairseqCriterion):\n def __init__(self, args, task):\n super().__init__(args, task)\n\n def compute_loss(self, model, net_output, target, reduction, log_probs):\n # N, T -> N * T\n target = target.view(-1)\n lprobs = model.get_normalized_probs(net_output, log_probs=log_probs)\n if not hasattr(lprobs, \"batch_first\"):\n logging.warning(\n \"ERROR: we need to know whether \"\n \"batch first for the net output; \"\n \"you need to set batch_first attribute for the return value of \"\n \"model.get_normalized_probs. Now, we assume this is true, but \"\n \"in the future, we will raise exception instead. \"\n )\n batch_first = getattr(lprobs, \"batch_first\", True)\n if not batch_first:\n lprobs = lprobs.transpose(0, 1)\n\n # N, T, D -> N * T, D\n lprobs = lprobs.view(-1, lprobs.size(-1))\n loss = F.nll_loss(\n lprobs, target, ignore_index=self.padding_idx, reduction=reduction\n )\n return lprobs, loss\n\n def get_logging_output(self, sample, target, lprobs, loss):\n target = target.view(-1)\n mask = target != self.padding_idx\n correct = torch.sum(\n lprobs.argmax(1).masked_select(mask) == target.masked_select(mask)\n )\n total = torch.sum(mask)\n sample_size = (\n sample[\"target\"].size(0) if self.args.sentence_avg else sample[\"ntokens\"]\n )\n\n logging_output = {\n \"loss\": utils.item(loss.data), # * sample['ntokens'],\n \"ntokens\": sample[\"ntokens\"],\n \"nsentences\": sample[\"target\"].size(0),\n \"sample_size\": sample_size,\n \"correct\": utils.item(correct.data),\n \"total\": utils.item(total.data),\n \"nframes\": torch.sum(sample[\"net_input\"][\"src_lengths\"]).item(),\n }\n\n return sample_size, logging_output\n\n def forward(self, model, sample, reduction=\"sum\", log_probs=True):\n \"\"\"Computes the cross entropy with accuracy metric for the given sample.\n\n This is similar to CrossEntropyCriterion in fairseq, but also\n computes accuracy metrics as part of logging\n\n Args:\n logprobs (Torch.tensor) of shape N, T, D i.e.\n batchsize, timesteps, dimensions\n targets (Torch.tensor) of shape N, T i.e batchsize, timesteps\n\n Returns:\n tuple: With three elements:\n 1) the loss\n 2) the sample size, which is used as the denominator for the gradient\n 3) logging outputs to display while training\n\n TODO:\n * Currently this Criterion will only work with LSTMEncoderModels or\n FairseqModels which have decoder, or Models which return TorchTensor\n as net_output.\n We need to make a change to support all FairseqEncoder models.\n \"\"\"\n net_output = model(**sample[\"net_input\"])\n target = model.get_targets(sample, net_output)\n lprobs, loss = self.compute_loss(\n model, net_output, target, reduction, log_probs\n )\n sample_size, logging_output = self.get_logging_output(\n sample, target, lprobs, loss\n )\n return loss, sample_size, logging_output\n\n @staticmethod\n def aggregate_logging_outputs(logging_outputs):\n \"\"\"Aggregate logging outputs from data parallel training.\"\"\"\n correct_sum = sum(log.get(\"correct\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n total_sum = sum(log.get(\"total\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n loss_sum = sum(log.get(\"loss\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n ntokens = sum(log.get(\"ntokens\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n nsentences = sum(log.get(\"nsentences\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n sample_size = sum(log.get(\"sample_size\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n nframes = sum(log.get(\"nframes\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n agg_output = {\n \"loss\": loss_sum / sample_size / math.log(2) if sample_size > 0 else 0.0,\n # if args.sentence_avg, then sample_size is nsentences, then loss\n # is per-sentence loss; else sample_size is ntokens, the loss\n # becomes per-output token loss\n \"ntokens\": ntokens,\n \"nsentences\": nsentences,\n \"nframes\": nframes,\n \"sample_size\": sample_size,\n \"acc\": correct_sum * 100.0 / total_sum if total_sum > 0 else 0.0,\n \"correct\": correct_sum,\n \"total\": total_sum,\n # total is the number of validate tokens\n }\n if sample_size != ntokens:\n agg_output[\"nll_loss\"] = loss_sum / ntokens / math.log(2)\n # loss: per output token loss\n # nll_loss: per sentence loss\n return agg_output\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/speech_recognition/datasets/asr_prep_json.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom __future__ import absolute_import, division, print_function, unicode_literals\n\nfrom collections import namedtuple\nimport concurrent.futures\nfrom itertools import chain\nimport argparse\nimport os\nimport json\nimport sentencepiece as spm\nimport multiprocessing\nimport torchaudio\n\nfrom fairseq.data import Dictionary\n\nMILLISECONDS_TO_SECONDS = 0.001\n\n\ndef process_sample(aud_path, lable, utt_id, sp, tgt_dict):\n input = {}\n output = {}\n si, ei = torchaudio.info(aud_path)\n input[\"length_ms\"] = int(\n si.length / si.channels / si.rate / MILLISECONDS_TO_SECONDS\n )\n input[\"path\"] = aud_path\n\n token = \" \".join(sp.EncodeAsPieces(lable))\n ids = tgt_dict.encode_line(token, append_eos=False)\n output[\"text\"] = lable\n output[\"token\"] = token\n output[\"tokenid\"] = \", \".join(map(str, [t.tolist() for t in ids]))\n return {utt_id: {\"input\": input, \"output\": output}}\n\n\ndef main():\n parser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--audio-dirs\",\n nargs=\"+\",\n default=[\"-\"],\n required=True,\n help=\"input directories with audio files\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--labels\",\n required=True,\n help=\"aggregated input labels with format per line\",\n type=argparse.FileType(\"r\", encoding=\"UTF-8\"),\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--spm-model\",\n required=True,\n help=\"sentencepiece model to use for encoding\",\n type=argparse.FileType(\"r\", encoding=\"UTF-8\"),\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--dictionary\",\n required=True,\n help=\"file to load fairseq dictionary from\",\n type=argparse.FileType(\"r\", encoding=\"UTF-8\"),\n )\n parser.add_argument(\"--audio-format\", choices=[\"flac\", \"wav\"], default=\"wav\")\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--output\",\n required=True,\n type=argparse.FileType(\"w\"),\n help=\"path to save json output\",\n )\n args = parser.parse_args()\n\n sp = spm.SentencePieceProcessor()\n sp.Load(args.spm_model.name)\n\n tgt_dict = Dictionary.load(args.dictionary)\n\n labels = {}\n for line in args.labels:\n (utt_id, label) = line.split(\" \", 1)\n labels[utt_id] = label\n if len(labels) == 0:\n raise Exception(\"No labels found in \", args.labels_path)\n\n Sample = namedtuple(\"Sample\", \"aud_path utt_id\")\n samples = []\n for path, _, files in chain.from_iterable(\n os.walk(path) for path in args.audio_dirs\n ):\n for f in files:\n if f.endswith(args.audio_format):\n if len(os.path.splitext(f)) != 2:\n raise Exception(\"Expect file name. Got: \", f)\n utt_id = os.path.splitext(f)[0]\n if utt_id not in labels:\n continue\n samples.append(Sample(os.path.join(path, f), utt_id))\n\n utts = {}\n num_cpu = multiprocessing.cpu_count()\n with concurrent.futures.ThreadPoolExecutor(max_workers=num_cpu) as executor:\n future_to_sample = {\n executor.submit(\n process_sample, s.aud_path, labels[s.utt_id], s.utt_id, sp, tgt_dict\n ): s\n for s in samples\n }\n for future in concurrent.futures.as_completed(future_to_sample):\n try:\n data = future.result()\n except Exception as exc:\n print(\"generated an exception: \", exc)\n else:\n utts.update(data)\n json.dump({\"utts\": utts}, args.output, indent=4)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/speech_recognition/datasets/prepare-librispeech.sh", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env bash\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\n# Prepare librispeech dataset\n\nbase_url=www.openslr.org/resources/12\ntrain_dir=train_960\n\nif [ \"$#\" -ne 2 ]; then\n echo \"Usage: $0 \"\n echo \"e.g.: $0 /tmp/librispeech_raw/ ~/data/librispeech_final\"\n exit 1\nfi\n\ndownload_dir=${1%/}\nout_dir=${2%/}\n\nfairseq_root=~/fairseq-py/\nmkdir -p ${out_dir}\ncd ${out_dir} || exit\n\nnbpe=5000\nbpemode=unigram\n\nif [ ! -d \"$fairseq_root\" ]; then\n echo \"$0: Please set correct fairseq_root\"\n exit 1\nfi\n\necho \"Data Download\"\nfor part in dev-clean test-clean dev-other test-other train-clean-100 train-clean-360 train-other-500; do\n url=$base_url/$part.tar.gz\n if ! wget -P $download_dir $url; then\n echo \"$0: wget failed for $url\"\n exit 1\n fi\n if ! tar -C $download_dir -xvzf $download_dir/$part.tar.gz; then\n echo \"$0: error un-tarring archive $download_dir/$part.tar.gz\"\n exit 1\n fi\ndone\n\necho \"Merge all train packs into one\"\nmkdir -p ${download_dir}/LibriSpeech/${train_dir}/\nfor part in train-clean-100 train-clean-360 train-other-500; do\n mv ${download_dir}/LibriSpeech/${part}/* $download_dir/LibriSpeech/${train_dir}/\ndone\necho \"Merge train text\"\nfind ${download_dir}/LibriSpeech/${train_dir}/ -name '*.txt' -exec cat {} \\; >> ${download_dir}/LibriSpeech/${train_dir}/text\n\n# Use combined dev-clean and dev-other as validation set\nfind ${download_dir}/LibriSpeech/dev-clean/ ${download_dir}/LibriSpeech/dev-other/ -name '*.txt' -exec cat {} \\; >> ${download_dir}/LibriSpeech/valid_text\nfind ${download_dir}/LibriSpeech/test-clean/ -name '*.txt' -exec cat {} \\; >> ${download_dir}/LibriSpeech/test-clean/text\nfind ${download_dir}/LibriSpeech/test-other/ -name '*.txt' -exec cat {} \\; >> ${download_dir}/LibriSpeech/test-other/text\n\n\ndict=data/lang_char/${train_dir}_${bpemode}${nbpe}_units.txt\nencoded=data/lang_char/${train_dir}_${bpemode}${nbpe}_encoded.txt\nfairseq_dict=data/lang_char/${train_dir}_${bpemode}${nbpe}_fairseq_dict.txt\nbpemodel=data/lang_char/${train_dir}_${bpemode}${nbpe}\necho \"dictionary: ${dict}\"\necho \"Dictionary preparation\"\nmkdir -p data/lang_char/\necho \" 3\" > ${dict}\necho \" 2\" >> ${dict}\necho \" 1\" >> ${dict}\ncut -f 2- -d\" \" ${download_dir}/LibriSpeech/${train_dir}/text > data/lang_char/input.txt\nspm_train --input=data/lang_char/input.txt --vocab_size=${nbpe} --model_type=${bpemode} --model_prefix=${bpemodel} --input_sentence_size=100000000 --unk_id=3 --eos_id=2 --pad_id=1 --bos_id=-1 --character_coverage=1\nspm_encode --model=${bpemodel}.model --output_format=piece < data/lang_char/input.txt > ${encoded}\ncat ${encoded} | tr ' ' '\\n' | sort | uniq | awk '{print $0 \" \" NR+3}' >> ${dict}\ncat ${encoded} | tr ' ' '\\n' | sort | uniq -c | awk '{print $2 \" \" $1}' > ${fairseq_dict}\nwc -l ${dict}\n\necho \"Prepare train and test jsons\"\nfor part in train_960 test-other test-clean; do\n python ${fairseq_root}/examples/speech_recognition/datasets/asr_prep_json.py --audio-dirs ${download_dir}/LibriSpeech/${part} --labels ${download_dir}/LibriSpeech/${part}/text --spm-model ${bpemodel}.model --audio-format flac --dictionary ${fairseq_dict} --output ${part}.json\ndone\n# fairseq expects to find train.json and valid.json during training\nmv train_960.json train.json\n\necho \"Prepare valid json\"\npython ${fairseq_root}/examples/speech_recognition/datasets/asr_prep_json.py --audio-dirs ${download_dir}/LibriSpeech/dev-clean ${download_dir}/LibriSpeech/dev-other --labels ${download_dir}/LibriSpeech/valid_text --spm-model ${bpemodel}.model --audio-format flac --dictionary ${fairseq_dict} --output valid.json\n\ncp ${fairseq_dict} ./dict.txt\ncp ${bpemodel}.model ./spm.model\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/speech_recognition/infer.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3 -u\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\n\"\"\"\nRun inference for pre-processed data with a trained model.\n\"\"\"\n\nimport logging\nimport math\nimport os\n\nimport sentencepiece as spm\nimport torch\nfrom fairseq import checkpoint_utils, options, progress_bar, utils, tasks\nfrom fairseq.meters import StopwatchMeter, TimeMeter\nfrom fairseq.utils import import_user_module\n\n\nlogger = logging.getLogger(__name__)\nlogger.setLevel(logging.INFO)\n\n\ndef add_asr_eval_argument(parser):\n parser.add_argument(\"--kspmodel\", default=None, help=\"sentence piece model\")\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--wfstlm\", default=None, help=\"wfstlm on dictonary output units\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--rnnt_decoding_type\",\n default=\"greedy\",\n help=\"wfstlm on dictonary\\\noutput units\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--lm-weight\",\n \"--lm_weight\",\n type=float,\n default=0.2,\n help=\"weight for lm while interpolating with neural score\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--rnnt_len_penalty\", default=-0.5, help=\"rnnt length penalty on word level\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--w2l-decoder\", choices=[\"viterbi\", \"kenlm\"], help=\"use a w2l decoder\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\"--lexicon\", help=\"lexicon for w2l decoder\")\n parser.add_argument(\"--kenlm-model\", help=\"kenlm model for w2l decoder\")\n parser.add_argument(\"--beam-threshold\", type=float, default=25.0)\n parser.add_argument(\"--word-score\", type=float, default=1.0)\n parser.add_argument(\"--unk-weight\", type=float, default=-math.inf)\n parser.add_argument(\"--sil-weight\", type=float, default=0.0)\n return parser\n\n\ndef check_args(args):\n assert args.path is not None, \"--path required for generation!\"\n assert args.results_path is not None, \"--results_path required for generation!\"\n assert (\n not args.sampling or args.nbest == args.beam\n ), \"--sampling requires --nbest to be equal to --beam\"\n assert (\n args.replace_unk is None or args.raw_text\n ), \"--replace-unk requires a raw text dataset (--raw-text)\"\n\n\ndef get_dataset_itr(args, task):\n return task.get_batch_iterator(\n dataset=task.dataset(args.gen_subset),\n max_tokens=args.max_tokens,\n max_sentences=args.max_sentences,\n max_positions=(1000000.0, 1000000.0),\n ignore_invalid_inputs=args.skip_invalid_size_inputs_valid_test,\n required_batch_size_multiple=args.required_batch_size_multiple,\n num_shards=args.num_shards,\n shard_id=args.shard_id,\n num_workers=args.num_workers,\n ).next_epoch_itr(shuffle=False)\n\n\ndef process_predictions(\n args, hypos, sp, tgt_dict, target_tokens, res_files, speaker, id\n):\n for hypo in hypos[: min(len(hypos), args.nbest)]:\n hyp_pieces = tgt_dict.string(hypo[\"tokens\"].int().cpu())\n hyp_words = sp.DecodePieces(hyp_pieces.split())\n print(\n \"{} ({}-{})\".format(hyp_pieces, speaker, id), file=res_files[\"hypo.units\"]\n )\n print(\"{} ({}-{})\".format(hyp_words, speaker, id), file=res_files[\"hypo.words\"])\n\n tgt_pieces = tgt_dict.string(target_tokens)\n tgt_words = sp.DecodePieces(tgt_pieces.split())\n print(\"{} ({}-{})\".format(tgt_pieces, speaker, id), file=res_files[\"ref.units\"])\n print(\"{} ({}-{})\".format(tgt_words, speaker, id), file=res_files[\"ref.words\"])\n # only score top hypothesis\n if not args.quiet:\n logger.debug(\"HYPO:\" + hyp_words)\n logger.debug(\"TARGET:\" + tgt_words)\n logger.debug(\"___________________\")\n\n\ndef prepare_result_files(args):\n def get_res_file(file_prefix):\n path = os.path.join(\n args.results_path,\n \"{}-{}-{}.txt\".format(\n file_prefix, os.path.basename(args.path), args.gen_subset\n ),\n )\n return open(path, \"w\", buffering=1)\n\n return {\n \"hypo.words\": get_res_file(\"hypo.word\"),\n \"hypo.units\": get_res_file(\"hypo.units\"),\n \"ref.words\": get_res_file(\"ref.word\"),\n \"ref.units\": get_res_file(\"ref.units\"),\n }\n\n\ndef load_models_and_criterions(filenames, arg_overrides=None, task=None):\n models = []\n criterions = []\n for filename in filenames:\n if not os.path.exists(filename):\n raise IOError(\"Model file not found: {}\".format(filename))\n state = checkpoint_utils.load_checkpoint_to_cpu(filename, arg_overrides)\n\n args = state[\"args\"]\n if task is None:\n task = tasks.setup_task(args)\n\n # build model for ensemble\n model = task.build_model(args)\n model.load_state_dict(state[\"model\"], strict=True)\n models.append(model)\n\n criterion = task.build_criterion(args)\n if \"criterion\" in state:\n criterion.load_state_dict(state[\"criterion\"], strict=True)\n criterions.append(criterion)\n return models, criterions, args\n\n\ndef optimize_models(args, use_cuda, models):\n \"\"\"Optimize ensemble for generation\n \"\"\"\n for model in models:\n model.make_generation_fast_(\n beamable_mm_beam_size=None if args.no_beamable_mm else args.beam,\n need_attn=args.print_alignment,\n )\n if args.fp16:\n model.half()\n if use_cuda:\n model.cuda()\n\n\ndef main(args):\n check_args(args)\n import_user_module(args)\n\n if args.max_tokens is None and args.max_sentences is None:\n args.max_tokens = 30000\n logger.info(args)\n\n use_cuda = torch.cuda.is_available() and not args.cpu\n\n # Load dataset splits\n task = tasks.setup_task(args)\n task.load_dataset(args.gen_subset)\n logger.info(\n \"| {} {} {} examples\".format(\n args.data, args.gen_subset, len(task.dataset(args.gen_subset))\n )\n )\n\n # Set dictionary\n tgt_dict = task.target_dictionary\n\n logger.info(\"| decoding with criterion {}\".format(args.criterion))\n\n # Load ensemble\n logger.info(\"| loading model(s) from {}\".format(args.path))\n models, criterions, _model_args = load_models_and_criterions(\n args.path.split(\":\"),\n arg_overrides=eval(args.model_overrides), # noqa\n task=task,\n )\n optimize_models(args, use_cuda, models)\n\n # hack to pass transitions to W2lDecoder\n if args.criterion == \"asg_loss\":\n trans = criterions[0].asg.trans.data\n args.asg_transitions = torch.flatten(trans).tolist()\n\n # Load dataset (possibly sharded)\n itr = get_dataset_itr(args, task)\n\n # Initialize generator\n gen_timer = StopwatchMeter()\n generator = task.build_generator(args)\n\n num_sentences = 0\n\n if not os.path.exists(args.results_path):\n os.makedirs(args.results_path)\n\n sp = spm.SentencePieceProcessor()\n sp.Load(os.path.join(args.data, \"spm.model\"))\n\n res_files = prepare_result_files(args)\n with progress_bar.build_progress_bar(args, itr) as t:\n wps_meter = TimeMeter()\n for sample in t:\n sample = utils.move_to_cuda(sample) if use_cuda else sample\n if \"net_input\" not in sample:\n continue\n\n prefix_tokens = None\n if args.prefix_size > 0:\n prefix_tokens = sample[\"target\"][:, : args.prefix_size]\n\n gen_timer.start()\n hypos = task.inference_step(generator, models, sample, prefix_tokens)\n num_generated_tokens = sum(len(h[0][\"tokens\"]) for h in hypos)\n gen_timer.stop(num_generated_tokens)\n\n for i, sample_id in enumerate(sample[\"id\"].tolist()):\n speaker = task.dataset(args.gen_subset).speakers[int(sample_id)]\n id = task.dataset(args.gen_subset).ids[int(sample_id)]\n target_tokens = (\n utils.strip_pad(sample[\"target\"][i, :], tgt_dict.pad()).int().cpu()\n )\n # Process top predictions\n process_predictions(\n args, hypos[i], sp, tgt_dict, target_tokens, res_files, speaker, id\n )\n\n wps_meter.update(num_generated_tokens)\n t.log({\"wps\": round(wps_meter.avg)})\n num_sentences += sample[\"nsentences\"]\n\n logger.info(\n \"| Processed {} sentences ({} tokens) in {:.1f}s ({:.2f}\"\n \"sentences/s, {:.2f} tokens/s)\".format(\n num_sentences,\n gen_timer.n,\n gen_timer.sum,\n num_sentences / gen_timer.sum,\n 1.0 / gen_timer.avg,\n )\n )\n logger.info(\"| Generate {} with beam={}\".format(args.gen_subset, args.beam))\n\n\ndef cli_main():\n parser = options.get_generation_parser()\n parser = add_asr_eval_argument(parser)\n args = options.parse_args_and_arch(parser)\n main(args)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n cli_main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/speech_recognition/models/__init__.py", "content": "import importlib\nimport os\n\nfor file in os.listdir(os.path.dirname(__file__)):\n if file.endswith(\".py\") and not file.startswith(\"_\"):\n model_name = file[: file.find(\".py\")]\n importlib.import_module(\"examples.speech_recognition.models.\" + model_name)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/speech_recognition/models/vggtransformer.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport argparse\nimport math\nfrom collections.abc import Iterable\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn as nn\nfrom fairseq import utils\nfrom fairseq.models import (\n FairseqEncoder,\n FairseqEncoderModel,\n FairseqIncrementalDecoder,\n FairseqEncoderDecoderModel,\n register_model,\n register_model_architecture,\n)\nfrom fairseq.modules import LinearizedConvolution\nfrom examples.speech_recognition.data.data_utils import lengths_to_encoder_padding_mask\nfrom fairseq.modules import TransformerDecoderLayer, TransformerEncoderLayer, VGGBlock\n\n\n@register_model(\"asr_vggtransformer\")\nclass VGGTransformerModel(FairseqEncoderDecoderModel):\n \"\"\"\n Transformers with convolutional context for ASR\n https://arxiv.org/abs/1904.11660\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, encoder, decoder):\n super().__init__(encoder, decoder)\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add model-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--input-feat-per-channel\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"encoder input dimension per input channel\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--vggblock-enc-config\",\n type=str,\n metavar=\"EXPR\",\n help=\"\"\"\n an array of tuples each containing the configuration of one vggblock:\n [(out_channels,\n conv_kernel_size,\n pooling_kernel_size,\n num_conv_layers,\n use_layer_norm), ...])\n \"\"\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--transformer-enc-config\",\n type=str,\n metavar=\"EXPR\",\n help=\"\"\"\"\n a tuple containing the configuration of the encoder transformer layers\n configurations:\n [(input_dim,\n num_heads,\n ffn_dim,\n normalize_before,\n dropout,\n attention_dropout,\n relu_dropout), ...]')\n \"\"\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--enc-output-dim\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"\"\"\n encoder output dimension, can be None. If specified, projecting the\n transformer output to the specified dimension\"\"\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--in-channels\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"number of encoder input channels\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--tgt-embed-dim\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"embedding dimension of the decoder target tokens\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--transformer-dec-config\",\n type=str,\n metavar=\"EXPR\",\n help=\"\"\"\n a tuple containing the configuration of the decoder transformer layers\n configurations:\n [(input_dim,\n num_heads,\n ffn_dim,\n normalize_before,\n dropout,\n attention_dropout,\n relu_dropout), ...]\n \"\"\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--conv-dec-config\",\n type=str,\n metavar=\"EXPR\",\n help=\"\"\"\n an array of tuples for the decoder 1-D convolution config\n [(out_channels, conv_kernel_size, use_layer_norm), ...]\"\"\",\n )\n\n @classmethod\n def build_encoder(cls, args, task):\n return VGGTransformerEncoder(\n input_feat_per_channel=args.input_feat_per_channel,\n vggblock_config=eval(args.vggblock_enc_config),\n transformer_config=eval(args.transformer_enc_config),\n encoder_output_dim=args.enc_output_dim,\n in_channels=args.in_channels,\n )\n\n @classmethod\n def build_decoder(cls, args, task):\n return TransformerDecoder(\n dictionary=task.target_dictionary,\n embed_dim=args.tgt_embed_dim,\n transformer_config=eval(args.transformer_dec_config),\n conv_config=eval(args.conv_dec_config),\n encoder_output_dim=args.enc_output_dim,\n )\n\n @classmethod\n def build_model(cls, args, task):\n \"\"\"Build a new model instance.\"\"\"\n # make sure that all args are properly defaulted\n # (in case there are any new ones)\n base_architecture(args)\n\n encoder = cls.build_encoder(args, task)\n decoder = cls.build_decoder(args, task)\n return cls(encoder, decoder)\n\n def get_normalized_probs(self, net_output, log_probs, sample=None):\n # net_output['encoder_out'] is a (B, T, D) tensor\n lprobs = super().get_normalized_probs(net_output, log_probs, sample)\n lprobs.batch_first = True\n return lprobs\n\n\nDEFAULT_ENC_VGGBLOCK_CONFIG = ((32, 3, 2, 2, False),) * 2\nDEFAULT_ENC_TRANSFORMER_CONFIG = ((256, 4, 1024, True, 0.2, 0.2, 0.2),) * 2\n# 256: embedding dimension\n# 4: number of heads\n# 1024: FFN\n# True: apply layerNorm before (dropout + resiaul) instead of after\n# 0.2 (dropout): dropout after MultiheadAttention and second FC\n# 0.2 (attention_dropout): dropout in MultiheadAttention\n# 0.2 (relu_dropout): dropout after ReLu\nDEFAULT_DEC_TRANSFORMER_CONFIG = ((256, 2, 1024, True, 0.2, 0.2, 0.2),) * 2\nDEFAULT_DEC_CONV_CONFIG = ((256, 3, True),) * 2\n\n\n# TODO: repace transformer encoder config from one liner\n# to explicit args to get rid of this transformation\ndef prepare_transformer_encoder_params(\n input_dim,\n num_heads,\n ffn_dim,\n normalize_before,\n dropout,\n attention_dropout,\n relu_dropout,\n):\n args = argparse.Namespace()\n args.encoder_embed_dim = input_dim\n args.encoder_attention_heads = num_heads\n args.attention_dropout = attention_dropout\n args.dropout = dropout\n args.activation_dropout = relu_dropout\n args.encoder_normalize_before = normalize_before\n args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim = ffn_dim\n return args\n\n\ndef prepare_transformer_decoder_params(\n input_dim,\n num_heads,\n ffn_dim,\n normalize_before,\n dropout,\n attention_dropout,\n relu_dropout,\n):\n args = argparse.Namespace()\n args.decoder_embed_dim = input_dim\n args.decoder_attention_heads = num_heads\n args.attention_dropout = attention_dropout\n args.dropout = dropout\n args.activation_dropout = relu_dropout\n args.decoder_normalize_before = normalize_before\n args.decoder_ffn_embed_dim = ffn_dim\n return args\n\n\nclass VGGTransformerEncoder(FairseqEncoder):\n \"\"\"VGG + Transformer encoder\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self,\n input_feat_per_channel,\n vggblock_config=DEFAULT_ENC_VGGBLOCK_CONFIG,\n transformer_config=DEFAULT_ENC_TRANSFORMER_CONFIG,\n encoder_output_dim=512,\n in_channels=1,\n transformer_context=None,\n transformer_sampling=None,\n ):\n \"\"\"constructor for VGGTransformerEncoder\n\n Args:\n - input_feat_per_channel: feature dim (not including stacked,\n just base feature)\n - in_channel: # input channels (e.g., if stack 8 feature vector\n together, this is 8)\n - vggblock_config: configuration of vggblock, see comments on\n DEFAULT_ENC_VGGBLOCK_CONFIG\n - transformer_config: configuration of transformer layer, see comments\n on DEFAULT_ENC_TRANSFORMER_CONFIG\n - encoder_output_dim: final transformer output embedding dimension\n - transformer_context: (left, right) if set, self-attention will be focused\n on (t-left, t+right)\n - transformer_sampling: an iterable of int, must match with\n len(transformer_config), transformer_sampling[i] indicates sampling\n factor for i-th transformer layer, after multihead att and feedfoward\n part\n \"\"\"\n super().__init__(None)\n\n self.num_vggblocks = 0\n if vggblock_config is not None:\n if not isinstance(vggblock_config, Iterable):\n raise ValueError(\"vggblock_config is not iterable\")\n self.num_vggblocks = len(vggblock_config)\n\n self.conv_layers = nn.ModuleList()\n self.in_channels = in_channels\n self.input_dim = input_feat_per_channel\n\n if vggblock_config is not None:\n for _, config in enumerate(vggblock_config):\n (\n out_channels,\n conv_kernel_size,\n pooling_kernel_size,\n num_conv_layers,\n layer_norm,\n ) = config\n self.conv_layers.append(\n VGGBlock(\n in_channels,\n out_channels,\n conv_kernel_size,\n pooling_kernel_size,\n num_conv_layers,\n input_dim=input_feat_per_channel,\n layer_norm=layer_norm,\n )\n )\n in_channels = out_channels\n input_feat_per_channel = self.conv_layers[-1].output_dim\n\n transformer_input_dim = self.infer_conv_output_dim(\n self.in_channels, self.input_dim\n )\n # transformer_input_dim is the output dimension of VGG part\n\n self.validate_transformer_config(transformer_config)\n self.transformer_context = self.parse_transformer_context(transformer_context)\n self.transformer_sampling = self.parse_transformer_sampling(\n transformer_sampling, len(transformer_config)\n )\n\n self.transformer_layers = nn.ModuleList()\n\n if transformer_input_dim != transformer_config[0][0]:\n self.transformer_layers.append(\n Linear(transformer_input_dim, transformer_config[0][0])\n )\n self.transformer_layers.append(\n TransformerEncoderLayer(\n prepare_transformer_encoder_params(*transformer_config[0])\n )\n )\n\n for i in range(1, len(transformer_config)):\n if transformer_config[i - 1][0] != transformer_config[i][0]:\n self.transformer_layers.append(\n Linear(transformer_config[i - 1][0], transformer_config[i][0])\n )\n self.transformer_layers.append(\n TransformerEncoderLayer(\n prepare_transformer_encoder_params(*transformer_config[i])\n )\n )\n\n self.encoder_output_dim = encoder_output_dim\n self.transformer_layers.extend(\n [\n Linear(transformer_config[-1][0], encoder_output_dim),\n LayerNorm(encoder_output_dim),\n ]\n )\n\n def forward(self, src_tokens, src_lengths, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"\n src_tokens: padded tensor (B, T, C * feat)\n src_lengths: tensor of original lengths of input utterances (B,)\n \"\"\"\n bsz, max_seq_len, _ = src_tokens.size()\n x = src_tokens.view(bsz, max_seq_len, self.in_channels, self.input_dim)\n x = x.transpose(1, 2).contiguous()\n # (B, C, T, feat)\n\n for layer_idx in range(len(self.conv_layers)):\n x = self.conv_layers[layer_idx](x)\n\n bsz, _, output_seq_len, _ = x.size()\n\n # (B, C, T, feat) -> (B, T, C, feat) -> (T, B, C, feat) -> (T, B, C * feat)\n x = x.transpose(1, 2).transpose(0, 1)\n x = x.contiguous().view(output_seq_len, bsz, -1)\n\n subsampling_factor = int(max_seq_len * 1.0 / output_seq_len + 0.5)\n # TODO: shouldn't subsampling_factor determined in advance ?\n input_lengths = (src_lengths.float() / subsampling_factor).ceil().long()\n\n encoder_padding_mask, _ = lengths_to_encoder_padding_mask(\n input_lengths, batch_first=True\n )\n if not encoder_padding_mask.any():\n encoder_padding_mask = None\n\n attn_mask = self.lengths_to_attn_mask(input_lengths, subsampling_factor)\n\n transformer_layer_idx = 0\n\n for layer_idx in range(len(self.transformer_layers)):\n\n if isinstance(self.transformer_layers[layer_idx], TransformerEncoderLayer):\n x = self.transformer_layers[layer_idx](\n x, encoder_padding_mask, attn_mask\n )\n\n if self.transformer_sampling[transformer_layer_idx] != 1:\n sampling_factor = self.transformer_sampling[transformer_layer_idx]\n x, encoder_padding_mask, attn_mask = self.slice(\n x, encoder_padding_mask, attn_mask, sampling_factor\n )\n\n transformer_layer_idx += 1\n\n else:\n x = self.transformer_layers[layer_idx](x)\n\n # encoder_padding_maks is a (T x B) tensor, its [t, b] elements indicate\n # whether encoder_output[t, b] is valid or not (valid=0, invalid=1)\n\n return {\n \"encoder_out\": x, # (T, B, C)\n \"encoder_padding_mask\": encoder_padding_mask.t()\n if encoder_padding_mask is not None\n else None,\n # (B, T) --> (T, B)\n }\n\n def infer_conv_output_dim(self, in_channels, input_dim):\n sample_seq_len = 200\n sample_bsz = 10\n x = torch.randn(sample_bsz, in_channels, sample_seq_len, input_dim)\n for i, _ in enumerate(self.conv_layers):\n x = self.conv_layers[i](x)\n x = x.transpose(1, 2)\n mb, seq = x.size()[:2]\n return x.contiguous().view(mb, seq, -1).size(-1)\n\n def validate_transformer_config(self, transformer_config):\n for config in transformer_config:\n input_dim, num_heads = config[:2]\n if input_dim % num_heads != 0:\n msg = (\n \"ERROR in transformer config {}:\".format(config)\n + \"input dimension {} \".format(input_dim)\n + \"not dividable by number of heads\".format(num_heads)\n )\n raise ValueError(msg)\n\n def parse_transformer_context(self, transformer_context):\n \"\"\"\n transformer_context can be the following:\n - None; indicates no context is used, i.e.,\n transformer can access full context\n - a tuple/list of two int; indicates left and right context,\n any number <0 indicates infinite context\n * e.g., (5, 6) indicates that for query at x_t, transformer can\n access [t-5, t+6] (inclusive)\n * e.g., (-1, 6) indicates that for query at x_t, transformer can\n access [0, t+6] (inclusive)\n \"\"\"\n if transformer_context is None:\n return None\n\n if not isinstance(transformer_context, Iterable):\n raise ValueError(\"transformer context must be Iterable if it is not None\")\n\n if len(transformer_context) != 2:\n raise ValueError(\"transformer context must have length 2\")\n\n left_context = transformer_context[0]\n if left_context < 0:\n left_context = None\n\n right_context = transformer_context[1]\n if right_context < 0:\n right_context = None\n\n if left_context is None and right_context is None:\n return None\n\n return (left_context, right_context)\n\n def parse_transformer_sampling(self, transformer_sampling, num_layers):\n \"\"\"\n parsing transformer sampling configuration\n\n Args:\n - transformer_sampling, accepted input:\n * None, indicating no sampling\n * an Iterable with int (>0) as element\n - num_layers, expected number of transformer layers, must match with\n the length of transformer_sampling if it is not None\n\n Returns:\n - A tuple with length num_layers\n \"\"\"\n if transformer_sampling is None:\n return (1,) * num_layers\n\n if not isinstance(transformer_sampling, Iterable):\n raise ValueError(\n \"transformer_sampling must be an iterable if it is not None\"\n )\n\n if len(transformer_sampling) != num_layers:\n raise ValueError(\n \"transformer_sampling {} does not match with the number \"\n + \"of layers {}\".format(transformer_sampling, num_layers)\n )\n\n for layer, value in enumerate(transformer_sampling):\n if not isinstance(value, int):\n raise ValueError(\"Invalid value in transformer_sampling: \")\n if value < 1:\n raise ValueError(\n \"{} layer's subsampling is {}.\".format(layer, value)\n + \" This is not allowed! \"\n )\n return transformer_sampling\n\n def slice(self, embedding, padding_mask, attn_mask, sampling_factor):\n \"\"\"\n embedding is a (T, B, D) tensor\n padding_mask is a (B, T) tensor or None\n attn_mask is a (T, T) tensor or None\n \"\"\"\n embedding = embedding[::sampling_factor, :, :]\n if padding_mask is not None:\n padding_mask = padding_mask[:, ::sampling_factor]\n if attn_mask is not None:\n attn_mask = attn_mask[::sampling_factor, ::sampling_factor]\n\n return embedding, padding_mask, attn_mask\n\n def lengths_to_attn_mask(self, input_lengths, subsampling_factor=1):\n \"\"\"\n create attention mask according to sequence lengths and transformer\n context\n\n Args:\n - input_lengths: (B, )-shape Int/Long tensor; input_lengths[b] is\n the length of b-th sequence\n - subsampling_factor: int\n * Note that the left_context and right_context is specified in\n the input frame-level while input to transformer may already\n go through subsampling (e.g., the use of striding in vggblock)\n we use subsampling_factor to scale the left/right context\n\n Return:\n - a (T, T) binary tensor or None, where T is max(input_lengths)\n * if self.transformer_context is None, None\n * if left_context is None,\n * attn_mask[t, t + right_context + 1:] = 1\n * others = 0\n * if right_context is None,\n * attn_mask[t, 0:t - left_context] = 1\n * others = 0\n * elsif\n * attn_mask[t, t - left_context: t + right_context + 1] = 0\n * others = 1\n \"\"\"\n if self.transformer_context is None:\n return None\n\n maxT = torch.max(input_lengths).item()\n attn_mask = torch.zeros(maxT, maxT)\n\n left_context = self.transformer_context[0]\n right_context = self.transformer_context[1]\n if left_context is not None:\n left_context = math.ceil(self.transformer_context[0] / subsampling_factor)\n if right_context is not None:\n right_context = math.ceil(self.transformer_context[1] / subsampling_factor)\n\n for t in range(maxT):\n if left_context is not None:\n st = 0\n en = max(st, t - left_context)\n attn_mask[t, st:en] = 1\n if right_context is not None:\n st = t + right_context + 1\n st = min(st, maxT - 1)\n attn_mask[t, st:] = 1\n\n return attn_mask.to(input_lengths.device)\n\n def reorder_encoder_out(self, encoder_out, new_order):\n encoder_out[\"encoder_out\"] = encoder_out[\"encoder_out\"].index_select(\n 1, new_order\n )\n if encoder_out[\"encoder_padding_mask\"] is not None:\n encoder_out[\"encoder_padding_mask\"] = encoder_out[\n \"encoder_padding_mask\"\n ].index_select(1, new_order)\n return encoder_out\n\n\nclass TransformerDecoder(FairseqIncrementalDecoder):\n \"\"\"\n Transformer decoder consisting of *args.decoder_layers* layers. Each layer\n is a :class:`TransformerDecoderLayer`.\n Args:\n args (argparse.Namespace): parsed command-line arguments\n dictionary (~fairseq.data.Dictionary): decoding dictionary\n embed_tokens (torch.nn.Embedding): output embedding\n no_encoder_attn (bool, optional): whether to attend to encoder outputs.\n Default: ``False``\n left_pad (bool, optional): whether the input is left-padded. Default:\n ``False``\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self,\n dictionary,\n embed_dim=512,\n transformer_config=DEFAULT_ENC_TRANSFORMER_CONFIG,\n conv_config=DEFAULT_DEC_CONV_CONFIG,\n encoder_output_dim=512,\n ):\n\n super().__init__(dictionary)\n vocab_size = len(dictionary)\n self.padding_idx = dictionary.pad()\n self.embed_tokens = Embedding(vocab_size, embed_dim, self.padding_idx)\n\n self.conv_layers = nn.ModuleList()\n for i in range(len(conv_config)):\n out_channels, kernel_size, layer_norm = conv_config[i]\n if i == 0:\n conv_layer = LinearizedConv1d(\n embed_dim, out_channels, kernel_size, padding=kernel_size - 1\n )\n else:\n conv_layer = LinearizedConv1d(\n conv_config[i - 1][0],\n out_channels,\n kernel_size,\n padding=kernel_size - 1,\n )\n self.conv_layers.append(conv_layer)\n if layer_norm:\n self.conv_layers.append(nn.LayerNorm(out_channels))\n self.conv_layers.append(nn.ReLU())\n\n self.layers = nn.ModuleList()\n if conv_config[-1][0] != transformer_config[0][0]:\n self.layers.append(Linear(conv_config[-1][0], transformer_config[0][0]))\n self.layers.append(\n TransformerDecoderLayer(\n prepare_transformer_decoder_params(*transformer_config[0])\n )\n )\n\n for i in range(1, len(transformer_config)):\n if transformer_config[i - 1][0] != transformer_config[i][0]:\n self.layers.append(\n Linear(transformer_config[i - 1][0], transformer_config[i][0])\n )\n self.layers.append(\n TransformerDecoderLayer(\n prepare_transformer_decoder_params(*transformer_config[i])\n )\n )\n self.fc_out = Linear(transformer_config[-1][0], vocab_size)\n\n def forward(self, prev_output_tokens, encoder_out=None, incremental_state=None):\n \"\"\"\n Args:\n prev_output_tokens (LongTensor): previous decoder outputs of shape\n `(batch, tgt_len)`, for input feeding/teacher forcing\n encoder_out (Tensor, optional): output from the encoder, used for\n encoder-side attention\n incremental_state (dict): dictionary used for storing state during\n :ref:`Incremental decoding`\n Returns:\n tuple:\n - the last decoder layer's output of shape `(batch, tgt_len,\n vocab)`\n - the last decoder layer's attention weights of shape `(batch,\n tgt_len, src_len)`\n \"\"\"\n target_padding_mask = (\n (prev_output_tokens == self.padding_idx).to(prev_output_tokens.device)\n if incremental_state is None\n else None\n )\n\n if incremental_state is not None:\n prev_output_tokens = prev_output_tokens[:, -1:]\n\n # embed tokens\n x = self.embed_tokens(prev_output_tokens)\n\n # B x T x C -> T x B x C\n x = self._transpose_if_training(x, incremental_state)\n\n for layer in self.conv_layers:\n if isinstance(layer, LinearizedConvolution):\n x = layer(x, incremental_state)\n else:\n x = layer(x)\n\n # B x T x C -> T x B x C\n x = self._transpose_if_inference(x, incremental_state)\n\n # decoder layers\n for layer in self.layers:\n if isinstance(layer, TransformerDecoderLayer):\n x, _ = layer(\n x,\n (encoder_out[\"encoder_out\"] if encoder_out is not None else None),\n (\n encoder_out[\"encoder_padding_mask\"].t()\n if encoder_out[\"encoder_padding_mask\"] is not None\n else None\n ),\n incremental_state,\n self_attn_mask=(\n self.buffered_future_mask(x)\n if incremental_state is None\n else None\n ),\n self_attn_padding_mask=(\n target_padding_mask if incremental_state is None else None\n ),\n )\n else:\n x = layer(x)\n\n # T x B x C -> B x T x C\n x = x.transpose(0, 1)\n\n x = self.fc_out(x)\n\n return x, None\n\n def buffered_future_mask(self, tensor):\n dim = tensor.size(0)\n if (\n not hasattr(self, \"_future_mask\")\n or self._future_mask is None\n or self._future_mask.device != tensor.device\n ):\n self._future_mask = torch.triu(\n utils.fill_with_neg_inf(tensor.new(dim, dim)), 1\n )\n if self._future_mask.size(0) < dim:\n self._future_mask = torch.triu(\n utils.fill_with_neg_inf(self._future_mask.resize_(dim, dim)), 1\n )\n return self._future_mask[:dim, :dim]\n\n def _transpose_if_training(self, x, incremental_state):\n if incremental_state is None:\n x = x.transpose(0, 1)\n return x\n\n def _transpose_if_inference(self, x, incremental_state):\n if incremental_state:\n x = x.transpose(0, 1)\n return x\n\n\n@register_model(\"asr_vggtransformer_encoder\")\nclass VGGTransformerEncoderModel(FairseqEncoderModel):\n def __init__(self, encoder):\n super().__init__(encoder)\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add model-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--input-feat-per-channel\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"encoder input dimension per input channel\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--vggblock-enc-config\",\n type=str,\n metavar=\"EXPR\",\n help=\"\"\"\n an array of tuples each containing the configuration of one vggblock\n [(out_channels, conv_kernel_size, pooling_kernel_size,num_conv_layers), ...]\n \"\"\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--transformer-enc-config\",\n type=str,\n metavar=\"EXPR\",\n help=\"\"\"\n a tuple containing the configuration of the Transformer layers\n configurations:\n [(input_dim,\n num_heads,\n ffn_dim,\n normalize_before,\n dropout,\n attention_dropout,\n relu_dropout), ]\"\"\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--enc-output-dim\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"encoder output dimension, projecting the LSTM output\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--in-channels\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"number of encoder input channels\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--transformer-context\",\n type=str,\n metavar=\"EXPR\",\n help=\"\"\"\n either None or a tuple of two ints, indicating left/right context a\n transformer can have access to\"\"\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--transformer-sampling\",\n type=str,\n metavar=\"EXPR\",\n help=\"\"\"\n either None or a tuple of ints, indicating sampling factor in each layer\"\"\",\n )\n\n @classmethod\n def build_model(cls, args, task):\n \"\"\"Build a new model instance.\"\"\"\n base_architecture_enconly(args)\n encoder = VGGTransformerEncoderOnly(\n vocab_size=len(task.target_dictionary),\n input_feat_per_channel=args.input_feat_per_channel,\n vggblock_config=eval(args.vggblock_enc_config),\n transformer_config=eval(args.transformer_enc_config),\n encoder_output_dim=args.enc_output_dim,\n in_channels=args.in_channels,\n transformer_context=eval(args.transformer_context),\n transformer_sampling=eval(args.transformer_sampling),\n )\n return cls(encoder)\n\n def get_normalized_probs(self, net_output, log_probs, sample=None):\n # net_output['encoder_out'] is a (T, B, D) tensor\n lprobs = super().get_normalized_probs(net_output, log_probs, sample)\n # lprobs is a (T, B, D) tensor\n # we need to transoose to get (B, T, D) tensor\n lprobs = lprobs.transpose(0, 1).contiguous()\n lprobs.batch_first = True\n return lprobs\n\n\nclass VGGTransformerEncoderOnly(VGGTransformerEncoder):\n def __init__(\n self,\n vocab_size,\n input_feat_per_channel,\n vggblock_config=DEFAULT_ENC_VGGBLOCK_CONFIG,\n transformer_config=DEFAULT_ENC_TRANSFORMER_CONFIG,\n encoder_output_dim=512,\n in_channels=1,\n transformer_context=None,\n transformer_sampling=None,\n ):\n super().__init__(\n input_feat_per_channel=input_feat_per_channel,\n vggblock_config=vggblock_config,\n transformer_config=transformer_config,\n encoder_output_dim=encoder_output_dim,\n in_channels=in_channels,\n transformer_context=transformer_context,\n transformer_sampling=transformer_sampling,\n )\n self.fc_out = Linear(self.encoder_output_dim, vocab_size)\n\n def forward(self, src_tokens, src_lengths, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"\n src_tokens: padded tensor (B, T, C * feat)\n src_lengths: tensor of original lengths of input utterances (B,)\n \"\"\"\n\n enc_out = super().forward(src_tokens, src_lengths)\n x = self.fc_out(enc_out[\"encoder_out\"])\n # x = F.log_softmax(x, dim=-1)\n # Note: no need this line, because model.get_normalized_prob will call\n # log_softmax\n return {\n \"encoder_out\": x, # (T, B, C)\n \"encoder_padding_mask\": enc_out[\"encoder_padding_mask\"], # (T, B)\n }\n\n def max_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Maximum input length supported by the encoder.\"\"\"\n return (1e6, 1e6) # an arbitrary large number\n\n\ndef Embedding(num_embeddings, embedding_dim, padding_idx):\n m = nn.Embedding(num_embeddings, embedding_dim, padding_idx=padding_idx)\n # nn.init.uniform_(m.weight, -0.1, 0.1)\n # nn.init.constant_(m.weight[padding_idx], 0)\n return m\n\n\ndef Linear(in_features, out_features, bias=True, dropout=0):\n \"\"\"Linear layer (input: N x T x C)\"\"\"\n m = nn.Linear(in_features, out_features, bias=bias)\n # m.weight.data.uniform_(-0.1, 0.1)\n # if bias:\n # m.bias.data.uniform_(-0.1, 0.1)\n return m\n\n\ndef LinearizedConv1d(in_channels, out_channels, kernel_size, dropout=0, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Weight-normalized Conv1d layer optimized for decoding\"\"\"\n m = LinearizedConvolution(in_channels, out_channels, kernel_size, **kwargs)\n std = math.sqrt((4 * (1.0 - dropout)) / (m.kernel_size[0] * in_channels))\n nn.init.normal_(m.weight, mean=0, std=std)\n nn.init.constant_(m.bias, 0)\n return nn.utils.weight_norm(m, dim=2)\n\n\ndef LayerNorm(embedding_dim):\n m = nn.LayerNorm(embedding_dim)\n return m\n\n\n# seq2seq models\ndef base_architecture(args):\n args.input_feat_per_channel = getattr(args, \"input_feat_per_channel\", 40)\n args.vggblock_enc_config = getattr(\n args, \"vggblock_enc_config\", DEFAULT_ENC_VGGBLOCK_CONFIG\n )\n args.transformer_enc_config = getattr(\n args, \"transformer_enc_config\", DEFAULT_ENC_TRANSFORMER_CONFIG\n )\n args.enc_output_dim = getattr(args, \"enc_output_dim\", 512)\n args.in_channels = getattr(args, \"in_channels\", 1)\n args.tgt_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"tgt_embed_dim\", 128)\n args.transformer_dec_config = getattr(\n args, \"transformer_dec_config\", DEFAULT_ENC_TRANSFORMER_CONFIG\n )\n args.conv_dec_config = getattr(args, \"conv_dec_config\", DEFAULT_DEC_CONV_CONFIG)\n args.transformer_context = getattr(args, \"transformer_context\", \"None\")\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"asr_vggtransformer\", \"vggtransformer_1\")\ndef vggtransformer_1(args):\n args.input_feat_per_channel = getattr(args, \"input_feat_per_channel\", 80)\n args.vggblock_enc_config = getattr(\n args, \"vggblock_enc_config\", \"[(64, 3, 2, 2, True), (128, 3, 2, 2, True)]\"\n )\n args.transformer_enc_config = getattr(\n args,\n \"transformer_enc_config\",\n \"((1024, 16, 4096, True, 0.15, 0.15, 0.15),) * 14\",\n )\n args.enc_output_dim = getattr(args, \"enc_output_dim\", 1024)\n args.tgt_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"tgt_embed_dim\", 128)\n args.conv_dec_config = getattr(args, \"conv_dec_config\", \"((256, 3, True),) * 4\")\n args.transformer_dec_config = getattr(\n args,\n \"transformer_dec_config\",\n \"((1024, 16, 4096, True, 0.15, 0.15, 0.15),) * 4\",\n )\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"asr_vggtransformer\", \"vggtransformer_2\")\ndef vggtransformer_2(args):\n args.input_feat_per_channel = getattr(args, \"input_feat_per_channel\", 80)\n args.vggblock_enc_config = getattr(\n args, \"vggblock_enc_config\", \"[(64, 3, 2, 2, True), (128, 3, 2, 2, True)]\"\n )\n args.transformer_enc_config = getattr(\n args,\n \"transformer_enc_config\",\n \"((1024, 16, 4096, True, 0.15, 0.15, 0.15),) * 16\",\n )\n args.enc_output_dim = getattr(args, \"enc_output_dim\", 1024)\n args.tgt_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"tgt_embed_dim\", 512)\n args.conv_dec_config = getattr(args, \"conv_dec_config\", \"((256, 3, True),) * 4\")\n args.transformer_dec_config = getattr(\n args,\n \"transformer_dec_config\",\n \"((1024, 16, 4096, True, 0.15, 0.15, 0.15),) * 6\",\n )\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"asr_vggtransformer\", \"vggtransformer_base\")\ndef vggtransformer_base(args):\n args.input_feat_per_channel = getattr(args, \"input_feat_per_channel\", 80)\n args.vggblock_enc_config = getattr(\n args, \"vggblock_enc_config\", \"[(64, 3, 2, 2, True), (128, 3, 2, 2, True)]\"\n )\n args.transformer_enc_config = getattr(\n args, \"transformer_enc_config\", \"((512, 8, 2048, True, 0.15, 0.15, 0.15),) * 12\"\n )\n\n args.enc_output_dim = getattr(args, \"enc_output_dim\", 512)\n args.tgt_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"tgt_embed_dim\", 512)\n args.conv_dec_config = getattr(args, \"conv_dec_config\", \"((256, 3, True),) * 4\")\n args.transformer_dec_config = getattr(\n args, \"transformer_dec_config\", \"((512, 8, 2048, True, 0.15, 0.15, 0.15),) * 6\"\n )\n # Size estimations:\n # Encoder:\n # - vggblock param: 64*1*3*3 + 64*64*3*3 + 128*64*3*3 + 128*128*3 = 258K\n # Transformer:\n # - input dimension adapter: 2560 x 512 -> 1.31M\n # - transformer_layers (x12) --> 37.74M\n # * MultiheadAttention: 512*512*3 (in_proj) + 512*512 (out_proj) = 1.048M\n # * FFN weight: 512*2048*2 = 2.097M\n # - output dimension adapter: 512 x 512 -> 0.26 M\n # Decoder:\n # - LinearizedConv1d: 512 * 256 * 3 + 256 * 256 * 3 * 3\n # - transformer_layer: (x6) --> 25.16M\n # * MultiheadAttention (self-attention): 512*512*3 + 512*512 = 1.048M\n # * MultiheadAttention (encoder-attention): 512*512*3 + 512*512 = 1.048M\n # * FFN: 512*2048*2 = 2.097M\n # Final FC:\n # - FC: 512*5000 = 256K (assuming vocab size 5K)\n # In total:\n # ~65 M\n\n\n# CTC models\ndef base_architecture_enconly(args):\n args.input_feat_per_channel = getattr(args, \"input_feat_per_channel\", 40)\n args.vggblock_enc_config = getattr(\n args, \"vggblock_enc_config\", \"[(32, 3, 2, 2, True)] * 2\"\n )\n args.transformer_enc_config = getattr(\n args, \"transformer_enc_config\", \"((256, 4, 1024, True, 0.2, 0.2, 0.2),) * 2\"\n )\n args.enc_output_dim = getattr(args, \"enc_output_dim\", 512)\n args.in_channels = getattr(args, \"in_channels\", 1)\n args.transformer_context = getattr(args, \"transformer_context\", \"None\")\n args.transformer_sampling = getattr(args, \"transformer_sampling\", \"None\")\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"asr_vggtransformer_encoder\", \"vggtransformer_enc_1\")\ndef vggtransformer_enc_1(args):\n # vggtransformer_1 is the same as vggtransformer_enc_big, except the number\n # of layers is increased to 16\n # keep it here for backward compatiablity purpose\n args.input_feat_per_channel = getattr(args, \"input_feat_per_channel\", 80)\n args.vggblock_enc_config = getattr(\n args, \"vggblock_enc_config\", \"[(64, 3, 2, 2, True), (128, 3, 2, 2, True)]\"\n )\n args.transformer_enc_config = getattr(\n args,\n \"transformer_enc_config\",\n \"((1024, 16, 4096, True, 0.15, 0.15, 0.15),) * 16\",\n )\n args.enc_output_dim = getattr(args, \"enc_output_dim\", 1024)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/speech_recognition/models/w2l_conv_glu_enc.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3\n\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport math\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn as nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\nfrom fairseq.models import (\n FairseqEncoder,\n FairseqEncoderModel,\n register_model,\n register_model_architecture,\n)\n\n\ndefault_conv_enc_config = \"\"\"[ \n (400, 13, 170, 0.2),\n (440, 14, 0, 0.214),\n (484, 15, 0, 0.22898),\n (532, 16, 0, 0.2450086),\n (584, 17, 0, 0.262159202),\n (642, 18, 0, 0.28051034614),\n (706, 19, 0, 0.30014607037),\n (776, 20, 0, 0.321156295296),\n (852, 21, 0, 0.343637235966),\n (936, 22, 0, 0.367691842484),\n (1028, 23, 0, 0.393430271458),\n (1130, 24, 0, 0.42097039046),\n (1242, 25, 0, 0.450438317792),\n (1366, 26, 0, 0.481969000038),\n (1502, 27, 0, 0.51570683004),\n (1652, 28, 0, 0.551806308143),\n (1816, 29, 0, 0.590432749713),\n]\"\"\"\n\n\n@register_model(\"asr_w2l_conv_glu_encoder\")\nclass W2lConvGluEncoderModel(FairseqEncoderModel):\n def __init__(self, encoder):\n super().__init__(encoder)\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add model-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--input-feat-per-channel\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"encoder input dimension per input channel\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--in-channels\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"number of encoder input channels\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--conv-enc-config\",\n type=str,\n metavar=\"EXPR\",\n help=\"\"\"\n an array of tuples each containing the configuration of one conv layer\n [(out_channels, kernel_size, padding, dropout), ...]\n \"\"\",\n )\n\n @classmethod\n def build_model(cls, args, task):\n \"\"\"Build a new model instance.\"\"\"\n conv_enc_config = getattr(args, \"conv_enc_config\", default_conv_enc_config)\n encoder = W2lConvGluEncoder(\n vocab_size=len(task.target_dictionary),\n input_feat_per_channel=args.input_feat_per_channel,\n in_channels=args.in_channels,\n conv_enc_config=eval(conv_enc_config),\n )\n return cls(encoder)\n\n def get_normalized_probs(self, net_output, log_probs, sample=None):\n lprobs = super().get_normalized_probs(net_output, log_probs, sample)\n lprobs.batch_first = False\n return lprobs\n\n\nclass W2lConvGluEncoder(FairseqEncoder):\n def __init__(\n self, vocab_size, input_feat_per_channel, in_channels, conv_enc_config\n ):\n super().__init__(None)\n\n self.input_dim = input_feat_per_channel\n if in_channels != 1:\n raise ValueError(\"only 1 input channel is currently supported\")\n\n self.conv_layers = nn.ModuleList()\n self.linear_layers = nn.ModuleList()\n self.dropouts = []\n cur_channels = input_feat_per_channel\n\n for out_channels, kernel_size, padding, dropout in conv_enc_config:\n layer = nn.Conv1d(cur_channels, out_channels, kernel_size, padding=padding)\n layer.weight.data.mul_(math.sqrt(3)) # match wav2letter init\n self.conv_layers.append(nn.utils.weight_norm(layer))\n self.dropouts.append(dropout)\n if out_channels % 2 != 0:\n raise ValueError(\"odd # of out_channels is incompatible with GLU\")\n cur_channels = out_channels // 2 # halved by GLU\n\n for out_channels in [2 * cur_channels, vocab_size]:\n layer = nn.Linear(cur_channels, out_channels)\n layer.weight.data.mul_(math.sqrt(3))\n self.linear_layers.append(nn.utils.weight_norm(layer))\n cur_channels = out_channels // 2\n\n def forward(self, src_tokens, src_lengths, **kwargs):\n\n \"\"\"\n src_tokens: padded tensor (B, T, C * feat)\n src_lengths: tensor of original lengths of input utterances (B,)\n \"\"\"\n B, T, _ = src_tokens.size()\n x = src_tokens.transpose(1, 2).contiguous() # (B, feat, T) assuming C == 1\n\n for layer_idx in range(len(self.conv_layers)):\n x = self.conv_layers[layer_idx](x)\n x = F.glu(x, dim=1)\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropouts[layer_idx], training=self.training)\n\n x = x.transpose(1, 2).contiguous() # (B, T, 908)\n x = self.linear_layers[0](x)\n x = F.glu(x, dim=2)\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropouts[-1])\n x = self.linear_layers[1](x)\n\n assert x.size(0) == B\n assert x.size(1) == T\n\n encoder_out = x.transpose(0, 1) # (T, B, vocab_size)\n\n # need to debug this -- find a simpler/elegant way in pytorch APIs\n encoder_padding_mask = (\n torch.arange(T).view(1, T).expand(B, -1).to(x.device)\n >= src_lengths.view(B, 1).expand(-1, T)\n ).t() # (B x T) -> (T x B)\n\n return {\n \"encoder_out\": encoder_out, # (T, B, vocab_size)\n \"encoder_padding_mask\": encoder_padding_mask, # (T, B)\n }\n\n def reorder_encoder_out(self, encoder_out, new_order):\n encoder_out[\"encoder_out\"] = encoder_out[\"encoder_out\"].index_select(\n 1, new_order\n )\n encoder_out[\"encoder_padding_mask\"] = encoder_out[\n \"encoder_padding_mask\"\n ].index_select(1, new_order)\n return encoder_out\n\n def max_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Maximum input length supported by the encoder.\"\"\"\n return (1e6, 1e6) # an arbitrary large number\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"asr_w2l_conv_glu_encoder\", \"w2l_conv_glu_enc\")\ndef w2l_conv_glu_enc(args):\n args.input_feat_per_channel = getattr(args, \"input_feat_per_channel\", 80)\n args.in_channels = getattr(args, \"in_channels\", 1)\n args.conv_enc_config = getattr(args, \"conv_enc_config\", default_conv_enc_config)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/speech_recognition/tasks/__init__.py", "content": "import importlib\nimport os\n\nfor file in os.listdir(os.path.dirname(__file__)):\n if file.endswith(\".py\") and not file.startswith(\"_\"):\n task_name = file[: file.find(\".py\")]\n importlib.import_module(\"examples.speech_recognition.tasks.\" + task_name)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/speech_recognition/tasks/speech_recognition.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport json\nimport os\nimport re\n\nimport torch\nfrom fairseq.data import Dictionary\nfrom fairseq.tasks import FairseqTask, register_task\nfrom examples.speech_recognition.data import AsrDataset\nfrom examples.speech_recognition.data.replabels import replabel_symbol\n\n\ndef get_asr_dataset_from_json(data_json_path, tgt_dict):\n \"\"\"\n Parse data json and create dataset.\n See scripts/asr_prep_json.py which pack json from raw files\n\n Json example:\n {\n \"utts\": {\n \"4771-29403-0025\": {\n \"input\": {\n \"length_ms\": 170,\n \"path\": \"/tmp/file1.flac\"\n },\n \"output\": {\n \"text\": \"HELLO \\n\",\n \"token\": \"HE LLO\",\n \"tokenid\": \"4815, 861\"\n }\n },\n \"1564-142299-0096\": {\n ...\n }\n }\n \"\"\"\n if not os.path.isfile(data_json_path):\n raise FileNotFoundError(\"Dataset not found: {}\".format(data_json_path))\n with open(data_json_path, \"rb\") as f:\n data_samples = json.load(f)[\"utts\"]\n assert len(data_samples) != 0\n sorted_samples = sorted(\n data_samples.items(),\n key=lambda sample: int(sample[1][\"input\"][\"length_ms\"]),\n reverse=True,\n )\n aud_paths = [s[1][\"input\"][\"path\"] for s in sorted_samples]\n ids = [s[0] for s in sorted_samples]\n speakers = []\n for s in sorted_samples:\n m = re.search(\"(.+?)-(.+?)-(.+?)\", s[0])\n speakers.append(m.group(1) + \"_\" + m.group(2))\n frame_sizes = [s[1][\"input\"][\"length_ms\"] for s in sorted_samples]\n tgt = [\n torch.LongTensor([int(i) for i in s[1][\"output\"][\"tokenid\"].split(\", \")])\n for s in sorted_samples\n ]\n # append eos\n tgt = [torch.cat([t, torch.LongTensor([tgt_dict.eos()])]) for t in tgt]\n return AsrDataset(aud_paths, frame_sizes, tgt, tgt_dict, ids, speakers)\n\n\n@register_task(\"speech_recognition\")\nclass SpeechRecognitionTask(FairseqTask):\n \"\"\"\n Task for training speech recognition model.\n \"\"\"\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add task-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n parser.add_argument(\"data\", help=\"path to data directory\")\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--silence-token\", default=\"\\u2581\", help=\"token for silence (used by w2l)\"\n )\n\n def __init__(self, args, tgt_dict):\n super().__init__(args)\n self.tgt_dict = tgt_dict\n\n @classmethod\n def setup_task(cls, args, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Setup the task (e.g., load dictionaries).\"\"\"\n dict_path = os.path.join(args.data, \"dict.txt\")\n if not os.path.isfile(dict_path):\n raise FileNotFoundError(\"Dict not found: {}\".format(dict_path))\n tgt_dict = Dictionary.load(dict_path)\n\n if args.criterion == \"ctc_loss\":\n tgt_dict.add_symbol(\"\")\n elif args.criterion == \"asg_loss\":\n for i in range(1, args.max_replabel + 1):\n tgt_dict.add_symbol(replabel_symbol(i))\n\n print(\"| dictionary: {} types\".format(len(tgt_dict)))\n return cls(args, tgt_dict)\n\n def load_dataset(self, split, combine=False, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Load a given dataset split.\n\n Args:\n split (str): name of the split (e.g., train, valid, test)\n \"\"\"\n data_json_path = os.path.join(self.args.data, \"{}.json\".format(split))\n self.datasets[split] = get_asr_dataset_from_json(data_json_path, self.tgt_dict)\n\n def build_generator(self, args):\n w2l_decoder = getattr(args, \"w2l_decoder\", None)\n if w2l_decoder == \"viterbi\":\n from examples.speech_recognition.w2l_decoder import W2lViterbiDecoder\n\n return W2lViterbiDecoder(args, self.target_dictionary)\n elif w2l_decoder == \"kenlm\":\n from examples.speech_recognition.w2l_decoder import W2lKenLMDecoder\n\n return W2lKenLMDecoder(args, self.target_dictionary)\n else:\n return super().build_generator(args)\n\n @property\n def target_dictionary(self):\n \"\"\"Return the :class:`~fairseq.data.Dictionary` for the language\n model.\"\"\"\n return self.tgt_dict\n\n @property\n def source_dictionary(self):\n \"\"\"Return the source :class:`~fairseq.data.Dictionary` (if applicable\n for this task).\"\"\"\n return None\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/speech_recognition/utils/wer_utils.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3\n\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom __future__ import absolute_import, division, print_function, unicode_literals\n\nimport re\nfrom collections import deque\nfrom enum import Enum\n\nimport numpy as np\n\n\n\"\"\"\n Utility modules for computation of Word Error Rate,\n Alignments, as well as more granular metrics like\n deletion, insersion and substitutions.\n\"\"\"\n\n\nclass Code(Enum):\n match = 1\n substitution = 2\n insertion = 3\n deletion = 4\n\n\nclass Token(object):\n def __init__(self, lbl=\"\", st=np.nan, en=np.nan):\n if np.isnan(st):\n self.label, self.start, self.end = \"\", 0.0, 0.0\n else:\n self.label, self.start, self.end = lbl, st, en\n\n\nclass AlignmentResult(object):\n def __init__(self, refs, hyps, codes, score):\n self.refs = refs # std::deque\n self.hyps = hyps # std::deque\n self.codes = codes # std::deque\n self.score = score # float\n\n\ndef coordinate_to_offset(row, col, ncols):\n return int(row * ncols + col)\n\n\ndef offset_to_row(offset, ncols):\n return int(offset / ncols)\n\n\ndef offset_to_col(offset, ncols):\n return int(offset % ncols)\n\n\ndef trimWhitespace(str):\n return re.sub(\" +\", \" \", re.sub(\" *$\", \"\", re.sub(\"^ *\", \"\", str)))\n\n\ndef str2toks(str):\n pieces = trimWhitespace(str).split(\" \")\n toks = []\n for p in pieces:\n toks.append(Token(p, 0.0, 0.0))\n return toks\n\n\nclass EditDistance(object):\n def __init__(self, time_mediated):\n self.time_mediated_ = time_mediated\n self.scores_ = np.nan # Eigen::Matrix\n self.backtraces_ = (\n np.nan\n ) # Eigen::Matrix backtraces_;\n self.confusion_pairs_ = {}\n\n def cost(self, ref, hyp, code):\n if self.time_mediated_:\n if code == Code.match:\n return abs(ref.start - hyp.start) + abs(ref.end - hyp.end)\n elif code == Code.insertion:\n return hyp.end - hyp.start\n elif code == Code.deletion:\n return ref.end - ref.start\n else: # substitution\n return abs(ref.start - hyp.start) + abs(ref.end - hyp.end) + 0.1\n else:\n if code == Code.match:\n return 0\n elif code == Code.insertion or code == Code.deletion:\n return 3\n else: # substitution\n return 4\n\n def get_result(self, refs, hyps):\n res = AlignmentResult(refs=deque(), hyps=deque(), codes=deque(), score=np.nan)\n\n num_rows, num_cols = self.scores_.shape\n res.score = self.scores_[num_rows - 1, num_cols - 1]\n\n curr_offset = coordinate_to_offset(num_rows - 1, num_cols - 1, num_cols)\n\n while curr_offset != 0:\n curr_row = offset_to_row(curr_offset, num_cols)\n curr_col = offset_to_col(curr_offset, num_cols)\n\n prev_offset = self.backtraces_[curr_row, curr_col]\n\n prev_row = offset_to_row(prev_offset, num_cols)\n prev_col = offset_to_col(prev_offset, num_cols)\n\n res.refs.appendleft(curr_row - 1) # Note: this was .push_front() in C++\n res.hyps.appendleft(curr_col - 1)\n if curr_row - 1 == prev_row and curr_col == prev_col:\n res.codes.appendleft(Code.deletion)\n elif curr_row == prev_row and curr_col - 1 == prev_col:\n res.codes.appendleft(Code.insertion)\n else:\n # assert(curr_row - 1 == prev_row and curr_col - 1 == prev_col)\n ref_str = refs[res.refs[0]].label\n hyp_str = hyps[res.hyps[0]].label\n\n if ref_str == hyp_str:\n res.codes.appendleft(Code.match)\n else:\n res.codes.appendleft(Code.substitution)\n\n confusion_pair = \"%s -> %s\" % (ref_str, hyp_str)\n if confusion_pair not in self.confusion_pairs_:\n self.confusion_pairs_[confusion_pair] = 1\n else:\n self.confusion_pairs_[confusion_pair] += 1\n\n curr_offset = prev_offset\n\n return res\n\n def align(self, refs, hyps):\n if len(refs) == 0 and len(hyps) == 0:\n return np.nan\n\n # NOTE: we're not resetting the values in these matrices because every value\n # will be overridden in the loop below. If this assumption doesn't hold,\n # be sure to set all entries in self.scores_ and self.backtraces_ to 0.\n self.scores_ = np.zeros((len(refs) + 1, len(hyps) + 1))\n self.backtraces_ = np.zeros((len(refs) + 1, len(hyps) + 1))\n\n num_rows, num_cols = self.scores_.shape\n\n for i in range(num_rows):\n for j in range(num_cols):\n if i == 0 and j == 0:\n self.scores_[i, j] = 0.0\n self.backtraces_[i, j] = 0\n continue\n\n if i == 0:\n self.scores_[i, j] = self.scores_[i, j - 1] + self.cost(\n None, hyps[j - 1], Code.insertion\n )\n self.backtraces_[i, j] = coordinate_to_offset(i, j - 1, num_cols)\n continue\n\n if j == 0:\n self.scores_[i, j] = self.scores_[i - 1, j] + self.cost(\n refs[i - 1], None, Code.deletion\n )\n self.backtraces_[i, j] = coordinate_to_offset(i - 1, j, num_cols)\n continue\n\n # Below here both i and j are greater than 0\n ref = refs[i - 1]\n hyp = hyps[j - 1]\n best_score = self.scores_[i - 1, j - 1] + (\n self.cost(ref, hyp, Code.match)\n if (ref.label == hyp.label)\n else self.cost(ref, hyp, Code.substitution)\n )\n\n prev_row = i - 1\n prev_col = j - 1\n ins = self.scores_[i, j - 1] + self.cost(None, hyp, Code.insertion)\n if ins < best_score:\n best_score = ins\n prev_row = i\n prev_col = j - 1\n\n delt = self.scores_[i - 1, j] + self.cost(ref, None, Code.deletion)\n if delt < best_score:\n best_score = delt\n prev_row = i - 1\n prev_col = j\n\n self.scores_[i, j] = best_score\n self.backtraces_[i, j] = coordinate_to_offset(\n prev_row, prev_col, num_cols\n )\n\n return self.get_result(refs, hyps)\n\n\nclass WERTransformer(object):\n def __init__(self, hyp_str, ref_str, verbose=True):\n self.ed_ = EditDistance(False)\n self.id2oracle_errs_ = {}\n self.utts_ = 0\n self.words_ = 0\n self.insertions_ = 0\n self.deletions_ = 0\n self.substitutions_ = 0\n\n self.process([\"dummy_str\", hyp_str, ref_str])\n\n if verbose:\n print(\"'%s' vs '%s'\" % (hyp_str, ref_str))\n self.report_result()\n\n def process(self, input): # std::vector&& input\n if len(input) < 3:\n print(\n \"Input must be of the form ... , got \",\n len(input),\n \" inputs:\",\n )\n return None\n\n # Align\n # std::vector hyps;\n # std::vector refs;\n\n hyps = str2toks(input[-2])\n refs = str2toks(input[-1])\n\n alignment = self.ed_.align(refs, hyps)\n if alignment is None:\n print(\"Alignment is null\")\n return np.nan\n\n # Tally errors\n ins = 0\n dels = 0\n subs = 0\n for code in alignment.codes:\n if code == Code.substitution:\n subs += 1\n elif code == Code.insertion:\n ins += 1\n elif code == Code.deletion:\n dels += 1\n\n # Output\n row = input\n row.append(str(len(refs)))\n row.append(str(ins))\n row.append(str(dels))\n row.append(str(subs))\n # print(row)\n\n # Accumulate\n kIdIndex = 0\n kNBestSep = \"/\"\n\n pieces = input[kIdIndex].split(kNBestSep)\n\n if len(pieces) == 0:\n print(\n \"Error splitting \",\n input[kIdIndex],\n \" on '\",\n kNBestSep,\n \"', got empty list\",\n )\n return np.nan\n\n id = pieces[0]\n if id not in self.id2oracle_errs_:\n self.utts_ += 1\n self.words_ += len(refs)\n self.insertions_ += ins\n self.deletions_ += dels\n self.substitutions_ += subs\n self.id2oracle_errs_[id] = [ins, dels, subs]\n else:\n curr_err = ins + dels + subs\n prev_err = np.sum(self.id2oracle_errs_[id])\n if curr_err < prev_err:\n self.id2oracle_errs_[id] = [ins, dels, subs]\n\n return 0\n\n def report_result(self):\n # print(\"---------- Summary ---------------\")\n if self.words_ == 0:\n print(\"No words counted\")\n return\n\n # 1-best\n best_wer = (\n 100.0\n * (self.insertions_ + self.deletions_ + self.substitutions_)\n / self.words_\n )\n\n print(\n \"\\tWER = %0.2f%% (%i utts, %i words, %0.2f%% ins, \"\n \"%0.2f%% dels, %0.2f%% subs)\"\n % (\n best_wer,\n self.utts_,\n self.words_,\n 100.0 * self.insertions_ / self.words_,\n 100.0 * self.deletions_ / self.words_,\n 100.0 * self.substitutions_ / self.words_,\n )\n )\n\n def wer(self):\n if self.words_ == 0:\n wer = np.nan\n else:\n wer = (\n 100.0\n * (self.insertions_ + self.deletions_ + self.substitutions_)\n / self.words_\n )\n return wer\n\n def stats(self):\n if self.words_ == 0:\n stats = {}\n else:\n wer = (\n 100.0\n * (self.insertions_ + self.deletions_ + self.substitutions_)\n / self.words_\n )\n stats = dict(\n {\n \"wer\": wer,\n \"utts\": self.utts_,\n \"numwords\": self.words_,\n \"ins\": self.insertions_,\n \"dels\": self.deletions_,\n \"subs\": self.substitutions_,\n \"confusion_pairs\": self.ed_.confusion_pairs_,\n }\n )\n return stats\n\n\ndef calc_wer(hyp_str, ref_str):\n t = WERTransformer(hyp_str, ref_str, verbose=0)\n return t.wer()\n\n\ndef calc_wer_stats(hyp_str, ref_str):\n t = WERTransformer(hyp_str, ref_str, verbose=0)\n return t.stats()\n\n\ndef get_wer_alignment_codes(hyp_str, ref_str):\n \"\"\"\n INPUT: hypothesis string, reference string\n OUTPUT: List of alignment codes (intermediate results from WER computation)\n \"\"\"\n t = WERTransformer(hyp_str, ref_str, verbose=0)\n return t.ed_.align(str2toks(ref_str), str2toks(hyp_str)).codes\n\n\ndef merge_counts(x, y):\n # Merge two hashes which have 'counts' as their values\n # This can be used for example to merge confusion pair counts\n # conf_pairs = merge_counts(conf_pairs, stats['confusion_pairs'])\n for k, v in y.items():\n if k not in x:\n x[k] = 0\n x[k] += v\n return x\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/speech_recognition/w2l_decoder.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3\n\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\n\"\"\"\nWav2letter decoders.\n\"\"\"\nimport math\nimport itertools as it\nimport torch\nfrom fairseq import utils\nfrom examples.speech_recognition.data.replabels import unpack_replabels\nfrom wav2letter.common import create_word_dict, load_words\nfrom wav2letter.criterion import CpuViterbiPath, get_data_ptr_as_bytes\nfrom wav2letter.decoder import (\n CriterionType,\n DecoderOptions,\n KenLM,\n SmearingMode,\n Trie,\n WordLMDecoder,\n)\n\n\nclass W2lDecoder(object):\n def __init__(self, args, tgt_dict):\n self.tgt_dict = tgt_dict\n self.vocab_size = len(tgt_dict)\n self.nbest = args.nbest\n\n # criterion-specific init\n if args.criterion == \"ctc_loss\":\n self.criterion_type = CriterionType.CTC\n self.blank = tgt_dict.index(\"\")\n self.asg_transitions = None\n elif args.criterion == \"asg_loss\":\n self.criterion_type = CriterionType.ASG\n self.blank = -1\n self.asg_transitions = args.asg_transitions\n self.max_replabel = args.max_replabel\n assert len(self.asg_transitions) == self.vocab_size ** 2\n else:\n raise RuntimeError(f\"unknown criterion: {args.criterion}\")\n\n def generate(self, models, sample, prefix_tokens=None):\n \"\"\"Generate a batch of inferences.\"\"\"\n # model.forward normally channels prev_output_tokens into the decoder\n # separately, but SequenceGenerator directly calls model.encoder\n encoder_input = {\n k: v for k, v in sample[\"net_input\"].items() if k != \"prev_output_tokens\"\n }\n emissions = self.get_emissions(models, encoder_input)\n return self.decode(emissions)\n\n def get_emissions(self, models, encoder_input):\n \"\"\"Run encoder and normalize emissions\"\"\"\n encoder_out = models[0].encoder(**encoder_input)\n if self.criterion_type == CriterionType.CTC:\n emissions = models[0].get_normalized_probs(encoder_out, log_probs=True)\n elif self.criterion_type == CriterionType.ASG:\n emissions = encoder_out[\"encoder_out\"]\n return emissions.transpose(0, 1).float().cpu().contiguous()\n\n def get_tokens(self, idxs):\n \"\"\"Normalize tokens by handling CTC blank, ASG replabels, etc.\"\"\"\n idxs = (g[0] for g in it.groupby(idxs))\n idxs = filter(lambda x: x >= 0, idxs)\n if self.criterion_type == CriterionType.CTC:\n idxs = filter(lambda x: x != self.blank, idxs)\n elif self.criterion_type == CriterionType.ASG:\n idxs = unpack_replabels(list(idxs), self.tgt_dict, self.max_replabel)\n return torch.LongTensor(list(idxs))\n\n\nclass W2lViterbiDecoder(W2lDecoder):\n def __init__(self, args, tgt_dict):\n super().__init__(args, tgt_dict)\n\n def decode(self, emissions):\n B, T, N = emissions.size()\n hypos = []\n if self.asg_transitions is None:\n transitions = torch.FloatTensor(N, N).zero_()\n else:\n transitions = torch.FloatTensor(self.asg_transitions).view(N, N)\n viterbi_path = torch.IntTensor(B, T)\n workspace = torch.ByteTensor(CpuViterbiPath.get_workspace_size(B, T, N))\n CpuViterbiPath.compute(\n B,\n T,\n N,\n get_data_ptr_as_bytes(emissions),\n get_data_ptr_as_bytes(transitions),\n get_data_ptr_as_bytes(viterbi_path),\n get_data_ptr_as_bytes(workspace),\n )\n return [\n [{\"tokens\": self.get_tokens(viterbi_path[b].tolist()), \"score\": 0}]\n for b in range(B)\n ]\n\n\nclass W2lKenLMDecoder(W2lDecoder):\n def __init__(self, args, tgt_dict):\n super().__init__(args, tgt_dict)\n\n self.silence = tgt_dict.index(args.silence_token)\n\n self.lexicon = load_words(args.lexicon)\n self.word_dict = create_word_dict(self.lexicon)\n self.unk_word = self.word_dict.get_index(\"\")\n\n self.lm = KenLM(args.kenlm_model, self.word_dict)\n self.trie = Trie(self.vocab_size, self.silence)\n\n start_state = self.lm.start(False)\n for word, spellings in self.lexicon.items():\n word_idx = self.word_dict.get_index(word)\n _, score = self.lm.score(start_state, word_idx)\n for spelling in spellings:\n spelling_idxs = [tgt_dict.index(token) for token in spelling]\n self.trie.insert(spelling_idxs, word_idx, score)\n self.trie.smear(SmearingMode.MAX)\n\n self.decoder_opts = DecoderOptions(\n args.beam,\n args.beam_threshold,\n args.lm_weight,\n args.word_score,\n args.unk_weight,\n False,\n args.sil_weight,\n self.criterion_type,\n )\n\n self.decoder = WordLMDecoder(\n self.decoder_opts,\n self.trie,\n self.lm,\n self.silence,\n self.blank,\n self.unk_word,\n self.asg_transitions,\n )\n\n def decode(self, emissions):\n B, T, N = emissions.size()\n hypos = []\n for b in range(B):\n emissions_ptr = emissions.data_ptr() + 4 * b * emissions.stride(0)\n nbest_results = self.decoder.decode(emissions_ptr, T, N)[: self.nbest]\n hypos.append(\n [\n {\"tokens\": self.get_tokens(result.tokens), \"score\": result.score}\n for result in nbest_results\n ]\n )\n return hypos\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/stories/README.md", "content": "# Hierarchical Neural Story Generation (Fan et al., 2018)\n\nThe following commands provide an example of pre-processing data, training a model, and generating text for story generation with the WritingPrompts dataset.\n\n## Pre-trained models\n\nDescription | Dataset | Model | Test set(s)\n---|---|---|---\nStories with Convolutional Model
([Fan et al., 2018](https://arxiv.org/abs/1805.04833)) | [WritingPrompts](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/writingPrompts.tar.gz) | [download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/stories_checkpoint.tar.bz2) | [download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/stories_test.tar.bz2)\n\nWe provide sample stories generated by the [convolutional seq2seq model](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/seq2seq_stories.txt) and [fusion model](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/fusion_stories.txt) from [Fan et al., 2018](https://arxiv.org/abs/1805.04833). The corresponding prompts for the fusion model can be found [here](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/fusion_prompts.txt). Note that there are unk in the file, as we modeled a small full vocabulary (no BPE or pre-training). We did not use these unk prompts for human evaluation.\n\n## Dataset\n\nThe dataset can be downloaded like this:\n\n```bash\ncd examples/stories\ncurl https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/writingPrompts.tar.gz | tar xvzf -\n```\n\nand contains a train, test, and valid split. The dataset is described here: https://arxiv.org/abs/1805.04833. We model only the first 1000 words of each story, including one newLine token.\n\n## Example usage\n\nFirst we will preprocess the dataset. Note that the dataset release is the full data, but the paper models the first 1000 words of each story. Here is example code that trims the dataset to the first 1000 words of each story:\n```python\ndata = [\"train\", \"test\", \"valid\"]\nfor name in data:\n with open(name + \".wp_target\") as f:\n stories = f.readlines()\n stories = [\" \".join(i.split()[0:1000]) for i in stories]\n with open(name + \".wp_target\", \"w\") as o:\n for line in stories:\n o.write(line.strip() + \"\\n\")\n```\n\nOnce we've trimmed the data we can binarize it and train our model:\n```bash\n# Binarize the dataset:\nexport TEXT=examples/stories/writingPrompts\nfairseq-preprocess --source-lang wp_source --target-lang wp_target \\\n --trainpref $TEXT/train --validpref $TEXT/valid --testpref $TEXT/test \\\n --destdir data-bin/writingPrompts --padding-factor 1 --thresholdtgt 10 --thresholdsrc 10\n\n# Train the model:\nfairseq-train data-bin/writingPrompts -a fconv_self_att_wp --lr 0.25 --clip-norm 0.1 --max-tokens 1500 --lr-scheduler reduce_lr_on_plateau --decoder-attention True --encoder-attention False --criterion label_smoothed_cross_entropy --weight-decay .0000001 --label-smoothing 0 --source-lang wp_source --target-lang wp_target --gated-attention True --self-attention True --project-input True --pretrained False\n\n# Train a fusion model:\n# add the arguments: --pretrained True --pretrained-checkpoint path/to/checkpoint\n\n# Generate:\n# Note: to load the pretrained model at generation time, you need to pass in a model-override argument to communicate to the fusion model at generation time where you have placed the pretrained checkpoint. By default, it will load the exact path of the fusion model's pretrained model from training time. You should use model-override if you have moved the pretrained model (or are using our provided models). If you are generating from a non-fusion model, the model-override argument is not necessary.\n\nfairseq-generate data-bin/writingPrompts --path /path/to/trained/model/checkpoint_best.pt --batch-size 32 --beam 1 --sampling --sampling-topk 10 --temperature 0.8 --nbest 1 --model-overrides \"{'pretrained_checkpoint':'/path/to/pretrained/model/checkpoint'}\"\n```\n\n## Citation\n```bibtex\n@inproceedings{fan2018hierarchical,\n title = {Hierarchical Neural Story Generation},\n author = {Fan, Angela and Lewis, Mike and Dauphin, Yann},\n booktitle = {Conference of the Association for Computational Linguistics (ACL)},\n year = 2018,\n}\n```\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/translation/README.md", "content": "# Neural Machine Translation\n\nThis README contains instructions for [using pretrained translation models](#example-usage-torchhub)\nas well as [training new models](#training-a-new-model).\n\n## Pre-trained models\n\nModel | Description | Dataset | Download\n---|---|---|---\n`conv.wmt14.en-fr` | Convolutional
([Gehring et al., 2017](https://arxiv.org/abs/1705.03122)) | [WMT14 English-French](http://statmt.org/wmt14/translation-task.html#Download) | model:
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt14.v2.en-fr.fconv-py.tar.bz2)
newstest2014:
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/wmt14.v2.en-fr.newstest2014.tar.bz2)
newstest2012/2013:
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/wmt14.v2.en-fr.ntst1213.tar.bz2)\n`conv.wmt14.en-de` | Convolutional
([Gehring et al., 2017](https://arxiv.org/abs/1705.03122)) | [WMT14 English-German](http://statmt.org/wmt14/translation-task.html#Download) | model:
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt14.en-de.fconv-py.tar.bz2)
newstest2014:
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/wmt14.en-de.newstest2014.tar.bz2)\n`conv.wmt17.en-de` | Convolutional
([Gehring et al., 2017](https://arxiv.org/abs/1705.03122)) | [WMT17 English-German](http://statmt.org/wmt17/translation-task.html#Download) | model:
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt17.v2.en-de.fconv-py.tar.bz2)
newstest2014:
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/wmt17.v2.en-de.newstest2014.tar.bz2)\n`transformer.wmt14.en-fr` | Transformer
([Ott et al., 2018](https://arxiv.org/abs/1806.00187)) | [WMT14 English-French](http://statmt.org/wmt14/translation-task.html#Download) | model:
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt14.en-fr.joined-dict.transformer.tar.bz2)
newstest2014:
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/wmt14.en-fr.joined-dict.newstest2014.tar.bz2)\n`transformer.wmt16.en-de` | Transformer
([Ott et al., 2018](https://arxiv.org/abs/1806.00187)) | [WMT16 English-German](https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B_bZck-ksdkpM25jRUN2X2UxMm8) | model:
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt16.en-de.joined-dict.transformer.tar.bz2)
newstest2014:
[download (.tar.bz2)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/wmt16.en-de.joined-dict.newstest2014.tar.bz2)\n`transformer.wmt18.en-de` | Transformer
([Edunov et al., 2018](https://arxiv.org/abs/1808.09381))
WMT'18 winner | [WMT'18 English-German](http://www.statmt.org/wmt18/translation-task.html) | model:
[download (.tar.gz)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt18.en-de.ensemble.tar.gz)
See NOTE in the archive\n`transformer.wmt19.en-de` | Transformer
([Ng et al., 2019](https://arxiv.org/abs/1907.06616))
WMT'19 winner | [WMT'19 English-German](http://www.statmt.org/wmt19/translation-task.html) | model:
[download (.tar.gz)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt19.en-de.joined-dict.ensemble.tar.gz)\n`transformer.wmt19.de-en` | Transformer
([Ng et al., 2019](https://arxiv.org/abs/1907.06616))
WMT'19 winner | [WMT'19 German-English](http://www.statmt.org/wmt19/translation-task.html) | model:
[download (.tar.gz)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt19.de-en.joined-dict.ensemble.tar.gz)\n`transformer.wmt19.en-ru` | Transformer
([Ng et al., 2019](https://arxiv.org/abs/1907.06616))
WMT'19 winner | [WMT'19 English-Russian](http://www.statmt.org/wmt19/translation-task.html) | model:
[download (.tar.gz)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt19.en-ru.ensemble.tar.gz)\n`transformer.wmt19.ru-en` | Transformer
([Ng et al., 2019](https://arxiv.org/abs/1907.06616))
WMT'19 winner | [WMT'19 Russian-English](http://www.statmt.org/wmt19/translation-task.html) | model:
[download (.tar.gz)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt19.ru-en.ensemble.tar.gz)\n\n## Example usage (torch.hub)\n\nWe require a few additional Python dependencies for preprocessing:\n```bash\npip install sacremoses subword_nmt\n```\n\nInteractive translation via PyTorch Hub:\n```python\nimport torch\n\n# List available models\ntorch.hub.list('pytorch/fairseq') # [..., 'transformer.wmt16.en-de', ... ]\n\n# Load a transformer trained on WMT'16 En-De\nen2de = torch.hub.load('pytorch/fairseq', 'transformer.wmt16.en-de', tokenizer='moses', bpe='subword_nmt')\n\n# The underlying model is available under the *models* attribute\nassert isinstance(en2de.models[0], fairseq.models.transformer.TransformerModel)\n\n# Translate a sentence\nen2de.translate('Hello world!')\n# 'Hallo Welt!'\n```\n\n## Example usage (CLI tools)\n\nGeneration with the binarized test sets can be run in batch mode as follows, e.g. for WMT 2014 English-French on a GTX-1080ti:\n```bash\nmkdir -p data-bin\ncurl https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt14.v2.en-fr.fconv-py.tar.bz2 | tar xvjf - -C data-bin\ncurl https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/wmt14.v2.en-fr.newstest2014.tar.bz2 | tar xvjf - -C data-bin\nfairseq-generate data-bin/wmt14.en-fr.newstest2014 \\\n --path data-bin/wmt14.en-fr.fconv-py/model.pt \\\n --beam 5 --batch-size 128 --remove-bpe | tee /tmp/gen.out\n# ...\n# | Translated 3003 sentences (96311 tokens) in 166.0s (580.04 tokens/s)\n# | Generate test with beam=5: BLEU4 = 40.83, 67.5/46.9/34.4/25.5 (BP=1.000, ratio=1.006, syslen=83262, reflen=82787)\n\n# Compute BLEU score\ngrep ^H /tmp/gen.out | cut -f3- > /tmp/gen.out.sys\ngrep ^T /tmp/gen.out | cut -f2- > /tmp/gen.out.ref\nfairseq-score --sys /tmp/gen.out.sys --ref /tmp/gen.out.ref\n# BLEU4 = 40.83, 67.5/46.9/34.4/25.5 (BP=1.000, ratio=1.006, syslen=83262, reflen=82787)\n```\n\n## Training a new model\n\n### IWSLT'14 German to English (Transformer)\n\nThe following instructions can be used to train a Transformer model on the [IWSLT'14 German to English dataset](http://workshop2014.iwslt.org/downloads/proceeding.pdf).\n\nFirst download and preprocess the data:\n```bash\n# Download and prepare the data\ncd examples/translation/\nbash prepare-iwslt14.sh\ncd ../..\n\n# Preprocess/binarize the data\nTEXT=examples/translation/iwslt14.tokenized.de-en\nfairseq-preprocess --source-lang de --target-lang en \\\n --trainpref $TEXT/train --validpref $TEXT/valid --testpref $TEXT/test \\\n --destdir data-bin/iwslt14.tokenized.de-en \\\n --workers 20\n```\n\nNext we'll train a Transformer translation model over this data:\n```bash\nCUDA_VISIBLE_DEVICES=0 fairseq-train \\\n data-bin/iwslt14.tokenized.de-en \\\n --arch transformer_iwslt_de_en --share-decoder-input-output-embed \\\n --optimizer adam --adam-betas '(0.9, 0.98)' --clip-norm 0.0 \\\n --lr 5e-4 --lr-scheduler inverse_sqrt --warmup-updates 4000 \\\n --dropout 0.3 --weight-decay 0.0001 \\\n --criterion label_smoothed_cross_entropy --label-smoothing 0.1 \\\n --max-tokens 4096\n```\n\nFinally we can evaluate our trained model:\n```bash\nfairseq-generate data-bin/iwslt14.tokenized.de-en \\\n --path checkpoints/checkpoint_best.pt \\\n --batch-size 128 --beam 5 --remove-bpe\n```\n\n### WMT'14 English to German (Convolutional)\n\nThe following instructions can be used to train a Convolutional translation model on the WMT English to German dataset.\nSee the [Scaling NMT README](../scaling_nmt/README.md) for instructions to train a Transformer translation model on this data.\n\nThe WMT English to German dataset can be preprocessed using the `prepare-wmt14en2de.sh` script.\nBy default it will produce a dataset that was modeled after [Attention Is All You Need (Vaswani et al., 2017)](https://arxiv.org/abs/1706.03762), but with additional news-commentary-v12 data from WMT'17.\n\nTo use only data available in WMT'14 or to replicate results obtained in the original [Convolutional Sequence to Sequence Learning (Gehring et al., 2017)](https://arxiv.org/abs/1705.03122) paper, please use the `--icml17` option.\n\n```bash\n# Download and prepare the data\ncd examples/translation/\n# WMT'17 data:\nbash prepare-wmt14en2de.sh\n# or to use WMT'14 data:\n# bash prepare-wmt14en2de.sh --icml17\ncd ../..\n\n# Binarize the dataset\nTEXT=examples/translation/wmt17_en_de\nfairseq-preprocess \\\n --source-lang en --target-lang de \\\n --trainpref $TEXT/train --validpref $TEXT/valid --testpref $TEXT/test \\\n --destdir data-bin/wmt17_en_de --thresholdtgt 0 --thresholdsrc 0 \\\n --workers 20\n\n# Train the model\nmkdir -p checkpoints/fconv_wmt_en_de\nfairseq-train \\\n data-bin/wmt17_en_de \\\n --arch fconv_wmt_en_de \\\n --lr 0.5 --clip-norm 0.1 --dropout 0.2 --max-tokens 4000 \\\n --criterion label_smoothed_cross_entropy --label-smoothing 0.1 \\\n --lr-scheduler fixed --force-anneal 50 \\\n --save-dir checkpoints/fconv_wmt_en_de\n\n# Evaluate\nfairseq-generate data-bin/wmt17_en_de \\\n --path checkpoints/fconv_wmt_en_de/checkpoint_best.pt \\\n --beam 5 --remove-bpe\n```\n\n### WMT'14 English to French\n```bash\n# Download and prepare the data\ncd examples/translation/\nbash prepare-wmt14en2fr.sh\ncd ../..\n\n# Binarize the dataset\nTEXT=examples/translation/wmt14_en_fr\nfairseq-preprocess \\\n --source-lang en --target-lang fr \\\n --trainpref $TEXT/train --validpref $TEXT/valid --testpref $TEXT/test \\\n --destdir data-bin/wmt14_en_fr --thresholdtgt 0 --thresholdsrc 0 \\\n --workers 60\n\n# Train the model\nmkdir -p checkpoints/fconv_wmt_en_fr\nfairseq-train \\\n data-bin/wmt14_en_fr \\\n --lr 0.5 --clip-norm 0.1 --dropout 0.1 --max-tokens 3000 \\\n --criterion label_smoothed_cross_entropy --label-smoothing 0.1 \\\n --lr-scheduler fixed --force-anneal 50 \\\n --arch fconv_wmt_en_fr \\\n --save-dir checkpoints/fconv_wmt_en_fr\n\n# Evaluate\nfairseq-generate \\\n data-bin/fconv_wmt_en_fr \\\n --path checkpoints/fconv_wmt_en_fr/checkpoint_best.pt \\\n --beam 5 --remove-bpe\n```\n\n## Multilingual Translation\n\nWe also support training multilingual translation models. In this example we'll\ntrain a multilingual `{de,fr}-en` translation model using the IWSLT'17 datasets.\n\nNote that we use slightly different preprocessing here than for the IWSLT'14\nEn-De data above. In particular we learn a joint BPE code for all three\nlanguages and use interactive.py and sacrebleu for scoring the test set.\n\n```bash\n# First install sacrebleu and sentencepiece\npip install sacrebleu sentencepiece\n\n# Then download and preprocess the data\ncd examples/translation/\nbash prepare-iwslt17-multilingual.sh\ncd ../..\n\n# Binarize the de-en dataset\nTEXT=examples/translation/iwslt17.de_fr.en.bpe16k\nfairseq-preprocess --source-lang de --target-lang en \\\n --trainpref $TEXT/train.bpe.de-en --validpref $TEXT/valid.bpe.de-en \\\n --joined-dictionary \\\n --destdir data-bin/iwslt17.de_fr.en.bpe16k \\\n --workers 10\n\n# Binarize the fr-en dataset\n# NOTE: it's important to reuse the en dictionary from the previous step\nfairseq-preprocess --source-lang fr --target-lang en \\\n --trainpref $TEXT/train.bpe.fr-en --validpref $TEXT/valid.bpe.fr-en \\\n --joined-dictionary --tgtdict data-bin/iwslt17.de_fr.en.bpe16k/dict.en.txt \\\n --destdir data-bin/iwslt17.de_fr.en.bpe16k \\\n --workers 10\n\n# Train a multilingual transformer model\n# NOTE: the command below assumes 1 GPU, but accumulates gradients from\n# 8 fwd/bwd passes to simulate training on 8 GPUs\nmkdir -p checkpoints/multilingual_transformer\nCUDA_VISIBLE_DEVICES=0 fairseq-train data-bin/iwslt17.de_fr.en.bpe16k/ \\\n --max-epoch 50 \\\n --ddp-backend=no_c10d \\\n --task multilingual_translation --lang-pairs de-en,fr-en \\\n --arch multilingual_transformer_iwslt_de_en \\\n --share-decoders --share-decoder-input-output-embed \\\n --optimizer adam --adam-betas '(0.9, 0.98)' \\\n --lr 0.0005 --lr-scheduler inverse_sqrt --min-lr '1e-09' \\\n --warmup-updates 4000 --warmup-init-lr '1e-07' \\\n --label-smoothing 0.1 --criterion label_smoothed_cross_entropy \\\n --dropout 0.3 --weight-decay 0.0001 \\\n --save-dir checkpoints/multilingual_transformer \\\n --max-tokens 4000 \\\n --update-freq 8\n\n# Generate and score the test set with sacrebleu\nSRC=de\nsacrebleu --test-set iwslt17 --language-pair ${SRC}-en --echo src \\\n | python scripts/spm_encode.py --model examples/translation/iwslt17.de_fr.en.bpe16k/sentencepiece.bpe.model \\\n > iwslt17.test.${SRC}-en.${SRC}.bpe\ncat iwslt17.test.${SRC}-en.${SRC}.bpe \\\n | fairseq-interactive data-bin/iwslt17.de_fr.en.bpe16k/ \\\n --task multilingual_translation --source-lang ${SRC} --target-lang en \\\n --path checkpoints/multilingual_transformer/checkpoint_best.pt \\\n --buffer-size 2000 --batch-size 128 \\\n --beam 5 --remove-bpe=sentencepiece \\\n > iwslt17.test.${SRC}-en.en.sys\ngrep ^H iwslt17.test.${SRC}-en.en.sys | cut -f3 \\\n | sacrebleu --test-set iwslt17 --language-pair ${SRC}-en\n```\n\n##### Argument format during inference\n\nDuring inference it is required to specify a single `--source-lang` and\n`--target-lang`, which indicates the inference langauge direction.\n`--lang-pairs`, `--encoder-langtok`, `--decoder-langtok` have to be set to\nthe same value as training.\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/translation/prepare-iwslt14.sh", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env bash\n#\n# Adapted from https://github.com/facebookresearch/MIXER/blob/master/prepareData.sh\n\necho 'Cloning Moses github repository (for tokenization scripts)...'\ngit clone https://github.com/moses-smt/mosesdecoder.git\n\necho 'Cloning Subword NMT repository (for BPE pre-processing)...'\ngit clone https://github.com/rsennrich/subword-nmt.git\n\nSCRIPTS=mosesdecoder/scripts\nTOKENIZER=$SCRIPTS/tokenizer/tokenizer.perl\nLC=$SCRIPTS/tokenizer/lowercase.perl\nCLEAN=$SCRIPTS/training/clean-corpus-n.perl\nBPEROOT=subword-nmt/subword_nmt\nBPE_TOKENS=10000\n\nURL=\"https://wit3.fbk.eu/archive/2014-01/texts/de/en/de-en.tgz\"\nGZ=de-en.tgz\n\nif [ ! -d \"$SCRIPTS\" ]; then\n echo \"Please set SCRIPTS variable correctly to point to Moses scripts.\"\n exit\nfi\n\nsrc=de\ntgt=en\nlang=de-en\nprep=iwslt14.tokenized.de-en\ntmp=$prep/tmp\norig=orig\n\nmkdir -p $orig $tmp $prep\n\necho \"Downloading data from ${URL}...\"\ncd $orig\nwget \"$URL\"\n\nif [ -f $GZ ]; then\n echo \"Data successfully downloaded.\"\nelse\n echo \"Data not successfully downloaded.\"\n exit\nfi\n\ntar zxvf $GZ\ncd ..\n\necho \"pre-processing train data...\"\nfor l in $src $tgt; do\n f=train.tags.$lang.$l\n tok=train.tags.$lang.tok.$l\n\n cat $orig/$lang/$f | \\\n grep -v '' | \\\n grep -v '' | \\\n grep -v '' | \\\n sed -e 's///g' | \\\n sed -e 's/<\\/title>//g' | \\\n sed -e 's/<description>//g' | \\\n sed -e 's/<\\/description>//g' | \\\n perl $TOKENIZER -threads 8 -l $l > $tmp/$tok\n echo \"\"\ndone\nperl $CLEAN -ratio 1.5 $tmp/train.tags.$lang.tok $src $tgt $tmp/train.tags.$lang.clean 1 175\nfor l in $src $tgt; do\n perl $LC < $tmp/train.tags.$lang.clean.$l > $tmp/train.tags.$lang.$l\ndone\n\necho \"pre-processing valid/test data...\"\nfor l in $src $tgt; do\n for o in `ls $orig/$lang/IWSLT14.TED*.$l.xml`; do\n fname=${o##*/}\n f=$tmp/${fname%.*}\n echo $o $f\n grep '<seg id' $o | \\\n sed -e 's/<seg id=\"[0-9]*\">\\s*//g' | \\\n sed -e 's/\\s*<\\/seg>\\s*//g' | \\\n sed -e \"s/\\’/\\'/g\" | \\\n perl $TOKENIZER -threads 8 -l $l | \\\n perl $LC > $f\n echo \"\"\n done\ndone\n\n\necho \"creating train, valid, test...\"\nfor l in $src $tgt; do\n awk '{if (NR%23 == 0) print $0; }' $tmp/train.tags.de-en.$l > $tmp/valid.$l\n awk '{if (NR%23 != 0) print $0; }' $tmp/train.tags.de-en.$l > $tmp/train.$l\n\n cat $tmp/IWSLT14.TED.dev2010.de-en.$l \\\n $tmp/IWSLT14.TEDX.dev2012.de-en.$l \\\n $tmp/IWSLT14.TED.tst2010.de-en.$l \\\n $tmp/IWSLT14.TED.tst2011.de-en.$l \\\n $tmp/IWSLT14.TED.tst2012.de-en.$l \\\n > $tmp/test.$l\ndone\n\nTRAIN=$tmp/train.en-de\nBPE_CODE=$prep/code\nrm -f $TRAIN\nfor l in $src $tgt; do\n cat $tmp/train.$l >> $TRAIN\ndone\n\necho \"learn_bpe.py on ${TRAIN}...\"\npython $BPEROOT/learn_bpe.py -s $BPE_TOKENS < $TRAIN > $BPE_CODE\n\nfor L in $src $tgt; do\n for f in train.$L valid.$L test.$L; do\n echo \"apply_bpe.py to ${f}...\"\n python $BPEROOT/apply_bpe.py -c $BPE_CODE < $tmp/$f > $prep/$f\n done\ndone\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/translation/prepare-iwslt17-multilingual.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n# All rights reserved.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nSRCS=(\n \"de\"\n \"fr\"\n)\nTGT=en\n\nROOT=$(dirname \"$0\")\nSCRIPTS=$ROOT/../../scripts\nSPM_TRAIN=$SCRIPTS/spm_train.py\nSPM_ENCODE=$SCRIPTS/spm_encode.py\n\nBPESIZE=16384\nORIG=$ROOT/iwslt17_orig\nDATA=$ROOT/iwslt17.de_fr.en.bpe16k\nmkdir -p \"$ORIG\" \"$DATA\"\n\nTRAIN_MINLEN=1 # remove sentences with <1 BPE token\nTRAIN_MAXLEN=250 # remove sentences with >250 BPE tokens\n\nURLS=(\n \"https://wit3.fbk.eu/archive/2017-01-trnted/texts/de/en/de-en.tgz\"\n \"https://wit3.fbk.eu/archive/2017-01-trnted/texts/fr/en/fr-en.tgz\"\n)\nARCHIVES=(\n \"de-en.tgz\"\n \"fr-en.tgz\"\n)\nVALID_SETS=(\n \"IWSLT17.TED.dev2010.de-en IWSLT17.TED.tst2010.de-en IWSLT17.TED.tst2011.de-en IWSLT17.TED.tst2012.de-en IWSLT17.TED.tst2013.de-en IWSLT17.TED.tst2014.de-en IWSLT17.TED.tst2015.de-en\"\n \"IWSLT17.TED.dev2010.fr-en IWSLT17.TED.tst2010.fr-en IWSLT17.TED.tst2011.fr-en IWSLT17.TED.tst2012.fr-en IWSLT17.TED.tst2013.fr-en IWSLT17.TED.tst2014.fr-en IWSLT17.TED.tst2015.fr-en\"\n)\n\n# download and extract data\nfor ((i=0;i<${#URLS[@]};++i)); do\n ARCHIVE=$ORIG/${ARCHIVES[i]}\n if [ -f \"$ARCHIVE\" ]; then\n echo \"$ARCHIVE already exists, skipping download\"\n else\n URL=${URLS[i]}\n wget -P \"$ORIG\" \"$URL\"\n if [ -f \"$ARCHIVE\" ]; then\n echo \"$URL successfully downloaded.\"\n else\n echo \"$URL not successfully downloaded.\"\n exit 1\n fi\n fi\n FILE=${ARCHIVE: -4}\n if [ -e \"$FILE\" ]; then\n echo \"$FILE already exists, skipping extraction\"\n else\n tar -C \"$ORIG\" -xzvf \"$ARCHIVE\"\n fi\ndone\n\necho \"pre-processing train data...\"\nfor SRC in \"${SRCS[@]}\"; do\n for LANG in \"${SRC}\" \"${TGT}\"; do\n cat \"$ORIG/${SRC}-${TGT}/train.tags.${SRC}-${TGT}.${LANG}\" \\\n | grep -v '<url>' \\\n | grep -v '<talkid>' \\\n | grep -v '<keywords>' \\\n | grep -v '<speaker>' \\\n | grep -v '<reviewer' \\\n | grep -v '<translator' \\\n | grep -v '<doc' \\\n | grep -v '</doc>' \\\n | sed -e 's/<title>//g' \\\n | sed -e 's/<\\/title>//g' \\\n | sed -e 's/<description>//g' \\\n | sed -e 's/<\\/description>//g' \\\n | sed 's/^\\s*//g' \\\n | sed 's/\\s*$//g' \\\n > \"$DATA/train.${SRC}-${TGT}.${LANG}\"\n done\ndone\n\necho \"pre-processing valid data...\"\nfor ((i=0;i<${#SRCS[@]};++i)); do\n SRC=${SRCS[i]}\n VALID_SET=${VALID_SETS[i]}\n for FILE in ${VALID_SET[@]}; do\n for LANG in \"$SRC\" \"$TGT\"; do\n grep '<seg id' \"$ORIG/${SRC}-${TGT}/${FILE}.${LANG}.xml\" \\\n | sed -e 's/<seg id=\"[0-9]*\">\\s*//g' \\\n | sed -e 's/\\s*<\\/seg>\\s*//g' \\\n | sed -e \"s/\\’/\\'/g\" \\\n > \"$DATA/valid.${SRC}-${TGT}.${LANG}\"\n done\n done\ndone\n\n# learn BPE with sentencepiece\nTRAIN_FILES=$(for SRC in \"${SRCS[@]}\"; do echo $DATA/train.${SRC}-${TGT}.${SRC}; echo $DATA/train.${SRC}-${TGT}.${TGT}; done | tr \"\\n\" \",\")\necho \"learning joint BPE over ${TRAIN_FILES}...\"\npython \"$SPM_TRAIN\" \\\n --input=$TRAIN_FILES \\\n --model_prefix=$DATA/sentencepiece.bpe \\\n --vocab_size=$BPESIZE \\\n --character_coverage=1.0 \\\n --model_type=bpe\n\n# encode train/valid/test\necho \"encoding train/valid with learned BPE...\"\nfor SRC in \"${SRCS[@]}\"; do\n for LANG in \"$SRC\" \"$TGT\"; do\n python \"$SPM_ENCODE\" \\\n --model \"$DATA/sentencepiece.bpe.model\" \\\n --output_format=piece \\\n --inputs $DATA/train.${SRC}-${TGT}.${SRC} $DATA/train.${SRC}-${TGT}.${TGT} \\\n --outputs $DATA/train.bpe.${SRC}-${TGT}.${SRC} $DATA/train.bpe.${SRC}-${TGT}.${TGT} \\\n --min-len $TRAIN_MINLEN --max-len $TRAIN_MAXLEN\n python \"$SPM_ENCODE\" \\\n --model \"$DATA/sentencepiece.bpe.model\" \\\n --output_format=piece \\\n --inputs $DATA/valid.${SRC}-${TGT}.${SRC} $DATA/valid.${SRC}-${TGT}.${TGT} \\\n --outputs $DATA/valid.bpe.${SRC}-${TGT}.${SRC} $DATA/valid.bpe.${SRC}-${TGT}.${TGT}\n done\ndone\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/translation/prepare-wmt14en2de.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n# Adapted from https://github.com/facebookresearch/MIXER/blob/master/prepareData.sh\n\necho 'Cloning Moses github repository (for tokenization scripts)...'\ngit clone https://github.com/moses-smt/mosesdecoder.git\n\necho 'Cloning Subword NMT repository (for BPE pre-processing)...'\ngit clone https://github.com/rsennrich/subword-nmt.git\n\nSCRIPTS=mosesdecoder/scripts\nTOKENIZER=$SCRIPTS/tokenizer/tokenizer.perl\nCLEAN=$SCRIPTS/training/clean-corpus-n.perl\nNORM_PUNC=$SCRIPTS/tokenizer/normalize-punctuation.perl\nREM_NON_PRINT_CHAR=$SCRIPTS/tokenizer/remove-non-printing-char.perl\nBPEROOT=subword-nmt/subword_nmt\nBPE_TOKENS=40000\n\nURLS=(\n \"http://statmt.org/wmt13/training-parallel-europarl-v7.tgz\"\n \"http://statmt.org/wmt13/training-parallel-commoncrawl.tgz\"\n \"http://data.statmt.org/wmt17/translation-task/training-parallel-nc-v12.tgz\"\n \"http://data.statmt.org/wmt17/translation-task/dev.tgz\"\n \"http://statmt.org/wmt14/test-full.tgz\"\n)\nFILES=(\n \"training-parallel-europarl-v7.tgz\"\n \"training-parallel-commoncrawl.tgz\"\n \"training-parallel-nc-v12.tgz\"\n \"dev.tgz\"\n \"test-full.tgz\"\n)\nCORPORA=(\n \"training/europarl-v7.de-en\"\n \"commoncrawl.de-en\"\n \"training/news-commentary-v12.de-en\"\n)\n\n# This will make the dataset compatible to the one used in \"Convolutional Sequence to Sequence Learning\"\n# https://arxiv.org/abs/1705.03122\nif [ \"$1\" == \"--icml17\" ]; then\n URLS[2]=\"http://statmt.org/wmt14/training-parallel-nc-v9.tgz\"\n FILES[2]=\"training-parallel-nc-v9.tgz\"\n CORPORA[2]=\"training/news-commentary-v9.de-en\"\n OUTDIR=wmt14_en_de\nelse\n OUTDIR=wmt17_en_de\nfi\n\nif [ ! -d \"$SCRIPTS\" ]; then\n echo \"Please set SCRIPTS variable correctly to point to Moses scripts.\"\n exit\nfi\n\nsrc=en\ntgt=de\nlang=en-de\nprep=$OUTDIR\ntmp=$prep/tmp\norig=orig\ndev=dev/newstest2013\n\nmkdir -p $orig $tmp $prep\n\ncd $orig\n\nfor ((i=0;i<${#URLS[@]};++i)); do\n file=${FILES[i]}\n if [ -f $file ]; then\n echo \"$file already exists, skipping download\"\n else\n url=${URLS[i]}\n wget \"$url\"\n if [ -f $file ]; then\n echo \"$url successfully downloaded.\"\n else\n echo \"$url not successfully downloaded.\"\n exit -1\n fi\n if [ ${file: -4} == \".tgz\" ]; then\n tar zxvf $file\n elif [ ${file: -4} == \".tar\" ]; then\n tar xvf $file\n fi\n fi\ndone\ncd ..\n\necho \"pre-processing train data...\"\nfor l in $src $tgt; do\n rm $tmp/train.tags.$lang.tok.$l\n for f in \"${CORPORA[@]}\"; do\n cat $orig/$f.$l | \\\n perl $NORM_PUNC $l | \\\n perl $REM_NON_PRINT_CHAR | \\\n perl $TOKENIZER -threads 8 -a -l $l >> $tmp/train.tags.$lang.tok.$l\n done\ndone\n\necho \"pre-processing test data...\"\nfor l in $src $tgt; do\n if [ \"$l\" == \"$src\" ]; then\n t=\"src\"\n else\n t=\"ref\"\n fi\n grep '<seg id' $orig/test-full/newstest2014-deen-$t.$l.sgm | \\\n sed -e 's/<seg id=\"[0-9]*\">\\s*//g' | \\\n sed -e 's/\\s*<\\/seg>\\s*//g' | \\\n sed -e \"s/\\’/\\'/g\" | \\\n perl $TOKENIZER -threads 8 -a -l $l > $tmp/test.$l\n echo \"\"\ndone\n\necho \"splitting train and valid...\"\nfor l in $src $tgt; do\n awk '{if (NR%100 == 0) print $0; }' $tmp/train.tags.$lang.tok.$l > $tmp/valid.$l\n awk '{if (NR%100 != 0) print $0; }' $tmp/train.tags.$lang.tok.$l > $tmp/train.$l\ndone\n\nTRAIN=$tmp/train.de-en\nBPE_CODE=$prep/code\nrm -f $TRAIN\nfor l in $src $tgt; do\n cat $tmp/train.$l >> $TRAIN\ndone\n\necho \"learn_bpe.py on ${TRAIN}...\"\npython $BPEROOT/learn_bpe.py -s $BPE_TOKENS < $TRAIN > $BPE_CODE\n\nfor L in $src $tgt; do\n for f in train.$L valid.$L test.$L; do\n echo \"apply_bpe.py to ${f}...\"\n python $BPEROOT/apply_bpe.py -c $BPE_CODE < $tmp/$f > $tmp/bpe.$f\n done\ndone\n\nperl $CLEAN -ratio 1.5 $tmp/bpe.train $src $tgt $prep/train 1 250\nperl $CLEAN -ratio 1.5 $tmp/bpe.valid $src $tgt $prep/valid 1 250\n\nfor L in $src $tgt; do\n cp $tmp/bpe.test.$L $prep/test.$L\ndone\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/translation/prepare-wmt14en2fr.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n# Adapted from https://github.com/facebookresearch/MIXER/blob/master/prepareData.sh\n\necho 'Cloning Moses github repository (for tokenization scripts)...'\ngit clone https://github.com/moses-smt/mosesdecoder.git\n\necho 'Cloning Subword NMT repository (for BPE pre-processing)...'\ngit clone https://github.com/rsennrich/subword-nmt.git\n\nSCRIPTS=mosesdecoder/scripts\nTOKENIZER=$SCRIPTS/tokenizer/tokenizer.perl\nCLEAN=$SCRIPTS/training/clean-corpus-n.perl\nNORM_PUNC=$SCRIPTS/tokenizer/normalize-punctuation.perl\nREM_NON_PRINT_CHAR=$SCRIPTS/tokenizer/remove-non-printing-char.perl\nBPEROOT=subword-nmt/subword_nmt\nBPE_TOKENS=40000\n\nURLS=(\n \"http://statmt.org/wmt13/training-parallel-europarl-v7.tgz\"\n \"http://statmt.org/wmt13/training-parallel-commoncrawl.tgz\"\n \"http://statmt.org/wmt13/training-parallel-un.tgz\"\n \"http://statmt.org/wmt14/training-parallel-nc-v9.tgz\"\n \"http://statmt.org/wmt10/training-giga-fren.tar\"\n \"http://statmt.org/wmt14/test-full.tgz\"\n)\nFILES=(\n \"training-parallel-europarl-v7.tgz\"\n \"training-parallel-commoncrawl.tgz\"\n \"training-parallel-un.tgz\"\n \"training-parallel-nc-v9.tgz\"\n \"training-giga-fren.tar\"\n \"test-full.tgz\"\n)\nCORPORA=(\n \"training/europarl-v7.fr-en\"\n \"commoncrawl.fr-en\"\n \"un/undoc.2000.fr-en\"\n \"training/news-commentary-v9.fr-en\"\n \"giga-fren.release2.fixed\"\n)\n\nif [ ! -d \"$SCRIPTS\" ]; then\n echo \"Please set SCRIPTS variable correctly to point to Moses scripts.\"\n exit\nfi\n\nsrc=en\ntgt=fr\nlang=en-fr\nprep=wmt14_en_fr\ntmp=$prep/tmp\norig=orig\n\nmkdir -p $orig $tmp $prep\n\ncd $orig\n\nfor ((i=0;i<${#URLS[@]};++i)); do\n file=${FILES[i]}\n if [ -f $file ]; then\n echo \"$file already exists, skipping download\"\n else\n url=${URLS[i]}\n wget \"$url\"\n if [ -f $file ]; then\n echo \"$url successfully downloaded.\"\n else\n echo \"$url not successfully downloaded.\"\n exit -1\n fi\n if [ ${file: -4} == \".tgz\" ]; then\n tar zxvf $file\n elif [ ${file: -4} == \".tar\" ]; then\n tar xvf $file\n fi\n fi\ndone\n\ngunzip giga-fren.release2.fixed.*.gz\ncd ..\n\necho \"pre-processing train data...\"\nfor l in $src $tgt; do\n rm $tmp/train.tags.$lang.tok.$l\n for f in \"${CORPORA[@]}\"; do\n cat $orig/$f.$l | \\\n perl $NORM_PUNC $l | \\\n perl $REM_NON_PRINT_CHAR | \\\n perl $TOKENIZER -threads 8 -a -l $l >> $tmp/train.tags.$lang.tok.$l\n done\ndone\n\necho \"pre-processing test data...\"\nfor l in $src $tgt; do\n if [ \"$l\" == \"$src\" ]; then\n t=\"src\"\n else\n t=\"ref\"\n fi\n grep '<seg id' $orig/test-full/newstest2014-fren-$t.$l.sgm | \\\n sed -e 's/<seg id=\"[0-9]*\">\\s*//g' | \\\n sed -e 's/\\s*<\\/seg>\\s*//g' | \\\n sed -e \"s/\\’/\\'/g\" | \\\n perl $TOKENIZER -threads 8 -a -l $l > $tmp/test.$l\n echo \"\"\ndone\n\necho \"splitting train and valid...\"\nfor l in $src $tgt; do\n awk '{if (NR%1333 == 0) print $0; }' $tmp/train.tags.$lang.tok.$l > $tmp/valid.$l\n awk '{if (NR%1333 != 0) print $0; }' $tmp/train.tags.$lang.tok.$l > $tmp/train.$l\ndone\n\nTRAIN=$tmp/train.fr-en\nBPE_CODE=$prep/code\nrm -f $TRAIN\nfor l in $src $tgt; do\n cat $tmp/train.$l >> $TRAIN\ndone\n\necho \"learn_bpe.py on ${TRAIN}...\"\npython $BPEROOT/learn_bpe.py -s $BPE_TOKENS < $TRAIN > $BPE_CODE\n\nfor L in $src $tgt; do\n for f in train.$L valid.$L test.$L; do\n echo \"apply_bpe.py to ${f}...\"\n python $BPEROOT/apply_bpe.py -c $BPE_CODE < $tmp/$f > $tmp/bpe.$f\n done\ndone\n\nperl $CLEAN -ratio 1.5 $tmp/bpe.train $src $tgt $prep/train 1 250\nperl $CLEAN -ratio 1.5 $tmp/bpe.valid $src $tgt $prep/valid 1 250\n\nfor L in $src $tgt; do\n cp $tmp/bpe.test.$L $prep/test.$L\ndone\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/translation_moe/README.md", "content": "# Mixture Models for Diverse Machine Translation: Tricks of the Trade (Shen et al., 2019)\n\nThis page includes instructions for reproducing results from the paper [Mixture Models for Diverse Machine Translation: Tricks of the Trade (Shen et al., 2019)](https://arxiv.org/abs/1902.07816).\n\n## Download data\n\nFirst, follow the [instructions to download and preprocess the WMT'17 En-De dataset](../translation#prepare-wmt14en2desh).\nMake sure to learn a joint vocabulary by passing the `--joined-dictionary` option to `fairseq-preprocess`.\n\n## Train a model\n\nThen we can train a mixture of experts model using the `translation_moe` task.\nUse the `--method` flag to choose the MoE variant; we support hard mixtures with a learned or uniform prior (`--method hMoElp` and `hMoEup`, respectively) and soft mixures (`--method sMoElp` and `sMoEup`).\nThe model is trained with online responsibility assignment and shared parameterization.\n\nThe following command will train a `hMoElp` model with `3` experts:\n```bash\nfairseq-train --ddp-backend='no_c10d' \\\n data-bin/wmt17_en_de \\\n --max-update 100000 \\\n --task translation_moe \\\n --method hMoElp --mean-pool-gating-network \\\n --num-experts 3 \\\n --arch transformer_wmt_en_de --share-all-embeddings \\\n --optimizer adam --adam-betas '(0.9, 0.98)' --clip-norm 0.0 \\\n --lr-scheduler inverse_sqrt --warmup-init-lr 1e-07 --warmup-updates 4000 \\\n --lr 0.0007 --min-lr 1e-09 \\\n --dropout 0.1 --weight-decay 0.0 --criterion cross_entropy \\\n --max-tokens 3584\n```\n\n## Translate\n\nOnce a model is trained, we can generate translations from different experts using the `--gen-expert` option.\nFor example, to generate from expert 0:\n```bash\nfairseq-generate data-bin/wmt17_en_de \\\n --path checkpoints/checkpoint_best.pt \\\n --beam 1 --remove-bpe \\\n --task translation_moe \\\n --method hMoElp --mean-pool-gating-network \\\n --num-experts 3 \\\n --gen-expert 0\n```\n\n## Evaluate\n\nFirst download a tokenized version of the WMT'14 En-De test set with multiple references:\n```bash\nwget dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/wmt14-en-de.extra_refs.tok\n```\n\nNext apply BPE on the fly and run generation for each expert:\n```bash\nBPE_CODE=examples/translation/wmt17_en_de/code\nfor EXPERT in $(seq 0 2); do \\\n cat wmt14-en-de.extra_refs.tok \\\n | grep ^S | cut -f 2 \\\n | fairseq-interactive data-bin/wmt17_en_de \\\n --path checkpoints/checkpoint_best.pt \\\n --beam 1 \\\n --bpe subword_nmt --bpe-codes $BPE_CODE \\\n --buffer-size 500 --max-tokens 6000 \\\n --task translation_moe \\\n --method hMoElp --mean-pool-gating-network \\\n --num-experts 3 \\\n --gen-expert $EXPERT ; \\\ndone > wmt14-en-de.extra_refs.tok.gen.3experts\n```\n\nFinally use `score_moe.py` to compute pairwise BLUE and average oracle BLEU:\n```bash\npython examples/translation_moe/score.py --sys wmt14-en-de.extra_refs.tok.gen.3experts --ref wmt14-en-de.extra_refs.tok\n# pairwise BLEU: 48.26\n# #refs covered: 2.11\n# multi-reference BLEU (leave-one-out): 59.46\n```\nThis matches row 3 from Table 7 in the paper.\n\n## Citation\n\n```bibtex\n@article{shen2019mixture,\n title = {Mixture Models for Diverse Machine Translation: Tricks of the Trade},\n author = {Tianxiao Shen and Myle Ott and Michael Auli and Marc'Aurelio Ranzato},\n journal = {International Conference on Machine Learning},\n year = 2019,\n}\n```\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/translation_moe/score.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\"\"\"\nScoring script for computing pairwise BLEU and multi-ref BLEU over a set of\ncandidate hypotheses.\n\nSee `\"Mixture Models for Diverse Machine Translation: Tricks of the Trade\"\n(Shen et al., 2019) <https://arxiv.org/abs/1902.07816>`_.\n\"\"\"\n\nimport argparse\nfrom itertools import chain\nimport sys\nimport random\n\nimport numpy as np\nfrom sacrebleu import compute_bleu, corpus_bleu as _corpus_bleu\n\n\ndef main():\n parser = argparse.ArgumentParser(sys.argv[0])\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--sys\", nargs=\"*\", default=\"\", metavar=\"FILE\", help=\"path to system output\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\"--ref\", default=\"\", metavar=\"FILE\", help=\"path to references\")\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--output\",\n default=\"\",\n metavar=\"FILE\",\n help=\"print outputs into a pretty format\",\n )\n args = parser.parse_args()\n\n if args.sys:\n src, tgt, hypos, log_probs = load_sys(args.sys)\n print(\"pairwise BLEU: %.2f\" % pairwise(hypos))\n if args.output:\n merge(src, tgt, hypos, log_probs, args.output)\n\n if args.ref:\n _, _, refs = load_ref(args.ref)\n if args.sys:\n multi_ref(refs, hypos)\n else:\n intra_ref(refs)\n\n\ndef dictolist(d):\n a = sorted(d.items(), key=lambda i: i[0])\n return [i[1] for i in a]\n\n\ndef load_sys(paths):\n src, tgt, hypos, log_probs = {}, {}, {}, {}\n for path in paths:\n with open(path) as f:\n for line in f:\n line = line.rstrip()\n if line.startswith((\"S-\", \"T-\", \"H-\")):\n i = int(line[line.find(\"-\") + 1 : line.find(\"\\t\")])\n if line.startswith(\"S-\"):\n src[i] = line.split(\"\\t\")[1]\n if line.startswith(\"T-\"):\n tgt[i] = line.split(\"\\t\")[1]\n if line.startswith(\"H-\"):\n if i not in hypos:\n hypos[i] = []\n log_probs[i] = []\n hypos[i].append(line.split(\"\\t\")[2])\n log_probs[i].append(float(line.split(\"\\t\")[1]))\n return dictolist(src), dictolist(tgt), dictolist(hypos), dictolist(log_probs)\n\n\ndef load_ref(path):\n with open(path) as f:\n lines = f.readlines()\n src, tgt, refs = [], [], []\n i = 0\n while i < len(lines):\n if lines[i].startswith(\"S-\"):\n src.append(lines[i].split(\"\\t\")[1].rstrip())\n i += 1\n elif lines[i].startswith(\"T-\"):\n tgt.append(lines[i].split(\"\\t\")[1].rstrip())\n i += 1\n else:\n a = []\n while i < len(lines) and lines[i].startswith(\"R\"):\n a.append(lines[i].split(\"\\t\")[1].rstrip())\n i += 1\n refs.append(a)\n return src, tgt, refs\n\n\ndef merge(src, tgt, hypos, log_probs, path):\n with open(path, \"w\") as f:\n for s, t, hs, lps in zip(src, tgt, hypos, log_probs):\n f.write(s + \"\\n\")\n f.write(t + \"\\n\")\n f.write(\"\\n\")\n for h, lp in zip(hs, lps):\n f.write(\"\\t%f\\t%s\\n\" % (lp, h.strip()))\n f.write(\"------------------------------------------------------\\n\")\n\n\ndef corpus_bleu(sys_stream, ref_streams):\n bleu = _corpus_bleu(sys_stream, ref_streams, tokenize=\"none\")\n return bleu.score\n\n\ndef sentence_bleu(hypothesis, reference):\n bleu = _corpus_bleu(hypothesis, reference)\n for i in range(1, 4):\n bleu.counts[i] += 1\n bleu.totals[i] += 1\n bleu = compute_bleu(\n bleu.counts,\n bleu.totals,\n bleu.sys_len,\n bleu.ref_len,\n smooth=\"exp\",\n smooth_floor=0.0,\n )\n return bleu.score\n\n\ndef pairwise(sents):\n _ref, _hypo = [], []\n for s in sents:\n for i in range(len(s)):\n for j in range(len(s)):\n if i != j:\n _ref.append(s[i])\n _hypo.append(s[j])\n return corpus_bleu(_hypo, [_ref])\n\n\ndef multi_ref(refs, hypos):\n _ref, _hypo = [], []\n ref_cnt = 0\n assert len(refs) == len(hypos)\n\n # count number of refs covered\n for rs, hs in zip(refs, hypos):\n a = set()\n for h in hs:\n s = [sentence_bleu(h, r) for r in rs]\n j = np.argmax(s)\n _ref.append(rs[j])\n _hypo.append(h)\n best = [k for k in range(len(rs)) if s[k] == s[j]]\n a.add(random.choice(best))\n ref_cnt += len(a)\n print(\"#refs covered: %.2f\" % (ref_cnt / len(refs)))\n\n # transpose refs and hypos\n refs = list(zip(*refs))\n hypos = list(zip(*hypos))\n\n # compute multi-ref corpus BLEU (leave-one-out to be comparable to intra_ref)\n k = len(hypos)\n m = len(refs)\n flat_hypos = [hypos[j][i] for i in range(len(hypos[0])) for j in range(k)]\n duplicated_refs = [[ref for ref in refs_i for _ in range(k)] for refs_i in refs]\n loo_bleus = []\n for held_out_ref in range(m):\n remaining_refs = (\n duplicated_refs[:held_out_ref] + duplicated_refs[held_out_ref + 1 :]\n )\n assert len(remaining_refs) == m - 1\n loo_bleus.append(corpus_bleu(flat_hypos, remaining_refs))\n print(\"average multi-reference BLEU (leave-one-out): %.2f\" % np.mean(loo_bleus))\n\n\ndef intra_ref(refs):\n print(\"ref pairwise BLEU: %.2f\" % pairwise(refs))\n refs = list(zip(*refs))\n m = len(refs)\n concat_h = []\n concat_rest = [[] for j in range(m - 1)]\n for i, h in enumerate(refs):\n rest = refs[:i] + refs[i + 1 :]\n concat_h.append(h)\n for j in range(m - 1):\n concat_rest[j].extend(rest[j])\n concat_h = list(chain.from_iterable(concat_h))\n bleu = corpus_bleu(concat_h, concat_rest)\n print(\"multi-reference BLEU (leave-one-out): %.2f\" % bleu)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/wav2vec/README.md", "content": "# wav2vec\n\nExample to train a wav2vec model as described in [wav2vec: Unsupervised Pre-training for Speech Recognition (Schneider et al., 2019)](https://arxiv.org/abs/1904.05862).\n\n## Pre-trained models\n\nDescription | Parameters | Dataset | Model\n---|---:|---|---\nWav2Vec large <br> ([(Schneider et al., 2019)](https://arxiv.org/abs/1904.05862)) | 32.5M | [Librispeech](http://www.openslr.org/12) | [download](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/wav2vec/wav2vec_large.pt)\n\n#### Example usage:\n```python\nimport torch\nfrom fairseq.models.wav2vec import Wav2VecModel\n\ncp = torch.load('/path/to/wav2vec.pt')\nmodel = Wav2VecModel.build_model(cp['args'], task=None)\nmodel.load_state_dict(cp['model'])\nmodel.eval()\n\nwav_input_16khz = torch.randn(1,10000)\nz = model.feature_extractor(wav_input_16khz)\nc = model.feature_aggregator(z)\n```\n\n## Training a new model with the CLI tools\n\nGiven a directory containing wav files to be used for pretraining (we recommend splitting each file into separate file 10 to 30 seconds in length)\n\n### Prepare training data manifest:\n\n```\n$ python scripts/wav2vec_manifest.py /path/to/waves --dest /manifest/path --ext wav\n```\n\n### Train a wav2vec model:\n\n```\n$ python train.py /manifest/path --save-dir /model/path --num-workers 6 --fp16 --max-update 400000 --save-interval 1 --no-epoch-checkpoints \\\n--arch wav2vec --task audio_pretraining --lr 1e-06 --min-lr 1e-09 --optimizer adam --max-lr 0.005 --lr-scheduler cosine \\\n--conv-feature-layers [(512, 10, 5), (512, 8, 4), (512, 4, 2), (512, 4, 2), (512, 4, 2), (512, 1, 1), (512, 1, 1)] \\\n--conv-aggregator-layers [(512, 2, 1), (512, 3, 1), (512, 4, 1), (512, 5, 1), (512, 6, 1), (512, 7, 1), (512, 8, 1), (512, 9, 1), (512, 10, 1), (512, 11, 1), (512, 12, 1), (512, 13, 1)] \\\n--skip-connections-agg --residual-scale 0.5 --log-compression --warmup-updates 500 --warmup-init-lr 1e-07 --criterion binary_cross_entropy --num-negatives 10 \\\n--max-sample-size 150000 --max-tokens 1500000 ---skip-invalid-size-inputs-valid-test\n```\n\n### Extract embeddings from the downstream task data:\n\n```\n$ PYTHONPATH /path/to/fairseq python scripts/wav2vec_featurize.py --input /path/to/task/waves --output /path/to/output \\\n--model /model/path/checkpoint_best.pt --split train valid test\n```\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/wmt19/README.md", "content": "# WMT 19\n\nThis page provides pointers to the models of Facebook-FAIR's WMT'19 news translation task submission [(Ng et al., 2019)](https://arxiv.org/abs/1907.06616).\n\n## Pre-trained models\n\nModel | Description | Download\n---|---|---\n`transformer.wmt19.en-de` | En->De Ensemble | [download (.tar.gz)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt19.en-de.joined-dict.ensemble.tar.gz)\n`transformer.wmt19.de-en` | De->En Ensemble | [download (.tar.gz)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt19.de-en.joined-dict.ensemble.tar.gz)\n`transformer.wmt19.en-ru` | En->Ru Ensemble | [download (.tar.gz)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt19.en-ru.ensemble.tar.gz)\n`transformer.wmt19.ru-en` | Ru->En Ensemble | [download (.tar.gz)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt19.ru-en.ensemble.tar.gz)\n`transformer_lm.wmt19.en` | En Language Model | [download (.tar.gz)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/lm/wmt19.en.tar.gz)\n`transformer_lm.wmt19.de` | De Language Model | [download (.tar.gz)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/lm/wmt19.de.tar.gz)\n`transformer_lm.wmt19.ru` | Ru Language Model | [download (.tar.gz)](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/lm/wmt19.ru.tar.gz)\n\n## Example usage (torch.hub)\n\n#### Requirements\n\nWe require a few additional Python dependencies for preprocessing:\n```bash\npip install fastBPE sacremoses\n```\n\n#### Translation\n\n```python\nimport torch\n\n# English to German translation\nen2de = torch.hub.load('pytorch/fairseq', 'transformer.wmt19.en-de', checkpoint_file='model1.pt:model2.pt:model3.pt:model4.pt',\n tokenizer='moses', bpe='fastbpe')\nen2de.translate(\"Machine learning is great!\") # 'Maschinelles Lernen ist großartig!'\n\n# German to English translation\nde2en = torch.hub.load('pytorch/fairseq', 'transformer.wmt19.de-en', checkpoint_file='model1.pt:model2.pt:model3.pt:model4.pt',\n tokenizer='moses', bpe='fastbpe')\nde2en.translate(\"Maschinelles Lernen ist großartig!\") # 'Machine learning is great!'\n\n# English to Russian translation\nen2ru = torch.hub.load('pytorch/fairseq', 'transformer.wmt19.en-ru', checkpoint_file='model1.pt:model2.pt:model3.pt:model4.pt',\n tokenizer='moses', bpe='fastbpe')\nen2ru.translate(\"Machine learning is great!\") # 'Машинное обучение - это здорово!'\n\n# Russian to English translation\nru2en = torch.hub.load('pytorch/fairseq', 'transformer.wmt19.ru-en', checkpoint_file='model1.pt:model2.pt:model3.pt:model4.pt',\n tokenizer='moses', bpe='fastbpe')\nru2en.translate(\"Машинное обучение - это здорово!\") # 'Machine learning is great!'\n```\n\n#### Language Modeling\n\n```python\n# Sample from the English LM\nen_lm = torch.hub.load('pytorch/fairseq', 'transformer_lm.wmt19.en', tokenizer='moses', bpe='fastbpe')\nen_lm.sample(\"Machine learning is\") # 'Machine learning is the future of computing, says Microsoft boss Satya Nadella ...'\n\n# Sample from the German LM\nde_lm = torch.hub.load('pytorch/fairseq', 'transformer_lm.wmt19.de', tokenizer='moses', bpe='fastbpe')\nde_lm.sample(\"Maschinelles lernen ist\") # 'Maschinelles lernen ist das A und O (neues-deutschland.de) Die Arbeitsbedingungen für Lehrerinnen und Lehrer sind seit Jahren verbesserungswürdig ...'\n\n# Sample from the Russian LM\nru_lm = torch.hub.load('pytorch/fairseq', 'transformer_lm.wmt19.ru', tokenizer='moses', bpe='fastbpe')\nru_lm.sample(\"машинное обучение это\") # 'машинное обучение это то, что мы называем \"искусственным интеллектом\".'\n```\n\n## Citation\n```bibtex\n@inproceedings{ng2019facebook},\n title = {Facebook FAIR's WMT19 News Translation Task Submission},\n author = {Ng, Nathan and Yee, Kyra and Baevski, Alexei and Ott, Myle and Auli, Michael and Edunov, Sergey},\n booktitle = {Proc. of WMT},\n year = 2019,\n}\n```\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/examples/xlmr/README.md", "content": "# Unsupervised Cross-lingual Representation Learning at Scale (XLM-RoBERTa)\n\n## Introduction\n\nXLM-R (XLM-RoBERTa) is scaled cross lingual sentence encoder. It is trained on `2.5T` of data across `100` languages data filtered from Common Crawl. XLM-R achieves state-of-the-arts results on multiple cross lingual benchmarks.\n\n## Pre-trained models\n\nModel | Description | #params | vocab size | Download\n---|---|---|---|---\n`xlmr.base.v0` | XLM-R using the BERT-base architecture | 250M | 250k | [xlm.base.v0.tar.gz](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/xlmr.base.v0.tar.gz)\n`xlmr.large.v0` | XLM-R using the BERT-large architecture | 560M | 250k | [xlm.large.v0.tar.gz](https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/xlmr.large.v0.tar.gz)\n\n(Note: The above models are still under training, we will update the weights, once fully trained, the results are based on the above checkpoints.)\n\n## Results\n\n**[XNLI (Conneau et al., 2018)](https://arxiv.org/abs/1809.05053)**\n\nModel | average | en | fr | es | de | el | bg | ru | tr | ar | vi | th | zh | hi | sw | ur\n---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---\n`roberta.large.mnli` _(TRANSLATE-TEST)_ | 77.8 | 91.3 | 82.9 | 84.3 | 81.2 | 81.7 | 83.1 | 78.3 | 76.8 | 76.6 | 74.2 | 74.1 | 77.5 | 70.9 | 66.7 | 66.8\n`xlmr.large.v0` _(TRANSLATE-TRAIN-ALL)_ | **82.4** | 88.7 | 85.2 | 85.6 | 84.6 | 83.6 | 85.5 | 82.4 | 81.6 | 80.9 | 83.4 | 80.9 | 83.3 | 79.8 | 75.9 | 74.3\n\n**[MLQA (Lewis et al., 2018)](https://arxiv.org/abs/1910.07475)**\n\nModel | average | en | es | de | ar | hi | vi | zh\n---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---\n`BERT-large` | - | 80.2/67.4 | - | - | - | - | - | -\n`mBERT` | 57.7 / 41.6 | 77.7 / 65.2 | 64.3 / 46.6 | 57.9 / 44.3 | 45.7 / 29.8| 43.8 / 29.7 | 57.1 / 38.6 | 57.5 / 37.3\n`xlmr.large.v0` | **70.0 / 52.2** | 80.1 / 67.7 | 73.2 / 55.1 | 68.3 / 53.7 | 62.8 / 43.7 | 68.3 / 51.0 | 70.5 / 50.1 | 67.1 / 44.4\n\n\n## Example usage\n\n##### Load XLM-R from torch.hub (PyTorch >= 1.1):\n```python\nimport torch\nxlmr = torch.hub.load('pytorch/fairseq', 'xlmr.large.v0')\nxlmr.eval() # disable dropout (or leave in train mode to finetune)\n```\n\n##### Load XLM-R (for PyTorch 1.0 or custom models):\n```python\n# Download xlmr.large model\nwget https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/xlmr.large.v0.tar.gz\ntar -xzvf xlmr.large.v0.tar.gz\n\n# Load the model in fairseq\nfrom fairseq.models.roberta import XLMRModel\nxlmr = XLMRModel.from_pretrained('/path/to/xlmr.large.v0', checkpoint_file='model.pt')\nxlmr.eval() # disable dropout (or leave in train mode to finetune)\n```\n\n##### Apply sentence-piece-model (SPM) encoding to input text:\n```python\nen_tokens = xlmr.encode('Hello world!')\nassert en_tokens.tolist() == [0, 35378, 8999, 38, 2]\nxlmr.decode(en_tokens) # 'Hello world!'\n\nzh_tokens = xlmr.encode('你好，世界')\nassert zh_tokens.tolist() == [0, 6, 124084, 4, 3221, 2]\nxlmr.decode(zh_tokens) # '你好，世界'\n\nhi_tokens = xlmr.encode('नमस्ते दुनिया')\nassert hi_tokens.tolist() == [0, 68700, 97883, 29405, 2]\nxlmr.decode(hi_tokens) # 'नमस्ते दुनिया'\n\nar_tokens = xlmr.encode('مرحبا بالعالم')\nassert ar_tokens.tolist() == [0, 665, 193478, 258, 1705, 77796, 2]\nxlmr.decode(ar_tokens) # 'مرحبا بالعالم'\n\nfr_tokens = xlmr.encode('Bonjour le monde')\nassert fr_tokens.tolist() == [0, 84602, 95, 11146, 2]\nxlmr.decode(fr_tokens) # 'Bonjour le monde'\n```\n\n##### Extract features from XLM-R:\n```python\n# Extract the last layer's features\nlast_layer_features = xlmr.extract_features(zh_tokens)\nassert last_layer_features.size() == torch.Size([1, 6, 1024])\n\n# Extract all layer's features (layer 0 is the embedding layer)\nall_layers = xlmr.extract_features(zh_tokens, return_all_hiddens=True)\nassert len(all_layers) == 25\nassert torch.all(all_layers[-1] == last_layer_features)\n```\n\n## Citation\n\n```bibtex\n@article{,\n title = {Unsupervised Cross-lingual Representation Learning at Scale},\n author = {Alexis Conneau and Kartikay Khandelwal\n and Naman Goyal and Vishrav Chaudhary and Guillaume Wenzek\n and Francisco Guzm\\'an and Edouard Grave and Myle Ott\n and Luke Zettlemoyer and Veselin Stoyanov\n },\n journal={},\n year = {2019},\n}\n```\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/__init__.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\n__all__ = [\"pdb\"]\n__version__ = \"0.9.0\"\n\nimport fairseq.criterions # noqa\nimport fairseq.models # noqa\nimport fairseq.modules # noqa\nimport fairseq.optim # noqa\nimport fairseq.optim.lr_scheduler # noqa\nimport fairseq.pdb # noqa\nimport fairseq.tasks # noqa\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/binarizer.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom collections import Counter\nimport os\n\nfrom fairseq.tokenizer import tokenize_line\n\n\ndef safe_readline(f):\n pos = f.tell()\n while True:\n try:\n return f.readline()\n except UnicodeDecodeError:\n pos -= 1\n f.seek(pos) # search where this character begins\n\n\nclass Binarizer:\n @staticmethod\n def binarize(\n filename,\n dict,\n consumer,\n tokenize=tokenize_line,\n append_eos=True,\n reverse_order=False,\n offset=0,\n end=-1,\n ):\n nseq, ntok = 0, 0\n replaced = Counter()\n\n def replaced_consumer(word, idx):\n if idx == dict.unk_index and word != dict.unk_word:\n replaced.update([word])\n\n with open(filename, \"r\", encoding=\"utf-8\") as f:\n f.seek(offset)\n # next(f) breaks f.tell(), hence readline() must be used\n line = safe_readline(f)\n while line:\n if end > 0 and f.tell() > end:\n break\n ids = dict.encode_line(\n line=line,\n line_tokenizer=tokenize,\n add_if_not_exist=False,\n consumer=replaced_consumer,\n append_eos=append_eos,\n reverse_order=reverse_order,\n )\n nseq += 1\n ntok += len(ids)\n consumer(ids)\n line = f.readline()\n return {\n \"nseq\": nseq,\n \"nunk\": sum(replaced.values()),\n \"ntok\": ntok,\n \"replaced\": replaced,\n }\n\n @staticmethod\n def binarize_alignments(filename, alignment_parser, consumer, offset=0, end=-1):\n nseq = 0\n\n with open(filename, \"r\") as f:\n f.seek(offset)\n line = safe_readline(f)\n while line:\n if end > 0 and f.tell() > end:\n break\n ids = alignment_parser(line)\n nseq += 1\n consumer(ids)\n line = f.readline()\n return {\"nseq\": nseq}\n\n @staticmethod\n def find_offsets(filename, num_chunks):\n with open(filename, \"r\", encoding=\"utf-8\") as f:\n size = os.fstat(f.fileno()).st_size\n chunk_size = size // num_chunks\n offsets = [0 for _ in range(num_chunks + 1)]\n for i in range(1, num_chunks):\n f.seek(chunk_size * i)\n safe_readline(f)\n offsets[i] = f.tell()\n return offsets\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/bleu.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport ctypes\nimport math\nimport torch\n\ntry:\n from fairseq import libbleu\nexcept ImportError as e:\n import sys\n\n sys.stderr.write(\"ERROR: missing libbleu.so. run `pip install --editable .`\\n\")\n raise e\n\n\nC = ctypes.cdll.LoadLibrary(libbleu.__file__)\n\n\nclass BleuStat(ctypes.Structure):\n _fields_ = [\n (\"reflen\", ctypes.c_size_t),\n (\"predlen\", ctypes.c_size_t),\n (\"match1\", ctypes.c_size_t),\n (\"count1\", ctypes.c_size_t),\n (\"match2\", ctypes.c_size_t),\n (\"count2\", ctypes.c_size_t),\n (\"match3\", ctypes.c_size_t),\n (\"count3\", ctypes.c_size_t),\n (\"match4\", ctypes.c_size_t),\n (\"count4\", ctypes.c_size_t),\n ]\n\n\nclass SacrebleuScorer(object):\n def __init__(self):\n import sacrebleu\n\n self.sacrebleu = sacrebleu\n self.reset()\n\n def reset(self, one_init=False):\n if one_init:\n raise NotImplementedError\n self.ref = []\n self.sys = []\n\n def add_string(self, ref, pred):\n self.ref.append(ref)\n self.sys.append(pred)\n\n def score(self, order=4):\n return self.result_string(order).score\n\n def result_string(self, order=4):\n if order != 4:\n raise NotImplementedError\n return self.sacrebleu.corpus_bleu(self.sys, [self.ref])\n\n\nclass Scorer(object):\n def __init__(self, pad, eos, unk):\n self.stat = BleuStat()\n self.pad = pad\n self.eos = eos\n self.unk = unk\n self.reset()\n\n def reset(self, one_init=False):\n if one_init:\n C.bleu_one_init(ctypes.byref(self.stat))\n else:\n C.bleu_zero_init(ctypes.byref(self.stat))\n\n def add(self, ref, pred):\n if not isinstance(ref, torch.IntTensor):\n raise TypeError(\"ref must be a torch.IntTensor (got {})\".format(type(ref)))\n if not isinstance(pred, torch.IntTensor):\n raise TypeError(\"pred must be a torch.IntTensor(got {})\".format(type(pred)))\n\n # don't match unknown words\n rref = ref.clone()\n assert not rref.lt(0).any()\n rref[rref.eq(self.unk)] = -999\n\n rref = rref.contiguous().view(-1)\n pred = pred.contiguous().view(-1)\n\n C.bleu_add(\n ctypes.byref(self.stat),\n ctypes.c_size_t(rref.size(0)),\n ctypes.c_void_p(rref.data_ptr()),\n ctypes.c_size_t(pred.size(0)),\n ctypes.c_void_p(pred.data_ptr()),\n ctypes.c_int(self.pad),\n ctypes.c_int(self.eos),\n )\n\n def score(self, order=4):\n psum = sum(\n math.log(p) if p > 0 else float(\"-Inf\") for p in self.precision()[:order]\n )\n return self.brevity() * math.exp(psum / order) * 100\n\n def precision(self):\n def ratio(a, b):\n return a / b if b > 0 else 0\n\n return [\n ratio(self.stat.match1, self.stat.count1),\n ratio(self.stat.match2, self.stat.count2),\n ratio(self.stat.match3, self.stat.count3),\n ratio(self.stat.match4, self.stat.count4),\n ]\n\n def brevity(self):\n r = self.stat.reflen / self.stat.predlen\n return min(1, math.exp(1 - r))\n\n def result_string(self, order=4):\n assert order <= 4, \"BLEU scores for order > 4 aren't supported\"\n fmt = \"BLEU{} = {:2.2f}, {:2.1f}\"\n for _ in range(1, order):\n fmt += \"/{:2.1f}\"\n fmt += \" (BP={:.3f}, ratio={:.3f}, syslen={}, reflen={})\"\n bleup = [p * 100 for p in self.precision()[:order]]\n return fmt.format(\n order,\n self.score(order=order),\n *bleup,\n self.brevity(),\n self.stat.predlen / self.stat.reflen,\n self.stat.predlen,\n self.stat.reflen\n )\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/checkpoint_utils.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport collections\nimport logging\nimport os\nimport re\nimport shutil\nimport traceback\nfrom collections import OrderedDict\nfrom typing import Union\n\nimport torch\nfrom fairseq.models import FairseqDecoder, FairseqEncoder\nfrom torch.serialization import default_restore_location\n\n\ndef save_checkpoint(args, trainer, epoch_itr, val_loss):\n from fairseq import distributed_utils, meters\n\n prev_best = getattr(save_checkpoint, \"best\", val_loss)\n if val_loss is not None:\n best_function = max if args.maximize_best_checkpoint_metric else min\n save_checkpoint.best = best_function(val_loss, prev_best)\n\n if args.no_save or not distributed_utils.is_master(args):\n return\n\n def is_better(a, b):\n return a >= b if args.maximize_best_checkpoint_metric else a <= b\n\n write_timer = meters.StopwatchMeter()\n write_timer.start()\n\n epoch = epoch_itr.epoch\n end_of_epoch = epoch_itr.end_of_epoch()\n updates = trainer.get_num_updates()\n\n checkpoint_conds = collections.OrderedDict()\n checkpoint_conds[\"checkpoint{}.pt\".format(epoch)] = (\n end_of_epoch\n and not args.no_epoch_checkpoints\n and epoch % args.save_interval == 0\n )\n checkpoint_conds[\"checkpoint_{}_{}.pt\".format(epoch, updates)] = (\n not end_of_epoch\n and args.save_interval_updates > 0\n and updates % args.save_interval_updates == 0\n )\n checkpoint_conds[\"checkpoint_best.pt\"] = val_loss is not None and (\n not hasattr(save_checkpoint, \"best\")\n or is_better(val_loss, save_checkpoint.best)\n )\n checkpoint_conds[\"checkpoint_last.pt\"] = not args.no_last_checkpoints\n\n extra_state = {\"train_iterator\": epoch_itr.state_dict(), \"val_loss\": val_loss}\n if hasattr(save_checkpoint, \"best\"):\n extra_state.update({\"best\": save_checkpoint.best})\n\n checkpoints = [\n os.path.join(args.save_dir, fn) for fn, cond in checkpoint_conds.items() if cond\n ]\n if len(checkpoints) > 0:\n trainer.save_checkpoint(checkpoints[0], extra_state)\n for cp in checkpoints[1:]:\n try:\n from fairseq.fb_pathmgr import fb_pathmgr\n\n fb_pathmgr.copy(checkpoints[0], cp, True)\n except (ModuleNotFoundError, ImportError):\n shutil.copyfile(checkpoints[0], cp)\n\n write_timer.stop()\n print(\n \"| saved checkpoint {} (epoch {} @ {} updates) (writing took {} seconds)\".format(\n checkpoints[0], epoch, updates, write_timer.sum\n )\n )\n\n if not end_of_epoch and args.keep_interval_updates > 0:\n # remove old checkpoints; checkpoints are sorted in descending order\n checkpoints = checkpoint_paths(\n args.save_dir, pattern=r\"checkpoint_\\d+_(\\d+)\\.pt\"\n )\n for old_chk in checkpoints[args.keep_interval_updates :]:\n if os.path.lexists(old_chk):\n os.remove(old_chk)\n\n if args.keep_last_epochs > 0:\n # remove old epoch checkpoints; checkpoints are sorted in descending order\n checkpoints = checkpoint_paths(args.save_dir, pattern=r\"checkpoint(\\d+)\\.pt\")\n for old_chk in checkpoints[args.keep_last_epochs :]:\n if os.path.lexists(old_chk):\n os.remove(old_chk)\n\n\ndef load_checkpoint(args, trainer, **passthrough_args):\n \"\"\"\n Load a checkpoint and restore the training iterator.\n\n *passthrough_args* will be passed through to\n ``trainer.get_train_iterator``.\n \"\"\"\n # only one worker should attempt to create the required dir\n if args.distributed_rank == 0:\n os.makedirs(args.save_dir, exist_ok=True)\n\n if args.restore_file == \"checkpoint_last.pt\":\n checkpoint_path = os.path.join(args.save_dir, \"checkpoint_last.pt\")\n else:\n checkpoint_path = args.restore_file\n\n extra_state = trainer.load_checkpoint(\n checkpoint_path,\n args.reset_optimizer,\n args.reset_lr_scheduler,\n eval(args.optimizer_overrides),\n reset_meters=args.reset_meters,\n )\n\n if (\n extra_state is not None\n and \"best\" in extra_state\n and not args.reset_optimizer\n and not args.reset_meters\n ):\n save_checkpoint.best = extra_state[\"best\"]\n\n if extra_state is not None and not args.reset_dataloader:\n # restore iterator from checkpoint\n itr_state = extra_state[\"train_iterator\"]\n epoch_itr = trainer.get_train_iterator(\n epoch=itr_state[\"epoch\"], load_dataset=True, **passthrough_args\n )\n epoch_itr.load_state_dict(itr_state)\n else:\n epoch_itr = trainer.get_train_iterator(\n epoch=0, load_dataset=True, **passthrough_args\n )\n\n trainer.lr_step(epoch_itr.epoch)\n\n return extra_state, epoch_itr\n\n\ndef load_checkpoint_to_cpu(path, arg_overrides=None):\n \"\"\"Loads a checkpoint to CPU (with upgrading for backward compatibility).\"\"\"\n try:\n from fairseq.fb_pathmgr import fb_pathmgr\n\n with fb_pathmgr.open(path, \"rb\") as f:\n state = torch.load(\n f, map_location=lambda s, l: default_restore_location(s, \"cpu\")\n )\n except (ModuleNotFoundError, ImportError):\n # if path manager not found, continue with local file.\n state = torch.load(\n path, map_location=lambda s, l: default_restore_location(s, \"cpu\")\n )\n args = state[\"args\"]\n if arg_overrides is not None:\n for arg_name, arg_val in arg_overrides.items():\n setattr(args, arg_name, arg_val)\n state = _upgrade_state_dict(state)\n return state\n\n\ndef load_model_ensemble(filenames, arg_overrides=None, task=None):\n \"\"\"Loads an ensemble of models.\n\n Args:\n filenames (List[str]): checkpoint files to load\n arg_overrides (Dict[str,Any], optional): override model args that\n were used during model training\n task (fairseq.tasks.FairseqTask, optional): task to use for loading\n \"\"\"\n ensemble, args, _task = load_model_ensemble_and_task(filenames, arg_overrides, task)\n return ensemble, args\n\n\ndef load_model_ensemble_and_task(filenames, arg_overrides=None, task=None):\n from fairseq import tasks\n\n ensemble = []\n for filename in filenames:\n if not os.path.exists(filename):\n raise IOError(\"Model file not found: {}\".format(filename))\n state = load_checkpoint_to_cpu(filename, arg_overrides)\n\n args = state[\"args\"]\n if task is None:\n task = tasks.setup_task(args)\n\n # build model for ensemble\n model = task.build_model(args)\n model.load_state_dict(state[\"model\"], strict=True, args=args)\n ensemble.append(model)\n return ensemble, args, task\n\n\ndef checkpoint_paths(path, pattern=r\"checkpoint(\\d+)\\.pt\"):\n \"\"\"Retrieves all checkpoints found in `path` directory.\n\n Checkpoints are identified by matching filename to the specified pattern. If\n the pattern contains groups, the result will be sorted by the first group in\n descending order.\n \"\"\"\n pt_regexp = re.compile(pattern)\n files = os.listdir(path)\n\n entries = []\n for i, f in enumerate(files):\n m = pt_regexp.fullmatch(f)\n if m is not None:\n idx = int(m.group(1)) if len(m.groups()) > 0 else i\n entries.append((idx, m.group(0)))\n return [os.path.join(path, x[1]) for x in sorted(entries, reverse=True)]\n\n\ndef torch_persistent_save(*args, **kwargs):\n for i in range(3):\n try:\n return torch.save(*args, **kwargs)\n except Exception:\n if i == 2:\n logging.error(traceback.format_exc())\n\n\ndef convert_state_dict_type(state_dict, ttype=torch.FloatTensor):\n if isinstance(state_dict, dict):\n cpu_dict = OrderedDict()\n for k, v in state_dict.items():\n cpu_dict[k] = convert_state_dict_type(v)\n return cpu_dict\n elif isinstance(state_dict, list):\n return [convert_state_dict_type(v) for v in state_dict]\n elif torch.is_tensor(state_dict):\n return state_dict.type(ttype)\n else:\n return state_dict\n\n\ndef save_state(\n filename,\n args,\n model_state_dict,\n criterion,\n optimizer,\n lr_scheduler,\n num_updates,\n optim_history=None,\n extra_state=None,\n):\n from fairseq import utils\n\n if optim_history is None:\n optim_history = []\n if extra_state is None:\n extra_state = {}\n state_dict = {\n \"args\": args,\n \"model\": model_state_dict if model_state_dict else {},\n \"optimizer_history\": optim_history\n + [\n {\n \"criterion_name\": criterion.__class__.__name__,\n \"optimizer_name\": optimizer.__class__.__name__,\n \"lr_scheduler_state\": lr_scheduler.state_dict(),\n \"num_updates\": num_updates,\n }\n ],\n \"extra_state\": extra_state,\n }\n if utils.has_parameters(criterion):\n state_dict[\"criterion\"] = criterion.state_dict()\n if not args.no_save_optimizer_state:\n state_dict[\"last_optimizer_state\"] = convert_state_dict_type(\n optimizer.state_dict()\n )\n\n try:\n from fairseq.fb_pathmgr import fb_pathmgr\n\n with fb_pathmgr.open(filename, \"wb\") as f:\n torch_persistent_save(state_dict, f)\n except (ModuleNotFoundError, ImportError):\n # if path manager not found, continue with local file.\n torch_persistent_save(state_dict, filename)\n\n\ndef _upgrade_state_dict(state):\n \"\"\"Helper for upgrading old model checkpoints.\"\"\"\n from fairseq import models, registry, tasks\n\n # add optimizer_history\n if \"optimizer_history\" not in state:\n state[\"optimizer_history\"] = [\n {\"criterion_name\": \"CrossEntropyCriterion\", \"best_loss\": state[\"best_loss\"]}\n ]\n state[\"last_optimizer_state\"] = state[\"optimizer\"]\n del state[\"optimizer\"]\n del state[\"best_loss\"]\n # move extra_state into sub-dictionary\n if \"epoch\" in state and \"extra_state\" not in state:\n state[\"extra_state\"] = {\n \"epoch\": state[\"epoch\"],\n \"batch_offset\": state[\"batch_offset\"],\n \"val_loss\": state[\"val_loss\"],\n }\n del state[\"epoch\"]\n del state[\"batch_offset\"]\n del state[\"val_loss\"]\n # reduce optimizer history's memory usage (only keep the last state)\n if \"optimizer\" in state[\"optimizer_history\"][-1]:\n state[\"last_optimizer_state\"] = state[\"optimizer_history\"][-1][\"optimizer\"]\n for optim_hist in state[\"optimizer_history\"]:\n del optim_hist[\"optimizer\"]\n # record the optimizer class name\n if \"optimizer_name\" not in state[\"optimizer_history\"][-1]:\n state[\"optimizer_history\"][-1][\"optimizer_name\"] = \"FairseqNAG\"\n # move best_loss into lr_scheduler_state\n if \"lr_scheduler_state\" not in state[\"optimizer_history\"][-1]:\n state[\"optimizer_history\"][-1][\"lr_scheduler_state\"] = {\n \"best\": state[\"optimizer_history\"][-1][\"best_loss\"]\n }\n del state[\"optimizer_history\"][-1][\"best_loss\"]\n # keep track of number of updates\n if \"num_updates\" not in state[\"optimizer_history\"][-1]:\n state[\"optimizer_history\"][-1][\"num_updates\"] = 0\n # old model checkpoints may not have separate source/target positions\n if hasattr(state[\"args\"], \"max_positions\") and not hasattr(\n state[\"args\"], \"max_source_positions\"\n ):\n state[\"args\"].max_source_positions = state[\"args\"].max_positions\n state[\"args\"].max_target_positions = state[\"args\"].max_positions\n # use stateful training data iterator\n if \"train_iterator\" not in state[\"extra_state\"]:\n state[\"extra_state\"][\"train_iterator\"] = {\n \"epoch\": state[\"extra_state\"][\"epoch\"],\n \"iterations_in_epoch\": state[\"extra_state\"].get(\"batch_offset\", 0),\n }\n # default to translation task\n if not hasattr(state[\"args\"], \"task\"):\n state[\"args\"].task = \"translation\"\n\n # set any missing default values in the task, model or other registries\n registry.set_defaults(state[\"args\"], tasks.TASK_REGISTRY[state[\"args\"].task])\n registry.set_defaults(state[\"args\"], models.ARCH_MODEL_REGISTRY[state[\"args\"].arch])\n for registry_name, REGISTRY in registry.REGISTRIES.items():\n choice = getattr(state[\"args\"], registry_name, None)\n if choice is not None:\n cls = REGISTRY[\"registry\"][choice]\n registry.set_defaults(state[\"args\"], cls)\n\n return state\n\n\ndef prune_state_dict(state_dict, args):\n \"\"\"Prune the given state_dict if desired for LayerDrop\n (https://arxiv.org/abs/1909.11556).\n\n Training with LayerDrop allows models to be robust to pruning at inference\n time. This function prunes state_dict to allow smaller models to be loaded\n from a larger model and re-maps the existing state_dict for this to occur.\n\n It's called by functions that load models from checkpoints and does not\n need to be called directly.\n \"\"\"\n if not args or args.arch == \"ptt_transformer\":\n # args should not be none, but don't crash if it is.\n return state_dict\n\n encoder_layers_to_keep = (\n args.encoder_layers_to_keep if \"encoder_layers_to_keep\" in vars(args) else None\n )\n decoder_layers_to_keep = (\n args.decoder_layers_to_keep if \"decoder_layers_to_keep\" in vars(args) else None\n )\n\n if not encoder_layers_to_keep and not decoder_layers_to_keep:\n return state_dict\n\n # apply pruning\n print(\n \"| Pruning model to specified layer configuration - this works best if the model was trained with LayerDrop\"\n )\n\n def create_pruning_pass(layers_to_keep, layer_name):\n keep_layers = sorted(\n [int(layer_string) for layer_string in layers_to_keep.split(\",\")]\n )\n mapping_dict = {}\n for i in range(len(keep_layers)):\n mapping_dict[str(keep_layers[i])] = str(i)\n\n regex = re.compile(\"^{layer}.*\\.layers\\.(\\d+)\".format(layer=layer_name))\n return {\"substitution_regex\": regex, \"mapping_dict\": mapping_dict}\n\n pruning_passes = []\n if encoder_layers_to_keep:\n pruning_passes.append(create_pruning_pass(encoder_layers_to_keep, \"encoder\"))\n if decoder_layers_to_keep:\n pruning_passes.append(create_pruning_pass(decoder_layers_to_keep, \"decoder\"))\n\n new_state_dict = {}\n for layer_name in state_dict.keys():\n match = re.search(\"\\.layers\\.(\\d+)\\.\", layer_name)\n # if layer has no number in it, it is a supporting layer, such as an\n # embedding\n if not match:\n new_state_dict[layer_name] = state_dict[layer_name]\n continue\n\n # otherwise, layer should be pruned.\n original_layer_number = match.group(1)\n # figure out which mapping dict to replace from\n for pruning_pass in pruning_passes:\n if original_layer_number in pruning_pass[\"mapping_dict\"] and pruning_pass[\n \"substitution_regex\"\n ].search(layer_name):\n new_layer_number = pruning_pass[\"mapping_dict\"][original_layer_number]\n substitution_match = pruning_pass[\"substitution_regex\"].search(\n layer_name\n )\n new_state_key = (\n layer_name[: substitution_match.start(1)]\n + new_layer_number\n + layer_name[substitution_match.end(1) :]\n )\n new_state_dict[new_state_key] = state_dict[layer_name]\n\n # Since layers are now pruned, *_layers_to_keep are no longer needed.\n # This is more of \"It would make it work fix\" rather than a proper fix.\n if \"encoder_layers_to_keep\" in vars(args):\n args.encoder_layers_to_keep = None\n if \"decoder_layers_to_keep\" in vars(args):\n args.decoder_layers_to_keep = None\n\n return new_state_dict\n\n\ndef load_pretrained_component_from_model(\n component: Union[FairseqEncoder, FairseqDecoder], checkpoint: str\n):\n \"\"\"\n Load a pretrained FairseqEncoder or FairseqDecoder from checkpoint into the\n provided `component` object. If state_dict fails to load, there may be a\n mismatch in the architecture of the corresponding `component` found in the\n `checkpoint` file.\n \"\"\"\n if not os.path.exists(checkpoint):\n raise IOError(\"Model file not found: {}\".format(checkpoint))\n state = load_checkpoint_to_cpu(checkpoint)\n if isinstance(component, FairseqEncoder):\n component_type = \"encoder\"\n elif isinstance(component, FairseqDecoder):\n component_type = \"decoder\"\n else:\n raise ValueError(\n \"component to load must be either a FairseqEncoder or \"\n \"FairseqDecoder. Loading other component types are not supported.\"\n )\n component_state_dict = OrderedDict()\n for key in state[\"model\"].keys():\n if key.startswith(component_type):\n # encoder.input_layers.0.0.weight --> input_layers.0.0.weight\n component_subkey = key[len(component_type) + 1 :]\n component_state_dict[component_subkey] = state[\"model\"][key]\n component.load_state_dict(component_state_dict, strict=True)\n return component\n\n\ndef verify_checkpoint_directory(save_dir: str) -> None:\n if not os.path.exists(save_dir):\n os.makedirs(save_dir, exist_ok=True)\n temp_file_path = os.path.join(save_dir, \"dummy\")\n try:\n with open(temp_file_path, \"w\"):\n pass\n except OSError as e:\n print(\"| Unable to access checkpoint save directory: {}\".format(save_dir))\n raise e\n else:\n os.remove(temp_file_path)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/clib/libbleu/libbleu.cpp", "content": "/**\n * Copyright 2017-present, Facebook, Inc.\n * All rights reserved.\n *\n * This source code is licensed under the license found in the\n * LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n */\n\n#include <map>\n#include <array>\n#include <cstring>\n#include <cstdio>\n\ntypedef struct\n{\n size_t reflen;\n size_t predlen;\n size_t match1;\n size_t count1;\n size_t match2;\n size_t count2;\n size_t match3;\n size_t count3;\n size_t match4;\n size_t count4;\n} bleu_stat;\n\n// left trim (remove pad)\nvoid bleu_ltrim(size_t* len, int** sent, int pad) {\n size_t start = 0;\n while(start < *len) {\n if (*(*sent + start) != pad) { break; }\n start++;\n }\n *sent += start;\n *len -= start;\n}\n\n// right trim remove (eos)\nvoid bleu_rtrim(size_t* len, int** sent, int pad, int eos) {\n size_t end = *len - 1;\n while (end > 0) {\n if (*(*sent + end) != eos && *(*sent + end) != pad) { break; }\n end--;\n }\n *len = end + 1;\n}\n\n// left and right trim\nvoid bleu_trim(size_t* len, int** sent, int pad, int eos) {\n bleu_ltrim(len, sent, pad);\n bleu_rtrim(len, sent, pad, eos);\n}\n\nsize_t bleu_hash(int len, int* data) {\n size_t h = 14695981039346656037ul;\n size_t prime = 0x100000001b3;\n char* b = (char*) data;\n size_t blen = sizeof(int) * len;\n\n while (blen-- > 0) {\n h ^= *b++;\n h *= prime;\n }\n\n return h;\n}\n\nvoid bleu_addngram(\n size_t *ntotal, size_t *nmatch, size_t n,\n size_t reflen, int* ref, size_t predlen, int* pred) {\n\n if (predlen < n) { return; }\n\n predlen = predlen - n + 1;\n (*ntotal) += predlen;\n\n if (reflen < n) { return; }\n\n reflen = reflen - n + 1;\n\n std::map<size_t, size_t> count;\n while (predlen > 0) {\n size_t w = bleu_hash(n, pred++);\n count[w]++;\n predlen--;\n }\n\n while (reflen > 0) {\n size_t w = bleu_hash(n, ref++);\n if (count[w] > 0) {\n (*nmatch)++;\n count[w] -=1;\n }\n reflen--;\n }\n}\n\nextern \"C\" {\n\nvoid bleu_zero_init(bleu_stat* stat) {\n std::memset(stat, 0, sizeof(bleu_stat));\n}\n\nvoid bleu_one_init(bleu_stat* stat) {\n bleu_zero_init(stat);\n stat->count1 = 0;\n stat->count2 = 1;\n stat->count3 = 1;\n stat->count4 = 1;\n stat->match1 = 0;\n stat->match2 = 1;\n stat->match3 = 1;\n stat->match4 = 1;\n}\n\nvoid bleu_add(\n bleu_stat* stat,\n size_t reflen, int* ref, size_t predlen, int* pred, int pad, int eos) {\n\n bleu_trim(&reflen, &ref, pad, eos);\n bleu_trim(&predlen, &pred, pad, eos);\n stat->reflen += reflen;\n stat->predlen += predlen;\n\n bleu_addngram(&stat->count1, &stat->match1, 1, reflen, ref, predlen, pred);\n bleu_addngram(&stat->count2, &stat->match2, 2, reflen, ref, predlen, pred);\n bleu_addngram(&stat->count3, &stat->match3, 3, reflen, ref, predlen, pred);\n bleu_addngram(&stat->count4, &stat->match4, 4, reflen, ref, predlen, pred);\n}\n\n}\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/clib/libbleu/module.cpp", "content": "/**\n * Copyright 2017-present, Facebook, Inc.\n * All rights reserved.\n *\n * This source code is licensed under the license found in the\n * LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n */\n\n#include <Python.h>\n\n\nstatic PyMethodDef method_def[] = {\n {NULL, NULL, 0, NULL}\n};\n\nstatic struct PyModuleDef module_def = {\n PyModuleDef_HEAD_INIT,\n \"libbleu\", /* name of module */\n NULL, /* module documentation, may be NULL */\n -1, /* size of per-interpreter state of the module,\n or -1 if the module keeps state in global variables. */\n method_def\n};\n\n\n#if PY_MAJOR_VERSION == 2\nPyMODINIT_FUNC init_libbleu()\n#else\nPyMODINIT_FUNC PyInit_libbleu()\n#endif\n{\n PyObject *m = PyModule_Create(&module_def);\n if (!m) {\n return NULL;\n }\n return m;\n}\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/clib/libnat/edit_dist.cpp", "content": "/**\n * Copyright 2017-present, Facebook, Inc.\n * All rights reserved.\n *\n * This source code is licensed under the license found in the\n * LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n */\n\n#include <torch/torch.h> // @manual=//caffe2:torch_extension\n#include <vector>\n\nusing namespace ::std;\n\nvector<vector<uint32_t>> edit_distance2_with_dp(\n vector<uint32_t>& x,\n vector<uint32_t>& y) {\n uint32_t lx = x.size();\n uint32_t ly = y.size();\n vector<vector<uint32_t>> d(lx + 1, vector<uint32_t>(ly + 1));\n for (uint32_t i = 0; i < lx + 1; i++) {\n d[i][0] = i;\n }\n for (uint32_t j = 0; j < ly + 1; j++) {\n d[0][j] = j;\n }\n for (uint32_t i = 1; i < lx + 1; i++) {\n for (uint32_t j = 1; j < ly + 1; j++) {\n d[i][j] =\n min(min(d[i - 1][j], d[i][j - 1]) + 1,\n d[i - 1][j - 1] + 2 * (x.at(i - 1) == y.at(j - 1) ? 0 : 1));\n }\n }\n return d;\n}\n\nvector<vector<uint32_t>> edit_distance2_backtracking(\n vector<vector<uint32_t>>& d,\n vector<uint32_t>& x,\n vector<uint32_t>& y,\n uint32_t terminal_symbol) {\n vector<uint32_t> seq;\n vector<vector<uint32_t>> edit_seqs(x.size() + 2, vector<uint32_t>());\n /*\n edit_seqs:\n 0~x.size() cell is the insertion sequences\n last cell is the delete sequence\n */\n\n if (x.size() == 0) {\n edit_seqs.at(0) = y;\n return edit_seqs;\n }\n\n uint32_t i = d.size() - 1;\n uint32_t j = d.at(0).size() - 1;\n\n while ((i >= 0) && (j >= 0)) {\n if ((i == 0) && (j == 0)) {\n break;\n }\n\n if ((j > 0) && (d.at(i).at(j - 1) < d.at(i).at(j))) {\n seq.push_back(1); // insert\n seq.push_back(y.at(j - 1));\n j--;\n } else if ((i > 0) && (d.at(i - 1).at(j) < d.at(i).at(j))) {\n seq.push_back(2); // delete\n seq.push_back(x.at(i - 1));\n i--;\n } else {\n seq.push_back(3); // keep\n seq.push_back(x.at(i - 1));\n i--;\n j--;\n }\n }\n\n uint32_t prev_op, op, s, word;\n prev_op = 0, s = 0;\n for (uint32_t k = 0; k < seq.size() / 2; k++) {\n op = seq.at(seq.size() - 2 * k - 2);\n word = seq.at(seq.size() - 2 * k - 1);\n if (prev_op != 1) {\n s++;\n }\n if (op == 1) // insert\n {\n edit_seqs.at(s - 1).push_back(word);\n } else if (op == 2) // delete\n {\n edit_seqs.at(x.size() + 1).push_back(1);\n } else {\n edit_seqs.at(x.size() + 1).push_back(0);\n }\n\n prev_op = op;\n }\n\n for (uint32_t k = 0; k < edit_seqs.size(); k++) {\n if (edit_seqs[k].size() == 0) {\n edit_seqs[k].push_back(terminal_symbol);\n }\n }\n return edit_seqs;\n}\n\nvector<vector<uint32_t>> edit_distance2_backtracking_with_delete(\n vector<vector<uint32_t>>& d,\n vector<uint32_t>& x,\n vector<uint32_t>& y,\n uint32_t terminal_symbol,\n uint32_t deletion_symbol) {\n vector<uint32_t> seq;\n vector<vector<uint32_t>> edit_seqs(x.size() + 1, vector<uint32_t>());\n /*\n edit_seqs:\n 0~x.size() cell is the insertion sequences\n last cell is the delete sequence\n */\n\n if (x.size() == 0) {\n edit_seqs.at(0) = y;\n return edit_seqs;\n }\n\n uint32_t i = d.size() - 1;\n uint32_t j = d.at(0).size() - 1;\n\n while ((i >= 0) && (j >= 0)) {\n if ((i == 0) && (j == 0)) {\n break;\n }\n\n if ((j > 0) && (d.at(i).at(j - 1) < d.at(i).at(j))) {\n seq.push_back(1); // insert\n seq.push_back(y.at(j - 1));\n j--;\n } else if ((i > 0) && (d.at(i - 1).at(j) < d.at(i).at(j))) {\n seq.push_back(2); // delete\n seq.push_back(x.at(i - 1));\n i--;\n } else {\n seq.push_back(3); // keep\n seq.push_back(x.at(i - 1));\n i--;\n j--;\n }\n }\n\n uint32_t prev_op, op, s, word;\n prev_op = 0, s = 0;\n for (uint32_t k = 0; k < seq.size() / 2; k++) {\n op = seq.at(seq.size() - 2 * k - 2);\n word = seq.at(seq.size() - 2 * k - 1);\n if (prev_op != 1) {\n s++;\n }\n if (op == 1) // insert\n {\n edit_seqs.at(s - 1).push_back(word);\n } else if (op == 2) // delete\n {\n edit_seqs.at(s - 1).push_back(deletion_symbol);\n }\n\n prev_op = op;\n }\n\n for (uint32_t k = 0; k < edit_seqs.size(); k++) {\n if (edit_seqs.at(k).size() == 0) {\n edit_seqs.at(k).push_back(terminal_symbol);\n }\n }\n return edit_seqs;\n}\n\nvector<uint32_t> compute_ed2(\n vector<vector<uint32_t>>& xs,\n vector<vector<uint32_t>>& ys) {\n vector<uint32_t> distances(xs.size());\n for (uint32_t i = 0; i < xs.size(); i++) {\n vector<vector<uint32_t>> d = edit_distance2_with_dp(xs.at(i), ys.at(i));\n distances.at(i) = d.at(xs.at(i).size()).at(ys.at(i).size());\n }\n return distances;\n}\n\nvector<vector<vector<uint32_t>>> suggested_ed2_path(\n vector<vector<uint32_t>>& xs,\n vector<vector<uint32_t>>& ys,\n uint32_t terminal_symbol) {\n vector<vector<vector<uint32_t>>> seq(xs.size());\n for (uint32_t i = 0; i < xs.size(); i++) {\n vector<vector<uint32_t>> d = edit_distance2_with_dp(xs.at(i), ys.at(i));\n seq.at(i) =\n edit_distance2_backtracking(d, xs.at(i), ys.at(i), terminal_symbol);\n }\n return seq;\n}\n\nvector<vector<vector<uint32_t>>> suggested_ed2_path_with_delete(\n vector<vector<uint32_t>>& xs,\n vector<vector<uint32_t>>& ys,\n uint32_t terminal_symbol,\n uint32_t deletion_symbol) {\n vector<vector<vector<uint32_t>>> seq(xs.size());\n for (uint32_t i = 0; i < xs.size(); i++) {\n vector<vector<uint32_t>> d = edit_distance2_with_dp(xs.at(i), ys.at(i));\n seq.at(i) = edit_distance2_backtracking_with_delete(\n d, xs.at(i), ys.at(i), terminal_symbol, deletion_symbol);\n }\n return seq;\n}\n\nPYBIND11_MODULE(libnat, m) {\n m.def(\"compute_ed2\", &compute_ed2, \"compute_ed2\");\n m.def(\"suggested_ed2_path\", &suggested_ed2_path, \"suggested_ed2_path\");\n m.def(\n \"suggested_ed2_path_with_delete\",\n &suggested_ed2_path_with_delete,\n \"suggested_ed2_path_with_delete\");\n}\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/criterions/__init__.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport importlib\nimport os\n\nfrom fairseq import registry\nfrom fairseq.criterions.fairseq_criterion import FairseqCriterion\n\n\nbuild_criterion, register_criterion, CRITERION_REGISTRY = registry.setup_registry(\n \"--criterion\", base_class=FairseqCriterion, default=\"cross_entropy\",\n)\n\n\n# automatically import any Python files in the criterions/ directory\nfor file in os.listdir(os.path.dirname(__file__)):\n if file.endswith(\".py\") and not file.startswith(\"_\"):\n module = file[: file.find(\".py\")]\n importlib.import_module(\"fairseq.criterions.\" + module)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/criterions/adaptive_loss.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\n\nimport math\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\nfrom . import FairseqCriterion, register_criterion\n\n\n@register_criterion(\"adaptive_loss\")\nclass AdaptiveLoss(FairseqCriterion):\n \"\"\"This is an implementation of the loss function accompanying the adaptive softmax approximation for\n graphical processing units (GPU), described in the paper \"Efficient softmax approximation for GPUs\"\n (http://arxiv.org/abs/1609.04309).\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, args, task):\n super().__init__(args, task)\n\n if args.ddp_backend == \"c10d\":\n raise Exception(\n \"AdaptiveLoss is not compatible with the c10d \"\n \"version of DistributedDataParallel. Please use \"\n \"`--ddp-backend=no_c10d` instead.\"\n )\n\n def forward(self, model, sample, reduce=True):\n \"\"\"Compute the loss for the given sample.\n\n Returns a tuple with three elements:\n 1) the loss\n 2) the sample size, which is used as the denominator for the gradient\n 3) logging outputs to display while training\n \"\"\"\n\n assert (\n hasattr(model.decoder, \"adaptive_softmax\")\n and model.decoder.adaptive_softmax is not None\n )\n adaptive_softmax = model.decoder.adaptive_softmax\n\n net_output = model(**sample[\"net_input\"])\n orig_target = model.get_targets(sample, net_output)\n\n nsentences = orig_target.size(0)\n orig_target = orig_target.view(-1)\n\n bsz = orig_target.size(0)\n\n logits, target = adaptive_softmax(net_output[0], orig_target)\n assert len(target) == len(logits)\n\n loss = net_output[0].new(1 if reduce else bsz).zero_()\n\n for i in range(len(target)):\n if target[i] is not None:\n assert target[i].min() >= 0 and target[i].max() <= logits[i].size(1)\n loss += F.cross_entropy(\n logits[i],\n target[i],\n ignore_index=self.padding_idx,\n reduction=\"sum\" if reduce else \"none\",\n )\n\n orig = utils.strip_pad(orig_target, self.padding_idx)\n ntokens = orig.numel()\n sample_size = sample[\"target\"].size(0) if self.args.sentence_avg else ntokens\n logging_output = {\n \"loss\": utils.item(loss.data) if reduce else loss.data,\n \"ntokens\": ntokens,\n \"nsentences\": nsentences,\n \"sample_size\": sample_size,\n }\n return loss, sample_size, logging_output\n\n @staticmethod\n def aggregate_logging_outputs(logging_outputs):\n \"\"\"Aggregate logging outputs from data parallel training.\"\"\"\n loss_sum = sum(log.get(\"loss\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n ntokens = sum(log.get(\"ntokens\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n nsentences = sum(log.get(\"nsentences\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n sample_size = sum(log.get(\"sample_size\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n agg_output = {\n \"loss\": loss_sum / sample_size / math.log(2) if sample_size > 0 else 0.0,\n \"nll_loss\": loss_sum / sample_size / math.log(2)\n if sample_size > 0\n else 0.0,\n \"ntokens\": ntokens,\n \"nsentences\": nsentences,\n \"sample_size\": sample_size,\n }\n if sample_size != ntokens:\n agg_output[\"nll_loss\"] = (\n loss_sum / ntokens / math.log(2) if ntokens > 0 else 0.0\n )\n return agg_output\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/criterions/binary_cross_entropy.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport math\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\n\nfrom . import FairseqCriterion, register_criterion\n\n\n@register_criterion(\"binary_cross_entropy\")\nclass BinaryCrossEntropyCriterion(FairseqCriterion):\n def __init__(self, args, task):\n super().__init__(args, task)\n\n def forward(self, model, sample, reduce=True):\n \"\"\"Compute the loss for the given sample.\n\n Returns a tuple with three elements:\n 1) the loss\n 2) the sample size, which is used as the denominator for the gradient\n 3) logging outputs to display while training\n \"\"\"\n net_output = model(**sample[\"net_input\"])\n logits = model.get_logits(net_output).float()\n target = model.get_targets(sample, net_output, expand_steps=False).float()\n\n if hasattr(model, \"get_target_weights\"):\n weights = model.get_target_weights(target, net_output)\n if torch.is_tensor(weights):\n weights = weights.float()\n else:\n weights = 1.0\n\n loss = F.binary_cross_entropy_with_logits(logits, target, reduce=False)\n\n loss = loss * weights\n\n if reduce:\n loss = loss.sum()\n\n sample_size = target.numel()\n logging_output = {\n \"loss\": utils.item(loss.data) if reduce else loss.data,\n \"ntokens\": sample_size,\n \"nsentences\": logits.size(0),\n \"sample_size\": sample_size,\n }\n return loss, sample_size, logging_output\n\n @staticmethod\n def aggregate_logging_outputs(logging_outputs):\n \"\"\"Aggregate logging outputs from data parallel training.\"\"\"\n loss_sum = sum(log.get(\"loss\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n ntokens = sum(log.get(\"ntokens\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n nsentences = sum(log.get(\"nsentences\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n sample_size = sum(log.get(\"sample_size\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n agg_output = {\n \"loss\": loss_sum / sample_size / math.log(2),\n \"ntokens\": ntokens,\n \"nsentences\": nsentences,\n \"sample_size\": sample_size,\n }\n if sample_size != ntokens:\n agg_output[\"nll_loss\"] = loss_sum / ntokens / math.log(2)\n return agg_output\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/criterions/composite_loss.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom torch import nn\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\nfrom . import FairseqCriterion, register_criterion\n\n\n@register_criterion(\"composite_loss\")\nclass CompositeLoss(FairseqCriterion):\n \"\"\"This is a composite loss that, given a list of model outputs and a list of targets,\n computes an average of losses for each output-target pair\"\"\"\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add criterion-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument('--underlying-criterion', type=str, metavar='VAL', required=True,\n help='underlying criterion to use for the composite loss')\n # fmt: on\n\n @staticmethod\n def build_underlying_criterion(args, task):\n saved_criterion = args.criterion\n args.criterion = args.underlying_criterion\n assert saved_criterion != args.underlying_criterion\n underlying_criterion = task.build_criterion(args)\n args.criterion = saved_criterion\n return underlying_criterion\n\n @classmethod\n def build_criterion(cls, args, task):\n underlying_criterion = CompositeLoss.build_underlying_criterion(args, task)\n\n class FakeModel(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, model, net_out, target):\n super().__init__()\n self.model = model\n self.net_out = net_out\n self.target = target\n\n def forward(self, **unused):\n return self.net_out\n\n def get_normalized_probs(self, net_output, log_probs, sample=None):\n return self.model.get_normalized_probs(\n net_output, log_probs, sample=sample\n )\n\n def get_targets(self, *unused):\n return self.target\n\n @property\n def decoder(self):\n return self.model.decoder\n\n class _CompositeLoss(FairseqCriterion):\n def __init__(self, args, task, underlying_criterion):\n super().__init__(args, task)\n self.underlying_criterion = underlying_criterion\n\n def forward(self, model, sample, reduce=True):\n net_outputs = model(**sample[\"net_input\"])\n targets = sample[\"target\"]\n\n bsz = targets[0].size(0)\n loss = net_outputs[0][0].new(1 if reduce else bsz).float().zero_()\n\n sample_size = 0\n logging_output = {}\n for o, t in zip(net_outputs[0], targets):\n m = FakeModel(model, (o, net_outputs[1]), t)\n sample[\"target\"] = t\n l, ss, logging_output = self.underlying_criterion(m, sample, reduce)\n loss += l\n sample_size += ss\n\n loss.div_(len(targets))\n sample_size /= len(targets)\n\n logging_output[\"loss\"] = utils.item(loss.data) if reduce else loss.data\n return loss, sample_size, logging_output\n\n @staticmethod\n def aggregate_logging_outputs(logging_outputs):\n return underlying_criterion.__class__.aggregate_logging_outputs(\n logging_outputs\n )\n\n return _CompositeLoss(args, task, underlying_criterion)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/criterions/cross_entropy.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport math\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\n\nfrom . import FairseqCriterion, register_criterion\n\n\n@register_criterion(\"cross_entropy\")\nclass CrossEntropyCriterion(FairseqCriterion):\n def __init__(self, args, task):\n super().__init__(args, task)\n\n def forward(self, model, sample, reduce=True):\n \"\"\"Compute the loss for the given sample.\n\n Returns a tuple with three elements:\n 1) the loss\n 2) the sample size, which is used as the denominator for the gradient\n 3) logging outputs to display while training\n \"\"\"\n net_output = model(**sample[\"net_input\"])\n loss, _ = self.compute_loss(model, net_output, sample, reduce=reduce)\n sample_size = (\n sample[\"target\"].size(0) if self.args.sentence_avg else sample[\"ntokens\"]\n )\n logging_output = {\n \"loss\": utils.item(loss.data) if reduce else loss.data,\n \"nll_loss\": utils.item(loss.data) if reduce else loss.data,\n \"ntokens\": sample[\"ntokens\"],\n \"nsentences\": sample[\"target\"].size(0),\n \"sample_size\": sample_size,\n }\n return loss, sample_size, logging_output\n\n def compute_loss(self, model, net_output, sample, reduce=True):\n lprobs = model.get_normalized_probs(net_output, log_probs=True)\n lprobs = lprobs.view(-1, lprobs.size(-1))\n target = model.get_targets(sample, net_output).view(-1)\n loss = F.nll_loss(\n lprobs,\n target,\n ignore_index=self.padding_idx,\n reduction=\"sum\" if reduce else \"none\",\n )\n return loss, loss\n\n @staticmethod\n def aggregate_logging_outputs(logging_outputs):\n \"\"\"Aggregate logging outputs from data parallel training.\"\"\"\n loss_sum = sum(log.get(\"loss\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n ntokens = sum(log.get(\"ntokens\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n nsentences = sum(log.get(\"nsentences\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n sample_size = sum(log.get(\"sample_size\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n agg_output = {\n \"loss\": loss_sum / sample_size / math.log(2) if sample_size > 0 else 0.0,\n \"ntokens\": ntokens,\n \"nsentences\": nsentences,\n \"sample_size\": sample_size,\n }\n if sample_size != ntokens:\n agg_output[\"nll_loss\"] = loss_sum / ntokens / math.log(2)\n return agg_output\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/criterions/fairseq_criterion.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom torch.nn.modules.loss import _Loss\n\n\nclass FairseqCriterion(_Loss):\n def __init__(self, args, task):\n super().__init__()\n self.args = args\n self.task = task\n self.padding_idx = (\n task.target_dictionary.pad() if task.target_dictionary is not None else -100\n )\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add criterion-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n pass\n\n @classmethod\n def build_criterion(cls, args, task):\n return cls(args, task)\n\n def forward(self, model, sample, reduce=True):\n \"\"\"Compute the loss for the given sample.\n\n Returns a tuple with three elements:\n 1) the loss\n 2) the sample size, which is used as the denominator for the gradient\n 3) logging outputs to display while training\n \"\"\"\n raise NotImplementedError\n\n @staticmethod\n def aggregate_logging_outputs(logging_outputs):\n \"\"\"Aggregate logging outputs from data parallel training.\"\"\"\n raise NotImplementedError\n\n @staticmethod\n def grad_denom(sample_sizes):\n \"\"\"Compute the gradient denominator for a set of sample sizes.\"\"\"\n return sum(sample_sizes)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/criterions/label_smoothed_cross_entropy.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport math\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\n\nfrom . import FairseqCriterion, register_criterion\n\n\ndef label_smoothed_nll_loss(lprobs, target, epsilon, ignore_index=None, reduce=True):\n if target.dim() == lprobs.dim() - 1:\n target = target.unsqueeze(-1)\n nll_loss = -lprobs.gather(dim=-1, index=target)\n smooth_loss = -lprobs.sum(dim=-1, keepdim=True)\n if ignore_index is not None:\n non_pad_mask = target.ne(ignore_index)\n nll_loss = nll_loss[non_pad_mask]\n smooth_loss = smooth_loss[non_pad_mask]\n else:\n nll_loss = nll_loss.squeeze(-1)\n smooth_loss = smooth_loss.squeeze(-1)\n if reduce:\n nll_loss = nll_loss.sum()\n smooth_loss = smooth_loss.sum()\n eps_i = epsilon / lprobs.size(-1)\n loss = (1.0 - epsilon) * nll_loss + eps_i * smooth_loss\n return loss, nll_loss\n\n\n@register_criterion(\"label_smoothed_cross_entropy\")\nclass LabelSmoothedCrossEntropyCriterion(FairseqCriterion):\n def __init__(self, args, task):\n super().__init__(args, task)\n self.eps = args.label_smoothing\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add criterion-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument('--label-smoothing', default=0., type=float, metavar='D',\n help='epsilon for label smoothing, 0 means no label smoothing')\n # fmt: on\n\n def forward(self, model, sample, reduce=True):\n \"\"\"Compute the loss for the given sample.\n\n Returns a tuple with three elements:\n 1) the loss\n 2) the sample size, which is used as the denominator for the gradient\n 3) logging outputs to display while training\n \"\"\"\n net_output = model(**sample[\"net_input\"])\n loss, nll_loss = self.compute_loss(model, net_output, sample, reduce=reduce)\n sample_size = (\n sample[\"target\"].size(0) if self.args.sentence_avg else sample[\"ntokens\"]\n )\n logging_output = {\n \"loss\": utils.item(loss.data) if reduce else loss.data,\n \"nll_loss\": utils.item(nll_loss.data) if reduce else nll_loss.data,\n \"ntokens\": sample[\"ntokens\"],\n \"nsentences\": sample[\"target\"].size(0),\n \"sample_size\": sample_size,\n }\n return loss, sample_size, logging_output\n\n def compute_loss(self, model, net_output, sample, reduce=True):\n lprobs = model.get_normalized_probs(net_output, log_probs=True)\n lprobs = lprobs.view(-1, lprobs.size(-1))\n target = model.get_targets(sample, net_output).view(-1, 1)\n loss, nll_loss = label_smoothed_nll_loss(\n lprobs, target, self.eps, ignore_index=self.padding_idx, reduce=reduce,\n )\n return loss, nll_loss\n\n @staticmethod\n def aggregate_logging_outputs(logging_outputs):\n \"\"\"Aggregate logging outputs from data parallel training.\"\"\"\n ntokens = sum(log.get(\"ntokens\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n nsentences = sum(log.get(\"nsentences\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n sample_size = sum(log.get(\"sample_size\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n return {\n \"loss\": sum(log.get(\"loss\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n / sample_size\n / math.log(2)\n if sample_size > 0\n else 0.0,\n \"nll_loss\": sum(log.get(\"nll_loss\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n / ntokens\n / math.log(2)\n if ntokens > 0\n else 0.0,\n \"ntokens\": ntokens,\n \"nsentences\": nsentences,\n \"sample_size\": sample_size,\n }\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/criterions/label_smoothed_cross_entropy_with_alignment.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport math\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\n\nfrom .label_smoothed_cross_entropy import LabelSmoothedCrossEntropyCriterion\nfrom . import register_criterion\n\n\n@register_criterion(\"label_smoothed_cross_entropy_with_alignment\")\nclass LabelSmoothedCrossEntropyCriterionWithAlignment(\n LabelSmoothedCrossEntropyCriterion\n):\n def __init__(self, args, task):\n super().__init__(args, task)\n self.alignment_lambda = args.alignment_lambda\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add criterion-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n super(\n LabelSmoothedCrossEntropyCriterionWithAlignment,\n LabelSmoothedCrossEntropyCriterionWithAlignment,\n ).add_args(parser)\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--alignment-lambda\",\n default=0.05,\n type=float,\n metavar=\"D\",\n help=\"weight for the alignment loss\",\n )\n\n def forward(self, model, sample, reduce=True):\n \"\"\"Compute the loss for the given sample.\n\n Returns a tuple with three elements:\n 1) the loss\n 2) the sample size, which is used as the denominator for the gradient\n 3) logging outputs to display while training\n \"\"\"\n net_output = model(**sample[\"net_input\"])\n loss, nll_loss = self.compute_loss(model, net_output, sample, reduce=reduce)\n sample_size = (\n sample[\"target\"].size(0) if self.args.sentence_avg else sample[\"ntokens\"]\n )\n logging_output = {\n \"loss\": utils.item(loss.data) if reduce else loss.data,\n \"nll_loss\": utils.item(nll_loss.data) if reduce else nll_loss.data,\n \"ntokens\": sample[\"ntokens\"],\n \"nsentences\": sample[\"target\"].size(0),\n \"sample_size\": sample_size,\n }\n\n alignment_loss = None\n\n # Compute alignment loss only for training set and non dummy batches.\n if \"alignments\" in sample and sample[\"alignments\"] is not None:\n alignment_loss = self.compute_alignment_loss(sample, net_output)\n\n if alignment_loss is not None:\n logging_output[\"alignment_loss\"] = utils.item(alignment_loss.data)\n loss += self.alignment_lambda * alignment_loss\n\n return loss, sample_size, logging_output\n\n def compute_alignment_loss(self, sample, net_output):\n attn_prob = net_output[1][\"attn\"]\n bsz, tgt_sz, src_sz = attn_prob.shape\n attn = attn_prob.view(bsz * tgt_sz, src_sz)\n\n align = sample[\"alignments\"]\n align_weights = sample[\"align_weights\"].float()\n\n if len(align) > 0:\n # Alignment loss computation. align (shape [:, 2]) contains the src-tgt index pairs corresponding to\n # the alignments. align_weights (shape [:]) contains the 1 / frequency of a tgt index for normalizing.\n loss = -(\n (attn[align[:, 1][:, None], align[:, 0][:, None]]).log()\n * align_weights[:, None]\n ).sum()\n else:\n return None\n\n return loss\n\n @staticmethod\n def aggregate_logging_outputs(logging_outputs):\n \"\"\"Aggregate logging outputs from data parallel training.\"\"\"\n ntokens = sum(log.get(\"ntokens\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n nsentences = sum(log.get(\"nsentences\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n sample_size = sum(log.get(\"sample_size\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n return {\n \"loss\": sum(log.get(\"loss\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n / sample_size\n / math.log(2)\n if sample_size > 0\n else 0.0,\n \"nll_loss\": sum(log.get(\"nll_loss\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n / ntokens\n / math.log(2)\n if ntokens > 0\n else 0.0,\n \"alignment_loss\": sum(\n log.get(\"alignment_loss\", 0) for log in logging_outputs\n )\n / sample_size\n / math.log(2)\n if sample_size > 0\n else 0.0,\n \"ntokens\": ntokens,\n \"nsentences\": nsentences,\n \"sample_size\": sample_size,\n }\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/criterions/legacy_masked_lm.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\n\nimport math\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\nfrom . import FairseqCriterion, register_criterion\n\n\ndef compute_cross_entropy_loss(logits, targets, ignore_index=-100):\n \"\"\"\n Function to compute the cross entropy loss. The default value of\n ignore_index is the same as the default value for F.cross_entropy in\n pytorch.\n \"\"\"\n assert logits.size(0) == targets.size(\n -1\n ), \"Logits and Targets tensor shapes don't match up\"\n\n loss = F.nll_loss(\n F.log_softmax(logits, -1, dtype=torch.float32),\n targets,\n reduction=\"sum\",\n ignore_index=ignore_index,\n )\n return loss\n\n\n@register_criterion(\"legacy_masked_lm_loss\")\nclass LegacyMaskedLmLoss(FairseqCriterion):\n \"\"\"\n Implementation for the loss used in masked language model (MLM) training.\n This optionally also computes the next sentence prediction (NSP) loss and\n adds it to the overall loss based on the specified args. There are three\n cases to consider:\n 1) Generic MLM training without NSP loss. In this case sentence_targets\n and sentence_logits are both None.\n 2) BERT training without NSP loss. In this case sentence_targets is\n not None but sentence_logits is None and we should not be computing\n a sentence level loss.\n 3) BERT training with NSP loss. In this case both sentence_targets and\n sentence_logits are not None and we should be computing a sentence\n level loss. The weight of the sentence level loss is specified as\n an argument.\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, args, task):\n super().__init__(args, task)\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Args for MaskedLM Loss\"\"\"\n # Default for masked_lm_only is False so as to not break BERT training\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--masked-lm-only\",\n default=False,\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"compute MLM loss only\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--nsp-loss-weight\",\n default=1.0,\n type=float,\n help=\"weight for next sentence prediction\" \" loss (default 1)\",\n )\n\n def forward(self, model, sample, reduce=True):\n \"\"\"Compute the loss for the given sample.\n Returns a tuple with three elements:\n 1) the loss\n 2) the sample size, which is used as the denominator for the gradient\n 3) logging outputs to display while training\n \"\"\"\n lm_logits, output_metadata = model(**sample[\"net_input\"])\n\n # reshape lm_logits from (N,T,C) to (N*T,C)\n lm_logits = lm_logits.view(-1, lm_logits.size(-1))\n lm_targets = sample[\"lm_target\"].view(-1)\n lm_loss = compute_cross_entropy_loss(lm_logits, lm_targets, self.padding_idx)\n\n # compute the number of tokens for which loss is computed. This is used\n # to normalize the loss\n ntokens = utils.strip_pad(lm_targets, self.padding_idx).numel()\n loss = lm_loss / ntokens\n nsentences = sample[\"nsentences\"]\n # nsentences = 0\n\n # Compute sentence loss if masked_lm_only is False\n sentence_loss = None\n if not self.args.masked_lm_only:\n sentence_logits = output_metadata[\"sentence_logits\"]\n sentence_targets = sample[\"sentence_target\"].view(-1)\n # This needs to be recomputed due to some differences between\n # TokenBlock and BlockPair dataset. This can be resolved with a\n # refactor of BERTModel which we will do in the future.\n # TODO: Remove this after refactor of BERTModel\n nsentences = sentence_targets.size(0)\n\n # Check for logits being none which can happen when remove_heads\n # is set to true in the BERT model. Ideally we should set\n # masked_lm_only to true in this case, but that requires some\n # refactor in the BERT model.\n if sentence_logits is not None:\n sentence_loss = compute_cross_entropy_loss(\n sentence_logits, sentence_targets\n )\n\n loss += self.args.nsp_loss_weight * (sentence_loss / nsentences)\n\n # NOTE: as we are summing up per token mlm loss and per sentence nsp loss\n # we don't need to use sample_size as denominator for the gradient\n # here sample_size is just used for logging\n sample_size = 1\n logging_output = {\n \"loss\": utils.item(loss.data) if reduce else loss.data,\n \"lm_loss\": utils.item(lm_loss.data) if reduce else lm_loss.data,\n # sentence loss is not always computed\n \"sentence_loss\": (\n (utils.item(sentence_loss.data) if reduce else sentence_loss.data)\n if sentence_loss is not None\n else 0.0\n ),\n \"ntokens\": ntokens,\n \"nsentences\": nsentences,\n \"sample_size\": sample_size,\n }\n return loss, sample_size, logging_output\n\n @staticmethod\n def aggregate_logging_outputs(logging_outputs):\n \"\"\"Aggregate logging outputs from data parallel training.\"\"\"\n lm_loss_sum = sum(log.get(\"lm_loss\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n sentence_loss_sum = sum(log.get(\"sentence_loss\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n ntokens = sum(log.get(\"ntokens\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n nsentences = sum(log.get(\"nsentences\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n sample_size = sum(log.get(\"sample_size\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n agg_loss = sum(log.get(\"loss\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n\n agg_output = {\n \"loss\": agg_loss / sample_size / math.log(2) if sample_size > 0 else 0.0,\n \"lm_loss\": lm_loss_sum / ntokens / math.log(2) if ntokens > 0 else 0.0,\n \"sentence_loss\": sentence_loss_sum / nsentences / math.log(2)\n if nsentences > 0\n else 0.0,\n \"nll_loss\": lm_loss_sum / ntokens / math.log(2) if ntokens > 0 else 0.0,\n \"ntokens\": ntokens,\n \"nsentences\": nsentences,\n \"sample_size\": sample_size,\n }\n return agg_output\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/criterions/masked_lm.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport math\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\n\nfrom . import FairseqCriterion, register_criterion\n\n\n@register_criterion(\"masked_lm\")\nclass MaskedLmLoss(FairseqCriterion):\n \"\"\"\n Implementation for the loss used in masked language model (MLM) training.\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, args, task):\n super().__init__(args, task)\n\n def forward(self, model, sample, reduce=True):\n \"\"\"Compute the loss for the given sample.\n Returns a tuple with three elements:\n 1) the loss\n 2) the sample size, which is used as the denominator for the gradient\n 3) logging outputs to display while training\n \"\"\"\n # compute MLM loss\n masked_tokens = sample[\"target\"].ne(self.padding_idx)\n sample_size = masked_tokens.int().sum().item()\n\n # (Rare case) When all tokens are masked, the model results in empty\n # tensor and gives CUDA error.\n if sample_size == 0:\n masked_tokens = None\n\n logits = model(**sample[\"net_input\"], masked_tokens=masked_tokens)[0]\n targets = model.get_targets(sample, [logits])\n\n if sample_size != 0:\n targets = targets[masked_tokens]\n\n loss = F.nll_loss(\n F.log_softmax(\n logits.view(-1, logits.size(-1)), dim=-1, dtype=torch.float32,\n ),\n targets.view(-1),\n reduction=\"sum\",\n ignore_index=self.padding_idx,\n )\n logging_output = {\n \"loss\": utils.item(loss.data) if reduce else loss.data,\n \"nll_loss\": utils.item(loss.data) if reduce else loss.data,\n \"ntokens\": sample[\"ntokens\"],\n \"nsentences\": sample[\"nsentences\"],\n \"sample_size\": sample_size,\n }\n return loss, sample_size, logging_output\n\n @staticmethod\n def aggregate_logging_outputs(logging_outputs):\n \"\"\"Aggregate logging outputs from data parallel training.\"\"\"\n loss = sum(log.get(\"loss\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n ntokens = sum(log.get(\"ntokens\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n nsentences = sum(log.get(\"nsentences\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n sample_size = sum(log.get(\"sample_size\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n\n agg_output = {\n \"loss\": loss / sample_size / math.log(2),\n \"nll_loss\": sum(log.get(\"nll_loss\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n / sample_size\n / math.log(2)\n if ntokens > 0\n else 0.0,\n \"ntokens\": ntokens,\n \"nsentences\": nsentences,\n \"sample_size\": sample_size,\n }\n return agg_output\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/criterions/nat_loss.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport math\n\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\nfrom fairseq import utils\nimport torch\nfrom torch import Tensor\n\nfrom . import FairseqCriterion, register_criterion\n\n\n@register_criterion(\"nat_loss\")\nclass LabelSmoothedDualImitationCriterion(FairseqCriterion):\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add criterion-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument(\n '--label-smoothing',\n default=0.,\n type=float,\n metavar='D',\n help='epsilon for label smoothing, 0 means no label smoothing')\n # fmt: on\n\n def _compute_loss(\n self, outputs, targets, masks=None, label_smoothing=0.0, name=\"loss\", factor=1.0\n ):\n \"\"\"\n outputs: batch x len x d_model\n targets: batch x len\n masks: batch x len\n\n policy_logprob: if there is some policy\n depends on the likelihood score as rewards.\n \"\"\"\n\n def mean_ds(x: Tensor, dim=None) -> Tensor:\n return (\n x.float().mean().type_as(x)\n if dim is None\n else x.float().mean(dim).type_as(x)\n )\n\n if masks is not None:\n outputs, targets = outputs[masks], targets[masks]\n\n if masks is not None and not masks.any():\n nll_loss = torch.tensor(0)\n loss = nll_loss\n else:\n logits = F.log_softmax(outputs, dim=-1)\n if targets.dim() == 1:\n losses = F.nll_loss(logits, targets.to(logits.device), reduction=\"none\")\n\n else: # soft-labels\n losses = F.kl_div(logits, targets.to(logits.device), reduction=\"none\")\n losses = losses.sum(-1)\n\n nll_loss = mean_ds(losses)\n if label_smoothing > 0:\n loss = (\n nll_loss * (1 - label_smoothing) - mean_ds(logits) * label_smoothing\n )\n else:\n loss = nll_loss\n\n loss = loss * factor\n return {\"name\": name, \"loss\": loss, \"nll_loss\": nll_loss, \"factor\": factor}\n\n def _custom_loss(self, loss, name=\"loss\", factor=1.0):\n return {\"name\": name, \"loss\": loss, \"factor\": factor}\n\n def forward(self, model, sample, reduce=True):\n \"\"\"Compute the loss for the given sample.\n Returns a tuple with three elements:\n 1) the loss\n 2) the sample size, which is used as the denominator for the gradient\n 3) logging outputs to display while training\n \"\"\"\n nsentences, ntokens = sample[\"nsentences\"], sample[\"ntokens\"]\n\n # B x T\n src_tokens, src_lengths = (\n sample[\"net_input\"][\"src_tokens\"],\n sample[\"net_input\"][\"src_lengths\"],\n )\n tgt_tokens, prev_output_tokens = sample[\"target\"], sample[\"prev_target\"]\n\n outputs = model(src_tokens, src_lengths, prev_output_tokens, tgt_tokens)\n losses, nll_loss = [], []\n\n for obj in outputs:\n if outputs[obj].get(\"loss\", None) is None:\n _losses = self._compute_loss(\n outputs[obj].get(\"out\"),\n outputs[obj].get(\"tgt\"),\n outputs[obj].get(\"mask\", None),\n outputs[obj].get(\"ls\", 0.0),\n name=obj + \"-loss\",\n factor=outputs[obj].get(\"factor\", 1.0),\n )\n else:\n _losses = self._custom_loss(\n outputs[obj].get(\"loss\"),\n name=obj + \"-loss\",\n factor=outputs[obj].get(\"factor\", 1.0),\n )\n\n losses += [_losses]\n if outputs[obj].get(\"nll_loss\", False):\n nll_loss += [_losses.get(\"nll_loss\", 0.0)]\n\n loss = sum(l[\"loss\"] for l in losses)\n nll_loss = sum(l for l in nll_loss) if len(nll_loss) > 0 else loss.new_tensor(0)\n\n # NOTE:\n # we don't need to use sample_size as denominator for the gradient\n # here sample_size is just used for logging\n sample_size = 1\n logging_output = {\n \"loss\": utils.item(loss.data) if reduce else loss.data,\n \"nll_loss\": utils.item(nll_loss.data) if reduce else nll_loss.data,\n \"ntokens\": ntokens,\n \"nsentences\": nsentences,\n \"sample_size\": sample_size,\n }\n\n for l in losses:\n logging_output[l[\"name\"]] = (\n utils.item(l[\"loss\"].data / l[\"factor\"])\n if reduce\n else l[[\"loss\"]].data / l[\"factor\"]\n )\n\n return loss, sample_size, logging_output\n\n @staticmethod\n def aggregate_logging_outputs(logging_outputs):\n \"\"\"Aggregate logging outputs from data parallel training.\"\"\"\n ntokens = sum(log.get(\"ntokens\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n nsentences = sum(log.get(\"nsentences\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n sample_size = sum(log.get(\"sample_size\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n loss = sum(log.get(\"loss\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n nll_loss = sum(log.get(\"nll_loss\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n\n results = {\n \"loss\": loss / sample_size / math.log(2) if sample_size > 0 else 0.0,\n \"nll_loss\": nll_loss / sample_size / math.log(2)\n if sample_size > 0\n else 0.0,\n \"ntokens\": ntokens,\n \"nsentences\": nsentences,\n \"sample_size\": sample_size,\n }\n\n for key in logging_outputs[0]:\n if key[-5:] == \"-loss\":\n results[key[:-5]] = (\n sum(log.get(key, 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n / sample_size\n / math.log(2)\n if sample_size > 0\n else 0.0\n )\n\n return results\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/criterions/sentence_prediction.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport math\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\n\nfrom . import FairseqCriterion, register_criterion\n\n\n@register_criterion(\"sentence_prediction\")\nclass SentencePredictionCriterion(FairseqCriterion):\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument('--save-predictions', metavar='FILE',\n help='file to save predictions to')\n # fmt: on\n\n def forward(self, model, sample, reduce=True):\n \"\"\"Compute the loss for the given sample.\n\n Returns a tuple with three elements:\n 1) the loss\n 2) the sample size, which is used as the denominator for the gradient\n 3) logging outputs to display while training\n \"\"\"\n assert (\n hasattr(model, \"classification_heads\")\n and \"sentence_classification_head\" in model.classification_heads\n ), \"model must provide sentence classification head for --criterion=sentence_prediction\"\n\n logits, _ = model(\n **sample[\"net_input\"],\n features_only=True,\n classification_head_name=\"sentence_classification_head\",\n )\n targets = model.get_targets(sample, [logits]).view(-1)\n sample_size = targets.numel()\n\n if not self.args.regression_target:\n loss = F.nll_loss(\n F.log_softmax(logits, dim=-1, dtype=torch.float32),\n targets,\n reduction=\"sum\",\n )\n else:\n logits = logits.squeeze().float()\n targets = targets.float()\n loss = F.mse_loss(logits, targets, reduction=\"sum\",)\n\n logging_output = {\n \"loss\": utils.item(loss.data) if reduce else loss.data,\n \"ntokens\": sample[\"ntokens\"],\n \"nsentences\": sample_size,\n \"sample_size\": sample_size,\n }\n\n if not self.args.regression_target:\n preds = logits.max(dim=1)[1]\n logging_output.update(ncorrect=(preds == targets).sum().item())\n return loss, sample_size, logging_output\n\n @staticmethod\n def aggregate_logging_outputs(logging_outputs):\n \"\"\"Aggregate logging outputs from data parallel training.\"\"\"\n loss_sum = sum(log.get(\"loss\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n ntokens = sum(log.get(\"ntokens\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n nsentences = sum(log.get(\"nsentences\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n sample_size = sum(log.get(\"sample_size\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n\n agg_output = {\n \"loss\": loss_sum / sample_size / math.log(2),\n \"ntokens\": ntokens,\n \"nsentences\": nsentences,\n \"sample_size\": sample_size,\n }\n\n if len(logging_outputs) > 0 and \"ncorrect\" in logging_outputs[0]:\n ncorrect = sum(log.get(\"ncorrect\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n agg_output.update(accuracy=ncorrect / nsentences)\n\n if sample_size != ntokens:\n agg_output[\"nll_loss\"] = loss_sum / ntokens / math.log(2)\n return agg_output\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/criterions/sentence_ranking.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport math\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\n\nfrom . import FairseqCriterion, register_criterion\n\n\n@register_criterion(\"sentence_ranking\")\nclass SentenceRankingCriterion(FairseqCriterion):\n def __init__(self, args, task):\n super().__init__(args, task)\n if self.args.save_predictions is not None:\n self.prediction_h = open(self.args.save_predictions, \"w\")\n else:\n self.prediction_h = None\n\n def __del__(self):\n if self.prediction_h is not None:\n self.prediction_h.close()\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument('--save-predictions', metavar='FILE',\n help='file to save predictions to')\n # fmt: on\n\n def forward(self, model, sample, reduce=True):\n \"\"\"Compute ranking loss for the given sample.\n\n Returns a tuple with three elements:\n 1) the loss\n 2) the sample size, which is used as the denominator for the gradient\n 3) logging outputs to display while training\n \"\"\"\n scores = []\n for idx in range(self.args.num_classes):\n score, _ = model(\n **sample[\"net_input{idx}\".format(idx=idx + 1)],\n classification_head_name=\"sentence_classification_head\",\n )\n scores.append(score)\n\n logits = torch.cat(scores, dim=1)\n sample_size = logits.size(0)\n\n if \"target\" in sample:\n targets = model.get_targets(sample, [logits]).view(-1)\n loss = F.nll_loss(\n F.log_softmax(logits, dim=-1, dtype=torch.float32),\n targets,\n reduction=\"sum\",\n )\n else:\n targets = None\n loss = torch.tensor(0.0, requires_grad=True)\n\n if self.prediction_h is not None:\n preds = logits.argmax(dim=1)\n for i, (id, pred) in enumerate(zip(sample[\"id\"].tolist(), preds.tolist())):\n if targets is not None:\n label = targets[i].item()\n print(\"{}\\t{}\\t{}\".format(id, pred, label), file=self.prediction_h)\n else:\n print(\"{}\\t{}\".format(id, pred), file=self.prediction_h)\n\n logging_output = {\n \"loss\": utils.item(loss.data) if reduce else loss.data,\n \"ntokens\": sample[\"ntokens\"],\n \"nsentences\": sample_size,\n \"sample_size\": sample_size,\n }\n if targets is not None:\n logging_output.update(\n ncorrect=(logits.max(dim=1)[1] == targets).sum().item()\n )\n return loss, sample_size, logging_output\n\n @staticmethod\n def aggregate_logging_outputs(logging_outputs):\n \"\"\"Aggregate logging outputs from data parallel training.\"\"\"\n loss_sum = sum(log.get(\"loss\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n ntokens = sum(log.get(\"ntokens\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n nsentences = sum(log.get(\"nsentences\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n sample_size = sum(log.get(\"sample_size\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n\n agg_output = {\n \"loss\": loss_sum / sample_size / math.log(2),\n \"ntokens\": ntokens,\n \"nsentences\": nsentences,\n \"sample_size\": sample_size,\n }\n\n if len(logging_outputs) > 0 and \"ncorrect\" in logging_outputs[0]:\n ncorrect = sum(log.get(\"ncorrect\", 0) for log in logging_outputs)\n agg_output.update(accuracy=ncorrect / nsentences)\n\n if sample_size != ntokens:\n agg_output[\"nll_loss\"] = loss_sum / ntokens / math.log(2)\n return agg_output\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/distributed_utils.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport os\nimport pickle\nimport socket\nimport subprocess\nimport warnings\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.distributed as dist\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\n\n\ndef is_master(args):\n return args.distributed_rank == 0\n\n\ndef infer_init_method(args):\n if args.distributed_init_method is not None:\n return\n\n # support torch.distributed.launch\n if all(\n key in os.environ\n for key in [\"MASTER_ADDR\", \"MASTER_PORT\", \"WORLD_SIZE\", \"RANK\"]\n ):\n args.distributed_init_method = \"env://\"\n args.distributed_world_size = int(os.environ[\"WORLD_SIZE\"])\n args.distributed_rank = int(os.environ[\"RANK\"])\n\n # we can determine the init method automatically for Slurm\n elif args.distributed_port > 0:\n node_list = os.environ.get(\"SLURM_STEP_NODELIST\")\n if node_list is None:\n node_list = os.environ.get(\"SLURM_JOB_NODELIST\")\n if node_list is not None:\n try:\n hostnames = subprocess.check_output(\n [\"scontrol\", \"show\", \"hostnames\", node_list]\n )\n args.distributed_init_method = \"tcp://{host}:{port}\".format(\n host=hostnames.split()[0].decode(\"utf-8\"),\n port=args.distributed_port,\n )\n nnodes = int(os.environ.get(\"SLURM_NNODES\"))\n ntasks_per_node = os.environ.get(\"SLURM_NTASKS_PER_NODE\")\n if ntasks_per_node is not None:\n ntasks_per_node = int(ntasks_per_node)\n else:\n ntasks = int(os.environ.get(\"SLURM_NTASKS\"))\n nnodes = int(os.environ.get(\"SLURM_NNODES\"))\n assert ntasks % nnodes == 0\n ntasks_per_node = int(ntasks / nnodes)\n if ntasks_per_node == 1:\n assert args.distributed_world_size % nnodes == 0\n gpus_per_node = args.distributed_world_size // nnodes\n node_id = int(os.environ.get(\"SLURM_NODEID\"))\n args.distributed_rank = node_id * gpus_per_node\n else:\n assert ntasks_per_node == args.distributed_world_size // nnodes\n args.distributed_no_spawn = True\n args.distributed_rank = int(os.environ.get(\"SLURM_PROCID\"))\n args.device_id = int(os.environ.get(\"SLURM_LOCALID\"))\n except subprocess.CalledProcessError as e: # scontrol failed\n raise e\n except FileNotFoundError: # Slurm is not installed\n pass\n\n\ndef distributed_init(args):\n if args.distributed_world_size == 1:\n raise ValueError(\"Cannot initialize distributed with distributed_world_size=1\")\n\n if torch.distributed.is_initialized():\n warnings.warn(\"Distributed is already initialized, cannot initialize twice!\")\n else:\n print(\n \"| distributed init (rank {}): {}\".format(\n args.distributed_rank, args.distributed_init_method\n ),\n flush=True,\n )\n dist.init_process_group(\n backend=args.distributed_backend,\n init_method=args.distributed_init_method,\n world_size=args.distributed_world_size,\n rank=args.distributed_rank,\n )\n print(\n \"| initialized host {} as rank {}\".format(\n socket.gethostname(), args.distributed_rank\n ),\n flush=True,\n )\n\n # perform a dummy all-reduce to initialize the NCCL communicator\n if torch.cuda.is_available():\n dist.all_reduce(torch.zeros(1).cuda())\n else:\n dist.all_reduce(torch.zeros(1))\n\n suppress_output(is_master(args))\n\n args.distributed_rank = torch.distributed.get_rank()\n return args.distributed_rank\n\n\ndef suppress_output(is_master):\n \"\"\"Suppress printing on the current device. Force printing with `force=True`.\"\"\"\n import builtins as __builtin__\n\n builtin_print = __builtin__.print\n\n def print(*args, **kwargs):\n force = kwargs.pop(\"force\", False)\n if is_master or force:\n builtin_print(*args, **kwargs)\n\n __builtin__.print = print\n\n\ndef get_rank():\n return dist.get_rank()\n\n\ndef get_world_size():\n return dist.get_world_size()\n\n\ndef get_default_group():\n return dist.group.WORLD\n\n\ndef all_reduce(tensor, group=None):\n if group is None:\n group = get_default_group()\n return dist.all_reduce(tensor, group=group)\n\n\ndef all_gather_list(data, group=None, max_size=16384):\n \"\"\"Gathers arbitrary data from all nodes into a list.\n\n Similar to :func:`~torch.distributed.all_gather` but for arbitrary Python\n data. Note that *data* must be picklable.\n\n Args:\n data (Any): data from the local worker to be gathered on other workers\n group (optional): group of the collective\n max_size (int, optional): maximum size of the data to be gathered\n across workers\n \"\"\"\n rank = get_rank()\n world_size = get_world_size()\n\n buffer_size = max_size * world_size\n if (\n not hasattr(all_gather_list, \"_buffer\")\n or all_gather_list._buffer.numel() < buffer_size\n ):\n all_gather_list._buffer = torch.cuda.ByteTensor(buffer_size)\n all_gather_list._cpu_buffer = torch.ByteTensor(max_size).pin_memory()\n buffer = all_gather_list._buffer\n buffer.zero_()\n cpu_buffer = all_gather_list._cpu_buffer\n\n enc = pickle.dumps(data)\n enc_size = len(enc)\n if enc_size + 2 > max_size:\n raise ValueError(\"encoded data exceeds max_size: {}\".format(enc_size + 2))\n assert max_size < 255 * 256\n\n cpu_buffer[0] = enc_size // 255 # this encoding works for max_size < 65k\n cpu_buffer[1] = enc_size % 255\n cpu_buffer[2 : enc_size + 2] = torch.ByteTensor(list(enc))\n start = rank * max_size\n size = enc_size + 2\n buffer[start : start + size].copy_(cpu_buffer[:size])\n\n all_reduce(buffer, group=group)\n\n try:\n result = []\n for i in range(world_size):\n out_buffer = buffer[i * max_size : (i + 1) * max_size]\n size = (255 * utils.item(out_buffer[0])) + utils.item(out_buffer[1])\n if size > 0:\n result.append(pickle.loads(bytes(out_buffer[2 : size + 2].tolist())))\n return result\n except pickle.UnpicklingError:\n raise Exception(\n \"Unable to unpickle data from other workers. all_gather_list requires all \"\n \"workers to enter the function together, so this error usually indicates \"\n \"that the workers have fallen out of sync somehow. Workers can fall out of \"\n \"sync if one of them runs out of memory, or if there are other conditions \"\n \"in your training script that can cause one worker to finish an epoch \"\n \"while other workers are still iterating over their portions of the data.\"\n )\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/file_utils.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\n\"\"\"\nUtilities for working with the local dataset cache.\nThis file is adapted from `AllenNLP <https://github.com/allenai/allennlp>`_.\nand `huggingface <https://github.com/huggingface>`_.\n\"\"\"\n\nimport fnmatch\nfrom functools import wraps\nfrom hashlib import sha256\nfrom io import open\nimport json\nimport logging\nimport os\nimport shutil\nimport tarfile\nimport tempfile\n\n\ntry:\n from torch.hub import _get_torch_home\n\n torch_cache_home = _get_torch_home()\nexcept ImportError:\n torch_cache_home = os.path.expanduser(\n os.getenv(\n \"TORCH_HOME\", os.path.join(os.getenv(\"XDG_CACHE_HOME\", \"~/.cache\"), \"torch\")\n )\n )\ndefault_cache_path = os.path.join(torch_cache_home, \"pytorch_fairseq\")\n\ntry:\n from urllib.parse import urlparse\nexcept ImportError:\n from urlparse import urlparse\n\ntry:\n from pathlib import Path\n\n PYTORCH_FAIRSEQ_CACHE = Path(os.getenv(\"PYTORCH_FAIRSEQ_CACHE\", default_cache_path))\nexcept (AttributeError, ImportError):\n PYTORCH_FAIRSEQ_CACHE = os.getenv(\"PYTORCH_FAIRSEQ_CACHE\", default_cache_path)\n\nCONFIG_NAME = \"config.json\"\nWEIGHTS_NAME = \"pytorch_model.bin\"\n\nlogger = logging.getLogger(__name__) # pylint: disable=invalid-name\n\n\ndef load_archive_file(archive_file):\n # redirect to the cache, if necessary\n try:\n resolved_archive_file = cached_path(archive_file, cache_dir=None)\n except EnvironmentError:\n print(\n \"Archive name '{}' was not found in archive name list. \"\n \"We assumed '{}' was a path or URL but couldn't find any file \"\n \"associated to this path or URL.\".format(archive_file, archive_file,)\n )\n return None\n\n if resolved_archive_file == archive_file:\n print(\"loading archive file {}\".format(archive_file))\n else:\n print(\n \"loading archive file {} from cache at {}\".format(\n archive_file, resolved_archive_file\n )\n )\n\n # Extract archive to temp dir and replace .tar.bz2 if necessary\n tempdir = None\n if not os.path.isdir(resolved_archive_file):\n tempdir = tempfile.mkdtemp()\n print(\n \"extracting archive file {} to temp dir {}\".format(\n resolved_archive_file, tempdir\n )\n )\n ext = os.path.splitext(archive_file)[1][1:]\n with tarfile.open(resolved_archive_file, \"r:\" + ext) as archive:\n top_dir = os.path.commonprefix(archive.getnames())\n archive.extractall(tempdir)\n os.remove(resolved_archive_file)\n shutil.move(os.path.join(tempdir, top_dir), resolved_archive_file)\n shutil.rmtree(tempdir)\n\n return resolved_archive_file\n\n\ndef url_to_filename(url, etag=None):\n \"\"\"\n Convert `url` into a hashed filename in a repeatable way.\n If `etag` is specified, append its hash to the URL's, delimited\n by a period.\n \"\"\"\n url_bytes = url.encode(\"utf-8\")\n url_hash = sha256(url_bytes)\n filename = url_hash.hexdigest()\n\n if etag:\n etag_bytes = etag.encode(\"utf-8\")\n etag_hash = sha256(etag_bytes)\n filename += \".\" + etag_hash.hexdigest()\n\n return filename\n\n\ndef filename_to_url(filename, cache_dir=None):\n \"\"\"\n Return the url and etag (which may be ``None``) stored for `filename`.\n Raise ``EnvironmentError`` if `filename` or its stored metadata do not exist.\n \"\"\"\n if cache_dir is None:\n cache_dir = PYTORCH_FAIRSEQ_CACHE\n if isinstance(cache_dir, Path):\n cache_dir = str(cache_dir)\n\n cache_path = os.path.join(cache_dir, filename)\n if not os.path.exists(cache_path):\n raise EnvironmentError(\"file {} not found\".format(cache_path))\n\n meta_path = cache_path + \".json\"\n if not os.path.exists(meta_path):\n raise EnvironmentError(\"file {} not found\".format(meta_path))\n\n with open(meta_path, encoding=\"utf-8\") as meta_file:\n metadata = json.load(meta_file)\n url = metadata[\"url\"]\n etag = metadata[\"etag\"]\n\n return url, etag\n\n\ndef cached_path(url_or_filename, cache_dir=None):\n \"\"\"\n Given something that might be a URL (or might be a local path),\n determine which. If it's a URL, download the file and cache it, and\n return the path to the cached file. If it's already a local path,\n make sure the file exists and then return the path.\n \"\"\"\n if cache_dir is None:\n cache_dir = PYTORCH_FAIRSEQ_CACHE\n if isinstance(url_or_filename, Path):\n url_or_filename = str(url_or_filename)\n if isinstance(cache_dir, Path):\n cache_dir = str(cache_dir)\n\n parsed = urlparse(url_or_filename)\n\n if parsed.scheme in (\"http\", \"https\", \"s3\"):\n # URL, so get it from the cache (downloading if necessary)\n return get_from_cache(url_or_filename, cache_dir)\n elif os.path.exists(url_or_filename):\n # File, and it exists.\n return url_or_filename\n elif parsed.scheme == \"\":\n # File, but it doesn't exist.\n raise EnvironmentError(\"file {} not found\".format(url_or_filename))\n else:\n # Something unknown\n raise ValueError(\n \"unable to parse {} as a URL or as a local path\".format(url_or_filename)\n )\n\n\ndef split_s3_path(url):\n \"\"\"Split a full s3 path into the bucket name and path.\"\"\"\n parsed = urlparse(url)\n if not parsed.netloc or not parsed.path:\n raise ValueError(\"bad s3 path {}\".format(url))\n bucket_name = parsed.netloc\n s3_path = parsed.path\n # Remove '/' at beginning of path.\n if s3_path.startswith(\"/\"):\n s3_path = s3_path[1:]\n return bucket_name, s3_path\n\n\ndef s3_request(func):\n \"\"\"\n Wrapper function for s3 requests in order to create more helpful error\n messages.\n \"\"\"\n\n @wraps(func)\n def wrapper(url, *args, **kwargs):\n from botocore.exceptions import ClientError\n\n try:\n return func(url, *args, **kwargs)\n except ClientError as exc:\n if int(exc.response[\"Error\"][\"Code\"]) == 404:\n raise EnvironmentError(\"file {} not found\".format(url))\n else:\n raise\n\n return wrapper\n\n\n@s3_request\ndef s3_etag(url):\n \"\"\"Check ETag on S3 object.\"\"\"\n import boto3\n\n s3_resource = boto3.resource(\"s3\")\n bucket_name, s3_path = split_s3_path(url)\n s3_object = s3_resource.Object(bucket_name, s3_path)\n return s3_object.e_tag\n\n\n@s3_request\ndef s3_get(url, temp_file):\n \"\"\"Pull a file directly from S3.\"\"\"\n import boto3\n\n s3_resource = boto3.resource(\"s3\")\n bucket_name, s3_path = split_s3_path(url)\n s3_resource.Bucket(bucket_name).download_fileobj(s3_path, temp_file)\n\n\ndef http_get(url, temp_file):\n import requests\n from tqdm import tqdm\n\n req = requests.get(url, stream=True)\n content_length = req.headers.get(\"Content-Length\")\n total = int(content_length) if content_length is not None else None\n progress = tqdm(unit=\"B\", total=total)\n for chunk in req.iter_content(chunk_size=1024):\n if chunk: # filter out keep-alive new chunks\n progress.update(len(chunk))\n temp_file.write(chunk)\n progress.close()\n\n\ndef get_from_cache(url, cache_dir=None):\n \"\"\"\n Given a URL, look for the corresponding dataset in the local cache.\n If it's not there, download it. Then return the path to the cached file.\n \"\"\"\n if cache_dir is None:\n cache_dir = PYTORCH_FAIRSEQ_CACHE\n if isinstance(cache_dir, Path):\n cache_dir = str(cache_dir)\n\n if not os.path.exists(cache_dir):\n os.makedirs(cache_dir)\n\n # Get eTag to add to filename, if it exists.\n if url.startswith(\"s3://\"):\n etag = s3_etag(url)\n else:\n try:\n import requests\n\n response = requests.head(url, allow_redirects=True)\n if response.status_code != 200:\n etag = None\n else:\n etag = response.headers.get(\"ETag\")\n except EnvironmentError:\n etag = None\n\n filename = url_to_filename(url, etag)\n\n # get cache path to put the file\n cache_path = os.path.join(cache_dir, filename)\n\n # If we don't have a connection (etag is None) and can't identify the file\n # try to get the last downloaded one\n if not os.path.exists(cache_path) and etag is None:\n matching_files = fnmatch.filter(os.listdir(cache_dir), filename + \".*\")\n matching_files = list(filter(lambda s: not s.endswith(\".json\"), matching_files))\n if matching_files:\n cache_path = os.path.join(cache_dir, matching_files[-1])\n\n if not os.path.exists(cache_path):\n # Download to temporary file, then copy to cache dir once finished.\n # Otherwise you get corrupt cache entries if the download gets interrupted.\n with tempfile.NamedTemporaryFile() as temp_file:\n logger.info(\"%s not found in cache, downloading to %s\", url, temp_file.name)\n\n # GET file object\n if url.startswith(\"s3://\"):\n s3_get(url, temp_file)\n else:\n http_get(url, temp_file)\n\n # we are copying the file before closing it, so flush to avoid truncation\n temp_file.flush()\n # shutil.copyfileobj() starts at the current position, so go to the start\n temp_file.seek(0)\n\n logger.info(\"copying %s to cache at %s\", temp_file.name, cache_path)\n with open(cache_path, \"wb\") as cache_file:\n shutil.copyfileobj(temp_file, cache_file)\n\n logger.info(\"creating metadata file for %s\", cache_path)\n meta = {\"url\": url, \"etag\": etag}\n meta_path = cache_path + \".json\"\n with open(meta_path, \"w\") as meta_file:\n output_string = json.dumps(meta)\n meta_file.write(output_string)\n\n logger.info(\"removing temp file %s\", temp_file.name)\n\n return cache_path\n\n\ndef read_set_from_file(filename):\n \"\"\"\n Extract a de-duped collection (set) of text from a file.\n Expected file format is one item per line.\n \"\"\"\n collection = set()\n with open(filename, \"r\", encoding=\"utf-8\") as file_:\n for line in file_:\n collection.add(line.rstrip())\n return collection\n\n\ndef get_file_extension(path, dot=True, lower=True):\n ext = os.path.splitext(path)[1]\n ext = ext if dot else ext[1:]\n return ext.lower() if lower else ext\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/hub_utils.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3 -u\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport argparse\nimport copy\nimport os\n\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\nfrom fairseq.data import encoders\n\n\ndef from_pretrained(\n model_name_or_path,\n checkpoint_file=\"model.pt\",\n data_name_or_path=\".\",\n archive_map=None,\n **kwargs\n):\n from fairseq import checkpoint_utils, file_utils\n\n if archive_map is not None:\n if model_name_or_path in archive_map:\n model_name_or_path = archive_map[model_name_or_path]\n if data_name_or_path is not None and data_name_or_path in archive_map:\n data_name_or_path = archive_map[data_name_or_path]\n\n # allow archive_map to set default arg_overrides (e.g., tokenizer, bpe)\n # for each model\n if isinstance(model_name_or_path, dict):\n for k, v in model_name_or_path.items():\n if k == \"checkpoint_file\":\n checkpoint_file = v\n elif (\n k != \"path\"\n # only set kwargs that don't already have overrides\n and k not in kwargs\n ):\n kwargs[k] = v\n model_name_or_path = model_name_or_path[\"path\"]\n\n model_path = model_name_or_path\n # convenience hack for loading data and BPE codes from model archive\n if data_name_or_path.startswith(\".\"):\n kwargs[\"data\"] = os.path.abspath(os.path.join(model_path, data_name_or_path))\n else:\n kwargs[\"data\"] = file_utils.load_archive_file(data_name_or_path)\n for file, arg in {\n \"code\": \"bpe_codes\",\n \"bpecodes\": \"bpe_codes\",\n \"sentencepiece.bpe.model\": \"sentencepiece_vocab\",\n }.items():\n path = os.path.join(model_path, file)\n if os.path.exists(path):\n kwargs[arg] = path\n\n if \"user_dir\" in kwargs:\n utils.import_user_module(argparse.Namespace(user_dir=kwargs[\"user_dir\"]))\n\n models, args, task = checkpoint_utils.load_model_ensemble_and_task(\n [os.path.join(model_path, cpt) for cpt in checkpoint_file.split(os.pathsep)],\n arg_overrides=kwargs,\n )\n\n return {\n \"args\": args,\n \"task\": task,\n \"models\": models,\n }\n\n\nclass GeneratorHubInterface(nn.Module):\n \"\"\"\n PyTorch Hub interface for generating sequences from a pre-trained\n translation or language model.\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, args, task, models):\n super().__init__()\n self.args = args\n self.task = task\n self.models = nn.ModuleList(models)\n self.src_dict = task.source_dictionary\n self.tgt_dict = task.target_dictionary\n\n # optimize model for generation\n for model in self.models:\n model.make_generation_fast_(\n beamable_mm_beam_size=(\n None\n if getattr(args, \"no_beamable_mm\", False)\n else getattr(args, \"beam\", 5)\n ),\n need_attn=getattr(args, \"print_alignment\", False),\n )\n\n # Load alignment dictionary for unknown word replacement\n # (None if no unknown word replacement, empty if no path to align dictionary)\n self.align_dict = utils.load_align_dict(getattr(args, \"replace_unk\", None))\n\n self.tokenizer = encoders.build_tokenizer(args)\n self.bpe = encoders.build_bpe(args)\n\n # this is useful for determining the device\n self.register_buffer(\"_float_tensor\", torch.tensor([0], dtype=torch.float))\n\n @property\n def device(self):\n return self._float_tensor.device\n\n def translate(\n self, sentence: str, beam: int = 5, verbose: bool = False, **kwargs\n ) -> str:\n return self.sample(sentence, beam, verbose, **kwargs)\n\n def sample(\n self, sentence: str, beam: int = 1, verbose: bool = False, **kwargs\n ) -> str:\n input = self.encode(sentence)\n hypo = self.generate(input, beam, verbose, **kwargs)[0][\"tokens\"]\n return self.decode(hypo)\n\n def generate(\n self, tokens: torch.LongTensor, beam: int = 5, verbose: bool = False, **kwargs\n ) -> torch.LongTensor:\n sample = self._build_sample(tokens)\n\n # build generator using current args as well as any kwargs\n gen_args = copy.copy(self.args)\n gen_args.beam = beam\n for k, v in kwargs.items():\n setattr(gen_args, k, v)\n generator = self.task.build_generator(gen_args)\n\n translations = self.task.inference_step(generator, self.models, sample)\n\n if verbose:\n src_str_with_unk = self.string(tokens)\n print(\"S\\t{}\".format(src_str_with_unk))\n\n def getarg(name, default):\n return getattr(gen_args, name, getattr(self.args, name, default))\n\n # Process top predictions\n hypos = translations[0]\n if verbose:\n for hypo in hypos:\n hypo_str = self.decode(hypo[\"tokens\"])\n print(\"H\\t{}\\t{}\".format(hypo[\"score\"], hypo_str))\n print(\n \"P\\t{}\".format(\n \" \".join(\n map(\n lambda x: \"{:.4f}\".format(x),\n hypo[\"positional_scores\"].tolist(),\n )\n )\n )\n )\n if hypo[\"alignment\"] is not None and getarg(\"print_alignment\", False):\n print(\n \"A\\t{}\".format(\n \" \".join(\n map(\n lambda x: str(utils.item(x)),\n hypo[\"alignment\"].int().cpu(),\n )\n )\n )\n )\n\n return hypos\n\n def encode(self, sentence: str) -> torch.LongTensor:\n sentence = self.tokenize(sentence)\n sentence = self.apply_bpe(sentence)\n return self.binarize(sentence)\n\n def decode(self, tokens: torch.LongTensor) -> str:\n sentence = self.string(tokens)\n sentence = self.remove_bpe(sentence)\n return self.detokenize(sentence)\n\n def tokenize(self, sentence: str) -> str:\n if self.tokenizer is not None:\n sentence = self.tokenizer.encode(sentence)\n return sentence\n\n def detokenize(self, sentence: str) -> str:\n if self.tokenizer is not None:\n sentence = self.tokenizer.decode(sentence)\n return sentence\n\n def apply_bpe(self, sentence: str) -> str:\n if self.bpe is not None:\n sentence = self.bpe.encode(sentence)\n return sentence\n\n def remove_bpe(self, sentence: str) -> str:\n if self.bpe is not None:\n sentence = self.bpe.decode(sentence)\n return sentence\n\n def binarize(self, sentence: str) -> torch.LongTensor:\n return self.src_dict.encode_line(sentence, add_if_not_exist=False).long()\n\n def string(self, tokens: torch.LongTensor) -> str:\n return self.tgt_dict.string(tokens)\n\n def _build_sample(self, src_tokens: torch.LongTensor):\n assert torch.is_tensor(src_tokens)\n dataset = self.task.build_dataset_for_inference(\n [src_tokens], [src_tokens.numel()]\n )\n sample = dataset.collater([dataset[0]])\n sample = utils.apply_to_sample(lambda tensor: tensor.to(self.device), sample)\n return sample\n\n\nclass BPEHubInterface(object):\n \"\"\"PyTorch Hub interface for Byte-Pair Encoding (BPE).\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, bpe, **kwargs):\n super().__init__()\n args = argparse.Namespace(bpe=bpe, **kwargs)\n self.bpe = encoders.build_bpe(args)\n assert self.bpe is not None\n\n def encode(self, sentence: str) -> str:\n return self.bpe.encode(sentence)\n\n def decode(self, sentence: str) -> str:\n return self.bpe.decode(sentence)\n\n\nclass TokenizerHubInterface(object):\n \"\"\"PyTorch Hub interface for tokenization.\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, tokenizer, **kwargs):\n super().__init__()\n args = argparse.Namespace(tokenizer=tokenizer, **kwargs)\n self.tokenizer = encoders.build_tokenizer(args)\n assert self.tokenizer is not None\n\n def encode(self, sentence: str) -> str:\n return self.tokenizer.encode(sentence)\n\n def decode(self, sentence: str) -> str:\n return self.tokenizer.decode(sentence)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/iterative_refinement_generator.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom collections import namedtuple\n\nimport torch\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\n\n\nDecoderOut = namedtuple(\n \"IterativeRefinementDecoderOut\",\n [\"output_tokens\", \"output_scores\", \"attn\", \"step\", \"max_step\", \"history\"],\n)\n\n\nclass IterativeRefinementGenerator(object):\n def __init__(\n self,\n tgt_dict,\n models=None,\n eos_penalty=0.0,\n max_iter=10,\n max_ratio=2,\n decoding_format=None,\n retain_dropout=False,\n adaptive=True,\n retain_history=False,\n ):\n \"\"\"\n Generates translations based on iterative refinement.\n\n Args:\n tgt_dict: target dictionary\n eos_penalty: if > 0.0, it penalized early-stopping in decoding\n max_iter: maximum number of refinement iterations\n max_ratio: generate sequences of maximum length ax, where x is the source length\n decoding_format: decoding mode in {'unigram', 'ensemble', 'vote', 'dp', 'bs'}\n retain_dropout: retaining dropout in the inference\n adaptive: decoding with early stop\n \"\"\"\n self.bos = tgt_dict.bos()\n self.pad = tgt_dict.pad()\n self.unk = tgt_dict.unk()\n self.eos = tgt_dict.eos()\n self.vocab_size = len(tgt_dict)\n self.eos_penalty = eos_penalty\n self.max_iter = max_iter\n self.max_ratio = max_ratio\n self.decoding_format = decoding_format\n self.retain_dropout = retain_dropout\n self.retain_history = retain_history\n self.adaptive = adaptive\n self.models = models\n\n def generate_batched_itr(\n self,\n data_itr,\n maxlen_a=None,\n maxlen_b=None,\n cuda=False,\n timer=None,\n prefix_size=0,\n ):\n \"\"\"Iterate over a batched dataset and yield individual translations.\n\n Args:\n maxlen_a/b: generate sequences of maximum length ax + b,\n where x is the source sentence length.\n cuda: use GPU for generation\n timer: StopwatchMeter for timing generations.\n \"\"\"\n\n for sample in data_itr:\n if \"net_input\" not in sample:\n continue\n if timer is not None:\n timer.start()\n with torch.no_grad():\n hypos = self.generate(\n self.models,\n sample,\n prefix_tokens=sample[\"target\"][:, :prefix_size]\n if prefix_size > 0\n else None,\n )\n if timer is not None:\n timer.stop(sample[\"ntokens\"])\n for i, id in enumerate(sample[\"id\"]):\n # remove padding\n src = utils.strip_pad(sample[\"net_input\"][\"src_tokens\"][i, :], self.pad)\n ref = utils.strip_pad(sample[\"target\"][i, :], self.pad)\n yield id, src, ref, hypos[i]\n\n @torch.no_grad()\n def generate(self, models, sample, prefix_tokens=None):\n from fairseq.models.levenshtein_transformer import LevenshteinTransformerModel\n from fairseq.models.nonautoregressive_ensembles import EnsembleLevT\n\n if len(models) == 1:\n # Keep this for other NAT models for which we have yet to implement ensemble wrappers. Later delete this.\n model = models[0]\n elif isinstance(models[0], LevenshteinTransformerModel):\n model = EnsembleLevT(models)\n else:\n raise NotImplementedError\n if not self.retain_dropout:\n model.eval()\n\n # TODO: better encoder inputs?\n src_tokens = sample[\"net_input\"][\"src_tokens\"]\n src_lengths = sample[\"net_input\"][\"src_lengths\"]\n bsz, src_len = src_tokens.size()\n sent_idxs = torch.arange(bsz)\n\n # encoding\n encoder_out = model.forward_encoder([src_tokens, src_lengths])\n\n # initialize buffers (very model specific, with length prediction or not)\n prev_decoder_out = model.initialize_output_tokens(encoder_out, src_tokens)\n prev_output_tokens = prev_decoder_out.output_tokens.clone()\n\n if self.retain_history:\n prev_decoder_out = prev_decoder_out._replace(history=[prev_output_tokens])\n\n finalized = [[] for _ in range(bsz)]\n\n def is_a_loop(x, y, s, a):\n b, l_x, l_y = x.size(0), x.size(1), y.size(1)\n if l_x > l_y:\n y = torch.cat([y, x.new_zeros(b, l_x - l_y).fill_(self.pad)], 1)\n s = torch.cat([s, s.new_zeros(b, l_x - l_y)], 1)\n if a is not None:\n a = torch.cat([a, a.new_zeros(b, l_x - l_y, a.size(2))], 1)\n elif l_x < l_y:\n x = torch.cat([x, y.new_zeros(b, l_y - l_x).fill_(self.pad)], 1)\n return (x == y).all(1), y, s, a\n\n def finalized_hypos(step, prev_out_token, prev_out_score, prev_out_attn):\n cutoff = prev_out_token.ne(self.pad)\n tokens = prev_out_token[cutoff]\n if prev_out_score is None:\n scores, score = None, None\n else:\n scores = prev_out_score[cutoff]\n score = scores.mean()\n\n if prev_out_attn is None:\n hypo_attn, alignment = None, None\n else:\n hypo_attn = prev_out_attn[cutoff]\n alignment = hypo_attn.max(dim=1)[1]\n return {\n \"steps\": step,\n \"tokens\": tokens,\n \"positional_scores\": scores,\n \"score\": score,\n \"hypo_attn\": hypo_attn,\n \"alignment\": alignment,\n }\n\n for step in range(self.max_iter + 1):\n\n decoder_options = {\n \"eos_penalty\": self.eos_penalty,\n \"max_ratio\": self.max_ratio,\n \"decoding_format\": self.decoding_format,\n }\n prev_decoder_out = prev_decoder_out._replace(\n step=step, max_step=self.max_iter + 1,\n )\n\n decoder_out = model.forward_decoder(\n prev_decoder_out, encoder_out, **decoder_options\n )\n\n if self.adaptive:\n # terminate if there is a loop\n terminated, out_tokens, out_scores, out_attn = is_a_loop(\n prev_output_tokens,\n decoder_out.output_tokens,\n decoder_out.output_scores,\n decoder_out.attn,\n )\n decoder_out = decoder_out._replace(\n output_tokens=out_tokens, output_scores=out_scores, attn=out_attn,\n )\n\n else:\n terminated = decoder_out.output_tokens.new_zeros(\n decoder_out.output_tokens.size(0)\n ).bool()\n\n if step == self.max_iter: # reach last iteration, terminate\n terminated.fill_(1)\n\n # collect finalized sentences\n finalized_idxs = sent_idxs[terminated]\n finalized_tokens = decoder_out.output_tokens[terminated]\n finalized_scores = decoder_out.output_scores[terminated]\n finalized_attn = (\n None if decoder_out.attn is None else decoder_out.attn[terminated]\n )\n\n if self.retain_history:\n finalized_history_tokens = [h[terminated] for h in decoder_out.history]\n\n for i in range(finalized_idxs.size(0)):\n finalized[finalized_idxs[i]] = [\n finalized_hypos(\n step,\n finalized_tokens[i],\n finalized_scores[i],\n None if finalized_attn is None else finalized_attn[i],\n )\n ]\n\n if self.retain_history:\n finalized[finalized_idxs[i]][0][\"history\"] = []\n for j in range(len(finalized_history_tokens)):\n finalized[finalized_idxs[i]][0][\"history\"].append(\n finalized_hypos(\n step, finalized_history_tokens[j][i], None, None\n )\n )\n\n # check if all terminated\n if terminated.sum() == terminated.size(0):\n break\n\n # for next step\n not_terminated = ~terminated\n prev_decoder_out = decoder_out._replace(\n output_tokens=decoder_out.output_tokens[not_terminated],\n output_scores=decoder_out.output_scores[not_terminated],\n attn=decoder_out.attn[not_terminated]\n if decoder_out.attn is not None\n else None,\n history=[h[not_terminated] for h in decoder_out.history]\n if decoder_out.history is not None\n else None,\n )\n encoder_out = model.encoder.reorder_encoder_out(\n encoder_out, not_terminated.nonzero().squeeze()\n )\n sent_idxs = sent_idxs[not_terminated]\n\n prev_output_tokens = prev_decoder_out.output_tokens.clone()\n\n return finalized\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/legacy_distributed_data_parallel.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\n\"\"\"\nA modified version of the legacy DistributedDataParallel module that uses c10d\ncommunication primitives. This version is simpler than the latest PyTorch\nversion and is useful for debugging. Notably it does not overlap gradient\ncommunication with the backward pass, which makes it slower but more robust\nthan the PyTorch version.\n\nThis version also supports the *no_sync* context manager, which allows faster\ntraining with `--update-freq`.\n\"\"\"\n\nfrom contextlib import contextmanager\nimport copy\n\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\nfrom torch.autograd import Variable\n\nfrom . import distributed_utils\n\n\nclass LegacyDistributedDataParallel(nn.Module):\n \"\"\"Implements distributed data parallelism at the module level.\n\n A simplified version of :class:`torch.nn.parallel.DistributedDataParallel`.\n This version uses a c10d process group for communication and does not\n broadcast buffers.\n\n Args:\n module (~torch.nn.Module): module to be parallelized\n world_size (int): number of parallel workers\n process_group (optional): the c10d process group to be used for\n distributed data all-reduction. If None, the default process group\n will be used.\n buffer_size (int, optional): number of elements to buffer before\n performing all-reduce (default: 256M).\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, module, world_size, process_group=None, buffer_size=2 ** 28):\n super().__init__()\n\n self.module = module\n self.world_size = world_size\n self.process_group = process_group\n\n # Never use a bigger buffer than the number of model params\n self.buffer_size = min(buffer_size, sum(p.numel() for p in module.parameters()))\n self.buffer = None\n\n # Flag used by the NCCL backend to make sure we only reduce gradients\n # one time in the execution engine\n self.need_reduction = False\n\n # We can also forcibly accumulate grads locally and only do the\n # all-reduce at some later time\n self.accumulate_grads = False\n\n # For NCCL backend, since every single NCCL call is asynchoronous, we\n # therefore directly enqueue all the NCCL reduction calls to the\n # default CUDA stream without spawning up other reduction threads.\n # This achieves the best performance.\n self._register_grad_hook()\n\n def __getstate__(self):\n attrs = copy.copy(self.__dict__)\n return attrs\n\n def __setstate__(self, state):\n super().__setstate__(state)\n self._register_grad_hook()\n\n @contextmanager\n def no_sync(self):\n \"\"\"A context manager to disable gradient synchronization.\"\"\"\n old_accumulate_grads = self.accumulate_grads\n self.accumulate_grads = True\n yield\n self.accumulate_grads = old_accumulate_grads\n\n def forward(self, *inputs, **kwargs):\n return self.module(*inputs, **kwargs)\n\n def _register_grad_hook(self):\n \"\"\"\n This function registers the callback all-reduction function for the\n NCCL backend. All gradients will be all reduced in one single step.\n The NCCL reduction will directly be enqueued into the default CUDA\n stream. Therefore, no synchronization is needed.\n \"\"\"\n\n def all_reduce(params):\n buffer = self.buffer\n nonzero_buffer = False\n if len(params) > 1:\n offset = 0\n for p in params:\n sz = p.numel()\n if p.grad is not None:\n buffer[offset : offset + sz].copy_(p.grad.data.view(-1))\n nonzero_buffer = True\n else:\n buffer[offset : offset + sz].zero_()\n offset += sz\n else:\n # we only have a single grad to all-reduce\n p = params[0]\n if p.grad is not None:\n buffer = p.grad.data\n nonzero_buffer = True\n elif p.numel() <= self.buffer.numel():\n buffer = buffer[: p.numel()]\n buffer.zero_()\n else:\n buffer = torch.zeros_like(p)\n\n if nonzero_buffer:\n buffer.div_(self.world_size)\n\n distributed_utils.all_reduce(buffer, self.process_group)\n\n # copy all-reduced grads back into their original place\n offset = 0\n for p in params:\n sz = p.numel()\n if p.grad is not None:\n p.grad.data.copy_(buffer[offset : offset + sz].view_as(p))\n else:\n p.grad = buffer[offset : offset + sz].view_as(p).clone()\n offset += sz\n\n def reduction_fn():\n # This function only needs to be called once\n if not self.need_reduction or self.accumulate_grads:\n return\n self.need_reduction = False\n\n if self.buffer is None:\n self.buffer = next(self.module.parameters()).new(self.buffer_size)\n\n # All-reduce the gradients in buckets\n offset = 0\n buffered_params = []\n for param in self.module.parameters():\n if not param.requires_grad:\n continue\n if param.grad is None:\n param.grad = torch.zeros_like(param)\n if param.grad.requires_grad:\n raise RuntimeError(\n \"DistributedDataParallel only works \"\n \"with gradients that don't require \"\n \"grad\"\n )\n sz = param.numel()\n if sz > self.buffer.numel():\n # all-reduce big params directly\n all_reduce([param])\n else:\n if offset + sz > self.buffer.numel():\n all_reduce(buffered_params)\n offset = 0\n buffered_params.clear()\n buffered_params.append(param)\n offset += sz\n\n if len(buffered_params) > 0:\n all_reduce(buffered_params)\n\n # Now register the reduction hook on the parameters\n for p in self.module.parameters():\n\n def allreduce_hook(*unused):\n self.need_reduction = True\n Variable._execution_engine.queue_callback(reduction_fn)\n\n if p.requires_grad:\n p.register_hook(allreduce_hook)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/meters.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport time\n\n\nclass AverageMeter(object):\n \"\"\"Computes and stores the average and current value\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self):\n self.reset()\n\n def reset(self):\n self.val = 0\n self.avg = 0\n self.sum = 0\n self.count = 0\n\n def update(self, val, n=1):\n self.val = val\n self.sum += val * n\n self.count += n\n self.avg = self.sum / self.count\n\n\nclass TimeMeter(object):\n \"\"\"Computes the average occurrence of some event per second\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, init=0):\n self.reset(init)\n\n def reset(self, init=0):\n self.init = init\n self.start = time.time()\n self.n = 0\n\n def update(self, val=1):\n self.n += val\n\n @property\n def avg(self):\n return self.n / self.elapsed_time\n\n @property\n def elapsed_time(self):\n return self.init + (time.time() - self.start)\n\n\nclass StopwatchMeter(object):\n \"\"\"Computes the sum/avg duration of some event in seconds\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self):\n self.reset()\n\n def start(self):\n self.start_time = time.time()\n\n def stop(self, n=1):\n if self.start_time is not None:\n delta = time.time() - self.start_time\n self.sum += delta\n self.n += n\n self.start_time = None\n\n def reset(self):\n self.sum = 0\n self.n = 0\n self.start_time = None\n\n @property\n def avg(self):\n return self.sum / self.n\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/__init__.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport argparse\nimport importlib\nimport os\n\nfrom .fairseq_decoder import FairseqDecoder\nfrom .fairseq_encoder import FairseqEncoder\nfrom .fairseq_incremental_decoder import FairseqIncrementalDecoder\nfrom .fairseq_model import (\n BaseFairseqModel,\n FairseqEncoderModel,\n FairseqEncoderDecoderModel,\n FairseqLanguageModel,\n FairseqModel,\n FairseqMultiModel,\n)\n\nfrom .composite_encoder import CompositeEncoder\nfrom .distributed_fairseq_model import DistributedFairseqModel\n\n\nMODEL_REGISTRY = {}\nARCH_MODEL_REGISTRY = {}\nARCH_MODEL_INV_REGISTRY = {}\nARCH_CONFIG_REGISTRY = {}\n\n\n__all__ = [\n \"BaseFairseqModel\",\n \"CompositeEncoder\",\n \"DistributedFairseqModel\",\n \"FairseqDecoder\",\n \"FairseqEncoder\",\n \"FairseqEncoderDecoderModel\",\n \"FairseqEncoderModel\",\n \"FairseqIncrementalDecoder\",\n \"FairseqLanguageModel\",\n \"FairseqModel\",\n \"FairseqMultiModel\",\n]\n\n\ndef build_model(args, task):\n return ARCH_MODEL_REGISTRY[args.arch].build_model(args, task)\n\n\ndef register_model(name):\n \"\"\"\n New model types can be added to fairseq with the :func:`register_model`\n function decorator.\n\n For example::\n\n @register_model('lstm')\n class LSTM(FairseqEncoderDecoderModel):\n (...)\n\n .. note:: All models must implement the :class:`BaseFairseqModel` interface.\n Typically you will extend :class:`FairseqEncoderDecoderModel` for\n sequence-to-sequence tasks or :class:`FairseqLanguageModel` for\n language modeling tasks.\n\n Args:\n name (str): the name of the model\n \"\"\"\n\n def register_model_cls(cls):\n if name in MODEL_REGISTRY:\n raise ValueError(\"Cannot register duplicate model ({})\".format(name))\n if not issubclass(cls, BaseFairseqModel):\n raise ValueError(\n \"Model ({}: {}) must extend BaseFairseqModel\".format(name, cls.__name__)\n )\n MODEL_REGISTRY[name] = cls\n return cls\n\n return register_model_cls\n\n\ndef register_model_architecture(model_name, arch_name):\n \"\"\"\n New model architectures can be added to fairseq with the\n :func:`register_model_architecture` function decorator. After registration,\n model architectures can be selected with the ``--arch`` command-line\n argument.\n\n For example::\n\n @register_model_architecture('lstm', 'lstm_luong_wmt_en_de')\n def lstm_luong_wmt_en_de(args):\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, 'encoder_embed_dim', 1000)\n (...)\n\n The decorated function should take a single argument *args*, which is a\n :class:`argparse.Namespace` of arguments parsed from the command-line. The\n decorated function should modify these arguments in-place to match the\n desired architecture.\n\n Args:\n model_name (str): the name of the Model (Model must already be\n registered)\n arch_name (str): the name of the model architecture (``--arch``)\n \"\"\"\n\n def register_model_arch_fn(fn):\n if model_name not in MODEL_REGISTRY:\n raise ValueError(\n \"Cannot register model architecture for unknown model type ({})\".format(\n model_name\n )\n )\n if arch_name in ARCH_MODEL_REGISTRY:\n raise ValueError(\n \"Cannot register duplicate model architecture ({})\".format(arch_name)\n )\n if not callable(fn):\n raise ValueError(\n \"Model architecture must be callable ({})\".format(arch_name)\n )\n ARCH_MODEL_REGISTRY[arch_name] = MODEL_REGISTRY[model_name]\n ARCH_MODEL_INV_REGISTRY.setdefault(model_name, []).append(arch_name)\n ARCH_CONFIG_REGISTRY[arch_name] = fn\n return fn\n\n return register_model_arch_fn\n\n\n# automatically import any Python files in the models/ directory\nmodels_dir = os.path.dirname(__file__)\nfor file in os.listdir(models_dir):\n path = os.path.join(models_dir, file)\n if (\n not file.startswith(\"_\")\n and not file.startswith(\".\")\n and (file.endswith(\".py\") or os.path.isdir(path))\n ):\n model_name = file[: file.find(\".py\")] if file.endswith(\".py\") else file\n module = importlib.import_module(\"fairseq.models.\" + model_name)\n\n # extra `model_parser` for sphinx\n if model_name in MODEL_REGISTRY:\n parser = argparse.ArgumentParser(add_help=False)\n group_archs = parser.add_argument_group(\"Named architectures\")\n group_archs.add_argument(\n \"--arch\", choices=ARCH_MODEL_INV_REGISTRY[model_name]\n )\n group_args = parser.add_argument_group(\"Additional command-line arguments\")\n MODEL_REGISTRY[model_name].add_args(group_args)\n globals()[model_name + \"_parser\"] = parser\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/bart/__init__.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom .hub_interface import * # noqa\nfrom .model import * # noqa\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/bart/hub_interface.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport os\nimport copy\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn as nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom typing import List\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\nfrom fairseq.data import encoders\n\n# some ugly stuff\nPATH_TO_GPT2BPE = os.environ.get(\"PATH_TO_GPT2BPE\", \"/kaggle/input/gpt2bpe\")\n\n\nclass BARTHubInterface(nn.Module):\n \"\"\"A simple PyTorch Hub interface to BART.\n\n Usage: https://github.com/pytorch/fairseq/tree/master/examples/BART\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, args, task, model):\n super().__init__()\n args.gpt2_encoder_json = PATH_TO_GPT2BPE + \"/encoder.json\"\n args.gpt2_vocab_bpe = PATH_TO_GPT2BPE + \"/vocab.bpe\"\n self.args = args\n self.task = task\n self.model = model\n\n self.bpe = encoders.build_bpe(args)\n self.max_positions = 1024\n\n # this is useful for determining the device\n self.register_buffer(\"_float_tensor\", torch.tensor([0], dtype=torch.float))\n\n @property\n def device(self):\n return self._float_tensor.device\n\n def encode(\n self, sentence: str, *addl_sentences, no_separator=True\n ) -> torch.LongTensor:\n \"\"\"\n BPE-encode a sentence (or multiple sentences).\n\n Every sequence begins with a beginning-of-sentence (`<s>`) symbol.\n Every sentence ends with an end-of-sentence (`</s>`).\n\n Example (single sentence): `<s> a b c </s>`\n Example (sentence pair): `<s> d e f </s> 1 2 3 </s>`\n\n The BPE encoding follows GPT-2. One subtle detail is that the GPT-2 BPE\n requires leading spaces. For example::\n\n >>> bart.encode('Hello world').tolist()\n [0, 31414, 232, 2]\n >>> bart.encode(' world').tolist()\n [0, 232, 2]\n >>> bart.encode('world').tolist()\n [0, 8331, 2]\n \"\"\"\n tokens = self.bpe.encode(sentence)\n if len(tokens.split(\" \")) > self.max_positions - 2:\n tokens = \" \".join(tokens.split(\" \")[: self.max_positions - 2])\n bpe_sentence = \"<s> \" + tokens + \" </s>\"\n for s in addl_sentences:\n bpe_sentence += \" </s>\" if not no_separator else \"\"\n bpe_sentence += \" \" + self.bpe.encode(s) + \" </s>\"\n tokens = self.task.source_dictionary.encode_line(bpe_sentence, append_eos=False)\n return tokens.long()\n\n def decode(self, tokens: torch.LongTensor):\n assert tokens.dim() == 1\n tokens = tokens.cpu().numpy()\n if tokens[0] == self.task.source_dictionary.bos():\n tokens = tokens[1:] # remove <s>\n eos_mask = tokens == self.task.source_dictionary.eos()\n doc_mask = eos_mask[1:] & eos_mask[:-1]\n sentences = np.split(tokens, doc_mask.nonzero()[0] + 1)\n sentences = [\n self.bpe.decode(self.task.source_dictionary.string(s)) for s in sentences\n ]\n if len(sentences) == 1:\n return sentences[0]\n return sentences\n\n def _build_sample(self, src_tokens: List[torch.LongTensor]):\n # assert torch.is_tensor(src_tokens)\n dataset = self.task.build_dataset_for_inference(\n src_tokens, [x.numel() for x in src_tokens],\n )\n sample = dataset.collater(dataset)\n sample = utils.apply_to_sample(lambda tensor: tensor.to(self.device), sample)\n return sample\n\n def sample(\n self, sentences: List[str], beam: int = 1, verbose: bool = False, **kwargs\n ) -> str:\n input = [self.encode(sentence) for sentence in sentences]\n hypos = self.generate(input, beam, verbose, **kwargs)\n return [self.decode(x[\"tokens\"]) for x in hypos]\n\n def generate(\n self,\n tokens: List[torch.LongTensor],\n beam: int = 5,\n verbose: bool = False,\n **kwargs\n ) -> torch.LongTensor:\n sample = self._build_sample(tokens)\n\n # build generator using current args as well as any kwargs\n gen_args = copy.copy(self.args)\n gen_args.beam = beam\n for k, v in kwargs.items():\n setattr(gen_args, k, v)\n generator = self.task.build_generator(gen_args)\n translations = self.task.inference_step(\n generator,\n [self.model],\n sample,\n prefix_tokens=sample[\"net_input\"][\"src_tokens\"]\n .new_zeros((len(tokens), 1))\n .fill_(self.task.source_dictionary.bos()),\n )\n\n if verbose:\n src_str_with_unk = self.string(tokens)\n print(\"S\\t{}\".format(src_str_with_unk))\n\n def getarg(name, default):\n return getattr(gen_args, name, getattr(self.args, name, default))\n\n # Process top predictions\n hypos = [x[0] for x in translations]\n hypos = [v for _, v in sorted(zip(sample[\"id\"].tolist(), hypos))]\n return hypos\n\n def extract_features(\n self, tokens: torch.LongTensor, return_all_hiddens: bool = False\n ) -> torch.Tensor:\n if tokens.dim() == 1:\n tokens = tokens.unsqueeze(0)\n if tokens.size(-1) > min(self.model.max_positions()):\n raise ValueError(\n \"tokens exceeds maximum length: {} > {}\".format(\n tokens.size(-1), self.model.max_positions()\n )\n )\n tokens.to(device=self.device),\n prev_output_tokens = tokens.clone()\n\n prev_output_tokens[:, 0] = tokens.gather(\n 1,\n (tokens.ne(self.task.source_dictionary.pad()).sum(dim=1) - 1).unsqueeze(-1),\n ).squeeze()\n\n prev_output_tokens[:, 1:] = tokens[:, :-1]\n features, extra = self.model(\n src_tokens=tokens,\n src_lengths=None,\n prev_output_tokens=prev_output_tokens,\n features_only=True,\n return_all_hiddens=return_all_hiddens,\n )\n if return_all_hiddens:\n # convert from T x B x C -> B x T x C\n inner_states = extra[\"inner_states\"]\n return [inner_state.transpose(0, 1) for inner_state in inner_states]\n else:\n return features # just the last layer's features\n\n def register_classification_head(\n self, name: str, num_classes: int = None, embedding_size: int = None, **kwargs\n ):\n self.model.register_classification_head(\n name, num_classes=num_classes, embedding_size=embedding_size, **kwargs\n )\n\n def predict(self, head: str, tokens: torch.LongTensor, return_logits: bool = False):\n if tokens.dim() == 1:\n tokens = tokens.unsqueeze(0)\n features = self.extract_features(tokens.to(device=self.device))\n sentence_representation = features[\n tokens.eq(self.task.source_dictionary.eos()), :\n ].view(features.size(0), -1, features.size(-1))[:, -1, :]\n\n logits = self.model.classification_heads[head](sentence_representation)\n if return_logits:\n return logits\n return F.log_softmax(logits, dim=-1)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/bart/model.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\"\"\"\nBART: Denoising Sequence-to-Sequence Pre-training for\nNatural Language Generation, Translation, and Comprehension\n\"\"\"\nimport os\nimport torch.nn as nn\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\nfrom fairseq.models import (\n register_model,\n register_model_architecture,\n)\nfrom fairseq.models.transformer import TransformerModel\nfrom fairseq.modules.transformer_sentence_encoder import init_bert_params\n\nfrom .hub_interface import BARTHubInterface\n\n# some ugly stuff\nPATH_TO_BART_MODEL = os.environ.get(\n \"PATH_TO_BART_MODEL\", \"/kaggle/input/bart-large/bart.large/\"\n)\n\n\n@register_model(\"bart\")\nclass BARTModel(TransformerModel):\n @classmethod\n def hub_models(cls):\n return {\n \"bart.large\": PATH_TO_BART_MODEL,\n }\n\n def __init__(self, args, encoder, decoder):\n super().__init__(args, encoder, decoder)\n\n # We follow BERT's random weight initialization\n self.apply(init_bert_params)\n\n self.classification_heads = nn.ModuleDict()\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n super(BARTModel, BARTModel).add_args(parser)\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--pooler-dropout\",\n type=float,\n metavar=\"D\",\n help=\"dropout probability in the masked_lm pooler layers\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--pooler-activation-fn\",\n choices=utils.get_available_activation_fns(),\n help=\"activation function to use for pooler layer\",\n )\n\n @property\n def supported_targets(self):\n return {\"self\"}\n\n def forward(\n self,\n src_tokens,\n src_lengths,\n prev_output_tokens,\n features_only=False,\n classification_head_name=None,\n **kwargs,\n ):\n if classification_head_name is not None:\n features_only = True\n\n encoder_out = self.encoder(src_tokens, src_lengths=src_lengths, **kwargs,)\n x, extra = self.decoder(\n prev_output_tokens,\n encoder_out=encoder_out,\n features_only=features_only,\n **kwargs,\n )\n\n if classification_head_name is not None:\n sentence_representation = x[\n src_tokens.eq(self.encoder.dictionary.eos()), :\n ].view(x.size(0), -1, x.size(-1))[:, -1, :]\n x = self.classification_heads[classification_head_name](\n sentence_representation\n )\n return x, extra\n\n @classmethod\n def from_pretrained(\n cls,\n model_name_or_path,\n include_model=True,\n checkpoint_file=\"model.pt\",\n data_name_or_path=\".\",\n bpe=\"gpt2\",\n **kwargs,\n ):\n from fairseq import hub_utils\n\n x = hub_utils.from_pretrained(\n model_name_or_path,\n checkpoint_file,\n data_name_or_path,\n archive_map=cls.hub_models(),\n bpe=bpe,\n load_checkpoint_heads=True,\n **kwargs,\n )\n print(\"Almost done\")\n if not include_model:\n return BARTHubInterface(x[\"args\"], x[\"task\"], None)\n\n return BARTHubInterface(x[\"args\"], x[\"task\"], x[\"models\"][0])\n\n def register_classification_head(\n self, name, num_classes=None, inner_dim=None, **kwargs\n ):\n \"\"\"Register a classification head.\"\"\"\n print(\"Registering classification head: {0}\".format(name))\n if name in self.classification_heads:\n prev_num_classes = self.classification_heads[name].out_proj.out_features\n prev_inner_dim = self.classification_heads[name].dense.out_features\n if num_classes != prev_num_classes or inner_dim != prev_inner_dim:\n print(\n 'WARNING: re-registering head \"{}\" with num_classes {} (prev: {}) '\n \"and inner_dim {} (prev: {})\".format(\n name, num_classes, prev_num_classes, inner_dim, prev_inner_dim\n )\n )\n self.classification_heads[name] = BARTClassificationHead(\n self.args.encoder_embed_dim,\n inner_dim or self.args.encoder_embed_dim,\n num_classes,\n self.args.pooler_activation_fn,\n self.args.pooler_dropout,\n )\n\n def upgrade_state_dict_named(self, state_dict, name):\n super().upgrade_state_dict_named(state_dict, name)\n\n prefix = name + \".\" if name != \"\" else \"\"\n current_head_names = (\n []\n if not hasattr(self, \"classification_heads\")\n else self.classification_heads.keys()\n )\n\n # Handle new classification heads present in the state dict.\n keys_to_delete = []\n for k in state_dict.keys():\n if not k.startswith(prefix + \"classification_heads.\"):\n continue\n\n head_name = k[len(prefix + \"classification_heads.\") :].split(\".\")[0]\n num_classes = state_dict[\n prefix + \"classification_heads.\" + head_name + \".out_proj.weight\"\n ].size(0)\n inner_dim = state_dict[\n prefix + \"classification_heads.\" + head_name + \".dense.weight\"\n ].size(0)\n\n if getattr(self.args, \"load_checkpoint_heads\", False):\n if head_name not in current_head_names:\n self.register_classification_head(head_name, num_classes, inner_dim)\n else:\n if head_name not in current_head_names:\n print(\n \"WARNING: deleting classification head ({}) from checkpoint \"\n \"not present in current model: {}\".format(head_name, k)\n )\n keys_to_delete.append(k)\n elif (\n num_classes\n != self.classification_heads[head_name].out_proj.out_features\n or inner_dim\n != self.classification_heads[head_name].dense.out_features\n ):\n print(\n \"WARNING: deleting classification head ({}) from checkpoint \"\n \"with different dimensions than current model: {}\".format(\n head_name, k\n )\n )\n keys_to_delete.append(k)\n for k in keys_to_delete:\n del state_dict[k]\n\n # When finetuning on translation task, remove last row of\n # embedding matrix that corresponds to mask_idx token.\n loaded_dict_size = state_dict[\"encoder.embed_tokens.weight\"].size(0)\n if (\n loaded_dict_size == len(self.encoder.dictionary) + 1\n and \"<mask>\" not in self.encoder.dictionary\n ):\n state_dict[\"encoder.embed_tokens.weight\"] = state_dict[\n \"encoder.embed_tokens.weight\"\n ][: loaded_dict_size - 1, :]\n state_dict[\"decoder.embed_tokens.weight\"] = state_dict[\n \"decoder.embed_tokens.weight\"\n ][: loaded_dict_size - 1, :]\n\n # Copy any newly-added classification heads into the state dict\n # with their current weights.\n if hasattr(self, \"classification_heads\"):\n cur_state = self.classification_heads.state_dict()\n for k, v in cur_state.items():\n if prefix + \"classification_heads.\" + k not in state_dict:\n print(\"Overwriting\", prefix + \"classification_heads.\" + k)\n state_dict[prefix + \"classification_heads.\" + k] = v\n\n\nclass BARTClassificationHead(nn.Module):\n \"\"\"Head for sentence-level classification tasks.\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self, input_dim, inner_dim, num_classes, activation_fn, pooler_dropout,\n ):\n super().__init__()\n self.dense = nn.Linear(input_dim, inner_dim)\n self.activation_fn = utils.get_activation_fn(activation_fn)\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(p=pooler_dropout)\n self.out_proj = nn.Linear(inner_dim, num_classes)\n\n def forward(self, features, **kwargs):\n x = features\n x = self.dropout(x)\n x = self.dense(x)\n x = self.activation_fn(x)\n x = self.dropout(x)\n x = self.out_proj(x)\n return x\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"bart\", \"bart_large\")\ndef bart_large_architecture(args):\n args.encoder_embed_path = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_path\", None)\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", 1024)\n args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 4 * 1024)\n args.encoder_layers = getattr(args, \"encoder_layers\", 12)\n args.encoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"encoder_attention_heads\", 16)\n args.encoder_normalize_before = getattr(args, \"encoder_normalize_before\", False)\n args.encoder_learned_pos = getattr(args, \"encoder_learned_pos\", True)\n args.decoder_embed_path = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_path\", None)\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", args.encoder_embed_dim)\n args.decoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(\n args, \"decoder_ffn_embed_dim\", args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim\n )\n args.decoder_layers = getattr(args, \"decoder_layers\", 12)\n args.decoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"decoder_attention_heads\", 16)\n args.decoder_normalize_before = getattr(args, \"decoder_normalize_before\", False)\n args.decoder_learned_pos = getattr(args, \"decoder_learned_pos\", True)\n args.attention_dropout = getattr(args, \"attention_dropout\", 0.0)\n args.relu_dropout = getattr(args, \"relu_dropout\", 0.0)\n args.dropout = getattr(args, \"dropout\", 0.1)\n args.max_target_positions = getattr(args, \"max_target_positions\", 1024)\n args.max_source_positions = getattr(args, \"max_source_positions\", 1024)\n args.adaptive_softmax_cutoff = getattr(args, \"adaptive_softmax_cutoff\", None)\n args.adaptive_softmax_dropout = getattr(args, \"adaptive_softmax_dropout\", 0)\n args.share_decoder_input_output_embed = getattr(\n args, \"share_decoder_input_output_embed\", True\n )\n args.share_all_embeddings = getattr(args, \"share_all_embeddings\", True)\n\n args.decoder_output_dim = getattr(\n args, \"decoder_output_dim\", args.decoder_embed_dim\n )\n args.decoder_input_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_input_dim\", args.decoder_embed_dim)\n\n args.no_scale_embedding = getattr(args, \"no_scale_embedding\", True)\n args.layernorm_embedding = getattr(args, \"layernorm_embedding\", True)\n\n args.activation_fn = getattr(args, \"activation_fn\", \"gelu\")\n args.pooler_activation_fn = getattr(args, \"pooler_activation_fn\", \"tanh\")\n args.pooler_dropout = getattr(args, \"pooler_dropout\", 0.0)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/cmlm_transformer.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\n\"\"\"\nThis file implements:\nGhazvininejad, Marjan, et al.\n\"Constant-time machine translation with conditional masked language models.\"\narXiv preprint arXiv:1904.09324 (2019).\n\"\"\"\n\nfrom fairseq.models import register_model, register_model_architecture\nfrom fairseq.models.nonautoregressive_transformer import NATransformerModel\nfrom fairseq.utils import new_arange\n\n\ndef _skeptical_unmasking(output_scores, output_masks, p):\n sorted_index = output_scores.sort(-1)[1]\n boundary_len = (\n (output_masks.sum(1, keepdim=True).type_as(output_scores) - 2) * p\n ).long()\n skeptical_mask = new_arange(output_masks) < boundary_len\n return skeptical_mask.scatter(1, sorted_index, skeptical_mask)\n\n\n@register_model(\"cmlm_transformer\")\nclass CMLMNATransformerModel(NATransformerModel):\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n NATransformerModel.add_args(parser)\n\n def forward(\n self, src_tokens, src_lengths, prev_output_tokens, tgt_tokens, **kwargs\n ):\n assert not self.decoder.src_embedding_copy, \"do not support embedding copy.\"\n\n encoder_out = self.encoder(src_tokens, src_lengths=src_lengths, **kwargs)\n length_out, length_tgt = self.decoder.forward_length_prediction(\n encoder_out, tgt_tokens\n )\n\n word_ins_out, word_ins_tgt, _ = self.decoder(\n prev_output_tokens, encoder_out=encoder_out, tgt_tokens=tgt_tokens\n )\n word_ins_mask = prev_output_tokens.eq(self.unk)\n\n return {\n \"word_ins\": {\n \"out\": word_ins_out,\n \"tgt\": word_ins_tgt,\n \"mask\": word_ins_mask,\n \"ls\": self.args.label_smoothing,\n \"nll_loss\": True,\n },\n \"length\": {\n \"out\": length_out,\n \"tgt\": length_tgt,\n \"factor\": self.decoder.length_loss_factor,\n },\n }\n\n def forward_decoder(self, decoder_out, encoder_out, decoding_format=None, **kwargs):\n\n step = decoder_out.step\n max_step = decoder_out.max_step\n\n output_tokens = decoder_out.output_tokens\n output_scores = decoder_out.output_scores\n history = decoder_out.history\n\n # execute the decoder\n output_masks = output_tokens.eq(self.unk)\n _scores, _tokens = self.decoder(\n output_tokens, encoder_out=encoder_out, decoding_format=decoding_format\n )\n output_tokens.masked_scatter_(output_masks, _tokens[output_masks])\n output_scores.masked_scatter_(output_masks, _scores[output_masks])\n\n if history is not None:\n history.append(output_tokens.clone())\n\n # skeptical decoding (depend on the maximum decoding steps.)\n if (step + 1) < max_step:\n skeptical_mask = _skeptical_unmasking(\n output_scores, output_tokens.ne(self.pad), 1 - (step + 1) / max_step\n )\n\n output_tokens.masked_fill_(skeptical_mask, self.unk)\n output_scores.masked_fill_(skeptical_mask, 0.0)\n\n if history is not None:\n history.append(output_tokens.clone())\n\n return decoder_out._replace(\n output_tokens=output_tokens,\n output_scores=output_scores,\n attn=None,\n history=history,\n )\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"cmlm_transformer\", \"cmlm_transformer\")\ndef base_architecture(args):\n args.encoder_embed_path = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_path\", None)\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", 512)\n args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 2048)\n args.encoder_layers = getattr(args, \"encoder_layers\", 6)\n args.encoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"encoder_attention_heads\", 8)\n args.encoder_normalize_before = getattr(args, \"encoder_normalize_before\", False)\n args.encoder_learned_pos = getattr(args, \"encoder_learned_pos\", False)\n args.decoder_embed_path = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_path\", None)\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", args.encoder_embed_dim)\n args.decoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(\n args, \"decoder_ffn_embed_dim\", args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim\n )\n args.decoder_layers = getattr(args, \"decoder_layers\", 6)\n args.decoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"decoder_attention_heads\", 8)\n args.decoder_normalize_before = getattr(args, \"decoder_normalize_before\", False)\n args.decoder_learned_pos = getattr(args, \"decoder_learned_pos\", False)\n args.attention_dropout = getattr(args, \"attention_dropout\", 0.0)\n args.activation_dropout = getattr(args, \"activation_dropout\", 0.0)\n args.activation_fn = getattr(args, \"activation_fn\", \"relu\")\n args.dropout = getattr(args, \"dropout\", 0.1)\n args.adaptive_softmax_cutoff = getattr(args, \"adaptive_softmax_cutoff\", None)\n args.adaptive_softmax_dropout = getattr(args, \"adaptive_softmax_dropout\", 0)\n args.share_decoder_input_output_embed = getattr(\n args, \"share_decoder_input_output_embed\", False\n )\n args.share_all_embeddings = getattr(args, \"share_all_embeddings\", True)\n args.no_token_positional_embeddings = getattr(\n args, \"no_token_positional_embeddings\", False\n )\n args.adaptive_input = getattr(args, \"adaptive_input\", False)\n args.apply_bert_init = getattr(args, \"apply_bert_init\", False)\n\n args.decoder_output_dim = getattr(\n args, \"decoder_output_dim\", args.decoder_embed_dim\n )\n args.decoder_input_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_input_dim\", args.decoder_embed_dim)\n\n # --- special arguments ---\n args.sg_length_pred = getattr(args, \"sg_length_pred\", False)\n args.pred_length_offset = getattr(args, \"pred_length_offset\", False)\n args.length_loss_factor = getattr(args, \"length_loss_factor\", 0.1)\n args.ngram_predictor = getattr(args, \"ngram_predictor\", 1)\n args.src_embedding_copy = getattr(args, \"src_embedding_copy\", False)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"cmlm_transformer\", \"cmlm_transformer_wmt_en_de\")\ndef iter_nat_wmt_en_de(args):\n base_architecture(args)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/composite_encoder.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom fairseq.models import FairseqEncoder\n\n\nclass CompositeEncoder(FairseqEncoder):\n \"\"\"\n A wrapper around a dictionary of :class:`FairseqEncoder` objects.\n\n We run forward on each encoder and return a dictionary of outputs. The first\n encoder's dictionary is used for initialization.\n\n Args:\n encoders (dict): a dictionary of :class:`FairseqEncoder` objects.\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, encoders):\n super().__init__(next(iter(encoders.values())).dictionary)\n self.encoders = encoders\n for key in self.encoders:\n self.add_module(key, self.encoders[key])\n\n def forward(self, src_tokens, src_lengths):\n \"\"\"\n Args:\n src_tokens (LongTensor): tokens in the source language of shape\n `(batch, src_len)`\n src_lengths (LongTensor): lengths of each source sentence of shape\n `(batch)`\n\n Returns:\n dict:\n the outputs from each Encoder\n \"\"\"\n encoder_out = {}\n for key in self.encoders:\n encoder_out[key] = self.encoders[key](src_tokens, src_lengths)\n return encoder_out\n\n def reorder_encoder_out(self, encoder_out, new_order):\n \"\"\"Reorder encoder output according to new_order.\"\"\"\n for key in self.encoders:\n encoder_out[key] = self.encoders[key].reorder_encoder_out(\n encoder_out[key], new_order\n )\n return encoder_out\n\n def max_positions(self):\n return min([self.encoders[key].max_positions() for key in self.encoders])\n\n def upgrade_state_dict(self, state_dict):\n for key in self.encoders:\n self.encoders[key].upgrade_state_dict(state_dict)\n return state_dict\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/distributed_fairseq_model.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport inspect\n\nimport torch.nn as nn\n\nfrom fairseq.legacy_distributed_data_parallel import LegacyDistributedDataParallel\nfrom fairseq.models import BaseFairseqModel\n\n\ndef DistributedFairseqModel(args, model):\n \"\"\"\n Wrap a *model* to support distributed data parallel training.\n\n This is similar to the built-in DistributedDataParallel, but allows\n additional configuration of the DistributedDataParallel class to\n use, and also provides easier access to the wrapped model by\n forwarding requests for missing attributes to the wrapped model.\n\n Args:\n args (argparse.Namespace): fairseq args\n model (BaseFairseqModel): model to wrap\n \"\"\"\n # determine which DDP class to extend\n assert isinstance(model, nn.Module)\n if args.ddp_backend == \"c10d\":\n ddp_class = nn.parallel.DistributedDataParallel\n init_kwargs = dict(\n module=model,\n device_ids=[args.device_id],\n output_device=args.device_id,\n broadcast_buffers=False,\n bucket_cap_mb=args.bucket_cap_mb,\n )\n # Maintain backward compatibility\n if \"check_reduction\" in inspect.getargspec(ddp_class)[0]:\n init_kwargs[\"check_reduction\"] = True\n if \"find_unused_parameters\" in inspect.getargspec(ddp_class)[0]:\n init_kwargs[\"find_unused_parameters\"] = args.find_unused_parameters\n elif args.ddp_backend == \"no_c10d\":\n ddp_class = LegacyDistributedDataParallel\n init_kwargs = dict(\n module=model, world_size=args.distributed_world_size, buffer_size=2 ** 28,\n )\n else:\n raise ValueError(\"Unknown --ddp-backend: \" + args.ddp_backend)\n\n class _DistributedFairseqModel(ddp_class):\n \"\"\"Extend DistributedDataParallel to check for missing\n attributes in the wrapped module.\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, *args, **kwargs):\n super().__init__(*args, **kwargs)\n\n def __getattr__(self, name):\n wrapped_module = super().__getattr__(\"module\")\n if hasattr(wrapped_module, name):\n return getattr(wrapped_module, name)\n return super().__getattr__(name)\n\n return _DistributedFairseqModel(**init_kwargs)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/fairseq_decoder.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch.nn as nn\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\n\n\nclass FairseqDecoder(nn.Module):\n \"\"\"Base class for decoders.\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, dictionary):\n super().__init__()\n self.dictionary = dictionary\n self.onnx_trace = False\n\n def forward(self, prev_output_tokens, encoder_out=None, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"\n Args:\n prev_output_tokens (LongTensor): shifted output tokens of shape\n `(batch, tgt_len)`, for teacher forcing\n encoder_out (dict, optional): output from the encoder, used for\n encoder-side attention\n\n Returns:\n tuple:\n - the decoder's output of shape `(batch, tgt_len, vocab)`\n - a dictionary with any model-specific outputs\n \"\"\"\n x, extra = self.extract_features(\n prev_output_tokens, encoder_out=encoder_out, **kwargs\n )\n x = self.output_layer(x)\n return x, extra\n\n def extract_features(self, prev_output_tokens, encoder_out=None, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"\n Returns:\n tuple:\n - the decoder's features of shape `(batch, tgt_len, embed_dim)`\n - a dictionary with any model-specific outputs\n \"\"\"\n raise NotImplementedError\n\n def output_layer(self, features, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"\n Project features to the default output size, e.g., vocabulary size.\n\n Args:\n features (Tensor): features returned by *extract_features*.\n \"\"\"\n raise NotImplementedError\n\n def get_normalized_probs(self, net_output, log_probs, sample):\n \"\"\"Get normalized probabilities (or log probs) from a net's output.\"\"\"\n\n if hasattr(self, \"adaptive_softmax\") and self.adaptive_softmax is not None:\n if sample is not None:\n assert \"target\" in sample\n target = sample[\"target\"]\n else:\n target = None\n out = self.adaptive_softmax.get_log_prob(net_output[0], target=target)\n return out.exp_() if not log_probs else out\n\n logits = net_output[0]\n if log_probs:\n return utils.log_softmax(logits, dim=-1, onnx_trace=self.onnx_trace)\n else:\n return utils.softmax(logits, dim=-1, onnx_trace=self.onnx_trace)\n\n def max_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Maximum input length supported by the decoder.\"\"\"\n return 1e6 # an arbitrary large number\n\n def upgrade_state_dict(self, state_dict):\n \"\"\"Upgrade a (possibly old) state dict for new versions of fairseq.\"\"\"\n return state_dict\n\n def prepare_for_onnx_export_(self):\n self.onnx_trace = True\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/fairseq_encoder.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch.nn as nn\n\n\nclass FairseqEncoder(nn.Module):\n \"\"\"Base class for encoders.\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, dictionary):\n super().__init__()\n self.dictionary = dictionary\n\n def forward(self, src_tokens, src_lengths=None, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"\n Args:\n src_tokens (LongTensor): tokens in the source language of shape\n `(batch, src_len)`\n src_lengths (LongTensor): lengths of each source sentence of shape\n `(batch)`\n \"\"\"\n raise NotImplementedError\n\n def reorder_encoder_out(self, encoder_out, new_order):\n \"\"\"\n Reorder encoder output according to `new_order`.\n\n Args:\n encoder_out: output from the ``forward()`` method\n new_order (LongTensor): desired order\n\n Returns:\n `encoder_out` rearranged according to `new_order`\n \"\"\"\n raise NotImplementedError\n\n def max_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Maximum input length supported by the encoder.\"\"\"\n return 1e6 # an arbitrary large number\n\n def upgrade_state_dict(self, state_dict):\n \"\"\"Upgrade a (possibly old) state dict for new versions of fairseq.\"\"\"\n return state_dict\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/fairseq_incremental_decoder.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom fairseq.models import FairseqDecoder\n\n\nclass FairseqIncrementalDecoder(FairseqDecoder):\n \"\"\"Base class for incremental decoders.\n\n Incremental decoding is a special mode at inference time where the Model\n only receives a single timestep of input corresponding to the previous\n output token (for teacher forcing) and must produce the next output\n *incrementally*. Thus the model must cache any long-term state that is\n needed about the sequence, e.g., hidden states, convolutional states, etc.\n\n Compared to the standard :class:`FairseqDecoder` interface, the incremental\n decoder interface allows :func:`forward` functions to take an extra keyword\n argument (*incremental_state*) that can be used to cache state across\n time-steps.\n\n The :class:`FairseqIncrementalDecoder` interface also defines the\n :func:`reorder_incremental_state` method, which is used during beam search\n to select and reorder the incremental state based on the selection of beams.\n\n To learn more about how incremental decoding works, refer to `this blog\n <http://www.telesens.co/2019/04/21/understanding-incremental-decoding-in-fairseq/>`_.\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, dictionary):\n super().__init__(dictionary)\n\n def forward(\n self, prev_output_tokens, encoder_out=None, incremental_state=None, **kwargs\n ):\n \"\"\"\n Args:\n prev_output_tokens (LongTensor): shifted output tokens of shape\n `(batch, tgt_len)`, for teacher forcing\n encoder_out (dict, optional): output from the encoder, used for\n encoder-side attention\n incremental_state (dict, optional): dictionary used for storing\n state during :ref:`Incremental decoding`\n\n Returns:\n tuple:\n - the decoder's output of shape `(batch, tgt_len, vocab)`\n - a dictionary with any model-specific outputs\n \"\"\"\n raise NotImplementedError\n\n def extract_features(\n self, prev_output_tokens, encoder_out=None, incremental_state=None, **kwargs\n ):\n \"\"\"\n Returns:\n tuple:\n - the decoder's features of shape `(batch, tgt_len, embed_dim)`\n - a dictionary with any model-specific outputs\n \"\"\"\n raise NotImplementedError\n\n def reorder_incremental_state(self, incremental_state, new_order):\n \"\"\"Reorder incremental state.\n\n This should be called when the order of the input has changed from the\n previous time step. A typical use case is beam search, where the input\n order changes between time steps based on the selection of beams.\n \"\"\"\n seen = set()\n\n def apply_reorder_incremental_state(module):\n if (\n module != self\n and hasattr(module, \"reorder_incremental_state\")\n and module not in seen\n ):\n seen.add(module)\n module.reorder_incremental_state(incremental_state, new_order)\n\n self.apply(apply_reorder_incremental_state)\n\n def set_beam_size(self, beam_size):\n \"\"\"Sets the beam size in the decoder and all children.\"\"\"\n if getattr(self, \"_beam_size\", -1) != beam_size:\n seen = set()\n\n def apply_set_beam_size(module):\n if (\n module != self\n and hasattr(module, \"set_beam_size\")\n and module not in seen\n ):\n seen.add(module)\n module.set_beam_size(beam_size)\n\n self.apply(apply_set_beam_size)\n self._beam_size = beam_size\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/fairseq_model.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\"\"\"\nBase classes for various fairseq models.\n\"\"\"\n\nfrom typing import Dict, List, Optional\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn as nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\nfrom fairseq.checkpoint_utils import prune_state_dict\nfrom fairseq.data import Dictionary\nfrom fairseq.models import FairseqDecoder, FairseqEncoder\n\n\nclass BaseFairseqModel(nn.Module):\n \"\"\"Base class for fairseq models.\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self):\n super().__init__()\n self._is_generation_fast = False\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add model-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n pass\n\n @classmethod\n def build_model(cls, args, task):\n \"\"\"Build a new model instance.\"\"\"\n raise NotImplementedError(\"Model must implement the build_model method\")\n\n def get_targets(self, sample, net_output):\n \"\"\"Get targets from either the sample or the net's output.\"\"\"\n return sample[\"target\"]\n\n def get_normalized_probs(self, net_output, log_probs, sample=None):\n \"\"\"Get normalized probabilities (or log probs) from a net's output.\"\"\"\n if hasattr(self, \"decoder\"):\n return self.decoder.get_normalized_probs(net_output, log_probs, sample)\n elif torch.is_tensor(net_output):\n logits = net_output.float()\n if log_probs:\n return F.log_softmax(logits, dim=-1)\n else:\n return F.softmax(logits, dim=-1)\n raise NotImplementedError\n\n def extract_features(self, *args, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Similar to *forward* but only return features.\"\"\"\n return self(*args, **kwargs)\n\n def max_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Maximum length supported by the model.\"\"\"\n return None\n\n def load_state_dict(self, state_dict, strict=True, args=None):\n \"\"\"Copies parameters and buffers from *state_dict* into this module and\n its descendants.\n\n Overrides the method in :class:`nn.Module`. Compared with that method\n this additionally \"upgrades\" *state_dicts* from old checkpoints.\n \"\"\"\n self.upgrade_state_dict(state_dict)\n new_state_dict = prune_state_dict(state_dict, args)\n return super().load_state_dict(new_state_dict, strict)\n\n def upgrade_state_dict(self, state_dict):\n \"\"\"Upgrade old state dicts to work with newer code.\"\"\"\n self.upgrade_state_dict_named(state_dict, \"\")\n\n def upgrade_state_dict_named(self, state_dict, name):\n \"\"\"Upgrade old state dicts to work with newer code.\n\n Args:\n state_dict (dict): state dictionary to upgrade, in place\n name (str): the state dict key corresponding to the current module\n \"\"\"\n assert state_dict is not None\n\n def do_upgrade(m, prefix):\n if len(prefix) > 0:\n prefix += \".\"\n\n for n, c in m.named_children():\n name = prefix + n\n if hasattr(c, \"upgrade_state_dict_named\"):\n c.upgrade_state_dict_named(state_dict, name)\n elif hasattr(c, \"upgrade_state_dict\"):\n c.upgrade_state_dict(state_dict)\n do_upgrade(c, name)\n\n do_upgrade(self, name)\n\n def make_generation_fast_(self, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Optimize model for faster generation.\"\"\"\n if self._is_generation_fast:\n return # only apply once\n self._is_generation_fast = True\n\n # remove weight norm from all modules in the network\n def apply_remove_weight_norm(module):\n try:\n nn.utils.remove_weight_norm(module)\n except ValueError: # this module didn't have weight norm\n return\n\n self.apply(apply_remove_weight_norm)\n\n seen = set()\n\n def apply_make_generation_fast_(module):\n if (\n module != self\n and hasattr(module, \"make_generation_fast_\")\n and module not in seen\n ):\n seen.add(module)\n module.make_generation_fast_(**kwargs)\n\n self.apply(apply_make_generation_fast_)\n\n def train(mode=True):\n if mode:\n raise RuntimeError(\"cannot train after make_generation_fast\")\n\n # this model should no longer be used for training\n self.eval()\n self.train = train\n\n def prepare_for_onnx_export_(self, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Make model exportable via ONNX trace.\"\"\"\n seen = set()\n\n def apply_prepare_for_onnx_export_(module):\n if (\n module != self\n and hasattr(module, \"prepare_for_onnx_export_\")\n and module not in seen\n ):\n seen.add(module)\n module.prepare_for_onnx_export_(**kwargs)\n\n self.apply(apply_prepare_for_onnx_export_)\n\n @classmethod\n def from_pretrained(\n cls,\n model_name_or_path,\n checkpoint_file=\"model.pt\",\n data_name_or_path=\".\",\n **kwargs\n ):\n \"\"\"\n Load a :class:`~fairseq.models.FairseqModel` from a pre-trained model\n file. Downloads and caches the pre-trained model file if needed.\n\n The base implementation returns a\n :class:`~fairseq.hub_utils.GeneratorHubInterface`, which can be used to\n generate translations or sample from language models. The underlying\n :class:`~fairseq.models.FairseqModel` can be accessed via the\n *generator.models* attribute.\n\n Other models may override this to implement custom hub interfaces.\n\n Args:\n model_name_or_path (str): either the name of a pre-trained model to\n load or a path/URL to a pre-trained model state dict\n checkpoint_file (str, optional): colon-separated list of checkpoint\n files in the model archive to ensemble (default: 'model.pt')\n data_name_or_path (str, optional): point args.data to the archive\n at the given path/URL. Can start with '.' or './' to reuse the\n model archive path.\n \"\"\"\n from fairseq import hub_utils\n\n x = hub_utils.from_pretrained(\n model_name_or_path,\n checkpoint_file,\n data_name_or_path,\n archive_map=cls.hub_models(),\n **kwargs,\n )\n print(x[\"args\"])\n return hub_utils.GeneratorHubInterface(x[\"args\"], x[\"task\"], x[\"models\"])\n\n @classmethod\n def hub_models(cls):\n return {}\n\n\nclass FairseqEncoderDecoderModel(BaseFairseqModel):\n \"\"\"Base class for encoder-decoder models.\n\n Args:\n encoder (FairseqEncoder): the encoder\n decoder (FairseqDecoder): the decoder\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, encoder, decoder):\n super().__init__()\n\n self.encoder = encoder\n self.decoder = decoder\n assert isinstance(self.encoder, FairseqEncoder)\n assert isinstance(self.decoder, FairseqDecoder)\n\n def forward(self, src_tokens, src_lengths, prev_output_tokens, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"\n Run the forward pass for an encoder-decoder model.\n\n First feed a batch of source tokens through the encoder. Then, feed the\n encoder output and previous decoder outputs (i.e., teacher forcing) to\n the decoder to produce the next outputs::\n\n encoder_out = self.encoder(src_tokens, src_lengths)\n return self.decoder(prev_output_tokens, encoder_out)\n\n Args:\n src_tokens (LongTensor): tokens in the source language of shape\n `(batch, src_len)`\n src_lengths (LongTensor): source sentence lengths of shape `(batch)`\n prev_output_tokens (LongTensor): previous decoder outputs of shape\n `(batch, tgt_len)`, for teacher forcing\n\n Returns:\n tuple:\n - the decoder's output of shape `(batch, tgt_len, vocab)`\n - a dictionary with any model-specific outputs\n \"\"\"\n encoder_out = self.encoder(src_tokens, src_lengths=src_lengths, **kwargs)\n decoder_out = self.decoder(\n prev_output_tokens, encoder_out=encoder_out, **kwargs\n )\n return decoder_out\n\n def forward_decoder(self, prev_output_tokens, **kwargs):\n return self.decoder(prev_output_tokens, **kwargs)\n\n def extract_features(self, src_tokens, src_lengths, prev_output_tokens, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"\n Similar to *forward* but only return features.\n\n Returns:\n tuple:\n - the decoder's features of shape `(batch, tgt_len, embed_dim)`\n - a dictionary with any model-specific outputs\n \"\"\"\n encoder_out = self.encoder(src_tokens, src_lengths=src_lengths, **kwargs)\n features = self.decoder.extract_features(\n prev_output_tokens, encoder_out=encoder_out, **kwargs\n )\n return features\n\n def output_layer(self, features, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Project features to the default output size (typically vocabulary size).\"\"\"\n return self.decoder.output_layer(features, **kwargs)\n\n def max_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Maximum length supported by the model.\"\"\"\n return (self.encoder.max_positions(), self.decoder.max_positions())\n\n def max_decoder_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Maximum length supported by the decoder.\"\"\"\n return self.decoder.max_positions()\n\n\nclass FairseqModel(FairseqEncoderDecoderModel):\n def __init__(self, *args, **kwargs):\n super().__init__(*args, **kwargs)\n utils.deprecation_warning(\n \"FairseqModel is deprecated, please use FairseqEncoderDecoderModel \"\n \"or BaseFairseqModel instead\",\n stacklevel=4,\n )\n\n\nclass FairseqMultiModel(BaseFairseqModel):\n \"\"\"Base class for combining multiple encoder-decoder models.\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, encoders, decoders):\n super().__init__()\n assert encoders.keys() == decoders.keys()\n self.keys = list(encoders.keys())\n for key in self.keys:\n assert isinstance(encoders[key], FairseqEncoder)\n assert isinstance(decoders[key], FairseqDecoder)\n\n self.models = nn.ModuleDict(\n {key: FairseqModel(encoders[key], decoders[key]) for key in self.keys}\n )\n\n @staticmethod\n def build_shared_embeddings(\n dicts: Dict[str, Dictionary],\n langs: List[str],\n embed_dim: int,\n build_embedding: callable,\n pretrained_embed_path: Optional[str] = None,\n ):\n \"\"\"\n Helper function to build shared embeddings for a set of languages after\n checking that all dicts corresponding to those languages are equivalent.\n\n Args:\n dicts: Dict of lang_id to its corresponding Dictionary\n langs: languages that we want to share embeddings for\n embed_dim: embedding dimension\n build_embedding: callable function to actually build the embedding\n pretrained_embed_path: Optional path to load pretrained embeddings\n \"\"\"\n shared_dict = dicts[langs[0]]\n if any(dicts[lang] != shared_dict for lang in langs):\n raise ValueError(\n \"--share-*-embeddings requires a joined dictionary: \"\n \"--share-encoder-embeddings requires a joined source \"\n \"dictionary, --share-decoder-embeddings requires a joined \"\n \"target dictionary, and --share-all-embeddings requires a \"\n \"joint source + target dictionary.\"\n )\n return build_embedding(shared_dict, embed_dim, pretrained_embed_path)\n\n def forward(self, src_tokens, src_lengths, prev_output_tokens, **kwargs):\n decoder_outs = {}\n for key in self.keys:\n encoder_out = self.models[key].encoder(src_tokens, src_lengths, **kwargs)\n decoder_outs[key] = self.models[key].decoder(\n prev_output_tokens, encoder_out, **kwargs,\n )\n return decoder_outs\n\n def max_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Maximum length supported by the model.\"\"\"\n return {\n key: (\n self.models[key].encoder.max_positions(),\n self.models[key].decoder.max_positions(),\n )\n for key in self.keys\n }\n\n def max_decoder_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Maximum length supported by the decoder.\"\"\"\n return min(model.decoder.max_positions() for model in self.models.values())\n\n @property\n def encoder(self):\n return self.models[self.keys[0]].encoder\n\n @property\n def decoder(self):\n return self.models[self.keys[0]].decoder\n\n\nclass FairseqLanguageModel(BaseFairseqModel):\n \"\"\"Base class for decoder-only models.\n\n Args:\n decoder (FairseqDecoder): the decoder\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, decoder):\n super().__init__()\n self.decoder = decoder\n assert isinstance(self.decoder, FairseqDecoder)\n\n def forward(self, src_tokens, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"\n Run the forward pass for a decoder-only model.\n\n Feeds a batch of tokens through the decoder to predict the next tokens.\n\n Args:\n src_tokens (LongTensor): tokens on which to condition the decoder,\n of shape `(batch, tgt_len)`\n src_lengths (LongTensor): source sentence lengths of shape `(batch)`\n\n Returns:\n tuple:\n - the decoder's output of shape `(batch, seq_len, vocab)`\n - a dictionary with any model-specific outputs\n \"\"\"\n return self.decoder(src_tokens, **kwargs)\n\n def forward_decoder(self, prev_output_tokens, **kwargs):\n return self.decoder(prev_output_tokens, **kwargs)\n\n def extract_features(self, src_tokens, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"\n Similar to *forward* but only return features.\n\n Returns:\n tuple:\n - the decoder's features of shape `(batch, seq_len, embed_dim)`\n - a dictionary with any model-specific outputs\n \"\"\"\n return self.decoder.extract_features(src_tokens, **kwargs)\n\n def output_layer(self, features, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Project features to the default output size (typically vocabulary size).\"\"\"\n return self.decoder.output_layer(features, **kwargs)\n\n def max_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Maximum length supported by the model.\"\"\"\n return self.decoder.max_positions()\n\n def max_decoder_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Maximum length supported by the decoder.\"\"\"\n return self.decoder.max_positions()\n\n @property\n def supported_targets(self):\n return {\"future\"}\n\n\nclass FairseqEncoderModel(BaseFairseqModel):\n \"\"\"Base class for encoder-only models.\n\n Args:\n encoder (FairseqEncoder): the encoder\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, encoder):\n super().__init__()\n self.encoder = encoder\n assert isinstance(self.encoder, FairseqEncoder)\n\n def forward(self, src_tokens, src_lengths, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"\n Run the forward pass for a encoder-only model.\n\n Feeds a batch of tokens through the encoder to generate features.\n\n Args:\n src_tokens (LongTensor): input tokens of shape `(batch, src_len)`\n src_lengths (LongTensor): source sentence lengths of shape `(batch)`\n\n Returns:\n the encoder's output, typically of shape `(batch, src_len, features)`\n \"\"\"\n return self.encoder(src_tokens, src_lengths, **kwargs)\n\n def get_normalized_probs(self, net_output, log_probs, sample=None):\n \"\"\"Get normalized probabilities (or log probs) from a net's output.\"\"\"\n encoder_out = net_output[\"encoder_out\"]\n if torch.is_tensor(encoder_out):\n logits = encoder_out.float()\n if log_probs:\n return F.log_softmax(logits, dim=-1)\n else:\n return F.softmax(logits, dim=-1)\n raise NotImplementedError\n\n def max_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Maximum length supported by the model.\"\"\"\n return self.encoder.max_positions()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/fconv.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport math\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn as nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\nfrom fairseq.models import (\n FairseqEncoder,\n FairseqIncrementalDecoder,\n FairseqEncoderDecoderModel,\n register_model,\n register_model_architecture,\n)\nfrom fairseq.modules import (\n AdaptiveSoftmax,\n BeamableMM,\n GradMultiply,\n LearnedPositionalEmbedding,\n LinearizedConvolution,\n)\n\n\n@register_model(\"fconv\")\nclass FConvModel(FairseqEncoderDecoderModel):\n \"\"\"\n A fully convolutional model, i.e. a convolutional encoder and a\n convolutional decoder, as described in `\"Convolutional Sequence to Sequence\n Learning\" (Gehring et al., 2017) <https://arxiv.org/abs/1705.03122>`_.\n\n Args:\n encoder (FConvEncoder): the encoder\n decoder (FConvDecoder): the decoder\n\n The Convolutional model provides the following named architectures and\n command-line arguments:\n\n .. argparse::\n :ref: fairseq.models.fconv_parser\n :prog:\n \"\"\"\n\n @classmethod\n def hub_models(cls):\n def moses_subword(path):\n return {\n \"path\": path,\n \"tokenizer\": \"moses\",\n \"bpe\": \"subword_nmt\",\n }\n\n return {\n \"conv.wmt14.en-fr\": moses_subword(\n \"https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt14.v2.en-fr.fconv-py.tar.bz2\"\n ),\n \"conv.wmt14.en-de\": moses_subword(\n \"https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt14.en-de.fconv-py.tar.bz2\"\n ),\n \"conv.wmt17.en-de\": moses_subword(\n \"https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt17.v2.en-de.fconv-py.tar.bz2\"\n ),\n }\n\n def __init__(self, encoder, decoder):\n super().__init__(encoder, decoder)\n self.encoder.num_attention_layers = sum(\n layer is not None for layer in decoder.attention\n )\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add model-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument('--dropout', type=float, metavar='D',\n help='dropout probability')\n parser.add_argument('--encoder-embed-dim', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='encoder embedding dimension')\n parser.add_argument('--encoder-embed-path', type=str, metavar='STR',\n help='path to pre-trained encoder embedding')\n parser.add_argument('--encoder-layers', type=str, metavar='EXPR',\n help='encoder layers [(dim, kernel_size), ...]')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-embed-dim', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='decoder embedding dimension')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-embed-path', type=str, metavar='STR',\n help='path to pre-trained decoder embedding')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-layers', type=str, metavar='EXPR',\n help='decoder layers [(dim, kernel_size), ...]')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-out-embed-dim', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='decoder output embedding dimension')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-attention', type=str, metavar='EXPR',\n help='decoder attention [True, ...]')\n parser.add_argument('--share-input-output-embed', action='store_true',\n help='share input and output embeddings (requires'\n ' --decoder-out-embed-dim and --decoder-embed-dim'\n ' to be equal)')\n # fmt: on\n\n @classmethod\n def build_model(cls, args, task):\n \"\"\"Build a new model instance.\"\"\"\n # make sure that all args are properly defaulted (in case there are any new ones)\n base_architecture(args)\n\n encoder_embed_dict = None\n if args.encoder_embed_path:\n encoder_embed_dict = utils.parse_embedding(args.encoder_embed_path)\n utils.print_embed_overlap(encoder_embed_dict, task.source_dictionary)\n\n decoder_embed_dict = None\n if args.decoder_embed_path:\n decoder_embed_dict = utils.parse_embedding(args.decoder_embed_path)\n utils.print_embed_overlap(decoder_embed_dict, task.target_dictionary)\n\n encoder = FConvEncoder(\n dictionary=task.source_dictionary,\n embed_dim=args.encoder_embed_dim,\n embed_dict=encoder_embed_dict,\n convolutions=eval(args.encoder_layers),\n dropout=args.dropout,\n max_positions=args.max_source_positions,\n )\n decoder = FConvDecoder(\n dictionary=task.target_dictionary,\n embed_dim=args.decoder_embed_dim,\n embed_dict=decoder_embed_dict,\n convolutions=eval(args.decoder_layers),\n out_embed_dim=args.decoder_out_embed_dim,\n attention=eval(args.decoder_attention),\n dropout=args.dropout,\n max_positions=args.max_target_positions,\n share_embed=args.share_input_output_embed,\n )\n return FConvModel(encoder, decoder)\n\n\nclass FConvEncoder(FairseqEncoder):\n \"\"\"\n Convolutional encoder consisting of `len(convolutions)` layers.\n\n Args:\n dictionary (~fairseq.data.Dictionary): encoding dictionary\n embed_dim (int, optional): embedding dimension\n embed_dict (str, optional): filename from which to load pre-trained\n embeddings\n max_positions (int, optional): maximum supported input sequence length\n convolutions (list, optional): the convolutional layer structure. Each\n list item `i` corresponds to convolutional layer `i`. Layers are\n given as ``(out_channels, kernel_width, [residual])``. Residual\n connections are added between layers when ``residual=1`` (which is\n the default behavior).\n dropout (float, optional): dropout to be applied before each conv layer\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self,\n dictionary,\n embed_dim=512,\n embed_dict=None,\n max_positions=1024,\n convolutions=((512, 3),) * 20,\n dropout=0.1,\n ):\n super().__init__(dictionary)\n self.dropout = dropout\n self.num_attention_layers = None\n\n num_embeddings = len(dictionary)\n self.padding_idx = dictionary.pad()\n self.embed_tokens = Embedding(num_embeddings, embed_dim, self.padding_idx)\n if embed_dict:\n self.embed_tokens = utils.load_embedding(\n embed_dict, self.dictionary, self.embed_tokens\n )\n\n self.embed_positions = PositionalEmbedding(\n max_positions, embed_dim, self.padding_idx,\n )\n\n convolutions = extend_conv_spec(convolutions)\n in_channels = convolutions[0][0]\n self.fc1 = Linear(embed_dim, in_channels, dropout=dropout)\n self.projections = nn.ModuleList()\n self.convolutions = nn.ModuleList()\n self.residuals = []\n\n layer_in_channels = [in_channels]\n for _, (out_channels, kernel_size, residual) in enumerate(convolutions):\n if residual == 0:\n residual_dim = out_channels\n else:\n residual_dim = layer_in_channels[-residual]\n self.projections.append(\n Linear(residual_dim, out_channels)\n if residual_dim != out_channels\n else None\n )\n if kernel_size % 2 == 1:\n padding = kernel_size // 2\n else:\n padding = 0\n self.convolutions.append(\n ConvTBC(\n in_channels,\n out_channels * 2,\n kernel_size,\n dropout=dropout,\n padding=padding,\n )\n )\n self.residuals.append(residual)\n in_channels = out_channels\n layer_in_channels.append(out_channels)\n self.fc2 = Linear(in_channels, embed_dim)\n\n def forward(self, src_tokens, src_lengths):\n \"\"\"\n Args:\n src_tokens (LongTensor): tokens in the source language of shape\n `(batch, src_len)`\n src_lengths (LongTensor): lengths of each source sentence of shape\n `(batch)`\n\n Returns:\n dict:\n - **encoder_out** (tuple): a tuple with two elements, where the\n first element is the last encoder layer's output and the\n second element is the same quantity summed with the input\n embedding (used for attention). The shape of both tensors is\n `(batch, src_len, embed_dim)`.\n - **encoder_padding_mask** (ByteTensor): the positions of\n padding elements of shape `(batch, src_len)`\n \"\"\"\n # embed tokens and positions\n x = self.embed_tokens(src_tokens) + self.embed_positions(src_tokens)\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n input_embedding = x\n\n # project to size of convolution\n x = self.fc1(x)\n\n # used to mask padding in input\n encoder_padding_mask = src_tokens.eq(self.padding_idx).t() # -> T x B\n if not encoder_padding_mask.any():\n encoder_padding_mask = None\n\n # B x T x C -> T x B x C\n x = x.transpose(0, 1)\n\n residuals = [x]\n # temporal convolutions\n for proj, conv, res_layer in zip(\n self.projections, self.convolutions, self.residuals\n ):\n if res_layer > 0:\n residual = residuals[-res_layer]\n residual = residual if proj is None else proj(residual)\n else:\n residual = None\n\n if encoder_padding_mask is not None:\n x = x.masked_fill(encoder_padding_mask.unsqueeze(-1), 0)\n\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n if conv.kernel_size[0] % 2 == 1:\n # padding is implicit in the conv\n x = conv(x)\n else:\n padding_l = (conv.kernel_size[0] - 1) // 2\n padding_r = conv.kernel_size[0] // 2\n x = F.pad(x, (0, 0, 0, 0, padding_l, padding_r))\n x = conv(x)\n x = F.glu(x, dim=2)\n\n if residual is not None:\n x = (x + residual) * math.sqrt(0.5)\n residuals.append(x)\n\n # T x B x C -> B x T x C\n x = x.transpose(1, 0)\n\n # project back to size of embedding\n x = self.fc2(x)\n\n if encoder_padding_mask is not None:\n encoder_padding_mask = encoder_padding_mask.t() # -> B x T\n x = x.masked_fill(encoder_padding_mask.unsqueeze(-1), 0)\n\n # scale gradients (this only affects backward, not forward)\n x = GradMultiply.apply(x, 1.0 / (2.0 * self.num_attention_layers))\n\n # add output to input embedding for attention\n y = (x + input_embedding) * math.sqrt(0.5)\n\n return {\n \"encoder_out\": (x, y),\n \"encoder_padding_mask\": encoder_padding_mask, # B x T\n }\n\n def reorder_encoder_out(self, encoder_out, new_order):\n if encoder_out[\"encoder_out\"] is not None:\n encoder_out[\"encoder_out\"] = (\n encoder_out[\"encoder_out\"][0].index_select(0, new_order),\n encoder_out[\"encoder_out\"][1].index_select(0, new_order),\n )\n if encoder_out[\"encoder_padding_mask\"] is not None:\n encoder_out[\"encoder_padding_mask\"] = encoder_out[\n \"encoder_padding_mask\"\n ].index_select(0, new_order)\n return encoder_out\n\n def max_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Maximum input length supported by the encoder.\"\"\"\n return self.embed_positions.max_positions()\n\n\nclass AttentionLayer(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, conv_channels, embed_dim, bmm=None):\n super().__init__()\n # projects from output of convolution to embedding dimension\n self.in_projection = Linear(conv_channels, embed_dim)\n # projects from embedding dimension to convolution size\n self.out_projection = Linear(embed_dim, conv_channels)\n\n self.bmm = bmm if bmm is not None else torch.bmm\n\n def forward(self, x, target_embedding, encoder_out, encoder_padding_mask):\n residual = x\n\n # attention\n x = (self.in_projection(x) + target_embedding) * math.sqrt(0.5)\n x = self.bmm(x, encoder_out[0])\n\n # don't attend over padding\n if encoder_padding_mask is not None:\n x = (\n x.float()\n .masked_fill(encoder_padding_mask.unsqueeze(1), float(\"-inf\"))\n .type_as(x)\n ) # FP16 support: cast to float and back\n\n # softmax over last dim\n sz = x.size()\n x = F.softmax(x.view(sz[0] * sz[1], sz[2]), dim=1)\n x = x.view(sz)\n attn_scores = x\n\n x = self.bmm(x, encoder_out[1])\n\n # scale attention output (respecting potentially different lengths)\n s = encoder_out[1].size(1)\n if encoder_padding_mask is None:\n x = x * (s * math.sqrt(1.0 / s))\n else:\n s = s - encoder_padding_mask.type_as(x).sum(\n dim=1, keepdim=True\n ) # exclude padding\n s = s.unsqueeze(-1)\n x = x * (s * s.rsqrt())\n\n # project back\n x = (self.out_projection(x) + residual) * math.sqrt(0.5)\n return x, attn_scores\n\n def make_generation_fast_(self, beamable_mm_beam_size=None, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Replace torch.bmm with BeamableMM.\"\"\"\n if beamable_mm_beam_size is not None:\n del self.bmm\n self.add_module(\"bmm\", BeamableMM(beamable_mm_beam_size))\n\n\nclass FConvDecoder(FairseqIncrementalDecoder):\n \"\"\"Convolutional decoder\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self,\n dictionary,\n embed_dim=512,\n embed_dict=None,\n out_embed_dim=256,\n max_positions=1024,\n convolutions=((512, 3),) * 20,\n attention=True,\n dropout=0.1,\n share_embed=False,\n positional_embeddings=True,\n adaptive_softmax_cutoff=None,\n adaptive_softmax_dropout=0,\n ):\n super().__init__(dictionary)\n self.register_buffer(\"version\", torch.Tensor([2]))\n self.dropout = dropout\n self.need_attn = True\n\n convolutions = extend_conv_spec(convolutions)\n in_channels = convolutions[0][0]\n if isinstance(attention, bool):\n # expand True into [True, True, ...] and do the same with False\n attention = [attention] * len(convolutions)\n if not isinstance(attention, list) or len(attention) != len(convolutions):\n raise ValueError(\n \"Attention is expected to be a list of booleans of \"\n \"length equal to the number of layers.\"\n )\n\n num_embeddings = len(dictionary)\n padding_idx = dictionary.pad()\n self.embed_tokens = Embedding(num_embeddings, embed_dim, padding_idx)\n if embed_dict:\n self.embed_tokens = utils.load_embedding(\n embed_dict, self.dictionary, self.embed_tokens\n )\n\n self.embed_positions = (\n PositionalEmbedding(max_positions, embed_dim, padding_idx,)\n if positional_embeddings\n else None\n )\n\n self.fc1 = Linear(embed_dim, in_channels, dropout=dropout)\n self.projections = nn.ModuleList()\n self.convolutions = nn.ModuleList()\n self.attention = nn.ModuleList()\n self.residuals = []\n\n layer_in_channels = [in_channels]\n for i, (out_channels, kernel_size, residual) in enumerate(convolutions):\n if residual == 0:\n residual_dim = out_channels\n else:\n residual_dim = layer_in_channels[-residual]\n self.projections.append(\n Linear(residual_dim, out_channels)\n if residual_dim != out_channels\n else None\n )\n self.convolutions.append(\n LinearizedConv1d(\n in_channels,\n out_channels * 2,\n kernel_size,\n padding=(kernel_size - 1),\n dropout=dropout,\n )\n )\n self.attention.append(\n AttentionLayer(out_channels, embed_dim) if attention[i] else None\n )\n self.residuals.append(residual)\n in_channels = out_channels\n layer_in_channels.append(out_channels)\n\n self.adaptive_softmax = None\n self.fc2 = self.fc3 = None\n\n if adaptive_softmax_cutoff is not None:\n assert not share_embed\n self.adaptive_softmax = AdaptiveSoftmax(\n num_embeddings,\n in_channels,\n adaptive_softmax_cutoff,\n dropout=adaptive_softmax_dropout,\n )\n else:\n self.fc2 = Linear(in_channels, out_embed_dim)\n if share_embed:\n assert out_embed_dim == embed_dim, (\n \"Shared embed weights implies same dimensions \"\n \" out_embed_dim={} vs embed_dim={}\".format(out_embed_dim, embed_dim)\n )\n self.fc3 = nn.Linear(out_embed_dim, num_embeddings)\n self.fc3.weight = self.embed_tokens.weight\n else:\n self.fc3 = Linear(out_embed_dim, num_embeddings, dropout=dropout)\n\n def forward(\n self, prev_output_tokens, encoder_out=None, incremental_state=None, **unused\n ):\n if encoder_out is not None:\n encoder_padding_mask = encoder_out[\"encoder_padding_mask\"]\n encoder_out = encoder_out[\"encoder_out\"]\n\n # split and transpose encoder outputs\n encoder_a, encoder_b = self._split_encoder_out(\n encoder_out, incremental_state\n )\n\n if self.embed_positions is not None:\n pos_embed = self.embed_positions(prev_output_tokens, incremental_state)\n else:\n pos_embed = 0\n\n if incremental_state is not None:\n prev_output_tokens = prev_output_tokens[:, -1:]\n x = self._embed_tokens(prev_output_tokens, incremental_state)\n\n # embed tokens and combine with positional embeddings\n x += pos_embed\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n target_embedding = x\n\n # project to size of convolution\n x = self.fc1(x)\n\n # B x T x C -> T x B x C\n x = self._transpose_if_training(x, incremental_state)\n\n # temporal convolutions\n avg_attn_scores = None\n num_attn_layers = len(self.attention)\n residuals = [x]\n for proj, conv, attention, res_layer in zip(\n self.projections, self.convolutions, self.attention, self.residuals\n ):\n if res_layer > 0:\n residual = residuals[-res_layer]\n residual = residual if proj is None else proj(residual)\n else:\n residual = None\n\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n x = conv(x, incremental_state)\n x = F.glu(x, dim=2)\n\n # attention\n if attention is not None:\n x = self._transpose_if_training(x, incremental_state)\n\n x, attn_scores = attention(\n x, target_embedding, (encoder_a, encoder_b), encoder_padding_mask\n )\n\n if not self.training and self.need_attn:\n attn_scores = attn_scores / num_attn_layers\n if avg_attn_scores is None:\n avg_attn_scores = attn_scores\n else:\n avg_attn_scores.add_(attn_scores)\n\n x = self._transpose_if_training(x, incremental_state)\n\n # residual\n if residual is not None:\n x = (x + residual) * math.sqrt(0.5)\n residuals.append(x)\n\n # T x B x C -> B x T x C\n x = self._transpose_if_training(x, incremental_state)\n\n # project back to size of vocabulary if not using adaptive softmax\n if self.fc2 is not None and self.fc3 is not None:\n x = self.fc2(x)\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n x = self.fc3(x)\n\n return x, avg_attn_scores\n\n def reorder_incremental_state(self, incremental_state, new_order):\n super().reorder_incremental_state(incremental_state, new_order)\n encoder_out = utils.get_incremental_state(\n self, incremental_state, \"encoder_out\"\n )\n if encoder_out is not None:\n encoder_out = tuple(eo.index_select(0, new_order) for eo in encoder_out)\n utils.set_incremental_state(\n self, incremental_state, \"encoder_out\", encoder_out\n )\n\n def max_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Maximum output length supported by the decoder.\"\"\"\n return (\n self.embed_positions.max_positions()\n if self.embed_positions is not None\n else float(\"inf\")\n )\n\n def upgrade_state_dict(self, state_dict):\n if utils.item(state_dict.get(\"decoder.version\", torch.Tensor([1]))[0]) < 2:\n # old models use incorrect weight norm dimension\n for i, conv in enumerate(self.convolutions):\n # reconfigure weight norm\n nn.utils.remove_weight_norm(conv)\n self.convolutions[i] = nn.utils.weight_norm(conv, dim=0)\n state_dict[\"decoder.version\"] = torch.Tensor([1])\n return state_dict\n\n def make_generation_fast_(self, need_attn=False, **kwargs):\n self.need_attn = need_attn\n\n def _embed_tokens(self, tokens, incremental_state):\n if incremental_state is not None:\n # keep only the last token for incremental forward pass\n tokens = tokens[:, -1:]\n return self.embed_tokens(tokens)\n\n def _split_encoder_out(self, encoder_out, incremental_state):\n \"\"\"Split and transpose encoder outputs.\n\n This is cached when doing incremental inference.\n \"\"\"\n cached_result = utils.get_incremental_state(\n self, incremental_state, \"encoder_out\"\n )\n if cached_result is not None:\n return cached_result\n\n # transpose only once to speed up attention layers\n encoder_a, encoder_b = encoder_out\n encoder_a = encoder_a.transpose(1, 2).contiguous()\n result = (encoder_a, encoder_b)\n\n if incremental_state is not None:\n utils.set_incremental_state(self, incremental_state, \"encoder_out\", result)\n return result\n\n def _transpose_if_training(self, x, incremental_state):\n if incremental_state is None:\n x = x.transpose(0, 1)\n return x\n\n\ndef extend_conv_spec(convolutions):\n \"\"\"\n Extends convolutional spec that is a list of tuples of 2 or 3 parameters\n (kernel size, dim size and optionally how many layers behind to look for residual)\n to default the residual propagation param if it is not specified\n \"\"\"\n extended = []\n for spec in convolutions:\n if len(spec) == 3:\n extended.append(spec)\n elif len(spec) == 2:\n extended.append(spec + (1,))\n else:\n raise Exception(\n \"invalid number of parameters in convolution spec \"\n + str(spec)\n + \". expected 2 or 3\"\n )\n return tuple(extended)\n\n\ndef Embedding(num_embeddings, embedding_dim, padding_idx):\n m = nn.Embedding(num_embeddings, embedding_dim, padding_idx=padding_idx)\n nn.init.normal_(m.weight, 0, 0.1)\n nn.init.constant_(m.weight[padding_idx], 0)\n return m\n\n\ndef PositionalEmbedding(num_embeddings, embedding_dim, padding_idx):\n m = LearnedPositionalEmbedding(num_embeddings, embedding_dim, padding_idx)\n nn.init.normal_(m.weight, 0, 0.1)\n nn.init.constant_(m.weight[padding_idx], 0)\n return m\n\n\ndef Linear(in_features, out_features, dropout=0):\n \"\"\"Weight-normalized Linear layer (input: N x T x C)\"\"\"\n m = nn.Linear(in_features, out_features)\n nn.init.normal_(m.weight, mean=0, std=math.sqrt((1 - dropout) / in_features))\n nn.init.constant_(m.bias, 0)\n return nn.utils.weight_norm(m)\n\n\ndef LinearizedConv1d(in_channels, out_channels, kernel_size, dropout=0, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Weight-normalized Conv1d layer optimized for decoding\"\"\"\n m = LinearizedConvolution(in_channels, out_channels, kernel_size, **kwargs)\n std = math.sqrt((4 * (1.0 - dropout)) / (m.kernel_size[0] * in_channels))\n nn.init.normal_(m.weight, mean=0, std=std)\n nn.init.constant_(m.bias, 0)\n return nn.utils.weight_norm(m, dim=2)\n\n\ndef ConvTBC(in_channels, out_channels, kernel_size, dropout=0, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Weight-normalized Conv1d layer\"\"\"\n from fairseq.modules import ConvTBC\n\n m = ConvTBC(in_channels, out_channels, kernel_size, **kwargs)\n std = math.sqrt((4 * (1.0 - dropout)) / (m.kernel_size[0] * in_channels))\n nn.init.normal_(m.weight, mean=0, std=std)\n nn.init.constant_(m.bias, 0)\n return nn.utils.weight_norm(m, dim=2)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"fconv\", \"fconv\")\ndef base_architecture(args):\n args.dropout = getattr(args, \"dropout\", 0.1)\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", 512)\n args.encoder_embed_path = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_path\", None)\n args.encoder_layers = getattr(args, \"encoder_layers\", \"[(512, 3)] * 20\")\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", 512)\n args.decoder_embed_path = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_path\", None)\n args.decoder_layers = getattr(args, \"decoder_layers\", \"[(512, 3)] * 20\")\n args.decoder_out_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_out_embed_dim\", 256)\n args.decoder_attention = getattr(args, \"decoder_attention\", \"True\")\n args.share_input_output_embed = getattr(args, \"share_input_output_embed\", False)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"fconv\", \"fconv_iwslt_de_en\")\ndef fconv_iwslt_de_en(args):\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", 256)\n args.encoder_layers = getattr(args, \"encoder_layers\", \"[(256, 3)] * 4\")\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", 256)\n args.decoder_layers = getattr(args, \"decoder_layers\", \"[(256, 3)] * 3\")\n args.decoder_out_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_out_embed_dim\", 256)\n base_architecture(args)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"fconv\", \"fconv_wmt_en_ro\")\ndef fconv_wmt_en_ro(args):\n args.decoder_out_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_out_embed_dim\", 512)\n base_architecture(args)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"fconv\", \"fconv_wmt_en_de\")\ndef fconv_wmt_en_de(args):\n convs = \"[(512, 3)] * 9\" # first 9 layers have 512 units\n convs += \" + [(1024, 3)] * 4\" # next 4 layers have 1024 units\n convs += \" + [(2048, 1)] * 2\" # final 2 layers use 1x1 convolutions\n\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", 768)\n args.encoder_layers = getattr(args, \"encoder_layers\", convs)\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", 768)\n args.decoder_layers = getattr(args, \"decoder_layers\", convs)\n args.decoder_out_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_out_embed_dim\", 512)\n base_architecture(args)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"fconv\", \"fconv_wmt_en_fr\")\ndef fconv_wmt_en_fr(args):\n convs = \"[(512, 3)] * 6\" # first 6 layers have 512 units\n convs += \" + [(768, 3)] * 4\" # next 4 layers have 768 units\n convs += \" + [(1024, 3)] * 3\" # next 3 layers have 1024 units\n convs += \" + [(2048, 1)] * 1\" # next 1 layer uses 1x1 convolutions\n convs += \" + [(4096, 1)] * 1\" # final 1 layer uses 1x1 convolutions\n\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", 768)\n args.encoder_layers = getattr(args, \"encoder_layers\", convs)\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", 768)\n args.decoder_layers = getattr(args, \"decoder_layers\", convs)\n args.decoder_out_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_out_embed_dim\", 512)\n base_architecture(args)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/fconv_lm.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom fairseq import options\nfrom fairseq.models import (\n FairseqLanguageModel,\n register_model,\n register_model_architecture,\n)\nfrom fairseq.models.fconv import FConvDecoder\n\n\n@register_model(\"fconv_lm\")\nclass FConvLanguageModel(FairseqLanguageModel):\n def __init__(self, decoder):\n super().__init__(decoder)\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add model-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--dropout\", type=float, metavar=\"D\", help=\"dropout probability\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--decoder-embed-dim\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"decoder embedding dimension\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--decoder-layers\",\n type=str,\n metavar=\"EXPR\",\n help=\"decoder layers [(dim, kernel_size), ...]\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--decoder-out-embed-dim\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"decoder output embedding dimension\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--adaptive-softmax-cutoff\",\n metavar=\"EXPR\",\n help=\"comma separated list of adaptive softmax cutoff points. \"\n \"Must be used with adaptive_loss criterion\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--adaptive-softmax-dropout\",\n type=float,\n metavar=\"D\",\n help=\"sets adaptive softmax dropout for the tail projections\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--decoder-attention\",\n type=str,\n metavar=\"EXPR\",\n help=\"decoder attention [True, ...]\",\n )\n\n @classmethod\n def build_model(cls, args, task):\n \"\"\"Build a new model instance.\"\"\"\n # make sure all arguments are present in older models\n base_lm_architecture(args)\n\n if hasattr(args, \"max_target_positions\") and not hasattr(\n args, \"tokens_per_sample\"\n ):\n args.tokens_per_sample = args.max_target_positions\n\n decoder = FConvDecoder(\n dictionary=task.target_dictionary,\n embed_dim=args.decoder_embed_dim,\n convolutions=eval(args.decoder_layers),\n out_embed_dim=args.decoder_embed_dim,\n attention=eval(args.decoder_attention),\n dropout=args.dropout,\n max_positions=args.tokens_per_sample,\n share_embed=False,\n positional_embeddings=False,\n adaptive_softmax_cutoff=(\n options.eval_str_list(args.adaptive_softmax_cutoff, type=int)\n if args.criterion == \"adaptive_loss\"\n else None\n ),\n adaptive_softmax_dropout=args.adaptive_softmax_dropout,\n )\n return FConvLanguageModel(decoder)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"fconv_lm\", \"fconv_lm\")\ndef base_lm_architecture(args):\n args.dropout = getattr(args, \"dropout\", 0.1)\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", 128)\n args.decoder_layers = getattr(args, \"decoder_layers\", \"[(1268, 4)] * 13\")\n args.decoder_attention = getattr(args, \"decoder_attention\", \"False\")\n args.adaptive_softmax_cutoff = getattr(args, \"adaptive_softmax_cutoff\", None)\n args.adaptive_softmax_dropout = getattr(args, \"adaptive_softmax_dropout\", 0)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"fconv_lm\", \"fconv_lm_dauphin_wikitext103\")\ndef fconv_lm_dauphin_wikitext103(args):\n layers = \"[(850, 6)] * 3\"\n layers += \" + [(850, 1)] * 1\"\n layers += \" + [(850, 5)] * 4\"\n layers += \" + [(850, 1)] * 1\"\n layers += \" + [(850, 4)] * 3\"\n layers += \" + [(1024, 4)] * 1\"\n layers += \" + [(2048, 4)] * 1\"\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", 280)\n args.decoder_layers = getattr(args, \"decoder_layers\", layers)\n args.decoder_attention = getattr(args, \"decoder_attention\", \"False\")\n args.adaptive_softmax_cutoff = getattr(\n args, \"adaptive_softmax_cutoff\", \"10000,20000,200000\"\n )\n base_lm_architecture(args)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"fconv_lm\", \"fconv_lm_dauphin_gbw\")\ndef fconv_lm_dauphin_gbw(args):\n layers = \"[(512, 5)]\"\n layers += \" + [(128, 1, 0), (128, 5, 0), (512, 1, 3)] * 3\"\n layers += \" + [(512, 1, 0), (512, 5, 0), (1024, 1, 3)] * 3\"\n layers += \" + [(1024, 1, 0), (1024, 5, 0), (2048, 1, 3)] * 6\"\n layers += \" + [(1024, 1, 0), (1024, 5, 0), (4096, 1, 3)]\"\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", 128)\n args.decoder_layers = getattr(args, \"decoder_layers\", layers)\n args.decoder_attention = getattr(args, \"decoder_attention\", \"False\")\n args.adaptive_softmax_cutoff = getattr(\n args, \"adaptive_softmax_cutoff\", \"10000,50000,200000\"\n )\n base_lm_architecture(args)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/fconv_self_att.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport math\nimport os\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn as nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom fairseq import checkpoint_utils\nfrom fairseq.models import (\n CompositeEncoder,\n FairseqDecoder,\n FairseqEncoder,\n FairseqEncoderDecoderModel,\n register_model,\n register_model_architecture,\n)\nfrom fairseq.modules import (\n DownsampledMultiHeadAttention,\n GradMultiply,\n LayerNorm,\n LearnedPositionalEmbedding,\n LinearizedConvolution,\n)\n\n\n@register_model(\"fconv_self_att\")\nclass FConvModelSelfAtt(FairseqEncoderDecoderModel):\n @classmethod\n def hub_models(cls):\n return {\n \"conv.stories.pretrained\": {\n \"path\": \"https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/stories_checkpoint.tar.gz\",\n \"checkpoint_file\": \"pretrained_checkpoint.pt\",\n \"tokenizer\": \"nltk\",\n },\n \"conv.stories\": {\n \"path\": \"https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/stories_checkpoint.tar.gz\",\n \"checkpoint_file\": \"fusion_checkpoint.pt\",\n \"tokenizer\": \"nltk\",\n \"pretrained\": \"True\",\n \"pretrained_checkpoint\": \"./pretrained_checkpoint.pt\",\n },\n # Test set containing dictionaries\n \"data.stories\": \"https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/data/stories_test.tar.bz2\",\n }\n\n def __init__(self, encoder, decoder, pretrained_encoder=None):\n super().__init__(encoder, decoder)\n self.encoder.num_attention_layers = sum(\n layer is not None for layer in decoder.attention\n )\n self.pretrained_encoder = pretrained_encoder\n if self.pretrained_encoder is None:\n encoders = {\"encoder\": encoder}\n else:\n encoders = {\"encoder\": encoder, \"pretrained\": self.pretrained_encoder}\n # for fusion model, CompositeEncoder contains both pretrained and training encoders\n # these are forwarded and then combined in the decoder\n self.encoder = CompositeEncoder(encoders)\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add model-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument('--dropout', type=float, metavar='D',\n help='dropout probability')\n parser.add_argument('--encoder-embed-dim', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='encoder embedding dimension')\n parser.add_argument('--encoder-layers', type=str, metavar='EXPR',\n help='encoder layers [(dim, kernel_size), ...]')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-embed-dim', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='decoder embedding dimension')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-layers', type=str, metavar='EXPR',\n help='decoder layers [(dim, kernel_size), ...]')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-out-embed-dim', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='decoder output embedding dimension')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-attention', type=str, metavar='EXPR',\n help='decoder attention [True, ...]')\n parser.add_argument('--self-attention', type=str, metavar='EXPR',\n help='decoder self-attention layers, ex: [True] + [False]*5')\n parser.add_argument('--multihead-attention-nheads', type=int,\n help='Number of heads to use in attention')\n parser.add_argument('--multihead-self-attention-nheads', type=int,\n help='Number of heads to use in self-attention')\n parser.add_argument('--encoder-attention', type=str, metavar='EXPR',\n help='encoder attention [True, ...]')\n parser.add_argument('--encoder-attention-nheads', type=int,\n help='Number of heads to use in encoder attention')\n parser.add_argument('--project-input', type=str, metavar='EXPR',\n help='Use projections in self-attention [True, ...]')\n parser.add_argument('--gated-attention', type=str, metavar='EXPR',\n help='Use GLU layers in self-attention projections [True, ...]')\n parser.add_argument('--downsample', type=str, metavar='EXPR',\n help='Use downsampling in self-attention [True, ...]')\n parser.add_argument('--pretrained-checkpoint', metavar='DIR',\n help='path to load checkpoint from pretrained model')\n parser.add_argument('--pretrained', type=str, metavar='EXPR',\n help='use pretrained model when training [True, ...]')\n # fmt: on\n\n @classmethod\n def build_model(cls, args, task):\n \"\"\"Build a new model instance.\"\"\"\n trained_encoder, trained_decoder = None, None\n pretrained = eval(args.pretrained)\n if pretrained:\n print(\"| loading pretrained model\")\n if not os.path.exists(args.pretrained_checkpoint):\n new_pretrained_checkpoint = os.path.join(\n args.data, args.pretrained_checkpoint\n )\n if os.path.exists(new_pretrained_checkpoint):\n args.pretrained_checkpoint = new_pretrained_checkpoint\n trained_model = checkpoint_utils.load_model_ensemble(\n filenames=[args.pretrained_checkpoint], task=task,\n )[0][0]\n trained_decoder = list(trained_model.children())[1]\n trained_encoder = list(trained_model.children())[0]\n\n # freeze pretrained model\n for param in trained_decoder.parameters():\n param.requires_grad = False\n for param in trained_encoder.parameters():\n param.requires_grad = False\n\n encoder = FConvEncoder(\n task.source_dictionary,\n embed_dim=args.encoder_embed_dim,\n convolutions=eval(args.encoder_layers),\n dropout=args.dropout,\n max_positions=args.max_source_positions,\n attention=eval(args.encoder_attention),\n attention_nheads=args.encoder_attention_nheads,\n )\n\n decoder = FConvDecoder(\n task.target_dictionary,\n embed_dim=args.decoder_embed_dim,\n convolutions=eval(args.decoder_layers),\n out_embed_dim=args.decoder_out_embed_dim,\n attention=eval(args.decoder_attention),\n dropout=args.dropout,\n max_positions=args.max_target_positions,\n selfattention=eval(args.self_attention),\n attention_nheads=args.multihead_attention_nheads,\n selfattention_nheads=args.multihead_self_attention_nheads,\n project_input=eval(args.project_input),\n gated_attention=eval(args.gated_attention),\n downsample=eval(args.downsample),\n pretrained=pretrained,\n trained_decoder=trained_decoder,\n )\n model = FConvModelSelfAtt(encoder, decoder, trained_encoder)\n\n return model\n\n @property\n def pretrained(self):\n return self.pretrained_encoder is not None\n\n\nclass FConvEncoder(FairseqEncoder):\n \"\"\"Convolutional encoder\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self,\n dictionary,\n embed_dim=512,\n max_positions=1024,\n convolutions=((512, 3),) * 20,\n dropout=0.1,\n attention=False,\n attention_nheads=1,\n ):\n super().__init__(dictionary)\n self.dropout = dropout\n self.num_attention_layers = None\n\n num_embeddings = len(dictionary)\n self.padding_idx = dictionary.pad()\n self.embed_tokens = Embedding(num_embeddings, embed_dim, self.padding_idx)\n self.embed_positions = PositionalEmbedding(\n max_positions, embed_dim, self.padding_idx,\n )\n\n def expand_bool_array(val):\n if isinstance(val, bool):\n # expand True into [True, True, ...] and do the same with False\n return [val] * len(convolutions)\n return val\n\n attention = expand_bool_array(attention)\n\n in_channels = convolutions[0][0]\n self.fc1 = Linear(embed_dim, in_channels, dropout=dropout)\n self.projections = nn.ModuleList()\n self.convolutions = nn.ModuleList()\n self.attention = nn.ModuleList()\n self.attproj = nn.ModuleList()\n for i, (out_channels, kernel_size) in enumerate(convolutions):\n self.projections.append(\n Linear(in_channels, out_channels)\n if in_channels != out_channels\n else None\n )\n self.convolutions.append(\n ConvTBC(in_channels, out_channels * 2, kernel_size, dropout=dropout)\n )\n\n self.attention.append(\n SelfAttention(out_channels, embed_dim, attention_nheads)\n if attention[i]\n else None\n )\n in_channels = out_channels\n\n self.fc2 = Linear(in_channels, embed_dim)\n\n def forward(self, src_tokens, src_lengths):\n # embed tokens and positions\n x = self.embed_tokens(src_tokens) + self.embed_positions(src_tokens)\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n input_embedding = x.transpose(0, 1)\n\n # project to size of convolution\n x = self.fc1(x)\n\n encoder_padding_mask = src_tokens.eq(self.padding_idx).t() # -> T x B\n if not encoder_padding_mask.any():\n encoder_padding_mask = None\n\n # B x T x C -> T x B x C\n x = x.transpose(0, 1)\n\n # temporal convolutions\n for proj, conv, attention in zip(\n self.projections, self.convolutions, self.attention\n ):\n residual = x if proj is None else proj(x)\n\n if encoder_padding_mask is not None:\n x = x.masked_fill(encoder_padding_mask.unsqueeze(-1), 0)\n\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n padding_l = (conv.kernel_size[0] - 1) // 2\n padding_r = conv.kernel_size[0] // 2\n x = F.pad(x, (0, 0, 0, 0, padding_l, padding_r))\n x = conv(x)\n x = F.glu(x, dim=2)\n if attention is not None:\n x = attention(x)\n x = (x + residual) * math.sqrt(0.5)\n\n # T x B x C -> B x T x C\n x = x.transpose(1, 0)\n\n # project back to size of embedding\n x = self.fc2(x)\n\n if encoder_padding_mask is not None:\n encoder_padding_mask = encoder_padding_mask.t() # -> B x T\n x = x.masked_fill(encoder_padding_mask.unsqueeze(-1), 0)\n\n # scale gradients (this only affects backward, not forward)\n x = GradMultiply.apply(x, 1.0 / (2.0 * self.num_attention_layers))\n\n # add output to input embedding for attention\n y = (x + input_embedding.transpose(0, 1)) * math.sqrt(0.5)\n\n return {\n \"encoder_out\": (x, y),\n \"encoder_padding_mask\": encoder_padding_mask, # B x T\n }\n\n def reorder_encoder_out(self, encoder_out, new_order):\n encoder_out[\"encoder_out\"] = tuple(\n eo.index_select(0, new_order) for eo in encoder_out[\"encoder_out\"]\n )\n\n if encoder_out[\"encoder_padding_mask\"] is not None:\n encoder_out[\"encoder_padding_mask\"] = encoder_out[\n \"encoder_padding_mask\"\n ].index_select(0, new_order)\n\n if \"pretrained\" in encoder_out:\n encoder_out[\"pretrained\"][\"encoder_out\"] = tuple(\n eo.index_select(0, new_order)\n for eo in encoder_out[\"pretrained\"][\"encoder_out\"]\n )\n\n return encoder_out\n\n def max_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Maximum input length supported by the encoder.\"\"\"\n return self.embed_positions.max_positions()\n\n\nclass FConvDecoder(FairseqDecoder):\n \"\"\"Convolutional decoder\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self,\n dictionary,\n embed_dim=512,\n out_embed_dim=256,\n max_positions=1024,\n convolutions=((512, 3),) * 8,\n attention=True,\n dropout=0.1,\n selfattention=False,\n attention_nheads=1,\n selfattention_nheads=1,\n project_input=False,\n gated_attention=False,\n downsample=False,\n pretrained=False,\n trained_decoder=None,\n ):\n super().__init__(dictionary)\n self.register_buffer(\"version\", torch.Tensor([2]))\n self.pretrained = pretrained\n self.pretrained_decoder = trained_decoder\n self.dropout = dropout\n self.need_attn = True\n in_channels = convolutions[0][0]\n\n def expand_bool_array(val):\n if isinstance(val, bool):\n # expand True into [True, True, ...] and do the same with False\n return [val] * len(convolutions)\n return val\n\n attention = expand_bool_array(attention)\n selfattention = expand_bool_array(selfattention)\n\n if not isinstance(attention, list) or len(attention) != len(convolutions):\n raise ValueError(\n \"Attention is expected to be a list of booleans of \"\n \"length equal to the number of layers.\"\n )\n\n num_embeddings = len(dictionary)\n padding_idx = dictionary.pad()\n self.embed_tokens = Embedding(num_embeddings, embed_dim, padding_idx)\n\n self.embed_positions = PositionalEmbedding(\n max_positions, embed_dim, padding_idx,\n )\n\n self.fc1 = Linear(embed_dim, in_channels, dropout=dropout)\n self.projections = nn.ModuleList()\n self.convolutions = nn.ModuleList()\n self.attention = nn.ModuleList()\n self.selfattention = nn.ModuleList()\n self.attproj = nn.ModuleList()\n for i, (out_channels, kernel_size) in enumerate(convolutions):\n self.projections.append(\n Linear(in_channels, out_channels)\n if in_channels != out_channels\n else None\n )\n self.convolutions.append(\n LinearizedConv1d(\n in_channels,\n out_channels * 2,\n kernel_size,\n padding=(kernel_size - 1),\n dropout=dropout,\n )\n )\n\n self.attention.append(\n DownsampledMultiHeadAttention(\n out_channels,\n embed_dim,\n attention_nheads,\n project_input=project_input,\n gated=False,\n downsample=False,\n )\n if attention[i]\n else None\n )\n\n self.attproj.append(\n Linear(out_channels, embed_dim, dropout=dropout)\n if attention[i]\n else None\n )\n self.selfattention.append(\n SelfAttention(\n out_channels,\n embed_dim,\n selfattention_nheads,\n project_input=project_input,\n gated=gated_attention,\n downsample=downsample,\n )\n if selfattention[i]\n else None\n )\n in_channels = out_channels\n\n self.fc2 = Linear(in_channels, out_embed_dim)\n self.fc3 = Linear(out_embed_dim, num_embeddings, dropout=dropout)\n\n # model fusion\n if self.pretrained:\n # independent gates are learned from the concatenated input\n self.gate1 = nn.Sequential(\n Linear(out_embed_dim * 2, out_embed_dim), nn.Sigmoid()\n )\n self.gate2 = nn.Sequential(\n Linear(out_embed_dim * 2, out_embed_dim), nn.Sigmoid()\n )\n # pretrained and trained models are joined\n self.joining = nn.Sequential(\n Linear(out_embed_dim * 2, out_embed_dim * 2),\n LayerNorm(out_embed_dim * 2),\n nn.GLU(),\n Linear(out_embed_dim, out_embed_dim * 2),\n LayerNorm(out_embed_dim * 2),\n nn.GLU(),\n Linear(out_embed_dim, out_embed_dim),\n LayerNorm(out_embed_dim),\n )\n # pretrained model contains an output layer that is nhid -> vocab size\n # but the models are combined in their hidden state\n # the hook stores the output of the pretrained model forward\n self.pretrained_outputs = {}\n\n def save_output():\n def hook(a, b, output):\n self.pretrained_outputs[\"out\"] = output\n\n return hook\n\n self.pretrained_decoder.fc2.register_forward_hook(save_output())\n\n def forward(self, prev_output_tokens, encoder_out):\n trained_encoder_out = encoder_out[\"pretrained\"] if self.pretrained else None\n encoder_out = encoder_out[\"encoder\"][\"encoder_out\"]\n\n encoder_a, encoder_b = self._split_encoder_out(encoder_out)\n\n # embed positions\n positions = self.embed_positions(prev_output_tokens)\n\n # embed tokens and positions\n x = self.embed_tokens(prev_output_tokens) + positions\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n target_embedding = x.transpose(0, 1)\n\n # project to size of convolution\n x = self.fc1(x)\n\n # B x T x C -> T x B x C\n x = x.transpose(0, 1)\n\n # temporal convolutions\n avg_attn_scores = None\n for proj, conv, attention, selfattention, attproj in zip(\n self.projections,\n self.convolutions,\n self.attention,\n self.selfattention,\n self.attproj,\n ):\n residual = x if proj is None else proj(x)\n\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n x = conv(x)\n x = F.glu(x, dim=2)\n\n # attention\n if attention is not None:\n r = x\n x, attn_scores = attention(\n attproj(x) + target_embedding, encoder_a, encoder_b\n )\n x = x + r\n if not self.training and self.need_attn:\n if avg_attn_scores is None:\n avg_attn_scores = attn_scores\n else:\n avg_attn_scores.add_(attn_scores)\n\n if selfattention is not None:\n x = selfattention(x)\n\n x = (x + residual) * math.sqrt(0.5)\n\n # T x B x C -> B x T x C\n x = x.transpose(0, 1)\n\n # project back to size of vocabulary\n x = self.fc2(x)\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n if not self.pretrained:\n x = self.fc3(x)\n\n # fusion gating\n if self.pretrained:\n trained_x, _ = self.pretrained_decoder.forward(\n prev_output_tokens, trained_encoder_out\n )\n y = torch.cat([x, self.pretrained_outputs[\"out\"]], dim=-1)\n gate1 = self.gate1(y)\n gate2 = self.gate2(y)\n gated_x1 = gate1 * x\n gated_x2 = gate2 * self.pretrained_outputs[\"out\"]\n fusion = torch.cat([gated_x1, gated_x2], dim=-1)\n fusion = self.joining(fusion)\n fusion_output = self.fc3(fusion)\n return fusion_output, avg_attn_scores\n else:\n return x, avg_attn_scores\n\n def max_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Maximum output length supported by the decoder.\"\"\"\n return self.embed_positions.max_positions()\n\n def make_generation_fast_(self, need_attn=False, **kwargs):\n self.need_attn = need_attn\n\n def _split_encoder_out(self, encoder_out):\n \"\"\"Split and transpose encoder outputs.\"\"\"\n # transpose only once to speed up attention layers\n encoder_a, encoder_b = encoder_out\n encoder_a = encoder_a.transpose(0, 1).contiguous()\n encoder_b = encoder_b.transpose(0, 1).contiguous()\n result = (encoder_a, encoder_b)\n return result\n\n\nclass SelfAttention(nn.Module):\n def __init__(\n self,\n out_channels,\n embed_dim,\n num_heads,\n project_input=False,\n gated=False,\n downsample=False,\n ):\n super().__init__()\n self.attention = DownsampledMultiHeadAttention(\n out_channels,\n embed_dim,\n num_heads,\n dropout=0,\n bias=True,\n project_input=project_input,\n gated=gated,\n downsample=downsample,\n )\n self.in_proj_q = Linear(out_channels, embed_dim)\n self.in_proj_k = Linear(out_channels, embed_dim)\n self.in_proj_v = Linear(out_channels, embed_dim)\n self.ln = LayerNorm(out_channels)\n\n def forward(self, x):\n residual = x\n query = self.in_proj_q(x)\n key = self.in_proj_k(x)\n value = self.in_proj_v(x)\n x, _ = self.attention(\n query, key, value, mask_future_timesteps=True, use_scalar_bias=True\n )\n return self.ln(x + residual)\n\n\ndef Embedding(num_embeddings, embedding_dim, padding_idx):\n m = nn.Embedding(num_embeddings, embedding_dim, padding_idx=padding_idx)\n m.weight.data.normal_(0, 0.1)\n return m\n\n\ndef PositionalEmbedding(num_embeddings, embedding_dim, padding_idx):\n m = LearnedPositionalEmbedding(num_embeddings, embedding_dim, padding_idx)\n m.weight.data.normal_(0, 0.1)\n return m\n\n\ndef Linear(in_features, out_features, dropout=0.0):\n \"\"\"Weight-normalized Linear layer (input: N x T x C)\"\"\"\n m = nn.Linear(in_features, out_features)\n m.weight.data.normal_(mean=0, std=math.sqrt((1 - dropout) / in_features))\n m.bias.data.zero_()\n return m\n\n\ndef LinearizedConv1d(in_channels, out_channels, kernel_size, dropout=0.0, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Weight-normalized Conv1d layer optimized for decoding\"\"\"\n m = LinearizedConvolution(in_channels, out_channels, kernel_size, **kwargs)\n std = math.sqrt((4 * (1.0 - dropout)) / (m.kernel_size[0] * in_channels))\n m.weight.data.normal_(mean=0, std=std)\n m.bias.data.zero_()\n return m\n\n\ndef ConvTBC(in_channels, out_channels, kernel_size, dropout=0, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Weight-normalized Conv1d layer\"\"\"\n from fairseq.modules import ConvTBC\n\n m = ConvTBC(in_channels, out_channels, kernel_size, **kwargs)\n std = math.sqrt((4 * (1.0 - dropout)) / (m.kernel_size[0] * in_channels))\n m.weight.data.normal_(mean=0, std=std)\n m.bias.data.zero_()\n return m\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"fconv_self_att\", \"fconv_self_att\")\ndef base_architecture(args):\n args.dropout = getattr(args, \"dropout\", 0.1)\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", 512)\n args.encoder_layers = getattr(args, \"encoder_layers\", \"[(512, 3)] * 3\")\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", 512)\n args.decoder_layers = getattr(args, \"decoder_layers\", \"[(512, 3)] * 8\")\n args.decoder_out_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_out_embed_dim\", 256)\n args.decoder_attention = getattr(args, \"decoder_attention\", \"True\")\n args.self_attention = getattr(args, \"self_attention\", \"False\")\n args.encoder_attention = getattr(args, \"encoder_attention\", \"False\")\n args.multihead_attention_nheads = getattr(args, \"multihead_attention_nheads\", 1)\n args.multihead_self_attention_nheads = getattr(\n args, \"multihead_self_attention_nheads\", 1\n )\n args.encoder_attention_nheads = getattr(args, \"encoder_attention_nheads\", 1)\n args.project_input = getattr(args, \"project_input\", \"False\")\n args.gated_attention = getattr(args, \"gated_attention\", \"False\")\n args.downsample = getattr(args, \"downsample\", \"False\")\n args.pretrained_checkpoint = getattr(args, \"pretrained_checkpoint\", \"\")\n args.pretrained = getattr(args, \"pretrained\", \"False\")\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"fconv_self_att\", \"fconv_self_att_wp\")\ndef fconv_self_att_wp(args):\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", 256)\n args.encoder_layers = getattr(\n args, \"encoder_layers\", \"[(128, 3)] * 2 + [(512,3)] * 1\"\n )\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", 256)\n args.decoder_layers = getattr(\n args, \"decoder_layers\", \"[(512, 4)] * 4 + [(768, 4)] * 2 + [(1024, 4)] * 1\"\n )\n args.decoder_out_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_out_embed_dim\", 256)\n args.self_attention = getattr(args, \"self_attention\", \"True\")\n args.multihead_self_attention_nheads = getattr(\n args, \"multihead_self_attention_nheads\", 4\n )\n args.project_input = getattr(args, \"project_input\", \"True\")\n args.gated_attention = getattr(args, \"gated_attention\", \"True\")\n args.downsample = getattr(args, \"downsample\", \"True\")\n base_architecture(args)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/insertion_transformer.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom fairseq.models import register_model, register_model_architecture\nfrom fairseq.models.levenshtein_transformer import (\n LevenshteinTransformerDecoder,\n LevenshteinTransformerModel,\n)\nfrom fairseq.models.transformer import Linear, TransformerModel\nfrom fairseq.modules.transformer_sentence_encoder import init_bert_params\nfrom fairseq.utils import new_arange\n\n\nclass NegativeDistanceScore(object):\n def __init__(self):\n\n # pre-compute some values\n self.scores = {}\n\n self.scores[0.5] = self.compute_score_full(50, 0.5)\n self.scores[1.0] = self.compute_score_full(50, 1.0)\n self.scores[2.0] = self.compute_score_full(50, 2.0)\n\n def __call__(self, i, L, tau):\n if (tau is None) or (tau > 1000):\n return 1 / L\n\n if tau in self.scores:\n if L < self.scores[tau].shape[0]:\n return self.scores[tau][L - 1, i]\n return self.compute_score(L, tau)[i]\n\n def compute_score(self, L, tau):\n s = np.array([-abs(L / 2 - i) / tau for i in range(L)])\n s = np.exp(s - s.max())\n return s / s.sum()\n\n def compute_score_full(self, L, tau):\n s = -abs(np.arange(0, L - 1)[:, None] / 2 - np.arange(L)[None, :]) / tau\n s = np.tril(s, 0) + np.triu(s - float(\"inf\"), 1)\n s = np.exp(s - s.max(1, keepdims=True))\n return s / s.sum(1, keepdims=True)\n\n\nneg_scorer = NegativeDistanceScore()\n\n\ndef _get_ins_targets(in_tokens, out_tokens, padding_idx, unk_idx, vocab_size, tau=None):\n try:\n from fairseq import libnat\n except ImportError as e:\n import sys\n\n sys.stderr.write(\"ERROR: missing libnat. run `pip install --editable .`\\n\")\n raise e\n\n B = in_tokens.size(0)\n T = in_tokens.size(1)\n V = vocab_size\n\n with torch.cuda.device_of(in_tokens):\n in_tokens_list = [\n [t for t in s if t != padding_idx] for i, s in enumerate(in_tokens.tolist())\n ]\n out_tokens_list = [\n [t for t in s if t != padding_idx]\n for i, s in enumerate(out_tokens.tolist())\n ]\n\n full_labels = libnat.suggested_ed2_path(\n in_tokens_list, out_tokens_list, padding_idx\n )\n insert_labels = [a[:-1] for a in full_labels]\n\n # numericalize1\n insert_label_tensors = in_tokens.new_zeros(B * (T - 1) * V).float()\n insert_index, insert_labels = zip(\n *[\n (w + (j + i * (T - 1)) * V, neg_scorer(k, len(label), tau))\n for i, labels in enumerate(insert_labels)\n for j, label in enumerate(labels[1:-1])\n for k, w in enumerate(label)\n ]\n ) # HACK 1:-1\n insert_index, insert_labels = [\n torch.tensor(list(a), device=in_tokens.device)\n for a in [insert_index, insert_labels]\n ]\n insert_label_tensors.scatter_(0, insert_index.long(), insert_labels)\n insert_label_tensors = insert_label_tensors.view(B, T - 1, V)\n\n return insert_label_tensors\n\n\ndef _apply_ins_words(in_tokens, in_scores, word_ins_pred, word_ins_scores, padding_idx):\n\n padding_masks = in_tokens[:, 1:].eq(padding_idx)\n word_ins_scores.masked_fill_(padding_masks, 0.0)\n word_ins_pred.masked_fill_(padding_masks, padding_idx)\n\n in_coords = new_arange(in_tokens).type_as(in_scores)\n\n # shift all padding predictions to infinite\n out_coords = (in_coords[:, 1:] - 0.5).masked_fill(\n word_ins_pred.eq(padding_idx), float(\"inf\")\n )\n out_coords = torch.cat([in_coords, out_coords], 1).sort(-1)[1]\n out_tokens = torch.cat([in_tokens, word_ins_pred], 1).gather(1, out_coords)\n out_scores = torch.cat([in_scores, word_ins_scores], 1).gather(1, out_coords)\n return out_tokens, out_scores\n\n\n@register_model(\"insertion_transformer\")\nclass InsertionTransformerModel(LevenshteinTransformerModel):\n def __init__(self, args, encoder, decoder):\n super().__init__(args, encoder, decoder)\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n TransformerModel.add_args(parser)\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--apply-bert-init\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"use custom param initialization for BERT\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\"--label-tau\", default=None, type=float)\n\n @classmethod\n def build_decoder(cls, args, tgt_dict, embed_tokens):\n decoder = InsertionTransformerDecoder(args, tgt_dict, embed_tokens)\n if getattr(args, \"apply_bert_init\", False):\n decoder.apply(init_bert_params)\n return decoder\n\n def forward(\n self, src_tokens, src_lengths, prev_output_tokens, tgt_tokens, **kwargs\n ):\n\n assert tgt_tokens is not None, \"forward function only supports training.\"\n\n # encoding\n encoder_out = self.encoder(src_tokens, src_lengths=src_lengths, **kwargs)\n\n # generate training labels for insertion\n word_ins_out = self.decoder.forward_word_ins(\n prev_output_tokens, encoder_out=encoder_out\n )\n word_ins_tgt = _get_ins_targets(\n prev_output_tokens,\n tgt_tokens,\n self.pad,\n self.unk,\n len(self.tgt_dict),\n tau=self.decoder.label_tau,\n ).type_as(word_ins_out)\n word_ins_masks = prev_output_tokens[:, 1:].ne(self.pad)\n\n return {\n \"word_ins\": {\n \"out\": word_ins_out,\n \"tgt\": word_ins_tgt,\n \"mask\": word_ins_masks,\n \"ls\": self.args.label_smoothing,\n \"nll_loss\": True,\n }\n }\n\n def forward_decoder(\n self, decoder_out, encoder_out, eos_penalty=0.0, max_ratio=None, **kwargs\n ):\n\n output_tokens = decoder_out.output_tokens\n output_scores = decoder_out.output_scores\n history = decoder_out.history\n\n # TODO: decoding for InsertionTransformer\n word_ins_out = self.decoder.forward_word_ins(\n output_tokens, encoder_out=encoder_out\n )\n word_ins_score = F.log_softmax(word_ins_out, 2)\n if eos_penalty > 0.0:\n word_ins_score[:, :, self.pad] -= eos_penalty\n word_ins_score, word_ins_pred = word_ins_score.max(-1)\n output_tokens, output_scores = _apply_ins_words(\n output_tokens, output_scores, word_ins_pred, word_ins_score, self.pad\n )\n\n # delete some unnecessary paddings\n cut_off = output_tokens.ne(self.pad).sum(1).max()\n output_tokens = output_tokens[:, :cut_off]\n output_scores = output_scores[:, :cut_off]\n\n if history is not None:\n history.append(output_tokens.clone())\n\n return decoder_out._replace(\n output_tokens=output_tokens,\n output_scores=output_scores,\n attn=None,\n history=history,\n )\n\n\nclass InsertionTransformerDecoder(LevenshteinTransformerDecoder):\n def __init__(self, args, dictionary, embed_tokens, no_encoder_attn=False):\n # use the TransformerDecoder's __init__\n super(LevenshteinTransformerDecoder, self).__init__(\n args, dictionary, embed_tokens, no_encoder_attn=no_encoder_attn\n )\n\n self.dictionary = dictionary\n self.bos = dictionary.bos()\n self.unk = dictionary.unk()\n self.eos = dictionary.eos()\n self.pool_out = Linear(self.output_embed_dim * 2, self.output_embed_dim)\n\n self.label_tau = getattr(args, \"label_tau\", None)\n\n def forward_word_ins(self, prev_output_tokens, encoder_out=None):\n features = self.extract_features(prev_output_tokens, encoder_out=encoder_out)[0]\n features = self.pool_out(\n torch.cat([features[:, :-1, :], features[:, 1:, :]], 2)\n )\n return self.output_layer(features)\n\n def forward_mask_ins(self, *args, **kwargs):\n raise NotImplementedError\n\n def forward_word_del(self, *args, **kwargs):\n raise NotImplementedError\n\n def forward_word_del_mask_ins(self, *args, **kwargs):\n raise NotImplementedError\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"insertion_transformer\", \"insertion_transformer\")\ndef base_architecture(args):\n args.encoder_embed_path = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_path\", None)\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", 512)\n args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 2048)\n args.encoder_layers = getattr(args, \"encoder_layers\", 6)\n args.encoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"encoder_attention_heads\", 8)\n args.encoder_normalize_before = getattr(args, \"encoder_normalize_before\", False)\n args.encoder_learned_pos = getattr(args, \"encoder_learned_pos\", False)\n args.decoder_embed_path = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_path\", None)\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", args.encoder_embed_dim)\n args.decoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(\n args, \"decoder_ffn_embed_dim\", args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim\n )\n args.decoder_layers = getattr(args, \"decoder_layers\", 6)\n args.decoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"decoder_attention_heads\", 8)\n args.decoder_normalize_before = getattr(args, \"decoder_normalize_before\", False)\n args.decoder_learned_pos = getattr(args, \"decoder_learned_pos\", False)\n args.attention_dropout = getattr(args, \"attention_dropout\", 0.0)\n args.activation_dropout = getattr(args, \"activation_dropout\", 0.0)\n args.activation_fn = getattr(args, \"activation_fn\", \"relu\")\n args.dropout = getattr(args, \"dropout\", 0.1)\n args.adaptive_softmax_cutoff = getattr(args, \"adaptive_softmax_cutoff\", None)\n args.adaptive_softmax_dropout = getattr(args, \"adaptive_softmax_dropout\", 0)\n args.share_decoder_input_output_embed = getattr(\n args, \"share_decoder_input_output_embed\", False\n )\n args.share_all_embeddings = getattr(args, \"share_all_embeddings\", False)\n args.no_token_positional_embeddings = getattr(\n args, \"no_token_positional_embeddings\", False\n )\n args.adaptive_input = getattr(args, \"adaptive_input\", False)\n args.apply_bert_init = getattr(args, \"apply_bert_init\", False)\n\n args.decoder_output_dim = getattr(\n args, \"decoder_output_dim\", args.decoder_embed_dim\n )\n args.decoder_input_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_input_dim\", args.decoder_embed_dim)\n\n # special for insertion transformer\n args.label_tau = getattr(args, \"label_tau\", None)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/iterative_nonautoregressive_transformer.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\n\nfrom fairseq.models import register_model, register_model_architecture\nfrom fairseq.models.nonautoregressive_transformer import NATransformerModel\n\n\ndef _sequential_poisoning(s, V, beta=0.33, bos=2, eos=3, pad=1):\n # s: input batch\n # V: vocabulary size\n rand_words = torch.randint(low=4, high=V, size=s.size(), device=s.device)\n choices = torch.rand(size=s.size(), device=s.device)\n choices.masked_fill_((s == pad) | (s == bos) | (s == eos), 1)\n\n replace = choices < beta / 3\n repeat = (choices >= beta / 3) & (choices < beta * 2 / 3)\n swap = (choices >= beta * 2 / 3) & (choices < beta)\n safe = choices >= beta\n\n for i in range(s.size(1) - 1):\n rand_word = rand_words[:, i]\n next_word = s[:, i + 1]\n self_word = s[:, i]\n\n replace_i = replace[:, i]\n swap_i = swap[:, i] & (next_word != 3)\n repeat_i = repeat[:, i] & (next_word != 3)\n safe_i = safe[:, i] | ((next_word == 3) & (~replace_i))\n\n s[:, i] = (\n self_word * (safe_i | repeat_i).long()\n + next_word * swap_i.long()\n + rand_word * replace_i.long()\n )\n s[:, i + 1] = (\n next_word * (safe_i | replace_i).long()\n + self_word * (swap_i | repeat_i).long()\n )\n return s\n\n\ndef gumbel_noise(input, TINY=1e-8):\n return (\n input.new_zeros(*input.size())\n .uniform_()\n .add_(TINY)\n .log_()\n .neg_()\n .add_(TINY)\n .log_()\n .neg_()\n )\n\n\n@register_model(\"iterative_nonautoregressive_transformer\")\nclass IterNATransformerModel(NATransformerModel):\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n NATransformerModel.add_args(parser)\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--train-step\",\n type=int,\n help=\"number of refinement iterations during training\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--dae-ratio\",\n type=float,\n help=\"the probability of switching to the denoising auto-encoder loss\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--stochastic-approx\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"sampling from the decoder as the inputs for next iteration\",\n )\n\n @classmethod\n def build_model(cls, args, task):\n model = super().build_model(args, task)\n model.train_step = getattr(args, \"train_step\", 4)\n model.dae_ratio = getattr(args, \"dae_ratio\", 0.5)\n model.stochastic_approx = getattr(args, \"stochastic_approx\", False)\n return model\n\n def forward(\n self, src_tokens, src_lengths, prev_output_tokens, tgt_tokens, **kwargs\n ):\n\n B, T = prev_output_tokens.size()\n\n # encoding\n encoder_out = self.encoder(src_tokens, src_lengths=src_lengths, **kwargs)\n length_out, length_tgt = self.decoder.forward_length_prediction(\n encoder_out, tgt_tokens\n )\n word_ins_outs, word_ins_tgts, word_ins_masks = [], [], []\n for t in range(self.train_step):\n word_ins_out, word_ins_tgt, word_ins_mask = self.decoder(\n prev_output_tokens,\n encoder_out=encoder_out,\n tgt_tokens=tgt_tokens,\n step=t,\n )\n\n word_ins_outs.append(word_ins_out)\n word_ins_tgts.append(word_ins_tgt)\n word_ins_masks.append(word_ins_mask)\n\n if t < (self.train_step - 1):\n # prediction for next iteration\n if self.stochastic_approx:\n word_ins_prediction = (\n word_ins_out + gumbel_noise(word_ins_out)\n ).max(-1)[1]\n else:\n word_ins_prediction = word_ins_out.max(-1)[1]\n\n prev_output_tokens = prev_output_tokens.masked_scatter(\n word_ins_mask, word_ins_prediction[word_ins_mask]\n )\n\n if self.dae_ratio > 0:\n # we do not perform denoising for the first iteration\n corrputed = (\n torch.rand(size=(B,), device=prev_output_tokens.device)\n < self.dae_ratio\n )\n corrputed_tokens = _sequential_poisoning(\n tgt_tokens[corrputed],\n len(self.tgt_dict),\n 0.33,\n self.bos,\n self.eos,\n self.pad,\n )\n prev_output_tokens[corrputed] = corrputed_tokens\n\n # concat everything\n word_ins_out = torch.cat(word_ins_outs, 0)\n word_ins_tgt = torch.cat(word_ins_tgts, 0)\n word_ins_mask = torch.cat(word_ins_masks, 0)\n\n return {\n \"word_ins\": {\n \"out\": word_ins_out,\n \"tgt\": word_ins_tgt,\n \"mask\": word_ins_mask,\n \"ls\": self.args.label_smoothing,\n \"nll_loss\": True,\n },\n \"length\": {\n \"out\": length_out,\n \"tgt\": length_tgt,\n \"factor\": self.decoder.length_loss_factor,\n },\n }\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\n \"iterative_nonautoregressive_transformer\", \"iterative_nonautoregressive_transformer\"\n)\ndef base_architecture(args):\n args.encoder_embed_path = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_path\", None)\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", 512)\n args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 2048)\n args.encoder_layers = getattr(args, \"encoder_layers\", 6)\n args.encoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"encoder_attention_heads\", 8)\n args.encoder_normalize_before = getattr(args, \"encoder_normalize_before\", False)\n args.encoder_learned_pos = getattr(args, \"encoder_learned_pos\", False)\n args.decoder_embed_path = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_path\", None)\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", args.encoder_embed_dim)\n args.decoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(\n args, \"decoder_ffn_embed_dim\", args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim\n )\n args.decoder_layers = getattr(args, \"decoder_layers\", 6)\n args.decoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"decoder_attention_heads\", 8)\n args.decoder_normalize_before = getattr(args, \"decoder_normalize_before\", False)\n args.decoder_learned_pos = getattr(args, \"decoder_learned_pos\", False)\n args.attention_dropout = getattr(args, \"attention_dropout\", 0.0)\n args.activation_dropout = getattr(args, \"activation_dropout\", 0.0)\n args.activation_fn = getattr(args, \"activation_fn\", \"relu\")\n args.dropout = getattr(args, \"dropout\", 0.1)\n args.adaptive_softmax_cutoff = getattr(args, \"adaptive_softmax_cutoff\", None)\n args.adaptive_softmax_dropout = getattr(args, \"adaptive_softmax_dropout\", 0)\n args.share_decoder_input_output_embed = getattr(\n args, \"share_decoder_input_output_embed\", False\n )\n args.share_all_embeddings = getattr(args, \"share_all_embeddings\", False)\n args.no_token_positional_embeddings = getattr(\n args, \"no_token_positional_embeddings\", False\n )\n args.adaptive_input = getattr(args, \"adaptive_input\", False)\n args.apply_bert_init = getattr(args, \"apply_bert_init\", False)\n\n args.decoder_output_dim = getattr(\n args, \"decoder_output_dim\", args.decoder_embed_dim\n )\n args.decoder_input_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_input_dim\", args.decoder_embed_dim)\n\n # --- special arguments ---\n args.sg_length_pred = getattr(args, \"sg_length_pred\", False)\n args.pred_length_offset = getattr(args, \"pred_length_offset\", False)\n args.length_loss_factor = getattr(args, \"length_loss_factor\", 0.1)\n args.ngram_predictor = getattr(args, \"ngram_predictor\", 1)\n args.src_embedding_copy = getattr(args, \"src_embedding_copy\", False)\n\n args.train_step = getattr(args, \"train_step\", 4)\n args.dae_ratio = getattr(args, \"dae_ratio\", 0.5)\n args.stochastic_approx = getattr(args, \"stochastic_approx\", False)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\n \"iterative_nonautoregressive_transformer\",\n \"iterative_nonautoregressive_transformer_wmt_en_de\",\n)\ndef iter_nat_wmt_en_de(args):\n base_architecture(args)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/levenshtein_transformer.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn as nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom fairseq.iterative_refinement_generator import DecoderOut\nfrom fairseq.models import register_model, register_model_architecture\nfrom fairseq.models.transformer import (\n Embedding,\n TransformerDecoder,\n TransformerEncoder,\n TransformerModel,\n TransformerDecoderLayer,\n)\nfrom fairseq.modules.transformer_sentence_encoder import init_bert_params\nfrom fairseq.utils import new_arange\n\n# -------------- Helper Functions --------------------------------------------------- #\ndef _skip(x, mask):\n \"\"\"\n Getting sliced (dim=0) tensor by mask. Supporting tensor and list/dict of tensors.\n \"\"\"\n if isinstance(x, int):\n return x\n\n if x is None:\n return None\n\n if isinstance(x, torch.Tensor):\n if x.size(0) == mask.size(0):\n return x[mask]\n elif x.size(1) == mask.size(0):\n return x[:, mask]\n\n if isinstance(x, list):\n return [_skip(x_i, mask) for x_i in x]\n\n if isinstance(x, dict):\n return {k: _skip(v, mask) for k, v in x.items()}\n\n raise NotImplementedError\n\n\ndef _skip_encoder_out(encoder, encoder_out, mask):\n if not mask.any():\n return encoder_out\n else:\n return encoder.reorder_encoder_out(encoder_out, mask.nonzero().squeeze())\n\n\ndef _fill(x, mask, y, padding_idx):\n \"\"\"\n Filling tensor x with y at masked positions (dim=0).\n \"\"\"\n if x is None:\n return y\n assert x.dim() == y.dim() and mask.size(0) == x.size(0)\n assert x.dim() == 2 or (x.dim() == 3 and x.size(2) == y.size(2))\n n_selected = mask.sum()\n assert n_selected == y.size(0)\n\n if n_selected == x.size(0):\n return y\n\n if x.size(1) < y.size(1):\n dims = [x.size(0), y.size(1) - x.size(1)]\n if x.dim() == 3:\n dims.append(x.size(2))\n x = torch.cat([x, x.new_zeros(*dims).fill_(padding_idx)], 1)\n x[mask] = y\n elif x.size(1) > y.size(1):\n x[mask] = padding_idx\n if x.dim() == 2:\n x[mask, : y.size(1)] = y\n else:\n x[mask, : y.size(1), :] = y\n else:\n x[mask] = y\n return x\n\n\ndef load_libnat():\n try:\n from fairseq import libnat\n except ImportError as e:\n import sys\n\n sys.stderr.write(\"ERROR: missing libnat. run `pip install --editable .`\\n\")\n raise e\n return libnat\n\n\ndef _get_ins_targets(in_tokens, out_tokens, padding_idx, unk_idx):\n libnat = load_libnat()\n\n in_seq_len, out_seq_len = in_tokens.size(1), out_tokens.size(1)\n\n in_tokens_list = [\n [t for t in s if t != padding_idx] for i, s in enumerate(in_tokens.tolist())\n ]\n out_tokens_list = [\n [t for t in s if t != padding_idx] for i, s in enumerate(out_tokens.tolist())\n ]\n\n full_labels = libnat.suggested_ed2_path(\n in_tokens_list, out_tokens_list, padding_idx\n )\n mask_inputs = [\n [len(c) if c[0] != padding_idx else 0 for c in a[:-1]] for a in full_labels\n ]\n\n # generate labels\n masked_tgt_masks = []\n for mask_input in mask_inputs:\n mask_label = []\n for beam_size in mask_input[1:-1]: # HACK 1:-1\n mask_label += [0] + [1 for _ in range(beam_size)]\n masked_tgt_masks.append(\n mask_label + [0 for _ in range(out_seq_len - len(mask_label))]\n )\n mask_ins_targets = [\n mask_input[1:-1] + [0 for _ in range(in_seq_len - 1 - len(mask_input[1:-1]))]\n for mask_input in mask_inputs\n ]\n\n # transform to tensor\n masked_tgt_masks = torch.tensor(masked_tgt_masks, device=out_tokens.device).bool()\n mask_ins_targets = torch.tensor(mask_ins_targets, device=in_tokens.device)\n masked_tgt_tokens = out_tokens.masked_fill(masked_tgt_masks, unk_idx)\n return masked_tgt_masks, masked_tgt_tokens, mask_ins_targets\n\n\ndef _get_del_targets(in_tokens, out_tokens, padding_idx):\n libnat = load_libnat()\n\n out_seq_len = out_tokens.size(1)\n\n with torch.cuda.device_of(in_tokens):\n in_tokens_list = [\n [t for t in s if t != padding_idx] for i, s in enumerate(in_tokens.tolist())\n ]\n out_tokens_list = [\n [t for t in s if t != padding_idx]\n for i, s in enumerate(out_tokens.tolist())\n ]\n\n full_labels = libnat.suggested_ed2_path(\n in_tokens_list, out_tokens_list, padding_idx\n )\n word_del_targets = [b[-1] for b in full_labels]\n word_del_targets = [\n labels + [0 for _ in range(out_seq_len - len(labels))]\n for labels in word_del_targets\n ]\n\n # transform to tensor\n word_del_targets = torch.tensor(word_del_targets, device=out_tokens.device)\n return word_del_targets\n\n\ndef _get_del_ins_targets(in_tokens, out_tokens, padding_idx):\n libnat = load_libnat()\n\n in_seq_len, out_seq_len = in_tokens.size(1), out_tokens.size(1)\n\n with torch.cuda.device_of(in_tokens):\n in_tokens_list = [\n [t for t in s if t != padding_idx] for i, s in enumerate(in_tokens.tolist())\n ]\n out_tokens_list = [\n [t for t in s if t != padding_idx]\n for i, s in enumerate(out_tokens.tolist())\n ]\n\n full_labels = libnat.suggested_ed2_path(\n in_tokens_list, out_tokens_list, padding_idx\n )\n\n word_del_targets = [b[-1] for b in full_labels]\n word_del_targets = [\n labels + [0 for _ in range(out_seq_len - len(labels))]\n for labels in word_del_targets\n ]\n\n mask_inputs = [\n [len(c) if c[0] != padding_idx else 0 for c in a[:-1]] for a in full_labels\n ]\n mask_ins_targets = [\n mask_input[1:-1] + [0 for _ in range(in_seq_len - 1 - len(mask_input[1:-1]))]\n for mask_input in mask_inputs\n ]\n\n # transform to tensor\n mask_ins_targets = torch.tensor(mask_ins_targets, device=in_tokens.device)\n word_del_targets = torch.tensor(word_del_targets, device=out_tokens.device)\n return word_del_targets, mask_ins_targets\n\n\ndef _apply_ins_masks(\n in_tokens, in_scores, mask_ins_pred, padding_idx, unk_idx, eos_idx\n):\n\n in_masks = in_tokens.ne(padding_idx)\n in_lengths = in_masks.sum(1)\n\n # HACK: hacky way to shift all the paddings to eos first.\n in_tokens.masked_fill_(~in_masks, eos_idx)\n mask_ins_pred.masked_fill_(~in_masks[:, 1:], 0)\n\n out_lengths = in_lengths + mask_ins_pred.sum(1)\n out_max_len = out_lengths.max()\n out_masks = new_arange(out_lengths, out_max_len)[None, :] < out_lengths[:, None]\n\n reordering = (mask_ins_pred + in_masks[:, 1:].long()).cumsum(1)\n out_tokens = (\n in_tokens.new_zeros(in_tokens.size(0), out_max_len)\n .fill_(padding_idx)\n .masked_fill_(out_masks, unk_idx)\n )\n out_tokens[:, 0] = in_tokens[:, 0]\n out_tokens.scatter_(1, reordering, in_tokens[:, 1:])\n\n out_scores = None\n if in_scores is not None:\n in_scores.masked_fill_(~in_masks, 0)\n out_scores = in_scores.new_zeros(*out_tokens.size())\n out_scores[:, 0] = in_scores[:, 0]\n out_scores.scatter_(1, reordering, in_scores[:, 1:])\n\n return out_tokens, out_scores\n\n\ndef _apply_ins_words(in_tokens, in_scores, word_ins_pred, word_ins_scores, unk_idx):\n word_ins_masks = in_tokens.eq(unk_idx)\n out_tokens = in_tokens.masked_scatter(word_ins_masks, word_ins_pred[word_ins_masks])\n\n if in_scores is not None:\n out_scores = in_scores.masked_scatter(\n word_ins_masks, word_ins_scores[word_ins_masks]\n )\n else:\n out_scores = None\n\n return out_tokens, out_scores\n\n\ndef _apply_del_words(\n in_tokens, in_scores, in_attn, word_del_pred, padding_idx, bos_idx, eos_idx\n):\n # apply deletion to a tensor\n in_masks = in_tokens.ne(padding_idx)\n bos_eos_masks = in_tokens.eq(bos_idx) | in_tokens.eq(eos_idx)\n\n max_len = in_tokens.size(1)\n word_del_pred.masked_fill_(~in_masks, 1)\n word_del_pred.masked_fill_(bos_eos_masks, 0)\n\n reordering = new_arange(in_tokens).masked_fill_(word_del_pred, max_len).sort(1)[1]\n\n out_tokens = in_tokens.masked_fill(word_del_pred, padding_idx).gather(1, reordering)\n\n out_scores = None\n if in_scores is not None:\n out_scores = in_scores.masked_fill(word_del_pred, 0).gather(1, reordering)\n\n out_attn = None\n if in_attn is not None:\n _mask = word_del_pred[:, :, None].expand_as(in_attn)\n _reordering = reordering[:, :, None].expand_as(in_attn)\n out_attn = in_attn.masked_fill(_mask, 0.0).gather(1, _reordering)\n\n return out_tokens, out_scores, out_attn\n\n\n# ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- #\n\n\n@register_model(\"levenshtein_transformer\")\nclass LevenshteinTransformerModel(TransformerModel):\n def __init__(self, args, encoder, decoder):\n super().__init__(args, encoder, decoder)\n self.tgt_dict = decoder.dictionary\n self.bos = decoder.dictionary.bos()\n self.eos = decoder.dictionary.eos()\n self.pad = decoder.dictionary.pad()\n self.unk = decoder.dictionary.unk()\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n TransformerModel.add_args(parser)\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--apply-bert-init\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"use custom param initialization for BERT\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--early-exit\",\n default=\"6,6,6\",\n type=str,\n help=\"number of decoder layers before word_del, mask_ins, word_ins\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--no-share-discriminator\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"separate parameters for discriminator\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--no-share-maskpredictor\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"separate parameters for mask-predictor\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--share-discriminator-maskpredictor\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"share the parameters for both mask-predictor and discriminator\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--sampling-for-deletion\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"instead of argmax, use sampling to predict the tokens\",\n )\n\n @classmethod\n def build_decoder(cls, args, tgt_dict, embed_tokens):\n decoder = LevenshteinTransformerDecoder(args, tgt_dict, embed_tokens)\n if getattr(args, \"apply_bert_init\", False):\n decoder.apply(init_bert_params)\n return decoder\n\n @classmethod\n def build_encoder(cls, args, src_dict, embed_tokens):\n encoder = TransformerEncoder(args, src_dict, embed_tokens)\n if getattr(args, \"apply_bert_init\", False):\n encoder.apply(init_bert_params)\n return encoder\n\n def forward(\n self, src_tokens, src_lengths, prev_output_tokens, tgt_tokens, **kwargs\n ):\n\n assert tgt_tokens is not None, \"forward function only supports training.\"\n\n # encoding\n encoder_out = self.encoder(src_tokens, src_lengths=src_lengths, **kwargs)\n\n # generate training labels for insertion\n masked_tgt_masks, masked_tgt_tokens, mask_ins_targets = _get_ins_targets(\n prev_output_tokens, tgt_tokens, self.pad, self.unk\n )\n mask_ins_targets = mask_ins_targets.clamp(min=0, max=255) # for safe prediction\n mask_ins_masks = prev_output_tokens[:, 1:].ne(self.pad)\n\n mask_ins_out, _ = self.decoder.forward_mask_ins(\n prev_output_tokens, encoder_out=encoder_out\n )\n word_ins_out, _ = self.decoder.forward_word_ins(\n masked_tgt_tokens, encoder_out=encoder_out\n )\n\n # make online prediction\n if self.decoder.sampling_for_deletion:\n word_predictions = torch.multinomial(\n F.softmax(word_ins_out, -1).view(-1, word_ins_out.size(-1)), 1\n ).view(word_ins_out.size(0), -1)\n else:\n word_predictions = F.log_softmax(word_ins_out, dim=-1).max(2)[1]\n\n word_predictions.masked_scatter_(\n ~masked_tgt_masks, tgt_tokens[~masked_tgt_masks]\n )\n\n # generate training labels for deletion\n word_del_targets = _get_del_targets(word_predictions, tgt_tokens, self.pad)\n word_del_out, _ = self.decoder.forward_word_del(word_predictions, encoder_out)\n word_del_masks = word_predictions.ne(self.pad)\n\n return {\n \"mask_ins\": {\n \"out\": mask_ins_out,\n \"tgt\": mask_ins_targets,\n \"mask\": mask_ins_masks,\n \"ls\": 0.01,\n },\n \"word_ins\": {\n \"out\": word_ins_out,\n \"tgt\": tgt_tokens,\n \"mask\": masked_tgt_masks,\n \"ls\": self.args.label_smoothing,\n \"nll_loss\": True,\n },\n \"word_del\": {\n \"out\": word_del_out,\n \"tgt\": word_del_targets,\n \"mask\": word_del_masks,\n },\n }\n\n def forward_encoder(self, encoder_inputs):\n return self.encoder(*encoder_inputs)\n\n def forward_decoder(\n self, decoder_out, encoder_out, eos_penalty=0.0, max_ratio=None, **kwargs\n ):\n\n output_tokens = decoder_out.output_tokens\n output_scores = decoder_out.output_scores\n attn = decoder_out.attn\n history = decoder_out.history\n\n bsz = output_tokens.size(0)\n if max_ratio is None:\n max_lens = torch.zeros_like(output_tokens).fill_(255)\n else:\n if encoder_out.encoder_padding_mask is None:\n max_src_len = encoder_out.encoder_out.size(1)\n src_lens = encoder_out.encoder_out.new(bsz).fill_(max_src_len)\n else:\n src_lens = (~encoder_out.encoder_padding_mask).sum(1)\n max_lens = (src_lens * max_ratio).clamp(min=10).long()\n\n # delete words\n # do not delete tokens if it is <s> </s>\n can_del_word = output_tokens.ne(self.pad).sum(1) > 2\n if can_del_word.sum() != 0: # we cannot delete, skip\n word_del_out, word_del_attn = self.decoder.forward_word_del(\n _skip(output_tokens, can_del_word),\n _skip_encoder_out(self.encoder, encoder_out, can_del_word),\n )\n word_del_score = F.log_softmax(word_del_out, 2)\n word_del_pred = word_del_score.max(-1)[1].bool()\n\n _tokens, _scores, _attn = _apply_del_words(\n output_tokens[can_del_word],\n output_scores[can_del_word],\n word_del_attn,\n word_del_pred,\n self.pad,\n self.bos,\n self.eos,\n )\n output_tokens = _fill(output_tokens, can_del_word, _tokens, self.pad)\n output_scores = _fill(output_scores, can_del_word, _scores, 0)\n attn = _fill(attn, can_del_word, _attn, 0.0)\n\n if history is not None:\n history.append(output_tokens.clone())\n\n # insert placeholders\n can_ins_mask = output_tokens.ne(self.pad).sum(1) < max_lens\n if can_ins_mask.sum() != 0:\n mask_ins_out, _ = self.decoder.forward_mask_ins(\n _skip(output_tokens, can_ins_mask),\n _skip_encoder_out(self.encoder, encoder_out, can_ins_mask),\n )\n mask_ins_score = F.log_softmax(mask_ins_out, 2)\n if eos_penalty > 0.0:\n mask_ins_score[:, :, 0] = mask_ins_score[:, :, 0] - eos_penalty\n mask_ins_pred = mask_ins_score.max(-1)[1]\n mask_ins_pred = torch.min(\n mask_ins_pred, max_lens[can_ins_mask, None].expand_as(mask_ins_pred)\n )\n\n _tokens, _scores = _apply_ins_masks(\n output_tokens[can_ins_mask],\n output_scores[can_ins_mask],\n mask_ins_pred,\n self.pad,\n self.unk,\n self.eos,\n )\n output_tokens = _fill(output_tokens, can_ins_mask, _tokens, self.pad)\n output_scores = _fill(output_scores, can_ins_mask, _scores, 0)\n\n if history is not None:\n history.append(output_tokens.clone())\n\n # insert words\n can_ins_word = output_tokens.eq(self.unk).sum(1) > 0\n if can_ins_word.sum() != 0:\n word_ins_out, word_ins_attn = self.decoder.forward_word_ins(\n _skip(output_tokens, can_ins_word),\n _skip_encoder_out(self.encoder, encoder_out, can_ins_word),\n )\n word_ins_score, word_ins_pred = F.log_softmax(word_ins_out, 2).max(-1)\n _tokens, _scores = _apply_ins_words(\n output_tokens[can_ins_word],\n output_scores[can_ins_word],\n word_ins_pred,\n word_ins_score,\n self.unk,\n )\n\n output_tokens = _fill(output_tokens, can_ins_word, _tokens, self.pad)\n output_scores = _fill(output_scores, can_ins_word, _scores, 0)\n attn = _fill(attn, can_ins_word, word_ins_attn, 0.0)\n\n if history is not None:\n history.append(output_tokens.clone())\n\n # delete some unnecessary paddings\n cut_off = output_tokens.ne(self.pad).sum(1).max()\n output_tokens = output_tokens[:, :cut_off]\n output_scores = output_scores[:, :cut_off]\n attn = None if attn is None else attn[:, :cut_off, :]\n\n return decoder_out._replace(\n output_tokens=output_tokens,\n output_scores=output_scores,\n attn=attn,\n history=history,\n )\n\n def initialize_output_tokens(self, encoder_out, src_tokens):\n initial_output_tokens = src_tokens.new_zeros(src_tokens.size(0), 2)\n initial_output_tokens[:, 0] = self.bos\n initial_output_tokens[:, 1] = self.eos\n\n initial_output_scores = initial_output_tokens.new_zeros(\n *initial_output_tokens.size()\n ).type_as(encoder_out.encoder_out)\n return DecoderOut(\n output_tokens=initial_output_tokens,\n output_scores=initial_output_scores,\n attn=None,\n step=0,\n max_step=0,\n history=None,\n )\n\n\nclass LevenshteinTransformerDecoder(TransformerDecoder):\n def __init__(self, args, dictionary, embed_tokens, no_encoder_attn=False):\n super().__init__(\n args, dictionary, embed_tokens, no_encoder_attn=no_encoder_attn\n )\n self.dictionary = dictionary\n self.bos = dictionary.bos()\n self.unk = dictionary.unk()\n self.eos = dictionary.eos()\n self.sampling_for_deletion = getattr(args, \"sampling_for_deletion\", False)\n self.embed_mask_ins = Embedding(256, self.output_embed_dim * 2, None)\n self.embed_word_del = Embedding(2, self.output_embed_dim, None)\n\n # del_word, ins_mask, ins_word\n self.early_exit = [int(i) for i in args.early_exit.split(\",\")]\n assert len(self.early_exit) == 3\n\n # copy layers for mask-predict/deletion\n self.layers_msk = None\n if getattr(args, \"no_share_maskpredictor\", False):\n self.layers_msk = nn.ModuleList(\n [\n TransformerDecoderLayer(args, no_encoder_attn)\n for _ in range(self.early_exit[1])\n ]\n )\n self.layers_del = None\n if getattr(args, \"no_share_discriminator\", False):\n self.layers_del = nn.ModuleList(\n [\n TransformerDecoderLayer(args, no_encoder_attn)\n for _ in range(self.early_exit[0])\n ]\n )\n\n if getattr(args, \"share_discriminator_maskpredictor\", False):\n assert getattr(\n args, \"no_share_discriminator\", False\n ), \"must set saperate discriminator\"\n self.layers_msk = self.layers_del\n\n def extract_features(\n self,\n prev_output_tokens,\n encoder_out=None,\n early_exit=None,\n layers=None,\n **unused\n ):\n \"\"\"\n Similar to *forward* but only return features.\n Inputs:\n prev_output_tokens: Tensor(B, T)\n encoder_out: a dictionary of hidden states and masks\n\n Returns:\n tuple:\n - the decoder's features of shape `(batch, tgt_len, embed_dim)`\n - a dictionary with any model-specific outputs\n the LevenshteinTransformer decoder has full-attention to all generated tokens\n \"\"\"\n # embed positions\n positions = (\n self.embed_positions(prev_output_tokens)\n if self.embed_positions is not None\n else None\n )\n\n # embed tokens and positions\n x = self.embed_scale * self.embed_tokens(prev_output_tokens)\n if self.project_in_dim is not None:\n x = self.project_in_dim(x)\n\n if positions is not None:\n x += positions\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n\n # B x T x C -> T x B x C\n x = x.transpose(0, 1)\n attn = None\n inner_states = [x]\n\n # decoder layers\n decoder_padding_mask = prev_output_tokens.eq(self.padding_idx)\n layers = self.layers if layers is None else layers\n early_exit = len(layers) if early_exit is None else early_exit\n for _, layer in enumerate(layers[:early_exit]):\n x, attn = layer(\n x,\n encoder_out.encoder_out if encoder_out is not None else None,\n encoder_out.encoder_padding_mask if encoder_out is not None else None,\n self_attn_mask=None,\n self_attn_padding_mask=decoder_padding_mask,\n )\n inner_states.append(x)\n\n if self.layer_norm:\n x = self.layer_norm(x)\n\n # T x B x C -> B x T x C\n x = x.transpose(0, 1)\n\n if self.project_out_dim is not None:\n x = self.project_out_dim(x)\n\n return x, {\"attn\": attn, \"inner_states\": inner_states}\n\n def forward_mask_ins(self, prev_output_tokens, encoder_out=None, **unused):\n features, extra = self.extract_features(\n prev_output_tokens,\n encoder_out=encoder_out,\n early_exit=self.early_exit[1],\n layers=self.layers_msk,\n **unused\n )\n features_cat = torch.cat([features[:, :-1, :], features[:, 1:, :]], 2)\n return F.linear(features_cat, self.embed_mask_ins.weight), extra[\"attn\"]\n\n def forward_word_ins(self, prev_output_tokens, encoder_out=None, **unused):\n features, extra = self.extract_features(\n prev_output_tokens,\n encoder_out=encoder_out,\n early_exit=self.early_exit[2],\n layers=self.layers,\n **unused\n )\n return self.output_layer(features), extra[\"attn\"]\n\n def forward_word_del(self, prev_output_tokens, encoder_out=None, **unused):\n features, extra = self.extract_features(\n prev_output_tokens,\n encoder_out=encoder_out,\n early_exit=self.early_exit[0],\n layers=self.layers_del,\n **unused\n )\n return F.linear(features, self.embed_word_del.weight), extra[\"attn\"]\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"levenshtein_transformer\", \"levenshtein_transformer\")\ndef base_architecture(args):\n args.encoder_embed_path = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_path\", None)\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", 512)\n args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 2048)\n args.encoder_layers = getattr(args, \"encoder_layers\", 6)\n args.encoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"encoder_attention_heads\", 8)\n args.encoder_normalize_before = getattr(args, \"encoder_normalize_before\", False)\n args.encoder_learned_pos = getattr(args, \"encoder_learned_pos\", False)\n args.decoder_embed_path = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_path\", None)\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", args.encoder_embed_dim)\n args.decoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(\n args, \"decoder_ffn_embed_dim\", args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim\n )\n args.decoder_layers = getattr(args, \"decoder_layers\", 6)\n args.decoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"decoder_attention_heads\", 8)\n args.decoder_normalize_before = getattr(args, \"decoder_normalize_before\", False)\n args.decoder_learned_pos = getattr(args, \"decoder_learned_pos\", False)\n args.attention_dropout = getattr(args, \"attention_dropout\", 0.0)\n args.activation_dropout = getattr(args, \"activation_dropout\", 0.0)\n args.activation_fn = getattr(args, \"activation_fn\", \"relu\")\n args.dropout = getattr(args, \"dropout\", 0.1)\n args.adaptive_softmax_cutoff = getattr(args, \"adaptive_softmax_cutoff\", None)\n args.adaptive_softmax_dropout = getattr(args, \"adaptive_softmax_dropout\", 0)\n args.share_decoder_input_output_embed = getattr(\n args, \"share_decoder_input_output_embed\", False\n )\n args.share_all_embeddings = getattr(args, \"share_all_embeddings\", False)\n args.no_token_positional_embeddings = getattr(\n args, \"no_token_positional_embeddings\", False\n )\n args.adaptive_input = getattr(args, \"adaptive_input\", False)\n args.apply_bert_init = getattr(args, \"apply_bert_init\", False)\n\n args.decoder_output_dim = getattr(\n args, \"decoder_output_dim\", args.decoder_embed_dim\n )\n args.sampling_for_deletion = getattr(args, \"sampling_for_deletion\", False)\n args.decoder_input_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_input_dim\", args.decoder_embed_dim)\n args.early_exit = getattr(args, \"early_exit\", \"6,6,6\")\n args.no_share_discriminator = getattr(args, \"no_share_discriminator\", False)\n args.no_share_maskpredictor = getattr(args, \"no_share_maskpredictor\", False)\n args.share_discriminator_maskpredictor = getattr(\n args, \"share_discriminator_maskpredictor\", False\n )\n args.no_share_last_layer = getattr(args, \"no_share_last_layer\", False)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\n \"levenshtein_transformer\", \"levenshtein_transformer_wmt_en_de\"\n)\ndef levenshtein_transformer_wmt_en_de(args):\n base_architecture(args)\n\n\n# similar parameters used in the \"Attention Is All You Need\" paper (Vaswani et al., 2017)\n@register_model_architecture(\n \"levenshtein_transformer\", \"levenshtein_transformer_vaswani_wmt_en_de_big\"\n)\ndef levenshtein_transformer_vaswani_wmt_en_de_big(args):\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", 1024)\n args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 4096)\n args.encoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"encoder_attention_heads\", 16)\n args.encoder_normalize_before = getattr(args, \"encoder_normalize_before\", False)\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", 1024)\n args.decoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 4096)\n args.decoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"decoder_attention_heads\", 16)\n args.dropout = getattr(args, \"dropout\", 0.3)\n base_architecture(args)\n\n\n# default parameters used in tensor2tensor implementation\n@register_model_architecture(\n \"levenshtein_transformer\", \"levenshtein_transformer_wmt_en_de_big\"\n)\ndef levenshtein_transformer_wmt_en_de_big_t2t(args):\n args.encoder_normalize_before = getattr(args, \"encoder_normalize_before\", True)\n args.decoder_normalize_before = getattr(args, \"decoder_normalize_before\", True)\n args.attention_dropout = getattr(args, \"attention_dropout\", 0.1)\n args.activation_dropout = getattr(args, \"activation_dropout\", 0.1)\n levenshtein_transformer_vaswani_wmt_en_de_big(args)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/lightconv.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport math\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn as nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom fairseq import options, utils\nfrom fairseq.models import (\n FairseqEncoder,\n FairseqIncrementalDecoder,\n FairseqEncoderDecoderModel,\n register_model,\n register_model_architecture,\n)\nfrom fairseq.modules import (\n AdaptiveSoftmax,\n DynamicConv,\n LayerNorm,\n PositionalEmbedding,\n LightweightConv,\n MultiheadAttention,\n)\n\n\n@register_model(\"lightconv\")\nclass LightConvModel(FairseqEncoderDecoderModel):\n \"\"\"\n LightConv and DynamicConv model from `\"Pay Less Attention with Lightweight and Dynamic Convolutions\" (Wu, et al, 2019)\n <https://openreview.net/pdf?id=SkVhlh09tX>`_.\n To use LightConv please set --encoder-conv-type lightweight --decoder-conv-type lightweight\n To use DynamicConv please set --encoder-conv-type dynamic --decoder-conv-type dynamic\n\n Args:\n encoder (LightConvEncoder): the encoder\n decoder (LightConvDecoder): the decoder\n\n The LightConv model provides the following named architectures and\n command-line arguments:\n\n .. argparse::\n :ref: fairseq.models.lightconv_parser\n :prog:\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, encoder, decoder):\n super().__init__(encoder, decoder)\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add model-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--dropout\", type=float, metavar=\"D\", help=\"dropout probability\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--attention-dropout\",\n type=float,\n metavar=\"D\",\n help=\"dropout probability for attention weights\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--relu-dropout\",\n type=float,\n metavar=\"D\",\n help=\"dropout probability after ReLU in FFN\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--input-dropout\",\n type=float,\n metavar=\"D\",\n help=\"dropout probability of the inputs\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--encoder-embed-path\",\n type=str,\n metavar=\"STR\",\n help=\"path to pre-trained encoder embedding\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--encoder-embed-dim\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"encoder embedding dimension\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--encoder-conv-dim\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"encoder embedding dimension\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--encoder-ffn-embed-dim\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"encoder embedding dimension for FFN\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--encoder-layers\", type=int, metavar=\"N\", help=\"num encoder layers\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--encoder-attention-heads\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"num encoder attention heads or LightConv/DynamicConv heads\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--encoder-normalize-before\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"apply layernorm before each encoder block\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--encoder-learned-pos\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"use learned positional embeddings in the encoder\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--decoder-embed-path\",\n type=str,\n metavar=\"STR\",\n help=\"path to pre-trained decoder embedding\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--decoder-embed-dim\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"decoder embedding dimension\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--decoder-conv-dim\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"decoder embedding dimension\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--decoder-ffn-embed-dim\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"decoder embedding dimension for FFN\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--decoder-layers\", type=int, metavar=\"N\", help=\"num decoder layers\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--decoder-attention-heads\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"num decoder attention heads or LightConv/DynamicConv heads\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--decoder-learned-pos\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"use learned positional embeddings in the decoder\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--decoder-normalize-before\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"apply layernorm before each decoder block\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--share-decoder-input-output-embed\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"share decoder input and output embeddings\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--share-all-embeddings\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"share encoder, decoder and output embeddings\"\n \" (requires shared dictionary and embed dim)\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--adaptive-softmax-cutoff\",\n metavar=\"EXPR\",\n help=\"comma separated list of adaptive softmax cutoff points. \"\n \"Must be used with adaptive_loss criterion\",\n ),\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--adaptive-softmax-dropout\",\n type=float,\n metavar=\"D\",\n help=\"sets adaptive softmax dropout for the tail projections\",\n )\n\n \"\"\"LightConv and DynamicConv arguments\"\"\"\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--encoder-kernel-size-list\",\n type=lambda x: options.eval_str_list(x, int),\n help='list of kernel size (default: \"[3,7,15,31,31,31,31]\")',\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--decoder-kernel-size-list\",\n type=lambda x: options.eval_str_list(x, int),\n help='list of kernel size (default: \"[3,7,15,31,31,31]\")',\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--encoder-glu\", type=options.eval_bool, help=\"glu after in proj\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--decoder-glu\", type=options.eval_bool, help=\"glu after in proj\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--encoder-conv-type\",\n default=\"dynamic\",\n type=str,\n choices=[\"dynamic\", \"lightweight\"],\n help=\"type of convolution\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--decoder-conv-type\",\n default=\"dynamic\",\n type=str,\n choices=[\"dynamic\", \"lightweight\"],\n help=\"type of convolution\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\"--weight-softmax\", default=True, type=options.eval_bool)\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--weight-dropout\",\n type=float,\n metavar=\"D\",\n help=\"dropout probability for conv weights\",\n )\n\n @classmethod\n def build_model(cls, args, task):\n \"\"\"Build a new model instance.\"\"\"\n\n # make sure all arguments are present in older models\n base_architecture(args)\n\n if not hasattr(args, \"max_source_positions\"):\n args.max_source_positions = 1024\n if not hasattr(args, \"max_target_positions\"):\n args.max_target_positions = 1024\n\n src_dict, tgt_dict = task.source_dictionary, task.target_dictionary\n\n def build_embedding(dictionary, embed_dim, path=None):\n num_embeddings = len(dictionary)\n padding_idx = dictionary.pad()\n emb = Embedding(num_embeddings, embed_dim, padding_idx)\n # if provided, load from preloaded dictionaries\n if path:\n embed_dict = utils.parse_embedding(path)\n utils.load_embedding(embed_dict, dictionary, emb)\n return emb\n\n if args.share_all_embeddings:\n if src_dict != tgt_dict:\n raise RuntimeError(\n \"--share-all-embeddings requires a joined dictionary\"\n )\n if args.encoder_embed_dim != args.decoder_embed_dim:\n raise RuntimeError(\n \"--share-all-embeddings requires --encoder-embed-dim to match --decoder-embed-dim\"\n )\n if args.decoder_embed_path and (\n args.decoder_embed_path != args.encoder_embed_path\n ):\n raise RuntimeError(\n \"--share-all-embeddings not compatible with --decoder-embed-path\"\n )\n encoder_embed_tokens = build_embedding(\n src_dict, args.encoder_embed_dim, args.encoder_embed_path\n )\n decoder_embed_tokens = encoder_embed_tokens\n args.share_decoder_input_output_embed = True\n else:\n encoder_embed_tokens = build_embedding(\n src_dict, args.encoder_embed_dim, args.encoder_embed_path\n )\n decoder_embed_tokens = build_embedding(\n tgt_dict, args.decoder_embed_dim, args.decoder_embed_path\n )\n\n encoder = LightConvEncoder(args, src_dict, encoder_embed_tokens)\n decoder = LightConvDecoder(args, tgt_dict, decoder_embed_tokens)\n return LightConvModel(encoder, decoder)\n\n\nclass LightConvEncoder(FairseqEncoder):\n \"\"\"\n LightConv encoder consisting of *args.encoder_layers* layers. Each layer\n is a :class:`LightConvEncoderLayer`.\n\n Args:\n args (argparse.Namespace): parsed command-line arguments\n dictionary (~fairseq.data.Dictionary): encoding dictionary\n embed_tokens (torch.nn.Embedding): input embedding\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, args, dictionary, embed_tokens):\n super().__init__(dictionary)\n self.dropout = args.dropout\n\n embed_dim = embed_tokens.embedding_dim\n self.padding_idx = embed_tokens.padding_idx\n self.max_source_positions = args.max_source_positions\n\n self.embed_tokens = embed_tokens\n self.embed_scale = math.sqrt(embed_dim)\n self.embed_positions = (\n PositionalEmbedding(\n args.max_source_positions,\n embed_dim,\n self.padding_idx,\n learned=args.encoder_learned_pos,\n )\n if not args.no_token_positional_embeddings\n else None\n )\n\n self.layers = nn.ModuleList([])\n self.layers.extend(\n [\n LightConvEncoderLayer(\n args, kernel_size=args.encoder_kernel_size_list[i]\n )\n for i in range(args.encoder_layers)\n ]\n )\n self.register_buffer(\"version\", torch.Tensor([2]))\n self.normalize = args.encoder_normalize_before\n if self.normalize:\n self.layer_norm = LayerNorm(embed_dim)\n\n def forward(self, src_tokens, **unused):\n \"\"\"\n Args:\n src_tokens (LongTensor): tokens in the source language of shape\n `(batch, src_len)`\n\n Returns:\n dict:\n - **encoder_out** (Tensor): the last encoder layer's output of\n shape `(src_len, batch, embed_dim)`\n - **encoder_padding_mask** (ByteTensor): the positions of\n padding elements of shape `(batch, src_len)`\n \"\"\"\n # embed tokens and positions\n x = self.embed_scale * self.embed_tokens(src_tokens)\n if self.embed_positions is not None:\n x += self.embed_positions(src_tokens)\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n\n # B x T x C -> T x B x C\n x = x.transpose(0, 1)\n\n # compute padding mask\n encoder_padding_mask = src_tokens.eq(self.padding_idx)\n if not encoder_padding_mask.any():\n encoder_padding_mask = None\n\n # encoder layers\n for layer in self.layers:\n x = layer(x, encoder_padding_mask)\n\n if self.normalize:\n x = self.layer_norm(x)\n\n return {\n \"encoder_out\": x, # T x B x C\n \"encoder_padding_mask\": encoder_padding_mask, # B x T\n }\n\n def reorder_encoder_out(self, encoder_out, new_order):\n \"\"\"\n Reorder encoder output according to *new_order*.\n\n Args:\n encoder_out: output from the ``forward()`` method\n new_order (LongTensor): desired order\n\n Returns:\n *encoder_out* rearranged according to *new_order*\n \"\"\"\n if encoder_out[\"encoder_out\"] is not None:\n encoder_out[\"encoder_out\"] = encoder_out[\"encoder_out\"].index_select(\n 1, new_order\n )\n if encoder_out[\"encoder_padding_mask\"] is not None:\n encoder_out[\"encoder_padding_mask\"] = encoder_out[\n \"encoder_padding_mask\"\n ].index_select(0, new_order)\n return encoder_out\n\n def max_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Maximum input length supported by the encoder.\"\"\"\n if self.embed_positions is None:\n return self.max_source_positions\n return min(self.max_source_positions, self.embed_positions.max_positions())\n\n\nclass LightConvDecoder(FairseqIncrementalDecoder):\n \"\"\"\n LightConv decoder consisting of *args.decoder_layers* layers. Each layer\n is a :class:`LightConvDecoderLayer`.\n\n Args:\n args (argparse.Namespace): parsed command-line arguments\n dictionary (~fairseq.data.Dictionary): decoding dictionary\n embed_tokens (torch.nn.Embedding): output embedding\n no_encoder_attn (bool, optional): whether to attend to encoder outputs.\n Default: ``False``\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self, args, dictionary, embed_tokens, no_encoder_attn=False, final_norm=True\n ):\n super().__init__(dictionary)\n self.dropout = args.dropout\n self.share_input_output_embed = args.share_decoder_input_output_embed\n\n input_embed_dim = embed_tokens.embedding_dim\n embed_dim = args.decoder_embed_dim\n output_embed_dim = args.decoder_output_dim\n\n padding_idx = embed_tokens.padding_idx\n self.max_target_positions = args.max_target_positions\n\n self.embed_tokens = embed_tokens\n self.embed_scale = math.sqrt(embed_dim) # todo: try with input_embed_dim\n\n self.project_in_dim = (\n Linear(input_embed_dim, embed_dim, bias=False)\n if embed_dim != input_embed_dim\n else None\n )\n\n self.embed_positions = (\n PositionalEmbedding(\n args.max_target_positions,\n embed_dim,\n padding_idx,\n learned=args.decoder_learned_pos,\n )\n if not args.no_token_positional_embeddings\n else None\n )\n\n self.layers = nn.ModuleList([])\n self.layers.extend(\n [\n LightConvDecoderLayer(\n args, no_encoder_attn, kernel_size=args.decoder_kernel_size_list[i]\n )\n for i in range(args.decoder_layers)\n ]\n )\n\n self.adaptive_softmax = None\n\n self.project_out_dim = (\n Linear(embed_dim, output_embed_dim, bias=False)\n if embed_dim != output_embed_dim and not args.tie_adaptive_weights\n else None\n )\n\n if args.adaptive_softmax_cutoff is not None:\n self.adaptive_softmax = AdaptiveSoftmax(\n len(dictionary),\n output_embed_dim,\n options.eval_str_list(args.adaptive_softmax_cutoff, type=int),\n dropout=args.adaptive_softmax_dropout,\n adaptive_inputs=embed_tokens if args.tie_adaptive_weights else None,\n factor=args.adaptive_softmax_factor,\n tie_proj=args.tie_adaptive_proj,\n )\n elif not self.share_input_output_embed:\n self.embed_out = nn.Parameter(\n torch.Tensor(len(dictionary), output_embed_dim)\n )\n nn.init.normal_(self.embed_out, mean=0, std=output_embed_dim ** -0.5)\n self.register_buffer(\"version\", torch.Tensor([2]))\n self.normalize = args.decoder_normalize_before and final_norm\n if self.normalize:\n self.layer_norm = LayerNorm(embed_dim)\n\n def forward(\n self, prev_output_tokens, encoder_out=None, incremental_state=None, **kwargs\n ):\n \"\"\"\n Args:\n prev_output_tokens (LongTensor): previous decoder outputs of shape\n `(batch, tgt_len)`, for teacher forcing\n encoder_out (Tensor, optional): output from the encoder, used for\n encoder-side attention\n incremental_state (dict): dictionary used for storing state during\n :ref:`Incremental decoding`\n\n Returns:\n tuple:\n - the last decoder layer's output of shape `(batch, tgt_len,\n vocab)`\n - the last decoder layer's attention weights of shape `(batch,\n tgt_len, src_len)`\n \"\"\"\n # embed positions\n positions = (\n self.embed_positions(\n prev_output_tokens, incremental_state=incremental_state,\n )\n if self.embed_positions is not None\n else None\n )\n\n if incremental_state is not None:\n prev_output_tokens = prev_output_tokens[:, -1:]\n if positions is not None:\n positions = positions[:, -1:]\n\n # embed tokens and positions\n x = self.embed_scale * self.embed_tokens(prev_output_tokens)\n\n if self.project_in_dim is not None:\n x = self.project_in_dim(x)\n\n if positions is not None:\n x += positions\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n\n # B x T x C -> T x B x C\n x = x.transpose(0, 1)\n attn = None\n\n inner_states = [x]\n\n # decoder layers\n for layer in self.layers:\n x, attn = layer(\n x,\n encoder_out[\"encoder_out\"] if encoder_out is not None else None,\n encoder_out[\"encoder_padding_mask\"]\n if encoder_out is not None\n else None,\n incremental_state,\n )\n inner_states.append(x)\n\n if self.normalize:\n x = self.layer_norm(x)\n\n # T x B x C -> B x T x C\n x = x.transpose(0, 1)\n\n if self.project_out_dim is not None:\n x = self.project_out_dim(x)\n\n if self.adaptive_softmax is None:\n # project back to size of vocabulary\n if self.share_input_output_embed:\n x = F.linear(x, self.embed_tokens.weight)\n else:\n x = F.linear(x, self.embed_out)\n\n return x, {\"attn\": attn, \"inner_states\": inner_states}\n\n def max_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Maximum output length supported by the decoder.\"\"\"\n if self.embed_positions is None:\n return self.max_target_positions\n return min(self.max_target_positions, self.embed_positions.max_positions())\n\n def buffered_future_mask(self, tensor):\n dim = tensor.size(0)\n if (\n not hasattr(self, \"_future_mask\")\n or self._future_mask is None\n or self._future_mask.device != tensor.device\n ):\n self._future_mask = torch.triu(\n utils.fill_with_neg_inf(tensor.new(dim, dim)), 1\n )\n if self._future_mask.size(0) < dim:\n self._future_mask = torch.triu(\n utils.fill_with_neg_inf(self._future_mask.resize_(dim, dim)), 1\n )\n return self._future_mask[:dim, :dim]\n\n\nclass LightConvEncoderLayer(nn.Module):\n \"\"\"Encoder layer block.\n\n Args:\n args (argparse.Namespace): parsed command-line arguments\n kernel_size: kernel size of the convolution\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, args, kernel_size=0):\n super().__init__()\n self.embed_dim = args.encoder_embed_dim\n self.conv_dim = args.encoder_conv_dim\n padding_l = (\n kernel_size // 2\n if kernel_size % 2 == 1\n else ((kernel_size - 1) // 2, kernel_size // 2)\n )\n\n if args.encoder_glu:\n self.linear1 = Linear(self.embed_dim, 2 * self.conv_dim)\n self.act = nn.GLU()\n else:\n self.linear1 = Linear(self.embed_dim, self.conv_dim)\n self.act = None\n if args.encoder_conv_type == \"lightweight\":\n self.conv = LightweightConv(\n self.conv_dim,\n kernel_size,\n padding_l=padding_l,\n weight_softmax=args.weight_softmax,\n num_heads=args.encoder_attention_heads,\n weight_dropout=args.weight_dropout,\n )\n elif args.encoder_conv_type == \"dynamic\":\n self.conv = DynamicConv(\n self.conv_dim,\n kernel_size,\n padding_l=padding_l,\n weight_softmax=args.weight_softmax,\n num_heads=args.encoder_attention_heads,\n weight_dropout=args.weight_dropout,\n )\n else:\n raise NotImplementedError\n self.linear2 = Linear(self.conv_dim, self.embed_dim)\n\n self.dropout = args.dropout\n self.relu_dropout = args.relu_dropout\n self.input_dropout = args.input_dropout\n self.normalize_before = args.encoder_normalize_before\n self.fc1 = Linear(self.embed_dim, args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim)\n self.fc2 = Linear(args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim, self.embed_dim)\n self.layer_norms = nn.ModuleList([LayerNorm(self.embed_dim) for _ in range(2)])\n\n def forward(self, x, encoder_padding_mask):\n \"\"\"\n Args:\n x (Tensor): input to the layer of shape `(seq_len, batch, embed_dim)`\n encoder_padding_mask (ByteTensor): binary ByteTensor of shape\n `(batch, src_len)` where padding elements are indicated by ``1``.\n\n Returns:\n encoded output of shape `(batch, src_len, embed_dim)`\n \"\"\"\n residual = x\n x = self.maybe_layer_norm(0, x, before=True)\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.input_dropout, training=self.training)\n x = self.linear1(x)\n if self.act is not None:\n x = self.act(x)\n if encoder_padding_mask is not None:\n x = x.masked_fill(encoder_padding_mask.transpose(0, 1).unsqueeze(2), 0)\n x = self.conv(x)\n x = self.linear2(x)\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n x = residual + x\n x = self.maybe_layer_norm(0, x, after=True)\n\n residual = x\n x = self.maybe_layer_norm(1, x, before=True)\n x = F.relu(self.fc1(x))\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.relu_dropout, training=self.training)\n x = self.fc2(x)\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n x = residual + x\n x = self.maybe_layer_norm(1, x, after=True)\n return x\n\n def maybe_layer_norm(self, i, x, before=False, after=False):\n assert before ^ after\n if after ^ self.normalize_before:\n return self.layer_norms[i](x)\n else:\n return x\n\n def extra_repr(self):\n return \"dropout={}, relu_dropout={}, input_dropout={}, normalize_before={}\".format(\n self.dropout, self.relu_dropout, self.input_dropout, self.normalize_before\n )\n\n\nclass LightConvDecoderLayer(nn.Module):\n \"\"\"Decoder layer block.\n\n Args:\n args (argparse.Namespace): parsed command-line arguments\n no_encoder_attn (bool, optional): whether to attend to encoder outputs.\n Default: ``False``\n kernel_size: kernel size of the convolution\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, args, no_encoder_attn=False, kernel_size=0):\n super().__init__()\n self.embed_dim = args.decoder_embed_dim\n self.conv_dim = args.decoder_conv_dim\n if args.decoder_glu:\n self.linear1 = Linear(self.embed_dim, 2 * self.conv_dim)\n self.act = nn.GLU()\n else:\n self.linear1 = Linear(self.embed_dim, self.conv_dim)\n self.act = None\n if args.decoder_conv_type == \"lightweight\":\n self.conv = LightweightConv(\n self.conv_dim,\n kernel_size,\n padding_l=kernel_size - 1,\n weight_softmax=args.weight_softmax,\n num_heads=args.decoder_attention_heads,\n weight_dropout=args.weight_dropout,\n )\n elif args.decoder_conv_type == \"dynamic\":\n self.conv = DynamicConv(\n self.conv_dim,\n kernel_size,\n padding_l=kernel_size - 1,\n weight_softmax=args.weight_softmax,\n num_heads=args.decoder_attention_heads,\n weight_dropout=args.weight_dropout,\n )\n else:\n raise NotImplementedError\n self.linear2 = Linear(self.conv_dim, self.embed_dim)\n\n self.dropout = args.dropout\n self.relu_dropout = args.relu_dropout\n self.input_dropout = args.input_dropout\n self.normalize_before = args.decoder_normalize_before\n\n self.conv_layer_norm = LayerNorm(self.embed_dim)\n\n if no_encoder_attn:\n self.encoder_attn = None\n self.encoder_attn_layer_norm = None\n else:\n self.encoder_attn = MultiheadAttention(\n self.embed_dim,\n args.decoder_attention_heads,\n dropout=args.attention_dropout,\n encoder_decoder_attention=True,\n )\n self.encoder_attn_layer_norm = LayerNorm(self.embed_dim)\n\n self.fc1 = Linear(self.embed_dim, args.decoder_ffn_embed_dim)\n self.fc2 = Linear(args.decoder_ffn_embed_dim, self.embed_dim)\n\n self.final_layer_norm = LayerNorm(self.embed_dim)\n self.need_attn = True\n\n def forward(\n self,\n x,\n encoder_out,\n encoder_padding_mask,\n incremental_state,\n prev_conv_state=None,\n prev_attn_state=None,\n conv_mask=None,\n conv_padding_mask=None,\n ):\n \"\"\"\n Args:\n x (Tensor): input to the layer of shape `(seq_len, batch, embed_dim)`\n encoder_padding_mask (ByteTensor): binary ByteTensor of shape\n `(batch, src_len)` where padding elements are indicated by ``1``.\n\n Returns:\n encoded output of shape `(batch, src_len, embed_dim)`\n \"\"\"\n residual = x\n x = self.maybe_layer_norm(self.conv_layer_norm, x, before=True)\n if prev_conv_state is not None:\n if incremental_state is None:\n incremental_state = {}\n self.conv._set_input_buffer(incremental_state, prev_conv_state)\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.input_dropout, training=self.training)\n x = self.linear1(x)\n if self.act is not None:\n x = self.act(x)\n x = self.conv(x, incremental_state=incremental_state)\n x = self.linear2(x)\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n x = residual + x\n x = self.maybe_layer_norm(self.conv_layer_norm, x, after=True)\n\n attn = None\n if self.encoder_attn is not None:\n residual = x\n x = self.maybe_layer_norm(self.encoder_attn_layer_norm, x, before=True)\n if prev_attn_state is not None:\n if incremental_state is None:\n incremental_state = {}\n prev_key, prev_value = prev_attn_state\n saved_state = {\"prev_key\": prev_key, \"prev_value\": prev_value}\n self.encoder_attn._set_input_buffer(incremental_state, saved_state)\n x, attn = self.encoder_attn(\n query=x,\n key=encoder_out,\n value=encoder_out,\n key_padding_mask=encoder_padding_mask,\n incremental_state=incremental_state,\n static_kv=True,\n need_weights=(not self.training and self.need_attn),\n )\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n x = residual + x\n x = self.maybe_layer_norm(self.encoder_attn_layer_norm, x, after=True)\n\n residual = x\n x = self.maybe_layer_norm(self.final_layer_norm, x, before=True)\n x = F.relu(self.fc1(x))\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.relu_dropout, training=self.training)\n x = self.fc2(x)\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n x = residual + x\n x = self.maybe_layer_norm(self.final_layer_norm, x, after=True)\n return x, attn\n\n def maybe_layer_norm(self, layer_norm, x, before=False, after=False):\n assert before ^ after\n if after ^ self.normalize_before:\n return layer_norm(x)\n else:\n return x\n\n def make_generation_fast_(self, need_attn=False, **kwargs):\n self.need_attn = need_attn\n\n def extra_repr(self):\n return \"dropout={}, relu_dropout={}, input_dropout={}, normalize_before={}\".format(\n self.dropout, self.relu_dropout, self.input_dropout, self.normalize_before\n )\n\n\ndef Embedding(num_embeddings, embedding_dim, padding_idx):\n m = nn.Embedding(num_embeddings, embedding_dim, padding_idx=padding_idx)\n nn.init.normal_(m.weight, mean=0, std=embedding_dim ** -0.5)\n nn.init.constant_(m.weight[padding_idx], 0)\n return m\n\n\ndef Linear(in_features, out_features, bias=True):\n m = nn.Linear(in_features, out_features, bias)\n nn.init.xavier_uniform_(m.weight)\n if bias:\n nn.init.constant_(m.bias, 0.0)\n return m\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"lightconv\", \"lightconv\")\ndef base_architecture(args):\n args.encoder_embed_path = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_path\", None)\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", 512)\n args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 2048)\n args.encoder_layers = getattr(args, \"encoder_layers\", 7)\n args.encoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"encoder_attention_heads\", 8)\n args.encoder_normalize_before = getattr(args, \"encoder_normalize_before\", False)\n args.encoder_learned_pos = getattr(args, \"encoder_learned_pos\", False)\n args.decoder_embed_path = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_path\", None)\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", args.encoder_embed_dim)\n args.decoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(\n args, \"decoder_ffn_embed_dim\", args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim\n )\n args.decoder_layers = getattr(args, \"decoder_layers\", 6)\n args.decoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"decoder_attention_heads\", 8)\n args.decoder_normalize_before = getattr(args, \"decoder_normalize_before\", False)\n args.decoder_learned_pos = getattr(args, \"decoder_learned_pos\", False)\n args.attention_dropout = getattr(args, \"attention_dropout\", 0.0)\n args.relu_dropout = getattr(args, \"relu_dropout\", 0.0)\n args.dropout = getattr(args, \"dropout\", 0.1)\n args.adaptive_softmax_cutoff = getattr(args, \"adaptive_softmax_cutoff\", None)\n args.adaptive_softmax_dropout = getattr(args, \"adaptive_softmax_dropout\", 0)\n args.share_decoder_input_output_embed = getattr(\n args, \"share_decoder_input_output_embed\", False\n )\n args.share_all_embeddings = getattr(args, \"share_all_embeddings\", False)\n args.no_token_positional_embeddings = getattr(\n args, \"no_token_positional_embeddings\", False\n )\n\n args.decoder_output_dim = getattr(\n args, \"decoder_output_dim\", args.decoder_embed_dim\n )\n args.decoder_input_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_input_dim\", args.decoder_embed_dim)\n\n args.encoder_conv_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_conv_dim\", args.encoder_embed_dim)\n args.decoder_conv_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_conv_dim\", args.decoder_embed_dim)\n\n args.encoder_kernel_size_list = getattr(\n args, \"encoder_kernel_size_list\", [3, 7, 15, 31, 31, 31, 31]\n )\n args.decoder_kernel_size_list = getattr(\n args, \"decoder_kernel_size_list\", [3, 7, 15, 31, 31, 31]\n )\n if len(args.encoder_kernel_size_list) == 1:\n args.encoder_kernel_size_list = (\n args.encoder_kernel_size_list * args.encoder_layers\n )\n if len(args.decoder_kernel_size_list) == 1:\n args.decoder_kernel_size_list = (\n args.decoder_kernel_size_list * args.decoder_layers\n )\n assert (\n len(args.encoder_kernel_size_list) == args.encoder_layers\n ), \"encoder_kernel_size_list doesn't match encoder_layers\"\n assert (\n len(args.decoder_kernel_size_list) == args.decoder_layers\n ), \"decoder_kernel_size_list doesn't match decoder_layers\"\n args.encoder_glu = getattr(args, \"encoder_glu\", True)\n args.decoder_glu = getattr(args, \"decoder_glu\", True)\n args.input_dropout = getattr(args, \"input_dropout\", 0.1)\n args.weight_dropout = getattr(args, \"weight_dropout\", args.attention_dropout)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"lightconv\", \"lightconv_iwslt_de_en\")\ndef lightconv_iwslt_de_en(args):\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", 512)\n args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 1024)\n args.encoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"encoder_attention_heads\", 4)\n args.encoder_layers = getattr(args, \"encoder_layers\", 7)\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", 512)\n args.decoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 1024)\n args.decoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"decoder_attention_heads\", 4)\n args.decoder_layers = getattr(args, \"decoder_layers\", 6)\n args.attention_dropout = getattr(args, \"attention_dropout\", 0.1)\n args.weight_dropout = getattr(args, \"weight_dropout\", 0.1)\n args.encoder_glu = getattr(args, \"encoder_glu\", False)\n args.decoder_glu = getattr(args, \"decoder_glu\", False)\n args.input_dropout = getattr(args, \"input_dropout\", 0.0)\n base_architecture(args)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"lightconv\", \"lightconv_wmt_en_de\")\ndef lightconv_wmt_en_de(args):\n base_architecture(args)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"lightconv\", \"lightconv_wmt_en_de_big\")\ndef lightconv_wmt_en_de_big(args):\n args.attention_dropout = getattr(args, \"attention_dropout\", 0.1)\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", 1024)\n args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 4096)\n args.encoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"encoder_attention_heads\", 16)\n args.encoder_normalize_before = getattr(args, \"encoder_normalize_before\", False)\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", 1024)\n args.decoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 4096)\n args.decoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"decoder_attention_heads\", 16)\n args.dropout = getattr(args, \"dropout\", 0.3)\n base_architecture(args)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"lightconv\", \"lightconv_wmt_en_fr_big\")\ndef lightconv_wmt_en_fr_big(args):\n args.dropout = getattr(args, \"dropout\", 0.1)\n lightconv_wmt_en_de_big(args)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"lightconv\", \"lightconv_wmt_zh_en_big\")\ndef lightconv_wmt_zh_en_big(args):\n args.dropout = getattr(args, \"dropout\", 0.2)\n args.attention_dropout = getattr(args, \"attention_dropout\", 0.2)\n args.weight_dropout = getattr(args, \"weight_dropout\", 0.2)\n lightconv_wmt_en_de_big(args)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/lightconv_lm.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom fairseq import options\nfrom fairseq.models import (\n FairseqLanguageModel,\n register_model,\n register_model_architecture,\n)\nfrom fairseq.models.lightconv import (\n Embedding,\n LightConvDecoder,\n)\nfrom fairseq.modules import (\n AdaptiveInput,\n CharacterTokenEmbedder,\n)\n\n\n@register_model(\"lightconv_lm\")\nclass LightConvLanguageModel(FairseqLanguageModel):\n def __init__(self, decoder):\n super().__init__(decoder)\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add model-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--dropout\",\n default=0.1,\n type=float,\n metavar=\"D\",\n help=\"dropout probability\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--attention-dropout\",\n default=0.0,\n type=float,\n metavar=\"D\",\n help=\"dropout probability for attention weights\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--relu-dropout\",\n default=0.0,\n type=float,\n metavar=\"D\",\n help=\"dropout probability after ReLU in FFN\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--input-dropout\",\n type=float,\n metavar=\"D\",\n help=\"dropout probability of the inputs\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--decoder-embed-dim\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"decoder embedding dimension\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--decoder-output-dim\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"decoder output dimension\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--decoder-input-dim\", type=int, metavar=\"N\", help=\"decoder input dimension\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--decoder-ffn-embed-dim\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"decoder embedding dimension for FFN\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--decoder-layers\", type=int, metavar=\"N\", help=\"num decoder layers\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--decoder-attention-heads\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"num decoder attention heads or LightConv/DynamicConv heads\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--decoder-normalize-before\",\n default=False,\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"apply layernorm before each decoder block\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--adaptive-softmax-cutoff\",\n metavar=\"EXPR\",\n help=\"comma separated list of adaptive softmax cutoff points. \"\n \"Must be used with adaptive_loss criterion\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--adaptive-softmax-dropout\",\n type=float,\n metavar=\"D\",\n help=\"sets adaptive softmax dropout for the tail projections\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--adaptive-softmax-factor\",\n type=float,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"adaptive input factor\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--no-token-positional-embeddings\",\n default=False,\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"if set, disables positional embeddings (outside self attention)\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--share-decoder-input-output-embed\",\n default=False,\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"share decoder input and output embeddings\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--character-embeddings\",\n default=False,\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"if set, uses character embedding convolutions to produce token embeddings\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--character-filters\",\n type=str,\n metavar=\"LIST\",\n default=\"[(1, 64), (2, 128), (3, 192), (4, 256), (5, 256), (6, 256), (7, 256)]\",\n help=\"size of character embeddings\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--character-embedding-dim\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n default=4,\n help=\"size of character embeddings\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--char-embedder-highway-layers\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n default=2,\n help=\"number of highway layers for character token embeddder\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--adaptive-input\",\n default=False,\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"if set, uses adaptive input\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--adaptive-input-factor\",\n type=float,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"adaptive input factor\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--adaptive-input-cutoff\",\n metavar=\"EXPR\",\n help=\"comma separated list of adaptive input cutoff points.\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--tie-adaptive-weights\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"if set, ties the weights of adaptive softmax and adaptive input\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--tie-adaptive-proj\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"if set, ties the projection weights of adaptive softmax and adaptive input\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--decoder-learned-pos\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"use learned positional embeddings in the decoder\",\n )\n\n \"\"\"LightConv and DynamicConv arguments\"\"\"\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--decoder-kernel-size-list\",\n type=lambda x: options.eval_str_list(x, int),\n help='list of kernel size (default: \"[3,7,15,31,31,31]\")',\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--decoder-glu\", type=options.eval_bool, help=\"glu after in proj\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--decoder-conv-type\",\n default=\"dynamic\",\n type=str,\n choices=[\"dynamic\", \"lightweight\"],\n help=\"type of convolution\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\"--weight-softmax\", default=True, type=options.eval_bool)\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--weight-dropout\",\n type=float,\n metavar=\"D\",\n help=\"dropout probability for conv weights\",\n )\n\n @classmethod\n def build_model(cls, args, task):\n \"\"\"Build a new model instance.\"\"\"\n\n # make sure all arguments are present in older models\n base_lm_architecture(args)\n\n if getattr(args, \"max_source_positions\", None) is None:\n args.max_source_positions = args.tokens_per_sample\n if getattr(args, \"max_target_positions\", None) is None:\n args.max_target_positions = args.tokens_per_sample\n\n if args.character_embeddings:\n embed_tokens = CharacterTokenEmbedder(\n task.dictionary,\n eval(args.character_filters),\n args.character_embedding_dim,\n args.decoder_embed_dim,\n args.char_embedder_highway_layers,\n )\n elif args.adaptive_input:\n embed_tokens = AdaptiveInput(\n len(task.dictionary),\n task.dictionary.pad(),\n args.decoder_input_dim,\n args.adaptive_input_factor,\n args.decoder_embed_dim,\n options.eval_str_list(args.adaptive_input_cutoff, type=int),\n )\n else:\n embed_tokens = Embedding(\n len(task.dictionary), args.decoder_input_dim, task.dictionary.pad()\n )\n\n if args.tie_adaptive_weights:\n assert args.adaptive_input\n assert args.adaptive_input_factor == args.adaptive_softmax_factor\n assert (\n args.adaptive_softmax_cutoff == args.adaptive_input_cutoff\n ), \"{} != {}\".format(\n args.adaptive_softmax_cutoff, args.adaptive_input_cutoff\n )\n assert args.decoder_input_dim == args.decoder_output_dim\n\n decoder = LightConvDecoder(\n args,\n task.output_dictionary,\n embed_tokens,\n no_encoder_attn=True,\n final_norm=False,\n )\n return LightConvLanguageModel(decoder)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"lightconv_lm\", \"lightconv_lm\")\ndef base_lm_architecture(args):\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", 512)\n args.decoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 2048)\n args.decoder_layers = getattr(args, \"decoder_layers\", 6)\n args.decoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"decoder_attention_heads\", 8)\n args.adaptive_softmax_cutoff = getattr(args, \"adaptive_softmax_cutoff\", None)\n args.adaptive_softmax_dropout = getattr(args, \"adaptive_softmax_dropout\", 0)\n args.adaptive_softmax_factor = getattr(args, \"adaptive_softmax_factor\", 4)\n args.decoder_learned_pos = getattr(args, \"decoder_learned_pos\", False)\n\n args.character_embeddings = getattr(args, \"character_embeddings\", False)\n\n args.decoder_output_dim = getattr(\n args, \"decoder_output_dim\", args.decoder_embed_dim\n )\n args.decoder_input_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_input_dim\", args.decoder_embed_dim)\n args.decoder_conv_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_conv_dim\", args.decoder_embed_dim)\n\n # The model training is not stable without this\n args.decoder_normalize_before = True\n\n args.adaptive_input = getattr(args, \"adaptive_input\", False)\n args.adaptive_input_factor = getattr(args, \"adaptive_input_factor\", 4)\n args.adaptive_input_cutoff = getattr(args, \"adaptive_input_cutoff\", None)\n\n args.tie_adaptive_weights = getattr(args, \"tie_adaptive_weights\", False)\n args.tie_adaptive_proj = getattr(args, \"tie_adaptive_proj\", False)\n\n args.decoder_kernel_size_list = getattr(\n args, \"decoder_kernel_size_list\", [3, 7, 15, 31, 31, 31]\n )\n if len(args.decoder_kernel_size_list) == 1:\n args.decoder_kernel_size_list = (\n args.decoder_kernel_size_list * args.decoder_layers\n )\n assert (\n len(args.decoder_kernel_size_list) == args.decoder_layers\n ), \"decoder_kernel_size_list doesn't match decoder_layers\"\n args.decoder_glu = getattr(args, \"decoder_glu\", True)\n args.input_dropout = getattr(args, \"input_dropout\", 0.1)\n args.weight_dropout = getattr(args, \"weight_dropout\", args.attention_dropout)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"lightconv_lm\", \"lightconv_lm_gbw\")\ndef lightconv_lm_gbw(args):\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", 512)\n args.dropout = getattr(args, \"dropout\", 0.1)\n args.attention_dropout = getattr(args, \"attention_dropout\", 0.1)\n args.decoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 4096)\n args.decoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"decoder_attention_heads\", 16)\n base_lm_architecture(args)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/lstm.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn as nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom fairseq import options, utils\nfrom fairseq.models import (\n FairseqEncoder,\n FairseqIncrementalDecoder,\n FairseqEncoderDecoderModel,\n register_model,\n register_model_architecture,\n)\nfrom fairseq.modules import AdaptiveSoftmax\n\n\n@register_model(\"lstm\")\nclass LSTMModel(FairseqEncoderDecoderModel):\n def __init__(self, encoder, decoder):\n super().__init__(encoder, decoder)\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add model-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument('--dropout', type=float, metavar='D',\n help='dropout probability')\n parser.add_argument('--encoder-embed-dim', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='encoder embedding dimension')\n parser.add_argument('--encoder-embed-path', type=str, metavar='STR',\n help='path to pre-trained encoder embedding')\n parser.add_argument('--encoder-freeze-embed', action='store_true',\n help='freeze encoder embeddings')\n parser.add_argument('--encoder-hidden-size', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='encoder hidden size')\n parser.add_argument('--encoder-layers', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='number of encoder layers')\n parser.add_argument('--encoder-bidirectional', action='store_true',\n help='make all layers of encoder bidirectional')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-embed-dim', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='decoder embedding dimension')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-embed-path', type=str, metavar='STR',\n help='path to pre-trained decoder embedding')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-freeze-embed', action='store_true',\n help='freeze decoder embeddings')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-hidden-size', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='decoder hidden size')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-layers', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='number of decoder layers')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-out-embed-dim', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='decoder output embedding dimension')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-attention', type=str, metavar='BOOL',\n help='decoder attention')\n parser.add_argument('--adaptive-softmax-cutoff', metavar='EXPR',\n help='comma separated list of adaptive softmax cutoff points. '\n 'Must be used with adaptive_loss criterion')\n parser.add_argument('--share-decoder-input-output-embed', default=False,\n action='store_true',\n help='share decoder input and output embeddings')\n parser.add_argument('--share-all-embeddings', default=False, action='store_true',\n help='share encoder, decoder and output embeddings'\n ' (requires shared dictionary and embed dim)')\n\n # Granular dropout settings (if not specified these default to --dropout)\n parser.add_argument('--encoder-dropout-in', type=float, metavar='D',\n help='dropout probability for encoder input embedding')\n parser.add_argument('--encoder-dropout-out', type=float, metavar='D',\n help='dropout probability for encoder output')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-dropout-in', type=float, metavar='D',\n help='dropout probability for decoder input embedding')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-dropout-out', type=float, metavar='D',\n help='dropout probability for decoder output')\n # fmt: on\n\n @classmethod\n def build_model(cls, args, task):\n \"\"\"Build a new model instance.\"\"\"\n # make sure that all args are properly defaulted (in case there are any new ones)\n base_architecture(args)\n\n if args.encoder_layers != args.decoder_layers:\n raise ValueError(\"--encoder-layers must match --decoder-layers\")\n\n def load_pretrained_embedding_from_file(embed_path, dictionary, embed_dim):\n num_embeddings = len(dictionary)\n padding_idx = dictionary.pad()\n embed_tokens = Embedding(num_embeddings, embed_dim, padding_idx)\n embed_dict = utils.parse_embedding(embed_path)\n utils.print_embed_overlap(embed_dict, dictionary)\n return utils.load_embedding(embed_dict, dictionary, embed_tokens)\n\n if args.encoder_embed_path:\n pretrained_encoder_embed = load_pretrained_embedding_from_file(\n args.encoder_embed_path, task.source_dictionary, args.encoder_embed_dim\n )\n else:\n num_embeddings = len(task.source_dictionary)\n pretrained_encoder_embed = Embedding(\n num_embeddings, args.encoder_embed_dim, task.source_dictionary.pad()\n )\n\n if args.share_all_embeddings:\n # double check all parameters combinations are valid\n if task.source_dictionary != task.target_dictionary:\n raise ValueError(\"--share-all-embeddings requires a joint dictionary\")\n if args.decoder_embed_path and (\n args.decoder_embed_path != args.encoder_embed_path\n ):\n raise ValueError(\n \"--share-all-embed not compatible with --decoder-embed-path\"\n )\n if args.encoder_embed_dim != args.decoder_embed_dim:\n raise ValueError(\n \"--share-all-embeddings requires --encoder-embed-dim to \"\n \"match --decoder-embed-dim\"\n )\n pretrained_decoder_embed = pretrained_encoder_embed\n args.share_decoder_input_output_embed = True\n else:\n # separate decoder input embeddings\n pretrained_decoder_embed = None\n if args.decoder_embed_path:\n pretrained_decoder_embed = load_pretrained_embedding_from_file(\n args.decoder_embed_path,\n task.target_dictionary,\n args.decoder_embed_dim,\n )\n # one last double check of parameter combinations\n if args.share_decoder_input_output_embed and (\n args.decoder_embed_dim != args.decoder_out_embed_dim\n ):\n raise ValueError(\n \"--share-decoder-input-output-embeddings requires \"\n \"--decoder-embed-dim to match --decoder-out-embed-dim\"\n )\n\n if args.encoder_freeze_embed:\n pretrained_encoder_embed.weight.requires_grad = False\n if args.decoder_freeze_embed:\n pretrained_decoder_embed.weight.requires_grad = False\n\n encoder = LSTMEncoder(\n dictionary=task.source_dictionary,\n embed_dim=args.encoder_embed_dim,\n hidden_size=args.encoder_hidden_size,\n num_layers=args.encoder_layers,\n dropout_in=args.encoder_dropout_in,\n dropout_out=args.encoder_dropout_out,\n bidirectional=args.encoder_bidirectional,\n pretrained_embed=pretrained_encoder_embed,\n )\n decoder = LSTMDecoder(\n dictionary=task.target_dictionary,\n embed_dim=args.decoder_embed_dim,\n hidden_size=args.decoder_hidden_size,\n out_embed_dim=args.decoder_out_embed_dim,\n num_layers=args.decoder_layers,\n dropout_in=args.decoder_dropout_in,\n dropout_out=args.decoder_dropout_out,\n attention=options.eval_bool(args.decoder_attention),\n encoder_output_units=encoder.output_units,\n pretrained_embed=pretrained_decoder_embed,\n share_input_output_embed=args.share_decoder_input_output_embed,\n adaptive_softmax_cutoff=(\n options.eval_str_list(args.adaptive_softmax_cutoff, type=int)\n if args.criterion == \"adaptive_loss\"\n else None\n ),\n )\n return cls(encoder, decoder)\n\n\nclass LSTMEncoder(FairseqEncoder):\n \"\"\"LSTM encoder.\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self,\n dictionary,\n embed_dim=512,\n hidden_size=512,\n num_layers=1,\n dropout_in=0.1,\n dropout_out=0.1,\n bidirectional=False,\n left_pad=True,\n pretrained_embed=None,\n padding_value=0.0,\n ):\n super().__init__(dictionary)\n self.num_layers = num_layers\n self.dropout_in = dropout_in\n self.dropout_out = dropout_out\n self.bidirectional = bidirectional\n self.hidden_size = hidden_size\n\n num_embeddings = len(dictionary)\n self.padding_idx = dictionary.pad()\n if pretrained_embed is None:\n self.embed_tokens = Embedding(num_embeddings, embed_dim, self.padding_idx)\n else:\n self.embed_tokens = pretrained_embed\n\n self.lstm = LSTM(\n input_size=embed_dim,\n hidden_size=hidden_size,\n num_layers=num_layers,\n dropout=self.dropout_out if num_layers > 1 else 0.0,\n bidirectional=bidirectional,\n )\n self.left_pad = left_pad\n self.padding_value = padding_value\n\n self.output_units = hidden_size\n if bidirectional:\n self.output_units *= 2\n\n def forward(self, src_tokens, src_lengths):\n if self.left_pad:\n # nn.utils.rnn.pack_padded_sequence requires right-padding;\n # convert left-padding to right-padding\n src_tokens = utils.convert_padding_direction(\n src_tokens, self.padding_idx, left_to_right=True,\n )\n\n bsz, seqlen = src_tokens.size()\n\n # embed tokens\n x = self.embed_tokens(src_tokens)\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout_in, training=self.training)\n\n # B x T x C -> T x B x C\n x = x.transpose(0, 1)\n\n # pack embedded source tokens into a PackedSequence\n packed_x = nn.utils.rnn.pack_padded_sequence(x, src_lengths.data.tolist())\n\n # apply LSTM\n if self.bidirectional:\n state_size = 2 * self.num_layers, bsz, self.hidden_size\n else:\n state_size = self.num_layers, bsz, self.hidden_size\n h0 = x.new_zeros(*state_size)\n c0 = x.new_zeros(*state_size)\n packed_outs, (final_hiddens, final_cells) = self.lstm(packed_x, (h0, c0))\n\n # unpack outputs and apply dropout\n x, _ = nn.utils.rnn.pad_packed_sequence(\n packed_outs, padding_value=self.padding_value\n )\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout_out, training=self.training)\n assert list(x.size()) == [seqlen, bsz, self.output_units]\n\n if self.bidirectional:\n\n def combine_bidir(outs):\n out = (\n outs.view(self.num_layers, 2, bsz, -1).transpose(1, 2).contiguous()\n )\n return out.view(self.num_layers, bsz, -1)\n\n final_hiddens = combine_bidir(final_hiddens)\n final_cells = combine_bidir(final_cells)\n\n encoder_padding_mask = src_tokens.eq(self.padding_idx).t()\n\n return {\n \"encoder_out\": (x, final_hiddens, final_cells),\n \"encoder_padding_mask\": encoder_padding_mask\n if encoder_padding_mask.any()\n else None,\n }\n\n def reorder_encoder_out(self, encoder_out, new_order):\n encoder_out[\"encoder_out\"] = tuple(\n eo.index_select(1, new_order) for eo in encoder_out[\"encoder_out\"]\n )\n if encoder_out[\"encoder_padding_mask\"] is not None:\n encoder_out[\"encoder_padding_mask\"] = encoder_out[\n \"encoder_padding_mask\"\n ].index_select(1, new_order)\n return encoder_out\n\n def max_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Maximum input length supported by the encoder.\"\"\"\n return int(1e5) # an arbitrary large number\n\n\nclass AttentionLayer(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, input_embed_dim, source_embed_dim, output_embed_dim, bias=False):\n super().__init__()\n\n self.input_proj = Linear(input_embed_dim, source_embed_dim, bias=bias)\n self.output_proj = Linear(\n input_embed_dim + source_embed_dim, output_embed_dim, bias=bias\n )\n\n def forward(self, input, source_hids, encoder_padding_mask):\n # input: bsz x input_embed_dim\n # source_hids: srclen x bsz x source_embed_dim\n\n # x: bsz x source_embed_dim\n x = self.input_proj(input)\n\n # compute attention\n attn_scores = (source_hids * x.unsqueeze(0)).sum(dim=2)\n\n # don't attend over padding\n if encoder_padding_mask is not None:\n attn_scores = (\n attn_scores.float()\n .masked_fill_(encoder_padding_mask, float(\"-inf\"))\n .type_as(attn_scores)\n ) # FP16 support: cast to float and back\n\n attn_scores = F.softmax(attn_scores, dim=0) # srclen x bsz\n\n # sum weighted sources\n x = (attn_scores.unsqueeze(2) * source_hids).sum(dim=0)\n\n x = torch.tanh(self.output_proj(torch.cat((x, input), dim=1)))\n return x, attn_scores\n\n\nclass LSTMDecoder(FairseqIncrementalDecoder):\n \"\"\"LSTM decoder.\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self,\n dictionary,\n embed_dim=512,\n hidden_size=512,\n out_embed_dim=512,\n num_layers=1,\n dropout_in=0.1,\n dropout_out=0.1,\n attention=True,\n encoder_output_units=512,\n pretrained_embed=None,\n share_input_output_embed=False,\n adaptive_softmax_cutoff=None,\n ):\n super().__init__(dictionary)\n self.dropout_in = dropout_in\n self.dropout_out = dropout_out\n self.hidden_size = hidden_size\n self.share_input_output_embed = share_input_output_embed\n self.need_attn = True\n\n self.adaptive_softmax = None\n num_embeddings = len(dictionary)\n padding_idx = dictionary.pad()\n if pretrained_embed is None:\n self.embed_tokens = Embedding(num_embeddings, embed_dim, padding_idx)\n else:\n self.embed_tokens = pretrained_embed\n\n self.encoder_output_units = encoder_output_units\n if encoder_output_units != hidden_size:\n self.encoder_hidden_proj = Linear(encoder_output_units, hidden_size)\n self.encoder_cell_proj = Linear(encoder_output_units, hidden_size)\n else:\n self.encoder_hidden_proj = self.encoder_cell_proj = None\n self.layers = nn.ModuleList(\n [\n LSTMCell(\n input_size=hidden_size + embed_dim if layer == 0 else hidden_size,\n hidden_size=hidden_size,\n )\n for layer in range(num_layers)\n ]\n )\n if attention:\n # TODO make bias configurable\n self.attention = AttentionLayer(\n hidden_size, encoder_output_units, hidden_size, bias=False\n )\n else:\n self.attention = None\n if hidden_size != out_embed_dim:\n self.additional_fc = Linear(hidden_size, out_embed_dim)\n if adaptive_softmax_cutoff is not None:\n # setting adaptive_softmax dropout to dropout_out for now but can be redefined\n self.adaptive_softmax = AdaptiveSoftmax(\n num_embeddings,\n hidden_size,\n adaptive_softmax_cutoff,\n dropout=dropout_out,\n )\n elif not self.share_input_output_embed:\n self.fc_out = Linear(out_embed_dim, num_embeddings, dropout=dropout_out)\n\n def forward(self, prev_output_tokens, encoder_out, incremental_state=None):\n x, attn_scores = self.extract_features(\n prev_output_tokens, encoder_out, incremental_state\n )\n return self.output_layer(x), attn_scores\n\n def extract_features(self, prev_output_tokens, encoder_out, incremental_state=None):\n \"\"\"\n Similar to *forward* but only return features.\n \"\"\"\n encoder_padding_mask = encoder_out[\"encoder_padding_mask\"]\n encoder_out = encoder_out[\"encoder_out\"]\n\n if incremental_state is not None:\n prev_output_tokens = prev_output_tokens[:, -1:]\n bsz, seqlen = prev_output_tokens.size()\n\n # get outputs from encoder\n encoder_outs, encoder_hiddens, encoder_cells = encoder_out[:3]\n srclen = encoder_outs.size(0)\n\n # embed tokens\n x = self.embed_tokens(prev_output_tokens)\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout_in, training=self.training)\n\n # B x T x C -> T x B x C\n x = x.transpose(0, 1)\n\n # initialize previous states (or get from cache during incremental generation)\n cached_state = utils.get_incremental_state(\n self, incremental_state, \"cached_state\"\n )\n if cached_state is not None:\n prev_hiddens, prev_cells, input_feed = cached_state\n else:\n num_layers = len(self.layers)\n prev_hiddens = [encoder_hiddens[i] for i in range(num_layers)]\n prev_cells = [encoder_cells[i] for i in range(num_layers)]\n if self.encoder_hidden_proj is not None:\n prev_hiddens = [self.encoder_hidden_proj(x) for x in prev_hiddens]\n prev_cells = [self.encoder_cell_proj(x) for x in prev_cells]\n input_feed = x.new_zeros(bsz, self.hidden_size)\n\n attn_scores = x.new_zeros(srclen, seqlen, bsz)\n outs = []\n for j in range(seqlen):\n # input feeding: concatenate context vector from previous time step\n input = torch.cat((x[j, :, :], input_feed), dim=1)\n\n for i, rnn in enumerate(self.layers):\n # recurrent cell\n hidden, cell = rnn(input, (prev_hiddens[i], prev_cells[i]))\n\n # hidden state becomes the input to the next layer\n input = F.dropout(hidden, p=self.dropout_out, training=self.training)\n\n # save state for next time step\n prev_hiddens[i] = hidden\n prev_cells[i] = cell\n\n # apply attention using the last layer's hidden state\n if self.attention is not None:\n out, attn_scores[:, j, :] = self.attention(\n hidden, encoder_outs, encoder_padding_mask\n )\n else:\n out = hidden\n out = F.dropout(out, p=self.dropout_out, training=self.training)\n\n # input feeding\n input_feed = out\n\n # save final output\n outs.append(out)\n\n # cache previous states (no-op except during incremental generation)\n utils.set_incremental_state(\n self,\n incremental_state,\n \"cached_state\",\n (prev_hiddens, prev_cells, input_feed),\n )\n\n # collect outputs across time steps\n x = torch.cat(outs, dim=0).view(seqlen, bsz, self.hidden_size)\n\n # T x B x C -> B x T x C\n x = x.transpose(1, 0)\n\n if hasattr(self, \"additional_fc\") and self.adaptive_softmax is None:\n x = self.additional_fc(x)\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout_out, training=self.training)\n\n # srclen x tgtlen x bsz -> bsz x tgtlen x srclen\n if not self.training and self.need_attn:\n attn_scores = attn_scores.transpose(0, 2)\n else:\n attn_scores = None\n return x, attn_scores\n\n def output_layer(self, x):\n \"\"\"Project features to the vocabulary size.\"\"\"\n if self.adaptive_softmax is None:\n if self.share_input_output_embed:\n x = F.linear(x, self.embed_tokens.weight)\n else:\n x = self.fc_out(x)\n return x\n\n def reorder_incremental_state(self, incremental_state, new_order):\n super().reorder_incremental_state(incremental_state, new_order)\n cached_state = utils.get_incremental_state(\n self, incremental_state, \"cached_state\"\n )\n if cached_state is None:\n return\n\n def reorder_state(state):\n if isinstance(state, list):\n return [reorder_state(state_i) for state_i in state]\n return state.index_select(0, new_order)\n\n new_state = tuple(map(reorder_state, cached_state))\n utils.set_incremental_state(self, incremental_state, \"cached_state\", new_state)\n\n def max_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Maximum output length supported by the decoder.\"\"\"\n return int(1e5) # an arbitrary large number\n\n def make_generation_fast_(self, need_attn=False, **kwargs):\n self.need_attn = need_attn\n\n\ndef Embedding(num_embeddings, embedding_dim, padding_idx):\n m = nn.Embedding(num_embeddings, embedding_dim, padding_idx=padding_idx)\n nn.init.uniform_(m.weight, -0.1, 0.1)\n nn.init.constant_(m.weight[padding_idx], 0)\n return m\n\n\ndef LSTM(input_size, hidden_size, **kwargs):\n m = nn.LSTM(input_size, hidden_size, **kwargs)\n for name, param in m.named_parameters():\n if \"weight\" in name or \"bias\" in name:\n param.data.uniform_(-0.1, 0.1)\n return m\n\n\ndef LSTMCell(input_size, hidden_size, **kwargs):\n m = nn.LSTMCell(input_size, hidden_size, **kwargs)\n for name, param in m.named_parameters():\n if \"weight\" in name or \"bias\" in name:\n param.data.uniform_(-0.1, 0.1)\n return m\n\n\ndef Linear(in_features, out_features, bias=True, dropout=0):\n \"\"\"Linear layer (input: N x T x C)\"\"\"\n m = nn.Linear(in_features, out_features, bias=bias)\n m.weight.data.uniform_(-0.1, 0.1)\n if bias:\n m.bias.data.uniform_(-0.1, 0.1)\n return m\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"lstm\", \"lstm\")\ndef base_architecture(args):\n args.dropout = getattr(args, \"dropout\", 0.1)\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", 512)\n args.encoder_embed_path = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_path\", None)\n args.encoder_freeze_embed = getattr(args, \"encoder_freeze_embed\", False)\n args.encoder_hidden_size = getattr(\n args, \"encoder_hidden_size\", args.encoder_embed_dim\n )\n args.encoder_layers = getattr(args, \"encoder_layers\", 1)\n args.encoder_bidirectional = getattr(args, \"encoder_bidirectional\", False)\n args.encoder_dropout_in = getattr(args, \"encoder_dropout_in\", args.dropout)\n args.encoder_dropout_out = getattr(args, \"encoder_dropout_out\", args.dropout)\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", 512)\n args.decoder_embed_path = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_path\", None)\n args.decoder_freeze_embed = getattr(args, \"decoder_freeze_embed\", False)\n args.decoder_hidden_size = getattr(\n args, \"decoder_hidden_size\", args.decoder_embed_dim\n )\n args.decoder_layers = getattr(args, \"decoder_layers\", 1)\n args.decoder_out_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_out_embed_dim\", 512)\n args.decoder_attention = getattr(args, \"decoder_attention\", \"1\")\n args.decoder_dropout_in = getattr(args, \"decoder_dropout_in\", args.dropout)\n args.decoder_dropout_out = getattr(args, \"decoder_dropout_out\", args.dropout)\n args.share_decoder_input_output_embed = getattr(\n args, \"share_decoder_input_output_embed\", False\n )\n args.share_all_embeddings = getattr(args, \"share_all_embeddings\", False)\n args.adaptive_softmax_cutoff = getattr(\n args, \"adaptive_softmax_cutoff\", \"10000,50000,200000\"\n )\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"lstm\", \"lstm_wiseman_iwslt_de_en\")\ndef lstm_wiseman_iwslt_de_en(args):\n args.dropout = getattr(args, \"dropout\", 0.1)\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", 256)\n args.encoder_dropout_in = getattr(args, \"encoder_dropout_in\", 0)\n args.encoder_dropout_out = getattr(args, \"encoder_dropout_out\", 0)\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", 256)\n args.decoder_out_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_out_embed_dim\", 256)\n args.decoder_dropout_in = getattr(args, \"decoder_dropout_in\", 0)\n args.decoder_dropout_out = getattr(args, \"decoder_dropout_out\", args.dropout)\n base_architecture(args)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"lstm\", \"lstm_luong_wmt_en_de\")\ndef lstm_luong_wmt_en_de(args):\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", 1000)\n args.encoder_layers = getattr(args, \"encoder_layers\", 4)\n args.encoder_dropout_out = getattr(args, \"encoder_dropout_out\", 0)\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", 1000)\n args.decoder_layers = getattr(args, \"decoder_layers\", 4)\n args.decoder_out_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_out_embed_dim\", 1000)\n args.decoder_dropout_out = getattr(args, \"decoder_dropout_out\", 0)\n base_architecture(args)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/masked_lm.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn as nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\nfrom fairseq.models import (\n BaseFairseqModel,\n FairseqEncoder,\n register_model,\n register_model_architecture,\n)\nfrom fairseq.modules import (\n LayerNorm,\n SinusoidalPositionalEmbedding,\n TransformerSentenceEncoder,\n)\nfrom fairseq.modules.transformer_sentence_encoder import init_bert_params\n\n\n@register_model(\"masked_lm\")\nclass MaskedLMModel(BaseFairseqModel):\n \"\"\"\n Class for training a Masked Language Model. It also supports an\n additional sentence level prediction if the sent-loss argument is set.\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, args, encoder):\n super().__init__()\n self.args = args\n self.encoder = encoder\n\n # if specified then apply bert initialization on the model. We need\n # to explictly call this to make sure that the output embeddings\n # and projection layers are also correctly initialized\n if getattr(args, \"apply_bert_init\", False):\n self.apply(init_bert_params)\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add model-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n # Arguments related to dropout\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--dropout\", type=float, metavar=\"D\", help=\"dropout probability\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--attention-dropout\",\n type=float,\n metavar=\"D\",\n help=\"dropout probability for\" \" attention weights\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--act-dropout\",\n type=float,\n metavar=\"D\",\n help=\"dropout probability after\" \" activation in FFN\",\n )\n\n # Arguments related to hidden states and self-attention\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--encoder-ffn-embed-dim\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"encoder embedding dimension for FFN\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--encoder-layers\", type=int, metavar=\"N\", help=\"num encoder layers\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--encoder-attention-heads\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"num encoder attention heads\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--bias-kv\", action=\"store_true\", help=\"if set, adding a learnable bias kv\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--zero-attn\", action=\"store_true\", help=\"if set, pads attn with zero\"\n )\n\n # Arguments related to input and output embeddings\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--encoder-embed-dim\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"encoder embedding dimension\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--share-encoder-input-output-embed\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"share encoder input\" \" and output embeddings\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--encoder-learned-pos\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"use learned positional embeddings in the encoder\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--no-token-positional-embeddings\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"if set, disables positional embeddings\" \" (outside self attention)\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--num-segment\", type=int, metavar=\"N\", help=\"num segment in the input\"\n )\n\n # Arguments related to sentence level prediction\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--sentence-class-num\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"number of classes for sentence task\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--sent-loss\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"if set,\" \" calculate sentence level predictions\",\n )\n\n # Arguments related to parameter initialization\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--apply-bert-init\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"use custom param initialization for BERT\",\n )\n\n # misc params\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--activation-fn\",\n choices=utils.get_available_activation_fns(),\n help=\"activation function to use\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--pooler-activation-fn\",\n choices=utils.get_available_activation_fns(),\n help=\"Which activation function to use for pooler layer.\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--encoder-normalize-before\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"apply layernorm before each encoder block\",\n )\n\n def forward(self, src_tokens, segment_labels=None, **kwargs):\n return self.encoder(src_tokens, segment_labels=segment_labels, **kwargs)\n\n def max_positions(self):\n return self.encoder.max_positions\n\n @classmethod\n def build_model(cls, args, task):\n \"\"\"Build a new model instance.\"\"\"\n\n # make sure all arguments are present in older models\n base_architecture(args)\n\n if not hasattr(args, \"max_positions\"):\n args.max_positions = args.tokens_per_sample\n\n print(\"Model args: \", args)\n\n encoder = MaskedLMEncoder(args, task.dictionary)\n return cls(args, encoder)\n\n\nclass MaskedLMEncoder(FairseqEncoder):\n \"\"\"\n Encoder for Masked Language Modelling.\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, args, dictionary):\n super().__init__(dictionary)\n\n self.padding_idx = dictionary.pad()\n self.vocab_size = dictionary.__len__()\n self.max_positions = args.max_positions\n\n self.sentence_encoder = TransformerSentenceEncoder(\n padding_idx=self.padding_idx,\n vocab_size=self.vocab_size,\n num_encoder_layers=args.encoder_layers,\n embedding_dim=args.encoder_embed_dim,\n ffn_embedding_dim=args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim,\n num_attention_heads=args.encoder_attention_heads,\n dropout=args.dropout,\n attention_dropout=args.attention_dropout,\n activation_dropout=args.act_dropout,\n max_seq_len=self.max_positions,\n num_segments=args.num_segment,\n use_position_embeddings=not args.no_token_positional_embeddings,\n encoder_normalize_before=args.encoder_normalize_before,\n apply_bert_init=args.apply_bert_init,\n activation_fn=args.activation_fn,\n learned_pos_embedding=args.encoder_learned_pos,\n add_bias_kv=args.bias_kv,\n add_zero_attn=args.zero_attn,\n )\n\n self.share_input_output_embed = args.share_encoder_input_output_embed\n self.embed_out = None\n self.sentence_projection_layer = None\n self.sentence_out_dim = args.sentence_class_num\n self.lm_output_learned_bias = None\n\n # Remove head is set to true during fine-tuning\n self.load_softmax = not getattr(args, \"remove_head\", False)\n\n self.masked_lm_pooler = nn.Linear(\n args.encoder_embed_dim, args.encoder_embed_dim\n )\n self.pooler_activation = utils.get_activation_fn(args.pooler_activation_fn)\n\n self.lm_head_transform_weight = nn.Linear(\n args.encoder_embed_dim, args.encoder_embed_dim\n )\n self.activation_fn = utils.get_activation_fn(args.activation_fn)\n self.layer_norm = LayerNorm(args.encoder_embed_dim)\n\n self.lm_output_learned_bias = None\n if self.load_softmax:\n self.lm_output_learned_bias = nn.Parameter(torch.zeros(self.vocab_size))\n\n if not self.share_input_output_embed:\n self.embed_out = nn.Linear(\n args.encoder_embed_dim, self.vocab_size, bias=False\n )\n\n if args.sent_loss:\n self.sentence_projection_layer = nn.Linear(\n args.encoder_embed_dim, self.sentence_out_dim, bias=False\n )\n\n def forward(self, src_tokens, segment_labels=None, **unused):\n \"\"\"\n Forward pass for Masked LM encoder. This first computes the token\n embedding using the token embedding matrix, position embeddings (if\n specified) and segment embeddings (if specified).\n\n Here we assume that the sentence representation corresponds to the\n output of the classification_token (see bert_task or cross_lingual_lm\n task for more details).\n Args:\n - src_tokens: B x T matrix representing sentences\n - segment_labels: B x T matrix representing segment label for tokens\n Returns:\n - a tuple of the following:\n - logits for predictions in format B x T x C to be used in\n softmax afterwards\n - a dictionary of additional data, where 'pooled_output' contains\n the representation for classification_token and 'inner_states'\n is a list of internal model states used to compute the\n predictions (similar in ELMO). 'sentence_logits'\n is the prediction logit for NSP task and is only computed if\n this is specified in the input arguments.\n \"\"\"\n\n inner_states, sentence_rep = self.sentence_encoder(\n src_tokens, segment_labels=segment_labels,\n )\n\n x = inner_states[-1].transpose(0, 1)\n x = self.layer_norm(self.activation_fn(self.lm_head_transform_weight(x)))\n\n pooled_output = self.pooler_activation(self.masked_lm_pooler(sentence_rep))\n\n # project back to size of vocabulary\n if self.share_input_output_embed and hasattr(\n self.sentence_encoder.embed_tokens, \"weight\"\n ):\n x = F.linear(x, self.sentence_encoder.embed_tokens.weight)\n elif self.embed_out is not None:\n x = self.embed_out(x)\n\n if self.lm_output_learned_bias is not None:\n x = x + self.lm_output_learned_bias\n sentence_logits = None\n if self.sentence_projection_layer:\n sentence_logits = self.sentence_projection_layer(pooled_output)\n\n return (\n x,\n {\n \"inner_states\": inner_states,\n \"pooled_output\": pooled_output,\n \"sentence_logits\": sentence_logits,\n },\n )\n\n def max_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Maximum output length supported by the encoder.\"\"\"\n return self.max_positions\n\n def upgrade_state_dict_named(self, state_dict, name):\n if isinstance(\n self.sentence_encoder.embed_positions, SinusoidalPositionalEmbedding\n ):\n state_dict[\n name + \".sentence_encoder.embed_positions._float_tensor\"\n ] = torch.FloatTensor(1)\n if not self.load_softmax:\n for k in list(state_dict.keys()):\n if (\n \"embed_out.weight\" in k\n or \"sentence_projection_layer.weight\" in k\n or \"lm_output_learned_bias\" in k\n ):\n del state_dict[k]\n return state_dict\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"masked_lm\", \"masked_lm\")\ndef base_architecture(args):\n args.dropout = getattr(args, \"dropout\", 0.1)\n args.attention_dropout = getattr(args, \"attention_dropout\", 0.1)\n args.act_dropout = getattr(args, \"act_dropout\", 0.0)\n\n args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 4096)\n args.encoder_layers = getattr(args, \"encoder_layers\", 6)\n args.encoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"encoder_attention_heads\", 8)\n args.bias_kv = getattr(args, \"bias_kv\", False)\n args.zero_attn = getattr(args, \"zero_attn\", False)\n\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", 1024)\n args.share_encoder_input_output_embed = getattr(\n args, \"share_encoder_input_output_embed\", False\n )\n args.encoder_learned_pos = getattr(args, \"encoder_learned_pos\", False)\n args.no_token_positional_embeddings = getattr(\n args, \"no_token_positional_embeddings\", False\n )\n args.num_segment = getattr(args, \"num_segment\", 2)\n\n args.sentence_class_num = getattr(args, \"sentence_class_num\", 2)\n args.sent_loss = getattr(args, \"sent_loss\", False)\n\n args.apply_bert_init = getattr(args, \"apply_bert_init\", False)\n\n args.activation_fn = getattr(args, \"activation_fn\", \"relu\")\n args.pooler_activation_fn = getattr(args, \"pooler_activation_fn\", \"tanh\")\n args.encoder_normalize_before = getattr(args, \"encoder_normalize_before\", False)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"masked_lm\", \"bert_base\")\ndef bert_base_architecture(args):\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", 768)\n args.share_encoder_input_output_embed = getattr(\n args, \"share_encoder_input_output_embed\", True\n )\n args.no_token_positional_embeddings = getattr(\n args, \"no_token_positional_embeddings\", False\n )\n args.encoder_learned_pos = getattr(args, \"encoder_learned_pos\", True)\n args.num_segment = getattr(args, \"num_segment\", 2)\n\n args.encoder_layers = getattr(args, \"encoder_layers\", 12)\n\n args.encoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"encoder_attention_heads\", 12)\n args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 3072)\n args.bias_kv = getattr(args, \"bias_kv\", False)\n args.zero_attn = getattr(args, \"zero_attn\", False)\n\n args.sentence_class_num = getattr(args, \"sentence_class_num\", 2)\n args.sent_loss = getattr(args, \"sent_loss\", True)\n\n args.apply_bert_init = getattr(args, \"apply_bert_init\", True)\n\n args.activation_fn = getattr(args, \"activation_fn\", \"gelu\")\n args.pooler_activation_fn = getattr(args, \"pooler_activation_fn\", \"tanh\")\n args.encoder_normalize_before = getattr(args, \"encoder_normalize_before\", True)\n base_architecture(args)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"masked_lm\", \"bert_large\")\ndef bert_large_architecture(args):\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", 1024)\n args.encoder_layers = getattr(args, \"encoder_layers\", 24)\n args.encoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"encoder_attention_heads\", 16)\n args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 4096)\n bert_base_architecture(args)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"masked_lm\", \"xlm_base\")\ndef xlm_architecture(args):\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", 1024)\n args.share_encoder_input_output_embed = getattr(\n args, \"share_encoder_input_output_embed\", True\n )\n args.no_token_positional_embeddings = getattr(\n args, \"no_token_positional_embeddings\", False\n )\n args.encoder_learned_pos = getattr(args, \"encoder_learned_pos\", True)\n args.num_segment = getattr(args, \"num_segment\", 1)\n\n args.encoder_layers = getattr(args, \"encoder_layers\", 6)\n\n args.encoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"encoder_attention_heads\", 8)\n args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 4096)\n args.bias_kv = getattr(args, \"bias_kv\", False)\n args.zero_attn = getattr(args, \"zero_attn\", False)\n\n args.sent_loss = getattr(args, \"sent_loss\", False)\n\n args.activation_fn = getattr(args, \"activation_fn\", \"gelu\")\n args.encoder_normalize_before = getattr(args, \"encoder_normalize_before\", False)\n args.pooler_activation_fn = getattr(args, \"pooler_activation_fn\", \"tanh\")\n args.apply_bert_init = getattr(args, \"apply_bert_init\", True)\n base_architecture(args)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/model_utils.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom typing import List, Optional\n\nimport torch\nfrom torch import Tensor\n\n\n@torch.jit.script\ndef script_skip_tensor_list(x: List[Tensor], mask):\n res = [xi[mask] if xi.size(0) == mask.size(0) else xi[:, mask] for xi in x]\n outputs = []\n for i, t in enumerate(res):\n if t.numel() != 0:\n outputs.append(t)\n else:\n outputs.append(x[i])\n return outputs\n\n\n@torch.jit.script\ndef script_skip_tensor(x: Tensor, mask):\n # None case\n if x.size(0) == 0:\n return x\n res = x[mask] if x.size(0) == mask.size(0) else x[:, mask]\n if res.numel() == 0:\n return x\n else:\n return res\n\n\n@torch.jit.script\ndef expand_2d_or_3d_tensor(x, trg_dim: int, padding_idx: int):\n \"\"\"\n Expand 2D/3D tensor on dim=1\n \"\"\"\n if x is None:\n return None\n\n assert x.dim() == 2 or x.dim() == 3\n assert trg_dim >= x.size(1), (trg_dim, x.size())\n if trg_dim == x.size(1):\n return x\n\n dims = [x.size(0), trg_dim - x.size(1)]\n if x.dim() == 3:\n dims.append(x.size(2))\n x = torch.cat([x, torch.zeros(dims).to(x).fill_(padding_idx)], 1)\n\n return x\n\n\n@torch.jit.script\ndef coalesce(x: Optional[Tensor], y: Tensor) -> Tensor:\n return x if x is not None else y\n\n\n@torch.jit.script\ndef fill_tensors(\n x: Optional[Tensor], mask, y: Optional[Tensor], padding_idx: int\n) -> Optional[Tensor]:\n \"\"\"\n Filling tensor x with y at masked positions (dim=0).\n \"\"\"\n if x is None or x.size()[0] == 0 or y is None:\n return x\n assert x.dim() == y.dim() and mask.size(0) == x.size(0)\n assert x.dim() == 2 or (x.dim() == 3 and x.size(2) == y.size(2))\n\n n_selected = mask.sum()\n if n_selected == 0:\n return x\n assert n_selected == y.size(0)\n if n_selected == x.size(0):\n return y\n\n if x.size(1) < y.size(1):\n x = expand_2d_or_3d_tensor(x, y.size(1), padding_idx)\n x[mask] = y\n elif x.size(1) > y.size(1):\n x[mask] = torch.tensor(padding_idx).type_as(x)\n if x.dim() == 2:\n x[mask, : y.size(1)] = y\n else:\n x[mask, : y.size(1), :] = y\n else:\n x[mask] = y\n return x\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/multilingual_transformer.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom collections import OrderedDict\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\nfrom fairseq.models import (\n FairseqMultiModel,\n register_model,\n register_model_architecture,\n)\nfrom fairseq.models.transformer import (\n base_architecture,\n Embedding,\n TransformerModel,\n TransformerEncoder,\n TransformerDecoder,\n)\n\n\n@register_model(\"multilingual_transformer\")\nclass MultilingualTransformerModel(FairseqMultiModel):\n \"\"\"Train Transformer models for multiple language pairs simultaneously.\n\n Requires `--task multilingual_translation`.\n\n We inherit all arguments from TransformerModel and assume that all language\n pairs use a single Transformer architecture. In addition, we provide several\n options that are specific to the multilingual setting.\n\n Args:\n --share-encoder-embeddings: share encoder embeddings across all source languages\n --share-decoder-embeddings: share decoder embeddings across all target languages\n --share-encoders: share all encoder params (incl. embeddings) across all source languages\n --share-decoders: share all decoder params (incl. embeddings) across all target languages\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, encoders, decoders):\n super().__init__(encoders, decoders)\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add model-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n TransformerModel.add_args(parser)\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--share-encoder-embeddings\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"share encoder embeddings across languages\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--share-decoder-embeddings\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"share decoder embeddings across languages\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--share-encoders\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"share encoders across languages\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--share-decoders\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"share decoders across languages\",\n )\n\n @classmethod\n def build_model(cls, args, task):\n \"\"\"Build a new model instance.\"\"\"\n from fairseq.tasks.multilingual_translation import MultilingualTranslationTask\n\n assert isinstance(task, MultilingualTranslationTask)\n\n # make sure all arguments are present in older models\n base_multilingual_architecture(args)\n\n if not hasattr(args, \"max_source_positions\"):\n args.max_source_positions = 1024\n if not hasattr(args, \"max_target_positions\"):\n args.max_target_positions = 1024\n\n src_langs = [lang_pair.split(\"-\")[0] for lang_pair in task.model_lang_pairs]\n tgt_langs = [lang_pair.split(\"-\")[1] for lang_pair in task.model_lang_pairs]\n\n if args.share_encoders:\n args.share_encoder_embeddings = True\n if args.share_decoders:\n args.share_decoder_embeddings = True\n\n def build_embedding(dictionary, embed_dim, path=None):\n num_embeddings = len(dictionary)\n padding_idx = dictionary.pad()\n emb = Embedding(num_embeddings, embed_dim, padding_idx)\n # if provided, load from preloaded dictionaries\n if path:\n embed_dict = utils.parse_embedding(path)\n utils.load_embedding(embed_dict, dictionary, emb)\n return emb\n\n # build shared embeddings (if applicable)\n shared_encoder_embed_tokens, shared_decoder_embed_tokens = None, None\n if args.share_all_embeddings:\n if args.encoder_embed_dim != args.decoder_embed_dim:\n raise ValueError(\n \"--share-all-embeddings requires --encoder-embed-dim to match --decoder-embed-dim\"\n )\n if args.decoder_embed_path and (\n args.decoder_embed_path != args.encoder_embed_path\n ):\n raise ValueError(\n \"--share-all-embeddings not compatible with --decoder-embed-path\"\n )\n shared_encoder_embed_tokens = FairseqMultiModel.build_shared_embeddings(\n dicts=task.dicts,\n langs=task.langs,\n embed_dim=args.encoder_embed_dim,\n build_embedding=build_embedding,\n pretrained_embed_path=args.encoder_embed_path,\n )\n shared_decoder_embed_tokens = shared_encoder_embed_tokens\n args.share_decoder_input_output_embed = True\n else:\n if args.share_encoder_embeddings:\n shared_encoder_embed_tokens = FairseqMultiModel.build_shared_embeddings(\n dicts=task.dicts,\n langs=src_langs,\n embed_dim=args.encoder_embed_dim,\n build_embedding=build_embedding,\n pretrained_embed_path=args.encoder_embed_path,\n )\n if args.share_decoder_embeddings:\n shared_decoder_embed_tokens = FairseqMultiModel.build_shared_embeddings(\n dicts=task.dicts,\n langs=tgt_langs,\n embed_dim=args.decoder_embed_dim,\n build_embedding=build_embedding,\n pretrained_embed_path=args.decoder_embed_path,\n )\n\n # encoders/decoders for each language\n lang_encoders, lang_decoders = {}, {}\n\n def get_encoder(lang):\n if lang not in lang_encoders:\n if shared_encoder_embed_tokens is not None:\n encoder_embed_tokens = shared_encoder_embed_tokens\n else:\n encoder_embed_tokens = build_embedding(\n task.dicts[lang],\n args.encoder_embed_dim,\n args.encoder_embed_path,\n )\n lang_encoders[lang] = TransformerEncoder(\n args, task.dicts[lang], encoder_embed_tokens\n )\n return lang_encoders[lang]\n\n def get_decoder(lang):\n if lang not in lang_decoders:\n if shared_decoder_embed_tokens is not None:\n decoder_embed_tokens = shared_decoder_embed_tokens\n else:\n decoder_embed_tokens = build_embedding(\n task.dicts[lang],\n args.decoder_embed_dim,\n args.decoder_embed_path,\n )\n lang_decoders[lang] = TransformerDecoder(\n args, task.dicts[lang], decoder_embed_tokens\n )\n return lang_decoders[lang]\n\n # shared encoders/decoders (if applicable)\n shared_encoder, shared_decoder = None, None\n if args.share_encoders:\n shared_encoder = get_encoder(src_langs[0])\n if args.share_decoders:\n shared_decoder = get_decoder(tgt_langs[0])\n\n encoders, decoders = OrderedDict(), OrderedDict()\n for lang_pair, src, tgt in zip(task.model_lang_pairs, src_langs, tgt_langs):\n encoders[lang_pair] = (\n shared_encoder if shared_encoder is not None else get_encoder(src)\n )\n decoders[lang_pair] = (\n shared_decoder if shared_decoder is not None else get_decoder(tgt)\n )\n\n return MultilingualTransformerModel(encoders, decoders)\n\n def load_state_dict(self, state_dict, strict=True):\n state_dict_subset = state_dict.copy()\n for k, _ in state_dict.items():\n assert k.startswith(\"models.\")\n lang_pair = k.split(\".\")[1]\n if lang_pair not in self.models:\n del state_dict_subset[k]\n super().load_state_dict(state_dict_subset, strict=strict)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"multilingual_transformer\", \"multilingual_transformer\")\ndef base_multilingual_architecture(args):\n base_architecture(args)\n args.share_encoder_embeddings = getattr(args, \"share_encoder_embeddings\", False)\n args.share_decoder_embeddings = getattr(args, \"share_decoder_embeddings\", False)\n args.share_encoders = getattr(args, \"share_encoders\", False)\n args.share_decoders = getattr(args, \"share_decoders\", False)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\n \"multilingual_transformer\", \"multilingual_transformer_iwslt_de_en\"\n)\ndef multilingual_transformer_iwslt_de_en(args):\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", 512)\n args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 1024)\n args.encoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"encoder_attention_heads\", 4)\n args.encoder_layers = getattr(args, \"encoder_layers\", 6)\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", 512)\n args.decoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 1024)\n args.decoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"decoder_attention_heads\", 4)\n args.decoder_layers = getattr(args, \"decoder_layers\", 6)\n base_multilingual_architecture(args)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/nonautoregressive_ensembles.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport math\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom fairseq.models.levenshtein_transformer import (\n _fill,\n _skip,\n _skip_encoder_out,\n _apply_ins_masks,\n _apply_ins_words,\n _apply_del_words,\n)\n\n\nclass _EnsembleModelEncoder(object):\n def __init__(self, models):\n self.models = models\n\n def reorder_encoder_out(self, encoder_outs, new_order):\n encoder_outs = [\n model.encoder.reorder_encoder_out(encoder_out, new_order)\n for model, encoder_out in zip(self.models, encoder_outs)\n ]\n return encoder_outs\n\n\nclass BasicEnsembleModel(torch.nn.Module):\n \"\"\"A wrapper around an ensemble of models.\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, models):\n super().__init__()\n self.models = torch.nn.ModuleList(models)\n self.bos = self.models[0].decoder.dictionary.bos()\n self.eos = self.models[0].decoder.dictionary.eos()\n self.pad = self.models[0].decoder.dictionary.pad()\n self.unk = self.models[0].decoder.dictionary.unk()\n self.encoder = _EnsembleModelEncoder(self.models)\n\n def has_encoder(self):\n return hasattr(self.models[0], \"encoder\")\n\n def max_decoder_positions(self):\n return min(m.max_decoder_positions() for m in self.models)\n\n @torch.no_grad()\n def forward_encoder(self, encoder_input):\n if not self.has_encoder():\n return None\n return [model.forward_encoder(encoder_input) for model in self.models]\n\n @torch.no_grad()\n def forward_decoder(self, *inputs):\n raise NotImplementedError\n\n def initialize_output_tokens(self, *inputs):\n raise NotImplementedError\n\n\nclass EnsembleLevT(BasicEnsembleModel):\n \"\"\"A wrapper around an ensemble of models.\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, models):\n super().__init__(models)\n\n @torch.no_grad()\n def forward_decoder(\n self, decoder_out, encoder_outs, eos_penalty=0.0, max_ratio=None, **kwargs\n ):\n # LevT ensembling\n # A pipeline of three steps: deletion, placeholder, and word insertion.\n # We need to average scores in each step in a pipeline way because of dependence.\n # deletion\n output_tokens = decoder_out.output_tokens\n output_scores = decoder_out.output_scores\n attn = decoder_out.attn\n\n bsz = output_tokens.size(0)\n if max_ratio is None:\n max_lens = output_tokens.new().fill_(255)\n else:\n if encoder_outs[0].encoder_padding_mask is None:\n src_lens = (\n encoder_outs[0]\n .encoder_out.new(bsz)\n .fill_(encoder_outs[0].encoder_out.size(1))\n )\n else:\n src_lens = (~encoder_outs[0].encoder_padding_mask).sum(1)\n max_lens = (src_lens * max_ratio).clamp(min=10).long()\n\n # delete words\n # do not delete tokens if it is <s> </s>\n can_del_word = output_tokens.ne(self.pad).sum(1) > 2\n if can_del_word.sum() != 0: # we cannot delete, skip\n output_tokens, output_scores, attn = self.forward_word_del(\n encoder_outs, output_tokens, output_scores, attn, can_del_word,\n )\n\n # insert placeholders\n can_ins_mask = output_tokens.ne(self.pad).sum(1) < max_lens\n if can_ins_mask.sum() != 0:\n output_tokens, output_scores = self.forward_mask_ins(\n encoder_outs,\n output_tokens,\n output_scores,\n can_ins_mask,\n eos_penalty,\n max_lens,\n )\n\n # insert words\n can_ins_word = output_tokens.eq(self.unk).sum(1) > 0\n if can_ins_word.sum() != 0:\n output_tokens, output_scores, attn = self.forward_word_ins(\n encoder_outs, output_tokens, output_scores, attn, can_ins_word,\n )\n\n # delete some unnecessary paddings\n cut_off = output_tokens.ne(self.pad).sum(1).max()\n output_tokens = output_tokens[:, :cut_off]\n output_scores = output_scores[:, :cut_off]\n attn = None if attn is None else attn[:, :cut_off, :]\n return decoder_out._replace(\n output_tokens=output_tokens,\n output_scores=output_scores,\n attn=attn,\n history=None,\n )\n\n def forward_word_del(\n self, encoder_outs, output_tokens, output_scores, attn, can_del_word\n ):\n word_del_score_avg = []\n word_del_attn_avg = []\n for model, encoder_out in zip(self.models, encoder_outs):\n word_del_out, word_del_attn = model.decoder.forward_word_del(\n _skip(output_tokens, can_del_word),\n _skip_encoder_out(model.encoder, encoder_out, can_del_word),\n )\n word_del_score = F.log_softmax(word_del_out, 2)\n word_del_score_avg.append(word_del_score)\n word_del_attn_avg.append(word_del_attn)\n word_del_score_avg = torch.logsumexp(\n torch.stack(word_del_score_avg, dim=0), dim=0\n ) - math.log(len(self.models))\n word_del_pred = word_del_score_avg.max(-1)[1].bool()\n if word_del_attn_avg[0] is not None:\n word_del_attn_avg = torch.stack(word_del_attn_avg, dim=0) / len(self.models)\n else:\n word_del_attn_avg = None\n\n _tokens, _scores, _attn = _apply_del_words(\n output_tokens[can_del_word],\n output_scores[can_del_word],\n word_del_attn_avg,\n word_del_pred,\n self.pad,\n self.bos,\n self.eos,\n )\n output_tokens = _fill(output_tokens, can_del_word, _tokens, self.pad)\n output_scores = _fill(output_scores, can_del_word, _scores, 0)\n attn = _fill(attn, can_del_word, _attn, 0.0)\n return output_tokens, output_scores, attn\n\n def forward_mask_ins(\n self,\n encoder_outs,\n output_tokens,\n output_scores,\n can_ins_mask,\n eos_penalty,\n max_lens,\n ):\n mask_ins_score_avg = []\n for model, encoder_out in zip(self.models, encoder_outs):\n mask_ins_out, _ = model.decoder.forward_mask_ins(\n _skip(output_tokens, can_ins_mask),\n _skip_encoder_out(model.encoder, encoder_out, can_ins_mask),\n )\n mask_ins_score = F.log_softmax(mask_ins_out, 2)\n if eos_penalty > 0.0:\n mask_ins_score[:, :, 0] -= eos_penalty\n mask_ins_score_avg.append(mask_ins_score)\n mask_ins_score_avg = torch.logsumexp(\n torch.stack(mask_ins_score_avg, dim=0), dim=0\n ) - math.log(len(self.models))\n mask_ins_pred = mask_ins_score_avg.max(-1)[1]\n mask_ins_pred = torch.min(\n mask_ins_pred, max_lens[can_ins_mask, None].expand_as(mask_ins_pred)\n )\n _tokens, _scores = _apply_ins_masks(\n output_tokens[can_ins_mask],\n output_scores[can_ins_mask],\n mask_ins_pred,\n self.pad,\n self.unk,\n self.eos,\n )\n output_tokens = _fill(output_tokens, can_ins_mask, _tokens, self.pad)\n output_scores = _fill(output_scores, can_ins_mask, _scores, 0)\n return output_tokens, output_scores\n\n def forward_word_ins(\n self, encoder_outs, output_tokens, output_scores, attn, can_ins_word\n ):\n word_ins_score_avg = []\n word_ins_attn_avg = []\n for model, encoder_out in zip(self.models, encoder_outs):\n word_ins_out, word_ins_attn = model.decoder.forward_word_ins(\n _skip(output_tokens, can_ins_word),\n _skip_encoder_out(model.encoder, encoder_out, can_ins_word),\n )\n word_ins_score = F.log_softmax(word_ins_out, 2)\n word_ins_score_avg.append(word_ins_score)\n word_ins_attn_avg.append(word_ins_attn)\n word_ins_score_avg = torch.logsumexp(\n torch.stack(word_ins_score_avg, dim=0), dim=0\n ) - math.log(len(self.models))\n if word_ins_attn_avg[0] is not None:\n word_ins_attn_avg = torch.stack(word_ins_attn_avg, dim=0) / len(self.models)\n else:\n word_ins_attn_avg = None\n word_ins_score_max, word_ins_pred = word_ins_score_avg.max(-1)\n\n _tokens, _scores = _apply_ins_words(\n output_tokens[can_ins_word],\n output_scores[can_ins_word],\n word_ins_pred,\n word_ins_score_max,\n self.unk,\n )\n\n output_tokens = _fill(output_tokens, can_ins_word, _tokens, self.pad)\n output_scores = _fill(output_scores, can_ins_word, _scores, 0)\n attn = _fill(attn, can_ins_word, word_ins_attn, 0.0)\n return output_tokens, output_scores, attn\n\n def initialize_output_tokens(self, encoder_outs, src_tokens):\n # LevT doesn't do length prediction.\n return self.models[0].initialize_output_tokens(encoder_outs[0], src_tokens)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/nonautoregressive_transformer.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\nfrom fairseq.iterative_refinement_generator import DecoderOut\nfrom fairseq.models import register_model, register_model_architecture\nfrom fairseq.models.transformer import (\n Embedding,\n TransformerDecoder,\n TransformerEncoder,\n TransformerModel,\n)\nfrom fairseq.modules.transformer_sentence_encoder import init_bert_params\n\n\ndef _mean_pooling(enc_feats, src_masks):\n # enc_feats: T x B x C\n # src_masks: B x T or None\n if src_masks is None:\n enc_feats = enc_feats.mean(0)\n else:\n src_masks = (~src_masks).transpose(0, 1).type_as(enc_feats)\n enc_feats = (\n (enc_feats / src_masks.sum(0)[None, :, None]) * src_masks[:, :, None]\n ).sum(0)\n return enc_feats\n\n\ndef _argmax(x, dim):\n return (x == x.max(dim, keepdim=True)[0]).type_as(x)\n\n\ndef _uniform_assignment(src_lens, trg_lens):\n max_trg_len = trg_lens.max()\n steps = (src_lens.float() - 1) / (trg_lens.float() - 1) # step-size\n # max_trg_len\n index_t = utils.new_arange(trg_lens, max_trg_len).float()\n index_t = steps[:, None] * index_t[None, :] # batch_size X max_trg_len\n index_t = torch.round(index_t).long().detach()\n return index_t\n\n\n@register_model(\"nonautoregressive_transformer\")\nclass NATransformerModel(TransformerModel):\n def __init__(self, args, encoder, decoder):\n super().__init__(args, encoder, decoder)\n self.tgt_dict = decoder.dictionary\n self.bos = decoder.dictionary.bos()\n self.eos = decoder.dictionary.eos()\n self.pad = decoder.dictionary.pad()\n self.unk = decoder.dictionary.unk()\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n TransformerModel.add_args(parser)\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--apply-bert-init\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"use custom param initialization for BERT\",\n )\n\n # length prediction\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--src-embedding-copy\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"copy encoder word embeddings as the initial input of the decoder\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--pred-length-offset\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"predicting the length difference between the target and source sentences\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--sg-length-pred\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"stop the gradients back-propagated from the length predictor\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--length-loss-factor\",\n type=float,\n help=\"weights on the length prediction loss\",\n )\n\n @classmethod\n def build_decoder(cls, args, tgt_dict, embed_tokens):\n decoder = NATransformerDecoder(args, tgt_dict, embed_tokens)\n if getattr(args, \"apply_bert_init\", False):\n decoder.apply(init_bert_params)\n return decoder\n\n @classmethod\n def build_encoder(cls, args, src_dict, embed_tokens):\n encoder = TransformerEncoder(args, src_dict, embed_tokens)\n if getattr(args, \"apply_bert_init\", False):\n encoder.apply(init_bert_params)\n return encoder\n\n def forward(\n self, src_tokens, src_lengths, prev_output_tokens, tgt_tokens, **kwargs\n ):\n # encoding\n encoder_out = self.encoder(src_tokens, src_lengths=src_lengths, **kwargs)\n length_out, length_tgt = self.decoder.forward_length_prediction(\n encoder_out, tgt_tokens\n )\n\n word_ins_out, word_ins_tgt, word_ins_mask = self.decoder(\n prev_output_tokens, encoder_out=encoder_out, tgt_tokens=tgt_tokens\n )\n\n return {\n \"word_ins\": {\n \"out\": word_ins_out,\n \"tgt\": word_ins_tgt,\n \"mask\": word_ins_mask,\n \"ls\": self.args.label_smoothing,\n \"nll_loss\": True,\n },\n \"length\": {\n \"out\": length_out,\n \"tgt\": length_tgt,\n \"factor\": self.decoder.length_loss_factor,\n },\n }\n\n def forward_encoder(self, encoder_inputs):\n return self.encoder(*encoder_inputs)\n\n def forward_decoder(self, decoder_out, encoder_out, decoding_format=None, **kwargs):\n step = decoder_out.step\n output_tokens = decoder_out.output_tokens\n output_scores = decoder_out.output_scores\n history = decoder_out.history\n\n # execute the decoder\n output_masks = output_tokens.ne(self.pad)\n _scores, _tokens = self.decoder(\n output_tokens,\n encoder_out=encoder_out,\n decoding_format=decoding_format,\n step=step,\n )\n output_tokens.masked_scatter_(output_masks, _tokens[output_masks])\n output_scores.masked_scatter_(output_masks, _scores[output_masks])\n if history is not None:\n history.append(output_tokens.clone())\n\n return decoder_out._replace(\n output_tokens=output_tokens,\n output_scores=output_scores,\n attn=None,\n history=history,\n )\n\n def initialize_output_tokens(self, encoder_out, src_tokens):\n # length prediction\n _, length_tgt = self.decoder.forward_length_prediction(encoder_out)\n max_length = length_tgt.clamp_(min=2).max()\n idx_length = utils.new_arange(src_tokens, max_length)\n\n initial_output_tokens = src_tokens.new_zeros(\n src_tokens.size(0), max_length\n ).fill_(self.pad)\n initial_output_tokens.masked_fill_(\n idx_length[None, :] < length_tgt[:, None], self.unk\n )\n initial_output_tokens[:, 0] = self.bos\n initial_output_tokens.scatter_(1, length_tgt[:, None] - 1, self.eos)\n\n initial_output_scores = initial_output_tokens.new_zeros(\n *initial_output_tokens.size()\n ).type_as(encoder_out.encoder_out)\n\n return DecoderOut(\n output_tokens=initial_output_tokens,\n output_scores=initial_output_scores,\n attn=None,\n step=0,\n max_step=0,\n history=None,\n )\n\n\nclass NATransformerDecoder(TransformerDecoder):\n def __init__(self, args, dictionary, embed_tokens, no_encoder_attn=False):\n super().__init__(\n args, dictionary, embed_tokens, no_encoder_attn=no_encoder_attn\n )\n\n self.dictionary = dictionary\n self.bos = dictionary.bos()\n self.unk = dictionary.unk()\n self.eos = dictionary.eos()\n\n self.encoder_embed_dim = args.encoder_embed_dim\n self.sg_length_pred = getattr(args, \"sg_length_pred\", False)\n self.pred_length_offset = getattr(args, \"pred_length_offset\", False)\n self.length_loss_factor = getattr(args, \"length_loss_factor\", 0.1)\n self.src_embedding_copy = getattr(args, \"src_embedding_copy\", False)\n self.embed_length = Embedding(256, self.encoder_embed_dim, None)\n\n def forward(\n self,\n prev_output_tokens,\n encoder_out=None,\n tgt_tokens=None,\n decoding_format=None,\n step=0,\n **kwargs\n ):\n\n features, _ = self.extract_features(\n prev_output_tokens,\n encoder_out=encoder_out,\n embedding_copy=(step == 0) & self.src_embedding_copy,\n )\n\n if tgt_tokens is not None:\n word_ins_mask = tgt_tokens.ne(self.padding_idx)\n word_ins_tgt = tgt_tokens\n return self.output_layer(features), word_ins_tgt, word_ins_mask\n\n else:\n return F.log_softmax(self.output_layer(features), -1).max(-1)\n\n def extract_features(\n self,\n prev_output_tokens,\n encoder_out=None,\n early_exit=None,\n embedding_copy=False,\n **unused\n ):\n \"\"\"\n Similar to *forward* but only return features.\n\n Inputs:\n prev_output_tokens: Tensor(B, T)\n encoder_out: a dictionary of hidden states and masks\n\n Returns:\n tuple:\n - the decoder's features of shape `(batch, tgt_len, embed_dim)`\n - a dictionary with any model-specific outputs\n the LevenshteinTransformer decoder has full-attention to all generated tokens\n \"\"\"\n # embedding\n if embedding_copy:\n src_embd = encoder_out.encoder_embedding\n src_mask = encoder_out.encoder_padding_mask\n src_mask = (\n ~src_mask\n if src_mask is not None\n else prev_output_tokens.new_ones(*src_embd.size()[:2]).bool()\n )\n\n x, decoder_padding_mask = self.forward_embedding(\n prev_output_tokens,\n self.forward_copying_source(\n src_embd, src_mask, prev_output_tokens.ne(self.padding_idx)\n ),\n )\n\n else:\n\n x, decoder_padding_mask = self.forward_embedding(prev_output_tokens)\n\n # B x T x C -> T x B x C\n x = x.transpose(0, 1)\n attn = None\n inner_states = [x]\n\n # decoder layers\n for i, layer in enumerate(self.layers):\n\n # early exit from the decoder.\n if (early_exit is not None) and (i >= early_exit):\n break\n\n x, attn = layer(\n x,\n encoder_out.encoder_out if encoder_out is not None else None,\n encoder_out.encoder_padding_mask if encoder_out is not None else None,\n self_attn_mask=None,\n self_attn_padding_mask=decoder_padding_mask,\n )\n inner_states.append(x)\n\n if self.layer_norm:\n x = self.layer_norm(x)\n\n # T x B x C -> B x T x C\n x = x.transpose(0, 1)\n\n if self.project_out_dim is not None:\n x = self.project_out_dim(x)\n\n return x, {\"attn\": attn, \"inner_states\": inner_states}\n\n def forward_embedding(self, prev_output_tokens, states=None):\n # embed positions\n positions = (\n self.embed_positions(prev_output_tokens)\n if self.embed_positions is not None\n else None\n )\n\n # embed tokens and positions\n if states is None:\n x = self.embed_scale * self.embed_tokens(prev_output_tokens)\n if self.project_in_dim is not None:\n x = self.project_in_dim(x)\n else:\n x = states\n\n if positions is not None:\n x += positions\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n decoder_padding_mask = prev_output_tokens.eq(self.padding_idx)\n return x, decoder_padding_mask\n\n def forward_copying_source(self, src_embeds, src_masks, tgt_masks):\n length_sources = src_masks.sum(1)\n length_targets = tgt_masks.sum(1)\n mapped_inputs = _uniform_assignment(length_sources, length_targets).masked_fill(\n ~tgt_masks, 0\n )\n copied_embedding = torch.gather(\n src_embeds,\n 1,\n mapped_inputs.unsqueeze(-1).expand(\n *mapped_inputs.size(), src_embeds.size(-1)\n ),\n )\n return copied_embedding\n\n def forward_length_prediction(self, encoder_out, tgt_tokens=None):\n enc_feats = encoder_out.encoder_out # T x B x C\n src_masks = encoder_out.encoder_padding_mask # B x T or None\n\n if self.pred_length_offset:\n if src_masks is None:\n src_lengs = enc_feats.new_ones(enc_feats.size(1)).fill_(\n enc_feats.size(0)\n )\n else:\n src_lengs = (~src_masks).transpose(0, 1).type_as(enc_feats).sum(0)\n src_lengs = src_lengs.long()\n\n enc_feats = _mean_pooling(enc_feats, src_masks)\n if self.sg_length_pred:\n enc_feats = enc_feats.detach()\n\n length_out = F.linear(enc_feats, self.embed_length.weight)\n\n if tgt_tokens is not None:\n # obtain the length target\n tgt_lengs = tgt_tokens.ne(self.padding_idx).sum(1).long()\n if self.pred_length_offset:\n length_tgt = tgt_lengs - src_lengs + 128\n else:\n length_tgt = tgt_lengs\n length_tgt = length_tgt.clamp(min=0, max=255)\n\n else:\n # predict the length target (greedy for now)\n # TODO: implementing length-beam\n pred_lengs = length_out.max(-1)[1]\n if self.pred_length_offset:\n length_tgt = pred_lengs - 128 + src_lengs\n else:\n length_tgt = pred_lengs\n\n return length_out, length_tgt\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\n \"nonautoregressive_transformer\", \"nonautoregressive_transformer\"\n)\ndef base_architecture(args):\n args.encoder_embed_path = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_path\", None)\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", 512)\n args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 2048)\n args.encoder_layers = getattr(args, \"encoder_layers\", 6)\n args.encoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"encoder_attention_heads\", 8)\n args.encoder_normalize_before = getattr(args, \"encoder_normalize_before\", False)\n args.encoder_learned_pos = getattr(args, \"encoder_learned_pos\", False)\n args.decoder_embed_path = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_path\", None)\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", args.encoder_embed_dim)\n args.decoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(\n args, \"decoder_ffn_embed_dim\", args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim\n )\n args.decoder_layers = getattr(args, \"decoder_layers\", 6)\n args.decoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"decoder_attention_heads\", 8)\n args.decoder_normalize_before = getattr(args, \"decoder_normalize_before\", False)\n args.decoder_learned_pos = getattr(args, \"decoder_learned_pos\", False)\n args.attention_dropout = getattr(args, \"attention_dropout\", 0.0)\n args.activation_dropout = getattr(args, \"activation_dropout\", 0.0)\n args.activation_fn = getattr(args, \"activation_fn\", \"relu\")\n args.dropout = getattr(args, \"dropout\", 0.1)\n args.adaptive_softmax_cutoff = getattr(args, \"adaptive_softmax_cutoff\", None)\n args.adaptive_softmax_dropout = getattr(args, \"adaptive_softmax_dropout\", 0)\n args.share_decoder_input_output_embed = getattr(\n args, \"share_decoder_input_output_embed\", False\n )\n args.share_all_embeddings = getattr(args, \"share_all_embeddings\", False)\n args.no_token_positional_embeddings = getattr(\n args, \"no_token_positional_embeddings\", False\n )\n args.adaptive_input = getattr(args, \"adaptive_input\", False)\n args.apply_bert_init = getattr(args, \"apply_bert_init\", False)\n\n args.decoder_output_dim = getattr(\n args, \"decoder_output_dim\", args.decoder_embed_dim\n )\n args.decoder_input_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_input_dim\", args.decoder_embed_dim)\n\n # --- special arguments ---\n args.sg_length_pred = getattr(args, \"sg_length_pred\", False)\n args.pred_length_offset = getattr(args, \"pred_length_offset\", False)\n args.length_loss_factor = getattr(args, \"length_loss_factor\", 0.1)\n args.src_embedding_copy = getattr(args, \"src_embedding_copy\", False)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\n \"nonautoregressive_transformer\", \"nonautoregressive_transformer_wmt_en_de\"\n)\ndef nonautoregressive_transformer_wmt_en_de(args):\n base_architecture(args)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/roberta/__init__.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom .hub_interface import * # noqa\nfrom .model import * # noqa\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/roberta/alignment_utils.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom collections import Counter\nfrom typing import List\n\nimport torch\n\n\ndef align_bpe_to_words(roberta, bpe_tokens: torch.LongTensor, other_tokens: List[str]):\n \"\"\"\n Helper to align GPT-2 BPE to other tokenization formats (e.g., spaCy).\n\n Args:\n roberta (RobertaHubInterface): RoBERTa instance\n bpe_tokens (torch.LongTensor): GPT-2 BPE tokens of shape `(T_bpe)`\n other_tokens (List[str]): other tokens of shape `(T_words)`\n\n Returns:\n List[str]: mapping from *other_tokens* to corresponding *bpe_tokens*.\n \"\"\"\n assert bpe_tokens.dim() == 1\n assert bpe_tokens[0] == 0\n\n def clean(text):\n return text.strip()\n\n # remove whitespaces to simplify alignment\n bpe_tokens = [roberta.task.source_dictionary.string([x]) for x in bpe_tokens]\n bpe_tokens = [\n clean(roberta.bpe.decode(x) if x not in {\"<s>\", \"\"} else x) for x in bpe_tokens\n ]\n other_tokens = [clean(str(o)) for o in other_tokens]\n\n # strip leading <s>\n bpe_tokens = bpe_tokens[1:]\n assert \"\".join(bpe_tokens) == \"\".join(other_tokens)\n\n # create alignment from every word to a list of BPE tokens\n alignment = []\n bpe_toks = filter(lambda item: item[1] != \"\", enumerate(bpe_tokens, start=1))\n j, bpe_tok = next(bpe_toks)\n for other_tok in other_tokens:\n bpe_indices = []\n while True:\n if other_tok.startswith(bpe_tok):\n bpe_indices.append(j)\n other_tok = other_tok[len(bpe_tok) :]\n try:\n j, bpe_tok = next(bpe_toks)\n except StopIteration:\n j, bpe_tok = None, None\n elif bpe_tok.startswith(other_tok):\n # other_tok spans multiple BPE tokens\n bpe_indices.append(j)\n bpe_tok = bpe_tok[len(other_tok) :]\n other_tok = \"\"\n else:\n raise Exception('Cannot align \"{}\" and \"{}\"'.format(other_tok, bpe_tok))\n if other_tok == \"\":\n break\n assert len(bpe_indices) > 0\n alignment.append(bpe_indices)\n assert len(alignment) == len(other_tokens)\n\n return alignment\n\n\ndef align_features_to_words(roberta, features, alignment):\n \"\"\"\n Align given features to words.\n\n Args:\n roberta (RobertaHubInterface): RoBERTa instance\n features (torch.Tensor): features to align of shape `(T_bpe x C)`\n alignment: alignment between BPE tokens and words returned by\n func:`align_bpe_to_words`.\n \"\"\"\n assert features.dim() == 2\n\n bpe_counts = Counter(j for bpe_indices in alignment for j in bpe_indices)\n assert bpe_counts[0] == 0 # <s> shouldn't be aligned\n denom = features.new([bpe_counts.get(j, 1) for j in range(len(features))])\n weighted_features = features / denom.unsqueeze(-1)\n\n output = [weighted_features[0]]\n largest_j = -1\n for bpe_indices in alignment:\n output.append(weighted_features[bpe_indices].sum(dim=0))\n largest_j = max(largest_j, *bpe_indices)\n for j in range(largest_j + 1, len(features)):\n output.append(weighted_features[j])\n output = torch.stack(output)\n assert torch.all(torch.abs(output.sum(dim=0) - features.sum(dim=0)) < 1e-4)\n return output\n\n\ndef spacy_nlp():\n if getattr(spacy_nlp, \"_nlp\", None) is None:\n try:\n from spacy.lang.en import English\n\n spacy_nlp._nlp = English()\n except ImportError:\n raise ImportError(\"Please install spacy with: pip install spacy\")\n return spacy_nlp._nlp\n\n\ndef spacy_tokenizer():\n if getattr(spacy_tokenizer, \"_tokenizer\", None) is None:\n try:\n nlp = spacy_nlp()\n spacy_tokenizer._tokenizer = nlp.Defaults.create_tokenizer(nlp)\n except ImportError:\n raise ImportError(\"Please install spacy with: pip install spacy\")\n return spacy_tokenizer._tokenizer\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/roberta/hub_interface.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn as nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\nfrom fairseq.data import encoders\n\n\nclass RobertaHubInterface(nn.Module):\n \"\"\"A simple PyTorch Hub interface to RoBERTa.\n\n Usage: https://github.com/pytorch/fairseq/tree/master/examples/roberta\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, args, task, model):\n super().__init__()\n self.args = args\n self.task = task\n self.model = model\n\n self.bpe = encoders.build_bpe(args)\n\n # this is useful for determining the device\n self.register_buffer(\"_float_tensor\", torch.tensor([0], dtype=torch.float))\n\n @property\n def device(self):\n return self._float_tensor.device\n\n def encode(\n self, sentence: str, *addl_sentences, no_separator=False\n ) -> torch.LongTensor:\n \"\"\"\n BPE-encode a sentence (or multiple sentences).\n\n Every sequence begins with a beginning-of-sentence (`<s>`) symbol.\n Every sentence ends with an end-of-sentence (`</s>`) and we use an\n extra end-of-sentence (`</s>`) as a separator.\n\n Example (single sentence): `<s> a b c </s>`\n Example (sentence pair): `<s> d e f </s> </s> 1 2 3 </s>`\n\n The BPE encoding follows GPT-2. One subtle detail is that the GPT-2 BPE\n requires leading spaces. For example::\n\n >>> roberta.encode('Hello world').tolist()\n [0, 31414, 232, 2]\n >>> roberta.encode(' world').tolist()\n [0, 232, 2]\n >>> roberta.encode('world').tolist()\n [0, 8331, 2]\n \"\"\"\n bpe_sentence = \"<s> \" + self.bpe.encode(sentence) + \" </s>\"\n for s in addl_sentences:\n bpe_sentence += \" </s>\" if not no_separator else \"\"\n bpe_sentence += \" \" + self.bpe.encode(s) + \" </s>\"\n tokens = self.task.source_dictionary.encode_line(\n bpe_sentence, append_eos=False, add_if_not_exist=False\n )\n return tokens.long()\n\n def decode(self, tokens: torch.LongTensor):\n assert tokens.dim() == 1\n tokens = tokens.numpy()\n if tokens[0] == self.task.source_dictionary.bos():\n tokens = tokens[1:] # remove <s>\n eos_mask = tokens == self.task.source_dictionary.eos()\n doc_mask = eos_mask[1:] & eos_mask[:-1]\n sentences = np.split(tokens, doc_mask.nonzero()[0] + 1)\n sentences = [\n self.bpe.decode(self.task.source_dictionary.string(s)) for s in sentences\n ]\n if len(sentences) == 1:\n return sentences[0]\n return sentences\n\n def extract_features(\n self, tokens: torch.LongTensor, return_all_hiddens: bool = False\n ) -> torch.Tensor:\n if tokens.dim() == 1:\n tokens = tokens.unsqueeze(0)\n if tokens.size(-1) > self.model.max_positions():\n raise ValueError(\n \"tokens exceeds maximum length: {} > {}\".format(\n tokens.size(-1), self.model.max_positions()\n )\n )\n features, extra = self.model(\n tokens.to(device=self.device),\n features_only=True,\n return_all_hiddens=return_all_hiddens,\n )\n if return_all_hiddens:\n # convert from T x B x C -> B x T x C\n inner_states = extra[\"inner_states\"]\n return [inner_state.transpose(0, 1) for inner_state in inner_states]\n else:\n return features # just the last layer's features\n\n def register_classification_head(\n self, name: str, num_classes: int = None, embedding_size: int = None, **kwargs\n ):\n self.model.register_classification_head(\n name, num_classes=num_classes, embedding_size=embedding_size, **kwargs\n )\n\n def predict(self, head: str, tokens: torch.LongTensor, return_logits: bool = False):\n features = self.extract_features(tokens.to(device=self.device))\n logits = self.model.classification_heads[head](features)\n if return_logits:\n return logits\n return F.log_softmax(logits, dim=-1)\n\n def extract_features_aligned_to_words(\n self, sentence: str, return_all_hiddens: bool = False\n ) -> torch.Tensor:\n \"\"\"Extract RoBERTa features, aligned to spaCy's word-level tokenizer.\"\"\"\n from fairseq.models.roberta import alignment_utils\n from spacy.tokens import Doc\n\n nlp = alignment_utils.spacy_nlp()\n tokenizer = alignment_utils.spacy_tokenizer()\n\n # tokenize both with GPT-2 BPE and spaCy\n bpe_toks = self.encode(sentence)\n spacy_toks = tokenizer(sentence)\n spacy_toks_ws = [t.text_with_ws for t in tokenizer(sentence)]\n alignment = alignment_utils.align_bpe_to_words(self, bpe_toks, spacy_toks_ws)\n\n # extract features and align them\n features = self.extract_features(\n bpe_toks, return_all_hiddens=return_all_hiddens\n )\n features = features.squeeze(0)\n aligned_feats = alignment_utils.align_features_to_words(\n self, features, alignment\n )\n\n # wrap in spaCy Doc\n doc = Doc(\n nlp.vocab,\n words=[\"<s>\"] + [x.text for x in spacy_toks] + [\"</s>\"],\n spaces=[True]\n + [x.endswith(\" \") for x in spacy_toks_ws[:-1]]\n + [True, False],\n )\n assert len(doc) == aligned_feats.size(0)\n doc.user_token_hooks[\"vector\"] = lambda token: aligned_feats[token.i]\n return doc\n\n def fill_mask(self, masked_input: str, topk: int = 5):\n masked_token = \"<mask>\"\n assert (\n masked_token in masked_input and masked_input.count(masked_token) == 1\n ), \"Please add one {0} token for the input, eg: 'He is a {0} guy'\".format(\n masked_token\n )\n\n text_spans = masked_input.split(masked_token)\n text_spans_bpe = (\n (\" {0} \".format(masked_token))\n .join([self.bpe.encode(text_span.rstrip()) for text_span in text_spans])\n .strip()\n )\n tokens = self.task.source_dictionary.encode_line(\n \"<s> \" + text_spans_bpe + \" </s>\", append_eos=False, add_if_not_exist=False,\n )\n\n masked_index = (tokens == self.task.mask_idx).nonzero()\n if tokens.dim() == 1:\n tokens = tokens.unsqueeze(0)\n\n with utils.eval(self.model):\n features, extra = self.model(\n tokens.long().to(device=self.device),\n features_only=False,\n return_all_hiddens=False,\n )\n logits = features[0, masked_index, :].squeeze()\n prob = logits.softmax(dim=0)\n values, index = prob.topk(k=topk, dim=0)\n topk_predicted_token_bpe = self.task.source_dictionary.string(index)\n\n topk_filled_outputs = []\n for index, predicted_token_bpe in enumerate(\n topk_predicted_token_bpe.split(\" \")\n ):\n predicted_token = self.bpe.decode(predicted_token_bpe)\n # Quick hack to fix https://github.com/pytorch/fairseq/issues/1306\n if predicted_token_bpe.startswith(\"\\u2581\"):\n predicted_token = \" \" + predicted_token\n if \" {0}\".format(masked_token) in masked_input:\n topk_filled_outputs.append(\n (\n masked_input.replace(\n \" {0}\".format(masked_token), predicted_token\n ),\n values[index].item(),\n predicted_token,\n )\n )\n else:\n topk_filled_outputs.append(\n (\n masked_input.replace(masked_token, predicted_token),\n values[index].item(),\n predicted_token,\n )\n )\n return topk_filled_outputs\n\n def disambiguate_pronoun(self, sentence: str) -> bool:\n \"\"\"\n Usage::\n\n >>> disambiguate_pronoun('The _trophy_ would not fit in the brown suitcase because [it] was too big.')\n True\n\n >>> disambiguate_pronoun('The trophy would not fit in the brown suitcase because [it] was too big.')\n 'The trophy'\n \"\"\"\n assert hasattr(\n self.task, \"disambiguate_pronoun\"\n ), \"roberta.disambiguate_pronoun() requires a model trained with the WSC task.\"\n with utils.eval(self.model):\n return self.task.disambiguate_pronoun(\n self.model, sentence, use_cuda=self.device.type == \"cuda\"\n )\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/roberta/model.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\"\"\"\nRoBERTa: A Robustly Optimized BERT Pretraining Approach.\n\"\"\"\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn as nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\nfrom fairseq.models import (\n FairseqDecoder,\n FairseqLanguageModel,\n register_model,\n register_model_architecture,\n)\nfrom fairseq.modules import (\n LayerNorm,\n TransformerSentenceEncoder,\n)\nfrom fairseq.modules.transformer_sentence_encoder import init_bert_params\n\nfrom .hub_interface import RobertaHubInterface\n\n\n@register_model(\"roberta\")\nclass RobertaModel(FairseqLanguageModel):\n @classmethod\n def hub_models(cls):\n return {\n \"roberta.base\": \"http://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/roberta.base.tar.gz\",\n \"roberta.large\": \"http://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/roberta.large.tar.gz\",\n \"roberta.large.mnli\": \"http://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/roberta.large.mnli.tar.gz\",\n \"roberta.large.wsc\": \"http://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/roberta.large.wsc.tar.gz\",\n }\n\n def __init__(self, args, encoder):\n super().__init__(encoder)\n self.args = args\n\n # We follow BERT's random weight initialization\n self.apply(init_bert_params)\n\n self.classification_heads = nn.ModuleDict()\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add model-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--encoder-layers\", type=int, metavar=\"L\", help=\"num encoder layers\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--encoder-embed-dim\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"H\",\n help=\"encoder embedding dimension\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--encoder-ffn-embed-dim\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"F\",\n help=\"encoder embedding dimension for FFN\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--encoder-attention-heads\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"A\",\n help=\"num encoder attention heads\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--activation-fn\",\n choices=utils.get_available_activation_fns(),\n help=\"activation function to use\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--pooler-activation-fn\",\n choices=utils.get_available_activation_fns(),\n help=\"activation function to use for pooler layer\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--encoder-normalize-before\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"apply layernorm before each encoder block\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--dropout\", type=float, metavar=\"D\", help=\"dropout probability\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--attention-dropout\",\n type=float,\n metavar=\"D\",\n help=\"dropout probability for attention weights\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--activation-dropout\",\n type=float,\n metavar=\"D\",\n help=\"dropout probability after activation in FFN\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--pooler-dropout\",\n type=float,\n metavar=\"D\",\n help=\"dropout probability in the masked_lm pooler layers\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--max-positions\", type=int, help=\"number of positional embeddings to learn\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--load-checkpoint-heads\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"(re-)register and load heads when loading checkpoints\",\n )\n # args for \"Reducing Transformer Depth on Demand with Structured Dropout\" (Fan et al., 2019)\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--encoder-layerdrop\",\n type=float,\n metavar=\"D\",\n default=0,\n help=\"LayerDrop probability for encoder\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--encoder-layers-to-keep\",\n default=None,\n help=\"which layers to *keep* when pruning as a comma-separated list\",\n )\n\n @classmethod\n def build_model(cls, args, task):\n \"\"\"Build a new model instance.\"\"\"\n\n # make sure all arguments are present\n base_architecture(args)\n\n if not hasattr(args, \"max_positions\"):\n args.max_positions = args.tokens_per_sample\n\n encoder = RobertaEncoder(args, task.source_dictionary)\n return cls(args, encoder)\n\n def forward(\n self,\n src_tokens,\n features_only=False,\n return_all_hiddens=False,\n classification_head_name=None,\n **kwargs\n ):\n if classification_head_name is not None:\n features_only = True\n\n x, extra = self.decoder(src_tokens, features_only, return_all_hiddens, **kwargs)\n\n if classification_head_name is not None:\n x = self.classification_heads[classification_head_name](x)\n return x, extra\n\n def register_classification_head(\n self, name, num_classes=None, inner_dim=None, **kwargs\n ):\n \"\"\"Register a classification head.\"\"\"\n if name in self.classification_heads:\n prev_num_classes = self.classification_heads[name].out_proj.out_features\n prev_inner_dim = self.classification_heads[name].dense.out_features\n if num_classes != prev_num_classes or inner_dim != prev_inner_dim:\n print(\n 'WARNING: re-registering head \"{}\" with num_classes {} (prev: {}) '\n \"and inner_dim {} (prev: {})\".format(\n name, num_classes, prev_num_classes, inner_dim, prev_inner_dim\n )\n )\n self.classification_heads[name] = RobertaClassificationHead(\n self.args.encoder_embed_dim,\n inner_dim or self.args.encoder_embed_dim,\n num_classes,\n self.args.pooler_activation_fn,\n self.args.pooler_dropout,\n )\n\n @property\n def supported_targets(self):\n return {\"self\"}\n\n @classmethod\n def from_pretrained(\n cls,\n model_name_or_path,\n checkpoint_file=\"model.pt\",\n data_name_or_path=\".\",\n bpe=\"gpt2\",\n **kwargs\n ):\n from fairseq import hub_utils\n\n x = hub_utils.from_pretrained(\n model_name_or_path,\n checkpoint_file,\n data_name_or_path,\n archive_map=cls.hub_models(),\n bpe=bpe,\n load_checkpoint_heads=True,\n **kwargs,\n )\n return RobertaHubInterface(x[\"args\"], x[\"task\"], x[\"models\"][0])\n\n def upgrade_state_dict_named(self, state_dict, name):\n super().upgrade_state_dict_named(state_dict, name)\n\n prefix = name + \".\" if name != \"\" else \"\"\n current_head_names = (\n []\n if not hasattr(self, \"classification_heads\")\n else self.classification_heads.keys()\n )\n\n # Handle new classification heads present in the state dict.\n keys_to_delete = []\n for k in state_dict.keys():\n if not k.startswith(prefix + \"classification_heads.\"):\n continue\n\n head_name = k[len(prefix + \"classification_heads.\") :].split(\".\")[0]\n num_classes = state_dict[\n prefix + \"classification_heads.\" + head_name + \".out_proj.weight\"\n ].size(0)\n inner_dim = state_dict[\n prefix + \"classification_heads.\" + head_name + \".dense.weight\"\n ].size(0)\n\n if getattr(self.args, \"load_checkpoint_heads\", False):\n if head_name not in current_head_names:\n self.register_classification_head(head_name, num_classes, inner_dim)\n else:\n if head_name not in current_head_names:\n print(\n \"WARNING: deleting classification head ({}) from checkpoint \"\n \"not present in current model: {}\".format(head_name, k)\n )\n keys_to_delete.append(k)\n elif (\n num_classes\n != self.classification_heads[head_name].out_proj.out_features\n or inner_dim\n != self.classification_heads[head_name].dense.out_features\n ):\n print(\n \"WARNING: deleting classification head ({}) from checkpoint \"\n \"with different dimensions than current model: {}\".format(\n head_name, k\n )\n )\n keys_to_delete.append(k)\n for k in keys_to_delete:\n del state_dict[k]\n\n # Copy any newly-added classification heads into the state dict\n # with their current weights.\n if hasattr(self, \"classification_heads\"):\n cur_state = self.classification_heads.state_dict()\n for k, v in cur_state.items():\n if prefix + \"classification_heads.\" + k not in state_dict:\n print(\"Overwriting\", prefix + \"classification_heads.\" + k)\n state_dict[prefix + \"classification_heads.\" + k] = v\n\n\n@register_model(\"xlmr\")\nclass XLMRModel(RobertaModel):\n @classmethod\n def hub_models(cls):\n return {\n \"xlmr.base.v0\": \"http://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/xlmr.base.v0.tar.gz\",\n \"xlmr.large.v0\": \"http://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/xlmr.large.v0.tar.gz\",\n }\n\n @classmethod\n def from_pretrained(\n cls,\n model_name_or_path,\n checkpoint_file=\"model.pt\",\n data_name_or_path=\".\",\n bpe=\"sentencepiece\",\n **kwargs\n ):\n from fairseq import hub_utils\n\n x = hub_utils.from_pretrained(\n model_name_or_path,\n checkpoint_file,\n data_name_or_path,\n archive_map=cls.hub_models(),\n bpe=bpe,\n load_checkpoint_heads=True,\n **kwargs,\n )\n return RobertaHubInterface(x[\"args\"], x[\"task\"], x[\"models\"][0])\n\n\n@register_model(\"camembert\")\nclass CamembertModel(RobertaModel):\n @classmethod\n def hub_models(cls):\n return {\n \"camembert.v0\": \"http://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/camembert.v0.tar.gz\",\n }\n\n @classmethod\n def from_pretrained(\n cls,\n model_name_or_path,\n checkpoint_file=\"model.pt\",\n data_name_or_path=\".\",\n bpe=\"sentencepiece\",\n **kwargs\n ):\n from fairseq import hub_utils\n\n x = hub_utils.from_pretrained(\n model_name_or_path,\n checkpoint_file,\n data_name_or_path,\n archive_map=cls.hub_models(),\n bpe=bpe,\n load_checkpoint_heads=True,\n **kwargs,\n )\n return RobertaHubInterface(x[\"args\"], x[\"task\"], x[\"models\"][0])\n\n\nclass RobertaLMHead(nn.Module):\n \"\"\"Head for masked language modeling.\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, embed_dim, output_dim, activation_fn, weight=None):\n super().__init__()\n self.dense = nn.Linear(embed_dim, embed_dim)\n self.activation_fn = utils.get_activation_fn(activation_fn)\n self.layer_norm = LayerNorm(embed_dim)\n\n if weight is None:\n weight = nn.Linear(embed_dim, output_dim, bias=False).weight\n self.weight = weight\n self.bias = nn.Parameter(torch.zeros(output_dim))\n\n def forward(self, features, masked_tokens=None, **kwargs):\n # Only project the unmasked tokens while training,\n # saves both memory and computation\n if masked_tokens is not None:\n features = features[masked_tokens, :]\n\n x = self.dense(features)\n x = self.activation_fn(x)\n x = self.layer_norm(x)\n # project back to size of vocabulary with bias\n x = F.linear(x, self.weight) + self.bias\n return x\n\n\nclass RobertaClassificationHead(nn.Module):\n \"\"\"Head for sentence-level classification tasks.\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self, input_dim, inner_dim, num_classes, activation_fn, pooler_dropout\n ):\n super().__init__()\n self.dense = nn.Linear(input_dim, inner_dim)\n self.activation_fn = utils.get_activation_fn(activation_fn)\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(p=pooler_dropout)\n self.out_proj = nn.Linear(inner_dim, num_classes)\n\n def forward(self, features, **kwargs):\n x = features[:, 0, :] # take <s> token (equiv. to [CLS])\n x = self.dropout(x)\n x = self.dense(x)\n x = self.activation_fn(x)\n x = self.dropout(x)\n x = self.out_proj(x)\n return x\n\n\nclass RobertaEncoder(FairseqDecoder):\n \"\"\"RoBERTa encoder.\n\n Implements the :class:`~fairseq.models.FairseqDecoder` interface required\n by :class:`~fairseq.models.FairseqLanguageModel`.\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, args, dictionary):\n super().__init__(dictionary)\n self.args = args\n\n # RoBERTa is a sentence encoder model, so users will intuitively trim\n # encoder layers. However, the implementation uses the fairseq decoder,\n # so we fix here.\n if args.encoder_layers_to_keep:\n args.encoder_layers = len(args.encoder_layers_to_keep.split(\",\"))\n args.decoder_layers_to_keep = args.encoder_layers_to_keep\n args.encoder_layers_to_keep = None\n\n self.sentence_encoder = TransformerSentenceEncoder(\n padding_idx=dictionary.pad(),\n vocab_size=len(dictionary),\n num_encoder_layers=args.encoder_layers,\n embedding_dim=args.encoder_embed_dim,\n ffn_embedding_dim=args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim,\n num_attention_heads=args.encoder_attention_heads,\n dropout=args.dropout,\n attention_dropout=args.attention_dropout,\n activation_dropout=args.activation_dropout,\n layerdrop=args.encoder_layerdrop,\n max_seq_len=args.max_positions,\n num_segments=0,\n encoder_normalize_before=True,\n apply_bert_init=True,\n activation_fn=args.activation_fn,\n )\n self.lm_head = RobertaLMHead(\n embed_dim=args.encoder_embed_dim,\n output_dim=len(dictionary),\n activation_fn=args.activation_fn,\n weight=self.sentence_encoder.embed_tokens.weight,\n )\n\n def forward(\n self,\n src_tokens,\n features_only=False,\n return_all_hiddens=False,\n masked_tokens=None,\n **unused\n ):\n \"\"\"\n Args:\n src_tokens (LongTensor): input tokens of shape `(batch, src_len)`\n features_only (bool, optional): skip LM head and just return\n features. If True, the output will be of shape\n `(batch, src_len, embed_dim)`.\n return_all_hiddens (bool, optional): also return all of the\n intermediate hidden states (default: False).\n\n Returns:\n tuple:\n - the LM output of shape `(batch, src_len, vocab)`\n - a dictionary of additional data, where 'inner_states'\n is a list of hidden states.\n \"\"\"\n x, extra = self.extract_features(\n src_tokens, return_all_hiddens=return_all_hiddens\n )\n if not features_only:\n x = self.output_layer(x, masked_tokens=masked_tokens)\n return x, extra\n\n def extract_features(self, src_tokens, return_all_hiddens=False, **unused):\n inner_states, _ = self.sentence_encoder(\n src_tokens, last_state_only=not return_all_hiddens,\n )\n features = inner_states[-1]\n return features, {\"inner_states\": inner_states if return_all_hiddens else None}\n\n def output_layer(self, features, masked_tokens=None, **unused):\n return self.lm_head(features, masked_tokens)\n\n def max_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Maximum output length supported by the encoder.\"\"\"\n return self.args.max_positions\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"roberta\", \"roberta\")\ndef base_architecture(args):\n args.encoder_layers = getattr(args, \"encoder_layers\", 12)\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", 768)\n args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 3072)\n args.encoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"encoder_attention_heads\", 12)\n\n args.activation_fn = getattr(args, \"activation_fn\", \"gelu\")\n args.pooler_activation_fn = getattr(args, \"pooler_activation_fn\", \"tanh\")\n\n args.dropout = getattr(args, \"dropout\", 0.1)\n args.attention_dropout = getattr(args, \"attention_dropout\", 0.1)\n args.activation_dropout = getattr(args, \"activation_dropout\", 0.0)\n args.pooler_dropout = getattr(args, \"pooler_dropout\", 0.0)\n args.encoder_layers_to_keep = getattr(args, \"encoder_layers_to_keep\", None)\n args.encoder_layerdrop = getattr(args, \"encoder_layerdrop\", 0.0)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"roberta\", \"roberta_base\")\ndef roberta_base_architecture(args):\n base_architecture(args)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"roberta\", \"roberta_large\")\ndef roberta_large_architecture(args):\n args.encoder_layers = getattr(args, \"encoder_layers\", 24)\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", 1024)\n args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 4096)\n args.encoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"encoder_attention_heads\", 16)\n base_architecture(args)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"roberta\", \"xlm\")\ndef xlm_architecture(args):\n args.encoder_layers = getattr(args, \"encoder_layers\", 16)\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", 1280)\n args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 1280 * 4)\n args.encoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"encoder_attention_heads\", 16)\n\n base_architecture(args)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/transformer.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom collections import namedtuple\nimport math\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn as nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom fairseq import options, utils\nfrom fairseq.models import (\n FairseqEncoder,\n FairseqIncrementalDecoder,\n FairseqEncoderDecoderModel,\n register_model,\n register_model_architecture,\n)\nfrom fairseq.modules import (\n AdaptiveSoftmax,\n LayerNorm,\n PositionalEmbedding,\n SinusoidalPositionalEmbedding,\n TransformerDecoderLayer,\n TransformerEncoderLayer,\n)\nimport random\n\nDEFAULT_MAX_SOURCE_POSITIONS = 1024\nDEFAULT_MAX_TARGET_POSITIONS = 1024\n\n\n@register_model(\"transformer\")\nclass TransformerModel(FairseqEncoderDecoderModel):\n \"\"\"\n Transformer model from `\"Attention Is All You Need\" (Vaswani, et al, 2017)\n <https://arxiv.org/abs/1706.03762>`_.\n\n Args:\n encoder (TransformerEncoder): the encoder\n decoder (TransformerDecoder): the decoder\n\n The Transformer model provides the following named architectures and\n command-line arguments:\n\n .. argparse::\n :ref: fairseq.models.transformer_parser\n :prog:\n \"\"\"\n\n @classmethod\n def hub_models(cls):\n # fmt: off\n\n def moses_subword(path):\n return {\n 'path': path,\n 'tokenizer': 'moses',\n 'bpe': 'subword_nmt',\n }\n\n def moses_fastbpe(path):\n return {\n 'path': path,\n 'tokenizer': 'moses',\n 'bpe': 'fastbpe',\n }\n\n return {\n 'transformer.wmt14.en-fr': moses_subword('https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt14.en-fr.joined-dict.transformer.tar.bz2'),\n 'transformer.wmt16.en-de': 'https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt16.en-de.joined-dict.transformer.tar.bz2',\n 'transformer.wmt18.en-de': moses_subword('https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt18.en-de.ensemble.tar.gz'),\n 'transformer.wmt19.en-de': moses_fastbpe('https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt19.en-de.joined-dict.ensemble.tar.gz'),\n 'transformer.wmt19.en-ru': moses_fastbpe('https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt19.en-ru.ensemble.tar.gz'),\n 'transformer.wmt19.de-en': moses_fastbpe('https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt19.de-en.joined-dict.ensemble.tar.gz'),\n 'transformer.wmt19.ru-en': moses_fastbpe('https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt19.ru-en.ensemble.tar.gz'),\n 'transformer.wmt19.en-de.single_model': moses_fastbpe('https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt19.en-de.joined-dict.single_model.tar.gz'),\n 'transformer.wmt19.en-ru.single_model': moses_fastbpe('https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt19.en-ru.single_model.tar.gz'),\n 'transformer.wmt19.de-en.single_model': moses_fastbpe('https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt19.de-en.joined-dict.single_model.tar.gz'),\n 'transformer.wmt19.ru-en.single_model': moses_fastbpe('https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/wmt19.ru-en.single_model.tar.gz'),\n }\n # fmt: on\n\n def __init__(self, args, encoder, decoder):\n super().__init__(encoder, decoder)\n self.args = args\n self.supports_align_args = True\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add model-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument('--activation-fn',\n choices=utils.get_available_activation_fns(),\n help='activation function to use')\n parser.add_argument('--dropout', type=float, metavar='D',\n help='dropout probability')\n parser.add_argument('--attention-dropout', type=float, metavar='D',\n help='dropout probability for attention weights')\n parser.add_argument('--activation-dropout', '--relu-dropout', type=float, metavar='D',\n help='dropout probability after activation in FFN.')\n parser.add_argument('--encoder-embed-path', type=str, metavar='STR',\n help='path to pre-trained encoder embedding')\n parser.add_argument('--encoder-embed-dim', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='encoder embedding dimension')\n parser.add_argument('--encoder-ffn-embed-dim', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='encoder embedding dimension for FFN')\n parser.add_argument('--encoder-layers', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='num encoder layers')\n parser.add_argument('--encoder-attention-heads', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='num encoder attention heads')\n parser.add_argument('--encoder-normalize-before', action='store_true',\n help='apply layernorm before each encoder block')\n parser.add_argument('--encoder-learned-pos', action='store_true',\n help='use learned positional embeddings in the encoder')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-embed-path', type=str, metavar='STR',\n help='path to pre-trained decoder embedding')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-embed-dim', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='decoder embedding dimension')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-ffn-embed-dim', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='decoder embedding dimension for FFN')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-layers', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='num decoder layers')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-attention-heads', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='num decoder attention heads')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-learned-pos', action='store_true',\n help='use learned positional embeddings in the decoder')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-normalize-before', action='store_true',\n help='apply layernorm before each decoder block')\n parser.add_argument('--share-decoder-input-output-embed', action='store_true',\n help='share decoder input and output embeddings')\n parser.add_argument('--share-all-embeddings', action='store_true',\n help='share encoder, decoder and output embeddings'\n ' (requires shared dictionary and embed dim)')\n parser.add_argument('--no-token-positional-embeddings', default=False, action='store_true',\n help='if set, disables positional embeddings (outside self attention)')\n parser.add_argument('--adaptive-softmax-cutoff', metavar='EXPR',\n help='comma separated list of adaptive softmax cutoff points. '\n 'Must be used with adaptive_loss criterion'),\n parser.add_argument('--adaptive-softmax-dropout', type=float, metavar='D',\n help='sets adaptive softmax dropout for the tail projections')\n # args for \"Cross+Self-Attention for Transformer Models\" (Peitz et al., 2019)\n parser.add_argument('--no-cross-attention', default=False, action='store_true',\n help='do not perform cross-attention')\n parser.add_argument('--cross-self-attention', default=False, action='store_true',\n help='perform cross+self-attention')\n parser.add_argument('--layer-wise-attention', default=False, action='store_true',\n help='perform layer-wise attention (cross-attention or cross+self-attention)')\n # args for \"Reducing Transformer Depth on Demand with Structured Dropout\" (Fan et al., 2019)\n parser.add_argument('--encoder-layerdrop', type=float, metavar='D', default=0,\n help='LayerDrop probability for encoder')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-layerdrop', type=float, metavar='D', default=0,\n help='LayerDrop probability for decoder')\n parser.add_argument('--encoder-layers-to-keep', default=None,\n help='which layers to *keep* when pruning as a comma-separated list')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-layers-to-keep', default=None,\n help='which layers to *keep* when pruning as a comma-separated list')\n parser.add_argument('--layernorm-embedding', action='store_true',\n help='add layernorm to embedding')\n parser.add_argument('--no-scale-embedding', action='store_true',\n help='if True, dont scale embeddings')\n # fmt: on\n\n @classmethod\n def build_model(cls, args, task):\n \"\"\"Build a new model instance.\"\"\"\n\n # make sure all arguments are present in older models\n base_architecture(args)\n\n if args.encoder_layers_to_keep:\n args.encoder_layers = len(args.encoder_layers_to_keep.split(\",\"))\n if args.decoder_layers_to_keep:\n args.decoder_layers = len(args.decoder_layers_to_keep.split(\",\"))\n\n if getattr(args, \"max_source_positions\", None) is None:\n args.max_source_positions = DEFAULT_MAX_SOURCE_POSITIONS\n if getattr(args, \"max_target_positions\", None) is None:\n args.max_target_positions = DEFAULT_MAX_TARGET_POSITIONS\n\n src_dict, tgt_dict = task.source_dictionary, task.target_dictionary\n\n def build_embedding(dictionary, embed_dim, path=None):\n num_embeddings = len(dictionary)\n padding_idx = dictionary.pad()\n emb = Embedding(num_embeddings, embed_dim, padding_idx)\n # if provided, load from preloaded dictionaries\n if path:\n embed_dict = utils.parse_embedding(path)\n utils.load_embedding(embed_dict, dictionary, emb)\n return emb\n\n if args.share_all_embeddings:\n if src_dict != tgt_dict:\n raise ValueError(\"--share-all-embeddings requires a joined dictionary\")\n if args.encoder_embed_dim != args.decoder_embed_dim:\n raise ValueError(\n \"--share-all-embeddings requires --encoder-embed-dim to match --decoder-embed-dim\"\n )\n if args.decoder_embed_path and (\n args.decoder_embed_path != args.encoder_embed_path\n ):\n raise ValueError(\n \"--share-all-embeddings not compatible with --decoder-embed-path\"\n )\n encoder_embed_tokens = build_embedding(\n src_dict, args.encoder_embed_dim, args.encoder_embed_path\n )\n decoder_embed_tokens = encoder_embed_tokens\n args.share_decoder_input_output_embed = True\n else:\n encoder_embed_tokens = build_embedding(\n src_dict, args.encoder_embed_dim, args.encoder_embed_path\n )\n decoder_embed_tokens = build_embedding(\n tgt_dict, args.decoder_embed_dim, args.decoder_embed_path\n )\n\n encoder = cls.build_encoder(args, src_dict, encoder_embed_tokens)\n decoder = cls.build_decoder(args, tgt_dict, decoder_embed_tokens)\n return cls(args, encoder, decoder)\n\n @classmethod\n def build_encoder(cls, args, src_dict, embed_tokens):\n return TransformerEncoder(args, src_dict, embed_tokens)\n\n @classmethod\n def build_decoder(cls, args, tgt_dict, embed_tokens):\n return TransformerDecoder(\n args,\n tgt_dict,\n embed_tokens,\n no_encoder_attn=getattr(args, \"no_cross_attention\", False),\n )\n\n\n@register_model(\"transformer_align\")\nclass TransformerAlignModel(TransformerModel):\n \"\"\"\n See \"Jointly Learning to Align and Translate with Transformer\n Models\" (Garg et al., EMNLP 2019).\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, encoder, decoder, args):\n super().__init__(args, encoder, decoder)\n self.alignment_heads = args.alignment_heads\n self.alignment_layer = args.alignment_layer\n self.full_context_alignment = args.full_context_alignment\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n # fmt: off\n super(TransformerAlignModel, TransformerAlignModel).add_args(parser)\n parser.add_argument('--alignment-heads', type=int, metavar='D',\n help='Number of cross attention heads per layer to supervised with alignments')\n parser.add_argument('--alignment-layer', type=int, metavar='D',\n help='Layer number which has to be supervised. 0 corresponding to the bottommost layer.')\n parser.add_argument('--full-context-alignment', type=bool, metavar='D',\n help='Whether or not alignment is supervised conditioned on the full target context.')\n # fmt: on\n\n @classmethod\n def build_model(cls, args, task):\n # set any default arguments\n transformer_align(args)\n\n transformer_model = TransformerModel.build_model(args, task)\n return TransformerAlignModel(\n transformer_model.encoder, transformer_model.decoder, args\n )\n\n def forward(self, src_tokens, src_lengths, prev_output_tokens):\n encoder_out = self.encoder(src_tokens, src_lengths)\n return self.forward_decoder(prev_output_tokens, encoder_out)\n\n def forward_decoder(\n self,\n prev_output_tokens,\n encoder_out=None,\n incremental_state=None,\n features_only=False,\n **extra_args,\n ):\n attn_args = {\n \"alignment_layer\": self.alignment_layer,\n \"alignment_heads\": self.alignment_heads,\n }\n decoder_out = self.decoder(\n prev_output_tokens, encoder_out, **attn_args, **extra_args,\n )\n\n if self.full_context_alignment:\n attn_args[\"full_context_alignment\"] = self.full_context_alignment\n _, alignment_out = self.decoder(\n prev_output_tokens,\n encoder_out,\n features_only=True,\n **attn_args,\n **extra_args,\n )\n decoder_out[1][\"attn\"] = alignment_out[\"attn\"]\n\n return decoder_out\n\n\nEncoderOut = namedtuple(\n \"TransformerEncoderOut\",\n [\n \"encoder_out\", # T x B x C\n \"encoder_padding_mask\", # B x T\n \"encoder_embedding\", # B x T x C\n \"encoder_states\", # List[T x B x C]\n ],\n)\n\n\nclass TransformerEncoder(FairseqEncoder):\n \"\"\"\n Transformer encoder consisting of *args.encoder_layers* layers. Each layer\n is a :class:`TransformerEncoderLayer`.\n\n Args:\n args (argparse.Namespace): parsed command-line arguments\n dictionary (~fairseq.data.Dictionary): encoding dictionary\n embed_tokens (torch.nn.Embedding): input embedding\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, args, dictionary, embed_tokens):\n super().__init__(dictionary)\n self.register_buffer(\"version\", torch.Tensor([3]))\n\n self.dropout = args.dropout\n self.encoder_layerdrop = args.encoder_layerdrop\n\n embed_dim = embed_tokens.embedding_dim\n self.padding_idx = embed_tokens.padding_idx\n self.max_source_positions = args.max_source_positions\n\n self.embed_tokens = embed_tokens\n\n self.embed_scale = 1.0 if args.no_scale_embedding else math.sqrt(embed_dim)\n\n self.embed_positions = (\n PositionalEmbedding(\n args.max_source_positions,\n embed_dim,\n self.padding_idx,\n learned=args.encoder_learned_pos,\n )\n if not args.no_token_positional_embeddings\n else None\n )\n\n self.layer_wise_attention = getattr(args, \"layer_wise_attention\", False)\n\n self.layers = nn.ModuleList([])\n self.layers.extend(\n [TransformerEncoderLayer(args) for i in range(args.encoder_layers)]\n )\n\n if args.encoder_normalize_before:\n self.layer_norm = LayerNorm(embed_dim)\n else:\n self.layer_norm = None\n if getattr(args, \"layernorm_embedding\", False):\n self.layernorm_embedding = LayerNorm(embed_dim)\n else:\n self.layernorm_embedding = None\n\n def forward_embedding(self, src_tokens):\n # embed tokens and positions\n x = embed = self.embed_scale * self.embed_tokens(src_tokens)\n if self.embed_positions is not None:\n x = embed + self.embed_positions(src_tokens)\n if self.layernorm_embedding:\n x = self.layernorm_embedding(x)\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n return x, embed\n\n def forward(\n self,\n src_tokens,\n src_lengths,\n cls_input=None,\n return_all_hiddens=False,\n **unused,\n ):\n \"\"\"\n Args:\n src_tokens (LongTensor): tokens in the source language of shape\n `(batch, src_len)`\n src_lengths (torch.LongTensor): lengths of each source sentence of\n shape `(batch)`\n return_all_hiddens (bool, optional): also return all of the\n intermediate hidden states (default: False).\n\n Returns:\n namedtuple:\n - **encoder_out** (Tensor): the last encoder layer's output of\n shape `(src_len, batch, embed_dim)`\n - **encoder_padding_mask** (ByteTensor): the positions of\n padding elements of shape `(batch, src_len)`\n - **encoder_embedding** (Tensor): the (scaled) embedding lookup\n of shape `(batch, src_len, embed_dim)`\n - **encoder_states** (List[Tensor]): all intermediate\n hidden states of shape `(src_len, batch, embed_dim)`.\n Only populated if *return_all_hiddens* is True.\n \"\"\"\n if self.layer_wise_attention:\n return_all_hiddens = True\n\n x, encoder_embedding = self.forward_embedding(src_tokens)\n\n # B x T x C -> T x B x C\n x = x.transpose(0, 1)\n\n # compute padding mask\n encoder_padding_mask = src_tokens.eq(self.padding_idx)\n if not encoder_padding_mask.any():\n encoder_padding_mask = None\n\n encoder_states = [] if return_all_hiddens else None\n\n # encoder layers\n for layer in self.layers:\n # add LayerDrop (see https://arxiv.org/abs/1909.11556 for description)\n dropout_probability = random.uniform(0, 1)\n if not self.training or (dropout_probability > self.encoder_layerdrop):\n x = layer(x, encoder_padding_mask)\n if return_all_hiddens:\n encoder_states.append(x)\n\n if self.layer_norm:\n x = self.layer_norm(x)\n if return_all_hiddens:\n encoder_states[-1] = x\n\n return EncoderOut(\n encoder_out=x, # T x B x C\n encoder_padding_mask=encoder_padding_mask, # B x T\n encoder_embedding=encoder_embedding, # B x T x C\n encoder_states=encoder_states, # List[T x B x C]\n )\n\n def reorder_encoder_out(self, encoder_out, new_order):\n \"\"\"\n Reorder encoder output according to *new_order*.\n\n Args:\n encoder_out: output from the ``forward()`` method\n new_order (LongTensor): desired order\n\n Returns:\n *encoder_out* rearranged according to *new_order*\n \"\"\"\n if encoder_out.encoder_out is not None:\n encoder_out = encoder_out._replace(\n encoder_out=encoder_out.encoder_out.index_select(1, new_order)\n )\n if encoder_out.encoder_padding_mask is not None:\n encoder_out = encoder_out._replace(\n encoder_padding_mask=encoder_out.encoder_padding_mask.index_select(\n 0, new_order\n )\n )\n if encoder_out.encoder_embedding is not None:\n encoder_out = encoder_out._replace(\n encoder_embedding=encoder_out.encoder_embedding.index_select(\n 0, new_order\n )\n )\n if encoder_out.encoder_states is not None:\n for idx, state in enumerate(encoder_out.encoder_states):\n encoder_out.encoder_states[idx] = state.index_select(1, new_order)\n return encoder_out\n\n def max_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Maximum input length supported by the encoder.\"\"\"\n if self.embed_positions is None:\n return self.max_source_positions\n return min(self.max_source_positions, self.embed_positions.max_positions())\n\n def buffered_future_mask(self, tensor):\n dim = tensor.size(0)\n if (\n not hasattr(self, \"_future_mask\")\n or self._future_mask is None\n or self._future_mask.device != tensor.device\n ):\n self._future_mask = torch.triu(\n utils.fill_with_neg_inf(tensor.new(dim, dim)), 1\n )\n if self._future_mask.size(0) < dim:\n self._future_mask = torch.triu(\n utils.fill_with_neg_inf(self._future_mask.resize_(dim, dim)), 1\n )\n return self._future_mask[:dim, :dim]\n\n def upgrade_state_dict_named(self, state_dict, name):\n \"\"\"Upgrade a (possibly old) state dict for new versions of fairseq.\"\"\"\n if isinstance(self.embed_positions, SinusoidalPositionalEmbedding):\n weights_key = \"{}.embed_positions.weights\".format(name)\n if weights_key in state_dict:\n print(\"deleting {0}\".format(weights_key))\n del state_dict[weights_key]\n state_dict[\n \"{}.embed_positions._float_tensor\".format(name)\n ] = torch.FloatTensor(1)\n for i in range(len(self.layers)):\n # update layer norms\n self.layers[i].upgrade_state_dict_named(\n state_dict, \"{}.layers.{}\".format(name, i)\n )\n\n version_key = \"{}.version\".format(name)\n if utils.item(state_dict.get(version_key, torch.Tensor([1]))[0]) < 2:\n # earlier checkpoints did not normalize after the stack of layers\n self.layer_norm = None\n self.normalize = False\n state_dict[version_key] = torch.Tensor([1])\n return state_dict\n\n\nclass TransformerDecoder(FairseqIncrementalDecoder):\n \"\"\"\n Transformer decoder consisting of *args.decoder_layers* layers. Each layer\n is a :class:`TransformerDecoderLayer`.\n\n Args:\n args (argparse.Namespace): parsed command-line arguments\n dictionary (~fairseq.data.Dictionary): decoding dictionary\n embed_tokens (torch.nn.Embedding): output embedding\n no_encoder_attn (bool, optional): whether to attend to encoder outputs\n (default: False).\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, args, dictionary, embed_tokens, no_encoder_attn=False):\n super().__init__(dictionary)\n self.register_buffer(\"version\", torch.Tensor([3]))\n\n self.dropout = args.dropout\n self.decoder_layerdrop = args.decoder_layerdrop\n self.share_input_output_embed = args.share_decoder_input_output_embed\n\n input_embed_dim = embed_tokens.embedding_dim\n embed_dim = args.decoder_embed_dim\n self.output_embed_dim = args.decoder_output_dim\n\n self.padding_idx = embed_tokens.padding_idx\n self.max_target_positions = args.max_target_positions\n\n self.embed_tokens = embed_tokens\n\n self.embed_scale = 1.0 if args.no_scale_embedding else math.sqrt(embed_dim)\n\n self.project_in_dim = (\n Linear(input_embed_dim, embed_dim, bias=False)\n if embed_dim != input_embed_dim\n else None\n )\n\n self.embed_positions = (\n PositionalEmbedding(\n args.max_target_positions,\n embed_dim,\n self.padding_idx,\n learned=args.decoder_learned_pos,\n )\n if not args.no_token_positional_embeddings\n else None\n )\n\n self.cross_self_attention = getattr(args, \"cross_self_attention\", False)\n self.layer_wise_attention = getattr(args, \"layer_wise_attention\", False)\n\n self.layers = nn.ModuleList([])\n self.layers.extend(\n [\n TransformerDecoderLayer(args, no_encoder_attn)\n for _ in range(args.decoder_layers)\n ]\n )\n\n self.adaptive_softmax = None\n\n self.project_out_dim = (\n Linear(embed_dim, self.output_embed_dim, bias=False)\n if embed_dim != self.output_embed_dim and not args.tie_adaptive_weights\n else None\n )\n\n if args.adaptive_softmax_cutoff is not None:\n self.adaptive_softmax = AdaptiveSoftmax(\n len(dictionary),\n self.output_embed_dim,\n options.eval_str_list(args.adaptive_softmax_cutoff, type=int),\n dropout=args.adaptive_softmax_dropout,\n adaptive_inputs=embed_tokens if args.tie_adaptive_weights else None,\n factor=args.adaptive_softmax_factor,\n tie_proj=args.tie_adaptive_proj,\n )\n elif not self.share_input_output_embed:\n self.embed_out = nn.Parameter(\n torch.Tensor(len(dictionary), self.output_embed_dim)\n )\n nn.init.normal_(self.embed_out, mean=0, std=self.output_embed_dim ** -0.5)\n\n if args.decoder_normalize_before and not getattr(\n args, \"no_decoder_final_norm\", False\n ):\n self.layer_norm = LayerNorm(embed_dim)\n else:\n self.layer_norm = None\n if getattr(args, \"layernorm_embedding\", False):\n self.layernorm_embedding = LayerNorm(embed_dim)\n else:\n self.layernorm_embedding = None\n\n def forward(\n self,\n prev_output_tokens,\n encoder_out=None,\n incremental_state=None,\n features_only=False,\n **extra_args,\n ):\n \"\"\"\n Args:\n prev_output_tokens (LongTensor): previous decoder outputs of shape\n `(batch, tgt_len)`, for teacher forcing\n encoder_out (optional): output from the encoder, used for\n encoder-side attention\n incremental_state (dict): dictionary used for storing state during\n :ref:`Incremental decoding`\n features_only (bool, optional): only return features without\n applying output layer (default: False).\n\n Returns:\n tuple:\n - the decoder's output of shape `(batch, tgt_len, vocab)`\n - a dictionary with any model-specific outputs\n \"\"\"\n x, extra = self.extract_features(\n prev_output_tokens,\n encoder_out=encoder_out,\n incremental_state=incremental_state,\n **extra_args,\n )\n if not features_only:\n x = self.output_layer(x)\n return x, extra\n\n def extract_features(\n self,\n prev_output_tokens,\n encoder_out=None,\n incremental_state=None,\n full_context_alignment=False,\n alignment_layer=None,\n alignment_heads=None,\n **unused,\n ):\n \"\"\"\n Similar to *forward* but only return features.\n\n Includes several features from \"Jointly Learning to Align and\n Translate with Transformer Models\" (Garg et al., EMNLP 2019).\n\n Args:\n full_context_alignment (bool, optional): don't apply\n auto-regressive mask to self-attention (default: False).\n alignment_layer (int, optional): return mean alignment over\n heads at this layer (default: last layer).\n alignment_heads (int, optional): only average alignment over\n this many heads (default: all heads).\n\n Returns:\n tuple:\n - the decoder's features of shape `(batch, tgt_len, embed_dim)`\n - a dictionary with any model-specific outputs\n \"\"\"\n if alignment_layer is None:\n alignment_layer = len(self.layers) - 1\n\n # embed positions\n positions = (\n self.embed_positions(\n prev_output_tokens, incremental_state=incremental_state,\n )\n if self.embed_positions is not None\n else None\n )\n\n if incremental_state is not None:\n prev_output_tokens = prev_output_tokens[:, -1:]\n if positions is not None:\n positions = positions[:, -1:]\n\n # embed tokens and positions\n x = self.embed_scale * self.embed_tokens(prev_output_tokens)\n\n if self.project_in_dim is not None:\n x = self.project_in_dim(x)\n\n if positions is not None:\n x += positions\n\n if self.layernorm_embedding:\n x = self.layernorm_embedding(x)\n\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n\n # B x T x C -> T x B x C\n x = x.transpose(0, 1)\n\n self_attn_padding_mask = None\n if self.cross_self_attention or prev_output_tokens.eq(self.padding_idx).any():\n self_attn_padding_mask = prev_output_tokens.eq(self.padding_idx)\n\n # decoder layers\n attn = None\n inner_states = [x]\n for idx, layer in enumerate(self.layers):\n encoder_state = None\n if encoder_out is not None:\n if self.layer_wise_attention:\n encoder_state = encoder_out.encoder_states[idx]\n else:\n encoder_state = encoder_out.encoder_out\n\n if incremental_state is None and not full_context_alignment:\n self_attn_mask = self.buffered_future_mask(x)\n else:\n self_attn_mask = None\n\n # add LayerDrop (see https://arxiv.org/abs/1909.11556 for description)\n dropout_probability = random.uniform(0, 1)\n if not self.training or (dropout_probability > self.decoder_layerdrop):\n x, layer_attn = layer(\n x,\n encoder_state,\n encoder_out.encoder_padding_mask\n if encoder_out is not None\n else None,\n incremental_state,\n self_attn_mask=self_attn_mask,\n self_attn_padding_mask=self_attn_padding_mask,\n need_attn=(idx == alignment_layer),\n need_head_weights=(idx == alignment_layer),\n )\n inner_states.append(x)\n if layer_attn is not None and idx == alignment_layer:\n attn = layer_attn.float()\n\n if attn is not None:\n if alignment_heads is not None:\n attn = attn[:alignment_heads]\n\n # average probabilities over heads\n attn = attn.mean(dim=0)\n\n if self.layer_norm:\n x = self.layer_norm(x)\n\n # T x B x C -> B x T x C\n x = x.transpose(0, 1)\n\n if self.project_out_dim is not None:\n x = self.project_out_dim(x)\n\n return x, {\"attn\": attn, \"inner_states\": inner_states}\n\n def output_layer(self, features, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Project features to the vocabulary size.\"\"\"\n if self.adaptive_softmax is None:\n # project back to size of vocabulary\n if self.share_input_output_embed:\n return F.linear(features, self.embed_tokens.weight)\n else:\n return F.linear(features, self.embed_out)\n else:\n return features\n\n def max_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Maximum output length supported by the decoder.\"\"\"\n if self.embed_positions is None:\n return self.max_target_positions\n return min(self.max_target_positions, self.embed_positions.max_positions())\n\n def buffered_future_mask(self, tensor):\n dim = tensor.size(0)\n if (\n not hasattr(self, \"_future_mask\")\n or self._future_mask is None\n or self._future_mask.device != tensor.device\n or self._future_mask.size(0) < dim\n ):\n self._future_mask = torch.triu(\n utils.fill_with_neg_inf(tensor.new(dim, dim)), 1\n )\n return self._future_mask[:dim, :dim]\n\n def upgrade_state_dict_named(self, state_dict, name):\n \"\"\"Upgrade a (possibly old) state dict for new versions of fairseq.\"\"\"\n if isinstance(self.embed_positions, SinusoidalPositionalEmbedding):\n weights_key = \"{}.embed_positions.weights\".format(name)\n if weights_key in state_dict:\n del state_dict[weights_key]\n state_dict[\n \"{}.embed_positions._float_tensor\".format(name)\n ] = torch.FloatTensor(1)\n\n for i in range(len(self.layers)):\n # update layer norms\n layer_norm_map = {\n \"0\": \"self_attn_layer_norm\",\n \"1\": \"encoder_attn_layer_norm\",\n \"2\": \"final_layer_norm\",\n }\n for old, new in layer_norm_map.items():\n for m in (\"weight\", \"bias\"):\n k = \"{}.layers.{}.layer_norms.{}.{}\".format(name, i, old, m)\n if k in state_dict:\n state_dict[\n \"{}.layers.{}.{}.{}\".format(name, i, new, m)\n ] = state_dict[k]\n del state_dict[k]\n\n version_key = \"{}.version\".format(name)\n if utils.item(state_dict.get(version_key, torch.Tensor([1]))[0]) <= 2:\n # earlier checkpoints did not normalize after the stack of layers\n self.layer_norm = None\n self.normalize = False\n state_dict[version_key] = torch.Tensor([1])\n\n return state_dict\n\n\ndef Embedding(num_embeddings, embedding_dim, padding_idx):\n m = nn.Embedding(num_embeddings, embedding_dim, padding_idx=padding_idx)\n nn.init.normal_(m.weight, mean=0, std=embedding_dim ** -0.5)\n nn.init.constant_(m.weight[padding_idx], 0)\n return m\n\n\ndef Linear(in_features, out_features, bias=True):\n m = nn.Linear(in_features, out_features, bias)\n nn.init.xavier_uniform_(m.weight)\n if bias:\n nn.init.constant_(m.bias, 0.0)\n return m\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"transformer\", \"transformer\")\ndef base_architecture(args):\n args.encoder_embed_path = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_path\", None)\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", 512)\n args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 2048)\n args.encoder_layers = getattr(args, \"encoder_layers\", 6)\n args.encoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"encoder_attention_heads\", 8)\n args.encoder_normalize_before = getattr(args, \"encoder_normalize_before\", False)\n args.encoder_learned_pos = getattr(args, \"encoder_learned_pos\", False)\n args.decoder_embed_path = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_path\", None)\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", args.encoder_embed_dim)\n args.decoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(\n args, \"decoder_ffn_embed_dim\", args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim\n )\n args.decoder_layers = getattr(args, \"decoder_layers\", 6)\n args.decoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"decoder_attention_heads\", 8)\n args.decoder_normalize_before = getattr(args, \"decoder_normalize_before\", False)\n args.decoder_learned_pos = getattr(args, \"decoder_learned_pos\", False)\n args.attention_dropout = getattr(args, \"attention_dropout\", 0.0)\n args.activation_dropout = getattr(args, \"activation_dropout\", 0.0)\n args.activation_fn = getattr(args, \"activation_fn\", \"relu\")\n args.dropout = getattr(args, \"dropout\", 0.1)\n args.adaptive_softmax_cutoff = getattr(args, \"adaptive_softmax_cutoff\", None)\n args.adaptive_softmax_dropout = getattr(args, \"adaptive_softmax_dropout\", 0)\n args.share_decoder_input_output_embed = getattr(\n args, \"share_decoder_input_output_embed\", False\n )\n args.share_all_embeddings = getattr(args, \"share_all_embeddings\", False)\n args.no_token_positional_embeddings = getattr(\n args, \"no_token_positional_embeddings\", False\n )\n args.adaptive_input = getattr(args, \"adaptive_input\", False)\n args.no_cross_attention = getattr(args, \"no_cross_attention\", False)\n args.cross_self_attention = getattr(args, \"cross_self_attention\", False)\n args.layer_wise_attention = getattr(args, \"layer_wise_attention\", False)\n\n args.decoder_output_dim = getattr(\n args, \"decoder_output_dim\", args.decoder_embed_dim\n )\n args.decoder_input_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_input_dim\", args.decoder_embed_dim)\n\n args.no_scale_embedding = getattr(args, \"no_scale_embedding\", False)\n args.layernorm_embedding = getattr(args, \"layernorm_embedding\", False)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"transformer\", \"transformer_iwslt_de_en\")\ndef transformer_iwslt_de_en(args):\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", 512)\n args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 1024)\n args.encoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"encoder_attention_heads\", 4)\n args.encoder_layers = getattr(args, \"encoder_layers\", 6)\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", 512)\n args.decoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 1024)\n args.decoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"decoder_attention_heads\", 4)\n args.decoder_layers = getattr(args, \"decoder_layers\", 6)\n base_architecture(args)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"transformer\", \"transformer_wmt_en_de\")\ndef transformer_wmt_en_de(args):\n base_architecture(args)\n\n\n# parameters used in the \"Attention Is All You Need\" paper (Vaswani et al., 2017)\n@register_model_architecture(\"transformer\", \"transformer_vaswani_wmt_en_de_big\")\ndef transformer_vaswani_wmt_en_de_big(args):\n args.encoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", 1024)\n args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"encoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 4096)\n args.encoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"encoder_attention_heads\", 16)\n args.encoder_normalize_before = getattr(args, \"encoder_normalize_before\", False)\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", 1024)\n args.decoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 4096)\n args.decoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"decoder_attention_heads\", 16)\n args.dropout = getattr(args, \"dropout\", 0.3)\n base_architecture(args)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"transformer\", \"transformer_vaswani_wmt_en_fr_big\")\ndef transformer_vaswani_wmt_en_fr_big(args):\n args.dropout = getattr(args, \"dropout\", 0.1)\n transformer_vaswani_wmt_en_de_big(args)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"transformer\", \"transformer_wmt_en_de_big\")\ndef transformer_wmt_en_de_big(args):\n args.attention_dropout = getattr(args, \"attention_dropout\", 0.1)\n transformer_vaswani_wmt_en_de_big(args)\n\n\n# default parameters used in tensor2tensor implementation\n@register_model_architecture(\"transformer\", \"transformer_wmt_en_de_big_t2t\")\ndef transformer_wmt_en_de_big_t2t(args):\n args.encoder_normalize_before = getattr(args, \"encoder_normalize_before\", True)\n args.decoder_normalize_before = getattr(args, \"decoder_normalize_before\", True)\n args.attention_dropout = getattr(args, \"attention_dropout\", 0.1)\n args.activation_dropout = getattr(args, \"activation_dropout\", 0.1)\n transformer_vaswani_wmt_en_de_big(args)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"transformer_align\", \"transformer_align\")\ndef transformer_align(args):\n args.alignment_heads = getattr(args, \"alignment_heads\", 1)\n args.alignment_layer = getattr(args, \"alignment_layer\", 4)\n args.full_context_alignment = getattr(args, \"full_context_alignment\", False)\n base_architecture(args)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"transformer_align\", \"transformer_wmt_en_de_big_align\")\ndef transformer_wmt_en_de_big_align(args):\n args.alignment_heads = getattr(args, \"alignment_heads\", 1)\n args.alignment_layer = getattr(args, \"alignment_layer\", 4)\n transformer_wmt_en_de_big(args)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/transformer_from_pretrained_xlm.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport os\nfrom typing import Any, Dict\n\nfrom fairseq import checkpoint_utils\nfrom fairseq.data.legacy.masked_lm_dictionary import MaskedLMDictionary\nfrom fairseq.models import register_model, register_model_architecture\nfrom fairseq.models.transformer import (\n TransformerDecoder,\n TransformerEncoder,\n TransformerModel,\n base_architecture as transformer_base_architecture,\n)\n\n\n@register_model(\"transformer_from_pretrained_xlm\")\nclass TransformerFromPretrainedXLMModel(TransformerModel):\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add model-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n TransformerModel.add_args(parser)\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--pretrained-xlm-checkpoint\",\n type=str,\n metavar=\"STR\",\n help=\"XLM model to use for initializing transformer encoder and/or decoder\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--init-encoder-only\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"if set, don't load the XLM weights and embeddings into decoder\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--init-decoder-only\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"if set, don't load the XLM weights and embeddings into encoder\",\n )\n\n @classmethod\n def build_model(self, args, task, cls_dictionary=MaskedLMDictionary):\n assert hasattr(args, \"pretrained_xlm_checkpoint\"), (\n \"You must specify a path for --pretrained-xlm-checkpoint to use \"\n \"--arch transformer_from_pretrained_xlm\"\n )\n assert isinstance(task.source_dictionary, cls_dictionary) and isinstance(\n task.target_dictionary, cls_dictionary\n ), (\n \"You should use a MaskedLMDictionary when using --arch \"\n \"transformer_from_pretrained_xlm because the pretrained XLM model \"\n \"was trained using data binarized with MaskedLMDictionary. \"\n \"For translation, you may want to use --task \"\n \"translation_from_pretrained_xlm\"\n )\n assert not (\n getattr(args, \"init_encoder_only\", False)\n and getattr(args, \"init_decoder_only\", False)\n ), \"Only one of --init-encoder-only and --init-decoder-only can be set.\"\n return super().build_model(args, task)\n\n @classmethod\n def build_encoder(cls, args, src_dict, embed_tokens):\n return TransformerEncoderFromPretrainedXLM(args, src_dict, embed_tokens)\n\n @classmethod\n def build_decoder(cls, args, tgt_dict, embed_tokens):\n return TransformerDecoderFromPretrainedXLM(args, tgt_dict, embed_tokens)\n\n\ndef upgrade_state_dict_with_xlm_weights(\n state_dict: Dict[str, Any], pretrained_xlm_checkpoint: str\n) -> Dict[str, Any]:\n \"\"\"\n Load XLM weights into a Transformer encoder or decoder model.\n\n Args:\n state_dict: state dict for either TransformerEncoder or\n TransformerDecoder\n pretrained_xlm_checkpoint: checkpoint to load XLM weights from\n\n Raises:\n AssertionError: If architecture (num layers, attention heads, etc.)\n does not match between the current Transformer encoder or\n decoder and the pretrained_xlm_checkpoint\n \"\"\"\n if not os.path.exists(pretrained_xlm_checkpoint):\n raise IOError(\"Model file not found: {}\".format(pretrained_xlm_checkpoint))\n\n state = checkpoint_utils.load_checkpoint_to_cpu(pretrained_xlm_checkpoint)\n xlm_state_dict = state[\"model\"]\n for key in xlm_state_dict.keys():\n\n for search_key in [\"embed_tokens\", \"embed_positions\", \"layers\"]:\n if search_key in key:\n subkey = key[key.find(search_key) :]\n assert subkey in state_dict, (\n \"{} Transformer encoder / decoder \"\n \"state_dict does not contain {}. Cannot \"\n \"load {} from pretrained XLM checkpoint \"\n \"{} into Transformer.\".format(\n str(state_dict.keys()), subkey, key, pretrained_xlm_checkpoint\n )\n )\n\n state_dict[subkey] = xlm_state_dict[key]\n return state_dict\n\n\nclass TransformerEncoderFromPretrainedXLM(TransformerEncoder):\n def __init__(self, args, dictionary, embed_tokens):\n super().__init__(args, dictionary, embed_tokens)\n if getattr(args, \"init_decoder_only\", False):\n # Don't load XLM weights for encoder if --init-decoder-only\n return\n\n assert hasattr(args, \"pretrained_xlm_checkpoint\"), (\n \"--pretrained-xlm-checkpoint must be specified to load Transformer \"\n \"encoder from pretrained XLM\"\n )\n xlm_loaded_state_dict = upgrade_state_dict_with_xlm_weights(\n state_dict=self.state_dict(),\n pretrained_xlm_checkpoint=args.pretrained_xlm_checkpoint,\n )\n self.load_state_dict(xlm_loaded_state_dict, strict=True)\n\n\nclass TransformerDecoderFromPretrainedXLM(TransformerDecoder):\n def __init__(self, args, dictionary, embed_tokens, no_encoder_attn=False):\n super().__init__(args, dictionary, embed_tokens, no_encoder_attn)\n if getattr(args, \"init_encoder_only\", False):\n # Don't load XLM weights for decoder if --init-encoder-only\n return\n assert hasattr(args, \"pretrained_xlm_checkpoint\"), (\n \"--pretrained-xlm-checkpoint must be specified to load Transformer \"\n \"decoder from pretrained XLM\"\n )\n\n xlm_loaded_state_dict = upgrade_state_dict_with_xlm_weights(\n state_dict=self.state_dict(),\n pretrained_xlm_checkpoint=args.pretrained_xlm_checkpoint,\n )\n self.load_state_dict(xlm_loaded_state_dict, strict=True)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\n \"transformer_from_pretrained_xlm\", \"transformer_from_pretrained_xlm\"\n)\ndef base_architecture(args):\n transformer_base_architecture(args)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/transformer_lm.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom fairseq import options, utils\nfrom fairseq.models import (\n FairseqLanguageModel,\n register_model,\n register_model_architecture,\n)\nfrom fairseq.models.transformer import (\n Embedding,\n TransformerDecoder,\n)\nfrom fairseq.modules import (\n AdaptiveInput,\n CharacterTokenEmbedder,\n)\n\nDEFAULT_MAX_TARGET_POSITIONS = 1024\n\n\n@register_model(\"transformer_lm\")\nclass TransformerLanguageModel(FairseqLanguageModel):\n @classmethod\n def hub_models(cls):\n def moses_fastbpe(path):\n return {\n \"path\": path,\n \"tokenizer\": \"moses\",\n \"bpe\": \"fastbpe\",\n }\n\n return {\n \"transformer_lm.gbw.adaptive_huge\": \"https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/lm/adaptive_lm_gbw_huge.tar.bz2\",\n \"transformer_lm.wiki103.adaptive\": \"https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/lm/adaptive_lm_wiki103.tar.bz2\",\n \"transformer_lm.wmt19.en\": moses_fastbpe(\n \"https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/lm/wmt19.en.tar.bz2\"\n ),\n \"transformer_lm.wmt19.de\": moses_fastbpe(\n \"https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/lm/wmt19.de.tar.bz2\"\n ),\n \"transformer_lm.wmt19.ru\": moses_fastbpe(\n \"https://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/lm/wmt19.ru.tar.bz2\"\n ),\n }\n\n def __init__(self, decoder):\n super().__init__(decoder)\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add model-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument('--activation-fn',\n choices=utils.get_available_activation_fns(),\n help='activation function to use')\n parser.add_argument('--dropout', type=float, metavar='D',\n help='dropout probability')\n parser.add_argument('--attention-dropout', type=float, metavar='D',\n help='dropout probability for attention weights')\n parser.add_argument('--activation-dropout', '--relu-dropout', type=float, metavar='D',\n help='dropout probability after activation in FFN.')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-embed-dim', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='decoder embedding dimension')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-output-dim', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='decoder output dimension')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-input-dim', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='decoder input dimension')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-ffn-embed-dim', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='decoder embedding dimension for FFN')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-layers', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='num decoder layers')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-attention-heads', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='num decoder attention heads')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-normalize-before', action='store_true',\n help='apply layernorm before each decoder block')\n parser.add_argument('--no-decoder-final-norm', action='store_true',\n help='don\\'t add an extra layernorm after the last decoder block')\n parser.add_argument('--adaptive-softmax-cutoff', metavar='EXPR',\n help='comma separated list of adaptive softmax cutoff points. '\n 'Must be used with adaptive_loss criterion')\n parser.add_argument('--adaptive-softmax-dropout', type=float, metavar='D',\n help='sets adaptive softmax dropout for the tail projections')\n parser.add_argument('--adaptive-softmax-factor', type=float, metavar='N',\n help='adaptive input factor')\n parser.add_argument('--no-token-positional-embeddings', action='store_true',\n help='if set, disables positional embeddings (outside self attention)')\n parser.add_argument('--share-decoder-input-output-embed', action='store_true',\n help='share decoder input and output embeddings')\n parser.add_argument('--character-embeddings', action='store_true',\n help='if set, uses character embedding convolutions to produce token embeddings')\n parser.add_argument('--character-filters', type=str, metavar='LIST',\n default='[(1, 64), (2, 128), (3, 192), (4, 256), (5, 256), (6, 256), (7, 256)]',\n help='size of character embeddings')\n parser.add_argument('--character-embedding-dim', default=4, type=int, metavar='N',\n help='size of character embeddings')\n parser.add_argument('--char-embedder-highway-layers', default=2, type=int, metavar='N',\n help='number of highway layers for character token embeddder')\n parser.add_argument('--adaptive-input', action='store_true',\n help='if set, uses adaptive input')\n parser.add_argument('--adaptive-input-factor', type=float, metavar='N',\n help='adaptive input factor')\n parser.add_argument('--adaptive-input-cutoff', metavar='EXPR',\n help='comma separated list of adaptive input cutoff points.')\n parser.add_argument('--tie-adaptive-weights', action='store_true',\n help='if set, ties the weights of adaptive softmax and adaptive input')\n parser.add_argument('--tie-adaptive-proj', action='store_true',\n help='if set, ties the projection weights of adaptive softmax and adaptive input')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-learned-pos', action='store_true',\n help='use learned positional embeddings in the decoder')\n # args for \"Reducing Transformer Depth on Demand with Structured Dropout\" (Fan et al., 2019)\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-layerdrop', type=float, metavar='D', default=0,\n help='LayerDrop probability for decoder')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-layers-to-keep', default=None,\n help='which layers to *keep* when pruning as a comma-separated list')\n parser.add_argument('--layernorm-embedding', action='store_true',\n help='add layernorm to embedding')\n parser.add_argument('--no-scale-embedding', action='store_true',\n help='if True, dont scale embeddings')\n # fmt: on\n\n @classmethod\n def build_model(cls, args, task):\n \"\"\"Build a new model instance.\"\"\"\n\n # make sure all arguments are present in older models\n base_lm_architecture(args)\n\n if args.decoder_layers_to_keep:\n args.decoder_layers = len(args.decoder_layers_to_keep.split(\",\"))\n\n if getattr(args, \"max_target_positions\", None) is None:\n args.max_target_positions = getattr(\n args, \"tokens_per_sample\", DEFAULT_MAX_TARGET_POSITIONS\n )\n\n if args.character_embeddings:\n embed_tokens = CharacterTokenEmbedder(\n task.source_dictionary,\n eval(args.character_filters),\n args.character_embedding_dim,\n args.decoder_embed_dim,\n args.char_embedder_highway_layers,\n )\n elif args.adaptive_input:\n embed_tokens = AdaptiveInput(\n len(task.source_dictionary),\n task.source_dictionary.pad(),\n args.decoder_input_dim,\n args.adaptive_input_factor,\n args.decoder_embed_dim,\n options.eval_str_list(args.adaptive_input_cutoff, type=int),\n )\n else:\n embed_tokens = Embedding(\n len(task.source_dictionary),\n args.decoder_input_dim,\n task.source_dictionary.pad(),\n )\n\n if args.tie_adaptive_weights:\n assert args.adaptive_input\n assert args.adaptive_input_factor == args.adaptive_softmax_factor\n assert (\n args.adaptive_softmax_cutoff == args.adaptive_input_cutoff\n ), \"{} != {}\".format(\n args.adaptive_softmax_cutoff, args.adaptive_input_cutoff\n )\n assert args.decoder_input_dim == args.decoder_output_dim\n\n decoder = TransformerDecoder(\n args, task.target_dictionary, embed_tokens, no_encoder_attn=True,\n )\n return TransformerLanguageModel(decoder)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"transformer_lm\", \"transformer_lm\")\ndef base_lm_architecture(args):\n # backward compatibility for older model checkpoints\n if hasattr(args, \"no_tie_adaptive_proj\"):\n # previous models defined --no-tie-adaptive-proj, so use the existence of\n # that option to determine if this is an \"old\" model checkpoint\n args.no_decoder_final_norm = True # old models always set this to True\n if args.no_tie_adaptive_proj is False:\n args.tie_adaptive_proj = True\n if hasattr(args, \"decoder_final_norm\"):\n args.no_decoder_final_norm = not args.decoder_final_norm\n\n args.dropout = getattr(args, \"dropout\", 0.1)\n args.attention_dropout = getattr(args, \"attention_dropout\", 0.0)\n\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", 512)\n args.decoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 2048)\n args.decoder_layers = getattr(args, \"decoder_layers\", 6)\n args.decoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"decoder_attention_heads\", 8)\n args.adaptive_softmax_cutoff = getattr(args, \"adaptive_softmax_cutoff\", None)\n args.adaptive_softmax_dropout = getattr(args, \"adaptive_softmax_dropout\", 0)\n args.adaptive_softmax_factor = getattr(args, \"adaptive_softmax_factor\", 4)\n args.decoder_learned_pos = getattr(args, \"decoder_learned_pos\", False)\n args.activation_fn = getattr(args, \"activation_fn\", \"relu\")\n\n args.add_bos_token = getattr(args, \"add_bos_token\", False)\n args.no_token_positional_embeddings = getattr(\n args, \"no_token_positional_embeddings\", False\n )\n args.share_decoder_input_output_embed = getattr(\n args, \"share_decoder_input_output_embed\", False\n )\n args.character_embeddings = getattr(args, \"character_embeddings\", False)\n\n args.decoder_output_dim = getattr(\n args, \"decoder_output_dim\", args.decoder_embed_dim\n )\n args.decoder_input_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_input_dim\", args.decoder_embed_dim)\n\n # Model training is not stable without this\n args.decoder_normalize_before = True\n args.no_decoder_final_norm = getattr(args, \"no_decoder_final_norm\", False)\n\n args.adaptive_input = getattr(args, \"adaptive_input\", False)\n args.adaptive_input_factor = getattr(args, \"adaptive_input_factor\", 4)\n args.adaptive_input_cutoff = getattr(args, \"adaptive_input_cutoff\", None)\n\n args.tie_adaptive_weights = getattr(args, \"tie_adaptive_weights\", False)\n args.tie_adaptive_proj = getattr(args, \"tie_adaptive_proj\", False)\n\n args.no_scale_embedding = getattr(args, \"no_scale_embedding\", False)\n args.layernorm_embedding = getattr(args, \"layernorm_embedding\", False)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"transformer_lm\", \"transformer_lm_big\")\ndef transformer_lm_big(args):\n args.decoder_layers = getattr(args, \"decoder_layers\", 12)\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", 1024)\n args.decoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 4096)\n args.decoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"decoder_attention_heads\", 16)\n base_lm_architecture(args)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"transformer_lm\", \"transformer_lm_wiki103\")\n@register_model_architecture(\"transformer_lm\", \"transformer_lm_baevski_wiki103\")\ndef transformer_lm_baevski_wiki103(args):\n args.decoder_layers = getattr(args, \"decoder_layers\", 16)\n args.decoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"decoder_attention_heads\", 8)\n args.dropout = getattr(args, \"dropout\", 0.3)\n args.adaptive_input = getattr(args, \"adaptive_input\", True)\n args.tie_adaptive_weights = getattr(args, \"tie_adaptive_weights\", True)\n args.adaptive_input_cutoff = getattr(args, \"adaptive_input_cutoff\", \"20000,60000\")\n args.adaptive_softmax_cutoff = getattr(\n args, \"adaptive_softmax_cutoff\", \"20000,60000\"\n )\n args.adaptive_softmax_dropout = getattr(args, \"adaptive_softmax_dropout\", 0.2)\n args.attention_dropout = getattr(args, \"attention_dropout\", 0.1)\n args.activation_dropout = getattr(args, \"activation_dropout\", 0.1)\n args.no_decoder_final_norm = getattr(args, \"no_decoder_final_norm\", True)\n args.tie_adaptive_proj = getattr(args, \"tie_adaptive_proj\", True)\n transformer_lm_big(args)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"transformer_lm\", \"transformer_lm_gbw\")\n@register_model_architecture(\"transformer_lm\", \"transformer_lm_baevski_gbw\")\ndef transformer_lm_baevski_gbw(args):\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", 512)\n args.dropout = getattr(args, \"dropout\", 0.1)\n args.attention_dropout = getattr(args, \"attention_dropout\", 0.1)\n args.no_decoder_final_norm = getattr(args, \"no_decoder_final_norm\", True)\n transformer_lm_big(args)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"transformer_lm\", \"transformer_lm_gpt\")\ndef transformer_lm_gpt(args):\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", 768)\n args.decoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 3072)\n args.decoder_layers = getattr(args, \"decoder_layers\", 12)\n args.decoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"decoder_attention_heads\", 12)\n args.dropout = getattr(args, \"dropout\", 0.1)\n args.attention_dropout = getattr(args, \"attention_dropout\", 0.1)\n args.activation_fn = getattr(args, \"activation_fn\", \"gelu\")\n base_lm_architecture(args)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"transformer_lm\", \"transformer_lm_gpt2_small\")\ndef transformer_lm_gpt2_small(args):\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", 1024)\n args.decoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 4096)\n args.decoder_layers = getattr(args, \"decoder_layers\", 24)\n args.decoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"decoder_attention_heads\", 16)\n args.dropout = getattr(args, \"dropout\", 0.1)\n args.attention_dropout = getattr(args, \"attention_dropout\", 0.1)\n args.activation_fn = getattr(args, \"activation_fn\", \"gelu\")\n base_lm_architecture(args)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"transformer_lm\", \"transformer_lm_gpt2_medium\")\ndef transformer_lm_gpt2_medium(args):\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", 1280)\n args.decoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 5120)\n args.decoder_layers = getattr(args, \"decoder_layers\", 36)\n args.decoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"decoder_attention_heads\", 20)\n args.dropout = getattr(args, \"dropout\", 0.1)\n args.attention_dropout = getattr(args, \"attention_dropout\", 0.1)\n args.activation_fn = getattr(args, \"activation_fn\", \"gelu\")\n base_lm_architecture(args)\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"transformer_lm\", \"transformer_lm_gpt2_big\")\ndef transformer_lm_gpt2_big(args):\n args.decoder_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_embed_dim\", 1600)\n args.decoder_ffn_embed_dim = getattr(args, \"decoder_ffn_embed_dim\", 6400)\n args.decoder_layers = getattr(args, \"decoder_layers\", 48)\n args.decoder_attention_heads = getattr(args, \"decoder_attention_heads\", 25)\n args.dropout = getattr(args, \"dropout\", 0.1)\n args.attention_dropout = getattr(args, \"attention_dropout\", 0.1)\n args.activation_fn = getattr(args, \"activation_fn\", \"gelu\")\n base_lm_architecture(args)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/models/wav2vec.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport sys\n\nimport math\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn as nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom . import BaseFairseqModel, register_model, register_model_architecture\n\n\n@register_model(\"wav2vec\")\nclass Wav2VecModel(BaseFairseqModel):\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add model-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--prediction-steps\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"number of steps ahead to predict\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--sample-distance\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"sample distance from target. does not work properly with cross-sampling\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--cross-sample-negatives\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"whether to sample negatives across examples in the same batch\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--num-negatives\", type=int, metavar=\"N\", help=\"number of negative examples\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--conv-feature-layers\",\n type=str,\n metavar=\"EXPR\",\n help=\"convolutional feature extraction layers [(dim, kernel_size, stride), ...]\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--conv-aggregator-layers\",\n type=str,\n metavar=\"EXPR\",\n help=\"convolutional feature extraction layers [(dim, kernel_size, stride), ...]\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--dropout\",\n type=float,\n metavar=\"D\",\n help=\"dropout to apply within the model\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--dropout-features\",\n type=float,\n metavar=\"D\",\n help=\"dropout to apply to the features\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--dropout-agg\",\n type=float,\n metavar=\"D\",\n help=\"dropout to apply after aggregation step\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--encoder\", type=str, choices=[\"cnn\"], help=\"type of encoder to use\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--aggregator\",\n type=str,\n choices=[\"cnn\", \"gru\"],\n help=\"type of aggregator to use\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--gru-dim\", type=int, metavar=\"N\", help=\"GRU dimensionality\"\n )\n\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--no-conv-bias\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"if set, does not learn bias for conv layers\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--agg-zero-pad\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"if set, zero pads in aggregator instead of repl pad\",\n )\n\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--skip-connections-feat\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"if set, adds skip connections to the feature extractor\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--skip-connections-agg\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"if set, adds skip connections to the aggregator\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--residual-scale\",\n type=float,\n metavar=\"D\",\n help=\"scales residual by sqrt(value)\",\n )\n\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--log-compression\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"if set, adds a log compression to feature extractor\",\n )\n\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--balanced-classes\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"if set, loss is scaled to balance for number of negatives\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--project-features\",\n choices=[\"none\", \"same\", \"new\"],\n help=\"if not none, features are projected using the (same or new) aggregator\",\n )\n\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--non-affine-group-norm\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"if set, group norm is not affine\",\n )\n\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--offset\",\n help=\"if set, introduces an offset from target to predictions. \"\n 'if set to \"auto\", it is computed automatically from the receptive field',\n )\n\n @classmethod\n def build_model(cls, args, task):\n \"\"\"Build a new model instance.\"\"\"\n\n # make sure all arguments are present in older models\n base_wav2vec_architecture(args)\n\n model = Wav2VecModel(args)\n print(model)\n return model\n\n def __init__(self, args):\n super().__init__()\n\n self.prediction_steps = args.prediction_steps\n\n offset = args.offset\n\n if args.encoder == \"cnn\":\n feature_enc_layers = eval(args.conv_feature_layers)\n self.feature_extractor = ConvFeatureExtractionModel(\n conv_layers=feature_enc_layers,\n dropout=0.0,\n log_compression=args.log_compression,\n skip_connections=args.skip_connections_feat,\n residual_scale=args.residual_scale,\n non_affine_group_norm=args.non_affine_group_norm,\n )\n embed = feature_enc_layers[-1][0]\n else:\n raise Exception(\"unknown encoder type \" + args.encoder)\n\n if args.offset == \"auto\":\n assert args.encoder == \"cnn\"\n jin = 0\n rin = 0\n for _, k, stride in feature_enc_layers:\n if rin == 0:\n rin = k\n rin = rin + (k - 1) * jin\n if jin == 0:\n jin = stride\n else:\n jin *= stride\n offset = math.ceil(rin / jin)\n\n offset = int(offset)\n\n def make_aggregator():\n if args.aggregator == \"cnn\":\n agg_layers = eval(args.conv_aggregator_layers)\n agg_dim = agg_layers[-1][0]\n feature_aggregator = ConvAggegator(\n conv_layers=agg_layers,\n embed=embed,\n dropout=args.dropout,\n skip_connections=args.skip_connections_agg,\n residual_scale=args.residual_scale,\n non_affine_group_norm=args.non_affine_group_norm,\n conv_bias=not args.no_conv_bias,\n zero_pad=args.agg_zero_pad,\n )\n elif args.aggregator == \"gru\":\n agg_dim = args.gru_dim\n feature_aggregator = nn.Sequential(\n TransposeLast(),\n nn.GRU(\n input_size=embed,\n hidden_size=agg_dim,\n num_layers=1,\n dropout=args.dropout,\n ),\n TransposeLast(deconstruct_idx=0),\n )\n else:\n raise Exception(\"unknown aggregator type \" + args.aggregator)\n\n return feature_aggregator, agg_dim\n\n self.feature_aggregator, agg_dim = make_aggregator()\n\n self.wav2vec_predictions = Wav2VecPredictionsModel(\n in_dim=agg_dim,\n out_dim=embed,\n prediction_steps=args.prediction_steps,\n n_negatives=args.num_negatives,\n cross_sample_negatives=args.cross_sample_negatives,\n sample_distance=args.sample_distance,\n dropout=args.dropout,\n offset=offset,\n balanced_classes=args.balanced_classes,\n )\n\n self.dropout_feats = nn.Dropout(p=args.dropout_features)\n self.dropout_agg = nn.Dropout(p=args.dropout_agg)\n\n if args.project_features == \"none\":\n self.project_features = None\n elif args.project_features == \"same\":\n self.project_features = self.feature_aggregator\n elif args.project_features == \"new\":\n self.project_features, _ = make_aggregator()\n\n def forward(self, source):\n result = {}\n\n features = self.feature_extractor(source)\n\n x = self.dropout_feats(features)\n x = self.feature_aggregator(x)\n x = self.dropout_agg(x)\n\n if self.project_features is not None:\n features = self.project_features(features)\n x, targets = self.wav2vec_predictions(x, features)\n result[\"cpc_logits\"] = x\n result[\"cpc_targets\"] = targets\n\n return result\n\n def upgrade_state_dict_named(self, state_dict, name):\n super().upgrade_state_dict_named(state_dict, name)\n\n def max_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Maximum length supported by the model.\"\"\"\n return sys.maxsize\n\n def get_logits(self, net_output):\n logits = net_output[\"cpc_logits\"]\n return logits\n\n def get_targets(self, sample, net_output, expand_steps=True):\n t = net_output[\"cpc_targets\"]\n return t.contiguous()\n\n def get_target_weights(self, targets, net_output):\n targets = net_output[\"cpc_targets\"]\n if isinstance(targets, tuple) and targets[-1] is not None:\n return targets[-1]\n return 1.0\n\n\nclass TransposeLast(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, deconstruct_idx=None):\n super().__init__()\n self.deconstruct_idx = deconstruct_idx\n\n def forward(self, x):\n if self.deconstruct_idx is not None:\n x = x[self.deconstruct_idx]\n return x.transpose(-2, -1)\n\n\nclass Fp32GroupNorm(nn.GroupNorm):\n def __init__(self, *args, **kwargs):\n super().__init__(*args, **kwargs)\n\n def forward(self, input):\n output = F.group_norm(\n input.float(),\n self.num_groups,\n self.weight.float() if self.weight is not None else None,\n self.bias.float() if self.bias is not None else None,\n self.eps,\n )\n return output.type_as(input)\n\n\nclass Fp32LayerNorm(nn.LayerNorm):\n def __init__(self, *args, **kwargs):\n super().__init__(*args, **kwargs)\n\n def forward(self, input):\n output = F.layer_norm(\n input.float(),\n self.normalized_shape,\n self.weight.float() if self.weight is not None else None,\n self.bias.float() if self.bias is not None else None,\n self.eps,\n )\n return output.type_as(input)\n\n\ndef norm_block(is_layer_norm, dim, affine=True):\n if is_layer_norm:\n mod = nn.Sequential(\n TransposeLast(),\n Fp32LayerNorm(dim, elementwise_affine=affine),\n TransposeLast(),\n )\n else:\n mod = Fp32GroupNorm(1, dim, affine=affine)\n\n return mod\n\n\nclass ConvFeatureExtractionModel(nn.Module):\n def __init__(\n self,\n conv_layers,\n dropout,\n log_compression,\n skip_connections,\n residual_scale,\n non_affine_group_norm,\n ):\n super().__init__()\n\n def block(n_in, n_out, k, stride):\n return nn.Sequential(\n nn.Conv1d(n_in, n_out, k, stride=stride, bias=False),\n nn.Dropout(p=dropout),\n norm_block(\n is_layer_norm=False, dim=n_out, affine=not non_affine_group_norm\n ),\n nn.ReLU(),\n )\n\n in_d = 1\n self.conv_layers = nn.ModuleList()\n for i, (dim, k, stride) in enumerate(conv_layers):\n self.conv_layers.append(block(in_d, dim, k, stride))\n in_d = dim\n\n self.log_compression = log_compression\n self.skip_connections = skip_connections\n self.residual_scale = math.sqrt(residual_scale)\n\n def forward(self, x):\n # BxT -> BxCxT\n x = x.unsqueeze(1)\n\n for conv in self.conv_layers:\n residual = x\n x = conv(x)\n if self.skip_connections and x.size(1) == residual.size(1):\n tsz = x.size(2)\n r_tsz = residual.size(2)\n residual = residual[..., :: r_tsz // tsz][..., :tsz]\n x = (x + residual) * self.residual_scale\n\n if self.log_compression:\n x = x.abs()\n x = x + 1\n x = x.log()\n\n return x\n\n\nclass ZeroPad1d(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, pad_left, pad_right):\n super().__init__()\n self.pad_left = pad_left\n self.pad_right = pad_right\n\n def forward(self, x):\n return F.pad(x, (self.pad_left, self.pad_right))\n\n\nclass ConvAggegator(nn.Module):\n def __init__(\n self,\n conv_layers,\n embed,\n dropout,\n skip_connections,\n residual_scale,\n non_affine_group_norm,\n conv_bias,\n zero_pad,\n ):\n super().__init__()\n\n def block(n_in, n_out, k, stride):\n # padding dims only really make sense for stride = 1\n ka = k // 2\n kb = ka - 1 if k % 2 == 0 else ka\n\n pad = (\n ZeroPad1d(ka + kb, 0) if zero_pad else nn.ReplicationPad1d((ka + kb, 0))\n )\n\n return nn.Sequential(\n pad,\n nn.Conv1d(n_in, n_out, k, stride=stride, bias=conv_bias),\n nn.Dropout(p=dropout),\n norm_block(False, n_out, affine=not non_affine_group_norm),\n nn.ReLU(),\n )\n\n in_d = embed\n self.conv_layers = nn.ModuleList()\n self.residual_proj = nn.ModuleList()\n for i, (dim, k, stride) in enumerate(conv_layers):\n if in_d != dim and skip_connections:\n self.residual_proj.append(nn.Conv1d(in_d, dim, 1, bias=False),)\n else:\n self.residual_proj.append(None)\n\n self.conv_layers.append(block(in_d, dim, k, stride))\n in_d = dim\n self.conv_layers = nn.Sequential(*self.conv_layers)\n self.skip_connections = skip_connections\n self.residual_scale = math.sqrt(residual_scale)\n\n def forward(self, x):\n for rproj, conv in zip(self.residual_proj, self.conv_layers):\n residual = x\n x = conv(x)\n if self.skip_connections:\n if rproj is not None:\n residual = rproj(residual)\n x = (x + residual) * self.residual_scale\n return x\n\n\nclass Wav2VecPredictionsModel(nn.Module):\n def __init__(\n self,\n in_dim,\n out_dim,\n prediction_steps,\n n_negatives,\n cross_sample_negatives,\n sample_distance,\n dropout,\n offset,\n balanced_classes,\n ):\n super().__init__()\n\n self.n_negatives = n_negatives\n self.cross_sample_negatives = cross_sample_negatives\n self.sample_distance = sample_distance\n\n self.project_to_steps = nn.ConvTranspose2d(\n in_dim, out_dim, (1, prediction_steps)\n )\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(p=dropout)\n self.offset = offset\n self.balanced_classes = balanced_classes\n\n def sample_negatives(self, y):\n bsz, fsz, tsz = y.shape\n\n y = y.transpose(0, 1) # BCT -> CBT\n y = y.contiguous().view(fsz, -1) # CBT => C(BxT)\n\n if self.cross_sample_negatives:\n high = tsz * bsz\n assert (\n self.sample_distance is None\n ), \"sample distance is not supported with cross sampling\"\n else:\n high = (\n tsz if self.sample_distance is None else min(tsz, self.sample_distance)\n )\n\n neg_idxs = torch.randint(low=0, high=high, size=(bsz, self.n_negatives * tsz))\n\n if self.sample_distance is not None and self.sample_distance < tsz:\n neg_idxs += torch.cat(\n [\n torch.arange(\n start=1,\n end=tsz - self.sample_distance,\n device=neg_idxs.device,\n dtype=neg_idxs.dtype,\n ),\n torch.arange(\n start=tsz - self.sample_distance,\n end=tsz - self.sample_distance * 2 - 1,\n step=-1,\n device=neg_idxs.device,\n dtype=neg_idxs.dtype,\n ),\n ]\n )\n\n if not self.cross_sample_negatives:\n for i in range(1, bsz):\n neg_idxs[i] += i * high\n\n negs = y[..., neg_idxs.view(-1)]\n negs = negs.view(fsz, bsz, self.n_negatives, tsz).permute(\n 2, 1, 0, 3\n ) # to NxBxCxT\n\n return negs\n\n def forward(self, x, y):\n negatives = self.sample_negatives(y)\n y = y.unsqueeze(0)\n targets = torch.cat([y, negatives], dim=0)\n\n x = x.unsqueeze(-1)\n x = self.project_to_steps(x) # BxCxTxS\n x = self.dropout(x)\n x = x.unsqueeze(0).expand(targets.size(0), -1, -1, -1, -1)\n\n copies, bsz, dim, tsz, steps = x.shape\n steps = min(steps, tsz - self.offset)\n predictions = x.new(\n bsz * copies * (tsz - self.offset + 1) * steps\n - ((steps + 1) * steps // 2) * copies * bsz\n )\n labels = torch.zeros_like(predictions)\n weights = (\n torch.full_like(labels, 1 / self.n_negatives)\n if self.balanced_classes\n else None\n )\n\n start = end = 0\n for i in range(steps):\n offset = i + self.offset\n end = start + (tsz - offset) * bsz * copies\n pos_num = (end - start) // copies\n predictions[start:end] = (\n (x[..., :-offset, i] * targets[..., offset:]).sum(dim=2).flatten()\n )\n labels[start : start + pos_num] = 1.0\n if weights is not None:\n weights[start : start + pos_num] = 1.0\n start = end\n assert end == predictions.numel(), \"{} != {}\".format(end, predictions.numel())\n\n if weights is not None:\n labels = (labels, weights)\n\n return predictions, labels\n\n\n@register_model_architecture(\"wav2vec\", \"wav2vec\")\ndef base_wav2vec_architecture(args):\n conv_feature_layers = \"[(512, 10, 5)]\"\n conv_feature_layers += \" + [(512, 8, 4)]\"\n conv_feature_layers += \" + [(512, 4, 2)] * 3\"\n args.conv_feature_layers = getattr(args, \"conv_feature_layers\", conv_feature_layers)\n\n args.conv_aggregator_layers = getattr(\n args, \"conv_aggregator_layers\", \"[(512, 3, 1)] * 9\"\n )\n\n args.prediction_steps = getattr(args, \"prediction_steps\", 12)\n args.num_negatives = getattr(args, \"num_negatives\", 1)\n args.sample_distance = getattr(args, \"sample_distance\", None)\n args.cross_sample_negatives = getattr(args, \"cross_sample_negatives\", False)\n\n args.dropout = getattr(args, \"dropout\", 0.0)\n args.dropout_features = getattr(args, \"dropout_features\", 0.0)\n args.dropout_agg = getattr(args, \"dropout_agg\", 0.0)\n args.encoder = getattr(args, \"encoder\", \"cnn\")\n args.aggregator = getattr(args, \"aggregator\", \"cnn\")\n\n args.skip_connections_feat = getattr(args, \"skip_connections_feat\", False)\n args.skip_connections_agg = getattr(args, \"skip_connections_agg\", False)\n args.residual_scale = getattr(args, \"residual_scale\", 0.5)\n\n args.gru_dim = getattr(args, \"gru_dim\", 512)\n\n args.no_conv_bias = getattr(args, \"no_conv_bias\", False)\n args.agg_zero_pad = getattr(args, \"agg_zero_pad\", False)\n\n args.log_compression = getattr(args, \"log_compression\", False)\n\n args.balanced_classes = getattr(args, \"balanced_classes\", False)\n args.project_features = getattr(args, \"project_features\", \"none\")\n\n args.non_affine_group_norm = getattr(args, \"non_affine_group_norm\", False)\n\n args.offset = getattr(args, \"offset\", \"auto\")\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/__init__.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom .adaptive_input import AdaptiveInput\nfrom .adaptive_softmax import AdaptiveSoftmax\nfrom .beamable_mm import BeamableMM\nfrom .character_token_embedder import CharacterTokenEmbedder\nfrom .conv_tbc import ConvTBC\nfrom .downsampled_multihead_attention import DownsampledMultiHeadAttention\nfrom .dynamic_convolution import DynamicConv, DynamicConv1dTBC\nfrom .gelu import gelu, gelu_accurate\nfrom .grad_multiply import GradMultiply\nfrom .highway import Highway\nfrom .layer_norm import LayerNorm\nfrom .learned_positional_embedding import LearnedPositionalEmbedding\nfrom .lightweight_convolution import LightweightConv, LightweightConv1dTBC\nfrom .linearized_convolution import LinearizedConvolution\nfrom .logsumexp_moe import LogSumExpMoE\nfrom .mean_pool_gating_network import MeanPoolGatingNetwork\nfrom .multihead_attention import MultiheadAttention\nfrom .positional_embedding import PositionalEmbedding\nfrom .scalar_bias import ScalarBias\nfrom .sinusoidal_positional_embedding import SinusoidalPositionalEmbedding\nfrom .transformer_sentence_encoder_layer import TransformerSentenceEncoderLayer\nfrom .transformer_sentence_encoder import TransformerSentenceEncoder\nfrom .unfold import unfold1d\nfrom .transformer_layer import TransformerDecoderLayer, TransformerEncoderLayer\nfrom .vggblock import VGGBlock\n\n__all__ = [\n \"AdaptiveInput\",\n \"AdaptiveSoftmax\",\n \"BeamableMM\",\n \"CharacterTokenEmbedder\",\n \"ConvTBC\",\n \"DownsampledMultiHeadAttention\",\n \"DynamicConv1dTBC\",\n \"DynamicConv\",\n \"gelu\",\n \"gelu_accurate\",\n \"GradMultiply\",\n \"Highway\",\n \"LayerNorm\",\n \"LearnedPositionalEmbedding\",\n \"LightweightConv1dTBC\",\n \"LightweightConv\",\n \"LinearizedConvolution\",\n \"LogSumExpMoE\",\n \"MeanPoolGatingNetwork\",\n \"MultiheadAttention\",\n \"PositionalEmbedding\",\n \"ScalarBias\",\n \"SinusoidalPositionalEmbedding\",\n \"TransformerSentenceEncoderLayer\",\n \"TransformerSentenceEncoder\",\n \"TransformerDecoderLayer\",\n \"TransformerEncoderLayer\",\n \"VGGBlock\",\n \"unfold1d\",\n]\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/adaptive_input.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\n\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\n\nfrom typing import List\n\n\nclass AdaptiveInput(nn.Module):\n def __init__(\n self,\n vocab_size: int,\n padding_idx: int,\n initial_dim: int,\n factor: float,\n output_dim: int,\n cutoff: List[int],\n ):\n super().__init__()\n\n if vocab_size > cutoff[-1]:\n cutoff = cutoff + [vocab_size]\n else:\n assert (\n vocab_size == cutoff[-1]\n ), \"cannot specify cutoff larger than vocab size\"\n\n self.cutoff = cutoff\n self.embedding_dim = output_dim\n self.padding_idx = padding_idx\n\n self.embeddings = nn.ModuleList()\n for i in range(len(self.cutoff)):\n prev = self.cutoff[i - 1] if i > 0 else 0\n size = self.cutoff[i] - prev\n dim = int(initial_dim // (factor ** i))\n seq = nn.Sequential(\n nn.Embedding(size, dim, padding_idx),\n nn.Linear(dim, output_dim, bias=False),\n )\n self.embeddings.append(seq)\n\n def init_weights(m):\n if isinstance(m, nn.Embedding):\n nn.init.normal_(m.weight, mean=0, std=m.weight.shape[1] ** -0.5)\n nn.init.constant_(m.weight[padding_idx], 0)\n elif hasattr(m, \"weight\"):\n nn.init.xavier_uniform_(m.weight)\n\n self.apply(init_weights)\n\n self.register_buffer(\"_float_tensor\", torch.FloatTensor(1))\n\n def weights_for_band(self, band: int):\n return self.embeddings[band][0].weight, self.embeddings[band][1].weight\n\n def forward(self, input: torch.Tensor):\n result = self._float_tensor.new(input.shape + (self.embedding_dim,))\n for i in range(len(self.cutoff)):\n mask = input.lt(self.cutoff[i])\n if i > 0:\n mask.mul_(input.ge(self.cutoff[i - 1]))\n chunk_input = input[mask] - self.cutoff[i - 1]\n else:\n chunk_input = input[mask]\n if mask.any():\n result[mask] = self.embeddings[i](chunk_input)\n return result\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/adaptive_softmax.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport operator\nimport functools\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\nfrom torch import nn\n\n\nclass TiedLinear(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, weight, transpose):\n super().__init__()\n self.weight = weight\n self.transpose = transpose\n\n def forward(self, input):\n return F.linear(input, self.weight.t() if self.transpose else self.weight)\n\n\nclass TiedHeadModule(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, weights, input_dim, num_classes):\n super().__init__()\n tied_emb, _ = weights\n self.num_words, emb_dim = tied_emb.size()\n\n self.word_proj = TiedLinear(tied_emb, transpose=False)\n if input_dim != emb_dim:\n self.word_proj = nn.Sequential(\n nn.Linear(input_dim, emb_dim, bias=False), self.word_proj,\n )\n\n self.class_proj = nn.Linear(input_dim, num_classes, bias=False)\n self.out_dim = self.num_words + num_classes\n\n self.register_buffer(\"_float_tensor\", torch.FloatTensor(1))\n\n def forward(self, input):\n inp_sz = functools.reduce(operator.mul, input.shape[:-1], 1)\n out = self._float_tensor.new(inp_sz, self.out_dim)\n out[:, : self.num_words] = self.word_proj(input.view(inp_sz, -1))\n out[:, self.num_words :] = self.class_proj(input.view(inp_sz, -1))\n return out\n\n\nclass AdaptiveSoftmax(nn.Module):\n \"\"\"\n This is an implementation of the efficient softmax approximation for\n graphical processing units (GPU), described in the paper \"Efficient softmax\n approximation for GPUs\" (http://arxiv.org/abs/1609.04309).\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self,\n vocab_size,\n input_dim,\n cutoff,\n dropout,\n factor=4.0,\n adaptive_inputs=None,\n tie_proj=False,\n ):\n super().__init__()\n\n if vocab_size > cutoff[-1]:\n cutoff = cutoff + [vocab_size]\n else:\n assert (\n vocab_size == cutoff[-1]\n ), \"cannot specify cutoff larger than vocab size\"\n\n output_dim = cutoff[0] + len(cutoff) - 1\n\n self.vocab_size = vocab_size\n self.cutoff = cutoff\n self.dropout = dropout\n self.input_dim = input_dim\n self.factor = factor\n\n self.lsm = nn.LogSoftmax(dim=1)\n\n if adaptive_inputs is not None:\n self.head = TiedHeadModule(\n adaptive_inputs.weights_for_band(0), input_dim, len(cutoff) - 1\n )\n else:\n self.head = nn.Linear(input_dim, output_dim, bias=False)\n\n self._make_tail(adaptive_inputs, tie_proj)\n\n def init_weights(m):\n if (\n hasattr(m, \"weight\")\n and not isinstance(m, TiedLinear)\n and not isinstance(m, TiedHeadModule)\n ):\n nn.init.xavier_uniform_(m.weight)\n\n self.apply(init_weights)\n\n self.register_buffer(\"version\", torch.LongTensor([1]))\n\n def _make_tail(self, adaptive_inputs=None, tie_proj=False):\n self.tail = nn.ModuleList()\n for i in range(len(self.cutoff) - 1):\n dim = int(self.input_dim // self.factor ** (i + 1))\n\n tied_emb, tied_proj = (\n adaptive_inputs.weights_for_band(i + 1)\n if adaptive_inputs is not None\n else (None, None)\n )\n\n if tied_proj is not None:\n if tie_proj:\n proj = TiedLinear(tied_proj, transpose=True)\n else:\n proj = nn.Linear(tied_proj.size(0), tied_proj.size(1), bias=False)\n else:\n proj = nn.Linear(self.input_dim, dim, bias=False)\n\n m = nn.Sequential(\n proj,\n nn.Dropout(self.dropout),\n nn.Linear(dim, self.cutoff[i + 1] - self.cutoff[i], bias=False,)\n if tied_emb is None\n else TiedLinear(tied_emb, transpose=False),\n )\n\n self.tail.append(m)\n\n def upgrade_state_dict_named(self, state_dict, name):\n version_name = name + \".version\"\n if version_name not in state_dict:\n raise Exception(\"This version of the model is no longer supported\")\n\n def adapt_target(self, target):\n \"\"\"\n In order to be efficient, the AdaptiveSoftMax does not compute the\n scores for all the word of the vocabulary for all the examples. It is\n thus necessary to call the method adapt_target of the AdaptiveSoftMax\n layer inside each forward pass.\n \"\"\"\n\n target = target.view(-1)\n new_target = [target.clone()]\n target_idxs = []\n\n for i in range(len(self.cutoff) - 1):\n mask = target.ge(self.cutoff[i]).mul(target.lt(self.cutoff[i + 1]))\n new_target[0][mask] = self.cutoff[0] + i\n\n if mask.any():\n target_idxs.append(mask.nonzero().squeeze(1))\n new_target.append(target[mask].add(-self.cutoff[i]))\n else:\n target_idxs.append(None)\n new_target.append(None)\n\n return new_target, target_idxs\n\n def forward(self, input, target):\n \"\"\"\n Args:\n input: (b x t x d)\n target: (b x t)\n Returns:\n 2 lists: output for each cutoff section and new targets by cut off\n \"\"\"\n\n input = input.contiguous().view(-1, input.size(-1))\n input = F.dropout(input, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n\n new_target, target_idxs = self.adapt_target(target)\n output = [self.head(input)]\n\n for i in range(len(target_idxs)):\n if target_idxs[i] is not None:\n output.append(self.tail[i](input.index_select(0, target_idxs[i])))\n else:\n output.append(None)\n\n return output, new_target\n\n def get_log_prob(self, input, target):\n \"\"\"\n Computes the log probabilities for all the words of the vocabulary,\n given a 2D tensor of hidden vectors.\n \"\"\"\n\n bsz, length, dim = input.size()\n input = input.contiguous().view(-1, dim)\n\n if target is not None:\n _, target_idxs = self.adapt_target(target)\n else:\n target_idxs = None\n\n head_y = self.head(input)\n log_probs = head_y.new_zeros(input.size(0), self.vocab_size)\n\n head_sz = self.cutoff[0] + len(self.tail)\n log_probs[:, :head_sz] = self.lsm(head_y)\n tail_priors = log_probs[:, self.cutoff[0] : head_sz].clone()\n\n for i in range(len(self.tail)):\n start = self.cutoff[i]\n end = self.cutoff[i + 1]\n\n if target_idxs is None:\n tail_out = log_probs[:, start:end]\n tail_out.copy_(self.tail[i](input))\n log_probs[:, start:end] = self.lsm(tail_out).add_(\n tail_priors[:, i, None]\n )\n elif target_idxs[i] is not None:\n idxs = target_idxs[i]\n tail_out = log_probs[idxs, start:end]\n tail_out.copy_(self.tail[i](input[idxs]))\n log_probs[idxs, start:end] = self.lsm(tail_out).add_(\n tail_priors[idxs, i, None]\n )\n\n log_probs = log_probs.view(bsz, length, -1)\n return log_probs\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/beamable_mm.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn as nn\n\n\nclass BeamableMM(nn.Module):\n \"\"\"This module provides an optimized MM for beam decoding with attention.\n\n It leverage the fact that the source-side of the input is replicated beam\n times and the target-side of the input is of width one. This layer speeds up\n inference by replacing the inputs {(bsz x 1 x nhu), (bsz x sz2 x nhu)}\n with smaller inputs {(bsz/beam x beam x nhu), (bsz/beam x sz2 x nhu)}.\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, beam_size=None):\n super(BeamableMM, self).__init__()\n self.beam_size = beam_size\n\n def forward(self, input1, input2):\n if (\n not self.training\n and self.beam_size is not None # test mode\n and input1.dim() == 3 # beam size is set\n and input1.size(1) # only support batched input\n == 1 # single time step update\n ):\n bsz, beam = input1.size(0), self.beam_size\n\n # bsz x 1 x nhu --> bsz/beam x beam x nhu\n input1 = input1[:, 0, :].unfold(0, beam, beam).transpose(2, 1)\n\n # bsz x sz2 x nhu --> bsz/beam x sz2 x nhu\n input2 = input2.unfold(0, beam, beam)[:, :, :, 0]\n\n # use non batched operation if bsz = beam\n if input1.size(0) == 1:\n output = torch.mm(input1[0, :, :], input2[0, :, :])\n else:\n output = input1.bmm(input2)\n return output.view(bsz, 1, -1)\n else:\n return input1.bmm(input2)\n\n def set_beam_size(self, beam_size):\n self.beam_size = beam_size\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/character_token_embedder.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom torch import nn\n\nfrom typing import List, Tuple\n\nfrom .highway import Highway\nfrom fairseq.data import Dictionary\n\nCHAR_PAD_IDX = 0\nCHAR_EOS_IDX = 257\n\n\nclass CharacterTokenEmbedder(torch.nn.Module):\n def __init__(\n self,\n vocab: Dictionary,\n filters: List[Tuple[int, int]],\n char_embed_dim: int,\n word_embed_dim: int,\n highway_layers: int,\n max_char_len: int = 50,\n char_inputs: bool = False,\n ):\n super(CharacterTokenEmbedder, self).__init__()\n\n self.onnx_trace = False\n self.embedding_dim = word_embed_dim\n self.max_char_len = max_char_len\n self.char_embeddings = nn.Embedding(257, char_embed_dim, padding_idx=0)\n self.symbol_embeddings = nn.Parameter(torch.FloatTensor(2, word_embed_dim))\n self.eos_idx, self.unk_idx = 0, 1\n self.char_inputs = char_inputs\n\n self.convolutions = nn.ModuleList()\n for width, out_c in filters:\n self.convolutions.append(\n nn.Conv1d(char_embed_dim, out_c, kernel_size=width)\n )\n\n last_dim = sum(f[1] for f in filters)\n\n self.highway = Highway(last_dim, highway_layers) if highway_layers > 0 else None\n\n self.projection = nn.Linear(last_dim, word_embed_dim)\n\n assert (\n vocab is not None or char_inputs\n ), \"vocab must be set if not using char inputs\"\n self.vocab = None\n if vocab is not None:\n self.set_vocab(vocab, max_char_len)\n\n self.reset_parameters()\n\n def prepare_for_onnx_export_(self):\n self.onnx_trace = True\n\n def set_vocab(self, vocab, max_char_len):\n word_to_char = torch.LongTensor(len(vocab), max_char_len)\n\n truncated = 0\n for i in range(len(vocab)):\n if i < vocab.nspecial:\n char_idxs = [0] * max_char_len\n else:\n chars = vocab[i].encode()\n # +1 for padding\n char_idxs = [c + 1 for c in chars] + [0] * (max_char_len - len(chars))\n if len(char_idxs) > max_char_len:\n truncated += 1\n char_idxs = char_idxs[:max_char_len]\n word_to_char[i] = torch.LongTensor(char_idxs)\n\n if truncated > 0:\n print(\n \"Truncated {} words longer than {} characters\".format(\n truncated, max_char_len\n )\n )\n\n self.vocab = vocab\n self.word_to_char = word_to_char\n\n @property\n def padding_idx(self):\n return Dictionary().pad() if self.vocab is None else self.vocab.pad()\n\n def reset_parameters(self):\n nn.init.xavier_normal_(self.char_embeddings.weight)\n nn.init.xavier_normal_(self.symbol_embeddings)\n nn.init.xavier_uniform_(self.projection.weight)\n\n nn.init.constant_(\n self.char_embeddings.weight[self.char_embeddings.padding_idx], 0.0\n )\n nn.init.constant_(self.projection.bias, 0.0)\n\n def forward(\n self, input: torch.Tensor,\n ):\n if self.char_inputs:\n chars = input.view(-1, self.max_char_len)\n pads = chars[:, 0].eq(CHAR_PAD_IDX)\n eos = chars[:, 0].eq(CHAR_EOS_IDX)\n if eos.any():\n if self.onnx_trace:\n chars = torch.where(eos.unsqueeze(1), chars.new_zeros(1), chars)\n else:\n chars[eos] = 0\n\n unk = None\n else:\n flat_words = input.view(-1)\n chars = self.word_to_char[flat_words.type_as(self.word_to_char)].type_as(\n input\n )\n pads = flat_words.eq(self.vocab.pad())\n eos = flat_words.eq(self.vocab.eos())\n unk = flat_words.eq(self.vocab.unk())\n\n word_embs = self._convolve(chars)\n if self.onnx_trace:\n if pads.any():\n word_embs = torch.where(\n pads.unsqueeze(1), word_embs.new_zeros(1), word_embs\n )\n if eos.any():\n word_embs = torch.where(\n eos.unsqueeze(1), self.symbol_embeddings[self.eos_idx], word_embs\n )\n if unk is not None and unk.any():\n word_embs = torch.where(\n unk.unsqueeze(1), self.symbol_embeddings[self.unk_idx], word_embs\n )\n else:\n if pads.any():\n word_embs[pads] = 0\n if eos.any():\n word_embs[eos] = self.symbol_embeddings[self.eos_idx]\n if unk is not None and unk.any():\n word_embs[unk] = self.symbol_embeddings[self.unk_idx]\n\n return word_embs.view(input.size()[:2] + (-1,))\n\n def _convolve(\n self, char_idxs: torch.Tensor,\n ):\n char_embs = self.char_embeddings(char_idxs)\n char_embs = char_embs.transpose(1, 2) # BTC -> BCT\n\n conv_result = []\n\n for i, conv in enumerate(self.convolutions):\n x = conv(char_embs)\n x, _ = torch.max(x, -1)\n x = F.relu(x)\n conv_result.append(x)\n\n x = torch.cat(conv_result, dim=-1)\n\n if self.highway is not None:\n x = self.highway(x)\n x = self.projection(x)\n\n return x\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/conv_tbc.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\nfrom torch.nn.modules.utils import _single\n\n\nclass ConvTBC(torch.nn.Module):\n \"\"\"1D convolution over an input of shape (time x batch x channel)\n\n The implementation uses gemm to perform the convolution. This implementation\n is faster than cuDNN for small kernel sizes.\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, in_channels, out_channels, kernel_size, padding=0):\n super(ConvTBC, self).__init__()\n self.in_channels = in_channels\n self.out_channels = out_channels\n self.kernel_size = _single(kernel_size)\n self.padding = _single(padding)\n\n self.weight = torch.nn.Parameter(\n torch.Tensor(self.kernel_size[0], in_channels, out_channels)\n )\n self.bias = torch.nn.Parameter(torch.Tensor(out_channels))\n\n def forward(self, input):\n return torch.conv_tbc(\n input.contiguous(), self.weight, self.bias, self.padding[0]\n )\n\n def __repr__(self):\n s = (\n \"{name}({in_channels}, {out_channels}, kernel_size={kernel_size}\"\n \", padding={padding}\"\n )\n if self.bias is None:\n s += \", bias=False\"\n s += \")\"\n return s.format(name=self.__class__.__name__, **self.__dict__)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/cuda_utils.cu", "content": "/**\n * Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n * \n * This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n * LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n */\n\n\ntemplate <typename U, typename V>\t\nconstexpr __host__ __device__ auto divUp(U a, V b) -> decltype(a + b) {\t\n return (a + b - 1) / b;\t\n}\n\n\ntemplate<int FS, int SB, int padding_l, typename scalar_t>\n__inline__ __device__\nvoid zeroSharedMem(scalar_t* data) {\n /*\n Given an array of length FS + SB, zero out the first padding_l and last\n (FS - padding_l) values in the array\n */\n\n int tid = threadIdx.x;\n\n if (FS < SB) {\n\n // zero all if we have enough threads in a block to do all of them\n if (tid < padding_l || tid > SB - FS + padding_l - 1) {\n data[tid] = scalar_t(0.0);\n }\n } else {\n\n // otherwise zero out one block at a time\n const int numIterations = divUp<int, int>(FS, SB);\n for (int i = 0; i < numIterations; i++) {\n int offset = i * SB;\n if (tid + offset < padding_l) {\n data[tid + offset] = scalar_t(0.0);\n } else if (tid + offset < FS) {\n data[SB + tid + offset] = scalar_t(0.0);\n }\n }\n }\n}\n\ntemplate<typename scalar_t>\n__inline__ __device__\nscalar_t warpReduce(scalar_t data) {\n /*\n Reduce an array within each warp. After processing all values in warp will\n caontain the sum of all original values in that warp.\n\n data - pointer to data to reduce\n */\n data += __shfl_xor_sync(SHFL_MASK, data, 16);\n data += __shfl_xor_sync(SHFL_MASK, data, 8);\n data += __shfl_xor_sync(SHFL_MASK, data, 4);\n data += __shfl_xor_sync(SHFL_MASK, data, 2);\n data += __shfl_xor_sync(SHFL_MASK, data, 1);\n return data;\n}\n\ntemplate<typename scalar_t>\n__inline__ __device__\nscalar_t blockReduce(scalar_t data) {\n /*\n Reduce an entire array on the block level. After processing, the\n first value in the array will contain the reduced sum.\n\n data - pointer to data to reduce\n */\n\n static __shared__ scalar_t warpSum[32];\n const int tid = threadIdx.x;\n int wid = tid / 32;\n int lane = tid % 32;\n\n __syncthreads();\n\n // reduce each warp then write to shared memory\n scalar_t sum = warpReduce(data);\n if (lane == 0) {\n warpSum[wid] = sum;\n }\n \n __syncthreads();\n\n scalar_t v;\n // perform final sum of partial warp sums\n if (tid < blockDim.x / 32) {\n v = warpSum[lane];\n } else {\n v = scalar_t(0.0);\n }\n\n if (wid == 0) {\n v = warpReduce(v);\n }\n __syncthreads();\n\n return v;\n}\n\nvoid checkCudaStatus(cudaError_t status, int lineNumber = -1) {\n\n if (status != cudaSuccess) {\n std::cout << cudaGetErrorString(status)\n << \" at line \" << lineNumber << std::endl;\n std::cout << \"Exiting\" << std::endl;\n exit(1);\n }\n}\n\ntemplate<int FS, int SB, int padding_l, typename scalar_t>\n__device__\nvoid load_input_to_shared(const scalar_t* input, // global memory\n int inputOffset, int sequenceLength,\n int iteration, int numIterations,\n bool no_prev, scalar_t* output /* shared memory */) {\n /*\n Load a block size of input into shared memory with\n right and left overhang of total size FS. If previously\n loaded memory, overlap will be shifted over to reduce\n global memory access\n\n input - pointer to start of channel sequence\n inputOffset - how far in the sequence to start loading\n sequenceLength - total length of sequence\n iteration - which block of sequence we are loading\n numIterations - total number of blocks to load\n no_prev - whether to load the whole block if the previous block\n wasn't loaded\n output - shared memory to write input to\n */\n\n const int tid = threadIdx.x;\n\n // Load the left \"overhang\" of input\n if (iteration > 0) {\n if (padding_l < SB) {\n\n // load all at once\n if (tid < padding_l) {\n output[tid] = (no_prev) ? input[inputOffset - padding_l + tid] : output[tid + SB];\n }\n } else {\n\n // load in chunks of size SB\n int numIterations = divUp<int, int>(padding_l, SB);\n for (int i = 0; i < numIterations; i++) {\n int offset = i * SB;\n if ((tid + offset) < padding_l) {\n output[tid + offset] = (no_prev) ? input[inputOffset - padding_l + tid + offset] : output[tid + offset + SB];\n }\n }\n }\n }\n\n // Load the right \"overhang\" of input\n if (iteration < (numIterations - 1)) {\n const int elementsLeft = sequenceLength - (iteration+1) * SB;\n\n if ((FS - padding_l) < SB) {\n\n // load all at once\n if (tid < (FS - padding_l)) {\n output[padding_l + SB + tid] = (tid < elementsLeft) ? input[inputOffset + SB + tid] : scalar_t(0.0);\n }\n } else {\n\n // load in chunks of size SB\n int numIterations = divUp<int, int>(FS - padding_l, SB);\n for (int i = 0; i < numIterations; i++) {\n int offset = i * SB;\n if ((tid + offset) < (FS - padding_l)) {\n output[padding_l + SB + tid + offset] = ((tid + offset) < elementsLeft) ? input[inputOffset + SB + tid + offset] : scalar_t(0.0);\n }\n }\n }\n }\n\n // We should also clear out the right \"overhang\"\n if (iteration == (numIterations - 1)) {\n if ((FS - padding_l) < SB) {\n\n // clear out all at once\n if (tid < (FS - padding_l)) {\n output[padding_l + SB + tid] = scalar_t(0.0);\n }\n } else {\n\n // clear in chunks of size SB\n int numIterations = divUp<int, int>(FS - padding_l, SB);\n for (int i = 0; i < numIterations; i++) {\n int offset = i * SB;\n if ((tid + offset) < (FS - padding_l)) {\n output[padding_l + SB + tid + offset] = scalar_t(0.0);\n }\n }\n }\n }\n output[tid + padding_l] = ((inputOffset + tid) < sequenceLength) ? input[inputOffset + tid] : scalar_t(0.0);\n}\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/downsampled_multihead_attention.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n#\n\nimport math\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn as nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\nfrom fairseq.modules.scalar_bias import scalar_bias\n\n\nclass SingleHeadAttention(nn.Module):\n \"\"\"\n Single-head attention that supports Gating and Downsampling\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self,\n out_channels,\n embed_dim,\n head_dim,\n head_index,\n dropout=0.0,\n bias=True,\n project_input=True,\n gated=False,\n downsample=False,\n num_heads=1,\n ):\n super().__init__()\n self.embed_dim = embed_dim\n self.dropout = dropout\n self.head_index = head_index\n self.head_dim = head_dim\n self.project_input = project_input\n self.gated = gated\n self.downsample = downsample\n self.num_heads = num_heads\n self.projection = None\n\n k_layers = []\n v_layers = []\n if self.downsample:\n k_layers.append(Downsample(self.head_index))\n v_layers.append(Downsample(self.head_index))\n out_proj_size = self.head_dim\n else:\n out_proj_size = self.head_dim * self.num_heads\n if self.gated:\n k_layers.append(GatedLinear(self.embed_dim, out_proj_size, bias=bias))\n self.in_proj_q = GatedLinear(self.embed_dim, out_proj_size, bias=bias)\n v_layers.append(GatedLinear(self.embed_dim, out_proj_size, bias=bias))\n else:\n k_layers.append(Linear(self.embed_dim, out_proj_size, bias=bias))\n self.in_proj_q = Linear(self.embed_dim, out_proj_size, bias=bias)\n v_layers.append(Linear(self.embed_dim, out_proj_size, bias=bias))\n\n self.in_proj_k = nn.Sequential(*k_layers)\n self.in_proj_v = nn.Sequential(*v_layers)\n\n if self.downsample:\n self.out_proj = Linear(out_proj_size, self.head_dim, bias=bias)\n else:\n self.out_proj = Linear(out_proj_size, out_channels, bias=bias)\n\n self.scaling = self.head_dim ** -0.5\n\n def forward(\n self,\n query,\n key,\n value,\n mask_future_timesteps=False,\n key_padding_mask=None,\n use_scalar_bias=False,\n ):\n \"\"\"Input shape: Time x Batch x Channel\n Self-attention can be implemented by passing in the same arguments for\n query, key and value. Future timesteps can be masked with the\n `mask_future_timesteps` argument. Padding elements can be excluded from\n the key by passing a binary ByteTensor (`key_padding_mask`) with shape:\n batch x src_len, where padding elements are indicated by 1s.\n \"\"\"\n src_len, bsz, out_channels = key.size()\n tgt_len = query.size(0)\n assert list(query.size()) == [tgt_len, bsz, out_channels]\n assert key.size() == value.size()\n\n if key_padding_mask is not None:\n assert key_padding_mask.size(0) == bsz\n assert key_padding_mask.size(1) == src_len\n\n if self.downsample:\n size = bsz\n else:\n size = bsz * self.num_heads\n\n k = key\n v = value\n q = query\n if self.project_input:\n q = self.in_proj_q(q)\n k = self.in_proj_k(k)\n v = self.in_proj_v(v)\n src_len = k.size()[0]\n q *= self.scaling\n\n if not self.downsample:\n q = q.view(tgt_len, size, self.head_dim)\n k = k.view(src_len, size, self.head_dim)\n v = v.view(src_len, size, self.head_dim)\n\n q = q.transpose(0, 1)\n k = k.transpose(0, 1)\n v = v.transpose(0, 1)\n\n attn_weights = torch.bmm(q, k.transpose(1, 2))\n if mask_future_timesteps:\n assert (\n query.size() == key.size()\n ), \"mask_future_timesteps only applies to self-attention\"\n attn_weights *= torch.tril(\n attn_weights.data.new([1]).expand(tgt_len, tgt_len).clone(),\n diagonal=-1,\n )[:, :: self.head_index + 1 if self.downsample else 1].unsqueeze(0)\n attn_weights += torch.triu(\n attn_weights.data.new([-math.inf]).expand(tgt_len, tgt_len).clone(),\n diagonal=0,\n )[:, :: self.head_index + 1 if self.downsample else 1].unsqueeze(0)\n tgt_size = tgt_len\n if use_scalar_bias:\n attn_weights = scalar_bias(attn_weights, 2)\n v = scalar_bias(v, 1)\n tgt_size += 1\n\n if key_padding_mask is not None:\n # don't attend to padding symbols\n if key_padding_mask.max() > 0:\n if self.downsample:\n attn_weights = attn_weights.view(bsz, 1, tgt_len, src_len)\n else:\n attn_weights = attn_weights.view(\n size, self.num_heads, tgt_len, src_len\n )\n attn_weights = attn_weights.masked_fill(\n key_padding_mask.unsqueeze(1).unsqueeze(2), -math.inf,\n )\n attn_weights = attn_weights.view(size, tgt_len, src_len)\n attn_weights = F.softmax(attn_weights, dim=-1)\n attn_weights = F.dropout(attn_weights, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n\n attn = torch.bmm(attn_weights, v)\n if self.downsample:\n attn = attn.transpose(0, 1).contiguous().view(tgt_len, bsz, self.head_dim)\n else:\n attn = attn.transpose(0, 1).contiguous().view(tgt_len, bsz, self.embed_dim)\n\n attn = self.out_proj(attn)\n\n return attn, attn_weights\n\n\nclass DownsampledMultiHeadAttention(nn.ModuleList):\n \"\"\"\n Multi-headed attention with Gating and Downsampling\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self,\n out_channels,\n embed_dim,\n num_heads,\n dropout=0.0,\n bias=True,\n project_input=True,\n gated=False,\n downsample=False,\n ):\n self.embed_dim = embed_dim\n self.num_heads = num_heads\n self.dropout = dropout\n self.head_dim = embed_dim // num_heads\n self.downsample = downsample\n self.gated = gated\n self.project_input = project_input\n assert self.head_dim * num_heads == embed_dim\n\n if self.downsample:\n attention_heads = []\n for index in range(self.num_heads):\n attention_heads.append(\n SingleHeadAttention(\n out_channels,\n self.embed_dim,\n self.head_dim,\n index,\n self.dropout,\n bias,\n self.project_input,\n self.gated,\n self.downsample,\n self.num_heads,\n )\n )\n super().__init__(modules=attention_heads)\n self.out_proj = Linear(embed_dim, out_channels, bias=bias)\n else:\n # either we have a list of attention heads, or just one attention head\n # if not being downsampled, we can do the heads with one linear layer instead of separate ones\n super().__init__()\n self.attention_module = SingleHeadAttention(\n out_channels,\n self.embed_dim,\n self.head_dim,\n 1,\n self.dropout,\n bias,\n self.project_input,\n self.gated,\n self.downsample,\n self.num_heads,\n )\n\n def forward(\n self,\n query,\n key,\n value,\n mask_future_timesteps=False,\n key_padding_mask=None,\n use_scalar_bias=False,\n ):\n src_len, bsz, embed_dim = key.size()\n tgt_len = query.size(0)\n assert embed_dim == self.embed_dim\n assert list(query.size()) == [tgt_len, bsz, embed_dim]\n assert key.size() == value.size()\n\n tgt_size = tgt_len\n if use_scalar_bias:\n tgt_size += 1\n\n attn = []\n attn_weights = []\n if self.downsample:\n for attention_head_number in range(self.num_heads):\n # call the forward of each attention head\n _attn, _attn_weight = self[attention_head_number](\n query,\n key,\n value,\n mask_future_timesteps,\n key_padding_mask,\n use_scalar_bias,\n )\n attn.append(_attn)\n attn_weights.append(_attn_weight)\n full_attn = torch.cat(attn, dim=2)\n full_attn = self.out_proj(full_attn)\n return full_attn, attn_weights[0].clone()\n else:\n _attn, _attn_weight = self.attention_module(\n query,\n key,\n value,\n mask_future_timesteps,\n key_padding_mask,\n use_scalar_bias,\n )\n attn.append(_attn)\n attn_weights.append(_attn_weight)\n full_attn = torch.cat(attn, dim=2)\n full_attn_weights = torch.cat(attn_weights)\n full_attn_weights = full_attn_weights.view(\n bsz, self.num_heads, tgt_size, src_len\n )\n full_attn_weights = full_attn_weights.sum(dim=1) / self.num_heads\n return full_attn, full_attn_weights\n\n\nclass Downsample(nn.Module):\n \"\"\"\n Selects every nth element, where n is the index\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, index):\n super().__init__()\n self.index = index\n\n def forward(self, x):\n return x[:: self.index + 1]\n\n\ndef Linear(in_features, out_features, dropout=0.0, bias=True):\n \"\"\"Weight-normalized Linear layer (input: B x T x C)\"\"\"\n m = nn.Linear(in_features, out_features, bias=bias)\n m.weight.data.normal_(mean=0, std=math.sqrt((1 - dropout) / in_features))\n m.bias.data.zero_()\n return nn.utils.weight_norm(m)\n\n\ndef GatedLinear(in_features, out_features, dropout=0.0, bias=True):\n \"\"\"Weight-normalized Linear layer (input: B x T x C) with interspersed GLU units\"\"\"\n return nn.Sequential(\n Linear(in_features, out_features * 4, dropout, bias),\n nn.GLU(),\n Linear(out_features * 2, out_features * 2, dropout, bias),\n nn.GLU(),\n Linear(out_features, out_features, dropout, bias),\n )\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/dynamic_convolution.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn as nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\nfrom .unfold import unfold1d\n\n\ndef DynamicConv(\n input_size,\n kernel_size=1,\n padding_l=None,\n num_heads=1,\n weight_dropout=0.0,\n weight_softmax=False,\n renorm_padding=False,\n bias=False,\n conv_bias=False,\n query_size=None,\n in_proj=False,\n):\n if torch.cuda.is_available():\n try:\n from fairseq.modules.dynamicconv_layer import DynamicconvLayer\n\n return DynamicconvLayer(\n input_size,\n kernel_size=kernel_size,\n padding_l=padding_l,\n num_heads=num_heads,\n weight_dropout=weight_dropout,\n weight_softmax=weight_softmax,\n bias=bias,\n )\n except ImportError as e:\n print(e)\n return DynamicConv1dTBC(\n input_size,\n kernel_size=kernel_size,\n padding_l=padding_l,\n num_heads=num_heads,\n weight_dropout=weight_dropout,\n weight_softmax=weight_softmax,\n bias=bias,\n )\n\n\ndef Linear(in_features, out_features, bias=True):\n m = nn.Linear(in_features, out_features, bias)\n nn.init.xavier_uniform_(m.weight)\n if bias:\n nn.init.constant_(m.bias, 0.0)\n return m\n\n\nclass DynamicConv1dTBC(nn.Module):\n \"\"\"Dynamic lightweight convolution taking T x B x C inputs\n Args:\n input_size: # of channels of the input\n kernel_size: convolution channels\n padding_l: padding to the left when using \"same\" padding\n num_heads: number of heads used. The weight is of shape (num_heads, 1, kernel_size)\n weight_dropout: the drop rate of the DropConnect to drop the weight\n weight_softmax: normalize the weight with softmax before the convolution\n renorm_padding: re-normalize the filters to ignore the padded part (only the non-padding parts sum up to 1)\n bias: use bias\n conv_bias: bias of the convolution\n query_size: specified when feeding a different input as the query\n in_proj: project the input and generate the filter together\n\n Shape:\n Input: TxBxC, i.e. (timesteps, batch_size, input_size)\n Output: TxBxC, i.e. (timesteps, batch_size, input_size)\n\n Attributes:\n weight: the learnable weights of the module of shape\n `(num_heads, 1, kernel_size)`\n bias: the learnable bias of the module of shape `(input_size)`\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self,\n input_size,\n kernel_size=1,\n padding_l=None,\n num_heads=1,\n weight_dropout=0.0,\n weight_softmax=False,\n renorm_padding=False,\n bias=False,\n conv_bias=False,\n query_size=None,\n in_proj=False,\n ):\n super().__init__()\n self.input_size = input_size\n self.query_size = input_size if query_size is None else query_size\n self.kernel_size = kernel_size\n self.padding_l = padding_l\n self.num_heads = num_heads\n self.weight_dropout = weight_dropout\n self.weight_softmax = weight_softmax\n self.renorm_padding = renorm_padding\n\n if in_proj:\n self.weight_linear = Linear(\n self.input_size, self.input_size + num_heads * kernel_size * 1\n )\n else:\n self.weight_linear = Linear(\n self.query_size, num_heads * kernel_size * 1, bias=bias\n )\n if conv_bias:\n self.conv_bias = nn.Parameter(torch.Tensor(input_size))\n else:\n self.conv_bias = None\n self.reset_parameters()\n\n @property\n def in_proj(self):\n return (\n self.weight_linear.out_features\n == self.input_size + self.num_heads * self.kernel_size\n )\n\n def reset_parameters(self):\n self.weight_linear.reset_parameters()\n if self.conv_bias is not None:\n nn.init.constant_(self.conv_bias, 0.0)\n\n def forward(self, x, incremental_state=None, query=None, unfold=None):\n \"\"\"Assuming the input, x, of the shape T x B x C and producing an output in the shape T x B x C\n args:\n x: Input of shape T x B x C, i.e. (timesteps, batch_size, input_size)\n incremental_state: A dict to keep the state\n unfold: unfold the input or not. If not, we use the matrix trick instead\n query: use the specified query to predict the conv filters\n \"\"\"\n unfold = (\n x.size(0) > 512 if unfold is None else unfold\n ) # use unfold mode as default for long sequence to save memory\n unfold = unfold or (incremental_state is not None)\n assert query is None or not self.in_proj\n\n if query is None:\n query = x\n if unfold:\n output = self._forward_unfolded(x, incremental_state, query)\n else:\n output = self._forward_expanded(x, incremental_state, query)\n\n if self.conv_bias is not None:\n output = output + self.conv_bias.view(1, 1, -1)\n return output\n\n def _forward_unfolded(self, x, incremental_state, query):\n \"\"\"The conventional implementation of convolutions.\n Unfolding the input by having a window shifting to the right.\"\"\"\n T, B, C = x.size()\n K, H = self.kernel_size, self.num_heads\n R = C // H\n assert R * H == C == self.input_size\n\n if self.in_proj:\n proj = self.weight_linear(x)\n x = proj.narrow(2, 0, self.input_size).contiguous()\n weight = (\n proj.narrow(2, self.input_size, H * K).contiguous().view(T * B * H, -1)\n )\n else:\n weight = self.weight_linear(query).view(T * B * H, -1)\n\n # renorm_padding is only implemented in _forward_expanded\n assert not self.renorm_padding or incremental_state is not None\n\n if incremental_state is not None:\n input_buffer = self._get_input_buffer(incremental_state)\n if input_buffer is None:\n input_buffer = x.new()\n x_unfold = torch.cat([input_buffer, x.unsqueeze(3)], dim=3)\n if self.kernel_size > 1:\n self._set_input_buffer(\n incremental_state, x_unfold[:, :, :, -self.kernel_size + 1 :]\n )\n x_unfold = x_unfold.view(T * B * H, R, -1)\n else:\n padding_l = self.padding_l\n if K > T and padding_l == K - 1:\n weight = weight.narrow(1, K - T, T)\n K, padding_l = T, T - 1\n # unfold the input: T x B x C --> T' x B x C x K\n x_unfold = unfold1d(x, K, padding_l, 0)\n x_unfold = x_unfold.view(T * B * H, R, K)\n\n if self.weight_softmax and not self.renorm_padding:\n weight = F.softmax(weight, dim=1)\n weight = weight.narrow(1, 0, K)\n\n if incremental_state is not None:\n weight = weight[:, -x_unfold.size(2) :]\n K = weight.size(1)\n\n if self.weight_softmax and self.renorm_padding:\n weight = F.softmax(weight, dim=1)\n\n weight = F.dropout(\n weight, self.weight_dropout, training=self.training, inplace=False\n )\n\n output = torch.bmm(x_unfold, weight.unsqueeze(2)) # T*B*H x R x 1\n output = output.view(T, B, C)\n return output\n\n def _forward_expanded(self, x, incremental_stat, query):\n \"\"\"Turn the convolution filters into band matrices and do matrix multiplication.\n This is faster when the sequence is short, but less memory efficient.\n This is not used in the decoder during inference.\n \"\"\"\n T, B, C = x.size()\n K, H = self.kernel_size, self.num_heads\n R = C // H\n assert R * H == C == self.input_size\n if self.in_proj:\n proj = self.weight_linear(x)\n x = proj.narrow(2, 0, self.input_size).contiguous()\n weight = (\n proj.narrow(2, self.input_size, H * K).contiguous().view(T * B * H, -1)\n )\n else:\n weight = self.weight_linear(query).view(T * B * H, -1)\n\n if not self.renorm_padding:\n if self.weight_softmax:\n weight = F.softmax(weight, dim=1)\n weight = F.dropout(\n weight, self.weight_dropout, training=self.training, inplace=False\n )\n weight = weight.narrow(1, 0, K).contiguous()\n weight = weight.view(T, B * H, K).transpose(0, 1)\n\n x = x.view(T, B * H, R).transpose(0, 1)\n if self.weight_softmax and self.renorm_padding:\n # turn the convolution filters into band matrices\n weight_expanded = weight.new(B * H, T, T + K - 1).fill_(float(\"-inf\"))\n weight_expanded.as_strided(\n (B * H, T, K), (T * (T + K - 1), T + K, 1)\n ).copy_(weight)\n weight_expanded = weight_expanded.narrow(2, self.padding_l, T)\n # normalize the weight over valid positions like self-attention\n weight_expanded = F.softmax(weight_expanded, dim=2)\n weight_expanded = F.dropout(\n weight_expanded,\n self.weight_dropout,\n training=self.training,\n inplace=False,\n )\n else:\n P = self.padding_l\n # For efficieny, we cut the kernel size and reduce the padding when the kernel is larger than the length\n if K > T and P == K - 1:\n weight = weight.narrow(2, K - T, T)\n K, P = T, T - 1\n # turn the convolution filters into band matrices\n weight_expanded = weight.new_zeros(B * H, T, T + K - 1, requires_grad=False)\n weight_expanded.as_strided(\n (B * H, T, K), (T * (T + K - 1), T + K, 1)\n ).copy_(weight)\n weight_expanded = weight_expanded.narrow(2, P, T) # B*H x T x T\n output = torch.bmm(weight_expanded, x)\n output = output.transpose(0, 1).contiguous().view(T, B, C)\n return output\n\n def reorder_incremental_state(self, incremental_state, new_order):\n input_buffer = self._get_input_buffer(incremental_state)\n if input_buffer is not None:\n input_buffer = input_buffer.index_select(1, new_order)\n self._set_input_buffer(incremental_state, input_buffer)\n\n def _get_input_buffer(self, incremental_state):\n return utils.get_incremental_state(self, incremental_state, \"input_buffer\")\n\n def _set_input_buffer(self, incremental_state, new_buffer):\n return utils.set_incremental_state(\n self, incremental_state, \"input_buffer\", new_buffer\n )\n\n def extra_repr(self):\n s = \"{}, kernel_size={}, padding_l={}, num_heads={}, weight_softmax={}, conv_bias={}, renorm_padding={}, in_proj={}\".format(\n self.input_size,\n self.kernel_size,\n self.padding_l,\n self.num_heads,\n self.weight_softmax,\n self.conv_bias is not None,\n self.renorm_padding,\n self.in_proj,\n )\n\n if self.query_size != self.input_size:\n s += \", query_size={}\".format(self.query_size)\n if self.weight_dropout > 0.0:\n s += \", weight_dropout={}\".format(self.weight_dropout)\n return s\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/dynamicconv_layer/__init__.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom .dynamicconv_layer import DynamicconvLayer # noqa\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/dynamicconv_layer/cuda_function_gen.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\n\ndef gen_forward():\n\n kernels = [3, 5, 7, 15, 31, 63, 127, 255]\n blocks = [32, 64, 128, 256]\n\n head = \"\"\"\n/**\n * Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n *\n * This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n * LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n */\n\n#include \"dynamicconv_cuda.cuh\"\n\nstd::vector<at::Tensor> dynamicconv_cuda_forward(at::Tensor input, at::Tensor weight, int padding_l) {\n\n at::DeviceGuard g(input.device());\n const auto minibatch = input.size(0);\n const auto numFeatures = input.size(1);\n const auto sequenceLength = input.size(2);\n\n const auto numHeads = weight.size(1);\n const auto filterSize = weight.size(2);\n\n const auto numFiltersInBlock = numFeatures / numHeads;\n const dim3 blocks(minibatch, numFeatures);\n\n auto output = at::zeros_like(input);\n auto stream = at::cuda::getCurrentCUDAStream();\n\"\"\"\n\n switch = \"\"\"\n switch(filterSize) {\n\"\"\"\n\n case_k = \"\"\"\n case {k}:\n\"\"\"\n\n main_block = \"\"\"\n if (padding_l == {pad}) {{\n AT_DISPATCH_FLOATING_TYPES_AND_HALF(input.scalar_type(), \"dynamicconv_forward\", ([&] {{\n dynamicconv_forward_kernel<{k}, {b_size}, {pad}, scalar_t>\n <<<blocks, {b_size}, 0, stream>>>(\n input.data<scalar_t>(),\n weight.data<scalar_t>(),\n minibatch,\n sequenceLength,\n numFeatures,\n numFiltersInBlock,\n numHeads,\n output.data<scalar_t>());\n }}));\n }} else\n\"\"\"\n\n bad_padding = \"\"\"\n {\n std::cout << \"WARNING: Unsupported padding size - skipping forward pass\" << std::endl;\n }\n break;\\n\n\"\"\"\n\n end = \"\"\"\n default:\n std::cout << \"WARNING: Unsupported filter length passed - skipping forward pass\" << std::endl;\n }\n\n return {output};\n}\n\"\"\"\n\n with open(\"dynamicconv_cuda_forward.cu\", \"w\") as forward:\n forward.write(head)\n forward.write(switch)\n for k in kernels:\n b_size = 32\n for b in blocks:\n if b > k:\n b_size = b\n break\n forward.write(case_k.format(k=k))\n for pad in [k // 2, k - 1]:\n forward.write(main_block.format(k=k, b_size=b_size, pad=pad))\n forward.write(bad_padding)\n forward.write(end)\n\n\ndef gen_backward():\n\n kernels = [3, 5, 7, 15, 31, 63, 127, 255]\n thresh = [512, 512, 512, 512, 512, 380, 256, 256]\n min_block = [64, 64, 64, 64, 64, 64, 128, 256]\n seqs = [32 * x for x in [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16]]\n\n head = \"\"\"\n/**\n * Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n *\n * This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n * LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n */\n\n#include \"dynamicconv_cuda.cuh\"\n\nstd::vector<at::Tensor> dynamicconv_cuda_backward(at::Tensor gradOutput, int padding_l, at::Tensor input, at::Tensor weight) {\n\n at::DeviceGuard g(input.device());\n const auto minibatch = input.size(0);\n const auto numFeatures = input.size(1);\n const auto sequenceLength = input.size(2);\n\n const auto numHeads = weight.size(1);\n const auto filterSize = weight.size(2);\n\n const auto numFiltersInBlock = numFeatures / numHeads;\n auto numChunks = 1;\n\n auto gradInput = at::zeros_like(input);\n auto gradWeight = at::zeros_like(weight);\n auto stream = at::cuda::getCurrentCUDAStream();\n\n dim3 blocks(minibatch, numHeads, numChunks);\n\"\"\"\n\n sequence_if = \"\"\"\n if (sequenceLength < {seq}) {{\n switch(filterSize) {{\n\"\"\"\n\n case_k = \"\"\"\n case {k}:\n\"\"\"\n\n chunks_reset = \"\"\"\n numChunks = int(ceilf(sequenceLength/float({b_size})));\n blocks = dim3(minibatch, numHeads, numChunks);\n\"\"\"\n\n main_block = \"\"\"\n if (padding_l == {p}) {{\n AT_DISPATCH_FLOATING_TYPES_AND_HALF(gradOutput.scalar_type(), \"dynamicconv_backward\", ([&] {{\n dynamicconv_backward_kernel<{k}, {b_size}, {p}, scalar_t>\n <<<blocks, {b_size}, 0, stream>>>(\n gradOutput.data<scalar_t>(),\n input.data<scalar_t>(),\n weight.data<scalar_t>(),\n minibatch,\n sequenceLength,\n numFeatures,\n numFiltersInBlock,\n numHeads,\n gradWeight.data<scalar_t>(),\n gradInput.data<scalar_t>());\n }}));\n }} else\n\"\"\"\n\n bad_padding = \"\"\"\n {\n std::cout << \"WARNING: Unsupported padding size - skipping backward pass\" << std::endl;\n }\n break;\\n\n\"\"\"\n\n bad_filter = \"\"\"\n default:\n std::cout << \"WARNING: Unsupported filter length passed - skipping backward pass\" << std::endl;\n }\n\"\"\"\n\n con_else = \"\"\"\n } else\n\"\"\"\n\n final_else = \"\"\"\n {\n switch(filterSize) {\n\"\"\"\n\n last_return = \"\"\"\n }\n return {gradInput, gradWeight};\n}\n\"\"\"\n\n with open(\"dynamicconv_cuda_backward.cu\", \"w\") as backward:\n backward.write(head)\n for seq in seqs:\n backward.write(sequence_if.format(seq=seq))\n for k, t, m in zip(kernels, thresh, min_block):\n backward.write(case_k.format(k=k))\n if seq <= t:\n b_size = seq\n else:\n b_size = m\n backward.write(chunks_reset.format(b_size=b_size))\n for p in [k // 2, k - 1]:\n backward.write(main_block.format(k=k, b_size=b_size, p=p))\n backward.write(bad_padding)\n backward.write(bad_filter)\n backward.write(con_else)\n backward.write(final_else)\n for k, m in zip(kernels, min_block):\n backward.write(case_k.format(k=k))\n backward.write(chunks_reset.format(b_size=m))\n for p in [k // 2, k - 1]:\n backward.write(main_block.format(k=k, b_size=m, p=p))\n backward.write(bad_padding)\n backward.write(bad_filter)\n backward.write(last_return)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n gen_forward()\n gen_backward()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/dynamicconv_layer/dynamicconv_cuda.cpp", "content": "/**\n * Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n *\n * This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n * LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n */\n\n#include <torch/extension.h>\n#include <vector>\n\nstd::vector<at::Tensor> dynamicconv_cuda_forward(\n at::Tensor input,\n at::Tensor filters,\n int padding_l);\n\nstd::vector<at::Tensor> dynamicconv_cuda_backward(\n at::Tensor gradOutput,\n int padding_l,\n at::Tensor input,\n at::Tensor filters);\n\n\n#define CHECK_CUDA(x) AT_ASSERTM(x.type().is_cuda(), #x \" must be a CUDA tensor\")\n#define CHECK_CONTIGUOUS(x) AT_ASSERTM(x.is_contiguous(), #x \" must be contiguous\")\n#define CHECK_INPUT(x) CHECK_CUDA(x); CHECK_CONTIGUOUS(x)\n\nstd::vector<at::Tensor> dynamicconv_forward(\n at::Tensor input,\n at::Tensor filters,\n int padding_l) {\n\n CHECK_INPUT(input);\n CHECK_INPUT(filters);\n\n return dynamicconv_cuda_forward(input, filters,\n padding_l);\n}\n\nstd::vector<at::Tensor> dynamicconv_backward(\n at::Tensor gradOutput,\n int padding_l,\n at::Tensor input,\n at::Tensor filters) {\n\n CHECK_INPUT(gradOutput);\n CHECK_INPUT(input);\n CHECK_INPUT(filters);\n\n return dynamicconv_cuda_backward(gradOutput, padding_l,\n input, filters);\n}\n\nPYBIND11_MODULE(TORCH_EXTENSION_NAME, m) {\n m.def(\"forward\", &dynamicconv_forward, \"dynamicconv forward (CUDA)\");\n m.def(\"backward\", &dynamicconv_backward, \"dynamicconv backward (CUDA)\");\n}\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/dynamicconv_layer/dynamicconv_cuda.cuh", "content": "/**\n * Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n * \n * This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n * LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n */\n\n#include <ATen/ATen.h>\n#include <c10/cuda/CUDAStream.h>\n\n#include <cuda.h>\n#include <cuda_fp16.h>\n#include <cuda_runtime.h>\n\n#include <algorithm>\n#include <functional>\n#include <iostream>\n#include <stdexcept>\n#include <utility>\n#include <vector>\n\n#include <stdlib.h>\n#include <assert.h>\n#include <math.h>\n\n#define SHFL_MASK 0xffffffff\n\ntemplate<int FS, int SB, int padding_l, typename scalar_t>\n__global__\nvoid dynamicconv_forward_kernel(const scalar_t* input,\n const scalar_t* weight,\n int minibatch, \n int sequenceLength,\n int numFeatures, \n int numFiltersInBlock,\n int numHeads,\n scalar_t* output);\n\ntemplate<int FS, int SB, int padding_l, typename scalar_t>\n__global__\nvoid dynamicconv_backward_kernel(\n const scalar_t* gradOutput, // B * C * T\n const scalar_t* input, // B * C * T\n const scalar_t* weight,\n int minibatch,\n int sequenceLength,\n int numFeatures,\n int numFiltersInBlock,\n int numHeads,\n scalar_t* gradWeight,\n scalar_t* gradInput); // B * H * k * T\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/dynamicconv_layer/dynamicconv_cuda_kernel.cu", "content": "/**\n * Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n * \n * This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n * LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n */\n\n#include \"dynamicconv_cuda.cuh\"\n#include \"dynamicconv_cuda_forward.cu\"\n#include \"dynamicconv_cuda_backward.cu\"\n#include \"../cuda_utils.cu\"\n\n// FS is filter size and kernels are specialized for filter sizes\ntemplate<int FS, int SB, int padding_l, typename scalar_t>\n__global__\nvoid dynamicconv_forward_kernel(const scalar_t* input,\n const scalar_t* weight,\n int minibatch,\n int sequenceLength,\n int numFeatures,\n int numFiltersInBlock,\n int numHeads,\n scalar_t* output) {\n assert(blockDim.x == SB);\n\n const int tid = threadIdx.x;\n const int batchIdx = blockIdx.x;\n const int featureIdx = blockIdx.y;\n const int head = featureIdx / numFiltersInBlock;\n\n const int IOOffset = batchIdx * numFeatures * sequenceLength\n + featureIdx * sequenceLength;\n const scalar_t* inputFeature = &input[IOOffset];\n scalar_t* outputFeature = &output[IOOffset];\n\n scalar_t filter[FS];\n\n __shared__ scalar_t tempInput[SB + FS];\n zeroSharedMem<FS, SB, padding_l>(tempInput);\n\n const int numIterations = divUp<int, int>(sequenceLength, SB);\n\n for (int i = 0; i < numIterations; ++i) {\n __syncthreads();\n const int inputOffset = i * SB;\n load_input_to_shared<FS, SB, padding_l>(inputFeature, inputOffset,\n sequenceLength, i,\n numIterations, false, tempInput);\n __syncthreads();\n if (inputOffset + tid < sequenceLength) {\n\n #pragma unroll\n for (int k = 0; k < FS; ++k) {\n const int filterOffset = batchIdx * numHeads * FS * sequenceLength\n + head * FS * sequenceLength\n + k * sequenceLength\n + i * SB + tid;\n filter[k] = weight[filterOffset];\n }\n\n scalar_t out = scalar_t(0.0);\n #pragma unroll\n for (int k = 0; k < FS; ++k) {\n out += filter[k] * tempInput[tid + k];\n }\n\n outputFeature[inputOffset + tid] = out;\n\n }\n }\n}\n\ntemplate<int FS, int SB, int padding_l, typename scalar_t>\n__global__\nvoid dynamicconv_backward_kernel(\n const scalar_t* gradOutput, // B * C * T\n const scalar_t* input, // B * C * T\n const scalar_t* weight,\n int minibatch,\n int sequenceLength,\n int numFeatures,\n int numFiltersInBlock,\n int numHeads,\n scalar_t* gradWeight,\n scalar_t* gradInput) { // B * H * k * T\n\n assert(blockDim.x == SB);\n\n // each block operates on a single batch and filter head\n const int tid = threadIdx.x;\n const int batchIdx = blockIdx.x;\n const int headIdx = blockIdx.y;\n const int chunkIdx = blockIdx.z;\n\n const int numChunks = divUp<int, int>(sequenceLength, SB);\n const int inputOffset = chunkIdx * SB;\n\n // initialize shared memory for output gradient and input\n __shared__ scalar_t tempGradOutput[SB + FS];\n __shared__ scalar_t tempInput[SB + FS];\n const int padding = FS - padding_l - 1;\n\n zeroSharedMem<FS, SB, padding>(tempGradOutput);\n zeroSharedMem<FS, SB, padding_l>(tempInput);\n\n // initialize local filter and weight gradient sum arrays\n scalar_t tempGradSum[FS];\n scalar_t bfilter[FS];\n for (int k = 0; k < FS; ++k) {\n tempGradSum[k] = scalar_t(0.0);\n\n int idxOffset = inputOffset + tid + k - padding;\n if (idxOffset >= 0 && idxOffset < sequenceLength) {\n int bfilterOffset = batchIdx * numHeads * FS * sequenceLength\n + headIdx * FS * sequenceLength\n + (FS - k - 1) * sequenceLength\n + idxOffset;\n bfilter[k] = weight[bfilterOffset];\n } else {\n bfilter[k] = scalar_t(0.0);\n }\n }\n\n\n // iterate over filter block\n for (int featureIdx = 0; featureIdx < numFiltersInBlock; ++featureIdx) {\n __syncthreads();\n\n // load input and output gradient for this channel and chunk\n const int IOOffset = batchIdx * numFeatures * sequenceLength\n + (headIdx * numFiltersInBlock + featureIdx) * sequenceLength;\n const scalar_t* inputFeature = &input[IOOffset];\n const scalar_t* gradOutputFeature = &gradOutput[IOOffset];\n scalar_t* gradInputFeature = &gradInput[IOOffset];\n\n load_input_to_shared<FS, SB, padding>(gradOutputFeature, inputOffset,\n sequenceLength, chunkIdx,\n numChunks, true, tempGradOutput);\n load_input_to_shared<FS, SB, padding_l>(inputFeature, inputOffset,\n sequenceLength, chunkIdx,\n numChunks, true, tempInput);\n __syncthreads();\n \n // sum input and weight gradients\n scalar_t out = scalar_t(0.0);\n #pragma unroll\n for (int k = 0; k < FS; ++k) {\n tempGradSum[k] += tempInput[tid + k] * tempGradOutput[tid + padding];\n out += bfilter[k] * tempGradOutput[tid + k];\n }\n \n if (inputOffset + tid < sequenceLength) {\n gradInputFeature[inputOffset + tid] = out;\n }\n }\n\n const int gradOffset = batchIdx * numHeads * FS * sequenceLength\n + headIdx * FS * sequenceLength;\n scalar_t *gradWeightFeature = &gradWeight[gradOffset];\n\n // write weight gradient\n if (inputOffset + tid < sequenceLength) {\n for (int k = 0; k < FS; ++k) {\n const int outputOffset = k * sequenceLength + inputOffset + tid;\n gradWeightFeature[outputOffset] = tempGradSum[k];\n }\n }\n}\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/dynamicconv_layer/dynamicconv_layer.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\nfrom torch.autograd import Function\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nimport dynamicconv_cuda\nfrom fairseq import utils\nfrom fairseq.modules.unfold import unfold1d\n\n\nclass dynamicconvFunction(Function):\n @staticmethod\n def forward(ctx, x, weights, padding_l):\n ctx.padding_l = padding_l\n outputs = dynamicconv_cuda.forward(x, weights, padding_l)\n variables = [x, weights]\n ctx.save_for_backward(*variables)\n return outputs[0]\n\n @staticmethod\n def backward(ctx, grad_output):\n outputs = dynamicconv_cuda.backward(\n grad_output.contiguous(), ctx.padding_l, *ctx.saved_variables\n )\n grad_input, grad_weights = outputs\n return grad_input, grad_weights, None\n\n\nclass DynamicconvLayer(nn.Module):\n def __init__(\n self,\n input_size,\n kernel_size=1,\n padding_l=None,\n weight_softmax=False,\n num_heads=1,\n weight_dropout=0.0,\n bias=False,\n renorm_padding=False,\n conv_bias=False,\n query_size=None,\n ):\n\n super(DynamicconvLayer, self).__init__()\n self.input_size = input_size\n self.query_size = input_size if query_size is None else query_size\n self.kernel_size = kernel_size\n self.padding_l = padding_l\n self.num_heads = num_heads\n self.weight_softmax = weight_softmax\n self.weight_dropout = weight_dropout\n self.renorm_padding = renorm_padding\n self.bias = bias\n\n self.weight_linear = nn.Linear(input_size, num_heads * kernel_size, bias)\n if conv_bias:\n self.conv_bias = nn.Parameter(torch.Tensor(input_size))\n else:\n self.conv_bias = None\n self.reset_parameters()\n\n def reset_parameters(self):\n nn.init.xavier_uniform_(self.weight_linear.weight)\n if self.conv_bias is not None:\n nn.init.constant_(self.conv_bias, 0.0)\n nn.init.constant_(self.weight_linaer.bias, 0.0)\n\n def forward(self, x, incremental_state=None, query=None, unfold=None):\n\n T, B, C = x.size()\n K, H = self.kernel_size, self.num_heads\n # R = C // H\n\n # during inference time, incremental BMM is faster\n if incremental_state is not None:\n unfold = (\n x.size(0) > 512 if unfold is None else unfold\n ) # use unfold mode as default for long sequence to save memory\n unfold = unfold or (incremental_state is not None)\n assert query is None\n\n if query is None:\n query = x\n if unfold:\n output = self._forward_unfolded(x, incremental_state, query)\n else:\n output = self._forward_expanded(x, incremental_state, query)\n\n if self.conv_bias is not None:\n output = output + self.conv_bias.view(1, 1, -1)\n\n return output\n\n # during training time, use CUDA kernel\n else:\n weight = self.weight_linear(x).view(T, B, H, K)\n if self.weight_softmax:\n weight = F.softmax(weight, dim=-1)\n if self.weight_dropout:\n weight = F.dropout(weight, self.weight_dropout, training=self.training)\n\n weight = weight.permute(1, 2, 3, 0).contiguous()\n self.filters = weight\n x = x.permute(1, 2, 0).contiguous()\n output = dynamicconvFunction.apply(x, weight, self.padding_l).permute(\n 2, 0, 1\n )\n if self.conv_bias is not None:\n output = output + self.conv_bias.view(1, 1, -1)\n return output\n\n def reorder_incremental_state(self, incremental_state, new_order):\n input_buffer = self._get_input_buffer(incremental_state)\n if input_buffer is not None:\n input_buffer = input_buffer.index_select(1, new_order)\n self._set_input_buffer(incremental_state, input_buffer)\n\n def _get_input_buffer(self, incremental_state):\n return utils.get_incremental_state(self, incremental_state, \"input_buffer\")\n\n def _set_input_buffer(self, incremental_state, new_buffer):\n return utils.set_incremental_state(\n self, incremental_state, \"input_buffer\", new_buffer\n )\n\n def _forward_unfolded(self, x, incremental_state, query):\n \"\"\"The conventional implementation of convolutions.\n Unfolding the input by having a window shifting to the right.\"\"\"\n T, B, C = x.size()\n K, H = self.kernel_size, self.num_heads\n R = C // H\n assert R * H == C == self.input_size\n\n weight = self.weight_linear(query).view(T * B * H, -1)\n\n # renorm_padding is only implemented in _forward_expanded\n assert not self.renorm_padding or incremental_state is not None\n\n if incremental_state is not None:\n input_buffer = self._get_input_buffer(incremental_state)\n if input_buffer is None:\n input_buffer = x.new()\n x_unfold = torch.cat([input_buffer, x.unsqueeze(3)], dim=3)\n if self.kernel_size > 1:\n self._set_input_buffer(\n incremental_state, x_unfold[:, :, :, -self.kernel_size + 1 :]\n )\n x_unfold = x_unfold.view(T * B * H, R, -1)\n else:\n padding_l = self.padding_l\n if K > T and padding_l == K - 1:\n weight = weight.narrow(1, K - T, T)\n K, padding_l = T, T - 1\n # unfold the input: T x B x C --> T' x B x C x K\n x_unfold = unfold1d(x, K, padding_l, 0)\n x_unfold = x_unfold.view(T * B * H, R, K)\n\n if self.weight_softmax and not self.renorm_padding:\n weight = F.softmax(weight, dim=1)\n weight = weight.narrow(1, 0, K)\n\n if incremental_state is not None:\n weight = weight[:, -x_unfold.size(2) :]\n K = weight.size(1)\n\n if self.weight_softmax and self.renorm_padding:\n weight = F.softmax(weight, dim=1)\n\n weight = F.dropout(\n weight, self.weight_dropout, training=self.training, inplace=False\n )\n\n output = torch.bmm(x_unfold, weight.unsqueeze(2)) # T*B*H x R x 1\n output = output.view(T, B, C)\n return output\n\n def _forward_expanded(self, x, incremental_stat, query):\n \"\"\"Turn the convolution filters into band matrices and do matrix multiplication.\n This is faster when the sequence is short, but less memory efficient.\n This is not used in the decoder during inference.\n \"\"\"\n T, B, C = x.size()\n K, H = self.kernel_size, self.num_heads\n R = C // H\n assert R * H == C == self.input_size\n weight = self.weight_linear(query).view(T * B * H, -1)\n\n if not self.renorm_padding:\n if self.weight_softmax:\n weight = F.softmax(weight, dim=1)\n weight = F.dropout(\n weight, self.weight_dropout, training=self.training, inplace=False\n )\n weight = weight.narrow(1, 0, K).contiguous()\n weight = weight.view(T, B * H, K).transpose(0, 1)\n\n x = x.view(T, B * H, R).transpose(0, 1)\n if self.weight_softmax and self.renorm_padding:\n # turn the convolution filters into band matrices\n weight_expanded = weight.new(B * H, T, T + K - 1).fill_(float(\"-inf\"))\n weight_expanded.as_strided(\n (B * H, T, K), (T * (T + K - 1), T + K, 1)\n ).copy_(weight)\n weight_expanded = weight_expanded.narrow(2, self.padding_l, T)\n # normalize the weight over valid positions like self-attention\n weight_expanded = F.softmax(weight_expanded, dim=2)\n weight_expanded = F.dropout(\n weight_expanded,\n self.weight_dropout,\n training=self.training,\n inplace=False,\n )\n else:\n P = self.padding_l\n # For efficieny, we cut the kernel size and reduce the padding when the kernel is larger than the length\n if K > T and P == K - 1:\n weight = weight.narrow(2, K - T, T)\n K, P = T, T - 1\n # turn the convolution filters into band matrices\n weight_expanded = weight.new_zeros(B * H, T, T + K - 1, requires_grad=False)\n weight_expanded.as_strided(\n (B * H, T, K), (T * (T + K - 1), T + K, 1)\n ).copy_(weight)\n weight_expanded = weight_expanded.narrow(2, P, T) # B*H x T x T\n output = torch.bmm(weight_expanded, x)\n output = output.transpose(0, 1).contiguous().view(T, B, C)\n return output\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/dynamicconv_layer/dynamiconv_cpu.cpp", "content": "#include <torch/torch.h>\n#include <vector>\n\nstd::vector<float*> dynamicconv_cpu_forward(\n float* input,\n float* filters,\n int padding_l);\n\nstd::vector<float*> dynamicconv_cpu_backward(\n float* gradOutput,\n int padding_l,\n float* input,\n float* filters);\n\nstd::vector<float*> dynamicconv_forward(\n float* input,\n float* filters,\n int padding_l) {\n\n return dynamicconv_cpu_forward(input, filters, padding_l);\n}\n\nstd::vector<float*> dynamicconv_backward(\n float* gradOutput,\n int padding_l,\n float* input,\n float* filters) {\n\n return dynamicconv_cpu_backward(gradOutput, padding_l, input, filters);\n}\n\nPYBIND11_MODULE(TORCH_EXTENSION_NAME, m) {\n m.def(\"forward\", &dynamicconv_forward, \"dynamicconv forward (CPU)\");\n m.def(\"backward\", &dynamicconv_backward, \"dynamicconv backward (CPU)\");\n}\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/dynamicconv_layer/setup.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom setuptools import setup\nfrom torch.utils.cpp_extension import CUDAExtension, BuildExtension\n\nsetup(\n name=\"dynamicconv_layer\",\n ext_modules=[\n CUDAExtension(\n name=\"dynamicconv_cuda\",\n sources=[\"dynamicconv_cuda.cpp\", \"dynamicconv_cuda_kernel.cu\",],\n ),\n ],\n cmdclass={\"build_ext\": BuildExtension},\n)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/gelu.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\"\"\"\nSee \"Gaussian Error Linear Units (GELUs)\" by Dan Hendrycks and Kevin Gimpel with\nthe corresponding GitHub repo: https://github.com/hendrycks/GELUs\n\"\"\"\n\nimport math\n\nimport torch\n\n\ndef gelu_accurate(x):\n if not hasattr(gelu_accurate, \"_a\"):\n gelu_accurate._a = math.sqrt(2 / math.pi)\n return (\n 0.5 * x * (1 + torch.tanh(gelu_accurate._a * (x + 0.044715 * torch.pow(x, 3))))\n )\n\n\ndef gelu(x: torch.Tensor) -> torch.Tensor:\n if hasattr(torch.nn.functional, \"gelu\"):\n return torch.nn.functional.gelu(x.float()).type_as(x)\n else:\n return x * 0.5 * (1.0 + torch.erf(x / math.sqrt(2.0)))\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/grad_multiply.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\n\n\nclass GradMultiply(torch.autograd.Function):\n @staticmethod\n def forward(ctx, x, scale):\n ctx.scale = scale\n res = x.new(x)\n return res\n\n @staticmethod\n def backward(ctx, grad):\n return grad * ctx.scale, None\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/highway.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\n\nfrom torch import nn\n\n\nclass Highway(torch.nn.Module):\n \"\"\"\n A `Highway layer <https://arxiv.org/abs/1505.00387>`_.\n Adopted from the AllenNLP implementation.\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, input_dim: int, num_layers: int = 1):\n super(Highway, self).__init__()\n self.input_dim = input_dim\n self.layers = nn.ModuleList(\n [nn.Linear(input_dim, input_dim * 2) for _ in range(num_layers)]\n )\n self.activation = nn.ReLU()\n\n self.reset_parameters()\n\n def reset_parameters(self):\n for layer in self.layers:\n # As per comment in AllenNLP:\n # We should bias the highway layer to just carry its input forward. We do that by\n # setting the bias on `B(x)` to be positive, because that means `g` will be biased to\n # be high, so we will carry the input forward. The bias on `B(x)` is the second half\n # of the bias vector in each Linear layer.\n nn.init.constant_(layer.bias[self.input_dim :], 1)\n\n nn.init.constant_(layer.bias[: self.input_dim], 0)\n nn.init.xavier_normal_(layer.weight)\n\n def forward(self, x: torch.Tensor):\n for layer in self.layers:\n projection = layer(x)\n proj_x, gate = projection.chunk(2, dim=-1)\n proj_x = self.activation(proj_x)\n gate = torch.sigmoid(gate)\n x = gate * x + (gate.new_tensor([1]) - gate) * proj_x\n return x\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/layer_norm.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\n\n\ndef LayerNorm(normalized_shape, eps=1e-5, elementwise_affine=True, export=False):\n if not export and torch.cuda.is_available():\n try:\n from apex.normalization import FusedLayerNorm\n\n return FusedLayerNorm(normalized_shape, eps, elementwise_affine)\n except ImportError:\n pass\n return torch.nn.LayerNorm(normalized_shape, eps, elementwise_affine)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/learned_positional_embedding.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch.nn as nn\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\n\n\nclass LearnedPositionalEmbedding(nn.Embedding):\n \"\"\"\n This module learns positional embeddings up to a fixed maximum size.\n Padding ids are ignored by either offsetting based on padding_idx\n or by setting padding_idx to None and ensuring that the appropriate\n position ids are passed to the forward function.\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self, num_embeddings: int, embedding_dim: int, padding_idx: int,\n ):\n super().__init__(num_embeddings, embedding_dim, padding_idx)\n self.onnx_trace = False\n\n def forward(self, input, incremental_state=None, positions=None):\n \"\"\"Input is expected to be of size [bsz x seqlen].\"\"\"\n assert (positions is None) or (\n self.padding_idx is None\n ), \"If positions is pre-computed then padding_idx should not be set.\"\n\n if positions is None:\n if incremental_state is not None:\n # positions is the same for every token when decoding a single step\n # Without the int() cast, it doesn't work in some cases when exporting to ONNX\n positions = input.data.new(1, 1).fill_(\n int(self.padding_idx + input.size(1))\n )\n else:\n positions = utils.make_positions(\n input, self.padding_idx, onnx_trace=self.onnx_trace,\n )\n return super().forward(positions)\n\n def max_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Maximum number of supported positions.\"\"\"\n if self.padding_idx is not None:\n return self.num_embeddings - self.padding_idx - 1\n else:\n return self.num_embeddings\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/lightconv_layer/__init__.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom .lightconv_layer import LightconvLayer # noqa\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/lightconv_layer/cuda_function_gen.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\n\ndef gen_forward():\n\n kernels = [3, 5, 7, 15, 31, 63, 127, 255]\n seqs = [32 * x for x in [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16]]\n\n head = \"\"\"\n/**\n * Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n *\n * This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n * LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n */\n\n#include \"lightconv_cuda.cuh\"\n\nstd::vector<at::Tensor> lightconv_cuda_forward(at::Tensor input, at::Tensor filters, int padding_l) {\n\n at::DeviceGuard g(input.device());\n const auto minibatch = input.size(0);\n const auto numFeatures = input.size(1);\n const auto sequenceLength = input.size(2);\n\n const auto numHeads = filters.size(0);\n const auto filterSize = filters.size(1);\n\n const auto numFiltersInBlock = numFeatures / numHeads;\n\n const dim3 blocks(minibatch, numFeatures);\n\n auto output = at::zeros_like(input);\n auto stream = at::cuda::getCurrentCUDAStream();\n\"\"\"\n\n sequence_if = \"\"\"\n if (sequenceLength <= {seq}) {{\n switch(filterSize) {{\n\"\"\"\n\n case_k = \"\"\"\n case {k}:\n\"\"\"\n\n main_block = \"\"\"\n if (padding_l == {pad}) {{\n AT_DISPATCH_FLOATING_TYPES_AND_HALF(input.scalar_type(), \"lightconv_forward\", ([&] {{\n lightconv_forward_kernel<{k}, {b_size}, {pad}, scalar_t>\n <<<blocks, {b_size}, 0, stream>>>(\n input.data<scalar_t>(),\n filters.data<scalar_t>(),\n minibatch,\n sequenceLength,\n numFeatures,\n numFiltersInBlock,\n output.data<scalar_t>());\n }}));\n }} else\n\"\"\"\n\n bad_padding = \"\"\"\n {\n std::cout << \"WARNING: Unsupported padding size - skipping forward pass\" << std::endl;\n }\n break;\n\"\"\"\n\n bad_filter = \"\"\"\n default:\n std::cout << \"WARNING: Unsupported filter length passed - skipping forward pass\" << std::endl;\n }\n\"\"\"\n\n con_else = \"\"\"\n } else\n\"\"\"\n\n final_else = \"\"\"\n {\n switch(filterSize) {\n\"\"\"\n\n final_return = \"\"\"\n }\n\n return {output};\n}\n\"\"\"\n\n with open(\"lightconv_cuda_forward.cu\", \"w\") as forward:\n forward.write(head)\n for seq in seqs:\n forward.write(sequence_if.format(seq=seq))\n for k in kernels:\n forward.write(case_k.format(k=k))\n for pad in [k // 2, k - 1]:\n forward.write(main_block.format(k=k, b_size=seq, pad=pad))\n forward.write(bad_padding)\n forward.write(bad_filter)\n forward.write(con_else)\n\n forward.write(final_else)\n for k in kernels:\n forward.write(case_k.format(k=k))\n for pad in [k // 2, k - 1]:\n forward.write(main_block.format(k=k, b_size=seq, pad=pad))\n forward.write(bad_padding)\n forward.write(bad_filter)\n forward.write(final_return)\n\n\ndef gen_backward():\n\n head = \"\"\"\n/**\n * Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n *\n * This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n * LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n */\n\n#include \"lightconv_cuda.cuh\"\n\nstd::vector<at::Tensor> lightconv_cuda_backward(\n at::Tensor gradOutput,\n int padding_l,\n at::Tensor input,\n at::Tensor filters) {\n\n // gradWrtInput\n const int minibatch = input.size(0);\n const int numFeatures = input.size(1);\n const int sequenceLength = input.size(2);\n\n const int numHeads = filters.size(0);\n const int filterSize = filters.size(1);\n\n const dim3 gradBlocks(minibatch, numFeatures);\n const dim3 weightGradFirstpassShortBlocks(minibatch, numHeads);\n const dim3 weightGradSecondpassBlocks(numHeads, filterSize);\n\n const int numFiltersInBlock = numFeatures / numHeads;\n\n auto gradInput = at::zeros_like(input);\n auto gradFilters = at::zeros_like(filters);\n\n at::DeviceGuard g(input.device());\n auto stream = at::cuda::getCurrentCUDAStream();\n\n switch(filterSize) {\n\"\"\"\n\n sequence_if = \"\"\"\n if (sequenceLength <= {seq}) {{\n\"\"\"\n\n case_k = \"\"\"\n case {k}:\n\"\"\"\n\n main_block = \"\"\"\n if (padding_l == {p}) {{\n AT_DISPATCH_FLOATING_TYPES_AND_HALF(input.scalar_type(), \"lightconv_backward\", ([&] {{\n lightconv_grad_wrt_input_kernel<{k}, {b_size}, {p}, scalar_t>\n <<<gradBlocks, {b_size}, 0, stream>>>(\n gradOutput.data<scalar_t>(),\n filters.data<scalar_t>(),\n minibatch,\n sequenceLength,\n numFeatures,\n numFiltersInBlock,\n gradInput.data<scalar_t>());\n\n\"\"\"\n\n weight_grad_short = \"\"\"\n at::Tensor tempSumGradFilters = at::zeros({{minibatch, numHeads, filterSize}}, input.options().dtype(at::kFloat));\n lightconv_grad_wrt_weights_firstpass_short_kernel<{k}, {b_size}, {p}, scalar_t>\n <<<weightGradFirstpassShortBlocks, {b_size}, 0, stream>>>(\n input.data<scalar_t>(),\n gradOutput.data<scalar_t>(),\n minibatch,\n sequenceLength,\n numFeatures,\n numFiltersInBlock,\n numHeads,\n tempSumGradFilters.data<float>()\n );\n\n lightconv_grad_wrt_weights_secondpass_short_kernel<{k}, {b_size}, scalar_t>\n <<<weightGradSecondpassBlocks, {b_size}, 0, stream>>>(\n tempSumGradFilters.data<float>(),\n minibatch,\n numFiltersInBlock,\n gradFilters.data<scalar_t>()\n );\n }}));\n }} else\n\"\"\"\n\n weight_grad = \"\"\"\n at::Tensor tempSumGradFilters = at::zeros({{minibatch, numFeatures, filterSize}}, input.options().dtype(at::kFloat));\n lightconv_grad_wrt_weights_firstpass_kernel<{k}, {b_size}, {p}, scalar_t>\n <<<gradBlocks, {b_size}, 0, stream>>>(\n input.data<scalar_t>(),\n gradOutput.data<scalar_t>(),\n minibatch,\n sequenceLength,\n numFeatures,\n numFiltersInBlock,\n tempSumGradFilters.data<float>()\n );\n\n lightconv_grad_wrt_weights_secondpass_kernel<{k}, {b_size}, scalar_t>\n <<<weightGradSecondpassBlocks, {b_size}, 0, stream>>>(\n tempSumGradFilters.data<float>(),\n minibatch,\n numFiltersInBlock,\n gradFilters.data<scalar_t>()\n );\n }}));\n }} else\n\"\"\"\n\n bad_padding = \"\"\"\n {\n std::cout << \"WARNING: Unsupported padding size - skipping backward pass\" << std::endl;\n }\n\"\"\"\n\n breakout = \"\"\"\n break;\n\"\"\"\n\n bad_filter = \"\"\"\n default:\n std::cout << \"WARNING: Unsupported filter length passed - skipping backward pass\" << std::endl;\n\"\"\"\n\n con_else = \"\"\"\n } else\n\"\"\"\n\n final_else = \"\"\"\n {\n switch(filterSize) {\n\"\"\"\n\n last_return = \"\"\"\n }\n return {gradInput, gradFilters};\n}\n\"\"\"\n\n kernels = [3, 5, 7, 15, 31, 63, 127, 255]\n seqs = [32 * x for x in [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16]]\n thresh = [32, 32, 64, 128, 256, -1, -1, -1]\n max_mem = [-1, -1, -1, -1, -1, 192, 96, 64]\n\n with open(\"lightconv_cuda_backward.cu\", \"w\") as backward:\n backward.write(head)\n for (k, t, mem) in zip(kernels, thresh, max_mem):\n backward.write(case_k.format(k=k))\n for seq in seqs:\n if (t == -1 or seq <= t) and (mem == -1 or seq < mem):\n backward.write(sequence_if.format(seq=seq))\n for p in [k // 2, k - 1]:\n backward.write(main_block.format(k=k, b_size=seq, p=p))\n backward.write(weight_grad_short.format(k=k, b_size=seq, p=p))\n backward.write(bad_padding)\n else:\n for p in [k // 2, k - 1]:\n backward.write(main_block.format(k=k, b_size=32, p=p))\n backward.write(weight_grad.format(k=k, b_size=32, p=p))\n backward.write(bad_padding)\n backward.write(breakout)\n break\n backward.write(con_else)\n backward.write(bad_filter)\n backward.write(last_return)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n gen_forward()\n gen_backward()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/lightconv_layer/lightconv_cuda.cpp", "content": "/**\n * Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n *\n * This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n * LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n */\n\n#include <torch/extension.h>\n#include <vector>\n\nstd::vector<at::Tensor> lightconv_cuda_forward(\n at::Tensor input,\n at::Tensor filters,\n int padding_l);\n\nstd::vector<at::Tensor> lightconv_cuda_backward(\n at::Tensor gradOutput,\n int padding_l,\n at::Tensor input,\n at::Tensor filters);\n\n\n#define CHECK_CUDA(x) AT_ASSERTM(x.type().is_cuda(), #x \" must be a CUDA tensor\")\n#define CHECK_CONTIGUOUS(x) AT_ASSERTM(x.is_contiguous(), #x \" must be contiguous\")\n#define CHECK_INPUT(x) CHECK_CUDA(x); CHECK_CONTIGUOUS(x)\n\nstd::vector<at::Tensor> lightconv_forward(\n at::Tensor input,\n at::Tensor filters,\n int padding_l) {\n\n CHECK_INPUT(input);\n CHECK_INPUT(filters);\n\n return lightconv_cuda_forward(input, filters, padding_l);\n}\n\nstd::vector<at::Tensor> lightconv_backward(\n at::Tensor gradOutput,\n int padding_l,\n at::Tensor input,\n at::Tensor filters) {\n\n CHECK_INPUT(gradOutput);\n CHECK_INPUT(input);\n CHECK_INPUT(filters);\n\n return lightconv_cuda_backward(gradOutput, padding_l, input, filters);\n}\n\nPYBIND11_MODULE(TORCH_EXTENSION_NAME, m) {\n m.def(\"forward\", &lightconv_forward, \"lighconv forward (CUDA)\");\n m.def(\"backward\", &lightconv_backward, \"lighconv backward (CUDA)\");\n}\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/lightconv_layer/lightconv_cuda.cuh", "content": "/**\n * Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n * \n * This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n * LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n */\n\n#include <ATen/ATen.h>\n#include <c10/cuda/CUDAStream.h>\n\n#include <cuda.h>\n#include <cuda_runtime.h>\n\n#include <algorithm>\n#include <functional>\n#include <iostream>\n#include <stdexcept>\n#include <utility>\n#include <vector>\n\n#include <stdlib.h>\n#include <assert.h>\n\n#define SHFL_MASK 0xffffffff\n\ntemplate<int FS, int SB, int padding_l, typename scalar_t>\n__global__\nvoid lightconv_forward_kernel(const scalar_t* input,\n const scalar_t* filters,\n int minibatch, int sequenceLength,\n int numFeatures, int numFiltersInBlock,\n scalar_t* output);\n\ntemplate<int FS, int SB, int padding_l, typename scalar_t>\n__global__\nvoid lightconv_grad_wrt_input_kernel(\n const scalar_t* input, \n const scalar_t* filters,\n int minibatch,\n int sequenceLength,\n int numFeatures,\n int numFiltersInBlock,\n scalar_t* output);\n\ntemplate<int FS, int SB, int padding_l, typename scalar_t>\n__global__\nvoid lightconv_grad_wrt_weights_firstpass_short_kernel(\n const scalar_t* input,\n const scalar_t* gradInput,\n int minibatch,\n int sequenceLength,\n int numFeatures,\n int numFiltersInBlock,\n int numHeads,\n float* output);\n\ntemplate<int FS, int SB, typename scalar_t>\n__global__\nvoid lightconv_grad_wrt_weights_secondpass_short_kernel(\n const float* input,\n const int minibatch, \n const int numFiltersInBlock,\n scalar_t* output);\n\ntemplate<int FS, int SB, int padding_l, typename scalar_t>\n__global__\nvoid lightconv_grad_wrt_weights_firstpass_kernel(\n const scalar_t* input,\n const scalar_t* gradInput,\n int minibatch,\n int sequenceLength,\n int numFeatures,\n int numFiltersInBlock,\n float* output);\n\ntemplate<int FS, int SB, typename scalar_t>\n__global__\nvoid lightconv_grad_wrt_weights_secondpass_kernel(\n const float* input,\n const int minibatch, \n const int numFiltersInBlock,\n scalar_t* output);\n\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/lightconv_layer/lightconv_cuda_kernel.cu", "content": "/**\n * Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n * \n * This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n * LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n */\n\n#include \"lightconv_cuda.cuh\"\n#include \"lightconv_cuda_forward.cu\"\n#include \"lightconv_cuda_backward.cu\"\n#include \"../cuda_utils.cu\"\n\ntemplate<int FS, int SB, int padding_l, typename scalar_t>\n__global__\nvoid lightconv_forward_kernel(const scalar_t* input,\n const scalar_t* filters,\n int minibatch, int sequenceLength,\n int numFeatures, int numFiltersInBlock,\n scalar_t* output) {\n\n const int tid = threadIdx.x;\n const int batchIdx = blockIdx.x;\n const int featureIdx = blockIdx.y;\n const int filterIdx = featureIdx / numFiltersInBlock;\n\n const int IOOffset = numFeatures * sequenceLength * batchIdx + featureIdx * sequenceLength;\n const scalar_t* inputFeature = &input[IOOffset];\n scalar_t* outputFeature = &output[IOOffset];\n const scalar_t* inputFilter = &filters[filterIdx * FS];\n\n assert(blockDim.x == SB);\n\n scalar_t filter[FS];\n #pragma unroll\n for (int i = 0; i < FS; ++i) {\n filter[i] = inputFilter[i];\n }\n\n __shared__ scalar_t temp[SB + FS];\n zeroSharedMem<FS, SB, padding_l>(temp);\n\n const int numIterations = divUp<int, int>(sequenceLength, SB);\n\n for (int i = 0; i < numIterations; ++i) {\n // Read input into shared memory\n const int inputOffset = i * SB;\n\n load_input_to_shared<FS, SB, padding_l>(inputFeature, inputOffset, sequenceLength,\n i, numIterations, (numIterations == 1), temp);\n\n __syncthreads();\n\n scalar_t out = 0;\n #pragma unroll\n for (int j = 0; j < FS; ++j) {\n out += filter[j] * temp[tid + j];\n }\n\n // Write output\n const int outputOffset = inputOffset;\n if ((outputOffset + tid) < sequenceLength) {\n outputFeature[outputOffset + tid] = out;\n }\n\n __syncthreads();\n }\n}\n\ntemplate<int FS, int SB, int padding_l, typename scalar_t>\n__global__\nvoid lightconv_grad_wrt_input_kernel(\n const scalar_t* input,\n const scalar_t* filters,\n int minibatch,\n int sequenceLength,\n int numFeatures,\n int numFiltersInBlock,\n scalar_t* output) {\n\n // input grad kernel is similar to forward kernel\n const int tid = threadIdx.x;\n const int batchIdx = blockIdx.x;\n const int featureIdx = blockIdx.y;\n const int filterIdx = featureIdx / numFiltersInBlock;\n\n const int IOOffset = numFeatures * sequenceLength * batchIdx + featureIdx * sequenceLength;\n const scalar_t* inputFeature = &input[IOOffset];\n scalar_t* outputFeature = &output[IOOffset];\n const scalar_t* inputFilter = &filters[filterIdx * FS];\n\n assert(blockDim.x == SB);\n\n scalar_t filter[FS];\n\n // The only change is loading the filter in reverse\n #pragma unroll\n for (int i = 0; i < FS; ++i) {\n filter[i] = inputFilter[FS - i - 1];\n }\n\n __shared__ scalar_t temp[SB + FS];\n const int padding = FS - padding_l - 1;\n zeroSharedMem<FS, SB, padding>(temp);\n\n __syncthreads();\n\n const int numIterations = divUp<int, int>(sequenceLength, SB);\n\n for (int i = 0; i < numIterations; ++i) {\n // Read input into shared memory\n const int inputOffset = i * SB;\n\n load_input_to_shared<FS, SB, padding>(inputFeature, inputOffset, sequenceLength,\n i, numIterations, false, temp);\n\n __syncthreads();\n\n scalar_t out = 0;\n #pragma unroll\n for (int j = 0; j < FS; ++j) {\n out += filter[j] * temp[tid + j];\n }\n\n // Write output\n const int outputOffset = inputOffset;\n if ((outputOffset + tid) < sequenceLength) {\n outputFeature[outputOffset + tid] = out;\n }\n\n __syncthreads();\n }\n}\n\n// This is by far the most expensive kernel in terms of time taken.\n// Can be 16x slower than the forward or grad_wrt_input when filter size is 31\ntemplate<int FS, int SB, int padding_l, typename scalar_t>\n__global__\nvoid lightconv_grad_wrt_weights_firstpass_short_kernel(\n const scalar_t* input,\n const scalar_t* gradInput,\n int minibatch,\n int sequenceLength,\n int numFeatures,\n int numFiltersInBlock,\n int numHeads,\n float* output) {\n\n const int tid = threadIdx.x;\n const int batchIdx = blockIdx.x;\n const int filterIdx = blockIdx.y;\n\n const int numIterations = divUp<int, int>(sequenceLength, SB);\n\n float* tempOutputGradWeight = &output[filterIdx * FS * minibatch];\n\n assert(blockDim.x == SB);\n\n __shared__ scalar_t tempInput[SB + FS];\n __shared__ scalar_t tempGradInput[SB + FS];\n\n // local weight accumulation\n float accumWeights[FS];\n\n // Initialize memory\n for (int i = 0; i < FS; ++i) {\n accumWeights[i] = float(0.0);\n }\n\n\n // loop over each sequence within filterblock\n for (int idxInFilterBlock = 0; idxInFilterBlock < numFiltersInBlock; ++idxInFilterBlock) {\n\n const int featureOffset = batchIdx * numFeatures * sequenceLength + (filterIdx * numFiltersInBlock + idxInFilterBlock) * sequenceLength;\n const scalar_t* inputFeature = &input[featureOffset];\n const scalar_t* gradInputFeature = &gradInput[featureOffset];\n\n zeroSharedMem<FS, SB, padding_l>(tempInput);\n zeroSharedMem<FS, SB, (FS/2)>(tempGradInput);\n __syncthreads();\n\n for (int i = 0; i < numIterations; ++i) {\n\n const int inputOffset = i * SB;\n\n load_input_to_shared<FS, SB, padding_l>(inputFeature, inputOffset, sequenceLength,\n i, numIterations, false, tempInput);\n load_input_to_shared<FS, SB, (FS/2)>(gradInputFeature, inputOffset, sequenceLength,\n i, numIterations, false, tempGradInput);\n\n __syncthreads();\n\n const int gradIndex = (FS/2) + tid;\n scalar_t tempGrad = tempGradInput[gradIndex];\n\n #pragma unroll\n for (int j = 0; j < FS; j++) {\n const int inputIndex = tid + j;\n accumWeights[j] += tempInput[inputIndex] * tempGrad;\n }\n\n __syncthreads();\n\n }\n\n }\n\n // Row-major sum\n for (int filterWeightIdx = 0; filterWeightIdx < FS; ++filterWeightIdx) {\n\n float temp;\n if (tid < sequenceLength) {\n temp = accumWeights[filterWeightIdx];\n } else {\n temp = float(0.0);\n }\n\n const int outputOffset = filterWeightIdx * minibatch + batchIdx;\n\n temp = blockReduce(temp);\n\n if (tid == 0) {\n tempOutputGradWeight[outputOffset] = temp;\n }\n }\n}\n\ntemplate<int FS, int SB, typename scalar_t>\n__global__\nvoid lightconv_grad_wrt_weights_secondpass_short_kernel(\n const float* input,\n const int minibatch,\n const int numFiltersInBlock,\n scalar_t* output) {\n\n assert(blockDim.x == SB);\n\n const int tid = threadIdx.x;\n\n const int filterIdx = blockIdx.x;\n const int filterWeightIdx = blockIdx.y;\n\n const int inputOffset = filterIdx * FS * minibatch +\n filterWeightIdx * minibatch;\n const float* tempInput = &input[inputOffset];\n\n // read into shared memory for reduction\n int readIndex = tid;\n\n float sum = 0.0;\n while (readIndex < minibatch) {\n sum += tempInput[readIndex];\n readIndex += SB;\n }\n\n float temp = blockReduce(sum);\n\n if (tid == 0) {\n output[blockIdx.x * FS + blockIdx.y] = temp;\n }\n}\n\n// This is by far the most expensive kernel in terms of time taken.\n// Can be 16x slower than the forward or grad_wrt_input when filter size is 31\ntemplate<int FS, int SB, int padding_l, typename scalar_t>\n__global__\nvoid lightconv_grad_wrt_weights_firstpass_kernel(\n const scalar_t* input,\n const scalar_t* gradInput,\n int minibatch,\n int sequenceLength,\n int numFeatures,\n int numFiltersInBlock,\n float* output) {\n\n assert(blockDim.x == SB);\n\n const int tid = threadIdx.x;\n const int batchIdx = blockIdx.x;\n const int featureIdx = blockIdx.y;\n const int filterIdx = featureIdx / numFiltersInBlock;\n const int idxInFilterBlock = featureIdx % numFiltersInBlock;\n\n const int numIterations = divUp<int, int>(sequenceLength, SB);\n\n float temp;\n\n __shared__ scalar_t tempInput[SB + FS];\n __shared__ scalar_t tempGradInput[SB + FS];\n zeroSharedMem<FS, SB, padding_l>(tempInput);\n zeroSharedMem<FS, SB, (FS/2)>(tempGradInput);\n __syncthreads();\n\n float accumWeights[FS];\n\n for (int i = 0; i < FS; ++i) {\n accumWeights[i] = float(0.0);\n }\n\n const int IOOffset = batchIdx * numFeatures * sequenceLength + featureIdx * sequenceLength;\n const scalar_t* inputFeature = &input[IOOffset];\n const scalar_t* gradInputFeature = &gradInput[IOOffset];\n float* tempOutputGradWeight = &output[filterIdx * FS * minibatch * numFiltersInBlock];\n\n for (int i = 0; i < numIterations; ++i) {\n const int inputOffset = i * SB;\n\n load_input_to_shared<FS, SB, padding_l>(inputFeature, inputOffset, sequenceLength,\n i, numIterations, false, tempInput);\n load_input_to_shared<FS, SB, (FS/2)>(gradInputFeature, inputOffset, sequenceLength,\n i, numIterations, false, tempGradInput);\n __syncthreads();\n\n #pragma unroll\n for (int j = 0; j < FS; ++j) {\n accumWeights[j] += tempInput[tid + j] * tempGradInput[tid + (FS/2)];\n }\n\n __syncthreads();\n }\n\n // Row-major sum\n for (int filterWeightIdx = 0; filterWeightIdx < FS; ++filterWeightIdx) {\n\n // Write to shared memory before reduction\n if (tid < sequenceLength) {\n temp = accumWeights[filterWeightIdx];\n } else {\n temp = float(0.0);\n }\n\n temp = blockReduce(temp);\n\n const int outputOffset = filterWeightIdx * minibatch * numFiltersInBlock +\n batchIdx * numFiltersInBlock +\n idxInFilterBlock;\n\n if (tid == 0) {\n tempOutputGradWeight[outputOffset] = temp;\n }\n }\n}\n\ntemplate<int FS, int SB, typename scalar_t>\n__global__\nvoid lightconv_grad_wrt_weights_secondpass_kernel(\n const float* input,\n const int minibatch,\n const int numFiltersInBlock,\n scalar_t* output) {\n\n assert(blockDim.x == SB);\n const int tid = threadIdx.x;\n\n // What is the id within a minibatch\n const int filterIdx = blockIdx.x;\n const int filterWeightIdx = blockIdx.y;\n\n const int inputOffset = filterIdx * FS * minibatch * numFiltersInBlock +\n filterWeightIdx * minibatch * numFiltersInBlock;\n const float* tempInput = &input[inputOffset];\n\n int readIndex = tid;\n\n float sum = float(0.0);\n while (readIndex < (minibatch * numFiltersInBlock)) {\n sum += tempInput[readIndex];\n readIndex += SB;\n }\n\n float temp = blockReduce(sum);\n\n if (tid == 0) {\n output[blockIdx.x * FS + blockIdx.y] = temp;\n }\n}\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/lightconv_layer/lightconv_layer.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\nfrom torch.autograd import Function\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nimport lightconv_cuda\nfrom fairseq import utils\n\n\nclass lightconvFunction(Function):\n @staticmethod\n def forward(ctx, x, weights, padding_l):\n ctx.padding_l = padding_l\n outputs = lightconv_cuda.forward(x, weights, padding_l)\n variables = [x, weights]\n ctx.save_for_backward(*variables)\n return outputs[0]\n\n @staticmethod\n def backward(ctx, grad_output):\n outputs = lightconv_cuda.backward(\n grad_output.contiguous(), ctx.padding_l, *ctx.saved_variables\n )\n grad_input, grad_weights = outputs\n return grad_input, grad_weights, None\n\n\nclass LightconvLayer(nn.Module):\n def __init__(\n self,\n input_size,\n kernel_size=1,\n padding_l=None,\n weight_softmax=False,\n num_heads=1,\n weight_dropout=0.0,\n bias=False,\n ):\n super(LightconvLayer, self).__init__()\n self.input_size = input_size\n self.kernel_size = kernel_size\n self.padding_l = padding_l\n self.num_heads = num_heads\n self.weight_softmax = weight_softmax\n self.weight_dropout = weight_dropout\n\n self.weight = nn.Parameter(torch.Tensor(num_heads, kernel_size))\n if bias:\n self.bias = nn.Parameter(torch.Tensor(input_size))\n else:\n self.bias = None\n self.reset_parameters()\n\n def reset_parameters(self):\n nn.init.xavier_uniform_(self.weight)\n if self.bias is not None:\n nn.init.constant_(self.bias, 0.0)\n\n def forward(self, x, incremental_state=None):\n\n # during inference time, incremental BMM is faster\n if incremental_state is not None:\n T, B, C = x.size()\n K, H = self.kernel_size, self.num_heads\n R = C // H\n input_buffer = self._get_input_buffer(incremental_state)\n if input_buffer is None:\n input_buffer = x.new()\n x_unfold = torch.cat([input_buffer, x.unsqueeze(3)], dim=3)\n if self.kernel_size > 1:\n self._set_input_buffer(\n incremental_state, x_unfold[:, :, :, -self.kernel_size + 1 :]\n )\n x_unfold = x_unfold.view(T * B * H, R, -1)\n\n weight = self.weight\n if self.weight_softmax:\n weight = F.softmax(weight.float(), dim=1).type_as(weight)\n\n weight = weight[:, -x_unfold.size(2) :]\n\n K = weight.size(1)\n\n weight = (\n weight.view(1, H, K)\n .expand(T * B, H, K)\n .contiguous()\n .view(T * B * H, K, 1)\n )\n\n weight = F.dropout(weight, self.weight_dropout, training=self.training)\n output = torch.bmm(x_unfold, weight) # T*B*H x R x 1\n output = output.view(T, B, C)\n return output\n\n # during training time, use CUDA kernel\n else:\n x = x.permute(1, 2, 0).contiguous()\n weight = self.weight\n if self.weight_softmax:\n weight = F.softmax(self.weight, -1)\n if self.weight_dropout:\n weight = F.dropout(weight, self.weight_dropout, training=self.training)\n return lightconvFunction.apply(x, weight, self.padding_l).permute(2, 0, 1)\n\n def reorder_incremental_state(self, incremental_state, new_order):\n input_buffer = self._get_input_buffer(incremental_state)\n if input_buffer is not None:\n input_buffer = input_buffer.index_select(1, new_order)\n self._set_input_buffer(incremental_state, input_buffer)\n\n def _get_input_buffer(self, incremental_state):\n return utils.get_incremental_state(self, incremental_state, \"input_buffer\")\n\n def _set_input_buffer(self, incremental_state, new_buffer):\n return utils.set_incremental_state(\n self, incremental_state, \"input_buffer\", new_buffer\n )\n\n def half(self):\n print(\"HALF\")\n return self._apply(lambda t: t.half() if t.is_floating_point() else t)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/lightconv_layer/setup.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom setuptools import setup\nfrom torch.utils.cpp_extension import CUDAExtension, BuildExtension\n\nsetup(\n name=\"lightconv_layer\",\n ext_modules=[\n CUDAExtension(\n \"lightconv_cuda\", [\"lightconv_cuda.cpp\", \"lightconv_cuda_kernel.cu\",]\n ),\n ],\n cmdclass={\"build_ext\": BuildExtension},\n)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/lightweight_convolution.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn as nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\nfrom fairseq.modules.unfold import unfold1d\n\n\ndef LightweightConv(\n input_size,\n kernel_size=1,\n padding_l=None,\n num_heads=1,\n weight_dropout=0.0,\n weight_softmax=False,\n bias=False,\n):\n if torch.cuda.is_available():\n try:\n from fairseq.modules.lightconv_layer import LightconvLayer\n\n return LightconvLayer(\n input_size,\n kernel_size=kernel_size,\n padding_l=padding_l,\n num_heads=num_heads,\n weight_dropout=weight_dropout,\n weight_softmax=weight_softmax,\n bias=bias,\n )\n except ImportError as e:\n print(e)\n return LightweightConv1dTBC(\n input_size,\n kernel_size=kernel_size,\n padding_l=padding_l,\n num_heads=num_heads,\n weight_dropout=weight_dropout,\n weight_softmax=weight_softmax,\n bias=bias,\n )\n\n\nclass LightweightConv1d(nn.Module):\n \"\"\"Lightweight Convolution assuming the input is BxCxT\n This is just an example that explains LightConv clearer than the TBC version.\n We don't use this module in the model.\n\n Args:\n input_size: # of channels of the input and output\n kernel_size: convolution channels\n padding: padding\n num_heads: number of heads used. The weight is of shape\n `(num_heads, 1, kernel_size)`\n weight_softmax: normalize the weight with softmax before the convolution\n\n Shape:\n Input: BxCxT, i.e. (batch_size, input_size, timesteps)\n Output: BxCxT, i.e. (batch_size, input_size, timesteps)\n\n Attributes:\n weight: the learnable weights of the module of shape\n `(num_heads, 1, kernel_size)`\n bias: the learnable bias of the module of shape `(input_size)`\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self,\n input_size,\n kernel_size=1,\n padding=0,\n num_heads=1,\n weight_softmax=False,\n bias=False,\n weight_dropout=0.0,\n ):\n super().__init__()\n self.input_size = input_size\n self.kernel_size = kernel_size\n self.num_heads = num_heads\n self.padding = padding\n self.weight_softmax = weight_softmax\n self.weight = nn.Parameter(torch.Tensor(num_heads, 1, kernel_size))\n\n if bias:\n self.bias = nn.Parameter(torch.Tensor(input_size))\n else:\n self.bias = None\n self.weight_dropout = weight_dropout\n self.reset_parameters()\n\n def reset_parameters(self):\n nn.init.xavier_uniform_(self.weight)\n if self.bias is not None:\n nn.init.constant_(self.bias, 0.0)\n\n def forward(self, input):\n \"\"\"\n input size: B x C x T\n output size: B x C x T\n \"\"\"\n B, C, T = input.size()\n H = self.num_heads\n\n weight = self.weight\n if self.weight_softmax:\n weight = F.softmax(weight, dim=-1)\n\n weight = F.dropout(weight, self.weight_dropout, training=self.training)\n # Merge every C/H entries into the batch dimension (C = self.input_size)\n # B x C x T -> (B * C/H) x H x T\n # One can also expand the weight to C x 1 x K by a factor of C/H\n # and do not reshape the input instead, which is slow though\n input = input.view(-1, H, T)\n output = F.conv1d(input, weight, padding=self.padding, groups=self.num_heads)\n output = output.view(B, C, T)\n if self.bias is not None:\n output = output + self.bias.view(1, -1, 1)\n\n return output\n\n\nclass LightweightConv1dTBC(nn.Module):\n \"\"\"Lightweight Convolution assuming the input is TxBxC\n Args:\n input_size: # of channels of the input\n kernel_size: convolution channels\n padding_l: padding to the left when using \"same\" padding\n num_heads: number of heads used. The weight is of shape (num_heads, 1, kernel_size)\n weight_dropout: the drop rate of the DropConnect to drop the weight\n weight_softmax: normalize the weight with softmax before the convolution\n bias: use bias\n\n Shape:\n Input: TxBxC, i.e. (timesteps, batch_size, input_size)\n Output: TxBxC, i.e. (timesteps, batch_size, input_size)\n\n Attributes:\n weight: the learnable weights of the module of shape\n `(num_heads, 1, kernel_size)`\n bias: the learnable bias of the module of shape `(input_size)`\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self,\n input_size,\n kernel_size=1,\n padding_l=None,\n num_heads=1,\n weight_dropout=0.0,\n weight_softmax=False,\n bias=False,\n ):\n super().__init__()\n self.input_size = input_size\n self.kernel_size = kernel_size\n self.padding_l = padding_l\n self.num_heads = num_heads\n self.weight_dropout = weight_dropout\n self.weight_softmax = weight_softmax\n\n self.weight = nn.Parameter(torch.Tensor(num_heads, 1, kernel_size))\n if bias:\n self.bias = nn.Parameter(torch.Tensor(input_size))\n else:\n self.bias = None\n\n self.reset_parameters()\n\n self.onnx_trace = False\n\n def reset_parameters(self):\n nn.init.xavier_uniform_(self.weight)\n if self.bias is not None:\n nn.init.constant_(self.bias, 0.0)\n\n def forward(self, x, incremental_state=None, unfold=False):\n \"\"\"Assuming the input, x, of the shape T x B x C and producing an output in the shape T x B x C\n args:\n x: Input of shape T x B x C, i.e. (timesteps, batch_size, input_size)\n incremental_state: A dict to keep the state\n unfold: unfold the input or not. If not, we use the matrix trick instead\n \"\"\"\n unfold = unfold or (incremental_state is not None)\n\n if unfold:\n output = self._forward_unfolded(x, incremental_state)\n else:\n output = self._forward_expanded(x, incremental_state)\n\n if self.bias is not None:\n output = output + self.bias.view(1, 1, -1)\n return output\n\n def prepare_for_onnx_export_(self):\n self.onnx_trace = True\n\n def _forward_unfolded(self, x, incremental_state):\n \"\"\"The conventional implementation of convolutions.\n Unfolding the input by having a window shifting to the right.\"\"\"\n T, B, C = x.size()\n K, H = self.kernel_size, self.num_heads\n R = C // H\n assert R * H == C == self.input_size\n\n weight = self.weight.view(H, K)\n if incremental_state is not None:\n input_buffer = self._get_input_buffer(incremental_state)\n if input_buffer is None:\n input_buffer = x.new()\n x_unfold = torch.cat([input_buffer, x.unsqueeze(3)], dim=3)\n if self.kernel_size > 1:\n self._set_input_buffer(\n incremental_state, x_unfold[:, :, :, -self.kernel_size + 1 :]\n )\n x_unfold = x_unfold.view(T * B * H, R, -1)\n else:\n # unfold the input: T x B x C --> T' x B x C x K\n x_unfold = unfold1d(x, self.kernel_size, self.padding_l, 0)\n x_unfold = x_unfold.view(T * B * H, R, K)\n\n if self.weight_softmax:\n weight = utils.softmax(weight, dim=1, onnx_trace=self.onnx_trace).type_as(\n weight\n )\n\n if incremental_state is not None:\n weight = weight[:, -x_unfold.size(2) :]\n K = weight.size(1)\n\n weight = (\n weight.view(1, H, K).expand(T * B, H, K).contiguous().view(T * B * H, K, 1)\n )\n\n weight = F.dropout(weight, self.weight_dropout, training=self.training)\n output = torch.bmm(x_unfold, weight) # T*B*H x R x 1\n output = output.view(T, B, C)\n return output\n\n def _forward_expanded(self, x, incremental_state):\n \"\"\"Turn the convolution filters into band matrices and do matrix multiplication.\n This is faster when the sequence is short, but less memory efficient.\n This is not used in the decoder during inference.\n \"\"\"\n T, B, C = x.size()\n K, H = self.kernel_size, self.num_heads\n R = C // H\n assert R * H == C == self.input_size\n\n weight = self.weight.view(H, K)\n if self.weight_softmax:\n weight = utils.softmax(weight, dim=1, onnx_trace=self.onnx_trace).type_as(\n weight\n )\n weight = weight.view(1, H, K).expand(T * B, H, K).contiguous()\n weight = weight.view(T, B * H, K).transpose(0, 1)\n\n x = x.view(T, B * H, R).transpose(0, 1)\n P = self.padding_l\n if K > T and P == K - 1:\n weight = weight.narrow(2, K - T, T)\n K, P = T, T - 1\n # turn the convolution filters into band matrices\n weight_expanded = weight.new_zeros(B * H, T, T + K - 1, requires_grad=False)\n weight_expanded.as_strided((B * H, T, K), (T * (T + K - 1), T + K, 1)).copy_(\n weight\n )\n weight_expanded = weight_expanded.narrow(2, P, T)\n weight_expanded = F.dropout(\n weight_expanded, self.weight_dropout, training=self.training\n )\n\n output = torch.bmm(weight_expanded, x)\n output = output.transpose(0, 1).contiguous().view(T, B, C)\n return output\n\n def reorder_incremental_state(self, incremental_state, new_order):\n input_buffer = self._get_input_buffer(incremental_state)\n if input_buffer is not None:\n input_buffer = input_buffer.index_select(1, new_order)\n self._set_input_buffer(incremental_state, input_buffer)\n\n def _get_input_buffer(self, incremental_state):\n return utils.get_incremental_state(self, incremental_state, \"input_buffer\")\n\n def _set_input_buffer(self, incremental_state, new_buffer):\n return utils.set_incremental_state(\n self, incremental_state, \"input_buffer\", new_buffer\n )\n\n def extra_repr(self):\n s = \"{}, kernel_size={}, padding_l={}, num_heads={}, weight_softmax={}, bias={}\".format(\n self.input_size,\n self.kernel_size,\n self.padding_l,\n self.num_heads,\n self.weight_softmax,\n self.bias is not None,\n )\n if self.weight_dropout > 0.0:\n s += \", weight_dropout={}\".format(self.weight_dropout)\n return s\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/linearized_convolution.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\n\nfrom .conv_tbc import ConvTBC\n\n\nclass LinearizedConvolution(ConvTBC):\n \"\"\"An optimized version of nn.Conv1d.\n\n At training time, this module uses ConvTBC, which is an optimized version\n of Conv1d. At inference time, it optimizes incremental generation (i.e.,\n one time step at a time) by replacing the convolutions with linear layers.\n Note that the input order changes from training to inference.\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, in_channels, out_channels, kernel_size, **kwargs):\n super().__init__(in_channels, out_channels, kernel_size, **kwargs)\n self._linearized_weight = None\n self.register_backward_hook(self._clear_linearized_weight)\n\n def forward(self, input, incremental_state=None):\n \"\"\"\n Args:\n incremental_state: Used to buffer signal; if not None, then input is\n expected to contain a single frame. If the input order changes\n between time steps, call reorder_incremental_state.\n Input:\n Time x Batch x Channel during training\n Batch x Time x Channel during inference\n \"\"\"\n if incremental_state is None:\n output = super().forward(input)\n if self.kernel_size[0] > 1 and self.padding[0] > 0:\n # remove future timesteps added by padding\n output = output[: -self.padding[0], :, :]\n return output\n\n # reshape weight\n weight = self._get_linearized_weight()\n kw = self.kernel_size[0]\n\n bsz = input.size(0) # input: bsz x len x dim\n if kw > 1:\n input = input.data\n input_buffer = self._get_input_buffer(incremental_state)\n if input_buffer is None:\n input_buffer = input.new(bsz, kw, input.size(2)).zero_()\n self._set_input_buffer(incremental_state, input_buffer)\n else:\n # shift buffer\n input_buffer[:, :-1, :] = input_buffer[:, 1:, :].clone()\n # append next input\n input_buffer[:, -1, :] = input[:, -1, :]\n input = input_buffer\n with torch.no_grad():\n output = F.linear(input.view(bsz, -1), weight, self.bias)\n return output.view(bsz, 1, -1)\n\n def reorder_incremental_state(self, incremental_state, new_order):\n input_buffer = self._get_input_buffer(incremental_state)\n if input_buffer is not None:\n input_buffer = input_buffer.index_select(0, new_order)\n self._set_input_buffer(incremental_state, input_buffer)\n\n def _get_input_buffer(self, incremental_state):\n return utils.get_incremental_state(self, incremental_state, \"input_buffer\")\n\n def _set_input_buffer(self, incremental_state, new_buffer):\n return utils.set_incremental_state(\n self, incremental_state, \"input_buffer\", new_buffer\n )\n\n def _get_linearized_weight(self):\n if self._linearized_weight is None:\n kw = self.kernel_size[0]\n weight = self.weight.transpose(2, 1).transpose(1, 0).contiguous()\n assert weight.size() == (self.out_channels, kw, self.in_channels)\n self._linearized_weight = torch.nn.Parameter(\n weight.view(self.out_channels, -1)\n )\n return self._linearized_weight\n\n def _clear_linearized_weight(self, *args):\n self._linearized_weight = None\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/logsumexp_moe.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\n\n\nclass LogSumExpMoE(torch.autograd.Function):\n \"\"\"Standard LogSumExp forward pass, but use *posterior* for the backward.\n\n See `\"Mixture Models for Diverse Machine Translation: Tricks of the Trade\"\n (Shen et al., 2019) <https://arxiv.org/abs/1902.07816>`_.\n \"\"\"\n\n @staticmethod\n def forward(ctx, logp, posterior, dim=-1):\n ctx.save_for_backward(posterior)\n ctx.dim = dim\n return torch.logsumexp(logp, dim=dim)\n\n @staticmethod\n def backward(ctx, grad_output):\n (posterior,) = ctx.saved_tensors\n grad_logp = grad_output.unsqueeze(ctx.dim) * posterior\n return grad_logp, None, None\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/mean_pool_gating_network.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\n\nclass MeanPoolGatingNetwork(torch.nn.Module):\n \"\"\"A simple mean-pooling gating network for selecting experts.\n\n This module applies mean pooling over an encoder's output and returns\n reponsibilities for each expert. The encoder format is expected to match\n :class:`fairseq.models.transformer.TransformerEncoder`.\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, embed_dim, num_experts, dropout=None):\n super().__init__()\n self.embed_dim = embed_dim\n self.num_experts = num_experts\n\n self.fc1 = torch.nn.Linear(embed_dim, embed_dim)\n self.dropout = torch.nn.Dropout(dropout) if dropout is not None else None\n self.fc2 = torch.nn.Linear(embed_dim, num_experts)\n\n def forward(self, encoder_out):\n if not (\n hasattr(encoder_out, \"encoder_out\")\n and hasattr(encoder_out, \"encoder_padding_mask\")\n and encoder_out.encoder_out.size(2) == self.embed_dim\n ):\n raise ValueError(\"Unexpected format for encoder_out\")\n\n # mean pooling over time\n encoder_padding_mask = encoder_out.encoder_padding_mask # B x T\n encoder_out = encoder_out.encoder_out.transpose(0, 1) # B x T x C\n if encoder_padding_mask is not None:\n encoder_out = encoder_out.clone() # required because of transpose above\n encoder_out[encoder_padding_mask] = 0\n ntokens = torch.sum(~encoder_padding_mask, dim=1, keepdim=True)\n x = torch.sum(encoder_out, dim=1) / ntokens.type_as(encoder_out)\n else:\n x = torch.mean(encoder_out, dim=1)\n\n x = torch.tanh(self.fc1(x))\n if self.dropout is not None:\n x = self.dropout(x)\n x = self.fc2(x)\n return F.log_softmax(x, dim=-1, dtype=torch.float32).type_as(x)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/multihead_attention.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport math\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\nfrom torch.nn import Parameter\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\n\n\nclass MultiheadAttention(nn.Module):\n \"\"\"Multi-headed attention.\n\n See \"Attention Is All You Need\" for more details.\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self,\n embed_dim,\n num_heads,\n kdim=None,\n vdim=None,\n dropout=0.0,\n bias=True,\n add_bias_kv=False,\n add_zero_attn=False,\n self_attention=False,\n encoder_decoder_attention=False,\n ):\n super().__init__()\n self.embed_dim = embed_dim\n self.kdim = kdim if kdim is not None else embed_dim\n self.vdim = vdim if vdim is not None else embed_dim\n self.qkv_same_dim = self.kdim == embed_dim and self.vdim == embed_dim\n\n self.num_heads = num_heads\n self.dropout = dropout\n self.head_dim = embed_dim // num_heads\n assert (\n self.head_dim * num_heads == self.embed_dim\n ), \"embed_dim must be divisible by num_heads\"\n self.scaling = self.head_dim ** -0.5\n\n self.self_attention = self_attention\n self.encoder_decoder_attention = encoder_decoder_attention\n\n assert not self.self_attention or self.qkv_same_dim, (\n \"Self-attention requires query, key and \" \"value to be of the same size\"\n )\n\n self.k_proj = nn.Linear(self.kdim, embed_dim, bias=bias)\n self.v_proj = nn.Linear(self.vdim, embed_dim, bias=bias)\n self.q_proj = nn.Linear(embed_dim, embed_dim, bias=bias)\n\n self.out_proj = nn.Linear(embed_dim, embed_dim, bias=bias)\n\n if add_bias_kv:\n self.bias_k = Parameter(torch.Tensor(1, 1, embed_dim))\n self.bias_v = Parameter(torch.Tensor(1, 1, embed_dim))\n else:\n self.bias_k = self.bias_v = None\n\n self.add_zero_attn = add_zero_attn\n\n self.reset_parameters()\n\n self.onnx_trace = False\n\n self.enable_torch_version = False\n if hasattr(F, \"multi_head_attention_forward\"):\n self.enable_torch_version = True\n else:\n self.enable_torch_version = False\n\n def prepare_for_onnx_export_(self):\n self.onnx_trace = True\n\n def reset_parameters(self):\n if self.qkv_same_dim:\n # Empirically observed the convergence to be much better with\n # the scaled initialization\n nn.init.xavier_uniform_(self.k_proj.weight, gain=1 / math.sqrt(2))\n nn.init.xavier_uniform_(self.v_proj.weight, gain=1 / math.sqrt(2))\n nn.init.xavier_uniform_(self.q_proj.weight, gain=1 / math.sqrt(2))\n else:\n nn.init.xavier_uniform_(self.k_proj.weight)\n nn.init.xavier_uniform_(self.v_proj.weight)\n nn.init.xavier_uniform_(self.q_proj.weight)\n\n nn.init.xavier_uniform_(self.out_proj.weight)\n nn.init.constant_(self.out_proj.bias, 0.0)\n if self.bias_k is not None:\n nn.init.xavier_normal_(self.bias_k)\n if self.bias_v is not None:\n nn.init.xavier_normal_(self.bias_v)\n\n def forward(\n self,\n query,\n key,\n value,\n key_padding_mask=None,\n incremental_state=None,\n need_weights=True,\n static_kv=False,\n attn_mask=None,\n before_softmax=False,\n need_head_weights=False,\n ):\n \"\"\"Input shape: Time x Batch x Channel\n\n Args:\n key_padding_mask (ByteTensor, optional): mask to exclude\n keys that are pads, of shape `(batch, src_len)`, where\n padding elements are indicated by 1s.\n need_weights (bool, optional): return the attention weights,\n averaged over heads (default: False).\n attn_mask (ByteTensor, optional): typically used to\n implement causal attention, where the mask prevents the\n attention from looking forward in time (default: None).\n before_softmax (bool, optional): return the raw attention\n weights and values before the attention softmax.\n need_head_weights (bool, optional): return the attention\n weights for each head. Implies *need_weights*. Default:\n return the average attention weights over all heads.\n \"\"\"\n if need_head_weights:\n need_weights = True\n\n tgt_len, bsz, embed_dim = query.size()\n assert embed_dim == self.embed_dim\n assert list(query.size()) == [tgt_len, bsz, embed_dim]\n\n if (\n self.enable_torch_version\n and not self.onnx_trace\n and incremental_state is None\n and not static_kv\n ):\n return F.multi_head_attention_forward(\n query,\n key,\n value,\n self.embed_dim,\n self.num_heads,\n torch.empty([0]),\n torch.cat((self.q_proj.bias, self.k_proj.bias, self.v_proj.bias)),\n self.bias_k,\n self.bias_v,\n self.add_zero_attn,\n self.dropout,\n self.out_proj.weight,\n self.out_proj.bias,\n self.training,\n key_padding_mask,\n need_weights,\n attn_mask,\n use_separate_proj_weight=True,\n q_proj_weight=self.q_proj.weight,\n k_proj_weight=self.k_proj.weight,\n v_proj_weight=self.v_proj.weight,\n )\n\n if incremental_state is not None:\n saved_state = self._get_input_buffer(incremental_state)\n if \"prev_key\" in saved_state:\n # previous time steps are cached - no need to recompute\n # key and value if they are static\n if static_kv:\n assert self.encoder_decoder_attention and not self.self_attention\n key = value = None\n else:\n saved_state = None\n\n if self.self_attention:\n q = self.q_proj(query)\n k = self.k_proj(query)\n v = self.v_proj(query)\n elif self.encoder_decoder_attention:\n # encoder-decoder attention\n q = self.q_proj(query)\n if key is None:\n assert value is None\n k = v = None\n else:\n k = self.k_proj(key)\n v = self.v_proj(key)\n\n else:\n q = self.q_proj(query)\n k = self.k_proj(key)\n v = self.v_proj(value)\n q *= self.scaling\n\n if self.bias_k is not None:\n assert self.bias_v is not None\n k = torch.cat([k, self.bias_k.repeat(1, bsz, 1)])\n v = torch.cat([v, self.bias_v.repeat(1, bsz, 1)])\n if attn_mask is not None:\n attn_mask = torch.cat(\n [attn_mask, attn_mask.new_zeros(attn_mask.size(0), 1)], dim=1\n )\n if key_padding_mask is not None:\n key_padding_mask = torch.cat(\n [\n key_padding_mask,\n key_padding_mask.new_zeros(key_padding_mask.size(0), 1),\n ],\n dim=1,\n )\n\n q = (\n q.contiguous()\n .view(tgt_len, bsz * self.num_heads, self.head_dim)\n .transpose(0, 1)\n )\n if k is not None:\n k = (\n k.contiguous()\n .view(-1, bsz * self.num_heads, self.head_dim)\n .transpose(0, 1)\n )\n if v is not None:\n v = (\n v.contiguous()\n .view(-1, bsz * self.num_heads, self.head_dim)\n .transpose(0, 1)\n )\n\n if saved_state is not None:\n # saved states are stored with shape (bsz, num_heads, seq_len, head_dim)\n if \"prev_key\" in saved_state:\n prev_key = saved_state[\"prev_key\"].view(\n bsz * self.num_heads, -1, self.head_dim\n )\n if static_kv:\n k = prev_key\n else:\n k = torch.cat((prev_key, k), dim=1)\n if \"prev_value\" in saved_state:\n prev_value = saved_state[\"prev_value\"].view(\n bsz * self.num_heads, -1, self.head_dim\n )\n if static_kv:\n v = prev_value\n else:\n v = torch.cat((prev_value, v), dim=1)\n key_padding_mask = self._append_prev_key_padding_mask(\n key_padding_mask=key_padding_mask,\n prev_key_padding_mask=saved_state.get(\"prev_key_padding_mask\", None),\n batch_size=bsz,\n src_len=k.size(1),\n static_kv=static_kv,\n )\n\n saved_state[\"prev_key\"] = k.view(bsz, self.num_heads, -1, self.head_dim)\n saved_state[\"prev_value\"] = v.view(bsz, self.num_heads, -1, self.head_dim)\n saved_state[\"prev_key_padding_mask\"] = key_padding_mask\n\n self._set_input_buffer(incremental_state, saved_state)\n\n src_len = k.size(1)\n\n # This is part of a workaround to get around fork/join parallelism\n # not supporting Optional types.\n if key_padding_mask is not None and key_padding_mask.shape == torch.Size([]):\n key_padding_mask = None\n\n if key_padding_mask is not None:\n assert key_padding_mask.size(0) == bsz\n assert key_padding_mask.size(1) == src_len\n\n if self.add_zero_attn:\n src_len += 1\n k = torch.cat([k, k.new_zeros((k.size(0), 1) + k.size()[2:])], dim=1)\n v = torch.cat([v, v.new_zeros((v.size(0), 1) + v.size()[2:])], dim=1)\n if attn_mask is not None:\n attn_mask = torch.cat(\n [attn_mask, attn_mask.new_zeros(attn_mask.size(0), 1)], dim=1\n )\n if key_padding_mask is not None:\n key_padding_mask = torch.cat(\n [\n key_padding_mask,\n torch.zeros(key_padding_mask.size(0), 1).type_as(\n key_padding_mask\n ),\n ],\n dim=1,\n )\n\n attn_weights = torch.bmm(q, k.transpose(1, 2))\n attn_weights = self.apply_sparse_mask(attn_weights, tgt_len, src_len, bsz)\n\n assert list(attn_weights.size()) == [bsz * self.num_heads, tgt_len, src_len]\n\n if attn_mask is not None:\n attn_mask = attn_mask.unsqueeze(0)\n if self.onnx_trace:\n attn_mask = attn_mask.repeat(attn_weights.size(0), 1, 1)\n attn_weights += attn_mask\n\n if key_padding_mask is not None:\n # don't attend to padding symbols\n attn_weights = attn_weights.view(bsz, self.num_heads, tgt_len, src_len)\n attn_weights = attn_weights.masked_fill(\n key_padding_mask.unsqueeze(1).unsqueeze(2), float(\"-inf\"),\n )\n attn_weights = attn_weights.view(bsz * self.num_heads, tgt_len, src_len)\n\n if before_softmax:\n return attn_weights, v\n\n attn_weights_float = utils.softmax(\n attn_weights, dim=-1, onnx_trace=self.onnx_trace\n )\n attn_weights = attn_weights_float.type_as(attn_weights)\n attn_probs = F.dropout(\n attn_weights_float.type_as(attn_weights),\n p=self.dropout,\n training=self.training,\n )\n\n attn = torch.bmm(attn_probs, v)\n assert list(attn.size()) == [bsz * self.num_heads, tgt_len, self.head_dim]\n if self.onnx_trace and attn.size(1) == 1:\n # when ONNX tracing a single decoder step (sequence length == 1)\n # the transpose is a no-op copy before view, thus unnecessary\n attn = attn.contiguous().view(tgt_len, bsz, embed_dim)\n else:\n attn = attn.transpose(0, 1).contiguous().view(tgt_len, bsz, embed_dim)\n attn = self.out_proj(attn)\n\n if need_weights:\n attn_weights = attn_weights_float.view(\n bsz, self.num_heads, tgt_len, src_len\n ).transpose(1, 0)\n if not need_head_weights:\n # average attention weights over heads\n attn_weights = attn_weights.mean(dim=0)\n else:\n attn_weights = None\n\n return attn, attn_weights\n\n @staticmethod\n def _append_prev_key_padding_mask(\n key_padding_mask, prev_key_padding_mask, batch_size, src_len, static_kv,\n ):\n # saved key padding masks have shape (bsz, seq_len)\n if prev_key_padding_mask is not None and static_kv:\n key_padding_mask = prev_key_padding_mask\n elif prev_key_padding_mask is not None and key_padding_mask is not None:\n key_padding_mask = torch.cat(\n (prev_key_padding_mask, key_padding_mask), dim=1\n )\n # During incremental decoding, as the padding token enters and\n # leaves the frame, there will be a time when prev or current\n # is None\n elif prev_key_padding_mask is not None:\n filler = torch.zeros(\n batch_size, src_len - prev_key_padding_mask.size(1)\n ).bool()\n if prev_key_padding_mask.is_cuda:\n filler = filler.cuda()\n key_padding_mask = torch.cat((prev_key_padding_mask, filler), dim=1)\n elif key_padding_mask is not None:\n filler = torch.zeros(batch_size, src_len - key_padding_mask.size(1)).bool()\n if key_padding_mask.is_cuda:\n filler = filler.cuda()\n key_padding_mask = torch.cat((filler, key_padding_mask), dim=1)\n return key_padding_mask\n\n def reorder_incremental_state(self, incremental_state, new_order):\n \"\"\"Reorder buffered internal state (for incremental generation).\"\"\"\n input_buffer = self._get_input_buffer(incremental_state)\n if input_buffer is not None:\n for k in input_buffer.keys():\n if input_buffer[k] is not None:\n input_buffer[k] = input_buffer[k].index_select(0, new_order)\n self._set_input_buffer(incremental_state, input_buffer)\n\n def _get_input_buffer(self, incremental_state):\n return utils.get_incremental_state(self, incremental_state, \"attn_state\",) or {}\n\n def _set_input_buffer(self, incremental_state, buffer):\n utils.set_incremental_state(\n self, incremental_state, \"attn_state\", buffer,\n )\n\n def apply_sparse_mask(self, attn_weights, tgt_len, src_len, bsz):\n return attn_weights\n\n def upgrade_state_dict_named(self, state_dict, name):\n prefix = name + \".\" if name != \"\" else \"\"\n items_to_add = {}\n keys_to_remove = []\n for k in state_dict.keys():\n if k.endswith(prefix + \"in_proj_weight\"):\n # in_proj_weight used to be q + k + v with same dimensions\n dim = int(state_dict[k].shape[0] / 3)\n items_to_add[prefix + \"q_proj.weight\"] = state_dict[k][:dim]\n items_to_add[prefix + \"k_proj.weight\"] = state_dict[k][dim : 2 * dim]\n items_to_add[prefix + \"v_proj.weight\"] = state_dict[k][2 * dim :]\n\n keys_to_remove.append(k)\n\n k_bias = prefix + \"in_proj_bias\"\n if k_bias in state_dict.keys():\n dim = int(state_dict[k].shape[0] / 3)\n items_to_add[prefix + \"q_proj.bias\"] = state_dict[k_bias][:dim]\n items_to_add[prefix + \"k_proj.bias\"] = state_dict[k_bias][\n dim : 2 * dim\n ]\n items_to_add[prefix + \"v_proj.bias\"] = state_dict[k_bias][2 * dim :]\n\n keys_to_remove.append(prefix + \"in_proj_bias\")\n\n for k in keys_to_remove:\n del state_dict[k]\n\n for key, value in items_to_add.items():\n state_dict[key] = value\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/positional_embedding.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch.nn as nn\n\nfrom .learned_positional_embedding import LearnedPositionalEmbedding\nfrom .sinusoidal_positional_embedding import SinusoidalPositionalEmbedding\n\n\ndef PositionalEmbedding(\n num_embeddings: int, embedding_dim: int, padding_idx: int, learned: bool = False,\n):\n if learned:\n # if padding_idx is specified then offset the embedding ids by\n # this index and adjust num_embeddings appropriately\n # TODO: The right place for this offset would be inside\n # LearnedPositionalEmbedding. Move this there for a cleaner implementation.\n if padding_idx is not None:\n num_embeddings = num_embeddings + padding_idx + 1\n m = LearnedPositionalEmbedding(num_embeddings, embedding_dim, padding_idx)\n nn.init.normal_(m.weight, mean=0, std=embedding_dim ** -0.5)\n if padding_idx is not None:\n nn.init.constant_(m.weight[padding_idx], 0)\n else:\n m = SinusoidalPositionalEmbedding(\n embedding_dim, padding_idx, init_size=num_embeddings + padding_idx + 1,\n )\n return m\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/scalar_bias.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n#\n\nimport torch\n\n\nclass ScalarBias(torch.autograd.Function):\n \"\"\"\n Adds a vector of scalars, used in self-attention mechanism to allow\n the model to optionally attend to this vector instead of the past\n \"\"\"\n\n @staticmethod\n def forward(ctx, input, dim, bias_init):\n size = list(input.size())\n size[dim] += 1\n output = input.new(*size).fill_(bias_init)\n output.narrow(dim, 1, size[dim] - 1).copy_(input)\n ctx.dim = dim\n return output\n\n @staticmethod\n def backward(ctx, grad):\n return grad.narrow(ctx.dim, 1, grad.size(ctx.dim) - 1), None, None\n\n\ndef scalar_bias(input, dim, bias_init=0):\n return ScalarBias.apply(input, dim, bias_init)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/sinusoidal_positional_embedding.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport math\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn as nn\nimport torch.onnx.operators\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\n\n\nclass SinusoidalPositionalEmbedding(nn.Module):\n \"\"\"This module produces sinusoidal positional embeddings of any length.\n\n Padding symbols are ignored.\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, embedding_dim, padding_idx, init_size=1024):\n super().__init__()\n self.embedding_dim = embedding_dim\n self.padding_idx = padding_idx\n self.weights = SinusoidalPositionalEmbedding.get_embedding(\n init_size, embedding_dim, padding_idx,\n )\n self.onnx_trace = False\n self.register_buffer(\"_float_tensor\", torch.FloatTensor(1))\n\n def prepare_for_onnx_export_(self):\n self.onnx_trace = True\n\n @staticmethod\n def get_embedding(num_embeddings, embedding_dim, padding_idx=None):\n \"\"\"Build sinusoidal embeddings.\n\n This matches the implementation in tensor2tensor, but differs slightly\n from the description in Section 3.5 of \"Attention Is All You Need\".\n \"\"\"\n half_dim = embedding_dim // 2\n emb = math.log(10000) / (half_dim - 1)\n emb = torch.exp(torch.arange(half_dim, dtype=torch.float) * -emb)\n emb = torch.arange(num_embeddings, dtype=torch.float).unsqueeze(\n 1\n ) * emb.unsqueeze(0)\n emb = torch.cat([torch.sin(emb), torch.cos(emb)], dim=1).view(\n num_embeddings, -1\n )\n if embedding_dim % 2 == 1:\n # zero pad\n emb = torch.cat([emb, torch.zeros(num_embeddings, 1)], dim=1)\n if padding_idx is not None:\n emb[padding_idx, :] = 0\n return emb\n\n def forward(self, input, incremental_state=None, timestep=None, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Input is expected to be of size [bsz x seqlen].\"\"\"\n bsz, seq_len = torch.onnx.operators.shape_as_tensor(input)\n max_pos = self.padding_idx + 1 + seq_len\n if self.weights is None or max_pos > self.weights.size(0):\n # recompute/expand embeddings if needed\n self.weights = SinusoidalPositionalEmbedding.get_embedding(\n max_pos, self.embedding_dim, self.padding_idx,\n )\n self.weights = self.weights.to(self._float_tensor)\n\n if incremental_state is not None:\n # positions is the same for every token when decoding a single step\n pos = timestep.view(-1)[0] + 1 if timestep is not None else seq_len\n if self.onnx_trace:\n return (\n self.weights.index_select(index=self.padding_idx + pos, dim=0)\n .unsqueeze(1)\n .repeat(bsz, 1, 1)\n )\n return self.weights[self.padding_idx + pos, :].expand(bsz, 1, -1)\n\n positions = utils.make_positions(\n input, self.padding_idx, onnx_trace=self.onnx_trace\n )\n if self.onnx_trace:\n flat_embeddings = self.weights.detach().index_select(0, positions.view(-1))\n embedding_shape = torch.cat(\n (bsz.view(1), seq_len.view(1), torch.LongTensor([-1]))\n )\n embeddings = torch.onnx.operators.reshape_from_tensor_shape(\n flat_embeddings, embedding_shape\n )\n return embeddings\n return (\n self.weights.index_select(0, positions.view(-1))\n .view(bsz, seq_len, -1)\n .detach()\n )\n\n def max_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Maximum number of supported positions.\"\"\"\n return int(1e5) # an arbitrary large number\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/sparse_multihead_attention.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport math\nimport torch\nfrom .multihead_attention import MultiheadAttention\n\n\nclass SparseMultiheadAttention(MultiheadAttention):\n \"\"\" Sparse Multi-Headed Attention.\n\n \"Generating Long Sequences with Sparse Transformers\". Implements\n fixed factorized self attention, where l=stride and c=expressivity.\n A(1) includes all words in the stride window and A(2) takes a summary of c\n words from the end of each stride window.\n If is_bidirectional=False, we do not include any words past the current word,\n as in the paper.\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self,\n embed_dim,\n num_heads,\n kdim=None,\n vdim=None,\n dropout=0.0,\n bias=True,\n add_bias_kv=False,\n add_zero_attn=False,\n self_attention=False,\n encoder_decoder_attention=False,\n stride=32,\n expressivity=8,\n is_bidirectional=True,\n ):\n\n super().__init__(\n embed_dim,\n num_heads,\n kdim,\n vdim,\n dropout,\n bias,\n add_bias_kv,\n add_zero_attn,\n self_attention,\n encoder_decoder_attention,\n )\n\n self.is_bidirectional = is_bidirectional\n self.stride = stride\n self.expressivity = expressivity\n assert self.stride > 0 and self.stride >= self.expressivity\n\n # Used for Ai(2) calculations - beginning of [l-c, l] range\n def compute_checkpoint(self, word_index):\n if word_index % self.stride == 0 and word_index != 0:\n checkpoint_index = word_index - self.expressivity\n else:\n checkpoint_index = (\n math.floor(word_index / self.stride) * self.stride\n + self.stride\n - self.expressivity\n )\n return checkpoint_index\n\n # Computes Ai(2)\n def compute_subset_summaries(self, absolute_max):\n checkpoint_index = self.compute_checkpoint(0)\n subset_two = set()\n while checkpoint_index <= absolute_max - 1:\n summary = set(\n range(\n checkpoint_index,\n min(checkpoint_index + self.expressivity + 1, absolute_max),\n )\n )\n subset_two = subset_two.union(summary)\n checkpoint_index = self.compute_checkpoint(checkpoint_index + self.stride)\n return subset_two\n\n # Sparse Transformer Fixed Attention Pattern: https://arxiv.org/pdf/1904.10509.pdf\n def compute_fixed_attention_subset(self, word_index, tgt_len):\n # +1s account for range function; [min, max) -> [min, max]\n if not self.is_bidirectional:\n absolute_max = word_index + 1\n else:\n absolute_max = tgt_len\n\n # Subset 1 - whole window\n rounded_index = (\n math.floor((word_index + self.stride) / self.stride) * self.stride\n )\n if word_index % self.stride == 0 and word_index != 0:\n subset_one = set(\n range(word_index - self.stride, min(absolute_max, word_index + 1))\n )\n else:\n subset_one = set(\n range(\n max(0, rounded_index - self.stride),\n min(absolute_max, rounded_index + 1),\n )\n )\n\n # Subset 2 - summary per window\n # If bidirectional, subset 2 is the same for every index\n subset_two = set()\n if not self.is_bidirectional:\n subset_two = self.compute_subset_summaries(absolute_max)\n\n return subset_one.union(subset_two)\n\n # Compute sparse mask - if bidirectional, can pre-compute and store\n def buffered_sparse_mask(self, tensor, tgt_len, src_len):\n assert tgt_len > self.stride\n sparse_mask = torch.empty((tgt_len, src_len)).float().fill_(float(\"-inf\"))\n\n # If bidirectional, subset 2 is the same for every index\n subset_summaries = set()\n if self.is_bidirectional:\n subset_summaries = self.compute_subset_summaries(tgt_len)\n\n for i in range(tgt_len):\n fixed_attention_subset = self.compute_fixed_attention_subset(i, tgt_len)\n fixed_attention_subset = fixed_attention_subset.union(subset_summaries)\n included_word_indices = torch.LongTensor(list(fixed_attention_subset))\n sparse_mask[i].index_fill_(0, included_word_indices, 0)\n return sparse_mask.type_as(tensor)\n\n def apply_sparse_mask(self, attn_weights, tgt_len, src_len, bsz):\n sparse_mask = self.buffered_sparse_mask(attn_weights, tgt_len, src_len)\n sparse_mask = sparse_mask.unsqueeze(0).expand(\n bsz * self.num_heads, tgt_len, src_len\n )\n attn_weights += sparse_mask\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/sparse_transformer_sentence_encoder.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch.nn as nn\nfrom fairseq.modules import TransformerSentenceEncoder\nfrom fairseq.modules.sparse_transformer_sentence_encoder_layer import (\n SparseTransformerSentenceEncoderLayer,\n)\n\n\nclass SparseTransformerSentenceEncoder(TransformerSentenceEncoder):\n \"\"\"\n Sparse implementation of the TransformerSentenceEncoder\n - see SparseMultiheadAttention\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self,\n padding_idx: int,\n vocab_size: int,\n num_encoder_layers: int = 6,\n embedding_dim: int = 768,\n ffn_embedding_dim: int = 3072,\n num_attention_heads: int = 8,\n dropout: float = 0.1,\n attention_dropout: float = 0.1,\n activation_dropout: float = 0.1,\n max_seq_len: int = 256,\n num_segments: int = 2,\n use_position_embeddings: bool = True,\n offset_positions_by_padding: bool = True,\n encoder_normalize_before: bool = False,\n apply_bert_init: bool = False,\n activation_fn: str = \"relu\",\n learned_pos_embedding: bool = True,\n add_bias_kv: bool = False,\n add_zero_attn: bool = False,\n embed_scale: float = None,\n freeze_embeddings: bool = False,\n n_trans_layers_to_freeze: int = 0,\n export: bool = False,\n is_bidirectional: bool = True,\n stride: int = 32,\n expressivity: int = 8,\n ) -> None:\n\n super().__init__(\n padding_idx,\n vocab_size,\n num_encoder_layers,\n embedding_dim,\n ffn_embedding_dim,\n num_attention_heads,\n dropout,\n attention_dropout,\n activation_dropout,\n max_seq_len,\n num_segments,\n use_position_embeddings,\n offset_positions_by_padding,\n encoder_normalize_before,\n apply_bert_init,\n activation_fn,\n learned_pos_embedding,\n add_bias_kv,\n add_zero_attn,\n embed_scale,\n freeze_embeddings,\n n_trans_layers_to_freeze,\n export,\n )\n\n self.layers = nn.ModuleList(\n [\n SparseTransformerSentenceEncoderLayer(\n embedding_dim=self.embedding_dim,\n ffn_embedding_dim=ffn_embedding_dim,\n num_attention_heads=num_attention_heads,\n dropout=self.dropout,\n attention_dropout=attention_dropout,\n activation_dropout=activation_dropout,\n activation_fn=activation_fn,\n add_bias_kv=add_bias_kv,\n add_zero_attn=add_zero_attn,\n export=export,\n is_bidirectional=is_bidirectional,\n stride=stride,\n expressivity=expressivity,\n )\n for _ in range(num_encoder_layers)\n ]\n )\n\n def freeze_module_params(m):\n if m is not None:\n for p in m.parameters():\n p.requires_grad = False\n\n for layer in range(n_trans_layers_to_freeze):\n freeze_module_params(self.layers[layer])\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/sparse_transformer_sentence_encoder_layer.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom fairseq.modules import TransformerSentenceEncoderLayer\nfrom fairseq.modules.sparse_multihead_attention import SparseMultiheadAttention\n\n\nclass SparseTransformerSentenceEncoderLayer(TransformerSentenceEncoderLayer):\n \"\"\"\n Implements a Sprase Transformer Encoder Layer (see SparseMultiheadAttention)\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self,\n embedding_dim: int = 768,\n ffn_embedding_dim: int = 3072,\n num_attention_heads: int = 8,\n dropout: float = 0.1,\n attention_dropout: float = 0.1,\n activation_dropout: float = 0.1,\n activation_fn: str = \"relu\",\n add_bias_kv: bool = False,\n add_zero_attn: bool = False,\n export: bool = False,\n is_bidirectional: bool = True,\n stride: int = 32,\n expressivity: int = 8,\n ) -> None:\n\n super().__init__(\n embedding_dim,\n ffn_embedding_dim,\n num_attention_heads,\n dropout,\n attention_dropout,\n activation_dropout,\n activation_fn,\n add_bias_kv,\n add_zero_attn,\n export,\n )\n\n self.self_attn = SparseMultiheadAttention(\n self.embedding_dim,\n num_attention_heads,\n dropout=attention_dropout,\n add_bias_kv=add_bias_kv,\n add_zero_attn=add_zero_attn,\n self_attention=True,\n is_bidirectional=is_bidirectional,\n stride=stride,\n expressivity=expressivity,\n )\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/transformer_layer.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn as nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\nfrom fairseq import utils\nfrom fairseq.modules import LayerNorm, MultiheadAttention\n\n\nclass TransformerEncoderLayer(nn.Module):\n \"\"\"Encoder layer block.\n\n In the original paper each operation (multi-head attention or FFN) is\n postprocessed with: `dropout -> add residual -> layernorm`. In the\n tensor2tensor code they suggest that learning is more robust when\n preprocessing each layer with layernorm and postprocessing with:\n `dropout -> add residual`. We default to the approach in the paper, but the\n tensor2tensor approach can be enabled by setting\n *args.encoder_normalize_before* to ``True``.\n\n Args:\n args (argparse.Namespace): parsed command-line arguments\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, args):\n super().__init__()\n self.embed_dim = args.encoder_embed_dim\n self.self_attn = MultiheadAttention(\n self.embed_dim,\n args.encoder_attention_heads,\n dropout=args.attention_dropout,\n self_attention=True,\n )\n self.self_attn_layer_norm = LayerNorm(self.embed_dim)\n self.dropout = args.dropout\n self.activation_fn = utils.get_activation_fn(\n activation=getattr(args, \"activation_fn\", \"relu\")\n )\n self.activation_dropout = getattr(args, \"activation_dropout\", 0)\n if self.activation_dropout == 0:\n # for backwards compatibility with models that use args.relu_dropout\n self.activation_dropout = getattr(args, \"relu_dropout\", 0)\n self.normalize_before = args.encoder_normalize_before\n self.fc1 = Linear(self.embed_dim, args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim)\n self.fc2 = Linear(args.encoder_ffn_embed_dim, self.embed_dim)\n self.final_layer_norm = LayerNorm(self.embed_dim)\n\n def upgrade_state_dict_named(self, state_dict, name):\n \"\"\"\n Rename layer norm states from `...layer_norms.0.weight` to\n `...self_attn_layer_norm.weight` and `...layer_norms.1.weight` to\n `...final_layer_norm.weight`\n \"\"\"\n layer_norm_map = {\"0\": \"self_attn_layer_norm\", \"1\": \"final_layer_norm\"}\n for old, new in layer_norm_map.items():\n for m in (\"weight\", \"bias\"):\n k = \"{}.layer_norms.{}.{}\".format(name, old, m)\n if k in state_dict:\n state_dict[\"{}.{}.{}\".format(name, new, m)] = state_dict[k]\n del state_dict[k]\n\n def forward(self, x, encoder_padding_mask, attn_mask=None):\n \"\"\"\n Args:\n x (Tensor): input to the layer of shape `(seq_len, batch, embed_dim)`\n encoder_padding_mask (ByteTensor): binary ByteTensor of shape\n `(batch, src_len)` where padding elements are indicated by ``1``.\n attn_mask (ByteTensor): binary tensor of shape (T_tgt, T_src), where\n T_tgt is the length of query, while T_src is the length of key,\n though here both query and key is x here,\n attn_mask[t_tgt, t_src] = 1 means when calculating embedding\n for t_tgt, t_src is excluded (or masked out), =0 means it is\n included in attention\n\n Returns:\n encoded output of shape `(seq_len, batch, embed_dim)`\n \"\"\"\n residual = x\n x = self.maybe_layer_norm(self.self_attn_layer_norm, x, before=True)\n if attn_mask is not None:\n attn_mask = attn_mask.masked_fill(attn_mask.bool(), -1e8)\n # anything in original attn_mask = 1, becomes -1e8\n # anything in original attn_mask = 0, becomes 0\n # Note that we cannot use -inf here, because at some edge cases,\n # the attention weight (before softmax) for some padded element in query\n # will become -inf, which results in NaN in model parameters\n # TODO: to formally solve this problem, we need to change fairseq's\n # MultiheadAttention. We will do this later on.\n x, _ = self.self_attn(\n query=x, key=x, value=x, key_padding_mask=encoder_padding_mask\n )\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n x = residual + x\n x = self.maybe_layer_norm(self.self_attn_layer_norm, x, after=True)\n\n residual = x\n x = self.maybe_layer_norm(self.final_layer_norm, x, before=True)\n x = self.activation_fn(self.fc1(x))\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.activation_dropout, training=self.training)\n x = self.fc2(x)\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n x = residual + x\n x = self.maybe_layer_norm(self.final_layer_norm, x, after=True)\n return x\n\n def maybe_layer_norm(self, layer_norm, x, before=False, after=False):\n assert before ^ after\n if after ^ self.normalize_before:\n return layer_norm(x)\n else:\n return x\n\n\nclass TransformerDecoderLayer(nn.Module):\n \"\"\"Decoder layer block.\n\n In the original paper each operation (multi-head attention, encoder\n attention or FFN) is postprocessed with: `dropout -> add residual ->\n layernorm`. In the tensor2tensor code they suggest that learning is more\n robust when preprocessing each layer with layernorm and postprocessing with:\n `dropout -> add residual`. We default to the approach in the paper, but the\n tensor2tensor approach can be enabled by setting\n *args.decoder_normalize_before* to ``True``.\n\n Args:\n args (argparse.Namespace): parsed command-line arguments\n no_encoder_attn (bool, optional): whether to attend to encoder outputs\n (default: False).\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self, args, no_encoder_attn=False, add_bias_kv=False, add_zero_attn=False\n ):\n super().__init__()\n self.embed_dim = args.decoder_embed_dim\n self.cross_self_attention = getattr(args, \"cross_self_attention\", False)\n self.self_attn = MultiheadAttention(\n embed_dim=self.embed_dim,\n num_heads=args.decoder_attention_heads,\n dropout=args.attention_dropout,\n add_bias_kv=add_bias_kv,\n add_zero_attn=add_zero_attn,\n self_attention=not self.cross_self_attention,\n )\n self.dropout = args.dropout\n self.activation_fn = utils.get_activation_fn(\n activation=getattr(args, \"activation_fn\", \"relu\")\n )\n self.activation_dropout = getattr(args, \"activation_dropout\", 0)\n if self.activation_dropout == 0:\n # for backwards compatibility with models that use args.relu_dropout\n self.activation_dropout = getattr(args, \"relu_dropout\", 0)\n self.normalize_before = args.decoder_normalize_before\n\n # use layerNorm rather than FusedLayerNorm for exporting.\n # char_inputs can be used to determint this.\n # TODO remove this once we update apex with the fix\n export = getattr(args, \"char_inputs\", False)\n self.self_attn_layer_norm = LayerNorm(self.embed_dim, export=export)\n\n if no_encoder_attn:\n self.encoder_attn = None\n self.encoder_attn_layer_norm = None\n else:\n self.encoder_attn = MultiheadAttention(\n self.embed_dim,\n args.decoder_attention_heads,\n kdim=getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", None),\n vdim=getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", None),\n dropout=args.attention_dropout,\n encoder_decoder_attention=True,\n )\n self.encoder_attn_layer_norm = LayerNorm(self.embed_dim, export=export)\n\n self.fc1 = Linear(self.embed_dim, args.decoder_ffn_embed_dim)\n self.fc2 = Linear(args.decoder_ffn_embed_dim, self.embed_dim)\n\n self.final_layer_norm = LayerNorm(self.embed_dim, export=export)\n self.need_attn = True\n\n self.onnx_trace = False\n\n def prepare_for_onnx_export_(self):\n self.onnx_trace = True\n\n def forward(\n self,\n x,\n encoder_out=None,\n encoder_padding_mask=None,\n incremental_state=None,\n prev_self_attn_state=None,\n prev_attn_state=None,\n self_attn_mask=None,\n self_attn_padding_mask=None,\n need_attn=False,\n need_head_weights=False,\n ):\n \"\"\"\n Args:\n x (Tensor): input to the layer of shape `(seq_len, batch, embed_dim)`\n encoder_padding_mask (ByteTensor, optional): binary\n ByteTensor of shape `(batch, src_len)` where padding\n elements are indicated by ``1``.\n need_attn (bool, optional): return attention weights\n need_head_weights (bool, optional): return attention weights\n for each head (default: return average over heads).\n\n Returns:\n encoded output of shape `(seq_len, batch, embed_dim)`\n \"\"\"\n if need_head_weights:\n need_attn = True\n\n residual = x\n x = self.maybe_layer_norm(self.self_attn_layer_norm, x, before=True)\n if prev_self_attn_state is not None:\n if incremental_state is None:\n incremental_state = {}\n prev_key, prev_value = prev_self_attn_state[:2]\n saved_state = {\"prev_key\": prev_key, \"prev_value\": prev_value}\n if len(prev_self_attn_state) >= 3:\n saved_state[\"prev_key_padding_mask\"] = prev_self_attn_state[2]\n self.self_attn._set_input_buffer(incremental_state, saved_state)\n\n if self.cross_self_attention and not (\n incremental_state is not None\n and \"prev_key\" in self.self_attn._get_input_buffer(incremental_state)\n ):\n if self_attn_mask is not None:\n self_attn_mask = torch.cat(\n (x.new(x.size(0), encoder_out.size(0)).zero_(), self_attn_mask),\n dim=1,\n )\n if self_attn_padding_mask is not None:\n if encoder_padding_mask is None:\n encoder_padding_mask = self_attn_padding_mask.new(\n encoder_out.size(1), encoder_out.size(0)\n ).zero_()\n self_attn_padding_mask = torch.cat(\n (encoder_padding_mask, self_attn_padding_mask), dim=1\n )\n y = torch.cat((encoder_out, x), dim=0)\n else:\n y = x\n\n x, attn = self.self_attn(\n query=x,\n key=y,\n value=y,\n key_padding_mask=self_attn_padding_mask,\n incremental_state=incremental_state,\n need_weights=False,\n attn_mask=self_attn_mask,\n )\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n x = residual + x\n x = self.maybe_layer_norm(self.self_attn_layer_norm, x, after=True)\n\n if self.encoder_attn is not None:\n residual = x\n x = self.maybe_layer_norm(self.encoder_attn_layer_norm, x, before=True)\n if prev_attn_state is not None:\n if incremental_state is None:\n incremental_state = {}\n prev_key, prev_value = prev_attn_state[:2]\n saved_state = {\"prev_key\": prev_key, \"prev_value\": prev_value}\n if len(prev_attn_state) >= 3:\n saved_state[\"prev_key_padding_mask\"] = prev_attn_state[2]\n self.encoder_attn._set_input_buffer(incremental_state, saved_state)\n\n x, attn = self.encoder_attn(\n query=x,\n key=encoder_out,\n value=encoder_out,\n key_padding_mask=encoder_padding_mask,\n incremental_state=incremental_state,\n static_kv=True,\n need_weights=need_attn or (not self.training and self.need_attn),\n need_head_weights=need_head_weights,\n )\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n x = residual + x\n x = self.maybe_layer_norm(self.encoder_attn_layer_norm, x, after=True)\n\n residual = x\n x = self.maybe_layer_norm(self.final_layer_norm, x, before=True)\n x = self.activation_fn(self.fc1(x))\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.activation_dropout, training=self.training)\n x = self.fc2(x)\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n x = residual + x\n x = self.maybe_layer_norm(self.final_layer_norm, x, after=True)\n if self.onnx_trace and incremental_state is not None:\n saved_state = self.self_attn._get_input_buffer(incremental_state)\n if self_attn_padding_mask is not None:\n self_attn_state = (\n saved_state[\"prev_key\"],\n saved_state[\"prev_value\"],\n saved_state[\"prev_key_padding_mask\"],\n )\n else:\n self_attn_state = saved_state[\"prev_key\"], saved_state[\"prev_value\"]\n return x, attn, self_attn_state\n return x, attn\n\n def maybe_layer_norm(self, layer_norm, x, before=False, after=False):\n assert before ^ after\n if after ^ self.normalize_before:\n return layer_norm(x)\n else:\n return x\n\n def make_generation_fast_(self, need_attn=False, **kwargs):\n self.need_attn = need_attn\n\n\ndef Linear(in_features, out_features, bias=True):\n m = nn.Linear(in_features, out_features, bias)\n nn.init.xavier_uniform_(m.weight)\n if bias:\n nn.init.constant_(m.bias, 0.0)\n return m\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/transformer_sentence_encoder.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom typing import Optional, Tuple\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn as nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\nfrom fairseq.modules import (\n LayerNorm,\n MultiheadAttention,\n PositionalEmbedding,\n TransformerSentenceEncoderLayer,\n)\nimport random\n\n\ndef init_bert_params(module):\n \"\"\"\n Initialize the weights specific to the BERT Model.\n This overrides the default initializations depending on the specified arguments.\n 1. If normal_init_linear_weights is set then weights of linear\n layer will be initialized using the normal distribution and\n bais will be set to the specified value.\n 2. If normal_init_embed_weights is set then weights of embedding\n layer will be initialized using the normal distribution.\n 3. If normal_init_proj_weights is set then weights of\n in_project_weight for MultiHeadAttention initialized using\n the normal distribution (to be validated).\n \"\"\"\n\n if isinstance(module, nn.Linear):\n module.weight.data.normal_(mean=0.0, std=0.02)\n if module.bias is not None:\n module.bias.data.zero_()\n if isinstance(module, nn.Embedding):\n module.weight.data.normal_(mean=0.0, std=0.02)\n if module.padding_idx is not None:\n module.weight.data[module.padding_idx].zero_()\n if isinstance(module, MultiheadAttention):\n module.q_proj.weight.data.normal_(mean=0.0, std=0.02)\n module.k_proj.weight.data.normal_(mean=0.0, std=0.02)\n module.v_proj.weight.data.normal_(mean=0.0, std=0.02)\n\n\nclass TransformerSentenceEncoder(nn.Module):\n \"\"\"\n Implementation for a Bi-directional Transformer based Sentence Encoder used\n in BERT/XLM style pre-trained models.\n\n This first computes the token embedding using the token embedding matrix,\n position embeddings (if specified) and segment embeddings\n (if specified). After applying the specified number of\n TransformerEncoderLayers, it outputs all the internal states of the\n encoder as well as the final representation associated with the first\n token (usually CLS token).\n\n Input:\n - tokens: B x T matrix representing sentences\n - segment_labels: B x T matrix representing segment label for tokens\n\n Output:\n - a tuple of the following:\n - a list of internal model states used to compute the\n predictions where each tensor has shape B x T x C\n - sentence representation associated with first input token\n in format B x C.\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self,\n padding_idx: int,\n vocab_size: int,\n num_encoder_layers: int = 6,\n embedding_dim: int = 768,\n ffn_embedding_dim: int = 3072,\n num_attention_heads: int = 8,\n dropout: float = 0.1,\n attention_dropout: float = 0.1,\n activation_dropout: float = 0.1,\n layerdrop: float = 0.0,\n max_seq_len: int = 256,\n num_segments: int = 2,\n use_position_embeddings: bool = True,\n offset_positions_by_padding: bool = True,\n encoder_normalize_before: bool = False,\n apply_bert_init: bool = False,\n activation_fn: str = \"relu\",\n learned_pos_embedding: bool = True,\n add_bias_kv: bool = False,\n add_zero_attn: bool = False,\n embed_scale: float = None,\n freeze_embeddings: bool = False,\n n_trans_layers_to_freeze: int = 0,\n export: bool = False,\n traceable: bool = False,\n ) -> None:\n\n super().__init__()\n self.padding_idx = padding_idx\n self.vocab_size = vocab_size\n self.dropout = dropout\n self.layerdrop = layerdrop\n self.max_seq_len = max_seq_len\n self.embedding_dim = embedding_dim\n self.num_segments = num_segments\n self.use_position_embeddings = use_position_embeddings\n self.apply_bert_init = apply_bert_init\n self.learned_pos_embedding = learned_pos_embedding\n self.traceable = traceable\n\n self.embed_tokens = nn.Embedding(\n self.vocab_size, self.embedding_dim, self.padding_idx\n )\n self.embed_scale = embed_scale\n\n self.segment_embeddings = (\n nn.Embedding(self.num_segments, self.embedding_dim, padding_idx=None)\n if self.num_segments > 0\n else None\n )\n\n self.embed_positions = (\n PositionalEmbedding(\n self.max_seq_len,\n self.embedding_dim,\n padding_idx=(self.padding_idx if offset_positions_by_padding else None),\n learned=self.learned_pos_embedding,\n )\n if self.use_position_embeddings\n else None\n )\n\n self.layers = nn.ModuleList(\n [\n TransformerSentenceEncoderLayer(\n embedding_dim=self.embedding_dim,\n ffn_embedding_dim=ffn_embedding_dim,\n num_attention_heads=num_attention_heads,\n dropout=self.dropout,\n attention_dropout=attention_dropout,\n activation_dropout=activation_dropout,\n activation_fn=activation_fn,\n add_bias_kv=add_bias_kv,\n add_zero_attn=add_zero_attn,\n export=export,\n )\n for _ in range(num_encoder_layers)\n ]\n )\n\n if encoder_normalize_before:\n self.emb_layer_norm = LayerNorm(self.embedding_dim, export=export)\n else:\n self.emb_layer_norm = None\n\n # Apply initialization of model params after building the model\n if self.apply_bert_init:\n self.apply(init_bert_params)\n\n def freeze_module_params(m):\n if m is not None:\n for p in m.parameters():\n p.requires_grad = False\n\n if freeze_embeddings:\n freeze_module_params(self.embed_tokens)\n freeze_module_params(self.segment_embeddings)\n freeze_module_params(self.embed_positions)\n freeze_module_params(self.emb_layer_norm)\n\n for layer in range(n_trans_layers_to_freeze):\n freeze_module_params(self.layers[layer])\n\n def forward(\n self,\n tokens: torch.Tensor,\n segment_labels: torch.Tensor = None,\n last_state_only: bool = False,\n positions: Optional[torch.Tensor] = None,\n ) -> Tuple[torch.Tensor, torch.Tensor]:\n\n # compute padding mask. This is needed for multi-head attention\n padding_mask = tokens.eq(self.padding_idx)\n if not self.traceable and not padding_mask.any():\n padding_mask = None\n\n x = self.embed_tokens(tokens)\n\n if self.embed_scale is not None:\n x *= self.embed_scale\n\n if self.embed_positions is not None:\n x += self.embed_positions(tokens, positions=positions)\n\n if self.segment_embeddings is not None and segment_labels is not None:\n x += self.segment_embeddings(segment_labels)\n\n if self.emb_layer_norm is not None:\n x = self.emb_layer_norm(x)\n\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n\n # account for padding while computing the representation\n if padding_mask is not None:\n x *= 1 - padding_mask.unsqueeze(-1).type_as(x)\n\n # B x T x C -> T x B x C\n x = x.transpose(0, 1)\n\n inner_states = []\n if not last_state_only:\n inner_states.append(x)\n\n for layer in self.layers:\n # add LayerDrop (see https://arxiv.org/abs/1909.11556 for description)\n dropout_probability = random.uniform(0, 1)\n if not self.training or (dropout_probability > self.layerdrop):\n x, _ = layer(x, self_attn_padding_mask=padding_mask)\n if not last_state_only:\n inner_states.append(x)\n\n # T x B x C -> B x T x C\n x = x.transpose(0, 1)\n\n sentence_rep = x[:, 0, :]\n\n if last_state_only:\n inner_states = [x]\n\n if self.traceable:\n return torch.stack(inner_states), sentence_rep\n else:\n return inner_states, sentence_rep\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/transformer_sentence_encoder_layer.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn as nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\nfrom fairseq.modules import (\n LayerNorm,\n MultiheadAttention,\n)\n\n\nclass TransformerSentenceEncoderLayer(nn.Module):\n \"\"\"\n Implements a Transformer Encoder Layer used in BERT/XLM style pre-trained\n models.\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self,\n embedding_dim: int = 768,\n ffn_embedding_dim: int = 3072,\n num_attention_heads: int = 8,\n dropout: float = 0.1,\n attention_dropout: float = 0.1,\n activation_dropout: float = 0.1,\n activation_fn: str = \"relu\",\n add_bias_kv: bool = False,\n add_zero_attn: bool = False,\n export: bool = False,\n ) -> None:\n\n super().__init__()\n # Initialize parameters\n self.embedding_dim = embedding_dim\n self.dropout = dropout\n self.activation_dropout = activation_dropout\n\n # Initialize blocks\n self.activation_fn = utils.get_activation_fn(activation_fn)\n self.self_attn = MultiheadAttention(\n self.embedding_dim,\n num_attention_heads,\n dropout=attention_dropout,\n add_bias_kv=add_bias_kv,\n add_zero_attn=add_zero_attn,\n self_attention=True,\n )\n\n # layer norm associated with the self attention layer\n self.self_attn_layer_norm = LayerNorm(self.embedding_dim, export=export)\n self.fc1 = nn.Linear(self.embedding_dim, ffn_embedding_dim)\n self.fc2 = nn.Linear(ffn_embedding_dim, self.embedding_dim)\n\n # layer norm associated with the position wise feed-forward NN\n self.final_layer_norm = LayerNorm(self.embedding_dim, export=export)\n\n def forward(\n self,\n x: torch.Tensor,\n self_attn_mask: torch.Tensor = None,\n self_attn_padding_mask: torch.Tensor = None,\n ):\n \"\"\"\n LayerNorm is applied either before or after the self-attention/ffn\n modules similar to the original Transformer imlementation.\n \"\"\"\n residual = x\n x, attn = self.self_attn(\n query=x,\n key=x,\n value=x,\n key_padding_mask=self_attn_padding_mask,\n need_weights=False,\n attn_mask=self_attn_mask,\n )\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n x = residual + x\n x = self.self_attn_layer_norm(x)\n\n residual = x\n x = self.activation_fn(self.fc1(x))\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.activation_dropout, training=self.training)\n x = self.fc2(x)\n x = F.dropout(x, p=self.dropout, training=self.training)\n x = residual + x\n x = self.final_layer_norm(x)\n return x, attn\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/unfold.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\n\ndef unfold1d(x, kernel_size, padding_l, pad_value=0):\n \"\"\"unfold T x B x C to T x B x C x K\"\"\"\n if kernel_size > 1:\n T, B, C = x.size()\n x = F.pad(\n x, (0, 0, 0, 0, padding_l, kernel_size - 1 - padding_l), value=pad_value\n )\n x = x.as_strided((T, B, C, kernel_size), (B * C, C, 1, B * C))\n else:\n x = x.unsqueeze(3)\n return x\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/modules/vggblock.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom __future__ import absolute_import, division, print_function, unicode_literals\n\nfrom collections.abc import Iterable\nfrom itertools import repeat\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn as nn\n\n\ndef _pair(v):\n if isinstance(v, Iterable):\n assert len(v) == 2, \"len(v) != 2\"\n return v\n return tuple(repeat(v, 2))\n\n\ndef infer_conv_output_dim(conv_op, input_dim, sample_inchannel):\n sample_seq_len = 200\n sample_bsz = 10\n x = torch.randn(sample_bsz, sample_inchannel, sample_seq_len, input_dim)\n # N x C x H x W\n # N: sample_bsz, C: sample_inchannel, H: sample_seq_len, W: input_dim\n x = conv_op(x)\n # N x C x H x W\n x = x.transpose(1, 2)\n # N x H x C x W\n bsz, seq = x.size()[:2]\n per_channel_dim = x.size()[3]\n # bsz: N, seq: H, CxW the rest\n return x.contiguous().view(bsz, seq, -1).size(-1), per_channel_dim\n\n\nclass VGGBlock(torch.nn.Module):\n \"\"\"\n VGG motibated cnn module https://arxiv.org/pdf/1409.1556.pdf\n\n Args:\n in_channels: (int) number of input channels (typically 1)\n out_channels: (int) number of output channels\n conv_kernel_size: convolution channels\n pooling_kernel_size: the size of the pooling window to take a max over\n num_conv_layers: (int) number of convolution layers\n input_dim: (int) input dimension\n conv_stride: the stride of the convolving kernel.\n Can be a single number or a tuple (sH, sW) Default: 1\n padding: implicit paddings on both sides of the input.\n Can be a single number or a tuple (padH, padW). Default: None\n layer_norm: (bool) if layer norm is going to be applied. Default: False\n\n Shape:\n Input: BxCxTxfeat, i.e. (batch_size, input_size, timesteps, features)\n Output: BxCxTxfeat, i.e. (batch_size, input_size, timesteps, features)\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self,\n in_channels,\n out_channels,\n conv_kernel_size,\n pooling_kernel_size,\n num_conv_layers,\n input_dim,\n conv_stride=1,\n padding=None,\n layer_norm=False,\n ):\n assert (\n input_dim is not None\n ), \"Need input_dim for LayerNorm and infer_conv_output_dim\"\n super(VGGBlock, self).__init__()\n self.in_channels = in_channels\n self.out_channels = out_channels\n self.conv_kernel_size = _pair(conv_kernel_size)\n self.pooling_kernel_size = _pair(pooling_kernel_size)\n self.num_conv_layers = num_conv_layers\n self.padding = (\n tuple(e // 2 for e in self.conv_kernel_size)\n if padding is None\n else _pair(padding)\n )\n self.conv_stride = _pair(conv_stride)\n\n self.layers = nn.ModuleList()\n for layer in range(num_conv_layers):\n conv_op = nn.Conv2d(\n in_channels if layer == 0 else out_channels,\n out_channels,\n self.conv_kernel_size,\n stride=self.conv_stride,\n padding=self.padding,\n )\n self.layers.append(conv_op)\n if layer_norm:\n conv_output_dim, per_channel_dim = infer_conv_output_dim(\n conv_op, input_dim, in_channels if layer == 0 else out_channels\n )\n self.layers.append(nn.LayerNorm(per_channel_dim))\n input_dim = per_channel_dim\n self.layers.append(nn.ReLU())\n\n if self.pooling_kernel_size is not None:\n pool_op = nn.MaxPool2d(kernel_size=self.pooling_kernel_size, ceil_mode=True)\n self.layers.append(pool_op)\n self.total_output_dim, self.output_dim = infer_conv_output_dim(\n pool_op, input_dim, out_channels\n )\n\n def forward(self, x):\n for i, _ in enumerate(self.layers):\n x = self.layers[i](x)\n return x\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/optim/__init__.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport importlib\nimport os\n\nfrom fairseq import registry\nfrom fairseq.optim.fairseq_optimizer import FairseqOptimizer\nfrom fairseq.optim.fp16_optimizer import FP16Optimizer, MemoryEfficientFP16Optimizer\nfrom fairseq.optim.bmuf import FairseqBMUF # noqa\n\n\n__all__ = [\n \"FairseqOptimizer\",\n \"FP16Optimizer\",\n \"MemoryEfficientFP16Optimizer\",\n]\n\n\nbuild_optimizer, register_optimizer, OPTIMIZER_REGISTRY = registry.setup_registry(\n \"--optimizer\", base_class=FairseqOptimizer, default=\"nag\",\n)\n\n\n# automatically import any Python files in the optim/ directory\nfor file in os.listdir(os.path.dirname(__file__)):\n if file.endswith(\".py\") and not file.startswith(\"_\"):\n module = file[: file.find(\".py\")]\n importlib.import_module(\"fairseq.optim.\" + module)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/optim/adadelta.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch.optim\n\nfrom . import FairseqOptimizer, register_optimizer\n\n\n@register_optimizer(\"adadelta\")\nclass Adadelta(FairseqOptimizer):\n def __init__(self, args, params):\n super().__init__(args)\n self._optimizer = torch.optim.Adadelta(params, **self.optimizer_config)\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add optimizer-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument('--adadelta-rho', type=float, default=0.9, metavar='RHO',\n help='coefficient used for computing a running average of squared gradients')\n parser.add_argument('--adadelta-eps', type=float, default=1e-6, metavar='EPS',\n help='term added to the denominator to improve numerical stability')\n parser.add_argument('--weight-decay', '--wd', default=0.0, type=float, metavar='WD',\n help='weight decay')\n parser.add_argument('--anneal-eps', action='store_true', help='flag to anneal eps')\n # fmt: on\n\n @property\n def optimizer_config(self):\n \"\"\"\n Return a kwarg dictionary that will be used to override optimizer\n args stored in checkpoints. This allows us to load a checkpoint and\n resume training using a different set of optimizer args, e.g., with a\n different learning rate.\n \"\"\"\n return {\n \"lr\": self.args.lr[0],\n \"rho\": self.args.adadelta_rho,\n \"eps\": self.args.adadelta_eps,\n \"weight_decay\": self.args.weight_decay,\n }\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/optim/adafactor.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport math\nimport torch\nimport torch.optim\n\nfrom . import FairseqOptimizer, register_optimizer\n\n\n@register_optimizer(\"adafactor\")\nclass FairseqAdafactor(FairseqOptimizer):\n def __init__(self, args, params):\n super().__init__(args)\n self._optimizer = Adafactor(params, **self.optimizer_config)\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add optimizer-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument('--adafactor-eps', default='(1e-30, 1e-3)', metavar=\"E\",\n help='epsilons for Adafactor optimizer')\n parser.add_argument('--clip-threshold', type=float, default=1.0, metavar=\"C\",\n help='threshold for clipping update root mean square')\n parser.add_argument('--decay-rate', type=float, default=-0.8, metavar=\"D\",\n help='decay rate of the second moment estimator')\n parser.add_argument('--beta1', type=float, default=None, metavar=\"B\",\n help='beta for first moment estimator. Optional')\n parser.add_argument('--scale-parameter', action='store_true',\n help='scale learning rate by root mean square of parameter.')\n parser.add_argument('--weight-decay', '--wd', default=0.0, type=float, metavar='WD',\n help='weight decay')\n parser.add_argument('--warmup-init', action='store_true',\n help='use relative step for warm-up learning rate schedule')\n parser.add_argument('--relative-step', action='store_true',\n help='set learning rate to inverse square root of timestep.'\n 'If false, external learning rate applied')\n # fmt: on\n\n @property\n def optimizer_config(self):\n \"\"\"\n Return a kwarg dictionary that will be used to override optimizer\n args stored in checkpoints. This allows us to load a checkpoint and\n resume training using a different set of optimizer args, e.g., with a\n different learning rate.\n Note : Convergence issues empirically observed with fp16 on.\n Might require search for appropriate configuration.\n \"\"\"\n return {\n \"lr\": self.args.lr[0],\n \"eps\": eval(self.args.adafactor_eps),\n \"clip_threshold\": self.args.clip_threshold,\n \"beta1\": self.args.beta1,\n \"decay_rate\": self.args.decay_rate,\n \"scale_parameter\": self.args.scale_parameter,\n \"weight_decay\": self.args.weight_decay,\n \"relative_step\": self.args.relative_step,\n \"warmup_init\": self.args.warmup_init,\n }\n\n\nclass Adafactor(torch.optim.Optimizer):\n \"\"\"Implements Adafactor algorithm.\n\n This implementation is based on:\n `Adafactor: Adaptive Learning Rates with Sublinear Memory Cost`\n (see https://arxiv.org/abs/1804.04235)\n\n Arguments:\n params (iterable): iterable of parameters to optimize or dicts defining\n parameter groups\n lr (float, optional): external learning rate (default: None)\n eps (tuple[float, float]): regularization constans for square gradient\n and parameter scale respectively (default: (1e-30, 1e-3))\n clip_threshold (float): threshold of root mean square of\n final gradient update (default: 1.0)\n decay_rate (float): coefficient used to compute running averages of square\n gradient (default: -0.8)\n beta1 (float): coefficient used for computing running averages of gradient\n (default: None)\n weight_decay (float, optional): weight decay (L2 penalty) (default: 0)\n scale_parameter (bool): if true, learning rate is scaled by root mean square of\n parameter (default: True)\n relative_step (bool): if true, time-dependent learning rate is computed\n instead of external learning rate (default: True)\n warmup_init (bool): time-dependent learning rate computation depends on\n whether warm-up initialization is being used (default: False)\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self,\n params,\n lr=None,\n eps=(1e-30, 1e-3),\n clip_threshold=1.0,\n decay_rate=-0.8,\n beta1=None,\n weight_decay=0.0,\n scale_parameter=True,\n relative_step=True,\n warmup_init=False,\n ):\n defaults = dict(\n lr=lr,\n eps=eps,\n clip_threshold=clip_threshold,\n decay_rate=decay_rate,\n beta1=beta1,\n weight_decay=weight_decay,\n scale_parameter=scale_parameter,\n relative_step=relative_step,\n warmup_init=warmup_init,\n )\n super(Adafactor, self).__init__(params, defaults)\n\n @property\n def supports_memory_efficient_fp16(self):\n return True\n\n def _get_lr(self, param_group, param_state):\n rel_step_sz = param_group[\"lr\"]\n if param_group[\"relative_step\"]:\n min_step = (\n 1e-6 * param_state[\"step\"] if param_group[\"warmup_init\"] else 1e-2\n )\n rel_step_sz = min(min_step, 1.0 / math.sqrt(param_state[\"step\"]))\n param_scale = 1.0\n if param_group[\"scale_parameter\"]:\n param_scale = max(param_group[\"eps\"][1], param_state[\"RMS\"])\n return param_scale * rel_step_sz\n\n def _get_options(self, param_group, param_shape):\n factored = len(param_shape) >= 2\n use_first_moment = param_group[\"beta1\"] is not None\n return factored, use_first_moment\n\n def _rms(self, tensor):\n return tensor.norm(2) / (tensor.numel() ** 0.5)\n\n def _approx_sq_grad(self, exp_avg_sq_row, exp_avg_sq_col, output):\n r_factor = (\n (exp_avg_sq_row / exp_avg_sq_row.mean(dim=-1).unsqueeze(-1))\n .rsqrt_()\n .unsqueeze(-1)\n )\n c_factor = exp_avg_sq_col.unsqueeze(-2).rsqrt()\n torch.mul(r_factor, c_factor, out=output)\n\n def step(self, closure=None):\n \"\"\"Performs a single optimization step.\n\n Arguments:\n closure (callable, optional): A closure that reevaluates the model\n and returns the loss.\n \"\"\"\n loss = None\n if closure is not None:\n loss = closure()\n\n for group in self.param_groups:\n for p in group[\"params\"]:\n if p.grad is None:\n continue\n grad = p.grad.data.float()\n if grad.is_sparse:\n raise RuntimeError(\"Adafactor does not support sparse gradients.\")\n\n state = self.state[p]\n grad_shape = grad.shape\n\n factored, use_first_moment = self._get_options(group, grad_shape)\n # State Initialization\n if len(state) == 0:\n state[\"step\"] = 0\n\n if use_first_moment:\n # Exponential moving average of gradient values\n state[\"exp_avg\"] = torch.zeros_like(grad)\n if factored:\n state[\"exp_avg_sq_row\"] = torch.zeros(grad_shape[:-1]).type_as(\n grad\n )\n state[\"exp_avg_sq_col\"] = torch.zeros(\n grad_shape[:-2] + grad_shape[-1:]\n ).type_as(grad)\n else:\n state[\"exp_avg_sq\"] = torch.zeros_like(grad)\n\n state[\"RMS\"] = 0\n else:\n if use_first_moment:\n state[\"exp_avg\"] = state[\"exp_avg\"].type_as(grad)\n if factored:\n state[\"exp_avg_sq_row\"] = state[\"exp_avg_sq_row\"].type_as(grad)\n state[\"exp_avg_sq_col\"] = state[\"exp_avg_sq_col\"].type_as(grad)\n else:\n state[\"exp_avg_sq\"] = state[\"exp_avg_sq\"].type_as(grad)\n\n p_data_fp32 = p.data.float()\n\n state[\"step\"] += 1\n state[\"RMS\"] = self._rms(p_data_fp32)\n group[\"lr\"] = self._get_lr(group, state)\n\n beta2t = 1.0 - math.pow(state[\"step\"], group[\"decay_rate\"])\n update = (grad ** 2) + group[\"eps\"][0]\n if factored:\n exp_avg_sq_row = state[\"exp_avg_sq_row\"]\n exp_avg_sq_col = state[\"exp_avg_sq_col\"]\n\n exp_avg_sq_row.mul_(beta2t).add_(1.0 - beta2t, update.mean(dim=-1))\n exp_avg_sq_col.mul_(beta2t).add_(1.0 - beta2t, update.mean(dim=-2))\n\n # Approximation of exponential moving average of square of gradient\n self._approx_sq_grad(exp_avg_sq_row, exp_avg_sq_col, update)\n update.mul_(grad)\n else:\n exp_avg_sq = state[\"exp_avg_sq\"]\n\n exp_avg_sq.mul_(beta2t).add_(1.0 - beta2t, update)\n torch.rsqrt(exp_avg_sq, out=update).mul_(grad)\n\n update.div_(max(1.0, self._rms(update) / group[\"clip_threshold\"]))\n update.mul_(group[\"lr\"])\n\n if use_first_moment:\n exp_avg = state[\"exp_avg\"]\n exp_avg.mul_(group[\"beta1\"]).add_(1 - group[\"beta1\"], update)\n update = exp_avg\n\n if group[\"weight_decay\"] != 0:\n p_data_fp32.add_(-group[\"weight_decay\"] * group[\"lr\"], p_data_fp32)\n\n p_data_fp32.add_(-update)\n\n p.data.copy_(p_data_fp32)\n\n return loss\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/optim/adagrad.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch.optim\n\nfrom . import FairseqOptimizer, register_optimizer\n\n\n@register_optimizer(\"adagrad\")\nclass Adagrad(FairseqOptimizer):\n def __init__(self, args, params):\n super().__init__(args)\n self._optimizer = torch.optim.Adagrad(params, **self.optimizer_config)\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add optimizer-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument('--weight-decay', '--wd', default=0.0, type=float, metavar='WD',\n help='weight decay')\n # fmt: on\n\n @property\n def optimizer_config(self):\n \"\"\"\n Return a kwarg dictionary that will be used to override optimizer\n args stored in checkpoints. This allows us to load a checkpoint and\n resume training using a different set of optimizer args, e.g., with a\n different learning rate.\n \"\"\"\n return {\n \"lr\": self.args.lr[0],\n \"weight_decay\": self.args.weight_decay,\n }\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/optim/adam.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport math\nimport types\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.optim\nimport torch.distributed as dist\n\nfrom . import FairseqOptimizer, register_optimizer\n\n\n@register_optimizer(\"adam\")\nclass FairseqAdam(FairseqOptimizer):\n \"\"\"Adam optimizer for fairseq.\n\n Important note: this optimizer corresponds to the \"AdamW\" variant of\n Adam in its weight decay behavior. As such, it is most closely\n analogous to torch.optim.AdamW from PyTorch.\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, args, params):\n super().__init__(args)\n if torch.cuda.is_available():\n try:\n from apex.optimizers import FusedAdam as _FusedAdam # noqa\n\n self._optimizer = FusedAdam(params, **self.optimizer_config)\n except ImportError:\n self._optimizer = Adam(params, **self.optimizer_config)\n else:\n self._optimizer = Adam(params, **self.optimizer_config)\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add optimizer-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument('--adam-betas', default='(0.9, 0.999)', metavar='B',\n help='betas for Adam optimizer')\n parser.add_argument('--adam-eps', type=float, default=1e-8, metavar='D',\n help='epsilon for Adam optimizer')\n parser.add_argument('--weight-decay', '--wd', default=0.0, type=float, metavar='WD',\n help='weight decay')\n # fmt: on\n\n @property\n def optimizer_config(self):\n \"\"\"\n Return a kwarg dictionary that will be used to override optimizer\n args stored in checkpoints. This allows us to load a checkpoint and\n resume training using a different set of optimizer args, e.g., with a\n different learning rate.\n \"\"\"\n return {\n \"lr\": self.args.lr[0],\n \"betas\": eval(self.args.adam_betas),\n \"eps\": self.args.adam_eps,\n \"weight_decay\": self.args.weight_decay,\n }\n\n def average_params(self):\n \"\"\"Reduce Params is only used during BMUF distributed training.\"\"\"\n state_dict = self.optimizer.state_dict()\n total_gpus = float(dist.get_world_size())\n\n for _, value in state_dict[\"state\"].items():\n value[\"exp_avg\"] /= total_gpus\n value[\"exp_avg_sq\"] /= total_gpus\n dist.all_reduce(value[\"exp_avg\"], op=dist.ReduceOp.SUM)\n dist.all_reduce(value[\"exp_avg_sq\"], op=dist.ReduceOp.SUM)\n\n\nclass Adam(torch.optim.Optimizer):\n \"\"\"Implements Adam algorithm.\n\n This implementation is modified from torch.optim.Adam based on:\n `Fixed Weight Decay Regularization in Adam`\n (see https://arxiv.org/abs/1711.05101)\n\n It has been proposed in `Adam: A Method for Stochastic Optimization`_.\n\n Arguments:\n params (iterable): iterable of parameters to optimize or dicts defining\n parameter groups\n lr (float, optional): learning rate (default: 1e-3)\n betas (Tuple[float, float], optional): coefficients used for computing\n running averages of gradient and its square (default: (0.9, 0.999))\n eps (float, optional): term added to the denominator to improve\n numerical stability (default: 1e-8)\n weight_decay (float, optional): weight decay (L2 penalty) (default: 0)\n amsgrad (boolean, optional): whether to use the AMSGrad variant of this\n algorithm from the paper `On the Convergence of Adam and Beyond`_\n\n .. _Adam\\: A Method for Stochastic Optimization:\n https://arxiv.org/abs/1412.6980\n .. _On the Convergence of Adam and Beyond:\n https://openreview.net/forum?id=ryQu7f-RZ\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self,\n params,\n lr=1e-3,\n betas=(0.9, 0.999),\n eps=1e-8,\n weight_decay=0,\n amsgrad=False,\n ):\n defaults = dict(\n lr=lr, betas=betas, eps=eps, weight_decay=weight_decay, amsgrad=amsgrad\n )\n super(Adam, self).__init__(params, defaults)\n\n @property\n def supports_memory_efficient_fp16(self):\n return True\n\n def step(self, closure=None):\n \"\"\"Performs a single optimization step.\n\n Arguments:\n closure (callable, optional): A closure that reevaluates the model\n and returns the loss.\n \"\"\"\n loss = None\n if closure is not None:\n loss = closure()\n\n for group in self.param_groups:\n for p in group[\"params\"]:\n if p.grad is None:\n continue\n grad = p.grad.data.float()\n if grad.is_sparse:\n raise RuntimeError(\n \"Adam does not support sparse gradients, please consider SparseAdam instead\"\n )\n amsgrad = group[\"amsgrad\"]\n\n p_data_fp32 = p.data.float()\n\n state = self.state[p]\n\n # State initialization\n if len(state) == 0:\n state[\"step\"] = 0\n # Exponential moving average of gradient values\n state[\"exp_avg\"] = torch.zeros_like(p_data_fp32)\n # Exponential moving average of squared gradient values\n state[\"exp_avg_sq\"] = torch.zeros_like(p_data_fp32)\n if amsgrad:\n # Maintains max of all exp. moving avg. of sq. grad. values\n state[\"max_exp_avg_sq\"] = torch.zeros_like(p_data_fp32)\n else:\n state[\"exp_avg\"] = state[\"exp_avg\"].type_as(p_data_fp32)\n state[\"exp_avg_sq\"] = state[\"exp_avg_sq\"].type_as(p_data_fp32)\n if amsgrad:\n state[\"max_exp_avg_sq\"] = state[\"max_exp_avg_sq\"].type_as(\n p_data_fp32\n )\n\n exp_avg, exp_avg_sq = state[\"exp_avg\"], state[\"exp_avg_sq\"]\n if amsgrad:\n max_exp_avg_sq = state[\"max_exp_avg_sq\"]\n beta1, beta2 = group[\"betas\"]\n\n state[\"step\"] += 1\n\n # Decay the first and second moment running average coefficient\n exp_avg.mul_(beta1).add_(1 - beta1, grad)\n exp_avg_sq.mul_(beta2).addcmul_(1 - beta2, grad, grad)\n if amsgrad:\n # Maintains the maximum of all 2nd moment running avg. till now\n torch.max(max_exp_avg_sq, exp_avg_sq, out=max_exp_avg_sq)\n # Use the max. for normalizing running avg. of gradient\n denom = max_exp_avg_sq.sqrt().add_(group[\"eps\"])\n else:\n denom = exp_avg_sq.sqrt().add_(group[\"eps\"])\n\n bias_correction1 = 1 - beta1 ** state[\"step\"]\n bias_correction2 = 1 - beta2 ** state[\"step\"]\n step_size = group[\"lr\"] * math.sqrt(bias_correction2) / bias_correction1\n\n if group[\"weight_decay\"] != 0:\n p_data_fp32.add_(-group[\"weight_decay\"] * group[\"lr\"], p_data_fp32)\n\n p_data_fp32.addcdiv_(-step_size, exp_avg, denom)\n\n p.data.copy_(p_data_fp32)\n\n return loss\n\n\nclass FusedAdam(torch.optim.Optimizer):\n \"\"\"\n Implements Adam algorithm. Currently GPU-only. Requires Apex to be installed via\n ``python setup.py install --cuda_ext --cpp_ext``.\n\n It has been proposed in `Adam: A Method for Stochastic Optimization`_.\n\n Compared to the original version in Apex, the fairseq version casts grads\n and params to FP32 internally to support ``--memory-efficient-fp16``.\n\n Arguments:\n params (iterable): iterable of parameters to optimize or dicts defining\n parameter groups.\n lr (float, optional): learning rate. (default: 1e-3)\n betas (Tuple[float, float], optional): coefficients used for computing\n running averages of gradient and its square. (default: (0.9, 0.999))\n eps (float, optional): term added to the denominator to improve\n numerical stability. (default: 1e-8)\n weight_decay (float, optional): weight decay (L2 penalty) (default: 0)\n amsgrad (boolean, optional): whether to use the AMSGrad variant of this\n algorithm from the paper `On the Convergence of Adam and Beyond`_\n (default: False) NOT SUPPORTED in FusedAdam!\n eps_inside_sqrt (boolean, optional): in the 'update parameters' step,\n adds eps to the bias-corrected second moment estimate before\n evaluating square root instead of adding it to the square root of\n second moment estimate as in the original paper. (default: False)\n .. _Adam\\: A Method for Stochastic Optimization:\n https://arxiv.org/abs/1412.6980\n .. _On the Convergence of Adam and Beyond:\n https://openreview.net/forum?id=ryQu7f-RZ\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self,\n params,\n lr=1e-3,\n bias_correction=True,\n betas=(0.9, 0.999),\n eps=1e-8,\n eps_inside_sqrt=False,\n weight_decay=0.0,\n max_grad_norm=0.0,\n amsgrad=False,\n ):\n global fused_adam_cuda\n import importlib\n\n fused_adam_cuda = importlib.import_module(\"fused_adam_cuda\")\n\n if amsgrad:\n raise RuntimeError(\"FusedAdam does not support the AMSGrad variant.\")\n defaults = dict(\n lr=lr,\n bias_correction=bias_correction,\n betas=betas,\n eps=eps,\n weight_decay=weight_decay,\n max_grad_norm=max_grad_norm,\n )\n super(FusedAdam, self).__init__(params, defaults)\n self.eps_mode = 0 if eps_inside_sqrt else 1\n\n @property\n def supports_memory_efficient_fp16(self):\n return True\n\n def step(self, closure=None, grads=None, scale=1.0, grad_norms=None):\n \"\"\"Performs a single optimization step.\n Arguments:\n closure (callable, optional): A closure that reevaluates the model\n and returns the loss.\n grads (list of tensors, optional): weight gradient to use for the\n optimizer update. If gradients have type torch.half, parameters\n are expected to be in type torch.float. (default: None)\n output params (list of tensors, optional): A reduced precision copy\n of the updated weights written out in addition to the regular\n updated weights. Have to be of same type as gradients. (default: None)\n scale (float, optional): factor to divide gradient tensor values\n by before applying to weights. (default: 1)\n \"\"\"\n loss = None\n if closure is not None:\n loss = closure()\n\n if grads is None:\n grads_group = [None] * len(self.param_groups)\n # backward compatibility\n # assuming a list/generator of parameter means single group\n elif isinstance(grads, types.GeneratorType):\n grads_group = [grads]\n elif type(grads[0]) != list:\n grads_group = [grads]\n else:\n grads_group = grads\n\n if grad_norms is None:\n grad_norms = [None] * len(self.param_groups)\n\n for group, grads_this_group, grad_norm in zip(\n self.param_groups, grads_group, grad_norms\n ):\n if grads_this_group is None:\n grads_this_group = [None] * len(group[\"params\"])\n\n # compute combined scale factor for this group\n combined_scale = scale\n if group[\"max_grad_norm\"] > 0:\n # norm is in fact norm*scale\n clip = ((grad_norm / scale) + 1e-6) / group[\"max_grad_norm\"]\n if clip > 1:\n combined_scale = clip * scale\n\n bias_correction = 1 if group[\"bias_correction\"] else 0\n\n for p, grad in zip(group[\"params\"], grads_this_group):\n # note: p.grad should not ever be set for correct operation of mixed precision optimizer that sometimes sends None gradients\n if p.grad is None and grad is None:\n continue\n if grad is None:\n grad = p.grad.data\n if grad.is_sparse:\n raise RuntimeError(\n \"FusedAdam does not support sparse gradients, please consider SparseAdam instead\"\n )\n\n p_data_fp32 = p.data.float()\n\n state = self.state[p]\n\n # State initialization\n if len(state) == 0:\n state[\"step\"] = 0\n # Exponential moving average of gradient values\n state[\"exp_avg\"] = torch.zeros_like(p_data_fp32)\n # Exponential moving average of squared gradient values\n state[\"exp_avg_sq\"] = torch.zeros_like(p_data_fp32)\n else:\n state[\"exp_avg\"] = state[\"exp_avg\"].type_as(p_data_fp32)\n state[\"exp_avg_sq\"] = state[\"exp_avg_sq\"].type_as(p_data_fp32)\n\n exp_avg = state[\"exp_avg\"]\n exp_avg_sq = state[\"exp_avg_sq\"]\n beta1, beta2 = group[\"betas\"]\n\n state[\"step\"] += 1\n\n out_p = p.data\n fused_adam_cuda.adam(\n p_data_fp32,\n out_p,\n exp_avg,\n exp_avg_sq,\n grad,\n group[\"lr\"],\n beta1,\n beta2,\n group[\"eps\"],\n combined_scale,\n state[\"step\"],\n self.eps_mode,\n bias_correction,\n group[\"weight_decay\"],\n )\n\n return loss\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/optim/adamax.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.optim\n\nfrom . import FairseqOptimizer, register_optimizer\n\n\n@register_optimizer(\"adamax\")\nclass FairseqAdamax(FairseqOptimizer):\n def __init__(self, args, params):\n super().__init__(args)\n self._optimizer = Adamax(params, **self.optimizer_config)\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add optimizer-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument('--adamax-betas', default='(0.9, 0.999)', metavar='B',\n help='betas for Adam optimizer')\n parser.add_argument('--adamax-eps', type=float, default=1e-8, metavar='D',\n help='epsilon for Adam optimizer')\n parser.add_argument('--weight-decay', '--wd', default=0.0, type=float, metavar='WD',\n help='weight decay')\n parser.add_argument('--no-bias-correction', default=False, action='store_true',\n help='disable bias correction')\n # fmt: on\n\n @property\n def optimizer_config(self):\n \"\"\"\n Return a kwarg dictionary that will be used to override optimizer\n args stored in checkpoints. This allows us to load a checkpoint and\n resume training using a different set of optimizer args, e.g., with a\n different learning rate.\n \"\"\"\n return {\n \"lr\": self.args.lr[0],\n \"betas\": eval(self.args.adamax_betas),\n \"eps\": self.args.adamax_eps,\n \"weight_decay\": self.args.weight_decay,\n \"bias_correction\": not self.args.no_bias_correction,\n }\n\n\nclass Adamax(torch.optim.Optimizer):\n \"\"\"Implements Adamax algorithm (a variant of Adam based on infinity norm).\n\n It has been proposed in `Adam: A Method for Stochastic Optimization`__.\n\n Compared to the version in PyTorch, this version implements a fix for weight decay.\n\n Arguments:\n params (iterable): iterable of parameters to optimize or dicts defining\n parameter groups\n lr (float, optional): learning rate (default: 2e-3)\n betas (Tuple[float, float], optional): coefficients used for computing\n running averages of gradient and its square\n eps (float, optional): term added to the denominator to improve\n numerical stability (default: 1e-8)\n weight_decay (float, optional): weight decay (L2 penalty) (default: 0)\n bias_correction (bool, optional): enable bias correction (default: True)\n\n __ https://arxiv.org/abs/1412.6980\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self,\n params,\n lr=2e-3,\n betas=(0.9, 0.999),\n eps=1e-8,\n weight_decay=0,\n bias_correction=True,\n ):\n if not 0.0 <= lr:\n raise ValueError(\"Invalid learning rate: {}\".format(lr))\n if not 0.0 <= eps:\n raise ValueError(\"Invalid epsilon value: {}\".format(eps))\n if not 0.0 <= betas[0] < 1.0:\n raise ValueError(\"Invalid beta parameter at index 0: {}\".format(betas[0]))\n if not 0.0 <= betas[1] < 1.0:\n raise ValueError(\"Invalid beta parameter at index 1: {}\".format(betas[1]))\n if not 0.0 <= weight_decay:\n raise ValueError(\"Invalid weight_decay value: {}\".format(weight_decay))\n\n defaults = dict(\n lr=lr,\n betas=betas,\n eps=eps,\n weight_decay=weight_decay,\n bias_correction=bias_correction,\n )\n super(Adamax, self).__init__(params, defaults)\n\n @property\n def supports_memory_efficient_fp16(self):\n return True\n\n def step(self, closure=None):\n \"\"\"Performs a single optimization step.\n\n Arguments:\n closure (callable, optional): A closure that reevaluates the model\n and returns the loss.\n \"\"\"\n loss = None\n if closure is not None:\n loss = closure()\n\n for group in self.param_groups:\n for p in group[\"params\"]:\n if p.grad is None:\n continue\n grad = p.grad.data.float()\n if grad.is_sparse:\n raise RuntimeError(\"Adamax does not support sparse gradients\")\n\n p_data_fp32 = p.data.float()\n\n state = self.state[p]\n\n # State initialization\n if len(state) == 0:\n state[\"step\"] = 0\n state[\"exp_avg\"] = torch.zeros_like(p_data_fp32)\n state[\"exp_inf\"] = torch.zeros_like(p_data_fp32)\n else:\n state[\"exp_avg\"] = state[\"exp_avg\"].type_as(p_data_fp32)\n state[\"exp_inf\"] = state[\"exp_inf\"].type_as(p_data_fp32)\n\n exp_avg, exp_inf = state[\"exp_avg\"], state[\"exp_inf\"]\n beta1, beta2 = group[\"betas\"]\n eps = group[\"eps\"]\n\n state[\"step\"] += 1\n\n # Update biased first moment estimate.\n exp_avg.mul_(beta1).add_(1 - beta1, grad)\n\n # Update the exponentially weighted infinity norm.\n torch.max(\n exp_inf.mul_(beta2), grad.abs_(), out=exp_inf,\n )\n\n step_size = group[\"lr\"]\n if group[\"bias_correction\"]:\n bias_correction = 1 - beta1 ** state[\"step\"]\n step_size /= bias_correction\n\n if group[\"weight_decay\"] != 0:\n p_data_fp32.add_(-group[\"weight_decay\"] * group[\"lr\"], p_data_fp32)\n\n p_data_fp32.addcdiv_(-step_size, exp_avg, exp_inf.add(eps))\n\n p.data.copy_(p_data_fp32)\n\n return loss\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/optim/bmuf.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.distributed as dist\n\nfrom . import FairseqOptimizer\n\n\nclass FairseqBMUF(FairseqOptimizer):\n \"\"\"\n Implements incremental block distributed data parallelism similar to\n https://ieeexplore.ieee.org/document/7472805\n\n Paper title: Scalable training of deep learning machines by incremental\n block training with intra-block parallel optimization and blockwise\n model-update filtering\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, args, optimizer):\n\n super().__init__(args)\n self._optimizer = optimizer\n self._num_updates = 0\n self.sync_iter = self.args.global_sync_iter\n self.block_momentum = self.args.block_momentum\n self.block_lr = self.args.block_lr\n self._reset_local_data()\n self.warmup_iteration = self.args.warmup_iterations\n self.use_nbm = self.args.use_nbm\n self.initial_state = self._optimizer.state_dict()\n self.average_sync = self.args.average_sync\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add optimizer-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--block-lr\", default=1, type=float, help=\"block learning rate for bmuf\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--block-momentum\",\n default=0.875,\n type=float,\n help=\"block momentum for bmuf\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--global-sync-iter\",\n default=50,\n type=int,\n help=\"Iteration for syncing global model\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--warmup-iterations\",\n default=500,\n type=int,\n help=\"warmup iterations for model to broadcast\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--use-nbm\",\n default=True,\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"Specify whether you want to use classical BM / Nesterov BM\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--average-sync\",\n default=True,\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"Specify whether you want to average the local momentum after each sync\",\n )\n\n @property\n def optimizer(self):\n return self._optimizer.optimizer\n\n @property\n def optimizer_config(self):\n return self._optimizer.optimizer_config\n\n def get_lr(self):\n return self._optimizer.get_lr()\n\n def set_lr(self, lr):\n self._optimizer.set_lr(lr)\n\n def state_dict(self):\n return self._optimizer.state_dict()\n\n def load_state_dict(self, state_dict, optimizer_overrides=None):\n self._optimizer.load_state_dict(state_dict, optimizer_overrides)\n\n def multiply_grads(self, c):\n \"\"\"Multiplies grads by a constant *c*.\"\"\"\n self._optimizer.multiply_grads(c)\n\n def clip_grad_norm(self, max_norm):\n \"\"\"Clips gradient norm.\"\"\"\n return self._optimizer.clip_grad_norm(max_norm)\n\n def average_params(self):\n self._optimizer.average_params()\n\n def _block_sync(self):\n # Update the global model using local models from all GPUs\n # (Step-1) Calculate grad between previously synced model and\n # currrent local model\n if self.block_momentum != 0:\n self._calc_grad()\n\n # (Step-2) Average gradient from all GPUs\n self._avg_grad_from_all_gpus()\n\n # (Step-3) Calculate global momentum and update the global model\n if self.block_momentum != 0:\n self._update_global_model()\n\n # (Step-4) Average local optimizer params\n if self.average_sync:\n self.average_params()\n\n def _is_warmup_end(self):\n # Check whether train iterations is equal to warmup iter\n if self.get_num_updates() == self.warmup_iteration:\n return True\n return False\n\n def _is_bmuf_iter(self):\n # Check whether train iterations is equal to bmuf sync iter\n if (self.get_num_updates() > self.warmup_iteration) and (\n self.get_num_updates() % self.sync_iter == 0\n ):\n return True\n return False\n\n def _warmup_sync(self, root_rank=0):\n # Broadcast the local model to all gpus\n for param in self.params:\n dist.broadcast(param.data, src=root_rank)\n\n # Update local optimizer state\n if self.average_sync:\n self._optimizer.average_params()\n else:\n self._optimizer.load_state_dict(self.initial_state)\n\n self._reset_local_data()\n\n def step(self, closure=None):\n \"\"\"Performs a single optimization step.\"\"\"\n self._optimizer.step(closure)\n self.set_num_updates(self.get_num_updates() + 1)\n if self._is_warmup_end():\n self._warmup_sync()\n elif self._is_bmuf_iter():\n self._block_sync()\n\n def zero_grad(self):\n \"\"\"Clears the gradients of all optimized parameters.\"\"\"\n self._optimizer.zero_grad()\n\n def get_num_updates(self):\n \"\"\"Get the number of parameters updates.\"\"\"\n return self._num_updates\n\n def set_num_updates(self, num_updates):\n \"\"\"Set the number of parameters updates.\"\"\"\n self._num_updates = num_updates\n\n @torch.no_grad()\n def _reset_local_data(self):\n # (Step-0) Initialize global momentum parameters and store global copy on each gpu\n self.global_params = [torch.zeros_like(p.data) for p in self.params]\n self.smoothed_grads = [p.data.new_zeros(p.data.size()) for p in self.params]\n self.grads = [p.data.new_zeros(p.data.size()) for p in self.params]\n\n # saving the global model locally for calculating gradient during bmuf sync\n for param, global_param in zip(self.params, self.global_params):\n global_param.copy_(param.data)\n\n @torch.no_grad()\n def _calc_grad(self):\n # global_params is basically the global copy from the previously finished\n # synchronisation. param.data is local parameter after block_sync_freq\n # for the local gpu. so grad is difference between previously synced\n # model and currrent local model.\n for index, (param, global_param) in enumerate(\n zip(self.params, self.global_params)\n ):\n self.grads[index] = global_param - param.data\n\n def _avg_grad_from_all_gpus(self):\n for index, param in enumerate(self.params):\n sync_para = param.data if self.block_momentum == 0 else self.grads[index]\n sync_para /= float(dist.get_world_size())\n dist.all_reduce(sync_para, op=dist.ReduceOp.SUM)\n\n @torch.no_grad()\n def _update_global_model(self):\n for index, (param, global_param, smoothed_grad, grad) in enumerate(\n zip(\n self.params,\n self.global_params,\n self.smoothed_grads,\n # all gpus would share the same value of smoothed_grad, since it is\n # always computed on synchronized gradients.\n self.grads,\n )\n ):\n # global_param is basically last syncrhornized parameter. though\n # smoothed_grad is local, all processes will have same value of\n # smoothed_grad and hence param is globally synchronized copy.\n # smoothed_grad(t) = BM * smoothed_grad(t-1) + BM_lr * grad(t)\n smoothed_grad = self.block_momentum * smoothed_grad + self.block_lr * grad\n param.data.copy_(global_param - smoothed_grad)\n\n # A Nesterov momentum here is to do a partial weight update before\n # calculating the gradient\n if self.use_nbm:\n param.data.copy_(param.data - self.block_momentum * smoothed_grad)\n\n # backup for the next synchronization.\n self.smoothed_grads[index] = smoothed_grad\n global_param.copy_(param.data)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/optim/fairseq_optimizer.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport math\n\nimport torch\n\n\nclass FairseqOptimizer(object):\n def __init__(self, args):\n super().__init__()\n self.args = args\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add optimizer-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n pass\n\n @property\n def optimizer(self):\n \"\"\"Return a torch.optim.optimizer.Optimizer instance.\"\"\"\n if not hasattr(self, \"_optimizer\"):\n raise NotImplementedError\n if not isinstance(self._optimizer, torch.optim.Optimizer):\n raise ValueError(\"_optimizer must be an instance of torch.optim.Optimizer\")\n return self._optimizer\n\n @property\n def optimizer_config(self):\n \"\"\"\n Return a kwarg dictionary that will be used to override optimizer\n args stored in checkpoints. This allows us to load a checkpoint and\n resume training using a different set of optimizer args, e.g., with a\n different learning rate.\n \"\"\"\n raise NotImplementedError\n\n @property\n def params(self):\n \"\"\"Return an iterable of the parameters held by the optimizer.\"\"\"\n for param_group in self.optimizer.param_groups:\n for p in param_group[\"params\"]:\n yield p\n\n def __getstate__(self):\n return self._optimizer.__getstate__()\n\n def get_lr(self):\n \"\"\"Return the current learning rate.\"\"\"\n return self.optimizer.param_groups[0][\"lr\"]\n\n def set_lr(self, lr):\n \"\"\"Set the learning rate.\"\"\"\n for param_group in self.optimizer.param_groups:\n param_group[\"lr\"] = lr\n\n def state_dict(self):\n \"\"\"Return the optimizer's state dict.\"\"\"\n return self.optimizer.state_dict()\n\n def load_state_dict(self, state_dict, optimizer_overrides=None):\n \"\"\"Load an optimizer state dict.\n\n In general we should prefer the configuration of the existing optimizer\n instance (e.g., learning rate) over that found in the state_dict. This\n allows us to resume training from a checkpoint using a new set of\n optimizer args.\n \"\"\"\n self.optimizer.load_state_dict(state_dict)\n\n if optimizer_overrides is not None and len(optimizer_overrides) > 0:\n # override learning rate, momentum, etc. with latest values\n for group in self.optimizer.param_groups:\n group.update(optimizer_overrides)\n\n def backward(self, loss):\n \"\"\"Computes the sum of gradients of the given tensor w.r.t. graph leaves.\"\"\"\n loss.backward()\n\n def multiply_grads(self, c):\n \"\"\"Multiplies grads by a constant *c*.\"\"\"\n for p in self.params:\n if p.grad is not None:\n p.grad.data.mul_(c)\n\n def clip_grad_norm(self, max_norm):\n \"\"\"Clips gradient norm.\"\"\"\n if max_norm > 0:\n return torch.nn.utils.clip_grad_norm_(self.params, max_norm)\n else:\n return math.sqrt(\n sum(p.grad.data.norm() ** 2 for p in self.params if p.grad is not None)\n )\n\n def step(self, closure=None):\n \"\"\"Performs a single optimization step.\"\"\"\n self.optimizer.step(closure)\n\n def zero_grad(self):\n \"\"\"Clears the gradients of all optimized parameters.\"\"\"\n for p in self.params:\n p.grad = None\n self.optimizer.zero_grad()\n\n @property\n def supports_memory_efficient_fp16(self):\n if hasattr(self.optimizer, \"supports_memory_efficient_fp16\"):\n return self.optimizer.supports_memory_efficient_fp16\n return False\n\n def average_params(self):\n pass\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/optim/fp16_optimizer.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom itertools import chain\n\nimport torch\n\nfrom fairseq import optim, utils\n\n\nclass DynamicLossScaler(object):\n def __init__(\n self,\n init_scale=2.0 ** 15,\n scale_factor=2.0,\n scale_window=2000,\n tolerance=0.05,\n threshold=None,\n ):\n self.loss_scale = init_scale\n self.scale_factor = scale_factor\n self.scale_window = scale_window\n self.tolerance = tolerance\n self.threshold = threshold\n self._iter = 0\n self._last_overflow_iter = -1\n self._last_rescale_iter = -1\n self._overflows_since_rescale = 0\n\n def update_scale(self, overflow):\n iter_since_rescale = self._iter - self._last_rescale_iter\n if overflow:\n self._last_overflow_iter = self._iter\n self._overflows_since_rescale += 1\n pct_overflow = self._overflows_since_rescale / float(iter_since_rescale)\n if pct_overflow >= self.tolerance:\n self._decrease_loss_scale()\n self._last_rescale_iter = self._iter\n self._overflows_since_rescale = 0\n elif (self._iter - self._last_overflow_iter) % self.scale_window == 0:\n self.loss_scale *= self.scale_factor\n self._last_rescale_iter = self._iter\n self._iter += 1\n\n def _decrease_loss_scale(self):\n self.loss_scale /= self.scale_factor\n if self.threshold is not None:\n self.loss_scale = max(self.loss_scale, self.threshold)\n\n @staticmethod\n def has_overflow(grad_norm):\n # detect inf and nan\n if grad_norm == float(\"inf\") or grad_norm != grad_norm:\n return True\n return False\n\n\nclass _FP16OptimizerMixin(object):\n def __init__(self, *args, **kwargs):\n # forward __init__ call to the next class in mro(method resolution order)\n super().__init__(*args, **kwargs)\n\n @classmethod\n def build_fp32_params(cls, params):\n # create FP32 copy of parameters and grads\n total_param_size = sum(p.data.numel() for p in params)\n fp32_params = params[0].new(0).float().new(total_param_size)\n offset = 0\n for p in params:\n numel = p.data.numel()\n fp32_params[offset : offset + numel].copy_(p.data.view(-1))\n offset += numel\n fp32_params = torch.nn.Parameter(fp32_params)\n fp32_params.grad = fp32_params.data.new(total_param_size)\n return fp32_params\n\n def state_dict(self):\n \"\"\"Return the optimizer's state dict.\"\"\"\n state_dict = self.fp32_optimizer.state_dict()\n state_dict[\"loss_scale\"] = self.scaler.loss_scale\n return state_dict\n\n def load_state_dict(self, state_dict, optimizer_overrides=None):\n \"\"\"Load an optimizer state dict.\n\n In general we should prefer the configuration of the existing optimizer\n instance (e.g., learning rate) over that found in the state_dict. This\n allows us to resume training from a checkpoint using a new set of\n optimizer args.\n \"\"\"\n if \"loss_scale\" in state_dict:\n self.scaler.loss_scale = state_dict[\"loss_scale\"]\n self.fp32_optimizer.load_state_dict(state_dict, optimizer_overrides)\n\n def backward(self, loss):\n \"\"\"Computes the sum of gradients of the given tensor w.r.t. graph leaves.\n\n Compared to :func:`fairseq.optim.FairseqOptimizer.backward`, this\n function additionally dynamically scales the loss to avoid gradient\n underflow.\n \"\"\"\n loss = loss * self.scaler.loss_scale\n loss.backward()\n self._needs_sync = True\n\n def _sync_fp16_grads_to_fp32(self, multiply_grads=1.0):\n if self._needs_sync:\n # copy FP16 grads to FP32\n offset = 0\n for p in self.fp16_params:\n if not p.requires_grad:\n continue\n grad_data = (\n p.grad.data\n if p.grad is not None\n else p.data.new_zeros(p.data.shape)\n )\n numel = grad_data.numel()\n self.fp32_params.grad.data[offset : offset + numel].copy_(\n grad_data.view(-1)\n )\n offset += numel\n\n # correct for dynamic loss scaler\n self.fp32_params.grad.data.mul_(multiply_grads / self.scaler.loss_scale)\n\n self._needs_sync = False\n\n def multiply_grads(self, c):\n \"\"\"Multiplies grads by a constant ``c``.\"\"\"\n if self._needs_sync:\n self._sync_fp16_grads_to_fp32(c)\n else:\n self.fp32_params.grad.data.mul_(c)\n\n def clip_grad_norm(self, max_norm):\n \"\"\"Clips gradient norm and updates dynamic loss scaler.\"\"\"\n self._sync_fp16_grads_to_fp32()\n grad_norm = utils.clip_grad_norm_(self.fp32_params.grad.data, max_norm)\n\n # detect overflow and adjust loss scale\n overflow = DynamicLossScaler.has_overflow(grad_norm)\n self.scaler.update_scale(overflow)\n if overflow:\n if self.scaler.loss_scale <= self.min_loss_scale:\n # Use FloatingPointError as an uncommon error that parent\n # functions can safely catch to stop training.\n raise FloatingPointError(\n (\n \"Minimum loss scale reached ({}). Your loss is probably exploding. \"\n \"Try lowering the learning rate, using gradient clipping or \"\n \"increasing the batch size.\"\n ).format(self.min_loss_scale)\n )\n raise OverflowError(\"setting loss scale to: \" + str(self.scaler.loss_scale))\n return grad_norm\n\n def step(self, closure=None):\n \"\"\"Performs a single optimization step.\"\"\"\n self._sync_fp16_grads_to_fp32()\n self.fp32_optimizer.step(closure)\n\n # copy FP32 params back into FP16 model\n offset = 0\n for p in self.fp16_params:\n if not p.requires_grad:\n continue\n numel = p.data.numel()\n p.data.copy_(self.fp32_params.data[offset : offset + numel].view_as(p.data))\n offset += numel\n\n def zero_grad(self):\n \"\"\"Clears the gradients of all optimized parameters.\"\"\"\n for p in self.fp16_params:\n p.grad = None\n self._needs_sync = False\n\n\nclass FP16Optimizer(_FP16OptimizerMixin, optim.FairseqOptimizer):\n \"\"\"\n Wrap an *optimizer* to support FP16 (mixed precision) training.\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, args, params, fp32_optimizer, fp32_params):\n super().__init__(args)\n self.fp16_params = params\n self.fp32_optimizer = fp32_optimizer\n self.fp32_params = fp32_params\n\n if getattr(args, \"fp16_scale_window\", None) is None:\n if len(args.update_freq) > 1:\n raise ValueError(\n \"--fp16-scale-window must be given explicitly when using a \"\n \"custom --update-freq schedule\"\n )\n scale_window = 2 ** 14 / args.distributed_world_size / args.update_freq[0]\n else:\n scale_window = args.fp16_scale_window\n\n self.scaler = DynamicLossScaler(\n init_scale=args.fp16_init_scale,\n scale_window=scale_window,\n tolerance=args.fp16_scale_tolerance,\n threshold=args.threshold_loss_scale,\n )\n self.min_loss_scale = self.args.min_loss_scale\n\n @classmethod\n def build_optimizer(cls, args, params):\n \"\"\"\n Args:\n args (argparse.Namespace): fairseq args\n params (iterable): iterable of parameters to optimize\n \"\"\"\n fp32_params = cls.build_fp32_params(params)\n fp32_optimizer = optim.build_optimizer(args, [fp32_params])\n return cls(args, params, fp32_optimizer, fp32_params)\n\n @property\n def optimizer(self):\n return self.fp32_optimizer.optimizer\n\n @property\n def optimizer_config(self):\n return self.fp32_optimizer.optimizer_config\n\n def get_lr(self):\n return self.fp32_optimizer.get_lr()\n\n def set_lr(self, lr):\n self.fp32_optimizer.set_lr(lr)\n\n\nclass _MemoryEfficientFP16OptimizerMixin(object):\n def __init__(self, *args, **kwargs):\n # forward __init__ call to the next class in mro(method resolution order)\n super().__init__(*args, **kwargs)\n\n def state_dict(self):\n \"\"\"Return the optimizer's state dict.\"\"\"\n state_dict = self.wrapped_optimizer.state_dict()\n state_dict[\"loss_scale\"] = self.scaler.loss_scale\n return state_dict\n\n def load_state_dict(self, state_dict, optimizer_overrides=None):\n \"\"\"Load an optimizer state dict.\n\n In general we should prefer the configuration of the existing optimizer\n instance (e.g., learning rate) over that found in the state_dict. This\n allows us to resume training from a checkpoint using a new set of\n optimizer args.\n \"\"\"\n if \"loss_scale\" in state_dict:\n self.scaler.loss_scale = state_dict[\"loss_scale\"]\n\n self.wrapped_optimizer.load_state_dict(state_dict, optimizer_overrides)\n\n # Hack: PyTorch automatically casts the optimizer state to match the\n # type of the current parameters. But with --memory-efficient-fp16 the\n # params are FP16 while the optimizer state is FP32 and we don't want\n # to cast. A workaround is to manually copy back the original state\n # after the optimizer has been loaded.\n groups = self.optimizer.param_groups\n saved_groups = state_dict[\"param_groups\"]\n id_map = {\n old_id: p\n for old_id, p in zip(\n chain(*(g[\"params\"] for g in saved_groups)),\n chain(*(g[\"params\"] for g in groups)),\n )\n }\n for k, v in state_dict[\"state\"].items():\n if k in id_map:\n param = id_map[k]\n self.optimizer.state[param] = v\n\n def backward(self, loss):\n \"\"\"Computes the sum of gradients of the given tensor w.r.t. graph leaves.\n\n Compared to :func:`fairseq.optim.FairseqOptimizer.backward`, this\n function additionally dynamically scales the loss to avoid gradient\n underflow.\n \"\"\"\n loss = loss * self.scaler.loss_scale\n loss.backward()\n self._grads_are_scaled = True\n\n def _unscale_grads(self, multiply_grads=1.0):\n if self._grads_are_scaled:\n self._grads_are_scaled = False\n\n # correct for dynamic loss scaler\n self.wrapped_optimizer.multiply_grads(\n multiply_grads / self.scaler.loss_scale\n )\n else:\n assert multiply_grads == 1.0\n\n def multiply_grads(self, c):\n \"\"\"Multiplies grads by a constant *c*.\"\"\"\n if self._grads_are_scaled:\n self._unscale_grads(c)\n else:\n self.wrapped_optimizer.multiply_grads(c)\n\n def clip_grad_norm(self, max_norm):\n \"\"\"Clips gradient norm and updates dynamic loss scaler.\"\"\"\n self._unscale_grads()\n grad_norm = self.wrapped_optimizer.clip_grad_norm(max_norm)\n\n # detect overflow and adjust loss scale\n overflow = DynamicLossScaler.has_overflow(grad_norm)\n self.scaler.update_scale(overflow)\n if overflow:\n if self.scaler.loss_scale <= self.min_loss_scale:\n # Use FloatingPointError as an uncommon error that parent\n # functions can safely catch to stop training.\n raise FloatingPointError(\n (\n \"Minimum loss scale reached ({}). Your loss is probably exploding. \"\n \"Try lowering the learning rate, using gradient clipping or \"\n \"increasing the batch size.\"\n ).format(self.min_loss_scale)\n )\n raise OverflowError(\"setting loss scale to: \" + str(self.scaler.loss_scale))\n\n return grad_norm\n\n def step(self, closure=None):\n \"\"\"Performs a single optimization step.\"\"\"\n self._unscale_grads()\n self.wrapped_optimizer.step(closure)\n\n def zero_grad(self):\n \"\"\"Clears the gradients of all optimized parameters.\"\"\"\n self.wrapped_optimizer.zero_grad()\n self._grads_are_scaled = False\n\n\nclass MemoryEfficientFP16Optimizer(\n _MemoryEfficientFP16OptimizerMixin, optim.FairseqOptimizer\n):\n \"\"\"\n Wrap an *optimizer* to support FP16 (mixed precision) training.\n\n Compared to :class:`fairseq.optim.FP16Optimizer`, this version does not\n maintain an FP32 copy of the model. We instead expect the optimizer to\n convert the gradients to FP32 internally and sync the results back to the\n FP16 model params. This significantly reduces memory usage but slightly\n increases the time spent in the optimizer.\n\n Since this wrapper depends on specific functionality in the wrapped\n optimizer (i.e., on-the-fly conversion of grads to FP32), only certain\n optimizers can be wrapped. This is determined by the\n *supports_memory_efficient_fp16* property.\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, args, params, optimizer):\n if not optimizer.supports_memory_efficient_fp16:\n raise ValueError(\n \"Unsupported optimizer: {}\".format(optimizer.__class__.__name__)\n )\n\n super().__init__(args)\n self.wrapped_optimizer = optimizer\n\n if getattr(args, \"fp16_scale_window\", None) is None:\n if len(args.update_freq) > 1:\n raise ValueError(\n \"--fp16-scale-window must be given explicitly when using a \"\n \"custom --update-freq schedule\"\n )\n scale_window = 2 ** 14 / args.distributed_world_size / args.update_freq[0]\n else:\n scale_window = args.fp16_scale_window\n\n self.scaler = DynamicLossScaler(\n init_scale=args.fp16_init_scale,\n scale_window=scale_window,\n tolerance=args.fp16_scale_tolerance,\n threshold=args.threshold_loss_scale,\n )\n self.min_loss_scale = self.args.min_loss_scale\n\n @classmethod\n def build_optimizer(cls, args, params):\n \"\"\"\n Args:\n args (argparse.Namespace): fairseq args\n params (iterable): iterable of parameters to optimize\n \"\"\"\n fp16_optimizer = optim.build_optimizer(args, params)\n return cls(args, params, fp16_optimizer)\n\n @property\n def optimizer(self):\n return self.wrapped_optimizer.optimizer\n\n @property\n def optimizer_config(self):\n return self.wrapped_optimizer.optimizer_config\n\n def get_lr(self):\n return self.wrapped_optimizer.get_lr()\n\n def set_lr(self, lr):\n self.wrapped_optimizer.set_lr(lr)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/optim/lr_scheduler/__init__.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport importlib\nimport os\n\nfrom fairseq import registry\nfrom fairseq.optim.lr_scheduler.fairseq_lr_scheduler import FairseqLRScheduler\n\n\n(\n build_lr_scheduler,\n register_lr_scheduler,\n LR_SCHEDULER_REGISTRY,\n) = registry.setup_registry(\n \"--lr-scheduler\", base_class=FairseqLRScheduler, default=\"fixed\",\n)\n\n# automatically import any Python files in the optim/lr_scheduler/ directory\nfor file in os.listdir(os.path.dirname(__file__)):\n if file.endswith(\".py\") and not file.startswith(\"_\"):\n module = file[: file.find(\".py\")]\n importlib.import_module(\"fairseq.optim.lr_scheduler.\" + module)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/optim/lr_scheduler/cosine_lr_scheduler.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport math\n\nfrom . import FairseqLRScheduler, register_lr_scheduler\n\n\n@register_lr_scheduler(\"cosine\")\nclass CosineSchedule(FairseqLRScheduler):\n \"\"\"Assign LR based on a cyclical schedule that follows the cosine function.\n\n See https://arxiv.org/pdf/1608.03983.pdf for details.\n\n We also support a warmup phase where we linearly increase the learning rate\n from some initial learning rate (``--warmup-init-lr``) until the configured\n max learning rate (``--max-lr``).\n\n During warmup::\n\n lrs = torch.linspace(args.warmup_init_lr, args.lr, args.warmup_updates)\n lr = lrs[update_num]\n\n After warmup::\n\n lr = lr_min + 0.5*(lr_max - lr_min)*(1 + cos(t_curr / t_i))\n\n where ``t_curr`` is current percentage of updates within the current period\n range and ``t_i`` is the current period range, which is scaled by ``t_mul``\n after every iteration.\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, args, optimizer):\n super().__init__(args, optimizer)\n if len(args.lr) > 1:\n raise ValueError(\n \"Cannot use a fixed learning rate schedule with cosine.\"\n \" Consider --lr-scheduler=fixed instead.\"\n )\n\n warmup_end_lr = args.max_lr\n if args.warmup_init_lr < 0:\n args.warmup_init_lr = args.lr[0]\n\n self.min_lr = args.lr[0]\n self.max_lr = args.max_lr\n\n assert self.max_lr > self.min_lr, \"max_lr must be more than lr\"\n\n self.t_mult = args.t_mult\n self.period = args.lr_period_updates\n\n if self.period <= 0:\n assert (\n args.max_update >= 0\n ), \"Either --max_update or --lr-period-updates must be set\"\n self.period = args.max_update - args.warmup_updates\n\n if args.warmup_updates > 0:\n # linearly warmup for the first args.warmup_updates\n self.lr_step = (warmup_end_lr - args.warmup_init_lr) / args.warmup_updates\n else:\n self.lr_step = 1\n\n self.warmup_updates = args.warmup_updates\n self.lr_shrink = args.lr_shrink\n\n # initial learning rate\n self.lr = args.warmup_init_lr\n self.optimizer.set_lr(self.lr)\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add arguments to the parser for this LR scheduler.\"\"\"\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument('--warmup-updates', default=0, type=int, metavar='N',\n help='warmup the learning rate linearly for the first N updates')\n parser.add_argument('--warmup-init-lr', default=-1, type=float, metavar='LR',\n help='initial learning rate during warmup phase; default is args.lr')\n parser.add_argument('--max-lr', type=float, metavar='LR',\n help='max learning rate, must be more than args.lr')\n parser.add_argument('--t-mult', default=1, type=float, metavar='LR',\n help='factor to grow the length of each period')\n parser.add_argument('--lr-period-updates', default=-1, type=float, metavar='LR',\n help='initial number of updates per period')\n parser.add_argument('--lr-shrink', default=0.1, type=float, metavar='LS',\n help='shrink factor for annealing')\n # fmt: on\n\n def step(self, epoch, val_loss=None):\n \"\"\"Update the learning rate at the end of the given epoch.\"\"\"\n super().step(epoch, val_loss)\n # we don't change the learning rate at epoch boundaries\n return self.optimizer.get_lr()\n\n def step_update(self, num_updates):\n \"\"\"Update the learning rate after each update.\"\"\"\n if num_updates < self.args.warmup_updates:\n self.lr = self.args.warmup_init_lr + num_updates * self.lr_step\n else:\n curr_updates = num_updates - self.args.warmup_updates\n if self.t_mult != 1:\n i = math.floor(\n math.log(\n 1 - curr_updates / self.period * (1 - self.t_mult), self.t_mult\n )\n )\n t_i = self.t_mult ** i * self.period\n t_curr = (\n curr_updates\n - (1 - self.t_mult ** i) / (1 - self.t_mult) * self.period\n )\n else:\n i = math.floor(curr_updates / self.period)\n t_i = self.period\n t_curr = curr_updates - (self.period * i)\n\n lr_shrink = self.lr_shrink ** i\n min_lr = self.min_lr * lr_shrink\n max_lr = self.max_lr * lr_shrink\n\n self.lr = min_lr + 0.5 * (max_lr - min_lr) * (\n 1 + math.cos(math.pi * t_curr / t_i)\n )\n\n self.optimizer.set_lr(self.lr)\n return self.lr\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/optim/lr_scheduler/fairseq_lr_scheduler.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom .. import FairseqOptimizer\n\n\nclass FairseqLRScheduler(object):\n def __init__(self, args, optimizer):\n super().__init__()\n if not isinstance(optimizer, FairseqOptimizer):\n raise ValueError(\"optimizer must be an instance of FairseqOptimizer\")\n self.args = args\n self.optimizer = optimizer\n self.best = None\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add arguments to the parser for this LR scheduler.\"\"\"\n pass\n\n def state_dict(self):\n \"\"\"Return the LR scheduler state dict.\"\"\"\n return {\"best\": self.best}\n\n def load_state_dict(self, state_dict):\n \"\"\"Load an LR scheduler state dict.\"\"\"\n self.best = state_dict[\"best\"]\n\n def step(self, epoch, val_loss=None):\n \"\"\"Update the learning rate at the end of the given epoch.\"\"\"\n if val_loss is not None:\n if self.best is None:\n self.best = val_loss\n else:\n self.best = min(self.best, val_loss)\n\n def step_update(self, num_updates):\n \"\"\"Update the learning rate after each update.\"\"\"\n return self.optimizer.get_lr()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/optim/lr_scheduler/fixed_schedule.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom . import FairseqLRScheduler, register_lr_scheduler\n\n\n@register_lr_scheduler(\"fixed\")\nclass FixedSchedule(FairseqLRScheduler):\n \"\"\"Decay the LR on a fixed schedule.\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, args, optimizer):\n super().__init__(args, optimizer)\n\n # set defaults\n args.warmup_updates = getattr(args, \"warmup_updates\", 0) or 0\n\n self.lr = args.lr[0]\n if args.warmup_updates > 0:\n self.warmup_factor = 1.0 / args.warmup_updates\n else:\n self.warmup_factor = 1\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add arguments to the parser for this LR scheduler.\"\"\"\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument('--force-anneal', '--fa', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='force annealing at specified epoch')\n parser.add_argument('--lr-shrink', default=0.1, type=float, metavar='LS',\n help='shrink factor for annealing, lr_new = (lr * lr_shrink)')\n parser.add_argument('--warmup-updates', default=0, type=int, metavar='N',\n help='warmup the learning rate linearly for the first N updates')\n # fmt: on\n\n def get_next_lr(self, epoch):\n lrs = self.args.lr\n if self.args.force_anneal is None or epoch < self.args.force_anneal:\n # use fixed LR schedule\n next_lr = lrs[min(epoch, len(lrs) - 1)]\n else:\n # annneal based on lr_shrink\n next_lr = lrs[-1] * self.args.lr_shrink ** (\n epoch + 1 - self.args.force_anneal\n )\n return next_lr\n\n def step(self, epoch, val_loss=None):\n \"\"\"Update the learning rate at the end of the given epoch.\"\"\"\n super().step(epoch, val_loss)\n self.lr = self.get_next_lr(epoch)\n self.optimizer.set_lr(self.warmup_factor * self.lr)\n return self.optimizer.get_lr()\n\n def step_update(self, num_updates):\n \"\"\"Update the learning rate after each update.\"\"\"\n if self.args.warmup_updates > 0 and num_updates < self.args.warmup_updates:\n self.warmup_factor = (num_updates + 1) / float(self.args.warmup_updates)\n self.optimizer.set_lr(self.warmup_factor * self.lr)\n return self.optimizer.get_lr()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/optim/lr_scheduler/inverse_square_root_schedule.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom . import FairseqLRScheduler, register_lr_scheduler\n\n\n@register_lr_scheduler(\"inverse_sqrt\")\nclass InverseSquareRootSchedule(FairseqLRScheduler):\n \"\"\"Decay the LR based on the inverse square root of the update number.\n\n We also support a warmup phase where we linearly increase the learning rate\n from some initial learning rate (``--warmup-init-lr``) until the configured\n learning rate (``--lr``). Thereafter we decay proportional to the number of\n updates, with a decay factor set to align with the configured learning rate.\n\n During warmup::\n\n lrs = torch.linspace(args.warmup_init_lr, args.lr, args.warmup_updates)\n lr = lrs[update_num]\n\n After warmup::\n\n decay_factor = args.lr * sqrt(args.warmup_updates)\n lr = decay_factor / sqrt(update_num)\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, args, optimizer):\n super().__init__(args, optimizer)\n if len(args.lr) > 1:\n raise ValueError(\n \"Cannot use a fixed learning rate schedule with inverse_sqrt.\"\n \" Consider --lr-scheduler=fixed instead.\"\n )\n warmup_end_lr = args.lr[0]\n if args.warmup_init_lr < 0:\n args.warmup_init_lr = 0 if args.warmup_updates > 0 else warmup_end_lr\n\n # linearly warmup for the first args.warmup_updates\n self.lr_step = (warmup_end_lr - args.warmup_init_lr) / args.warmup_updates\n\n # then, decay prop. to the inverse square root of the update number\n self.decay_factor = warmup_end_lr * args.warmup_updates ** 0.5\n\n # initial learning rate\n self.lr = args.warmup_init_lr\n self.optimizer.set_lr(self.lr)\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add arguments to the parser for this LR scheduler.\"\"\"\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument('--warmup-updates', default=4000, type=int, metavar='N',\n help='warmup the learning rate linearly for the first N updates')\n parser.add_argument('--warmup-init-lr', default=-1, type=float, metavar='LR',\n help='initial learning rate during warmup phase; default is args.lr')\n # fmt: on\n\n def step(self, epoch, val_loss=None):\n \"\"\"Update the learning rate at the end of the given epoch.\"\"\"\n super().step(epoch, val_loss)\n # we don't change the learning rate at epoch boundaries\n return self.optimizer.get_lr()\n\n def step_update(self, num_updates):\n \"\"\"Update the learning rate after each update.\"\"\"\n if num_updates < self.args.warmup_updates:\n self.lr = self.args.warmup_init_lr + num_updates * self.lr_step\n else:\n self.lr = self.decay_factor * num_updates ** -0.5\n self.optimizer.set_lr(self.lr)\n return self.lr\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/optim/lr_scheduler/polynomial_decay_schedule.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom . import FairseqLRScheduler, register_lr_scheduler\n\n\n@register_lr_scheduler(\"polynomial_decay\")\nclass PolynomialDecaySchedule(FairseqLRScheduler):\n \"\"\"Decay the LR on a fixed schedule.\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, args, optimizer):\n super().__init__(args, optimizer)\n\n # set defaults\n args.warmup_updates = getattr(args, \"warmup_updates\", 0) or 0\n\n self.lr = args.lr[0]\n if args.warmup_updates > 0:\n self.warmup_factor = 1.0 / args.warmup_updates\n else:\n self.warmup_factor = 1\n self.end_learning_rate = args.end_learning_rate\n self.total_num_update = args.total_num_update\n self.power = args.power\n self.optimizer.set_lr(self.warmup_factor * self.lr)\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add arguments to the parser for this LR scheduler.\"\"\"\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--force-anneal\",\n \"--fa\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"force annealing at specified epoch\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--warmup-updates\",\n default=0,\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"warmup the learning rate linearly for the first N updates\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\"--end-learning-rate\", default=0.0, type=float)\n parser.add_argument(\"--power\", default=1.0, type=float)\n parser.add_argument(\"--total-num-update\", default=1000000, type=int)\n\n def get_next_lr(self, epoch):\n lrs = self.args.lr\n if self.args.force_anneal is None or epoch < self.args.force_anneal:\n # use fixed LR schedule\n next_lr = lrs[min(epoch, len(lrs) - 1)]\n else:\n # annneal based on lr_shrink\n next_lr = self.optimizer.get_lr()\n return next_lr\n\n def step(self, epoch, val_loss=None):\n \"\"\"Update the learning rate at the end of the given epoch.\"\"\"\n super().step(epoch, val_loss)\n self.lr = self.get_next_lr(epoch)\n self.optimizer.set_lr(self.warmup_factor * self.lr)\n return self.optimizer.get_lr()\n\n def step_update(self, num_updates):\n \"\"\"Update the learning rate after each update.\"\"\"\n if self.args.warmup_updates > 0 and num_updates <= self.args.warmup_updates:\n self.warmup_factor = num_updates / float(self.args.warmup_updates)\n lr = self.warmup_factor * self.lr\n elif num_updates >= self.total_num_update:\n lr = self.end_learning_rate\n else:\n warmup = self.args.warmup_updates\n lr_range = self.lr - self.end_learning_rate\n pct_remaining = 1 - (num_updates - warmup) / (\n self.total_num_update - warmup\n )\n lr = lr_range * pct_remaining ** (self.power) + self.end_learning_rate\n self.optimizer.set_lr(lr)\n return self.optimizer.get_lr()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/optim/lr_scheduler/reduce_lr_on_plateau.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch.optim.lr_scheduler\n\nfrom . import FairseqLRScheduler, register_lr_scheduler\n\n\n@register_lr_scheduler(\"reduce_lr_on_plateau\")\nclass ReduceLROnPlateau(FairseqLRScheduler):\n \"\"\"\n Decay the LR by a factor every time the validation loss plateaus.\n Also comes with optional warmup phase, where we linearly increase the learning rate\n from some initial learning rate (``--warmup-init-lr``) until the configured\n learning rate (``--lr``). Thereafter the lr is adjusted according to original reduce_on_plateau scheme\n\n During warmup::\n\n lrs = torch.linspace(args.warmup_init_lr, args.lr, args.warmup_updates)\n lr = lrs[update_num]\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, args, optimizer):\n super().__init__(args, optimizer)\n if len(args.lr) > 1:\n raise ValueError(\n \"Cannot use a fixed learning rate schedule with reduce_lr_on_plateau.\"\n \" Consider --lr-scheduler=fixed instead.\"\n )\n self.lr_scheduler = torch.optim.lr_scheduler.ReduceLROnPlateau(\n self.optimizer.optimizer,\n patience=0,\n factor=args.lr_shrink,\n threshold=args.lr_threshold,\n )\n warmup_end_lr = args.lr[0]\n \"\"\"if no warm up, sets initial lr to be args.lr[0]\"\"\"\n if args.warmup_init_lr < 0:\n args.warmup_init_lr = 0 if args.warmup_updates > 0 else warmup_end_lr\n\n \"\"\" linearly warmup for the first args.warmup_updates\"\"\"\n if args.warmup_updates > 0:\n self.lr_step = (warmup_end_lr - args.warmup_init_lr) / args.warmup_updates\n \"\"\" this flag is either set from arg when no warm up, or set by step_update() when warmup finishes\"\"\"\n self.warmup_end = True if args.warmup_updates <= 0 else False\n \"\"\" initial learning rate\"\"\"\n \"\"\"this self.lr is used only during init and/or warm up period\"\"\"\n self.lr = args.warmup_init_lr\n self.optimizer.set_lr(self.lr)\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add arguments to the parser for this LR scheduler.\"\"\"\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument('--lr-shrink', default=0.1, type=float, metavar='LS',\n help='shrink factor for annealing, lr_new = (lr * lr_shrink)')\n parser.add_argument('--lr-threshold', default=1e-4, type=float, metavar='LT',\n help='Threshold for measuring the new optimum, \\\n to only focus on significant changes')\n parser.add_argument('--warmup-updates', default=0, type=int, metavar='N',\n help='warmup the learning rate linearly for the first N updates')\n parser.add_argument('--warmup-init-lr', default=-1, type=float, metavar='LR',\n help='initial learning rate during warmup phase; default is args.lr')\n # fmt: on\n\n def state_dict(self):\n \"\"\"Return the LR scheduler state dict.\"\"\"\n return {\n \"best\": self.lr_scheduler.best,\n \"last_epoch\": self.lr_scheduler.last_epoch,\n }\n\n def load_state_dict(self, state_dict):\n \"\"\"Load an LR scheduler state dict.\"\"\"\n self.lr_scheduler.best = state_dict[\"best\"]\n if \"last_epoch\" in state_dict:\n self.lr_scheduler.last_epoch = state_dict[\"last_epoch\"]\n\n def step(self, epoch, val_loss=None):\n \"\"\"Update the learning rate at the end of the given epoch if warmup finishes\"\"\"\n \"\"\" otherwise no update of lr on epoch boundaries\"\"\"\n if val_loss is not None and self.warmup_end is True:\n self.lr_scheduler.step(val_loss, epoch)\n else:\n self.lr_scheduler.last_epoch = epoch\n return self.optimizer.get_lr()\n\n def step_update(self, num_updates):\n \"\"\"Update the learning rate after each update.\"\"\"\n \"\"\" if there is warmup\"\"\"\n if self.args.warmup_updates > 0:\n if num_updates <= self.args.warmup_updates:\n self.lr = self.args.warmup_init_lr + num_updates * self.lr_step\n self.optimizer.set_lr(self.lr)\n else:\n if self.warmup_end is False:\n self.warmup_end = True\n \"\"\"else do nothing \"\"\"\n return self.optimizer.get_lr()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/optim/lr_scheduler/tri_stage_lr_scheduler.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom . import FairseqLRScheduler, register_lr_scheduler\nimport math\n\n\n@register_lr_scheduler(\"tri_stage\")\nclass TriStageLRSchedule(FairseqLRScheduler):\n \"\"\"Tristage learning rate schedulr\n\n Implement the learning rate scheduler in https://arxiv.org/pdf/1904.08779.pdf\n\n Similar to inverse_squre_root scheduler, but tri_stage learning rate employs\n three stages LR scheduling:\n\n - warmup stage, starting from `lr` * `init_lr_scale`, linearly\n increased to `lr` in `warmup_steps` iterations\n\n - hold stage, after `warmup_steps`, keep the LR as `lr` for `hold_steps`\n iterations\n\n - decay stage, after hold stage, decay LR exponetially to\n `lr` * `final_lr_scale` in `decay_steps`;\n after that LR is keep as `final_lr_scale` * `lr`\n\n During warmup::\n\n init_lr = args.init_lr_scale * args.lr\n lrs = torch.linspace(init_lr, args.lr, args.warmup_steps)\n lr = lrs[update_num]\n\n During hold::\n\n lr = args.lr\n\n During decay::\n\n decay_factor = - math.log(args.final_lr_scale) / args.decay_steps\n lr = args.lr * exp(- (update_num - warmup_steps - decay_steps) * decay_factor)\n\n After that::\n\n lr = args.lr * args.final_lr_scale\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, args, optimizer):\n super().__init__(args, optimizer)\n if len(args.lr) > 1:\n raise ValueError(\n \"Cannot use a fixed learning rate schedule with tri-stage lr.\"\n \" Consider --lr-scheduler=fixed instead.\"\n )\n\n # calculate LR at each point\n self.peak_lr = args.lr[0]\n self.init_lr = args.init_lr_scale * args.lr[0]\n self.final_lr = args.final_lr_scale * args.lr[0]\n\n # remember the steps at each stage\n self.warmup_steps = args.warmup_steps\n self.hold_steps = args.hold_steps\n self.decay_steps = args.decay_steps\n\n self.warmup_rate = (self.peak_lr - self.init_lr) / self.warmup_steps\n self.decay_factor = -math.log(args.final_lr_scale) / args.decay_steps\n\n # initial learning rate\n self.lr = self.init_lr\n self.optimizer.set_lr(self.lr)\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add arguments to the parser for this LR scheduler.\"\"\"\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument(\n '--warmup-steps',\n default=4000,\n type=int,\n metavar='N',\n help='warmup the learning rate linearly for the first N updates'\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n '--hold-steps',\n default=20000,\n type=int,\n metavar='N',\n help='steps in hold stage.'\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n '--decay-steps',\n default=60000,\n type=int,\n metavar='N',\n help='steps in decay stages'\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n '--init-lr-scale',\n default=0.01,\n type=float,\n help=\"\"\"\n initial learning rate scale during warmup phase; default is 0.01\"\"\")\n parser.add_argument(\n '--final-lr-scale',\n default=0.01,\n type=float,\n help=\"final learning rate scale; default to 0.01\"\n )\n # fmt: on\n\n def _decide_stage(self, update_step):\n \"\"\"\n return stage, and the corresponding steps within the current stage\n \"\"\"\n if update_step < self.warmup_steps:\n # warmup state\n return 0, update_step\n\n offset = self.warmup_steps\n\n if update_step < offset + self.hold_steps:\n # hold stage\n return 1, update_step - offset\n\n offset += self.hold_steps\n\n if update_step <= offset + self.decay_steps:\n # decay stage\n return 2, update_step - offset\n\n offset += self.decay_steps\n\n # still here ? constant lr stage\n return 3, update_step - offset\n\n def step(self, epoch, val_loss=None):\n \"\"\"Update the learning rate at the end of the given epoch.\"\"\"\n super().step(epoch, val_loss)\n # we don't change the learning rate at epoch boundaries\n return self.optimizer.get_lr()\n\n def step_update(self, num_updates):\n \"\"\"Update the learning rate after each update.\"\"\"\n stage, steps_in_stage = self._decide_stage(num_updates)\n if stage == 0:\n self.lr = self.init_lr + self.warmup_rate * steps_in_stage\n elif stage == 1:\n self.lr = self.peak_lr\n elif stage == 2:\n self.lr = self.peak_lr * math.exp(-self.decay_factor * steps_in_stage)\n elif stage == 3:\n self.lr = self.final_lr\n else:\n raise ValueError(\"Undefined stage\")\n\n self.optimizer.set_lr(self.lr)\n\n return self.lr\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/optim/lr_scheduler/triangular_lr_scheduler.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport math\n\nfrom . import FairseqLRScheduler, register_lr_scheduler\n\n\n@register_lr_scheduler(\"triangular\")\nclass TriangularSchedule(FairseqLRScheduler):\n \"\"\"Assign LR based on a triangular cyclical schedule.\n\n See https://arxiv.org/pdf/1506.01186.pdf for details.\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, args, optimizer):\n super().__init__(args, optimizer)\n if len(args.lr) > 1:\n raise ValueError(\n \"Cannot use a fixed learning rate schedule with triangular.\"\n \" Consider --lr-scheduler=fixed instead.\"\n )\n\n lr = args.lr[0]\n\n assert args.max_lr > lr, \"max_lr must be more than lr\"\n self.min_lr = lr\n self.max_lr = args.max_lr\n self.stepsize = args.lr_period_updates // 2\n self.lr_shrink = args.lr_shrink\n self.shrink_min = args.shrink_min\n\n # initial learning rate\n self.lr = self.min_lr\n self.optimizer.set_lr(self.lr)\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add arguments to the parser for this LR scheduler.\"\"\"\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument('--max-lr', required=True, type=float, metavar='LR',\n help='max learning rate, must be more than args.lr')\n parser.add_argument('--lr-period-updates', default=5000, type=float, metavar='LR',\n help='initial number of updates per period (cycle length)')\n parser.add_argument('--lr-shrink', default=0.1, type=float, metavar='LS',\n help='shrink factor for annealing')\n parser.add_argument('--shrink-min', action='store_true',\n help='if set, also shrinks min lr')\n # fmt: on\n\n def step(self, epoch, val_loss=None):\n \"\"\"Update the learning rate at the end of the given epoch.\"\"\"\n super().step(epoch, val_loss)\n # we don't change the learning rate at epoch boundaries\n return self.optimizer.get_lr()\n\n def step_update(self, num_updates):\n \"\"\"Update the learning rate after each update.\"\"\"\n cycle = math.floor(num_updates / (2 * self.stepsize))\n\n lr_shrink = self.lr_shrink ** cycle\n max_lr = self.max_lr * lr_shrink\n if self.shrink_min:\n min_lr = self.min_lr * lr_shrink\n else:\n min_lr = self.min_lr\n\n x = abs(num_updates / self.stepsize - 2 * (cycle + 1) + 1)\n self.lr = min_lr + (max_lr - min_lr) * max(0, (1 - x))\n\n self.optimizer.set_lr(self.lr)\n return self.lr\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/optim/nag.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\nfrom torch.optim.optimizer import Optimizer, required\n\nfrom . import FairseqOptimizer, register_optimizer\n\n\n@register_optimizer(\"nag\")\nclass FairseqNAG(FairseqOptimizer):\n def __init__(self, args, params):\n super().__init__(args)\n self._optimizer = NAG(params, **self.optimizer_config)\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add optimizer-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument('--momentum', default=0.99, type=float, metavar='M',\n help='momentum factor')\n parser.add_argument('--weight-decay', '--wd', default=0.0, type=float, metavar='WD',\n help='weight decay')\n # fmt: on\n\n @property\n def optimizer_config(self):\n \"\"\"\n Return a kwarg dictionary that will be used to override optimizer\n args stored in checkpoints. This allows us to load a checkpoint and\n resume training using a different set of optimizer args, e.g., with a\n different learning rate.\n \"\"\"\n return {\n \"lr\": self.args.lr[0],\n \"momentum\": self.args.momentum,\n \"weight_decay\": self.args.weight_decay,\n }\n\n\nclass NAG(Optimizer):\n def __init__(self, params, lr=required, momentum=0, weight_decay=0):\n defaults = dict(lr=lr, lr_old=lr, momentum=momentum, weight_decay=weight_decay)\n super(NAG, self).__init__(params, defaults)\n\n @property\n def supports_memory_efficient_fp16(self):\n return True\n\n def step(self, closure=None):\n \"\"\"Performs a single optimization step.\n\n Arguments:\n closure (callable, optional): A closure that reevaluates the model\n and returns the loss.\n \"\"\"\n loss = None\n if closure is not None:\n loss = closure()\n\n for group in self.param_groups:\n weight_decay = group[\"weight_decay\"]\n momentum = group[\"momentum\"]\n lr = group[\"lr\"]\n lr_old = group.get(\"lr_old\", lr)\n lr_correct = lr / lr_old\n\n for p in group[\"params\"]:\n if p.grad is None:\n continue\n\n p_data_fp32 = p.data.float()\n\n d_p = p.grad.data.float()\n param_state = self.state[p]\n if \"momentum_buffer\" not in param_state:\n param_state[\"momentum_buffer\"] = torch.zeros_like(d_p)\n else:\n param_state[\"momentum_buffer\"] = param_state[\n \"momentum_buffer\"\n ].type_as(d_p)\n\n buf = param_state[\"momentum_buffer\"]\n\n if weight_decay != 0:\n p_data_fp32.mul_(1 - lr * weight_decay)\n p_data_fp32.add_(momentum * momentum * lr_correct, buf)\n p_data_fp32.add_(-(1 + momentum) * lr, d_p)\n\n buf.mul_(momentum * lr_correct).add_(-lr, d_p)\n\n p.data.copy_(p_data_fp32)\n\n group[\"lr_old\"] = lr\n\n return loss\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/optim/sgd.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch.optim\n\nfrom . import FairseqOptimizer, register_optimizer\n\n\n@register_optimizer(\"sgd\")\nclass SGD(FairseqOptimizer):\n def __init__(self, args, params):\n super().__init__(args)\n self._optimizer = torch.optim.SGD(params, **self.optimizer_config)\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add optimizer-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument('--momentum', default=0.0, type=float, metavar='M',\n help='momentum factor')\n parser.add_argument('--weight-decay', '--wd', default=0.0, type=float, metavar='WD',\n help='weight decay')\n # fmt: on\n\n @property\n def optimizer_config(self):\n \"\"\"\n Return a kwarg dictionary that will be used to override optimizer\n args stored in checkpoints. This allows us to load a checkpoint and\n resume training using a different set of optimizer args, e.g., with a\n different learning rate.\n \"\"\"\n return {\n \"lr\": self.args.lr[0],\n \"momentum\": self.args.momentum,\n \"weight_decay\": self.args.weight_decay,\n }\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/options.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport argparse\n\nimport torch\nimport sys\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\nfrom fairseq.data.indexed_dataset import get_available_dataset_impl\n\n\ndef get_preprocessing_parser(default_task=\"translation\"):\n parser = get_parser(\"Preprocessing\", default_task)\n add_preprocess_args(parser)\n return parser\n\n\ndef get_training_parser(default_task=\"translation\"):\n parser = get_parser(\"Trainer\", default_task)\n add_dataset_args(parser, train=True)\n add_distributed_training_args(parser)\n add_model_args(parser)\n add_optimization_args(parser)\n add_checkpoint_args(parser)\n return parser\n\n\ndef get_generation_parser(interactive=False, default_task=\"translation\"):\n parser = get_parser(\"Generation\", default_task)\n add_dataset_args(parser, gen=True)\n add_generation_args(parser)\n if interactive:\n add_interactive_args(parser)\n return parser\n\n\ndef get_interactive_generation_parser(default_task=\"translation\"):\n return get_generation_parser(interactive=True, default_task=default_task)\n\n\ndef get_eval_lm_parser(default_task=\"language_modeling\"):\n parser = get_parser(\"Evaluate Language Model\", default_task)\n add_dataset_args(parser, gen=True)\n add_eval_lm_args(parser)\n return parser\n\n\ndef get_validation_parser(default_task=None):\n parser = get_parser(\"Validation\", default_task)\n add_dataset_args(parser, train=True)\n group = parser.add_argument_group(\"Evaluation\")\n add_common_eval_args(group)\n return parser\n\n\ndef eval_str_list(x, type=float):\n if x is None:\n return None\n if isinstance(x, str):\n x = eval(x)\n try:\n return list(map(type, x))\n except TypeError:\n return [type(x)]\n\n\ndef eval_bool(x, default=False):\n if x is None:\n return default\n try:\n return bool(eval(x))\n except TypeError:\n return default\n\n\ndef parse_args_and_arch(\n parser, input_args=None, parse_known=False, suppress_defaults=False\n):\n if suppress_defaults:\n # Parse args without any default values. This requires us to parse\n # twice, once to identify all the necessary task/model args, and a second\n # time with all defaults set to None.\n args = parse_args_and_arch(\n parser,\n input_args=input_args,\n parse_known=parse_known,\n suppress_defaults=False,\n )\n suppressed_parser = argparse.ArgumentParser(add_help=False, parents=[parser])\n suppressed_parser.set_defaults(**{k: None for k, v in vars(args).items()})\n args = suppressed_parser.parse_args(input_args)\n return argparse.Namespace(\n **{k: v for k, v in vars(args).items() if v is not None}\n )\n\n from fairseq.models import ARCH_MODEL_REGISTRY, ARCH_CONFIG_REGISTRY\n\n # The parser doesn't know about model/criterion/optimizer-specific args, so\n # we parse twice. First we parse the model/criterion/optimizer, then we\n # parse a second time after adding the *-specific arguments.\n # If input_args is given, we will parse those args instead of sys.argv.\n args, _ = parser.parse_known_args(input_args)\n\n # Add model-specific args to parser.\n if hasattr(args, \"arch\"):\n model_specific_group = parser.add_argument_group(\n \"Model-specific configuration\",\n # Only include attributes which are explicitly given as command-line\n # arguments or which have default values.\n argument_default=argparse.SUPPRESS,\n )\n ARCH_MODEL_REGISTRY[args.arch].add_args(model_specific_group)\n\n # Add *-specific args to parser.\n from fairseq.registry import REGISTRIES\n\n for registry_name, REGISTRY in REGISTRIES.items():\n choice = getattr(args, registry_name, None)\n if choice is not None:\n cls = REGISTRY[\"registry\"][choice]\n if hasattr(cls, \"add_args\"):\n cls.add_args(parser)\n if hasattr(args, \"task\"):\n from fairseq.tasks import TASK_REGISTRY\n\n TASK_REGISTRY[args.task].add_args(parser)\n if getattr(args, \"use_bmuf\", False):\n # hack to support extra args for block distributed data parallelism\n from fairseq.optim.bmuf import FairseqBMUF\n\n FairseqBMUF.add_args(parser)\n\n # Parse a second time.\n if parse_known:\n args, extra = parser.parse_known_args(input_args)\n else:\n args = parser.parse_args(input_args)\n extra = None\n\n # Post-process args.\n if hasattr(args, \"max_sentences_valid\") and args.max_sentences_valid is None:\n args.max_sentences_valid = args.max_sentences\n if hasattr(args, \"max_tokens_valid\") and args.max_tokens_valid is None:\n args.max_tokens_valid = args.max_tokens\n if getattr(args, \"memory_efficient_fp16\", False):\n args.fp16 = True\n\n # Apply architecture configuration.\n if hasattr(args, \"arch\"):\n ARCH_CONFIG_REGISTRY[args.arch](args)\n\n if parse_known:\n return args, extra\n else:\n return args\n\n\ndef get_parser(desc, default_task=\"translation\"):\n # Before creating the true parser, we need to import optional user module\n # in order to eagerly import custom tasks, optimizers, architectures, etc.\n usr_parser = argparse.ArgumentParser(add_help=False, allow_abbrev=False)\n usr_parser.add_argument(\"--user-dir\", default=None)\n usr_args, _ = usr_parser.parse_known_args()\n utils.import_user_module(usr_args)\n\n parser = argparse.ArgumentParser(allow_abbrev=False)\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument('--no-progress-bar', action='store_true', help='disable progress bar')\n parser.add_argument('--log-interval', type=int, default=1000, metavar='N',\n help='log progress every N batches (when progress bar is disabled)')\n parser.add_argument('--log-format', default=None, help='log format to use',\n choices=['json', 'none', 'simple', 'tqdm'])\n parser.add_argument('--tensorboard-logdir', metavar='DIR', default='',\n help='path to save logs for tensorboard, should match --logdir '\n 'of running tensorboard (default: no tensorboard logging)')\n parser.add_argument('--seed', default=1, type=int, metavar='N',\n help='pseudo random number generator seed')\n parser.add_argument('--cpu', action='store_true', help='use CPU instead of CUDA')\n parser.add_argument('--fp16', action='store_true', help='use FP16')\n parser.add_argument('--memory-efficient-fp16', action='store_true',\n help='use a memory-efficient version of FP16 training; implies --fp16')\n parser.add_argument('--fp16-init-scale', default=2 ** 7, type=int,\n help='default FP16 loss scale')\n parser.add_argument('--fp16-scale-window', type=int,\n help='number of updates before increasing loss scale')\n parser.add_argument('--fp16-scale-tolerance', default=0.0, type=float,\n help='pct of updates that can overflow before decreasing the loss scale')\n parser.add_argument('--min-loss-scale', default=1e-4, type=float, metavar='D',\n help='minimum FP16 loss scale, after which training is stopped')\n parser.add_argument('--threshold-loss-scale', type=float,\n help='threshold FP16 loss scale from below')\n parser.add_argument('--user-dir', default=None,\n help='path to a python module containing custom extensions (tasks and/or architectures)')\n parser.add_argument('--empty-cache-freq', default=0, type=int,\n help='how often to clear the PyTorch CUDA cache (0 to disable)')\n\n from fairseq.registry import REGISTRIES\n for registry_name, REGISTRY in REGISTRIES.items():\n parser.add_argument(\n '--' + registry_name.replace('_', '-'),\n default=REGISTRY['default'],\n choices=REGISTRY['registry'].keys(),\n )\n\n # Task definitions can be found under fairseq/tasks/\n from fairseq.tasks import TASK_REGISTRY\n parser.add_argument('--task', metavar='TASK', default=default_task,\n choices=TASK_REGISTRY.keys(),\n help='task')\n # fmt: on\n return parser\n\n\ndef add_preprocess_args(parser):\n group = parser.add_argument_group(\"Preprocessing\")\n # fmt: off\n group.add_argument(\"-s\", \"--source-lang\", default=None, metavar=\"SRC\",\n help=\"source language\")\n group.add_argument(\"-t\", \"--target-lang\", default=None, metavar=\"TARGET\",\n help=\"target language\")\n group.add_argument(\"--trainpref\", metavar=\"FP\", default=None,\n help=\"train file prefix\")\n group.add_argument(\"--validpref\", metavar=\"FP\", default=None,\n help=\"comma separated, valid file prefixes\")\n group.add_argument(\"--testpref\", metavar=\"FP\", default=None,\n help=\"comma separated, test file prefixes\")\n group.add_argument(\"--align-suffix\", metavar=\"FP\", default=None,\n help=\"alignment file suffix\")\n group.add_argument(\"--destdir\", metavar=\"DIR\", default=\"data-bin\",\n help=\"destination dir\")\n group.add_argument(\"--thresholdtgt\", metavar=\"N\", default=0, type=int,\n help=\"map words appearing less than threshold times to unknown\")\n group.add_argument(\"--thresholdsrc\", metavar=\"N\", default=0, type=int,\n help=\"map words appearing less than threshold times to unknown\")\n group.add_argument(\"--tgtdict\", metavar=\"FP\",\n help=\"reuse given target dictionary\")\n group.add_argument(\"--srcdict\", metavar=\"FP\",\n help=\"reuse given source dictionary\")\n group.add_argument(\"--nwordstgt\", metavar=\"N\", default=-1, type=int,\n help=\"number of target words to retain\")\n group.add_argument(\"--nwordssrc\", metavar=\"N\", default=-1, type=int,\n help=\"number of source words to retain\")\n group.add_argument(\"--alignfile\", metavar=\"ALIGN\", default=None,\n help=\"an alignment file (optional)\")\n parser.add_argument('--dataset-impl', metavar='FORMAT', default='mmap',\n choices=get_available_dataset_impl(),\n help='output dataset implementation')\n group.add_argument(\"--joined-dictionary\", action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"Generate joined dictionary\")\n group.add_argument(\"--only-source\", action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"Only process the source language\")\n group.add_argument(\"--padding-factor\", metavar=\"N\", default=8, type=int,\n help=\"Pad dictionary size to be multiple of N\")\n group.add_argument(\"--workers\", metavar=\"N\", default=1, type=int,\n help=\"number of parallel workers\")\n # fmt: on\n return parser\n\n\ndef add_dataset_args(parser, train=False, gen=False):\n group = parser.add_argument_group(\"Dataset and data loading\")\n # fmt: off\n group.add_argument('--num-workers', default=1, type=int, metavar='N',\n help='how many subprocesses to use for data loading')\n group.add_argument('--skip-invalid-size-inputs-valid-test', action='store_true',\n help='ignore too long or too short lines in valid and test set')\n group.add_argument('--max-tokens', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='maximum number of tokens in a batch')\n group.add_argument('--max-sentences', '--batch-size', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='maximum number of sentences in a batch')\n group.add_argument('--required-batch-size-multiple', default=8, type=int, metavar='N',\n help='batch size will be a multiplier of this value')\n parser.add_argument('--dataset-impl', metavar='FORMAT',\n choices=get_available_dataset_impl(),\n help='output dataset implementation')\n if train:\n group.add_argument('--train-subset', default='train', metavar='SPLIT',\n choices=['train', 'valid', 'test'],\n help='data subset to use for training (train, valid, test)')\n group.add_argument('--valid-subset', default='valid', metavar='SPLIT',\n help='comma separated list of data subsets to use for validation'\n ' (train, valid, valid1, test, test1)')\n group.add_argument('--validate-interval', type=int, default=1, metavar='N',\n help='validate every N epochs')\n group.add_argument('--fixed-validation-seed', default=None, type=int, metavar='N',\n help='specified random seed for validation')\n group.add_argument('--disable-validation', action='store_true',\n help='disable validation')\n group.add_argument('--max-tokens-valid', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='maximum number of tokens in a validation batch'\n ' (defaults to --max-tokens)')\n group.add_argument('--max-sentences-valid', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='maximum number of sentences in a validation batch'\n ' (defaults to --max-sentences)')\n group.add_argument('--curriculum', default=0, type=int, metavar='N',\n help='don\\'t shuffle batches for first N epochs')\n if gen:\n group.add_argument('--gen-subset', default='test', metavar='SPLIT',\n help='data subset to generate (train, valid, test)')\n group.add_argument('--num-shards', default=1, type=int, metavar='N',\n help='shard generation over N shards')\n group.add_argument('--shard-id', default=0, type=int, metavar='ID',\n help='id of the shard to generate (id < num_shards)')\n # fmt: on\n return group\n\n\ndef add_distributed_training_args(parser):\n group = parser.add_argument_group(\"Distributed training\")\n # fmt: off\n group.add_argument('--distributed-world-size', type=int, metavar='N',\n default=max(1, torch.cuda.device_count()),\n help='total number of GPUs across all nodes (default: all visible GPUs)')\n group.add_argument('--distributed-rank', default=0, type=int,\n help='rank of the current worker')\n group.add_argument('--distributed-backend', default='nccl', type=str,\n help='distributed backend')\n group.add_argument('--distributed-init-method', default=None, type=str,\n help='typically tcp://hostname:port that will be used to '\n 'establish initial connetion')\n group.add_argument('--distributed-port', default=-1, type=int,\n help='port number (not required if using --distributed-init-method)')\n group.add_argument('--device-id', '--local_rank', default=0, type=int,\n help='which GPU to use (usually configured automatically)')\n group.add_argument('--distributed-no-spawn', action='store_true',\n help='do not spawn multiple processes even if multiple GPUs are visible')\n group.add_argument('--ddp-backend', default='c10d', type=str,\n choices=['c10d', 'no_c10d'],\n help='DistributedDataParallel backend')\n group.add_argument('--bucket-cap-mb', default=25, type=int, metavar='MB',\n help='bucket size for reduction')\n group.add_argument('--fix-batches-to-gpus', action='store_true',\n help='don\\'t shuffle batches between GPUs; this reduces overall '\n 'randomness and may affect precision but avoids the cost of '\n 're-reading the data')\n group.add_argument('--find-unused-parameters', default=False, action='store_true',\n help='disable unused parameter detection (not applicable to '\n 'no_c10d ddp-backend')\n group.add_argument('--fast-stat-sync', default=False, action='store_true',\n help='Enable fast sync of stats between nodes, this hardcodes to '\n 'sync only some default stats from logging_output.')\n # fmt: on\n return group\n\n\ndef add_optimization_args(parser):\n group = parser.add_argument_group(\"Optimization\")\n # fmt: off\n group.add_argument('--max-epoch', '--me', default=0, type=int, metavar='N',\n help='force stop training at specified epoch')\n group.add_argument('--max-update', '--mu', default=0, type=int, metavar='N',\n help='force stop training at specified update')\n group.add_argument('--clip-norm', default=25, type=float, metavar='NORM',\n help='clip threshold of gradients')\n group.add_argument('--sentence-avg', action='store_true',\n help='normalize gradients by the number of sentences in a batch'\n ' (default is to normalize by number of tokens)')\n group.add_argument('--update-freq', default='1', metavar='N1,N2,...,N_K',\n type=lambda uf: eval_str_list(uf, type=int),\n help='update parameters every N_i batches, when in epoch i')\n group.add_argument('--lr', '--learning-rate', default='0.25', type=eval_str_list,\n metavar='LR_1,LR_2,...,LR_N',\n help='learning rate for the first N epochs; all epochs >N using LR_N'\n ' (note: this may be interpreted differently depending on --lr-scheduler)')\n group.add_argument('--min-lr', default=-1, type=float, metavar='LR',\n help='stop training when the learning rate reaches this minimum')\n group.add_argument('--use-bmuf', default=False, action='store_true',\n help='specify global optimizer for syncing models on different GPUs/shards')\n # fmt: on\n return group\n\n\ndef add_checkpoint_args(parser):\n group = parser.add_argument_group(\"Checkpointing\")\n # fmt: off\n group.add_argument('--save-dir', metavar='DIR', default='checkpoints',\n help='path to save checkpoints')\n group.add_argument('--restore-file', default='checkpoint_last.pt',\n help='filename from which to load checkpoint '\n '(default: <save-dir>/checkpoint_last.pt')\n group.add_argument('--reset-dataloader', action='store_true',\n help='if set, does not reload dataloader state from the checkpoint')\n group.add_argument('--reset-lr-scheduler', action='store_true',\n help='if set, does not load lr scheduler state from the checkpoint')\n group.add_argument('--reset-meters', action='store_true',\n help='if set, does not load meters from the checkpoint')\n group.add_argument('--reset-optimizer', action='store_true',\n help='if set, does not load optimizer state from the checkpoint')\n group.add_argument('--optimizer-overrides', default=\"{}\", type=str, metavar='DICT',\n help='a dictionary used to override optimizer args when loading a checkpoint')\n group.add_argument('--save-interval', type=int, default=1, metavar='N',\n help='save a checkpoint every N epochs')\n group.add_argument('--save-interval-updates', type=int, default=0, metavar='N',\n help='save a checkpoint (and validate) every N updates')\n group.add_argument('--keep-interval-updates', type=int, default=-1, metavar='N',\n help='keep the last N checkpoints saved with --save-interval-updates')\n group.add_argument('--keep-last-epochs', type=int, default=-1, metavar='N',\n help='keep last N epoch checkpoints')\n group.add_argument('--no-save', action='store_true',\n help='don\\'t save models or checkpoints')\n group.add_argument('--no-epoch-checkpoints', action='store_true',\n help='only store last and best checkpoints')\n group.add_argument('--no-last-checkpoints', action='store_true',\n help='don\\'t store last checkpoints')\n group.add_argument('--no-save-optimizer-state', action='store_true',\n help='don\\'t save optimizer-state as part of checkpoint')\n group.add_argument('--best-checkpoint-metric', type=str, default='loss',\n help='metric to use for saving \"best\" checkpoints')\n group.add_argument('--maximize-best-checkpoint-metric', action='store_true',\n help='select the largest metric value for saving \"best\" checkpoints')\n # fmt: on\n return group\n\n\ndef add_common_eval_args(group):\n # fmt: off\n group.add_argument('--path', metavar='FILE',\n help='path(s) to model file(s), colon separated')\n group.add_argument('--remove-bpe', nargs='?', const='@@ ', default=None,\n help='remove BPE tokens before scoring (can be set to sentencepiece)')\n group.add_argument('--quiet', action='store_true',\n help='only print final scores')\n group.add_argument('--model-overrides', default=\"{}\", type=str, metavar='DICT',\n help='a dictionary used to override model args at generation '\n 'that were used during model training')\n group.add_argument('--results-path', metavar='RESDIR', type=str, default=None,\n help='path to save eval results (optional)\"')\n # fmt: on\n\n\ndef add_eval_lm_args(parser):\n group = parser.add_argument_group(\"LM Evaluation\")\n add_common_eval_args(group)\n # fmt: off\n group.add_argument('--output-word-probs', action='store_true',\n help='if set, outputs words and their predicted log probabilities to standard output')\n group.add_argument('--output-word-stats', action='store_true',\n help='if set, outputs word statistics such as word count, average probability, etc')\n group.add_argument('--context-window', default=0, type=int, metavar='N',\n help='ensures that every evaluated token has access to a context of at least this size,'\n ' if possible')\n group.add_argument('--softmax-batch', default=sys.maxsize, type=int, metavar='N',\n help='if BxT is more than this, will batch the softmax over vocab to this amount of tokens'\n ' in order to fit into GPU memory')\n # fmt: on\n\n\ndef add_generation_args(parser):\n group = parser.add_argument_group(\"Generation\")\n add_common_eval_args(group)\n # fmt: off\n group.add_argument('--beam', default=5, type=int, metavar='N',\n help='beam size')\n group.add_argument('--nbest', default=1, type=int, metavar='N',\n help='number of hypotheses to output')\n group.add_argument('--max-len-a', default=0, type=float, metavar='N',\n help=('generate sequences of maximum length ax + b, '\n 'where x is the source length'))\n group.add_argument('--max-len-b', default=200, type=int, metavar='N',\n help=('generate sequences of maximum length ax + b, '\n 'where x is the source length'))\n group.add_argument('--min-len', default=1, type=float, metavar='N',\n help=('minimum generation length'))\n group.add_argument('--match-source-len', default=False, action='store_true',\n help=('generations should match the source length'))\n group.add_argument('--no-early-stop', action='store_true',\n help='deprecated')\n group.add_argument('--unnormalized', action='store_true',\n help='compare unnormalized hypothesis scores')\n group.add_argument('--no-beamable-mm', action='store_true',\n help='don\\'t use BeamableMM in attention layers')\n group.add_argument('--lenpen', default=1, type=float,\n help='length penalty: <1.0 favors shorter, >1.0 favors longer sentences')\n group.add_argument('--unkpen', default=0, type=float,\n help='unknown word penalty: <0 produces more unks, >0 produces fewer')\n group.add_argument('--replace-unk', nargs='?', const=True, default=None,\n help='perform unknown replacement (optionally with alignment dictionary)')\n group.add_argument('--sacrebleu', action='store_true',\n help='score with sacrebleu')\n group.add_argument('--score-reference', action='store_true',\n help='just score the reference translation')\n group.add_argument('--prefix-size', default=0, type=int, metavar='PS',\n help='initialize generation by target prefix of given length')\n group.add_argument('--no-repeat-ngram-size', default=0, type=int, metavar='N',\n help='ngram blocking such that this size ngram cannot be repeated in the generation')\n group.add_argument('--sampling', action='store_true',\n help='sample hypotheses instead of using beam search')\n group.add_argument('--sampling-topk', default=-1, type=int, metavar='PS',\n help='sample from top K likely next words instead of all words')\n group.add_argument('--sampling-topp', default=-1.0, type=float, metavar='PS',\n help='sample from the smallest set whose cumulative probability mass exceeds p for next words')\n group.add_argument('--temperature', default=1., type=float, metavar='N',\n help='temperature for generation')\n group.add_argument('--diverse-beam-groups', default=-1, type=int, metavar='N',\n help='number of groups for Diverse Beam Search')\n group.add_argument('--diverse-beam-strength', default=0.5, type=float, metavar='N',\n help='strength of diversity penalty for Diverse Beam Search')\n group.add_argument('--print-alignment', action='store_true',\n help='if set, uses attention feedback to compute and print alignment to source tokens')\n group.add_argument('--print-step', action='store_true')\n\n # arguments for iterative refinement generator\n group.add_argument('--iter-decode-eos-penalty', default=0.0, type=float, metavar='N',\n help='if > 0.0, it penalized early-stopping in decoding.')\n group.add_argument('--iter-decode-max-iter', default=10, type=int, metavar='N',\n help='maximum iterations for iterative refinement.')\n group.add_argument('--iter-decode-force-max-iter', action='store_true',\n help='if set, run exact the maximum number of iterations without early stop')\n group.add_argument('--retain-iter-history', action='store_true',\n help='if set, decoding returns the whole history of iterative refinement')\n\n # special decoding format for advanced decoding.\n group.add_argument('--decoding-format', default=None, type=str, choices=['unigram', 'ensemble', 'vote', 'dp', 'bs'])\n # fmt: on\n return group\n\n\ndef add_interactive_args(parser):\n group = parser.add_argument_group(\"Interactive\")\n # fmt: off\n group.add_argument('--buffer-size', default=0, type=int, metavar='N',\n help='read this many sentences into a buffer before processing them')\n group.add_argument('--input', default='-', type=str, metavar='FILE',\n help='file to read from; use - for stdin')\n # fmt: on\n\n\ndef add_model_args(parser):\n group = parser.add_argument_group(\"Model configuration\")\n # fmt: off\n\n # Model definitions can be found under fairseq/models/\n #\n # The model architecture can be specified in several ways.\n # In increasing order of priority:\n # 1) model defaults (lowest priority)\n # 2) --arch argument\n # 3) --encoder/decoder-* arguments (highest priority)\n from fairseq.models import ARCH_MODEL_REGISTRY\n group.add_argument('--arch', '-a', default='fconv', metavar='ARCH', required=True,\n choices=ARCH_MODEL_REGISTRY.keys(),\n help='Model Architecture')\n # fmt: on\n return group\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/pdb.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport multiprocessing\nimport os\nimport pdb\nimport sys\n\n\n__all__ = [\"set_trace\"]\n\n\n_stdin = [None]\n_stdin_lock = multiprocessing.Lock()\ntry:\n _stdin_fd = sys.stdin.fileno()\nexcept Exception:\n _stdin_fd = None\n\n\nclass MultiprocessingPdb(pdb.Pdb):\n \"\"\"A Pdb wrapper that works in a multiprocessing environment.\n\n Usage: `from fairseq import pdb; pdb.set_trace()`\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self):\n pdb.Pdb.__init__(self, nosigint=True)\n\n def _cmdloop(self):\n stdin_bak = sys.stdin\n with _stdin_lock:\n try:\n if _stdin_fd is not None:\n if not _stdin[0]:\n _stdin[0] = os.fdopen(_stdin_fd)\n sys.stdin = _stdin[0]\n self.cmdloop()\n finally:\n sys.stdin = stdin_bak\n\n\ndef set_trace():\n pdb = MultiprocessingPdb()\n pdb.set_trace(sys._getframe().f_back)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/progress_bar.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\n\"\"\"\nWrapper around various loggers and progress bars (e.g., tqdm).\n\"\"\"\n\nfrom collections import OrderedDict\nimport json\nfrom numbers import Number\nimport os\nimport sys\n\nfrom fairseq import distributed_utils\nfrom fairseq.meters import AverageMeter, StopwatchMeter, TimeMeter\n\n\ndef build_progress_bar(\n args, iterator, epoch=None, prefix=None, default=\"tqdm\", no_progress_bar=\"none\"\n):\n if args.log_format is None:\n args.log_format = no_progress_bar if args.no_progress_bar else default\n\n if args.log_format == \"tqdm\" and not sys.stderr.isatty():\n args.log_format = \"simple\"\n\n if args.log_format == \"json\":\n bar = json_progress_bar(iterator, epoch, prefix, args.log_interval)\n elif args.log_format == \"none\":\n bar = noop_progress_bar(iterator, epoch, prefix)\n elif args.log_format == \"simple\":\n bar = simple_progress_bar(iterator, epoch, prefix, args.log_interval)\n elif args.log_format == \"tqdm\":\n bar = tqdm_progress_bar(iterator, epoch, prefix)\n else:\n raise ValueError(\"Unknown log format: {}\".format(args.log_format))\n\n if args.tensorboard_logdir and distributed_utils.is_master(args):\n try:\n # [FB only] custom wrapper for TensorBoard\n import palaas # noqa\n from fairseq.fb_tbmf_wrapper import fb_tbmf_wrapper\n\n bar = fb_tbmf_wrapper(bar, args, args.log_interval)\n except ImportError:\n bar = tensorboard_log_wrapper(bar, args.tensorboard_logdir, args)\n\n return bar\n\n\ndef format_stat(stat):\n if isinstance(stat, Number):\n stat = \"{:g}\".format(stat)\n elif isinstance(stat, AverageMeter):\n stat = \"{:.3f}\".format(stat.avg)\n elif isinstance(stat, TimeMeter):\n stat = \"{:g}\".format(round(stat.avg))\n elif isinstance(stat, StopwatchMeter):\n stat = \"{:g}\".format(round(stat.sum))\n return stat\n\n\nclass progress_bar(object):\n \"\"\"Abstract class for progress bars.\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, iterable, epoch=None, prefix=None):\n self.iterable = iterable\n self.offset = getattr(iterable, \"offset\", 0)\n self.epoch = epoch\n self.prefix = \"\"\n if epoch is not None:\n self.prefix += \"| epoch {:03d}\".format(epoch)\n if prefix is not None:\n self.prefix += \" | {}\".format(prefix)\n\n def __len__(self):\n return len(self.iterable)\n\n def __enter__(self):\n return self\n\n def __exit__(self, *exc):\n return False\n\n def __iter__(self):\n raise NotImplementedError\n\n def log(self, stats, tag=\"\", step=None):\n \"\"\"Log intermediate stats according to log_interval.\"\"\"\n raise NotImplementedError\n\n def print(self, stats, tag=\"\", step=None):\n \"\"\"Print end-of-epoch stats.\"\"\"\n raise NotImplementedError\n\n def _str_commas(self, stats):\n return \", \".join(key + \"=\" + stats[key].strip() for key in stats.keys())\n\n def _str_pipes(self, stats):\n return \" | \".join(key + \" \" + stats[key].strip() for key in stats.keys())\n\n def _format_stats(self, stats):\n postfix = OrderedDict(stats)\n # Preprocess stats according to datatype\n for key in postfix.keys():\n postfix[key] = str(format_stat(postfix[key]))\n return postfix\n\n\nclass json_progress_bar(progress_bar):\n \"\"\"Log output in JSON format.\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, iterable, epoch=None, prefix=None, log_interval=1000):\n super().__init__(iterable, epoch, prefix)\n self.log_interval = log_interval\n self.stats = None\n\n def __iter__(self):\n size = float(len(self.iterable))\n for i, obj in enumerate(self.iterable, start=self.offset):\n yield obj\n if (\n self.stats is not None\n and i > 0\n and self.log_interval is not None\n and i % self.log_interval == 0\n ):\n update = (\n self.epoch - 1 + float(i / size) if self.epoch is not None else None\n )\n stats = self._format_stats(self.stats, epoch=self.epoch, update=update)\n print(json.dumps(stats), flush=True)\n\n def log(self, stats, tag=\"\", step=None):\n \"\"\"Log intermediate stats according to log_interval.\"\"\"\n self.stats = stats\n\n def print(self, stats, tag=\"\", step=None):\n \"\"\"Print end-of-epoch stats.\"\"\"\n self.stats = stats\n if tag != \"\":\n self.stats = OrderedDict(\n [(tag + \"_\" + k, v) for k, v in self.stats.items()]\n )\n stats = self._format_stats(self.stats, epoch=self.epoch)\n print(json.dumps(stats), flush=True)\n\n def _format_stats(self, stats, epoch=None, update=None):\n postfix = OrderedDict()\n if epoch is not None:\n postfix[\"epoch\"] = epoch\n if update is not None:\n postfix[\"update\"] = round(update, 3)\n # Preprocess stats according to datatype\n for key in stats.keys():\n postfix[key] = format_stat(stats[key])\n return postfix\n\n\nclass noop_progress_bar(progress_bar):\n \"\"\"No logging.\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, iterable, epoch=None, prefix=None):\n super().__init__(iterable, epoch, prefix)\n\n def __iter__(self):\n for obj in self.iterable:\n yield obj\n\n def log(self, stats, tag=\"\", step=None):\n \"\"\"Log intermediate stats according to log_interval.\"\"\"\n pass\n\n def print(self, stats, tag=\"\", step=None):\n \"\"\"Print end-of-epoch stats.\"\"\"\n pass\n\n\nclass simple_progress_bar(progress_bar):\n \"\"\"A minimal logger for non-TTY environments.\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, iterable, epoch=None, prefix=None, log_interval=1000):\n super().__init__(iterable, epoch, prefix)\n self.log_interval = log_interval\n self.stats = None\n\n def __iter__(self):\n size = len(self.iterable)\n for i, obj in enumerate(self.iterable, start=self.offset):\n yield obj\n if (\n self.stats is not None\n and i > 0\n and self.log_interval is not None\n and i % self.log_interval == 0\n ):\n postfix = self._str_commas(self.stats)\n print(\n \"{}: {:5d} / {:d} {}\".format(self.prefix, i, size, postfix),\n flush=True,\n )\n\n def log(self, stats, tag=\"\", step=None):\n \"\"\"Log intermediate stats according to log_interval.\"\"\"\n self.stats = self._format_stats(stats)\n\n def print(self, stats, tag=\"\", step=None):\n \"\"\"Print end-of-epoch stats.\"\"\"\n postfix = self._str_pipes(self._format_stats(stats))\n print(\"{} | {}\".format(self.prefix, postfix), flush=True)\n\n\nclass tqdm_progress_bar(progress_bar):\n \"\"\"Log to tqdm.\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, iterable, epoch=None, prefix=None):\n super().__init__(iterable, epoch, prefix)\n from tqdm import tqdm\n\n self.tqdm = tqdm(iterable, self.prefix, leave=False)\n\n def __iter__(self):\n return iter(self.tqdm)\n\n def log(self, stats, tag=\"\", step=None):\n \"\"\"Log intermediate stats according to log_interval.\"\"\"\n self.tqdm.set_postfix(self._format_stats(stats), refresh=False)\n\n def print(self, stats, tag=\"\", step=None):\n \"\"\"Print end-of-epoch stats.\"\"\"\n postfix = self._str_pipes(self._format_stats(stats))\n self.tqdm.write(\"{} | {}\".format(self.tqdm.desc, postfix))\n\n\nclass tensorboard_log_wrapper(progress_bar):\n \"\"\"Log to tensorboard.\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, wrapped_bar, tensorboard_logdir, args):\n self.wrapped_bar = wrapped_bar\n self.tensorboard_logdir = tensorboard_logdir\n self.args = args\n\n try:\n from tensorboardX import SummaryWriter\n\n self.SummaryWriter = SummaryWriter\n self._writers = {}\n except ImportError:\n print(\n \"tensorboard or required dependencies not found, \"\n \"please see README for using tensorboard. (e.g. pip install tensorboardX)\"\n )\n self.SummaryWriter = None\n\n def _writer(self, key):\n if self.SummaryWriter is None:\n return None\n if key not in self._writers:\n self._writers[key] = self.SummaryWriter(\n os.path.join(self.tensorboard_logdir, key),\n )\n self._writers[key].add_text(\"args\", str(vars(self.args)))\n self._writers[key].add_text(\"sys.argv\", \" \".join(sys.argv))\n return self._writers[key]\n\n def __iter__(self):\n return iter(self.wrapped_bar)\n\n def log(self, stats, tag=\"\", step=None):\n \"\"\"Log intermediate stats to tensorboard.\"\"\"\n self._log_to_tensorboard(stats, tag, step)\n self.wrapped_bar.log(stats, tag=tag, step=step)\n\n def print(self, stats, tag=\"\", step=None):\n \"\"\"Print end-of-epoch stats.\"\"\"\n self._log_to_tensorboard(stats, tag, step)\n self.wrapped_bar.print(stats, tag=tag, step=step)\n\n def __exit__(self, *exc):\n for writer in getattr(self, \"_writers\", {}).values():\n writer.close()\n return False\n\n def _log_to_tensorboard(self, stats, tag=\"\", step=None):\n writer = self._writer(tag)\n if writer is None:\n return\n if step is None:\n step = stats[\"num_updates\"]\n for key in stats.keys() - {\"num_updates\"}:\n if isinstance(stats[key], AverageMeter):\n writer.add_scalar(key, stats[key].val, step)\n elif isinstance(stats[key], Number):\n writer.add_scalar(key, stats[key], step)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/registry.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport argparse\n\n\nREGISTRIES = {}\n\n\ndef setup_registry(\n registry_name: str, base_class=None, default=None,\n):\n assert registry_name.startswith(\"--\")\n registry_name = registry_name[2:].replace(\"-\", \"_\")\n\n REGISTRY = {}\n REGISTRY_CLASS_NAMES = set()\n\n # maintain a registry of all registries\n if registry_name in REGISTRIES:\n return # registry already exists\n REGISTRIES[registry_name] = {\n \"registry\": REGISTRY,\n \"default\": default,\n }\n\n def build_x(args, *extra_args, **extra_kwargs):\n choice = getattr(args, registry_name, None)\n if choice is None:\n return None\n cls = REGISTRY[choice]\n if hasattr(cls, \"build_\" + registry_name):\n builder = getattr(cls, \"build_\" + registry_name)\n else:\n builder = cls\n set_defaults(args, cls)\n return builder(args, *extra_args, **extra_kwargs)\n\n def register_x(name):\n def register_x_cls(cls):\n if name in REGISTRY:\n raise ValueError(\n \"Cannot register duplicate {} ({})\".format(registry_name, name)\n )\n if cls.__name__ in REGISTRY_CLASS_NAMES:\n raise ValueError(\n \"Cannot register {} with duplicate class name ({})\".format(\n registry_name, cls.__name__,\n )\n )\n if base_class is not None and not issubclass(cls, base_class):\n raise ValueError(\n \"{} must extend {}\".format(cls.__name__, base_class.__name__)\n )\n REGISTRY[name] = cls\n REGISTRY_CLASS_NAMES.add(cls.__name__)\n return cls\n\n return register_x_cls\n\n return build_x, register_x, REGISTRY\n\n\ndef set_defaults(args, cls):\n \"\"\"Helper to set default arguments based on *add_args*.\"\"\"\n if not hasattr(cls, \"add_args\"):\n return\n parser = argparse.ArgumentParser(\n argument_default=argparse.SUPPRESS, allow_abbrev=False\n )\n cls.add_args(parser)\n # copied from argparse.py:\n defaults = argparse.Namespace()\n for action in parser._actions:\n if action.dest is not argparse.SUPPRESS:\n if not hasattr(defaults, action.dest):\n if action.default is not argparse.SUPPRESS:\n setattr(defaults, action.dest, action.default)\n for key, default_value in vars(defaults).items():\n if not hasattr(args, key):\n setattr(args, key, default_value)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/search.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport math\n\nimport torch\n\n\nclass Search(object):\n def __init__(self, tgt_dict):\n self.pad = tgt_dict.pad()\n self.unk = tgt_dict.unk()\n self.eos = tgt_dict.eos()\n self.vocab_size = len(tgt_dict)\n self.scores_buf = None\n self.indices_buf = None\n self.beams_buf = None\n\n def _init_buffers(self, t):\n if self.scores_buf is None:\n self.scores_buf = t.new()\n self.indices_buf = torch.LongTensor().to(device=t.device)\n self.beams_buf = torch.LongTensor().to(device=t.device)\n\n def step(self, step, lprobs, scores):\n \"\"\"Take a single search step.\n\n Args:\n step: the current search step, starting at 0\n lprobs: (bsz x input_beam_size x vocab_size)\n the model's log-probabilities over the vocabulary at the current step\n scores: (bsz x input_beam_size x step)\n the historical model scores of each hypothesis up to this point\n\n Return: A tuple of (scores, indices, beams) where:\n scores: (bsz x output_beam_size)\n the scores of the chosen elements; output_beam_size can be\n larger than input_beam_size, e.g., we may return\n 2*input_beam_size to account for EOS\n indices: (bsz x output_beam_size)\n the indices of the chosen elements\n beams: (bsz x output_beam_size)\n the hypothesis ids of the chosen elements, in the range [0, input_beam_size)\n \"\"\"\n raise NotImplementedError\n\n def set_src_lengths(self, src_lengths):\n self.src_lengths = src_lengths\n\n\nclass BeamSearch(Search):\n def __init__(self, tgt_dict):\n super().__init__(tgt_dict)\n\n def step(self, step, lprobs, scores):\n super()._init_buffers(lprobs)\n bsz, beam_size, vocab_size = lprobs.size()\n\n if step == 0:\n # at the first step all hypotheses are equally likely, so use\n # only the first beam\n lprobs = lprobs[:, ::beam_size, :].contiguous()\n else:\n # make probs contain cumulative scores for each hypothesis\n lprobs.add_(scores[:, :, step - 1].unsqueeze(-1))\n\n torch.topk(\n lprobs.view(bsz, -1),\n k=min(\n # Take the best 2 x beam_size predictions. We'll choose the first\n # beam_size of these which don't predict eos to continue with.\n beam_size * 2,\n lprobs.view(bsz, -1).size(1) - 1, # -1 so we never select pad\n ),\n out=(self.scores_buf, self.indices_buf),\n )\n torch.div(self.indices_buf, vocab_size, out=self.beams_buf)\n self.indices_buf.fmod_(vocab_size)\n return self.scores_buf, self.indices_buf, self.beams_buf\n\n\nclass LengthConstrainedBeamSearch(Search):\n def __init__(self, tgt_dict, min_len_a, min_len_b, max_len_a, max_len_b):\n super().__init__(tgt_dict)\n self.min_len_a = min_len_a\n self.min_len_b = min_len_b\n self.max_len_a = max_len_a\n self.max_len_b = max_len_b\n self.beam = BeamSearch(tgt_dict)\n\n def step(self, step, lprobs, scores):\n min_lens = self.min_len_a * self.src_lengths + self.min_len_b\n max_lens = self.max_len_a * self.src_lengths + self.max_len_b\n lprobs[step < min_lens, :, self.eos] = -math.inf\n lprobs[step == max_lens, :, self.eos] = 0\n lprobs[step > max_lens, :, self.eos] = -math.inf\n return self.beam.step(step, lprobs, scores)\n\n\nclass DiverseBeamSearch(Search):\n \"\"\"Diverse Beam Search.\n\n See \"Diverse Beam Search: Decoding Diverse Solutions from Neural Sequence\n Models\" for details.\n\n We only implement the Hamming Diversity penalty here, which performed best\n in the original paper.\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, tgt_dict, num_groups, diversity_strength):\n super().__init__(tgt_dict)\n self.num_groups = num_groups\n self.diversity_strength = -diversity_strength\n self.diversity_buf = None\n self.beam = BeamSearch(tgt_dict)\n\n def step(self, step, lprobs, scores):\n super()._init_buffers(lprobs)\n bsz, beam_size, vocab_size = lprobs.size()\n if beam_size % self.num_groups != 0:\n raise ValueError(\n \"DiverseBeamSearch requires --beam to be divisible by the number of groups\"\n )\n\n # initialize diversity penalty\n if self.diversity_buf is None:\n self.diversity_buf = lprobs.new()\n torch.zeros(lprobs[:, 0, :].size(), out=self.diversity_buf)\n\n scores_G, indices_G, beams_G = [], [], []\n for g in range(self.num_groups):\n lprobs_g = lprobs[:, g :: self.num_groups, :]\n scores_g = scores[:, g :: self.num_groups, :] if step > 0 else None\n\n # apply diversity penalty\n if g > 0:\n lprobs_g = torch.add(\n lprobs_g, self.diversity_strength, self.diversity_buf.unsqueeze(1)\n )\n else:\n lprobs_g = lprobs_g.contiguous()\n\n scores_buf, indices_buf, beams_buf = self.beam.step(\n step, lprobs_g, scores_g\n )\n beams_buf.mul_(self.num_groups).add_(g)\n\n scores_G.append(scores_buf.clone())\n indices_G.append(indices_buf.clone())\n beams_G.append(beams_buf.clone())\n\n # update diversity penalty\n self.diversity_buf.scatter_add_(\n 1, indices_buf, self.diversity_buf.new_ones(indices_buf.size())\n )\n\n # interleave results from different groups\n self.scores_buf = torch.stack(scores_G, dim=2, out=self.scores_buf).view(\n bsz, -1\n )\n self.indices_buf = torch.stack(indices_G, dim=2, out=self.indices_buf).view(\n bsz, -1\n )\n self.beams_buf = torch.stack(beams_G, dim=2, out=self.beams_buf).view(bsz, -1)\n return self.scores_buf, self.indices_buf, self.beams_buf\n\n\nclass Sampling(Search):\n def __init__(self, tgt_dict, sampling_topk=-1, sampling_topp=-1.0):\n super().__init__(tgt_dict)\n self.sampling_topk = sampling_topk\n self.sampling_topp = sampling_topp\n\n def _sample_topp(self, lprobs):\n \"\"\"Sample among the smallest set of elements whose cumulative probability mass exceeds p.\n\n See `\"The Curious Case of Neural Text Degeneration\"\n (Holtzman et al., 2019) <https://arxiv.org/abs/1904.09751>`_.\n\n Args:\n lprobs: (bsz x input_beam_size x vocab_size)\n the model's log-probabilities over the vocabulary at the current step\n\n Return: A tuple of (trimed_probs, truncated_indices) where:\n trimed_probs: (bsz x input_beam_size x ?)\n the model's probabilities over the elements selected to sample from. The\n width of the third dimension is determined by top-P.\n truncated_indices: (bsz x input_beam_size x ?)\n the indices of the chosen elements.\n \"\"\"\n probs = lprobs.exp_()\n\n # sort the last dimension (vocab dimension) in descending order\n sorted_probs, sorted_indices = probs.sort(descending=True)\n\n # compute a mask to indicate the words to be included in the top-P set.\n cumsum_probs = sorted_probs.cumsum(dim=2)\n mask = cumsum_probs.lt(self.sampling_topp)\n\n # note that mask was computed by 'lt'. One more word needs to be included\n # so that the cumulative probability mass can exceed p.\n cumsum_mask = mask.cumsum(dim=2)\n last_included = cumsum_mask[:, :, -1:]\n last_included.clamp_(0, mask.size()[2] - 1)\n mask = mask.scatter_(2, last_included, 1)\n\n # truncate unnecessary dims.\n max_dim = last_included.max()\n truncated_mask = mask[:, :, : max_dim + 1]\n truncated_probs = sorted_probs[:, :, : max_dim + 1]\n truncated_indices = sorted_indices[:, :, : max_dim + 1]\n\n # trim the words that are not in top-P by setting their probabilities\n # to 0, so that they would not be sampled later.\n trim_mask = ~truncated_mask\n trimed_probs = truncated_probs.masked_fill_(trim_mask, 0)\n return trimed_probs, truncated_indices\n\n def step(self, step, lprobs, scores):\n super()._init_buffers(lprobs)\n bsz, beam_size, vocab_size = lprobs.size()\n\n if step == 0:\n # at the first step all hypotheses are equally likely, so use\n # only the first beam\n lprobs = lprobs[:, ::beam_size, :].contiguous()\n\n # we exclude the first two vocab items, one of which is pad\n assert self.pad <= 1, \"sampling assumes the first two symbols can be ignored\"\n lprobs_nopad = lprobs[:, :, 2:]\n\n if self.sampling_topp > 0:\n # only sample from the smallest set of words whose cumulative probability mass exceeds p\n probs_nopad, top_indices = self._sample_topp(lprobs_nopad)\n elif self.sampling_topk > 0:\n # only sample from top-k candidates\n lprobs_nopad, top_indices = lprobs_nopad.topk(self.sampling_topk)\n probs_nopad = lprobs_nopad.exp_()\n else:\n probs_nopad = lprobs_nopad.exp_()\n\n # sample\n if step == 0:\n self.indices_buf = torch.multinomial(\n probs_nopad.view(bsz, -1),\n beam_size,\n replacement=True,\n out=self.indices_buf,\n ).view(bsz, beam_size)\n else:\n self.indices_buf = torch.multinomial(\n probs_nopad.view(bsz * beam_size, -1),\n 1,\n replacement=True,\n out=self.indices_buf,\n ).view(bsz, beam_size)\n\n if step == 0:\n # expand to beam size\n probs_nopad = probs_nopad.expand(bsz, beam_size, -1)\n\n # gather scores\n torch.gather(\n probs_nopad,\n dim=2,\n index=self.indices_buf.unsqueeze(-1),\n out=self.scores_buf,\n )\n self.scores_buf = self.scores_buf.log_().view(bsz, -1)\n\n # remap indices if using top-k or top-P sampling\n if self.sampling_topk > 0 or self.sampling_topp > 0:\n self.indices_buf = torch.gather(\n top_indices.expand(bsz, beam_size, -1),\n dim=2,\n index=self.indices_buf.unsqueeze(-1),\n ).squeeze(2)\n\n # remap indices since we excluded the first two vocab items\n self.indices_buf.add_(2)\n\n if step == 0:\n self.beams_buf = self.indices_buf.new_zeros(bsz, beam_size)\n else:\n self.beams_buf = torch.arange(0, beam_size, out=self.beams_buf).repeat(\n bsz, 1\n )\n # make scores cumulative\n self.scores_buf.add_(\n torch.gather(scores[:, :, step - 1], dim=1, index=self.beams_buf,)\n )\n\n return self.scores_buf, self.indices_buf, self.beams_buf\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/sequence_generator.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport math\n\nimport torch\n\nfrom fairseq import search, utils\nfrom fairseq.data import data_utils\nfrom fairseq.models import FairseqIncrementalDecoder\n\n\nclass SequenceGenerator(object):\n def __init__(\n self,\n tgt_dict,\n beam_size=1,\n max_len_a=0,\n max_len_b=200,\n min_len=1,\n normalize_scores=True,\n len_penalty=1.0,\n unk_penalty=0.0,\n retain_dropout=False,\n sampling=False,\n sampling_topk=-1,\n sampling_topp=-1.0,\n temperature=1.0,\n diverse_beam_groups=-1,\n diverse_beam_strength=0.5,\n match_source_len=False,\n no_repeat_ngram_size=0,\n ):\n \"\"\"Generates translations of a given source sentence.\n\n Args:\n tgt_dict (~fairseq.data.Dictionary): target dictionary\n beam_size (int, optional): beam width (default: 1)\n max_len_a/b (int, optional): generate sequences of maximum length\n ax + b, where x is the source length\n min_len (int, optional): the minimum length of the generated output\n (not including end-of-sentence)\n normalize_scores (bool, optional): normalize scores by the length\n of the output (default: True)\n len_penalty (float, optional): length penalty, where <1.0 favors\n shorter, >1.0 favors longer sentences (default: 1.0)\n unk_penalty (float, optional): unknown word penalty, where <0\n produces more unks, >0 produces fewer (default: 0.0)\n retain_dropout (bool, optional): use dropout when generating\n (default: False)\n sampling (bool, optional): sample outputs instead of beam search\n (default: False)\n sampling_topk (int, optional): only sample among the top-k choices\n at each step (default: -1)\n sampling_topp (float, optional): only sample among the smallest set\n of words whose cumulative probability mass exceeds p\n at each step (default: -1.0)\n temperature (float, optional): temperature, where values\n >1.0 produce more uniform samples and values <1.0 produce\n sharper samples (default: 1.0)\n diverse_beam_groups/strength (float, optional): parameters for\n Diverse Beam Search sampling\n match_source_len (bool, optional): outputs should match the source\n length (default: False)\n \"\"\"\n self.pad = tgt_dict.pad()\n self.unk = tgt_dict.unk()\n self.eos = tgt_dict.eos()\n self.vocab_size = len(tgt_dict)\n self.beam_size = beam_size\n # the max beam size is the dictionary size - 1, since we never select pad\n self.beam_size = min(beam_size, self.vocab_size - 1)\n self.max_len_a = max_len_a\n self.max_len_b = max_len_b\n self.min_len = min_len\n self.normalize_scores = normalize_scores\n self.len_penalty = len_penalty\n self.unk_penalty = unk_penalty\n self.retain_dropout = retain_dropout\n self.temperature = temperature\n self.match_source_len = match_source_len\n self.no_repeat_ngram_size = no_repeat_ngram_size\n assert sampling_topk < 0 or sampling, \"--sampling-topk requires --sampling\"\n assert sampling_topp < 0 or sampling, \"--sampling-topp requires --sampling\"\n assert temperature > 0, \"--temperature must be greater than 0\"\n\n if sampling:\n self.search = search.Sampling(tgt_dict, sampling_topk, sampling_topp)\n elif diverse_beam_groups > 0:\n self.search = search.DiverseBeamSearch(\n tgt_dict, diverse_beam_groups, diverse_beam_strength\n )\n elif match_source_len:\n self.search = search.LengthConstrainedBeamSearch(\n tgt_dict, min_len_a=1, min_len_b=0, max_len_a=1, max_len_b=0,\n )\n else:\n self.search = search.BeamSearch(tgt_dict)\n\n @torch.no_grad()\n def generate(self, models, sample, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Generate a batch of translations.\n\n Args:\n models (List[~fairseq.models.FairseqModel]): ensemble of models\n sample (dict): batch\n prefix_tokens (torch.LongTensor, optional): force decoder to begin\n with these tokens\n bos_token (int, optional): beginning of sentence token\n (default: self.eos)\n \"\"\"\n model = EnsembleModel(models)\n return self._generate(model, sample, **kwargs)\n\n @torch.no_grad()\n def _generate(self, model, sample, prefix_tokens=None, bos_token=None, **kwargs):\n if not self.retain_dropout:\n model.eval()\n\n # model.forward normally channels prev_output_tokens into the decoder\n # separately, but SequenceGenerator directly calls model.encoder\n encoder_input = {\n k: v for k, v in sample[\"net_input\"].items() if k != \"prev_output_tokens\"\n }\n\n src_tokens = encoder_input[\"src_tokens\"]\n src_lengths = (\n (src_tokens.ne(self.eos) & src_tokens.ne(self.pad)).long().sum(dim=1)\n )\n input_size = src_tokens.size()\n # batch dimension goes first followed by source lengths\n bsz = input_size[0]\n src_len = input_size[1]\n beam_size = self.beam_size\n\n if self.match_source_len:\n max_len = src_lengths.max().item()\n else:\n max_len = min(\n int(self.max_len_a * src_len + self.max_len_b),\n # exclude the EOS marker\n model.max_decoder_positions() - 1,\n )\n\n # compute the encoder output for each beam\n encoder_outs = model.forward_encoder(encoder_input)\n new_order = torch.arange(bsz).view(-1, 1).repeat(1, beam_size).view(-1)\n new_order = new_order.to(src_tokens.device).long()\n encoder_outs = model.reorder_encoder_out(encoder_outs, new_order)\n\n # initialize buffers\n scores = src_tokens.new(bsz * beam_size, max_len + 1).float().fill_(0)\n scores_buf = scores.clone()\n tokens = src_tokens.new(bsz * beam_size, max_len + 2).long().fill_(self.pad)\n tokens_buf = tokens.clone()\n tokens[:, 0] = self.eos if bos_token is None else bos_token\n attn, attn_buf = None, None\n\n # The blacklist indicates candidates that should be ignored.\n # For example, suppose we're sampling and have already finalized 2/5\n # samples. Then the blacklist would mark 2 positions as being ignored,\n # so that we only finalize the remaining 3 samples.\n blacklist = src_tokens.new_zeros(bsz, beam_size).eq(\n -1\n ) # forward and backward-compatible False mask\n\n # list of completed sentences\n finalized = [[] for i in range(bsz)]\n finished = [False for i in range(bsz)]\n num_remaining_sent = bsz\n\n # number of candidate hypos per step\n cand_size = 2 * beam_size # 2 x beam size in case half are EOS\n\n # offset arrays for converting between different indexing schemes\n bbsz_offsets = (torch.arange(0, bsz) * beam_size).unsqueeze(1).type_as(tokens)\n cand_offsets = torch.arange(0, cand_size).type_as(tokens)\n\n # helper function for allocating buffers on the fly\n buffers = {}\n\n def buffer(name, type_of=tokens): # noqa\n if name not in buffers:\n buffers[name] = type_of.new()\n return buffers[name]\n\n def is_finished(sent, step, unfin_idx):\n \"\"\"\n Check whether we've finished generation for a given sentence, by\n comparing the worst score among finalized hypotheses to the best\n possible score among unfinalized hypotheses.\n \"\"\"\n assert len(finalized[sent]) <= beam_size\n if len(finalized[sent]) == beam_size or step == max_len:\n return True\n return False\n\n def finalize_hypos(step, bbsz_idx, eos_scores):\n \"\"\"\n Finalize the given hypotheses at this step, while keeping the total\n number of finalized hypotheses per sentence <= beam_size.\n\n Note: the input must be in the desired finalization order, so that\n hypotheses that appear earlier in the input are preferred to those\n that appear later.\n\n Args:\n step: current time step\n bbsz_idx: A vector of indices in the range [0, bsz*beam_size),\n indicating which hypotheses to finalize\n eos_scores: A vector of the same size as bbsz_idx containing\n scores for each hypothesis\n \"\"\"\n assert bbsz_idx.numel() == eos_scores.numel()\n\n # clone relevant token and attention tensors\n tokens_clone = tokens.index_select(0, bbsz_idx)\n tokens_clone = tokens_clone[\n :, 1 : step + 2\n ] # skip the first index, which is EOS\n assert not tokens_clone.eq(self.eos).any()\n tokens_clone[:, step] = self.eos\n attn_clone = (\n attn.index_select(0, bbsz_idx)[:, :, 1 : step + 2]\n if attn is not None\n else None\n )\n\n # compute scores per token position\n pos_scores = scores.index_select(0, bbsz_idx)[:, : step + 1]\n pos_scores[:, step] = eos_scores\n # convert from cumulative to per-position scores\n pos_scores[:, 1:] = pos_scores[:, 1:] - pos_scores[:, :-1]\n\n # normalize sentence-level scores\n if self.normalize_scores:\n eos_scores /= (step + 1) ** self.len_penalty\n\n cum_unfin = []\n prev = 0\n for f in finished:\n if f:\n prev += 1\n else:\n cum_unfin.append(prev)\n\n sents_seen = set()\n for i, (idx, score) in enumerate(\n zip(bbsz_idx.tolist(), eos_scores.tolist())\n ):\n unfin_idx = idx // beam_size\n sent = unfin_idx + cum_unfin[unfin_idx]\n\n sents_seen.add((sent, unfin_idx))\n\n if self.match_source_len and step > src_lengths[unfin_idx]:\n score = -math.inf\n\n def get_hypo():\n\n if attn_clone is not None:\n # remove padding tokens from attn scores\n hypo_attn = attn_clone[i]\n else:\n hypo_attn = None\n\n return {\n \"tokens\": tokens_clone[i],\n \"score\": score,\n \"attention\": hypo_attn, # src_len x tgt_len\n \"alignment\": None,\n \"positional_scores\": pos_scores[i],\n }\n\n if len(finalized[sent]) < beam_size:\n finalized[sent].append(get_hypo())\n\n newly_finished = []\n for sent, unfin_idx in sents_seen:\n # check termination conditions for this sentence\n if not finished[sent] and is_finished(sent, step, unfin_idx):\n finished[sent] = True\n newly_finished.append(unfin_idx)\n return newly_finished\n\n reorder_state = None\n batch_idxs = None\n for step in range(max_len + 1): # one extra step for EOS marker\n # reorder decoder internal states based on the prev choice of beams\n if reorder_state is not None:\n if batch_idxs is not None:\n # update beam indices to take into account removed sentences\n corr = batch_idxs - torch.arange(batch_idxs.numel()).type_as(\n batch_idxs\n )\n reorder_state.view(-1, beam_size).add_(\n corr.unsqueeze(-1) * beam_size\n )\n model.reorder_incremental_state(reorder_state)\n encoder_outs = model.reorder_encoder_out(encoder_outs, reorder_state)\n\n lprobs, avg_attn_scores = model.forward_decoder(\n tokens[:, : step + 1], encoder_outs, temperature=self.temperature,\n )\n\n lprobs[:, self.pad] = -math.inf # never select pad\n lprobs[:, self.unk] -= self.unk_penalty # apply unk penalty\n\n # handle max length constraint\n if step >= max_len:\n lprobs[:, : self.eos] = -math.inf\n lprobs[:, self.eos + 1 :] = -math.inf\n\n # handle prefix tokens (possibly with different lengths)\n if (\n prefix_tokens is not None\n and step < prefix_tokens.size(1)\n and step < max_len\n ):\n prefix_toks = (\n prefix_tokens[:, step].unsqueeze(-1).repeat(1, beam_size).view(-1)\n )\n prefix_lprobs = lprobs.gather(-1, prefix_toks.unsqueeze(-1))\n prefix_mask = prefix_toks.ne(self.pad)\n lprobs[prefix_mask] = -math.inf\n lprobs[prefix_mask] = lprobs[prefix_mask].scatter_(\n -1,\n prefix_toks[prefix_mask].unsqueeze(-1),\n prefix_lprobs[prefix_mask],\n )\n # if prefix includes eos, then we should make sure tokens and\n # scores are the same across all beams\n eos_mask = prefix_toks.eq(self.eos)\n if eos_mask.any():\n # validate that the first beam matches the prefix\n first_beam = tokens[eos_mask].view(-1, beam_size, tokens.size(-1))[\n :, 0, 1 : step + 1\n ]\n eos_mask_batch_dim = eos_mask.view(-1, beam_size)[:, 0]\n target_prefix = prefix_tokens[eos_mask_batch_dim][:, :step]\n assert (first_beam == target_prefix).all()\n\n def replicate_first_beam(tensor, mask):\n tensor = tensor.view(-1, beam_size, tensor.size(-1))\n tensor[mask] = tensor[mask][:, :1, :]\n return tensor.view(-1, tensor.size(-1))\n\n # copy tokens, scores and lprobs from the first beam to all beams\n tokens = replicate_first_beam(tokens, eos_mask_batch_dim)\n scores = replicate_first_beam(scores, eos_mask_batch_dim)\n lprobs = replicate_first_beam(lprobs, eos_mask_batch_dim)\n elif step < self.min_len:\n # minimum length constraint (does not apply if using prefix_tokens)\n lprobs[:, self.eos] = -math.inf\n\n if self.no_repeat_ngram_size > 0:\n # for each beam and batch sentence, generate a list of previous ngrams\n gen_ngrams = [{} for bbsz_idx in range(bsz * beam_size)]\n for bbsz_idx in range(bsz * beam_size):\n gen_tokens = tokens[bbsz_idx].tolist()\n for ngram in zip(\n *[gen_tokens[i:] for i in range(self.no_repeat_ngram_size)]\n ):\n gen_ngrams[bbsz_idx][tuple(ngram[:-1])] = gen_ngrams[\n bbsz_idx\n ].get(tuple(ngram[:-1]), []) + [ngram[-1]]\n\n # Record attention scores\n if avg_attn_scores is not None:\n if attn is None:\n attn = scores.new(bsz * beam_size, src_tokens.size(1), max_len + 2)\n attn_buf = attn.clone()\n attn[:, :, step + 1].copy_(avg_attn_scores)\n\n scores = scores.type_as(lprobs)\n scores_buf = scores_buf.type_as(lprobs)\n eos_bbsz_idx = buffer(\"eos_bbsz_idx\")\n eos_scores = buffer(\"eos_scores\", type_of=scores)\n\n self.search.set_src_lengths(src_lengths)\n\n if self.no_repeat_ngram_size > 0:\n\n def calculate_banned_tokens(bbsz_idx):\n # before decoding the next token, prevent decoding of ngrams that have already appeared\n ngram_index = tuple(\n tokens[\n bbsz_idx, step + 2 - self.no_repeat_ngram_size : step + 1\n ].tolist()\n )\n return gen_ngrams[bbsz_idx].get(ngram_index, [])\n\n if step + 2 - self.no_repeat_ngram_size >= 0:\n # no banned tokens if we haven't generated no_repeat_ngram_size tokens yet\n banned_tokens = [\n calculate_banned_tokens(bbsz_idx)\n for bbsz_idx in range(bsz * beam_size)\n ]\n else:\n banned_tokens = [[] for bbsz_idx in range(bsz * beam_size)]\n\n for bbsz_idx in range(bsz * beam_size):\n lprobs[bbsz_idx, banned_tokens[bbsz_idx]] = -math.inf\n\n cand_scores, cand_indices, cand_beams = self.search.step(\n step,\n lprobs.view(bsz, -1, self.vocab_size),\n scores.view(bsz, beam_size, -1)[:, :, :step],\n )\n\n # cand_bbsz_idx contains beam indices for the top candidate\n # hypotheses, with a range of values: [0, bsz*beam_size),\n # and dimensions: [bsz, cand_size]\n cand_bbsz_idx = cand_beams.add(bbsz_offsets)\n\n # finalize hypotheses that end in eos, except for blacklisted ones\n # or candidates with a score of -inf\n eos_mask = cand_indices.eq(self.eos) & cand_scores.ne(-math.inf)\n eos_mask[:, :beam_size][blacklist] = 0\n\n # only consider eos when it's among the top beam_size indices\n torch.masked_select(\n cand_bbsz_idx[:, :beam_size],\n mask=eos_mask[:, :beam_size],\n out=eos_bbsz_idx,\n )\n\n finalized_sents = set()\n if eos_bbsz_idx.numel() > 0:\n torch.masked_select(\n cand_scores[:, :beam_size],\n mask=eos_mask[:, :beam_size],\n out=eos_scores,\n )\n finalized_sents = finalize_hypos(step, eos_bbsz_idx, eos_scores)\n num_remaining_sent -= len(finalized_sents)\n\n assert num_remaining_sent >= 0\n if num_remaining_sent == 0:\n break\n assert step < max_len\n\n if len(finalized_sents) > 0:\n new_bsz = bsz - len(finalized_sents)\n\n # construct batch_idxs which holds indices of batches to keep for the next pass\n batch_mask = cand_indices.new_ones(bsz)\n batch_mask[cand_indices.new(finalized_sents)] = 0\n batch_idxs = batch_mask.nonzero().squeeze(-1)\n\n eos_mask = eos_mask[batch_idxs]\n cand_beams = cand_beams[batch_idxs]\n bbsz_offsets.resize_(new_bsz, 1)\n cand_bbsz_idx = cand_beams.add(bbsz_offsets)\n cand_scores = cand_scores[batch_idxs]\n cand_indices = cand_indices[batch_idxs]\n if prefix_tokens is not None:\n prefix_tokens = prefix_tokens[batch_idxs]\n src_lengths = src_lengths[batch_idxs]\n blacklist = blacklist[batch_idxs]\n\n scores = scores.view(bsz, -1)[batch_idxs].view(new_bsz * beam_size, -1)\n scores_buf.resize_as_(scores)\n tokens = tokens.view(bsz, -1)[batch_idxs].view(new_bsz * beam_size, -1)\n tokens_buf.resize_as_(tokens)\n if attn is not None:\n attn = attn.view(bsz, -1)[batch_idxs].view(\n new_bsz * beam_size, attn.size(1), -1\n )\n attn_buf.resize_as_(attn)\n bsz = new_bsz\n else:\n batch_idxs = None\n\n # Set active_mask so that values > cand_size indicate eos or\n # blacklisted hypos and values < cand_size indicate candidate\n # active hypos. After this, the min values per row are the top\n # candidate active hypos.\n active_mask = buffer(\"active_mask\")\n eos_mask[:, :beam_size] |= blacklist\n torch.add(\n eos_mask.type_as(cand_offsets) * cand_size,\n cand_offsets[: eos_mask.size(1)],\n out=active_mask,\n )\n\n # get the top beam_size active hypotheses, which are just the hypos\n # with the smallest values in active_mask\n active_hypos, new_blacklist = (\n buffer(\"active_hypos\"),\n buffer(\"new_blacklist\"),\n )\n torch.topk(\n active_mask,\n k=beam_size,\n dim=1,\n largest=False,\n out=(new_blacklist, active_hypos),\n )\n\n # update blacklist to ignore any finalized hypos\n blacklist = new_blacklist.ge(cand_size)[:, :beam_size]\n assert (~blacklist).any(dim=1).all()\n\n active_bbsz_idx = buffer(\"active_bbsz_idx\")\n torch.gather(\n cand_bbsz_idx, dim=1, index=active_hypos, out=active_bbsz_idx,\n )\n active_scores = torch.gather(\n cand_scores,\n dim=1,\n index=active_hypos,\n out=scores[:, step].view(bsz, beam_size),\n )\n\n active_bbsz_idx = active_bbsz_idx.view(-1)\n active_scores = active_scores.view(-1)\n\n # copy tokens and scores for active hypotheses\n torch.index_select(\n tokens[:, : step + 1],\n dim=0,\n index=active_bbsz_idx,\n out=tokens_buf[:, : step + 1],\n )\n torch.gather(\n cand_indices,\n dim=1,\n index=active_hypos,\n out=tokens_buf.view(bsz, beam_size, -1)[:, :, step + 1],\n )\n if step > 0:\n torch.index_select(\n scores[:, :step],\n dim=0,\n index=active_bbsz_idx,\n out=scores_buf[:, :step],\n )\n torch.gather(\n cand_scores,\n dim=1,\n index=active_hypos,\n out=scores_buf.view(bsz, beam_size, -1)[:, :, step],\n )\n\n # copy attention for active hypotheses\n if attn is not None:\n torch.index_select(\n attn[:, :, : step + 2],\n dim=0,\n index=active_bbsz_idx,\n out=attn_buf[:, :, : step + 2],\n )\n\n # swap buffers\n tokens, tokens_buf = tokens_buf, tokens\n scores, scores_buf = scores_buf, scores\n if attn is not None:\n attn, attn_buf = attn_buf, attn\n\n # reorder incremental state in decoder\n reorder_state = active_bbsz_idx\n\n # sort by score descending\n for sent in range(len(finalized)):\n finalized[sent] = sorted(\n finalized[sent], key=lambda r: r[\"score\"], reverse=True\n )\n return finalized\n\n\nclass EnsembleModel(torch.nn.Module):\n \"\"\"A wrapper around an ensemble of models.\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, models):\n super().__init__()\n self.models = torch.nn.ModuleList(models)\n self.incremental_states = None\n if all(isinstance(m.decoder, FairseqIncrementalDecoder) for m in models):\n self.incremental_states = {m: {} for m in models}\n\n def has_encoder(self):\n return hasattr(self.models[0], \"encoder\")\n\n def max_decoder_positions(self):\n return min(m.max_decoder_positions() for m in self.models)\n\n @torch.no_grad()\n def forward_encoder(self, encoder_input):\n if not self.has_encoder():\n return None\n return [model.encoder(**encoder_input) for model in self.models]\n\n @torch.no_grad()\n def forward_decoder(self, tokens, encoder_outs, temperature=1.0):\n if len(self.models) == 1:\n return self._decode_one(\n tokens,\n self.models[0],\n encoder_outs[0] if self.has_encoder() else None,\n self.incremental_states,\n log_probs=True,\n temperature=temperature,\n )\n\n log_probs = []\n avg_attn = None\n for model, encoder_out in zip(self.models, encoder_outs):\n probs, attn = self._decode_one(\n tokens,\n model,\n encoder_out,\n self.incremental_states,\n log_probs=True,\n temperature=temperature,\n )\n log_probs.append(probs)\n if attn is not None:\n if avg_attn is None:\n avg_attn = attn\n else:\n avg_attn.add_(attn)\n avg_probs = torch.logsumexp(torch.stack(log_probs, dim=0), dim=0) - math.log(\n len(self.models)\n )\n if avg_attn is not None:\n avg_attn.div_(len(self.models))\n return avg_probs, avg_attn\n\n def _decode_one(\n self,\n tokens,\n model,\n encoder_out,\n incremental_states,\n log_probs,\n temperature=1.0,\n ):\n if self.incremental_states is not None:\n decoder_out = list(\n model.forward_decoder(\n tokens,\n encoder_out=encoder_out,\n incremental_state=self.incremental_states[model],\n )\n )\n else:\n decoder_out = list(model.forward_decoder(tokens, encoder_out=encoder_out))\n decoder_out[0] = decoder_out[0][:, -1:, :]\n if temperature != 1.0:\n decoder_out[0].div_(temperature)\n attn = decoder_out[1]\n if type(attn) is dict:\n attn = attn.get(\"attn\", None)\n if attn is not None:\n attn = attn[:, -1, :]\n probs = model.get_normalized_probs(decoder_out, log_probs=log_probs)\n probs = probs[:, -1, :]\n return probs, attn\n\n def reorder_encoder_out(self, encoder_outs, new_order):\n if not self.has_encoder():\n return\n return [\n model.encoder.reorder_encoder_out(encoder_out, new_order)\n for model, encoder_out in zip(self.models, encoder_outs)\n ]\n\n def reorder_incremental_state(self, new_order):\n if self.incremental_states is None:\n return\n for model in self.models:\n model.decoder.reorder_incremental_state(\n self.incremental_states[model], new_order\n )\n\n\nclass SequenceGeneratorWithAlignment(SequenceGenerator):\n def __init__(self, tgt_dict, left_pad_target=False, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Generates translations of a given source sentence.\n\n Produces alignments following \"Jointly Learning to Align and\n Translate with Transformer Models\" (Garg et al., EMNLP 2019).\n\n Args:\n left_pad_target (bool, optional): Whether or not the\n hypothesis should be left padded or not when they are\n teacher forced for generating alignments.\n \"\"\"\n super().__init__(tgt_dict, **kwargs)\n self.left_pad_target = left_pad_target\n\n @torch.no_grad()\n def generate(self, models, sample, **kwargs):\n model = EnsembleModelWithAlignment(models)\n finalized = super()._generate(model, sample, **kwargs)\n\n src_tokens = sample[\"net_input\"][\"src_tokens\"]\n bsz = src_tokens.shape[0]\n beam_size = self.beam_size\n (\n src_tokens,\n src_lengths,\n prev_output_tokens,\n tgt_tokens,\n ) = self._prepare_batch_for_alignment(sample, finalized)\n if any(getattr(m, \"full_context_alignment\", False) for m in model.models):\n attn = model.forward_align(src_tokens, src_lengths, prev_output_tokens)\n else:\n attn = [\n finalized[i // beam_size][i % beam_size][\"attention\"].transpose(1, 0)\n for i in range(bsz * beam_size)\n ]\n\n # Process the attn matrix to extract hard alignments.\n for i in range(bsz * beam_size):\n alignment = utils.extract_hard_alignment(\n attn[i], src_tokens[i], tgt_tokens[i], self.pad, self.eos\n )\n finalized[i // beam_size][i % beam_size][\"alignment\"] = alignment\n return finalized\n\n def _prepare_batch_for_alignment(self, sample, hypothesis):\n src_tokens = sample[\"net_input\"][\"src_tokens\"]\n bsz = src_tokens.shape[0]\n src_tokens = (\n src_tokens[:, None, :]\n .expand(-1, self.beam_size, -1)\n .contiguous()\n .view(bsz * self.beam_size, -1)\n )\n src_lengths = sample[\"net_input\"][\"src_lengths\"]\n src_lengths = (\n src_lengths[:, None]\n .expand(-1, self.beam_size)\n .contiguous()\n .view(bsz * self.beam_size)\n )\n prev_output_tokens = data_utils.collate_tokens(\n [beam[\"tokens\"] for example in hypothesis for beam in example],\n self.pad,\n self.eos,\n self.left_pad_target,\n move_eos_to_beginning=True,\n )\n tgt_tokens = data_utils.collate_tokens(\n [beam[\"tokens\"] for example in hypothesis for beam in example],\n self.pad,\n self.eos,\n self.left_pad_target,\n move_eos_to_beginning=False,\n )\n return src_tokens, src_lengths, prev_output_tokens, tgt_tokens\n\n\nclass EnsembleModelWithAlignment(EnsembleModel):\n \"\"\"A wrapper around an ensemble of models.\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, models):\n super().__init__(models)\n\n def forward_align(self, src_tokens, src_lengths, prev_output_tokens):\n avg_attn = None\n for model in self.models:\n decoder_out = model(src_tokens, src_lengths, prev_output_tokens)\n attn = decoder_out[1][\"attn\"]\n if avg_attn is None:\n avg_attn = attn\n else:\n avg_attn.add_(attn)\n if len(self.models) > 1:\n avg_attn.div_(len(self.models))\n return avg_attn\n\n def _decode_one(\n self,\n tokens,\n model,\n encoder_out,\n incremental_states,\n log_probs,\n temperature=1.0,\n ):\n if self.incremental_states is not None:\n decoder_out = list(\n model.forward_decoder(\n tokens,\n encoder_out=encoder_out,\n incremental_state=self.incremental_states[model],\n )\n )\n else:\n decoder_out = list(model.forward_decoder(tokens, encoder_out=encoder_out))\n decoder_out[0] = decoder_out[0][:, -1:, :]\n if temperature != 1.0:\n decoder_out[0].div_(temperature)\n attn = decoder_out[1]\n if type(attn) is dict:\n attn = attn.get(\"attn\", None)\n if attn is not None:\n attn = attn[:, -1, :]\n probs = model.get_normalized_probs(decoder_out, log_probs=log_probs)\n probs = probs[:, -1, :]\n return probs, attn\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/sequence_scorer.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\nimport sys\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\n\n\nclass SequenceScorer(object):\n \"\"\"Scores the target for a given source sentence.\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, tgt_dict, softmax_batch=None):\n self.pad = tgt_dict.pad()\n self.eos = tgt_dict.eos()\n self.softmax_batch = softmax_batch or sys.maxsize\n assert self.softmax_batch > 0\n\n @torch.no_grad()\n def generate(self, models, sample, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Score a batch of translations.\"\"\"\n net_input = sample[\"net_input\"]\n\n def batch_for_softmax(dec_out, target):\n # assumes decoder_out[0] is the only thing needed (may not be correct for future models!)\n first, rest = dec_out[0], dec_out[1:]\n bsz, tsz, dim = first.shape\n if bsz * tsz < self.softmax_batch:\n yield dec_out, target, True\n else:\n flat = first.contiguous().view(1, -1, dim)\n flat_tgt = target.contiguous().view(flat.shape[:-1])\n s = 0\n while s < flat.size(1):\n e = s + self.softmax_batch\n yield (flat[:, s:e],) + rest, flat_tgt[:, s:e], False\n s = e\n\n def gather_target_probs(probs, target):\n probs = probs.gather(dim=2, index=target.unsqueeze(-1),)\n return probs\n\n orig_target = sample[\"target\"]\n\n # compute scores for each model in the ensemble\n avg_probs = None\n avg_attn = None\n for model in models:\n model.eval()\n decoder_out = model.forward(**net_input)\n attn = decoder_out[1]\n if type(attn) is dict:\n attn = attn.get(\"attn\", None)\n\n batched = batch_for_softmax(decoder_out, orig_target)\n probs, idx = None, 0\n for bd, tgt, is_single in batched:\n sample[\"target\"] = tgt\n curr_prob = model.get_normalized_probs(\n bd, log_probs=len(models) == 1, sample=sample\n ).data\n if is_single:\n probs = gather_target_probs(curr_prob, orig_target)\n else:\n if probs is None:\n probs = curr_prob.new(orig_target.numel())\n step = curr_prob.size(0) * curr_prob.size(1)\n end = step + idx\n tgt_probs = gather_target_probs(\n curr_prob.view(tgt.shape + (curr_prob.size(-1),)), tgt\n )\n probs[idx:end] = tgt_probs.view(-1)\n idx = end\n sample[\"target\"] = orig_target\n\n probs = probs.view(sample[\"target\"].shape)\n\n if avg_probs is None:\n avg_probs = probs\n else:\n avg_probs.add_(probs)\n if attn is not None and torch.is_tensor(attn):\n attn = attn.data\n if avg_attn is None:\n avg_attn = attn\n else:\n avg_attn.add_(attn)\n if len(models) > 1:\n avg_probs.div_(len(models))\n avg_probs.log_()\n if avg_attn is not None:\n avg_attn.div_(len(models))\n\n bsz = avg_probs.size(0)\n hypos = []\n start_idxs = sample[\"start_indices\"] if \"start_indices\" in sample else [0] * bsz\n for i in range(bsz):\n # remove padding from ref\n ref = (\n utils.strip_pad(sample[\"target\"][i, start_idxs[i] :], self.pad)\n if sample[\"target\"] is not None\n else None\n )\n tgt_len = ref.numel()\n avg_probs_i = avg_probs[i][start_idxs[i] : start_idxs[i] + tgt_len]\n score_i = avg_probs_i.sum() / tgt_len\n if avg_attn is not None:\n avg_attn_i = avg_attn[i]\n alignment = utils.extract_hard_alignment(\n avg_attn_i,\n sample[\"net_input\"][\"src_tokens\"][i],\n sample[\"target\"][i],\n self.pad,\n self.eos,\n )\n else:\n avg_attn_i = alignment = None\n hypos.append(\n [\n {\n \"tokens\": ref,\n \"score\": score_i,\n \"attention\": avg_attn_i,\n \"alignment\": alignment,\n \"positional_scores\": avg_probs_i,\n }\n ]\n )\n return hypos\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/tasks/__init__.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport argparse\nimport importlib\nimport os\n\nfrom .fairseq_task import FairseqTask\n\nTASK_REGISTRY = {}\nTASK_CLASS_NAMES = set()\n\n\ndef setup_task(args, **kwargs):\n return TASK_REGISTRY[args.task].setup_task(args, **kwargs)\n\n\ndef register_task(name):\n \"\"\"\n New tasks can be added to fairseq with the\n :func:`~fairseq.tasks.register_task` function decorator.\n\n For example::\n\n @register_task('classification')\n class ClassificationTask(FairseqTask):\n (...)\n\n .. note::\n\n All Tasks must implement the :class:`~fairseq.tasks.FairseqTask`\n interface.\n\n Please see the\n\n Args:\n name (str): the name of the task\n \"\"\"\n\n def register_task_cls(cls):\n if name in TASK_REGISTRY:\n raise ValueError(\"Cannot register duplicate task ({})\".format(name))\n if not issubclass(cls, FairseqTask):\n raise ValueError(\n \"Task ({}: {}) must extend FairseqTask\".format(name, cls.__name__)\n )\n if cls.__name__ in TASK_CLASS_NAMES:\n raise ValueError(\n \"Cannot register task with duplicate class name ({})\".format(\n cls.__name__\n )\n )\n TASK_REGISTRY[name] = cls\n TASK_CLASS_NAMES.add(cls.__name__)\n return cls\n\n return register_task_cls\n\n\n# automatically import any Python files in the tasks/ directory\nfor file in os.listdir(os.path.dirname(__file__)):\n if file.endswith(\".py\") and not file.startswith(\"_\"):\n task_name = file[: file.find(\".py\")]\n importlib.import_module(\"fairseq.tasks.\" + task_name)\n\n # expose `task_parser` for sphinx\n if task_name in TASK_REGISTRY:\n parser = argparse.ArgumentParser(add_help=False)\n group_task = parser.add_argument_group(\"Task name\")\n # fmt: off\n group_task.add_argument('--task', metavar=task_name,\n help='Enable this task with: ``--task=' + task_name + '``')\n # fmt: on\n group_args = parser.add_argument_group(\"Additional command-line arguments\")\n TASK_REGISTRY[task_name].add_args(group_args)\n globals()[task_name + \"_parser\"] = parser\n\n\ndef get_task(name):\n return TASK_REGISTRY[name]\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/tasks/audio_pretraining.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport os\n\nfrom fairseq.data import FileAudioDataset\nfrom . import FairseqTask, register_task\n\n\n@register_task(\"audio_pretraining\")\nclass AudioPretrainingTask(FairseqTask):\n \"\"\"\n\n \"\"\"\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add task-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n parser.add_argument(\"data\", help=\"path to data directory\")\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--sample-rate\",\n default=16000,\n type=int,\n help=\"target sample rate. audio files will be up/down sampled to this rate\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--max-sample-size\",\n default=None,\n type=int,\n help=\"max sample size to crop to for batching. default = min sample length\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--min-sample-size\",\n default=None,\n type=int,\n help=\"min sample size to crop to for batching. default = same as --max-sample-size\",\n )\n\n def __init__(self, args):\n super().__init__(args)\n\n @classmethod\n def setup_task(cls, args, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Setup the task (e.g., load dictionaries).\n\n Args:\n args (argparse.Namespace): parsed command-line arguments\n \"\"\"\n return cls(args)\n\n def load_dataset(self, split, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Load a given dataset split.\n\n Args:\n split (str): name of the split (e.g., train, valid, test)\n \"\"\"\n\n manifest = os.path.join(self.args.data, \"{}.tsv\".format(split))\n self.datasets[split] = FileAudioDataset(\n manifest,\n sample_rate=self.args.sample_rate,\n max_sample_size=self.args.max_sample_size,\n min_sample_size=self.args.min_sample_size,\n )\n\n @property\n def target_dictionary(self):\n \"\"\"Return the :class:`~fairseq.data.Dictionary` for the language\n model.\"\"\"\n return None\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/tasks/cross_lingual_lm.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport itertools\nimport os\n\nfrom collections import OrderedDict\n\nimport numpy as np\n\nfrom fairseq import tokenizer\nfrom fairseq.data.legacy.masked_lm_dictionary import MaskedLMDictionary\n\nfrom fairseq.data import (\n ConcatDataset,\n data_utils,\n TokenBlockDataset,\n)\n\nfrom fairseq.data import Dictionary\nfrom fairseq.data.legacy.masked_lm_dataset import MaskedLMDataset\nfrom fairseq.data.multi_corpus_sampled_dataset import MultiCorpusSampledDataset\n\nfrom . import FairseqTask, register_task\n\n\n@register_task(\"cross_lingual_lm\")\nclass CrossLingualLMTask(FairseqTask):\n \"\"\"\n Task for training cross-lingual language models.\n For more details look at: https://arxiv.org/pdf/1901.07291.pdf\n Args:\n dictionary (Dictionary): the dictionary for the input of the task\n \"\"\"\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add task-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n parser.add_argument(\n \"data\",\n help=\"colon separated path to data directories list, \\\n will be iterated upon during epochs in round-robin manner\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--tokens-per-sample\",\n default=512,\n type=int,\n help=\"max number of total tokens over all segments\" \" per sample\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--monolingual-langs\",\n default=\"en\",\n type=str,\n help=\"comma separated list of languages for which we\"\n \" want to train XLM on\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--raw-text\",\n default=False,\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"load raw text dataset\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--lazy-load\", action=\"store_true\", help=\"load the dataset lazily\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--shuffle\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"shuffle each monolingual dataset while\" \" training\",\n )\n\n def __init__(self, args, dictionary):\n super().__init__(args)\n self.dictionary = dictionary\n self.seed = args.seed\n self.distributed_world_size = args.distributed_world_size\n self.langs2id = self._lang_to_id(args.monolingual_langs)\n\n def _lang_to_id(self, languages: str):\n \"\"\"\n Build a map from languages to ids. These ids are used as segment labels\n for cross-lingual LM training.\n \"\"\"\n lang2id = {}\n langs = [l.strip() for l in languages.split(\",\")]\n for id, lang in enumerate(langs):\n lang2id[lang] = id\n return lang2id\n\n @classmethod\n def load_dictionary(cls, filename):\n return MaskedLMDictionary.load(filename)\n\n @classmethod\n def build_dictionary(\n cls, filenames, workers=1, threshold=-1, nwords=-1, padding_factor=8\n ):\n d = MaskedLMDictionary()\n for filename in filenames:\n Dictionary.add_file_to_dictionary(\n filename, d, tokenizer.tokenize_line, workers\n )\n d.finalize(threshold=threshold, nwords=nwords, padding_factor=padding_factor)\n return d\n\n @property\n def target_dictionary(self):\n return self.dictionary\n\n @classmethod\n def setup_task(cls, args, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Setup the task.\n \"\"\"\n dictionary = MaskedLMDictionary.load(os.path.join(args.data, \"dict.txt\"))\n\n print(\"| dictionary: {} types\".format(len(dictionary)))\n\n return cls(args, dictionary)\n\n def _load_single_lang_dataset(self, split, epoch):\n loaded_datasets = []\n\n paths = self.args.data.split(\":\")\n assert len(paths) > 0\n data_path = paths[epoch % len(paths)]\n\n for k in itertools.count():\n split_k = split + (str(k) if k > 0 else \"\")\n path = os.path.join(data_path, split_k)\n\n ds = data_utils.load_indexed_dataset(\n path, self.dictionary, self.args.dataset_impl\n )\n if ds is None:\n if k > 0:\n break\n else:\n raise FileNotFoundError(\n \"Dataset not found: {} ({})\".format(split, data_path)\n )\n\n # Since we append each block with the classification_token,\n # we need to effectively create blocks of length\n # tokens_per_sample-1\n loaded_datasets.append(\n TokenBlockDataset(\n ds,\n ds.sizes,\n self.args.tokens_per_sample - 1,\n pad=self.dictionary.pad(),\n eos=self.dictionary.eos(),\n )\n )\n\n print(\n \"| {} {} {} examples\".format(\n data_path, split_k, len(loaded_datasets[-1])\n )\n )\n\n if len(loaded_datasets) == 1:\n dataset = loaded_datasets[0]\n sizes = dataset.sizes\n else:\n dataset = ConcatDataset(loaded_datasets)\n sizes = np.concatenate([ds.sizes for ds in loaded_datasets])\n\n return dataset, sizes\n\n def load_dataset(self, split, epoch=0, combine=False, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Load a given dataset split.\n Args:\n split (str): name of the split (e.g., train, valid, test)\n \"\"\"\n\n dataset_map = OrderedDict()\n\n for lang in self.langs2id.keys():\n # Datasets are expected to be in \"split.lang\" format (Eg: train.en)\n language_split = \"{}.{}\".format(split, lang)\n\n block_dataset, sizes = self._load_single_lang_dataset(\n split=language_split, epoch=epoch\n )\n\n dataset_map[lang] = MaskedLMDataset(\n dataset=block_dataset,\n sizes=sizes,\n vocab=self.dictionary,\n pad_idx=self.dictionary.pad(),\n mask_idx=self.dictionary.mask(),\n classif_token_idx=self.dictionary.eos(),\n sep_token_idx=self.dictionary.eos(),\n shuffle=getattr(self.args, \"shuffle\", False),\n has_pairs=False,\n segment_id=self.langs2id[lang],\n seed=self.seed,\n )\n\n self.datasets[split] = MultiCorpusSampledDataset(dataset_map)\n print(\n \"| {} {} {} examples\".format(\n self.args.data.split(\":\")[epoch], split, len(self.datasets[split])\n )\n )\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/tasks/denoising.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport os\n\nfrom fairseq.data import (\n data_utils,\n Dictionary,\n AppendTokenDataset,\n DenoisingDataset,\n PrependTokenDataset,\n StripTokenDataset,\n TokenBlockDataset,\n)\n\nfrom fairseq.data.encoders.utils import get_whole_word_mask\nfrom . import FairseqTask, register_task\n\n\n@register_task(\"denoising\")\nclass DenoisingTask(FairseqTask):\n \"\"\"\n Denoising task for applying sequence to sequence denoising. (ie. BART)\n \"\"\"\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add task-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n parser.add_argument(\"data\", help=\"path to data directory\")\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--tokens-per-sample\",\n default=512,\n type=int,\n help=\"max number of total tokens over all segments\"\n \" per sample for dataset\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--raw-text\",\n default=False,\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"load raw text dataset\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--sample-break-mode\",\n default=\"complete_doc\",\n type=str,\n help=\"mode for breaking sentence\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--mask\",\n default=0.0,\n type=float,\n help=\"fraction of words/subwords that will be masked\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--mask-random\",\n default=0.0,\n type=float,\n help=\"instead of using [MASK], use random token this often\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--insert\",\n default=0.0,\n type=float,\n help=\"insert this percentage of additional random tokens\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--permute\",\n default=0.0,\n type=float,\n help=\"take this proportion of subwords and permute them\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--rotate\",\n default=0.5,\n type=float,\n help=\"rotate this proportion of inputs\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--poisson-lambda\",\n default=3.0,\n type=float,\n help=\"randomly shuffle sentences for this proportion of inputs\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--permute-sentences\",\n default=0.0,\n type=float,\n help=\"shuffle this proportion of sentences in all inputs\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--mask-length\",\n default=\"subword\",\n type=str,\n choices=[\"subword\", \"word\", \"span-poisson\"],\n help=\"mask length to choose\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--replace-length\",\n default=-1,\n type=int,\n help=\"when masking N tokens, replace with 0, 1, or N tokens (use -1 for N)\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--max-source-positions\",\n default=1024,\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"max number of tokens in the source sequence\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--max-target-positions\",\n default=1024,\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"max number of tokens in the target sequence\",\n )\n\n def __init__(self, args, dictionary):\n super().__init__(args)\n self.dictionary = dictionary\n self.seed = args.seed\n\n # add mask token\n self.mask_idx = self.dictionary.add_symbol(\"<mask>\")\n\n @classmethod\n def setup_task(cls, args, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Setup the task.\n \"\"\"\n dictionary = Dictionary.load(os.path.join(args.data, \"dict.txt\"))\n print(\"| dictionary: {} types\".format(len(dictionary)))\n if not hasattr(args, \"shuffle_instance\"):\n args.shuffle_instance = False\n return cls(args, dictionary)\n\n def load_dataset(self, split, epoch=0, combine=False, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Load a given dataset split.\n\n Args:\n split (str): name of the split (e.g., train, valid, test)\n \"\"\"\n\n paths = self.args.data.split(\":\")\n assert len(paths) > 0\n data_path = paths[epoch % len(paths)]\n split_path = os.path.join(data_path, split)\n\n dataset = data_utils.load_indexed_dataset(\n split_path, self.dictionary, self.args.dataset_impl, combine=combine,\n )\n if dataset is None:\n raise FileNotFoundError(\n \"Dataset not found: {} ({})\".format(split, split_path)\n )\n\n dataset = StripTokenDataset(dataset, self.dictionary.eos())\n\n # create continuous blocks of tokens\n dataset = TokenBlockDataset(\n dataset,\n dataset.sizes,\n self.args.tokens_per_sample - 2, # one less for <s> and one for </s>\n pad=self.dictionary.pad(),\n eos=self.dictionary.eos(),\n break_mode=self.args.sample_break_mode,\n document_sep_len=0,\n )\n\n # prepend beginning-of-sentence token (<s>, equiv. to [CLS] in BERT)\n dataset = PrependTokenDataset(dataset, self.source_dictionary.bos())\n dataset = AppendTokenDataset(dataset, self.source_dictionary.eos())\n\n mask_whole_words = (\n get_whole_word_mask(self.args, self.source_dictionary)\n if self.args.mask_length != \"subword\"\n else None\n )\n\n self.datasets[split] = DenoisingDataset(\n dataset,\n dataset.sizes,\n self.dictionary,\n self.mask_idx,\n mask_whole_words,\n shuffle=self.args.shuffle_instance,\n seed=self.seed,\n args=self.args,\n )\n print(\n \"| Split: {0}, Loaded {1} samples of denoising_dataset\".format(\n split, len(self.datasets[split]),\n )\n )\n\n def max_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Return the max sentence length allowed by the task.\"\"\"\n return (self.args.max_source_positions, self.args.max_target_positions)\n\n @property\n def source_dictionary(self):\n \"\"\"Return the source :class:`~fairseq.data.Dictionary`.\"\"\"\n return self.dictionary\n\n @property\n def target_dictionary(self):\n \"\"\"Return the target :class:`~fairseq.data.Dictionary`.\"\"\"\n return self.dictionary\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/tasks/fairseq_task.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\n\nfrom fairseq import tokenizer\nfrom fairseq.data import (\n data_utils,\n FairseqDataset,\n iterators,\n Dictionary,\n)\n\n\nclass FairseqTask(object):\n \"\"\"\n Tasks store dictionaries and provide helpers for loading/iterating over\n Datasets, initializing the Model/Criterion and calculating the loss.\n \"\"\"\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add task-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n pass\n\n def __init__(self, args):\n self.args = args\n self.datasets = {}\n self.dataset_to_epoch_iter = {}\n\n @classmethod\n def load_dictionary(cls, filename):\n \"\"\"Load the dictionary from the filename\n\n Args:\n filename (str): the filename\n \"\"\"\n return Dictionary.load(filename)\n\n @classmethod\n def build_dictionary(\n cls, filenames, workers=1, threshold=-1, nwords=-1, padding_factor=8\n ):\n \"\"\"Build the dictionary\n\n Args:\n filenames (list): list of filenames\n workers (int): number of concurrent workers\n threshold (int): defines the minimum word count\n nwords (int): defines the total number of words in the final dictionary,\n including special symbols\n padding_factor (int): can be used to pad the dictionary size to be a\n multiple of 8, which is important on some hardware (e.g., Nvidia\n Tensor Cores).\n \"\"\"\n d = Dictionary()\n for filename in filenames:\n Dictionary.add_file_to_dictionary(\n filename, d, tokenizer.tokenize_line, workers\n )\n d.finalize(threshold=threshold, nwords=nwords, padding_factor=padding_factor)\n return d\n\n @classmethod\n def setup_task(cls, args, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Setup the task (e.g., load dictionaries).\n\n Args:\n args (argparse.Namespace): parsed command-line arguments\n \"\"\"\n return cls(args, **kwargs)\n\n def load_dataset(self, split, combine=False, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Load a given dataset split.\n\n Args:\n split (str): name of the split (e.g., train, valid, test)\n \"\"\"\n raise NotImplementedError\n\n def dataset(self, split):\n \"\"\"\n Return a loaded dataset split.\n\n Args:\n split (str): name of the split (e.g., train, valid, test)\n\n Returns:\n a :class:`~fairseq.data.FairseqDataset` corresponding to *split*\n \"\"\"\n from fairseq.data import FairseqDataset\n\n if split not in self.datasets:\n raise KeyError(\"Dataset not loaded: \" + split)\n if not isinstance(self.datasets[split], FairseqDataset):\n raise TypeError(\"Datasets are expected to be of type FairseqDataset\")\n return self.datasets[split]\n\n def get_batch_iterator(\n self,\n dataset,\n max_tokens=None,\n max_sentences=None,\n max_positions=None,\n ignore_invalid_inputs=False,\n required_batch_size_multiple=1,\n seed=1,\n num_shards=1,\n shard_id=0,\n num_workers=0,\n epoch=0,\n ):\n \"\"\"\n Get an iterator that yields batches of data from the given dataset.\n\n Args:\n dataset (~fairseq.data.FairseqDataset): dataset to batch\n max_tokens (int, optional): max number of tokens in each batch\n (default: None).\n max_sentences (int, optional): max number of sentences in each\n batch (default: None).\n max_positions (optional): max sentence length supported by the\n model (default: None).\n ignore_invalid_inputs (bool, optional): don't raise Exception for\n sentences that are too long (default: False).\n required_batch_size_multiple (int, optional): require batch size to\n be a multiple of N (default: 1).\n seed (int, optional): seed for random number generator for\n reproducibility (default: 1).\n num_shards (int, optional): shard the data iterator into N\n shards (default: 1).\n shard_id (int, optional): which shard of the data iterator to\n return (default: 0).\n num_workers (int, optional): how many subprocesses to use for data\n loading. 0 means the data will be loaded in the main process\n (default: 0).\n epoch (int, optional): the epoch to start the iterator from\n (default: 0).\n Returns:\n ~fairseq.iterators.EpochBatchIterator: a batched iterator over the\n given dataset split\n \"\"\"\n # For default fairseq task, return same iterator across epochs\n # as datasets are not dynamic, can be overridden in task specific\n # setting.\n if dataset in self.dataset_to_epoch_iter:\n return self.dataset_to_epoch_iter[dataset]\n\n assert isinstance(dataset, FairseqDataset)\n\n # initialize the dataset with the correct starting epoch\n dataset.set_epoch(epoch)\n\n # get indices ordered by example size\n with data_utils.numpy_seed(seed):\n indices = dataset.ordered_indices()\n\n # filter examples that are too large\n if max_positions is not None:\n indices = data_utils.filter_by_size(\n indices,\n dataset,\n max_positions,\n raise_exception=(not ignore_invalid_inputs),\n )\n\n # create mini-batches with given size constraints\n batch_sampler = data_utils.batch_by_size(\n indices,\n dataset.num_tokens,\n max_tokens=max_tokens,\n max_sentences=max_sentences,\n required_batch_size_multiple=required_batch_size_multiple,\n )\n\n # return a reusable, sharded iterator\n epoch_iter = iterators.EpochBatchIterator(\n dataset=dataset,\n collate_fn=dataset.collater,\n batch_sampler=batch_sampler,\n seed=seed,\n num_shards=num_shards,\n shard_id=shard_id,\n num_workers=num_workers,\n epoch=epoch,\n )\n self.dataset_to_epoch_iter[dataset] = epoch_iter\n return epoch_iter\n\n def build_model(self, args):\n \"\"\"\n Build the :class:`~fairseq.models.BaseFairseqModel` instance for this\n task.\n\n Args:\n args (argparse.Namespace): parsed command-line arguments\n\n Returns:\n a :class:`~fairseq.models.BaseFairseqModel` instance\n \"\"\"\n from fairseq import models\n\n return models.build_model(args, self)\n\n def build_criterion(self, args):\n \"\"\"\n Build the :class:`~fairseq.criterions.FairseqCriterion` instance for\n this task.\n\n Args:\n args (argparse.Namespace): parsed command-line arguments\n\n Returns:\n a :class:`~fairseq.criterions.FairseqCriterion` instance\n \"\"\"\n from fairseq import criterions\n\n return criterions.build_criterion(args, self)\n\n def build_generator(self, args):\n if getattr(args, \"score_reference\", False):\n from fairseq.sequence_scorer import SequenceScorer\n\n return SequenceScorer(self.target_dictionary)\n else:\n from fairseq.sequence_generator import (\n SequenceGenerator,\n SequenceGeneratorWithAlignment,\n )\n\n if getattr(args, \"print_alignment\", False):\n seq_gen_cls = SequenceGeneratorWithAlignment\n else:\n seq_gen_cls = SequenceGenerator\n return seq_gen_cls(\n self.target_dictionary,\n beam_size=getattr(args, \"beam\", 5),\n max_len_a=getattr(args, \"max_len_a\", 0),\n max_len_b=getattr(args, \"max_len_b\", 200),\n min_len=getattr(args, \"min_len\", 1),\n normalize_scores=(not getattr(args, \"unnormalized\", False)),\n len_penalty=getattr(args, \"lenpen\", 1),\n unk_penalty=getattr(args, \"unkpen\", 0),\n sampling=getattr(args, \"sampling\", False),\n sampling_topk=getattr(args, \"sampling_topk\", -1),\n sampling_topp=getattr(args, \"sampling_topp\", -1.0),\n temperature=getattr(args, \"temperature\", 1.0),\n diverse_beam_groups=getattr(args, \"diverse_beam_groups\", -1),\n diverse_beam_strength=getattr(args, \"diverse_beam_strength\", 0.5),\n match_source_len=getattr(args, \"match_source_len\", False),\n no_repeat_ngram_size=getattr(args, \"no_repeat_ngram_size\", 0),\n )\n\n def train_step(self, sample, model, criterion, optimizer, ignore_grad=False):\n \"\"\"\n Do forward and backward, and return the loss as computed by *criterion*\n for the given *model* and *sample*.\n\n Args:\n sample (dict): the mini-batch. The format is defined by the\n :class:`~fairseq.data.FairseqDataset`.\n model (~fairseq.models.BaseFairseqModel): the model\n criterion (~fairseq.criterions.FairseqCriterion): the criterion\n optimizer (~fairseq.optim.FairseqOptimizer): the optimizer\n ignore_grad (bool): multiply loss by 0 if this is set to True\n\n Returns:\n tuple:\n - the loss\n - the sample size, which is used as the denominator for the\n gradient\n - logging outputs to display while training\n \"\"\"\n model.train()\n loss, sample_size, logging_output = criterion(model, sample)\n if ignore_grad:\n loss *= 0\n optimizer.backward(loss)\n return loss, sample_size, logging_output\n\n def valid_step(self, sample, model, criterion):\n model.eval()\n with torch.no_grad():\n loss, sample_size, logging_output = criterion(model, sample)\n return loss, sample_size, logging_output\n\n def inference_step(self, generator, models, sample, prefix_tokens=None):\n with torch.no_grad():\n return generator.generate(models, sample, prefix_tokens=prefix_tokens)\n\n def update_step(self, num_updates):\n \"\"\"Task level update when number of update increases. This is called after optimization step and\n learning rate update of each step\"\"\"\n pass\n\n def grad_denom(self, sample_sizes, criterion):\n return criterion.__class__.grad_denom(sample_sizes)\n\n def aggregate_logging_outputs(self, logging_outputs, criterion):\n return criterion.__class__.aggregate_logging_outputs(logging_outputs)\n\n def max_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Return the max input length allowed by the task.\"\"\"\n return None\n\n @property\n def source_dictionary(self):\n \"\"\"Return the source :class:`~fairseq.data.Dictionary` (if applicable\n for this task).\"\"\"\n raise NotImplementedError\n\n @property\n def target_dictionary(self):\n \"\"\"Return the target :class:`~fairseq.data.Dictionary` (if applicable\n for this task).\"\"\"\n raise NotImplementedError\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/tasks/language_modeling.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport os\n\nimport torch\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\nfrom fairseq.data import (\n data_utils,\n Dictionary,\n MonolingualDataset,\n TokenBlockDataset,\n TransformEosDataset,\n TruncatedDictionary,\n)\nfrom fairseq.tasks import FairseqTask, register_task\n\n\n@register_task(\"language_modeling\")\nclass LanguageModelingTask(FairseqTask):\n \"\"\"\n Train a language model.\n\n Args:\n dictionary (~fairseq.data.Dictionary): the dictionary for the input of\n the language model\n output_dictionary (~fairseq.data.Dictionary): the dictionary for the\n output of the language model. In most cases it will be the same as\n *dictionary*, but could possibly be a more limited version of the\n dictionary (if ``--output-dictionary-size`` is used).\n targets (List[str]): list of the target types that the language model\n should predict. Can be one of \"self\", \"future\", and \"past\".\n Defaults to \"future\".\n\n .. note::\n\n The language modeling task is compatible with :mod:`fairseq-train`,\n :mod:`fairseq-generate`, :mod:`fairseq-interactive` and\n :mod:`fairseq-eval-lm`.\n\n The language modeling task provides the following additional command-line\n arguments:\n\n .. argparse::\n :ref: fairseq.tasks.language_modeling_parser\n :prog:\n \"\"\"\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add task-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument('data', help='path to data directory')\n parser.add_argument('--sample-break-mode', default='none',\n choices=['none', 'complete', 'complete_doc', 'eos'],\n help='If omitted or \"none\", fills each sample with tokens-per-sample '\n 'tokens. If set to \"complete\", splits samples only at the end '\n 'of sentence, but may include multiple sentences per sample. '\n '\"complete_doc\" is similar but respects doc boundaries. '\n 'If set to \"eos\", includes only one sentence per sample.')\n parser.add_argument('--tokens-per-sample', default=1024, type=int,\n help='max number of tokens per sample for LM dataset')\n parser.add_argument('--lazy-load', action='store_true',\n help='load the dataset lazily')\n parser.add_argument('--raw-text', default=False, action='store_true',\n help='load raw text dataset')\n parser.add_argument('--output-dictionary-size', default=-1, type=int,\n help='limit the size of output dictionary')\n parser.add_argument('--self-target', action='store_true',\n help='include self target')\n parser.add_argument('--future-target', action='store_true',\n help='include future target')\n parser.add_argument('--past-target', action='store_true',\n help='include past target')\n parser.add_argument('--add-bos-token', action='store_true',\n help='prepend beginning of sentence token (<s>)')\n parser.add_argument('--max-target-positions', type=int, metavar='N',\n help='max number of tokens in the target sequence')\n # fmt: on\n\n def __init__(self, args, dictionary, output_dictionary=None, targets=None):\n super().__init__(args)\n self.dictionary = dictionary\n self.output_dictionary = output_dictionary or dictionary\n\n if targets is None:\n targets = [\"future\"]\n self.targets = targets\n\n @classmethod\n def setup_task(cls, args, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Setup the task (e.g., load dictionaries).\n\n Args:\n args (argparse.Namespace): parsed command-line arguments\n \"\"\"\n if getattr(args, \"raw_text\", False):\n utils.deprecation_warning(\n \"--raw-text is deprecated, please use --dataset-impl=raw\"\n )\n args.dataset_impl = \"raw\"\n elif getattr(args, \"lazy_load\", False):\n utils.deprecation_warning(\n \"--lazy-load is deprecated, please use --dataset-impl=lazy\"\n )\n args.dataset_impl = \"lazy\"\n\n dictionary = None\n output_dictionary = None\n if args.data:\n paths = args.data.split(\":\")\n assert len(paths) > 0\n dictionary = Dictionary.load(os.path.join(paths[0], \"dict.txt\"))\n print(\"| dictionary: {} types\".format(len(dictionary)))\n output_dictionary = dictionary\n if args.output_dictionary_size >= 0:\n output_dictionary = TruncatedDictionary(\n dictionary, args.output_dictionary_size\n )\n\n # upgrade old checkpoints\n if hasattr(args, \"exclude_self_target\"):\n args.self_target = not args.exclude_self_target\n\n targets = []\n if getattr(args, \"self_target\", False):\n targets.append(\"self\")\n if getattr(args, \"future_target\", False):\n targets.append(\"future\")\n if getattr(args, \"past_target\", False):\n targets.append(\"past\")\n if len(targets) == 0:\n # standard language modeling\n targets = [\"future\"]\n\n return cls(args, dictionary, output_dictionary, targets=targets)\n\n def build_model(self, args):\n model = super().build_model(args)\n\n for target in self.targets:\n if target not in model.supported_targets:\n raise ValueError(\n \"Unsupported language modeling target: {}\".format(target)\n )\n\n return model\n\n def load_dataset(self, split, epoch=0, combine=False, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Load a given dataset split.\n\n Args:\n split (str): name of the split (e.g., train, valid, test)\n \"\"\"\n paths = self.args.data.split(\":\")\n assert len(paths) > 0\n\n data_path = paths[epoch % len(paths)]\n split_path = os.path.join(data_path, split)\n\n dataset = data_utils.load_indexed_dataset(\n split_path, self.dictionary, self.args.dataset_impl, combine=combine\n )\n if dataset is None:\n raise FileNotFoundError(\n \"Dataset not found: {} ({})\".format(split, split_path)\n )\n\n dataset = TokenBlockDataset(\n dataset,\n dataset.sizes,\n self.args.tokens_per_sample,\n pad=self.dictionary.pad(),\n eos=self.dictionary.eos(),\n break_mode=self.args.sample_break_mode,\n include_targets=True,\n )\n\n add_eos_for_other_targets = (\n self.args.sample_break_mode is not None\n and self.args.sample_break_mode != \"none\"\n )\n\n self.datasets[split] = MonolingualDataset(\n dataset,\n dataset.sizes,\n self.dictionary,\n self.output_dictionary,\n add_eos_for_other_targets=add_eos_for_other_targets,\n shuffle=True,\n targets=self.targets,\n add_bos_token=self.args.add_bos_token,\n )\n\n def build_dataset_for_inference(self, src_tokens, src_lengths):\n return TransformEosDataset(\n MonolingualDataset(\n TokenBlockDataset(\n src_tokens,\n src_lengths,\n block_size=None,\n pad=self.source_dictionary.pad(),\n eos=self.source_dictionary.eos(),\n break_mode=\"eos\",\n include_targets=False,\n ),\n src_lengths,\n self.source_dictionary,\n self.target_dictionary,\n add_eos_for_other_targets=False,\n shuffle=False,\n add_bos_token=self.args.add_bos_token,\n ),\n eos=self.source_dictionary.eos(),\n # remove EOS since this will be used as a prefix for generation\n remove_eos_from_src=True,\n has_target=False,\n )\n\n def inference_step(self, generator, models, sample, prefix_tokens=None):\n with torch.no_grad():\n if prefix_tokens is None and sample[\"net_input\"][\"src_tokens\"].nelement():\n prefix_tokens = sample[\"net_input\"][\"src_tokens\"]\n if prefix_tokens[:, 0].eq(self.source_dictionary.eos()).all():\n prefix_tokens = prefix_tokens[:, 1:]\n return generator.generate(models, sample, prefix_tokens=prefix_tokens)\n\n @property\n def source_dictionary(self):\n \"\"\"Return the :class:`~fairseq.data.Dictionary` for the language\n model.\"\"\"\n return self.dictionary\n\n @property\n def target_dictionary(self):\n \"\"\"Return the :class:`~fairseq.data.Dictionary` for the language\n model.\"\"\"\n return self.output_dictionary\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/tasks/legacy_masked_lm.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport itertools\nimport numpy as np\nimport os\n\nfrom fairseq import tokenizer\nfrom fairseq.data import (\n ConcatDataset,\n indexed_dataset,\n data_utils,\n)\n\nfrom fairseq.data import Dictionary\nfrom fairseq.data.legacy.block_pair_dataset import BlockPairDataset\nfrom fairseq.data.legacy.masked_lm_dataset import MaskedLMDataset\nfrom fairseq.data.legacy.masked_lm_dictionary import BertDictionary\n\nfrom . import FairseqTask, register_task\n\n\n@register_task(\"legacy_masked_lm\")\nclass LegacyMaskedLMTask(FairseqTask):\n \"\"\"\n Task for training Masked LM (BERT) model.\n Args:\n dictionary (Dictionary): the dictionary for the input of the task\n \"\"\"\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add task-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n parser.add_argument(\n \"data\",\n help=\"colon separated path to data directories list, \\\n will be iterated upon during epochs in round-robin manner\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--tokens-per-sample\",\n default=512,\n type=int,\n help=\"max number of total tokens over all segments\"\n \" per sample for BERT dataset\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--break-mode\", default=\"doc\", type=str, help=\"mode for breaking sentence\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\"--shuffle-dataset\", action=\"store_true\", default=False)\n\n def __init__(self, args, dictionary):\n super().__init__(args)\n self.dictionary = dictionary\n self.seed = args.seed\n\n @classmethod\n def load_dictionary(cls, filename):\n return BertDictionary.load(filename)\n\n @classmethod\n def build_dictionary(\n cls, filenames, workers=1, threshold=-1, nwords=-1, padding_factor=8\n ):\n d = BertDictionary()\n for filename in filenames:\n Dictionary.add_file_to_dictionary(\n filename, d, tokenizer.tokenize_line, workers\n )\n d.finalize(threshold=threshold, nwords=nwords, padding_factor=padding_factor)\n return d\n\n @property\n def target_dictionary(self):\n return self.dictionary\n\n @classmethod\n def setup_task(cls, args, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Setup the task.\n \"\"\"\n paths = args.data.split(\":\")\n assert len(paths) > 0\n dictionary = BertDictionary.load(os.path.join(paths[0], \"dict.txt\"))\n print(\"| dictionary: {} types\".format(len(dictionary)))\n\n return cls(args, dictionary)\n\n def load_dataset(self, split, epoch=0, combine=False):\n \"\"\"Load a given dataset split.\n Args:\n split (str): name of the split (e.g., train, valid, test)\n \"\"\"\n loaded_datasets = []\n\n paths = self.args.data.split(\":\")\n assert len(paths) > 0\n data_path = paths[epoch % len(paths)]\n print(\"| data_path\", data_path)\n\n for k in itertools.count():\n split_k = split + (str(k) if k > 0 else \"\")\n path = os.path.join(data_path, split_k)\n ds = indexed_dataset.make_dataset(\n path,\n impl=self.args.dataset_impl,\n fix_lua_indexing=True,\n dictionary=self.dictionary,\n )\n\n if ds is None:\n if k > 0:\n break\n else:\n raise FileNotFoundError(\n \"Dataset not found: {} ({})\".format(split, data_path)\n )\n\n with data_utils.numpy_seed(self.seed + k):\n loaded_datasets.append(\n BlockPairDataset(\n ds,\n self.dictionary,\n ds.sizes,\n self.args.tokens_per_sample,\n break_mode=self.args.break_mode,\n doc_break_size=1,\n )\n )\n\n print(\n \"| {} {} {} examples\".format(\n data_path, split_k, len(loaded_datasets[-1])\n )\n )\n\n if not combine:\n break\n\n if len(loaded_datasets) == 1:\n dataset = loaded_datasets[0]\n sizes = dataset.sizes\n else:\n dataset = ConcatDataset(loaded_datasets)\n sizes = np.concatenate([ds.sizes for ds in loaded_datasets])\n\n self.datasets[split] = MaskedLMDataset(\n dataset=dataset,\n sizes=sizes,\n vocab=self.dictionary,\n pad_idx=self.dictionary.pad(),\n mask_idx=self.dictionary.mask(),\n classif_token_idx=self.dictionary.cls(),\n sep_token_idx=self.dictionary.sep(),\n shuffle=self.args.shuffle_dataset,\n seed=self.seed,\n )\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/tasks/masked_lm.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport os\n\nimport numpy as np\n\nfrom fairseq.data import (\n data_utils,\n Dictionary,\n IdDataset,\n MaskTokensDataset,\n NestedDictionaryDataset,\n NumelDataset,\n NumSamplesDataset,\n PadDataset,\n PrependTokenDataset,\n SortDataset,\n TokenBlockDataset,\n)\nfrom fairseq.tasks import FairseqTask, register_task\nfrom fairseq.data.encoders.utils import get_whole_word_mask\n\n\n@register_task(\"masked_lm\")\nclass MaskedLMTask(FairseqTask):\n \"\"\"Task for training masked language models (e.g., BERT, RoBERTa).\"\"\"\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add task-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n parser.add_argument(\n \"data\",\n help=\"colon separated path to data directories list, \\\n will be iterated upon during epochs in round-robin manner\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--sample-break-mode\",\n default=\"complete\",\n choices=[\"none\", \"complete\", \"complete_doc\", \"eos\"],\n help='If omitted or \"none\", fills each sample with tokens-per-sample '\n 'tokens. If set to \"complete\", splits samples only at the end '\n \"of sentence, but may include multiple sentences per sample. \"\n '\"complete_doc\" is similar but respects doc boundaries. '\n 'If set to \"eos\", includes only one sentence per sample.',\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--tokens-per-sample\",\n default=512,\n type=int,\n help=\"max number of total tokens over all segments \"\n \"per sample for BERT dataset\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--mask-prob\",\n default=0.15,\n type=float,\n help=\"probability of replacing a token with mask\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--leave-unmasked-prob\",\n default=0.1,\n type=float,\n help=\"probability that a masked token is unmasked\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--random-token-prob\",\n default=0.1,\n type=float,\n help=\"probability of replacing a token with a random token\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--freq-weighted-replacement\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"sample random replacement words based on word frequencies\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--mask-whole-words\",\n default=False,\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"mask whole words; you may also want to set --bpe\",\n )\n\n def __init__(self, args, dictionary):\n super().__init__(args)\n self.dictionary = dictionary\n self.seed = args.seed\n\n # add mask token\n self.mask_idx = dictionary.add_symbol(\"<mask>\")\n\n @classmethod\n def setup_task(cls, args, **kwargs):\n paths = args.data.split(\":\")\n assert len(paths) > 0\n dictionary = Dictionary.load(os.path.join(paths[0], \"dict.txt\"))\n print(\"| dictionary: {} types\".format(len(dictionary)))\n return cls(args, dictionary)\n\n def load_dataset(self, split, epoch=0, combine=False, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Load a given dataset split.\n\n Args:\n split (str): name of the split (e.g., train, valid, test)\n \"\"\"\n paths = self.args.data.split(\":\")\n assert len(paths) > 0\n data_path = paths[epoch % len(paths)]\n split_path = os.path.join(data_path, split)\n\n dataset = data_utils.load_indexed_dataset(\n split_path, self.source_dictionary, self.args.dataset_impl, combine=combine,\n )\n if dataset is None:\n raise FileNotFoundError(\n \"Dataset not found: {} ({})\".format(split, split_path)\n )\n\n # create continuous blocks of tokens\n dataset = TokenBlockDataset(\n dataset,\n dataset.sizes,\n self.args.tokens_per_sample - 1, # one less for <s>\n pad=self.source_dictionary.pad(),\n eos=self.source_dictionary.eos(),\n break_mode=self.args.sample_break_mode,\n )\n print(\"| loaded {} blocks from: {}\".format(len(dataset), split_path))\n\n # prepend beginning-of-sentence token (<s>, equiv. to [CLS] in BERT)\n dataset = PrependTokenDataset(dataset, self.source_dictionary.bos())\n\n # create masked input and targets\n mask_whole_words = (\n get_whole_word_mask(self.args, self.source_dictionary)\n if self.args.mask_whole_words\n else None\n )\n\n src_dataset, tgt_dataset = MaskTokensDataset.apply_mask(\n dataset,\n self.source_dictionary,\n pad_idx=self.source_dictionary.pad(),\n mask_idx=self.mask_idx,\n seed=self.args.seed,\n mask_prob=self.args.mask_prob,\n leave_unmasked_prob=self.args.leave_unmasked_prob,\n random_token_prob=self.args.random_token_prob,\n freq_weighted_replacement=self.args.freq_weighted_replacement,\n mask_whole_words=mask_whole_words,\n )\n\n with data_utils.numpy_seed(self.args.seed + epoch):\n shuffle = np.random.permutation(len(src_dataset))\n\n self.datasets[split] = SortDataset(\n NestedDictionaryDataset(\n {\n \"id\": IdDataset(),\n \"net_input\": {\n \"src_tokens\": PadDataset(\n src_dataset,\n pad_idx=self.source_dictionary.pad(),\n left_pad=False,\n ),\n \"src_lengths\": NumelDataset(src_dataset, reduce=False),\n },\n \"target\": PadDataset(\n tgt_dataset,\n pad_idx=self.source_dictionary.pad(),\n left_pad=False,\n ),\n \"nsentences\": NumSamplesDataset(),\n \"ntokens\": NumelDataset(src_dataset, reduce=True),\n },\n sizes=[src_dataset.sizes],\n ),\n sort_order=[shuffle, src_dataset.sizes,],\n )\n\n def build_dataset_for_inference(self, src_tokens, src_lengths, sort=True):\n src_dataset = PadDataset(\n TokenBlockDataset(\n src_tokens,\n src_lengths,\n self.args.tokens_per_sample - 1, # one less for <s>\n pad=self.source_dictionary.pad(),\n eos=self.source_dictionary.eos(),\n break_mode=\"eos\",\n ),\n pad_idx=self.source_dictionary.pad(),\n left_pad=False,\n )\n src_dataset = PrependTokenDataset(src_dataset, self.source_dictionary.bos())\n src_dataset = NestedDictionaryDataset(\n {\n \"id\": IdDataset(),\n \"net_input\": {\n \"src_tokens\": src_dataset,\n \"src_lengths\": NumelDataset(src_dataset, reduce=False),\n },\n },\n sizes=src_lengths,\n )\n if sort:\n src_dataset = SortDataset(src_dataset, sort_order=[src_lengths])\n return src_dataset\n\n @property\n def source_dictionary(self):\n return self.dictionary\n\n @property\n def target_dictionary(self):\n return self.dictionary\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/tasks/multilingual_masked_lm.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport os\n\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\n\nfrom fairseq.data import (\n data_utils,\n Dictionary,\n encoders,\n ConcatDataset,\n IdDataset,\n MaskTokensDataset,\n NestedDictionaryDataset,\n NumelDataset,\n NumSamplesDataset,\n PadDataset,\n PrependTokenDataset,\n RawLabelDataset,\n ResamplingDataset,\n SortDataset,\n TokenBlockDataset,\n)\nfrom fairseq.tasks import FairseqTask, register_task\n\n\n@register_task(\"multilingual_masked_lm\")\nclass MultiLingualMaskedLMTask(FairseqTask):\n \"\"\"Task for training masked language models (e.g., BERT, RoBERTa).\"\"\"\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add task-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n parser.add_argument(\n \"data\",\n help=\"colon separated path to data directories list, \\\n will be iterated upon during epochs in round-robin manner\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--sample-break-mode\",\n default=\"complete\",\n choices=[\"none\", \"complete\", \"complete_doc\", \"eos\"],\n help='If omitted or \"none\", fills each sample with tokens-per-sample '\n 'tokens. If set to \"complete\", splits samples only at the end '\n \"of sentence, but may include multiple sentences per sample. \"\n '\"complete_doc\" is similar but respects doc boundaries. '\n 'If set to \"eos\", includes only one sentence per sample.',\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--tokens-per-sample\",\n default=512,\n type=int,\n help=\"max number of total tokens over all segments \"\n \"per sample for BERT dataset\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--mask-prob\",\n default=0.15,\n type=float,\n help=\"probability of replacing a token with mask\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--leave-unmasked-prob\",\n default=0.1,\n type=float,\n help=\"probability that a masked token is unmasked\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--random-token-prob\",\n default=0.1,\n type=float,\n help=\"probability of replacing a token with a random token\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--freq-weighted-replacement\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"sample random replacement words based on word frequencies\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--mask-whole-words\",\n default=False,\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"mask whole words; you may also want to set --bpe\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--multilang-sampling-alpha\",\n type=float,\n default=1.0,\n help=\"smoothing alpha for sample rations across multiple datasets\",\n )\n\n def __init__(self, args, dictionary):\n super().__init__(args)\n self.dictionary = dictionary\n self.seed = args.seed\n\n # add mask token\n self.mask_idx = dictionary.add_symbol(\"<mask>\")\n\n @classmethod\n def setup_task(cls, args, **kwargs):\n paths = args.data.split(\":\")\n assert len(paths) > 0\n dictionary = Dictionary.load(os.path.join(paths[0], \"dict.txt\"))\n print(\"| dictionary: {} types\".format(len(dictionary)))\n return cls(args, dictionary)\n\n def _get_whole_word_mask(self):\n # create masked input and targets\n if self.args.mask_whole_words:\n bpe = encoders.build_bpe(self.args)\n if bpe is not None:\n\n def is_beginning_of_word(i):\n if i < self.source_dictionary.nspecial:\n # special elements are always considered beginnings\n return True\n tok = self.source_dictionary[i]\n if tok.startswith(\"madeupword\"):\n return True\n try:\n return bpe.is_beginning_of_word(tok)\n except ValueError:\n return True\n\n mask_whole_words = torch.ByteTensor(\n list(map(is_beginning_of_word, range(len(self.source_dictionary))))\n )\n else:\n mask_whole_words = None\n return mask_whole_words\n\n def _get_sample_prob(self, dataset_lens):\n \"\"\"\n Get smoothed sampling porbability by languages. This helps low resource\n languages by upsampling them.\n \"\"\"\n prob = dataset_lens / dataset_lens.sum()\n smoothed_prob = prob ** self.args.multilang_sampling_alpha\n smoothed_prob = smoothed_prob / smoothed_prob.sum()\n return smoothed_prob\n\n def load_dataset(self, split, epoch=0, combine=False, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Load a given dataset split.\n\n Args:\n split (str): name of the split (e.g., train, valid, test)\n \"\"\"\n paths = self.args.data.split(\":\")\n assert len(paths) > 0\n data_path = paths[epoch % len(paths)]\n\n languages = [\n name\n for name in os.listdir(data_path)\n if os.path.isdir(os.path.join(data_path, name))\n ]\n print(\"| Training on {0} languages: {1}\".format(len(languages), languages))\n print(\n \"| Language to id mapping: \",\n {lang: id for id, lang in enumerate(languages)},\n )\n\n mask_whole_words = self._get_whole_word_mask()\n lang_datasets = []\n for lang_id, language in enumerate(languages):\n split_path = os.path.join(data_path, language, split)\n\n dataset = data_utils.load_indexed_dataset(\n split_path,\n self.source_dictionary,\n self.args.dataset_impl,\n combine=combine,\n )\n if dataset is None:\n raise FileNotFoundError(\n \"Dataset not found: {} ({})\".format(split, split_path)\n )\n\n # create continuous blocks of tokens\n dataset = TokenBlockDataset(\n dataset,\n dataset.sizes,\n self.args.tokens_per_sample - 1, # one less for <s>\n pad=self.source_dictionary.pad(),\n eos=self.source_dictionary.eos(),\n break_mode=self.args.sample_break_mode,\n )\n print(\"| loaded {} blocks from: {}\".format(len(dataset), split_path))\n\n # prepend beginning-of-sentence token (<s>, equiv. to [CLS] in BERT)\n dataset = PrependTokenDataset(dataset, self.source_dictionary.bos())\n\n src_dataset, tgt_dataset = MaskTokensDataset.apply_mask(\n dataset,\n self.source_dictionary,\n pad_idx=self.source_dictionary.pad(),\n mask_idx=self.mask_idx,\n seed=self.args.seed,\n mask_prob=self.args.mask_prob,\n leave_unmasked_prob=self.args.leave_unmasked_prob,\n random_token_prob=self.args.random_token_prob,\n freq_weighted_replacement=self.args.freq_weighted_replacement,\n mask_whole_words=mask_whole_words,\n )\n\n lang_dataset = NestedDictionaryDataset(\n {\n \"net_input\": {\n \"src_tokens\": PadDataset(\n src_dataset,\n pad_idx=self.source_dictionary.pad(),\n left_pad=False,\n ),\n \"src_lengths\": NumelDataset(src_dataset, reduce=False),\n },\n \"target\": PadDataset(\n tgt_dataset,\n pad_idx=self.source_dictionary.pad(),\n left_pad=False,\n ),\n \"nsentences\": NumSamplesDataset(),\n \"ntokens\": NumelDataset(src_dataset, reduce=True),\n \"lang_id\": RawLabelDataset([lang_id] * src_dataset.sizes.shape[0]),\n },\n sizes=[src_dataset.sizes],\n )\n lang_datasets.append(lang_dataset)\n\n if split == self.args.train_subset:\n # For train subset, additionally up or down sample languages.\n dataset_lengths = np.array([len(d) for d in lang_datasets], dtype=float,)\n sample_probs = self._get_sample_prob(dataset_lengths)\n print(\n \"| Sample probability by language: \",\n {\n lang: \"{0:.4f}\".format(sample_probs[id])\n for id, lang in enumerate(languages)\n },\n )\n size_ratio = (sample_probs * dataset_lengths.sum()) / dataset_lengths\n print(\n \"| Up/Down Sampling ratio by language: \",\n {\n lang: \"{0:.2f}\".format(size_ratio[id])\n for id, lang in enumerate(languages)\n },\n )\n\n resampled_lang_datasets = [\n ResamplingDataset(\n lang_datasets[i],\n size_ratio=size_ratio[i],\n seed=self.args.seed,\n epoch=epoch,\n replace=size_ratio[i] >= 1.0,\n )\n for i, d in enumerate(lang_datasets)\n ]\n dataset = ConcatDataset(resampled_lang_datasets)\n else:\n dataset = ConcatDataset(lang_datasets)\n lang_splits = [split]\n for lang_id, lang_dataset in enumerate(lang_datasets):\n split_name = split + \"_\" + languages[lang_id]\n lang_splits.append(split_name)\n self.datasets[split_name] = lang_dataset\n\n # [TODO]: This is hacky for now to print validation ppl for each\n # language individually. Maybe need task API changes to allow it\n # in more generic ways.\n if split in self.args.valid_subset:\n self.args.valid_subset = self.args.valid_subset.replace(\n split, \",\".join(lang_splits)\n )\n\n with data_utils.numpy_seed(self.args.seed + epoch):\n shuffle = np.random.permutation(len(dataset))\n\n self.datasets[split] = SortDataset(\n dataset, sort_order=[shuffle, dataset.sizes,],\n )\n\n def build_dataset_for_inference(self, src_tokens, src_lengths, sort=True):\n src_dataset = PadDataset(\n TokenBlockDataset(\n src_tokens,\n src_lengths,\n self.args.tokens_per_sample - 1, # one less for <s>\n pad=self.source_dictionary.pad(),\n eos=self.source_dictionary.eos(),\n break_mode=\"eos\",\n ),\n pad_idx=self.source_dictionary.pad(),\n left_pad=False,\n )\n src_dataset = PrependTokenDataset(src_dataset, self.source_dictionary.bos())\n src_dataset = NestedDictionaryDataset(\n {\n \"id\": IdDataset(),\n \"net_input\": {\n \"src_tokens\": src_dataset,\n \"src_lengths\": NumelDataset(src_dataset, reduce=False),\n },\n },\n sizes=src_lengths,\n )\n if sort:\n src_dataset = SortDataset(src_dataset, sort_order=[src_lengths])\n return src_dataset\n\n def get_batch_iterator(\n self,\n dataset,\n max_tokens=None,\n max_sentences=None,\n max_positions=None,\n ignore_invalid_inputs=False,\n required_batch_size_multiple=1,\n seed=1,\n num_shards=1,\n shard_id=0,\n num_workers=0,\n epoch=0,\n ):\n # Recreate epoch iterator every epoch cause the underlying\n # datasets are dynamic due to sampling.\n self.dataset_to_epoch_iter = None\n return super().get_batch_iterator(\n dataset,\n max_tokens,\n max_sentences,\n max_positions,\n ignore_invalid_inputs,\n required_batch_size_multiple,\n seed,\n num_shards,\n shard_id,\n num_workers,\n epoch,\n )\n\n @property\n def source_dictionary(self):\n return self.dictionary\n\n @property\n def target_dictionary(self):\n return self.dictionary\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/tasks/multilingual_translation.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom collections import OrderedDict\nimport os\n\nimport torch\n\nfrom fairseq import options, utils\nfrom fairseq.data import (\n Dictionary,\n LanguagePairDataset,\n RoundRobinZipDatasets,\n TransformEosLangPairDataset,\n)\nfrom fairseq.models import FairseqMultiModel\nfrom fairseq.tasks.translation import load_langpair_dataset\n\n\nfrom . import FairseqTask, register_task\n\n\ndef _lang_token(lang: str):\n return \"__{}__\".format(lang)\n\n\ndef _lang_token_index(dic: Dictionary, lang: str):\n \"\"\"Return language token index.\"\"\"\n idx = dic.index(_lang_token(lang))\n assert idx != dic.unk_index, \"cannot find language token for lang {}\".format(lang)\n return idx\n\n\n@register_task(\"multilingual_translation\")\nclass MultilingualTranslationTask(FairseqTask):\n \"\"\"A task for training multiple translation models simultaneously.\n\n We iterate round-robin over batches from multiple language pairs, ordered\n according to the `--lang-pairs` argument.\n\n The training loop is roughly:\n\n for i in range(len(epoch)):\n for lang_pair in args.lang_pairs:\n batch = next_batch_for_lang_pair(lang_pair)\n loss = criterion(model_for_lang_pair(lang_pair), batch)\n loss.backward()\n optimizer.step()\n\n In practice, `next_batch_for_lang_pair` is abstracted in a FairseqDataset\n (e.g., `RoundRobinZipDatasets`) and `model_for_lang_pair` is a model that\n implements the `FairseqMultiModel` interface.\n\n During inference it is required to specify a single `--source-lang` and\n `--target-lang`, which indicates the inference langauge direction.\n `--lang-pairs`, `--encoder-langtok`, `--decoder-langtok` have to be set to\n the same value as training.\n \"\"\"\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add task-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument('data', metavar='DIR', help='path to data directory')\n parser.add_argument('--lang-pairs', default=None, metavar='PAIRS',\n help='comma-separated list of language pairs (in training order): en-de,en-fr,de-fr')\n parser.add_argument('-s', '--source-lang', default=None, metavar='SRC',\n help='source language (only needed for inference)')\n parser.add_argument('-t', '--target-lang', default=None, metavar='TARGET',\n help='target language (only needed for inference)')\n parser.add_argument('--lazy-load', action='store_true',\n help='load the dataset lazily')\n parser.add_argument('--raw-text', default=False, action='store_true',\n help='load raw text dataset')\n parser.add_argument('--left-pad-source', default='True', type=str, metavar='BOOL',\n help='pad the source on the left (default: True)')\n parser.add_argument('--left-pad-target', default='False', type=str, metavar='BOOL',\n help='pad the target on the left (default: False)')\n parser.add_argument('--max-source-positions', default=1024, type=int, metavar='N',\n help='max number of tokens in the source sequence')\n parser.add_argument('--max-target-positions', default=1024, type=int, metavar='N',\n help='max number of tokens in the target sequence')\n parser.add_argument('--upsample-primary', default=1, type=int,\n help='amount to upsample primary dataset')\n parser.add_argument('--encoder-langtok', default=None, type=str, choices=['src', 'tgt'],\n metavar='SRCTGT',\n help='replace beginning-of-sentence in source sentence with source or target '\n 'language token. (src/tgt)')\n parser.add_argument('--decoder-langtok', action='store_true',\n help='replace beginning-of-sentence in target sentence with target language token')\n # fmt: on\n\n def __init__(self, args, dicts, training):\n super().__init__(args)\n self.dicts = dicts\n self.training = training\n if training:\n self.lang_pairs = args.lang_pairs\n args.source_lang, args.target_lang = args.lang_pairs[0].split(\"-\")\n else:\n self.lang_pairs = [\"{}-{}\".format(args.source_lang, args.target_lang)]\n # eval_lang_pairs for multilingual translation is usually all of the\n # lang_pairs. However for other multitask settings or when we want to\n # optimize for certain languages we want to use a different subset. Thus\n # the eval_lang_pairs class variable is provided for classes that extend\n # this class.\n self.eval_lang_pairs = self.lang_pairs\n # model_lang_pairs will be used to build encoder-decoder model pairs in\n # models.build_model(). This allows multitask type of sub-class can\n # build models other than the input lang_pairs\n self.model_lang_pairs = self.lang_pairs\n self.langs = list(dicts.keys())\n\n @classmethod\n def setup_task(cls, args, **kwargs):\n dicts, training = cls.prepare(args, **kwargs)\n return cls(args, dicts, training)\n\n @classmethod\n def prepare(cls, args, **kargs):\n args.left_pad_source = options.eval_bool(args.left_pad_source)\n args.left_pad_target = options.eval_bool(args.left_pad_target)\n if getattr(args, \"raw_text\", False):\n utils.deprecation_warning(\n \"--raw-text is deprecated, please use --dataset-impl=raw\"\n )\n args.dataset_impl = \"raw\"\n elif getattr(args, \"lazy_load\", False):\n utils.deprecation_warning(\n \"--lazy-load is deprecated, please use --dataset-impl=lazy\"\n )\n args.dataset_impl = \"lazy\"\n\n if args.lang_pairs is None:\n raise ValueError(\n \"--lang-pairs is required. List all the language pairs in the training objective.\"\n )\n args.lang_pairs = args.lang_pairs.split(\",\")\n sorted_langs = sorted(\n list({x for lang_pair in args.lang_pairs for x in lang_pair.split(\"-\")})\n )\n if args.source_lang is not None or args.target_lang is not None:\n training = False\n else:\n training = True\n\n # load dictionaries\n dicts = OrderedDict()\n for lang in sorted_langs:\n paths = args.data.split(\":\")\n assert len(paths) > 0\n dicts[lang] = Dictionary.load(\n os.path.join(paths[0], \"dict.{}.txt\".format(lang))\n )\n if len(dicts) > 0:\n assert dicts[lang].pad() == dicts[sorted_langs[0]].pad()\n assert dicts[lang].eos() == dicts[sorted_langs[0]].eos()\n assert dicts[lang].unk() == dicts[sorted_langs[0]].unk()\n if args.encoder_langtok is not None or args.decoder_langtok:\n for lang_to_add in sorted_langs:\n dicts[lang].add_symbol(_lang_token(lang_to_add))\n print(\"| [{}] dictionary: {} types\".format(lang, len(dicts[lang])))\n return dicts, training\n\n def get_encoder_langtok(self, src_lang, tgt_lang):\n if self.args.encoder_langtok is None:\n return self.dicts[src_lang].eos()\n if self.args.encoder_langtok == \"src\":\n return _lang_token_index(self.dicts[src_lang], src_lang)\n else:\n return _lang_token_index(self.dicts[src_lang], tgt_lang)\n\n def get_decoder_langtok(self, tgt_lang):\n if not self.args.decoder_langtok:\n return self.dicts[tgt_lang].eos()\n return _lang_token_index(self.dicts[tgt_lang], tgt_lang)\n\n def alter_dataset_langtok(\n self,\n lang_pair_dataset,\n src_eos=None,\n src_lang=None,\n tgt_eos=None,\n tgt_lang=None,\n ):\n if self.args.encoder_langtok is None and not self.args.decoder_langtok:\n return lang_pair_dataset\n\n new_src_eos = None\n if (\n self.args.encoder_langtok is not None\n and src_eos is not None\n and src_lang is not None\n and tgt_lang is not None\n ):\n new_src_eos = self.get_encoder_langtok(src_lang, tgt_lang)\n else:\n src_eos = None\n\n new_tgt_bos = None\n if self.args.decoder_langtok and tgt_eos is not None and tgt_lang is not None:\n new_tgt_bos = self.get_decoder_langtok(tgt_lang)\n else:\n tgt_eos = None\n\n return TransformEosLangPairDataset(\n lang_pair_dataset,\n src_eos=src_eos,\n new_src_eos=new_src_eos,\n tgt_bos=tgt_eos,\n new_tgt_bos=new_tgt_bos,\n )\n\n def load_dataset(self, split, epoch=0, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Load a dataset split.\"\"\"\n\n paths = self.args.data.split(\":\")\n assert len(paths) > 0\n data_path = paths[epoch % len(paths)]\n\n def language_pair_dataset(lang_pair):\n src, tgt = lang_pair.split(\"-\")\n langpair_dataset = load_langpair_dataset(\n data_path,\n split,\n src,\n self.dicts[src],\n tgt,\n self.dicts[tgt],\n combine=True,\n dataset_impl=self.args.dataset_impl,\n upsample_primary=self.args.upsample_primary,\n left_pad_source=self.args.left_pad_source,\n left_pad_target=self.args.left_pad_target,\n max_source_positions=self.args.max_source_positions,\n max_target_positions=self.args.max_target_positions,\n )\n return self.alter_dataset_langtok(\n langpair_dataset,\n src_eos=self.dicts[src].eos(),\n src_lang=src,\n tgt_eos=self.dicts[tgt].eos(),\n tgt_lang=tgt,\n )\n\n self.datasets[split] = RoundRobinZipDatasets(\n OrderedDict(\n [\n (lang_pair, language_pair_dataset(lang_pair))\n for lang_pair in self.lang_pairs\n ]\n ),\n eval_key=None\n if self.training\n else \"%s-%s\" % (self.args.source_lang, self.args.target_lang),\n )\n\n def build_dataset_for_inference(self, src_tokens, src_lengths):\n lang_pair = \"%s-%s\" % (self.args.source_lang, self.args.target_lang)\n return RoundRobinZipDatasets(\n OrderedDict(\n [\n (\n lang_pair,\n self.alter_dataset_langtok(\n LanguagePairDataset(\n src_tokens, src_lengths, self.source_dictionary\n ),\n src_eos=self.source_dictionary.eos(),\n src_lang=self.args.source_lang,\n tgt_eos=self.target_dictionary.eos(),\n tgt_lang=self.args.target_lang,\n ),\n )\n ]\n ),\n eval_key=lang_pair,\n )\n\n def build_model(self, args):\n def check_args():\n messages = []\n if (\n len(set(self.args.lang_pairs).symmetric_difference(args.lang_pairs))\n != 0\n ):\n messages.append(\n \"--lang-pairs should include all the language pairs {}.\".format(\n args.lang_pairs\n )\n )\n if self.args.encoder_langtok != args.encoder_langtok:\n messages.append(\n \"--encoder-langtok should be {}.\".format(args.encoder_langtok)\n )\n if self.args.decoder_langtok != args.decoder_langtok:\n messages.append(\n \"--decoder-langtok should {} be set.\".format(\n \"\" if args.decoder_langtok else \"not\"\n )\n )\n\n if len(messages) > 0:\n raise ValueError(\" \".join(messages))\n\n # Check if task args are consistant with model args\n check_args()\n\n from fairseq import models\n\n model = models.build_model(args, self)\n if not isinstance(model, FairseqMultiModel):\n raise ValueError(\n \"MultilingualTranslationTask requires a FairseqMultiModel architecture\"\n )\n return model\n\n def train_step(self, sample, model, criterion, optimizer, ignore_grad=False):\n model.train()\n agg_loss, agg_sample_size, agg_logging_output = 0.0, 0.0, {}\n for lang_pair in self.model_lang_pairs:\n if sample[lang_pair] is None or len(sample[lang_pair]) == 0:\n continue\n loss, sample_size, logging_output = criterion(\n model.models[lang_pair], sample[lang_pair]\n )\n if ignore_grad:\n loss *= 0\n optimizer.backward(loss)\n agg_loss += loss.detach().item()\n # TODO make summing of the sample sizes configurable\n agg_sample_size += sample_size\n agg_logging_output[lang_pair] = logging_output\n return agg_loss, agg_sample_size, agg_logging_output\n\n def valid_step(self, sample, model, criterion):\n model.eval()\n with torch.no_grad():\n agg_loss, agg_sample_size, agg_logging_output = 0.0, 0.0, {}\n for lang_pair in self.eval_lang_pairs:\n if (\n lang_pair not in sample\n or sample[lang_pair] is None\n or len(sample[lang_pair]) == 0\n ):\n continue\n loss, sample_size, logging_output = criterion(\n model.models[lang_pair], sample[lang_pair]\n )\n agg_loss += loss.data.item()\n # TODO make summing of the sample sizes configurable\n agg_sample_size += sample_size\n agg_logging_output[lang_pair] = logging_output\n return agg_loss, agg_sample_size, agg_logging_output\n\n def inference_step(self, generator, models, sample, prefix_tokens=None):\n with torch.no_grad():\n return generator.generate(\n models,\n sample,\n prefix_tokens=prefix_tokens,\n bos_token=_lang_token_index(\n self.target_dictionary, self.args.target_lang\n )\n if self.args.decoder_langtok\n else self.target_dictionary.eos(),\n )\n\n def init_logging_output(self, sample):\n return {\n \"ntokens\": sum(\n sample_lang.get(\"ntokens\", 0) for sample_lang in sample.values()\n )\n if sample is not None\n else 0,\n \"nsentences\": sum(\n sample_lang[\"target\"].size(0) if \"target\" in sample_lang else 0\n for sample_lang in sample.values()\n )\n if sample is not None\n else 0,\n }\n\n def grad_denom(self, sample_sizes, criterion):\n return criterion.__class__.grad_denom(sample_sizes)\n\n def aggregate_logging_outputs(\n self, logging_outputs, criterion, logging_output_keys=None\n ):\n logging_output_keys = logging_output_keys or self.eval_lang_pairs\n # aggregate logging outputs for each language pair\n agg_logging_outputs = {\n key: criterion.__class__.aggregate_logging_outputs(\n [logging_output.get(key, {}) for logging_output in logging_outputs]\n )\n for key in logging_output_keys\n }\n\n def sum_over_languages(key):\n return sum(\n logging_output[key] for logging_output in agg_logging_outputs.values()\n )\n\n # flatten logging outputs\n flat_logging_output = {\n \"{}:{}\".format(lang_pair, k): v\n for lang_pair, agg_logging_output in agg_logging_outputs.items()\n for k, v in agg_logging_output.items()\n }\n flat_logging_output[\"loss\"] = sum_over_languages(\"loss\")\n if any(\n \"nll_loss\" in logging_output\n for logging_output in agg_logging_outputs.values()\n ):\n flat_logging_output[\"nll_loss\"] = sum_over_languages(\"nll_loss\")\n flat_logging_output[\"sample_size\"] = sum_over_languages(\"sample_size\")\n flat_logging_output[\"nsentences\"] = sum_over_languages(\"nsentences\")\n flat_logging_output[\"ntokens\"] = sum_over_languages(\"ntokens\")\n return flat_logging_output\n\n @property\n def source_dictionary(self):\n return self.dicts[self.args.source_lang]\n\n @property\n def target_dictionary(self):\n return self.dicts[self.args.target_lang]\n\n def max_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Return the max sentence length allowed by the task.\"\"\"\n if len(self.datasets.values()) == 0:\n return {\n \"%s-%s\"\n % (self.args.source_lang, self.args.target_lang): (\n self.args.max_source_positions,\n self.args.max_target_positions,\n )\n }\n return OrderedDict(\n [\n (key, (self.args.max_source_positions, self.args.max_target_positions))\n for split in self.datasets.keys()\n for key in self.datasets[split].datasets.keys()\n ]\n )\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/tasks/semisupervised_translation.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom collections import OrderedDict\nimport os\n\nfrom fairseq.data import (\n BacktranslationDataset,\n IndexedCachedDataset,\n IndexedDataset,\n IndexedRawTextDataset,\n LanguagePairDataset,\n NoisingDataset,\n RoundRobinZipDatasets,\n)\nfrom fairseq.models import FairseqMultiModel\nfrom fairseq.sequence_generator import SequenceGenerator\n\n\nfrom .multilingual_translation import MultilingualTranslationTask\nfrom . import register_task\n\n\ndef _get_bt_dataset_key(lang_pair):\n return \"bt:\" + lang_pair\n\n\ndef _get_denoising_dataset_key(lang_pair):\n return \"denoising:\" + lang_pair\n\n\n# ported from UnsupervisedMT\ndef parse_lambda_config(x):\n \"\"\"\n Parse the configuration of lambda coefficient (for scheduling).\n x = \"3\" # lambda will be a constant equal to x\n x = \"0:1,1000:0\" # lambda will start from 1 and linearly decrease\n # to 0 during the first 1000 iterations\n x = \"0:0,1000:0,2000:1\" # lambda will be equal to 0 for the first 1000\n # iterations, then will linearly increase to 1 until iteration 2000\n \"\"\"\n split = x.split(\",\")\n if len(split) == 1:\n return float(x), None\n else:\n split = [s.split(\":\") for s in split]\n assert all(len(s) == 2 for s in split)\n assert all(k.isdigit() for k, _ in split)\n assert all(\n int(split[i][0]) < int(split[i + 1][0]) for i in range(len(split) - 1)\n )\n return float(split[0][1]), [(int(k), float(v)) for k, v in split]\n\n\n@register_task(\"semisupervised_translation\")\nclass SemisupervisedTranslationTask(MultilingualTranslationTask):\n \"\"\"A task for training multiple translation models simultaneously.\n\n We iterate round-robin over batches from multiple language pairs, ordered\n according to the `--lang-pairs` argument.\n\n The training loop is roughly:\n\n for i in range(len(epoch)):\n for lang_pair in args.lang_pairs:\n batch = next_batch_for_lang_pair(lang_pair)\n loss = criterion(model_for_lang_pair(lang_pair), batch)\n loss.backward()\n optimizer.step()\n\n In practice, `next_batch_for_lang_pair` is abstracted in a FairseqDataset\n (e.g., `RoundRobinZipDatasets`) and `model_for_lang_pair` is a model that\n implements the `FairseqMultiModel` interface.\n\n During inference it is required to specify a single `--source-lang` and\n `--target-lang`, instead of `--lang-pairs`.\n \"\"\"\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add task-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n # fmt: off\n MultilingualTranslationTask.add_args(parser)\n parser.add_argument('--lambda-parallel-config', default=\"1.0\", type=str, metavar='CONFIG',\n help='cross-entropy reconstruction coefficient (parallel data). '\n 'use fixed weight during training if set to floating point number. '\n 'use piecewise linear function over number of updates to schedule the '\n 'weight with the format: w0:step0,w1:step1,...')\n parser.add_argument('--lambda-denoising-config', default=\"0.0\", type=str, metavar='CONFIG',\n help='Cross-entropy reconstruction coefficient (denoising autoencoding)'\n 'use fixed weight during training if set to floating point number. '\n 'use piecewise linear function over number of updates to schedule the '\n 'weight with the format: w0:step0,w1:step1,...')\n parser.add_argument('--lambda-otf-bt-config', default=\"0.0\", type=str, metavar='CONFIG',\n help='cross-entropy reconstruction coefficient (on-the-fly back-translation parallel data)'\n 'use fixed weight during training if set to floating point number. '\n 'use piecewise linear function over number of updates to schedule the '\n 'weight with the format: w0:step0,w1:step1,...')\n parser.add_argument('--bt-max-len-a', default=1.1, type=float, metavar='N',\n help='generate back-translated sequences of maximum length ax + b, where x is the '\n 'source length')\n parser.add_argument('--bt-max-len-b', default=10.0, type=float, metavar='N',\n help='generate back-translated sequences of maximum length ax + b, where x is the '\n 'source length')\n parser.add_argument('--bt-beam-size', default=1, type=int, metavar='N',\n help='beam size used in beam search of online back-translation')\n parser.add_argument('--max-word-shuffle-distance', default=3.0, type=float, metavar='N',\n help='maximum word shuffle distance for denoising autoencoding data generation')\n parser.add_argument('--word-dropout-prob', default=0.1, type=float, metavar='N',\n help='word dropout probability for denoising autoencoding data generation')\n parser.add_argument('--word-blanking-prob', default=0.2, type=float, metavar='N',\n help='word blanking probability for denoising autoencoding data generation')\n # fmt: on\n\n def __init__(self, args, dicts, training):\n super().__init__(args, dicts, training)\n self.lambda_parallel, self.lambda_parallel_steps = parse_lambda_config(\n args.lambda_parallel_config\n )\n self.lambda_otf_bt, self.lambda_otf_bt_steps = parse_lambda_config(\n args.lambda_otf_bt_config\n )\n self.lambda_denoising, self.lambda_denoising_steps = parse_lambda_config(\n args.lambda_denoising_config\n )\n if self.lambda_denoising > 0.0 or self.lambda_denoising_steps is not None:\n denoising_lang_pairs = [\n \"%s-%s\" % (tgt, tgt)\n for tgt in {lang_pair.split(\"-\")[1] for lang_pair in args.lang_pairs}\n ]\n self.model_lang_pairs = self.model_lang_pairs + denoising_lang_pairs\n self.backtranslate_datasets = {}\n self.backtranslators = {}\n\n @classmethod\n def setup_task(cls, args, **kwargs):\n dicts, training = MultilingualTranslationTask.prepare(args, **kwargs)\n return cls(args, dicts, training)\n\n def load_dataset(self, split, epoch=0, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Load a dataset split.\"\"\"\n\n paths = self.args.data.split(\":\")\n assert len(paths) > 0\n data_path = paths[epoch % len(paths)]\n\n def split_exists(split, src, tgt, lang):\n if src is not None:\n filename = os.path.join(\n data_path, \"{}.{}-{}.{}\".format(split, src, tgt, lang)\n )\n else:\n filename = os.path.join(\n data_path, \"{}.{}-None.{}\".format(split, src, tgt)\n )\n if self.args.raw_text and IndexedRawTextDataset.exists(filename):\n return True\n elif not self.args.raw_text and IndexedDataset.exists(filename):\n return True\n return False\n\n def indexed_dataset(path, dictionary):\n if self.args.raw_text:\n return IndexedRawTextDataset(path, dictionary)\n elif IndexedDataset.exists(path):\n if self.args.lazy_load:\n return IndexedDataset(path, fix_lua_indexing=True)\n else:\n return IndexedCachedDataset(path, fix_lua_indexing=True)\n return None\n\n # load parallel datasets\n src_datasets, tgt_datasets = {}, {}\n if (\n self.lambda_parallel > 0.0\n or self.lambda_parallel_steps is not None\n or not split.startswith(\"train\")\n ):\n for lang_pair in self.lang_pairs:\n src, tgt = lang_pair.split(\"-\")\n if split_exists(split, src, tgt, src):\n prefix = os.path.join(\n data_path, \"{}.{}-{}.\".format(split, src, tgt)\n )\n elif split_exists(split, tgt, src, src):\n prefix = os.path.join(\n data_path, \"{}.{}-{}.\".format(split, tgt, src)\n )\n else:\n continue\n src_datasets[lang_pair] = indexed_dataset(prefix + src, self.dicts[src])\n tgt_datasets[lang_pair] = indexed_dataset(prefix + tgt, self.dicts[tgt])\n print(\n \"| parallel-{} {} {} examples\".format(\n data_path, split, len(src_datasets[lang_pair])\n )\n )\n if len(src_datasets) == 0:\n raise FileNotFoundError(\n \"Dataset not found: {} ({})\".format(split, data_path)\n )\n\n # back translation datasets\n backtranslate_datasets = {}\n if (\n self.lambda_otf_bt > 0.0 or self.lambda_otf_bt_steps is not None\n ) and split.startswith(\"train\"):\n for lang_pair in self.lang_pairs:\n src, tgt = lang_pair.split(\"-\")\n if not split_exists(split, tgt, None, tgt):\n raise FileNotFoundError(\n \"Dataset not found: backtranslation {} ({})\".format(\n split, data_path\n )\n )\n filename = os.path.join(\n data_path, \"{}.{}-None.{}\".format(split, tgt, tgt)\n )\n dataset = indexed_dataset(filename, self.dicts[tgt])\n lang_pair_dataset_tgt = LanguagePairDataset(\n dataset,\n dataset.sizes,\n self.dicts[tgt],\n left_pad_source=self.args.left_pad_source,\n left_pad_target=self.args.left_pad_target,\n )\n lang_pair_dataset = LanguagePairDataset(\n dataset,\n dataset.sizes,\n src_dict=self.dicts[src],\n tgt=dataset,\n tgt_sizes=dataset.sizes,\n tgt_dict=self.dicts[tgt],\n left_pad_source=self.args.left_pad_source,\n left_pad_target=self.args.left_pad_target,\n )\n backtranslate_datasets[lang_pair] = BacktranslationDataset(\n tgt_dataset=self.alter_dataset_langtok(\n lang_pair_dataset_tgt,\n src_eos=self.dicts[tgt].eos(),\n src_lang=tgt,\n tgt_lang=src,\n ),\n backtranslation_fn=self.backtranslators[lang_pair],\n src_dict=self.dicts[src],\n tgt_dict=self.dicts[tgt],\n output_collater=self.alter_dataset_langtok(\n lang_pair_dataset=lang_pair_dataset,\n src_eos=self.dicts[src].eos(),\n src_lang=src,\n tgt_eos=self.dicts[tgt].eos(),\n tgt_lang=tgt,\n ).collater,\n )\n print(\n \"| backtranslate-{}: {} {} {} examples\".format(\n tgt, data_path, split, len(backtranslate_datasets[lang_pair]),\n )\n )\n self.backtranslate_datasets[lang_pair] = backtranslate_datasets[\n lang_pair\n ]\n\n # denoising autoencoder\n noising_datasets = {}\n if (\n self.lambda_denoising > 0.0 or self.lambda_denoising_steps is not None\n ) and split.startswith(\"train\"):\n for lang_pair in self.lang_pairs:\n _, tgt = lang_pair.split(\"-\")\n if not split_exists(split, tgt, None, tgt):\n continue\n filename = os.path.join(\n data_path, \"{}.{}-None.{}\".format(split, tgt, tgt)\n )\n tgt_dataset1 = indexed_dataset(filename, self.dicts[tgt])\n tgt_dataset2 = indexed_dataset(filename, self.dicts[tgt])\n noising_dataset = NoisingDataset(\n tgt_dataset1,\n self.dicts[tgt],\n seed=1,\n max_word_shuffle_distance=self.args.max_word_shuffle_distance,\n word_dropout_prob=self.args.word_dropout_prob,\n word_blanking_prob=self.args.word_blanking_prob,\n )\n noising_datasets[lang_pair] = self.alter_dataset_langtok(\n LanguagePairDataset(\n noising_dataset,\n tgt_dataset1.sizes,\n self.dicts[tgt],\n tgt_dataset2,\n tgt_dataset2.sizes,\n self.dicts[tgt],\n left_pad_source=self.args.left_pad_source,\n left_pad_target=self.args.left_pad_target,\n ),\n src_eos=self.dicts[tgt].eos(),\n src_lang=tgt,\n tgt_eos=self.dicts[tgt].eos(),\n tgt_lang=tgt,\n )\n print(\n \"| denoising-{}: {} {} {} examples\".format(\n tgt, data_path, split, len(noising_datasets[lang_pair]),\n )\n )\n\n def language_pair_dataset(lang_pair):\n src, tgt = lang_pair.split(\"-\")\n src_dataset, tgt_dataset = src_datasets[lang_pair], tgt_datasets[lang_pair]\n return self.alter_dataset_langtok(\n LanguagePairDataset(\n src_dataset,\n src_dataset.sizes,\n self.dicts[src],\n tgt_dataset,\n tgt_dataset.sizes,\n self.dicts[tgt],\n left_pad_source=self.args.left_pad_source,\n left_pad_target=self.args.left_pad_target,\n max_source_positions=self.args.max_source_positions,\n max_target_positions=self.args.max_target_positions,\n ),\n self.dicts[src].eos(),\n src,\n self.dicts[tgt].eos(),\n tgt,\n )\n\n self.datasets[split] = RoundRobinZipDatasets(\n OrderedDict(\n [\n (lang_pair, language_pair_dataset(lang_pair))\n for lang_pair in src_datasets.keys()\n ]\n + [\n (_get_bt_dataset_key(lang_pair), dataset)\n for lang_pair, dataset in backtranslate_datasets.items()\n ]\n + [\n (_get_denoising_dataset_key(lang_pair), dataset)\n for lang_pair, dataset in noising_datasets.items()\n ]\n ),\n eval_key=None\n if self.training\n else \"%s-%s\" % (self.args.source_lang, self.args.target_lang),\n )\n\n def build_model(self, args):\n from fairseq import models\n\n model = models.build_model(args, self)\n if not isinstance(model, FairseqMultiModel):\n raise ValueError(\n \"SemisupervisedTranslationTask requires a FairseqMultiModel architecture\"\n )\n\n # create SequenceGenerator for each model that has backtranslation dependency on it\n self.sequence_generators = {}\n if (\n self.lambda_otf_bt > 0.0 or self.lambda_otf_bt_steps is not None\n ) and self.training:\n for lang_pair in self.lang_pairs:\n src, tgt = lang_pair.split(\"-\")\n key = \"{}-{}\".format(tgt, src)\n self.sequence_generators[key] = SequenceGenerator(\n tgt_dict=self.dicts[src],\n beam_size=args.bt_beam_size,\n max_len_a=args.bt_max_len_a,\n max_len_b=args.bt_max_len_b,\n )\n decoder_lang_tok_idx = self.get_decoder_langtok(src)\n\n def backtranslate_fn(\n sample,\n model=model.models[key],\n bos_token=decoder_lang_tok_idx,\n sequence_generator=self.sequence_generators[key],\n ):\n return sequence_generator.generate(\n [model], sample, bos_token=bos_token,\n )\n\n self.backtranslators[lang_pair] = backtranslate_fn\n\n return model\n\n def train_step(self, sample, model, criterion, optimizer, ignore_grad=False):\n model.train()\n agg_loss, agg_sample_size, agg_logging_output = 0.0, 0.0, {}\n\n def forward_backward(model, samples, logging_output_key, weight):\n nonlocal agg_loss, agg_sample_size, agg_logging_output\n if samples is None or len(samples) == 0:\n return\n loss, sample_size, logging_output = criterion(model, samples)\n if ignore_grad:\n loss *= 0\n else:\n loss *= weight\n optimizer.backward(loss)\n agg_loss += loss.detach().item()\n # TODO make summing of the sample sizes configurable\n agg_sample_size += sample_size\n agg_logging_output[logging_output_key] = logging_output\n\n if self.lambda_parallel > 0.0:\n for lang_pair in self.lang_pairs:\n forward_backward(\n model.models[lang_pair],\n sample[lang_pair],\n lang_pair,\n self.lambda_parallel,\n )\n\n if self.lambda_otf_bt > 0.0:\n for lang_pair in self.lang_pairs:\n sample_key = _get_bt_dataset_key(lang_pair)\n forward_backward(\n model.models[lang_pair],\n sample[sample_key],\n sample_key,\n self.lambda_otf_bt,\n )\n\n if self.lambda_denoising > 0.0:\n for lang_pair in self.lang_pairs:\n _, tgt = lang_pair.split(\"-\")\n sample_key = _get_denoising_dataset_key(lang_pair)\n forward_backward(\n model.models[\"{0}-{0}\".format(tgt)],\n sample[sample_key],\n sample_key,\n self.lambda_denoising,\n )\n\n return agg_loss, agg_sample_size, agg_logging_output\n\n def update_step(self, num_updates):\n def lambda_step_func(config, n_iter):\n \"\"\"\n Update a lambda value according to its schedule configuration.\n \"\"\"\n ranges = [\n i\n for i in range(len(config) - 1)\n if config[i][0] <= n_iter < config[i + 1][0]\n ]\n if len(ranges) == 0:\n assert n_iter >= config[-1][0]\n return config[-1][1]\n assert len(ranges) == 1\n i = ranges[0]\n x_a, y_a = config[i]\n x_b, y_b = config[i + 1]\n return y_a + (n_iter - x_a) * float(y_b - y_a) / float(x_b - x_a)\n\n if self.lambda_parallel_steps is not None:\n self.lambda_parallel = lambda_step_func(\n self.lambda_parallel_steps, num_updates\n )\n if self.lambda_denoising_steps is not None:\n self.lambda_denoising = lambda_step_func(\n self.lambda_denoising_steps, num_updates\n )\n if self.lambda_otf_bt_steps is not None:\n self.lambda_otf_bt = lambda_step_func(self.lambda_otf_bt_steps, num_updates)\n\n def aggregate_logging_outputs(self, logging_outputs, criterion):\n # aggregate logging outputs for each language pair\n logging_output_keys = {\n key for logging_output in logging_outputs for key in logging_output\n }\n lang_pair_keys = set(\n self.lang_pairs\n + [_get_bt_dataset_key(lang_pair) for lang_pair in self.lang_pairs]\n + [_get_denoising_dataset_key(lang_pair) for lang_pair in self.lang_pairs]\n )\n logging_output_keys = logging_output_keys.intersection(lang_pair_keys)\n return super().aggregate_logging_outputs(\n logging_outputs, criterion, logging_output_keys\n )\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/tasks/sentence_prediction.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport os\n\nimport numpy as np\n\nfrom fairseq.data import (\n ConcatSentencesDataset,\n data_utils,\n Dictionary,\n IdDataset,\n NestedDictionaryDataset,\n NumSamplesDataset,\n NumelDataset,\n OffsetTokensDataset,\n PrependTokenDataset,\n RawLabelDataset,\n RightPadDataset,\n RollDataset,\n SortDataset,\n StripTokenDataset,\n TruncateDataset,\n)\n\nfrom . import FairseqTask, register_task\n\n\n@register_task(\"sentence_prediction\")\nclass SentencePredictionTask(FairseqTask):\n \"\"\"\n Sentence (or sentence pair) prediction (classification or regression) task.\n\n Args:\n dictionary (Dictionary): the dictionary for the input of the task\n \"\"\"\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add task-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n parser.add_argument(\"data\", metavar=\"FILE\", help=\"file prefix for data\")\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--num-classes\", type=int, default=-1, help=\"number of classes\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--init-token\",\n type=int,\n default=None,\n help=\"add token at the beginning of each batch item\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--separator-token\",\n type=int,\n default=None,\n help=\"add separator token between inputs\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\"--regression-target\", action=\"store_true\", default=False)\n parser.add_argument(\"--no-shuffle\", action=\"store_true\", default=False)\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--truncate-sequence\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n default=False,\n help=\"Truncate sequence to max_sequence_length\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--add-prev-output-tokens\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n default=False,\n help=\"Add prev_output_tokens to sample, used for encoder-decoder arch\",\n )\n\n def __init__(self, args, data_dictionary, label_dictionary):\n super().__init__(args)\n self.dictionary = data_dictionary\n self._label_dictionary = label_dictionary\n if not hasattr(args, \"max_positions\"):\n self._max_positions = (\n args.max_source_positions,\n args.max_target_positions,\n )\n else:\n self._max_positions = args.max_positions\n args.tokens_per_sample = self._max_positions\n\n @classmethod\n def load_dictionary(cls, args, filename, source=True):\n \"\"\"Load the dictionary from the filename\n\n Args:\n filename (str): the filename\n \"\"\"\n dictionary = Dictionary.load(filename)\n dictionary.add_symbol(\"<mask>\")\n return dictionary\n\n @classmethod\n def setup_task(cls, args, **kwargs):\n assert args.num_classes > 0, \"Must set --num-classes\"\n\n # load data dictionary\n data_dict = cls.load_dictionary(\n args, os.path.join(args.data, \"input0\", \"dict.txt\"), source=True,\n )\n print(\"| [input] dictionary: {} types\".format(len(data_dict)))\n\n label_dict = None\n if not args.regression_target:\n # load label dictionary\n label_dict = cls.load_dictionary(\n args, os.path.join(args.data, \"label\", \"dict.txt\"), source=False,\n )\n print(\"| [label] dictionary: {} types\".format(len(label_dict)))\n else:\n label_dict = data_dict\n return SentencePredictionTask(args, data_dict, label_dict)\n\n def load_dataset(self, split, combine=False, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Load a given dataset split (e.g., train, valid, test).\"\"\"\n\n def get_path(type, split):\n return os.path.join(self.args.data, type, split)\n\n def make_dataset(type, dictionary):\n split_path = get_path(type, split)\n\n dataset = data_utils.load_indexed_dataset(\n split_path,\n self.source_dictionary,\n self.args.dataset_impl,\n combine=combine,\n )\n return dataset\n\n input0 = make_dataset(\"input0\", self.source_dictionary)\n assert input0 is not None, \"could not find dataset: {}\".format(\n get_path(type, split)\n )\n input1 = make_dataset(\"input1\", self.source_dictionary)\n\n if self.args.init_token is not None:\n input0 = PrependTokenDataset(input0, self.args.init_token)\n\n if input1 is None:\n src_tokens = input0\n else:\n if self.args.separator_token is not None:\n input1 = PrependTokenDataset(input1, self.args.separator_token)\n\n src_tokens = ConcatSentencesDataset(input0, input1)\n\n with data_utils.numpy_seed(self.args.seed):\n shuffle = np.random.permutation(len(src_tokens))\n\n if self.args.truncate_sequence:\n src_tokens = TruncateDataset(src_tokens, self.args.max_positions)\n\n dataset = {\n \"id\": IdDataset(),\n \"net_input\": {\n \"src_tokens\": RightPadDataset(\n src_tokens, pad_idx=self.source_dictionary.pad(),\n ),\n \"src_lengths\": NumelDataset(src_tokens, reduce=False),\n },\n \"nsentences\": NumSamplesDataset(),\n \"ntokens\": NumelDataset(src_tokens, reduce=True),\n }\n\n if self.args.add_prev_output_tokens:\n prev_tokens_dataset = RightPadDataset(\n RollDataset(src_tokens, 1), pad_idx=self.dictionary.pad(),\n )\n dataset[\"net_input\"].update(prev_output_tokens=prev_tokens_dataset,)\n\n if not self.args.regression_target:\n label_dataset = make_dataset(\"label\", self.target_dictionary)\n if label_dataset is not None:\n dataset.update(\n target=OffsetTokensDataset(\n StripTokenDataset(\n label_dataset, id_to_strip=self.target_dictionary.eos(),\n ),\n offset=-self.target_dictionary.nspecial,\n )\n )\n else:\n label_path = \"{0}.label\".format(get_path(\"label\", split))\n if os.path.exists(label_path):\n dataset.update(\n target=RawLabelDataset(\n [float(x.strip()) for x in open(label_path).readlines()]\n )\n )\n\n nested_dataset = NestedDictionaryDataset(dataset, sizes=[src_tokens.sizes],)\n\n if self.args.no_shuffle:\n dataset = nested_dataset\n else:\n dataset = SortDataset(\n nested_dataset,\n # shuffle\n sort_order=[shuffle],\n )\n\n print(\"| Loaded {0} with #samples: {1}\".format(split, len(dataset)))\n\n self.datasets[split] = dataset\n return self.datasets[split]\n\n def build_model(self, args):\n from fairseq import models\n\n model = models.build_model(args, self)\n\n model.register_classification_head(\n \"sentence_classification_head\", num_classes=self.args.num_classes,\n )\n\n return model\n\n def max_positions(self):\n return self._max_positions\n\n @property\n def source_dictionary(self):\n return self.dictionary\n\n @property\n def target_dictionary(self):\n return self.dictionary\n\n @property\n def label_dictionary(self):\n return self._label_dictionary\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/tasks/sentence_ranking.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport os\n\nimport numpy as np\n\nfrom fairseq.data import (\n ConcatSentencesDataset,\n data_utils,\n Dictionary,\n IdDataset,\n NestedDictionaryDataset,\n NumSamplesDataset,\n NumelDataset,\n PrependTokenDataset,\n RawLabelDataset,\n RightPadDataset,\n SortDataset,\n TruncateDataset,\n)\n\nfrom . import FairseqTask, register_task\n\n\n@register_task(\"sentence_ranking\")\nclass SentenceRankingTask(FairseqTask):\n \"\"\"\n Ranking task on multiple sentences.\n\n Args:\n dictionary (Dictionary): the dictionary for the input of the task\n \"\"\"\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add task-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n parser.add_argument(\"data\", metavar=\"FILE\", help=\"file prefix for data\")\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--num-classes\", type=int, help=\"number of sentences to be ranked\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--init-token\",\n type=int,\n help=\"add token at the beginning of each batch item\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--separator-token\", type=int, help=\"add separator token between inputs\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\"--no-shuffle\", action=\"store_true\")\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--truncate-sequence\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"Truncate sequence to max_positions\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--max-option-length\", type=int, help=\"max length for each option\"\n )\n\n def __init__(self, args, dictionary):\n super().__init__(args)\n self.dictionary = dictionary\n\n @classmethod\n def load_dictionary(cls, args, filename, source=True):\n \"\"\"Load the dictionary from the filename\n\n Args:\n filename (str): the filename\n \"\"\"\n dictionary = Dictionary.load(filename)\n dictionary.add_symbol(\"<mask>\")\n return dictionary\n\n @classmethod\n def setup_task(cls, args, **kwargs):\n assert (\n args.criterion == \"sentence_ranking\"\n ), \"Must set --criterion=sentence_ranking\"\n\n # load data dictionary\n data_dict = cls.load_dictionary(\n args, os.path.join(args.data, \"input0\", \"dict.txt\"), source=True,\n )\n print(\"| [input] dictionary: {} types\".format(len(data_dict)))\n return SentenceRankingTask(args, data_dict)\n\n def load_dataset(self, split, combine=False, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Load a given dataset split (e.g., train, valid, test).\"\"\"\n\n def get_path(type, split):\n return os.path.join(self.args.data, type, split)\n\n def make_dataset(type, dictionary):\n split_path = get_path(type, split)\n\n dataset = data_utils.load_indexed_dataset(\n split_path,\n self.source_dictionary,\n self.args.dataset_impl,\n combine=combine,\n )\n return dataset\n\n input0 = make_dataset(\"input0\", self.source_dictionary)\n input_options = [\n make_dataset(\"input{idx}\".format(idx=idx + 1), self.source_dictionary)\n for idx in range(self.args.num_classes)\n ]\n\n if self.args.separator_token is not None:\n input0 = PrependTokenDataset(input0, self.args.separator_token)\n\n src_tokens = []\n for input_option in input_options:\n if self.args.init_token is not None:\n input_option = PrependTokenDataset(input_option, self.args.init_token)\n if self.args.max_option_length is not None:\n input_option = TruncateDataset(\n input_option, self.args.max_option_length\n )\n src_token = ConcatSentencesDataset(input_option, input0)\n if self.args.truncate_sequence:\n src_token = TruncateDataset(src_token, self.args.max_positions)\n src_tokens.append(src_token)\n\n with data_utils.numpy_seed(self.args.seed):\n shuffle = np.random.permutation(len(src_tokens[0]))\n\n dataset = {\n \"id\": IdDataset(),\n \"nsentences\": NumSamplesDataset(),\n \"ntokens\": NumelDataset(src_tokens[0], reduce=True),\n }\n\n for src_token_idx in range(len(src_tokens)):\n dataset.update(\n {\n \"net_input{idx}\".format(idx=src_token_idx + 1): {\n \"src_tokens\": RightPadDataset(\n src_tokens[src_token_idx],\n pad_idx=self.source_dictionary.pad(),\n ),\n \"src_lengths\": NumelDataset(\n src_tokens[src_token_idx], reduce=False\n ),\n }\n }\n )\n\n label_path = \"{}.label\".format(get_path(\"label\", split))\n if os.path.exists(label_path):\n with open(label_path) as h:\n dataset.update(\n target=RawLabelDataset([int(x.strip()) for x in h.readlines()])\n )\n\n nested_dataset = NestedDictionaryDataset(\n dataset,\n sizes=[np.maximum.reduce([src_token.sizes for src_token in src_tokens])],\n )\n\n if self.args.no_shuffle:\n dataset = nested_dataset\n else:\n dataset = SortDataset(\n nested_dataset,\n # shuffle\n sort_order=[shuffle],\n )\n\n print(\"| Loaded {0} with #samples: {1}\".format(split, len(dataset)))\n\n self.datasets[split] = dataset\n return self.datasets[split]\n\n def build_model(self, args):\n from fairseq import models\n\n model = models.build_model(args, self)\n\n model.register_classification_head(\n \"sentence_classification_head\", num_classes=1,\n )\n\n return model\n\n def max_positions(self):\n return self.args.max_positions\n\n @property\n def source_dictionary(self):\n return self.dictionary\n\n @property\n def target_dictionary(self):\n return self.dictionary\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/tasks/translation.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport itertools\nimport os\n\nfrom fairseq import options, utils\nfrom fairseq.data import (\n AppendTokenDataset,\n ConcatDataset,\n data_utils,\n indexed_dataset,\n LanguagePairDataset,\n PrependTokenDataset,\n StripTokenDataset,\n TruncateDataset,\n)\n\nfrom . import FairseqTask, register_task\n\n\ndef load_langpair_dataset(\n data_path,\n split,\n src,\n src_dict,\n tgt,\n tgt_dict,\n combine,\n dataset_impl,\n upsample_primary,\n left_pad_source,\n left_pad_target,\n max_source_positions,\n max_target_positions,\n prepend_bos=False,\n load_alignments=False,\n truncate_source=False,\n):\n def split_exists(split, src, tgt, lang, data_path):\n filename = os.path.join(data_path, \"{}.{}-{}.{}\".format(split, src, tgt, lang))\n return indexed_dataset.dataset_exists(filename, impl=dataset_impl)\n\n src_datasets = []\n tgt_datasets = []\n\n for k in itertools.count():\n split_k = split + (str(k) if k > 0 else \"\")\n\n # infer langcode\n if split_exists(split_k, src, tgt, src, data_path):\n prefix = os.path.join(data_path, \"{}.{}-{}.\".format(split_k, src, tgt))\n elif split_exists(split_k, tgt, src, src, data_path):\n prefix = os.path.join(data_path, \"{}.{}-{}.\".format(split_k, tgt, src))\n else:\n if k > 0:\n break\n else:\n raise FileNotFoundError(\n \"Dataset not found: {} ({})\".format(split, data_path)\n )\n\n src_dataset = data_utils.load_indexed_dataset(\n prefix + src, src_dict, dataset_impl\n )\n if truncate_source:\n src_dataset = AppendTokenDataset(\n TruncateDataset(\n StripTokenDataset(src_dataset, src_dict.eos()),\n max_source_positions - 1,\n ),\n src_dict.eos(),\n )\n src_datasets.append(src_dataset)\n tgt_datasets.append(\n data_utils.load_indexed_dataset(prefix + tgt, tgt_dict, dataset_impl)\n )\n\n print(\n \"| {} {} {}-{} {} examples\".format(\n data_path, split_k, src, tgt, len(src_datasets[-1])\n )\n )\n\n if not combine:\n break\n\n assert len(src_datasets) == len(tgt_datasets)\n\n if len(src_datasets) == 1:\n src_dataset, tgt_dataset = src_datasets[0], tgt_datasets[0]\n else:\n sample_ratios = [1] * len(src_datasets)\n sample_ratios[0] = upsample_primary\n src_dataset = ConcatDataset(src_datasets, sample_ratios)\n tgt_dataset = ConcatDataset(tgt_datasets, sample_ratios)\n\n if prepend_bos:\n assert hasattr(src_dict, \"bos_index\") and hasattr(tgt_dict, \"bos_index\")\n src_dataset = PrependTokenDataset(src_dataset, src_dict.bos())\n tgt_dataset = PrependTokenDataset(tgt_dataset, tgt_dict.bos())\n\n align_dataset = None\n if load_alignments:\n align_path = os.path.join(data_path, \"{}.align.{}-{}\".format(split, src, tgt))\n if indexed_dataset.dataset_exists(align_path, impl=dataset_impl):\n align_dataset = data_utils.load_indexed_dataset(\n align_path, None, dataset_impl\n )\n\n return LanguagePairDataset(\n src_dataset,\n src_dataset.sizes,\n src_dict,\n tgt_dataset,\n tgt_dataset.sizes,\n tgt_dict,\n left_pad_source=left_pad_source,\n left_pad_target=left_pad_target,\n max_source_positions=max_source_positions,\n max_target_positions=max_target_positions,\n align_dataset=align_dataset,\n )\n\n\n@register_task(\"translation\")\nclass TranslationTask(FairseqTask):\n \"\"\"\n Translate from one (source) language to another (target) language.\n\n Args:\n src_dict (~fairseq.data.Dictionary): dictionary for the source language\n tgt_dict (~fairseq.data.Dictionary): dictionary for the target language\n\n .. note::\n\n The translation task is compatible with :mod:`fairseq-train`,\n :mod:`fairseq-generate` and :mod:`fairseq-interactive`.\n\n The translation task provides the following additional command-line\n arguments:\n\n .. argparse::\n :ref: fairseq.tasks.translation_parser\n :prog:\n \"\"\"\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add task-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument('data', help='colon separated path to data directories list, \\\n will be iterated upon during epochs in round-robin manner')\n parser.add_argument('-s', '--source-lang', default=None, metavar='SRC',\n help='source language')\n parser.add_argument('-t', '--target-lang', default=None, metavar='TARGET',\n help='target language')\n parser.add_argument('--lazy-load', action='store_true',\n help='load the dataset lazily')\n parser.add_argument('--raw-text', action='store_true',\n help='load raw text dataset')\n parser.add_argument('--load-alignments', action='store_true',\n help='load the binarized alignments')\n parser.add_argument('--left-pad-source', default='True', type=str, metavar='BOOL',\n help='pad the source on the left')\n parser.add_argument('--left-pad-target', default='False', type=str, metavar='BOOL',\n help='pad the target on the left')\n parser.add_argument('--max-source-positions', default=1024, type=int, metavar='N',\n help='max number of tokens in the source sequence')\n parser.add_argument('--max-target-positions', default=1024, type=int, metavar='N',\n help='max number of tokens in the target sequence')\n parser.add_argument('--upsample-primary', default=1, type=int,\n help='amount to upsample primary dataset')\n parser.add_argument('--truncate-source', default=False, action='store_true',\n help='boolean to truncate source to max-source-positions')\n # fmt: on\n\n def __init__(self, args, src_dict, tgt_dict):\n super().__init__(args)\n self.src_dict = src_dict\n self.tgt_dict = tgt_dict\n\n @classmethod\n def setup_task(cls, args, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Setup the task (e.g., load dictionaries).\n\n Args:\n args (argparse.Namespace): parsed command-line arguments\n \"\"\"\n args.left_pad_source = options.eval_bool(args.left_pad_source)\n args.left_pad_target = options.eval_bool(args.left_pad_target)\n if getattr(args, \"raw_text\", False):\n utils.deprecation_warning(\n \"--raw-text is deprecated, please use --dataset-impl=raw\"\n )\n args.dataset_impl = \"raw\"\n elif getattr(args, \"lazy_load\", False):\n utils.deprecation_warning(\n \"--lazy-load is deprecated, please use --dataset-impl=lazy\"\n )\n args.dataset_impl = \"lazy\"\n\n paths = args.data.split(\":\")\n assert len(paths) > 0\n # find language pair automatically\n if args.source_lang is None or args.target_lang is None:\n args.source_lang, args.target_lang = data_utils.infer_language_pair(\n paths[0]\n )\n if args.source_lang is None or args.target_lang is None:\n raise Exception(\n \"Could not infer language pair, please provide it explicitly\"\n )\n\n # load dictionaries\n src_dict = cls.load_dictionary(\n os.path.join(paths[0], \"dict.{}.txt\".format(args.source_lang))\n )\n tgt_dict = cls.load_dictionary(\n os.path.join(paths[0], \"dict.{}.txt\".format(args.target_lang))\n )\n assert src_dict.pad() == tgt_dict.pad()\n assert src_dict.eos() == tgt_dict.eos()\n assert src_dict.unk() == tgt_dict.unk()\n print(\"| [{}] dictionary: {} types\".format(args.source_lang, len(src_dict)))\n print(\"| [{}] dictionary: {} types\".format(args.target_lang, len(tgt_dict)))\n\n return cls(args, src_dict, tgt_dict)\n\n def load_dataset(self, split, epoch=0, combine=False, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Load a given dataset split.\n\n Args:\n split (str): name of the split (e.g., train, valid, test)\n \"\"\"\n paths = self.args.data.split(\":\")\n assert len(paths) > 0\n data_path = paths[epoch % len(paths)]\n\n # infer langcode\n src, tgt = self.args.source_lang, self.args.target_lang\n\n self.datasets[split] = load_langpair_dataset(\n data_path,\n split,\n src,\n self.src_dict,\n tgt,\n self.tgt_dict,\n combine=combine,\n dataset_impl=self.args.dataset_impl,\n upsample_primary=self.args.upsample_primary,\n left_pad_source=self.args.left_pad_source,\n left_pad_target=self.args.left_pad_target,\n max_source_positions=self.args.max_source_positions,\n max_target_positions=self.args.max_target_positions,\n load_alignments=self.args.load_alignments,\n truncate_source=self.args.truncate_source,\n )\n\n def build_dataset_for_inference(self, src_tokens, src_lengths):\n return LanguagePairDataset(src_tokens, src_lengths, self.source_dictionary)\n\n def max_positions(self):\n \"\"\"Return the max sentence length allowed by the task.\"\"\"\n return (self.args.max_source_positions, self.args.max_target_positions)\n\n @property\n def source_dictionary(self):\n \"\"\"Return the source :class:`~fairseq.data.Dictionary`.\"\"\"\n return self.src_dict\n\n @property\n def target_dictionary(self):\n \"\"\"Return the target :class:`~fairseq.data.Dictionary`.\"\"\"\n return self.tgt_dict\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/tasks/translation_from_pretrained_xlm.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom fairseq.data.legacy.masked_lm_dictionary import MaskedLMDictionary\nfrom fairseq.tasks.translation import TranslationTask\n\nfrom . import register_task\n\n\n@register_task(\"translation_from_pretrained_xlm\")\nclass TranslationFromPretrainedXLMTask(TranslationTask):\n \"\"\"\n Same as TranslationTask except use the MaskedLMDictionary class so that\n we can load data that was binarized with the MaskedLMDictionary class.\n\n This task should be used for the entire training pipeline when we want to\n train an NMT model from a pretrained XLM checkpoint: binarizing NMT data,\n training NMT with the pretrained XLM checkpoint, and subsequent evaluation\n of that trained model.\n \"\"\"\n\n @classmethod\n def load_dictionary(cls, filename):\n \"\"\"Load the masked LM dictionary from the filename\n\n Args:\n filename (str): the filename\n \"\"\"\n return MaskedLMDictionary.load(filename)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/tasks/translation_lev.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\n\nfrom fairseq.utils import new_arange\nfrom fairseq.tasks import register_task\nfrom fairseq.tasks.translation import TranslationTask, load_langpair_dataset\n\n\n@register_task('translation_lev')\nclass TranslationLevenshteinTask(TranslationTask):\n \"\"\"\n Translation (Sequence Generation) task for Levenshtein Transformer\n See `\"Levenshtein Transformer\" <https://arxiv.org/abs/1905.11006>`_.\n \"\"\"\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add task-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n # fmt: off\n TranslationTask.add_args(parser)\n parser.add_argument(\n '--noise',\n default='random_delete',\n choices=['random_delete', 'random_mask', 'no_noise', 'full_mask'])\n\n def load_dataset(self, split, epoch=0, combine=False, **kwargs):\n \"\"\"Load a given dataset split.\n\n Args:\n split (str): name of the split (e.g., train, valid, test)\n \"\"\"\n paths = self.args.data.split(':')\n assert len(paths) > 0\n data_path = paths[epoch % len(paths)]\n\n # infer langcode\n src, tgt = self.args.source_lang, self.args.target_lang\n\n self.datasets[split] = load_langpair_dataset(\n data_path, split, src, self.src_dict, tgt, self.tgt_dict,\n combine=combine, dataset_impl=self.args.dataset_impl,\n upsample_primary=self.args.upsample_primary,\n left_pad_source=self.args.left_pad_source,\n left_pad_target=self.args.left_pad_target,\n max_source_positions=self.args.max_source_positions,\n max_target_positions=self.args.max_target_positions,\n prepend_bos=True,\n )\n\n def inject_noise(self, target_tokens):\n def _random_delete(target_tokens):\n pad = self.tgt_dict.pad()\n bos = self.tgt_dict.bos()\n eos = self.tgt_dict.eos()\n\n max_len = target_tokens.size(1)\n target_mask = target_tokens.eq(pad)\n target_score = target_tokens.clone().float().uniform_()\n target_score.masked_fill_(\n target_tokens.eq(bos) | target_tokens.eq(eos), 0.0)\n target_score.masked_fill_(target_mask, 1)\n target_score, target_rank = target_score.sort(1)\n target_length = target_mask.size(1) - target_mask.float().sum(\n 1, keepdim=True)\n\n # do not delete <bos> and <eos> (we assign 0 score for them)\n target_cutoff = 2 + ((target_length - 2) * target_score.new_zeros(\n target_score.size(0), 1).uniform_()).long()\n target_cutoff = target_score.sort(1)[1] >= target_cutoff\n\n prev_target_tokens = target_tokens.gather(\n 1, target_rank).masked_fill_(target_cutoff, pad).gather(\n 1,\n target_rank.masked_fill_(target_cutoff,\n max_len).sort(1)[1])\n prev_target_tokens = prev_target_tokens[:, :prev_target_tokens.\n ne(pad).sum(1).max()]\n\n return prev_target_tokens\n\n def _random_mask(target_tokens):\n pad = self.tgt_dict.pad()\n bos = self.tgt_dict.bos()\n eos = self.tgt_dict.eos()\n unk = self.tgt_dict.unk()\n\n target_masks = target_tokens.ne(pad) & \\\n target_tokens.ne(bos) & \\\n target_tokens.ne(eos)\n target_score = target_tokens.clone().float().uniform_()\n target_score.masked_fill_(~target_masks, 2.0)\n target_length = target_masks.sum(1).float()\n target_length = target_length * target_length.clone().uniform_()\n target_length = target_length + 1 # make sure to mask at least one token.\n\n _, target_rank = target_score.sort(1)\n target_cutoff = new_arange(target_rank) < target_length[:, None].long()\n prev_target_tokens = target_tokens.masked_fill(\n target_cutoff.scatter(1, target_rank, target_cutoff), unk)\n return prev_target_tokens\n\n def _full_mask(target_tokens):\n pad = self.tgt_dict.pad()\n bos = self.tgt_dict.bos()\n eos = self.tgt_dict.eos()\n unk = self.tgt_dict.unk()\n\n target_mask = target_tokens.eq(bos) | target_tokens.eq(\n eos) | target_tokens.eq(pad)\n return target_tokens.masked_fill(~target_mask, unk)\n\n if self.args.noise == 'random_delete':\n return _random_delete(target_tokens)\n elif self.args.noise == 'random_mask':\n return _random_mask(target_tokens)\n elif self.args.noise == 'full_mask':\n return _full_mask(target_tokens)\n elif self.args.noise == 'no_noise':\n return target_tokens\n else:\n raise NotImplementedError\n\n def build_generator(self, args):\n from fairseq.iterative_refinement_generator import IterativeRefinementGenerator\n return IterativeRefinementGenerator(\n self.target_dictionary,\n eos_penalty=getattr(args, 'iter_decode_eos_penalty', 0.0),\n max_iter=getattr(args, 'iter_decode_max_iter', 10),\n decoding_format=getattr(args, 'decoding_format', None),\n adaptive=not getattr(args, 'iter_decode_force_max_iter', False),\n retain_history=getattr(args, 'retain_iter_history', False))\n\n def train_step(self,\n sample,\n model,\n criterion,\n optimizer,\n ignore_grad=False):\n model.train()\n sample['prev_target'] = self.inject_noise(sample['target'])\n loss, sample_size, logging_output = criterion(model, sample)\n if ignore_grad:\n loss *= 0\n optimizer.backward(loss)\n return loss, sample_size, logging_output\n\n def valid_step(self, sample, model, criterion):\n model.eval()\n with torch.no_grad():\n sample['prev_target'] = self.inject_noise(sample['target'])\n loss, sample_size, logging_output = criterion(model, sample)\n return loss, sample_size, logging_output\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/tasks/translation_moe.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\n\nfrom fairseq import modules, utils\nfrom fairseq.tasks import register_task\nfrom fairseq.tasks.translation import TranslationTask\n\n\n@register_task(\"translation_moe\")\nclass TranslationMoETask(TranslationTask):\n \"\"\"\n Translation task for Mixture of Experts (MoE) models.\n\n See `\"Mixture Models for Diverse Machine Translation: Tricks of the Trade\"\n (Shen et al., 2019) <https://arxiv.org/abs/1902.07816>`_.\n\n Args:\n src_dict (~fairseq.data.Dictionary): dictionary for the source language\n tgt_dict (~fairseq.data.Dictionary): dictionary for the target language\n\n .. note::\n\n The translation task is compatible with :mod:`fairseq-train`,\n :mod:`fairseq-generate` and :mod:`fairseq-interactive`.\n\n The translation task provides the following additional command-line\n arguments:\n\n .. argparse::\n :ref: fairseq.tasks.translation_parser\n :prog:\n \"\"\"\n\n @staticmethod\n def add_args(parser):\n \"\"\"Add task-specific arguments to the parser.\"\"\"\n # fmt: off\n TranslationTask.add_args(parser)\n parser.add_argument('--method', default='hMoEup',\n choices=['sMoElp', 'sMoEup', 'hMoElp', 'hMoEup'])\n parser.add_argument('--num-experts', default=3, type=int, metavar='N',\n help='number of experts')\n parser.add_argument('--mean-pool-gating-network', action='store_true',\n help='use a simple mean-pooling gating network')\n parser.add_argument('--mean-pool-gating-network-dropout', type=float,\n help='dropout for mean-pooling gating network')\n parser.add_argument('--mean-pool-gating-network-encoder-dim', type=float,\n help='encoder output dim for mean-pooling gating network')\n parser.add_argument('--gen-expert', type=int, default=0,\n help='which expert to use for generation')\n # fmt: on\n\n def __init__(self, args, src_dict, tgt_dict):\n if args.method == \"sMoElp\":\n # soft MoE with learned prior\n self.uniform_prior = False\n self.hard_selection = False\n elif args.method == \"sMoEup\":\n # soft MoE with uniform prior\n self.uniform_prior = True\n self.hard_selection = False\n elif args.method == \"hMoElp\":\n # hard MoE with learned prior\n self.uniform_prior = False\n self.hard_selection = True\n elif args.method == \"hMoEup\":\n # hard MoE with uniform prior\n self.uniform_prior = True\n self.hard_selection = True\n\n # add indicator tokens for each expert\n for i in range(args.num_experts):\n # add to both dictionaries in case we're sharing embeddings\n src_dict.add_symbol(\"<expert_{}>\".format(i))\n tgt_dict.add_symbol(\"<expert_{}>\".format(i))\n\n super().__init__(args, src_dict, tgt_dict)\n\n def build_model(self, args):\n from fairseq import models\n\n model = models.build_model(args, self)\n if not self.uniform_prior and not hasattr(model, \"gating_network\"):\n if self.args.mean_pool_gating_network:\n if getattr(args, \"mean_pool_gating_network_encoder_dim\", None):\n encoder_dim = args.mean_pool_gating_network_encoder_dim\n elif getattr(args, \"encoder_embed_dim\", None):\n # assume that encoder_embed_dim is the encoder's output dimension\n encoder_dim = args.encoder_embed_dim\n else:\n raise ValueError(\n \"Must specify --mean-pool-gating-network-encoder-dim\"\n )\n\n if getattr(args, \"mean_pool_gating_network_dropout\", None):\n dropout = args.mean_pool_gating_network_dropout\n elif getattr(args, \"dropout\", None):\n dropout = args.dropout\n else:\n raise ValueError(\"Must specify --mean-pool-gating-network-dropout\")\n\n model.gating_network = modules.MeanPoolGatingNetwork(\n encoder_dim, args.num_experts, dropout,\n )\n else:\n raise ValueError(\n \"translation_moe task with learned prior requires the model to \"\n \"have a gating network; try using --mean-pool-gating-network\"\n )\n return model\n\n def expert_index(self, i):\n return i + self.tgt_dict.index(\"<expert_0>\")\n\n def _get_loss(self, sample, model, criterion):\n assert hasattr(\n criterion, \"compute_loss\"\n ), \"translation_moe task requires the criterion to implement the compute_loss() method\"\n\n k = self.args.num_experts\n bsz = sample[\"target\"].size(0)\n\n def get_lprob_y(encoder_out, prev_output_tokens_k):\n net_output = model.decoder(prev_output_tokens_k, encoder_out)\n loss, _ = criterion.compute_loss(model, net_output, sample, reduce=False)\n loss = loss.view(bsz, -1)\n return -loss.sum(dim=1, keepdim=True) # -> B x 1\n\n def get_lprob_yz(winners=None):\n encoder_out = model.encoder(\n sample[\"net_input\"][\"src_tokens\"], sample[\"net_input\"][\"src_lengths\"]\n )\n\n if winners is None:\n lprob_y = []\n for i in range(k):\n prev_output_tokens_k = sample[\"net_input\"][\n \"prev_output_tokens\"\n ].clone()\n assert not prev_output_tokens_k.requires_grad\n prev_output_tokens_k[:, 0] = self.expert_index(i)\n lprob_y.append(get_lprob_y(encoder_out, prev_output_tokens_k))\n lprob_y = torch.cat(lprob_y, dim=1) # -> B x K\n else:\n prev_output_tokens_k = sample[\"net_input\"][\"prev_output_tokens\"].clone()\n prev_output_tokens_k[:, 0] = self.expert_index(winners)\n lprob_y = get_lprob_y(encoder_out, prev_output_tokens_k) # -> B\n\n if self.uniform_prior:\n lprob_yz = lprob_y\n else:\n lprob_z = model.gating_network(encoder_out) # B x K\n if winners is not None:\n lprob_z = lprob_z.gather(dim=1, index=winners.unsqueeze(-1))\n lprob_yz = lprob_y + lprob_z.type_as(lprob_y) # B x K\n\n return lprob_yz\n\n # compute responsibilities without dropout\n with utils.eval(model): # disable dropout\n with torch.no_grad(): # disable autograd\n lprob_yz = get_lprob_yz() # B x K\n prob_z_xy = torch.nn.functional.softmax(lprob_yz, dim=1)\n assert not prob_z_xy.requires_grad\n\n # compute loss with dropout\n if self.hard_selection:\n winners = prob_z_xy.max(dim=1)[1]\n loss = -get_lprob_yz(winners)\n else:\n lprob_yz = get_lprob_yz() # B x K\n loss = -modules.LogSumExpMoE.apply(lprob_yz, prob_z_xy, 1)\n\n loss = loss.sum()\n sample_size = (\n sample[\"target\"].size(0) if self.args.sentence_avg else sample[\"ntokens\"]\n )\n logging_output = {\n \"loss\": utils.item(loss.data),\n \"ntokens\": sample[\"ntokens\"],\n \"sample_size\": sample_size,\n \"posterior\": prob_z_xy.float().sum(dim=0).cpu(),\n }\n return loss, sample_size, logging_output\n\n def train_step(self, sample, model, criterion, optimizer, ignore_grad=False):\n model.train()\n loss, sample_size, logging_output = self._get_loss(sample, model, criterion)\n if ignore_grad:\n loss *= 0\n optimizer.backward(loss)\n return loss, sample_size, logging_output\n\n def valid_step(self, sample, model, criterion):\n model.eval()\n with torch.no_grad():\n loss, sample_size, logging_output = self._get_loss(sample, model, criterion)\n return loss, sample_size, logging_output\n\n def inference_step(\n self, generator, models, sample, prefix_tokens=None, expert=None\n ):\n expert = expert or self.args.gen_expert\n with torch.no_grad():\n return generator.generate(\n models,\n sample,\n prefix_tokens=prefix_tokens,\n bos_token=self.expert_index(expert),\n )\n\n def aggregate_logging_outputs(self, logging_outputs, criterion):\n agg_logging_outputs = criterion.__class__.aggregate_logging_outputs(\n logging_outputs\n )\n agg_logging_outputs[\"posterior\"] = sum(\n log[\"posterior\"] for log in logging_outputs if \"posterior\" in log\n )\n return agg_logging_outputs\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/tokenizer.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport re\n\nSPACE_NORMALIZER = re.compile(r\"\\s+\")\n\n\ndef tokenize_line(line):\n line = SPACE_NORMALIZER.sub(\" \", line)\n line = line.strip()\n return line.split()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/trainer.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\n\"\"\"\nTrain a network across multiple GPUs.\n\"\"\"\n\nimport contextlib\nimport math\nimport os\nimport sys\nfrom collections import OrderedDict\nfrom itertools import chain\n\nimport torch\nfrom fairseq import checkpoint_utils, distributed_utils, models, optim, utils\nfrom fairseq.meters import AverageMeter, StopwatchMeter, TimeMeter\nfrom fairseq.optim import lr_scheduler\n\n\nclass Trainer(object):\n \"\"\"Main class for data parallel training.\n\n This class supports synchronous distributed data parallel training,\n where multiple workers each have a full model replica and gradients\n are accumulated across workers before each update. We use\n :class:`~torch.nn.parallel.DistributedDataParallel` to handle\n communication of the gradients across workers.\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, args, task, model, criterion, dummy_batch=None, oom_batch=None):\n self.args = args\n self.task = task\n\n # copy model and criterion to current device\n self._criterion = criterion\n self._model = model\n self.cuda = torch.cuda.is_available() and not args.cpu\n if args.fp16:\n self._criterion = self._criterion.half()\n self._model = self._model.half()\n if self.cuda:\n self._criterion = self._criterion.cuda()\n self._model = self._model.cuda()\n\n self._dummy_batch = dummy_batch\n self._oom_batch = oom_batch or dummy_batch\n\n self._lr_scheduler = None\n self._num_updates = 0\n self._optim_history = None\n self._optimizer = None\n self._prev_grad_norm = None\n self._wrapped_criterion = None\n self._wrapped_model = None\n\n # Fast stats sync avoids memcpy and is 7% faster when tested on 16 nodes.\n # It is less flexible and syncs only the default stats.\n self._all_reduce_list = [0.0] * 6\n self.fast_stat_sync = args.fast_stat_sync\n\n self.init_meters(args)\n\n def init_meters(self, args):\n self.meters = OrderedDict()\n self.meters[\"train_loss\"] = AverageMeter()\n self.meters[\"train_nll_loss\"] = AverageMeter()\n self.meters[\"valid_loss\"] = AverageMeter()\n self.meters[\"valid_nll_loss\"] = AverageMeter()\n self.meters[\"wps\"] = TimeMeter() # words per second\n self.meters[\"ups\"] = TimeMeter() # updates per second\n self.meters[\"wpb\"] = AverageMeter() # words per batch\n self.meters[\"bsz\"] = AverageMeter() # sentences per batch\n self.meters[\"gnorm\"] = AverageMeter() # gradient norm\n self.meters[\"clip\"] = AverageMeter() # % of updates clipped\n self.meters[\"oom\"] = AverageMeter() # out of memory\n if args.fp16:\n self.meters[\"loss_scale\"] = AverageMeter() # dynamic loss scale\n self.meters[\"wall\"] = TimeMeter() # wall time in seconds\n self.meters[\"train_wall\"] = StopwatchMeter() # train wall time in seconds\n\n @property\n def criterion(self):\n if self._wrapped_criterion is None:\n if (\n utils.has_parameters(self._criterion)\n and self.args.distributed_world_size > 1\n and not self.args.use_bmuf\n ):\n self._wrapped_criterion = models.DistributedFairseqModel(\n self.args, self._criterion\n )\n else:\n self._wrapped_criterion = self._criterion\n return self._wrapped_criterion\n\n @property\n def model(self):\n if self._wrapped_model is None:\n if self.args.distributed_world_size > 1 and not self.args.use_bmuf:\n self._wrapped_model = models.DistributedFairseqModel(\n self.args, self._model\n )\n else:\n self._wrapped_model = self._model\n return self._wrapped_model\n\n @property\n def optimizer(self):\n if self._optimizer is None:\n self._build_optimizer()\n return self._optimizer\n\n @property\n def lr_scheduler(self):\n if self._lr_scheduler is None:\n self._build_optimizer() # this will initialize self._lr_scheduler\n return self._lr_scheduler\n\n def _build_optimizer(self):\n params = list(\n filter(\n lambda p: p.requires_grad,\n chain(self.model.parameters(), self.criterion.parameters()),\n )\n )\n\n if self.args.fp16:\n if self.cuda and torch.cuda.get_device_capability(0)[0] < 7:\n print(\n \"| WARNING: your device does NOT support faster training with --fp16, \"\n \"please switch to FP32 which is likely to be faster\"\n )\n if self.args.memory_efficient_fp16:\n self._optimizer = optim.MemoryEfficientFP16Optimizer.build_optimizer(\n self.args, params\n )\n else:\n self._optimizer = optim.FP16Optimizer.build_optimizer(self.args, params)\n else:\n if self.cuda and torch.cuda.get_device_capability(0)[0] >= 7:\n print(\"| NOTICE: your device may support faster training with --fp16\")\n self._optimizer = optim.build_optimizer(self.args, params)\n\n if self.args.use_bmuf:\n self._optimizer = optim.FairseqBMUF(self.args, self._optimizer)\n\n # We should initialize the learning rate scheduler immediately after\n # building the optimizer, so that the initial learning rate is set.\n self._lr_scheduler = lr_scheduler.build_lr_scheduler(self.args, self.optimizer)\n self._lr_scheduler.step_update(0)\n\n def save_checkpoint(self, filename, extra_state):\n \"\"\"Save all training state in a checkpoint file.\"\"\"\n if distributed_utils.is_master(self.args): # only save one checkpoint\n extra_state[\"train_meters\"] = self.meters\n checkpoint_utils.save_state(\n filename,\n self.args,\n self.get_model().state_dict(),\n self.get_criterion(),\n self.optimizer,\n self.lr_scheduler,\n self.get_num_updates(),\n self._optim_history,\n extra_state,\n )\n\n def load_checkpoint(\n self,\n filename,\n reset_optimizer=False,\n reset_lr_scheduler=False,\n optimizer_overrides=None,\n reset_meters=False,\n ):\n \"\"\"Load all training state from a checkpoint file.\"\"\"\n extra_state, self._optim_history, last_optim_state = None, [], None\n\n try:\n from fairseq.fb_pathmgr import fb_pathmgr\n\n bexists = fb_pathmgr.isfile(filename)\n except (ModuleNotFoundError, ImportError):\n bexists = os.path.exists(filename)\n\n if bexists:\n state = checkpoint_utils.load_checkpoint_to_cpu(filename)\n\n # load model parameters\n try:\n self.get_model().load_state_dict(\n state[\"model\"], strict=True, args=self.args\n )\n if utils.has_parameters(self.get_criterion()):\n self.get_criterion().load_state_dict(\n state[\"criterion\"], strict=True\n )\n except Exception:\n raise Exception(\n \"Cannot load model parameters from checkpoint {}; \"\n \"please ensure that the architectures match.\".format(filename)\n )\n\n extra_state = state[\"extra_state\"]\n self._optim_history = state[\"optimizer_history\"]\n last_optim_state = state.get(\"last_optimizer_state\", None)\n\n if last_optim_state is not None and not reset_optimizer:\n # rebuild optimizer after loading model, since params may have changed\n self._build_optimizer()\n\n # only reload optimizer and lr_scheduler if they match\n last_optim = self._optim_history[-1]\n assert (\n last_optim[\"criterion_name\"] == self.get_criterion().__class__.__name__\n ), \"Criterion does not match; please reset the optimizer (--reset-optimizer).\"\n assert (\n last_optim[\"optimizer_name\"] == self.optimizer.__class__.__name__\n ), \"Optimizer does not match; please reset the optimizer (--reset-optimizer).\"\n\n if not reset_lr_scheduler:\n self.lr_scheduler.load_state_dict(last_optim[\"lr_scheduler_state\"])\n self.optimizer.load_state_dict(last_optim_state, optimizer_overrides)\n\n self.set_num_updates(last_optim[\"num_updates\"])\n\n if extra_state is not None:\n epoch = extra_state[\"train_iterator\"][\"epoch\"]\n print(\n \"| loaded checkpoint {} (epoch {} @ {} updates)\".format(\n filename, epoch, self.get_num_updates()\n )\n )\n\n self.lr_step(epoch)\n\n if \"train_meters\" in extra_state and not reset_meters:\n self.meters.update(extra_state[\"train_meters\"])\n del extra_state[\"train_meters\"]\n\n # reset TimeMeters, since their start times don't make sense anymore\n for meter in self.meters.values():\n if isinstance(meter, TimeMeter):\n meter.reset()\n else:\n print(\"| no existing checkpoint found {}\".format(filename))\n\n return extra_state\n\n def get_train_iterator(\n self,\n epoch,\n combine=True,\n load_dataset=True,\n data_selector=None,\n shard_batch_itr=True,\n ):\n \"\"\"Return an EpochBatchIterator over the training set for a given epoch.\"\"\"\n if load_dataset:\n print(\"| loading train data for epoch {}\".format(epoch))\n self.task.load_dataset(\n self.args.train_subset,\n epoch=epoch,\n combine=combine,\n data_selector=data_selector,\n )\n return self.task.get_batch_iterator(\n dataset=self.task.dataset(self.args.train_subset),\n max_tokens=self.args.max_tokens,\n max_sentences=self.args.max_sentences,\n max_positions=utils.resolve_max_positions(\n self.task.max_positions(), self.model.max_positions()\n ),\n ignore_invalid_inputs=True,\n required_batch_size_multiple=self.args.required_batch_size_multiple,\n seed=self.args.seed,\n num_shards=self.args.distributed_world_size if shard_batch_itr else 1,\n shard_id=self.args.distributed_rank if shard_batch_itr else 0,\n num_workers=self.args.num_workers,\n epoch=epoch,\n )\n\n def train_step(self, samples, dummy_batch=False, raise_oom=False):\n \"\"\"Do forward, backward and parameter update.\"\"\"\n if self._dummy_batch is None:\n self._dummy_batch = samples[0]\n\n self._set_seed()\n self.model.train()\n self.criterion.train()\n self.zero_grad()\n\n if not dummy_batch:\n self.meters[\"train_wall\"].start()\n\n # forward and backward pass\n logging_outputs, sample_sizes, ooms = [], [], 0\n for i, sample in enumerate(samples):\n sample = self._prepare_sample(sample)\n if sample is None:\n # when sample is None, run forward/backward on a dummy batch\n # and ignore the resulting gradients\n sample = self._prepare_sample(self._dummy_batch)\n ignore_grad = True\n else:\n ignore_grad = False\n\n def maybe_no_sync():\n \"\"\"\n Whenever *samples* contains more than one mini-batch, we\n want to accumulate gradients locally and only call\n all-reduce in the last backwards pass.\n \"\"\"\n if (\n self.args.distributed_world_size > 1\n and hasattr(self.model, \"no_sync\")\n and i < len(samples) - 1\n ):\n return self.model.no_sync()\n else:\n return contextlib.ExitStack() # dummy contextmanager\n\n try:\n with maybe_no_sync():\n # forward and backward\n loss, sample_size, logging_output = self.task.train_step(\n sample, self.model, self.criterion, self.optimizer, ignore_grad\n )\n\n if not ignore_grad:\n logging_outputs.append(logging_output)\n sample_sizes.append(sample_size)\n\n if self.fast_stat_sync:\n self._all_reduce_list[0] += sample_size\n self._all_reduce_list[1] += logging_output.get(\n \"nsentences\", 0.0\n )\n self._all_reduce_list[2] += logging_output.get(\"loss\", 0.0)\n self._all_reduce_list[3] += logging_output.get(\"nll_loss\", 0.0)\n self._all_reduce_list[4] += logging_output.get(\"ntokens\", 0.0)\n except RuntimeError as e:\n if \"out of memory\" in str(e):\n self._log_oom(e)\n if raise_oom:\n raise e\n print(\n \"| WARNING: attempting to recover from OOM in forward/backward pass\",\n file=sys.stderr,\n )\n ooms += 1\n self.zero_grad()\n else:\n raise e\n\n if self.fast_stat_sync:\n self._all_reduce_list[5] += ooms\n\n if ooms > 0 and self._oom_batch is not None:\n self.handle_ooms(ooms)\n\n if dummy_batch:\n return None\n\n # gather logging outputs from all replicas\n if self.fast_stat_sync:\n # rework all_gather_list\n all_reduce_list_tensor = torch.cuda.DoubleTensor(self._all_reduce_list)\n if self._sync_stats():\n torch.distributed.all_reduce(all_reduce_list_tensor)\n # Normalize loss and nll_loss by \"sample_size\"\n # and convert to log base 2\n all_reduce_list_tensor[2:4].div_(\n (all_reduce_list_tensor[0:1] * torch.log(torch.cuda.DoubleTensor([2])))\n )\n self._all_reduce_list = all_reduce_list_tensor.tolist()\n logging_output = {}\n [\n sample_size,\n logging_output[\"nsentences\"],\n logging_output[\"loss\"],\n logging_output[\"nll_loss\"],\n logging_output[\"ntokens\"],\n ooms,\n ] = self._all_reduce_list\n elif self._sync_stats():\n logging_outputs, sample_sizes, ooms, prev_norms = zip(\n *distributed_utils.all_gather_list(\n [logging_outputs, sample_sizes, ooms, self._prev_grad_norm]\n )\n )\n logging_outputs = list(chain.from_iterable(logging_outputs))\n sample_sizes = list(chain.from_iterable(sample_sizes))\n ooms = sum(ooms)\n\n if not self.args.use_bmuf:\n assert all(norm == prev_norms[0] for norm in prev_norms) or all(\n math.isnan(norm) or math.isinf(norm) for norm in prev_norms\n ), \"Fatal error: gradients are inconsistent between workers\"\n\n self.meters[\"oom\"].update(ooms, len(samples))\n if ooms == self.args.distributed_world_size * len(samples):\n print(\"| WARNING: OOM in all workers, skipping update\")\n self.zero_grad()\n return None\n\n if not self.fast_stat_sync:\n # aggregate logging outputs and sample sizes\n logging_output = self.task.aggregate_logging_outputs(\n logging_outputs, self.get_criterion()\n )\n sample_size = self.task.grad_denom(sample_sizes, self.get_criterion())\n\n if not all(k in logging_output for k in [\"ntokens\", \"nsentences\"]):\n raise Exception(\n (\n \"Please update the {}.aggregate_logging_outputs() method to \"\n \"return ntokens and nsentences\"\n ).format(self.task.__class__.__name__)\n )\n\n try:\n # normalize grads by sample size\n if sample_size > 0:\n self.optimizer.multiply_grads(\n self.args.distributed_world_size / float(sample_size)\n )\n\n # clip grads\n grad_norm = self.optimizer.clip_grad_norm(self.args.clip_norm)\n self._prev_grad_norm = grad_norm\n\n # take an optimization step\n self.optimizer.step()\n self.set_num_updates(self.get_num_updates() + 1)\n\n # task specific update per step\n self.task.update_step(self._num_updates)\n\n # update meters\n ntokens = logging_output.get(\"ntokens\", 0)\n nsentences = logging_output.get(\"nsentences\", 0)\n self.meters[\"wps\"].update(ntokens)\n self.meters[\"ups\"].update(1.0)\n self.meters[\"wpb\"].update(ntokens)\n self.meters[\"bsz\"].update(nsentences)\n self.meters[\"gnorm\"].update(grad_norm)\n self.meters[\"clip\"].update(\n 1.0\n if grad_norm > self.args.clip_norm and self.args.clip_norm > 0\n else 0.0\n )\n self.meters[\"train_loss\"].update(logging_output.get(\"loss\", 0), sample_size)\n if \"train_acc\" in self.meters:\n self.meters[\"train_acc\"].update(\n logging_output.get(\"acc\", 0), sample_size\n )\n\n if \"nll_loss\" in logging_output:\n self.meters[\"train_nll_loss\"].update(\n logging_output.get(\"nll_loss\", 0), ntokens\n )\n\n # clear CUDA cache to reduce memory fragmentation\n if (\n self.args.empty_cache_freq > 0\n and (\n (self.get_num_updates() + self.args.empty_cache_freq - 1)\n % self.args.empty_cache_freq\n )\n == 0\n and torch.cuda.is_available()\n and not self.args.cpu\n ):\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n except OverflowError as e:\n print(\"| WARNING: overflow detected, \" + str(e))\n self.zero_grad()\n logging_output = None\n except RuntimeError as e:\n if \"out of memory\" in str(e):\n self._log_oom(e)\n print(\"| ERROR: OOM during optimization, irrecoverable\")\n raise e\n\n if self.args.fp16:\n self.meters[\"loss_scale\"].reset()\n self.meters[\"loss_scale\"].update(self.optimizer.scaler.loss_scale)\n\n self.clear_buffered_stats()\n self.meters[\"train_wall\"].stop()\n\n return logging_output\n\n def valid_step(self, sample, raise_oom=False):\n \"\"\"Do forward pass in evaluation mode.\"\"\"\n with torch.no_grad():\n self.model.eval()\n self.criterion.eval()\n\n sample = self._prepare_sample(sample)\n if sample is None:\n sample = self._prepare_sample(self._dummy_batch)\n ignore_results = True\n else:\n ignore_results = False\n\n try:\n _loss, sample_size, logging_output = self.task.valid_step(\n sample, self.model, self.criterion\n )\n except RuntimeError as e:\n if \"out of memory\" in str(e):\n self._log_oom(e)\n if not raise_oom:\n print(\n \"| WARNING: ran out of memory in validation step, retrying batch\"\n )\n for p in self.model.parameters():\n if p.grad is not None:\n p.grad = None # free some memory\n if self.cuda:\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n return self.valid_step(sample, raise_oom=True)\n raise e\n\n if ignore_results:\n logging_output, sample_size = {}, 0\n\n # gather logging outputs from all replicas\n if self.args.distributed_world_size > 1:\n logging_output, sample_size = zip(\n *distributed_utils.all_gather_list([logging_output, sample_size])\n )\n logging_output = list(logging_output)\n sample_size = list(sample_size)\n else:\n logging_output = [logging_output]\n sample_size = [sample_size]\n\n # aggregate logging outputs and sample sizes\n logging_output = self.task.aggregate_logging_outputs(\n logging_output, self.get_criterion()\n )\n sample_size = self.task.grad_denom(sample_size, self.get_criterion())\n\n # update meters for validation\n ntokens = logging_output.get(\"ntokens\", 0)\n self.meters[\"valid_loss\"].update(logging_output.get(\"loss\", 0), sample_size)\n if \"valid_acc\" in self.meters:\n self.meters[\"valid_acc\"].update(logging_output.get(\"acc\", 0), sample_size)\n\n if \"nll_loss\" in logging_output:\n self.meters[\"valid_nll_loss\"].update(\n logging_output.get(\"nll_loss\", 0), ntokens\n )\n\n return logging_output\n\n def dummy_train_step(self, dummy_batch):\n \"\"\"Dummy training step for warming caching allocator.\"\"\"\n self.train_step(dummy_batch, dummy_batch=True)\n self.zero_grad()\n\n def handle_ooms(self, number_of_ooms):\n \"\"\"\n c10d accumulates/syncs gradients between gpus during backward pass.\n In case of OOMs, gpus may fail to sync, so we manually iterate\n extra to make sure each gpu makes same number of iterations.\n \"\"\"\n for _ in range(number_of_ooms):\n self.train_step([self._oom_batch], True)\n\n def zero_grad(self):\n self.optimizer.zero_grad()\n\n def clear_buffered_stats(self):\n self._all_reduce_list = [0.0] * 6\n\n def lr_step(self, epoch, val_loss=None):\n \"\"\"Adjust the learning rate based on the validation loss.\"\"\"\n self.lr_scheduler.step(epoch, val_loss)\n # prefer updating the LR based on the number of steps\n return self.lr_step_update()\n\n def lr_step_update(self):\n \"\"\"Update the learning rate after each update.\"\"\"\n return self.lr_scheduler.step_update(self.get_num_updates())\n\n def get_lr(self):\n \"\"\"Get the current learning rate.\"\"\"\n return self.optimizer.get_lr()\n\n def get_model(self):\n \"\"\"Get the (non-wrapped) model instance.\"\"\"\n return self._model\n\n def get_criterion(self):\n \"\"\"Get the (non-wrapped) criterion instance.\"\"\"\n return self._criterion\n\n def get_meter(self, name):\n \"\"\"Get a specific meter by name.\"\"\"\n if name not in self.meters:\n return None\n return self.meters[name]\n\n def get_num_updates(self):\n \"\"\"Get the number of parameters updates.\"\"\"\n return self._num_updates\n\n def set_num_updates(self, num_updates):\n \"\"\"Set the number of parameters updates.\"\"\"\n self._num_updates = num_updates\n self.lr_step_update()\n\n def _prepare_sample(self, sample):\n if sample is None or len(sample) == 0:\n return None\n\n if self.cuda:\n sample = utils.move_to_cuda(sample)\n\n def apply_half(t):\n if t.dtype is torch.float32:\n return t.half()\n return t\n\n if self.args.fp16:\n sample = utils.apply_to_sample(apply_half, sample)\n\n return sample\n\n def _set_seed(self):\n # Set seed based on args.seed and the update number so that we get\n # reproducible results when resuming from checkpoints\n seed = self.args.seed + self.get_num_updates()\n torch.manual_seed(seed)\n if self.cuda:\n torch.cuda.manual_seed(seed)\n\n def _sync_stats(self):\n return self.args.distributed_world_size > 1 and (\n (not self.args.use_bmuf)\n or (\n self.args.use_bmuf\n and (self.get_num_updates() + 1) % self.args.global_sync_iter == 0\n )\n )\n\n def _log_oom(self, exc):\n msg = \"| OOM: Ran out of memory with exception: {}\".format(exc)\n # TODO: print should really go to logger, this print goes\n # to stderr, which is buffered, which in many cases is not\n # printed out if another exception happens.\n # NB(jerry): added a flush to mitigate this\n print(msg, file=sys.stderr)\n if torch.cuda.is_available() and hasattr(torch.cuda, \"memory_summary\"):\n for device_idx in range(torch.cuda.device_count()):\n print(torch.cuda.memory_summary(device=device_idx), file=sys.stderr)\n sys.stderr.flush()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq/utils.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom collections import defaultdict\nimport contextlib\nimport copy\nimport importlib.util\nimport math\nimport os\nimport sys\nfrom typing import Callable, List\nimport warnings\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom itertools import accumulate\nfrom fairseq.modules import gelu, gelu_accurate\n\n\ndef load_ensemble_for_inference(filenames, task, model_arg_overrides=None):\n from fairseq import checkpoint_utils\n\n deprecation_warning(\n \"utils.load_ensemble_for_inference is deprecated. \"\n \"Please use checkpoint_utils.load_model_ensemble instead.\"\n )\n return checkpoint_utils.load_model_ensemble(\n filenames, arg_overrides=model_arg_overrides, task=task,\n )\n\n\ndef apply_to_sample(f, sample):\n if len(sample) == 0:\n return {}\n\n def _apply(x):\n if torch.is_tensor(x):\n return f(x)\n elif isinstance(x, dict):\n return {key: _apply(value) for key, value in x.items()}\n elif isinstance(x, list):\n return [_apply(x) for x in x]\n else:\n return x\n\n return _apply(sample)\n\n\ndef move_to_cuda(sample):\n def _move_to_cuda(tensor):\n return tensor.cuda()\n\n return apply_to_sample(_move_to_cuda, sample)\n\n\nINCREMENTAL_STATE_INSTANCE_ID = defaultdict(lambda: 0)\n\n\ndef _get_full_incremental_state_key(module_instance, key):\n module_name = module_instance.__class__.__name__\n\n # assign a unique ID to each module instance, so that incremental state is\n # not shared across module instances\n if not hasattr(module_instance, \"_fairseq_instance_id\"):\n INCREMENTAL_STATE_INSTANCE_ID[module_name] += 1\n module_instance._fairseq_instance_id = INCREMENTAL_STATE_INSTANCE_ID[\n module_name\n ]\n\n return \"{}.{}.{}\".format(module_name, module_instance._fairseq_instance_id, key)\n\n\ndef get_incremental_state(module, incremental_state, key):\n \"\"\"Helper for getting incremental state for an nn.Module.\"\"\"\n full_key = _get_full_incremental_state_key(module, key)\n if incremental_state is None or full_key not in incremental_state:\n return None\n return incremental_state[full_key]\n\n\ndef set_incremental_state(module, incremental_state, key, value):\n \"\"\"Helper for setting incremental state for an nn.Module.\"\"\"\n if incremental_state is not None:\n full_key = _get_full_incremental_state_key(module, key)\n incremental_state[full_key] = value\n\n\ndef load_align_dict(replace_unk):\n if replace_unk is None:\n align_dict = None\n elif isinstance(replace_unk, str) and len(replace_unk) > 0:\n # Load alignment dictionary for unknown word replacement if it was passed as an argument.\n align_dict = {}\n with open(replace_unk, \"r\") as f:\n for line in f:\n cols = line.split()\n align_dict[cols[0]] = cols[1]\n else:\n # No alignment dictionary provided but we still want to perform unknown word replacement by copying the\n # original source word.\n align_dict = {}\n return align_dict\n\n\ndef print_embed_overlap(embed_dict, vocab_dict):\n embed_keys = set(embed_dict.keys())\n vocab_keys = set(vocab_dict.symbols)\n overlap = len(embed_keys & vocab_keys)\n print(\"| Found {}/{} types in embedding file.\".format(overlap, len(vocab_dict)))\n\n\ndef parse_embedding(embed_path):\n \"\"\"Parse embedding text file into a dictionary of word and embedding tensors.\n\n The first line can have vocabulary size and dimension. The following lines\n should contain word and embedding separated by spaces.\n\n Example:\n 2 5\n the -0.0230 -0.0264 0.0287 0.0171 0.1403\n at -0.0395 -0.1286 0.0275 0.0254 -0.0932\n \"\"\"\n embed_dict = {}\n with open(embed_path) as f_embed:\n next(f_embed) # skip header\n for line in f_embed:\n pieces = line.rstrip().split(\" \")\n embed_dict[pieces[0]] = torch.Tensor(\n [float(weight) for weight in pieces[1:]]\n )\n return embed_dict\n\n\ndef load_embedding(embed_dict, vocab, embedding):\n for idx in range(len(vocab)):\n token = vocab[idx]\n if token in embed_dict:\n embedding.weight.data[idx] = embed_dict[token]\n return embedding\n\n\ndef replace_unk(hypo_str, src_str, alignment, align_dict, unk):\n from fairseq import tokenizer\n\n # Tokens are strings here\n hypo_tokens = tokenizer.tokenize_line(hypo_str)\n # TODO: Very rare cases where the replacement is '<eos>' should be handled gracefully\n src_tokens = tokenizer.tokenize_line(src_str) + [\"<eos>\"]\n for i, ht in enumerate(hypo_tokens):\n if ht == unk:\n src_token = src_tokens[alignment[i]]\n # Either take the corresponding value in the aligned dictionary or just copy the original value.\n hypo_tokens[i] = align_dict.get(src_token, src_token)\n return \" \".join(hypo_tokens)\n\n\ndef post_process_prediction(\n hypo_tokens, src_str, alignment, align_dict, tgt_dict, remove_bpe=None\n):\n hypo_str = tgt_dict.string(hypo_tokens, remove_bpe)\n if align_dict is not None:\n hypo_str = replace_unk(\n hypo_str, src_str, alignment, align_dict, tgt_dict.unk_string()\n )\n if align_dict is not None or remove_bpe is not None:\n # Convert back to tokens for evaluating with unk replacement or without BPE\n # Note that the dictionary can be modified inside the method.\n hypo_tokens = tgt_dict.encode_line(hypo_str, add_if_not_exist=True)\n return hypo_tokens, hypo_str, alignment\n\n\ndef make_positions(tensor, padding_idx, onnx_trace=False):\n \"\"\"Replace non-padding symbols with their position numbers.\n\n Position numbers begin at padding_idx+1. Padding symbols are ignored.\n \"\"\"\n # The series of casts and type-conversions here are carefully\n # balanced to both work with ONNX export and XLA. In particular XLA\n # prefers ints, cumsum defaults to output longs, and ONNX doesn't know\n # how to handle the dtype kwarg in cumsum.\n mask = tensor.ne(padding_idx).int()\n return (torch.cumsum(mask, dim=1).type_as(mask) * mask).long() + padding_idx\n\n\ndef strip_pad(tensor, pad):\n return tensor[tensor.ne(pad)]\n\n\ndef buffered_arange(max):\n if not hasattr(buffered_arange, \"buf\"):\n buffered_arange.buf = torch.LongTensor()\n if max > buffered_arange.buf.numel():\n torch.arange(max, out=buffered_arange.buf)\n return buffered_arange.buf[:max]\n\n\ndef convert_padding_direction(\n src_tokens, padding_idx, right_to_left=False, left_to_right=False\n):\n assert right_to_left ^ left_to_right\n pad_mask = src_tokens.eq(padding_idx)\n if not pad_mask.any():\n # no padding, return early\n return src_tokens\n if left_to_right and not pad_mask[:, 0].any():\n # already right padded\n return src_tokens\n if right_to_left and not pad_mask[:, -1].any():\n # already left padded\n return src_tokens\n max_len = src_tokens.size(1)\n range = buffered_arange(max_len).type_as(src_tokens).expand_as(src_tokens)\n num_pads = pad_mask.long().sum(dim=1, keepdim=True)\n if right_to_left:\n index = torch.remainder(range - num_pads, max_len)\n else:\n index = torch.remainder(range + num_pads, max_len)\n return src_tokens.gather(1, index)\n\n\ndef item(tensor):\n if hasattr(tensor, \"item\"):\n return tensor.item()\n if hasattr(tensor, \"__getitem__\"):\n return tensor[0]\n return tensor\n\n\ndef clip_grad_norm_(tensor, max_norm):\n grad_norm = item(torch.norm(tensor))\n if grad_norm > max_norm > 0:\n clip_coef = max_norm / (grad_norm + 1e-6)\n tensor.mul_(clip_coef)\n return grad_norm\n\n\ndef fill_with_neg_inf(t):\n \"\"\"FP16-compatible function that fills a tensor with -inf.\"\"\"\n return t.float().fill_(float(\"-inf\")).type_as(t)\n\n\ndef resolve_max_positions(*args):\n \"\"\"Resolve max position constraints from multiple sources.\"\"\"\n\n def map_value_update(d1, d2):\n updated_value = copy.deepcopy(d1)\n for key in d2:\n if key not in updated_value:\n updated_value[key] = d2[key]\n else:\n updated_value[key] = min(d1[key], d2[key])\n return updated_value\n\n def nullsafe_min(l):\n minim = None\n for item in l:\n if minim is None:\n minim = item\n elif item is not None and item < minim:\n minim = item\n return minim\n\n max_positions = None\n for arg in args:\n if max_positions is None:\n max_positions = arg\n elif arg is not None:\n if isinstance(arg, float) or isinstance(arg, int):\n max_positions = min(max_positions, arg)\n elif isinstance(arg, dict):\n max_positions = map_value_update(max_positions, arg)\n else:\n max_positions = tuple(map(nullsafe_min, zip(max_positions, arg)))\n\n return max_positions\n\n\ndef import_user_module(args):\n module_path = getattr(args, \"user_dir\", None)\n if module_path is not None:\n module_path = os.path.abspath(args.user_dir)\n if not os.path.exists(module_path):\n fairseq_rel_path = os.path.join(\n os.path.dirname(__file__), \"..\", args.user_dir\n )\n if os.path.exists(fairseq_rel_path):\n module_path = fairseq_rel_path\n module_parent, module_name = os.path.split(module_path)\n\n if module_name not in sys.modules:\n sys.path.insert(0, module_parent)\n importlib.import_module(module_name)\n sys.path.pop(0)\n\n\ndef softmax(x, dim, onnx_trace=False):\n if onnx_trace:\n return F.softmax(x.float(), dim=dim)\n else:\n return F.softmax(x, dim=dim, dtype=torch.float32)\n\n\ndef log_softmax(x, dim, onnx_trace=False):\n if onnx_trace:\n return F.log_softmax(x.float(), dim=dim)\n else:\n return F.log_softmax(x, dim=dim, dtype=torch.float32)\n\n\ndef get_perplexity(loss):\n try:\n return float(\"{:.2f}\".format(math.pow(2, loss)))\n except OverflowError:\n return float(\"inf\")\n\n\ndef deprecation_warning(message, stacklevel=3):\n # don't use DeprecationWarning, since it's ignored by default\n warnings.warn(message, stacklevel=stacklevel)\n\n\ndef get_activation_fn(activation: str) -> Callable:\n \"\"\" Returns the activation function corresponding to `activation` \"\"\"\n if activation == \"relu\":\n return F.relu\n elif activation == \"gelu\":\n return gelu\n elif activation == \"gelu_fast\":\n deprecation_warning(\n \"--activation-fn=gelu_fast has been renamed to gelu_accurate\"\n )\n return gelu_accurate\n elif activation == \"gelu_accurate\":\n return gelu_accurate\n elif activation == \"tanh\":\n return torch.tanh\n elif activation == \"linear\":\n return lambda x: x\n else:\n raise RuntimeError(\"--activation-fn {} not supported\".format(activation))\n\n\ndef get_available_activation_fns() -> List:\n return [\n \"relu\",\n \"gelu\",\n \"gelu_fast\", # deprecated\n \"gelu_accurate\",\n \"tanh\",\n \"linear\",\n ]\n\n\n@contextlib.contextmanager\ndef eval(model):\n is_training = model.training\n model.eval()\n yield\n model.train(is_training)\n\n\ndef has_parameters(module):\n try:\n next(module.parameters())\n return True\n except StopIteration:\n return False\n\n\ndef set_torch_seed(seed):\n # Set seed based on args.seed and the update number so that we get\n # reproducible results when resuming from checkpoints\n assert isinstance(seed, int)\n torch.manual_seed(seed)\n torch.cuda.manual_seed(seed)\n\n\ndef parse_alignment(line):\n \"\"\"\n Parses a single line from the alingment file.\n\n Args:\n line (str): String containing the alignment of the format:\n <src_idx_1>-<tgt_idx_1> <src_idx_2>-<tgt_idx_2> ..\n <src_idx_m>-<tgt_idx_m>. All indices are 0 indexed.\n\n Returns:\n torch.IntTensor: packed alignments of shape (2 * m).\n \"\"\"\n alignments = line.strip().split()\n parsed_alignment = torch.IntTensor(2 * len(alignments))\n for idx, alignment in enumerate(alignments):\n src_idx, tgt_idx = alignment.split(\"-\")\n parsed_alignment[2 * idx] = int(src_idx)\n parsed_alignment[2 * idx + 1] = int(tgt_idx)\n return parsed_alignment\n\n\ndef get_token_to_word_mapping(tokens, exclude_list):\n n = len(tokens)\n word_start = [int(token not in exclude_list) for token in tokens]\n word_idx = list(accumulate(word_start))\n token_to_word = {i: word_idx[i] for i in range(n)}\n return token_to_word\n\n\ndef extract_hard_alignment(attn, src_sent, tgt_sent, pad, eos):\n tgt_valid = ((tgt_sent != pad) & (tgt_sent != eos)).nonzero().squeeze(dim=-1)\n src_invalid = ((src_sent == pad) | (src_sent == eos)).nonzero().squeeze(dim=-1)\n src_token_to_word = get_token_to_word_mapping(src_sent, [eos, pad])\n tgt_token_to_word = get_token_to_word_mapping(tgt_sent, [eos, pad])\n alignment = []\n if len(tgt_valid) != 0 and len(src_invalid) < len(src_sent):\n attn_valid = attn[tgt_valid]\n attn_valid[:, src_invalid] = float(\"-inf\")\n _, src_indices = attn_valid.max(dim=1)\n for tgt_idx, src_idx in zip(tgt_valid, src_indices):\n alignment.append(\n (\n src_token_to_word[src_idx.item()] - 1,\n tgt_token_to_word[tgt_idx.item()] - 1,\n )\n )\n return alignment\n\n\ndef new_arange(x, *size):\n \"\"\"\n Return a Tensor of `size` filled with a range function on the device of x.\n If size is empty, using the size of the variable x.\n \"\"\"\n if len(size) == 0:\n size = x.size()\n return torch.arange(size[-1], device=x.device).expand(*size).contiguous()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq_cli/__init__.py", "content": "" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq_cli/eval_lm.py", "content": "../eval_lm.py" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq_cli/generate.py", "content": "../generate.py" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq_cli/interactive.py", "content": "../interactive.py" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq_cli/preprocess.py", "content": "../preprocess.py" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq_cli/score.py", "content": "../score.py" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq_cli/setup.py", "content": "../setup.py" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/fairseq_cli/train.py", "content": "../train.py" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/generate.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3 -u\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\"\"\"\nTranslate pre-processed data with a trained model.\n\"\"\"\n\nimport torch\n\nfrom fairseq import bleu, checkpoint_utils, options, progress_bar, tasks, utils\nfrom fairseq.meters import StopwatchMeter, TimeMeter\n\n\ndef main(args):\n assert args.path is not None, \"--path required for generation!\"\n assert (\n not args.sampling or args.nbest == args.beam\n ), \"--sampling requires --nbest to be equal to --beam\"\n assert (\n args.replace_unk is None or args.raw_text\n ), \"--replace-unk requires a raw text dataset (--raw-text)\"\n\n utils.import_user_module(args)\n\n if args.max_tokens is None and args.max_sentences is None:\n args.max_tokens = 12000\n print(args)\n\n use_cuda = torch.cuda.is_available() and not args.cpu\n\n # Load dataset splits\n task = tasks.setup_task(args)\n task.load_dataset(args.gen_subset)\n\n # Set dictionaries\n try:\n src_dict = getattr(task, \"source_dictionary\", None)\n except NotImplementedError:\n src_dict = None\n tgt_dict = task.target_dictionary\n\n # Load ensemble\n print(\"| loading model(s) from {}\".format(args.path))\n models, _model_args = checkpoint_utils.load_model_ensemble(\n args.path.split(\":\"), arg_overrides=eval(args.model_overrides), task=task,\n )\n\n # Optimize ensemble for generation\n for model in models:\n model.make_generation_fast_(\n beamable_mm_beam_size=None if args.no_beamable_mm else args.beam,\n need_attn=args.print_alignment,\n )\n if args.fp16:\n model.half()\n if use_cuda:\n model.cuda()\n\n # Load alignment dictionary for unknown word replacement\n # (None if no unknown word replacement, empty if no path to align dictionary)\n align_dict = utils.load_align_dict(args.replace_unk)\n\n # Load dataset (possibly sharded)\n itr = task.get_batch_iterator(\n dataset=task.dataset(args.gen_subset),\n max_tokens=args.max_tokens,\n max_sentences=args.max_sentences,\n max_positions=utils.resolve_max_positions(\n task.max_positions(), *[model.max_positions() for model in models]\n ),\n ignore_invalid_inputs=args.skip_invalid_size_inputs_valid_test,\n required_batch_size_multiple=args.required_batch_size_multiple,\n num_shards=args.num_shards,\n shard_id=args.shard_id,\n num_workers=args.num_workers,\n ).next_epoch_itr(shuffle=False)\n\n # Initialize generator\n gen_timer = StopwatchMeter()\n generator = task.build_generator(args)\n\n # Generate and compute BLEU score\n if args.sacrebleu:\n scorer = bleu.SacrebleuScorer()\n else:\n scorer = bleu.Scorer(tgt_dict.pad(), tgt_dict.eos(), tgt_dict.unk())\n num_sentences = 0\n has_target = True\n with progress_bar.build_progress_bar(args, itr) as t:\n wps_meter = TimeMeter()\n for sample in t:\n sample = utils.move_to_cuda(sample) if use_cuda else sample\n if \"net_input\" not in sample:\n continue\n\n prefix_tokens = None\n if args.prefix_size > 0:\n prefix_tokens = sample[\"target\"][:, : args.prefix_size]\n\n gen_timer.start()\n hypos = task.inference_step(generator, models, sample, prefix_tokens)\n num_generated_tokens = sum(len(h[0][\"tokens\"]) for h in hypos)\n gen_timer.stop(num_generated_tokens)\n\n for i, sample_id in enumerate(sample[\"id\"].tolist()):\n has_target = sample[\"target\"] is not None\n\n # Remove padding\n src_tokens = utils.strip_pad(\n sample[\"net_input\"][\"src_tokens\"][i, :], tgt_dict.pad()\n )\n target_tokens = None\n if has_target:\n target_tokens = (\n utils.strip_pad(sample[\"target\"][i, :], tgt_dict.pad())\n .int()\n .cpu()\n )\n\n # Either retrieve the original sentences or regenerate them from tokens.\n if align_dict is not None:\n src_str = task.dataset(args.gen_subset).src.get_original_text(\n sample_id\n )\n target_str = task.dataset(args.gen_subset).tgt.get_original_text(\n sample_id\n )\n else:\n if src_dict is not None:\n src_str = src_dict.string(src_tokens, args.remove_bpe)\n else:\n src_str = \"\"\n if has_target:\n target_str = tgt_dict.string(\n target_tokens, args.remove_bpe, escape_unk=True\n )\n\n if not args.quiet:\n if src_dict is not None:\n print(\"S-{}\\t{}\".format(sample_id, src_str))\n if has_target:\n print(\"T-{}\\t{}\".format(sample_id, target_str))\n\n # Process top predictions\n for j, hypo in enumerate(hypos[i][: args.nbest]):\n hypo_tokens, hypo_str, alignment = utils.post_process_prediction(\n hypo_tokens=hypo[\"tokens\"].int().cpu(),\n src_str=src_str,\n alignment=hypo[\"alignment\"],\n align_dict=align_dict,\n tgt_dict=tgt_dict,\n remove_bpe=args.remove_bpe,\n )\n\n if not args.quiet:\n print(\"H-{}\\t{}\\t{}\".format(sample_id, hypo[\"score\"], hypo_str))\n print(\n \"P-{}\\t{}\".format(\n sample_id,\n \" \".join(\n map(\n lambda x: \"{:.4f}\".format(x),\n hypo[\"positional_scores\"].tolist(),\n )\n ),\n )\n )\n\n if args.print_alignment:\n print(\n \"A-{}\\t{}\".format(\n sample_id,\n \" \".join(\n [\n \"{}-{}\".format(src_idx, tgt_idx)\n for src_idx, tgt_idx in alignment\n ]\n ),\n )\n )\n\n if args.print_step:\n print(\"I-{}\\t{}\".format(sample_id, hypo[\"steps\"]))\n\n if getattr(args, \"retain_iter_history\", False):\n print(\n \"\\n\".join(\n [\n \"E-{}_{}\\t{}\".format(\n sample_id,\n step,\n utils.post_process_prediction(\n h[\"tokens\"].int().cpu(),\n src_str,\n None,\n None,\n tgt_dict,\n None,\n )[1],\n )\n for step, h in enumerate(hypo[\"history\"])\n ]\n )\n )\n\n # Score only the top hypothesis\n if has_target and j == 0:\n if align_dict is not None or args.remove_bpe is not None:\n # Convert back to tokens for evaluation with unk replacement and/or without BPE\n target_tokens = tgt_dict.encode_line(\n target_str, add_if_not_exist=True\n )\n if hasattr(scorer, \"add_string\"):\n scorer.add_string(target_str, hypo_str)\n else:\n scorer.add(target_tokens, hypo_tokens)\n\n wps_meter.update(num_generated_tokens)\n t.log({\"wps\": round(wps_meter.avg)})\n num_sentences += sample[\"nsentences\"]\n\n print(\n \"| Translated {} sentences ({} tokens) in {:.1f}s ({:.2f} sentences/s, {:.2f} tokens/s)\".format(\n num_sentences,\n gen_timer.n,\n gen_timer.sum,\n num_sentences / gen_timer.sum,\n 1.0 / gen_timer.avg,\n )\n )\n if has_target:\n print(\n \"| Generate {} with beam={}: {}\".format(\n args.gen_subset, args.beam, scorer.result_string()\n )\n )\n\n return scorer\n\n\ndef cli_main():\n parser = options.get_generation_parser()\n args = options.parse_args_and_arch(parser)\n main(args)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n cli_main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/hubconf.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport functools\n\nfrom fairseq.hub_utils import BPEHubInterface as bpe # noqa\nfrom fairseq.hub_utils import TokenizerHubInterface as tokenizer # noqa\nfrom fairseq.models import MODEL_REGISTRY\n\n\ndependencies = [\n \"numpy\",\n \"regex\",\n \"requests\",\n \"torch\",\n]\n\n\n# torch.hub doesn't build Cython components, so if they are not found then try\n# to build them here\ntry:\n import fairseq.data.token_block_utils_fast\nexcept (ImportError, ModuleNotFoundError):\n try:\n import cython\n import os\n from setuptools import sandbox\n\n sandbox.run_setup(\n os.path.join(os.path.dirname(__file__), \"setup.py\"),\n [\"build_ext\", \"--inplace\"],\n )\n except (ImportError, ModuleNotFoundError):\n print(\n \"Unable to build Cython components. Please make sure Cython is \"\n \"installed if the torch.hub model you are loading depends on it.\"\n )\n\n\nfor _model_type, _cls in MODEL_REGISTRY.items():\n for model_name in _cls.hub_models().keys():\n globals()[model_name] = functools.partial(_cls.from_pretrained, model_name,)\n # to simplify the interface we only expose named models\n # globals()[_model_type] = _cls.from_pretrained\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/interactive.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3 -u\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\"\"\"\nTranslate raw text with a trained model. Batches data on-the-fly.\n\"\"\"\n\nfrom collections import namedtuple\nimport fileinput\n\nimport torch\n\nfrom fairseq import checkpoint_utils, options, tasks, utils\nfrom fairseq.data import encoders\n\n\nBatch = namedtuple(\"Batch\", \"ids src_tokens src_lengths\")\nTranslation = namedtuple(\"Translation\", \"src_str hypos pos_scores alignments\")\n\n\ndef buffered_read(input, buffer_size):\n buffer = []\n with fileinput.input(files=[input], openhook=fileinput.hook_encoded(\"utf-8\")) as h:\n for src_str in h:\n buffer.append(src_str.strip())\n if len(buffer) >= buffer_size:\n yield buffer\n buffer = []\n\n if len(buffer) > 0:\n yield buffer\n\n\ndef make_batches(lines, args, task, max_positions, encode_fn):\n tokens = [\n task.source_dictionary.encode_line(\n encode_fn(src_str), add_if_not_exist=False\n ).long()\n for src_str in lines\n ]\n lengths = torch.LongTensor([t.numel() for t in tokens])\n itr = task.get_batch_iterator(\n dataset=task.build_dataset_for_inference(tokens, lengths),\n max_tokens=args.max_tokens,\n max_sentences=args.max_sentences,\n max_positions=max_positions,\n ).next_epoch_itr(shuffle=False)\n for batch in itr:\n yield Batch(\n ids=batch[\"id\"],\n src_tokens=batch[\"net_input\"][\"src_tokens\"],\n src_lengths=batch[\"net_input\"][\"src_lengths\"],\n )\n\n\ndef main(args):\n utils.import_user_module(args)\n\n if args.buffer_size < 1:\n args.buffer_size = 1\n if args.max_tokens is None and args.max_sentences is None:\n args.max_sentences = 1\n\n assert (\n not args.sampling or args.nbest == args.beam\n ), \"--sampling requires --nbest to be equal to --beam\"\n assert (\n not args.max_sentences or args.max_sentences <= args.buffer_size\n ), \"--max-sentences/--batch-size cannot be larger than --buffer-size\"\n\n print(args)\n\n use_cuda = torch.cuda.is_available() and not args.cpu\n\n # Setup task, e.g., translation\n task = tasks.setup_task(args)\n\n # Load ensemble\n print(\"| loading model(s) from {}\".format(args.path))\n models, _model_args = checkpoint_utils.load_model_ensemble(\n args.path.split(\":\"), arg_overrides=eval(args.model_overrides), task=task,\n )\n\n # Set dictionaries\n src_dict = task.source_dictionary\n tgt_dict = task.target_dictionary\n\n # Optimize ensemble for generation\n for model in models:\n model.make_generation_fast_(\n beamable_mm_beam_size=None if args.no_beamable_mm else args.beam,\n need_attn=args.print_alignment,\n )\n if args.fp16:\n model.half()\n if use_cuda:\n model.cuda()\n\n # Initialize generator\n generator = task.build_generator(args)\n\n # Handle tokenization and BPE\n tokenizer = encoders.build_tokenizer(args)\n bpe = encoders.build_bpe(args)\n\n def encode_fn(x):\n if tokenizer is not None:\n x = tokenizer.encode(x)\n if bpe is not None:\n x = bpe.encode(x)\n return x\n\n def decode_fn(x):\n if bpe is not None:\n x = bpe.decode(x)\n if tokenizer is not None:\n x = tokenizer.decode(x)\n return x\n\n # Load alignment dictionary for unknown word replacement\n # (None if no unknown word replacement, empty if no path to align dictionary)\n align_dict = utils.load_align_dict(args.replace_unk)\n\n max_positions = utils.resolve_max_positions(\n task.max_positions(), *[model.max_positions() for model in models]\n )\n\n if args.buffer_size > 1:\n print(\"| Sentence buffer size:\", args.buffer_size)\n print(\"| Type the input sentence and press return:\")\n start_id = 0\n for inputs in buffered_read(args.input, args.buffer_size):\n results = []\n for batch in make_batches(inputs, args, task, max_positions, encode_fn):\n src_tokens = batch.src_tokens\n src_lengths = batch.src_lengths\n if use_cuda:\n src_tokens = src_tokens.cuda()\n src_lengths = src_lengths.cuda()\n\n sample = {\n \"net_input\": {\"src_tokens\": src_tokens, \"src_lengths\": src_lengths,},\n }\n translations = task.inference_step(generator, models, sample)\n for i, (id, hypos) in enumerate(zip(batch.ids.tolist(), translations)):\n src_tokens_i = utils.strip_pad(src_tokens[i], tgt_dict.pad())\n results.append((start_id + id, src_tokens_i, hypos))\n\n # sort output to match input order\n for id, src_tokens, hypos in sorted(results, key=lambda x: x[0]):\n if src_dict is not None:\n src_str = src_dict.string(src_tokens, args.remove_bpe)\n print(\"S-{}\\t{}\".format(id, src_str))\n\n # Process top predictions\n for hypo in hypos[: min(len(hypos), args.nbest)]:\n hypo_tokens, hypo_str, alignment = utils.post_process_prediction(\n hypo_tokens=hypo[\"tokens\"].int().cpu(),\n src_str=src_str,\n alignment=hypo[\"alignment\"],\n align_dict=align_dict,\n tgt_dict=tgt_dict,\n remove_bpe=args.remove_bpe,\n )\n hypo_str = decode_fn(hypo_str)\n print(\"H-{}\\t{}\\t{}\".format(id, hypo[\"score\"], hypo_str))\n print(\n \"P-{}\\t{}\".format(\n id,\n \" \".join(\n map(\n lambda x: \"{:.4f}\".format(x),\n hypo[\"positional_scores\"].tolist(),\n )\n ),\n )\n )\n if args.print_alignment:\n alignment_str = \" \".join(\n [\"{}-{}\".format(src, tgt) for src, tgt in alignment]\n )\n print(\"A-{}\\t{}\".format(id, alignment_str))\n\n # update running id counter\n start_id += len(inputs)\n\n\ndef cli_main():\n parser = options.get_generation_parser(interactive=True)\n args = options.parse_args_and_arch(parser)\n main(args)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n cli_main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/preprocess.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\"\"\"\nData pre-processing: build vocabularies and binarize training data.\n\"\"\"\n\nfrom collections import Counter\nfrom itertools import zip_longest\n\nfrom fairseq import options, tasks, utils\nfrom fairseq.data import indexed_dataset\nfrom fairseq.binarizer import Binarizer\nfrom multiprocessing import Pool\n\nimport os\nimport shutil\n\n\ndef main(args):\n utils.import_user_module(args)\n\n print(args)\n\n os.makedirs(args.destdir, exist_ok=True)\n target = not args.only_source\n\n task = tasks.get_task(args.task)\n\n def train_path(lang):\n return \"{}{}\".format(args.trainpref, (\".\" + lang) if lang else \"\")\n\n def file_name(prefix, lang):\n fname = prefix\n if lang is not None:\n fname += \".{lang}\".format(lang=lang)\n return fname\n\n def dest_path(prefix, lang):\n return os.path.join(args.destdir, file_name(prefix, lang))\n\n def dict_path(lang):\n return dest_path(\"dict\", lang) + \".txt\"\n\n def build_dictionary(filenames, src=False, tgt=False):\n assert src ^ tgt\n return task.build_dictionary(\n filenames,\n workers=args.workers,\n threshold=args.thresholdsrc if src else args.thresholdtgt,\n nwords=args.nwordssrc if src else args.nwordstgt,\n padding_factor=args.padding_factor,\n )\n\n if not args.srcdict and os.path.exists(dict_path(args.source_lang)):\n raise FileExistsError(dict_path(args.source_lang))\n if target and not args.tgtdict and os.path.exists(dict_path(args.target_lang)):\n raise FileExistsError(dict_path(args.target_lang))\n\n if args.joined_dictionary:\n assert (\n not args.srcdict or not args.tgtdict\n ), \"cannot use both --srcdict and --tgtdict with --joined-dictionary\"\n\n if args.srcdict:\n src_dict = task.load_dictionary(args.srcdict)\n elif args.tgtdict:\n src_dict = task.load_dictionary(args.tgtdict)\n else:\n assert (\n args.trainpref\n ), \"--trainpref must be set if --srcdict is not specified\"\n src_dict = build_dictionary(\n {train_path(lang) for lang in [args.source_lang, args.target_lang]},\n src=True,\n )\n tgt_dict = src_dict\n else:\n if args.srcdict:\n src_dict = task.load_dictionary(args.srcdict)\n else:\n assert (\n args.trainpref\n ), \"--trainpref must be set if --srcdict is not specified\"\n src_dict = build_dictionary([train_path(args.source_lang)], src=True)\n\n if target:\n if args.tgtdict:\n tgt_dict = task.load_dictionary(args.tgtdict)\n else:\n assert (\n args.trainpref\n ), \"--trainpref must be set if --tgtdict is not specified\"\n tgt_dict = build_dictionary([train_path(args.target_lang)], tgt=True)\n else:\n tgt_dict = None\n\n src_dict.save(dict_path(args.source_lang))\n if target and tgt_dict is not None:\n tgt_dict.save(dict_path(args.target_lang))\n\n def make_binary_dataset(vocab, input_prefix, output_prefix, lang, num_workers):\n print(\"| [{}] Dictionary: {} types\".format(lang, len(vocab) - 1))\n n_seq_tok = [0, 0]\n replaced = Counter()\n\n def merge_result(worker_result):\n replaced.update(worker_result[\"replaced\"])\n n_seq_tok[0] += worker_result[\"nseq\"]\n n_seq_tok[1] += worker_result[\"ntok\"]\n\n input_file = \"{}{}\".format(\n input_prefix, (\".\" + lang) if lang is not None else \"\"\n )\n offsets = Binarizer.find_offsets(input_file, num_workers)\n pool = None\n if num_workers > 1:\n pool = Pool(processes=num_workers - 1)\n for worker_id in range(1, num_workers):\n prefix = \"{}{}\".format(output_prefix, worker_id)\n pool.apply_async(\n binarize,\n (\n args,\n input_file,\n vocab,\n prefix,\n lang,\n offsets[worker_id],\n offsets[worker_id + 1],\n ),\n callback=merge_result,\n )\n pool.close()\n\n ds = indexed_dataset.make_builder(\n dataset_dest_file(args, output_prefix, lang, \"bin\"),\n impl=args.dataset_impl,\n vocab_size=len(vocab),\n )\n merge_result(\n Binarizer.binarize(\n input_file, vocab, lambda t: ds.add_item(t), offset=0, end=offsets[1]\n )\n )\n if num_workers > 1:\n pool.join()\n for worker_id in range(1, num_workers):\n prefix = \"{}{}\".format(output_prefix, worker_id)\n temp_file_path = dataset_dest_prefix(args, prefix, lang)\n ds.merge_file_(temp_file_path)\n os.remove(indexed_dataset.data_file_path(temp_file_path))\n os.remove(indexed_dataset.index_file_path(temp_file_path))\n\n ds.finalize(dataset_dest_file(args, output_prefix, lang, \"idx\"))\n\n print(\n \"| [{}] {}: {} sents, {} tokens, {:.3}% replaced by {}\".format(\n lang,\n input_file,\n n_seq_tok[0],\n n_seq_tok[1],\n 100 * sum(replaced.values()) / n_seq_tok[1],\n vocab.unk_word,\n )\n )\n\n def make_binary_alignment_dataset(input_prefix, output_prefix, num_workers):\n nseq = [0]\n\n def merge_result(worker_result):\n nseq[0] += worker_result[\"nseq\"]\n\n input_file = input_prefix\n offsets = Binarizer.find_offsets(input_file, num_workers)\n pool = None\n if num_workers > 1:\n pool = Pool(processes=num_workers - 1)\n for worker_id in range(1, num_workers):\n prefix = \"{}{}\".format(output_prefix, worker_id)\n pool.apply_async(\n binarize_alignments,\n (\n args,\n input_file,\n utils.parse_alignment,\n prefix,\n offsets[worker_id],\n offsets[worker_id + 1],\n ),\n callback=merge_result,\n )\n pool.close()\n\n ds = indexed_dataset.make_builder(\n dataset_dest_file(args, output_prefix, None, \"bin\"), impl=args.dataset_impl\n )\n\n merge_result(\n Binarizer.binarize_alignments(\n input_file,\n utils.parse_alignment,\n lambda t: ds.add_item(t),\n offset=0,\n end=offsets[1],\n )\n )\n if num_workers > 1:\n pool.join()\n for worker_id in range(1, num_workers):\n prefix = \"{}{}\".format(output_prefix, worker_id)\n temp_file_path = dataset_dest_prefix(args, prefix, None)\n ds.merge_file_(temp_file_path)\n os.remove(indexed_dataset.data_file_path(temp_file_path))\n os.remove(indexed_dataset.index_file_path(temp_file_path))\n\n ds.finalize(dataset_dest_file(args, output_prefix, None, \"idx\"))\n\n print(\"| [alignments] {}: parsed {} alignments\".format(input_file, nseq[0]))\n\n def make_dataset(vocab, input_prefix, output_prefix, lang, num_workers=1):\n if args.dataset_impl == \"raw\":\n # Copy original text file to destination folder\n output_text_file = dest_path(\n output_prefix + \".{}-{}\".format(args.source_lang, args.target_lang),\n lang,\n )\n shutil.copyfile(file_name(input_prefix, lang), output_text_file)\n else:\n make_binary_dataset(vocab, input_prefix, output_prefix, lang, num_workers)\n\n def make_all(lang, vocab):\n if args.trainpref:\n make_dataset(vocab, args.trainpref, \"train\", lang, num_workers=args.workers)\n if args.validpref:\n for k, validpref in enumerate(args.validpref.split(\",\")):\n outprefix = \"valid{}\".format(k) if k > 0 else \"valid\"\n make_dataset(\n vocab, validpref, outprefix, lang, num_workers=args.workers\n )\n if args.testpref:\n for k, testpref in enumerate(args.testpref.split(\",\")):\n outprefix = \"test{}\".format(k) if k > 0 else \"test\"\n make_dataset(vocab, testpref, outprefix, lang, num_workers=args.workers)\n\n def make_all_alignments():\n if args.trainpref and os.path.exists(args.trainpref + \".\" + args.align_suffix):\n make_binary_alignment_dataset(\n args.trainpref + \".\" + args.align_suffix,\n \"train.align\",\n num_workers=args.workers,\n )\n if args.validpref and os.path.exists(args.validpref + \".\" + args.align_suffix):\n make_binary_alignment_dataset(\n args.validpref + \".\" + args.align_suffix,\n \"valid.align\",\n num_workers=args.workers,\n )\n if args.testpref and os.path.exists(args.testpref + \".\" + args.align_suffix):\n make_binary_alignment_dataset(\n args.testpref + \".\" + args.align_suffix,\n \"test.align\",\n num_workers=args.workers,\n )\n\n make_all(args.source_lang, src_dict)\n if target:\n make_all(args.target_lang, tgt_dict)\n if args.align_suffix:\n make_all_alignments()\n\n print(\"| Wrote preprocessed data to {}\".format(args.destdir))\n\n if args.alignfile:\n assert args.trainpref, \"--trainpref must be set if --alignfile is specified\"\n src_file_name = train_path(args.source_lang)\n tgt_file_name = train_path(args.target_lang)\n freq_map = {}\n with open(args.alignfile, \"r\", encoding=\"utf-8\") as align_file:\n with open(src_file_name, \"r\", encoding=\"utf-8\") as src_file:\n with open(tgt_file_name, \"r\", encoding=\"utf-8\") as tgt_file:\n for a, s, t in zip_longest(align_file, src_file, tgt_file):\n si = src_dict.encode_line(s, add_if_not_exist=False)\n ti = tgt_dict.encode_line(t, add_if_not_exist=False)\n ai = list(map(lambda x: tuple(x.split(\"-\")), a.split()))\n for sai, tai in ai:\n srcidx = si[int(sai)]\n tgtidx = ti[int(tai)]\n if srcidx != src_dict.unk() and tgtidx != tgt_dict.unk():\n assert srcidx != src_dict.pad()\n assert srcidx != src_dict.eos()\n assert tgtidx != tgt_dict.pad()\n assert tgtidx != tgt_dict.eos()\n\n if srcidx not in freq_map:\n freq_map[srcidx] = {}\n if tgtidx not in freq_map[srcidx]:\n freq_map[srcidx][tgtidx] = 1\n else:\n freq_map[srcidx][tgtidx] += 1\n\n align_dict = {}\n for srcidx in freq_map.keys():\n align_dict[srcidx] = max(freq_map[srcidx], key=freq_map[srcidx].get)\n\n with open(\n os.path.join(\n args.destdir,\n \"alignment.{}-{}.txt\".format(args.source_lang, args.target_lang),\n ),\n \"w\",\n encoding=\"utf-8\",\n ) as f:\n for k, v in align_dict.items():\n print(\"{} {}\".format(src_dict[k], tgt_dict[v]), file=f)\n\n\ndef binarize(args, filename, vocab, output_prefix, lang, offset, end, append_eos=True):\n ds = indexed_dataset.make_builder(\n dataset_dest_file(args, output_prefix, lang, \"bin\"),\n impl=args.dataset_impl,\n vocab_size=len(vocab),\n )\n\n def consumer(tensor):\n ds.add_item(tensor)\n\n res = Binarizer.binarize(\n filename, vocab, consumer, append_eos=append_eos, offset=offset, end=end\n )\n ds.finalize(dataset_dest_file(args, output_prefix, lang, \"idx\"))\n return res\n\n\ndef binarize_alignments(args, filename, parse_alignment, output_prefix, offset, end):\n ds = indexed_dataset.make_builder(\n dataset_dest_file(args, output_prefix, None, \"bin\"),\n impl=args.dataset_impl,\n vocab_size=None,\n )\n\n def consumer(tensor):\n ds.add_item(tensor)\n\n res = Binarizer.binarize_alignments(\n filename, parse_alignment, consumer, offset=offset, end=end\n )\n ds.finalize(dataset_dest_file(args, output_prefix, None, \"idx\"))\n return res\n\n\ndef dataset_dest_prefix(args, output_prefix, lang):\n base = \"{}/{}\".format(args.destdir, output_prefix)\n if lang is not None:\n lang_part = \".{}-{}.{}\".format(args.source_lang, args.target_lang, lang)\n elif args.only_source:\n lang_part = \"\"\n else:\n lang_part = \".{}-{}\".format(args.source_lang, args.target_lang)\n\n return \"{}{}\".format(base, lang_part)\n\n\ndef dataset_dest_file(args, output_prefix, lang, extension):\n base = dataset_dest_prefix(args, output_prefix, lang)\n return \"{}.{}\".format(base, extension)\n\n\ndef get_offsets(input_file, num_workers):\n return Binarizer.find_offsets(input_file, num_workers)\n\n\ndef cli_main():\n parser = options.get_preprocessing_parser()\n args = parser.parse_args()\n main(args)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n cli_main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/score.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\"\"\"\nBLEU scoring of generated translations against reference translations.\n\"\"\"\n\nimport argparse\nimport os\nimport sys\n\nfrom fairseq import bleu\nfrom fairseq.data import dictionary\n\n\ndef get_parser():\n parser = argparse.ArgumentParser(\n description=\"Command-line script for BLEU scoring.\"\n )\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument('-s', '--sys', default='-', help='system output')\n parser.add_argument('-r', '--ref', required=True, help='references')\n parser.add_argument('-o', '--order', default=4, metavar='N',\n type=int, help='consider ngrams up to this order')\n parser.add_argument('--ignore-case', action='store_true',\n help='case-insensitive scoring')\n parser.add_argument('--sacrebleu', action='store_true',\n help='score with sacrebleu')\n parser.add_argument('--sentence-bleu', action='store_true',\n help='report sentence-level BLEUs (i.e., with +1 smoothing)')\n # fmt: on\n return parser\n\n\ndef main():\n parser = get_parser()\n args = parser.parse_args()\n print(args)\n\n assert args.sys == \"-\" or os.path.exists(\n args.sys\n ), \"System output file {} does not exist\".format(args.sys)\n assert os.path.exists(args.ref), \"Reference file {} does not exist\".format(args.ref)\n\n dict = dictionary.Dictionary()\n\n def readlines(fd):\n for line in fd.readlines():\n if args.ignore_case:\n yield line.lower()\n else:\n yield line\n\n if args.sacrebleu:\n import sacrebleu\n\n def score(fdsys):\n with open(args.ref) as fdref:\n print(sacrebleu.corpus_bleu(fdsys, [fdref]))\n\n elif args.sentence_bleu:\n\n def score(fdsys):\n with open(args.ref) as fdref:\n scorer = bleu.Scorer(dict.pad(), dict.eos(), dict.unk())\n for i, (sys_tok, ref_tok) in enumerate(\n zip(readlines(fdsys), readlines(fdref))\n ):\n scorer.reset(one_init=True)\n sys_tok = dict.encode_line(sys_tok)\n ref_tok = dict.encode_line(ref_tok)\n scorer.add(ref_tok, sys_tok)\n print(i, scorer.result_string(args.order))\n\n else:\n\n def score(fdsys):\n with open(args.ref) as fdref:\n scorer = bleu.Scorer(dict.pad(), dict.eos(), dict.unk())\n for sys_tok, ref_tok in zip(readlines(fdsys), readlines(fdref)):\n sys_tok = dict.encode_line(sys_tok)\n ref_tok = dict.encode_line(ref_tok)\n scorer.add(ref_tok, sys_tok)\n print(scorer.result_string(args.order))\n\n if args.sys == \"-\":\n score(sys.stdin)\n else:\n with open(args.sys, \"r\") as f:\n score(f)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/scripts/__init__.py", "content": "" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/scripts/average_checkpoints.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport argparse\nimport collections\nimport torch\nimport os\nimport re\n\n\ndef average_checkpoints(inputs):\n \"\"\"Loads checkpoints from inputs and returns a model with averaged weights.\n\n Args:\n inputs: An iterable of string paths of checkpoints to load from.\n\n Returns:\n A dict of string keys mapping to various values. The 'model' key\n from the returned dict should correspond to an OrderedDict mapping\n string parameter names to torch Tensors.\n \"\"\"\n params_dict = collections.OrderedDict()\n params_keys = None\n new_state = None\n num_models = len(inputs)\n\n for f in inputs:\n state = torch.load(\n f,\n map_location=(\n lambda s, _: torch.serialization.default_restore_location(s, \"cpu\")\n ),\n )\n # Copies over the settings from the first checkpoint\n if new_state is None:\n new_state = state\n\n model_params = state[\"model\"]\n\n model_params_keys = list(model_params.keys())\n if params_keys is None:\n params_keys = model_params_keys\n elif params_keys != model_params_keys:\n raise KeyError(\n \"For checkpoint {}, expected list of params: {}, \"\n \"but found: {}\".format(f, params_keys, model_params_keys)\n )\n\n for k in params_keys:\n p = model_params[k]\n if isinstance(p, torch.HalfTensor):\n p = p.float()\n if k not in params_dict:\n params_dict[k] = p.clone()\n # NOTE: clone() is needed in case of p is a shared parameter\n else:\n params_dict[k] += p\n\n averaged_params = collections.OrderedDict()\n for k, v in params_dict.items():\n averaged_params[k] = v\n averaged_params[k].div_(num_models)\n new_state[\"model\"] = averaged_params\n return new_state\n\n\ndef last_n_checkpoints(paths, n, update_based, upper_bound=None):\n assert len(paths) == 1\n path = paths[0]\n if update_based:\n pt_regexp = re.compile(r\"checkpoint_\\d+_(\\d+)\\.pt\")\n else:\n pt_regexp = re.compile(r\"checkpoint(\\d+)\\.pt\")\n files = os.listdir(path)\n\n entries = []\n for f in files:\n m = pt_regexp.fullmatch(f)\n if m is not None:\n sort_key = int(m.group(1))\n if upper_bound is None or sort_key <= upper_bound:\n entries.append((sort_key, m.group(0)))\n if len(entries) < n:\n raise Exception(\n \"Found {} checkpoint files but need at least {}\", len(entries), n\n )\n return [os.path.join(path, x[1]) for x in sorted(entries, reverse=True)[:n]]\n\n\ndef main():\n parser = argparse.ArgumentParser(\n description=\"Tool to average the params of input checkpoints to \"\n \"produce a new checkpoint\",\n )\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument('--inputs', required=True, nargs='+',\n help='Input checkpoint file paths.')\n parser.add_argument('--output', required=True, metavar='FILE',\n help='Write the new checkpoint containing the averaged weights to this path.')\n num_group = parser.add_mutually_exclusive_group()\n num_group.add_argument('--num-epoch-checkpoints', type=int,\n help='if set, will try to find checkpoints with names checkpoint_xx.pt in the path specified by input, '\n 'and average last this many of them.')\n num_group.add_argument('--num-update-checkpoints', type=int,\n help='if set, will try to find checkpoints with names checkpoint_ee_xx.pt in the path specified by input, '\n 'and average last this many of them.')\n parser.add_argument('--checkpoint-upper-bound', type=int,\n help='when using --num-epoch-checkpoints, this will set an upper bound on which checkpoint to use, '\n 'e.g., with --num-epoch-checkpoints=10 --checkpoint-upper-bound=50, checkpoints 41-50 would be averaged.')\n # fmt: on\n args = parser.parse_args()\n print(args)\n\n num = None\n is_update_based = False\n if args.num_update_checkpoints is not None:\n num = args.num_update_checkpoints\n is_update_based = True\n elif args.num_epoch_checkpoints is not None:\n num = args.num_epoch_checkpoints\n\n assert (\n args.checkpoint_upper_bound is None or args.num_epoch_checkpoints is not None\n ), \"--checkpoint-upper-bound requires --num-epoch-checkpoints\"\n assert (\n args.num_epoch_checkpoints is None or args.num_update_checkpoints is None\n ), \"Cannot combine --num-epoch-checkpoints and --num-update-checkpoints\"\n\n if num is not None:\n args.inputs = last_n_checkpoints(\n args.inputs, num, is_update_based, upper_bound=args.checkpoint_upper_bound,\n )\n print(\"averaging checkpoints: \", args.inputs)\n\n new_state = average_checkpoints(args.inputs)\n torch.save(new_state, args.output)\n print(\"Finished writing averaged checkpoint to {}.\".format(args.output))\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/scripts/build_sym_alignment.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\"\"\"\nUse this script in order to build symmetric alignments for your translation\ndataset.\nThis script depends on fast_align and mosesdecoder tools. You will need to\nbuild those before running the script.\nfast_align:\n github: http://github.com/clab/fast_align\n instructions: follow the instructions in README.md\nmosesdecoder:\n github: http://github.com/moses-smt/mosesdecoder\n instructions: http://www.statmt.org/moses/?n=Development.GetStarted\nThe script produces the following files under --output_dir:\n text.joined - concatenation of lines from the source_file and the\n target_file.\n align.forward - forward pass of fast_align.\n align.backward - backward pass of fast_align.\n aligned.sym_heuristic - symmetrized alignment.\n\"\"\"\n\nimport argparse\nimport os\nfrom itertools import zip_longest\n\n\ndef main():\n parser = argparse.ArgumentParser(description=\"symmetric alignment builer\")\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument('--fast_align_dir',\n help='path to fast_align build directory')\n parser.add_argument('--mosesdecoder_dir',\n help='path to mosesdecoder root directory')\n parser.add_argument('--sym_heuristic',\n help='heuristic to use for symmetrization',\n default='grow-diag-final-and')\n parser.add_argument('--source_file',\n help='path to a file with sentences '\n 'in the source language')\n parser.add_argument('--target_file',\n help='path to a file with sentences '\n 'in the target language')\n parser.add_argument('--output_dir',\n help='output directory')\n # fmt: on\n args = parser.parse_args()\n\n fast_align_bin = os.path.join(args.fast_align_dir, \"fast_align\")\n symal_bin = os.path.join(args.mosesdecoder_dir, \"bin\", \"symal\")\n sym_fast_align_bin = os.path.join(\n args.mosesdecoder_dir, \"scripts\", \"ems\", \"support\", \"symmetrize-fast-align.perl\"\n )\n\n # create joined file\n joined_file = os.path.join(args.output_dir, \"text.joined\")\n with open(args.source_file, \"r\", encoding=\"utf-8\") as src, open(\n args.target_file, \"r\", encoding=\"utf-8\"\n ) as tgt:\n with open(joined_file, \"w\", encoding=\"utf-8\") as joined:\n for s, t in zip_longest(src, tgt):\n print(\"{} ||| {}\".format(s.strip(), t.strip()), file=joined)\n\n bwd_align_file = os.path.join(args.output_dir, \"align.backward\")\n\n # run forward alignment\n fwd_align_file = os.path.join(args.output_dir, \"align.forward\")\n fwd_fast_align_cmd = \"{FASTALIGN} -i {JOINED} -d -o -v > {FWD}\".format(\n FASTALIGN=fast_align_bin, JOINED=joined_file, FWD=fwd_align_file\n )\n assert os.system(fwd_fast_align_cmd) == 0\n\n # run backward alignment\n bwd_align_file = os.path.join(args.output_dir, \"align.backward\")\n bwd_fast_align_cmd = \"{FASTALIGN} -i {JOINED} -d -o -v -r > {BWD}\".format(\n FASTALIGN=fast_align_bin, JOINED=joined_file, BWD=bwd_align_file\n )\n assert os.system(bwd_fast_align_cmd) == 0\n\n # run symmetrization\n sym_out_file = os.path.join(args.output_dir, \"aligned\")\n sym_cmd = \"{SYMFASTALIGN} {FWD} {BWD} {SRC} {TGT} {OUT} {HEURISTIC} {SYMAL}\".format(\n SYMFASTALIGN=sym_fast_align_bin,\n FWD=fwd_align_file,\n BWD=bwd_align_file,\n SRC=args.source_file,\n TGT=args.target_file,\n OUT=sym_out_file,\n HEURISTIC=args.sym_heuristic,\n SYMAL=symal_bin,\n )\n assert os.system(sym_cmd) == 0\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/scripts/compare_namespaces.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python\n\"\"\"Helper script to compare two argparse.Namespace objects.\"\"\"\n\nfrom argparse import Namespace # noqa\n\n\ndef main():\n\n ns1 = eval(input(\"Namespace 1: \"))\n ns2 = eval(input(\"Namespace 2: \"))\n\n def keys(ns):\n ks = set()\n for k in dir(ns):\n if not k.startswith(\"_\"):\n ks.add(k)\n return ks\n\n k1 = keys(ns1)\n k2 = keys(ns2)\n\n def print_keys(ks, ns1, ns2=None):\n for k in ks:\n if ns2 is None:\n print(\"{}\\t{}\".format(k, getattr(ns1, k, None)))\n else:\n print(\n \"{}\\t{}\\t{}\".format(k, getattr(ns1, k, None), getattr(ns2, k, None))\n )\n\n print(\"Keys unique to namespace 1:\")\n print_keys(k1 - k2, ns1)\n print()\n\n print(\"Keys unique to namespace 2:\")\n print_keys(k2 - k1, ns2)\n print()\n\n print(\"Overlapping keys with different values:\")\n ks = [k for k in k1 & k2 if getattr(ns1, k, \"None\") != getattr(ns2, k, \"None\")]\n print_keys(ks, ns1, ns2)\n print()\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/scripts/compound_split_bleu.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n\nif [ $# -ne 1 ]; then\n echo \"usage: $0 GENERATE_PY_OUTPUT\"\n exit 1\nfi\n\nGEN=$1\n\nSYS=$GEN.sys\nREF=$GEN.ref\n\nif [ $(tail -n 1 $GEN | grep BLEU | wc -l) -ne 1 ]; then\n echo \"not done generating\"\n exit\nfi\n\ngrep ^H $GEN | cut -f3- | perl -ple 's{(\\S)-(\\S)}{$1 ##AT##-##AT## $2}g' > $SYS\ngrep ^T $GEN | cut -f2- | perl -ple 's{(\\S)-(\\S)}{$1 ##AT##-##AT## $2}g' > $REF\nfairseq-score --sys $SYS --ref $REF\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/scripts/convert_dictionary.lua", "content": "-- Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n--\n-- This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n-- LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n--\n-- Usage: convert_dictionary.lua <dict.th7>\nrequire 'fairseq'\nrequire 'torch'\nrequire 'paths'\n\nif #arg < 1 then\n print('usage: convert_dictionary.lua <dict.th7>')\n os.exit(1)\nend\nif not paths.filep(arg[1]) then\n print('error: file does not exit: ' .. arg[1])\n os.exit(1)\nend\n\ndict = torch.load(arg[1])\ndst = paths.basename(arg[1]):gsub('.th7', '.txt')\nassert(dst:match('.txt$'))\n\nf = io.open(dst, 'w')\nfor idx, symbol in ipairs(dict.index_to_symbol) do\n if idx > dict.cutoff then\n break\n end\n f:write(symbol)\n f:write(' ')\n f:write(dict.index_to_freq[idx])\n f:write('\\n')\nend\nf:close()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/scripts/convert_model.lua", "content": "-- Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n--\n-- This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n-- LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n--\n-- Usage: convert_model.lua <model_epoch1.th7>\nrequire 'torch'\nlocal fairseq = require 'fairseq'\n\nmodel = torch.load(arg[1])\n\nfunction find_weight_norm(container, module)\n for _, wn in ipairs(container:listModules()) do\n if torch.type(wn) == 'nn.WeightNorm' and wn.modules[1] == module then\n return wn\n end\n end\nend\n\nfunction push_state(dict, key, module)\n if torch.type(module) == 'nn.Linear' then\n local wn = find_weight_norm(model.module, module)\n assert(wn)\n dict[key .. '.weight_v'] = wn.v:float()\n dict[key .. '.weight_g'] = wn.g:float()\n elseif torch.type(module) == 'nn.TemporalConvolutionTBC' then\n local wn = find_weight_norm(model.module, module)\n assert(wn)\n local v = wn.v:float():view(wn.viewOut):transpose(2, 3)\n dict[key .. '.weight_v'] = v\n dict[key .. '.weight_g'] = wn.g:float():view(module.weight:size(3), 1, 1)\n else\n dict[key .. '.weight'] = module.weight:float()\n end\n if module.bias then\n dict[key .. '.bias'] = module.bias:float()\n end\nend\n\nencoder_dict = {}\ndecoder_dict = {}\ncombined_dict = {}\n\nfunction encoder_state(encoder)\n luts = encoder:findModules('nn.LookupTable')\n push_state(encoder_dict, 'embed_tokens', luts[1])\n push_state(encoder_dict, 'embed_positions', luts[2])\n\n fcs = encoder:findModules('nn.Linear')\n assert(#fcs >= 2)\n local nInputPlane = fcs[1].weight:size(1)\n push_state(encoder_dict, 'fc1', table.remove(fcs, 1))\n push_state(encoder_dict, 'fc2', table.remove(fcs, #fcs))\n\n for i, module in ipairs(encoder:findModules('nn.TemporalConvolutionTBC')) do\n push_state(encoder_dict, 'convolutions.' .. tostring(i - 1), module)\n if nInputPlane ~= module.weight:size(3) / 2 then\n push_state(encoder_dict, 'projections.' .. tostring(i - 1), table.remove(fcs, 1))\n end\n nInputPlane = module.weight:size(3) / 2\n end\n assert(#fcs == 0)\nend\n\nfunction decoder_state(decoder)\n luts = decoder:findModules('nn.LookupTable')\n push_state(decoder_dict, 'embed_tokens', luts[1])\n push_state(decoder_dict, 'embed_positions', luts[2])\n\n fcs = decoder:findModules('nn.Linear')\n local nInputPlane = fcs[1].weight:size(1)\n push_state(decoder_dict, 'fc1', table.remove(fcs, 1))\n push_state(decoder_dict, 'fc2', fcs[#fcs - 1])\n push_state(decoder_dict, 'fc3', fcs[#fcs])\n\n table.remove(fcs, #fcs)\n table.remove(fcs, #fcs)\n\n for i, module in ipairs(decoder:findModules('nn.TemporalConvolutionTBC')) do\n if nInputPlane ~= module.weight:size(3) / 2 then\n push_state(decoder_dict, 'projections.' .. tostring(i - 1), table.remove(fcs, 1))\n end\n nInputPlane = module.weight:size(3) / 2\n\n local prefix = 'attention.' .. tostring(i - 1)\n push_state(decoder_dict, prefix .. '.in_projection', table.remove(fcs, 1))\n push_state(decoder_dict, prefix .. '.out_projection', table.remove(fcs, 1))\n push_state(decoder_dict, 'convolutions.' .. tostring(i - 1), module)\n end\n assert(#fcs == 0)\nend\n\n\n_encoder = model.module.modules[2]\n_decoder = model.module.modules[3]\n\nencoder_state(_encoder)\ndecoder_state(_decoder)\n\nfor k, v in pairs(encoder_dict) do\n combined_dict['encoder.' .. k] = v\nend\nfor k, v in pairs(decoder_dict) do\n combined_dict['decoder.' .. k] = v\nend\n\n\ntorch.save('state_dict.t7', combined_dict)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/scripts/count_docs.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\"\"\"\nCount the number of documents and average number of lines and tokens per\ndocument in a large file. Documents should be separated by a single empty line.\n\"\"\"\n\nimport argparse\nimport gzip\nimport sys\n\nimport numpy as np\n\n\ndef main():\n parser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n parser.add_argument(\"input\")\n parser.add_argument(\"--gzip\", action=\"store_true\")\n args = parser.parse_args()\n\n def gopen():\n if args.gzip:\n return gzip.open(args.input, \"r\")\n else:\n return open(args.input, \"r\", encoding=\"utf-8\")\n\n num_lines = []\n num_toks = []\n with gopen() as h:\n num_docs = 1\n num_lines_in_doc = 0\n num_toks_in_doc = 0\n for i, line in enumerate(h):\n if len(line.strip()) == 0: # empty line indicates new document\n num_docs += 1\n num_lines.append(num_lines_in_doc)\n num_toks.append(num_toks_in_doc)\n num_lines_in_doc = 0\n num_toks_in_doc = 0\n else:\n num_lines_in_doc += 1\n num_toks_in_doc += len(line.rstrip().split())\n if i % 1000000 == 0:\n print(i, file=sys.stderr, end=\"\", flush=True)\n elif i % 100000 == 0:\n print(\".\", file=sys.stderr, end=\"\", flush=True)\n print(file=sys.stderr, flush=True)\n\n print(\"found {} docs\".format(num_docs))\n print(\"average num lines per doc: {}\".format(np.mean(num_lines)))\n print(\"average num toks per doc: {}\".format(np.mean(num_toks)))\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/scripts/read_binarized.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport argparse\n\nfrom fairseq.data import data_utils, Dictionary, indexed_dataset\n\n\ndef get_parser():\n parser = argparse.ArgumentParser(\n description=\"writes text from binarized file to stdout\"\n )\n # fmt: off\n parser.add_argument('--dataset-impl', help='dataset implementation',\n choices=indexed_dataset.get_available_dataset_impl())\n parser.add_argument('--dict', metavar='FP', help='dictionary containing known words', default=None)\n parser.add_argument('--input', metavar='FP', required=True, help='binarized file to read')\n # fmt: on\n\n return parser\n\n\ndef main():\n parser = get_parser()\n args = parser.parse_args()\n\n dictionary = Dictionary.load(args.dict) if args.dict is not None else None\n dataset = data_utils.load_indexed_dataset(\n args.input, dictionary, dataset_impl=args.dataset_impl, default=\"lazy\",\n )\n\n for tensor_line in dataset:\n if dictionary is None:\n line = \" \".join([str(int(x)) for x in tensor_line])\n else:\n line = dictionary.string(tensor_line)\n\n print(line)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/scripts/rm_pt.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport argparse\nimport os\nimport re\nimport shutil\nimport sys\n\n\npt_regexp = re.compile(r\"checkpoint(\\d+|_\\d+_\\d+|_[a-z]+)\\.pt\")\npt_regexp_epoch_based = re.compile(r\"checkpoint(\\d+)\\.pt\")\npt_regexp_update_based = re.compile(r\"checkpoint_\\d+_(\\d+)\\.pt\")\n\n\ndef parse_checkpoints(files):\n entries = []\n for f in files:\n m = pt_regexp_epoch_based.fullmatch(f)\n if m is not None:\n entries.append((int(m.group(1)), m.group(0)))\n else:\n m = pt_regexp_update_based.fullmatch(f)\n if m is not None:\n entries.append((int(m.group(1)), m.group(0)))\n return entries\n\n\ndef last_n_checkpoints(files, n):\n entries = parse_checkpoints(files)\n return [x[1] for x in sorted(entries, reverse=True)[:n]]\n\n\ndef every_n_checkpoints(files, n):\n entries = parse_checkpoints(files)\n return [x[1] for x in sorted(sorted(entries)[::-n])]\n\n\ndef main():\n parser = argparse.ArgumentParser(\n description=(\n \"Recursively delete checkpoint files from `root_dir`, \"\n \"but preserve checkpoint_best.pt and checkpoint_last.pt\"\n )\n )\n parser.add_argument(\"root_dirs\", nargs=\"*\")\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--save-last\", type=int, default=0, help=\"number of last checkpoints to save\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--save-every\", type=int, default=0, help=\"interval of checkpoints to save\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--preserve-test\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"preserve checkpoints in dirs that start with test_ prefix (default: delete them)\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--delete-best\", action=\"store_true\", help=\"delete checkpoint_best.pt\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--delete-last\", action=\"store_true\", help=\"delete checkpoint_last.pt\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--no-dereference\", action=\"store_true\", help=\"don't dereference symlinks\"\n )\n args = parser.parse_args()\n\n files_to_desymlink = []\n files_to_preserve = []\n files_to_delete = []\n for root_dir in args.root_dirs:\n for root, _subdirs, files in os.walk(root_dir):\n if args.save_last > 0:\n to_save = last_n_checkpoints(files, args.save_last)\n else:\n to_save = []\n if args.save_every > 0:\n to_save += every_n_checkpoints(files, args.save_every)\n for file in files:\n if not pt_regexp.fullmatch(file):\n continue\n full_path = os.path.join(root, file)\n if (\n not os.path.basename(root).startswith(\"test_\") or args.preserve_test\n ) and (\n (file == \"checkpoint_last.pt\" and not args.delete_last)\n or (file == \"checkpoint_best.pt\" and not args.delete_best)\n or file in to_save\n ):\n if os.path.islink(full_path) and not args.no_dereference:\n files_to_desymlink.append(full_path)\n else:\n files_to_preserve.append(full_path)\n else:\n files_to_delete.append(full_path)\n\n if len(files_to_desymlink) == 0 and len(files_to_delete) == 0:\n print(\"Nothing to do.\")\n sys.exit(0)\n\n files_to_desymlink = sorted(files_to_desymlink)\n files_to_preserve = sorted(files_to_preserve)\n files_to_delete = sorted(files_to_delete)\n\n print(\"Operations to perform (in order):\")\n if len(files_to_desymlink) > 0:\n for file in files_to_desymlink:\n print(\" - preserve (and dereference symlink): \" + file)\n if len(files_to_preserve) > 0:\n for file in files_to_preserve:\n print(\" - preserve: \" + file)\n if len(files_to_delete) > 0:\n for file in files_to_delete:\n print(\" - delete: \" + file)\n while True:\n resp = input(\"Continue? (Y/N): \")\n if resp.strip().lower() == \"y\":\n break\n elif resp.strip().lower() == \"n\":\n sys.exit(0)\n\n print(\"Executing...\")\n if len(files_to_desymlink) > 0:\n for file in files_to_desymlink:\n realpath = os.path.realpath(file)\n print(\"rm \" + file)\n os.remove(file)\n print(\"cp {} {}\".format(realpath, file))\n shutil.copyfile(realpath, file)\n if len(files_to_delete) > 0:\n for file in files_to_delete:\n print(\"rm \" + file)\n os.remove(file)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/scripts/sacrebleu_pregen.sh", "content": "#!/bin/bash\n\nif [ $# -ne 4 ]; then\n echo \"usage: $0 TESTSET SRCLANG TGTLANG GEN\"\n exit 1\nfi\n\nTESTSET=$1\nSRCLANG=$2\nTGTLANG=$3\n\nGEN=$4\n\necho 'Cloning Moses github repository (for tokenization scripts)...'\ngit clone https://github.com/moses-smt/mosesdecoder.git\n\nSCRIPTS=mosesdecoder/scripts\nDETOKENIZER=$SCRIPTS/tokenizer/detokenizer.perl\n\ngrep ^H $GEN \\\n| sed 's/^H\\-//' \\\n| sort -n -k 1 \\\n| cut -f 3 \\\n| perl $DETOKENIZER -l $TGTLANG \\\n| sed \"s/ - /-/g\" \\\n> $GEN.sorted.detok\n\nsacrebleu --test-set $TESTSET --language-pair \"${SRCLANG}-${TGTLANG}\" < $GEN.sorted.detok\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/scripts/shard_docs.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\"\"\"\nSplit a large file into shards while respecting document boundaries. Documents\nshould be separated by a single empty line.\n\"\"\"\n\nimport argparse\nimport contextlib\n\n\ndef main():\n parser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n parser.add_argument(\"input\")\n parser.add_argument(\"--num-shards\", type=int)\n args = parser.parse_args()\n\n assert args.num_shards is not None and args.num_shards > 1\n\n with open(args.input, \"r\", encoding=\"utf-8\") as h:\n with contextlib.ExitStack() as stack:\n outputs = [\n stack.enter_context(\n open(args.input + \".shard\" + str(i), \"w\", encoding=\"utf-8\")\n )\n for i in range(args.num_shards)\n ]\n\n doc = []\n first_doc = [True] * args.num_shards\n\n def output_doc(i):\n if not first_doc[i]:\n outputs[i].write(\"\\n\")\n first_doc[i] = False\n for line in doc:\n outputs[i].write(line)\n doc.clear()\n\n num_docs = 0\n for line in h:\n if line.strip() == \"\": # empty line indicates new document\n output_doc(num_docs % args.num_shards)\n num_docs += 1\n else:\n doc.append(line)\n output_doc(num_docs % args.num_shards)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/scripts/split_train_valid_docs.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\"\"\"\nSplit a large file into a train and valid set while respecting document\nboundaries. Documents should be separated by a single empty line.\n\"\"\"\n\nimport argparse\nimport random\nimport sys\n\n\ndef main():\n parser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n parser.add_argument(\"input\")\n parser.add_argument(\"sample_output\", help=\"train output file\")\n parser.add_argument(\"remainder_output\", help=\"valid output file\")\n parser.add_argument(\"-k\", type=int, help=\"remainder size\")\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--lines\", action=\"store_true\", help=\"split lines instead of docs\"\n )\n args = parser.parse_args()\n\n assert args.k is not None\n\n sample = []\n remainder = []\n num_docs = [0]\n\n def update_sample(doc):\n if len(sample) < args.k:\n sample.append(doc.copy())\n else:\n i = num_docs[0]\n j = random.randrange(i + 1)\n if j < args.k:\n remainder.append(sample[j])\n sample[j] = doc.copy()\n else:\n remainder.append(doc.copy())\n num_docs[0] += 1\n doc.clear()\n\n with open(args.input, \"r\", encoding=\"utf-8\") as h:\n doc = []\n for i, line in enumerate(h):\n if line.strip() == \"\": # empty line indicates new document\n update_sample(doc)\n else:\n doc.append(line)\n if args.lines:\n update_sample(doc)\n if i % 1000000 == 0:\n print(i, file=sys.stderr, end=\"\", flush=True)\n elif i % 100000 == 0:\n print(\".\", file=sys.stderr, end=\"\", flush=True)\n if len(doc) > 0:\n update_sample(doc)\n print(file=sys.stderr, flush=True)\n\n assert len(sample) == args.k\n\n with open(args.sample_output, \"w\", encoding=\"utf-8\") as out:\n first = True\n for doc in sample:\n if not first and not args.lines:\n out.write(\"\\n\")\n first = False\n for line in doc:\n out.write(line)\n\n with open(args.remainder_output, \"w\", encoding=\"utf-8\") as out:\n first = True\n for doc in remainder:\n if not first and not args.lines:\n out.write(\"\\n\")\n first = False\n for line in doc:\n out.write(line)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/scripts/spm_decode.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n# All rights reserved.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom __future__ import absolute_import, division, print_function, unicode_literals\n\nimport argparse\n\nimport sentencepiece as spm\n\n\ndef main():\n parser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--model\", required=True, help=\"sentencepiece model to use for decoding\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\"--input\", required=True, help=\"input file to decode\")\n parser.add_argument(\"--input_format\", choices=[\"piece\", \"id\"], default=\"piece\")\n args = parser.parse_args()\n\n sp = spm.SentencePieceProcessor()\n sp.Load(args.model)\n\n if args.input_format == \"piece\":\n\n def decode(l):\n return \"\".join(sp.DecodePieces(l))\n\n elif args.input_format == \"id\":\n\n def decode(l):\n return \"\".join(sp.DecodeIds(l))\n\n else:\n raise NotImplementedError\n\n def tok2int(tok):\n # remap reference-side <unk> (represented as <<unk>>) to 0\n return int(tok) if tok != \"<<unk>>\" else 0\n\n with open(args.input, \"r\", encoding=\"utf-8\") as h:\n for line in h:\n print(decode(list(map(tok2int, line.rstrip().split()))))\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/scripts/spm_encode.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n# All rights reserved.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom __future__ import absolute_import, division, print_function, unicode_literals\n\nimport argparse\nimport contextlib\nimport sys\n\nimport sentencepiece as spm\n\n\ndef main():\n parser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--model\", required=True, help=\"sentencepiece model to use for encoding\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--inputs\", nargs=\"+\", default=[\"-\"], help=\"input files to filter/encode\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--outputs\", nargs=\"+\", default=[\"-\"], help=\"path to save encoded outputs\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\"--output_format\", choices=[\"piece\", \"id\"], default=\"piece\")\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--min-len\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"filter sentence pairs with fewer than N tokens\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--max-len\",\n type=int,\n metavar=\"N\",\n help=\"filter sentence pairs with more than N tokens\",\n )\n args = parser.parse_args()\n\n assert len(args.inputs) == len(\n args.outputs\n ), \"number of input and output paths should match\"\n\n sp = spm.SentencePieceProcessor()\n sp.Load(args.model)\n\n if args.output_format == \"piece\":\n\n def encode(l):\n return sp.EncodeAsPieces(l)\n\n elif args.output_format == \"id\":\n\n def encode(l):\n return list(map(str, sp.EncodeAsIds(l)))\n\n else:\n raise NotImplementedError\n\n if args.min_len is not None or args.max_len is not None:\n\n def valid(line):\n return (args.min_len is None or len(line) >= args.min_len) and (\n args.max_len is None or len(line) <= args.max_len\n )\n\n else:\n\n def valid(lines):\n return True\n\n with contextlib.ExitStack() as stack:\n inputs = [\n stack.enter_context(open(input, \"r\", encoding=\"utf-8\"))\n if input != \"-\"\n else sys.stdin\n for input in args.inputs\n ]\n outputs = [\n stack.enter_context(open(output, \"w\", encoding=\"utf-8\"))\n if output != \"-\"\n else sys.stdout\n for output in args.outputs\n ]\n\n stats = {\n \"num_empty\": 0,\n \"num_filtered\": 0,\n }\n\n def encode_line(line):\n line = line.strip()\n if len(line) > 0:\n line = encode(line)\n if valid(line):\n return line\n else:\n stats[\"num_filtered\"] += 1\n else:\n stats[\"num_empty\"] += 1\n return None\n\n for i, lines in enumerate(zip(*inputs), start=1):\n enc_lines = list(map(encode_line, lines))\n if not any(enc_line is None for enc_line in enc_lines):\n for enc_line, output_h in zip(enc_lines, outputs):\n print(\" \".join(enc_line), file=output_h)\n if i % 10000 == 0:\n print(\"processed {} lines\".format(i), file=sys.stderr)\n\n print(\"skipped {} empty lines\".format(stats[\"num_empty\"]), file=sys.stderr)\n print(\"filtered {} lines\".format(stats[\"num_filtered\"]), file=sys.stderr)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/scripts/spm_train.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n# All rights reserved.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom __future__ import absolute_import, division, print_function, unicode_literals\n\nimport sys\n\nimport sentencepiece as spm\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n spm.SentencePieceTrainer.Train(\" \".join(sys.argv[1:]))\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/scripts/wav2vec_featurize.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\n\"\"\"\nHelper script to pre-compute embeddings for a wav2letter++ dataset\n\"\"\"\n\nimport argparse\nimport glob\nimport os\nfrom shutil import copy\n\nimport h5py\nimport soundfile as sf\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\nimport tqdm\n\nfrom fairseq.models.wav2vec import Wav2VecModel\n\n\ndef read_audio(fname):\n \"\"\" Load an audio file and return PCM along with the sample rate \"\"\"\n\n wav, sr = sf.read(fname)\n assert sr == 16e3\n\n return wav, 16e3\n\n\nclass PretrainedWav2VecModel(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, fname):\n super().__init__()\n\n checkpoint = torch.load(fname)\n self.args = checkpoint[\"args\"]\n model = Wav2VecModel.build_model(self.args, None)\n model.load_state_dict(checkpoint[\"model\"])\n model.eval()\n\n self.model = model\n\n def forward(self, x):\n with torch.no_grad():\n z = self.model.feature_extractor(x)\n if isinstance(z, tuple):\n z = z[0]\n c = self.model.feature_aggregator(z)\n return z, c\n\n\nclass EmbeddingWriterConfig(argparse.ArgumentParser):\n def __init__(self):\n super().__init__(\"Pre-compute embeddings for wav2letter++ datasets\")\n\n kwargs = {\"action\": \"store\", \"type\": str, \"required\": True}\n\n self.add_argument(\"--input\", \"-i\", help=\"Input Directory\", **kwargs)\n self.add_argument(\"--output\", \"-o\", help=\"Output Directory\", **kwargs)\n self.add_argument(\"--model\", help=\"Path to model checkpoint\", **kwargs)\n self.add_argument(\"--split\", help=\"Dataset Splits\", nargs=\"+\", **kwargs)\n self.add_argument(\n \"--ext\", default=\"wav\", required=False, help=\"Audio file extension\"\n )\n\n self.add_argument(\n \"--no-copy-labels\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"Do not copy label files. Useful for large datasets, use --targetdir in wav2letter then.\",\n )\n self.add_argument(\n \"--use-feat\",\n action=\"store_true\",\n help=\"Use the feature vector ('z') instead of context vector ('c') for features\",\n )\n self.add_argument(\"--gpu\", help=\"GPU to use\", default=0, type=int)\n\n\nclass Prediction:\n \"\"\" Lightweight wrapper around a fairspeech embedding model \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, fname, gpu=0):\n self.gpu = gpu\n self.model = PretrainedWav2VecModel(fname).cuda(gpu)\n\n def __call__(self, x):\n x = torch.from_numpy(x).float().cuda(self.gpu)\n with torch.no_grad():\n z, c = self.model(x.unsqueeze(0))\n\n return z.squeeze(0).cpu().numpy(), c.squeeze(0).cpu().numpy()\n\n\nclass H5Writer:\n \"\"\" Write features as hdf5 file in wav2letter++ compatible format \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, fname):\n self.fname = fname\n os.makedirs(os.path.dirname(self.fname), exist_ok=True)\n\n def write(self, data):\n channel, T = data.shape\n\n with h5py.File(self.fname, \"w\") as out_ds:\n data = data.T.flatten()\n out_ds[\"features\"] = data\n out_ds[\"info\"] = np.array([16e3 // 160, T, channel])\n\n\nclass EmbeddingDatasetWriter(object):\n \"\"\" Given a model and a wav2letter++ dataset, pre-compute and store embeddings\n\n Args:\n input_root, str :\n Path to the wav2letter++ dataset\n output_root, str :\n Desired output directory. Will be created if non-existent\n split, str :\n Dataset split\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(\n self,\n input_root,\n output_root,\n split,\n model_fname,\n extension=\"wav\",\n gpu=0,\n verbose=False,\n use_feat=False,\n ):\n\n assert os.path.exists(model_fname)\n\n self.model_fname = model_fname\n self.model = Prediction(self.model_fname, gpu)\n\n self.input_root = input_root\n self.output_root = output_root\n self.split = split\n self.verbose = verbose\n self.extension = extension\n self.use_feat = use_feat\n\n assert os.path.exists(self.input_path), \"Input path '{}' does not exist\".format(\n self.input_path\n )\n\n def _progress(self, iterable, **kwargs):\n if self.verbose:\n return tqdm.tqdm(iterable, **kwargs)\n return iterable\n\n def require_output_path(self, fname=None):\n path = self.get_output_path(fname)\n os.makedirs(path, exist_ok=True)\n\n @property\n def input_path(self):\n return self.get_input_path()\n\n @property\n def output_path(self):\n return self.get_output_path()\n\n def get_input_path(self, fname=None):\n if fname is None:\n return os.path.join(self.input_root, self.split)\n return os.path.join(self.get_input_path(), fname)\n\n def get_output_path(self, fname=None):\n if fname is None:\n return os.path.join(self.output_root, self.split)\n return os.path.join(self.get_output_path(), fname)\n\n def copy_labels(self):\n self.require_output_path()\n\n labels = list(\n filter(\n lambda x: self.extension not in x, glob.glob(self.get_input_path(\"*\"))\n )\n )\n for fname in tqdm.tqdm(labels):\n copy(fname, self.output_path)\n\n @property\n def input_fnames(self):\n return sorted(glob.glob(self.get_input_path(\"*.{}\".format(self.extension))))\n\n def __len__(self):\n return len(self.input_fnames)\n\n def write_features(self):\n\n paths = self.input_fnames\n\n fnames_context = map(\n lambda x: os.path.join(\n self.output_path, x.replace(\".\" + self.extension, \".h5context\")\n ),\n map(os.path.basename, paths),\n )\n\n for name, target_fname in self._progress(\n zip(paths, fnames_context), total=len(self)\n ):\n wav, sr = read_audio(name)\n z, c = self.model(wav)\n feat = z if self.use_feat else c\n writer = H5Writer(target_fname)\n writer.write(feat)\n\n def __repr__(self):\n\n return \"EmbeddingDatasetWriter ({n_files} files)\\n\\tinput:\\t{input_root}\\n\\toutput:\\t{output_root}\\n\\tsplit:\\t{split})\".format(\n n_files=len(self), **self.__dict__\n )\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n\n args = EmbeddingWriterConfig().parse_args()\n\n for split in args.split:\n\n writer = EmbeddingDatasetWriter(\n input_root=args.input,\n output_root=args.output,\n split=split,\n model_fname=args.model,\n gpu=args.gpu,\n extension=args.ext,\n use_feat=args.use_feat,\n )\n\n print(writer)\n writer.require_output_path()\n\n print(\"Writing Features...\")\n writer.write_features()\n print(\"Done.\")\n\n if not args.no_copy_labels:\n print(\"Copying label data...\")\n writer.copy_labels()\n print(\"Done.\")\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/scripts/wav2vec_manifest.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\"\"\"\nData pre-processing: build vocabularies and binarize training data.\n\"\"\"\n\nimport argparse\nimport glob\nimport os\nimport soundfile\nimport random\n\n\ndef get_parser():\n parser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n parser.add_argument(\n \"root\", metavar=\"DIR\", help=\"root directory containing flac files to index\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--valid-percent\",\n default=0.01,\n type=float,\n metavar=\"D\",\n help=\"percentage of data to use as validation set (between 0 and 1)\",\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--dest\", default=\".\", type=str, metavar=\"DIR\", help=\"output directory\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--ext\", default=\"flac\", type=str, metavar=\"EXT\", help=\"extension to look for\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\"--seed\", default=42, type=int, metavar=\"N\", help=\"random seed\")\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--path-must-contain\",\n default=None,\n type=str,\n metavar=\"FRAG\",\n help=\"if set, path must contain this substring for a file to be included in the manifest\",\n )\n return parser\n\n\ndef main(args):\n assert args.valid_percent >= 0 and args.valid_percent <= 1.0\n\n dir_path = os.path.realpath(args.root)\n search_path = os.path.join(dir_path, \"**/*.\" + args.ext)\n rand = random.Random(args.seed)\n\n with open(os.path.join(args.dest, \"train.tsv\"), \"w\") as train_f, open(\n os.path.join(args.dest, \"valid.tsv\"), \"w\"\n ) as valid_f:\n print(dir_path, file=train_f)\n print(dir_path, file=valid_f)\n\n for fname in glob.iglob(search_path, recursive=True):\n file_path = os.path.realpath(fname)\n\n if args.path_must_contain and args.path_must_contain not in file_path:\n continue\n\n frames = soundfile.info(fname).frames\n dest = train_f if rand.random() > args.valid_percent else valid_f\n print(\n \"{}\\t{}\".format(os.path.relpath(file_path, dir_path), frames), file=dest\n )\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n parser = get_parser()\n args = parser.parse_args()\n main(args)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/setup.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport os\nfrom setuptools import setup, find_packages, Extension\nimport sys\n\n\nif sys.version_info < (3, 5):\n sys.exit(\"Sorry, Python >=3.5 is required for fairseq.\")\n\n\nwith open(\"README.md\") as f:\n readme = f.read()\n\n\nif sys.platform == \"darwin\":\n extra_compile_args = [\"-stdlib=libc++\", \"-O3\"]\nelse:\n extra_compile_args = [\"-std=c++11\", \"-O3\"]\n\n\nclass NumpyExtension(Extension):\n \"\"\"Source: https://stackoverflow.com/a/54128391\"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, *args, **kwargs):\n self.__include_dirs = []\n super().__init__(*args, **kwargs)\n\n @property\n def include_dirs(self):\n import numpy\n\n return self.__include_dirs + [numpy.get_include()]\n\n @include_dirs.setter\n def include_dirs(self, dirs):\n self.__include_dirs = dirs\n\n\nextensions = [\n Extension(\n \"fairseq.libbleu\",\n sources=[\n \"fairseq/clib/libbleu/libbleu.cpp\",\n \"fairseq/clib/libbleu/module.cpp\",\n ],\n extra_compile_args=extra_compile_args,\n ),\n NumpyExtension(\n \"fairseq.data.data_utils_fast\",\n sources=[\"fairseq/data/data_utils_fast.pyx\"],\n language=\"c++\",\n extra_compile_args=extra_compile_args,\n ),\n NumpyExtension(\n \"fairseq.data.token_block_utils_fast\",\n sources=[\"fairseq/data/token_block_utils_fast.pyx\"],\n language=\"c++\",\n extra_compile_args=extra_compile_args,\n ),\n]\n\n\ncmdclass = {}\n\n\ntry:\n # torch is not available when generating docs\n from torch.utils import cpp_extension\n\n extensions.extend(\n [\n cpp_extension.CppExtension(\n \"fairseq.libnat\", sources=[\"fairseq/clib/libnat/edit_dist.cpp\",],\n ),\n ]\n )\n cmdclass[\"build_ext\"] = cpp_extension.BuildExtension\nexcept ImportError:\n pass\n\n\nif \"READTHEDOCS\" in os.environ:\n # don't build extensions when generating docs\n extensions = []\n if \"build_ext\" in cmdclass:\n del cmdclass[\"build_ext\"]\n\n # use CPU build of PyTorch\n dependency_links = [\n \"https://download.pytorch.org/whl/cpu/torch-1.3.0%2Bcpu-cp36-cp36m-linux_x86_64.whl\"\n ]\nelse:\n dependency_links = []\n\n\nif \"clean\" in sys.argv[1:]:\n # Source: https://bit.ly/2NLVsgE\n print(\"deleting Cython files...\")\n import subprocess\n\n subprocess.run([\"rm -f fairseq/*.so fairseq/**/*.so\"], shell=True)\n\n\nif \"test\" in sys.argv[1:]:\n try:\n import fairseq.data.token_block_utils_fast\n except (ImportError, ModuleNotFoundError):\n raise Exception(\n \"Please install Cython components with `python setup.py build_ext --inplace`\"\n \"before running unit tests.\"\n )\n\n\nsetup(\n name=\"fairseq\",\n version=\"0.9.0\",\n description=\"Facebook AI Research Sequence-to-Sequence Toolkit\",\n url=\"https://github.com/pytorch/fairseq\",\n classifiers=[\n \"Intended Audience :: Science/Research\",\n \"License :: OSI Approved :: MIT License\",\n \"Programming Language :: Python :: 3.5\",\n \"Programming Language :: Python :: 3.6\",\n \"Topic :: Scientific/Engineering :: Artificial Intelligence\",\n ],\n long_description=readme,\n long_description_content_type=\"text/markdown\",\n setup_requires=[\"cython\", \"numpy\", \"setuptools>=18.0\",],\n install_requires=[\n \"cffi\",\n \"cython\",\n \"numpy\",\n \"regex\",\n \"sacrebleu\",\n \"torch\",\n \"tqdm\",\n ],\n dependency_links=dependency_links,\n packages=find_packages(exclude=[\"scripts\", \"tests\"]),\n ext_modules=extensions,\n test_suite=\"tests\",\n entry_points={\n \"console_scripts\": [\n \"fairseq-eval-lm = fairseq_cli.eval_lm:cli_main\",\n \"fairseq-generate = fairseq_cli.generate:cli_main\",\n \"fairseq-interactive = fairseq_cli.interactive:cli_main\",\n \"fairseq-preprocess = fairseq_cli.preprocess:cli_main\",\n \"fairseq-score = fairseq_cli.score:main\",\n \"fairseq-train = fairseq_cli.train:cli_main\",\n \"fairseq-validate = fairseq_cli.validate:cli_main\",\n ],\n },\n cmdclass=cmdclass,\n zip_safe=False,\n)\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/tests/__init__.py", "content": "" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/tests/speech_recognition/__init__.py", "content": "" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/tests/speech_recognition/asr_test_base.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3\n\nimport argparse\nimport os\nimport unittest\nfrom inspect import currentframe, getframeinfo\n\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nfrom fairseq.data import data_utils as fairseq_data_utils\nfrom fairseq.data.dictionary import Dictionary\nfrom fairseq.models import (\n BaseFairseqModel,\n FairseqDecoder,\n FairseqEncoder,\n FairseqEncoderDecoderModel,\n FairseqEncoderModel,\n FairseqModel,\n)\nfrom fairseq.tasks.fairseq_task import FairseqTask\nfrom examples.speech_recognition.data.data_utils import lengths_to_encoder_padding_mask\n\n\nDEFAULT_TEST_VOCAB_SIZE = 100\n\n\n# ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////\n# utility function to setup dummy dict/task/input\n# ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////\n\n\ndef get_dummy_dictionary(vocab_size=DEFAULT_TEST_VOCAB_SIZE):\n dummy_dict = Dictionary()\n # add dummy symbol to satisfy vocab size\n for id, _ in enumerate(range(vocab_size)):\n dummy_dict.add_symbol(\"{}\".format(id), 1000)\n return dummy_dict\n\n\nclass DummyTask(FairseqTask):\n def __init__(self, args):\n super().__init__(args)\n self.dictionary = get_dummy_dictionary()\n if getattr(self.args, \"ctc\", False):\n self.dictionary.add_symbol(\"<ctc_blank>\")\n self.tgt_dict = self.dictionary\n\n @property\n def target_dictionary(self):\n return self.dictionary\n\n\ndef get_dummy_task_and_parser():\n \"\"\"\n to build a fariseq model, we need some dummy parse and task. This function\n is used to create dummy task and parser to faciliate model/criterion test\n\n Note: we use FbSpeechRecognitionTask as the dummy task. You may want\n to use other task by providing another function\n \"\"\"\n parser = argparse.ArgumentParser(\n description=\"test_dummy_s2s_task\", argument_default=argparse.SUPPRESS\n )\n DummyTask.add_args(parser)\n args = parser.parse_args([])\n task = DummyTask.setup_task(args)\n return task, parser\n\n\ndef get_dummy_input(T=100, D=80, B=5, K=100):\n forward_input = {}\n # T max sequence length\n # D feature vector dimension\n # B batch size\n # K target dimension size\n feature = torch.randn(B, T, D)\n # this (B, T, D) layout is just a convention, you can override it by\n # write your own _prepare_forward_input function\n src_lengths = torch.from_numpy(\n np.random.randint(low=1, high=T, size=B).astype(np.int64)\n )\n src_lengths[0] = T # make sure the maximum length matches\n prev_output_tokens = []\n for b in range(B):\n token_length = np.random.randint(low=1, high=src_lengths[b].item() + 1)\n tokens = np.random.randint(low=0, high=K, size=token_length)\n prev_output_tokens.append(torch.from_numpy(tokens))\n\n prev_output_tokens = fairseq_data_utils.collate_tokens(\n prev_output_tokens,\n pad_idx=1,\n eos_idx=2,\n left_pad=False,\n move_eos_to_beginning=False,\n )\n src_lengths, sorted_order = src_lengths.sort(descending=True)\n forward_input[\"src_tokens\"] = feature.index_select(0, sorted_order)\n forward_input[\"src_lengths\"] = src_lengths\n forward_input[\"prev_output_tokens\"] = prev_output_tokens\n\n return forward_input\n\n\ndef get_dummy_encoder_output(encoder_out_shape=(100, 80, 5)):\n \"\"\"\n This only provides an example to generate dummy encoder output\n \"\"\"\n (T, B, D) = encoder_out_shape\n encoder_out = {}\n\n encoder_out[\"encoder_out\"] = torch.from_numpy(\n np.random.randn(*encoder_out_shape).astype(np.float32)\n )\n seq_lengths = torch.from_numpy(np.random.randint(low=1, high=T, size=B))\n # some dummy mask\n encoder_out[\"encoder_padding_mask\"] = torch.arange(T).view(1, T).expand(\n B, -1\n ) >= seq_lengths.view(B, 1).expand(-1, T)\n encoder_out[\"encoder_padding_mask\"].t_()\n\n # encoer_padding_mask is (T, B) tensor, with (t, b)-th element indicate\n # whether encoder_out[t, b] is valid (=0) or not (=1)\n return encoder_out\n\n\ndef _current_postion_info():\n cf = currentframe()\n frameinfo = \" (at {}:{})\".format(\n os.path.basename(getframeinfo(cf).filename), cf.f_back.f_lineno\n )\n return frameinfo\n\n\ndef check_encoder_output(encoder_output, batch_size=None):\n \"\"\"we expect encoder_output to be a dict with the following\n key/value pairs:\n - encoder_out: a Torch.Tensor\n - encoder_padding_mask: a binary Torch.Tensor\n \"\"\"\n if not isinstance(encoder_output, dict):\n msg = (\n \"FairseqEncoderModel.forward(...) must be a dict\" + _current_postion_info()\n )\n return False, msg\n\n if \"encoder_out\" not in encoder_output:\n msg = (\n \"FairseqEncoderModel.forward(...) must contain encoder_out\"\n + _current_postion_info()\n )\n return False, msg\n\n if \"encoder_padding_mask\" not in encoder_output:\n msg = (\n \"FairseqEncoderModel.forward(...) must contain encoder_padding_mask\"\n + _current_postion_info()\n )\n return False, msg\n\n if not isinstance(encoder_output[\"encoder_out\"], torch.Tensor):\n msg = \"encoder_out must be a torch.Tensor\" + _current_postion_info()\n return False, msg\n\n if encoder_output[\"encoder_out\"].dtype != torch.float32:\n msg = \"encoder_out must have float32 dtype\" + _current_postion_info()\n return False, msg\n\n mask = encoder_output[\"encoder_padding_mask\"]\n if mask is not None:\n if not isinstance(mask, torch.Tensor):\n msg = (\n \"encoder_padding_mask must be a torch.Tensor\" + _current_postion_info()\n )\n return False, msg\n if mask.dtype != torch.uint8 and (\n not hasattr(torch, \"bool\") or mask.dtype != torch.bool\n ):\n msg = (\n \"encoder_padding_mask must have dtype of uint8\"\n + _current_postion_info()\n )\n return False, msg\n\n if mask.dim() != 2:\n msg = (\n \"we expect encoder_padding_mask to be a 2-d tensor, in shape (T, B)\"\n + _current_postion_info()\n )\n return False, msg\n\n if batch_size is not None and mask.size(1) != batch_size:\n msg = (\n \"we expect encoder_padding_mask to be a 2-d tensor, with size(1)\"\n + \" being the batch size\"\n + _current_postion_info()\n )\n return False, msg\n return True, None\n\n\ndef check_decoder_output(decoder_output):\n \"\"\"we expect output from a decoder is a tuple with the following constraint:\n - the first element is a torch.Tensor\n - the second element can be anything (reserved for future use)\n \"\"\"\n if not isinstance(decoder_output, tuple):\n msg = \"FariseqDecoder output must be a tuple\" + _current_postion_info()\n return False, msg\n\n if len(decoder_output) != 2:\n msg = \"FairseqDecoder output must be 2-elem tuple\" + _current_postion_info()\n return False, msg\n\n if not isinstance(decoder_output[0], torch.Tensor):\n msg = (\n \"FariseqDecoder output[0] must be a torch.Tensor\" + _current_postion_info()\n )\n return False, msg\n\n return True, None\n\n\n# ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////\n# Base Test class\n# ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////\n\n\nclass TestBaseFairseqModelBase(unittest.TestCase):\n \"\"\"\n This class is used to facilitate writing unittest for any class derived from\n `BaseFairseqModel`.\n \"\"\"\n\n @classmethod\n def setUpClass(cls):\n if cls is TestBaseFairseqModelBase:\n raise unittest.SkipTest(\"Skipping test case in base\")\n super().setUpClass()\n\n def setUpModel(self, model):\n self.assertTrue(isinstance(model, BaseFairseqModel))\n self.model = model\n\n def setupInput(self):\n pass\n\n def setUp(self):\n self.model = None\n self.forward_input = None\n pass\n\n\nclass TestFairseqEncoderDecoderModelBase(TestBaseFairseqModelBase):\n \"\"\"\n base code to test FairseqEncoderDecoderModel (formally known as\n `FairseqModel`) must be derived from this base class\n \"\"\"\n\n @classmethod\n def setUpClass(cls):\n if cls is TestFairseqEncoderDecoderModelBase:\n raise unittest.SkipTest(\"Skipping test case in base\")\n super().setUpClass()\n\n def setUpModel(self, model_cls, extra_args_setters=None):\n self.assertTrue(\n issubclass(model_cls, (FairseqEncoderDecoderModel, FairseqModel)),\n msg=\"This class only tests for FairseqModel subclasses\",\n )\n\n task, parser = get_dummy_task_and_parser()\n model_cls.add_args(parser)\n\n args = parser.parse_args([])\n if extra_args_setters is not None:\n for args_setter in extra_args_setters:\n args_setter(args)\n model = model_cls.build_model(args, task)\n self.model = model\n\n def setUpInput(self, input=None):\n self.forward_input = get_dummy_input() if input is None else input\n\n def setUp(self):\n super().setUp()\n\n def test_forward(self):\n if self.model and self.forward_input:\n forward_output = self.model.forward(**self.forward_input)\n # for FairseqEncoderDecoderModel, forward returns a tuple of two\n # elements, the first one is a Torch.Tensor\n succ, msg = check_decoder_output(forward_output)\n if not succ:\n self.assertTrue(succ, msg=msg)\n self.forward_output = forward_output\n\n def test_get_normalized_probs(self):\n if self.model and self.forward_input:\n forward_output = self.model.forward(**self.forward_input)\n logprob = self.model.get_normalized_probs(forward_output, log_probs=True)\n prob = self.model.get_normalized_probs(forward_output, log_probs=False)\n\n # in order for different models/criterion to play with each other\n # we need to know whether the logprob or prob output is batch_first\n # or not. We assume an additional attribute will be attached to logprob\n # or prob. If you find your code failed here, simply override\n # FairseqModel.get_normalized_probs, see example at\n # https://fburl.com/batch_first_example\n self.assertTrue(hasattr(logprob, \"batch_first\"))\n self.assertTrue(hasattr(prob, \"batch_first\"))\n\n self.assertTrue(torch.is_tensor(logprob))\n self.assertTrue(torch.is_tensor(prob))\n\n\nclass TestFairseqEncoderModelBase(TestBaseFairseqModelBase):\n \"\"\"\n base class to test FairseqEncoderModel\n \"\"\"\n\n @classmethod\n def setUpClass(cls):\n if cls is TestFairseqEncoderModelBase:\n raise unittest.SkipTest(\"Skipping test case in base\")\n super().setUpClass()\n\n def setUpModel(self, model_cls, extra_args_setters=None):\n self.assertTrue(\n issubclass(model_cls, FairseqEncoderModel),\n msg=\"This class is only used for testing FairseqEncoderModel\",\n )\n task, parser = get_dummy_task_and_parser()\n model_cls.add_args(parser)\n args = parser.parse_args([])\n if extra_args_setters is not None:\n for args_setter in extra_args_setters:\n args_setter(args)\n\n model = model_cls.build_model(args, task)\n self.model = model\n\n def setUpInput(self, input=None):\n self.forward_input = get_dummy_input() if input is None else input\n # get_dummy_input() is originally for s2s, here we delete extra dict\n # items, so it can be used for EncoderModel / Encoder as well\n self.forward_input.pop(\"prev_output_tokens\", None)\n\n def setUp(self):\n super().setUp()\n\n def test_forward(self):\n if self.forward_input and self.model:\n bsz = self.forward_input[\"src_tokens\"].size(0)\n forward_output = self.model.forward(**self.forward_input)\n\n # we expect forward_output to be a dict with the following\n # key/value pairs:\n # - encoder_out: a Torch.Tensor\n # - encoder_padding_mask: a binary Torch.Tensor\n succ, msg = check_encoder_output(forward_output, batch_size=bsz)\n if not succ:\n self.assertTrue(succ, msg=msg)\n self.forward_output = forward_output\n\n def test_get_normalized_probs(self):\n if self.model and self.forward_input:\n forward_output = self.model.forward(**self.forward_input)\n logprob = self.model.get_normalized_probs(forward_output, log_probs=True)\n prob = self.model.get_normalized_probs(forward_output, log_probs=False)\n\n # in order for different models/criterion to play with each other\n # we need to know whether the logprob or prob output is batch_first\n # or not. We assume an additional attribute will be attached to logprob\n # or prob. If you find your code failed here, simply override\n # FairseqModel.get_normalized_probs, see example at\n # https://fburl.com/batch_first_example\n self.assertTrue(hasattr(logprob, \"batch_first\"))\n self.assertTrue(hasattr(prob, \"batch_first\"))\n\n self.assertTrue(torch.is_tensor(logprob))\n self.assertTrue(torch.is_tensor(prob))\n\n\nclass TestFairseqEncoderBase(unittest.TestCase):\n \"\"\"\n base class to test FairseqEncoder\n \"\"\"\n\n @classmethod\n def setUpClass(cls):\n if cls is TestFairseqEncoderBase:\n raise unittest.SkipTest(\"Skipping test case in base\")\n super().setUpClass()\n\n def setUpEncoder(self, encoder):\n self.assertTrue(\n isinstance(encoder, FairseqEncoder),\n msg=\"This class is only used for test FairseqEncoder\",\n )\n self.encoder = encoder\n\n def setUpInput(self, input=None):\n self.forward_input = get_dummy_input() if input is None else input\n # get_dummy_input() is originally for s2s, here we delete extra dict\n # items, so it can be used for EncoderModel / Encoder as well\n self.forward_input.pop(\"prev_output_tokens\", None)\n\n def setUp(self):\n self.encoder = None\n self.forward_input = None\n\n def test_forward(self):\n if self.encoder and self.forward_input:\n bsz = self.forward_input[\"src_tokens\"].size(0)\n\n forward_output = self.encoder.forward(**self.forward_input)\n succ, msg = check_encoder_output(forward_output, batch_size=bsz)\n if not succ:\n self.assertTrue(succ, msg=msg)\n self.forward_output = forward_output\n\n\nclass TestFairseqDecoderBase(unittest.TestCase):\n \"\"\"\n base class to test FairseqDecoder\n \"\"\"\n\n @classmethod\n def setUpClass(cls):\n if cls is TestFairseqDecoderBase:\n raise unittest.SkipTest(\"Skipping test case in base\")\n super().setUpClass()\n\n def setUpDecoder(self, decoder):\n self.assertTrue(\n isinstance(decoder, FairseqDecoder),\n msg=\"This class is only used for test FairseqDecoder\",\n )\n self.decoder = decoder\n\n def setUpInput(self, input=None):\n self.forward_input = get_dummy_encoder_output() if input is None else input\n\n def setUpPrevOutputTokens(self, tokens=None):\n if tokens is None:\n self.encoder_input = get_dummy_input()\n self.prev_output_tokens = self.encoder_input[\"prev_output_tokens\"]\n else:\n self.prev_output_tokens = tokens\n\n def setUp(self):\n self.decoder = None\n self.forward_input = None\n self.prev_output_tokens = None\n\n def test_forward(self):\n if (\n self.decoder is not None\n and self.forward_input is not None\n and self.prev_output_tokens is not None\n ):\n forward_output = self.decoder.forward(\n prev_output_tokens=self.prev_output_tokens,\n encoder_out=self.forward_input,\n )\n succ, msg = check_decoder_output(forward_output)\n if not succ:\n self.assertTrue(succ, msg=msg)\n self.forward_input = forward_output\n\n\nclass DummyEncoderModel(FairseqEncoderModel):\n def __init__(self, encoder):\n super().__init__(encoder)\n\n @classmethod\n def build_model(cls, args, task):\n return cls(DummyEncoder())\n\n def get_logits(self, net_output):\n # Inverse of sigmoid to use with BinaryCrossEntropyWithLogitsCriterion as\n # F.binary_cross_entropy_with_logits combines sigmoid and CE\n return torch.log(\n torch.div(net_output[\"encoder_out\"], 1 - net_output[\"encoder_out\"])\n )\n\n\nclass DummyEncoder(FairseqEncoder):\n def __init__(self):\n super().__init__(None)\n\n def forward(self, src_tokens, src_lengths):\n mask, max_len = lengths_to_encoder_padding_mask(src_lengths)\n return {\"encoder_out\": src_tokens, \"encoder_padding_mask\": mask}\n\n\nclass CrossEntropyCriterionTestBase(unittest.TestCase):\n @classmethod\n def setUpClass(cls):\n if cls is CrossEntropyCriterionTestBase:\n raise unittest.SkipTest(\"Skipping base class test case\")\n super().setUpClass()\n\n def setUpArgs(self):\n args = argparse.Namespace()\n args.sentence_avg = False\n args.threshold = 0.1 # to use with BinaryCrossEntropyWithLogitsCriterion\n return args\n\n def setUp(self):\n args = self.setUpArgs()\n self.model = DummyEncoderModel(encoder=DummyEncoder())\n self.criterion = self.criterion_cls(args=args, task=DummyTask(args))\n\n def get_src_tokens(self, correct_prediction, aggregate):\n \"\"\"\n correct_prediction: True if the net_output (src_tokens) should\n predict the correct target\n aggregate: True if the criterion expects net_output (src_tokens)\n aggregated across time axis\n \"\"\"\n predicted_idx = 0 if correct_prediction else 1\n if aggregate:\n src_tokens = torch.zeros((2, 2), dtype=torch.float)\n for b in range(2):\n src_tokens[b][predicted_idx] = 1.0\n else:\n src_tokens = torch.zeros((2, 10, 2), dtype=torch.float)\n for b in range(2):\n for t in range(10):\n src_tokens[b][t][predicted_idx] = 1.0\n return src_tokens\n\n def get_target(self, soft_target):\n if soft_target:\n target = torch.zeros((2, 2), dtype=torch.float)\n for b in range(2):\n target[b][0] = 1.0\n else:\n target = torch.zeros((2, 10), dtype=torch.long)\n return target\n\n def get_test_sample(self, correct, soft_target, aggregate):\n src_tokens = self.get_src_tokens(correct, aggregate)\n target = self.get_target(soft_target)\n L = src_tokens.size(1)\n return {\n \"net_input\": {\"src_tokens\": src_tokens, \"src_lengths\": torch.tensor([L])},\n \"target\": target,\n \"ntokens\": src_tokens.size(0) * src_tokens.size(1),\n }\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/tests/speech_recognition/test_collaters.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport unittest\n\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nfrom examples.speech_recognition.data.collaters import Seq2SeqCollater\n\n\nclass TestSeq2SeqCollator(unittest.TestCase):\n def test_collate(self):\n\n eos_idx = 1\n pad_idx = 0\n collater = Seq2SeqCollater(\n feature_index=0, label_index=1, pad_index=pad_idx, eos_index=eos_idx\n )\n\n # 2 frames in the first sample and 3 frames in the second one\n frames1 = np.array([[7, 8], [9, 10]])\n frames2 = np.array([[1, 2], [3, 4], [5, 6]])\n target1 = np.array([4, 2, 3, eos_idx])\n target2 = np.array([3, 2, eos_idx])\n sample1 = {\"id\": 0, \"data\": [frames1, target1]}\n sample2 = {\"id\": 1, \"data\": [frames2, target2]}\n batch = collater.collate([sample1, sample2])\n\n # collate sort inputs by frame's length before creating the batch\n self.assertTensorEqual(batch[\"id\"], torch.tensor([1, 0]))\n self.assertEqual(batch[\"ntokens\"], 7)\n self.assertTensorEqual(\n batch[\"net_input\"][\"src_tokens\"],\n torch.tensor(\n [[[1, 2], [3, 4], [5, 6]], [[7, 8], [9, 10], [pad_idx, pad_idx]]]\n ),\n )\n self.assertTensorEqual(\n batch[\"net_input\"][\"prev_output_tokens\"],\n torch.tensor([[eos_idx, 3, 2, pad_idx], [eos_idx, 4, 2, 3]]),\n )\n self.assertTensorEqual(batch[\"net_input\"][\"src_lengths\"], torch.tensor([3, 2]))\n self.assertTensorEqual(\n batch[\"target\"],\n torch.tensor([[3, 2, eos_idx, pad_idx], [4, 2, 3, eos_idx]]),\n )\n self.assertEqual(batch[\"nsentences\"], 2)\n\n def assertTensorEqual(self, t1, t2):\n self.assertEqual(t1.size(), t2.size(), \"size mismatch\")\n self.assertEqual(t1.ne(t2).long().sum(), 0)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n unittest.main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/tests/speech_recognition/test_cross_entropy.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nfrom examples.speech_recognition.criterions.cross_entropy_acc import (\n CrossEntropyWithAccCriterion,\n)\nfrom .asr_test_base import CrossEntropyCriterionTestBase\n\n\nclass CrossEntropyWithAccCriterionTest(CrossEntropyCriterionTestBase):\n def setUp(self):\n self.criterion_cls = CrossEntropyWithAccCriterion\n super().setUp()\n\n def test_cross_entropy_all_correct(self):\n sample = self.get_test_sample(correct=True, soft_target=False, aggregate=False)\n loss, sample_size, logging_output = self.criterion(\n self.model, sample, \"sum\", log_probs=True\n )\n assert logging_output[\"correct\"] == 20\n assert logging_output[\"total\"] == 20\n assert logging_output[\"sample_size\"] == 20\n assert logging_output[\"ntokens\"] == 20\n\n def test_cross_entropy_all_wrong(self):\n sample = self.get_test_sample(correct=False, soft_target=False, aggregate=False)\n loss, sample_size, logging_output = self.criterion(\n self.model, sample, \"sum\", log_probs=True\n )\n assert logging_output[\"correct\"] == 0\n assert logging_output[\"total\"] == 20\n assert logging_output[\"sample_size\"] == 20\n assert logging_output[\"ntokens\"] == 20\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/tests/speech_recognition/test_vggtransformer.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3\n\n# import models/encoder/decoder to be tested\nfrom examples.speech_recognition.models.vggtransformer import (\n TransformerDecoder,\n VGGTransformerEncoder,\n VGGTransformerModel,\n vggtransformer_1,\n vggtransformer_2,\n vggtransformer_base,\n)\n\n# import base test class\nfrom .asr_test_base import (\n DEFAULT_TEST_VOCAB_SIZE,\n TestFairseqDecoderBase,\n TestFairseqEncoderBase,\n TestFairseqEncoderDecoderModelBase,\n get_dummy_dictionary,\n get_dummy_encoder_output,\n get_dummy_input,\n)\n\n\nclass VGGTransformerModelTest_mid(TestFairseqEncoderDecoderModelBase):\n def setUp(self):\n def override_config(args):\n \"\"\"\n vggtrasformer_1 use 14 layers of transformer,\n for testing purpose, it is too expensive. For fast turn-around\n test, reduce the number of layers to 3.\n \"\"\"\n args.transformer_enc_config = (\n \"((1024, 16, 4096, True, 0.15, 0.15, 0.15),) * 3\"\n )\n\n super().setUp()\n extra_args_setter = [vggtransformer_1, override_config]\n\n self.setUpModel(VGGTransformerModel, extra_args_setter)\n self.setUpInput(get_dummy_input(T=50, D=80, B=5, K=DEFAULT_TEST_VOCAB_SIZE))\n\n\nclass VGGTransformerModelTest_big(TestFairseqEncoderDecoderModelBase):\n def setUp(self):\n def override_config(args):\n \"\"\"\n vggtrasformer_2 use 16 layers of transformer,\n for testing purpose, it is too expensive. For fast turn-around\n test, reduce the number of layers to 3.\n \"\"\"\n args.transformer_enc_config = (\n \"((1024, 16, 4096, True, 0.15, 0.15, 0.15),) * 3\"\n )\n\n super().setUp()\n extra_args_setter = [vggtransformer_2, override_config]\n\n self.setUpModel(VGGTransformerModel, extra_args_setter)\n self.setUpInput(get_dummy_input(T=50, D=80, B=5, K=DEFAULT_TEST_VOCAB_SIZE))\n\n\nclass VGGTransformerModelTest_base(TestFairseqEncoderDecoderModelBase):\n def setUp(self):\n def override_config(args):\n \"\"\"\n vggtrasformer_base use 12 layers of transformer,\n for testing purpose, it is too expensive. For fast turn-around\n test, reduce the number of layers to 3.\n \"\"\"\n args.transformer_enc_config = (\n \"((512, 8, 2048, True, 0.15, 0.15, 0.15),) * 3\"\n )\n\n super().setUp()\n extra_args_setter = [vggtransformer_base, override_config]\n\n self.setUpModel(VGGTransformerModel, extra_args_setter)\n self.setUpInput(get_dummy_input(T=50, D=80, B=5, K=DEFAULT_TEST_VOCAB_SIZE))\n\n\nclass VGGTransformerEncoderTest(TestFairseqEncoderBase):\n def setUp(self):\n super().setUp()\n\n self.setUpInput(get_dummy_input(T=50, D=80, B=5))\n\n def test_forward(self):\n print(\"1. test standard vggtransformer\")\n self.setUpEncoder(VGGTransformerEncoder(input_feat_per_channel=80))\n super().test_forward()\n print(\"2. test vggtransformer with limited right context\")\n self.setUpEncoder(\n VGGTransformerEncoder(\n input_feat_per_channel=80, transformer_context=(-1, 5)\n )\n )\n super().test_forward()\n print(\"3. test vggtransformer with limited left context\")\n self.setUpEncoder(\n VGGTransformerEncoder(\n input_feat_per_channel=80, transformer_context=(5, -1)\n )\n )\n super().test_forward()\n print(\"4. test vggtransformer with limited right context and sampling\")\n self.setUpEncoder(\n VGGTransformerEncoder(\n input_feat_per_channel=80,\n transformer_context=(-1, 12),\n transformer_sampling=(2, 2),\n )\n )\n super().test_forward()\n print(\"5. test vggtransformer with windowed context and sampling\")\n self.setUpEncoder(\n VGGTransformerEncoder(\n input_feat_per_channel=80,\n transformer_context=(12, 12),\n transformer_sampling=(2, 2),\n )\n )\n\n\nclass TransformerDecoderTest(TestFairseqDecoderBase):\n def setUp(self):\n super().setUp()\n\n dict = get_dummy_dictionary(vocab_size=DEFAULT_TEST_VOCAB_SIZE)\n decoder = TransformerDecoder(dict)\n dummy_encoder_output = get_dummy_encoder_output(encoder_out_shape=(50, 5, 256))\n\n self.setUpDecoder(decoder)\n self.setUpInput(dummy_encoder_output)\n self.setUpPrevOutputTokens()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/tests/test_average_checkpoints.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport collections\nimport os\nimport tempfile\nimport unittest\nimport shutil\n\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\n\n\nfrom scripts.average_checkpoints import average_checkpoints\n\n\nclass ModelWithSharedParameter(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self):\n super(ModelWithSharedParameter, self).__init__()\n self.embedding = nn.Embedding(1000, 200)\n self.FC1 = nn.Linear(200, 200)\n self.FC2 = nn.Linear(200, 200)\n # tie weight in FC2 to FC1\n self.FC2.weight = nn.Parameter(self.FC1.weight)\n self.FC2.bias = nn.Parameter(self.FC1.bias)\n\n self.relu = nn.ReLU()\n\n def forward(self, input):\n return self.FC2(self.ReLU(self.FC1(input))) + self.FC1(input)\n\n\nclass TestAverageCheckpoints(unittest.TestCase):\n def test_average_checkpoints(self):\n params_0 = collections.OrderedDict(\n [\n (\"a\", torch.DoubleTensor([100.0])),\n (\"b\", torch.FloatTensor([[1.0, 2.0, 3.0], [4.0, 5.0, 6.0]])),\n (\"c\", torch.IntTensor([7, 8, 9])),\n ]\n )\n params_1 = collections.OrderedDict(\n [\n (\"a\", torch.DoubleTensor([1.0])),\n (\"b\", torch.FloatTensor([[1.0, 1.0, 1.0], [1.0, 1.0, 1.0]])),\n (\"c\", torch.IntTensor([2, 2, 2])),\n ]\n )\n params_avg = collections.OrderedDict(\n [\n (\"a\", torch.DoubleTensor([50.5])),\n (\"b\", torch.FloatTensor([[1.0, 1.5, 2.0], [2.5, 3.0, 3.5]])),\n # We expect truncation for integer division\n (\"c\", torch.IntTensor([4, 5, 5])),\n ]\n )\n\n fd_0, path_0 = tempfile.mkstemp()\n fd_1, path_1 = tempfile.mkstemp()\n torch.save(collections.OrderedDict([(\"model\", params_0)]), path_0)\n torch.save(collections.OrderedDict([(\"model\", params_1)]), path_1)\n\n output = average_checkpoints([path_0, path_1])[\"model\"]\n\n os.close(fd_0)\n os.remove(path_0)\n os.close(fd_1)\n os.remove(path_1)\n\n for (k_expected, v_expected), (k_out, v_out) in zip(\n params_avg.items(), output.items()\n ):\n self.assertEqual(\n k_expected,\n k_out,\n \"Key mismatch - expected {} but found {}. \"\n \"(Expected list of keys: {} vs actual list of keys: {})\".format(\n k_expected, k_out, params_avg.keys(), output.keys()\n ),\n )\n np.testing.assert_allclose(\n v_expected.numpy(),\n v_out.numpy(),\n err_msg=\"Tensor value mismatch for key {}\".format(k_expected),\n )\n\n def test_average_checkpoints_with_shared_parameters(self):\n def _construct_model_with_shared_parameters(path, value):\n m = ModelWithSharedParameter()\n nn.init.constant_(m.FC1.weight, value)\n torch.save({\"model\": m.state_dict()}, path)\n return m\n\n tmpdir = tempfile.mkdtemp()\n paths = []\n path = os.path.join(tmpdir, \"m1.pt\")\n m1 = _construct_model_with_shared_parameters(path, 1.0)\n paths.append(path)\n\n path = os.path.join(tmpdir, \"m2.pt\")\n m2 = _construct_model_with_shared_parameters(path, 2.0)\n paths.append(path)\n\n path = os.path.join(tmpdir, \"m3.pt\")\n m3 = _construct_model_with_shared_parameters(path, 3.0)\n paths.append(path)\n\n new_model = average_checkpoints(paths)\n self.assertTrue(\n torch.equal(\n new_model[\"model\"][\"embedding.weight\"],\n (m1.embedding.weight + m2.embedding.weight + m3.embedding.weight) / 3.0,\n )\n )\n\n self.assertTrue(\n torch.equal(\n new_model[\"model\"][\"FC1.weight\"],\n (m1.FC1.weight + m2.FC1.weight + m3.FC1.weight) / 3.0,\n )\n )\n\n self.assertTrue(\n torch.equal(\n new_model[\"model\"][\"FC2.weight\"],\n (m1.FC2.weight + m2.FC2.weight + m3.FC2.weight) / 3.0,\n )\n )\n shutil.rmtree(tmpdir)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n unittest.main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/tests/test_backtranslation_dataset.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport unittest\n\nimport torch\n\nfrom fairseq.data import (\n BacktranslationDataset,\n LanguagePairDataset,\n TransformEosDataset,\n)\nfrom fairseq.sequence_generator import SequenceGenerator\n\nimport tests.utils as test_utils\n\n\nclass TestBacktranslationDataset(unittest.TestCase):\n def setUp(self):\n (\n self.tgt_dict,\n self.w1,\n self.w2,\n self.src_tokens,\n self.src_lengths,\n self.model,\n ) = test_utils.sequence_generator_setup()\n\n dummy_src_samples = self.src_tokens\n\n self.tgt_dataset = test_utils.TestDataset(data=dummy_src_samples)\n self.cuda = torch.cuda.is_available()\n\n def _backtranslation_dataset_helper(\n self, remove_eos_from_input_src, remove_eos_from_output_src,\n ):\n tgt_dataset = LanguagePairDataset(\n src=self.tgt_dataset,\n src_sizes=self.tgt_dataset.sizes,\n src_dict=self.tgt_dict,\n tgt=None,\n tgt_sizes=None,\n tgt_dict=None,\n )\n\n generator = SequenceGenerator(\n tgt_dict=self.tgt_dict,\n max_len_a=0,\n max_len_b=200,\n beam_size=2,\n unk_penalty=0,\n sampling=False,\n )\n\n backtranslation_dataset = BacktranslationDataset(\n tgt_dataset=TransformEosDataset(\n dataset=tgt_dataset,\n eos=self.tgt_dict.eos(),\n # remove eos from the input src\n remove_eos_from_src=remove_eos_from_input_src,\n ),\n src_dict=self.tgt_dict,\n backtranslation_fn=(\n lambda sample: generator.generate([self.model], sample)\n ),\n output_collater=TransformEosDataset(\n dataset=tgt_dataset,\n eos=self.tgt_dict.eos(),\n # if we remove eos from the input src, then we need to add it\n # back to the output tgt\n append_eos_to_tgt=remove_eos_from_input_src,\n remove_eos_from_src=remove_eos_from_output_src,\n ).collater,\n cuda=self.cuda,\n )\n dataloader = torch.utils.data.DataLoader(\n backtranslation_dataset,\n batch_size=2,\n collate_fn=backtranslation_dataset.collater,\n )\n backtranslation_batch_result = next(iter(dataloader))\n\n eos, pad, w1, w2 = self.tgt_dict.eos(), self.tgt_dict.pad(), self.w1, self.w2\n\n # Note that we sort by src_lengths and add left padding, so actually\n # ids will look like: [1, 0]\n expected_src = torch.LongTensor([[w1, w2, w1, eos], [pad, pad, w1, eos]])\n if remove_eos_from_output_src:\n expected_src = expected_src[:, :-1]\n expected_tgt = torch.LongTensor([[w1, w2, eos], [w1, w2, eos]])\n generated_src = backtranslation_batch_result[\"net_input\"][\"src_tokens\"]\n tgt_tokens = backtranslation_batch_result[\"target\"]\n\n self.assertTensorEqual(expected_src, generated_src)\n self.assertTensorEqual(expected_tgt, tgt_tokens)\n\n def test_backtranslation_dataset_no_eos_in_output_src(self):\n self._backtranslation_dataset_helper(\n remove_eos_from_input_src=False, remove_eos_from_output_src=True,\n )\n\n def test_backtranslation_dataset_with_eos_in_output_src(self):\n self._backtranslation_dataset_helper(\n remove_eos_from_input_src=False, remove_eos_from_output_src=False,\n )\n\n def test_backtranslation_dataset_no_eos_in_input_src(self):\n self._backtranslation_dataset_helper(\n remove_eos_from_input_src=True, remove_eos_from_output_src=False,\n )\n\n def assertTensorEqual(self, t1, t2):\n self.assertEqual(t1.size(), t2.size(), \"size mismatch\")\n self.assertEqual(t1.ne(t2).long().sum(), 0)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n unittest.main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/tests/test_binaries.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport contextlib\nfrom io import StringIO\nimport os\nimport random\nimport sys\nimport tempfile\nimport unittest\n\nimport torch\n\nfrom fairseq import options\n\nimport preprocess\nimport train\nimport generate\nimport interactive\nimport eval_lm\nimport validate\n\n\nclass TestTranslation(unittest.TestCase):\n def test_fconv(self):\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n with tempfile.TemporaryDirectory(\"test_fconv\") as data_dir:\n create_dummy_data(data_dir)\n preprocess_translation_data(data_dir)\n train_translation_model(data_dir, \"fconv_iwslt_de_en\")\n generate_main(data_dir)\n\n def test_raw(self):\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n with tempfile.TemporaryDirectory(\"test_fconv_raw\") as data_dir:\n create_dummy_data(data_dir)\n preprocess_translation_data(data_dir, [\"--dataset-impl\", \"raw\"])\n train_translation_model(\n data_dir, \"fconv_iwslt_de_en\", [\"--dataset-impl\", \"raw\"]\n )\n generate_main(data_dir, [\"--dataset-impl\", \"raw\"])\n\n def test_fp16(self):\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n with tempfile.TemporaryDirectory(\"test_fp16\") as data_dir:\n create_dummy_data(data_dir)\n preprocess_translation_data(data_dir)\n train_translation_model(data_dir, \"fconv_iwslt_de_en\", [\"--fp16\"])\n generate_main(data_dir)\n\n def test_memory_efficient_fp16(self):\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n with tempfile.TemporaryDirectory(\"test_memory_efficient_fp16\") as data_dir:\n create_dummy_data(data_dir)\n preprocess_translation_data(data_dir)\n train_translation_model(\n data_dir, \"fconv_iwslt_de_en\", [\"--memory-efficient-fp16\"]\n )\n generate_main(data_dir)\n\n def test_update_freq(self):\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n with tempfile.TemporaryDirectory(\"test_update_freq\") as data_dir:\n create_dummy_data(data_dir)\n preprocess_translation_data(data_dir)\n train_translation_model(\n data_dir, \"fconv_iwslt_de_en\", [\"--update-freq\", \"3\"]\n )\n generate_main(data_dir)\n\n def test_max_positions(self):\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n with tempfile.TemporaryDirectory(\"test_max_positions\") as data_dir:\n create_dummy_data(data_dir)\n preprocess_translation_data(data_dir)\n with self.assertRaises(Exception) as context:\n train_translation_model(\n data_dir, \"fconv_iwslt_de_en\", [\"--max-target-positions\", \"5\"],\n )\n self.assertTrue(\n \"skip this example with --skip-invalid-size-inputs-valid-test\"\n in str(context.exception)\n )\n train_translation_model(\n data_dir,\n \"fconv_iwslt_de_en\",\n [\n \"--max-target-positions\",\n \"5\",\n \"--skip-invalid-size-inputs-valid-test\",\n ],\n )\n with self.assertRaises(Exception) as context:\n generate_main(data_dir)\n generate_main(data_dir, [\"--skip-invalid-size-inputs-valid-test\"])\n\n def test_generation(self):\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n with tempfile.TemporaryDirectory(\"test_sampling\") as data_dir:\n create_dummy_data(data_dir)\n preprocess_translation_data(data_dir)\n train_translation_model(data_dir, \"fconv_iwslt_de_en\")\n generate_main(\n data_dir,\n [\n \"--sampling\",\n \"--temperature\",\n \"2\",\n \"--beam\",\n \"2\",\n \"--nbest\",\n \"2\",\n ],\n )\n generate_main(\n data_dir,\n [\n \"--sampling\",\n \"--sampling-topk\",\n \"3\",\n \"--beam\",\n \"2\",\n \"--nbest\",\n \"2\",\n ],\n )\n generate_main(\n data_dir,\n [\n \"--sampling\",\n \"--sampling-topp\",\n \"0.2\",\n \"--beam\",\n \"2\",\n \"--nbest\",\n \"2\",\n ],\n )\n generate_main(data_dir, [\"--prefix-size\", \"2\"])\n\n def test_lstm(self):\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n with tempfile.TemporaryDirectory(\"test_lstm\") as data_dir:\n create_dummy_data(data_dir)\n preprocess_translation_data(data_dir)\n train_translation_model(\n data_dir,\n \"lstm_wiseman_iwslt_de_en\",\n [\n \"--encoder-layers\",\n \"2\",\n \"--decoder-layers\",\n \"2\",\n \"--encoder-embed-dim\",\n \"8\",\n \"--decoder-embed-dim\",\n \"8\",\n \"--decoder-out-embed-dim\",\n \"8\",\n ],\n )\n generate_main(data_dir)\n\n def test_lstm_bidirectional(self):\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n with tempfile.TemporaryDirectory(\"test_lstm_bidirectional\") as data_dir:\n create_dummy_data(data_dir)\n preprocess_translation_data(data_dir)\n train_translation_model(\n data_dir,\n \"lstm\",\n [\n \"--encoder-layers\",\n \"2\",\n \"--encoder-bidirectional\",\n \"--encoder-hidden-size\",\n \"16\",\n \"--encoder-embed-dim\",\n \"8\",\n \"--decoder-embed-dim\",\n \"8\",\n \"--decoder-out-embed-dim\",\n \"8\",\n \"--decoder-layers\",\n \"2\",\n ],\n )\n generate_main(data_dir)\n\n def test_transformer(self):\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n with tempfile.TemporaryDirectory(\"test_transformer\") as data_dir:\n create_dummy_data(data_dir)\n preprocess_translation_data(data_dir)\n train_translation_model(\n data_dir,\n \"transformer_iwslt_de_en\",\n [\n \"--encoder-layers\",\n \"2\",\n \"--decoder-layers\",\n \"2\",\n \"--encoder-embed-dim\",\n \"8\",\n \"--decoder-embed-dim\",\n \"8\",\n ],\n run_validation=True,\n )\n generate_main(data_dir)\n\n def test_transformer_cross_self_attention(self):\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n with tempfile.TemporaryDirectory(\n \"test_transformer_cross_self_attention\"\n ) as data_dir:\n create_dummy_data(data_dir)\n preprocess_translation_data(data_dir)\n train_translation_model(\n data_dir,\n \"transformer_iwslt_de_en\",\n [\n \"--encoder-layers\",\n \"2\",\n \"--decoder-layers\",\n \"2\",\n \"--encoder-embed-dim\",\n \"8\",\n \"--decoder-embed-dim\",\n \"8\",\n \"--decoder-embed-dim\",\n \"8\",\n \"--no-cross-attention\",\n \"--cross-self-attention\",\n \"--layer-wise-attention\",\n ],\n run_validation=True,\n )\n generate_main(data_dir, extra_flags=[])\n\n def test_lightconv(self):\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n with tempfile.TemporaryDirectory(\"test_lightconv\") as data_dir:\n create_dummy_data(data_dir)\n preprocess_translation_data(data_dir)\n train_translation_model(\n data_dir,\n \"lightconv_iwslt_de_en\",\n [\n \"--encoder-conv-type\",\n \"lightweight\",\n \"--decoder-conv-type\",\n \"lightweight\",\n \"--encoder-embed-dim\",\n \"8\",\n \"--decoder-embed-dim\",\n \"8\",\n ],\n )\n generate_main(data_dir)\n\n def test_dynamicconv(self):\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n with tempfile.TemporaryDirectory(\"test_dynamicconv\") as data_dir:\n create_dummy_data(data_dir)\n preprocess_translation_data(data_dir)\n train_translation_model(\n data_dir,\n \"lightconv_iwslt_de_en\",\n [\n \"--encoder-conv-type\",\n \"dynamic\",\n \"--decoder-conv-type\",\n \"dynamic\",\n \"--encoder-embed-dim\",\n \"8\",\n \"--decoder-embed-dim\",\n \"8\",\n ],\n )\n generate_main(data_dir)\n\n def test_cmlm_transformer(self):\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n with tempfile.TemporaryDirectory(\"test_cmlm_transformer\") as data_dir:\n create_dummy_data(data_dir)\n preprocess_translation_data(data_dir, [\"--joined-dictionary\"])\n train_translation_model(\n data_dir,\n \"cmlm_transformer\",\n [\n \"--apply-bert-init\",\n \"--criterion\",\n \"nat_loss\",\n \"--noise\",\n \"full_mask\",\n \"--pred-length-offset\",\n \"--length-loss-factor\",\n \"0.1\",\n ],\n task=\"translation_lev\",\n )\n generate_main(\n data_dir,\n [\n \"--task\",\n \"translation_lev\",\n \"--iter-decode-max-iter\",\n \"9\",\n \"--iter-decode-eos-penalty\",\n \"0\",\n \"--print-step\",\n ],\n )\n\n def test_levenshtein_transformer(self):\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n with tempfile.TemporaryDirectory(\n \"test_levenshtein_transformer\"\n ) as data_dir:\n create_dummy_data(data_dir)\n preprocess_translation_data(data_dir, [\"--joined-dictionary\"])\n train_translation_model(\n data_dir,\n \"levenshtein_transformer\",\n [\n \"--apply-bert-init\",\n \"--early-exit\",\n \"6,6,6\",\n \"--criterion\",\n \"nat_loss\",\n ],\n task=\"translation_lev\",\n )\n generate_main(\n data_dir,\n [\n \"--task\",\n \"translation_lev\",\n \"--iter-decode-max-iter\",\n \"9\",\n \"--iter-decode-eos-penalty\",\n \"0\",\n \"--print-step\",\n ],\n )\n\n def test_nonautoregressive_transformer(self):\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n with tempfile.TemporaryDirectory(\n \"test_nonautoregressive_transformer\"\n ) as data_dir:\n create_dummy_data(data_dir)\n preprocess_translation_data(data_dir, [\"--joined-dictionary\"])\n train_translation_model(\n data_dir,\n \"nonautoregressive_transformer\",\n [\n \"--apply-bert-init\",\n \"--src-embedding-copy\",\n \"--criterion\",\n \"nat_loss\",\n \"--noise\",\n \"full_mask\",\n \"--pred-length-offset\",\n \"--length-loss-factor\",\n \"0.1\",\n ],\n task=\"translation_lev\",\n )\n generate_main(\n data_dir,\n [\n \"--task\",\n \"translation_lev\",\n \"--iter-decode-max-iter\",\n \"9\",\n \"--iter-decode-eos-penalty\",\n \"0\",\n \"--print-step\",\n ],\n )\n\n def test_iterative_nonautoregressive_transformer(self):\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n with tempfile.TemporaryDirectory(\n \"test_iterative_nonautoregressive_transformer\"\n ) as data_dir:\n create_dummy_data(data_dir)\n preprocess_translation_data(data_dir, [\"--joined-dictionary\"])\n train_translation_model(\n data_dir,\n \"iterative_nonautoregressive_transformer\",\n [\n \"--apply-bert-init\",\n \"--src-embedding-copy\",\n \"--criterion\",\n \"nat_loss\",\n \"--noise\",\n \"full_mask\",\n \"--stochastic-approx\",\n \"--dae-ratio\",\n \"0.5\",\n \"--train-step\",\n \"3\",\n ],\n task=\"translation_lev\",\n )\n generate_main(\n data_dir,\n [\n \"--task\",\n \"translation_lev\",\n \"--iter-decode-max-iter\",\n \"9\",\n \"--iter-decode-eos-penalty\",\n \"0\",\n \"--print-step\",\n ],\n )\n\n def test_insertion_transformer(self):\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n with tempfile.TemporaryDirectory(\"test_insertion_transformer\") as data_dir:\n create_dummy_data(data_dir)\n preprocess_translation_data(data_dir, [\"--joined-dictionary\"])\n train_translation_model(\n data_dir,\n \"insertion_transformer\",\n [\n \"--apply-bert-init\",\n \"--criterion\",\n \"nat_loss\",\n \"--noise\",\n \"random_mask\",\n ],\n task=\"translation_lev\",\n )\n generate_main(\n data_dir,\n [\n \"--task\",\n \"translation_lev\",\n \"--iter-decode-max-iter\",\n \"9\",\n \"--iter-decode-eos-penalty\",\n \"0\",\n \"--print-step\",\n ],\n )\n\n def test_mixture_of_experts(self):\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n with tempfile.TemporaryDirectory(\"test_moe\") as data_dir:\n create_dummy_data(data_dir)\n preprocess_translation_data(data_dir)\n train_translation_model(\n data_dir,\n \"transformer_iwslt_de_en\",\n [\n \"--task\",\n \"translation_moe\",\n \"--method\",\n \"hMoElp\",\n \"--mean-pool-gating-network\",\n \"--num-experts\",\n \"3\",\n \"--encoder-layers\",\n \"2\",\n \"--decoder-layers\",\n \"2\",\n \"--encoder-embed-dim\",\n \"8\",\n \"--decoder-embed-dim\",\n \"8\",\n ],\n )\n generate_main(\n data_dir,\n [\n \"--task\",\n \"translation_moe\",\n \"--method\",\n \"hMoElp\",\n \"--mean-pool-gating-network\",\n \"--num-experts\",\n \"3\",\n \"--gen-expert\",\n \"0\",\n ],\n )\n\n def test_alignment(self):\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n with tempfile.TemporaryDirectory(\"test_alignment\") as data_dir:\n create_dummy_data(data_dir, alignment=True)\n preprocess_translation_data(data_dir, [\"--align-suffix\", \"align\"])\n train_translation_model(\n data_dir,\n \"transformer_align\",\n [\n \"--encoder-layers\",\n \"2\",\n \"--decoder-layers\",\n \"2\",\n \"--encoder-embed-dim\",\n \"8\",\n \"--decoder-embed-dim\",\n \"8\",\n \"--load-alignments\",\n \"--alignment-layer\",\n \"1\",\n \"--criterion\",\n \"label_smoothed_cross_entropy_with_alignment\",\n ],\n run_validation=True,\n )\n generate_main(data_dir)\n\n\nclass TestStories(unittest.TestCase):\n def test_fconv_self_att_wp(self):\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n with tempfile.TemporaryDirectory(\"test_fconv_self_att_wp\") as data_dir:\n create_dummy_data(data_dir)\n preprocess_translation_data(data_dir)\n config = [\n \"--encoder-layers\",\n \"[(128, 3)] * 2\",\n \"--decoder-layers\",\n \"[(128, 3)] * 2\",\n \"--decoder-attention\",\n \"True\",\n \"--encoder-attention\",\n \"False\",\n \"--gated-attention\",\n \"True\",\n \"--self-attention\",\n \"True\",\n \"--project-input\",\n \"True\",\n \"--encoder-embed-dim\",\n \"8\",\n \"--decoder-embed-dim\",\n \"8\",\n \"--decoder-out-embed-dim\",\n \"8\",\n \"--multihead-self-attention-nheads\",\n \"2\",\n ]\n train_translation_model(data_dir, \"fconv_self_att_wp\", config)\n generate_main(data_dir)\n\n # fusion model\n os.rename(\n os.path.join(data_dir, \"checkpoint_last.pt\"),\n os.path.join(data_dir, \"pretrained.pt\"),\n )\n config.extend(\n [\n \"--pretrained\",\n \"True\",\n \"--pretrained-checkpoint\",\n os.path.join(data_dir, \"pretrained.pt\"),\n \"--save-dir\",\n os.path.join(data_dir, \"fusion_model\"),\n ]\n )\n train_translation_model(data_dir, \"fconv_self_att_wp\", config)\n\n\nclass TestLanguageModeling(unittest.TestCase):\n def test_fconv_lm(self):\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n with tempfile.TemporaryDirectory(\"test_fconv_lm\") as data_dir:\n create_dummy_data(data_dir)\n preprocess_lm_data(data_dir)\n train_language_model(\n data_dir,\n \"fconv_lm\",\n [\n \"--decoder-layers\",\n \"[(850, 3)] * 2 + [(1024,4)]\",\n \"--decoder-embed-dim\",\n \"280\",\n \"--optimizer\",\n \"nag\",\n \"--lr\",\n \"0.1\",\n ],\n )\n eval_lm_main(data_dir)\n\n def test_transformer_lm(self):\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n with tempfile.TemporaryDirectory(\"test_transformer_lm\") as data_dir:\n create_dummy_data(data_dir)\n preprocess_lm_data(data_dir)\n train_language_model(\n data_dir,\n \"transformer_lm\",\n [\"--add-bos-token\"],\n run_validation=True,\n )\n eval_lm_main(data_dir)\n generate_main(\n data_dir,\n [\n \"--task\",\n \"language_modeling\",\n \"--sample-break-mode\",\n \"eos\",\n \"--tokens-per-sample\",\n \"500\",\n ],\n )\n\n def test_lightconv_lm(self):\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n with tempfile.TemporaryDirectory(\"test_lightconv_lm\") as data_dir:\n create_dummy_data(data_dir)\n preprocess_lm_data(data_dir)\n train_language_model(\n data_dir, \"lightconv_lm\", [\"--add-bos-token\"], run_validation=True,\n )\n eval_lm_main(data_dir)\n generate_main(\n data_dir,\n [\n \"--task\",\n \"language_modeling\",\n \"--sample-break-mode\",\n \"eos\",\n \"--tokens-per-sample\",\n \"500\",\n ],\n )\n\n\nclass TestMaskedLanguageModel(unittest.TestCase):\n def test_legacy_masked_lm(self):\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n with tempfile.TemporaryDirectory(\"test_legacy_mlm\") as data_dir:\n create_dummy_data(data_dir)\n preprocess_lm_data(data_dir)\n train_legacy_masked_language_model(data_dir, \"masked_lm\")\n\n def _test_pretrained_masked_lm_for_translation(self, learned_pos_emb, encoder_only):\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n with tempfile.TemporaryDirectory(\"test_mlm\") as data_dir:\n create_dummy_data(data_dir)\n preprocess_lm_data(data_dir)\n train_legacy_masked_language_model(\n data_dir,\n arch=\"masked_lm\",\n extra_args=(\"--encoder-learned-pos\",) if learned_pos_emb else (),\n )\n with tempfile.TemporaryDirectory(\n \"test_mlm_translation\"\n ) as translation_dir:\n create_dummy_data(translation_dir)\n preprocess_translation_data(\n translation_dir, extra_flags=[\"--joined-dictionary\"]\n )\n # Train transformer with data_dir/checkpoint_last.pt\n train_translation_model(\n translation_dir,\n arch=\"transformer_from_pretrained_xlm\",\n extra_flags=[\n \"--decoder-layers\",\n \"1\",\n \"--decoder-embed-dim\",\n \"32\",\n \"--decoder-attention-heads\",\n \"1\",\n \"--decoder-ffn-embed-dim\",\n \"32\",\n \"--encoder-layers\",\n \"1\",\n \"--encoder-embed-dim\",\n \"32\",\n \"--encoder-attention-heads\",\n \"1\",\n \"--encoder-ffn-embed-dim\",\n \"32\",\n \"--pretrained-xlm-checkpoint\",\n \"{}/checkpoint_last.pt\".format(data_dir),\n \"--activation-fn\",\n \"gelu\",\n \"--max-source-positions\",\n \"500\",\n \"--max-target-positions\",\n \"500\",\n ]\n + (\n [\"--encoder-learned-pos\", \"--decoder-learned-pos\"]\n if learned_pos_emb\n else []\n )\n + ([\"--init-encoder-only\"] if encoder_only else []),\n task=\"translation_from_pretrained_xlm\",\n )\n\n def test_pretrained_masked_lm_for_translation_learned_pos_emb(self):\n self._test_pretrained_masked_lm_for_translation(True, False)\n\n def test_pretrained_masked_lm_for_translation_sinusoidal_pos_emb(self):\n self._test_pretrained_masked_lm_for_translation(False, False)\n\n def test_pretrained_masked_lm_for_translation_encoder_only(self):\n self._test_pretrained_masked_lm_for_translation(True, True)\n\n\ndef train_legacy_masked_language_model(data_dir, arch, extra_args=()):\n train_parser = options.get_training_parser()\n # TODO: langs should be in and out right?\n train_args = options.parse_args_and_arch(\n train_parser,\n [\n \"--task\",\n \"cross_lingual_lm\",\n data_dir,\n \"--arch\",\n arch,\n # Optimizer args\n \"--optimizer\",\n \"adam\",\n \"--lr-scheduler\",\n \"reduce_lr_on_plateau\",\n \"--lr-shrink\",\n \"0.5\",\n \"--lr\",\n \"0.0001\",\n \"--min-lr\",\n \"1e-09\",\n # dropout, attention args\n \"--dropout\",\n \"0.1\",\n \"--attention-dropout\",\n \"0.1\",\n # MLM args\n \"--criterion\",\n \"legacy_masked_lm_loss\",\n \"--masked-lm-only\",\n \"--monolingual-langs\",\n \"in,out\",\n \"--num-segment\",\n \"5\",\n # Transformer args: use a small transformer model for fast training\n \"--encoder-layers\",\n \"1\",\n \"--encoder-embed-dim\",\n \"32\",\n \"--encoder-attention-heads\",\n \"1\",\n \"--encoder-ffn-embed-dim\",\n \"32\",\n # Other training args\n \"--max-tokens\",\n \"500\",\n \"--tokens-per-sample\",\n \"500\",\n \"--save-dir\",\n data_dir,\n \"--max-epoch\",\n \"1\",\n \"--no-progress-bar\",\n \"--distributed-world-size\",\n \"1\",\n \"--dataset-impl\",\n \"raw\",\n ]\n + list(extra_args),\n )\n train.main(train_args)\n\n\nclass TestCommonOptions(unittest.TestCase):\n def test_optimizers(self):\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n with tempfile.TemporaryDirectory(\"test_optimizers\") as data_dir:\n # Use just a bit of data and tiny model to keep this test runtime reasonable\n create_dummy_data(data_dir, num_examples=10, maxlen=5)\n preprocess_translation_data(data_dir)\n optimizers = [\"adafactor\", \"adam\", \"nag\", \"adagrad\", \"sgd\", \"adadelta\"]\n last_checkpoint = os.path.join(data_dir, \"checkpoint_last.pt\")\n for optimizer in optimizers:\n if os.path.exists(last_checkpoint):\n os.remove(last_checkpoint)\n train_translation_model(\n data_dir,\n \"lstm\",\n [\n \"--required-batch-size-multiple\",\n \"1\",\n \"--encoder-layers\",\n \"1\",\n \"--encoder-hidden-size\",\n \"32\",\n \"--decoder-layers\",\n \"1\",\n \"--optimizer\",\n optimizer,\n ],\n )\n generate_main(data_dir)\n\n\ndef create_dummy_data(data_dir, num_examples=1000, maxlen=20, alignment=False):\n def _create_dummy_data(filename):\n data = torch.rand(num_examples * maxlen)\n data = 97 + torch.floor(26 * data).int()\n with open(os.path.join(data_dir, filename), \"w\") as h:\n offset = 0\n for _ in range(num_examples):\n ex_len = random.randint(1, maxlen)\n ex_str = \" \".join(map(chr, data[offset : offset + ex_len]))\n print(ex_str, file=h)\n offset += ex_len\n\n def _create_dummy_alignment_data(filename_src, filename_tgt, filename):\n with open(os.path.join(data_dir, filename_src), \"r\") as src_f, open(\n os.path.join(data_dir, filename_tgt), \"r\"\n ) as tgt_f, open(os.path.join(data_dir, filename), \"w\") as h:\n for src, tgt in zip(src_f, tgt_f):\n src_len = len(src.split())\n tgt_len = len(tgt.split())\n avg_len = (src_len + tgt_len) // 2\n num_alignments = random.randint(avg_len // 2, 2 * avg_len)\n src_indices = torch.floor(torch.rand(num_alignments) * src_len).int()\n tgt_indices = torch.floor(torch.rand(num_alignments) * tgt_len).int()\n ex_str = \" \".join(\n [\n \"{}-{}\".format(src, tgt)\n for src, tgt in zip(src_indices, tgt_indices)\n ]\n )\n print(ex_str, file=h)\n\n _create_dummy_data(\"train.in\")\n _create_dummy_data(\"train.out\")\n _create_dummy_data(\"valid.in\")\n _create_dummy_data(\"valid.out\")\n _create_dummy_data(\"test.in\")\n _create_dummy_data(\"test.out\")\n\n if alignment:\n _create_dummy_alignment_data(\"train.in\", \"train.out\", \"train.align\")\n _create_dummy_alignment_data(\"valid.in\", \"valid.out\", \"valid.align\")\n _create_dummy_alignment_data(\"test.in\", \"test.out\", \"test.align\")\n\n\ndef preprocess_translation_data(data_dir, extra_flags=None):\n preprocess_parser = options.get_preprocessing_parser()\n preprocess_args = preprocess_parser.parse_args(\n [\n \"--source-lang\",\n \"in\",\n \"--target-lang\",\n \"out\",\n \"--trainpref\",\n os.path.join(data_dir, \"train\"),\n \"--validpref\",\n os.path.join(data_dir, \"valid\"),\n \"--testpref\",\n os.path.join(data_dir, \"test\"),\n \"--thresholdtgt\",\n \"0\",\n \"--thresholdsrc\",\n \"0\",\n \"--destdir\",\n data_dir,\n ]\n + (extra_flags or []),\n )\n preprocess.main(preprocess_args)\n\n\ndef train_translation_model(\n data_dir, arch, extra_flags=None, task=\"translation\", run_validation=False\n):\n train_parser = options.get_training_parser()\n train_args = options.parse_args_and_arch(\n train_parser,\n [\n \"--task\",\n task,\n data_dir,\n \"--save-dir\",\n data_dir,\n \"--arch\",\n arch,\n \"--lr\",\n \"0.05\",\n \"--max-tokens\",\n \"500\",\n \"--max-epoch\",\n \"1\",\n \"--no-progress-bar\",\n \"--distributed-world-size\",\n \"1\",\n \"--source-lang\",\n \"in\",\n \"--target-lang\",\n \"out\",\n ]\n + (extra_flags or []),\n )\n train.main(train_args)\n\n if run_validation:\n # test validation\n validate_parser = options.get_validation_parser()\n validate_args = options.parse_args_and_arch(\n validate_parser,\n [\n \"--task\",\n task,\n data_dir,\n \"--path\",\n os.path.join(data_dir, \"checkpoint_last.pt\"),\n \"--valid-subset\",\n \"valid\",\n \"--max-tokens\",\n \"500\",\n \"--no-progress-bar\",\n ],\n )\n validate.main(validate_args)\n\n\ndef generate_main(data_dir, extra_flags=None):\n if extra_flags is None:\n extra_flags = [\n \"--print-alignment\",\n ]\n generate_parser = options.get_generation_parser()\n generate_args = options.parse_args_and_arch(\n generate_parser,\n [\n data_dir,\n \"--path\",\n os.path.join(data_dir, \"checkpoint_last.pt\"),\n \"--beam\",\n \"3\",\n \"--batch-size\",\n \"64\",\n \"--max-len-b\",\n \"5\",\n \"--gen-subset\",\n \"valid\",\n \"--no-progress-bar\",\n ]\n + (extra_flags or []),\n )\n\n # evaluate model in batch mode\n generate.main(generate_args)\n\n # evaluate model interactively\n generate_args.buffer_size = 0\n generate_args.input = \"-\"\n generate_args.max_sentences = None\n orig_stdin = sys.stdin\n sys.stdin = StringIO(\"h e l l o\\n\")\n interactive.main(generate_args)\n sys.stdin = orig_stdin\n\n\ndef preprocess_lm_data(data_dir):\n preprocess_parser = options.get_preprocessing_parser()\n preprocess_args = preprocess_parser.parse_args(\n [\n \"--only-source\",\n \"--trainpref\",\n os.path.join(data_dir, \"train.out\"),\n \"--validpref\",\n os.path.join(data_dir, \"valid.out\"),\n \"--testpref\",\n os.path.join(data_dir, \"test.out\"),\n \"--destdir\",\n data_dir,\n ]\n )\n preprocess.main(preprocess_args)\n\n\ndef train_language_model(data_dir, arch, extra_flags=None, run_validation=False):\n train_parser = options.get_training_parser()\n train_args = options.parse_args_and_arch(\n train_parser,\n [\n \"--task\",\n \"language_modeling\",\n data_dir,\n \"--arch\",\n arch,\n \"--optimizer\",\n \"adam\",\n \"--lr\",\n \"0.0001\",\n \"--criterion\",\n \"adaptive_loss\",\n \"--adaptive-softmax-cutoff\",\n \"5,10,15\",\n \"--max-tokens\",\n \"500\",\n \"--tokens-per-sample\",\n \"500\",\n \"--save-dir\",\n data_dir,\n \"--max-epoch\",\n \"1\",\n \"--no-progress-bar\",\n \"--distributed-world-size\",\n \"1\",\n \"--ddp-backend\",\n \"no_c10d\",\n ]\n + (extra_flags or []),\n )\n train.main(train_args)\n\n if run_validation:\n # test validation\n validate_parser = options.get_validation_parser()\n validate_args = options.parse_args_and_arch(\n validate_parser,\n [\n \"--task\",\n \"language_modeling\",\n data_dir,\n \"--path\",\n os.path.join(data_dir, \"checkpoint_last.pt\"),\n \"--valid-subset\",\n \"valid\",\n \"--max-tokens\",\n \"500\",\n \"--no-progress-bar\",\n ],\n )\n validate.main(validate_args)\n\n\ndef eval_lm_main(data_dir):\n eval_lm_parser = options.get_eval_lm_parser()\n eval_lm_args = options.parse_args_and_arch(\n eval_lm_parser,\n [\n data_dir,\n \"--path\",\n os.path.join(data_dir, \"checkpoint_last.pt\"),\n \"--no-progress-bar\",\n ],\n )\n eval_lm.main(eval_lm_args)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n unittest.main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/tests/test_bmuf.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport argparse\nfrom multiprocessing import Manager\nimport random\nimport unittest\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn as nn\n\nfrom fairseq import distributed_utils, optim\n\n\nclass Model(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, input_size, output_size):\n super(Model, self).__init__()\n self.fc = nn.Linear(input_size, output_size)\n\n def forward(self, input):\n output = self.fc(input)\n return output\n\n\ndef setup_model_loss_criterion(args, rank, is_cuda):\n \"\"\"\n setup model, criterion and optimizer based on input args\n \"\"\"\n args.distributed_rank = rank\n distributed_utils.distributed_init(args)\n torch.manual_seed(1)\n model = Model(args.input_size, args.nb_classes)\n loss_fn = nn.CrossEntropyLoss()\n if is_cuda:\n model = model.cuda()\n loss_fn = loss_fn.cuda()\n\n optimizer = optim.sgd.SGD(args, model.parameters())\n optimizer = optim.FairseqBMUF(args, optimizer)\n\n return model, loss_fn, optimizer\n\n\ndef train_step(input, target, model, loss_fn, optimizer):\n \"\"\"Do forward, backward and parameter update.\"\"\"\n model.train()\n output = model(input)\n loss = loss_fn(output, target)\n optimizer.backward(loss)\n optimizer.step()\n\n\ndef single_gpu_training(args, rank, iterations, shared_results):\n\n is_cuda = torch.cuda.is_available()\n if is_cuda:\n torch.cuda.set_device(rank)\n\n model, loss_fn, optimizer = setup_model_loss_criterion(args, rank, is_cuda)\n\n for _ in range(iterations):\n input = torch.randn(1, args.input_size)\n target = torch.empty(args.batch_size, dtype=torch.long).random_(args.nb_classes)\n\n if is_cuda:\n input = input.cuda()\n target = target.cuda()\n train_step(input, target, model, loss_fn, optimizer)\n\n results = []\n for param in model.parameters():\n if len(results) == 0:\n results = param.flatten().cpu().data\n else:\n results = torch.cat((results, param.flatten().cpu().data), 0)\n\n shared_results[rank] = results\n\n\ndef setup_args():\n args = argparse.Namespace()\n args.global_sync_iter = 20\n args.block_momentum = 0.875\n args.block_lr = 0.5\n args.input_size = 5\n args.nb_classes = 2\n args.batch_size = 1\n args.lr = [1e-3]\n args.momentum = 0\n args.weight_decay = 0\n args.warmup_iterations = 0\n args.use_nbm = True\n args.average_sync = True\n args.global_sync_iter = 1\n args.distributed_backend = \"gloo\"\n\n args.distributed_world_size = 2\n port = random.randint(10000, 20000)\n args.distributed_init_method = \"tcp://localhost:{port}\".format(port=port)\n args.distributed_init_host = \"localhost\"\n args.distributed_port = port + 1\n args.local_world_size = args.distributed_world_size\n return args\n\n\nclass TestBMUF(unittest.TestCase):\n def bmuf_process(self, args, iterations):\n processes = []\n results = Manager().dict()\n ctx = torch.multiprocessing.get_context(\"spawn\")\n for rank in range(args.distributed_world_size):\n p = ctx.Process(\n target=single_gpu_training, args=(args, rank, iterations, results)\n )\n p.start()\n processes.append(p)\n\n for p in processes:\n p.join()\n\n # Make sure params in both machines are same\n assert len(results) == 2\n self.assertAlmostEqual(results[0], results[1])\n\n def test_bmuf_sync(self):\n # Train model for 1 iteration and do bmuf sync without doing warmup\n args = setup_args()\n iterations = 1\n self.bmuf_process(args, iterations)\n\n def test_warmup_sync(self):\n # Train model for 20 iteration and do warmup sync without doing bmuf sync\n args = setup_args()\n args.warmup_iterations = 20\n iterations = 20\n self.bmuf_process(args, iterations)\n\n def test_warmup_sync_bmuf_sync(self):\n # Train model for 25 iteration and do warmup sync after 20 iteration\n # and bmuf sync after 25 iteration\n args = setup_args()\n args.warmup_iterations = 20\n args.global_sync_iter = 5\n iterations = 25\n self.bmuf_process(args, iterations)\n\n def assertAlmostEqual(self, t1, t2):\n self.assertEqual(t1.size(), t2.size(), \"size mismatch\")\n self.assertLess((t1 - t2).abs().max(), 1e-4)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n unittest.main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/tests/test_character_token_embedder.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\nimport unittest\n\nfrom fairseq.data import Dictionary\nfrom fairseq.modules import CharacterTokenEmbedder\n\n\nclass TestCharacterTokenEmbedder(unittest.TestCase):\n def test_character_token_embedder(self):\n vocab = Dictionary()\n vocab.add_symbol(\"hello\")\n vocab.add_symbol(\"there\")\n\n embedder = CharacterTokenEmbedder(\n vocab, [(2, 16), (4, 32), (8, 64), (16, 2)], 64, 5, 2\n )\n\n test_sents = [[\"hello\", \"unk\", \"there\"], [\"there\"], [\"hello\", \"there\"]]\n max_len = max(len(s) for s in test_sents)\n input = torch.LongTensor(len(test_sents), max_len + 2).fill_(vocab.pad())\n for i in range(len(test_sents)):\n input[i][0] = vocab.eos()\n for j in range(len(test_sents[i])):\n input[i][j + 1] = vocab.index(test_sents[i][j])\n input[i][j + 2] = vocab.eos()\n embs = embedder(input)\n\n assert embs.size() == (len(test_sents), max_len + 2, 5)\n self.assertAlmostEqual(embs[0][0], embs[1][0])\n self.assertAlmostEqual(embs[0][0], embs[0][-1])\n self.assertAlmostEqual(embs[0][1], embs[2][1])\n self.assertAlmostEqual(embs[0][3], embs[1][1])\n\n embs.sum().backward()\n assert embedder.char_embeddings.weight.grad is not None\n\n def assertAlmostEqual(self, t1, t2):\n self.assertEqual(t1.size(), t2.size(), \"size mismatch\")\n self.assertLess((t1 - t2).abs().max(), 1e-6)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n unittest.main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/tests/test_concat_dataset.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport unittest\n\nimport torch\nfrom fairseq.data import LanguagePairDataset, TokenBlockDataset\nfrom fairseq.data.concat_dataset import ConcatDataset\nfrom tests.test_train import mock_dict\n\n\nclass TestConcatDataset(unittest.TestCase):\n def setUp(self):\n d = mock_dict()\n tokens_1 = torch.LongTensor([1]).view(1, -1)\n tokens_ds1 = TokenBlockDataset(\n tokens_1,\n sizes=[tokens_1.size(-1)],\n block_size=1,\n pad=0,\n eos=1,\n include_targets=False,\n )\n self.dataset_1 = LanguagePairDataset(\n tokens_ds1, tokens_ds1.sizes, d, shuffle=False\n )\n tokens_2 = torch.LongTensor([2]).view(1, -1)\n tokens_ds2 = TokenBlockDataset(\n tokens_2,\n sizes=[tokens_2.size(-1)],\n block_size=1,\n pad=0,\n eos=1,\n include_targets=False,\n )\n self.dataset_2 = LanguagePairDataset(\n tokens_ds2, tokens_ds2.sizes, d, shuffle=False\n )\n\n def test_concat_dataset_basics(self):\n d = ConcatDataset([self.dataset_1, self.dataset_2])\n assert len(d) == 2\n assert d[0][\"source\"][0] == 1\n assert d[1][\"source\"][0] == 2\n\n d = ConcatDataset([self.dataset_1, self.dataset_2], sample_ratios=[1, 2])\n assert len(d) == 3\n assert d[0][\"source\"][0] == 1\n assert d[1][\"source\"][0] == 2\n assert d[2][\"source\"][0] == 2\n\n d = ConcatDataset([self.dataset_1, self.dataset_2], sample_ratios=[2, 1])\n assert len(d) == 3\n assert d[0][\"source\"][0] == 1\n assert d[1][\"source\"][0] == 1\n assert d[2][\"source\"][0] == 2\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/tests/test_convtbc.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\nimport unittest\nfrom fairseq.modules import ConvTBC\nimport torch.nn as nn\n\n\nclass TestConvTBC(unittest.TestCase):\n def test_convtbc(self):\n # ksz, in_channels, out_channels\n conv_tbc = ConvTBC(4, 5, kernel_size=3, padding=1)\n # out_channels, in_channels, ksz\n conv1d = nn.Conv1d(4, 5, kernel_size=3, padding=1)\n\n conv_tbc.weight.data.copy_(conv1d.weight.data.transpose(0, 2))\n conv_tbc.bias.data.copy_(conv1d.bias.data)\n\n input_tbc = torch.randn(7, 2, 4, requires_grad=True)\n input1d = input_tbc.data.transpose(0, 1).transpose(1, 2)\n input1d.requires_grad = True\n\n output_tbc = conv_tbc(input_tbc)\n output1d = conv1d(input1d)\n\n self.assertAlmostEqual(\n output_tbc.data.transpose(0, 1).transpose(1, 2), output1d.data\n )\n\n grad_tbc = torch.randn(output_tbc.size())\n grad1d = grad_tbc.transpose(0, 1).transpose(1, 2).contiguous()\n\n output_tbc.backward(grad_tbc)\n output1d.backward(grad1d)\n\n self.assertAlmostEqual(\n conv_tbc.weight.grad.data.transpose(0, 2), conv1d.weight.grad.data\n )\n self.assertAlmostEqual(conv_tbc.bias.grad.data, conv1d.bias.grad.data)\n self.assertAlmostEqual(\n input_tbc.grad.data.transpose(0, 1).transpose(1, 2), input1d.grad.data\n )\n\n def assertAlmostEqual(self, t1, t2):\n self.assertEqual(t1.size(), t2.size(), \"size mismatch\")\n self.assertLess((t1 - t2).abs().max(), 1e-4)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n unittest.main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/tests/test_dictionary.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport tempfile\nimport unittest\n\nimport torch\n\nfrom fairseq.data import Dictionary\n\n\nclass TestDictionary(unittest.TestCase):\n def test_finalize(self):\n txt = [\n \"A B C D\",\n \"B C D\",\n \"C D\",\n \"D\",\n ]\n ref_ids1 = list(\n map(torch.IntTensor, [[4, 5, 6, 7, 2], [5, 6, 7, 2], [6, 7, 2], [7, 2],])\n )\n ref_ids2 = list(\n map(torch.IntTensor, [[7, 6, 5, 4, 2], [6, 5, 4, 2], [5, 4, 2], [4, 2],])\n )\n\n # build dictionary\n d = Dictionary()\n for line in txt:\n d.encode_line(line, add_if_not_exist=True)\n\n def get_ids(dictionary):\n ids = []\n for line in txt:\n ids.append(dictionary.encode_line(line, add_if_not_exist=False))\n return ids\n\n def assertMatch(ids, ref_ids):\n for toks, ref_toks in zip(ids, ref_ids):\n self.assertEqual(toks.size(), ref_toks.size())\n self.assertEqual(0, (toks != ref_toks).sum().item())\n\n ids = get_ids(d)\n assertMatch(ids, ref_ids1)\n\n # check finalized dictionary\n d.finalize()\n finalized_ids = get_ids(d)\n assertMatch(finalized_ids, ref_ids2)\n\n # write to disk and reload\n with tempfile.NamedTemporaryFile(mode=\"w\") as tmp_dict:\n d.save(tmp_dict.name)\n d = Dictionary.load(tmp_dict.name)\n reload_ids = get_ids(d)\n assertMatch(reload_ids, ref_ids2)\n assertMatch(finalized_ids, reload_ids)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n unittest.main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/tests/test_iterators.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport unittest\n\nfrom fairseq.data import iterators\n\n\nclass TestIterators(unittest.TestCase):\n def test_counting_iterator(self):\n x = list(range(10))\n itr = iterators.CountingIterator(x)\n self.assertTrue(itr.has_next())\n self.assertEqual(next(itr), 0)\n self.assertEqual(next(itr), 1)\n itr.skip(3)\n self.assertEqual(next(itr), 5)\n itr.skip(3)\n self.assertEqual(next(itr), 9)\n self.assertFalse(itr.has_next())\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n unittest.main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/tests/test_label_smoothing.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport argparse\nimport copy\nimport unittest\n\nimport torch\n\nfrom fairseq.criterions.cross_entropy import CrossEntropyCriterion\nfrom fairseq.criterions.label_smoothed_cross_entropy import (\n LabelSmoothedCrossEntropyCriterion,\n)\n\nimport tests.utils as test_utils\n\n\nclass TestLabelSmoothing(unittest.TestCase):\n def setUp(self):\n # build dictionary\n self.d = test_utils.dummy_dictionary(3)\n vocab = len(self.d)\n self.assertEqual(vocab, 4 + 3) # 4 special + 3 tokens\n self.assertEqual(self.d.pad(), 1)\n self.assertEqual(self.d.eos(), 2)\n self.assertEqual(self.d.unk(), 3)\n pad, eos, unk, w1, w2, w3 = 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 # noqa: F841\n\n # build dataset\n self.data = [\n # the first batch item has padding\n {\n \"source\": torch.LongTensor([w1, eos]),\n \"target\": torch.LongTensor([w1, eos]),\n },\n {\n \"source\": torch.LongTensor([w1, eos]),\n \"target\": torch.LongTensor([w1, w1, eos]),\n },\n ]\n self.sample = next(test_utils.dummy_dataloader(self.data))\n\n # build model\n self.args = argparse.Namespace()\n self.args.sentence_avg = False\n self.args.probs = (\n torch.FloatTensor(\n [\n # pad eos unk w1 w2 w3\n [0.05, 0.05, 0.1, 0.05, 0.3, 0.4, 0.05],\n [0.05, 0.10, 0.2, 0.05, 0.2, 0.3, 0.10],\n [0.05, 0.15, 0.3, 0.05, 0.1, 0.2, 0.15],\n ]\n )\n .unsqueeze(0)\n .expand(2, 3, 7)\n ) # add batch dimension\n self.task = test_utils.TestTranslationTask.setup_task(self.args, self.d, self.d)\n self.model = self.task.build_model(self.args)\n\n def test_nll_loss(self):\n self.args.label_smoothing = 0.1\n nll_crit = CrossEntropyCriterion(self.args, self.task)\n smooth_crit = LabelSmoothedCrossEntropyCriterion(self.args, self.task)\n nll_loss, nll_sample_size, nll_logging_output = nll_crit(\n self.model, self.sample\n )\n smooth_loss, smooth_sample_size, smooth_logging_output = smooth_crit(\n self.model, self.sample\n )\n self.assertLess(abs(nll_loss - nll_logging_output[\"loss\"]), 1e-6)\n self.assertLess(abs(nll_loss - smooth_logging_output[\"nll_loss\"]), 1e-6)\n\n def test_padding(self):\n self.args.label_smoothing = 0.1\n crit = LabelSmoothedCrossEntropyCriterion(self.args, self.task)\n loss, _, logging_output = crit(self.model, self.sample)\n\n def get_one_no_padding(idx):\n # create a new sample with just a single batch item so that there's\n # no padding\n sample1 = next(test_utils.dummy_dataloader([self.data[idx]]))\n args1 = copy.copy(self.args)\n args1.probs = args1.probs[idx, :, :].unsqueeze(0)\n model1 = self.task.build_model(args1)\n loss1, _, _ = crit(model1, sample1)\n return loss1\n\n loss1 = get_one_no_padding(0)\n loss2 = get_one_no_padding(1)\n self.assertAlmostEqual(loss, loss1 + loss2)\n\n def test_reduction(self):\n self.args.label_smoothing = 0.1\n crit = LabelSmoothedCrossEntropyCriterion(self.args, self.task)\n loss, _, logging_output = crit(self.model, self.sample, reduce=True)\n unreduced_loss, _, _ = crit(self.model, self.sample, reduce=False)\n self.assertAlmostEqual(loss, unreduced_loss.sum())\n\n def test_zero_eps(self):\n self.args.label_smoothing = 0.0\n nll_crit = CrossEntropyCriterion(self.args, self.task)\n smooth_crit = LabelSmoothedCrossEntropyCriterion(self.args, self.task)\n nll_loss, nll_sample_size, nll_logging_output = nll_crit(\n self.model, self.sample\n )\n smooth_loss, smooth_sample_size, smooth_logging_output = smooth_crit(\n self.model, self.sample\n )\n self.assertAlmostEqual(nll_loss, smooth_loss)\n\n def assertAlmostEqual(self, t1, t2):\n self.assertEqual(t1.size(), t2.size(), \"size mismatch\")\n self.assertLess((t1 - t2).abs().max(), 1e-6)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n unittest.main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/tests/test_memory_efficient_fp16.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport argparse\nimport unittest\n\nimport torch\n\nfrom fairseq.optim.adam import FairseqAdam\nfrom fairseq.optim.fp16_optimizer import MemoryEfficientFP16Optimizer\n\n\nclass TestMemoryEfficientFP16(unittest.TestCase):\n def test_load_state_dict(self):\n # define simple FP16 model\n model = torch.nn.Linear(5, 5).cuda().half()\n params = list(model.parameters())\n\n # initialize memory efficient FP16 optimizer\n optimizer = FairseqAdam(\n argparse.Namespace(\n lr=[0.00001],\n adam_betas=\"(0.9, 0.999)\",\n adam_eps=1e-8,\n weight_decay=0.0,\n ),\n params,\n )\n me_optimizer = MemoryEfficientFP16Optimizer(\n argparse.Namespace(\n fp16_init_scale=1,\n fp16_scale_window=1,\n fp16_scale_tolerance=1,\n threshold_loss_scale=1,\n min_loss_scale=1e-4,\n ),\n params,\n optimizer,\n )\n\n # optimizer state is created in the first step\n loss = model(torch.rand(5).cuda().half()).sum()\n me_optimizer.backward(loss)\n me_optimizer.step()\n\n # reload state\n state = me_optimizer.state_dict()\n me_optimizer.load_state_dict(state)\n for k, v in me_optimizer.optimizer.state.items():\n self.assertTrue(k.dtype == torch.float16)\n for v_i in v.values():\n if torch.is_tensor(v_i):\n self.assertTrue(v_i.dtype == torch.float32)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n unittest.main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/tests/test_multi_corpus_sampled_dataset.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport unittest\nfrom collections import OrderedDict\n\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nfrom fairseq.data import LanguagePairDataset, TokenBlockDataset\nfrom fairseq.data.multi_corpus_sampled_dataset import MultiCorpusSampledDataset\nfrom tests.test_train import mock_dict\n\n\nclass TestMultiCorpusSampledDataset(unittest.TestCase):\n def setUp(self):\n d = mock_dict()\n tokens_1 = torch.LongTensor([1]).view(1, -1)\n tokens_ds1 = TokenBlockDataset(\n tokens_1,\n sizes=[tokens_1.size(-1)],\n block_size=1,\n pad=0,\n eos=1,\n include_targets=False,\n )\n self.dataset_1 = LanguagePairDataset(\n tokens_ds1, tokens_ds1.sizes, d, shuffle=False\n )\n tokens_2 = torch.LongTensor([2]).view(1, -1)\n tokens_ds2 = TokenBlockDataset(\n tokens_2,\n sizes=[tokens_2.size(-1)],\n block_size=1,\n pad=0,\n eos=1,\n include_targets=False,\n )\n self.dataset_2 = LanguagePairDataset(\n tokens_ds2, tokens_ds2.sizes, d, shuffle=False\n )\n\n def _test_sample_helper(\n self,\n expected_sample_from_first_ds_percentage,\n num_samples=1000,\n sampling_func=None,\n ):\n # To make sure test is not flaky\n np.random.seed(0)\n if sampling_func is None:\n m = MultiCorpusSampledDataset(\n OrderedDict({0: self.dataset_1, 1: self.dataset_2}),\n )\n else:\n m = MultiCorpusSampledDataset(\n OrderedDict({0: self.dataset_1, 1: self.dataset_2}),\n sampling_func=sampling_func,\n )\n m.ordered_indices()\n count_sample_from_first_dataset = 0\n for _ in range(num_samples):\n if m.collater([m[0], m[1]])[\"net_input\"][\"src_tokens\"][0] == 1:\n count_sample_from_first_dataset += 1\n sample_from_first_ds_percentage = (\n 1.0 * count_sample_from_first_dataset / num_samples\n )\n self.assertLess(\n abs(\n sample_from_first_ds_percentage\n - expected_sample_from_first_ds_percentage\n ),\n 0.01,\n )\n\n def test_multi_corpus_sampled_dataset_uniform_sample(self):\n self._test_sample_helper(expected_sample_from_first_ds_percentage=0.5)\n\n def test_multi_corpus_sampled_dataset_weighted_sample(self):\n def naive_weighted_sample(weights):\n def f(l):\n v = np.random.random()\n agg = 0\n for i, weight in enumerate(weights):\n agg += weight\n if agg > v:\n return i\n\n return f\n\n self._test_sample_helper(\n expected_sample_from_first_ds_percentage=0.9,\n sampling_func=naive_weighted_sample(weights=[0.9, 0.1]),\n )\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/tests/test_multihead_attention.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\nimport unittest\nfrom fairseq.modules.multihead_attention import MultiheadAttention\n\n\nclass TestMultiheadAttention(unittest.TestCase):\n def test_append_prev_key_padding_mask(self):\n bsz = 1\n src_len = 4\n\n cases = [\n # no padding mask\n (None, None, None),\n # current padding mask only\n (torch.tensor([[1]]).bool(), None, torch.tensor([[0, 0, 0, 1]]).bool(),),\n # previous padding mask only\n (\n None,\n torch.tensor([[0, 1, 0]]).bool(),\n torch.tensor([[0, 1, 0, 0]]).bool(),\n ),\n # both padding masks\n (\n torch.tensor([[1]]).bool(),\n torch.tensor([[0, 1, 0]]).bool(),\n torch.tensor([[0, 1, 0, 1]]).bool(),\n ),\n ]\n for c in cases:\n key_padding_mask = MultiheadAttention._append_prev_key_padding_mask(\n c[0], c[1], batch_size=bsz, src_len=src_len, static_kv=False,\n )\n\n if key_padding_mask is not None:\n self.assertTrue(\n torch.all(torch.eq(key_padding_mask, c[2])),\n f\"Unexpected resultant key padding mask: {key_padding_mask}\"\n f\" given current: {c[0]} and previous: {c[1]}\",\n )\n self.assertEqual(key_padding_mask.size(0), bsz)\n self.assertEqual(key_padding_mask.size(1), src_len)\n else:\n self.assertIsNone(c[2])\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n unittest.main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/tests/test_noising.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport unittest\nfrom typing import Dict, List\n\nimport tests.utils as test_utils\nimport torch\nfrom fairseq import utils\nfrom fairseq.data import (\n Dictionary,\n LanguagePairDataset,\n TransformEosDataset,\n data_utils,\n noising,\n)\n\n\nclass TestDataNoising(unittest.TestCase):\n def _get_test_data_with_bpe_cont_marker(self, append_eos=True):\n \"\"\"\n Args:\n append_eos: if True, each input sentence in the source tokens tensor\n will have an EOS appended to the end.\n\n Returns:\n vocabs: BPE vocab with continuation markers as suffixes to denote\n non-end of word tokens. This is the standard BPE format used in\n fairseq's preprocessing.\n x: input tensor containing numberized source tokens, with EOS at the\n end if append_eos is true\n src_lengths: and source lengths.\n \"\"\"\n vocab = Dictionary()\n vocab.add_symbol(\"he@@\")\n vocab.add_symbol(\"llo\")\n vocab.add_symbol(\"how\")\n vocab.add_symbol(\"are\")\n vocab.add_symbol(\"y@@\")\n vocab.add_symbol(\"ou\")\n vocab.add_symbol(\"n@@\")\n vocab.add_symbol(\"ew\")\n vocab.add_symbol(\"or@@\")\n vocab.add_symbol(\"k\")\n\n src_tokens = [\n [\"he@@\", \"llo\", \"n@@\", \"ew\", \"y@@\", \"or@@\", \"k\"],\n [\"how\", \"are\", \"y@@\", \"ou\"],\n ]\n x, src_lengths = x, src_lengths = self._convert_src_tokens_to_tensor(\n vocab=vocab, src_tokens=src_tokens, append_eos=append_eos\n )\n return vocab, x, src_lengths\n\n def _get_test_data_with_bpe_end_marker(self, append_eos=True):\n \"\"\"\n Args:\n append_eos: if True, each input sentence in the source tokens tensor\n will have an EOS appended to the end.\n\n Returns:\n vocabs: BPE vocab with end-of-word markers as suffixes to denote\n tokens at the end of a word. This is an alternative to fairseq's\n standard preprocessing framework and is not generally supported\n within fairseq.\n x: input tensor containing numberized source tokens, with EOS at the\n end if append_eos is true\n src_lengths: and source lengths.\n \"\"\"\n vocab = Dictionary()\n vocab.add_symbol(\"he\")\n vocab.add_symbol(\"llo_EOW\")\n vocab.add_symbol(\"how_EOW\")\n vocab.add_symbol(\"are_EOW\")\n vocab.add_symbol(\"y\")\n vocab.add_symbol(\"ou_EOW\")\n vocab.add_symbol(\"n\")\n vocab.add_symbol(\"ew_EOW\")\n vocab.add_symbol(\"or\")\n vocab.add_symbol(\"k_EOW\")\n\n src_tokens = [\n [\"he\", \"llo_EOW\", \"n\", \"ew_EOW\", \"y\", \"or\", \"k_EOW\"],\n [\"how_EOW\", \"are_EOW\", \"y\", \"ou_EOW\"],\n ]\n x, src_lengths = x, src_lengths = self._convert_src_tokens_to_tensor(\n vocab=vocab, src_tokens=src_tokens, append_eos=append_eos\n )\n return vocab, x, src_lengths\n\n def _get_test_data_with_word_vocab(self, append_eos=True):\n \"\"\"\n Args:\n append_eos: if True, each input sentence in the source tokens tensor\n will have an EOS appended to the end.\n\n Returns:\n vocabs: word vocab\n x: input tensor containing numberized source tokens, with EOS at the\n end if append_eos is true\n src_lengths: and source lengths.\n \"\"\"\n vocab = Dictionary()\n\n vocab.add_symbol(\"hello\")\n vocab.add_symbol(\"how\")\n vocab.add_symbol(\"are\")\n vocab.add_symbol(\"you\")\n vocab.add_symbol(\"new\")\n vocab.add_symbol(\"york\")\n src_tokens = [\n [\"hello\", \"new\", \"york\", \"you\"],\n [\"how\", \"are\", \"you\", \"new\", \"york\"],\n ]\n x, src_lengths = self._convert_src_tokens_to_tensor(\n vocab=vocab, src_tokens=src_tokens, append_eos=append_eos\n )\n return vocab, x, src_lengths\n\n def _convert_src_tokens_to_tensor(\n self, vocab: Dictionary, src_tokens: List[List[str]], append_eos: bool\n ):\n src_len = [len(x) for x in src_tokens]\n # If we have to append EOS, we include EOS in counting src length\n if append_eos:\n src_len = [length + 1 for length in src_len]\n\n x = torch.LongTensor(len(src_tokens), max(src_len)).fill_(vocab.pad())\n for i in range(len(src_tokens)):\n for j in range(len(src_tokens[i])):\n x[i][j] = vocab.index(src_tokens[i][j])\n if append_eos:\n x[i][j + 1] = vocab.eos()\n\n x = x.transpose(1, 0)\n return x, torch.LongTensor(src_len)\n\n def assert_eos_at_end(self, x, x_len, eos):\n \"\"\"Asserts last token of every sentence in x is EOS \"\"\"\n for i in range(len(x_len)):\n self.assertEqual(\n x[x_len[i] - 1][i],\n eos,\n (\n \"Expected eos (token id {eos}) at the end of sentence {i} \"\n \"but got {other} instead\"\n ).format(i=i, eos=eos, other=x[i][-1]),\n )\n\n def assert_word_dropout_correct(self, x, x_noised, x_len, l_noised):\n # Expect only the first word (2 bpe tokens) of the first example\n # was dropped out\n self.assertEqual(x_len[0] - 2, l_noised[0])\n for i in range(l_noised[0]):\n self.assertEqual(x_noised[i][0], x[i + 2][0])\n\n def test_word_dropout_with_eos(self):\n vocab, x, x_len = self._get_test_data_with_bpe_cont_marker(append_eos=True)\n\n with data_utils.numpy_seed(1234):\n noising_gen = noising.WordDropout(vocab)\n x_noised, l_noised = noising_gen.noising(x, x_len, 0.2)\n self.assert_word_dropout_correct(\n x=x, x_noised=x_noised, x_len=x_len, l_noised=l_noised\n )\n self.assert_eos_at_end(x=x_noised, x_len=l_noised, eos=vocab.eos())\n\n def assert_word_blanking_correct(self, x, x_noised, x_len, l_noised, unk):\n # Expect only the first word (2 bpe tokens) of the first example\n # was blanked out\n self.assertEqual(x_len[0], l_noised[0])\n for i in range(l_noised[0]):\n if i < 2:\n self.assertEqual(x_noised[i][0], unk)\n else:\n self.assertEqual(x_noised[i][0], x[i][0])\n\n def test_word_blank_with_eos(self):\n vocab, x, x_len = self._get_test_data_with_bpe_cont_marker(append_eos=True)\n\n with data_utils.numpy_seed(1234):\n noising_gen = noising.WordDropout(vocab)\n x_noised, l_noised = noising_gen.noising(x, x_len, 0.2, vocab.unk())\n self.assert_word_blanking_correct(\n x=x, x_noised=x_noised, x_len=x_len, l_noised=l_noised, unk=vocab.unk()\n )\n self.assert_eos_at_end(x=x_noised, x_len=l_noised, eos=vocab.eos())\n\n def generate_unchanged_shuffle_map(self, length):\n return {i: i for i in range(length)}\n\n def assert_word_shuffle_matches_expected(\n self,\n x,\n x_len,\n max_shuffle_distance: int,\n vocab: Dictionary,\n expected_shufle_maps: List[Dict[int, int]],\n expect_eos_at_end: bool,\n bpe_end_marker=None,\n ):\n \"\"\"\n This verifies that with a given x, x_len, max_shuffle_distance, and\n vocab, we get the expected shuffle result.\n\n Args:\n x: Tensor of shape (T x B) = (sequence_length, batch_size)\n x_len: Tensor of length B = batch_size\n max_shuffle_distance: arg to pass to noising\n expected_shuffle_maps: List[mapping] where mapping is a\n Dict[old_index, new_index], mapping x's elements from their\n old positions in x to their new positions in x.\n expect_eos_at_end: if True, check the output to make sure there is\n an EOS at the end.\n bpe_end_marker: str denoting the BPE end token. If this is not None, we\n set the BPE cont token to None in the noising classes.\n \"\"\"\n bpe_cont_marker = None\n if bpe_end_marker is None:\n bpe_cont_marker = \"@@\"\n\n with data_utils.numpy_seed(1234):\n word_shuffle = noising.WordShuffle(\n vocab, bpe_cont_marker=bpe_cont_marker, bpe_end_marker=bpe_end_marker\n )\n x_noised, l_noised = word_shuffle.noising(\n x, x_len, max_shuffle_distance=max_shuffle_distance\n )\n\n # For every example, we have a different expected shuffle map. We check\n # that each example is shuffled as expected according to each\n # corresponding shuffle map.\n for i in range(len(expected_shufle_maps)):\n shuffle_map = expected_shufle_maps[i]\n for k, v in shuffle_map.items():\n self.assertEqual(x[k][i], x_noised[v][i])\n\n # Shuffling should not affect the length of each example\n for pre_shuffle_length, post_shuffle_length in zip(x_len, l_noised):\n self.assertEqual(pre_shuffle_length, post_shuffle_length)\n if expect_eos_at_end:\n self.assert_eos_at_end(x=x_noised, x_len=l_noised, eos=vocab.eos())\n\n def test_word_shuffle_with_eos(self):\n vocab, x, x_len = self._get_test_data_with_bpe_cont_marker(append_eos=True)\n\n # Assert word shuffle with max shuffle distance 0 causes input to be\n # unchanged\n self.assert_word_shuffle_matches_expected(\n x=x,\n x_len=x_len,\n max_shuffle_distance=0,\n vocab=vocab,\n expected_shufle_maps=[\n self.generate_unchanged_shuffle_map(example_len)\n for example_len in x_len\n ],\n expect_eos_at_end=True,\n )\n\n # Assert word shuffle with max shuffle distance 3 matches our expected\n # shuffle order\n self.assert_word_shuffle_matches_expected(\n x=x,\n x_len=x_len,\n vocab=vocab,\n max_shuffle_distance=3,\n expected_shufle_maps=[\n self.generate_unchanged_shuffle_map(x_len[0]),\n {0: 0, 1: 3, 2: 1, 3: 2},\n ],\n expect_eos_at_end=True,\n )\n\n def test_word_shuffle_with_eos_nonbpe(self):\n \"\"\"The purpose of this is to test shuffling logic with word vocabs\"\"\"\n vocab, x, x_len = self._get_test_data_with_word_vocab(append_eos=True)\n\n # Assert word shuffle with max shuffle distance 0 causes input to be\n # unchanged\n self.assert_word_shuffle_matches_expected(\n x=x,\n x_len=x_len,\n max_shuffle_distance=0,\n vocab=vocab,\n expected_shufle_maps=[\n self.generate_unchanged_shuffle_map(example_len)\n for example_len in x_len\n ],\n expect_eos_at_end=True,\n )\n\n # Assert word shuffle with max shuffle distance 3 matches our expected\n # shuffle order\n self.assert_word_shuffle_matches_expected(\n x=x,\n x_len=x_len,\n vocab=vocab,\n max_shuffle_distance=3,\n expected_shufle_maps=[\n {0: 0, 1: 1, 2: 3, 3: 2},\n {0: 0, 1: 2, 2: 1, 3: 3, 4: 4},\n ],\n expect_eos_at_end=True,\n )\n\n def test_word_shuffle_without_eos(self):\n \"\"\"Same result as word shuffle with eos except no EOS at end\"\"\"\n vocab, x, x_len = self._get_test_data_with_bpe_cont_marker(append_eos=False)\n\n # Assert word shuffle with max shuffle distance 0 causes input to be\n # unchanged\n self.assert_word_shuffle_matches_expected(\n x=x,\n x_len=x_len,\n max_shuffle_distance=0,\n vocab=vocab,\n expected_shufle_maps=[\n self.generate_unchanged_shuffle_map(example_len)\n for example_len in x_len\n ],\n expect_eos_at_end=False,\n )\n\n # Assert word shuffle with max shuffle distance 3 matches our expected\n # shuffle order\n self.assert_word_shuffle_matches_expected(\n x=x,\n x_len=x_len,\n vocab=vocab,\n max_shuffle_distance=3,\n expected_shufle_maps=[\n self.generate_unchanged_shuffle_map(x_len[0]),\n {0: 0, 1: 3, 2: 1, 3: 2},\n ],\n expect_eos_at_end=False,\n )\n\n def test_word_shuffle_without_eos_with_bpe_end_marker(self):\n \"\"\"Same result as word shuffle without eos except using BPE end token\"\"\"\n vocab, x, x_len = self._get_test_data_with_bpe_end_marker(append_eos=False)\n\n # Assert word shuffle with max shuffle distance 0 causes input to be\n # unchanged\n self.assert_word_shuffle_matches_expected(\n x=x,\n x_len=x_len,\n max_shuffle_distance=0,\n vocab=vocab,\n expected_shufle_maps=[\n self.generate_unchanged_shuffle_map(example_len)\n for example_len in x_len\n ],\n expect_eos_at_end=False,\n bpe_end_marker=\"_EOW\",\n )\n\n # Assert word shuffle with max shuffle distance 3 matches our expected\n # shuffle order\n self.assert_word_shuffle_matches_expected(\n x=x,\n x_len=x_len,\n vocab=vocab,\n max_shuffle_distance=3,\n expected_shufle_maps=[\n self.generate_unchanged_shuffle_map(x_len[0]),\n {0: 0, 1: 3, 2: 1, 3: 2},\n ],\n expect_eos_at_end=False,\n bpe_end_marker=\"_EOW\",\n )\n\n def assert_no_eos_at_end(self, x, x_len, eos):\n \"\"\"Asserts that the last token of each sentence in x is not EOS \"\"\"\n for i in range(len(x_len)):\n self.assertNotEqual(\n x[x_len[i] - 1][i],\n eos,\n \"Expected no eos (token id {eos}) at the end of sentence {i}.\".format(\n eos=eos, i=i\n ),\n )\n\n def test_word_dropout_without_eos(self):\n \"\"\"Same result as word dropout with eos except no EOS at end\"\"\"\n vocab, x, x_len = self._get_test_data_with_bpe_cont_marker(append_eos=False)\n\n with data_utils.numpy_seed(1234):\n noising_gen = noising.WordDropout(vocab)\n x_noised, l_noised = noising_gen.noising(x, x_len, 0.2)\n self.assert_word_dropout_correct(\n x=x, x_noised=x_noised, x_len=x_len, l_noised=l_noised\n )\n self.assert_no_eos_at_end(x=x_noised, x_len=l_noised, eos=vocab.eos())\n\n def test_word_blank_without_eos(self):\n \"\"\"Same result as word blank with eos except no EOS at end\"\"\"\n vocab, x, x_len = self._get_test_data_with_bpe_cont_marker(append_eos=False)\n\n with data_utils.numpy_seed(1234):\n noising_gen = noising.WordDropout(vocab)\n x_noised, l_noised = noising_gen.noising(x, x_len, 0.2, vocab.unk())\n self.assert_word_blanking_correct(\n x=x, x_noised=x_noised, x_len=x_len, l_noised=l_noised, unk=vocab.unk()\n )\n self.assert_no_eos_at_end(x=x_noised, x_len=l_noised, eos=vocab.eos())\n\n def _get_noising_dataset_batch(\n self, src_tokens_no_pad, src_dict, append_eos_to_tgt=False,\n ):\n \"\"\"\n Constructs a NoisingDataset and the corresponding\n ``LanguagePairDataset(NoisingDataset(src), src)``. If\n *append_eos_to_tgt* is True, wrap the source dataset in\n :class:`TransformEosDataset` to append EOS to the clean source when\n using it as the target.\n \"\"\"\n src_dataset = test_utils.TestDataset(data=src_tokens_no_pad)\n\n noising_dataset = noising.NoisingDataset(\n src_dataset=src_dataset,\n src_dict=src_dict,\n seed=1234,\n max_word_shuffle_distance=3,\n word_dropout_prob=0.2,\n word_blanking_prob=0.2,\n noising_class=noising.UnsupervisedMTNoising,\n )\n tgt = src_dataset\n language_pair_dataset = LanguagePairDataset(\n src=noising_dataset, tgt=tgt, src_sizes=None, src_dict=src_dict\n )\n language_pair_dataset = TransformEosDataset(\n language_pair_dataset, src_dict.eos(), append_eos_to_tgt=append_eos_to_tgt,\n )\n\n dataloader = torch.utils.data.DataLoader(\n dataset=language_pair_dataset,\n batch_size=2,\n collate_fn=language_pair_dataset.collater,\n )\n denoising_batch_result = next(iter(dataloader))\n return denoising_batch_result\n\n def test_noising_dataset_with_eos(self):\n src_dict, src_tokens, _ = self._get_test_data_with_bpe_cont_marker(\n append_eos=True\n )\n\n # Format data for src_dataset\n src_tokens = torch.t(src_tokens)\n src_tokens_no_pad = []\n for src_sentence in src_tokens:\n src_tokens_no_pad.append(\n utils.strip_pad(tensor=src_sentence, pad=src_dict.pad())\n )\n denoising_batch_result = self._get_noising_dataset_batch(\n src_tokens_no_pad=src_tokens_no_pad, src_dict=src_dict\n )\n\n eos, pad = src_dict.eos(), src_dict.pad()\n\n # Generated noisy source as source\n expected_src = torch.LongTensor(\n [[4, 5, 10, 11, 8, 12, 13, eos], [pad, pad, pad, 6, 8, 9, 7, eos]]\n )\n # Original clean source as target (right-padded)\n expected_tgt = torch.LongTensor(\n [[4, 5, 10, 11, 8, 12, 13, eos], [6, 7, 8, 9, eos, pad, pad, pad]]\n )\n generated_src = denoising_batch_result[\"net_input\"][\"src_tokens\"]\n tgt_tokens = denoising_batch_result[\"target\"]\n\n self.assertTensorEqual(expected_src, generated_src)\n self.assertTensorEqual(expected_tgt, tgt_tokens)\n\n def test_noising_dataset_without_eos(self):\n \"\"\"\n Similar to test noising dataset with eos except that we have to set\n *append_eos_to_tgt* to ``True``.\n \"\"\"\n\n src_dict, src_tokens, _ = self._get_test_data_with_bpe_cont_marker(\n append_eos=False\n )\n\n # Format data for src_dataset\n src_tokens = torch.t(src_tokens)\n src_tokens_no_pad = []\n for src_sentence in src_tokens:\n src_tokens_no_pad.append(\n utils.strip_pad(tensor=src_sentence, pad=src_dict.pad())\n )\n denoising_batch_result = self._get_noising_dataset_batch(\n src_tokens_no_pad=src_tokens_no_pad,\n src_dict=src_dict,\n append_eos_to_tgt=True,\n )\n\n eos, pad = src_dict.eos(), src_dict.pad()\n\n # Generated noisy source as source\n expected_src = torch.LongTensor(\n [[4, 5, 10, 11, 8, 12, 13], [pad, pad, pad, 6, 8, 9, 7]]\n )\n # Original clean source as target (right-padded)\n expected_tgt = torch.LongTensor(\n [[4, 5, 10, 11, 8, 12, 13, eos], [6, 7, 8, 9, eos, pad, pad, pad]]\n )\n\n generated_src = denoising_batch_result[\"net_input\"][\"src_tokens\"]\n tgt_tokens = denoising_batch_result[\"target\"]\n\n self.assertTensorEqual(expected_src, generated_src)\n self.assertTensorEqual(expected_tgt, tgt_tokens)\n\n def assertTensorEqual(self, t1, t2):\n self.assertEqual(t1.size(), t2.size(), \"size mismatch\")\n self.assertEqual(t1.ne(t2).long().sum(), 0)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n unittest.main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/tests/test_reproducibility.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport contextlib\nfrom io import StringIO\nimport json\nimport os\nimport tempfile\nimport unittest\n\nfrom . import test_binaries\n\n\nclass TestReproducibility(unittest.TestCase):\n def _test_reproducibility(self, name, extra_flags=None):\n if extra_flags is None:\n extra_flags = []\n\n with tempfile.TemporaryDirectory(name) as data_dir:\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n test_binaries.create_dummy_data(data_dir)\n test_binaries.preprocess_translation_data(data_dir)\n\n # train epochs 1 and 2 together\n stdout = StringIO()\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(stdout):\n test_binaries.train_translation_model(\n data_dir,\n \"fconv_iwslt_de_en\",\n [\n \"--dropout\",\n \"0.0\",\n \"--log-format\",\n \"json\",\n \"--log-interval\",\n \"1\",\n \"--max-epoch\",\n \"3\",\n ]\n + extra_flags,\n )\n stdout = stdout.getvalue()\n train_log, valid_log = map(json.loads, stdout.split(\"\\n\")[-5:-3])\n\n # train epoch 2, resuming from previous checkpoint 1\n os.rename(\n os.path.join(data_dir, \"checkpoint1.pt\"),\n os.path.join(data_dir, \"checkpoint_last.pt\"),\n )\n stdout = StringIO()\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(stdout):\n test_binaries.train_translation_model(\n data_dir,\n \"fconv_iwslt_de_en\",\n [\n \"--dropout\",\n \"0.0\",\n \"--log-format\",\n \"json\",\n \"--log-interval\",\n \"1\",\n \"--max-epoch\",\n \"3\",\n ]\n + extra_flags,\n )\n stdout = stdout.getvalue()\n train_res_log, valid_res_log = map(json.loads, stdout.split(\"\\n\")[-5:-3])\n\n def cast(s):\n return round(float(s), 3)\n\n for k in [\"train_loss\", \"train_ppl\", \"train_num_updates\", \"train_gnorm\"]:\n self.assertEqual(cast(train_log[k]), cast(train_res_log[k]))\n for k in [\n \"valid_loss\",\n \"valid_ppl\",\n \"valid_num_updates\",\n \"valid_best_loss\",\n ]:\n self.assertEqual(cast(valid_log[k]), cast(valid_res_log[k]))\n\n def test_reproducibility(self):\n self._test_reproducibility(\"test_reproducibility\")\n\n def test_reproducibility_fp16(self):\n self._test_reproducibility(\n \"test_reproducibility_fp16\", [\"--fp16\", \"--fp16-init-scale\", \"4096\",]\n )\n\n def test_reproducibility_memory_efficient_fp16(self):\n self._test_reproducibility(\n \"test_reproducibility_memory_efficient_fp16\",\n [\"--memory-efficient-fp16\", \"--fp16-init-scale\", \"4096\",],\n )\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n unittest.main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/tests/test_resampling_dataset.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport collections\nimport unittest\n\nimport numpy as np\n\nfrom fairseq.data import ListDataset, ResamplingDataset\n\n\nclass TestResamplingDataset(unittest.TestCase):\n def setUp(self):\n self.strings = [\"ab\", \"c\", \"def\", \"ghij\"]\n self.weights = [4.0, 2.0, 7.0, 1.5]\n self.size_ratio = 2\n self.dataset = ListDataset(\n self.strings, np.array([len(s) for s in self.strings])\n )\n\n def _test_common(self, resampling_dataset, iters):\n assert len(self.dataset) == len(self.strings) == len(self.weights)\n assert len(resampling_dataset) == self.size_ratio * len(self.strings)\n\n results = {\"ordered_by_size\": True, \"max_distribution_diff\": 0.0}\n\n totalfreqs = 0\n freqs = collections.defaultdict(int)\n\n for epoch_num in range(iters):\n resampling_dataset.set_epoch(epoch_num)\n\n indices = resampling_dataset.ordered_indices()\n assert len(indices) == len(resampling_dataset)\n\n prev_size = -1\n\n for i in indices:\n cur_size = resampling_dataset.size(i)\n # Make sure indices map to same sequences within an epoch\n assert resampling_dataset[i] == resampling_dataset[i]\n\n # Make sure length of sequence is correct\n assert cur_size == len(resampling_dataset[i])\n\n freqs[resampling_dataset[i]] += 1\n totalfreqs += 1\n\n if prev_size > cur_size:\n results[\"ordered_by_size\"] = False\n\n prev_size = cur_size\n\n assert set(freqs.keys()) == set(self.strings)\n for s, weight in zip(self.strings, self.weights):\n freq = freqs[s] / totalfreqs\n expected_freq = weight / sum(self.weights)\n results[\"max_distribution_diff\"] = max(\n results[\"max_distribution_diff\"], abs(expected_freq - freq)\n )\n\n return results\n\n def test_resampling_dataset_batch_by_size_false(self):\n resampling_dataset = ResamplingDataset(\n self.dataset,\n self.weights,\n size_ratio=self.size_ratio,\n batch_by_size=False,\n seed=0,\n )\n\n results = self._test_common(resampling_dataset, iters=1000)\n\n # For batch_by_size = False, the batches should be returned in\n # arbitrary order of size.\n assert not results[\"ordered_by_size\"]\n\n # Allow tolerance in distribution error of 2%.\n assert results[\"max_distribution_diff\"] < 0.02\n\n def test_resampling_dataset_batch_by_size_true(self):\n resampling_dataset = ResamplingDataset(\n self.dataset,\n self.weights,\n size_ratio=self.size_ratio,\n batch_by_size=True,\n seed=0,\n )\n\n results = self._test_common(resampling_dataset, iters=1000)\n\n # For batch_by_size = True, the batches should be returned in\n # increasing order of size.\n assert results[\"ordered_by_size\"]\n\n # Allow tolerance in distribution error of 2%.\n assert results[\"max_distribution_diff\"] < 0.02\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n unittest.main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/tests/test_sequence_generator.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport argparse\nimport unittest\n\nimport torch\n\nfrom fairseq.sequence_generator import SequenceGenerator\n\nimport tests.utils as test_utils\n\n\nclass TestSequenceGeneratorBase(unittest.TestCase):\n def assertHypoTokens(self, hypo, tokens):\n self.assertTensorEqual(hypo[\"tokens\"], torch.LongTensor(tokens))\n\n def assertHypoScore(self, hypo, pos_probs, normalized=True, lenpen=1.0):\n pos_scores = torch.FloatTensor(pos_probs).log()\n self.assertAlmostEqual(hypo[\"positional_scores\"], pos_scores)\n self.assertEqual(pos_scores.numel(), hypo[\"tokens\"].numel())\n score = pos_scores.sum()\n if normalized:\n score /= pos_scores.numel() ** lenpen\n self.assertLess(abs(score - hypo[\"score\"]), 1e-6)\n\n def assertAlmostEqual(self, t1, t2):\n self.assertEqual(t1.size(), t2.size(), \"size mismatch\")\n self.assertLess((t1 - t2).abs().max(), 1e-4)\n\n def assertTensorEqual(self, t1, t2):\n self.assertEqual(t1.size(), t2.size(), \"size mismatch\")\n self.assertEqual(t1.ne(t2).long().sum(), 0)\n\n\nclass TestSequenceGenerator(TestSequenceGeneratorBase):\n def setUp(self):\n (\n self.tgt_dict,\n self.w1,\n self.w2,\n src_tokens,\n src_lengths,\n self.model,\n ) = test_utils.sequence_generator_setup()\n self.sample = {\n \"net_input\": {\"src_tokens\": src_tokens, \"src_lengths\": src_lengths,},\n }\n\n def test_with_normalization(self):\n generator = SequenceGenerator(self.tgt_dict, beam_size=2)\n hypos = generator.generate([self.model], self.sample)\n eos, w1, w2 = self.tgt_dict.eos(), self.w1, self.w2\n # sentence 1, beam 1\n self.assertHypoTokens(hypos[0][0], [w1, eos])\n self.assertHypoScore(hypos[0][0], [0.9, 1.0])\n # sentence 1, beam 2\n self.assertHypoTokens(hypos[0][1], [w2, w1, w2, eos])\n self.assertHypoScore(hypos[0][1], [0.1, 0.9, 0.9, 1.0])\n # sentence 2, beam 1\n self.assertHypoTokens(hypos[1][0], [w1, w2, w1, eos])\n self.assertHypoScore(hypos[1][0], [0.7, 0.4, 0.4, 1.0])\n # sentence 2, beam 2\n self.assertHypoTokens(hypos[1][1], [w1, w2, eos])\n self.assertHypoScore(hypos[1][1], [0.7, 0.4, 0.6])\n\n def test_without_normalization(self):\n # Sentence 1: unchanged from the normalized case\n # Sentence 2: beams swap order\n generator = SequenceGenerator(\n self.tgt_dict, beam_size=2, normalize_scores=False\n )\n hypos = generator.generate([self.model], self.sample)\n eos, w1, w2 = self.tgt_dict.eos(), self.w1, self.w2\n # sentence 1, beam 1\n self.assertHypoTokens(hypos[0][0], [w1, eos])\n self.assertHypoScore(hypos[0][0], [0.9, 1.0], normalized=False)\n # sentence 1, beam 2\n self.assertHypoTokens(hypos[0][1], [w2, w1, w2, eos])\n self.assertHypoScore(hypos[0][1], [0.1, 0.9, 0.9, 1.0], normalized=False)\n # sentence 2, beam 1\n self.assertHypoTokens(hypos[1][0], [w1, w2, eos])\n self.assertHypoScore(hypos[1][0], [0.7, 0.4, 0.6], normalized=False)\n # sentence 2, beam 2\n self.assertHypoTokens(hypos[1][1], [w1, w2, w1, eos])\n self.assertHypoScore(hypos[1][1], [0.7, 0.4, 0.4, 1.0], normalized=False)\n\n def test_with_lenpen_favoring_short_hypos(self):\n lenpen = 0.6\n generator = SequenceGenerator(self.tgt_dict, beam_size=2, len_penalty=lenpen)\n hypos = generator.generate([self.model], self.sample)\n eos, w1, w2 = self.tgt_dict.eos(), self.w1, self.w2\n # sentence 1, beam 1\n self.assertHypoTokens(hypos[0][0], [w1, eos])\n self.assertHypoScore(hypos[0][0], [0.9, 1.0], lenpen=lenpen)\n # sentence 1, beam 2\n self.assertHypoTokens(hypos[0][1], [w2, w1, w2, eos])\n self.assertHypoScore(hypos[0][1], [0.1, 0.9, 0.9, 1.0], lenpen=lenpen)\n # sentence 2, beam 1\n self.assertHypoTokens(hypos[1][0], [w1, w2, eos])\n self.assertHypoScore(hypos[1][0], [0.7, 0.4, 0.6], lenpen=lenpen)\n # sentence 2, beam 2\n self.assertHypoTokens(hypos[1][1], [w1, w2, w1, eos])\n self.assertHypoScore(hypos[1][1], [0.7, 0.4, 0.4, 1.0], lenpen=lenpen)\n\n def test_with_lenpen_favoring_long_hypos(self):\n lenpen = 5.0\n generator = SequenceGenerator(self.tgt_dict, beam_size=2, len_penalty=lenpen)\n hypos = generator.generate([self.model], self.sample)\n eos, w1, w2 = self.tgt_dict.eos(), self.w1, self.w2\n # sentence 1, beam 1\n self.assertHypoTokens(hypos[0][0], [w2, w1, w2, eos])\n self.assertHypoScore(hypos[0][0], [0.1, 0.9, 0.9, 1.0], lenpen=lenpen)\n # sentence 1, beam 2\n self.assertHypoTokens(hypos[0][1], [w1, eos])\n self.assertHypoScore(hypos[0][1], [0.9, 1.0], lenpen=lenpen)\n # sentence 2, beam 1\n self.assertHypoTokens(hypos[1][0], [w1, w2, w1, eos])\n self.assertHypoScore(hypos[1][0], [0.7, 0.4, 0.4, 1.0], lenpen=lenpen)\n # sentence 2, beam 2\n self.assertHypoTokens(hypos[1][1], [w1, w2, eos])\n self.assertHypoScore(hypos[1][1], [0.7, 0.4, 0.6], lenpen=lenpen)\n\n def test_maxlen(self):\n generator = SequenceGenerator(self.tgt_dict, beam_size=2, max_len_b=2)\n hypos = generator.generate([self.model], self.sample)\n eos, w1, w2 = self.tgt_dict.eos(), self.w1, self.w2\n # sentence 1, beam 1\n self.assertHypoTokens(hypos[0][0], [w1, eos])\n self.assertHypoScore(hypos[0][0], [0.9, 1.0])\n # sentence 1, beam 2\n self.assertHypoTokens(hypos[0][1], [w2, w2, eos])\n self.assertHypoScore(hypos[0][1], [0.1, 0.1, 0.6])\n # sentence 2, beam 1\n self.assertHypoTokens(hypos[1][0], [w1, w2, eos])\n self.assertHypoScore(hypos[1][0], [0.7, 0.4, 0.6])\n # sentence 2, beam 2\n self.assertHypoTokens(hypos[1][1], [w2, w2, eos])\n self.assertHypoScore(hypos[1][1], [0.3, 0.9, 0.01])\n\n\nclass TestDiverseBeamSearch(TestSequenceGeneratorBase):\n def setUp(self):\n # construct dummy dictionary\n d = test_utils.dummy_dictionary(vocab_size=2)\n self.assertEqual(d.pad(), 1)\n self.assertEqual(d.eos(), 2)\n self.assertEqual(d.unk(), 3)\n self.eos = d.eos()\n self.w1 = 4\n self.w2 = 5\n\n # construct source data\n self.src_tokens = torch.LongTensor(\n [[self.w1, self.w2, self.eos], [self.w1, self.w2, self.eos],]\n )\n self.src_lengths = torch.LongTensor([2, 2])\n\n args = argparse.Namespace()\n unk = 0.0\n args.beam_probs = [\n # step 0:\n torch.FloatTensor(\n [\n # eos w1 w2\n # sentence 1:\n [0.0, unk, 0.9, 0.1], # beam 1\n [0.0, unk, 0.9, 0.1], # beam 2\n # sentence 2:\n [0.0, unk, 0.7, 0.3],\n [0.0, unk, 0.7, 0.3],\n ]\n ),\n # step 1:\n torch.FloatTensor(\n [\n # eos w1 w2\n # sentence 1:\n [0.0, unk, 0.6, 0.4],\n [0.0, unk, 0.6, 0.4],\n # sentence 2:\n [0.25, unk, 0.35, 0.4],\n [0.25, unk, 0.35, 0.4],\n ]\n ),\n # step 2:\n torch.FloatTensor(\n [\n # eos w1 w2\n # sentence 1:\n [1.0, unk, 0.0, 0.0],\n [1.0, unk, 0.0, 0.0],\n # sentence 2:\n [0.9, unk, 0.1, 0.0],\n [0.9, unk, 0.1, 0.0],\n ]\n ),\n ]\n\n task = test_utils.TestTranslationTask.setup_task(args, d, d)\n self.model = task.build_model(args)\n self.tgt_dict = task.target_dictionary\n\n def test_diverse_beam_search(self):\n generator = SequenceGenerator(\n self.tgt_dict,\n beam_size=2,\n diverse_beam_groups=2,\n diverse_beam_strength=0.0,\n )\n sample = {\n \"net_input\": {\n \"src_tokens\": self.src_tokens,\n \"src_lengths\": self.src_lengths,\n }\n }\n hypos = generator.generate([self.model], sample)\n eos, w1, w2 = self.eos, self.w1, self.w2\n # sentence 1, beam 1\n self.assertHypoTokens(hypos[0][0], [w1, w1, eos])\n self.assertHypoScore(hypos[0][0], [0.9, 0.6, 1.0])\n # sentence 1, beam 2\n self.assertHypoTokens(hypos[0][1], [w1, w1, eos])\n self.assertHypoScore(hypos[0][1], [0.9, 0.6, 1.0])\n # sentence 2, beam 1\n self.assertHypoTokens(hypos[1][0], [w1, w2, eos])\n self.assertHypoScore(hypos[1][0], [0.7, 0.4, 0.9])\n # sentence 2, beam 2\n self.assertHypoTokens(hypos[1][1], [w1, w2, eos])\n self.assertHypoScore(hypos[1][1], [0.7, 0.4, 0.9])\n\n\nclass TestTopPSamplingSearch(TestSequenceGeneratorBase):\n def setUp(self):\n # construct dummy dictionary\n d = test_utils.dummy_dictionary(vocab_size=2)\n self.assertEqual(d.pad(), 1)\n self.assertEqual(d.eos(), 2)\n self.assertEqual(d.unk(), 3)\n self.eos = d.eos()\n self.w1 = 4\n self.w2 = 5\n\n # construct source data\n self.src_tokens = torch.LongTensor(\n [[self.w1, self.w2, self.eos], [self.w1, self.w2, self.eos],]\n )\n self.src_lengths = torch.LongTensor([2, 2])\n\n args = argparse.Namespace()\n unk = 0.0\n # The minimal probability of top 2 tokens.\n self.min_top2_prob = 0.75\n # The minimal probability of the top 1 token.\n self.min_top1_prob = 0.4\n\n w1_prob = self.min_top1_prob\n w2_prob = self.min_top2_prob - self.min_top1_prob\n eos_prob = 1 - self.min_top2_prob\n\n args.beam_probs = [\n # step 0:\n torch.FloatTensor(\n [\n # eos w1 w2\n [0.0, unk, 1.0, 0.0],\n [0.0, unk, 1.0, 0.0],\n [0.0, unk, 1.0, 0.0],\n [0.0, unk, 1.0, 0.0],\n ]\n ),\n # step 1:\n torch.FloatTensor(\n [\n # eos w1 w2\n [eos_prob, unk, w1_prob, w2_prob],\n [eos_prob, unk, w1_prob, w2_prob],\n [eos_prob, unk, w1_prob, w2_prob],\n [eos_prob, unk, w1_prob, w2_prob],\n ]\n ),\n # step 2:\n torch.FloatTensor(\n [\n # eos w1 w2\n [1.0, unk, 0.0, 0.0],\n [1.0, unk, 0.0, 0.0],\n [1.0, unk, 0.0, 0.0],\n [1.0, unk, 0.0, 0.0],\n ]\n ),\n ]\n\n task = test_utils.TestTranslationTask.setup_task(args, d, d)\n self.model = task.build_model(args)\n self.tgt_dict = task.target_dictionary\n\n def test_topp_sampling_search_low_prob(self):\n # Given a prob low enough to top-P sampling, we expect only the top\n # 1 token to be sampled, which always results in the same output.\n low_sampling_topp = self.min_top1_prob / 2.0\n generator = SequenceGenerator(\n self.tgt_dict, beam_size=2, sampling=True, sampling_topp=low_sampling_topp\n )\n sample = {\n \"net_input\": {\n \"src_tokens\": self.src_tokens,\n \"src_lengths\": self.src_lengths,\n }\n }\n hypos = generator.generate([self.model], sample)\n eos, w1 = self.eos, self.w1\n # sentence 1, beam 1\n self.assertHypoTokens(hypos[0][0], [w1, w1, eos])\n self.assertHypoScore(hypos[0][0], [1.0, 0.4, 1.0])\n # sentence 1, beam 2\n self.assertHypoTokens(hypos[0][1], [w1, w1, eos])\n self.assertHypoScore(hypos[0][1], [1.0, 0.4, 1.0])\n # sentence 2, beam 1\n self.assertHypoTokens(hypos[1][0], [w1, w1, eos])\n self.assertHypoScore(hypos[1][0], [1.0, 0.4, 1.0])\n # sentence 2, beam 2\n self.assertHypoTokens(hypos[1][1], [w1, w1, eos])\n self.assertHypoScore(hypos[1][1], [1.0, 0.4, 1.0])\n\n def test_topp_sampling_search_high_prob(self):\n # Given a prob high enough to top-P sampling, any of the top 2\n # tokens could be sampled. This can cause different outputs.\n high_sampling_topp = (self.min_top1_prob + self.min_top2_prob) / 2.0\n generator = SequenceGenerator(\n self.tgt_dict, beam_size=2, sampling=True, sampling_topp=high_sampling_topp\n )\n sample = {\n \"net_input\": {\n \"src_tokens\": self.src_tokens,\n \"src_lengths\": self.src_lengths,\n }\n }\n hypos = generator.generate([self.model], sample)\n eos, w1, w2 = self.eos, self.w1, self.w2\n # sentence 1, beam 1\n self.assertTrue(\n self.hypoTokens(hypos[0][0], [w1, w1, eos])\n or self.hypoTokens(hypos[0][0], [w1, w2, eos])\n )\n self.assertTrue(\n self.hypoScore(hypos[0][0], [1.0, 0.4, 1.0])\n or self.hypoScore(hypos[0][0], [1.0, 0.35, 1.0])\n )\n\n # sentence 1, beam 2\n self.assertTrue(\n self.hypoTokens(hypos[0][1], [w1, w1, eos])\n or self.hypoTokens(hypos[0][1], [w1, w2, eos])\n )\n self.assertTrue(\n self.hypoScore(hypos[0][1], [1.0, 0.4, 1.0])\n or self.hypoScore(hypos[0][1], [1.0, 0.35, 1.0])\n )\n\n # sentence 2, beam 1\n self.assertTrue(\n self.hypoTokens(hypos[1][0], [w1, w1, eos])\n or self.hypoTokens(hypos[1][0], [w1, w2, eos])\n )\n self.assertTrue(\n self.hypoScore(hypos[1][0], [1.0, 0.4, 1.0])\n or self.hypoScore(hypos[1][0], [1.0, 0.35, 1.0])\n )\n\n # sentence 2, beam 2\n self.assertTrue(\n self.hypoTokens(hypos[1][1], [w1, w1, eos])\n or self.hypoTokens(hypos[1][1], [w1, w2, eos])\n )\n self.assertTrue(\n self.hypoScore(hypos[1][1], [1.0, 0.4, 1.0])\n or self.hypoScore(hypos[1][1], [1.0, 0.35, 1.0])\n )\n\n def hypoTokens(self, hypo, tokens):\n return self.tensorEqual(hypo[\"tokens\"], torch.LongTensor(tokens))\n\n def hypoScore(self, hypo, pos_probs, normalized=True, lenpen=1.0):\n pos_scores = torch.FloatTensor(pos_probs).log()\n if not self.almostEqual(hypo[\"positional_scores\"], pos_scores):\n return False\n if pos_scores.numel() != hypo[\"tokens\"].numel():\n return False\n score = pos_scores.sum()\n if normalized:\n score /= pos_scores.numel() ** lenpen\n return abs(score - hypo[\"score\"]) < 1e-6\n\n def almostEqual(self, t1, t2):\n return t1.size() == t2.size() and (t1 - t2).abs().max() < 1e-4\n\n def tensorEqual(self, t1, t2):\n return t1.size() == t2.size() and t1.ne(t2).long().sum() == 0\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n unittest.main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/tests/test_sequence_scorer.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport argparse\nimport unittest\n\nimport torch\n\nfrom fairseq.sequence_scorer import SequenceScorer\n\nimport tests.utils as test_utils\n\n\nclass TestSequenceScorer(unittest.TestCase):\n def test_sequence_scorer(self):\n # construct dummy dictionary\n d = test_utils.dummy_dictionary(vocab_size=2)\n self.assertEqual(d.pad(), 1)\n self.assertEqual(d.eos(), 2)\n self.assertEqual(d.unk(), 3)\n eos = d.eos()\n w1 = 4\n w2 = 5\n\n # construct dataloader\n data = [\n {\n \"source\": torch.LongTensor([w1, w2, eos]),\n \"target\": torch.LongTensor([w1, w2, w1, eos]),\n },\n {\n \"source\": torch.LongTensor([w2, eos]),\n \"target\": torch.LongTensor([w2, w1, eos]),\n },\n {\n \"source\": torch.LongTensor([w2, eos]),\n \"target\": torch.LongTensor([w2, eos]),\n },\n ]\n data_itr = test_utils.dummy_dataloader(data)\n\n # specify expected output probabilities\n args = argparse.Namespace()\n unk = 0.0\n args.beam_probs = [\n # step 0:\n torch.FloatTensor(\n [\n # eos w1 w2\n [0.0, unk, 0.6, 0.4], # sentence 1\n [0.0, unk, 0.4, 0.6], # sentence 2\n [0.0, unk, 0.7, 0.3], # sentence 3\n ]\n ),\n # step 1:\n torch.FloatTensor(\n [\n # eos w1 w2\n [0.0, unk, 0.2, 0.7], # sentence 1\n [0.0, unk, 0.8, 0.2], # sentence 2\n [0.7, unk, 0.1, 0.2], # sentence 3\n ]\n ),\n # step 2:\n torch.FloatTensor(\n [\n # eos w1 w2\n [0.10, unk, 0.50, 0.4], # sentence 1\n [0.15, unk, 0.15, 0.7], # sentence 2\n [0.00, unk, 0.00, 0.0], # sentence 3\n ]\n ),\n # step 3:\n torch.FloatTensor(\n [\n # eos w1 w2\n [0.9, unk, 0.05, 0.05], # sentence 1\n [0.0, unk, 0.00, 0.0], # sentence 2\n [0.0, unk, 0.00, 0.0], # sentence 3\n ]\n ),\n ]\n expected_scores = [\n [0.6, 0.7, 0.5, 0.9], # sentence 1\n [0.6, 0.8, 0.15], # sentence 2\n [0.3, 0.7], # sentence 3\n ]\n\n task = test_utils.TestTranslationTask.setup_task(args, d, d)\n model = task.build_model(args)\n scorer = SequenceScorer(task.target_dictionary)\n for sample in data_itr:\n hypos = task.inference_step(scorer, [model], sample)\n for id, hypos_id in zip(sample[\"id\"].tolist(), hypos):\n self.assertHypoTokens(hypos_id[0], data[id][\"target\"])\n self.assertHypoScore(hypos_id[0], expected_scores[id])\n\n def assertHypoTokens(self, hypo, tokens):\n self.assertTensorEqual(hypo[\"tokens\"], torch.LongTensor(tokens))\n\n def assertHypoScore(self, hypo, pos_probs, normalized=True, lenpen=1.0):\n pos_scores = torch.FloatTensor(pos_probs).log()\n self.assertAlmostEqual(hypo[\"positional_scores\"], pos_scores)\n self.assertEqual(pos_scores.numel(), hypo[\"tokens\"].numel())\n score = pos_scores.sum()\n if normalized:\n score /= pos_scores.numel() ** lenpen\n self.assertLess(abs(score - hypo[\"score\"]), 1e-6)\n\n def assertAlmostEqual(self, t1, t2):\n self.assertEqual(t1.size(), t2.size(), \"size mismatch\")\n self.assertLess((t1 - t2).abs().max(), 1e-4)\n\n def assertTensorEqual(self, t1, t2):\n self.assertEqual(t1.size(), t2.size(), \"size mismatch\")\n self.assertEqual(t1.ne(t2).long().sum(), 0)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n unittest.main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/tests/test_sparse_multihead_attention.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\nimport unittest\nfrom fairseq.modules.sparse_multihead_attention import SparseMultiheadAttention\n\n\nclass TestSparseMultiheadAttention(unittest.TestCase):\n def test_sparse_multihead_attention(self):\n attn_weights = torch.randn(1, 8, 8)\n bidirectional_sparse_mask = torch.tensor(\n [\n [0, 0, 0, 0, 0, float(\"-inf\"), float(\"-inf\"), 0],\n [0, 0, 0, 0, 0, float(\"-inf\"), float(\"-inf\"), 0],\n [0, 0, 0, 0, 0, float(\"-inf\"), float(\"-inf\"), 0],\n [0, 0, 0, 0, 0, float(\"-inf\"), float(\"-inf\"), 0],\n [float(\"-inf\"), float(\"-inf\"), float(\"-inf\"), 0, 0, 0, 0, 0],\n [float(\"-inf\"), float(\"-inf\"), float(\"-inf\"), 0, 0, 0, 0, 0],\n [float(\"-inf\"), float(\"-inf\"), float(\"-inf\"), 0, 0, 0, 0, 0],\n [float(\"-inf\"), float(\"-inf\"), float(\"-inf\"), 0, 0, 0, 0, 0],\n ]\n )\n\n bidirectional_attention = SparseMultiheadAttention(\n 16, 1, stride=4, expressivity=1, is_bidirectional=True\n )\n bidirectional_attention_sparse_mask = bidirectional_attention.buffered_sparse_mask(\n attn_weights, 8, 8\n )\n torch.all(\n torch.eq(bidirectional_attention_sparse_mask, bidirectional_sparse_mask)\n )\n\n sparse_mask = torch.tensor(\n [\n [\n 0,\n float(\"-inf\"),\n float(\"-inf\"),\n float(\"-inf\"),\n float(\"-inf\"),\n float(\"-inf\"),\n float(\"-inf\"),\n float(\"-inf\"),\n ],\n [\n 0,\n 0,\n float(\"-inf\"),\n float(\"-inf\"),\n float(\"-inf\"),\n float(\"-inf\"),\n float(\"-inf\"),\n float(\"-inf\"),\n ],\n [\n 0,\n 0,\n 0,\n float(\"-inf\"),\n float(\"-inf\"),\n float(\"-inf\"),\n float(\"-inf\"),\n float(\"-inf\"),\n ],\n [\n 0,\n 0,\n 0,\n 0,\n float(\"-inf\"),\n float(\"-inf\"),\n float(\"-inf\"),\n float(\"-inf\"),\n ],\n [0, 0, 0, 0, 0, float(\"-inf\"), float(\"-inf\"), float(\"-inf\")],\n [\n float(\"-inf\"),\n float(\"-inf\"),\n float(\"-inf\"),\n 0,\n 0,\n 0,\n float(\"-inf\"),\n float(\"-inf\"),\n ],\n [\n float(\"-inf\"),\n float(\"-inf\"),\n float(\"-inf\"),\n 0,\n 0,\n 0,\n 0,\n float(\"-inf\"),\n ],\n [float(\"-inf\"), float(\"-inf\"), float(\"-inf\"), 0, 0, 0, 0, 0],\n ]\n )\n\n attention = SparseMultiheadAttention(\n 16, 1, stride=4, expressivity=1, is_bidirectional=False\n )\n attention_sparse_mask = attention.buffered_sparse_mask(attn_weights, 8, 8)\n\n torch.all(torch.eq(attention_sparse_mask, sparse_mask))\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n unittest.main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/tests/test_token_block_dataset.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport unittest\n\nimport torch\n\nfrom fairseq.data import TokenBlockDataset\n\nimport tests.utils as test_utils\n\n\nclass TestTokenBlockDataset(unittest.TestCase):\n def _build_dataset(self, data, **kwargs):\n sizes = [len(x) for x in data]\n underlying_ds = test_utils.TestDataset(data)\n return TokenBlockDataset(underlying_ds, sizes, **kwargs)\n\n def test_eos_break_mode(self):\n data = [\n torch.tensor([5, 4, 3, 2, 1], dtype=torch.long),\n torch.tensor([1], dtype=torch.long),\n torch.tensor([8, 7, 6, 1], dtype=torch.long),\n ]\n ds = self._build_dataset(data, block_size=None, pad=0, eos=1, break_mode=\"eos\")\n self.assertEqual(ds[0].tolist(), [5, 4, 3, 2, 1])\n self.assertEqual(ds[1].tolist(), [1])\n self.assertEqual(ds[2].tolist(), [8, 7, 6, 1])\n\n data = [\n torch.tensor([5, 4, 3, 2, 1], dtype=torch.long),\n torch.tensor([8, 7, 6, 1], dtype=torch.long),\n torch.tensor([1], dtype=torch.long),\n ]\n ds = self._build_dataset(data, block_size=None, pad=0, eos=1, break_mode=\"eos\")\n self.assertEqual(ds[0].tolist(), [5, 4, 3, 2, 1])\n self.assertEqual(ds[1].tolist(), [8, 7, 6, 1])\n self.assertEqual(ds[2].tolist(), [1])\n\n def test_block_break_mode(self):\n data = [\n torch.tensor([5, 4, 3, 2, 1], dtype=torch.long),\n torch.tensor([8, 7, 6, 1], dtype=torch.long),\n torch.tensor([9, 1], dtype=torch.long),\n ]\n ds = self._build_dataset(data, block_size=3, pad=0, eos=1, break_mode=\"none\")\n self.assertEqual(ds[0].tolist(), [5, 4, 3])\n self.assertEqual(ds[1].tolist(), [2, 1, 8])\n self.assertEqual(ds[2].tolist(), [7, 6, 1])\n self.assertEqual(ds[3].tolist(), [9, 1])\n\n def test_complete_break_mode(self):\n data = [\n torch.tensor([5, 4, 3, 2, 1], dtype=torch.long),\n torch.tensor([8, 7, 6, 1], dtype=torch.long),\n torch.tensor([9, 1], dtype=torch.long),\n ]\n ds = self._build_dataset(\n data, block_size=6, pad=0, eos=1, break_mode=\"complete\"\n )\n self.assertEqual(ds[0].tolist(), [5, 4, 3, 2, 1])\n self.assertEqual(ds[1].tolist(), [8, 7, 6, 1, 9, 1])\n\n data = [\n torch.tensor([4, 3, 2, 1], dtype=torch.long),\n torch.tensor([5, 1], dtype=torch.long),\n torch.tensor([1], dtype=torch.long),\n torch.tensor([6, 1], dtype=torch.long),\n ]\n ds = self._build_dataset(\n data, block_size=3, pad=0, eos=1, break_mode=\"complete\"\n )\n self.assertEqual(ds[0].tolist(), [4, 3, 2, 1])\n self.assertEqual(ds[1].tolist(), [5, 1, 1])\n self.assertEqual(ds[2].tolist(), [6, 1])\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n unittest.main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/tests/test_train.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport contextlib\nfrom io import StringIO\nimport unittest\nfrom unittest.mock import MagicMock, patch\n\nimport torch\n\nfrom fairseq import data, checkpoint_utils\n\n\ndef mock_trainer(epoch, num_updates, iterations_in_epoch):\n trainer = MagicMock()\n trainer.load_checkpoint.return_value = {\n \"train_iterator\": {\n \"epoch\": epoch,\n \"iterations_in_epoch\": iterations_in_epoch,\n \"shuffle\": False,\n },\n }\n trainer.get_num_updates.return_value = num_updates\n return trainer\n\n\ndef mock_dict():\n d = MagicMock()\n d.pad.return_value = 1\n d.eos.return_value = 2\n d.unk.return_value = 3\n return d\n\n\ndef get_trainer_and_epoch_itr(epoch, epoch_size, num_updates, iterations_in_epoch):\n tokens = torch.LongTensor(list(range(epoch_size))).view(1, -1)\n tokens_ds = data.TokenBlockDataset(\n tokens,\n sizes=[tokens.size(-1)],\n block_size=1,\n pad=0,\n eos=1,\n include_targets=False,\n )\n trainer = mock_trainer(epoch, num_updates, iterations_in_epoch)\n dataset = data.LanguagePairDataset(\n tokens_ds, tokens_ds.sizes, mock_dict(), shuffle=False\n )\n epoch_itr = data.EpochBatchIterator(\n dataset=dataset,\n collate_fn=dataset.collater,\n batch_sampler=[[i] for i in range(epoch_size)],\n )\n return trainer, epoch_itr\n\n\nclass TestLoadCheckpoint(unittest.TestCase):\n def setUp(self):\n self.args_mock = MagicMock()\n self.args_mock.optimizer_overrides = \"{}\"\n self.args_mock.reset_dataloader = False\n self.args_mock.reset_meters = False\n self.args_mock.reset_optimizer = False\n self.patches = {\n \"os.makedirs\": MagicMock(),\n \"os.path.join\": MagicMock(),\n \"os.path.isfile\": MagicMock(return_value=True),\n \"os.path.isabs\": MagicMock(return_value=False),\n }\n self.applied_patches = [patch(p, d) for p, d in self.patches.items()]\n [p.start() for p in self.applied_patches]\n\n def test_load_partial_checkpoint(self):\n\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n trainer, epoch_itr = get_trainer_and_epoch_itr(2, 150, 200, 50)\n trainer.get_train_iterator = MagicMock(return_value=epoch_itr)\n\n _, epoch_itr = checkpoint_utils.load_checkpoint(self.args_mock, trainer)\n\n self.assertEqual(epoch_itr.epoch, 2)\n self.assertEqual(epoch_itr.iterations_in_epoch, 50)\n\n itr = epoch_itr.next_epoch_itr(shuffle=False)\n self.assertEqual(epoch_itr.epoch, 2)\n self.assertEqual(epoch_itr.iterations_in_epoch, 50)\n\n self.assertEqual(next(itr)[\"net_input\"][\"src_tokens\"][0].item(), 50)\n self.assertEqual(epoch_itr.iterations_in_epoch, 51)\n\n for _ in range(150 - 52):\n next(itr)\n self.assertEqual(epoch_itr.iterations_in_epoch, 149)\n self.assertTrue(itr.has_next())\n next(itr)\n self.assertFalse(itr.has_next())\n\n itr = epoch_itr.next_epoch_itr(shuffle=False)\n self.assertTrue(itr.has_next())\n self.assertEqual(epoch_itr.epoch, 3)\n self.assertEqual(epoch_itr.iterations_in_epoch, 0)\n\n def test_load_full_checkpoint(self):\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n trainer, epoch_itr = get_trainer_and_epoch_itr(2, 150, 300, 150)\n trainer.get_train_iterator = MagicMock(return_value=epoch_itr)\n\n _, epoch_itr = checkpoint_utils.load_checkpoint(self.args_mock, trainer)\n itr = epoch_itr.next_epoch_itr(shuffle=False)\n\n self.assertEqual(epoch_itr.epoch, 3)\n self.assertEqual(epoch_itr.iterations_in_epoch, 0)\n self.assertEqual(next(itr)[\"net_input\"][\"src_tokens\"][0].item(), 0)\n\n def test_load_no_checkpoint(self):\n with contextlib.redirect_stdout(StringIO()):\n trainer, epoch_itr = get_trainer_and_epoch_itr(0, 150, 0, 0)\n trainer.get_train_iterator = MagicMock(return_value=epoch_itr)\n self.patches[\"os.path.isfile\"].return_value = False\n\n _, epoch_itr = checkpoint_utils.load_checkpoint(self.args_mock, trainer)\n itr = epoch_itr.next_epoch_itr(shuffle=False)\n\n self.assertEqual(epoch_itr.epoch, 1)\n self.assertEqual(epoch_itr.iterations_in_epoch, 0)\n self.assertEqual(next(itr)[\"net_input\"][\"src_tokens\"][0].item(), 0)\n\n def tearDown(self):\n patch.stopall()\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n unittest.main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/tests/test_utils.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport unittest\n\nimport torch\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\n\n\nclass TestUtils(unittest.TestCase):\n def test_convert_padding_direction(self):\n pad = 1\n left_pad = torch.LongTensor(\n [[2, 3, 4, 5, 6], [1, 7, 8, 9, 10], [1, 1, 1, 11, 12],]\n )\n right_pad = torch.LongTensor(\n [[2, 3, 4, 5, 6], [7, 8, 9, 10, 1], [11, 12, 1, 1, 1],]\n )\n\n self.assertAlmostEqual(\n right_pad,\n utils.convert_padding_direction(left_pad, pad, left_to_right=True,),\n )\n self.assertAlmostEqual(\n left_pad,\n utils.convert_padding_direction(right_pad, pad, right_to_left=True,),\n )\n\n def test_make_positions(self):\n pad = 1\n left_pad_input = torch.LongTensor(\n [[9, 9, 9, 9, 9], [1, 9, 9, 9, 9], [1, 1, 1, 9, 9],]\n )\n left_pad_output = torch.LongTensor(\n [[2, 3, 4, 5, 6], [1, 2, 3, 4, 5], [1, 1, 1, 2, 3],]\n )\n right_pad_input = torch.LongTensor(\n [[9, 9, 9, 9, 9], [9, 9, 9, 9, 1], [9, 9, 1, 1, 1],]\n )\n right_pad_output = torch.LongTensor(\n [[2, 3, 4, 5, 6], [2, 3, 4, 5, 1], [2, 3, 1, 1, 1],]\n )\n\n self.assertAlmostEqual(\n left_pad_output, utils.make_positions(left_pad_input, pad),\n )\n self.assertAlmostEqual(\n right_pad_output, utils.make_positions(right_pad_input, pad),\n )\n\n def assertAlmostEqual(self, t1, t2):\n self.assertEqual(t1.size(), t2.size(), \"size mismatch\")\n self.assertLess(utils.item((t1 - t2).abs().max()), 1e-4)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n unittest.main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/tests/utils.py", "content": "# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport argparse\nimport torch\n\nfrom fairseq import utils\nfrom fairseq.data import Dictionary\nfrom fairseq.data.language_pair_dataset import collate\nfrom fairseq.models import (\n FairseqEncoder,\n FairseqEncoderDecoderModel,\n FairseqIncrementalDecoder,\n)\nfrom fairseq.tasks import FairseqTask\n\n\ndef dummy_dictionary(vocab_size, prefix=\"token_\"):\n d = Dictionary()\n for i in range(vocab_size):\n token = prefix + str(i)\n d.add_symbol(token)\n d.finalize(padding_factor=1) # don't add extra padding symbols\n return d\n\n\ndef dummy_dataloader(\n samples, padding_idx=1, eos_idx=2, batch_size=None,\n):\n if batch_size is None:\n batch_size = len(samples)\n\n # add any missing data to samples\n for i, sample in enumerate(samples):\n if \"id\" not in sample:\n sample[\"id\"] = i\n\n # create dataloader\n dataset = TestDataset(samples)\n dataloader = torch.utils.data.DataLoader(\n dataset,\n batch_size=batch_size,\n collate_fn=(lambda samples: collate(samples, padding_idx, eos_idx)),\n )\n return iter(dataloader)\n\n\ndef sequence_generator_setup():\n # construct dummy dictionary\n d = dummy_dictionary(vocab_size=2)\n\n eos = d.eos()\n w1 = 4\n w2 = 5\n\n # construct source data\n src_tokens = torch.LongTensor([[w1, w2, eos], [w1, w2, eos]])\n src_lengths = torch.LongTensor([2, 2])\n\n args = argparse.Namespace()\n unk = 0.0\n args.beam_probs = [\n # step 0:\n torch.FloatTensor(\n [\n # eos w1 w2\n # sentence 1:\n [0.0, unk, 0.9, 0.1], # beam 1\n [0.0, unk, 0.9, 0.1], # beam 2\n # sentence 2:\n [0.0, unk, 0.7, 0.3],\n [0.0, unk, 0.7, 0.3],\n ]\n ),\n # step 1:\n torch.FloatTensor(\n [\n # eos w1 w2 prefix\n # sentence 1:\n [1.0, unk, 0.0, 0.0], # w1: 0.9 (emit: w1 <eos>: 0.9*1.0)\n [0.0, unk, 0.9, 0.1], # w2: 0.1\n # sentence 2:\n [0.25, unk, 0.35, 0.4], # w1: 0.7 (don't emit: w1 <eos>: 0.7*0.25)\n [0.00, unk, 0.10, 0.9], # w2: 0.3\n ]\n ),\n # step 2:\n torch.FloatTensor(\n [\n # eos w1 w2 prefix\n # sentence 1:\n [0.0, unk, 0.1, 0.9], # w2 w1: 0.1*0.9\n [\n 0.6,\n unk,\n 0.2,\n 0.2,\n ], # w2 w2: 0.1*0.1 (emit: w2 w2 <eos>: 0.1*0.1*0.6)\n # sentence 2:\n [\n 0.60,\n unk,\n 0.4,\n 0.00,\n ], # w1 w2: 0.7*0.4 (emit: w1 w2 <eos>: 0.7*0.4*0.6)\n [0.01, unk, 0.0, 0.99], # w2 w2: 0.3*0.9\n ]\n ),\n # step 3:\n torch.FloatTensor(\n [\n # eos w1 w2 prefix\n # sentence 1:\n [\n 1.0,\n unk,\n 0.0,\n 0.0,\n ], # w2 w1 w2: 0.1*0.9*0.9 (emit: w2 w1 w2 <eos>: 0.1*0.9*0.9*1.0)\n [\n 1.0,\n unk,\n 0.0,\n 0.0,\n ], # w2 w1 w1: 0.1*0.9*0.1 (emit: w2 w1 w1 <eos>: 0.1*0.9*0.1*1.0)\n # sentence 2:\n [\n 0.1,\n unk,\n 0.5,\n 0.4,\n ], # w2 w2 w2: 0.3*0.9*0.99 (emit: w2 w2 w2 <eos>: 0.3*0.9*0.99*0.1)\n [\n 1.0,\n unk,\n 0.0,\n 0.0,\n ], # w1 w2 w1: 0.7*0.4*0.4 (emit: w1 w2 w1 <eos>: 0.7*0.4*0.4*1.0)\n ]\n ),\n ]\n\n task = TestTranslationTask.setup_task(args, d, d)\n model = task.build_model(args)\n tgt_dict = task.target_dictionary\n\n return tgt_dict, w1, w2, src_tokens, src_lengths, model\n\n\nclass TestDataset(torch.utils.data.Dataset):\n def __init__(self, data):\n super().__init__()\n self.data = data\n self.sizes = None\n\n def __getitem__(self, index):\n return self.data[index]\n\n def __len__(self):\n return len(self.data)\n\n\nclass TestTranslationTask(FairseqTask):\n def __init__(self, args, src_dict, tgt_dict, model):\n super().__init__(args)\n self.src_dict = src_dict\n self.tgt_dict = tgt_dict\n self.model = model\n\n @classmethod\n def setup_task(cls, args, src_dict=None, tgt_dict=None, model=None):\n return cls(args, src_dict, tgt_dict, model)\n\n def build_model(self, args):\n return TestModel.build_model(args, self)\n\n @property\n def source_dictionary(self):\n return self.src_dict\n\n @property\n def target_dictionary(self):\n return self.tgt_dict\n\n\nclass TestModel(FairseqEncoderDecoderModel):\n def __init__(self, encoder, decoder):\n super().__init__(encoder, decoder)\n\n @classmethod\n def build_model(cls, args, task):\n encoder = TestEncoder(args, task.source_dictionary)\n decoder = TestIncrementalDecoder(args, task.target_dictionary)\n return cls(encoder, decoder)\n\n\nclass TestEncoder(FairseqEncoder):\n def __init__(self, args, dictionary):\n super().__init__(dictionary)\n self.args = args\n\n def forward(self, src_tokens, src_lengths=None, **kwargs):\n return src_tokens\n\n def reorder_encoder_out(self, encoder_out, new_order):\n return encoder_out.index_select(0, new_order)\n\n\nclass TestIncrementalDecoder(FairseqIncrementalDecoder):\n def __init__(self, args, dictionary):\n super().__init__(dictionary)\n assert hasattr(args, \"beam_probs\") or hasattr(args, \"probs\")\n args.max_decoder_positions = getattr(args, \"max_decoder_positions\", 100)\n self.args = args\n\n def forward(self, prev_output_tokens, encoder_out=None, incremental_state=None):\n if incremental_state is not None:\n prev_output_tokens = prev_output_tokens[:, -1:]\n bbsz = prev_output_tokens.size(0)\n vocab = len(self.dictionary)\n src_len = encoder_out.size(1)\n tgt_len = prev_output_tokens.size(1)\n\n # determine number of steps\n if incremental_state is not None:\n # cache step number\n step = utils.get_incremental_state(self, incremental_state, \"step\")\n if step is None:\n step = 0\n utils.set_incremental_state(self, incremental_state, \"step\", step + 1)\n steps = [step]\n else:\n steps = list(range(tgt_len))\n\n # define output in terms of raw probs\n if hasattr(self.args, \"probs\"):\n assert (\n self.args.probs.dim() == 3\n ), \"expected probs to have size bsz*steps*vocab\"\n probs = self.args.probs.index_select(1, torch.LongTensor(steps))\n else:\n probs = torch.FloatTensor(bbsz, len(steps), vocab).zero_()\n for i, step in enumerate(steps):\n # args.beam_probs gives the probability for every vocab element,\n # starting with eos, then unknown, and then the rest of the vocab\n if step < len(self.args.beam_probs):\n probs[:, i, self.dictionary.eos() :] = self.args.beam_probs[step]\n else:\n probs[:, i, self.dictionary.eos()] = 1.0\n\n # random attention\n attn = torch.rand(bbsz, tgt_len, src_len)\n\n dev = prev_output_tokens.device\n return probs.to(dev), attn.to(dev)\n\n def get_normalized_probs(self, net_output, log_probs, _):\n # the decoder returns probabilities directly\n probs = net_output[0]\n if log_probs:\n return probs.log()\n else:\n return probs\n\n def max_positions(self):\n return self.args.max_decoder_positions\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/train.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3 -u\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\"\"\"\nTrain a new model on one or across multiple GPUs.\n\"\"\"\n\nimport collections\nimport math\nimport random\n\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\n\nfrom fairseq import (\n checkpoint_utils,\n distributed_utils,\n options,\n progress_bar,\n tasks,\n utils,\n)\nfrom fairseq.data import iterators\nfrom fairseq.trainer import Trainer\nfrom fairseq.meters import AverageMeter, StopwatchMeter\n\n\ndef main(args, init_distributed=False):\n utils.import_user_module(args)\n\n assert (\n args.max_tokens is not None or args.max_sentences is not None\n ), \"Must specify batch size either with --max-tokens or --max-sentences\"\n\n # Initialize CUDA and distributed training\n if torch.cuda.is_available() and not args.cpu:\n torch.cuda.set_device(args.device_id)\n np.random.seed(args.seed)\n torch.manual_seed(args.seed)\n if init_distributed:\n args.distributed_rank = distributed_utils.distributed_init(args)\n\n if distributed_utils.is_master(args):\n checkpoint_utils.verify_checkpoint_directory(args.save_dir)\n\n # Print args\n print(args)\n\n # Setup task, e.g., translation, language modeling, etc.\n task = tasks.setup_task(args)\n\n # Load valid dataset (we load training data below, based on the latest checkpoint)\n for valid_sub_split in args.valid_subset.split(\",\"):\n task.load_dataset(valid_sub_split, combine=False, epoch=0)\n\n # Build model and criterion\n model = task.build_model(args)\n criterion = task.build_criterion(args)\n print(model)\n print(\"| model {}, criterion {}\".format(args.arch, criterion.__class__.__name__))\n print(\n \"| num. model params: {} (num. trained: {})\".format(\n sum(p.numel() for p in model.parameters()),\n sum(p.numel() for p in model.parameters() if p.requires_grad),\n )\n )\n\n # Build trainer\n trainer = Trainer(args, task, model, criterion)\n print(\"| training on {} GPUs\".format(args.distributed_world_size))\n print(\n \"| max tokens per GPU = {} and max sentences per GPU = {}\".format(\n args.max_tokens, args.max_sentences,\n )\n )\n\n # Load the latest checkpoint if one is available and restore the\n # corresponding train iterator\n extra_state, epoch_itr = checkpoint_utils.load_checkpoint(args, trainer)\n\n # Train until the learning rate gets too small\n max_epoch = args.max_epoch or math.inf\n max_update = args.max_update or math.inf\n lr = trainer.get_lr()\n train_meter = StopwatchMeter()\n train_meter.start()\n valid_subsets = args.valid_subset.split(\",\")\n while (\n lr > args.min_lr\n and (\n epoch_itr.epoch < max_epoch\n or (epoch_itr.epoch == max_epoch and epoch_itr._next_epoch_itr is not None)\n )\n and trainer.get_num_updates() < max_update\n ):\n # train for one epoch\n train(args, trainer, task, epoch_itr)\n\n if (\n not args.disable_validation\n and epoch_itr.epoch % args.validate_interval == 0\n ):\n valid_losses = validate(args, trainer, task, epoch_itr, valid_subsets)\n else:\n valid_losses = [None]\n\n # only use first validation loss to update the learning rate\n lr = trainer.lr_step(epoch_itr.epoch, valid_losses[0])\n\n # save checkpoint\n if epoch_itr.epoch % args.save_interval == 0:\n checkpoint_utils.save_checkpoint(args, trainer, epoch_itr, valid_losses[0])\n\n reload_dataset = \":\" in getattr(args, \"data\", \"\")\n # sharded data: get train iterator for next epoch\n epoch_itr = trainer.get_train_iterator(\n epoch_itr.epoch, load_dataset=reload_dataset\n )\n train_meter.stop()\n print(\"| done training in {:.1f} seconds\".format(train_meter.sum))\n\n\ndef train(args, trainer, task, epoch_itr):\n \"\"\"Train the model for one epoch.\"\"\"\n # Update parameters every N batches\n update_freq = (\n args.update_freq[epoch_itr.epoch - 1]\n if epoch_itr.epoch <= len(args.update_freq)\n else args.update_freq[-1]\n )\n\n # Initialize data iterator\n itr = epoch_itr.next_epoch_itr(\n fix_batches_to_gpus=args.fix_batches_to_gpus,\n shuffle=(epoch_itr.epoch >= args.curriculum),\n )\n itr = iterators.GroupedIterator(itr, update_freq)\n progress = progress_bar.build_progress_bar(\n args, itr, epoch_itr.epoch, no_progress_bar=\"simple\",\n )\n\n extra_meters = collections.defaultdict(lambda: AverageMeter())\n valid_subsets = args.valid_subset.split(\",\")\n max_update = args.max_update or math.inf\n for i, samples in enumerate(progress, start=epoch_itr.iterations_in_epoch):\n log_output = trainer.train_step(samples)\n if log_output is None:\n continue\n\n # log mid-epoch stats\n stats = get_training_stats(trainer)\n for k, v in log_output.items():\n if k in [\"loss\", \"nll_loss\", \"ntokens\", \"nsentences\", \"sample_size\"]:\n continue # these are already logged above\n if \"loss\" in k or k == \"accuracy\":\n extra_meters[k].update(v, log_output[\"sample_size\"])\n else:\n extra_meters[k].update(v)\n stats[k] = extra_meters[k].avg\n progress.log(stats, tag=\"train\", step=stats[\"num_updates\"])\n\n # ignore the first mini-batch in words-per-second and updates-per-second calculation\n if i == 0:\n trainer.get_meter(\"wps\").reset()\n trainer.get_meter(\"ups\").reset()\n\n num_updates = trainer.get_num_updates()\n if (\n not args.disable_validation\n and args.save_interval_updates > 0\n and num_updates % args.save_interval_updates == 0\n and num_updates > 0\n ):\n valid_losses = validate(args, trainer, task, epoch_itr, valid_subsets)\n checkpoint_utils.save_checkpoint(args, trainer, epoch_itr, valid_losses[0])\n\n if num_updates >= max_update:\n break\n\n # log end-of-epoch stats\n stats = get_training_stats(trainer)\n for k, meter in extra_meters.items():\n stats[k] = meter.avg\n progress.print(stats, tag=\"train\", step=stats[\"num_updates\"])\n\n # reset training meters\n for k in [\n \"train_loss\",\n \"train_nll_loss\",\n \"wps\",\n \"ups\",\n \"wpb\",\n \"bsz\",\n \"gnorm\",\n \"clip\",\n ]:\n meter = trainer.get_meter(k)\n if meter is not None:\n meter.reset()\n\n\ndef get_training_stats(trainer):\n stats = collections.OrderedDict()\n stats[\"loss\"] = trainer.get_meter(\"train_loss\")\n if trainer.get_meter(\"train_nll_loss\").count > 0:\n nll_loss = trainer.get_meter(\"train_nll_loss\")\n stats[\"nll_loss\"] = nll_loss\n else:\n nll_loss = trainer.get_meter(\"train_loss\")\n stats[\"ppl\"] = utils.get_perplexity(nll_loss.avg)\n stats[\"wps\"] = trainer.get_meter(\"wps\")\n stats[\"ups\"] = trainer.get_meter(\"ups\")\n stats[\"wpb\"] = trainer.get_meter(\"wpb\")\n stats[\"bsz\"] = trainer.get_meter(\"bsz\")\n stats[\"num_updates\"] = trainer.get_num_updates()\n stats[\"lr\"] = trainer.get_lr()\n stats[\"gnorm\"] = trainer.get_meter(\"gnorm\")\n stats[\"clip\"] = trainer.get_meter(\"clip\")\n stats[\"oom\"] = trainer.get_meter(\"oom\")\n if trainer.get_meter(\"loss_scale\") is not None:\n stats[\"loss_scale\"] = trainer.get_meter(\"loss_scale\")\n stats[\"wall\"] = round(trainer.get_meter(\"wall\").elapsed_time)\n stats[\"train_wall\"] = trainer.get_meter(\"train_wall\")\n return stats\n\n\ndef validate(args, trainer, task, epoch_itr, subsets):\n \"\"\"Evaluate the model on the validation set(s) and return the losses.\"\"\"\n\n if args.fixed_validation_seed is not None:\n # set fixed seed for every validation\n utils.set_torch_seed(args.fixed_validation_seed)\n\n valid_losses = []\n for subset in subsets:\n # Initialize data iterator\n itr = task.get_batch_iterator(\n dataset=task.dataset(subset),\n max_tokens=args.max_tokens_valid,\n max_sentences=args.max_sentences_valid,\n max_positions=utils.resolve_max_positions(\n task.max_positions(), trainer.get_model().max_positions(),\n ),\n ignore_invalid_inputs=args.skip_invalid_size_inputs_valid_test,\n required_batch_size_multiple=args.required_batch_size_multiple,\n seed=args.seed,\n num_shards=args.distributed_world_size,\n shard_id=args.distributed_rank,\n num_workers=args.num_workers,\n ).next_epoch_itr(shuffle=False)\n progress = progress_bar.build_progress_bar(\n args,\n itr,\n epoch_itr.epoch,\n prefix=\"valid on '{}' subset\".format(subset),\n no_progress_bar=\"simple\",\n )\n\n # reset validation loss meters\n for k in [\"valid_loss\", \"valid_nll_loss\"]:\n meter = trainer.get_meter(k)\n if meter is not None:\n meter.reset()\n extra_meters = collections.defaultdict(lambda: AverageMeter())\n\n for sample in progress:\n log_output = trainer.valid_step(sample)\n\n for k, v in log_output.items():\n if k in [\"loss\", \"nll_loss\", \"ntokens\", \"nsentences\", \"sample_size\"]:\n continue\n extra_meters[k].update(v)\n\n # log validation stats\n stats = get_valid_stats(trainer, args, extra_meters)\n for k, meter in extra_meters.items():\n stats[k] = meter.avg\n progress.print(stats, tag=subset, step=trainer.get_num_updates())\n\n valid_losses.append(\n stats[args.best_checkpoint_metric].avg\n if args.best_checkpoint_metric == \"loss\"\n else stats[args.best_checkpoint_metric]\n )\n return valid_losses\n\n\ndef get_valid_stats(trainer, args, extra_meters=None):\n stats = collections.OrderedDict()\n stats[\"loss\"] = trainer.get_meter(\"valid_loss\")\n if trainer.get_meter(\"valid_nll_loss\").count > 0:\n nll_loss = trainer.get_meter(\"valid_nll_loss\")\n stats[\"nll_loss\"] = nll_loss\n else:\n nll_loss = stats[\"loss\"]\n stats[\"ppl\"] = utils.get_perplexity(nll_loss.avg)\n stats[\"num_updates\"] = trainer.get_num_updates()\n if hasattr(checkpoint_utils.save_checkpoint, \"best\"):\n key = \"best_{0}\".format(args.best_checkpoint_metric)\n best_function = max if args.maximize_best_checkpoint_metric else min\n\n current_metric = None\n if args.best_checkpoint_metric == \"loss\":\n current_metric = stats[\"loss\"].avg\n elif args.best_checkpoint_metric in extra_meters:\n current_metric = extra_meters[args.best_checkpoint_metric].avg\n elif args.best_checkpoint_metric in stats:\n current_metric = stats[args.best_checkpoint_metric]\n else:\n raise ValueError(\"best_checkpoint_metric not found in logs\")\n\n stats[key] = best_function(\n checkpoint_utils.save_checkpoint.best, current_metric,\n )\n return stats\n\n\ndef distributed_main(i, args, start_rank=0):\n args.device_id = i\n if args.distributed_rank is None: # torch.multiprocessing.spawn\n args.distributed_rank = start_rank + i\n main(args, init_distributed=True)\n\n\ndef cli_main():\n parser = options.get_training_parser()\n args = options.parse_args_and_arch(parser)\n\n if args.distributed_init_method is None:\n distributed_utils.infer_init_method(args)\n\n if args.distributed_init_method is not None:\n # distributed training\n if torch.cuda.device_count() > 1 and not args.distributed_no_spawn:\n start_rank = args.distributed_rank\n args.distributed_rank = None # assign automatically\n torch.multiprocessing.spawn(\n fn=distributed_main,\n args=(args, start_rank),\n nprocs=torch.cuda.device_count(),\n )\n else:\n distributed_main(args.device_id, args)\n elif args.distributed_world_size > 1:\n # fallback for single node with multiple GPUs\n assert args.distributed_world_size <= torch.cuda.device_count()\n port = random.randint(10000, 20000)\n args.distributed_init_method = \"tcp://localhost:{port}\".format(port=port)\n args.distributed_rank = None # set based on device id\n if max(args.update_freq) > 1 and args.ddp_backend != \"no_c10d\":\n print(\"| NOTE: you may get better performance with: --ddp-backend=no_c10d\")\n torch.multiprocessing.spawn(\n fn=distributed_main, args=(args,), nprocs=args.distributed_world_size,\n )\n else:\n # single GPU training\n main(args)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n cli_main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/fairseq-hacked/validate.py", "content": "#!/usr/bin/env python3 -u\n#!/usr/bin/env python3 -u\n# Copyright (c) Facebook, Inc. and its affiliates.\n#\n# This source code is licensed under the MIT license found in the\n# LICENSE file in the root directory of this source tree.\n\nimport torch\n\nfrom fairseq import checkpoint_utils, options, progress_bar, utils\n\n\ndef main(args, override_args=None):\n utils.import_user_module(args)\n\n use_fp16 = args.fp16\n use_cuda = torch.cuda.is_available() and not args.cpu\n\n if override_args is not None:\n overrides = vars(override_args)\n overrides.update(eval(getattr(override_args, \"model_overrides\", \"{}\")))\n else:\n overrides = None\n\n # Load ensemble\n print(\"| loading model(s) from {}\".format(args.path))\n models, model_args, task = checkpoint_utils.load_model_ensemble_and_task(\n [args.path], arg_overrides=overrides,\n )\n model = models[0]\n\n # Move models to GPU\n for model in models:\n if use_fp16:\n model.half()\n if use_cuda:\n model.cuda()\n\n # Print args\n print(model_args)\n\n # Build criterion\n criterion = task.build_criterion(model_args)\n criterion.eval()\n\n # Load valid dataset (we load training data below, based on the latest checkpoint)\n for subset in args.valid_subset.split(\",\"):\n try:\n task.load_dataset(subset, combine=False, epoch=0)\n dataset = task.dataset(subset)\n except KeyError:\n raise Exception(\"Cannot find dataset: \" + subset)\n\n # Initialize data iterator\n itr = task.get_batch_iterator(\n dataset=dataset,\n max_tokens=args.max_tokens,\n max_sentences=args.max_sentences,\n max_positions=utils.resolve_max_positions(\n task.max_positions(), *[m.max_positions() for m in models],\n ),\n ignore_invalid_inputs=args.skip_invalid_size_inputs_valid_test,\n required_batch_size_multiple=args.required_batch_size_multiple,\n seed=args.seed,\n num_workers=args.num_workers,\n ).next_epoch_itr(shuffle=False)\n progress = progress_bar.build_progress_bar(\n args,\n itr,\n prefix=\"valid on '{}' subset\".format(subset),\n no_progress_bar=\"simple\",\n )\n\n log_outputs = []\n for i, sample in enumerate(progress):\n sample = utils.move_to_cuda(sample) if use_cuda else sample\n _loss, _sample_size, log_output = task.valid_step(sample, model, criterion)\n progress.log(log_output, step=i)\n log_outputs.append(log_output)\n\n log_output = task.aggregate_logging_outputs(log_outputs, criterion)\n\n progress.print(log_output, tag=subset, step=i)\n\n\ndef cli_main():\n parser = options.get_validation_parser()\n args = options.parse_args_and_arch(parser)\n\n # only override args that are explicitly given on the command line\n override_parser = options.get_validation_parser()\n override_args = options.parse_args_and_arch(override_parser, suppress_defaults=True)\n\n main(args, override_args)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n cli_main()\n" }, { "path": "packages/gpt2bpe/encoder.json", "content": "{\"!\": 0, \"\\\"\": 1, \"#\": 2, \"$\": 3, \"%\": 4, \"&\": 5, \"'\": 6, \"(\": 7, \")\": 8, \"*\": 9, \"+\": 10, \",\": 11, \"-\": 12, \".\": 13, \"/\": 14, \"0\": 15, \"1\": 16, \"2\": 17, \"3\": 18, \"4\": 19, \"5\": 20, \"6\": 21, \"7\": 22, \"8\": 23, \"9\": 24, \":\": 25, \";\": 26, \"<\": 27, \"=\": 28, \">\": 29, \"?\": 30, \"@\": 31, \"A\": 32, \"B\": 33, \"C\": 34, \"D\": 35, \"E\": 36, \"F\": 37, \"G\": 38, \"H\": 39, \"I\": 40, \"J\": 41, \"K\": 42, \"L\": 43, \"M\": 44, \"N\": 45, \"O\": 46, \"P\": 47, \"Q\": 48, \"R\": 49, \"S\": 50, \"T\": 51, \"U\": 52, \"V\": 53, \"W\": 54, \"X\": 55, \"Y\": 56, \"Z\": 57, \"[\": 58, \"\\\\\": 59, \"]\": 60, \"^\": 61, \"_\": 62, \"`\": 63, \"a\": 64, \"b\": 65, \"c\": 66, \"d\": 67, \"e\": 68, \"f\": 69, \"g\": 70, \"h\": 71, \"i\": 72, \"j\": 73, \"k\": 74, \"l\": 75, \"m\": 76, \"n\": 77, \"o\": 78, \"p\": 79, \"q\": 80, \"r\": 81, \"s\": 82, \"t\": 83, \"u\": 84, \"v\": 85, \"w\": 86, \"x\": 87, \"y\": 88, \"z\": 89, \"{\": 90, \"|\": 91, \"}\": 92, \"~\": 93, \"\\u00a1\": 94, \"\\u00a2\": 95, \"\\u00a3\": 96, \"\\u00a4\": 97, \"\\u00a5\": 98, \"\\u00a6\": 99, \"\\u00a7\": 100, \"\\u00a8\": 101, \"\\u00a9\": 102, \"\\u00aa\": 103, \"\\u00ab\": 104, \"\\u00ac\": 105, \"\\u00ae\": 106, \"\\u00af\": 107, \"\\u00b0\": 108, \"\\u00b1\": 109, \"\\u00b2\": 110, \"\\u00b3\": 111, \"\\u00b4\": 112, \"\\u00b5\": 113, \"\\u00b6\": 114, \"\\u00b7\": 115, \"\\u00b8\": 116, \"\\u00b9\": 117, \"\\u00ba\": 118, \"\\u00bb\": 119, \"\\u00bc\": 120, \"\\u00bd\": 121, \"\\u00be\": 122, \"\\u00bf\": 123, \"\\u00c0\": 124, \"\\u00c1\": 125, \"\\u00c2\": 126, \"\\u00c3\": 127, \"\\u00c4\": 128, \"\\u00c5\": 129, \"\\u00c6\": 130, \"\\u00c7\": 131, \"\\u00c8\": 132, \"\\u00c9\": 133, \"\\u00ca\": 134, \"\\u00cb\": 135, \"\\u00cc\": 136, \"\\u00cd\": 137, \"\\u00ce\": 138, \"\\u00cf\": 139, \"\\u00d0\": 140, \"\\u00d1\": 141, \"\\u00d2\": 142, \"\\u00d3\": 143, \"\\u00d4\": 144, \"\\u00d5\": 145, \"\\u00d6\": 146, \"\\u00d7\": 147, \"\\u00d8\": 148, \"\\u00d9\": 149, \"\\u00da\": 150, \"\\u00db\": 151, \"\\u00dc\": 152, \"\\u00dd\": 153, \"\\u00de\": 154, \"\\u00df\": 155, \"\\u00e0\": 156, \"\\u00e1\": 157, \"\\u00e2\": 158, \"\\u00e3\": 159, \"\\u00e4\": 160, \"\\u00e5\": 161, \"\\u00e6\": 162, \"\\u00e7\": 163, \"\\u00e8\": 164, \"\\u00e9\": 165, \"\\u00ea\": 166, \"\\u00eb\": 167, \"\\u00ec\": 168, \"\\u00ed\": 169, \"\\u00ee\": 170, \"\\u00ef\": 171, \"\\u00f0\": 172, \"\\u00f1\": 173, \"\\u00f2\": 174, \"\\u00f3\": 175, \"\\u00f4\": 176, \"\\u00f5\": 177, \"\\u00f6\": 178, \"\\u00f7\": 179, \"\\u00f8\": 180, \"\\u00f9\": 181, \"\\u00fa\": 182, \"\\u00fb\": 183, \"\\u00fc\": 184, \"\\u00fd\": 185, \"\\u00fe\": 186, \"\\u00ff\": 187, \"\\u0100\": 188, \"\\u0101\": 189, \"\\u0102\": 190, \"\\u0103\": 191, \"\\u0104\": 192, \"\\u0105\": 193, \"\\u0106\": 194, \"\\u0107\": 195, \"\\u0108\": 196, \"\\u0109\": 197, \"\\u010a\": 198, \"\\u010b\": 199, \"\\u010c\": 200, \"\\u010d\": 201, \"\\u010e\": 202, \"\\u010f\": 203, \"\\u0110\": 204, \"\\u0111\": 205, \"\\u0112\": 206, \"\\u0113\": 207, \"\\u0114\": 208, \"\\u0115\": 209, \"\\u0116\": 210, \"\\u0117\": 211, \"\\u0118\": 212, \"\\u0119\": 213, \"\\u011a\": 214, \"\\u011b\": 215, \"\\u011c\": 216, \"\\u011d\": 217, \"\\u011e\": 218, \"\\u011f\": 219, \"\\u0120\": 220, \"\\u0121\": 221, \"\\u0122\": 222, \"\\u0123\": 223, \"\\u0124\": 224, \"\\u0125\": 225, \"\\u0126\": 226, \"\\u0127\": 227, \"\\u0128\": 228, \"\\u0129\": 229, \"\\u012a\": 230, \"\\u012b\": 231, \"\\u012c\": 232, \"\\u012d\": 233, \"\\u012e\": 234, \"\\u012f\": 235, \"\\u0130\": 236, \"\\u0131\": 237, \"\\u0132\": 238, \"\\u0133\": 239, \"\\u0134\": 240, \"\\u0135\": 241, \"\\u0136\": 242, \"\\u0137\": 243, \"\\u0138\": 244, \"\\u0139\": 245, \"\\u013a\": 246, \"\\u013b\": 247, \"\\u013c\": 248, \"\\u013d\": 249, \"\\u013e\": 250, \"\\u013f\": 251, \"\\u0140\": 252, \"\\u0141\": 253, \"\\u0142\": 254, \"\\u0143\": 255, \"\\u0120t\": 256, \"\\u0120a\": 257, \"he\": 258, \"in\": 259, \"re\": 260, \"on\": 261, \"\\u0120the\": 262, \"er\": 263, \"\\u0120s\": 264, \"at\": 265, \"\\u0120w\": 266, \"\\u0120o\": 267, \"en\": 268, \"\\u0120c\": 269, \"it\": 270, \"is\": 271, \"an\": 272, \"or\": 273, \"es\": 274, \"\\u0120b\": 275, \"ed\": 276, \"\\u0120f\": 277, \"ing\": 278, \"\\u0120p\": 279, \"ou\": 280, \"\\u0120an\": 281, \"al\": 282, \"ar\": 283, \"\\u0120to\": 284, \"\\u0120m\": 285, \"\\u0120of\": 286, \"\\u0120in\": 287, \"\\u0120d\": 288, \"\\u0120h\": 289, \"\\u0120and\": 290, \"ic\": 291, \"as\": 292, \"le\": 293, \"\\u0120th\": 294, \"ion\": 295, \"om\": 296, \"ll\": 297, \"ent\": 298, \"\\u0120n\": 299, \"\\u0120l\": 300, \"st\": 301, \"\\u0120re\": 302, \"ve\": 303, \"\\u0120e\": 304, \"ro\": 305, \"ly\": 306, \"\\u0120be\": 307, \"\\u0120g\": 308, \"\\u0120T\": 309, \"ct\": 310, \"\\u0120S\": 311, \"id\": 312, \"ot\": 313, \"\\u0120I\": 314, \"ut\": 315, \"et\": 316, \"\\u0120A\": 317, \"\\u0120is\": 318, \"\\u0120on\": 319, \"im\": 320, \"am\": 321, \"ow\": 322, \"ay\": 323, \"ad\": 324, \"se\": 325, \"\\u0120that\": 326, \"\\u0120C\": 327, \"ig\": 328, \"\\u0120for\": 329, \"ac\": 330, \"\\u0120y\": 331, \"ver\": 332, \"ur\": 333, \"\\u0120u\": 334, \"ld\": 335, \"\\u0120st\": 336, \"\\u0120M\": 337, \"'s\": 338, \"\\u0120he\": 339, \"\\u0120it\": 340, \"ation\": 341, \"ith\": 342, \"ir\": 343, \"ce\": 344, \"\\u0120you\": 345, \"il\": 346, \"\\u0120B\": 347, \"\\u0120wh\": 348, \"ol\": 349, \"\\u0120P\": 350, \"\\u0120with\": 351, \"\\u01201\": 352, \"ter\": 353, \"ch\": 354, \"\\u0120as\": 355, \"\\u0120we\": 356, \"\\u0120(\": 357, \"nd\": 358, \"ill\": 359, \"\\u0120D\": 360, \"if\": 361, \"\\u01202\": 362, \"ag\": 363, \"ers\": 364, \"ke\": 365, \"\\u0120\\\"\": 366, \"\\u0120H\": 367, \"em\": 368, \"\\u0120con\": 369, \"\\u0120W\": 370, \"\\u0120R\": 371, \"her\": 372, \"\\u0120was\": 373, \"\\u0120r\": 374, \"od\": 375, \"\\u0120F\": 376, \"ul\": 377, \"ate\": 378, \"\\u0120at\": 379, \"ri\": 380, \"pp\": 381, \"ore\": 382, \"\\u0120The\": 383, \"\\u0120se\": 384, \"us\": 385, \"\\u0120pro\": 386, \"\\u0120ha\": 387, \"um\": 388, \"\\u0120are\": 389, \"\\u0120de\": 390, \"ain\": 391, \"and\": 392, \"\\u0120or\": 393, \"igh\": 394, \"est\": 395, \"ist\": 396, \"ab\": 397, \"rom\": 398, \"\\u0120N\": 399, \"th\": 400, \"\\u0120com\": 401, \"\\u0120G\": 402, \"un\": 403, \"op\": 404, \"00\": 405, \"\\u0120L\": 406, \"\\u0120not\": 407, \"ess\": 408, \"\\u0120ex\": 409, \"\\u0120v\": 410, \"res\": 411, \"\\u0120E\": 412, \"ew\": 413, \"ity\": 414, \"ant\": 415, \"\\u0120by\": 416, \"el\": 417, \"os\": 418, \"ort\": 419, \"oc\": 420, \"qu\": 421, \"\\u0120from\": 422, \"\\u0120have\": 423, \"\\u0120su\": 424, \"ive\": 425, \"ould\": 426, \"\\u0120sh\": 427, \"\\u0120this\": 428, \"nt\": 429, \"ra\": 430, \"pe\": 431, \"ight\": 432, \"art\": 433, \"ment\": 434, \"\\u0120al\": 435, \"ust\": 436, \"end\": 437, \"--\": 438, \"all\": 439, \"\\u0120O\": 440, \"ack\": 441, \"\\u0120ch\": 442, \"\\u0120le\": 443, \"ies\": 444, \"red\": 445, \"ard\": 446, \"\\u00e2\\u0122\": 447, \"out\": 448, \"\\u0120J\": 449, \"\\u0120ab\": 450, \"ear\": 451, \"iv\": 452, \"ally\": 453, \"our\": 454, \"ost\": 455, \"gh\": 456, \"pt\": 457, \"\\u0120pl\": 458, \"ast\": 459, \"\\u0120can\": 460, \"ak\": 461, \"ome\": 462, \"ud\": 463, \"The\": 464, \"\\u0120his\": 465, \"\\u0120do\": 466, \"\\u0120go\": 467, \"\\u0120has\": 468, \"ge\": 469, \"'t\": 470, \"\\u0120U\": 471, \"rou\": 472, \"\\u0120sa\": 473, \"\\u0120j\": 474, \"\\u0120but\": 475, \"\\u0120wor\": 476, \"\\u0120all\": 477, \"ect\": 478, \"\\u0120k\": 479, \"ame\": 480, \"\\u0120will\": 481, \"ok\": 482, \"\\u0120whe\": 483, \"\\u0120they\": 484, \"ide\": 485, \"01\": 486, \"ff\": 487, \"ich\": 488, \"pl\": 489, \"ther\": 490, \"\\u0120tr\": 491, \"..\": 492, \"\\u0120int\": 493, \"ie\": 494, \"ure\": 495, \"age\": 496, \"\\u0120ne\": 497, \"ial\": 498, \"ap\": 499, \"ine\": 500, \"ice\": 501, \"\\u0120me\": 502, \"\\u0120out\": 503, \"ans\": 504, \"one\": 505, \"ong\": 506, \"ions\": 507, \"\\u0120who\": 508, \"\\u0120K\": 509, \"\\u0120up\": 510, \"\\u0120their\": 511, \"\\u0120ad\": 512, \"\\u01203\": 513, \"\\u0120us\": 514, \"ated\": 515, \"ous\": 516, \"\\u0120more\": 517, \"ue\": 518, \"og\": 519, \"\\u0120St\": 520, \"ind\": 521, \"ike\": 522, \"\\u0120so\": 523, \"ime\": 524, \"per\": 525, \".\\\"\": 526, \"ber\": 527, \"iz\": 528, \"act\": 529, \"\\u0120one\": 530, \"\\u0120said\": 531, \"\\u0120-\": 532, \"are\": 533, \"\\u0120your\": 534, \"cc\": 535, \"\\u0120Th\": 536, \"\\u0120cl\": 537, \"ep\": 538, \"ake\": 539, \"able\": 540, \"ip\": 541, \"\\u0120cont\": 542, \"\\u0120which\": 543, \"ia\": 544, \"\\u0120im\": 545, \"\\u0120about\": 546, \"\\u0120were\": 547, \"very\": 548, \"ub\": 549, \"\\u0120had\": 550, \"\\u0120en\": 551, \"\\u0120comp\": 552, \",\\\"\": 553, \"\\u0120In\": 554, \"\\u0120un\": 555, \"\\u0120ag\": 556, \"ire\": 557, \"ace\": 558, \"au\": 559, \"ary\": 560, \"\\u0120would\": 561, \"ass\": 562, \"ry\": 563, \"\\u0120\\u00e2\\u0122\": 564, \"cl\": 565, \"ook\": 566, \"ere\": 567, \"so\": 568, \"\\u0120V\": 569, \"ign\": 570, \"ib\": 571, \"\\u0120off\": 572, \"\\u0120te\": 573, \"ven\": 574, \"\\u0120Y\": 575, \"ile\": 576, \"ose\": 577, \"ite\": 578, \"orm\": 579, \"\\u0120201\": 580, \"\\u0120res\": 581, \"\\u0120man\": 582, \"\\u0120per\": 583, \"\\u0120other\": 584, \"ord\": 585, \"ult\": 586, \"\\u0120been\": 587, \"\\u0120like\": 588, \"ase\": 589, \"ance\": 590, \"ks\": 591, \"ays\": 592, \"own\": 593, \"ence\": 594, \"\\u0120dis\": 595, \"ction\": 596, \"\\u0120any\": 597, \"\\u0120app\": 598, \"\\u0120sp\": 599, \"int\": 600, \"ress\": 601, \"ations\": 602, \"ail\": 603, \"\\u01204\": 604, \"ical\": 605, \"\\u0120them\": 606, \"\\u0120her\": 607, \"ount\": 608, \"\\u0120Ch\": 609, \"\\u0120ar\": 610, \"\\u0120if\": 611, \"\\u0120there\": 612, \"\\u0120pe\": 613, \"\\u0120year\": 614, \"av\": 615, \"\\u0120my\": 616, \"\\u0120some\": 617, \"\\u0120when\": 618, \"ough\": 619, \"ach\": 620, \"\\u0120than\": 621, \"ru\": 622, \"ond\": 623, \"ick\": 624, \"\\u0120over\": 625, \"vel\": 626, \"\\u0120qu\": 627, \"\\u010a\\u010a\": 628, \"\\u0120sc\": 629, \"reat\": 630, \"ree\": 631, \"\\u0120It\": 632, \"ound\": 633, \"port\": 634, \"\\u0120also\": 635, \"\\u0120part\": 636, \"fter\": 637, \"\\u0120kn\": 638, \"\\u0120bec\": 639, \"\\u0120time\": 640, \"ens\": 641, \"\\u01205\": 642, \"ople\": 643, \"\\u0120what\": 644, \"\\u0120no\": 645, \"du\": 646, \"mer\": 647, \"ang\": 648, \"\\u0120new\": 649, \"----\": 650, \"\\u0120get\": 651, \"ory\": 652, \"ition\": 653, \"ings\": 654, \"\\u0120just\": 655, \"\\u0120into\": 656, \"\\u01200\": 657, \"ents\": 658, \"ove\": 659, \"te\": 660, \"\\u0120people\": 661, \"\\u0120pre\": 662, \"\\u0120its\": 663, \"\\u0120rec\": 664, \"\\u0120tw\": 665, \"ian\": 666, \"irst\": 667, \"ark\": 668, \"ors\": 669, \"\\u0120work\": 670, \"ade\": 671, \"ob\": 672, \"\\u0120she\": 673, \"\\u0120our\": 674, \"wn\": 675, \"ink\": 676, \"lic\": 677, \"\\u012019\": 678, \"\\u0120He\": 679, \"ish\": 680, \"nder\": 681, \"ause\": 682, \"\\u0120him\": 683, \"ons\": 684, \"\\u0120[\": 685, \"\\u0120ro\": 686, \"form\": 687, \"ild\": 688, \"ates\": 689, \"vers\": 690, \"\\u0120only\": 691, \"oll\": 692, \"\\u0120spe\": 693, \"ck\": 694, \"ell\": 695, \"amp\": 696, \"\\u0120acc\": 697, \"\\u0120bl\": 698, \"ious\": 699, \"urn\": 700, \"ft\": 701, \"ood\": 702, \"\\u0120how\": 703, \"hed\": 704, \"\\u0120'\": 705, \"\\u0120after\": 706, \"aw\": 707, \"\\u0120att\": 708, \"ov\": 709, \"ne\": 710, \"\\u0120play\": 711, \"erv\": 712, \"ict\": 713, \"\\u0120could\": 714, \"itt\": 715, \"\\u0120am\": 716, \"\\u0120first\": 717, \"\\u01206\": 718, \"\\u0120act\": 719, \"\\u0120$\": 720, \"ec\": 721, \"hing\": 722, \"ual\": 723, \"ull\": 724, \"\\u0120comm\": 725, \"oy\": 726, \"old\": 727, \"ces\": 728, \"ater\": 729, \"\\u0120fe\": 730, \"\\u0120bet\": 731, \"we\": 732, \"iff\": 733, \"\\u0120two\": 734, \"ock\": 735, \"\\u0120back\": 736, \").\": 737, \"ident\": 738, \"\\u0120under\": 739, \"rough\": 740, \"sel\": 741, \"xt\": 742, \"\\u0120may\": 743, \"round\": 744, \"\\u0120po\": 745, \"ph\": 746, \"iss\": 747, \"\\u0120des\": 748, \"\\u0120most\": 749, \"\\u0120did\": 750, \"\\u0120add\": 751, \"ject\": 752, \"\\u0120inc\": 753, \"fore\": 754, \"\\u0120pol\": 755, \"ont\": 756, \"\\u0120again\": 757, \"clud\": 758, \"tern\": 759, \"\\u0120know\": 760, \"\\u0120need\": 761, \"\\u0120cons\": 762, \"\\u0120co\": 763, \"\\u0120.\": 764, \"\\u0120want\": 765, \"\\u0120see\": 766, \"\\u01207\": 767, \"ning\": 768, \"iew\": 769, \"\\u0120This\": 770, \"ced\": 771, \"\\u0120even\": 772, \"\\u0120ind\": 773, \"ty\": 774, \"\\u0120We\": 775, \"ath\": 776, \"\\u0120these\": 777, \"\\u0120pr\": 778, \"\\u0120use\": 779, \"\\u0120because\": 780, \"\\u0120fl\": 781, \"ng\": 782, \"\\u0120now\": 783, \"\\u0120\\u00e2\\u0122\\u0135\": 784, \"com\": 785, \"ise\": 786, \"\\u0120make\": 787, \"\\u0120then\": 788, \"ower\": 789, \"\\u0120every\": 790, \"\\u0120Un\": 791, \"\\u0120sec\": 792, \"oss\": 793, \"uch\": 794, \"\\u0120em\": 795, \"\\u0120=\": 796, \"\\u0120Re\": 797, \"ied\": 798, \"rit\": 799, \"\\u0120inv\": 800, \"lect\": 801, \"\\u0120supp\": 802, \"ating\": 803, \"\\u0120look\": 804, \"man\": 805, \"pect\": 806, \"\\u01208\": 807, \"row\": 808, \"\\u0120bu\": 809, \"\\u0120where\": 810, \"ific\": 811, \"\\u0120years\": 812, \"ily\": 813, \"\\u0120diff\": 814, \"\\u0120should\": 815, \"\\u0120rem\": 816, \"Th\": 817, \"In\": 818, \"\\u0120ev\": 819, \"day\": 820, \"'re\": 821, \"rib\": 822, \"\\u0120rel\": 823, \"ss\": 824, \"\\u0120def\": 825, \"\\u0120right\": 826, \"\\u0120sy\": 827, \"),\": 828, \"les\": 829, \"000\": 830, \"hen\": 831, \"\\u0120through\": 832, \"\\u0120Tr\": 833, \"__\": 834, \"\\u0120way\": 835, \"\\u0120don\": 836, \"\\u0120,\": 837, \"\\u012010\": 838, \"ased\": 839, \"\\u0120ass\": 840, \"ublic\": 841, \"\\u0120reg\": 842, \"\\u0120And\": 843, \"ix\": 844, \"\\u0120very\": 845, \"\\u0120includ\": 846, \"other\": 847, \"\\u0120imp\": 848, \"oth\": 849, \"\\u0120sub\": 850, \"\\u0120\\u00e2\\u0122\\u0136\": 851, \"\\u0120being\": 852, \"arg\": 853, \"\\u0120Wh\": 854, \"==\": 855, \"ible\": 856, \"\\u0120does\": 857, \"ange\": 858, \"ram\": 859, \"\\u01209\": 860, \"ert\": 861, \"ps\": 862, \"ited\": 863, \"ational\": 864, \"\\u0120br\": 865, \"\\u0120down\": 866, \"\\u0120many\": 867, \"aking\": 868, \"\\u0120call\": 869, \"uring\": 870, \"ities\": 871, 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\"\\u0120forecast\": 11092, \"\\u0120fert\": 11093, \"orship\": 11094, \"\\u0120Drug\": 11095, \"\\u0120ALL\": 11096, \":\\\"\": 11097, \"thur\": 11098, \"\\u0120Mail\": 11099, \"\\u0120ballot\": 11100, \"\\u0120instantly\": 11101, \"\\u0120Channel\": 11102, \"\\u0120picks\": 11103, \"\\u01201989\": 11104, \"\\u0120tent\": 11105, \"oli\": 11106, \"\\u0120civilian\": 11107, \"bling\": 11108, \"ello\": 11109, \"bu\": 11110, \"\\u0120inch\": 11111, \"\\u0120logo\": 11112, \"\\u0120cooperation\": 11113, \"\\u0120walks\": 11114, \"\\u0120investments\": 11115, \"\\u0120imprison\": 11116, \"\\u0120Festival\": 11117, \"\\u0120Ky\": 11118, \"\\u0120legally\": 11119, \"\\u0120gri\": 11120, \"charg\": 11121, \"Sl\": 11122, \"\\u0120threatening\": 11123, \"duction\": 11124, \"flow\": 11125, \"\\u0120dismissed\": 11126, \"ibraries\": 11127, \"cap\": 11128, \"ele\": 11129, \"\\u0120McG\": 11130, \"\\u0120Harvard\": 11131, \"\\u0120Conservative\": 11132, \"\\u0120CBS\": 11133, \"png\": 11134, \"\\u0120roots\": 11135, \"\\u0120Having\": 11136, \"umbled\": 11137, \"\\u0120Fun\": 11138, \"\\\\/\": 11139, \"\\u0120Search\": 11140, \"plex\": 11141, \"\\u0120discussing\": 11142, \"\\u0120continu\": 11143, \"\\u0120Tai\": 11144, \"\\u0120Wik\": 11145, \"Free\": 11146, \"fit\": 11147, \"\\u0120refuse\": 11148, \"\\u0120managing\": 11149, \"\\u0120synd\": 11150, \"ipedia\": 11151, \"walk\": 11152, \"\\u0120professionals\": 11153, \"\\u0120guidance\": 11154, \"\\u0120universities\": 11155, \"\\u0120assemb\": 11156, \"untu\": 11157, \"Finally\": 11158, \"ASE\": 11159, \"\\u0120Auto\": 11160, \"\\u0120Had\": 11161, \"\\u0120anniversary\": 11162, \"LD\": 11163, \"\\u0120Dur\": 11164, \"\\u0120Ultimate\": 11165, \"ihad\": 11166, \"product\": 11167, \"\\u0120transit\": 11168, \"\\u0120restore\": 11169, \"\\u0120explaining\": 11170, \"\\u0120asset\": 11171, \"\\u0120transferred\": 11172, \"\\u0120burst\": 11173, \"apolis\": 11174, \"\\u0120Magazine\": 11175, \"\\u0120Cra\": 11176, \"\\u0120BR\": 11177, \"gged\": 11178, \"\\u0120HE\": 11179, \"Mich\": 11180, \"bet\": 11181, \"\\u0120Lady\": 11182, \"ylum\": 11183, \"erves\": 11184, \"\\u0120meets\": 11185, \"white\": 11186, \"Log\": 11187, \"\\u0120corresponding\": 11188, \"\\u0120insisted\": 11189, \"GG\": 11190, \"\\u0120surrounded\": 11191, \"\\u0120tens\": 11192, \"\\u0120lane\": 11193, \"\\u0120coinc\": 11194, \"home\": 11195, \"\\u0120existed\": 11196, \"ected\": 11197, \"\\u0120Double\": 11198, \"lamm\": 11199, \"\\u0120skept\": 11200, \"exp\": 11201, \"\\u0120perception\": 11202, \"iev\": 11203, \"\\u0120Being\": 11204, \"oft\": 11205, \"\\u0120adopt\": 11206, \".:\": 11207, \"];\": 11208, \"Windows\": 11209, \"\\u0120satellite\": 11210, \"ASH\": 11211, \"\\u0120infant\": 11212, \"description\": 11213, \"\\u0120Meanwhile\": 11214, \"cm\": 11215, \"oca\": 11216, \"\\u0120Treat\": 11217, \"actor\": 11218, \"\\u0120tobacco\": 11219, \"\\u0120Norm\": 11220, \"emption\": 11221, \"\\u0120flesh\": 11222, \"\\u0120je\": 11223, \"oop\": 11224, \"\\u0120Heaven\": 11225, \"\\u0120beating\": 11226, \"anim\": 11227, \"\\u0120gathering\": 11228, \"\\u0120cultiv\": 11229, \"GO\": 11230, \"abe\": 11231, \"\\u0120Jonathan\": 11232, \"\\u0120Safety\": 11233, \"\\u0120badly\": 11234, \"prot\": 11235, \"\\u0120choosing\": 11236, \"\\u0120contacted\": 11237, \"\\u0120quit\": 11238, \"\\u0120distur\": 11239, \"\\u0120stir\": 11240, \"\\u0120token\": 11241, \"Det\": 11242, \"\\u0120Pa\": 11243, \"\\u0120functionality\": 11244, \"003\": 11245, \"some\": 11246, \"\\u0120limitations\": 11247, \"\\u0120meth\": 11248, \"build\": 11249, \"config\": 11250, \"NT\": 11251, \"rell\": 11252, \"blem\": 11253, \"\\u0120Mom\": 11254, \"\\u0120veterans\": 11255, \"\\u0120Hu\": 11256, \"\\u0120trends\": 11257, \"arer\": 11258, \"\\u0120Given\": 11259, \"\\u0120Caption\": 11260, \"may\": 11261, \"AST\": 11262, \"\\u0120wondering\": 11263, \"\\u0120Clark\": 11264, \"normal\": 11265, \"\\u0120separated\": 11266, \"\\u0120desp\": 11267, \"stic\": 11268, \"brew\": 11269, \"\\u0120relating\": 11270, \"\\u0120Nik\": 11271, \"\\u0120Farm\": 11272, \"\\u0120enthusi\": 11273, \"good\": 11274, \"deb\": 11275, \"\\u0120activist\": 11276, \"\\u0120mart\": 11277, \"\\u0120explosion\": 11278, \"\\u0120Economic\": 11279, \"Link\": 11280, \"\\u0120insight\": 11281, \"\\u0120convenient\": 11282, \"\\u0120counterpart\": 11283, \"support\": 11284, \"\\u0120Virt\": 11285, \"agen\": 11286, \"\\u0120Tennessee\": 11287, \"\\u0120Simon\": 11288, \"\\u0120Award\": 11289, \"OCK\": 11290, \"\\u0120Figure\": 11291, \"\\u0120overseas\": 11292, \"\\u0120pride\": 11293, \"\\u0120Cas\": 11294, \"note\": 11295, \"mg\": 11296, \"Current\": 11297, \"\\u0120displays\": 11298, \"content\": 11299, \"\\u0120traveling\": 11300, \"\\u0120hospitals\": 11301, \"\\u0120Financial\": 11302, \"\\u0120Past\": 11303, \"\\u0120defendant\": 11304, \"\\u0120streaming\": 11305, \"mble\": 11306, \"\\u0120Berlin\": 11307, \"uki\": 11308, \"\\u0120distribut\": 11309, \"\\u0120antib\": 11310, \"\\u0120chocolate\": 11311, \"\\u0120Castle\": 11312, \"\\u0120interrupt\": 11313, \"\\u0120Row\": 11314, \"\\u0120conversion\": 11315, \"\\u0120bugs\": 11316, \"\\u0120Rather\": 11317, \"liest\": 11318, \"LY\": 11319, \"\\u0120Jean\": 11320, \"common\": 11321, \"akh\": 11322, \"\\u0120130\": 11323, \"otton\": 11324, \"\\u0120Dean\": 11325, \"\\u0120amendment\": 11326, \"\\u0120gameplay\": 11327, \"\\u0120Warren\": 11328, \"oda\": 11329, \"\\u0120highlights\": 11330, \"\\u0120irre\": 11331, \"\\u0120NATO\": 11332, \"\\u0120balls\": 11333, \"\\u0120demanding\": 11334, \"URE\": 11335, \"\\u0120Luke\": 11336, \"Figure\": 11337, \"stop\": 11338, \"onia\": 11339, \"zone\": 11340, \"izers\": 11341, \"\\u0120WR\": 11342, \"\\u0120awarded\": 11343, \"\\u0120regulatory\": 11344, \"\\u0120Hart\": 11345, \"\\u0120SN\": 11346, \"pling\": 11347, \"\\u0120sour\": 11348, \"\\u0120Pixel\": 11349, \"usive\": 11350, \"\\u0120fet\": 11351, \"\\u0120Sent\": 11352, \"\\u0120automatic\": 11353, \"\\u0120fer\": 11354, \"vernment\": 11355, \"\\u0120Khan\": 11356, \"TON\": 11357, \"father\": 11358, \"\\u0120extraordinary\": 11359, \"throp\": 11360, \"\\u0120Python\": 11361, \"\\u0120GPU\": 11362, \"\\u0120sexually\": 11363, \"\\u0120desktop\": 11364, \"itivity\": 11365, \"\\u0120Antonio\": 11366, \"\\u0120orient\": 11367, \"\\u0120ears\": 11368, \"obby\": 11369, \"ouses\": 11370, \"vertisements\": 11371, \"\\u0120manufacturers\": 11372, \"icient\": 11373, \"minute\": 11374, \"\\u0120conviction\": 11375, \"\\u0120garden\": 11376, \"public\": 11377, \"\\u0120satisfied\": 11378, \"fold\": 11379, \"OK\": 11380, \"\\u0120inhab\": 11381, \"\\u0120Think\": 11382, \"\\u0120programme\": 11383, \"\\u0120stomach\": 11384, \"\\u0120coordin\": 11385, \"\\u0120holy\": 11386, \"\\u0120threshold\": 11387, \"\\u0120rhet\": 11388, \"\\u0120serial\": 11389, \"\\u0120employers\": 11390, \"\\u0120Everything\": 11391, \"rah\": 11392, \"\\u0120bother\": 11393, \"\\u0120brands\": 11394, \"Value\": 11395, \"\\u0120Ted\": 11396, \"\\u0120Planet\": 11397, \"\\u0120pink\": 11398, \"\\u0120Furthermore\": 11399, \"sa\": 11400, \"PE\": 11401, \"reck\": 11402, \"\\u0120USD\": 11403, \"otte\": 11404, \"\\u0120&&\": 11405, \"\\u0120landed\": 11406, \"gets\": 11407, \"\\u0120producers\": 11408, \"\\u0120healthcare\": 11409, \"\\u0120dominant\": 11410, \"\\u0120destro\": 11411, \"\\u0120amended\": 11412, \"chron\": 11413, \"\\u0120fits\": 11414, \"\\u0120Syd\": 11415, \"\\u0120Authority\": 11416, \"ATCH\": 11417, \"\\u0120fights\": 11418, \"\\u0120LLC\": 11419, \"\\u0120---\": 11420, \"\\u0120Corp\": 11421, \"\\u0120toxic\": 11422, \"specific\": 11423, \"\\u0120Corn\": 11424, \"\\u0120Chel\": 11425, \"\\u0120telephone\": 11426, \"\\u0120Pant\": 11427, \"\\u0120mysterious\": 11428, \"aunch\": 11429, \"odox\": 11430, \"media\": 11431, \"\\u0120witnesses\": 11432, \"agu\": 11433, \"\\u0120questioned\": 11434, \"\\u0120Brexit\": 11435, \"\\u0120Remember\": 11436, \"enez\": 11437, \"\\u0120endorse\": 11438, \"iatric\": 11439, \"\\u0120Ident\": 11440, \"\\u0120ridiculous\": 11441, \"110\": 11442, \"\\u0120prayer\": 11443, \"\\u0120scientist\": 11444, \"\\u01201950\": 11445, \"\\u0120Aqu\": 11446, \"\\u0120underground\": 11447, \"\\u0120UFC\": 11448, \"mare\": 11449, \"\\u0120Later\": 11450, \"wich\": 11451, \"\\u0120subscrib\": 11452, \"\\u0120hosts\": 11453, \"\\u0120err\": 11454, \"\\u0120grants\": 11455, \"antom\": 11456, \"\\u0120summon\": 11457, \"early\": 11458, \"\\u0120Clear\": 11459, \"\\u0120Prim\": 11460, \"\\u0120suspension\": 11461, \"\\u0120guaranteed\": 11462, \"apper\": 11463, \"\\u0120rice\": 11464, \"\\u0120Sean\": 11465, \"\\u0120Shin\": 11466, \"\\u0120referendum\": 11467, \"\\u0120fled\": 11468, \"rust\": 11469, \"\\u0120360\": 11470, \"tery\": 11471, \"\\u0120shocked\": 11472, \"BR\": 11473, \"\\u0120Oil\": 11474, \"\\u0120Allah\": 11475, \"\\u0120partly\": 11476, \"\\u0120ignor\": 11477, \"\\u0120transmission\": 11478, \"\\u0120homosexual\": 11479, \"iversal\": 11480, \"\\u0120hopefully\": 11481, \"\\u00e3\\u0124\\u00a4\": 11482, \"\\u0120lesson\": 11483, \"Leg\": 11484, \"\\u0120..\": 11485, \"Yet\": 11486, \"table\": 11487, \"appropri\": 11488, \"rett\": 11489, \"\\u0120boards\": 11490, \"\\u0120incorrect\": 11491, \"\\u0120bacteria\": 11492, \"aru\": 11493, \"amac\": 11494, \"\\u0120snap\": 11495, \".'\\\"\": 11496, \"\\u0120parad\": 11497, \"tem\": 11498, \"heart\": 11499, \"\\u0120availability\": 11500, \"\\u0120wisdom\": 11501, \"\\u0120(+\": 11502, \"\\u0120priest\": 11503, \"\\u0120\\u00c2\\u0142\\u0120\\u00c2\\u0142\": 11504, \"Open\": 11505, \"\\u0120span\": 11506, \"\\u0120parameter\": 11507, \"\\u0120convince\": 11508, \"\\u0120(%)\": 11509, \"rac\": 11510, \"\\u0120fo\": 11511, \"\\u0120safely\": 11512, \"\\u0120converted\": 11513, \"\\u0120Olympic\": 11514, \"\\u0120reserve\": 11515, \"\\u0120healing\": 11516, \"\\u0120Mine\": 11517, \"Max\": 11518, \"\\u0120inherent\": 11519, \"\\u0120Graham\": 11520, \"\\u0120integrated\": 11521, \"Dem\": 11522, \"\\u0120pipeline\": 11523, \"\\u0120applying\": 11524, \"\\u0120embed\": 11525, \"\\u0120Charlie\": 11526, \"\\u0120cave\": 11527, \"2008\": 11528, \"\\u0120consensus\": 11529, \"\\u0120rewards\": 11530, \"Pal\": 11531, \"\\u0120HTML\": 11532, \"\\u0120popularity\": 11533, \"looking\": 11534, \"\\u0120Sword\": 11535, \"\\u0120Arts\": 11536, \"')\": 11537, \"\\u0120electron\": 11538, \"clusions\": 11539, \"\\u0120integrity\": 11540, \"\\u0120exclusively\": 11541, \"\\u0120grace\": 11542, \"\\u0120torture\": 11543, \"\\u0120burned\": 11544, \"two\": 11545, \"\\u0120180\": 11546, \"Produ\": 11547, \"\\u0120entreprene\": 11548, \"raphics\": 11549, \"\\u0120gym\": 11550, \"ricane\": 11551, \"\\u0120Tam\": 11552, \"\\u0120administrative\": 11553, \"\\u0120manufacturer\": 11554, \"\\u0120vel\": 11555, \"\\u0120Ni\": 11556, \"\\u0120isolated\": 11557, \"\\u0120Medicine\": 11558, \"\\u0120backup\": 11559, \"\\u0120promoting\": 11560, \"\\u0120commander\": 11561, \"\\u0120flee\": 11562, \"\\u0120Russell\": 11563, \"\\u0120forgotten\": 11564, \"\\u0120Missouri\": 11565, \"\\u0120residence\": 11566, \"mons\": 11567, \"\\u0120resemb\": 11568, \"\\u0120wand\": 11569, \"\\u0120meaningful\": 11570, \"PT\": 11571, \"\\u0120bol\": 11572, \"\\u0120helic\": 11573, \"\\u0120wealthy\": 11574, \"\\u0120rifle\": 11575, \"strong\": 11576, \"rowing\": 11577, \"plan\": 11578, \"asury\": 11579, \"\\u00e2\\u0122\\u00a6.\": 11580, \"\\u0120expanding\": 11581, \"\\u0120Hamilton\": 11582, \"\\u0120receives\": 11583, \"SI\": 11584, \"eatures\": 11585, \"\\u0120Anim\": 11586, \"REE\": 11587, \"Put\": 11588, \"\\u0120briefly\": 11589, \"rive\": 11590, \"\\u0120stimul\": 11591, \"\\u0120``(\": 11592, \"\\u0120__\": 11593, \"\\u0120chip\": 11594, \"\\u0120haz\": 11595, \"\\u0120prize\": 11596, \"\\u0120Things\": 11597, \"ACE\": 11598, \"ulin\": 11599, \"dict\": 11600, \"oku\": 11601, \"\\u0120associate\": 11602, \"ockets\": 11603, \"youtube\": 11604, \"Story\": 11605, \"ategory\": 11606, \"\\u0120mild\": 11607, \"ailing\": 11608, \"\\u0120Ye\": 11609, \"Orig\": 11610, \"\\u0120Ka\": 11611, \"orig\": 11612, \"\\u0120propaganda\": 11613, \"\\u0120anonymous\": 11614, \"\\u0120struggled\": 11615, \"\\u0120outrage\": 11616, \"ATED\": 11617, \"\\u0120Beijing\": 11618, \"rary\": 11619, \"\\u0120leather\": 11620, \"\\u0120worlds\": 11621, \"\\u0120broader\": 11622, \"125\": 11623, \"idal\": 11624, \"\\u0120Better\": 11625, \"\\u0120tear\": 11626, \"Ext\": 11627, \"\\u0120proposals\": 11628, \"\\u0120iter\": 11629, \"\\u0120Squad\": 11630, \"\\u0120volunt\": 11631, \"mi\": 11632, \"Did\": 11633, \"\\u0120Pu\": 11634, \"pin\": 11635, \"\\u0120speakers\": 11636, \"\\u0120borders\": 11637, \"\\u0120figured\": 11638, \"='\": 11639, \"\\u0120simultaneously\": 11640, \"aeda\": 11641, \"\\u0120charging\": 11642, \"\\u0120urged\": 11643, \"\\u0120conj\": 11644, \"256\": 11645, \"\\u0120Gordon\": 11646, \"merce\": 11647, \"\\u0120documentary\": 11648, \"Share\": 11649, \"itol\": 11650, \"ONE\": 11651, \"\\u0120Garden\": 11652, \"hatt\": 11653, \"\\u0120Thompson\": 11654, \"aneous\": 11655, \"apore\": 11656, \"\\u0120tanks\": 11657, \"\\u0120lessons\": 11658, \"track\": 11659, \"\\u0120outstanding\": 11660, \"\\u0120volunteers\": 11661, \"\\u0120spray\": 11662, \"\\u0120managers\": 11663, \"large\": 11664, \"\\u0120camps\": 11665, \"\\u0120artificial\": 11666, \"\\u0120Ru\": 11667, \"\\u0120bags\": 11668, \"thal\": 11669, \"\\u0120compatible\": 11670, \"\\u0120Blade\": 11671, \"\\u0120fed\": 11672, \"\\u0120argues\": 11673, \"FI\": 11674, \"\\u0120unfair\": 11675, \"\\u0120corn\": 11676, \"\\u0120offset\": 11677, \"\\u0120directions\": 11678, \"\\u0120disappointed\": 11679, \"\\u0120Convention\": 11680, \"\\u0120viewing\": 11681, \"ME\": 11682, \"ocity\": 11683, \"\\u0120towns\": 11684, \"\\u0120layers\": 11685, \"\\u0120rolled\": 11686, \"\\u0120jumped\": 11687, \"\\u0120attribute\": 11688, \"\\u0120unnecess\": 11689, \"incoln\": 11690, \"\\u0120suppose\": 11691, \"\\u0120Nether\": 11692, \"cha\": 11693, \"\\u0120buried\": 11694, \"\\u0120sixth\": 11695, \"Ben\": 11696, \"ressing\": 11697, \"OUR\": 11698, \"\\u0120wound\": 11699, \"\\u0120cycl\": 11700, \"\\u0120mechanisms\": 11701, \"\\u0120congressional\": 11702, \"\\u0120Element\": 11703, \"\\u0120agreements\": 11704, \"\\u0120decor\": 11705, \"\\u0120closest\": 11706, \"\\u0120Mit\": 11707, \"Google\": 11708, \"}}\": 11709, \"\\u0120mixture\": 11710, \"\\u0120fluid\": 11711, \"Sign\": 11712, \"\\u0120Scholar\": 11713, \"\\u0120pist\": 11714, \"asket\": 11715, \"abling\": 11716, \"\\u0120racing\": 11717, \"hero\": 11718, \"riel\": 11719, \"assy\": 11720, \"\\u0120cheaper\": 11721, \"ben\": 11722, \"\\u0120vertical\": 11723, \"amacare\": 11724, \"\\u0120Reading\": 11725, \"gments\": 11726, \"\\u0120helicop\": 11727, \"\\u0120sacrifice\": 11728, \"aya\": 11729, \"paren\": 11730, \"VA\": 11731, \"\\u0120Les\": 11732, \"\\u0120Studio\": 11733, \"\\u0120violations\": 11734, \"\\u0120Anna\": 11735, \"acer\": 11736, \"\\u00e9\\u00be\": 11737, \"\\u0120Rat\": 11738, \"\\u0120Beck\": 11739, \"\\u0120Dick\": 11740, \"\\u0120ACT\": 11741, \"\\u0120composition\": 11742, \"\\u0120texture\": 11743, \"\\u0120Own\": 11744, \"\\u0120smartphone\": 11745, \"\\u0120NA\": 11746, \"\\u0120forb\": 11747, \"import\": 11748, \"\\u0120defending\": 11749, \"ilst\": 11750, \"rer\": 11751, \"\\u0120oh\": 11752, \"\\u0120Jeremy\": 11753, \"\\u0120banking\": 11754, \"ceptions\": 11755, \"\\u0120respective\": 11756, \"/.\": 11757, \"\\u0120drinks\": 11758, \"\\u0120Wi\": 11759, \"\\u0120bands\": 11760, \"\\u0120Liverpool\": 11761, \"\\u0120grip\": 11762, \"\\u0120Buy\": 11763, \"\\u0120openly\": 11764, \"\\u0120reviewed\": 11765, \"pert\": 11766, \"\\u0120verify\": 11767, \"\\u0120Cole\": 11768, \"\\u0120Wales\": 11769, \"MO\": 11770, \"\\u0120unpre\": 11771, \"\\u0120shelter\": 11772, 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\"\\u0120Members\": 12688, \"\\u0120Peace\": 12689, \"\\u0120Airport\": 12690, \"\\u0120Others\": 12691, \"\\u0120scratch\": 12692, \"\\u0120Pil\": 12693, \"\\u0120sensor\": 12694, \"\\u0120adoption\": 12695, \"\\u0120Hotel\": 12696, \"\\u0120Drag\": 12697, \"\\u0120honestly\": 12698, \"\\u0120yard\": 12699, \"\\u0120Forces\": 12700, \"\\u0120patent\": 12701, \"\\u0120bass\": 12702, \"\\u0120quietly\": 12703, \"\\u0120breathing\": 12704, \"\\u0120pose\": 12705, \"iors\": 12706, \"\\u0120Jess\": 12707, \"static\": 12708, \"ITE\": 12709, \"Offic\": 12710, \"\\u0120jew\": 12711, \"wcs\": 12712, \"\\u0120140\": 12713, \"\\u0120preview\": 12714, \"ippi\": 12715, \"\\u0120unfortunately\": 12716, \"okemon\": 12717, \"\\u0120horn\": 12718, \"\\u0120reass\": 12719, \"\\u0120peer\": 12720, \"ocker\": 12721, \"\\u0120unto\": 12722, \"\\u0120Gray\": 12723, \"\\u0120cleaning\": 12724, \"\\u0120attracted\": 12725, \"2007\": 12726, \"Point\": 12727, \"kill\": 12728, \"\\u0120Agreement\": 12729, \"urches\": 12730, \"\\u0120horr\": 12731, \"\\u0120Mississ\": 12732, \"\\u0120worthy\": 12733, \"\\u0120flowers\": 12734, \"town\": 12735, \"dll\": 12736, \"\\u0120reactions\": 12737, \"\\u0120dece\": 12738, \"\\u0120indicating\": 12739, \"MD\": 12740, \"\\u0120preference\": 12741, \"\\u0120MVP\": 12742, \"essional\": 12743, \"\\u0120Target\": 12744, \"gence\": 12745, \"\\u0120Indians\": 12746, \"\\u0120misc\": 12747, \"\\u0120freely\": 12748, \"\\u0120muscles\": 12749, \"\\u0120lineup\": 12750, \"\\u0120impacts\": 12751, \"ousing\": 12752, \"omi\": 12753, \"acular\": 12754, \"\\u0120controlling\": 12755, \"agine\": 12756, \"cery\": 12757, \"hell\": 12758, \"\\u0120ranking\": 12759, \"\\u0120Nich\": 12760, \"\\u0120Ave\": 12761, \"128\": 12762, \"\\u0120highway\": 12763, \"\\u0120incons\": 12764, \"\\u0120binding\": 12765, \"\\u0120struggles\": 12766, \"\\u0120Pittsburgh\": 12767, \"\\u0120gray\": 12768, \"rin\": 12769, \"\\u0120comics\": 12770, \"\\u0120Sport\": 12771, 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\"\\u0120\\\"/\": 12813, \"Using\": 12814, \"\\u0120districts\": 12815, \"\\u0120Gate\": 12816, \"\\u0120Bir\": 12817, \"ridge\": 12818, \"\\u0120Naz\": 12819, \"\\u0120Rs\": 12820, \"boards\": 12821, \"\\u0120Ga\": 12822, \"\\u0120Reagan\": 12823, \"\\u0120influenced\": 12824, \"1000\": 12825, \"apy\": 12826, \"\\u0120challenged\": 12827, \"\\u0120barg\": 12828, \"\\u0120faculty\": 12829, \"\\u0120Fif\": 12830, \"\\u0120acquire\": 12831, \"Ac\": 12832, \"\\u0120insect\": 12833, \"\\u0120instruments\": 12834, \"\\u0120leaf\": 12835, \"thodox\": 12836, \"Message\": 12837, \"\\u0120tale\": 12838, \"\\u0120thereby\": 12839, \"\\u0120trap\": 12840, \"\\u0120strongest\": 12841, \"\\u0120Military\": 12842, \"isible\": 12843, \"\\u01201984\": 12844, \"etheless\": 12845, \"\\u0120flexible\": 12846, \"\\u0120kills\": 12847, \"\\u0120finishing\": 12848, \"\\u0120Size\": 12849, \"\\u0120reduces\": 12850, \"\\u0120epid\": 12851, \"\\u0120orientation\": 12852, \"full\": 12853, \"\\u0120trace\": 12854, \"\\u0120laser\": 12855, \"\\u0120oppose\": 12856, \"\\u0120editing\": 12857, \"\\u0120momentum\": 12858, \"\\u00e4\\u00ba\": 12859, \"show\": 12860, \"VI\": 12861, \"\\u0120Lad\": 12862, \"\\u01201985\": 12863, \"\\u0120murdered\": 12864, \"900\": 12865, \"uther\": 12866, \"\\u0120probability\": 12867, \"\\u0120Poll\": 12868, \"\\u0120reluct\": 12869, \"\\u0120Chem\": 12870, \"\\u0120Montreal\": 12871, \"\\u0120adequate\": 12872, \"\\u0120Poland\": 12873, \"\\u0120Sheriff\": 12874, \"umph\": 12875, \"\\u0120ok\": 12876, \"\\u0120000\": 12877, \"\\u0120\\\"[\": 12878, \"\\u0120operators\": 12879, \"\\u0120Fer\": 12880, \"\\u0120modes\": 12881, \"\\u0120Eve\": 12882, \"\\u0120discipline\": 12883, \"NET\": 12884, \"Hand\": 12885, \"\\u0120oral\": 12886, \"\\u0120WE\": 12887, \"email\": 12888, \"JP\": 12889, \"\\u0120Palestinians\": 12890, \"\\u0120hence\": 12891, \"\\u0120Less\": 12892, \"\\u0120overl\": 12893, \"dig\": 12894, \"\\u0120intimid\": 12895, \"\\u0120Coal\": 12896, \"\\u0120ranging\": 12897, \"tha\": 12898, \"\\u0120distant\": 12899, \"\\u0120fib\": 12900, \"\\u0120Index\": 12901, \"\\u0120Wonder\": 12902, \"\\u0120Pel\": 12903, \"hattan\": 12904, \"\\u0120Hug\": 12905, \"\\u00c3\\u0139\": 12906, \"rait\": 12907, \"\\u0120wrapped\": 12908, \"\\u0120RPG\": 12909, \"\\u0120chemicals\": 12910, \"\\u0120Money\": 12911, \"\\u0120frozen\": 12912, \"\\u0120indirect\": 12913, \"\\u0120Against\": 12914, \"End\": 12915, \"\\u0120uncomfortable\": 12916, \"\\u0120Gallery\": 12917, \"\\u0120Posted\": 12918, \"\\u00d8\\u00a7\": 12919, \"onduct\": 12920, \"\\u0120consequence\": 12921, \"\\u0120bitter\": 12922, \"\\u01201987\": 12923, \"pop\": 12924, \"\\u0120countless\": 12925, \"\\u0120Alaska\": 12926, \"ffff\": 12927, \"\\u0120departure\": 12928, \"\\u0120refund\": 12929, \"\\u0120Ian\": 12930, \"iated\": 12931, \"\\u0120seeks\": 12932, \"\\u0120mechanics\": 12933, \"\\u0120jurisdiction\": 12934, \"lynn\": 12935, \"\\u0120alike\": 12936, \"\\u0120Hunt\": 12937, \"athon\": 12938, \"\\u0120resolved\": 12939, \"\\u0120cache\": 12940, \"\\u0120distinction\": 12941, \"direct\": 12942, \"\\u0120encount\": 12943, \"oub\": 12944, \"beat\": 12945, \"\\u0120Country\": 12946, \"search\": 12947, \"\\u0120continuous\": 12948, \"\\u0120modest\": 12949, \"\\u0120Rail\": 12950, \"thood\": 12951, \"130\": 12952, \"BUG\": 12953, \"\\u0120criminals\": 12954, \"\\u0120indication\": 12955, \"\\u0120encountered\": 12956, \"last\": 12957, \"\\u0120Wy\": 12958, \"\\u0120ideology\": 12959, \"\\u0120PDF\": 12960, \"security\": 12961, \"])\": 12962, \"\\u0120Jimmy\": 12963, \"\\u0120EN\": 12964, \"\\u0120hiring\": 12965, \"Tem\": 12966, \"\\u0120pig\": 12967, \"aunt\": 12968, \"\\u0120Crystal\": 12969, \"\\u0120penalties\": 12970, \"\\u0120capability\": 12971, \"\\u0120py\": 12972, \"\\u0120productive\": 12973, \"\\u0120balanced\": 12974, \"\\u0120GeForce\": 12975, \"click\": 12976, \"olitan\": 12977, \"ods\": 12978, \"\\u0120afterwards\": 12979, \"\\u0120playoffs\": 12980, \"\\u0120Gill\": 12981, \"User\": 12982, \"\\u0120backs\": 12983, \"pub\": 12984, \"tag\": 12985, \"\\u0120absurd\": 12986, \"piring\": 12987, \"\\u0120citing\": 12988, \"\\u0120trillion\": 12989, \"\\u0120obligation\": 12990, \"\\u0120maxim\": 12991, \"ahoo\": 12992, \"cf\": 12993, \"umi\": 12994, \"\\u0120Alpha\": 12995, \"\\u0120Nelson\": 12996, \"\\u0120pursuant\": 12997, \"initely\": 12998, \"\\u0120fract\": 12999, \"entry\": 13000, \"bery\": 13001, \"\\u0120Thor\": 13002, \"Added\": 13003, \"\\u0120DJ\": 13004, \"\\u0120Gene\": 13005, \"\\u0120awkward\": 13006, \"Stud\": 13007, \"\\u0120wallet\": 13008, \"\\u0120Divine\": 13009, \"arios\": 13010, \"\\u0120releasing\": 13011, \"\\u0120edited\": 13012, \"\\u0120accomplished\": 13013, \"Best\": 13014, \"\\u0120edges\": 13015, \"\\u0120planes\": 13016, \"\\u0120feeding\": 13017, \"\\\"},\\\"\": 13018, \"\\u0120disclosure\": 13019, \"\\u0120grain\": 13020, \"airy\": 13021, \"oons\": 13022, \"ernand\": 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\"\\u0120orbit\": 13066, \"\\u0120Marc\": 13067, \"\\u0120exempt\": 13068, \"\\u0120Trail\": 13069, \"\\u0120MO\": 13070, \"\\u0120Hans\": 13071, \"\\u0120Weapon\": 13072, \"ocused\": 13073, \"uminum\": 13074, \"\\u0120Jerry\": 13075, \"\\u0120bust\": 13076, \"\\u0120AG\": 13077, \"\\u0120Wiki\": 13078, \"\\u0120endless\": 13079, \"\\u0120Vlad\": 13080, \"\\u0120Bah\": 13081, \"\\u0120Radeon\": 13082, \"keys\": 13083, \"\\u0120Survey\": 13084, \"\\u0120Viol\": 13085, \"define\": 13086, \"lean\": 13087, \"\\u0120commod\": 13088, \"\\u0120revenues\": 13089, \"\\u00c5\\u012f\": 13090, \"\\u0120furniture\": 13091, \"\\u0120casting\": 13092, \"\\u0120diplomatic\": 13093, \"\\u0120Players\": 13094, \"\\u0120Killed\": 13095, \"\\u0120modify\": 13096, \"\\u0120innovative\": 13097, \"\\u0120Abu\": 13098, \"nor\": 13099, \"\\u0120bonds\": 13100, \"\\u0120coaching\": 13101, \"Mer\": 13102, \"\\u0120modules\": 13103, \"\\u0120Patriots\": 13104, \"\\u0120enhanced\": 13105, \"\\u0120proceedings\": 13106, \"\\u0120teammates\": 13107, \"\\u0120128\": 13108, \"ardo\": 13109, \"\\u0120compromise\": 13110, \"\\u0120Much\": 13111, \"\\u0120flew\": 13112, \"\\u0120Edge\": 13113, \"\\u0120unnecessary\": 13114, \"\\u0120doctrine\": 13115, \"report\": 13116, \"\\u0120Orlando\": 13117, \"\\u0120Profile\": 13118, \"\\u0120playoff\": 13119, \"friendly\": 13120, \"\\u0120complain\": 13121, \"\\u0120MC\": 13122, \"\\u0120Opt\": 13123, \"\\u0120GB\": 13124, \"\\u0120beaten\": 13125, \"\\u0120golf\": 13126, \"\\u0120placement\": 13127, \"Bit\": 13128, \"\\u0120newsletter\": 13129, \"\\u01202019\": 13130, \"visor\": 13131, \"rawl\": 13132, \"\\u0120iPad\": 13133, \"\\u0120acted\": 13134, \"\\u0120juice\": 13135, \"\\u0120decks\": 13136, \"PN\": 13137, \"success\": 13138, \"\\u0120Half\": 13139, \"\\u0120deleted\": 13140, \"\\u0120secrets\": 13141, \"\\u0120asylum\": 13142, \"Mart\": 13143, \"\\u0120Activ\": 13144, \"\\u0120Guy\": 13145, \"\\u0120Ts\": 13146, \"\\u0120dys\": 13147, \"\\u0120assuming\": 13148, \"\\u0120mana\": 13149, \"\\u0120subur\": 13150, \"\\u0120125\": 13151, \"Media\": 13152, \"ARY\": 13153, \"ride\": 13154, \"cp\": 13155, \"\\u0120difficulties\": 13156, \"\\u0120collecting\": 13157, \"\\u0120bankrupt\": 13158, \"non\": 13159, \"\\u0120composed\": 13160, \"\\u0120volt\": 13161, \"\\u0120militants\": 13162, \"\\u0120>>>\": 13163, \"\\u0120Mormon\": 13164, \"tor\": 13165, \"\\u0120particles\": 13166, \"\\u0120Bart\": 13167, \"ryption\": 13168, \"\\u0120admin\": 13169, \"\\u0120squee\": 13170, \"VIDIA\": 13171, \"\\u0120creator\": 13172, \"iameter\": 13173, \"icular\": 13174, \"NBC\": 13175, \"\\u0120grabbed\": 13176, \"\\u0120nodd\": 13177, \"\\u0120rated\": 13178, \"\\u0120rotation\": 13179, \"\\u0120grasp\": 13180, \"\\u0120excessive\": 13181, \"\\u0120EC\": 13182, \"\\u0120Whit\": 13183, \"\\u0120inventory\": 13184, \"aults\": 13185, \"\\u0120FB\": 13186, \"\\u0120ecosystem\": 13187, \"\\u0120billions\": 13188, \"\\u0120venture\": 13189, \"named\": 13190, \"\\u0120defender\": 13191, \"oute\": 13192, \"Instead\": 13193, \"irable\": 13194, \"War\": 13195, \"\\u0120assumption\": 13196, \"\\u0120bite\": 13197, \"\\u0120earthqu\": 13198, \"tail\": 13199, \"space\": 13200, \"\\u0120gifts\": 13201, \"boys\": 13202, \"\\u0120inevitable\": 13203, \"\\u0120structural\": 13204, \"\\u0120beneficial\": 13205, \"\\u0120compelling\": 13206, \"hole\": 13207, \"ervation\": 13208, \"\\u0120coat\": 13209, \"oj\": 13210, \"incarn\": 13211, \"\\u0120Years\": 13212, \"\\u0120determining\": 13213, \"\\u0120rhetoric\": 13214, \"\\u0120boundaries\": 13215, \"\\u0120whites\": 13216, \"Ant\": 13217, \"addy\": 13218, \")-\": 13219, \"raham\": 13220, \"etermin\": 13221, \"\\u0120harvest\": 13222, \"\\u0120Conc\": 13223, \"\\u0120laptop\": 13224, \"\\u0120Match\": 13225, \"\\u0120enjoying\": 13226, \"cca\": 13227, \"ollar\": 13228, \"\\u0120trips\": 13229, \"\\u0120addiction\": 13230, \"\\u0120Sak\": 13231, \"\\u0120powered\": 13232, \"\\u0120cous\": 13233, \"\\u0120Russians\": 13234, \"iere\": 13235, \"\\u0120retrie\": 13236, \"quality\": 13237, \"\\u0120differ\": 13238, \"\\u0120kingdom\": 13239, \"\\u0120Laur\": 13240, \"\\u0120Capitol\": 13241, \"\\u0120conclusions\": 13242, \"\\u0120Altern\": 13243, \"\\u0120Nav\": 13244, \"\\u0120transparent\": 13245, \"BER\": 13246, \"Group\": 13247, \"\\u0120Complete\": 13248, \"\\u0120infer\": 13249, \"\\u0120intrig\": 13250, \"\\u0120insane\": 13251, \"RO\": 13252, \"ophob\": 13253, \"isen\": 13254, \"qual\": 13255, \"Michael\": 13256, \"\\u0120museum\": 13257, \"\\u0120Pope\": 13258, \"\\u0120reset\": 13259, \"rative\": 13260, \"five\": 13261, \"\\u0120aggreg\": 13262, \"ittees\": 13263, \"ository\": 13264, \"\\u0120carb\": 13265, \"\\u0120Record\": 13266, \"\\u0120decides\": 13267, \"\\u0120Fix\": 13268, \"\\u0120exceptions\": 13269, \"\\u0120Commissioner\": 13270, \"uns\": 13271, \"\\u0120Environmental\": 13272, \"\\u0120legendary\": 13273, \"istence\": 13274, \"\\u0120tunnel\": 13275, \"km\": 13276, \"\\u0120insult\": 13277, \"\\u0120troll\": 13278, \"\\u0120shake\": 13279, \"\\u0120detention\": 13280, \"ques\": 13281, \"\\u0120Chrome\": 13282, \"\\u0120Files\": 13283, \"\\u0120subt\": 13284, \"\\u0120prospects\": 13285, \"\\u0120prol\": 13286, \"render\": 13287, \"proof\": 13288, \"\\u0120performances\": 13289, \"Str\": 13290, \"\\u0120href\": 13291, \"ername\": 13292, \"\\u0120achievement\": 13293, \"\\u0120fut\": 13294, \"Full\": 13295, \"\\u0120Leban\": 13296, \"google\": 13297, \"\\u00e3\\u0125\\u012a\": 13298, \"ampa\": 13299, \"Maybe\": 13300, \"\\u0120projected\": 13301, \"\\u0120Emb\": 13302, \"\\u0120colleg\": 13303, \"\\u0120awards\": 13304, \"\\u0120\\u00e2\\u0136\": 13305, \"Gold\": 13306, \"\\u0120Blake\": 13307, \"\\u0120Raj\": 13308, \"ifting\": 13309, \"\\u0120pending\": 13310, \"\\u0120instinct\": 13311, \"\\u0120developments\": 13312, \"Connect\": 13313, \"\\u0120Mand\": 13314, \"\\u0120WITH\": 13315, \"\\u0120Philippines\": 13316, \"profile\": 13317, \"\\u0120altogether\": 13318, \"\\u0120Bund\": 13319, \"\\u0120TD\": 13320, \"oooo\": 13321, \"amped\": 13322, \"iph\": 13323, \"\\u0120steam\": 13324, \"\\u0120oldest\": 13325, \"\\u0120detection\": 13326, \"ulpt\": 13327, \"\\u0120\\u00e7\": 13328, \"\\u0120Wayne\": 13329, \"2006\": 13330, \"fa\": 13331, \"\\u0120circles\": 13332, \"\\u0120Fu\": 13333, \"\\u0120donors\": 13334, \"appropriate\": 13335, \"\\u0120Dakota\": 13336, \"jamin\": 13337, \"\\u0120motivated\": 13338, \"\\u0120purchases\": 13339, \"\\u0120Louisiana\": 13340, \"\\u0120Spl\": 13341, \"\\u0120globe\": 13342, \"\\u0120105\": 13343, \"zip\": 13344, \"call\": 13345, \"\\u0120departments\": 13346, \"\\u0120sustainable\": 13347, \"105\": 13348, \"\\u0120OP\": 13349, \"ifiers\": 13350, \"\\u0120prevented\": 13351, \"\\u0120incomp\": 13352, \"\\u0120Commander\": 13353, \"\\u0120dominated\": 13354, \"\\u0120\\u00c2\\u00bb\": 13355, \"\\u0120invested\": 13356, 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\"\\u0120texts\": 13399, \"\\u0120ugly\": 13400, \"\\u0120bio\": 13401, \".\\u00e2\\u0122\\u0136\": 13402, \"\\u0120Based\": 13403, \"\\u0120trains\": 13404, \"\\u0120Wing\": 13405, \"\\u0120Ancient\": 13406, \"\\u0120Records\": 13407, \"\\u0120Hope\": 13408, \"Special\": 13409, \"adesh\": 13410, \"obi\": 13411, \"[/\": 13412, \"\\u0120temporarily\": 13413, \"Ver\": 13414, \"hu\": 13415, \"oser\": 13416, \"\\u0120overnight\": 13417, \"\\u0120mamm\": 13418, \"\\u0120Treasury\": 13419, \"\\u0120Venezuel\": 13420, \"\\u0120Mega\": 13421, \"\\u0120tar\": 13422, \"\\u0120expects\": 13423, \"black\": 13424, \"orph\": 13425, \"\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\": 13426, \"\\u0120acceptance\": 13427, \"\\u0120radar\": 13428, \"sis\": 13429, \"\\u0120junior\": 13430, \"\\u0120frames\": 13431, \"\\u0120observation\": 13432, \"acies\": 13433, \"Power\": 13434, \"\\u0120Advanced\": 13435, \"Mag\": 13436, \"ologically\": 13437, \"\\u0120Mechan\": 13438, \"\\u0120sentences\": 13439, \"\\u0120analysts\": 13440, \"aughters\": 13441, \"forcement\": 13442, \"\\u0120vague\": 13443, \"\\u0120clause\": 13444, \"\\u0120directors\": 13445, \"\\u0120evaluate\": 13446, \"\\u0120cabinet\": 13447, \"Matt\": 13448, \"\\u0120Classic\": 13449, \"Ang\": 13450, \"\\u0120cler\": 13451, \"\\u0120Buck\": 13452, \"\\u0120researcher\": 13453, \"\\u0120160\": 13454, \"\\u0120poorly\": 13455, \"\\u0120experiencing\": 13456, \"\\u0120Ped\": 13457, \"\\u0120Manhattan\": 13458, \"\\u0120freed\": 13459, \"\\u0120themes\": 13460, \"advant\": 13461, \"\\u0120nin\": 13462, \"\\u0120praise\": 13463, \"104\": 13464, \"\\u0120Libya\": 13465, \"best\": 13466, \"\\u0120trusted\": 13467, \"\\u0120cease\": 13468, \"\\u0120dign\": 13469, \"Direct\": 13470, \"\\u0120bombing\": 13471, \"\\u0120migration\": 13472, \"\\u0120Sciences\": 13473, \"\\u0120municipal\": 13474, \"\\u0120Average\": 13475, \"\\u0120glory\": 13476, \"\\u0120revealing\": 13477, \"\\u0120arena\": 13478, \"\\u0120uncertainty\": 13479, \"\\u0120battlefield\": 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\"\\u0120slower\": 13611, \"\\u0120Parker\": 13612, \"\\u0120Student\": 13613, \"\\u0120Training\": 13614, \"Return\": 13615, \"\\u0120Tru\": 13616, \"\\u0120cub\": 13617, \"\\u0120Reached\": 13618, \"\\u0120panic\": 13619, \"\\u0120quarters\": 13620, \"\\u0120rect\": 13621, \"\\u0120treating\": 13622, \"\\u0120rats\": 13623, \"\\u0120Christianity\": 13624, \"oler\": 13625, \"\\u0120sacred\": 13626, \"\\u0120declare\": 13627, \"ulative\": 13628, \"eting\": 13629, \"\\u0120delivering\": 13630, \"estone\": 13631, \"\\u0120tel\": 13632, \"\\u0120Larry\": 13633, \"\\u0120meta\": 13634, \"accept\": 13635, \"artz\": 13636, \"\\u0120Roger\": 13637, \"handed\": 13638, \"\\u0120header\": 13639, \"\\u0120trapped\": 13640, \"\\u0120Century\": 13641, \"\\u0120knocked\": 13642, \"\\u0120Oxford\": 13643, \"\\u0120survivors\": 13644, \"bot\": 13645, \"\\u0120demonstration\": 13646, \"\\u0120dirt\": 13647, \"\\u0120assists\": 13648, \"OME\": 13649, \"\\u0120Draft\": 13650, \"ortunate\": 13651, \"folio\": 13652, \"pered\": 13653, \"usters\": 13654, \"gt\": 13655, \"\\u0120Lock\": 13656, \"\\u0120judicial\": 13657, \"verted\": 13658, \"\\u0120secured\": 13659, \"outing\": 13660, \"\\u0120Books\": 13661, \"\\u0120hosting\": 13662, \"\\u0120lifted\": 13663, \"length\": 13664, \"\\u0120jer\": 13665, \"\\u0120wheels\": 13666, \"\\u0120Range\": 13667, \"umbnails\": 13668, \"\\u0120diagnosis\": 13669, \"tech\": 13670, \"\\u0120Stewart\": 13671, \"\\u0120Pract\": 13672, \"\\u0120nationwide\": 13673, \"\\u0120dear\": 13674, \"\\u0120obligations\": 13675, \"\\u0120grows\": 13676, \"\\u0120mandatory\": 13677, \"\\u0120suspicious\": 13678, \"!'\": 13679, \"Apr\": 13680, \"Great\": 13681, \"\\u0120mortgage\": 13682, \"\\u0120prosecutor\": 13683, \"\\u0120editorial\": 13684, \"\\u0120Kr\": 13685, \"\\u0120processed\": 13686, \"ungle\": 13687, \"\\u0120flexibility\": 13688, \"Earlier\": 13689, \"\\u0120Cart\": 13690, \"\\u0120Sug\": 13691, \"\\u0120focuses\": 13692, \"\\u0120startup\": 13693, \"\\u0120breach\": 13694, \"\\u0120Tob\": 13695, \"cycle\": 13696, \"\\u00e3\\u0122\\u012e\": 13697, \"rose\": 13698, \"\\u0120bizarre\": 13699, \"\\u00e3\\u0122\\u012f\": 13700, \"\\u0120vegetables\": 13701, \"$$\": 13702, \"\\u0120retreat\": 13703, \"oshi\": 13704, \"\\u0120Shop\": 13705, \"\\u0120Ground\": 13706, \"\\u0120Stop\": 13707, \"\\u0120Hawaii\": 13708, \"\\u0120Ay\": 13709, \"Perhaps\": 13710, \"\\u0120Beaut\": 13711, \"uffer\": 13712, \"enna\": 13713, \"\\u0120productivity\": 13714, \"Fixed\": 13715, \"control\": 13716, \"\\u0120absent\": 13717, \"\\u0120Campaign\": 13718, \"Green\": 13719, \"\\u0120identifying\": 13720, \"\\u0120regret\": 13721, \"\\u0120promoted\": 13722, \"\\u0120Seven\": 13723, \"\\u0120eru\": 13724, \"neath\": 13725, \"aughed\": 13726, \"\\u0120Pin\": 13727, \"\\u0120Living\": 13728, \"Cost\": 13729, \"omatic\": 13730, \"mega\": 13731, \"\\u0120Nig\": 13732, \"ocy\": 13733, \"\\u0120inbox\": 13734, \"\\u0120empire\": 13735, \"\\u0120horizont\": 13736, \"\\u0120branches\": 13737, \"\\u0120metaph\": 13738, \"Active\": 13739, \"edi\": 13740, \"\\u0120Film\": 13741, \"\\u0120Something\": 13742, \"\\u0120mods\": 13743, \"incial\": 13744, \"\\u0120Original\": 13745, \"Gen\": 13746, \"\\u0120spirits\": 13747, \"\\u0120earning\": 13748, \"Hist\": 13749, \"\\u0120riders\": 13750, \"\\u0120sacrific\": 13751, \"MT\": 13752, \"\\u0120VA\": 13753, \"\\u0120Salt\": 13754, \"\\u0120occupation\": 13755, \"\\u0120Mi\": 13756, \"\\u0120disg\": 13757, \"lict\": 13758, \"\\u0120nit\": 13759, \"\\u0120nodes\": 13760, \"eem\": 13761, \"\\u0120Pier\": 13762, \"\\u0120hatred\": 13763, \"psy\": 13764, \"\\u00e3\\u0125\\u012b\": 13765, \"\\u0120theater\": 13766, \"\\u0120sophisticated\": 13767, \"\\u0120defended\": 13768, \"\\u0120besides\": 13769, \"\\u0120thoroughly\": 13770, \"\\u0120Medicare\": 13771, \"\\u0120blamed\": 13772, \"arently\": 13773, \"\\u0120crying\": 13774, \"FOR\": 13775, \"priv\": 13776, \"\\u0120singing\": 13777, \"\\u0120Il\": 13778, \"\\u0120cute\": 13779, \"oided\": 13780, \"olitical\": 13781, \"\\u0120Neuro\": 13782, \"\\u00e5\\u00a4\": 13783, \"\\u0120donation\": 13784, \"\\u0120Eagles\": 13785, \"\\u0120Give\": 13786, \"Tom\": 13787, \"\\u0120substantially\": 13788, \"\\u0120License\": 13789, \"\\u0120Ja\": 13790, \"\\u0120grey\": 13791, \"\\u0120Animal\": 13792, \"\\u0120ER\": 13793, \"\\u0120Und\": 13794, \"\\u0120keen\": 13795, \"\\u0120conclude\": 13796, \"\\u0120Mississippi\": 13797, \"Engine\": 13798, \"\\u0120Studios\": 13799, \"Press\": 13800, \"overs\": 13801, \"llers\": 13802, \"\\u0120350\": 13803, \"\\u0120Rangers\": 13804, \"\\u0120rou\": 13805, \"erto\": 13806, \"Ep\": 13807, \"issa\": 13808, \"ivan\": 13809, \"\\u0120seal\": 13810, \"\\u0120Regist\": 13811, \"display\": 13812, \"\\u0120weaken\": 13813, \"uum\": 13814, \"\\u0120Commons\": 13815, \"\\u0120Say\": 13816, \"\\u0120cultures\": 13817, \"\\u0120laughed\": 13818, \"\\u0120slip\": 13819, \"\\u0120treatments\": 13820, \"izable\": 13821, \"mart\": 13822, \"\\u0120Rice\": 13823, \"\\u0120beast\": 13824, \"\\u0120obesity\": 13825, \"\\u0120Laure\": 13826, \"iga\": 13827, \"Which\": 13828, \"holder\": 13829, \"\\u0120elderly\": 13830, \"\\u0120pays\": 13831, \"\\u0120complained\": 13832, \"\\u0120crop\": 13833, \"\\u0120proc\": 13834, \"\\u0120explosive\": 13835, \"\\u0120Fan\": 13836, \"\\u0120Arsenal\": 13837, \"Author\": 13838, \"eful\": 13839, \"\\u0120meals\": 13840, \"\\u0120(-\": 13841, \"idays\": 13842, \"\\u0120imagination\": 13843, \"\\u0120annually\": 13844, \"\\u0120ms\": 13845, \"asures\": 13846, \"Head\": 13847, \"ikh\": 13848, \"matic\": 13849, \"\\u0120boyfriend\": 13850, \"\\u0120Computer\": 13851, \"\\u0120bump\": 13852, \"\\u0120surge\": 13853, \"\\u0120Craig\": 13854, \"\\u0120Kirk\": 13855, \"Del\": 13856, \"mediate\": 13857, \"\\u0120scenarios\": 13858, \"\\u0120Mut\": 13859, \"\\u0120Stream\": 13860, \"\\u0120competitors\": 13861, \"\\u00d9\\u0126\": 13862, \"\\u0120Stanford\": 13863, \"\\u0120Resources\": 13864, \"azed\": 13865, \"bage\": 13866, \"\\u0120organis\": 13867, \"\\u0120Release\": 13868, \"\\u0120separately\": 13869, \"\\u0120habits\": 13870, \"\\u0120measurements\": 13871, \"\\u0120Close\": 13872, \"\\u0120accompany\": 13873, \"\\u0120gly\": 13874, \"\\u0120tang\": 13875, \"\\u0120Rou\": 13876, \"\\u0120plugin\": 13877, \"\\u0120convey\": 13878, \"\\u0120Challenge\": 13879, \"oots\": 13880, \"jan\": 13881, \"\\u0120curs\": 13882, \"\\u0120Relations\": 13883, \"keeper\": 13884, \"\\u0120approaching\": 13885, \"ping\": 13886, \"Speaking\": 13887, \"\\u0120arrangement\": 13888, \"\\u0120VI\": 13889, \"arettes\": 13890, \"\\u0120affecting\": 13891, \"\\u0120permits\": 13892, \"because\": 13893, \"\\u0120useless\": 13894, \"\\u0120Hus\": 13895, \"!!!!\": 13896, \"\\u0120destroying\": 13897, \"Unfortunately\": 13898, \"\\u0120fascinating\": 13899, \"Sem\": 13900, \"\\u0120electoral\": 13901, \"\\u0120transparency\": 13902, \"\\u0120Chaos\": 13903, \"\\u0120volunteer\": 13904, \"\\u0120statistical\": 13905, \"\\u0120activated\": 13906, \"rox\": 13907, \"Web\": 13908, \"HE\": 13909, \"\\u0120Hampshire\": 13910, \"isive\": 13911, \"Map\": 13912, \"\\u0120trash\": 13913, \"\\u0120Lawrence\": 13914, \"stick\": 13915, \"Cr\": 13916, \"\\u0120rings\": 13917, \"EXT\": 13918, \"\\u0120operational\": 13919, \"opes\": 13920, \"Does\": 13921, \"\\u0120Evans\": 13922, \"\\u0120witnessed\": 13923, \"Port\": 13924, \"\\u0120launching\": 13925, \"econom\": 13926, \"wear\": 13927, \"\\u0120Particip\": 13928, \"umm\": 13929, \"cules\": 13930, \"\\u0120RAM\": 13931, \"\\u0120Tun\": 13932, \"\\u0120assured\": 13933, \"\\u0120binary\": 13934, \"\\u0120betray\": 13935, \"\\u0120exploration\": 13936, \"\\u0120Fel\": 13937, \"\\u0120admission\": 13938, \"itated\": 13939, \"Sy\": 13940, \"\\u0120avoided\": 13941, \"\\u0120Simulator\": 13942, \"\\u0120celebrated\": 13943, \"\\u0120Electric\": 13944, \"\\u00a5\\u0140\": 13945, \"\\u0120cluster\": 13946, \"itzerland\": 13947, \"health\": 13948, \"Line\": 13949, \"\\u0120Nash\": 13950, \"aton\": 13951, \"\\u0120spare\": 13952, \"\\u0120enterprise\": 13953, \"\\u0120DIS\": 13954, \"cludes\": 13955, \"\\u0120flights\": 13956, \"\\u0120regards\": 13957, \"\\u0120\\u00c3\\u0139\": 13958, \"half\": 13959, \"\\u0120trucks\": 13960, \"\\u0120contacts\": 13961, \"\\u0120uncons\": 13962, \"\\u0120Climate\": 13963, \"\\u0120immense\": 13964, \"NEW\": 13965, \"occ\": 13966, \"ective\": 13967, \"\\u0120embod\": 13968, \"\\u0120patrol\": 13969, \"\\u0120beside\": 13970, \"\\u0120viable\": 13971, \"\\u0120creep\": 13972, \"\\u0120triggered\": 13973, \"verning\": 13974, \"\\u0120comparable\": 13975, \"ql\": 13976, \"\\u0120gaining\": 13977, \"asses\": 13978, \"\\u0120();\": 13979, \"\\u0120Grey\": 13980, \"\\u0120MLS\": 13981, \"sized\": 13982, \"\\u0120prosper\": 13983, \"\\\"?\": 13984, \"\\u0120polling\": 13985, \"\\u0120shar\": 13986, \"\\u0120RC\": 13987, \"\\u0120firearm\": 13988, \"orient\": 13989, \"\\u0120fence\": 13990, \"\\u0120variations\": 13991, \"giving\": 13992, \"\\u0120Pi\": 13993, \"ospel\": 13994, \"\\u0120pledge\": 13995, \"\\u0120cure\": 13996, \"\\u0120spy\": 13997, \"\\u0120violated\": 13998, \"\\u0120rushed\": 13999, \"\\u0120stroke\": 14000, \"\\u0120Blog\": 14001, \"sels\": 14002, \"\\u0120Ec\": 14003, \",''\": 14004, \"\\u0120pale\": 14005, \"\\u0120Collins\": 14006, \"terror\": 14007, \"\\u0120Canadians\": 14008, \"\\u0120tune\": 14009, \"\\u0120laboratory\": 14010, \"\\u0120nons\": 14011, \"tarian\": 14012, \"\\u0120disability\": 14013, \"\\u0120Gam\": 14014, \"\\u0120singer\": 14015, \"alg\": 14016, \"\\u0120Senior\": 14017, \"\\u0120traded\": 14018, \"\\u0120Warrior\": 14019, \"\\u0120infring\": 14020, \"\\u0120Franklin\": 14021, \"\\u0120strain\": 14022, \"\\u0120Swedish\": 14023, \"\\u0120seventh\": 14024, \"\\u0120Benn\": 14025, \"\\u0120Tell\": 14026, \"\\u0120syndrome\": 14027, \"\\u0120wondered\": 14028, 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\"Disc\": 15642, \"fin\": 15643, \"\\u0120Personal\": 15644, \"Chris\": 15645, \"\\u0120invented\": 15646, \"\\u0120dive\": 15647, \"\\u0120Rise\": 15648, \"\\u0120oz\": 15649, \"\\u0120Comics\": 15650, \"\\u0120expose\": 15651, \"\\u0120Reb\": 15652, \"letters\": 15653, \"site\": 15654, \"imated\": 15655, \"\\u0120hacking\": 15656, \"\\u0120educated\": 15657, \"\\u0120Nobody\": 15658, \"\\u0120depri\": 15659, \"\\u0120incentive\": 15660, \"\\u00e3\\u0124\\u00b7\": 15661, \"\\u0120oversight\": 15662, \"\\u0120tribes\": 15663, \"\\u0120Belgium\": 15664, \"\\u0120licensing\": 15665, \"ourt\": 15666, \"Product\": 15667, \"ahl\": 15668, \"\\u0120Gem\": 15669, \"\\u0120specialist\": 15670, \"\\u0120cra\": 15671, \"anners\": 15672, \"\\u0120Corbyn\": 15673, \"\\u01201973\": 15674, \"READ\": 15675, \"\\u0120summar\": 15676, \"\\u0120overlook\": 15677, \"\\u0120Application\": 15678, \"\\u0120inappropriate\": 15679, \"\\u0120downloaded\": 15680, \"Que\": 15681, \"\\u0120Bears\": 15682, \"\\u0120thumb\": 15683, \"\\u0120Character\": 15684, \"\\u0120Reincarnated\": 15685, \"\\u0120Sid\": 15686, \"\\u0120demonstrates\": 15687, \"sky\": 15688, \"\\u0120Bloomberg\": 15689, \"\\u0120Array\": 15690, \"\\u0120Results\": 15691, \"\\u0120Fourth\": 15692, \"\\u0120EDT\": 15693, \"\\u0120Oscar\": 15694, \"cend\": 15695, \"\\u0120106\": 15696, \"\\u0120NULL\": 15697, \"\\u0120HERE\": 15698, \"match\": 15699, \"\\u0120Brun\": 15700, \"\\u0120glucose\": 15701, \"ieg\": 15702, \"egu\": 15703, \"\\u0120certified\": 15704, \"\\u0120relie\": 15705, \"\\u0120humanitarian\": 15706, \"\\u0120prayers\": 15707, \"King\": 15708, \"\\u0120nan\": 15709, \"hou\": 15710, \"108\": 15711, \"ulu\": 15712, \"\\u0120renewable\": 15713, \"\\u0120distinguish\": 15714, \"\\u0120dense\": 15715, \"\\u0120Vent\": 15716, \"\\u0120Package\": 15717, \"\\u0120Boss\": 15718, \"\\u0120editors\": 15719, \"\\u0120migr\": 15720, \"Tra\": 15721, \"\\u0120Peters\": 15722, \"\\u0120Arctic\": 15723, \"2004\": 15724, \"\\u0120Cape\": 15725, \"\\u0120locally\": 15726, \"\\u0120lasting\": 15727, \"\\u0120handy\": 15728, \".).\": 15729, \"Pan\": 15730, \"\\u0120RES\": 15731, \"Index\": 15732, \"\\u0120tensions\": 15733, \"\\u0120formerly\": 15734, \"\\u0120ideological\": 15735, \"\\u0120sensors\": 15736, \"\\u0120dealers\": 15737, \"\\u0120defines\": 15738, \"Sk\": 15739, \"\\u0120proceeds\": 15740, \"\\u0120proxy\": 15741, \"azines\": 15742, \"\\u0120Bash\": 15743, \"\\u0120Pad\": 15744, \"\\u0120Craft\": 15745, \"ealous\": 15746, \"\\u0120sheets\": 15747, \"ometry\": 15748, \"June\": 15749, \"clock\": 15750, \"TT\": 15751, \"\\u0120Theatre\": 15752, \"\\u0120Buzz\": 15753, \"\\u0120chapters\": 15754, \"\\u0120millenn\": 15755, \"\\u0120dough\": 15756, \"\\u0120Congressional\": 15757, \"\\u0120imagined\": 15758, \"avior\": 15759, \"\\u0120clinic\": 15760, \"\\u01201945\": 15761, \"\\u0120holder\": 15762, \"root\": 15763, \"olester\": 15764, \"\\u0120restart\": 15765, \"BN\": 15766, \"\\u0120Hamas\": 15767, \"\\u0120Job\": 15768, \"\\u0120orb\": 15769, \"\\u0120ram\": 15770, \"\\u0120disclose\": 15771, \"\\u0120translate\": 15772, \"\\u0120immigrant\": 15773, \"\\u0120annoying\": 15774, \"\\u0120treaty\": 15775, \"anium\": 15776, \"\\u0120Tea\": 15777, \"\\u0120Legion\": 15778, \"\\u0120crowds\": 15779, \"\\u0120Bec\": 15780, \"\\u0120Aer\": 15781, \"ohyd\": 15782, \"Bro\": 15783, \"Looking\": 15784, \"\\u0120lbs\": 15785, \"\\u0120aggress\": 15786, \"\\u0120seam\": 15787, \"\\u0120intercept\": 15788, \"\\u0120MI\": 15789, \"mercial\": 15790, \"activ\": 15791, \"\\u0120Cit\": 15792, \"\\u0120dimension\": 15793, \"\\u0120consistency\": 15794, \"\\u0120rushing\": 15795, \"\\u0120Douglas\": 15796, \"\\u0120trim\": 15797, \"Install\": 15798, \"icker\": 15799, \"\\u0120shy\": 15800, \"106\": 15801, \"\\u0120mentions\": 15802, \"pelled\": 15803, \"\\u0120Tak\": 15804, \"cost\": 15805, \"\\u0120classroom\": 15806, \"\\u0120fortune\": 15807, \"driven\": 15808, \"\\u0120unle\": 15809, \"\\u0120Wheel\": 15810, \"\\u0120investor\": 15811, \"\\u0120Masters\": 15812, \"kit\": 15813, \"\\u0120associations\": 15814, \"\\u0120Evolution\": 15815, \"oping\": 15816, \"uscript\": 15817, \"\\u0120provincial\": 15818, \"\\u0120Walter\": 15819, \"avi\": 15820, \"SO\": 15821, \"\\u0120unlimited\": 15822, \"English\": 15823, \"\\u0120Cards\": 15824, \"\\u0120Ebola\": 15825, \"nered\": 15826, \"\\u0120revenge\": 15827, \"\\u0120outright\": 15828, \"umper\": 15829, \"\\u0120fitting\": 15830, \"\\u0120Solid\": 15831, \"\\u0120formally\": 15832, \"\\u0120problematic\": 15833, \"\\u0120hazard\": 15834, \"\\u0120encryption\": 15835, \"\\u0120straightforward\": 15836, \"\\u0120AK\": 15837, \"\\u0120pse\": 15838, \"\\u0120Orb\": 15839, \"\\u0120Chamber\": 15840, \"\\u0120Mak\": 15841, \"Contents\": 15842, \"\\u0120loyalty\": 15843, \"\\u0120lyrics\": 15844, \"\\u0120Sym\": 15845, \"\\u0120welcomed\": 15846, \"\\u0120cooked\": 15847, \"\\u0120monop\": 15848, \"\\u0120nurse\": 15849, \"\\u0120misleading\": 15850, \"\\u0120eternal\": 15851, \"\\u0120shifting\": 15852, \"\\u0120+=\": 15853, \"Vis\": 15854, \"\\u0120institutional\": 15855, \"illary\": 15856, \"\\u0120pant\": 15857, \"VERT\": 15858, \"\\u0120ACC\": 15859, \"\\u0120Enh\": 15860, \"\\u0120incon\": 15861, \"\\u0120REUTERS\": 15862, \"\\u0120donated\": 15863, \"\\u00e2\\u0122\\u00a6\\u00e2\\u0122\\u00a6\\u00e2\\u0122\\u00a6\\u00e2\\u0122\\u00a6\": 15864, \"Intern\": 15865, \"\\u0120exhibit\": 15866, \"\\u0120tire\": 15867, \"\\u0120Ric\": 15868, \"\\u0120Champion\": 15869, \"\\u0120Muhammad\": 15870, \"NING\": 15871, \"\\u0120Soccer\": 15872, \"\\u0120mobility\": 15873, \"\\u0120varying\": 15874, \"\\u0120Movie\": 15875, \"\\u0120lord\": 15876, \"oak\": 15877, \"Field\": 15878, \"\\u0120vector\": 15879, \"usions\": 15880, \"\\u0120scrap\": 15881, \"\\u0120enabling\": 15882, \"make\": 15883, \"Tor\": 15884, \".*\": 15885, \"||\": 15886, \"\\u0120Website\": 15887, \"\\u0120NPC\": 15888, \"\\u0120socialist\": 15889, \"\\u0120Billy\": 15890, \"\\u0120Additional\": 15891, \"\\u0120cargo\": 15892, \"\\u0120farms\": 15893, \"\\u0120Soon\": 15894, \"\\u0120Prize\": 15895, \"\\u0120midnight\": 15896, \"\\u0120900\": 15897, \"seen\": 15898, \"\\u0120Spot\": 15899, \"\\u0120sheep\": 15900, \"\\u0120sponsored\": 15901, \"\\u0120Hi\": 15902, \"\\u0120Jump\": 15903, \"\\u01201967\": 15904, \"Microsoft\": 15905, \"\\u0120Agent\": 15906, \"\\u0120charts\": 15907, \"dir\": 15908, \"\\u0120adjacent\": 15909, \"\\u0120tricks\": 15910, \"\\u0120manga\": 15911, \"\\u0120exagger\": 15912, \"/>\": 15913, \"football\": 15914, \"\\u0120FCC\": 15915, \"GC\": 15916, \"\\u0120Tier\": 15917, \"andra\": 15918, \"OUND\": 15919, \"%),\": 15920, \"\\u0120fruits\": 15921, \"VC\": 15922, \"\\u0120AA\": 15923, \"Rober\": 15924, \"\\u0120midst\": 15925, \"\\u00e2\\u0139\": 15926, \"anka\": 15927, \"\\u0120legislature\": 15928, \"\\u0120Neil\": 15929, \"\\u0120tourists\": 15930, \"\\\"\\\"\": 15931, \"\\u0120Warning\": 15932, \"\\u0120Nevertheless\": 15933, \"\\u0120Official\": 15934, \"\\u0120Whatever\": 15935, \"\\u0120mold\": 15936, \"\\u0120drafted\": 15937, \"\\u0120substances\": 15938, \"\\u0120breed\": 15939, \"\\u0120tags\": 15940, \"\\u0120Task\": 15941, \"\\u0120verb\": 15942, \"\\u0120manufactured\": 15943, \"comments\": 15944, \"\\u0120Polish\": 15945, \"Prov\": 15946, \"\\u0120determines\": 15947, \"Obama\": 15948, \"kers\": 15949, \"\\u0120utterly\": 15950, \"\\u0120sect\": 15951, \"sche\": 15952, \"\\u0120Gates\": 15953, \"\\u0120Chap\": 15954, \"\\u0120aluminum\": 15955, \"\\u0120zombie\": 15956, \"\\u0120Touch\": 15957, \"\\u0120UP\": 15958, \"\\u0120satisfy\": 15959, \"\\u0120predomin\": 15960, \"ascript\": 15961, \"\\u0120elaborate\": 15962, \"\\u01201968\": 15963, \"\\u0120measuring\": 15964, \"\\u0120Vari\": 15965, \"anyahu\": 15966, \"\\u0120sir\": 15967, \"ulates\": 15968, \"idges\": 15969, \"ickets\": 15970, \"\\u0120Spencer\": 15971, \"TM\": 15972, \"oubted\": 15973, \"\\u0120prey\": 15974, \"\\u0120installing\": 15975, \"\\u0120Cab\": 15976, \"reed\": 15977, \"reated\": 15978, \"Supp\": 15979, \"\\u0120wrist\": 15980, \"\\u0120Kerry\": 15981, \"107\": 15982, \"\\u0120Kle\": 15983, \"\\u0120Rachel\": 15984, \"\\u0120cotton\": 15985, \"\\u0120ARE\": 15986, \"\\u0120Ele\": 15987, \"Control\": 15988, \"\\u0120loads\": 15989, \"\\u0120Dod\": 15990, \"anas\": 15991, \"bone\": 15992, \"\\u0120classical\": 15993, \"\\u0120Regional\": 15994, \"\\u0120Integ\": 15995, \"VM\": 15996, \"\\u0120desires\": 15997, \"\\u0120autism\": 15998, \"supported\": 15999, \"\\u0120Message\": 16000, \"\\u0120compact\": 16001, \"writer\": 16002, \"\\u0120109\": 16003, \"\\u0120Hurricane\": 16004, \"cision\": 16005, \"\\u0120cycles\": 16006, \"\\u0120drill\": 16007, \"\\u0120colleague\": 16008, \"\\u0120maker\": 16009, \"German\": 16010, \"\\u0120mistaken\": 16011, \"Sun\": 16012, \"\\u0120Gay\": 16013, \"\\u0120whatsoever\": 16014, \"\\u0120sells\": 16015, \"\\u0120Airl\": 16016, \"liv\": 16017, \"\\u0120Option\": 16018, \"\\u0120solved\": 16019, \"\\u0120sectors\": 16020, \"\\u0120horizontal\": 16021, \"\\u0120equation\": 16022, \"\\u0120Skill\": 16023, \"\\u0120Bio\": 16024, \"gement\": 16025, \"\\u0120Snap\": 16026, \"\\u0120Legal\": 16027, \"\\u0120trademark\": 16028, \"\\u0120makeup\": 16029, \"\\u0120assembled\": 16030, \"\\u0120saves\": 16031, \"\\u0120Halloween\": 16032, \"\\u0120Vermont\": 16033, \"\\u0120FROM\": 16034, \"\\u0120farming\": 16035, \"\\u0120Podcast\": 16036, \"acceptable\": 16037, \"\\u0120Higher\": 16038, \"\\u0120asleep\": 16039, \"ullivan\": 16040, \"\\u0120referen\": 16041, \"\\u0120Lev\": 16042, \"\\u0120bullets\": 16043, \"oko\": 16044, \"HC\": 16045, \"\\u0120stairs\": 16046, \"\\u0120maintains\": 16047, \"\\u0120Lower\": 16048, \"\\u0120Vi\": 16049, \"\\u0120marine\": 16050, \"\\u0120acres\": 16051, \"\\u0120coordinator\": 16052, \"\\u0120Joh\": 16053, \"\\u0120counterparts\": 16054, \"\\u0120Brothers\": 16055, \"\\u0120indict\": 16056, \"bra\": 16057, \"\\u0120chunk\": 16058, \"\\u0120cents\": 16059, \"Home\": 16060, \"\\u0120Month\": 16061, \"\\u0120accordingly\": 16062, \"ifles\": 16063, \"\\u0120Germans\": 16064, \"\\u0120Syn\": 16065, \"Hub\": 16066, \"\\u0120eyeb\": 16067, \"\\u00e2\\u0136\\u0122\\u00e2\\u0136\\u0122\\u00e2\\u0136\\u0122\\u00e2\\u0136\\u0122\": 16068, \"\\u0120ranges\": 16069, \"\\u0120Holland\": 16070, \"\\u0120Robot\": 16071, \"fc\": 16072, \"Mike\": 16073, \"\\u0120plasma\": 16074, \"\\u0120swap\": 16075, \"\\u0120athlete\": 16076, \"\\u0120Rams\": 16077, \",'\\\"\": 16078, \"\\u0120infections\": 16079, \"\\u0120corrid\": 16080, \"\\u0120vib\": 16081, \"\\u0120patches\": 16082, \"\\u0120traditionally\": 16083, \"\\u0120revelation\": 16084, \"\\u0120sweep\": 16085, \"\\u0120glance\": 16086, \"\\u0120inex\": 16087, \"2003\": 16088, \"\\u0120Raw\": 16089, \"working\": 16090, \"osures\": 16091, \"\\u0120Dat\": 16092, \"\\u0120Lynch\": 16093, \"\\u0120leverage\": 16094, \"\\u0120Reid\": 16095, \"\\u0120correlation\": 16096, \"iances\": 16097, \"avascript\": 16098, \"\\u0120repository\": 16099, \"retty\": 16100, \"\\u01201972\": 16101, \"240\": 16102, \"\\u0120oun\": 16103, \"pol\": 16104, \"\\u0120Reed\": 16105, \"\\u0120tactical\": 16106, \"isite\": 16107, \"Apple\": 16108, \"\\u0120Quinn\": 16109, \"\\u0120raped\": 16110, \"illo\": 16111, \"Europe\": 16112, \"\\u0120algorithms\": 16113, \"\\u0120Rodrig\": 16114, \"iu\": 16115, \"\\u0120illum\": 16116, \"\\u0120fame\": 16117, \"\\u0120introducing\": 16118, \"\\u0120delays\": 16119, \"\\u0120Raiders\": 16120, \"\\u0120whistle\": 16121, \"\\u0120novels\": 16122, \"\\u0120Really\": 16123, \"\\u0120deriv\": 16124, \"\\u0120publications\": 16125, \"\\u0120Neither\": 16126, \"\\u0120Commerce\": 16127, \"\\u0120aston\": 16128, \"language\": 16129, \"Notes\": 16130, \"\\u0120Roth\": 16131, \"\\u0120Fear\": 16132, \"\\u0120mate\": 16133, \"\\u0120parade\": 16134, \"\\u0120QB\": 16135, \"\\u0120maneu\": 16136, \"\\u0120Cincinnati\": 16137, \"mitting\": 16138, \"\\u0120waist\": 16139, \"\\u0120Rew\": 16140, \"\\u0120discont\": 16141, \"\\u00d0\\u00b0\": 16142, \"\\u0120staring\": 16143, \"\\u0120alias\": 16144, \"\\u0120securities\": 16145, \"\\u0120toilet\": 16146, \"\\u0120Jedi\": 16147, \"\\u0120unlaw\": 16148, \"vised\": 16149, \"////////\": 16150, \"](\": 16151, \"\\u0120Weiss\": 16152, \"\\u0120prest\": 16153, \"\\u0120Compan\": 16154, \"\\u0120memo\": 16155, \"\\u0120Grace\": 16156, \"July\": 16157, \"\\u0120Elite\": 16158, \"center\": 16159, \"\\u0120Stay\": 16160, \"\\u0120galaxy\": 16161, \"\\u0120tooth\": 16162, \"\\u0120Settings\": 16163, \"\\u0120subjected\": 16164, \"\\u00e3\\u0124\\u00a6\": 16165, \"\\u0120lineback\": 16166, \"\\u0120retailers\": 16167, \"\\u0120Want\": 16168, \"\\u0120dangers\": 16169, \"Air\": 16170, \"\\u0120voluntary\": 16171, \"eway\": 16172, \"\\u0120interpreted\": 16173, \"otine\": 16174, \"\\u00c3\\u00a7\": 16175, \"\\u0120pel\": 16176, \"Service\": 16177, \"\\u0120Eventually\": 16178, \"\\u0120careers\": 16179, \"\\u0120threaten\": 16180, \"\\u0120memor\": 16181, \"\\u0120Bradley\": 16182, \"ancies\": 16183, \"sn\": 16184, \"\\u0120Unknown\": 16185, \"National\": 16186, \"\\u0120shadows\": 16187, \"ailand\": 16188, \"\\u0120Dash\": 16189, \"Everyone\": 16190, \"izzard\": 16191, \"March\": 16192, \"=(\": 16193, \"\\u0120pulls\": 16194, \"\\u0120stranger\": 16195, \"\\u0120backwards\": 16196, \"\\u0120Bernard\": 16197, \"imensional\": 16198, \"\\u0120chron\": 16199, \"\\u0120theoretical\": 16200, \"ktop\": 16201, \"\\u0120ware\": 16202, \"\\u0120Investig\": 16203, \"\\u0120Initi\": 16204, \"\\u0120Operations\": 16205, \"oven\": 16206, \"ocide\": 16207, \"*/\": 16208, \"\\u0120flames\": 16209, \"\\u0120Cash\": 16210, \"shit\": 16211, \"\\u0120cab\": 16212, \"\\u0120Analy\": 16213, \"\\u0120Seah\": 16214, \"\\u0120defining\": 16215, \"\\u0120ordering\": 16216, \"\\u0120immun\": 16217, \"\\u0120persistent\": 16218, \"ACH\": 16219, \"Russian\": 16220, \"mans\": 16221, \"\\u0120hind\": 16222, \"\\u0120photography\": 16223, \"\\u00c2\\u00a9\": 16224, \"\\u0120hug\": 16225, \"\\u0120107\": 16226, \"\\u0120Hence\": 16227, \"iots\": 16228, \"udeau\": 16229, \"\\u0120subsidies\": 16230, \"\\u0120routinely\": 16231, \"\\u0120Device\": 16232, \"itic\": 16233, \"\\u0120disgust\": 16234, \"lander\": 16235, \"\\u01201940\": 16236, \"\\u0120assignment\": 16237, \"\\u0120Besides\": 16238, \"wick\": 16239, \"\\u0120Dust\": 16240, \"usc\": 16241, \"structed\": 16242, \"111\": 16243, \"develop\": 16244, \"\\u0120fond\": 16245, \"\\u0120intersection\": 16246, \"\\u0120dignity\": 16247, \"\\u0120commissioner\": 16248, \"Without\": 16249, \"reach\": 16250, \"\\u0120cartoon\": 16251, \"\\u0120scales\": 16252, \"\\u00e3\\u0125\\u0143\": 16253, \"FIG\": 16254, \"\\u0120surveys\": 16255, \"\\u0120Indonesia\": 16256, \"\\u0120artwork\": 16257, \"\\u0120unch\": 16258, \"\\u0120cycling\": 16259, \"unct\": 16260, \"auer\": 16261, \"orate\": 16262, \"\\u0120Obviously\": 16263, \"\\u0120characterized\": 16264, \"feld\": 16265, \"\\u0120affirm\": 16266, \"\\u0120innings\": 16267, \"\\u0120\\u00e9\": 16268, \"\\u0120aliens\": 16269, \"\\u0120cloth\": 16270, \"etooth\": 16271, \"\\u0120Certain\": 16272, \"\\u00c2\\u00a7\": 16273, \"\\u0120digest\": 16274, \"know\": 16275, \"\\u0120XL\": 16276, \"\\u0120predictions\": 16277, \"\\u0120din\": 16278, \"WAR\": 16279, \"\\u0120aftermath\": 16280, \"Example\": 16281, \"\\u0120Success\": 16282, \"\\u0120Thr\": 16283, \"IGN\": 16284, \"\\u0120miner\": 16285, \"Bus\": 16286, \"\\u0120clarity\": 16287, \"heimer\": 16288, \"\\u0120OUT\": 16289, \"\\u0120Send\": 16290, \"\\u0120Circle\": 16291, \"\\u0120Diet\": 16292, \"\\u0120pronounced\": 16293, \"\\u0120creators\": 16294, \"\\u0120earthquake\": 16295, \"attery\": 16296, \"geons\": 16297, \"\\u0120od\": 16298, \"\\u0120laying\": 16299, \"orp\": 16300, \"Ult\": 16301, \"project\": 16302, \"\\u0120undermin\": 16303, \"\\u0120sequel\": 16304, \"Sam\": 16305, \"\\u0120Darkness\": 16306, \"\\u0120reception\": 16307, \"bull\": 16308, \"YS\": 16309, \"\\u0120Vir\": 16310, \"\\u0120sequences\": 16311, \"\\u0120Coin\": 16312, \"\\u0120outfit\": 16313, \"\\u0120Wait\": 16314, \"119\": 16315, \"\\u0120delivers\": 16316, \"......\": 16317, \"\\u0120blown\": 16318, \"\\u0120Esc\": 16319, \"\\u0120Math\": 16320, \"perm\": 16321, \"\\u0120Ul\": 16322, \"\\u0120glim\": 16323, \"\\u0120facial\": 16324, \"\\u0120greenhouse\": 16325, \"\\u0120tokens\": 16326, \"/-\": 16327, \"\\u0120Annual\": 16328, \"\\u0120ONE\": 16329, \"\\u0120teenage\": 16330, \"\\u0120Physical\": 16331, \"\\u0120Lang\": 16332, \"\\u0120Celt\": 16333, \"\\u0120sued\": 16334, \"ividually\": 16335, \"\\u0120patience\": 16336, \"chair\": 16337, \"regular\": 16338, \"\\u0120aug\": 16339, \"inv\": 16340, \"except\": 16341, \"\\u0120Lil\": 16342, \"\\u0120nest\": 16343, \"fd\": 16344, \"sum\": 16345, \"\\u0120Chase\": 16346, \"Russia\": 16347, \"\\u0120Jennifer\": 16348, \"\\u0120offseason\": 16349, \"Overall\": 16350, \"Fore\": 16351, \"\\u0120riot\": 16352, \"Aud\": 16353, \"former\": 16354, \"\\u0120defenders\": 16355, \"\\u0120CT\": 16356, \"iotic\": 16357, \"ribly\": 16358, \"\\u0120automated\": 16359, \"\\u0120penis\": 16360, \"\\u0120insist\": 16361, \"\\u0120diagram\": 16362, \"\\u0120SQL\": 16363, \"\\u0120Garc\": 16364, \"\\u0120witch\": 16365, \"client\": 16366, \"ierra\": 16367, \"ambers\": 16368, \"\\u0120recount\": 16369, \"far\": 16370, \"Very\": 16371, \"osterone\": 16372, \"\\u0120appreciated\": 16373, \"\\u0120Perfect\": 16374, \"Section\": 16375, \"\\u0120doses\": 16376, \"ocaust\": 16377, \"\\u0120costly\": 16378, \"\\u0120grams\": 16379, \"\\u0120Shi\": 16380, \"\\u0120wrestling\": 16381, \"\\u01201971\": 16382, \"\\u0120trophy\": 16383, \"\\u0120nerve\": 16384, \"\\u0120Kaz\": 16385, \"\\u0120Experience\": 16386, \"\\u0120pledged\": 16387, \"\\u0120playback\": 16388, \"\\u0120creativity\": 16389, \"bye\": 16390, \"\\u0120attackers\": 16391, \"\\u0120holders\": 16392, \"\\u0120Coach\": 16393, \"\\u0120PhD\": 16394, \"\\u0120transfers\": 16395, \"\\u0120colored\": 16396, \"\\u0120Hindu\": 16397, \"\\u0120drown\": 16398, \"\\u0120listened\": 16399, \"\\u0120WA\": 16400, \"iasm\": 16401, \"PO\": 16402, \"\\u0120appealing\": 16403, \"\\u0120disclosed\": 16404, \"\\u0120Chicken\": 16405, \"agging\": 16406, \"\\u0120pleaded\": 16407, \"\\u0120navigation\": 16408, \"\\u0120Returns\": 16409, \"\\u0120[[\": 16410, \"ROR\": 16411, \"EA\": 16412, \"\\u0120photographer\": 16413, \"\\u0120Rider\": 16414, \"ippers\": 16415, \"\\u0120slice\": 16416, \"\\u0120erect\": 16417, \"\\u0120hed\": 16418, \"issance\": 16419, \"\\u0120Vikings\": 16420, \"urious\": 16421, \"\\u0120appet\": 16422, \"oubtedly\": 16423, \"Child\": 16424, \"\\u0120authentic\": 16425, \"oos\": 16426, \"\\u0120Making\": 16427, \"\\u0120announcing\": 16428, \"\\u0120bod\": 16429, \"\\u0120meter\": 16430, \"\\u0120Nine\": 16431, \"\\u0120Rogue\": 16432, \"\\u0120workforce\": 16433, \"\\u0120renewed\": 16434, \"\\u0120organisations\": 16435, \"acs\": 16436, \"PLE\": 16437, \"Short\": 16438, \"\\u0120compounds\": 16439, \"\\u0120Visit\": 16440, \"\\u0120envelop\": 16441, \"earth\": 16442, \"\\u0120supportive\": 16443, \"ggle\": 16444, \"\\u0120Brussels\": 16445, \"\\u0120Guild\": 16446, \"Create\": 16447, \"REL\": 16448, \"\\u0120averaged\": 16449, \"\\u01201969\": 16450, \"riages\": 16451, \"\\u0120lengthy\": 16452, \"\\u0120forgot\": 16453, \"Okay\": 16454, \"\\u0120Erd\": 16455, \"\\u0120dealer\": 16456, \"\\u0120recession\": 16457, \"DD\": 16458, \"\\u0120desperately\": 16459, \"\\u0120hunger\": 16460, \"\\u0120sticks\": 16461, \"\\u0120mph\": 16462, \"\\u0120Faith\": 16463, \"\\u0120intentionally\": 16464, \"\\u0120demol\": 16465, \"ueller\": 16466, \"\\u0120Sale\": 16467, \"\\u0120debris\": 16468, \"spring\": 16469, \"\\u0120leap\": 16470, \">>>>\": 16471, \"\\u0120containers\": 16472, \"selling\": 16473, \"ranean\": 16474, \"attering\": 16475, \"\\u0120commented\": 16476, \"\\u0120CM\": 16477, \"onut\": 16478, \"\\u0120woods\": 16479, \"especially\": 16480, \"\\u0120organize\": 16481, \"ivic\": 16482, \"\\u0120Woods\": 16483, \"anga\": 16484, \"squ\": 16485, \"\\u0120maj\": 16486, \"amon\": 16487, \"\\u0120axis\": 16488, \"\\u01201974\": 16489, \"\\u0120Denmark\": 16490, \"\\u0120warrior\": 16491, \"\\u0120Pand\": 16492, \"\\u0120outlined\": 16493, \"\\u0120BO\": 16494, \"insula\": 16495, \"zilla\": 16496, \"ebook\": 16497, \"\\u0120dare\": 16498, \"\\u0120searched\": 16499, \"\\u0120navigate\": 16500, \"Sn\": 16501, \"writing\": 16502, \"\\u0120united\": 16503, \"Japan\": 16504, \"\\u0120Hebrew\": 16505, \"\\u0120flame\": 16506, \"\\u0120relies\": 16507, \"\\u0120catching\": 16508, \"\\u0120Sho\": 16509, \"\\u0120imprisonment\": 16510, \"\\u0120pockets\": 16511, \"\\u0120closure\": 16512, \"\\u0120Fam\": 16513, \"tim\": 16514, \"adequ\": 16515, \"Activity\": 16516, \"\\u0120recruiting\": 16517, \"\\u0120WATCH\": 16518, \"\\u0120Argentina\": 16519, \"dest\": 16520, \"\\u0120apologize\": 16521, \"oro\": 16522, \"\\u0120lacks\": 16523, \"\\u0120tuned\": 16524, \"\\u0120Griffin\": 16525, \"\\u0120infamous\": 16526, \"\\u0120celebrity\": 16527, \"sson\": 16528, \"\\u0120----------------------------------------------------------------\": 16529, \"\\u0120Isis\": 16530, \"\\u0120Display\": 16531, \"\\u0120credibility\": 16532, \"\\u0120economies\": 16533, \"\\u0120headline\": 16534, \"\\u0120Cowboys\": 16535, \"\\u0120indef\": 16536, \"\\u0120lately\": 16537, \"\\u0120incentives\": 16538, \"button\": 16539, \"\\u0120Mob\": 16540, \"Aut\": 16541, \"\\u0120resigned\": 16542, \"\\u0120Om\": 16543, \"camp\": 16544, \"\\u0120profiles\": 16545, \"\\u0120schemes\": 16546, \"olphins\": 16547, \"ayed\": 16548, \"Clinton\": 16549, \"enh\": 16550, \"\\u0120Yahoo\": 16551, \"\\u0120abst\": 16552, \"\\u0120ank\": 16553, \"suits\": 16554, \"\\u0120wished\": 16555, \"\\u0120Marco\": 16556, \"udden\": 16557, \"\\u0120sphere\": 16558, \"\\u0120Bishop\": 16559, \"\\u0120incorporated\": 16560, \"\\u0120Plant\": 16561, \"114\": 16562, \"\\u0120hated\": 16563, \"pic\": 16564, \"\\u0120donate\": 16565, \"\\u0120lined\": 16566, \"\\u0120beans\": 16567, \"\\u0120stealing\": 16568, \"\\u0120costume\": 16569, \"\\u0120sheriff\": 16570, \"\\u0120forty\": 16571, \"\\u0120intact\": 16572, \"\\u0120adapted\": 16573, \"\\u0120travelling\": 16574, \"bart\": 16575, \"\\u0120nicely\": 16576, \"\\u0120dried\": 16577, \"\\u0120scal\": 16578, \"osity\": 16579, \"NOTE\": 16580, \"\\u0120Bh\": 16581, \"\\u0120Broncos\": 16582, \"\\u0120Ign\": 16583, \"\\u0120intimate\": 16584, \"\\u0120chemistry\": 16585, \"\\u0120optimal\": 16586, \"Deb\": 16587, \"\\u0120Generation\": 16588, \"\\u0120],\": 16589, \"ichi\": 16590, \"\\u0120Wii\": 16591, \"\\u0120YOUR\": 16592, \"ventions\": 16593, \"Write\": 16594, \"\\u0120popul\": 16595, \"unning\": 16596, \"\\u0120Wor\": 16597, \"Vol\": 16598, \"\\u0120queen\": 16599, \"heads\": 16600, \"KK\": 16601, \"\\u0120analyze\": 16602, \"opic\": 16603, \"earchers\": 16604, \"\\u0120dot\": 16605, \"legraph\": 16606, \"astically\": 16607, \"\\u0120upgrades\": 16608, \"\\u0120cares\": 16609, \"\\u0120extending\": 16610, \"\\u0120freeze\": 16611, \"\\u0120inability\": 16612, \"\\u0120organs\": 16613, \"\\u0120pretend\": 16614, \"\\u0120outlet\": 16615, \"113\": 16616, \"olan\": 16617, \"\\u0120Mall\": 16618, \"uling\": 16619, \"talk\": 16620, \"\\u0120expressing\": 16621, \"\\u0120Always\": 16622, \"\\u0120Begin\": 16623, \"files\": 16624, \"\\u0120licenses\": 16625, \"%%\": 16626, \"\\u0120Mitt\": 16627, \"\\u0120filters\": 16628, \"\\u0120Milwaukee\": 16629, \"GN\": 16630, \"\\u0120unfold\": 16631, \"Mo\": 16632, \"\\u0120nutrition\": 16633, \"ppo\": 16634, \"Bo\": 16635, \"\\u0120founding\": 16636, \"\\u0120undermine\": 16637, \"\\u0120easiest\": 16638, \"\\u0120Czech\": 16639, \"\\u0120Mack\": 16640, \"\\u0120sexuality\": 16641, \"\\u0120Nixon\": 16642, \"Win\": 16643, \"\\u0120Arn\": 16644, \"\\u0120Kin\": 16645, \"\\u00e3\\u0124\\u00a3\": 16646, \"icer\": 16647, \"\\u0120fortun\": 16648, \"\\u0120surfaces\": 16649, \"aghd\": 16650, \"\\u0120carriers\": 16651, \"\\u0120PART\": 16652, \"\\u0120Tib\": 16653, \"\\u0120interval\": 16654, \"\\u0120frustrating\": 16655, \"\\u0120Ship\": 16656, \"\\u0120Armed\": 16657, \"ffe\": 16658, \"\\u0120boats\": 16659, \"\\u0120Abraham\": 16660, \"inis\": 16661, \"\\u0120suited\": 16662, \"thread\": 16663, \"iov\": 16664, \"abul\": 16665, \"\\u0120Venezuela\": 16666, \"\\u0120tom\": 16667, \"super\": 16668, \"\\u0120castle\": 16669, \"although\": 16670, \"ioxide\": 16671, \"eches\": 16672, \"\\u0120evolutionary\": 16673, \"\\u0120negotiate\": 16674, \"\\u0120confronted\": 16675, \"Remember\": 16676, \"\\u0120170\": 16677, \"Such\": 16678, \"\\u0120911\": 16679, \"mult\": 16680, \"\\u0120Abyss\": 16681, \"urry\": 16682, \"kees\": 16683, \"spec\": 16684, \"\\u0120Barbara\": 16685, \"\\u0120belonging\": 16686, \"\\u0120villain\": 16687, \"istani\": 16688, \"\\u0120accountable\": 16689, \"\\u0120portions\": 16690, \"\\u0120Decl\": 16691, \"Ur\": 16692, \"\\u0120Kate\": 16693, \"gre\": 16694, \"\\u0120magazines\": 16695, \"UCK\": 16696, \"\\u0120regulate\": 16697, \"omon\": 16698, \"\\u0120Almost\": 16699, \"\\u0120overview\": 16700, \"\\u0120scram\": 16701, \"\\u0120loot\": 16702, \"\\u0120Fitz\": 16703, \"\\u0120characteristic\": 16704, \"\\u0120Snake\": 16705, \"say\": 16706, \"\\u0120Rico\": 16707, \"\\u0120trait\": 16708, \"\\u0120Joined\": 16709, \"aucus\": 16710, \"\\u0120adaptation\": 16711, \"\\u0120Airlines\": 16712, \"\\u0120archae\": 16713, \"\\u0120Ide\": 16714, \"\\u0120bikes\": 16715, \"\\u0120literary\": 16716, \"\\u0120influences\": 16717, \"\\u0120Used\": 16718, \"Creat\": 16719, \"\\u0120plea\": 16720, \"\\u0120Defence\": 16721, \"\\u0120Assass\": 16722, \"\\u0120pond\": 16723, \"ULT\": 16724, \")\\\"\": 16725, \"\\u0120evaluated\": 16726, \"\\u0120obtaining\": 16727, \"\\u0120demographic\": 16728, \"\\u0120vigil\": 16729, \"aley\": 16730, \"\\u0120spouse\": 16731, \"\\u0120Seahawks\": 16732, \"respons\": 16733, \"\\u0120Belt\": 16734, \"umatic\": 16735, \"\\u0120rises\": 16736, \"runner\": 16737, \"\\u0120Michelle\": 16738, \"\\u0120potent\": 16739, \"race\": 16740, \"\\u0120PAC\": 16741, \"Find\": 16742, \"olesterol\": 16743, \"ISS\": 16744, \"\\u0120Introduced\": 16745, \"resses\": 16746, \"ignment\": 16747, \"Os\": 16748, \"\\u0120Tu\": 16749, \"\\u0120Dex\": 16750, \"icides\": 16751, \"\\u0120sparked\": 16752, \"\\u0120Laura\": 16753, \"\\u0120Bryant\": 16754, \"\\u0120smiling\": 16755, \"\\u0120Nexus\": 16756, \"\\u0120defendants\": 16757, \"\\u0120Catal\": 16758, \"\\u0120dishes\": 16759, \"shaped\": 16760, \"\\u0120prolong\": 16761, \"mt\": 16762, \"($\": 16763, \"\\u00e3\\u0122\\u0124\": 16764, \"\\u0120calculations\": 16765, \"\\u0120Same\": 16766, \"\\u0120piv\": 16767, \"HH\": 16768, \"\\u0120cancelled\": 16769, \"\\u0120grin\": 16770, \"\\u0120territories\": 16771, \"istically\": 16772, \"Come\": 16773, \"\\u0120Parent\": 16774, \"Project\": 16775, \"\\u0120neglig\": 16776, \"\\u0120Privacy\": 16777, \"\\u0120ammo\": 16778, \"LECT\": 16779, \"olutely\": 16780, \"\\u0120Epic\": 16781, \"\\u0120misunder\": 16782, \"wal\": 16783, \"April\": 16784, \"mos\": 16785, \"pathy\": 16786, \"\\u0120Carson\": 16787, \"\\u0120albums\": 16788, \"\\u0120Easy\": 16789, \"\\u0120pistol\": 16790, \"<<\": 16791, \"\\u0120\\\\(\": 16792, \"target\": 16793, \"help\": 16794, \"\\u0120interpre\": 16795, \"conscious\": 16796, \"\\u0120Housing\": 16797, \"\\u0120Joint\": 16798, \"127\": 16799, \"\\u0120beers\": 16800, \"science\": 16801, \"\\u0120Firefox\": 16802, \"effective\": 16803, \"\\u0120Cabin\": 16804, \"\\u0120Okay\": 16805, \"\\u0120Applic\": 16806, \"\\u0120spacecraft\": 16807, \"\\u0120SR\": 16808, \"vet\": 16809, \"\\u0120Strange\": 16810, \"SB\": 16811, \"\\u0120corps\": 16812, \"iberal\": 16813, \"efficient\": 16814, \"\\u0120prevalence\": 16815, \"\\u0120economists\": 16816, \"118\": 16817, \"Thread\": 16818, \"ordable\": 16819, \"ODE\": 16820, \"\\u0120Cant\": 16821, \"=-=-\": 16822, \"ifiable\": 16823, \"\\u0120Around\": 16824, \"\\u0120pole\": 16825, \"\\u0120willingness\": 16826, \"CLA\": 16827, \"\\u0120Kid\": 16828, \"\\u0120complement\": 16829, \"\\u0120scattered\": 16830, \"\\u0120inmates\": 16831, \"\\u0120bleeding\": 16832, \"every\": 16833, \"\\u0120queue\": 16834, \"\\u0120Train\": 16835, \"\\u0120hij\": 16836, \"\\u0120melee\": 16837, \"pleted\": 16838, \"\\u0120digit\": 16839, \"\\u0120gem\": 16840, \"official\": 16841, \"\\u0120lifting\": 16842, \"\\u00d0\\u00b5\": 16843, \"Requ\": 16844, \"itutes\": 16845, \"\\u0120packaging\": 16846, \"\\u0120Workers\": 16847, \"hran\": 16848, \"\\u0120Lebanon\": 16849, \"olesc\": 16850, \"\\u0120punished\": 16851, \"\\u0120Juan\": 16852, \"\\u0120jam\": 16853, \"\\u0120Document\": 16854, \"\\u0120mapping\": 16855, \"icates\": 16856, \"\\u0120inevitably\": 16857, \"\\u0120vanilla\": 16858, \"\\u0120Ton\": 16859, \"\\u0120watches\": 16860, \"\\u0120leagues\": 16861, \"\\u0120initiated\": 16862, \"degree\": 16863, \"portion\": 16864, \"\\u0120recalls\": 16865, \"\\u0120ruin\": 16866, \"\\u0120melt\": 16867, \"IAN\": 16868, \"\\u0120hem\": 16869, \"Exp\": 16870, \"\\u0120baking\": 16871, \"\\u0120Colomb\": 16872, \"atible\": 16873, \"\\u0120radius\": 16874, \"plug\": 16875, \"\\u0120IF\": 16876, \"etically\": 16877, \"\\u0120fict\": 16878, \"HER\": 16879, \"\\u0120Tap\": 16880, \"atinum\": 16881, \"\\u0120ink\": 16882, \"\\u0120coh\": 16883, \"\\u0120Wizard\": 16884, \"both\": 16885, \"tex\": 16886, \"\\u0120spends\": 16887, \"\\u0120Currently\": 16888, \"\\u0120Pit\": 16889, \"\\u0120neurons\": 16890, \"ignt\": 16891, \"\\u0120rall\": 16892, \"\\u0120buses\": 16893, \"building\": 16894, \"\\u0120adjustments\": 16895, \"\\u0120cried\": 16896, \"iblical\": 16897, \"atted\": 16898, \"\\u0120Zion\": 16899, \"\\u0120Matter\": 16900, \"\\u0120meditation\": 16901, \"\\u0120Dennis\": 16902, \"\\u0120ours\": 16903, \"\\u0120Tab\": 16904, \"\\u0120rankings\": 16905, \"ortal\": 16906, \"\\u0120advers\": 16907, \"\\u0120surrender\": 16908, \"\\u0120Gob\": 16909, \"cium\": 16910, \"omas\": 16911, \"imeter\": 16912, \"\\u0120multiplayer\": 16913, \"\\u0120heroin\": 16914, \"\\u0120optimistic\": 16915, \"\\u0120indicator\": 16916, \"\\u0120Brig\": 16917, \"\\u0120grocery\": 16918, \"\\u0120applicant\": 16919, \"\\u0120Rocket\": 16920, \"vid\": 16921, \"Exception\": 16922, \"pent\": 16923, \"\\u0120organizing\": 16924, \"\\u0120encounters\": 16925, \"\\u0120TOD\": 16926, \"\\u0120jewel\": 16927, \"Save\": 16928, \"\\u0120Christie\": 16929, \"\\u0120heating\": 16930, \"\\u0120lazy\": 16931, \"\\u0120CP\": 16932, \"\\u0120cousin\": 16933, \"Config\": 16934, \"\\u0120regener\": 16935, \"\\u0120nearest\": 16936, \"\\u0120achieving\": 16937, \"ENS\": 16938, \"throw\": 16939, \"\\u0120Richmond\": 16940, \"antle\": 16941, \"2002\": 16942, \"\\u0120anten\": 16943, \"bird\": 16944, \"133\": 16945, \"\\u0120narc\": 16946, \"raint\": 16947, \"unny\": 16948, \"\\u0120Hispanic\": 16949, \"ournaments\": 16950, \"\\u0120prophe\": 16951, \"\\u0120Thailand\": 16952, \"\\u0120Ti\": 16953, \"\\u0120injection\": 16954, \"\\u0120inherit\": 16955, \"ravis\": 16956, \"\\u0120medi\": 16957, \"\\u0120whoever\": 16958, \"\\u0120DEBUG\": 16959, \"GP\": 16960, \"\\u0120Hud\": 16961, \"Card\": 16962, \"prom\": 16963, \"\\u0120por\": 16964, \"\\u0120overhead\": 16965, \"Law\": 16966, \"\\u0120violate\": 16967, \"\\u0120heated\": 16968, \"\\u0120descriptions\": 16969, \"\\u0120achievements\": 16970, \"\\u0120Beer\": 16971, \"\\u0120Quant\": 16972, \"Was\": 16973, \"\\u0120eighth\": 16974, \"\\u0120Iv\": 16975, \"\\u0120specialized\": 16976, \"UPDATE\": 16977, \"\\u0120Delta\": 16978, \"Pop\": 16979, \"Jul\": 16980, \"\\u0120Ask\": 16981, \"ophy\": 16982, \"\\u0120newsletters\": 16983, \"\\u0120Tool\": 16984, \"\\u0120gard\": 16985, \"\\u0120Confeder\": 16986, \"\\u0120GMT\": 16987, \"\\u0120Abbott\": 16988, \"\\u0120immunity\": 16989, \"\\u0120VM\": 16990, \"Islam\": 16991, \"\\u0120implicit\": 16992, \"wd\": 16993, \"\\u01201944\": 16994, \"ravity\": 16995, \"ometric\": 16996, \"\\u0120surviving\": 16997, \"urai\": 16998, \"\\u0120Prison\": 16999, \"\\u0120rust\": 17000, \"\\u0120Sketch\": 17001, \"\\u0120bees\": 17002, \"\\u0120Theory\": 17003, \"\\u0120merit\": 17004, \"Tex\": 17005, \"chat\": 17006, \"\\u0120mim\": 17007, \"\\u0120paste\": 17008, \"\\u0120Koch\": 17009, \"\\u0120ignorance\": 17010, \"\\u0120Shoot\": 17011, \"\\u0120basement\": 17012, \"United\": 17013, \"\\u0120Advis\": 17014, \"height\": 17015, \"\\u0120foster\": 17016, \"\\u0120detain\": 17017, \"information\": 17018, \"\\u0120neural\": 17019, \"';\": 17020, \"\\u0120proves\": 17021, \"allery\": 17022, \"\\u0120invitation\": 17023, \"umbers\": 17024, 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\"\\u0120Marcus\": 17068, \"viol\": 17069, \"\\u0120favorable\": 17070, \"\\u0120stub\": 17071, \"adin\": 17072, \"\\u0120Hob\": 17073, \"\\u0120faithful\": 17074, \"\\u0120electronics\": 17075, \"\\u0120vacuum\": 17076, \"wait\": 17077, \"backed\": 17078, \"economic\": 17079, \"dist\": 17080, \"\\u0120tenure\": 17081, \"\\u0120sincere\": 17082, \"\\u0120Together\": 17083, \"\\u0120Wave\": 17084, \"\\u0120progression\": 17085, \"\\u0120denying\": 17086, \"\\u0120distress\": 17087, \"braska\": 17088, \"third\": 17089, \"\\u0120mixing\": 17090, \"\\u0120colonial\": 17091, \"\\u0120privately\": 17092, \"\\u0120unrest\": 17093, \"aternity\": 17094, \"\\u0120premises\": 17095, \"anti\": 17096, \"gregation\": 17097, \"\\u0120licence\": 17098, \"\\u0120Hind\": 17099, \"\\u0120Samuel\": 17100, \"\\u0120convincing\": 17101, \"\\u0120Ace\": 17102, \"\\u0120Rust\": 17103, \"\\u0120Netanyahu\": 17104, \"\\u0120handles\": 17105, \"\\u0120Patch\": 17106, \"oriented\": 17107, \"aho\": 17108, 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\"\\u0120parliamentary\": 17521, \"\\u0120snake\": 17522, \"\\u0120servants\": 17523, \"\\u0120Trudeau\": 17524, \"\\u0120Grim\": 17525, \"\\u0120Arabic\": 17526, \"\\u0120SCP\": 17527, \"\\u0120Boys\": 17528, \"station\": 17529, \"\\u0120prospective\": 17530, \"orde\": 17531, \"initialized\": 17532, \"\\u0120bored\": 17533, \"ABLE\": 17534, \"\\u0120accessed\": 17535, \"\\u0120taxi\": 17536, \"\\u0120Shell\": 17537, \"aiden\": 17538, \"ursed\": 17539, \"inates\": 17540, \"\\u0120Insurance\": 17541, \"\\u0120Pete\": 17542, \"September\": 17543, \"650\": 17544, \"\\u0120adventures\": 17545, \"\\u0120Cover\": 17546, \"\\u0120tribute\": 17547, \"\\u0120sketch\": 17548, \"\\u0120empower\": 17549, \"\\u0120\\u00d8\": 17550, \"\\u0120Glenn\": 17551, \"\\u0120Daw\": 17552, \"=\\\\\\\"\": 17553, \"\\u0120Politics\": 17554, \"\\u0120guides\": 17555, \"\\u0120dioxide\": 17556, \"\\u0120Gore\": 17557, \"\\u0120Bright\": 17558, \"\\u0120Sierra\": 17559, \"\\u0120valued\": 17560, \"cond\": 17561, 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\"\\u0120publishers\": 17604, \"\\u0120nort\": 17605, \"\\u0120git\": 17606, \"\\u0120flies\": 17607, \"\\u0120Emily\": 17608, \"\\u0120flowing\": 17609, \"\\u0120Alien\": 17610, \"\\u0120Strateg\": 17611, \"\\u0120hardest\": 17612, \"\\u0120modification\": 17613, \"API\": 17614, \"\\u0120MY\": 17615, \"\\u0120crashes\": 17616, \"stairs\": 17617, \"number\": 17618, \"\\u0120urging\": 17619, \"channel\": 17620, \"\\u0120Falcon\": 17621, \"\\u0120inhabitants\": 17622, \"\\u0120terrifying\": 17623, \"\\u0120utilize\": 17624, \"\\u0120banner\": 17625, \"\\u0120cigarettes\": 17626, \"\\u0120senses\": 17627, \"\\u0120Holmes\": 17628, \"\\u0120practition\": 17629, \"\\u0120Phillips\": 17630, \"otto\": 17631, \"\\u0120compile\": 17632, \"Model\": 17633, \"\\u0120Ko\": 17634, \"\\u0120[]\": 17635, \"Americans\": 17636, \"\\u0120Terms\": 17637, \"\\u0120medications\": 17638, \"\\u0120Ana\": 17639, \"\\u0120fundamentally\": 17640, \"\\u0120Notice\": 17641, \"\\u0120weaker\": 17642, \"\\u01200000\": 17643, \"\\u0120garlic\": 17644, \"\\u0120outbreak\": 17645, \"\\u0120economist\": 17646, \"\\u0120Birth\": 17647, \"\\u0120obstacles\": 17648, \"arcer\": 17649, \"\\u0120Orthodox\": 17650, \"\\u0120placebo\": 17651, \"\\u0120Crew\": 17652, \"aspberry\": 17653, \"\\u0120Angels\": 17654, \"\\u0120discharge\": 17655, \"\\u0120destructive\": 17656, \"117\": 17657, \"\\u0120Rising\": 17658, \"\\u0120dairy\": 17659, \"late\": 17660, \"\\u0120collision\": 17661, \"\\u0120Tigers\": 17662, \"eanor\": 17663, \"ocumented\": 17664, \"\\u0120Invalid\": 17665, \"\\u0120dont\": 17666, \"\\u0120Liter\": 17667, \"\\u0120Va\": 17668, \"\\u0120hydrogen\": 17669, \"\\u0120variants\": 17670, \"\\u0120Browns\": 17671, \"\\u01201965\": 17672, \"\\u0120indigenous\": 17673, \"\\u0120trades\": 17674, \"\\u0120remainder\": 17675, \"\\u0120swept\": 17676, \"\\u0120Impact\": 17677, \"\\u0120redist\": 17678, \"\\u0120unint\": 17679, \"graduate\": 17680, \"\\u00e3\\u0125\\u0137\": 17681, \"\\u0120WILL\": 17682, \"\\u00e3\\u0123\\u00ae\\u00e7\": 17683, \"\\u0120Critical\": 17684, \"\\u0120fisher\": 17685, \"\\u0120vicious\": 17686, \"\\u0120reversed\": 17687, \"Year\": 17688, \"\\u0120Sox\": 17689, \"\\u0120shootings\": 17690, \"\\u0120filming\": 17691, \"\\u0120touchdowns\": 17692, \"aires\": 17693, \"mel\": 17694, \"\\u0120grandfather\": 17695, \"\\u0120affection\": 17696, \"ingle\": 17697, \"\\u0120overly\": 17698, \"Additional\": 17699, \"\\u0120supreme\": 17700, \"\\u0120Grad\": 17701, \"\\u0120sporting\": 17702, \"\\u0120mercy\": 17703, \"\\u0120Brooks\": 17704, \"ounty\": 17705, \"\\u0120performs\": 17706, \"\\u0120tightly\": 17707, \"\\u0120demons\": 17708, \"\\u0120killings\": 17709, \"\\u0120faction\": 17710, \"\\u0120Nova\": 17711, \"auts\": 17712, \"\\u0120undoubtedly\": 17713, \"arin\": 17714, \"\\u0120underway\": 17715, \"rak\": 17716, \"\\u0120liv\": 17717, \"\\u0120Region\": 17718, \"\\u0120briefing\": 17719, \"sers\": 17720, \"cloud\": 17721, 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17763, \"\\u0120compatibility\": 17764, \"asis\": 17765, \"\\u0120sadd\": 17766, \"\\u0120instructed\": 17767, \"\\u0120Mueller\": 17768, \"\\u0120lethal\": 17769, \"\\u0120hormone\": 17770, \"\\u0120orche\": 17771, \"else\": 17772, \"\\u0120skelet\": 17773, \"\\u0120entertaining\": 17774, \"\\u0120minimize\": 17775, \"again\": 17776, \"\\u0120undergo\": 17777, \"\\u0120constraints\": 17778, \"\\u0120cigarette\": 17779, \"\\u0120Islamist\": 17780, \"\\u0120travels\": 17781, \"\\u0120Panthers\": 17782, \"lings\": 17783, \"Care\": 17784, \"\\u0120lawsuits\": 17785, \"uras\": 17786, \"\\u0120cryst\": 17787, \"\\u0120lowered\": 17788, \"\\u0120aerial\": 17789, \"\\u0120combinations\": 17790, \"\\u0120haun\": 17791, \"\\u0120cha\": 17792, \"\\u0120vine\": 17793, \"\\u0120quantities\": 17794, \"\\u0120linking\": 17795, \"bank\": 17796, \"\\u0120soy\": 17797, \"Bill\": 17798, \"\\u0120Angela\": 17799, \"\\u0120recipient\": 17800, \"\\u0120Protest\": 17801, \"\\u0120socket\": 17802, \"\\u0120solidarity\": 17803, \"\\u0120\\u00e2\\u0128\": 17804, \"mill\": 17805, \"\\u0120varies\": 17806, \"\\u0120Pakistani\": 17807, \"Dragon\": 17808, \"\\u0120une\": 17809, \"\\u0120horizon\": 17810, \"\\u00c2\\u0142\\u00c2\\u0142\\u00c2\\u0142\\u00c2\\u0142\\u00c2\\u0142\\u00c2\\u0142\\u00c2\\u0142\\u00c2\\u0142\": 17811, \"\\u0120provinces\": 17812, \"\\u0120frankly\": 17813, \"\\u0120enacted\": 17814, \"notes\": 17815, \"['\": 17816, \"\\u0120192\": 17817, \"ocracy\": 17818, \"\\u0120endorsement\": 17819, \"\\u0120overtime\": 17820, \"True\": 17821, \"Lab\": 17822, \"licted\": 17823, \"\\u0120DNC\": 17824, \"\\u0120beats\": 17825, \"\\u0120Jamie\": 17826, \"152\": 17827, \"\\u0120INT\": 17828, \"Contact\": 17829, \"\\u0120accounted\": 17830, \"hash\": 17831, \"\\u0120Packers\": 17832, \"pires\": 17833, \"\\u0120lesbian\": 17834, \"\\u0120amendments\": 17835, \"\\u0120hopeful\": 17836, \"\\u0120Finland\": 17837, \"\\u0120spotlight\": 17838, \"\\u0120configured\": 17839, \"\\u0120troubled\": 17840, \"\\u0120gaze\": 17841, \"\\u0120Calgary\": 17842, \"\\u0120reliability\": 17843, \"\\u0120insurg\": 17844, \"swer\": 17845, \"buy\": 17846, \"\\u0120Skin\": 17847, \"\\u0120pixels\": 17848, \"\\u0120handgun\": 17849, \"\\u0120paras\": 17850, \"\\u0120categor\": 17851, \"\\u0120EL\": 17852, \"\\u0120Rex\": 17853, \"Indeed\": 17854, \"\\u0120kinda\": 17855, \"\\u0120conjunction\": 17856, \"\\u0120Bryan\": 17857, \"\\u0120Manufact\": 17858, \"yang\": 17859, \"Plus\": 17860, \"SQL\": 17861, \"ishment\": 17862, \"\\u0120dominate\": 17863, \"\\u0120nail\": 17864, \"\\u0120oath\": 17865, \"\\u0120erupt\": 17866, \"\\u0120Fine\": 17867, \"itbart\": 17868, \"\\u0120Chip\": 17869, \"\\u0120Abd\": 17870, \"\\u0120Nam\": 17871, \"\\u0120buyer\": 17872, \"\\u0120dissent\": 17873, \"Leaks\": 17874, \"Contin\": 17875, \"\\u0120rider\": 17876, \"\\u0120Someone\": 17877, \"\\u0120illusion\": 17878, \"cin\": 17879, \"\\u0120Boeing\": 17880, \"\\u0120inadequ\": 17881, \"ovation\": 17882, \"iants\": 17883, \"\\u0120rebuild\": 17884, \"450\": 17885, \"\\u0120Destiny\": 17886, \"SW\": 17887, \"\\u0120Till\": 17888, \"Hit\": 17889, \"iaz\": 17890, \"\\u0120Bangl\": 17891, \"achers\": 17892, \"\\u0120Reform\": 17893, \"\\u0120segments\": 17894, \"\\u0120systematic\": 17895, \"dc\": 17896, \"\\u0120Conservatives\": 17897, \"\\u0120portal\": 17898, \"hor\": 17899, \"\\u0120Dragonbound\": 17900, \"\\u0120dragged\": 17901, \"omo\": 17902, \"\\u0120thee\": 17903, \"advert\": 17904, \"\\u0120Reports\": 17905, \"\\u0120Et\": 17906, \"\\u0120barrels\": 17907, \"August\": 17908, \"\\u0120comparisons\": 17909, \"\\u0120hex\": 17910, \"\\u0120anthrop\": 17911, \"\\\"[\": 17912, \"borough\": 17913, \"abi\": 17914, \"\\u0120pictured\": 17915, \"playing\": 17916, \"\\u0120Address\": 17917, \"\\u0120Mirror\": 17918, \"Smith\": 17919, \"\\u0120tires\": 17920, \"\\u0120NPR\": 17921, \"AAAA\": 17922, \"\\u0120classification\": 17923, \"\\u0120Than\": 17924, \"\\u0120Harm\": 17925, \"\\u0120RA\": 17926, \"\\u0120rejection\": 17927, \"mination\": 17928, \"\\u0120ranged\": 17929, \"\\u0120Falls\": 17930, \"DI\": 17931, \"Host\": 17932, \"\\u00e3\\u0124\\u00b4\": 17933, \"\\u0120Example\": 17934, \"listed\": 17935, \"thirds\": 17936, \"\\u0120safegu\": 17937, \"brand\": 17938, \"\\u0120probable\": 17939, \"Canada\": 17940, \"ITION\": 17941, \"\\u0120Qaeda\": 17942, \"\\u0120chick\": 17943, \"\\u0120imports\": 17944, \"hit\": 17945, \"loc\": 17946, \"WW\": 17947, \"\\u0120blew\": 17948, \"\\u0120anytime\": 17949, \"\\u0120wholes\": 17950, \"iked\": 17951, \"\\u0120calculation\": 17952, \"create\": 17953, \"\\u0120Ori\": 17954, \"\\u0120upgraded\": 17955, \"\\u0120appar\": 17956, \"utory\": 17957, \"\\u0120Mol\": 17958, \"Brit\": 17959, \"\\u0120Jong\": 17960, \"INAL\": 17961, \"\\u0120Starting\": 17962, \"\\u0120dice\": 17963, \"urtle\": 17964, \"\\u0120relying\": 17965, \"closure\": 17966, \"\\u0120profitable\": 17967, \"\\u0120slaughter\": 17968, \"\\u0120Manual\": 17969, \"caster\": 17970, \"\\u0120\\\"$\": 17971, \"\\u0120feather\": 17972, \"\\u0120Simply\": 17973, \"ieves\": 17974, \"\\u0120deterior\": 17975, \"\\u0120PCI\": 17976, \"\\u0120stamp\": 17977, \"\\u0120flaws\": 17978, \"\\u0120shade\": 17979, \"hammer\": 17980, \"\\u0120passport\": 17981, \"\\u0120conting\": 17982, \"amel\": 17983, \"\\u0120observers\": 17984, \"\\u0120neglect\": 17985, \"\\u0120RB\": 17986, \"\\u0120Brotherhood\": 17987, \"\\u0120skeptical\": 17988, \"family\": 17989, \"usk\": 17990, \"\\u0120emotionally\": 17991, \"\\u00e2\\u013b\": 17992, \"\\u0120Beta\": 17993, \"asonable\": 17994, \"idity\": 17995, \"\\u0120Mul\": 17996, \"\\u0120kicking\": 17997, \"\\u0120Carm\": 17998, \"ollah\": 17999, \"VERTIS\": 18000, \"\\u0120Athen\": 18001, \"\\u0120ladder\": 18002, \"\\u0120Bullet\": 18003, \"\\u00e5\\u00a3\": 18004, \"0001\": 18005, \"\\u0120Wildlife\": 18006, \"\\u0120Mask\": 18007, \"\\u0120Nan\": 18008, \"Rev\": 18009, \"\\u0120unacceptable\": 18010, \"legal\": 18011, \"\\u0120crowded\": 18012, \"agi\": 18013, \"\\u0120Cox\": 18014, \"je\": 18015, \"\\u0120morality\": 18016, \"\\u0120fuels\": 18017, \"\\u0120cables\": 18018, \"\\u0120mankind\": 18019, \"\\u0120Caribbean\": 18020, \"\\u0120anchor\": 18021, \"\\u0120byte\": 18022, \"\\u0120Often\": 18023, \"\\u0120Oz\": 18024, \"\\u0120crafted\": 18025, \"\\u0120historian\": 18026, \"\\u0120Wu\": 18027, \"\\u0120towers\": 18028, \"\\u0120Citizens\": 18029, \"\\u0120helm\": 18030, \"\\u0120credentials\": 18031, \"\\u0120singular\": 18032, \"\\u0120Jesse\": 18033, \"\\u0120tackles\": 18034, \"\\u0120contempt\": 18035, \"\\u0120afore\": 18036, \"\\u0120Shadows\": 18037, \"\\u0120nil\": 18038, \"\\u0120urgent\": 18039, \"apple\": 18040, \"blood\": 18041, \"\\u0120von\": 18042, \"\\u0120offline\": 18043, \"\\u0120breathe\": 18044, \"\\u0120jumps\": 18045, \"\\u0120irrelevant\": 18046, \"oxic\": 18047, \"omal\": 18048, \"important\": 18049, \"Jim\": 18050, \"\\u0120gloves\": 18051, \"arming\": 18052, \"depth\": 18053, \"\\u0120talents\": 18054, \"ookie\": 18055, \"\\u0120SB\": 18056, \"\\u0120palm\": 18057, \"uffs\": 18058, \"esta\": 18059, \"IGH\": 18060, \"\\u0120canon\": 18061, \"\\u0120Verizon\": 18062, \"\\u0120Ple\": 18063, \"\\u0120coupled\": 18064, \"velt\": 18065, \"\\u0120fundraising\": 18066, \"\\u0120Getting\": 18067, \"\\u0120DLC\": 18068, \"\\u0120mathematical\": 18069, \"\\u0120HS\": 18070, \"\\u0120Cardinals\": 18071, \"telling\": 18072, \"\\u0120sponsors\": 18073, \"\\u0120\\u00cf\": 18074, \"\\u0120Bulls\": 18075, \"option\": 18076, \"\\u0120propose\": 18077, \"\\u0120memorable\": 18078, \"\\u0120embraced\": 18079, \"\\u0120declining\": 18080, \"Health\": 18081, \"eda\": 18082, \"\\u0120};\": 18083, \"\\u0120spam\": 18084, \"mile\": 18085, \"\\u0120pitcher\": 18086, \"\\u0120Eight\": 18087, \"\\u0120caring\": 18088, \"utic\": 18089, \"role\": 18090, \"\\u0120airline\": 18091, \"ernandez\": 18092, \"\\u0120Athlet\": 18093, \"\\u0120certification\": 18094, \"uxe\": 18095, \"riger\": 18096, \"\\u0120empir\": 18097, \"\\u0120sensation\": 18098, \"\\u0120dism\": 18099, \"\\u0120bolt\": 18100, \"\\u0120evolve\": 18101, \"House\": 18102, \"\\u0120consultation\": 18103, \"\\u0120Duty\": 18104, \"\\u0120touches\": 18105, \"\\u0120Nathan\": 18106, \"\\u0120faint\": 18107, \"had\": 18108, \"\\\"(\": 18109, \"\\u0120Consumer\": 18110, \"\\u0120Extreme\": 18111, \"\\u0120127\": 18112, \"\\u0120Herm\": 18113, \"\\u0120Sacrament\": 18114, \"izoph\": 18115, \"\\u0120anxious\": 18116, \"ulously\": 18117, \"\\u0120socially\": 18118, \"\\u0120UTC\": 18119, \"\\u0120solving\": 18120, \"\\u0120Letter\": 18121, \"History\": 18122, \"educ\": 18123, \"Price\": 18124, \"));\": 18125, \"\\u0120reload\": 18126, \"amic\": 18127, \"\\u0120pork\": 18128, \"\\u0120discourse\": 18129, \"\\u0120tournaments\": 18130, \"airo\": 18131, \"\\u0120Kur\": 18132, \"\\u0120Costa\": 18133, \"\\u0120violating\": 18134, \"\\u0120interfere\": 18135, \"\\u0120recreational\": 18136, \"uffle\": 18137, \"\\u0120speeches\": 18138, \"\\u0120needing\": 18139, \"\\u0120remembers\": 18140, \"\\u0120credited\": 18141, \"nia\": 18142, \"focused\": 18143, \"amera\": 18144, \"\\u0120bru\": 18145, \"umbs\": 18146, \"\\u0120Cuban\": 18147, \"\\u0120preceding\": 18148, \"\\u0120nonsense\": 18149, \"acial\": 18150, \"\\u0120smartphones\": 18151, \"\\u0120Stories\": 18152, \"Sports\": 18153, \"\\u0120Emergency\": 18154, \"ouncing\": 18155, \"efined\": 18156, \"\\u0120ber\": 18157, \"\\u0120consulting\": 18158, \"\\u0120masters\": 18159, \"heastern\": 18160, \".\\\"[\": 18161, \"\\u0120Running\": 18162, \"\\u0120suscept\": 18163, \"\\u0120Feng\": 18164, \"America\": 18165, \"prises\": 18166, \"stitial\": 18167, \"\\u0120Weekly\": 18168, \"\\u0120Greater\": 18169, \"modules\": 18170, \"ifter\": 18171, \"Graphics\": 18172, \"uler\": 18173, \"\\u0120wholly\": 18174, \"\\u0120suppress\": 18175, \"\\u0120concealed\": 18176, \"\\u0120happily\": 18177, \"\\u0120accepts\": 18178, \"\\u0120Enjoy\": 18179, \"\\u0120rivers\": 18180, \"\\u0120Except\": 18181, \"225\": 18182, \"\\u0120NHS\": 18183, \"\\u0120McConnell\": 18184, \"\\u0120pussy\": 18185, \"ferred\": 18186, \"utable\": 18187, \"\\u0120attain\": 18188, \"\\u0120>=\": 18189, \"\\u0120deposits\": 18190, \"rophic\": 18191, \"\\u0120notorious\": 18192, \"\\u0120Shaw\": 18193, \"ilitation\": 18194, \"\\u0120epidemic\": 18195, \"allic\": 18196, \"\\u0120smallest\": 18197, \"ovich\": 18198, \"\\u0120accessories\": 18199, \"perties\": 18200, \"\\u0120surplus\": 18201, \"\\u0120Mech\": 18202, \"\\u0120ambig\": 18203, \"\\u0120Immigration\": 18204, \"\\u0120chim\": 18205, \"eval\": 18206, \"\\u0120practicing\": 18207, \"\\u0120Mystery\": 18208, \"\\u0120domains\": 18209, \"\\u0120Silicon\": 18210, \"apps\": 18211, \"\\u0120kilometers\": 18212, \"ea\": 18213, \"\\u0120Smash\": 18214, \"\\u0120warranty\": 18215, \"\\u0120nost\": 18216, \"sil\": 18217, \"rev\": 18218, \"Jon\": 18219, \"\\u0120Dublin\": 18220, \"\\u0120tastes\": 18221, \"\\u0120bout\": 18222, \"great\": 18223, \"error\": 18224, \"\\u0120switches\": 18225, \"\\u0120Bapt\": 18226, \"DO\": 18227, \"oki\": 18228, \"\\u0120sourced\": 18229, \"produ\": 18230, \"\\u0120attachment\": 18231, \"\\u0120Issue\": 18232, \"\\u0120Question\": 18233, \"Join\": 18234, \"\\u0120fitted\": 18235, \"\\u0120unlawful\": 18236, \"^^\": 18237, \"erek\": 18238, \"\\u0120authentication\": 18239, \"\\u0120stole\": 18240, \"\\u0120accountability\": 18241, \"label\": 18242, \"Search\": 18243, \"\\u0120albeit\": 18244, \"atican\": 18245, \"funded\": 18246, \"\\u0120Adding\": 18247, \"\\u0120IQ\": 18248, \"\\u0120submar\": 18249, \"lit\": 18250, \"aque\": 18251, \"\\u0120Learning\": 18252, \"\\u0120integer\": 18253, \"Master\": 18254, \"\\u0120Chrom\": 18255, \"\\u0120premier\": 18256, \"Op\": 18257, \"\\u0120Liu\": 18258, \"\\u0120blessed\": 18259, \"\\u0120Globe\": 18260, \"\\u0120Response\": 18261, \"\\u0120legitim\": 18262, \"\\u0120Merkel\": 18263, \"\\u0120disposal\": 18264, \"\\u00c2\\u00b4\": 18265, \"\\u0120gauge\": 18266, \"peat\": 18267, \"\\u0120induced\": 18268, \"\\u0120questionable\": 18269, \"arthy\": 18270, \"\\u0120Vit\": 18271, \"\\u0120Feed\": 18272, \"Until\": 18273, \"Ut\": 18274, \"worthy\": 18275, \"RY\": 18276, \"\\u0120Herald\": 18277, \"\\u0120Hammer\": 18278, \"\\u0120medal\": 18279, \"\\u0120Rivers\": 18280, \"\\u0120Hack\": 18281, \"\\u0120clarify\": 18282, \"\\u0120tracked\": 18283, \"\\u0120autonomous\": 18284, \"\\u0120tenant\": 18285, \"\\u0120Qatar\": 18286, \"erie\": 18287, \"\\u0120grim\": 18288, \"\\u0120Monitor\": 18289, \"\\u0120resistant\": 18290, \"\\u0120Spec\": 18291, \"\\u0120Wells\": 18292, \"NAS\": 18293, \"148\": 18294, \"\\u0120miners\": 18295, \"iotics\": 18296, \"\\u0120misses\": 18297, \"116\": 18298, \"gian\": 18299, \"git\": 18300, \"\\u0120Eyes\": 18301, \"pres\": 18302, \"\\u0120graduated\": 18303, \"\\u0120angel\": 18304, \"\\u0120synchron\": 18305, \"\\u0120efficiently\": 18306, \"\\u0120transmitted\": 18307, \"Harry\": 18308, \"\\u0120globally\": 18309, \"ENCE\": 18310, \"\\u0120Montana\": 18311, \"raged\": 18312, \"\\u0120Prevention\": 18313, \"\\u0120piss\": 18314, \"\\u0120Ll\": 18315, \"\\u0120shelf\": 18316, \"\\u0120BJP\": 18317, \"\\u0120Testament\": 18318, \"\\u0120Late\": 18319, \"iker\": 18320, \"\\u0120Happ\": 18321, \"\\u0120Julian\": 18322, \"hall\": 18323, \"\\u0120spont\": 18324, \"\\u0120shutdown\": 18325, \"\\u0120inconsistent\": 18326, \"\\u0120subscribers\": 18327, \"\\u0120skeleton\": 18328, \"\\u0120Nebraska\": 18329, \"\\u0120inspire\": 18330, \"\\u0120Void\": 18331, \"Feed\": 18332, \"\\u0120angles\": 18333, \"\\u0120Springs\": 18334, \"\\u0120benchmark\": 18335, \"\\u0120vaccines\": 18336, \"izophren\": 18337, \"sexual\": 18338, \"uffed\": 18339, \"\\u0120shine\": 18340, \"\\u0120Kath\": 18341, \"\\u0120gesture\": 18342, \"inea\": 18343, \"\\u0120rip\": 18344, \"\\u0120oppression\": 18345, \"\\u0120conscience\": 18346, \"bt\": 18347, \"\\u0120Lum\": 18348, \"\\u0120incidence\": 18349, \"\\u0120Fa\": 18350, \"wr\": 18351, \"\\u0120mineral\": 18352, \"\\u0120Spurs\": 18353, \"alky\": 18354, \"\\u0120thunder\": 18355, \"\\u0120opio\": 18356, \"Being\": 18357, \"\\u0120Palm\": 18358, \"\\u0120wasted\": 18359, \"\\u0120lb\": 18360, \"iaries\": 18361, \"\\u0120Initiative\": 18362, \"\\u0120curric\": 18363, \"\\u0120marker\": 18364, \"\\u0120McL\": 18365, \"\\u0120extensions\": 18366, \"\\u0120Pv\": 18367, \"\\u0120Arms\": 18368, \"\\u0120offerings\": 18369, \"\\u0120defenses\": 18370, \"\\u0120vendor\": 18371, \"\\u0120contradict\": 18372, \"\\u0120Colin\": 18373, \"\\u0120reddit\": 18374, \"\\u0120peripher\": 18375, \"122\": 18376, \"\\u0120sins\": 18377, \"Edit\": 18378, \"ICT\": 18379, \"Soft\": 18380, \"\\u0120Shah\": 18381, \"\\u0120administrator\": 18382, \"\\u0120Trip\": 18383, \"\\u0120pornography\": 18384, \"\\u0120tuition\": 18385, \"inence\": 18386, \"\\u0120Progress\": 18387, \"\\u0120catalog\": 18388, \"\\u0120suite\": 18389, \"\\u0120hike\": 18390, \"\\u0120reproductive\": 18391, \"engine\": 18392, \"\\u0120drought\": 18393, \"\\u0120Noah\": 18394, \"\\u0120230\": 18395, \"\\u0120dude\": 18396, \"\\u0120relaxed\": 18397, \"\\u0120partition\": 18398, \"\\u0120participant\": 18399, \"\\u0120telesc\": 18400, \"\\u0120feas\": 18401, \"\\u0120FF\": 18402, \"owner\": 18403, \"\\u0120sweeping\": 18404, \"\\u0120lenses\": 18405, \"\\u0120matchup\": 18406, \"\\u0120Repl\": 18407, \"ournals\": 18408, \"\\u0120credible\": 18409, \"\\u0120grandmother\": 18410, \"\\u0120thermal\": 18411, \"\\u0120subscribing\": 18412, \"\\u0120identities\": 18413, \"colm\": 18414, \"UCT\": 18415, \"\\u0120reluctant\": 18416, \"users\": 18417, \"\\u0120Cort\": 18418, \"\\u0120assisted\": 18419, \"OSS\": 18420, \"ATIONS\": 18421, \"ISH\": 18422, \"\\u0120pharmaceutical\": 18423, \"icable\": 18424, \"adian\": 18425, \"\\u0120Sonic\": 18426, \"\\u0120Fury\": 18427, \"\\u0120Mong\": 18428, \"AH\": 18429, \"\\u0120Psychology\": 18430, \"\\u0120phosph\": 18431, \"\\u0120treats\": 18432, \"\\u0143\\u0136\": 18433, \"\\u0120steadily\": 18434, \"\\u0120Hello\": 18435, \"\\u0120relates\": 18436, \"\\u0120clue\": 18437, \"Expl\": 18438, \"auth\": 18439, \"\\u0120revision\": 18440, \"\\u0120eld\": 18441, \"osion\": 18442, \"\\u0120bron\": 18443, \"144\": 18444, \"rikes\": 18445, \"\\u0120mines\": 18446, \"\\u0120blanket\": 18447, \"\\u0120Fail\": 18448, \"eled\": 18449, \"\\u0120Imagine\": 18450, \"\\u0120Planned\": 18451, \"aic\": 18452, \"Request\": 18453, \"Mad\": 18454, \"\\u0120Horse\": 18455, \"\\u0120Eagle\": 18456, \"\\u0120capac\": 18457, \"157\": 18458, \"\\u0120ling\": 18459, \"\\u0120Nice\": 18460, \"\\u0120Parenthood\": 18461, \"minster\": 18462, \"ogs\": 18463, \"ensitive\": 18464, \"Nothing\": 18465, \"\\u0120carn\": 18466, \"Fin\": 18467, \"\\u0120PE\": 18468, \"\\u0120rifles\": 18469, \"\\u0120LP\": 18470, \"Sand\": 18471, \"\\u0120guiActive\": 18472, \"\\u0120tourist\": 18473, \"CNN\": 18474, \"\\u0120unveiled\": 18475, \"\\u0120predecessor\": 18476, \"}{\": 18477, \"uber\": 18478, \"\\u0120offshore\": 18479, \"\\u0120optical\": 18480, \"\\u0120Rot\": 18481, \"\\u0120Pearl\": 18482, \"eton\": 18483, \"\\u0120stared\": 18484, \"\\u0120farther\": 18485, \"atility\": 18486, \"contin\": 18487, \"\\u0120Gy\": 18488, \"\\u0120Foster\": 18489, \"\\u0120Coc\": 18490, \"rients\": 18491, \"\\u0120designing\": 18492, \"\\u0120Economy\": 18493, \"ONG\": 18494, \"Women\": 18495, \"\\u0120Nancy\": 18496, \"erver\": 18497, \"\\u0120mascul\": 18498, \"\\u0120casualties\": 18499, \"\\u0120225\": 18500, \"\\u0120Sullivan\": 18501, \"\\u0120Choice\": 18502, \"\\u0120aster\": 18503, \"ws\": 18504, \"\\u0120hotels\": 18505, \"\\u0120considerations\": 18506, \"\\u0120couch\": 18507, \"\\u0120Strip\": 18508, \"\\u0120Gn\": 18509, \"\\u0120manipulate\": 18510, \"lied\": 18511, \"\\u0120synthetic\": 18512, \"\\u0120assaulted\": 18513, \"\\u0120offenses\": 18514, \"\\u0120Drake\": 18515, \"\\u0120impe\": 18516, \"October\": 18517, \"\\u0120Heritage\": 18518, \"hl\": 18519, \"\\u0120Blair\": 18520, \"Unlike\": 18521, \"\\u0120grief\": 18522, \"\\u0120450\": 18523, \"\\u0120opted\": 18524, \"\\u0120resignation\": 18525, \"ilo\": 18526, \"\\u0120verse\": 18527, \"\\u0120Tomb\": 18528, \"\\u0120upt\": 18529, \"\\u0120aired\": 18530, \"\\u0120Hook\": 18531, \"\\u0120MLB\": 18532, \"\\u0120assumes\": 18533, \"outed\": 18534, \"\\u0120Vers\": 18535, \"\\u0120inferior\": 18536, \"\\u0120bundle\": 18537, \"\\u0120DNS\": 18538, \"ographer\": 18539, \"\\u0120multip\": 18540, \"\\u0120Souls\": 18541, \"\\u0120illustrated\": 18542, \"\\u0120tactic\": 18543, \"\\u0120dressing\": 18544, \"\\u0120duo\": 18545, \"Conf\": 18546, \"\\u0120relent\": 18547, \"\\u0120cant\": 18548, \"\\u0120scarce\": 18549, \"\\u0120candy\": 18550, \"\\u0120CF\": 18551, \"\\u0120affiliated\": 18552, \"\\u0120sprint\": 18553, \"ylan\": 18554, \"\\u0120Garcia\": 18555, \"\\u0120junk\": 18556, \"Print\": 18557, \"exec\": 18558, \"Crit\": 18559, \"\\u0120portrait\": 18560, \"iries\": 18561, \"\\u0120OFF\": 18562, \"\\u0120disputes\": 18563, \"WR\": 18564, \"Love\": 18565, \"\\u00e3\\u0123\\u0126\": 18566, \"\\u0120Reyn\": 18567, \"\\u0120hipp\": 18568, \"opath\": 18569, \"\\u0120floors\": 18570, \"\\u0120Feel\": 18571, \"\\u0120worries\": 18572, \"\\u0120settlements\": 18573, \"\\u0120Pos\": 18574, \"\\u0120mosque\": 18575, \"\\u0120finals\": 18576, \"\\u0120crushed\": 18577, \"\\u0120Probably\": 18578, \"\\u0120Bot\": 18579, \"\\u0120Mans\": 18580, \"\\u0120Period\": 18581, \"\\u0120sovereignty\": 18582, \"\\u0120seller\": 18583, \"\\u0120apost\": 18584, \"\\u0120amateur\": 18585, \"\\u0120dorm\": 18586, \"\\u0120consuming\": 18587, \"\\u0120armour\": 18588, \"\\u0120Roose\": 18589, \"\\u0120intensive\": 18590, \"\\u0120eliminating\": 18591, \"\\u0120Sunni\": 18592, \"\\u0120Aleppo\": 18593, \"jin\": 18594, \"\\u0120advise\": 18595, \"pal\": 18596, \"\\u0120Halo\": 18597, \"\\u0120descent\": 18598, \"\\u0120simpler\": 18599, \"\\u0120booth\": 18600, \"STR\": 18601, \"Later\": 18602, \"\\u0120Cave\": 18603, \"===\": 18604, \"\\u0120mol\": 18605, \"\\u0120fist\": 18606, \"\\u0120shotgun\": 18607, \"supp\": 18608, \"\\u0120robbery\": 18609, \"Effect\": 18610, \"\\u0120obscure\": 18611, \"\\u0120Professional\": 18612, \"\\u0120embassy\": 18613, \"\\u0120militant\": 18614, \"\\u0120incarcer\": 18615, \"\\u0120generates\": 18616, \"\\u0120launches\": 18617, \"\\u0120administrators\": 18618, \"\\u0120shaft\": 18619, \"\\u0120circular\": 18620, \"\\u0120freshman\": 18621, \"\\u0120Wes\": 18622, \"\\u0120Joel\": 18623, \"\\u0120Drew\": 18624, \"\\u0120Duncan\": 18625, \"\\u0120Apparently\": 18626, \"sight\": 18627, \"\\u0120Internal\": 18628, \"\\u0120Individual\": 18629, \"\\u0120FE\": 18630, \"\\u0120bore\": 18631, \"\\u0120Mt\": 18632, \"\\u0120broadly\": 18633, \"\\u0120Options\": 18634, \"ountain\": 18635, \"ipes\": 18636, \"\\u0120Videos\": 18637, \"204\": 18638, \"\\u0120hills\": 18639, \"\\u0120simulation\": 18640, \"\\u0120disappointment\": 18641, \"itan\": 18642, \"\\u0120Laboratory\": 18643, \"\\u0120upward\": 18644, \"\\u0120boundary\": 18645, \"\\u0120darker\": 18646, \"hart\": 18647, \"\\u0120dominance\": 18648, \"Cong\": 18649, \"\\u0120Oracle\": 18650, \"\\u0120Lords\": 18651, \"\\u0120scholarship\": 18652, \"\\u0120Vincent\": 18653, \"ede\": 18654, \"\\u0120Rah\": 18655, \"\\u0120encourages\": 18656, \"rov\": 18657, \"\\u0120quo\": 18658, \"\\u0120premise\": 18659, \"\\u0120Crisis\": 18660, \"\\u0120Holocaust\": 18661, \"\\u0120rhythm\": 18662, \"\\u0120metric\": 18663, \"club\": 18664, \"\\u0120transported\": 18665, \"\\u0120nod\": 18666, \"\\u0120Pist\": 18667, \"\\u0120ancestors\": 18668, \"\\u0120Freder\": 18669, \"thumbnails\": 18670, \"\\u0120CE\": 18671, \"OND\": 18672, \"Phil\": 18673, \"venge\": 18674, \"\\u0120Products\": 18675, \"castle\": 18676, \"\\u0120qualifying\": 18677, \"\\u0120Karen\": 18678, \"VERTISEMENT\": 18679, \"\\u0120mighty\": 18680, \"\\u0120explanations\": 18681, \"\\u0120fixing\": 18682, \"Di\": 18683, \"\\u0120declaring\": 18684, \"\\u0120anonymity\": 18685, \"\\u0120juven\": 18686, \"\\u0120Nord\": 18687, \"\\u0120Doom\": 18688, \"\\u0120Actually\": 18689, \"Ok\": 18690, \"phis\": 18691, \"\\u0120Desert\": 18692, \"\\u0120116\": 18693, \"IK\": 18694, \"\\u0120FM\": 18695, \"\\u0120incomes\": 18696, \"VEL\": 18697, \"okers\": 18698, \"\\u0120pecul\": 18699, \"\\u0120lightweight\": 18700, \"gue\": 18701, \"\\u0120accent\": 18702, \"\\u0120increment\": 18703, \"\\u0120Chan\": 18704, \"\\u0120complaining\": 18705, \"\\u0120Baghd\": 18706, \"\\u0120midfielder\": 18707, \"\\u0120overhaul\": 18708, \"Process\": 18709, \"\\u0120Hollow\": 18710, \"\\u0120Titans\": 18711, \"Small\": 18712, \"manuel\": 18713, \"\\u0120Unity\": 18714, \"\\u0120Events\": 18715, \"Sty\": 18716, \"\\u0120disproportion\": 18717, \"nesty\": 18718, \"enes\": 18719, \"\\u0120Cod\": 18720, \"\\u0120demonstrations\": 18721, \"\\u0120Crimson\": 18722, \"\\u0120OH\": 18723, \"\\u0120enrolled\": 18724, \"\\u0120cel\": 18725, \"\\u0120Brett\": 18726, \"\\u0120aide\": 18727, \"\\u0120heels\": 18728, \"\\u0120broadband\": 18729, \"\\u0120marking\": 18730, \"\\u0120wizard\": 18731, \"\\u0120NJ\": 18732, \"\\u0120Chiefs\": 18733, \"\\u0120ingredient\": 18734, \"\\u0120dug\": 18735, \"\\u0120Shut\": 18736, \"urchase\": 18737, \"endor\": 18738, \"\\u0120farmer\": 18739, \"\\u0120Goldman\": 18740, \"129\": 18741, \"155\": 18742, \"Order\": 18743, \"\\u0120lion\": 18744, \"iably\": 18745, \"\\u0120stain\": 18746, \"array\": 18747, \"ilitary\": 18748, \"\\u0120FAQ\": 18749, \"\\u0120exploded\": 18750, \"\\u0120McCarthy\": 18751, \"\\u0120Tweet\": 18752, \"\\u0120Greens\": 18753, \"eking\": 18754, \"ln\": 18755, \"ensen\": 18756, \"\\u0120motorcycle\": 18757, \"\\u0120particle\": 18758, \"\\u0120cholesterol\": 18759, \"Bron\": 18760, \"\\u0120stair\": 18761, \"\\u0120oxid\": 18762, \"\\u0120desirable\": 18763, \"ibles\": 18764, \"\\u0120theor\": 18765, \"forcing\": 18766, \"\\u0120promotional\": 18767, \"ovo\": 18768, \"boot\": 18769, \"\\u0120Bonus\": 18770, \"rawling\": 18771, \"\\u0120shortage\": 18772, \"\\u0120Psy\": 18773, \"\\u0120recruited\": 18774, \"\\u0120infants\": 18775, \"\\u0120testosterone\": 18776, \"\\u0120deduct\": 18777, \"\\u0120distinctive\": 18778, \"\\u0120firmware\": 18779, \"built\": 18780, \"145\": 18781, \"\\u0120explored\": 18782, \"\\u0120factions\": 18783, \"\\u0120vide\": 18784, \"\\u0120tattoo\": 18785, \"\\u0120financially\": 18786, \"\\u0120fatigue\": 18787, \"\\u0120proceeding\": 18788, \"constitutional\": 18789, \"\\u0120miser\": 18790, \"\\u0120chairs\": 18791, \"gging\": 18792, \"ipple\": 18793, \"\\u0120dent\": 18794, \"\\u0120disreg\": 18795, \"\\u00e7\\u0136\": 18796, \"stant\": 18797, \"llo\": 18798, \"bps\": 18799, \"akening\": 18800, \"\\u0120abnormal\": 18801, \"\\u0120ERA\": 18802, \"\\u00e5\\u00a3\\u00ab\": 18803, \"\\u0120HBO\": 18804, \"\\u0120MAR\": 18805, \"\\u0120concess\": 18806, \"\\u0120servant\": 18807, \"\\u0120aspir\": 18808, \"lav\": 18809, \"\\u0120Panel\": 18810, \"amo\": 18811, \"\\u0120precip\": 18812, \"\\u0120recordings\": 18813, \"\\u0120proceeded\": 18814, \"\\u0120colony\": 18815, \"\\u0120Tang\": 18816, \"ablo\": 18817, \"\\u0120stripped\": 18818, \"Left\": 18819, \"too\": 18820, \"\\u0120potatoes\": 18821, \"\\u0120finest\": 18822, \"%).\": 18823, \"\\u0120crap\": 18824, \"\\u0120Zach\": 18825, \"abases\": 18826, \"\\u0120Goth\": 18827, \"\\u0120billionaire\": 18828, \"wolf\": 18829, \"\\u0120sanction\": 18830, \"SK\": 18831, \"\\u0120logged\": 18832, \"Po\": 18833, \"eyed\": 18834, \"unal\": 18835, \"\\u0120cricket\": 18836, \"\\u0120armies\": 18837, \"\\u0120uncovered\": 18838, \"Cloud\": 18839, \"\\u00c3\\u00b3n\": 18840, \"\\u0120rebounds\": 18841, \"\\u0120mes\": 18842, \"Oper\": 18843, \"Pac\": 18844, \"\\u0120nationally\": 18845, \"\\u0120inserted\": 18846, \"pict\": 18847, \"\\u0120governance\": 18848, \"\\u00d0\\u00b8\": 18849, \"\\u0120privileges\": 18850, \"GET\": 18851, \"\\u0120favorites\": 18852, \"imity\": 18853, \"\\u0120lover\": 18854, \"them\": 18855, \"empl\": 18856, \"\\u0120gorgeous\": 18857, \"Ann\": 18858, \"\\u0120slipped\": 18859, \"\\u0120veto\": 18860, \"Bob\": 18861, \"\\u0120slim\": 18862, \"ucc\": 18863, \"\\u0120Fame\": 18864, \"uddenly\": 18865, \"\\u0120denies\": 18866, \"\\u0120Maur\": 18867, \"\\u0120distances\": 18868, \"\\u0120wanna\": 18869, \"tar\": 18870, \"\\u0120SER\": 18871, \"\\u0120\\u00e2\\u012a\": 18872, \"\\u0120lemon\": 18873, \"athetic\": 18874, \"\\u0120literal\": 18875, \"\\u0120distinguished\": 18876, \"\\u0120answering\": 18877, \"GI\": 18878, \"\\u0120religions\": 18879, \"\\u0120Philos\": 18880, \"\\u0120Lay\": 18881, \"\\u0120compos\": 18882, \"irements\": 18883, \"\\u0120Kos\": 18884, \"inez\": 18885, \"rolling\": 18886, \"\\u0120youngest\": 18887, \"andise\": 18888, \"\\u0120Born\": 18889, \"\\u0120altar\": 18890, \"amina\": 18891, \"\\u0120Boot\": 18892, \"voc\": 18893, \"\\u0120digging\": 18894, \"\\u0120pressures\": 18895, \"\\u0120len\": 18896, \"264\": 18897, \"\\u0120assassination\": 18898, \"\\u0120Birmingham\": 18899, \"\\u0120Myth\": 18900, \"\\u0120sovereign\": 18901, \"\\u0120Artist\": 18902, \"\\u0120Photograph\": 18903, \"\\u0120depicted\": 18904, \"\\u0120dispens\": 18905, \"orthy\": 18906, \"\\u0120ambul\": 18907, \"integ\": 18908, \"\\u0120Cele\": 18909, \"\\u0120Tibet\": 18910, \"\\u0120hierarchy\": 18911, \"\\u0120cu\": 18912, \"\\u0120preseason\": 18913, \"\\u0120Peterson\": 18914, \"\\u0120colours\": 18915, \"\\u0120worrying\": 18916, \"\\u0120backers\": 18917, \"\\u0120Palmer\": 18918, \"\\u0120\\u00ce\\u00bc\": 18919, \"\\u0120contributor\": 18920, \"\\u0120hearings\": 18921, \"\\u0120urine\": 18922, \"\\u0120\\u00d9\": 18923, \"ourgeois\": 18924, \"Similar\": 18925, \"\\u0120Zimmer\": 18926, \"something\": 18927, \"\\u0120USC\": 18928, \"\\u0120strengths\": 18929, \"\\u0120FI\": 18930, \"\\u0120logging\": 18931, \"Asked\": 18932, \"\\u0120Thai\": 18933, \"inqu\": 18934, \"\\u0120Walt\": 18935, \"\\u0120crews\": 18936, \"itism\": 18937, \"301\": 18938, \"\\u0120sharply\": 18939, \"umed\": 18940, \"\\u0120redirect\": 18941, \"rators\": 18942, \"Inf\": 18943, \"\\u0120Weapons\": 18944, \"\\u0120teasp\": 18945, \"1999\": 18946, \"Live\": 18947, \"\\u0120Especially\": 18948, \"\\u0120Ster\": 18949, \"\\u0120Veterans\": 18950, \"\\u0120intro\": 18951, \"otherapy\": 18952, \"\\u0120malware\": 18953, \"\\u0120breeding\": 18954, \"\\u0120molecular\": 18955, \"\\u0120Route\": 18956, \"\\u0120Comment\": 18957, \"ochem\": 18958, \"\\u0120ain\": 18959, \"Season\": 18960, \"\\u0120linebacker\": 18961, \"\\u00c4\\u00ab\": 18962, \"\\u0120Economics\": 18963, \"esar\": 18964, \"\\u0120Lives\": 18965, \"\\u0120Emma\": 18966, \"\\u0120kin\": 18967, \"\\u0120Territ\": 18968, \"\\u0120planted\": 18969, \"oton\": 18970, \"\\u0120Butter\": 18971, \"\\u0120Spons\": 18972, \"PER\": 18973, \"\\u0120dungeon\": 18974, \"\\u0120symbolic\": 18975, \"\\u0120filmed\": 18976, \"\\u0120diets\": 18977, \"\\u0120concludes\": 18978, \"\\u0120certainty\": 18979, \"\\u0120Format\": 18980, \"\\u0120strangers\": 18981, \"format\": 18982, \"\\u0120Phase\": 18983, \"\\u0120copied\": 18984, \"\\u0120metres\": 18985, \"lda\": 18986, \"\\u0120Users\": 18987, \"\\u0120deliberate\": 18988, \"\\u0120washed\": 18989, \"\\u0120Lance\": 18990, \"imation\": 18991, \"\\u0120improper\": 18992, \"\\u0120Genesis\": 18993, \"ickr\": 18994, \"\\u0120Kush\": 18995, \"\\u0120realise\": 18996, \"\\u0120embarrassing\": 18997, \"alking\": 18998, \"bucks\": 18999, \"\\u0120verified\": 19000, \"\\u0120outline\": 19001, \"years\": 19002, \"\\u0120Income\": 19003, \"202\": 19004, \"\\u0120zombies\": 19005, \"Final\": 19006, \"\\u0120Millenn\": 19007, \"\\u0120modifications\": 19008, \"\\u0120Vision\": 19009, \"\\u0120Moses\": 19010, \"verb\": 19011, \"iterranean\": 19012, \"\\u0120Jet\": 19013, \"\\u0120naval\": 19014, \"\\u0120Agg\": 19015, \"\\u0120url\": 19016, \"\\u0120victories\": 19017, \"\\u0120nonetheless\": 19018, \"\\u0120injust\": 19019, \"\\u0120Fact\": 19020, \"\\u00e7\\u013c\": 19021, \"\\u0120insufficient\": 19022, \"review\": 19023, \"facebook\": 19024, \"\\u0120negotiating\": 19025, \"\\u0120guarantees\": 19026, \"imen\": 19027, \"utenberg\": 19028, \"\\u0120gambling\": 19029, \"\\u0120congr\": 19030, \"Loading\": 19031, \"\\u0120nevertheless\": 19032, \"\\u0120presidents\": 19033, \"\\u0120Industrial\": 19034, \"\\u0120118\": 19035, \"\\u0120poured\": 19036, \"\\u0120Tory\": 19037, \"\\u0120175\": 19038, \"\\u0120:=\": 19039, \"Scott\": 19040, \"angered\": 19041, \"Tok\": 19042, \"\\u0120organizers\": 19043, \"Mat\": 19044, \"\\u0120Growth\": 19045, \"\\u0120adul\": 19046, \"\\u0120ensures\": 19047, \"\\u0120117\": 19048, \"\\u00e9\\u00be\\u012f\\u00e5\": 19049, \"\\u0120massacre\": 19050, \"\\u0120grades\": 19051, \"before\": 19052, \"ADVERTISEMENT\": 19053, \"\\u0120Slow\": 19054, \"\\u0120MMA\": 19055, \"\\u00e2\\u0122\\u0136\\\"\": 19056, \"\\u0120Vatican\": 19057, \"Qaeda\": 19058, \"\\u0120owe\": 19059, \"6666\": 19060, \"\\u0120Sorry\": 19061, \"\\u0120Grass\": 19062, \"\\u0120backgrounds\": 19063, \"\\u0120exhausted\": 19064, \"\\u0120clan\": 19065, \"\\u0120compromised\": 19066, \"\\u0120Elf\": 19067, \"\\u0120Isaac\": 19068, \"enson\": 19069, \"Invest\": 19070, \"IFA\": 19071, \"\\u0120interrupted\": 19072, \"\\u00e3\\u0125\\u012b\\u00e3\\u0125\\u00a9\": 19073, \"\\u0120twisted\": 19074, \"\\u0120Dragons\": 19075, \"Mode\": 19076, \"\\u0120Kremlin\": 19077, \"\\u0120fertil\": 19078, \"heres\": 19079, \"phan\": 19080, \"\\u0120Node\": 19081, \"fed\": 19082, \"\\u0120Orc\": 19083, \"\\u0120unwilling\": 19084, \"Cent\": 19085, \"\\u0120priorit\": 19086, \"\\u0120graduates\": 19087, \"\\u0120subjective\": 19088, \"\\u0120issuing\": 19089, \"\\u0120Lt\": 19090, \"\\u0120viewer\": 19091, \"\\u0120woke\": 19092, \"Thus\": 19093, \"brook\": 19094, \"\\u0120depressed\": 19095, \"\\u0120bracket\": 19096, \"\\u0120Gor\": 19097, \"\\u0120Fighting\": 19098, \"\\u0120striker\": 19099, \"Report\": 19100, \"\\u0120Portugal\": 19101, \"\\u0120neo\": 19102, \"wed\": 19103, \"199\": 19104, \"\\u0120fleeing\": 19105, \"shadow\": 19106, \"identified\": 19107, \"USE\": 19108, \"Steam\": 19109, \"\\u0120stretched\": 19110, \"\\u0120revelations\": 19111, \"arted\": 19112, \"\\u0120Dw\": 19113, \"\\u0120alignment\": 19114, \"eston\": 19115, \"\\u0120Jared\": 19116, \"Sep\": 19117, \"\\u0120blogs\": 19118, \"update\": 19119, \"gom\": 19120, \"risk\": 19121, \"\\u0120clash\": 19122, \"\\u0120Hour\": 19123, \"\\u0120runtime\": 19124, \"\\u0120unwanted\": 19125, \"\\u0120scam\": 19126, \"\\u0120rack\": 19127, \"\\u0120enlight\": 19128, \"onest\": 19129, \"\\u0120Ferr\": 19130, \"\\u0120convictions\": 19131, \"\\u0120piano\": 19132, \"\\u0120circulation\": 19133, \"\\u0120Welcome\": 19134, \"\\u0120backlash\": 19135, \"\\u0120Wade\": 19136, \"\\u0120receivers\": 19137, \"otive\": 19138, \"Jeff\": 19139, \"\\u0120networking\": 19140, \"\\u0120Prep\": 19141, \"\\u0120Explorer\": 19142, \"\\u0120lecture\": 19143, \"\\u0120uploaded\": 19144, \"\\u0120Meat\": 19145, \"BLE\": 19146, \"\\u0120Nazis\": 19147, \"\\u0120Synd\": 19148, \"stud\": 19149, \"roots\": 19150, \"rians\": 19151, \"\\u0120portrayed\": 19152, \"\\u0120??\": 19153, \"\\u0120Buddha\": 19154, \"sun\": 19155, \"Robert\": 19156, \"\\u0120Complex\": 19157, \"\\u0120oversee\": 19158, \"\\u0120stealth\": 19159, \"Title\": 19160, \"\\u0120Jobs\": 19161, \"\\u0120Kum\": 19162, \"\\u0120appreciation\": 19163, \"\\u0120MOD\": 19164, \"\\u0120basics\": 19165, \"\\u0120clips\": 19166, \"\\u0120nursing\": 19167, \"\\u0120proposition\": 19168, \"\\u0120realised\": 19169, \"\\u0120NYC\": 19170, \"\\u0120allocated\": 19171, \"rium\": 19172, \"aran\": 19173, \"\\u0120Production\": 19174, \"\\u0120Vote\": 19175, \"\\u0120smugg\": 19176, \"\\u0120hunter\": 19177, \"azer\": 19178, \"\\u0120Changes\": 19179, \"\\u0120fluct\": 19180, \"yon\": 19181, \"Array\": 19182, \"\\u0120kits\": 19183, \"Water\": 19184, \"\\u0120uncommon\": 19185, \"\\u0120resting\": 19186, \"ells\": 19187, \"would\": 19188, \"\\u0120pursued\": 19189, \"\\u0120assertion\": 19190, \"ometown\": 19191, \"\\u0120Mosul\": 19192, \"\\u0120Platform\": 19193, \"iolet\": 19194, \"\\u0120shareholders\": 19195, \"\\u0120trails\": 19196, \"Pay\": 19197, \"\\u0120Enforcement\": 19198, \"types\": 19199, \"\\u0120Anonymous\": 19200, \"\\u0120satisfying\": 19201, \"ilogy\": 19202, \"\\u0120('\": 19203, \"wave\": 19204, \"city\": 19205, \"Steve\": 19206, \"\\u0120confrontation\": 19207, \"\\u0120Eld\": 19208, \"Capt\": 19209, \"ahan\": 19210, \"htm\": 19211, \"\\u0120Ctrl\": 19212, \"ONS\": 19213, \"230\": 19214, \"ifa\": 19215, \"holding\": 19216, \"\\u0120delicate\": 19217, \"\\u0120jaw\": 19218, \"\\u0120Going\": 19219, \"orum\": 19220, \"Sal\": 19221, \"\\u0120dull\": 19222, \"\\u0120Beth\": 19223, \"\\u0120prisons\": 19224, \"\\u0120ego\": 19225, \"\\u0120Elsa\": 19226, \"avorite\": 19227, \"\\u0120Gang\": 19228, \"\\u0120Nuclear\": 19229, \"\\u0120spider\": 19230, \"atsu\": 19231, \"\\u0120sampling\": 19232, \"\\u0120absorbed\": 19233, \"\\u0120Pharm\": 19234, \"ieth\": 19235, \"\\u0120bucket\": 19236, \"\\u0120Recomm\": 19237, \"OF\": 19238, \"\\u0120Factory\": 19239, \"ANCE\": 19240, \"\\u0120bacter\": 19241, \"Has\": 19242, \"\\u0120Observ\": 19243, \"121\": 19244, \"\\u0120premiere\": 19245, \"Develop\": 19246, \"\\u0120currencies\": 19247, \"Cast\": 19248, \"\\u0120accompanying\": 19249, \"\\u0120Nashville\": 19250, \"\\u0120fatty\": 19251, \"\\u0120Brend\": 19252, \"\\u0120locks\": 19253, \"\\u0120centered\": 19254, \"\\u0120UT\": 19255, \"aughs\": 19256, \"orie\": 19257, 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\"awk\": 19301, \"Interest\": 19302, \"\\u0120interim\": 19303, \"\\u0120breakthrough\": 19304, \"\\u0120Cher\": 19305, \"\\u0120prosec\": 19306, \"\\u0120Dj\": 19307, \"\\u0120MT\": 19308, \"Resp\": 19309, \"\\u0120PT\": 19310, \"\\u0120sperm\": 19311, \"edit\": 19312, \"BT\": 19313, \"Linux\": 19314, \"country\": 19315, \"league\": 19316, \"\\u0120dick\": 19317, \"\\u0120oct\": 19318, \"\\u0120inserting\": 19319, \"\\u0120scra\": 19320, \"\\u0120Brewing\": 19321, \"\\u01201966\": 19322, \"\\u0120runners\": 19323, \"\\u0120plun\": 19324, \"idy\": 19325, \"\\u0120Dian\": 19326, \"\\u0120dysfunction\": 19327, \"\\u0120exclusion\": 19328, \"\\u0120disgr\": 19329, \"\\u0120incorporate\": 19330, \"\\u0120reconc\": 19331, \"\\u0120nominated\": 19332, \"\\u0120Archer\": 19333, \"draw\": 19334, \"achelor\": 19335, \"\\u0120writings\": 19336, \"\\u0120shallow\": 19337, \"\\u0120hast\": 19338, \"\\u0120BMW\": 19339, \"\\u0120RS\": 19340, \"\\u0120thigh\": 19341, \"\\u01201963\": 19342, 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\"\\u0120Electronic\": 19508, \"short\": 19509, \"((\": 19510, \"Dig\": 19511, \"\\u0120commem\": 19512, \"uced\": 19513, \"\\u0120inclined\": 19514, \"\\u0120Summon\": 19515, \"\\u0120cliff\": 19516, \"\\u0120Mediterranean\": 19517, \"\\u0120poetry\": 19518, \"\\u0120prosperity\": 19519, \"\\u0120Rece\": 19520, \"\\u0120pills\": 19521, \"member\": 19522, \"\\u0120finale\": 19523, \"unc\": 19524, \"\\u0120Gig\": 19525, \"\\u00e4\\u00bd\": 19526, \"\\u0120lod\": 19527, \"\\u0120backward\": 19528, \"-+\": 19529, \"\\u0120Forward\": 19530, \"\\u0120thri\": 19531, \"sure\": 19532, \"\\u0120soap\": 19533, \"\\u0120FX\": 19534, \"RES\": 19535, \"\\u0120Sexual\": 19536, \"oulos\": 19537, \"\\u0120foolish\": 19538, \"\\u0120righteous\": 19539, \"\\u0120coff\": 19540, \"terrorism\": 19541, \"ustain\": 19542, \"oter\": 19543, \"\\u0120abuses\": 19544, \"next\": 19545, \"\\u0120abusive\": 19546, \"\\u0120thereafter\": 19547, \"\\u0120prohibition\": 19548, \"\\u0120SUP\": 19549, \"\\u0120dip\": 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\"\\u0120typing\": 19720, \"authorized\": 19721, \"Option\": 19722, \"\\u0120Aub\": 19723, \"lishes\": 19724, \"acht\": 19725, \"mag\": 19726, \"Peter\": 19727, \"\\u0120UFO\": 19728, \"monton\": 19729, \"\\u0120Lith\": 19730, \"\\u0120arom\": 19731, \"\\u0120securing\": 19732, \"\\u0120confined\": 19733, \"private\": 19734, \"\\u0120swords\": 19735, \"\\u0120markers\": 19736, \"\\u0120metabolic\": 19737, \"select\": 19738, \"\\u0120Curse\": 19739, \"\\u0120Ot\": 19740, \"gressive\": 19741, \"\\u0120incumb\": 19742, \"\\u0120Saga\": 19743, \"\\u0120priced\": 19744, \"\\u0120clearance\": 19745, \"Content\": 19746, \"\\u0120drilling\": 19747, \"\\u0120notices\": 19748, \"\\u0120bourgeois\": 19749, \"\\u0120vest\": 19750, \"\\u0120cookie\": 19751, \"\\u0120Guardians\": 19752, \"rys\": 19753, \"inyl\": 19754, \"\\u0120124\": 19755, \"\\u0120plausible\": 19756, \"ongh\": 19757, \"\\u0120Odin\": 19758, \"\\u0120conception\": 19759, \"\\u0120Yuk\": 19760, \"\\u0120Baghdad\": 19761, 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19927, \"\\u0120GRE\": 19928, \"istical\": 19929, \"LP\": 19930, \"\\u0120Cav\": 19931, \"\\u0120Crazy\": 19932, \"\\u0120intuitive\": 19933, \"keeping\": 19934, \"\\u0120Moss\": 19935, \"\\u0120discontin\": 19936, \"\\u0120Module\": 19937, \"\\u0120unrelated\": 19938, \"\\u0120Practice\": 19939, \"\\u0120Transport\": 19940, \"\\u0120statistically\": 19941, \"orns\": 19942, \"\\u0120sized\": 19943, \"pu\": 19944, \"\\u0120caf\": 19945, \"\\u0120Worlds\": 19946, \"\\u0120Rodgers\": 19947, \"\\u0120Lun\": 19948, \"\\u0120Comic\": 19949, \"living\": 19950, \"\\u0120cared\": 19951, \"\\u0120climbed\": 19952, \"){\": 19953, \"\\u0120consisted\": 19954, \"\\u0120medieval\": 19955, \"folk\": 19956, \"\\u0120hacked\": 19957, \"\\u0120dire\": 19958, \"\\u0120Hermione\": 19959, \"\\u0120tended\": 19960, \"ceans\": 19961, \"Daniel\": 19962, \"went\": 19963, \"\\u0120legislators\": 19964, \"\\u0120redes\": 19965, \"games\": 19966, \"\\u0120gn\": 19967, \"amiliar\": 19968, \"\\u0120++\": 19969, 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\"join\": 22179, \"\\u00e3\\u0123\\u0139\": 22180, \"itational\": 22181, \"NP\": 22182, \"\\u0120Writing\": 22183, \"fn\": 22184, \"\\u0120Bever\": 22185, \"195\": 22186, \"\\u0120yelling\": 22187, \"\\u0120drastically\": 22188, \"\\u0120eject\": 22189, \"\\u0120neut\": 22190, \"\\u0120thrive\": 22191, \"\\u0120Frequ\": 22192, \"oux\": 22193, \"\\u0120possesses\": 22194, \"\\u0120Senators\": 22195, \"\\u0120DES\": 22196, \"\\u0120Shakespeare\": 22197, \"\\u0120Franco\": 22198, \"\\u0120LB\": 22199, \"uchi\": 22200, \"\\u0120incarn\": 22201, \"\\u0120founders\": 22202, \"Function\": 22203, \"\\u0120brightness\": 22204, \"\\u0120BT\": 22205, \"\\u0120whale\": 22206, \"\\u0120Theater\": 22207, \"mass\": 22208, \"\\u0120Doll\": 22209, \"Something\": 22210, \"\\u0120echoed\": 22211, \"\\u0120Hex\": 22212, \"crit\": 22213, \"afia\": 22214, \"\\u0120goddess\": 22215, \"\\u0120eleven\": 22216, \"\\u0120Preview\": 22217, \"\\u0120Aurora\": 22218, \"\\u0120401\": 22219, \"ulsive\": 22220, 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\"\\u00c3\\u0125\\u00c3\\u0124\\u00c3\\u0125\\u00c3\\u0124\\u00c3\\u0125\\u00c3\\u0124\\u00c3\\u0125\\u00c3\\u0124\\u00c3\\u0125\\u00c3\\u0124\\u00c3\\u0125\\u00c3\\u0124\\u00c3\\u0125\\u00c3\\u0124\\u00c3\\u0125\\u00c3\\u0124\\u00c3\\u0125\\u00c3\\u0124\\u00c3\\u0125\\u00c3\\u0124\\u00c3\\u0125\\u00c3\\u0124\\u00c3\\u0125\\u00c3\\u0124\\u00c3\\u0125\\u00c3\\u0124\\u00c3\\u0125\\u00c3\\u0124\\u00c3\\u0125\\u00c3\\u0124\\u00c3\\u0125\\u00c3\\u0124\": 23090, \"idelity\": 23091, \"\\u0120Vern\": 23092, \"\\u0120Login\": 23093, \"\\u0120metaphor\": 23094, \"\\u0120Tip\": 23095, \"\\u0120recruits\": 23096, \"\\u0120Pig\": 23097, \"ribing\": 23098, \"\\u0120enthusiasts\": 23099, \"exper\": 23100, \"\\u0120frightening\": 23101, \"\\u0120Hair\": 23102, \"anson\": 23103, \"strate\": 23104, \"\\u0120hi\": 23105, \"Height\": 23106, \"\\u0120owning\": 23107, \"none\": 23108, \"\\u0120dislike\": 23109, \"\\u0120knives\": 23110, \"pherd\": 23111, \"\\u0120loudly\": 23112, \"\\u0120APIs\": 23113, \"Display\": 23114, \"\\u0120Lac\": 23115, \"\\u0120USS\": 23116, \"abl\": 23117, \"verages\": 23118, \"Jew\": 23119, \"\\u0120172\": 23120, \"\\u0120Historical\": 23121, \"atoon\": 23122, \"\\u0120Physics\": 23123, \"intern\": 23124, \"\\u0120warmth\": 23125, \"\\u0120topp\": 23126, \"DM\": 23127, \"\\u0120gunman\": 23128, \"\\u0120emperor\": 23129, \"odi\": 23130, \"\\u00e3\\u0125\\u00a3\": 23131, \"inatory\": 23132, \"\\u0120Rib\": 23133, \"\\u0120131\": 23134, \"\\u0120Saturn\": 23135, \"\\u0120Shining\": 23136, \"\\u0120waking\": 23137, \"Quotes\": 23138, \"\\u0120comedian\": 23139, \"enberg\": 23140, \"\\u00c2\\u00bd\": 23141, \"\\u0120believers\": 23142, \"\\u0120paperwork\": 23143, \"custom\": 23144, \"\\u0120lev\": 23145, \"\\u0120lament\": 23146, \"\\u0120pouring\": 23147, \"222\": 23148, \"political\": 23149, \"\\u0120Supplement\": 23150, \"maid\": 23151, \"\\u0120cruelty\": 23152, \"\\u0120tread\": 23153, \"ysics\": 23154, \"Aw\": 23155, \"rites\": 23156, \"\\u0120modifier\": 23157, \"\\u0120Position\": 23158, \"Adam\": 23159, \"lb\": 23160, \"ubs\": 23161, \"\\u0120imperfect\": 23162, \"\\u0120clusters\": 23163, \"\\u0120Engineer\": 23164, \"\\u0120Cherry\": 23165, \"\\u0120inauguration\": 23166, \"\\u0120Sau\": 23167, \"\\u0120embodiment\": 23168, \"\\u0120Uncle\": 23169, \"\\u0120overr\": 23170, \"\\u0120explosions\": 23171, \"cule\": 23172, \"\\u0120Princeton\": 23173, \"\\u0120Andrea\": 23174, \"\\u0120incorrectly\": 23175, \"\\u0120earnest\": 23176, \"\\u0120pilgr\": 23177, \"\\u0120Sprint\": 23178, \"\\u0120sleeve\": 23179, \"\\u0120hears\": 23180, \"\\u0120Amazing\": 23181, \"\\u0120browsing\": 23182, \"agin\": 23183, \"\\u0120homeland\": 23184, \"\\u0120haw\": 23185, \"\\u0120diving\": 23186, \"istered\": 23187, \"178\": 23188, \"\\u0120bargaining\": 23189, \"\\u0120Arcade\": 23190, \"\\u0120delegate\": 23191, \"terson\": 23192, \"................................................................\": 23193, \"\\u0120Jacksonville\": 23194, \"275\": 23195, \"\\u0120stagn\": 23196, \"\\u0120adam\": 23197, \"\\u0120Sherman\": 23198, \"CB\": 23199, \"\\u0120suburb\": 23200, \"\\u0120Foods\": 23201, \"\\u0120converting\": 23202, \"\\u0120Arist\": 23203, \"\\u0120chambers\": 23204, \"love\": 23205, \"\\u0120amino\": 23206, \"\\u0120Gan\": 23207, \"\\u0120madness\": 23208, \"mc\": 23209, \"\\u0120USE\": 23210, \"defined\": 23211, \"\\u0120ultr\": 23212, \"indust\": 23213, \"\\u0120wolves\": 23214, \"lance\": 23215, \"Additionally\": 23216, \"\\u0120cracks\": 23217, \"asia\": 23218, \"\\u0120Reason\": 23219, \"\\u0120Pump\": 23220, \"\\u0120accidental\": 23221, \"\\u0120Laser\": 23222, \"\\u0120Rid\": 23223, \"\\u0120initialized\": 23224, \"elli\": 23225, \"\\u0120unnamed\": 23226, \"\\u0120noun\": 23227, \"\\u0120Passed\": 23228, \"\\u0120hostage\": 23229, \"\\u0120Ethiop\": 23230, \"shirts\": 23231, \"\\u0120unrel\": 23232, \"\\u0120Embassy\": 23233, \"\\u01201941\": 23234, \"\\u0120atoms\": 23235, \"\\u0120purported\": 23236, \"164\": 23237, \"\\u0120Fi\": 23238, \"\\u0120gallons\": 23239, \"\\u0120Monica\": 23240, \"\\u0120pg\": 23241, \"enment\": 23242, \"\\u0120sorted\": 23243, \"\\u0120Gospel\": 23244, \"\\u0120heights\": 23245, \"\\u0120traced\": 23246, \"\\u0120undergoing\": 23247, \"Shell\": 23248, \"\\u0120sacks\": 23249, \"\\u0120proportions\": 23250, \"\\u0120halluc\": 23251, \"Font\": 23252, \"acet\": 23253, \"\\u0120warmer\": 23254, \"\\u0120INTER\": 23255, \"\\u0120grabbing\": 23256, \"Plug\": 23257, \"\\u0120realization\": 23258, \"\\u0120Burke\": 23259, \"\\u0120enchant\": 23260, \"ATER\": 23261, \"\\u0120Seed\": 23262, \"\\u0120abundant\": 23263, \"FM\": 23264, \"\\u0120civic\": 23265, \"Vs\": 23266, \"isi\": 23267, \"\\u0120vow\": 23268, \"\\u0120reper\": 23269, \"\\u0120Partnership\": 23270, \"\\u0120penetration\": 23271, \"\\u0120axe\": 23272, \"\\u0120shattered\": 23273, \"\\u0120Zombies\": 23274, \"\\u0120vinyl\": 23275, \"\\u0120Alert\": 23276, \"eon\": 23277, \"\\u0120obliged\": 23278, \"\\u0120Illust\": 23279, \"\\u0120Plaza\": 23280, \"\\u0120Frontier\": 23281, \"\\u0120davidjl\": 23282, \"\\u0120Serial\": 23283, \"\\u0120Hav\": 23284, \"\\u0120Nutrition\": 23285, \"Bi\": 23286, \"\\u0120\\u00e2\\u0138\\u012a\": 23287, \"\\u0120Jays\": 23288, \"linux\": 23289, \"\\u0120hurry\": 23290, \"\\u0120voy\": 23291, \"\\u0120hopeless\": 23292, \"\\u0120Stealth\": 23293, \"\\u0120\\u00e3\\u0123\": 23294, \"essors\": 23295, \"ttle\": 23296, \"borg\": 23297, \"\\u0120Safari\": 23298, \"fell\": 23299, \"\\u0120wary\": 23300, \"due\": 23301, \"\\u0120Above\": 23302, \"Ha\": 23303, \"ELL\": 23304, \"\\u0120notor\": 23305, \"\\u0120Won\": 23306, \"Too\": 23307, \"\\u0120occupations\": 23308, \"\\u0120possessions\": 23309, \"\\u0120inviting\": 23310, \"\\u0120predators\": 23311, \"\\u0120accelerated\": 23312, \"\\u0120157\": 23313, \"uterte\": 23314, \"\\u0120Cube\": 23315, \"east\": 23316, \"account\": 23317, \"Give\": 23318, \"\\u0120transplant\": 23319, \"redients\": 23320, \"idable\": 23321, \"\\u0120screenshots\": 23322, \"\\u0120Gund\": 23323, \"\\u0120FS\": 23324, \"\\u0120travelers\": 23325, \"\\u0120sensory\": 23326, \"\\u0120Fiat\": 23327, \"\\u0120Rockets\": 23328, \"\\u0130\\u012d\": 23329, \"_{\": 23330, \"Friend\": 23331, \"\\u0120charming\": 23332, \"ALS\": 23333, \"\\u0120enjoyment\": 23334, \"mph\": 23335, \"\\u01205000\": 23336, \"\\u0120REG\": 23337, \"\\u00d9\\u0128\": 23338, \"bia\": 23339, \"\\u0120compilation\": 23340, \"rost\": 23341, \"\\u0120VP\": 23342, \"\\u0120Schne\": 23343, \"2019\": 23344, \"\\u0120copying\": 23345, \"MORE\": 23346, \"\\u0120Flore\": 23347, \"falls\": 23348, \"215\": 23349, \"total\": 23350, \"\\u0120disciples\": 23351, \"double\": 23352, \"\\u0120exceeding\": 23353, \"\\u0120smashed\": 23354, \"\\u0120conceptual\": 23355, \"\\u0120Romania\": 23356, \"\\u0120Brent\": 23357, \"\\u0120ICE\": 23358, \"\\u0120Tou\": 23359, \"\\u0120grap\": 23360, \"\\u0120nails\": 23361, \"189\": 23362, \"\\u00e3\\u0125\\u013a\": 23363, \"\\u0120procure\": 23364, \"eur\": 23365, \"\\u0120confirming\": 23366, \"\\u0120Cec\": 23367, \"awi\": 23368, \"\\u0120Eden\": 23369, \"\\u0120ng\": 23370, \"\\u0120engineered\": 23371, \"atics\": 23372, \"\\u0120hooked\": 23373, \"\\u0120disgusting\": 23374, \"\\u0120Murder\": 23375, \"\\u00e3\\u0124\\u00bf\": 23376, \"Library\": 23377, \"\\u0120168\": 23378, \"Almost\": 23379, \"hematic\": 23380, \"Menu\": 23381, \"\\u0120Notre\": 23382, \"\\u0120Jur\": 23383, \"\\u0120kidnapped\": 23384, \"\\u0120hacker\": 23385, \"\\u0120Jade\": 23386, \"\\u0120creepy\": 23387, \"\\u0120drawings\": 23388, \"\\u0120Sponsor\": 23389, \"\\u0120cyclists\": 23390, \"\\u0120Goblin\": 23391, \"\\u0120optimized\": 23392, \"\\u0120staged\": 23393, \"\\u0120McD\": 23394, \"between\": 23395, \"Age\": 23396, \"eno\": 23397, \"Sex\": 23398, \"\\u0120Wide\": 23399, \"nings\": 23400, \"avis\": 23401, \"\\u0120incapable\": 23402, \"\\u0120Kob\": 23403, \"\\u0120rewarding\": 23404, \"\\u0120Lone\": 23405, \"olescent\": 23406, \"\\u0120contracted\": 23407, \"\\u0120sticky\": 23408, \"Jose\": 23409, \"Ball\": 23410, \"fest\": 23411, \"\\u0120Input\": 23412, \"\\u0120Recently\": 23413, \"\\u0120tomat\": 23414, \"square\": 23415, \"Application\": 23416, \"\\u0120nitrogen\": 23417, \"\\u0120duplicate\": 23418, \"\\u0120Recon\": 23419, \"\\u0120Dear\": 23420, \"London\": 23421, \"\\u0120intra\": 23422, \"\\u0120dock\": 23423, \"\\u0120outreach\": 23424, \"\\u0120Million\": 23425, \"\\u0120mammals\": 23426, \"ampton\": 23427, \"VAL\": 23428, \"\\u0120snaps\": 23429, \"\\u0120dos\": 23430, \"\\u0120Whole\": 23431, \"\\u0120Ready\": 23432, \"Try\": 23433, \"\\u0120Winnipeg\": 23434, \"earance\": 23435, \"\\u0120incurred\": 23436, \"renched\": 23437, \"\\u0120NSW\": 23438, \"ilot\": 23439, \"raine\": 23440, \"\\u0120cube\": 23441, \"got\": 23442, \"\\u0120runway\": 23443, \"etermined\": 23444, \"\\u0120Hawks\": 23445, \"\\u0120survivor\": 23446, \"\\u0120Wish\": 23447, \"\\u0120Din\": 23448, \"\\u0120DEF\": 23449, \"\\u0120Vault\": 23450, \"187\": 23451, \"\\u0120mushrooms\": 23452, \"\\u0120crisp\": 23453, \"bey\": 23454, \"\\u0120Discovery\": 23455, \"\\u0120developmental\": 23456, \"\\u0120paradigm\": 23457, \"\\u0120chaotic\": 23458, \"\\u0120Tsu\": 23459, \"\\u0120333\": 23460, \"bons\": 23461, \"\\u0120bacterial\": 23462, \"\\u0120commits\": 23463, \"\\u0120cosmic\": 23464, \"\\u0120mega\": 23465, \"ocative\": 23466, \"\\u0120Paint\": 23467, \"ophobic\": 23468, \"\\u0120vain\": 23469, \"\\u0120carved\": 23470, \"\\u0120Thief\": 23471, \"\\u0120Gul\": 23472, \"owship\": 23473, \"\\u0120cites\": 23474, \"\\u0120Edinburgh\": 23475, \"\\u0120diminished\": 23476, \"\\u0120acknowledges\": 23477, \"\\u0120Kills\": 23478, \"\\u0120microw\": 23479, \"\\u0120Hera\": 23480, \"\\u0120seniors\": 23481, \"\\u0120whereby\": 23482, \"Hop\": 23483, \"atron\": 23484, \"\\u0120unavailable\": 23485, \"\\u0120Nate\": 23486, \"\\u0120480\": 23487, \"\\u0120slated\": 23488, \"\\u0120Rebecca\": 23489, \"\\u0120Battery\": 23490, \"\\u0120grammar\": 23491, \"\\u0120headset\": 23492, \"\\u0120cursor\": 23493, \"\\u0120excluding\": 23494, \"anye\": 23495, \"aundering\": 23496, \"ebin\": 23497, \"\\u0120feasible\": 23498, \"\\u0120Publishing\": 23499, \"\\u0120Labs\": 23500, \"\\u0120Cliff\": 23501, \"\\u0120Ferrari\": 23502, \"\\u0120pac\": 23503, \"visible\": 23504, \"marked\": 23505, \"pell\": 23506, \"\\u0120polite\": 23507, \"\\u0120staggering\": 23508, \"\\u0120Galactic\": 23509, \"\\u0120superst\": 23510, \"\\u0120paran\": 23511, \"\\u0120Officers\": 23512, \"\\u00e3\\u0122\\u0123\": 23513, \"\\u0120specifics\": 23514, \"ulus\": 23515, \"239\": 23516, \"\\u0120Paste\": 23517, \"AMP\": 23518, \"\\u0120Panama\": 23519, \"\\u0120Delete\": 23520, \"anguard\": 23521, \"restrial\": 23522, \"\\u0120heroic\": 23523, \"\\u0120Dy\": 23524, \"\\u00d8\\u00a7\\u00d9\\u0126\": 23525, \"\\u0120incumbent\": 23526, \"\\u0120crunch\": 23527, \"tro\": 23528, \"\\u0120scoop\": 23529, \"\\u0120blogger\": 23530, \"\\u0120sellers\": 23531, \"uren\": 23532, \"\\u0120medicines\": 23533, \"\\u0120Caps\": 23534, \"\\u0120Animation\": 23535, \"oxy\": 23536, \"\\u0120outward\": 23537, \"\\u0120inquiries\": 23538, \"229\": 23539, \"\\u0120psychologist\": 23540, \"\\u0120Sask\": 23541, \"evil\": 23542, \"\\u0120contaminated\": 23543, \"\\u00e3\\u0124\\u00a8\": 23544, \"herence\": 23545, \"\\u0120branded\": 23546, \"\\u0120Abdul\": 23547, \"zh\": 23548, \"\\u0120paragraphs\": 23549, \"\\u0120mins\": 23550, \"\\u0120correlated\": 23551, \"erb\": 23552, \"\\u0120impart\": 23553, \"\\u0120milestone\": 23554, \"\\u0120Solutions\": 23555, \"otle\": 23556, \"\\u0120undercover\": 23557, \"\\u0120marched\": 23558, \"\\u0120Chargers\": 23559, \"fax\": 23560, \"\\u0120Secrets\": 23561, \"\\u0120ruth\": 23562, \"weather\": 23563, \"\\u0120feminine\": 23564, \"\\u0120sham\": 23565, \"\\u0120prestigious\": 23566, \"iggins\": 23567, \"\\u0120sung\": 23568, \"history\": 23569, \"ettle\": 23570, \"ggie\": 23571, \"\\u0120outdated\": 23572, \"oland\": 23573, \"\\u0120perceptions\": 23574, \"\\u0120Session\": 23575, \"\\u0120Dodgers\": 23576, \"uj\": 23577, \"\\u0120END\": 23578, \"Doc\": 23579, \"\\u0120deficiency\": 23580, \"Grand\": 23581, \"\\u0120Joker\": 23582, \"\\u0120retrospect\": 23583, \"\\u0120diagnostic\": 23584, \"\\u0120harmless\": 23585, \"\\u0120rogue\": 23586, \"\\u0120Aval\": 23587, \"Equ\": 23588, \"\\u0120transc\": 23589, \"\\u0120Robertson\": 23590, \"\\u0120Depending\": 23591, \"\\u0120Burns\": 23592, \"ivo\": 23593, \"\\u0120hostility\": 23594, \"Features\": 23595, \"\\u0135\\u013a\": 23596, \"\\u0120discomfort\": 23597, \"\\u0120LCD\": 23598, \"specified\": 23599, \"\\u0120Expect\": 23600, \"340\": 23601, \"\\u0120imperative\": 23602, \"\\u0120Regular\": 23603, \"Chinese\": 23604, \"\\u0120statewide\": 23605, \"\\u0120symm\": 23606, \"\\u0120loops\": 23607, \"\\u0120autumn\": 23608, \"Nick\": 23609, \"\\u0120shaping\": 23610, \"\\u0120quot\": 23611, \"\\u0120cherry\": 23612, \"\\u0120Crossref\": 23613, \"\\u00e8\\u00a6\\u013c\\u00e9\\u0128\\u0134\": 23614, \"Standard\": 23615, \"heed\": 23616, \"\\u0120Dell\": 23617, \"\\u0120Vietnamese\": 23618, \"\\u0120ost\": 23619, \"\\u0120Valkyrie\": 23620, \"OA\": 23621, \"Assad\": 23622, \"\\u0120rebound\": 23623, \"\\u0120Traffic\": 23624, \"places\": 23625, \"\\u00e6\\u013a\": 23626, \"\\u0120Buc\": 23627, \"172\": 23628, \"\\u0120shelters\": 23629, \"\\u0120insisting\": 23630, \"\\u0120Certainly\": 23631, \"\\u0120Kenneth\": 23632, \"\\u0120TCP\": 23633, \"\\u0120penal\": 23634, \"\\u0120Replay\": 23635, \"heard\": 23636, \"\\u0120dialect\": 23637, \"iza\": 23638, \"\\u0120FY\": 23639, \"itcher\": 23640, \"\\u0120DL\": 23641, \"\\u0120spiral\": 23642, \"\\u0120quarterbacks\": 23643, \"\\u0120hull\": 23644, \"\\u0120google\": 23645, \"\\u0120todd\": 23646, \"\\u0120Sterling\": 23647, \"\\u0120Plate\": 23648, \"\\u0120spying\": 23649, \"mbol\": 23650, \"\\u0120Realm\": 23651, \"\\u0120Proced\": 23652, \"\\u0120Crash\": 23653, \"\\u0120terminate\": 23654, \"\\u0120protesting\": 23655, \"Center\": 23656, \"guided\": 23657, \"\\u0120uncover\": 23658, \"\\u0120boycott\": 23659, \"\\u0120realizes\": 23660, \"sound\": 23661, \"\\u0120pretending\": 23662, \"\\u0120Vas\": 23663, \"1980\": 23664, \"\\u0120framed\": 23665, \"\\u0120139\": 23666, \"\\u0120descended\": 23667, \"\\u0120rehabilitation\": 23668, \"\\u0120borrowing\": 23669, \"\\u0120Buch\": 23670, \"\\u0120blur\": 23671, \"Ron\": 23672, \"\\u0120Frozen\": 23673, \"enza\": 23674, \"Chief\": 23675, \"\\u0120Poor\": 23676, \"\\u0120translates\": 23677, \"MIN\": 23678, \"\\u0120212\": 23679, \"JECT\": 23680, \"\\u0120erupted\": 23681, \"\\u0120successes\": 23682, \"SEC\": 23683, \"\\u0120plague\": 23684, \"\\u0120gems\": 23685, \"doms\": 23686, \"\\u0120stretches\": 23687, \"\\u0120Spy\": 23688, \"\\u0120storytelling\": 23689, \"Credit\": 23690, \"\\u0120Push\": 23691, \"\\u0120traction\": 23692, \"\\u0120ineffective\": 23693, \"\\u0120Luna\": 23694, \"\\u0120tapes\": 23695, \"\\u0120analytics\": 23696, \"ercise\": 23697, \"\\u0120programmes\": 23698, \"\\u0120Carbon\": 23699, \"\\u0120behold\": 23700, \"heavy\": 23701, \"\\u0120Conservation\": 23702, \"\\u0120FIR\": 23703, \"\\u0120sack\": 23704, \"termin\": 23705, \"ricks\": 23706, \"\\u0120housed\": 23707, \"\\u0120unusually\": 23708, \"Ice\": 23709, \"\\u0120executing\": 23710, \"\\u0120Moroc\": 23711, \"eday\": 23712, \"\\u0120editions\": 23713, \"\\u0120smarter\": 23714, \"\\u0120BA\": 23715, \"\\u0120outlaw\": 23716, \"\\u0120vanished\": 23717, \"iba\": 23718, \"ALSE\": 23719, \"\\u0120Silva\": 23720, \"238\": 23721, \"Could\": 23722, \"\\u0120philosopher\": 23723, \"\\u0120evacuated\": 23724, \"Secret\": 23725, \"142\": 23726, \"\\u0120visas\": 23727, \"\\u00e3\\u0124\\u00ac\": 23728, \"\\u0120Malt\": 23729, \"\\u0120Clearly\": 23730, \"\\u0120Niger\": 23731, \"\\u0120Cairo\": 23732, \"\\u0120Fist\": 23733, \"380\": 23734, \"\\u0120XML\": 23735, \"auto\": 23736, \"itant\": 23737, \"\\u0120reinforced\": 23738, \"Record\": 23739, \"\\u0120Survivor\": 23740, \"GHz\": 23741, \"\\u0120screws\": 23742, \"parents\": 23743, \"\\u0120oceans\": 23744, \"mares\": 23745, \"\\u0120brakes\": 23746, \"vasive\": 23747, \"\\u0120hello\": 23748, \"\\u0120SIM\": 23749, \"rimp\": 23750, \"\\u0120ore\": 23751, \"\\u0120Armour\": 23752, \"247\": 23753, \"\\u0120terrific\": 23754, \"\\u0120tones\": 23755, \"141\": 23756, \"\\u0120Minutes\": 23757, \"Episode\": 23758, \"\\u0120curves\": 23759, \"\\u0120inflammatory\": 23760, \"\\u0120batting\": 23761, \"\\u0120Beautiful\": 23762, \"Lay\": 23763, \"\\u0120unpop\": 23764, \"vable\": 23765, \"\\u0120riots\": 23766, \"\\u0120Tactics\": 23767, \"baugh\": 23768, \"\\u0120Cock\": 23769, \"\\u0120orgasm\": 23770, \"\\u0120Sas\": 23771, \"\\u0120constructor\": 23772, \"etz\": 23773, \"Gov\": 23774, \"\\u0120antagon\": 23775, \"\\u0120theat\": 23776, \"\\u0120deeds\": 23777, \"hao\": 23778, \"cuts\": 23779, \"\\u0120McCl\": 23780, \"\\u0120um\": 23781, \"\\u0120Scientists\": 23782, \"\\u0120grassroots\": 23783, \"yssey\": 23784, \"\\\"]=>\": 23785, \"\\u0120surfaced\": 23786, \"\\u0120shades\": 23787, \"\\u0120neighbours\": 23788, \"\\u0120advertis\": 23789, \"oya\": 23790, \"\\u0120merged\": 23791, \"Upon\": 23792, \"\\u0120gad\": 23793, \"\\u0120anticipate\": 23794, \"Anyway\": 23795, \"\\u0120slogan\": 23796, \"\\u0120disrespect\": 23797, \"Iran\": 23798, \"\\u0120TB\": 23799, \"acted\": 23800, \"\\u0120subpoen\": 23801, \"mediately\": 23802, \"OOOO\": 23803, \"\\u0120waiver\": 23804, \"\\u0120vulnerabilities\": 23805, \"ottesville\": 23806, \"\\u0120Huffington\": 23807, \"Josh\": 23808, \"\\u0120DH\": 23809, \"Monday\": 23810, \"\\u0120Ellen\": 23811, \"Know\": 23812, \"xon\": 23813, \"items\": 23814, \"228\": 23815, \"\\u0120fills\": 23816, \"\\u0120Nike\": 23817, \"\\u0120cumulative\": 23818, \"andals\": 23819, \"Ir\": 23820, \"\\u0120\\u00ec\": 23821, \"\\u0120friction\": 23822, \"igator\": 23823, \"\\u0120scans\": 23824, \"\\u0120Vienna\": 23825, \"ldom\": 23826, \"\\u0120performers\": 23827, \"Prim\": 23828, \"\\u0120bidding\": 23829, \"Mur\": 23830, \"\\u0120leaned\": 23831, \"\\u0120Prix\": 23832, \"alks\": 23833, \"\\u0120[\\u00e2\\u0122\\u00a6]\": 23834, \"\\u0120Twitch\": 23835, \"\\u0120Developer\": 23836, \"\\u0120Gir\": 23837, \"\\u0120callback\": 23838, \"Abstract\": 23839, \"\\u0120accustomed\": 23840, \"\\u0120freedoms\": 23841, \"\\u0120PG\": 23842, \"uracy\": 23843, \"\\u0120lump\": 23844, \"isman\": 23845, \",,,,\": 23846, \"1992\": 23847, \"\\u0120RED\": 23848, \"\\u0120worm\": 23849, \"Match\": 23850, \"\\u0120Platinum\": 23851, \"IJ\": 23852, \"\\u0120Owner\": 23853, \"Trivia\": 23854, \"compl\": 23855, \"\\u0120newborn\": 23856, \"\\u0120fantas\": 23857, \"Own\": 23858, \"\\u01201959\": 23859, \"\\u0120sympath\": 23860, \"\\u0120ubiqu\": 23861, \"\\u0120outputs\": 23862, \"\\u0120allev\": 23863, \"\\u0120prag\": 23864, \"Kevin\": 23865, \"\\u0120favors\": 23866, \"\\u0120burial\": 23867, \"\\u0120nurt\": 23868, \"solete\": 23869, \"cache\": 23870, \"\\u0120156\": 23871, \"\\u0120unlocks\": 23872, \"techn\": 23873, \"Making\": 23874, \"\\u0120conquer\": 23875, \"adic\": 23876, \"\\u00e6\\u0138\": 23877, \"\\u0120elf\": 23878, \"\\u0120electorate\": 23879, \"\\u0120Kurds\": 23880, \"\\u0120Stack\": 23881, \"\\u0120Samurai\": 23882, \"\\u0120\\u00e2\\u013a\\u0127\": 23883, \"\\u0120{}\": 23884, \"\\u0120Said\": 23885, \"\\u0120Fallout\": 23886, \"\\u0120kindness\": 23887, \"\\u0120Customs\": 23888, \"\\u0120Boulevard\": 23889, \"\\u0120helicopters\": 23890, \"otics\": 23891, \"\\u0120Veget\": 23892, \"comment\": 23893, \"\\u0120criticised\": 23894, \"\\u0120polished\": 23895, \"\\u0120Remix\": 23896, \"\\u0120Cultural\": 23897, \"\\u0120recons\": 23898, \"\\u0120doi\": 23899, \"atem\": 23900, \"Screen\": 23901, \"\\u0120barred\": 23902, \"Comments\": 23903, \"\\u0120Generally\": 23904, \"\\u0120slap\": 23905, \"720\": 23906, \"Vari\": 23907, \"pine\": 23908, \"\\u0120empt\": 23909, \"\\u0120hats\": 23910, \"\\u0120Playing\": 23911, \"lab\": 23912, \"average\": 23913, \"forms\": 23914, \"\\u0120Cotton\": 23915, \"\\u0120cans\": 23916, \"\\u0120DON\": 23917, \"\\u0120Somalia\": 23918, \"Crypt\": 23919, \"\\u0120Increases\": 23920, \"Ever\": 23921, \"modern\": 23922, \"\\u0120surgeon\": 23923, \"3000\": 23924, \"\\u0120randomized\": 23925, \"================================================================\": 23926, \"Bern\": 23927, \"impl\": 23928, \"\\u0120COR\": 23929, \"\\u0120proclaim\": 23930, \"thouse\": 23931, \"\\u0120toes\": 23932, \"\\u0120ample\": 23933, \"\\u0120preserving\": 23934, \"\\u0120disbel\": 23935, \"grand\": 23936, \"Besides\": 23937, \"\\u0120silk\": 23938, \"\\u0120Pattern\": 23939, \"hm\": 23940, \"\\u0120enterprises\": 23941, \"\\u0120affidavit\": 23942, \"\\u0120Advisory\": 23943, \"\\u0120advertised\": 23944, \"\\u0120Religious\": 23945, \"sections\": 23946, \"psych\": 23947, \"\\u0120Fields\": 23948, \"aways\": 23949, \"\\u0120hashtag\": 23950, \"\\u0120Nightmare\": 23951, \"\\u0120vampire\": 23952, \"\\u0120forensic\": 23953, \"rossover\": 23954, \"nar\": 23955, \"\\u0120navy\": 23956, \"\\u0120vacant\": 23957, \"\\u0120Duel\": 23958, \"\\u0120hallway\": 23959, \"\\u0120facebook\": 23960, \"identally\": 23961, \"\\u0120NRA\": 23962, \"\\u0120matt\": 23963, \"\\u0120hurricane\": 23964, \"\\u0120Kirby\": 23965, \"\\u0120Puzzle\": 23966, \"\\u0120skirt\": 23967, \"oust\": 23968, \"dullah\": 23969, \"\\u0120analogy\": 23970, \"inion\": 23971, \"\\u0120tomatoes\": 23972, \"\\u0120NV\": 23973, \"\\u0120Peak\": 23974, \"\\u0120Meyer\": 23975, \"\\u0120appointments\": 23976, \"\\u0120masc\": 23977, \"\\u0120alley\": 23978, \"rehend\": 23979, \"\\u0120charities\": 23980, \"\\u0120undo\": 23981, \"\\u0120destinations\": 23982, \"\\u0120Testing\": 23983, \"\\\"></\": 23984, \"\\u0120destined\": 23985, \"\\u0120implements\": 23986, \"\\u0120Harold\": 23987, \"RECT\": 23988, \"\\u0120optimization\": 23989, \"\\u0120kilometres\": 23990, \"\\u0120cmd\": 23991, \"\\u0120impairment\": 23992, \"\\u0120unsuccessful\": 23993, \"\\u0120swiftly\": 23994, \"\\u0120Glasgow\": 23995, \"arten\": 23996, \"\\u0120Shares\": 23997, \"\\u0120Answer\": 23998, \"\\u0120Album\": 23999, \"\\u0120nutritional\": 24000, \"\\u00e3\\u0125\\u0138\": 24001, \"\\u0120Fut\": 24002, \"\\u0120bloc\": 24003, \"\\u0120NFC\": 24004, \"\\u0120wholesale\": 24005, \"\\u0120CW\": 24006, \"\\u0120neglected\": 24007, \"\\u0120launcher\": 24008, \"\\u0120announcements\": 24009, \"OULD\": 24010, \"comb\": 24011, \"\\u0120rotating\": 24012, \"\\u0120rests\": 24013, \"\\u0120Ticket\": 24014, \"chedel\": 24015, \"Lou\": 24016, \"\\u0120Vic\": 24017, \"\\u0120\\\"'\": 24018, \"\\u0120templates\": 24019, \"\\u0120replaces\": 24020, \"Arc\": 24021, \"::::\": 24022, \"\\u0120Gilbert\": 24023, \"\\u0120illnesses\": 24024, \"\\u0120schedules\": 24025, \"\\u0120heterosexual\": 24026, \"LINE\": 24027, \"\\u0120herein\": 24028, \"\\u0120coerc\": 24029, \"\\u0120decreasing\": 24030, \"\\u0120deportation\": 24031, \"sudo\": 24032, \"\\u0120Indigenous\": 24033, \"\\u0120weighs\": 24034, \"Along\": 24035, \"');\": 24036, \"\\u0120Bengals\": 24037, \"707\": 24038, \"\\u0120joints\": 24039, \"verts\": 24040, \"\\u0120149\": 24041, \"naire\": 24042, \"\\u0120simplest\": 24043, \"\\u0120lore\": 24044, \"1080\": 24045, \"fiction\": 24046, \"\\u0120Database\": 24047, \"\\u0120reservation\": 24048, \"\\u0120sou\": 24049, \"\\u0120sanctuary\": 24050, \"audio\": 24051, \"aple\": 24052, \"\\u0120vegetarian\": 24053, \"\\u0120anticipation\": 24054, \"micro\": 24055, \"\\u0120enduring\": 24056, \"\\u0120departed\": 24057, \"\\u0120sidewalk\": 24058, \"\\u0120prohibits\": 24059, \"\\u0120Font\": 24060, \"\\u0120compute\": 24061, \"\\u0120Sect\": 24062, \"\\u0120158\": 24063, \"Battle\": 24064, \"\\u0120bomber\": 24065, \"\\u0120distraction\": 24066, \"\\u0120endured\": 24067, \"\\u0120practitioners\": 24068, \"\\u0120disturbed\": 24069, \"\\u0120drank\": 24070, \"ordered\": 24071, \"\\u0120surprises\": 24072, \"seat\": 24073, \"Security\": 24074, \"\\u0120Wisdom\": 24075, \"ogo\": 24076, \"\\u0120subparagraph\": 24077, \"\\u0120Peninsula\": 24078, \"\\u0120Origins\": 24079, \"iren\": 24080, \"\\u0120Pav\": 24081, \"iggle\": 24082, \"\\u0120gratitude\": 24083, \"\\u0120Gravity\": 24084, \"overty\": 24085, \"iman\": 24086, \"ctr\": 24087, \"\\u0120Caesar\": 24088, \"could\": 24089, \"gem\": 24090, \"\\u0120skies\": 24091, \"\\u0120champ\": 24092, \"\\u0120agreeing\": 24093, \"Family\": 24094, \"Div\": 24095, \"176\": 24096, \"\\u0120messy\": 24097, \"umption\": 24098, \"Federal\": 24099, \"erno\": 24100, \"\\u0120Chat\": 24101, \"Beyond\": 24102, \"\\u0120devote\": 24103, \"\\u0120Walsh\": 24104, \"\\u0120dumped\": 24105, \"\\u0120accumulation\": 24106, \"stad\": 24107, \"hibition\": 24108, \"\\u0120smokers\": 24109, \"\\u0120inspector\": 24110, \"French\": 24111, \"issan\": 24112, \"\\u0120Vita\": 24113, \"\\u0120researching\": 24114, \"RAM\": 24115, \"\\u0120Celtics\": 24116, \"\\u0120cloak\": 24117, \"\\u0120Terra\": 24118, \"Mary\": 24119, \"sold\": 24120, \"\\u0120DOM\": 24121, \"mods\": 24122, \"Intel\": 24123, \"\\u0120multitude\": 24124, \"\\u0120Improved\": 24125, \"\\u0120reliance\": 24126, \"\\u0120artifact\": 24127, \"\\u0120alarming\": 24128, \"Prom\": 24129, \"hon\": 24130, \"TION\": 24131, \"medium\": 24132, \"\\u0120reflex\": 24133, \"\\u0120Excel\": 24134, \"\\u0120weakened\": 24135, \"163\": 24136, \"224\": 24137, \"\\u0120costumes\": 24138, \"\\u0120uniquely\": 24139, \"\\u0120sorrow\": 24140, \"\\u0120mansion\": 24141, \"wp\": 24142, \"\\u0120salv\": 24143, \"\\u0120Grove\": 24144, \"bsp\": 24145, \"\\u0120Sniper\": 24146, \"\\u0120Shipping\": 24147, \"\\u0120POW\": 24148, \"\\u0120undis\": 24149, \"\\u0120branding\": 24150, \"Girl\": 24151, \"\\u0120Ahmad\": 24152, \"\\u0120Lakes\": 24153, \"\\u0120Corey\": 24154, \"\\u0120inheritance\": 24155, \"enery\": 24156, \"\\u0120packing\": 24157, \"\\u0120Prest\": 24158, \"Dest\": 24159, \"FW\": 24160, \"\\u0120regulator\": 24161, \"locked\": 24162, \"\\u0120contested\": 24163, \"\\u0120Melissa\": 24164, \"\\u0120Duc\": 24165, \"\\u0120unpopular\": 24166, \"\\u0120stacked\": 24167, \"\\u01201917\": 24168, \"\\u0120yearly\": 24169, \"\\u0120stare\": 24170, \"\\u0120assessing\": 24171, \"\\u00c3\\u00b8\": 24172, \"\\u0120beverages\": 24173, \"\\u0120competitions\": 24174, \"\\u0120strengthening\": 24175, \"along\": 24176, \"\\u0120Lud\": 24177, \"\\u0120melted\": 24178, \"stanbul\": 24179, \"\\u0120bounty\": 24180, \"ENC\": 24181, \"\\u0120Lands\": 24182, \"\\u0120declares\": 24183, \"\\u0120customize\": 24184, \"\\u0120composite\": 24185, \"\\u00e3\\u0125\\u00ac\": 24186, \"CM\": 24187, \"ographics\": 24188, \"\\u0120Temp\": 24189, \"\\u0120contender\": 24190, \"\\u0120insign\": 24191, \"\\u0120LAN\": 24192, \"\\u0120disasters\": 24193, \"inspired\": 24194, \"\\u0120judgments\": 24195, \"ustainable\": 24196, \"ursion\": 24197, \"\\u0120variance\": 24198, \"\\u0120Ultimately\": 24199, \"\\u0120--------\": 24200, \"uador\": 24201, \"\\u0120RX\": 24202, \"\\u0120melting\": 24203, \"\\u0120Extended\": 24204, \"\\u0120Twe\": 24205, \"Major\": 24206, \"\\u0120Bil\": 24207, \"\\u0120syrup\": 24208, \"quick\": 24209, \"\\u0120Holder\": 24210, \"\\u0120innocence\": 24211, \"ULE\": 24212, \"\\u0120Might\": 24213, \"9999\": 24214, \"\\u0120fal\": 24215, \"\\u0120continuity\": 24216, \"\\u01201953\": 24217, \"\\u0120BS\": 24218, \"still\": 24219, \"Lat\": 24220, \"\\u0120Abuse\": 24221, \"\\u0120unsupported\": 24222, \"xxxxxxxx\": 24223, \"\\u0120institute\": 24224, \"\\u0120fragment\": 24225, \"\\u0120Pep\": 24226, \"Western\": 24227, \"\\u0120Cause\": 24228, \"\\u0120Frag\": 24229, \"\\u0120Ars\": 24230, \"\\u00e0\\u00a5\": 24231, \"astics\": 24232, \"\\u0120bishop\": 24233, \"\\u0120crosses\": 24234, \"\\u0120154\": 24235, \"\\u0120Upgrade\": 24236, \"\\u0120mitigate\": 24237, \"\\u0120Raymond\": 24238, \"Mods\": 24239, \"\\u0120tomato\": 24240, \"\\u0120stumbled\": 24241, \"\\u0120differs\": 24242, \"Initial\": 24243, \"\\u0120Raspberry\": 24244, \"\\u0120ignores\": 24245, \"\\u0120tant\": 24246, \"\\u00c3\\u0142\": 24247, \"\\u0120relay\": 24248, \"\\u0120bisexual\": 24249, \"\\u0120confession\": 24250, \"\\u0120dement\": 24251, \"inas\": 24252, \"\\u0120Heather\": 24253, \"platform\": 24254, \"driving\": 24255, \"bourg\": 24256, \"\\u0120Mush\": 24257, \"\\u0120hyster\": 24258, \"Details\": 24259, \"\\u0120drift\": 24260, \"\\u0120Wald\": 24261, \"\\u0120Luckily\": 24262, \"orf\": 24263, \"\\u0120expire\": 24264, \"\\u0120Punch\": 24265, \"zyme\": 24266, \"gold\": 24267, \"\\u0120unpaid\": 24268, \"\\u0120Trent\": 24269, \"\\u0120unarmed\": 24270, \"\\u0120illicit\": 24271, \"\\u0120Tottenham\": 24272, \"\\u0120smash\": 24273, \"International\": 24274, \"inker\": 24275, \"\\u0120sting\": 24276, \"\\u0120Saddam\": 24277, \"\\u0120ART\": 24278, \"\\u0120truths\": 24279, \"birth\": 24280, \"\\u0120sober\": 24281, \"\\u0120Nit\": 24282, \"\\u0120ib\": 24283, \"\\u0120usable\": 24284, \"\\u0120stacks\": 24285, \"\\u0120Sylv\": 24286, \"\\u0120northeast\": 24287, \"\\u0120domination\": 24288, \"\\u0120Mour\": 24289, \"ENSE\": 24290, \"\\u0120Measure\": 24291, \"\\u0120programmer\": 24292, \"\\u0120<-\": 24293, \"182\": 24294, \"\\u0120Condition\": 24295, \"\\u0120backyard\": 24296, \"irling\": 24297, \"\\u0120Jeb\": 24298, \"\\u0120Creed\": 24299, \"\\u0120Hang\": 24300, \"\\u0120COMP\": 24301, \"FER\": 24302, \"\\u0120Ish\": 24303, \"\\u0120detectives\": 24304, \"---------------\": 24305, \"\\u0120Messenger\": 24306, \"\\u0120looph\": 24307, \"\\u0120gateway\": 24308, \"151\": 24309, \"\\u0120Materials\": 24310, \"\\u0120DT\": 24311, \"\\u0120doomed\": 24312, \"odo\": 24313, \"\\u0120slices\": 24314, \"\\u0120emailed\": 24315, \"\\u0120Perl\": 24316, \"\\u0120renov\": 24317, \"UTH\": 24318, \"odynam\": 24319, \"\\u0120Southwest\": 24320, \"getic\": 24321, \"\\u0120TPP\": 24322, \"\\u0120optimism\": 24323, \"\\u0120Tow\": 24324, \"ulators\": 24325, \"protected\": 24326, \"yles\": 24327, \"\\u00c2\\u00ab\": 24328, \"\\u0120exile\": 24329, \"env\": 24330, \"Prop\": 24331, \"\\u0120Zimmerman\": 24332, \"\\u00d9\\u0130\": 24333, \"Ca\": 24334, \"omaly\": 24335, \"\\u00e3\\u0125\\u0128\": 24336, \"\\u0120railroad\": 24337, \"Lee\": 24338, \"232\": 24339, \"\\u0120replicate\": 24340, \"\\u0120comfortably\": 24341, \"actly\": 24342, \"\\u0120rav\": 24343, \"\\u0120telescope\": 24344, \"\\u0120honesty\": 24345, \"\\u0120Pepper\": 24346, \"\\u0120Bring\": 24347, \"\\u0120richest\": 24348, \"\\u0120outdoors\": 24349, \"\\u0120halls\": 24350, \"\\u0120contend\": 24351, \"ISE\": 24352, \"\\u0120submitting\": 24353, \"\\u0120naive\": 24354, \"arations\": 24355, \"\\u0120143\": 24356, \"\\u0120poised\": 24357, \"responsible\": 24358, \"\\u0120socks\": 24359, \"\\u0120Skull\": 24360, \"Question\": 24361, \"\\u0120discoveries\": 24362, \"Joined\": 24363, \"\\u0120Enemies\": 24364, \"\\u0120Wireless\": 24365, \"\\u0120Revenge\": 24366, \"\\u0120puzzles\": 24367, \"\\u0120ceased\": 24368, \"290\": 24369, \"criptions\": 24370, \"\\u0120Console\": 24371, \"\\u0120boiling\": 24372, \"\\u0120discrep\": 24373, \"\\u0120deduction\": 24374, \"\\u0120arsenal\": 24375, \"XXXX\": 24376, \"\\u0120Amsterdam\": 24377, \"roximately\": 24378, \"\\u0120Shane\": 24379, \"\\u0120posing\": 24380, \"\\u0120ACLU\": 24381, \"\\u0120Companies\": 24382, \"\\u0120theology\": 24383, \"\\u0120Ug\": 24384, \"quarter\": 24385, \"\\u0120Hank\": 24386, \"Coin\": 24387, \"\\u0120Lv\": 24388, \"\\u0120allegation\": 24389, \"\\u0120Avoid\": 24390, \"\\u0120indefinitely\": 24391, \"\\u0120commodities\": 24392, \"\\u0120brig\": 24393, \"\\u0120Manit\": 24394, \"\\u0120tenth\": 24395, \"method\": 24396, \"\\u0120Knicks\": 24397, \"\\u0120\\u00e2\\u0122\\u0130\": 24398, \"\\u0120invoked\": 24399, \"Dial\": 24400, \"ARA\": 24401, \"\\u0120caucus\": 24402, \"227\": 24403, \"\\u0120Jab\": 24404, \"\\u0120ounces\": 24405, \"bay\": 24406, \"\\u0120buddy\": 24407, \"fan\": 24408, \"234\": 24409, \"\\u0120Hil\": 24410, \"adh\": 24411, \"\\u0120TY\": 24412, \"\\u0120IND\": 24413, \"\\u01201939\": 24414, \"\\u0120iteration\": 24415, \"\\u0120Gonzalez\": 24416, \"\\u0120Vert\": 24417, \"\\u0120IO\": 24418, \"emb\": 24419, \"rera\": 24420, \"ench\": 24421, \"\\u0120Requirements\": 24422, \"\\u0120Wins\": 24423, \"\\u0120livestock\": 24424, \"hours\": 24425, \"\\\"\\u00e2\\u0122\\u00a6\": 24426, \"bral\": 24427, \"Marg\": 24428, \"\\u0120Done\": 24429, \"\\u0120wasting\": 24430, \"inged\": 24431, \"groups\": 24432, \"\\u0120wishing\": 24433, \"\\u0120Tumblr\": 24434, \"\\u0120tapping\": 24435, \"\\u0120nationalism\": 24436, \"\\u0120Byr\": 24437, \"\\u0120squares\": 24438, \"\\u0120Actions\": 24439, \"\\u00e3\\u0125\\u00a5\": 24440, \"Inside\": 24441, \"debug\": 24442, \"\\u0120append\": 24443, \"\\u0120stubborn\": 24444, \"\\u0120Cind\": 24445, \"Tell\": 24446, \"\\u0120tearing\": 24447, \"\\u0120Rey\": 24448, \"orc\": 24449, \"\\u0120Dayton\": 24450, \"\\u0120NH\": 24451, \"\\u0120Madness\": 24452, \"Charl\": 24453, \"\\u0120Morrison\": 24454, \"filter\": 24455, \"\\u0120accuse\": 24456, \"\\u0120./\": 24457, \"\\u0120torrent\": 24458, \"\\u0120declines\": 24459, \"gallery\": 24460, \"Mine\": 24461, \"\\u0120negotiation\": 24462, \"\\u0120Bashar\": 24463, \"opia\": 24464, \"1993\": 24465, \"emort\": 24466, \"\\u0120Novel\": 24467, \"\\u0120Fang\": 24468, \"ersive\": 24469, \"\\u0120Instant\": 24470, \"\\u0120roller\": 24471, \"Around\": 24472, \"\\u0120Elections\": 24473, \"Games\": 24474, \"\\u0120inexpensive\": 24475, \"\\u0120wors\": 24476, \"\\u0120vul\": 24477, \"\\u0120Hole\": 24478, 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\"007\": 25816, \"akedown\": 25817, \"\\u0120vocabulary\": 25818, \"Reilly\": 25819, \"\\u0120caval\": 25820, \"gars\": 25821, \"\\u0120suppressed\": 25822, \"\\u0120SET\": 25823, \"\\u0120Johns\": 25824, \"\\u0120warp\": 25825, \"broken\": 25826, \"\\u0120statues\": 25827, \"\\u0120advocated\": 25828, \"\\u0120275\": 25829, \"\\u0120peril\": 25830, \"omorph\": 25831, \"\\u0120Femin\": 25832, \"perfect\": 25833, \"\\u0120hatch\": 25834, \"Lib\": 25835, \"512\": 25836, \"\\u0120lifelong\": 25837, \"313\": 25838, \"\\u0120cheeks\": 25839, \"\\u0120numbered\": 25840, \"\\u0120Mug\": 25841, \"Body\": 25842, \"ravel\": 25843, \"Weight\": 25844, \"\\u0120Jak\": 25845, \"\\u0120Heath\": 25846, \"\\u0120kissing\": 25847, \"\\u0120JUST\": 25848, \"\\u0120waving\": 25849, \"upload\": 25850, \"\\u0120insider\": 25851, \"\\u0120Progressive\": 25852, \"\\u0120Filter\": 25853, \"tta\": 25854, \"\\u0120Beam\": 25855, \"\\u0120violently\": 25856, \"ipation\": 25857, \"\\u0120skepticism\": 25858, 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\"atibility\": 25901, \"Topics\": 25902, \"\\u0120reimburse\": 25903, \"\\u0120HM\": 25904, \"\\u0120Deg\": 25905, \"\\u0120thief\": 25906, \"yet\": 25907, \"ogenesis\": 25908, \"leaning\": 25909, \"\\u0120Kol\": 25910, \"\\u0120Basketball\": 25911, \"\\u0120fi\": 25912, \"\\u0120Seeing\": 25913, \"\\u0120recycling\": 25914, \"\\u0120[-\": 25915, \"Congress\": 25916, \"\\u0120lectures\": 25917, \"Psy\": 25918, \"\\u0120nep\": 25919, \"\\u0120maid\": 25920, \"\\u0120oriented\": 25921, \"AX\": 25922, \"\\u0120respectful\": 25923, \"rene\": 25924, \"flush\": 25925, \"\\u0120Unloaded\": 25926, \"request\": 25927, \"grid\": 25928, \"\\u0120Alternatively\": 25929, \"\\u0120Hugo\": 25930, \"\\u0120decree\": 25931, \"\\u0120Buddhism\": 25932, \"andum\": 25933, \"Android\": 25934, \"\\u0120Congo\": 25935, \"\\u0120Joyce\": 25936, \"\\u0120acknowledging\": 25937, \"hesive\": 25938, \"\\u0120Tomorrow\": 25939, \"\\u0120Hiro\": 25940, \"thren\": 25941, \"\\u0120Maced\": 25942, \"\\u0120hoax\": 25943, \"\\u0120Increased\": 25944, \"\\u0120Pradesh\": 25945, \"Wild\": 25946, \"______\": 25947, \"161\": 25948, \"\\u0120aunt\": 25949, \"\\u0120distributing\": 25950, \"\\u0120Tucker\": 25951, \"\\u0120SSL\": 25952, \"\\u0120Wolves\": 25953, \"Building\": 25954, \"oult\": 25955, \"\\u0120Luo\": 25956, \"\\u0120Yas\": 25957, \"\\u0120Spir\": 25958, \"\\u0120Shape\": 25959, \"\\u0120Cambod\": 25960, \"\\u0120IPv\": 25961, \"\\u0120ml\": 25962, \"\\u0120extrad\": 25963, \"390\": 25964, \"\\u0120Penny\": 25965, \"dream\": 25966, \"\\u0120stationed\": 25967, \"optional\": 25968, \"eworthy\": 25969, \".</\": 25970, \"\\u0120undertaking\": 25971, \"\\u0120chickens\": 25972, \"\\u0120stimuli\": 25973, \"\\u0120Else\": 25974, \"igators\": 25975, \"\\u0120Beginning\": 25976, \"ctory\": 25977, \"\\u0120prepares\": 25978, \"\\u0120delta\": 25979, \"\\u0120vicinity\": 25980, \"tool\": 25981, \"\\u0120workshops\": 25982, \"MHz\": 25983, \"\\u0120accusation\": 25984, \"\\u0120histories\": 25985, \"ropolis\": 25986, \"\\u0120Churchill\": 25987, \"\\u0120neon\": 25988, \"\\u0120baff\": 25989, \"dies\": 25990, \"maybe\": 25991, \"\\u0120\\u00e8\\u00a3\\u0131\\u00e8\\u00a6\\u013c\\u00e9\\u0128\\u0134\": 25992, \"\\u0120symptom\": 25993, \"ECH\": 25994, \"\\u0120Manuel\": 25995, \"\\u0120banana\": 25996, \"\\u0120HB\": 25997, \"\\u0120****\": 25998, \"\\u0120Koreans\": 25999, \"coll\": 26000, \"FB\": 26001, \"\\u0120praying\": 26002, \"\\u0120Cannot\": 26003, \"\\u0120Mile\": 26004, \"\\u0120embracing\": 26005, \"\\u0120Silk\": 26006, \"393\": 26007, \"oters\": 26008, \"FD\": 26009, \"\\u0120daylight\": 26010, \"alias\": 26011, \"\\u0120Brigade\": 26012, \"\\u0120Hannah\": 26013, \"\\u0120clergy\": 26014, \"\\u0120southeast\": 26015, \"\\u0120alcoholic\": 26016, \"\\u0120proposes\": 26017, \"livion\": 26018, \"\\u0120calculating\": 26019, \"\\u0120stimulate\": 26020, \"\\u0120splitting\": 26021, \"eight\": 26022, \"\\u0120Indy\": 26023, \"plays\": 26024, \"\\u0120Pik\": 26025, \"\\u0120domest\": 26026, \"\\u0120forgiveness\": 26027, \"\\u0120Rings\": 26028, \"patient\": 26029, \"kinson\": 26030, \"Mont\": 26031, \"igible\": 26032, \";\\\"\": 26033, \"\\u0120periodically\": 26034, \"ammad\": 26035, \"\\u0120Britt\": 26036, \"pard\": 26037, \"\\u0120arbitration\": 26038, \"\\u0120Schneider\": 26039, \"\\u0120Corporate\": 26040, \"\\u0120Maya\": 26041, \"\\u0120snakes\": 26042, \"aum\": 26043, \"\\u0120blasted\": 26044, \"\\u0120mysteries\": 26045, \"\\u0120revive\": 26046, \"ocamp\": 26047, \"\\u0120Dodge\": 26048, \"\\u0120Opera\": 26049, \"279\": 26050, \"\\u0120orphan\": 26051, \"\\u0120specifies\": 26052, \"\\u0120Mets\": 26053, \"Duration\": 26054, \"Hen\": 26055, \"\\u0120fireworks\": 26056, \"\\u0120prosecute\": 26057, \"\\u0120Tillerson\": 26058, \"dp\": 26059, \"usage\": 26060, \"liness\": 26061, \"\\u0120Debian\": 26062, \"\\u0120224\": 26063, \"rises\": 26064, \"\\u0120Infect\": 26065, \"atra\": 26066, \"\\u0120RR\": 26067, \"\\u0120Lor\": 26068, \"diff\": 26069, \"\\u0120Charleston\": 26070, \"\\u0120acoustic\": 26071, \"\\u0120amuse\": 26072, \"330\": 26073, \"\\u0120cer\": 26074, \"\\u0120Tac\": 26075, \"\\u0120[+\": 26076, \"\\u0120cardiac\": 26077, \"\\u0120Restaurant\": 26078, \"ergy\": 26079, \"\\u0120fuzz\": 26080, \"\\u0120bites\": 26081, \"\\u0120hazardous\": 26082, \"\\u0120brighter\": 26083, \"rans\": 26084, \"\\u0120Stephanie\": 26085, \"extra\": 26086, \"RET\": 26087, \"\\u0120Christine\": 26088, \"\\u0120Sue\": 26089, \"statement\": 26090, \"\\u0120bolster\": 26091, \"\\u0120antit\": 26092, \"Radio\": 26093, \"BIT\": 26094, \"\\u00e3\\u0124\\u00b0\": 26095, \"\\u0120visions\": 26096, \"\\u0120Concept\": 26097, \"\\u0120inline\": 26098, \"\\u0120Philosophy\": 26099, \"isans\": 26100, \"\\u0120Irving\": 26101, \"\\u00c3\\u00a3\": 26102, \"taking\": 26103, \"\\u0120inconsist\": 26104, \"\\u0120Kumar\": 26105, \"\\u0120lig\": 26106, \"\\u0120Schumer\": 26107, \"\\u0120Regulations\": 26108, \"\\u0120Hz\": 26109, \"thro\": 26110, \"\\u0120Voldemort\": 26111, \"\\u0120MED\": 26112, \"\\u0120Frederick\": 26113, \"Pad\": 26114, \"221\": 26115, \"\\u0120alleging\": 26116, \"\\u0120Communication\": 26117, \"\\u0120167\": 26118, \"\\u0120forecasts\": 26119, \"\\u0120spiders\": 26120, \"Organ\": 26121, \"\\u0120Participants\": 26122, \"\\u0120Ops\": 26123, \"design\": 26124, \"Close\": 26125, \"\\u0120facto\": 26126, \"\\u0120bombers\": 26127, \"resistant\": 26128, \"ategories\": 26129, \"School\": 26130, \"\\u0120homework\": 26131, \"\\u0120corro\": 26132, \"Tuesday\": 26133, \"\\u0120Brendan\": 26134, \"\\u0120MX\": 26135, \"\\u0120TS\": 26136, \"\\u0120Stri\": 26137, \"\\u0120stakeholders\": 26138, \"\\u0120Millennium\": 26139, \"\\u0120transferring\": 26140, \"Jud\": 26141, \"\\u0120tac\": 26142, \"\\u01201600\": 26143, \"\\u0120SDK\": 26144, \"rb\": 26145, \"\\u0120interpretations\": 26146, \"\\u0120SG\": 26147, \"\\u0120upstairs\": 26148, \"\\u0120Harvest\": 26149, \"\\u0120vagina\": 26150, \"\\u0120ingest\": 26151, \"xf\": 26152, \"\\u0120Orion\": 26153, \"\\u0120Joey\": 26154, \"\\u0120sandwic\": 26155, \"\\u0120immortal\": 26156, \"\\u0120flipped\": 26157, \"ortex\": 26158, \"threatening\": 26159, \"\\u0120sniper\": 26160, \"\\u0120converts\": 26161, \"\\u0120installations\": 26162, \"\\u0120Bulgar\": 26163, \"orsche\": 26164, \"mails\": 26165, \"\\u0120lure\": 26166, \"\\u0120narrowly\": 26167, \"\\u0120grenade\": 26168, \"\\u0120Ging\": 26169, \"\\u0120underwear\": 26170, \"--------------\": 26171, \"\\u0120chased\": 26172, \"\\u0120VAL\": 26173, \"\\u0120parenting\": 26174, \"\\u0120Hamb\": 26175, \"\\u0120Blaz\": 26176, \"\\u0120anarchist\": 26177, \"\\u0120Median\": 26178, \"\\u0120Programs\": 26179, \"\\u00ce\\u00bd\": 26180, \"\\u0120obj\": 26181, \"\\u0120Nokia\": 26182, \"orman\": 26183, \"anqu\": 26184, \"atism\": 26185, \"opa\": 26186, \"\\u0120fulfilling\": 26187, \"\\u0120puppy\": 26188, \"\\u0120entit\": 26189, \"\\u0120Sebastian\": 26190, \"\\u0120shooters\": 26191, \"\\u0120richer\": 26192, \"\\u00e8\\u00a1\": 26193, \"\\u0120tempted\": 26194, \"\\u0120ATT\": 26195, \"\\u0120CV\": 26196, \"\\u0120tore\": 26197, \"Resource\": 26198, \"\\u0120Devils\": 26199, \"408\": 26200, \"inational\": 26201, \"\\u0120assurance\": 26202, \"\\u0120Darren\": 26203, \"\\u0120whichever\": 26204, \"posure\": 26205, \"\\u0120fury\": 26206, \"Stock\": 26207, \"\\u0120universally\": 26208, \"response\": 26209, \"\\u0120oak\": 26210, \"\\u0120workload\": 26211, \"\\u0120Corner\": 26212, \"eele\": 26213, \"\\\"...\": 26214, \"\\u0120deprived\": 26215, \"kowski\": 26216, \"\\u0120casts\": 26217, \"\\u0120affiliation\": 26218, \"\\u0120Ach\": 26219, \"\\u0120Asked\": 26220, \"athe\": 26221, \"\\u0120lact\": 26222, \"\\u0120Thu\": 26223, \"rm\": 26224, \"\\u0120airlines\": 26225, \"\\u0120notions\": 26226, \"Format\": 26227, \"\\u0120FAA\": 26228, \"\\u00e3\\u0125\\u012c\": 26229, \"driver\": 26230, \"\\u0120transcend\": 26231, \"Settings\": 26232, \"\\u0120Prosecut\": 26233, \"\\u0120spinal\": 26234, \"\\u0120defaults\": 26235, \"FK\": 26236, \"\\u0120prefers\": 26237, \"rendered\": 26238, \"thus\": 26239, \"film\": 26240, \"\\u0120tiger\": 26241, \"\\u0120Spicer\": 26242, \"recogn\": 26243, \"\\u0120Rugby\": 26244, \"Network\": 26245, \"\\u0120pity\": 26246, \"\\u0120compartment\": 26247, \"casters\": 26248, \"\\u0120Monroe\": 26249, \"\\u0120720\": 26250, \"\\u0120corrections\": 26251, \"\\u0120dopamine\": 26252, \"\\u0120AZ\": 26253, \"Cut\": 26254, \"\\u0120roomm\": 26255, \"\\u0120speculate\": 26256, \"Hash\": 26257, \"\\u0120restrictive\": 26258, \"1111\": 26259, \"redible\": 26260, \"onel\": 26261, \"\\u0120rampant\": 26262, \"reported\": 26263, \"\\u0120Suite\": 26264, \"\\u0120Minimum\": 26265, \"alys\": 26266, \"azard\": 26267, \"loop\": 26268, \"\\u0120lent\": 26269, \"sha\": 26270, \"\\u0120vandal\": 26271, \"menu\": 26272, \"\\u0120Boehner\": 26273, \"\\u0120narratives\": 26274, \"\\u0120authenticity\": 26275, \"269\": 26276, \"anic\": 26277, \"duty\": 26278, \"285\": 26279, \"\\u0120thanked\": 26280, \"\\u0120betrayed\": 26281, \"lift\": 26282, \"\\u0120southwest\": 26283, \"\\u0120Dexter\": 26284, \"\\u0120Bod\": 26285, \"\\u0120keywords\": 26286, \"Average\": 26287, \"DIS\": 26288, \"\\u0120ethnicity\": 26289, \"!),\": 26290, \"\\u0120Nationals\": 26291, \"\\u00e1\\u00b9\": 26292, \"\\u0120Tah\": 26293, \"ioxid\": 26294, \"\\u0120widget\": 26295, \"\\u0120pasta\": 26296, \"\\u0120billing\": 26297, \"\\u0120trilogy\": 26298, \"\\u0120Lines\": 26299, \"\\u0120sniff\": 26300, \"\\u0120nephew\": 26301, \"Late\": 26302, \"\\u0120princip\": 26303, \"\\u0120Loop\": 26304, \"\\u0120Marxist\": 26305, \"\\u0120dissolved\": 26306, \"\\u0120contexts\": 26307, \"\\u0120Amount\": 26308, \"\\u0120Spike\": 26309, \"\\u0120totals\": 26310, \"\\u0120organizer\": 26311, \"\\u0120uprising\": 26312, \"ships\": 26313, \"YY\": 26314, \"\\u0120Northeast\": 26315, \"money\": 26316, \"gradation\": 26317, \"\\u0120goalkeeper\": 26318, \"\\u0120Hear\": 26319, \"\\u0120steak\": 26320, \"\\u0120BuzzFeed\": 26321, \"\\u0120solemn\": 26322, \"\\u0120Scand\": 26323, \"\\u0120popping\": 26324, \"\\u0120adhere\": 26325, \"\\u0120Alleg\": 26326, \"byte\": 26327, \"\\u0120Wolver\": 26328, \"\\u0120unin\": 26329, \"\\u0120recol\": 26330, \"itud\": 26331, \"\\u0120mimic\": 26332, \"ibus\": 26333, \"\\u0120predicts\": 26334, \"\\u0120Keeper\": 26335, \"iating\": 26336, \"\\u0120deception\": 26337, \"\\u0120learnt\": 26338, \"\\u0120diary\": 26339, \"\\u0120conditional\": 26340, \"\\u0120relic\": 26341, \"\\u0120invoke\": 26342, \"ienced\": 26343, \"\\u00e5\\u012a\": 26344, \"\\u0120Pont\": 26345, \"\\u0120cellphone\": 26346, \"\\u0120speeding\": 26347, \"\\u0120tackling\": 26348, \"\\u0120nude\": 26349, \"opened\": 26350, \"\\u0120Manafort\": 26351, \"\\u01201952\": 26352, \"\\u0120majors\": 26353, \"\\u0120Silence\": 26354, \"\\u0120logistics\": 26355, \"\\u0120weighted\": 26356, \"\\u0120Psychiat\": 26357, \"\\\":[\\\"\": 26358, \"\\u0120sickness\": 26359, \"\\u0120dividends\": 26360, \"zon\": 26361, \"Release\": 26362, \"\\u0120Keys\": 26363, \"\\u0120Ich\": 26364, \"\\u0120enz\": 26365, \"\\u0120Fernand\": 26366, \"\\u0120\\u00ce\\u00b1\": 26367, \"\\u0120meanings\": 26368, \"\\u0120penny\": 26369, \"\\u0120stern\": 26370, \"\\u0120lar\": 26371, \"\\u0120Published\": 26372, \"\\u0120backdrop\": 26373, \"Kim\": 26374, \"\\u0120Synt\": 26375, \"\\u0120debuted\": 26376, \"wm\": 26377, \"\\u0120Isle\": 26378, \"\\u0120regulating\": 26379, \"otti\": 26380, \"\\u0120Scholars\": 26381, \"icester\": 26382, \"\\u0120Chef\": 26383, \"\\u0120pops\": 26384, \"\\u0120Launcher\": 26385, \"\\u0120Various\": 26386, \"\\u0120commenting\": 26387, \"oslav\": 26388, \"enzie\": 26389, \"\\u0120rivalry\": 26390, \"\\u00e2\\u0124\\u00ac\": 26391, \"Really\": 26392, \"\\u0120orc\": 26393, \"\\u0120bean\": 26394, \"\\u0120Judy\": 26395, \"Notice\": 26396, \"\\u0120Bike\": 26397, \"?]\": 26398, \"\\u0120rented\": 26399, \"sten\": 26400, \"\\u0120forefront\": 26401, \"\\u0120Baldwin\": 26402, \"\\u0120yielded\": 26403, \"tails\": 26404, \"Prime\": 26405, \"\\u0120Sources\": 26406, \"icator\": 26407, \"Sean\": 26408, \"\\u0120marching\": 26409, \"Output\": 26410, \"\\u0120Jungle\": 26411, \"\\u0120reside\": 26412, \"zzle\": 26413, \"\\u0120Andrews\": 26414, \"\\u0120torque\": 26415, \"Basic\": 26416, \"Actually\": 26417, \"strap\": 26418, \"penter\": 26419, \"\\u0120exams\": 26420, \"\\u0120Ya\": 26421, \"\\u0120159\": 26422, \"\\u0120Decision\": 26423, \"\\u0120ransom\": 26424, \"eteenth\": 26425, \"ensing\": 26426, \"213\": 26427, \"\\u0120sunset\": 26428, \"404\": 26429, \"\\u0120Rapid\": 26430, \"\\u0120Hein\": 26431, \"\\u0120Aboriginal\": 26432, \"\\u0120organism\": 26433, \"\\u0120Sever\": 26434, \"\\u0120cla\": 26435, \"aji\": 26436, \"Simple\": 26437, \"\\u0120Flavor\": 26438, \"\\u0120Eval\": 26439, \"prus\": 26440, \"\\u0120chorus\": 26441, \"DAY\": 26442, \"\\u0120denounced\": 26443, \"\\u0120biography\": 26444, \"\\u0120Turnbull\": 26445, \"Recent\": 26446, \"Normal\": 26447, \"lections\": 26448, \"Word\": 26449, \"\\u0120ferry\": 26450, \"\\u0120Wagner\": 26451, \"hom\": 26452, \"Unit\": 26453, \"\\u0120supermarket\": 26454, \"\\u0120Sith\": 26455, \"\\u0120nominees\": 26456, \"\\u0120dictatorship\": 26457, \"iddler\": 26458, \"\\u0120announces\": 26459, \"\\u0120Them\": 26460, \"\\u0120Neptune\": 26461, \"\\u0120deity\": 26462, \"\\u0120Yi\": 26463, \"\\u0120monarch\": 26464, \"ARR\": 26465, \"\\u0120invaded\": 26466, \"\\u0120Hok\": 26467, \"untary\": 26468, \"Certain\": 26469, \"ega\": 26470, \"\\u0120kidding\": 26471, \"\\u0120Regulation\": 26472, \"\\u0120tray\": 26473, \"\\u0120photographers\": 26474, \"\\u0120Arcane\": 26475, \"\\u0120discharged\": 26476, \"\\u0120evangelical\": 26477, \"\\u0120interchange\": 26478, \"\\u0120filmmaker\": 26479, \"\\u0120Endless\": 26480, \"\\u0120290\": 26481, \"\\u0120Salvador\": 26482, \"ASY\": 26483, \"\\u0120Signal\": 26484, \"\\u0120wrath\": 26485, \"\\u00e2\\u013e\": 26486, \"lot\": 26487, \"'/\": 26488, \"\\u0120projectile\": 26489, \"\\u0120employing\": 26490, \"\\u0120Interface\": 26491, \"191\": 26492, \"atellite\": 26493, \"\\u0120Rath\": 26494, \"package\": 26495, \"\\u0120indications\": 26496, \"Jason\": 26497, \"\\u0120args\": 26498, \"\\u0120GHz\": 26499, \"\\u0120tilt\": 26500, \"nants\": 26501, \"won\": 26502, \"\\u00e3\\u0124\\u00b5\": 26503, \"redd\": 26504, \"rescent\": 26505, \"\\u0120Calendar\": 26506, \"\\u0120modular\": 26507, \"\\u0120assisting\": 26508, \"\\u0120redeem\": 26509, \"\\u0120Bean\": 26510, \"\\u0120worsh\": 26511, \"\\u0120decentralized\": 26512, \")...\": 26513, \"377\": 26514, \"\\u0120arrays\": 26515, \"\\u0120accomplishments\": 26516, \"\\u00ce\\u00bf\": 26517, \"dot\": 26518, \"\\u0120mutually\": 26519, \"\\u0120obstruct\": 26520, \"\\u0120misrepresent\": 26521, \"orest\": 26522, \"ionic\": 26523, \"ruce\": 26524, \"%;\": 26525, \"\\u0120knowingly\": 26526, \"porting\": 26527, \"inently\": 26528, \"Ari\": 26529, \"\\u0120Schultz\": 26530, \"Da\": 26531, \"\\u0120Cere\": 26532, \"\\u0120obsolete\": 26533, \"\\u0127\\u012d\": 26534, \"give\": 26535, \"\\u0120bait\": 26536, \"\\u0120enlarg\": 26537, \"Neill\": 26538, \"\\u01201933\": 26539, \"\\u0120reconsider\": 26540, \"\\u0120Sergeant\": 26541, \"\\u0120Diane\": 26542, \"\\u0120Cogn\": 26543, \"\\u0120Icon\": 26544, \"Position\": 26545, \"\\u0120fost\": 26546, \"\\u0120stirring\": 26547, \"seven\": 26548, \"\\u0120SpaceX\": 26549, \"uggets\": 26550, \"\\u0120medd\": 26551, \"Gal\": 26552, \"\\u0120Sister\": 26553, \"Boy\": 26554, \"\\u0120triggering\": 26555, \"Taking\": 26556, \"\\u0120screams\": 26557, \"\\u0120causal\": 26558, \"\\u0120awaken\": 26559, \"Arm\": 26560, \"297\": 26561, \"\\u0120dispatched\": 26562, \"\\u0120FALSE\": 26563, \"\\u0120organizational\": 26564, \"\\u0120Tong\": 26565, \"\\u0120dilemma\": 26566, \"demon\": 26567, \"Spl\": 26568, \"\\u0120hooks\": 26569, \"uding\": 26570, \"\\u0120validate\": 26571, \"\\u0120potion\": 26572, \"\\u0120claw\": 26573, \"\\u0120burgl\": 26574, \"\\u0120quir\": 26575, \"ACA\": 26576, \"\\u0120Brennan\": 26577, \"\\u0120durability\": 26578, \"\\u0120bombings\": 26579, \"\\u0120Window\": 26580, \"\\u0120culprit\": 26581, \"325\": 26582, \"Therefore\": 26583, \"umbered\": 26584, \"performance\": 26585, \"warts\": 26586, \"\\u0120enforcing\": 26587, \"\\u0120Blow\": 26588, \"\\u0120reprint\": 26589, \"ifax\": 26590, \"alpha\": 26591, \"\\u0120sinister\": 26592, \"\\u0120burger\": 26593, \"fighting\": 26594, \"Score\": 26595, \"\\u0120Stones\": 26596, \"iem\": 26597, \"405\": 26598, \"chemy\": 26599, \"\\u0120vinegar\": 26600, \"nom\": 26601, \"\\u0120prevailing\": 26602, \"\\u0120Latest\": 26603, \"\\u00c2\\u00b6\": 26604, \"\\u0120ba\": 26605, \"\\u0120Writer\": 26606, \"\\u0120177\": 26607, \"\\u0120Conway\": 26608, \"\\u0120collects\": 26609, \"\\u0120quantitative\": 26610, \"\\u0120horrors\": 26611, \"ogens\": 26612, \"\\u0120Slov\": 26613, \"\\u0120lays\": 26614, \"haw\": 26615, \"\\u0120Slash\": 26616, \"\\u0120nightclub\": 26617, \"\\u0120Davies\": 26618, \"\\u0120bride\": 26619, \"\\u0120Scarlet\": 26620, \"ymm\": 26621, \"\\u0120Applications\": 26622, \"velength\": 26623, \"\\u0120revival\": 26624, \"\\u0120softly\": 26625, \"\\u0120zoo\": 26626, \"itaire\": 26627, \"Cur\": 26628, \"\\u0120electrom\": 26629, \"\\u0120planting\": 26630, \"OTO\": 26631, \"\\u0120Elements\": 26632, \"\\u0120swallow\": 26633, \"porter\": 26634, \"\\u0120laptops\": 26635, \"\\u0120peanut\": 26636, \"\\u0120lobbyists\": 26637, \"\\u00ce\\u00b2\": 26638, \"Panel\": 26639, \"\\u0120Joan\": 26640, \"imil\": 26641, \"tnc\": 26642, \"\\u0120resisted\": 26643, \"\\u0120outwe\": 26644, \"\\u0120retaining\": 26645, \"atri\": 26646, \"\\u0120poorer\": 26647, \"\\u0120Syrians\": 26648, \"\\u0120Hammond\": 26649, \"\\u0120weld\": 26650, \"uder\": 26651, \"topic\": 26652, \"\\u0120TT\": 26653, \"ricia\": 26654, \"\\u0120thieves\": 26655, \"Lic\": 26656, \"\\u0120Gust\": 26657, \"\\u0120Ways\": 26658, \"areth\": 26659, \"243\": 26660, \"\\u0120broadcaster\": 26661, \"shield\": 26662, \"assium\": 26663, \"uble\": 26664, \"\\u0120airstrikes\": 26665, \"onso\": 26666, \"\\u0120pedal\": 26667, \"\\u0120collectors\": 26668, \"\\u0120Vander\": 26669, \"\\u0120Mesa\": 26670, \"\\u0120dictator\": 26671, \"\\u0120dir\": 26672, \"enton\": 26673, \"cart\": 26674, \"score\": 26675, \"adder\": 26676, \"Cry\": 26677, \"\\u0120ssh\": 26678, \"gger\": 26679, \"\\u0120drunken\": 26680, \"\\u0120GS\": 26681, \"\\u0120Seat\": 26682, \"\\u0120cornerback\": 26683, \"\\u0120skipped\": 26684, \"\\u0120Researchers\": 26685, \"\\u0120Audi\": 26686, \"Reference\": 26687, \"\\u0120haunted\": 26688, \"\\u00c3\\u00ab\": 26689, \"\\u0120Clinic\": 26690, \"cz\": 26691, \"\\u0120ps\": 26692, \"\\u0120Paladin\": 26693, \"\\u0120Recipe\": 26694, \"\\u0120stigma\": 26695, \"oppy\": 26696, \"\\u0120monkeys\": 26697, \"\\u0120Hawk\": 26698, \"Sad\": 26699, \"\\\"/>\": 26700, \"\\u0120Workshop\": 26701, \"\\u0120Retail\": 26702, \"\\u0120Avatar\": 26703, \"625\": 26704, \"Na\": 26705, \"\\u0120VC\": 26706, \"\\u0120Secure\": 26707, \"MY\": 26708, \"1988\": 26709, \"ossip\": 26710, \"\\u0120prostate\": 26711, \"\\u0120unden\": 26712, \"\\u0120gamer\": 26713, \"\\u0120Contents\": 26714, \"\\u0120Warhammer\": 26715, \"\\u0120Sentinel\": 26716, \"310\": 26717, \"\\u0120segregation\": 26718, \"\\u0120Flex\": 26719, \"\\u0120MAY\": 26720, \"\\u0120drills\": 26721, \"\\u0120Drugs\": 26722, \"Islamic\": 26723, \"\\u0120spur\": 26724, \"\\u0120cafe\": 26725, \"\\u0120imaginary\": 26726, \"\\u0120guiding\": 26727, \"\\u0120swings\": 26728, \"\\u0120Theme\": 26729, \"oby\": 26730, \"\\u0120nud\": 26731, \"\\u0120begging\": 26732, \"\\u0120strongh\": 26733, \"\\u0120rejecting\": 26734, \"\\u0120pedestrians\": 26735, \"\\u0120Prospect\": 26736, \"Rare\": 26737, \"sle\": 26738, \"\\u0120concessions\": 26739, \"\\u0120Constitutional\": 26740, \"\\u0120beams\": 26741, \"\\u0120fibers\": 26742, \"poon\": 26743, \"\\u0120instincts\": 26744, \"property\": 26745, \"\\u0120BIG\": 26746, \"Sanders\": 26747, \"imates\": 26748, \"\\u0120coating\": 26749, \"\\u0120corpses\": 26750, \"\\u0120TRUE\": 26751, \"checked\": 26752, \"\\u0120166\": 26753, \"Ash\": 26754, \"\\u0120JS\": 26755, \"\\u0120Fiction\": 26756, \"\\u0120communal\": 26757, \"\\u0120energetic\": 26758, \"oooooooo\": 26759, \"\\u0120nowadays\": 26760, \"ILD\": 26761, \"ibo\": 26762, \"\\u0120SUV\": 26763, \"Ren\": 26764, \"\\u0120dwelling\": 26765, \"Silver\": 26766, \"\\u0120tally\": 26767, \"\\u0120Moving\": 26768, \"\\u0120coward\": 26769, \"\\u0120generals\": 26770, \"\\u0120horns\": 26771, \"\\u0120circulated\": 26772, \"\\u0120robbed\": 26773, \"\\u0120Unlimited\": 26774, \"\\u0120harassed\": 26775, \"\\u0120inhibit\": 26776, \"\\u0120composer\": 26777, \"\\u0120Spotify\": 26778, \"\\u0120spreads\": 26779, \"364\": 26780, \"\\u0120suicidal\": 26781, \"\\u0120noises\": 26782, \"\\u0120Stur\": 26783, \"\\u0120saga\": 26784, \"\\u0120Kag\": 26785, \"iso\": 26786, \"\\u0120theoretically\": 26787, \"Money\": 26788, \"\\u0120similarity\": 26789, \"\\u0120sliced\": 26790, \"utils\": 26791, \"inges\": 26792, \"\\\"-\": 26793, \"\\u0120anth\": 26794, \"\\u0120imped\": 26795, \"Module\": 26796, \"Throughout\": 26797, \"\\u0120menus\": 26798, \"committee\": 26799, \"andi\": 26800, \"obj\": 26801, \"inav\": 26802, \"fired\": 26803, \"\\u0120Abdullah\": 26804, \"\\u0120undead\": 26805, \"\\u0120fonts\": 26806, \"Hold\": 26807, \"ENG\": 26808, \"\\u0120sustainability\": 26809, \"\\u0120flick\": 26810, \"\\u0120razor\": 26811, \"\\u0120Fest\": 26812, \"\\u0120Characters\": 26813, \"\\u0120wording\": 26814, \"\\u0120populist\": 26815, \"\\u0120criticizing\": 26816, \"\\u0120muse\": 26817, \"vine\": 26818, \"\\u0120cardboard\": 26819, \"\\u0120kindly\": 26820, \"\\u0120fringe\": 26821, \"\\u0120Theft\": 26822, \"icultural\": 26823, \"\\u0120governors\": 26824, \"\\u0120\\u00ef\\u00bf\\u00bd\\u00ef\\u00bf\\u00bd\\u00ef\\u00bf\\u00bd\\u00ef\\u00bf\\u00bd\": 26825, \"\\u0120163\": 26826, \"\\u0120timeout\": 26827, \"\\u0120Auth\": 26828, \"Children\": 26829, \"AU\": 26830, \"\\u0120redemption\": 26831, \"\\u0120Alger\": 26832, \"\\u01201914\": 26833, \"\\u0120waved\": 26834, \"\\u0120astronauts\": 26835, \"ograms\": 26836, \"\\u0120swamp\": 26837, \"\\u0120Finnish\": 26838, \"\\u0120candle\": 26839, \"\\u0120tonnes\": 26840, \"utm\": 26841, \"\\u0120ray\": 26842, \"\\u0120spun\": 26843, \"\\u0120fearful\": 26844, \"articles\": 26845, \"\\u0120caus\": 26846, \"orically\": 26847, \"\\u0120Requires\": 26848, \"\\u0120Gol\": 26849, \"\\u0120pope\": 26850, \"\\u0120inaugural\": 26851, \"\\u0120gle\": 26852, \"ADA\": 26853, \"\\u0120ISIL\": 26854, \"\\u0120Offensive\": 26855, \"\\u0120watchdog\": 26856, \"\\u0120balcon\": 26857, \"entity\": 26858, \"\\u0120Hoo\": 26859, \"\\u0120gallon\": 26860, \"ACC\": 26861, \"\\u0120doubling\": 26862, \"\\u0120implication\": 26863, \"\\u0120Sight\": 26864, \"\\u0120doctr\": 26865, \"-------\": 26866, \"\\u0120\\\\\\\\\": 26867, \"\\u0120malt\": 26868, \"Roll\": 26869, \"\\u0120\\u00e2\\u012b\\u00a5\": 26870, \"\\u0120recap\": 26871, \"adding\": 26872, \"uces\": 26873, \"\\u0120Bend\": 26874, \"figure\": 26875, \"\\u0120turkey\": 26876, \"\\u0120societal\": 26877, \"\\u0120Tickets\": 26878, \"\\u0120commercially\": 26879, \"\\u0120spicy\": 26880, \"\\u0120216\": 26881, \"\\u0120Ramp\": 26882, \"\\u0120superiority\": 26883, \"\\u00c3\\u00af\": 26884, \"\\u0120Tracker\": 26885, \"Carl\": 26886, \"\\u0120Coy\": 26887, \"\\u0120Patriot\": 26888, \"\\u0120consulted\": 26889, \"\\u0120listings\": 26890, \"\\u0120slew\": 26891, \"reenshot\": 26892, \"\\u0120Gone\": 26893, \"\\u0120[...]\": 26894, \"309\": 26895, \"\\u0120hottest\": 26896, \"\\u00d8\\u00b1\": 26897, \"\\u0120rocky\": 26898, \"\\u0120Diaz\": 26899, \"\\u0120massage\": 26900, \"\\u0120paraly\": 26901, \"\\u0120pony\": 26902, \"Az\": 26903, \"\\u0120cartridge\": 26904, \"\\u0120NZ\": 26905, \"\\u0120snack\": 26906, \"\\u0120Lamar\": 26907, \"plement\": 26908, \"\\u0120Leslie\": 26909, \"\\u0120mater\": 26910, \"\\u0120snipp\": 26911, \"246\": 26912, \"\\u0120jointly\": 26913, \"\\u0120Brisbane\": 26914, \"\\u0120iPod\": 26915, \"\\u0120pumping\": 26916, \"\\u0120goat\": 26917, \"\\u0120Sharon\": 26918, \"ealing\": 26919, \"\\u0120coron\": 26920, \"\\u0120anomal\": 26921, \"rahim\": 26922, \"\\u0120Connection\": 26923, \"\\u0120sculpture\": 26924, \"\\u0120scheduling\": 26925, \"\\u0120Daddy\": 26926, \"athing\": 26927, \"\\u0120eyebrows\": 26928, \"\\u0120curved\": 26929, \"\\u0120sentiments\": 26930, \"\\u0120drafting\": 26931, \"Drop\": 26932, \"([\": 26933, \"\\u0120nominal\": 26934, \"\\u0120Leadership\": 26935, \"\\u0120Grow\": 26936, \"\\u0120176\": 26937, \"\\u0120constructive\": 26938, \"ivation\": 26939, \"\\u0120corrupted\": 26940, \"gerald\": 26941, \"\\u0120Cros\": 26942, \"\\u0120Chester\": 26943, \"\\u0120Lap\": 26944, \"\\u00e3\\u0123\\u00aa\": 26945, \"OTH\": 26946, \"DATA\": 26947, \"\\u0120almond\": 26948, \"probably\": 26949, \"Imp\": 26950, \"\\u0120feast\": 26951, \"\\u0120Warcraft\": 26952, \"Flor\": 26953, \"\\u0120checkpoint\": 26954, \"\\u0120transcription\": 26955, \"\\u0120204\": 26956, \"\\u0120tweaks\": 26957, \"\\u0120relieve\": 26958, \"Science\": 26959, \"\\u0120performer\": 26960, \"Zone\": 26961, \"\\u0120turmoil\": 26962, \"igated\": 26963, \"hibit\": 26964, \"\\u0120Cafe\": 26965, \"themed\": 26966, \"\\u0120fluor\": 26967, \"bench\": 26968, \"\\u0120decom\": 26969, \"\\u0120Unt\": 26970, \"\\u0120Barrett\": 26971, \"\\u0120Facts\": 26972, \"\\u0120tasting\": 26973, \"\\u0120PTSD\": 26974, \"\\u0120Seal\": 26975, \"\\u0120Judaism\": 26976, \"\\u0120Dynamic\": 26977, \"\\u0120Cors\": 26978, \"Ve\": 26979, \"\\u0120Ming\": 26980, \"\\u0120Transform\": 26981, \"von\": 26982, \"\\u0120Defenders\": 26983, \"\\u0120Tactical\": 26984, \"\\u0120Von\": 26985, \"\\u0120Univers\": 26986, \"\\u0120distorted\": 26987, \"\\u0120Breath\": 26988, \"?'\\\"\": 26989, \"\\u0120agon\": 26990, \"\\u0120Deadly\": 26991, \"\\u0120lan\": 26992, \"\\u0120Cycle\": 26993, \"orned\": 26994, \"\\u0120reliably\": 26995, \"\\u0120glor\": 26996, \"\\u0120Monkey\": 26997, \"\\u00e3\\u0125\\u00a1\": 26998, \"\\u0120adren\": 26999, \"\\u0120microwave\": 27000, \"\\u0120Alban\": 27001, \"ircraft\": 27002, \"digit\": 27003, \"smart\": 27004, \"\\u0120Dread\": 27005, \"\\u00c2\\u00af\\u00c2\\u00af\\u00c2\\u00af\\u00c2\\u00af\\u00c2\\u00af\\u00c2\\u00af\\u00c2\\u00af\\u00c2\\u00af\\u00c2\\u00af\\u00c2\\u00af\\u00c2\\u00af\\u00c2\\u00af\\u00c2\\u00af\\u00c2\\u00af\\u00c2\\u00af\\u00c2\\u00af\": 27006, \"{{\": 27007, \"\\u0120Rochester\": 27008, \"\\u0120simplified\": 27009, \"\\u0120inflicted\": 27010, \"\\u0120takeover\": 27011, \"\\u0120yourselves\": 27012, \"aditional\": 27013, \"\\u0120muscular\": 27014, \"KS\": 27015, \"\\u0120ingen\": 27016, \"Tax\": 27017, \"\\u0120Feature\": 27018, \"277\": 27019, \"\\u0120cruc\": 27020, \"\\u0120crate\": 27021, \"\\u0120unidentified\": 27022, \"\\u0120acclaimed\": 27023, \"\\u0120Manga\": 27024, \"\\u0120Frances\": 27025, \"\\u0120Nepal\": 27026, \"\\u0120Gerald\": 27027, \"\\u0120Kuwait\": 27028, \"\\u0120slain\": 27029, \"\\u0120Heb\": 27030, \"\\u0120Goku\": 27031, \"\\u00e3\\u0123\\u00ae\\u00e6\": 27032, \"286\": 27033, \"Mrs\": 27034, \"\\u0120Cody\": 27035, \"\\u0120Sanctuary\": 27036, \"016\": 27037, \"\\u0120dismant\": 27038, \"\\u0120dataset\": 27039, \"\\u0120Hond\": 27040, \"buck\": 27041, \"\\u0120Patterson\": 27042, \"\\u0120palette\": 27043, \"\\u0120GD\": 27044, \"icol\": 27045, \"\\u0120Lodge\": 27046, \"\\u0120planetary\": 27047, \"akin\": 27048, \"\\u0120Registered\": 27049, \"abwe\": 27050, \"\\u0120Petersburg\": 27051, \"\\u0120hailed\": 27052, \"\\u0120Piece\": 27053, \"Sche\": 27054, \"\\u0120DOJ\": 27055, \"\\u0120enumer\": 27056, \"181\": 27057, \"\\u0120Observer\": 27058, \"\\u0120Bold\": 27059, \"founded\": 27060, \"commerce\": 27061, \"\\u0120exploits\": 27062, \"\\u0120Finding\": 27063, \"URN\": 27064, \"\\u0120Sne\": 27065, \"\\u0120Acid\": 27066, \"ayette\": 27067, \"\\u0120Values\": 27068, \"\\u0120drastic\": 27069, \"\\u0120architectural\": 27070, \"\\u0120\\\".\": 27071, \"\\u00d7\\u0137\": 27072, \"umped\": 27073, \"\\u0120wrapping\": 27074, \"\\u0120widow\": 27075, \"\\u0120Slayer\": 27076, \"lace\": 27077, \"once\": 27078, \"Germany\": 27079, \"avoid\": 27080, \"\\u0120temples\": 27081, \"PAR\": 27082, \"\\u00c3\\u00b4\": 27083, \"\\u0120Lucifer\": 27084, \"\\u0120Flickr\": 27085, \"lov\": 27086, \"forces\": 27087, \"\\u0120scouting\": 27088, \"\\u0120louder\": 27089, \"tesy\": 27090, \"\\u0120beforehand\": 27091, \"\\u00c4\\u0135\": 27092, \"\\u0120Neon\": 27093, \"\\u0120Wol\": 27094, \"\\u0120Typically\": 27095, \"\\u0120Politico\": 27096, \"-+-+\": 27097, \"\\u0120builder\": 27098, \"\\u0120derive\": 27099, \"Kill\": 27100, \"\\u0120poker\": 27101, \"\\u0120ambiguous\": 27102, \"\\u0120lifts\": 27103, \"\\u0120cyt\": 27104, \"\\u0120ribs\": 27105, \"oodle\": 27106, \"\\u0120Sounds\": 27107, \"hair\": 27108, \"\\u0120Syndrome\": 27109, \"tf\": 27110, \"\\u0120proportional\": 27111, \"uid\": 27112, \"\\u0120pertaining\": 27113, \"\\u0120Kindle\": 27114, \"\\u0120Negro\": 27115, \"\\u0120reiterated\": 27116, \"\\u0120Tonight\": 27117, \"oths\": 27118, \"\\u0120Cornell\": 27119, \"\\u0120owing\": 27120, \"\\u0120208\": 27121, \"elfare\": 27122, \"ocating\": 27123, \"\\u0120Birds\": 27124, \"Subscribe\": 27125, \"\\u0120essays\": 27126, \"\\u0120burdens\": 27127, \"\\u0120illustrations\": 27128, \"arious\": 27129, \"ERAL\": 27130, \"\\u0120Calcul\": 27131, \"\\u0120xen\": 27132, \"\\u0120LinkedIn\": 27133, \"\\u0120Jung\": 27134, \"\\u0120redesign\": 27135, \"Connor\": 27136, \"296\": 27137, \"\\u0120reversal\": 27138, \"\\u0120Adelaide\": 27139, \"\\u0120LL\": 27140, \"\\u0120sinking\": 27141, \"\\u0120gum\": 27142, \"USH\": 27143, \"capt\": 27144, \"\\u0120Grimm\": 27145, \"\\u0120footsteps\": 27146, \"\\u0120CBD\": 27147, \"ispers\": 27148, \"\\u0120prose\": 27149, \"Wednesday\": 27150, \"\\u0120Movies\": 27151, \"edin\": 27152, \"\\u0120overturned\": 27153, \"\\u0120contentious\": 27154, \"USB\": 27155, \"~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\": 27156, \"\\u0120Copper\": 27157, \"\\u0120pointless\": 27158, \"NV\": 27159, \"values\": 27160, \"olphin\": 27161, \"dain\": 27162, \"\\u0120deposited\": 27163, \"\\u0120GW\": 27164, \"\\u0120preceded\": 27165, \"\\u0120Cla\": 27166, \"\\u0120Golem\": 27167, \"\\u0120Nim\": 27168, \"\\u0120\\u00ce\\u00b2\": 27169, \"\\u0120Engineers\": 27170, \"middle\": 27171, \"\\u0120flatt\": 27172, \"operative\": 27173, \"\\u0120councils\": 27174, \"imbabwe\": 27175, \"elin\": 27176, \"\\u0120stressful\": 27177, \"\\u0120LD\": 27178, \"\\u0120resh\": 27179, \"lake\": 27180, \"\\u0120wheelchair\": 27181, \"\\u0120Alternative\": 27182, \"\\u0120optimize\": 27183, \"operation\": 27184, \"\\u0120peek\": 27185, \"\\u0120oneself\": 27186, \"igil\": 27187, \"\\u0120transitions\": 27188, \"opathy\": 27189, \"blank\": 27190, \"\\u0120169\": 27191, \"171\": 27192, \"________________________________________________________________\": 27193, \"\\u0120laundering\": 27194, \"Enc\": 27195, \"\\u0120DEC\": 27196, \"\\u0120workouts\": 27197, \"\\u0120spikes\": 27198, \"\\u0120dinosaurs\": 27199, \"\\u0120discriminatory\": 27200, \"Pool\": 27201, \"Rather\": 27202, \"385\": 27203, \"RNA\": 27204, \"testers\": 27205, \"eto\": 27206, \"\\u0120Identity\": 27207, \"\\u0120vein\": 27208, \"\\u0120Burton\": 27209, \"\\u0120arcade\": 27210, \"420\": 27211, \"Ultimately\": 27212, \"\\u0120Sadly\": 27213, \"\\u00c3\\u00b0\": 27214, \"pill\": 27215, \"\\u0120cubic\": 27216, \"\\u0120Spectrum\": 27217, \"these\": 27218, \"states\": 27219, \"\\u0120unofficial\": 27220, \"hawks\": 27221, \"\\u0120EVERY\": 27222, \"\\u0120rainbow\": 27223, \"\\u0120incarceration\": 27224, \"anding\": 27225, \"\\u0120syll\": 27226, \"\\u0120Everton\": 27227, \"\\u0120179\": 27228, \"\\u0120Serbia\": 27229, \"\\u0120189\": 27230, \"meter\": 27231, \"\\u0120Mickey\": 27232, \"\\u0120antiqu\": 27233, \"\\u0120factual\": 27234, \"neck\": 27235, \"\\u0120Nare\": 27236, \"norm\": 27237, \"must\": 27238, \"\\u0120highways\": 27239, \"\\u0120glam\": 27240, \"\\u0120dividing\": 27241, \"\\u0120Squadron\": 27242, \"\\u0120Martha\": 27243, \"\\u0120births\": 27244, \"Cover\": 27245, \"////////////////\": 27246, \"\\u0120Wong\": 27247, \"Phot\": 27248, \"\\u0120ALS\": 27249, \"rio\": 27250, \"\\u0120Nonetheless\": 27251, \"\\u0120Lemon\": 27252, \"\\u0120206\": 27253, \"\\u0120EE\": 27254, \"\\u0120derivative\": 27255, \"\\u0120WWII\": 27256, \"vote\": 27257, \"\\u0120therein\": 27258, \"\\u0120separating\": 27259, \"446\": 27260, \"sync\": 27261, \"\\u0120Streets\": 27262, \"\\u0120ratt\": 27263, \"\\u0120municipality\": 27264, \"\\u0120Shortly\": 27265, \"\\u0120monk\": 27266, \"),\\\"\": 27267, \"\\u0120scrub\": 27268, \"\\u0120operatives\": 27269, \"Neither\": 27270, \"Place\": 27271, \"\\u0120Limit\": 27272, \"Female\": 27273, \"\\u0120Actor\": 27274, \"Character\": 27275, \"\\u0120constituted\": 27276, \"357\": 27277, \"\\u0120protested\": 27278, \"\\u0120Straw\": 27279, \"\\u0120Height\": 27280, \"ilda\": 27281, \"\\u0120Typh\": 27282, \"\\u0120floods\": 27283, \"\\u0120cosmetic\": 27284, \"WAY\": 27285, \"perture\": 27286, \"upon\": 27287, \"tons\": 27288, \"essing\": 27289, \"\\u0120Pocket\": 27290, \"\\u0120rooft\": 27291, \"\\u0120Caucas\": 27292, \"\\u0120antidepress\": 27293, \"\\u0120incompatible\": 27294, \"ECD\": 27295, \"\\u0120opera\": 27296, \"\\u0120Contest\": 27297, \"\\u0120generators\": 27298, \"lime\": 27299, \"Defense\": 27300, \"1987\": 27301, \"forum\": 27302, \"\\u0120savage\": 27303, \"\\u0120Hungarian\": 27304, \"nz\": 27305, \"\\u0120metallic\": 27306, \"\\u0120expelled\": 27307, \"\\u0120residency\": 27308, \"\\u0120dresses\": 27309, \"666\": 27310, \"\\u0120Clement\": 27311, \"fires\": 27312, \"Category\": 27313, \"\\u0120geek\": 27314, \"alis\": 27315, \"\\u0120cemetery\": 27316, \"educated\": 27317, \"\\u0120crawl\": 27318, \"\\u0120Unable\": 27319, \"\\u0120Tyson\": 27320, \"akis\": 27321, \"\\u0120pardon\": 27322, \"\\u0120Wra\": 27323, \"\\u0120strengthened\": 27324, \"\\u0120Fors\": 27325, \"335\": 27326, \"\\u0120HC\": 27327, \"\\u0120Mond\": 27328, \"\\u0120visuals\": 27329, \"\\u0120Beatles\": 27330, \"ettlement\": 27331, \"\\u0120\\u00ef\": 27332, \"gro\": 27333, \"\\u0120bash\": 27334, \"\\u0120poorest\": 27335, \"\\u0120excel\": 27336, \"\\u0120aspirations\": 27337, \"\\u0120Municip\": 27338, \"ensible\": 27339, \"\\u0120ceremonies\": 27340, \"\\u0120intimidation\": 27341, \"\\u0120CONTR\": 27342, \"beck\": 27343, \"\\u0120Kap\": 27344, \"asu\": 27345, \"\\u0120trademarks\": 27346, \"\\u0120Sew\": 27347, \"\\u0120Competition\": 27348, \"network\": 27349, \"\\u0120Arri\": 27350, \"\\u0120Tet\": 27351, \"Roaming\": 27352, \"WC\": 27353, \"Dat\": 27354, \"\\u0120sob\": 27355, \"\\u0120pairing\": 27356, \"\\u0120overdose\": 27357, \"SAY\": 27358, \"aber\": 27359, \"\\u0120revolt\": 27360, \"\\u0120Fah\": 27361, \"acting\": 27362, \"eq\": 27363, \"estation\": 27364, \"Fight\": 27365, \"\\u0120Marks\": 27366, \"273\": 27367, \"\\u0120178\": 27368, \"Raw\": 27369, \"\\u00e3\\u0123\\u012d\": 27370, \"349\": 27371, \"blocks\": 27372, \"\\u0120verge\": 27373, \"estine\": 27374, \"\\u0120Podesta\": 27375, \"\\u0120invasive\": 27376, \"\\u0120profoundly\": 27377, \"\\u0120Ao\": 27378, \"each\": 27379, \"\\u0120lest\": 27380, \"interpret\": 27381, \"\\u0120shrinking\": 27382, \"\\u0120errone\": 27383, \"\\u0120chees\": 27384, \"lys\": 27385, \"\\u0120Ivy\": 27386, \"\\u0120Directory\": 27387, \"\\u0120hinted\": 27388, \"VICE\": 27389, \"\\u0120contacting\": 27390, \"\\u0120Gent\": 27391, \"hei\": 27392, \"\\u0120labeling\": 27393, \"\\u0120mercury\": 27394, \"\\u0120Lite\": 27395, \"\\u0120expires\": 27396, \"\\u0120destabil\": 27397, \"ritis\": 27398, \"cu\": 27399, \"\\u0120feathers\": 27400, \"\\u0120steer\": 27401, \"\\u0120programmed\": 27402, \"\\u0120Vader\": 27403, \"Going\": 27404, \"\\u0120Elim\": 27405, \"\\u0120yo\": 27406, \"\\u0120Miche\": 27407, \"\\u0120203\": 27408, \"\\u0120sleeves\": 27409, \"\\u0120bully\": 27410, \"\\u0120Humans\": 27411, \"368\": 27412, \"\\u0120compress\": 27413, \"\\u0120Banner\": 27414, \"ARS\": 27415, \"\\u0120awhile\": 27416, \"\\u0120calib\": 27417, \"\\u0120sponsorship\": 27418, \"\\u0120Difficulty\": 27419, \"\\u0120Papers\": 27420, \"\\u0120identifier\": 27421, \"}.\": 27422, \"\\u0120yog\": 27423, \"\\u0120Shia\": 27424, \"\\u0120cleanup\": 27425, \"\\u0120vibe\": 27426, \"introdu\": 27427, \"imming\": 27428, \"Australia\": 27429, \"\\u0120outlines\": 27430, \"\\u0120Youtube\": 27431, \"train\": 27432, \"\\u0120Makes\": 27433, \"\\u0120deported\": 27434, \"\\u0120centr\": 27435, \"\\u0120Dug\": 27436, \"\\u0120Boulder\": 27437, \"\\u0120Buffy\": 27438, \"\\u0120injunction\": 27439, \"\\u0120Harley\": 27440, \"\\u0120Groups\": 27441, \"\\u0120Dumbledore\": 27442, \"\\u0120Clara\": 27443, \"\\u0120\\\"-\": 27444, \"\\u0120sacrificed\": 27445, \"eph\": 27446, \"Shadow\": 27447, \"ibling\": 27448, \"\\u0120freelance\": 27449, \"\\u0120evidently\": 27450, \"phal\": 27451, \"\\u0120retains\": 27452, \"Mir\": 27453, \"\\u0120finite\": 27454, \"dar\": 27455, \"\\u0120Cous\": 27456, \"\\u0120repaired\": 27457, \"\\u0120periodic\": 27458, \"\\u0120championships\": 27459, \"\\u0120asteroid\": 27460, \"blind\": 27461, \"\\u0120expressly\": 27462, \"\\u0120Astros\": 27463, \"\\u0120scaled\": 27464, \"\\u0120geographical\": 27465, \"\\u0120Rapids\": 27466, \"Enjoy\": 27467, \"\\u0120elastic\": 27468, \"\\u0120Mohamed\": 27469, \"Market\": 27470, \"begin\": 27471, \"\\u0120discovers\": 27472, \"\\u0120telecommunications\": 27473, \"\\u0120scanner\": 27474, \"\\u0120enlarge\": 27475, \"\\u0120sharks\": 27476, \"\\u0120psychedel\": 27477, \"\\u0120Rouge\": 27478, \"\\u0120snapshot\": 27479, \"isine\": 27480, \"XP\": 27481, \"\\u0120pesticides\": 27482, \"\\u0120LSD\": 27483, \"\\u0120Distribution\": 27484, \"really\": 27485, \"\\u0120degradation\": 27486, \"\\u0120disguise\": 27487, \"\\u0120biom\": 27488, \"\\u0120EXT\": 27489, \"\\u0120equations\": 27490, \"\\u0120hazards\": 27491, \"\\u0120Compared\": 27492, \")*\": 27493, \"\\u0120virtues\": 27494, \"\\u0120elders\": 27495, \"\\u0120enhancing\": 27496, \"\\u0120Across\": 27497, \"eros\": 27498, \"angling\": 27499, \"\\u0120combust\": 27500, \"ucci\": 27501, \"\\u0120concussion\": 27502, \"\\u0120contraception\": 27503, \"\\u0120Kang\": 27504, \"\\u0120expresses\": 27505, \"\\u0120aux\": 27506, \"\\u0120Pione\": 27507, \"\\u0120exhibits\": 27508, \"Debug\": 27509, \"OTAL\": 27510, \"\\u0120Already\": 27511, \"\\u0120Wheeler\": 27512, \"\\u0120expands\": 27513, \"?:\": 27514, \"\\u0120reconciliation\": 27515, \"\\u0120pirates\": 27516, \"\\u0120purse\": 27517, \"\\u0120discourage\": 27518, \"\\u0120spectacle\": 27519, \"Rank\": 27520, \"\\u0120wraps\": 27521, \"\\u0120Thought\": 27522, \"\\u0120impending\": 27523, \"Opp\": 27524, \"\\u0120Anglo\": 27525, \"\\u0120EUR\": 27526, \"\\u0120screwed\": 27527, \"retched\": 27528, \"\\u0120encouragement\": 27529, \"models\": 27530, \"\\u0120confuse\": 27531, \"mmm\": 27532, \"\\u0120Vitamin\": 27533, \"\\u00e2\\u0138\\u0133\\u00e2\\u0138\\u0133\": 27534, \"Cru\": 27535, \"\\u0120knights\": 27536, \"\\u0120discard\": 27537, \"\\u0120bishops\": 27538, \"\\u0120Wear\": 27539, \"\\u0120Garrett\": 27540, \"kan\": 27541, \"\\u00e3\\u0125\\u0141\": 27542, \"\\u0120masculine\": 27543, \"capital\": 27544, \"\\u0120Aus\": 27545, \"\\u0120fatally\": 27546, \"thanks\": 27547, \"\\u0120AU\": 27548, \"\\u0120Gut\": 27549, \"1200\": 27550, \"\\u012000000000\": 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\"tarians\": 28266, \"\\u0120restricting\": 28267, \"racuse\": 28268, \"\\u0120weekday\": 28269, \"OUNT\": 28270, \"\\u0120shrugged\": 28271, \"leground\": 28272, \"\\u0120bald\": 28273, \"\\u0120Doctors\": 28274, \"\\u0120touted\": 28275, \"\\u0120Maxwell\": 28276, \"\\u0120214\": 28277, \"\\u0120diplomat\": 28278, \"\\u0120repression\": 28279, \"\\u0120constituency\": 28280, \"vice\": 28281, \"ranked\": 28282, \"\\u0120Napoleon\": 28283, \"gang\": 28284, \"\\u0120Forever\": 28285, \"tun\": 28286, \"\\u0120bulb\": 28287, \"\\u0120PDT\": 28288, \"\\u0120Cisco\": 28289, \"VEN\": 28290, \"\\u0120resumed\": 28291, \"Steven\": 28292, \"\\u0120Manitoba\": 28293, \"\\u0120fabulous\": 28294, \"\\u0120Agents\": 28295, \"1984\": 28296, \"\\u0120amusing\": 28297, \"\\u0120Mysteries\": 28298, \"\\u0120orthodox\": 28299, \"floor\": 28300, \"\\u0120questionnaire\": 28301, \"\\u0120penetrate\": 28302, \"\\u0120filmmakers\": 28303, \"\\u0120Unc\": 28304, \"\\u0120stamped\": 28305, \"\\u0120thirteen\": 28306, \"\\u0120outfield\": 28307, \"\\u0120forwarded\": 28308, \"\\u0120appra\": 28309, \"\\u0120aided\": 28310, \"try\": 28311, \"\\u0120unfocused\": 28312, \"\\u0120Liz\": 28313, \"\\u0120Wendy\": 28314, \"\\u0120Scene\": 28315, \"Charg\": 28316, \"\\u0120rejects\": 28317, \"\\u0120leftist\": 28318, \"\\u0120Providence\": 28319, \"\\u0120Brid\": 28320, \"regn\": 28321, \"\\u0120prophecy\": 28322, \"\\u0120LIVE\": 28323, \"499\": 28324, \"\\u0120forge\": 28325, \"\\u0120FML\": 28326, \"\\u0120intrinsic\": 28327, \"\\u0120Frog\": 28328, \"\\u0120wont\": 28329, \"\\u0120Holt\": 28330, \"\\u0120famed\": 28331, \"CLUS\": 28332, \"aepernick\": 28333, \"\\u0120Hate\": 28334, \"\\u0120Cay\": 28335, \"\\u0120registering\": 28336, \"ortality\": 28337, \"ropy\": 28338, \"ocalyptic\": 28339, \"aan\": 28340, \"nav\": 28341, \"\\u0120fascist\": 28342, \"IFIED\": 28343, \"\\u0120implicated\": 28344, \"\\u0120Resort\": 28345, \"\\u0120Chandler\": 28346, \"\\u0120Brick\": 28347, \"Pin\": 28348, \"ysc\": 28349, \"Usage\": 28350, \"\\u0120Helm\": 28351, \"usra\": 28352, \"\\u00e2\\u013a\\u0127\\u00e2\\u013a\\u0127\": 28353, \"\\u0120Abbas\": 28354, \"\\u0120unanimously\": 28355, \"\\u0120keeper\": 28356, \"\\u0120addicted\": 28357, \"???\": 28358, \"\\u0120helmets\": 28359, \"\\u0120antioxid\": 28360, \"apsed\": 28361, \"808\": 28362, \"giene\": 28363, \"\\u0120waits\": 28364, \"\\u0120minion\": 28365, \"raved\": 28366, \"\\u0120Porsche\": 28367, \"\\u0120dreaming\": 28368, \"\\u0120171\": 28369, \"\\u0120Cain\": 28370, \"\\u0120unfor\": 28371, \"asso\": 28372, \"\\u0120Configuration\": 28373, \"kun\": 28374, \"hardt\": 28375, \"\\u0120nested\": 28376, \"\\u0120LDS\": 28377, \"LES\": 28378, \"\\u0120tying\": 28379, \"enos\": 28380, \"\\u0120cue\": 28381, \"\\u0120Marqu\": 28382, \"skirts\": 28383, \"\\u0120clicked\": 28384, \"\\u0120expiration\": 28385, \"\\u0120Accordingly\": 28386, \"\\u0120WC\": 28387, \"\\u0120blessings\": 28388, \"\\u0120addictive\": 28389, \"\\u0120Narr\": 28390, \"yx\": 28391, \"\\u0120Jaguars\": 28392, \"\\u0120rents\": 28393, \"\\u0120Siber\": 28394, \"\\u0120tipped\": 28395, \"ousse\": 28396, \"\\u0120Fitzgerald\": 28397, \"\\u0120hierarch\": 28398, \"outine\": 28399, \"\\u0120wavelength\": 28400, \">.\": 28401, \"chid\": 28402, \"\\u0120Processing\": 28403, \"/+\": 28404, \"ranking\": 28405, \"Easy\": 28406, \"\\u0120Construct\": 28407, \"\\u0120tet\": 28408, \"insured\": 28409, \"HUD\": 28410, \"\\u0120quoting\": 28411, \"\\u0120communicated\": 28412, \"inx\": 28413, \"\\u0120inmate\": 28414, \"\\u0120erected\": 28415, \"\\u0120Absolutely\": 28416, \"\\u0120Surely\": 28417, \"\\u0120unim\": 28418, \"\\u0120Throne\": 28419, \"heid\": 28420, \"\\u0120claws\": 28421, \"\\u0120superstar\": 28422, \"\\u0120Lenn\": 28423, \"\\u0120Whis\": 28424, \"Uk\": 28425, \"abol\": 28426, \"\\u0120sket\": 28427, \"\\u0120Niet\": 28428, \"\\u0120perks\": 28429, \"\\u0120affinity\": 28430, \"\\u0120openings\": 28431, \"phasis\": 28432, \"\\u0120discriminate\": 28433, \"Tip\": 28434, \"vc\": 28435, \"\\u0120grinding\": 28436, \"\\u0120Jenny\": 28437, \"\\u0120asthma\": 28438, \"holes\": 28439, \"\\u0120Homer\": 28440, \"\\u0120registers\": 28441, \"\\u0120Glad\": 28442, \"\\u0120creations\": 28443, \"\\u0120lithium\": 28444, \"\\u0120applause\": 28445, \"until\": 28446, \"Justice\": 28447, \"\\u0120Turks\": 28448, \"\\u0120scandals\": 28449, \"\\u0120bake\": 28450, \"tank\": 28451, \"Mech\": 28452, \"\\u0120Means\": 28453, \"\\u0120Maid\": 28454, \"Republicans\": 28455, \"isal\": 28456, \"windows\": 28457, \"\\u0120Santos\": 28458, \"\\u0120vegetation\": 28459, \"338\": 28460, \"tri\": 28461, \"\\u0120flux\": 28462, \"insert\": 28463, \"\\u0120clarified\": 28464, \"\\u0120mortg\": 28465, \"\\u0120Chim\": 28466, \"\\u0120Tort\": 28467, \"\\u0120disclaim\": 28468, \"metal\": 28469, \"\\u0120Aside\": 28470, \"\\u0120induction\": 28471, \"\\u0120infl\": 28472, \"\\u0120atheists\": 28473, \"amph\": 28474, \"\\u0120ether\": 28475, \"\\u0120Vital\": 28476, \"\\u0120Built\": 28477, \"Mind\": 28478, \"\\u0120weaponry\": 28479, \"SET\": 28480, \"\\u0120186\": 28481, \"admin\": 28482, \"gam\": 28483, \"contract\": 28484, \"afa\": 28485, \"\\u0120derivatives\": 28486, \"\\u0120snacks\": 28487, \"\\u0120churn\": 28488, \"Econom\": 28489, \"\\u0120capped\": 28490, \"\\u0120Understanding\": 28491, \"\\u0120Hers\": 28492, \"\\u0120Iz\": 28493, \"\\u0120duct\": 28494, \"IENT\": 28495, \"aughty\": 28496, \"\\u0120\\u00e2\\u013e\\u0136\": 28497, \"\\u0120NP\": 28498, \"\\u0120sailing\": 28499, \"Initialized\": 28500, \"\\u0120ted\": 28501, \"\\u0120reactors\": 28502, \"\\u0120Lomb\": 28503, \"\\u0120choke\": 28504, \"\\u0120Worm\": 28505, \"\\u0120admiration\": 28506, \"\\u0120swung\": 28507, \"ensibly\": 28508, \"\\u0120rash\": 28509, \"\\u0120Goals\": 28510, \"\\u0120Important\": 28511, \"Shot\": 28512, \"\\u0120Ras\": 28513, \"\\u0120trainers\": 28514, \"\\u0120Bun\": 28515, \"Working\": 28516, \"\\u0120harmed\": 28517, \"\\u0120Pandora\": 28518, \"\\u0120LTE\": 28519, \"\\u0120mushroom\": 28520, \"\\u0120CHAR\": 28521, \"\\u0120Fee\": 28522, \"\\u0120Moy\": 28523, \"Born\": 28524, \"oliberal\": 28525, \"\\u0120Martial\": 28526, \"\\u0120gentlemen\": 28527, \"\\u0120lingering\": 28528, \"Official\": 28529, \"\\u0120graffiti\": 28530, \"\\u0120Names\": 28531, \"Der\": 28532, \"\\u0120quint\": 28533, \"istrate\": 28534, \"azeera\": 28535, \"\\u0120NOTICE\": 28536, \"\\u0120Florence\": 28537, \"\\u0120payable\": 28538, \"\\u0120depicts\": 28539, \"\\u0120Species\": 28540, \"Heart\": 28541, \"\\u00e2\\u0136\\u0122\\u00e2\\u0136\\u0122\\u00e2\\u0136\\u0122\\u00e2\\u0136\\u0122\\u00e2\\u0136\\u0122\\u00e2\\u0136\\u0122\\u00e2\\u0136\\u0122\\u00e2\\u0136\\u0122\": 28542, \"\\u0120enclosed\": 28543, \"Increases\": 28544, \"Daily\": 28545, \"\\u0120Lis\": 28546, \"\\u0120enactment\": 28547, \"\\u0120Bacon\": 28548, \"\\u0120Steele\": 28549, \"demand\": 28550, \"\\u0120183\": 28551, \"\\u0120mouths\": 28552, \"\\u0120stranded\": 28553, \"\\u0120enhancement\": 28554, \"011\": 28555, \"\\u0120Whats\": 28556, \"\\u0120healed\": 28557, \"eny\": 28558, \"\\u0120Rab\": 28559, \"\\u0120340\": 28560, \"\\u0120Labyrinth\": 28561, \"roach\": 28562, \"\\u0120Yosh\": 28563, \"\\u0120Clippers\": 28564, \"\\u0120concerts\": 28565, \"Internet\": 28566, \"355\": 28567, \"\\u0120stickers\": 28568, \"\\u0120termed\": 28569, \"\\u0120Axe\": 28570, \"\\u0120grandparents\": 28571, \"France\": 28572, \"\\u0120Clim\": 28573, \"\\u0120Uh\": 28574, \"ulic\": 28575, \"\\u0120thrill\": 28576, \"centric\": 28577, \"\\u0120Overview\": 28578, \"\\u0120Conduct\": 28579, \"\\u0120substantive\": 28580, \"\\u0120182\": 28581, \"mur\": 28582, \"\\u0120stray\": 28583, \"\\u0120Coff\": 28584, \"\\u0120repetitive\": 28585, \"\\u0120Forgotten\": 28586, \"\\u0120qualification\": 28587, \"ewitness\": 28588, \"\\u0120Zimbabwe\": 28589, \"\\u0120simulated\": 28590, \"\\u0120JD\": 28591, \"253\": 28592, \"\\u0120Ware\": 28593, \"\\u0120unsc\": 28594, \"Times\": 28595, \"\\u0120summons\": 28596, \"\\u0120disconnected\": 28597, \"\\u0120184\": 28598, \"cius\": 28599, \"\\u0120Gujar\": 28600, \"odka\": 28601, \"\\u0120erase\": 28602, \"\\u0120Tobacco\": 28603, \"elected\": 28604, \"\\u0120uncont\": 28605, \"\\u0120Shepard\": 28606, \"\\u0120Lamp\": 28607, \"\\u0120alerted\": 28608, \"\\u0120operative\": 28609, \"arna\": 28610, \"uint\": 28611, \"\\u0120negligence\": 28612, \"acements\": 28613, \"\\u0120supra\": 28614, \"\\u0120prevail\": 28615, \"\\u0120Shark\": 28616, \"\\u0120belts\": 28617, \"\\u00e3\\u0123\\u00ab\": 28618, \"\\u0120tighter\": 28619, \"Engineers\": 28620, \"\\u0120inactive\": 28621, \"\\u0120exponent\": 28622, \"\\u0120Willie\": 28623, \"aples\": 28624, \"\\u0120heir\": 28625, \"\\u0120Hits\": 28626, \"iann\": 28627, \"\\u0120Says\": 28628, \"\\u0120currents\": 28629, \"\\u0120Bengal\": 28630, \"\\u0120arist\": 28631, \"Buffer\": 28632, \"\\u0120breeze\": 28633, \"\\u0120Wesley\": 28634, \"Cola\": 28635, \"\\u0120pronoun\": 28636, \"\\u0120deed\": 28637, \"\\u0120Kling\": 28638, \"\\u0120oft\": 28639, \"\\u0120inflict\": 28640, \"\\u0120punishing\": 28641, \"\\u0120nm\": 28642, \"iku\": 28643, \"ODUCT\": 28644, \"014\": 28645, \"\\u0120subsidy\": 28646, \"\\u0120DEA\": 28647, \"\\u0120Herbert\": 28648, \"\\u0120Jal\": 28649, \"Bank\": 28650, \"\\u0120deferred\": 28651, \"\\u0120shipment\": 28652, \"Bott\": 28653, \"\\u0120alle\": 28654, \"bearing\": 28655, \"HTML\": 28656, \"Offline\": 28657, \"\\u0120213\": 28658, \"\\u0120scrolling\": 28659, \"\\u0120scanned\": 28660, \"\\u0120Libyan\": 28661, \"\\u0120TOP\": 28662, \"chrom\": 28663, \"dt\": 28664, \"column\": 28665, \"PsyNetMessage\": 28666, \"Zero\": 28667, \"\\u0120torso\": 28668, \"050\": 28669, \"\\u00e2\\u0137\\u0132\": 28670, \"\\u0120imperson\": 28671, \"\\u0120Schwartz\": 28672, \"udic\": 28673, \"\\u0120pissed\": 28674, \"\\u0120Sapp\": 28675, \"257\": 28676, \"\\u0120ISPs\": 28677, \"ogl\": 28678, \"\\u0120supervised\": 28679, \"\\u0120adolescent\": 28680, \"\\u0120attained\": 28681, \"\\u0120Delivery\": 28682, \"\\u0120Bunny\": 28683, \"\\u01201937\": 28684, \"\\u0120miniature\": 28685, \"\\u0120os\": 28686, \"\\u0120370\": 28687, \"608\": 28688, \"\\u0120Mourinho\": 28689, \"\\u0120innate\": 28690, \"\\u0120tempo\": 28691, \"\\u0120NM\": 28692, \"\\u0120Fallen\": 28693, \"009\": 28694, \"\\u0120provocative\": 28695, \"Streamer\": 28696, \"\\u0120Benedict\": 28697, \"\\u0120Bolshe\": 28698, \"\\u0120turtle\": 28699, \"\\u0120PCB\": 28700, \"\\u0120Equal\": 28701, \"Director\": 28702, \"\\u0120Rend\": 28703, \"\\u0120fluids\": 28704, \"Authorities\": 28705, \"\\u0120cousins\": 28706, \"requency\": 28707, \"\\u0120Neighbor\": 28708, \"sets\": 28709, \"shared\": 28710, \"Charles\": 28711, \"password\": 28712, \"\\u0120gears\": 28713, \"\\u0120211\": 28714, \"\\u0120Hardware\": 28715, \"rika\": 28716, \"\\u0120upstream\": 28717, \"Hom\": 28718, \"\\u0120disproportionately\": 28719, \"ivities\": 28720, \"\\u0120undefined\": 28721, \"\\u0120electrons\": 28722, \"\\u0120commemor\": 28723, \"Eventually\": 28724, \"\\u0120><\": 28725, \"\\u0120irresponsible\": 28726, \"218\": 28727, \"\\u0120Released\": 28728, \"\\u0120OVER\": 28729, \"\\u0120IGN\": 28730, \"\\u0120Bread\": 28731, \"stellar\": 28732, \"\\u0120Sage\": 28733, \"tted\": 28734, \"damage\": 28735, \"edition\": 28736, \"\\u0120Prec\": 28737, \"\\u0120lime\": 28738, \"\\u0120confinement\": 28739, \"\\u0120calorie\": 28740, \"weapon\": 28741, \"\\u0120differing\": 28742, \"\\u0120Sina\": 28743, \"mys\": 28744, \"amd\": 28745, \"\\u0120intricate\": 28746, \"kk\": 28747, \"\\u0120PAT\": 28748, \"\\u00c3\\u00a3o\": 28749, \"stones\": 28750, \"links\": 28751, \"\\u0120ranch\": 28752, \"Semitic\": 28753, \"\\u0120differentiate\": 28754, \"\\u0120Singer\": 28755, \"occupied\": 28756, \"\\u0120fortress\": 28757, \"cmd\": 28758, \"\\u0120interception\": 28759, \"\\u0120Ankara\": 28760, \"\\u0120rept\": 28761, \"\\u0120Solitaire\": 28762, \"\\u0120remake\": 28763, \"pred\": 28764, \"\\u0120dared\": 28765, \"autions\": 28766, \"\\u0120BACK\": 28767, \"Running\": 28768, \"\\u0120debugging\": 28769, \"\\u0120graphs\": 28770, \"399\": 28771, \"\\u0120Nigel\": 28772, \"\\u0120bun\": 28773, \"\\u0120pillow\": 28774, \"\\u0120progressed\": 28775, \"fashioned\": 28776, \"\\u0120obedience\": 28777, \"ERN\": 28778, \"\\u0120rehears\": 28779, \"Cell\": 28780, \"tl\": 28781, \"Sher\": 28782, \"\\u0120herald\": 28783, \"\\u0120Payment\": 28784, \"\\u0120Cory\": 28785, \"\\u0120Dept\": 28786, \"\\u0120repent\": 28787, \"\\u0120Weak\": 28788, \"uckland\": 28789, \"\\u0120pleasing\": 28790, \"\\u0120shortages\": 28791, \"\\u0120jurors\": 28792, \"\\u0120Kab\": 28793, \"qqa\": 28794, \"Anti\": 28795, \"\\u0120wow\": 28796, \"\\u0120RCMP\": 28797, \"\\u0120tsun\": 28798, \"\\u0120Sic\": 28799, \"\\u0120comprises\": 28800, \"\\u0120spies\": 28801, \"\\u0120precinct\": 28802, \"nu\": 28803, \"\\u0120urges\": 28804, \"\\u0120timed\": 28805, \"\\u0120stripes\": 28806, \"\\u0120Boots\": 28807, \"\\u0120yen\": 28808, \"Advanced\": 28809, \"\\u0120discrete\": 28810, \"\\u0120Archangel\": 28811, \"employment\": 28812, \"Diff\": 28813, \"\\u0120monuments\": 28814, \"\\u0120209\": 28815, \"worker\": 28816, \"\\u0120196\": 28817, \"\\u0120Ig\": 28818, \"utterstock\": 28819, \"TPS\": 28820, \"Jac\": 28821, \"\\u0120homelessness\": 28822, \"\\u0120commentator\": 28823, \"\\u0120racially\": 28824, \"fing\": 28825, \"seed\": 28826, \"Ele\": 28827, \"ellation\": 28828, \"\\u0120ethanol\": 28829, \"\\u0120parish\": 28830, \"\\u0120Dong\": 28831, \"\\u0120Awakening\": 28832, \"\\u0120deviation\": 28833, \"\\u0120Bearing\": 28834, \"\\u0120Tsuk\": 28835, \"\\u0120recess\": 28836, \"\\u0120lymph\": 28837, \"\\u0120Cannabis\": 28838, \"\\u00e5\\u013e\": 28839, \"\\u0120NEWS\": 28840, \"\\u0120dra\": 28841, \"\\u0120Stefan\": 28842, \"\\u0120Wrong\": 28843, \"\\u0120SAM\": 28844, \"\\u0120loosely\": 28845, \"\\u0120interpreter\": 28846, \"\\u0120Plain\": 28847, \"Government\": 28848, \"\\u0120bigotry\": 28849, \"\\u0120grenades\": 28850, \"avez\": 28851, \"pictured\": 28852, \"\\u0120mandated\": 28853, \"\\u0120Monk\": 28854, \"\\u0120Pedro\": 28855, \"\\u0120lava\": 28856, \"274\": 28857, \"\\u0120cynical\": 28858, \"\\u0120Scrolls\": 28859, \"locks\": 28860, \"Mp\": 28861, \"\\u0120congregation\": 28862, \"ornings\": 28863, \"phil\": 28864, \"\\u0120Ibid\": 28865, \"\\u0120ferv\": 28866, \"\\u0120disappearing\": 28867, \"\\u0120arrogant\": 28868, \"syn\": 28869, \"\\u0120Maver\": 28870, \"\\u0120Suit\": 28871, \"241\": 28872, \"\\u0120abbre\": 28873, \"ackers\": 28874, \"Pa\": 28875, \"\\u0120Yel\": 28876, \"Whenever\": 28877, \"\\u0120235\": 28878, \"\\u0120Vine\": 28879, \"\\u0120Anat\": 28880, \"\\u0120extinct\": 28881, \"LET\": 28882, \"\\u0120executable\": 28883, \"VERS\": 28884, \"oxide\": 28885, \"DNA\": 28886, \"\\u0120Prel\": 28887, \"\\u0120resentment\": 28888, \"\\u0120comprise\": 28889, \"\\u0120Aviv\": 28890, \"\\u0120interceptions\": 28891, \"\\u0120prolific\": 28892, \"INA\": 28893, \"\\u0120Erin\": 28894, \"thought\": 28895, \"219\": 28896, \"\\u0120Psychiatry\": 28897, \"unky\": 28898, \"chemist\": 28899, \"Ho\": 28900, \"\\u0120McCoy\": 28901, \"\\u0120bricks\": 28902, \"Los\": 28903, \"rily\": 28904, \"\\u0120USSR\": 28905, \"\\u0120rud\": 28906, \"\\u0120laud\": 28907, \"\\u0120Wise\": 28908, \"\\u0120Emerald\": 28909, \"\\u0120revived\": 28910, \"\\u0120damned\": 28911, \"\\u0120Repair\": 28912, \"idem\": 28913, \"ctica\": 28914, \"\\u0120patriarch\": 28915, \"\\u0120Nurs\": 28916, \"meg\": 28917, \"\\u0120cheapest\": 28918, \"reements\": 28919, \"empty\": 28920, \"\\u0120Celebr\": 28921, \"\\u0120deprivation\": 28922, \"chanted\": 28923, \"\\u0120Thumbnails\": 28924, \"Energy\": 28925, \"\\u0120Ethan\": 28926, \"\\u0120Qing\": 28927, \"\\u0120opposes\": 28928, \"WIND\": 28929, \"vik\": 28930, \"\\u0120Mau\": 28931, \"\\u0120SUB\": 28932, \"667\": 28933, \"GRE\": 28934, \"\\u0120Volunte\": 28935, \"nton\": 28936, \"Cook\": 28937, \"\\u00e5\\u0132\": 28938, \"esque\": 28939, \"\\u0120plummet\": 28940, \"\\u0120suing\": 28941, \"\\u0120pronounce\": 28942, \"\\u0120resisting\": 28943, \"\\u0120Fishing\": 28944, \"\\u0120Trials\": 28945, \"\\u0120yell\": 28946, \"\\u0120310\": 28947, \"\\u0120induct\": 28948, \"\\u0120personalized\": 28949, \"often\": 28950, \"Reb\": 28951, \"EMBER\": 28952, \"\\u0120viewpoint\": 28953, \"\\u0120existential\": 28954, \"())\": 28955, \"remove\": 28956, \"MENTS\": 28957, \"lasses\": 28958, \"\\u0120evapor\": 28959, \"\\u0120aisle\": 28960, \"meta\": 28961, \"\\u0120reflective\": 28962, \"\\u0120entitlement\": 28963, \"\\u0120devised\": 28964, \"music\": 28965, \"ascade\": 28966, \"\\u0120winding\": 28967, \"offset\": 28968, \"\\u0120accessibility\": 28969, \"kered\": 28970, \"Better\": 28971, \"\\u0120Johnston\": 28972, \"thinking\": 28973, 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\"single\": 29762, \"\\u0120lumin\": 29763, \"\\u0120Fellow\": 29764, \"\\u0120Capacity\": 29765, \"\\u0120Kazakh\": 29766, \"WN\": 29767, \"\\u0120financed\": 29768, \"389\": 29769, \"\\u0120tid\": 29770, \"\\u0120collusion\": 29771, \"\\u0120Myr\": 29772, \"\\u00ee\\u0122\": 29773, \"Senator\": 29774, \"\\u0120pediatric\": 29775, \"\\u0120neatly\": 29776, \"\\u0120sandwiches\": 29777, \"\\u0120Architecture\": 29778, \"\\u0120tucked\": 29779, \"\\u0120balcony\": 29780, \"\\u0120earthquakes\": 29781, \"quire\": 29782, \"Future\": 29783, \"\\u0120hefty\": 29784, \"\\u00e9\\u0139\": 29785, \"\\u0120specializes\": 29786, \"\\u0120stresses\": 29787, \"\\u0120sender\": 29788, \"\\u0120misunderstanding\": 29789, \"\\u0120epile\": 29790, \"\\u0120provoke\": 29791, \"\\u0120Colors\": 29792, \"\\u0120dismay\": 29793, \"uko\": 29794, \"[_\": 29795, \"586\": 29796, \"neutral\": 29797, \"\\u0120donating\": 29798, \"\\u0120Randall\": 29799, \"Multi\": 29800, \"\\u0120conveniently\": 29801, \"\\u0120Sung\": 29802, \"\\u0120Coca\": 29803, \"\\u0120tents\": 29804, \"\\u0120Acceler\": 29805, \"\\u0120partnered\": 29806, \"272\": 29807, \"irming\": 29808, \"\\u0120BAS\": 29809, \"sometimes\": 29810, \"\\u0120objected\": 29811, \"ubric\": 29812, \"posed\": 29813, \"LCS\": 29814, \"grass\": 29815, \"\\u0120attributable\": 29816, \"VIS\": 29817, \"Israeli\": 29818, \"\\u0120repeats\": 29819, \"\\u0120RM\": 29820, \"vag\": 29821, \"uta\": 29822, \"inous\": 29823, \"\\u0120inert\": 29824, \"\\u0120Miguel\": 29825, \"\\u00e6\\u0143\": 29826, \"\\u0120Hawaiian\": 29827, \"Board\": 29828, \"\\u0120artific\": 29829, \"\\u0120Azerbai\": 29830, \"asio\": 29831, \"\\u0120Rent\": 29832, \"AIN\": 29833, \"\\u0120appliances\": 29834, \"\\u0120nationality\": 29835, \"\\u0120asshole\": 29836, \"\\u0120Neb\": 29837, \"\\u0120notch\": 29838, \"hani\": 29839, \"\\u0120Bride\": 29840, \"Availability\": 29841, \"\\u0120intercepted\": 29842, \"\\u0120continental\": 29843, \"\\u0120swelling\": 29844, \"\\u0120Perspect\": 29845, \"bies\": 29846, \".<\": 29847, \"ithmetic\": 29848, \"\\u0120Lara\": 29849, \"\\u0120tempting\": 29850, \"addr\": 29851, \"\\u0120overseeing\": 29852, \"clad\": 29853, \"\\u0120DV\": 29854, \"\\u0120Gingrich\": 29855, \"\\u0120mun\": 29856, \"\\u0120Appropri\": 29857, \"\\u0120alterations\": 29858, \"\\u0120Patreon\": 29859, \"\\u0120havoc\": 29860, \"\\u0120disciplines\": 29861, \"\\u0120notoriously\": 29862, \"akuya\": 29863, \"ieri\": 29864, \"?).\": 29865, \"\\u0120Went\": 29866, \"\\u0120silicon\": 29867, \"\\u0120tremb\": 29868, \"Container\": 29869, \"Known\": 29870, \"\\u0120mortar\": 29871, \"este\": 29872, \"icka\": 29873, \"Arthur\": 29874, \"\\u0120Previously\": 29875, \"\\u0120Marty\": 29876, \"\\u0120sparse\": 29877, \"gins\": 29878, \"\\u0120inward\": 29879, \"\\u0120Participant\": 29880, \"Copy\": 29881, \"\\u0120Misc\": 29882, \"\\u0120antibiotic\": 29883, \"\\u0120Retro\": 29884, \"\\u0120elusive\": 29885, \"\\u0120assail\": 29886, \"\\u0120Battalion\": 29887, \"\\u0120Bought\": 29888, \"\\u0120diminish\": 29889, \"\\u0120Europa\": 29890, \"session\": 29891, \"\\u0120Dangerous\": 29892, \"iesel\": 29893, \"\\u0120disbelief\": 29894, \"\\u0120blasts\": 29895, \"extreme\": 29896, \"\\u0120Boyd\": 29897, \"\\u0120Projects\": 29898, \"\\u0120Guys\": 29899, \"\\u0120undergone\": 29900, \"\\u0120grill\": 29901, \"\\u0120Dwight\": 29902, \"\\u0120197\": 29903, \"USER\": 29904, \"\\u0120filesystem\": 29905, \"\\u0120clocks\": 29906, \"Taylor\": 29907, \"\\u0120wrapper\": 29908, \"\\u0120folding\": 29909, \"ousand\": 29910, \"\\u0120Philippine\": 29911, \"ATIONAL\": 29912, \"\\u0120Perth\": 29913, \"\\u0120ashes\": 29914, \"\\u0120accumulate\": 29915, \"\\u0120Gateway\": 29916, \"Shop\": 29917, \"orkshire\": 29918, \"Han\": 29919, \"\\u0120Barrel\": 29920, \"\\u0120Leh\": 29921, \"\\u0120XV\": 29922, \"\\u0120whim\": 29923, \"\\u0120repo\": 29924, \"\\u0120CG\": 29925, \"\\u0120Mam\": 29926, \"\\u0120incorporating\": 29927, \"\\u0120bailout\": 29928, \"\\u0120linguistic\": 29929, \"\\u0120disinteg\": 29930, \"CLE\": 29931, \"\\u0120cinematic\": 29932, \"\\u0120Fiber\": 29933, \"Syn\": 29934, \"ilion\": 29935, \"\\u0120Compos\": 29936, \"chens\": 29937, \"\\u0120neoc\": 29938, \"\\u0120boiled\": 29939, \"FINE\": 29940, \"ono\": 29941, \"uncle\": 29942, \"iken\": 29943, \"\\u0120BM\": 29944, \"\\u00ce\\u00b9\": 29945, \"\\u0120receipts\": 29946, \"\\u0120disposed\": 29947, \"\\u0120Thirty\": 29948, \"\\u0120Rough\": 29949, \"\\u0120ABS\": 29950, \"\\u0120notwithstanding\": 29951, \"ollen\": 29952, \"#$\": 29953, \"\\u0120unreliable\": 29954, \"\\u0120bloom\": 29955, \"\\u0120mediocre\": 29956, \"\\u0120tram\": 29957, \"\\u0120Tasman\": 29958, \"\\u0120shakes\": 29959, \"\\u0120manifesto\": 29960, \"\\u0120MW\": 29961, \"\\u0120satisfactory\": 29962, \"\\u0120shores\": 29963, \"\\u0120computation\": 29964, \"\\u0120assertions\": 29965, \"ormons\": 29966, \"arag\": 29967, \"abit\": 29968, \"Democrats\": 29969, \"\\u0120Loot\": 29970, \"\\u0120Volks\": 29971, \"haired\": 29972, \"\\u0120gravitational\": 29973, \"Sing\": 29974, \"\\u0120Miz\": 29975, \"\\u0120throttle\": 29976, \"\\u0120tyranny\": 29977, \"\\u0120Views\": 29978, \"\\u0120robber\": 29979, \"\\u0120Minority\": 29980, \"\\u0120shrine\": 29981, \"scope\": 29982, \"purpose\": 29983, \"\\u0120nucleus\": 29984, \"ourcing\": 29985, \"\\u0120USDA\": 29986, \"\\u0120DHS\": 29987, \"wra\": 29988, \"\\u0120Bowie\": 29989, \"Scale\": 29990, \"\\u0120BEL\": 29991, \"xi\": 29992, \"Iter\": 29993, \"\\u0120(),\": 29994, \"wright\": 29995, \"\\u0120sailors\": 29996, \"oused\": 29997, \"NASA\": 29998, \"\\u0120Proof\": 29999, \"\\u0120Mineral\": 30000, \"token\": 30001, \"\\u0120FD\": 30002, \"Rew\": 30003, \"\\u0120ell\": 30004, \"630\": 30005, \"\\u0120chancellor\": 30006, \"\\u0120Gos\": 30007, \"\\u0120amounted\": 30008, \"\\u0120Recre\": 30009, \"omez\": 30010, \"\\u0120Optim\": 30011, \"\\u0120Olive\": 30012, \"\\u0120tracker\": 30013, \"owler\": 30014, \"\\u0120Unique\": 30015, \"Root\": 30016, \"\\u0120maritime\": 30017, \"\\u0120Quran\": 30018, \"\\u0120Adapt\": 30019, \"\\u0120ecosystems\": 30020, \"\\u0120Repeat\": 30021, \"\\u0120Soy\": 30022, \"\\u0120IMP\": 30023, \"\\u0120graduating\": 30024, \"andem\": 30025, \"Pur\": 30026, \"\\u0120Reset\": 30027, \"\\u0120Trick\": 30028, \"\\u0120Philly\": 30029, \"\\u0120Tue\": 30030, \"\\u0120Malaysian\": 30031, \"\\u0120climax\": 30032, \"\\u0120bury\": 30033, \"\\u0120conspic\": 30034, \"\\u0120Southampton\": 30035, \"\\u0120Flowers\": 30036, \"\\u0120escorted\": 30037, \"\\u0120Educational\": 30038, \"\\u0120IRC\": 30039, \"\\u0120brutally\": 30040, \"eating\": 30041, \"\\u0120pillar\": 30042, \"\\u0120Sang\": 30043, \"\\u0120Jude\": 30044, \"arling\": 30045, \"\\u0120Amnesty\": 30046, \"\\u0120reminding\": 30047, \"\\u0120Administrative\": 30048, \"hesda\": 30049, \"\\u0120flashed\": 30050, \"\\u0120PBS\": 30051, \"perate\": 30052, \"feature\": 30053, \"\\u0120swipe\": 30054, \"\\u0120graves\": 30055, \"oultry\": 30056, \"261\": 30057, \"breaks\": 30058, \"\\u0120Guer\": 30059, \"\\u0120shrimp\": 30060, \"\\u0120Voting\": 30061, \"quist\": 30062, \"\\u0120analytical\": 30063, \"\\u0120tablespoons\": 30064, \"\\u0120SOU\": 30065, \"\\u0120researched\": 30066, \"\\u0120disrupted\": 30067, \"\\u0120jour\": 30068, \"\\u0120replica\": 30069, \"\\u0120cartoons\": 30070, \"bians\": 30071, \"})\": 30072, \"copy\": 30073, \"Got\": 30074, \"ouched\": 30075, \"PUT\": 30076, \"\\u0120swarm\": 30077, \"notations\": 30078, \"said\": 30079, \"\\u0120rebuilt\": 30080, \"\\u0120collaborate\": 30081, \"\\u0120raging\": 30082, \"\\u0120nar\": 30083, \"\\u0120demographics\": 30084, \"\\u0120DDR\": 30085, \"\\u0120distrust\": 30086, \"ossier\": 30087, \"\\u0120Kro\": 30088, \"\\u0120pumpkin\": 30089, \"\\u0120regrets\": 30090, \"\\u0120fatalities\": 30091, \"\\u0120Lens\": 30092, \"\\u0120Ole\": 30093, \"pd\": 30094, \"\\u0120puppet\": 30095, \"\\u0120Outlook\": 30096, \"\\u0120Stam\": 30097, \"Ol\": 30098, \"Fair\": 30099, \"UU\": 30100, \"\\u0120rewritten\": 30101, \"\\u00c4\\u00b1\": 30102, \"\\u0120fascinated\": 30103, \"\\u0120vectors\": 30104, \"\\u0120tribunal\": 30105, \"uay\": 30106, \"\\u0120Mats\": 30107, \"\\u0120Coins\": 30108, \"[[\": 30109, \"\\u0120181\": 30110, \"\\u0120renders\": 30111, \"\\u0120Kaepernick\": 30112, \"\\u0120espionage\": 30113, \"\\u0120summ\": 30114, \"\\u0120ditch\": 30115, \"Account\": 30116, \"\\u0120spreadsheet\": 30117, \"\\u0120mutant\": 30118, \"past\": 30119, \"407\": 30120, \"\\u0120dye\": 30121, \"\\u0120initiation\": 30122, \"\\u01204000\": 30123, \"\\u0120punishable\": 30124, \"\\u0120thinner\": 30125, \"\\u0120Khal\": 30126, \"\\u0120intermedi\": 30127, \"Dun\": 30128, \"\\u0120Gotham\": 30129, \"\\u0120eagerly\": 30130, \"\\u0120vaginal\": 30131, \"powers\": 30132, \"VW\": 30133, \"\\u0120WATCHED\": 30134, \"\\u0120predator\": 30135, \"amsung\": 30136, \"\\u0120disparity\": 30137, \"\\u0120[*\": 30138, \"\\u0120amph\": 30139, \"\\u0120outskirts\": 30140, \"\\u0120Spirits\": 30141, \"\\u0120skeletal\": 30142, \"\\u00d0\\u00bb\": 30143, \"\\u0120Rear\": 30144, \"\\u0120issuance\": 30145, \"\\u0120Logic\": 30146, \"released\": 30147, \"ZZ\": 30148, \"\\u0120Bound\": 30149, \"Entry\": 30150, \"\\u0120exits\": 30151, \"isol\": 30152, \"\\u0120Founder\": 30153, \"\\u0120wre\": 30154, \"\\u0120Greenland\": 30155, \"\\u0120MMO\": 30156, \"taker\": 30157, \"INC\": 30158, \"\\u00e3\\u0123\\u00be\": 30159, \"\\u0120hourly\": 30160, \"henko\": 30161, \"\\u0120fantasies\": 30162, \"\\u0120disob\": 30163, \"\\u0120demolition\": 30164, \"\\u00e3\\u0125\\u012d\": 30165, \"\\u0120enlisted\": 30166, \"ratulations\": 30167, \"\\u0120misguided\": 30168, \"\\u0120ensured\": 30169, \"\\u0120discouraged\": 30170, \"mort\": 30171, \"\\u0120flank\": 30172, \"\\u0120cess\": 30173, \"\\u0120reacts\": 30174, \"\\u0120Sere\": 30175, \"sensitive\": 30176, \"\\u0120Serpent\": 30177, \"assad\": 30178, \"\\u0120247\": 30179, \"\\u0120calmly\": 30180, \"busters\": 30181, \"\\u0120bleed\": 30182, \"\\u0120Stro\": 30183, \"\\u0120amusement\": 30184, \"\\u0120Antarctica\": 30185, \"\\u0120scept\": 30186, \"\\u0120Gaw\": 30187, \"aq\": 30188, \"asonic\": 30189, \"\\u0120sprawling\": 30190, \"native\": 30191, \"aturated\": 30192, \"\\u0120Battlefield\": 30193, \"IVERS\": 30194, \"EB\": 30195, \"\\u0120Gems\": 30196, \"\\u0120Northwestern\": 30197, \"\\u0120Films\": 30198, \"\\u0120Automatic\": 30199, \"\\u0120apprehend\": 30200, \"\\u00e3\\u0123\\u00a8\": 30201, \"\\u0120guiName\": 30202, \"\\u0120backend\": 30203, \"\\u0120evidenced\": 30204, \"geant\": 30205, \"012\": 30206, \"\\u0120Siege\": 30207, \"\\u0120externalTo\": 30208, \"\\u0120unfocusedRange\": 30209, \"\\u0120guiActiveUnfocused\": 30210, \"\\u0120guiIcon\": 30211, \"\\u0120externalToEVA\": 30212, \"\\u0120externalToEVAOnly\": 30213, \"Fri\": 30214, \"chard\": 30215, \"enaries\": 30216, \"\\u0120chiefs\": 30217, \"\\u0120cf\": 30218, \"\\u0120HUD\": 30219, \"\\u0120corrobor\": 30220, \"\\u0120dB\": 30221, \"\\u0120Taken\": 30222, \"\\u0120Patricia\": 30223, \"rail\": 30224, \"\\u0120Charm\": 30225, \"\\u0120Libertarian\": 30226, \"rieve\": 30227, \"Personal\": 30228, \"\\u0120OUR\": 30229, \"geries\": 30230, \"\\u0120dumping\": 30231, \"\\u0120neurological\": 30232, \"itimate\": 30233, \"\\u0120Clintons\": 30234, \"rafted\": 30235, \"\\u0120Molly\": 30236, \"\\u0120terminals\": 30237, \"register\": 30238, \"\\u0120flare\": 30239, \"\\u0120encoded\": 30240, \"\\u0120autopsy\": 30241, \"pel\": 30242, \"machine\": 30243, \"\\u0120exemptions\": 30244, \"\\u0120Royals\": 30245, \"distance\": 30246, \"\\u0120drafts\": 30247, \"\\u0120lame\": 30248, \"\\u0120Cunning\": 30249, \"\\u0120spouses\": 30250, \"\\u0120Markets\": 30251, \"\\u0120Carrier\": 30252, \"\\u0120implying\": 30253, \"\\u0120Yak\": 30254, \"sid\": 30255, \"\\u0120loser\": 30256, \"\\u0120vigilant\": 30257, \"\\u0120impeachment\": 30258, \"\\u0120augmented\": 30259, \"\\u0120Employees\": 30260, \"\\u0120unintended\": 30261, \"ternally\": 30262, \"\\u0120Watt\": 30263, \"\\u0120recognizable\": 30264, \"essim\": 30265, \"\\u00e6\\u013f\": 30266, \"\\u0120coated\": 30267, \"rha\": 30268, \"\\u0120lieutenant\": 30269, \"\\u0120Legislation\": 30270, \"published\": 30271, \"444\": 30272, \"013\": 30273, \"\\u0120ideally\": 30274, \"\\u0120Password\": 30275, \"\\u0120simplify\": 30276, \"\\u0120Meta\": 30277, \"\\u0120MRI\": 30278, \"\\u0120pleading\": 30279, \"organized\": 30280, \"handler\": 30281, \"\\u0120unravel\": 30282, \"correct\": 30283, \"\\u0120icy\": 30284, \"\\u0120paranoid\": 30285, \"\\u0120passer\": 30286, \"\\u0120inspections\": 30287, \"ofer\": 30288, \"\\u0120Healthcare\": 30289, \"283\": 30290, \"\\u0120Brut\": 30291, \"iola\": 30292, \"forge\": 30293, \"\\u0120Medieval\": 30294, \"MSN\": 30295, \"ievers\": 30296, \"\\u0120Programming\": 30297, \"\\u00e5\\u012b\": 30298, \"\\u0120223\": 30299, \"mu\": 30300, \"\\u0120CLE\": 30301, \"uga\": 30302, \"\\u0120shoppers\": 30303, \"\\u0120informative\": 30304, \"\\u0120Plans\": 30305, \"\\u0120supplementation\": 30306, \"\\u0120Tests\": 30307, \"tyard\": 30308, \"ocytes\": 30309, \"\\u0120Vega\": 30310, \"\\u0120Gujarat\": 30311, \"ermanent\": 30312, \"Except\": 30313, \"\\u0120LOT\": 30314, \"alla\": 30315, \"\\u0120Cumm\": 30316, \"\\u0120Osw\": 30317, \"\\u0120venom\": 30318, \"\\u0120Debt\": 30319, \"\\u0120DOWN\": 30320, \"\\u0120reunion\": 30321, \"\\u0120muc\": 30322, \"\\u0120Relief\": 30323, \"\\u0120geop\": 30324, \"\\u0120\\u00f0\\u0141\\u013a\": 30325, \"alogue\": 30326, \"Anth\": 30327, \"echo\": 30328, \"\\u0120corros\": 30329, \"\\u0120replication\": 30330, \"\\u0120Blazing\": 30331, \"\\u0120Daughter\": 30332, \"\\u0120inflic\": 30333, \"\\u0120Lindsey\": 30334, \"\\u00d9\\u012a\": 30335, \"284\": 30336, \"Exit\": 30337, \"\\u0120gloom\": 30338, \"TAIN\": 30339, \"\\u0120undermining\": 30340, \"\\u0120advising\": 30341, \"hidden\": 30342, \"\\u0120overflow\": 30343, \"\\u0120gor\": 30344, \"urdue\": 30345, \"\\u0120echoes\": 30346, \"enhagen\": 30347, \"\\u0120impuls\": 30348, \"drug\": 30349, \"cash\": 30350, \"\\u0120async\": 30351, \"\\u0120mirac\": 30352, \"atts\": 30353, \"punk\": 30354, \"\\u0120pivot\": 30355, \"\\u0120Legislative\": 30356, \"\\u0120bloggers\": 30357, \"\\u0120Claw\": 30358, \"sburg\": 30359, \"dyl\": 30360, \"\\u0120Recommend\": 30361, \"\\u0120verte\": 30362, \"\\u0120prohibiting\": 30363, \"\\u0120Panther\": 30364, \"Jonathan\": 30365, \"\\u0120omin\": 30366, \"\\u0120hateful\": 30367, \"281\": 30368, \"\\u0120Orche\": 30369, \"\\u0120Murdoch\": 30370, \"downs\": 30371, \"\\u0120asymm\": 30372, \"GER\": 30373, \"Always\": 30374, \"\\u0120informs\": 30375, \"\\u0120WM\": 30376, \"\\u0120Pony\": 30377, \"\\u0120Appendix\": 30378, \"\\u0120Arlington\": 30379, \"Jam\": 30380, \"\\u0120medicinal\": 30381, \"\\u0120Slam\": 30382, \"ITIES\": 30383, \"\\u0120reaff\": 30384, \"\\u0120Ri\": 30385, \"FG\": 30386, \"Spring\": 30387, \"bool\": 30388, \"\\u0120thighs\": 30389, \"\\u0120markings\": 30390, \"\\u0120Raqqa\": 30391, \"\\u0120Lak\": 30392, \"poll\": 30393, \"tsky\": 30394, \"\\u0120Morty\": 30395, \"\\u0120Definition\": 30396, \"\\u0120debunk\": 30397, \"endered\": 30398, \"\\u0120Leone\": 30399, \"avers\": 30400, \"\\u0120mortgages\": 30401, \"Apparently\": 30402, \"Nic\": 30403, \"haus\": 30404, \"\\u0120Thousands\": 30405, \"auld\": 30406, \"\\u0120mash\": 30407, \"shoot\": 30408, \"\\u0120diarr\": 30409, \"\\u0120consciously\": 30410, \"Hero\": 30411, \"eas\": 30412, \"\\u0120Naturally\": 30413, \"\\u0120Destroyer\": 30414, \"\\u0120dashboard\": 30415, \"services\": 30416, \"Rog\": 30417, \"\\u0120millennials\": 30418, \"\\u0120invade\": 30419, \"-(\": 30420, \"\\u0120commissions\": 30421, \"\\u0120Auckland\": 30422, \"\\u0120broadcasts\": 30423, \"\\u0120frontal\": 30424, \"\\u0120crank\": 30425, \"\\u0120Historic\": 30426, \"\\u0120rumours\": 30427, \"CTV\": 30428, \"\\u0120steril\": 30429, \"\\u0120booster\": 30430, \"rocket\": 30431, \"\\u00e3\\u0124\\u00bc\": 30432, \"utsche\": 30433, \"\\u0120PI\": 30434, \"\\u0120233\": 30435, \"\\u0120Producer\": 30436, \"\\u0120Analytics\": 30437, \"\\u0120invaluable\": 30438, \"\\u0120unintention\": 30439, \"\\u0120CY\": 30440, \"\\u0120scrutin\": 30441, \"\\u0120gigg\": 30442, \"\\u0120engulf\": 30443, \"\\u0120proletariat\": 30444, \"\\u0120hacks\": 30445, \"\\u0120Hew\": 30446, \"arak\": 30447, \"\\u0120Slime\": 30448, \"ielding\": 30449, \"agher\": 30450, \"\\u0120Elliot\": 30451, \"\\u0120telecom\": 30452, \"\\u0120219\": 30453, \"ultan\": 30454, \"\\u0120Arbor\": 30455, \"\\u0120Scouts\": 30456, \"Ban\": 30457, \"\\u0120lifespan\": 30458, \"\\u0120blasp\": 30459, \"388\": 30460, \"\\u0120judiciary\": 30461, \"\\u0120Continental\": 30462, \"asking\": 30463, \"McC\": 30464, \"LED\": 30465, \"\\u0120baggage\": 30466, \"\\u0120Sorcerer\": 30467, \"\\u0120remnants\": 30468, \"\\u0120Griffith\": 30469, \"etsu\": 30470, \"\\u0120Subaru\": 30471, \"\\u0120Personality\": 30472, \"designed\": 30473, \"ushima\": 30474, \"agnar\": 30475, \"\\u0120recoil\": 30476, \"\\u0120passions\": 30477, \"\\\\\\\":\": 30478, \"\\u0120tee\": 30479, \"\\u0120abolition\": 30480, \"\\u0120Creating\": 30481, \"jac\": 30482, \"\\u0120194\": 30483, \"019\": 30484, \"\\u0120pillars\": 30485, \"riched\": 30486, \"/\\\"\": 30487, \"tk\": 30488, \"\\u0120livelihood\": 30489, \"\\u0120roasted\": 30490, \"ahon\": 30491, \"\\u0120Hutch\": 30492, \"assert\": 30493, \"\\u0120dividend\": 30494, \"\\u0120knit\": 30495, \"\\u0120daunting\": 30496, \"\\u0120disturbance\": 30497, \"\\u0120shale\": 30498, \"\\u0120cultivated\": 30499, \"\\u0120refrigerator\": 30500, \"LB\": 30501, \"\\u0120NET\": 30502, \"\\u0120commercials\": 30503, \"\\u0120thinkers\": 30504, \"455\": 30505, \"\\u0120chop\": 30506, \"Broad\": 30507, \"\\u0120suspicions\": 30508, \"\\u0120tagged\": 30509, \"lifting\": 30510, \"\\u0120stylish\": 30511, \"\\u0120Shields\": 30512, \"Shortly\": 30513, \"\\u0120tails\": 30514, \"Auth\": 30515, \"STE\": 30516, \"\\u0120GAME\": 30517, \"\\u0120seism\": 30518, \"\\u0120Kis\": 30519, \"ologne\": 30520, \"\\u0120cowork\": 30521, \"\\u0120forcibly\": 30522, \"\\u0120thyroid\": 30523, \"\\u0120PB\": 30524, \"ANE\": 30525, \"married\": 30526, \"horse\": 30527, \"\\u0120polymer\": 30528, \"\\u0120Chal\": 30529, \"odor\": 30530, \"DEBUG\": 30531, \"\\u0120Context\": 30532, \"\\u0120bliss\": 30533, \"\\u0120pinpoint\": 30534, \"\\u0120Mathemat\": 30535, \"legram\": 30536, \"\\u0120Weekend\": 30537, \"\\u0120labelled\": 30538, \"\\u0120bart\": 30539, \"itles\": 30540, \"\\u0120estrogen\": 30541, 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\"\\u0120sanctioned\": 30572, \"\\u0120culturally\": 30573, \"\\u0120Ara\": 30574, \"Nav\": 30575, \"\\u0120theological\": 30576, \"\\u0120strut\": 30577, \"\\u0120VO\": 30578, \"\\u0120Handbook\": 30579, \"\\u0120constructing\": 30580, \"\\u0120\\u00c2\\u00b6\": 30581, \"\\u0120Benefits\": 30582, \"\\u0120Psychological\": 30583, \"sac\": 30584, \"\\u00e5\\u00b8\": 30585, \"policy\": 30586, \"\\u0120Matters\": 30587, \"\\u0120Reported\": 30588, \"\\u0120Byte\": 30589, \"\\u0120vitro\": 30590, \"\\u0120Maiden\": 30591, \"\\u0120lam\": 30592, \"\\u0120Jennings\": 30593, \"\\u0120garment\": 30594, \"\\u0120Rutgers\": 30595, \"\\u0120Stafford\": 30596, \"\\u0120Wellington\": 30597, \"\\u0120intermitt\": 30598, \"\\u0120npm\": 30599, \"\\u0120ordeal\": 30600, \"\\u0120plugged\": 30601, \"ooming\": 30602, \"inished\": 30603, \"framework\": 30604, \"\\u0120timber\": 30605, \"\\u0120cass\": 30606, \"\\u0120850\": 30607, \"iless\": 30608, \"\\u0120Redux\": 30609, \"768\": 30610, \"Stre\": 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\"\\u0120Companion\": 30653, \"\\u0120disciplined\": 30654, \"\\u0120Yugoslav\": 30655, \"\\u0120Spells\": 30656, \"\\u0120vengeance\": 30657, \"\\u0120landlords\": 30658, \"Len\": 30659, \"\\u0120Ogre\": 30660, \"anoia\": 30661, \"\\u0120piercing\": 30662, \"\\u0120congreg\": 30663, \"\\u0120scorer\": 30664, \"obia\": 30665, \"\\u0120nickel\": 30666, \"\\u0120Learns\": 30667, \"\\u0120rejo\": 30668, \"\\u0120masterpiece\": 30669, \"Flash\": 30670, \"\\u0120inhabited\": 30671, \"\\u0120OpenGL\": 30672, \"\\u0120Dud\": 30673, \"\\u0120ICO\": 30674, \"\\u0120arter\": 30675, \"\\u0120plur\": 30676, \"\\u0120mastery\": 30677, \"\\u0120longstanding\": 30678, \"sted\": 30679, \"\\u0120wines\": 30680, \"\\u0120televised\": 30681, \"\\u0120Shrine\": 30682, \"\\u0120Bayern\": 30683, \"\\u0120\\u00e2\\u0135\\u013a\": 30684, \"\\u0120enclosure\": 30685, \"john\": 30686, \"\\u0120prophets\": 30687, \"\\u0120Resurrection\": 30688, \"\\u0120Orders\": 30689, \"\\u0120uneven\": 30690, \"rals\": 30691, \"\\u0120dwind\": 30692, \"\\u0120Lah\": 30693, \"\\u0120Sloven\": 30694, \"378\": 30695, \"\\u0120insistence\": 30696, \"affle\": 30697, \"\\u0120Clone\": 30698, \"\\u0120hardship\": 30699, \"\\u0120Congressman\": 30700, \"\\u0120plead\": 30701, \"\\u0120reviewers\": 30702, \"\\u0120cured\": 30703, \"\\u01201935\": 30704, \"asley\": 30705, \"fake\": 30706, \"\\u0120Thinking\": 30707, \"ydia\": 30708, \"PART\": 30709, \"\\u0120Dota\": 30710, \"oit\": 30711, \"\\u0120whipped\": 30712, \"\\u0120bouncing\": 30713, \"\\u0120Hispanics\": 30714, \"comings\": 30715, \"\\u0120cannabin\": 30716, \"\\u0120Chambers\": 30717, \"\\u0120Zack\": 30718, \"Optional\": 30719, \"\\u0120coats\": 30720, \"\\u0120prowess\": 30721, \"\\u0120Norton\": 30722, \"\\u0120plainly\": 30723, \"\\u0120freight\": 30724, \"\\u0120inhibition\": 30725, \"\\u0120clam\": 30726, \"\\u0120303\": 30727, \"kef\": 30728, \"aleigh\": 30729, \"Luke\": 30730, \"\\u0120psycho\": 30731, \"atorium\": 30732, \"MED\": 30733, \"\\u0120treaties\": 30734, \"\\u0120indisc\": 30735, \"\\u0120dc\": 30736, \"OPS\": 30737, \"\\u0120resilient\": 30738, \"\\u0120Interstate\": 30739, \"\\u0120slack\": 30740, \"\\u0120mundane\": 30741, \"\\u0120establishes\": 30742, \"359\": 30743, \"\\u0120strained\": 30744, \"\\u0120nond\": 30745, \"Sus\": 30746, \"\\u0120caste\": 30747, \"arate\": 30748, \"ieving\": 30749, \"\\u0120unfairly\": 30750, \"\\u0120parser\": 30751, \"onial\": 30752, \"ursive\": 30753, \"Via\": 30754, \"\\u0120Otto\": 30755, \"\\u0120Authorities\": 30756, \"stroke\": 30757, \"KR\": 30758, \"\\u0120Mercy\": 30759, \"\\u0120furnished\": 30760, \"\\u0120outset\": 30761, \"\\u0120metic\": 30762, \"1982\": 30763, \"olithic\": 30764, \"\\u0120Tent\": 30765, \"ogical\": 30766, \"\\u0120Aircraft\": 30767, \"\\u0120hides\": 30768, \"\\u0120Became\": 30769, \"\\u0120educators\": 30770, \"reaching\": 30771, \"\\u0120volatility\": 30772, \"\\u0120toddler\": 30773, \"\\u0120NASCAR\": 30774, \"\\u0120Twelve\": 30775, \"\\u0120Highlights\": 30776, \"\\u0120grape\": 30777, \"\\u0120splits\": 30778, \"\\u0120peasant\": 30779, \"\\u0120reneg\": 30780, \"\\u0120MSI\": 30781, \"Temp\": 30782, \"stars\": 30783, \"\\u0120trek\": 30784, \"\\u0120Hyde\": 30785, \"binding\": 30786, \"\\u0120realism\": 30787, \"\\u0120oxide\": 30788, \"\\u0120Hos\": 30789, \"\\u0120mounts\": 30790, \"\\u0120biting\": 30791, \"\\u0120collapsing\": 30792, \"\\u0120postal\": 30793, \"\\u0120museums\": 30794, \"\\u0120detached\": 30795, \"\\u0120respecting\": 30796, \"\\u0120monopol\": 30797, \"\\u0120workflow\": 30798, \"\\u0120Cake\": 30799, \"Template\": 30800, \"\\u0120Organisation\": 30801, \"\\u0120persistence\": 30802, \"369\": 30803, \"Coming\": 30804, \"Brad\": 30805, \"\\u0120redundant\": 30806, \"\\u0120GTA\": 30807, \"\\u0120bending\": 30808, \"\\u0120revoked\": 30809, \"\\u0120offending\": 30810, \"\\u0120framing\": 30811, \"\\u0120printf\": 30812, \"Commun\": 30813, \"members\": 30814, \"Outside\": 30815, \"\\u0120construed\": 30816, \"\\u0120coded\": 30817, \"FORE\": 30818, \"\\u0120chast\": 30819, \"Chat\": 30820, \"Indian\": 30821, \"\\u0120Yard\": 30822, \"?!\\\"\": 30823, \"\\u0120Ports\": 30824, \"\\u0120Xavier\": 30825, \"\\u0120RET\": 30826, \"'.\\\"\": 30827, \"\\u0120Boat\": 30828, \"ivated\": 30829, \"icht\": 30830, \"umerable\": 30831, \"Ds\": 30832, \"\\u0120Dunn\": 30833, \"\\u0120coffin\": 30834, \"\\u0120securely\": 30835, \"\\u0120Raptors\": 30836, \"\\u0120Bes\": 30837, \"Installation\": 30838, \"\\u0120inception\": 30839, \"\\u0120Healthy\": 30840, \"endants\": 30841, \"\\u0120psychologists\": 30842, \"\\u0120Sheikh\": 30843, \"cultural\": 30844, \"\\u0120BlackBerry\": 30845, \"shift\": 30846, \"Fred\": 30847, \"oche\": 30848, \"\\u0120cakes\": 30849, \"\\u0120SEO\": 30850, \"\\u0120Gian\": 30851, \"\\u0120Asians\": 30852, \"ogging\": 30853, \"element\": 30854, \"\\u0120pundits\": 30855, \"\\u0120Vaugh\": 30856, \"\\u0120Gavin\": 30857, \"\\u0120hitter\": 30858, \"\\u0120drowned\": 30859, \"\\u0120chalk\": 30860, \"\\u0120Zika\": 30861, \"\\u0120measles\": 30862, \"802\": 30863, \"\\u00e2\\u0122\\u00a6..\": 30864, \"\\u0120AWS\": 30865, \"]\\\"\": 30866, \"\\u0120distort\": 30867, \"\\u0120Mast\": 30868, \"\\u0120antibodies\": 30869, \"\\u0120Mash\": 30870, \"Memory\": 30871, \"\\u0120Uganda\": 30872, \"\\u0120Prob\": 30873, \"\\u0120vomiting\": 30874, \"\\u0120Turns\": 30875, \"\\u0120occupying\": 30876, \"\\u0120evasion\": 30877, \"\\u0120Therapy\": 30878, \"\\u0120promo\": 30879, \"\\u0120electr\": 30880, \"\\u0120blueprint\": 30881, \"\\u0120Dre\": 30882, \"priced\": 30883, \"\\u0120Depot\": 30884, \"\\u0120alleviate\": 30885, \"\\u0120Somali\": 30886, \"marg\": 30887, \"nine\": 30888, \"\\u0120nostalgia\": 30889, \"\\u0120Shepherd\": 30890, \"\\u0120cavalry\": 30891, \"\\u0120torped\": 30892, \"\\u0120Bloody\": 30893, \"xb\": 30894, \"\\u0120sank\": 30895, \"\\u0120goalt\": 30896, \"reportprint\": 30897, \"embedreportprint\": 30898, \"cloneembedreportprint\": 30899, \"\\u0120Initially\": 30900, \"\\u0120Fischer\": 30901, \"\\u0120noteworthy\": 30902, \"cern\": 30903, \"\\u0120inefficient\": 30904, \"rawdownload\": 30905, \"rawdownloadcloneembedreportprint\": 30906, \"cation\": 30907, \"\\u0120Dynasty\": 30908, \"lag\": 30909, \"DES\": 30910, \"\\u0120distinctly\": 30911, \"\\u0120Estonia\": 30912, \"\\u0120openness\": 30913, \"\\u0120gossip\": 30914, \"ruck\": 30915, \"Width\": 30916, \"\\u0120Ibrahim\": 30917, \"\\u0120petroleum\": 30918, \"\\u0120avatar\": 30919, \"\\u0120Hed\": 30920, \"atha\": 30921, \"\\u0120Hogwarts\": 30922, \"\\u0120caves\": 30923, \"678\": 30924, \"\\u0120safeguard\": 30925, \"\\u0120Mog\": 30926, \"isson\": 30927, \"\\u0120Durham\": 30928, \"slaught\": 30929, \"\\u0120Graduate\": 30930, \"\\u0120subconscious\": 30931, \"\\u0120Excellent\": 30932, \"\\u0120Dum\": 30933, \"-----\": 30934, \"\\u0120piles\": 30935, \"\\u0120WORK\": 30936, \"\\u0120Garn\": 30937, \"\\u0120Fol\": 30938, \"\\u0120ATM\": 30939, \"\\u0120avoids\": 30940, \"\\u0120Tul\": 30941, \"\\u0120bleak\": 30942, \"ELY\": 30943, \"ivist\": 30944, \"lightly\": 30945, \"Pers\": 30946, \"\\u0120Dob\": 30947, \"\\u0120LS\": 30948, \"\\u0120insanity\": 30949, \"\\u00ce\\u00b5\": 30950, \"atalie\": 30951, \"Enlarge\": 30952, \"\\u0120twists\": 30953, \"\\u0120faulty\": 30954, \"\\u0120piracy\": 30955, \"\\u0120impover\": 30956, \"\\u0120rugged\": 30957, \"\\u0120Fashion\": 30958, \"\\u0120sands\": 30959, \"'?\": 30960, \"swick\": 30961, \"\\u0120natives\": 30962, \"\\u0120hen\": 30963, \"\\u0120Noise\": 30964, \"\\u00e3\\u0125\\u0139\": 30965, \"\\u0120greens\": 30966, \"\\u0120freezer\": 30967, \"\\u0120dynasty\": 30968, \"\\u0120Fathers\": 30969, \"\\u0120Newark\": 30970, \"\\u0120archaeological\": 30971, \"\\u0120ot\": 30972, \"obar\": 30973, \"\\u0120blockade\": 30974, \"\\u0120allerg\": 30975, \"LV\": 30976, \"\\u0120debit\": 30977, \"\\u0120RFC\": 30978, \"\\u0120Milton\": 30979, \"\\u0120Pressure\": 30980, \"\\u0120willingly\": 30981, \"\\u0120disproportionate\": 30982, \"\\u0120oppressive\": 30983, \"\\u0120diamonds\": 30984, \"\\u0120belongings\": 30985, \"1970\": 30986, \"\\u0120bells\": 30987, \"\\u0120imperialism\": 30988, \"\\u0120227\": 30989, \"\\u0120exploding\": 30990, \"\\u0120Eclipse\": 30991, \"\\u01201919\": 30992, \"\\u0120rant\": 30993, \"\\u0120nominations\": 30994, \"347\": 30995, \"\\u0120peacefully\": 30996, \"rica\": 30997, \"\\u0120FUCK\": 30998, \"\\u0120vibration\": 30999, \"malink\": 31000, \"\\u0120ropes\": 31001, \"\\u0120Ivanka\": 31002, \"\\u0120Brewery\": 31003, \"\\u0120Booker\": 31004, \"\\u0120Owens\": 31005, \"goers\": 31006, \"Services\": 31007, \"\\u0120Snape\": 31008, \"\\u0120191\": 31009, \"395\": 31010, \"\\u0120299\": 31011, \"justice\": 31012, \"\\u0120bri\": 31013, \"\\u0120discs\": 31014, \"\\u0120prominently\": 31015, \"\\u0120vulgar\": 31016, \"\\u0120skipping\": 31017, \"lves\": 31018, \"\\u0120tsunami\": 31019, \"374\": 31020, \"\\u0120Urug\": 31021, \"\\u0120Eid\": 31022, \"recated\": 31023, \"phen\": 31024, \"\\u0120faults\": 31025, \"\\u0120Started\": 31026, \"950\": 31027, \"\\u0120pi\": 31028, \"\\u0120detector\": 31029, \"\\u0120bastard\": 31030, \"\\u0120validated\": 31031, \"SpaceEngineers\": 31032, \"OURCE\": 31033, \"\\u0120(~\": 31034, \"\\u0120unsur\": 31035, \"\\u0120affirmed\": 31036, \"\\u0120fascism\": 31037, \"\\u0120resolving\": 31038, \"\\u0120Chavez\": 31039, \"\\u0120Cyn\": 31040, \"\\u0120detract\": 31041, \"Lost\": 31042, \"\\u0120rigged\": 31043, \"\\u0120homage\": 31044, \"\\u0120Bruno\": 31045, \"555\": 31046, \"eca\": 31047, \"\\u0120presses\": 31048, \"\\u0120humour\": 31049, \"\\u0120spacing\": 31050, \"\\u0120'/\": 31051, \"olkien\": 31052, \"Coun\": 31053, \"OPER\": 31054, \"Tre\": 31055, \"Son\": 31056, \"\\u0120Cambodia\": 31057, \"ierre\": 31058, \"mong\": 31059, \"ozy\": 31060, \"\\u0120liquidity\": 31061, \"\\u0120Soviets\": 31062, \"\\u0120Fernando\": 31063, \"\\u0120229\": 31064, \"\\u0120slug\": 31065, \"\\u0120Catalan\": 31066, \"electric\": 31067, \"\\u0120scenery\": 31068, \"\\u0120Hearth\": 31069, \"\\u0120constrained\": 31070, \"\\u0120goalie\": 31071, \"\\u0120Guidelines\": 31072, \"\\u0120Ammo\": 31073, \"\\u0120Pearson\": 31074, \"\\u0120taxed\": 31075, \"\\u0120fetus\": 31076, \"Response\": 31077, \"\\u0120Alexis\": 31078, \"thia\": 31079, \"Guy\": 31080, \"\\u0120reconstruct\": 31081, \"\\u0120extremes\": 31082, \"\\u0120concluding\": 31083, \"\\u0120Peg\": 31084, \"ooks\": 31085, \"\\u0120deductions\": 31086, \"Rose\": 31087, \"\\u0120groundbreaking\": 31088, \"\\u0120Targ\": 31089, \"\\u00e3\\u0125\\u0123\": 31090, \"\\u0120Reve\": 31091, \"resource\": 31092, \"\\u0120moons\": 31093, \"\\u0120electromagnetic\": 31094, \"\\u0120amidst\": 31095, \"\\u0120Viktor\": 31096, \"NESS\": 31097, \"BACK\": 31098, \"\\u0120commute\": 31099, \"\\u0120Anaheim\": 31100, \"\\u0120fluctuations\": 31101, \"640\": 31102, \"\\u0120noodles\": 31103, \"\\u0120Copenhagen\": 31104, \"\\u0120Tide\": 31105, \"\\u0120Grizz\": 31106, \"\\u0120SEE\": 31107, \"\\u0120pipelines\": 31108, \"\\u0120scars\": 31109, \"endo\": 31110, \"agus\": 31111, \"\\u0120ETF\": 31112, \"/#\": 31113, \"\\u0120Become\": 31114, \"448\": 31115, \"\\u0120visc\": 31116, \"\\u0120Recommended\": 31117, \"\\u0120jumper\": 31118, \"\\u0120cognition\": 31119, \"\\u0120assassin\": 31120, \"\\u0120witnessing\": 31121, \"\\u0120Setup\": 31122, \"\\u0120lac\": 31123, \"vim\": 31124, \"ISM\": 31125, \"pages\": 31126, \"SSL\": 31127, \"358\": 31128, \"\\u0120adject\": 31129, \"industrial\": 31130, \"lore\": 31131, \"chery\": 31132, \"\\u0120glitter\": 31133, \"\\u0120calf\": 31134, \"Florida\": 31135, \"\\u0120spoilers\": 31136, \"\\u0120succeeds\": 31137, \"\\u0120chanting\": 31138, \"\\u0120slogans\": 31139, \"\\u0120Tracy\": 31140, \"Visit\": 31141, \"rology\": 31142, \"\\u0120mornings\": 31143, \"\\u0120lineage\": 31144, \"\\u0120sip\": 31145, \"\\u0120intensely\": 31146, \"\\u0120flourish\": 31147, \"\\u0120Sleeping\": 31148, \"\\u0120Fem\": 31149, \"orpor\": 31150, \"\\u0120Klan\": 31151, \"\\u0120Darth\": 31152, \"hack\": 31153, \"\\u0120Nielsen\": 31154, \"\\u0120tumors\": 31155, \"\\u0120procurement\": 31156, \"\\u0120Yorkshire\": 31157, \"\\u0120raided\": 31158, \"KY\": 31159, \"Anna\": 31160, \"\\u0120//[\": 31161, \"\\u0120Disorder\": 31162, \"\\u0120Mustang\": 31163, \"\\u0120Wen\": 31164, \"\\u0120Trying\": 31165, \"sq\": 31166, \"\\u0120deliveries\": 31167, \"\\u0120shutter\": 31168, \"\\u0120cerebral\": 31169, \"\\u0120bipolar\": 31170, \"\\u0120CN\": 31171, \"lass\": 31172, \"jet\": 31173, \"\\u0120debating\": 31174, \">:\": 31175, \"\\u0120eagle\": 31176, \"grades\": 31177, \"\\u0120Dixon\": 31178, \"UGC\": 31179, \"MAS\": 31180, \"\\u0120Draco\": 31181, \"\\u0120Machines\": 31182, \"affer\": 31183, \"\\u0120eman\": 31184, \"\\u00c2\\u00b2\": 31185, \"pron\": 31186, \"\\u0120Gym\": 31187, \"\\u0120comparatively\": 31188, \"\\u0120Tribunal\": 31189, \"PRO\": 31190, \"\\u0120lex\": 31191, \"\\u0120fertile\": 31192, \"\\u0120depressing\": 31193, \"\\u0120superficial\": 31194, \"essential\": 31195, \"\\u0120Hunters\": 31196, \"gp\": 31197, \"\\u0120prominence\": 31198, \"Liber\": 31199, \"\\u0120Ancest\": 31200, \"otechnology\": 31201, \"\\u0120mocking\": 31202, \"\\u0120Traff\": 31203, \"\\u0138\\u013c\": 31204, \"Medium\": 31205, \"Iraq\": 31206, \"\\u0120psychiatrist\": 31207, \"Quantity\": 31208, \"\\u0120Lect\": 31209, \"\\u0120noisy\": 31210, \"520\": 31211, \"GY\": 31212, \"\\u0120slapped\": 31213, \"\\u0120MTV\": 31214, \"\\u0120para\": 31215, \"pull\": 31216, \"Multiple\": 31217, \"asher\": 31218, \"\\u0120nour\": 31219, \"\\u0120Seg\": 31220, \"Spell\": 31221, \"vous\": 31222, \"ordial\": 31223, \"Senior\": 31224, \"\\u0120Goldberg\": 31225, \"\\u0120Plasma\": 31226, \"need\": 31227, \"\\u0120messenger\": 31228, \"eret\": 31229, \"\\u0120teamed\": 31230, \"\\u0120literacy\": 31231, \"\\u0120Leah\": 31232, \"\\u0120Doyle\": 31233, \"\\u0120emitted\": 31234, \"UX\": 31235, \"\\u0120evade\": 31236, \"\\u0120maze\": 31237, \"\\u0120wrongly\": 31238, \"\\u0120Lars\": 31239, \"\\u0120stereotype\": 31240, \"\\u0120pledges\": 31241, \"\\u0120aroma\": 31242, \"\\u0120MET\": 31243, \"\\u0120acre\": 31244, \"\\u0120OD\": 31245, \"\\u0120ff\": 31246, \"\\u0120breweries\": 31247, \"\\u0120Hilton\": 31248, \"undle\": 31249, \"\\u0120Kak\": 31250, \"\\u0120Thankfully\": 31251, \"\\u0120Canucks\": 31252, \"inctions\": 31253, \"\\u0120Appears\": 31254, \"\\u0120coer\": 31255, \"\\u0120undermined\": 31256, \"rovers\": 31257, \"Andre\": 31258, \"\\u0120blaze\": 31259, \"umers\": 31260, \"\\u0120famine\": 31261, \"amphetamine\": 31262, \"ulkan\": 31263, \"Amount\": 31264, \"\\u0120desperation\": 31265, \"wikipedia\": 31266, \"development\": 31267, \"\\u0120Corinth\": 31268, \"ussia\": 31269, \"Jackson\": 31270, \"LI\": 31271, \"Native\": 31272, \"Rs\": 31273, \"Ohio\": 31274, \"\\u0120Kathleen\": 31275, \"Fortunately\": 31276, \"\\u0120attendant\": 31277, \"\\u0120Preferred\": 31278, \"\\u0120Didn\": 31279, \"\\u0120Vs\": 31280, \"Mis\": 31281, \"\\u0120respondent\": 31282, \"\\u0120boun\": 31283, \"stable\": 31284, \"\\u0120paved\": 31285, \"\\u0120unexpl\": 31286, \"\\u0120Cheney\": 31287, \"LM\": 31288, \"\\u0120Cull\": 31289, \"blown\": 31290, \"\\u0120confronting\": 31291, \"ocese\": 31292, \"serving\": 31293, \"Wi\": 31294, \"\\u0120Lithuania\": 31295, \"anni\": 31296, \"\\u0120stalk\": 31297, \"hd\": 31298, \"\\u0120vener\": 31299, \"APH\": 31300, \"ynchronous\": 31301, \"URR\": 31302, \"umably\": 31303, \"historic\": 31304, \"Half\": 31305, \"Hay\": 31306, \"\\u0120resilience\": 31307, \"spection\": 31308, \"\\u0120abandoning\": 31309, \"Obs\": 31310, \"\\u0120Debbie\": 31311, \"\\u0120gradient\": 31312, \"\\u0120Plaint\": 31313, \"\\u0120Canal\": 31314, \"ARCH\": 31315, \"\\u0120expansive\": 31316, \"\\u0120fung\": 31317, \"\\u0120bounced\": 31318, \"Und\": 31319, \"\\u0120precautions\": 31320, \"\\u0120clarification\": 31321, \"\\u0120dagger\": 31322, \"\\u0120grips\": 31323, \"\\u0120\\u00c2\\u00b5\": 31324, \"\\u0120Rivera\": 31325, \"\\u0120Undead\": 31326, \"isites\": 31327, \"\\u0120FIRST\": 31328, \"\\u00c3\\u00b1o\": 31329, \"audi\": 31330, \"\\u0120hostages\": 31331, \"\\u0120compliant\": 31332, \"\\u0120alumni\": 31333, \"Seven\": 31334, \"\\u0120cybersecurity\": 31335, \"either\": 31336, \"Collect\": 31337, \"\\u0120invariably\": 31338, \"\\u0120Soci\": 31339, \"\\u0120lawmaker\": 31340, \"\\u0120ale\": 31341, \"\\u0120Personally\": 31342, \"Nazi\": 31343, \"\\u0120customization\": 31344, \"\\u0120Proc\": 31345, \"\\u0120Saskatchewan\": 31346, \"eaturing\": 31347, \"\\u0120spared\": 31348, \"\\u0120discontinued\": 31349, \"\\u0120computational\": 31350, \"\\u0120Motorola\": 31351, \"\\u0120supremacist\": 31352, \"governmental\": 31353, \"\\u0120paradise\": 31354, \"\\u0120Downing\": 31355, \"\\u0120Nikon\": 31356, \"\\u0120catalyst\": 31357, \"berra\": 31358, \"Toronto\": 31359, \"875\": 31360, \"beta\": 31361, \"\\u0120Macron\": 31362, \"\\u0120unrealistic\": 31363, \"vector\": 31364, \"\\u0120Vehicles\": 31365, \"itiveness\": 31366, \"\\u0120RV\": 31367, \"\\u0120Colbert\": 31368, \"sin\": 31369, \"oji\": 31370, \"entin\": 31371, \"\\u0120Krish\": 31372, \"hello\": 31373, \"ffield\": 31374, \"oky\": 31375, \"\\u0120Tate\": 31376, \"\\u0120maple\": 31377, \"\\u0120aids\": 31378, \"chemical\": 31379, \"334\": 31380, \"nuts\": 31381, \"\\u0120Warp\": 31382, \"\\u0120xx\": 31383, \"\\u0120Robb\": 31384, \"umerous\": 31385, \"_-_\": 31386, \"ftime\": 31387, \"\\u0120VW\": 31388, \"\\u0120winger\": 31389, \"\\u0120Dome\": 31390, \"tools\": 31391, \"\\u0120PV\": 31392, \"\\u0120Georgetown\": 31393, \"\\u0120geared\": 31394, \"\\u0120jihadists\": 31395, \"\\u0120cp\": 31396, \"\\u0120steroids\": 31397, \"Mother\": 31398, \"clerosis\": 31399, \"\\u0120DRM\": 31400, \"nesia\": 31401, \"\\u0120linger\": 31402, \"\\u0120immersive\": 31403, \"\\u0120COUN\": 31404, \"\\u0120outweigh\": 31405, \"ensual\": 31406, \"Band\": 31407, \"\\u0120transforms\": 31408, \"matched\": 31409, \"psons\": 31410, \"\\u0120Judicial\": 31411, \"factor\": 31412, \"\\u0120referral\": 31413, \"\\u0120oddly\": 31414, \"\\u0120Wenger\": 31415, \"Bring\": 31416, \"\\u0120Bows\": 31417, \"602\": 31418, \"ICLE\": 31419, \"\\u0120lions\": 31420, \"\\u0120Academic\": 31421, \"\\u0120Thorn\": 31422, \"\\u0120Raider\": 31423, \"kefeller\": 31424, \"Storage\": 31425, \"Lower\": 31426, \"\\u0120Ort\": 31427, \"\\u0120Equality\": 31428, \"ALT\": 31429, \"\\u0120SOC\": 31430, \"Types\": 31431, \"\\u0120lyn\": 31432, \"\\u0120Asset\": 31433, \"coat\": 31434, \"TPP\": 31435, \"CVE\": 31436, \"\\u0120Pioneer\": 31437, \"application\": 31438, \"Modern\": 31439, \"\\u0120HK\": 31440, \"Environment\": 31441, \"Alright\": 31442, \"Rain\": 31443, \"IPP\": 31444, \"\\u0120Shiite\": 31445, \"\\u0120mound\": 31446, \"\\u0120Abilities\": 31447, \"condition\": 31448, \"Staff\": 31449, \"\\u0120competence\": 31450, \"\\u0120Moor\": 31451, \"\\u0120Diablo\": 31452, \"\\u0120withheld\": 31453, \"\\u0120ostensibly\": 31454, \"\\u0120Brom\": 31455, \"\\u0120msg\": 31456, \"\\u0120denomin\": 31457, \"\\u0120References\": 31458, \"\\u0120FP\": 31459, \"\\u0120plunged\": 31460, \"\\u0120pamph\": 31461, \"moving\": 31462, \"central\": 31463, \"\\u0120downright\": 31464, \"\\u0120fading\": 31465, \"Tal\": 31466, \"Typ\": 31467, \"\\u0120Thy\": 31468, \"ukes\": 31469, \"ithe\": 31470, \"\\u0120ove\": 31471, \"\\u0120battled\": 31472, \"\\u0120seafood\": 31473, \"\\u0120figur\": 31474, \"\\u0120RD\": 31475, \"crop\": 31476, \"\\u0120squads\": 31477, \"{\\\\\": 31478, \"\\u00e0\\u00b9\": 31479, \"\\u0120Eh\": 31480, \"\\u0120interviewing\": 31481, \"\\u0120Qin\": 31482, \"\\u0120aspiring\": 31483, \"PLIC\": 31484, \"\\u0120clauses\": 31485, \"\\u0120Gast\": 31486, \"\\u0120Nir\": 31487, \"\\u0120luggage\": 31488, \"\\u0120hose\": 31489, \"\\u0120systemd\": 31490, \"\\u0120descending\": 31491, \"\\u0120Revised\": 31492, \"\\u0120Rails\": 31493, \"align\": 31494, \"709\": 31495, \"337\": 31496, \"\\u0120fug\": 31497, \"charging\": 31498, \"tags\": 31499, \"\\u0120uter\": 31500, \"kish\": 31501, \"WARNING\": 31502, \"490\": 31503, \"profits\": 31504, \"\\u0120voyage\": 31505, \"\\u0120ace\": 31506, \"\\u0120Vanguard\": 31507, \"\\u0120Tanks\": 31508, \"\\u0120Muk\": 31509, \"\\u0120226\": 31510, \"Safe\": 31511, \"Armor\": 31512, \"\\u0120volcanic\": 31513, \"\\u0120womb\": 31514, \"\\u0120MIL\": 31515, \"\\u0120beginner\": 31516, \"\\u0120Recogn\": 31517, \"\\u0120AAP\": 31518, \"PLAY\": 31519, \")!\": 31520, \"\\u0120detecting\": 31521, \"cn\": 31522, \"\\u0120breaches\": 31523, \"Basically\": 31524, \"\\u0120Pag\": 31525, \"\\u0120Municipal\": 31526, \"\\u0120Indie\": 31527, \"\\u0120Laf\": 31528, \"\\u0120Disable\": 31529, \"\\u0120Olson\": 31530, \"\\u0120restrained\": 31531, \"\\u0120rulings\": 31532, \"\\u0120humane\": 31533, \"events\": 31534, \"\\u0120Cinema\": 31535, \"displayText\": 31536, \"\\u0120Hatch\": 31537, \"actionDate\": 31538, \"onnaissance\": 31539, \"\\u0120assaulting\": 31540, \"\\u0120Lug\": 31541, \"CHAT\": 31542, \"\\u0120vigorous\": 31543, \"\\u0120Perse\": 31544, \"\\u0120intolerance\": 31545, \"\\u0120Snapchat\": 31546, \"\\u0120Sharks\": 31547, \"\\u0120dummy\": 31548, \"\\u0120Diagn\": 31549, \"\\u0120Guitar\": 31550, \"imeters\": 31551, \"403\": 31552, \"REG\": 31553, \"Ax\": 31554, \"\\u0120separates\": 31555, \"\\u0120Mahm\": 31556, \"\\u0120tv\": 31557, \"jah\": 31558, \"OOL\": 31559, \"Circ\": 31560, \"\\u0120Windsor\": 31561, \"ussian\": 31562, \"\\u0120intuition\": 31563, \"\\u0120disdain\": 31564, \"\\u0120Donovan\": 31565, \"\\u0120221\": 31566, \"Emb\": 31567, \"\\u0120condemning\": 31568, \"\\u0120generosity\": 31569, \"zzy\": 31570, \"\\u0120panties\": 31571, \"\\u0120Prevent\": 31572, \"ActionCode\": 31573, \"ANA\": 31574, \"342\": 31575, \"externalActionCode\": 31576, \"\\u0120specifying\": 31577, \"\\u0120crystall\": 31578, \"Jere\": 31579, \"\\u0120rupt\": 31580, \"\\u0120Apprentice\": 31581, \"\\u0120profiling\": 31582, \"\\u00d0\\u00ba\": 31583, \"Strike\": 31584, \"\\u0120sideline\": 31585, \"\\u0120obligated\": 31586, \"\\u0120occult\": 31587, \"\\u0120bureaucratic\": 31588, \"antically\": 31589, \"rupted\": 31590, \"negative\": 31591, \"\\u0120Ethiopia\": 31592, \"\\u0120Civic\": 31593, \"\\u0120insiders\": 31594, \"eligible\": 31595, \"\\u0120TVs\": 31596, \"\\u0120BAR\": 31597, \"\\u0120TI\": 31598, \"iologist\": 31599, \"\\u0120AIR\": 31600, \"\\u0120substituted\": 31601, \"Arab\": 31602, \"\\u0120Saul\": 31603, \"\\u0120Yog\": 31604, \"prem\": 31605, \"\\u0120builders\": 31606, \"\\u0120stationary\": 31607, \"\\u0120doubtful\": 31608, \"\\u0120vigorously\": 31609, \"\\u0120thrilling\": 31610, \"Physical\": 31611, \"\\u0120Carey\": 31612, \"\\u0120Hydra\": 31613, \"geoning\": 31614, \"\\u0120Sly\": 31615, \"yton\": 31616, \"\\u0120borrowers\": 31617, \"\\u0120Parkinson\": 31618, \"\\u0120\\u00eb\": 31619, \"\\u0120Jamaica\": 31620, \"\\u0120satir\": 31621, \"\\u0120insurgents\": 31622, \"\\u0120Firm\": 31623, \"\\u0120isot\": 31624, \"\\u0120Karn\": 31625, \"ourning\": 31626, \"akens\": 31627, \"docs\": 31628, \"little\": 31629, \"\\u0120Monaco\": 31630, \"CLASS\": 31631, \"Turkey\": 31632, \"Ly\": 31633, \"\\u0120Conan\": 31634, \"assic\": 31635, \"\\u0120starred\": 31636, \"\\u0120Pacers\": 31637, \"eties\": 31638, \"\\u0120tipping\": 31639, \"Moon\": 31640, \"\\u0120Rw\": 31641, \"same\": 31642, \"\\u0120cavity\": 31643, \"\\u0120goof\": 31644, \"\\u0120Zo\": 31645, \"Shock\": 31646, \"ummer\": 31647, \"\\u0120emphasizes\": 31648, \"\\u0120regrett\": 31649, \"\\u0120novelty\": 31650, \"\\u0120envy\": 31651, \"\\u0120Passive\": 31652, \"rw\": 31653, \"505\": 31654, \"\\u0120indifferent\": 31655, \"\\u0120Rica\": 31656, \"\\u0120Himself\": 31657, \"\\u0120Freddie\": 31658, \"\\u0120adip\": 31659, \"\\u00e4\\u00b8\\u0122\": 31660, \"\\u0120breakout\": 31661, \"\\u0120hurried\": 31662, \"\\u0120Huang\": 31663, \"\\u0120Disk\": 31664, \"\\u0120roaming\": 31665, \"?????-?????-\": 31666, \"UV\": 31667, \"\\u0120Ricky\": 31668, \"\\u0120Sigma\": 31669, \"\\u0120marginalized\": 31670, \"\\u0120edits\": 31671, \"\\u0120304\": 31672, \"memory\": 31673, \"\\u0120specimen\": 31674, \"293\": 31675, \"\\u00e3\\u0123\\u00af\": 31676, \"\\u0120vertically\": 31677, \"\\u0120audition\": 31678, \"\\u0120Heck\": 31679, \"\\u0120caster\": 31680, \"\\u0120Holdings\": 31681, \"adal\": 31682, \"\\u0120Cron\": 31683, \"\\u0120Liam\": 31684, \"\\u0120deflect\": 31685, \"Pick\": 31686, \"\\u0120Debug\": 31687, \"REF\": 31688, \"\\u0120versatility\": 31689, \"othes\": 31690, \"classified\": 31691, \"\\u0120Mahar\": 31692, \"\\u0120Hort\": 31693, \"Counter\": 31694, \"stasy\": 31695, \"noticed\": 31696, \"331\": 31697, \"\\u0120Shim\": 31698, \"fuck\": 31699, \"\\u0120Bie\": 31700, \"\\u0120airing\": 31701, \"\\u0120Protein\": 31702, \"\\u0120Holding\": 31703, \"\\u0120spectators\": 31704, \"iliated\": 31705, \"\\u0120Thatcher\": 31706, \"nosis\": 31707, \"\\u00e3\\u0125\\u00bc\\u00e3\\u0125\\u00b3\": 31708, \"Tele\": 31709, \"Boston\": 31710, \"\\u0120Templ\": 31711, \"stay\": 31712, \"\\u0120declarations\": 31713, \"479\": 31714, \"Volume\": 31715, \"\\u0120Designer\": 31716, \"\\u0120Overwatch\": 31717, \"idae\": 31718, \"\\u0120onwards\": 31719, \"\\u0120nets\": 31720, \"\\u0120Manila\": 31721, \"particularly\": 31722, \"\\u0120politic\": 31723, \"oother\": 31724, \"\\u0120portraits\": 31725, \"\\u0120pavement\": 31726, \"cffff\": 31727, \"\\u0120saints\": 31728, \"\\u0120beginners\": 31729, \"ESPN\": 31730, \"\\u0120shortcomings\": 31731, \"\\u00e2\\u0137\\u0132\\u00e2\\u0137\\u0132\": 31732, \"\\u0120comet\": 31733, \"\\u0120Organic\": 31734, \"quel\": 31735, \"\\u0120hospitalized\": 31736, \"Break\": 31737, \"\\u0120peel\": 31738, \"dylib\": 31739, \"aspx\": 31740, \"urances\": 31741, \"\\u0120TIM\": 31742, \"Pg\": 31743, \"\\u0120readable\": 31744, \"\\u0120Malik\": 31745, \"\\u0120muzzle\": 31746, \"\\u0120benchmarks\": 31747, \"dal\": 31748, \"\\u0120Vacc\": 31749, \"\\u0120Hicks\": 31750, \"609\": 31751, \"\\u0120Biblical\": 31752, \"heng\": 31753, \"\\u0120overload\": 31754, \"\\u0120Civilization\": 31755, \"\\u0120immoral\": 31756, \"\\u0120fries\": 31757, \"\\u00e3\\u0124\\u0134\": 31758, \"\\u0120reproduced\": 31759, \"\\u0120formulation\": 31760, \"jug\": 31761, \"irez\": 31762, \"gear\": 31763, \"\\u0120coached\": 31764, \"MpServer\": 31765, \"\\u0120SJ\": 31766, \"\\u0120Kw\": 31767, \"Init\": 31768, \"deal\": 31769, \"\\u0120Oro\": 31770, \"\\u0120Loki\": 31771, \"\\u0120Songs\": 31772, \"\\u0120232\": 31773, \"\\u0120Louise\": 31774, \"asionally\": 31775, \"\\u0120uncond\": 31776, \"ollywood\": 31777, \"\\u0120progressives\": 31778, \"\\u0120Enough\": 31779, \"\\u0120Doe\": 31780, \"\\u0120wreckage\": 31781, \"\\u0120brushed\": 31782, \"\\u0120BaseType\": 31783, \"\\u0120zoning\": 31784, \"ishable\": 31785, \"hetically\": 31786, \"\\u0120Caucus\": 31787, \"\\u0120Hue\": 31788, \"\\u0120karma\": 31789, \"\\u0120Sporting\": 31790, \"\\u0120trader\": 31791, \"\\u0120seeming\": 31792, \"\\u0120Capture\": 31793, \"430\": 31794, \"bish\": 31795, \"\\u0120tunes\": 31796, \"\\u0120indoors\": 31797, \"\\u0120Sphere\": 31798, \"\\u0120Dancing\": 31799, \"TERN\": 31800, \"\\u0120nob\": 31801, \"\\u0120GST\": 31802, \"maps\": 31803, \"\\u0120peppers\": 31804, \"Fit\": 31805, \"\\u0120oversees\": 31806, \"\\u0120Rabbi\": 31807, \"\\u0120Ruler\": 31808, \"vertising\": 31809, \"office\": 31810, \"xxx\": 31811, \"\\u0120raft\": 31812, \"Changed\": 31813, \"\\u0120textbooks\": 31814, \"Links\": 31815, \"\\u0120Omn\": 31816, \"\\u00e3\\u0122\\u0133\": 31817, \"\\u0120inconvenience\": 31818, \"\\u0120Donetsk\": 31819, \"=~\": 31820, \"\\u0120implicitly\": 31821, \"\\u0120boosts\": 31822, \"\\u0120Bones\": 31823, \"\\u0120Boom\": 31824, \"Courtesy\": 31825, \"\\u0120sensational\": 31826, \"ANY\": 31827, \"\\u0120greedy\": 31828, \"eden\": 31829, \"\\u0120inexper\": 31830, \"\\u0120Ler\": 31831, \"\\u0120Vale\": 31832, \"\\u0120tighten\": 31833, \"\\u0120EAR\": 31834, \"\\u0120Num\": 31835, \"\\u0120ancestor\": 31836, \"Sent\": 31837, \"\\u0120Horde\": 31838, \"urgical\": 31839, \"allah\": 31840, \"\\u0120sap\": 31841, \"amba\": 31842, \"\\u0120Spread\": 31843, \"twitch\": 31844, \"\\u0120grandson\": 31845, \"\\u0120fracture\": 31846, \"\\u0120moderator\": 31847, \"\\u0120Seventh\": 31848, \"\\u0120Reverse\": 31849, \"\\u0120estimation\": 31850, \"Choose\": 31851, \"\\u0120parach\": 31852, \"\\u0120barric\": 31853, \"\\u00e3\\u0122\\u0132\": 31854, \"\\u0120compass\": 31855, \"\\u0120allergic\": 31856, \"\\u00e2\\u0122\\u0137\": 31857, \"OTHER\": 31858, \"errilla\": 31859, \"\\u0120wagon\": 31860, \"\\u0120zinc\": 31861, \"\\u0120rubbed\": 31862, \"\\u0120Fuller\": 31863, \"\\u0120Luxembourg\": 31864, \"\\u0120Hoover\": 31865, \"\\u0120liar\": 31866, \"\\u0120Evening\": 31867, \"\\u0120Cobb\": 31868, \"esteem\": 31869, \"\\u0120selector\": 31870, \"\\u0120Brawl\": 31871, \"isance\": 31872, \"\\u0120Ek\": 31873, \"\\u0120troop\": 31874, \"\\u0120guts\": 31875, \"\\u0120Appeal\": 31876, \"\\u0120Tibetan\": 31877, \"\\u0120routines\": 31878, \"\\u0120Ment\": 31879, \"\\u0120summarized\": 31880, \"steamapps\": 31881, \"\\u0120tranqu\": 31882, \"\\u01201929\": 31883, \"oran\": 31884, \"\\u0120Authent\": 31885, \"\\u0120gmaxwell\": 31886, \"\\u0120apprehens\": 31887, \"\\u0120poems\": 31888, \"\\u0120sausage\": 31889, \"\\u0120Webster\": 31890, \"urus\": 31891, \"\\u0120themed\": 31892, \"\\u0120lounge\": 31893, \"\\u0120charger\": 31894, \"Spoiler\": 31895, \"\\u0120spilled\": 31896, \"hog\": 31897, \"\\u0120Sunder\": 31898, \"\\u0120Ain\": 31899, \"\\u0120Angry\": 31900, \"\\u0120disqual\": 31901, \"\\u0120Frequency\": 31902, \"\\u0120Ethernet\": 31903, \"\\u0120helper\": 31904, \"Percent\": 31905, \"\\u0120horrifying\": 31906, \"\\u0120ail\": 31907, \"\\u0120Allan\": 31908, \"EEE\": 31909, \"\\u0120Crossing\": 31910, \"449\": 31911, \"\\u0120holog\": 31912, \"\\u0120Puzzles\": 31913, \"\\u0120Goes\": 31914, \"erenn\": 31915, \"604\": 31916, \"\\u00e3\\u0123\\u0131\": 31917, \"\\u0120Rafael\": 31918, \"\\u0120atten\": 31919, \"\\u0120Emanuel\": 31920, \"\\u0120upro\": 31921, \"\\u0120Susp\": 31922, \"Psych\": 31923, \"\\u0120Trainer\": 31924, \"\\u0120NES\": 31925, \"\\u0120Hunts\": 31926, \"becue\": 31927, \"\\u0120counselor\": 31928, \"Rule\": 31929, \"\\u0120toxins\": 31930, \"\\u0120banners\": 31931, \"rifice\": 31932, \"\\u0120greeting\": 31933, \"\\u0120frenzy\": 31934, \"\\u0120allocate\": 31935, \"\\u0120*)\": 31936, \"expr\": 31937, \"503\": 31938, \"\\u0120Chick\": 31939, \"\\u0120Torn\": 31940, \"\\u0120consolidation\": 31941, \"\\u0120Fletcher\": 31942, \"switch\": 31943, \"frac\": 31944, \"clips\": 31945, \"\\u0120McKin\": 31946, \"\\u0120Lunar\": 31947, \"Month\": 31948, \"ITCH\": 31949, \"\\u0120scholarly\": 31950, \"raped\": 31951, \"398\": 31952, \"\\u01201910\": 31953, \"\\u0120egreg\": 31954, \"\\u0120insecure\": 31955, \"\\u0120victorious\": 31956, \"cffffcc\": 31957, \"\\u0120singled\": 31958, \"\\u0120elves\": 31959, \"\\u0120Wond\": 31960, \"burst\": 31961, \"\\u0120camoufl\": 31962, \"\\u0120BLACK\": 31963, \"\\u0120conditioned\": 31964, \"\\u00e7\\u012b\": 31965, \"answered\": 31966, \"\\u0120compulsory\": 31967, \"ascist\": 31968, \"\\u0120podcasts\": 31969, \"\\u0120Frankfurt\": 31970, \"bnb\": 31971, \"\\u0120neoliberal\": 31972, \"\\u0120Keyboard\": 31973, \"\\u0120Belle\": 31974, \"warm\": 31975, \"\\u0120trusts\": 31976, \"\\u0120insured\": 31977, \"\\u0120Bucc\": 31978, \"usable\": 31979, \"607\": 31980, \"\\u0120Plains\": 31981, \"\\u01201890\": 31982, \"\\u0120sabotage\": 31983, \"\\u0120lodged\": 31984, \"felt\": 31985, \"\\u0120ga\": 31986, \"\\u0120Narc\": 31987, \"\\u0120Salem\": 31988, \"\\u0120seventy\": 31989, \"\\u0120Blank\": 31990, \"pocket\": 31991, \"\\u0120whisper\": 31992, \"\\u0120mating\": 31993, \"omics\": 31994, \"\\u0120Salman\": 31995, \"\\u0120Kad\": 31996, \"\\u0120angered\": 31997, \"\\u0120collisions\": 31998, \"\\u0120extraordinarily\": 31999, \"\\u0120coercion\": 32000, \"Ghost\": 32001, \"birds\": 32002, \"\\u00e8\\u0122\": 32003, \"kok\": 32004, \"\\u0120permissible\": 32005, \"avorable\": 32006, \"\\u0120pointers\": 32007, \"\\u0120dissip\": 32008, \"aci\": 32009, \"\\u0120theatrical\": 32010, \"\\u0120Cosmic\": 32011, \"\\u0120forgetting\": 32012, \"\\u0120finalized\": 32013, \"\\u00e5\\u00a4\\u00a7\": 32014, \"yout\": 32015, \"library\": 32016, \"\\u0120booming\": 32017, \"\\u0120Believe\": 32018, \"\\u0120Teacher\": 32019, \"\\u0120Liv\": 32020, \"\\u0120GOODMAN\": 32021, \"\\u0120Dominican\": 32022, \"ORED\": 32023, \"\\u0120Parties\": 32024, \"\\u0120precipitation\": 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\"\\u0120Pablo\": 33185, \"Ja\": 33186, \"cester\": 33187, \"\\u0120fearing\": 33188, \"\\u0120Prayer\": 33189, \"\\u0120escalated\": 33190, \"GW\": 33191, \"\\u0120robe\": 33192, \"\\u0120Brighton\": 33193, \"acists\": 33194, \"\\u0120Symphony\": 33195, \"\\u0120Dwarf\": 33196, \"\\u0120Parade\": 33197, \"\\u0120Lego\": 33198, \"\\u0120inexpl\": 33199, \"\\u0120lords\": 33200, \"leaf\": 33201, \"RAG\": 33202, \"liber\": 33203, \"\\u0120cigars\": 33204, \"\\u0120Jehovah\": 33205, \"606\": 33206, \"WINDOWS\": 33207, \"\\u0120Liberia\": 33208, \"ebus\": 33209, \"Heavy\": 33210, \"\\u0120lubric\": 33211, \"\\u0120RW\": 33212, \"anguages\": 33213, \"\\u0120narrowed\": 33214, \"computer\": 33215, \"\\u0120Ember\": 33216, \"\\u0120murdering\": 33217, \"\\u0120downstream\": 33218, \"\\u0120Tuls\": 33219, \"\\u0120Tables\": 33220, \"Topic\": 33221, \"\\u0120Accuracy\": 33222, \"=/\": 33223, \"lost\": 33224, \"\\u0120Rei\": 33225, \"\\u0120progresses\": 33226, \"bear\": 33227, 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\"\\u00c2\\u0142\\u00c2\\u0142\\u00c2\\u0142\": 33477, \"\\u0120ABOUT\": 33478, \"within\": 33479, \"\\u0120mk\": 33480, \"Bul\": 33481, \"\\u0120Fake\": 33482, \"\\u0120draconian\": 33483, \"Wa\": 33484, \"helm\": 33485, \"\\u0120Terran\": 33486, \"erville\": 33487, \"\\u0120commonplace\": 33488, \"SIZE\": 33489, \"\\u0120\\\"<\": 33490, \"replace\": 33491, \"ographs\": 33492, \"\\u0120SELECT\": 33493, \"incible\": 33494, \"\\u0120Mostly\": 33495, \"\\u0120Sheffield\": 33496, \"\\u0120IDE\": 33497, \"uggle\": 33498, \"\\u0120citations\": 33499, \"hurst\": 33500, \"\\u0120Unix\": 33501, \"\\u0120unleash\": 33502, \"\\u0120Piper\": 33503, \"\\u0120Nano\": 33504, \"\\u0120succumb\": 33505, \"\\u0120reluctance\": 33506, \"\\u01202500\": 33507, \"\\u0120Merchant\": 33508, \"\\u0120wiret\": 33509, \"\\u0120combos\": 33510, \"\\u0120Birthday\": 33511, \"\\u0120charcoal\": 33512, \"\\u0120UPS\": 33513, \"\\u0120Fairfax\": 33514, \"\\u0120driveway\": 33515, \"\\u0120Tek\": 33516, \"\\u0120Pitch\": 33517, \"overe\": 33518, \"\\u0120technicians\": 33519, \"\\u0120Actual\": 33520, \"flation\": 33521, \"\\u0120Fiscal\": 33522, \"\\u0120Empty\": 33523, \"anamo\": 33524, \"\\u0120magnesium\": 33525, \"\\u0120slut\": 33526, \"\\u0120growers\": 33527, \"Investigators\": 33528, \"():\": 33529, \"\\u0120Satellite\": 33530, \"\\u0120Keynes\": 33531, \"missive\": 33532, \"lane\": 33533, \"\\u0120borough\": 33534, \"344\": 33535, \"\\u0120TEAM\": 33536, \"\\u0120Bethesda\": 33537, \"CV\": 33538, \"hower\": 33539, \"\\u0120RAD\": 33540, \"\\u0120chant\": 33541, \"\\u0120Riy\": 33542, \"\\u0120compositions\": 33543, \"\\u0120mildly\": 33544, \"\\u0120meddling\": 33545, \"\\u0120agility\": 33546, \"aneers\": 33547, \"501\": 33548, \"\\u0120synth\": 33549, \"linger\": 33550, \"291\": 33551, \"\\u0120exclaimed\": 33552, \"Party\": 33553, \"\\u0120contamin\": 33554, \"\\u0120Manor\": 33555, \"\\u0120Respond\": 33556, \"\\u0120praising\": 33557, \"\\u0120manners\": 33558, \"fleet\": 33559, \"Summer\": 33560, \"\\u0120Lynd\": 33561, \"\\u0120Definitely\": 33562, \"grim\": 33563, \"\\u0120bowling\": 33564, \"stri\": 33565, \"\\u00e7\\u013d\": 33566, \"ynt\": 33567, \"\\u0120mandates\": 33568, \"DIV\": 33569, \"\\u0120reconcile\": 33570, \"views\": 33571, \"\\u0120Damon\": 33572, \"vette\": 33573, \"Flo\": 33574, \"\\u0120Greatest\": 33575, \"ilon\": 33576, \"icia\": 33577, \"\\u0120portrayal\": 33578, \"\\u0120cushion\": 33579, \"504\": 33580, \"1979\": 33581, \"ossal\": 33582, \"Applic\": 33583, \"scription\": 33584, \"\\u0120mitigation\": 33585, \"ATS\": 33586, \"pac\": 33587, \"\\u0120erased\": 33588, \"\\u0120deficiencies\": 33589, \"\\u0120Hollande\": 33590, \"\\u0120Xu\": 33591, \"\\u0120bred\": 33592, \"\\u0120pregnancies\": 33593, \"femin\": 33594, \"\\u0120emph\": 33595, \"\\u0120planners\": 33596, \"\\u0120outper\": 33597, \"uttering\": 33598, \"\\u0120perpetrator\": 33599, \"\\u0120motto\": 33600, \"\\u0120Ellison\": 33601, \"\\u0120NEVER\": 33602, \"\\u0120admittedly\": 33603, \"ARI\": 33604, \"\\u0120Azerbaijan\": 33605, \"\\u0120millisec\": 33606, \"\\u0120combustion\": 33607, \"\\u0120Bottle\": 33608, \"\\u0120Lund\": 33609, \"\\u0120Ps\": 33610, \"\\u0120Dress\": 33611, \"\\u0120fabricated\": 33612, \"\\u0120battered\": 33613, \"\\u0120sidel\": 33614, \"\\u0120Notting\": 33615, \"Foreign\": 33616, \"\\u0120Jerome\": 33617, \"020\": 33618, \"\\u0120Arbit\": 33619, \"\\u0120knots\": 33620, \"\\u0120RIGHT\": 33621, \"Moving\": 33622, \"\\u00e3\\u0123\\u013b\": 33623, \"\\u0120surgeries\": 33624, \"\\u0120courthouse\": 33625, \"\\u0120mastered\": 33626, \"\\u0120hovering\": 33627, \"\\u0120Bran\": 33628, \"\\u0120Alison\": 33629, \"\\u0120safest\": 33630, \"military\": 33631, \"\\u0120bullied\": 33632, \"\\u0120barrage\": 33633, \"Reader\": 33634, \"ESE\": 33635, \"\\u0120Geographic\": 33636, \"Tools\": 33637, \"314\": 33638, \"\\u0120Geek\": 33639, \"roth\": 33640, \"glers\": 33641, \"\\u0120FIN\": 33642, \"\\u00cf\\u0123\": 33643, \"\\u0120Aston\": 33644, \"altern\": 33645, \"488\": 33646, \"\\u0120veterin\": 33647, \"Gamer\": 33648, \"\\u0120intel\": 33649, \"renches\": 33650, \"Shield\": 33651, \"\\u0120amnesty\": 33652, \"\\u0120Bhar\": 33653, \"\\u0120piled\": 33654, \"\\u0120honorable\": 33655, \"\\u0120Institutes\": 33656, \"\\u0120soaked\": 33657, \"\\u0120coma\": 33658, \"\\u0120EFF\": 33659, \"341\": 33660, \"bytes\": 33661, \"\\u0120Gmail\": 33662, \"lein\": 33663, \"\\u0120Canadiens\": 33664, \"material\": 33665, \"Il\": 33666, \"\\u0120instructors\": 33667, \"\\u0120KY\": 33668, \"\\u0120conceive\": 33669, \"ubb\": 33670, \"\\u0120Possible\": 33671, \"\\u0120easing\": 33672, \"\\u0120Christina\": 33673, \"\\u0120caric\": 33674, \"\\u0120HDR\": 33675, \"ROM\": 33676, \"\\u0120shovel\": 33677, \"delete\": 33678, \"\\u0120puff\": 33679, \"\\u0120Changing\": 33680, \"\\u0120seamlessly\": 33681, \"Attribute\": 33682, \"\\u0120acquisitions\": 33683, \"akery\": 33684, \"\\u0120EF\": 33685, \"\\u0120autistic\": 33686, \"\\u0120Takes\": 33687, \"\\u0120Powder\": 33688, \"\\u0120Stir\": 33689, \"510\": 33690, \"\\u0120Bubble\": 33691, \"settings\": 33692, \"\\u0120Fowler\": 33693, \"\\u0120mustard\": 33694, \"\\u0120moreover\": 33695, \"\\u0120copyrighted\": 33696, \"\\u0120LEDs\": 33697, \"1500\": 33698, \"\\u00e6\\u012b\": 33699, \"\\u0120HIS\": 33700, \"enf\": 33701, \"\\u0120custod\": 33702, \"\\u0120Huck\": 33703, \"Gi\": 33704, \"\\u0120img\": 33705, \"Answer\": 33706, \"Ct\": 33707, \"jay\": 33708, \"\\u0120Infrastructure\": 33709, \"\\u0120federally\": 33710, \"Loc\": 33711, \"\\u0120microbes\": 33712, \"\\u0120overrun\": 33713, \"dds\": 33714, \"otent\": 33715, \"adiator\": 33716, \">>>>>>>>\": 33717, \"\\u0120tornado\": 33718, \"\\u0120adjud\": 33719, \"\\u0120intrigued\": 33720, \"\\u0120si\": 33721, \"\\u0120Revelation\": 33722, \"progress\": 33723, \"\\u0120burglary\": 33724, \"\\u0120Saiyan\": 33725, \"\\u0120Kathy\": 33726, \"\\u0120serpent\": 33727, \"\\u0120Andreas\": 33728, \"\\u0120compel\": 33729, \"essler\": 33730, \"\\u0120Plastic\": 33731, \"\\u0120Advent\": 33732, \"\\u0120Positive\": 33733, \"\\u0120Qt\": 33734, \"\\u0120Hindus\": 33735, \"registered\": 33736, \"ularity\": 33737, \"\\u0120righteousness\": 33738, \"\\u0120demonic\": 33739, \"uitive\": 33740, \"\\u0120BDS\": 33741, \"\\u0120Gregg\": 33742, \"cia\": 33743, \"\\u0120Crusade\": 33744, \"\\u0120Sinai\": 33745, \"WARE\": 33746, \"+(\": 33747, \"\\u0120mell\": 33748, \"\\u0120derail\": 33749, \"yards\": 33750, \"Ast\": 33751, \"\\u0120noticeably\": 33752, \"\\u0120Ober\": 33753, \"Ram\": 33754, \"\\u0120unnoticed\": 33755, \"\\u0120seq\": 33756, \"avage\": 33757, \"Ts\": 33758, \"\\u0120640\": 33759, \"\\u0120concede\": 33760, \"\\u0120])\": 33761, \"Fill\": 33762, \"\\u0120captivity\": 33763, \"\\u0120Improvement\": 33764, \"\\u0120Crusader\": 33765, \"araoh\": 33766, \"MAP\": 33767, \"\\u00e6\\u0139\": 33768, \"\\u0120stride\": 33769, \"always\": 33770, \"Fly\": 33771, \"Nit\": 33772, \"\\u0120algae\": 33773, \"\\u0120Cooking\": 33774, \"\\u0120Doors\": 33775, \"Malley\": 33776, \"\\u0120policemen\": 33777, \"\\u00e3\\u0123\\u012f\": 33778, \"\\u0120astronaut\": 33779, \"accessible\": 33780, \"495\": 33781, \"\\u0120RAW\": 33782, \"cliffe\": 33783, \"udicrous\": 33784, \"\\u0120depended\": 33785, \"alach\": 33786, \"\\u0120ventures\": 33787, \"rake\": 33788, \"\\u0120tits\": 33789, \"\\u0120Hou\": 33790, \"\\u0120condom\": 33791, \"ormonal\": 33792, \"\\u0120indent\": 33793, \"\\u0120uploading\": 33794, \"Footnote\": 33795, \"Important\": 33796, \"\\u0120271\": 33797, \"\\u0120mindful\": 33798, \"\\u0120contends\": 33799, \"Cra\": 33800, \"\\u0120calibr\": 33801, \"\\u0120OECD\": 33802, \"plugin\": 33803, \"Fat\": 33804, \"\\u0120ISS\": 33805, \"\\u0120Dynamics\": 33806, \"ansen\": 33807, \"686\": 33808, \"'),\": 33809, \"\\u0120sprite\": 33810, \"\\u0120handheld\": 33811, \"\\u0120Hipp\": 33812, \"=~=~\": 33813, \"Trust\": 33814, \"\\u0120semantics\": 33815, \"\\u0120Bundes\": 33816, \"\\u0120Reno\": 33817, \"\\u0120Literature\": 33818, \"sense\": 33819, \"Gary\": 33820, \"\\u0120Aeg\": 33821, \"\\u0120Trin\": 33822, \"EEK\": 33823, \"\\u0120cleric\": 33824, \"\\u0120SSH\": 33825, \"\\u0120christ\": 33826, \"\\u0120invading\": 33827, \"ibu\": 33828, \"\\u0120enum\": 33829, \"aura\": 33830, \"\\u0120allege\": 33831, \"\\u0120Incredible\": 33832, \"BBC\": 33833, \"\\u0120thru\": 33834, \"\\u0120sailed\": 33835, \"\\u0120emulate\": 33836, \"\\u0120insecurity\": 33837, \"\\u0120crou\": 33838, \"\\u0120accommodations\": 33839, \"\\u0120incompetent\": 33840, \"\\u0120slips\": 33841, \"\\u0120Earthqu\": 33842, \"sama\": 33843, \"ILLE\": 33844, \"\\u0120iPhones\": 33845, \"asaki\": 33846, \"\\u0120bye\": 33847, \"\\u0120ard\": 33848, \"\\u0120extras\": 33849, \"\\u0120slaughtered\": 33850, \"\\u0120crowdfunding\": 33851, \"resso\": 33852, \"\\u0120filib\": 33853, \"\\u0120ERROR\": 33854, \"\\u0120TLS\": 33855, \"egg\": 33856, \"\\u0120Ital\": 33857, \"\\u0120enlist\": 33858, \"\\u0120Catalonia\": 33859, \"\\u0120Scots\": 33860, \"\\u0120sergeant\": 33861, \"\\u0120dissolve\": 33862, \"NH\": 33863, \"\\u0120standings\": 33864, \"rique\": 33865, \"IQ\": 33866, \"\\u0120beneficiary\": 33867, \"\\u0120aquarium\": 33868, \"YouTube\": 33869, \"\\u0120PowerShell\": 33870, \"\\u0120brightest\": 33871, \"\\u0120Warrant\": 33872, \"Sold\": 33873, \"Writing\": 33874, \"\\u0120beginnings\": 33875, \"\\u0120Reserved\": 33876, \"\\u0120Latinos\": 33877, \"heading\": 33878, \"\\u0120440\": 33879, \"\\u0120rooftop\": 33880, \"ATING\": 33881, \"\\u0120390\": 33882, \"VPN\": 33883, \"Gs\": 33884, \"kernel\": 33885, \"turned\": 33886, \"\\u0120preferable\": 33887, \"\\u0120turnovers\": 33888, \"\\u0120Hels\": 33889, \"Sa\": 33890, \"\\u0120Shinji\": 33891, \"veh\": 33892, \"\\u0120MODULE\": 33893, \"Viol\": 33894, \"\\u0120exiting\": 33895, \"\\u0120jab\": 33896, \"\\u0120Vanilla\": 33897, \"\\u0120acron\": 33898, \"\\u0120Gap\": 33899, \"bern\": 33900, \"Ak\": 33901, \"\\u0120McGu\": 33902, \"\\u0120endlessly\": 33903, \"\\u0120Farage\": 33904, \"\\u0120Noel\": 33905, \"Va\": 33906, \"MK\": 33907, \"\\u0120brute\": 33908, \"\\u0120Kru\": 33909, \"\\u0120ESV\": 33910, \"\\u0120Olivia\": 33911, \"\\u00e2\\u0122\\u0142\": 33912, \"\\u0120Kaf\": 33913, \"\\u0120trusting\": 33914, \"\\u0120hots\": 33915, \"324\": 33916, \"\\u0120malaria\": 33917, \"\\u0120json\": 33918, \"\\u0120pounding\": 33919, \"ortment\": 33920, \"Country\": 33921, \"\\u0120postponed\": 33922, \"\\u0120unequiv\": 33923, \"?),\": 33924, \"\\u0120Rooney\": 33925, \"udding\": 33926, \"\\u0120Leap\": 33927, \"urrence\": 33928, \"shapeshifter\": 33929, \"\\u0120HAS\": 33930, \"osate\": 33931, \"\\u0120cavern\": 33932, \"\\u0120conservatism\": 33933, \"\\u0120BAD\": 33934, \"\\u0120mileage\": 33935, \"\\u0120arresting\": 33936, \"Vaults\": 33937, \"\\u0120mixer\": 33938, \"Democratic\": 33939, \"\\u0120Benson\": 33940, \"\\u0120authored\": 33941, \"8000\": 33942, \"\\u0120proactive\": 33943, \"\\u0120Spiritual\": 33944, \"tre\": 33945, \"\\u0120incarcerated\": 33946, \"\\u0120Sort\": 33947, \"\\u0120peaked\": 33948, \"\\u0120wielding\": 33949, \"reciation\": 33950, \"\\u00d7\\u013b\\u00d7\": 33951, \"Patch\": 33952, \"\\u0120Emmy\": 33953, \"\\u0120exqu\": 33954, \"tto\": 33955, \"\\u0120Ratio\": 33956, \"\\u0120Picks\": 33957, \"\\u0120Gry\": 33958, \"phant\": 33959, \"\\u0120fret\": 33960, \"\\u0120ethn\": 33961, \"\\u0120archived\": 33962, \"%-\": 33963, \"cases\": 33964, \"\\u0120Blaze\": 33965, \"\\u0120imb\": 33966, \"cv\": 33967, \"yss\": 33968, \"imony\": 33969, \"\\u0120countdown\": 33970, \"\\u0120awakening\": 33971, \"\\u0120Tunisia\": 33972, \"\\u0120Refer\": 33973, \"\\u0120MJ\": 33974, \"\\u0120unnatural\": 33975, \"\\u0120Carnegie\": 33976, \"izen\": 33977, \"\\u0120Nuggets\": 33978, \"hess\": 33979, \"\\u0120evils\": 33980, \"647\": 33981, \"\\u0120introductory\": 33982, \"loving\": 33983, \"\\u0120McMahon\": 33984, \"\\u0120ambiguity\": 33985, \"Label\": 33986, \"\\u0120Almighty\": 33987, \"\\u0120coloring\": 33988, \"\\u0120Claus\": 33989, \"setting\": 33990, \"NULL\": 33991, \"\\u0120Favorite\": 33992, \"\\u0120SIG\": 33993, \">(\": 33994, \"\\u0120Shiva\": 33995, \"\\u0120Mayer\": 33996, \"\\u0120stormed\": 33997, \"\\u0120Coverage\": 33998, \"weapons\": 33999, \"igham\": 34000, \"\\u0120unanswered\": 34001, \"\\u0120leve\": 34002, \"\\u0120coy\": 34003, \"cas\": 34004, \"bags\": 34005, \"asured\": 34006, \"Seattle\": 34007, \"\\u0120Santorum\": 34008, \"serious\": 34009, \"\\u0120courageous\": 34010, \"\\u0120Soup\": 34011, \"\\u0120confiscated\": 34012, \"\\u0120///\": 34013, \"\\u0120unconventional\": 34014, \"\\u0120moms\": 34015, \"\\u0120Rohingya\": 34016, \"\\u0120Orchestra\": 34017, \"\\u0120Potion\": 34018, \"\\u0120discredit\": 34019, \"\\u0120FIL\": 34020, \"fixed\": 34021, \"\\u0120Deer\": 34022, \"doi\": 34023, \"\\u0120Dimension\": 34024, \"\\u0120bureaucrats\": 34025, \"eteen\": 34026, \"\\u0120actionGroup\": 34027, \"ohm\": 34028, \"\\u0120bumps\": 34029, \"\\u0120Utility\": 34030, \"\\u0120submarines\": 34031, \"renheit\": 34032, \"research\": 34033, \"\\u0120Shapiro\": 34034, \"\\u0120sketches\": 34035, \"\\u0120deceptive\": 34036, \"\\u0120Vil\": 34037, \"esame\": 34038, \"\\u0120Essentially\": 34039, \"\\u0120rampage\": 34040, \"isky\": 34041, \"\\u0120muttered\": 34042, \"thritis\": 34043, \"\\u0120236\": 34044, \"fet\": 34045, \"bars\": 34046, \"\\u0120pupil\": 34047, \"\\u0120Thou\": 34048, \"oS\": 34049, \"song\": 34050, \"\\u0120fractured\": 34051, \"\\u0120revert\": 34052, \"picture\": 34053, \"\\u0120criterion\": 34054, \"usher\": 34055, \"\\u0120repercussions\": 34056, \"\\u0120Vintage\": 34057, \"\\u0120Superintendent\": 34058, \"Officers\": 34059, \"\\u0120flagged\": 34060, \"\\u0120blames\": 34061, \"\\u0120inverse\": 34062, \"ographers\": 34063, \"\\u0120makeshift\": 34064, \"\\u0120devoid\": 34065, \"\\u0120fossils\": 34066, \"\\u0120Aristotle\": 34067, \"\\u0120Funds\": 34068, \"\\u0120depleted\": 34069, \"\\u0120Flu\": 34070, \"\\u0120Yuan\": 34071, \"\\u0120woes\": 34072, \"\\u0120lipid\": 34073, \"\\u0120situ\": 34074, \"requisites\": 34075, \"\\u0120furnish\": 34076, \"\\u0120Samar\": 34077, \"\\u0120shameful\": 34078, \"\\u0120adversely\": 34079, \"\\u0120adept\": 34080, \"\\u0120remorse\": 34081, \"\\u0120murderous\": 34082, \"uckles\": 34083, \"\\u0120ESL\": 34084, \"\\u0120314\": 34085, \"sent\": 34086, \"\\u0120redef\": 34087, \"\\u0120Cache\": 34088, \"\\u0120Purs\": 34089, \"igans\": 34090, \"\\u0120460\": 34091, \"\\u0120prescriptions\": 34092, \"\\u0120fres\": 34093, \"Fuck\": 34094, \"ocrates\": 34095, \"Twenty\": 34096, \"\\u0120Weird\": 34097, \"\\u0120Toggle\": 34098, \"\\u0120Called\": 34099, \"itizens\": 34100, \"\\u0120poultry\": 34101, \"\\u0120harvesting\": 34102, \"\\u00e3\\u0124\\u00a6\\u00e3\\u0124\\u00b9\": 34103, \"Bottom\": 34104, \"\\u0120cautioned\": 34105, \"tn\": 34106, \"396\": 34107, \"\\u0120Nikki\": 34108, \"\\u0120evaluations\": 34109, \"\\u0120harassing\": 34110, \"\\u0120bindings\": 34111, \"\\u0120Monetary\": 34112, \"\\u0120hitters\": 34113, \"\\u0120adversary\": 34114, \"unts\": 34115, \"\\u0120setback\": 34116, \"\\u0120encrypt\": 34117, \"\\u0120Cait\": 34118, \"\\u0120lows\": 34119, \"enges\": 34120, \"\\u0120Norn\": 34121, \"\\u0120bulbs\": 34122, \"\\u0120bottled\": 34123, \"\\u0120Voyager\": 34124, \"317\": 34125, \"\\u0120spheres\": 34126, \"politics\": 34127, \"\\u0120subtract\": 34128, \"\\u0120sensations\": 34129, \"\\u0120appalling\": 34130, \"\\u0120316\": 34131, \"\\u0120environmentally\": 34132, \"\\u0120STEM\": 34133, \"\\u0120publishes\": 34134, \"560\": 34135, \"\\u0120diligence\": 34136, \"484\": 34137, \"\\u0120advises\": 34138, \"\\u0120petrol\": 34139, \"\\u0120imagining\": 34140, \"\\u0120patrols\": 34141, \"\\u0120Integer\": 34142, \"\\u0120Ashes\": 34143, \"actus\": 34144, \"\\u0120Radiant\": 34145, \"\\u0120LT\": 34146, \"itability\": 34147, \"htaking\": 34148, \"Setting\": 34149, \"\\u0120nuanced\": 34150, \"\\u0120Reef\": 34151, \"\\u0120Developers\": 34152, \"Ni\": 34153, \"pieces\": 34154, \"990\": 34155, \"License\": 34156, \"\\u0120lowers\": 34157, \"\\u0120Ottoman\": 34158, \"327\": 34159, \"ooo\": 34160, \"\\u0120quitting\": 34161, \"markets\": 34162, \"Behind\": 34163, \"\\u0120basin\": 34164, \"\\u0120docs\": 34165, \"anie\": 34166, \"flash\": 34167, \"ctl\": 34168, \"\\u0120civilized\": 34169, \"\\u0120Fukushima\": 34170, \"\\\"],\\\"\": 34171, \"\\u0120KS\": 34172, \"\\u0120Honestly\": 34173, \"arat\": 34174, \"\\u0120constructs\": 34175, \"\\u0120Lans\": 34176, \"\\u0120Dire\": 34177, \"\\u0120LIKE\": 34178, \"\\u0120Trouble\": 34179, \"\\u0120withholding\": 34180, \"\\u0120Oblivion\": 34181, \"\\u0120sanity\": 34182, \"anya\": 34183, \"Const\": 34184, \"\\u0120grocer\": 34185, \"\\u0120Celsius\": 34186, \"\\u0120recounted\": 34187, \"\\u0120Wife\": 34188, \"Border\": 34189, \"atered\": 34190, \"happy\": 34191, \"\\u0120spoiler\": 34192, \"\\u0120logically\": 34193, \"Hall\": 34194, \"\\u0120succeeding\": 34195, \"\\u0120polymorph\": 34196, \"\\u0120axes\": 34197, \"\\u0120Shotgun\": 34198, \"\\u0120Slim\": 34199, \"\\u0120Principles\": 34200, \"\\u0120Leth\": 34201, \"arta\": 34202, \"\\u0120scor\": 34203, \"Screenshot\": 34204, \"\\u0120relaxation\": 34205, \"#$#$\": 34206, \"\\u0120deterrent\": 34207, \"iddy\": 34208, \"\\u0120powerless\": 34209, \"\\u0120lesbians\": 34210, \"\\u0120chords\": 34211, \"\\u0120Edited\": 34212, \"selected\": 34213, \"\\u0120separatists\": 34214, \"0002\": 34215, \"\\u0120airspace\": 34216, \"\\u0120turnaround\": 34217, \"\\u0120cunning\": 34218, \"PATH\": 34219, \"Poly\": 34220, \"\\u0120bombed\": 34221, \"\\u0120tion\": 34222, \"xs\": 34223, \"\\u0120withhold\": 34224, \"\\u0120waged\": 34225, \"\\u0120Liberties\": 34226, \"Flag\": 34227, \"\\u0120comforting\": 34228, \"454\": 34229, \"\\u0120Iris\": 34230, \"arers\": 34231, \"\\u0120rag\": 34232, \"\\u0120relocated\": 34233, \"\\u0120Guarant\": 34234, \"\\u0120strategically\": 34235, \"\\u0120gamma\": 34236, \"uberty\": 34237, \"\\u0120Lockheed\": 34238, \"gres\": 34239, \"\\u0120grilled\": 34240, \"\\u0120Lowe\": 34241, \"stats\": 34242, \"\\u0120Rocks\": 34243, \"\\u0120sensing\": 34244, \"\\u0120renting\": 34245, \"\\u0120Geological\": 34246, \"\\u00d8\\u00a7\\u00d8\": 34247, \"otrop\": 34248, \"\\u0120sew\": 34249, \"\\u0120improperly\": 34250, \"486\": 34251, \"\\u0120\\u00e2\\u0138\\u0142\": 34252, \"\\u0120starving\": 34253, \"\\u0120Bj\": 34254, \"Discussion\": 34255, \"328\": 34256, \"\\u0120Combo\": 34257, \"\\u0120Fixes\": 34258, \"NAT\": 34259, \"\\u0120striving\": 34260, \"thora\": 34261, \"\\u0120harvested\": 34262, \"\\u0120Ping\": 34263, \"\\u0120playful\": 34264, \"\\u0120avenues\": 34265, \"\\u0120occupational\": 34266, \"\\u0120wakes\": 34267, 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\"\\u0120Idol\": 34392, \"ilers\": 34393, \"hemoth\": 34394, \"\\u0120Fav\": 34395, \"\\u0120intrusion\": 34396, \"\\u0120carrots\": 34397, \"\\u0120Layer\": 34398, \"\\u0120Hacker\": 34399, \"\\u0120----------------\": 34400, \"\\u0120moderation\": 34401, \"\\u00e9\\u0123\": 34402, \"ococ\": 34403, \"\\u0120characterize\": 34404, \"\\u0120Teresa\": 34405, \"\\u0120socioeconomic\": 34406, \"\\u0120perk\": 34407, \"\\u0120Participation\": 34408, \"training\": 34409, \"\\u0120Paulo\": 34410, \"phys\": 34411, \"\\u0120trustworthy\": 34412, \"\\u0120embodied\": 34413, \"\\u0120Merch\": 34414, \"currency\": 34415, \"\\u0120Priority\": 34416, \"\\u0120teasing\": 34417, \"\\u0120absorbing\": 34418, \"\\u0120unfinished\": 34419, \"\\u0120Comparison\": 34420, \"\\u0120disple\": 34421, \"writers\": 34422, \"\\u0120professions\": 34423, \"\\u0120Penguin\": 34424, \"\\u0120angrily\": 34425, \"\\u0120LINK\": 34426, \"688\": 34427, \"\\u0120Correspond\": 34428, \"\\u0120prevailed\": 34429, 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\"\\u0120connectors\": 34472, \"\\u00e3\\u0125\\u013a\\u00e3\\u0125\\u00a9\": 34473, \"\\u0120Kazakhstan\": 34474, \"dominated\": 34475, \"\\u0120sugars\": 34476, \"imble\": 34477, \"\\u0120Panic\": 34478, \"\\u0120Demand\": 34479, \"\\u0120Colony\": 34480, \"onen\": 34481, \"\\u0120MER\": 34482, \"775\": 34483, \"uria\": 34484, \"azaar\": 34485, \"\\u0120Degree\": 34486, \"Pri\": 34487, \"\\u0120sunshine\": 34488, \"\\u0120251\": 34489, \"\\u0120psychedelic\": 34490, \"\\u0120digitally\": 34491, \"\\u0120Braun\": 34492, \"\\u0120shimmer\": 34493, \"\\u0120shave\": 34494, \"\\u0120Telesc\": 34495, \"\\u0120Astral\": 34496, \"\\u0120Venezuelan\": 34497, \"\\u0120OG\": 34498, \"\\u0120crawling\": 34499, \"Integ\": 34500, \"\\u0120Feather\": 34501, \"\\u0120unfolding\": 34502, \"\\u0120appropriation\": 34503, \"\\u0120\\u00e8\\u00a3\\u0131\\u00e8\": 34504, \"\\u0120Mobility\": 34505, \"\\u0120Ney\": 34506, \"-.\": 34507, \"bilt\": 34508, \"LIN\": 34509, \"\\u0120Tube\": 34510, 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34595, \"\\u0120friendships\": 34596, \"\\u0120Ard\": 34597, \"\\u0120231\": 34598, \"\\u0120Rubin\": 34599, \"\\u0120Distance\": 34600, \"\\u0120spurred\": 34601, \"\\u0120dossier\": 34602, \"\\u0120overlooking\": 34603, \"\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\": 34604, \"Forest\": 34605, \"\\u0120Comes\": 34606, \"\\\\\\\",\": 34607, \"\\u0120Iranians\": 34608, \"\\u0120fixtures\": 34609, \"Laughs\": 34610, \"\\u0120curry\": 34611, \"\\u0120Kingston\": 34612, \"\\u0120squash\": 34613, \"\\u0120catalogue\": 34614, \"\\u0120abnormalities\": 34615, \"\\u0120digestive\": 34616, \".........\": 34617, \"\\u0120subordinate\": 34618, \"ogly\": 34619, \"\\u0120249\": 34620, \"Middle\": 34621, \"\\u0120massac\": 34622, \"\\u0120burgers\": 34623, \"\\u0120downstairs\": 34624, \"\\u01201931\": 34625, \"394\": 34626, \"\\u0120VG\": 34627, \"\\u0120lasers\": 34628, \"\\u0120Sikh\": 34629, \"\\u0120Alexa\": 34630, \"derived\": 34631, \"\\u0120cyclist\": 34632, \"\\u00e3\\u0123\\u00ae\\u00e9\\u0143\\u0136\": 34633, \"oneliness\": 34634, \"!!!!!!!!\": 34635, \"\\u0120buffs\": 34636, \"legate\": 34637, \"\\u0120raping\": 34638, \"\\u0120recommending\": 34639, \"rored\": 34640, \"\\u0120multicultural\": 34641, \"unique\": 34642, \"\\u0120businessmen\": 34643, \"\\u0120uneasy\": 34644, \"\\u0120MAP\": 34645, \"\\u0120dispersed\": 34646, \"cipline\": 34647, \"Jess\": 34648, \"\\u0120Kerala\": 34649, \"\\u00e5\\u00a7\": 34650, \"\\u0120abstraction\": 34651, \"Surv\": 34652, \"Uh\": 34653, \"\\u0120printers\": 34654, \"ija\": 34655, \"owder\": 34656, \"\\u0120analogous\": 34657, \"\\u0120ASP\": 34658, \"afer\": 34659, \"\\u0120unfolded\": 34660, \"\\u0120leveling\": 34661, \"\\u0120breached\": 34662, \"\\u0120Hearing\": 34663, \"\\u0120nat\": 34664, \"\\u0120translating\": 34665, \"critical\": 34666, \"\\u0120antagonist\": 34667, \"\\u0120Yesterday\": 34668, \"\\u0120fuzzy\": 34669, \"wash\": 34670, \"mere\": 34671, \"\\u0120bewild\": 34672, 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\"\\u0120vivo\": 34714, \"ruly\": 34715, \"460\": 34716, \"\\u0120Amen\": 34717, \"rehensible\": 34718, \"\\u0120\\u00e2\\u013a\": 34719, \"DIR\": 34720, \"\\u0120adherence\": 34721, \"\\u0120chew\": 34722, \"\\u0120Coke\": 34723, \"\\u0120Sergei\": 34724, \"digital\": 34725, \"\\u0120Neck\": 34726, \"gently\": 34727, \"enthal\": 34728, \"/)\": 34729, \"\\u0120weary\": 34730, \"\\u0120guise\": 34731, \"\\u0120Concord\": 34732, \"\\u0120Onion\": 34733, \"atcher\": 34734, \"\\u0120binge\": 34735, \"\\u0120Directive\": 34736, \"\\u0120manned\": 34737, \"ansk\": 34738, \"\\u0120illusions\": 34739, \"\\u0120billionaires\": 34740, \"383\": 34741, \"olyn\": 34742, \"odynamic\": 34743, \"\\u0120Wheat\": 34744, \"\\u0120Alic\": 34745, \"\\u0120coloured\": 34746, \"\\u0120NAFTA\": 34747, \"abo\": 34748, \"\\u0120macros\": 34749, \"independent\": 34750, \"sweet\": 34751, \"\\u0120spac\": 34752, \"\\u0120Kabul\": 34753, \"\\u0120\\u00c4\": 34754, \"eme\": 34755, \"\\u0120dictated\": 34756, \"\\u0120shouts\": 34757, \"={\": 34758, \"\\u0120ripping\": 34759, \"\\u0120Shay\": 34760, \"\\u0120Cricket\": 34761, \"directed\": 34762, \"\\u0120analysed\": 34763, \"\\u0120WARRANT\": 34764, \"agons\": 34765, \"\\u0120Blazers\": 34766, \"\\u0120cheered\": 34767, \"\\u0120arithmetic\": 34768, \"\\u0120Tanz\": 34769, \"373\": 34770, \"\\u0120Flags\": 34771, \"\\u0120295\": 34772, \"\\u0120witches\": 34773, \"\\u0120Included\": 34774, \"\\u0120Gained\": 34775, \"\\u0120Blades\": 34776, \"Gam\": 34777, \"\\u0120Samantha\": 34778, \"\\u0120Atlantis\": 34779, \"\\u0120Pratt\": 34780, \"\\u0120spoiled\": 34781, \"\\u0120IB\": 34782, \"\\u0120Ramirez\": 34783, \"Probably\": 34784, \"rero\": 34785, \"\\u0120Ng\": 34786, \"\\u0120Warlock\": 34787, \"tp\": 34788, \"\\u0120overhe\": 34789, \"\\u0120administrations\": 34790, \"\\u0120tint\": 34791, \"\\u0120regiment\": 34792, \"\\u0120pistols\": 34793, \"\\u0120blankets\": 34794, \"\\u0120epist\": 34795, \"\\u0120bowls\": 34796, \"\\u0120hydraulic\": 34797, \"\\u0120dean\": 34798, \"\\u0120jung\": 34799, \"\\u0120ascend\": 34800, \"705\": 34801, \"\\u0120Santiago\": 34802, \"\\u00c3\\u00ae\": 34803, \"\\u0120unavoid\": 34804, \"\\u0120Shaman\": 34805, \"reb\": 34806, \"\\u0120stemming\": 34807, \"998\": 34808, \"\\u0120MG\": 34809, \"sticks\": 34810, \"esthesia\": 34811, \"ERO\": 34812, \"\\u0120morbid\": 34813, \"\\u0120Grill\": 34814, \"\\u0120Poe\": 34815, \"anyl\": 34816, \"\\u0120deleting\": 34817, \"\\u0120Surveillance\": 34818, \"\\u0120directives\": 34819, \"\\u0120iterations\": 34820, \"\\u0120Rox\": 34821, \"\\u0120Milky\": 34822, \"Father\": 34823, \"\\u0120patented\": 34824, \"447\": 34825, \"\\u0120precursor\": 34826, \"\\u0120maiden\": 34827, \"\\u0120Phen\": 34828, \"\\u0120Vegan\": 34829, \"\\u0120Patent\": 34830, \"Kelly\": 34831, \"Redditor\": 34832, \"\\u0120nods\": 34833, \"\\u0120ventilation\": 34834, \"\\u0120Schwarz\": 34835, \"\\u0120wizards\": 34836, \"\\u0120ominous\": 34837, \"\\u0120Heads\": 34838, \"\\u0120BG\": 34839, \"\\u0120lumber\": 34840, \"\\u0120Spiel\": 34841, \"\\u0120isEnabled\": 34842, \"\\u0120ancestral\": 34843, \"\\u0120Ships\": 34844, \"\\u0120wrestler\": 34845, \"phi\": 34846, \"\\u0120yuan\": 34847, \"\\u0120Rebellion\": 34848, \"\\u0120iceberg\": 34849, \"\\u0120magically\": 34850, \"\\u0120diversion\": 34851, \"arro\": 34852, \"ythm\": 34853, \"\\u0120Riders\": 34854, \"\\u0120Robbie\": 34855, \"\\u0120Kara\": 34856, \"\\u0120Maintenance\": 34857, \"\\u0120Herb\": 34858, \"\\u0120harms\": 34859, \"packed\": 34860, \"\\u0120Feinstein\": 34861, \"\\u0120marrying\": 34862, \"\\u0120blending\": 34863, \"\\u0120Rates\": 34864, \"\\u01201880\": 34865, \"\\u0120wrink\": 34866, \"\\u0120Unch\": 34867, \"\\u0120Torch\": 34868, \"described\": 34869, \"\\u0120humanoid\": 34870, \"ilitating\": 34871, \"\\u0120Conv\": 34872, \"\\u0120Feld\": 34873, \"IGHTS\": 34874, \"\\u0120whistleblower\": 34875, \"ortmund\": 34876, \"etsy\": 34877, \"arrett\": 34878, \"\\u0120Mono\": 34879, \"\\u0120Ike\": 34880, \"\\u0120CNBC\": 34881, \"\\u0120WAY\": 34882, \"\\u0120MDMA\": 34883, \"\\u0120Individuals\": 34884, \"\\u0120supplemental\": 34885, \"\\u0120powerhouse\": 34886, \"\\u0120Stru\": 34887, \"Focus\": 34888, \"aphael\": 34889, \"\\u0120Colleg\": 34890, \"atti\": 34891, \"ZA\": 34892, \"\\u0120perenn\": 34893, \"\\u0120Signature\": 34894, \"\\u0120Rodney\": 34895, \"\\u0120cubes\": 34896, \"iddled\": 34897, \"\\u0120Dante\": 34898, \"\\u0120INV\": 34899, \"ilingual\": 34900, \"\\u0120Cth\": 34901, \"\\u0120sofa\": 34902, \"\\u0120intimidate\": 34903, \"\\u0120Roe\": 34904, \"\\u0120Diplom\": 34905, \"\\u0120Countries\": 34906, \"ayson\": 34907, \"\\u0120extradition\": 34908, \"\\u0120disabling\": 34909, \"\\u0120Cardiff\": 34910, \"\\u0120memorandum\": 34911, \"\\u0120Trace\": 34912, \"\\u0120???\": 34913, \"sector\": 34914, \"\\u0120Rouhani\": 34915, \"\\u0120Yates\": 34916, \"\\u0120Freeze\": 34917, \"\\u0120bladder\": 34918, 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\"\\u0120Evaluation\": 34959, \"graph\": 34960, \"atial\": 34961, \"\\u0120cooperating\": 34962, \"\\u0120melan\": 34963, \"\\u0120enlightened\": 34964, \"\\u0120ali\": 34965, \"tailed\": 34966, \"\\u0120salute\": 34967, \"\\u0120weakest\": 34968, \"\\u0120Bulldogs\": 34969, \"UA\": 34970, \"\\u0120Alloy\": 34971, \"\\u0120semen\": 34972, \"ocene\": 34973, \"\\u0120Williamson\": 34974, \"spr\": 34975, \",\\u00e2\\u0122\\u0136\": 34976, \"\\u0120GF\": 34977, \"ittens\": 34978, \"Beat\": 34979, \"\\u0120Junk\": 34980, \"iphate\": 34981, \"\\u0120Farmers\": 34982, \"\\u0120Bitcoins\": 34983, \"igers\": 34984, \"dh\": 34985, \"\\u0120Loyal\": 34986, \"payer\": 34987, \"\\u0120entertained\": 34988, \"\\u0120penned\": 34989, \"\\u0120coupon\": 34990, \"Queue\": 34991, \"\\u0120weakening\": 34992, \"carry\": 34993, \"\\u0120underestimate\": 34994, \"\\u0120shootout\": 34995, \"\\u0120charismatic\": 34996, \"\\u0120Procedure\": 34997, \"\\u0120prudent\": 34998, \"inances\": 34999, 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\"\\u0120grievances\": 36121, \"Ultra\": 36122, \"\\u0120endpoint\": 36123, \"Hig\": 36124, \"\\u0120Static\": 36125, \"\\u0120Scarborough\": 36126, \"Lua\": 36127, \"\\u0120Messi\": 36128, \"aqu\": 36129, \"\\u0120PsyNet\": 36130, \"\\u0120Rudd\": 36131, \"\\u0120avenue\": 36132, \"vp\": 36133, \"Jer\": 36134, \"\\u0120shady\": 36135, \"\\u0120Resist\": 36136, \"\\u0120Artemis\": 36137, \"\\u0120careless\": 36138, \"\\u0120brokers\": 36139, \"\\u0120temperament\": 36140, \"\\u0120520\": 36141, \"Tags\": 36142, \"\\u0120Turning\": 36143, \"\\u0120uttered\": 36144, \"\\u0120pedd\": 36145, \"\\u0120improvised\": 36146, \"\\u0120:(\": 36147, \"\\u0120tabl\": 36148, \"\\u0120plains\": 36149, \"1600\": 36150, \"pressure\": 36151, \"\\u0120Essence\": 36152, \"margin\": 36153, \"friends\": 36154, \"\\u0120Restoration\": 36155, \"\\u0120pollut\": 36156, \"\\u0120Poker\": 36157, \"\\u0120Augustine\": 36158, \"\\u0120CIS\": 36159, \"\\u0120SEAL\": 36160, \"orama\": 36161, \"\\u0120thwart\": 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\"\\u0120scarf\": 36953, \"\\u0120rectangular\": 36954, \"reve\": 36955, \"\\u0120hormonal\": 36956, \"\\u0120Stress\": 36957, \"itizen\": 36958, \"\\u0120425\": 36959, \"girls\": 36960, \"\\u0120Noir\": 36961, \"\\u0120Rapp\": 36962, \"\\u0120marches\": 36963, \"church\": 36964, \"\\u0120Uses\": 36965, \"\\u0120405\": 36966, \"\\u0120Berm\": 36967, \"\\u0120ordinances\": 36968, \"\\u0120Judgment\": 36969, \"Charges\": 36970, \"\\u0120Zin\": 36971, \"\\u0120dusty\": 36972, \"\\u0120strawberries\": 36973, \"\\u0120perce\": 36974, \"\\u0120Thur\": 36975, \"\\u0120Deborah\": 36976, \"netflix\": 36977, \"\\u0120Lambert\": 36978, \"\\u0120amused\": 36979, \"\\u0120Guang\": 36980, \"YOU\": 36981, \"RGB\": 36982, \"\\u0120CCTV\": 36983, \"\\u0120fiat\": 36984, \"rang\": 36985, \"\\u0120federation\": 36986, \"\\u0120Mant\": 36987, \"\\u0120Bust\": 36988, \"\\u0120Mare\": 36989, \"respective\": 36990, \"\\u0120Migration\": 36991, \"\\u0120BIT\": 36992, \"590\": 36993, \"\\u0120patriotism\": 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\"\\u0120drifting\": 38193, \"\\u0120Lumia\": 38194, \"\\u0120ObamaCare\": 38195, \"\\u0120Favor\": 38196, \"Hyper\": 38197, \"\\u0120Rothschild\": 38198, \"\\u0120Miliband\": 38199, \"analy\": 38200, \"\\u0120Juliet\": 38201, \"Hu\": 38202, \"\\u0120recalling\": 38203, \"ahead\": 38204, \"696\": 38205, \"\\u0120unfavorable\": 38206, \"\\u0120dances\": 38207, \"Ox\": 38208, \"\\u0120legality\": 38209, \"\\u0120403\": 38210, \"romancer\": 38211, \"\\u0120inquire\": 38212, \"\\u0120Moves\": 38213, \"\\\\\\\">\": 38214, \"\\u0120Variant\": 38215, \"\\u0120Messiah\": 38216, \"\\u0120LCS\": 38217, \"\\u0120Bah\\u00c3\\u00a1\": 38218, \"756\": 38219, \"\\u0120eyebrow\": 38220, \"\\u0120\\u00c2\\u00a5\": 38221, \"\\u0120McF\": 38222, \"\\u0120Forty\": 38223, \"Mas\": 38224, \"\\u0120panicked\": 38225, \"\\u0120transformations\": 38226, \"qq\": 38227, \"\\u0120revolves\": 38228, \"ringe\": 38229, \"\\u0120Ai\": 38230, \"axe\": 38231, \"\\u0120onward\": 38232, \"\\u0120CFR\": 38233, \"\\u0120Bare\": 38234, \"login\": 38235, \"\\u0120liquids\": 38236, \"\\u0120decomp\": 38237, \"secondary\": 38238, \"ilan\": 38239, \"\\u0120Convert\": 38240, \"amiya\": 38241, \"\\u0120prosecuting\": 38242, \"\\u0120\\u00e2\\u012b\\u00a1\": 38243, \"\\u0120Yorkers\": 38244, \"\\u0120Byrne\": 38245, \"slow\": 38246, \"awei\": 38247, \"Jean\": 38248, \"\\u0120269\": 38249, \"\\u0120Skydragon\": 38250, \"\\u0120\\u00c3\\u00a9\": 38251, \"\\u0120Nicaragua\": 38252, \"\\u0120Huckabee\": 38253, \"\\u0120Highly\": 38254, \"\\u0120amphib\": 38255, \"\\u0120Pastor\": 38256, \"\\u0120Lets\": 38257, \"\\u0120blurred\": 38258, \"\\u0120visceral\": 38259, \"\\u0120CBO\": 38260, \"\\u0120collaborated\": 38261, \"zig\": 38262, \"Legal\": 38263, \"\\u0120apartheid\": 38264, \"\\u0120brid\": 38265, \"\\u0120preset\": 38266, \"\\u0120DET\": 38267, \"\\u0120AMA\": 38268, \"\\u00d7\\u0136\": 38269, \"arching\": 38270, \"aucuses\": 38271, \"builder\": 38272, \"\\u0120poetic\": 38273, \"\\u0120emulator\": 38274, \"\\u0120Molecular\": 38275, \"\\u0120honoring\": 38276, \"iseum\": 38277, \"\\u0120tractor\": 38278, \"\\u0120Cluster\": 38279, \"\\u0120Calm\": 38280, \"aredevil\": 38281, \"\\u0120sidewalks\": 38282, \"\\u0120violin\": 38283, \"\\u0120generalized\": 38284, \"\\u0120Alec\": 38285, \"\\u0120embargo\": 38286, \"\\u0120fastball\": 38287, \"\\u0120HTTPS\": 38288, \"\\u0120Lack\": 38289, \"\\u0120Chill\": 38290, \"river\": 38291, \"Chel\": 38292, \"\\u0120Swarm\": 38293, \"\\u0120Levine\": 38294, \"roying\": 38295, \"Launch\": 38296, \"\\u0120kicker\": 38297, \"\\u0120additive\": 38298, \"\\u0120Deals\": 38299, \"Widget\": 38300, \"containing\": 38301, \"\\u0120escalate\": 38302, \"\\u0120OPEN\": 38303, \"\\u0120tweaked\": 38304, \"\\u0120stash\": 38305, \"\\u0120sparks\": 38306, \"\\u0120Essex\": 38307, \"\\u0120Ecc\": 38308, \"\\u0120convict\": 38309, \"\\u0120blogging\": 38310, \"IER\": 38311, \"\\u0120HL\": 38312, \"\\u0120murderers\": 38313, \"759\": 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\"\\u0120Vec\": 38692, \"\\u0120Beir\": 38693, \"\\u0120milliseconds\": 38694, \"weak\": 38695, \"perse\": 38696, \"\\u0120sterile\": 38697, \"\\u0120Contemporary\": 38698, \"\\u0120Phant\": 38699, \"\\u0120Clo\": 38700, \"\\u0120outp\": 38701, \"\\u0120exiled\": 38702, \"\\u0120277\": 38703, \"\\u0120selfie\": 38704, \"\\u0120manic\": 38705, \"\\u0120nano\": 38706, \"terms\": 38707, \"Alexander\": 38708, \"\\u0120resolves\": 38709, \"\\u0120millennia\": 38710, \"\\u0120explodes\": 38711, \"\\u0120constellation\": 38712, \"\\u0120adultery\": 38713, \"motion\": 38714, \"DOC\": 38715, \"\\u0120broadcasters\": 38716, \"\\u0120kindergarten\": 38717, \"\\u0120Mayweather\": 38718, \"\\u0120Eco\": 38719, \"icho\": 38720, \"\\u0120287\": 38721, \"laun\": 38722, \"\\u0120mute\": 38723, \"\\u0120discreet\": 38724, \"\\u0120preschool\": 38725, \"\\u0120preempt\": 38726, \"Delete\": 38727, \"\\u0120Freed\": 38728, \"Pi\": 38729, \"HK\": 38730, \"\\u0120blocker\": 38731, \"\\u0120Cumber\": 38732, \"\\u0120wrought\": 38733, \"dating\": 38734, \"\\u0120insurer\": 38735, \"\\u0120quotas\": 38736, \"\\u0120preached\": 38737, \"\\u0120eviction\": 38738, \"\\u0120Regina\": 38739, \"\\u0120Pens\": 38740, \"\\u0120seventeen\": 38741, \"\\u0120Nass\": 38742, \"Dick\": 38743, \"\\u0120folds\": 38744, \"\\u0120dotted\": 38745, \"\\u0120Aad\": 38746, \"Universal\": 38747, \"\\u0120pizz\": 38748, \"\\u0120Guru\": 38749, \"\\u0120soils\": 38750, \"\\u0120novice\": 38751, \"\\u0120Neander\": 38752, \"\\u0120stool\": 38753, \"\\u0120detonated\": 38754, \"\\u0120Pikachu\": 38755, \"\\u0120Massive\": 38756, \"IVER\": 38757, \"\\u0120Abdel\": 38758, \"\\u0120subdued\": 38759, \"\\u0120tallest\": 38760, \"\\u0120precarious\": 38761, \"\\u0120ay\": 38762, \"rification\": 38763, \"\\u0120Obj\": 38764, \"cale\": 38765, \"\\u0120unquestion\": 38766, \"culosis\": 38767, \"adas\": 38768, \"igrated\": 38769, \"Days\": 38770, \"\\u0120queens\": 38771, \"\\u0120Gazette\": 38772, \"\\u0120Colour\": 38773, \"\\u0120Bowman\": 38774, \"\\u0120JJ\": 38775, \"\\u00c3\\u00afve\": 38776, \"\\u0120dominates\": 38777, \"Student\": 38778, \"\\u0120mu\": 38779, \"\\u0120backlog\": 38780, \"\\u0120Electro\": 38781, \"Truth\": 38782, \"483\": 38783, \"\\u0120condensed\": 38784, \"rules\": 38785, \"\\u0120Conspiracy\": 38786, \"\\u0120acronym\": 38787, \"handled\": 38788, \"\\u0120Matte\": 38789, \"jri\": 38790, \"\\u0120Impossible\": 38791, \"lude\": 38792, \"creation\": 38793, \"\\u0120warmed\": 38794, \"\\u0120Slave\": 38795, \"\\u0120misled\": 38796, \"\\u0120ferment\": 38797, \"\\u0120Kah\": 38798, \"inki\": 38799, \"keleton\": 38800, \"cyl\": 38801, \"\\u0120Karin\": 38802, \"Hunter\": 38803, \"Register\": 38804, \"\\u0120Surrey\": 38805, \"\\u0120stares\": 38806, \"\\u0120Width\": 38807, \"\\u0120Nay\": 38808, \"\\u0120Ski\": 38809, \"\\u0120blacklist\": 38810, \"ucket\": 38811, \"\\u0120expulsion\": 38812, \"imet\": 38813, \"\\u0120retweet\": 38814, \"vantage\": 38815, \"Feature\": 38816, \"\\u0120troopers\": 38817, \"\\u0120homers\": 38818, \"969\": 38819, \"\\u0120contingency\": 38820, \"\\u0120WTC\": 38821, \"\\u0120Brewer\": 38822, \"foreign\": 38823, \"Ware\": 38824, \"Solar\": 38825, \"\\u0120undue\": 38826, \"REC\": 38827, \"ulnerable\": 38828, \"pathic\": 38829, \"\\u0120Boise\": 38830, \"\\u0120322\": 38831, \"\\u0120aroused\": 38832, \"\\u0120Ying\": 38833, \"\\u00e4\\u00b8\\u012f\": 38834, \"ueless\": 38835, \"\\u0120pas\": 38836, \"\\u0120morp\": 38837, \"\\u0120floral\": 38838, \"Express\": 38839, \"udging\": 38840, \"kB\": 38841, \"\\u0120Granted\": 38842, \"\\u00d8\\u00af\": 38843, \"\\u0120Micha\": 38844, \"\\u0120Gothic\": 38845, \"\\u0120SPECIAL\": 38846, \"\\u0120Ricardo\": 38847, \"Fran\": 38848, \"\\u0120administering\": 38849, \"620\": 38850, \"pora\": 38851, \"\\u0120\\u00c2\\u00ae\": 38852, \"\\u0120compromises\": 38853, \"\\u0120bitten\": 38854, \"Accept\": 38855, \"Thirty\": 38856, \"\\u00d0\\u00b2\": 38857, \"\\u0120materially\": 38858, \"\\u0120Terr\": 38859, \"igmatic\": 38860, \"chains\": 38861, \"\\u0120dove\": 38862, \"stadt\": 38863, \"Marvel\": 38864, \"FAULT\": 38865, \"\\u0120windshield\": 38866, \"\\u0120336\": 38867, \"adier\": 38868, \"\\u0120swapping\": 38869, \"\\u0120flawless\": 38870, \"\\u0120Predator\": 38871, \"\\u0120Michele\": 38872, \"\\u0120propulsion\": 38873, \"\\u0120Psychic\": 38874, \"\\u0120assigning\": 38875, \"\\u0120fabrication\": 38876, \"\\u0120barley\": 38877, \"lust\": 38878, \"\\u0120towering\": 38879, \"\\u0120altercation\": 38880, \"\\u0120Bentley\": 38881, \"Sphere\": 38882, \"\\u0120tuna\": 38883, \"\\u0120Classes\": 38884, \"Freedom\": 38885, \"uner\": 38886, \"Lady\": 38887, \"voice\": 38888, \"\\u0120coolest\": 38889, \"orr\": 38890, \"\\u0120palp\": 38891, \"${\": 38892, \"\\u0120hysteria\": 38893, \"\\u0120Metatron\": 38894, \"pants\": 38895, \"\\u0120spawning\": 38896, \"Experts\": 38897, \"\\u0120Investors\": 38898, \"\\u0120Anarchy\": 38899, \"\\u0120shrunk\": 38900, \"\\u0120Victim\": 38901, \"\\u0120289\": 38902, \"\\u0120ecstasy\": 38903, \"\\u0120Binding\": 38904, \"585\": 38905, \"\\u0120Melody\": 38906, \"578\": 38907, \"otally\": 38908, \"\\u0120Etsy\": 38909, \"liga\": 38910, \"\\u0120applauded\": 38911, \"\\u0120sweating\": 38912, \"\\u0120redistributed\": 38913, \"\\u0120popcorn\": 38914, \"\\u0120seminal\": 38915, \"fur\": 38916, \"\\u0120Neuroscience\": 38917, \"Rand\": 38918, \"\\u0120Ost\": 38919, \"\\u0120Madden\": 38920, \"\\u0120Increasing\": 38921, \"\\u0120Dawkins\": 38922, \"\\u0120Subway\": 38923, \"\\u0120arsen\": 38924, \"conserv\": 38925, \"BUR\": 38926, \"\\u0120spiked\": 38927, \"\\u0120Lyft\": 38928, \"\\u0120Imperium\": 38929, \"\\u0120Dropbox\": 38930, \"\\u0120favoured\": 38931, \"\\u0120encompasses\": 38932, \"ghost\": 38933, \"\\u0120inspires\": 38934, \"\\u0120burgeoning\": 38935, \"\\u0120Yoshi\": 38936, \"\\u0120Vertical\": 38937, \"\\u0120Auditor\": 38938, \"\\u0120intending\": 38939, \"\\u0120filibuster\": 38940, \"Bloom\": 38941, \"fac\": 38942, \"\\u0120Cavs\": 38943, \"igning\": 38944, \"\\u0120coworkers\": 38945, \"\\u0120Barbarian\": 38946, \"remember\": 38947, \"FLAG\": 38948, \"\\u0120auditory\": 38949, \"asonry\": 38950, \"College\": 38951, \"\\u0120muted\": 38952, \"gemony\": 38953, \"obin\": 38954, \"\\u0120Psycho\": 38955, \"968\": 38956, \"\\u0120lavish\": 38957, \"\\u0120hierarchical\": 38958, \"\\u0120Drone\": 38959, \"ouk\": 38960, \"\\u0120crippled\": 38961, \"\\u0120Maxim\": 38962, \"Slot\": 38963, \"\\u0120quiz\": 38964, \"\\u0120Vid\": 38965, \"ifling\": 38966, \"\\u0120archaeologists\": 38967, \"\\u0120abandonment\": 38968, \"dial\": 38969, \"leon\": 38970, \"\\u0120Fas\": 38971, \"Ted\": 38972, \"\\u0120raspberry\": 38973, \"\\u0120maneuvers\": 38974, \"\\u0120behaviours\": 38975, \"\\u0120insure\": 38976, \"\\u0120remod\": 38977, \"Switch\": 38978, \"hoe\": 38979, \"\\u0120spaced\": 38980, \"\\u0120affordability\": 38981, \"\\u0120Fern\": 38982, \"notation\": 38983, \"\\u0120Balanced\": 38984, \"\\u0120occupies\": 38985, \"environment\": 38986, \"\\u0120necklace\": 38987, \"\\u0120sedan\": 38988, \"FU\": 38989, \"\\u0120Bravo\": 38990, \"\\u0120abusers\": 38991, \"\\u0120Anita\": 38992, \"metadata\": 38993, \"\\u0120Github\": 38994, \"aito\": 38995, \"\\u0120Faster\": 38996, \"\\u0120Wasserman\": 38997, \"\\u0120Flesh\": 38998, \"\\u0120thorn\": 38999, \"rarily\": 39000, \"\\u0120Merry\": 39001, \"wine\": 39002, \"\\u0120populace\": 39003, \"\\u0120Lann\": 39004, \"\\u0120repairing\": 39005, \"\\u0120psyche\": 39006, \"\\u0120modulation\": 39007, \"awaru\": 39008, \"\\u00e2\\u0122\\u012d\\u00e2\\u0122\\u012d\": 39009, \"arij\": 39010, \"\\u0120decorations\": 39011, \"\\u0120apologise\": 39012, \"\\u0120Garg\": 39013, \"apply\": 39014, \"\\u0120giveaway\": 39015, \"\\u0120Flan\": 39016, \"\\u0120Wyatt\": 39017, \"Uber\": 39018, \"\\u0120authorised\": 39019, \"\\u0120Moral\": 39020, \"HAHAHAHA\": 39021, \"activate\": 39022, \"\\u0120torpedo\": 39023, \"\\u0120FAR\": 39024, \"\\u0120amassed\": 39025, \"\\u0120Aram\": 39026, \"arkin\": 39027, \"\\u0120Victims\": 39028, \"stab\": 39029, \"\\u0120om\": 39030, \"\\u0120ECO\": 39031, \"\\u0120opioids\": 39032, \"\\u0120purposely\": 39033, \"\\u0120Vest\": 39034, \"\\u0120erg\": 39035, \"atan\": 39036, \"\\u0120Surgery\": 39037, \"\\u0120correcting\": 39038, \"\\u0120Ortiz\": 39039, \"\\u0120Beet\": 39040, \"\\u0120revoke\": 39041, \"\\u0120freeway\": 39042, \"\\u0120Higgins\": 39043, \"Fail\": 39044, \"\\u0120Farms\": 39045, \"\\u0120ATP\": 39046, \"hound\": 39047, \"\\u0120poking\": 39048, \"\\u0120Communists\": 39049, \"monster\": 39050, \"imentary\": 39051, \"\\u0120unlocking\": 39052, \"\\u0120unfit\": 39053, \"weed\": 39054, \"enario\": 39055, \"atical\": 39056, \"\\u0120Enlightenment\": 39057, \"\\u0120NG\": 39058, \"\\u0120Compensation\": 39059, \"deen\": 39060, \"\\u0120Widow\": 39061, \"\\u0120Cindy\": 39062, \"\\u0120Afterwards\": 39063, \"\\u01206000\": 39064, \"ikhail\": 39065, \"agically\": 39066, \"\\u0120ratified\": 39067, \"\\u0120casualty\": 39068, \"HOME\": 39069, \"psey\": 39070, \"fee\": 39071, \"\\u0120sparkling\": 39072, \"\\u0120d\\u00c3\\u00a9\": 39073, \"\\u0120concerted\": 39074, \"Catal\": 39075, \"\\u0120complying\": 39076, \"\\u0120Ares\": 39077, \"\\u0120Dent\": 39078, \"Shut\": 39079, \"\\u0120skim\": 39080, \"administ\": 39081, \"\\u0120hostilities\": 39082, \"\\u0120Gins\": 39083, \"\\u0120608\": 39084, \"\\u0120muddy\": 39085, \"\\u0120McInt\": 39086, \"\\u0120Decay\": 39087, \"525\": 39088, \"\\u0120conspicuous\": 39089, \"\\u0120Exposure\": 39090, \"\\u0120rescind\": 39091, \"\\u0120wearable\": 39092, \"\\u0120328\": 39093, \"ourmet\": 39094, \"ahs\": 39095, \"\\u0120Robots\": 39096, \"\\u0120eclips\": 39097, \"instance\": 39098, \"\\u0120REPORT\": 39099, \"\\u0120Appl\": 39100, \"030\": 39101, \"\\u0120Skies\": 39102, \"0100\": 39103, \"\\u0120fallacy\": 39104, \"Socket\": 39105, \"\\u0120Receiver\": 39106, \"\\u0120solves\": 39107, \"\\u0120Butterfly\": 39108, \"\\u0120Shopping\": 39109, \"\\u0120FIRE\": 39110, \"654\": 39111, \"Medic\": 39112, \"\\u0120singers\": 39113, \"\\u0120Needless\": 39114, \"''''\": 39115, \"ishers\": 39116, \"\\u0120Dive\": 39117, \"588\": 39118, \"\\u0120selectively\": 39119, \"\\u0120clumsy\": 39120, \"889\": 39121, \"\\u0120purchaser\": 39122, \"earned\": 39123, \"ardy\": 39124, \"\\u0120benefiting\": 39125, \"english\": 39126, \"\\u0120yielding\": 39127, \"\\u0120Pour\": 39128, \"\\u0120spinach\": 39129, \"\\u0120delve\": 39130, \"\\u0120Crom\": 39131, \"610\": 39132, \"\\u0120exporting\": 39133, \"\\u0120MAKE\": 39134, \"\\u0120263\": 39135, \"\\u0120grop\": 39136, \"\\u0120envoy\": 39137, \"\\u0120Inquiry\": 39138, \"\\u0120Luigi\": 39139, \"dry\": 39140, \"\\u0120Turing\": 39141, \"ThumbnailImage\": 39142, \"\\u0120Variety\": 39143, \"\\u0120facet\": 39144, \"\\u0120fluffy\": 39145, \"\\u0120excerpts\": 39146, \"\\u0120shorth\": 39147, \"\\u0120Olsen\": 39148, \"CLUD\": 39149, \"\\u0120reliant\": 39150, \"\\u0120UNC\": 39151, \"Tour\": 39152, \"\\u0120bathing\": 39153, \"Company\": 39154, \"\\u0120globalization\": 39155, \"Pred\": 39156, \"\\u0120Malfoy\": 39157, \"\\u0120hoc\": 39158, \"jam\": 39159, \"crafted\": 39160, \"\\u0120Bonds\": 39161, \"\\u0120Kissinger\": 39162, \"England\": 39163, \"\\u0120orderly\": 39164, \"catentry\": 39165, \"\\u0120261\": 39166, \"\\u0120exchanging\": 39167, \"\\u0120Intent\": 39168, \"\\u0120Amendments\": 39169, \"DOM\": 39170, \"\\u0120stout\": 39171, \"\\u00c2\\u0142\\u00c2\\u0142\\u00c2\\u0142\\u00c2\\u0142\\u00c2\\u0142\\u00c2\\u0142\\u00c2\\u0142\\u00c2\\u0142\\u00c2\\u0142\\u00c2\\u0142\\u00c2\\u0142\\u00c2\\u0142\\u00c2\\u0142\\u00c2\\u0142\\u00c2\\u0142\\u00c2\\u0142\": 39172, \"\\u0120Airbus\": 39173, \"\\u0120278\": 39174, \"hyde\": 39175, \"Poll\": 39176, \"ItemThumbnailImage\": 39177, \"\\u0120loopholes\": 39178, \"\\u0120Pillar\": 39179, \"\\u0120explor\": 39180, \"Stretch\": 39181, \"Apart\": 39182, \"\\u0120unmarried\": 39183, \"Limit\": 39184, \"\\u0120Transformers\": 39185, \"\\u0120intellectually\": 39186, \"uncture\": 39187, \"1800\": 39188, \"\\u0120darn\": 39189, \"Brazil\": 39190, \"\\u0120leftover\": 39191, \"berus\": 39192, \"fred\": 39193, \"Minecraft\": 39194, \"326\": 39195, \"\\u0120Forms\": 39196, \"\\u0120proofs\": 39197, \"\\u0120Designed\": 39198, \"\\u0120indexes\": 39199, \"\\u0120Suppose\": 39200, \"EMS\": 39201, \"\\u0120Loving\": 39202, \"\\u0120Bonnie\": 39203, \"imating\": 39204, \"OTUS\": 39205, \"\\u0120conductor\": 39206, \"\\u0120behaved\": 39207, \"\\u0120Fren\": 39208, \"\\u0120synerg\": 39209, \"\\u0120millennium\": 39210, \"\\u0120catering\": 39211, \"\\u0120Lauder\": 39212, \"Wr\": 39213, \"\\u0120Yiannopoulos\": 39214, \"\\u0120ATF\": 39215, \"\\u0120enslaved\": 39216, \"\\u0120awakened\": 39217, \"DVD\": 39218, \"\\u0120EDITION\": 39219, \"\\u0120Concert\": 39220, \"\\u0120Challenger\": 39221, \"\\u0120Haku\": 39222, \"umeric\": 39223, \"\\u0120deprecated\": 39224, \"\\u0120SHAR\": 39225, \"412\": 39226, \"\\u0120dystop\": 39227, \"\\u0120trembling\": 39228, \"\\u0120dreaded\": 39229, \"\\u0120Spac\": 39230, \"padding\": 39231, \"Repl\": 39232, \"\\u0120Garrison\": 39233, \"Mini\": 39234, \"\\u0120unparalleled\": 39235, \"amar\": 39236, \"URRENT\": 39237, \"wreck\": 39238, \"certain\": 39239, \"tal\": 39240, \"\\u0120CLS\": 39241, \"appings\": 39242, \"\\u0120sensed\": 39243, \"\\u0120fencing\": 39244, \"\\u0120Paso\": 39245, \"\\u0120Desk\": 39246, \"\\u0120scoff\": 39247, \"\\u0120contemplate\": 39248, \"\\u0120Liga\": 39249, \"liquid\": 39250, \"757\": 39251, \"\\u0120apprentice\": 39252, \"\\u0120UCHIJ\": 39253, \"570\": 39254, \"\\u0120Thousand\": 39255, \"\\u0120Illum\": 39256, \"\\u0120championed\": 39257, \"\\u00e3\\u0124\\u012e\": 39258, \"\\u0120electors\": 39259, \"\\u0120398\": 39260, \"\\u0120Hancock\": 39261, \"rounded\": 39262, \"\\u0120JOHN\": 39263, \"\\u0120unsatisf\": 39264, \"\\u0120qualifier\": 39265, \"\\u0120Gadget\": 39266, \"ENE\": 39267, \"\\u0120deadliest\": 39268, \"\\u0120Plants\": 39269, \"\\u0120ions\": 39270, \"\\u0120accents\": 39271, \"\\u0120tweaking\": 39272, \"\\u0120shaved\": 39273, \"FREE\": 39274, \"\\u0120Chaser\": 39275, \"Against\": 39276, \"960\": 39277, \"\\u0120methamphetamine\": 39278, \"\\u0120normalized\": 39279, \"\\u0120$\\\\\": 39280, \"\\u0120Precision\": 39281, \"\\u0120Guam\": 39282, \"\\u0120choked\": 39283, \"\\u0120XII\": 39284, \"\\u0120Casting\": 39285, \"Torrent\": 39286, \"\\u0120scalp\": 39287, \"\\u0120Jaguar\": 39288, \"wit\": 39289, \"\\u0120semic\": 39290, \"ixie\": 39291, \"\\u0120Gould\": 39292, \"\\u0120confines\": 39293, \"Nusra\": 39294, \"\\u0120Lon\": 39295, \"\\u0120Jugg\": 39296, \"ycle\": 39297, \"\\u0120Codec\": 39298, \"Egypt\": 39299, \"\\u0120restrain\": 39300, \"\\u0120Aliens\": 39301, \"\\u0120choking\": 39302, \"\\u0120Dunk\": 39303, \"\\u0120Bella\": 39304, \"abc\": 39305, \"\\u0120slang\": 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\"\\u0120laborers\": 41075, \"stals\": 41076, \"\\u0120mediation\": 41077, \"\\u0120Hedge\": 41078, \"atown\": 41079, \"\\u0120iod\": 41080, \"despite\": 41081, \"vill\": 41082, \"Jane\": 41083, \"existence\": 41084, \"\\u0120coincided\": 41085, \"\\u0120Utilities\": 41086, \"\\u0120Cheap\": 41087, \"\\u0120logistical\": 41088, \"\\u0120culmination\": 41089, \"\\u0120Nicotine\": 41090, \"pak\": 41091, \"Folder\": 41092, \"\\u0120rodents\": 41093, \"stuff\": 41094, \"\\u0120lawfully\": 41095, \"\\u0120reperto\": 41096, \"ioch\": 41097, \"jj\": 41098, \"Dialogue\": 41099, \"HHHH\": 41100, \"liction\": 41101, \"Looks\": 41102, \"\\u0120297\": 41103, \"\\u0120turrets\": 41104, \"\\u0120Abandon\": 41105, \"\\u0120incess\": 41106, \"\\u0120Trafford\": 41107, \"\\u0120curled\": 41108, \"\\u0120preferring\": 41109, \"\\u0120privatization\": 41110, \"\\u0120irresist\": 41111, \"\\u0120Panda\": 41112, \"\\u0120Shake\": 41113, \"\\u0120McGr\": 41114, \"\\u00e3\\u0125\\u0126\": 41115, \"unders\": 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\"\\u0120recollection\": 41285, \"\\u0120cran\": 41286, \"\\u0120780\": 41287, \"\\u0120NF\": 41288, \"491\": 41289, \"642\": 41290, \"packing\": 41291, \"598\": 41292, \"texture\": 41293, \"Spider\": 41294, \"freedom\": 41295, \"cipled\": 41296, \"\\u0120TAMADRA\": 41297, \"\\u00e2\\u013b\\u00a6\": 41298, \"authent\": 41299, \"\\u0120WANT\": 41300, \"rified\": 41301, \"\\u0120rites\": 41302, \"\\u0120uterus\": 41303, \"kiss\": 41304, \"\\u0120\\u00e2\\u012b\\u00a4\": 41305, \"\\u0120skillet\": 41306, \"\\u0120disenfranch\": 41307, \"\\u0120Gaal\": 41308, \"Compan\": 41309, \"\\u0120ageing\": 41310, \"guide\": 41311, \"Balt\": 41312, \"\\u0120iterator\": 41313, \"\\u0120discretionary\": 41314, \"tips\": 41315, \"\\u0120primates\": 41316, \"\\u0120Technique\": 41317, \"\\u0120Payments\": 41318, \"azel\": 41319, \"\\u0120ROCK\": 41320, \"stantial\": 41321, \"060\": 41322, \"\\u0120dmg\": 41323, \"\\u0120Jackets\": 41324, \"\\u0120Playoff\": 41325, \"\\u0120nursery\": 41326, 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\"\\u0120prototyp\": 41369, \"\\u0120prematurely\": 41370, \"\\u0120manuals\": 41371, \"obbies\": 41372, \"\\u0120Cassidy\": 41373, \"DEC\": 41374, \"desktop\": 41375, \"\\u0120aeros\": 41376, \"\\u0120screenings\": 41377, \"\\u0120debilitating\": 41378, \"\\u0120Grind\": 41379, \"natureconservancy\": 41380, \"\\u0120fades\": 41381, \"termination\": 41382, \"assetsadobe\": 41383, \"Factor\": 41384, \"\\u0120definitively\": 41385, \"Pok\\u00c3\\u00a9\": 41386, \"apult\": 41387, \"\\u0120Lafayette\": 41388, \"Corn\": 41389, \"\\u0120Coral\": 41390, \"\\u0120stagnant\": 41391, \"Tue\": 41392, \"\\u0120dissatisfaction\": 41393, \"Gender\": 41394, \"\\u0120kidneys\": 41395, \"\\u0120Gow\": 41396, \"\\u0120Defeat\": 41397, \"\\u0120Ashton\": 41398, \"\\u0120cartels\": 41399, \"\\u0120foreclosure\": 41400, \"\\u0120Explore\": 41401, \"strength\": 41402, \"otin\": 41403, \"\\u0120veterinarian\": 41404, \"\\u0120fumble\": 41405, \"\\u0120parap\": 41406, \"\\u0120Strait\": 41407, \"rils\": 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\"\\u0120depress\": 41447, \"\\u0120billboard\": 41448, \"\\u0120Yad\": 41449, \"\\u0120Pyramid\": 41450, \"Isn\": 41451, \"Ide\": 41452, \"\\u0120legion\": 41453, \"\\u0120Kramer\": 41454, \"entanyl\": 41455, \"\\u0120penetrating\": 41456, \"\\u0120Hawth\": 41457, \"\\u0120PRODUCT\": 41458, \"\\u0120Gerard\": 41459, \"\\u0120Pact\": 41460, \"\\u0120Including\": 41461, \"\\u0120Elias\": 41462, \"\\u0120Elaine\": 41463, \"visual\": 41464, \"\\u0120humming\": 41465, \"\\u0120condesc\": 41466, \"\\u0120Fasc\": 41467, \"\\u00e4\\u00b8\\u012c\": 41468, \"\\u0120egalitarian\": 41469, \"\\u0120devs\": 41470, \"\\u0120Dahl\": 41471, \"Ops\": 41472, \"DH\": 41473, \"\\u0120Bounce\": 41474, \"idated\": 41475, \"aldo\": 41476, \"\\u0120republican\": 41477, \"\\u0120hamb\": 41478, \"\\u0120Sett\": 41479, \"ographies\": 41480, \"CHAPTER\": 41481, \"\\u0120transsexual\": 41482, \"\\u0120skyrocket\": 41483, \"answer\": 41484, \"\\u0120markup\": 41485, \"\\u00d8\\u00aa\": 41486, \"\\u0120heroine\": 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\"Cand\": 41572, \"@#\": 41573, \"\\u0120agitated\": 41574, \"\\u0120repr\": 41575, \"OVA\": 41576, \"\\u0120knitting\": 41577, \"\\u0120Lima\": 41578, \"\\u0120fodder\": 41579, \"684\": 41580, \"\\u0120Persona\": 41581, \"kl\": 41582, \"701\": 41583, \"\\u0120breakup\": 41584, \"\\u00e1\\u00b8\": 41585, \"\\u0120appalled\": 41586, \"\\u0120antidepressants\": 41587, \"\\u0120Sussex\": 41588, \"Harris\": 41589, \"\\u0120Thermal\": 41590, \"eeee\": 41591, \"Upload\": 41592, \"\\u0120gulf\": 41593, \"\\u0120doorstep\": 41594, \"\\u0120Shank\": 41595, \"LU\": 41596, \"\\u0120MEN\": 41597, \"\\u0120Pond\": 41598, \"sorry\": 41599, \"\\u0120misfortune\": 41600, \"nance\": 41601, \"\\u0120bona\": 41602, \"Mut\": 41603, \"\\u0120degraded\": 41604, \"\\u0120LOG\": 41605, \"\\u0120Ness\": 41606, \"animal\": 41607, \"\\u0120aversion\": 41608, \"undown\": 41609, \"\\u0120supplemented\": 41610, \"\\u0120Cups\": 41611, \"\\u0120504\": 41612, \"\\u0120deprive\": 41613, \"\\u0120Sparkle\": 41614, \"\\u00c5\\u0124\": 41615, \"\\u0120Meditation\": 41616, \"authors\": 41617, \"\\u0120Saban\": 41618, \"\\u0120Naked\": 41619, \"aird\": 41620, \"\\u0120Mandarin\": 41621, \"\\u0120Scriptures\": 41622, \"\\u0120Personnel\": 41623, \"\\u0120Maharashtra\": 41624, \"\\u01201903\": 41625, \"\\u0120Pai\": 41626, \"\\u0120Mirage\": 41627, \"ombat\": 41628, \"Accessory\": 41629, \"\\u0120fragmented\": 41630, \"Together\": 41631, \"\\u0120believable\": 41632, \"\\u0120Gladiator\": 41633, \"aligned\": 41634, \"\\u0120Slug\": 41635, \"MAT\": 41636, \"\\u0120convertible\": 41637, \"\\u0120Bourbon\": 41638, \"ameron\": 41639, \"\\u0120Rehab\": 41640, \"ntax\": 41641, \"\\u0120powdered\": 41642, \"pillar\": 41643, \"\\u0120smoker\": 41644, \"\\u0120Manson\": 41645, \"\\u0120BF\": 41646, \"511\": 41647, \"\\u0120Goodell\": 41648, \"\\u0120DAR\": 41649, \"mud\": 41650, \"gart\": 41651, \"\\u0120obedient\": 41652, \"\\u0120Transmission\": 41653, \"\\u0120Donation\": 41654, \"880\": 41655, \"\\u0120bothering\": 41656, \"Materials\": 41657, \"\\u00e3\\u0124\\u00b1\": 41658, \"destroy\": 41659, \"\\u0120foregoing\": 41660, \"\\u0120anarchism\": 41661, \"\\u0120Kry\": 41662, \"iceps\": 41663, \"\\u0120littered\": 41664, \"\\u0120Schiff\": 41665, \"\\u0120anecdotal\": 41666, \"units\": 41667, \"\\u0120fian\": 41668, \"\\u0120Stim\": 41669, \"\\u0120SOME\": 41670, \"\\u0120Invaders\": 41671, \"\\u0120behavioural\": 41672, \"\\u0120Ventures\": 41673, \"\\u0120sublime\": 41674, \"\\u0120fruition\": 41675, \"\\u0120Penalty\": 41676, \"\\u0120corrosion\": 41677, \"\\u00b6\\u0127\": 41678, \"\\u0120likened\": 41679, \"\\u0120besieged\": 41680, \"weeney\": 41681, \"\\u0120Creep\": 41682, \"\\u0120linemen\": 41683, \"multi\": 41684, \"icably\": 41685, \"udder\": 41686, \"\\u0120vitality\": 41687, \"\\u0120shortfall\": 41688, \"\\u0120Pants\": 41689, \"apist\": 41690, \"Hidden\": 41691, \"\\u0120Drops\": 41692, \"medical\": 41693, \"\\u0120pronunciation\": 41694, \"\\u0120NRL\": 41695, \"\\u0120insightful\": 41696, \"JV\": 41697, \"\\u0120Beard\": 41698, \"\\u0120Chou\": 41699, \"\\u0120charms\": 41700, \"\\u0120bins\": 41701, \"\\u0120ambassadors\": 41702, \"\\u0120Saturdays\": 41703, \"\\u0120inhibitor\": 41704, \"\\u0120Franch\": 41705, \"601\": 41706, \"','\": 41707, \"\\u0120Conor\": 41708, \"artney\": 41709, \"\\u0120Xperia\": 41710, \"grave\": 41711, \"bees\": 41712, \"\\u0120Protestants\": 41713, \"\\u0120soaking\": 41714, \"\\u0120Mandal\": 41715, \"\\u0120phased\": 41716, \"\\u0120660\": 41717, \"\\u0120scams\": 41718, \"\\u0120buzzing\": 41719, \"\\u0120Italians\": 41720, \"\\u0120Lorenzo\": 41721, \"\\u0120JA\": 41722, \"\\u0120hesitated\": 41723, \"\\u0120cliffs\": 41724, \"\\u0120GOT\": 41725, \"inguishable\": 41726, \"\\u0120ko\": 41727, \"\\u0120interruption\": 41728, \"Zip\": 41729, \"Learning\": 41730, \"\\u0120underscores\": 41731, \"\\u0120Blink\": 41732, \"Ku\": 41733, \"579\": 41734, \"\\u0120Autob\": 41735, \"IRE\": 41736, \"\\u0120watering\": 41737, \"\\u0120pastry\": 41738, \"820\": 41739, \"\\u0120visionary\": 41740, \"\\u0120Templar\": 41741, \"awaited\": 41742, \"\\u0120piston\": 41743, \"\\u0120antid\": 41744, \"currently\": 41745, \"\\u0120pard\": 41746, \"\\u0120waging\": 41747, \"\\u0120nobility\": 41748, \"\\u0120Yus\": 41749, \"\\u0120injecting\": 41750, \"faith\": 41751, \"\\u0120PASS\": 41752, \"\\u00e5\\u00ba\": 41753, \"\\u0120retake\": 41754, \"\\u0120PROC\": 41755, \"\\u0120cathedral\": 41756, \"bash\": 41757, \"\\u0120wrestlers\": 41758, \"\\u0120partnering\": 41759, \"\\u0120noses\": 41760, \"\\u0120358\": 41761, \"Transform\": 41762, \"amen\": 41763, \"\\u0120bouts\": 41764, \"\\u0120Ideal\": 41765, \"\\u0120Constantin\": 41766, \"\\u0120sep\": 41767, \"\\u0120Monarch\": 41768, \"atten\": 41769, \"\\u0120Peoples\": 41770, \"modified\": 41771, \"\\u0120moratorium\": 41772, \"\\u0120penchant\": 41773, \"\\u0120offensively\": 41774, \"\\u0120proxies\": 41775, \"okane\": 41776, \"\\u0120Taiwanese\": 41777, \"\\u0120Poo\": 41778, \"\\u0120HOME\": 41779, \"usional\": 41780, \"\\u0120verbs\": 41781, \"\\u0120Oman\": 41782, \"visory\": 41783, \"\\u0120persuasion\": 41784, \"\\u0120multit\": 41785, \"\\u0120scissors\": 41786, \"Gay\": 41787, \"oway\": 41788, \"ophysical\": 41789, \"lus\": 41790, \"gnu\": 41791, \"\\u0120apocalyptic\": 41792, \"\\u0120absurdity\": 41793, \"\\u0120playbook\": 41794, \"\\u0120autobiography\": 41795, \"IUM\": 41796, \"\\u0120sneaking\": 41797, \"\\u0120Simulation\": 41798, \"pps\": 41799, \"ellery\": 41800, \"Planet\": 41801, \"\\u0120rightfully\": 41802, \"\\u0120niece\": 41803, \"\\u0120NEC\": 41804, \"\\u0120IPO\": 41805, \"\\u0120Disclosure\": 41806, \"leanor\": 41807, \"ousy\": 41808, \"STER\": 41809, \"\\u0120282\": 41810, \"Cruz\": 41811, \"Chall\": 41812, \"643\": 41813, \"\\u0120Survive\": 41814, \"\\u0120Fatal\": 41815, \"\\u0120Amid\": 41816, \"apo\": 41817, \"Weapons\": 41818, \"DEN\": 41819, \"770\": 41820, \"\\u0120Greenwald\": 41821, \"\\u0120linen\": 41822, \"alos\": 41823, \"\\u0120pollutants\": 41824, \"\\u0120PCIe\": 41825, \"kat\": 41826, \"\\u0120paw\": 41827, \"\\u0120Kraft\": 41828, \"Chem\": 41829, \"\\u0120Terminator\": 41830, \"\\u0120reincarn\": 41831, \"\\u0120][\": 41832, \"\\u0120Seeds\": 41833, \"\\u0120silhouette\": 41834, \"\\u0120Stores\": 41835, \"\\u0120grooming\": 41836, \"\\u0120Direction\": 41837, \"\\u0120Isabel\": 41838, \"\\u0120Bridges\": 41839, \"\\u00f0\\u0141\\u0133\": 41840, \"EED\": 41841, \"\\u0120Morsi\": 41842, \"\\u0120valves\": 41843, \"\\u0120Ranked\": 41844, \"\\u0120Pharma\": 41845, \"\\u0120Organizations\": 41846, \"\\u0120penetrated\": 41847, \"\\u0120Rodham\": 41848, \"\\u0120Protoss\": 41849, \"\\u0120overest\": 41850, \"\\u0120exasper\": 41851, \"\\u0120TJ\": 41852, \"\\u0120000000\": 41853, \"\\u0120trickle\": 41854, \"\\u0120bourbon\": 41855, \"WHO\": 41856, \"\\u0120wretched\": 41857, \"\\u0120microscopic\": 41858, \"\\u0120checklist\": 41859, \"\\u0120adorned\": 41860, \"Royal\": 41861, \"Administ\": 41862, \"\\u0120Retirement\": 41863, \"\\u0120Highest\": 41864, \"Weather\": 41865, \"ilege\": 41866, \"\\u0120increments\": 41867, \"\\u0120Cosponsors\": 41868, \"\\u0120masse\": 41869, \"\\u0120Sinn\": 41870, \"rf\": 41871, \"\\u0120hordes\": 41872, \"assembly\": 41873, \"754\": 41874, \"\\u0120Natasha\": 41875, \"\\u0120TYPE\": 41876, \"\\u0120GENERAL\": 41877, \"\\u0120arranging\": 41878, \"\\u0120407\": 41879, \"lator\": 41880, \"\\u0120glean\": 41881, \"\\u0120discredited\": 41882, \"\\u0120clinicians\": 41883, \"UNE\": 41884, \"\\u0120achieves\": 41885, \"\\u0120Emerson\": 41886, \"complex\": 41887, \"=[\": 41888, \"\\u0120principally\": 41889, \"\\u0120frail\": 41890, \"picked\": 41891, \"\\u0120thanking\": 41892, \"\\u0120recl\": 41893, \"\\u0120LAST\": 41894, \"\\u0120suppressing\": 41895, \"ilic\": 41896, \"\\u0120antidepressant\": 41897, \"\\u0120Lisbon\": 41898, \"\\u0120thor\": 41899, \"\\u0120spa\": 41900, \"\\u0120kingdoms\": 41901, \"\\u0120Pearce\": 41902, \"emo\": 41903, \"\\u0120plung\": 41904, \"\\u0120divest\": 41905, \"\\u0120********************************\": 41906, \"bis\": 41907, \"ospels\": 41908, \"adr\": 41909, \"Spirit\": 41910, \"halla\": 41911, \"Pink\": 41912, \"endez\": 41913, \"\\u0120resurrected\": 41914, \"escape\": 41915, \"\\u0120Rosenstein\": 41916, \"\\u0120geological\": 41917, \"\\u0120necessities\": 41918, \"\\u0120carniv\": 41919, \"\\u0120Elys\": 41920, \"\\u0120Barney\": 41921, \"\\u0120296\": 41922, \"digy\": 41923, \"STON\": 41924, \"DOWN\": 41925, \"\\u0120milestones\": 41926, \"\\u0120ker\": 41927, \"\\u0120dismantling\": 41928, \"\\u0120reprim\": 41929, \"\\u0120crossings\": 41930, \"1945\": 41931, \"\\u0120patriarchy\": 41932, \"\\u0120blasphemy\": 41933, \"\\u0120359\": 41934, \"metry\": 41935, \"\\u0120Obesity\": 41936, \"\\u0120Differences\": 41937, \"blocking\": 41938, \"\\u00e3\\u0125\\u0137\\u00e3\\u0124\\u00a1\": 41939, \"ichita\": 41940, \"\\u0120Sabha\": 41941, \"phalt\": 41942, \"\\u0120Colo\": 41943, \"uala\": 41944, \"efficients\": 41945, \"\\u0120Medina\": 41946, \"console\": 41947, \"557\": 41948, \"\\u0120Hannibal\": 41949, \"\\u0120Habit\": 41950, \"\\u0120Fever\": 41951, \"\\u0120thence\": 41952, \"\\u0120synagogue\": 41953, \"\\u0120essentials\": 41954, \"\\u0120wink\": 41955, \"\\u0120Trader\": 41956, \"IDA\": 41957, \"\\u0120Spoiler\": 41958, \"\\u0120Icelandic\": 41959, \"\\u0120Hayward\": 41960, \"\\u0120peac\": 41961, \"\\u0120malice\": 41962, \"\\u0120flashback\": 41963, \"\\u0120thw\": 41964, \"\\u0120layoffs\": 41965, \"Liquid\": 41966, \"\\u0120trooper\": 41967, \"\\u0120hinge\": 41968, \"\\u0120Readers\": 41969, \"Phill\": 41970, \"\\u0120Bauer\": 41971, \"Created\": 41972, \"\\u0120audits\": 41973, \"accompan\": 41974, \"\\u0120unsuspecting\": 41975, \"iera\": 41976, \"66666666\": 41977, \"\\u0120broch\": 41978, \"\\u0120apprehended\": 41979, \"\\u0120Malk\": 41980, \"cerning\": 41981, \"\\u0120Codex\": 41982, \"OVER\": 41983, \"Marsh\": 41984, \"\\u0120Deng\": 41985, \"\\u0120Expression\": 41986, \"\\u0120disrespectful\": 41987, \"\\u0120ascending\": 41988, \"tests\": 41989, \"\\u0120Plaintiff\": 41990, \"stery\": 41991, \"\\u0120Alibaba\": 41992, \"dinand\": 41993, \"\\u0120Dempsey\": 41994, \"Applications\": 41995, \"moral\": 41996, \"\\u0120throughput\": 41997, \"\\u0120quarrel\": 41998, \"\\u0120mills\": 41999, \"\\u0120hemor\": 42000, \"\\u0120CASE\": 42001, \"terrorist\": 42002, \"stim\": 42003, \"ifestyle\": 42004, \"rozen\": 42005, \"CEPT\": 42006, \"Ark\": 42007, \"uci\": 42008, \"lectic\": 42009, \"\\u0120irritating\": 42010, \"sheets\": 42011, \"Ay\": 42012, \"\\u0120redeemed\": 42013, \"\\u0120horny\": 42014, \"\\u0120Teach\": 42015, \"\\u0120Sear\": 42016, \"democracy\": 42017, \"465\": 42018, \"\\u0120Restore\": 42019, \"\\u0120standby\": 42020, \"\\u0120Pis\": 42021, \"iffin\": 42022, \"\\u0120sleepy\": 42023, \"\\u0120extrater\": 42024, \"\\u0120compliments\": 42025, \"Frameworks\": 42026, \"\\u0120installs\": 42027, \"\\u0120banging\": 42028, \"surface\": 42029, \"foundland\": 42030, \"\\u0120metaphysical\": 42031, \"\\u0120283\": 42032, \"ouls\": 42033, \"devices\": 42034, \"Args\": 42035, \"\\u0120Sacrifice\": 42036, \"\\u0120McCorm\": 42037, \"eson\": 42038, \"Conservative\": 42039, \"\\u0120Mikhail\": 42040, \"seeing\": 42041, \"isively\": 42042, \"\\u0120Rooms\": 42043, \"\\u0120Generic\": 42044, \"\\u0120enthusiastically\": 42045, \"\\u0120gripped\": 42046, \"\\u0120comedic\": 42047, \"\\u0120Electricity\": 42048, \"\\u0120guerrilla\": 42049, \"\\u0120decoration\": 42050, \"\\u0120Perspective\": 42051, \"\\u0120consultations\": 42052, \"\\u0120unamb\": 42053, \"\\u0120plagiar\": 42054, \"\\u0120magician\": 42055, \"\\u0120erection\": 42056, \"\\u0120Tourism\": 42057, \"oried\": 42058, \"roxy\": 42059, \"1100\": 42060, \"Tam\": 42061, \"\\u012a\\u00e8\": 42062, \"\\u00ce\\u00b3\": 42063, \"\\u00d7\\u00aa\": 42064, \"\\u0120Predators\": 42065, \"Nitrome\": 42066, \"\\u0120telescopes\": 42067, \"projects\": 42068, \"\\u0120unprotected\": 42069, \"\\u0120stocked\": 42070, \"\\u0120Entreprene\": 42071, \"nexpected\": 42072, \"\\u0120wastewater\": 42073, \"Vill\": 42074, \"\\u0120intimately\": 42075, \"\\u0120iCloud\": 42076, \"\\u0120Constable\": 42077, \"\\u0120spoof\": 42078, \"\\u0120nefarious\": 42079, \"\\u0120fins\": 42080, \"\\u0120censor\": 42081, \"\\u0120Modes\": 42082, \"\\u0120Esper\": 42083, \"arbon\": 42084, \"\\u0120intersections\": 42085, \"\\u0120lauded\": 42086, \"\\u0120physi\": 42087, \"\\u0120generously\": 42088, \"\\u0120TheNitrome\": 42089, \"\\u0120TheNitromeFan\": 42090, \"\\u0120arisen\": 42091, \"\\u0120\\u00d9\\u012a\": 42092, \"\\u0120glands\": 42093, \"\\u0120Pavilion\": 42094, \"\\u0120Gupta\": 42095, \"\\u0120uniformly\": 42096, \"\\u0120ramps\": 42097, \"riet\": 42098, \"\\u0120WHEN\": 42099, \"\\u0120Vanessa\": 42100, \"\\u0120routed\": 42101, \"\\u0120limp\": 42102, \"\\u0120CPI\": 42103, \"pter\": 42104, \"intuitive\": 42105, \"\\u0120vaping\": 42106, \"\\u0120experimented\": 42107, \"\\u0120Olympus\": 42108, \"\\u0120Amon\": 42109, \"\\u0120sighting\": 42110, \"\\u0120infiltrate\": 42111, \"\\u0120Gentleman\": 42112, \"\\u0120signings\": 42113, \"\\u0120Meow\": 42114, \"\\u0120Navigation\": 42115, \"checks\": 42116, \"433\": 42117, \"\\u0120elapsed\": 42118, \"\\u0120Bulgarian\": 42119, \"espie\": 42120, \"\\u0120SOM\": 42121, \"during\": 42122, \"\\u0120spills\": 42123, \"anca\": 42124, \"\\u0120Plymouth\": 42125, \"MAL\": 42126, \"\\u0120domestically\": 42127, \"\\u0120Watergate\": 42128, \"\\u0120FAM\": 42129, \"killed\": 42130, \"edited\": 42131, \"\\u0120Yourself\": 42132, \"\\u0120synchronization\": 42133, \"\\u0120Practices\": 42134, \"STEP\": 42135, \"\\u0120genomes\": 42136, \"\\u0120QR\": 42137, \"notice\": 42138, \"\\u0120locating\": 42139, \"zin\": 42140, \"\\u0120329\": 42141, \"alcohol\": 42142, \"\\u0120kitten\": 42143, \"Vo\": 42144, \"\\u0120rinse\": 42145, \"\\u0120grapple\": 42146, \"\\u0120Screw\": 42147, \"\\u0120Dul\": 42148, \"AIR\": 42149, \"\\u0120leasing\": 42150, \"\\u0120Caf\\u00c3\\u00a9\": 42151, \"\\u0120roses\": 42152, \"\\u0120Respect\": 42153, \"\\u0120mislead\": 42154, \"\\u0120perfected\": 42155, \"\\u0120nudity\": 42156, \"\\u0120nonpartisan\": 42157, \"\\u0120Consumption\": 42158, \"Reporting\": 42159, \"\\u0120nuances\": 42160, \"\\u0120deductible\": 42161, \"\\u0120Shots\": 42162, \"\\u0120377\": 42163, \"\\u0120\\u00e6\\u013e\": 42164, \"anooga\": 42165, \"Benef\": 42166, \"\\u0120Bam\": 42167, \"\\u0120Samp\": 42168, \"ifix\": 42169, \"\\u0120galvan\": 42170, \"\\u0120Medals\": 42171, \"radius\": 42172, \"\\u0120nobles\": 42173, \"\\u0120eaves\": 42174, \"igrate\": 42175, \"KT\": 42176, \"\\u0120Harbour\": 42177, \"uers\": 42178, \"\\u0120risked\": 42179, \"req\": 42180, \"\\u0120neurot\": 42181, \"gettable\": 42182, \"aina\": 42183, \"Romney\": 42184, \"\\u0120underpin\": 42185, \"\\u0120loft\": 42186, \"\\u0120Subcommittee\": 42187, \"\\u0120Mongol\": 42188, \"biz\": 42189, \"\\u0120manifests\": 42190, \"assisted\": 42191, \"\\u0120Gaga\": 42192, \"\\u0120synergy\": 42193, \"\\u0120religiously\": 42194, \"\\u0120Pref\": 42195, \"\\u0120Gerry\": 42196, \"TAG\": 42197, \"\\u0120Choi\": 42198, \"466\": 42199, \"behind\": 42200, \"\\u0120Ou\": 42201, \"GoldMagikarp\": 42202, \"\\u0120hemorrh\": 42203, \"River\": 42204, \"\\u0120tendon\": 42205, \"\\u0120injure\": 42206, \"\\u0120Fiona\": 42207, \"\\u0120pag\": 42208, \"\\u0120agitation\": 42209, \"||||\": 42210, \"uran\": 42211, \"\\u0120ESA\": 42212, \"\\u0120esteem\": 42213, \"\\u0120dodging\": 42214, \"\\u0120412\": 42215, \"rss\": 42216, \"\\u0120ceases\": 42217, \"excluding\": 42218, \"\\u0120intakes\": 42219, \"\\u0120inserts\": 42220, \"\\u0120embold\": 42221, \"\\u0120Oral\": 42222, \"upuncture\": 42223, \"411\": 42224, \"\\u0120Unified\": 42225, \"\\u0120Dele\": 42226, \"\\u0120furnace\": 42227, \"\\u0120Coyotes\": 42228, \"\\u0120Brach\": 42229, \"Labor\": 42230, \"\\u0120handshake\": 42231, \"\\u0120bruises\": 42232, \"Grade\": 42233, \"\\u00e9\\u0139\\u013a\": 42234, \"\\u0120Grammy\": 42235, \"ileen\": 42236, \"States\": 42237, \"\\u0120Scandinavian\": 42238, \"\\u0120Kardash\": 42239, \"866\": 42240, \"\\u0120effortlessly\": 42241, \"\\u0120DIRECT\": 42242, \"\\u0120THEN\": 42243, \"\\u0120Mei\": 42244, \"ertation\": 42245, \"1968\": 42246, \"\\u0120groin\": 42247, \"witch\": 42248, \"Requirements\": 42249, \"985\": 42250, \"\\u0120roofs\": 42251, \"\\u0120estates\": 42252, \"\\u0120HF\": 42253, \"\\u0120haha\": 42254, \"\\u0120densely\": 42255, \"\\u0120OCT\": 42256, \"\\u0120plastics\": 42257, \"\\u0120incidentally\": 42258, \"\\u0120Tracks\": 42259, \"\\u0120Taxes\": 42260, \"\\u0120chanted\": 42261, \"\\u0120forceful\": 42262, \"\\u0120Bieber\": 42263, \"\\u0120Kahn\": 42264, \"Kent\": 42265, \"\\u0120Cot\": 42266, \"licts\": 42267, \"Fed\": 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\"\\u0120Mods\": 43099, \"\\u0120Springer\": 43100, \"\\u0120Container\": 43101, \"\\u00e8\\u00bb\": 43102, \"\\u0120Mens\": 43103, \"\\u0120multim\": 43104, \"\\u0120firefighter\": 43105, \"pec\": 43106, \"\\u0120chlorine\": 43107, \"\\u00d0\\u00bc\": 43108, \"endi\": 43109, \"\\u0120sparing\": 43110, \"\\u0120polygamy\": 43111, \"\\u0120RN\": 43112, \"\\u0120Pell\": 43113, \"\\u0120tigers\": 43114, \"\\u0120flashy\": 43115, \"\\u0120Madame\": 43116, \"Sword\": 43117, \"\\u0120prefrontal\": 43118, \"\\u0120prerequisite\": 43119, \"uca\": 43120, \"\\u0120wifi\": 43121, \"\\u0120misconception\": 43122, \"\\u0120harshly\": 43123, \"\\u0120Streaming\": 43124, \"otom\": 43125, \"\\u0120Giuliani\": 43126, \"footed\": 43127, \"\\u0120tubing\": 43128, \"individual\": 43129, \"zek\": 43130, \"nuclear\": 43131, \"mol\": 43132, \"\\u0120rightful\": 43133, \"493\": 43134, \"\\u0120specialization\": 43135, \"\\u0120passionately\": 43136, \"\\u0120Velocity\": 43137, \"\\u0120Availability\": 43138, \"Tenn\": 43139, \"\\u0120latch\": 43140, \"\\u0120Somebody\": 43141, \"\\u0120helium\": 43142, \"claw\": 43143, \"\\u0120dipping\": 43144, \"XXX\": 43145, \"\\u0120interpersonal\": 43146, \"710\": 43147, \"\\u0120subter\": 43148, \"\\u0120biologists\": 43149, \"\\u0120Lighting\": 43150, \"\\u0120optic\": 43151, \"\\u0120denim\": 43152, \"endon\": 43153, \"\\u0120Corm\": 43154, \"\\u0120341\": 43155, \"\\u0120Coup\": 43156, \"\\u0120fearless\": 43157, \"\\u0120alot\": 43158, \"\\u0120Clifford\": 43159, \"\\u0120Runtime\": 43160, \"\\u0120Provision\": 43161, \"updated\": 43162, \"leneck\": 43163, \"\\u0120neuron\": 43164, \"\\u0120grading\": 43165, \"\\u0120Ct\": 43166, \"sequence\": 43167, \"inia\": 43168, \"concept\": 43169, \"\\u0120roaring\": 43170, \"rival\": 43171, \"\\u0120Caucasian\": 43172, \"\\u0120monog\": 43173, \"keyes\": 43174, \"\\u0120appellate\": 43175, \"\\u0120liaison\": 43176, \"EStreamFrame\": 43177, \"\\u0120Plum\": 43178, \"!.\": 43179, \"\\u0120spherical\": 43180, \"\\u0120perished\": 43181, \"\\u0120blot\": 43182, \"\\u0120benches\": 43183, \"\\u0120411\": 43184, \"\\u0120pioneered\": 43185, \"\\u0120hurled\": 43186, \"Jennifer\": 43187, \"\\u0120Yosemite\": 43188, \"Chair\": 43189, \"\\u0120reefs\": 43190, \"\\u0120elector\": 43191, \"\\u0120Anthem\": 43192, \"652\": 43193, \"\\u0120uninstall\": 43194, \"\\u0120impede\": 43195, \"\\u0120blinking\": 43196, \"\\u0120goto\": 43197, \"Decre\": 43198, \"Aren\": 43199, \"\\u0120stabilization\": 43200, \"\\u0120Disabled\": 43201, \"\\u0120Yanukovych\": 43202, \"\\u0120outlawed\": 43203, \"\\u0120Ventura\": 43204, \"teness\": 43205, \"\\u0120plantation\": 43206, \"\\u0120yacht\": 43207, \"\\u0120Huawei\": 43208, \"\\u0120solvent\": 43209, \"\\u0120gracious\": 43210, \"\\u0120curiously\": 43211, \"\\u0120capacitor\": 43212, \"\\u0120cx\": 43213, \"\\u0120Reflex\": 43214, \"Phys\": 43215, \"\\u0120Cf\": 43216, \"ptin\": 43217, \"conservative\": 43218, \"\\u0120invocation\": 43219, \"cour\": 43220, \"FN\": 43221, \"\\u0120Newly\": 43222, \"Hour\": 43223, \"Asian\": 43224, \"\\u0120Leading\": 43225, \"\\u0120Aerospace\": 43226, \"Anne\": 43227, \"\\u0120prenatal\": 43228, \"\\u0120deteriorating\": 43229, \"HCR\": 43230, \"\\u0120Normandy\": 43231, \"olini\": 43232, \"\\u0120Ambro\": 43233, \"910\": 43234, \"\\u0120setbacks\": 43235, \"\\u0120TRE\": 43236, \"\\u0120sig\": 43237, \"\\u0120Scourge\": 43238, \"597\": 43239, \"798\": 43240, \"Gameplay\": 43241, \"\\u0120msec\": 43242, \"MX\": 43243, \"\\u0120pricey\": 43244, \"\\u0120LLP\": 43245, \"akeru\": 43246, \"\\u0120overarching\": 43247, \"\\u0120Bale\": 43248, \"\\u0120worldly\": 43249, \"Clark\": 43250, \"\\u0120scenic\": 43251, \"\\u0120disliked\": 43252, \"\\u0120Controlled\": 43253, \"Tickets\": 43254, \"\\u0120EW\": 43255, \"abies\": 43256, \"\\u0120Plenty\": 43257, \"Nonetheless\": 43258, \"\\u0120artisan\": 43259, \"Transfer\": 43260, \"\\u0120Famous\": 43261, \"\\u0120infield\": 43262, \"bley\": 43263, 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\"\\u0120susceptibility\": 43304, \"\\u0120Shiv\": 43305, \"\\u0120Limbaugh\": 43306, \"\\u0120\\u00c3\\u0138\": 43307, \"\\u0120NXT\": 43308, \"\\u0120Muss\": 43309, \"\\u0120Britons\": 43310, \"ESCO\": 43311, \"EGIN\": 43312, \"\\u0120%%\": 43313, \"\\u0120secession\": 43314, \"\\u0120Patron\": 43315, \"\\u0120Lua\": 43316, \"naires\": 43317, \"\\u0120JPMorgan\": 43318, \"usb\": 43319, \"ocyte\": 43320, \"\\u0120councillors\": 43321, \"\\u0120Liang\": 43322, \"farm\": 43323, \"\\u0120nervously\": 43324, \"\\u0120attractiveness\": 43325, \"\\u0120Kov\": 43326, \"jump\": 43327, \"Plot\": 43328, \"\\u0120stains\": 43329, \"\\u0120Statue\": 43330, \"\\u0120Apostles\": 43331, \"heter\": 43332, \"\\u0120SUPPORT\": 43333, \"\\u0120overwhelm\": 43334, \"YES\": 43335, \"\\u0120291\": 43336, \"density\": 43337, \"\\u0120trapping\": 43338, \"Mit\": 43339, \"\\u0120fide\": 43340, \"\\u0120Pamela\": 43341, \"atlantic\": 43342, \"Damn\": 43343, \"\\u0120pts\": 43344, \"OPA\": 43345, \"\\u0120servicing\": 43346, \"\\u0120overflowing\": 43347, \"ulo\": 43348, \"\\u0120Erit\": 43349, \"ticket\": 43350, \"lighting\": 43351, \"\\u0120Hmm\": 43352, \"\\u00e3\\u0125\\u00bc\\u00e3\\u0125\\u00ab\": 43353, \"imoto\": 43354, \"\\u0120chuckle\": 43355, \"423\": 43356, \"\\u00e3\\u0123\\u0137\": 43357, \"shape\": 43358, \"\\u0120queues\": 43359, \"\\u0120anchors\": 43360, \"\\u00e3\\u0124\\u00bc\\u00e3\\u0124\\u00a6\\u00e3\\u0124\\u00b9\": 43361, \"Fer\": 43362, \"\\u0120awoke\": 43363, \"\\u0120666\": 43364, \"hands\": 43365, \"\\u0120divergence\": 43366, \"\\u0120505\": 43367, \"Tips\": 43368, \"\\u0120depot\": 43369, \"\\u0120skew\": 43370, \"\\u0120Deliver\": 43371, \"opot\": 43372, \"\\u0120divul\": 43373, \"\\u0120EB\": 43374, \"unsigned\": 43375, \"\\u0120Uni\": 43376, \"Xbox\": 43377, \"\\u0120forks\": 43378, \"\\u0120702\": 43379, \"\\u00e5\\u00af\": 43380, \"\\u0120promoters\": 43381, \"\\u0120Vapor\": 43382, \"\\u0120levied\": 43383, \"slot\": 43384, \"\\u0120pigment\": 43385, \"\\u0120cylinders\": 43386, \"CRE\": 43387, \"\\u0120snatch\": 43388, \"\\u0120perpetually\": 43389, \"\\u0120licking\": 43390, \"\\u0120Feet\": 43391, \"\\u0120Kraken\": 43392, \"\\u0120Holden\": 43393, \"\\u0120CLSID\": 43394, \"mr\": 43395, \"\\u0120projector\": 43396, \"\\u0120denotes\": 43397, \"\\u0120chapel\": 43398, \"\\u0120Torrent\": 43399, \"bler\": 43400, \"Route\": 43401, \"\\u0120Defendant\": 43402, \"\\u0120Publishers\": 43403, \"\\u0120Males\": 43404, \"\\u0120Innov\": 43405, \"\\u0120Agility\": 43406, \"riter\": 43407, \"tymology\": 43408, \"stores\": 43409, \"Lind\": 43410, \"\\u0120folly\": 43411, \"\\u0120Zurich\": 43412, \"Ble\": 43413, \"\\u0120nurture\": 43414, \"\\u0120coastline\": 43415, \"uchin\": 43416, \"Domin\": 43417, \"\\u0120frivol\": 43418, \"\\u0120Consolid\": 43419, \"results\": 43420, \"MJ\": 43421, \"\\u0120phylogen\": 43422, \"\\u0120hauled\": 43423, \"\\u0120Wiley\": 43424, \"\\u0120Jessie\": 43425, \"\\u0120Prepare\": 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\"\\u0120automate\": 43511, \"\\u0120Kear\": 43512, \"\\u0120Coastal\": 43513, \"\\u0120creed\": 43514, \"\\u0120boredom\": 43515, \"\\u0120Stun\": 43516, \"riott\": 43517, \"\\u0124\\u0130\": 43518, \"\\u0120regenerate\": 43519, \"\\u0120comedians\": 43520, \"\\u0120OPER\": 43521, \"Spons\": 43522, \"idium\": 43523, \"onis\": 43524, \"Located\": 43525, \"057\": 43526, \"\\u0120suspense\": 43527, \"\\u0120Dating\": 43528, \"Cass\": 43529, \"\\u0120neocons\": 43530, \"\\u0120Shinzo\": 43531, \"\\u0120awoken\": 43532, \"christ\": 43533, \"\\u0120Messages\": 43534, \"attled\": 43535, \"\\u0120Spray\": 43536, \"\\u0120Spice\": 43537, \"CW\": 43538, \"\\u0120shielding\": 43539, \"\\u0120Gaul\": 43540, \"Amid\": 43541, \"\\u0120paramilitary\": 43542, \"\\u0120multif\": 43543, \"\\u0120Tanner\": 43544, \"ilk\": 43545, \"\\u0120goddamn\": 43546, \"gements\": 43547, \"\\u0120befriend\": 43548, \"mobi\": 43549, \"\\u0120388\": 43550, \"folder\": 43551, \"acca\": 43552, \"\\u0120insin\": 43553, \"gap\": 43554, \"Nev\": 43555, \"fifth\": 43556, \"\\u0120psychiatry\": 43557, \"banks\": 43558, \"THIS\": 43559, \"\\u0120harb\": 43560, \"acqu\": 43561, \"\\u0120facade\": 43562, \"\\u0120PowerPoint\": 43563, \"803\": 43564, \"\\u0120bluff\": 43565, \"Shares\": 43566, \"\\u0120favoring\": 43567, \"Elizabeth\": 43568, \"\\u00c3\\u012f\\u00c3\\u012f\": 43569, \"\\u0120ranger\": 43570, \"772\": 43571, \"\\u0120Arche\": 43572, \"hak\": 43573, \"\\u0120Genetics\": 43574, \"\\u0120FEMA\": 43575, \"\\u0120evolves\": 43576, \"\\u0120este\": 43577, \"\\u0120Pets\": 43578, \"\\u0120M\\u00c3\\u00a9\": 43579, \"\\u0120Interesting\": 43580, \"\\u0120Canterbury\": 43581, \"chapter\": 43582, \"\\u0120Starfleet\": 43583, \"Spanish\": 43584, \"\\u0120drawback\": 43585, \"\\u0120Norwich\": 43586, \"970\": 43587, \"north\": 43588, \"aganda\": 43589, \"\\u0120transformative\": 43590, \"ramids\": 43591, \"biology\": 43592, \"aday\": 43593, \"\\u0120propagation\": 43594, \"\\u0120Gamma\": 43595, \"\\u0120Denise\": 43596, \"\\u0120Calculator\": 43597, \"entimes\": 43598, \"\\u0120Bett\": 43599, \"\\u0120appendix\": 43600, \"\\u0120HDD\": 43601, \"AKING\": 43602, \"\\u0120stigmat\": 43603, \"\\u0120holster\": 43604, \"\\u0120ordinarily\": 43605, \"Chance\": 43606, \"\\u0120Contrary\": 43607, \"\\u0120adhesive\": 43608, \"\\u0120gathers\": 43609, \"612\": 43610, \"reau\": 43611, \"onyms\": 43612, \"eways\": 43613, \"\\u0120induces\": 43614, \"\\u0120interchangeable\": 43615, \"sem\": 43616, \"Whit\": 43617, \"\\u0120trance\": 43618, \"\\u0120incorporation\": 43619, \"\\u0120Extras\": 43620, \"Financial\": 43621, \"\\u0120awkwardly\": 43622, \"\\u0120Sturgeon\": 43623, \"\\u0120HY\": 43624, \"Normally\": 43625, \"\\u0120Ending\": 43626, \"\\u0120Assist\": 43627, \"encrypted\": 43628, \"\\u0120subjug\": 43629, \"\\u0120nos\": 43630, \"\\u0120fanatic\": 43631, \"Cub\": 43632, \"CU\": 43633, \"?\\\".\": 43634, \"\\u0120irreversible\": 43635, \"\\u00e5\\u0124\": 43636, \"031\": 43637, \"\\u0120HAR\": 43638, \"spread\": 43639, \"ulia\": 43640, \"=$\": 43641, \"Scope\": 43642, \"Lots\": 43643, \"\\u0120lifestyles\": 43644, \"olon\": 43645, \"\\u0120feds\": 43646, \"\\u0120congratulate\": 43647, \"webkit\": 43648, \"\\u0120indistinguishable\": 43649, \"\\u0120Swing\": 43650, \"\\u0120commandments\": 43651, \"quila\": 43652, \"abella\": 43653, \"methyl\": 43654, \"annabin\": 43655, \"\\u0120overe\": 43656, \"\\u0120lobster\": 43657, \"\\u0120QUEST\": 43658, \"\\u0120CONTIN\": 43659, \"bernatorial\": 43660, \"::::::::\": 43661, \"\\u0120Trave\": 43662, \"\\u0120Samoa\": 43663, \"ANI\": 43664, \"752\": 43665, \"\\u00d0\\u00b4\": 43666, \"usercontent\": 43667, \"\\u0120Moderate\": 43668, \"yeah\": 43669, \"\\u0120Kitt\": 43670, \"\\u0120wee\": 43671, \"\\u0120stuffing\": 43672, \"\\u0120Intervention\": 43673, \"\\u0120Dign\": 43674, \"\\u0120warehouses\": 43675, \"\\u0120Fiji\": 43676, \"\\u0120pellets\": 43677, \"\\u0120takeaway\": 43678, \"\\u0120TABLE\": 43679, \"\\u0120Classical\": 43680, \"collection\": 43681, \"\\u0120landfall\": 43682, \"\\u0120Muscle\": 43683, \"\\u0120settles\": 43684, \"\\u0120ADV\": 43685, \"\\u0120344\": 43686, \"Laura\": 43687, \"\\u0120fared\": 43688, \"\\u0120Partial\": 43689, \"436\": 43690, \"ossibility\": 43691, \"\\u0120Daly\": 43692, \"\\u0120Tarant\": 43693, \"\\u0120Fuji\": 43694, \"aml\": 43695, \"cence\": 43696, \"551\": 43697, \"\\u0120Procedures\": 43698, \"\\u0120OCD\": 43699, \"\\u0120UD\": 43700, \"tin\": 43701, \"QUI\": 43702, \"acho\": 43703, \"438\": 43704, \"\\u0120glitches\": 43705, \"\\u0120enchantment\": 43706, \"\\u0120calculates\": 43707, \"IRO\": 43708, \"\\u0120Hua\": 43709, \"alyses\": 43710, \"\\u0120Lift\": 43711, \"umo\": 43712, \"\\u0120leapt\": 43713, \"\\u0120hypothesized\": 43714, \"\\u0120Gustav\": 43715, \"itans\": 43716, \"VERSION\": 43717, \"\\u00e6\\u0142\": 43718, \"Roger\": 43719, \"\\u0120rand\": 43720, \"\\u0120Adapter\": 43721, \"\\u0120331\": 43722, \"\\u0120Petition\": 43723, \"kies\": 43724, \"Mars\": 43725, \"\\u0120undercut\": 43726, \"zees\": 43727, \"\\u0120Lyons\": 43728, \"\\u0120DHCP\": 43729, \"Missing\": 43730, \"\\u0120retirees\": 43731, \"\\u0120insidious\": 43732, \"eli\": 43733, \">)\": 43734, \".\\u00e3\\u0122\\u012f\": 43735, \"\\u0120finalists\": 43736, \"\\u0120Aure\": 43737, \"\\u0120accuser\": 43738, \"\\u0120wastes\": 43739, \"\\u0120Ys\": 43740, \"\\u0120Lori\": 43741, \"\\u0120constituencies\": 43742, \"\\u0120supper\": 43743, \"\\u0120mayhem\": 43744, \"orange\": 43745, \"\\u0120misplaced\": 43746, \"\\u0120managerial\": 43747, \"\\u0120exce\": 43748, \"\\u0120CLI\": 43749, \"\\u0120primal\": 43750, \"\\u0120Lent\": 43751, \"Crystal\": 43752, \"hover\": 43753, \"\\u0120NTS\": 43754, \"endum\": 43755, \"\\u0120dw\": 43756, \"\\u0120Alc\": 43757, \"nostic\": 43758, \"\\u0120preserves\": 43759, \"\\u0120Tsarnaev\": 43760, \"\\u0120tripled\": 43761, \"relative\": 43762, \"Arcade\": 43763, \"killing\": 43764, \"\\u0120WEEK\": 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\"\\u0120assigns\": 46974, \"\\u0120Penet\": 46975, \"\\u0120Monstrous\": 46976, \"\\u0120Bowen\": 46977, \"ilver\": 46978, \"Haunted\": 46979, \"\\u0120Ding\": 46980, \"started\": 46981, \"plin\": 46982, \"\\u0120contaminants\": 46983, \"\\u0120DOE\": 46984, \"ffen\": 46985, \"\\u0120Technician\": 46986, \"Ry\": 46987, \"\\u0120robbers\": 46988, \"\\u0120hotline\": 46989, \"\\u0120Guardiola\": 46990, \"\\u0120Kaufman\": 46991, \"rower\": 46992, \"\\u0120Dresden\": 46993, \"\\u0120Alpine\": 46994, \"Elf\": 46995, \"\\u0120fmt\": 46996, \"\\u0120Sard\": 46997, \"urses\": 46998, \"gpu\": 46999, \"Unix\": 47000, \"\\u0120unequivocally\": 47001, \"\\u0120Citizenship\": 47002, \"quad\": 47003, \"mire\": 47004, \"\\u0120Sweeney\": 47005, \"Battery\": 47006, \"615\": 47007, \"\\u0120pancakes\": 47008, \"\\u0120oats\": 47009, \"Maps\": 47010, \"\\u0120Contrast\": 47011, \"mbudsman\": 47012, \"\\u0120EPS\": 47013, \"\\u0120subcommittee\": 47014, \"\\u0120sourcing\": 47015, \"\\u0120sizing\": 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\"\\u0120worsen\": 47058, \"\\u0120scanners\": 47059, \"\\u0120deviations\": 47060, \"\\u0120Robotics\": 47061, \"\\u0120Compton\": 47062, \"\\u0120sorcerer\": 47063, \"\\u0120endogenous\": 47064, \"\\u0120emulation\": 47065, \"\\u0120Piercing\": 47066, \"\\u0120Aph\": 47067, \"\\u0120Socket\": 47068, \"\\u0120bould\": 47069, \"\\u0120OU\": 47070, \"\\u0120Borderlands\": 47071, \"\\u01201863\": 47072, \"Gordon\": 47073, \"\\u0120WTO\": 47074, \"\\u0120restricts\": 47075, \"\\u0120mosaic\": 47076, \"\\u0120melodies\": 47077, \"\\u00e7\\u0126\": 47078, \"Tar\": 47079, \"\\u0120disson\": 47080, \"\\u0120Provides\": 47081, \"\\u0120......\": 47082, \"bek\": 47083, \"FIX\": 47084, \"\\u0120broom\": 47085, \"anship\": 47086, \"Doctors\": 47087, \"\\u0120nerds\": 47088, \"\\u0120Regions\": 47089, \"naissance\": 47090, \"\\u0120mete\": 47091, \"\\u0120crept\": 47092, \"plings\": 47093, \"\\u0120girlfriends\": 47094, \"knit\": 47095, \"igent\": 47096, \"owe\": 47097, \"\\u0120ushered\": 47098, \"\\u0120Baz\": 47099, \"Mobil\": 47100, \"434\": 47101, \"\\u0120Presents\": 47102, \"origin\": 47103, \"\\u0120insomnia\": 47104, \"\\u0120Aux\": 47105, \"439\": 47106, \"\\u0120Chili\": 47107, \"irsch\": 47108, \"GAME\": 47109, \"\\u0120gestation\": 47110, \"algia\": 47111, \"romising\": 47112, \"$,\": 47113, \"crow\": 47114, \"\\u0120Inspection\": 47115, \"atomic\": 47116, \"Relations\": 47117, \"JOHN\": 47118, \"roman\": 47119, \"\\u0120Clockwork\": 47120, \"\\u0120Bakr\": 47121, \"mone\": 47122, \"MET\": 47123, \"\\u0120thirsty\": 47124, \"\\u0120bc\": 47125, \"\\u0120faculties\": 47126, \"Rum\": 47127, \"\\u0120nuance\": 47128, \"\\u0120Darius\": 47129, \"pleting\": 47130, \"fters\": 47131, \"etchup\": 47132, \"Registration\": 47133, \"\\u0120KE\": 47134, \"Rah\": 47135, \"\\u0120preferential\": 47136, \"\\u0120Lash\": 47137, \"\\u0120HH\": 47138, \"Valid\": 47139, \"\\u0120NAV\": 47140, \"\\u0120starve\": 47141, \"\\u0120Gong\": 47142, \"zynski\": 47143, \"\\u0120Actress\": 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\"\\u0120Confederation\": 47186, \"infeld\": 47187, \"\\u0120lyr\": 47188, \"moderate\": 47189, \"\\u0120perpendicular\": 47190, \"VK\": 47191, \"\\u0120synchronized\": 47192, \"\\u0120refreshed\": 47193, \"\\u0120adore\": 47194, \"\\u0120Torment\": 47195, \"olina\": 47196, \"\\u01202600\": 47197, \"ItemTracker\": 47198, \"\\u0120pies\": 47199, \"\\u0120FAT\": 47200, \"\\u0120RHP\": 47201, \"048\": 47202, \"\\u0120RESP\": 47203, \"\\u0120BJ\": 47204, \"allows\": 47205, \"Pand\": 47206, \"\\u0120unwelcome\": 47207, \"\\u0120Voc\": 47208, \"\\u0120Bastard\": 47209, \"\\u0120OW\": 47210, \"\\u0120LAR\": 47211, \"\\u0120Healer\": 47212, \"Environmental\": 47213, \"\\u0120Kenyan\": 47214, \"\\u0120Trance\": 47215, \"\\u0120Pats\": 47216, \"\\u0120aliases\": 47217, \"\\u0120Garfield\": 47218, \"\\u0120campaigner\": 47219, \"\\u0120advancements\": 47220, \"\\u0120Okinawa\": 47221, \"\\u0120Coh\": 47222, \"owsky\": 47223, \"\\u0120starved\": 47224, \"\\u0120sizeable\": 47225, \"\\u0120:-)\": 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\"\\u0120proletarian\": 47393, \"\\u0120scorp\": 47394, \"\\u0120Ada\": 47395, \"514\": 47396, \"\\u0120slander\": 47397, \"recorded\": 47398, \"\\u0120embell\": 47399, \"risome\": 47400, \"\\u0120apologizing\": 47401, \"\\u0120Mulcair\": 47402, \"\\u0120Gibraltar\": 47403, \"Cla\": 47404, \"\\u0120allot\": 47405, \"\\u0120Attention\": 47406, \"\\u0120433\": 47407, \"leave\": 47408, \"\\u0120whine\": 47409, \"\\u0120Issa\": 47410, \"\\u0120Faust\": 47411, \"\\u0120Barron\": 47412, \"heny\": 47413, \"\\u0120victimized\": 47414, \"Jews\": 47415, \"\\u0120nurturing\": 47416, \"ettel\": 47417, \"Winged\": 47418, \"\\u0120Subtle\": 47419, \"\\u0120flavorful\": 47420, \"\\u0120Reps\": 47421, \"enged\": 47422, \"callback\": 47423, \"\\u0120directional\": 47424, \"\\u0120clasp\": 47425, \"\\u0120Directions\": 47426, \"planet\": 47427, \"iculture\": 47428, \"Helper\": 47429, \"icion\": 47430, \"acia\": 47431, \"\\u0120\\u00e7\\u00a5\\u0140\": 47432, \"\\u0120surges\": 47433, \"\\u0120canoe\": 47434, \"\\u0120Premiership\": 47435, \"been\": 47436, \"\\u0120defied\": 47437, \"\\u0120Trooper\": 47438, \"\\u0120tripod\": 47439, \"\\u0120gasp\": 47440, \"\\u0120Euph\": 47441, \"\\u0120Ads\": 47442, \"vernight\": 47443, \"highly\": 47444, \"Role\": 47445, \"\\u0120entangled\": 47446, \"\\u0120Zeit\": 47447, \"618\": 47448, \"\\u0120Rusty\": 47449, \"\\u0120havens\": 47450, \"\\u0120Vaughan\": 47451, \"HAEL\": 47452, \"\\u0120SERVICE\": 47453, \"/,\": 47454, \"\\u0120stricken\": 47455, \"\\u0120delusions\": 47456, \"\\u0120bis\": 47457, \"\\u0120Haf\": 47458, \"\\u0120gratification\": 47459, \"\\u0120enticing\": 47460, \"UNCH\": 47461, \"Adams\": 47462, \"\\u0120OLED\": 47463, \"\\u0120Beetle\": 47464, \"\\u01201899\": 47465, \"\\u0120SOFTWARE\": 47466, \"ategor\": 47467, \"VL\": 47468, \"\\u0120Totem\": 47469, \"\\u0120Gators\": 47470, \"ATURES\": 47471, \"\\u0120impedance\": 47472, \"Registered\": 47473, \"\\u0120Cary\": 47474, \"\\u0120Aerial\": 47475, \"onne\": 47476, \"enium\": 47477, \"\\u0120dred\": 47478, \"\\u0120Beg\": 47479, \"\\u0120concurrently\": 47480, \"\\u0120superpower\": 47481, \"\\u0120Xan\": 47482, \"jew\": 47483, \"imester\": 47484, \"\\u0120Dickinson\": 47485, \"\\u00e2\\u0136\\u0123\": 47486, \"Fla\": 47487, \"\\u0120pree\": 47488, \"\\u0120Rollins\": 47489, \"\\u00a9\\u00b6\\u00e6\": 47490, \"\\u0120denomination\": 47491, \"\\u0120Lana\": 47492, \"516\": 47493, \"\\u0120inciting\": 47494, \"scribed\": 47495, \"juries\": 47496, \"\\u0120Wonders\": 47497, \"approximately\": 47498, \"\\u0120suspending\": 47499, \"\\u0120mountainous\": 47500, \"\\u0120Laugh\": 47501, \"oidal\": 47502, \"Ns\": 47503, \"Detect\": 47504, \")=\": 47505, \"\\u0120Luthor\": 47506, \"\\u0120Schwarzenegger\": 47507, \"\\u0120Muller\": 47508, \"\\u0120Devi\": 47509, \"ecycle\": 47510, \"Jar\": 47511, \"613\": 47512, \"\\u0120Longh\": 47513, \"Bah\": 47514, \"\\u0120SPORTS\": 47515, \"nw\": 47516, \"\\u0120refinement\": 47517, \"\\u0120waterways\": 47518, \"\\u0120diner\": 47519, \"Blade\": 47520, \"683\": 47521, \"Fac\": 47522, \"\\u0120initials\": 47523, \"\\u0120rog\": 47524, \"\\u0120paranormal\": 47525, \"BUT\": 47526, \"\\u0120[(\": 47527, \"\\u0120Swanson\": 47528, \"\\u0120Mesh\": 47529, \"\\u00e2\\u0138\\u00ac\": 47530, \"Improve\": 47531, \"\\u0120Radiation\": 47532, \"\\u0120Esther\": 47533, \"\\u0120Esk\": 47534, \"\\u0120Aly\": 47535, \"iky\": 47536, \"\\u0120irrad\": 47537, \"\\u0120Buckingham\": 47538, \"\\u0120refill\": 47539, \"\\u0120._\": 47540, \"Repe\": 47541, \"CONCLUS\": 47542, \"\\u0120differentiated\": 47543, \"\\u0120chirop\": 47544, \"\\u0120Atkins\": 47545, \"Pattern\": 47546, \"\\u0120excise\": 47547, \"\\u0120cabal\": 47548, \"NSA\": 47549, \"\\u0120STA\": 47550, \"\\u0120SIL\": 47551, \"\\u0120Paraly\": 47552, \"\\u0120rye\": 47553, \"\\u0120Howell\": 47554, \"\\u0120Countdown\": 47555, \"nesses\": 47556, \"alysed\": 47557, \"\\u0120resize\": 47558, \"\\u00e3\\u0124\\u00bd\": 47559, \"\\u0120budgetary\": 47560, \"\\u0120Stras\": 47561, \"wang\": 47562, \"\\u0120apiece\": 47563, \"\\u0120precincts\": 47564, \"\\u0120peach\": 47565, \"\\u0120skyline\": 47566, \"\\u0120353\": 47567, \"popular\": 47568, \"Appearances\": 47569, \"\\u0120Mechanics\": 47570, \"\\u0120DevOnline\": 47571, \"Sullivan\": 47572, \"Zen\": 47573, \"\\u0120pu\": 47574, \"opolis\": 47575, \"544\": 47576, \"\\u0120deform\": 47577, \"\\u0120counteract\": 47578, \"\\u0120Lange\": 47579, \"\\u0120417\": 47580, \"Console\": 47581, \"774\": 47582, \"\\u0120nodding\": 47583, \"\\u0120populism\": 47584, \"\\u0120hep\": 47585, \"\\u0120counselling\": 47586, \"compliance\": 47587, \"UFF\": 47588, \"\\u0120undeniably\": 47589, \"\\u0120railing\": 47590, \"\\u0120Horowitz\": 47591, \"\\u0120Simone\": 47592, \"\\u0120Bungie\": 47593, \"\\u0120ak\": 47594, \"\\u0120Talks\": 47595, \"xff\": 47596, \"flake\": 47597, \"Crash\": 47598, \"\\u0120sweaty\": 47599, \"\\u0120banquet\": 47600, \"\\u0120OFFIC\": 47601, \"\\u0120inventive\": 47602, \"\\u0120astronomer\": 47603, \"\\u0120Stamford\": 47604, \"\\u0120Scare\": 47605, \"\\u0120GREEN\": 47606, \"olicited\": 47607, \"\\u0120rusher\": 47608, \"\\u0120centrist\": 47609, \"ighting\": 47610, \"\\u0120subclass\": 47611, \"\\u0120disav\": 47612, \"\\u0120defund\": 47613, \"\\u0120Nanto\": 47614, \"ociate\": 47615, \"mast\": 47616, \"\\u0120pacif\": 47617, \"\\u0120mend\": 47618, \"eers\": 47619, \"immigration\": 47620, \"ESSION\": 47621, \"\\u0120numbering\": 47622, \"\\u0120laughable\": 47623, \"\\u0120Ended\": 47624, \"viation\": 47625, \"emark\": 47626, \"Pitt\": 47627, \"\\u0120meticulous\": 47628, \"\\u0120LF\": 47629, \"\\u0120congratulated\": 47630, \"\\u0120Birch\": 47631, \"\\u0120swayed\": 47632, \"\\u0120semifinals\": 47633, \"\\u0120humankind\": 47634, \"matter\": 47635, \"\\u0120Equip\": 47636, \"opausal\": 47637, \"Said\": 47638, \"\\u0120Layout\": 47639, \"\\u0120voicing\": 47640, \"\\u0120thug\": 47641, \"\\u0120pornographic\": 47642, \"IPS\": 47643, \"\\u0120moaning\": 47644, \"\\u0120grievance\": 47645, \"\\u0120confessions\": 47646, \"escal\": 47647, \"TEXTURE\": 47648, \"Authent\": 47649, \"osaurus\": 47650, \"Purchase\": 47651, \"\\u0120relegation\": 47652, \"alter\": 47653, \"\\u0120\\u00c2\\u0142\\u00c2\\u0142\": 47654, \"\\u0120riddled\": 47655, \"\\u0120ogre\": 47656, \"\\u0120Lowell\": 47657, \"Occup\": 47658, \"Eat\": 47659, \"\\u0120Hyder\": 47660, \"\\u0120Adviser\": 47661, \"Commerce\": 47662, \"Hunt\": 47663, \"\\u0120Orth\": 47664, \"\\u0120Competitive\": 47665, \"\\u0120CLA\": 47666, \"CDC\": 47667, \"\\u0120salads\": 47668, \"Fle\": 47669, \"\\u0120industrialized\": 47670, \"`,\": 47671, \"\\u0120OWN\": 47672, \"\\u0120beck\": 47673, \"\\u0120Particularly\": 47674, \"oubt\": 47675, \"\\u0120mM\": 47676, \"\\u0120Hussain\": 47677, \"\\u0120Chennai\": 47678, \"\\u0120920\": 47679, \"\\u0120appointing\": 47680, \"\\u0120Cullen\": 47681, \",,,,,,,,\": 47682, \"\\u0120pores\": 47683, \"verified\": 47684, \"\\u0120biochemical\": 47685, \"emate\": 47686, \"\\u0120cowardly\": 47687, \"\\u0120Helsinki\": 47688, \"\\u0120Ethiopian\": 47689, \"SOURCE\": 47690, \"ERC\": 47691, \"estro\": 47692, \"\\u0120biotech\": 47693, \"\\u0120Sour\": 47694, \"\\u0120brewer\": 47695, \"Bloomberg\": 47696, \"\\u0120intensify\": 47697, \"Glass\": 47698, \"anco\": 47699, \"\\u0120FDR\": 47700, \"greSQL\": 47701, \"\\u0120Fires\": 47702, \"\\u00a9\\u00b6\\u00e6\\u00a5\\u00b5\": 47703, \"eco\": 47704, \"1001\": 47705, \"\\u0120Homeless\": 47706, \"\\u0120instantaneous\": 47707, \"\\u0120Haste\": 47708, \"igel\": 47709, \"Diamond\": 47710, \"\\u0120paving\": 47711, \"\\u0120landfill\": 47712, \"\\u0120dads\": 47713, \"houn\": 47714, \":]\": 47715, \"\\u0120incendiary\": 47716, \"\\u0120Livingston\": 47717, \"\\u0120Hilbert\": 47718, \"\\u0120Checks\": 47719, \"styles\": 47720, \"inators\": 47721, \"\\u0120Clive\": 47722, \"phrine\": 47723, \"\\u0120chimpanzees\": 47724, \"\\u0120pall\": 47725, \"\\u0120JM\": 47726, \"\\u0120Aadhaar\": 47727, \"\\u00f0\\u013f\": 47728, \"\\u0120achievable\": 47729, \"disabled\": 47730, \"PET\": 47731, \"OOOOOOOO\": 47732, \"Mot\": 47733, \"\\u0120intangible\": 47734, \"\\u0120ballet\": 47735, \"\\u0120Webs\": 47736, \"\\u0120Estimated\": 47737, \"Effects\": 47738, \"\\u0120bailed\": 47739, \"Joshua\": 47740, \"\\u0120turbulence\": 47741, \"\\u0120occupant\": 47742, \"\\u0120Daylight\": 47743, \"\\u0120361\": 47744, \"meet\": 47745, \"\\u0120statically\": 47746, \"\\u0120onlook\": 47747, \"\\u0120ki\": 47748, \"illegal\": 47749, \"\\u0120velvet\": 47750, \"\\u0120dehydration\": 47751, \"\\u0120acquies\": 47752, \"\\u0120Rez\": 47753, \"akura\": 47754, \"\\u0120Upton\": 47755, \"atro\": 47756, \"\\u0120incomprehensible\": 47757, \"\\u0120backdoor\": 47758, \"\\u0120Rhino\": 47759, \"727\": 47760, \"\\u0120maths\": 47761, \")+\": 47762, \"\\u0120heresy\": 47763, \"\\u0120df\": 47764, \"\\u0120Roche\": 47765, \"\\u0120Lydia\": 47766, \"\\u0120pancreat\": 47767, \"reply\": 47768, \"arrell\": 47769, \"\\u0120solicitation\": 47770, \"\\u0120circadian\": 47771, \"BIP\": 47772, \"\\u0120foray\": 47773, \"\\u0120cryptic\": 47774, \"izu\": 47775, \"imeo\": 47776, \"\\u0120Tomato\": 47777, \"\\u0120Homs\": 47778, \"examination\": 47779, \"\\u0120quarry\": 47780, \"\\u0120Valiant\": 47781, \"\\u0120Jericho\": 47782, \"\\u0120INCLUD\": 47783, \"\\u01201840\": 47784, \"519\": 47785, \"\\u0120resists\": 47786, \"\\u0120snapshots\": 47787, \"\\u0120Spur\": 47788, \"\\u0120Antiqu\": 47789, \"Login\": 47790, \"\\u0120bestselling\": 47791, \"\\u0120antic\": 47792, \"\\u0120Sutherland\": 47793, \"\\u00e3\\u0124\\u00a2\\u00e3\\u0125\\u00ab\": 47794, \"\\u0120~/\": 47795, \"\\u0120Parm\": 47796, \"\\u00e8\\u0125\": 47797, \"Pages\": 47798, \"intensity\": 47799, \"\\u0120immobil\": 47800, \"\\u01201865\": 47801, \"zzo\": 47802, \"\\u0120nifty\": 47803, \"\\u0120fentanyl\": 47804, \"\\u0120Preservation\": 47805, \"ophen\": 47806, \"\\u0120darts\": 47807, \"\\u0120Dinosaur\": 47808, \"pointers\": 47809, \"\\u0120Rite\": 47810, \"suggest\": 47811, \"awareness\": 47812, \"\\u0120Sheridan\": 47813, \"\\u0120stances\": 47814, \"\\u0120sorcery\": 47815, \"\\u0120perjury\": 47816, \"\\u0120Nikola\": 47817, \"iever\": 47818, \"\\u0120fiance\": 47819, \"\\u0120Jordanian\": 47820, \"\\u0120Balloon\": 47821, \"\\u0120nab\": 47822, \"\\u0120kb\": 47823, \"\\u0120humanities\": 47824, \"\\u0120Tanaka\": 47825, \"hillary\": 47826, \"\\u0120consultancy\": 47827, \"\\u0120Zub\": 47828, \"\\u0120remission\": 47829, \"\\u0120confid\": 47830, \"CHQ\": 47831, \"\\u0120Fug\": 47832, \"\\u0120improvis\": 47833, \"Yep\": 47834, \"/_\": 47835, \"\\u0120unwillingness\": 47836, \"\\u0120portfolios\": 47837, \"055\": 47838, \"\\u0120Instructor\": 47839, \"aiman\": 47840, \"\\u0120claimants\": 47841, \"Mbps\": 47842, \"\\u0120Bye\": 47843, \"received\": 47844, \"Tweet\": 47845, \"\\u0120indemn\": 47846, \"riz\": 47847, \"amara\": 47848, \"Nat\": 47849, \"\\u0120evaluates\": 47850, \"\\u0120Lur\": 47851, \"epad\": 47852, \"FOX\": 47853, \"\\u0120Thro\": 47854, \"\\u0120rusty\": 47855, \"\\u0120bedrock\": 47856, \"\\u0120Oprah\": 47857, \"JB\": 47858, \"\\u0120manipulative\": 47859, \"\\u0120willful\": 47860, \"\\u0120relapse\": 47861, \"\\u0120extant\": 47862, \"Theme\": 47863, \"Sensor\": 47864, \"\\u0120Stability\": 47865, \"govern\": 47866, \"\\u0120poppy\": 47867, \"\\u0120knack\": 47868, \"\\u0120insulated\": 47869, \"\\u0120Tile\": 47870, \"\\u0120Extrem\": 47871, \"\\u0120untold\": 47872, \"\\u0120converge\": 47873, \"\\u0120refuel\": 47874, \"igroup\": 47875, \"\\u0120distortions\": 47876, \"\\u0120ravaged\": 47877, \"\\u0120mechanically\": 47878, \"\\u0120Reilly\": 47879, \"\\u0120Nose\": 47880, \"\\u0120Incarnation\": 47881, \"\\u0120Becky\": 47882, \"abbling\": 47883, \"\\u0120taco\": 47884, \"\\u0120rake\": 47885, \"\\u0120melancholy\": 47886, \"\\u0120illustrious\": 47887, \"\\u0120Dartmouth\": 47888, \"Guide\": 47889, \"\\u0120Razer\": 47890, \"\\u0120Benz\": 47891, \"Ultimate\": 47892, \"\\u0120Surprise\": 47893, \"\\u0120pageant\": 47894, \"offer\": 47895, \"Whoever\": 47896, \"\\u0120wiser\": 47897, \"\\u0120chemist\": 47898, \"\\u0120HELL\": 47899, \"\\u0120Bulk\": 47900, \"\\u0120plutonium\": 47901, \"\\u0120COVER\": 47902, \"\\u00d6\\u00bc\": 47903, \"failed\": 47904, \"\\u0120tirelessly\": 47905, \"\\u0120infertility\": 47906, \"\\u0120Trident\": 47907, \"\\u0120Showtime\": 47908, \"\\u0120Civ\": 47909, \"Vice\": 47910, \"requires\": 47911, \"ittance\": 47912, \"\\u0120uncontrolled\": 47913, \"interesting\": 47914, \"561\": 47915, \"\\u0120innovate\": 47916, \"ategic\": 47917, \"Lie\": 47918, \"\\u0120Selling\": 47919, \"Ul\": 47920, \"\\u0120savior\": 47921, \"\\u0120Tosh\": 47922, \"\\u0120swast\": 47923, \"PASS\": 47924, \"\\u0120rink\": 47925, \"\\u0120cardio\": 47926, \"\\u0120Iro\": 47927, \"udi\": 47928, \"\\u0120vantage\": 47929, \"\\u0120vans\": 47930, \"\\u0120Ni\\u00c3\\u00b1o\": 47931, \"+=\": 47932, \"\\u0120propagate\": 47933, \"<?\": 47934, \"\\u0120methodological\": 47935, \"20439\": 47936, \"\\u0120triglycer\": 47937, \"\\u0120ingrained\": 47938, \"\\u0120Annotations\": 47939, \"arranted\": 47940, \"617\": 47941, \"\\u0120Sodium\": 47942, \"\\u0120AAC\": 47943, \"technical\": 47944, \"multipl\": 47945, \"\\u0120373\": 47946, \"\\u00e5\\u012d\": 47947, \"\\u0120decisively\": 47948, \"\\u0120boosters\": 47949, \"\\u0120desserts\": 47950, \"\\u0120Grenade\": 47951, \"\\u0120testifying\": 47952, \"\\u0120Scully\": 47953, \"IDs\": 47954, \"\\u0120lockdown\": 47955, \"\\u0120Scher\": 47956, \"\\u0120R\\u00c3\\u00a9\": 47957, \"\\u0120Whitman\": 47958, \"\\u0120Ramsay\": 47959, \"remote\": 47960, \"\\u0120hikers\": 47961, \"\\u0120Hyundai\": 47962, \"\\u0120conscientious\": 47963, \"\\u0120clerics\": 47964, \"\\u0120Siberian\": 47965, \"uti\": 47966, \"isbury\": 47967, \"\\u0120relayed\": 47968, \"\\u0120quartz\": 47969, \"\\u0120CBI\": 47970, \"seekers\": 47971, \"ulla\": 47972, \"\\u0120welding\": 47973, \"\\u0120Shal\": 47974, \"bleacher\": 47975, \"Tai\": 47976, \"\\u0120Samson\": 47977, \"\\u0120tumble\": 47978, \"\\u0120Investor\": 47979, \"\\u0120subcontract\": 47980, \"\\u0120Shinra\": 47981, \"owicz\": 47982, \"jandro\": 47983, \"dad\": 47984, \"\\u0120terminating\": 47985, \"\\u0120Neural\": 47986, \"\\u00e4\\u00bb\\u00a3\": 47987, \"\\u0120leakage\": 47988, \"\\u0120Midlands\": 47989, \"\\u0120Caucasus\": 47990, \"\\u00ed\\u0137\": 47991, \"cit\": 47992, \"llan\": 47993, \"ivably\": 47994, \"\\u0120Albion\": 47995, \"\\u0120457\": 47996, \"\\u0120registrations\": 47997, \"\\u0120comrade\": 47998, \"\\u0120clipboard\": 47999, \"047\": 48000, \"\\u0120discouraging\": 48001, \"\\u0120Oops\": 48002, \"Adapt\": 48003, \"\\u0120empath\": 48004, \"nv\": 48005, \"\\u0120PROT\": 48006, \"\\u0120Donn\": 48007, \"\\u0120Pax\": 48008, \"\\u0120Bayer\": 48009, \"tis\": 48010, \"Square\": 48011, \"\\u0120footprints\": 48012, \"particip\": 48013, \"\\u0120Chilean\": 48014, \"Brend\": 48015, \"inducing\": 48016, \"Magn\": 48017, \"\\u0120clubhouse\": 48018, \"\\u0120Magnum\": 48019, \"\\u0120encamp\": 48020, \"\\u0120Ethnic\": 48021, \"ucha\": 48022, \"erey\": 48023, \"\\u0120watered\": 48024, \"\\u0120Calais\": 48025, \"\\u0120complexion\": 48026, \"\\u0120sects\": 48027, \"\\u0120renters\": 48028, \"\\u0120bras\": 48029, \"o\\u00c4\\u0141an\": 48030, \"Timeout\": 48031, \"Management\": 48032, \"\\u0120infographic\": 48033, \"Pokemon\": 48034, \"Clar\": 48035, \"\\u0120locality\": 48036, \"\\u0120flora\": 48037, \"asel\": 48038, \"Pont\": 48039, \"\\u0120populate\": 48040, \"\\u0120Ong\": 48041, \"\\u0120subsistence\": 48042, \"\\u0120auctions\": 48043, \"\\u0120McAuliffe\": 48044, \"\\u0120LOOK\": 48045, \"bringer\": 48046, \"\\u0120titan\": 48047, \"\\u0120manifold\": 48048, \"\\u0120\\u00e2\\u0139\\u0131\": 48049, \"\\u0120calibrated\": 48050, \"\\u0120caliphate\": 48051, \"\\u0120SHE\": 48052, \"\\u0120Commissioners\": 48053, \"ceivable\": 48054, \"jc\": 48055, \"Winner\": 48056, \"524\": 48057, \"\\u0120condone\": 48058, \"Otherwise\": 48059, \"\\u0120piling\": 48060, \"\\u0120embody\": 48061, \"\\u0120Crimean\": 48062, \"utics\": 48063, \"\\u0120Exhibition\": 48064, \"\\u0120426\": 48065, \"eering\": 48066, \"\\u0120vying\": 48067, \"\\u0120HUGE\": 48068, \"*=-\": 48069, \"\\u0120principled\": 48070, \"\\u00e0\\u00a6\": 48071, \"\\u0120quirks\": 48072, \"\\u0120Editors\": 48073, \"puting\": 48074, \"GES\": 48075, \"\\u0120FTA\": 48076, \"\\u00e0\\u00a4\\u00be\": 48077, \"addon\": 48078, \"\\u0120HAM\": 48079, \"\\u0120Frieza\": 48080, \"Woman\": 48081, \".$\": 48082, \"\\u0120crib\": 48083, \"\\u0120Herod\": 48084, \"\\u0120timers\": 48085, \"\\u0120Spaces\": 48086, \"\\u0120Macintosh\": 48087, \"ataka\": 48088, \"\\u0120glide\": 48089, \"\\u0120smelling\": 48090, \"\\u0120BAL\": 48091, \"\\u0120unsu\": 48092, \"\\u0120condos\": 48093, \"\\u0120bicycl\": 48094, \"\\u0120Revival\": 48095, \"553\": 48096, \"\\u0120juggling\": 48097, \"Hug\": 48098, \"\\u0120Kardashian\": 48099, \"\\u0120Balkans\": 48100, \"multiple\": 48101, \"\\u0120nutritious\": 48102, \"ocry\": 48103, \"1900\": 48104, \"\\u0120integrates\": 48105, \"\\u0120adjoining\": 48106, \"\\u0120Folder\": 48107, \"rollment\": 48108, \"venient\": 48109, \"\\u0120uber\": 48110, \"yi\": 48111, \"\\u0120whiff\": 48112, \"\\u0120Juven\": 48113, \"\\u0120Borough\": 48114, \"nette\": 48115, \"\\u0120bilingual\": 48116, \"\\u0120Sparks\": 48117, \"phthal\": 48118, \"manufact\": 48119, \"\\u0120touting\": 48120, \"\\u0120PHI\": 48121, \"Keefe\": 48122, \"Reward\": 48123, \"\\u0120infall\": 48124, \"\\u0120Temper\": 48125, \"typically\": 48126, \"\\u0120Nikol\": 48127, \"\\u0120regulars\": 48128, \"\\u0120pseudonym\": 48129, \"\\u0120exhibitions\": 48130, \"\\u0120blaster\": 48131, \"\\u0120409\": 48132, \"warming\": 48133, \"\\u0120reverber\": 48134, \"\\u0120reciprocal\": 48135, \"\\u0120670\": 48136, \"ipient\": 48137, \"bett\": 48138, \"\\u0120Begins\": 48139, \"\\u0120itching\": 48140, \"\\u0120Phar\": 48141, \"Assuming\": 48142, \"\\u0120emitting\": 48143, \"\\u0120MLG\": 48144, \"\\u0120birthplace\": 48145, \"\\u0120taunt\": 48146, \"\\u0120Luffy\": 48147, \"\\u0120Amit\": 48148, \"\\u0120circled\": 48149, \"\\u0120Nost\": 48150, \"ennett\": 48151, \"\\u0120deforestation\": 48152, \"\\u0120Historically\": 48153, \"\\u0120Everyday\": 48154, \"\\u0120overtake\": 48155, \"792\": 48156, \"\\u0120nun\": 48157, \"\\u0120Lucia\": 48158, \"\\u0120accompanies\": 48159, \"\\u0120Seeking\": 48160, \"\\u0120Trash\": 48161, \"anism\": 48162, \"Rogue\": 48163, \"\\u0120northwestern\": 48164, \"\\u0120Supplemental\": 48165, \"\\u0120NYU\": 48166, \"\\u0120FRI\": 48167, \"\\u0120Satisf\": 48168, \"xes\": 48169, \"517\": 48170, \"\\u0120reassured\": 48171, \"\\u0120sporadic\": 48172, \"\\u0120701\": 48173, \"\\u0120medial\": 48174, \"\\u0120cannabinoid\": 48175, \"\\u0120barbaric\": 48176, \"\\u0120epis\": 48177, \"\\u0120Explosive\": 48178, \"\\u0120Dough\": 48179, \"\\u0120unsolved\": 48180, \"Supported\": 48181, \"\\u0120acknowledgment\": 48182, \"spawn\": 48183, \"\\u0120kitchens\": 48184, \"\\u0120-=\": 48185, \"talking\": 48186, \"icist\": 48187, \"\\u0120Pegasus\": 48188, \"\\u0120PSU\": 48189, \"\\u0120photon\": 48190, \"\\u0120Authentication\": 48191, \"RG\": 48192, \"@#&\": 48193, \"762\": 48194, \"\\u0120Clair\": 48195, \"\\u0120diaper\": 48196, \"\\u0120brist\": 48197, \"\\u0120Prosecutors\": 48198, \"\\u0120Jem\": 48199, \"628\": 48200, \"\\u0120Everywhere\": 48201, \"\\u0120Jeanne\": 48202, \"equality\": 48203, \"\\u00e3\\u0125\\u00a9\\u00e3\\u0125\\u00b3\": 48204, \"objects\": 48205, \"\\u0120Pelicans\": 48206, \"\\u0120392\": 48207, \"\\u0120blu\": 48208, \"bys\": 48209, \"\\u0120Ago\": 48210, \"\\u0120instructional\": 48211, \"\\u0120discriminating\": 48212, \"\\u0120TRAN\": 48213, \"\\u0120Cornel\": 48214, \"agos\": 48215, \"\\u0120tyre\": 48216, \"\\u0120aspiration\": 48217, \"\\u0120Bridgewater\": 48218, \"\\\":-\": 48219, \"!\\\".\": 48220, \"\\u0120Ens\": 48221, \"\\u0120Coco\": 48222, \"Pie\": 48223, \"\\u0120detach\": 48224, \"\\u0120Couch\": 48225, \"\\u0120physique\": 48226, \"\\u0120Occupations\": 48227, \"oscopic\": 48228, \"enough\": 48229, \"Buzz\": 48230, \"Appearance\": 48231, \"YP\": 48232, \"\\u0120racer\": 48233, \"\\u0120complicity\": 48234, \"rpm\": 48235, \"Toy\": 48236, \"\\u0120interrupts\": 48237, \"\\u0120Catalyst\": 48238, \"\\u0120utilitarian\": 48239, \"impact\": 48240, \"\\u0120spaghetti\": 48241, \"\\u0120porous\": 48242, \"\\u0120esteemed\": 48243, \"\\u0120inciner\": 48244, \"\\u0120IOC\": 48245, \"748\": 48246, \"\\u0120espresso\": 48247, \"\\u0120Smile\": 48248, \"abilia\": 48249, \"635\": 48250, \"\\u0120mathematician\": 48251, \"\\u0120424\": 48252, \"\\u0120KL\": 48253, \"\\u0120HIP\": 48254, \"\\u0120overheard\": 48255, \"\\u0120Tud\": 48256, \"\\u0120Tec\": 48257, \"\\u0120quizz\": 48258, \"\\u0120flattering\": 48259, \"\\u0120conn\": 48260, \"\\u00e2\\u0122\\u0130\": 48261, \"\\u0120attaches\": 48262, \"\\u0120ROS\": 48263, \"\\u0120ACS\": 48264, \"\\u0120tcp\": 48265, \"\\u0120Shame\": 48266, \"skip\": 48267, \"respected\": 48268, \"\\u0120Trinidad\": 48269, \"grain\": 48270, \"\\u0120foothold\": 48271, \"\\u0120Uncharted\": 48272, \"\\u0120Julio\": 48273, \"zl\": 48274, \"avored\": 48275, \"\\u0120Anxiety\": 48276, \"errors\": 48277, \"\\u0120Centauri\": 48278, \"itsch\": 48279, \"Daddy\": 48280, \"\\u0120clutching\": 48281, \"\\u0120Implement\": 48282, \"\\u0120Gutierrez\": 48283, \"\\u0120760\": 48284, \"\\u0120teleportation\": 48285, \"endra\": 48286, \"\\u0120reversible\": 48287, \"stros\": 48288, \"Adventure\": 48289, \"083\": 48290, \"\\u0120liberating\": 48291, \"\\u0120asphalt\": 48292, \"\\u0120Spend\": 48293, \"ARDS\": 48294, \"imsy\": 48295, \"PRES\": 48296, \"\\u0120Emerging\": 48297, \"\\u0120wildfires\": 48298, \"\\u0120technologically\": 48299, \"\\u0120emits\": 48300, \"\\u0120ARTICLE\": 48301, \"\\u0120irregularities\": 48302, \"\\u0120cherish\": 48303, \"\\u00e7\\u012b\\u012a\": 48304, \"\\u0120stink\": 48305, \"\\u0120Rost\": 48306, \"Economic\": 48307, \"\\u0120coughing\": 48308, \"\\u0120McCann\": 48309, \"properties\": 48310, \"ilantro\": 48311, \"\\u0120renegoti\": 48312, \"Translation\": 48313, \"\\u0120inquest\": 48314, \"\\u0120Grape\": 48315, \"ooters\": 48316, \"gui\": 48317, \"\\u0120Swordsman\": 48318, \"aceae\": 48319, \"hitting\": 48320, \"\\u0120rc\": 48321, \"\\u0120exerted\": 48322, \"\\u0120SAP\": 48323, \"itent\": 48324, \"\\u0120perilous\": 48325, \"\\u0120obscurity\": 48326, \"\\u0120assassinate\": 48327, \"\\u0120aboriginal\": 48328, \"\\u0120rescuing\": 48329, \"\\u0120Shattered\": 48330, \"locking\": 48331, \"allion\": 48332, \"Changing\": 48333, \"\\u0120Harrington\": 48334, \"\\u0120Bord\": 48335, \"\\u0120Afghans\": 48336, \"Jamie\": 48337, \"aretz\": 48338, \"\\u0120Augustus\": 48339, \"\\u0120386\": 48340, \"830\": 48341, \"\\u0120jog\": 48342, \"okingly\": 48343, \"Trigger\": 48344, \"\\u0120HOR\": 48345, \"Statistics\": 48346, \"\\u0120viewership\": 48347, \"\\u0120additives\": 48348, \"hur\": 48349, \"\\u0120maximizing\": 48350, \"\\u0120Rove\": 48351, \"\\u0120Louie\": 48352, \"\\u0120Bucket\": 48353, \"\\u0120CHRIST\": 48354, \"ousel\": 48355, \"\\u0120streaks\": 48356, \"irted\": 48357, \"\\u0120tert\": 48358, \"\\u0120colonialism\": 48359, \"\\u0120burying\": 48360, \"yk\": 48361, \"Condition\": 48362, \"\\u0120DPRK\": 48363, \"ById\": 48364, \"751\": 48365, \"\\u00e2\\u0139\\u00bc\": 48366, \"\\u0120worrisome\": 48367, \"\\u0120vocational\": 48368, \"slice\": 48369, \"\\u0120sails\": 48370, \"\\u0120Correctional\": 48371, \"954\": 48372, \"\\u0120tul\": 48373, \"Kid\": 48374, \"luster\": 48375, \"\\u0120familial\": 48376, \"\\u0120Spit\": 48377, \"\\u0120Episcopal\": 48378, \"Specifically\": 48379, \"\\u0120Volcano\": 48380, \"runs\": 48381, \"qs\": 48382, \"\\u0120vetted\": 48383, \"\\u0120crammed\": 48384, \"trop\": 48385, \"herer\": 48386, \"Thankfully\": 48387, \"\\u0120percussion\": 48388, \"\\u0120oranges\": 48389, \"\\u0120roundup\": 48390, \"\\u0120499\": 48391, \"xious\": 48392, \"Characters\": 48393, \"\\u0120Zionism\": 48394, \"\\u0120Rao\": 48395, \"\\u00c3\\u013d\\u00c3\\u013d\": 48396, \"WF\": 48397, \"\\u0120unintentional\": 48398, \"ONEY\": 48399, \"Grab\": 48400, \"Commercial\": 48401, \"\\u0120glutamate\": 48402, \"\\u0120McKenna\": 48403, \"ruciating\": 48404, \"nington\": 48405, \"ihu\": 48406, \"Chan\": 48407, \"\\u0120Swap\": 48408, \"\\u0120leaflets\": 48409, \"\\u0120functionally\": 48410, \"erous\": 48411, \"Farm\": 48412, \"\\u0120caloric\": 48413, \"\\u0120Literally\": 48414, \"concert\": 48415, \"\\u0120shenan\": 48416, \"\\u0120repaid\": 48417, \"eyes\": 48418, \"\\u0120bashing\": 48419, \"\\u0120Gorge\": 48420, \"\\u0120collaborations\": 48421, \"\\u0120unaccount\": 48422, \"itchie\": 48423, \"\\u0120teamwork\": 48424, \"ppelin\": 48425, \"\\u0120piping\": 48426, \"\\u0120minced\": 48427, \"\\u0120diam\": 48428, \"rieg\": 48429, \"\\u0120mascara\": 48430, \"\\u0120sucker\": 48431, \"\\u0120Moons\": 48432, \"Apps\": 48433, \"\\u0120Peck\": 48434, \"\\u0120perv\": 48435, \"\\u0120Float\": 48436, \"oley\": 48437, \"\\u0120Nish\": 48438, \"imize\": 48439, \"\\u0120aromatic\": 48440, \"uin\": 48441, \"endish\": 48442, \"!/\": 48443, \"\\u0120Bicycle\": 48444, \"\\u0120ASIC\": 48445, \"ileged\": 48446, \"\\u0120Quadro\": 48447, \"iosyn\": 48448, \"\\u0120lockout\": 48449, \"\\u0120Wink\": 48450, \"SPEC\": 48451, \"Attempts\": 48452, \"\\u0120seeded\": 48453, \"redo\": 48454, \"iasis\": 48455, \"\\u0120snag\": 48456, \"\\u00e3\\u0125\\u0137\\u00e3\\u0124\\u00a9\": 48457, \"\\u00e3\\u0124\\u00b6\": 48458, \"\\u0120grounding\": 48459, \"\\u0120reliever\": 48460, \"\\u0120frivolous\": 48461, \"\\u0120Gifts\": 48462, \"\\u0120Faces\": 48463, \"Especially\": 48464, \"\\u0120microbiome\": 48465, \"imag\": 48466, \"\\u0120Schl\": 48467, \"\\u0120Ples\": 48468, \"\\u0120Bleach\": 48469, \"\\u0120Irwin\": 48470, \"\\u0120Eaton\": 48471, \"\\u0120Disciple\": 48472, \"\\u0120multiplication\": 48473, \"\\u0120coerced\": 48474, \"\\u0120419\": 48475, \"sth\": 48476, \"Evil\": 48477, \"Bomb\": 48478, \"\\u0120exorc\": 48479, \"\\u0120staggered\": 48480, \"LESS\": 48481, \"\\u0120inertia\": 48482, \"\\u0120EDIT\": 48483, \"\\u0120gob\": 48484, \"Traditional\": 48485, \"\\u0120classy\": 48486, \"Leary\": 48487, \"\\u0120PAGE\": 48488, \"yrs\": 48489, \"\\u0120transporter\": 48490, \"\\u0120matured\": 48491, \"\\u0120hijab\": 48492, \"\\u0120biome\": 48493, \"Whereas\": 48494, \"\\u0120extermination\": 48495, \"\\u0120Tues\": 48496, \"\\u0120Takeru\": 48497, \"\\u0120Audrey\": 48498, \"erial\": 48499, \"\\u0120Aden\": 48500, \"affles\": 48501, \"\\u0120narcissistic\": 48502, \"\\u0120Baird\": 48503, \"UTF\": 48504, \"Ire\": 48505, \"\\u0120Connie\": 48506, \"Champ\": 48507, \"\\u0120whispering\": 48508, \"\\u0120Hatt\": 48509, \"DK\": 48510, \"\\u0120disinfect\": 48511, \"\\u0120deducted\": 48512, \"\\u0120partake\": 48513, \"\\u0120downgrade\": 48514, \"\\u0120Esports\": 48515, \"\\u0120Continuing\": 48516, \"\\u0120democratically\": 48517, \"icrobial\": 48518, \"itta\": 48519, \"\\u0120limestone\": 48520, \"\\u0120exempted\": 48521, \"\\u0120Frenzy\": 48522, \"Herm\": 48523, \"728\": 48524, \"\\u0120fledgling\": 48525, \"Meta\": 48526, \"76561\": 48527, \"693\": 48528, \"%:\": 48529, \"wake\": 48530, \"526\": 48531, \"\\u0120Discipline\": 48532, \"\\u0120virginity\": 48533, \"\\u0120Legions\": 48534, \"\\u0120Frankie\": 48535, \"intent\": 48536, \"\\u0120restrooms\": 48537, \"\\u0120Router\": 48538, \"daq\": 48539, \"\\u0120objectionable\": 48540, \"\\u00e2\\u0128\\u0133\": 48541, \"wark\": 48542, \"\\u0120Rahul\": 48543, \"gain\": 48544, \"activation\": 48545, \"absolute\": 48546, \"\\u0120Accessed\": 48547, \"\\u01202400\": 48548, \"oggles\": 48549, \"\\u0120secondly\": 48550, \"\\u0120DEFENSE\": 48551, \"\\u0120postage\": 48552, \"wrapper\": 48553, \"sharp\": 48554, \"729\": 48555, \"\\u0120communicates\": 48556, \"\\u0120addon\": 48557, \"\\u0120Militia\": 48558, \"Hong\": 48559, \"\\u0120slumped\": 48560, \"\\u0120JPEG\": 48561, \"\\u0120Icar\": 48562, \"adish\": 48563, \"681\": 48564, \"\\u0120majesty\": 48565, \"\\u0120Wolfgang\": 48566, \"\\u0120Elastic\": 48567, \"uper\": 48568, \"\\u0120viz\": 48569, \"\\u0120unconsciously\": 48570, \"\\u0120STD\": 48571, \"\\u0120Sass\": 48572, \"\\u0120flowering\": 48573, \"\\u0120Helic\": 48574, \"\\u0120Draper\": 48575, \"\\u0120Amateur\": 48576, \"\\u0120manure\": 48577, \"\\u0120disingen\": 48578, \"\\u0120Lei\": 48579, \"bring\": 48580, \"949\": 48581, \"\\u0120inhibited\": 48582, \"\\u0120headquartered\": 48583, \"\\u0120enigmatic\": 48584, \"\\u00ef\\u00bf\\u00bd\\u00ef\\u00bf\\u00bd\\u00ef\\u00bf\\u00bd\": 48585, \"\\u0120redress\": 48586, \"RH\": 48587, \"\\u0120rattled\": 48588, \"\\u0120diction\": 48589, \"lio\": 48590, \"\\u0120TBA\": 48591, \"\\u0120SNAP\": 48592, \"Calling\": 48593, \"\\u0120fascists\": 48594, \"\\u0120Dove\": 48595, \"iewicz\": 48596, \"036\": 48597, \"\\u0120coasts\": 48598, \"\\u0120Rect\": 48599, \"\\u0120)]\": 48600, \"Lot\": 48601, \"629\": 48602, \"\\u0120SEM\": 48603, \"\\u0120Petersen\": 48604, \"\\u0120Explain\": 48605, \"\\u0120Boards\": 48606, \"\\u0120Bezos\": 48607, \"\\u0120Journals\": 48608, \"\\u01202024\": 48609, \"parser\": 48610, \"\\u0120mistrust\": 48611, \"\\u0120grate\": 48612, \"\\u0120Locked\": 48613, \"boa\": 48614, \"Saint\": 48615, \"gaming\": 48616, \"\\u0120vowel\": 48617, \"inately\": 48618, \"blow\": 48619, \"Allah\": 48620, \"\\u0120unmatched\": 48621, \"\\u0120bordering\": 48622, \"\\u0120Expend\": 48623, \"nr\": 48624, \"Oracle\": 48625, \"rouch\": 48626, \"\\u0120contiguous\": 48627, \"acus\": 48628, \"\\u0120distraught\": 48629, \"581\": 48630, \"\\u0120anatomical\": 48631, \"OX\": 48632, \"apixel\": 48633, \"833\": 48634, \"\\u0120PLUS\": 48635, \"\\u0120resusc\": 48636, \"\\u0120abiding\": 48637, \"573\": 48638, \"\\u0120vacancies\": 48639, \"Emily\": 48640, \"\\u0120hypothal\": 48641, \"\\u0120Werner\": 48642, \"\\u0120Wee\": 48643, \"\\u0120DJs\": 48644, \"513\": 48645, \"\\u0120witchcraft\": 48646, \"\\u0120acupuncture\": 48647, \"entary\": 48648, \"benefit\": 48649, \"Products\": 48650, \"\\u0120PSP\": 48651, \"\\u0120MPG\": 48652, \"\\u0120Jinn\": 48653, \"\\u0120Jarrett\": 48654, \"\\u0120445\": 48655, \"\\u0120Imaging\": 48656, \"\\u0120Pyth\": 48657, \"Finish\": 48658, \"\\u0120tex\": 48659, \"\\u0120juveniles\": 48660, \"\\u0120heroism\": 48661, \"\\u0120doubtless\": 48662, \"\\u0120Aki\": 48663, \"\\u0120Tend\": 48664, \"\\u0120Patriarch\": 48665, \"\\u0120bitters\": 48666, \"\\u0120Telecommunications\": 48667, \"itatively\": 48668, \"agna\": 48669, \"\\u0120rg\": 48670, \"\\u0120SOLD\": 48671, \"\\u0120compulsion\": 48672, \"\\u0120Nasa\": 48673, \"\\u0120Kathryn\": 48674, \"\\u0120millionaires\": 48675, \"\\u0120intrinsically\": 48676, \"\\u0120bolstered\": 48677, \"timeout\": 48678, \"flo\": 48679, \"\\u0120tutor\": 48680, \"pour\": 48681, \"Statement\": 48682, \"\\u0120{*\": 48683, \"\\u0120Rudolph\": 48684, \"\\u0120Kimberly\": 48685, \"rogens\": 48686, \"adiq\": 48687, \"]+\": 48688, \"\\u0120indignation\": 48689, \"\\u0120fracturing\": 48690, \"\\u0120Releases\": 48691, \"\\u0120Grain\": 48692, \"protein\": 48693, \"Lago\": 48694, \"\\u0120vacations\": 48695, \"\\u0120booted\": 48696, \"\\u0120THREE\": 48697, \"\\u0120HG\": 48698, \"orescence\": 48699, \"\\u0120tf\": 48700, \"\\u0120soar\": 48701, \"iosyncr\": 48702, \"\\u0120glances\": 48703, \"\\u0120Spoon\": 48704, \"\\u0120Jury\": 48705, \"\\u0120Cowboy\": 48706, \"\\u0120creatively\": 48707, \"Higher\": 48708, \"\\u0120solicitor\": 48709, \"\\u0120hawk\": 48710, \"acio\": 48711, \"896\": 48712, \"\\u0120superflu\": 48713, \"\\u0120bombshell\": 48714, \"cture\": 48715, \"\\u0120brokerage\": 48716, \"\\u0120raiding\": 48717, \"\\u0120french\": 48718, \"\\u0120angled\": 48719, \"Transaction\": 48720, \"\\u0120Genocide\": 48721, \"upe\": 48722, \"\\u0120Haitian\": 48723, \"572\": 48724, \"!:\": 48725, \"\\u0120unwittingly\": 48726, \"iterator\": 48727, \"scroll\": 48728, \"\\u0120tallied\": 48729, \"\\u0120biomedical\": 48730, \"\\u0120CARD\": 48731, \"\\u0120euphem\": 48732, \"\\u0120brainstorm\": 48733, \"aquin\": 48734, \"Ko\": 48735, \"Michelle\": 48736, \"\\u0120Runes\": 48737, \"\\u0120Ballistic\": 48738, \"uders\": 48739, \"\\u0120modesty\": 48740, \"\\u0120iPads\": 48741, \"\\u0120Ezekiel\": 48742, \"YE\": 48743, \"\\u0120starship\": 48744, \"\\u0120powerfully\": 48745, \"\\u0120perl\": 48746, \"\\u0120Shade\": 48747, \"\\u0120Quart\": 48748, \"\\u0120EEG\": 48749, \"\\u0120fisherman\": 48750, \"OSED\": 48751, \"\\u0120Typical\": 48752, \"dfx\": 48753, \"\\u0120meshes\": 48754, \"\\u0120etched\": 48755, \"worthiness\": 48756, \"\\u0120toppled\": 48757, \"\\u0120396\": 48758, \"orius\": 48759, \"Weiss\": 48760, \"\\u0120mysql\": 48761, \"\\u0120Valhalla\": 48762, \"\\u00d9\\u0134\": 48763, \"leasing\": 48764, \"\\u0120recomp\": 48765, \"rapnel\": 48766, \"Sel\": 48767, \"043\": 48768, \"\\u0120derailed\": 48769, \"\\u0120Guides\": 48770, \"IRT\": 48771, \"\\u0120dehuman\": 48772, \"\\u0120Brittany\": 48773, \"\\\"))\": 48774, \"\\u0120exclaim\": 48775, \"\\u0120balk\": 48776, \"\\u0120840\": 48777, \"CLAIM\": 48778, \"intel\": 48779, \"LAB\": 48780, \"\\u0120pegged\": 48781, \"\\u0120astroph\": 48782, \"smoking\": 48783, \"\\u0120rigging\": 48784, \"\\u0120fixation\": 48785, \"\\u0120catapult\": 48786, \"inside\": 48787, \"\\u0120Cascade\": 48788, \"\\u0120Bolshevik\": 48789, \"Gaza\": 48790, \"Depth\": 48791, \"\\u0120loudspe\": 48792, \"\\u0120almonds\": 48793, \"meyer\": 48794, \"leness\": 48795, \"jen\": 48796, \"fresh\": 48797, \"\\u0120unbeaten\": 48798, \"\\u0120Squid\": 48799, \"\\u0120Presumably\": 48800, \"Timer\": 48801, \"BW\": 48802, \"\\u0120rosters\": 48803, \"\\u0120ellipt\": 48804, \"\\u0120Harriet\": 48805, \"database\": 48806, \"\\u0120Mutual\": 48807, \"\\u0120Commodore\": 48808, \"uked\": 48809, \"knife\": 48810, \"\\u0120COMMUN\": 48811, \"hya\": 48812, \"\\u0120melts\": 48813, \"archives\": 48814, \"\\u0120ratification\": 48815, \"\\u0120multiplying\": 48816, \"\\u0120interoper\": 48817, \"\\u0120ascert\": 48818, \"wings\": 48819, \"verting\": 48820, \"\\u0120Scorpion\": 48821, \"aye\": 48822, \"\\u0120Portsmouth\": 48823, \"\\u0120MTA\": 48824, \"nit\": 48825, \"iazep\": 48826, \"\\u0120quarantine\": 48827, \"\\u0120slideshow\": 48828, \"\\u0120centimeters\": 48829, \"\\u0120synopsis\": 48830, \"\\u0120spate\": 48831, \"thirst\": 48832, \"\\u0120nominating\": 48833, \"\\u0120Melvin\": 48834, \"Preview\": 48835, \"\\u0120throb\": 48836, \"\\u0120generational\": 48837, \"\\u0120Radius\": 48838, \"restling\": 48839, \"putable\": 48840, \"awar\": 48841, \"NECT\": 48842, \"\\u0120unlawfully\": 48843, \"\\u0120Revelations\": 48844, \"Wikipedia\": 48845, \"surv\": 48846, \"\\u0120eyeing\": 48847, \"ijn\": 48848, \"\\u0120FW\": 48849, \"\\u0120brunt\": 48850, \"\\u0120interstellar\": 48851, \"\\u0120clitor\": 48852, \"\\u0120Croatian\": 48853, \"\\u0120Chic\": 48854, \"eva\": 48855, \"\\u0120Disapp\": 48856, \"\\u0120Akin\": 48857, \"ineries\": 48858, \"dust\": 48859, \"Interested\": 48860, \"\\u0120genesis\": 48861, \"\\u0120Eucl\": 48862, \"\\u00c3\\u00b6n\": 48863, \"picking\": 48864, \"\\u0120mutated\": 48865, \"\\u0120disapprove\": 48866, \"\\u0120HDL\": 48867, \"\\u0120625\": 48868, \"\\u00cc\\u00b6\": 48869, \"cancer\": 48870, \"\\u0120squats\": 48871, \"\\u0120levers\": 48872, \"Discuss\": 48873, \"=]\": 48874, \"Dex\": 48875, \"\\u0120VIDEOS\": 48876, \"AUD\": 48877, \"\\u0120transact\": 48878, \"\\u0120Kinect\": 48879, \"\\u0120Kuala\": 48880, \"\\u0120Cyp\": 48881, \"747\": 48882, \"\\u0120shattering\": 48883, \"\\u0120arsenic\": 48884, \"\\u0120Intake\": 48885, \"\\u0120Angelo\": 48886, \"\\u0120Quit\": 48887, \"\\u0120Khe\": 48888, \"\\u01201893\": 48889, \"Maker\": 48890, \"029\": 48891, \"\\u0120Painting\": 48892, \"Disable\": 48893, \"916\": 48894, \"\\u0120analges\": 48895, \"\\u0120tactile\": 48896, \"\\u0120prophes\": 48897, \"\\u0120diced\": 48898, \"\\u0120Travels\": 48899, \"\\u0120Header\": 48900, \"\\u0120Clubs\": 48901, \"Assistant\": 48902, \"\\u0120incrim\": 48903, \"\\u0120dips\": 48904, \"\\u0120crucifix\": 48905, \"\\u0120Shanahan\": 48906, \"\\u0120Interpret\": 48907, \"\\u01204090\": 48908, \"alogy\": 48909, \"abba\": 48910, \"\\u0120simulac\": 48911, \"husband\": 48912, \"SIM\": 48913, \"\\u0120recycle\": 48914, \"ucer\": 48915, \"edged\": 48916, \"\\u0120renaissance\": 48917, \"\\u0120Bombay\": 48918, \"Catholic\": 48919, \"\\u0120LINE\": 48920, \"\\u0120Clothing\": 48921, \"reports\": 48922, \"\\u0120plaus\": 48923, \"\\u0120dag\": 48924, \"\\u0120Mace\": 48925, \"ZI\": 48926, \"\\u0120intruder\": 48927, \"\\u0120Veterinary\": 48928, \"gru\": 48929, \"\\u0120sneaky\": 48930, \"\\u0120Sie\": 48931, \"\\u0120Cinnamon\": 48932, \"POSE\": 48933, \"\\u0120courier\": 48934, \"\\u0120CNS\": 48935, \"\\u0120emancipation\": 48936, \"sit\": 48937, \"\\u0120playthrough\": 48938, \"\\u0120Facilities\": 48939, \"virt\": 48940, \"\\u0120Gauntlet\": 48941, \"Thompson\": 48942, \"\\u0120unbelievably\": 48943, \"Parameters\": 48944, \"\\u0120stitching\": 48945, \"igne\": 48946, \"\\u0120THESE\": 48947, \"Privacy\": 48948, \"\\u0120shenanigans\": 48949, \"\\u0120vitri\": 48950, \"\\u0120Valid\": 48951, \"591\": 48952, \"\\u0143\\u00b7\": 48953, \"\\u0120Prototype\": 48954, \"inka\": 48955, \"SCP\": 48956, \"\\u0120Tid\": 48957, \"\\u00e8\\u012a\": 48958, \"olded\": 48959, \"\\u0120individuality\": 48960, \"\\u0120barking\": 48961, \"\\u0120mars\": 48962, \"\\u0120WD\": 48963, \"\\u0120820\": 48964, \"\\u0120tir\": 48965, \"\\u0120slapping\": 48966, \"\\u0120disgruntled\": 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\"bending\": 49667, \"\\u0120UNITED\": 49668, \"\\u0120465\": 49669, \"Assembly\": 49670, \"\\u0120weep\": 49671, \"\\u0120behest\": 49672, \"\\u0120Mothers\": 49673, \"\\u0120Jace\": 49674, \"hid\": 49675, \"\\u0120whirlwind\": 49676, \"\\u0120UNIVERS\": 49677, \"\\u0120utopian\": 49678, \"\\u0120kidnap\": 49679, \"Philipp\": 49680, \"Kin\": 49681, \"893\": 49682, \"\\u0120livestream\": 49683, \"\\u0120MISS\": 49684, \"\\u0120subversive\": 49685, \"\\u0120Techniques\": 49686, \"\\u0120JUSTICE\": 49687, \"\\u0120BASE\": 49688, \"\\u0120387\": 49689, \"\\u0120assailants\": 49690, \"\\u0120Hardcore\": 49691, \"\\u0120sprinkled\": 49692, \"\\u0120Pse\": 49693, \"\\u00e9\\u013c\": 49694, \"printed\": 49695, \"\\u0120Hau\": 49696, \"ORGE\": 49697, \"\\u0120TOUR\": 49698, \"\\u0120laced\": 49699, \"\\u0120itch\": 49700, \"Giving\": 49701, \"\\u0120ported\": 49702, \"781\": 49703, \"////////////////////////////////\": 49704, \"breeding\": 49705, \"\\u0120logger\": 49706, \"\\u0120HOL\": 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\"\\u0120Chevron\": 50083, \"CHECK\": 50084, \"\\u0120donkey\": 50085, \"crim\": 50086, \"SPA\": 50087, \"\\u0120Analog\": 50088, \"\\u0120marquee\": 50089, \"\\u0120Haas\": 50090, \"Bir\": 50091, \"\\u0120GDDR\": 50092, \"\\u0120Downloads\": 50093, \"\\u0120willpower\": 50094, \"\\u0120Forth\": 50095, \"\\u0120Recorded\": 50096, \"\\u0120impossibility\": 50097, \"\\u0120Logged\": 50098, \"\\u0120Franks\": 50099, \"\\u0120Ratt\": 50100, \"initions\": 50101, \"\\u0120cleaners\": 50102, \"\\u0120sorely\": 50103, \"\\u0120flickering\": 50104, \"\\u0120Examination\": 50105, \"catching\": 50106, \"alloween\": 50107, \"Msg\": 50108, \"\\u0120dunno\": 50109, \"Fa\": 50110, \"\\u0120dysph\": 50111, \"crazy\": 50112, \".''.\": 50113, \"\\u0120mainline\": 50114, \"\\u0120cs\": 50115, \"\\u0120ptr\": 50116, \"\\u0120Wally\": 50117, \"igun\": 50118, \"951\": 50119, \"\\u0120Bigfoot\": 50120, \"fights\": 50121, \"\\u0120retrieving\": 50122, \"Jr\": 50123, \"\\u0120duplication\": 50124, 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\"\\u01207000\": 50205, \"\\u0120Canary\": 50206, \"\\u0120kernels\": 50207, \"\\u0120Fran\\u00c3\\u00a7ois\": 50208, \"\\u0120Duff\": 50209, \"\\u0120Pon\": 50210, \"\\u0120Leica\": 50211, \"\\u0120Garmin\": 50212, \"\\u0120orphans\": 50213, \"\\u0120Claudia\": 50214, \"\\u0120calendars\": 50215, \"\\u0120Leilan\": 50216, \"ento\": 50217, \"Rocket\": 50218, \"\\u0120brunch\": 50219, \"\\u0120Hawking\": 50220, \"ainers\": 50221, \"\\u0120sensibilities\": 50222, \"\\u0120kW\": 50223, \"\\u0120Kand\": 50224, \"\\u0120reclaimed\": 50225, \"\\u0120interestingly\": 50226, \"\\u00d7\\u00a9\": 50227, \"romy\": 50228, \"JM\": 50229, \"\\u0120Enhancement\": 50230, \"bush\": 50231, \"Skip\": 50232, \"\\u0120rappers\": 50233, \"\\u0120gazing\": 50234, \"pedia\": 50235, \"athlon\": 50236, \"Revolution\": 50237, \"\\u0120snipers\": 50238, \"\\u0120reverted\": 50239, \"\\u0120conglomerate\": 50240, \"Terry\": 50241, \"794\": 50242, \"\\u0120harsher\": 50243, \"\\u0120desolate\": 50244, \"\\u0120Hitman\": 50245, \"Commission\": 50246, \"\\u0120(/\": 50247, \"\\u00e2\\u0122\\u00a6.\\\"\": 50248, \"Compar\": 50249, \"\\u0120amplification\": 50250, \"ominated\": 50251, \"\\u0120regress\": 50252, \"\\u0120Collider\": 50253, \"\\u0120informants\": 50254, \"\\u0120gazed\": 50255, \"<|endoftext|>\": 50256}" }, { "path": "packages/gpt2bpe/vocab.bpe", "content": "#version: 0.2\nĠ t\nĠ a\nh e\ni n\nr e\no n\nĠt he\ne r\nĠ s\na t\nĠ w\nĠ o\ne n\nĠ c\ni t\ni s\na n\no r\ne s\nĠ b\ne d\nĠ f\nin g\nĠ p\no u\nĠa n\na l\na r\nĠt o\nĠ m\nĠo f\nĠ in\nĠ d\nĠ h\nĠan d\ni c\na s\nl e\nĠt h\ni on\no m\nl l\nen t\nĠ n\nĠ l\ns t\nĠ re\nv e\nĠ e\nr o\nl y\nĠb e\nĠ g\nĠ T\nc t\nĠ S\ni d\no t\nĠ I\nu t\ne t\nĠ A\nĠ is\nĠ on\ni m\na m\no w\na y\na d\ns e\nĠth at\nĠ C\ni g\nĠf or\na c\nĠ y\nv er\nu r\nĠ u\nl d\nĠs t\nĠ M\n' s\nĠ he\nĠ it\nat ion\nit h\ni r\nc e\nĠy ou\ni l\nĠ B\nĠw h\no l\nĠ P\nĠw ith\nĠ 1\nt er\nc h\nĠa s\nĠw e\nĠ (\nn d\ni ll\nĠ D\ni f\nĠ 2\na g\ner s\nk e\nĠ \"\nĠ H\ne m\nĠc on\nĠ W\nĠ R\nhe r\nĠw as\nĠ r\no d\nĠ F\nu l\nat e\nĠa t\nr i\np p\no re\nĠT he\nĠs e\nu s\nĠp ro\nĠh a\nu m\nĠa re\nĠd e\na in\nan d\nĠo r\nig h\nes t\nis t\na b\nr om\nĠ N\nt h\nĠc om\nĠ G\nu n\no p\n0 0\nĠ L\nĠn ot\nes s\nĠe x\nĠ v\nre s\nĠ E\ne w\nit y\nan t\nĠb y\ne l\no s\nor t\no c\nq u\nĠf rom\nĠha ve\nĠs u\ni ve\nou ld\nĠs h\nĠth is\nn t\nr a\np e\nigh t\nar t\nm ent\nĠa l\nu st\nen d\n- -\nal l\nĠ O\nac k\nĠc h\nĠ le\ni es\nre d\nar d\nâ Ģ\nou t\nĠ J\nĠa b\ne ar\ni v\nal ly\nou r\no st\ng h\np t\nĠp l\nas t\nĠc an\na k\nom e\nu d\nT he\nĠh is\nĠd o\nĠg o\nĠh as\ng e\n' t\nĠ U\nr ou\nĠs a\nĠ j\nĠb ut\nĠw or\nĠa ll\ne ct\nĠ k\nam e\nĠw ill\no k\nĠw he\nĠthe y\nid e\n0 1\nf f\nic h\np l\nt her\nĠt r\n. .\nĠin t\ni e\nu re\nag e\nĠn e\ni al\na p\nin e\nic e\nĠm e\nĠo ut\nan s\non e\non g\nion s\nĠwh o\nĠ K\nĠu p\nĠthe ir\nĠa d\nĠ 3\nĠu s\nat ed\nou s\nĠm ore\nu e\no g\nĠS t\nin d\ni ke\nĠs o\nim e\np er\n. \"\nb er\ni z\na ct\nĠon e\nĠsa id\nĠ -\na re\nĠyou r\nc c\nĠT h\nĠc l\ne p\na ke\nab le\ni p\nĠcon t\nĠwh ich\ni a\nĠ im\nĠab out\nĠwe re\nver y\nu b\nĠh ad\nĠ en\nĠcom p\n, \"\nĠI n\nĠu n\nĠa g\ni re\nac e\na u\nar y\nĠw ould\nas s\nr y\nĠ âĢ\nc l\no ok\ne re\ns o\nĠ V\nig n\ni b\nĠof f\nĠt e\nv en\nĠ Y\ni le\no se\nit e\nor m\nĠ2 01\nĠre s\nĠm an\nĠp er\nĠo ther\nor d\nul t\nĠbe en\nĠl ike\nas e\nan ce\nk s\nay s\now n\nen ce\nĠd is\nct ion\nĠan y\nĠa pp\nĠs p\nin t\nres s\nation s\na il\nĠ 4\nic al\nĠthe m\nĠhe r\nou nt\nĠC h\nĠa r\nĠ if\nĠthe re\nĠp e\nĠy ear\na v\nĠm y\nĠs ome\nĠwhe n\nou gh\nac h\nĠth an\nr u\non d\nic k\nĠo ver\nve l\nĠ qu\nĊ Ċ\nĠs c\nre at\nre e\nĠI t\nou nd\np ort\nĠal so\nĠp art\nf ter\nĠk n\nĠbe c\nĠt ime\nen s\nĠ 5\nop le\nĠwh at\nĠn o\nd u\nm er\nan g\nĠn ew\n-- --\nĠg et\nor y\nit ion\ning s\nĠj ust\nĠint o\nĠ 0\nent s\no ve\nt e\nĠpe ople\nĠp re\nĠit s\nĠre c\nĠt w\ni an\nir st\nar k\nor s\nĠwor k\nad e\no b\nĠs he\nĠo ur\nw n\nin k\nl ic\nĠ1 9\nĠH e\nis h\nnd er\nau se\nĠh im\non s\nĠ [\nĠ ro\nf orm\ni ld\nat es\nver s\nĠon ly\no ll\nĠs pe\nc k\ne ll\nam p\nĠa cc\nĠb l\ni ous\nur n\nf t\no od\nĠh ow\nhe d\nĠ '\nĠa fter\na w\nĠat t\no v\nn e\nĠpl ay\ner v\nic t\nĠc ould\nit t\nĠa m\nĠf irst\nĠ 6\nĠa ct\nĠ $\ne c\nh ing\nu al\nu ll\nĠcom m\no y\no ld\nc es\nat er\nĠf e\nĠbe t\nw e\nif f\nĠtw o\noc k\nĠb ack\n) .\nid ent\nĠu nder\nrou gh\nse l\nx t\nĠm ay\nrou nd\nĠp o\np h\nis s\nĠd es\nĠm ost\nĠd id\nĠad d\nj ect\nĠin c\nf ore\nĠp ol\non t\nĠag ain\ncl ud\nter n\nĠkn ow\nĠne ed\nĠcon s\nĠc o\nĠ .\nĠw ant\nĠse e\nĠ 7\nn ing\ni ew\nĠTh is\nc ed\nĠe ven\nĠin d\nt y\nĠW e\nat h\nĠthe se\nĠp r\nĠu se\nĠbec ause\nĠf l\nn g\nĠn ow\nĠâĢ ĵ\nc om\nis e\nĠm ake\nĠthe n\now er\nĠe very\nĠU n\nĠse c\nos s\nu ch\nĠe m\nĠ =\nĠR e\ni ed\nr it\nĠin v\nle ct\nĠsu pp\nat ing\nĠl ook\nm an\npe ct\nĠ 8\nro w\nĠb u\nĠwhe re\nif ic\nĠyear s\ni ly\nĠd iff\nĠsh ould\nĠre m\nT h\nI n\nĠe v\nd ay\n' re\nri b\nĠre l\ns s\nĠde f\nĠr ight\nĠs y\n) ,\nl es\n00 0\nhe n\nĠth rough\nĠT r\n_ _\nĠw ay\nĠd on\nĠ ,\nĠ1 0\nas ed\nĠas s\nub lic\nĠre g\nĠA nd\ni x\nĠ very\nĠin clud\not her\nĠim p\not h\nĠsu b\nĠâĢ Ķ\nĠbe ing\nar g\nĠW h\n= =\nib le\nĠdo es\nan ge\nr am\nĠ 9\ner t\np s\nit ed\nation al\nĠb r\nĠd own\nĠman y\nak ing\nĠc all\nur ing\nit ies\nĠp h\nic s\nal s\nĠde c\nat ive\nen er\nĠbe fore\nil ity\nĠwe ll\nĠm uch\ners on\nĠth ose\nĠsu ch\nĠ ke\nĠ end\nĠB ut\nas on\nt ing\nĠl ong\ne f\nĠth ink\ny s\nĠbe l\nĠs m\nit s\na x\nĠo wn\nĠpro v\nĠs et\nif e\nment s\nb le\nw ard\nĠsh ow\nĠp res\nm s\nom et\nĠo b\nĠs ay\nĠS h\nt s\nf ul\nĠe ff\nĠg u\nĠin st\nu nd\nre n\nc ess\nĠ ent\nĠY ou\nĠgo od\nĠst art\nin ce\nĠm ade\nt t\nst em\nol og\nu p\nĠ |\num p\nĠhe l\nver n\nul ar\nu ally\nĠa c\nĠm on\nĠl ast\nĠ2 00\n1 0\nĠst ud\nu res\nĠA r\nsel f\nar s\nmer ic\nu es\nc y\nĠm in\noll ow\nĠc ol\ni o\nĠm od\nĠc ount\nĠC om\nhe s\nĠf in\na ir\ni er\nâĢ Ķ\nre ad\nan k\nat ch\ne ver\nĠst r\nĠpo int\nor k\nĠN ew\nĠs ur\no ol\nal k\nem ent\nĠus ed\nra ct\nwe en\nĠs ame\nou n\nĠA l\nc i\nĠdiff ere\nĠwh ile\n---- ----\nĠg ame\nce pt\nĠs im\n.. .\nĠin ter\ne k\nĠre port\nĠpro du\nĠst ill\nl ed\na h\nĠhe re\nĠwor ld\nĠth ough\nĠn um\nar ch\nim es\nal e\nĠS e\nĠI f\n/ /\nĠL e\nĠre t\nĠre f\nĠtr ans\nn er\nut ion\nter s\nĠt ake\nĠC l\nĠcon f\nw ay\na ve\nĠgo ing\nĠs l\nu g\nĠA meric\nĠspe c\nĠh and\nĠbet ween\nist s\nĠD e\no ot\nI t\nĠe ar\nĠagain st\nĠh igh\ng an\na z\nat her\nĠex p\nĠo p\nĠin s\nĠg r\nĠhel p\nĠre qu\net s\nin s\nĠP ro\nis m\nĠf ound\nl and\nat a\nus s\nam es\nĠp erson\nĠg reat\np r\nĠs ign\nĠA n\n' ve\nĠs omet\nĠs er\nh ip\nĠr un\nĠ :\nĠt er\nire ct\nĠf ollow\nĠd et\nic es\nĠf ind\n1 2\nĠm em\nĠc r\ne red\ne x\nĠex t\nut h\nen se\nc o\nĠte am\nv ing\nou se\nas h\nat t\nv ed\nĠsy stem\nĠA s\nd er\niv es\nm in\nĠle ad\nĠB l\nc ent\nĠa round\nĠgo vern\nĠc ur\nvel op\nan y\nĠc our\nal th\nag es\niz e\nĠc ar\nod e\nĠl aw\nĠre ad\n' m\nc on\nĠre al\nĠsupp ort\nĠ1 2\n.. ..\nĠre ally\nn ess\nĠf act\nĠd ay\nĠb oth\ny ing\nĠs erv\nĠF or\nĠth ree\nĠw om\nĠm ed\nod y\nĠThe y\n5 0\nĠex per\nt on\nĠe ach\nak es\nĠc he\nĠc re\nin es\nĠre p\n1 9\ng g\nill ion\nĠg rou\nut e\ni k\nW e\ng et\nE R\nĠm et\nĠs ays\no x\nĠd uring\ner n\niz ed\na red\nĠf am\nic ally\nĠha pp\nĠI s\nĠch ar\nm ed\nv ent\nĠg ener\ni ent\np le\ni et\nre nt\n1 1\nv es\npt ion\nĠ2 0\nform ation\nĠc or\nĠoff ic\nie ld\nĠto o\nis ion\nĠin f\nĠ Z\nt he\no ad\nĠp ublic\nĠpro g\nr ic\n* *\nĠw ar\nĠp ower\nv iew\nĠf ew\nĠl oc\nĠdiffere nt\nĠst ate\nĠhe ad\n' ll\nĠp oss\nĠst at\nre t\nant s\nĠv al\nĠis s\nĠc le\ni vers\nan c\nĠex pl\nĠan other\nĠ Q\nĠa v\nth ing\nn ce\nW h\nĠch ild\nĠs ince\ni red\nl ess\nĠl ife\nĠde velop\nitt le\nĠde p\nĠp ass\nã ĥ\nĠt urn\nor n\nTh is\nb ers\nro ss\nĠA d\nĠf r\nĠres p\nĠsec ond\no h\nĠ /\nĠdis c\nĠ &\nĠsomet hing\nĠcomp le\nĠ ed\nĠf il\nĠmon th\na j\nu c\nĠgovern ment\nĠwith out\nĠle g\nĠd ist\nĠp ut\nĠqu est\nan n\nĠpro t\n2 0\nĠne ver\ni ence\nĠle vel\nĠar t\nĠth ings\nĠm ight\nĠeff ect\nĠcont ro\nĠc ent\nĠ1 8\nĠall ow\nĠbel ie\nch ool\not t\nĠinc re\nĠfe el\nĠres ult\nĠl ot\nĠf un\not e\nĠt y\nere st\nĠcont in\nĠus ing\nĠb ig\n2 01\nĠas k\nĠb est\nĠ )\nI N\nĠo pp\n3 0\nĠnum ber\nin ess\nS t\nle ase\nĠc a\nĠm ust\nĠd irect\nĠg l\nĠ <\nĠop en\nĠp ost\nĠcom e\nĠse em\nord ing\nĠwe ek\nate ly\nit al\nĠe l\nri end\nĠf ar\nĠt ra\nin al\nĠp ri\nĠU S\nĠpl ace\nĠfor m\nĠto ld\n\" :\nain s\nat ure\nĠTr ump\nĠst and\nĠ #\nid er\nĠF r\nĠne xt\nĠs oc\nĠp ur\nĠle t\nĠl ittle\nĠh um\nĠ i\nr on\n1 5\nĠ1 5\nĠcomm un\nĠm ark\nĠThe re\nĠw r\nĠTh at\nĠin formation\nw ays\nĠb us\na pp\nĠinv est\nm e\nĠh ard\nain ed\ne ad\nĠim port\nĠapp ro\nĠt est\nĠt ri\nĠre st\nos ed\nĠf ull\nĠc are\nĠS p\nĠc ase\nO N\nĠs k\nĠl ess\nĠ +\nĠpart ic\nĠP l\nab ly\nu ck\nis hed\nch n\nb e\nĠl ist\nat or\nĠto p\nĠad v\nĠB e\nru ct\nĠd em\nr ation\nl ing\ng y\nre en\ng er\nĠh ome\nĠle ft\nĠbet ter\nĠd ata\nĠ1 1\nĠatt ack\nĠpro ble\nl ine\nard s\nĠbe h\nr al\nĠH ow\nĠS he\nar ge\nĠ --\n: //\nĠb ro\nĠP h\nat s\nĠbu ild\nw w\nid ed\na im\nas es\nen cy\nĠm ain\nin ed\nĠinclud ing\nĠ {\nĠg ot\nĠint erest\nĠke ep\nĠ X\nĠe as\nain ing\nĠcl ass\nâĢ ¦\nĠN o\nĠv ar\nĠsm all\namp le\nA T\nĠ ide\nĠS o\nĠre ce\nĠpol it\nĠm ov\nĠpl an\nĠper cent\niv ing\nĠc amp\nĠp ay\n1 4\ns c\nis ed\nĠu nt\none y\npl oy\n== ==\nĠdid n\nĠI nd\nel s\nert ain\nĠp os\n__ __\ni ver\nĠpro cess\nĠprog ram\nif ied\nĠR ep\n1 6\nu ro\nolog y\nat ter\nin a\nĠn ame\nĠA ll\nĠf our\nĠret urn\nv ious\nb s\nĠcall ed\nĠm ove\nĠS c\nir d\nĠgrou p\nĠb re\nĠm en\nĠc ap\nt en\ne e\nĠd ri\nle g\nhe re\nuth or\nĠp at\nĠcur rent\nid es\nĠp op\nt o\nent ion\nĠal ways\nĠm il\nĠwom en\nĠ1 6\nĠo ld\niv en\nra ph\nĠO r\nr or\nent ly\nĠn ear\nĠE x\nre am\ns h\nĠ1 4\nĠf ree\niss ion\nst and\nĠC on\nal ity\nus ed\n1 3\nĠdes ign\nĠch ange\nĠch ang\nĠb o\nĠv is\nem ber\nĠb ook\nread y\nĠk ill\n2 5\npp ed\nĠa way\nĠab le\nĠcount ry\nĠcon st\nar n\nĠor der\nA R\ni or\ni um\nor th\n1 8\nail able\nĠs w\nĠm illion\nĠ1 3\nat ic\nt ed\nĠG o\nĠo per\nen g\nĠth ing\naj or\ncon om\nĠCom m\nĠwh y\nu red\nur al\nĠs chool\nb y\nĠM ar\nĠa ff\nĠd ays\nĠan n\nus h\nan e\nI f\ne g\nĠpro f\nĠhe alth\nou th\nB ut\nion al\n. ,\nĠs ol\nĠal ready\nĠ3 0\nĠchar act\nH e\nĠf riend\nE S\ni ans\nic le\n' d\nĠO n\nĠle ast\nĠp rom\nĠd r\nĠh ist\nit her\nĠ est\ni qu\n1 7\ns on\nĠte ll\nĠt alk\noh n\no int\nle ction\nA N\nĠunt il\nau gh\nĠl ater\nĠ ve\nĠv iew\nend ing\niv ed\nĠwor d\nw are\nĠc ost\nĠen ough\nĠg ive\nĠUn ited\nĠte chn\nare nt\nO R\nĠp ar\nĠD r\nĠ201 6\nr ist\ner ing\nĠ Â\nĠl arge\ns ide\nac y\ncc ess\nĠw in\nĠimport ant\nĠ19 9\nĠdoes n\nĠ1 7\nĠbus iness\nĠcle ar\nĠre se\n\" ,\nur y\nĠe qu\nas ter\nal f\nĠAmeric an\nn ect\nĠex pect\nivers ity\nĠo cc\nĠF l\nĠk ind\nĠme an\nĠp ast\nĠde v\nĠb as\nle t\nra ft\nĠor gan\nĠde l\nĠper form\nĠst ory\nĠse ason\nĠC ol\nĠcl aim\nĠc ame\nĠwith in\nĠl ine\nĠpro ject\nĠA t\nĠcontro l\nend ed\nĠS y\nĠa ir\niz ation\nĠ *\nle y\nĠm oney\nid d\nY ou\nf or\nĠfam ily\nĠm aking\nĠb it\nĠpol ice\nĠhapp en\nĠ vers\non y\nu ff\nĠW hen\nĠs it\nide o\nl f\nis on\nĠsu re\ng in\nĠapp ear\nĠl ight\nĠ es\no f\nĠw ater\nĠt imes\nn ot\nĠg row\nĠcomp any\nĠT e\now s\nĠm ar\nour ce\ni ol\nar m\nb r\nĠex ample\nĠcon c\nĠf ore\nĠT o\np ro\nE N\nri es\nĠ2 5\nĠC an\nne y\nĠact ually\nĠe ver\nur ity\nak en\nap s\nĠt ax\nĠm ajor\nam a\nĠof ten\ner al\nĠhum an\nĠj ob\nis ter\nĠav ailable\noc r\nen n\na id\niv id\nĠrec ord\n? \"\nĠs ing\nĠA m\nid ence\nĠnew s\nst er\nĠe conom\nĠfollow ing\nĠB r\nis ing\nĠh our\nm ost\num ent\nĠse x\nĠdes c\nĠbec ome\nĠE d\nĠto ok\nĠha ving\nĠprodu ct\na ult\nA s\nar ing\nĠme ans\nĠh op\nun e\nĠch o\nĠc ertain\nĠn on\nĠde al\n2 4\nle ment\noc i\nen e\nĠs ide\nĠP r\nĠM ay\nĠre ason\nu ed\nc hed\nul ation\nĠe lect\nĠoffic ial\nĠposs ible\nĠh old\nand s\not s\nĠc ity\nor ies\nĠse ver\nĠchild ren\nĠon ce\nĠact iv\nl er\nĠn ight\nit ions\nĠJ ohn\na pe\npl ay\nĠd one\nĠl im\nĠwork ing\nĠP res\nor ld\ne b\nĠC o\nĠb ody\nail s\nut es\nĠM r\nĠwhe ther\nĠa uthor\nro p\nĠpro per\nĠse en\n) ;\nĠf ac\nĠS u\nĠcon d\nit ing\nĠcour se\nĠ }\n-------- --------\na ign\nĠev ent\nĠen g\nĠp ot\nĠin tern\ni am\nĠsh ort\nem pt\nã Ĥ\nĠG od\nil ar\n8 0\nĠor ig\nI S\nour n\nab ility\nit ive\nĠd am\nĠ1 00\nĠp ress\nĠdo ing\nĠprot ect\nr ing\nĠthough t\nĠquest ion\nre w\nĠW ar\nĠsever al\nĠSt ate\nĠg iven\nĠf und\nĠT w\nĠw ent\nan ces\nw ork\np or\nm y\n4 0\nĠar g\nart ment\nust om\nĠpol ic\nĠme et\nĠc reat\n2 2\nĠSt ates\nĠg ames\nra w\nut ure\nĠunder stand\nur s\nĠO b\nl ish\ns y\nĠm akes\nĠw on\nag on\nĠh tt\nĠl ove\nent ial\nĠcomple te\np ar\nĠI m\nA L\nĠacc ount\n ł\nore d\nver t\nĠ ident\nĠ201 5\nĠother s\nĠM in\ni ber\nver age\nThe re\nition al\nd d\nĠpro b\nĠyou ng\nĠal ong\nĠacc ording\nĠy et\nĠmem bers\nĠWh at\no id\nĠM an\nA nd\nĠam ong\na i\nĠem ploy\nĠR es\nĠ >\nĠinv ol\nĠl ow\na f\nĠC ar\nĠh ig\nĠO ne\nĠS ec\nin ation\nĠlike ly\nĠan t\nag ed\nĠR uss\nĠb en\nĠre le\nF or\nb ack\nĠN ot\nĠpres ident\nb all\nĠacc ess\nivid ual\nĠD em\nĠE uro\n6 0\nĠkn own\nir l\nĠG r\nĠear ly\nu se\niet y\nâĢ ĵ\nĠf ight\nĠs ent\nĠto day\nĠmark et\n\" .\nĠb ased\nĠstr ong\nur ther\nĠde b\nm ber\nĠproble m\nĠde ath\nĠsoc ial\nim ate\nA S\nort un\nĠcamp aign\ner y\nC h\nĠe y\ni ally\nĠm us\nw h\np os\nĠ er\nĠsa f\nĠmonth s\nir on\nĠv iol\nĠf ive\nĠst re\nĠplay ers\nin c\nal d\ny ear\na un\nĠsu ccess\nĠpres ent\nere nce\nĠ201 4\nĠsu gg\nĠpartic ular\nĠtr y\nĠsugg est\nĠCh rist\non es\nĠpri v\n2 3\nĠc rit\nĠl and\nĠloc al\nif y\n2 9\nĠa ut\nE D\nĠG u\nĠm ult\nĠpolit ical\nĠask ed\nĠfor mer\nit ter\nri pt\nĠcl ose\nĠp ract\nĠY ork\nĠget ting\nĠac ross\nĠcom b\nĠbelie ve\nĠ z\nĠto get\nĠtoget her\nĠC ent\nir c\nĠind ividual\nĠM c\n2 7\nis k\nĠE ng\nĠf ace\nĠ2 4\nĠval ue\nĠare a\ne v\nĠw rit\nĠPres ident\nĠv ot\nĠke y\nĠm om\np ut\nĠany thing\nĠexper ience\natt le\nĠm ind\na ff\nom m\nĠf uture\ng ed\nĠc ut\nĠto t\nit ch\nĠv ideo\nĠinvest ig\nĠn et\nĠM y\nr ict\ni en\n. )\nĠimp ro\nth ough\nward s\nĠcon nect\nĠM ed\nsel ves\nens ive\nm b\no ber\nat ors\nA n\nĠ5 0\nĠre du\nres ent\nĠab ove\nĠf re\nĠEuro pe\ns w\nĠam ount\nĠA pp\nĠe ither\nĠmil it\nĠan al\nĠf ail\nĠE n\nal es\nĠspec ial\nĠbl ack\nI T\nc her\nĠlook ing\nĠf ire\ny n\nĠal most\no on\nĠstud y\nĠm iss\nc hes\nro wn\nĠt re\nĠcommun ity\nĠmed ia\nĠf ood\nĠcom es\nĠUn iversity\nĠsing le\nWh at\nu ly\nĠh alf\nag ue\nh od\nĠRep ublic\nĠstart ed\nĠqu ick\not o\nb ook\nĠiss ue\nit or\nĠel se\nĠcons ider\n2 6\nro du\nĠt aken\n2 8\n9 9\nĠW ith\nĠtr ue\nĠw a\nĠtr ad\nĠag o\nĠm ess\nie f\nĠadd ed\no ke\nĠb ad\nĠf av\n3 3\nĠsim ilar\nas k\nĠD on\nĠcharact er\nort s\nĠH ouse\nĠreport ed\nĠty pe\nv al\ni od\nĠHow ever\nĠt arg\nĠent ire\npp ing\nĠhist ory\nĠl ive\nff ic\n.... ....\ned eral\nĠtr ying\nĠdisc uss\nĠH ar\nac es\nl ished\nĠse lf\nos p\nre st\nĠro om\nel t\nĠf all\nol ution\nĠe t\nĠ x\nĠis n\nĠide a\nb o\nĠs ound\nĠD ep\nĠsome one\nci ally\null y\nĠf oc\nĠob ject\nif t\nap er\nĠplay er\nĠr ather\nĠserv ice\nas hing\nĠD o\nĠP art\nru g\nm on\np ly\nĠm or\nĠnot hing\nĠprov ide\nI C\nun g\nĠpart y\nĠex ist\nĠm ag\n7 0\nĠr ul\nĠh ouse\nĠbeh ind\nĠhow ever\nĠW orld\nĠs um\nĠapp lic\nĠ ;\nĠfun ction\ng r\nĠP ol\nĠfr ont\n2 00\nĠser ies\nĠt em\nĠty p\nill s\nĠo pt\nĠpoint s\nĠbel ow\nitt ed\nĠspec ific\nĠ201 7\num b\nĠr a\nĠpre vious\nĠpre t\nre me\nĠc ustom\nĠcour t\nĠM e\nĠre pl\nĠwho le\ng o\nc er\nĠt reat\nĠA ct\nĠprob ably\nĠle arn\nend er\nĠA ss\nĠvers ion\nn ow\nĠche ck\nĠC al\nR E\nmin ist\nO n\nour ces\nĠben ef\nĠd oc\nĠdet er\nĠen c\nĠsu per\nĠadd ress\nĠv ict\nĠ201 3\nĠme as\nt r\nĠf ield\nW hen\nĠsign ific\nu ge\nĠfe at\nĠcomm on\nl oad\nĠbe gin\nĠbr ing\nĠa ction\ner man\nĠdesc rib\nĠind ust\nĠwant ed\nri ed\nm ing\nĠatt empt\n4 5\nf er\nĠd ue\nress ion\n# #\nĠsh all\nĠs ix\no o\nĠst ep\nĠp ub\nĠhim self\nĠ2 3\nĠc op\nĠd est\nĠst op\nA C\nib ility\nĠl ab\nic ult\nĠhour s\nĠcre ate\nĠf urther\nĠAmeric a\nĠC ity\nĠd ou\nhe ad\nS T\nĠN orth\nc ing\nĠn ational\nu le\nĠIn st\nĠt aking\nĠQ u\nir t\nĠre d\nĠrese arch\nv iron\nĠG e\nĠbre ak\nan a\nĠsp ace\nater ial\nĠrec ent\nĠA b\nĠgener al\nĠh it\nĠper iod\nĠevery thing\nive ly\nĠph ys\nĠsay ing\nan ks\nĠc ou\nĠc ult\nac ed\ne al\nu ation\nĠc oun\nl u\nĠinclud e\nĠpos ition\nĠA fter\nĠCan ad\nĠE m\nĠim m\nĠR ed\nĠp ick\nĠcom pl\nĠm atter\nre g\ne xt\nang u\nis c\no le\na ut\nĠcomp et\ne ed\nf ect\nĠ2 1\nĠS en\nĠThe se\nas ing\nĠcan not\nĠin it\nĠrel ations\nac hed\nĠb ar\nĠ4 0\nĠT H\nĠ201 2\nĠv ol\nĠg round\nĠsec urity\nĠup d\nil t\n3 5\nĠconc ern\nĠJ ust\nĠwh ite\nĠseem s\nĠH er\npe cially\ni ents\nĠann oun\nĠf ig\night s\nĠst ri\nl ike\nid s\nĠs us\nĠw atch\nĠ â\nĠw ind\nĠC ont\nĠit self\nĠm ass\nA l\ny le\niqu e\nĠN ational\nĠab s\nĠp ack\nĠout side\nĠan im\nĠp ain\net er\nĠman ag\ndu ct\nog n\nĠ ]\nĠSe pt\nse c\no ff\nĠJ an\nĠf oot\nad es\nĠth ird\nĠm ot\nĠev idence\nint on\nĠth reat\na pt\npl es\nc le\nĠl o\nĠde cl\nĠit em\nmed i\nĠrep resent\nom b\nam er\nĠsignific ant\nog raph\ns u\nĠc al\ni res\n00 00\nI D\nA M\nĠsim ply\nĠlong er\nĠf ile\nO T\nc he\nS o\nate g\nor g\nĠH is\nĠen er\nĠd om\nĠup on\nil i\n\": \"\nĠthem selves\nĠcom ing\nĠqu ite\nĠdiff icult\nĠB ar\nil ities\nre l\nend s\nc ial\n6 4\nĠwom an\nra p\ny r\nĠne cess\nip s\nĠte xt\nĠrequ ire\nĠmilit ary\nĠre view\nĠresp ons\n7 5\nĠsub ject\nĠinst ead\nĠiss ues\nĠg en\n\" ,\"\nĠmin utes\nĠwe ap\nr ay\nam ed\nt ime\nb l\nH ow\nĠc ode\nĠS m\nĠhig her\nĠSt e\nr is\nĠp age\nĠstud ents\nĠIn tern\nĠmet hod\nĠA ug\nĠP er\nĠA g\nĠpolic y\nĠS w\nĠex ec\nĠac cept\num e\nrib ut\nĠword s\nĠfin al\nĠchang es\nĠDem ocr\nĠfriend s\nĠres pect\nĠe p\nĠcomp an\niv il\nĠdam age\n** **\nog le\nviron ment\nĠne g\nent al\nĠa p\nĠtot al\niv al\n! \"\nl im\nĠneed s\nĠag re\nĠdevelop ment\nĠa ge\nip le\n2 1\nĠresult s\nĠA f\nS h\nĠg un\nĠOb ama\nro ll\nĠ @\nĠright s\nĠB rit\nĠrun ning\nĠwas n\nĠp ort\nĠr ate\nĠpret ty\nĠtarg et\nĠsa w\nĠc irc\nĠwor ks\nic ro\nal t\no ver\nww w\nTh at\nl ier\nĠevery one\nud e\nĠp ie\nidd le\nra el\nĠr ad\nĠbl ock\nĠw alk\nT o\nã ģ\nn es\nĠA ust\na ul\nro te\nĠS outh\ness ion\nop h\nĠshow s\nĠs ite\nĠj o\nĠr isk\ncl us\nl t\nĠin j\nid ing\nĠS pe\nĠch all\nir m\nĠ2 2\nitt ing\nst r\nĠh y\nL E\nke y\nĠbe gan\nat ur\nashing ton\nl am\nĠD av\nb it\nĠs ize\nĠP ar\n3 8\nourn al\nf ace\nĠdec ision\nĠl arg\nĠj ud\nre ct\nĠcontin ue\nĠO ct\nove red\nĠI nt\n==== ====\nĠp arent\nĠW ill\nĠeas y\nĠd rug\nang er\nĠs ense\nĠd i\nid ay\nĠener gy\nist ic\nĠass oci\nar ter\nob al\ne ks\nĠE l\nur ch\nĠg irl\no e\nit le\nĠ2 8\nĠC he\nĠrequ est\nĠso on\nĠh ost\nk y\nĠst ates\nom es\nĠm aterial\nle x\nĠmom ent\nĠan sw\non se\nĠes pecially\nĠn orm\nĠserv ices\np ite\nr an\nĠro le\n4 4\n) :\nĠc red\nC l\n____ ____\nĠm at\nĠl og\nĠCl inton\nO U\nĠoff ice\nĠ2 6\nĠch arg\nĠtr ack\nm a\nĠhe art\nĠb all\nĠperson al\nĠbuild ing\nn a\ns et\nb ody\nĠBl ack\nĠincre ase\nitt en\nĠneed ed\n3 6\n3 2\n= \"\nĠl ost\nĠbec ame\nĠgrou ps\nĠM us\nĠw rote\nĠP e\nĠpro p\nj oy\nà ©\nĠWh ite\nĠde ad\n. '\nĠhtt p\nĠwe bs\nO S\nĠins ide\nĠwr ong\nĠstat ement\nĠ ...\ny l\nĠfil m\nĠmus ic\nĠsh are\nific ation\nĠre lease\nĠfor ward\nĠst ay\nĠcomp ut\nit te\ns er\nĠorig inal\nĠc ard\nĠc and\nĠd iv\nat ural\nĠfav or\nO M\nĠc ases\nus es\nĠse ction\nĠle ave\ng ing\nov ed\nĠW ashington\n3 9\nĠG l\nĠrequ ired\nact ion\nap an\no or\nit er\nĠK ing\nĠcount ries\nĠG erman\nll ing\nĠ2 7\n3 4\nĠquest ions\nĠpr im\nĠc ell\nĠsh oot\nĠany one\nĠW est\nĠaff ect\nep end\nĠon line\nĠIs rael\nĠSept ember\nĠab ility\nĠcont ent\nis es\nĠre ve\nĠl aun\nĠind ic\nĠfor ce\nc ast\nĠso ld\nav ing\nf l\nĠso ft\nĠcompan ies\nce ed\nĠart icle\nĠa ud\nĠre v\nĠed uc\nĠplay ing\n0 5\nĠhe ld\nct or\nĠrele ased\nĠf ederal\n3 7\nĠad minist\nĠinter view\nĠinst all\nĠrece ived\nĠs ource\nu k\nP h\nĠser ious\nĠcre ated\nĠc ause\nĠim medi\nĠdef in\nu el\nĠDep artment\nct ions\nĠC our\nĠN ow\nz e\nit es\nit ution\nĠl ate\nĠspe ak\nn ers\nĠleg al\nar i\nĠC or\nĠwe eks\nĠmod el\nĠp red\nĠex act\nB C\nĠB y\nIN G\nos ing\nĠt akes\nĠreg ard\nĠopp ortun\nĠpr ice\nĠ19 8\nĠA pr\nf ully\nĠor d\nĠproble ms\nru ction\nh am\nĠC ount\nle ge\nĠlead ers\nE T\nle v\nĠde ep\nolog ical\nes e\nh aps\nĠS ome\nĠp ers\nĠcont ract\nĠrelations hip\ns p\nou d\nĠb ase\n4 8\nm it\nA d\nanc ial\nĠcons um\nĠpot ential\nĠl angu\nre m\net h\nĠrel ig\nress ed\n6 6\nĠl ink\nĠl ower\nay er\nĠJ une\nĠf em\nun t\ner c\nur d\nĠcont act\nĠ ill\nĠm other\nĠest ab\nh tt\nĠM arch\nĠB ro\nĠCh ina\nĠ2 9\nĠs qu\nĠprov ided\nĠa verage\nas ons\nĠ201 1\nĠex am\nl in\n5 5\nn ed\nĠper fect\nĠt ou\nal se\nu x\nĠbu y\nĠsh ot\nĠcol lect\nĠph ot\nĠplay ed\nĠsur pr\nĠofficial s\nĠsim ple\nav y\nĠindust ry\nĠhand s\ng round\nĠp ull\nĠr ound\nĠus er\nĠr ange\nu ary\nĠpriv ate\nop s\ne es\nĠw ays\nĠM ich\nĠve h\nĠex cept\nĠter ms\nim um\npp er\nI ON\nore s\nĠDr agon\nou l\nĠd en\nĠperform ance\nĠb ill\nc il\n4 7\nĠen vironment\nĠex c\nad d\nĠwor th\nĠp ict\nĠch ance\nĠ201 8\nb or\nĠspe ed\nict ion\nĠal leg\nĠJ apan\nat ory\nre et\nĠm atch\nĠI I\nĠst ru\nord er\nĠst e\nĠl iving\nĠst ruct\nin o\nĠse par\nher n\nĠresp onse\nĠen joy\nĠv ia\nA D\num ents\nace book\nĠmem ber\nib r\niz ing\nĠto ol\nĠM on\nĠWh ile\nh ood\nĠA ng\nĠD ef\nĠoff er\nT r\na ur\nĠturn ed\nĠJ uly\nd own\nan ced\nĠrec ently\nĠE ar\nĠc e\nĠSt ar\nĠC ong\nrough t\nĠbl ood\nĠhop e\nĠcom ment\nain t\nĠar ri\nil es\nĠpartic ip\nough t\nri ption\n0 8\n4 9\nĠg ave\nĠse lect\nĠkill ed\nsy ch\nĠgo es\ni j\nĠc oll\nĠimp act\nat ives\nĠS er\n0 9\nĠAug ust\nĠb oy\nd e\nĠD es\nĠf elt\nU S\nĠexpect ed\nĠim age\nĠM ark\ncc ording\no ice\nE C\nĠM ag\nen ed\nh old\nĠP ost\nĠpre vent\nN o\nĠinvol ved\nĠey es\nĠquick ly\nA t\nun k\nĠbeh av\nĠ ur\nĠl ed\nc ome\ne y\nĠcand id\nĠear lier\nĠfoc us\net y\nP ro\nled ge\nix ed\nill ed\nĠpop ular\nA P\nĠset t\nl ight\nĠvar ious\nin ks\nĠlevel s\nĠro ad\nell ig\nab les\nhe l\nitte e\nĠG ener\ny pe\nĠhe ard\nic les\nĠm is\nĠus ers\nĠS an\nĠimpro ve\nĠf ather\nĠse arch\nThe y\nv il\nĠprof ess\nĠkn ew\nĠl oss\nĠev ents\n6 5\nĠb illion\n0 7\n0 2\nĠNew s\nĠA M\nĠco ver\nw here\nens ion\nĠb ott\nĠare as\nen ces\nop e\nĠTw itter\na el\nĠget s\nĠGo ogle\nĠs n\ni ant\nĠv ote\nĠnear ly\nĠinclud ed\nĠrec ogn\nz z\nm m\nal ed\nĠhappen ed\n0 4\nĠh ot\nĠwho se\nĠc ivil\nĠsu ff\no es\nit iz\nĠSy ri\nĠresp ond\nĠh on\nĠfeat ures\nĠeconom ic\nĠApr il\nr im\nĠtechn ology\nĠo ption\nag ing\nĠpur ch\nR e\nĠl at\nch ie\nis l\nĠrec omm\nu f\nĠtr aining\nĠeffect s\nĠf ast\nĠ201 0\nĠocc ur\nĠwebs ite\nĠem ail\nĠs ens\ne ch\nĠo il\nĠinf lu\nĠcurrent ly\nĠS ch\nĠAd d\nĠgo al\nĠsc ient\nĠcon v\n1 00\nem y\nĠdec ided\nĠtra vel\nĠm ention\nL L\n0 3\nĠe lection\nĠph one\nĠlook s\nĠsit uation\nĠc y\nĠh or\nb ed\nĠCour t\na ily\nav es\nĠqu ality\nĠCom p\nw ise\nĠt able\nĠst aff\nĠW ind\net t\nĠtri ed\nide red\nĠadd ition\nĠb ox\nĠl ack\nar ily\nĠw ide\nĠm id\nĠbo ard\nys is\nĠant i\nh a\nĠd ig\nen ing\nĠd ro\nC on\n6 8\nĠsl ow\nb ased\nse qu\nĠp ath\nE x\nak er\nĠwork ed\nĠp en\nĠeng ine\nĠlook ed\nĠSu per\nĠS erv\nĠvict im\nU n\nĠproper ty\nĠint rodu\nĠexec ut\nĠP M\nL e\nĠcol or\nĠM ore\nĠ6 0\nĠnet work\nĠd ate\nc ul\nid ge\nĠext ra\n3 1\nĠs le\n6 7\nĠw ond\nĠreport s\nj ust\nĠAust ral\nĠcap ital\nĠen s\nĠcomm and\nĠallow ed\nĠpre p\nĠca pt\nh ib\nĠnum bers\nch an\nĠf air\nm p\nom s\nĠre ach\nW ith\nt ain\nĠbro ad\nĠcou ple\nec ause\nly ing\nĠF eb\nĠsc reen\nĠl ives\nĠpri or\nĠCong ress\nA r\nĠappro ach\nĠe mer\nar ies\nĠD is\ns erv\nĠN e\nĠbu ilt\nc ies\nĠre pe\nĠrul es\nfor ce\nĠP al\nĠfin ancial\nĠcons idered\nĠCh ar\nn ces\nĠI S\nĠb rought\nĠb i\ni ers\nĠS im\nO P\nĠproduct s\nĠvis it\nĠdoc ument\nĠcon duct\nĠcomplete ly\nin ing\nĠCal if\nib ly\nĠwr itten\nĠT V\nem ents\nĠd raw\nO ne\nĠpub lished\nĠsec ret\nr ain\nhe t\nĠF acebook\nond ay\nĠU p\nĠsex ual\nĠth ous\nĠP at\nĠ ess\nĠstand ard\nĠar m\ng es\nect ion\nĠf ell\nĠfore ign\nan i\nĠFr iday\nĠreg ular\nin ary\nĠincre ased\nĠus ually\nĠdem on\nĠd ark\nĠadd itional\nro l\nĠO f\nĠprodu ction\n! !\nund red\nĠintern ational\nid ents\nĠF ree\nrou p\nĠr ace\nĠm ach\nĠh uge\nA ll\nle ar\nove mber\nĠto wn\nĠatt ention\nĠO ff\ny ond\nĠThe n\nf ield\nĠter ror\nra z\nĠB o\nĠmeet ing\nĠP ark\nĠar rest\nĠf ear\nĠa w\nĠV al\nor ing\n' ,\nĠext reme\nar r\nĠwork ers\nA fter\nĠ3 1\nn et\nam ent\nĠdirect ly\nĠpop ulation\nub e\nĠOct ober\nĠI N\nĠJan uary\n5 9\nĠDav id\nĠc ross\nce mber\nĠF irst\nĠmess age\nir it\nĠn ation\nĠp oll\nis ions\nĠansw er\nn y\nis ode\nĠcar ry\nĠRuss ia\nĠhe ar\neng th\nro y\nĠn atural\nin ally\nĠdo g\nm itted\nĠtr ade\nĠsub st\nĠmult iple\nĠAf ric\nĠf ans\nĠs ort\nĠgl obal\nic ation\nĠW ed\nar a\nĠa chie\nĠlangu age\nve y\nĠt al\nĠnecess ary\nĠdet ails\nĠs en\nĠS und\nĠRe g\nĠR ec\n0 6\nĠs il\nress ive\nĠmed ical\nun ch\norn ia\nĠu nd\nf ort\noc ks\nĠM onday\nues day\nc raft\n7 7\nur t\nĠ ver\nĠH ill\nĠrece ive\nĠmor ning\nes tern\nĠb ank\nĠs at\nir th\nĠH igh\nĠdev ice\nĠTH E\nĠCent er\nĠsaf e\nĠp le\nĠCanad a\nĠsystem s\nĠass ist\nĠsur v\nĠb attle\nĠS oc\nvert is\nS he\nĠp aper\nĠgrow th\nĠc ast\nS c\nĠpl ans\nll ed\nĠpart s\nĠw all\nĠmove ment\nĠpract ice\nim ately\nĠdis play\nĠsomet imes\nom p\nĠP aul\nĠY es\nk ing\n5 8\no ly\nĠs on\nĠav oid\nok es\nĠJ ew\nĠto wards\nas c\nĠ //\nĠK ore\nĠtalk ing\nĠcor rect\nĠsp ent\nic ks\ni able\ne ared\nĠter m\nĠwant s\nom ing\nĠ ut\nĠdou b\nĠfor ces\nĠp lease\n6 9\nĠN ovember\nat form\nond on\nĠon es\nĠimmedi ately\nĠRuss ian\nĠM et\nĠde g\nĠparent s\nC H\nĠAmeric ans\nal y\nĠM od\nĠsh own\nĠcond itions\nĠst uff\nĠre b\nĠY our\nĠinclud es\nn own\nĠS am\nĠexper ien\nm ission\nĠE ven\naugh t\nĠannoun ced\nĠRepublic an\nĠdeter min\nĠdescrib ed\nĠCount y\n( )\nĠdo or\nĠchang ed\nĠne igh\nĠH ere\nĠcle an\nĠp an\nĠDe cember\nĠEurope an\nir ing\nap ter\nĠcl ub\nĠT uesday\nĠp aid\nĠN et\nĠattack s\nĠcharact ers\nĠal one\nĠdirect or\nd om\nĠ3 5\nĠl oad\nĠr out\nĠCalif ornia\nĠfin ally\nĠr ac\nĠcont r\nĠexact ly\nres h\np ri\nĠIs lam\nĠn ature\nĠcare er\nĠlat est\nĠcon vers\nĠS l\np ose\nci ent\nĠIn c\niv ity\n8 8\nĠA tt\nĠM or\nnes day\nĠwe ight\nk en\nĠnot e\nĠteam s\nĠ \\\nair s\nĠG reen\nĠh undred\non ent\nĠstre ng\nĠcons ist\nic ated\nĠreg ul\nĠl ic\nast ic\nĠt en\nurs day\nellig ence\nous ly\nĠU K\nB I\nĠcost s\nĠind epend\nĠA P\nĠnorm al\nĠh om\nĠob vious\nĠs we\nĠst ar\nĠread y\nac her\nĠimp lement\ng est\nĠs ong\nĠG et\nĠL ab\nĠinterest ing\nus ing\nĠg iving\nĠSund ay\nĠet c\nĠm iddle\nĠrem ember\nr ight\nos ition\nut ions\nĠm ax\n4 6\nĠyour self\nĠdem and\nĠtreat ment\nĠd anger\nĠC ons\nĠgu y\nĠBrit ish\nĠphys ical\nĠrel ated\nĠrem ain\nĠcould n\nĠref er\nĠc itiz\nb ox\nEN T\nbo ard\nĠin n\nI G\ner o\nĠSt reet\nosp ital\nren ch\ncher s\nĠst ra\nO L\nag er\nĠA N\nĠeas ily\nI A\nen ge\nin y\nĠcl os\nock ed\nĠus es\nĠC oun\nI m\nu ild\n? ?\nm ore\nĠan g\nĠwr ite\nol ute\n5 7\nĠlead er\nĠread ing\n< /\nĠaut om\nest s\n4 3\nĠleg isl\nĠG old\nĠdesign ed\nĠS T\nĠLe g\na res\nĠbe aut\nĠT ex\nĠappear s\nĠstru gg\nĠR om\nĠ 00\nĠcho ice\nĠparticular ly\nĠF rom\nop er\nĠL ondon\nann ed\nĠallow s\nob ile\nĠdiffere nce\nâĢ ¢\nĠV iew\nĠWed nesday\nĠal though\nĠrel ative\nĠapplic ation\nate ver\nĠare n\nĠmy self\nĠim ag\nĠdis e\nĠsoc iety\nĠfre qu\nĠEng lish\nĠpo or\nĠD ay\nĠwrit ing\nĠse ven\nĠstart ing\nĠb ud\nĠpr int\nĠTr ans\nuf act\nĠSt ud\nn ew\nĠcr im\nĠg ives\nĠco ol\na e\ni ance\nĠGener al\nĠthink ing\nĠsa ve\nĠlim ited\nĠPart y\nĠmean ing\np en\now ers\nĠJ ack\nE M\nĠn ice\nru pt\nĠg as\nĠe ight\nĠfe et\nĠeff ort\nĠ ign\nic it\nB l\nco in\nĠop in\nĠbr ain\nWh ile\nhe st\nĠTh ursday\nĠwould n\naugh ter\nĠtou ch\nle ments\nĠstud ies\nĠcent er\nc ont\nor ge\nĠcomput er\nĠinvestig ation\nP l\nor ks\nĠ200 8\nĠincre asing\nĠst ore\nĠcom ments\nĠb al\nm en\nĠdo ll\nĠl iber\nĠw ife\nĠlaw s\natur day\nit ness\nĠmod ern\nĠS k\nĠadminist ration\nĠopportun ity\nĠs al\nĠpower ful\nM y\nĠclaim s\nĠEar th\nord s\nĠt itle\nĠes c\nn ame\nN ot\nom en\nĠbe yond\nĠc amer\nĠse ll\nit ute\near ch\nĠapp l\nim ent\n4 2\nĠAr t\nĠun f\nĠviol ence\nur g\nĠE ast\nĠcomp ared\nĠopt ions\nĠthrough out\nĠv s\nig r\n. [\nac hes\n7 8\nĠfil es\nF L\nE L\nar ian\nĠJ ames\nĠA ir\nan ch\nĠdet ail\nĠpie ce\nP S\nĠn amed\nĠeduc ation\nĠdri ve\nĠitem s\nĠstud ent\nic ed\n: :\nic o\nĠth row\nĠsc ene\nĠcomple x\nĠ200 9\nĠpre c\nĠB re\n7 9\nĠcon cept\nĠstat us\nam ing\nĠd ied\nĠknow ledge\nĠbegin ning\nO D\nru ary\nĠcertain ly\nĠgu ys\nĠsl ight\nin n\nound s\nĠf ine\nĠf at\nic ations\nĠper haps\nĠA nt\nĠinc ome\nĠhtt ps\nĠmajor ity\nport s\nst on\nĠgreat er\nĠfe ed\nent ially\nĠsaf ety\nĠun ique\nand om\nĠg one\nĠshow ed\nĠhist or\nĠcoun ter\ni us\nid a\nĠlead ing\ni pe\nĠs end\nĠDon ald\ner ve\nĠdef ense\nines e\nĠy es\nĠF ire\nĠMus lim\nra q\nĠcontin ued\nos h\nĠprov ides\nĠpr ison\nĠP re\nĠhapp y\nĠeconom y\nĠtr ust\nag s\nĠG ame\nĠweap ons\num an\nĠC le\nit ation\nĠanal ysis\nĠT imes\nĠsc ience\n- >\nĠfig ure\nĠdis app\nent y\nĠsoft ware\nĠu lt\nĠoffic ers\nN ew\nI s\nĠrem ains\nĠInd ia\nĠp sych\nri ef\nĠc at\nes c\nĠob serv\nĠst age\nĠD ark\nĠent er\nch ange\nĠpass ed\nĠdes pite\nĠO ut\nĠmov ie\nr s\nĠv oice\nm ine\nĠPl ay\nĠto ward\nĠT er\nĠreg ion\nĠval ues\nor ters\nĠm ount\nĠoffic er\nĠO ther\nb an\nĠh ous\nw ood\nro om\nI V\nĠS un\nse e\nĠO ver\nro g\n9 0\nĠl ay\nĠT ur\na wn\nĠpress ure\nĠS ub\nĠbook s\ned om\nĠS and\nA A\nag o\nĠre asons\nf ord\nĠactiv ity\nU T\nN ow\nĠSen ate\nce ll\nn ight\nĠcall s\nin ter\nĠlet ter\nĠR ob\nĠJ e\nĠcho ose\nĠL aw\nG et\nB e\nĠro b\nĠtyp es\nĠpl atform\nĠqu arter\nR A\nĠT ime\nĠmay be\nĠC r\n9 5\np re\nĠmov ing\nĠl if\nĠgo ld\nĠs om\nĠpat ients\nĠtr uth\nĠK e\nur ance\nant ly\nm ar\nĠchar ge\nĠG reat\nĠce le\n---------------- ----------------\nĠro ck\nro id\nan cy\nĠcred it\na ud\nB y\nĠE very\nĠmov ed\ning er\nrib ution\nĠn ames\nĠstra ight\nĠHe alth\nĠW ell\nĠfe ature\nĠr ule\nĠsc he\nin ated\nĠMich ael\nber g\n4 1\nil ed\nb and\nĠcl ick\nĠAng el\non ents\n Ń\nĠI raq\nĠS aturday\nĠa ware\np art\nĠpat tern\nO W\nĠL et\nĠgr ad\nign ed\nĠassoci ated\nĠst yle\nn o\ni ation\na ith\nil ies\nĠst ories\nur ation\nĠindividual s\nĠâĢ ¦\nm iss\nĠAss oci\nish ing\nab y\nĠsum mer\nĠB en\nĠ3 2\nĠar ch\nut y\nĠTex as\nh ol\nĠfull y\nĠm ill\nĠfollow ed\nĠB ill\nĠInd ian\nĠSec ret\nĠB el\nĠFeb ruary\nĠjob s\nĠseem ed\nĠGo vern\ni pped\nĠreal ity\nĠl ines\nĠp ark\nĠmeas ure\nĠO ur\nI M\nĠbro ther\nĠgrow ing\nĠb an\nĠest im\nĠc ry\nĠS chool\nĠme chan\nĠO F\nĠWind ows\nĠr ates\nĠO h\nĠpos itive\nĠcult ure\nist ics\nic a\nĠh ar\ny a\nite ly\ni pp\nĠm ap\nen cies\nĠWill iam\nI I\nak ers\n5 6\nĠM art\nĠR em\nĠal tern\nit ude\nĠco ach\nrow d\nD on\nĠk ids\nĠj ournal\nĠcor por\nĠf alse\nĠwe b\nĠsle ep\nĠcont ain\nĠst o\nĠb ed\niver se\nĠR ich\nĠCh inese\nĠp un\nĠme ant\nk nown\nĠnot ice\nĠfavor ite\na ven\nĠcond ition\nĠpur pose\n) )\nĠorgan ization\nĠchall eng\nĠman ufact\nĠsus p\nĠA c\nĠcrit ic\nun es\nuc lear\nĠm er\nvent ion\nĠ8 0\nĠm ist\nĠU s\nĠT or\nhtt p\nol f\nĠlarg er\nĠadv ant\nĠrese ar\nĠact ions\nm l\nĠke pt\nĠa im\n, '\nc ol\nĠbenef its\nif ying\nĠact ual\nĠIntern ational\nĠveh icle\nĠch ief\nĠeff orts\nĠLe ague\nĠM ost\nĠwa it\nĠad ult\nĠover all\nĠspe ech\nĠhigh ly\nĠfem ale\nĠer ror\nĠeffect ive\n5 4\nĠenc our\nw ell\nĠfail ed\nĠcons erv\nĠprogram s\nĠt rou\nĠa head\n5 00\nvertis ement\nI P\nĠF ound\np ir\nĠ %\nĠcr ime\nand er\nĠloc ation\nĠI ran\nĠbehav ior\naz ing\nĠr are\nĠem b\nĠca used\nĠsh ip\nĠact ive\nĠcont ribut\nĠg reen\nĠac qu\nĠref lect\nven ue\nĠf irm\nĠb irth\n] .\nĠclear ly\nĠem ot\nĠag ency\nri age\nĠmem ory\n9 8\nS A\nĠSe e\nac ing\nC C\nĠbig gest\nĠr ap\nĠbas ic\nĠb and\ne at\nĠsus pect\nĠM ac\nĠ9 0\nm ark\nist an\nĠsp read\nam s\nk i\nas y\nra v\nĠR ober\nĠdemon str\nr ated\nĠabs olute\nĠpl aces\nĠim pl\nibr ary\nĠc ards\nĠdest roy\nĠv irt\nve re\nĠapp eared\ny an\np oint\nĠbe g\nĠtem per\ns pe\nant ed\near s\nĠD irect\nĠl ength\nĠbl og\nam b\nĠint eg\nĠres ources\nac c\nif ul\nĠsp ot\nĠfor ced\nĠthous ands\nĠMin ister\nĠqu al\nĠF rench\nat ically\nĠgener ally\nĠdr ink\nĠth us\nI L\nod es\nĠappro pri\nĠRe ad\nĠwh om\nĠey e\nĠcol lege\nĠ4 5\nire ction\nĠens ure\nĠapp arent\nid ers\nĠrelig ious\nĠmin or\nol ic\nĠt ro\nĠWh y\nrib ute\nm et\nĠprim ary\nĠdevelop ed\nĠpe ace\nĠsk in\nst e\nav a\nĠbl ue\nĠfam ilies\nĠ ir\nĠapp ly\nĠin form\nĠSm ith\nC T\ni i\nĠlim it\nĠres ist\n........ ........\num n\nĠconf lic\nĠtw e\nud d\nĠT om\nĠl iter\nqu e\nb on\nĠha ir\nĠevent ually\nĠp us\nĠhelp ed\nĠag g\nor ney\nĠApp le\nĠf it\nĠS ur\nĠpre m\nĠs ales\nĠsecond s\nĠstreng th\nĠfeel ing\n¿ ½\nĠt our\nĠknow s\no om\nĠex erc\nĠsom ew\nï ¿½\n> >\nĠsp okes\nĠide as\nĠreg ist\nso ft\nĠD el\nĠP C\nĠpro pos\nĠlaun ch\nĠbott om\nT H\nĠP lease\nv est\nit z\nĠIn ter\nĠsc ript\nĠr at\nar ning\nĠ il\nĠJ er\nĠA re\nĠwh atever\nok en\nci ence\nĠmod e\nĠag ree\nĠs ources\nĠinit ial\nĠrest rict\nĠwond er\nus ion\n## ##\nĠS il\nvil le\nĠb urn\nt w\nas ion\nĠ £\nĠn or\nu ing\nĠre ached\nĠs un\nĠc ateg\nig ration\nĠc ook\nĠprom ot\nĠm ale\nĠcl imate\nĠf ix\nĠalleg ed\nU R\nall ed\nĠim ages\nC ont\not a\nĠschool s\ni os\nĠd rop\nĠst ream\nĠM o\nĠprevious ly\nal ing\nĠp et\nĠdou ble\nĠ( @\nann el\nĠdef ault\nt ies\nĠr ank\nĠD ec\nĠCoun cil\nĠweap on\nĠst ock\nĠanal y\nĠSt r\nĠpict ure\nĠPol ice\nf erence\nĠcent ury\nĠcitiz ens\nĠon to\nĠexp and\nĠhe ro\nĠS ol\nĠw ild\nĠupd ate\nĠcustom ers\nr ont\nd ef\nĠl ik\nĠcrim inal\nĠChrist ian\nS P\n7 6\nĠle aving\nĠother wise\nĠD ist\nĠbas is\n5 2\n5 3\nic ip\nĠB er\nĠrecomm end\nĠfl oor\nĠc rowd\nol es\nĠ7 0\nĠcent ral\nĠE v\nĠd ream\nĠdown load\nĠconf ir\nĠTh om\nĠwind ow\nĠhapp ens\nĠun it\nĠt end\nĠs pl\nĠbec omes\nĠfight ing\nĠpred ict\nĠP ress\nĠP ower\nĠhe avy\nak ed\nĠf an\nor ter\nate gy\nB A\niz es\nĠsp end\nH ere\nĠ200 7\nĠad op\nĠH am\nĠfoot ball\nĠP ort\nod ay\n5 1\namp ions\nĠtrans fer\nh t\nĠ3 8\nter m\nac ity\nĠb ur\n] ,\ntern al\nr ig\nb ut\nĠthere fore\nĠB ecause\nres p\nre y\nĠm ission\nS ome\nĠnot ed\nĠass um\nĠdise ase\nĠed it\nĠprog ress\nr d\nĠB rown\noc al\nĠadd ing\nĠra ised\nĠAn y\nĠt ick\nĠsee ing\nĠPe ople\nĠagre ement\nĠser ver\nĠw at\nĠdeb ate\nĠsupp osed\nil ing\nĠlarg est\nĠsuccess ful\nĠP ri\nĠDemocr atic\nĠj ump\nĠSyri a\nĠown ers\nĠoff ers\nĠshoot ing\nĠeff ic\nse y\nĠha ven\nver se\nte red\nĠL ight\nim al\nĠB ig\nĠdef end\nĠbe at\nĠrecord s\n% )\nĠsc en\nĠemploy ees\nĠdev ices\nhe m\nĠcom mer\nĠM ex\nĠbenef it\nĠPro f\nĠil leg\nĠsur face\nĠAl so\nĠh arm\ning ly\nw ide\nĠA lex\nĠsh ut\nĠC ur\nĠl ose\np m\nĠchall enge\nse mb\nĠst ation\nĠint elligence\nĠacc ur\nĠFl or\nĠrequ ires\nĠM al\nb um\nĠh ospital\nĠsp irit\nĠoff ered\nĠprodu ce\nĠComm un\nĠcreat ing\nĠcr is\ns pect\nĠend ed\nĠd aily\nĠvot ers\nland s\ni as\ni h\non a\nĠsm art\nĠOff ice\nĠL ord\nri al\nĠIntern et\nĠcirc um\nĠextreme ly\n' .\nĠopin ion\nĠM il\nĠg ain\nB S\nĠF in\ny p\nĠuse ful\nĠbud get\nĠcom fort\nis f\nĠback ground\nel ine\nĠep isode\nĠen emy\nĠtri al\nĠestab lish\nd ate\nĠC ap\nĠcontin ues\nĠshow ing\nĠUn ion\nw ith\nĠpost ed\nĠSy stem\nĠe at\nri an\nĠr ise\nĠGerman y\nil s\nĠsign ed\nĠv ill\nĠgr and\nm or\nĠEng land\nĠproject s\num ber\nĠconf erence\nz a\nĠrespons ible\nĠAr ab\nĠlearn ed\nâĢĶ âĢĶ\ni pping\nĠGe orge\nO C\nĠreturn ed\nĠAustral ia\nĠb rief\nQ u\nĠbr and\nill ing\nab led\nĠhig hest\nĠtr ain\nĠComm ission\nwh ile\nĠn om\ncept ion\nĠm ut\nĠBl ue\nĠinc ident\nv ant\n8 6\nĠI D\nĠn uclear\n7 4\nĠL ike\nĠR E\nĠM icro\nl i\nm ail\nĠcharg es\n8 9\nĠad just\nad o\nĠear th\nN A\nĠpr ices\nP A\nĠd raft\nĠrun s\nĠcandid ate\nens es\nĠmanag ement\nĠPh il\nĠM iss\nĠte ach\ng ram\nĠunderstand ing\na it\nic ago\nA dd\nĠE p\nsec ut\nĠsepar ate\nĠinst ance\nĠe th\nĠun less\n**** ****\nĠF ore\nin ate\nĠoper ations\nS p\nĠf aith\ng ar\nĠCh urch\nron ic\nĠconf ig\nos ure\nĠactiv ities\nĠtrad itional\nĠ3 6\nĠd irection\nĠmach ine\nĠsur round\nĠp ush\nun ction\nĠE U\nĠeas ier\nĠarg ument\nG B\nĠm icro\nĠsp ending\niz ations\nĠthe ory\nad ow\nĠcall ing\nĠL ast\nĠd er\nĠinflu ence\nĠcomm it\nĠph oto\nĠun c\nist ry\ng n\nast e\nack s\nĠdis p\nad y\nd o\nĠG ood\nĠ `\nĠw ish\nĠreve aled\nÂł Âł\nl ig\nĠen force\nĠComm ittee\nĠche m\nĠmil es\nĠinterest ed\nĠsol ution\nic y\nin ct\nĠ- >\nĠD et\nĠrem oved\nĠcomp ar\ne ah\nĠpl ant\nĠS ince\nĠachie ve\nĠadvant age\nĠslight ly\nb ing\nĠpl aced\nu nder\n201 5\nĠM ad\nĠt im\nos es\nĠc ru\nĠR ock\nĠmost ly\nĠneg ative\nĠset ting\nĠprodu ced\nĠm ur\nĠconnect ion\nĠM er\nĠdri ver\nĠexecut ive\nĠass ault\nĠb orn\nĠV er\nt ained\nĠstruct ure\nĠredu ce\nĠdec ades\nĠd ed\nu ke\nĠM any\nidd en\nĠle ague\nS e\nĠjo in\nĠdis co\nĠd ie\nc ks\nact ions\nĠass ess\nag n\nĠgo als\nour s\nI R\nĠsen ior\nill er\nm od\nip ment\noc ol\nu y\nĠQ ue\nĠpart ies\nir gin\nĠle arning\nit able\nĠstre et\nĠcamer a\nA pp\nĠsk ills\nb re\nc ious\nĠcele br\nĠFr anc\nĠexist ing\nĠwill ing\nl or\nĠ id\nĠSp ace\nĠcrit ical\nĠL a\nortun ately\nĠser ve\nĠc old\nĠspec ies\nT S\nĠanim als\nĠB ay\nĠold er\nĠU nder\nest ic\nĠT re\nĠte acher\nĠpre fer\nv is\nĠth read\nĠM att\nĠmanag er\nãĥ »\nĠprofess ional\nĠV ol\nĠnot es\nThe se\nul a\nĠf resh\nent ed\nu zz\ned y\nclus ion\nĠR el\nĠdoub t\nE O\nĠopen ed\nĠB it\nAd vertisement\nĠgu ess\nĠU N\nĠse qu\nĠexpl ain\nott en\nĠatt ract\nak s\nĠstr ing\nĠcont ext\noss ible\nĠRepublic ans\nĠsol id\nĠc ities\nĠask ing\nĠr andom\nu ps\nur ies\nar ant\ndd en\ng l\nĠFlor ida\nĠdep end\nĠSc ott\nĠ3 3\nĠi T\nic on\nĠmention ed\nĠ2 000\nĠclaim ed\nĠdefin itely\nul f\nĠc ore\nĠopen ing\nĠCon st\nwh ich\nĠT ra\nA G\n7 2\nĠbelie ved\nad a\nĠ4 8\nĠSec urity\nyr ight\nĠP et\nĠL ou\nĠhold ing\n======== ========\nĠ ice\nĠb row\nĠauthor ities\nh ost\nw ord\nĠsc ore\nĠD iv\nĠcell s\nĠtrans l\nĠneigh bor\nĠrem ove\nu ct\nĠdist rict\nĠA ccording\nĠwor se\nĠconcern s\nĠpresident ial\nĠpolic ies\nĠH all\n7 3\nĠh us\nA Y\nĠ200 6\nĠJ ud\nĠindepend ent\nĠJust ice\nili ar\npr int\nigh ter\nĠprotect ion\nz en\nĠsu dden\nh ouse\nĠJ es\nP R\nĠIn f\nĠb ul\nĠ _\nĠServ ice\nĠP R\nĠstr ategy\nff ect\nĠgirl s\nĠmiss ing\noy al\nĠTe am\nul ated\nĠd at\nĠpolit ics\nab or\nA ccording\nĠspe ll\nĠg raph\nort hern\nT C\nA b\nĠlab or\nis her\nĠk ick\nĠiT unes\nĠstep s\npos es\nĠsmall er\nE n\nber t\nĠro ll\nĠresear chers\nĠcl osed\nĠtrans port\nĠlaw y\n________ ________\nĠCh icago\nĠas pect\nĠn one\nĠmar riage\n9 6\nĠe lements\nĠF re\nĠS al\nĠd ram\nF C\nt op\ne qu\nĠhe aring\nĠsupport ed\nĠtest ing\nco hol\nĠmass ive\nĠst ick\nĠgu ard\nis co\nph one\nF rom\nHow ever\nĠb order\nĠcop y\nograph y\nl ist\n7 1\nĠown er\ncl ass\nru it\nr ate\nĠO nce\nĠdig ital\nĠt ask\nER S\nĠinc red\nt es\n+ +\nĠFr ance\nĠb reat\now l\nĠiss ued\nĠW estern\nĠdet ect\nĠpart ners\nĠsh ared\nĠC all\nĠcan cer\nac he\nrib e\nĠexpl ained\nĠhe at\n{ \"\nĠinvest ment\nĠB ook\nĠw ood\nĠtool s\nĠAl though\nĠbelie f\nĠcris is\nĠg e\nĠM P\nĠoper ation\nty pe\n~ ~\ng a\nĠcont ains\nant a\nĠexp ress\nĠG roup\nĠJ ournal\nk a\nĠam b\nĠUS A\nĠfind ing\nĠfund ing\nh ow\nĠestab lished\nide os\nĠdeg ree\nĠdanger ous\nang ing\nĠfre edom\npp ort\nout hern\nĠch urch\nĠc atch\nĠTw o\nĠpres ence\nĠGu ard\nU p\nĠauthor ity\nĠPro ject\nĠbut ton\nĠcon sequ\nĠval id\nĠwe ak\nĠstart s\nĠref erence\nĠM em\n\" )\nU N\nor age\nĠO pen\nĠcol lection\ny m\ng ency\nĠbeaut iful\nro s\nĠtell s\nĠwa iting\nn el\nĠprov iding\nĠDemocr ats\nĠd aughter\nĠm aster\nĠpur poses\nĠJapan ese\nĠequ al\nĠturn s\nĠdoc uments\nĠwatch ing\nR es\nĠr an\n201 4\nĠre ject\nĠKore a\nĠvictim s\nLe vel\nere nces\nĠw itness\nĠ3 4\nĠre form\ncom ing\nĠocc up\nĠc aught\nĠtra ffic\nad ing\nĠmod els\nar io\nĠserv ed\nĠb atter\nu ate\nĠSecret ary\nĠagre ed\nĠtr uly\nyn am\nĠR et\nĠun its\nĠRes earch\nh and\naz ine\nĠM ike\nĠvar iety\not al\nĠam azing\nĠconfir med\nĠentire ly\nĠpurch ase\nĠe lement\nĠc ash\nĠdeter mine\nD e\nĠc ars\nĠW all\nâ ĸ\nĠview s\nĠdrug s\nĠdep artment\nĠSt ep\nu it\nĠ3 9\nas ure\nĠCl ass\nĠc overed\nĠB ank\nĠme re\nu ana\nĠmult i\nĠm ix\nĠun like\nlev ision\nĠsto pped\nĠs em\nĠG al\nul es\nĠwe l\nĠJohn son\nl a\nĠsk ill\nĠbec oming\nri e\nĠappropri ate\nf e\nell ow\nĠPro t\nul ate\noc ation\nĠweek end\nod ies\nĠsit es\nĠanim al\nĠT im\nĠsc ale\nĠcharg ed\nĠinst ruct\nill a\nĠmethod s\nĠc ert\nĠjud ge\nĠH el\nĠdoll ars\nĠstand ing\nĠS qu\nĠdeb t\nl iam\nĠdri ving\nĠS um\nĠEd ition\nĠal bum\nand on\nI F\nĠU k\n6 3\nad er\nĠcommer cial\nes h\nĠGovern ment\nĠdisc overed\nĠout put\nĠHill ary\nĠCar ol\nĠ200 5\nĠab use\nanc ing\nĠsw itch\nĠann ual\nT w\nĠst ated\nag ement\nin ner\nĠdem ocr\nĠres idents\nĠallow ing\nĠfact ors\nod d\nĠf uck\nem ies\nĠoccur red\not i\nĠn orth\nĠP ublic\nĠinj ury\nĠins urance\nC L\noll y\nã Ģ\nĠrepe ated\nĠar ms\nang ed\nĠconst ruction\nĠf le\nP U\nic ians\nĠfor ms\nĠMc C\nant ic\nĠm ental\np ire\nĠequ ipment\nĠf ant\nĠdiscuss ion\nĠregard ing\nk in\nar p\nĠch air\nog ue\nĠpro ceed\nĠI d\nO ur\nĠmur der\nM an\nĠ4 9\nas p\nĠsupp ly\nĠin put\nĠwe alth\nliam ent\nĠpro ced\nor ial\nĠSt at\nĠN FL\nhen s\nĠInst itute\nĠput ting\nourn ament\net ic\nĠloc ated\nĠk id\ner ia\nr un\nĠpr inc\nĠ !\ngo ing\nĠB et\nĠcl ot\nĠtell ing\nĠprop osed\ni ot\nor ry\nĠfund s\ng ment\nĠL ife\nĠb aby\nĠB ack\nĠsp oke\nIm age\nĠear n\nĠA T\ng u\nĠex change\nĠL in\nov ing\nĠp air\nM ore\naz on\nĠarrest ed\nĠkill ing\nc an\nĠC ard\ny d\nĠident ified\nĠm obile\nĠthan ks\nony m\nĠF orm\nĠhundred s\nĠCh ris\nĠC at\nĠtre nd\nh at\nĠA v\nom an\nĠelect ric\nĠW il\nS E\nO f\nĠrest aur\not ed\nĠtr ig\nĠn ine\nĠb omb\nWh y\n ¯\nĠco verage\nĠapp eal\nĠRober t\nĠS up\nĠfin ished\nĠfl ow\nĠdel iver\nĠcal cul\nĠphot os\nĠph il\nĠpie ces\nĠapp re\nk es\nĠr ough\nD o\nĠpart ner\nĠconcern ed\nĠ3 7\nĠG en\nC ol\nct ors\nĠ= >\nst ate\nĠsuggest ed\nĠFor ce\nC E\nĠher self\nĠPl an\nw orks\no oth\nren cy\nĠcor ner\nĠhus band\nĠintern et\nĠA ut\nem s\nos en\nĠAt l\ng en\nĠbal ance\n6 2\nĠsound s\nte xt\nĠar r\nov es\nĠmill ions\nĠrad io\nĠsat isf\nĠD am\nM r\nG o\nS pe\nĠcomb at\nr ant\nĠG ree\nĠf uel\nĠdist ance\nĠtest s\nĠdec re\nĠE r\nĠman aged\nD S\nĠt it\nĠmeas ures\nĠL iber\nĠatt end\nas hed\nĠJ ose\nĠN ight\nd it\nĠN ov\nĠE nd\nout s\nĠgener ation\nĠadv oc\ny th\nĠconvers ation\nĠS ky\nact ive\nce l\nri er\nĠFr ank\nĠg ender\nĠcon cent\nĠcar ried\nand a\nĠV irgin\nĠarri ved\nic ide\nad ed\nĠfail ure\nĠmin imum\nle ts\nĠwor st\nĠkeep ing\nĠint ended\nĠilleg al\nĠsub sc\nĠdetermin ed\nĠtri p\nY es\nĠra ise\nĠ ~\nĠfeel s\nĠpack age\nĠJ o\nh i\n201 6\nre al\nĠf ra\nĠsy mb\nM e\nuck y\np ret\nĠK h\nĠEd it\nĠWe b\nem ic\nĠCol or\nĠjust ice\nI nt\nĠfar m\nck now\n\" >\nel ess\nĠredu ced\nĠ5 00\nx x\nĠR ad\nĠW ood\nĠcl in\nĠhy p\nil er\nur a\nk ins\n8 5\n6 1\nĠThe ir\nĠM ary\nĠs an\nĠno vel\nĠWh o\nĠcap acity\nĠimp ossible\nĠpl ays\nĠmin ister\nij uana\nic ate\nĠS et\nĠf ram\nĠ ing\nĠcommun ities\nĠF BI\nit a\nĠb on\nĠstr ateg\nĠinterest s\nl ock\ng ers\nm as\nĠAN D\nĠconflic t\nĠrequire ments\nĠs ac\nĠoper ating\nin i\nrel ated\nĠcomm itted\nĠrelative ly\nĠs outh\n¯ ¯\nĠaff ord\nĠident ity\nĠdec isions\nĠacc used\npl ace\nĠvict ory\no ch\ni at\nN ame\nC om\nt ion\ned s\nĠsee k\nĠt ight\nĠIm ages\nĠinit i\nĠhum ans\nĠfam iliar\nĠaud ience\nĠintern al\nvent ure\nĠs ides\nĠT O\nĠd im\nĠcon clud\nĠapp oint\nĠenforce ment\nĠJ im\nĠAssoci ation\nĠcircum st\nĠCanad ian\nĠjo ined\nĠdiffere nces\nĠL os\nĠprot est\nĠtw ice\nw in\nĠgl ass\nars h\nĠAr my\nĠexp ression\nĠdec ide\nĠplan ning\nan ia\nĠhand le\nĠMicro soft\nĠN or\nĠmax imum\nĠRe v\nĠse a\nĠev al\nĠhel ps\nre f\nĠb ound\nĠm outh\nĠstand ards\nĠcl im\nĠC amp\nĠF ox\ncl es\nĠar my\nĠTe chn\nack ing\nx y\nS S\nĠ4 2\nĠbu g\nĠUk rain\nĠM ax\nĠJ ones\nĠSh ow\nl o\nĠplan et\nĠ7 5\nĠwin ning\nĠf aster\nĠspe ct\nĠbro ken\nT R\nĠdef ined\nĠhealth y\nĠcompet ition\nhtt ps\nĠIs land\nĠF e\nĠannoun ce\nĠC up\nĠInst ead\nĠcl ient\nĠposs ibly\nse ction\nock et\nl ook\nĠfin ish\nĠcre w\nĠres erv\nĠed itor\nĠh ate\nĠs ale\nĠcontro vers\nĠp ages\nw ing\nĠnum er\nĠopp osition\nĠ200 4\nĠref uge\nĠfl ight\nĠap art\nĠL at\nA meric\nĠAfric a\nĠapplic ations\nĠPal est\nĠB ur\nĠg ar\nĠSoc ial\nĠup gr\nĠsh ape\nĠspe aking\nans ion\na o\nĠS n\nĠwor ry\nĠBrit ain\nP lease\nrou d\nĠh un\nĠintrodu ced\nĠd iet\nI nd\nĠSec ond\nĠfun ctions\nut s\nĠE ach\nĠJe ff\nĠst ress\nĠaccount s\nĠgu arant\nĠAn n\ned ia\nĠhon est\nĠt ree\nĠAfric an\nĠB ush\n} ,\nĠs ch\nĠOn ly\nĠf if\nig an\nĠexerc ise\nĠEx p\nĠscient ists\nĠlegisl ation\nĠW ork\nĠS pr\nà Ĥ\nĠH uman\nĠ è\nĠsur vey\nĠr ich\nri p\nĠmain tain\nĠfl o\nĠleaders hip\nst ream\nĠIslam ic\nĠ 01\nĠCol lege\nĠmag ic\nĠPr ime\nĠfig ures\n201 7\nind er\nx ual\nĠDe ad\nĠabsolute ly\nĠfour th\nĠpresent ed\nresp ond\nrib le\nĠal cohol\nat o\nĠD E\npor ary\nĠgr ab\nĠvar i\nĠqu ant\nĠPh oto\nĠpl us\nr ick\nar ks\nĠaltern ative\nĠp il\nĠappro x\nth at\nĠobject s\nĠR o\nĠAnd roid\nĠsignificant ly\nĠR oad\nk ay\nR ead\nav or\nĠa cknow\nĠH D\nĠS ing\nO r\nĠM ont\nĠun s\npro f\nĠneg oti\nĠAr ch\nik i\nĠte levision\nĠJew ish\nĠcomm ittee\nĠmot or\nĠappear ance\nĠs itting\nĠstri ke\nĠD own\ncom p\nĠH ist\nĠf old\nac ement\nĠLou is\nĠbel ong\nĠâĢ ¢\nĠm ort\nĠprep ared\nĠ6 4\nĠM aster\nĠind eed\nĠD en\nĠre nt\nT A\nour ney\nar c\nS u\n9 7\nĠadv ice\nĠchang ing\nĠlist ed\nĠlaun ched\nis ation\nĠP eter\nis hes\nĠl ived\nĠM el\nĠSup reme\nĠF ederal\nĠ) ;\nruct ure\nĠset s\nĠphil os\nu ous\nĠ ł\nĠappl ied\nĠN OT\nĠhous ing\nĠM ount\nĠo dd\nĠsu st\nD A\nffic ient\nĠ ?\nol ved\nĠp owers\nĠth r\nĠrem aining\nĠW ater\nL C\nĠca uses\nãģ ®\nĠman ner\nad s\nĠsuggest s\nĠend s\nstand ing\nf ig\nĠD un\nid th\nĠg ay\nĠter min\nĠAngel es\nM S\nĠscient ific\nĠco al\nap ers\nb ar\nĠThom as\nĠsy m\nĠR un\nth is\nP C\nigr ants\nĠmin ute\nĠDist rict\ncell ent\nĠle aves\nĠcomple ted\nam in\nĠfoc used\nĠmon itor\nĠveh icles\nM A\nĠM ass\nĠGr and\nĠaffect ed\nitution al\nĠconst ruct\nĠfollow s\nĠt on\nre ens\nĠh omes\nĠE xt\nĠLe vel\nr ast\nĠI r\nĠel im\nĠlarge ly\nĠJ oe\nĠvot es\nall s\nĠbusiness es\nĠFound ation\nĠCent ral\nĠy ards\nĠmaterial s\nul ner\nĠgu ide\nĠclos er\num s\nĠsp orts\ned er\nJ ust\nĠtax es\n8 4\nĠO ld\nĠdec ade\nol a\nĠv ir\nĠdro pped\nĠdel ay\nit ect\nĠsec ure\nste in\nle vel\nĠtre ated\nĠfil ed\nain e\nĠv an\nĠm ir\nĠcol umn\nict ed\ne per\nĠro t\nĠcons ult\nĠent ry\nĠmar ijuana\nĠD ou\nĠapparent ly\nok ing\nclus ive\nĠincre ases\nan o\nĠspecific ally\nĠte le\nens ions\nĠrelig ion\nab ilities\nĠfr ame\nĠN ote\nĠLe e\nĠhelp ing\nĠed ge\nost on\nĠorgan izations\nà ĥ\nĠB oth\nhip s\nĠbig ger\nĠbo ost\nĠSt and\nĠro w\nul s\nab ase\nĠr id\nL et\nare n\nra ve\nĠst ret\nP D\nĠv ision\nĠwe aring\nĠappre ci\nĠa ward\nĠU se\nĠfact or\nw ar\nul ations\n) (\nĠg od\nĠter rit\nĠpar am\nast s\n8 7\nĠen emies\nĠG ames\nF F\nĠacc ident\nW ell\nĠMart in\nT ER\nĠat h\nĠHe ll\nĠfor g\nĠve ter\nĠMed ic\nf ree\nĠst ars\nĠexp ensive\nĠac ad\nra wn\nĠW he\nĠl ock\nĠform at\nĠsold iers\ns m\nĠag ent\nĠrespons ibility\nor a\nĠS cience\nĠrap id\nĠt ough\nĠJes us\nĠbelie ves\nM L\nĠwe ar\nle te\nÃĥ ÃĤ\nĠD ri\nĠcomm ission\nĠB ob\nO h\nap ed\nĠwar m\nÃĥÃĤ ÃĥÃĤ\nĠ200 3\nort ion\nĠhas n\nust er\nĠun ivers\nĠI ll\nĠk ing\nolog ies\n9 4\nĠT em\nĠM os\nĠpat ient\nĠMex ico\nce an\nĠDe ath\nĠSand ers\ny ou\nĠC ast\nĠComp any\npt y\nĠhappen ing\nF P\nĠB attle\nĠb ought\nA m\nM od\nU s\nut ers\nĠC re\nĠTh ose\nĠ4 4\nis er\nĠs oul\nĠT op\nĠHar ry\nĠA w\nĠse at\nff ee\nĠrev olution\nĠ( \"\nĠD uring\net te\nĠr 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ixed\nĠinc or\nos ite\nĠL og\nick en\n] :\nĠsurpr ise\nh ab\nĠc raft\nol t\nĠJ ul\nĠd ial\nĠrele vant\nĠent ered\nĠlead s\nĠA D\nĠCle an\nĠpict ures\ness or\nĠal t\nĠpay ing\nP er\nĠMark et\nĠupd ates\nam ily\nĠT ype\nĠH ome\nĠ5 5\nsemb ly\nrom e\n8 3\nĠgreat est\nĠhe ight\nĠhe av\nain ts\nĠlist en\nas er\nĠS H\nĠcap able\nac le\nĠpers pect\nin ating\nĠoff ering\nry pt\nĠDe velop\nab in\nr c\nĠbr ight\nal ty\nar row\nĠsupp l\nind ing\nack ed\ngy pt\nĠAn other\np g\nĠVirgin ia\nĠL u\nĠpl anned\nĠp it\nĠswe et\nT ype\nĠD i\nĠtyp ically\nĠFranc isco\nĠpro spect\nĠD an\nĠte en\nre es\nĠsc hed\nĠh ol\nĠsc r\nĠlot s\nl ife\nĠnews p\nĠfor get\nĠN one\nĠM iddle\nĠR yan\ned d\nĠse vere\nĠsu it\nll er\n9 3\nĠcor respond\nĠexpl os\nu ations\nĠfl ag\ng ame\nr id\nĠpr in\nĠD ata\nĠde ploy\nĠEn ter\nsu it\ngh an\nĠM en\nĠthough ts\nĠmat ters\nĠad apt\nĠA ri\nĠf ill\nĠfor th\nĠs am\nĠ4 1\nĠpay ment\nĠH or\nĠsp ring\ndu c\nĠl osing\nĠbring ing\nF O\nal a\nĠdist ribution\nhe red\nb our\nĠIsrael i\nom 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ol\nĠso le\nĠpot entially\nost er\nĠorig inally\nm un\n3 00\naz e\ness ions\nĠde ck\nĠst ood\nĠyou th\nĠB ern\nR ep\nĠT est\nĠbas ically\not ic\nĠinvol ve\nol it\nly n\nS ee\nĠair craft\nĠconf irm\nE W\nĠmess ages\nĠRich ard\nĠk it\nĠpro hib\nĠv ulner\nis ters\nĠexist ence\nĠturn ing\nĠS P\nĠdes ire\nĠfl at\nĠm ent\nse ason\nang es\nĠneighbor hood\nĠL ake\nAT ION\nĠpoint ed\nb ur\nĠinn ov\nuc ks\nU L\nĠprofess or\nĠexp ressed\nA B\nic ious\nĠ200 2\nĠDe v\nĠs ession\nĠb are\ns en\nĠdis s\nĠC ath\nĠP ass\nĠP oint\nĠdo ctor\nor row\nail ed\nĠR ub\nĠD C\nĠChar l\np erson\nĠwrit er\nigh ters\nure au\nĠob lig\nĠrecord ed\nĠbro ke\nĠord ers\nil ty\nĠmot ion\nin ity\nl aw\nad ium\nĠimm igration\nĠcontr ast\nĠb att\nĠex cellent\nĠtechn ical\nam i\nĠt un\nĠcl oud\nĠY ear\nge on\nĠcre ation\nĠstr ange\nĠa uth\nĠfor t\nb orn\nĠext ent\nĠT oday\nĠCl ub\nĠr ain\nĠs ample\nĠaccept ed\nĠt act\nĠf ired\nĠS on\nĠstand s\nĠb oot\nĠ4 7\nĠstat ements\nĠvers ions\nĠse lling\nound ed\nĠ199 0\nĠwere n\nĠW 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ples\nĠfact s\n9 1\not es\ner g\nThe n\nĠacc ompl\nN ote\nĠre venue\nĠpass ing\nĠm al\ne en\nĠY et\nĠg ather\nter day\new ork\nĠA uthor\nP e\nĠopt im\nĠr ub\nĠè £ı\nĠun known\nst one\nĠun ion\nol ve\nĠopportun ities\nĠbrow ser\nĠW al\nĠC ost\nĠreport ing\nst s\np et\nĠs and\nĠsudden ly\nĠsurpr ising\nĠV R\nĠsomew hat\nĠB as\nult ure\niz z\nĠC D\nĠchalleng es\nĠsett ings\nĠexperien ces\nĠF ull\nĠcan n\nĠrece iving\nES T\nĠj oint\nĠcult ural\nĠa st\n8 2\nas tern\nce ived\nĠC ru\nĠb ull\np ired\nam m\nĠfac ing\np ower\nĠb oss\nĠH ol\nĠinst r\nĠincreasing ly\nĠsh ift\nĠstre ets\nĠWilliam s\nab b\nĠl ie\nĠl augh\nĠC a\nP L\nĠadult s\nĠcustom er\nĠob tained\nĠsupport ing\nht ml\nf ire\nĠdetail ed\nĠpick ed\nĠR ight\nld er\nE E\nst ood\nĠK im\nĠw ire\nĠs ight\nĠdevelop ers\nĠpers ons\nĠs ad\nĠc up\nĠwar ning\nĠboy s\nl ong\nĠb ird\nf o\nĠw al\nĠobserv ed\nĠz one\niven ess\nĠch annel\nc ript\nĠref used\nĠAg ain\nĠsu c\nĠspokes man\nĠRe f\nr ite\nou ston\nãĥ ³\nĠS her\nĠact s\nĠN ame\nĠstrugg 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es\nĠdri vers\nog en\nĠN Y\nĠnecess arily\nĠregul ations\near ing\ns l\nĠperspect ive\nc are\nic ial\nH is\nĠesc ape\nĠsurpr ised\nĠV an\nur rent\nĠv ac\n8 1\nĠTh us\nĠem phas\nĠCh ampions\nĠI ce\nĠn arr\nĠhead s\nĠca using\nb el\nf ortunately\nĠM a\nĠtarg ets\nci pl\nĠafter noon\nĠadd s\nĠMay be\nĠF our\ness ed\nple te\nĠus ual\nch o\ning u\nĠwith d\nĠE nergy\nĠE conom\nO O\nĠart icles\nĠinj ured\nĠman age\nĠexpl ains\nĠdi agn\nR ec\nat ures\nĠlink ed\nĠdiscuss ed\nĠexpl o\nĠocc asion\nath an\nĠopp osite\nĠfac es\nĠden ied\nĠK night\nĠn ut\nĠapprox imately\nĠdisapp oint\nonym ous\nĠB est\nĠL o\nĠH y\nĠA ff\nĠvot ing\nan while\nĠII I\nĠinstit utions\nag ram\nĠD aily\nĠdr ag\nĠnear by\nĠgu ilty\nĠcon ver\nP re\ns hip\nĠre ward\nĠphilos oph\nĠS S\nu gh\nĠapp s\nf riend\nĠu pper\nĠad vert\nĠs now\nĠfr ust\nĠour selves\nF r\nĠD ie\namp ion\nĠdis miss\nĠc ere\nĠsign al\nf rom\nĠ ).\nĠ5 2\nĠcr imes\nit ors\nest ival\nuse um\nĠcoun cil\nĠS aud\nM ay\nĠG un\nic ian\net her\nĠsu fficient\nĠH en\nso le\nĠhistor ical\nĠF ar\nĠT urn\nĠp in\nĠsuc ceed\nm at\nly mp\nĠtrad ition\nĠO k\nĠc ro\nĠdesc ription\nal le\nĠsk y\nT e\nĠwide ly\nĠw ave\nĠdefin ition\nĠJew s\nĠcy cle\nĠref ere\nĠbr ings\nus al\nĠal ive\nĠfrequ ently\nĠint ention\nĠCont rol\nl v\ny stem\nĠpriv acy\ng ent\nren ce\nĠQu est\nĠChrist mas\nĠr ail\nĠco oper\nĠtest ed\nĠC apt\nas ks\nĠcomfort able\nĠdel ivered\nsc ape\nĠdep th\nĠG OP\nĠwrit es\nĠass ets\nĠsa v\nim ents\nĠtrans ition\nĠart ist\nĠL ook\nĠl ob\nĠcomp onents\nar ity\nĠwalk ed\nĠro ot\nĠparticip ants\nĠnot iced\nĠres c\nĠn av\nĠAd minist\nd a\nut ral\npl ate\nĠimport ance\nĠass ert\nious ly\nc ription\nĠinj uries\nĠChe ck\nĠregist ered\nĠint ent\nĠmiss ed\nograph ic\nĠsent ence\noun ter\nĠassist ance\nev in\nĠdat abase\nĠbuild ings\nĠclass ic\nĠth inks\nĠOh io\nP r\nug g\nĠfe e\np an\nĠeffect ively\nĠfac ility\nĠbe ar\nĠch apter\nĠdog s\nĠCol umb\nĠl atter\nit ial\nĠad mitted\nT V\nĠGe org\nĠpost s\n\\ \\\nĠlawy er\nĠequ ival\nĠm and\nĠcontro lled\nĠW alk\nĠAnd rew\nĠmen u\nam ental\nĠprotect ed\nv a\nĠadminist r\nor al\nĠre in\nĠS ar\nĠamount s\nĠn ative\nĠM oon\nĠrep resents\nĠab andon\nĠcarry ing\nĠt ank\nm ary\nĠdecl ared\nT ube\nĠh at\nĠpun ish\nel lect\nm es\nĠun iverse\nĠR od\nph y\nĠinf rastructure\nĠ5 1\nĠopp osed\now nt\nc a\nĠM ake\nĠhard ware\nĠco ffee\nR el\nb al\nw orld\nĠS af\nĠSe a\nin als\nĠown ed\nĠh all\ners ion\nĠdescrib e\nĠP ot\nĠport ion\nĠat mosp\nĠgovern ments\nĠdep ending\nĠoff ense\nĠtr ick\naw a\nĠL ine\nĠV is\nĠH ard\nĠOr ig\nĠCl ick\nĠdes k\nĠVal ley\nĠS ov\nĠmov ies\nĠrem ark\nĠm ail\nĠcons cious\nĠrul ing\nĠR ights\nĠmed ic\nhe nt\nĠW omen\n> <\nĠrepl aced\nĠP rem\nĠTh anks\nĠre new\nĠB all\nif orm\nĠsh ots\nC omm\nĠar med\nĠconst ant\nĠt aste\nĠreal ized\nĠbu ff\nĠm o\nĠeffic ient\nM ost\nor ation\nif ies\nĠcommun ication\nĠfl ood\nĠconsequ ences\nĠany way\nig g\nĠG M\nĠTh ank\nĠ iron\nĠev olution\nĠC op\ntw itter\nĠ9 5\nĠrelationship s\nad el\nĠYou ng\nĠpropos al\nay ers\nuild ing\nĠH ot\nOR E\nc os\nĠcoll abor\nP G\nax y\nĠknow ing\nĠsupport s\now ed\nĠcontrol s\nĠmere ly\num er\nĠath let\nĠf ashion\np ath\nĠg ift\nĠer a\nAN D\nĠkind s\nĠKore an\nĠleg it\nul ous\nĠess entially\nĠthe rap\nn ic\nĠsuff ered\nĠh ur\nĠprom ise\nĠex cess\nĠover w\nĠpr ime\nĠH ouston\ner ry\nĠM s\nR S\n201 2\nĠst ores\nĠO lymp\nĠj ourney\nAl though\nS ub\nĠE duc\nĠCh apter\nĠrequest s\nĠconsum ers\nĠt iny\nĠis ol\nĠF air\nb a\nĠY OU\nĠcr ash\nce ler\nĠemot ional\nĠgood s\nĠelect ed\nĠmod er\nĠLin ux\nĠbl ocks\nĠis land\nĠSoc iety\nĠelect ions\nĠbroad cast\nĠche ap\nĠn ations\nĠse asons\n4 00\nĠwas te\nĠS at\nĠfield s\nem ploy\nĠprof ile\nĠauth ors\nAL L\nĠG ra\nw est\nĠT y\nĠdeath s\nĠv acc\nĠfor med\nĠd u\nĠon going\nĠMuslim s\nel f\nig ure\nĠass ume\nĠUkrain e\nw ater\nĠco ast\nĠvot ed\ng or\nĠA S\nĠMich igan\naz a\nĠAr m\ni ro\nĠf lex\nas ters\n' '\nĠwel come\nar l\nĠloc ations\nig ation\nĠF il\nĠbu ying\nĠarch itect\nĠhard er\nĠC ub\nĠinter face\nĠrestaur ant\nĠdisco ver\nĠex ceed\nĠfav our\nger y\nĠd uty\nĠp itch\nad or\nĠM ach\nb oy\nĠrespond ed\nĠext ended\nher s\nM any\nra id\nif er\nĠIn s\nS er\nĠmed ium\ns he\nĠS ports\nĠmag azine\nut ation\nĠlim its\nĠG all\nĠex ternal\nraz il\nĠyoung er\nt le\nĠrem ind\nĠC ON\nĠimmedi ate\nĠh idden\nĠvol unte\nĠsim pl\nod cast\nĠph ase\nd r\nĠpl ot\nĠexp osure\nR I\nog rap\nv in\nan ish\nĠAc ad\nĠEng ine\nĠexp ansion\nĠP ay\nY our\nĠpus hed\nĠE ll\nĠHe ad\nĠmarket ing\nĠA C\nk et\nĠh its\nĠg ro\nĠA ge\nĠSc ot\n] [\nĠst im\nĠi Phone\nĪ Ĵ\nĠn arrow\nĠGet ty\nĠTur key\nĠperfect ly\nĠen able\nut ch\nĠprec ise\nĠreg ime\nĠsh if\nĠcomp ens\ng un\nd iv\nĠch osen\nĠK en\nAn y\nĠtre es\nĠrecomm ended\nĠR en\nu able\nĠH T\nF ollow\nE G\nĠH and\nĠK enn\nĠarg uments\nĠex ists\nĠb ike\nĠCons erv\nĠbre aking\nĠG ar\nĠc razy\nĠvirt ual\nay lor\nix el\nĠ19 80\nĠper mission\nĠSer ies\nĠconsum er\nĠclose ly\nc alled\nĠ5 4\nĠhop es\nĠar ray\nĠW in\nĠLab our\nĠsp ons\nĠI re\nĠp ow\nĠread ers\nĠemploy ment\nĠcreat ure\nĠresult ing\nĠaccur ate\nĠmom ents\nĠarg ued\nĠp ed\nD uring\nĠ5 3\nĠT al\nĠs ought\nĠsuff ering\nĠ icon\nle e\nĠ( $\nal ian\n °\nĠp ra\nĠbon us\n( \"\nk o\nĠact ing\nD E\nf all\nĠcompar ison\nĠsm ooth\nĠN AS\nu pp\nĠJose ph\nep ing\nĠT ake\nĠM id\nĠs ending\nf ast\nĠF all\nĠdeal ing\nus er\nĠOr gan\nC o\nĠatt ached\nĠse es\n% .\nĠtyp ical\nAR T\nĠfind s\nĠAs ia\num in\nĠC ore\nĠE nt\nin ent\nu ce\nĠBl ood\nĠN ever\nĠem ails\nĠhigh light\nĠconf ront\nat us\nut ed\nĠun us\nĠtop ic\nĠAd am\nĠb le\nat i\nĠunder stood\nS et\nst ruct\nT P\nĠm ob\na a\nĠSt art\npect ed\nse ll\nĠded icated\nĠC A\nu an\nĠsong s\nesc ription\nĠte ch\nĠr ape\nĠas ide\nĠgr ant\nĠ5 6\ns ub\nĠarg ue\nĠcont aining\nĠsche dule\nĠliber al\nĠpublic ly\nĠheav ily\nĠU t\nin er\nĠS ection\nĠC are\nwe et\nl s\nD is\nâĶ Ģ\nĠF ollow\nB ack\nĠI T\nĠb es\nj i\nĠH it\nest ed\nĠevery body\nĠSw ed\nĠfem in\nĠfac ilities\nĠcon ven\nC omp\nĠO S\nc ore\nĠan x\nĠdiv ision\nĠC am\nĠSt an\nm ates\nĠexpl ore\npl om\nĠsh ares\npl oad\nan es\nĠide al\net ers\nĠB ase\nĠpl astic\nĠdist inct\nĠNet work\nĠSe attle\nĠtrad ing\nens us\nint end\nĠex hib\nĠinit ially\nĠF ood\nĠthous and\nĠBus iness\nact er\nĠpar agraph\nĠrough ly\nĠw ww\nĠcreat ive\nĠCon f\nĠconsum ption\nĠfil ms\nag an\nĠob tain\nĠt all\nĠt or\nĠacknow led\nĠg rown\nal o\nK E\nĠ4 00\nend ers\nt aining\nU G\nĠsu icide\nĠwat ched\nĠL ist\nal i\nre hens\nĠsurround ing\nĠp ip\nĠf lying\nĠJ ava\nord an\nĠserv ing\nin ations\np ost\nĠsh o\nA v\nĠj ail\nz y\nĠ199 9\nĠ< /\nĠliter ally\nĠS ir\nĠexp osed\nĠl ies\nst ar\nĠb at\nĠear ned\nĠD ig\nĠspec ified\nĠSe ason\nĠdeg rees\nDon ald\nĠcent re\nĠsh aring\nĠwin ter\nĠC O\nC he\nĠ Î\nM P\nĠun w\nĠfew er\nĠM ir\nĠsomew here\nĠK ey\nĠattack ed\nĠK ir\nĠdom ain\nĠstrong er\nĠ9 9\nĠpen alty\nI d\nSc ript\nĠdecl ined\nĠne ck\nĠfra ud\nĠcur rency\nĠr ising\nR C\nâĢ¦ âĢ¦\nH z\nĠt ab\nĠtal ent\nn am\nĠN BA\nĠvill age\nĠleg s\nĠN ext\nE d\nĠac id\nĠhy d\n8 00\nĠinvol ving\nĠIm age\nĠBe fore\nF l\nĠyes terday\nS ource\nĠterror ist\nĠsu p\nĠsy nt\nĠSaud i\nĠw est\nĠr u\nb urg\nĠvis ible\nĠstru ck\nr ison\nĠaw esome\nĠd rawn\nĠansw ers\nĠG irl\nĠR am\nĠthreat s\nĠdef eat\nos it\nĠv ent\natur ally\nAmeric an\nend a\nĠH oly\nĠr um\n% ,\nc ase\nĠHist ory\nĠYou Tube\nĠsit uations\nĠD NA\nS te\nĠsa ved\nIt em\nĠrec ip\nolog ist\nĠfac ed\nĠel ig\nO nce\nĠL i\nu h\nĠmist ake\nĠDiv ision\nĠB ell\nĠsympt oms\n ®\nĠdom in\nĠfall ing\nĠend ing\nas hes\nĠmat ches\nĠOn line\nĠexplan ation\nD ef\nred it\nĠany more\nĠT otal\nĠF OR\nus hed\nĠlet ters\nĠris ks\nĠO K\nĠreported ly\n: \\\nĠpl ate\nĠsubject s\nĠattempt ed\nif ier\nian a\nĠunlike ly\nĠTh ough\num a\nĠIn vest\nĠPr in\nic an\nĠD ar\nĠColor ado\nau g\nĠve get\na os\nri a\nĠshe l\nĠmark ed\nĠ( )\nĠsp r\np o\nĠL ink\nĠdef e\nĠJ r\nĠthem e\nĠpass ion\nĠP en\nĠinf o\niz er\nĠsh it\nĠC ivil\nap se\nc re\nĠpo ly\nĠcomp onent\nĠChar les\nĠIre land\nĠPro v\nĠdo ctors\nĠgr anted\nĠpain t\nĠhon or\nĠsm oke\nĠpay ments\nĠprim arily\nĠKing dom\nr ich\nate ll\nĠde als\nĠsched uled\nĠfund amental\nĠprote in\nĠnewsp aper\nĠcl ients\nyth on\nĠD ate\nh us\nĠfeed back\nĠstret ch\nĠc ock\nĠhot el\nĠQue en\nĠsu gar\nĠj u\nĠmil k\nĠappro val\nĠL ive\nĠequival ent\nef ully\nĠins ert\nz ona\nĠext ension\nd ri\nJ ohn\nĠacc omp\nS m\nĠF und\nĠconst antly\nĠ` `\nĠgener ated\nĠA ction\nĠP sych\nĠT ri\nĠrecogn ize\nĠv ary\nph a\nĠR a\nd f\net ch\nĠSov iet\nTw o\nĠpattern s\nĠprof ession\nan ing\nT ime\nĠL im\nĠcol ors\nĠA z\nĠT R\nĠinf ect\nĠphen omen\nĠshe ll\nAl so\nĠput s\nĠdel ivery\nĠbro wn\nĠprocess ing\nĠlight s\ness age\nĠBro ok\nĠA ud\nl ation\nĠindust rial\nL ike\nĠB razil\nrou s\nES S\nĠL uc\nĠsome how\nĠ8 5\nĠpro port\nĠpolit icians\nĠindic ate\nĠh ole\nĠtechn iques\nĠcompet itive\nĠph r\nĠv o\nist ent\nĠD ream\nĠcamp us\nĠaspect s\nĠhelp ful\nĠsh ield\nor se\nĠtrig ger\nm al\nĠ5 8\nĠt ort\nĠperson ally\nĠt ag\nĠkeep s\nĠV ideo\nĠben ch\nĠg ap\na ire\nĠe ast\nĠrec overy\nper ial\nĠprof it\nĠM ic\nĠ5 7\nĠcol on\nĠstrong ly\nst yle\nĠalleg ations\nh an\nĠrep orters\nj o\nr ine\narg et\nand al\nĠ0 3\nĠfl ash\ntr ans\nĠstr ict\nĠpark ing\nĠPak istan\nĠl i\nĠwe ird\nĠE ric\nĠreg ions\nĠJ un\nĠint ellect\nĠW H\nod ing\nrib utes\nup id\nĠT it\nĠf inger\nor ia\nĠe lev\nĠF ield\nĠcon clusion\n; ;\nĠfeel ings\nĠext ensive\nĠm ixed\nĠne uro\nv y\nĠhar ass\nĠC irc\nou ch\nĠterrit ory\nĠsuccess fully\nM ar\nĠing red\nĠoverw hel\nĠl ayer\nV iew\nĠall ies\nill ance\nĠTh ree\nĠb unch\nĠnorm ally\nĠnet works\nĠsac r\nĠC IA\nb les\nĠch ose\nĠopp onents\nĠregard less\nĠfr anch\nĠpre f\nĠP o\nĠbr idge\nann a\nĠSil ver\nĠw age\np age\nri or\nĠrad ical\nĠL ittle\nĠman ip\nĠsecret ary\nĠg ang\nD R\nF A\nĠdec ent\nĠSp irit\nĠun cle\nĠDevelop ment\nĠinvest ors\nĠwall s\nĠpub lish\nĠgener ate\niss ions\nc ar\nĠprom ote\nĠcut ting\nĠche st\nĠdrink ing\nĠcollect ed\nĠ7 2\nĠhop ing\nĠem br\ngor ith\nĠwar ned\nĠinstruct ions\nO G\nĠD id\nĠAg ency\nĠg ear\nĠcritic ism\nĠF urther\nĠut il\nann y\nR ed\nĠcoun sel\nĠAs ian\nĠredu ction\np ool\nĠteach ing\nĠdeep ly\ni y\nĠestim ates\nĠcho ices\nĠperman ent\nin em\nke l\nĠf asc\np se\nf ile\nĠL ow\nĠP erson\nĠt ournament\nst al\nĠm el\nU ST\nĠR ay\naz i\nV al\nĠcont ained\nĠH olly\nĠw ake\nĠreve al\nĠprocess es\nĠIS IS\nĠ0 9\nĠbl ind\nĠste el\nĠB ad\nĠcare fully\napp y\nro it\nĠg aming\nĠhous es\nĠC oll\nĠtr uck\ner m\nĠsc ored\nĠocc as\nret urn\nb ound\nv ar\nĠsh arp\nĠaf raid\nĠE X\nam ber\nc ific\nĠsche me\nN C\nĠPol it\nĠdecl ine\nĠ199 8\nĠpus hing\nĠposs ession\nĠpriv ile\nĠteacher s\nĠy ield\nH A\nĠDav is\nit led\n#### ####\nĠr ig\nĠD aniel\nac on\nĠh ide\nut en\nĠcolle agues\nĠprin ciples\nĠl oud\nĠs in\nĠDem on\nĠst one\nĠ0 2\nĠt aught\nĠter rible\nĠst uck\nĠPol icy\nte en\nĠimplement ation\nĠB BC\nĠAP I\nĠwhe el\nall as\nĠch ampions\nol ars\nplay er\nĠrepeated ly\nĠSt ill\nĠlik es\nast y\nes ter\nĠCath olic\nR L\nĠb ath\nĠno ise\nt itle\nĠn orthern\nP art\nĠmag n\nĠf ab\nĠAs h\nĠdis pl\nĠtick et\nĠm urd\nĠalong side\nĠMus ic\nĠr iver\nĠSte el\nĠC L\nĠPl ayer\nĠM ult\now ing\nre p\ns ize\nĠt ur\nĠGeorg ia\nisc al\nra ction\nĠc able\nĠ5 9\nĠw ins\nĠup coming\nĠsurv ive\nĠins pired\nĠEduc ation\nĠstat istics\nĠF oot\niam i\nĠy ellow\nĠP age\n. -\nĠH as\nĠur ban\nĠa x\nes sel\n\\ \"\nĠquarter back\nĠreg ister\nĠLab or\nĠab ilities\nĠF amily\nĠvar iable\nĠPr ice\nĠcont em\nĠth in\nĠE qu\nd ata\nĠg otten\nĠconst it\nĠas ks\nĠt ail\nĠexc iting\nĠE ffect\nĠSp anish\nĠencour age\nins on\nĠA h\nĠcommit ment\nC S\nĠr ally\nĠ: :\nĠsubs id\nĠsp in\nĠcapt ured\n201 8\nĠinn oc\nĠalleged ly\nĠC ome\nĠart ists\nĠN umber\nĠelect ronic\nĠreg ional\nap es\nĠw ra\nĠmy th\npr ise\nĠM iller\nĠC reat\nĠEp isode\nb ell\nĠdirect ed\nĠext ract\nĠs orry\nĠv ice\nag ger\nĠSu pport\nĠ6 6\nĠI ron\nĠwonder ful\nĠg ra\nN et\nion e\nE ng\nĠsh ips\nik es\nĠK evin\nit ar\nĠactiv ists\ntr ue\nĠAri zona\nent h\nĠDes pite\nĠS E\nĠha bit\nern el\nĠin qu\nĠab ortion\nĠv oid\nĠexpl icit\nĠeng aged\nĠang ry\nĠr ating\nĠfr ag\nb ro\nick ing\nd ev\nĠwor ried\nĠob ser\nĠap artment\nĠG T\nĠest ate\nĠConst itution\nem on\nĠS now\nĠcount y\nĠdis ag\nĠStep hen\nĠimm igrants\nw ind\nĠN ations\nĠfol ks\nO ut\nĠg all\nĠtarget ed\nĠst ead\nĠB on\nĠL ib\nĠinform ed\nĠ12 0\nch ain\nidel ines\nor ough\nĠdri ven\nĠregular ly\nĠbas ket\nĠprinc iple\noc ument\nĠst un\nib ilities\nĠRom an\nĠAb out\nĠal ert\nĠdemocr acy\nĠrepresent ed\nH S\nc ers\np arent\nAr t\np ack\nĠdi plom\nre ts\nĠN O\nĠcapt ure\nĠAd v\nĦ ¢\nĠannounce ment\nĠL ear\nĠh ook\nĠpur s\nĠS uch\nĠC amer\nĠrefuge es\nĠV e\nP ol\nĠrecogn ized\nl ib\nĠhad n\nA ss\nĠpil ot\nus hing\nĠreturn ing\nĠtra il\nĠSt one\nĠrout ine\nĠcour ts\nĠdes per\nĠfriend ly\nĠIt aly\nĠpl ed\nĠbreat h\nĠstud io\nN S\nĠimp ressive\nĠAfghan istan\nĠf ing\nĠd ownt\nink ing\nĠR og\ni ary\ncol or\nse x\nar on\nĠf ault\nĠN ick\nD own\nĠR ose\nĠS outhern\nX X\nis odes\nL ist\n6 00\nĠout come\ner r\nĠelse where\nĠret ire\nĠp ounds\nĠGl obal\nPe ople\nĠcommun ications\nĠlo an\nĠrat io\nĠEm pire\nĠg onna\nĠinv ent\nD F\nĠ19 70\nĠComm on\np at\nĠprom ised\nĠd inner\nĠH om\nĠcreat es\nĠoper ate\nver ty\nĠJ ordan\net ime\nĠsust ain\nR eg\nĠincred ible\nim a\nĠwar rant\nĠm m\nA tt\nĠlaw suit\nĠreview s\nit ure\nĠS ource\nl ights\nĠF ord\nĠ6 3\ng roup\nst ore\nĠfeat ured\nĠfore ver\nĠpo verty\nĠP op\nĠC NN\naz z\nab is\nach ing\nĠl aid\nĠSu pp\nĠfil ter\nen a\nĠCommun ity\nĠcreat ures\nu ction\nĠR oyal\nĠassoci ation\nĠCon nect\nĠBr ad\nâĸ Ī\nl ers\nthe re\nĠG i\nĠval uable\nAC K\nĠT aylor\nĠl iquid\nĠAtt orney\nĠCar l\nĠF inal\nag a\nĠWil son\nB ecause\nĠProf essor\nak a\nĠincred ibly\nr ance\n! )\nR ef\ns k\nĠsol utions\nĠatmosp here\nĠbl ame\num es\nĠN ob\nC A\num ps\nr ical\nĠPut in\nĠD est\nor ic\nĠP A\nĠrespect ively\nw an\nĠfif th\nâ Ħ¢\nĠC ry\nĠgovern or\nres ident\nĠpurch ased\nĠh ack\nĠint ense\nob s\nĠorig in\nĠdef ine\nĠcare ful\n** *\nĠshould er\nCl ick\nĠt ied\nĠdest ruction\nou red\nĠno body\nĠh o\nĠEx per\nĠt ip\n\" ;\nĠtechn ique\nĠj ur\nĠP ok\nb ow\nĠleg end\nĠacc ord\nĠbus y\nĠInt el\nĠh ang\nak i\n. ]\nâĢĶâĢĶ âĢĶâĢĶ\nĠsur gery\nĠrep rodu\nĠun iform\nĠscen es\nc ode\nĠ6 2\nl isher\nĠH ave\nph ia\nĠcry pt\nĠrec on\nĠsc ream\nĠadop ted\nĠsc ores\nN e\nĠIt alian\nin cluding\nB O\nĠindic ated\nĠent ertain\nG u\nT ext\ni el\nĠtw enty\nĠeng age\noff s\nĠPac ific\nĠsm ile\nĠperson nel\nĠto ler\nĠdo ors\nĠt one\nĠmach ines\nĠent ering\nten ance\nC O\nĠJer sey\nĠfore st\nĠhor se\nĠcompl aint\nĠSpr ing\ny o\nĠPl us\ned ing\nĠRet urn\nqu arters\nial s\nc ow\nĠacad emic\nĠf ruit\nĠ199 6\nog ether\nĠw ine\nĠpur su\nĠSte ven\nĠlic ens\nWh o\nĠclot hes\nre ction\nĠsqu ad\nĠst able\nĠr aw\nz ens\nSt ar\nut ies\nanc er\nĠke ys\nĠM u\nĠcompl icated\nig er\nĠTe xt\nĠabs or\nĠ6 8\nĠfun ny\nĠrel ief\nĠL ew\nĠC ook\nĠch art\nĠdraw ing\nG E\nĠmod ule\nĠB ull\nI LL\nĠs alt\n0000 0000\nil le\nĠres ource\naw ay\nadel phia\nĠB ru\nĠ6 7\nĠsome body\nĠparticip ate\nĠro se\nwe red\nĠmus cle\nĠcons ent\nĠcontin uing\nĠGuard ian\nĠOr der\nreg on\nĠre ar\nĠprov ision\nĠlik ed\nri ent\nĠb ra\nTr ans\nĠmeet ings\nĠto x\nĠcon vent\nĠaut o\nĠrec ording\nĠSo ft\n00 1\nĠR oll\nĠprogram ming\nĠp ic\nĠprov ed\nĠst ab\nĠA st\nĠca ption\nul ating\nĠAtt ack\nĠnew ly\nĠ199 7\nf r\nĠdis cipl\nĠGree k\nĠed ition\nĠDo es\nĠB ox\nif le\nack et\nĠpass es\nĠgu est\nĠac celer\nit als\nU D\nĠaut hent\nĠR est\nov al\nt a\nu ine\nĠarm or\nĠT own\nĠcomp at\nĠinc hes\nDes pite\nĠass ign\nhe rent\nĠprep are\nĠM eg\noc key\nĠdep ends\nĠtrack s\nw atch\nĠl ists\nĠN orthern\nĠal ter\nre c\nĠE astern\nĠcond em\nĠevery where\n? '\nĠaff ili\nĠf ought\n\": {\"\nĠm ac\nit arian\nĠsc ope\nĠA L\naw s\nar ms\nĠqu e\nĠenjoy ed\nnes ota\nĠagg ressive\nĠSt ory\nĠI V\nĠrec ipe\nĠrare ly\nĠMed ical\nval ue\nang el\nay ing\nomet hing\nĠsub section\nĠs outhern\nĠfrequ ency\nre te\nroll ed\nult s\nĠN ic\nĠbeh alf\nĠsequ ence\nab et\nĠcontrovers ial\nĠcomp rom\nĠwork er\nĠmain ly\nĠal gorith\nĠM ajor\nor ce\ng ender\nĠorgan ized\nĠf ake\nĠconclud ed\nĠE D\nĠEx ec\nr age\nĠch ances\nber ry\nĠTr ad\nĠconfig uration\nĠwithd raw\nĠf ro\nud es\nĠBro ther\nĠB rian\nĠtri es\nĠsam ples\nĠb id\nĠGold en\nĠphot ograph\nif est\nĠD O\nĠPar liament\n******** ********\nR em\nĠcont est\nĠsign ing\np x\nĠZ eal\nâĶĢ âĶĢ\nE ar\nĠex it\nBe fore\nĠCor por\nn ull\nmon th\nĠrac ial\nott ed\nĠV eg\nĠRe uters\nĠsw ord\nps on\nĠRom ney\na ed\nĠt rib\nĠin ner\nĠprot ocol\nĠB i\nĠM iami\never al\np ress\nĠsh ipping\nĠAm endment\nĠHow ard\ncon nect\nĠD isc\nĠJ ac\niam ond\nĠThere fore\ns es\nĠPrin cess\nĠUS B\nĠAn th\nĠsurve illance\nĠap olog\nĠ6 1\now a\nĠf ulf\nj s\nĠl uck\nust ed\nĠ §\nn i\nĠant icip\nem an\nĠwin ner\nĠsil ver\nll a\nic ity\nĠunus ual\nĠcr ack\nĠt ies\ne z\nĠpract ical\nĠprov ince\nĠPl ace\nĠprior ity\nIC E\nĠdescrib es\nĠbr anch\nF orm\nask a\nmiss ions\nb i\nĠp orn\nĠTur k\nĠent hus\nĠf ighters\nĠ0 8\nĠDet roit\nĠfound ation\nav id\nA re\nĠjud gment\ncl ing\nĠsol ve\nĠDes ign\nW here\nhes is\nĠT ro\na fter\nĠne utral\nĠPalestin ian\nĠHolly wood\nĠadv is\nĠN on\ny es\nol is\nĠrep utation\nĠsm ell\nĠb read\nĠB ul\nĠBe ach\nĠclaim ing\nĠgen etic\nĠtechn ologies\nĠupgr ade\nrow s\nĠdevelop er\nĠJ osh\nĠDis ney\nerv ed\nip al\nĠun ex\nĠbare ly\nt hen\nĠP ub\nĠill ness\net ary\nĠB al\nĠp atch\nĠbut t\nĠst upid\nĠD og\nĠD allas\nf ront\nie ce\nĠprot ests\nĠch at\noen ix\nĠw ing\nĠpar liament\nĠ7 7\nose xual\nĠre nder\npt ions\nĠCo ast\nos a\nĠG reg\nh op\nĠMan agement\nĠbit coin\nĠrec over\nĠincor por\nor ne\nĠUs ing\nĠpre ced\nĠthreat ened\nĠspirit ual\nĠE vent\nĠF red\nĠadvert ising\nĠimprove ments\nĠC ustom\nĠer rors\nĠsens itive\nĠN avy\nĠcre am\nL ook\nĠex clusive\nĠcomp rehens\nĠde leg\nĠcon ce\nĠrem em\nĠstruct ures\nĠst ored\nN D\nĠ1 000\nU P\nĠB udd\nA F\nw oman\nĠAcad emy\nð Ł\nse a\nĠtem porary\nAb out\nes ters\nĠtick ets\nĠposs ess\nin ch\no z\nĠl a\nĠcontract s\nĠun p\nĠc ig\nĠK at\nult ural\nas m\nĠmount ain\nĠCapt ain\nSt ep\nm aking\nĠSp ain\nĠequ ally\nĠl ands\nat ers\nĠreject ed\ner a\nim m\nri x\nC D\nĠtrans action\ng ener\nless ly\nĠ| |\nĠc os\nĠHen ry\nĠprov isions\nĠg ained\nĠdirect ory\nĠra ising\nĠS ep\nol en\nond er\nĠcon sole\nin st\nĠb om\nĠunc ertain\n1 50\nock ing\nĠmeas ured\nĠpl ain\nĠse ats\nĠd ict\nS L\naf e\nĠest imate\niz on\nat hered\nĠcontribut ed\nĠep isodes\nomm od\nG r\nAN T\nĠ6 9\nG ener\nĠ2 50\nvious ly\nrog en\nĠterror ism\nĠmove ments\nent le\noun ce\nĠS oul\nĠpre v\nĠT able\nact s\nri ors\nt ab\nĠsuff er\nĠn erv\nĠmain stream\nĠW olf\nĠfranch ise\nb at\nĠdem ands\nĠag enda\nĠdo zen\nĠclin ical\niz ard\nĠO p\nt d\nĠvis ited\nĠPer haps\nĠact or\nĠde lic\nĠcont ribute\nĠin ject\nĠE s\nac co\nĠlist ening\nĠcon gress\nepend ent\nĠprem ium\nĠ7 6\nĠIr ish\nĠass igned\nĠPh ys\nĠworld wide\nĠnarr ative\not ype\nm ont\nb ase\nĠB owl\nĠAdminist ration\nĠrel ation\nĠE V\nC P\nĠco vers\nĠ7 8\nĠcert ific\nĠgr ass\nĠ0 4\npir acy\nir a\nĠengine ering\nĠM ars\nĠun employ\nĠFore ign\nst ract\nĠv en\nĠst eal\nĠrepl ied\nĠult imate\nĠtit les\nd ated\nĠj oy\na us\nĠhy per\nak u\nĠoffic ially\nĠPro duct\nĠdifficult y\nper or\nĠresult ed\nrib ed\nl ink\nwh o\n~~ ~~\nĠSpe ed\nĠV iet\nW ind\nĠBar ack\nĠrestrict ions\nĠSh are\nĠ199 5\nition ally\nĠbeaut y\nop t\nĠm aps\nĠC R\nĠN ation\nĠCru z\nW ill\nĠelectric ity\nĠor g\nĠb urd\nĠviol ation\nĠus age\nĠper mit\nĠCh ron\nĠF ant\nĠn aturally\nĠ0 7\nĠth rown\nĠAw oken\nĠal ien\nĠHer o\nĠK ent\nĠR ick\nri ke\nĠp ace\n}, {\"\nG L\nĠpo ison\nĠT ower\nĠform al\nal ysis\nĠgen uine\nĠk il\na ver\nĠproced ure\nĠPro p\nintend o\nĠM ain\nas ant\nĠtr ained\nG ame\nĠL oad\nĠM A\nĠcru cial\nĠle ts\nĠF R\nĠch ampion\n1 01\nĠCon ference\nĠwrit ers\nĠconnect ions\nĠo kay\nir ms\nĠR and\nĠenc ounter\nĠB uff\nĠachie ved\nĠche cks\nisc ons\nĠassist ant\nĠwhen ever\nĠA ccess\nĠU r\nb in\nĠcl ock\nis p\nop her\nĠb orrow\nĠm ad\nĠperson ality\non ly\nIS T\nab ama\nĠg ains\nĠcommon ly\nĠter r\nĠhyp ot\nĠre ly\nĠt iss\niscons in\nĠrid ic\nf unction\nĠO regon\nĠun com\nr ating\nel and\nĠN C\nĠm oon\nann on\nĠvulner able\nut ive\n³³ ³³\nĠRad io\nĠw estern\nse ct\nĠT ony\nĠocc urs\nĠO s\nĠH on\nà Ń\nĠv essel\nĠScot land\nĠdiscrim ination\nĠsubsequ ent\nst ring\nĠfant asy\nĠSh adow\nĠtest im\nW E\nit i\nr as\nĠbo at\nĠmar ks\nĠord inary\nĠre n\nĠrepresent ative\nĠpet ition\nĠ7 3\nĠad venture\nĠign ore\nĠPhil adelphia\nĠS av\nV P\nĠfact ory\nĠt asks\nĠdep ression\nz ed\n................ ................\nĠSt orm\nĠc ogn\nĠelig ible\nĠredu cing\nv ia\nĠ0 5\nĠstri king\nĠdoll ar\nh o\nO V\nĠinstr ument\nĠphilosoph y\nĠMo ore\nĠA venue\nĠrul ed\nĠFr ont\nIN E\nĠM ah\nĠscen ario\nĠNAS A\nĠen orm\nĠdeb ut\nĠte a\nT oday\nĠabs ence\nS im\nĠh am\nle ep\nĠt ables\nĠHe art\nM I\nK e\nre qu\nV D\nm ap\nĠchair man\nĠp ump\nĠrapid ly\nv i\nĠsubstant ial\nE P\nd es\nch ant\nili pp\nĠS anta\nri ers\nanche ster\nL oad\nĠC ase\nĠsa ving\nĠ7 4\nĠA FP\ner ning\noun ced\nĠMin nesota\nĠW as\nĠrec ru\nĠassess ment\nĠB ron\nU E\nĠdynam ic\nĠf urn\nul ator\nĠprop ag\nh igh\nĠacc ommod\nĠst ack\nĠS us\nw rit\nĠre ven\nĠGod d\nĠZeal and\nab s\nĠbr ut\nĠper pet\nh ot\nĠhard ly\nĠB urn\nãĤ ¹\nĠst y\nĠtrans actions\nĠg ate\nĠsc reens\nĠsub mitted\nĠ1 01\nĠlangu ages\nugh t\nem en\nĠfall s\nĠc oc\nĤ ¬\nĠstri kes\np a\nĠdel iber\nĠI M\nĠrel ax\nann els\nĠSen ator\nĠext rem\nĠ} ,\nĠDe b\nĠbe ll\nĠdis order\nc ut\nĠi OS\nĠl ocked\nĠem issions\nĠshort ly\n\" ]\nĠJud ge\nĠS ometimes\nĠr ival\nĠd ust\nĠreach ing\nF ile\n¯¯ ¯¯\nino is\nĠJ ason\nĠs atell\nare t\nĠst ations\nĠag ric\nĠTechn ology\ncom es\nĠUn fortunately\nĠChild ren\nĠappl ies\nast ed\nĠan ger\nail ability\nĠDam age\nĠcomp are\nĠStand ard\nĠaim ed\nĠB a\nangu age\nĠreg ulation\nĠj ury\nĠair port\nĠse ctions\nĠPr ince\nem ed\nĠmedic ine\nĠh itting\nĠsp ark\nol ves\nĠad s\nSt ate\nĠfood s\nĠrepl acement\nĠch icken\nĠlow est\nĠmind s\nĠinvol ves\nu i\nĠarr ang\nĠproced ures\nĠWh ich\nivers ary\nĠb ills\nĠimprove ment\nĠin ev\nĠexpect ations\nĠintellect ual\nĠsp aces\nĠmechan ism\n2 50\nbre ak\nĠZ e\nĠT enn\nĠB alt\nĠbar rel\nĠstat ic\nman n\nPol ice\nĠt ips\nĠhand ling\nc us\nod ed\nil ton\nir y\nĠjournal ists\nour se\nĠcom ic\nĠnom ine\nIT Y\nĠvers us\nĠlo op\nĠsur f\nĠInd ust\nĠHun ter\nĠbelief s\nis an\nĠset up\nĠbre w\nim age\nĠcomput ers\nf ol\n} ,\"\nĠMed al\nĠtax p\nĠdisplay ed\nĠg rav\nĠf iscal\nM on\nĠMos cow\nĠK ong\nĠCent re\nĠcamer as\nĠMr s\nĠH ay\nĠa ver\nĠK elly\np y\nĠrequire ment\nĠent itled\nomb ie\nĠsh adow\nag ic\nĠA k\nĠel ite\nĠdiv ided\nĠhead ing\nĠcop ies\nĠloss es\nĠv it\nk ed\nĠB ry\nĠan s\nĠSte am\nĠrep orter\nhe im\nĠIt em\nĠsuper ior\nd on\nere nt\nà ¶\nĠtherap y\nĠpe ak\nĠMod el\nĠl ying\nĠg am\nz er\nr itten\nĠrespons es\nĠconsider ation\nĠB ible\nĠl oyal\nĠinst ant\nĠp m\nĠFore st\nà ¼\nĠext end\nĠconv icted\nĠfound er\nĠconv in\nĠO ak\nche ck\nĠsch olars\np ed\nĠover se\nT op\nc ount\nĠAr k\n ·\nĠ0 6\nĠL A\nm d\nĠLat in\nim ental\nĠC PU\nĠsubst ance\nĠminor ity\nĠmanufact uring\nE r\nocol ate\nĠatt ended\nĠMan ager\nr ations\nĠappreci ate\nom y\nGB T\nid ency\nB L\nĠguarant ee\npos ition\nĠo cean\nclud e\nĠhead ed\nĠt ape\nĠlo ose\nĠlog ic\nĠpro ven\nĠsp ir\nĠad mit\nis a\nĠinvestig ate\nĠ199 4\nsy lv\nĠL ost\nc est\nĠ7 1\nĠrequest ed\nĠwind ows\nĠPok é\nĠWith out\nM et\nĠbehavi our\nĠread er\nĠh ung\nĠKe ep\nĠro les\nĠimplement ed\nĠbl ank\nĠserv es\nĠJ ay\nĠc ited\nĠF riend\nprof it\nap on\nĠrep air\nit em\narr ass\nĠcrit ics\nad i\nĠF ather\nĠsh out\nĠf ool\nĠ8 8\nĠprodu cing\nĠl ib\nĠround s\nĠcirc le\nĠpre par\nĠsub mit\nĠn ic\nmor row\nãĥ «\nU nder\nĠv ital\nater n\nĠpass word\nĠpublic ation\nĠprom inent\nĠspeak s\nĠb ars\nĠde eper\nĠM ill\nport ed\nĠw id\nĠbut ter\nĠsm oking\nĠindic ates\nK ey\nrop ri\nĠF ile\nall ing\nast ing\nĠR us\nĠad j\nĠ7 9\nav al\nĠpres um\nbur gh\non ic\nĠf ur\nĠpoll s\nik a\nĠsecond ary\nĠmon ster\nig s\nĠCur rent\nE vent\nĠowners hip\nend ar\nĠarri ve\nĠT ax\nĠn ull\nĠPri v\nĠth ro\nĠk iss\nc at\nĠup set\nang le\nit ches\nect or\nolog ists\nĠGal axy\nĠcor ruption\nĠh int\nent er\nĠH ospital\nĠgreat ly\nĠbeg un\nes y\nĠso il\nĠAnt on\nĠmain tenance\nãĥ ©\nĠdo zens\nĠhuman ity\nĠAl abama\nĠr om\nw orth\nap ing\nsylv ania\nl ah\nĠg athered\nG A\nĠattack ing\nf ound\nĠSqu are\nĠar bit\nict ions\nĠW isconsin\nĠd ance\nĠS aint\narch y\nĠbase ball\nĠcontribut ions\nĠliter ature\nĠex ha\nper ty\nt est\nĠb ab\nĠcontain er\nlet ter\nĠfall en\nĠwebs ites\nĠbott le\nĠS ac\nĠbre ast\nĠP L\nĠveter an\nĠinterview s\nĠA le\nĠb anned\neng ers\nĠRev olution\nin th\nĠconc erning\nIV E\nĠexp enses\nĠMatt hew\nĠColumb ia\nd s\nist ance\nĠent ity\n.. .\"\nĠrel iable\nĠpar alle\nĠChrist ians\nĠopin ions\nĠin du\nl ow\nĠcompet e\nĠth orough\nĠemploy ed\nĠestablish ment\nig en\nĠC ro\nĠlawy ers\nĠSt ation\nT E\nĠL ind\nĠP ur\nit ary\nĠeffic iency\nâĢ IJ\nĠL y\nĠm ask\nĠdis aster\nĠag es\nER E\nes is\nĠH old\nĠcas ual\nb led\nĠen abled\nĠEn vironment\nĠInt elligence\ni per\nĠM ap\nĠB E\nĠemer ged\nis dom\nĠc abin\nĠregist ration\nĠfing ers\nĠro ster\nĠfram ework\nĠDo ctor\net ts\nĠtransport ation\nĠaware ness\nH er\nĠattempt ing\nO ff\nĠSt ore\nÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤ ÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤ\nĠK now\nĠdef ence\nĠsc an\nĠT en\nĠCh air\nĠP H\nĠAtl anta\nĠfuck ing\nĠans wered\nb n\nĠK ar\nĠcateg ories\nĠr ational\nĠc ust\nĠrob ot\nĠcorrect ly\nĠg if\nĠgraph ics\nm ic\nĠground s\nĠO pp\ni ate\nĠdist ributed\nĠsan ctions\nĠchalleng ing\nut o\nĠingred ients\nĠinv ited\nĠfound ed\nĠRe qu\nd ed\nĠb owl\nĠbrother s\nĠH a\nI O\nĠw ages\nim ore\noc ial\nĠse ed\native ly\nĠaddress es\nĠI owa\nab eth\nĠatt itude\nis d\nch ild\nĠm ole\nĠdisco very\ny ard\nB r\nĠ8 2\nĠsuppl ies\nell ing\nĠdist ingu\nC R\nĠre cept\nĠ vert\nĠsw im\nb ec\nd oor\nĠY eah\nĠg al\nĠinter act\nĠE SP\nĠC S\namp s\nĠconvin ced\nĠobject ive\nĠdis h\nĠPhot os\nl ad\nĠdownt own\no il\nin ction\nĠto morrow\nĠC OM\nĠsurv ival\nsh ot\nĠsett lement\nC ons\nĠX box\nint erest\nĠS M\narg o\nen ess\nĠeth nic\nb ered\nM in\nĠT ok\nĠinc ent\nĠComm and\nĠmain tained\nĠbreak s\nbr idge\nat ar\nag g\nĠF inally\nun icip\nĠO nt\nle ft\nĠrecogn ition\nĠ* /\nĠP ers\nĠwe lf\nĠaddress ed\nĠK ansas\nĠvir us\nĠwhere as\nĠp apers\nram s\nĠMin istry\nĠple asure\nĠacqu ired\nĠd uration\nj pg\nĠcal m\nĠN HL\nĠburn ing\nĠfold er\nick ed\nĠP y\nĠIll inois\nCl ass\nĠGodd ess\nĠperform ing\nĠwelf are\nj ar\nIn ter\nĠl in\nĠenh ance\nĠnot ion\nf are\nyp es\nĠAre a\nĠcann abis\nĠDie go\nf s\nĠM anchester\ncom m\nin ite\nĠcover ing\nĠS ound\nĠ19 60\nĠ8 4\ne lect\nz ing\nĠcitiz en\nĠph ones\nĠr aid\nĠign ored\nĠOb ject\nĠu pload\nc ard\nĠmod ified\nĠroom s\nia h\nr ange\nhe ast\nach us\nĠsuggest ing\nâĢ ĭ\ngr ade\nE l\nĠclot hing\nĠr h\nĠH an\nun ity\nen cing\nĠAust in\nsec ution\nt ra\nd em\nĠQ ual\nĠhe aven\nĠst ages\nĠw edd\npl us\nific ial\nĠIm m\nĠH o\niet ies\nĠphr ase\nĠbr ill\nact ory\nĠprov iders\nĠsil ence\nĠa er\nĠA I\nĠAd venture\nĠplatform s\nĠdemonstr ated\nĠinter f\ning ton\nĠr aces\nĠgr ade\nult ane\nĠTh rough\nf alse\nĠb ow\nĠA B\nĠfl avor\nĠhistor ic\ng ov\nĠcol our\nĠview ed\nĠEm ail\nel come\nĠinter vention\nĠd iversity\nĠperiod s\nĠre verse\nĠV ery\nĠqu ote\nĠLe ft\nth rough\nĠsc rew\nĠland ing\nĠp ill\nĠw et\nĠprot esters\nĠrepe at\nav ed\ner k\nĠsal ary\nĠPenn sylvania\nSt ill\nĠmay or\nĠkit chen\nĠfeat uring\nĠM useum\nĠT ournament\nĠF al\nĠser vers\nU C\nĠany body\nim g\nĠTr ade\nixt ure\nthe less\nĠfin ance\nĠcl osing\nĠPat ri\ni ac\nab el\nĠ> >\nor ous\nĠf irms\nsc reen\nun a\nĠemb arrass\nul se\nĠlet ting\nĠth rew\nile y\nĠch annels\nl an\nĠVeg as\nĠse ar\nĠfant astic\nar re\nuzz le\nĠD er\nTh ose\nĠsw ing\nĠshe et\nind ex\nco ver\nog an\nĠvari ables\nĠTe ch\nĠsp oken\nac hel\nĠD a\nĠMount ain\nĠload ed\nĠfoot age\nvers ion\nĠun l\nĠPh oenix\nĠthrow ing\nĠf iring\nĠtrack ing\nĠw idth\nĠstrugg ling\nro oms\not ion\nĠmonth ly\nĠSer ver\nĠegg s\nop en\nM C\nĠ199 3\nĠh ired\nĠstay ed\nĠAll en\nĠst ro\nĠ9 8\nst ep\nĠTurk ish\nĠfab ric\nist ing\nĠD om\nĠd ates\nĠpr on\nĠbasket ball\nĠl ucky\nĠArab ia\nĠassum ed\nest y\nĠaff airs\nĠgl ad\nĠInd eed\nĠF A\nĠW ord\nĠjo ining\nif ice\np read\nir ts\nĠSe lect\nĠpop ulations\naw are\nĠn ose\nĠcompl aints\nst art\nĠsc oring\nTh anks\nĠmin ing\nĠvisit ors\nS H\nĠdam aged\nĠcharacter istics\nĠP ent\nD C\nĠ8 3\nĠS ix\nr ates\nĠfl ags\nĠB rew\nd og\nM ark\n// //\nĠexec ution\nĠj oke\nph ones\nĠtestim ony\nĠob st\nQ L\nĠC ut\nĠstud ied\nĠN intendo\nick et\nĠN BC\nĠl ad\nĠB ra\nĠM oh\nĠk ernel\nĠoverwhel ming\nĠag ed\nĠapplic able\nĠC ond\nĠroad s\nĠBl ock\nm ade\nod ge\nĠcomm ands\nĠoff ices\nvel and\nĠt ut\nĠrece iver\nĠF ro\nĠsho pping\nĠi P\nĠSt re\nĠA BC\nĠentertain ment\nĠB ow\nort ed\nM c\nĠread s\ngr ad\nĠCol lect\nĠâ ĪĴ\nĠCap ital\neder ation\nĠemploy er\nĠinvolve ment\nĠanx iety\nal ia\nĠro of\nĠAm ong\nĠDemocr at\nĠstat s\nĠV ill\nĠconst itutional\nĠrefer ring\nitt y\nĠtack le\nout ube\nĠback ed\nĠH ong\nĠBro ad\nĠe le\nĠO tt\nĠ199 2\nh our\nachus etts\nC al\nĠdefe ated\nĠ8 1\nes p\nĠseem ingly\nw as\nĠJ enn\nĠK urd\nĠg ene\nĠdisc ount\nR et\nEC T\n( );\nĠclub s\nĠs id\nĠM arsh\nChe ck\nĠp p\nĠE ag\nides pread\nĠbe ings\nF T\nĠintrodu ction\nĠCh ange\nAR D\nĠ1 10\nad ows\nier ce\nĠme al\na uthor\nĠB ang\nlah oma\nĠr anks\n201 1\n?? ??\nm ax\nĠcoll apse\nĠop ens\nĠe cho\nĠs oph\nĠrac ist\nĠenorm ous\nĠw aves\nĠt ap\nĠcomprehens ive\n. --\nĠR oy\nĠfarm ers\nRel ated\na ired\nron es\nĠC rim\nĠproport ion\nĠdesign s\nĠnegoti ations\nĠvirt ually\nĠBat man\nĠwar n\nĠlegit imate\nm ate\nĠcon vention\n, ,\nnet ic\nĠS D\nĠconsist ently\nĠcompens ation\nĠpunish ment\nĠy e\nĠt ie\nĠB ureau\nir lf\nĠB u\nĠA ren\nĠPh ilipp\nĠkn ife\nĠmem ories\nĠR oss\nĠang le\nĠ8 6\nĠTh under\nĠre nd\nĠT our\nĠcount s\ns ung\nĠIm p\nĠeduc ational\nĠaccess ible\nC OM\nĠd rew\ny er\nG l\nam ine\nOR T\nO B\nI B\nm aster\nĠtri als\nog y\nh ar\nĠTr ust\nĠprefer red\nirlf riend\nĠN ev\nĠb in\nĠc ow\nP age\nĠsign ature\nĠB L\n7 00\nĠret ired\nĠby tes\nĠneigh b\nĠLeg end\nĠdev ast\nĠsuspect ed\nis ons\nĠPoké mon\nsc ale\nĠcap abilities\nĠre vel\nĠche ese\nd y\nigr ant\nĠfail ing\nb its\nĠHer oes\nĠG host\nĠS cient\nĠappoint ed\nur i\nĠinst itution\nĠexpand ed\ng reg\nĠmonitor ing\nĠp odcast\nĠcoal ition\nĠ9 6\nJ o\nĠst olen\nĠS ab\nĠstop s\nĠhol iday\nĠint r\nC ar\nBl ack\nĠL GBT\nĠwar ming\nĠAnd erson\nĠ8 9\nĠprodu cer\nM ed\nĠaccur acy\nĠMar vel\niz abeth\nĠPat rick\nm ony\nĠmin i\nac les\nĠover t\nthe y\nĠmembers hip\nĠV en\nĠex ch\nĠrem oval\nĠD ave\nT Y\nm ad\nĠF ind\nĠad equ\nĠe c\nĠte eth\nĠemot ion\nĠper m\nĠsole ly\nd b\nĠextra ord\nIG HT\nc al\nĠgu idelines\nĠd ying\nĠsusp ended\nĠPrem ier\nĠAnth ony\nel ve\nĠd ad\nĠE th\nĠFoot ball\nĠabandon ed\nĠ< <\nĠm arch\nĠhor ror\nâĢ¦ \"\nĠchild hood\nĠcampaign s\nĠl unch\nĠAl bert\nbl ock\nâĸĪ âĸĪ\nound ing\nĠb one\nor gan\nad ers\nĠFl ash\nĠDri ve\nĠton ight\nĠw ars\nĠF L\nĠform ation\ncon st\nNew s\nĠcom pe\nor ious\nĠSt aff\nĠdiscuss ions\nĠProt ection\nĠJ am\nĠcrit eria\nĠinstall ation\nĠaccompl ish\niz za\nĠpub lisher\nĠresc ue\nĠT ry\nU LL\nĠS om\nĠH op\nore t\nth s\nord on\nĠp ocket\nĠIn v\nDown load\nĠCr ime\nĠb ene\nĠGu ide\nĠAs sembly\nĠparam eters\nI E\nĠAlex ander\nĠconc ert\nĠSc he\nĠsh oes\nĠvis iting\nĠrec all\nĠb ub\nĠr ural\nĠconc rete\nĠR os\nN ext\nR uss\nĠlo ans\nĠSh ield\nĠtre m\nhem at\nk g\nĠHar ris\nis ition\nĠM ove\nĠF C\nĠf ate\nĠCh o\nĠt ired\nĠprinc ipal\nh ist\nien ces\nath y\nĠse vent\nĠm ood\nĠstrateg ic\nĠdise ases\nĠfor um\nĠtem por\nĠhead quarters\nP ar\nig e\nfl ix\nĠgu itar\nĠ9 4\nOn ly\nĠrele ases\nro ph\n================ ================\nĠ6 00\nĠContin ue\nig ate\nĠC rit\nsy stem\nĠdis abled\nĠunex pected\nith ub\nĠuncle ar\nĠE st\nĠcontr ad\nĠstrateg ies\nvent ures\nĠpass age\nAM E\nĠimpro ving\nĠreve als\nĠdecre ase\nov a\nĠann oy\nĠSh ort\nĠL ibrary\nĠcy ber\nn ell\nĠH ur\nĠC B\nĠphot ograp\nU I\nĠs ed\nG e\nĠ8 7\nĠd iverse\nĠencour aged\nĠcons piracy\nĠbird s\nĠoper ator\nĠhand ful\nĠclass ified\n? )\nĠdram atic\nĠinvestig ators\nit o\nĠw idespread\nĠR oom\n-------------------------------- --------------------------------\nĠcollect ive\nĠjournal ist\nSt ring\nĠtemper atures\nil a\nĠgu id\nĠins pect\nĠmiss ile\nĠMay or\nĠman ual\nĠsim ultane\nĠrat ings\nĠsu ck\nĠ9 7\nĠunivers al\nĠph arm\nĠdis rupt\nian o\nA V\nĠf t\nĠstat ist\nold s\nĠWalk er\nph p\nĠunder t\nĠL as\nish op\nnt il\nres hold\nĠWhe ther\nM s\nĠden y\nĠCl oud\nĠprov ider\nĠsurv iv\nĠUp date\nh as\nĠmist akes\nch arge\npl ed\nr ity\nĠn ode\nĠMass achusetts\nool s\nlic ation\nĠf ails\nem ale\nor i\nback s\nĠsh irt\nĠ' '\nĠN AT\nĠwat ers\nels on\nĠe ase\nĠsc ar\nĠcont ents\nm ind\nĠcont ribution\nĠsh r\nĠhand ed\nĠst ability\nĠtra ve\nE m\nĠmir ror\n12 3\nĠwe igh\nĠf iction\nou ver\nist ant\nr ition\nĠF ed\nĠphys ically\nĠst ake\nĠArt icle\nĠAr c\nĠLew is\nĠM ind\nĠdemonstr ate\nĠprof its\nv ision\nom ic\nol id\nĠbatt les\nĠdri ves\nĠeas tern\nĠS ony\n!! !\nar ation\nv ard\nĠG L\nport ation\nĠ9 2\nĠlaw makers\nĠprotect ing\nĠE PA\nĠy eah\nĠsh ame\nol ph\ne ven\nx it\nĠatt ach\nĠrepresent ing\nĠob s\nĠUt ah\niff s\nĠFre edom\nà ³\nA K\nĠinc idents\nit age\nĠview ers\nc d\nĠm ouse\nĠcl ar\nĠaccord ance\nĠb ot\nc or\nĠSum mer\nhe ld\nĠinnoc ent\nĠiniti ative\nol s\n________________ ________________\nĠsp ots\np ace\nĠconvent ional\nĠcorpor ations\nĠblock ed\nH D\nat tered\nĠref ers\nĠbu ck\nĠDig ital\n12 0\nĠtop ics\nT F\nÄ ģ\nbr id\nre ement\nĠunder lying\nĠM ember\nĠinvestig ating\nĠpregn ancy\nĠtouch down\nĠB and\nĠCall er\nĠinst ances\nP P\nw a\nG ood\nĠ199 1\nĠC old\nĠfear s\nĠrem arks\nĨ Ĵ\nat al\nĠm it\nĠexper iments\ni pt\nCol or\nind u\nUp date\nĠ9 3\nA g\nĠ å\nanc ouver\nB oth\nĠjud ges\nOb ject\nĠst ere\numb n\nĠparticip ation\nĠSt ars\nĠJ ere\nĠweek ly\nĠB an\nĠconvers ations\nĠP itt\nu z\nĠIndian a\nĠK ick\nĠinf ection\nĠhero es\nĠsett led\nĠstri p\nĠh al\nĠd ump\nĠS ci\nĠl es\nĠref erences\nĠU RL\nĠBr idge\nĠwant ing\nFor ce\nĠex clus\nMe anwhile\nm n\nĠg entle\nm aker\nsen al\nĠG ro\nou ri\nĠR ain\nĠAll iance\nĠl ift\nel a\nS D\nĠCle veland\nĠrank ed\nĠst adium\nĠdead ly\nä ¸\nĠr iding\nar ia\nĠAr mor\nĠdocument ation\nĠGree ce\nree k\nĠl ens\nĠS a\nĠg ross\nĠE mer\nag ers\nĠD ub\nĠR h\nĠAM D\nĠarri val\nĠdes ert\nĠsupp lement\nĠRes p\nĠkn ee\nĠmarg in\nf ont\nog g\n201 0\nĠP ir\nĠP rom\niv als\nĠint ake\nĠdifferent ly\nug s\nĠb its\nclud ed\nĠsearch ing\nĠD u\num ble\nĠfunction al\nĠBalt imore\nĠC ould\nĠdes ired\nĠcirc uit\nĠL yn\nĠG O\nĠF alse\nre pre\n' :\nalt ies\nĠmin im\nĠdro ve\nĠSh ould\nĠh ip\nĠpro s\nĠut ility\nĠN ature\nĠM ode\nP resident\no pp\nr at\nform ance\nĠconcent ration\nĠf ont\nĠB ud\nĠam id\nĠre vers\nĠM L\nB ar\nĠinter action\nĠjur isd\nĠspell s\nd ep\nf il\nĠcivil ians\nut ter\nĠCo oper\nĠBel ow\nĠent rance\nĠcon vert\nĠcontrovers y\now ered\nĠcontr ary\nĠar c\nĠExec utive\nĠOffic er\nĠpack ages\nĠprog ressive\nw idth\nĠreserv ed\nv ol\nĠSam sung\nĠprint ed\nĠcent ers\nĠintrodu ce\nĠKenn edy\nĠodd s\nĠsure ly\nĠindepend ence\nĠpass engers\nrepre ne\nĠBe h\nĠl oves\nĠESP N\nĠfac ilit\nĠident ical\nĠdo ct\nĠpartners hip\ncon f\nĠH ide\nĠconf used\nĠC ow\nM en\nĠw rest\nĠIraq i\nĠh oles\nĠStud ies\nĠpregn ant\nh ard\nĠsign als\nI X\nĠpull ing\nĠgrad uate\nĠnomine e\nD ate\nĠper mitted\nĠâ Ĥ¬\nĠOk lahoma\nSt art\nĠauthor ized\nĠal arm\nĠC os\nv an\nĠgener ations\nc ular\nĠdr agon\nĠSoft ware\nĠEd ward\nĠcontro ller\nS en\nge red\nĠV ik\nĠappro ached\nTh ank\nĠcan ce\nĠform ula\nĠSm all\nĠweak ness\nĠr amp\nit udes\nj ud\nĠbrill iant\nĠacc us\ns ource\nĠ8 00\nĠE vil\nS w\nĠhom eless\nwe ek\ni ens\nr ics\nĠTh ird\nT O\nĠorgan ic\nĠpresent ation\nag h\nĠDown load\nv ation\nĠas sembly\nor able\nhold ers\nĠBern ie\nĠHel p\nĠt ong\nĠF ight\nĠbe ach\nB ook\nĠL ic\nĠr ush\nĠR ound\nou p\nĠMar x\nĠcalcul ated\nĠDe vil\nĠSar ah\nĠoccasion ally\nĠbul let\nAv ailable\ng ate\nĠ9 1\nĠh osp\nĠprom ises\nĠH IV\nĠSt adium\nĠSt ock\nĠCorpor ation\ng age\nN G\nĠC redit\nĠs ne\nib l\nĠacc um\ns uch\nĠterror ists\nĠconscious ness\nĠZ h\nĠdram a\nool a\npir ation\nĠlab our\nĠN in\nĠut ter\nĠdemocr atic\nĠass ass\nil ation\nĠg est\nĠab road\nĠmet ab\nĠs orts\nĠfl av\nU B\nĠm g\nĠNot hing\nĠO d\nĠmus ical\n200 9\nĠdro ps\noc ated\nater al\n0000 00\nĠg re\nĠequ ality\nĠburd en\nĠv ig\nĠLe ader\n-------- ----\nĠcere mony\nĠf ighter\nĠact ors\nĠ æ\nam an\nF i\nĠal ign\nput er\nĠe lder\nĠN SA\nĠrepresent ation\nĠOnt ario\nIT H\nusal em\nĠharass ment\nitz er\nĠsy mp\nĠbox es\nĠD R\nĠman ifest\nat re\nĠ ^\nĠd ies\nle ton\nĠmiss ions\net he\nĠres olve\nĠfollow ers\nĠas c\nĠk m\nl ord\nam med\nĠsil ent\nĠAssoci ated\nĠtim ing\nĠprison ers\nĠK ings\nĠF ive\nĠtow er\nĠappro aches\nĠprecise ly\nĠb ureau\nĠM other\nĠI ss\nĠkey board\nit ual\nĠfund ed\nĠstay ing\nĠpsych ological\nĠm ile\nĠLe on\nĠBar b\nw ill\nĠw ider\nĠAtl antic\nĠt ill\nĠR ome\nro t\nĠaccomp an\nĠfl our\nac o\nW orld\nĠExp ress\nĠY u\nC or\nĠple ased\npart y\nĠpoint ing\nĠinf lation\nĠro y\nĠ ),\nain er\nĠwedd ing\norm on\nĠrequ iring\nĠqual ified\nĠse gment\nEN D\nĠs izes\ne als\nĠcor rupt\nass ador\nĠcele b\nĠdream s\nĠM ess\nĠcheck ing\nĠV ersion\nĠprep aring\nĠact ively\nĠD iff\nĠl ux\nĠW inter\nact eria\nĠN E\nĠdep uty\nĠtrans gender\nĠsum mary\nĠin her\ner ies\nch ar\nĠY an\nĠkn ock\nĠP ath\nĠl ip\nroll er\nĠimp ression\nĠcelebr ate\nĠsl ide\nĠgu ests\nĠcl ip\nF S\nĠsav ings\nĠcapt ain\nĠleg acy\nĠDen ver\nĠw ounded\ntab oola\nAC T\nĠpurs ue\nĠo xy\nĠ q\nĠsem i\nĠN eed\nĠAff airs\nĠob sc\nĠcheck ed\nĠd ual\nC ode\nĠM D\nle m\nult y\nĠ ©\nĠEl izabeth\nĠcent uries\nard ed\ns rc\nĠev ident\nenn is\nat in\nĠunemploy ment\nĠMar io\nĠint im\nCh rist\nĠbi ological\nĠsold ier\nĠAdd ed\nĠm ath\nĠG il\nĠbi as\nĠd ating\nĠO cean\nĠm ice\nM us\nh ire\nĠT es\nSer ver\nlim ited\nS ize\nĠmet ers\nĠrock et\nes see\nĠcertific ate\nĠIran ian\nAS S\nĠgr id\nD ec\nĠro lling\ncom mun\nĠSwed en\nb ury\nĠtiss ue\nĠrac ism\nĠL ocal\nĠmyster y\nĠexam ine\nĠst em\nĠs its\nĠhop ed\not ing\nĠdial ogue\nĠpers u\nW atch\nl ay\nM AN\nĠch ronic\nĠPort land\nmark et\nĠS EC\nĠparalle l\nĠsc andal\nĠcar ries\nĠphenomen on\nh uman\nack er\nĠO x\nĠretire ment\ntain ment\nov ie\nĠG ear\nĠd uties\nĠdo se\nĠsc roll\nM B\nin f\nĠsa uce\nĠland scape\nred dit\nĠChampions hip\nĠRed dit\nal id\nĠco in\nĠover s\nĠpost ing\nab out\nĠf el\nand y\nĠb old\nĠfocus ing\ne ffect\nG R\nĠde emed\nĠrecommend ations\nĠste pped\nĠvot er\nĠDe ep\nĠInst agram\nĠmoder ate\nĠMary land\nĠrestrict ed\nĠM B\nĠCh all\nĠto b\nĠc ir\nĠO cc\nĠE ver\nĠcoll aps\nIN FO\n= -\nĠP ict\nĠAcc ount\nn c\nĠo ught\nĠex port\nĠdr unk\n( '\nĠw ise\nĠM ort\nne cess\nĠan cest\nĠInc re\nĠfrequ ent\nm ir\nĠinterpret ation\nĠdepend ent\nĠco ins\nĠB ol\nV ideo\nĠJust in\nĠfat al\nĠcook ing\nĠconf usion\nip her\nĠcust ody\nĠMor gan\nom ach\nĠGovern or\nĠrestaur ants\nel ing\nĠacknowled ged\nĠthe r\nĠgen es\nch ing\nHe y\nĠtact ics\nĠMex ican\nĠv end\nĠhe s\nqu er\nĠnot ing\nĠCamer on\nĠtarget ing\nro ck\nĠcred its\nĠemot ions\nĠrepresent atives\nnew s\nĠlegisl ative\nĠrem oving\nĠtweet ed\nĠCar ter\nĠF ixed\nĠfor cing\nĠspeak er\nĠm ales\nĠViet nam\nl ined\nĠconcept s\nĠvo ices\no ir\nĠT rib\nW he\nĠJer usalem\nĠS ant\nĠc ul\nĠl ady\nĠHaw ai\nĠar ts\nĠIn n\nĠMach ine\nĠEm peror\nĠsl ot\ng ly\nĠPro cess\nII I\nĠathlet es\nĠTem ple\nĠRep resent\nĠpres c\nĠt ons\nĠgold en\nĠp unch\nĠG R\niver pool\nĠen act\nĠlob by\nĠm os\nĠpick ing\nĠlif etime\nĠcogn itive\nE ach\nz o\nĠd ub\nĠcons ists\nol n\nĠf estival\nam ous\nĠint ellig\nw ords\nĠSm art\nĠde le\nĠl apt\nĠmag ical\nĠS in\nb us\nur ities\nigh th\nĠRub y\nĠS ure\nol ving\nĠj un\nO ST\nĠimp osed\nĠast ron\nĠcor rel\nĠN S\nĠK it\nĠF uture\nb urn\nĠimm une\noc us\nĠcour ses\nĠSt ring\nĠle an\nĠg host\nĠout comes\nĠexp ense\nĠevery day\nĠaccept able\nA h\nĠequ ipped\nĠor ange\nF R\nĠD utch\nTh ough\nĠR ank\nQ U\nĠRober ts\nwh at\nre nd\nĠdisapp ear\nĠsp awn\nĠL am\no is\nĠdes erve\nĠmin imal\nĠnerv ous\nĠW ould\nĠro ok\nĠV ancouver\nĠres ign\nsh ire\nĠW orks\nĠB uild\nĠafford able\nĠG ary\nĠAren a\nĠh anging\nĠimpl ications\nĠS ong\nĠmain taining\nĠgu ards\nC ON\nĠder ived\nĠexecut ed\nĠthe ories\nĠqu oted\nĠAnd re\nog a\nsel ess\nin fo\nĠBel g\nĠt ears\nĠSur v\nĠbirth day\nig ious\nim mer\nĠspect rum\nĠarchitect ure\nĠrec ruit\narm a\nT able\nĠmon sters\nĠG ov\nĠdest ination\nĠattract ive\nĠf oss\nĠMore over\nĠpres ents\nTH E\nĠrep ly\npt on\nĠc um\nĠdel ight\nĠaffect s\nĠdon ations\nĠT oy\nĠH im\nM ENT\nĠover come\nit ched\nĠFant asy\nĠH at\nĠBe ast\nb ott\nĠinvestig ations\nR un\nĠhun ting\nd i\nf und\nĠs essions\nest yle\nĠport ray\noid s\nY eah\nĠcommun icate\nĠcom edy\nĠY ang\nĠbel t\nĠMar ine\nĠpredict ed\nPl ay\nĠimportant ly\nĠremark able\nĠelim inate\nD avid\nĠb ind\nV ID\nĠadvoc ates\nĠG aza\nim p\nD B\nĠN a\nĠSim ilar\nI ES\nĠchar ity\nv as\nm ath\nĠâ ĸ\nok er\nnd um\nĠcap s\nĠH al\n2 000\ne an\nĠfle et\nĠrec re\nR ight\nĠsleep ing\nij ing\nk ind\nĠdesign ated\nà ¤\nĠanim ation\nke e\nĠInt rodu\nĠ/ >\nĠdelay ed\nĠtrem end\nĠcur ious\nU se\nĠle ct\nd am\nĠinnov ation\nĠPoint s\nĠload ing\nĠdisp ute\nct ic\nird s\nĠB Y\nĠn urs\nĠVal ue\nION S\nĠH um\nĠtem plate\nm ers\nĠappear ances\nĠEnter tainment\nĠtransl ation\nĠsa ke\nĠbene ath\nĠin hib\nĠe uro\nabet es\nĠstud ying\nĠM as\nĠper ceived\nĠexam ined\nĠe ager\nĠco aches\nĠim per\nch i\nĠprodu ces\n\" ).\nĠEvery one\nĠm unicip\nĠg irlfriend\nĠh ire\nĠV ice\nĠsu itable\nop y\nĠin equ\nĠD uke\nf ish\nf irst\nĠO bs\nĠinter ior\nĠBru ce\nĠR y\nĠanal ys\nĠconsider able\nĠfore cast\nĠf ert\nors hip\nĠD rug\nĠA LL\n: \"\nth ur\nĠM ail\nĠball ot\nĠinst antly\nĠCh annel\nĠp icks\nĠ198 9\nĠt ent\nol i\nĠcivil ian\nb ling\nell o\nb u\nĠin ch\nĠlog o\nĠcooper ation\nĠwal ks\nĠinvest ments\nĠimp rison\nĠF estival\nĠK y\nĠleg ally\nĠg ri\nch arg\nS l\nĠthreat ening\ndu ction\nfl ow\nĠdismiss ed\nibr aries\nc ap\ne le\nĠMc G\nĠHar vard\nĠConserv ative\nĠC BS\np ng\nĠro ots\nĠH aving\numb led\nĠF un\n\\ /\nĠS earch\nple x\nĠdiscuss ing\nĠcontin u\nĠT ai\nĠW ik\nF ree\nf it\nĠref use\nĠmanag ing\nĠsy nd\nip edia\nw alk\nĠprofession als\nĠguid ance\nĠunivers ities\nĠas semb\nunt u\nF inally\nAS E\nĠAut o\nĠH ad\nĠann iversary\nL D\nĠD ur\nĠUlt imate\nih ad\npro duct\nĠtrans it\nĠrest ore\nĠexpl aining\nĠass et\nĠtransfer red\nĠbur st\nap olis\nĠMag azine\nĠC ra\nĠB R\ngg ed\nĠH E\nM ich\nb et\nĠL ady\nyl um\nerv es\nĠme ets\nwh ite\nL og\nĠcorrespond ing\nĠins isted\nG G\nĠsurround ed\nĠt ens\nĠl ane\nĠco inc\nh ome\nĠexist ed\nect ed\nĠDou ble\nlam m\nĠske pt\nex p\nĠper ception\nie v\nĠBe ing\no ft\nĠadop t\n. :\n] ;\nWind ows\nĠsatell ite\nAS H\nĠinf ant\nd escription\nĠMe anwhile\nc m\noc a\nĠT reat\nact or\nĠtob acco\nĠN orm\nem ption\nĠfl esh\nĠj e\no op\nĠHe aven\nĠbe ating\nan im\nĠgather ing\nĠcult iv\nG O\nab e\nĠJon athan\nĠSaf ety\nĠbad ly\npro t\nĠcho osing\nĠcontact ed\nĠqu it\nĠdist ur\nĠst ir\nĠto ken\nD et\nĠP a\nĠfunction ality\n00 3\ns ome\nĠlimit ations\nĠmet h\nb uild\ncon fig\nN T\nre ll\nble m\nĠM om\nĠveter ans\nĠH u\nĠtrend s\nare r\nĠG iven\nĠCa ption\nm ay\nAS T\nĠwond ering\nĠCl ark\nn ormal\nĠsepar ated\nĠdes p\nst ic\nb rew\nĠrel ating\nĠN ik\nĠF arm\nĠenthus i\ng ood\nd eb\nĠactiv ist\nĠm art\nĠexplos ion\nĠEconom ic\nL ink\nĠins ight\nĠconven ient\nĠcounter part\nsu pport\nĠV irt\nag en\nĠTenn essee\nĠSim on\nĠA ward\nOC K\nĠF igure\nĠoverse as\nĠpr ide\nĠC as\nn ote\nm g\nC urrent\nĠdispl ays\ncont ent\nĠtravel ing\nĠhosp itals\nĠFin ancial\nĠP ast\nĠdefend ant\nĠstream ing\nm ble\nĠBer lin\nuk i\nĠdist ribut\nĠant ib\nĠch ocolate\nĠCast le\nĠinter rupt\nĠR ow\nĠconvers ion\nĠbug s\nĠR ather\nli est\nL Y\nĠJe an\ncom mon\nak h\nĠ1 30\not ton\nĠDe an\nĠam endment\nĠgame play\nĠWar ren\nod a\nĠhigh lights\nĠir re\nĠNAT O\nĠball s\nĠdemand ing\nU RE\nĠL uke\nF igure\nst op\non ia\nz one\niz ers\nĠW R\nĠaward ed\nĠregul atory\nĠH art\nĠS N\npl ing\nĠs our\nĠP ixel\nus ive\nĠf et\nĠS ent\nĠautom atic\nĠf er\nvern ment\nĠKh an\nT ON\nf ather\nĠextraord inary\nth rop\nĠP ython\nĠG PU\nĠsex ually\nĠdesk top\nit ivity\nĠAnton io\nĠo rient\nĠe ars\nob by\nous es\nvertis ements\nĠmanufacture rs\nic ient\nmin ute\nĠconv iction\nĠg arden\np ublic\nĠsatisf ied\nf old\nO K\nĠin hab\nĠTh ink\nĠprogram me\nĠst omach\nĠcoord in\nĠh oly\nĠth reshold\nĠr het\nĠser ial\nĠemploy ers\nĠEvery thing\nra h\nĠb other\nĠbr ands\nVal ue\nĠT ed\nĠPlan et\nĠp ink\nĠFurther more\ns a\nP E\nre ck\nĠUS D\not te\nĠ& &\nĠland ed\ng ets\nĠprodu cers\nĠhealth care\nĠdomin ant\nĠdest ro\nĠam ended\nch ron\nĠf its\nĠSy d\nĠAuthor ity\nAT CH\nĠfight s\nĠL LC\nĠ-- -\nĠCor p\nĠtox ic\nspe cific\nĠC orn\nĠChe l\nĠtele phone\nĠP ant\nĠmyster ious\naun ch\nod ox\nmed ia\nĠwitness es\nag u\nĠquestion ed\nĠBre xit\nĠRem ember\nene z\nĠend orse\niat ric\nĠId ent\nĠridic ulous\n1 10\nĠpr ayer\nĠscient ist\nĠ19 50\nĠA qu\nĠunder ground\nĠU FC\nm are\nĠL ater\nw ich\nĠsubsc rib\nĠhost s\nĠer r\nĠgr ants\nant om\nĠsum mon\near ly\nĠC lear\nĠPr im\nĠsusp ension\nĠguarant eed\napp er\nĠr ice\nĠSe an\nĠSh in\nĠrefere ndum\nĠfl ed\nr ust\nĠ3 60\nter y\nĠsh ocked\nB R\nĠO il\nĠAll ah\nĠpart ly\nĠign or\nĠtrans mission\nĠhom osexual\nivers al\nĠhop efully\nãĤ ¤\nĠless on\nL eg\nĠ ..\nY et\nt able\napp ropri\nre tt\nĠbo ards\nĠincor rect\nĠb acteria\nar u\nam ac\nĠsn ap\n.' \"\nĠpar ad\nt em\nhe art\nĠav ailability\nĠw isdom\nĠ( +\nĠpri est\nĠÂł ĠÂł\nO pen\nĠsp an\nĠparam eter\nĠconv ince\nĠ( %)\nr ac\nĠf o\nĠsafe ly\nĠconver ted\nĠOlymp ic\nĠres erve\nĠhe aling\nĠM ine\nM ax\nĠin herent\nĠGra ham\nĠinteg rated\nD em\nĠpip eline\nĠapp lying\nĠem bed\nĠCharl ie\nĠc ave\n200 8\nĠcons ensus\nĠre wards\nP al\nĠHT ML\nĠpopular ity\nlook ing\nĠSw ord\nĠAr ts\n' )\nĠelect ron\nclus ions\nĠinteg rity\nĠexclus ively\nĠgr ace\nĠtort ure\nĠburn ed\ntw o\nĠ18 0\nP rodu\nĠent reprene\nraph ics\nĠg ym\nric ane\nĠT am\nĠadministr ative\nĠmanufacture r\nĠ vel\nĠN i\nĠisol ated\nĠMedic ine\nĠback up\nĠpromot ing\nĠcommand er\nĠfle e\nĠRus sell\nĠforg otten\nĠMiss ouri\nĠres idence\nm ons\nĠrese mb\nĠw and\nĠmeaning ful\nP T\nĠb ol\nĠhe lic\nĠwealth y\nĠr ifle\nstr ong\nrow ing\npl an\nas ury\nâĢ¦ .\nĠexpand ing\nĠHam ilton\nĠrece ives\nS I\neat ures\nĠAn im\nRE E\nP ut\nĠbrief ly\nri ve\nĠstim ul\nĠ`` (\nĠ __\nĠch ip\nĠha z\nĠpri ze\nĠTh ings\nAC E\nul in\nd ict\nok u\nĠassoci ate\nock ets\ny outube\nSt ory\nateg ory\nĠm ild\nail ing\nĠY e\nO rig\nĠK a\nor ig\nĠpropag anda\nĠan onymous\nĠstrugg led\nĠout rage\nAT ED\nĠBe ijing\nr ary\nĠle ather\nĠworld s\nĠbroad er\n12 5\nid al\nĠBet ter\nĠt ear\nE xt\nĠpropos als\nĠit er\nĠSqu ad\nĠvol unt\nm i\nD id\nĠP u\np in\nĠspeak ers\nĠb orders\nĠfig ured\n= '\nĠsimultane ously\naed a\nĠcharg ing\nĠur ged\nĠcon j\n25 6\nĠG ordon\nmer ce\nĠdocument ary\nSh are\nit ol\nON E\nĠG arden\nh att\nĠThom pson\nane ous\nap ore\nĠt anks\nĠless ons\ntr ack\nĠout standing\nĠvolunte ers\nĠsp ray\nĠmanag ers\nl arge\nĠcamp s\nĠart ificial\nĠR u\nĠb ags\nth al\nĠcompat ible\nĠBl ade\nĠf ed\nĠarg ues\nF I\nĠunf air\nĠcor n\nĠoff set\nĠdirect ions\nĠdisappoint ed\nĠCon vention\nĠview ing\nM E\noc ity\nĠtown s\nĠlay ers\nĠro lled\nĠjump ed\nĠatt ribute\nĠun necess\ninc oln\nĠsupp ose\nĠNet her\nch a\nĠbur ied\nĠsix th\nB en\nress ing\nOU R\nĠw ound\nĠcy cl\nĠmechan isms\nĠcongress ional\nĠE lement\nĠagre ements\nĠdec or\nĠclos est\nĠM it\nGo ogle\n} }\nĠm ixture\nĠflu id\nS ign\nĠSch olar\nĠp ist\nask et\nab ling\nĠrac ing\nhe ro\nri el\nass y\nĠche aper\nb en\nĠvert ical\namac are\nĠRead ing\ng ments\nĠhelic op\nĠsacr ifice\nay a\np aren\nV A\nĠL es\nĠStud io\nĠviol ations\nĠAn na\nac er\né ¾\nĠR at\nĠBe ck\nĠD ick\nĠA CT\nĠcomp osition\nĠtext ure\nĠO wn\nĠsmart phone\nĠN A\nĠfor b\nim port\nĠdef ending\nil st\nre r\nĠo h\nĠJere my\nĠbank ing\ncept ions\nĠrespect ive\n/ .\nĠdr inks\nĠW i\nĠb ands\nĠL iverpool\nĠg rip\nĠB uy\nĠopen ly\nĠreview ed\nper t\nĠver ify\nĠCo le\nĠW ales\nM O\nĠun pre\nĠshel ter\nĠIm perial\nĠgu i\nĠD ak\nĠsuggest ions\nĠexplicit ly\nĠsl ave\nĠblock chain\nĠcompet ing\nĠprom ising\nS ON\nĠsoc cer\nĠconst itution\n4 29\nĠdist ract\nĠU ser\nes ides\nĠMet hod\nĠTok yo\nĠaccompan ied\nCl ient\ns ur\nal og\nĠident ification\nĠinv asion\nas ma\nĠindust ries\npp ers\nĠsub tle\nĠUn it\nn atural\nĠsurv ived\nĠfl aw\nĺ ħ\nĠH oll\nĠdef icit\nĠtut orial\nĠCh ance\nĠarg uing\nĠcontem porary\nĠinteg ration\nfor ward\nĠt um\nit is\nĠh iding\nĠD omin\nĠT an\nĠB uilding\nĠV in\nĠspokes person\nĠNot es\nĠemer ging\nĠprepar ation\nĠpro st\nĠsuspect s\nĠaut onom\nD escription\nĠdeal t\nĠP ear\nĠstead y\nĠdecre ased\nĠso vere\nĠCl in\nĠgrad ually\nors es\nĠW AR\nS erv\nãĤ ¢\nh r\nĠd irty\nĠB arn\nĠB C\nĠd il\nĠcal endar\nĠcompl iance\nĠch amber\nb b\nĠpass enger\nate ful\nĠT itle\nĠSyd ney\nĠG ot\nĠdark ness\nĠdef ect\nĠpack ed\nass ion\nĠgod s\nĠh arsh\nIC K\nle ans\nĠalgorith m\nĠoxy gen\nĠvis its\nĠbl ade\nĠkil omet\nĠKent ucky\nĠkill er\nP ack\nenn y\nĠdiv ine\nĠnom ination\nbe ing\nĠeng ines\nĠc ats\nĠbuff er\nĠPh ill\nĠtra ff\nAG E\nĠtong ue\nĠrad iation\nere r\nm em\nĠExpl icit\né¾ į\nĠcou ples\nĠphys ics\nĠMc K\nĠpolit ically\naw ks\nĠBl oom\nĠwor ship\ne ger\nut er\nĠF O\nĠmat hemat\nĠsent enced\nĠdis k\nĠM arg\nĠ/ *\nP I\nĠoption al\nĠbab ies\nĠse eds\nĠScott ish\nĠth y\n] ]\nĠHit ler\nP H\nng th\nĠrec overed\ning e\nĠpow der\nĠl ips\nĠdesign er\nĠdis orders\nĠcour age\nĠch aos\n\" },{\"\nĠcar rier\nb ably\nH igh\nĠR T\nes ity\nl en\nĠrout es\nu ating\nF il\nN OT\nw all\ns burgh\nĠeng aging\nĠJava Script\nore r\nli hood\nĠun ions\nĠF ederation\nĠTes la\nĠcomple tion\nĠT a\nĠprivile ge\nĠOr ange\nĠne ur\nparen cy\nĠb ones\nĠtit led\nĠprosecut ors\nĠM E\nĠengine er\nĠUn iverse\nĠH ig\nn ie\no ard\nĠheart s\nĠG re\nuss ion\nĠmin istry\nĠpen et\nĠN ut\nĠO w\nĠX P\nin stein\nĠbul k\nS ystem\nic ism\nĠMarket able\nĠpre val\nĠpost er\nĠatt ending\nur able\nĠlicens ed\nĠG h\net ry\nĠTrad able\nĠbl ast\nà ¤\nĠTit an\nell ed\nd ie\nH ave\nĠFl ame\nĠprof ound\nĠparticip ating\nĠan ime\nĠE ss\nĠspec ify\nĠregard ed\nĠSpe ll\nĠs ons\nown ed\nĠm erc\nĠexper imental\nland o\nh s\nĠDun geon\nin os\nĠcomp ly\nĠSystem s\nar th\nĠse ized\nl ocal\nĠGirl s\nud o\non ed\nĠF le\nĠconstruct ed\nĠhost ed\nĠsc ared\nact ic\nĠIs lands\nĠM ORE\nĠbl ess\nĠblock ing\nĠch ips\nĠev ac\nP s\nĠcorpor ation\nĠo x\nĠlight ing\nĠneighb ors\nĠU b\nar o\nĠbe ef\nĠU ber\nF acebook\nar med\nit ate\nĠR ating\nĠQu ick\nĠoccup ied\nĠaim s\nĠAdd itionally\nĠInt erest\nĠdram atically\nĠhe al\nĠpain ting\nĠengine ers\nM M\nĠM ust\nĠquant ity\nP aul\nĠearn ings\nĠPost s\nst ra\nãĥ¼ ãĥ\nĠst ance\nĠdro pping\nsc ript\nĠd ressed\nM ake\nĠjust ify\nĠL td\nĠprompt ed\nĠscr ut\nĠspeed s\nĠGi ants\nom er\nĠEd itor\nĠdescrib ing\nĠL ie\nment ed\nĠnow here\noc aly\nĠinst ruction\nfort able\nĠent ities\nĠc m\nĠN atural\nĠinqu iry\nĠpress ed\niz ont\nfor ced\nĠra ises\nĠNet flix\nĠS ide\nĠout er\nĠamong st\nim s\nows ki\nĠclim b\nne ver\nĠcomb ine\nd ing\nĠcomp r\nĠsignific ance\nĠremem bered\nĠNev ada\nĠT el\nĠSc ar\nĠWar riors\nĠJ ane\nĠcou p\nb as\nĠtermin al\n, -\nO H\nĠt ension\nĠw ings\nĠMy ster\n�� ��\nĠUn like\nval id\nviron ments\nĠAl i\nĠn aked\nbook s\nĠM un\nĠG ulf\nĠd ensity\nĠdim in\nĠdesper ate\nĠpres idency\nĠ198 6\nh y\nIN D\nĠun lock\nim ens\nĠhand led\nĠE b\nĠdisapp eared\nĠgen re\nĠ198 8\nĠdetermin ation\nSt ream\nik o\nap ters\nĠacknow ledge\nJ an\nĠcapital ism\nP at\nĠ20 20\nĠpain ful\nĠcur ve\nĠbom bs\nst orm\nĠMet al\nen cer\nĠF ig\nĠA aron\nanc hes\nĠins piration\nĠexha ust\nt ains\nash i\nĠdesc ript\nĠr itual\nĠChel sea\nĠpromot ion\nĠH ung\nĠW ard\niv a\nĠE T\nĠto ss\nall ow\nĠFranc is\nD ep\nĠhapp iness\nĠGl ass\nĠbet a\nĠstreng then\nN E\no a\nĠbutt ons\nĠMur ray\nĠkick ed\nQu est\nĠT alk\nĠS everal\nĠZ ero\nĠdr one\nul k\nĠc am\nĠM obile\nĠprevent ing\nĠret ro\nĠA x\nĠcru el\nĠflo at\n. ),\nĠfil ing\nĠGr ant\nĠB or\nĠr ib\nĠchampions hip\nĠM erc\nĠsty les\nĠc ake\nĠbuild s\nĠS elf\nio x\nĠep ic\noy d\nB el\nĠSt ew\n. (\nah u\nĠBe yond\nĠout s\nĠsol o\nĠT ree\nĠpres erve\nĠt ub\nAR E\nro c\nĠIm pro\nĠW right\nĠbu nd\nĠtr aged\nĠoccas ional\nb ian\nSec ond\nr ons\nĠinter actions\nform ed\ns ing\nĠown s\nĠh ockey\nGener al\nĠlog ical\nĠexp end\nĠesc al\nĠGr iff\nĠC rown\nĠRes erve\nĠsto pping\nĠexc use\nsec ond\nĠoper ated\nĠre aches\nĠMal ays\nĠpoll ution\nĠBrook lyn\nĠde lete\nĠhas h\nBl ock\nah a\nâĢ ³\nĠsh orter\np iece\n> </\nĠh orm\nĠW at\nĠBre ak\nĠprohib ited\nĠint ensity\nĠAl an\nĠli ability\n? !\nand ed\nĠneigh bour\nĠCol lection\nĠf ires\nĠrevolution ary\nf ly\nĠOr leans\nWh ite\nĠW rit\nĠD awn\nĠsett le\nĠexec ute\nB M\nĠspokes woman\nĠlif estyle\nĠclick ing\nĠK ill\nĠLiber al\nĠN azi\nĠtra iler\nĠmount ains\nĠdam n\nz es\np es\nĠpress ing\nĠb ail\nĠOrgan ization\nĠp ir\nĠth irty\nĠelect rical\nĠ1 15\nĠP oly\nĠR ap\nĠSt rike\nĠC ann\nĠdemand ed\nĠback ing\ndef ault\nspe ed\nĠLeg isl\nĠmother s\nĠB ody\nĠvar iation\nced ented\np owered\nle ading\nN ever\nĠg rave\nĠAnt i\nA W\nĠinterview ed\nĠG ab\nĠF at\nĠrook ie\nu u\nĠdep os\nix on\nĠam pl\nret ion\nĠHe at\nĠpeace ful\nS M\nie ve\nĠd iver\nĠVict oria\nĠm ic\np df\nĠst ating\nĠl ung\nĠcritic ized\nĠvacc ine\nĠLoad ing\nur se\nT ake\nĠFr an\nĠS old\nĠRob in\nĠdetect ed\nĠSc ript\nĠadjust ed\nĠsen ator\nĠopp osing\nEr ror\nC ount\nĠconflic ts\nĠo w\nĠAr gent\nĠmatch ing\nh h\nĠTre k\nst arter\n\" ),\nĠA F\nod er\nxx xx\nĠAl t\nac re\nĠP ick\nĠSol ar\nĠD al\nO ct\nĠB att\nĠs rc\nĠeng agement\nĠexecut ives\nĠliber ty\nj ava\nĠtal ented\nigen ous\nĠcon secut\n.. ...\nIn fo\nĠhor rible\nĠsurprising ly\nf eed\nic ating\nĠL ED\nĠfem ales\nSt ation\nell er\nĠOak land\nĠmechan ical\ni ology\nĠV ar\nĠrob ust\nett ings\nott a\nĠthe oret\nĠret ain\nk ward\nĠd a\nĠdeploy ed\nd el\nĠAnd y\nĠsubsc ribe\nwe b\nĠn a\nĠMic hel\nĠpart ially\nĠCome y\nĠc rown\nĠM aj\nĠBl u\nr ator\nD ay\nIN T\nĠdocument ed\nĠG DP\ng i\nche ll\nĠbrut al\nĠB ab\nst ration\nĠthe ft\nĠt ube\n@ @\nĠqu ery\nĠL incoln\nĠpublish ing\nĠw ore\nor ical\nĠr ic\nĠnot able\nĠsubsequ ently\nne x\nĠobser ve\nĠB oe\nĠc odes\nm ain\nW H\nĠS L\nĠresident ial\nav an\nĠm as\nare st\nade on\nOU T\nĠsoph istic\nant e\nĠc ens\nĠ **\nĠmort ality\nĠyour s\nĠoccas ions\nĠrec alled\nĠDri ver\nĠv ocal\nĠbath room\nĠsh ops\nĠcollabor ation\nĠOb amacare\nĠC ell\nCh ar\nSu per\nC re\nĠt ends\nĠt orn\nĠeconom ics\na very\nĠR aid\nĠS em\nĠshould ers\nĠexpect ing\nĠexam ination\nen ame\nĠU I\ni ability\nol as\nĠAm b\nĠD ra\nĠmid field\nĠI C\nĠlay out\nĠflo ating\nf i\nit ative\nĠtremend ous\nĠ Ð\nĠab und\nW ork\nĠLight ning\nĠsimilar ly\nĠconserv atives\nĠpr ay\nB E\niz arre\nĠt empt\nĠemphas is\nĠMet ro\nĠf ishing\nĠmar ry\nne g\nĠStud y\nĠrec k\nĠdis pos\non ing\nbs ite\nĠsusp ic\nĠmer ch\nĠG ib\nĠDes cription\nĠD VD\nw he\nĠY emen\nĠen vironments\noot ing\nĠMod ern\ne u\nĠreflect s\nĠh oney\nĠanaly st\nĠg ut\nd ec\nA ction\nĠhousehold s\nĠst er\nĠtem ple\nĠreform s\nĠfavour ite\nĠdead line\nĠL E\nTh ree\nĠWith in\nA ug\nĠnight s\nelt a\nĠinv alid\nĠEx change\nĠDel hi\nw hen\ninc ome\nĠ ðŁ\nĠwire less\nsc ribe\nist a\nĠhost ile\nĠall y\nĠg ig\nĠout lets\nĠD or\nEM ENT\nĠas h\nĠab stract\nOR D\nĠMot or\nĠadv iser\nist le\nĠb ases\nĠcourt esy\nĠcross ing\nĠcle ared\nĠrefuge e\ncos ystem\nĠthrow s\nf un\nbour ne\nd ays\nĠdisag ree\nĠN ative\nĠreflect ed\nĠF ast\nĠY ellow\nĠSing apore\nĠR aven\nĠembr ace\nĠK u\nĠC hen\nĠEar ly\nĠappoint ment\nĠMin i\nit ement\nĠpl acing\nĠb icy\nS R\nĠwh is\nS U\nĠinvestig ated\nĠphotograph s\ng ithub\nĠBe at\nĠR ing\nig hed\ni ar\nĠev olved\neral d\nĠd un\nĠh ub\nI AL\nĠencour aging\nĠPr int\nĠD ays\nĠpro secution\nĠp ants\naz y\nl ive\nĠfoss il\nĠJ u\nĠro cks\nud ge\nĠR ace\nĠg reet\nb ie\nĠf illing\nĠL en\nĠdi abetes\nĠfire arms\num ing\nenez uel\nĠB B\nĠaccept ing\nAT H\nĠres ort\nĠh unt\nri k\nuck er\nam ents\nĠsust ained\nĠcross ed\nĠbreak fast\nĠatt ributes\nlect ed\nat ile\nĠv ibr\nĠK al\nars on\nop les\nĠtou ched\nĠdam ages\nĠimp ressed\nru p\nĠan ch\nĠAd ams\nH el\nĠVict or\nĠmount ed\nĠC C\nĠdelic ious\nsp an\nell a\nĠel abor\nam ples\nĠdef ic\nĠconstit u\nu ates\nĠM ission\nĠT her\nĠMon ster\nb es\nRe uters\nĠInd ones\nh ill\nmun ition\nĠconfirm ation\nĠCons ider\nac ent\nĠj et\nĠEm ploy\nĠGT X\nn an\nĠSp ider\nĠprocess or\nĠpat ri\nĠPent agon\nĠRob inson\nĠreal istic\nà ±\nĠappear ing\nĠp ipe\nom ed\nĠf ru\nĠaw ful\nĠeval uation\nĠintellig ent\nĠC itiz\nĠfund ra\nod ium\nĠtwe ets\nĠwor n\npr ing\nĠkid n\nĠreb els\nĠK am\nĠNether lands\nĠS W\nĠacqu isition\nĠM ale\nãĥ ª\nomb ies\nĠtrad em\nĠStat us\nB re\nĠTH IS\nĠad verse\nĠN EW\ns ign\nĠorgan isation\nen c\nĠHar per\nap or\nĠMem bers\nĠPe ace\nĠAir port\nĠOther s\nĠscr atch\nĠP il\nĠsens or\nĠadop tion\nĠHot el\nĠDr ag\nĠhonest ly\nĠy ard\nĠFor ces\nĠpat ent\nĠb ass\nĠquiet ly\nĠbreat hing\nĠp ose\ni ors\nĠJ ess\nst atic\nIT E\nO ffic\nĠj ew\nw cs\nĠ14 0\nĠpre view\nipp i\nĠunf ortunately\noke mon\nĠh orn\nĠre ass\nĠpe er\nock er\nĠunt o\nĠGr ay\nĠclean ing\nĠattract ed\n200 7\nP oint\nk ill\nĠAg reement\nur ches\nĠhor r\nĠMiss iss\nĠworth y\nĠfl owers\nt own\nd ll\nĠre actions\nĠde ce\nĠindic ating\nM D\nĠpre ference\nĠM VP\ness ional\nĠT arget\ng ence\nĠInd ians\nĠm isc\nĠfree ly\nĠmus cles\nĠline up\nĠimpact s\nous ing\nom i\nac ular\nĠcontro lling\nag ine\nc ery\nhe ll\nĠrank ing\nĠN ich\nĠA ve\n12 8\nĠhigh way\nĠinc ons\nĠb inding\nĠstrugg les\nĠPitt sburgh\nĠgr ay\nr in\nĠcom ics\nĠS port\nĠrel atives\nĠfr ight\nĠpro be\nĠPort ug\nĠv oc\nĠt u\nĠCor ps\nĠposs ibilities\nĠqual ify\nwcs store\nĠl ibraries\nĠm igrants\nĠent ries\nĠconsecut ive\nv als\nĠChair man\nĠh ill\nIM E\nĠG ard\nĠinequ ality\nf ox\nĠS ave\nĠc ort\nclaim ed\nĠtra its\nĠp our\nĠmiss iles\nĠess ence\nĠs ends\nĠall iance\nĠw ishes\nĠChrist opher\nB ig\nN Y\nĠJac ob\ns an\nur red\nĠS O\nll y\nĠadvoc ate\nĠB ond\nĠ\" /\nUs ing\nĠdistrict s\nĠG ate\nĠB ir\nr idge\nĠN az\nĠR s\nbo ards\nĠG a\nĠRe agan\nĠinflu enced\n1 000\nap y\nĠchalleng ed\nĠb arg\nĠfac ulty\nĠF if\nĠacqu ire\nA c\nĠin sect\nĠinstr uments\nĠle af\nth odox\nM essage\nĠt ale\nĠthere by\nĠtra p\nĠstrong est\nĠMil itary\nis ible\nĠ198 4\nethe less\nĠflex ible\nĠkill s\nĠfin ishing\nĠS ize\nĠredu ces\nĠep id\nĠorient ation\nf ull\nĠtr ace\nĠl aser\nĠopp ose\nĠed iting\nĠmoment um\nä º\nsh ow\nV I\nĠL ad\nĠ198 5\nĠmurd ered\n9 00\nut her\nĠprob ability\nĠP oll\nĠrel uct\nĠChe m\nĠMont real\nĠadequ ate\nĠPol and\nĠSher iff\num ph\nĠo k\nĠ 000\nĠ\" [\nĠoper ators\nĠF er\nĠmod es\nĠE ve\nĠdiscipl ine\nN ET\nH and\nĠor al\nĠW E\nem ail\nJ P\nĠPalestin ians\nĠhe nce\nĠL ess\nĠover l\nd ig\nĠintim id\nĠCo al\nĠr anging\nth a\nĠdist ant\nĠf ib\nĠInd ex\nĠW onder\nĠP el\nhatt an\nĠH ug\nà Ĺ\nra it\nĠwra pped\nĠR PG\nĠchemical s\nĠM oney\nĠfro zen\nĠind irect\nĠAgain st\nE nd\nĠuncom fortable\nĠGall ery\nĠPost ed\nØ §\nond uct\nĠconsequ ence\nĠbit ter\nĠ198 7\np op\nĠcount less\nĠAl aska\nff ff\nĠdepart ure\nĠref und\nĠI an\ni ated\nĠsee ks\nĠmechan ics\nĠjurisd iction\nlyn n\nĠal ike\nĠH unt\nath on\nĠres olved\nĠc ache\nĠdist inction\nd irect\nĠenc ount\nou b\nbe at\nĠCount ry\nse arch\nĠcontin uous\nĠmod est\nĠR ail\nth ood\n1 30\nB UG\nĠcrim inals\nĠindic ation\nĠencount ered\nl ast\nĠW y\nĠide ology\nĠP DF\nsec urity\n] )\nĠJim my\nĠE N\nĠh iring\nT em\nĠp ig\naun t\nĠCry stal\nĠpen alties\nĠcap ability\nĠp y\nĠproduct ive\nĠbal anced\nĠGe Force\ncl ick\nolit an\nod s\nĠafter wards\nĠplay offs\nĠG ill\nU ser\nĠback s\np ub\nt ag\nĠabs urd\np iring\nĠc iting\nĠtr illion\nĠoblig ation\nĠmax im\nah oo\nc f\num i\nĠAl pha\nĠN elson\nĠpursu ant\nin itely\nĠf ract\nent ry\nber y\nĠTh or\nAdd ed\nĠD J\nĠG ene\nĠaw kward\nSt ud\nĠwal let\nĠDiv ine\nari os\nĠrele asing\nĠed ited\nĠaccompl ished\nB est\nĠed ges\nĠplan es\nĠfeed ing\n\" },\"\nĠdiscl osure\nĠgr ain\nair y\no ons\nern and\nV R\nĠreason ably\nĠdr um\nĠpart ial\nĠgraph ic\nĠunpre cedented\nĠadv ised\nM icro\nĠAss ad\npoint s\nsc ar\nĠZ one\ntt es\nĠ7 00\nv o\nĠH amp\nĠfix es\nĠca ution\nĠstr ings\nĠpan els\nĠle ak\nĠpr icing\nrow th\nĠEr ror\nĠS aints\nf ix\nĠobserv ations\nĠA bs\nĠsuggest ion\nĠUkrain ian\nĠbar rier\nĠpain ted\nB et\nim ir\nĠS pect\np ot\norne ys\nĠcomp ound\nĠbe ars\nĠR ush\nĠlux ury\nS um\nĠor bit\nĠMar c\nĠex empt\nĠTra il\nĠM O\nĠH ans\nĠWe apon\noc used\numin um\nĠJer ry\nĠb ust\nĠA G\nĠW iki\nĠend less\nĠV lad\nĠB ah\nĠR adeon\nke ys\nĠSur vey\nĠV iol\ndef ine\nle an\nĠcomm od\nĠreven ues\nÅ į\nĠfurn iture\nĠcast ing\nĠdiplom atic\nĠPlay ers\nĠK illed\nĠmod ify\nĠinnov ative\nĠAb u\nn or\nĠbond s\nĠcoach ing\nM er\nĠmod ules\nĠPatri ots\nĠenh anced\nĠproceed ings\nĠteam mates\nĠ12 8\nard o\nĠcomprom ise\nĠM uch\nĠfle w\nĠEd ge\nĠunnecess ary\nĠdoct rine\nre port\nĠOr lando\nĠProf ile\nĠplay off\nfriend ly\nĠcompl ain\nĠM C\nĠO pt\nĠG B\nĠbeat en\nĠg olf\nĠpl acement\nB it\nĠnews letter\nĠ201 9\nvis or\nraw l\nĠiP ad\nĠact ed\nĠju ice\nĠdec ks\nP N\nsu ccess\nĠH alf\nĠdele ted\nĠsec rets\nĠas ylum\nM art\nĠAct iv\nĠGu y\nĠT s\nĠd ys\nĠassum ing\nĠman a\nĠsub ur\nĠ12 5\nM edia\nAR Y\nr ide\nc p\nĠdifficult ies\nĠcollect ing\nĠbank rupt\nn on\nĠcomp osed\nĠvol t\nĠmilit ants\nĠ> >>\nĠM ormon\nt or\nĠpartic les\nĠB art\nry ption\nĠad min\nĠsqu ee\nVID IA\nĠcreat or\niam eter\nic ular\nN BC\nĠgrab bed\nĠn odd\nĠr ated\nĠrot ation\nĠgr asp\nĠexcess ive\nĠE C\nĠWh it\nĠinvent ory\nault s\nĠF B\nĠe cosystem\nĠbill ions\nĠvent ure\nn amed\nĠdef ender\nout e\nInst ead\nir able\nW ar\nĠassum ption\nĠb ite\nĠearth qu\nt ail\nsp ace\nĠgif ts\nboy s\nĠinev itable\nĠstruct ural\nĠbenef icial\nĠcompe lling\nh ole\nerv ation\nĠco at\no j\ninc arn\nĠY ears\nĠdetermin ing\nĠrhet oric\nĠbound aries\nĠwh ites\nA nt\nadd y\n) -\nra ham\neter min\nĠhar vest\nĠCon c\nĠlapt op\nĠM atch\nĠenjoy ing\ncc a\noll ar\nĠtri ps\nĠadd iction\nĠS ak\nĠpow ered\nĠc ous\nĠRuss ians\nie re\nĠret rie\nqu ality\nĠdiff er\nĠking dom\nĠL aur\nĠCap itol\nĠcon clusions\nĠAl tern\nĠN av\nĠtrans parent\nB ER\nG roup\nĠCom plete\nĠinf er\nĠint rig\nĠins ane\nR O\noph ob\nis en\nqu al\nMich ael\nĠm useum\nĠP ope\nĠres et\nr ative\nf ive\nĠagg reg\nitte es\nosit ory\nĠcar b\nĠRec ord\nĠdec ides\nĠF ix\nĠexcept ions\nĠCommission er\nun s\nĠEnvironment al\nĠlegend ary\nist ence\nĠtun nel\nk m\nĠins ult\nĠt roll\nĠsh ake\nĠdet ention\nqu es\nĠCh rome\nĠF iles\nĠsub t\nĠprospect s\nĠpro l\nre nder\npro of\nĠperform ances\nSt r\nĠh ref\nern ame\nĠachieve ment\nĠf ut\nF ull\nĠLe ban\ngo ogle\nãĥ Ī\namp a\nMay be\nĠproject ed\nĠE mb\nĠcol leg\nĠa wards\nĠâ Ķ\nG old\nĠBl ake\nĠR aj\nif ting\nĠp ending\nĠinst inct\nĠdevelop ments\nCon nect\nĠM and\nĠW ITH\nĠPhilipp ines\nprof ile\nĠalt ogether\nĠB und\nĠT D\noo oo\namp ed\nip h\nĠste am\nĠold est\nĠdet ection\nul pt\nĠ ç\nĠWay ne\n200 6\nf a\nĠcir cles\nĠF u\nĠdon ors\nappropri ate\nĠDak ota\nj amin\nĠmotiv ated\nĠpurch ases\nĠLouis iana\nĠS pl\nĠgl obe\nĠ10 5\nz ip\nc all\nĠdepart ments\nĠsustain able\n10 5\nĠO P\nif iers\nĠprevent ed\nĠinc omp\nĠComm ander\nĠdom inated\nĠ »\nĠinvest ed\nĠcomplex ity\nĠin cl\nĠens uring\nĠreal m\nyn c\nĠInd ependent\nr ained\nĠJ en\nĠFl ight\nĠat he\nĠspec ulation\nĠT E\noc ate\nt ic\nĠpl aint\nher ry\nĠto y\nĠ1 11\nĠpl ates\nst atus\nĠIs a\nĠdev oted\nC op\nĠE S\n25 5\nur rency\nM ain\nĠsl aves\nĠpe pper\nĠqu otes\nĠce iling\nĠF ish\nĠtrans formation\nĠfra ction\nĠadvant ages\nĠto ile\nĠstun ning\nĠmo ist\nbre aking\ns i\nĠL ocation\nĠMed ium\nĠtext s\nĠu gly\nĠb io\n. âĢĶ\nĠB ased\nĠtr ains\nĠW ing\nĠAn cient\nĠRec ords\nĠH ope\nSpe cial\nades h\nob i\n[ /\nĠtempor arily\nV er\nh u\nos er\nĠover night\nĠm amm\nĠTre asury\nĠV enezuel\nĠMeg a\nĠt ar\nĠexpect s\nbl ack\nor ph\n\\\\ \\\\\nĠaccept ance\nĠrad ar\ns is\nĠjun ior\nĠfram es\nĠobserv ation\nac ies\nP ower\nĠAdv anced\nM ag\nolog ically\nĠMe chan\nĠsent ences\nĠanaly sts\naugh ters\nforce ment\nĠv ague\nĠcl ause\nĠdirect ors\nĠeval uate\nĠcabin et\nM att\nĠClass ic\nA ng\nĠcl er\nĠB uck\nĠresear cher\nĠ16 0\nĠpoor ly\nĠexperien cing\nĠP ed\nĠMan hattan\nĠfre ed\nĠthem es\nad vant\nĠn in\nĠpra ise\n10 4\nĠLib ya\nb est\nĠtrust ed\nĠce ase\nĠd ign\nD irect\nĠbomb ing\nĠm igration\nĠSci ences\nĠmunicip al\nĠA verage\nĠgl ory\nĠreve aling\nĠare na\nĠuncertain ty\nĠbattle field\nia o\nG od\nĠc inem\nra pe\nel le\nap ons\nĠlist ing\nĠwa ited\nĠsp otted\nke ley\nĠAud io\ne or\nard ing\nidd ing\nig ma\nĠN eg\nĠl one\nĠ ----\nex e\nd eg\nĠtrans f\nĠwas h\nĠsl avery\nĠexpl oring\nĠW W\nats on\nĠen cl\nl ies\nĠC reek\nĠwood en\nMan ager\nĠBr and\num my\nĠAr thur\nĠbureau cr\nĠbl end\nar ians\nF urther\nĠsupposed ly\nĠwind s\nĠ19 79\nĠgrav ity\nĠanalys es\nĠTra vel\nĠV eter\nĠd umb\nĠaltern ate\ng al\nĠconsum ed\nĠeffect iveness\n.' '\nĠpath s\nond a\nL A\nĠStr ong\nĠen ables\nĠesc aped\nĠ\" \"\nĠ1 12\nĠ198 3\nĠsm iled\nĠtend ency\nF ire\nĠp ars\nĠR oc\nĠl ake\nĠf itness\nĠA th\nĠH orn\nĠh ier\nĠimp ose\nm other\nĠp ension\nic ut\nbor ne\nic iary\n. _\nĠS U\nĠpol ar\nis y\neng u\nitial ized\nAT A\nw rite\nĠexerc ises\nĠD iamond\not ypes\nĠharm ful\non z\nĠprint ing\nst ory\nĠexpert ise\nĠG er\nĠtraged y\nĠF ly\nĠd ivid\namp ire\nst ock\nM em\nĠre ign\nĠun ve\nĠam end\nĠProp het\nĠmut ual\nĠF ac\nĠrepl acing\nH ar\nĠCirc uit\nĠthro at\nĠSh ot\nĠbatter ies\nĠto ll\nĠaddress ing\nĠMedic aid\nĠp upp\nĠN ar\nol k\nĠequ ity\nM R\nĠHis pan\nĠL arge\nm id\nD ev\nĠexp ed\nĠdem o\nĠMarsh all\nerg us\nĠf iber\nĠdiv orce\nĠCre ate\nĠsl ower\nĠPark er\nĠStud ent\nĠTr aining\nRet urn\nĠT ru\nĠc ub\nĠRe ached\nĠpan ic\nĠqu arters\nĠre ct\nĠtreat ing\nĠr ats\nĠChristian ity\nol er\nĠsac red\nĠdecl are\nul ative\net ing\nĠdeliver ing\nest one\nĠt el\nĠL arry\nĠmet a\nac cept\nart z\nĠRog er\nhand ed\nĠhead er\nĠtra pped\nĠCent ury\nĠkn ocked\nĠOx ford\nĠsurviv ors\nb ot\nĠdemon stration\nĠd irt\nĠass ists\nOM E\nĠD raft\nortun ate\nfol io\npe red\nust ers\ng t\nĠL ock\nĠjud icial\nver ted\nĠsec ured\nout ing\nĠBook s\nĠhost ing\nĠlif ted\nl ength\nĠj er\nĠwhe els\nĠR ange\numbn ails\nĠdiagn osis\nte ch\nĠStew art\nĠP ract\nĠnation wide\nĠde ar\nĠoblig ations\nĠgrow s\nĠmand atory\nĠsusp icious\n! '\nA pr\nG reat\nĠmort gage\nĠprosecut or\nĠeditor ial\nĠK r\nĠprocess ed\nung le\nĠflex ibility\nEar lier\nĠC art\nĠS ug\nĠfoc uses\nĠstart up\nĠbre ach\nĠT ob\ncy cle\nãĢ Į\nro se\nĠb izarre\nãĢ į\nĠveget ables\n$ $\nĠret reat\nosh i\nĠSh op\nĠG round\nĠSt op\nĠHawai i\nĠA y\nPer haps\nĠBe aut\nuff er\nenn a\nĠproduct ivity\nF ixed\ncont rol\nĠabs ent\nĠCamp aign\nG reen\nĠident ifying\nĠreg ret\nĠpromot ed\nĠSe ven\nĠer u\nne ath\naug hed\nĠP in\nĠL iving\nC ost\nom atic\nme ga\nĠN ig\noc y\nĠin box\nĠem pire\nĠhor izont\nĠbr anches\nĠmet aph\nAct ive\ned i\nĠFil m\nĠS omething\nĠmod s\ninc ial\nĠOrig inal\nG en\nĠspir its\nĠear ning\nH ist\nĠr iders\nĠsacr ific\nM T\nĠV A\nĠS alt\nĠoccup ation\nĠM i\nĠdis g\nlic t\nĠn it\nĠn odes\ne em\nĠP ier\nĠhat red\nps y\nãĥ ī\nĠthe ater\nĠsophistic ated\nĠdef ended\nĠbes ides\nĠthorough ly\nĠMedic are\nĠbl amed\narent ly\nĠcry ing\nF OR\npri v\nĠsing ing\nĠI l\nĠc ute\no ided\nolit ical\nĠNe uro\nå ¤\nĠdon ation\nĠEag les\nĠG ive\nT om\nĠsubstant ially\nĠLic ense\nĠJ a\nĠg rey\nĠAn imal\nĠE R\nĠU nd\nĠke en\nĠconclud e\nĠMississ ippi\nEng ine\nĠStud ios\nP ress\no vers\nll ers\nĠ3 50\nĠR angers\nĠr ou\nert o\nE p\niss a\niv an\nĠse al\nĠReg ist\ndis play\nĠwe aken\nu um\nĠComm ons\nĠS ay\nĠcult ures\nĠl aughed\nĠsl ip\nĠtreat ments\niz able\nm art\nĠR ice\nĠbe ast\nĠob esity\nĠLa ure\nig a\nWh ich\nhold er\nĠelder ly\nĠp ays\nĠcompl ained\nĠc rop\nĠpro c\nĠexplos ive\nĠF an\nĠAr senal\nA uthor\nef ul\nĠme als\nĠ( -\nid ays\nĠimag ination\nĠann ually\nĠm s\nas ures\nH ead\nik h\nm atic\nĠboy friend\nĠCom puter\nĠb ump\nĠsur ge\nĠCra ig\nĠKir k\nD el\nmedi ate\nĠscen arios\nĠM ut\nĠSt ream\nĠcompet itors\nÙ Ħ\nĠStan ford\nĠRes ources\naz ed\nb age\nĠorgan is\nĠRe lease\nĠsepar ately\nĠha bits\nĠmeasure ments\nĠCl ose\nĠaccomp any\nĠg ly\nĠt ang\nĠR ou\nĠplug in\nĠcon vey\nĠChall enge\noot s\nj an\nĠcur s\nĠRel ations\nke eper\nĠapproach ing\np ing\nSpe aking\nĠarrang ement\nĠV I\nare ttes\nĠaffect ing\nĠperm its\nb ecause\nĠu seless\nĠH us\n!! !!\nĠdestro ying\nUn fortunately\nĠfasc inating\nS em\nĠelect oral\nĠtrans parency\nĠCh aos\nĠvolunte er\nĠstatist ical\nĠactiv ated\nro x\nWe b\nH E\nĠHamp shire\nis ive\nM ap\nĠtr ash\nĠLaw rence\nst ick\nC r\nĠr ings\nEX T\nĠoper ational\nop es\nD oes\nĠEv ans\nĠwitness ed\nP ort\nĠlaunch ing\nec onom\nw ear\nĠPart icip\num m\ncul es\nĠR AM\nĠT un\nĠass ured\nĠb inary\nĠbet ray\nĠexpl oration\nĠF el\nĠad mission\nit ated\nS y\nĠav oided\nĠSim ulator\nĠcelebr ated\nĠElect ric\n¥ ŀ\nĠcl uster\nitzer land\nhe alth\nL ine\nĠN ash\nat on\nĠsp are\nĠenter prise\nĠD IS\nclud es\nĠfl ights\nĠreg ards\nĠà Ĺ\nh alf\nĠtr ucks\nĠcontact s\nĠunc ons\nĠCl imate\nĠimm ense\nN EW\noc c\nect ive\nĠemb od\nĠpat rol\nĠbes ide\nĠv iable\nĠcre ep\nĠtrig gered\nver ning\nĠcompar able\nq l\nĠg aining\nass es\nĠ( );\nĠG rey\nĠM LS\ns ized\nĠpros per\n\" ?\nĠpoll ing\nĠsh ar\nĠR C\nĠfire arm\nor ient\nĠf ence\nĠvari ations\ng iving\nĠP i\nosp el\nĠpled ge\nĠc ure\nĠsp y\nĠviol ated\nĠr ushed\nĠstro ke\nĠBl og\nsel s\nĠE c\n,' '\nĠp ale\nĠColl ins\nter ror\nĠCanad ians\nĠt une\nĠlabor atory\nĠn ons\nt arian\nĠdis ability\nĠG am\nĠsing er\nal g\nĠSen ior\nĠtrad ed\nĠWar rior\nĠinf ring\nĠFrank lin\nĠstr ain\nĠSwed ish\nĠsevent h\nĠB enn\nĠT ell\nĠsynd rome\nĠwond ered\nid en\n++ ++\nig o\nĠpur ple\nĠjournal ism\nĠreb el\nĠf u\nbl og\nĠinv ite\nren cies\nĠCont act\nIs rael\nĠCont ent\nĠche er\nĠbed room\nĠEngine ering\nĠQue ens\nĠd well\nĠPlay Station\nĠD im\nĠCol on\nl r\nĠoper ates\nĠmotiv ation\nUS A\nast ered\nC ore\nĠTr uth\nol o\nOS E\nĠMem ory\nĠpred ec\nĠan arch\nĠ19 20\nĠY am\nà ¨\nb id\nĠgr ateful\nĠexc itement\nĠtre asure\nĠlong est\nct ive\nĠdes erves\nĠreserv es\nĠcop s\nĠOtt awa\nĠEgypt ian\nank ed\nĠart if\nĠhypot hesis\n: /\nĠpurch asing\nĠlove ly\nH P\nĠdiv ide\nĠstrict ly\nĠquestion ing\nĠtaxp ayers\nĠJ oy\nĠroll s\nĠHe avy\nĠp orts\nĠmag netic\nĠinf lamm\nĠbr ush\nt ics\nâ ĪĴ\nĠbott les\npp y\nĠp add\nãĤ ¯\nm illion\nĠdevast ating\nĠcomp iled\nĠmed ication\nĠtw elve\nĠPer ry\nSp ace\nim b\ny our\nĠle aked\nĠT ar\nĠun ity\nĠinfect ed\nĠtravel ed\nID E\nĠMc Donald\nt xt\nĠPr inc\nĠinter ven\nĠTai wan\nĠP ow\nĠbe aring\nĠTh read\nĠz ones\niz ards\nun ks\nCh apter\nll or\nĠ ·\nĠw ounds\nĠdisc retion\nĠsucceed ed\nik ing\nĠicon ic\nC all\nĠscreen ing\nĠM is\nict s\nĠmin isters\nĠsepar ation\nPl ayer\nĠb ip\nĠbel oved\nĠcount ing\nĠE ye\nar ound\ning ing\nĠtable t\nĠoff ence\nin ance\nh ave\nĠInf o\nĠNin ja\nĠprotect ive\nĠC ass\nM ac\nĠQual ity\nN orth\nĠ ic\nĠCub a\nĠChron icle\nĠPro perty\nĠfast est\not os\nĠG erm\nOW N\nĠbo om\nĠStan ley\nergus on\nĠcle ver\nĠent ers\nm ode\nter ior\nĠS ens\nĠlin ear\nAR K\nĠcomp aring\nĠpure ly\nĠsaf er\nĠPot ter\nĠc ups\nR T\nĠgl uc\nĠatt ributed\nĠdu pl\nĠP ap\nĠprec ious\nĠp a\niction ary\nĠT ig\nĠTo o\nol utions\nst an\nĠrob ots\nĠlob b\nĠstat ute\nĠprevent ion\nw estern\n16 0\nĠAct ive\nĠMar ia\nh al\nN one\nell ar\nĠK B\nĠPart ners\nĠSing le\nĠFollow ing\nang o\nac ious\nĠth ou\nĠk g\nĠinflu ential\nĠFriend s\nS ur\nain ted\nĠfor ums\nĠst arter\nĠcitizens hip\nĠE lection\non ge\not ation\nos ph\n;; ;;\nut ical\np ur\nere n\nĠaccus ations\nbit ious\nab bit\nĠOr d\nPost ed\nir k\nĠsens itivity\nic he\nĠAm y\nĠF ab\nĠsum mit\nĠped est\nĠrub ber\nĠagric ultural\nĠcan cel\nA E\nĠin aug\nĠcont am\nĠfirm ly\ni w\nst age\nĠK an\nĠt ier\nĠinv ention\nĠtransl ated\nĠR ules\nB ox\nTw itter\nID S\nĠp izza\nĠdeb ug\nĠD rop\nv s\nĠh orses\nb ig\nĠb oring\nĠh ood\nĠMcC ain\nat ched\nĠBro s\nĠsk ip\nĠess ay\nst at\nĠLeg ends\nĠam munition\nau c\nĠshoot er\nĠun h\nĠsuppl ied\nĠgener ic\nĠS K\nib an\nyr ics\nĠ25 5\nĠclim bing\nForm er\nĠfl ip\nĠjump ing\nĠfrust ration\nĠTer ry\nĠneighborhood s\nĠmed ian\nbe an\nĠbr ains\nFollow ing\nĠsh aped\nĠdraw s\nĠal tered\nJ ack\nĠrecip es\nĠsk illed\nwe alth\nach i\ne lection\nĠbehavi ors\nde als\nĠU ntil\nF e\nĠdecl aration\nmar ks\nĠBet ween\ncel ona\nĠres on\nĠbub ble\nAm ong\nĠim perial\nG S\nĠfemin ist\n200 5\nĠK yle\nĠaccount ing\nĠTe le\nĠT yr\nĠconnect ing\nĠre hab\nĠP red\ns im\nĠmeant ime\nĠphys ician\nM W\nĠCamp bell\nĠBr andon\nĠcontribut ing\nĠR ule\nĠWe ight\nĠN ap\nĠinter active\nĠv ag\nĠhel met\nĠCom b\nf our\nĠsh ipped\nĠcomple ting\nĠP D\nPD ATE\nĠspread ing\nĠsc ary\nerv ing\nĠG as\nĠfr ank\ns chool\nĠrom antic\nĠstab il\nR ob\nĠaccur ately\nĠac ute\nĠH ann\nĠsymbol s\nĠcivil ization\nĠA W\nĠlight ning\nĠcons iders\nĠven ue\nĠ ×\nĠo ven\nĠS F\nh is\nĠn u\nĠLear n\nĠpe oples\nĠst d\nĠsle e\nĠs lic\nĠStat istics\nĠcor ners\nĠB aker\nĠ: )\nment ation\nol ver\nĠlaugh ing\nĠT odd\nond e\nĠH ills\nĠn uts\nĠW oman\npl ane\nĠl iver\nĠIn side\nS orry\nĠagre es\nĠfund ament\nĠF isher\nĠa uction\nĠthread s\ngl as\nĠBas ic\nĠN at\nĠlack ing\nĠceleb ration\nj u\nĠs illy\nE uro\nĠt att\night y\ncont rolled\nT est\nĠSing h\nĠr age\nĠrh yth\no ffic\nĠPh antom\nĠhead lines\nĠrespond ing\nĠMor ning\nĠvit amin\nĠboot s\nĠS ite\nal in\np i\nĠvir al\nĠU C\nD ER\nĠSe x\nĠst ocks\nc urrent\nĠch urches\nĠR are\nĠMur phy\nĠden ial\nĠG aming\nĠtou g\nĠn ick\nĠm akers\nĠRon ald\nĠgener ous\nĠD oc\nĠMor ris\nĠtransform ed\nĠN ormal\nĠ10 4\nĠKick starter\nĠUp on\nOn line\nĠI RS\nĠw rap\nĠl oving\nĠarri ves\nĠD ue\nĠhe ter\nĠM ade\nĠrent al\nĠbelong s\nĠatt orneys\nĠcro ps\nĠmat ched\nul um\nol ine\n10 9\nĠdis par\nĠbuy ers\nĠCam bridge\nĠeth ics\nrou ps\nĠjust ified\nĠmarg inal\nĠrespect ed\nwin ning\nĠnodd ed\nĠSer ge\nĠForm er\nC raft\n######## ########\nĠWar ner\nĠd ash\net e\nĠent ert\nĠE scape\nout heast\nĠkn ees\nĠB omb\nĠr ug\nP ass\nĠatt itudes\ngo vernment\nĠPri or\nĠqual ities\nĠnot ification\nĠPh one\nl ie\nĠanticip ated\nĠCom bat\nĠBar ry\nĠ198 2\nUs ers\non er\nĠcomput ing\nĠConnect icut\nĠless er\nĠpe ers\nĠC u\nĠtechn ically\nĠsub mission\nĠUn iversal\nĠman ually\nour ge\nĠrespond ents\nĠB TC\nĠH ost\nĠf are\nĠB ird\nĠrece ipt\nal so\nĠj ack\nĠagric ulture\nĠsk ull\nĠ! =\nĠpass ive\nĠC I\nĠsoc ieties\nĠremind ed\nĠinter ference\nB uy\nĠâ ľ\ng on\nĠscrut iny\nĠW itch\nĠconduct ing\nĠ ãĥ\nĠexch anges\nĠMit chell\nĠinhab it\nĠtw ist\nB D\nĠwhere ver\ngroup on\nĠj okes\nĠBen jamin\nĠR andom\nfr ame\nĠL ions\nĠhighlight ed\nĠArk ansas\nE nt\nĠp ile\nĠpre lim\ng s\nmind ed\nĠfel ony\nĠG A\nĠL uck\nĠpract ically\nĠB os\nĠact ress\nD am\nĠB ou\nĠvis a\nĠembed ded\nĠhy brid\nĠear liest\nĠsoon er\ns ocial\nĠH A\nĠste ep\nĠdis advant\nĠexplo it\nĠE gg\nĠUlt ra\nĠnecess ity\nL ocal\nie ge\nĠd ated\nĠmass es\nĠsubsc ription\npl ess\nĠan onym\nĠpresum ably\nBl ue\nThe ir\nasket ball\nĠPhil ip\nĠcom ed\nload ed\nr ane\nĠref lection\nCh ina\nĠext ends\nĠform ing\nĠund ers\n200 1\nĠgr at\nĠconcent rations\nĠins ulin\nĠsec ular\nĠwh ilst\nĠwin ners\nAd vertisements\nĠdeliber ately\nĠWork ing\nĠs ink\net ics\nd ale\nĠmand ate\nĠg ram\nĠvac ation\nĠwarn ings\nri pp\nĠTH AT\nĠcomment ary\nĠint u\nĠa est\nĠreason ing\nĠbreak down\nĠZ ombie\nĠ-- >\nĠPolit ical\nc ott\nĠthr ust\nĠtechn ological\nĠdec iding\nĠtraff icking\nL ong\nW elcome\npr ising\nĠCommun ications\nĠend ors\nĠsw 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bs\nĠagg ress\nĠse am\nĠinter cept\nĠM I\nmer cial\nact iv\nĠC it\nĠdim ension\nĠconsist ency\nĠr ushing\nĠDou glas\nĠtr im\nInst all\nick er\nĠsh y\n10 6\nĠment ions\npe lled\nĠT ak\nc ost\nĠclass room\nĠfort une\ndri ven\nĠun le\nĠWhe el\nĠinvest or\nĠM asters\nk it\nĠassoci ations\nĠEv olution\nop ing\nus cript\nĠprov incial\nĠWal ter\nav i\nS O\nĠun limited\nEng lish\nĠC ards\nĠEb ola\nne red\nĠreven ge\nĠout right\num per\nĠf itting\nĠSol id\nĠform ally\nĠproblem atic\nĠhaz ard\nĠenc ryption\nĠstraight forward\nĠA K\nĠp se\nĠOr b\nĠCh amber\nĠM ak\nCont ents\nĠloyal ty\nĠl yrics\nĠSy m\nĠwel comed\nĠcook ed\nĠmon op\nĠn urse\nĠmis leading\nĠe ternal\nĠshif ting\nĠ+ =\nV is\nĠinst itutional\nill ary\nĠp ant\nVER T\nĠA CC\nĠEn h\nĠinc on\nĠRE UTERS\nĠdon ated\nâĢ¦âĢ¦ âĢ¦âĢ¦\nIn tern\nĠexhib it\nĠt ire\nĠR ic\nĠCh ampion\nĠMu hammad\nN ING\nĠSoc cer\nĠmob ility\nĠvary ing\nĠM ovie\nĠl ord\no ak\nF ield\nĠve ctor\nus ions\nĠsc rap\nĠen abling\nm ake\nT or\n. *\n| |\nĠWe bsite\nĠN PC\nĠsocial ist\nĠBill y\nĠAdd itional\nĠc argo\nĠfar ms\nĠSo on\nĠPri ze\nĠmid night\nĠ9 00\nse en\nĠSp ot\nĠshe ep\nĠspons ored\nĠH i\nĠJ ump\nĠ19 67\nMicro soft\nĠAg ent\nĠch arts\nd ir\nĠadj acent\nĠtr icks\nĠman ga\nĠex agger\n/ >\nfoot ball\nĠF CC\nG C\nĠT ier\nand ra\nOU ND\n% ),\nĠfru its\nV C\nĠA A\nR ober\nĠmid st\nâ Ĺ\nank a\nĠlegisl ature\nĠNe il\nĠtour ists\n\" \"\nĠWar ning\nĠNever theless\nĠOffic ial\nĠWh atever\nĠm old\nĠdraft ed\nĠsubst ances\nĠbre ed\nĠt ags\nĠT ask\nĠver b\nĠmanufact ured\ncom ments\nĠPol ish\nPro v\nĠdetermin es\nOb ama\nk ers\nĠutter ly\nĠse ct\nsc he\nĠG ates\nĠCh ap\nĠal uminum\nĠz ombie\nĠT ouch\nĠU P\nĠsatisf y\nĠpred omin\nasc ript\nĠelabor ate\nĠ19 68\nĠmeas uring\nĠV ari\nany ahu\nĠs ir\nul ates\nid ges\nick ets\nĠSp encer\nT M\noub ted\nĠpre y\nĠinstall ing\nĠC ab\nre ed\nre ated\nSu pp\nĠwr ist\nĠK erry\n10 7\nĠK le\nĠR achel\nĠc otton\nĠA RE\nĠE le\nCont rol\nĠload s\nĠD od\nan as\nb one\nĠclass ical\nĠReg ional\nĠInt eg\nV M\nĠdes ires\nĠaut ism\nsupport ed\nĠM essage\nĠcomp act\nwrit er\nĠ10 9\nĠHur ricane\nc ision\nĠcy cles\nĠdr ill\nĠcolle ague\nĠm aker\nG erman\nĠmist aken\nS un\nĠG ay\nĠwhat soever\nĠsell s\nĠA irl\nl iv\nĠO ption\nĠsol ved\nĠse ctors\nĠhorizont al\nĠequ ation\nĠSk ill\nĠB io\ng ement\nĠSn ap\nĠLeg al\nĠtradem ark\nĠmake up\nĠassemb led\nĠsa ves\nĠHallow een\nĠVer mont\nĠFR OM\nĠfar ming\nĠP odcast\naccept able\nĠHig her\nĠas leep\null ivan\nĠrefere n\nĠLe v\nĠbul lets\nok o\nH C\nĠst airs\nĠmain tains\nĠL ower\nĠV i\nĠmar ine\nĠac res\nĠcoordin ator\nĠJ oh\nĠcounterpart s\nĠBrother s\nĠind ict\nb ra\nĠch unk\nĠc ents\nH ome\nĠMon th\nĠaccording ly\nif les\nĠGerm ans\nĠSy n\nH ub\nĠey eb\nâĶĢâĶĢ âĶĢâĶĢ\nĠr anges\nĠHoll and\nĠRob ot\nf c\nM ike\nĠpl asma\nĠsw ap\nĠath lete\nĠR ams\n,' \"\nĠinfect ions\nĠcor rid\nĠv ib\nĠpat ches\nĠtradition ally\nĠrevel ation\nĠswe ep\nĠgl ance\nĠin ex\n200 3\nĠR aw\nwork ing\nos ures\nĠD at\nĠLyn ch\nĠle verage\nĠRe id\nĠcorrel ation\nian ces\nav ascript\nĠrep ository\nret ty\nĠ19 72\n24 0\nĠo un\np ol\nĠRe ed\nĠtact ical\nis ite\nApp le\nĠQu inn\nĠrap ed\nill o\nEuro pe\nĠalgorith ms\nĠRod rig\ni u\nĠill um\nĠf ame\nĠintrodu cing\nĠdel ays\nĠRaid ers\nĠwh istle\nĠnovel s\nĠRe ally\nĠder iv\nĠpublic ations\nĠNe ither\nĠCom merce\nĠa ston\nl anguage\nNot es\nĠR oth\nĠF ear\nĠm ate\nĠpar ade\nĠQ B\nĠman eu\nĠC incinnati\nm itting\nĠwa ist\nĠR ew\nĠdisc ont\nÐ °\nĠst aring\nĠal ias\nĠsec urities\nĠtoile t\nĠJ edi\nĠun law\nv ised\n//// ////\n] (\nĠWe iss\nĠpre st\nĠComp an\nĠmem o\nĠGr ace\nJ uly\nĠEl ite\ncent er\nĠSt ay\nĠgal axy\nĠto oth\nĠS ettings\nĠsubject ed\nãĤ ¦\nĠline back\nĠretail ers\nĠW ant\nĠd angers\nA ir\nĠvolunt ary\new ay\nĠinterpret ed\not ine\nà §\nĠp el\nServ ice\nĠEvent ually\nĠcare ers\nĠthreat en\nĠmem or\nĠBrad ley\nanc ies\ns n\nĠUn known\nN ational\nĠsh adows\nail and\nĠD ash\nEvery one\nizz ard\nM arch\n= (\nĠpull s\nĠstr anger\nĠback wards\nĠBern ard\nimens ional\nĠch ron\nĠtheoret ical\nk top\nĠw are\nĠInvest ig\nĠIn iti\nĠOper ations\no ven\noc ide\n* /\nĠfl ames\nĠC ash\nsh it\nĠc ab\nĠAn aly\nĠSe ah\nĠdefin ing\nĠorder ing\nĠimm un\nĠpers istent\nAC H\nRuss ian\nm ans\nĠh ind\nĠphot ography\n ©\nĠh ug\nĠ10 7\nĠH ence\ni ots\nude au\nĠsubsid ies\nĠroutine ly\nĠDev ice\nit ic\nĠdisg ust\nland er\nĠ19 40\nĠassign ment\nĠB esides\nw ick\nĠD ust\nus c\nstruct ed\n11 1\nde velop\nĠf ond\nĠinter section\nĠdign ity\nĠcommission er\nWith out\nre ach\nĠcart oon\nĠsc ales\nãĥ Ń\nF IG\nĠsurve ys\nĠIndones ia\nĠart work\nĠun ch\nĠcy cling\nun ct\nau er\nor ate\nĠOb viously\nĠcharacter ized\nfe ld\nĠaff irm\nĠinn ings\nĠ é\nĠal iens\nĠcl oth\net ooth\nĠC ertain\n §\nĠdig est\nk now\nĠX L\nĠpredict ions\nĠd in\nW AR\nĠafter math\nEx ample\nĠSu ccess\nĠTh r\nIG N\nĠmin er\nB us\nĠcl arity\nheim er\nĠO UT\nĠS end\nĠCirc le\nĠD iet\nĠpron ounced\nĠcreat ors\nĠearthqu ake\natter y\nge ons\nĠo d\nĠlay ing\nor p\nU lt\npro ject\nĠunder min\nĠsequ el\nS am\nĠDark ness\nĠre ception\nb ull\nY S\nĠV ir\nĠsequ ences\nĠCo in\nĠout fit\nĠW ait\n1 19\nĠdel ivers\n.... ..\nĠbl own\nĠE sc\nĠM ath\nper m\nĠU l\nĠgl im\nĠfac ial\nĠgreen house\nĠto kens\n/ -\nĠAnn ual\nĠON E\nĠteen age\nĠPhys ical\nĠL ang\nĠC elt\nĠsu ed\nivid ually\nĠpat ience\nch air\nreg ular\nĠa ug\nin v\nex cept\nĠL il\nĠn est\nf d\ns um\nĠCh ase\nRuss ia\nĠJenn ifer\nĠoff season\nOver all\nF ore\nĠr iot\nA ud\nform er\nĠdefend ers\nĠC T\niot ic\nrib ly\nĠautom ated\nĠpen is\nĠins ist\nĠdi agram\nĠS QL\nĠG arc\nĠw itch\ncl ient\nier ra\nam bers\nĠrec ount\nf ar\nV ery\noster one\nĠappreci ated\nĠPer fect\nS ection\nĠd oses\noca ust\nĠcost ly\nĠg rams\nĠSh i\nĠwrest ling\nĠ19 71\nĠtro phy\nĠn erve\nĠK az\nĠExper ience\nĠpled ged\nĠplay back\nĠcreat ivity\nby e\nĠattack ers\nĠhold ers\nĠCo ach\nĠPh D\nĠtransf ers\nĠcol ored\nĠH indu\nĠd rown\nĠlist ened\nĠW A\nias m\nP O\nĠappeal ing\nĠdiscl osed\nĠCh icken\nag ging\nĠple aded\nĠnav igation\nĠReturn s\nĠ[ [\nR OR\nE A\nĠphotograp her\nĠR ider\nipp ers\nĠsl ice\nĠe rect\nĠhe d\niss ance\nĠVik ings\nur ious\nĠapp et\noubted ly\nCh ild\nĠauthent ic\no os\nĠM aking\nĠannoun cing\nĠb od\nĠmet er\nĠN ine\nĠR ogue\nĠwork force\nĠrenew ed\nĠorganis ations\nac s\nP LE\nSh ort\nĠcomp ounds\nĠVis it\nĠen velop\near th\nĠsupport ive\ngg le\nĠBrus sels\nĠGu ild\nCre ate\nRE L\nĠaver aged\nĠ19 69\nri ages\nĠlength y\nĠforg ot\nO kay\nĠE rd\nĠdeal er\nĠrec ession\nD D\nĠdesper ately\nĠhun ger\nĠst icks\nĠm ph\nĠF aith\nĠintention ally\nĠdem ol\nue ller\nĠS ale\nĠde bris\ns pring\nĠle ap\n>> >>\nĠcontain ers\nse lling\nrane an\natter ing\nĠcomment ed\nĠC M\non ut\nĠwood s\nes pecially\nĠorgan ize\niv ic\nĠWood s\nang a\ns qu\nĠm aj\nam on\nĠax is\nĠ19 74\nĠDen mark\nĠwar rior\nĠP and\nĠout lined\nĠB O\nins ula\nz illa\neb ook\nĠd are\nĠsear ched\nĠnav igate\nS n\nwrit ing\nĠun ited\nJ apan\nĠHe brew\nĠfl ame\nĠrel ies\nĠcatch ing\nĠSh o\nĠimprison ment\nĠp ockets\nĠclos ure\nĠF am\nt im\nade qu\nAct ivity\nĠrecru iting\nĠW ATCH\nĠArgent ina\nd est\nĠapolog ize\nor o\nĠlack s\nĠtun ed\nĠGriff in\nĠinf amous\nĠcelebr ity\nss on\nĠ ----------------------------------------------------------------\nĠIs is\nĠDis play\nĠcred ibility\nĠeconom ies\nĠhead line\nĠCow boys\nĠind ef\nĠl ately\nĠincent ives\nbut ton\nĠM ob\nA ut\nĠres igned\nĠO m\nc amp\nĠprof iles\nĠsche mes\nolph ins\nay ed\nCl inton\nen h\nĠY ahoo\nĠab st\nĠan k\nsu its\nĠw ished\nĠMar co\nudd en\nĠsp here\nĠB ishop\nĠincorpor ated\nĠPl ant\n11 4\nĠh ated\np ic\nĠdon ate\nĠl ined\nĠbe ans\nĠsteal ing\nĠcost ume\nĠsher iff\nĠfor ty\nĠint act\nĠadapt ed\nĠtrave lling\nb art\nĠnice ly\nĠdri ed\nĠsc al\nos ity\nNOT E\nĠB h\nĠBron cos\nĠI gn\nĠint imate\nĠchem istry\nĠopt imal\nD eb\nĠGener ation\nĠ] ,\nich i\nĠW ii\nĠYOU R\nvent ions\nW rite\nĠpop ul\nun ning\nĠW or\nV ol\nĠqu een\nhead s\nK K\nĠanaly ze\nop ic\near chers\nĠd ot\nleg raph\nast ically\nĠupgr ades\nĠca res\nĠext ending\nĠfree ze\nĠin ability\nĠorg ans\nĠpret end\nĠout let\n11 3\nol an\nĠM all\nul ing\nt alk\nĠexpress ing\nĠAl ways\nĠBe gin\nf iles\nĠlic enses\n% %\nĠM itt\nĠfil ters\nĠMil waukee\nG N\nĠunf old\nM o\nĠnut rition\npp o\nB o\nĠfound ing\nĠunder mine\nĠeas iest\nĠC zech\nĠM ack\nĠsexual ity\nĠN ixon\nW in\nĠAr n\nĠK in\nãĤ £\nic er\nĠfort un\nĠsurf aces\nagh d\nĠcar riers\nĠP ART\nĠT ib\nĠinter val\nĠfrust rating\nĠSh ip\nĠAr med\nff e\nĠbo ats\nĠAb raham\nin is\nĠsu ited\nth read\ni ov\nab ul\nĠVenezuel a\nĠto m\nsu per\nĠcast le\nalth ough\niox ide\nec hes\nĠevolution ary\nĠnegoti ate\nĠconfront ed\nRem ember\nĠ17 0\nS uch\nĠ9 11\nm ult\nĠA byss\nur ry\nke es\nspe c\nĠBarb ara\nĠbelong ing\nĠvill ain\nist ani\nĠaccount able\nĠport ions\nĠDe cl\nU r\nĠK ate\ng re\nĠmag azines\nUC K\nĠregul ate\nom on\nĠAl most\nĠover view\nĠsc ram\nĠl oot\nĠF itz\nĠcharacter istic\nĠSn ake\ns ay\nĠR ico\nĠtra it\nĠJo ined\nau cus\nĠadapt ation\nĠAirl ines\nĠarch ae\nĠI de\nĠb ikes\nĠliter ary\nĠinflu ences\nĠUs ed\nC reat\nĠple a\nĠDef ence\nĠAss ass\nĠp ond\nUL T\n) \"\nĠeval uated\nĠob taining\nĠdem ographic\nĠvig il\nale y\nĠsp ouse\nĠSeah awks\nresp ons\nĠB elt\num atic\nĠr ises\nrun ner\nĠMichel le\nĠpot ent\nr ace\nĠP AC\nF ind\nolester ol\nIS S\nĠIntrodu ced\nress es\nign ment\nO s\nĠT u\nĠDe x\nic ides\nĠspark ed\nĠLaur a\nĠBry ant\nĠsm iling\nĠNex us\nĠdefend ants\nĠCat al\nĠdis hes\nsh aped\nĠpro long\nm t\n( $\nãĢ Ĥ\nĠcalcul ations\nĠS ame\nĠp iv\nH H\nĠcance lled\nĠgr in\nĠterrit ories\nist ically\nC ome\nĠP arent\nPro ject\nĠneg lig\nĠPriv acy\nĠam mo\nLE CT\nolute ly\nĠEp ic\nĠmis under\nw al\nApr il\nm os\npath y\nĠC arson\nĠalbum s\nĠE asy\nĠpist ol\n< <\nĠ\\ (\nt arget\nhel p\nĠinter pre\ncons cious\nĠH ousing\nĠJ oint\n12 7\nĠbe ers\ns cience\nĠFire fox\neffect ive\nĠC abin\nĠO kay\nĠApp lic\nĠspace craft\nĠS R\nve t\nĠStr ange\nS B\nĠcor ps\niber al\ne fficient\nĠpreval ence\nĠeconom ists\n11 8\nTh read\nord able\nOD E\nĠC ant\n=- =-\nif iable\nĠA round\nĠpo le\nĠwilling ness\nCL A\nĠK id\nĠcomple ment\nĠsc attered\nĠin mates\nĠble eding\ne very\nĠque ue\nĠTr ain\nĠh ij\nĠme lee\nple ted\nĠdig it\nĠg em\noffic ial\nĠlif ting\nÐ µ\nRe qu\nit utes\nĠpack aging\nĠWork ers\nh ran\nĠLeban on\nol esc\nĠpun ished\nĠJ uan\nĠj am\nĠD ocument\nĠm apping\nic ates\nĠinev itably\nĠvan illa\nĠT on\nĠwat ches\nĠle agues\nĠiniti ated\ndeg ree\nport ion\nĠrec alls\nĠru in\nĠm elt\nI AN\nĠhe m\nEx p\nĠb aking\nĠCol omb\nat ible\nĠrad ius\npl ug\nĠI F\net ically\nĠf ict\nH ER\nĠT ap\natin um\nĠin k\nĠco h\nĠW izard\nb oth\nte x\nĠsp ends\nĠCurrent ly\nĠP it\nĠneur ons\nig nt\nĠr all\nĠbus es\nb uilding\nĠadjust ments\nĠc ried\nibl ical\natt ed\nĠZ ion\nĠM atter\nĠmed itation\nĠD ennis\nĠour s\nĠT ab\nĠrank ings\nort al\nĠad vers\nĠsur render\nĠG ob\nci um\nom as\nim eter\nĠmulti player\nĠhero in\nĠoptim istic\nĠindic ator\nĠBr ig\nĠgro cery\nĠapplic ant\nĠRock et\nv id\nEx ception\np ent\nĠorgan izing\nĠenc ounters\nĠT OD\nĠjew el\nS ave\nĠChrist ie\nĠhe ating\nĠl azy\nĠC P\nĠcous in\nCon fig\nĠreg ener\nĠne arest\nĠachie ving\nEN S\nth row\nĠRich mond\nant le\n200 2\nĠan ten\nb ird\n13 3\nĠn arc\nr aint\nun ny\nĠHispan ic\nourn aments\nĠprop he\nĠTh ailand\nĠT i\nĠinject ion\nĠinher it\nrav is\nĠmed i\nĠwho ever\nĠDE BUG\nG P\nĠH ud\nC ard\np rom\nĠp or\nĠover head\nL aw\nĠviol ate\nĠhe ated\nĠdescript ions\nĠachieve ments\nĠBe er\nĠQu ant\nW as\nĠe ighth\nĠI v\nĠspecial ized\nU PDATE\nĠD elta\nP op\nJ ul\nĠAs k\noph y\nĠnews letters\nĠT ool\nĠg ard\nĠConf eder\nĠGM T\nĠAb bott\nĠimm unity\nĠV M\nIs lam\nĠimpl icit\nw d\nĠ19 44\nrav ity\nomet ric\nĠsurv iving\nur ai\nĠPr ison\nĠr ust\nĠSk etch\nĠbe es\nĠThe ory\nĠmer it\nT ex\nch at\nĠm im\nĠpast e\nĠK och\nĠignor ance\nĠSh oot\nĠbas ement\nUn ited\nĠAd vis\nhe ight\nĠf oster\nĠdet ain\nin formation\nĠne ural\n' ;\nĠprov es\nall ery\nĠinv itation\num bers\nĠc attle\nĠbicy cle\nz i\nĠconsult ant\nĠap ology\nĠT iger\nĠ12 3\n99 9\nĠind ividually\nr t\nig ion\nĠBrazil ian\nĠdist urb\nĠentreprene urs\nĠfore sts\ncer pt\npl ates\np her\nclip se\nĠtw itter\nĠac ids\nograph ical\nh um\nĠB ald\nif ully\nĠcomp iler\nĠD A\nĠdon or\nas i\nĠtrib al\nl ash\nĠCon fig\nĠapplic ants\nĠsal aries\n13 5\nPut in\nĠF ocus\nir s\nĠmisc onduct\nĠH az\nĠeat en\nM obile\nMus lim\nĠMar cus\nv iol\nĠfavor able\nĠst ub\nad in\nĠH ob\nĠfaith ful\nĠelectron ics\nĠvac uum\nw ait\nback ed\neconom ic\nd ist\nĠten ure\nĠsince re\nĠT ogether\nĠW ave\nĠprog ression\nĠden ying\nĠdist ress\nbr aska\nth ird\nĠmix ing\nĠcolon ial\nĠpriv ately\nĠun rest\natern ity\nĠprem ises\nant i\ngreg ation\nĠlic ence\nĠH ind\nĠSam uel\nĠconvinc ing\nĠA ce\nĠR ust\nĠNet anyahu\nĠhand les\nĠP atch\norient ed\nah o\nĠG onz\nĠhack ers\nclaim er\nĠcustom s\nĠGr an\nf ighters\nĠl uc\nĠman uscript\naren thood\nĠdev il\nĠwar riors\nĠoff enders\nWill iam\nĠhol idays\nĠnight mare\nĠle ver\niff erent\nSt at\nĠexhib ition\nput ed\nĠP ure\nĠal pha\nĠenthus iasm\nĠRepresent atives\nE AR\nĠT yp\nĠwhe at\nĠAl f\nĠcor rection\nĠev angel\nAT T\nM iss\nĠs oup\nĠimpl ied\npar am\nĠsex y\nĠL ux\nĠrep ublic\np atch\nab lish\nĠic 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ussy\nfer red\nut able\nĠatt ain\nĠ> =\nĠdepos its\nroph ic\nĠnot orious\nĠSh aw\nil itation\nĠepid emic\nall ic\nĠsmall est\nov ich\nĠaccess ories\nper ties\nĠsur plus\nĠMe ch\nĠamb ig\nĠImm igration\nĠch im\nev al\nĠpract icing\nĠMyster y\nĠdom ains\nĠSil icon\napp s\nĠkilomet ers\ne a\nĠSm ash\nĠwarrant y\nĠn ost\ns il\nre v\nJ on\nĠDub lin\nĠtast es\nĠb out\ng reat\ner ror\nĠsw itches\nĠB apt\nD O\nok i\nĠsour ced\npro du\nĠattach ment\nĠIss ue\nĠQuest ion\nJo in\nĠf itted\nĠunlaw ful\n^ ^\nere k\nĠauthent ication\nĠst ole\nĠaccount ability\nl abel\nS earch\nĠal beit\natic an\nfund ed\nĠAdd ing\nĠI Q\nĠsub mar\nl it\na que\nĠLear ning\nĠint eger\nM aster\nĠCh rom\nĠprem ier\nO p\nĠLi u\nĠbl essed\nĠGl obe\nĠResp onse\nĠlegit im\nĠMer kel\nĠdispos al\n ´\nĠgau ge\npe at\nĠindu ced\nĠquestion able\narth y\nĠV it\nĠF eed\nU ntil\nU t\nworth y\nR Y\nĠH erald\nĠHam mer\nĠmed al\nĠR ivers\nĠH ack\nĠclar ify\nĠtrack ed\nĠautonom ous\nĠten ant\nĠQ atar\ner ie\nĠgr im\nĠMon itor\nĠresist ant\nĠSpe c\nĠWell s\nN AS\n14 8\nĠmin ers\niot ics\nĠmiss es\n11 6\ng ian\ng it\nĠE yes\np res\nĠgrad uated\nĠang el\nĠsyn chron\nĠefficient ly\nĠtrans mitted\nH arry\nĠglob ally\nEN CE\nĠMont ana\nr aged\nĠPre vention\nĠp iss\nĠL l\nĠshe lf\nĠB JP\nĠTest ament\nĠL ate\nik er\nĠH app\nĠJul ian\nh all\nĠsp ont\nĠshut down\nĠincons istent\nĠsubscrib ers\nĠske leton\nĠNe braska\nĠins pire\nĠV oid\nF eed\nĠang les\nĠSpr ings\nĠbench mark\nĠvacc ines\nizoph ren\nse xual\nuff ed\nĠsh ine\nĠK ath\nĠgest ure\nine a\nĠr ip\nĠopp ression\nĠcons cience\nb t\nĠL um\nĠinc idence\nĠF a\nw r\nĠmin eral\nĠSp urs\nalk y\nĠth under\nĠop io\nBe ing\nĠPal m\nĠwas ted\nĠl b\ni aries\nĠIniti ative\nĠcur ric\nĠmark er\nĠMc L\nĠext ensions\nĠP v\nĠAr ms\nĠoffer ings\nĠdef enses\nĠvend or\nĠcontrad ict\nĠCol in\nĠredd it\nĠper ipher\n12 2\nĠs ins\nE dit\nIC T\nSo ft\nĠSh ah\nĠadministr ator\nĠT rip\nĠporn ography\nĠtu ition\nin ence\nĠPro gress\nĠcat alog\nĠsu ite\nĠh ike\nĠreprodu ctive\neng ine\nĠd rought\nĠNo ah\nĠ2 30\nĠd ude\nĠrelax ed\nĠpart ition\nĠparticip ant\nĠtel esc\nĠfe as\nĠF F\nown er\nĠswe eping\nĠl enses\nĠmatch up\nĠRe pl\nourn als\nĠcred ible\nĠgrand mother\nĠther mal\nĠsubscrib ing\nĠident ities\ncol m\nU CT\nĠreluct ant\nus ers\nĠC ort\nĠassist ed\nOS S\nATION S\nIS H\nĠpharm aceutical\nic able\nad ian\nĠSon ic\nĠF ury\nĠM ong\nA H\nĠPsych ology\nĠph osph\nĠtreat s\nŃ Ķ\nĠstead ily\nĠHell o\nĠrel ates\nĠcl ue\nEx pl\na uth\nĠrev ision\nĠe ld\nos ion\nĠbr on\n14 4\nri kes\nĠmin es\nĠblank et\nĠF ail\nel ed\nĠIm agine\nĠPl anned\na ic\nRe quest\nM ad\nĠHor se\nĠEag le\nĠcap ac\n15 7\nĠl ing\nĠN ice\nĠP arenthood\nmin ster\nog s\nens itive\nNot hing\nĠcar n\nF in\nĠP E\nĠr ifles\nĠL P\nS and\nĠgui Active\nĠtour ist\nC NN\nĠunve iled\nĠpredec essor\n} {\nu ber\nĠoff shore\nĠopt ical\nĠR ot\nĠPear l\net on\nĠst ared\nĠfart her\nat ility\ncont in\nĠG y\nĠF oster\nĠC oc\nri ents\nĠdesign ing\nĠEconom y\nON G\nW omen\nĠN ancy\ner ver\nĠmas cul\nĠcasual ties\nĠ2 25\nĠS ullivan\nĠCh oice\nĠa ster\nw s\nĠhot els\nĠconsider ations\nĠcou ch\nĠSt rip\nĠG n\nĠmanip ulate\nl ied\nĠsynt hetic\nĠassault ed\nĠoff enses\nĠDra ke\nĠim pe\nOct ober\nĠHer itage\nh l\nĠBl air\nUn like\nĠg rief\nĠ4 50\nĠopt ed\nĠresign ation\nil o\nĠver se\nĠT omb\nĠu pt\nĠa ired\nĠH ook\nĠML B\nĠassum es\nout ed\nĠV ers\nĠinfer ior\nĠbund le\nĠD NS\nograp her\nĠmult ip\nĠSoul s\nĠillust rated\nĠtact ic\nĠdress ing\nĠdu o\nCon f\nĠrel ent\nĠc ant\nĠscar ce\nĠcand y\nĠC F\nĠaffili ated\nĠspr int\nyl an\nĠGarc ia\nĠj unk\nPr int\nex ec\nC rit\nĠport rait\nir ies\nĠOF F\nĠdisp utes\nW R\nL ove\nãģ Ħ\nĠRe yn\nĠh ipp\nop ath\nĠflo ors\nĠFe el\nĠwor ries\nĠsett lements\nĠP os\nĠmos que\nĠfin als\nĠcr ushed\nĠPro bably\nĠB ot\nĠM ans\nĠPer iod\nĠsovere ignty\nĠsell er\nĠap ost\nĠam ateur\nĠd orm\nĠconsum ing\nĠarm our\nĠRo ose\nĠint ensive\nĠelim inating\nĠSun ni\nĠAle ppo\nj in\nĠadv ise\np al\nĠH alo\nĠdes cent\nĠsimpl er\nĠbo oth\nST R\nL ater\nĠC ave\n== =\nĠm ol\nĠf ist\nĠshot gun\nsu pp\nĠrob bery\nE ffect\nĠobsc ure\nĠProf essional\nĠemb assy\nĠmilit ant\nĠinc arcer\nĠgener ates\nĠlaun ches\nĠadministr ators\nĠsh aft\nĠcirc ular\nĠfresh man\nĠW es\nĠJo el\nĠD rew\nĠDun can\nĠApp arently\ns ight\nĠIntern al\nĠInd ividual\nĠF E\nĠb ore\nĠM t\nĠbroad ly\nĠO ptions\nount ain\nip es\nĠV ideos\n20 4\nĠh ills\nĠsim ulation\nĠdisappoint ment\nit an\nĠLabor atory\nĠup ward\nĠbound ary\nĠdark er\nh art\nĠdomin ance\nC ong\nĠOr acle\nĠL ords\nĠscholars hip\nĠVin cent\ned e\nĠR ah\nĠencour ages\nro v\nĠqu o\nĠprem ise\nĠCris is\nĠHol ocaust\nĠrhyth m\nĠmet ric\ncl ub\nĠtransport ed\nĠn od\nĠP ist\nĠancest ors\nĠFred er\nth umbnails\nĠC E\nON D\nPh il\nven ge\nĠProduct s\ncast le\nĠqual ifying\nĠK aren\nVERTIS EMENT\nĠmight y\nĠexplan ations\nĠfix ing\nD i\nĠdecl aring\nĠanonym ity\nĠju ven\nĠN ord\nĠDo om\nĠAct ually\nO k\nph is\nĠDes ert\nĠ11 6\nI K\nĠF M\nĠinc omes\nV EL\nok ers\nĠpe cul\nĠlight weight\ng ue\nĠacc ent\nĠincre ment\nĠCh an\nĠcompl aining\nĠB aghd\nĠmidfield er\nĠover haul\nPro cess\nĠH ollow\nĠTit ans\nSm all\nman uel\nĠUn ity\nĠEv ents\nS ty\nĠdispro portion\nn esty\nen es\nĠC od\nĠdemonstr ations\nĠCrim son\nĠO H\nĠen rolled\nĠc el\nĠBre tt\nĠa ide\nĠhe els\nĠbroad band\nĠmark ing\nĠw izard\nĠN J\nĠChief s\nĠingred ient\nĠd ug\nĠSh ut\nurch ase\nend or\nĠfar mer\nĠGold man\n12 9\n15 5\nOr der\nĠl ion\ni ably\nĠst ain\nar ray\nilit ary\nĠFA Q\nĠexpl oded\nĠMcC arthy\nĠT weet\nĠG reens\nek ing\nl n\nens en\nĠmotor cycle\nĠpartic le\nĠch olesterol\nB ron\nĠst air\nĠox id\nĠdes irable\nib les\nĠthe or\nfor cing\nĠpromot ional\nov o\nb oot\nĠBon us\nraw ling\nĠshort age\nĠP sy\nĠrecru ited\nĠinf ants\nĠtest osterone\nĠded uct\nĠdistinct ive\nĠfirm ware\nbu ilt\n14 5\nĠexpl ored\nĠfact ions\nĠv ide\nĠtatt oo\nĠfinan cially\nĠfat igue\nĠproceed ing\nconst itutional\nĠmis er\nĠch airs\ngg ing\nipp le\nĠd ent\nĠdis reg\nç Ķ\nst ant\nll o\nb ps\naken ing\nĠab normal\nĠE RA\nå£ «\nĠH BO\nĠM AR\nĠcon cess\nĠserv ant\nĠas pir\nl av\nĠPan el\nam o\nĠprec ip\nĠrecord ings\nĠproceed ed\nĠcol ony\nĠT ang\nab lo\nĠstri pped\nLe ft\nto o\nĠpot atoes\nĠfin est\n% ).\nĠc rap\nĠZ ach\nab ases\nĠG oth\nĠbillion aire\nw olf\nĠsan ction\nS K\nĠlog ged\nP o\ney ed\nun al\nĠcr icket\nĠarm ies\nĠunc overed\nCl oud\nó n\nĠreb ounds\nĠm es\nO per\nP ac\nĠnation ally\nĠinsert ed\np ict\nĠgovern ance\nÐ ¸\nĠprivile ges\nG ET\nĠfavor ites\nim ity\nĠlo ver\nthe m\nem pl\nĠgorge ous\nAn n\nĠsl ipped\nĠve to\nB ob\nĠsl im\nu cc\nĠF ame\nudden ly\nĠden ies\nĠM aur\nĠdist ances\nĠw anna\nt ar\nĠS ER\nĠâ Ī\nĠle mon\nat hetic\nĠlit eral\nĠdistingu ished\nĠansw ering\nG I\nĠrelig ions\nĠPhil os\nĠL ay\nĠcomp os\nire ments\nĠK os\nine z\nroll ing\nĠyoung est\nand ise\nĠB orn\nĠalt ar\nam ina\nĠB oot\nv oc\nĠdig ging\nĠpress ures\nĠl en\n26 4\nĠassass ination\nĠBir mingham\nĠMy th\nĠsovere ign\nĠArt ist\nĠPhot ograph\nĠdep icted\nĠdisp ens\north y\nĠamb ul\nint eg\nĠC ele\nĠTib et\nĠhier archy\nĠc u\nĠpre season\nĠPet erson\nĠcol ours\nĠworry ing\nĠback ers\nĠPal mer\nĠÎ ¼\nĠcontribut or\nĠhear ings\nĠur ine\nĠ Ù\nourge ois\nSim ilar\nĠZ immer\ns omething\nĠUS C\nĠstrength s\nĠF I\nĠlog ging\nAs ked\nĠTh ai\nin qu\nĠW alt\nĠcrew s\nit ism\n3 01\nĠshar ply\num ed\nĠred irect\nr ators\nIn f\nĠWe apons\nĠte asp\n19 99\nL ive\nĠEs pecially\nĠS ter\nĠVeter ans\nĠint ro\nother apy\nĠmal ware\nĠbre eding\nĠmole cular\nĠR oute\nĠCom ment\noc hem\nĠa in\nSe ason\nĠlineback er\nÄ «\nĠEconom ics\nes ar\nĠL ives\nĠEm ma\nĠk in\nĠTer rit\nĠpl anted\not on\nĠBut ter\nĠSp ons\nP ER\nĠdun geon\nĠsymb olic\nĠfil med\nĠdi ets\nĠconclud es\nĠcertain ty\nĠForm at\nĠstr angers\nform at\nĠPh ase\nĠcop ied\nĠmet res\nld a\nĠUs ers\nĠdeliber ate\nĠwas hed\nĠL ance\nim ation\nĠimpro per\nĠGen esis\nick r\nĠK ush\nĠreal ise\nĠembarrass ing\nalk ing\nb ucks\nĠver ified\nĠout line\nyear s\nĠIn come\n20 2\nĠz ombies\nF inal\nĠMill enn\nĠmod ifications\nĠV ision\nĠM oses\nver b\niter ranean\nĠJ et\nĠnav al\nĠA gg\nĠur l\nĠvict ories\nĠnon etheless\nĠinj ust\nĠF act\nç ļ\nĠins ufficient\nre view\nface book\nĠnegoti ating\nĠguarant ees\nim en\nuten berg\nĠg ambling\nĠcon gr\nLoad ing\nĠnever theless\nĠpres idents\nĠIndust rial\nĠ11 8\nĠp oured\nĠT ory\nĠ17 5\nĠ: =\nSc ott\nange red\nT ok\nĠorgan izers\nM at\nĠG rowth\nĠad ul\nĠens ures\nĠ11 7\né¾į å\nĠmass acre\nĠgr ades\nbe fore\nAD VERTISEMENT\nĠSl ow\nĠM MA\nâĢĶ \"\nĠV atican\nQ aeda\nĠo we\n66 66\nĠS orry\nĠGr ass\nĠbackground s\nĠexha usted\nĠcl an\nĠcomprom ised\nĠE lf\nĠIsa ac\nens on\nIn vest\nIF A\nĠinterrupt ed\nãĥī ãĥ©\nĠtw isted\nĠDrag ons\nM ode\nĠK remlin\nĠfert il\nhe res\nph an\nĠN ode\nf ed\nĠOr c\nĠunw illing\nC ent\nĠprior it\nĠgrad uates\nĠsubject ive\nĠiss uing\nĠL t\nĠview er\nĠw oke\nTh us\nbro ok\nĠdep ressed\nĠbr acket\nĠG or\nĠFight ing\nĠstri ker\nRep ort\nĠPortug al\nĠne o\nw ed\n19 9\nĠflee ing\nsh adow\nident ified\nUS E\nSte am\nĠstret ched\nĠrevel ations\nart ed\nĠD w\nĠalign ment\nest on\nĠJ ared\nS ep\nĠblog s\nup date\ng om\nr isk\nĠcl ash\nĠH our\nĠrun time\nĠunw anted\nĠsc am\nĠr ack\nĠen light\non est\nĠF err\nĠconv ictions\nĠp iano\nĠcirc ulation\nĠW elcome\nĠback lash\nĠW ade\nĠrece ivers\not ive\nJ eff\nĠnetwork ing\nĠPre p\nĠExpl orer\nĠlect ure\nĠupload ed\nĠMe at\nB LE\nĠNaz is\nĠSy nd\nst ud\nro ots\nri ans\nĠportray ed\nĠ ??\nĠBudd ha\ns un\nRober t\nĠCom plex\nĠover see\nĠste alth\nT itle\nĠJ obs\nĠK um\nĠappreci ation\nĠM OD\nĠbas ics\nĠcl ips\nĠnurs ing\nĠpropos ition\nĠreal ised\nĠNY C\nĠall ocated\nri um\nar an\nĠPro duction\nĠV ote\nĠsm ugg\nĠhun ter\naz er\nĠCh anges\nĠfl uct\ny on\nAr ray\nĠk its\nW ater\nĠuncom mon\nĠrest ing\nell s\nw ould\nĠpurs ued\nĠassert ion\nomet own\nĠMos ul\nĠPl atform\nio let\nĠshare holders\nĠtra ils\nP ay\nĠEn forcement\nty pes\nĠAn onymous\nĠsatisf ying\nil ogy\nĠ( '\nw ave\nc ity\nSte ve\nĠconfront ation\nĠE ld\nC apt\nah an\nht m\nĠC trl\nON S\n2 30\nif a\nhold ing\nĠdelic ate\nĠj aw\nĠGo ing\nor um\nS al\nĠd ull\nĠB eth\nĠpr isons\nĠe go\nĠEl sa\navor ite\nĠG ang\nĠN uclear\nĠsp ider\nats u\nĠsam pling\nĠabsor bed\nĠPh arm\niet h\nĠbuck et\nĠRec omm\nO F\nĠF actory\nAN CE\nĠb acter\nH as\nĠObs erv\n12 1\nĠprem iere\nDe velop\nĠcur rencies\nC ast\nĠaccompany ing\nĠNash ville\nĠfat ty\nĠBre nd\nĠloc ks\nĠcent ered\nĠU T\naugh s\nor ie\nĠAff ordable\nv ance\nD L\nem et\nĠthr one\nĠBlu etooth\nĠn aming\nif ts\nAD E\nĠcorrect ed\nĠprompt ly\nĠST R\nĠgen ome\nĠcop e\nĠval ley\nĠround ed\nĠK end\nal ion\np ers\nĠtour ism\nĠst ark\nv l\nĠblow ing\nĠSche dule\nst d\nĠunh appy\nĠlit igation\nced es\nĠand roid\nĠinteg ral\nere rs\nud ed\nt ax\nĠre iter\nĠMot ors\noci ated\nĠwond ers\nĠAp ost\nuck ing\nĠRoose velt\nf ram\nĠyield s\nĠconstit utes\naw k\nInt erest\nĠinter im\nĠbreak through\nĠC her\nĠpro sec\nĠD j\nĠM T\nRes p\nĠP T\nĠs perm\ned it\nB T\nLin ux\ncount ry\nle ague\nĠd ick\nĠo ct\nĠinsert ing\nĠsc ra\nĠBrew ing\nĠ19 66\nĠrun ners\nĠpl un\nid y\nĠD ian\nĠdys function\nĠex clusion\nĠdis gr\nĠincorpor ate\nĠrecon c\nĠnom inated\nĠAr cher\nd raw\nachel or\nĠwrit ings\nĠshall ow\nĠh ast\nĠB MW\nĠR S\nĠth igh\nĠ19 63\nĠl amb\nĠfav ored\nag le\nĠcool er\nĠH ours\nĠG U\nĠOrig in\nĠglim pse\n---------------- ----\nL im\nĠche ek\nĠj ealous\n- '\nĠhar ness\nĠPo ison\nĠdis abilities\nne apolis\nĠout look\nĠnot ify\nĠIndian apolis\nĠab rupt\nns ic\nĠenc rypted\nĠfor fe\nreat h\nĠr abb\nĠfound ations\nĠcompl iment\nĠInter view\nĠS we\nĠad olesc\nĠmon itors\nĠSacrament o\nĠtime ly\nĠcontem pl\nĠposition ed\nĠpost ers\nph ies\niov ascular\nv oid\nĠFif th\nĠinvestig ative\nOU N\nĠinteg rate\nĠIN C\nish a\nibl ings\nĠRe quest\nĠRodrig uez\nĠsl ides\nĠD X\nĠfemin ism\nĠdat as\nĠb end\nir us\nĠNig eria\nF ox\nCh ange\nĠair plane\nĠLad en\nĠpublic ity\nixt y\nĠcommit ments\nĠaggreg ate\nĠdisplay ing\nĠAr row\nĠ12 2\nĠrespect s\nand roid\ns ix\nĠSh a\nĠrest oration\n) \\\nW S\noy s\nĠillust rate\nwith out\n12 6\nĠâĶ Ĥ\nĠpick up\nn els\nĠ ....\nf ood\nĠF en\n) ?\nĠphenomen a\nĠcompan ions\nĠW rite\nĠsp ill\nĠbr idges\nĠUp dated\nĠF o\nĠinsect s\nASH INGTON\nĠsc 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inth\nĠener g\nĠvalid ity\nĠup s\nj ack\nĠneighbor ing\nĠN ec\new orks\nĠH ab\nare z\nĠsp ine\nĠevent ual\nĠLe aders\nĠC arn\nĠprob ation\nĠrom ance\nms g\nĠMechan ical\nER Y\nR ock\nĠpart isan\nN ode\nass ets\nmin ent\nĠforeign ers\nĠtest ify\nĠUs ually\nl ords\nĠG ren\nĠPow ell\nBI L\nĠs r\nĠadd ict\nĠshell s\nĠs igh\nĠY ale\ntern ity\nĠ7 50\nE U\nĠR ifle\nĠpat ron\nem a\nĠB annon\nan ity\nĠtrop ical\nĠV II\nc ross\nEvery thing\nĠIS O\nĠhum ble\nass ing\nĠF IG\nĠupd ating\nys on\nĠcal cium\nĠcompet ent\nĠste ering\nPro t\nĠS Y\nĠFin als\nĠR ug\n15 9\n13 7\nĠG olf\nĠ12 6\nĠaccommod ation\nĠHug hes\nĠaest hetic\nart isan\nĠTw ilight\nĠpr ince\nĠAgric ulture\nĠDis co\nĠpreced ent\nĠtyp ing\nauthor ized\nO ption\nĠA ub\nl ishes\nach t\nm ag\nP eter\nĠU FO\nmont on\nĠL ith\nĠa rom\nĠsec uring\nĠconf ined\npriv ate\nĠsw ords\nĠmark ers\nĠmetab olic\nse lect\nĠCur se\nĠO t\ng ressive\nĠinc umb\nĠS aga\nĠpr iced\nĠclear ance\nCont ent\nĠdr illing\nĠnot ices\nĠb ourgeois\nĠv est\nĠcook 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ieval\nfol k\nĠh acked\nĠd ire\nĠHerm ione\nĠt ended\nce ans\nD aniel\nw ent\nĠlegisl ators\nĠred es\ng ames\nĠg n\nam iliar\nĠ+ +\ngg y\nth reat\nĠmag net\nĠper ceive\nĠz ip\nĠindict ment\nĠcrit ique\ng ard\nĠSaf e\nĠC ream\nĠad vent\nob a\nĠv owed\nous ands\nĠsk i\nĠabort ions\nu art\nĠstun ned\nĠadv ancing\nĠlack ed\nĠ\\ \"\nĠsch izophren\nĠeleg ant\nĠconf erences\nĠcance led\nĠHud son\nĠHop efully\nĠtr ump\nĠfrequ encies\nĠmet eor\nĠJun ior\nĠFle et\nĠMal colm\nĠT ools\nĠ ........\nĠh obby\nĠEurope ans\nĠ15 00\nĠInt o\nĠs way\nĠApp ro\nĠCom pl\nComm unity\nĠt ide\nĠSum mit\nä »\nĠinter vals\nĠE ther\nĠhabit at\nĠSteven s\nlish ing\nĠDom ain\nĠtrig gers\nĠch asing\nĠchar m\nĠFl ower\nit ored\nĠbless ing\nĠtext ures\nF ive\nĠliqu or\nR P\nF IN\nĠ19 62\nC AR\nUn known\nĠres il\nĠL ily\nĠabund ance\nĠpredict able\nr ar\nĠbull shit\nle en\nche t\nM or\nM uch\nä ¹\nĠemphas ized\nĠcr ust\nĠprim itive\nĠenjoy able\nĠPict ures\nĠteam mate\npl er\nĠT ol\nĠK ane\nĠsummon ed\nth y\nram a\nĠH 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ername\nĠImpro ve\nĠbatt ling\nĠM AC\nĠcurric ulum\nĠs oda\nĠC annon\nĠsens ible\nsp ons\nDe cember\nĠw icked\nĠP engu\nĠdict ators\nĠHe arts\nog yn\nĠsimilar ities\nĠSt ats\nĠh ollow\nit ations\n\": [\nĠh over\nĠList en\ns ch\nS und\nĠc ad\nĠPar ks\nĠl ur\nĠhy pe\nĠL em\nN AME\nis ure\nFr iday\nĠshoot s\nĠclos es\nĠd b\nĠR idge\nĠDiff erent\nĠrepl ies\nĠBroad way\nop ers\nĠint oler\nĠZe us\nakes pe\nĠpropri etary\nĠrequest ing\nĠcontro llers\nĠM IN\nim edia\nbe cca\nĠexp ans\nĠoil s\nB ot\nĠCh and\nĠpr inter\nĠto pped\nĠP OL\nĠEar lier\nS ocial\nav in\nĠdecre ases\nĠSe b\nĠspecific ations\nĠBl ast\nĠK urt\nĠfre el\nB rown\nĠdil ig\nro e\nĠPro blem\nĠQu ad\nĠdecent ral\nĠV ector\nan ut\nĠplug ins\nĠGreg ory\nĠfuck ed\nel ines\nĠAmb assador\nt ake\nĠcle ans\nong yang\nAn onymous\nst ro\n\" }\nal ine\nĠO dd\nĠE ug\n2 16\nĠbo il\nĠP owers\nĠnurs es\nOb viously\nĠTechn ical\nĠexceed ed\nOR S\nĠextrem ists\nĠtr aces\nex pl\nĠcom r\nĠS ach\n) /\nĠm asks\nĠsc i\nB on\nĠreg ression\nwe gian\nĠadvis or\nit ures\nĠV o\nex ample\nĠInst ruct\nĠs iege\nĠredu ctions\npt r\nĠstat utory\nĠrem oves\nĠp uck\nred its\nĠbe e\nĠsal ad\nĠpromot ions\nĠJosh ua\nwith standing\nET H\nĠCh a\nim us\nĠexpend iture\naun ting\nĠdelight ed\nĠ15 5\nbe h\nĠcar pet\nĠSp art\nĠj ungle\nl ists\nĠbull ying\nĠNob el\nĠGl en\nĠreferen ced\nĠintrodu ces\nse in\nĠcho pped\ngl ass\nĠW rest\nĠneutral ity\nĠâ Ļ\nĠinvestig ator\nĠshel ves\nĠun constitutional\nĠreprodu ction\nĠmer chant\nm ia\nĠmet rics\nĠexplos ives\nĠSon ia\nĠbod ily\nĠthick ness\nĠpredomin antly\nĠAb ility\nĠmon itored\nIC H\nĠ] .\nĠMart inez\nĠvis ibility\nĠqu eries\nĠgen ocide\nĠWar fare\nQu ery\nĠstud ios\nĠemb ry\nĠcorrid or\nĠclean ed\ncom plete\nĠM H\nĠenroll ment\nING S\nĠimpact ed\nĠdis astrous\nĠY un\nĠCl aire\nĠBas ically\ny t\nuster ity\nĠindirect ly\nw ik\nĠd od\nĠCar r\nĠam p\nĠprohib it\nĠIn itial\nĠR d\nij i\nĠeduc ate\nc orn\ni ott\nĠBeaut y\nĠdetect ive\nĠCon n\ns ince\nĠst agger\nĠob ese\nĠb ree\nolog ic\nis se\nwalk 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hran\nĠl ining\nĠfree zing\nĠEnt ity\nĠins piring\nspe cial\npr ice\nĠsu e\nĠP orter\noun ge\nET A\nĠD erek\nĠLu is\nu o\nym ph\nĠex terior\nih il\nĠAsh ley\nin ator\nĠnut rients\nĠTh rones\nĠfin ances\nĠIn spect\nĠspe cially\nĠRequ ired\nĠP TS\nĠViol ence\noint ed\nsh ots\nĠex cerpt\nco on\nIN S\nĠG ri\nĠrecogn ised\nWe ek\nYou ng\nĠv om\nis le\nĠCur ry\nĠBudd h\nĠnot ebook\nĠd urable\n/ ?\nĠG ad\nĠP upp\nĠforg ive\np ark\nĠpersonal ities\nan alysis\ncl amation\nĠelev ator\nĠware house\nĠR ole\nun n\nĠillust ration\nĠSc an\nĠatmosp heric\nIm port\nAN C\nrict ed\nf u\n01 0\nĠar che\nĠreward ed\nakespe are\nĠintern ally\nĠR BI\nalk er\nĠeleph ant\now itz\nĠP izza\nĠbip artisan\né s\nĠslow ed\nĠSt ark\nĠover ride\nOU S\nĠ3 20\nundred s\nĠDe ck\nĠC ensus\nbe e\n14 6\not or\nĠ ip\nĠu b\noc ations\nĠBut ton\nr ice\nĠc ripp\nff f\nĠorig inated\nĠoverwhel med\napp a\nĠfore most\nâĢ ij\nĠL EG\nre lease\neat ured\nat ches\nĠre ps\nĠl ending\nĠRe ference\nĠCl ient\n16 5\nvent h\nCom plete\nĠPat rol\nĠsw orn\nc am\nĠshut tle\nĠR alph\nĠh ometown\n- ,\non al\nĠB P\nå ı\nĠpersu ade\nĠAlex and\nĠcomb ines\nĠv ivid\nĠL ag\nĠenc oding\nĠsal vation\nw en\nĠRec overy\ni ya\nUn iversity\nĠB iden\nĠbud gets\nĠTex ans\nf its\nĠhon ored\nĠp ython\nT D\n## #\ncl one\nĠbl ink\nĠL iquid\nĠunemploy ed\nĠcl ashes\nĠCoun sel\nĠdirect ing\nĠpun ct\nĠFal cons\nĠsh ark\nĠDam ascus\nĠje ans\nĠemb ark\nĠse ize\nĠup wards\n2 80\nĠE z\nĠAny thing\nĠex otic\nl ower\nĠCreat or\nĠU m\nĠsubur bs\nber ger\nĠW end\nĠm int\nĠX X\nĠD ro\nĠsuff ers\nĠher b\nt ree\nĠfrag ile\nĠflood ed\nĠAl cohol\nole an\nny der\nĠK O\nF ram\nĠ13 6\nĠow ed\nĠMe lee\nĠH ash\nĠwh isk\nĠsu do\nr r\nQu ick\napp ro\nĠi i\nĠEx amples\nhe e\nĠpromot es\nper ature\nk ar\nĠHon or\nĠs odium\nĠL if\nros so\nintend ent\nĠcorrespond ent\nF ound\nsec ret\nĠident ifies\nag ne\nĠl ou\nĠP P\nĠcoinc idence\nm ove\nĠmilit ia\nĠinf iltr\nĠPrim ary\nĠpitch ing\nĠI b\nĠGO OD\nãĤ ¸\nĠW izards\nir al\nĠVen us\nR R\nĠâĢ ķ\nĠCase y\nĠsad ly\nĠadm ire\nĠembarrass ed\nc b\nM el\nĠtub es\nĠbeaut ifully\nĠQueens land\nBel ow\nre z\nqu et\nple asant\nĠ «\nC amp\nĠdec isive\n19 98\nĠL amb\nut ton\nh n\nĠJ agu\nau nder\nĠC ord\nĠcl erk\nĠca ffe\nĠwip ed\nĠre im\nĠMount ains\nĠimprison ed\nĠdevelop s\nĠP ra\nĠmodel ing\nAny one\nance l\nĠS it\nĠshield s\nĠl awn\nĠcard iovascular\nĠdemonstr ating\nĠpar se\nĠIsrael is\nĠeuro s\n14 3\nĠgl orious\nins ki\nec d\nĠcondition ing\nĠhel pless\nĠmicro sc\nĠHar bor\nĠst akes\nĠ2 60\nĠun equ\nĠFl oyd\nĠd amp\nĠappar atus\nĠLaw s\nĠcoun ters\nĠindu ce\nat able\nĠAh med\nĠsl am\nN ovember\nĠpers ist\nĠim minent\ná n\nĠsh red\nĠph ases\nĠEd monton\nĠArm strong\nĠMe et\nĠK itty\nÑ Ģ\nc irc\nĠAd ult\nĠa rose\nĠX en\nD an\ng ow\nĠsuper f\nĠAd mir\nĠend ure\nĠkey word\nyr us\nĠy arn\nĠpath way\nĠHop kins\nmid t\nĠcens orship\nd ependent\nĠinstruct or\nS ources\nĠto e\nĠball oon\nN ob\nĠsw ear\nĠCast ro\nĠgl oss\nĠK avanaugh\nĠremark ably\nPh otos\nĠN om\nĠS outheast\ny ers\nĠvalid ation\nĠcann on\nĠVict ory\nĠPier re\nĠcaut ious\nAud io\nĠf etch\nĠG ift\nĠH yp\nĠrem edy\nZ E\nĠsc ent\nĠbe ard\nĠR ut\n- \"\nĠpat ents\nH y\nĠun just\nĠpot ato\nĠforth coming\nĠche f\nĠR ift\naff e\nĠR OM\nĠL aunch\nĠp ads\nĠNe o\nĠon set\nĠsquee ze\ns afe\nĠpref ix\nĠT M\nĠN early\nĠClin ical\nĠM ental\not iation\nĠUn ic\nant ry\nĠC ir\nĠep it\nà ¦\nĠextract ed\nverse ly\nri ad\nĠstr ains\nĠto ps\nĠpo em\nĠRand y\nĠMap le\nTH ER\nup iter\nĠSS D\nļ é\nĠun con\nper ing\nĠsle pt\nin ers\nĠunder water\nĠEv idence\ng one\n20 5\nĠhistor ians\nĠsynt hesis\nĠf rog\nb asketball\nĠvibr ant\nĠsub ord\nĠ3 65\nĠD ial\nĠcooper ate\nHA HA\nĠgreet ed\n15 8\nĠj azz\nĠinto x\nĠWalk ing\nĠsuper visor\nĠF usion\nĠMer cedes\ns end\nH am\ns d\nn l\nĠtour s\nĠF IFA\nĠcul p\ng d\n30 4\nĠple as\nĠillust rates\nĠColomb ia\nĠhighlight ing\nĠSum mary\nĠexp osing\nĠD ru\nĠir ony\nr itional\nĠCar roll\nĠEll is\nP ict\nĠR apt\nĠad apter\nĠun m\nĠcor pse\nĠceleb rities\nD en\nat um\nĠAp ocalypse\nĠW ag\nlin ing\nĠhorm ones\nR ub\nĠX i\nĠV aults\n20 8\nalky rie\ninos aur\nĠfeed s\nv ity\nĠdefe ating\nW ait\nĠemphas ize\nĠSteel ers\nyr inth\nle ys\nĠWhe never\nCurrent ly\nĠCl ock\nĠcollect ively\nany on\nĠJ P\nĠment ality\nĠdownload s\nĠsurround ings\nĠBarn es\nĠflags hip\nĠindic ators\nĠgra pp\nJan uary\nĠElement al\nĠAthen a\nib al\nĠs ights\nĠcap ita\nĠTreat y\nĠvo iced\nĠG az\nlet te\nĠy a\nĠexp ired\nLeg end\nH ot\nn ature\nĠunst able\nĠ2 80\nà º\nCom ment\nAL E\nĠquest s\nĠhand ler\nn is\nĠvers atile\nĠconce al\nenge ance\nĠInter active\nĠobs essed\nĠDog s\nĠcr acked\nS ound\ns v\nĠD ylan\nro ads\nf x\nĠCath olics\nĠH ag\nĠsl ammed\nĠgl owing\ns ale\nĠtiss ues\nĠCh i\nne e\nĠc her\ns ic\nur rection\nĠb acon\nul atory\n) .\"\nĠir regular\nFOR M\nass ed\nĠintention al\nĠcompens ate\nĠSpe aking\nĠS ets\n15 3\nĠconvent ions\nb ands\nem ade\nĠe cc\nĠWin ston\nĠAssass in\nĠBelg ian\nĠdepend ence\nĠnic he\nĠb ark\nĠJ azz\nĠdisadvant age\nĠgas oline\nĠ16 5\nçļ Ħ\ness a\nmod ule\nang ular\nO Y\nĠTreat ment\nit as\nol ation\nĠArn old\nĠfe ud\nĠN est\nĠthe atre\new ater\nĠmin ors\nolic y\nĠH aven\ndiv ision\nĠtr unk\nF ar\nĠP ull\nĠcapt uring\nĠ18 00\nĠTe en\nĠex empl\nĠclin ics\nĠB urg\nĠsubst it\nĠpay load\nĠL av\nĠT roy\nĠW itness\nĠfrag ments\nĠpass words\nĠg ospel\nĠG in\nĠten ants\nol ith\nS ix\nPre vious\nĠAg es\nĠDar win\nĠbl at\nĠem pathy\nsm ith\nb ag\nĠE cho\nĠC amb\nĠM add\nĠB oo\nĠred e\nĠBurn ing\nĠsmooth ly\nĠAd rian\nĠV ampire\nĠMon sters\nste am\nSty le\nM a\nre a\nĠD war\naly st\nurs or\nĠelim ination\nĠcrypt o\nch t\nĠE ternal\nâĢ¦ ]\nĠS orce\nI ll\nN ER\nĠu h\nCon clusion\nw age\nĠresp ir\nĠrem inis\nhet ical\nĠg y\nĠutil ized\nic idal\nĠ19 00\nĠhun ters\nĠSw an\nĠRe act\nĠvis itor\nĠThanks giving\n30 8\nPost s\nĠh ips\n19 97\nom ers\nĠkn ocking\nĠVeh icle\nĠt il\nĠ13 8\nĠm i\nĠInvest igation\nĠKen ya\nĠcas ino\nĠmot ives\nĠreg ain\nre x\nĠweek ends\nĠstab bed\nbor o\nĠexplo ited\nĠHA VE\nĠTe levision\nc ock\nĠprepar ations\nĠende av\nĠRem ote\nĠM aker\nĠPro du\nĠEv an\nĠinform ational\nĠLouis ville\n15 4\nĠDream s\nĠpl ots\nĠRun ner\nĠhur ting\nĠacad emy\nĠMont gomery\nn m\nĠL anc\nĠAl z\n2 10\nel ong\nĠretail er\nĠar ising\nĠrebell ion\nĠbl onde\nplay ed\nĠinstrument al\nC ross\nĠret ention\nĠtherape utic\nĠse as\nĠinfant ry\nĠCl int\nĠprompt ing\nĠbit ch\nĠst ems\nĠK ra\nĠthe sis\nĠB og\nru ed\nĠk ings\nĠcl ay\nific ent\nĠY ES\nĠTh ing\nĠCub s\nvey ard\nels h\nin arily\nĠE y\nĠRoll ing\nĠev olving\nInd ia\nĠrecogn izes\nĠgrad uation\nis ers\nĠfert ility\nĠMil an\nComm and\nĠbox ing\nĠ19 43\nĠgl uten\nĠEm ir\nĠid ol\nĠcon ceived\nĠCre ation\nMer it\nudd y\nuss ions\nĠLie utenant\niet al\nĠunch anged\nĠSc ale\nĠCrime a\nball s\nator ial\nĠdepth s\nĠempir ical\nĠtrans m\nĠuns afe\nmiss ible\ncom fort\n15 6\nĠmechan ic\n00 2\nl ins\nĠsm oked\nP os\nĠslow ing\nĠl av\nTex as\nĠche ating\nĠMet ropolitan\neth yl\nĠdiscover ing\nas se\nĠpen cil\nĠPy ongyang\nĠclos et\nĠShe et\nĠEnt ry\nou stic\nĠmy st\ner ate\nari at\nĠminer als\nĠmusic ian\nĠP ul\nĠM az\n24 9\nĠper missions\nĠ iv\nen ary\nick ers\nĠB ing\nhe a\nen able\nĠgri ev\nĠassert ed\nĠColon el\nĠaff idav\nw o\nĠse ated\nĠR ide\nĠpaint ings\nĠP ix\nĠ13 7\nish i\numb ai\ng otten\nĠEar l\nĠin ning\nĠc ensus\nĠtrave lled\nĠCons ult\n18 5\nb ind\nĠsimpl icity\nĠoverlook ed\nĠHelp ful\nĠmon key\nĠoverwhelming ly\nBl ood\nĠFl int\nĠJ ama\nĠPres ent\nĠR age\nĠT A\npt ive\nĠturn out\nw ald\nĠD olphins\nĠV PN\nĠon ion\nĠcraft ing\nm ma\nĠMerc ury\nĠarr ange\nĠalert s\nĠO T\nzb ollah\nĠg ases\nĠRichards on\ns al\nl ar\nĠfro st\nĠlower ing\nĠacc laim\nĠstart ups\nĠG ain\ness ment\nĠguard ian\näº º\nĠP ie\nĠL inks\nĠmer its\nĠaw ake\nĠparent al\nĠexceed s\nĠid le\nĠPil ot\nĠe Bay\nĠAc cept\nipe g\nC am\nĠK ot\nĠtrad ers\nolit ics\nunk er\nĠP ale\nos i\nan mar\nĠ19 47\nĠF ell\nest ial\nit ating\nG F\nĠS r\nif ted\nĠconnect or\nĠB one\nill es\n2 60\nh ma\nĠoverl ap\nĠGit Hub\nĠclean er\nĠBapt ist\nĠW AS\nĠlung s\nÑ ģ\nĠB UT\nĠc ite\nĠpit ched\nreat ment\nĠtro phies\nĠN u\n38 6\nĠPr ide\nĠattend ees\n[ ]\n17 9\nĠspat ial\nĠpri zes\nĠRel igion\nĠshow case\nĠC ategory\nvid ia\nT arget\nPro perty\n? ,\nĠf usion\np ie\nĠU CLA\nĠsound track\nĠprin cess\nĠC aval\nsh ould\nĠlim bs\nBack ground\nĠlone ly\nĠc ores\nĠT ail\nshe et\nĠ13 2\nR a\nãĤ «\nĠB olt\nĠbook ed\nĠadmin ister\nĠequ als\nw y\nĠobserv ing\nĠBar on\nĠAd obe\nĠv irgin\nĠSocial ist\nM ove\ngh azi\nĠLind a\n2 12\nĠbre wing\nĠmerch ants\nbur se\nĠdiv or\nĠmet als\nĠN er\nĠsum s\nĠEn emy\nĠen vision\nĠgrant ing\nĠH oney\nĠSk yrim\nĠsoc io\ngr aded\nĠselect ive\nW ASHINGTON\nĠ19 48\nĠSir ius\nĠG ross\nact ivity\nĠI van\nĠfur ious\nBS D\nĠPre vious\nĠrespons ive\nĠchar itable\nĠle aning\nĠP ew\nĠviol ates\n\\\\\\\\ \\\\\\\\\nĠCom ing\nw ire\nĠpo et\nĠres olutions\ncomm and\nĠPortug uese\nĠnick name\nĠde af\nFeb ruary\nĠrecogn ise\nĠentire ty\nĠseason al\npl aced\nĠTe legraph\nĠmicro phone\nour ing\nĠgr ains\nĠgovern ed\nĠpost p\nĠW aters\nin ement\nĠund ocumented\nĠCom cast\nĠf ox\nĠassault s\nre on\nman y\nĠJen kins\nĠAny way\nĠassess ments\nĠdown s\nĠM ouse\nĠsuper b\nk t\nĠD ow\nĠtax ation\n4 01\nĠsm iles\nĠundert aken\nĠex h\nĠenthusi astic\nĠtw ent\nĠgovernment al\nĠautonom y\nĠTechn ologies\nĠCh ain\nĠpreval ent\nf b\nĠnic otine\nog ram\nj ob\nĠawa iting\nĠMen u\nĠdep uties\nk ov\nish ops\nBut ton\nĠShan ghai\nĠdies el\nĠD uck\nR yan\nĠPC s\nN F\nj ury\nent e\nĠinacc urate\nedd y\nWh atever\nĠshow c\nĠN ad\nod us\net r\nĠplaint iffs\nĠW OR\nĠAss ange\nĠpriv at\nĠpremium s\nĠt am\nUR L\nĠel ites\nĠR anger\notten ham\nĠH off\nĠAt hens\nĠdefin ite\nĠs ighed\nĠeven ly\n2 11\nĠAm ber\nak ia\nĠmail ing\nĠcr ashing\nĠConfeder ate\nru gged\nW al\nĠDep ths\nĠjuven ile\nĠreact or\nIntrodu ction\nĠDel uxe\n19 95\nĠS anchez\nĠM ead\niv able\n: -\nĠPlan ning\nĠT rap\nqu in\nĠProt ect\nve red\nIn formation\nĠkid ney\ninn amon\nl as\nĠpolic ing\nĠtoler ate\nĠQ i\nĠbi ased\nF ort\nĠK i\ns ave\nĠprivile ged\nĠbe asts\nĠGl as\nĠC inem\nĠcome back\nSund ay\nĠext inction\nh ops\nĠtrans mit\nĠdoub les\nĠFl at\n16 7\nĠdis puted\nĠinjust ice\nf oo\nV ict\nrole um\nĠJul ie\nCon text\nĠR arity\niss ue\nComp onent\nĠcounsel ing\nan ne\nd ark\nĠobject ions\nu ilt\nĠg ast\nĠpl ac\nĠun used\nãĥ ĩ\nĠT rial\nĠJ as\nhed ral\nob b\nĠtempor al\nĠPR O\nĠN W\nĠAnn iversary\nL arge\nĠther m\nĠd avid\nĠsystem ic\nĠSh ir\nm ut\nĠNe pt\nadd ress\nĠscan ning\nĠunderstand able\nĠcan vas\nC at\nĠZ oo\nĠang els\nL O\nĠStat ement\nĠS ig\nov able\nĠA way\nsh aring\nocr ats\nst ated\nĠweigh ing\nN or\nw ild\nB ey\nĠaston ishing\nĠReyn olds\nĠop ener\nĠtrain er\nĠsurg ical\np n\nĠadjust ing\nwhe el\nĠf rown\nerv ative\nĠsusp end\nWith in\nte in\nĠobst acle\nĠliber ties\nym es\nĠur anium\nans om\nan ol\nub a\nĠL oss\nĠa rous\nĠHend erson\nW ow\ns pl\nc ur\nĠ Ń\nĠtheir s\nDam age\nĠdownload ing\nĠdisc ern\nĠSt o\nĠFl a\nĠh ath\nĠA j\nĠun pleasant\nEurope an\nexp ensive\nĠscreens hot\nĠU V\nĠall ied\nĠPers ian\nĠmonop oly\nĠat om\nĠReds kins\n\"> <\nĠcan cell\nĠcinem a\n13 1\nf air\nĠAlf red\nĠd uck\narg s\n22 3\nĠIS I\nĠsign aling\nin ar\nĠlaugh s\nĠfor wards\nĠreck less\nĠlisten ers\nat ivity\nĠvast ly\nn ant\nL ess\nĠHun ting\nĠScient ific\nIT ED\nĠkn ight\nĠH TC\nus a\nt mp\nĠr ude\nĠLegend ary\nĠar ises\nB ad\nĠCl aim\npe g\nĠreal ities\nTh ink\nĠ °\nĠro de\nĠstri ve\nĠan ecd\nĠshort s\nĠhypot hes\nĠcoord inated\nĠGand hi\nĠF PS\nR ED\nĠsuscept ible\nĠshr ink\nĠCh art\nHel p\nĠ ion\nde ep\nrib es\nĠK ai\nĠCustom er\nSum mary\nĠc ough\nw ife\nĠl end\nĠposition ing\nĠlot tery\nĠC anyon\nĠf ade\nĠbron ze\nĠKenn y\nĠbo asts\nĠEnh anced\nrec ord\nĠemer gence\nĠa kin\nĠB ert\nit ous\nâĸ ij\nĠst ip\nĠexch anged\nom ore\nals h\nĠreserv oir\nĠstand point\nW M\nĠiniti ate\nĠdec ay\nĠbrew ery\nĠter ribly\nĠmort al\nlev ard\nĠrev is\nN I\nel o\nĠconf ess\nĠMS NBC\nĠsub missions\nCont roller\nĠ20 2\nĠR uth\n} );\nĠAz ure\nĠ .\"\n20 6\nĠMarket ing\nĠl aund\nien cies\nĠrenown ed\nĠT rou\nĠN GO\nble ms\nĠterr ified\nĠwar ns\nĠper t\nĠuns ure\n4 80\nale z\nult z\nĠOut side\nĠst yl\nĠUnder ground\nĠp anc\nĠd ictionary\nĠf oe\nrim inal\nĠNor wegian\nĠj ailed\nĠm aternal\né e\nĠLu cy\nc op\nCh o\nĠuns igned\nĠZe lda\nĠIns ider\nĠContin ued\nĠ13 3\nĠNar uto\nĠMajor ity\n16 9\nĠW o\nãĤ ĵ\nĠpast or\nĠinform al\nÐ ½\nan throp\njo in\nãģ Ĺ\nit ational\nN P\nĠWrit ing\nf n\nĠB ever\n19 5\nĠy elling\nĠdr astically\nĠe ject\nĠne ut\nĠth rive\nĠFre qu\nou x\nĠpossess es\nĠSen ators\nĠD ES\nĠSh akespeare\nĠFran co\nĠL B\nuch i\nĠinc arn\nĠfound ers\nF unction\nĠbright ness\nĠB T\nĠwh ale\nĠThe ater\nm ass\nĠD oll\nS omething\nĠecho ed\nĠHe x\nc rit\naf ia\nĠgodd ess\nĠele ven\nĠPre view\nĠAur ora\nĠ4 01\nuls ive\nĠLog an\nin burgh\nĠCent ers\nĠON LY\nĠA id\nĠparad ox\nĠh urd\nĠL C\nD ue\nc ourt\nĠoff ended\nĠeval uating\nĠMatthew s\nĠto mb\nĠpay roll\nĠextra ction\nĠH ands\nif i\nĠsuper natural\nĠCOM M\n] =\ndog s\nĠ5 12\nĠMe eting\nRich ard\nĠMax imum\nĠide als\nTh ings\nm and\nĠReg ardless\nĠhum ili\nb uffer\nL ittle\nĠD ani\nĠN ak\nĠliber ation\nĠA be\nĠO L\nĠstuff ed\nac a\nind a\nraph ic\nĠmos qu\nĠcampaign ing\nĠoccup y\nS qu\nr ina\nĠW el\nĠV S\nĠphys ic\nĠp uls\nr int\noad ed\nET F\nĠArch ives\nĠven ues\nh ner\nĠTur bo\nĠl ust\nĠappeal ed\nque z\nil ib\nĠTim othy\nĠo mn\nd ro\nĠobs ession\nĠSav age\n19 96\nGl obal\nJ es\n2 14\nĠsl iding\nĠdisapp ro\nĠMag ical\nĠvolunt arily\ng b\nane y\nĠprop het\nĠRe in\nĠJul ia\nĠW orth\naur us\nĠb ounds\nie u\n)) )\nĠcro re\nĠCitiz en\nS ky\nĠcolumn ist\nĠseek ers\nond o\nIS A\nĠL ength\nĠnost alg\nĠnew com\nĠdet rim\nent ric\n3 75\nĠG E\nĠaut op\nĠacadem ics\nApp Data\nĠS hen\nĠid iot\nĠTrans it\nĠteasp oon\nW il\nK O\nĠCom edy\n> ,\nĠpop ulated\nW D\nĠp igs\nĠO culus\nĠsymp athetic\nĠmar athon\n19 8\nĠseiz ure\ns ided\nĠd op\nirt ual\nL and\nĠFl oor\nosa urs\n... ]\nĠl os\nĠsubsid iary\nE Y\nĠPart s\nĠSt ef\nĠJud iciary\nĠ13 4\nĠmir rors\nĠk et\nt imes\nĠneuro log\nĠc av\nĠGu est\nĠtum or\nsc ill\nĠLl oyd\nE st\nĠcle arer\nĠstere otypes\nĠd ur\nnot hing\nRed dit\nĠnegoti ated\n---------------- --------\n23 5\nĠfl own\nĠSe oul\nĠRes ident\nĠS CH\nĠdisappear ance\nĠV ince\ng rown\nĠgrab s\nr il\nĠInf inite\nĠTw enty\nĠpedest rian\nĠjer sey\nĠF ur\nĠInf inity\nĠEll iott\nĠment or\nĠmor ally\nĠob ey\nsec ure\niff e\nĠantib iotics\nang led\nĠFre eman\nĠIntrodu ction\nJ un\nĠm arsh\nic ans\nĠEV ENTS\noch ond\nW all\nicult y\nĠmisdem eanor\nĠl y\nTh omas\nĠRes olution\nĠanim ations\nĠD ry\nĠinter course\nĠNew castle\nĠH og\nĠEqu ipment\n17 7\nĠterrit orial\nĠarch ives\n20 3\nFil ter\nĠMun ich\nĠcommand ed\nĠW and\nĠpit ches\nĠCro at\nĠrat ios\nĠM its\nĠaccum ulated\nĠSpecific ally\nĠgentle man\nacer b\nĠp enn\nĠa ka\nĠF uk\nĠinterven e\nĠRef uge\nĠAlz heimer\nĠsuccess ion\noh an\nd oes\nL ord\nĠsepar at\nĠcorrespond ence\nĠsh iny\nP rior\nĠs ulf\nĠmiser able\nĠded ication\n( ).\nĠspecial ists\nĠdefect s\nĠC ult\nĠX ia\nĠje opard\nĠO re\nAb ility\nĠle ar\nĠamb itions\nĠB MI\nĠArab s\nĠ19 42\nĠpres ervation\nific ate\nĠash amed\nl oss\nĠRest aur\nĠrese mble\nĠen rich\nĠK N\nĠCl an\nfl oat\nĠplay able\nIT T\nĠharm ony\narr ison\nĠWe instein\nw ere\nĠpoison ing\nĠCom put\nĠWord Press\nm ajor\nĠVal ve\nF an\nĠTh row\nĠRom ans\nĠDep ression\nad os\nĠtort ured\nĠbal ancing\nbott om\nĠacqu iring\nĠMon te\nard i\nĠa ura\nĠ# #\nĠStand ing\nĠAtl as\nC F\nĠintr ins\nĠBen ghazi\nĠcamp ing\nĠt apped\nbl ade\nst rous\nĠR abb\nĠW ritten\nt ip\nĠNe igh\nster dam\nĠAll ow\nĠHe aling\nĠR hod\nn um\nĠcaffe ine\nĠPer cent\nĠbo o\nĠapp les\n30 5\nĠwel coming\nĠappl aud\nĠa usterity\n ±\nĠRe ality\nef e\nå ®\nĠsu cks\nĠtab s\nĠPay Pal\nĠback pack\nĠgif ted\nabul ary\nĠSc out\nir teen\nĠch in\nĠo mitted\nĠnegative ly\nĠaccess ing\nĠE arn\nĠambul ance\nĠhead phones\nĠ20 5\nĠRef resh\np resident\nĠKit chen\nĠEnt ered\nĠS nyder\n00 5\nom ical\nĠborrow ed\nĠN em\nĠav iation\nĠst all\nrim ination\nĠuniform s\nit ime\nĠSim mons\nener gy\nab lished\ny y\nqual ified\nĠrall ies\nĠSt uart\nfl ight\nĠgang s\nr ag\nĠv ault\nlu x\nĠCom par\nĠdesign ation\n20 9\nĠJ os\nd ollar\nz ero\nĠwell s\n30 3\nĠconstitu ents\nĠhe ck\nĠc ows\nĠcommand ers\nĠdifferent ial\nĠC atherine\n29 9\nĠval ve\nĠbr ace\nĠperspect ives\nc ert\nf act\nicular ly\nĠMc N\npl anes\nĠint ric\nĠpe as\nov an\nĠtoss ed\nret ch\nĠL opez\nĠunf amiliar\nde ath\nĠA part\nĠCh ang\nĠrelie ved\nrop he\nĠair ports\nĠfre ak\nut il\nM ill\nĠCh in\nĠOw en\nm ale\nĠBro ken\nĠWind s\nro b\nr ising\nĠfire fighters\nĠauthor itarian\nĠ14 8\nBit coin\nex ternal\nĠbrow sers\niche ver\nor ian\nĠun b\nĠpo ke\nĠZ ot\nM id\nĠPop ular\nĠco vert\nĠcont ributes\nĠ6 50\nĠcont ention\nG ate\nĠcons oles\nĠchrom os\nĠI X\nĠvis ually\nĠE isen\nĠjewel ry\nĠdeleg ation\nĠacceler ate\nĠR iley\nĠsl ope\nĠind oor\nit ially\nĠhuge ly\nĠtun nels\nĠfin ed\nĠdirect ive\nĠfore head\nustom ed\nĠsk ate\nMus ic\ng as\nĠrecogn izing\nam bo\nĠover weight\nĠGr ade\nÙ Ĭ\nĠsound ing\nĠlock ing\nĠR EM\nSt ore\nĠexc av\nĠLike wise\nĠL ights\nĠel bow\nĠSupp ly\nw ic\nĠhands ome\n19 94\nC oll\nĠadequ ately\nĠAssoci ate\nĠstri ps\nĠcrack down\nĠmar vel\nĠK un\nĠpass ages\n@@ @@\nĠT all\nĠthought ful\nnames e\nĠprost itution\nbus iness\nĠball istic\nperson al\nc ig\niz ational\nR ound\nĠÂłĠÂł ĠÂłĠÂł\nĠCole man\nĠadm itting\nĠPl ug\nĠbit coins\nĠSu z\nĠfair ness\nĠsupp lier\nĠcatast rophic\nĠHel en\no qu\nM arc\nĠArt icles\ng ie\nĠend angered\nĠdest iny\nĠVol t\nol ia\nax is\nĠche at\nĠun ified\nIC O\nqu ote\n30 2\nĠS ed\nĠsupp ression\nĠanaly zing\nĠsqu at\nĠfig uring\nĠcoordin ates\nĠch unks\nĠ19 46\nĠsub p\nĠw iki\nĠFor bes\nĠJ upiter\nĠE rik\nim er\nĠCom mercial\n\\ )\nĠlegitim acy\nĠd ental\nĠMe an\nĠdefic its\n5 50\nOrig inally\nĠHor ror\nĠcontam ination\nll ah\nĠconf isc\nĠCl are\nT B\nĠF ailed\nan ed\nĠrul er\nĠCont roller\nĠfemin ists\nF ix\ng ay\n20 7\nĠr abbit\nTh ird\nownt own\nĠgl ue\nĠvol atile\nĠsh ining\nĠf oll\nĠimp aired\nĠsup ers\næ Ī\nĠcl utch\nļé ĨĴ\nĠpro let\nĠ( !\nĠy elled\nĠK iev\nĠEr n\nĠSh ock\nK B\nĠsit uated\nqu ery\nĠN as\nĠan nex\nchar acter\nĠHol iday\nĠautom ation\nĠJ ill\nĠRem astered\nĠl inem\nĠwild erness\nĠHor izon\nĠGu inea\nA Z\nĠmain land\nĠsec recy\nLE ASE\nĠp unk\nĠProv ince\n( ),\nSpe ed\nĠhand ing\nĠSeb ast\nS ir\nr ase\nĠj ournals\nĠcon gest\nĠT ut\nir rel\nĠschizophren ia\nĠmis ogyn\nhealth y\nI ron\nĠreact ed\n- $\n25 2\nĠpl ural\nĠpl um\nĠbarg ain\nĠground ed\nf inder\nĠdis se\nĠL az\nO OD\nĠat roc\nF actory\nĠmin ions\nĠo ri\nĠB rave\nĠP RE\nĠMy anmar\nĠH od\nĠexped ition\nĠexpl ode\nĠCo ord\nĠext r\nĠB rief\nĠAD HD\nĠhard core\nfeed ing\nĠd ile\nĠF ruit\nĠvacc ination\nĠM ao\nosp here\nĠcont ests\n- |\nĠf ren\nisp here\nR om\nĠSh arp\nĠTre nd\nĠdis connect\nâĢ¢ âĢ¢\nĠper secution\nEar th\nĠhealth ier\n38 4\nĠc ob\nĠTr inity\nOW S\nAN N\nĠspecial ty\nĠg ru\nĠcooper ative\nwh y\nStart ing\nĠIss ues\nst re\nens or\nĠ18 5\nAd v\n! ?\nĠRe vel\nem ia\nĠH ulk\nĠcelebr ations\nĠS ou\nra ud\nĠKle in\nĠun real\ncon text\nĠpartners hips\nĠadop ting\nt ical\nĠspl ash\nĠHe zbollah\nc ategory\ncycl op\nxt on\nĠD ot\nurd y\nt z\nĠenvelop e\nĠN L\nâ ķ\nĠwhere in\nSpe c\n18 4\nĠte lev\nal iation\nĠmyth s\nå °\nĠrig orous\nĠcommun icating\nĠobser ver\nĠre he\nĠW ash\nĠapolog ized\nĠT in\nĠexpend itures\nwork ers\nd ocument\nĠhes itate\nĠLen in\nĠunpredict able\nĠrenew al\ncl er\nok ia\nĠCON T\nĠpost season\nTok ens\nĠex acerb\nĠbet ting\nĠ14 7\nĠelev ation\nW ood\nĠSol omon\n19 4\n00 4\nout put\nĠredu nd\nĠM umbai\nĠp H\nĠreprodu ce\nĠD uration\nMA X\nĠb og\nC BS\nĠBal ance\nĠS gt\nĠRec ent\nĠc d\nĠpo pped\nĠincomp et\npro p\nay an\ng uy\nPac ific\nĠty r\nĠ{ {\nĠMy stic\nĠD ana\nĠmast urb\nĠge ometry\nà ¢\nĠCor rect\nĠtraject ory\nĠdistract ed\nĠf oo\nĠW elsh\nL uc\nm ith\nĠrug by\nĠrespir atory\nĠtri angle\nĠ2 15\nĠunder graduate\nĠSuper ior\nch anging\n_ -\nĠright ly\nĠrefere e\nĠluc rative\nĠun authorized\nĠresemb les\nĠGN U\nĠDer by\nĠpath ways\nĠL ed\nĠend urance\nĠst int\nĠcollect or\nF ast\nĠd ots\nĠnational s\nĠSec urities\nĠwh ip\nPar am\nĠlearn s\nM agic\nĠdetail ing\nm oon\nĠbroadcast ing\nĠb aked\n26 5\nhol m\nĠS ah\nĠHus sein\nĠCourt esy\n17 4\nĠ14 6\nĠge ographic\npe ace\nĠjud ging\nĠS tern\nB ur\nĠstory line\nG un\nĠSt ick\n24 5\n30 7\nãĤ´ ãĥ³\nĠAdminist rator\nĠbur nt\nĠp ave\nch oes\nEx ec\nĠcamp uses\nRes ult\nĠmut ations\nĠCh arter\nĠcapt ures\nĠcomp ares\nĠbad ge\nS cient\nĠer ad\nier y\no i\nett es\nĠE state\nĠst rap\nĠproud ly\nĠf ried\nĠwithd rawn\nĠV oy\nph ony\nIt ems\nĠP ierce\nb ard\nĠann otation\nant on\nill on\nIm pro\n... )\nĠhapp ier\n---- --\nad just\nĠstaff ers\nĠactiv ism\nĠper f\nĠal right\nN eed\nĠcomm ence\nĠopio id\nĠAm anda\nE s\nĠP ars\nĠK aw\nW orks\n24 8\nĠind o\nt c\nend ant\nĠM oto\nĠlegal ization\nOT E\nĠtask ed\nĠt sp\nĠACT IONS\n16 6\nĠrefres hing\nĠN R\nĠPere z\nĠinfring ement\nS Y\nList en\nin ning\nk u\nĠrot ate\npro gram\nar ah\nDes ign\nĠ( £\nĠst oring\nĠwar rants\nĠjud gement\nĠB rist\nus ually\nph oto\nĠR an\nĠP ine\nĠoutrage ous\nĠValent ine\nlu ence\nĠEvery body\nAl tern\nĠrele vance\nĠtermin ated\nĠd essert\nĠfulf illed\nĠprosecut ed\nĠW ords\nĠm igrant\nĠcultiv ation\nÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤ ÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤ\nidel ity\nĠV ern\nĠLog in\nĠmetaph or\nĠT ip\nĠrecru its\nĠP ig\nrib ing\nĠenthusi asts\nex per\nĠfright ening\nĠH air\nans on\nstr ate\nĠh i\nHe ight\nĠown ing\nn one\nĠdis like\nĠkn ives\npher d\nĠloud ly\nĠAP Is\nDis play\nĠL ac\nĠUS S\nab l\nver ages\nJ ew\nĠ17 2\nĠHist orical\nat oon\nĠPhys ics\nin tern\nĠwarm th\nĠto pp\nD M\nĠgun man\nĠem peror\nod i\nãĥ £\nin atory\nĠR ib\nĠ13 1\nĠSat urn\nĠSh ining\nĠw aking\nQu otes\nĠcomed ian\nen berg\n ½\nĠbelie vers\nĠpaper work\nc ustom\nĠle v\nĠl ament\nĠpour ing\n22 2\np olitical\nĠSupp lement\nm aid\nĠcruel ty\nĠt read\nys ics\nA w\nrit es\nĠmod ifier\nĠP osition\nAd am\nl b\nub s\nĠimper fect\nĠcl usters\nĠEngine er\nĠC herry\nĠinaug uration\nĠS au\nĠembod iment\nĠUn cle\nĠover r\nĠexplos ions\nc ule\nĠPrinc eton\nĠAndre a\nĠincorrect ly\nĠearn est\nĠpil gr\nĠS print\nĠslee ve\nĠhe ars\nĠAm azing\nĠbrow sing\nag in\nĠhom eland\nĠha w\nĠd iving\nist ered\n17 8\nĠbarg aining\nĠArc ade\nĠdeleg ate\nters on\n................................ ................................\nĠJackson ville\n27 5\nĠst agn\nĠad am\nĠSher man\nC B\nĠsub urb\nĠFood s\nĠconver ting\nĠAr ist\nĠch ambers\nl ove\nĠam ino\nĠG an\nĠmad ness\nm c\nĠUS E\ndef ined\nĠul tr\nind ust\nĠw olves\nl ance\nAdd itionally\nĠcr acks\nas ia\nĠRe ason\nĠP ump\nĠaccident al\nĠL aser\nĠR id\nĠinitial ized\nell i\nĠun named\nĠn oun\nĠPass ed\nĠhost age\nĠEth iop\nsh irts\nĠun rel\nĠEmb assy\nĠ19 41\nĠat oms\nĠpur ported\n16 4\nĠF i\nĠgall ons\nĠMon ica\nĠp g\nen ment\nĠsort ed\nĠG ospel\nĠhe ights\nĠtr aced\nĠunder going\nShe ll\nĠs acks\nĠproport ions\nĠhall uc\nF ont\nac et\nĠwar mer\nĠIN TER\nĠgrab bing\nPl ug\nĠreal ization\nĠBur ke\nĠen chant\nAT ER\nĠSe ed\nĠabund ant\nF M\nĠc ivic\nV s\nis i\nĠv ow\nĠre per\nĠPartners hip\nĠpenet ration\nĠax e\nĠsh attered\nĠZ ombies\nĠv inyl\nĠAl ert\ne on\nĠoblig ed\nĠIll ust\nĠPl aza\nĠFront ier\nĠdavid jl\nĠSer ial\nĠH av\nĠNut rition\nB i\nĠâĸ Ī\nĠJ ays\nlin ux\nĠhur ry\nĠv oy\nĠhop eless\nĠSte alth\nĠ ãģ\ness ors\ntt le\nb org\nĠSaf ari\nf ell\nĠw ary\nd ue\nĠAb ove\nH a\nE LL\nĠnot or\nĠW on\nT oo\nĠoccup ations\nĠposs essions\nĠinv iting\nĠpred ators\nĠacceler ated\nĠ15 7\nuter te\nĠC ube\ne ast\nacc ount\nG ive\nĠtrans plant\nred ients\nid able\nĠscreens hots\nĠG und\nĠF S\nĠtravel ers\nĠsens ory\nĠF iat\nĠRock ets\nİ ĭ\n_ {\nF riend\nĠchar ming\nAL S\nĠenjoy ment\nm ph\nĠ5 000\nĠRE G\nÙ Ĩ\nb ia\nĠcomp ilation\nro st\nĠV P\nĠSch ne\n201 9\nĠcop ying\nM ORE\nĠFl ore\nf alls\n2 15\nt otal\nĠdis ciples\nd ouble\nĠexceed ing\nĠsm ashed\nĠconcept ual\nĠRom ania\nĠB rent\nĠI CE\nĠT ou\nĠg rap\nĠn ails\n18 9\nãĥ ĺ\nĠproc ure\ne ur\nĠconfir ming\nĠC ec\naw i\nĠEd en\nĠn g\nĠengine ered\nat ics\nĠhook ed\nĠdisgust ing\nĠMur der\nãĤ ¿\nL ibrary\nĠ16 8\nAl most\nhem atic\nMen u\nĠNot re\nĠJ ur\nĠkidn apped\nĠhack er\nĠJ ade\nĠcreep y\nĠdraw ings\nĠSpons or\nĠcycl ists\nĠGob lin\nĠoptim ized\nĠst aged\nĠMc D\nbet ween\nA ge\nen o\nS ex\nĠW ide\nn ings\nav is\nĠincap able\nĠK ob\nĠreward ing\nĠL one\noles cent\nĠcontract ed\nĠstick y\nJ ose\nB all\nf est\nĠIn put\nĠRec ently\nĠto mat\nsqu are\nApp lication\nĠnit rogen\nĠdupl icate\nĠRec on\nĠD ear\nL ondon\nĠint ra\nĠd ock\nĠout reach\nĠM illion\nĠmamm als\nam pton\nV AL\nĠsn aps\nĠd os\nĠWh ole\nĠRead y\nT ry\nĠWinn ipeg\near ance\nĠinc urred\nren ched\nĠNS W\nil ot\nrain e\nĠc ube\ng ot\nĠrun way\netermin ed\nĠHaw ks\nĠsurviv or\nĠW ish\nĠD in\nĠDE F\nĠV ault\n18 7\nĠmush rooms\nĠcris p\nbe y\nĠDisco very\nĠdevelopment al\nĠparad igm\nĠcha otic\nĠT su\nĠ3 33\nb ons\nĠbacter ial\nĠcomm its\nĠcos mic\nĠme ga\noc ative\nĠP aint\nophob ic\nĠv ain\nĠcar ved\nĠTh ief\nĠG ul\nows hip\nĠc ites\nĠEd inburgh\nĠdimin ished\nĠacknowled ges\nĠK ills\nĠmic row\nĠHer a\nĠsen iors\nĠwhere by\nH op\nat ron\nĠun available\nĠN ate\nĠ4 80\nĠsl ated\nĠRe becca\nĠB attery\nĠgram mar\nĠhead set\nĠcurs or\nĠex cluding\nany e\naunder ing\neb in\nĠfeas ible\nĠPub lishing\nĠLab s\nĠCl iff\nĠFerr ari\nĠp ac\nvis ible\nmark ed\npe ll\nĠpol ite\nĠstagger ing\nĠGal actic\nĠsuper st\nĠpar an\nĠOffic ers\nãĢ ģ\nĠspecific s\nul us\n23 9\nĠP aste\nAM P\nĠPan ama\nĠDe lete\nangu ard\nrest rial\nĠhero ic\nĠD y\nا ÙĦ\nĠincumb ent\nĠcr unch\nt ro\nĠsc oop\nĠblog ger\nĠsell ers\nure n\nĠmedic ines\nĠC aps\nĠAnim ation\nox y\nĠout ward\nĠinqu iries\n22 9\nĠpsych ologist\nĠS ask\nev il\nĠcontam inated\nãĤ ¨\nhe rence\nĠbrand ed\nĠAbd ul\nz h\nĠparagraph s\nĠmin s\nĠcor related\ner b\nĠimp art\nĠmil estone\nĠSol utions\not le\nĠunder cover\nĠmar ched\nĠCharg ers\nf ax\nĠSec rets\nĠr uth\nwe ather\nĠfemin ine\nĠsh am\nĠprest igious\nigg ins\nĠs ung\nhist ory\nett le\ngg ie\nĠout dated\nol and\nĠper ceptions\nĠS ession\nĠDod gers\nu j\nĠE ND\nD oc\nĠdefic iency\nGr and\nĠJ oker\nĠretro spect\nĠdiagn ostic\nĠharm less\nĠro gue\nĠA val\nE qu\nĠtrans c\nĠRoberts on\nĠDep ending\nĠBurn s\niv o\nĠhost ility\nF eatures\nĵ ĺ\nĠdis comfort\nĠL CD\nspec ified\nĠEx pect\n3 40\nĠimper ative\nĠReg ular\nCh inese\nĠstate wide\nĠsy mm\nĠlo ops\nĠaut umn\nN ick\nĠsh aping\nĠqu ot\nĠc herry\nĠCross ref\nè¦ ļéĨĴ\nStand ard\nhe ed\nĠD ell\nĠViet namese\nĠo st\nĠV alkyrie\nO A\nAss ad\nĠreb ound\nĠTra ffic\npl aces\næ ĺ\nĠB uc\n17 2\nĠshel ters\nĠins isting\nĠCertain ly\nĠKenn eth\nĠT CP\nĠpen al\nĠRe play\nhe ard\nĠdial ect\niz a\nĠF Y\nit cher\nĠD L\nĠspir al\nĠquarterback s\nĠh ull\nĠgo ogle\nĠto dd\nĠSter ling\nĠPl ate\nĠsp ying\nmb ol\nĠReal m\nĠPro ced\nĠCr ash\nĠtermin ate\nĠprotest ing\nC enter\ngu ided\nĠun cover\nĠboy cott\nĠreal izes\ns ound\nĠpret ending\nĠV as\n19 80\nĠfram ed\nĠ13 9\nĠdesc ended\nĠrehab ilitation\nĠborrow ing\nĠB uch\nĠbl ur\nR on\nĠFro zen\nen za\nCh ief\nĠP oor\nĠtransl ates\nM IN\nĠ2 12\nJ ECT\nĠerupt ed\nĠsuccess es\nS EC\nĠpl ague\nĠg ems\nd oms\nĠstret ches\nĠSp y\nĠstory telling\nC redit\nĠP ush\nĠtra ction\nĠin effective\nĠL una\nĠt apes\nĠanaly tics\nerc ise\nĠprogram mes\nĠCar bon\nĠbeh old\nhe avy\nĠConserv ation\nĠF IR\nĠs ack\nter min\nric ks\nĠhous ed\nĠunus ually\nI ce\nĠexecut ing\nĠMor oc\ned ay\nĠed itions\nĠsm arter\nĠB A\nĠout law\nĠvan ished\nib a\nAL SE\nĠSil va\n23 8\nC ould\nĠphilos opher\nĠevac uated\nSec ret\n14 2\nĠvis as\nãĤ ¬\nĠM alt\nĠClear ly\nĠN iger\nĠC airo\nĠF ist\n3 80\nĠX ML\naut o\nit ant\nĠrein forced\nRec ord\nĠSurviv or\nG Hz\nĠscrew s\nparent s\nĠo ceans\nma res\nĠbra kes\nvas ive\nĠhell o\nĠS IM\nrim p\nĠo re\nĠArm our\n24 7\nĠterr ific\nĠt ones\n14 1\nĠMin utes\nEp isode\nĠcur ves\nĠinflamm atory\nĠbat ting\nĠBeaut iful\nL ay\nĠunp op\nv able\nĠr iots\nĠTact ics\nb augh\nĠC ock\nĠorg asm\nĠS as\nĠconstruct or\net z\nG ov\nĠant agon\nĠthe at\nĠde eds\nha o\nc uts\nĠMc Cl\nĠu m\nĠScient ists\nĠgrass roots\nys sey\n\"] =>\nĠsurf aced\nĠsh ades\nĠneighb ours\nĠad vertis\noy a\nĠmer ged\nUp on\nĠg ad\nĠanticip ate\nAny way\nĠsl ogan\nĠdis respect\nI ran\nĠT B\nact ed\nĠsubp oen\nmedi ately\nOO OO\nĠwa iver\nĠvulner abilities\nott esville\nĠHuff ington\nJ osh\nĠD H\nM onday\nĠEll en\nK now\nx on\nit ems\n22 8\nĠf ills\nĠN ike\nĠcum ulative\nand als\nI r\nĠ ì\nĠfr iction\nig ator\nĠsc ans\nĠVi enna\nld om\nĠperform ers\nP rim\nĠb idding\nM ur\nĠlean ed\nĠPri x\nal ks\nĠ[ âĢ¦]\nĠTw itch\nĠDevelop er\nĠG ir\nĠcall back\nAb stract\nĠacc ustomed\nĠfreed oms\nĠP G\nur acy\nĠl ump\nis man\n,, ,,\n19 92\nĠR ED\nĠwor m\nM atch\nĠPl atinum\nI J\nĠOwn er\nTri via\ncom pl\nĠnew born\nĠfant as\nO wn\nĠ19 59\nĠsymp ath\nĠub iqu\nĠoutput s\nĠal lev\nĠpr ag\nK evin\nĠfav ors\nĠbur ial\nĠn urt\nso lete\nc ache\nĠ15 6\nĠunl ocks\nte chn\nM aking\nĠcon quer\nad ic\næ ĸ\nĠel f\nĠelect orate\nĠKurd s\nĠSt ack\nĠSam urai\nĠâ ĺħ\nĠ{ }\nĠS aid\nĠFall out\nĠkind ness\nĠCustom s\nĠBou levard\nĠhelicop ters\not ics\nĠVe get\ncom ment\nĠcritic ised\nĠpol ished\nĠRem ix\nĠC ultural\nĠrec ons\nĠdo i\nat em\nSc reen\nĠbar red\nCom ments\nĠGener ally\nĠsl ap\n7 20\nV ari\np ine\nĠem pt\nĠh ats\nĠPlay ing\nl ab\na verage\nform s\nĠC otton\nĠcan s\nĠD ON\nĠSom alia\nC rypt\nĠIncre ases\nE ver\nmod ern\nĠsur geon\n3 000\nĠrandom ized\n================================ ================================\nB ern\nim pl\nĠC OR\nĠpro claim\nth ouse\nĠto es\nĠam ple\nĠpres erving\nĠdis bel\ngr and\nB esides\nĠsil k\nĠPat tern\nh m\nĠenter prises\nĠaffidav it\nĠAdvis ory\nĠadvert ised\nĠRel igious\nse ctions\npsy ch\nĠField s\naw ays\nĠhasht ag\nĠNight mare\nĠv ampire\nĠfore nsic\nrosso ver\nn ar\nĠn avy\nĠvac ant\nĠD uel\nĠhall way\nĠface book\nident ally\nĠN RA\nĠm att\nĠhur ricane\nĠKir by\nĠP uzzle\nĠsk irt\nou st\ndu llah\nĠanal ogy\nin ion\nĠtomat oes\nĠN V\nĠPe ak\nĠMe yer\nĠappoint ments\nĠm asc\nĠal ley\nre hend\nĠchar ities\nĠund o\nĠdest inations\nĠTest ing\n\"> </\nĠdest ined\nĠimp lements\nĠHar old\nRE CT\nĠoptim ization\nĠkilomet res\nĠc md\nĠimpair ment\nĠun successful\nĠswift ly\nĠGlas gow\nart en\nĠSh ares\nĠAn swer\nĠAl bum\nĠnut ritional\nãĥ ĸ\nĠF ut\nĠbl oc\nĠN FC\nĠwholes ale\nĠC W\nĠneg lected\nĠlaun cher\nĠannounce ments\nOU LD\ncom b\nĠrot ating\nĠrest s\nĠT icket\nched el\nL ou\nĠV ic\nĠ\" '\nĠtem plates\nĠrepl aces\nAr c\n:: ::\nĠGil bert\nĠillness es\nĠsched ules\nĠheter osexual\nL INE\nĠhere in\nĠco erc\nĠdecre asing\nĠde portation\ns udo\nĠInd igenous\nĠweigh s\nAl ong\n' );\nĠBeng als\n70 7\nĠjoint s\nver ts\nĠ14 9\nna ire\nĠsimpl est\nĠl ore\n10 80\nf iction\nĠDat abase\nĠreserv ation\nĠs ou\nĠsan ctuary\naud io\nap le\nĠveget arian\nĠanticip ation\nm icro\nĠend uring\nĠdepart ed\nĠsidew alk\nĠprohib its\nĠF ont\nĠcomp ute\nĠS ect\nĠ15 8\nB attle\nĠbom ber\nĠdist raction\nĠend ured\nĠpractition ers\nĠdistur bed\nĠdr ank\nord ered\nĠsurpr ises\nse at\nSec urity\nĠW isdom\nog o\nĠsub paragraph\nĠPen insula\nĠOrig ins\nire n\nĠP av\nigg le\nĠgrat itude\nĠG ravity\nover ty\nim an\nct r\nĠCa esar\nc ould\ng em\nĠsk ies\nĠch amp\nĠagree ing\nF amily\nD iv\n17 6\nĠmess y\num ption\nF ederal\nern o\nĠCh at\nBey ond\nĠdev ote\nĠW alsh\nĠdump ed\nĠaccum ulation\nst ad\nhib ition\nĠsm okers\nĠinspect or\nF rench\niss an\nĠV ita\nĠresearch ing\nR AM\nĠCelt ics\nĠcl oak\nĠTer ra\nM ary\nso ld\nĠD OM\nmod s\nInt el\nĠmult itude\nĠImpro ved\nĠrel iance\nĠartif act\nĠalarm ing\nP rom\nh on\nT ION\nmed ium\nĠref lex\nĠEx cel\nĠweaken ed\n16 3\n2 24\nĠcost umes\nĠunique ly\nĠs orrow\nĠm ansion\nw p\nĠsal v\nĠGro ve\nbs p\nĠSn iper\nĠSh ipping\nĠP OW\nĠund is\nĠbrand ing\nG irl\nĠAh mad\nĠL akes\nĠCore y\nĠinherit ance\nener y\nĠpack ing\nĠP rest\nD est\nF W\nĠregul ator\nl ocked\nĠcont ested\nĠMel issa\nĠD uc\nĠunpop ular\nĠst acked\nĠ19 17\nĠyear ly\nĠst are\nĠassess ing\nà ¸\nĠbe verages\nĠcompet itions\nĠstreng thening\nal ong\nĠL ud\nĠmel ted\nstan bul\nĠb ounty\nEN C\nĠL ands\nĠdecl ares\nĠcustom ize\nĠcomp osite\nãĥ ¬\nC M\nograph ics\nĠTem p\nĠcont ender\nĠins ign\nĠL AN\nĠdis asters\nins pired\nĠjud gments\nustain able\nurs ion\nĠvar iance\nĠUlt imately\nĠ --------\nu ador\nĠR X\nĠmel ting\nĠExt ended\nĠT we\nM ajor\nĠB il\nĠsy rup\nqu ick\nĠHold er\nĠinnoc ence\nU LE\nĠM ight\n99 99\nĠf al\nĠcontinu ity\nĠ19 53\nĠB S\nst ill\nL at\nĠAb use\nĠun supported\nxxxx xxxx\nĠinst itute\nĠfrag ment\nĠP ep\nW estern\nĠC ause\nĠFr ag\nĠAr s\nà ¥\nast ics\nĠb ishop\nĠcross es\nĠ15 4\nĠUp grade\nĠmit igate\nĠRay mond\nMod s\nĠtom ato\nĠst umbled\nĠdiff ers\nIn itial\nĠR aspberry\nĠign ores\nĠt ant\nà ł\nĠrel ay\nĠb isexual\nĠconf ession\nĠd ement\nin as\nĠHe ather\npl atform\ndri ving\nbour g\nĠM ush\nĠhy ster\nDet ails\nĠdr ift\nĠW ald\nĠLuck ily\nor f\nĠexp ire\nĠP unch\nzy me\ng old\nĠunp aid\nĠT rent\nĠun armed\nĠill icit\nĠT ottenham\nĠsm ash\nIntern ational\nink er\nĠst ing\nĠSadd am\nĠAR T\nĠtruth s\nb irth\nĠso ber\nĠN it\nĠ ib\nĠus able\nĠst acks\nĠSy lv\nĠnort heast\nĠdom ination\nĠM our\nEN SE\nĠMe asure\nĠprogram mer\nĠ< -\n18 2\nĠCond ition\nĠback yard\nir ling\nĠJ eb\nĠCre ed\nĠH ang\nĠCOM P\nF ER\nĠIs h\nĠdetect ives\n------------ ---\nĠMess enger\nĠlo oph\nĠgate way\n15 1\nĠMaterial s\nĠD T\nĠdo omed\nod o\nĠslic es\nĠemail ed\nĠPer l\nĠren ov\nUT H\nody nam\nĠSouth west\nget ic\nĠT PP\nĠoptim ism\nĠT ow\nul ators\nprot ected\ny les\n «\nĠex ile\nen v\nP rop\nĠZimmer man\nÙ İ\nC a\nom aly\nãĥ Ĩ\nĠrail road\nL ee\n23 2\nĠrepl icate\nĠcomfort ably\nact ly\nĠr av\nĠtelesc ope\nĠhonest y\nĠPe pper\nĠBr ing\nĠric hest\nĠout doors\nĠh alls\nĠcont end\nIS E\nĠsub mitting\nĠna ive\nar ations\nĠ14 3\nĠpo ised\nrespons ible\nĠsoc ks\nĠSk ull\nQuest ion\nĠdiscover ies\nJo ined\nĠEn emies\nĠWire less\nĠRe venge\nĠpuzz les\nĠce ased\n29 0\ncript ions\nĠCon sole\nĠbo iling\nĠdisc rep\nĠded uction\nĠar senal\nXX XX\nĠAm sterdam\nrox imately\nĠSh ane\nĠpos ing\nĠACL U\nĠCompan ies\nĠthe ology\nĠU g\nqu arter\nĠH ank\nCo in\nĠL v\nĠalleg ation\nĠAv oid\nĠindef initely\nĠcommod ities\nĠbr ig\nĠMan it\nĠt enth\nmet hod\nĠKn icks\nĠâĢ İ\nĠinv oked\nD ial\nAR A\nĠc aucus\n22 7\nĠJ ab\nĠoun ces\nb ay\nĠbud dy\nf an\n23 4\nĠH il\nad h\nĠT Y\nĠIN D\nĠ19 39\nĠiter ation\nĠGonz alez\nĠV ert\nĠI O\nem b\nre ra\nen ch\nĠRequ irements\nĠW ins\nĠlivest ock\nh ours\n\" âĢ¦\nb ral\nM arg\nĠD one\nĠwas ting\ning ed\ng roups\nĠw ishing\nĠT umblr\nĠt apping\nĠnational ism\nĠB yr\nĠsqu ares\nĠAct ions\nãĥ ¥\nIn side\ndeb ug\nĠapp end\nĠstub born\nĠC ind\nT ell\nĠt earing\nĠRe y\nor c\nĠDay ton\nĠN H\nĠMad ness\nCh arl\nĠMor rison\nfil ter\nĠacc use\nĠ. /\nĠtor rent\nĠdecl ines\ng allery\nM ine\nĠneg otiation\nĠBash ar\nop ia\n19 93\nem ort\nĠNo vel\nĠF ang\ners ive\nĠInst ant\nĠroll er\nA round\nĠElect ions\nG ames\nĠin expensive\nĠwor s\nĠv ul\nĠH ole\nĠunbeliev able\nĠn ause\nĠent r\nbo at\nĠST E\nĠbus h\nĠHass an\nĠw o\nĠpa used\nĠM ig\nl ived\nĠsc out\nĠl ith\nPub lished\ndu ino\nc ool\nĠcirc ulating\nid as\nĠP am\nviol ent\nĠCraw ford\nudd le\nĠLet ters\nGu ard\nmor ph\nĠwand ering\nĠsoph omore\nĠque er\nĠBl ind\nr ue\nĠMar riage\nD om\nĠpadd ing\nĠfold ers\nĠmeaning less\nĠcandid acy\naf ort\nĠwhistle bl\nĠIdent ified\nĠcig ar\nĠh id\nĠDub ai\nĠpost ure\nĠh iking\nĠTermin al\nLegend ary\nĠT P\nĠAT K\nĠStar bucks\nĠR iot\n19 91\nĠBott om\ne ffic\nĠEug ene\nĠWy oming\nĠRock y\nĠsal mon\nĠmet ro\nĠb ilateral\nĠcelebr ates\nL ength\nb illion\nB at\nĠre leg\nĠpse udo\nD T\nĠRh ode\nP arent\nple tion\nĠatt ribut\nĠtun ing\nĠNOT E\nĠRe bel\nic us\nF und\nĠcock tail\nĠ5 01\nĠsp oon\nĠbrut ality\nĠun ite\nĠmicro bi\nĠRe ich\npos itive\nĠam azed\nĠN T\nD esc\nECT ION\nĠfalse ly\nĠHigh lander\nĠC rist\nĠVictor ian\nĠdistribut ions\nthe ir\nĠE instein\nĠp od\nĠepid em\nĠhe ap\nĠR anch\nĠan them\nĠre app\nĠAub urn\nĠconc urrent\nĠThrough out\nĠP OST\nâ ĺ\nĠhom emade\nk ick\nB eg\nĠch assis\nc ounter\nĠmer ger\nĠl aps\n2 17\nun ion\nĠTr igger\nĠdeb ated\nĠsil ently\nĠrest raint\nB al\n0000 000\nĠform idable\nĠFil ip\nĠsacrific es\nF ood\nĠdwar f\nĠSe qu\nin ian\nMore over\nĠtang ible\nops is\nĠMine craft\nĠRegist ration\no an\nĠrepresent ations\nĠth irst\nĠcor p\nire ment\nM ade\nl oe\n> \"\nc ats\n* .\nĠgest ures\ngener al\nLe ague\nĠpack ets\nĠInspect or\nĠBer g\nĠfraud ulent\nĠcritic ize\nF un\nĠbl aming\nnd ra\nĠsl ash\nĠE ston\nĠpropos ing\nĠwh ales\nĠtherap ist\nĠsub set\nĠle isure\nEL D\nĠC VE\nĠAct ivity\nĠcul min\nsh op\nĠD AY\nis cher\nĠAdmir al\nĠAtt acks\nĠ19 58\nĠmem oir\nĠfold ed\nĠsex ist\nĠ15 3\nĠL I\nĠread ings\nĠembarrass ment\nĠEmploy ment\nw art\nch in\nĠcontin uation\nl ia\nRec ently\nĠd uel\nĠevac uation\nĠKash mir\nĠdis position\nĠR ig\nĠbol ts\nĠins urers\n4 67\nM ex\nĠret aliation\nĠmis ery\nĠunre asonable\nr aining\nI mm\nĠP U\nem er\nĠgen ital\nãĤ ³\nĠC andy\nĠon ions\nĠP att\nlin er\nĠconced ed\nĠf a\nĠfor c\nĠH ernandez\nĠGe off\ndeb ian\nĠTe ams\nĠc ries\nĠhome owners\n23 7\nA BC\nĠst itch\nĠstat istic\nĠhead ers\nĠBi ology\nĠmot ors\nĠG EN\nĠL ip\nĠh ates\nĠhe el\nS elf\ni pl\nED IT\nort ing\nĠann ot\nĠSpe ech\nold emort\nĠJ avascript\nĠLe Bron\nĠfoot print\nĠf n\nĠseiz ures\nn as\nh ide\nĠ19 54\nĠBe e\nĠDecl aration\nĠKat ie\nĠreserv ations\nN R\nf emale\nĠsatur ated\nĠb iblical\nĠtroll s\nDev ice\nph otos\nĠdr ums\nãĥīãĥ© ãĤ´ãĥ³\nN ight\nf ighter\nĠH ak\nri ber\nĠc ush\nĠdiscipl inary\nba um\nĠG H\nĠSch midt\nilib rium\nĠs ixty\nĠKush ner\nro ts\nĠp und\nĠR ac\nĠspr ings\nĠcon ve\nBus iness\nF all\nĠqual ifications\nĠvers es\nĠnarc iss\nĠK oh\nĠW ow\nĠCharl ottesville\ned o\nĠinterrog ation\nĠW ool\n36 5\nB rian\nĠâľ ĵ\nĠalleg es\nond s\nid ation\nĠJack ie\ny u\nĠl akes\nĠworth while\nĠcryst als\nĠJud a\nĠcomp rehend\nĠfl ush\nĠabsor ption\nĠO C\nĠfright ened\nĠCh ocolate\nMart in\nĠbu ys\nĠbu cks\nĠapp ell\nĠChampions hips\nĠlist ener\nĠDef ensive\nĠc z\nud s\nĠM ate\nĠre play\nĠdecor ated\nĠs unk\nĠV IP\nĠAn k\nĠ19 5\naa aa\nNob ody\nĠMil k\nĠG ur\nĠM k\nĠS ara\nĠse ating\nĠW id\nTr ack\nĠemploy s\nĠgig antic\nAP P\nãĤ §\nin ventory\nĠtow el\nat che\nl asting\nĠT L\nĠlat ency\nĠkn e\nB er\nme aning\nĠup held\nĠplay ground\nĠm ant\nS ide\nĠstere o\nĠnorth west\nĠexception ally\nĠr ays\nĠrec urring\nD rive\nĠup right\nĠab duct\nĠMar athon\nĠgood bye\nĠal phabet\nh p\nĠcourt room\nring ton\not hing\nT ag\nĠdiplom ats\nĠbar bar\nĠAqu a\n18 3\n33 33\nĠmat urity\nĠinst ability\nĠAp ache\nĠ= ==\nĠfast ing\nĠGr id\nMod Loader\nĠ15 2\nA bs\nĠOper ating\nett i\nĠacqu aint\nDon nell\nĠK em\nĠFor ge\nĠarm ored\nM il\nĠphilos ophers\nin vest\nPl ayers\nâ Ī\nĠmy riad\nĠcomr ades\nR ot\nĠremember ing\nĠcorrespond s\nĠprogram mers\nĠLyn n\nĠo lig\nĠco herent\nyn chron\nĠChem ical\nĠj ugg\np air\npost s\nE ye\nĠIn ner\nĠsem ester\nott est\nĠEmir ates\nric anes\nor ously\nm its\nĠW is\nĠd odge\nl ocation\nĠf aded\nAm azon\nĠPro ceed\nĠIN FO\nj ournal\nĠTru ck\nT en\nĠ2 17\nĠstat utes\nm obile\nĠT ypes\nRec omm\nb uster\npe x\nĠleg ends\nĠhead ache\nf aced\nĠWi Fi\nif ty\nĠH ER\nĠcirc uits\nER ROR\n22 6\nol in\nĠcyl inder\nosp ace\nik ers\nP rem\nQu ant\nĠconflic ting\nĠslight est\nĠfor ged\nion age\nStep hen\nĠK ub\nĠOpp ortun\nĠHe al\nĠbl o\nĠrul ers\nĠh uh\nĠsubmar ine\nf y\nass er\nĠallow ance\nĠKas ich\nĠT as\nĠAustral ians\nForge ModLoader\nĠâĨ ij\nĠMat rix\nam ins\nĠ12 00\nĠAc qu\n23 6\nD ocument\nĠBre aking\n19 3\nĠSub st\nĠRoll er\nĠPro perties\nĠN I\nt ier\nĠcr ushing\nĠadvoc ating\nFurther more\nkeep ers\nĠsex ism\nx d\nĠcall er\nĠS ense\nchie ve\nĠT F\nĠfuel ed\nĠreminis cent\nĠobs ess\nur st\nĠup hold\nĠF ans\nhet ics\nĠâ Ĺ\nĠB ath\nĠbe verage\nĠo scill\n25 4\nĠpol es\nĠgrad ual\nĠex ting\nĠS uff\nĠS uddenly\nĠlik ing\nĠ19 49\nun ciation\nam ination\nĠO mar\nĠL V\nĠCon sequently\nĠsynt hes\nĠG IF\nĠp ains\nĠinteract ing\nu ously\ninc re\nĠrum or\nĠScient ology\n19 7\nĠZ ig\nĠspe lling\nĠA SS\nĠexting u\nms on\nĠg h\nĠremark ed\nĠStrateg ic\nĠM ON\nå ¥\ng ae\nĠWH AT\nE ric\nĠCamp us\nĠmeth ane\nĠimag in\nJ UST\nĠAl m\nX T\ni q\nĠR SS\nĠwrong doing\natt a\nĠbig ot\nĠdemonstr ators\nĠCal vin\nĠV illa\nĠmembr ane\nĠAw esome\nĠbenef ic\n26 8\nĠmagn ificent\nĠL ots\nG reg\nĠBor is\nĠdetain ees\nĠH erman\nĠwhis pered\nĠa we\nProf essor\nfund ing\nĠphys iological\nĠDest ruction\nĠlim b\nĠmanip ulated\nĠbub bles\nĠpse ud\nĠhyd ra\nĠBrist ol\nĠst ellar\nĠExp ansion\nĠK ell\nĠInterest ingly\nĠm ans\nĠdrag ging\nĠec ological\nĠF it\nĠg ent\nĠbenef ited\nĠHait i\nĠpoly g\nãĥ İ\nĠ20 30\nĠpro w\nĠrecon struction\nĠwas t\nĠpsych ic\nĠGree ks\nHand ler\n16 2\nĠP ulse\nĠsol icit\nĠsy s\nĠinflu x\nĠG entle\nper cent\nĠprolifer ation\nĠtax able\nĠdisreg ard\nĠesc aping\nĠg inger\nĠwith stand\nĠdevast ated\nĠD ew\nser ies\nĠinject ed\nela ide\nĠturn over\nhe at\nĻ Ĥ\nH appy\nĠSil ent\nãĤ Ń\niv ism\nĠir rational\nAM A\nĠre ef\nr ub\nĠ16 2\nĠbank ers\nĠEth ics\nv v\nĠcritic isms\nK n\n18 6\nM ovie\nĠT ories\nĠno od\nĠdist ortion\nF alse\nod ore\nĠt asty\nRes earch\nĠU ID\n- )\nĠdivor ced\nĠM U\nĠHay es\nĠIs n\nian i\nĠH Q\nĠ\" #\nign ant\nĠtra umatic\nĠL ing\nH un\nĠsab ot\non line\nr andom\nĠren amed\nra red\nK A\nd ead\né t\nĠAss istance\nĠse af\n++++ ++++\nĠse ldom\nĠWeb b\nĠbo olean\nu let\nĠref rain\nĠDI Y\nru le\nĠshut ting\nĠutil izing\nload ing\nĠPar am\nco al\noot er\nĠattract ing\nĠD ol\nĠher s\nag netic\nĠRe ach\nim o\nĠdisc arded\nĠP ip\n01 5\nü r\nĠm ug\nIm agine\nC OL\nĠcurs ed\nĠSh ows\nĠCurt is\nĠSach s\nspe aking\nĠV ista\nĠFram ework\nong o\nĠsub reddit\nĠcr 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6\nĠN OR\nĠspec s\nĠinv ari\nĠgl ut\nĠC ars\nĠimp ulse\nĠhon ors\ng el\nĠjurisd ictions\nĠBund le\nul as\nCalif ornia\nĠIncre ase\nĠp ear\nĠsing les\nĠc ues\nĠunder went\nĠW S\nĠexagger ated\nĠdub ious\nĠfl ashing\nL OG\n) ].\nJ ournal\nt g\nV an\nĠI stanbul\nĠIn sp\nĠFrank en\nD raw\nĠsad ness\nĠiron ic\nĠF ry\nx c\nĠ16 4\nis ch\nW ay\nĠProtest ant\nh orn\nĠun aff\nĠV iv\nill as\nĠProduct ions\nĠH ogan\nĠper imeter\nĠS isters\nĠspont aneous\nĠdown side\nĠdescend ants\nĠor n\nw orm\nJapan ese\nĠ19 55\nĠ15 1\nĠDo ing\nels en\numb les\nĠrad ically\nĠDr um\nĠB ach\nĠli abilities\nĠO B\nĠElement ary\nĠmem e\nyn es\nĠfinger print\nĠGr ab\nĠundert ake\nMem bers\nĠRead er\nĠSim s\ng od\nĠhypot hetical\ns cient\nĠA J\nĠchar ism\nĠad missions\nĠMiss ile\ntr ade\nĠexerc ising\nĠBack ground\nW ritten\nĠvoc als\nwhe ther\nĠv i\nĠW inner\nĠl itter\nĠSh ooting\nST EM\nãĤ ¡\nĠA FL\nĠvari ability\nĠe ats\nĠD PS\nb row\nĠeleph ants\nĠstr at\nĠ Å\nĠsett lers\nMatt hew\nĠin advert\nH I\nĠIM F\nĠGo 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hip\nc ause\nĠFl ood\nãĥ ¯\nĠpur ity\nth ose\nĠem ission\nb olt\nĠch ord\nĠScript ure\nL u\nĠ$ {\ncre ated\nOther s\n25 8\nĠelement al\nĠannoy ed\nĠA E\nd an\nĠS ag\nRes earchers\nĠfair y\nâĢĵ âĢĵ\n======== ====\nSm art\nGG GG\nĠskelet ons\nĠpup ils\nlink ed\nĠur gency\nen abled\nĠF uck\nĠcoun cill\nr ab\nU AL\nT I\nĠlif es\nĠconf essed\nB ug\nĠharm on\nĠCON FIG\nĠNe utral\nD ouble\nĠst aple\nĠSH A\nBrit ish\nĠSN P\nAT OR\noc o\nĠswing ing\nge x\nole on\npl ain\nĠMiss ing\nĠTro phy\nv ari\nran ch\nĠ3 01\n4 40\n00000000 00000000\nĠrest oring\nĠha ul\nuc ing\nner g\nĠfut ures\nĠstrateg ist\nquest ion\nĠlater al\nĠB ard\nĠs or\nĠRhod es\nĠD owntown\n????? -\nĠL it\nĠB ened\nĠco il\nst reet\nĠPort al\nFI LE\nĠG ru\n* ,\n23 1\nne um\nĠsuck ed\nĠr apper\nĠtend encies\nĠLaure n\ncell aneous\n26 7\nĠbrow se\nĠover c\nhead er\no ise\nĠbe et\nĠG le\nSt ay\nĠm um\nĠtyp ed\nĠdiscount s\nT alk\nĠO g\nex isting\nĠS ell\nu ph\nC I\nĠAust rian\nĠW arm\nĠdismiss al\nĠaver ages\nc amera\nĠalleg iance\nL AN\n=\" #\nĠcomment ators\nĠSet ting\nĠMid west\nĠpharm ac\nĠEX P\nĠstain less\nCh icago\nĠt an\n24 4\nĠcountry side\nĠV ac\n29 5\nĠpin ned\nĠcr ises\nĠstandard ized\nT ask\nĠJ ail\nĠD ocker\ncol ored\nf orth\n\" },\nĠpat rons\nĠsp ice\nĠm ourn\nĠM ood\nĠlaund ry\nĠequ ip\nĠM ole\ny ll\nĠTH C\nn ation\nĠSher lock\nĠiss u\nĠK re\nĠAmeric as\nĠA AA\nĠsystem atically\nĠcont ra\nĠS ally\nĠrational e\nĠcar riage\nĠpe aks\nĠcontrad iction\nens ation\nĠFail ure\nĠpro ps\nĠnames pace\nĠc ove\nfield s\nãĤ ĭ\nĠw ool\nĠC atch\nĠpresum ed\nĠD iana\nr agon\nig i\nĠh amm\nĠst unt\nĠG UI\nĠObserv atory\nĠSh ore\nĠsmell s\nann ah\nĠcock pit\nĠD uterte\n8 50\nĠopp ressed\nbre aker\nĠCont ribut\nĠPer u\nĠMons anto\nĠAtt empt\nĠcommand ing\nĠfr idge\nĠR in\nĠChe ss\nual ity\nĠo l\nRepublic an\nĠGl ory\nĠW IN\n.... ...\nag ent\nread ing\nĠin h\nJ ones\nĠcl icks\nal an\nĠ[ ];\nĠMaj esty\nĠC ed\nop us\nate l\nà ª\nAR C\nĠEc uador\nãĥ ł\nĠK uro\nĠritual s\nĠcapt ive\nĠoun ce\nĠdisag reement\nĠsl og\nf uel\nP et\nM ail\nĠexerc ised\nĠsol ic\nĠrain fall\nĠdev otion\nĠAss essment\nĠrob otic\nopt ions\nĠR P\nĠFam ilies\nĠFl ames\nĠassign ments\n00 7\naked own\nĠvoc abulary\nRe illy\nĠc aval\ng ars\nĠsupp ressed\nĠS ET\nĠJohn s\nĠwar p\nbro ken\nĠstat ues\nĠadvoc ated\nĠ2 75\nĠper il\nom orph\nĠF emin\nper fect\nĠh atch\nL ib\n5 12\nĠlif elong\n3 13\nĠche eks\nĠnum bered\nĠM ug\nB ody\nra vel\nWe ight\nĠJ ak\nĠHe ath\nĠkiss ing\nĠJ UST\nĠw aving\nu pload\nĠins ider\nĠPro gressive\nĠFil ter\ntt a\nĠBe am\nĠviol ently\nip ation\nĠskept icism\nĠ19 18\nĠAnn ie\nĠS I\nĠgen etics\nĠon board\nat l\nĠFried man\nĠB ri\ncept ive\nĠpir ate\nĠRep orter\n27 8\nĠmyth ology\nĠe clipse\nĠsk ins\nĠgly ph\ning ham\nF iles\nC our\nw omen\nĠreg imes\nĠphotograp hed\nK at\nĠMA X\nOffic ials\nĠunexpected ly\nĠimpress ions\nF ront\n;;;; ;;;;\nĠsuprem acy\nĠs ang\nĠaggrav ated\nĠabrupt ly\nĠS ector\nĠexc uses\nĠcost ing\nide press\nSt ack\nĠR NA\nob il\nĠghost s\nld on\nat ibility\nTop ics\nĠreim burse\nĠH M\nĠDe 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1\nĠalleg ing\nĠCommun ication\nĠ16 7\nĠforecast s\nĠsp iders\nOr gan\nĠParticip ants\nĠO ps\ndes ign\nCl ose\nĠfact o\nĠbom bers\nres istant\nateg ories\nS chool\nĠhom ework\nĠcor ro\nT uesday\nĠBrend an\nĠM X\nĠT S\nĠSt ri\nĠstake holders\nĠMillenn ium\nĠtransfer ring\nJ ud\nĠt ac\nĠ16 00\nĠSD K\nr b\nĠinterpret ations\nĠS G\nĠup stairs\nĠHar vest\nĠvag ina\nĠing est\nx f\nĠOr ion\nĠJoe y\nĠsand wic\nĠimm ortal\nĠfl ipped\nort ex\nthreat ening\nĠsn iper\nĠconver ts\nĠinstall ations\nĠBul gar\nors che\nm ails\nĠl ure\nĠnarrow ly\nĠgren ade\nĠG ing\nĠunder wear\n------------ --\nĠch ased\nĠV AL\nĠparent ing\nĠH amb\nĠBl az\nĠanarch ist\nĠMed ian\nĠProgram s\nÎ ½\nĠob j\nĠN okia\norm an\nan qu\nat ism\nop a\nĠfulf illing\nĠpupp y\nĠent it\nĠSebast ian\nĠshoot ers\nĠric her\nè ¡\nĠtempt ed\nĠAT T\nĠC V\nĠto re\nRes ource\nĠDevil s\n40 8\nin ational\nĠass urance\nĠDar ren\nĠwh ichever\npos ure\nĠf ury\nSt ock\nĠunivers ally\nresp onse\nĠo ak\nĠwork load\nĠCor ner\nee le\n\" ...\nĠdepri 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ak\nĠBuzz Feed\nĠsole mn\nĠSc and\nĠpo pping\nĠad here\nĠAl leg\nby te\nĠW olver\nĠun in\nĠrec ol\nit ud\nĠmim ic\nib us\nĠpredict s\nĠKee per\ni ating\nĠde ception\nĠlear nt\nĠdi ary\nĠcond itional\nĠre lic\nĠinv oke\nien ced\nå Ī\nĠP ont\nĠcell phone\nĠspeed ing\nĠtack ling\nĠn ude\nop ened\nĠMan afort\nĠ19 52\nĠmaj ors\nĠSil ence\nĠlog istics\nĠweight ed\nĠPsych iat\n\": [\"\nĠsick ness\nĠdivid ends\nz on\nRe lease\nĠKe ys\nĠI ch\nĠen z\nĠF ernand\nĠÎ ±\nĠmean ings\nĠp enny\nĠst ern\nĠl ar\nĠPub lished\nĠback drop\nK im\nĠSy nt\nĠdeb uted\nw m\nĠIs le\nĠregul ating\nott i\nĠSch olars\nices ter\nĠChe f\nĠpop s\nĠLaun cher\nĠVar ious\nĠcomment ing\nos lav\nenz ie\nĠrival ry\nâ Ĥ¬\nRe ally\nĠor c\nĠbe an\nĠJud y\nNot ice\nĠB ike\n? ]\nĠrent ed\nst en\nĠfore front\nĠBald win\nĠyield ed\nt ails\nPr ime\nĠS ources\nic ator\nSe an\nĠmarch ing\nOut put\nĠJ ungle\nĠres ide\nzz le\nĠAndrew s\nĠtor que\nBas ic\nAct ually\nst rap\np enter\nĠexam s\nĠY a\nĠ15 9\nĠDec ision\nĠr ansom\nete enth\nens ing\n2 13\nĠsun set\n40 4\nĠRap id\nĠHe in\nĠAb original\nĠorgan ism\nĠS ever\nĠcl a\naj i\nSim ple\nĠFl avor\nĠE val\npr us\nĠch orus\nD AY\nĠden ounced\nĠbi ography\nĠTurn bull\nRec ent\nN ormal\nlect ions\nW ord\nĠf erry\nĠWag ner\nh om\nUn it\nĠsuper market\nĠS ith\nĠnomine es\nĠdictators hip\nidd ler\nĠannoun ces\nĠThe m\nĠNept une\nĠde ity\nĠY i\nĠmon arch\nAR R\nĠinv aded\nĠH ok\nunt ary\nC ertain\neg a\nĠk idding\nĠReg ulation\nĠtr ay\nĠphotograp hers\nĠArc ane\nĠdis charged\nĠevangel ical\nĠinter change\nĠfilm maker\nĠEnd less\nĠ29 0\nĠSalv ador\nAS Y\nĠSign al\nĠwr ath\nâ ľ\nl ot\n' /\nĠproject ile\nĠemploy ing\nĠInter face\n19 1\natell ite\nĠR ath\npack age\nĠindic ations\nJ ason\nĠarg s\nĠG Hz\nĠt ilt\nn ants\nw on\nãĤ µ\nred d\nres cent\nĠCal endar\nĠmod ular\nĠassist ing\nĠred eem\nĠBe an\nĠwor sh\nĠdecentral ized\n) ...\n37 7\nĠarr ays\nĠaccomplish ments\nÎ ¿\nd ot\nĠmut ually\nĠob struct\nĠmis represent\nore st\nion ic\nru ce\n% ;\nĠknow ingly\nport ing\nin 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allow\npor ter\nĠlapt ops\nĠpe anut\nĠlobby ists\nÎ ²\nPan el\nĠJo an\nim il\nt nc\nĠresist ed\nĠout we\nĠret aining\nat ri\nĠpo orer\nĠSyri ans\nĠHam mond\nĠwe ld\nud er\ntop ic\nĠT T\nric ia\nĠth ieves\nL ic\nĠG ust\nĠW ays\nare th\n24 3\nĠbroad caster\nsh ield\nass ium\nub le\nĠairst rikes\non so\nĠped al\nĠcollect ors\nĠV ander\nĠMes a\nĠdict ator\nĠd ir\nent on\nc art\nsc ore\nad der\nC ry\nĠs sh\ngg er\nĠdrunk en\nĠG S\nĠSe at\nĠcorner back\nĠsk ipped\nĠRes earchers\nĠAud i\nRef erence\nĠhaun ted\nà «\nĠClin ic\nc z\nĠp s\nĠPal adin\nĠRec ipe\nĠst igma\nopp y\nĠmon keys\nĠHaw k\nS ad\n\" />\nĠWorks hop\nĠRet ail\nĠAv atar\n6 25\nN a\nĠV C\nĠSec ure\nM Y\n19 88\noss ip\nĠpro state\nĠund en\nĠg amer\nĠCont ents\nĠWar hammer\nĠSent inel\n3 10\nĠse gregation\nĠF lex\nĠM AY\nĠdr ills\nĠDrug s\nIslam ic\nĠsp ur\nĠca fe\nĠimag inary\nĠgu iding\nĠsw ings\nĠThe me\nob y\nĠn ud\nĠbe gging\nĠstr ongh\nĠreject ing\nĠpedest rians\nĠPro spect\nR are\ns le\nĠconcess ions\nĠConst itutional\nĠbe 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iece\nS che\nĠDO J\nĠen umer\n18 1\nĠObs erver\nĠB old\nf ounded\ncom merce\nĠexplo its\nĠF inding\nUR N\nĠS ne\nĠAc id\nay ette\nĠVal ues\nĠdr astic\nĠarchitect ural\nĠ\" .\n× ķ\nump ed\nĠwra pping\nĠwid ow\nĠSl ayer\nl ace\non ce\nGerman y\nav oid\nĠtem ples\nP AR\nà ´\nĠLuc ifer\nĠFl ickr\nl ov\nfor ces\nĠsc outing\nĠlou der\ntes y\nĠbefore hand\nÄ ĵ\nĠNe on\nĠW ol\nĠTyp ically\nĠPolit ico\n-+ -+\nĠbuild er\nĠder ive\nK ill\nĠp oker\nĠambig uous\nĠlif ts\nĠcy t\nĠrib s\nood le\nĠS ounds\nh air\nĠSynd rome\nt f\nĠproport ional\nu id\nĠper taining\nĠKind le\nĠNeg ro\nĠreiter ated\nĠTon ight\noth s\nĠCorn ell\nĠo wing\nĠ20 8\nelf are\noc ating\nĠB irds\nSub scribe\nĠess ays\nĠburd ens\nĠillust rations\nar ious\nER AL\nĠCal cul\nĠx en\nĠLink edIn\nĠJ ung\nĠredes ign\nCon nor\n29 6\nĠrevers al\nĠAd elaide\nĠL L\nĠs inking\nĠg um\nUS H\nc apt\nĠGr imm\nĠfoot steps\nĠCB D\nisp ers\nĠpro se\nWed nesday\nĠM ovies\ned in\nĠoverturn ed\nĠcontent ious\nUS B\n~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~\nĠCo pper\nĠpoint less\nN V\nval ues\nolph in\nd ain\nĠdepos ited\nĠG W\nĠpreced ed\nĠCl a\nĠGo lem\nĠN im\nĠÎ ²\nĠEngine ers\nm iddle\nĠfl att\noper ative\nĠcouncil s\nimb abwe\nel in\nĠstress ful\nĠL D\nĠres h\nl ake\nĠwheel chair\nĠAltern ative\nĠoptim ize\noper ation\nĠpe ek\nĠones elf\nig il\nĠtrans itions\nop athy\nbl ank\nĠ16 9\n17 1\n________________________________ ________________________________\nĠl aundering\nEn c\nĠD EC\nĠwork outs\nĠsp ikes\nĠdin osaurs\nĠdiscrim inatory\nP ool\nR ather\n38 5\nR NA\ntes ters\net o\nĠIdent ity\nĠve in\nĠBur ton\nĠarc ade\n4 20\nUlt imately\nĠSad ly\nà °\np ill\nĠcub ic\nĠSpect rum\nthe se\nst ates\nĠun official\nh awks\nĠEVER Y\nĠrain bow\nĠincarcer ation\nand ing\nĠsy ll\nĠEver ton\nĠ17 9\nĠSer bia\nĠ18 9\nm eter\nĠMic key\nĠant iqu\nĠfact ual\nne ck\nĠN are\nn orm\nm ust\nĠhigh ways\nĠgl am\nĠdivid ing\nĠSquad ron\nĠMar tha\nĠbirth s\nC over\n//////// ////////\nĠW ong\nPh ot\nĠA LS\nri o\nĠNon etheless\nĠL emon\nĠ20 6\nĠE E\nĠderiv ative\nĠWW II\nv 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ah\nact ing\ne q\nest ation\nF ight\nĠMar ks\n27 3\nĠ17 8\nR aw\nãģ ĭ\n34 9\nbl ocks\nĠver ge\nest ine\nĠPod esta\nĠinv asive\nĠprofound ly\nĠA o\ne ach\nĠl est\ninter pret\nĠshr inking\nĠerr one\nĠche es\nly s\nĠI vy\nĠDirect ory\nĠhint ed\nV ICE\nĠcontact ing\nĠG ent\nhe i\nĠlabel ing\nĠmerc ury\nĠL ite\nĠexp ires\nĠdest abil\nrit is\nc u\nĠfeather s\nĠste er\nĠprogram med\nĠV ader\nGo ing\nĠE lim\nĠy o\nĠMic he\nĠ20 3\nĠslee ves\nĠb ully\nĠHum ans\n36 8\nĠcomp ress\nĠBan ner\nAR S\nĠa while\nĠcal ib\nĠspons orship\nĠDiff iculty\nĠP apers\nĠident ifier\n} .\nĠy og\nĠSh ia\nĠclean up\nĠvib e\nint rodu\nim ming\nAustral ia\nĠout lines\nĠY outube\ntr ain\nĠM akes\nĠde ported\nĠcent r\nĠD ug\nĠB oulder\nĠBuff y\nĠinj unction\nĠHar ley\nĠG roups\nĠD umbledore\nĠCl ara\nĠ\" -\nĠsacrific ed\nep h\nSh adow\nib ling\nĠfreel ance\nĠevident ly\nph al\nĠret ains\nM ir\nĠfin ite\nd ar\nĠC ous\nĠrep aired\nĠperiod ic\nĠchampions hips\nĠaster oid\nbl ind\nĠexpress ly\nĠAst ros\nĠsc aled\nĠge 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ink\nĠm uff\nĠL IM\nĠS ample\nps c\nib i\ngener ated\nĠspec imens\nĠdiss atisf\nĠtail ored\nĠhold ings\nĠMonth ly\nĠE at\npo ons\nĠne c\nĠC age\nĠLot us\nĠLan tern\nĠfront ier\nĠp ensions\nĠj oked\nĠHard y\n=-=- =-=-\nr ade\nU ID\nĠr ails\nĠem it\nĠsl ate\nĠsm ug\nĠsp it\nĠCall s\nĠJac obs\nf eat\nĠU E\nĠrest ruct\nĠregener ation\nĠenerg ies\nĠCon nor\nOH N\nĠChe ese\nĠg er\nĠresur rect\nman agement\nN W\nĠpres ently\nĠBru ins\nM ember\nĠM ang\nid an\nĠboost ing\nw yn\n+ .\nrequ isite\nĠNY PD\nĠMe gan\nĠCond itions\nĠp ics\nnes ium\nĠR ash\nĠ17 4\nĠD ucks\nĠemb ro\nz u\non ian\nrel igious\nĠc raz\nĠAC A\nĠZ ucker\nEM A\nĠPro s\nWe apon\nĠKn ox\nĠAr duino\nĠst ove\nĠheaven s\nĠP urchase\nĠher d\nĠfundra iser\nDig ital\n5 000\nĠprop onents\n/ âĢĭ\nĠj elly\nĠVis a\nĠmon ks\nĠadvance ment\nĠW er\nĠ18 7\ne us\nert ility\nĠfet al\nĠ19 36\nL o\nĠout fits\nĠstair case\nb omb\nĠcustom ized\ncl air\nT ree\nĠm apped\nĠConsider ing\nĠTor res\nĠmeth yl\nĠapprox imate\nĠdo om\nĠHans en\nĠc rossover\nĠstand alone\nä ¼\nĠinv ites\nĠgra veyard\nĠh p\nDonald Trump\nĠesc ort\nG ar\nĠpredec essors\nĠh ay\nĠen zyme\nĠStra ight\nvis ors\nI ng\nane ously\nĠApp lied\nĠf ec\nĠDur ant\nĠout spoken\nor b\nĠz eal\nĠdisgr ace\n' ).\nĠChe ng\n28 9\nĠRen a\nĠSu icide\n29 4\nĠout raged\nĠNew man\nĠN vidia\nĠA ber\nĠB ers\nĠrecre ation\nWind ow\nĠD P\nx e\nĠped oph\nĠfall out\nambo o\nĠpresent ations\nĠApp s\nĠh tml\n3 45\nĠX XX\nĠrub bing\nĠLe ather\nĠhum idity\nse ys\nest ablished\nĠUn its\n64 6\nĠrespect able\nA uto\nĠthri ving\nĠInn ovation\nang s\nExt ra\nreg ulation\n29 8\np ick\nEx amples\nĠC J\nAtt ack\nĠdr acon\nL T\nĠstick er\nre rs\nĠsun ny\nI ss\nreg ulated\nd im\nĠAb stract\nĠhus bands\nOff ice\nom ination\nit ars\nAN GE\nasc al\nĠK ris\nĠInf antry\nĠm alf\nĠA the\nĠR ally\nbal anced\n................ ........\nOU P\nĠmole cule\nmet ics\nĠSpl it\nĠInstruct ions\nĠN ights\nc ards\nĠt ug\nĠcon e\nå Ń\nĠt x\nĠDisc ussion\nĠcatast rophe\npp e\ng io\nĠcommun ism\nĠhal ted\nĠGu 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one\nĠgal axies\nile aks\nD ave\nĠP uzz\nĠCelt ic\nĠA FC\n27 6\nĠS ons\nĠaffirm ative\nH or\nĠtutorial s\nĠC ITY\nĠR osa\nĠExt ension\nSer ies\nĠf ats\nĠr ab\nl is\nĠun ic\nĠe ve\nĠSp in\nĠadul thood\nty p\nĠsect arian\nĠcheck out\nĠCy cl\nS ingle\nĠmart yr\nĠch illing\n88 8\nou fl\nĠ] ;\nĠcongest ion\nm k\nĠWhere as\nĠ19 38\nur rencies\ner ion\nĠbo ast\nĠPat ients\nĠch ap\nĠB D\nreal DonaldTrump\nĠexam ines\nh ov\nĠstart ling\nĠBab ylon\nw id\nom ew\nbr ance\nĠOd yssey\nw ig\nĠtor ch\nĠV ox\nĠMo z\nĠT roll\nĠAn s\nSimilar ly\nĠF ul\n00 6\nUn less\nĠAl one\nst ead\nĠPub lisher\nr ights\nt u\nĠDoes n\nĠprofession ally\nĠcl o\nic z\nĠste als\nĠ á\n19 86\nĠst urdy\nĠJoh ann\nĠmed als\nĠfil ings\nĠFr aser\nd one\nĠmult inational\nĠf eder\nĠworth less\nĠp est\nYes terday\nank ind\nĠg ays\nĠb orne\nĠP OS\nPict ure\nĠpercent ages\n25 1\nr ame\nĠpot ions\nAM D\nĠLeban ese\nĠr ang\nĠL SU\nong s\nĠpen insula\nĠCl ause\nAL K\noh a\nĠMac Book\nĠunanim ous\nĠl enders\nĠhang s\nĠfranch ises\nore 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ias\nĠSP EC\nĠtoler ated\nars er\nĠBrad ford\n+ ,\nĠsur real\ns f\nCan adian\nĠresemb lance\nĠcarbohyd rate\nVI EW\nĠaccess ory\nme al\nlarg est\nieg el\nSome one\nĠtoug hest\nos o\nĠfun nel\nĠcondemn ation\nlu ent\nĠw ired\nĠSun set\nJes us\nĠP ST\nĠP ages\nĠTy coon\nĠP F\nĠselect ions\nĠ à¤\npart isan\nĠhigh s\nĠR une\nĠcraft s\nle ad\nĠParent s\nĠre claim\nek er\nĠAll ied\nae per\nĠlo oming\nĠbenefic iaries\nĠH ull\nStud ents\nJew ish\nd j\nĠp act\ntem plate\nĠOffic ials\nĠBay lor\nĠhe mp\nĠyouth s\nĠLevel s\nĠX iao\nĠC hes\nĠende avor\nĠRem oved\nĠhipp ocamp\nH ell\nãĤ Ĭ\n80 5\nĠd inosaur\nĠWr ath\nĠIndones ian\nĠcalcul ator\nĠD ictionary\nĠ4 20\nĠM AG\n( _\n! ,\nt arians\nĠrestrict ing\nrac use\nĠweek day\nOU NT\nĠsh rugged\nleg round\nĠb ald\nĠDo ctors\nĠt outed\nĠMax well\nĠ2 14\nĠdiplom at\nĠrep ression\nĠconstitu ency\nv ice\nr anked\nĠNap oleon\ng ang\nĠFore ver\nt un\nĠbul b\nĠPD T\nĠC isco\nV EN\nĠres umed\nSte ven\nĠManit oba\nĠfab ulous\nĠAg ents\n19 84\nĠam using\nĠMyster ies\nĠor thodox\nfl oor\nĠquestion naire\nĠpenet rate\nĠfilm makers\nĠUn c\nĠst amped\nĠth irteen\nĠout field\nĠforward ed\nĠapp ra\nĠa ided\nt ry\nĠunf ocused\nĠL iz\nĠWend y\nĠSc ene\nCh arg\nĠreject s\nĠleft ist\nĠProv idence\nĠBr id\nreg n\nĠprophe cy\nĠL IVE\n4 99\nĠfor ge\nĠF ML\nĠintrins ic\nĠF rog\nĠw ont\nĠH olt\nĠfam ed\nCL US\naeper nick\nĠH ate\nĠC ay\nĠregister ing\nort ality\nrop y\nocaly ptic\na an\nn av\nĠfasc ist\nIF IED\nĠimpl icated\nĠRes ort\nĠChand ler\nĠBr ick\nP in\nys c\nUs age\nĠHel m\nus ra\nâĺħ âĺħ\nĠAb bas\nĠunanim ously\nĠke eper\nĠadd icted\n?? ?\nĠhelm ets\nĠant ioxid\naps ed\n80 8\ngi ene\nĠwa its\nĠmin ion\nra ved\nĠP orsche\nĠdream ing\nĠ17 1\nĠC ain\nĠun for\nass o\nĠConfig uration\nk un\nhard t\nĠn ested\nĠL DS\nL ES\nĠt ying\nen os\nĠc ue\nĠMar qu\nsk irts\nĠclick ed\nĠexp iration\nĠAccording ly\nĠW C\nĠbless ings\nĠaddict ive\nĠN arr\ny x\nĠJagu ars\nĠrent s\nĠS iber\nĠt ipped\nous se\nĠFitz gerald\nĠhier arch\nout ine\nĠwa velength\n> .\nch id\nĠProcess ing\n/ +\nr anking\nE asy\nĠConst ruct\nĠt et\nins ured\nH UD\nĠqu oting\nĠcommun icated\nin x\nĠin mate\nĠerect ed\nĠAbs olutely\nĠSure ly\nĠun im\nĠThr one\nhe id\nĠcl aws\nĠsuper star\nĠL enn\nĠWh is\nU k\nab ol\nĠsk et\nĠN iet\nĠper ks\nĠaff inity\nĠopen ings\nphas is\nĠdiscrim inate\nT ip\nv c\nĠgr inding\nĠJenn y\nĠast hma\nhol es\nĠHom er\nĠreg isters\nĠGl ad\nĠcre ations\nĠlith ium\nĠappl ause\nunt il\nJust ice\nĠTur ks\nĠsc andals\nĠb ake\nt ank\nM ech\nĠMe ans\nĠM aid\nRepublic ans\nis al\nwind ows\nĠSant os\nĠveget ation\n33 8\nt ri\nĠfl ux\nins ert\nĠclar ified\nĠmort g\nĠCh im\nĠT ort\nĠdiscl aim\nmet al\nĠAs ide\nĠindu ction\nĠinf l\nĠathe ists\namp h\nĠe ther\nĠV ital\nĠBu ilt\nM ind\nĠweapon ry\nS ET\nĠ18 6\nad min\ng am\ncont ract\naf a\nĠderiv atives\nĠsn acks\nĠch urn\nE conom\nĠca pped\nĠUnder standing\nĠH ers\nĠI z\nĠd uct\nI ENT\naugh ty\nĠâľ Ķ\nĠN P\nĠsa iling\nIn itialized\nĠt ed\nĠreact ors\nĠL omb\nĠcho ke\nĠW orm\nĠadm iration\nĠsw ung\nens ibly\nĠr ash\nĠGo als\nĠImport ant\nSh ot\nĠR as\nĠtrain ers\nĠB un\nWork ing\nĠhar med\nĠPand ora\nĠL TE\nĠmush room\nĠCH AR\nĠF ee\nĠM oy\nB orn\nol iberal\nĠMart ial\nĠgentle men\nĠling ering\nOffic ial\nĠgra ffiti\nĠN ames\nD er\nĠqu int\nist rate\naze era\nĠNOT ICE\nĠFlore nce\nĠpay able\nĠdep icts\nĠSpe cies\nHe art\nâĶĢâĶĢâĶĢâĶĢ âĶĢâĶĢâĶĢâĶĢ\nĠencl osed\nIncre ases\nD aily\nĠL is\nĠenact ment\nĠB acon\nĠSt eele\ndem and\nĠ18 3\nĠmouth s\nĠstr anded\nĠenhance ment\n01 1\nĠWh ats\nĠhe aled\nen y\nĠR ab\nĠ3 40\nĠLab yrinth\nro ach\nĠY osh\nĠCl ippers\nĠconcert s\nIntern et\n35 5\nĠstick ers\nĠter med\nĠAx e\nĠgrand parents\nFr ance\nĠCl im\nĠU h\nul ic\nĠthr ill\ncent ric\nĠOver view\nĠCond uct\nĠsubstant ive\nĠ18 2\nm ur\nĠstr ay\nĠCo ff\nĠrep etitive\nĠFor gotten\nĠqual ification\new itness\nĠZ imbabwe\nĠsim ulated\nĠJ D\n25 3\nĠW are\nĠun sc\nT imes\nĠsum mons\nĠdis connected\nĠ18 4\nci us\nĠGu jar\nod ka\nĠer ase\nĠTob acco\nelect ed\nĠun cont\nĠShe pard\nĠL amp\nĠalert ed\nĠoper ative\narn a\nu int\nĠneglig ence\nac ements\nĠsup ra\nĠprev ail\nĠSh ark\nĠbel ts\nãģ «\nĠt ighter\nEngine ers\nĠin active\nĠexp onent\nĠWill ie\na ples\nĠhe ir\nĠH its\nian n\nĠS ays\nĠcurrent s\nĠBeng al\nĠar ist\nB uffer\nĠbree ze\nĠWes ley\nCol a\nĠpron oun\nĠde ed\nĠK ling\nĠof t\nĠinf lict\nĠpun ishing\nĠn m\nik u\nOD UCT\n01 4\nĠsubsid y\nĠDE A\nĠHer bert\nĠJ al\nB ank\nĠdef erred\nĠship ment\nB ott\nĠal le\nb earing\nHT ML\nOff line\nĠ2 13\nĠscroll ing\nĠsc anned\nĠLib yan\nĠT OP\nch rom\nd t\ncol umn\nPsy NetMessage\nZ ero\nĠtor so\n0 50\nâķ IJ\nĠimp erson\nĠSchw artz\nud ic\nĠpiss ed\nĠS app\n25 7\nĠIS Ps\nog l\nĠsuper vised\nĠad olescent\nĠatt ained\nĠDel ivery\nĠB unny\nĠ19 37\nĠmini ature\nĠo s\nĠ3 70\n60 8\nĠMour inho\nĠinn ate\nĠtem po\nĠN M\nĠFall en\n00 9\nĠprov ocative\nStream er\nĠBened ict\nĠBol she\nĠt urtle\nĠPC B\nĠEqu al\nDirect or\nĠR end\nĠflu ids\nAuthor ities\nĠcous ins\nrequ ency\nĠNeigh bor\ns ets\nsh ared\nChar les\npass word\nĠg ears\nĠ2 11\nĠHard ware\nri ka\nĠup stream\nH om\nĠdisproportion ately\niv ities\nĠund efined\nĠelect rons\nĠcommem or\nEvent ually\nĠ> <\nĠir responsible\n2 18\nĠRe leased\nĠO VER\nĠI GN\nĠB read\nst ellar\nĠS age\ntt ed\ndam age\ned ition\nĠPre c\nĠl ime\nĠconf inement\nĠcal orie\nwe apon\nĠdiff ering\nĠS ina\nm ys\nam d\nĠintric ate\nk k\nĠP AT\nã o\nst ones\nlin ks\nĠr anch\nSem itic\nĠdifferent iate\nĠS inger\noccup ied\nĠfort ress\nc md\nĠinter ception\nĠAnk ara\nĠre pt\nĠSol itaire\nĠrem ake\np red\nĠd ared\naut ions\nĠB ACK\nRun ning\nĠdebug ging\nĠgraph s\n3 99\nĠNig el\nĠb un\nĠpill ow\nĠprog ressed\nfashion ed\nĠob edience\nER N\nĠrehe ars\nC ell\nt l\nS her\nĠher ald\nĠPay ment\nĠC ory\nĠDe pt\nĠrep ent\nĠWe ak\nuck land\nĠple asing\nĠshort ages\nĠjur ors\nĠK ab\nq qa\nAnt i\nĠw ow\nĠRC MP\nĠt sun\nĠS ic\nĠcomp rises\nĠsp ies\nĠprec inct\nn u\nĠur ges\nĠtim ed\nĠstrip es\nĠB oots\nĠy en\nAdv anced\nĠdisc rete\nĠArch angel\nemploy ment\nD iff\nĠmon uments\nĠ20 9\nwork er\nĠ19 6\nĠI g\nutter stock\nT PS\nJ ac\nĠhomeless ness\nĠcomment ator\nĠrac ially\nf ing\nse ed\nE le\nell ation\nĠeth anol\nĠpar ish\nĠD ong\nĠAw akening\nĠdev iation\nĠB earing\nĠTsu k\nĠrec ess\nĠl ymph\nĠCann abis\nå ľ\nĠNEW S\nĠd ra\nĠStef an\nĠWr ong\nĠS AM\nĠloose ly\nĠinterpre ter\nĠPl ain\nGo vernment\nĠbigot ry\nĠgren ades\nave z\npict ured\nĠmand ated\nĠMon k\nĠPed ro\nĠl ava\n27 4\nĠcyn ical\nĠScroll s\nl ocks\nM p\nĠcon gregation\norn ings\nph il\nĠI bid\nĠf erv\nĠdisapp earing\nĠarrog ant\nsy n\nĠMa ver\nĠSu it\n24 1\nĠab bre\nack ers\nP a\nĠY el\nWhe never\nĠ23 5\nĠV ine\nĠAn at\nĠext inct\nLE T\nĠexecut able\nV ERS\nox ide\nD NA\nĠP rel\nĠresent ment\nĠcompr ise\nĠAv iv\nĠinter ceptions\nĠprol ific\nIN A\nĠEr in\nthough t\n2 19\nĠPsychiat ry\nun ky\nchem ist\nH o\nĠMcC oy\nĠbr icks\nL os\nri ly\nĠUS SR\nĠr ud\nĠl aud\nĠW ise\nĠEmer ald\nĠrev ived\nĠdam ned\nĠRep air\nid em\nct ica\nĠpatri arch\nĠN urs\nme g\nĠcheap est\nre ements\nempt y\nĠCele br\nĠdepri vation\nch anted\nĠTh umbnails\nE nergy\nĠEth an\nĠQ ing\nĠopp oses\nW IND\nv ik\nĠM au\nĠS UB\n66 7\nG RE\nĠVol unte\nnt on\nC ook\nå IJ\nes que\nĠplum met\nĠsu ing\nĠpron ounce\nĠresist ing\nĠF ishing\nĠTri als\nĠy ell\nĠ3 10\nĠin duct\nĠpersonal ized\noft en\nR eb\nEM BER\nĠview point\nĠexist ential\n() )\nrem ove\nMENT S\nl asses\nĠev apor\nĠa isle\nmet a\nĠreflect ive\nĠentit lement\nĠdev ised\nmus ic\nasc ade\nĠwind ing\noff set\nĠaccess ibility\nke red\nBet ter\nĠJohn ston\nth inking\nS now\nĠCroat ia\nĠAt omic\n27 1\n34 8\nĠtext book\nĠSix th\nĠ اÙĦ\nĠsl ider\nĠBur ger\nb ol\nS ync\nĠgrand children\nĠc erv\n+ )\nĠe ternity\nĠtweet ing\nĠspec ulative\nĠpiv otal\nĠW P\nĠT ER\nynam ic\nĠu pl\nĠC ats\nper haps\nĠclass mates\nĠblat ant\n' -\nĠl akh\nant ine\nĠB org\ni om\n/ (\nĠAthlet ic\nĠs ar\nOT A\nĠHoff man\nNever theless\nĠad orable\nĠspawn ed\nAss ociated\nĠDom estic\nĠimpl ant\nĠLux em\nĠK ens\nĠp umps\nĠS AT\nAtt ributes\n50 9\nav our\nĠcentral ized\nĠT N\nĠfresh ly\nĠA chieve\nĠouts iders\nher ty\nĠRe e\nĠT owers\nĠD art\nak able\nĠm p\nĠHeaven ly\nĠr ipe\nĠCarol ine\nry an\nĠclass ics\nĠret iring\nĠ2 28\nĠa h\nĠdeal ings\nĠpunch ing\nĠChap man\nO ptions\nmax well\nvol ume\nĠst al\nĠex ported\nĠQu ite\nĠnumer ical\nB urn\nF act\nĠKey stone\nĠtrend ing\nĠalter ing\nĠAfric ans\n47 8\nĠM N\nĠKn ock\nĠtempt ation\nĠprest ige\nOver view\nĠTrad itional\nĠBah rain\nPriv ate\nĠH OU\nĠbar r\nĠT at\nC ube\nUS D\nĠGrand e\nĠG at\nĠFl o\nĠres ides\nĠind ec\nvol ent\nĠperpet ual\nub es\nĠworld view\nĠQuant um\nĠfil tered\nĠen su\norget own\nERS ON\nĠM ild\n37 9\nOT T\nà ¥\nĠvit amins\nĠrib bon\nĠsincere ly\nĠH in\nĠeight een\nĠcontradict ory\nĠgl aring\nĠexpect ancy\nĠcons pir\nĠmon strous\nĠ3 80\nre ci\nĠhand ic\nĠpump ed\nĠindic ative\nĠr app\nĠav ail\nĠLEG O\nĠMar ijuana\n19 85\nert on\nĠtwent ieth\n################ ################\nĠSw amp\nĠval uation\nĠaffili ates\nadjust ed\nĠFac ility\n26 2\nĠenz ymes\nitud inal\nĠimp rint\nS ite\nĠinstall er\nĠT RA\nm ology\nlin ear\nĠCollect ive\nig ating\nĠT oken\nĠspec ulated\nK N\nĠC ly\nor ity\nĠdef er\nĠinspect ors\nappro ved\nR M\nĠSun s\nĠinform ing\nĠSy racuse\nib li\n7 65\nĠgl ove\nĠauthor ize\nâĢ¦âĢ¦âĢ¦âĢ¦ âĢ¦âĢ¦âĢ¦âĢ¦\nĠCru ise\nĠcontract ing\nshe ll\nIF E\nĠJew el\np ract\nĠPhot oshop\nĠKnow ing\nh arm\nĠattract ions\nad an\net us\n01 8\nw agen\nAl t\nĠmultip ly\nĠequ ilibrium\n: {\nĠF ighters\nĠEd gar\nĠfour teen\nGo vern\nĠmis use\nĠab using\nĠancest ry\nram er\n64 4\nĠwor ms\nĠthick er\nĠComb ine\nĠpeas ants\nĠv ind\nĠcon quest\nĠm ocked\nĠc innamon\nĠC ald\nĠGall up\nĠavoid ance\nĠincarn ation\nĠStr at\nĠt asted\nent a\nĠN eal\np ared\nĠtermin ology\nject ion\nScient ists\nĠIN S\nĠDe e\nĠdirect ories\nR oad\nĠSh ap\nbr ight\nĠDirect ors\nĠCol umn\nĠb ob\nĠprefer ably\nĠgl itch\nf urt\nĠe g\nid is\nC BC\nĠsur rendered\nĠtest ament\n33 6\nug gest\nĠN il\nan other\nĠpat hetic\nĠDon na\nĠ2 18\nĠA very\nĠwhis key\nĠf ixture\nĠCon quest\nĠbet s\nO cc\nĠLe icester\n] .\"\nĠ) );\nĠfl ashes\n45 6\nĠmask ed\nge bra\nĠcomput ed\nche l\naud er\nĠdefe ats\nĠLiber ation\nĠOs ama\nĠV ive\nCh anges\nCh annel\nĠtar iffs\nĠm age\nĠS ax\nĠinadvert ently\nĠC RE\nĠRe aper\nink y\ngr ading\nĠstere otyp\nĠcur l\nĠF ANT\nĠfram eworks\nM om\nĠAn ch\nĠflav our\ncar bon\nĠperm itting\nlet cher\nĠMo zilla\nĠPark ing\nĠCh amp\nSc roll\nĠmurd erer\nĠrest ed\nĠow es\nĠP oss\nAD D\nIF F\nres olution\nĠMin ing\nĠcompar ative\nD im\nĠneighbour ing\nĠA ST\nĠT oxic\nĠbi ases\nĠgun fire\nur ous\nĠMom ent\n19 83\nĠper vasive\ntt p\nĠNorm ally\nr ir\nS arah\nĠAlb any\nĠun sett\nĠS MS\nip ers\nl ayer\nĠWh ites\nup le\nĠtur bo\nĠLe eds\nĠthat s\nĠMin er\nM ER\nĠRe ign\nĠper me\nĠBl itz\nĠ19 34\nĠintimid ating\nt ube\nĠecc entric\nab olic\nbox es\nĠAssoci ates\nv otes\nĠsim ulate\num bo\naster y\nĠship ments\nFF FF\nan th\nĠseason ed\nĠexperiment ation\nâĸ ł\nlaw s\nMe et\nidd les\nant ics\nR ating\nIS IS\nh ift\nĠfront s\nb uf\n01 7\nĠun att\nĠD il\nle ases\nĠGard ens\n77 7\nt ouch\nve ll\n45 8\nĠ= ====\ns aving\nĠer osion\nĠQu in\nĠearn s\nĠaccomplish ment\nĠWe i\nĠ< [\n____ _\nĠir rig\nĠT eddy\nĠconqu ered\nĠArm ored\nĠassert s\nĠmanip ulating\nr é\nĠtranscript s\nG allery\nĠplot ting\nNe il\nĠbetray al\nload er\nĠS ul\nĠdispl acement\nĠroy alty\nĠW I\nhe it\nĠDev ices\nalle l\nĠmunicipal ities\nĠcan al\nSt ars\nĠU AE\nĠ\" âĢ¦\nĠC U\nab ove\nĠreson ance\nĠguiActive Un\nadd ed\nĠBra ves\nĠI bn\nĠhere by\nĠB RE\nĠshare holder\nĠH ir\nĠJ i\nĠstrange ly\nĠadm ired\nĠpl ight\nĠb achelor\nĠP ole\ncipl inary\nT ony\nĠArmen ian\nĠun man\nĠZion ist\nSt age\nisco ver\nĠautom otive\nĠs idelines\nĠsl ick\nĠRena issance\nĠF UN\nIm ages\nĠH aj\nĠp ing\nĠshort cut\nĠBl vd\nĠLook s\nĠbur sts\nĠcl amp\nĠm ish\nĠsort ing\nĠpatri ot\nĠcorrect ness\nĠScand inav\nĠCaval iers\np ython\naz ar\nĠ3 75\nĠJa une\n40 9\nĠdetrim ental\nĠstab bing\nĠpoison ed\nĠf ountain\noc ent\nor st\nĠMar i\nĠr ains\nĠO vers\nĠInst itution\nud get\nAM Y\nt ale\nĠK R\nĠPr ices\nĠhead aches\nĠlands l\nĠA ura\nBon us\nĠZ hao\nĠH ip\nĠhop s\nĠKurd istan\nĠexplo iting\nry n\nĠhypocr isy\nop ening\nĠgun shot\nĠw ed\ninter stitial\nInter stitial\nĠam en\nBre aking\nĠmarket ed\nW ire\nĠC rowd\nContin ue\nĠK nown\nĠEffect ive\nore an\niz ons\nJose ph\nĠescal ation\nus ername\nĠcur tain\nAT ES\nĠP AR\nĠM iy\nĠcounter fe\nl ene\nĠcont enders\nd aily\nĠAs c\nĠPhill ip\nmost ly\nĠfil ename\nhe ne\nĠresemb ling\nĠst aging\nĠCh loe\nĠw iring\nH on\nĠRen ew\nott age\nĠHy brid\nm uch\nĠstro kes\nĠpolicy makers\nAP TER\nĠArk ham\npl ot\nĠassist ants\nĠde port\nĠSe ga\nĠinflu enza\nĠC ursed\nĠK obe\nĠskin ny\nProv ider\nĠR ip\nĠincrement al\nproduct s\nB F\nĠd ome\nĠC redits\nĠlos ers\nint s\nĠBet ty\nĠTal ent\nĠD AM\nL v\nE ss\nĠd ens\ntem p\nJ udge\nod ic\nĠ' (\nUR ES\nets k\nV O\nĠretrie ved\nĠarchitect s\nÙ ĩ\nĠeth ic\nĠSecond ary\nst ocks\nad ia\nĠ3 25\nĠOp inion\nĠsimultane ous\nĠd izz\nul p\nĠsmugg ling\nipp ery\nR andom\nf acing\nĠD as\nĠstock p\nĠdiscl osures\npo inter\nĠcor al\nĠSe lection\nĠP ike\nival ent\nĠruth less\nĠR im\nĠensu ing\nĠExper iment\nĠcongress man\nĠbelie ver\nĠun specified\nĠM ord\nĠknowledge able\nĠV ERY\nT X\nĠstra ps\nĠtur f\napesh ifter\nĠmar ital\nĠfl ock\nãģ Ĩ\n26 3\nAM ES\nĠOpp osition\nĠtre asures\nĠG OD\nĠmodel ed\nĠWOR LD\nĠ( [\nĠUs age\nH F\nĠ$ (\nuss ed\nĠpione er\nE ight\npar se\nb read\nrit z\nĠMir anda\nĠK ant\n++ )\nore n\nĠprov oked\nĠbre eds\nĠIn cludes\nĠPast ebin\nĠFl ip\nJ ava\nĠbr ink\nĠrum ored\nĠun seen\nĠgar nered\nĠDef in\nal ted\nĠtatt oos\nĠhes itation\nis itions\nĠWe aver\nĠReport ing\nĠtherap ies\nĠconsult ants\nĠresid ual\nĠMal i\nĠRom a\ni ago\nĠRes idents\nub i\nĠremed ies\nĠadapt ive\nĠAl ive\nĠBar cl\nĠwal lets\nc rypt\netermin ation\nĠPel osi\nĠsl ipping\noton in\nĠall iances\npat rick\nir is\nĠor th\nĠPer kins\nĠDe V\nĠG ets\nĠdry ing\nge e\nfore st\nĠFor get\nore m\n33 9\nĠvague ly\nĠD ion\nĠP orn\nĠH OW\nĠp neum\nĠrub ble\nĠT aste\nenc ia\nĠG el\nĠd st\nĠ24 5\nĠMoroc co\ninf lamm\nĠTw ins\nĠb ots\nd aughter\nĠB alk\nĠbre thren\nĠlog os\nĠgo bl\nf ps\nĠsub division\nĠp awn\nĠsquee zed\nĠmor ale\nĠD W\n' \"\nĠkn ot\nook y\nĠdiv isive\nĠboost ed\nch y\nãĥ IJ\nif act\nĠnewcom ers\nĠWrest ling\nĠsc outs\nw olves\nR at\nĠnin eteenth\nĠOs borne\nSt ats\nĠem powered\nĠpsych opath\nĠO EM\nugg age\nĠP K\nĠMoh ammad\nP ak\nĠanarch ists\nĠExt ract\nest hes\nĠStock holm\nl oo\nĠG raph\nĠdeploy ing\nĠStr anger\nĠM old\nĠstaff er\nĠdiscount ed\nuck le\nple ase\nĠLand ing\nÃŃ a\nĠ19 3\nĠan te\nĠrep etition\nĠ+ /-\nĠpar ody\nĠlive ly\nAA A\nĠHor us\nĠp its\nind ers\nL OC\nĠVen ice\n40 6\nĠDis cover\nâ Ĩ\nellect ual\nĠp ens\nĠey el\nig uous\nIm pl\nĠj oking\nĠinv al\nĠBel fast\nĠcredit ors\nĠSky walker\nov sky\nĠcease fire\nĠse als\nis oft\n) ).\nĠFel ix\nIT S\nĠt resp\nĠBlock chain\new are\nĠSch war\nen ne\nmount ed\nĠBe acon\nles h\nĠimmense ly\nĠche ering\nEm ploy\nsc ene\nish ly\natche wan\nĠNic olas\nĠdr ained\nĠEx it\nĠAz erb\nj un\nĠflo ated\nu ania\nDe ep\nĠsuper v\nĠmyst ical\nĠD ollar\nĠApost le\nĠR EL\nĠProv ided\nĠB ucks\nãĥ ´\ncut ting\nĠenhance ments\nĠPengu ins\nĠIsa iah\nĠj erk\nĠW yn\nĠst alled\nĠcryptoc urrencies\nĠR oland\nsing le\nĠl umin\nĠF ellow\nĠCap acity\nĠKaz akh\nW N\nĠfin anced\n38 9\nĠt id\nĠcoll usion\nĠMy r\nî Ģ\nSen ator\nĠped iatric\nĠneat ly\nĠsandwic hes\nĠArchitect ure\nĠt ucked\nĠbalcon y\nĠearthqu akes\nqu ire\nF uture\nĠhe fty\né Ĺ\nĠspecial izes\nĠstress es\nĠs ender\nĠmisunder standing\nĠep ile\nĠprov oke\nĠCol ors\nĠdis may\nuk o\n[ _\n58 6\nne utral\nĠdon ating\nĠRand all\nMult i\nĠconvenient ly\nĠS ung\nĠC oca\nĠt ents\nĠAc celer\nĠpart nered\n27 2\nir ming\nĠB AS\ns ometimes\nĠobject ed\nub ric\np osed\nLC S\ngr ass\nĠattribut able\nV IS\nIsrael i\nĠrepe ats\nĠR M\nv ag\nut a\nin ous\nĠin ert\nĠMig uel\næ Ń\nĠHawai ian\nB oard\nĠart ific\nĠAzerb ai\nas io\nĠR ent\nA IN\nĠappl iances\nĠnational ity\nĠass hole\nĠN eb\nĠnot ch\nh ani\nĠBr ide\nAv ailability\nĠintercept ed\nĠcontin ental\nĠsw elling\nĠPers pect\nb ies\n. <\nith metic\nĠL ara\nĠtempt ing\nadd r\nĠoversee ing\ncl ad\nĠD V\nĠGing rich\nĠm un\nĠApp ropri\nĠalter ations\nĠPat reon\nĠha voc\nĠdiscipl ines\nĠnotor iously\naku ya\nier i\n? ).\nĠW ent\nĠsil icon\nĠtre mb\nCont ainer\nK nown\nĠmort ar\nest e\nick a\nAr thur\nĠPre viously\nĠMart y\nĠsp arse\ng ins\nĠin ward\nĠParticip ant\nC opy\nĠM isc\nĠantib iotic\nĠRet ro\nĠel usive\nĠass ail\nĠBatt alion\nĠB ought\nĠdimin ish\nĠEuro pa\ns ession\nĠDanger ous\nies el\nĠdisbel ief\nĠbl asts\next reme\nĠBoy d\nĠProject s\nĠGu ys\nĠunder gone\nĠgr ill\nĠDw ight\nĠ19 7\nUS ER\nĠfiles ystem\nĠcl ocks\nT aylor\nĠwra pper\nĠfold ing\nous and\nĠPhilipp ine\nATION AL\nĠPer th\nĠas hes\nĠaccum ulate\nĠGate way\nSh op\norks hire\nH an\nĠBar rel\nĠLe h\nĠX V\nĠwh im\nĠrep o\nĠC G\nĠM am\nĠincorpor ating\nĠbail out\nĠlingu istic\nĠdis integ\nC LE\nĠcinem atic\nĠF iber\nS yn\nil ion\nĠCom pos\nc hens\nĠne oc\nĠbo iled\nF INE\non o\nun cle\nik en\nĠB M\nÎ ¹\nĠreceipt s\nĠdisp osed\nĠTh irty\nĠR ough\nĠA BS\nĠnot withstanding\noll en\n# $\nĠunrel iable\nĠbl oom\nĠmedi ocre\nĠtr am\nĠTas man\nĠsh akes\nĠmanifest o\nĠM W\nĠsatisf actory\nĠsh ores\nĠcomput ation\nĠassert ions\norm ons\nar ag\nab it\nDem ocrats\nĠL oot\nĠVol ks\nha ired\nĠgrav itational\nS ing\nĠM iz\nĠthro ttle\nĠtyr anny\nĠView s\nĠrob ber\nĠMinor ity\nĠsh rine\nsc ope\npur pose\nĠnucle us\nour cing\nĠUS DA\nĠD HS\nw ra\nĠBow ie\nSc ale\nĠB EL\nx i\nI ter\nĠ( ),\nw right\nĠsail ors\nous ed\nNAS A\nĠPro of\nĠMin eral\nt oken\nĠF D\nR ew\nĠe ll\n6 30\nĠchance llor\nĠG os\nĠamount ed\nĠRec re\nome z\nĠOpt im\nĠOl ive\nĠtrack er\now ler\nĠUn ique\nR oot\nĠmar itime\nĠQur an\nĠAd apt\nĠecosystem s\nĠRe peat\nĠS oy\nĠI MP\nĠgrad uating\nand em\nP ur\nĠRes et\nĠTr ick\nĠPh illy\nĠT ue\nĠMalays ian\nĠclim ax\nĠb ury\nĠcons pic\nĠSouth ampton\nĠFl owers\nĠesc orted\nĠEduc ational\nĠI RC\nĠbrut ally\ne ating\nĠpill ar\nĠS ang\nĠJ ude\nar ling\nĠAm nesty\nĠrem inding\nĠAdminist rative\nhes da\nĠfl ashed\nĠP BS\nper ate\nfe ature\nĠsw ipe\nĠgra ves\noult ry\n26 1\nbre aks\nĠGu er\nĠsh rimp\nĠV oting\nqu ist\nĠanaly tical\nĠtables poons\nĠS OU\nĠresear ched\nĠdisrupt ed\nĠj our\nĠrepl ica\nĠcart oons\nb ians\n} )\nc opy\nG ot\nou ched\nP UT\nĠsw arm\nnot ations\ns aid\nĠreb uilt\nĠcollabor ate\nĠr aging\nĠn ar\nĠdem ographics\nĠD DR\nĠdist rust\noss ier\nĠK ro\nĠpump kin\nĠreg rets\nĠfatal ities\nĠL ens\nĠO le\np d\nĠpupp et\nĠOut look\nĠSt am\nO l\nF air\nU U\nĠre written\nÄ ±\nĠfasc inated\nĠve ctors\nĠtrib unal\nu ay\nĠM ats\nĠCo ins\n[ [\nĠ18 1\nĠrend ers\nĠK aepernick\nĠesp ionage\nĠsum m\nĠd itch\nAcc ount\nĠspread sheet\nĠmut ant\np ast\n40 7\nĠd ye\nĠinit iation\nĠ4 000\nĠpunish able\nĠth inner\nĠKh al\nĠinter medi\nD un\nĠGoth am\nĠeager ly\nĠvag inal\np owers\nV W\nĠWATCH ED\nĠpred ator\nams ung\nĠdispar ity\nĠ[ *\nĠam ph\nĠout skirts\nĠSpir its\nĠskelet al\nÐ »\nĠR ear\nĠissu ance\nĠLog ic\nre leased\nZ Z\nĠB ound\nEnt ry\nĠex its\nis ol\nĠFound er\nĠw re\nĠGreen land\nĠM MO\nt aker\nIN C\nãģ ¾\nĠhour ly\nhen ko\nĠfantas ies\nĠdis ob\nĠdemol ition\nãĥ ĭ\nĠen listed\nrat ulations\nĠmis guided\nĠens ured\nĠdiscour aged\nm ort\nĠfl ank\nĠc ess\nĠreact s\nĠS ere\ns ensitive\nĠSer pent\nass ad\nĠ24 7\nĠcalm ly\nb usters\nĠble ed\nĠSt ro\nĠamuse ment\nĠAntar ctica\nĠs cept\nĠG aw\na q\nason ic\nĠsp rawling\nn ative\natur ated\nĠBattle field\nIV ERS\nE B\nĠG ems\nĠNorth western\nĠFil ms\nĠAut omatic\nĠappre hend\nãģ ¨\nĠgui Name\nĠback end\nĠevid enced\nge ant\n01 2\nĠS iege\nĠexternal To\nĠunfocused Range\nĠguiActiveUn focused\nĠgui Icon\nĠexternalTo EVA\nĠexternalToEVA Only\nF ri\nch ard\nen aries\nĠchief s\nĠc f\nĠH UD\nĠcorro bor\nĠd B\nĠT aken\nĠPat ricia\nra il\nĠCh arm\nĠLiber tarian\nrie ve\nPerson al\nĠO UR\nger ies\nĠdump ing\nĠneurolog ical\nit imate\nĠClint ons\nraft ed\nĠM olly\nĠtermin als\nreg ister\nĠfl are\nĠenc oded\nĠautop sy\np el\nm achine\nĠexempt ions\nĠRoy als\nd istance\nĠdraft s\nĠl ame\nĠC unning\nĠsp ouses\nĠMark ets\nĠCar rier\nĠimp lying\nĠY ak\ns id\nĠl oser\nĠvigil ant\nĠimpe achment\nĠaug mented\nĠEmploy ees\nĠunint ended\ntern ally\nĠW att\nĠrecogn izable\ness im\næ Ŀ\nĠco ated\nr ha\nĠlie utenant\nĠLegisl ation\npub lished\n44 4\n01 3\nĠide ally\nĠPass word\nĠsimpl ify\nĠMet a\nĠM RI\nĠple ading\norgan ized\nhand ler\nĠun ravel\ncor rect\nĠ icy\nĠparan oid\nĠpass er\nĠinspect ions\nof er\nĠHealth care\n28 3\nĠBr ut\niol a\nfor ge\nĠMed ieval\nMS N\nie vers\nĠProgram ming\nå ī\nĠ2 23\nm u\nĠC LE\nug a\nĠsho ppers\nĠinform ative\nĠPl ans\nĠsupplement ation\nĠT ests\nty ard\nocy tes\nĠVeg a\nĠGujar at\nerman ent\nEx cept\nĠL OT\nall a\nĠC umm\nĠO sw\nĠven om\nĠDeb t\nĠD OWN\nĠreun ion\nĠm uc\nĠRel ief\nĠge op\nĠðŁ ĺ\nal ogue\nAn th\nech o\nĠcor ros\nĠrepl ication\nĠBl azing\nĠD aughter\nĠinf lic\nĠLind sey\nÙ Ī\n28 4\nEx it\nĠgl oom\nTA IN\nĠundermin ing\nĠadv ising\nh idden\nĠover flow\nĠg or\nurd ue\nĠe choes\nenh agen\nĠimp uls\nd rug\nc ash\nĠas ync\nĠmir ac\nat ts\np unk\nĠpiv ot\nĠLegisl ative\nĠblog gers\nĠCl aw\ns burg\nd yl\nĠRecomm end\nĠver te\nĠprohib iting\nĠPant her\nJon athan\nĠo min\nĠhate ful\n28 1\nĠOr che\nĠMurd och\ndown s\nĠas ymm\nG ER\nAl ways\nĠinform s\nĠW M\nĠP ony\nĠApp endix\nĠAr lington\nJ am\nĠmedic inal\nĠS lam\nIT IES\nĠre aff\nĠR i\nF G\nS pring\nb ool\nĠthigh s\nĠmark ings\nĠRa qqa\nĠL ak\np oll\nts ky\nĠMort y\nĠDef inition\nĠdeb unk\nend ered\nĠLe one\na vers\nĠmortg ages\nApp arently\nN ic\nha us\nĠTh ousands\nau ld\nĠm ash\nsh oot\nĠdi arr\nĠconscious ly\nH ero\ne as\nĠN aturally\nĠDestroy er\nĠdash board\nserv ices\nR og\nĠmillenn ials\nĠinv ade\n- (\nĠcomm issions\nĠA uckland\nĠbroadcast s\nĠfront al\nĠcr ank\nĠHist oric\nĠrum ours\nCT V\nĠster il\nĠboost er\nrock et\nãĤ ¼\nut sche\nĠP I\nĠ2 33\nĠProdu cer\nĠAnaly tics\nĠinval uable\nĠunint ention\nĠC Y\nĠscrut in\nĠg igg\nĠeng ulf\nĠprolet ariat\nĠh acks\nĠH ew\nar ak\nĠSl ime\nield ing\nag her\nĠEll iot\nĠtele com\nĠ2 19\nult an\nĠAr bor\nĠSc outs\nB an\nĠlifes pan\nĠbl asp\n38 8\nĠjud iciary\nĠContin ental\nask ing\nMc C\nL ED\nĠbag gage\nĠSorce rer\nĠrem nants\nĠGriff ith\nets u\nĠSub aru\nĠPerson ality\ndes igned\nush ima\nagn ar\nĠrec oil\nĠpass ions\n\\ \":\nĠte e\nĠabol ition\nĠCreat ing\nj ac\nĠ19 4\n01 9\nĠpill ars\nric hed\n/ \"\nt k\nĠlive lihood\nĠro asted\nah on\nĠH utch\nass ert\nĠdivid end\nĠkn it\nĠd aunting\nĠdisturb ance\nĠsh ale\nĠcultiv ated\nĠrefriger ator\nL B\nĠN ET\nĠcommercial s\nĠthink ers\n45 5\nĠch op\nB road\nĠsuspic ions\nĠtag ged\nl ifting\nĠsty lish\nĠShield s\nShort ly\nĠt ails\nA uth\nST E\nĠG AME\nĠse ism\nĠK is\nolog ne\nĠcow ork\nĠforc ibly\nĠthy roid\nĠP B\nAN E\nmar ried\nh orse\nĠpoly mer\nĠCh al\nod or\nDE BUG\nĠCon text\nĠbl iss\nĠpin point\nĠMat hemat\nleg ram\nĠWeek end\nĠlab elled\nĠb art\nit les\nĠest rogen\nâĢĶâĢĶâĢĶâĢĶâĢĶâĢĶâĢĶâĢĶ âĢĶâĢĶâĢĶâĢĶâĢĶâĢĶâĢĶâĢĶ\n\" '\nĠvis ibly\nĠouts ider\naid a\nAre a\nĠdisse min\nĠdish onest\nĠCl osed\nĠBullet in\nĠRam sey\nsw ord\nĠX I\nour ced\nS ame\n34 6\nĠRe pe\nĠK ou\nc ake\nem is\nC ache\nĠMe aning\nĠEn light\nonom y\nĠmanifest ation\nsw orth\nJ ay\nĠch ore\nö r\nD ream\nĠsanction ed\nĠcult urally\nĠA ra\nN av\nĠthe ological\nĠstr ut\nĠV O\nĠHand book\nĠconstruct ing\nĠ ¶\nĠBenef its\nĠPsych ological\ns ac\nå ¸\np olicy\nĠMat ters\nĠReport ed\nĠBy te\nĠvit ro\nĠM aiden\nĠl am\nĠJenn ings\nĠgar ment\nĠRut gers\nĠStaff ord\nĠWell ington\nĠinter mitt\nĠn pm\nĠord eal\nĠplug ged\no oming\nin ished\nfram ework\nĠtim ber\nĠc ass\nĠ8 50\nil ess\nĠRed ux\n7 68\nSt re\nĠsurpass ed\nw hel\nĠparalle ls\nĠve il\nĠG I\nĠR EST\nĠread iness\ns ort\nĠmod ifying\nĠSl ate\nru ff\nĠmar ble\nĠinf rared\nĠaud itor\nĠFANT ASY\nĠP overty\nĠS PD\nĠ\" (\nK y\nRA Y\nĠexecut ions\nĠBever ly\nĠMarx ism\nĠBur st\nĠK ali\nest ones\nClear ly\nE ll\nãģ §\nĠProceed ings\nT oken\nIF IC\nñ a\nCent ral\nĠH aley\nĠD rama\nĠform ations\nOR N\nBook s\nĠdom inating\nĠFly ers\nĠCompan ion\nĠdiscipl ined\nĠYug oslav\nĠSpell s\nĠv engeance\nĠland lords\nL en\nĠO gre\nano ia\nĠpier cing\nĠcon greg\nĠscore r\nob ia\nĠnic kel\nĠLear ns\nĠre jo\nĠmaster piece\nFl ash\nĠinhab ited\nĠOpen GL\nĠD ud\nĠI CO\nĠar ter\nĠpl ur\nĠmaster y\nĠlong standing\nst ed\nĠw ines\nĠtelev ised\nĠSh rine\nĠBay ern\nĠâ ĵĺ\nĠencl osure\nj ohn\nĠprophe ts\nĠRes urrection\nĠOrd ers\nĠun even\nr als\nĠd wind\nĠL ah\nĠSl oven\n37 8\nĠins istence\naff le\nĠCl one\nĠhard ship\nĠCongress man\nĠple ad\nĠreview ers\nĠc ured\nĠ19 35\nas ley\nf ake\nĠTh inking\nyd ia\nP ART\nĠD ota\no it\nĠwh ipped\nĠb ouncing\nĠHispan ics\ncom ings\nĠcann abin\nĠCh ambers\nĠZ ack\nOption al\nĠco ats\nĠprow ess\nĠNort on\nĠplain ly\nĠfre ight\nĠinhib ition\nĠcl am\nĠ30 3\nke f\nale igh\nL uke\nĠpsych o\nator ium\nM ED\nĠtreat ies\nĠind isc\nĠd c\nOP S\nĠresil ient\nĠInter state\nĠsl ack\nĠmund ane\nĠestab lishes\n35 9\nĠstr ained\nĠn ond\nS us\nĠcast e\nar ate\nie ving\nĠunfair ly\nĠpars er\non ial\nurs ive\nV ia\nĠOtt o\nĠAuthor ities\nstro ke\nK R\nĠMer cy\nĠfurn ished\nĠout set\nĠmet ic\n19 82\nolith ic\nĠT ent\nog ical\nĠA ircraft\nĠh ides\nĠBec ame\nĠeduc ators\nre aching\nĠvol atility\nĠtodd ler\nĠNAS CAR\nĠTw elve\nĠHigh lights\nĠgra pe\nĠspl its\nĠpe asant\nĠre neg\nĠMS I\nTem p\nst ars\nĠtre k\nĠHy de\nb inding\nĠreal ism\nĠox ide\nĠH os\nĠmount s\nĠbit ing\nĠcollaps ing\nĠpost al\nĠmuse ums\nĠdet ached\nĠrespect ing\nĠmonop ol\nĠwork flow\nĠC ake\nTem plate\nĠOrgan isation\nĠpers istence\n36 9\nC oming\nB rad\nĠredund ant\nĠG TA\nĠb ending\nĠrev oked\nĠoff ending\nĠfram ing\nĠprint f\nComm un\nmem bers\nOut side\nĠconst rued\nĠc oded\nF ORE\nĠch ast\nCh at\nInd ian\nĠY ard\n? !\"\nĠP orts\nĠX avier\nĠR ET\n' .\"\nĠBo at\niv ated\nich t\numer able\nD s\nĠDun n\nĠcoff in\nĠsecure ly\nĠRapt ors\nĠB es\nInstall ation\nĠin ception\nĠHealth y\nend ants\nĠpsych ologists\nĠShe ikh\nc ultural\nĠBlack Berry\nsh ift\nF red\noc he\nĠc akes\nĠS EO\nĠG ian\nĠAs ians\nog ging\ne lement\nĠpund its\nĠV augh\nĠG avin\nĠh itter\nĠdrown ed\nĠch alk\nĠZ ika\nĠmeas les\n80 2\nâĢ¦ ..\nĠAW S\n] \"\nĠdist ort\nĠM ast\nĠantib odies\nĠM ash\nMem ory\nĠUg anda\nĠPro b\nĠvom 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AS\nĠDr aco\nĠMach ines\naff er\nĠem an\n ²\npr on\nĠG ym\nĠcompar atively\nĠTrib unal\nPR O\nĠle x\nĠfert ile\nĠdep ressing\nĠsuperf icial\ness ential\nĠHun ters\ng p\nĠprom inence\nL iber\nĠAn cest\note chnology\nĠm ocking\nĠTra ff\nĸ ļ\nMed ium\nI raq\nĠpsychiat rist\nQuant ity\nĠL ect\nĠno isy\n5 20\nG Y\nĠsl apped\nĠM TV\nĠpar a\np ull\nMult iple\nas her\nĠn our\nĠSe g\nSpe ll\nv ous\nord ial\nSen ior\nĠGold berg\nĠPl asma\nne ed\nĠmess enger\nere t\nĠteam ed\nĠliter acy\nĠLe ah\nĠD oyle\nĠem itted\nU X\nĠev ade\nĠm aze\nĠwrong ly\nĠL ars\nĠstere otype\nĠpled ges\nĠarom a\nĠM ET\nĠac re\nĠO D\nĠf f\nĠbrew eries\nĠH ilton\nund le\nĠK ak\nĠThank fully\nĠCan ucks\nin ctions\nĠApp ears\nĠco er\nĠundermin ed\nro vers\nAnd re\nĠbl aze\num ers\nĠfam ine\namp hetamine\nulk an\nAm ount\nĠdesper ation\nwik ipedia\ndevelop ment\nĠCor inth\nuss ia\nJack son\nL I\nN ative\nR s\nOh io\nĠKath leen\nF ortunately\nĠattend ant\nĠPre ferred\nĠDid n\nĠV s\nM is\nĠrespond ent\nĠb oun\nst able\nĠp 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W\nĠw inger\nĠD ome\nt ools\nĠP V\nĠGe orgetown\nĠg eared\nĠjihad ists\nĠc p\nĠster oids\nM other\ncler osis\nĠDR M\nnes ia\nĠl inger\nĠimm ersive\nĠC OUN\nĠoutwe igh\nens ual\nB and\nĠtransform s\nmat ched\nps ons\nĠJud icial\nf actor\nĠrefer ral\nĠodd ly\nĠW enger\nB ring\nĠB ows\n60 2\nIC LE\nĠl ions\nĠAcad emic\nĠTh orn\nĠRa ider\nkef eller\nSt orage\nL ower\nĠOr t\nĠEqu ality\nAL T\nĠS OC\nT ypes\nĠl yn\nĠAss et\nco at\nTP P\nC VE\nĠPione er\napp lication\nMod ern\nĠH K\nEn vironment\nAl right\nR ain\nIP P\nĠShi ite\nĠm ound\nĠAb ilities\ncond ition\nSt aff\nĠcompet ence\nĠM oor\nĠDi ablo\nĠwith held\nĠost ensibly\nĠB rom\nĠms g\nĠden omin\nĠRef erences\nĠF P\nĠplun ged\nĠp amph\nm oving\ncent ral\nĠdown right\nĠf ading\nT al\nT yp\nĠTh y\nuk es\nit he\nĠo ve\nĠbatt led\nĠseaf ood\nĠfig ur\nĠR D\nc rop\nĠsqu ads\n{ \\\nà ¹\nĠE h\nĠinterview ing\nĠQ in\nĠas piring\nPL IC\nĠcla uses\nĠG ast\nĠN ir\nĠl uggage\nĠh ose\nĠsystem d\nĠdesc ending\nĠRev ised\nĠR ails\nal ign\n70 9\n33 7\nĠf ug\ncharg ing\nt ags\nĠut er\nk ish\nWAR NING\n49 0\nprof its\nĠvoy age\nĠa ce\nĠV anguard\nĠT anks\nĠM uk\nĠ2 26\nS afe\nAr mor\nĠvolcan ic\nĠwom b\nĠM IL\nĠbegin ner\nĠRec ogn\nĠA AP\nPL AY\n) !\nĠdetect ing\nc n\nĠbre aches\nBas ically\nĠP ag\nĠMunicip al\nĠInd ie\nĠL af\nĠDis able\nĠOl son\nĠrest rained\nĠrul ings\nĠhum ane\nev ents\nĠCinem a\ndisplay Text\nĠH atch\naction Date\nonna issance\nĠassault ing\nĠL ug\nCH AT\nĠvig orous\nĠPer se\nĠintoler ance\nĠSnap chat\nĠSh arks\nĠd ummy\nĠDi agn\nĠGu itar\nim eters\n40 3\nRE G\nA x\nĠsepar ates\nĠMah m\nĠt v\nj ah\nO OL\nC irc\nĠWinds or\nuss ian\nĠintu ition\nĠdis dain\nĠDon ovan\nĠ2 21\nE mb\nĠcondem ning\nĠgener osity\nzz y\nĠpant ies\nĠPre vent\nAction Code\nAN A\n34 2\nexternal ActionCode\nĠspec ifying\nĠcryst all\nJ ere\nĠru pt\nĠApp rentice\nĠprof iling\nÐ º\nSt rike\nĠsid eline\nĠoblig ated\nĠocc ult\nĠbureaucr atic\nant ically\nrupt ed\nneg ative\nĠEthiop ia\nĠC ivic\nĠins iders\nel igible\nĠTV s\nĠB AR\nĠT I\ni 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uler\nvert ising\noff ice\nxx x\nĠra ft\nCh anged\nĠtext books\nL inks\nĠO mn\nãĢ ij\nĠinconven ience\nĠDon etsk\n= ~\nĠimplicit ly\nĠboost s\nĠB ones\nĠBo om\nCour tesy\nĠsens ational\nAN Y\nĠgre edy\ned en\nĠinex per\nĠL er\nĠV ale\nĠtight en\nĠE AR\nĠN um\nĠancest or\nS ent\nĠH orde\nurg ical\nall ah\nĠsa p\namb a\nĠSp read\ntw itch\nĠgrand son\nĠfract ure\nĠmoder ator\nĠSe venth\nĠRe verse\nĠestim ation\nCho ose\nĠpar ach\nĠbar ric\nãĢ IJ\nĠcomp ass\nĠall ergic\nâĢ ķ\nOT HER\nerr illa\nĠw agon\nĠz inc\nĠrub bed\nĠFull er\nĠLuxem bourg\nĠHoo ver\nĠli ar\nĠEven ing\nĠCob b\nest eem\nĠselect or\nĠB rawl\nis ance\nĠE k\nĠtro op\nĠg uts\nĠApp eal\nĠTibet an\nĠrout ines\nĠM ent\nĠsummar ized\nsteam apps\nĠtr anqu\nĠ19 29\nor an\nĠAut hent\nĠg maxwell\nĠappre hens\nĠpo ems\nĠsa usage\nĠWeb ster\nur us\nĠthem ed\nĠl ounge\nĠcharg er\nSp oiler\nĠsp illed\nh og\nĠSu nder\nĠA in\nĠAng ry\nĠdis qual\nĠFrequ ency\nĠEther net\nĠhel per\nPer cent\nĠhorr ifying\nĠa il\nĠAll an\nEE E\nĠCross 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§\ny out\nl ibrary\nĠbo oming\nĠBel ieve\nĠTe acher\nĠL iv\nĠGOOD MAN\nĠDomin ican\nOR ED\nĠPart ies\nĠprecip itation\nĠSl ot\nR oy\nĠComb ined\nĠinteg rating\nĠch rome\nĠintest inal\nĠRe bell\nĠmatch ups\nĠblock buster\nĠLore n\nĠLe vy\nĠpre aching\nĠS ending\nĠPur pose\nra x\nf if\nĠauthor itative\nĠP ET\nast ical\nĠdish on\nĠchat ting\nĠ\"$ :/\nConnect ion\nĠrecre ate\nĠdel inqu\nĠbro th\nĠD irty\nĠAd min\nz man\nĠscholars hips\nĠ25 3\ncont act\nals a\n7 67\nc reen\nabb age\nĠ19 15\nĠbl ended\nĠal armed\nL anguage\n35 6\nĠbl ends\nĠCh anged\nW olf\nĠhe pat\nCreat ing\nĠper secut\nĠsweet ness\nart e\nĠforfe iture\nĠRober to\nim pro\nN FL\nĠMag net\nDet ailed\nĠinsign ificant\nĠPOL IT\nĠBB Q\nĠC PS\nĠse aw\namin er\nm L\nend if\nf inals\nĠ26 5\nu ish\nĠ} )\nĠPro blems\nĠem blem\nĠserious ness\nĠpars ing\nĠsubst itution\nĠpress ured\nĠrecy cled\nale b\nRub y\nĠprof iciency\nDri ver\nĠW ester\n: '\nAF TA\nĠm antle\nĠClay ton\nfl ag\nĠpractition er\nc overed\nĠSt ruct\nadd afi\n4 25\nĠTown ship\nĠHyd ro\nLou is\n34 3\nĠcond o\nĠT ao\nĠutil ization\nĠnause a\nĠDem s\nrid ges\np ause\nĠform ulas\nĠchall enger\n37 6\nĠdefect ive\nĠRail way\nĠPub Med\nĠyog urt\nl bs\nĠNor folk\nOP E\nĠMood y\nĠdistribut or\nĠscroll s\nĠextract s\nSt an\nĠv iability\nĠexp oses\nĠstar vation\nĠStep s\nĠD odd\nf ew\nST D\n33 2\nĠclos ures\nĠcomplement ary\nĠS asha\nump y\nĠmon et\nĠartic ulate\nĠDo ct\nk iller\nĠsc rim\nĠ2 64\nĠprost itutes\nĠse vered\nĠattach ments\nĠcool ed\nL ev\nĠF alk\nf ail\nĠpolic eman\nĠD ag\nĠpray ed\nĠK ernel\nĠcl ut\nĠc ath\nĠan omaly\nSt orm\nem aker\nĠBreak fast\nul i\no ire\nJ J\nh z\nOper ation\nĠS ick\n35 4\nĠGuatem ala\nR ate\nĠexp osures\nf aces\nĠArch ae\nra f\nĠM ia\nĠ20 25\nĠop aque\nĠdisgu ised\nĠHead quarters\nS ah\nĠp ots\n9 78\nĠM alf\nĠfrown ed\nĠpoison ous\nĠCon vers\nee ks\nĠcr ab\n.\" \"\nĠtre ason\nĠr anc\nĠescal ating\nĠwar r\nĠmob s\nĠl amps\nĠSun shine\nĠBrun swick\nPh ones\nĠspe lled\nĠSk ip\nĠ20 50\nĠ19 11\nĠPl uto\nĠAm end\nĠme ats\n38 7\nĠst omp\nĠZh ou\nĠLevi athan\nĠHaz ard\nad v\nĠOr well\nĠal oud\nĠb umper\nĠAn arch\nub untu\nĠSer ious\nf itting\nĠOption al\nĠCec il\nRE AM\nĠser otonin\nĠcultiv ate\nag ogue\n} \\\nĠmos ques\nĠSun ny\nĠre active\nrev olution\nĠL up\nĠFed ora\nĠdefense man\nĠV ID\nist ine\nĠdrown ing\nĠBroad casting\nĠthr iller\nĠS cy\nĠacceler ating\nĠdirect s\nod ied\nb ike\nd uration\nĠpain fully\nR edd\nĠproduct ions\nĠg ag\nĠwh ist\nĠs ock\nĠinf initely\nĠConc ern\nĠCit adel\nĠlie u\nĠcand les\nogene ous\narg er\nĠheaven ly\ninflamm atory\nPer formance\nC s\nruct ose\naz aki\nĠp essim\nĠinf erence\nĠpow d\nĠZ oe\nĠpain ts\nĠd azz\npt a\n-------- ---\nĠins pir\nĠExper imental\nĠKn ife\nreg or\nb ors\nĠshow ers\nrom eda\nĠs aint\nĠben ign\nĠJ iang\nĠenvision ed\nĠsh roud\nIF T\nH O\nĠsh uff\nĠI CC\nĠse greg\nĠrevis it\nighth ouse\nL i\nĠsub strate\nĠSe as\nĠRew ard\nĠH ep\nĠBr ass\ns bm\nĠelim inates\nĠst amina\nĠV AT\nĠLo an\nĠconst raint\nĠappropri ated\nĠp es\nĠA LE\nr anging\nĠ40 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ie\nĠabol ished\nĠThom son\nĠTe achers\nĠW ass\nj ong\nĠIS BN\nĠAll ies\nsh ake\nå ·\nv ict\nHow ard\nĠde em\nĠexceed ingly\nĠSmart stocks\nib e\nĠdoor way\nĠcompet ed\nig mat\nĠnational ists\nĠg room\nĠKe en\nĠdispos able\nde cl\nĠT olkien\nĠSche me\nĠb iod\nĠav id\nĠEl on\nag ar\nĠT SA\nR oman\nĠartific ially\nĠadvis ors\nX L\nĠInf erno\n36 6\nĠted ious\nĠPhot ography\nĠCar rie\nĠtro pe\nĠSand ra\nĠdec imal\nQue en\nĠGund am\nĠO M\note ch\nN BA\nĠ19 32\nĠent renched\nĠMar ion\nĠfr aternity\nLab our\nHen ry\nĠlat itude\nE ither\nĠenh ances\nĠPot ential\nĠsh ines\nid ad\nĠbread th\nĠcapac ities\nĠðŁ ĻĤ\nĠBron x\nĠsex es\nĠdifferent iation\nĠheavy weight\nĠT aj\nd ra\nĠmigr ate\nĠexhaust ion\nĠR UN\nels ius\nĠCu omo\nĠgu itars\nĠcl ones\nĠSom ew\nĠP ry\n------------ -\nĠwarr anted\ncy cles\nĠsalv age\nĠdis ks\nR ANT\nĠNGO s\nĠMart ian\n\":[ {\"\nĠadd icts\noj ure\nil let\nĠamazing ly\nart ments\np ixel\nĠGPU s\nLay out\nè £\nĠTam il\nĠBas il\nĠimpart ial\nĠSt ructure\nf ork\nb ryce\nĠr 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ally\nĠmant ra\np aying\nĠiv ory\nĠCour ts\nOU GH\naunt let\nSer ial\nB row\nĠH undreds\n3 23\nĠpe e\nĠlin ux\nĠsub mer\nĠPrinc ipal\n48 5\nĠD SL\nĠCous ins\nĠdoctr ines\nĠAthlet ics\nĠ3 15\nĠK arma\nĠatt ent\nur ger\nĠpresc ribe\nĠenc aps\nĠC ame\nĠsecret ive\nĠCr imes\nd n\nC lean\nĠEgypt ians\nĠCar penter\nĠ ll\nH um\nĠMil o\nĠcapital ists\nĠbrief ed\nT we\nĠBas in\nelve t\nM os\nĠplun ge\nĠKa iser\nĠFu j\nill in\nĠsafegu ards\nĠo ste\nĠOpportun ity\nĠM afia\nĠCall ing\nap a\nur ban\nbr ush\nill ard\nc é\nint elligence\nĠL ob\nĠDru id\nĠsm oother\nĠfoot ing\nĠmotor ists\narc ity\nĠmascul inity\nĠm ism\nĠabdom inal\nĠTa vern\nĠR oh\nĠesc apes\ns igned\nAnth ony\nĠsacrific ing\nĠintim acy\nĠan terior\nĠK od\nĠmot if\nĠg raz\nĠvisual ization\nĠguitar ist\nĠTro tsky\nm agic\nD ar\nĠMor i\nĠw ards\nĠtoile ts\nl est\nĠtele port\nĠSund ays\nĠPl at\nET S\nĠe Sports\nPat rick\nĠK atherine\nen ko\nĠhas sle\nĠM ick\ngg les\nĠh ob\naint ain\nĠair borne\nĠsp ans\nĠch ili\nĠa perture\nĠvolunte ered\nĠInc ident\nĠF res\nĠVeter an\naugh tered\ning o\nĠun insured\nCL OSE\nĠf use\nĠer otic\nĠadvert ise\nra ising\nText ure\nĠatt ends\nĠRE AL\nudd led\nĠsm oot\nĠ30 5\nĠWill is\nĠbl ond\nAn alysis\nĠV T\non ica\nĠstrongh old\nR F\nN M\n. >>\nĠprosper ous\nĠbo asted\n29 2\nĠManufact uring\nPR ESS\ng ren\nĠpharm acy\nĠRoc kefeller\nk ai\nĠth umbs\nĠH ut\nĠmother board\nĠguard ians\nĠAl ter\nll ular\nĠsh ack\nĠwise ly\nĠback bone\nerv a\nĠsu icides\nĠMcG regor\nij ah\nE mer\nĠB rav\nĠdesign ate\nP OST\nprodu ced\nĠcleans ing\nirl wind\nex istent\nĠHum ph\nĠPay ne\nĠv ested\nÅ ¡\nĠstring ent\nion a\nĠuns ub\nĠsum med\nĠHer cules\nsub ject\nĠR agnar\nĠN os\nĠcharacter ization\nĠsav vy\nĠDaw son\nĠCas ino\nĠf ri\nĠBar rier\nĠmis information\nĠins ulation\nĠcorrid ors\nĠair planes\nĠNo ct\nah i\nĠ19 16\nk b\narm ac\nĠsh un\nĠsche ma\nĠhorr ified\nĠ23 9\naund ers\nN B\ni ates\ner ity\nĠSh ard\nĠr arity\nĠgroup ed\nĠGh ana\nagain st\nĠBi ological\nĠA ware\now ell\nÏ Ħ\nĠBe au\nsh aw\nH 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IC\nm ite\nĠCEO s\nĠChap el\nellig ent\n________________ ________\nD og\nĠw art\nĠsubsc riber\ns ports\nĠbe gged\nĠM V\nĠsem if\neth ical\nĠpre ach\nĠrev ital\nĠpun itive\nĠshort cuts\nĠinstit uted\nĠWars aw\nĠabdom en\nĠK ING\nĠsuper intendent\nĠf ry\nĠGe o\nT OR\nĠcontrad ictions\napt ic\nĠlandsc apes\nb ugs\nĠcl ust\nĠvol ley\nc ribed\nĠt andem\nĠrob es\nWH AT\nĠpromot er\nĠel oqu\nreview ed\nĠD K\nĠPl ato\nĠf ps\nT ank\nĠDer rick\nĠpriorit ize\nas per\nĠHond uras\nĠCom pleted\nne c\nĠm og\nn ir\nĠMay o\nDE F\nst all\nin ness\nĠVolks wagen\nĠprec aution\nĠM ell\ni ak\nist ries\nĠ24 8\nĠoverl apping\nSen ate\nĠEnh ance\nres y\nrac ial\nOR TS\nĠM ormons\nStr ong\nĠCo ch\nMex ico\nĠMad uro\nĠj ars\nĠcan e\nW ik\noll a\niff erence\nĠphysic ist\nĠMag gie\nĠ28 5\nĠdep iction\nĠMcL aren\nJ u\nĠsl ows\nĠcommission ers\nĠWill ow\nĠExpl os\nhov ah\nĠtechn ician\nĠhom icides\nĠFl av\nĠTr uman\nĠ100 00\nu ctor\nĠsh ader\nNews letter\n45 7\nĠre ver\nĠhard ened\nĠwhere abouts\nĠrede velop\nĠcar bs\nĠtra vers\nĠsqu irrel\nĠfoll ower\nĠs ings\n50 8\nĠrabb its\nemon ium\nĠdocument ing\nĠmisunder stood\n) '\nR ick\ngg ies\nĠprem ie\nĠsk ating\nĠpass ports\nĠf ists\naged don\nH aw\nAC P\n0 80\nĠThough ts\nĠCarl son\nĠpriest hood\nh ua\nĠdun geons\nĠLo ans\nĠant is\nĠfamiliar ity\nĠS abb\nop al\nĠIn k\nst rike\nĠc ram\nĠlegal ized\nĠcu isine\nĠfib re\nTra vel\nĠMon ument\nOD Y\neth y\nĠinter state\nĠP UR\nem porary\nĠArab ian\ndevelop ed\nĠsadd le\nĠg ithub\nĠOff er\nĠIS P\nro let\nĠSUP ER\nĠDen is\nĠmultipl ier\nĠstir red\nInterest ingly\nĠcustom ary\nĠbill ed\nhe x\nĠmultipl ied\nĠfl ipping\nĠCros by\nĠfundament als\nia e\nĠPlay ed\nĠAt om\nam azon\nĠFl am\nee z\nactiv ated\nĠtables poon\nĠliberal ism\nĠPal in\nĠP atel\nN um\nĠT AM\nĠs urn\nĠRel oaded\nĠco ined\n\" ],\nĠCl ash\nĠAg u\nĠprag matic\nĠActiv ate\nĠ8 02\nĠtrail ers\nĠsil hou\nĠprob es\nĠcirc us\nĠB ain\nĠLind say\nĠAb bey\nDel ivery\nĠconcess ion\nĠgast ro\nĠSpr ite\nÄ Ł\nand el\nĠg imm\nĠaut obi\nĠT urtle\nĠwonder fully\nĠHar am\nĠWorld wide\nĠHand le\nĠtheor ists\nĠsle ek\nĠZh u\nograph ically\nEG A\nĠOwn ers\nath s\nĠAntar ctic\nn atal\n=\" \"\nfl ags\n`` ``\nĠs ul\nK h\nĠpot assium\nĠlinem an\nĠcere al\nĠSe asons\nĠ20 22\nĠmat hematic\nĠastron omers\nprof essional\nĠf ares\ncknow led\nĠch i\nĠyoung sters\nĠmistaken ly\nĠhem isphere\nĠDiv inity\nr one\nĠ\" ,\nr ings\nĠattract s\nv ana\nå ¹\nC AP\nĠplay list\nĠpor ch\nãģ £\nĠincorpor ates\nĠso ak\nĠassert ing\nĠTerror ism\nĠP ablo\nJ a\nces ter\nĠfear ing\nĠPr ayer\nĠescal ated\nG W\nĠro be\nĠBright on\nac ists\nĠSym phony\nĠDwar f\nĠPar ade\nĠLe go\nĠinex pl\nĠl ords\nle af\nRA G\nl iber\nĠcig ars\nĠJe hovah\n60 6\nWIND OWS\nĠLiber ia\neb us\nHe avy\nĠl ubric\nĠR W\nangu ages\nĠnarrow ed\ncom puter\nĠE mber\nĠmurder ing\nĠdown stream\nĠT uls\nĠT ables\nTop ic\nĠAcc uracy\n= /\nl ost\nĠRe i\nĠprogress es\nb ear\nĠestablish ments\nJust in\nĠPe ach\nĠG omez\nå ¿\nĠTri angle\nId ent\nĠH ive\nRes ources\nĠmix es\nĠAss uming\nM u\nĠhyp oc\nĠs ane\nĠW an\nid ious\nSu ccess\nĠ io\nAng el\nĠdanger ously\nĠCreat ure\nW ORK\n: [\nĠKat rina\nList ener\nM iller\nĠId lib\nh ang\nĠcircum vent\nh ref\nĠcel estial\nĠWe eks\nĠP ug\nĠDal ton\nĠsubpoen a\nuk u\nĠpers isted\npe i\nold ing\nĠDoc uments\nĠH ast\nĠC ENT\nĠprim er\nĠsyn onymous\nĠn ib\nom bs\nĠnot ation\nĠD ish\nĠAt mosp\nĠforb id\nĠAN G\npat tern\nl os\nĠproject iles\nb rown\n.\" ,\nĠVen om\nĠfierce ly\nub lished\nĠU ran\nĠNic arag\n4 10\nĠC AL\nOT OS\nĠMir acle\nĠEn chant\nĠguard ing\napp end\nAtt ach\nĠlevel ed\nĠcond oms\nih ilation\n64 9\nĠnight mares\nĠTHE Y\nĠST ART\nĠK inn\nĠroomm ate\nĠhy giene\no pping\nJ ob\nĠl vl\nĠV ER\nĠKe eping\nab etic\nĠformat ting\neral a\nĠrev isions\nĠres urg\nT el\nĠGood man\n35 3\np od\nĠind isp\nĠTrans lation\nĠg own\nĠM und\nĠc is\nĠby stand\ncol lect\nĠPun jab\nact ively\nĠG amb\nte ll\nĠimport ing\ng encies\nĠloc om\nĠBr ill\nH oly\nĠBer ger\nĠshow down\nĠrespond ers\nIL Y\nĠt akedown\nle ted\nĠmat tered\nĠpredict ive\nĠover lay\nG PU\nĠV ick\nĠconvey ed\nT ab\npe er\nSc an\nĠdefensive ly\nv ae\nĠappro ving\nĠt iers\nĠV ia\nquer ade\nĠSaud is\nĠdemol ished\nĠProp he\nĠmon o\nĠhospital ity\nH AM\nĠAri el\nM OD\nĠTor ah\nĠbl ah\nĠBel arus\nerent ial\nĠT uc\nĠbank er\n39 7\nĠmosqu it\nĠScient ist\nĠMus ical\nĠh ust\nSh ift\nĠtor ment\nĠstand off\nE duc\nĠF og\nĠampl ifier\nSh ape\nInst ance\nĠCrit ics\nĠda emon\nH ouston\nĠmatt ress\nĠID F\nĠobsc ene\nĠA mer\nhett i\nĠcomp iling\n35 2\nvere tt\nĠRed uction\nist ration\nĠBl essed\nĠB achelor\n3 16\nĠpr ank\nĠVul can\ndd ing\nĠm ourning\nĠQu int\nĠBl aster\ntest ing\nĠsed iment\n>> >\nĠE ternity\nĠWH ERE\nĠM aze\nĠreact ing\nĠAl v\noms day\nĠC RA\nĠtransl ator\nĠbog us\nat u\nWe bsite\noll s\nĠbapt ism\nĠs ibling\nĠAut umn\nve z\nãģ® é\ngu ards\nGe org\nassad ors\nĠFre ud\nĠcontin ents\nĠReg istry\nBern ie\nĸļ 士\nĠtoler ant\nĠU W\nĠhor ribly\n99 5\nĠMID I\nĠimpat ient\noc ado\ner i\nĠWor st\nĠNor ris\nĠTalk ing\nĠdef ends\nens able\nĠ20 21\nĠanat omy\nL ew\nĠdraw er\nĠCan berra\nĠpatri otic\né¾įå ĸļ士\nĠAv g\nAR M\nĠundis closed\nĠfare well\n45 9\nb able\nĠAll ison\nOL OG\nĠcon co\nt ight\nĠAC PI\nĠM ines\nl ich\nĠâĶ ľ\nrepresent ed\n200 000\nĠenthusi ast\nOT S\nb il\nĠIng redients\nĠinvent or\nĠMy SQL\n³³ Âł\nĠAB OUT\nwith in\nĠm k\nB ul\nĠF ake\nĠdracon ian\nW a\nhel m\nĠTer ran\nerv ille\nĠcommon place\nSI ZE\nĠ\" <\nre place\nograph s\nĠSE LECT\ninc ible\nĠMost ly\nĠShe ffield\nĠID E\nugg le\nĠcit ations\nh urst\nĠUn ix\nĠunle ash\nĠP iper\nĠN ano\nĠsucc umb\nĠreluct ance\nĠ25 00\nĠMer chant\nĠwire t\nĠcomb os\nĠBirth day\nĠchar coal\nĠU PS\nĠFair fax\nĠdrive way\nĠT ek\nĠP itch\nove re\nĠtechn icians\nĠAct ual\nfl ation\nĠF iscal\nĠEm pty\nan amo\nĠmag nesium\nĠsl ut\nĠgrow ers\nInvest igators\n( ):\nĠS atellite\nĠKe ynes\nmiss ive\nl ane\nĠb orough\n3 44\nĠTE AM\nĠBet hesda\nC V\nh ower\nĠR AD\nĠch ant\nĠR iy\nĠcompos itions\nĠmild ly\nĠmedd ling\nĠag ility\nane ers\n5 01\nĠsyn th\nling er\n29 1\nĠex claimed\nPart y\nĠcont amin\nĠMan or\nĠResp ond\nĠpra ising\nĠman ners\nfle et\nSum mer\nĠLy nd\nĠDef initely\ngr im\nĠbow ling\nst ri\nç Ľ\ny nt\nĠmand ates\nD IV\nĠreconc ile\nview s\nĠDam on\nvet te\nF lo\nĠGreat est\nil on\nic ia\nĠportray al\nĠcush ion\n50 4\n19 79\noss al\nApp lic\nsc ription\nĠmit igation\nAT S\np ac\nĠer ased\nĠdefic iencies\nĠHolland e\nĠX u\nĠb red\nĠpregn ancies\nf emin\nĠem ph\nĠpl anners\nĠout per\nutter ing\nĠperpet rator\nĠm otto\nĠEll ison\nĠNE VER\nĠadmitted ly\nAR I\nĠAzerbai jan\nĠmill isec\nĠcombust ion\nĠBott le\nĠL und\nĠP s\nĠD ress\nĠfabric ated\nĠbat tered\nĠs idel\nĠNot ting\nFore ign\nĠJer ome\n0 20\nĠAr bit\nĠkn ots\nĠR IGHT\nM oving\nãģ Ļ\nĠsur geries\nĠcour thouse\nĠm astered\nĠhover ing\nĠBr an\nĠAl ison\nĠsaf est\nm ilitary\nĠbull ied\nĠbar rage\nRead er\nES E\nĠGe ographic\nT ools\n3 14\nĠGe ek\nro th\ngl ers\nĠF IN\nÏ ģ\nĠA ston\nal tern\n48 8\nĠveter in\nG amer\nĠint el\nren ches\nSh ield\nĠam nesty\nĠB har\nĠp iled\nĠhonor able\nĠInst itutes\nĠso aked\nĠcom a\nĠE FF\n34 1\nby tes\nĠG mail\nle in\nĠCanad iens\nm aterial\nI l\nĠinstruct ors\nĠK Y\nĠconce ive\nub b\nĠP ossible\nĠeas ing\nĠChrist ina\nĠcar ic\nĠHD R\nR OM\nĠsho vel\nde lete\nĠp uff\nĠCh anging\nĠseam lessly\nAtt ribute\nĠacqu isitions\nak ery\nĠE F\nĠaut istic\nĠT akes\nĠPow der\nĠSt ir\n5 10\nĠBub ble\nsett ings\nĠF owler\nĠmust ard\nĠmore over\nĠcopyright ed\nĠLED s\n15 00\næ ī\nĠH IS\nen f\nĠcust od\nĠH uck\nG i\nĠim g\nAn swer\nC t\nj ay\nĠInf rastructure\nĠfeder ally\nL oc\nĠmicro bes\nĠover run\ndd s\not ent\nadi ator\n>>>> >>>>\nĠtorn ado\nĠadj ud\nĠintrig ued\nĠs i\nĠRevel ation\npro gress\nĠburgl ary\nĠSai yan\nĠK athy\nĠser pent\nĠAndre as\nĠcomp el\ness ler\nĠPl astic\nĠAd vent\nĠPos itive\nĠQ t\nĠHind us\nreg istered\nular ity\nĠrighteous ness\nĠdemon ic\nu itive\nĠB DS\nĠGre gg\nc ia\nĠCrus ade\nĠSina i\nW ARE\n+ (\nĠme ll\nĠder ail\ny ards\nA st\nĠnotice ably\nĠO ber\nR am\nĠun noticed\nĠse q\nav age\nT s\nĠ6 40\nĠconced e\nĠ] )\nF ill\nĠcapt ivity\nĠImprove ment\nĠCrus ader\nara oh\nM AP\næ Ĺ\nĠstr ide\nal ways\nF ly\nN it\nĠal gae\nĠCook ing\nĠDo ors\nMal ley\nĠpolic emen\nãģ į\nĠastron aut\naccess ible\n49 5\nĠR AW\ncl iffe\nudic rous\nĠdep ended\nal ach\nĠvent ures\nra ke\nĠt its\nĠH ou\nĠcond om\normon al\nĠind ent\nĠupload ing\nFoot note\nImport ant\nĠ27 1\nĠmind ful\nĠcont ends\nC ra\nĠcal ibr\nĠO ECD\nplug in\nF at\nĠIS S\nĠDynam ics\nans en\n68 6\n' ),\nĠsp rite\nĠhand held\nĠH ipp\n=~ =~\nTr ust\nĠsem antics\nĠBund es\nĠRen o\nĠLiter ature\ns ense\nG ary\nĠA eg\nĠTr in\nEE K\nĠcler ic\nĠSS H\nĠch rist\nĠinv ading\nib u\nĠen um\naur a\nĠal lege\nĠInc redible\nB BC\nĠth ru\nĠsa iled\nĠem ulate\nĠin security\nĠc rou\nĠaccommod ations\nĠincompet ent\nĠsl ips\nĠEarth qu\ns ama\nIL LE\nĠi Phones\nas aki\nĠby e\nĠar d\nĠext ras\nĠsl aughtered\nĠcrowd funding\nres so\nĠfil ib\nĠER ROR\nĠT LS\ne gg\nĠIt al\nĠen list\nĠCatal onia\nĠSc ots\nĠser geant\nĠdiss olve\nN H\nĠstand ings\nri que\nI Q\nĠbenef iciary\nĠaqu arium\nYou Tube\nĠPower Shell\nĠbright est\nĠWar rant\nS old\nWrit ing\nĠbegin nings\nĠRes erved\nĠLatin os\nhead ing\nĠ4 40\nĠrooft op\nAT ING\nĠ3 90\nVP N\nG s\nk ernel\nturn ed\nĠprefer able\nĠturn overs\nĠH els\nS a\nĠShin ji\nve h\nĠMOD ULE\nV iol\nĠex iting\nĠj ab\nĠVan illa\nĠac ron\nĠG ap\nber n\nA k\nĠMc Gu\nĠend lessly\nĠFar age\nĠNo el\nV a\nM K\nĠbr ute\nĠK ru\nĠES V\nĠOl ivia\nâĢ ł\nĠK af\nĠtrust ing\nĠh ots\n3 24\nĠmal aria\nĠj son\nĠp ounding\nort ment\nCount ry\nĠpostp oned\nĠunequ iv\n? ),\nĠRo oney\nudd ing\nĠLe ap\nur rence\nsh apeshifter\nĠH AS\nos ate\nĠca vern\nĠconserv atism\nĠB AD\nĠmile age\nĠarrest ing\nV aults\nĠmix er\nDem ocratic\nĠB enson\nĠauth ored\n8 000\nĠpro active\nĠSpirit ual\nt re\nĠincarcer ated\nĠS ort\nĠpe aked\nĠwield ing\nre ciation\n×Ļ ×\nP atch\nĠEm my\nĠex qu\ntt o\nĠRat io\nĠP icks\nĠG ry\nph ant\nĠf ret\nĠeth n\nĠarch ived\n% -\nc ases\nĠBl aze\nĠim b\nc v\ny ss\nim ony\nĠcount down\nĠaw akening\nĠTunis ia\nĠRe fer\nĠM J\nĠun natural\nĠCar negie\niz en\nĠN uggets\nhe ss\nĠev ils\n64 7\nĠintrodu ctory\nl oving\nĠMcM ahon\nĠambig uity\nL abel\nĠAlm ighty\nĠcolor ing\nĠCl aus\nset ting\nN ULL\nĠF avorite\nĠS IG\n> (\nĠSh iva\nĠMay er\nĠstorm ed\nĠCo verage\nwe apons\nigh am\nĠun answered\nĠle ve\nĠc oy\nc as\nb ags\nas ured\nSe attle\nĠSant orum\nser ious\nĠcourage ous\nĠS oup\nĠconfisc ated\nĠ// /\nĠuncon ventional\nĠmom s\nĠRohing ya\nĠOrche stra\nĠPot ion\nĠdisc redit\nĠF IL\nf ixed\nĠDe er\ndo i\nĠDim ension\nĠbureaucr ats\net een\nĠaction Group\noh m\nĠb umps\nĠUt ility\nĠsubmar ines\nren heit\nre search\nĠShap iro\nĠsket ches\nĠde ceptive\nĠV il\nes ame\nĠEss entially\nĠramp age\nisk y\nĠmut tered\nth ritis\nĠ23 6\nf et\nb ars\nĠpup il\nĠTh ou\no S\ns ong\nĠfract ured\nĠre vert\npict ure\nĠcrit erion\nus her\nĠreperc ussions\nĠV intage\nĠSuper intendent\nOffic ers\nĠflag ged\nĠbl ames\nĠin verse\nograp hers\nĠmakes hift\nĠdev oid\nĠfoss ils\nĠArist otle\nĠFund s\nĠde pleted\nĠFl u\nĠY uan\nĠw oes\nĠlip id\nĠsit u\nrequ isites\nĠfurn ish\nĠSam ar\nĠshame ful\nĠadverse ly\nĠad ept\nĠrem orse\nĠmurder ous\nuck les\nĠE SL\nĠ3 14\ns ent\nĠred ef\nĠC ache\nĠP urs\nig ans\nĠ4 60\nĠpres criptions\nĠf res\nF uck\nocr ates\nTw enty\nĠWe ird\nĠT oggle\nĠC alled\nitiz ens\nĠp oultry\nĠharvest ing\nãĤ¦ ãĤ¹\nBott om\nĠcaution ed\nt n\n39 6\nĠNik ki\nĠeval uations\nĠharass ing\nĠbind ings\nĠMon etary\nĠhit ters\nĠadvers ary\nun ts\nĠset back\nĠenc rypt\nĠC ait\nĠl ows\neng es\nĠN orn\nĠbul bs\nĠbott led\nĠVoy ager\n3 17\nĠsp heres\np olitics\nĠsubt ract\nĠsens ations\nĠapp alling\nĠ3 16\nĠenvironment ally\nĠST EM\nĠpub lishes\n5 60\nĠdilig ence\n48 4\nĠadv ises\nĠpet rol\nĠimag ining\nĠpatrol s\nĠInt eger\nĠAs hes\nact us\nĠRad iant\nĠL T\nit ability\nht aking\nSet ting\nĠnu anced\nĠRe ef\nĠDevelop ers\nN i\npie ces\n99 0\nLic ense\nĠlow ers\nĠOtt oman\n3 27\noo o\nĠqu itting\nmark ets\nBeh ind\nĠbas in\nĠdoc s\nan ie\nfl ash\nct l\nĠcivil ized\nĠFuk ushima\n\"] ,\"\nĠK S\nĠHonest ly\nar at\nĠconstruct s\nĠL ans\nĠD ire\nĠLI KE\nĠTrou ble\nĠwith holding\nĠOb livion\nĠsan ity\nany a\nCon st\nĠgro cer\nĠC elsius\nĠrecount ed\nĠW ife\nB order\nate red\nh appy\nĠspo iler\nĠlog ically\nH all\nĠsucceed ing\nĠpoly morph\nĠax es\nĠShot gun\nĠS lim\nĠPrin ciples\nĠL eth\nart a\nĠsc or\nSc reenshot\nĠrelax ation\n#$ #$\nĠdeter rent\nidd y\nĠpower less\nĠles bians\nĠch ords\nĠEd ited\nse lected\nĠseparat ists\n000 2\nĠair space\nĠturn around\nĠc unning\nP ATH\nP oly\nĠbomb ed\nĠt ion\nx s\nĠwith hold\nĠw aged\nĠLiber ties\nFl ag\nĠcomfort ing\n45 4\nĠI ris\nare rs\nĠr ag\nĠrel ocated\nĠGu arant\nĠstrateg ically\nĠgam ma\nuber ty\nĠLock heed\ng res\nĠgr illed\nĠLow e\nst ats\nĠR ocks\nĠsens ing\nĠrent ing\nĠGe ological\nا Ø\not rop\nĠse w\nĠimproper ly\n48 6\nĠâĸ ł\nĠstar ving\nĠB j\nDisc ussion\n3 28\nĠCom bo\nĠFix es\nN AT\nĠstri ving\nth ora\nĠharvest ed\nĠP ing\nĠplay ful\nĠaven ues\nĠoccup ational\nĠw akes\nĠCou rier\nĠdrum mer\nĠBrow ser\nĠH outh\nit u\nĠapp arel\np aste\nĠhun ted\nĠSecond ly\nl ain\nX Y\nĠP IN\nic ons\nĠcock tails\nĠs izable\nĠhurd les\nest inal\nĠRecre ation\nĠe co\n64 8\nĠD ied\nm int\nĠfinger prints\nĠdis pose\nĠBos nia\nts y\n22 00\nĠins pected\nĠF ou\nĠf uss\nĠamb ush\nĠR ak\nĠmanif ested\nPro secut\nĠsuff ice\nren ces\nĠcompens ated\nĠC yrus\nĠgen us\nĠWolver ine\nĠTrend s\nĠh ikes\nĠSe en\nĠen rol\nC old\nĠpol itely\nĠSl av\nĠRu pert\nĠey ewitness\nĠAl to\nĠun comp\nĠposter ior\nM ust\nĠHer z\nĠprogress ively\nĠ23 4\nĠind ifference\nĠCunning ham\nĠacadem ia\nĠse wer\nĠast ounding\nĠA ES\nr ather\nĠeld est\nĠclim bs\nĠAdd s\nĠout cry\nĠcont ag\nĠH ouses\nĠpe pt\nĠMel ania\ninterest ed\nĠU CH\nĠR oots\nĠHub bard\nĠT BD\nĠRoman ian\nfil ename\nSt one\nĠIm pl\nĠchromos ome\nC le\nd x\nĠscram bled\nĠP t\nĠ24 2\nOP LE\nĠtremend ously\nSt reet\nĠcra ving\nĠbund led\nĠR G\np ipe\nĠinj uring\nĠarc ane\nPart icip\nĠHero ic\nst y\nĠto pping\nĠTemp est\nrent ices\nb h\nĠpar anoia\nĠUnic ode\nĠegreg ious\nĠ\\ '\nĠOsw ald\nĠgra vel\nĠSim psons\nĠbl and\nĠGuant anamo\nWrit er\nlin ers\nĠD ice\nJ C\nĠpar ity\nĠs ided\nĠ23 7\nĠPyr rha\nat ters\nd k\nF ine\ncomp an\nĠform ulated\nĠId ol\nil ers\nhem oth\nĠF av\nĠintr usion\nĠcar rots\nĠL ayer\nĠH acker\nĠ ----------------\nĠmoder ation\né ģ\noc oc\nĠcharacter ize\nĠTe resa\nĠsocio economic\nĠper k\nĠParticip ation\ntr aining\nĠPaul o\nph ys\nĠtrust worthy\nĠembod ied\nĠMer ch\nc urrency\nĠPrior ity\nĠte asing\nĠabsor bing\nĠunf inished\nĠCompar ison\nĠdis ple\nwrit ers\nĠprofess ions\nĠPengu in\nĠang rily\nĠL INK\n68 8\nĠCor respond\nĠprev ailed\nĠcart el\nl p\nas ms\nĠRed emption\nĠIslam ists\neffect s\nd ose\nĠL atter\nĠHal ifax\nĠv as\nĠTop ics\nĠN amed\nadvert ising\nzz a\nIC ES\nĠret arded\nach able\nĠPupp et\nĠItem Level\nĠret ract\nĠident ifiable\nA aron\nĠB uster\ns ol\nhel le\nas semb\nH ope\nr anged\nB a\nĠP urch\né Ģ\nĠSir i\nĠarri vals\nĠ19 12\nĠshort ened\nĠ3 12\nĠdiscrep ancy\nĠTem perature\nĠWal ton\nĠkind erg\np olit\nĠrem ix\nĠconnect ors\nãĥĺ ãĥ©\nĠKazakh stan\ndom inated\nĠsu gars\nim 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oder\nĠpar amed\nĠMed line\n80 9\nĠD inner\nrup al\ng z\nĠG um\nĠDem o\nj ee\nĠd h\nber man\narch s\nĠen qu\nĠEp stein\nĠdevast ation\nĠfriends hips\nĠAr d\nĠ23 1\nĠRub in\nĠDist ance\nĠsp urred\nĠd ossier\nĠover looking\n\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\nFore st\nĠCom es\n\\ \",\nĠIran ians\nĠf ixtures\nL aughs\nĠcur ry\nĠKing ston\nĠsqu ash\nĠcat alogue\nĠabnormal ities\nĠdigest ive\n.... .....\nĠsubord inate\nog ly\nĠ24 9\nM iddle\nĠmass ac\nĠburg ers\nĠdown stairs\nĠ19 31\n39 4\nĠV G\nĠl asers\nĠS ikh\nĠAlex a\nder ived\nĠcycl ist\nãģ® éŃĶ\nonel iness\n!!!! !!!!\nĠbuff s\nleg ate\nĠrap ing\nĠrecomm ending\nro red\nĠmult icultural\nun ique\nĠbusiness men\nĠune asy\nĠM AP\nĠdisp ersed\ncipl ine\nJ ess\nĠK erala\nå §\nĠabst raction\nSur v\nU h\nĠprin ters\nij a\now der\nĠanalog ous\nĠA SP\naf er\nĠunfold ed\nĠlevel ing\nĠbre ached\nĠH earing\nĠn at\nĠtransl ating\ncrit ical\nĠant agonist\nĠYes terday\nĠfuzz y\nw ash\nm ere\nĠbe wild\nĠM ae\nV irgin\nph rase\nĠsign aled\nĠH IGH\nĠprot 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s\nĠsupplement al\nĠpower house\nĠSt ru\nF ocus\naph ael\nĠCol leg\natt i\nZ A\nĠp erenn\nĠSign ature\nĠRod ney\nĠcub es\nidd led\nĠD ante\nĠIN V\niling ual\nĠC th\nĠso fa\nĠintimid ate\nĠR oe\nĠDi plom\nĠCount ries\nays on\nĠextrad ition\nĠdis abling\nĠCard iff\nĠmemor andum\nĠTr ace\nĠ?? ?\nse ctor\nĠRou hani\nĠY ates\nĠFree ze\nĠbl adder\nM otor\nĠProm ise\nant asy\nĠforesee able\nĠC ologne\ncont ainer\nĠTre es\nĠG ors\nĠSin clair\nĠbar ring\nkey e\nĠsl ashed\nĠStat istical\né ĩ\nĠâĸ º\nAll ows\nĠhum ility\nĠdr illed\nĠF urn\n44 3\nĠse wage\nĠhome page\nĠcour tyard\nĠv ile\nĠsubsid iaries\naj o\ndirect ory\nĠam mon\nV ers\ncharg es\nĠ} }\nĠCh ains\nĠ24 6\nn ob\nĠper cept\nĠg rit\nĠfisher men\nĠIraq is\nĠDIS TR\nĠF ULL\nĠEval uation\ng raph\nat ial\nĠcooper ating\nĠmel an\nĠenlight ened\nĠal i\nt ailed\nĠsal ute\nĠweak est\nĠBull dogs\nU A\nĠAll oy\nĠsem en\noc ene\nĠWilliam son\ns pr\n, âĢĶ\nĠG F\nitt ens\nBe at\nĠJ unk\niph ate\nĠFarm ers\nĠBit coins\nig ers\nd h\nĠL oyal\np 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ton\nĠcomprom ising\nĠBrew ers\nR AL\nĠA HL\nicy cle\nĠv ampires\nĠdi pped\noy er\nĠX III\nĠsidew ays\nĠW aste\nĠD iss\nĠâĶľ âĶĢâĶĢ\n$ .\nĠhabit ats\nĠBe ef\ntr uth\ntr ained\nspl it\nR us\nAnd y\nĠB ram\nRE P\np id\nè£ ħ\nĠMut ant\nAn im\nĠMar ina\nĠfut ile\nhig hest\nf requency\nĠepile psy\nĠcop ing\nĠconc ise\nĠtr acing\nĠS UN\npan el\nĠSoph ie\nĠCrow ley\nĠAd olf\nĠShoot er\nĠsh aky\nĠI G\nĠL ies\nĠBar ber\np kg\nĠupt ake\nĠpred atory\nUL TS\n/ **\nĠintox icated\nĠWest brook\nod der\nhe ment\nĠbas eman\nAP D\nst orage\nĠFif ty\ned itor\nG EN\nUT ION\nir ting\nĠse wing\nr ift\nĠag ony\nĠS ands\nĠ25 4\nC ash\nĠl odge\nĠp unt\nN atural\nĠIde as\nĠerrone ous\nĠSens or\nĠHann ity\nĠ19 21\nĠm ould\nĠG on\nkay a\nĠanonym ously\nĠK EY\nĠsim ulator\nW inter\nĠstream ed\n50 7\n? \",\nĠte ased\nĠco efficient\nĠwart ime\nĠTH R\n' '.\nĠBank ing\nmp ire\nĠf andom\nĠl ia\nG a\nĠdown hill\nĠinterpre ting\nInd ividual\nN orm\nĠjealous y\nbit coin\nĠple asures\nĠToy s\nĠChev rolet\nĠAd visor\nIZ E\nĠrecept ions\n70 6\nC ro\nĠ26 2\nĠcit rus\nir u\nReview er\nject ed\nU ES\nan z\n19 81\nĠWork er\nĠcompl ied\nores cent\ncontin ental\nT on\nĠPr ism\nĠShe ep\nĠ28 8\nn ox\nĠV og\nO rd\nĠreal ms\nte k\nĠirrig ation\nĠbicy cles\nĠelectron ically\np oly\nt all\n() );\nĠaest hetics\nĠInteg rated\nExpl ore\nĠd unk\n47 6\np ain\nĠJac ques\nĠD mit\nFram es\nĠreun ited\nĠhum id\nD ro\nP olitical\nĠyouth ful\nĠent ails\nĠmosqu ito\n36 3\nspe cies\nĠcoord inating\nĠMay hem\nĠMagn us\nM ount\nImpro ved\nĠST ATE\nATT LE\nĠflow ed\nĠtack led\nĠfashion ed\nĠre organ\niv ari\nf inger\nĠreluct antly\net ting\nĠV and\nyou ng\nĠGar land\nĠpresum ption\nĠamen ities\nĠPle asant\non ential\nĠO xy\nĠmor als\nĠY ah\nRead y\nSim on\nEn h\nD emon\nĠcl ich\nMon itor\nĠD U\nĠwel comes\nĠstand out\nĠdread ful\nĠban anas\nĠball oons\nh ooting\nbas ic\nĠsuff ix\nĠd uly\ncan o\nCh ain\nat os\nĠgeop olitical\nĠ( &\nĠGem ini\nÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤÃĥÃĤ 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fast\nĠathlet ics\nĠHans on\nĠDr ac\nTr acker\nĠcomm end\nĠPres idency\nĠD ID\nin formed\nĠweb page\nP retty\nĠforce fully\nãĥĥ ãĤ¯\nĠrel ocation\nĠsat ire\nâ ī\nĠSunder land\næ Ħ\nV oice\n???? ????\nĠinform ant\nĠbow el\nĠUn iform\nĠ ...\"\nĠpur ge\nĠpic nic\nĠU mb\nĠU PDATE\nĠSapp hire\nĠSt all\nle arn\nĠobject ively\nĠob liter\nĠlooph ole\nĠjour neys\nĠo mission\nPro s\nĠSid ney\npl oma\nĠspray ed\nĠg uru\nĠtra itor\nĠtim et\nĠsn apping\nĠSe vent\nurn al\nĠUk ip\nĠb owed\npor al\nl iberal\nR os\nQuest ions\ni OS\nĠsummar ize\nST AT\nĠ18 50\nap est\nĠl ender\nĠVari able\nbr inging\nĠL ORD\n, )\nĠcollaps es\nx iety\nĠN ed\nY D\nĠSch a\nĠantib ody\nĠdis band\ny re\nill usion\nĠro ver\ns hed\nĠHiro sh\ncc i\nĠcal am\nĠMort on\nP interest\nĠ19 28\nĠE uras\nord es\nĠf ences\nĠIn ventory\nĠVal encia\nĠU d\nĠT iff\nĠsqu e\nĠqu otation\nĠtroubles ome\ner ker\nQU EST\nĠKing doms\ns outh\nĠle vy\nPr ince\nĠSt ing\nĠnick named\nĠapp e\nĠphot ographic\nĠcorp us\nre ference\nĠT rog\nU nt\n) =(\nĠLat via\nĠactiv ating\nĠlicense e\nĠdispar ities\nĠNews letter\nãĥĥ ãĥĪ\nĠfree ing\nĠJe ep\nĠPer ception\nins k\nĠsil icone\nĠHay den\nLe an\nĠSuz uki\nibr arian\n66 8\nĠsp or\nĠcorrel ations\nag hetti\nĠtu ber\nĠIP CC\nil us\nĠV u\nĠwealth iest\nĠCarb uncle\nan za\nĠfool ed\nĠZ ur\nĠd addy\nran o\nil ian\nĠknock out\nf man\nrequ ired\nĠWik ileaks\nĠD uffy\nON T\nĠins ol\nĠObject s\nĠb ou\nĠNord ic\nĠIns ert\nsc an\nĠd ancers\nĠid iots\nmajor ity\nĠNev ille\nĠFree BSD\nĠt art\npan ic\n69 0\nĠcoc oa\nĠsam pled\nĠlook up\nInd ust\nĠinject ions\ngen re\nĠa u\nĠroad way\nĠgen itals\nK ind\nĠEx aminer\nĠY az\nF resh\nĠpar alysis\nĠAl uminum\nĠre ap\nok é\nĠsl oppy\nĠTun nel\npos ium\nner y\nen ic\nĠher bal\nĠOut er\nĠBuild er\nĠinc ur\nĠide ologies\nĠback ups\ncons uming\nĠDet ect\nde ck\nĠKN OW\nĠG ret\nĠM IC\nĠtough ness\nĠEx hibit\nĠh ive\nL es\nĠSCH OOL\nĠAt ari\nald e\nĠN ull\nand estine\nm ouse\nĠbrig ade\n48 9\nĠrev ol\nĠLaw son\nĠW ah\nop oly\neb ted\nĠS aunders\nĠ3 13\nĠW 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ly\nĠMaver icks\nMarg inal\nĠdiarr hea\nĠenorm ously\nĠ9 99\nsh r\nqu art\nĠadam ant\nĠM ew\nĠren ovation\nĠcerv ical\nĠPercent age\nen ers\nĠKim ber\nĠflo ats\nĠde x\nĠW itcher\nĠSwan sea\nd m\nĠsal ty\ny ellow\nĠca pe\nĠDr ain\nĠPaul a\nĠTol edo\nles i\nMag azine\nĠW ick\nĠM n\nĠA ck\nĠR iding\nAS ON\nĠhom ophobic\nAR P\nĠwand ered\nC PU\nood oo\nĠP ipe\nĠtight ening\nĠBut t\n3 18\nĠdesert ed\nS ession\nĠfacilit ating\nJ ump\nĠemer gencies\nOW ER\nĠexhaust ive\nĠAF TER\nĠheart beat\nĠLab el\nack y\nĠCert ified\nilt ration\nZ e\nĠU tt\nĠ13 00\nĠpres ume\nĠDis p\nĠsur ged\nĠdoll s\nCol umb\nĠchim pan\nĠR azor\nĠt icks\nĠcouncill or\nĠpilgr image\nĠReb els\nĠQ C\nĠA uction\nx ia\nik k\nb red\nĠinsert ion\nĠco arse\nd B\nSE E\nĠZ ap\nĠF oo\nĠcontem por\nĠQuarter ly\not ions\nĠAl chemist\nĠT rey\nĠDu o\nS weet\n80 4\nĠGi ov\nĠfun n\nN in\nh off\nĠram ifications\nĠ19 22\nĠExper ts\naz es\nĠgar ments\nar ial\nĠN ab\nĠ25 7\nĠV ed\nĠhum orous\nĠPom pe\nĠn ylon\nĠlur king\nĠSerge y\nĠMatt 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I\nĠlong itudinal\nĠnu isance\nal er\nĠsw ell\nĠS igned\ns ci\nĠIs les\nĠA GA\nĠdef iant\nĠson ic\noc on\nK C\nĠA im\nt ie\nah ah\nĠm L\nD X\nĠb isc\nĠBill board\nĠSY STEM\nNE Y\nga ard\nĠdist ressed\nformer ly\nAl an\nĠche fs\nĠopt ics\nĠC omet\nĠAM C\nĠredes igned\nirm ation\nĠsight ings\n38 2\n3 11\nĠW B\nĠcont raction\nĠT OTAL\nD ual\nĠstart led\nĠunderstand ably\nĠsung lasses\nETH OD\nĠd ocker\nĠsurf ing\nĠH EL\nĠSl ack\nton es\nĠsh alt\nVis ual\n49 8\nDep artment\nc ussion\nĠunrest ricted\nĠt ad\nĠre name\nemploy ed\nĠeduc ating\nĠgrin ned\nbed room\nĠActiv ities\nĠV elvet\nĠSW AT\nĠsh uffle\nig or\nĠsatur ation\nF inding\nc ream\nic ter\nĠv odka\ntr acking\nte c\nĠfore ground\niest a\nĠve hement\nĠEC B\nĠT ie\nE y\nĠt urtles\nĠRail road\nĠKat z\nĠFram es\nĠmen ace\nĠFell owship\nĠEss ential\nugg ish\nĠdri p\nch witz\nĠKy oto\ns b\nĠN ina\nParam eter\nĠal arms\nĠCl aud\nĠpione ering\nĠchief ly\nĠSc ream\nCol lection\nĠthank fully\nĠRonald o\nåŃ IJ\nst rip\nĠDisney land\ncom mercial\nSee ing\nS oul\nĠevac uate\nĠc iv\nĠAs he\nĠdiv ides\nĠD agger\nrehens ive\nĠber ries\nĠD F\nĠs ushi\nĠplur ality\nW I\nĠdisadvant aged\nĠbatt alion\nob iles\n45 1\nĠcl ing\nĠunden iable\nĠL ounge\nĠha unt\np he\nĠquant ify\nĠdiff ered\nĠ[* ]\nĠV iz\nc um\nsl ave\nĠvide og\nĠqu ar\nĠbund les\nĠAl onso\nt ackle\nĠneur onal\nĠlandsl ide\nconf irmed\nĠDep th\nĠrenew ables\nB ear\nĠMaced onia\nĠjer seys\nĠb unk\nĠSp awn\nĠControl s\nĠBuch anan\nĠrobot ics\nĠemphas izing\nĠTut orial\nh yp\nist on\nĠmonument al\næ °\nĠCar ry\nĠt bsp\nen ance\nH ill\nart hed\nĠro tten\nDe an\nĠtw isting\nĠgood will\nĠimm ersion\nL iving\nĠbr ushes\nĠC GI\nĠAt k\ntr aditional\nĠph antom\nĠSt amina\nĠexpans ions\nĠMar in\nĠembark ed\nĠE g\nint estinal\nĠPE OPLE\nĠBo oth\nĠApp alach\nĠreleg ated\nV T\nM IT\nĠmust er\nĠwithdraw ing\nĠmicrosc ope\nĠG athering\nĠC rescent\nĠArgent ine\nĠDec re\nĠDomin ic\nĠbud s\nant age\nĠI on\nĠwid ened\nONS ORED\nĠGl oves\niann opoulos\nraz en\nfe el\nĠrepay ment\nĠhind sight\nĠRE ALLY\nĠPist ol\nĠBra h\nĠwat ts\nĠsurv ives\nĠfl urry\niss y\nAl ert\nĠUrug uay\nPh oenix\nS low\nĠG rave\nĠF ir\nĠmanage able\nĠtar iff\nĠU DP\nĠPist ons\nĠNiger ian\nĠstrike outs\nĠcos metics\nwhel ming\nf ab\nc ape\npro xy\nĠre think\nĠover coming\nsim ple\nĠw oo\nĠdistract ing\nĠSt anton\nĠTuls a\nĠD ock\n65 9\nĠdisc ord\nĠEm acs\nĠV es\nĠR OB\nĠreass uring\nĠcons ortium\nMuslim s\n3 21\nĠprompt s\nse i\nĠH itch\nimp osed\nĠF ool\nĠindisc rim\nwr ong\nbu querque\nD avis\n! ]\nĠtim eless\nĠNE ED\nĠpestic ide\nĠrally ing\nĠCal der\nĠå ¤\nĠx p\nĠUn le\nĠEx port\nlu aj\nB uff\n) </\nB oot\nĠChrys ler\nor ative\nM ess\nĠneglig ible\nert odd\nĠMush room\nĠG ale\ng c\nĠCos by\nĠR ural\nrit ical\nB ell\nĠturb ine\n00 200000\nĠlegit imately\nĠAnim ated\nT ED\nĠThe odore\nc onduct\nĠH ier\nĠcounterfe it\nĠAlger ia\nĠun beat\ncont roller\nĠun res\nĠscram bling\nĠFall on\nT es\nĠam ber\nĠroy alties\nĠShel ter\nĠL ester\nĠclass ify\nRem ote\nĠun heard\nĠcontrovers ies\nĠenrich 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ard\nĠche wing\nu cl\norgan ic\nĠlocal ized\nĠEconom ist\nĠacqu ainted\nDef inition\ns ed\nCrit ics\nĠc c\n45 3\n38 1\nĠfell ows\nĠcheck points\n0 25\nĠre election\nĠmed iated\nĠK DE\nĠhurd le\nĠtext ing\nPer fect\nĠtrust ees\nfect ure\nĠd ich\nmon ary\nĠdist inctions\nĠ14 00\nĠus her\nĠparas ites\nĠSh aring\nĠV im\nĠbar becue\nĠMin isters\nere lla\nĠe b\nĠm c\nĠSome how\nĠIn sect\nch anges\nb road\nĠBy z\nĠgrap es\n66 9\nĠ= ================\nĠass imil\nĠhaun ting\nĠfire power\nĠdef amation\nem phasis\nĠcomp ose\nĠallerg ies\nĠstr ang\nroll ers\nb ang\nĠbrew ers\nron gh\nri ot\np oor\nc old\nS ample\nĠbu oy\n0 40\nĠCourt ney\nĠ26 8\nĠWed ding\n70 2\nĠobsess ive\nĠbra king\nĠL al\nan ical\nå ¦\nat en\nCon struction\nĠclin ically\niers hip\nN ames\nĠDisc uss\nĠRam os\nĠloc ale\nĠAgric ultural\nEn able\nĠhorse power\nent ure\nP ref\nC ourt\nĠstaff ing\nĠfut uristic\ndri vers\nĠMarket place\næĪ ¦\nFriend s\nĠdam ning\nĠCustom ers\nĠwe eds\nĠM ai\nĠag ile\nĠT att\nic ent\nR anked\ncro ft\nĠKat y\nExt reme\nĠcar ve\nĠR over\nĠBy ron\n37 2\nĠconduct s\nr atch\nit ia\nĠPump kin\nSad ly\nRel oaded\nP olicy\nĠl ick\npe ak\nis ks\nĠCD s\nĠEn cyclopedia\nin itial\nC os\nĠAware ness\nĠD ram\n$$ $$\nĠr iff\nĠscript ure\nrun ners\nĠbo iler\nons on\no in\nĠham string\nĠcat aly\nĠArch bishop\nch all\nĠf aux\nok in\nlocal host\nĠN AME\nad obe\nS AN\nam ate\nĠscram ble\nĠcar c\nĠMan ifest\nĠCed ar\nĠSer gio\nl ater\nff er\nĠgrapp ling\nĠDe utsche\nagon ists\nĠNew sp\nĠpret ended\narch ment\nĠcur ated\nĠhead phone\nĠUn common\nĠS IGN\nA gent\nĠdead lines\nĠhorizont ally\nĠM AT\nĠSum mers\nĠord ained\nĠLast ly\nĠKend all\nĠfr ig\nĠMach ina\nĠWater loo\nĠMex icans\nĠprotect or\nĠgl are\n} \"\nPrem ium\nĠr ift\nĠTelesc ope\nMet al\nĠrec apt\nĠ; ;\nĠincl ination\nĠimp oses\ning en\n^ {\nĠh aste\nĠd olphins\nĠcomm uters\npl anned\nc ong\nm x\nĠU pload\nĠext rap\nĠTuc son\nĠExpl oration\nefe ated\nĠsl ender\n70 3\nĠB uk\nis el\nĠcompet itiveness\nch lor\nĠP ermanent\nĠE verett\nĠSpecial 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NG\nĠBows er\nĠatt m\nD ur\n80 7\nĠsid x\nĠc ider\nĠA ffect\nĠw oven\nĠBark er\nben ef\nĠdst g\nĠRy u\n> [\nĠsq or\nS audi\nĠis tg\nĠindul ge\npro c\nĠdisg usted\nĠcomp ounded\nĠn em\nĠschool ing\nĠC ure\nprocess ing\nS ol\nĠpro verb\nit ized\nĠAlv arez\nĠscar f\nĠrect angular\nre ve\nĠh ormonal\nĠSt ress\nitiz en\nĠ4 25\ngirl s\nĠNo ir\nĠR app\nĠmar ches\nch urch\nĠUs es\nĠ40 5\nĠBer m\nĠord inances\nĠJud gment\nCharg es\nĠZ in\nĠdust y\nĠstraw berries\nĠper ce\nĠTh ur\nĠDebor ah\nnet flix\nĠLam bert\nĠam used\nĠGu ang\nY OU\nR GB\nĠC CTV\nĠf iat\nr ang\nĠf ederation\nĠM ant\nĠB ust\nĠM are\nrespect ive\nĠM igration\nĠB IT\n59 0\nĠpatriot ism\nĠout lining\nreg ion\nĠJos é\nĠbl asting\nĠEz ra\nB s\nĠundermin es\nĠSm ooth\nĠcl ashed\nrad io\nĠtransition ing\nĠBucc aneers\nĠOw l\nĠplug s\nĠh iatus\nĠPin ball\nĠm ig\nĠNut r\nĠWolf e\nĠinteg ers\nĠor bits\nĠEd win\nĠDirect X\nb ite\nĠbl azing\nv r\nEd ge\nĠP ID\nex it\nĠCom ed\nĠPath finder\nĠGu id\nĠSign s\nĠZ er\nĠAg enda\nĠreimburse ment\nM esh\ni Phone\nĠMar cos\nĠS ites\nh ate\nen burg\nĠs ockets\np end\nBat man\nv ir\nĠSH OW\nĠprovision al\ncon n\nĠDeath s\nAT IVE\nPro file\nsy m\nJ A\nĠnin ja\ninst alled\nid ates\neb ra\nĠOm aha\nĠse izing\nĠBe asts\nĠsal ts\nM ission\nGener ally\nĠTr ilogy\nhe on\nleg ates\nĠd ime\nĠf aire\npar able\nG raph\nĠtotal ing\nĠdiagram s\nĠYan uk\nple t\nĠMe h\nĠmyth ical\nĠStep hens\naut ical\nochem istry\nĠkil ograms\nĠel bows\nanc ock\nĠB CE\nĠPr ague\nĠimpro v\nĠDev in\nĠ\" \\\npar alle\nĠsuprem acists\nĠB illion\nĠreg imen\ninn acle\nĠrequ isite\nang an\nĠBur lington\nain ment\nĠObject ive\noms ky\nG V\nĠun ilateral\nĠt c\nĠh ires\nment al\nĠinvol untary\nĠtrans pl\nĠASC II\n ¨\nEv ents\nĠdoub ted\nĠKa plan\nĠCour age\nig on\nĠMan aging\nĠT art\nĠfalse hood\nĠV iolet\nĠair s\nĠfertil izer\nBrit ain\nĠaqu atic\nou f\nW ords\nĠHart ford\nĠeven ings\nĠV engeance\nqu ite\nG all\nĠP ret\nĠp df\nĠL M\nĠSo chi\nĠInter cept\n9 20\nĠprofit ability\nĠId le\nĠMac Donald\nĠEst ablishment\num sy\nĠgather ings\nĠN aj\nCharl ie\nĠas cent\nĠProt ector\nĠal gebra\nĠbi os\nfor ums\nEL S\nIntrodu ced\nĠ3 35\nĠastron omy\nCont ribut\nĠPol ic\nPl atform\nĠcontain ment\nw rap\nĠcoron ary\nĠJ elly\nman ager\nĠheart breaking\nc air\nĠChe ro\nc gi\nMed ical\nĠAccount ability\n! !\"\noph ile\nĠpsych otic\nĠRest rict\nĠequ itable\niss ues\nĠ19 05\nĠN ek\nc ised\nĠTr acking\nĠo zone\nĠcook er\nros is\nĠre open\nĠinf inity\nĠPharm aceutical\nens ional\nAtt empt\nĠR ory\nMar co\nĠawa its\nH OW\nt reated\nĠbol st\nĠreve red\nĠp ods\nopp ers\n00 10\nĠampl itude\nric an\nSP ONSORED\nĠtrou sers\nĠhal ves\nĠK aine\nĠCut ler\nĠA UTH\nĠsplend id\nĠprevent ive\nĠDud ley\nif acts\numin ati\nĠY in\nĠad mon\nĠV ag\nĠin verted\nĠhast ily\nĠH ague\nL yn\nĠled ger\nĠastron omical\nget ting\nĠcirc a\nĠC ic\nĠTenn is\nLim ited\nĠd ru\nĠBY U\nĠtrave llers\nĠp ane\nĠInt ro\nĠpatient ly\nĠa iding\nĠlo os\nĠT ough\nĠ29 3\nĠconsum es\nSource File\nĠ\"\" \"\nĠbond ing\nĠtil ted\nĠmenstru al\nĠCel estial\nUL AR\nPlug in\nĠrisk ing\nN az\nĠRiy adh\nĠacc redited\nĠsk irm\né Ľ\nĠexam iner\nĠmess ing\nĠnear ing\nĠC hern\nĠBeck ham\nĠsw apped\nĠgo ose\nK ay\nĠlo fty\nĠWal let\nĠ[ '\nĠap ocalypse\nĠb amboo\nĠSP ACE\nĠEl ena\nĠ30 6\nac ons\nĠtight ened\nĠadolesc ence\nĠrain y\nĠvandal ism\nĠNew town\nĠcon ject\nc akes\nĠche ated\nĠmoder ators\npar ams\nE FF\nĠdece it\nĠST L\nĠTanz ania\nĠR I\nĠ19 23\nĠEx ile\nthe l\nĠthe olog\nĠquir ky\nĠIr vine\nĠneed y\nor is\nU m\nK a\nĠmail box\n3 22\nĠb os\nĠPet ra\nK ING\nĠenlarg ed\nO ften\nĠbad ass\nĠ3 43\nĠPl aces\nĠC AD\nĠpr istine\nĠinterven ing\nd irection\nĠl az\nĠD SM\nĠproject ing\nĠF unk\nag og\npay ment\nn ov\nĠch atter\nAR B\nĠexam inations\nĠHouse hold\nĠG us\nF ord\n4 14\nB oss\nĠmy stic\nĠle aps\nĠB av\nul z\nb udget\nFoot ball\nĠsubsid ized\nĠfirst hand\nĠcoinc ide\noc ular\nCon n\nĠColl abor\nĠfool s\nam ura\nah ar\nr ists\nĠsw ollen\nĠexp ended\nĠP au\ns up\nĠsp ar\nĠkey note\ns uff\nĠunequ al\nĠprogress ing\nstr ings\nĠGamer 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al\nĠG G\nf uture\nĠpet ertodd\nĠKos ovo\nĠmagn ets\nAl ready\nĠEd ison\nĠCe res\nĠRA ID\nĠbrill iance\n57 6\nĠder ives\nĠhypert ension\nĠÎ Ķ\nĠlamb da\nĠfl air\nĠmission aries\nĠrap es\nĠSt arter\nĠMon ths\nĠdef y\nĠseism ic\nĠR aphael\nĠeuro zone\n65 6\nz sche\nĠscr atched\nĠb ows\nĠLenn on\nĠGa ia\nĠdri pping\nf acts\nA le\nĠfrog s\nĠBre ast\nogene ity\nĠProsecut or\nĠampl ified\nĠHod g\nĠF n\nTh ousands\nĠNI H\nĠMonitor ing\nFT WARE\nĠPri ebus\nĠG rowing\nhun ter\nĠdiagn ose\nĠM ald\nĠL R\nĠcrown ed\nĠburst ing\nĠdiss olution\nj avascript\nĠuseful ness\nĠExec ution\n: (\nĠIv ory\na ah\nĠpersecut ed\nviol ence\nist as\nĠCr ate\nĠimpuls es\nĠSp ani\ned es\nHand le\nĠZ erg\nthink able\nLast ly\nĠspont aneously\nĠinconven ient\nĠdismiss ing\nĠpl otted\nĠeight y\nĠ7 37\nr ish\nĠThor nton\nath am\nĠsit com\nV en\nRec ipe\nt el\nl und\nĠcle ars\nĠSas uke\nĠ25 8\nĠopt ing\nĠen raged\nest hetic\nĠA e\nuch s\nPre p\nFl ow\nĠrun off\nĠE ating\nĠG iles\nĠAct ing\nres ources\nib aba\nĠr pm\nĠske wed\nĠBl anc\nĠS akuya\nĠhot ter\nĠ19 24\nop ian\nck o\nĠcr umbling\nĠcapt ains\nĠAppropri ations\nle aders\ndro pping\nan uts\nĠrevers ing\nĠP ose\nĠS ek\nSc ot\nĠIde a\nc ise\nĠSloven ia\nĠ3 17\nDo ctor\nĠcro cod\nald i\nSe a\nĠFar rell\nĠmerc enaries\nĠR NC\nĠGu ess\nĠp acing\nM achine\nStreamer Bot\nĠChar ity\nĠ29 8\nĠcann ons\nĠTob y\nTPP StreamerBot\nĠPass ion\ncf g\nTh om\nĠbad ges\nĠBern stein\n. âĢĵ\nĠP OP\nĠCon j\nĠinitial ization\nĠbiod iversity\nD ub\nĠfeud al\nĠdisclaim er\nĠc row\nĠign ition\nar f\nS HA\nĠk Hz\nh azard\nĠArt ists\noe uv\n67 9\nĠRud y\nN ine\nĠRam adan\nå ½\nitt o\nĠadren aline\nC ert\nĠsmell ed\nĠimp unity\nĠag endas\nĠRe born\nĠCon cent\nĠSe ems\nĠo mega\nĠDust in\nĠback er\nĠSau ce\nĠBoy le\nW IN\nĠsp ins\nĠpa uses\nu pt\nĠshred ded\nĠstra pped\nĠCor ruption\nĠscr atches\nĠn i\nĠatt ire\nĠS AF\nFactory Reloaded\nĠI PS\nĠ( %\nĠsem inar\nf ocus\nc ivil\nĠ18 60\nint osh\nĠcontin ual\nĠabbre vi\nĠS ok\noc obo\nX M\nĠfr antic\nĠunavoid able\nĠar tery\nĠannot ations\nb ath\nCl imate\nĠd ors\nĠSl ide\nco ord\nĠRel oad\nĠL DL\nĠLove craft\nĠunim agin\nĠresemb led\nĠbarr acks\nn p\nĠsurrog ate\nĠcategor ized\nãĤ ©\nĠvacc inated\nĠdrain age\nĠind ist\nĠWhats App\nĠ18 70\noler ance\ninv oke\nam orph\nĠrecon nect\nĠem anc\nĠblind ness\nĠ12 80\nintern et\nc ollar\nĠalt ru\nĠab yss\nĠT RI\n65 7\nĠinf used\nHE AD\nĠforest ry\nĠWood y\nĠC i\nw i\ns am\n78 4\nhol iday\nĠmog ul\nĠF ees\nĠD EN\nIn ternal\nur bed\nf usc\nat om\nĠIll usion\nĠpoll ed\nĠfl ap\nĠco ax\nL GBT\nAn aly\nĠSect ions\nĠCalif orn\nem n\nĠh ither\nĠN IGHT\nĠn ailed\nĠPip eline\n39 1\no of\nĠPr imal\nvere nd\nĠsl ashing\nĠret ri\navi our\nĠdepart ing\ng il\nIS C\nĠmid way\nĠultras ound\nĠbeh aving\nĠT ara\nclass es\nV irtual\nĠColon ial\nĠstri pping\nĠorchestr ated\nĠGra ves\n45 2\nĠIron ically\nĠWrit ers\nĠl ends\nĠMan z\nĠra ven\nĠoxid ative\nĠ26 6\nEL F\nact ually\nasc ar\nD raft\nĠfavour able\nĠhumili ating\nĠf idelity\nĠH of\nĠX uan\n49 6\nĠlay ered\nat is\n79 0\nĠpay check\nit on\nK ar\nĠVM ware\nĠFar mer\nĠserv ic\ngl omer\nĠsl ump\nĠFab ric\nĠD OC\nest ing\nĠreass ure\nĠph yl\nv olt\nit ory\nR ules\nĠoxid ation\nĠpri zed\nĠmist ress\nĠDj ango\nWAR N\nå ij\nĠenc ode\nĠFeed back\nĠstupid ity\nI an\nĠYugoslav ia\n× ¨\nac l\nUT E\n19 77\nĠqual ifies\nĠpuls es\npret ty\nĠfro ze\nĠs s\nIter ator\nĠur gently\nĠm ailed\nĠCh am\nĠsust aining\nĠbas il\nĠpupp ies\nil ant\nĠP LEASE\nl ap\nace ous\nF ear\nĠMaster y\naut omatic\nĠT AG\nĠant im\nag les\n47 3\nfram es\nĠwh ispers\nĠWho ever\nĠbra very\nĠUK IP\nract ions\n\"\" \"\nĠt ame\nĠpart ed\nevery thing\nCON T\nĠind ebted\nĠadd r\nre k\nIR ED\nĠem inent\ncl inton\nĠo usted\nĠreview er\nĠmelt down\nĠre arr\nĠY ao\nthe real\naby te\nĠst umbling\nĠbat ches\nĠ25 9\nĠcontrace ptive\nĠprost itute\nens is\nDe cl\nĠSt rikes\nM ilitary\nĠO ath\nv acc\npp ings\n05 2\nĠpart Name\namp ing\nRep orts\nK I\nCH R\nĠsubt ly\nsw ers\nBl ake\nus ual\nĠcontest ants\nĠcart ridges\nĠGRE AT\nĠbl ush\nĠâĢ º\n47 2\nĠreason ed\nãĥ ¤\nparalle led\nĠd yn\nag ate\nĠnight ly\nå Ĩ\n55 6\nĠsem antic\nĠAdv oc\nĠ !!\nĠdisag rees\nĠB W\nV eh\nĠharm ing\nĠembr aces\nĠstri ves\nĠin land\nĠK ard\nĠhe ats\nĠGin ny\nut an\nern aut\nyl ene\nĠE lev\nJ D\nĠh ars\nĠStar r\nĠsk ysc\nĠcollabor ators\nUs ually\nĠrev olutions\nĠSTAT S\nĠdism antle\nĠconfident ly\nĠkin etic\nAl i\nĠpercent ile\nĠextract ing\nill ian\nest ead\nĠphysic ists\nĠMarsh al\nĠfell owship\nĠd ashed\nĠU R\nĠSi oux\nĠComp act\nam ide\nP ython\nĠLe igh\nĠPharm ac\nist rates\nher ical\nĠf ue\nĠE min\nĠ( {\nĠNeighbor hood\nĠdisrupt ing\nĠD up\nĠg land\nĠSe v\nĠMar ian\narg on\nĠD und\nĠ< !--\nĠstr and\nĠstadium s\nz os\nĠpsych osis\nĠR ack\nĠbrilliant ly\nï¸ ı\nĠsubmer ged\nĠInst it\nĠCh ow\nĠc ages\nĠH ats\nĠU rs\nĠdil uted\nus at\nien ne\nĠMembers hip\nĠBur k\nĠ ie\nĠarche type\nD rug\nult on\nĠSp ock\nĠMcK ay\nĠDep end\nF eatured\nS oc\n19 78\nĠB ere\nĠrelent lessly\nĠcripp ling\nĠar thritis\nçĶ Ł\nĠTrop ical\nĠBul g\nĠCher yl\nĠadm irable\nĠsub title\nOver ride\nĠorig inating\nĠC CP\nĠsw ore\nĠSo le\nĠDis orders\n3 29\nĠprocess ion\nĠref urb\nĠimm ersed\nrequ ently\nĠskept ics\nĠcer amic\nm itter\nen stein\nb elt\nĠT IT\nb idden\nĠf ir\nm ist\n> ]\nĠwe ave\nĠParad ox\nĠentr usted\nĠBarcl ays\nĠnovel ist\nog ie\n80 6\nĠnin ety\nĠdisag reements\n@@@@ @@@@\nĠAus chwitz\nc ars\nĠL ET\nt ub\narant ine\nP OS\nĠback story\nĠcheer ful\nĠR ag\nek a\nbi ased\nĠinexper ienced\nak ra\nĠW itt\nt an\nĠrap ist\nĠplate au\nch al\nĠInqu is\nexp ression\nĠc ipher\nĠsh aving\nadd en\nre ly\n( \\\nism a\nĠReg ulatory\nCH AR\nily n\nN VIDIA\nG U\nĠmur m\nla us\nChrist opher\nĠcontract ual\nĠPro xy\nĠJa ime\nĠMethod ist\nĠstew ards\nst a\nper ia\nĠphys iology\nĠbump ed\nĠf ructose\nAustral ian\nĠMet allic\nĠMas querade\nar b\nĠprom ul\nĠdown fall\nĠbut cher\nĠb our\nĠIN FORMATION\nĠB is\npect s\nad ena\nĠcontempl ating\nar oo\ncent ered\nĠPe aks\nUs ed\nĠmod em\nĠg enders\nĠ8 000\n37 1\nĠm aternity\nĠR az\nĠrock ing\nĠhandgun s\nĠD ACA\nAut om\nĠN 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amount\nĠCumm ings\nĠ( <\nĠrecord er\nĠfl ats\nĠ4 16\nwh ose\nFont Size\nĠOr bit\nY R\nĠwr ists\nĠb akery\n) }\nĠB ounty\nĠLanc aster\nĠend ings\nacc ording\nĠSal am\ne asy\n75 5\nĠBur r\nĠBarn ett\nonom ous\nUn ion\nĠpreced ence\nĠScholars hip\nĠU X\nĠroll out\nĠbo on\nal m\nĠCan ter\næ µ\nĠround ing\nĠcl ad\nĠv ap\nĠF eatured\nis ations\nĠ5 40\npol ice\nĠunsett ling\nĠdr ifting\nĠLum ia\nĠObama Care\nĠF avor\nHy per\nĠRoth schild\nĠMil iband\nan aly\nĠJul iet\nH u\nĠrec alling\na head\n69 6\nĠunf avorable\nĠd ances\nO x\nĠleg ality\nĠ40 3\nrom ancer\nĠinqu ire\nĠM oves\n\\ \">\nĠVari ant\nĠMess iah\nĠL CS\nĠBah á\n75 6\nĠeyeb row\nĠ ¥\nĠMc F\nĠFort y\nM as\nĠpan icked\nĠtransform ations\nq q\nĠrev olves\nring e\nĠA i\nax e\nĠon ward\nĠC FR\nĠB are\nlog in\nĠliqu ids\nĠde comp\nsecond ary\nil an\nĠCon vert\nami ya\nĠprosecut ing\nĠâī ¡\nĠYork ers\nĠByr ne\nsl ow\naw ei\nJ ean\nĠ26 9\nĠSky dragon\nĠ é\nĠNicarag ua\nĠHuck abee\nĠHigh ly\nĠamph ib\nĠPast or\nĠL ets\nĠbl urred\nĠvisc eral\nĠC BO\nĠcollabor ated\nz ig\nLeg al\nĠapart heid\nĠbr id\nĠpres et\nĠD ET\nĠAM A\n× Ķ\narch ing\nauc uses\nbuild er\nĠpo etic\nĠem ulator\nĠMole cular\nĠhon oring\nise um\nĠtract or\nĠCl uster\nĠCal m\nared evil\nĠsidew alks\nĠviol in\nĠgeneral ized\nĠAle c\nĠemb argo\nĠfast ball\nĠHT TPS\nĠL ack\nĠCh ill\nri ver\nC hel\nĠSw arm\nĠLev ine\nro ying\nL aunch\nĠkick er\nĠadd itive\nĠDe als\nW idget\ncont aining\nĠescal ate\nĠOP EN\nĠtwe aked\nĠst ash\nĠsp arks\nĠEs sex\nĠE cc\nĠconv ict\nĠblog ging\nI ER\nĠH L\nĠmurd erers\n75 9\nĠH ib\nĠde pl\nĠJ ord\nS ac\nĠdis sect\nĠHow e\nos her\nĠcustom izable\nĠFran z\nĠat ro\nÄ ĩ\nĠ000 4\nĠout post\nR oss\nĠglyph osate\nĠHast ings\nĠBE FORE\nĠsh ove\no pped\nĠSc ala\nĠam ulet\nan ian\nĠexacerb ated\nĠe ater\n47 1\nUM E\nĠpul p\nizont al\nĠZ am\nĠAT I\nimm une\naby tes\nĠunnecess arily\nĠC AT\nĠAx is\nĠvisual ize\nà ī\nĠRad ical\nf m\nDoc uments\nĠFor rest\nĠcontext ual\nĠSy mbol\nĠtent ative\nĠDO ES\nĠGood s\nĠintermitt ent\n} :\nmedi 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er\nR h\nly cer\nĠreinforce ments\nĠJohann es\nĠGall agher\nĠgym n\nS uddenly\nĠext ortion\nk r\ni ator\nT a\nĠhippocamp us\nN PR\nĠComput ing\nĠsquare ly\nĠmod elling\nĠFor ums\nĠL isp\nĠKrish na\nĠ3 24\nĠr ushes\nĠens ued\nĠcre eping\non te\nn ai\nil ater\nĠHorn ets\nĠob livious\nIN ST\n55 9\nĠjeopard y\nĠdistingu ishing\nj ured\nĠbeg s\nsim ilar\nph ot\n5 30\nĠPark way\nĠs inks\nĠHearth stone\nib ur\nĠBat on\nAv oid\nĠd ancer\nĠmag istrate\nary n\nĠdisturb ances\nĠRom ero\nĠpar aph\nĠmis chief\nâĸ ĵ\nĠSh aria\nĠur inary\nr oute\niv as\nf itted\nĠeject ed\nĠAl buquerque\nĠ4 70\nĠirrit ated\nĠZ ip\nĠB iol\nà į\nĠden ounce\nĠbin aries\nĠVer se\nĠopp os\nĠKend rick\nĠG PL\nĠsp ew\nĠEl ijah\nĠE as\nĠdr ifted\nso far\nĠannoy ance\nĠB ET\n47 4\nĠSt rongh\nit ates\nĠCogn itive\noph one\nĠIdent ification\nocr ine\nconnect ion\nĠbox er\nĠAS D\nĠAre as\nY ang\nt ch\null ah\nĠdece ive\nComb at\nep isode\ncre te\nW itness\nĠcondol ences\nht ar\nĠhe als\nĠbuck ets\nĠLA W\nB lu\nĠsl ab\nĠOR 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a\nĠClass es\nFre edom\nun er\nL ady\nv oice\nĠcool est\nor r\nĠpal p\n$ {\nĠhyster ia\nĠMet atron\np ants\nĠspawn ing\nExper ts\nĠInvest ors\nĠAn archy\nĠshr unk\nĠVict im\nĠ28 9\nĠec stasy\nĠB inding\n58 5\nĠMel ody\n57 8\not ally\nĠE tsy\nlig a\nĠapplaud ed\nĠswe ating\nĠredist ributed\nĠpop corn\nĠsem inal\nf ur\nĠNeuro science\nR and\nĠO st\nĠMadd en\nĠIncre asing\nĠDaw kins\nĠSub way\nĠar sen\ncons erv\nB UR\nĠsp iked\nĠLy ft\nĠImper ium\nĠDrop box\nĠfav oured\nĠencomp asses\ngh ost\nĠins pires\nĠbur geoning\nĠY oshi\nĠVert ical\nĠAud itor\nĠint ending\nĠfilib uster\nBl oom\nf ac\nĠCav s\nign ing\nĠcowork ers\nĠBarb arian\nrem ember\nFL AG\nĠaudit ory\nason ry\nCol lege\nĠmut ed\ngem ony\nob in\nĠPsych o\n9 68\nĠlav ish\nĠhierarch ical\nĠDr one\nou k\nĠcripp led\nĠMax im\nSl ot\nĠqu iz\nĠV id\nif ling\nĠarchae ologists\nĠabandon ment\nd ial\nle on\nĠF as\nT ed\nĠr aspberry\nĠmaneu vers\nĠbehavi ours\nĠins ure\nĠrem od\nSw itch\nh oe\nĠsp aced\nĠafford ability\nĠF ern\nnot 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uddy\nĠMc Int\nĠDec ay\n5 25\nĠconspic uous\nĠEx posure\nĠresc ind\nĠwear able\nĠ3 28\nour met\nah s\nĠRob ots\nĠe clips\ninst ance\nĠRE PORT\nĠApp l\n0 30\nĠSk ies\n01 00\nĠfall acy\nS ocket\nĠRece iver\nĠsol ves\nĠButter fly\nĠSho pping\nĠFI RE\n65 4\nMed ic\nĠsing ers\nĠNeed less\n'' ''\nisher s\nĠD ive\n58 8\nĠselect ively\nĠcl umsy\n88 9\nĠpurch aser\near ned\nard y\nĠbenef iting\neng lish\nĠyield ing\nĠP our\nĠspin ach\nĠdel ve\nĠC rom\n6 10\nĠexport ing\nĠMA KE\nĠ26 3\nĠg rop\nĠenv oy\nĠInqu iry\nĠLu igi\nd ry\nĠT uring\nThumbnail Image\nĠVar iety\nĠfac et\nĠfl uffy\nĠexcerpt s\nĠsh orth\nĠOl sen\nCL UD\nĠrel iant\nĠUN C\nT our\nĠbat hing\nComp any\nĠglobal ization\nP red\nĠMalf oy\nĠh oc\nj am\ncraft ed\nĠBond s\nĠKiss inger\nEng land\nĠorder ly\ncat entry\nĠ26 1\nĠexch anging\nĠInt ent\nĠAmend ments\nD OM\nĠst out\n³³³³³³³³ ³³³³³³³³\nĠAir bus\nĠ27 8\nhy de\nP oll\nItem ThumbnailImage\nĠlooph oles\nĠPill ar\nĠexpl or\nSt retch\nA part\nĠun married\nLim it\nĠTransform 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e\nĠFen rir\nĠtherap ists\nore al\n^^ ^^\nĠtotal ed\nĠboo ze\nĠR PC\nProsecut ors\nĠdis eng\nĠSh ared\nĠmotor cycles\nĠinvent ions\nĠlett uce\nĠMer ge\nĠJ C\nĠspiritual ity\nĠWAR NING\nĠunl ucky\nĠT ess\nĠtong ues\nĠD UI\nT umblr\nĠle ans\nĠinv aders\nĠcan opy\nĠHur ricanes\nĠB ret\nĠAP PLIC\nid ine\nick le\nReg arding\nĠve ggies\nĠe jac\nju ven\nF ish\nD EM\nĠD ino\nTh row\nĠCheck ing\nbe ard\n( &\nĠj ails\nĠh r\ntrans fer\niv ating\nĠfle ets\nĠIm ag\nĠMc Donnell\nĠsnipp et\nIs a\nĠCh att\nĠSt ain\nĠSet FontSize\nĠO y\nĠMathemat ics\n49 4\nĠelectro ly\nĠG ott\nĠBr as\nB OOK\nĠF inger\nd ump\nĠmut ants\nĠrent als\nĠinter tw\nĠc reek\nail a\nBro ther\nĠDisc ord\npe e\nraw ler\nĠcar p\nĠ27 9\nãĤ· ãĥ£\nrel ations\nĠcontr asts\nCol umn\nĠrec onnaissance\nĠun know\nĠl ooting\nĠregul ates\nĠopt imum\nĠChero kee\nĠA ry\nLat est\nĠroad side\nĠd anced\nĠUnic orn\nA cknowled\nĠuncont roll\nĠM US\nat io\nch ance\nha ven\nVAL UE\nĠfavour ites\nĠceremon ial\nb inary\npe ed\nwood s\nEM P\nĠv 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ut\nĠbullet in\nĠSal vation\nĠch ats\near able\nHonest ly\nAL TH\nonse qu\nc ult\nisco very\novy ch\nĠse lves\nĠSat oshi\nS ounds\nĠconver gence\nĠRosen berg\n19 74\nĠnas al\nĠfull est\nĠfer ocious\nx us\nist e\nAM S\nĠlobb ied\nĠso othing\nĠGun n\nt oday\n0 24\nĠinspir ational\nĠN BN\np b\ng ewater\nor ah\nall owed\nĠCol iseum\nĠspecial izing\nĠinsane ly\nĠT ape\ndel ay\nĠt arn\nĠP ound\nĠmel anch\nĠdeploy ments\nil and\nĠless en\nĠfur ry\nĠUE FA\nĠblood shed\nĠMe ier\nither ing\nĠhe irs\nĠJ aw\nax ter\nĠPublic ations\nĠal ters\nint ention\nĠWinc hester\nd etermination\nĠLif etime\nth in\nMon ster\n7 80\nĠapprox imation\nĠsuper markets\nĠSecond s\nor os\nh uge\nĠb ribe\nĠLIM ITED\nun ed\nĠmis interpret\nĠIn jury\nĠ3 67\nĠthreshold s\nĠCarn ival\nĠgastro intestinal\nĠguid eline\nĠde ceived\nf eatures\nĠpurported ly\nĠRon nie\nĠNew t\nĠsp acious\nas us\nĠsuperhero es\nĠCyn thia\nle gged\nk amp\nch io\nĠth umbnail\nĠShir ley\nill ation\nĠshe ds\nĠZ y\nE PA\nĠdam s\nĠy awn\nn ah\nĠPe 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s\nĠcommun ion\nĠX Y\nĠph ony\nĠnewcom er\nĠ3 32\n.\" ,\"\nĠredist ribution\nProt ect\nĠSo f\nK al\nĠlip stick\nw orst\nĠtang led\nĠretrospect ive\nint eger\nĠvolunte ering\nĠ19 07\nĠ --------------------\nic hen\nĠunve iling\nĠsen seless\nĠfisher ies\n\\ -\nĠh inges\nĠcalcul us\nMy th\nĠund efeated\nĠoptim izations\nĠdep ress\nĠbill board\nĠY ad\nĠPy ramid\nIs n\nI de\nĠleg ion\nĠK ramer\nent anyl\nĠpenet rating\nĠHaw th\nĠPR ODUCT\nĠGer ard\nĠP act\nĠIn cluding\nĠEl ias\nĠEl aine\nvis ual\nĠhum ming\nĠcond esc\nĠF asc\nä¸ Ĭ\nĠe galitarian\nĠdev s\nĠD ahl\nO ps\nD H\nĠB ounce\nid ated\nald o\nĠrepublic an\nĠh amb\nĠS ett\nograph ies\nCH APTER\nĠtrans sexual\nĠsky rocket\nans wer\nĠmark up\nØ ª\nĠhero ine\nComp are\nĠT av\nBe ast\nĠsuccess ors\nĠna ïve\nĠBuck ley\nst ress\nme at\nĠdownload able\nĠindex ed\nĠsc aff\nĠL ump\nĠHom o\nStud io\nIn sp\nĠr acked\nfar ious\nĠPet ty\nEx ternal\nĠ19 09\nW ars\ncom mit\nput ers\nĠun ob\nĠEr r\nĠE G\nĠAl am\nĠSiber ia\nĠAtmosp heric\nIS TER\nĠSatan ic\ntrans lation\nĠL oud\ntra umatic\nl ique\nĠreson ate\nĠWel ch\nĠspark ing\nĠT OM\nt one\nĠout l\nĠhandc uffed\nĠSer ie\n8 01\nĠland marks\nĠRee ves\nĠsoft ened\nĠdazz ling\nĠW anted\nmonth s\nMag ikarp\nĠunt reated\nĠBed ford\nM i\nĠDynam o\nO re\n79 5\nĠwrong ful\nĠl ured\nĠcort isol\nĠve x\nd rawn\nile t\nDownload ha\nĠF action\nĠlab yrinth\nĠhij acked\nw aters\ner ick\nĠsuper iors\nĠRow ling\nĠGu inness\nĠt d\n99 2\nĠune arthed\nĠcentr if\nĠsham eless\nP od\nĠF ib\nĠ icing\nĠpredict or\nĠ29 2\nfore station\ncon struct\nC and\n@ #\nĠag itated\nĠre pr\nOV A\nĠkn itting\nĠLim a\nĠf odder\n68 4\nĠPerson a\nk l\n7 01\nĠbreak up\ná ¸\nĠapp alled\nĠantidepress ants\nĠSus sex\nHar ris\nĠTher mal\nee ee\nU pload\nĠg ulf\nĠdoor step\nĠSh ank\nL U\nĠM EN\nĠP ond\ns orry\nĠmis fortune\nn ance\nĠb ona\nM ut\nĠde graded\nĠL OG\nĠN ess\nan imal\nĠa version\nund own\nĠsupplement ed\nĠC ups\nĠ50 4\nĠdep rive\nĠSpark le\nÅ Ĥ\nĠMed itation\nauth ors\nĠSab an\nĠN aked\nair d\nĠMand arin\nĠScript ures\nĠPerson nel\nĠMahar ashtra\nĠ19 03\nĠP ai\nĠMir age\nomb at\nAccess ory\nĠfrag mented\nT ogether\nĠbelie vable\nĠGl adiator\nal igned\nĠSl ug\nM AT\nĠconvert ible\nĠBour bon\namer on\nĠRe hab\nnt ax\nĠpowd ered\npill ar\nĠsm oker\nĠMans on\nĠB F\n5 11\nĠGood ell\nĠD AR\nm ud\ng art\nĠob edient\nĠTrans mission\nĠDon ation\n8 80\nĠbother ing\nMaterial s\nãĤ ±\ndest roy\nĠfore going\nĠanarch ism\nĠK ry\nice ps\nĠl ittered\nĠSch iff\nĠanecd otal\nun its\nĠf ian\nĠSt im\nĠS OME\nĠInv aders\nĠbehaviour al\nĠVent ures\nĠsub lime\nĠfru ition\nĠPen alty\nĠcorros ion\n¶ ħ\nĠlik ened\nĠbesie ged\nween ey\nĠCre ep\nĠlinem en\nmult i\nic ably\nud der\nĠvital ity\nĠshort fall\nĠP ants\nap ist\nH idden\nĠDro ps\nmed ical\nĠpron unciation\nĠN RL\nĠinsight ful\nJ V\nĠBe ard\nĠCh ou\nĠchar ms\nĠb ins\nĠamb assadors\nĠS aturdays\nĠinhib itor\nĠFr anch\n6 01\n', '\nĠCon or\nart ney\nĠX peria\ng rave\nbe es\nĠProtest ants\nĠso aking\nĠM andal\nĠph ased\nĠ6 60\nĠsc ams\nĠbuzz ing\nĠItal 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os\nĠpollut ants\nĠPCI e\nk at\nĠp aw\nĠK raft\nC hem\nĠTermin ator\nĠre incarn\nĠ] [\nĠSe eds\nĠsilhou ette\nĠSt ores\nĠgro oming\nĠD irection\nĠIs abel\nĠBr idges\nðŁ ij\nE ED\nĠM orsi\nĠval ves\nĠRank ed\nĠPh arma\nĠOrgan izations\nĠpenet rated\nĠRod ham\nĠProt oss\nĠove rest\nĠex asper\nĠT J\nĠ 000000\nĠtrick le\nĠbour bon\nWH O\nĠw retched\nĠmicrosc opic\nĠcheck list\nĠad orned\nR oyal\nAd minist\nĠRet irement\nĠHig hest\nWe ather\nile ge\nĠincre ments\nĠC osponsors\nĠmas se\nĠS inn\nr f\nĠh ordes\nas sembly\n75 4\nĠNat asha\nĠTY PE\nĠGEN ERAL\nĠarr anging\nĠ40 7\nl ator\nĠg lean\nĠdisc redited\nĠclin icians\nUN E\nĠachie ves\nĠEm erson\ncom plex\n= [\nĠprincip ally\nĠfra il\np icked\nĠthan king\nĠre cl\nĠL AST\nĠsupp ressing\nil ic\nĠantidepress ant\nĠLis bon\nĠth or\nĠsp a\nĠking doms\nĠPear ce\nem o\nĠpl ung\nĠdiv est\nĠ ********************************\nb is\nosp els\nad r\nSp irit\nhall a\nP ink\nend ez\nĠresurrect ed\nesc ape\nĠRosen stein\nĠge ological\nĠnecess ities\nĠcarn iv\nĠE lys\nĠBar ney\nĠ29 6\ndig y\nST ON\nD OWN\nĠmil estones\nĠk er\nĠdismant ling\nĠre prim\nĠcross ings\n19 45\nĠpatri archy\nĠblasp hemy\nĠ3 59\nmet ry\nĠOb esity\nĠDiff erences\nbl ocking\nãĥķ ãĤ¡\nich ita\nĠSab ha\nph alt\nĠCol o\nual a\neffic ients\nĠMed ina\ncon sole\n55 7\nĠHann ibal\nĠHab it\nĠF ever\nĠthen ce\nĠsyn agogue\nĠessential s\nĠw ink\nĠTr ader\nID A\nĠSp oiler\nĠIceland ic\nĠHay ward\nĠpe ac\nĠmal ice\nĠflash back\nĠth w\nĠlay offs\nL iquid\nĠtro oper\nĠh inge\nĠRead ers\nPh ill\nĠB auer\nCre ated\nĠaud its\nac compan\nĠunsus pecting\nier a\n6666 6666\nĠbro ch\nĠapprehend ed\nĠM alk\ncer ning\nĠCod ex\nO VER\nM arsh\nĠD eng\nĠExp ression\nĠdisrespect ful\nĠasc ending\nt ests\nĠPlaint iff\nster y\nĠAl ibaba\ndin and\nĠDem psey\nApplic ations\nmor al\nĠthrough put\nĠquar rel\nĠm ills\nĠhe mor\nĠC ASE\nterror ist\nst im\nifest yle\nro zen\nCE PT\nAr k\nu ci\nlect ic\nĠirrit ating\nshe ets\nA y\nĠrede emed\nĠhorn y\nĠTe ach\nĠS ear\ndem ocracy\n4 65\nĠRest ore\nĠstand by\nĠP is\niff in\nĠsleep y\nĠextr ater\nĠcompl iments\nFram eworks\nĠinstall s\nĠb anging\nsur face\nfound land\nĠmetaph ysical\nĠ28 3\noul s\ndev ices\nAr gs\nĠSac rifice\nĠMcC orm\nes on\nCons ervative\nĠM ikhail\nsee ing\nis ively\nĠRo oms\nĠGener ic\nĠenthusi astically\nĠgri pped\nĠcomed ic\nĠElectric ity\nĠgu errilla\nĠdec oration\nĠPerspect ive\nĠconsult ations\nĠun amb\nĠplag iar\nĠmagic ian\nĠe rection\nĠTour ism\nor ied\nro xy\n11 00\nT am\nĪ è\nÎ ³\n× ª\nĠPred ators\nNit rome\nĠtelesc opes\nproject s\nĠun protected\nĠst ocked\nĠEnt reprene\nnex pected\nĠwast ewater\nV ill\nĠint imately\nĠi Cloud\nĠConst able\nĠspo of\nĠne farious\nĠfin s\nĠcens or\nĠMod es\nĠEs per\nar bon\nĠinter sections\nĠlaud ed\nĠphys i\nĠgener ously\nĠThe Nitrome\nĠTheNitrome Fan\nĠar isen\nĠÙ Ī\nĠg lands\nĠPav ilion\nĠGu pta\nĠuniform ly\nĠr amps\nri et\nĠWH EN\nĠVan essa\nĠrout ed\nĠlim p\nĠC PI\np ter\nint uitive\nĠv aping\nĠexperiment ed\nĠOlymp us\nĠAm on\nĠsight ing\nĠinfiltr ate\nĠGentle man\nĠsign ings\nĠMe ow\nĠNav igation\nche cks\n4 33\nĠel apsed\nĠBulg arian\nesp ie\nĠS OM\nd uring\nĠsp ills\nanc a\nĠPly mouth\nM AL\nĠdomest ically\nĠWater gate\nĠF AM\nk illed\ned ited\nĠYour self\nĠsynchron ization\nĠPract ices\nST EP\nĠgen omes\nĠQ R\nnot ice\nĠloc ating\nz in\nĠ3 29\nal cohol\nĠk itten\nV o\nĠr inse\nĠgrapp le\nĠSc rew\nĠD ul\nA IR\nĠle asing\nĠCaf é\nĠro ses\nĠRes pect\nĠmis lead\nĠperfect ed\nĠnud ity\nĠnon partisan\nĠCons umption\nReport ing\nĠnu ances\nĠdeduct ible\nĠSh ots\nĠ3 77\nĠæ ľ\nano oga\nBen ef\nĠB am\nĠS amp\nif ix\nĠgal van\nĠMed als\nrad ius\nĠno bles\nĠe aves\nigr ate\nK T\nĠHar bour\nu ers\nĠrisk ed\nre q\nĠneuro t\nget table\nain a\nRom ney\nĠunder pin\nĠlo ft\nĠSub committee\nĠMong ol\nb iz\nĠmanif ests\nass isted\nĠG aga\nĠsy nergy\nĠreligious ly\nĠPre f\nĠG erry\nT AG\nĠCho i\n4 66\nbeh ind\nĠO u\nGold Magikarp\nĠhemor rh\nR iver\nĠtend on\nĠinj ure\nĠF iona\nĠp ag\nĠag itation\n|| ||\nur an\nĠE SA\nĠest eem\nĠdod ging\nĠ4 12\nr ss\nĠce ases\nex cluding\nĠint akes\nĠinsert s\nĠemb old\nĠO ral\nup uncture\n4 11\nĠUn ified\nĠDe le\nĠfurn ace\nĠCoy otes\nĠBr ach\nL abor\nĠhand shake\nĠbru ises\nGr ade\néĹ ĺ\nĠGram my\nile en\nSt ates\nĠScandinav ian\nĠKard ash\n8 66\nĠeffort lessly\nĠDI RECT\nĠTH EN\nĠMe i\nert ation\n19 68\nĠgro in\nw itch\nRequ irements\n98 5\nĠroof s\nĠest ates\nĠH F\nĠha ha\nĠdense ly\nĠO CT\nĠpl astics\nĠincident ally\nĠTr acks\nĠTax es\nĠch anted\nĠforce ful\nĠBie ber\nĠK ahn\nK ent\nĠC ot\nlic ts\nF ed\nĠhide ous\nĠVer d\nĠSynd icate\nĠIl legal\nJ et\nĠD AV\nre asonable\nc rew\nĠfundamental ist\nĠtruth ful\nĠJ ing\nĠl il\nĠdown ed\nĠen chanted\nĠPolic ies\nĠMcM aster\nĠH are\nides how\nĠpar ams\nen cers\ngorith m\nĠallow ances\nĠturb ulent\nĠcomplex ities\nĠK T\nĠ3 37\nĠGen etic\nF UN\nD oug\nt ick\nĠg igs\nument hal\nĠpatriarch al\nĠcal c\n, ...\nĠc out\nĠGu an\nĠpath ological\nĠR ivals\nĠunder rated\nĠflu orescent\nĠJ iu\narna ev\nĠQu an\nĠ4 29\nĠ à¨\nM ario\nCon struct\nĠC itation\nĠR acial\nĠR SA\nĠF idel\nĠ3 95\nPerson ally\nC ause\nà »\nrad ical\nin en\nĠvehement ly\nĠPap a\nĠintern ship\nĠfl akes\nĠRe ck\nLuck ily\nB ra\n20 20\nrav ings\nR N\nW onder\nSer iously\nĠre usable\nĠpoll uted\nĠP eng\nle igh\nind le\nĠcircuit ry\nĠMad onna\nĠB ART\nRes idents\natt ribute\nPhil adelphia\nCl ub\nĠplan ner\nĠfr antically\nĠfaith fully\nĠTerrit ories\nĠL AT\nĠAnders en\nan u\nĠP ARK\nĠS ora\ni age\nĠPlay offs\nĠG CC\n4 27\nĠab norm\nĠL ever\nĠdisob edience\nAs ync\nĠShe a\nV ert\nĠsk irts\nĠSaw yer\nx p\nĠwors ening\nĠsc apego\nĠAng le\noth al\nĠtro ve\nĠSt y\nĠN guyen\nmar ine\nide on\nDep ths\nBl og\nĠIll uminati\nĠtract s\nĠorgan ise\nĠo str\nF s\nĠlever aging\nĠD aredevil\nas ar\nĠl ang\nĠex termin\nurs ions\nĠRom o\nãĤ¤ ãĥĪ\nĠcont ended\nĠencounter ing\nĠTable t\nĠAltern ate\nsk ill\nĠswe ets\nĠco hesive\ncap acity\nĠrep ud\nĠl izard\nro o\nĠpilgr ims\nĠR uff\nĠInstr ument\nĠLog o\nuit ous\nE H\nĠsales man\nĠank les\nL ed\nĠPat ty\nud os\nOwn er\nĠdiscrep ancies\nk j\nM 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i\nĠmyster iously\nesty les\nĠper ish\nĠEng els\nĠDE AD\n09 0\n}} }\nĠUn real\nĠrest less\nID ES\north odox\nĠInter mediate\nĠdin ners\nĠTr out\nĠSe ym\nĠHall s\nog ged\nĠtraged ies\nĠdid nt\n67 6\nĠail ments\nĠobserv able\nĠV ide\nad apt\nĠD usk\nĠprofessional ism\nĠPres cott\nĠInd ies\np ox\nĠMe hran\nW ide\nĠend emic\nĠPar an\nB ird\nĠped als\nĠI U\nĠAdam ant\nĠH urt\nĠcorrel ates\nurd en\nĠspons oring\ncl imate\nĠUnivers ities\nĠK not\nenn es\nĠDam ian\nĠAx el\nS port\nĠbar b\nĠS no\nsh own\nste en\nud ence\nĠnon violent\nĠhom ophobia\nĠbiom ass\nĠDet ail\nĠsrf N\nĠT une\naccompan ied\nI ENCE\nAl bert\nĠMong o\nz x\nĠCer berus\nor bit\nc ens\nĠsl ay\nSH ARE\nH Y\nĠb rawl\nĠPro be\nĠnonex istent\nĠClare nce\nĠBlack burn\nĠport als\nĠR ita\nĠRem ain\nĠLe vant\nĠtrick ed\nĠF erry\naver ing\nĠStraw berry\nĠAn swers\nĠhorrend ous\nĠA man\nSupp lement\nĠT oad\nĠpe eled\nĠman oeuv\nĠU zbek\nmond s\nĠH ector\nĠ40 2\npe es\nfix es\nĠd j\nĠres umes\nĠaccount ant\nĠadvers ity\nĠham pered\nĠL 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[\nP arts\nĠ4 35\nM eg\nĠY ards\nĠAL P\nĠy ells\nĠprin ces\nĠbull ies\nĠCapital ism\nex empt\nFA Q\nĠSp onge\nĠAl a\nĠpleas antly\nĠbu f\nĠden ote\nĠunp ublished\nĠkne eling\nasc a\nĠl apse\nal ien\n99 4\nĠrefere es\nĠLaw yers\nS anta\nĠpuzz ling\nĠProm etheus\nĠPh araoh\nĠDel ay\nĠfacilit ates\nĠC ES\nĠjew els\nĠbook let\nond ing\nĠpolar ization\nĠMor an\nĠSal ad\nĠS OS\nĠAdv ice\nPH OTOS\nIC AN\niat ures\nex press\nĠWonder land\nĠC ODE\nĠCL ASS\n9 75\nĠg rep\nĠD iesel\nĠGl ac\n! ?\"\nĠr m\no ine\ndisc rimination\nĠN urse\nm allow\nĠv ortex\nĠCons ortium\nĠlarge Download\nstra ight\naugh lin\nG rad\nĠpublic ized\nĠW aves\nĠRed d\nĠfest ivities\nĠM ane\nar ov\nĠfleet ing\nĠDr unk\nug en\nC ele\nĠchromos omes\nĠD OT\n-+-+ -+-+\nĠbus iest\nĠBe aver\nSy rian\nĠK yr\nk as\nĠCross Ref\n19 50\n76 01\nĠrepe aling\nĠWin ners\nĠMac ro\nĠD OD\nbl ance\nS ort\n64 1\nĠmet re\nĠD irk\nĠgo ggles\nĠdraw backs\nĠcomplain ant\nĠauthor izing\nĠantit rust\noper ated\nĠm ah\nĠexagger ation\nAm azing\nĠSer aph\nĠha ze\nw ow\nĠextingu ished\nĠcan yon\nĠB osh\nĠv ents\nĠsc rape\nCor rect\n4 26\nĠav g\nDem and\nĠâĪ ¼\nĠmicrobi ota\n\"} ],\"\nĠSt ev\nB io\nĠPlan es\nĠsuggest ive\nĠdec ipher\nĠRefuge e\nĠKe jriwal\nĠGreen peace\nĠdecl ass\nĠSound ers\nĠth o\nĠdec rypt\nĠbr ushing\nĠJane iro\nip op\nS i\n8 77\nĠGeoff rey\nĠc pu\nĠHaz el\nĠview points\nĠcris py\nĠNot ification\nĠsold er\nĠMod est\nĠHem isphere\nĠcass ette\nin cludes\nĠident ifiers\nĠC ALL\nin cent\nT odd\nĠSwe ep\nĠ3 34\nb oss\nĠsm ir\ngin x\nĠtown ship\nĠg rieving\nĠMos que\nNet flix\nAS ED\nĠMillenn ials\noc om\n19 67\nĠbold ly\ns leep\nĠes che\narij uana\nĠsw irl\nĠPen al\nĠneglig ent\nĠStephen son\nK ER\nĠZ oro\nris is\nĠlocal ization\nĠSeym our\nĠAng lic\nred itation\nprot ection\nĠPa ige\nĠo mit\nĠR ousse\nĠT ub\nĠinv itations\nt ty\nĠm oss\nph ysical\nC redits\nĠan archy\nĠchild care\nĠl ull\nĠM ek\nĠL anguages\nlat est\nĠSan ford\nĠus ability\nĠdiff use\nĠD ATA\nĠsp rites\nĠVeget a\nĠProm otion\nãĥ¼ ãĤ¯\nrict ing\nz ee\nTur kish\nĠTD s\npro ven\n57 1\nĠsmug glers\n707 10\nĠreform ed\nĠLo is\nĠun fl\nĠWITH OUT\nĠReturn ing\nann ie\nĠTom as\nFr anc\nĠProf it\nĠSER V\nĠR umble\nik uman\nes an\nĠt esters\nĠgad get\nĠbrace let\nĠF SA\ncomp onent\nĠparamed ics\nĠj an\nĠRem em\nĠSk inner\nĠl ov\nĠQu ake\nrom a\nĠfl ask\nPr inc\nĠover power\nĠlod ging\nĠK KK\nret te\nĠabsor bs\nw rote\nĠ ,\"\nK ings\nĠH ail\nĠFall ing\nxt ap\nĠHel ena\nire ns\nL arry\nĠpamph let\nĠC PR\nG ro\nĠHirosh ima\nĠhol istic\n\". [\nĠdet achment\nĠas pire\nĠcompl icit\nĠGreen wood\nĠresp awn\nĠSt upid\nĠFin ished\nf al\nb ass\nĠab hor\nĠmock ery\nĠFe ast\nVID EO\nĠcon sec\nĠHung ry\nP ull\nĠH ust\nit ance\n? ãĢį\n) --\nĠPar allel\ncon v\n4 69\nha ar\nw ant\nP aper\nm ins\nĠTor o\nĠTR UMP\nĠR ai\nD W\nĠW icked\nĠL ep\nĠfun ky\nĠdetrim ent\nios is\nache v\nĠde grade\nim ilation\nĠret ard\nĠfrag mentation\nĠcow boy\nĠY PG\nĠH AL\nParent s\nĠS ieg\nĠStra uss\nĠRub ber\n× IJ\nFr ag\nĠp t\nĠoption ally\nĠZ IP\nĠTrans cript\nĠD well\n88 2\nM erc\nĠM OT\nãĥ¯ ãĥ³\nĠhun ts\nĠexec utes\nIn cludes\nĠacid ic\nĠRespons ibility\nĠD umb\nwe i\nAnd erson\nĠJas per\night on\nabs olutely\nAd ult\nĠpl under\nMor ning\nĠT ours\nĠD ane\nÎ º\nĠT EST\nĠG ina\nĠcan ine\naw an\nĠsocial ists\nĠS oda\nĠimp etus\nĠSupplement ary\noli ath\nĠKinn ikuman\nmitted ly\nsecond s\nĠorganis ers\nĠdocument aries\nVari able\nGRE EN\nĠres orts\nĠbr agging\nĠ3 68\nArt ist\nw k\nbl ers\nUn common\nĠRet rieved\nĠhect ares\nĠtox in\nr ank\nĠfaith s\nĠG raphic\nĠve c\nĠL IA\nAf rican\nĠard ent\nend iary\nL ake\nĠD OS\ncient ious\nĠOk awaru\nĠAll y\nĠTim eline\nD ash\nĠI c\ncontin ue\nĠt idy\nĠinstinct ively\nĠP ossibly\nĠOut door\nĠWould n\nĠl ich\nĠBr ay\nĠA X\nĠà ī\nĠ+ #\n\\ '\nDirect ory\nab iding\nĠf eral\nic ative\nbut t\nĠper verse\nS alt\nĠwar ped\nĠnin eteen\nĠcabin ets\nĠsrf Attach\nĠSl oan\nĠpower ing\nreg ation\nF light\nse vere\nĠst ren\nĠc og\nap ache\nĠâ Ŀ\nĠcaf eteria\np aces\nĠGrim oire\nuton ium\nĠr aining\nĠcir cling\nĠlineback ers\nc redit\nĠrep atri\nĠCam den\nlic ense\nĠly ric\nĠdescript or\nĠval leys\nĠre q\nĠback stage\nĠPro hibition\nĠK et\nOp ening\nS ym\næĸ ¹\nĠserv ings\nĠoverse en\nĠaster oids\nĠMod s\nĠSpr inger\nĠCont ainer\nè »\nĠM ens\nĠmult im\nĠfire fighter\npe c\nĠchlor ine\nÐ ¼\nend i\nĠsp aring\nĠpolyg amy\nĠR N\nĠP ell\nĠt igers\nĠflash y\nĠMad ame\nS word\nĠpref rontal\nĠpre requisite\nuc a\nĠw ifi\nĠmiscon ception\nĠharsh ly\nĠStream ing\not om\nĠGiul iani\nfoot ed\nĠtub ing\nind ividual\nz ek\nn uclear\nm ol\nĠright ful\n49 3\nĠspecial ization\nĠpassion ately\nĠVel ocity\nĠAv ailability\nT enn\nĠl atch\nĠSome body\nĠhel ium\ncl aw\nĠdi pping\nXX X\nĠinter personal\n7 10\nĠsub ter\nĠbi ologists\nĠLight ing\nĠopt ic\nĠden im\nend on\nĠC orm\nĠ3 41\nĠC oup\nĠfear less\nĠal ot\nĠCliff ord\nĠRun time\nĠProv ision\nup dated\nlene ck\nĠneur on\nĠgrad ing\nĠC t\nsequ ence\nin ia\ncon cept\nĠro aring\nri val\nĠCaucas ian\nĠmon og\nkey es\nĠappell ate\nĠlia ison\nEStream Frame\nĠPl um\n! .\nĠsp herical\nĠper ished\nĠbl ot\nĠben ches\nĠ4 11\nĠpione ered\nĠhur led\nJenn ifer\nĠYose mite\nCh air\nĠreef s\nĠelect or\nĠAnt hem\n65 2\nĠun install\nĠimp ede\nĠbl inking\nĠgot o\nDec re\nA ren\nĠstabil ization\nĠDis abled\nĠYanuk ovych\nĠoutlaw ed\nĠVent ura\nten ess\nĠplant ation\nĠy acht\nĠHu awei\nĠsol vent\nĠgr acious\nĠcur iously\nĠcapac itor\nĠc x\nĠRef lex\nPh ys\nĠC f\npt in\ncons ervative\nĠinv ocation\nc our\nF N\nĠNew ly\nH our\nAs ian\nĠLe ading\nĠAer ospace\nAn ne\nĠpre 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ing\nĠAppalach ian\nL OS\nĠJenn a\nĠpass ers\nç ĭ\nsn ap\nĠshort en\ncreat or\nĠinn umerable\nuther land\n67 4\nĠW OM\nĠAs cend\nĠArm ory\nĠTrans action\nK ick\nĠsuit case\nday Name\nĠwaste ful\nmar riage\nĠMcC abe\nite ch\nĠO ss\nCl osure\nĠTreasure r\nĠindec ent\nĠD ull\nĠresid ences\n19 59\nĠS ettlement\nHam ilton\nĠself ies\nĠRank ing\nĠBark ley\nĠB ore\nĠW CS\nĠMar itime\nĠH uh\nĠForest ry\nĠcultiv ating\nĠBall ard\nĠg arrison\nĠSD L\n9 30\nĠnas cent\nĠirresist ible\nĠaw fully\n\\/ \\/\nĠequ ate\nĠanthrop ology\nĠSylv ia\nĠintest ine\nĠinnoc uous\ncess ive\nag ra\nĠMet roid\nG rant\n8 55\nģ ĸ\nĠ\" _\nãĥĥ ãĥī\nĠappra isal\nĠFred dy\n04 6\nĠ40 6\nĠ18 30\nĠd ocking\nSt atic\nĠp ont\nĠVolt age\nĠSt ead\nĠMort gage\nĠJon ah\nY L\nCLASS IFIED\nĠas bestos\nnik ov\nĠcoll agen\nĠOrb ital\nP ocket\n7 99\nĠhy brids\ninc hes\nĠinv oice\nund y\nĠinequ alities\nT rend\nw ashed\nB ALL\nĠluc id\nĠComment ary\nĠw itty\nBr andon\nĠbru ising\nĠ6 20\nes cent\nbox ing\nP OL\nĠ3 78\nR ect\nĠlic ences\nĠMcG ee\np ressed\nD anny\nĠj ammed\nord inate\nĠle th\nĠdistingu ishes\nĠYam aha\nIL S\nĠH ume\nĠC ategories\nRober ts\nCh art\nĠbeet le\nĠGra veyard\nĠ($ )\no ÄŁ\nĠtw ilight\nare lla\ná ½\nĠbooth s\nĠH HS\nĠFeld man\nĠexcav ation\nĠphilosoph ies\nat ography\nĠGar age\nte chnology\nĠunfor gettable\nĠver ifying\nĠsubord inates\nE ls\nĠne b\nG aming\nEN A\nĠAchieve ment\nit ters\nĠG abe\nĠd umps\nfor cer\nĠpo ignant\nĠM BA\nĠHe idi\nime i\nĠm ages\nĠliber ate\nĠcircum cised\nĠMer maid\nĠMat th\nt ogether\nĠW ichita\nĠstore front\nĠAd in\nV II\nFour th\nĠexplore rs\nW ER\nNot able\nBro ok\nm ens\nF aith\n-------- -\nĠJ ou\n¬ ¼\nĠpine apple\nĠam alg\nel n\nark able\nĠãĤµ ãĥ¼ãĥĨãĤ£\nĠãĤµãĥ¼ãĥĨãĤ£ ãĥ¯ãĥ³\nĠov arian\nĠE choes\nĠhairc ut\nĠp av\nĠch illed\nanas ia\nĠsty led\nĠd ab\nni per\nĠminister ial\nĠD UP\nT an\nĠsul ph\nĠD eter\nĠBo hem\nod an\nĠeduc ator\nâ ĵĺ\nsp ir\nCh icken\nĠE leanor\nĠqu i\nĠheav iest\nĠgrasp ed\nU RA\nĠcro oked\nJess ica\npro blem\nĠpred etermined\nĠman iac\nĠbreath s\nĠLauder dale\nĠh obbies\ny z\nCr ime\nĠcharism a\nd L\nĠle aping\nĠk ittens\nAng elo\nĠJ ACK\nĠSu zanne\nĠhal ting\nENT ION\nĠswall owing\nĠEarthqu ake\nĠeight eenth\nĠN IC\nĠIN F\nĠCons cious\nĠparticular s\ncirc le\n7 40\nĠbene volent\nĠ7 47\nĠ4 90\nĠr undown\nĠVal erie\nĠB UR\nĠcivil isation\nĠS chn\nW B\not ide\nintern ational\nĠj ohn\nĠ19 02\nĠpe anuts\nĠflav ored\nk us\nĠro ared\nĠcut off\né £\nĠorn ament\nĠarchitect ures\nĠ3 69\nol or\nĠWild e\nĠC RC\nĠAdjust ed\nĠprov oking\nland ish\nĠrational ity\nĠjust ifies\nĠdisp el\nĠa meric\nĠPol es\nØ ©\nĠen vis\nĠD oodle\nä½ ¿\nigs aw\nauld ron\nTechn ical\nT een\nup hem\nĠX iang\nĠdetract ors\nĠZ i\nĠJournal ists\nĠconduc ive\nĠVolunte ers\nĠs d\nKnow ing\nĠtrans missions\nĠPL AN\nĠL IB\nĠall uded\nĠob e\nĠd ope\nĠGold stein\nĠwavelength s\nĠDest ination\nnd a\nug i\nĠattent ive\nĠLe an\nral tar\nĠman g\nmb uds\nak ings\nb ender\nĠacc ol\nĠcraw led\nN OW\nMin nesota\nĠflour ished\nĠZ up\nĠSuper visor\nĠOliv ier\nEx cellent\nĠwid en\nD one\nĠw ig\nĠmiscon ceptions\nCor p\nW an\nĠvener able\nĠNot ably\nĠKling on\nan imate\nBo ost\nĠS AY\nmiss ing\nibli ography\nmel on\nĠpay day\nØ ³\nbo le\nĠve iled\nĠAl phabet\nIt alian\nĠever lasting\nĠR IS\nĠC ree\nrom pt\nĠh ating\nĠgrin ning\nĠge ographically\nOS H\nĠwe eping\nĠÂłĠÂłĠÂłĠÂł ĠÂłĠÂłĠÂłĠÂł\nĠimpe cc\nLet ter\nĠblo ated\nPL A\nĠFe in\nĠper sever\nTh under\nĠa ur\nĠR L\nĠpit falls\nâĸ º\nĠpredomin ant\nĠ5 25\n7 18\nAP E\n7 14\nĠfarm land\nĠQ iao\nĠv iolet\nĠBah amas\nĠinflic ting\nĠE fficiency\nĠhome brew\nĠundert ook\nĠcur ly\nĠHard ing\nman ia\n59 6\nĠtem pered\nĠhar rowing\nĠP ledge\nĠFranken stein\nè ª\nM otion\nĠpredict ably\nĠExpl osion\noc using\ner d\ncol o\nFF ER\nĠback field\nĠV IDE\nue bl\nN arr\nĠArg ument\nĠgen omic\nĠbout ique\nĠbatt ed\nĠB inary\nĠg amb\nĠRh ythm\n67 3\nĠa float\nĠOlymp ia\nY ING\nĠend if\nis in\nĠwin ters\nĠsc attering\nI v\nD istance\nĠtr u\nĠCom fort\nĠne xus\nĠair flow\nĠByz antine\np ayers\ncon i\nĠB etsy\nD eal\nĠN ug\nĠContin ent\nred ibly\nĠoptim izing\nal beit\nĠec static\nĠPro to\nç ·\niv ot\nâĸ Ħ\nem p\nrou nder\nĠcl out\nĠI ST\n66 3\nĠDoll ars\nĠD AC\nĠsubsc ribed\nĠrehears al\nĠam ps\nĠSh ang\nes m\nĠspr inkle\nĠassail ant\nĠO o\nĠCoin base\nT act\nĠret ina\nĠn uns\nR ON\natt o\nĠj ug\nĠSV G\nĠb ikini\nĠFI LE\nĠFound ers\nep ort\nĠK P\nĠrest ores\nĠTh ick\nĠash ore\nĠappro vals\nR ender\nM AG\nG raham\nĠCort ana\nãĥ³ ãĤ¸\nss h\nor ians\nars ity\nĠInsp ired\nu pper\nĠsign alling\nĠreb uke\nĠfl ares\nĠdownt ime\nStud ies\nĠstagn ation\nĠSequ ence\nĠgr unt\nĠass ures\nĠPL A\n59 2\nĠintra ven\nd epend\nSus an\nĠManz iel\nMan ia\nCont ract\nĠsl ams\nĠcult ured\nĠcred itor\nL IST\nĠH UM\nĠChatt anooga\nserv ed\nĠclo aked\nĠF TP\np owder\nĠSt ella\nuct ive\nĠcheap ly\nĠMU CH\nĠGalile o\nĠsu ites\nspe ech\nĠdeliber ations\nĠCh ips\n« ĺ\nBal ance\nĠWyn ne\nĠAk ron\nAss et\nĠhon oured\nĠed ged\nLike wise\nanim ous\nĠW age\nĠEz ek\nad vertisement\nĠRT X\nĠM AD\nĠmigr ating\nĠS QU\nĠ4 75\nEd ited\nĠshorth and\nĠBas ics\nĠcro tch\nĠEV EN\nĠv m\neffic iency\nĠcal ves\nĠF rie\nĠBrill iant\nĠstri kers\nĠrepent ance\nĠarter ies\nr l\nB ed\nh ap\nĠcrypt ography\nĠSab res\nĠ4 14\nvi ks\nih ara\naps es\nT alking\nĠintertw ined\nĠdoc ks\nĠalle le\nĠArt ifact\nĠH IM\nt orn\nç ķ\nĠop acity\nĠE ly\nos uke\nĠn ipple\nĠhand written\nĠV K\nĠChamber lain\nĠLa os\nig raph\ng row\nĠtr illions\nĠdescend ant\nĠSail or\nas uring\nĠce ilings\nĠWare house\nf lying\nĠGl ow\nĠn ont\nĠmiscar riage\nĠrig s\nĠmin istries\nĠelabor ated\nĠdel usional\nĠHum ane\nĠ3 79\nn ets\nĠblack out\nadd ers\nĠn p\nĠT ire\nro sc\nĠsub div\nĠlink age\nĠchron ological\nĠHER O\nĠres ettlement\nĠVin yl\nĠpast oral\nĠMob il\nĠBar bar\nCo oldown\nĠF ritz\nc riminal\nre pe\nĠbell ig\nĠBre ed\nĠ4 18\nĠsem blance\nij k\nĠcur tail\nĠclin ch\ncont ained\nĠProm pt\nast on\nĠw i\nĠpursu its\n5 15\nĠGl oss\nĠfl ips\nĠcoup ons\nĠcl oning\nĠLike ly\nRem oved\nĠQu artz\nr ices\nĠSpe ars\nĠp ious\nĠdep reciation\nĠD are\noun ces\nam az\nO nt\nĠp innacle\nd ocker\n0 26\nĠW yr\nĠPro per\nË Ī\nn il\nBy tes\nĠseek er\nt rial\nĠunf olds\nĠMar se\nĠextravag ant\nĠSurviv ors\nRED ACTED\nĠSpeed way\nĠCra igslist\nsub mit\nĠGener ations\nĠup holding\nĠblood stream\nĠMiss ions\nĠL awn\nĠlim bo\nene i\nH uh\nĠWild cats\npre p\nĠMark us\nĠFor bidden\nrit ic\nIN O\nĠexhib iting\nrequ ent\nch uk\nĠhabit ual\nĠComp atibility\nDr ag\nRIP T\nuj ah\nGR OUND\nĠdelinqu ent\nĠburn er\nĠcontempor aries\nĠgimm ick\nload s\nĠno zzle\np odcast\nĠW ak\nĠStat en\nĠK uh\nãģ ĵ\ninter rupted\nĠinv incible\nĠBurn ett\ncig arette\nĠPeb ble\nĠTem porary\nĠMar ino\n58 2\nĠwast eland\nident ly\nT x\nĠr ite\nĠPan asonic\nĠM iddles\nĠHort on\nae us\nĠc uring\nĠm ats\nĠadj ourn\nĠfears ome\npe z\nbo ats\nĠpro pell\nĠconflic ted\nĠAng er\nĠinsurg ent\nK arl\nĠco ales\nĠsouth western\nĠdis su\nĠO vert\n******** ****\nĠbox ed\nĠBr une\naa a\nĠgard ening\nĠEng el\ntr acks\nĠpur ified\nĠplace holder\nĠL ikes\nĠd an\nG ab\nĠe ct\nĠF aw\nĠEl iot\nĠ' ,\notrop ic\nĠRu in\nhed on\nĠca ul\nĠa ft\nĠCad illac\ngh a\nass ian\nud eb\nĠT ick\nĠadjust s\nAR GET\n5 37\nisc he\nant y\nĠFried rich\nĠBl izz\nĠA OL\nCamp aign\nĠmamm al\nĠVe il\nĠK ev\nĠMaur it\nĠDam ien\nN ation\nE astern\nĠ{ :\nĠ= ================================\nĠstereotyp ical\nĠatt ic\nĠCy borg\nrequ ire\nĠaward ing\nĠPap ua\nbt n\nb ent\nB oo\nĠ( =\nĠX ander\nĠSomers et\nĠcatch y\nĠcert ify\nSTR UCT\nĠit al\nĠt ides\nĠBr ands\nG ray\ncomp etitive\nĠcur ator\nĠD G\nomin ium\nĠGM Os\nci ating\nĠCarm en\now ard\nBalt imore\nĠr gb\nC u\nĠwip es\nspe ll\nIT NESS\nĠsummar izes\nĠRe vis\nĠwhistlebl owers\nĠBre ach\nĠcro chet\nk os\news ki\nĠrep et\nĠcrim son\nĠKar achi\nread able\ndim ension\nĠI gor\nild ed\nĠZ ed\nĠKe ane\nĠCos metic\nDE P\nĠretreat ing\nĠU A\nens ical\nĠd usk\nĠDick ens\nĠaren as\nĠPass age\nlevel s\nĠcur v\nP ope\nĠch ores\nĠEl ise\nĠComp ass\nb ub\nĠmamm alian\nĠSans krit\nĠAN C\nĠCr ack\nQ ual\nL aun\namp unk\nĠlearn ers\nĠglam orous\nĠfur the\nerm ott\nc and\nGener 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ging\nĠbother s\nĠPan zer\nĠCh andra\nfig ured\nĠvol ts\nĠCloud s\nĠfee ble\nĠCur ve\nĠAs us\n78 6\nabs or\nĠV ICE\nĠH ess\nĠmanufact ures\nĠgri zz\nĠPower ful\nac id\nĠsub sections\nĠKrug man\nĠAl ps\nis u\nĠsequ est\nĠUlt ron\nĠT inker\nĠGo ose\nĠmism atch\nAtt orney\nĠmorph ology\nĠSix ers\nut tered\nĠE LECT\ngr an\nRus sell\nĠG SL\nĠfort night\nĠ. )\nĠapost le\npr one\nel ist\nUnt itled\nĠIm plementation\nist ors\nĠtank er\nĠpl ush\nĠattend ants\nĠT ik\nĠGreen wich\nĠY on\nĠSP L\ncell s\nunt led\nS olution\nĠQu é\nĠvac ated\nĠupt ick\nĠMer idian\næ ĥ\nĠDr ill\n9 25\n58 4\nĠrenov ated\nĠKub rick\nzy k\nĠl ousy\npp el\nohyd rate\nĠI zzy\nlesi astical\nCC C\nĠAj ax\nĠad apters\nĠPetra eus\nĠaffirm ation\nĠST OR\nle ms\nad oes\nĠConstantin ople\nĠp onies\nĠl ighthouse\nĠadherent s\nĠBre es\nomorph ic\nFight ing\nĠpl aster\nĠP VC\nĠOb st\nĠdear ly\nĠTo oth\nicks on\nĠsh aming\nP lex\nA gg\nĠâĢ¦ \"\nĠsub reddits\nĠpige on\nĠResident ial\nĠPass ing\nĠl um\nĠP ension\nĠpessim istic\nĠ4 32\nz inski\nc ade\n0 75\nĠapolog ised\niy ah\nPut ting\nĠgloom y\nĠLy me\n=-=-=-=- =-=-=-=-\nĠT ome\nĠPsych iatric\nĠH IT\nc ms\nap olog\nĠbreak er\nĠdeep en\nĠtheor ist\nĠHigh lands\nĠb aker\nĠst aples\nĠinterf ered\nĠAb ortion\njo ined\nch u\nĠform ulate\nĠvacc inations\nĠban ter\nphe us\nĠoutfield er\nĠM eter\nĠ# ####\nĠ18 95\nĠnarrow ing\nĠST ORY\nf p\nĠC ST\nign ore\nĠproclaim ing\nĠR U\nĠB ALL\nyn a\n65 3\nĠpos it\nP RE\n59 4\nĠRegist rar\nĠPil grim\nic io\nĠpre tt\nĠlif eless\nĠ__ _\nNe igh\nĠCh urches\norn o\nĠor cs\nĠkind red\nĠAud it\nĠmillenn ial\nĠPers ia\ng ravity\nĠDis ability\nĠD ARK\nW s\nod on\nĠgrand daughter\nĠBro oke\nĠA DA\nER A\nĠpick ups\nĠWil kinson\nĠSh ards\nĠN K\nĠexp el\nĠKis lyak\nĠj argon\nĠpolar ized\nian e\nPub lisher\nĠreb utt\nĠapprehens ion\nĠK essler\nĠpr ism\nF UL\n19 64\nĠL oll\nä ¿\nle thal\nÅ Ł\nĠg hetto\nĠb oulder\nĠSlow ly\nĠOsc ars\nĠInst ruction\nĠUl tr\nĠM oe\nN ich\nĠP ATH\n( *\nĠRE LEASE\nun ing\nrou se\nen eg\nĠre imb\nĠDet ected\nDo S\nĠster ling\nĠaggreg ation\nĠLone ly\nĠAtt end\nhig her\nĠairst rike\nks on\nSE LECT\nĠdef lation\nĠHer rera\nC ole\nrit ch\nĠadvis able\nF ax\nĠwork around\nĠp id\nmort em\ners en\nĠtyp o\nĠal um\n78 2\nĠJam al\nscript s\nĠcapt ives\nĠPres ence\nĠLie berman\nangel o\nĠalcohol ism\nass i\nĠrec ite\nĠgap ing\nĠbask ets\nĠG ou\nBrow ser\nne au\nĠcorrect ive\nund a\nsc oring\nĠX D\nĠfil ament\nĠdeep ening\nĠStain less\nInt eger\nĠbu ggy\nĠten ancy\nĠMub arak\nĠt uple\nĠD roid\nĠS itting\nĠforfe it\nĠRasm ussen\nixt ies\nes i\nĠKim mel\nĠmetic ulously\nĠap opt\nĠS eller\n08 8\nec ake\nhem atically\nT N\nĠmind less\nĠdig s\nĠAcc ord\nons ense\nem ing\nbr ace\nĠe Book\nĠDist ribut\nĠInvest ments\nw t\n] ),\nbeh avior\n56 3\nĠbl inding\nĠPro testers\ntop ia\nĠreb orn\nĠKel vin\nĠDo ver\nĠD airy\nĠOut s\nĠ[ /\nÏ Ģ\nb p\nĠVan ity\nĠRec ap\nĠHOU SE\nĠF ACE\nĠ4 22\n69 2\nĠAnt ioch\ncook ed\nĠcoll ide\nĠa pr\nĠsle eper\nĠJar vis\nĠalternative ly\nĠLe aves\nĠM aw\nĠantiqu ity\nĠAdin ida\nĠab user\nPoké mon\nĠass orted\nĠRev ision\nĠP iano\nĠG ideon\nO cean\nĠsal on\nĠbust ling\nogn itive\nĠRah man\nĠwa iter\nĠpres ets\nĠO sh\nĠG HC\noper ator\nĠrept iles\nĠ4 13\nĠG arr\nĠCh ak\nĠhas hes\nĠfail ings\nĠfolk lore\nĠab l\nĠC ena\nĠMac Arthur\nĠCOUR T\nĠperipher y\napp ers\nĠreck oned\nĠInf lu\nĠC ET\nĠ3 72\nĠDefin itive\nass ault\n4 21\nĠreservoir s\nĠd ives\nĠCo il\nDA Q\nĠvivid ly\nĠR J\nĠBel lev\nĠec lectic\nĠShow down\nĠK M\nip ed\nreet ings\nĠAs uka\nL iberal\nĠÏ Ħ\nĠbystand ers\nĠGood win\nuk ong\nS it\nĠT rem\nĠcrim inally\nĠCirc us\nch rome\n88 7\nĠnan op\nĠOb i\nĠL OW\no gh\nĠAuth ors\nob yl\nUr ban\nĠt i\nĠWe ir\nt rap\nag y\nĠparent heses\nĠout numbered\nĠcounter productive\nĠTob ias\nub is\nP arser\nST AR\nĠsyn aptic\nĠG ears\nĠh iber\nĠdebunk ed\nĠex alted\naw atts\nH OU\nCh urch\nĠPix ie\nĠU ri\nĠForm ation\nĠPred iction\nC EO\nĠthro tt\nĠBrit ann\nĠMad agascar\në ĭ\nĠbill boards\nĠRPG s\nĠBe es\ncomplete ly\nF IL\nĠdoes nt\nĠGreen berg\nre ys\nĠsl ing\nĠempt ied\nĠPix ar\nĠDh arma\nl uck\ningu ished\nĠend ot\nĠbab ys\n05 9\nche st\nr ats\nĠr idden\nĠbeet les\nĠillum inating\nĠfict itious\nĠProv incial\nĠ7 68\nĠshe pherd\nĠR ender\nĠ18 96\nC rew\nĠmold ed\nĠXia omi\nĠSp iral\nĠdel im\nĠorgan ising\nĠho ops\nĠBe i\nz hen\nĠfuck in\nĠdec ad\nĠun biased\nam my\nsw ing\nĠsmugg led\nĠk ios\nĠP ERSON\nĠInquis itor\nĠsnow y\nĠscrap ing\nĠBurg ess\nP tr\nag ame\nR W\nĠdro id\nĠL ys\nĠCass andra\nJac ob\nĠ35 4\nĠpast ure\nĠfr anc\nĠScot ch\nĠEnd s\nĠI GF\ndef inition\nĠhyster ical\nĠBrown e\n77 1\nĠmobil ization\næ ķ\niqu eness\nTh or\nĠspear headed\nĠembro iled\nĠconject ure\njud icial\nCh oice\nĠpaper back\nP ir\nĠrec overs\nĠSur ge\nĠSh ogun\nĠPed iatrics\nãģ ł\nĠsweep s\nĠLabor atories\nĠP acks\nal us\nadd in\nĠhead lights\ng ra\nEv idence\nCOL OR\nAd min\nĬ ±\nĠconco ct\ns ufficient\nĠun marked\nĠrich ness\nĠdiss ertation\nĠseason ing\nĠg ib\nĠM ages\nun ctions\nĠN id\nche at\nĠTM Z\nc itizens\nĠCatholic ism\nn b\nĠdisemb ark\nĠPROG RAM\na ques\nTy ler\nOr g\nĠSl ay\nĠN ero\nĠTown send\nIN TON\nte le\nĠmes mer\n9 01\nĠfire ball\nev idence\naff iliated\nĠFrench man\nĠAugust a\n0 21\nĠs led\nĠre used\nĠImmun ity\nĠwrest le\nassemb led\nMar ia\nĠgun shots\nĠBarb ie\nĠcannabin oids\nĠTo ast\nĠK inder\nIR D\nĠre juven\nĠg ore\nĠrupt ure\nĠbre aching\nĠCart oon\nĠ4 55\nĠPale o\n6 14\nĠspe ars\nĠAm es\nab us\nMad ison\nGR OUP\nĠab orted\ny ah\nĠfel on\nĠcaus ation\nĠprep aid\nĠp itted\nop lan\nĠShel ley\nĠRus so\nĠP agan\nĠwill fully\nĠCan aver\nund rum\nĠSal ary\nĠAr paio\nread er\nĠR ational\nĠOver se\nĠCa uses\nĠ* .\nĠw ob\nKe ith\nĠCons ent\nman ac\n77 3\n6 23\nĠfate ful\net imes\nĠspir ited\nĠD ys\nĠhe gemony\nĠboy cot\nĠEn rique\nem outh\nĠtim elines\nĠSah ara\nĠRel ax\nĠQuin cy\nĠLess ons\nĠE QU\nSE A\nN K\nĠCost co\nIncre ase\nĠmotiv ating\nĠCh ong\nam aru\nĠDiv ide\nĠped igree\nĠTasman ia\nĠPrel ude\nL as\n9 40\n57 4\nĠch au\nĠSp iegel\nun ic\n-- >\nĠPhil ips\nĠKaf ka\nĠuphe aval\nĠsent imental\nĠsa x\nĠAk ira\nser ial\nMat rix\nĠelect ing\nĠcomment er\nĠNeb ula\nple ts\nĠNad u\nĠAd ren\nĠen shr\nĠR AND\nfin ancial\nĠCly de\nuther ford\nĠsign age\nĠde line\nĠphosph ate\nrovers ial\nf ascist\nĠV all\nĠBeth lehem\nĠfor s\nĠeng lish\nS olid\nN ature\nĠv a\nĠGu ests\nĠtant al\nĠauto immune\n;;;;;;;; ;;;;\nĠTot ally\nĠO v\nĠdef ences\nĠCoc onut\nĠtranqu il\nĠpl oy\nĠflav ours\nĠFl ask\nãĤ¨ ãĥ«\nĠWest on\nĠVol vo\n8 70\nĠmicro phones\nver bal\nR PG\nĠi ii\n; }\n0 28\nĠhead lined\nĠprim ed\nĠho ard\nĠSh ad\nĠEN TER\nĠtri angular\nĠcap it\nl ik\nĠAn cients\nĠl ash\nĠconv ol\nĠcolon el\nen emy\nG ra\nĠpub s\nut ters\nĠassign s\nĠPen et\nĠMon strous\nĠBow en\nil ver\nH aunted\nĠD ing\nstart ed\npl in\nĠcontamin ants\nĠDO E\nff en\nĠTechn ician\nR y\nĠrob bers\nĠhot line\nĠGuard iola\nĠKau fman\nrow er\nĠDres den\nĠAl pine\nE lf\nĠf mt\nĠS ard\nurs es\ng pu\nUn ix\nĠunequiv ocally\nĠCitizens hip\nqu ad\nm ire\nĠS weeney\nB attery\n6 15\nĠpanc akes\nĠo ats\nM aps\nĠCont rast\nmbuds man\nĠE PS\nĠsub committee\nĠsour cing\nĠs izing\nĠBuff er\nĠMand atory\nĠmoder ates\nĠPattern s\nĠCh ocobo\nĠZ an\nĠSTAT ES\nĠJud ging\nĠIn her\n* :\nĠb il\nĠY en\nĠexh ilar\noll ower\nz ers\nĠsn ug\nmax imum\nĠdesp icable\nĠP ACK\nĠAn nex\nĠsarcast ic\nĠlate x\nĠt amp\nĠS ao\nb ah\nĠRe verend\nĠChin atown\nĠA UT\nd ocumented\nĠGA BA\nĠCan aan\nĠÙ ħ\nĠgovern s\npre v\nE sc\nĠEst imates\nOS P\nĠendeav our\nĠCl osing\nomet ime\nevery one\nĠwor sen\nĠsc anners\nĠdev iations\nĠRobot ics\nĠCom pton\nĠsorce rer\nĠend ogenous\nĠem ulation\nĠPier cing\nĠA ph\nĠS ocket\nĠb ould\nĠO U\nĠBorder lands\nĠ18 63\nG ordon\nĠW TO\nĠrestrict s\nĠmosa ic\nĠmel odies\nç Ħ\nT ar\nĠdis son\nĠProv ides\nĠ ......\nb ek\nF IX\nĠbro om\nans hip\nDo ctors\nĠner ds\nĠReg ions\nna issance\nĠmet e\nĠcre pt\npl ings\nĠgirlfriend s\nkn it\nig ent\now e\nĠus hered\nĠB az\nM obil\n4 34\nĠPres ents\norig in\nĠins omnia\nĠA ux\n4 39\nĠCh ili\nirs ch\nG AME\nĠgest ation\nalg ia\nrom ising\n$ ,\nc row\nĠIn spection\nat omic\nRel ations\nJ OHN\nrom an\nĠClock work\nĠBak r\nm one\nM ET\nĠthirst y\nĠb c\nĠfacult ies\nR um\nĠnu ance\nĠD arius\nple ting\nfter s\netch up\nReg istration\nĠK E\nR ah\nĠpref erential\nĠL ash\nĠH H\nVal id\nĠN AV\nĠstar ve\nĠG ong\nz ynski\nĠAct ress\nĠw ik\nĠun accompanied\nlv l\nBr ide\nAD S\nĠCommand o\nĠVaugh n\nWal let\nĠho pping\nĠV ie\nĠcave ats\nĠal as\nif led\nab use\n66 1\nĠib n\nĠg ul\nĠrob bing\nt il\nIL A\nĠmit igating\nĠapt ly\nĠty rant\nĠmid day\nĠGil more\nĠDe cker\nĠ§ §\npart ial\nEx actly\nĠphen otype\nĠ[+ ]\nĠP lex\nĠI ps\nvers ions\nĠe book\nĠch ic\ng ross\n\":\" \"},{\"\nĠSur prisingly\nM organ\nĠresid ues\nĠConf ederation\nin feld\nĠl yr\nmod erate\nĠperpend icular\nV K\nĠsynchron ized\nĠrefres hed\nĠad ore\nĠTor ment\nol ina\nĠ26 00\nItem Tracker\nĠp ies\nĠF AT\nĠR HP\n0 48\nĠRES P\nĠB J\nall ows\nP and\nĠunw elcome\nĠV oc\nĠBast ard\nĠO W\nĠL AR\nĠHeal er\nEnvironment al\nĠKen yan\nĠTr ance\nĠP ats\nĠali ases\nĠGar field\nĠcampaign er\nĠadvance ments\nĠOkin awa\nĠC oh\nows ky\nĠstar ved\nĠsize able\nĠ: -)\nĠm RNA\nĠsusp ensions\nist ar\nScot land\nPr in\n-------------------------------- ----------------\nĠ50 2\nĠteasp oons\nĠ10 50\nĠcoerc ive\nĠMason ic\nedd ed\nĠPass enger\nĠl att\nĠbr aces\nĠSt eal\nĠNY T\nĠK ats\nĠCel est\nae z\nT u\nĠCoul ter\nðŁ ĺ\nFl ickr\nĠWil mington\nith s\n++ ;\nĠv ending\nĠneg ro\nĠPh i\nĠYellow stone\nCall back\nĠsh ampoo\nĠSh ades\nw at\nĠsuper human\nĠridic uled\nĠhol iest\nom bo\nĠintern s\nĠh one\nĠPar agu\nUR I\nĠd angling\nãĤ »\nso v\nict ional\nav ailability\nĠrev ocation\nĠd ow\nin ic\nĠTHE IR\nĠis o\nĠout ings\nĠLeth al\nĠ) ))\nĠinacc ur\nĠout landish\nĠan us\nlet ico\nid on\nl ol\nĠun regulated\nĠsuccumb ed\nĠc uff\nĠWast eland\nlet al\nĠsub str\nĠcoff ers\nĠautom akers\nov i\nĠX ue\nĠDayton a\nĠjar ring\nĠf umes\nĠdisband ed\nz ik\nitt on\nĠstriking ly\nĠsp ores\nAd apter\n.) :\nĠLynd on\nival ry\nĠor ally\nĠtumult uous\nĠdisple asure\nĠcon es\nor rect\nĠappe ase\nĠder by\nĠTrip oli\nĠAl ess\nĠp oked\nĠGu ilty\nv P\nEn ough\nĠorig inals\n6 99\nĠrabb i\nĠproverb ial\nĠpostp one\nel ope\nĠMist y\nĠstaff ed\nĠUn employment\nredit ary\nĠdilig ent\nre comm\nme asures\nas in\n8 25\nĠpond s\nĠmm ol\nĠS AR\nĠC ARE\nĠ3 71\nĠclen ched\nĠCors air\nĠcaric ature\nz n\natt ach\nĠSch ro\nspe ak\np ainted\nĠS uc\nĠE NT\nĠcell ul\nĠP aid\ndi agn\nWH ERE\nĠtext ed\nB arn\nĠret racted\nĠRe ferred\nS av\nĠup keep\nĠwork places\nĠTok ens\nĠampl ify\ncl inical\nĠmult ic\nmber g\nĠconvol uted\nReg ion\n5 65\nĠTop ic\nĠsn ail\nĠsal ine\nĠins urrection\nĠPet r\nf orts\nB AT\nĠNav ajo\nĠrud imentary\nĠLak sh\nOND ON\nMe asure\nĠtransform er\nĠGodd ard\nĠcoinc ides\nir in\nR ex\nĠB ok\nqu it\nĠshotgun s\nĠprolet arian\nĠsc orp\nĠAd a\n5 14\nĠsl ander\nrecord ed\nĠemb ell\nris ome\nĠapolog izing\nĠMul cair\nĠGib raltar\nCl a\nĠall ot\nĠAtt ention\nĠ4 33\nle ave\nĠwh ine\nĠIss a\nĠFa ust\nĠBar ron\nhen y\nĠvictim ized\nJ ews\nĠnurt uring\nett el\nW inged\nĠSub tle\nĠflavor ful\nĠRep s\neng ed\ncall back\nĠdirection al\nĠcl asp\nĠDirect ions\nplan et\nicult ure\nHel per\nic ion\nac ia\nĠç ¥ŀ\nĠsur ges\nĠcan oe\nĠPrem iership\nbe en\nĠdef ied\nĠTro oper\nĠtrip od\nĠgas p\nĠE uph\nĠAd s\nvern ight\nhigh ly\nR ole\nĠent angled\nĠZe it\n6 18\nĠRust y\nĠhaven s\nĠVaugh an\nHA EL\nĠSER VICE\n/ ,\nĠstr icken\nĠdel usions\nĠb is\nĠH af\nĠgrat ification\nĠent icing\nUN CH\nAd ams\nĠOL ED\nĠBeet le\nĠ18 99\nĠSO FTWARE\nateg or\nV L\nĠTot em\nĠG ators\nAT URES\nĠimped ance\nReg istered\nĠC ary\nĠAer ial\non ne\nen ium\nĠd red\nĠBe g\nĠconcurrent ly\nĠsuper power\nĠX an\nj ew\nimes ter\nĠDick inson\nâĶ ģ\nF la\nĠp ree\nĠRoll ins\n© ¶æ\nĠden omination\nĠL ana\n5 16\nĠinc iting\nsc ribed\nj uries\nĠWond ers\napp roximately\nĠsusp ending\nĠmountain ous\nĠL augh\noid al\nN s\nDet ect\n) =\nĠL uthor\nĠSchwarz enegger\nĠMull er\nĠDev i\nec ycle\nJ ar\n6 13\nĠL ongh\nB ah\nĠSP ORTS\nn w\nĠref inement\nĠwater ways\nĠd iner\nBl ade\n68 3\nF ac\nĠinitial s\nĠro g\nĠparan ormal\nB UT\nĠ[ (\nĠSw anson\nĠM esh\nâĸ ¬\nImpro ve\nĠRad iation\nĠEst her\nĠE sk\nĠA ly\nik y\nĠir rad\nĠBuck ingham\nĠref ill\nĠ. _\nRe pe\nCON CLUS\nĠdifferent iated\nĠchi rop\nĠAt kins\nPat tern\nĠexc ise\nĠcab al\nN SA\nĠST A\nĠS IL\nĠPar aly\nĠr ye\nĠHow ell\nĠCount down\nness es\nalys ed\nĠres ize\nãĤ ½\nĠbudget ary\nĠStr as\nw ang\nĠap iece\nĠprecinct s\nĠpe ach\nĠsky line\nĠ35 3\npop ular\nApp earances\nĠMechan ics\nĠDev Online\nS ullivan\nZ en\nĠp u\nop olis\n5 44\nĠde form\nĠcounter act\nĠL ange\nĠ4 17\nCon sole\n77 4\nĠnodd ing\nĠpopul ism\nĠhe p\nĠcoun selling\ncompl iance\nU FF\nĠunden iably\nĠrail ing\nĠHor owitz\nĠSim one\nĠBung ie\nĠa k\nĠTal ks\nx ff\nfl ake\nCr ash\nĠsweat y\nĠban quet\nĠOFF IC\nĠinvent ive\nĠastron omer\nĠStam ford\nĠSc are\nĠGRE EN\nolic ited\nĠr usher\nĠcent rist\night ing\nĠsub class\nĠdis av\nĠdef und\nĠN anto\noci ate\nm ast\nĠpac if\nĠm end\ne ers\nimm igration\nESS ION\nĠnumber ing\nĠlaugh able\nĠEnd ed\nv iation\nem ark\nP itt\nĠmetic ulous\nĠL F\nĠcongrat ulated\nĠBir ch\nĠsway ed\nĠsemif inals\nĠhum ankind\nm atter\nĠEqu ip\nopa usal\nS aid\nĠLay out\nĠvo icing\nĠth ug\nĠporn ographic\nI PS\nĠmo aning\nĠgriev ance\nĠconf essions\nesc al\nTEXT URE\nAut hent\nos aurus\nP urchase\nĠreleg ation\nal ter\nĠÂł Âł\nĠr iddled\nĠo gre\nĠLow ell\nOcc up\nE at\nĠHy der\nĠAdvis er\nCom merce\nH unt\nĠOr th\nĠComp etitive\nĠCL A\nCD C\nĠsal ads\nF le\nĠindustrial ized\n` ,\nĠO WN\nĠbec k\nĠPart icularly\noub t\nĠm M\nĠHuss ain\nĠChen nai\nĠ9 20\nĠappoint ing\nĠCull en\n,,,, ,,,,\nĠp ores\nver ified\nĠbi ochemical\nem ate\nĠcoward ly\nĠHels inki\nĠEthiop ian\nS OURCE\nER C\nest ro\nĠbi otech\nĠS our\nĠbrew er\nBloom berg\nĠintens ify\nGl ass\nan co\nĠF DR\ngre SQL\nĠF ires\n©¶æ ¥µ\nec o\n100 1\nĠHom eless\nĠinstant aneous\nĠH aste\nig el\nD iamond\nĠp aving\nĠland fill\nĠd ads\nh oun\n: ]\nĠinc endiary\nĠLiving ston\nĠHil bert\nĠChe cks\nst yles\nin ators\nĠCl ive\nph rine\nĠchimpan zees\nĠp all\nĠJ M\nĠAad haar\nð Ŀ\nĠachie vable\ndis abled\nP ET\nOOOO OOOO\nM ot\nĠint angible\nĠbal let\nĠWe bs\nĠEst imated\nEffect s\nĠb ailed\nJosh ua\nĠturb ulence\nĠoccup ant\nĠDay light\nĠ36 1\nme et\nĠstat ically\nĠon look\nĠk i\nil legal\nĠvel vet\nĠdehyd ration\nĠacqu ies\nĠRe z\nak ura\nĠU pton\nat ro\nĠincomp rehensible\nĠback door\nĠRh ino\n7 27\nĠmath s\n) +\nĠhe resy\nĠd f\nĠRoc he\nĠL ydia\nĠpanc reat\nre ply\narre ll\nĠsolicit ation\nĠcirc adian\nBI P\nĠfor ay\nĠcrypt ic\niz u\nime o\nĠTom ato\nĠH oms\nex amination\nĠqu arry\nĠVal iant\nĠJer icho\nĠIN CLUD\nĠ18 40\n5 19\nĠres ists\nĠsnap shots\nĠSp ur\nĠAnt iqu\nLog in\nĠbest selling\nĠant ic\nĠS utherland\nãĤ¢ ãĥ«\nĠ~ /\nĠP arm\nè ĥ\nP ages\nint ensity\nĠimm obil\nĠ18 65\nzz o\nĠn ifty\nĠf entanyl\nĠPres ervation\nop hen\nĠd arts\nĠD inosaur\npo inters\nĠR ite\ns uggest\naware ness\nĠSher idan\nĠst ances\nĠsor cery\nĠper jury\nĠNik ola\nie ver\nĠf iance\nĠJordan ian\nĠBall oon\nĠn ab\nĠk b\nĠhuman ities\nĠTan aka\nhill ary\nĠconsult ancy\nĠZ ub\nĠrem ission\nĠconf id\nCH Q\nĠF ug\nĠimpro vis\nY ep\n/ _\nĠunwilling ness\nĠport folios\n05 5\nĠInstruct or\naim an\nĠclaim ants\nM bps\nĠBy e\nre ceived\nT weet\nĠind emn\nri z\nam ara\nN at\nĠeval uates\nĠL ur\nep ad\nFO X\nĠTh ro\nĠrust y\nĠbed rock\nĠOp rah\nJ B\nĠmanip ulative\nĠwill ful\nĠrel apse\nĠext ant\nThe me\nS ensor\nĠSt ability\ngo vern\nĠpo ppy\nĠkn ack\nĠins ulated\nĠT ile\nĠExt rem\nĠunt old\nĠconver ge\nĠref uel\nig roup\nĠdistort ions\nĠrav aged\nĠmechan ically\nĠRe illy\nĠN ose\nĠIncarn ation\nĠBeck y\nabb ling\nĠt aco\nĠr ake\nĠmelanch oly\nĠillust rious\nĠDart mouth\nGu ide\nĠR azer\nĠBen z\nUlt imate\nĠSur prise\nĠpage ant\noff er\nWho ever\nĠw iser\nĠchem ist\nĠHE LL\nĠBul k\nĠpl utonium\nĠCO VER\nÖ ¼\nf ailed\nĠtire lessly\nĠinf ertility\nĠTr ident\nĠShow time\nĠC iv\nV ice\nrequ ires\nitt ance\nĠun controlled\ninterest ing\n56 1\nĠinnov ate\nateg ic\nL ie\nĠS elling\nU l\nĠsav ior\nĠT osh\nĠsw ast\nP ASS\nĠr ink\nĠcard io\nĠI ro\nud i\nĠv antage\nĠv ans\nĠNi ño\n+ =\nĠpropag ate\n< ?\nĠmethod ological\n204 39\nĠtrig lycer\nĠing rained\nĠAn notations\narr anted\n6 17\nĠS odium\nĠA AC\ntechn ical\nmult ipl\nĠ3 73\nå ĭ\nĠdec isively\nĠboost ers\nĠdessert s\nĠGren ade\nĠtest ifying\nĠSc ully\nID s\nĠlock down\nĠSc her\nĠR é\nĠWhit man\nĠRams ay\nrem ote\nĠh ikers\nĠHy undai\nĠcons cientious\nĠcler ics\nĠSiber ian\nut i\nis bury\nĠrel ayed\nĠqu artz\nĠC BI\nseek ers\null a\nĠweld ing\nĠSh al\nble acher\nT ai\nĠSam son\nĠt umble\nĠInvest or\nĠsub contract\nĠShin ra\now icz\nj andro\nd ad\nĠtermin ating\nĠNe ural\nä» £\nĠleak age\nĠMid lands\nĠCaucas us\ní ķ\nc it\nll an\niv ably\nĠAlb ion\nĠ4 57\nĠregist rations\nĠcomr ade\nĠclip board\n0 47\nĠdiscour aging\nĠO ops\nAd apt\nĠem path\nn v\nĠPR OT\nĠDon n\nĠP ax\nĠB ayer\nt is\nSqu are\nĠfoot prints\npart icip\nĠChile an\nB rend\nind ucing\nM agn\nĠclub house\nĠMagn um\nĠenc amp\nĠEth nic\nuch a\nere y\nĠw atered\nĠCal ais\nĠcomplex ion\nĠsect s\nĠren ters\nĠbr as\noÄŁ an\nTime out\nMan agement\nĠinf ographic\nP okemon\nCl ar\nĠloc ality\nĠfl ora\nas el\nP ont\nĠpop ulate\nĠO ng\nĠsubs istence\nĠa uctions\nĠMcA uliffe\nĠL OOK\nbr inger\nĠtit an\nĠmanif old\nĠâĹ ı\nĠcalibr ated\nĠcal iphate\nĠSH E\nĠCommission ers\nce ivable\nj c\nW inner\n5 24\nĠcond one\nOther wise\nĠp iling\nĠem body\nĠCrime an\nut ics\nĠEx hibition\nĠ4 26\ne ering\nĠv ying\nĠH UGE\n* =-\nĠprin cipled\nà ¦\nĠquir ks\nĠEdit ors\nput ing\nG ES\nĠF TA\nठ¾\nadd on\nĠH AM\nĠFrie za\nW oman\n. $\nĠc rib\nĠHer od\nĠtim ers\nĠSp aces\nĠMac intosh\nat aka\nĠgl ide\nĠsmell ing\nĠB AL\nĠun su\nĠcond os\nĠbicy cl\nĠRev ival\n55 3\nĠjugg ling\nH ug\nĠKardash ian\nĠBalk ans\nmult iple\nĠnutrit ious\noc ry\n19 00\nĠinteg rates\nĠad joining\nĠF older\nroll ment\nven ient\nĠu ber\ny i\nĠwh iff\nĠJu ven\nĠB orough\nnet te\nĠb ilingual\nĠSp arks\nph thal\nman ufact\nĠt outing\nĠPH I\nKe efe\nRew ard\nĠinf all\nĠTem per\ntyp ically\nĠNik ol\nĠregular s\nĠpseud onym\nĠexhib itions\nĠbl aster\nĠ40 9\nw arming\nĠrever ber\nĠrecip rocal\nĠ6 70\nip ient\nb ett\nĠBe gins\nĠit ching\nĠPh ar\nAss uming\nĠem itting\nĠML G\nĠbirth place\nĠt aunt\nĠL uffy\nĠAm it\nĠcir cled\nĠN ost\nenn ett\nĠde forestation\nĠHist orically\nĠEvery day\nĠovert ake\n79 2\nĠn un\nĠLuc ia\nĠaccompan ies\nĠSe eking\nĠTr ash\nan ism\nR ogue\nĠnorth western\nĠSupplement al\nĠNY U\nĠF RI\nĠSat isf\nx es\n5 17\nĠreass ured\nĠspor adic\nĠ7 01\nĠmed ial\nĠcannabin oid\nĠbarbar ic\nĠep is\nĠExplos ive\nĠD ough\nĠuns olved\nSupport ed\nĠacknowled gment\nsp awn\nĠkit chens\nĠ- =\ntalk ing\nic ist\nĠPeg asus\nĠPS U\nĠphot on\nĠAuthent ication\nR G\n@# &\n76 2\nĠCl air\nĠdi aper\nĠbr ist\nĠProsecut ors\nĠJ em\n6 28\nĠEvery where\nĠJean ne\nequ ality\nãĥ© ãĥ³\nobject s\nĠPel icans\nĠ39 2\nĠbl u\nb ys\nĠA go\nĠinstruction al\nĠdiscrim inating\nĠTR AN\nĠCorn el\nag os\nĠty re\nĠas piration\nĠBrid gewater\n\": -\n! \".\nĠEn s\nĠCoc o\nP ie\nĠdet ach\nĠC ouch\nĠphys ique\nĠOccup ations\nosc opic\nen ough\nB uzz\nApp earance\nY P\nĠrac er\nĠcompl icity\nr pm\nT oy\nĠinterrupt s\nĠCat alyst\nĠut ilitarian\nimp act\nĠsp aghetti\nĠp orous\nĠeste emed\nĠinc iner\nĠI OC\n7 48\nĠesp resso\nĠSm ile\nabil ia\n6 35\nĠmathematic ian\nĠ4 24\nĠK L\nĠH IP\nĠover heard\nĠT ud\nĠT ec\nĠqu izz\nĠfl attering\nĠcon n\nâĢ İ\nĠatt aches\nĠR OS\nĠAC S\nĠt cp\nĠSh ame\nsk ip\nres pected\nĠTrin idad\ngr ain\nĠfooth old\nĠUnch arted\nĠJul io\nz l\nav ored\nĠAn xiety\ner rors\nĠCent auri\nits ch\nD addy\nĠclutch ing\nĠIm plement\nĠGut ierrez\nĠ7 60\nĠtele portation\nend ra\nĠrevers ible\nst ros\nAd venture\n08 3\nĠliber ating\nĠas phalt\nĠSp end\nAR DS\nim sy\nPR ES\nĠEmer ging\nĠwild fires\nĠtechn ologically\nĠem its\nĠART ICLE\nĠirregular ities\nĠcher ish\nçī Ī\nĠst ink\nĠR ost\nEconom ic\nĠcough ing\nĠMcC ann\npro perties\nilant ro\nĠreneg oti\nTrans lation\nĠin quest\nĠGra pe\noot ers\ngu i\nĠSwords man\nace ae\nh itting\nĠr c\nĠexert ed\nĠS AP\nit ent\nĠperil ous\nĠobsc urity\nĠassass inate\nĠab original\nĠresc uing\nĠSh attered\nlock ing\nall ion\nCh anging\nĠHar rington\nĠB ord\nĠAfgh ans\nJam ie\naret z\nĠAugust us\nĠ38 6\n8 30\nĠj og\nok ingly\nTr igger\nĠH OR\nStat istics\nĠviewers hip\nĠadd itives\nh ur\nĠmaxim izing\nĠR ove\nĠLou ie\nĠBuck et\nĠCHR IST\nou sel\nĠstre aks\nir ted\nĠt ert\nĠcolonial ism\nĠbur ying\ny k\nCond ition\nĠDPR K\nBy Id\n75 1\nâĹ ¼\nĠwor risome\nĠvoc ational\nsl ice\nĠsa ils\nĠCorrection al\n95 4\nĠt ul\nK id\nl uster\nĠfam ilial\nĠSp it\nĠEp iscopal\nSpecific ally\nĠVol cano\nrun s\nq s\nĠve tted\nĠcram med\nt rop\nhere r\nThank fully\nĠper cussion\nĠor anges\nĠround up\nĠ4 99\nx ious\nChar acters\nĠZion ism\nĠR ao\nÃĽ ÃĽ\nW F\nĠunintention al\nONE Y\nGr ab\nCom mercial\nĠglut amate\nĠMcK enna\nru ciating\nning ton\nih u\nCh an\nĠSw ap\nĠleaf lets\nĠfunction ally\ner ous\nF arm\nĠcal oric\nĠLiter ally\ncon cert\nĠshe nan\nĠrep aid\ney es\nĠbas hing\nĠG orge\nĠcollabor ations\nĠun account\nitch ie\nĠteam work\npp elin\nĠpip ing\nĠmin ced\nĠd iam\nri eg\nĠmasc ara\nĠsuck er\nĠMo ons\nApp s\nĠPe ck\nĠper v\nĠFl oat\no ley\nĠN ish\nim ize\nĠarom atic\nu in\nend ish\n! /\nĠB icycle\nĠAS IC\nile ged\nĠQuad ro\nios yn\nĠlock out\nĠW ink\nSP EC\nAttempt s\nĠseed ed\nred o\nias is\nĠsn ag\nãĥķ ãĤ©\nãĤ ¶\nĠground ing\nĠrelie ver\nĠfrivol ous\nĠG ifts\nĠF aces\nEs pecially\nĠmicrobi ome\nim ag\nĠSch l\nĠP les\nĠBle ach\nĠIr win\nĠE aton\nĠDisc iple\nĠmultipl ication\nĠcoer ced\nĠ4 19\nst h\nE vil\nB omb\nĠex orc\nĠstag gered\nL ESS\nĠinert ia\nĠED IT\nĠgo b\nTr aditional\nĠclass y\nLear y\nĠP AGE\nyr s\nĠtrans porter\nĠmat ured\nĠhij ab\nĠbi ome\nWhere as\nĠex termination\nĠT ues\nĠT akeru\nĠAud rey\ner ial\nĠAd en\naff les\nĠnarciss istic\nĠB aird\nUT F\nI re\nĠCon nie\nCh amp\nĠwhis pering\nĠH att\nD K\nĠdis infect\nĠdeduct ed\nĠpart ake\nĠdown grade\nĠEs ports\nĠContin uing\nĠdemocr atically\nicro bial\nitt a\nĠlim estone\nĠexempt ed\nĠFren zy\nH erm\n7 28\nĠfled gling\nMet a\n765 61\n69 3\n% :\nw ake\n5 26\nĠDis cipline\nĠvirgin ity\nĠLeg ions\nĠFrank ie\nint ent\nĠrest rooms\nĠRou ter\nda q\nĠobjection able\nâĨ ij\nw ark\nĠRah ul\ng ain\nactiv ation\nabs olute\nĠAccess ed\nĠ24 00\nogg les\nĠsecond ly\nĠDEF ENSE\nĠpost age\nwra pper\nsh arp\n7 29\nĠcommun icates\nĠadd on\nĠMil itia\nH ong\nĠsl umped\nĠJP EG\nĠI car\nad ish\n68 1\nĠmaj esty\nĠWolf gang\nĠEl astic\nu per\nĠv iz\nĠunconscious ly\nĠST D\nĠS ass\nĠflower ing\nĠHel ic\nĠDra per\nĠAm ateur\nĠman ure\nĠdis ingen\nĠLe i\nbr ing\n9 49\nĠinhib ited\nĠhead quartered\nĠen igmatic\n�� �\nĠred ress\nR H\nĠratt led\nĠd iction\nl io\nĠT BA\nĠSN AP\nC alling\nĠfasc ists\nĠD ove\niew icz\n0 36\nĠco asts\nĠR ect\nĠ) ]\nL ot\n6 29\nĠS EM\nĠPeters en\nĠExpl ain\nĠBo ards\nĠBe zos\nĠJ ournals\nĠ20 24\np arser\nĠmist rust\nĠgr ate\nĠL ocked\nbo a\nS aint\ng aming\nĠvow el\nin ately\nbl ow\nAll ah\nĠun matched\nĠb ordering\nĠExp end\nn r\nOr acle\nrou ch\nĠcont iguous\nac us\nĠdist raught\n58 1\nĠanat omical\nO X\nap ixel\n8 33\nĠPL US\nĠres usc\nĠab iding\n57 3\nĠvac ancies\nEm ily\nĠhyp othal\nĠWer ner\nĠWe e\nĠDJ s\n5 13\nĠwitch craft\nĠac upuncture\nent ary\nbenef it\nProduct s\nĠP SP\nĠMP G\nĠJ inn\nĠJ arrett\nĠ4 45\nĠIm aging\nĠP yth\nFin ish\nĠte x\nĠjuven iles\nĠhero ism\nĠdoubt less\nĠA ki\nĠT end\nĠPatri arch\nĠbit ters\nĠTele communications\nit atively\nag na\nĠr g\nĠS OLD\nĠcomp ulsion\nĠN asa\nĠKath ryn\nĠmillion aires\nĠintrins ically\nĠbolst ered\ntime out\nfl o\nĠtut or\np our\nStat ement\nĠ{ *\nĠRud olph\nĠKimber ly\nrog ens\nadi q\n] +\nĠindign ation\nĠfract uring\nĠRe leases\nĠGr ain\npro tein\nL ago\nĠvac ations\nĠboot ed\nĠTH REE\nĠH G\noresc ence\nĠt f\nĠso ar\niosyn cr\nĠgl ances\nĠSp oon\nĠJ ury\nĠCow boy\nĠcreat ively\nHig her\nĠsolic itor\nĠhaw k\nac io\n89 6\nĠsuperf lu\nĠbombs hell\nct ure\nĠbroker age\nĠraid ing\nĠf rench\nĠang led\nTrans action\nĠGen ocide\nu pe\nĠHait ian\n57 2\n! :\nĠunwitting ly\niter ator\nsc roll\nĠtall ied\nĠbi omedical\nĠC ARD\nĠe uphem\nĠbrain storm\na quin\nK o\nMic helle\nĠR unes\nĠBall istic\nud ers\nĠmod esty\nĠiP ads\nĠEzek iel\nY E\nĠstars hip\nĠpower fully\nĠper l\nĠSh ade\nĠQu art\nĠE EG\nĠfisher man\nOS ED\nĠTyp ical\ndf x\nĠmes hes\nĠet ched\nworth iness\nĠtopp led\nĠ3 96\nor ius\nWe iss\nĠmy sql\nĠVal halla\nÙ Ĵ\nle asing\nĠrec omp\nrap nel\nS el\n04 3\nĠder ailed\nĠGu ides\nIR T\nĠde human\nĠBritt any\n\" ))\nĠex claim\nĠb alk\nĠ8 40\nCLA IM\nint el\nL AB\nĠpe gged\nĠast roph\nsm oking\nĠrig ging\nĠfix ation\nĠcat apult\nins ide\nĠC ascade\nĠBolshe vik\nG aza\nDep th\nĠloud spe\nĠalmond s\nme yer\nl eness\nj en\nf resh\nĠunbeat en\nĠSqu id\nĠPres umably\nTim er\nB W\nĠro sters\nĠell ipt\nĠHar riet\ndat abase\nĠMut ual\nĠComm odore\nuk ed\nkn ife\nĠCOMM UN\nh ya\nĠmel ts\narch ives\nĠrat ification\nĠmultip lying\nĠinter oper\nĠasc ert\nw ings\nver ting\nĠScorp ion\nay e\nĠPorts mouth\nĠM TA\nn it\niaz ep\nĠqu arantine\nĠslides how\nĠcent imeters\nĠsyn opsis\nĠsp ate\nth irst\nĠnom inating\nĠMel vin\nPre view\nĠthro b\nĠgener ational\nĠRad ius\nrest ling\nput able\naw ar\nN ECT\nĠunlaw fully\nĠRevel ations\nWik ipedia\nsur v\nĠeye ing\nij n\nĠF W\nĠbr unt\nĠinter stellar\nĠcl itor\nĠCroat ian\nĠCh ic\nev a\nĠDis app\nĠA kin\niner ies\nd ust\nInterest ed\nĠgen esis\nĠE ucl\nö n\np icking\nĠmut ated\nĠdisappro ve\nĠHD L\nĠ6 25\nÌ ¶\nc ancer\nĠsqu ats\nĠle vers\nDisc uss\n= ]\nD ex\nĠVIDE OS\nA UD\nĠtrans act\nĠKin ect\nĠK uala\nĠC yp\n7 47\nĠsh attering\nĠarsen ic\nĠInt ake\nĠAngel o\nĠQu it\nĠK he\nĠ18 93\nM aker\n0 29\nĠPain ting\nDis able\n9 16\nĠanal ges\nĠtact ile\nĠprop hes\nĠd iced\nĠTravel s\nĠHe ader\nĠClub s\nAss istant\nĠinc rim\nĠd ips\nĠcruc ifix\nĠShan ahan\nĠInter pret\nĠ40 90\nal ogy\nabb a\nĠsimul ac\nhus band\nS IM\nĠrecy cle\nuc er\ned ged\nĠre naissance\nĠBomb ay\nCath olic\nĠL INE\nĠCl othing\nre ports\nĠpl aus\nĠd ag\nĠM ace\nZ I\nĠintr uder\nĠVeter inary\ng ru\nĠsne aky\nĠS ie\nĠC innamon\nP OSE\nĠcou rier\nĠC NS\nĠemanc ipation\ns it\nĠplay through\nĠFac ilities\nv irt\nĠG auntlet\nThom pson\nĠunbeliev ably\nParam eters\nĠst itching\nign e\nĠTH ESE\nPriv acy\nĠshenan igans\nĠvit ri\nĠVal id\n59 1\nŃ ·\nĠProt otype\nink a\nSC P\nĠT id\nè Ī\nold ed\nĠindividual ity\nĠbark ing\nĠm ars\nĠW D\nĠ8 20\nĠt ir\nĠsl apping\nĠdisgr untled\nĠAng ola\nri us\nĠTorn ado\nĠTh urs\nĠcapt cha\nĠang st\nĠP og\nĠAssass ins\nĠAd idas\nĠjoy ful\nĠwh ining\nEmer gency\nĠphosph orus\nĠatt rition\noph on\nĠTimber wolves\nĠJ ah\nĠBr inging\nĠW ad\nĠEn sure\noh l\nĠX ie\nomm el\nc mp\nĠz ipper\nĠrel at\nĠCor ridor\nm ilo\nT ING\nAv g\nĠcro pped\n] }\nĠr aged\nĠLump ur\nĠGuer rero\nour ke\nN ut\nĠoff sets\nog lu\ndr m\nĠmort als\nlat able\nĠdismiss ive\nä¸ ī\nĠthro ats\nĠchips et\nĠSpot light\nCatal og\nart ist\nG b\nĠch illy\nĠst oked\nĠ3 74\nW ard\nL atin\nĠf iasco\nĠble ach\nĠb rav\nEnh anced\nĠin oc\nĠFior ina\n_ >\nĠle ukemia\nĠel uc\nĠannoun cer\nĠLith uan\nĠArm ageddon\nå ĩ\nLen in\nĠR uk\nĠpe pp\nĠRom antic\nĠP IT\nĠInter stellar\nĠAt kinson\nR aid\nJ s\nGo al\nC ourse\nĠvan ishing\nes ley\nĠR ounds\nEls a\n59 3\nĠredund ancy\nĠST AND\nĠprop hetic\nĠhabit able\nry u\nĠfaint ly\nM ODE\nĠfl anked\nIR C\nAw esome\nĠsp urious\nĠZ ah\nĠMS G\nĠsh ading\nĠmotiv ational\nĠSant ana\nĠS PR\nĠexc ruciating\nom ial\nĠM iko\nĠLe opard\nA byss\nĠ[ |\nd irty\nĠbath s\nĠdem oral\nand re\nP B\nĠun ification\nĠsac rament\nĠ[ &\nĠpric eless\nĠgel atin\nĠeman ating\nĠAll aah\n98 6\nĠout burst\nĠer as\nĠX VI\nĠSP I\nO tt\nĠLaz arus\nPL IED\nF lying\nblog s\nW isconsin\nR aven\nĠreb ate\nĠcreep s\nĠSp an\nĠPain ter\nĠKir a\nĠAm os\nĠCor vette\nCons umer\nĠRec over\nck i\nĠpes ky\nĠIn vention\nCompan ies\nĠchalleng ers\nad emic\nĠUkrain ians\nĠNeuro log\nĠFors aken\nĠent rants\nĠemb attled\nĠdef unct\nĠGlac ier\nĠpo isons\nĠH orses\nm akes\nĠD irt\nĠ4 23\nhh h\nĠTrans formation\nQUI RE\n................ ..\nĠtrave ller\nĠSe xy\nĠK ern\nip olar\nĠransom ware\noooooooo oooooooo\nE c\nrub y\nProf essional\nĠOut break\narg ument\nG rey\nĠFif a\nĠCH O\nĠFOR M\nĠAm trak\n- [\nĠcr adle\nĠantioxid ants\nãģ®å ®\n7 36\nĠNAS L\nĠContribut ions\nInd iana\nĠST EP\nC SS\nĠsal ient\nĠall ocations\nyr ights\nĠm ashed\nĠCut ter\nSex ual\nĠp ounded\nĠfan base\nĠc asc\nĠTrans parency\nĠanaly tic\nĠSummon er\n× ŀ\nĠAD C\ndet ail\nĠvan quished\nĠcr abs\nar ie\nDest roy\nĠS ack\nĠtrans istor\nAl abama\nĠK oen\nĠFisher ies\nc one\nĠannex ed\nĠM GM\nes a\nĠf aked\nĠCong ratulations\nĠhind ered\nĠcorrection al\nĠI TV\nlee ve\nĠin appropriately\nlic ks\nĠtresp ass\nĠp aws\nĠnegoti ator\nĠChrist ensen\nlim its\nĠDian ne\nĠeleg ance\nĠContract s\nan ke\nOb j\nĠvigil ance\nĠcast les\nĠN AD\nĠHol o\nĠemph atically\nĠTit us\nĠServ ing\nĠRich ie\nĠP igs\n5 68\nĠanim osity\nĠAtt ributes\nĠU riel\nM Q\nmy ra\nĠApplic ant\nĠpsychiat rists\nĠV ij\nĠAb by\nag ree\nP ush\nĠk Wh\nhib a\nĠinc ite\nĠWe asley\nĠTax i\nminist ic\nhy per\nĠF arn\nĠ6 01\nĠNation wide\nF ake\n95 2\nĠma ize\nĠinteract ed\nĠtransition ed\nĠparas itic\nĠharm onic\nĠdec aying\nĠbas eless\nns ics\nĠtrans pired\nĠabund antly\nĠFore nsic\nĠtread mill\nĠJ av\nab and\nĠssh d\nĠfront man\nĠJak arta\noll er\ndro ps\nĠSERV ICES\nrompt u\noph ical\nh ospital\nbled on\n6 45\nĠmid range\nĠEV ENT\ncul ated\nraw led\nĠper ched\nĠover board\nĠPe el\nĠP wr\nĠCar th\nĠCOM PLE\nco e\nsh all\nĠdeter rence\nM ETHOD\nĠAbs ent\nM EN\nĠs ill\nĠLE VEL\nY ork\nĠsin ners\nĠOP EC\nĠN ur\nĠDesign s\nse lection\nĠunw orthy\nCH A\nĠstreng thens\n88 3\ned ly\nĠslic ing\nĠmal nutrition\nĠfilm making\nĠPol k\nur ated\nĠ4 21\nbre akers\n!' \"\nĠwet lands\nĠDisc rimination\nĠallow able\nĠste ered\nĠSic ily\nS AM\nĠmust ache\nĠm ids\nĠcl ipped\nĠcirc ulate\nĠbr ittle\nĠBuild ings\nra ised\nĠRound up\nĠwealth ier\nĠoverw rite\nĠover powered\nĠGerr ard\ns ites\nPD ATED\nĠacute ly\nĠGam ble\nĠp im\nĠK us\nTyp ically\nDe ploy\nĠMoroc can\np otion\ncom be\nĠvigil ante\nĠ36 3\nSt ew\nĠB agg\nĠres ided\nĠSp o\nĠrem nant\nĠempt iness\nbr ainer\nĠout patient\npri ority\nĠle ptin\nĠPay ton\nĠGle aming\nĠS hed\nĠPol o\nĠMormon ism\nrest ricted\narl ane\nw x\nĠcreat ine\nĠAn on\nĠST UD\nĠJ UL\nĠT ee\n5 28\n08 9\nĠhat ched\nDis patch\nĠCompos ite\nĠ45 1\np uff\nĠX COM\nĠOr n\nĠTH ANK\nEND ED\nĠAshe ville\nĠà ľ\nĠman go\nĠS lightly\nworld ly\nĠW ander\nĠExp and\nĠCh r\nM ist\nĠorthodox y\nĠUN ESCO\nreg ate\nElse where\nk ie\nir led\nĠtopp le\nĠadopt ive\nĠLeg s\nd ress\nĠS agan\nb are\nĠGl ou\nCr unch\nĠhelp ers\nĠchron ically\nĠH uma\n1 0000\nĠaccommod ating\näº Ķ\nĠwrink les\nĠdod ged\nfour th\nĠpre con\nĠcompress or\nĠK are\nĠev ict\nĠWar wick\nim ar\nĠmodern ization\nĠband wagon\nĠref uted\nĠnet ted\nĠNa ples\nĠGen ie\nper ors\nĠfield ed\nĠde re\nĠPar ables\nle es\nĠtr out\nasp ers\nĠn ihil\nĠhapp iest\nĠflo ppy\nĠLo ft\nĠHe ard\nĠun ison\nĠl ug\nĠRed mond\nclass ic\nSupp orters\nSH IP\nG MT\nĠfue lled\nç IJ\nĠd d\nĠEmin em\nĠ18 97\nNY SE\nĠsecret aries\nĠF IA\nĠCanaver al\nF avorite\nĠp omp\nĠdetain ee\ners hip\naim on\ni our\nĠA pex\nĠplant ations\nam ia\nac ion\nR ust\nĠtow ed\nĠTru ly\n5 77\nĠshel tered\nr ider\nW o\nĠl air\nĠInt elligent\nimpro ve\nm atically\nĠet iquette\nad ra\nall o\nĠJun o\nany thing\nĠStru ggle\nĠPred ict\nĠGr imes\nĠAMER ICA\nct x\nĠSit 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ates\nTe X\nĠnons ensical\nĠfull back\nĠDe L\nmon key\nh ari\nĠmetabol ites\nĠloot ed\nĠAL WAYS\nĠB CC\nL t\noc het\nB one\nĠveto ed\nĠg cc\nĠCL ICK\nĠ18 88\ns af\nĠstiff ness\nĠlow ly\nĠGe h\nvers on\nors et\nĠun foreseen\nĠan esthesia\nĠOpt ical\nĠrecon structed\nĠT up\nsh ows\nNEW S\nĠNewsp aper\nĠA SA\nter a\nN umbers\nĠinexpl icable\n× ij\nĠhard ness\nunt arily\nĠA cer\ngrad ient\nARD IS\nĠwood land\nĠmetaph ors\nĠWem bley\nĠPa vel\nphil is\nĠre writing\nĠpercept ual\nĠ10 70\nworm s\nĠDown s\nĠunsur prisingly\nĠtag ging\nfl ame\nĠlit res\nĠboun ces\nĠB abe\nsh ut\nĠoverd oses\nĠShe ila\nĠCh au\nĠBl ess\nCapt ure\nĠSign ificant\nĠSc ion\nĠ38 9\nĠMc H\nĠTitan ium\nĠMe al\named a\nag ents\nagg ressive\nB illy\n76 3\nĠS aying\nDER R\nit one\nColl ins\nB ound\nĠbol ted\nĠDM CA\n95 3\nĠun iqueness\nĠep igen\nun ci\nant am\nĠreck oning\nch airs\nOG R\nĠSen egal\nĠ18 62\nre levant\nĠ ¯\nĠpharm acies\nĠG eral\nv ier\nY an\nOR PG\nĠrab id\nb ending\nĠUN ITED\nĠ4 65\nAs sembly\nĠwe ep\nĠbe 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a\nSyn opsis\nĠstun ts\nĠbe ad\nĠstock ing\nĠM ILL\nob ook\nmass ive\n\\ <\nĠh ump\nĠPref erences\nEngine Debug\nge ist\nĠNiet o\nome ver\nish y\neval uate\ncol onial\nAltern ative\nĠGo Pro\nĠV ortex\nĠNET WORK\nans ky\nSec ure\nĠTh rust\nSn ake\nĠparcel s\nĠsam urai\nĠactress es\nN ap\nM F\nifer ation\nBe er\n5 23\nĠI ly\noint ment\nP ing\nĠstri ped\nĠMell on\noss ession\nĠneut ron\nend ium\nĠa ph\nĠFlav oring\nĠ38 3\nĠrespons iveness\nĠJ indal\nĠHitch cock\nDen ver\nĠDRAG ON\nsm anship\nĠDu pl\nĠs ly\nĠweb cam\nĠTw ain\nĠDar ling\nili ate\ncons umer\nD IT\nĠnames ake\nĠun orthodox\nĠfun er\nĠPL oS\nĠCONTR OL\nozy g\nogl obin\nF ACE\nER G\nĠD ia\nĠF iesta\nce le\n0 34\nĠencl ave\nâĸ¬ âĸ¬\non ement\nal ist\nM and\nĠhome grown\nĠF ancy\nĠconcept ions\nĠCont ains\nure en\nĠreiter ate\nĠme ager\nĠinstall ments\nSp awn\n6 27\nĠphot oc\nĠCab rera\nĠRos enthal\nĠLans ing\nis ner\nĠinvest s\nĠUFO s\nEX P\nHard ware\nĠtr agically\nĠconced es\nie ft\nch am\nbor gh\nĠSch r\nĠMel anie\nĠH oy\nĠvisit ation\nĠid iosyncr\nĠfract ions\nĠfore skin\nob os\nĠpo aching\nĠVI EW\nĠstimul ates\nĠG ork\ncan on\nM IC\nĠNem esis\nĠInd ra\nĠDM V\nĠ5 29\nĠinspect ing\nĠgrand ma\nĠW hedon\nĠSh ant\nĠP urg\nik an\nĠT eg\nĠCL R\nz ac\nVict oria\nĠVer ify\nion ics\nĠpart ying\nĠM ou\ncol our\nĠtestim onies\nl ations\nĠpress uring\nhi ro\nac ers\nĠf id\nang ler\nĠCS I\nĠhere after\nĠdiss idents\nreport ing\niph any\nche v\nĠsol itude\nĠl obe\nĠind is\nĠcred ential\nre cent\nad ult\nĠNir vana\nĠFranch ise\nL ayer\nH yp\nĠBerks hire\nĠwill s\nt if\nĠtot em\nĠJud ah\nrep air\nInst ant\n5 48\nĠemb assies\nĠbott leneck\nĠb ount\nĠtyp ew\nĠAl vin\nj ing\nim ilar\nR ush\nĠbr im\nĠHEL P\nA im\n] '\nĠpass ively\nĠbound ed\nĠR ated\nĠcriminal ity\nĠbiom ark\nĠdisp atcher\nĠTow ards\nĠ+ ++\nright eous\nf rog\nĠP anc\nC arter\n0 32\næ© Ł\nĠult raviolet\nĠLic ensed\nĠT ata\nĠBl essing\nĠG AM\nĠchem ically\nĠSe af\nĠRE LE\nĠMerc enary\ncapital ist\nĠform ulations\nĠann ihilation\nĠVer b\nĠAr gon\nĠun loaded\nĠmorp hed\nĠconqu ering\nback er\nI ELD\nĠtheft s\nĠfront runner\nĠRoy ale\nĠFund amental\nel ight\nC hip\nnecess ary\nay n\nĠSl ip\nĠ4 48\ncern ed\nP ause\nĠshock ingly\nĠAB V\nĠcomp osure\n7 33\nĠMotors port\nah ime\nMur ray\nM ach\nĠgr ids\nĠdeb ian\nĠfurther more\nĠdexter ity\nĠCollect ions\nos lov\nil age\nb j\nĠMont eneg\nĠstrut Connector\nĠmassac res\nĠbrief s\nfet ched\nuv ian\nol ition\nFail ure\nemon ic\nĠfl ared\nĠclaim ant\nĠc ures\nĠgive aways\nĠSubst ance\nal ions\nĠcr inge\nĠK ul\nĠarist ocracy\nĠUl ster\nol ated\nh ousing\nĠM IS\nĠgl ared\nĠWil helm\nne eds\nlam bda\nbuild ers\nĠV IS\nĠradi ator\nĠGhost busters\nĠ4 36\nact ual\nĠher ds\nç a\nwatch ing\nĠcounter ing\nCh arge\nĠchar red\nĠwar heads\nĠiod ine\nĠM acy\n04 1\nĠdepart ures\nĠS ins\nĠdy ed\nĠConcept s\ng ado\n7 13\nĠquot ations\nĠg ist\nĠChrist y\nĠant igen\nĠHem p\nĠD rawn\nĠB arg\nez vous\nĠp aternity\nĠar du\nĠAnch orage\nĠR ik\nĠover loaded\nĠUs ername\nĠTam my\nĠN au\nĠCell ular\nĠw aning\nĠrod ent\nĠWor cester\nil ts\nĠT ad\nĠdwell ings\nĠbull ish\n4 31\nĠretali ate\nĠmig raine\nĠChev ron\nCH ECK\nĠdon key\nc rim\nSP A\nĠAn alog\nĠmarqu ee\nĠHa as\nB ir\nĠGD DR\nĠDownload s\nĠwill power\nĠFor th\nĠRecord ed\nĠimp ossibility\nĠLog ged\nĠFr anks\nĠR att\nin itions\nĠclean ers\nĠsore ly\nĠflick ering\nĠEx amination\nc atching\nallow een\nMs g\nĠdun no\nF a\nĠdys ph\nc razy\n.' '.\nĠmain line\nĠc s\nĠp tr\nĠW ally\nig un\n95 1\nĠBig foot\nf ights\nĠretrie ving\nJ r\nĠdupl ication\nĠExpl an\nĠrel ational\nĠqu aint\nĠbisc uits\nĠad o\nĠsh udder\nĠantid ote\nblood ed\nks h\nĠsa uces\nĠrein vest\nĠdispens ary\nĠD iver\nĠ9 000\nstud ent\nĠin separ\nesc ap\nĠtodd lers\nĠGP IO\nĠAss ignment\nhead ers\nĠlack luster\nĠab ack\n95 6\nĠtool bar\n7 45\nĠo ust\nĠcontempl ation\nĠPRES IDENT\nĠ4 58\n==== ==\nĠguarantee ing\nĠHe ist\nĠCann es\nĻ ½\nĠcollabor ator\nĠAm p\nĠg ou\nĠSH ALL\nst ories\n78 3\nĠmobil ized\nĠbro od\nĠL U\nĠðŁ ij\nĠref in\nĠAnthrop ology\nv ind\nill i\nĠwarrant ies\nĠB abel\nĠsw ath\nĠc aches\nĠantagon ists\nart ifacts\nĠhot ly\nĠSt arts\nĠG ö\nz ag\n!! !!!\nĠsc ourge\nĠcons piring\nru its\nre verse\nĠShe en\nĠJes uit\nĠGiov anni\nad ies\nĠbutt ocks\near cher\nac an\nĠvolley ball\nĠshroud ed\nĠscore board\nb ats\nĠI PM\nĠass es\nĠde regulation\nĠTe legram\nĠReb oot\nĠ7 000\nĠCan ary\nĠk ernels\nĠFranç ois\nĠD uff\nĠP on\nĠLe ica\nĠGar min\nĠor phans\nĠClaud ia\nĠcal endars\nĠLe ilan\nent o\nR ocket\nĠbr unch\nĠHaw king\nain ers\nĠsens ibilities\nĠk W\nĠK and\nĠre claimed\nĠinteresting ly\n× ©\nrom y\nJ M\nĠEnhance ment\nb ush\nSk ip\nĠrapp ers\nĠg azing\np edia\nath lon\nRev olution\nĠsn ipers\nĠre verted\nĠconglomer ate\nT erry\n79 4\nĠhars her\nĠdes olate\nĠHit man\nComm ission\nĠ( /\nâĢ¦ .\"\nCom par\nĠampl ification\nom inated\nĠreg ress\nĠColl ider\nĠinform ants\nĠg azed\n" }, { "path": "requirements_full.txt", "content": "absl-py==0.7.0\naiokafka==0.5.2\nalabaster==0.7.12\nalbumentations==0.4.1\nallennlp==0.8.3\naltair==4.0.0\nanaconda-client==1.7.2\nanaconda-navigator==1.9.4\nanaconda-project==0.8.2\nansicolors==1.1.8\napex==0.1\nargh==0.26.2\nasn1crypto==0.24.0\nastor==0.7.1\nastroid==2.1.0\nastropy==3.1\natomicwrites==1.3.0\nattrdict==2.0.1\nattrs==19.1.0\navro-json-serializer==1.0.1\navro-python3==1.8.2\naws-xray-sdk==0.95\nawscli==1.16.135\nBabel==2.6.0\nbackcall==0.1.0\nbackports.os==0.1.1\nbackports.shutil-get-terminal-size==1.0.0\nbackports.weakref==1.0rc1\nbase58==1.0.3\nbcolz==1.2.1\nbcrypt==3.1.4\nbeautifulsoup4==4.6.3\nbert-serving-client==1.8.1\nbert-serving-server==1.8.1\nbert-tensorflow==1.0.1\nbilm==0.1.post5\nbitarray==0.8.3\nbkcharts==0.2\nblaze==0.11.3\nbleach==3.1.4\nblinker==1.4\nblis==0.2.4\nbokeh==1.0.2\nboto==2.49.0\nboto3==1.9.125\nbotocore==1.12.125\nBottleneck==1.2.1\nbs4==0.0.1\nbz2file==0.98\ncachetools==3.0.0\ncatalyst==19.12.2\ncatboost==0.16.2\ncertifi==2019.6.16\ncffi==1.12.2\nchardet==3.0.4\nClick==7.0\ncloudpickle==1.2.2\nclyent==1.2.2\nCMRESHandler==1.0.0\ncollabtools==1.0.75\ncolorama==0.3.9\nconda==4.7.5\nconda-build==3.17.1\nconda-package-handling==1.3.10\nconda-verify==3.1.1\nconfigparser==4.0.2\nconllu==0.11\ncontextlib2==0.5.5\nconvertdate==2.1.3\ncookies==2.2.1\ncrc32c==1.7\ncrcmod==1.7\ncryptography==2.6.1\ncycler==0.10.0\ncymem==2.0.2\nCython==0.29\ncytoolz==0.9.0.1\ndask==1.0.0\ndataclasses==0.6\ndatashape==0.5.4\ndecorator==4.3.0\ndeperson==0.4.8\nDeprecated==1.2.4\ndill==0.2.8.2\ndistributed==1.25.0\ndocker==3.7.2\ndocker-pycreds==0.4.0\ndocopt==0.6.2\ndocutils==0.14\ndopamine-rl==3.0.1\necdsa==0.13.3\neditdistance==0.5.3\nelasticsearch==6.3.1\neli5==0.8.1\nelmoformanylangs==0.0.2\nemoji==0.5.0\nentrypoints==0.2.3\nenum-compat==0.0.3\nephem==3.7.6.0\nerlastic==2.0.0\net-xmlfile==1.0.1\nfalcon==1.4.1\nfastcache==1.0.2\nfastjsonschema==2.13\nfastprogress==0.1.19\nfasttext==0.8.22\nfbprophet==0.5\nfilelock==3.0.10\nflaky==3.5.3\nFlask==1.0.2\nFlask-Cors==3.0.7\nfqn-decorators==1.2.3\nftfy==5.5.1\nfuncy==1.11\nfuture==0.17.1\ngast==0.2.2\ngensim==3.6.0\ngevent==1.4.0\ngin-config==0.3.0\ngitdb2==2.0.4\nGitPython==2.1.11\ngiturlparse==0.9.2\nglob2==0.6\ngmpy2==2.0.8\ngoogle-api-python-client==1.7.7\ngoogle-auth==1.10.0\ngoogle-auth-httplib2==0.0.3\ngoogle-auth-oauthlib==0.4.1\ngoogle-pasta==0.1.7\ngoogleapis-common-protos==1.6.0\ngoogletrans==2.4.0\nGPUtil==1.4.0\ngql==0.1.0\ngraphql-core==2.2.1\ngraphviz==0.10.1\ngreenlet==0.4.15\ngrpcio==1.26.0\ngunicorn==20.0.4\ngym==0.15.3\nh5py==2.9.0\nheapdict==1.0.0\nholidays==0.9.11\nhtml5lib==0.9999999\nhttplib2==0.12.0\nhyperopt==0.1.1\nidna==2.8\nimageio==2.4.1\nimagesize==1.1.0\nimgaug==0.2.6\nimportlib-metadata==0.6\nipykernel==5.1.0\nipython==7.6.0\nipython-genutils==0.2.0\nipywidgets==7.4.2\nisort==4.3.4\nisoweek==1.3.3\niterative-stratification==0.1.6\nitsdangerous==1.1.0\nJayDeBeApi==1.1.1\njdcal==1.4\njedi==0.13.1\njeepney==0.4\nJinja2==2.10\njmespath==0.9.4\njoblib==0.13.2\nJPype1==0.6.3\njsondiff==1.1.1\njsonnet==0.12.1\njsonpickle==1.1\njsonschema==2.6.0\njupyter==1.0.0\njupyter-client==5.2.3\njupyter-console==6.0.0\njupyter-contrib-core==0.3.3\njupyter-contrib-nbextensions==0.5.1\njupyter-core==4.4.0\njupyter-highlight-selected-word==0.2.0\njupyter-latex-envs==1.4.6\njupyter-nbextensions-configurator==0.4.1\njupyterlab==0.35.3\njupyterlab-launcher==0.13.1\njupyterlab-server==0.2.0\nkafka-python==1.4.6\nkaggle==1.5.1.1\nKeras==2.3.1\nKeras-Applications==1.0.8\nKeras-Preprocessing==1.1.0\nkeyring==16.1.1\nkfac==0.2.0\nkiwisolver==1.0.1\nkpnmoses==2.2.6\nlangdetect==1.0.7\nlazy-object-proxy==1.3.1\nlibarchive-c==2.8\nlibsixel-python==0.5.0\nlief==0.9.0\nlightgbm==2.2.4\nllvmlite==0.26.0\nlocket==0.2.0\nlunardate==0.2.0\nlxml==4.2.5\nlz4==2.2.1\nmag==0.1\nMarkdown==3.0.1\nMarkupSafe==1.1.1\nmatplotlib==3.1.0\nmccabe==0.6.1\nmesh-tensorflow==0.1.9\nmistune==0.8.4\nmkl-fft==1.0.10\nmkl-random==1.0.2\nmock==2.0.0\nmodelFactoryPy==3.0.1\nmore-itertools==7.0.0\nmoto==1.3.7\nmpld3==0.3\nmpmath==1.0.0\nmsgpack==0.5.6\nmsgpack-numpy==0.4.3.2\nMulticoreTSNE==0.1\nmultidict==4.5.2\nmultipledispatch==0.6.0\nmurmurhash==0.28.0\nnatural-questions==1.0.4\nnavigator-updater==0.2.1\nnb-conda==2.2.1\nnb-conda-kernels==2.2.0\nnbconvert==5.3.1\nnbformat==4.4.0\nnetworkx==2.2\nnltk==3.4.5\nnose==1.3.7\nnotebook==5.7.8\nnumba==0.41.0\nnumexpr==2.6.9\nnumpy==1.18.1\nnumpydoc==0.8.0\nnvidia-ml-py3==7.352.0\noauth2client==4.1.3\noauthlib==3.1.0\nodo==0.5.1\nolefile==0.46\nopencv-python==4.1.1.26\nopenpyxl==2.5.11\nopt-einsum==3.1.0\noverrides==1.9\npackaging==19.0\npanda==0.3.1\npandas==1.0.1\npandas-summary==0.0.6\npandocfilters==1.4.2\nparamiko==2.4.2\nparsimonious==0.8.1\nparso==0.3.1\npartd==0.3.9\npath.py==11.5.0\npathlib2==2.3.2\npathtools==0.1.2\npatsy==0.5.1\npbr==5.1.3\npep8==1.7.1\npexpect==4.6.0\npickleshare==0.7.5\nPillow==7.0.0\npipenv==2018.11.26\npipreqs==0.4.10\npke==1.8\npkginfo==1.4.2\npkgsettings==0.12.0\nplac==0.9.6\nplotly==4.2.0\npluggy==0.9.0\nply==3.11\nportalocker==1.5.2\nportpicker==1.2.0\nPoutyne==0.6\npreshed==2.0.1\nprometheus-client==0.4.2\npromise==2.2.1\nprompt-toolkit==2.0.7\nprotobuf==3.11.3\npsutil==5.6.6\nptyprocess==0.6.0\npy==1.8.0\npyaml==18.11.0\npyarrow==0.15.0\npyasn1==0.4.5\npyasn1-modules==0.2.3\npybind11==2.2.3\npycodestyle==2.4.0\npycosat==0.6.3\npycparser==2.19\npycrypto==2.6.1\npycryptodome==3.8.0\npycurl==7.43.0.2\npydantic==0.18.2\npydot==1.4.1\npydotplus==2.0.2\nPyDrive==1.3.1\npyflakes==2.1.1\npyglet==1.3.2\nPygments==2.3.1\npyhocon==0.3.51\npylint==2.2.2\npymongo==3.7.2\nPyNaCl==1.3.0\npyodbc==4.0.24\npyOpenSSL==18.0.0\npyparsing==2.3.1\npypng==0.0.20\nPySocks==1.6.8\npyspellchecker==0.2.2\npystan==2.19.0.0\npytest==4.4.0\npytest-arraydiff==0.2\npytest-astropy==0.4.0\npytest-doctestplus==0.2.0\npytest-openfiles==0.3.1\npytest-remotedata==0.3.1\npython-dateutil==2.8.0\npython-jose==2.0.2\npython-mimeparse==1.6.0\npython-slugify==1.2.6\npytorch-pretrained-bert==0.6.1\npytorch-pretrained-biggan==0.1.1\npytorch-transformers==1.2.0\nPyTorchHelperBot==0.0.4\npytz==2018.9\nPyWavelets==1.0.1\nPyYAML==5.1\npyzmq==17.1.2\nQtAwesome==0.5.3\nqtconsole==4.4.2\nQtPy==1.5.2\nrake-nltk==1.0.4\nredis==3.3.11\nregex==2018.1.10\nrequests==2.21.0\nrequests-oauthlib==1.3.0\nresponses==0.10.6\nretrying==1.3.3\nrope==0.11.0\nrsa==3.4.2\nruamel-yaml==0.15.46\nRx==1.6.1\ns3transfer==0.2.0\nsacrebleu==1.4.3\nsacremoses==0.0.35\nsafitty==1.3\nscikit-image==0.15.0\nscikit-learn==0.22.1\nscikit-plot==0.3.7\nscipy==1.4.1\nseaborn==0.9.0\nSecretStorage==3.1.0\nsegtok==1.5.7\nSend2Trash==1.5.0\nsentencepiece==0.1.8\nsentry-sdk==0.13.0\nsetuptools-git==1.2\nshortuuid==0.5.0\nsimplegeneric==0.8.1\nsingledispatch==3.4.0.3\nsix==1.12.0\nsklearn==0.0\nsklearn-pandas==1.8.0\nsmart-open==1.7.1\nsmmap2==2.0.4\nsnowballstemmer==1.2.1\nsortedcollections==1.0.1\nsortedcontainers==2.1.0\nspacy==2.1.7\nSphinx==2.0.0\nsphinxcontrib-applehelp==1.0.1\nsphinxcontrib-devhelp==1.0.1\nsphinxcontrib-htmlhelp==1.0.1\nsphinxcontrib-jsmath==1.0.1\nsphinxcontrib-qthelp==1.0.2\nsphinxcontrib-serializinghtml==1.1.1\nsphinxcontrib-websupport==1.1.0\nspyder==3.3.2\nspyder-kernels==0.3.0\nSQLAlchemy==1.2.14\nsqlalchemy-teradata==0.9.0.dev0\nsqlitedict==1.6.0\nsqlparse==0.3.0\nsrsly==0.0.7\nstanfordnlp==0.1.1\nstatsmodels==0.9.0\nstop-words==2018.7.23\nstreamlit==0.52.2\nsubprocess32==3.5.4\nsympy==1.3\ntables==3.4.4\ntabulate==0.8.2\ntb-nightly==1.14.0a20190603\ntblib==1.3.2\ntensor2tensor==1.15.2\ntensorboard==1.13.1\ntensorboardX==1.9\ntensorflow==2.1.0\ntensorflow-datasets==1.3.2\ntensorflow-estimator==1.13.0\ntensorflow-gan==2.0.0\ntensorflow-gpu==1.15.2\ntensorflow-hub==0.2.0\ntensorflow-metadata==0.21.0\ntensorflow-probability==0.7.0\nteradata==15.10.0.21\ntermcolor==1.1.0\nterminado==0.8.1\ntestpath==0.4.2\ntf-estimator-nightly==1.14.0.dev2019060501\nthinc==7.0.8\ntifffile==2019.7.26\ntimeexecution==4.1.1\ntoml==0.10.0\ntoolz==0.9.0\ntorch==1.4.0\ntorchtext==0.3.1\ntornado==5.1.1\ntqdm==4.24.0\ntraitlets==4.3.2\ntransformers==2.3.0\ntyped-ast==1.1.0\ntyping==3.6.4\ntzlocal==2.0.0\nujson==1.35\nunicodecsv==0.14.1\nUnidecode==1.0.23\nuritemplate==3.0.0\nurllib3==1.24.2\nvalidators==0.14.1\nvirtualenv-clone==0.5.3\nwandb==0.8.14\nwasabi==0.2.1\nwatchdog==0.9.0\nwatermark==1.7.0\nwcwidth==0.1.7\nwebencodings==0.5.1\nwebsocket-client==0.56.0\nWerkzeug==0.15.3\nwget==3.2\nwidgetsnbextension==3.4.2\nword2number==1.1\nwrapt==1.11.2\nwurlitzer==1.0.2\nxgboost==0.81\nxlrd==1.1.0\nXlsxWriter==1.1.2\nxlwt==1.3.0\nxmltodict==0.12.0\nyapf==0.28.0\nyarg==0.1.9\nyarl==1.1.1\nzict==0.1.3\n" }, { "path": "requirements_minimal.txt", "content": "numpy==1.18.1\nfasttext==0.9.1\npytorch_transformers==1.2.0\npathlib2==2.3.5\nPoutyne==0.6\nrequests==2.22.0\ntorch==1.2.0\ntqdm==4.42.1\ntransformers==2.4.1\nwget==3.2\nscipy==1.4.1\npytest==5.3.5\npandas==1.0.0\nbeautifulsoup4==4.8.2\nbert==2.2.0\nfairseq==0.9.0\nlosswise==3.9\nscikit_learn==0.22.1\ntensorflow==2.1.0\n" }, { "path": "step11_final/blending_n_postprocessing.py", "content": "from collections import Counter\nimport numpy as np\nimport pandas as pd\nfrom pathlib2 import Path\n\nPATH_TO_DATA = Path(\"input/google-quest-challenge/\")\nPATH_TO_SUBMISSIONS = Path(\"submissions\")\n\n# Reading the 30 target columns that we need to predict\n\nsample_submission_df = pd.read_csv(\n PATH_TO_DATA / \"sample_submission.csv\", index_col=\"qa_id\"\n)\ntarget_columns = sample_submission_df.columns\n\ntrain_df = pd.read_csv(PATH_TO_DATA / \"train.csv\")\n\n# Reading submission files\n\nmodel1_pred_df = pd.read_csv(PATH_TO_SUBMISSIONS / \"model1_submission.csv\")\nmodel2_pred_df = pd.read_csv(PATH_TO_SUBMISSIONS / \"model2_bert_base_cased_pred.csv\")\nmodel4_pred_df = pd.read_csv(PATH_TO_SUBMISSIONS / \"model4_bart_large_pred.csv\")\n\n# For RoBERTa, we average predictions from 5 folds\n\nroberta_base_dfs = [\n pd.read_csv(\n PATH_TO_SUBMISSIONS / \"model3_roberta-base-output\" / \"fold-{}.csv\".format(fold)\n )\n for fold in range(5)\n]\n\nmodel3_pred_df = roberta_base_dfs[0].copy()\n\nfor col in target_columns:\n model3_pred_df[col] = np.mean([df[col] for df in roberta_base_dfs], axis=0)\n\n# Blending\n\nblended_df = model3_pred_df.copy()\n\nfor col in target_columns:\n blended_df[col] = (\n model1_pred_df[col] * 0.1\n + model2_pred_df[col] * 0.2\n + model3_pred_df[col] * 0.1\n + model4_pred_df[col] * 0.3\n )\n\n\n# Applying postprocessing to the final blend\ndef postprocess_single(target, ref):\n \"\"\"\n The idea here is to make the distribution of a particular predicted column\n to match the correspoding distribution of the corresponding column in the\n training dataset (called ref here)\n \"\"\"\n\n ids = np.argsort(target)\n counts = sorted(Counter(ref).items(), key=lambda s: s[0])\n scores = np.zeros_like(target)\n\n last_pos = 0\n v = 0\n\n for value, count in counts:\n next_pos = last_pos + int(round(count / len(ref) * len(target)))\n if next_pos == last_pos:\n next_pos += 1\n\n cond = ids[last_pos:next_pos]\n scores[cond] = v\n last_pos = next_pos\n v += 1\n\n return scores / scores.max()\n\n\ndef postprocess_prediction(prediction, actual):\n postprocessed = prediction.copy()\n\n for col in target_columns:\n scores = postprocess_single(prediction[col].values, actual[col].values)\n # Those are columns where our postprocessing gave substantial improvement.\n # It also helped for some others, but we didn't include them as the gain was\n # very marginal (less than 0.01)\n if col in (\n \"question_conversational\",\n \"question_type_compare\",\n \"question_type_definition\",\n \"question_type_entity\",\n \"question_has_commonly_accepted_answer\",\n \"question_type_consequence\",\n \"question_type_spelling\",\n ):\n postprocessed[col] = scores\n\n # scale to 0-1 interval\n v = postprocessed[col].values\n postprocessed[col] = (v - v.min()) / (v.max() - v.min())\n\n return postprocessed\n\n\npostprocessed = postprocess_prediction(blended_df, train_df)\n\n# Saving the submission file\n\npostprocessed.to_csv(PATH_TO_SUBMISSIONS / \"submission.csv\", index=False)\n" }, { "path": "step1_lm_finetuning/callbacks.py", "content": "from poutyne.framework.callbacks import Callback, CSVLogger\n\n\nclass LosswiseSessionHandler:\n def __init__(self, api_key, tag=\"\", params=None):\n import losswise\n\n losswise.set_api_key(api_key)\n self._session = losswise.Session(\n tag=tag, params=params if params is not None else {}, track_git=False\n )\n self._graphs = dict()\n\n def create_graph(\n self, graph_name, xlabel=\"\", ylabel=\"\", kind=None, display_interval=1\n ):\n assert isinstance(graph_name, str)\n if graph_name not in self._graphs:\n self._graphs[graph_name] = self._session.graph(\n title=graph_name,\n xlabel=xlabel,\n ylabel=ylabel,\n kind=kind,\n display_interval=display_interval,\n )\n return self._graphs[graph_name]\n\n def __getitem__(self, graph_name):\n if graph_name not in self._graphs:\n self.create_graph(graph_name)\n return self._graphs[graph_name]\n\n def done(self):\n self._session.done()\n\n\nclass LosswiseCallback(Callback):\n def __init__(\n self,\n api_key: str = None,\n losswise_session: LosswiseSessionHandler = None,\n prefix=\"\",\n tag=\"my awesome DL\",\n period=1,\n keep_open=False,\n training_params=None,\n param_groups=dict(),\n ):\n super().__init__()\n assert (api_key is None) ^ (losswise_session is None)\n\n if losswise_session is None:\n self._session = LosswiseSessionHandler(\n api_key, tag=tag, params=training_params\n )\n else:\n self._session = losswise_session\n self._keep_open = keep_open\n self.period = period\n self.prefix = prefix\n self.param_groups = param_groups\n self.steps_elapsed = 0\n\n def on_train_begin(self, logs):\n self.metrics = [\"loss\"] + self.model.metrics_names\n\n self._session.create_graph(\"loss\", xlabel=\"epoch\", kind=\"min\")\n self._session.create_graph(\"learning rate\", xlabel=\"batch\")\n for name in self.model.metrics_names:\n self._session.create_graph(name, xlabel=\"epoch\")\n self._session.create_graph(\n name + \"_iter\", xlabel=\"batch\", display_interval=self.params[\"steps\"]\n )\n for name in self.param_groups:\n self._session.create_graph(name, xlabel=\"epoch\")\n\n def on_train_end(self, logs):\n if not self._keep_open:\n self._session.done()\n\n def on_epoch_end(self, epoch, logs):\n for name in self.metrics:\n graph_args = dict()\n if name in logs:\n graph_args[self.prefix + name] = logs[name]\n if \"val_\" + name in logs:\n graph_args[self.prefix + \"val_\" + name] = logs[\"val_\" + name]\n self._session[name].append(epoch, graph_args)\n\n for group, names in self.param_groups.items():\n for name in names:\n graph_args = dict()\n if name in logs:\n graph_args[self.prefix + name] = logs[name]\n if \"val_\" + name in logs:\n graph_args[self.prefix + \"val_\" + name] = logs[\"val_\" + name]\n self._session[group].append(epoch, graph_args)\n\n def on_batch_end(self, batch, logs):\n self.steps_elapsed += 1\n if self.steps_elapsed % self.period == 0:\n for name in self.metrics:\n if name in logs:\n self._session[name + \"_iter\"].append(\n self.steps_elapsed, {self.prefix + name: logs[name]}\n )\n\n if hasattr(self.model.optimizer, \"get_lr\"):\n learning_rates = [self.model.optimizer.get_lr()[0]]\n else:\n learning_rates = (\n param_group[\"lr\"]\n for param_group in self.model.optimizer.param_groups\n )\n for group_idx, lr in enumerate(learning_rates):\n self._session[\"learning rate\"].append(\n self.steps_elapsed, {\"lr_param_group_\" + str(group_idx): lr}\n )\n\n\nclass CSVParamLogger(CSVLogger):\n def __init__(\n self,\n filename,\n *,\n batch_granularity=False,\n separator=\",\",\n append=False,\n extra_metrics=[]\n ):\n super(CSVParamLogger, self).__init__(\n filename,\n batch_granularity=batch_granularity,\n separator=separator,\n append=append,\n )\n self.extra_metrics = extra_metrics\n\n def on_train_begin(self, logs):\n metrics = [\"loss\"] + self.model.metrics_names\n\n if self.batch_granularity:\n self.fieldnames = [\"epoch\", \"batch\", \"size\", \"time\", \"lr\"]\n else:\n self.fieldnames = [\"epoch\", \"time\", \"lr\"]\n self.fieldnames += metrics\n self.fieldnames += [\"val_\" + metric for metric in metrics]\n self.fieldnames += self.extra_metrics\n self._on_train_begin_write(logs)\n" }, { "path": "step1_lm_finetuning/data/__init__.py", "content": "from .dataset import *\nfrom .sampler import *\n" }, { "path": "step1_lm_finetuning/data/augmentation/__init__.py", "content": "from .tokenization import *\n" }, { "path": "step1_lm_finetuning/data/augmentation/tokenization.py", "content": "import numpy as np\nfrom typing import List\nfrom transformers import BertTokenizer\n\n\nclass BertRandomTokenizer(BertTokenizer):\n def __init__(\n self,\n vocab_file,\n lower_case_prob=1.0,\n basic_tokenize_prob=1.0,\n piece_split_prob=0.0,\n recursive=False,\n **kwargs\n ):\n super(BertRandomTokenizer, self).__init__(\n vocab_file,\n do_lower_case=lower_case_prob > 0,\n do_basic_tokenize=True,\n **kwargs\n )\n self.lower_case_prob = lower_case_prob\n self.basic_tokenize_prob = basic_tokenize_prob\n self.piece_split_prob = piece_split_prob\n self.recursive = recursive\n\n def _split_word_piece(self, token: str) -> List[str]:\n if token in self.all_special_tokens:\n return [token]\n\n token_id = self.wordpiece_tokenizer.vocab.pop(token)\n pieces = self.wordpiece_tokenizer.tokenize(token)\n self.wordpiece_tokenizer.vocab[token] = token_id\n\n if self.unk_token not in pieces and len(pieces) > 0:\n return pieces\n else:\n return [token]\n\n def _tokenize(self, text):\n self.basic_tokenizer.do_lower_case = (\n np.random.uniform(0, 1) <= self.lower_case_prob\n )\n self.do_basic_tokenize = np.random.uniform(0, 1) <= self.basic_tokenize_prob\n\n def unroll(token_list):\n tokens = []\n for item in token_list:\n if not isinstance(item, list):\n tokens.append(item)\n else:\n tokens += item\n return tokens\n\n tokens = super(BertRandomTokenizer, self)._tokenize(text)\n\n current_pos = 0\n while current_pos < len(tokens):\n if np.random.uniform(0, 1) <= self.piece_split_prob:\n tokens[current_pos] = self._split_word_piece(tokens[current_pos])\n if self.recursive:\n tokens = unroll(tokens)\n current_pos += 1\n\n tokens = unroll(tokens)\n return tokens\n" }, { "path": "step1_lm_finetuning/data/config.json", "content": "{\"output_attentions\": false, \"output_hidden_states\": false, \"output_past\": true, \"torchscript\": false, \"use_bfloat16\": false, \"pruned_heads\": {}, \"is_decoder\": false, \"finetuning_task\": null, \"num_labels\": 2, \"vocab_size\": 110000, \"hidden_size\": 768, \"num_hidden_layers\": 12, \"num_attention_heads\": 12, \"hidden_act\": \"gelu\", \"intermediate_size\": 3072, \"hidden_dropout_prob\": 0.1, \"attention_probs_dropout_prob\": 0.1, \"max_position_embeddings\": 512, \"type_vocab_size\": 2, \"initializer_range\": 0.02, \"layer_norm_eps\": 1e-12}" }, { "path": "step1_lm_finetuning/data/dataset.py", "content": "from torch.utils.data import Dataset\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nfrom typing import List, Text\nfrom transformers import PreTrainedTokenizer\n\nEASY_QUESTION_TARGETS = [\n \"question_conversational\",\n \"question_has_commonly_accepted_answer\",\n \"question_type_entity\",\n \"question_opinion_seeking\",\n \"question_interestingness_self\",\n \"question_well_written\",\n \"question_multi_intent\",\n \"question_body_critical\",\n \"question_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"question_type_choice\",\n \"question_type_instructions\",\n]\nEASY_ANSWER_TARGETS = [\n \"answer_type_instructions\",\n \"answer_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"answer_level_of_information\",\n]\nHARD_QUESTION_TARGETS = [\n \"question_type_spelling\",\n \"question_not_really_a_question\",\n \"question_type_consequence\",\n \"question_expect_short_answer\",\n \"question_type_compare\",\n \"question_type_procedure\",\n \"question_type_definition\",\n \"question_interestingness_others\",\n \"question_fact_seeking\",\n \"question_asker_intent_understanding\",\n]\nHARD_ANSWER_TARGETS = [\n \"answer_helpful\",\n \"answer_type_procedure\",\n \"answer_satisfaction\",\n \"answer_plausible\",\n \"answer_well_written\",\n \"answer_relevance\",\n]\nQUESTION_TARGETS = [\n \"question_asker_intent_understanding\",\n \"question_body_critical\",\n \"question_conversational\",\n \"question_expect_short_answer\",\n \"question_fact_seeking\",\n \"question_has_commonly_accepted_answer\",\n \"question_interestingness_others\",\n \"question_interestingness_self\",\n \"question_multi_intent\",\n \"question_not_really_a_question\",\n \"question_opinion_seeking\",\n \"question_type_choice\",\n \"question_type_compare\",\n \"question_type_consequence\",\n \"question_type_definition\",\n \"question_type_entity\",\n \"question_type_instructions\",\n \"question_type_procedure\",\n \"question_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"question_type_spelling\",\n \"question_well_written\",\n]\nANSWER_TARGETS = [\n \"answer_helpful\",\n \"answer_level_of_information\",\n \"answer_plausible\",\n \"answer_relevance\",\n \"answer_satisfaction\",\n \"answer_type_instructions\",\n \"answer_type_procedure\",\n \"answer_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"answer_well_written\",\n]\nALL_TARGETS = QUESTION_TARGETS + ANSWER_TARGETS\n\n\nclass QuestDataset(Dataset):\n def __init__(\n self,\n data_df,\n tokenizer,\n max_seg_length=256,\n target_cols=\"all_targets\",\n answer_ratio=0.5,\n title_ratio=0.5,\n use_title=True,\n use_body=True,\n use_answer=True,\n title_col=\"question_title\",\n body_col=\"question_body\",\n answer_col=\"answer\",\n title_transform=None,\n body_transform=None,\n answer_transform=None,\n ):\n self.tokenizer: PreTrainedTokenizer = tokenizer\n self.max_seg_length = max_seg_length\n self.target_cols = (\n QUESTION_TARGETS + ANSWER_TARGETS\n if target_cols is \"all_targets\"\n else target_cols\n )\n self.answer_ratio = answer_ratio\n self.title_ratio = title_ratio\n\n if target_cols is not None:\n if target_cols is \"all_targets\":\n target_cols = ALL_TARGETS\n self.targets = data_df[target_cols].values\n\n self.question_title = data_df[title_col].values if use_title else None\n self.question_body = data_df[body_col].values if use_body else None\n self.answer = data_df[answer_col].values if use_answer else None\n\n self.title_transform = title_transform\n self.body_transform = body_transform\n self.answer_transform = answer_transform\n\n def _encode_segments(self, *text_segments: List[Text]) -> List[List[int]]:\n # if self.transform is not None:\n # text_segments = [self.transform(txt) for txt in text_segments]\n return [\n self.tokenizer.encode(\n txt, max_length=self.max_seg_length, add_special_tokens=False\n )\n if txt is not None\n else []\n for txt in text_segments\n ]\n\n def _process(self, title=None, body=None, answer=None):\n input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids = self._prepare_features(\n title, body, answer\n )\n\n input_ids = self._pad_and_truncate(\n input_ids, pad_value=self.tokenizer.pad_token_id\n )\n token_type_ids = self._pad_and_truncate(\n token_type_ids, pad_value=token_type_ids[-1]\n )\n attention_mask = self._pad_and_truncate(attention_mask, pad_value=0)\n return input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids\n\n def _pad_and_truncate(self, features, pad_value=0):\n features = list(features[: self.max_seg_length])\n features = features + [pad_value,] * (self.max_seg_length - len(features))\n features = np.array(features)\n return features\n\n @staticmethod\n def _balance_segments(\n first_segment_length, second_segment_length, second_ratio, max_length\n ):\n first_segment_length = min(\n first_segment_length,\n (1 - second_ratio) * max_length\n + max(second_ratio * max_length - second_segment_length, 0),\n )\n\n second_segment_length = min(\n second_segment_length,\n second_ratio * max_length\n + max((1 - second_ratio) * max_length - first_segment_length, 0),\n )\n\n return int(first_segment_length), int(second_segment_length)\n\n def _prepare_features(self, title, body, answer):\n title_input_ids, body_input_ids, answer_input_ids = self._encode_segments(\n title, body, answer\n )\n\n title_length = len(title_input_ids)\n body_length = len(body_input_ids)\n answer_length = len(answer_input_ids)\n\n question_length, answer_length = self._balance_segments(\n title_length + body_length,\n answer_length,\n self.answer_ratio,\n self.max_seg_length,\n )\n\n title_length, body_length = self._balance_segments(\n title_length, body_length, self.title_ratio, question_length\n )\n\n # TODO: generalize this\n question_input_ids = body_input_ids[:body_length]\n if title_length > 0:\n question_input_ids = (\n title_input_ids[:title_length]\n + [self.tokenizer.sep_token_id]\n + question_input_ids\n )\n answer_input_ids = answer_input_ids[:answer_length]\n\n input_ids = self.tokenizer.build_inputs_with_special_tokens(\n question_input_ids, answer_input_ids if answer_length > 0 else None\n )\n token_type_ids = self.tokenizer.create_token_type_ids_from_sequences(\n question_input_ids, answer_input_ids\n )\n attention_mask = [1.0] * len(input_ids)\n\n return input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids\n\n def _get_text(self, index):\n title = self.question_title[index] if self.question_title is not None else None\n body = self.question_body[index] if self.question_body is not None else None\n answer = self.answer[index] if self.answer is not None else None\n\n def apply_transform(txt, transform):\n if transform is not None:\n return transform(txt, idx=index)\n else:\n return txt\n\n title, body, answer = [\n apply_transform(txt, transform)\n for txt, transform in zip(\n [title, body, answer],\n [self.title_transform, self.body_transform, self.answer_transform],\n )\n ]\n\n return title, body, answer\n\n def __getitem__(self, index):\n title, body, answer = self._get_text(index)\n\n input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids = self._process(title, body, answer)\n targets = self.targets[index]\n\n input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids = map(\n torch.LongTensor, [input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids]\n )\n targets = torch.FloatTensor(targets)\n\n return (input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids), targets\n\n def __len__(self):\n if self.answer is not None:\n return len(self.answer)\n elif self.question_title is not None:\n return len(self.question_title)\n else:\n return len(self.question_body)\n\n\nclass TestQuestDataset(QuestDataset):\n def __init__(\n self,\n data_df,\n tokenizer,\n max_seg_length=256,\n answer_ratio=0.5,\n title_ratio=0.5,\n use_title=True,\n use_body=True,\n use_answer=True,\n title_col=\"question_title\",\n body_col=\"question_body\",\n answer_col=\"answer\",\n ):\n super(TestQuestDataset, self).__init__(\n data_df=data_df,\n tokenizer=tokenizer,\n max_seg_length=max_seg_length,\n target_cols=None,\n answer_ratio=answer_ratio,\n title_ratio=title_ratio,\n use_title=use_title,\n use_body=use_body,\n use_answer=use_answer,\n title_col=title_col,\n body_col=body_col,\n answer_col=answer_col,\n )\n\n def __getitem__(self, index):\n title, body, answer = self._get_text(index)\n\n input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids = self._process(title, body, answer)\n input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids = map(\n torch.LongTensor, [input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids]\n )\n return (input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids)\n\n\nclass QuestSiameseDataset(QuestDataset):\n def __getitem__(self, index):\n title, body, answer = self._get_text(index)\n\n input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids = self._process(\n title=title, body=body\n )\n question_inputs = list(\n map(torch.LongTensor, [input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids])\n )\n\n input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids = self._process(body=answer)\n answer_inputs = list(\n map(torch.LongTensor, [input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids])\n )\n\n targets = self.targets[index]\n targets = torch.FloatTensor(targets)\n\n return (question_inputs, answer_inputs), targets\n" }, { "path": "step1_lm_finetuning/data/folds.csv", "content": "row_id,qa_id,fold\n0,0,1\n1,1,1\n2,2,4\n3,3,3\n4,5,1\n5,6,3\n6,7,4\n7,9,1\n8,11,2\n9,12,4\n10,14,2\n11,15,3\n12,16,0\n13,17,1\n14,18,1\n15,19,0\n16,22,1\n17,23,2\n18,24,3\n19,25,0\n20,27,2\n21,29,2\n22,30,1\n23,31,1\n24,32,4\n25,33,0\n26,36,1\n27,38,2\n28,40,0\n29,41,0\n30,47,1\n31,48,2\n32,50,2\n33,51,4\n34,52,4\n35,54,1\n36,55,2\n37,56,0\n38,58,4\n39,59,0\n40,60,3\n41,61,3\n42,63,4\n43,64,2\n44,65,3\n45,68,1\n46,71,3\n47,72,0\n48,74,3\n49,75,2\n50,77,0\n51,78,1\n52,79,4\n53,80,4\n54,81,4\n55,82,0\n56,83,3\n57,87,0\n58,88,0\n59,91,3\n60,92,1\n61,95,4\n62,96,2\n63,97,1\n64,98,3\n65,99,1\n66,104,2\n67,105,4\n68,108,3\n69,109,3\n70,110,1\n71,111,4\n72,112,0\n73,115,1\n74,117,4\n75,118,0\n76,119,4\n77,121,2\n78,127,3\n79,128,2\n80,129,3\n81,131,2\n82,135,2\n83,138,4\n84,139,3\n85,141,1\n86,143,4\n87,144,2\n88,145,0\n89,148,0\n90,149,0\n91,151,0\n92,152,1\n93,154,1\n94,155,0\n95,156,2\n96,157,2\n97,158,0\n98,160,3\n99,162,0\n100,163,0\n101,164,2\n102,168,2\n103,169,1\n104,170,4\n105,171,3\n106,174,1\n107,175,0\n108,176,3\n109,177,4\n110,178,1\n111,180,4\n112,181,4\n113,182,4\n114,183,0\n115,184,1\n116,185,1\n117,186,0\n118,187,1\n119,188,3\n120,191,4\n121,192,1\n122,193,2\n123,194,4\n124,196,3\n125,198,2\n126,201,3\n127,202,3\n128,203,4\n129,204,0\n130,207,4\n131,210,1\n132,211,2\n133,213,2\n134,214,2\n135,215,3\n136,216,4\n137,217,1\n138,219,3\n139,222,1\n140,223,2\n141,224,3\n142,226,3\n143,227,2\n144,229,0\n145,230,0\n146,231,1\n147,233,4\n148,234,0\n149,236,4\n150,238,3\n151,239,1\n152,240,3\n153,241,3\n154,242,1\n155,243,1\n156,247,2\n157,248,1\n158,249,0\n159,250,4\n160,253,2\n161,254,4\n162,256,0\n163,259,3\n164,261,1\n165,262,2\n166,263,1\n167,264,1\n168,265,4\n169,266,1\n170,268,3\n171,269,0\n172,270,4\n173,271,0\n174,272,2\n175,273,2\n176,274,4\n177,276,0\n178,277,1\n179,279,4\n180,280,3\n181,283,1\n182,285,3\n183,286,1\n184,287,0\n185,288,2\n186,294,0\n187,298,0\n188,302,4\n189,303,3\n190,304,1\n191,305,0\n192,306,0\n193,308,3\n194,309,1\n195,311,3\n196,313,1\n197,317,0\n198,319,1\n199,320,4\n200,321,2\n201,324,1\n202,325,4\n203,326,1\n204,328,2\n205,329,2\n206,330,0\n207,331,0\n208,332,2\n209,333,1\n210,335,0\n211,337,4\n212,339,2\n213,341,4\n214,345,0\n215,346,4\n216,347,0\n217,348,2\n218,350,4\n219,351,4\n220,352,3\n221,353,3\n222,354,0\n223,355,1\n224,358,2\n225,359,4\n226,363,4\n227,364,0\n228,365,3\n229,366,3\n230,367,2\n231,368,1\n232,369,4\n233,370,3\n234,372,0\n235,377,3\n236,378,0\n237,380,0\n238,383,0\n239,384,4\n240,385,1\n241,386,3\n242,388,0\n243,389,0\n244,392,4\n245,393,2\n246,396,3\n247,398,2\n248,400,2\n249,402,3\n250,404,0\n251,405,3\n252,406,1\n253,409,2\n254,410,2\n255,412,4\n256,413,1\n257,415,1\n258,419,2\n259,420,0\n260,422,2\n261,424,1\n262,425,1\n263,426,4\n264,428,4\n265,430,2\n266,431,4\n267,433,3\n268,434,3\n269,435,3\n270,436,3\n271,437,1\n272,438,2\n273,439,2\n274,440,3\n275,441,0\n276,442,1\n277,446,1\n278,447,0\n279,450,4\n280,452,0\n281,453,0\n282,454,4\n283,456,3\n284,459,4\n285,460,4\n286,462,3\n287,463,2\n288,464,2\n289,466,4\n290,467,3\n291,468,2\n292,469,1\n293,471,0\n294,473,3\n295,475,3\n296,477,4\n297,478,2\n298,480,1\n299,481,4\n300,485,3\n301,486,2\n302,488,4\n303,489,2\n304,492,0\n305,493,4\n306,494,0\n307,496,4\n308,497,3\n309,498,0\n310,499,4\n311,500,2\n312,501,3\n313,502,3\n314,503,1\n315,507,4\n316,508,4\n317,509,1\n318,510,1\n319,512,2\n320,514,2\n321,515,4\n322,516,4\n323,517,3\n324,519,3\n325,521,4\n326,523,2\n327,525,0\n328,527,3\n329,528,1\n330,530,4\n331,531,1\n332,532,4\n333,533,0\n334,534,2\n335,535,4\n336,536,3\n337,537,1\n338,540,2\n339,541,3\n340,543,4\n341,544,3\n342,547,1\n343,548,1\n344,549,3\n345,550,4\n346,552,3\n347,553,2\n348,554,2\n349,555,4\n350,556,4\n351,557,4\n352,559,3\n353,560,2\n354,561,3\n355,564,3\n356,565,2\n357,566,3\n358,567,3\n359,568,4\n360,570,2\n361,571,2\n362,572,0\n363,573,2\n364,574,0\n365,575,2\n366,577,4\n367,580,4\n368,581,3\n369,582,4\n370,583,3\n371,586,1\n372,587,1\n373,590,0\n374,591,4\n375,592,3\n376,593,1\n377,594,0\n378,596,2\n379,597,2\n380,598,0\n381,601,3\n382,602,3\n383,603,3\n384,605,3\n385,607,2\n386,608,3\n387,609,2\n388,610,0\n389,611,4\n390,612,0\n391,613,0\n392,616,2\n393,617,2\n394,618,2\n395,619,1\n396,620,1\n397,621,2\n398,622,1\n399,623,0\n400,624,4\n401,626,1\n402,627,0\n403,628,3\n404,630,2\n405,631,3\n406,632,3\n407,633,3\n408,634,4\n409,635,3\n410,636,2\n411,638,1\n412,639,3\n413,643,0\n414,644,2\n415,645,3\n416,646,1\n417,648,4\n418,649,1\n419,651,2\n420,652,1\n421,653,2\n422,655,2\n423,656,3\n424,658,3\n425,659,4\n426,661,4\n427,662,1\n428,663,3\n429,664,2\n430,667,4\n431,670,0\n432,672,0\n433,673,0\n434,674,3\n435,675,4\n436,676,1\n437,677,1\n438,678,2\n439,679,1\n440,684,0\n441,687,0\n442,688,0\n443,690,0\n444,693,4\n445,694,1\n446,696,4\n447,697,0\n448,698,1\n449,701,0\n450,702,3\n451,704,2\n452,705,0\n453,706,1\n454,708,3\n455,709,3\n456,710,1\n457,712,1\n458,713,1\n459,714,1\n460,716,3\n461,717,3\n462,718,4\n463,719,0\n464,720,0\n465,721,1\n466,723,2\n467,724,4\n468,730,0\n469,731,1\n470,732,3\n471,734,0\n472,736,4\n473,737,2\n474,738,1\n475,739,1\n476,741,3\n477,742,4\n478,744,1\n479,745,4\n480,747,0\n481,749,3\n482,750,1\n483,753,0\n484,754,1\n485,755,3\n486,758,0\n487,759,3\n488,762,0\n489,763,3\n490,764,2\n491,766,2\n492,767,3\n493,768,2\n494,772,0\n495,774,1\n496,775,4\n497,776,3\n498,778,2\n499,779,0\n500,780,3\n501,781,4\n502,782,1\n503,784,2\n504,785,4\n505,788,2\n506,789,1\n507,790,0\n508,791,1\n509,795,4\n510,796,4\n511,803,1\n512,805,0\n513,807,1\n514,809,2\n515,810,4\n516,814,2\n517,815,4\n518,816,2\n519,817,4\n520,819,1\n521,820,4\n522,823,4\n523,824,2\n524,825,0\n525,827,4\n526,829,1\n527,831,2\n528,832,4\n529,833,2\n530,834,3\n531,835,0\n532,836,3\n533,838,0\n534,839,0\n535,840,2\n536,841,4\n537,843,3\n538,847,3\n539,848,1\n540,850,1\n541,852,2\n542,854,2\n543,855,2\n544,857,4\n545,858,0\n546,859,1\n547,860,1\n548,863,3\n549,864,2\n550,865,2\n551,866,4\n552,867,1\n553,869,0\n554,873,2\n555,874,2\n556,875,1\n557,878,1\n558,879,3\n559,880,2\n560,881,0\n561,882,0\n562,883,3\n563,886,3\n564,887,0\n565,888,1\n566,889,0\n567,891,0\n568,892,0\n569,893,3\n570,894,3\n571,895,4\n572,896,2\n573,897,3\n574,898,4\n575,899,2\n576,900,3\n577,902,2\n578,903,0\n579,906,2\n580,907,1\n581,908,3\n582,909,3\n583,910,3\n584,911,1\n585,912,1\n586,913,0\n587,914,1\n588,915,2\n589,916,1\n590,918,3\n591,919,0\n592,925,2\n593,926,3\n594,927,4\n595,930,2\n596,933,1\n597,935,1\n598,937,2\n599,940,3\n600,941,1\n601,942,0\n602,943,1\n603,944,4\n604,946,0\n605,947,3\n606,948,3\n607,950,4\n608,951,1\n609,953,4\n610,954,2\n611,956,2\n612,958,0\n613,959,0\n614,961,3\n615,964,2\n616,966,3\n617,967,2\n618,970,4\n619,974,4\n620,975,3\n621,977,1\n622,980,1\n623,982,1\n624,983,3\n625,984,1\n626,985,2\n627,990,0\n628,991,3\n629,992,1\n630,994,3\n631,995,1\n632,997,2\n633,999,4\n634,1000,3\n635,1001,2\n636,1004,3\n637,1006,2\n638,1009,4\n639,1010,4\n640,1011,4\n641,1013,3\n642,1015,4\n643,1017,2\n644,1018,2\n645,1024,0\n646,1025,4\n647,1026,3\n648,1029,3\n649,1030,3\n650,1031,1\n651,1034,3\n652,1035,4\n653,1036,0\n654,1040,4\n655,1042,4\n656,1043,3\n657,1044,2\n658,1047,2\n659,1048,4\n660,1049,0\n661,1050,0\n662,1051,4\n663,1052,0\n664,1053,2\n665,1055,1\n666,1057,0\n667,1058,2\n668,1059,3\n669,1061,3\n670,1063,4\n671,1064,4\n672,1065,4\n673,1066,1\n674,1067,0\n675,1068,3\n676,1069,4\n677,1070,2\n678,1071,1\n679,1072,1\n680,1073,0\n681,1074,4\n682,1077,2\n683,1078,0\n684,1080,2\n685,1081,0\n686,1083,0\n687,1084,2\n688,1086,0\n689,1087,1\n690,1088,4\n691,1089,1\n692,1092,3\n693,1093,4\n694,1095,0\n695,1096,1\n696,1098,1\n697,1102,2\n698,1103,3\n699,1105,2\n700,1106,1\n701,1107,1\n702,1111,1\n703,1112,0\n704,1113,1\n705,1115,3\n706,1116,0\n707,1117,3\n708,1120,4\n709,1122,2\n710,1123,0\n711,1126,0\n712,1129,3\n713,1130,2\n714,1131,0\n715,1132,0\n716,1133,4\n717,1135,4\n718,1137,4\n719,1139,4\n720,1141,4\n721,1142,0\n722,1146,1\n723,1147,3\n724,1149,2\n725,1155,4\n726,1156,0\n727,1157,2\n728,1160,0\n729,1161,0\n730,1162,0\n731,1163,2\n732,1165,3\n733,1166,2\n734,1167,2\n735,1168,1\n736,1169,1\n737,1170,0\n738,1172,1\n739,1173,1\n740,1174,0\n741,1176,3\n742,1177,3\n743,1178,0\n744,1179,4\n745,1180,4\n746,1181,0\n747,1182,0\n748,1184,2\n749,1185,3\n750,1186,4\n751,1187,0\n752,1188,3\n753,1191,0\n754,1192,1\n755,1193,0\n756,1197,4\n757,1198,4\n758,1199,4\n759,1202,3\n760,1203,2\n761,1204,2\n762,1205,4\n763,1206,1\n764,1207,0\n765,1208,1\n766,1209,4\n767,1212,4\n768,1213,4\n769,1215,0\n770,1217,4\n771,1218,2\n772,1219,3\n773,1222,2\n774,1225,4\n775,1227,4\n776,1235,2\n777,1237,2\n778,1239,0\n779,1240,4\n780,1241,4\n781,1242,1\n782,1244,4\n783,1245,2\n784,1246,0\n785,1250,4\n786,1251,0\n787,1252,2\n788,1253,3\n789,1254,4\n790,1255,2\n791,1256,0\n792,1257,1\n793,1259,2\n794,1260,3\n795,1261,0\n796,1262,0\n797,1264,4\n798,1267,4\n799,1268,3\n800,1269,0\n801,1270,2\n802,1271,4\n803,1273,4\n804,1274,3\n805,1275,3\n806,1276,3\n807,1277,2\n808,1279,0\n809,1280,1\n810,1283,1\n811,1284,4\n812,1285,4\n813,1289,4\n814,1290,0\n815,1291,3\n816,1292,2\n817,1294,3\n818,1296,4\n819,1298,4\n820,1299,1\n821,1303,3\n822,1305,3\n823,1306,1\n824,1307,2\n825,1309,0\n826,1311,0\n827,1316,3\n828,1320,0\n829,1321,1\n830,1322,1\n831,1325,1\n832,1326,3\n833,1327,3\n834,1328,4\n835,1330,4\n836,1332,1\n837,1333,3\n838,1334,4\n839,1335,0\n840,1337,3\n841,1339,1\n842,1340,1\n843,1341,2\n844,1342,2\n845,1343,2\n846,1345,0\n847,1347,4\n848,1350,2\n849,1355,2\n850,1356,0\n851,1357,2\n852,1358,0\n853,1360,4\n854,1361,3\n855,1362,3\n856,1364,3\n857,1365,1\n858,1366,1\n859,1367,1\n860,1368,0\n861,1369,1\n862,1370,4\n863,1371,1\n864,1372,3\n865,1373,4\n866,1374,2\n867,1375,2\n868,1376,1\n869,1378,2\n870,1380,1\n871,1381,1\n872,1384,3\n873,1386,3\n874,1387,1\n875,1388,0\n876,1389,4\n877,1392,3\n878,1395,2\n879,1396,2\n880,1400,0\n881,1401,3\n882,1402,2\n883,1403,1\n884,1404,2\n885,1405,0\n886,1406,2\n887,1407,3\n888,1409,1\n889,1410,3\n890,1411,1\n891,1413,4\n892,1416,2\n893,1417,1\n894,1418,0\n895,1421,0\n896,1422,0\n897,1425,4\n898,1426,1\n899,1428,0\n900,1429,1\n901,1431,2\n902,1433,3\n903,1435,0\n904,1436,3\n905,1437,1\n906,1438,4\n907,1440,2\n908,1441,4\n909,1442,3\n910,1443,4\n911,1445,4\n912,1447,3\n913,1448,4\n914,1450,4\n915,1451,1\n916,1452,1\n917,1453,4\n918,1455,2\n919,1456,4\n920,1457,2\n921,1458,1\n922,1459,1\n923,1460,4\n924,1461,1\n925,1462,4\n926,1463,1\n927,1464,4\n928,1465,1\n929,1467,2\n930,1468,2\n931,1471,2\n932,1478,3\n933,1480,0\n934,1483,4\n935,1485,4\n936,1486,2\n937,1487,0\n938,1488,0\n939,1489,0\n940,1490,4\n941,1491,2\n942,1492,3\n943,1493,2\n944,1494,2\n945,1495,3\n946,1497,2\n947,1499,1\n948,1503,1\n949,1504,0\n950,1506,3\n951,1507,1\n952,1508,2\n953,1509,0\n954,1511,4\n955,1512,1\n956,1513,3\n957,1515,0\n958,1516,4\n959,1517,0\n960,1520,4\n961,1521,1\n962,1522,1\n963,1524,4\n964,1527,4\n965,1530,1\n966,1532,0\n967,1533,0\n968,1534,0\n969,1535,1\n970,1536,1\n971,1537,3\n972,1540,0\n973,1541,2\n974,1543,1\n975,1545,2\n976,1546,1\n977,1547,3\n978,1548,2\n979,1550,1\n980,1551,3\n981,1552,4\n982,1554,2\n983,1555,0\n984,1556,0\n985,1560,4\n986,1561,2\n987,1562,1\n988,1563,0\n989,1564,2\n990,1565,0\n991,1566,2\n992,1568,0\n993,1569,3\n994,1571,3\n995,1572,1\n996,1573,3\n997,1574,1\n998,1576,4\n999,1577,4\n1000,1578,4\n1001,1579,0\n1002,1581,0\n1003,1582,0\n1004,1583,0\n1005,1584,2\n1006,1587,1\n1007,1588,4\n1008,1589,3\n1009,1592,3\n1010,1595,4\n1011,1596,4\n1012,1597,2\n1013,1598,2\n1014,1600,0\n1015,1602,2\n1016,1604,4\n1017,1605,0\n1018,1607,0\n1019,1608,3\n1020,1609,3\n1021,1610,0\n1022,1613,3\n1023,1614,4\n1024,1615,2\n1025,1616,4\n1026,1617,0\n1027,1618,1\n1028,1619,1\n1029,1620,0\n1030,1621,4\n1031,1622,1\n1032,1623,1\n1033,1625,2\n1034,1626,3\n1035,1628,3\n1036,1629,1\n1037,1632,4\n1038,1634,4\n1039,1635,1\n1040,1636,1\n1041,1637,1\n1042,1639,0\n1043,1640,2\n1044,1641,1\n1045,1642,0\n1046,1644,1\n1047,1646,1\n1048,1648,3\n1049,1650,0\n1050,1651,3\n1051,1652,3\n1052,1653,3\n1053,1655,4\n1054,1656,3\n1055,1658,1\n1056,1660,4\n1057,1662,3\n1058,1663,4\n1059,1666,0\n1060,1667,2\n1061,1670,0\n1062,1672,1\n1063,1673,3\n1064,1675,1\n1065,1678,1\n1066,1683,3\n1067,1684,2\n1068,1686,3\n1069,1687,4\n1070,1689,4\n1071,1690,0\n1072,1691,2\n1073,1692,4\n1074,1694,4\n1075,1695,1\n1076,1696,4\n1077,1697,0\n1078,1702,1\n1079,1703,3\n1080,1706,1\n1081,1709,4\n1082,1710,3\n1083,1711,3\n1084,1712,4\n1085,1713,0\n1086,1714,1\n1087,1715,3\n1088,1716,0\n1089,1718,4\n1090,1719,4\n1091,1721,0\n1092,1722,2\n1093,1723,1\n1094,1724,1\n1095,1726,0\n1096,1728,0\n1097,1729,3\n1098,1730,4\n1099,1731,0\n1100,1733,0\n1101,1734,4\n1102,1735,4\n1103,1736,3\n1104,1738,4\n1105,1739,4\n1106,1741,1\n1107,1742,4\n1108,1743,0\n1109,1744,2\n1110,1745,3\n1111,1746,4\n1112,1748,0\n1113,1749,1\n1114,1750,3\n1115,1751,3\n1116,1752,2\n1117,1754,1\n1118,1755,4\n1119,1756,3\n1120,1758,4\n1121,1760,4\n1122,1761,0\n1123,1763,4\n1124,1765,2\n1125,1766,3\n1126,1767,0\n1127,1768,3\n1128,1769,2\n1129,1770,1\n1130,1771,2\n1131,1773,4\n1132,1775,4\n1133,1776,2\n1134,1778,1\n1135,1779,3\n1136,1780,2\n1137,1781,1\n1138,1782,0\n1139,1785,3\n1140,1786,2\n1141,1789,0\n1142,1791,2\n1143,1792,0\n1144,1797,0\n1145,1800,4\n1146,1801,2\n1147,1802,2\n1148,1803,3\n1149,1804,3\n1150,1805,3\n1151,1806,0\n1152,1808,4\n1153,1809,3\n1154,1813,1\n1155,1814,3\n1156,1815,2\n1157,1817,1\n1158,1818,1\n1159,1819,0\n1160,1820,0\n1161,1822,0\n1162,1823,1\n1163,1824,2\n1164,1828,4\n1165,1832,3\n1166,1834,0\n1167,1835,3\n1168,1836,3\n1169,1838,0\n1170,1840,4\n1171,1841,0\n1172,1843,0\n1173,1844,2\n1174,1845,4\n1175,1846,3\n1176,1848,4\n1177,1850,4\n1178,1851,3\n1179,1853,0\n1180,1855,4\n1181,1856,0\n1182,1858,3\n1183,1859,1\n1184,1860,4\n1185,1861,2\n1186,1862,1\n1187,1863,4\n1188,1867,2\n1189,1869,4\n1190,1872,4\n1191,1873,0\n1192,1875,2\n1193,1876,4\n1194,1878,1\n1195,1879,2\n1196,1880,2\n1197,1881,4\n1198,1882,0\n1199,1883,1\n1200,1884,2\n1201,1888,2\n1202,1890,4\n1203,1892,3\n1204,1893,0\n1205,1894,2\n1206,1896,3\n1207,1897,2\n1208,1898,4\n1209,1899,0\n1210,1900,3\n1211,1902,3\n1212,1903,0\n1213,1904,4\n1214,1905,2\n1215,1908,4\n1216,1910,1\n1217,1911,0\n1218,1912,3\n1219,1914,0\n1220,1915,0\n1221,1916,3\n1222,1917,4\n1223,1918,2\n1224,1919,2\n1225,1921,1\n1226,1922,0\n1227,1923,1\n1228,1924,3\n1229,1925,4\n1230,1926,3\n1231,1927,3\n1232,1929,4\n1233,1930,4\n1234,1933,2\n1235,1935,0\n1236,1937,4\n1237,1938,2\n1238,1939,2\n1239,1944,3\n1240,1946,2\n1241,1948,4\n1242,1952,4\n1243,1953,2\n1244,1955,4\n1245,1956,4\n1246,1958,3\n1247,1961,2\n1248,1962,2\n1249,1963,3\n1250,1965,4\n1251,1967,1\n1252,1968,0\n1253,1971,3\n1254,1972,4\n1255,1973,0\n1256,1979,2\n1257,1980,1\n1258,1982,0\n1259,1984,3\n1260,1986,4\n1261,1987,0\n1262,1988,3\n1263,1991,2\n1264,1992,0\n1265,1993,4\n1266,1995,3\n1267,1996,2\n1268,1998,2\n1269,2000,0\n1270,2001,3\n1271,2002,1\n1272,2003,0\n1273,2004,2\n1274,2006,3\n1275,2009,1\n1276,2011,0\n1277,2012,3\n1278,2013,4\n1279,2015,2\n1280,2016,2\n1281,2020,2\n1282,2021,0\n1283,2023,3\n1284,2026,4\n1285,2028,3\n1286,2029,0\n1287,2030,1\n1288,2031,3\n1289,2032,0\n1290,2033,2\n1291,2035,1\n1292,2037,1\n1293,2038,3\n1294,2039,4\n1295,2040,1\n1296,2041,0\n1297,2044,1\n1298,2045,3\n1299,2046,2\n1300,2047,2\n1301,2048,4\n1302,2049,2\n1303,2051,4\n1304,2052,1\n1305,2053,4\n1306,2056,4\n1307,2059,3\n1308,2061,0\n1309,2063,4\n1310,2064,2\n1311,2065,1\n1312,2068,2\n1313,2072,3\n1314,2077,1\n1315,2079,1\n1316,2081,4\n1317,2082,2\n1318,2083,4\n1319,2084,2\n1320,2085,4\n1321,2086,4\n1322,2087,1\n1323,2088,3\n1324,2089,0\n1325,2090,4\n1326,2091,3\n1327,2092,4\n1328,2093,4\n1329,2096,2\n1330,2098,4\n1331,2099,2\n1332,2100,3\n1333,2101,0\n1334,2103,2\n1335,2104,0\n1336,2107,1\n1337,2108,2\n1338,2110,2\n1339,2112,2\n1340,2113,4\n1341,2114,0\n1342,2115,2\n1343,2116,0\n1344,2118,3\n1345,2119,3\n1346,2120,3\n1347,2122,3\n1348,2123,1\n1349,2125,4\n1350,2127,4\n1351,2129,2\n1352,2130,1\n1353,2131,4\n1354,2133,0\n1355,2135,2\n1356,2136,2\n1357,2138,2\n1358,2139,0\n1359,2140,4\n1360,2141,1\n1361,2142,1\n1362,2143,4\n1363,2145,4\n1364,2146,3\n1365,2147,2\n1366,2149,3\n1367,2151,4\n1368,2152,4\n1369,2153,4\n1370,2155,0\n1371,2157,2\n1372,2158,4\n1373,2160,4\n1374,2161,0\n1375,2164,2\n1376,2167,1\n1377,2169,4\n1378,2170,3\n1379,2173,0\n1380,2174,2\n1381,2176,3\n1382,2177,1\n1383,2179,0\n1384,2181,4\n1385,2182,1\n1386,2183,3\n1387,2184,3\n1388,2185,2\n1389,2187,0\n1390,2188,1\n1391,2189,3\n1392,2196,4\n1393,2197,4\n1394,2198,0\n1395,2199,0\n1396,2200,1\n1397,2204,2\n1398,2205,2\n1399,2206,3\n1400,2207,4\n1401,2208,3\n1402,2209,4\n1403,2210,0\n1404,2211,4\n1405,2212,1\n1406,2214,2\n1407,2216,1\n1408,2217,2\n1409,2218,0\n1410,2219,0\n1411,2220,3\n1412,2221,2\n1413,2222,1\n1414,2223,0\n1415,2224,2\n1416,2225,4\n1417,2226,4\n1418,2227,4\n1419,2228,2\n1420,2229,3\n1421,2232,0\n1422,2233,0\n1423,2235,0\n1424,2236,1\n1425,2237,2\n1426,2238,4\n1427,2240,3\n1428,2241,0\n1429,2242,4\n1430,2247,2\n1431,2248,4\n1432,2252,2\n1433,2254,1\n1434,2255,1\n1435,2256,1\n1436,2258,2\n1437,2262,2\n1438,2265,0\n1439,2266,3\n1440,2268,2\n1441,2270,3\n1442,2271,2\n1443,2272,0\n1444,2274,3\n1445,2276,0\n1446,2279,0\n1447,2281,2\n1448,2282,3\n1449,2283,0\n1450,2284,0\n1451,2285,4\n1452,2287,0\n1453,2289,4\n1454,2290,3\n1455,2291,1\n1456,2292,1\n1457,2293,0\n1458,2294,1\n1459,2295,3\n1460,2297,4\n1461,2300,4\n1462,2302,0\n1463,2304,2\n1464,2307,0\n1465,2308,0\n1466,2309,3\n1467,2310,3\n1468,2311,1\n1469,2312,1\n1470,2314,4\n1471,2315,4\n1472,2316,0\n1473,2317,1\n1474,2319,2\n1475,2321,2\n1476,2322,1\n1477,2323,0\n1478,2324,4\n1479,2326,0\n1480,2327,0\n1481,2329,1\n1482,2331,0\n1483,2332,2\n1484,2333,2\n1485,2336,4\n1486,2337,3\n1487,2338,2\n1488,2339,0\n1489,2340,2\n1490,2344,2\n1491,2347,0\n1492,2348,0\n1493,2350,3\n1494,2351,1\n1495,2352,4\n1496,2355,3\n1497,2356,4\n1498,2360,2\n1499,2361,0\n1500,2362,1\n1501,2364,3\n1502,2365,1\n1503,2366,2\n1504,2367,0\n1505,2369,4\n1506,2370,1\n1507,2372,4\n1508,2373,1\n1509,2376,1\n1510,2377,1\n1511,2378,3\n1512,2379,1\n1513,2380,0\n1514,2381,2\n1515,2382,4\n1516,2384,2\n1517,2385,3\n1518,2386,4\n1519,2388,2\n1520,2390,0\n1521,2391,1\n1522,2392,4\n1523,2394,2\n1524,2397,1\n1525,2398,0\n1526,2400,2\n1527,2401,4\n1528,2402,0\n1529,2403,2\n1530,2404,2\n1531,2405,2\n1532,2406,3\n1533,2408,4\n1534,2409,1\n1535,2410,2\n1536,2413,2\n1537,2415,2\n1538,2416,4\n1539,2417,0\n1540,2418,3\n1541,2419,3\n1542,2420,2\n1543,2422,1\n1544,2423,2\n1545,2426,4\n1546,2427,3\n1547,2428,4\n1548,2430,0\n1549,2431,4\n1550,2432,2\n1551,2433,0\n1552,2434,4\n1553,2436,3\n1554,2439,1\n1555,2440,2\n1556,2441,0\n1557,2445,1\n1558,2446,0\n1559,2447,3\n1560,2448,0\n1561,2449,4\n1562,2450,0\n1563,2453,2\n1564,2456,1\n1565,2458,4\n1566,2460,0\n1567,2462,3\n1568,2463,4\n1569,2467,0\n1570,2469,4\n1571,2471,1\n1572,2472,1\n1573,2473,0\n1574,2475,3\n1575,2477,1\n1576,2478,4\n1577,2480,1\n1578,2482,4\n1579,2484,0\n1580,2486,1\n1581,2488,1\n1582,2490,0\n1583,2491,1\n1584,2492,2\n1585,2495,2\n1586,2498,0\n1587,2501,1\n1588,2503,0\n1589,2504,0\n1590,2506,0\n1591,2507,1\n1592,2508,3\n1593,2509,4\n1594,2510,0\n1595,2511,4\n1596,2512,1\n1597,2513,3\n1598,2514,0\n1599,2515,1\n1600,2516,1\n1601,2517,2\n1602,2518,3\n1603,2520,4\n1604,2521,3\n1605,2522,1\n1606,2524,2\n1607,2525,3\n1608,2526,4\n1609,2527,2\n1610,2528,2\n1611,2529,1\n1612,2530,4\n1613,2531,4\n1614,2532,0\n1615,2533,3\n1616,2536,3\n1617,2537,2\n1618,2538,3\n1619,2539,2\n1620,2542,2\n1621,2543,3\n1622,2545,4\n1623,2546,0\n1624,2547,0\n1625,2548,1\n1626,2549,3\n1627,2551,2\n1628,2552,1\n1629,2553,4\n1630,2554,1\n1631,2556,2\n1632,2557,1\n1633,2560,1\n1634,2561,1\n1635,2565,1\n1636,2566,1\n1637,2567,0\n1638,2568,4\n1639,2574,0\n1640,2576,3\n1641,2577,3\n1642,2578,1\n1643,2583,4\n1644,2586,1\n1645,2588,2\n1646,2590,0\n1647,2591,3\n1648,2593,4\n1649,2599,3\n1650,2600,2\n1651,2602,1\n1652,2605,4\n1653,2609,3\n1654,2612,1\n1655,2613,4\n1656,2614,0\n1657,2615,4\n1658,2620,4\n1659,2622,2\n1660,2623,4\n1661,2627,4\n1662,2628,0\n1663,2629,1\n1664,2632,1\n1665,2634,3\n1666,2635,0\n1667,2636,3\n1668,2637,2\n1669,2638,0\n1670,2639,3\n1671,2641,2\n1672,2643,1\n1673,2645,2\n1674,2646,3\n1675,2649,0\n1676,2650,0\n1677,2651,1\n1678,2652,2\n1679,2653,3\n1680,2654,3\n1681,2656,3\n1682,2659,0\n1683,2660,4\n1684,2661,0\n1685,2662,0\n1686,2664,0\n1687,2665,2\n1688,2671,0\n1689,2672,0\n1690,2674,1\n1691,2675,3\n1692,2677,1\n1693,2678,0\n1694,2679,2\n1695,2683,4\n1696,2686,4\n1697,2687,1\n1698,2689,1\n1699,2690,4\n1700,2692,2\n1701,2696,1\n1702,2697,1\n1703,2698,4\n1704,2700,3\n1705,2702,1\n1706,2704,3\n1707,2705,0\n1708,2706,2\n1709,2708,1\n1710,2709,4\n1711,2710,0\n1712,2711,4\n1713,2712,3\n1714,2714,2\n1715,2716,0\n1716,2718,1\n1717,2719,0\n1718,2720,1\n1719,2721,2\n1720,2722,0\n1721,2725,0\n1722,2726,0\n1723,2727,1\n1724,2728,3\n1725,2729,2\n1726,2730,4\n1727,2731,1\n1728,2732,1\n1729,2735,0\n1730,2737,2\n1731,2738,2\n1732,2739,0\n1733,2740,2\n1734,2742,2\n1735,2744,3\n1736,2746,1\n1737,2747,3\n1738,2749,4\n1739,2750,4\n1740,2751,4\n1741,2752,1\n1742,2754,4\n1743,2755,2\n1744,2759,4\n1745,2760,2\n1746,2762,3\n1747,2764,1\n1748,2768,1\n1749,2769,2\n1750,2771,0\n1751,2775,3\n1752,2776,3\n1753,2777,3\n1754,2778,0\n1755,2779,3\n1756,2782,3\n1757,2784,0\n1758,2786,1\n1759,2787,0\n1760,2790,0\n1761,2792,3\n1762,2796,0\n1763,2798,1\n1764,2799,0\n1765,2801,3\n1766,2803,2\n1767,2804,1\n1768,2807,0\n1769,2808,0\n1770,2812,3\n1771,2813,3\n1772,2814,1\n1773,2815,3\n1774,2817,1\n1775,2818,0\n1776,2819,0\n1777,2822,4\n1778,2823,4\n1779,2824,0\n1780,2827,2\n1781,2830,3\n1782,2831,4\n1783,2834,2\n1784,2835,3\n1785,2836,4\n1786,2838,1\n1787,2839,0\n1788,2840,0\n1789,2841,3\n1790,2843,0\n1791,2845,3\n1792,2846,3\n1793,2847,2\n1794,2848,4\n1795,2851,0\n1796,2853,2\n1797,2854,3\n1798,2856,2\n1799,2857,2\n1800,2858,3\n1801,2859,2\n1802,2860,0\n1803,2861,2\n1804,2863,3\n1805,2864,0\n1806,2866,1\n1807,2867,0\n1808,2869,2\n1809,2870,0\n1810,2873,3\n1811,2874,3\n1812,2875,1\n1813,2876,0\n1814,2878,2\n1815,2880,1\n1816,2881,0\n1817,2883,3\n1818,2884,4\n1819,2887,4\n1820,2888,4\n1821,2890,3\n1822,2891,1\n1823,2892,1\n1824,2893,1\n1825,2894,4\n1826,2896,3\n1827,2898,1\n1828,2899,4\n1829,2900,1\n1830,2901,3\n1831,2902,2\n1832,2908,0\n1833,2910,2\n1834,2911,3\n1835,2913,1\n1836,2914,4\n1837,2915,3\n1838,2916,3\n1839,2918,3\n1840,2919,0\n1841,2921,1\n1842,2923,4\n1843,2925,4\n1844,2926,3\n1845,2927,4\n1846,2928,3\n1847,2930,3\n1848,2932,1\n1849,2933,2\n1850,2934,0\n1851,2937,4\n1852,2938,0\n1853,2940,3\n1854,2945,2\n1855,2947,2\n1856,2948,2\n1857,2952,3\n1858,2953,4\n1859,2954,0\n1860,2955,3\n1861,2956,3\n1862,2959,4\n1863,2960,2\n1864,2962,4\n1865,2963,0\n1866,2964,4\n1867,2965,4\n1868,2966,0\n1869,2970,2\n1870,2971,4\n1871,2972,0\n1872,2973,3\n1873,2974,3\n1874,2975,4\n1875,2978,4\n1876,2979,1\n1877,2980,0\n1878,2981,1\n1879,2982,1\n1880,2984,3\n1881,2988,4\n1882,2992,3\n1883,2993,3\n1884,2995,1\n1885,2999,3\n1886,3001,4\n1887,3002,0\n1888,3005,2\n1889,3009,3\n1890,3010,4\n1891,3011,3\n1892,3012,4\n1893,3014,1\n1894,3016,2\n1895,3017,2\n1896,3018,0\n1897,3019,3\n1898,3020,4\n1899,3023,1\n1900,3027,3\n1901,3029,4\n1902,3030,2\n1903,3035,2\n1904,3036,4\n1905,3037,4\n1906,3038,0\n1907,3039,0\n1908,3040,1\n1909,3041,0\n1910,3042,2\n1911,3043,4\n1912,3044,3\n1913,3045,2\n1914,3046,1\n1915,3047,3\n1916,3048,0\n1917,3051,1\n1918,3054,4\n1919,3056,4\n1920,3057,1\n1921,3058,2\n1922,3059,3\n1923,3063,1\n1924,3066,2\n1925,3071,0\n1926,3072,1\n1927,3073,2\n1928,3074,0\n1929,3076,1\n1930,3077,0\n1931,3078,0\n1932,3079,2\n1933,3081,3\n1934,3083,4\n1935,3086,3\n1936,3088,4\n1937,3090,1\n1938,3091,4\n1939,3092,0\n1940,3093,3\n1941,3095,4\n1942,3096,4\n1943,3098,0\n1944,3099,3\n1945,3100,1\n1946,3103,4\n1947,3105,0\n1948,3106,3\n1949,3108,1\n1950,3109,2\n1951,3110,2\n1952,3111,4\n1953,3112,1\n1954,3113,1\n1955,3114,2\n1956,3117,4\n1957,3118,0\n1958,3119,0\n1959,3122,3\n1960,3124,3\n1961,3125,2\n1962,3126,3\n1963,3127,4\n1964,3128,4\n1965,3129,0\n1966,3131,0\n1967,3133,1\n1968,3134,2\n1969,3137,3\n1970,3138,4\n1971,3139,1\n1972,3142,3\n1973,3143,1\n1974,3146,1\n1975,3147,3\n1976,3148,3\n1977,3151,3\n1978,3152,0\n1979,3153,3\n1980,3154,4\n1981,3158,4\n1982,3159,4\n1983,3160,2\n1984,3161,1\n1985,3163,0\n1986,3164,2\n1987,3165,1\n1988,3168,3\n1989,3169,3\n1990,3172,2\n1991,3179,1\n1992,3180,0\n1993,3185,4\n1994,3186,3\n1995,3187,0\n1996,3189,2\n1997,3190,0\n1998,3191,3\n1999,3192,1\n2000,3193,4\n2001,3195,2\n2002,3196,3\n2003,3197,4\n2004,3198,2\n2005,3200,1\n2006,3201,3\n2007,3202,1\n2008,3203,1\n2009,3204,1\n2010,3206,3\n2011,3208,4\n2012,3209,2\n2013,3211,0\n2014,3212,4\n2015,3213,1\n2016,3216,3\n2017,3217,4\n2018,3218,2\n2019,3219,3\n2020,3221,3\n2021,3223,4\n2022,3225,3\n2023,3226,0\n2024,3227,0\n2025,3230,0\n2026,3231,2\n2027,3232,0\n2028,3234,1\n2029,3235,2\n2030,3236,3\n2031,3237,2\n2032,3239,0\n2033,3240,1\n2034,3241,1\n2035,3243,4\n2036,3244,0\n2037,3245,2\n2038,3246,3\n2039,3247,0\n2040,3249,2\n2041,3251,0\n2042,3254,0\n2043,3256,3\n2044,3258,1\n2045,3259,0\n2046,3260,4\n2047,3264,2\n2048,3266,0\n2049,3267,0\n2050,3269,2\n2051,3271,4\n2052,3272,4\n2053,3273,3\n2054,3274,3\n2055,3276,0\n2056,3278,1\n2057,3279,0\n2058,3280,3\n2059,3281,0\n2060,3282,0\n2061,3284,1\n2062,3285,4\n2063,3286,3\n2064,3289,3\n2065,3293,0\n2066,3294,2\n2067,3295,4\n2068,3297,4\n2069,3298,0\n2070,3299,2\n2071,3301,2\n2072,3302,3\n2073,3303,3\n2074,3304,1\n2075,3306,4\n2076,3307,3\n2077,3308,1\n2078,3309,1\n2079,3311,1\n2080,3312,0\n2081,3314,0\n2082,3315,2\n2083,3317,4\n2084,3318,4\n2085,3321,0\n2086,3323,2\n2087,3325,3\n2088,3326,0\n2089,3327,1\n2090,3328,2\n2091,3332,2\n2092,3333,4\n2093,3334,0\n2094,3335,3\n2095,3337,4\n2096,3338,3\n2097,3339,0\n2098,3340,2\n2099,3341,4\n2100,3342,1\n2101,3344,0\n2102,3346,0\n2103,3347,1\n2104,3349,3\n2105,3350,1\n2106,3351,2\n2107,3353,1\n2108,3356,2\n2109,3357,0\n2110,3358,2\n2111,3359,1\n2112,3361,1\n2113,3362,4\n2114,3367,3\n2115,3368,2\n2116,3369,1\n2117,3371,2\n2118,3373,1\n2119,3374,2\n2120,3376,4\n2121,3377,3\n2122,3379,1\n2123,3380,1\n2124,3382,0\n2125,3384,3\n2126,3385,3\n2127,3387,3\n2128,3388,3\n2129,3389,4\n2130,3393,3\n2131,3394,3\n2132,3396,2\n2133,3397,2\n2134,3400,3\n2135,3401,0\n2136,3402,1\n2137,3404,4\n2138,3406,0\n2139,3407,1\n2140,3408,2\n2141,3411,3\n2142,3413,1\n2143,3415,4\n2144,3416,0\n2145,3417,3\n2146,3418,2\n2147,3419,3\n2148,3423,1\n2149,3425,2\n2150,3427,3\n2151,3429,0\n2152,3430,0\n2153,3431,3\n2154,3433,3\n2155,3435,3\n2156,3436,2\n2157,3438,4\n2158,3441,0\n2159,3443,4\n2160,3444,4\n2161,3446,2\n2162,3447,0\n2163,3449,4\n2164,3452,0\n2165,3453,3\n2166,3454,1\n2167,3455,0\n2168,3457,1\n2169,3458,2\n2170,3460,0\n2171,3462,3\n2172,3464,3\n2173,3465,0\n2174,3466,3\n2175,3467,4\n2176,3468,1\n2177,3469,1\n2178,3470,0\n2179,3471,1\n2180,3473,4\n2181,3474,4\n2182,3475,4\n2183,3476,0\n2184,3477,1\n2185,3479,2\n2186,3481,1\n2187,3482,4\n2188,3485,4\n2189,3486,4\n2190,3487,4\n2191,3489,4\n2192,3490,0\n2193,3492,4\n2194,3495,4\n2195,3498,2\n2196,3500,4\n2197,3501,2\n2198,3505,0\n2199,3506,1\n2200,3507,4\n2201,3508,3\n2202,3509,2\n2203,3510,0\n2204,3511,3\n2205,3513,4\n2206,3514,3\n2207,3515,4\n2208,3516,2\n2209,3518,4\n2210,3519,1\n2211,3521,1\n2212,3522,3\n2213,3523,0\n2214,3528,1\n2215,3529,4\n2216,3530,3\n2217,3531,1\n2218,3537,1\n2219,3538,3\n2220,3539,1\n2221,3540,0\n2222,3541,4\n2223,3546,2\n2224,3547,2\n2225,3549,4\n2226,3550,2\n2227,3551,3\n2228,3552,0\n2229,3553,2\n2230,3556,0\n2231,3557,3\n2232,3559,4\n2233,3562,4\n2234,3563,1\n2235,3565,0\n2236,3566,1\n2237,3567,2\n2238,3568,1\n2239,3569,4\n2240,3570,4\n2241,3571,0\n2242,3573,3\n2243,3575,1\n2244,3578,3\n2245,3580,0\n2246,3581,0\n2247,3582,0\n2248,3584,3\n2249,3586,4\n2250,3587,0\n2251,3588,3\n2252,3590,0\n2253,3591,1\n2254,3593,1\n2255,3595,1\n2256,3597,1\n2257,3598,3\n2258,3600,0\n2259,3601,0\n2260,3602,1\n2261,3604,1\n2262,3605,0\n2263,3607,0\n2264,3608,3\n2265,3609,1\n2266,3611,3\n2267,3612,3\n2268,3615,4\n2269,3616,3\n2270,3617,1\n2271,3619,1\n2272,3620,4\n2273,3622,0\n2274,3623,0\n2275,3624,4\n2276,3625,2\n2277,3627,2\n2278,3630,3\n2279,3631,0\n2280,3634,2\n2281,3636,1\n2282,3637,3\n2283,3639,4\n2284,3640,1\n2285,3641,0\n2286,3643,4\n2287,3644,2\n2288,3646,1\n2289,3647,3\n2290,3649,1\n2291,3651,3\n2292,3652,1\n2293,3653,3\n2294,3657,4\n2295,3659,2\n2296,3660,1\n2297,3661,2\n2298,3662,4\n2299,3663,4\n2300,3664,3\n2301,3665,1\n2302,3666,1\n2303,3667,4\n2304,3670,4\n2305,3674,1\n2306,3677,4\n2307,3679,0\n2308,3680,0\n2309,3683,0\n2310,3686,0\n2311,3687,3\n2312,3688,1\n2313,3690,2\n2314,3691,4\n2315,3692,0\n2316,3694,0\n2317,3695,0\n2318,3697,0\n2319,3701,0\n2320,3702,4\n2321,3703,3\n2322,3704,0\n2323,3705,1\n2324,3706,0\n2325,3707,0\n2326,3709,4\n2327,3710,2\n2328,3711,2\n2329,3712,0\n2330,3714,4\n2331,3715,4\n2332,3716,0\n2333,3717,1\n2334,3719,1\n2335,3722,0\n2336,3724,2\n2337,3725,4\n2338,3727,1\n2339,3728,4\n2340,3729,2\n2341,3731,1\n2342,3732,2\n2343,3733,2\n2344,3735,1\n2345,3739,2\n2346,3740,3\n2347,3742,4\n2348,3744,2\n2349,3746,0\n2350,3747,1\n2351,3748,4\n2352,3749,2\n2353,3750,2\n2354,3752,1\n2355,3753,4\n2356,3756,0\n2357,3759,3\n2358,3760,2\n2359,3761,3\n2360,3762,3\n2361,3764,1\n2362,3766,2\n2363,3768,4\n2364,3769,3\n2365,3771,2\n2366,3772,3\n2367,3773,3\n2368,3774,4\n2369,3776,0\n2370,3779,1\n2371,3781,4\n2372,3782,4\n2373,3783,4\n2374,3784,2\n2375,3786,0\n2376,3788,0\n2377,3789,4\n2378,3790,2\n2379,3791,3\n2380,3792,1\n2381,3795,2\n2382,3797,2\n2383,3802,0\n2384,3804,4\n2385,3805,4\n2386,3806,2\n2387,3807,4\n2388,3811,4\n2389,3812,4\n2390,3815,4\n2391,3816,4\n2392,3817,1\n2393,3820,4\n2394,3821,0\n2395,3824,3\n2396,3825,3\n2397,3826,3\n2398,3828,0\n2399,3829,0\n2400,3831,4\n2401,3832,3\n2402,3834,3\n2403,3836,1\n2404,3837,0\n2405,3840,4\n2406,3842,0\n2407,3843,1\n2408,3844,3\n2409,3845,1\n2410,3846,4\n2411,3847,0\n2412,3849,0\n2413,3851,4\n2414,3852,1\n2415,3853,2\n2416,3855,3\n2417,3856,4\n2418,3857,2\n2419,3858,1\n2420,3859,2\n2421,3861,4\n2422,3862,4\n2423,3864,0\n2424,3865,4\n2425,3866,1\n2426,3867,1\n2427,3868,0\n2428,3873,0\n2429,3874,3\n2430,3875,2\n2431,3878,4\n2432,3880,1\n2433,3882,4\n2434,3883,2\n2435,3884,2\n2436,3886,3\n2437,3889,4\n2438,3890,4\n2439,3892,0\n2440,3895,3\n2441,3896,3\n2442,3899,4\n2443,3900,3\n2444,3902,1\n2445,3903,2\n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n9052,2\n9053,2\n9054,4\n9055,4\n9056,2\n9057,3\n9058,2\n9059,3\n9060,0\n9062,2\n9063,0\n9064,1\n9066,2\n9068,1\n9071,2\n9072,4\n9073,4\n9074,4\n9077,0\n9079,3\n9081,2\n9082,2\n9083,4\n9084,0\n9085,3\n9086,2\n9087,1\n9088,4\n9089,1\n9090,3\n9091,1\n9092,2\n9094,4\n9095,2\n9096,2\n9097,0\n9099,4\n9100,2\n9101,3\n9106,2\n9108,2\n9112,0\n9115,4\n9121,1\n9124,4\n9125,2\n9126,3\n9127,4\n9128,4\n9129,2\n9131,0\n9133,0\n9134,1\n9135,0\n9137,0\n9138,4\n9139,3\n9145,4\n9146,4\n9147,0\n9148,1\n9150,4\n9151,4\n9152,2\n9153,1\n9154,4\n9155,2\n9156,2\n9159,2\n9161,0\n9163,0\n9164,4\n9166,2\n9167,0\n9169,3\n9170,4\n9171,0\n9173,2\n9175,3\n9176,4\n9177,3\n9179,4\n9180,1\n9181,0\n9182,1\n9183,1\n9185,0\n9187,4\n9188,4\n9189,4\n9190,2\n9192,2\n9193,4\n9197,3\n9199,1\n9200,3\n9201,1\n9202,1\n9203,0\n9204,2\n9205,4\n9206,3\n9208,1\n9209,0\n9212,2\n9216,0\n9218,2\n9219,0\n9220,0\n9224,2\n9226,3\n9229,3\n9230,1\n9231,3\n9232,4\n9233,4\n9234,3\n9235,3\n9236,3\n9239,2\n9244,4\n9246,3\n9247,3\n9248,2\n9249,3\n9250,1\n9251,4\n9252,0\n9253,1\n9254,1\n9255,3\n9258,3\n9261,0\n9262,0\n9264,3\n9265,4\n9266,3\n9267,2\n9268,0\n9269,2\n9270,2\n9272,1\n9273,1\n9274,2\n9276,1\n9277,3\n9278,1\n9279,4\n9280,3\n9281,4\n9282,3\n9283,1\n9284,1\n9285,4\n9287,4\n9289,1\n9290,0\n9295,3\n9296,2\n9299,4\n9300,1\n9301,3\n9306,0\n9309,0\n9310,1\n9311,1\n9312,0\n9313,1\n9316,4\n9317,3\n9318,3\n9319,2\n9320,3\n9321,2\n9322,4\n9327,0\n9329,4\n9330,3\n9331,4\n9332,1\n9333,4\n9334,2\n9335,2\n9336,0\n9341,4\n9342,4\n9343,1\n9345,1\n9346,2\n9347,0\n9348,2\n9349,2\n9351,2\n9357,0\n9358,0\n9359,0\n9360,4\n9362,0\n9363,3\n9366,4\n9367,4\n9368,3\n9369,2\n9370,3\n9371,0\n9373,1\n9374,4\n9375,1\n9377,4\n9378,4\n9379,2\n9380,3\n9382,2\n9383,4\n9386,1\n9387,0\n9390,4\n9393,0\n9396,1\n9399,4\n9401,1\n9402,2\n9403,3\n9404,1\n9405,3\n9406,0\n9407,0\n9411,4\n9412,0\n9415,2\n9416,4\n9417,1\n9418,1\n9420,0\n9421,0\n9423,3\n9424,1\n9425,0\n9427,1\n9428,1\n9430,2\n9432,2\n9433,4\n9435,1\n9436,4\n9437,4\n9442,4\n9444,3\n9445,0\n9446,2\n9449,2\n9450,0\n9451,4\n9452,0\n9456,4\n9458,1\n9460,4\n9464,2\n9465,4\n9467,2\n9470,0\n9471,4\n9473,0\n9474,2\n9475,2\n9477,1\n9479,1\n9480,3\n9481,0\n9482,3\n9484,0\n9486,2\n9487,2\n9489,4\n9490,0\n9491,0\n9492,0\n9494,4\n9495,4\n9498,0\n9499,2\n9501,1\n9505,2\n9506,3\n9507,0\n9509,2\n9511,0\n9512,0\n9514,3\n9521,1\n9522,0\n9524,1\n9525,3\n9526,2\n9527,0\n9528,4\n9529,0\n9530,4\n9531,3\n9537,3\n9538,1\n9539,4\n9542,2\n9546,3\n9549,0\n9550,2\n9551,3\n9552,0\n9554,0\n9555,0\n9556,2\n9557,4\n9559,2\n9561,0\n9562,4\n9563,0\n9564,1\n9565,3\n9566,2\n9572,0\n9574,2\n9576,0\n9577,3\n9579,4\n9580,3\n9582,0\n9583,4\n9584,3\n9585,4\n9586,2\n9587,0\n9588,0\n9589,0\n9592,0\n9594,4\n9596,4\n9598,3\n9599,2\n9603,4\n9606,0\n9607,4\n9608,1\n9609,2\n9611,2\n9612,1\n9613,0\n9614,1\n9615,2\n9616,0\n9618,0\n9619,4\n9620,3\n9622,2\n9624,1\n9626,0\n9627,4\n9631,2\n9634,4\n9635,0\n9636,2\n9638,4\n9641,4\n9642,1\n9643,2\n9645,1\n9646,2\n9647,1\n" }, { "path": "step1_lm_finetuning/data/make_folds.py", "content": "import pandas as pd\nimport functools\nimport operator\nfrom tqdm import tqdm\nfrom sklearn.preprocessing import LabelEncoder\nfrom skmultilearn.model_selection import IterativeStratification\nfrom multiprocessing import Pool, cpu_count\n\nfrom utils import transform_target_columns_to_ordinals\n\n\ndef rareness_split(train_df, least_representative_cols=(\"question_type_spelling\",)):\n rarity_mask = []\n for col in least_representative_cols:\n most_common_value = (\n train_df[col].value_counts().sort_values(ascending=False).index[0]\n )\n rarity_mask.append(train_df[col] != most_common_value)\n rarity_mask = functools.reduce(operator.or_, rarity_mask)\n\n rare_samples = train_df[rarity_mask]\n common_samples = train_df[~rarity_mask]\n\n return common_samples, rare_samples\n\n\ndef aggregate_ordinals(group, agg_func=pd.Series.mode):\n group_id, group_labels = group\n group_labels.drop(labels=[\"group_id\"], axis=1, inplace=True)\n\n agg_group_labels = group_labels.apply(agg_func, axis=0).iloc[0]\n agg_group_labels = agg_group_labels.rename(group_id)\n return agg_group_labels\n\n\ndef stratified_fold_split_for_common(\n common_samples,\n n_splits=5,\n interaction_order=1,\n random_state=42,\n agg_func=pd.Series.mode,\n):\n body_encoder = LabelEncoder()\n common_samples[\"group_id\"] = body_encoder.fit_transform(\n common_samples[\"question_body\"].astype(str)\n )\n\n common_ordinals = transform_target_columns_to_ordinals(common_samples)\n common_ordinals[\"group_id\"] = common_samples[\"group_id\"]\n\n common_groups = common_ordinals.groupby([\"group_id\"])\n with Pool(cpu_count()) as pool:\n aggregated_common_ordinals = list(\n tqdm(\n pool.imap(\n functools.partial(aggregate_ordinals, agg_func=agg_func),\n common_groups,\n ),\n total=len(common_groups),\n desc=\"Aggregate ordinals over groups\",\n )\n )\n aggregated_common_ordinals = pd.concat(\n aggregated_common_ordinals, axis=1\n ).transpose()\n aggregated_common_ordinals.index.rename(\"group_id\", inplace=True)\n\n k_fold = IterativeStratification(\n n_splits=n_splits, order=interaction_order, random_state=random_state\n )\n folds_common = []\n for _, fold_groups in k_fold.split(\n aggregated_common_ordinals, aggregated_common_ordinals\n ):\n fold_mask = common_ordinals[\"group_id\"].isin(fold_groups)\n fold_ids = common_ordinals.index.values[fold_mask]\n folds_common.append(fold_ids)\n\n return folds_common\n\n\ndef stratified_fold_split_for_rare(\n rare_samples,\n n_splits=5,\n interaction_order=1,\n random_state=42,\n least_representative_cols=(\"question_type_spelling\",),\n):\n rare_ordinals = transform_target_columns_to_ordinals(\n rare_samples[list(least_representative_cols)]\n )\n\n k_fold = IterativeStratification(\n n_splits=n_splits, order=interaction_order, random_state=random_state\n )\n folds_rare = []\n for _, fold_ids in k_fold.split(rare_ordinals, rare_ordinals):\n folds_rare.append(rare_samples.index.values[fold_ids])\n return folds_rare\n" }, { "path": "step1_lm_finetuning/data/sampler.py", "content": "from torch.utils.data import Sampler\nimport torch\n\n\nclass UniformRandomSampler(Sampler):\n def __init__(self, data_source, num_samples: int = None):\n self.data_source = data_source\n self._num_samples = num_samples\n self._state = torch.randperm(len(data_source)).tolist()\n\n @property\n def num_samples(self):\n if self._num_samples is None:\n return len(self.data_source)\n return self._num_samples\n\n def __iter__(self):\n n = len(self.data_source)\n if len(self._state) < self.num_samples + 1:\n self._state += torch.randperm(n).tolist()\n output, self._state = (\n self._state[: self.num_samples],\n self._state[self.num_samples :],\n )\n return iter(output)\n\n def __len__(self):\n return self.num_samples\n" }, { "path": "step1_lm_finetuning/data/vocab.txt", "content": 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partment\ntable\nMusic\ncurrent\n31\nfeatures\nspecial\nevents\ncharacter\nTwo\nsquare\nsold\ndebut\n##v\nprocess\nAlthough\nSince\n##ka\n40\nCentral\ncurrently\neducation\nplaced\nlot\nChina\nquickly\nforward\nseven\n##ling\nEurope\narm\nperformed\nJapanese\n1991\nHenry\nNow\nDr\n##ion\nweek\nGroup\nmyself\nbig\nUK\nWashington\nten\ndeep\n1990\nClub\nJapan\nspace\nLa\ndirected\nsmile\nepisode\nhours\nwhole\n##de\n##less\nWhy\nwouldn\ndesigned\nstrong\ntraining\nchanged\nSociety\nstage\ninvolved\nhadn\ntowards\nleading\npolice\neight\nkept\nInstitute\nstudy\nlargest\nchild\neventually\nprivate\nmodern\nCourt\nthroughout\ngetting\noriginally\nattack\n##E\ntalk\nGreat\nlonger\nsongs\nalone\n##ine\nwide\ndead\nwalked\nshot\n##ri\nOh\nforce\n##st\nArt\ntoday\nfriends\nIsland\nRichard\n1989\ncenter\nconstruction\nbelieve\nsize\nWhite\nship\ncompleted\n##B\ngone\nJust\nrock\nsat\n##R\nradio\nbelow\nentire\nfamilies\nleague\nincludes\ntype\nlived\nofficial\nrange\nhold\nfeatured\nMost\n##ter\npresident\npassed\nmeans\n##f\nforces\nlips\nMary\nDo\nguitar\n##ce\nfood\nwall\nOf\nspent\nIts\nperformance\nhear\n##P\nWestern\nreported\nsister\n##et\nmorning\n##M\nespecially\n##ive\nMinister\nitself\npost\nbit\ngroups\n1988\n##tion\nBlack\n##ng\nWell\nraised\nsometimes\nCanadian\nParis\nSpanish\nreplaced\nschools\nAcademy\nleaving\ncentral\nfemale\nChristian\nJack\nwhose\ncollege\nonto\nprovided\n##D\n##ville\nplayers\nactually\nstopped\n##son\nMuseum\ndoesn\n##ts\nbooks\nfight\nallowed\n##ur\nbeginning\nRecords\nawarded\nparents\ncoach\n##os\nRed\nsaying\n##ck\nSmith\nYes\nLake\n##L\naircraft\n1987\n##ble\nprevious\nft\naction\nItalian\nAfrican\nhappened\nvocals\nAct\nfuture\ncourt\n##ge\n1986\ndegree\nphone\n##ro\nIs\ncountries\nwinning\nbreath\nLove\nriver\nmatter\nLord\nOther\nlist\nself\nparts\n##ate\nprovide\ncut\nshows\nplan\n1st\ninterest\n##ized\nAfrica\nstated\nSir\nfell\nowned\nearlier\nended\ncompetition\nattention\n1985\nlower\nnearly\nbad\nolder\nstay\nSaint\n##se\ncertain\n1984\nfingers\nblue\ntry\nfourth\nGrand\n##as\nking\n##nt\nmakes\nchest\nmovement\nstates\nmoving\ndata\nintroduced\nmodel\ndate\nsection\nLos\ndeal\n##I\nskin\nentered\nmiddle\nsuccess\nTexas\n##w\nsummer\nisland\n##N\nRepublic\nlength\nhusband\n1980\n##ey\nreason\nanyone\nforced\nvia\nbase\n500\njob\ncovered\nFestival\nRoman\nsuccessful\nrights\ncover\nMan\nwriting\nIreland\n##F\nrelated\ngoal\ntakes\nbuildings\ntrue\nweeks\n1983\nBecause\nopening\nnovel\nISBN\nmeet\ngold\n##ous\nmid\nkm²\nstanding\nFootball\nChicago\nshook\nwhom\n##ki\n1982\nDay\nfeeling\nscored\nboy\nhigher\nForce\nleader\nheavy\nfall\nquestion\nsense\narmy\nSecond\nenergy\nmeeting\nthemselves\nkill\n##am\nboard\ncensus\n##ya\n##ns\nmine\nmeant\nmarket\nrequired\nbattle\ncampaign\nattended\napproximately\nKingdom\nruns\nactive\n##ha\ncontract\nclear\npreviously\nhealth\n1979\nArts\ncomplete\nCatholic\ncouple\nunits\n##ll\n##ty\nCommittee\nshoulder\nsea\nsystems\nlisted\n##O\ncaught\ntournament\n##G\nnorthern\nauthor\nFilm\nYour\n##men\nholding\noffered\npersonal\n1981\nsouthern\nartist\ntraditional\nstudio\n200\ncapital\n##ful\nregular\nask\ngiving\norganization\nmonth\nnews\nAre\nread\nmanaged\nhelped\nstudied\nstudent\ndefeated\nnatural\nindustry\nYear\nnoted\ndecision\nGovernment\nquite\n##id\nsmiled\n1972\nMaybe\ntracks\n##ke\nMark\nal\nmedia\nengine\nhour\nTheir\nrelationship\nplays\nproperty\nstructure\n1976\nago\nHill\nMartin\n1978\nready\nMany\nLike\nBay\nimmediately\ngenerally\nItaly\nGreek\npractice\ncaused\ndivision\nsignificant\nJoseph\nspeed\nLet\nthinking\ncompletely\n1974\nprimary\nmostly\n##field\n##K\n1975\n##to\nEven\nwriter\n##led\ndropped\nmagazine\ncollection\nunderstand\nroute\nhighest\nparticular\nfilms\nlines\nnetwork\nScience\nloss\ncarried\ndirection\ngreen\n1977\nlocation\nproducer\naccording\nWomen\nQueen\nneck\nthus\nindependent\nview\n1970\nAngeles\nSoviet\ndistance\nproblem\nBoard\ntour\nwestern\nincome\nappearance\naccess\nMexico\nnodded\nstreet\nsurface\narrived\nbelieved\nOld\n1968\n1973\nbecoming\nwhether\n1945\nfigure\nsinger\nstand\nFollowing\nissue\nwindow\nwrong\npain\neveryone\nlives\nissues\npark\nslowly\nla\nact\n##va\nbring\nLee\noperations\nkey\ncomes\nfine\ncold\nfamous\nNavy\n1971\nMe\nadditional\nindividual\n##ner\nZealand\ngoals\ncounty\ncontains\nService\nminute\n2nd\nreach\ntalking\nparticularly\n##ham\nmovie\nDirector\nglass\npaper\nstudies\n##co\nrailway\nstandard\nEducation\n45\nrepresented\nChief\nLouis\nlaunched\nStar\nterms\n60\n1969\nexperience\nwatched\nAnother\nPress\nTom\nstaff\nstarting\nsubject\nbreak\nVirginia\nnine\neye\n##age\nevidence\nfoot\n##est\ncompanies\nPrince\n##V\ngun\ncreate\nBig\nPeople\nguy\nGreen\nsimply\nnumerous\n##line\nincreased\ntwenty\n##ga\n##do\n1967\naward\nofficer\nstone\nBefore\nmaterial\nNorthern\ngrew\nmale\nplant\nLife\nlegs\nstep\nAl\nunit\n35\nexcept\nanswer\n##U\nreport\nresponse\nEdward\ncommercial\nedition\ntrade\nscience\n##ca\nIrish\nLaw\nshown\nrate\nfailed\n##ni\nrema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ball\nhorse\nways\nquestions\nprotect\ngas\nactivity\nyounger\nbottom\nfounder\nScottish\nscreen\ntreatment\neasily\ncom\n##house\ndedicated\nMaster\nwarm\nNight\nGeorgia\nLong\nvon\n##me\nperfect\nwebsite\n1960s\npiano\nefforts\n##ide\nTony\nsort\noffers\nDevelopment\nSimon\nexecutive\n##nd\nsave\nOver\nSenate\n1951\n1990s\ndraw\nmaster\nPolice\n##ius\nrenamed\nboys\ninitial\nprominent\ndamage\nCo\n##ov\n##za\nonline\nbegin\noccurred\ncaptured\nyouth\nTop\naccount\ntells\nJustice\nconducted\nforest\n##town\nbought\nteeth\nJersey\n##di\npurchased\nagreement\nMichigan\n##ure\ncampus\nprison\nbecomes\nproduct\nsecret\nguess\nRoute\nhuge\ntypes\ndrums\n64\nsplit\ndefeat\nestate\nhousing\n##ot\nbrothers\nCoast\ndeclared\nhappen\ntitled\ntherefore\nsun\ncommonly\nalongside\nStadium\nlibrary\nHome\narticle\nsteps\ntelling\nslow\nassigned\nrefused\nlaughed\nwants\nNick\nwearing\nRome\nOpen\n##ah\nHospital\npointed\nTaylor\nlifted\nescape\nparticipated\n##j\ndrama\nparish\nSanta\n##per\norganized\nmass\npick\nAirport\ngets\nLibrary\nunable\npull\nLive\n##ging\nsurrounding\n##ries\nfocused\nAdam\nfacilities\n##ning\n##ny\n38\n##ring\nnotable\nera\nconnected\ngained\noperating\nlaid\nRegiment\nbranch\ndefined\nChristmas\nmachine\nFour\nacademic\nIran\nadopted\nconcept\nMen\ncompared\nsearch\ntraffic\nMax\nMaria\ngreater\n##ding\nwidely\n##burg\nserves\n1938\n37\nGo\nhotel\nshared\ntypically\nscale\n1936\nleg\nsuffered\nyards\npieces\nMinistry\nWilson\nepisodes\nempty\n1918\nsafety\ncontinues\nyellow\nhistoric\nsettlement\n400\nCome\nCorporation\nenemy\ncontent\npicture\nevening\nterritory\nmethod\ntrial\nsolo\ndriver\nHere\n##ls\nentrance\nPrize\nspring\nwhatever\n##ent\n75\n##ji\nreading\nArthur\n##cy\nOur\nclothes\nPrime\nIllinois\nKong\ncode\n##ria\nsit\nHarry\nFederal\nchosen\nadministration\nbodies\nbegins\nstomach\nThough\nseats\nHong\ndensity\nSun\nleaders\nField\nmuseum\nchart\nplatform\nlanguages\n##ron\nbirth\nholds\nGold\n##un\nfish\ncombined\n##ps\n4th\n1937\nlargely\ncaptain\ntrust\nGame\nvan\nboat\nOxford\nbasic\nbeneath\nIslands\npainting\nnice\nToronto\npath\nmales\nsources\nblock\nconference\nparties\nmurder\nclubs\ncrowd\ncalling\nAbout\nBusiness\npeace\nknows\nlake\nspeaking\nstayed\nBrazil\nallowing\nBorn\nunique\nthick\nTechnology\n##que\nreceive\ndes\nsemi\nalive\nnoticed\nformat\n##ped\ncoffee\ndigital\n##ned\nhanded\nguard\ntall\nfaced\nsetting\nplants\npartner\nclaim\nreduced\ntemple\nanimals\ndetermined\nclasses\n##out\nestimated\n##ad\nOlympic\nproviding\nMassachusetts\nlearned\nInc\nPhiladelphia\nSocial\ncarry\n42\npossibly\nhosted\ntonight\nrespectively\nToday\nshape\nMount\nroles\ndesignated\nbrain\netc\nKorea\nthoughts\nBrian\nHighway\ndoors\nbackground\ndrew\nmodels\nfootballer\ntone\nturns\n1935\nquiet\ntower\nwood\nbus\nwrite\nsoftware\nweapons\nflat\nmarked\n1920\nnewly\ntight\nEric\nfinger\nJournal\nFC\nVan\nrise\ncritical\nAtlantic\ngranted\nreturning\ncommunities\nhumans\nquick\n39\n48\nranked\nsight\npop\nSwedish\nStephen\ncard\nanalysis\nattacked\n##wa\nSunday\nidentified\nJason\nchampion\nsituated\n1930\nexpanded\ntears\n##nce\nreaching\nDavis\nprotection\nEmperor\npositions\nnominated\nBridge\ntax\ndress\nallows\navoid\nleadership\nkilling\nactress\nguest\nsteel\nknowing\nelectric\ncells\ndisease\ngrade\nunknown\n##ium\nresulted\nPakistan\nconfirmed\n##ged\ntongue\ncovers\n##Y\nroof\nentirely\napplied\nvotes\ndrink\ninterview\nexchange\nTownship\nreasons\n##ised\npage\ncalls\ndog\nagent\nnose\nteaching\n##ds\n##ists\nadvanced\nwish\nGolden\nexisting\nvehicle\ndel\n1919\ndevelop\nattacks\npressed\nSports\nplanning\nresulting\nfacility\nSarah\nnotes\n1933\nClass\nHistoric\nwinter\n##mo\naudience\nCommunity\nhousehold\nNetherlands\ncreation\n##ize\nkeeping\n1914\nclaims\ndry\nguys\nopposite\n##ak\nexplained\nOntario\nsecondary\ndifference\nFrancis\nactions\norganizations\nyard\nanimal\nUp\nLewis\ntitles\nSeveral\n1934\nRyan\n55\nSupreme\nrolled\n1917\ndistribution\nfigures\nafraid\nrural\nyourself\n##rt\nsets\nbarely\nInstead\npassing\nawards\n41\nsilence\nauthority\noccupied\nenvironment\nwindows\nengineering\nsurprised\nflying\ncrime\nreports\nMountain\npowers\ndriving\nsucceeded\nreviews\n1929\nHead\nmissing\nSong\nJesus\nopportunity\ninspired\nends\nalbums\nconversation\nimpact\ninjury\nsurprise\nbillion\nlearning\nheavily\noldest\nunion\ncreating\n##ky\nfestival\nliterature\nletters\nsexual\n##tte\napartment\nFinal\ncomedy\nnation\norders\n##sen\ncontemporary\nPower\ndrawn\nexistence\nconnection\n##ating\nPost\nJunior\nremembered\nmessage\nMedal\ncastle\nnote\nengineer\nsounds\nBeach\ncrossed\n##dy\near\nscientific\nsales\n##ai\ntheme\nstarts\nclearly\n##ut\ntrouble\n##gan\nbag\n##han\nBC\nsons\n1928\nsilent\nversions\ndaily\nStudies\nending\nRose\nguns\n1932\nheadquarters\nreference\nobtained\nSquadron\nconcert\nnone\ndu\nAmong\n##don\nprevent\nMember\nanswered\nstaring\nBetween\n##lla\nportion\ndrug\nliked\nassociation\nperformances\nNations\nformation\nCastle\nlose\nlear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ntravels\nsamples\naccurate\nphysically\nSony\nNashville\n##sville\n##lic\n##og\nProducer\nLucky\ntough\nStanford\nresort\nrepeatedly\neyebrows\nFar\nchoir\ncommenced\n##ep\n##ridge\nrage\nswing\nsequel\nheir\nbuses\nad\nGrove\n##late\n##rick\nupdated\n##SA\nDelaware\n##fa\nAthletics\nwarmth\nOff\nexcitement\nverse\nProtection\nVilla\ncorruption\nintellectual\nJenny\n##lyn\nmystery\nprayer\nhealthy\n##ologist\nBear\nlab\nErnest\nRemix\nregister\nbasement\nMontgomery\nconsistent\ntier\n1855\nPreston\nBrooks\n##maker\nvocalist\nlaboratory\ndelayed\nwheels\nrope\nbachelor\npitcher\nBlock\nNevertheless\nsuspect\nefficiency\nNebraska\nsiege\nFBI\nplanted\n##AC\nNewton\nbreeding\n##ain\neighteen\nArgentine\nencounter\nservant\n1858\nelder\nShadow\nEpisode\nfabric\ndoctors\nsurvival\nremoval\nchemistry\nvolunteers\nKane\nvariant\narrives\nEagle\nLeft\n##fe\nJo\ndivorce\n##ret\nyesterday\nBryan\nhandling\ndiseases\ncustomer\nSheriff\nTiger\nHarper\n##oi\nresting\nLinda\nSheffield\ngasped\nsexy\neconomics\nalien\ntale\nfootage\nLiberty\nyeah\nfundamental\nGround\nflames\nActress\nphotographer\nMaggie\nAdditional\njoke\ncustom\nSurvey\nAbu\nsilk\nconsumption\nEllis\nbread\n##uous\nengagement\nputs\nDog\n##hr\npoured\nguilt\nCDP\nboxes\nhardware\nclenched\n##cio\nstem\narena\nextending\n##com\nexamination\nSteel\nencountered\nrevised\n140\npicking\nCar\nhasn\nMinor\npride\nRoosevelt\nboards\n##mia\nblocked\ncurious\ndrag\nnarrative\nbrigade\nPrefecture\nmysterious\nnamely\nconnects\nDevil\nhistorians\nCHAPTER\nquit\ninstallation\nGolf\nempire\nelevated\n##eo\nreleasing\nBond\n##uri\nharsh\nban\n##BA\ncontracts\ncloth\npresents\nstake\nchorus\n##eau\nswear\n##mp\nallies\ngenerations\nMotor\nmeter\npen\nwarrior\nveteran\n##EC\ncomprehensive\nmissile\ninteraction\ninstruction\nRenaissance\nrested\nDale\nfix\nfluid\nles\ninvestigate\nloaded\nwidow\nexhibit\nartificial\nselect\nrushing\ntasks\nsignature\nnowhere\nEngineer\nfeared\nPrague\nbother\nextinct\ngates\nBird\nclimbing\nheels\nstriking\nartwork\nhunt\nawake\n##hin\nFormula\nthereby\ncommitment\nimprisoned\nBeyond\n##MA\ntransformed\nAgriculture\nLow\nMovie\nradical\ncomplicated\nYellow\nAuckland\nmansion\ntenth\nTrevor\npredecessor\n##eer\ndisbanded\nsucked\ncircular\nwitch\ngaining\nlean\nBehind\nillustrated\nrang\ncelebrate\nbike\nconsist\nframework\n##cent\nShane\nowns\n350\ncomprises\ncollaborated\ncolleagues\n##cast\nengage\nfewer\n##ave\n1856\nobservation\ndiplomatic\nlegislature\nimprovements\nInterstate\ncraft\nMTV\nmartial\nadministered\njet\napproaching\npermanently\nattraction\nmanuscript\nnumbered\nHappy\nAndrea\nshallow\nGothic\nAnti\n##bad\nimprovement\ntrace\npreserve\nregardless\nrode\ndies\nachievement\nmaintaining\nHamburg\nspine\n##air\nflowing\nencourage\nwidened\nposts\n##bound\n125\nSoutheast\nSantiago\n##bles\nimpression\nreceiver\nSingle\nclosure\n##unt\ncommunist\nhonors\nNorthwest\n105\n##ulated\ncared\nun\nhug\nmagnetic\nseeds\ntopic\nperceived\nprey\nprevented\nMarvel\nEight\nMichel\nTransportation\nrings\nGate\n##gne\nByzantine\naccommodate\nfloating\n##dor\nequation\nministry\n##ito\n##gled\nRules\nearthquake\nrevealing\nBrother\nCeltic\nblew\nchairs\nPanama\nLeon\nattractive\ndescendants\nCare\nAmbassador\ntours\nbreathed\nthreatening\n##cho\nsmiles\nLt\nBeginning\n##iness\nfake\nassists\nfame\nstrings\nMobile\nLiu\nparks\nhttp\n1852\nbrush\nAunt\nbullet\nconsciousness\n##sta\n##ther\nconsequences\ngather\ndug\n1851\nbridges\nDoug\n##sion\nArtists\nignore\nCarol\nbrilliant\nradiation\ntemples\nbasin\nclouds\n##cted\nStevens\nspite\nsoap\nconsumer\nDamn\nSnow\nrecruited\n##craft\nAdvanced\ntournaments\nQuinn\nundergraduate\nquestioned\nPalmer\nAnnual\nOthers\nfeeding\nSpider\nprinting\n##orn\ncameras\nfunctional\nChester\nreaders\nAlpha\nuniversal\nFaith\nBrandon\nFrançois\nauthored\nRing\nel\naims\nathletic\npossessed\nVermont\nprogrammes\n##uck\nbore\nFisher\nstatements\nshed\nsaxophone\nneighboring\npronounced\nbarrel\nbags\n##dge\norganisations\npilots\ncasualties\nKenneth\n##brook\nsilently\nMalcolm\nspan\nEssex\nanchor\n##hl\nvirtual\nlessons\nHenri\nTrump\nPage\npile\nlocomotive\nwounds\nuncomfortable\nsustained\nDiana\nEagles\n##pi\n2000s\ndocumented\n##bel\nCassie\ndelay\nkisses\n##ines\nvariation\n##ag\ngrowled\n##mark\n##ways\nLeslie\nstudios\nFriedrich\naunt\nactively\narmor\neaten\nhistorically\nBetter\npurse\nhoney\nratings\n##ée\nnaturally\n1840\npeer\nKenny\nCardinal\ndatabase\nLooking\nrunners\nhandsome\nDouble\nPA\n##boat\n##sted\nprotecting\n##jan\nDiamond\nconcepts\ninterface\n##aki\nWatch\nArticle\nColumbus\ndialogue\npause\n##rio\nextends\nblanket\npulse\n1853\naffiliate\nladies\nRonald\ncounted\nkills\ndemons\n##zation\nAirlines\nMarco\nCat\ncompanion\nmere\nYugoslavia\nForum\nAllan\npioneer\nCompetition\nMethodist\npatent\nnobody\nStockholm\n##ien\nregulation\n##ois\naccomplished\n##itive\nwashed\nsake\nVladimir\ncrops\nprestigious\nhumor\nSally\nlabour\ntributary\ntrap\naltered\nexamined\nMumbai\nbombing\nAsh\n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\n##rlin\nAntioch\nGao\nDíaz\n1760\nSparks\n##tien\n##bidae\nrehearsal\n##bbs\nbotanical\n##hers\ncompensate\nwholesale\nSeville\nshareholder\nprediction\nastronomical\nReddy\nhardest\ncircling\nwhereabouts\ntermination\nRep\nAssistance\nDramatic\nHerb\n##ghter\nclimbs\n188\nPoole\n301\n##pable\nwit\n##istice\nWalters\nrelying\nJakob\n##redo\nproceeding\nLangley\naffiliates\nou\n##allo\n##holm\nSamsung\n##ishi\nMissing\nXi\nvertices\nClaus\nfoam\nrestless\n##uating\n##sso\n##ttering\nPhilips\ndelta\nbombed\nCatalogue\ncoaster\nLing\nWillard\nsatire\n410\nComposition\nNet\nOrioles\n##ldon\nfins\nPalatinate\nWoodward\ntease\ntilt\nbrightness\n##70\n##bbling\n##loss\n##dhi\n##uilt\nWhoever\n##yers\nhitter\nElton\nExtension\nace\nAffair\nrestructuring\n##loping\nPaterson\nhi\n##rya\nspouse\nShay\nHimself\npiles\npreaching\n##gical\nbikes\nBrave\nexpulsion\nMirza\nstride\nTrees\ncommemorated\nfamine\nmasonry\nSelena\nWatt\nBanking\nRancho\nStockton\ndip\ntattoos\nVlad\nacquainted\nFlyers\nruthless\nfourteenth\nillustrate\n##akes\nEPA\n##rows\n##uiz\nbumped\nDesigned\nLeaders\nmastered\nManfred\nswirled\nMcCain\n##rout\nArtemis\nrabbi\nflinched\nupgrades\npenetrate\nshipyard\ntransforming\ncaretaker\n##eiro\nMaureen\ntightening\n##founded\nRAM\n##icular\n##mper\n##rung\nFifteen\nexploited\nconsistency\ninterstate\n##ynn\nBridget\ncontamination\nMistress\n##rup\ncoating\n##FP\n##jective\nLibyan\n211\nGemma\ndependence\nshrubs\n##ggled\nGermain\nretaliation\ntraction\n##PP\nDangerous\nterminology\npsychiatrist\n##garten\nhurdles\nNatal\nwasting\nWeir\nrevolves\nstripe\n##reased\npreferences\n##entation\n##lde\n##áil\n##otherapy\nFlame\n##ologies\nviruses\nLabel\nPandora\nveil\n##ogical\nColiseum\nCottage\ncreeping\nJong\nlectured\n##çaise\nshoreline\n##fference\n##hra\nShade\nClock\nFaye\nbilingual\nHumboldt\nOperating\n##fter\n##was\nalgae\ntowed\namphibious\nParma\nimpacted\nsmacked\nPiedmont\nMonsters\n##omb\nMoor\n##lberg\nsinister\nPostal\n178\nDrummond\nSign\ntextbooks\nhazardous\nBrass\nRosemary\nPick\nSit\nArchitect\ntransverse\nCentennial\nconfess\npolling\n##aia\nJulien\n##mand\nconsolidation\nEthel\n##ulse\nseverity\nYorker\nchoreographer\n1840s\n##ltry\nsofter\nversa\n##geny\n##quila\n##jō\nCaledonia\nFriendship\nVisa\nrogue\n##zzle\nbait\nfeather\nincidence\nFoods\nShips\n##uto\n##stead\narousal\n##rote\nHazel\n##bolic\nSwing\n##ej\n##cule\n##jana\n##metry\n##uity\nValuable\n##ₙ\nShropshire\n##nect\n365\nOnes\nrealise\nCafé\nAlbuquerque\n##grown\n##stadt\n209\n##ᵢ\nprefers\nwithstand\nLillian\nMacArthur\nHara\n##fulness\ndomination\n##VO\n##school\nFreddy\nethnicity\n##while\nadorned\nhormone\nCalder\nDomestic\nFreud\nShields\n##phus\n##rgan\nBP\nSegunda\nMustang\n##GI\nBonn\npatiently\nremarried\n##umbria\nCrete\nElephant\nNuremberg\ntolerate\nTyson\n##evich\nProgramming\n##lander\nBethlehem\nsegregation\nConstituency\nquarterly\nblushed\nphotographers\nSheldon\nporcelain\nBlanche\ngoddamn\nlively\n##fused\nbumps\n##eli\ncurated\ncoherent\nprovoked\n##vet\nMadeleine\n##isco\nrainy\nBethel\naccusation\nponytail\ngag\n##lington\nquicker\nscroll\n##vate\nBow\nGender\nIra\ncrashes\nACT\nMaintenance\n##aton\n##ieu\nbitterly\nstrains\nrattled\nvectors\n##arina\n##ishly\n173\nparole\n##nx\namusing\nGonzalez\n##erative\nCaucus\nsensual\nPenelope\ncoefficient\nMateo\n##mani\nproposition\nDuty\nlacrosse\nproportions\nPlato\nprofiles\nBotswana\nBrandt\nreins\nmandolin\nencompassing\n##gens\nKahn\nprop\nsummon\n##MR\n##yrian\n##zaki\nFalling\nconditional\nthy\n##bao\n##ych\nradioactive\n##nics\nNewspaper\n##people\n##nded\nGaming\nsunny\n##look\nSherwood\ncrafted\nNJ\nawoke\n187\ntimeline\ngiants\npossessing\n##ycle\nCheryl\nng\nRuiz\npolymer\npotassium\nRamsay\nrelocation\n##leen\nSociology\n##bana\nFranciscan\npropulsion\ndenote\n##erjee\nregisters\nheadline\nTests\nemerges\nArticles\nMint\nlivery\nbreakup\nkits\nRap\nBrowning\nBunny\n##mington\n##watch\nAnastasia\nZachary\narranging\nbiographical\nErica\nNippon\n##membrance\nCarmel\n##sport\n##xes\nPaddy\n##holes\nIssues\nSpears\ncompliment\n##stro\n##graphs\nCastillo\n##MU\n##space\nCorporal\n##nent\n174\nGentlemen\n##ilize\n##vage\nconvinces\nCarmine\nCrash\n##hashi\nFiles\nDoctors\nbrownish\nsweating\ngoats\n##conductor\nrendition\n##bt\nNL\n##spiration\ngenerates\n##cans\nobsession\n##noy\nDanger\nDiaz\nheats\nRealm\npriorities\n##phon\n1300\ninitiation\npagan\nbursts\narchipelago\nchloride\nScreenplay\nHewitt\nKhmer\nbang\njudgement\nnegotiating\n##ait\nMabel\ndensely\nBoulder\nknob\n430\nAlfredo\n##kt\npitches\n##ées\n##ان\nMacdonald\n##llum\nimply\n##mot\nSmile\nspherical\n##tura\nDerrick\nKelley\nNico\ncortex\nlaunches\ndiffered\nparallels\nNavigation\n##child\n##rming\ncanoe\nforestry\nreinforce\n##mote\nconfirming\ntasting\nscaled\n##resh\n##eting\nUnderstanding\nprevailing\nPearce\nCW\nearnest\nGaius\nasserts\ndenoted\nlandmarks\nChargers\nwarns\n##flies\nJudges\njagged\n##dain\ntails\nHistorian\nMillie\n##sler\n221\n##uard\nabsurd\nDion\n##ially\nmakeshift\nSpecifically\nignorance\nEat\n##ieri\ncomparisons\nforensic\n186\nGiro\nskeptical\ndisciplinary\nbattleship\n##45\nLibby\n520\nOdyssey\nledge\n##post\nEternal\nMissionary\ndeficiency\nsettler\nwonders\n##gai\nraging\n##cis\nRomney\nUlrich\nannexation\nboxers\nsect\n204\nARIA\ndei\nHitchcock\nte\nVarsity\n##fic\nCC\nlending\n##nial\n##tag\n##rdy\n##obe\nDefensive\n##dson\n##pore\nstellar\nLam\nTrials\ncontention\nSung\n##uminous\nPoe\nsuperiority\n##plicate\n325\nbitten\nconspicuous\n##olly\nLila\nPub\nPetit\ndistorted\nISIL\ndistinctly\n##family\nCowboy\nmutant\n##cats\n##week\nChanges\nSinatra\nepithet\nneglect\nInnocent\ngamma\nthrill\nreggae\n##adia\n##ational\n##due\nlandlord\n##leaf\nvisibly\n##ì\nDarlington\nGomez\n##iting\nscarf\n##lade\nHinduism\nFever\nscouts\n##roi\nconvened\n##oki\n184\nLao\nboycott\nunemployed\n##lore\n##ß\n##hammer\nCurran\ndisciples\nodor\n##ygiene\nLighthouse\nPlayed\nwhales\ndiscretion\nYves\n##ceived\npauses\ncoincide\n##nji\ndizzy\n##scopic\nrouted\nGuardians\nKellan\ncarnival\nnasal\n224\n##awed\nMitsubishi\n640\nCast\nsilky\nProjects\njoked\nHuddersfield\nRothschild\nzu\n##olar\nDivisions\nmildly\n##eni\n##lge\nAppalachian\nSahara\npinch\n##roon\nwardrobe\n##dham\n##etal\nBubba\n##lini\n##rumbling\nCommunities\nPoznań\nunification\nBeau\nKris\nSV\nRowing\nMinh\nreconciliation\n##saki\n##sor\ntaped\n##reck\ncertificates\ngubernatorial\nrainbow\n##uing\nlitter\n##lique\n##oted\nButterfly\nbenefited\nImages\ninduce\nBalkans\nVelvet\n##90\n##xon\nBowman\n##breaker\npenis\n##nitz\n##oint\n##otive\ncrust\n##pps\norganizers\nOutdoor\nnominees\n##rika\nTX\n##ucks\nProtestants\n##imation\nappetite\nBaja\nawaited\n##points\nwindshield\n##igh\n##zled\nBrody\nBuster\nstylized\nBryce\n##sz\nDollar\nvest\nmold\nounce\nok\nreceivers\n##uza\nPurdue\nHarrington\nHodges\ncaptures\n##ggio\nReservation\n##ssin\n##tman\ncosmic\nstraightforward\nflipping\nremixed\n##athed\nGómez\nLim\nmotorcycles\neconomies\nowning\nDani\n##rosis\nmyths\nsire\nkindly\n1768\nBean\ngraphs\n##mee\n##RO\n##geon\npuppy\nStephenson\nnotified\n##jer\nWatching\n##rama\nSino\nurgency\nIslanders\n##mash\nPlata\nfumble\n##chev\n##stance\n##rack\n##she\nfacilitated\nswings\nakin\nenduring\npayload\n##phine\nDeputies\nmurals\n##tooth\n610\nJays\neyeing\n##quito\ntransparency\n##cote\nTimor\nnegatively\n##isan\nbattled\n##fected\nthankful\nRage\nhospitality\nincorrectly\n207\nentrepreneurs\n##cula\n##wley\nhedge\n##cratic\nCorpus\nOdessa\nWhereas\n##ln\nfetch\nhappier\nAmherst\nbullying\ngraceful\nHeight\nBartholomew\nwillingness\nqualifier\n191\nSyed\nWesleyan\nLayla\n##rrence\nWebber\n##hum\nRat\n##cket\n##herence\nMonterey\ncontaminated\nBeside\nMustafa\nNana\n213\n##pruce\nReason\n##spense\nspike\n##gé\nAU\ndisciple\ncharcoal\n##lean\nformulated\nDiesel\nMariners\naccreditation\nglossy\n1800s\n##ih\nMainz\nunison\nMarianne\nshear\noverseeing\nvernacular\nbowled\n##lett\nunpopular\n##ckoned\n##monia\nGaston\n##TI\n##oters\nCups\n##bones\n##ports\nMuseo\nminors\n1773\nDickens\n##EL\n##NBC\nPresents\nambitions\naxes\nRío\nYukon\nbedside\nRibbon\nUnits\nfaults\nconceal\n##lani\nprevailed\n214\nGoodwin\nJaguar\ncrumpled\nCullen\nWireless\nceded\nremotely\nBin\nmocking\nstraps\nceramics\n##avi\n##uding\n##ader\nTaft\ntwenties\n##aked\nProblem\nquasi\nLamar\n##ntes\n##avan\nBarr\n##eral\nhooks\nsa\n##ône\n194\n##ross\nNero\nCaine\ntrance\nHomeland\nbenches\nGuthrie\ndismiss\n##lex\nCésar\nfoliage\n##oot\n##alty\nAssyrian\nAhead\nMurdoch\ndictatorship\nwraps\n##ntal\nCorridor\nMackay\nrespectable\njewels\nunderstands\n##pathic\nBryn\n##tep\nON\ncapsule\nintrigued\nSleeping\ncommunists\n##chayat\n##current\n##vez\ndoubling\nbooklet\n##uche\nCreed\n##NU\nspies\n##sef\nadjusting\n197\nImam\nheaved\nTanya\ncanonical\nrestraint\nsenators\nstainless\n##gnate\nMatter\ncache\nrestrained\nconflicting\nstung\n##ool\nSustainable\nantiquity\n193\nheavens\ninclusive\n##ador\nfluent\n303\n911\narchaeologist\nsuperseded\n##plex\nTammy\ninspire\n##passing\n##lub\nLama\nMixing\n##activated\n##yote\nparlor\ntactic\n198\nStefano\nprostitute\nrecycling\nsorted\nbanana\nStacey\nMusée\naristocratic\ncough\n##rting\nauthorised\ngangs\nrunoff\nthoughtfully\n##nish\nFisheries\nProvence\ndetector\nhum\n##zhen\npill\n##árez\nMap\nLeaves\nPeabody\nskater\nvent\n##color\n390\ncerebral\nhostages\nmare\nJurassic\nswell\n##isans\nKnoxville\nNaked\nMalaya\nscowl\nCobra\n##anga\nSexual\n##dron\n##iae\n196\n##drick\nRavens\nBlaine\n##throp\nIsmail\nsymmetric\n##lossom\nLeicestershire\nSylvester\nglazed\n##tended\nRadar\nfused\nFamilies\nBlacks\nSale\nZion\nfoothills\nmicrowave\nslain\nCollingwood\n##pants\n##dling\nkillers\nroutinely\nJanice\nhearings\n##chanted\n##ltration\ncontinents\n##iving\n##yster\n##shot\n##yna\ninjected\nGuillaume\n##ibi\nkinda\nConfederacy\nBarnett\ndisasters\nincapable\n##grating\nrhythms\nbetting\ndraining\n##hak\nCallie\nGlover\n##iliated\nSherlock\nhearted\npunching\nWolverhampton\nLeaf\nPi\nbuilders\nfurnished\nknighted\nPhoto\n##zle\nTouring\nfumbled\npads\n##ий\nBartlett\nGunner\neerie\nMarius\nBonus\npots\n##hino\n##pta\nBray\nFrey\nOrtiz\nstalls\nbelongings\nSubway\nfascination\nmetaphor\nBat\nBoer\nColchester\nsway\n##gro\nrhetoric\n##dheim\nFool\nPMID\nadmire\n##hsil\nStrand\nTNA\n##roth\nNottinghamshire\n##mat\n##yler\nOxfordshire\n##nacle\n##roner\nBS\n##nces\nstimulus\ntransports\nSabbath\n##postle\nRichter\n4000\n##grim\n##shima\n##lette\ndeteriorated\nanalogous\n##ratic\nUHF\nenergies\ninspiring\nYiddish\nActivities\n##quential\n##boe\nMelville\n##ilton\nJudd\nconsonants\nlabs\nsmuggling\n##fari\navid\n##uc\ntruce\nundead\n##raith\nMostly\nbracelet\nConnection\nHussain\nawhile\n##UC\n##vention\nliable\ngenetically\n##phic\nImportant\nWildcats\ndaddy\ntransmit\n##cas\nconserved\nYesterday\n##lite\nNicky\nGuys\nWilder\nLay\nskinned\nCommunists\nGarfield\nNearby\norganizer\nLoss\ncrafts\nwalkway\nChocolate\nSundance\nSynod\n##enham\nmodify\nswayed\nSurface\nanalysts\nbrackets\ndrone\nparachute\nsmelling\nAndrés\nfilthy\nfrogs\nvertically\n##OK\nlocalities\nmarries\nAHL\n35th\n##pian\nPalazzo\ncube\ndismay\nrelocate\n##на\nHear\n##digo\n##oxide\nprefecture\nconverts\nhangar\n##oya\n##ucking\nSpectrum\ndeepened\nspoiled\nKeeping\n##phobic\nVerona\noutrage\nImprovement\n##UI\nmasterpiece\nslung\nCalling\nchant\nHaute\nmediated\nmanipulated\naffirmed\n##hesis\nHangul\nskies\n##llan\nWorcestershire\n##kos\nmosaic\n##bage\n##wned\nPutnam\nfolder\n##LM\nguts\nnoteworthy\n##rada\nAJ\nsculpted\n##iselle\n##rang\nrecognizable\n##pent\ndolls\nlobbying\nimpatiently\nSe\nstaple\nSerb\ntandem\nHiroshima\nthieves\n##ynx\nfaculties\nNorte\n##alle\n##trusion\nchords\n##ylon\nGareth\n##lops\n##escu\nFIA\nLevin\nauspices\ngroin\nHui\nnun\nListed\nHonourable\nLarsen\nrigorous\n##erer\nTonga\n##pment\n##rave\n##track\n##aa\n##enary\n540\nclone\nsediment\nesteem\nsighted\ncruelty\n##boa\ninverse\nviolating\nAmtrak\nStatus\namalgamated\nvertex\nAR\nharmless\nAmir\nmounts\nCoronation\ncounseling\nAudi\nCO₂\nsplits\n##eyer\nHumans\nSalmon\n##have\n##rado\n##čić\n216\ntakeoff\nclassmates\npsychedelic\n##gni\nGypsy\n231\nAnger\nGAA\nME\n##nist\n##tals\nLissa\nOdd\nbaptized\nFiat\nfringe\n##hren\n179\nelevators\nperspectives\n##TF\n##ngle\nQuestion\nfrontal\n950\nthicker\nMolecular\n##nological\nSixteen\nBaton\nHearing\ncommemorative\ndorm\nArchitectural\npurity\n##erse\nrisky\nGeorgie\nrelaxing\n##ugs\ndowned\n##rar\nSlim\n##phy\nIUCN\n##thorpe\nParkinson\n217\nMarley\nShipping\nsweaty\nJesuits\nSindh\nJanata\nimplying\nArmenians\nintercept\nAnkara\ncommissioners\nascended\nsniper\nGrass\nWalls\nsalvage\nDewey\ngeneralized\nlearnt\nPT\n##fighter\n##tech\nDR\n##itrus\n##zza\nmercenaries\nslots\n##burst\n##finger\n##nsky\nPrinces\nRhodesia\n##munication\n##strom\nFremantle\nhomework\nins\n##Os\n##hao\n##uffed\nThorpe\nXiao\nexquisite\nfirstly\nliberated\ntechnician\nOilers\nPhyllis\nherb\nsharks\nMBE\n##stock\nProduct\nbanjo\n##morandum\n##than\nVisitors\nunavailable\nunpublished\noxidation\nVogue\n##copic\n##etics\nYates\n##ppard\nLeiden\nTrading\ncottages\nPrinciples\n##Millan\n##wife\n##hiva\nVicar\nnouns\nstrolled\n##eorological\n##eton\n##science\nprecedent\nArmand\nGuido\nrewards\n##ilis\n##tise\nclipped\nchick\n##endra\naverages\ntentatively\n1830s\n##vos\nCertainly\n305\nSociété\nCommandant\n##crats\n##dified\n##nka\nmarsh\nangered\nventilation\nHutton\nRitchie\n##having\nEclipse\nflick\nmotionless\nAmor\nFest\nLoire\nlays\n##icit\n##sband\nGuggenheim\nLuck\ndisrupted\n##ncia\nDisco\n##vigator\ncriticisms\ngrins\n##lons\n##vial\n##ody\nsalute\nCoaches\njunk\nsaxophonist\n##eology\nUprising\nDiet\n##marks\nchronicles\nrobbed\n##iet\n##ahi\nBohemian\nmagician\nwavelength\nKenyan\naugmented\nfashionable\n##ogies\nLuce\nF1\nMonmouth\n##jos\n##loop\nenjoyment\nexemption\nCenters\n##visor\nSoundtrack\nblinding\npractitioner\nsolidarity\nsacrificed\n##oso\n##cture\n##riated\nblended\nAbd\nCopyright\n##nob\n34th\n##reak\nClaudio\nhectare\nrotor\ntestify\n##ends\n##iably\n##sume\nlandowner\n##cess\n##ckman\nEduard\nSilesian\nbackseat\nmutually\n##abe\nMallory\nbounds\nCollective\nPoet\nWinkler\npertaining\nscraped\nPhelps\ncrane\nflickering\nProto\nbubbles\npopularized\nremoves\n##86\nCadillac\nWarfare\naudible\nrites\nshivering\n##sist\n##nst\n##biotic\nMon\nfascist\nBali\nKathryn\nambiguous\nfuriously\nmorale\npatio\nSang\ninconsistent\ntopology\nGreens\nmonkeys\nKöppen\n189\nToy\nvow\n##ías\nbombings\n##culus\nimprovised\nlodged\nsubsidiaries\ngarment\nstartling\npractised\nHume\nThorn\ncategorized\nTill\nEileen\nwedge\n##64\nFederico\npatriotic\nunlock\n##oshi\nbadminton\nCompared\nVilnius\n##KE\nCrimean\nKemp\ndecks\nspaced\nresolutions\nsighs\n##mind\nImagine\nCartoon\nhuddled\npolicemen\nforwards\n##rouch\nequals\n##nter\ninspected\nCharley\nMG\n##rte\npamphlet\nArturo\ndans\nscarcely\n##ulton\n##rvin\nparental\nunconstitutional\nwatts\nSusannah\nDare\n##sitive\nRowland\nValle\ninvalid\n##ué\nDetachment\nacronym\nYokohama\nverified\n##ls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}, { "path": "step1_lm_finetuning/data_preparation/clean_stack_exchange_qa.py", "content": "import re\nfrom multiprocessing import Pool\nfrom pathlib import Path\n\nimport fasttext\nimport numpy as np\nimport pandas as pd\nfrom tqdm.auto import tqdm\n\ntqdm.pandas()\n\n\ndef merge_all_questions_and_answers(path_to_parsed_dumps):\n dumps = path_to_parsed_dumps.glob(\"*\")\n dumps = [path for path in dumps if path.joinpath(\"questions.tsv\").exists()]\n\n all_questions, all_answers = [], []\n offset = 0\n\n for dump in tqdm(dumps):\n questions = pd.read_csv(dump / \"questions.tsv\", sep=\"\\t\")\n answers = pd.read_csv(dump / \"answers.tsv\", sep=\"\\t\")\n\n questions[\"host\"] = answers[\"host\"] = dump.name\n\n accepted_answers = questions[\"AcceptedAnswerId\"].dropna().astype(int)\n answers[\"is_answer_accepted\"] = answers[\"Id\"].astype(int).isin(accepted_answers)\n\n questions[\"Id\"] = questions[\"Id\"].astype(int) + offset\n answers[\"Id\"] = answers[\"Id\"].astype(int) + offset\n answers[\"ParentId\"] = answers[\"ParentId\"].astype(int) + offset\n\n all_questions.append(questions)\n all_answers.append(answers)\n\n offset = max(questions[\"Id\"].max(), answers[\"Id\"].max()) + 1\n\n all_questions = pd.concat(all_questions, sort=False).reset_index()\n all_answers = pd.concat(all_answers, sort=False).reset_index()\n\n return all_questions, all_answers\n\n\ndef process(\n all_questions,\n all_answers,\n path_to_save,\n detect_lang=False,\n n_jobs=4,\n chunksize=100000,\n):\n html_pattern = re.compile(r\"<.*?>\")\n\n question_body = (\n all_questions[\"Body\"]\n .astype(str)\n .progress_apply(lambda s: html_pattern.sub(\"\", s))\n )\n question_title = (\n all_questions[\"Title\"]\n .astype(str)\n .progress_apply(lambda s: html_pattern.sub(\"\", s))\n )\n question_body_cleaned = question_body.progress_apply(\n lambda s: s.replace(\"\\n\", \"\")\n ).values\n\n question_ans_agg_features = pd.concat(\n [\n all_answers.groupby(\"ParentId\")[\"Score\"].max().rename(\"answers_max_score\"),\n all_answers.groupby(\"ParentId\")[\"Score\"]\n .mean()\n .rename(\"answers_mean_score\"),\n ],\n axis=1,\n sort=False,\n )\n\n question_features = all_questions[\n [\"Id\", \"host\", \"username\", \"Score\", \"ViewCount\", \"FavoriteCount\", \"AnswerCount\"]\n ]\n question_features = question_features.merge(\n question_ans_agg_features, left_on=\"Id\", right_on=\"ParentId\", how=\"left\"\n )\n question_features = pd.concat(\n [question_features, question_title, question_body], axis=1, sort=False\n )\n\n if detect_lang:\n n_chunks = int(len(question_body_cleaned) / chunksize) + 1\n\n def predict_lang(sentences):\n model = fasttext.load_model(\"lid.176.bin\")\n return model.predict(list(sentences), k=1)[0]\n\n with Pool(n_jobs) as pool:\n question_lang = list(\n tqdm(\n pool.imap(\n predict_lang,\n [\n question_body_cleaned[i * chunksize : (i + 1) * chunksize]\n for i in range(n_chunks)\n ],\n ),\n total=n_chunks,\n )\n )\n question_lang = list(map(np.array, question_lang))\n question_lang = np.vstack(question_lang).flatten()\n\n question_features = question_features.iloc[\n (question_lang == \"en\") & (all_questions[\"AnswerCount\"].ravel() != 0)\n ]\n else:\n question_features = question_features.iloc[\n (all_questions[\"AnswerCount\"].ravel() != 0)\n ]\n\n question_features.columns = [\n \"id\",\n \"host\",\n \"question_username\",\n \"question_score\",\n \"question_views\",\n \"question_favs\",\n \"answers_count\",\n \"answers_max_score\",\n \"answers_mean_score\",\n \"title\",\n \"body\",\n ]\n selected_answers = all_answers[\"Id\"].isin(select_answers(all_answers))\n\n answer_features = all_answers[selected_answers][\n [\"ParentId\", \"username\", \"Body\", \"Score\", \"is_answer_accepted\"]\n ]\n answer_features[\"Body\"] = (\n answer_features[\"Body\"]\n .astype(str)\n .progress_apply(lambda s: html_pattern.sub(\"\", s))\n )\n\n answer_features.columns = [\n \"ParentId\",\n \"answer_username\",\n \"answer\",\n \"answer_score\",\n \"is_answer_accepted\",\n ]\n qa_features = question_features.merge(\n answer_features, left_on=\"id\", right_on=\"ParentId\", how=\"inner\"\n ).drop(columns=[\"ParentId\"])\n\n targets = [\n \"question_score\",\n \"question_views\",\n \"question_favs\",\n \"answers_count\",\n \"answers_max_score\",\n \"answers_mean_score\",\n \"answer_score\",\n \"is_answer_accepted\",\n ]\n\n qa_features[targets] = qa_features[targets].fillna(0)\n qa_features[targets] = np.sign(qa_features[targets]) * np.log1p(\n np.abs(qa_features[targets].astype(\"float\"))\n )\n qa_features[targets] = qa_features[targets] / qa_features[targets].std()\n\n # save results\n qa_features.rename(\n columns={\"body\": \"question_body\", \"title\": \"question_title\"}\n ).to_csv(path_to_save / \"qa_stackexchange_cleaned.csv\", index=False)\n qa_features.rename(\n columns={\"body\": \"question_body\", \"title\": \"question_title\"}\n ).head(50).to_csv(path_to_save / \"qa_stackexchange_cleaned_toy.csv\", index=False)\n\n\ndef select_answers(all_answers, max_answers_per_question=2):\n answer_ids = all_answers[[\"Id\", \"ParentId\", \"is_answer_accepted\"]]\n\n selected_answers = answer_ids[\"Id\"][answer_ids[\"is_answer_accepted\"]].tolist()\n n_additional = max_answers_per_question - (\n answer_ids.groupby(\"ParentId\")[\"is_answer_accepted\"].sum() > 0\n ).astype(int)\n\n additional_answers = answer_ids.merge(\n n_additional.rename(\"n_additional\").reset_index(), on=\"ParentId\"\n )\n\n while len(additional_answers) > 0:\n print(len(additional_answers))\n additional_answers = additional_answers[\n ~additional_answers[\"Id\"].isin(selected_answers)\n ]\n additional_answers = additional_answers[additional_answers[\"n_additional\"] > 0]\n additional_answers = additional_answers.iloc[\n np.random.permutation(len(additional_answers))\n ].reset_index(drop=True)\n selected_answers += (\n additional_answers[\"Id\"]\n .loc[additional_answers[\"ParentId\"].drop_duplicates().index]\n .tolist()\n )\n\n additional_answers[\"n_additional\"] = additional_answers[\"n_additional\"] - 1\n return selected_answers\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n PATH_TO_SX_PARSED = Path(\"input/sx_dump/stackexchange_parsed\")\n PATH_TO_SAVE_RESULT = Path(\"input\")\n\n # if this flag is on, then we detect question language with fasttext\n # and leave only english\n DETECT_LANG = False\n\n # merge all parsed questions and answers output by `scrape_stack_exchange.py`\n all_questions, all_answers = merge_all_questions_and_answers(\n path_to_parsed_dumps=PATH_TO_SX_PARSED\n )\n\n process(\n all_questions,\n all_answers,\n path_to_save=PATH_TO_SAVE_RESULT,\n detect_lang=DETECT_LANG,\n )\n" }, { "path": "step1_lm_finetuning/data_preparation/clean_stackexchange_QA_demonstration.ipynb", "content": "{\n \"cells\": [\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"markdown\",\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"source\": [\n \"For a better version of the code, please take a look at `clean_stack_exchange_qa.py`\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 1,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"pycharm\": {}\n },\n \"outputs\": [\n {\n \"name\": \"stderr\",\n \"output_type\": \"stream\",\n \"text\": [\n \"//anaconda3/lib/python3.7/site-packages/tqdm/std.py:656: FutureWarning: The Panel class is removed from pandas. Accessing it from the top-level namespace will also be removed in the next version\\n\",\n \" from pandas import Panel\\n\",\n \"//anaconda3/lib/python3.7/site-packages/statsmodels/tools/_testing.py:19: FutureWarning: pandas.util.testing is deprecated. Use the functions in the public API at pandas.testing instead.\\n\",\n \" import pandas.util.testing as tm\\n\"\n ]\n }\n ],\n \"source\": [\n \"import pandas as pd\\n\",\n \"import numpy as np\\n\",\n \"from pathlib import Path\\n\",\n \"import os\\n\",\n \"import re\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \"from tqdm.notebook import tqdm\\n\",\n \"from tqdm.auto import tqdm\\n\",\n \"tqdm.pandas()\\n\",\n \"from matplotlib import pyplot as plt\\n\",\n \"import seaborn as sns\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \"%matplotlib inline\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 2,\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"outputs\": [],\n \"source\": [\n \"PATH_TO_SX_PARSED = Path('../../input/sx_dump/stackexchange_parsed')\\n\",\n \"PATH_TO_SAVE = Path('../../input')\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 3,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"pycharm\": {}\n },\n \"outputs\": [],\n \"source\": [\n \"dumps = PATH_TO_SX_PARSED.glob('*')\\n\",\n \"dumps = [path for path in dumps if path.joinpath('questions.tsv').exists()]\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 4,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"pycharm\": {}\n },\n \"outputs\": [\n {\n \"data\": {\n \"application/vnd.jupyter.widget-view+json\": {\n \"model_id\": \"13c65c62611a445daa83bf5874297762\",\n \"version_major\": 2,\n \"version_minor\": 0\n },\n \"text/plain\": [\n \"HBox(children=(FloatProgress(value=0.0, max=1.0), HTML(value='')))\"\n ]\n },\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"output_type\": \"display_data\"\n },\n {\n \"name\": \"stdout\",\n \"output_type\": \"stream\",\n \"text\": [\n \"\\n\"\n ]\n }\n ],\n \"source\": [\n \"all_questions, all_answers = [], []\\n\",\n \"offset = 0\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \"for dump in tqdm(dumps):\\n\",\n \" questions = pd.read_csv(dump / 'questions.tsv', sep='\\\\t')\\n\",\n \" answers = pd.read_csv(dump / 'answers.tsv', sep='\\\\t')\\n\",\n \" \\n\",\n \" questions['host'] = answers['host'] = dump.name\\n\",\n \" \\n\",\n \" accepted_answers = questions['AcceptedAnswerId'].dropna().astype(int)\\n\",\n \" answers['is_answer_accepted'] = answers['Id'].astype(int).isin(accepted_answers)\\n\",\n \" \\n\",\n \" questions['Id'] = questions['Id'].astype(int) + offset\\n\",\n \" answers['Id'] = answers['Id'].astype(int) + offset\\n\",\n \" answers['ParentId'] = answers['ParentId'].astype(int) + offset\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" \\n\",\n \" all_questions.append(questions)\\n\",\n \" all_answers.append(answers)\\n\",\n \" \\n\",\n \" offset = max(questions['Id'].max(), answers['Id'].max()) + 1\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 5,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"pycharm\": {}\n },\n \"outputs\": [\n {\n \"data\": {\n \"text/plain\": [\n \"1\"\n ]\n },\n \"execution_count\": 5,\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"output_type\": \"execute_result\"\n }\n ],\n \"source\": [\n \"len(all_answers)\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 6,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"pycharm\": {}\n },\n \"outputs\": [],\n \"source\": [\n \"all_questions = pd.concat(all_questions, sort=False).reset_index()\\n\",\n \"all_answers = pd.concat(all_answers, sort=False).reset_index()\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 7,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"pycharm\": {}\n },\n \"outputs\": [\n {\n \"data\": {\n \"text/plain\": [\n \"((2714, 17), (4908, 13))\"\n ]\n },\n \"execution_count\": 7,\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"output_type\": \"execute_result\"\n }\n ],\n \"source\": [\n \"all_questions.shape, all_answers.shape\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 8,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"pycharm\": {}\n },\n \"outputs\": [\n {\n \"data\": {\n \"text/plain\": [\n \"0.2899348003259984\"\n ]\n },\n \"execution_count\": 8,\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"output_type\": \"execute_result\"\n }\n ],\n \"source\": [\n \"answers['is_answer_accepted'].mean()\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 9,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"pycharm\": {}\n },\n \"outputs\": [\n {\n \"data\": {\n \"application/vnd.jupyter.widget-view+json\": {\n \"model_id\": \"d7bf8dae60854d46aa5ec2aaa1b1898e\",\n \"version_major\": 2,\n \"version_minor\": 0\n },\n \"text/plain\": [\n \"HBox(children=(FloatProgress(value=0.0, max=2714.0), HTML(value='')))\"\n ]\n },\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"output_type\": \"display_data\"\n },\n {\n \"name\": \"stdout\",\n \"output_type\": \"stream\",\n \"text\": [\n \"\\n\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"data\": {\n \"application/vnd.jupyter.widget-view+json\": {\n \"model_id\": \"fd51bacb2bd343e7b736bee668e661fa\",\n \"version_major\": 2,\n \"version_minor\": 0\n },\n \"text/plain\": [\n \"HBox(children=(FloatProgress(value=0.0, max=2714.0), HTML(value='')))\"\n ]\n },\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"output_type\": \"display_data\"\n },\n {\n \"name\": \"stdout\",\n \"output_type\": \"stream\",\n \"text\": [\n \"\\n\"\n ]\n }\n ],\n \"source\": [\n \"html_pattern = re.compile(r'<.*?>')\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \"question_body = all_questions['Body'].astype(str).progress_apply(lambda s: html_pattern.sub('', s))\\n\",\n \"question_title = all_questions['Title'].astype(str).progress_apply(lambda s: html_pattern.sub('', s))\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 10,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"pycharm\": {}\n },\n \"outputs\": [\n {\n \"data\": {\n \"application/vnd.jupyter.widget-view+json\": {\n \"model_id\": \"df243821aeb345c496127674317171d2\",\n \"version_major\": 2,\n \"version_minor\": 0\n },\n \"text/plain\": [\n \"HBox(children=(FloatProgress(value=0.0, max=2714.0), HTML(value='')))\"\n ]\n },\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"output_type\": \"display_data\"\n },\n {\n \"name\": \"stdout\",\n \"output_type\": \"stream\",\n \"text\": [\n \"\\n\"\n ]\n }\n ],\n \"source\": [\n \"question_body_cleaned = question_body.progress_apply(lambda s: s.replace('\\\\n','')).values\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 11,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"pycharm\": {}\n },\n \"outputs\": [],\n \"source\": [\n \"n_jobs = 4\\n\",\n \"chunksize = 100000\\n\",\n \"n_chunks = int(len(question_body_cleaned) / chunksize) + 1\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 12,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"pycharm\": {},\n \"scrolled\": true\n },\n \"outputs\": [\n {\n \"name\": \"stderr\",\n \"output_type\": \"stream\",\n \"text\": [\n \"\\n\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"data\": {\n \"application/vnd.jupyter.widget-view+json\": {\n \"model_id\": \"de511be31f9b4692b92af5ba3d1d764c\",\n \"version_major\": 2,\n \"version_minor\": 0\n },\n \"text/plain\": [\n \"HBox(children=(FloatProgress(value=0.0, max=1.0), HTML(value='')))\"\n ]\n },\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"output_type\": \"display_data\"\n },\n {\n \"name\": \"stdout\",\n \"output_type\": \"stream\",\n \"text\": [\n \"\\n\",\n \"CPU times: user 59.7 ms, sys: 40.7 ms, total: 100 ms\\n\",\n \"Wall time: 564 ms\\n\"\n ]\n }\n ],\n \"source\": [\n \"%%time\\n\",\n \"import fasttext\\n\",\n \"from multiprocessing import Pool\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \"def predict_lang(sentences):\\n\",\n \" model = fasttext.load_model('../../input/lid.176.bin')\\n\",\n \" return model.predict(list(sentences), k=1)[0]\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \"with Pool(n_jobs) as pool:\\n\",\n \" question_lang = list(\\n\",\n \" tqdm(\\n\",\n \" pool.imap(predict_lang, [question_body_cleaned[i*chunksize : (i+1)*chunksize] \\n\",\n \" for i in range(n_chunks)]),\\n\",\n \" total = n_chunks\\n\",\n \" )\\n\",\n \" )\\n\",\n \" \\n\",\n \"question_lang = list(map(np.array, question_lang))\\n\",\n \"question_lang = np.vstack(question_lang).flatten()\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 13,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"pycharm\": {}\n },\n \"outputs\": [],\n \"source\": [\n \"question_lang = np.array([l[-2:] for l in question_lang])\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 14,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"pycharm\": {}\n },\n \"outputs\": [\n {\n \"data\": {\n \"image/png\": \"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\\n\",\n \"text/plain\": [\n \"<Figure size 432x720 with 1 Axes>\"\n ]\n },\n \"metadata\": {\n \"needs_background\": \"light\"\n },\n \"output_type\": \"display_data\"\n }\n ],\n \"source\": [\n \"plt.figure(figsize=(6,10))\\n\",\n \"sns.countplot(y=question_lang, orient='h');\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 15,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"pycharm\": {}\n },\n \"outputs\": [],\n \"source\": [\n \"question_ans_agg_features = pd.concat([\\n\",\n \" all_answers.groupby('ParentId')['Score'].max().rename('answers_max_score'),\\n\",\n \" all_answers.groupby('ParentId')['Score'].mean().rename('answers_mean_score')\\n\",\n \"], axis=1, sort=False)\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 16,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"pycharm\": {}\n },\n \"outputs\": [],\n \"source\": [\n \"question_features = all_questions[['Id','host','username','Score','ViewCount','FavoriteCount','AnswerCount']]\\n\",\n \"question_features = question_features.merge(question_ans_agg_features, left_on='Id', right_on='ParentId', how='left')\\n\",\n \"question_features = pd.concat([question_features, question_title, question_body], axis=1, sort=False)\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \"question_features = question_features.iloc[\\n\",\n \" (question_lang=='en') &\\n\",\n \" (all_questions['AnswerCount'].ravel() != 0)]\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 17,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"pycharm\": {},\n \"scrolled\": true\n },\n \"outputs\": [\n {\n \"name\": \"stdout\",\n \"output_type\": \"stream\",\n \"text\": [\n \"Index(['Id', 'host', 'username', 'Score', 'ViewCount', 'FavoriteCount',\\n\",\n \" 'AnswerCount', 'answers_max_score', 'answers_mean_score', 'Title',\\n\",\n \" 'Body'],\\n\",\n \" dtype='object')\\n\"\n ]\n }\n ],\n \"source\": [\n \"print(question_features.columns)\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 18,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"pycharm\": {}\n },\n \"outputs\": [],\n \"source\": [\n \"question_features.columns = ['id', 'host', 'question_username', 'question_score', 'question_views', 'question_favs',\\n\",\n \" 'answers_count', 'answers_max_score', 'answers_mean_score', 'title', 'body']\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": null,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"pycharm\": {}\n },\n \"outputs\": [],\n \"source\": []\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 19,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"pycharm\": {}\n },\n \"outputs\": [],\n \"source\": [\n \"def select_answers(all_answers, max_answers_per_question =2):\\n\",\n \" answer_ids = all_answers[['Id','ParentId','is_answer_accepted']]\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" selected_answers = answer_ids['Id'][answer_ids['is_answer_accepted']].tolist()\\n\",\n \" n_additional = max_answers_per_question - (answer_ids.groupby('ParentId')['is_answer_accepted'].sum() > 0).astype(int)\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" additional_answers = answer_ids.merge(n_additional.rename('n_additional').reset_index(), on='ParentId')\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" while len(additional_answers) > 0:\\n\",\n \" print(len(additional_answers))\\n\",\n \" additional_answers = additional_answers[~additional_answers['Id'].isin(selected_answers)]\\n\",\n \" additional_answers = additional_answers[additional_answers['n_additional'] > 0]\\n\",\n \" additional_answers = additional_answers.iloc[np.random.permutation(len(additional_answers))].reset_index(drop=True)\\n\",\n \" selected_answers += additional_answers['Id'].loc[additional_answers['ParentId'].drop_duplicates().index].tolist()\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" additional_answers['n_additional'] = additional_answers['n_additional'] - 1\\n\",\n \" return selected_answers\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 20,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"pycharm\": {}\n },\n \"outputs\": [\n {\n \"name\": \"stdout\",\n \"output_type\": \"stream\",\n \"text\": [\n \"4908\\n\",\n \"3485\\n\",\n \"971\\n\"\n ]\n }\n ],\n \"source\": [\n \"selected_answers = all_answers['Id'].isin(select_answers(all_answers))\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 21,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"pycharm\": {},\n \"scrolled\": true\n },\n \"outputs\": [],\n \"source\": [\n \"answer_features = all_answers[selected_answers][['ParentId', 'username', 'Body', 'Score','is_answer_accepted']]\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 22,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"pycharm\": {}\n },\n \"outputs\": [\n {\n \"data\": {\n \"application/vnd.jupyter.widget-view+json\": {\n \"model_id\": \"12fa30cd346c406bab9c217924ca7f53\",\n \"version_major\": 2,\n \"version_minor\": 0\n },\n \"text/plain\": [\n \"HBox(children=(FloatProgress(value=0.0, max=3911.0), HTML(value='')))\"\n ]\n },\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"output_type\": \"display_data\"\n },\n {\n \"name\": \"stdout\",\n \"output_type\": \"stream\",\n \"text\": [\n \"\\n\"\n ]\n }\n ],\n \"source\": [\n \"answer_features['Body'] = answer_features['Body'].astype(str).progress_apply(lambda s: html_pattern.sub('', s))\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 23,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"pycharm\": {}\n },\n \"outputs\": [\n {\n \"name\": \"stdout\",\n \"output_type\": \"stream\",\n \"text\": [\n \"Index(['ParentId', 'username', 'Body', 'Score', 'is_answer_accepted'], dtype='object')\\n\"\n ]\n }\n ],\n \"source\": [\n \"print(answer_features.columns)\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 24,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"pycharm\": {}\n },\n \"outputs\": [],\n \"source\": [\n \"answer_features.columns = ['ParentId', 'answer_username', 'answer', 'answer_score', 'is_answer_accepted']\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 25,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"pycharm\": {}\n },\n \"outputs\": [],\n \"source\": [\n \"qa_features = question_features.merge(answer_features, left_on='id', right_on='ParentId', how='inner')\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 26,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"pycharm\": {}\n },\n \"outputs\": [],\n \"source\": [\n \"qa_features.drop(columns=['ParentId'], inplace=True)\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 27,\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"outputs\": [\n {\n \"name\": \"stdout\",\n \"output_type\": \"stream\",\n \"text\": [\n \"<class 'pandas.core.frame.DataFrame'>\\n\",\n \"Int64Index: 3899 entries, 0 to 3898\\n\",\n \"Data columns (total 15 columns):\\n\",\n \" # Column Non-Null Count Dtype \\n\",\n \"--- ------ -------------- ----- \\n\",\n \" 0 id 3899 non-null int64 \\n\",\n \" 1 host 3899 non-null object \\n\",\n \" 2 question_username 3899 non-null object \\n\",\n \" 3 question_score 3899 non-null int64 \\n\",\n \" 4 question_views 3899 non-null int64 \\n\",\n \" 5 question_favs 989 non-null float64\\n\",\n \" 6 answers_count 3899 non-null int64 \\n\",\n \" 7 answers_max_score 3899 non-null float64\\n\",\n \" 8 answers_mean_score 3899 non-null float64\\n\",\n \" 9 title 3899 non-null object \\n\",\n \" 10 body 3899 non-null object \\n\",\n \" 11 answer_username 3899 non-null object \\n\",\n \" 12 answer 3899 non-null object \\n\",\n \" 13 answer_score 3899 non-null int64 \\n\",\n \" 14 is_answer_accepted 3899 non-null bool \\n\",\n \"dtypes: bool(1), float64(3), int64(5), object(6)\\n\",\n \"memory usage: 460.7+ KB\\n\"\n ]\n }\n ],\n \"source\": [\n \"qa_features.info()\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 28,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"pycharm\": {},\n \"scrolled\": true\n },\n \"outputs\": [],\n \"source\": [\n \"targets = [ 'question_score', 'question_views', 'question_favs', \\n\",\n \" 'answers_count', 'answers_max_score', 'answers_mean_score', 'answer_score', 'is_answer_accepted']\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \"qa_features[targets] = qa_features[targets].fillna(0)\\n\",\n \"qa_features[targets] = np.sign(qa_features[targets]) * np.log1p(np.abs(qa_features[targets].astype('float')))\\n\",\n \"qa_features[targets] = qa_features[targets] / qa_features[targets].std()\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 29,\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"outputs\": [\n {\n \"data\": {\n \"text/html\": [\n \"<div>\\n\",\n \"<style scoped>\\n\",\n \" .dataframe tbody tr th:only-of-type {\\n\",\n \" vertical-align: middle;\\n\",\n \" }\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" .dataframe tbody tr th {\\n\",\n \" vertical-align: top;\\n\",\n \" }\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" .dataframe thead th {\\n\",\n \" text-align: right;\\n\",\n \" }\\n\",\n \"</style>\\n\",\n \"<table border=\\\"1\\\" class=\\\"dataframe\\\">\\n\",\n \" <thead>\\n\",\n \" <tr style=\\\"text-align: right;\\\">\\n\",\n \" <th></th>\\n\",\n \" <th>id</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>host</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>question_username</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>question_score</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>question_views</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>question_favs</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>answers_count</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>answers_max_score</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>answers_mean_score</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>title</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>body</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>answer_username</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>answer</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>answer_score</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>is_answer_accepted</th>\\n\",\n \" </tr>\\n\",\n \" </thead>\\n\",\n \" <tbody>\\n\",\n \" <tr>\\n\",\n \" <th>0</th>\\n\",\n \" <td>1</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>3dprinting.stackexchange.com</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>Adam Davis</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>3.76781</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>3.91261</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>0</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>3.18806</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>3.74932</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>3.43195</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>How to obtain high resolution prints in a shor...</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>When I've printed an object I've had to choose...</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>hroncok</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>You could experiment with slicing. For example...</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>3.21337</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2.07692</td>\\n\",\n \" </tr>\\n\",\n \" <tr>\\n\",\n \" <th>1</th>\\n\",\n \" <td>1</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>3dprinting.stackexchange.com</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>Adam Davis</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>3.76781</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>3.91261</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>0</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>3.18806</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>3.74932</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>3.43195</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>How to obtain high resolution prints in a shor...</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>When I've printed an object I've had to choose...</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>plaintoothpaste</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>For FDM technologies in general with a single ...</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>1.60668</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>0</td>\\n\",\n \" </tr>\\n\",\n \" <tr>\\n\",\n \" <th>2</th>\\n\",\n \" <td>4</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>3dprinting.stackexchange.com</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>Adam Davis</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>4.54164</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>3.92155</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2.77997</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>4.67042</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>3.32048</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>3.43195</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>Are there any metals that exhibit a large glas...</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>Plastic is used in 3D FDM/FFF printing partly ...</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>TextGeek</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>I\\\"m no expert on this, but the article at http...</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2.62039</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>0</td>\\n\",\n \" </tr>\\n\",\n \" <tr>\\n\",\n \" <th>3</th>\\n\",\n \" <td>4</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>3dprinting.stackexchange.com</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>Adam Davis</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>4.54164</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>3.92155</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2.77997</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>4.67042</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>3.32048</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>3.43195</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>Are there any metals that exhibit a large glas...</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>Plastic is used in 3D FDM/FFF printing partly ...</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>Ryan Carlyle</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>A few things are required for effective extrus...</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2.84583</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2.07692</td>\\n\",\n \" </tr>\\n\",\n \" <tr>\\n\",\n \" <th>4</th>\\n\",\n \" <td>2</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>3dprinting.stackexchange.com</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>kenorb</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>5.29103</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>5.52632</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>3.50793</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>5.1995</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>5.19514</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>4.52199</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>Is 3D printing safe for your health?</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>I would like to buy a 3D printer, but I'm conc...</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>Tom van der Zanden</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>There is very little information about safety ...</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>4.45251</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2.07692</td>\\n\",\n \" </tr>\\n\",\n \" </tbody>\\n\",\n \"</table>\\n\",\n \"</div>\"\n ],\n \"text/plain\": [\n \" id host question_username question_score \\\\\\n\",\n \"0 1 3dprinting.stackexchange.com Adam Davis 3.76781 \\n\",\n \"1 1 3dprinting.stackexchange.com Adam Davis 3.76781 \\n\",\n \"2 4 3dprinting.stackexchange.com Adam Davis 4.54164 \\n\",\n \"3 4 3dprinting.stackexchange.com Adam Davis 4.54164 \\n\",\n \"4 2 3dprinting.stackexchange.com kenorb 5.29103 \\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" question_views question_favs answers_count answers_max_score \\\\\\n\",\n \"0 3.91261 0 3.18806 3.74932 \\n\",\n \"1 3.91261 0 3.18806 3.74932 \\n\",\n \"2 3.92155 2.77997 4.67042 3.32048 \\n\",\n \"3 3.92155 2.77997 4.67042 3.32048 \\n\",\n \"4 5.52632 3.50793 5.1995 5.19514 \\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" answers_mean_score title \\\\\\n\",\n \"0 3.43195 How to obtain high resolution prints in a shor... \\n\",\n \"1 3.43195 How to obtain high resolution prints in a shor... \\n\",\n \"2 3.43195 Are there any metals that exhibit a large glas... \\n\",\n \"3 3.43195 Are there any metals that exhibit a large glas... \\n\",\n \"4 4.52199 Is 3D printing safe for your health? \\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" body answer_username \\\\\\n\",\n \"0 When I've printed an object I've had to choose... hroncok \\n\",\n \"1 When I've printed an object I've had to choose... plaintoothpaste \\n\",\n \"2 Plastic is used in 3D FDM/FFF printing partly ... TextGeek \\n\",\n \"3 Plastic is used in 3D FDM/FFF printing partly ... Ryan Carlyle \\n\",\n \"4 I would like to buy a 3D printer, but I'm conc... Tom van der Zanden \\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" answer answer_score \\\\\\n\",\n \"0 You could experiment with slicing. For example... 3.21337 \\n\",\n \"1 For FDM technologies in general with a single ... 1.60668 \\n\",\n \"2 I\\\"m no expert on this, but the article at http... 2.62039 \\n\",\n \"3 A few things are required for effective extrus... 2.84583 \\n\",\n \"4 There is very little information about safety ... 4.45251 \\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" is_answer_accepted \\n\",\n \"0 2.07692 \\n\",\n \"1 0 \\n\",\n \"2 0 \\n\",\n \"3 2.07692 \\n\",\n \"4 2.07692 \"\n ]\n },\n \"execution_count\": 29,\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"output_type\": \"execute_result\"\n }\n ],\n \"source\": [\n \"qa_features.head()\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 30,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"pycharm\": {},\n \"scrolled\": true\n },\n \"outputs\": [],\n \"source\": [\n \"qa_features.rename(columns={'body': 'question_body',\\n\",\n \" 'title': 'question_title'}).to_csv(PATH_TO_SAVE / 'qa_stackexchange_cleaned.csv',\\n\",\n \" index=False)\\n\",\n \"qa_features.rename(columns={'body': 'question_body',\\n\",\n \" 'title': 'question_title'}).head(50).to_csv(PATH_TO_SAVE / 'qa_stackexchange_cleaned_toy.csv',\\n\",\n \" index=False)\"\n ]\n }\n ],\n \"metadata\": {\n \"kernelspec\": {\n \"display_name\": \"Python 3\",\n \"language\": \"python\",\n \"name\": \"python3\"\n },\n \"language_info\": {\n \"codemirror_mode\": {\n \"name\": \"ipython\",\n \"version\": 3\n },\n \"file_extension\": \".py\",\n \"mimetype\": \"text/x-python\",\n \"name\": \"python\",\n \"nbconvert_exporter\": \"python\",\n \"pygments_lexer\": \"ipython3\",\n \"version\": \"3.7.3\"\n }\n },\n \"nbformat\": 4,\n \"nbformat_minor\": 2\n}\n" }, { "path": "step1_lm_finetuning/data_preparation/download_and_process_stackexchange_dump_demonstration.ipynb", "content": "{\n \"cells\": [\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"markdown\",\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"source\": [\n \"For a better version of the code, please take a look at `scrape_stack_exchange.py`\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 1,\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"outputs\": [],\n \"source\": [\n \"import os\\n\",\n \"import xml.etree.cElementTree as et\\n\",\n \"from multiprocessing import Pool, cpu_count\\n\",\n \"from pathlib import Path\\n\",\n \"import pandas as pd\\n\",\n \"import requests\\n\",\n \"import wget\\n\",\n \"from bs4 import BeautifulSoup\\n\",\n \"from tqdm.notebook import tqdm\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 2,\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"outputs\": [],\n \"source\": [\n \"PATH_TO_SX_DUMP = Path('../../input/sx_dump')\\n\",\n \"!mkdir -p $PATH_TO_SX_DUMP\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 3,\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"outputs\": [],\n \"source\": [\n \"r = requests.get(\\\"https://archive.org/download/stackexchange\\\")\\n\",\n \"soup = BeautifulSoup(r.content, \\\"html.parser\\\")\\n\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 4,\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"outputs\": [],\n \"source\": [\n \"listing_table = soup.find('table', class_='directory-listing-table')\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 5,\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"outputs\": [\n {\n \"data\": {\n \"text/plain\": [\n \"715\"\n ]\n },\n \"execution_count\": 5,\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"output_type\": \"execute_result\"\n }\n ],\n \"source\": [\n \"links = listing_table.findAll('a', href=True)\\n\",\n \"len(links)\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"markdown\",\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"source\": [\n \"**Write all links to a file**\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 6,\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"outputs\": [],\n \"source\": [\n \"link_list = '\\\\n'.join(['https://archive.org/download/stackexchange/' + l['href'] for l in links[1:]])\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 7,\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"outputs\": [],\n \"source\": [\n \"with open(PATH_TO_SX_DUMP / 'link_list.txt','w') as f:\\n\",\n \" f.write(link_list)\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"markdown\",\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"source\": [\n \"**For demonstration we pick the first two (skipping duplicates)**\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \"You'll need 7z to extract archives.\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 8,\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"outputs\": [\n {\n \"data\": {\n \"text/plain\": [\n \"['https://archive.org/download/stackexchange/3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com.7z',\\n\",\n \" 'https://archive.org/download/stackexchange/3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com.7z/',\\n\",\n \" 'https://archive.org/download/stackexchange/3dprinting.stackexchange.com.7z',\\n\",\n \" 'https://archive.org/download/stackexchange/3dprinting.stackexchange.com.7z/']\"\n ]\n },\n \"execution_count\": 8,\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"output_type\": \"execute_result\"\n }\n ],\n \"source\": [\n \"link_list.split('\\\\n')[:4]\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 9,\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"outputs\": [\n {\n \"data\": {\n \"application/vnd.jupyter.widget-view+json\": {\n \"model_id\": \"0229192c4c554e6f9ba14370337fbbad\",\n \"version_major\": 2,\n \"version_minor\": 0\n },\n \"text/plain\": [\n \"HBox(children=(FloatProgress(value=0.0, max=4.0), HTML(value='')))\"\n ]\n },\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"output_type\": \"display_data\"\n },\n {\n \"name\": \"stdout\",\n \"output_type\": \"stream\",\n \"text\": [\n \"Downloading 3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com.7z...\\n\",\n \"7z e ../../input/sx_dump/3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com.7z -o../../input/sx_dump/3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com\\n\",\n \"Downloading 3dprinting.stackexchange.com.7z...\\n\",\n \"7z e ../../input/sx_dump/3dprinting.stackexchange.com.7z -o../../input/sx_dump/3dprinting.stackexchange.com\\n\",\n \"\\n\"\n ]\n }\n ],\n \"source\": [\n \"for link in tqdm(links[1:5]):\\n\",\n \" filename = str(link['href'])\\n\",\n \" if filename[-1] != '/':\\n\",\n \" print(f\\\"Downloading {filename}...\\\")\\n\",\n \" url = 'https://archive.org/download/stackexchange/' + filename\\n\",\n \" filename = wget.download(url, out=str(PATH_TO_SX_DUMP))\\n\",\n \" print(f\\\"7z e {filename} -o{filename.rstrip('.7z')}\\\")\\n\",\n \" os.system(f\\\"7z e {filename} -o{filename.rstrip('.7z')}\\\")\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"markdown\",\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"source\": [\n \"**Parsing a single catalog - `3dprinting.stackexchange.com/`**\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 10,\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"outputs\": [],\n \"source\": [\n \"stackexchange_dir = PATH_TO_SX_DUMP / '3dprinting.stackexchange.com/'\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 11,\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"outputs\": [],\n \"source\": [\n \"def xml_to_pandas(root, columns, row_name='row'):\\n\",\n \" df = None\\n\",\n \" try:\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" rows = root.findall('.//{}'.format(row_name))\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" xml_data = [[row.get(c) for c in columns] for row in rows] # NESTED LIST\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" df = pd.DataFrame(xml_data, columns=columns)\\n\",\n \" except Exception as e:\\n\",\n \" print('[xml_to_pandas] Exception: {}.'.format(e))\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" return df\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 12,\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"outputs\": [],\n \"source\": [\n \"def parse_xml_dump(pathes):\\n\",\n \" stackexchange_dir, output_dir = pathes\\n\",\n \" \\n\",\n \" path = stackexchange_dir / 'Users.xml'\\n\",\n \" columns =['Id', 'Reputation', 'DisplayName']\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" root = et.parse(path)\\n\",\n \" user_df = xml_to_pandas(root, columns)\\n\",\n \" user_df = user_df.rename(columns ={\\n\",\n \" 'Reputation':'user_reputation',\\n\",\n \" 'DisplayName':'username',\\n\",\n \" 'Id':'OwnerUserId',\\n\",\n \" })\\n\",\n \" \\n\",\n \" path = stackexchange_dir / 'Posts.xml'\\n\",\n \" columns = [\\n\",\n \" 'AcceptedAnswerId',\\n\",\n \" 'AnswerCount',\\n\",\n \" 'Body',\\n\",\n \" 'ClosedDate',\\n\",\n \" 'CommentCount',\\n\",\n \" 'CreationDate',\\n\",\n \" 'FavoriteCount',\\n\",\n \" 'Id',\\n\",\n \" 'LastActivityDate',\\n\",\n \" 'OwnerUserId',\\n\",\n \" 'ParentId',\\n\",\n \" 'PostTypeId',\\n\",\n \" 'Score',\\n\",\n \" 'Title',\\n\",\n \" 'ViewCount']\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" root = et.parse(path)\\n\",\n \" posts_df = xml_to_pandas(root, columns)\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" question_columns = ['Id',\\n\",\n \" 'CreationDate',\\n\",\n \" 'Score',\\n\",\n \" 'ViewCount',\\n\",\n \" 'Body',\\n\",\n \" 'OwnerUserId',\\n\",\n \" 'LastActivityDate',\\n\",\n \" 'Title',\\n\",\n \" 'AnswerCount',\\n\",\n \" 'CommentCount',\\n\",\n \" 'FavoriteCount',\\n\",\n \" 'AcceptedAnswerId',\\n\",\n \" 'ClosedDate',]\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" answer_columns =['Id',\\n\",\n \" 'CreationDate',\\n\",\n \" 'Score',\\n\",\n \" 'Body',\\n\",\n \" 'OwnerUserId',\\n\",\n \" 'LastActivityDate',\\n\",\n \" 'CommentCount',\\n\",\n \" 'ParentId']\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" question_df = posts_df[posts_df['PostTypeId']== '1'][question_columns]\\n\",\n \" answer_df = posts_df[posts_df['PostTypeId']== '2'][answer_columns]\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" answer_df = answer_df.merge(user_df, on='OwnerUserId')\\n\",\n \" question_df = question_df.merge(user_df, on='OwnerUserId')\\n\",\n \" \\n\",\n \" answer_df.to_csv(output_dir / 'answers.tsv', sep='\\\\t', index=False)\\n\",\n \" question_df.to_csv(output_dir / 'questions.tsv', sep='\\\\t', index=False)\\n\",\n \" \\n\",\n \" return question_df, answer_df\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 13,\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"outputs\": [],\n \"source\": [\n \"output_dir = PATH_TO_SX_DUMP / 'stackexchange_parsed'\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \"dumps = list(PATH_TO_SX_DUMP.glob('*com'))\\n\",\n \"dumps = [path for path in dumps if '.meta' not in path.name]\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \"outputs = [output_dir / path.name for path in dumps]\\n\",\n \"for path in outputs:\\n\",\n \" if not path.exists():\\n\",\n \" os.makedirs(str(path))\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 14,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"scrolled\": true\n },\n \"outputs\": [\n {\n \"data\": {\n \"application/vnd.jupyter.widget-view+json\": {\n \"model_id\": \"cd823fc91c9849cdb4d342ce1444b0f2\",\n \"version_major\": 2,\n \"version_minor\": 0\n },\n \"text/plain\": [\n \"HBox(children=(FloatProgress(value=0.0, max=1.0), HTML(value='')))\"\n ]\n },\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"output_type\": \"display_data\"\n },\n {\n \"name\": \"stdout\",\n \"output_type\": \"stream\",\n \"text\": [\n \"\\n\"\n ]\n }\n ],\n \"source\": [\n \"with Pool(cpu_count()) as pool:\\n\",\n \" list(tqdm(pool.imap(parse_xml_dump, zip(dumps, outputs)), total=len(dumps)))\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"markdown\",\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"source\": [\n \"**Get questions and answers**\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 15,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"scrolled\": false\n },\n \"outputs\": [],\n \"source\": [\n \"three_d_printing_output = PATH_TO_SX_DUMP / 'stackexchange_parsed/3dprinting.stackexchange.com/'\\n\",\n \"three_d_printing_dump = PATH_TO_SX_DUMP / '3dprinting.stackexchange.com'\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 16,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"scrolled\": false\n },\n \"outputs\": [],\n \"source\": [\n \"question_df, answer_df = parse_xml_dump((three_d_printing_dump, three_d_printing_output))\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 21,\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"outputs\": [\n {\n \"data\": {\n \"text/html\": [\n \"<div>\\n\",\n \"<style scoped>\\n\",\n \" .dataframe tbody tr th:only-of-type {\\n\",\n \" vertical-align: middle;\\n\",\n \" }\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" .dataframe tbody tr th {\\n\",\n \" vertical-align: top;\\n\",\n \" }\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" .dataframe thead th {\\n\",\n \" text-align: right;\\n\",\n \" }\\n\",\n \"</style>\\n\",\n \"<table border=\\\"1\\\" class=\\\"dataframe\\\">\\n\",\n \" <thead>\\n\",\n \" <tr style=\\\"text-align: right;\\\">\\n\",\n \" <th></th>\\n\",\n \" <th>Id</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>CreationDate</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>Score</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>ViewCount</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>Body</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>OwnerUserId</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>LastActivityDate</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>Title</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>AnswerCount</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>CommentCount</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>FavoriteCount</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>AcceptedAnswerId</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>ClosedDate</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>user_reputation</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>username</th>\\n\",\n \" </tr>\\n\",\n \" </thead>\\n\",\n \" <tbody>\\n\",\n \" <tr>\\n\",\n \" <th>0</th>\\n\",\n \" <td>1</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2016-01-12T18:45:19.963</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>10</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>303</td>\\n\",\n \" <td><p>When I've printed an object I've had to cho...</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>16</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2017-10-31T02:31:08.560</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>How to obtain high resolution prints in a shor...</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>6</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>None</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>51</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>None</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>1783</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>Adam Davis</td>\\n\",\n \" </tr>\\n\",\n \" <tr>\\n\",\n \" <th>1</th>\\n\",\n \" <td>4</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2016-01-12T18:50:55.973</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>17</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>307</td>\\n\",\n \" <td><p>Plastic is used in 3D FDM/FFF printing part...</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>16</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2016-06-10T13:32:20.493</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>Are there any metals that exhibit a large glas...</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>4</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>0</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>1289</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>None</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>1783</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>Adam Davis</td>\\n\",\n \" </tr>\\n\",\n \" <tr>\\n\",\n \" <th>2</th>\\n\",\n \" <td>2</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2016-01-12T18:45:51.287</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>28</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>3212</td>\\n\",\n \" <td><p>I would like to buy a 3D printer, but I'm c...</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>20</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2019-06-10T23:18:34.190</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>Is 3D printing safe for your health?</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>5</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>1</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>3</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>12</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>None</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2245</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>kenorb</td>\\n\",\n \" </tr>\\n\",\n \" <tr>\\n\",\n \" <th>3</th>\\n\",\n \" <td>6</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2016-01-12T18:57:13.350</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>10</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>539</td>\\n\",\n \" <td><p>My MakerBot printer supports only two filam...</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>20</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2018-09-16T12:35:19.097</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>Multi-color printing with desktop 3D printer?</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>5</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>0</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>1</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>27</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>None</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2245</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>kenorb</td>\\n\",\n \" </tr>\\n\",\n \" <tr>\\n\",\n \" <th>4</th>\\n\",\n \" <td>11</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2016-01-12T19:07:53.343</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>46</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>69868</td>\\n\",\n \" <td><p>The surfaces of my printed parts using PLA ...</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>20</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2019-05-14T19:08:09.893</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>How do I give 3D-printed parts in PLA a shiny ...</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>9</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>0</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>20</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>34</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>None</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2245</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>kenorb</td>\\n\",\n \" </tr>\\n\",\n \" </tbody>\\n\",\n \"</table>\\n\",\n \"</div>\"\n ],\n \"text/plain\": [\n \" Id CreationDate Score ViewCount \\\\\\n\",\n \"0 1 2016-01-12T18:45:19.963 10 303 \\n\",\n \"1 4 2016-01-12T18:50:55.973 17 307 \\n\",\n \"2 2 2016-01-12T18:45:51.287 28 3212 \\n\",\n \"3 6 2016-01-12T18:57:13.350 10 539 \\n\",\n \"4 11 2016-01-12T19:07:53.343 46 69868 \\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" Body OwnerUserId \\\\\\n\",\n \"0 <p>When I've printed an object I've had to cho... 16 \\n\",\n \"1 <p>Plastic is used in 3D FDM/FFF printing part... 16 \\n\",\n \"2 <p>I would like to buy a 3D printer, but I'm c... 20 \\n\",\n \"3 <p>My MakerBot printer supports only two filam... 20 \\n\",\n \"4 <p>The surfaces of my printed parts using PLA ... 20 \\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" LastActivityDate Title \\\\\\n\",\n \"0 2017-10-31T02:31:08.560 How to obtain high resolution prints in a shor... \\n\",\n \"1 2016-06-10T13:32:20.493 Are there any metals that exhibit a large glas... \\n\",\n \"2 2019-06-10T23:18:34.190 Is 3D printing safe for your health? \\n\",\n \"3 2018-09-16T12:35:19.097 Multi-color printing with desktop 3D printer? \\n\",\n \"4 2019-05-14T19:08:09.893 How do I give 3D-printed parts in PLA a shiny ... \\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" AnswerCount CommentCount FavoriteCount AcceptedAnswerId ClosedDate \\\\\\n\",\n \"0 2 6 None 51 None \\n\",\n \"1 4 0 2 1289 None \\n\",\n \"2 5 1 3 12 None \\n\",\n \"3 5 0 1 27 None \\n\",\n \"4 9 0 20 34 None \\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" user_reputation username \\n\",\n \"0 1783 Adam Davis \\n\",\n \"1 1783 Adam Davis \\n\",\n \"2 2245 kenorb \\n\",\n \"3 2245 kenorb \\n\",\n \"4 2245 kenorb \"\n ]\n },\n \"execution_count\": 21,\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"output_type\": \"execute_result\"\n }\n ],\n \"source\": [\n \"question_df.head()\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 17,\n \"metadata\": {\n \"scrolled\": true\n },\n \"outputs\": [\n {\n \"data\": {\n \"text/html\": [\n \"<div>\\n\",\n \"<style scoped>\\n\",\n \" .dataframe tbody tr th:only-of-type {\\n\",\n \" vertical-align: middle;\\n\",\n \" }\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" .dataframe tbody tr th {\\n\",\n \" vertical-align: top;\\n\",\n \" }\\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" .dataframe thead th {\\n\",\n \" text-align: right;\\n\",\n \" }\\n\",\n \"</style>\\n\",\n \"<table border=\\\"1\\\" class=\\\"dataframe\\\">\\n\",\n \" <thead>\\n\",\n \" <tr style=\\\"text-align: right;\\\">\\n\",\n \" <th></th>\\n\",\n \" <th>Id</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>CreationDate</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>Score</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>Body</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>OwnerUserId</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>LastActivityDate</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>CommentCount</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>ParentId</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>user_reputation</th>\\n\",\n \" <th>username</th>\\n\",\n \" </tr>\\n\",\n \" </thead>\\n\",\n \" <tbody>\\n\",\n \" <tr>\\n\",\n \" <th>0</th>\\n\",\n \" <td>9</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2016-01-12T18:58:04.410</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>17</td>\\n\",\n \" <td><p>Almost all 3D printers have issues that cou...</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>16</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2016-01-12T18:58:04.410</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>1783</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>Adam Davis</td>\\n\",\n \" </tr>\\n\",\n \" <tr>\\n\",\n \" <th>1</th>\\n\",\n \" <td>39</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2016-01-12T20:00:22.177</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>15</td>\\n\",\n \" <td><p>The files used to print these objects are d...</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>16</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2016-01-12T20:00:22.177</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>0</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>33</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>1783</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>Adam Davis</td>\\n\",\n \" </tr>\\n\",\n \" <tr>\\n\",\n \" <th>2</th>\\n\",\n \" <td>43</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2016-01-12T20:05:22.530</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>6</td>\\n\",\n \" <td><p>In theory, making filament is easy. You ta...</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>16</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2019-01-18T15:13:48.737</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>38</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>1783</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>Adam Davis</td>\\n\",\n \" </tr>\\n\",\n \" <tr>\\n\",\n \" <th>3</th>\\n\",\n \" <td>53</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2016-01-12T20:24:10.350</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>4</td>\\n\",\n \" <td><blockquote>\\\\n <p>parts ... I don't want to ....</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>16</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2016-01-13T12:37:29.580</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>0</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>14</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>1783</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>Adam Davis</td>\\n\",\n \" </tr>\\n\",\n \" <tr>\\n\",\n \" <th>4</th>\\n\",\n \" <td>57</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2016-01-12T20:30:29.773</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>6</td>\\n\",\n \" <td><p>Using negative pressure ventilation and a s...</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>16</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>2016-01-12T20:30:29.773</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>0</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>49</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>1783</td>\\n\",\n \" <td>Adam Davis</td>\\n\",\n \" </tr>\\n\",\n \" </tbody>\\n\",\n \"</table>\\n\",\n \"</div>\"\n ],\n \"text/plain\": [\n \" Id CreationDate Score \\\\\\n\",\n \"0 9 2016-01-12T18:58:04.410 17 \\n\",\n \"1 39 2016-01-12T20:00:22.177 15 \\n\",\n \"2 43 2016-01-12T20:05:22.530 6 \\n\",\n \"3 53 2016-01-12T20:24:10.350 4 \\n\",\n \"4 57 2016-01-12T20:30:29.773 6 \\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" Body OwnerUserId \\\\\\n\",\n \"0 <p>Almost all 3D printers have issues that cou... 16 \\n\",\n \"1 <p>The files used to print these objects are d... 16 \\n\",\n \"2 <p>In theory, making filament is easy. You ta... 16 \\n\",\n \"3 <blockquote>\\\\n <p>parts ... I don't want to .... 16 \\n\",\n \"4 <p>Using negative pressure ventilation and a s... 16 \\n\",\n \"\\n\",\n \" LastActivityDate CommentCount ParentId user_reputation username \\n\",\n \"0 2016-01-12T18:58:04.410 2 2 1783 Adam Davis \\n\",\n \"1 2016-01-12T20:00:22.177 0 33 1783 Adam Davis \\n\",\n \"2 2019-01-18T15:13:48.737 2 38 1783 Adam Davis \\n\",\n \"3 2016-01-13T12:37:29.580 0 14 1783 Adam Davis \\n\",\n \"4 2016-01-12T20:30:29.773 0 49 1783 Adam Davis \"\n ]\n },\n \"execution_count\": 17,\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"output_type\": \"execute_result\"\n }\n ],\n \"source\": [\n \"answer_df.head()\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"markdown\",\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"source\": [\n \"The corresponding files a saved here\"\n ]\n },\n {\n \"cell_type\": \"code\",\n \"execution_count\": 20,\n \"metadata\": {},\n \"outputs\": [\n {\n \"name\": \"stdout\",\n \"output_type\": \"stream\",\n \"text\": [\n \"answers.tsv questions.tsv\\r\\n\"\n ]\n }\n ],\n \"source\": [\n \"!ls $three_d_printing_output\"\n ]\n }\n ],\n \"metadata\": {\n \"kernelspec\": {\n \"display_name\": \"Python 3\",\n \"language\": \"python\",\n \"name\": \"python3\"\n },\n \"language_info\": {\n \"codemirror_mode\": {\n \"name\": \"ipython\",\n \"version\": 3\n },\n \"file_extension\": \".py\",\n \"mimetype\": \"text/x-python\",\n \"name\": \"python\",\n \"nbconvert_exporter\": \"python\",\n \"pygments_lexer\": \"ipython3\",\n \"version\": \"3.7.3\"\n }\n },\n \"nbformat\": 4,\n \"nbformat_minor\": 2\n}\n" }, { "path": "step1_lm_finetuning/data_preparation/scrape_stack_exchange.py", "content": "import os\nimport xml.etree.cElementTree as et\nfrom multiprocessing import Pool, cpu_count\nfrom pathlib import Path\nimport pandas as pd\nimport requests\nimport wget\nfrom bs4 import BeautifulSoup\nfrom tqdm import tqdm\n\n\ndef get_urls(main_url, path_to_dump):\n r = requests.get(main_url)\n soup = BeautifulSoup(r.content, \"html.parser\")\n\n listing_table = soup.find(\"table\", class_=\"directory-listing-table\")\n links = listing_table.findAll(\"a\", href=True)\n\n # Write all links to a file\n link_list = \"\\n\".join([main_url + l[\"href\"] for l in links[1:]])\n with open(path_to_dump / \"link_list.txt\", \"w\") as f:\n f.write(link_list)\n\n return links\n\n\ndef download_and_unzip_data(main_url, links, path_to_dump):\n for link in tqdm(links):\n filename = str(link[\"href\"])\n if filename[-1] != \"/\":\n print(f\"Downloading {filename}...\")\n url = main_url + filename\n filename = wget.download(url, out=str(path_to_dump))\n\n print(f\"7z e {filename} -o{filename.rstrip('.7z')}\")\n os.system(f\"7z e {filename} -o{filename.rstrip('.7z')}\")\n\n\ndef xml_to_pandas(root, columns, row_name=\"row\"):\n df = None\n try:\n\n rows = root.findall(\".//{}\".format(row_name))\n\n xml_data = [[row.get(c) for c in columns] for row in rows] # NESTED LIST\n\n df = pd.DataFrame(xml_data, columns=columns)\n except Exception as e:\n print(\"[xml_to_pandas] Exception: {}.\".format(e))\n\n return df\n\n\ndef parse_xml_dump(pathes):\n stackexchange_dir, output_dir = pathes\n\n path = stackexchange_dir / \"Users.xml\"\n columns = [\"Id\", \"Reputation\", \"DisplayName\"]\n\n root = et.parse(path)\n user_df = xml_to_pandas(root, columns)\n user_df = user_df.rename(\n columns={\n \"Reputation\": \"user_reputation\",\n \"DisplayName\": \"username\",\n \"Id\": \"OwnerUserId\",\n }\n )\n\n path = stackexchange_dir / \"Posts.xml\"\n columns = [\n \"AcceptedAnswerId\",\n \"AnswerCount\",\n \"Body\",\n \"ClosedDate\",\n \"CommentCount\",\n \"CreationDate\",\n \"FavoriteCount\",\n \"Id\",\n \"LastActivityDate\",\n \"OwnerUserId\",\n \"ParentId\",\n \"PostTypeId\",\n \"Score\",\n \"Title\",\n \"ViewCount\",\n ]\n\n root = et.parse(path)\n posts_df = xml_to_pandas(root, columns)\n\n question_columns = [\n \"Id\",\n \"CreationDate\",\n \"Score\",\n \"ViewCount\",\n \"Body\",\n \"OwnerUserId\",\n \"LastActivityDate\",\n \"Title\",\n \"AnswerCount\",\n \"CommentCount\",\n \"FavoriteCount\",\n \"AcceptedAnswerId\",\n \"ClosedDate\",\n ]\n\n answer_columns = [\n \"Id\",\n \"CreationDate\",\n \"Score\",\n \"Body\",\n \"OwnerUserId\",\n \"LastActivityDate\",\n \"CommentCount\",\n \"ParentId\",\n ]\n\n question_df = posts_df[posts_df[\"PostTypeId\"] == \"1\"][question_columns]\n answer_df = posts_df[posts_df[\"PostTypeId\"] == \"2\"][answer_columns]\n\n answer_df = answer_df.merge(user_df, on=\"OwnerUserId\")\n question_df = question_df.merge(user_df, on=\"OwnerUserId\")\n\n answer_df.to_csv(output_dir / \"answers.tsv\", sep=\"\\t\", index=False)\n question_df.to_csv(output_dir / \"questions.tsv\", sep=\"\\t\", index=False)\n\n return question_df, answer_df\n\n\ndef parse_dumps(path_to_dump, out_dir):\n dumps = list(path_to_dump.glob(\"*com\"))\n dumps = [path for path in dumps if \".meta\" not in path.name]\n\n outputs = [out_dir / path.name for path in dumps]\n for path in outputs:\n if not path.exists():\n os.makedirs(str(path))\n\n with Pool(cpu_count()) as pool:\n list(tqdm(pool.imap(parse_xml_dump, zip(dumps, outputs)), total=len(dumps)))\n\n\ndef main():\n MAIN_URL = \"https://archive.org/download/stackexchange/\"\n\n # for demonstration, we download only some catalogs\n # change this if you'd like to download the whole dump\n SAMPLE = 5\n\n # Here we'll be storing the StackExchange dump\n PATH_TO_SX_DUMP = Path(\"input/sx_dump\")\n OUT_DIR = PATH_TO_SX_DUMP / \"stackexchange_parsed\"\n\n if not os.path.exists(PATH_TO_SX_DUMP):\n os.makedirs(PATH_TO_SX_DUMP)\n\n if not os.path.exists(OUT_DIR):\n os.makedirs(OUT_DIR)\n\n links = get_urls(main_url=MAIN_URL, path_to_dump=PATH_TO_SX_DUMP)\n\n print(f\"Fetched {len(links)} links to download data.\")\n\n download_and_unzip_data(\n main_url=MAIN_URL, links=links[1:SAMPLE], path_to_dump=PATH_TO_SX_DUMP\n )\n\n parse_dumps(path_to_dump=PATH_TO_SX_DUMP, out_dir=OUT_DIR)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n main()\n" }, { "path": "step1_lm_finetuning/train_stackx_lm.py", "content": "import os\nfrom copy import deepcopy\nfrom multiprocessing import cpu_count\nfrom pathlib import Path\nimport numpy as np\nimport pandas as pd\nimport torch\nfrom callbacks import CSVParamLogger\nfrom poutyne.framework import Model, ModelCheckpoint\nfrom poutyne.framework.callbacks import Callback\nfrom poutyne.framework.metrics import EpochMetric\nfrom pytorch_transformers import BertConfig, BertForPreTraining\nfrom scipy.stats import spearmanr, rankdata\nfrom sklearn.model_selection import train_test_split\nfrom torch import nn\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader\nfrom torch.utils.data.sampler import RandomSampler\nfrom tqdm import tqdm\nfrom transformers import AdamW\nfrom transformers import BertTokenizer\nfrom utils import torch_to_numpy\n\nfrom data import QuestDataset\n\nTARGETS = [\n \"question_score\",\n \"question_views\",\n \"question_favs\",\n \"answer_score\",\n \"is_answer_accepted\",\n]\n\n# change paths here!\nPATH_TO_DATA = Path(\"input\")\nPATH_TO_CKPT_CONFIG = Path(\"step1_lm_finetuning/data/\")\n\n# for a toy example, change to 600000 for real LM training\nLEN_TO_SAMPLE = 50\nSEED = 17\nBATCH_SIZE = 1\nNUM_WORKERS = 8\n# change to some 20, need to track loss as well\nN_EPOCHS = 3\nLRATE = 1e-5\nBATCHES_PER_STEP = 32\n\n# the trained LM will be saved here\ncheckpoint_dir = PATH_TO_DATA / \"stackx-base-cased\"\nstackx_data = pd.read_csv(\n PATH_TO_DATA / \"qa_stackexchange_cleaned.csv\", nrows=LEN_TO_SAMPLE\n)\n\nstackx_data[\"question_title\"] = stackx_data[\"question_title\"].astype(str)\nstackx_data[\"question_body\"] = stackx_data[\"question_body\"].astype(str)\nstackx_data[\"answer\"] = stackx_data[\"answer\"].astype(str)\n\n\nclass QuestMLMDataset(QuestDataset):\n def __init__(\n self,\n data_df,\n tokenizer,\n max_seg_length=512,\n answer_ratio=0.5,\n use_title=True,\n use_body=True,\n use_answer=True,\n title_col=\"question_title\",\n body_col=\"question_body\",\n answer_col=\"answer\",\n mlm_probability=0.15,\n non_masked_idx=-1,\n padding_idx=0,\n sop_prob=0.5,\n target_cols=TARGETS,\n ):\n super(QuestMLMDataset, self).__init__(\n data_df=data_df,\n tokenizer=tokenizer,\n max_seg_length=max_seg_length,\n target_cols=target_cols,\n answer_ratio=answer_ratio,\n use_title=use_title,\n use_body=use_body,\n use_answer=use_answer,\n title_col=title_col,\n body_col=body_col,\n answer_col=answer_col,\n )\n self.mlm_probability = mlm_probability\n self.sop_prob = sop_prob\n self.non_masked_idx = non_masked_idx\n self.padding_idx = padding_idx\n self.cls_token_idx = tokenizer.convert_tokens_to_ids(tokenizer.cls_token)\n self.sep_token_idx = tokenizer.convert_tokens_to_ids(tokenizer.sep_token)\n self.mask_token_idx = tokenizer.convert_tokens_to_ids(tokenizer.mask_token)\n\n def _mask_tokens(self, inputs, masked_random_replace_prob=0.2):\n \"\"\" Prepare masked tokens inputs/labels for masked language modeling: 80% MASK, 10% random, 10% original. \"\"\"\n labels = inputs.clone()\n # We sample a few tokens in each sequence for masked-LM training\n # (with probability args.mlm_probability defaults to 0.15 in Bert/RoBERTa)\n masked_indices = torch.bernoulli(\n torch.full(labels.shape, self.mlm_probability)\n ).bool()\n for special_token in [self.cls_token_idx, self.sep_token_idx, self.padding_idx]:\n masked_indices &= inputs != special_token\n labels[\n ~masked_indices\n ] = self.non_masked_idx # We only compute loss on masked tokens\n # 80% of the time, we replace masked input tokens with tokenizer.mask_token ([MASK])\n indices_replaced = (\n torch.bernoulli(\n torch.full(labels.shape, 1 - masked_random_replace_prob)\n ).bool()\n & masked_indices\n )\n inputs[indices_replaced] = self.mask_token_idx\n # 10% of the time, we replace masked input tokens with random word\n indices_random = (\n torch.bernoulli(torch.full(labels.shape, 0.5)).bool()\n & masked_indices\n & ~indices_replaced\n )\n random_words = torch.randint(\n len(self.tokenizer), labels.shape, dtype=torch.long\n )\n inputs[indices_random] = random_words[indices_random]\n # The rest of the time (10% of the time) we keep the masked input tokens unchanged\n return inputs, labels\n\n def __getitem__(self, index):\n title, body, answer = self._get_text(index)\n numeric_targets = torch.FloatTensor(self.targets[index].astype(np.float32))\n sop_label = 0\n if np.random.uniform(0, 1) < self.sop_prob:\n sop_label = 1\n permutation = list(np.random.permutation(range(3)))\n if permutation == [0, 1, 2]:\n permutation = [0, 2, 1]\n title, body, answer = [[title, body, answer][i] for i in permutation]\n input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids = self._process(title, body, answer)\n input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids = map(\n torch.LongTensor, [input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids]\n )\n input_ids, labels = self._mask_tokens(torch.LongTensor(input_ids))\n return (\n (input_ids, token_type_ids, attention_mask),\n (labels, sop_label, numeric_targets),\n )\n\n\n# Normalize aux targets\n\n\nencoded = []\ntrange = tqdm(stackx_data[\"host\"].unique())\nfor host in trange:\n host_mask = stackx_data[\"host\"] == host\n trange.set_description(str(host))\n host_labels = deepcopy(stackx_data[host_mask][TARGETS])\n for col in [\"question_score\", \"question_views\", \"question_favs\", \"answer_score\"]:\n host_labels[col] = rankdata(stackx_data[host_mask][col]) / host_mask.sum()\n encoded.append(host_labels)\n\nencoded = pd.concat(encoded, sort=False).reindex(stackx_data.index)\nstackx_data[encoded.columns] = encoded\n\ntrain_df, test_df = train_test_split(stackx_data, test_size=0.1, random_state=SEED)\n\ntokenizer = BertTokenizer(\n str(PATH_TO_CKPT_CONFIG / \"vocab.txt\"), do_basic_tokenize=True, do_lower_case=False\n)\n\ntrain_dataset = QuestMLMDataset(train_df, tokenizer, target_cols=TARGETS)\nval_dataset = QuestMLMDataset(test_df, tokenizer, target_cols=TARGETS)\n\n\nclass BertPretrain(BertForPreTraining):\n def __init__(self, config, num_labels):\n super(BertPretrain, self).__init__(config,)\n\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(config.hidden_dropout_prob)\n self.classifier = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, num_labels)\n\n def forward(\n self,\n input_ids,\n token_type_ids=None,\n attention_mask=None,\n masked_lm_labels=None,\n next_sentence_label=None,\n position_ids=None,\n head_mask=None,\n ):\n outputs = self.bert(\n input_ids,\n position_ids=position_ids,\n token_type_ids=token_type_ids,\n attention_mask=attention_mask,\n head_mask=head_mask,\n )\n\n sequence_output, pooled_output = outputs[:2]\n prediction_scores, seq_relationship_score = self.cls(\n sequence_output, pooled_output\n )\n\n mean_pooled_output = torch.mean(sequence_output, dim=1)\n mean_pooled_output = self.dropout(mean_pooled_output)\n logits = self.classifier(mean_pooled_output)\n\n outputs = (prediction_scores, seq_relationship_score, logits)\n return outputs\n\n\nconfig = BertConfig(str(PATH_TO_CKPT_CONFIG / \"config.json\"))\nmodel = BertPretrain(config, len(TARGETS))\n\n# Prepare extended bert embedding\norig_bert = BertForPreTraining.from_pretrained(\"bert-base-cased\")\norig_tokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained(\"bert-base-cased\")\n\nstate_dict = orig_bert.state_dict()\ndel state_dict[\"cls.predictions.decoder.weight\"], state_dict[\"cls.predictions.bias\"]\n\norig_embedding = state_dict[\"bert.embeddings.word_embeddings.weight\"]\n\nextra_tokens = list(tokenizer.vocab.keys())[len(orig_tokenizer.vocab) :]\nnew_tokens_as_orig_indices = [[i] for i in range(len(orig_tokenizer.vocab))] + [\n orig_tokenizer.encode(t, add_special_tokens=False) for t in extra_tokens\n]\n\nnew_embedding = torch.zeros(len(new_tokens_as_orig_indices), orig_embedding.shape[-1])\nnew_embedding.normal_(mean=0.0, std=0.02)\n\nfor row, indices in enumerate(new_tokens_as_orig_indices):\n if len(indices) > 0:\n new_embedding[row] = orig_embedding[indices].mean(0)\n\nstate_dict[\"bert.embeddings.word_embeddings.weight\"] = new_embedding\n\n# Load original pretrained weight with extended embedding layer\nmodel.load_state_dict(state_dict, strict=False)\nmodel.tie_weights()\n\ndevice = \"cuda\"\n\nsteps_per_epoch = LEN_TO_SAMPLE // BATCH_SIZE\n\nsampler = RandomSampler(\n train_dataset,\n num_samples=steps_per_epoch * BATCH_SIZE if steps_per_epoch is not None else None,\n replacement=True if steps_per_epoch is not None else False,\n)\n\nif NUM_WORKERS is None:\n NUM_WORKERS = cpu_count()\n\ntrain_loader = DataLoader(\n train_dataset, sampler=sampler, batch_size=BATCH_SIZE, num_workers=NUM_WORKERS\n)\nval_loader = DataLoader(\n val_dataset, shuffle=False, batch_size=BATCH_SIZE, num_workers=NUM_WORKERS\n)\n\n\ndef spearman_metric(y_true, y_pred, return_scores=False, colnames=None):\n corr = [\n spearmanr(pred_col, target_col).correlation\n for pred_col, target_col in zip(y_pred.T, y_true.T)\n ]\n if colnames is not None:\n return pd.Series(corr, index=colnames)\n if return_scores:\n return corr\n else:\n return np.nanmean(corr)\n\n\nclass Spearman(EpochMetric):\n class SpearmanCallback(Callback):\n def __init__(self):\n self.metric_values = dict()\n\n def on_epoch_end(self, epoch, logs):\n logs.update(self.metric_values)\n\n def __init__(self, colnames=None):\n super(Spearman, self).__init__()\n self.__name__ = \"spearman\"\n self.preds, self.targets = [], []\n\n self.colnames = colnames\n self.callback = self.SpearmanCallback()\n\n def forward(self, logits, targets):\n y_pred, y_true = logits[2], targets[2]\n self.preds.append(torch_to_numpy(y_pred))\n self.targets.append(torch_to_numpy(y_true))\n\n def get_metric(self):\n corr = spearman_metric(\n np.vstack(self.targets), np.vstack(self.preds), return_scores=True\n )\n\n if self.colnames is not None:\n self.callback.metric_values = dict(zip(self.colnames, corr))\n\n self.preds, self.targets = [], []\n return np.mean(corr)\n\n\nclass MaskLMCrossEntropyLoss(torch.nn.CrossEntropyLoss):\n def forward(self, logits, targets):\n n_samples = np.prod(targets.shape)\n loss = super(MaskLMCrossEntropyLoss, self).forward(\n logits.view(n_samples, -1), targets.view(n_samples)\n )\n return loss\n\n\nclass SOPCrossEntropyLoss(torch.nn.CrossEntropyLoss):\n def forward(self, logits, targets):\n loss = super(SOPCrossEntropyLoss, self).forward(\n logits.view(-1, 2), targets.view(-1)\n )\n return loss\n\n\nclass PretrainingLoss(torch.nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, targets_alpha=1.0):\n super(PretrainingLoss, self).__init__()\n self.mlm_loss = MaskLMCrossEntropyLoss(ignore_index=-1)\n self.sop_loss = SOPCrossEntropyLoss()\n self.bce = torch.nn.BCEWithLogitsLoss()\n self.targets_alpha = targets_alpha\n\n def forward(self, logits, targets):\n return (\n self.mlm_loss(logits[0], targets[0])\n + self.sop_loss(logits[1], targets[1])\n + self.targets_alpha * self.bce(logits[2], targets[2])\n )\n\n\nclass MaskLMPerplexity(MaskLMCrossEntropyLoss):\n __name__ = \"mlm_perplexity\"\n\n def forward(self, logits, targets):\n logits, targets = logits[0], targets[0]\n loss = super(MaskLMPerplexity, self).forward(logits, targets)\n perplexity = 2 ** loss\n return float(perplexity)\n\n\ndef sop_accuracy(logits, targets):\n logits, targets = logits[1], targets[1]\n pred = torch.argmax(logits.view(-1, 2), dim=-1)\n targets = targets.view(-1)\n return float(torch.mean((pred == targets).float()))\n\n\nspearman = Spearman(TARGETS)\n\ntrainer = Model(\n model,\n AdamW(model.parameters(), lr=LRATE),\n loss_function=PretrainingLoss(),\n batch_metrics=[MaskLMPerplexity(ignore_index=-1), sop_accuracy],\n epoch_metrics=[spearman],\n)\n\nif not checkpoint_dir.exists():\n os.makedirs(str(checkpoint_dir))\n\ncheckpoint_name = \"stackx_base_with_aux_ep_{epoch:03}_val_perplexity_{val_mlm_perplexity:.2f}_val_spearman_{val_spearman:.2f}.pth\"\n\ncallbacks = [\n spearman.callback,\n ModelCheckpoint(str(checkpoint_dir / checkpoint_name)),\n CSVParamLogger(str(checkpoint_dir / \"training_log.csv\"), extra_metrics=TARGETS),\n]\ntrainer.to(device)\n\nhistory = trainer.fit_generator(\n train_loader,\n val_loader,\n epochs=N_EPOCHS,\n batches_per_step=BATCHES_PER_STEP,\n callbacks=callbacks,\n)\n\ntorch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n# prepare the latest checkpoint for further finetuning\nlatest_ckpt = sorted(list(checkpoint_dir.glob(\"stackx_base_with_au*\")))[-1]\nstate_dict = torch.load(latest_ckpt)\n# we'll be adapting classification for 30 targets, so delete classifier weights\ndel state_dict[\"classifier.bias\"]\ndel state_dict[\"classifier.weight\"]\ntorch.save(state_dict, checkpoint_dir / \"pytorch_model.bin\")\n# also need config and vocabulary to reuse the model\nos.system(f\"cp {str(PATH_TO_CKPT_CONFIG / 'vocab.txt')} {str(checkpoint_dir)}\")\nos.system(f\"cp {str(PATH_TO_CKPT_CONFIG / 'config.json')} {str(checkpoint_dir)}\")\n" }, { "path": "step1_lm_finetuning/utils.py", "content": "from copy import deepcopy\n\nimport torch\nimport numpy as np\nimport pandas as pd\nfrom scipy.stats import rankdata\n\nfrom data.dataset import ALL_TARGETS\n\n\ndef encode_labels(df, target_columns=ALL_TARGETS, method=\"average\"):\n target_columns = [t for t in target_columns if t in df]\n df = deepcopy(df)\n\n ranked = [rankdata(df[col], method=method).reshape(-1, 1) for col in target_columns]\n ranked = np.hstack(ranked) - 1\n df[target_columns] = ranked\n\n return df\n\n\ndef transform_target_columns_to_ordinals(\n df, target_columns=ALL_TARGETS, return_label_groups=False\n):\n target_columns = [t for t in target_columns if t in df]\n rank_labels = encode_labels(df, target_columns, method=\"dense\")\n\n ordinal_labels = []\n for col in target_columns:\n col_labels = rank_labels[col]\n\n new_col_names = [col + \"_\" + str(i) for i in sorted(np.unique(col_labels))]\n new_col_names = new_col_names[1:]\n ordinals = np.array(\n [[1] * label + [0] * (len(new_col_names) - label) for label in col_labels]\n )\n\n ordinals = pd.DataFrame(ordinals, columns=new_col_names, index=df.index)\n ordinal_labels.append(ordinals)\n ordinal_labels = pd.concat(ordinal_labels, axis=1)\n\n if return_label_groups:\n label_groups = {label: [] for label in target_columns}\n for label_idx, label in enumerate(ordinal_labels.columns):\n for group in label_groups:\n if label.startswith(group):\n label_groups[group].append(label_idx)\n\n return ordinal_labels, label_groups\n else:\n return ordinal_labels\n\n\ndef torch_to_numpy(obj, copy=False):\n \"\"\"\n Convert to Numpy arrays all tensors inside a Python object composed of the supported types.\n\n Args:\n obj: The Python object to convert.\n copy (bool): Whether to copy the memory. By default, if a tensor is already on CPU, the\n Numpy array will be a view of the tensor.\n\n Returns:\n A new Python object with the same structure as `obj` but where the tensors are now Numpy\n arrays. Not supported type are left as reference in the new object.\n\n Example:\n .. code-block:: python\n\n >>> from poutyne import torch_to_numpy\n >>> torch_to_numpy({\n ... 'first': torch.tensor([1, 2, 3]),\n ... 'second':[torch.tensor([4,5,6]), torch.tensor([7,8,9])],\n ... 'third': 34\n ... })\n {\n 'first': array([1, 2, 3]),\n 'second': [array([4, 5, 6]), array([7, 8, 9])],\n 'third': 34\n }\n\n See:\n :meth:`~poutyne.torch_apply` for supported types.\n \"\"\"\n if copy:\n func = lambda t: t.cpu().detach().numpy().copy()\n else:\n func = lambda t: t.cpu().detach().numpy()\n return torch_apply(obj, func)\n\n\ndef torch_to(obj, *args, **kargs):\n return torch_apply(obj, lambda t: t.to(*args, **kargs))\n\n\ndef torch_apply(obj, func):\n \"\"\"\n Apply a function to all tensors inside a Python object composed of the supported types.\n\n Supported types are: list, tuple and dict.\n\n Args:\n obj: The Python object to convert.\n func: The function to apply.\n\n Returns:\n A new Python object with the same structure as `obj` but where the tensors have been applied\n the function `func`. Not supported type are left as reference in the new object.\n \"\"\"\n fn = lambda t: func(t) if torch.is_tensor(t) else t\n return _apply(obj, fn)\n\n\ndef _apply(obj, func):\n if isinstance(obj, (list, tuple)):\n return type(obj)(_apply(el, func) for el in obj)\n if isinstance(obj, dict):\n return {k: _apply(el, func) for k, el in obj.items()}\n return func(obj)\n\n\ndef _concat(obj):\n if isinstance(obj[0], (list, tuple)):\n return tuple([_concat(ele) for ele in zip(*obj)])\n if isinstance(obj[0], dict):\n concat_dict = {}\n for key in obj[0].keys():\n concat_dict[key] = _concat([o[key] for o in obj])\n return concat_dict\n return np.concatenate(obj)\n\n\ndef numpy_to_torch(obj):\n \"\"\"\n Convert to tensors all Numpy arrays inside a Python object composed of the supported types.\n\n Args:\n obj: The Python object to convert.\n\n Returns:\n A new Python object with the same structure as `obj` but where the Numpy arrays are now\n tensors. Not supported type are left as reference in the new object.\n\n Example:\n .. code-block:: python\n\n >>> from poutyne import numpy_to_torch\n >>> numpy_to_torch({\n ... 'first': np.array([1, 2, 3]),\n ... 'second':[np.array([4,5,6]), np.array([7,8,9])],\n ... 'third': 34\n ... })\n {\n 'first': tensor([1, 2, 3]),\n 'second': [tensor([4, 5, 6]), tensor([7, 8, 9])],\n 'third': 34\n }\n\n\n \"\"\"\n fn = lambda a: torch.from_numpy(a) if isinstance(a, np.ndarray) else a\n return _apply(obj, fn)\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-base/apply_swa.py", "content": "import os\nimport argparse\nimport logging\n\nfrom mag.experiment import Experiment\nimport mag\nimport pandas as pd\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom model import get_model_optimizer\nfrom loops import train_loop, evaluate, infer\nfrom dataset import (\n cross_validation_split,\n get_test_set,\n BucketingSampler,\n make_collate_fn,\n)\nfrom transformers import BertTokenizer, AlbertTokenizer\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader, Dataset\nfrom evaluation import target_metric\nfrom misc import target_columns, input_columns\n\nmag.use_custom_separator(\"-\")\n\nparser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--experiment\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--epochs\", type=int, nargs=\"+\", required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--data_path\", type=str, required=True)\n\nargs = parser.parse_args()\n\nexperiment = Experiment(resume_from=args.experiment)\nconfig = experiment.config\n\nlogging.getLogger(\"transformers\").setLevel(logging.ERROR)\n\ntrain_df = pd.read_csv(os.path.join(args.data_path, \"train.csv\"))\ntest_df = pd.read_csv(os.path.join(args.data_path, \"test.csv\"))\nsubmission = pd.read_csv(os.path.join(args.data_path, \"sample_submission.csv\"))\n\noriginal_args = argparse.Namespace(\n folds=config.folds,\n lr=config.lr,\n batch_size=config.batch_size,\n seed=config._seed,\n bert_model=config.bert_model.replace(\"_\", \"-\"),\n num_classes=30,\n target_columns=target_columns,\n input_columns=input_columns,\n # old models didn't have those parameters in their configs\n max_sequence_length=getattr(config, \"max_sequence_length\", 500),\n max_title_length=getattr(config, \"max_title_length\", 26),\n max_question_length=getattr(config, \"max_question_length\", 260),\n max_answer_length=getattr(config, \"max_answer_length\", 210),\n head_tail=getattr(config, \"head_tail\", True),\n use_folds=None,\n)\n\ntokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained(\n original_args.bert_model, do_lower_case=(\"uncased\" in original_args.bert_model),\n)\n\ntest_set = get_test_set(original_args, test_df, tokenizer)\ntest_loader = DataLoader(\n test_set,\n batch_sampler=BucketingSampler(\n test_set.lengths,\n batch_size=original_args.batch_size,\n maxlen=original_args.max_sequence_length,\n ),\n collate_fn=make_collate_fn(),\n)\n\nval_dfs = []\n\nfor (fold, train_set, valid_set, train_fold_df, val_fold_df,) in cross_validation_split(\n original_args, train_df, tokenizer, ignore_train=True\n):\n\n print()\n print(\"Fold:\", fold)\n print()\n\n valid_loader = DataLoader(\n valid_set,\n batch_sampler=BucketingSampler(\n valid_set.lengths,\n batch_size=original_args.batch_size,\n maxlen=original_args.max_sequence_length,\n ),\n collate_fn=make_collate_fn(),\n )\n\n fold_checkpoints = os.path.join(experiment.checkpoints, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n fold_predictions = os.path.join(experiment.predictions, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n\n criterion = nn.BCEWithLogitsLoss()\n model, optimizer = get_model_optimizer(original_args)\n\n checkpoint = os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, \"model_on_epoch_{}.pth\")\n\n state_dicts = [torch.load(checkpoint.format(epoch)) for epoch in args.epochs]\n averaged_state_dict = state_dicts[0]\n for k in averaged_state_dict:\n averaged_state_dict[k] = torch.mean(\n torch.stack([state_dict[k] for state_dict in state_dicts], dim=0), dim=0,\n )\n\n torch.save(\n averaged_state_dict,\n os.path.join(\n fold_checkpoints, \"swa_{}.pth\".format(\"_\".join(map(str, args.epochs))),\n ),\n )\n\n model.load_state_dict(averaged_state_dict)\n\n # del state_dicts\n del averaged_state_dict\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n avg_val_loss, score, val_preds = evaluate(\n original_args, model, valid_loader, criterion, val_shape=len(valid_set)\n )\n\n print(\"Fold {} score: {}\".format(fold, score))\n\n val_preds_df = val_fold_df.copy()[[\"qa_id\"] + target_columns]\n val_preds_df[target_columns] = val_preds\n val_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(\n fold_predictions, \"val_swa_{}.csv\".format(\"_\".join(map(str, args.epochs))),\n ),\n index=False,\n )\n\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n val_dfs.append(val_preds_df)\n\n test_preds = infer(original_args, model, test_loader, test_shape=len(test_set))\n test_preds_df = submission.copy()\n test_preds_df[target_columns] = test_preds\n test_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(\n fold_predictions, \"test_swa_{}.csv\".format(\"_\".join(map(str, args.epochs))),\n ),\n index=False,\n )\n\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n print()\n\n\noof_df = pd.concat(val_dfs).reset_index(drop=True)\noof_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(\n experiment.predictions,\n \"oof_swa_{}.csv\".format(\"_\".join(map(str, args.epochs))),\n ),\n index=False,\n)\n\nprint(\"Final metric:\", target_metric(oof_df, train_df))\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-base/args.py", "content": "import argparse\n\nparser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--data_path\", type=str, default=\"../input/\")\nparser.add_argument(\n \"--toy\", type=str, default=\"False\", help=\"Whether to run with a toy example\"\n)\nparser.add_argument(\"--pseudo_file\", type=str)\nparser.add_argument(\"--n_pseudo\", type=int)\nparser.add_argument(\"--seed\", type=int, default=42)\nparser.add_argument(\"--folds\", type=int, default=5)\nparser.add_argument(\"--use_folds\", type=int, nargs=\"+\")\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--label\", type=str, default=\"qa\")\nparser.add_argument(\"--bert_model\", type=str, default=\"bert-large-uncased\")\nparser.add_argument(\"--batch_size\", type=int, default=8)\nparser.add_argument(\"--batch_accumulation\", type=int, default=4)\nparser.add_argument(\"--epochs\", type=int, default=5)\nparser.add_argument(\"--lr\", type=float, default=2e-5)\nparser.add_argument(\"--warmup\", type=int, default=200)\n\n# loss\nparser.add_argument(\"--num_classes\", type=int, default=30)\nparser.add_argument(\"--workers\", type=int, default=8)\n\n# tokenization\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_sequence_length\", type=int, default=290)\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_title_length\", type=int, default=30)\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_question_length\", type=int, default=128)\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_answer_length\", type=int, default=128)\nparser.add_argument(\"--head_tail\", type=str, default=\"True\")\n\n# infer\nparser.add_argument(\"--sub_file\", type=str, default=\"submission.csv\")\n\nargs = parser.parse_args()\n\nfor arg in [\"head_tail\"]:\n args.__dict__[arg] = args.__dict__[arg] == \"True\"\n\nfor arg in [\"lr\"]:\n args.__dict__[arg] = float(args.__dict__[arg])\nprint(\"Initial arguments\", args)\n\nargs.__dict__[\"input_columns\"] = [\"question_title\", \"question_body\", \"answer\"]\nargs.__dict__[\"target_columns\"] = [\n \"question_asker_intent_understanding\",\n \"question_body_critical\",\n \"question_conversational\",\n \"question_expect_short_answer\",\n \"question_fact_seeking\",\n \"question_has_commonly_accepted_answer\",\n \"question_interestingness_others\",\n \"question_interestingness_self\",\n \"question_multi_intent\",\n \"question_not_really_a_question\",\n \"question_opinion_seeking\",\n \"question_type_choice\",\n \"question_type_compare\",\n \"question_type_consequence\",\n \"question_type_definition\",\n \"question_type_entity\",\n \"question_type_instructions\",\n \"question_type_procedure\",\n \"question_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"question_type_spelling\",\n \"question_well_written\",\n \"answer_helpful\",\n \"answer_level_of_information\",\n \"answer_plausible\",\n \"answer_relevance\",\n \"answer_satisfaction\",\n \"answer_type_instructions\",\n \"answer_type_procedure\",\n \"answer_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"answer_well_written\",\n]\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-base/dataset.py", "content": "from math import floor, ceil\n\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nfrom sklearn.model_selection import GroupKFold\nfrom torch.utils.data.dataloader import default_collate\nfrom tqdm import tqdm\n\n\ndef _get_masks(tokens, max_seq_length):\n \"\"\"Mask for padding\"\"\"\n if len(tokens) > max_seq_length:\n raise IndexError(\"Token length more than max seq length!\")\n return [1] * len(tokens) # + [0] * (max_seq_length - len(tokens))\n\n\ndef _get_segments(tokens, max_seq_length):\n \"\"\"Segments: 0 for the first sequence, 1 for the second\"\"\"\n\n if len(tokens) > max_seq_length:\n raise IndexError(\"Token length more than max seq length!\")\n\n segments = []\n first_sep = True\n current_segment_id = 0\n\n for token in tokens:\n segments.append(current_segment_id)\n if token == \"[SEP]\":\n if first_sep:\n first_sep = False\n else:\n current_segment_id = 1\n return segments # + [0] * (max_seq_length - len(tokens))\n\n\ndef _get_ids(tokens, tokenizer, max_seq_length):\n \"\"\"Token ids from Tokenizer vocab\"\"\"\n\n token_ids = tokenizer.convert_tokens_to_ids(tokens)\n input_ids = token_ids # + [0] * (max_seq_length - len(token_ids))\n return input_ids\n\n\ndef _trim_input(\n args,\n tokenizer,\n title,\n question,\n answer,\n max_sequence_length=290,\n t_max_len=30,\n q_max_len=128,\n a_max_len=128,\n):\n # SICK THIS IS ALL SEEMS TO BE SICK\n\n t = tokenizer.tokenize(title)\n q = tokenizer.tokenize(question)\n a = tokenizer.tokenize(answer)\n\n t_len = len(t)\n q_len = len(q)\n a_len = len(a)\n\n if (t_len + q_len + a_len + 4) > max_sequence_length:\n\n if t_max_len > t_len:\n t_new_len = t_len\n a_max_len = a_max_len + floor((t_max_len - t_len) / 2)\n q_max_len = q_max_len + ceil((t_max_len - t_len) / 2)\n else:\n t_new_len = t_max_len\n\n if a_max_len > a_len:\n a_new_len = a_len\n q_new_len = q_max_len + (a_max_len - a_len)\n elif q_max_len > q_len:\n a_new_len = a_max_len + (q_max_len - q_len)\n q_new_len = q_len\n else:\n a_new_len = a_max_len\n q_new_len = q_max_len\n\n if t_new_len + a_new_len + q_new_len + 4 != max_sequence_length:\n raise ValueError(\n \"New sequence length should be %d, but is %d\"\n % (max_sequence_length, (t_new_len + a_new_len + q_new_len + 4))\n )\n q_len_head = round(q_new_len / 2)\n q_len_tail = -1 * (q_new_len - q_len_head)\n a_len_head = round(a_new_len / 2)\n a_len_tail = -1 * (a_new_len - a_len_head) ## Head+Tail method .\n t = t[:t_new_len]\n if args.head_tail:\n q = q[:q_len_head] + q[q_len_tail:]\n a = a[:a_len_head] + a[a_len_tail:]\n else:\n q = q[:q_new_len]\n a = a[:a_new_len] ## No Head+Tail ,usual processing\n\n return t, q, a\n\n\ndef _convert_to_bert_inputs(title, question, answer, tokenizer, max_sequence_length):\n \"\"\"Converts tokenized input to ids, masks and segments for BERT\"\"\"\n\n stoken = [\"[CLS]\"] + title + [\"[SEP]\"] + question + [\"[SEP]\"] + answer + [\"[SEP]\"]\n\n input_ids = _get_ids(stoken, tokenizer, max_sequence_length)\n input_masks = _get_masks(stoken, max_sequence_length)\n input_segments = _get_segments(stoken, max_sequence_length)\n\n return [input_ids, input_masks, input_segments]\n\n\ndef _get_stoken_output(title, question, answer, tokenizer, max_sequence_length):\n \"\"\"Converts tokenized input to ids, masks and segments for BERT\"\"\"\n\n stoken = [\"[CLS]\"] + title + [\"[SEP]\"] + question + [\"[SEP]\"] + answer + [\"[SEP]\"]\n return stoken\n\n\ndef compute_input_arays(\n args,\n df,\n columns,\n tokenizer,\n max_sequence_length,\n t_max_len=30,\n q_max_len=128,\n a_max_len=128,\n):\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments = [], [], []\n for _, instance in tqdm(\n df[columns].iterrows(), desc=\"Preparing dataset\", total=len(df), ncols=80,\n ):\n t, q, a = (\n instance.question_title,\n instance.question_body,\n instance.answer,\n )\n t, q, a = _trim_input(\n args,\n tokenizer,\n t,\n q,\n a,\n max_sequence_length,\n t_max_len,\n q_max_len,\n a_max_len,\n )\n ids, masks, segments = _convert_to_bert_inputs(\n t, q, a, tokenizer, max_sequence_length\n )\n\n input_ids.append(np.array(ids, dtype=np.int64))\n input_masks.append(np.array(masks, dtype=np.int64))\n input_segments.append(np.array(segments, dtype=np.int64))\n\n return (input_ids, input_masks, input_segments)\n\n\ndef compute_output_arrays(df, columns):\n return np.asarray(df[columns])\n\n\nclass BucketingSampler:\n def __init__(self, lengths, batch_size, maxlen=500):\n\n self.lengths = lengths\n self.batch_size = batch_size\n self.maxlen = 500\n\n self.batches = self._make_batches(lengths, batch_size, maxlen)\n\n def _make_batches(self, lengths, batch_size, maxlen):\n\n max_total_length = maxlen * batch_size\n ids = np.argsort(lengths)\n\n current_maxlen = 0\n batch = []\n batches = []\n\n for id in ids:\n current_len = len(batch) * current_maxlen\n size = lengths[id]\n current_maxlen = max(size, current_maxlen)\n new_len = current_maxlen * (len(batch) + 1)\n if new_len < max_total_length:\n batch.append(id)\n else:\n batches.append(batch)\n current_maxlen = size\n batch = [id]\n\n if batch:\n batches.append(batch)\n\n assert (sum(len(batch) for batch in batches)) == len(lengths)\n\n return batches\n\n def __len__(self):\n return len(self.batches)\n\n def __iter__(self):\n return iter(self.batches)\n\n\ndef make_collate_fn(\n padding_values={\"input_ids\": 0, \"input_masks\": 0, \"input_segments\": 0}\n):\n def _collate_fn(batch):\n\n for name, padding_value in padding_values.items():\n\n lengths = [len(sample[name]) for sample in batch]\n max_length = max(lengths)\n\n for n, size in enumerate(lengths):\n p = max_length - size\n if p:\n pad_width = [(0, p)] + [(0, 0)] * (batch[n][name].ndim - 1)\n if padding_value == \"edge\":\n batch[n][name] = np.pad(batch[n][name], pad_width, mode=\"edge\")\n else:\n batch[n][name] = np.pad(\n batch[n][name],\n pad_width,\n mode=\"constant\",\n constant_values=padding_value,\n )\n\n return default_collate(batch)\n\n return _collate_fn\n\n\nclass QuestDataset(torch.utils.data.Dataset):\n def __init__(self, inputs, lengths, labels=None):\n self.inputs = inputs\n self.labels = labels\n self.lengths = lengths\n\n @classmethod\n def from_frame(cls, args, df, tokenizer, test=False):\n \"\"\" here I put major preprocessing. why not lol\n \"\"\"\n inputs = compute_input_arays(\n args,\n df,\n args.input_columns,\n tokenizer,\n max_sequence_length=args.max_sequence_length,\n t_max_len=args.max_title_length,\n q_max_len=args.max_question_length,\n a_max_len=args.max_answer_length,\n )\n\n outputs = None\n if not test:\n outputs = compute_output_arrays(df, args.target_columns)\n outputs = torch.tensor(outputs, dtype=torch.float32)\n\n # lengths = np.argmax(inputs[0] == 0, axis=1)\n # lengths[lengths == 0] = inputs[0].shape[1]\n lengths = [len(x) for x in inputs[0]]\n\n return cls(inputs=inputs, lengths=lengths, labels=outputs)\n\n def __len__(self):\n return len(self.inputs[0])\n\n def __getitem__(self, idx):\n input_ids = self.inputs[0][idx]\n input_masks = self.inputs[1][idx]\n input_segments = self.inputs[2][idx]\n lengths = self.lengths[idx]\n\n sample = dict(\n idx=idx,\n input_ids=input_ids,\n input_masks=input_masks,\n input_segments=input_segments,\n lengths=lengths,\n )\n\n if self.labels is not None:\n labels = self.labels[idx]\n sample[\"labels\"] = labels\n\n return sample\n\n\ndef cross_validation_split(args, train_df, tokenizer, ignore_train=False):\n kf = GroupKFold(n_splits=args.folds)\n y_train = train_df[args.target_columns].values\n\n for fold, (train_index, val_index) in enumerate(\n kf.split(train_df.values, groups=train_df.question_title)\n ):\n\n if args.use_folds is not None and fold not in args.use_folds:\n continue\n\n if not ignore_train:\n train_subdf = train_df.iloc[train_index]\n train_set = QuestDataset.from_frame(args, train_subdf, tokenizer)\n else:\n train_set = None\n\n valid_set = QuestDataset.from_frame(args, train_df.iloc[val_index], tokenizer)\n\n yield (\n fold,\n train_set,\n valid_set,\n train_df.iloc[train_index],\n train_df.iloc[val_index],\n )\n\n\ndef get_pseudo_set(args, pseudo_df, tokenizer):\n return QuestDataset.from_frame(args, pseudo_df, tokenizer)\n\n\ndef get_test_set(args, test_df, tokenizer):\n return QuestDataset.from_frame(args, test_df, tokenizer, True)\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-base/evaluation.py", "content": "import pandas as pd\nfrom scipy.stats import spearmanr\nimport numpy as np\n\nfrom misc import target_columns\n\n\ndef target_metric(prediction, actual, columns=target_columns):\n\n prediction = prediction.sort_values(by=\"qa_id\").reset_index(drop=True)\n actual = actual.sort_values(by=\"qa_id\").reset_index(drop=True)\n\n assert (prediction.qa_id == actual.qa_id).all()\n\n score = 0\n for col in columns:\n score += np.nan_to_num(\n spearmanr(prediction[col], actual[col]).correlation\n ) / len(target_columns)\n return score\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-base/infer.py", "content": "import os\nimport argparse\nimport logging\n\nfrom mag.experiment import Experiment\nimport mag\nimport pandas as pd\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom model import get_model_optimizer\nfrom loops import train_loop, evaluate, infer\nfrom dataset import (\n cross_validation_split,\n get_test_set,\n BucketingSampler,\n make_collate_fn,\n)\nfrom transformers import BertTokenizer, AlbertTokenizer\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader, Dataset\nfrom evaluation import target_metric\nfrom misc import target_columns, input_columns\n\nmag.use_custom_separator(\"-\")\n\nparser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--experiment\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--checkpoint\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--dataframe\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--output_dir\", type=str, required=True)\n\nargs = parser.parse_args()\n\nexperiment = Experiment(resume_from=args.experiment)\nconfig = experiment.config\n\nlogging.getLogger(\"transformers\").setLevel(logging.ERROR)\n\ntest_df = pd.read_csv(args.dataframe)\n\noriginal_args = argparse.Namespace(\n folds=config.folds,\n lr=config.lr,\n batch_size=config.batch_size,\n seed=config._seed,\n bert_model=config._bert_model,\n num_classes=30,\n target_columns=target_columns,\n input_columns=input_columns,\n # old models didn't have those parameters in their configs\n max_sequence_length=getattr(config, \"max_sequence_length\", 500),\n max_title_length=getattr(config, \"max_title_length\", 26),\n max_question_length=getattr(config, \"max_question_length\", 260),\n max_answer_length=getattr(config, \"max_answer_length\", 210),\n head_tail=getattr(config, \"head_tail\", True),\n use_folds=None,\n)\n\ntokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained(\n original_args.bert_model, do_lower_case=(\"uncased\" in original_args.bert_model)\n)\n\ntest_set = get_test_set(original_args, test_df, tokenizer)\ntest_loader = DataLoader(\n test_set,\n batch_sampler=BucketingSampler(\n test_set.lengths,\n batch_size=original_args.batch_size,\n maxlen=original_args.max_sequence_length,\n ),\n collate_fn=make_collate_fn(),\n)\n\nos.makedirs(args.output_dir)\n\nfor fold in range(config.folds):\n\n print()\n print(\"Fold:\", fold)\n print()\n\n fold_checkpoints = os.path.join(experiment.checkpoints, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n\n model, optimizer = get_model_optimizer(original_args)\n\n checkpoint = os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, args.checkpoint)\n\n state_dict = torch.load(checkpoint)\n model.load_state_dict(state_dict)\n del state_dict\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n test_preds = infer(original_args, model, test_loader, test_shape=len(test_set))\n\n del model, optimizer\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n test_preds_df = test_df[[\"qa_id\"]].copy()\n for k, col in enumerate(target_columns):\n test_preds_df[col] = test_preds[:, k].astype(np.float32)\n test_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(args.output_dir, \"fold-{}.csv\".format(fold)), index=False,\n )\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-base/infer_pseudo.py", "content": "import os\nimport argparse\nimport logging\n\nfrom mag.experiment import Experiment\nimport mag\nimport pandas as pd\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom model import get_model_optimizer\nfrom loops import train_loop, evaluate, infer\nfrom dataset import (\n cross_validation_split,\n get_test_set,\n BucketingSampler,\n make_collate_fn,\n)\nfrom transformers import BertTokenizer, AlbertTokenizer\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader, Dataset\nfrom evaluation import target_metric\nfrom misc import target_columns, input_columns\n\nmag.use_custom_separator(\"-\")\n\nparser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--experiment\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--checkpoint\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--dataframe\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--output_dir\", type=str, required=True)\n\nargs = parser.parse_args()\n\nexperiment = Experiment(resume_from=args.experiment)\nconfig = experiment.config\n\nlogging.getLogger(\"transformers\").setLevel(logging.ERROR)\n\ntest_df = pd.read_csv(args.dataframe)\n\noriginal_args = argparse.Namespace(\n folds=config.folds,\n lr=config.lr,\n batch_size=config.batch_size,\n seed=config._seed,\n bert_model=config._bert_model,\n num_classes=30,\n target_columns=target_columns,\n input_columns=input_columns,\n # old models didn't have those parameters in their configs\n max_sequence_length=getattr(config, \"max_sequence_length\", 500),\n max_title_length=getattr(config, \"max_title_length\", 26),\n max_question_length=getattr(config, \"max_question_length\", 260),\n max_answer_length=getattr(config, \"max_answer_length\", 210),\n head_tail=getattr(config, \"head_tail\", True),\n use_folds=None,\n)\n\ntokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained(\n original_args.bert_model, do_lower_case=(\"uncased\" in original_args.bert_model)\n)\n\ntest_set = get_test_set(original_args, test_df, tokenizer)\ntest_loader = DataLoader(\n test_set,\n batch_sampler=BucketingSampler(\n test_set.lengths,\n batch_size=original_args.batch_size,\n maxlen=original_args.max_sequence_length,\n ),\n collate_fn=make_collate_fn(),\n)\n\nif not os.path.exists(args.output_dir):\n os.makedirs(args.output_dir)\n\nfor fold in range(config.folds):\n\n print()\n print(\"Fold:\", fold)\n print()\n\n fold_checkpoints = os.path.join(experiment.checkpoints, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n\n model, optimizer = get_model_optimizer(original_args)\n\n checkpoint = os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, args.checkpoint)\n\n state_dict = torch.load(checkpoint)\n model.load_state_dict(state_dict)\n del state_dict\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n test_preds = infer(original_args, model, test_loader, test_shape=len(test_set))\n\n del model, optimizer\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n test_preds_df = test_df[[\"id\", \"host\"]].copy()\n for k, col in enumerate(target_columns):\n test_preds_df[col] = test_preds[:, k].astype(np.float32)\n test_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(args.output_dir, \"fold-{}.csv\".format(fold)), index=False,\n )\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-base/loops.py", "content": "import numpy as np\nimport torch\nimport gc\nfrom scipy.stats import spearmanr\nfrom tqdm import tqdm\n\n\ndef train_loop(model, train_loader, optimizer, criterion, scheduler, args, iteration):\n model.train()\n\n avg_loss = 0.0\n\n optimizer.zero_grad()\n for idx, batch in enumerate(tqdm(train_loader, desc=\"Train\", ncols=80)):\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels = (\n batch[\"input_ids\"],\n batch[\"input_masks\"],\n batch[\"input_segments\"],\n batch[\"labels\"],\n )\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels = (\n input_ids.cuda(),\n input_masks.cuda(),\n input_segments.cuda(),\n labels.cuda(),\n )\n\n logits = model(\n input_ids=input_ids.long(),\n attention_mask=input_masks,\n token_type_ids=input_segments,\n )\n loss = criterion(logits, labels)\n\n loss.backward()\n if (iteration + 1) % args.batch_accumulation == 0:\n optimizer.step()\n scheduler.step()\n optimizer.zero_grad()\n iteration += 1\n\n avg_loss += loss.item() / (len(train_loader) * args.batch_accumulation)\n\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n gc.collect()\n return (avg_loss, iteration)\n\n\ndef evaluate(args, model, val_loader, criterion, val_shape):\n avg_val_loss = 0.0\n model.eval()\n\n valid_preds = []\n original = []\n ids = []\n\n with torch.no_grad():\n for idx, batch in enumerate(tqdm(val_loader, desc=\"Valid\", ncols=80)):\n id, input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels = (\n batch[\"idx\"],\n batch[\"input_ids\"],\n batch[\"input_masks\"],\n batch[\"input_segments\"],\n batch[\"labels\"],\n )\n ids.extend(id.cpu().numpy())\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels = (\n input_ids.cuda(),\n input_masks.cuda(),\n input_segments.cuda(),\n labels.cuda(),\n )\n\n logits = model(\n input_ids=input_ids.long(),\n attention_mask=input_masks,\n token_type_ids=input_segments,\n )\n\n avg_val_loss += criterion(logits, labels).item() / len(val_loader)\n valid_preds.extend(logits.detach().cpu().numpy())\n original.extend(labels.detach().cpu().numpy())\n\n valid_preds = np.array(valid_preds)\n original = np.array(original)\n\n score = 0\n preds = torch.sigmoid(torch.tensor(valid_preds)).numpy()\n\n for i in range(len(args.target_columns)):\n score += np.nan_to_num(spearmanr(original[:, i], preds[:, i]).correlation)\n\n return avg_val_loss, score / len(args.target_columns), preds[np.argsort(ids)]\n\n\ndef infer(args, model, test_loader, test_shape):\n test_preds = np.zeros((test_shape, args.num_classes))\n model.eval()\n\n ids = []\n test_preds = []\n\n for idx, batch in enumerate(tqdm(test_loader, desc=\"Test\", ncols=80)):\n with torch.no_grad():\n\n ids.extend(batch[\"idx\"].cpu().numpy())\n\n predictions = model(\n input_ids=batch[\"input_ids\"].cuda(),\n attention_mask=batch[\"input_masks\"].cuda(),\n token_type_ids=batch[\"input_segments\"].cuda(),\n )\n test_preds.extend(predictions.detach().cpu().numpy())\n\n test_preds = np.array(test_preds)\n\n output = torch.sigmoid(torch.tensor(test_preds)).numpy()\n return output[np.argsort(ids)]\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-base/misc.py", "content": "target_columns = [\n \"question_asker_intent_understanding\",\n \"question_body_critical\",\n \"question_conversational\",\n \"question_expect_short_answer\",\n \"question_fact_seeking\",\n \"question_has_commonly_accepted_answer\",\n \"question_interestingness_others\",\n \"question_interestingness_self\",\n \"question_multi_intent\",\n \"question_not_really_a_question\",\n \"question_opinion_seeking\",\n \"question_type_choice\",\n \"question_type_compare\",\n \"question_type_consequence\",\n \"question_type_definition\",\n \"question_type_entity\",\n \"question_type_instructions\",\n \"question_type_procedure\",\n \"question_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"question_type_spelling\",\n \"question_well_written\",\n \"answer_helpful\",\n \"answer_level_of_information\",\n \"answer_plausible\",\n \"answer_relevance\",\n \"answer_satisfaction\",\n \"answer_type_instructions\",\n \"answer_type_procedure\",\n \"answer_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"answer_well_written\",\n]\n\ninput_columns = [\"question_title\", \"question_body\", \"answer\"]\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-base/model.py", "content": "import logging\nfrom transformers.modeling_bert import BertPreTrainedModel\nfrom transformers import (\n BertTokenizer,\n BertModel,\n BertForSequenceClassification,\n BertConfig,\n AdamW,\n get_linear_schedule_with_warmup,\n get_cosine_schedule_with_warmup,\n)\n\nlogging.getLogger(\"transformers\").setLevel(logging.ERROR)\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\nfrom torch import nn\n\n\nclass Squeeze(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, dim):\n super().__init__()\n self.dim = dim\n\n def forward(self, x):\n return x.squeeze(self.dim)\n\n\nclass CustomBert(BertPreTrainedModel):\n def __init__(self, config):\n config.output_hidden_states = True\n super(CustomBert, self).__init__(config)\n self.num_labels = config.num_labels\n self.bert = BertModel(config)\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(p=0.2)\n self.high_dropout = nn.Dropout(p=0.5)\n\n n_weights = config.num_hidden_layers + 1\n weights_init = torch.zeros(n_weights).float()\n weights_init.data[:-1] = -3\n self.layer_weights = torch.nn.Parameter(weights_init)\n\n self.classifier = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, self.config.num_labels)\n\n self.init_weights()\n\n def forward(\n self,\n input_ids=None,\n attention_mask=None,\n token_type_ids=None,\n position_ids=None,\n head_mask=None,\n inputs_embeds=None,\n ):\n\n outputs = self.bert(\n input_ids,\n attention_mask=attention_mask,\n token_type_ids=token_type_ids,\n position_ids=position_ids,\n head_mask=head_mask,\n inputs_embeds=inputs_embeds,\n )\n\n hidden_layers = outputs[2]\n last_hidden = outputs[0]\n\n cls_outputs = torch.stack(\n [self.dropout(layer[:, 0, :]) for layer in hidden_layers], dim=2\n )\n cls_output = (torch.softmax(self.layer_weights, dim=0) * cls_outputs).sum(-1)\n\n # multisample dropout (wut): https://arxiv.org/abs/1905.09788\n logits = torch.mean(\n torch.stack(\n [self.classifier(self.high_dropout(cls_output)) for _ in range(5)],\n dim=0,\n ),\n dim=0,\n )\n\n outputs = logits\n # add hidden states and attention if they are here\n\n return outputs # (loss), logits, (hidden_states), (attentions)\n\n\ndef get_model_optimizer(args):\n model = CustomBert.from_pretrained(args.bert_model, num_labels=args.num_classes)\n model.cuda()\n model = nn.DataParallel(model)\n params = list(model.named_parameters())\n\n def is_backbone(n):\n return \"bert\" in n\n\n optimizer_grouped_parameters = [\n {\"params\": [p for n, p in params if is_backbone(n)], \"lr\": args.lr},\n {\"params\": [p for n, p in params if not is_backbone(n)], \"lr\": args.lr * 500},\n ]\n\n optimizer = torch.optim.AdamW(\n optimizer_grouped_parameters, lr=args.lr, weight_decay=0\n )\n\n return model, optimizer\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-base/run.py", "content": "import logging\nimport warnings\n\nwarnings.filterwarnings(\"ignore\")\n\nimport gc\nimport random\nimport os\nimport numpy as np\nimport pandas as pd\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\nfrom torch.utils.data import ConcatDataset\n\nfrom transformers import get_linear_schedule_with_warmup\nfrom model import get_model_optimizer\nfrom loops import train_loop, evaluate, infer\nfrom dataset import (\n cross_validation_split,\n get_test_set,\n get_pseudo_set,\n make_collate_fn,\n BucketingSampler,\n)\nfrom args import args\nfrom transformers import BertTokenizer\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader\n\nfrom mag.experiment import Experiment\nimport mag\n\nmag.use_custom_separator(\"-\")\n\nconfig = {\n \"_seed\": args.seed,\n \"_bert_model\": args.bert_model,\n \"batch_accumulation\": args.batch_accumulation,\n \"batch_size\": args.batch_size,\n \"warmup\": args.warmup,\n \"lr\": args.lr,\n \"folds\": args.folds,\n \"max_sequence_length\": args.max_sequence_length,\n \"max_title_length\": args.max_title_length,\n \"max_question_length\": args.max_question_length,\n \"max_answer_length\": args.max_answer_length,\n \"head_tail\": args.head_tail,\n \"label\": args.label,\n \"_pseudo_file\": args.pseudo_file,\n}\nexperiment = Experiment(config, implicit_resuming=args.use_folds is not None)\nexperiment.register_directory(\"checkpoints\")\nexperiment.register_directory(\"predictions\")\n\n\ndef seed_everything(seed: int):\n random.seed(seed)\n os.environ[\"PYTHONHASHSEED\"] = str(seed)\n np.random.seed(seed)\n torch.manual_seed(seed)\n torch.cuda.manual_seed(seed)\n torch.backends.cudnn.deterministic = True\n\n\nlogging.getLogger(\"transformers\").setLevel(logging.ERROR)\nseed_everything(args.seed)\n\n# load the data\ntrain_df = pd.read_csv(\n os.path.join(\n args.data_path, \"train_toy.csv\" if args.toy in [\"True\", \"toy\"] else \"train.csv\"\n )\n)\ntest_df = pd.read_csv(\n os.path.join(\n args.data_path, \"test_toy.csv\" if args.toy in [\"True\", \"toy\"] else \"test.csv\"\n )\n)\nsubmission = pd.read_csv(\n os.path.join(\n args.data_path,\n \"sample_submission_toy.csv\"\n if args.toy in [\"True\", \"toy\"]\n else \"sample_submission.csv\",\n )\n)\n\ntokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained(\n args.bert_model, do_lower_case=(\"uncased\" in args.bert_model)\n)\n\ntest_set = get_test_set(args, test_df, tokenizer)\ntest_loader = DataLoader(\n test_set,\n batch_sampler=BucketingSampler(\n test_set.lengths, batch_size=args.batch_size, maxlen=args.max_sequence_length\n ),\n collate_fn=make_collate_fn(),\n)\n\nfor fold, train_set, valid_set, train_fold_df, val_fold_df in cross_validation_split(\n args, train_df, tokenizer\n):\n\n print()\n print(\"Fold:\", fold)\n print()\n\n valid_loader = DataLoader(\n valid_set,\n batch_sampler=BucketingSampler(\n valid_set.lengths,\n batch_size=args.batch_size,\n maxlen=args.max_sequence_length,\n ),\n collate_fn=make_collate_fn(),\n )\n\n fold_checkpoints = os.path.join(experiment.checkpoints, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n fold_predictions = os.path.join(experiment.predictions, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n\n os.makedirs(fold_checkpoints, exist_ok=True)\n os.makedirs(fold_predictions, exist_ok=True)\n\n iteration = 0\n best_score = -1.0\n\n model, optimizer = get_model_optimizer(args)\n criterion = nn.BCEWithLogitsLoss()\n\n for epoch in range(args.epochs):\n\n epoch_train_set = train_set\n\n if args.pseudo_file is not None:\n pseudo_df = pd.read_csv(args.pseudo_file.format(fold))\n\n pseudo_set = get_pseudo_set(\n args, pseudo_df.sample(args.n_pseudo), tokenizer\n )\n\n epoch_train_set = ConcatDataset([epoch_train_set, pseudo_set])\n\n train_loader = DataLoader(\n epoch_train_set,\n batch_size=args.batch_size,\n num_workers=args.workers,\n collate_fn=make_collate_fn(),\n drop_last=True,\n shuffle=True,\n )\n\n scheduler = get_linear_schedule_with_warmup(\n optimizer,\n num_warmup_steps=args.warmup,\n num_training_steps=(\n args.epochs * len(train_loader) / args.batch_accumulation\n ),\n )\n\n avg_loss, iteration = train_loop(\n model, train_loader, optimizer, criterion, scheduler, args, iteration,\n )\n\n avg_val_loss, score, val_preds = evaluate(\n args, model, valid_loader, criterion, val_shape=len(valid_set)\n )\n\n print(\n \"Epoch {}/{}: \\t loss={:.4f} \\t val_loss={:.4f} \\t score={:.6f}\".format(\n epoch + 1, args.epochs, avg_loss, avg_val_loss, score\n )\n )\n\n torch.save(\n model.state_dict(),\n os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, \"model_on_epoch_{}.pth\".format(epoch)),\n )\n val_preds_df = val_fold_df.copy()[[\"qa_id\"] + args.target_columns]\n val_preds_df[args.target_columns] = val_preds\n val_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(fold_predictions, \"val_on_epoch_{}.csv\".format(epoch)),\n index=False,\n )\n\n test_preds = infer(args, model, test_loader, test_shape=len(test_set))\n test_preds_df = submission.copy()\n test_preds_df[args.target_columns] = test_preds\n test_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(fold_predictions, \"test_on_epoch_{}.csv\".format(epoch)),\n index=False,\n )\n\n if score > best_score:\n best_score = score\n torch.save(\n model.state_dict(), os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, \"best_model.pth\"),\n )\n val_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(fold_predictions, \"best_val.csv\"), index=False\n )\n test_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(fold_predictions, \"best_test.csv\"), index=False\n )\n del model, optimizer, criterion, scheduler\n del valid_loader, train_loader, valid_set, train_set\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n gc.collect()\n\n print()\n\nbest_val_df_files = [\n os.path.join(experiment.predictions, \"fold{}\".format(fold), \"best_val.csv\")\n for fold in range(args.folds)\n]\n\nif all(os.path.isfile(file) for file in best_val_df_files):\n best_val_dfs = [pd.read_csv(file) for file in best_val_df_files]\n # create oof df only if all folds were used\n oof_df = pd.concat(best_val_dfs).reset_index(drop=True)\n oof_df.to_csv(os.path.join(experiment.predictions, \"oof.csv\"), index=False)\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-base-pretrained/apply_swa.py", "content": "import os\nimport argparse\nimport logging\n\nfrom mag.experiment import Experiment\nimport mag\nimport pandas as pd\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom model import get_model_optimizer\nfrom loops import train_loop, evaluate, infer\nfrom dataset import (\n cross_validation_split,\n get_test_set,\n BucketingSampler,\n make_collate_fn,\n)\nfrom transformers import BertTokenizer, AlbertTokenizer\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader, Dataset\nfrom evaluation import target_metric\nfrom misc import target_columns, input_columns\n\nmag.use_custom_separator(\"-\")\n\nparser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--experiment\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--epochs\", type=int, nargs=\"+\", required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--data_path\", type=str, required=True)\n\nargs = parser.parse_args()\n\nexperiment = Experiment(resume_from=args.experiment)\nconfig = experiment.config\n\nlogging.getLogger(\"transformers\").setLevel(logging.ERROR)\n\ntrain_df = pd.read_csv(os.path.join(args.data_path, \"train.csv\"))\ntest_df = pd.read_csv(os.path.join(args.data_path, \"test.csv\"))\nsubmission = pd.read_csv(os.path.join(args.data_path, \"sample_submission.csv\"))\n\noriginal_args = argparse.Namespace(\n folds=config.folds,\n lr=config.lr,\n batch_size=config.batch_size,\n seed=config._seed,\n bert_model=config.bert_model.replace(\"_\", \"-\"),\n num_classes=30,\n target_columns=target_columns,\n input_columns=input_columns,\n # old models didn't have those parameters in their configs\n max_sequence_length=getattr(config, \"max_sequence_length\", 500),\n max_title_length=getattr(config, \"max_title_length\", 26),\n max_question_length=getattr(config, \"max_question_length\", 260),\n max_answer_length=getattr(config, \"max_answer_length\", 210),\n head_tail=getattr(config, \"head_tail\", True),\n use_folds=None,\n)\n\ntokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained(\n original_args.bert_model, do_lower_case=(\"uncased\" in original_args.bert_model),\n)\n\ntest_set = get_test_set(original_args, test_df, tokenizer)\ntest_loader = DataLoader(\n test_set,\n batch_sampler=BucketingSampler(\n test_set.lengths,\n batch_size=original_args.batch_size,\n maxlen=original_args.max_sequence_length,\n ),\n collate_fn=make_collate_fn(),\n)\n\nval_dfs = []\n\nfor (fold, train_set, valid_set, train_fold_df, val_fold_df,) in cross_validation_split(\n original_args, train_df, tokenizer, ignore_train=True\n):\n\n print()\n print(\"Fold:\", fold)\n print()\n\n valid_loader = DataLoader(\n valid_set,\n batch_sampler=BucketingSampler(\n valid_set.lengths,\n batch_size=original_args.batch_size,\n maxlen=original_args.max_sequence_length,\n ),\n collate_fn=make_collate_fn(),\n )\n\n fold_checkpoints = os.path.join(experiment.checkpoints, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n fold_predictions = os.path.join(experiment.predictions, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n\n criterion = nn.BCEWithLogitsLoss()\n model, optimizer = get_model_optimizer(original_args)\n\n checkpoint = os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, \"model_on_epoch_{}.pth\")\n\n state_dicts = [torch.load(checkpoint.format(epoch)) for epoch in args.epochs]\n averaged_state_dict = state_dicts[0]\n for k in averaged_state_dict:\n averaged_state_dict[k] = torch.mean(\n torch.stack([state_dict[k] for state_dict in state_dicts], dim=0), dim=0,\n )\n\n torch.save(\n averaged_state_dict,\n os.path.join(\n fold_checkpoints, \"swa_{}.pth\".format(\"_\".join(map(str, args.epochs))),\n ),\n )\n\n model.load_state_dict(averaged_state_dict)\n\n # del state_dicts\n del averaged_state_dict\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n avg_val_loss, score, val_preds = evaluate(\n original_args, model, valid_loader, criterion, val_shape=len(valid_set)\n )\n\n print(\"Fold {} score: {}\".format(fold, score))\n\n val_preds_df = val_fold_df.copy()[[\"qa_id\"] + target_columns]\n val_preds_df[target_columns] = val_preds\n val_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(\n fold_predictions, \"val_swa_{}.csv\".format(\"_\".join(map(str, args.epochs))),\n ),\n index=False,\n )\n\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n val_dfs.append(val_preds_df)\n\n test_preds = infer(original_args, model, test_loader, test_shape=len(test_set))\n test_preds_df = submission.copy()\n test_preds_df[target_columns] = test_preds\n test_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(\n fold_predictions, \"test_swa_{}.csv\".format(\"_\".join(map(str, args.epochs))),\n ),\n index=False,\n )\n\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n print()\n\n\noof_df = pd.concat(val_dfs).reset_index(drop=True)\noof_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(\n experiment.predictions,\n \"oof_swa_{}.csv\".format(\"_\".join(map(str, args.epochs))),\n ),\n index=False,\n)\n\nprint(\"Final metric:\", target_metric(oof_df, train_df))\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-base-pretrained/args.py", "content": "import argparse\n\nparser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--data_path\", type=str, default=\"../input/\")\nparser.add_argument(\n \"--toy\", type=str, default=\"False\", help=\"Whether to run with a toy example\"\n)\nparser.add_argument(\"--pseudo_file\", type=str)\nparser.add_argument(\"--n_pseudo\", type=int)\nparser.add_argument(\"--seed\", type=int, default=42)\nparser.add_argument(\"--folds\", type=int, default=5)\nparser.add_argument(\"--use_folds\", type=int, nargs=\"+\")\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--label\", type=str, default=\"qa\")\nparser.add_argument(\"--bert_model\", type=str, default=\"bert-large-uncased\")\nparser.add_argument(\"--batch_size\", type=int, default=8)\nparser.add_argument(\"--batch_accumulation\", type=int, default=4)\nparser.add_argument(\"--epochs\", type=int, default=5)\nparser.add_argument(\"--lr\", type=float, default=2e-5)\nparser.add_argument(\"--warmup\", type=int, default=200)\n\n# loss\nparser.add_argument(\"--num_classes\", type=int, default=30)\nparser.add_argument(\"--workers\", type=int, default=8)\n\n# tokenization\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_sequence_length\", type=int, default=290)\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_title_length\", type=int, default=30)\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_question_length\", type=int, default=128)\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_answer_length\", type=int, default=128)\nparser.add_argument(\"--head_tail\", type=str, default=\"True\")\n\n# infer\nparser.add_argument(\"--sub_file\", type=str, default=\"submission.csv\")\n\nargs = parser.parse_args()\n\nfor arg in [\"head_tail\"]:\n args.__dict__[arg] = args.__dict__[arg] == \"True\"\n\nfor arg in [\"lr\"]:\n args.__dict__[arg] = float(args.__dict__[arg])\nprint(\"Initial arguments\", args)\n\nargs.__dict__[\"input_columns\"] = [\"question_title\", \"question_body\", \"answer\"]\nargs.__dict__[\"target_columns\"] = [\n \"question_asker_intent_understanding\",\n \"question_body_critical\",\n \"question_conversational\",\n \"question_expect_short_answer\",\n \"question_fact_seeking\",\n \"question_has_commonly_accepted_answer\",\n \"question_interestingness_others\",\n \"question_interestingness_self\",\n \"question_multi_intent\",\n \"question_not_really_a_question\",\n \"question_opinion_seeking\",\n \"question_type_choice\",\n \"question_type_compare\",\n \"question_type_consequence\",\n \"question_type_definition\",\n \"question_type_entity\",\n \"question_type_instructions\",\n \"question_type_procedure\",\n \"question_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"question_type_spelling\",\n \"question_well_written\",\n \"answer_helpful\",\n \"answer_level_of_information\",\n \"answer_plausible\",\n \"answer_relevance\",\n \"answer_satisfaction\",\n \"answer_type_instructions\",\n \"answer_type_procedure\",\n \"answer_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"answer_well_written\",\n]\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-base-pretrained/dataset.py", "content": "from math import floor, ceil\n\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nfrom sklearn.model_selection import GroupKFold\nfrom torch.utils.data.dataloader import default_collate\nfrom tqdm import tqdm\n\n\ndef _get_masks(tokens, max_seq_length):\n \"\"\"Mask for padding\"\"\"\n if len(tokens) > max_seq_length:\n raise IndexError(\"Token length more than max seq length!\")\n return [1] * len(tokens) # + [0] * (max_seq_length - len(tokens))\n\n\ndef _get_segments(tokens, max_seq_length):\n \"\"\"Segments: 0 for the first sequence, 1 for the second\"\"\"\n\n if len(tokens) > max_seq_length:\n raise IndexError(\"Token length more than max seq length!\")\n\n segments = []\n first_sep = True\n current_segment_id = 0\n\n for token in tokens:\n segments.append(current_segment_id)\n if token == \"[SEP]\":\n if first_sep:\n first_sep = False\n else:\n current_segment_id = 1\n return segments # + [0] * (max_seq_length - len(tokens))\n\n\ndef _get_ids(tokens, tokenizer, max_seq_length):\n \"\"\"Token ids from Tokenizer vocab\"\"\"\n\n token_ids = tokenizer.convert_tokens_to_ids(tokens)\n input_ids = token_ids # + [0] * (max_seq_length - len(token_ids))\n return input_ids\n\n\ndef _trim_input(\n args,\n tokenizer,\n title,\n question,\n answer,\n max_sequence_length=290,\n t_max_len=30,\n q_max_len=128,\n a_max_len=128,\n):\n # SICK THIS IS ALL SEEMS TO BE SICK\n\n t = tokenizer.tokenize(title)\n q = tokenizer.tokenize(question)\n a = tokenizer.tokenize(answer)\n\n t_len = len(t)\n q_len = len(q)\n a_len = len(a)\n\n if (t_len + q_len + a_len + 4) > max_sequence_length:\n\n if t_max_len > t_len:\n t_new_len = t_len\n a_max_len = a_max_len + floor((t_max_len - t_len) / 2)\n q_max_len = q_max_len + ceil((t_max_len - t_len) / 2)\n else:\n t_new_len = t_max_len\n\n if a_max_len > a_len:\n a_new_len = a_len\n q_new_len = q_max_len + (a_max_len - a_len)\n elif q_max_len > q_len:\n a_new_len = a_max_len + (q_max_len - q_len)\n q_new_len = q_len\n else:\n a_new_len = a_max_len\n q_new_len = q_max_len\n\n if t_new_len + a_new_len + q_new_len + 4 != max_sequence_length:\n raise ValueError(\n \"New sequence length should be %d, but is %d\"\n % (max_sequence_length, (t_new_len + a_new_len + q_new_len + 4))\n )\n q_len_head = round(q_new_len / 2)\n q_len_tail = -1 * (q_new_len - q_len_head)\n a_len_head = round(a_new_len / 2)\n a_len_tail = -1 * (a_new_len - a_len_head) ## Head+Tail method .\n t = t[:t_new_len]\n if args.head_tail:\n q = q[:q_len_head] + q[q_len_tail:]\n a = a[:a_len_head] + a[a_len_tail:]\n else:\n q = q[:q_new_len]\n a = a[:a_new_len] ## No Head+Tail ,usual processing\n\n return t, q, a\n\n\ndef _convert_to_bert_inputs(title, question, answer, tokenizer, max_sequence_length):\n \"\"\"Converts tokenized input to ids, masks and segments for BERT\"\"\"\n\n stoken = [\"[CLS]\"] + title + [\"[SEP]\"] + question + [\"[SEP]\"] + answer + [\"[SEP]\"]\n\n input_ids = _get_ids(stoken, tokenizer, max_sequence_length)\n input_masks = _get_masks(stoken, max_sequence_length)\n input_segments = _get_segments(stoken, max_sequence_length)\n\n return [input_ids, input_masks, input_segments]\n\n\ndef _get_stoken_output(title, question, answer, tokenizer, max_sequence_length):\n \"\"\"Converts tokenized input to ids, masks and segments for BERT\"\"\"\n\n stoken = [\"[CLS]\"] + title + [\"[SEP]\"] + question + [\"[SEP]\"] + answer + [\"[SEP]\"]\n return stoken\n\n\ndef compute_input_arays(\n args,\n df,\n columns,\n tokenizer,\n max_sequence_length,\n t_max_len=30,\n q_max_len=128,\n a_max_len=128,\n):\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments = [], [], []\n for _, instance in tqdm(\n df[columns].iterrows(), desc=\"Preparing dataset\", total=len(df), ncols=80,\n ):\n t, q, a = (\n instance.question_title,\n instance.question_body,\n instance.answer,\n )\n t, q, a = _trim_input(\n args,\n tokenizer,\n t,\n q,\n a,\n max_sequence_length,\n t_max_len,\n q_max_len,\n a_max_len,\n )\n ids, masks, segments = _convert_to_bert_inputs(\n t, q, a, tokenizer, max_sequence_length\n )\n\n input_ids.append(np.array(ids, dtype=np.int64))\n input_masks.append(np.array(masks, dtype=np.int64))\n input_segments.append(np.array(segments, dtype=np.int64))\n\n return (input_ids, input_masks, input_segments)\n\n\ndef compute_output_arrays(df, columns):\n return np.asarray(df[columns])\n\n\nclass BucketingSampler:\n def __init__(self, lengths, batch_size, maxlen=500):\n\n self.lengths = lengths\n self.batch_size = batch_size\n self.maxlen = 500\n\n self.batches = self._make_batches(lengths, batch_size, maxlen)\n\n def _make_batches(self, lengths, batch_size, maxlen):\n\n max_total_length = maxlen * batch_size\n ids = np.argsort(lengths)\n\n current_maxlen = 0\n batch = []\n batches = []\n\n for id in ids:\n current_len = len(batch) * current_maxlen\n size = lengths[id]\n current_maxlen = max(size, current_maxlen)\n new_len = current_maxlen * (len(batch) + 1)\n if new_len < max_total_length:\n batch.append(id)\n else:\n batches.append(batch)\n current_maxlen = size\n batch = [id]\n\n if batch:\n batches.append(batch)\n\n assert (sum(len(batch) for batch in batches)) == len(lengths)\n\n return batches\n\n def __len__(self):\n return len(self.batches)\n\n def __iter__(self):\n return iter(self.batches)\n\n\ndef make_collate_fn(\n padding_values={\"input_ids\": 0, \"input_masks\": 0, \"input_segments\": 0}\n):\n def _collate_fn(batch):\n\n for name, padding_value in padding_values.items():\n\n lengths = [len(sample[name]) for sample in batch]\n max_length = max(lengths)\n\n for n, size in enumerate(lengths):\n p = max_length - size\n if p:\n pad_width = [(0, p)] + [(0, 0)] * (batch[n][name].ndim - 1)\n if padding_value == \"edge\":\n batch[n][name] = np.pad(batch[n][name], pad_width, mode=\"edge\")\n else:\n batch[n][name] = np.pad(\n batch[n][name],\n pad_width,\n mode=\"constant\",\n constant_values=padding_value,\n )\n\n return default_collate(batch)\n\n return _collate_fn\n\n\nclass QuestDataset(torch.utils.data.Dataset):\n def __init__(self, inputs, lengths, labels=None):\n self.inputs = inputs\n self.labels = labels\n self.lengths = lengths\n\n @classmethod\n def from_frame(cls, args, df, tokenizer, test=False):\n \"\"\" here I put major preprocessing. why not lol\n \"\"\"\n inputs = compute_input_arays(\n args,\n df,\n args.input_columns,\n tokenizer,\n max_sequence_length=args.max_sequence_length,\n t_max_len=args.max_title_length,\n q_max_len=args.max_question_length,\n a_max_len=args.max_answer_length,\n )\n\n outputs = None\n if not test:\n outputs = compute_output_arrays(df, args.target_columns)\n outputs = torch.tensor(outputs, dtype=torch.float32)\n\n # lengths = np.argmax(inputs[0] == 0, axis=1)\n # lengths[lengths == 0] = inputs[0].shape[1]\n lengths = [len(x) for x in inputs[0]]\n\n return cls(inputs=inputs, lengths=lengths, labels=outputs)\n\n def __len__(self):\n return len(self.inputs[0])\n\n def __getitem__(self, idx):\n input_ids = self.inputs[0][idx]\n input_masks = self.inputs[1][idx]\n input_segments = self.inputs[2][idx]\n lengths = self.lengths[idx]\n\n sample = dict(\n idx=idx,\n input_ids=input_ids,\n input_masks=input_masks,\n input_segments=input_segments,\n lengths=lengths,\n )\n\n if self.labels is not None:\n labels = self.labels[idx]\n sample[\"labels\"] = labels\n\n return sample\n\n\ndef cross_validation_split(args, train_df, tokenizer, ignore_train=False):\n kf = GroupKFold(n_splits=args.folds)\n y_train = train_df[args.target_columns].values\n\n for fold, (train_index, val_index) in enumerate(\n kf.split(train_df.values, groups=train_df.question_title)\n ):\n\n if args.use_folds is not None and fold not in args.use_folds:\n continue\n\n if not ignore_train:\n train_subdf = train_df.iloc[train_index]\n train_set = QuestDataset.from_frame(args, train_subdf, tokenizer)\n else:\n train_set = None\n\n valid_set = QuestDataset.from_frame(args, train_df.iloc[val_index], tokenizer)\n\n yield (\n fold,\n train_set,\n valid_set,\n train_df.iloc[train_index],\n train_df.iloc[val_index],\n )\n\n\ndef get_pseudo_set(args, pseudo_df, tokenizer):\n return QuestDataset.from_frame(args, pseudo_df, tokenizer)\n\n\ndef get_test_set(args, test_df, tokenizer):\n return QuestDataset.from_frame(args, test_df, tokenizer, True)\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-base-pretrained/evaluation.py", "content": "import pandas as pd\nfrom scipy.stats import spearmanr\nimport numpy as np\n\nfrom misc import target_columns\n\n\ndef target_metric(prediction, actual, columns=target_columns):\n\n prediction = prediction.sort_values(by=\"qa_id\").reset_index(drop=True)\n actual = actual.sort_values(by=\"qa_id\").reset_index(drop=True)\n\n assert (prediction.qa_id == actual.qa_id).all()\n\n score = 0\n for col in columns:\n score += np.nan_to_num(\n spearmanr(prediction[col], actual[col]).correlation\n ) / len(target_columns)\n return score\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-base-pretrained/infer.py", "content": "import os\nimport argparse\nimport logging\n\nfrom mag.experiment import Experiment\nimport mag\nimport pandas as pd\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom model import get_model_optimizer\nfrom loops import train_loop, evaluate, infer\nfrom dataset import (\n cross_validation_split,\n get_test_set,\n BucketingSampler,\n make_collate_fn,\n)\nfrom transformers import BertTokenizer, AlbertTokenizer\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader, Dataset\nfrom evaluation import target_metric\nfrom misc import target_columns, input_columns\n\nmag.use_custom_separator(\"-\")\n\nparser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--experiment\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--checkpoint\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--dataframe\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--output_dir\", type=str, required=True)\n\nargs = parser.parse_args()\n\nexperiment = Experiment(resume_from=args.experiment)\nconfig = experiment.config\n\nlogging.getLogger(\"transformers\").setLevel(logging.ERROR)\n\ntest_df = pd.read_csv(args.dataframe)\n\noriginal_args = argparse.Namespace(\n folds=config.folds,\n lr=config.lr,\n batch_size=config.batch_size,\n seed=config._seed,\n bert_model=config._bert_model,\n num_classes=30,\n target_columns=target_columns,\n input_columns=input_columns,\n # old models didn't have those parameters in their configs\n max_sequence_length=getattr(config, \"max_sequence_length\", 500),\n max_title_length=getattr(config, \"max_title_length\", 26),\n max_question_length=getattr(config, \"max_question_length\", 260),\n max_answer_length=getattr(config, \"max_answer_length\", 210),\n head_tail=getattr(config, \"head_tail\", True),\n use_folds=None,\n)\n\ntokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained(\n original_args.bert_model, do_lower_case=(\"uncased\" in original_args.bert_model)\n)\n\ntest_set = get_test_set(original_args, test_df, tokenizer)\ntest_loader = DataLoader(\n test_set,\n batch_sampler=BucketingSampler(\n test_set.lengths,\n batch_size=original_args.batch_size,\n maxlen=original_args.max_sequence_length,\n ),\n collate_fn=make_collate_fn(),\n)\n\nos.makedirs(args.output_dir)\n\nfor fold in range(config.folds):\n\n print()\n print(\"Fold:\", fold)\n print()\n\n fold_checkpoints = os.path.join(experiment.checkpoints, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n\n model, optimizer = get_model_optimizer(original_args)\n\n checkpoint = os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, args.checkpoint)\n\n state_dict = torch.load(checkpoint)\n model.load_state_dict(state_dict)\n del state_dict\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n test_preds = infer(original_args, model, test_loader, test_shape=len(test_set))\n\n del model, optimizer\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n test_preds_df = test_df[[\"qa_id\"]].copy()\n for k, col in enumerate(target_columns):\n test_preds_df[col] = test_preds[:, k].astype(np.float32)\n test_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(args.output_dir, \"fold-{}.csv\".format(fold)), index=False,\n )\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-base-pretrained/infer_pseudo.py", "content": "import os\nimport argparse\nimport logging\n\nfrom mag.experiment import Experiment\nimport mag\nimport pandas as pd\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom model import get_model_optimizer\nfrom loops import train_loop, evaluate, infer\nfrom dataset import (\n cross_validation_split,\n get_test_set,\n BucketingSampler,\n make_collate_fn,\n)\nfrom transformers import BertTokenizer, AlbertTokenizer\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader, Dataset\nfrom evaluation import target_metric\nfrom misc import target_columns, input_columns\n\nmag.use_custom_separator(\"-\")\n\nparser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--experiment\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--checkpoint\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--dataframe\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--output_dir\", type=str, required=True)\n\nargs = parser.parse_args()\n\nexperiment = Experiment(resume_from=args.experiment)\nconfig = experiment.config\n\nlogging.getLogger(\"transformers\").setLevel(logging.ERROR)\n\ntest_df = pd.read_csv(args.dataframe)\n\noriginal_args = argparse.Namespace(\n folds=config.folds,\n lr=config.lr,\n batch_size=config.batch_size,\n seed=config._seed,\n bert_model=config._bert_model,\n num_classes=30,\n target_columns=target_columns,\n input_columns=input_columns,\n # old models didn't have those parameters in their configs\n max_sequence_length=getattr(config, \"max_sequence_length\", 500),\n max_title_length=getattr(config, \"max_title_length\", 26),\n max_question_length=getattr(config, \"max_question_length\", 260),\n max_answer_length=getattr(config, \"max_answer_length\", 210),\n head_tail=getattr(config, \"head_tail\", True),\n use_folds=None,\n)\n\ntokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained(\n original_args.bert_model, do_lower_case=(\"uncased\" in original_args.bert_model)\n)\n\ntest_set = get_test_set(original_args, test_df, tokenizer)\ntest_loader = DataLoader(\n test_set,\n batch_sampler=BucketingSampler(\n test_set.lengths,\n batch_size=original_args.batch_size,\n maxlen=original_args.max_sequence_length,\n ),\n collate_fn=make_collate_fn(),\n)\n\nif not os.path.exists(args.output_dir):\n os.makedirs(args.output_dir)\n\nfor fold in range(config.folds):\n\n print()\n print(\"Fold:\", fold)\n print()\n\n fold_checkpoints = os.path.join(experiment.checkpoints, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n\n model, optimizer = get_model_optimizer(original_args)\n\n checkpoint = os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, args.checkpoint)\n\n state_dict = torch.load(checkpoint)\n model.load_state_dict(state_dict)\n del state_dict\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n test_preds = infer(original_args, model, test_loader, test_shape=len(test_set))\n\n del model, optimizer\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n test_preds_df = test_df[[\"id\", \"host\"]].copy()\n for k, col in enumerate(target_columns):\n test_preds_df[col] = test_preds[:, k].astype(np.float32)\n test_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(args.output_dir, \"fold-{}.csv\".format(fold)), index=False,\n )\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-base-pretrained/loops.py", "content": "import numpy as np\nimport torch\nimport gc\nfrom scipy.stats import spearmanr\nfrom tqdm import tqdm\n\n\ndef train_loop(model, train_loader, optimizer, criterion, scheduler, args, iteration):\n model.train()\n\n avg_loss = 0.0\n\n optimizer.zero_grad()\n for idx, batch in enumerate(tqdm(train_loader, desc=\"Train\", ncols=80)):\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels = (\n batch[\"input_ids\"],\n batch[\"input_masks\"],\n batch[\"input_segments\"],\n batch[\"labels\"],\n )\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels = (\n input_ids.cuda(),\n input_masks.cuda(),\n input_segments.cuda(),\n labels.cuda(),\n )\n\n logits = model(\n input_ids=input_ids.long(),\n attention_mask=input_masks,\n token_type_ids=input_segments,\n )\n loss = criterion(logits, labels)\n\n loss.backward()\n if (iteration + 1) % args.batch_accumulation == 0:\n optimizer.step()\n scheduler.step()\n optimizer.zero_grad()\n iteration += 1\n\n avg_loss += loss.item() / (len(train_loader) * args.batch_accumulation)\n\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n gc.collect()\n return (avg_loss, iteration)\n\n\ndef evaluate(args, model, val_loader, criterion, val_shape):\n avg_val_loss = 0.0\n model.eval()\n\n valid_preds = []\n original = []\n ids = []\n\n with torch.no_grad():\n for idx, batch in enumerate(tqdm(val_loader, desc=\"Valid\", ncols=80)):\n id, input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels = (\n batch[\"idx\"],\n batch[\"input_ids\"],\n batch[\"input_masks\"],\n batch[\"input_segments\"],\n batch[\"labels\"],\n )\n ids.extend(id.cpu().numpy())\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels = (\n input_ids.cuda(),\n input_masks.cuda(),\n input_segments.cuda(),\n labels.cuda(),\n )\n\n logits = model(\n input_ids=input_ids.long(),\n attention_mask=input_masks,\n token_type_ids=input_segments,\n )\n\n avg_val_loss += criterion(logits, labels).item() / len(val_loader)\n valid_preds.extend(logits.detach().cpu().numpy())\n original.extend(labels.detach().cpu().numpy())\n\n valid_preds = np.array(valid_preds)\n original = np.array(original)\n\n score = 0\n preds = torch.sigmoid(torch.tensor(valid_preds)).numpy()\n\n for i in range(len(args.target_columns)):\n score += np.nan_to_num(spearmanr(original[:, i], preds[:, i]).correlation)\n\n return avg_val_loss, score / len(args.target_columns), preds[np.argsort(ids)]\n\n\ndef infer(args, model, test_loader, test_shape):\n test_preds = np.zeros((test_shape, args.num_classes))\n model.eval()\n\n ids = []\n test_preds = []\n\n for idx, batch in enumerate(tqdm(test_loader, desc=\"Test\", ncols=80)):\n with torch.no_grad():\n\n ids.extend(batch[\"idx\"].cpu().numpy())\n\n predictions = model(\n input_ids=batch[\"input_ids\"].cuda(),\n attention_mask=batch[\"input_masks\"].cuda(),\n token_type_ids=batch[\"input_segments\"].cuda(),\n )\n test_preds.extend(predictions.detach().cpu().numpy())\n\n test_preds = np.array(test_preds)\n\n output = torch.sigmoid(torch.tensor(test_preds)).numpy()\n return output[np.argsort(ids)]\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-base-pretrained/misc.py", "content": "target_columns = [\n \"question_asker_intent_understanding\",\n \"question_body_critical\",\n \"question_conversational\",\n \"question_expect_short_answer\",\n \"question_fact_seeking\",\n \"question_has_commonly_accepted_answer\",\n \"question_interestingness_others\",\n \"question_interestingness_self\",\n \"question_multi_intent\",\n \"question_not_really_a_question\",\n \"question_opinion_seeking\",\n \"question_type_choice\",\n \"question_type_compare\",\n \"question_type_consequence\",\n \"question_type_definition\",\n \"question_type_entity\",\n \"question_type_instructions\",\n \"question_type_procedure\",\n \"question_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"question_type_spelling\",\n \"question_well_written\",\n \"answer_helpful\",\n \"answer_level_of_information\",\n \"answer_plausible\",\n \"answer_relevance\",\n \"answer_satisfaction\",\n \"answer_type_instructions\",\n \"answer_type_procedure\",\n \"answer_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"answer_well_written\",\n]\n\ninput_columns = [\"question_title\", \"question_body\", \"answer\"]\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-base-pretrained/model.py", "content": "import logging\nfrom transformers.modeling_bert import BertPreTrainedModel\nfrom transformers import (\n BertTokenizer,\n BertModel,\n BertForSequenceClassification,\n BertConfig,\n AdamW,\n get_linear_schedule_with_warmup,\n get_cosine_schedule_with_warmup,\n)\n\nlogging.getLogger(\"transformers\").setLevel(logging.ERROR)\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\nfrom torch import nn\n\n\nclass Squeeze(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, dim):\n super().__init__()\n self.dim = dim\n\n def forward(self, x):\n return x.squeeze(self.dim)\n\n\nclass CustomBert(BertPreTrainedModel):\n def __init__(self, config):\n config.output_hidden_states = True\n super(CustomBert, self).__init__(config)\n self.num_labels = config.num_labels\n self.bert = BertModel(config)\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(p=0.2)\n self.high_dropout = nn.Dropout(p=0.5)\n\n n_weights = config.num_hidden_layers + 1\n weights_init = torch.zeros(n_weights).float()\n weights_init.data[:-1] = -3\n self.layer_weights = torch.nn.Parameter(weights_init)\n\n self.classifier = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, self.config.num_labels)\n\n self.init_weights()\n\n def forward(\n self,\n input_ids=None,\n attention_mask=None,\n token_type_ids=None,\n position_ids=None,\n head_mask=None,\n inputs_embeds=None,\n ):\n\n outputs = self.bert(\n input_ids,\n attention_mask=attention_mask,\n token_type_ids=token_type_ids,\n position_ids=position_ids,\n head_mask=head_mask,\n inputs_embeds=inputs_embeds,\n )\n\n hidden_layers = outputs[2]\n last_hidden = outputs[0]\n\n cls_outputs = torch.stack(\n [self.dropout(layer[:, 0, :]) for layer in hidden_layers], dim=2\n )\n cls_output = (torch.softmax(self.layer_weights, dim=0) * cls_outputs).sum(-1)\n\n # multisample dropout (wut): https://arxiv.org/abs/1905.09788\n logits = torch.mean(\n torch.stack(\n [self.classifier(self.high_dropout(cls_output)) for _ in range(5)],\n dim=0,\n ),\n dim=0,\n )\n\n outputs = logits\n # add hidden states and attention if they are here\n\n return outputs # (loss), logits, (hidden_states), (attentions)\n\n\ndef get_model_optimizer(args):\n model = CustomBert.from_pretrained(args.bert_model, num_labels=args.num_classes)\n model.cuda()\n model = nn.DataParallel(model)\n params = list(model.named_parameters())\n\n def is_backbone(n):\n return \"bert\" in n\n\n optimizer_grouped_parameters = [\n {\"params\": [p for n, p in params if is_backbone(n)], \"lr\": args.lr},\n {\"params\": [p for n, p in params if not is_backbone(n)], \"lr\": args.lr * 500},\n ]\n\n optimizer = torch.optim.AdamW(\n optimizer_grouped_parameters, lr=args.lr, weight_decay=0\n )\n\n return model, optimizer\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-base-pretrained/run.py", "content": "import warnings, logging\n\nwarnings.filterwarnings(\"ignore\")\n\nimport gc\nimport random\nimport os, multiprocessing, glob\nimport numpy as np\nimport pandas as pd\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\nfrom torch.utils.data import ConcatDataset\n\nfrom transformers import get_linear_schedule_with_warmup\nfrom model import get_model_optimizer\nfrom loops import train_loop, evaluate, infer\nfrom dataset import (\n cross_validation_split,\n get_test_set,\n get_pseudo_set,\n make_collate_fn,\n BucketingSampler,\n)\nfrom args import args\nfrom transformers import BertTokenizer, AlbertTokenizer\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader, Dataset\n\nfrom mag.experiment import Experiment\nimport mag\n\nmag.use_custom_separator(\"-\")\n\nconfig = {\n \"_seed\": args.seed,\n \"_bert_model\": args.bert_model,\n \"batch_accumulation\": args.batch_accumulation,\n \"batch_size\": args.batch_size,\n \"warmup\": args.warmup,\n \"lr\": args.lr,\n \"folds\": args.folds,\n \"max_sequence_length\": args.max_sequence_length,\n \"max_title_length\": args.max_title_length,\n \"max_question_length\": args.max_question_length,\n \"max_answer_length\": args.max_answer_length,\n \"head_tail\": args.head_tail,\n \"label\": args.label,\n \"_pseudo_file\": args.pseudo_file,\n}\nexperiment = Experiment(config, implicit_resuming=args.use_folds is not None)\nexperiment.register_directory(\"checkpoints\")\nexperiment.register_directory(\"predictions\")\n\n\ndef seed_everything(seed: int):\n random.seed(seed)\n os.environ[\"PYTHONHASHSEED\"] = str(seed)\n np.random.seed(seed)\n torch.manual_seed(seed)\n torch.cuda.manual_seed(seed)\n torch.backends.cudnn.deterministic = True\n\n\nlogging.getLogger(\"transformers\").setLevel(logging.ERROR)\nseed_everything(args.seed)\n\n# load the data\ntrain_df = pd.read_csv(\n os.path.join(\n args.data_path, \"train_toy.csv\" if args.toy in [\"True\", \"toy\"] else \"train.csv\"\n )\n)\ntest_df = pd.read_csv(\n os.path.join(\n args.data_path, \"test_toy.csv\" if args.toy in [\"True\", \"toy\"] else \"test.csv\"\n )\n)\nsubmission = pd.read_csv(\n os.path.join(\n args.data_path,\n \"sample_submission_toy.csv\"\n if args.toy in [\"True\", \"toy\"]\n else \"sample_submission.csv\",\n )\n)\n\ntokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained(\n args.bert_model, do_lower_case=(\"uncased\" in args.bert_model)\n)\n\ntest_set = get_test_set(args, test_df, tokenizer)\ntest_loader = DataLoader(\n test_set,\n batch_sampler=BucketingSampler(\n test_set.lengths, batch_size=args.batch_size, maxlen=args.max_sequence_length\n ),\n collate_fn=make_collate_fn(),\n)\n\n\nfor fold, train_set, valid_set, train_fold_df, val_fold_df in cross_validation_split(\n args, train_df, tokenizer\n):\n\n print()\n print(\"Fold:\", fold)\n print()\n\n valid_loader = DataLoader(\n valid_set,\n batch_sampler=BucketingSampler(\n valid_set.lengths,\n batch_size=args.batch_size,\n maxlen=args.max_sequence_length,\n ),\n collate_fn=make_collate_fn(),\n )\n\n fold_checkpoints = os.path.join(experiment.checkpoints, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n fold_predictions = os.path.join(experiment.predictions, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n\n os.makedirs(fold_checkpoints, exist_ok=True)\n os.makedirs(fold_predictions, exist_ok=True)\n\n iteration = 0\n best_score = -1.0\n\n model, optimizer = get_model_optimizer(args)\n criterion = nn.BCEWithLogitsLoss()\n\n for epoch in range(args.epochs):\n\n epoch_train_set = train_set\n\n if args.pseudo_file is not None:\n\n pseudo_df = pd.read_csv(args.pseudo_file.format(fold))\n\n pseudo_set = get_pseudo_set(\n args, pseudo_df.sample(args.n_pseudo), tokenizer\n )\n\n epoch_train_set = ConcatDataset([epoch_train_set, pseudo_set])\n\n train_loader = DataLoader(\n epoch_train_set,\n batch_size=args.batch_size,\n num_workers=args.workers,\n collate_fn=make_collate_fn(),\n drop_last=True,\n shuffle=True,\n )\n\n scheduler = get_linear_schedule_with_warmup(\n optimizer,\n num_warmup_steps=args.warmup,\n num_training_steps=(\n args.epochs * len(train_loader) / args.batch_accumulation\n ),\n )\n\n avg_loss, iteration = train_loop(\n model, train_loader, optimizer, criterion, scheduler, args, iteration,\n )\n\n avg_val_loss, score, val_preds = evaluate(\n args, model, valid_loader, criterion, val_shape=len(valid_set)\n )\n\n print(\n \"Epoch {}/{}: \\t loss={:.4f} \\t val_loss={:.4f} \\t score={:.6f}\".format(\n epoch + 1, args.epochs, avg_loss, avg_val_loss, score\n )\n )\n\n torch.save(\n model.state_dict(),\n os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, \"model_on_epoch_{}.pth\".format(epoch)),\n )\n val_preds_df = val_fold_df.copy()[[\"qa_id\"] + args.target_columns]\n val_preds_df[args.target_columns] = val_preds\n val_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(fold_predictions, \"val_on_epoch_{}.csv\".format(epoch)),\n index=False,\n )\n\n test_preds = infer(args, model, test_loader, test_shape=len(test_set))\n test_preds_df = submission.copy()\n test_preds_df[args.target_columns] = test_preds\n test_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(fold_predictions, \"test_on_epoch_{}.csv\".format(epoch)),\n index=False,\n )\n\n if score > best_score:\n best_score = score\n torch.save(\n model.state_dict(), os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, \"best_model.pth\"),\n )\n val_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(fold_predictions, \"best_val.csv\"), index=False\n )\n test_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(fold_predictions, \"best_test.csv\"), index=False\n )\n del model, optimizer, criterion, scheduler\n del valid_loader, train_loader, valid_set, train_set\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n gc.collect()\n\n print()\n\nbest_val_df_files = [\n os.path.join(experiment.predictions, \"fold{}\".format(fold), \"best_val.csv\")\n for fold in range(args.folds)\n]\n\nif all(os.path.isfile(file) for file in best_val_df_files):\n best_val_dfs = [pd.read_csv(file) for file in best_val_df_files]\n # create oof df only if all folds were used\n oof_df = pd.concat(best_val_dfs).reset_index(drop=True)\n oof_df.to_csv(os.path.join(experiment.predictions, \"oof.csv\"), index=False)\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-large/apply_swa.py", "content": "import os\nimport argparse\nimport logging\n\nfrom mag.experiment import Experiment\nimport mag\nimport pandas as pd\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom model import get_model_optimizer\nfrom loops import train_loop, evaluate, infer\nfrom dataset import (\n cross_validation_split,\n get_test_set,\n BucketingSampler,\n make_collate_fn,\n)\nfrom transformers import BertTokenizer, AlbertTokenizer\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader, Dataset\nfrom evaluation import target_metric\nfrom misc import target_columns, input_columns\n\nmag.use_custom_separator(\"-\")\n\nparser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--experiment\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--epochs\", type=int, nargs=\"+\", required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--data_path\", type=str, required=True)\n\nargs = parser.parse_args()\n\nexperiment = Experiment(resume_from=args.experiment)\nconfig = experiment.config\n\nlogging.getLogger(\"transformers\").setLevel(logging.ERROR)\n\ntrain_df = pd.read_csv(os.path.join(args.data_path, \"train.csv\"))\ntest_df = pd.read_csv(os.path.join(args.data_path, \"test.csv\"))\nsubmission = pd.read_csv(os.path.join(args.data_path, \"sample_submission.csv\"))\n\noriginal_args = argparse.Namespace(\n folds=config.folds,\n lr=config.lr,\n batch_size=config.batch_size,\n seed=config._seed,\n bert_model=config.bert_model.replace(\"_\", \"-\"),\n num_classes=30,\n target_columns=target_columns,\n input_columns=input_columns,\n # old models didn't have those parameters in their configs\n max_sequence_length=getattr(config, \"max_sequence_length\", 500),\n max_title_length=getattr(config, \"max_title_length\", 26),\n max_question_length=getattr(config, \"max_question_length\", 260),\n max_answer_length=getattr(config, \"max_answer_length\", 210),\n head_tail=getattr(config, \"head_tail\", True),\n use_folds=None,\n)\n\ntokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained(\n original_args.bert_model, do_lower_case=(\"uncased\" in original_args.bert_model),\n)\n\ntest_set = get_test_set(original_args, test_df, tokenizer)\ntest_loader = DataLoader(\n test_set,\n batch_sampler=BucketingSampler(\n test_set.lengths,\n batch_size=original_args.batch_size,\n maxlen=original_args.max_sequence_length,\n ),\n collate_fn=make_collate_fn(),\n)\n\nval_dfs = []\n\nfor (fold, train_set, valid_set, train_fold_df, val_fold_df,) in cross_validation_split(\n original_args, train_df, tokenizer, ignore_train=True\n):\n\n print()\n print(\"Fold:\", fold)\n print()\n\n valid_loader = DataLoader(\n valid_set,\n batch_sampler=BucketingSampler(\n valid_set.lengths,\n batch_size=original_args.batch_size,\n maxlen=original_args.max_sequence_length,\n ),\n collate_fn=make_collate_fn(),\n )\n\n fold_checkpoints = os.path.join(experiment.checkpoints, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n fold_predictions = os.path.join(experiment.predictions, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n\n criterion = nn.BCEWithLogitsLoss()\n model, optimizer = get_model_optimizer(original_args)\n\n checkpoint = os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, \"model_on_epoch_{}.pth\")\n\n state_dicts = [torch.load(checkpoint.format(epoch)) for epoch in args.epochs]\n averaged_state_dict = state_dicts[0]\n for k in averaged_state_dict:\n averaged_state_dict[k] = torch.mean(\n torch.stack([state_dict[k] for state_dict in state_dicts], dim=0), dim=0,\n )\n\n torch.save(\n averaged_state_dict,\n os.path.join(\n fold_checkpoints, \"swa_{}.pth\".format(\"_\".join(map(str, args.epochs))),\n ),\n )\n\n model.load_state_dict(averaged_state_dict)\n\n # del state_dicts\n del averaged_state_dict\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n avg_val_loss, score, val_preds = evaluate(\n original_args, model, valid_loader, criterion, val_shape=len(valid_set)\n )\n\n print(\"Fold {} score: {}\".format(fold, score))\n\n val_preds_df = val_fold_df.copy()[[\"qa_id\"] + target_columns]\n val_preds_df[target_columns] = val_preds\n val_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(\n fold_predictions, \"val_swa_{}.csv\".format(\"_\".join(map(str, args.epochs))),\n ),\n index=False,\n )\n\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n val_dfs.append(val_preds_df)\n\n test_preds = infer(original_args, model, test_loader, test_shape=len(test_set))\n test_preds_df = submission.copy()\n test_preds_df[target_columns] = test_preds\n test_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(\n fold_predictions, \"test_swa_{}.csv\".format(\"_\".join(map(str, args.epochs))),\n ),\n index=False,\n )\n\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n print()\n\n\noof_df = pd.concat(val_dfs).reset_index(drop=True)\noof_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(\n experiment.predictions,\n \"oof_swa_{}.csv\".format(\"_\".join(map(str, args.epochs))),\n ),\n index=False,\n)\n\nprint(\"Final metric:\", target_metric(oof_df, train_df))\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-large/args.py", "content": "import argparse\n\nparser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--data_path\", type=str, default=\"../input/\")\nparser.add_argument(\n \"--toy\", type=str, default=\"False\", help=\"Whether to run with a toy example\"\n)\nparser.add_argument(\"--pseudo_file\", type=str)\nparser.add_argument(\"--n_pseudo\", type=int)\nparser.add_argument(\"--seed\", type=int, default=42)\nparser.add_argument(\"--folds\", type=int, default=5)\nparser.add_argument(\"--use_folds\", type=int, nargs=\"+\")\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--label\", type=str, default=\"qa\")\nparser.add_argument(\"--bert_model\", type=str, default=\"bert-large-uncased\")\nparser.add_argument(\"--batch_size\", type=int, default=8)\nparser.add_argument(\"--batch_accumulation\", type=int, default=4)\nparser.add_argument(\"--epochs\", type=int, default=5)\nparser.add_argument(\"--lr\", type=float, default=2e-5)\nparser.add_argument(\"--warmup\", type=int, default=200)\n\n# loss\nparser.add_argument(\"--num_classes\", type=int, default=30)\nparser.add_argument(\"--workers\", type=int, default=8)\n\n# tokenization\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_sequence_length\", type=int, default=290)\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_title_length\", type=int, default=30)\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_question_length\", type=int, default=128)\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_answer_length\", type=int, default=128)\nparser.add_argument(\"--head_tail\", type=str, default=\"True\")\n\n# infer\nparser.add_argument(\"--sub_file\", type=str, default=\"submission.csv\")\n\nargs = parser.parse_args()\n\nfor arg in [\"head_tail\"]:\n args.__dict__[arg] = args.__dict__[arg] == \"True\"\n\nfor arg in [\"lr\"]:\n args.__dict__[arg] = float(args.__dict__[arg])\nprint(\"Initial arguments\", args)\n\nargs.__dict__[\"input_columns\"] = [\"question_title\", \"question_body\", \"answer\"]\nargs.__dict__[\"target_columns\"] = [\n \"question_asker_intent_understanding\",\n \"question_body_critical\",\n \"question_conversational\",\n \"question_expect_short_answer\",\n \"question_fact_seeking\",\n \"question_has_commonly_accepted_answer\",\n \"question_interestingness_others\",\n \"question_interestingness_self\",\n \"question_multi_intent\",\n \"question_not_really_a_question\",\n \"question_opinion_seeking\",\n \"question_type_choice\",\n \"question_type_compare\",\n \"question_type_consequence\",\n \"question_type_definition\",\n \"question_type_entity\",\n \"question_type_instructions\",\n \"question_type_procedure\",\n \"question_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"question_type_spelling\",\n \"question_well_written\",\n \"answer_helpful\",\n \"answer_level_of_information\",\n \"answer_plausible\",\n \"answer_relevance\",\n \"answer_satisfaction\",\n \"answer_type_instructions\",\n \"answer_type_procedure\",\n \"answer_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"answer_well_written\",\n]\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-large/dataset.py", "content": "from math import floor, ceil\n\nimport torch\nfrom torch.utils.data.dataloader import default_collate\nfrom sklearn.model_selection import GroupKFold\nimport numpy as np\nfrom tqdm import tqdm\n\n\ndef _get_masks(tokens, max_seq_length):\n \"\"\"Mask for padding\"\"\"\n if len(tokens) > max_seq_length:\n raise IndexError(\"Token length more than max seq length!\")\n return [1] * len(tokens) # + [0] * (max_seq_length - len(tokens))\n\n\ndef _get_segments(tokens, max_seq_length):\n \"\"\"Segments: 0 for the first sequence, 1 for the second\"\"\"\n\n if len(tokens) > max_seq_length:\n raise IndexError(\"Token length more than max seq length!\")\n\n segments = []\n first_sep = True\n current_segment_id = 0\n\n for token in tokens:\n segments.append(current_segment_id)\n if token == \"[SEP]\":\n if first_sep:\n first_sep = False\n else:\n current_segment_id = 1\n return segments # + [0] * (max_seq_length - len(tokens))\n\n\ndef _get_ids(tokens, tokenizer, max_seq_length):\n \"\"\"Token ids from Tokenizer vocab\"\"\"\n\n token_ids = tokenizer.convert_tokens_to_ids(tokens)\n input_ids = token_ids # + [0] * (max_seq_length - len(token_ids))\n return input_ids\n\n\ndef _trim_input(\n args,\n tokenizer,\n title,\n question,\n answer,\n max_sequence_length=290,\n t_max_len=30,\n q_max_len=128,\n a_max_len=128,\n):\n # SICK THIS IS ALL SEEMS TO BE SICK\n\n t = tokenizer.tokenize(title)\n q = tokenizer.tokenize(question)\n a = tokenizer.tokenize(answer)\n\n t_len = len(t)\n q_len = len(q)\n a_len = len(a)\n\n if (t_len + q_len + a_len + 4) > max_sequence_length:\n\n if t_max_len > t_len:\n t_new_len = t_len\n a_max_len = a_max_len + floor((t_max_len - t_len) / 2)\n q_max_len = q_max_len + ceil((t_max_len - t_len) / 2)\n else:\n t_new_len = t_max_len\n\n if a_max_len > a_len:\n a_new_len = a_len\n q_new_len = q_max_len + (a_max_len - a_len)\n elif q_max_len > q_len:\n a_new_len = a_max_len + (q_max_len - q_len)\n q_new_len = q_len\n else:\n a_new_len = a_max_len\n q_new_len = q_max_len\n\n if t_new_len + a_new_len + q_new_len + 4 != max_sequence_length:\n raise ValueError(\n \"New sequence length should be %d, but is %d\"\n % (max_sequence_length, (t_new_len + a_new_len + q_new_len + 4))\n )\n q_len_head = round(q_new_len / 2)\n q_len_tail = -1 * (q_new_len - q_len_head)\n a_len_head = round(a_new_len / 2)\n a_len_tail = -1 * (a_new_len - a_len_head) ## Head+Tail method .\n t = t[:t_new_len]\n if args.head_tail:\n q = q[:q_len_head] + q[q_len_tail:]\n a = a[:a_len_head] + a[a_len_tail:]\n else:\n q = q[:q_new_len]\n a = a[:a_new_len] ## No Head+Tail ,usual processing\n\n return t, q, a\n\n\ndef _convert_to_bert_inputs(title, question, answer, tokenizer, max_sequence_length):\n \"\"\"Converts tokenized input to ids, masks and segments for BERT\"\"\"\n\n stoken = [\"[CLS]\"] + title + [\"[SEP]\"] + question + [\"[SEP]\"] + answer + [\"[SEP]\"]\n\n input_ids = _get_ids(stoken, tokenizer, max_sequence_length)\n input_masks = _get_masks(stoken, max_sequence_length)\n input_segments = _get_segments(stoken, max_sequence_length)\n\n return [input_ids, input_masks, input_segments]\n\n\ndef _get_stoken_output(title, question, answer, tokenizer, max_sequence_length):\n \"\"\"Converts tokenized input to ids, masks and segments for BERT\"\"\"\n\n stoken = [\"[CLS]\"] + title + [\"[SEP]\"] + question + [\"[SEP]\"] + answer + [\"[SEP]\"]\n return stoken\n\n\ndef compute_input_arays(\n args,\n df,\n columns,\n tokenizer,\n max_sequence_length,\n t_max_len=30,\n q_max_len=128,\n a_max_len=128,\n):\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments = [], [], []\n for _, instance in tqdm(\n df[columns].iterrows(), desc=\"Preparing dataset\", total=len(df), ncols=80,\n ):\n t, q, a = (\n instance.question_title,\n instance.question_body,\n instance.answer,\n )\n t, q, a = _trim_input(\n args,\n tokenizer,\n t,\n q,\n a,\n max_sequence_length,\n t_max_len,\n q_max_len,\n a_max_len,\n )\n ids, masks, segments = _convert_to_bert_inputs(\n t, q, a, tokenizer, max_sequence_length\n )\n\n input_ids.append(np.array(ids, dtype=np.int64))\n input_masks.append(np.array(masks, dtype=np.int64))\n input_segments.append(np.array(segments, dtype=np.int64))\n\n return (input_ids, input_masks, input_segments)\n\n\ndef compute_output_arrays(df, columns):\n return np.asarray(df[columns])\n\n\nclass BucketingSampler:\n def __init__(self, lengths, batch_size, maxlen=500):\n\n self.lengths = lengths\n self.batch_size = batch_size\n self.maxlen = 500\n\n self.batches = self._make_batches(lengths, batch_size, maxlen)\n\n def _make_batches(self, lengths, batch_size, maxlen):\n\n max_total_length = maxlen * batch_size\n ids = np.argsort(lengths)\n\n current_maxlen = 0\n batch = []\n batches = []\n\n for id in ids:\n current_len = len(batch) * current_maxlen\n size = lengths[id]\n current_maxlen = max(size, current_maxlen)\n new_len = current_maxlen * (len(batch) + 1)\n if new_len < max_total_length:\n batch.append(id)\n else:\n batches.append(batch)\n current_maxlen = size\n batch = [id]\n\n if batch:\n batches.append(batch)\n\n assert (sum(len(batch) for batch in batches)) == len(lengths)\n\n return batches\n\n def __len__(self):\n return len(self.batches)\n\n def __iter__(self):\n return iter(self.batches)\n\n\ndef make_collate_fn(\n padding_values={\"input_ids\": 0, \"input_masks\": 0, \"input_segments\": 0}\n):\n def _collate_fn(batch):\n\n for name, padding_value in padding_values.items():\n\n lengths = [len(sample[name]) for sample in batch]\n max_length = max(lengths)\n\n for n, size in enumerate(lengths):\n p = max_length - size\n if p:\n pad_width = [(0, p)] + [(0, 0)] * (batch[n][name].ndim - 1)\n if padding_value == \"edge\":\n batch[n][name] = np.pad(batch[n][name], pad_width, mode=\"edge\")\n else:\n batch[n][name] = np.pad(\n batch[n][name],\n pad_width,\n mode=\"constant\",\n constant_values=padding_value,\n )\n\n return default_collate(batch)\n\n return _collate_fn\n\n\nclass QuestDataset(torch.utils.data.Dataset):\n def __init__(self, inputs, lengths, labels=None):\n self.inputs = inputs\n self.labels = labels\n self.lengths = lengths\n\n @classmethod\n def from_frame(cls, args, df, tokenizer, test=False):\n \"\"\" here I put major preprocessing. why not lol\n \"\"\"\n inputs = compute_input_arays(\n args,\n df,\n args.input_columns,\n tokenizer,\n max_sequence_length=args.max_sequence_length,\n t_max_len=args.max_title_length,\n q_max_len=args.max_question_length,\n a_max_len=args.max_answer_length,\n )\n\n outputs = None\n if not test:\n outputs = compute_output_arrays(df, args.target_columns)\n outputs = torch.tensor(outputs, dtype=torch.float32)\n\n # lengths = np.argmax(inputs[0] == 0, axis=1)\n # lengths[lengths == 0] = inputs[0].shape[1]\n lengths = [len(x) for x in inputs[0]]\n\n return cls(inputs=inputs, lengths=lengths, labels=outputs)\n\n def __len__(self):\n return len(self.inputs[0])\n\n def __getitem__(self, idx):\n input_ids = self.inputs[0][idx]\n input_masks = self.inputs[1][idx]\n input_segments = self.inputs[2][idx]\n lengths = self.lengths[idx]\n\n sample = dict(\n idx=idx,\n input_ids=input_ids,\n input_masks=input_masks,\n input_segments=input_segments,\n lengths=lengths,\n )\n\n if self.labels is not None:\n labels = self.labels[idx]\n sample[\"labels\"] = labels\n\n return sample\n\n\ndef cross_validation_split(args, train_df, tokenizer, ignore_train=False):\n kf = GroupKFold(n_splits=args.folds)\n y_train = train_df[args.target_columns].values\n\n for fold, (train_index, val_index) in enumerate(\n kf.split(train_df.values, groups=train_df.question_title)\n ):\n\n if args.use_folds is not None and fold not in args.use_folds:\n continue\n\n if not ignore_train:\n train_subdf = train_df.iloc[train_index]\n train_set = QuestDataset.from_frame(args, train_subdf, tokenizer)\n else:\n train_set = None\n\n valid_set = QuestDataset.from_frame(args, train_df.iloc[val_index], tokenizer)\n\n yield (\n fold,\n train_set,\n valid_set,\n train_df.iloc[train_index],\n train_df.iloc[val_index],\n )\n\n\ndef get_pseudo_set(args, pseudo_df, tokenizer):\n return QuestDataset.from_frame(args, pseudo_df, tokenizer)\n\n\ndef get_test_set(args, test_df, tokenizer):\n return QuestDataset.from_frame(args, test_df, tokenizer, True)\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-large/evaluation.py", "content": "import pandas as pd\nfrom scipy.stats import spearmanr\nimport numpy as np\n\nfrom misc import target_columns\n\n\ndef target_metric(prediction, actual, columns=target_columns):\n\n prediction = prediction.sort_values(by=\"qa_id\").reset_index(drop=True)\n actual = actual.sort_values(by=\"qa_id\").reset_index(drop=True)\n\n assert (prediction.qa_id == actual.qa_id).all()\n\n score = 0\n for col in columns:\n score += np.nan_to_num(\n spearmanr(prediction[col], actual[col]).correlation\n ) / len(target_columns)\n return score\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-large/infer.py", "content": "import os\nimport argparse\nimport logging\n\nfrom mag.experiment import Experiment\nimport mag\nimport pandas as pd\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom model import get_model_optimizer\nfrom loops import train_loop, evaluate, infer\nfrom dataset import (\n cross_validation_split,\n get_test_set,\n BucketingSampler,\n make_collate_fn,\n)\nfrom transformers import BertTokenizer, AlbertTokenizer\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader, Dataset\nfrom evaluation import target_metric\nfrom misc import target_columns, input_columns\n\nmag.use_custom_separator(\"-\")\n\nparser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--experiment\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--checkpoint\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--dataframe\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--output_dir\", type=str, required=True)\n\nargs = parser.parse_args()\n\nexperiment = Experiment(resume_from=args.experiment)\nconfig = experiment.config\n\nlogging.getLogger(\"transformers\").setLevel(logging.ERROR)\n\ntest_df = pd.read_csv(args.dataframe)\n\noriginal_args = argparse.Namespace(\n folds=config.folds,\n lr=config.lr,\n batch_size=config.batch_size,\n seed=config._seed,\n bert_model=config._bert_model,\n num_classes=30,\n target_columns=target_columns,\n input_columns=input_columns,\n # old models didn't have those parameters in their configs\n max_sequence_length=getattr(config, \"max_sequence_length\", 500),\n max_title_length=getattr(config, \"max_title_length\", 26),\n max_question_length=getattr(config, \"max_question_length\", 260),\n max_answer_length=getattr(config, \"max_answer_length\", 210),\n head_tail=getattr(config, \"head_tail\", True),\n use_folds=None,\n)\n\ntokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained(\n original_args.bert_model, do_lower_case=(\"uncased\" in original_args.bert_model)\n)\n\ntest_set = get_test_set(original_args, test_df, tokenizer)\ntest_loader = DataLoader(\n test_set,\n batch_sampler=BucketingSampler(\n test_set.lengths,\n batch_size=original_args.batch_size,\n maxlen=original_args.max_sequence_length,\n ),\n collate_fn=make_collate_fn(),\n)\n\nos.makedirs(args.output_dir)\n\nfor fold in range(config.folds):\n\n print()\n print(\"Fold:\", fold)\n print()\n\n fold_checkpoints = os.path.join(experiment.checkpoints, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n\n model, optimizer = get_model_optimizer(original_args)\n\n checkpoint = os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, args.checkpoint)\n\n state_dict = torch.load(checkpoint)\n model.load_state_dict(state_dict)\n del state_dict\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n test_preds = infer(original_args, model, test_loader, test_shape=len(test_set))\n\n del model, optimizer\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n test_preds_df = test_df[[\"qa_id\"]].copy()\n for k, col in enumerate(target_columns):\n test_preds_df[col] = test_preds[:, k].astype(np.float32)\n test_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(args.output_dir, \"fold-{}.csv\".format(fold)), index=False,\n )\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-large/infer_pseudo.py", "content": "import os\nimport argparse\nimport logging\n\nfrom mag.experiment import Experiment\nimport mag\nimport pandas as pd\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom model import get_model_optimizer\nfrom loops import train_loop, evaluate, infer\nfrom dataset import (\n cross_validation_split,\n get_test_set,\n BucketingSampler,\n make_collate_fn,\n)\nfrom transformers import BertTokenizer, AlbertTokenizer\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader, Dataset\nfrom evaluation import target_metric\nfrom misc import target_columns, input_columns\n\nmag.use_custom_separator(\"-\")\n\nparser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--experiment\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--checkpoint\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--dataframe\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--output_dir\", type=str, required=True)\n\nargs = parser.parse_args()\n\nexperiment = Experiment(resume_from=args.experiment)\nconfig = experiment.config\n\nlogging.getLogger(\"transformers\").setLevel(logging.ERROR)\n\ntest_df = pd.read_csv(args.dataframe)\n\noriginal_args = argparse.Namespace(\n folds=config.folds,\n lr=config.lr,\n batch_size=config.batch_size,\n seed=config._seed,\n bert_model=config._bert_model,\n num_classes=30,\n target_columns=target_columns,\n input_columns=input_columns,\n # old models didn't have those parameters in their configs\n max_sequence_length=getattr(config, \"max_sequence_length\", 500),\n max_title_length=getattr(config, \"max_title_length\", 26),\n max_question_length=getattr(config, \"max_question_length\", 260),\n max_answer_length=getattr(config, \"max_answer_length\", 210),\n head_tail=getattr(config, \"head_tail\", True),\n use_folds=None,\n)\n\ntokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained(\n original_args.bert_model, do_lower_case=(\"uncased\" in original_args.bert_model)\n)\n\ntest_set = get_test_set(original_args, test_df, tokenizer)\ntest_loader = DataLoader(\n test_set,\n batch_sampler=BucketingSampler(\n test_set.lengths,\n batch_size=original_args.batch_size,\n maxlen=original_args.max_sequence_length,\n ),\n collate_fn=make_collate_fn(),\n)\n\nif not os.path.exists(args.output_dir):\n os.makedirs(args.output_dir)\n\nfor fold in range(config.folds):\n\n print()\n print(\"Fold:\", fold)\n print()\n\n fold_checkpoints = os.path.join(experiment.checkpoints, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n\n model, optimizer = get_model_optimizer(original_args)\n\n checkpoint = os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, args.checkpoint)\n\n state_dict = torch.load(checkpoint)\n model.load_state_dict(state_dict)\n del state_dict\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n test_preds = infer(original_args, model, test_loader, test_shape=len(test_set))\n\n del model, optimizer\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n test_preds_df = test_df[[\"id\", \"host\"]].copy()\n for k, col in enumerate(target_columns):\n test_preds_df[col] = test_preds[:, k].astype(np.float32)\n test_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(args.output_dir, \"fold-{}.csv\".format(fold)), index=False,\n )\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-large/loops.py", "content": "import numpy as np\nimport torch\nimport gc\nfrom scipy.stats import spearmanr\nfrom tqdm import tqdm\n\n\ndef train_loop(model, train_loader, optimizer, criterion, scheduler, args, iteration):\n model.train()\n\n avg_loss = 0.0\n\n optimizer.zero_grad()\n for idx, batch in enumerate(tqdm(train_loader, desc=\"Train\", ncols=80)):\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels = (\n batch[\"input_ids\"],\n batch[\"input_masks\"],\n batch[\"input_segments\"],\n batch[\"labels\"],\n )\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels = (\n input_ids.cuda(),\n input_masks.cuda(),\n input_segments.cuda(),\n labels.cuda(),\n )\n\n logits = model(\n input_ids=input_ids.long(),\n attention_mask=input_masks,\n token_type_ids=input_segments,\n )\n loss = criterion(logits, labels)\n\n loss.backward()\n if (iteration + 1) % args.batch_accumulation == 0:\n optimizer.step()\n scheduler.step()\n optimizer.zero_grad()\n iteration += 1\n\n avg_loss += loss.item() / (len(train_loader) * args.batch_accumulation)\n\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n gc.collect()\n return (avg_loss, iteration)\n\n\ndef evaluate(args, model, val_loader, criterion, val_shape):\n avg_val_loss = 0.0\n model.eval()\n\n valid_preds = []\n original = []\n ids = []\n\n with torch.no_grad():\n for idx, batch in enumerate(tqdm(val_loader, desc=\"Valid\", ncols=80)):\n id, input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels = (\n batch[\"idx\"],\n batch[\"input_ids\"],\n batch[\"input_masks\"],\n batch[\"input_segments\"],\n batch[\"labels\"],\n )\n ids.extend(id.cpu().numpy())\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels = (\n input_ids.cuda(),\n input_masks.cuda(),\n input_segments.cuda(),\n labels.cuda(),\n )\n\n logits = model(\n input_ids=input_ids.long(),\n attention_mask=input_masks,\n token_type_ids=input_segments,\n )\n\n avg_val_loss += criterion(logits, labels).item() / len(val_loader)\n valid_preds.extend(logits.detach().cpu().numpy())\n original.extend(labels.detach().cpu().numpy())\n\n valid_preds = np.array(valid_preds)\n original = np.array(original)\n\n score = 0\n preds = torch.sigmoid(torch.tensor(valid_preds)).numpy()\n\n for i in range(len(args.target_columns)):\n score += np.nan_to_num(spearmanr(original[:, i], preds[:, i]).correlation)\n\n return avg_val_loss, score / len(args.target_columns), preds[np.argsort(ids)]\n\n\ndef infer(args, model, test_loader, test_shape):\n test_preds = np.zeros((test_shape, args.num_classes))\n model.eval()\n\n ids = []\n test_preds = []\n\n for idx, batch in enumerate(tqdm(test_loader, desc=\"Test\", ncols=80)):\n with torch.no_grad():\n\n ids.extend(batch[\"idx\"].cpu().numpy())\n\n predictions = model(\n input_ids=batch[\"input_ids\"].cuda(),\n attention_mask=batch[\"input_masks\"].cuda(),\n token_type_ids=batch[\"input_segments\"].cuda(),\n )\n test_preds.extend(predictions.detach().cpu().numpy())\n\n test_preds = np.array(test_preds)\n\n output = torch.sigmoid(torch.tensor(test_preds)).numpy()\n return output[np.argsort(ids)]\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-large/misc.py", "content": "target_columns = [\n \"question_asker_intent_understanding\",\n \"question_body_critical\",\n \"question_conversational\",\n \"question_expect_short_answer\",\n \"question_fact_seeking\",\n \"question_has_commonly_accepted_answer\",\n \"question_interestingness_others\",\n \"question_interestingness_self\",\n \"question_multi_intent\",\n \"question_not_really_a_question\",\n \"question_opinion_seeking\",\n \"question_type_choice\",\n \"question_type_compare\",\n \"question_type_consequence\",\n \"question_type_definition\",\n \"question_type_entity\",\n \"question_type_instructions\",\n \"question_type_procedure\",\n \"question_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"question_type_spelling\",\n \"question_well_written\",\n \"answer_helpful\",\n \"answer_level_of_information\",\n \"answer_plausible\",\n \"answer_relevance\",\n \"answer_satisfaction\",\n \"answer_type_instructions\",\n \"answer_type_procedure\",\n \"answer_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"answer_well_written\",\n]\n\ninput_columns = [\"question_title\", \"question_body\", \"answer\"]\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-large/model.py", "content": "import logging\nfrom transformers.modeling_bert import BertPreTrainedModel\nfrom transformers import (\n BertTokenizer,\n BertModel,\n BertForSequenceClassification,\n BertConfig,\n AdamW,\n get_linear_schedule_with_warmup,\n get_cosine_schedule_with_warmup,\n)\n\nlogging.getLogger(\"transformers\").setLevel(logging.ERROR)\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\nfrom torch import nn\n\n\nclass Squeeze(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, dim):\n super().__init__()\n self.dim = dim\n\n def forward(self, x):\n return x.squeeze(self.dim)\n\n\nclass CustomBert(BertPreTrainedModel):\n def __init__(self, config):\n config.output_hidden_states = True\n super(CustomBert, self).__init__(config)\n self.num_labels = config.num_labels\n self.bert = BertModel(config)\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(p=0.2)\n self.high_dropout = nn.Dropout(p=0.5)\n\n n_weights = config.num_hidden_layers + 1\n weights_init = torch.zeros(n_weights).float()\n weights_init.data[:-1] = -3\n self.layer_weights = torch.nn.Parameter(weights_init)\n\n self.classifier = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, self.config.num_labels)\n\n self.init_weights()\n\n def forward(\n self,\n input_ids=None,\n attention_mask=None,\n token_type_ids=None,\n position_ids=None,\n head_mask=None,\n inputs_embeds=None,\n ):\n\n outputs = self.bert(\n input_ids,\n attention_mask=attention_mask,\n token_type_ids=token_type_ids,\n position_ids=position_ids,\n head_mask=head_mask,\n inputs_embeds=inputs_embeds,\n )\n\n hidden_layers = outputs[2]\n last_hidden = outputs[0]\n\n cls_outputs = torch.stack(\n [self.dropout(layer[:, 0, :]) for layer in hidden_layers], dim=2\n )\n cls_output = (torch.softmax(self.layer_weights, dim=0) * cls_outputs).sum(-1)\n\n # multisample dropout (wut): https://arxiv.org/abs/1905.09788\n logits = torch.mean(\n torch.stack(\n [self.classifier(self.high_dropout(cls_output)) for _ in range(5)],\n dim=0,\n ),\n dim=0,\n )\n\n outputs = logits\n # add hidden states and attention if they are here\n\n return outputs # (loss), logits, (hidden_states), (attentions)\n\n\ndef get_model_optimizer(args):\n model = CustomBert.from_pretrained(args.bert_model, num_labels=args.num_classes)\n model.cuda()\n model = nn.DataParallel(model)\n params = list(model.named_parameters())\n\n def is_backbone(n):\n return \"bert\" in n\n\n optimizer_grouped_parameters = [\n {\"params\": [p for n, p in params if is_backbone(n)], \"lr\": args.lr},\n {\"params\": [p for n, p in params if not is_backbone(n)], \"lr\": args.lr * 500},\n ]\n\n optimizer = torch.optim.AdamW(\n optimizer_grouped_parameters, lr=args.lr, weight_decay=0\n )\n\n return model, optimizer\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/bert-large/run.py", "content": "import warnings, logging\n\nwarnings.filterwarnings(\"ignore\")\n\nimport gc\nimport random\nimport os, multiprocessing, glob\nimport numpy as np\nimport pandas as pd\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\nfrom torch.utils.data import ConcatDataset\n\nfrom transformers import get_linear_schedule_with_warmup\nfrom model import get_model_optimizer\nfrom loops import train_loop, evaluate, infer\nfrom dataset import (\n cross_validation_split,\n get_test_set,\n get_pseudo_set,\n make_collate_fn,\n BucketingSampler,\n)\nfrom args import args\nfrom transformers import BertTokenizer, AlbertTokenizer\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader, Dataset\n\nfrom mag.experiment import Experiment\nimport mag\n\nmag.use_custom_separator(\"-\")\n\nconfig = {\n \"_seed\": args.seed,\n \"_bert_model\": args.bert_model,\n \"batch_accumulation\": args.batch_accumulation,\n \"batch_size\": args.batch_size,\n \"warmup\": args.warmup,\n \"lr\": args.lr,\n \"folds\": args.folds,\n \"max_sequence_length\": args.max_sequence_length,\n \"max_title_length\": args.max_title_length,\n \"max_question_length\": args.max_question_length,\n \"max_answer_length\": args.max_answer_length,\n \"head_tail\": args.head_tail,\n \"label\": args.label,\n \"_pseudo_file\": args.pseudo_file,\n}\nexperiment = Experiment(config, implicit_resuming=args.use_folds is not None)\nexperiment.register_directory(\"checkpoints\")\nexperiment.register_directory(\"predictions\")\n\n\ndef seed_everything(seed: int):\n random.seed(seed)\n os.environ[\"PYTHONHASHSEED\"] = str(seed)\n np.random.seed(seed)\n torch.manual_seed(seed)\n torch.cuda.manual_seed(seed)\n torch.backends.cudnn.deterministic = True\n\n\nlogging.getLogger(\"transformers\").setLevel(logging.ERROR)\nseed_everything(args.seed)\n\n# load the data\ntrain_df = pd.read_csv(\n os.path.join(\n args.data_path, \"train_toy.csv\" if args.toy in [\"True\", \"toy\"] else \"train.csv\"\n )\n)\ntest_df = pd.read_csv(\n os.path.join(\n args.data_path, \"test_toy.csv\" if args.toy in [\"True\", \"toy\"] else \"test.csv\"\n )\n)\nsubmission = pd.read_csv(\n os.path.join(\n args.data_path,\n \"sample_submission_toy.csv\"\n if args.toy in [\"True\", \"toy\"]\n else \"sample_submission.csv\",\n )\n)\n\ntokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained(\n args.bert_model, do_lower_case=(\"uncased\" in args.bert_model)\n)\n\ntest_set = get_test_set(args, test_df, tokenizer)\ntest_loader = DataLoader(\n test_set,\n batch_sampler=BucketingSampler(\n test_set.lengths, batch_size=args.batch_size, maxlen=args.max_sequence_length\n ),\n collate_fn=make_collate_fn(),\n)\n\n\nfor fold, train_set, valid_set, train_fold_df, val_fold_df in cross_validation_split(\n args, train_df, tokenizer\n):\n\n print()\n print(\"Fold:\", fold)\n print()\n\n valid_loader = DataLoader(\n valid_set,\n batch_sampler=BucketingSampler(\n valid_set.lengths,\n batch_size=args.batch_size,\n maxlen=args.max_sequence_length,\n ),\n collate_fn=make_collate_fn(),\n )\n\n fold_checkpoints = os.path.join(experiment.checkpoints, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n fold_predictions = os.path.join(experiment.predictions, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n\n os.makedirs(fold_checkpoints, exist_ok=True)\n os.makedirs(fold_predictions, exist_ok=True)\n\n iteration = 0\n best_score = -1.0\n\n model, optimizer = get_model_optimizer(args)\n criterion = nn.BCEWithLogitsLoss()\n\n for epoch in range(args.epochs):\n\n epoch_train_set = train_set\n\n if args.pseudo_file is not None:\n\n pseudo_df = pd.read_csv(args.pseudo_file.format(fold))\n\n pseudo_set = get_pseudo_set(\n args, pseudo_df.sample(args.n_pseudo), tokenizer\n )\n\n epoch_train_set = ConcatDataset([epoch_train_set, pseudo_set])\n\n train_loader = DataLoader(\n epoch_train_set,\n batch_size=args.batch_size,\n num_workers=args.workers,\n collate_fn=make_collate_fn(),\n drop_last=True,\n shuffle=True,\n )\n\n scheduler = get_linear_schedule_with_warmup(\n optimizer,\n num_warmup_steps=args.warmup,\n num_training_steps=(\n args.epochs * len(train_loader) / args.batch_accumulation\n ),\n )\n\n avg_loss, iteration = train_loop(\n model, train_loader, optimizer, criterion, scheduler, args, iteration,\n )\n\n avg_val_loss, score, val_preds = evaluate(\n args, model, valid_loader, criterion, val_shape=len(valid_set)\n )\n\n print(\n \"Epoch {}/{}: \\t loss={:.4f} \\t val_loss={:.4f} \\t score={:.6f}\".format(\n epoch + 1, args.epochs, avg_loss, avg_val_loss, score\n )\n )\n\n torch.save(\n model.state_dict(),\n os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, \"model_on_epoch_{}.pth\".format(epoch)),\n )\n val_preds_df = val_fold_df.copy()[[\"qa_id\"] + args.target_columns]\n val_preds_df[args.target_columns] = val_preds\n val_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(fold_predictions, \"val_on_epoch_{}.csv\".format(epoch)),\n index=False,\n )\n\n test_preds = infer(args, model, test_loader, test_shape=len(test_set))\n test_preds_df = submission.copy()\n test_preds_df[args.target_columns] = test_preds\n test_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(fold_predictions, \"test_on_epoch_{}.csv\".format(epoch)),\n index=False,\n )\n\n if score > best_score:\n best_score = score\n torch.save(\n model.state_dict(), os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, \"best_model.pth\"),\n )\n val_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(fold_predictions, \"best_val.csv\"), index=False\n )\n test_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(fold_predictions, \"best_test.csv\"), index=False\n )\n del model, optimizer, criterion, scheduler\n del valid_loader, train_loader, valid_set, train_set\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n gc.collect()\n\n print()\n\nbest_val_df_files = [\n os.path.join(experiment.predictions, \"fold{}\".format(fold), \"best_val.csv\")\n for fold in range(args.folds)\n]\n\nif all(os.path.isfile(file) for file in best_val_df_files):\n best_val_dfs = [pd.read_csv(file) for file in best_val_df_files]\n # create oof df only if all folds were used\n oof_df = pd.concat(best_val_dfs).reset_index(drop=True)\n oof_df.to_csv(os.path.join(experiment.predictions, \"oof.csv\"), index=False)\n" }, { "path": "step2_pseudo_labeling/blend_pseudo.py", "content": "import os\nimport sys\nimport numpy as np\nimport pandas as pd\n\nif len(sys.argv) == 1 or sys.argv[1] != \"toy\":\n original_df = pd.read_csv(\"input/sampled_sx_so.csv.gz\")\nelse:\n original_df = pd.read_csv(\"input/qa_stackexchange_cleaned_toy.csv\")\n\nbert_base_dfs = [\n pd.read_csv(\"pseudo-predictions/base/fold-{}.csv\".format(fold)) for fold in range(5)\n]\nbert_large_dfs = [\n pd.read_csv(\"pseudo-predictions/large/fold-{}.csv\".format(fold))\n for fold in range(5)\n]\nbert_base_pretrained_dfs = [\n pd.read_csv(\"pseudo-predictions/base-pretrained/fold-{}.csv\".format(fold))\n for fold in range(5)\n]\n\ntarget_columns = [\n \"question_asker_intent_understanding\",\n \"question_body_critical\",\n \"question_conversational\",\n \"question_expect_short_answer\",\n \"question_fact_seeking\",\n \"question_has_commonly_accepted_answer\",\n \"question_interestingness_others\",\n \"question_interestingness_self\",\n \"question_multi_intent\",\n \"question_not_really_a_question\",\n \"question_opinion_seeking\",\n \"question_type_choice\",\n \"question_type_compare\",\n \"question_type_consequence\",\n \"question_type_definition\",\n \"question_type_entity\",\n \"question_type_instructions\",\n \"question_type_procedure\",\n \"question_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"question_type_spelling\",\n \"question_well_written\",\n \"answer_helpful\",\n \"answer_level_of_information\",\n \"answer_plausible\",\n \"answer_relevance\",\n \"answer_satisfaction\",\n \"answer_type_instructions\",\n \"answer_type_procedure\",\n \"answer_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"answer_well_written\",\n]\n\nos.makedirs(\n os.path.join(\"pseudo-predictions\", \"pseudo-100k-3x-blend-no-leak\"), exist_ok=True\n)\n\nfor fold in range(5):\n\n pseudo_df = bert_base_dfs[0].copy()\n\n for col in target_columns:\n blended = (\n bert_base_dfs[fold][col] * 0.2\n + bert_large_dfs[fold][col] * 0.4\n + bert_base_pretrained_dfs[fold][col] * 0.4\n ).astype(np.float16)\n\n pseudo_df[col] = blended\n\n final_df = pd.concat([original_df, pseudo_df], axis=1)\n\n final_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(\n \"pseudo-predictions\",\n \"pseudo-100k-3x-blend-no-leak\",\n \"fold-{}.csv.gz\".format(fold),\n ),\n index=False,\n )\n" }, { "path": "step3_model1_bert_code/bert.py", "content": "# coding=utf-8\n# Copyright 2018 The Google AI Language Team Authors and The HuggingFace Inc. team.\n# Copyright (c) 2018, NVIDIA CORPORATION. All rights reserved.\n#\n# Licensed under the Apache License, Version 2.0 (the \"License\");\n# you may not use this file except in compliance with the License.\n# You may obtain a copy of the License at\n#\n# http://www.apache.org/licenses/LICENSE-2.0\n#\n# Unless required by applicable law or agreed to in writing, software\n# distributed under the License is distributed on an \"AS IS\" BASIS,\n# WITHOUT WARRANTIES OR CONDITIONS OF ANY KIND, either express or implied.\n# See the License for the specific language governing permissions and\n# limitations under the License.\n\"\"\"PyTorch BERT model. \"\"\"\n\nfrom __future__ import absolute_import, division, print_function, unicode_literals\n\nimport json\nimport logging\nimport math\nimport sys\nfrom io import open\n\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\nfrom torch.nn import CrossEntropyLoss, MSELoss\nfrom transformers import load_tf_weights_in_bert, add_start_docstrings\nfrom transformers.modeling_utils import (\n PretrainedConfig,\n PreTrainedModel,\n prune_linear_layer,\n)\n\nlogger = logging.getLogger(__name__)\n\nBERT_PRETRAINED_MODEL_ARCHIVE_MAP = {\n \"bert-base-uncased\": \"https://s3.amazonaws.com/models.huggingface.co/bert/bert-base-uncased-pytorch_model.bin\",\n \"bert-large-uncased\": \"https://s3.amazonaws.com/models.huggingface.co/bert/bert-large-uncased-pytorch_model.bin\",\n \"bert-base-cased\": \"https://s3.amazonaws.com/models.huggingface.co/bert/bert-base-cased-pytorch_model.bin\",\n \"bert-large-cased\": \"https://s3.amazonaws.com/models.huggingface.co/bert/bert-large-cased-pytorch_model.bin\",\n \"bert-base-multilingual-uncased\": \"https://s3.amazonaws.com/models.huggingface.co/bert/bert-base-multilingual-uncased-pytorch_model.bin\",\n \"bert-base-multilingual-cased\": \"https://s3.amazonaws.com/models.huggingface.co/bert/bert-base-multilingual-cased-pytorch_model.bin\",\n \"bert-base-chinese\": \"https://s3.amazonaws.com/models.huggingface.co/bert/bert-base-chinese-pytorch_model.bin\",\n \"bert-base-german-cased\": \"https://s3.amazonaws.com/models.huggingface.co/bert/bert-base-german-cased-pytorch_model.bin\",\n \"bert-large-uncased-whole-word-masking\": \"https://s3.amazonaws.com/models.huggingface.co/bert/bert-large-uncased-whole-word-masking-pytorch_model.bin\",\n \"bert-large-cased-whole-word-masking\": \"https://s3.amazonaws.com/models.huggingface.co/bert/bert-large-cased-whole-word-masking-pytorch_model.bin\",\n \"bert-large-uncased-whole-word-masking-finetuned-squad\": \"https://s3.amazonaws.com/models.huggingface.co/bert/bert-large-uncased-whole-word-masking-finetuned-squad-pytorch_model.bin\",\n \"bert-large-cased-whole-word-masking-finetuned-squad\": \"https://s3.amazonaws.com/models.huggingface.co/bert/bert-large-cased-whole-word-masking-finetuned-squad-pytorch_model.bin\",\n \"bert-base-cased-finetuned-mrpc\": \"https://s3.amazonaws.com/models.huggingface.co/bert/bert-base-cased-finetuned-mrpc-pytorch_model.bin\",\n}\n\nBERT_PRETRAINED_CONFIG_ARCHIVE_MAP = {\n \"bert-base-uncased\": \"https://s3.amazonaws.com/models.huggingface.co/bert/bert-base-uncased-config.json\",\n \"bert-large-uncased\": \"https://s3.amazonaws.com/models.huggingface.co/bert/bert-large-uncased-config.json\",\n \"bert-base-cased\": \"https://s3.amazonaws.com/models.huggingface.co/bert/bert-base-cased-config.json\",\n \"bert-large-cased\": \"https://s3.amazonaws.com/models.huggingface.co/bert/bert-large-cased-config.json\",\n \"bert-base-multilingual-uncased\": \"https://s3.amazonaws.com/models.huggingface.co/bert/bert-base-multilingual-uncased-config.json\",\n \"bert-base-multilingual-cased\": \"https://s3.amazonaws.com/models.huggingface.co/bert/bert-base-multilingual-cased-config.json\",\n \"bert-base-chinese\": \"https://s3.amazonaws.com/models.huggingface.co/bert/bert-base-chinese-config.json\",\n \"bert-base-german-cased\": \"https://s3.amazonaws.com/models.huggingface.co/bert/bert-base-german-cased-config.json\",\n \"bert-large-uncased-whole-word-masking\": \"https://s3.amazonaws.com/models.huggingface.co/bert/bert-large-uncased-whole-word-masking-config.json\",\n \"bert-large-cased-whole-word-masking\": \"https://s3.amazonaws.com/models.huggingface.co/bert/bert-large-cased-whole-word-masking-config.json\",\n \"bert-large-uncased-whole-word-masking-finetuned-squad\": \"https://s3.amazonaws.com/models.huggingface.co/bert/bert-large-uncased-whole-word-masking-finetuned-squad-config.json\",\n \"bert-large-cased-whole-word-masking-finetuned-squad\": \"https://s3.amazonaws.com/models.huggingface.co/bert/bert-large-cased-whole-word-masking-finetuned-squad-config.json\",\n \"bert-base-cased-finetuned-mrpc\": \"https://s3.amazonaws.com/models.huggingface.co/bert/bert-base-cased-finetuned-mrpc-config.json\",\n}\n\n\ndef gelu(x):\n \"\"\"Implementation of the gelu activation function.\n For information: OpenAI GPT's gelu is slightly different (and gives slightly different results):\n 0.5 * x * (1 + torch.tanh(math.sqrt(2 / math.pi) * (x + 0.044715 * torch.pow(x, 3))))\n Also see https://arxiv.org/abs/1606.08415\n \"\"\"\n return x * 0.5 * (1.0 + torch.erf(x / math.sqrt(2.0)))\n\n\ndef swish(x):\n return x * torch.sigmoid(x)\n\n\nACT2FN = {\"gelu\": gelu, \"relu\": torch.nn.functional.relu, \"swish\": swish}\n\n\nclass BertConfig(PretrainedConfig):\n r\"\"\"\n :class:`~pytorch_transformers.BertConfig` is the configuration class to store the configuration of a\n `BertModel`.\n\n\n Arguments:\n vocab_size_or_config_json_file: Vocabulary size of `inputs_ids` in `BertModel`.\n hidden_size: Size of the encoder layers and the pooler layer.\n num_hidden_layers: Number of hidden layers in the Transformer encoder.\n num_attention_heads: Number of attention heads for each attention layer in\n the Transformer encoder.\n intermediate_size: The size of the \"intermediate\" (i.e., feed-forward)\n layer in the Transformer encoder.\n hidden_act: The non-linear activation function (function or string) in the\n encoder and pooler. If string, \"gelu\", \"relu\" and \"swish\" are supported.\n hidden_dropout_prob: The dropout probabilitiy for all fully connected\n layers in the embeddings, encoder, and pooler.\n attention_probs_dropout_prob: The dropout ratio for the attention\n probabilities.\n max_position_embeddings: The maximum sequence length that this model might\n ever be used with. Typically set this to something large just in case\n (e.g., 512 or 1024 or 2048).\n type_vocab_size: The vocabulary size of the `token_type_ids` passed into\n `BertModel`.\n initializer_range: The sttdev of the truncated_normal_initializer for\n initializing all weight matrices.\n layer_norm_eps: The epsilon used by LayerNorm.\n \"\"\"\n pretrained_config_archive_map = BERT_PRETRAINED_CONFIG_ARCHIVE_MAP\n\n def __init__(\n self,\n vocab_size_or_config_json_file=30522,\n hidden_size=768,\n num_hidden_layers=12,\n num_attention_heads=12,\n intermediate_size=3072,\n hidden_act=\"gelu\",\n hidden_dropout_prob=0.1,\n attention_probs_dropout_prob=0.1,\n max_position_embeddings=512,\n type_vocab_size=2,\n initializer_range=0.02,\n layer_norm_eps=1e-12,\n **kwargs\n ):\n super(BertConfig, self).__init__(**kwargs)\n if isinstance(vocab_size_or_config_json_file, str) or (\n sys.version_info[0] == 2\n and isinstance(vocab_size_or_config_json_file, unicode)\n ):\n with open(vocab_size_or_config_json_file, \"r\", encoding=\"utf-8\") as reader:\n json_config = json.loads(reader.read())\n for key, value in json_config.items():\n self.__dict__[key] = value\n elif isinstance(vocab_size_or_config_json_file, int):\n self.vocab_size = vocab_size_or_config_json_file\n self.hidden_size = hidden_size\n self.num_hidden_layers = num_hidden_layers\n self.num_attention_heads = num_attention_heads\n self.hidden_act = hidden_act\n self.intermediate_size = intermediate_size\n self.hidden_dropout_prob = hidden_dropout_prob\n self.attention_probs_dropout_prob = attention_probs_dropout_prob\n self.max_position_embeddings = max_position_embeddings\n self.type_vocab_size = type_vocab_size\n self.initializer_range = initializer_range\n self.layer_norm_eps = layer_norm_eps\n else:\n raise ValueError(\n \"First argument must be either a vocabulary size (int)\"\n \" or the path to a pretrained model config file (str)\"\n )\n\n\ntry:\n from apex.normalization.fused_layer_norm import FusedLayerNorm as BertLayerNorm\nexcept (ImportError, AttributeError) as e:\n logger.info(\n \"Better speed can be achieved with apex installed from https://www.github.com/nvidia/apex .\"\n )\n BertLayerNorm = torch.nn.LayerNorm\n\n\nclass BertEmbeddings(nn.Module):\n \"\"\"Construct the embeddings from word, position and token_type embeddings.\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, config):\n super(BertEmbeddings, self).__init__()\n self.word_embeddings = nn.Embedding(\n config.vocab_size, config.hidden_size, padding_idx=0\n )\n self.position_embeddings = nn.Embedding(\n config.max_position_embeddings, config.hidden_size\n )\n self.token_type_embeddings = nn.Embedding(\n config.type_vocab_size, config.hidden_size\n )\n\n # self.LayerNorm is not snake-cased to stick with TensorFlow model variable name and be able to load\n # any TensorFlow checkpoint file\n self.LayerNorm = BertLayerNorm(config.hidden_size, eps=config.layer_norm_eps)\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(config.hidden_dropout_prob)\n\n def forward(self, input_ids, token_type_ids=None, position_ids=None):\n seq_length = input_ids.size(1)\n if position_ids is None:\n position_ids = torch.arange(\n seq_length, dtype=torch.long, device=input_ids.device\n )\n position_ids = position_ids.unsqueeze(0).expand_as(input_ids)\n if token_type_ids is None:\n token_type_ids = torch.zeros_like(input_ids)\n\n words_embeddings = self.word_embeddings(input_ids)\n position_embeddings = self.position_embeddings(position_ids)\n token_type_embeddings = self.token_type_embeddings(token_type_ids)\n\n embeddings = words_embeddings + position_embeddings + token_type_embeddings\n embeddings = self.LayerNorm(embeddings)\n embeddings = self.dropout(embeddings)\n return embeddings\n\n\nclass BertSelfAttention(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, config):\n super(BertSelfAttention, self).__init__()\n if config.hidden_size % config.num_attention_heads != 0:\n raise ValueError(\n \"The hidden size (%d) is not a multiple of the number of attention \"\n \"heads (%d)\" % (config.hidden_size, config.num_attention_heads)\n )\n self.output_attentions = config.output_attentions\n\n self.num_attention_heads = config.num_attention_heads\n self.attention_head_size = int(config.hidden_size / config.num_attention_heads)\n self.all_head_size = self.num_attention_heads * self.attention_head_size\n\n self.query = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, self.all_head_size)\n self.key = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, self.all_head_size)\n self.value = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, self.all_head_size)\n\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(config.attention_probs_dropout_prob)\n\n def transpose_for_scores(self, x):\n new_x_shape = x.size()[:-1] + (\n self.num_attention_heads,\n self.attention_head_size,\n )\n x = x.view(*new_x_shape)\n return x.permute(0, 2, 1, 3)\n\n def forward(self, hidden_states, attention_mask, head_mask=None):\n mixed_query_layer = self.query(hidden_states)\n mixed_key_layer = self.key(hidden_states)\n mixed_value_layer = self.value(hidden_states)\n\n query_layer = self.transpose_for_scores(mixed_query_layer)\n key_layer = self.transpose_for_scores(mixed_key_layer)\n value_layer = self.transpose_for_scores(mixed_value_layer)\n\n # Take the dot product between \"query\" and \"key\" to get the raw attention scores.\n attention_scores = torch.matmul(query_layer, key_layer.transpose(-1, -2))\n attention_scores = attention_scores / math.sqrt(self.attention_head_size)\n # Apply the attention mask is (precomputed for all layers in BertModel forward() function)\n attention_scores = attention_scores + attention_mask\n\n # Normalize the attention scores to probabilities.\n attention_probs = nn.Softmax(dim=-1)(attention_scores)\n\n # This is actually dropping out entire tokens to attend to, which might\n # seem a bit unusual, but is taken from the original Transformer paper.\n attention_probs = self.dropout(attention_probs)\n\n # Mask heads if we want to\n if head_mask is not None:\n attention_probs = attention_probs * head_mask\n\n context_layer = torch.matmul(attention_probs, value_layer)\n\n context_layer = context_layer.permute(0, 2, 1, 3).contiguous()\n new_context_layer_shape = context_layer.size()[:-2] + (self.all_head_size,)\n context_layer = context_layer.view(*new_context_layer_shape)\n\n outputs = (\n (context_layer, attention_probs)\n if self.output_attentions\n else (context_layer,)\n )\n return outputs\n\n\nclass BertSelfOutput(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, config):\n super(BertSelfOutput, self).__init__()\n self.dense = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, config.hidden_size)\n self.LayerNorm = BertLayerNorm(config.hidden_size, eps=config.layer_norm_eps)\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(config.hidden_dropout_prob)\n\n def forward(self, hidden_states, input_tensor):\n hidden_states = self.dense(hidden_states)\n hidden_states = self.dropout(hidden_states)\n hidden_states = self.LayerNorm(hidden_states + input_tensor)\n return hidden_states\n\n\nclass BertAttention(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, config):\n super(BertAttention, self).__init__()\n self.self = BertSelfAttention(config)\n self.output = BertSelfOutput(config)\n self.pruned_heads = set()\n\n def prune_heads(self, heads):\n if len(heads) == 0:\n return\n mask = torch.ones(self.self.num_attention_heads, self.self.attention_head_size)\n heads = (\n set(heads) - self.pruned_heads\n ) # Convert to set and emove already pruned heads\n for head in heads:\n # Compute how many pruned heads are before the head and move the index accordingly\n head = head - sum(1 if h < head else 0 for h in self.pruned_heads)\n mask[head] = 0\n mask = mask.view(-1).contiguous().eq(1)\n index = torch.arange(len(mask))[mask].long()\n\n # Prune linear layers\n self.self.query = prune_linear_layer(self.self.query, index)\n self.self.key = prune_linear_layer(self.self.key, index)\n self.self.value = prune_linear_layer(self.self.value, index)\n self.output.dense = prune_linear_layer(self.output.dense, index, dim=1)\n\n # Update hyper params and store pruned heads\n self.self.num_attention_heads = self.self.num_attention_heads - len(heads)\n self.self.all_head_size = (\n self.self.attention_head_size * self.self.num_attention_heads\n )\n self.pruned_heads = self.pruned_heads.union(heads)\n\n def forward(self, input_tensor, attention_mask, head_mask=None):\n self_outputs = self.self(input_tensor, attention_mask, head_mask)\n attention_output = self.output(self_outputs[0], input_tensor)\n outputs = (attention_output,) + self_outputs[\n 1:\n ] # add attentions if we output them\n return outputs\n\n\nclass BertIntermediate(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, config):\n super(BertIntermediate, self).__init__()\n self.dense = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, config.intermediate_size)\n if isinstance(config.hidden_act, str) or (\n sys.version_info[0] == 2 and isinstance(config.hidden_act, unicode)\n ):\n self.intermediate_act_fn = ACT2FN[config.hidden_act]\n else:\n self.intermediate_act_fn = config.hidden_act\n\n def forward(self, hidden_states):\n hidden_states = self.dense(hidden_states)\n hidden_states = self.intermediate_act_fn(hidden_states)\n return hidden_states\n\n\nclass BertOutput(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, config):\n super(BertOutput, self).__init__()\n self.dense = nn.Linear(config.intermediate_size, config.hidden_size)\n self.LayerNorm = BertLayerNorm(config.hidden_size, eps=config.layer_norm_eps)\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(config.hidden_dropout_prob)\n\n def forward(self, hidden_states, input_tensor):\n hidden_states = self.dense(hidden_states)\n hidden_states = self.dropout(hidden_states)\n hidden_states = self.LayerNorm(hidden_states + input_tensor)\n return hidden_states\n\n\nclass BertLayer(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, config):\n super(BertLayer, self).__init__()\n self.attention = BertAttention(config)\n self.intermediate = BertIntermediate(config)\n self.output = BertOutput(config)\n\n def forward(self, hidden_states, attention_mask, head_mask=None):\n attention_outputs = self.attention(hidden_states, attention_mask, head_mask)\n attention_output = attention_outputs[0]\n intermediate_output = self.intermediate(attention_output)\n layer_output = self.output(intermediate_output, attention_output)\n outputs = (layer_output,) + attention_outputs[\n 1:\n ] # add attentions if we output them\n return outputs\n\n\nclass BertEncoder(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, config):\n super(BertEncoder, self).__init__()\n self.output_attentions = config.output_attentions\n self.output_hidden_states = config.output_hidden_states\n self.layer = nn.ModuleList(\n [BertLayer(config) for _ in range(config.num_hidden_layers)]\n )\n\n def forward(self, hidden_states, attention_mask, head_mask=None):\n all_hidden_states = ()\n all_attentions = ()\n for i, layer_module in enumerate(self.layer):\n if self.output_hidden_states:\n all_hidden_states = all_hidden_states + (hidden_states,)\n\n layer_outputs = layer_module(hidden_states, attention_mask, head_mask[i])\n hidden_states = layer_outputs[0]\n\n if self.output_attentions:\n all_attentions = all_attentions + (layer_outputs[1],)\n\n # Add last layer\n if self.output_hidden_states:\n all_hidden_states = all_hidden_states + (hidden_states,)\n\n outputs = (hidden_states,)\n if self.output_hidden_states:\n outputs = outputs + (all_hidden_states,)\n if self.output_attentions:\n outputs = outputs + (all_attentions,)\n return outputs # last-layer hidden state, (all hidden states), (all attentions)\n\n\nclass BertPooler(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, config):\n super(BertPooler, self).__init__()\n self.dense = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, config.hidden_size)\n self.activation = nn.Tanh()\n\n def forward(self, hidden_states):\n # We \"pool\" the model by simply taking the hidden state corresponding\n # to the first token.\n first_token_tensor = hidden_states[:, 0]\n pooled_output = self.dense(first_token_tensor)\n pooled_output = self.activation(pooled_output)\n return pooled_output\n\n\nclass BertPredictionHeadTransform(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, config):\n super(BertPredictionHeadTransform, self).__init__()\n self.dense = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, config.hidden_size)\n if isinstance(config.hidden_act, str) or (\n sys.version_info[0] == 2 and isinstance(config.hidden_act, unicode)\n ):\n self.transform_act_fn = ACT2FN[config.hidden_act]\n else:\n self.transform_act_fn = config.hidden_act\n self.LayerNorm = BertLayerNorm(config.hidden_size, eps=config.layer_norm_eps)\n\n def forward(self, hidden_states):\n hidden_states = self.dense(hidden_states)\n hidden_states = self.transform_act_fn(hidden_states)\n hidden_states = self.LayerNorm(hidden_states)\n return hidden_states\n\n\nclass BertLMPredictionHead(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, config):\n super(BertLMPredictionHead, self).__init__()\n self.transform = BertPredictionHeadTransform(config)\n\n # The output weights are the same as the input embeddings, but there is\n # an output-only bias for each token.\n self.decoder = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, config.vocab_size, bias=False)\n\n self.bias = nn.Parameter(torch.zeros(config.vocab_size))\n\n def forward(self, hidden_states):\n hidden_states = self.transform(hidden_states)\n hidden_states = self.decoder(hidden_states) + self.bias\n return hidden_states\n\n\nclass BertOnlyMLMHead(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, config):\n super(BertOnlyMLMHead, self).__init__()\n self.predictions = BertLMPredictionHead(config)\n\n def forward(self, sequence_output):\n prediction_scores = self.predictions(sequence_output)\n return prediction_scores\n\n\nclass BertOnlyNSPHead(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, config):\n super(BertOnlyNSPHead, self).__init__()\n self.seq_relationship = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, 2)\n\n def forward(self, pooled_output):\n seq_relationship_score = self.seq_relationship(pooled_output)\n return seq_relationship_score\n\n\nclass BertPreTrainingHeads(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, config):\n super(BertPreTrainingHeads, self).__init__()\n self.predictions = BertLMPredictionHead(config)\n self.seq_relationship = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, 2)\n\n def forward(self, sequence_output, pooled_output):\n prediction_scores = self.predictions(sequence_output)\n seq_relationship_score = self.seq_relationship(pooled_output)\n return prediction_scores, seq_relationship_score\n\n\nclass BertPreTrainedModel(PreTrainedModel):\n \"\"\" An abstract class to handle weights initialization and\n a simple interface for dowloading and loading pretrained models.\n \"\"\"\n\n config_class = BertConfig\n pretrained_model_archive_map = BERT_PRETRAINED_MODEL_ARCHIVE_MAP\n load_tf_weights = load_tf_weights_in_bert\n base_model_prefix = \"bert\"\n\n def _init_weights(self, module):\n \"\"\" Initialize the weights \"\"\"\n if isinstance(module, (nn.Linear, nn.Embedding)):\n # Slightly different from the TF version which uses truncated_normal for initialization\n # cf https://github.com/pytorch/pytorch/pull/5617\n module.weight.data.normal_(mean=0.0, std=self.config.initializer_range)\n elif isinstance(module, BertLayerNorm):\n module.bias.data.zero_()\n module.weight.data.fill_(1.0)\n if isinstance(module, nn.Linear) and module.bias is not None:\n module.bias.data.zero_()\n\n\nBERT_START_DOCSTRING = r\"\"\" The BERT model was proposed in\n `BERT: Pre-training of Deep Bidirectional Transformers for Language Understanding`_\n by Jacob Devlin, Ming-Wei Chang, Kenton Lee and Kristina Toutanova. It's a bidirectional transformer\n pre-trained using a combination of masked language modeling objective and next sentence prediction\n on a large corpus comprising the Toronto Book Corpus and Wikipedia.\n\n This model is a PyTorch `torch.nn.Module`_ sub-class. Use it as a regular PyTorch Module and\n refer to the PyTorch documentation for all matter related to general usage and behavior.\n\n .. _`BERT: Pre-training of Deep Bidirectional Transformers for Language Understanding`:\n https://arxiv.org/abs/1810.04805\n\n .. _`torch.nn.Module`:\n https://pytorch.org/docs/stable/nn.html#module\n\n Parameters:\n config (:class:`~pytorch_transformers.BertConfig`): Model configuration class with all the parameters of the model. \n Initializing with a config file does not load the weights associated with the model, only the configuration.\n Check out the :meth:`~pytorch_transformers.PreTrainedModel.from_pretrained` method to load the model weights.\n\"\"\"\n\nBERT_INPUTS_DOCSTRING = r\"\"\"\n Inputs:\n **input_ids**: ``torch.LongTensor`` of shape ``(batch_size, sequence_length)``:\n Indices of input sequence tokens in the vocabulary.\n To match pre-training, BERT input sequence should be formatted with [CLS] and [SEP] tokens as follows:\n\n (a) For sequence pairs:\n\n ``tokens: [CLS] is this jack ##son ##ville ? [SEP] no it is not . [SEP]``\n\n ``token_type_ids: 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 1 1 1``\n\n (b) For single sequences:\n\n ``tokens: [CLS] the dog is hairy . [SEP]``\n\n ``token_type_ids: 0 0 0 0 0 0 0``\n\n Bert is a model with absolute position embeddings so it's usually advised to pad the inputs on\n the right rather than the left.\n\n Indices can be obtained using :class:`pytorch_transformers.BertTokenizer`.\n See :func:`pytorch_transformers.PreTrainedTokenizer.encode` and\n :func:`pytorch_transformers.PreTrainedTokenizer.convert_tokens_to_ids` for details.\n **position_ids**: (`optional`) ``torch.LongTensor`` of shape ``(batch_size, sequence_length)``:\n Indices of positions of each input sequence tokens in the position embeddings.\n Selected in the range ``[0, config.max_position_embeddings - 1]``.\n **token_type_ids**: (`optional`) ``torch.LongTensor`` of shape ``(batch_size, sequence_length)``:\n Segment token indices to indicate first and second portions of the inputs.\n Indices are selected in ``[0, 1]``: ``0`` corresponds to a `sentence A` token, ``1``\n corresponds to a `sentence B` token\n (see `BERT: Pre-training of Deep Bidirectional Transformers for Language Understanding`_ for more details).\n **attention_mask**: (`optional`) ``torch.FloatTensor`` of shape ``(batch_size, sequence_length)``:\n Mask to avoid performing attention on padding token indices.\n Mask values selected in ``[0, 1]``:\n ``1`` for tokens that are NOT MASKED, ``0`` for MASKED tokens.\n **head_mask**: (`optional`) ``torch.FloatTensor`` of shape ``(num_heads,)`` or ``(num_layers, num_heads)``:\n Mask to nullify selected heads of the self-attention modules.\n Mask values selected in ``[0, 1]``:\n ``1`` indicates the head is **not masked**, ``0`` indicates the head is **masked**.\n\"\"\"\n\n\n@add_start_docstrings(\n \"The bare Bert Model transformer outputing raw hidden-states without any specific head on top.\",\n BERT_START_DOCSTRING,\n BERT_INPUTS_DOCSTRING,\n)\nclass BertModel(BertPreTrainedModel):\n r\"\"\"\n Outputs: `Tuple` comprising various elements depending on the configuration (config) and inputs:\n **last_hidden_state**: ``torch.FloatTensor`` of shape ``(batch_size, sequence_length, hidden_size)``\n Sequence of hidden-states at the output of the last layer of the model.\n **pooler_output**: ``torch.FloatTensor`` of shape ``(batch_size, hidden_size)``\n Last layer hidden-state of the first token of the sequence (classification token)\n further processed by a Linear layer and a Tanh activation function. The Linear\n layer weights are trained from the next sentence prediction (classification)\n objective during Bert pretraining. This output is usually *not* a good summary\n of the semantic content of the input, you're often better with averaging or pooling\n the sequence of hidden-states for the whole input sequence.\n **hidden_states**: (`optional`, returned when ``config.output_hidden_states=True``)\n list of ``torch.FloatTensor`` (one for the output of each layer + the output of the embeddings)\n of shape ``(batch_size, sequence_length, hidden_size)``:\n Hidden-states of the model at the output of each layer plus the initial embedding outputs.\n **attentions**: (`optional`, returned when ``config.output_attentions=True``)\n list of ``torch.FloatTensor`` (one for each layer) of shape ``(batch_size, num_heads, sequence_length, sequence_length)``:\n Attentions weights after the attention softmax, used to compute the weighted average in the self-attention heads.\n\n Examples::\n\n tokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained('bert-base-uncased')\n model = BertModel.from_pretrained('bert-base-uncased')\n input_ids = torch.tensor(tokenizer.encode(\"Hello, my dog is cute\")).unsqueeze(0) # Batch size 1\n outputs = model(input_ids)\n last_hidden_states = outputs[0] # The last hidden-state is the first element of the output tuple\n\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, config):\n super(BertModel, self).__init__(config)\n\n self.embeddings = BertEmbeddings(config)\n self.encoder = BertEncoder(config)\n self.pooler = BertPooler(config)\n\n self.init_weights()\n\n def _resize_token_embeddings(self, new_num_tokens):\n old_embeddings = self.embeddings.word_embeddings\n new_embeddings = self._get_resized_embeddings(old_embeddings, new_num_tokens)\n self.embeddings.word_embeddings = new_embeddings\n return self.embeddings.word_embeddings\n\n def _prune_heads(self, heads_to_prune):\n \"\"\" Prunes heads of the model.\n heads_to_prune: dict of {layer_num: list of heads to prune in this layer}\n See base class PreTrainedModel\n \"\"\"\n for layer, heads in heads_to_prune.items():\n self.encoder.layer[layer].attention.prune_heads(heads)\n\n def forward(\n self,\n input_ids,\n token_type_ids=None,\n attention_mask=None,\n position_ids=None,\n head_mask=None,\n ):\n if attention_mask is None:\n attention_mask = torch.ones_like(input_ids)\n if token_type_ids is None:\n token_type_ids = torch.zeros_like(input_ids)\n\n # We create a 3D attention mask from a 2D tensor mask.\n # Sizes are [batch_size, 1, 1, to_seq_length]\n # So we can broadcast to [batch_size, num_heads, from_seq_length, to_seq_length]\n # this attention mask is more simple than the triangular masking of causal attention\n # used in OpenAI GPT, we just need to prepare the broadcast dimension here.\n extended_attention_mask = attention_mask.unsqueeze(1).unsqueeze(2)\n\n # Since attention_mask is 1.0 for positions we want to attend and 0.0 for\n # masked positions, this operation will create a tensor which is 0.0 for\n # positions we want to attend and -10000.0 for masked positions.\n # Since we are adding it to the raw scores before the softmax, this is\n # effectively the same as removing these entirely.\n extended_attention_mask = extended_attention_mask.to(\n dtype=next(self.parameters()).dtype\n ) # fp16 compatibility\n extended_attention_mask = (1.0 - extended_attention_mask) * -10000.0\n\n # Prepare head mask if needed\n # 1.0 in head_mask indicate we keep the head\n # attention_probs has shape bsz x n_heads x N x N\n # input head_mask has shape [num_heads] or [num_hidden_layers x num_heads]\n # and head_mask is converted to shape [num_hidden_layers x batch x num_heads x seq_length x seq_length]\n if head_mask is not None:\n if head_mask.dim() == 1:\n head_mask = (\n head_mask.unsqueeze(0).unsqueeze(0).unsqueeze(-1).unsqueeze(-1)\n )\n head_mask = head_mask.expand(\n self.config.num_hidden_layers, -1, -1, -1, -1\n )\n elif head_mask.dim() == 2:\n head_mask = (\n head_mask.unsqueeze(1).unsqueeze(-1).unsqueeze(-1)\n ) # We can specify head_mask for each layer\n head_mask = head_mask.to(\n dtype=next(self.parameters()).dtype\n ) # switch to fload if need + fp16 compatibility\n else:\n head_mask = [None] * self.config.num_hidden_layers\n\n embedding_output = self.embeddings(\n input_ids, position_ids=position_ids, token_type_ids=token_type_ids\n )\n encoder_outputs = self.encoder(\n embedding_output, extended_attention_mask, head_mask=head_mask\n )\n sequence_output = encoder_outputs[0]\n pooled_output = self.pooler(sequence_output)\n\n outputs = (sequence_output, pooled_output,) + encoder_outputs[\n 1:\n ] # add hidden_states and attentions if they are here\n return outputs # sequence_output, pooled_output, (hidden_states), (attentions)\n\n\n@add_start_docstrings(\n \"\"\"Bert Model with two heads on top as done during the pre-training:\n a `masked language modeling` head and a `next sentence prediction (classification)` head. \"\"\",\n BERT_START_DOCSTRING,\n BERT_INPUTS_DOCSTRING,\n)\nclass BertForPreTraining(BertPreTrainedModel):\n r\"\"\"\n **masked_lm_labels**: (`optional`) ``torch.LongTensor`` of shape ``(batch_size, sequence_length)``:\n Labels for computing the masked language modeling loss.\n Indices should be in ``[-1, 0, ..., config.vocab_size]`` (see ``input_ids`` docstring)\n Tokens with indices set to ``-1`` are ignored (masked), the loss is only computed for the tokens with labels\n in ``[0, ..., config.vocab_size]``\n **next_sentence_label**: (`optional`) ``torch.LongTensor`` of shape ``(batch_size,)``:\n Labels for computing the next sequence prediction (classification) loss. Input should be a sequence pair (see ``input_ids`` docstring)\n Indices should be in ``[0, 1]``.\n ``0`` indicates sequence B is a continuation of sequence A,\n ``1`` indicates sequence B is a random sequence.\n\n Outputs: `Tuple` comprising various elements depending on the configuration (config) and inputs:\n **loss**: (`optional`, returned when both ``masked_lm_labels`` and ``next_sentence_label`` are provided) ``torch.FloatTensor`` of shape ``(1,)``:\n Total loss as the sum of the masked language modeling loss and the next sequence prediction (classification) loss.\n **prediction_scores**: ``torch.FloatTensor`` of shape ``(batch_size, sequence_length, config.vocab_size)``\n Prediction scores of the language modeling head (scores for each vocabulary token before SoftMax).\n **seq_relationship_scores**: ``torch.FloatTensor`` of shape ``(batch_size, sequence_length, 2)``\n Prediction scores of the next sequence prediction (classification) head (scores of True/False continuation before SoftMax).\n **hidden_states**: (`optional`, returned when ``config.output_hidden_states=True``)\n list of ``torch.FloatTensor`` (one for the output of each layer + the output of the embeddings)\n of shape ``(batch_size, sequence_length, hidden_size)``:\n Hidden-states of the model at the output of each layer plus the initial embedding outputs.\n **attentions**: (`optional`, returned when ``config.output_attentions=True``)\n list of ``torch.FloatTensor`` (one for each layer) of shape ``(batch_size, num_heads, sequence_length, sequence_length)``:\n Attentions weights after the attention softmax, used to compute the weighted average in the self-attention heads.\n\n Examples::\n\n tokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained('bert-base-uncased')\n model = BertForPreTraining.from_pretrained('bert-base-uncased')\n input_ids = torch.tensor(tokenizer.encode(\"Hello, my dog is cute\")).unsqueeze(0) # Batch size 1\n outputs = model(input_ids)\n prediction_scores, seq_relationship_scores = outputs[:2]\n\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, config):\n super(BertForPreTraining, self).__init__(config)\n\n self.bert = BertModel(config)\n self.cls = BertPreTrainingHeads(config)\n\n self.init_weights()\n self.tie_weights()\n\n def tie_weights(self):\n \"\"\" Make sure we are sharing the input and output embeddings.\n Export to TorchScript can't handle parameter sharing so we are cloning them instead.\n \"\"\"\n self._tie_or_clone_weights(\n self.cls.predictions.decoder, self.bert.embeddings.word_embeddings\n )\n\n def forward(\n self,\n input_ids,\n token_type_ids=None,\n attention_mask=None,\n masked_lm_labels=None,\n next_sentence_label=None,\n position_ids=None,\n head_mask=None,\n ):\n outputs = self.bert(\n input_ids,\n position_ids=position_ids,\n token_type_ids=token_type_ids,\n attention_mask=attention_mask,\n head_mask=head_mask,\n )\n\n sequence_output, pooled_output = outputs[:2]\n prediction_scores, seq_relationship_score = self.cls(\n sequence_output, pooled_output\n )\n\n outputs = (prediction_scores, seq_relationship_score,) + outputs[\n 2:\n ] # add hidden states and attention if they are here\n\n if masked_lm_labels is not None and next_sentence_label is not None:\n loss_fct = CrossEntropyLoss(ignore_index=-1)\n masked_lm_loss = loss_fct(\n prediction_scores.view(-1, self.config.vocab_size),\n masked_lm_labels.view(-1),\n )\n next_sentence_loss = loss_fct(\n seq_relationship_score.view(-1, 2), next_sentence_label.view(-1)\n )\n total_loss = masked_lm_loss + next_sentence_loss\n outputs = (total_loss,) + outputs\n\n return outputs # (loss), prediction_scores, seq_relationship_score, (hidden_states), (attentions)\n\n\n@add_start_docstrings(\n \"\"\"Bert Model with a `language modeling` head on top. \"\"\",\n BERT_START_DOCSTRING,\n BERT_INPUTS_DOCSTRING,\n)\nclass BertForMaskedLM(BertPreTrainedModel):\n r\"\"\"\n **masked_lm_labels**: (`optional`) ``torch.LongTensor`` of shape ``(batch_size, sequence_length)``:\n Labels for computing the masked language modeling loss.\n Indices should be in ``[-1, 0, ..., config.vocab_size]`` (see ``input_ids`` docstring)\n Tokens with indices set to ``-1`` are ignored (masked), the loss is only computed for the tokens with labels\n in ``[0, ..., config.vocab_size]``\n\n Outputs: `Tuple` comprising various elements depending on the configuration (config) and inputs:\n **loss**: (`optional`, returned when ``masked_lm_labels`` is provided) ``torch.FloatTensor`` of shape ``(1,)``:\n Masked language modeling loss.\n **prediction_scores**: ``torch.FloatTensor`` of shape ``(batch_size, sequence_length, config.vocab_size)``\n Prediction scores of the language modeling head (scores for each vocabulary token before SoftMax).\n **hidden_states**: (`optional`, returned when ``config.output_hidden_states=True``)\n list of ``torch.FloatTensor`` (one for the output of each layer + the output of the embeddings)\n of shape ``(batch_size, sequence_length, hidden_size)``:\n Hidden-states of the model at the output of each layer plus the initial embedding outputs.\n **attentions**: (`optional`, returned when ``config.output_attentions=True``)\n list of ``torch.FloatTensor`` (one for each layer) of shape ``(batch_size, num_heads, sequence_length, sequence_length)``:\n Attentions weights after the attention softmax, used to compute the weighted average in the self-attention heads.\n\n Examples::\n\n tokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained('bert-base-uncased')\n model = BertForMaskedLM.from_pretrained('bert-base-uncased')\n input_ids = torch.tensor(tokenizer.encode(\"Hello, my dog is cute\")).unsqueeze(0) # Batch size 1\n outputs = model(input_ids, masked_lm_labels=input_ids)\n loss, prediction_scores = outputs[:2]\n\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, config):\n super(BertForMaskedLM, self).__init__(config)\n\n self.bert = BertModel(config)\n self.cls = BertOnlyMLMHead(config)\n\n self.init_weights()\n self.tie_weights()\n\n def tie_weights(self):\n \"\"\" Make sure we are sharing the input and output embeddings.\n Export to TorchScript can't handle parameter sharing so we are cloning them instead.\n \"\"\"\n self._tie_or_clone_weights(\n self.cls.predictions.decoder, self.bert.embeddings.word_embeddings\n )\n\n def forward(\n self,\n input_ids,\n token_type_ids=None,\n attention_mask=None,\n masked_lm_labels=None,\n position_ids=None,\n head_mask=None,\n ):\n outputs = self.bert(\n input_ids,\n position_ids=position_ids,\n token_type_ids=token_type_ids,\n attention_mask=attention_mask,\n head_mask=head_mask,\n )\n\n sequence_output = outputs[0]\n prediction_scores = self.cls(sequence_output)\n\n outputs = (prediction_scores,) + outputs[\n 2:\n ] # Add hidden states and attention if they are here\n if masked_lm_labels is not None:\n loss_fct = CrossEntropyLoss(ignore_index=-1)\n masked_lm_loss = loss_fct(\n prediction_scores.view(-1, self.config.vocab_size),\n masked_lm_labels.view(-1),\n )\n outputs = (masked_lm_loss,) + outputs\n\n return outputs # (masked_lm_loss), prediction_scores, (hidden_states), (attentions)\n\n\n@add_start_docstrings(\n \"\"\"Bert Model with a `next sentence prediction (classification)` head on top. \"\"\",\n BERT_START_DOCSTRING,\n BERT_INPUTS_DOCSTRING,\n)\nclass BertForNextSentencePrediction(BertPreTrainedModel):\n r\"\"\"\n **next_sentence_label**: (`optional`) ``torch.LongTensor`` of shape ``(batch_size,)``:\n Labels for computing the next sequence prediction (classification) loss. Input should be a sequence pair (see ``input_ids`` docstring)\n Indices should be in ``[0, 1]``.\n ``0`` indicates sequence B is a continuation of sequence A,\n ``1`` indicates sequence B is a random sequence.\n\n Outputs: `Tuple` comprising various elements depending on the configuration (config) and inputs:\n **loss**: (`optional`, returned when ``next_sentence_label`` is provided) ``torch.FloatTensor`` of shape ``(1,)``:\n Next sequence prediction (classification) loss.\n **seq_relationship_scores**: ``torch.FloatTensor`` of shape ``(batch_size, sequence_length, 2)``\n Prediction scores of the next sequence prediction (classification) head (scores of True/False continuation before SoftMax).\n **hidden_states**: (`optional`, returned when ``config.output_hidden_states=True``)\n list of ``torch.FloatTensor`` (one for the output of each layer + the output of the embeddings)\n of shape ``(batch_size, sequence_length, hidden_size)``:\n Hidden-states of the model at the output of each layer plus the initial embedding outputs.\n **attentions**: (`optional`, returned when ``config.output_attentions=True``)\n list of ``torch.FloatTensor`` (one for each layer) of shape ``(batch_size, num_heads, sequence_length, sequence_length)``:\n Attentions weights after the attention softmax, used to compute the weighted average in the self-attention heads.\n\n Examples::\n\n tokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained('bert-base-uncased')\n model = BertForNextSentencePrediction.from_pretrained('bert-base-uncased')\n input_ids = torch.tensor(tokenizer.encode(\"Hello, my dog is cute\")).unsqueeze(0) # Batch size 1\n outputs = model(input_ids)\n seq_relationship_scores = outputs[0]\n\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, config):\n super(BertForNextSentencePrediction, self).__init__(config)\n\n self.bert = BertModel(config)\n self.cls = BertOnlyNSPHead(config)\n\n self.init_weights()\n\n def forward(\n self,\n input_ids,\n token_type_ids=None,\n attention_mask=None,\n next_sentence_label=None,\n position_ids=None,\n head_mask=None,\n ):\n outputs = self.bert(\n input_ids,\n position_ids=position_ids,\n token_type_ids=token_type_ids,\n attention_mask=attention_mask,\n head_mask=head_mask,\n )\n pooled_output = outputs[1]\n\n seq_relationship_score = self.cls(pooled_output)\n\n outputs = (seq_relationship_score,) + outputs[\n 2:\n ] # add hidden states and attention if they are here\n if next_sentence_label is not None:\n loss_fct = CrossEntropyLoss(ignore_index=-1)\n next_sentence_loss = loss_fct(\n seq_relationship_score.view(-1, 2), next_sentence_label.view(-1)\n )\n outputs = (next_sentence_loss,) + outputs\n\n return outputs # (next_sentence_loss), seq_relationship_score, (hidden_states), (attentions)\n\n\n@add_start_docstrings(\n \"\"\"Bert Model transformer with a sequence classification/regression head on top (a linear layer on top of\n the pooled output) e.g. for GLUE tasks. \"\"\",\n BERT_START_DOCSTRING,\n BERT_INPUTS_DOCSTRING,\n)\nclass BertForSequenceClassification(BertPreTrainedModel):\n r\"\"\"\n **labels**: (`optional`) ``torch.LongTensor`` of shape ``(batch_size,)``:\n Labels for computing the sequence classification/regression loss.\n Indices should be in ``[0, ..., config.num_labels - 1]``.\n If ``config.num_labels == 1`` a regression loss is computed (Mean-Square loss),\n If ``config.num_labels > 1`` a classification loss is computed (Cross-Entropy).\n\n Outputs: `Tuple` comprising various elements depending on the configuration (config) and inputs:\n **loss**: (`optional`, returned when ``labels`` is provided) ``torch.FloatTensor`` of shape ``(1,)``:\n Classification (or regression if config.num_labels==1) loss.\n **logits**: ``torch.FloatTensor`` of shape ``(batch_size, config.num_labels)``\n Classification (or regression if config.num_labels==1) scores (before SoftMax).\n **hidden_states**: (`optional`, returned when ``config.output_hidden_states=True``)\n list of ``torch.FloatTensor`` (one for the output of each layer + the output of the embeddings)\n of shape ``(batch_size, sequence_length, hidden_size)``:\n Hidden-states of the model at the output of each layer plus the initial embedding outputs.\n **attentions**: (`optional`, returned when ``config.output_attentions=True``)\n list of ``torch.FloatTensor`` (one for each layer) of shape ``(batch_size, num_heads, sequence_length, sequence_length)``:\n Attentions weights after the attention softmax, used to compute the weighted average in the self-attention heads.\n\n Examples::\n\n tokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained('bert-base-uncased')\n model = BertForSequenceClassification.from_pretrained('bert-base-uncased')\n input_ids = torch.tensor(tokenizer.encode(\"Hello, my dog is cute\")).unsqueeze(0) # Batch size 1\n labels = torch.tensor([1]).unsqueeze(0) # Batch size 1\n outputs = model(input_ids, labels=labels)\n loss, logits = outputs[:2]\n\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, config):\n super(BertForSequenceClassification, self).__init__(config)\n self.num_labels = config.num_labels\n\n self.bert = BertModel(config)\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(config.hidden_dropout_prob)\n self.classifier = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, self.config.num_labels)\n\n self.init_weights()\n\n def forward(\n self,\n input_ids,\n token_type_ids=None,\n attention_mask=None,\n labels=None,\n position_ids=None,\n head_mask=None,\n ):\n outputs = self.bert(\n input_ids,\n position_ids=position_ids,\n token_type_ids=token_type_ids,\n attention_mask=attention_mask,\n head_mask=head_mask,\n )\n pooled_output = outputs[1]\n\n pooled_output = self.dropout(pooled_output)\n logits = self.classifier(pooled_output)\n\n outputs = (logits,) + outputs[\n 2:\n ] # add hidden states and attention if they are here\n\n if labels is not None:\n if self.num_labels == 1:\n # We are doing regression\n loss_fct = MSELoss()\n loss = loss_fct(logits.view(-1), labels.view(-1))\n else:\n loss_fct = CrossEntropyLoss()\n loss = loss_fct(logits.view(-1, self.num_labels), labels.view(-1))\n outputs = (loss,) + outputs\n\n return outputs # (loss), logits, (hidden_states), (attentions)\n\n\n@add_start_docstrings(\n \"\"\"Bert Model with a multiple choice classification head on top (a linear layer on top of\n the pooled output and a softmax) e.g. for RocStories/SWAG tasks. \"\"\",\n BERT_START_DOCSTRING,\n)\nclass BertForMultipleChoice(BertPreTrainedModel):\n r\"\"\"\n Inputs:\n **input_ids**: ``torch.LongTensor`` of shape ``(batch_size, num_choices, sequence_length)``:\n Indices of input sequence tokens in the vocabulary.\n The second dimension of the input (`num_choices`) indicates the number of choices to score.\n To match pre-training, BERT input sequence should be formatted with [CLS] and [SEP] tokens as follows:\n\n (a) For sequence pairs:\n\n ``tokens: [CLS] is this jack ##son ##ville ? [SEP] no it is not . [SEP]``\n\n ``token_type_ids: 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 1 1 1``\n\n (b) For single sequences:\n\n ``tokens: [CLS] the dog is hairy . [SEP]``\n\n ``token_type_ids: 0 0 0 0 0 0 0``\n\n Indices can be obtained using :class:`pytorch_transformers.BertTokenizer`.\n See :func:`pytorch_transformers.PreTrainedTokenizer.encode` and\n :func:`pytorch_transformers.PreTrainedTokenizer.convert_tokens_to_ids` for details.\n **token_type_ids**: (`optional`) ``torch.LongTensor`` of shape ``(batch_size, num_choices, sequence_length)``:\n Segment token indices to indicate first and second portions of the inputs.\n The second dimension of the input (`num_choices`) indicates the number of choices to score.\n Indices are selected in ``[0, 1]``: ``0`` corresponds to a `sentence A` token, ``1``\n corresponds to a `sentence B` token\n (see `BERT: Pre-training of Deep Bidirectional Transformers for Language Understanding`_ for more details).\n **attention_mask**: (`optional`) ``torch.FloatTensor`` of shape ``(batch_size, num_choices, sequence_length)``:\n Mask to avoid performing attention on padding token indices.\n The second dimension of the input (`num_choices`) indicates the number of choices to score.\n Mask values selected in ``[0, 1]``:\n ``1`` for tokens that are NOT MASKED, ``0`` for MASKED tokens.\n **head_mask**: (`optional`) ``torch.FloatTensor`` of shape ``(num_heads,)`` or ``(num_layers, num_heads)``:\n Mask to nullify selected heads of the self-attention modules.\n Mask values selected in ``[0, 1]``:\n ``1`` indicates the head is **not masked**, ``0`` indicates the head is **masked**.\n **labels**: (`optional`) ``torch.LongTensor`` of shape ``(batch_size,)``:\n Labels for computing the multiple choice classification loss.\n Indices should be in ``[0, ..., num_choices]`` where `num_choices` is the size of the second dimension\n of the input tensors. (see `input_ids` above)\n\n Outputs: `Tuple` comprising various elements depending on the configuration (config) and inputs:\n **loss**: (`optional`, returned when ``labels`` is provided) ``torch.FloatTensor`` of shape ``(1,)``:\n Classification loss.\n **classification_scores**: ``torch.FloatTensor`` of shape ``(batch_size, num_choices)`` where `num_choices` is the size of the second dimension\n of the input tensors. (see `input_ids` above).\n Classification scores (before SoftMax).\n **hidden_states**: (`optional`, returned when ``config.output_hidden_states=True``)\n list of ``torch.FloatTensor`` (one for the output of each layer + the output of the embeddings)\n of shape ``(batch_size, sequence_length, hidden_size)``:\n Hidden-states of the model at the output of each layer plus the initial embedding outputs.\n **attentions**: (`optional`, returned when ``config.output_attentions=True``)\n list of ``torch.FloatTensor`` (one for each layer) of shape ``(batch_size, num_heads, sequence_length, sequence_length)``:\n Attentions weights after the attention softmax, used to compute the weighted average in the self-attention heads.\n\n Examples::\n\n tokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained('bert-base-uncased')\n model = BertForMultipleChoice.from_pretrained('bert-base-uncased')\n choices = [\"Hello, my dog is cute\", \"Hello, my cat is amazing\"]\n input_ids = torch.tensor([tokenizer.encode(s) for s in choices]).unsqueeze(0) # Batch size 1, 2 choices\n labels = torch.tensor(1).unsqueeze(0) # Batch size 1\n outputs = model(input_ids, labels=labels)\n loss, classification_scores = outputs[:2]\n\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, config):\n super(BertForMultipleChoice, self).__init__(config)\n\n self.bert = BertModel(config)\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(config.hidden_dropout_prob)\n self.classifier = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, 1)\n\n self.init_weights()\n\n def forward(\n self,\n input_ids,\n token_type_ids=None,\n attention_mask=None,\n labels=None,\n position_ids=None,\n head_mask=None,\n ):\n num_choices = input_ids.shape[1]\n\n flat_input_ids = input_ids.view(-1, input_ids.size(-1))\n flat_position_ids = (\n position_ids.view(-1, position_ids.size(-1))\n if position_ids is not None\n else None\n )\n flat_token_type_ids = (\n token_type_ids.view(-1, token_type_ids.size(-1))\n if token_type_ids is not None\n else None\n )\n flat_attention_mask = (\n attention_mask.view(-1, attention_mask.size(-1))\n if attention_mask is not None\n else None\n )\n outputs = self.bert(\n flat_input_ids,\n position_ids=flat_position_ids,\n token_type_ids=flat_token_type_ids,\n attention_mask=flat_attention_mask,\n head_mask=head_mask,\n )\n pooled_output = outputs[1]\n\n pooled_output = self.dropout(pooled_output)\n logits = self.classifier(pooled_output)\n reshaped_logits = logits.view(-1, num_choices)\n\n outputs = (reshaped_logits,) + outputs[\n 2:\n ] # add hidden states and attention if they are here\n\n if labels is not None:\n loss_fct = CrossEntropyLoss()\n loss = loss_fct(reshaped_logits, labels)\n outputs = (loss,) + outputs\n\n return outputs # (loss), reshaped_logits, (hidden_states), (attentions)\n\n\n@add_start_docstrings(\n \"\"\"Bert Model with a token classification head on top (a linear layer on top of\n the hidden-states output) e.g. for Named-Entity-Recognition (NER) tasks. \"\"\",\n BERT_START_DOCSTRING,\n BERT_INPUTS_DOCSTRING,\n)\nclass BertForTokenClassification(BertPreTrainedModel):\n r\"\"\"\n **labels**: (`optional`) ``torch.LongTensor`` of shape ``(batch_size, sequence_length)``:\n Labels for computing the token classification loss.\n Indices should be in ``[0, ..., config.num_labels - 1]``.\n\n Outputs: `Tuple` comprising various elements depending on the configuration (config) and inputs:\n **loss**: (`optional`, returned when ``labels`` is provided) ``torch.FloatTensor`` of shape ``(1,)``:\n Classification loss.\n **scores**: ``torch.FloatTensor`` of shape ``(batch_size, sequence_length, config.num_labels)``\n Classification scores (before SoftMax).\n **hidden_states**: (`optional`, returned when ``config.output_hidden_states=True``)\n list of ``torch.FloatTensor`` (one for the output of each layer + the output of the embeddings)\n of shape ``(batch_size, sequence_length, hidden_size)``:\n Hidden-states of the model at the output of each layer plus the initial embedding outputs.\n **attentions**: (`optional`, returned when ``config.output_attentions=True``)\n list of ``torch.FloatTensor`` (one for each layer) of shape ``(batch_size, num_heads, sequence_length, sequence_length)``:\n Attentions weights after the attention softmax, used to compute the weighted average in the self-attention heads.\n\n Examples::\n\n tokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained('bert-base-uncased')\n model = BertForTokenClassification.from_pretrained('bert-base-uncased')\n input_ids = torch.tensor(tokenizer.encode(\"Hello, my dog is cute\")).unsqueeze(0) # Batch size 1\n labels = torch.tensor([1] * input_ids.size(1)).unsqueeze(0) # Batch size 1\n outputs = model(input_ids, labels=labels)\n loss, scores = outputs[:2]\n\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, config):\n super(BertForTokenClassification, self).__init__(config)\n self.num_labels = config.num_labels\n\n self.bert = BertModel(config)\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(config.hidden_dropout_prob)\n self.classifier = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, config.num_labels)\n\n self.init_weights()\n\n def forward(\n self,\n input_ids,\n token_type_ids=None,\n attention_mask=None,\n labels=None,\n position_ids=None,\n head_mask=None,\n ):\n outputs = self.bert(\n input_ids,\n position_ids=position_ids,\n token_type_ids=token_type_ids,\n attention_mask=attention_mask,\n head_mask=head_mask,\n )\n sequence_output = outputs[0]\n\n sequence_output = self.dropout(sequence_output)\n logits = self.classifier(sequence_output)\n\n outputs = (logits,) + outputs[\n 2:\n ] # add hidden states and attention if they are here\n if labels is not None:\n loss_fct = CrossEntropyLoss()\n # Only keep active parts of the loss\n if attention_mask is not None:\n active_loss = attention_mask.view(-1) == 1\n active_logits = logits.view(-1, self.num_labels)[active_loss]\n active_labels = labels.view(-1)[active_loss]\n loss = loss_fct(active_logits, active_labels)\n else:\n loss = loss_fct(logits.view(-1, self.num_labels), labels.view(-1))\n outputs = (loss,) + outputs\n\n return outputs # (loss), scores, (hidden_states), (attentions)\n\n\n@add_start_docstrings(\n \"\"\"Bert Model with a span classification head on top for extractive question-answering tasks like SQuAD (a linear layers on top of\n the hidden-states output to compute `span start logits` and `span end logits`). \"\"\",\n BERT_START_DOCSTRING,\n BERT_INPUTS_DOCSTRING,\n)\nclass BertForQuestionAnswering(BertPreTrainedModel):\n r\"\"\"\n **start_positions**: (`optional`) ``torch.LongTensor`` of shape ``(batch_size,)``:\n Labels for position (index) of the start of the labelled span for computing the token classification loss.\n Positions are clamped to the length of the sequence (`sequence_length`).\n Position outside of the sequence are not taken into account for computing the loss.\n **end_positions**: (`optional`) ``torch.LongTensor`` of shape ``(batch_size,)``:\n Labels for position (index) of the end of the labelled span for computing the token classification loss.\n Positions are clamped to the length of the sequence (`sequence_length`).\n Position outside of the sequence are not taken into account for computing the loss.\n\n Outputs: `Tuple` comprising various elements depending on the configuration (config) and inputs:\n **loss**: (`optional`, returned when ``labels`` is provided) ``torch.FloatTensor`` of shape ``(1,)``:\n Total span extraction loss is the sum of a Cross-Entropy for the start and end positions.\n **start_scores**: ``torch.FloatTensor`` of shape ``(batch_size, sequence_length,)``\n Span-start scores (before SoftMax).\n **end_scores**: ``torch.FloatTensor`` of shape ``(batch_size, sequence_length,)``\n Span-end scores (before SoftMax).\n **hidden_states**: (`optional`, returned when ``config.output_hidden_states=True``)\n list of ``torch.FloatTensor`` (one for the output of each layer + the output of the embeddings)\n of shape ``(batch_size, sequence_length, hidden_size)``:\n Hidden-states of the model at the output of each layer plus the initial embedding outputs.\n **attentions**: (`optional`, returned when ``config.output_attentions=True``)\n list of ``torch.FloatTensor`` (one for each layer) of shape ``(batch_size, num_heads, sequence_length, sequence_length)``:\n Attentions weights after the attention softmax, used to compute the weighted average in the self-attention heads.\n\n Examples::\n\n tokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained('bert-base-uncased')\n model = BertForQuestionAnswering.from_pretrained('bert-base-uncased')\n input_ids = torch.tensor(tokenizer.encode(\"Hello, my dog is cute\")).unsqueeze(0) # Batch size 1\n start_positions = torch.tensor([1])\n end_positions = torch.tensor([3])\n outputs = model(input_ids, start_positions=start_positions, end_positions=end_positions)\n loss, start_scores, end_scores = outputs[:2]\n\n \"\"\"\n\n def __init__(self, config):\n super(BertForQuestionAnswering, self).__init__(config)\n self.num_labels = config.num_labels\n\n self.bert = BertModel(config)\n self.qa_outputs = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, config.num_labels)\n\n self.init_weights()\n\n def forward(\n self,\n input_ids,\n token_type_ids=None,\n attention_mask=None,\n start_positions=None,\n end_positions=None,\n position_ids=None,\n head_mask=None,\n ):\n outputs = self.bert(\n input_ids,\n position_ids=position_ids,\n token_type_ids=token_type_ids,\n attention_mask=attention_mask,\n head_mask=head_mask,\n )\n sequence_output = outputs[0]\n\n logits = self.qa_outputs(sequence_output)\n start_logits, end_logits = logits.split(1, dim=-1)\n start_logits = start_logits.squeeze(-1)\n end_logits = end_logits.squeeze(-1)\n\n outputs = (start_logits, end_logits,) + outputs[2:]\n if start_positions is not None and end_positions is not None:\n # If we are on multi-GPU, split add a dimension\n if len(start_positions.size()) > 1:\n start_positions = start_positions.squeeze(-1)\n if len(end_positions.size()) > 1:\n end_positions = end_positions.squeeze(-1)\n # sometimes the start/end positions are outside our model inputs, we ignore these terms\n ignored_index = start_logits.size(1)\n start_positions.clamp_(0, ignored_index)\n end_positions.clamp_(0, ignored_index)\n\n loss_fct = CrossEntropyLoss(ignore_index=ignored_index)\n start_loss = loss_fct(start_logits, start_positions)\n end_loss = loss_fct(end_logits, end_positions)\n total_loss = (start_loss + end_loss) / 2\n outputs = (total_loss,) + outputs\n\n return (\n outputs # (loss), start_logits, end_logits, (hidden_states), (attentions)\n )\n" }, { "path": "step3_model1_bert_code/callbacks.py", "content": "from poutyne.framework.callbacks import Callback, CSVLogger\n\n\nclass LosswiseSessionHandler:\n def __init__(self, api_key, tag=\"\", params=None):\n import losswise\n\n losswise.set_api_key(api_key)\n self._session = losswise.Session(\n tag=tag, params=params if params is not None else {}, track_git=False\n )\n self._graphs = dict()\n\n def create_graph(\n self, graph_name, xlabel=\"\", ylabel=\"\", kind=None, display_interval=1\n ):\n assert isinstance(graph_name, str)\n if graph_name not in self._graphs:\n self._graphs[graph_name] = self._session.graph(\n title=graph_name,\n xlabel=xlabel,\n ylabel=ylabel,\n kind=kind,\n display_interval=display_interval,\n )\n return self._graphs[graph_name]\n\n def __getitem__(self, graph_name):\n if graph_name not in self._graphs:\n self.create_graph(graph_name)\n return self._graphs[graph_name]\n\n def done(self):\n self._session.done()\n\n\nclass LosswiseCallback(Callback):\n def __init__(\n self,\n api_key: str = None,\n losswise_session: LosswiseSessionHandler = None,\n prefix=\"\",\n tag=\"my awesome DL\",\n period=1,\n keep_open=False,\n training_params=None,\n param_groups=dict(),\n ):\n super().__init__()\n assert (api_key is None) ^ (losswise_session is None)\n\n if losswise_session is None:\n self._session = LosswiseSessionHandler(\n api_key, tag=tag, params=training_params\n )\n else:\n self._session = losswise_session\n self._keep_open = keep_open\n self.period = period\n self.prefix = prefix\n self.param_groups = param_groups\n self.steps_elapsed = 0\n\n def on_train_begin(self, logs):\n self.metrics = [\"loss\"] + self.model.metrics_names\n\n self._session.create_graph(\"loss\", xlabel=\"epoch\", kind=\"min\")\n self._session.create_graph(\"learning rate\", xlabel=\"batch\")\n for name in self.model.metrics_names:\n self._session.create_graph(name, xlabel=\"epoch\")\n self._session.create_graph(\n name + \"_iter\", xlabel=\"batch\", display_interval=self.params[\"steps\"]\n )\n for name in self.param_groups:\n self._session.create_graph(name, xlabel=\"epoch\")\n\n def on_train_end(self, logs):\n if not self._keep_open:\n self._session.done()\n\n def on_epoch_end(self, epoch, logs):\n for name in self.metrics:\n graph_args = dict()\n if name in logs:\n graph_args[self.prefix + name] = logs[name]\n if \"val_\" + name in logs:\n graph_args[self.prefix + \"val_\" + name] = logs[\"val_\" + name]\n self._session[name].append(epoch, graph_args)\n\n for group, names in self.param_groups.items():\n for name in names:\n graph_args = dict()\n if name in logs:\n graph_args[self.prefix + name] = logs[name]\n if \"val_\" + name in logs:\n graph_args[self.prefix + \"val_\" + name] = logs[\"val_\" + name]\n self._session[group].append(epoch, graph_args)\n\n def on_batch_end(self, batch, logs):\n self.steps_elapsed += 1\n if self.steps_elapsed % self.period == 0:\n for name in self.metrics:\n if name in logs:\n self._session[name + \"_iter\"].append(\n self.steps_elapsed, {self.prefix + name: logs[name]}\n )\n\n if hasattr(self.model.optimizer, \"get_lr\"):\n learning_rates = [self.model.optimizer.get_lr()[0]]\n else:\n learning_rates = (\n param_group[\"lr\"]\n for param_group in self.model.optimizer.param_groups\n )\n for group_idx, lr in enumerate(learning_rates):\n self._session[\"learning rate\"].append(\n self.steps_elapsed, {\"lr_param_group_\" + str(group_idx): lr}\n )\n\n\nclass CSVParamLogger(CSVLogger):\n def __init__(\n self,\n filename,\n *,\n batch_granularity=False,\n separator=\",\",\n append=False,\n extra_metrics=[]\n ):\n super(CSVParamLogger, self).__init__(\n filename,\n batch_granularity=batch_granularity,\n separator=separator,\n append=append,\n )\n self.extra_metrics = extra_metrics\n\n def on_train_begin(self, logs):\n metrics = [\"loss\"] + self.model.metrics_names\n\n if self.batch_granularity:\n self.fieldnames = [\"epoch\", \"batch\", \"size\", \"time\", \"lr\"]\n else:\n self.fieldnames = [\"epoch\", \"time\", \"lr\"]\n self.fieldnames += metrics\n self.fieldnames += [\"val_\" + metric for metric in metrics]\n self.fieldnames += self.extra_metrics\n self._on_train_begin_write(logs)\n" }, { "path": "step3_model1_bert_code/data/__init__.py", "content": "from .dataset import *\nfrom .sampler import *\n" }, { "path": "step3_model1_bert_code/data/augmentation/__init__.py", "content": "from .tokenization import *\n" }, { "path": "step3_model1_bert_code/data/augmentation/tokenization.py", "content": "import numpy as np\nfrom typing import List\nfrom transformers import BertTokenizer\n\n\nclass BertRandomTokenizer(BertTokenizer):\n def __init__(\n self,\n vocab_file,\n lower_case_prob=1.0,\n basic_tokenize_prob=1.0,\n piece_split_prob=0.0,\n recursive=False,\n **kwargs\n ):\n super(BertRandomTokenizer, self).__init__(\n vocab_file,\n do_lower_case=lower_case_prob > 0,\n do_basic_tokenize=True,\n **kwargs\n )\n self.lower_case_prob = lower_case_prob\n self.basic_tokenize_prob = basic_tokenize_prob\n self.piece_split_prob = piece_split_prob\n self.recursive = recursive\n\n def _split_word_piece(self, token: str) -> List[str]:\n if token in self.all_special_tokens:\n return [token]\n\n token_id = self.wordpiece_tokenizer.vocab.pop(token)\n pieces = self.wordpiece_tokenizer.tokenize(token)\n self.wordpiece_tokenizer.vocab[token] = token_id\n\n if self.unk_token not in pieces and len(pieces) > 0:\n return pieces\n else:\n return [token]\n\n def _tokenize(self, text):\n self.basic_tokenizer.do_lower_case = (\n np.random.uniform(0, 1) <= self.lower_case_prob\n )\n self.do_basic_tokenize = np.random.uniform(0, 1) <= self.basic_tokenize_prob\n\n def unroll(token_list):\n tokens = []\n for item in token_list:\n if not isinstance(item, list):\n tokens.append(item)\n else:\n tokens += item\n return tokens\n\n tokens = super(BertRandomTokenizer, self)._tokenize(text)\n\n current_pos = 0\n while current_pos < len(tokens):\n if np.random.uniform(0, 1) <= self.piece_split_prob:\n tokens[current_pos] = self._split_word_piece(tokens[current_pos])\n if self.recursive:\n tokens = unroll(tokens)\n current_pos += 1\n\n tokens = unroll(tokens)\n return tokens\n" }, { "path": "step3_model1_bert_code/data/dataset.py", "content": "from torch.utils.data import Dataset\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nfrom typing import List, Text\nfrom transformers import PreTrainedTokenizer\n\nEASY_QUESTION_TARGETS = [\n \"question_conversational\",\n \"question_has_commonly_accepted_answer\",\n \"question_type_entity\",\n \"question_opinion_seeking\",\n \"question_interestingness_self\",\n \"question_well_written\",\n \"question_multi_intent\",\n \"question_body_critical\",\n \"question_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"question_type_choice\",\n \"question_type_instructions\",\n]\nEASY_ANSWER_TARGETS = [\n \"answer_type_instructions\",\n \"answer_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"answer_level_of_information\",\n]\nHARD_QUESTION_TARGETS = [\n \"question_type_spelling\",\n \"question_not_really_a_question\",\n \"question_type_consequence\",\n \"question_expect_short_answer\",\n \"question_type_compare\",\n \"question_type_procedure\",\n \"question_type_definition\",\n \"question_interestingness_others\",\n \"question_fact_seeking\",\n \"question_asker_intent_understanding\",\n]\nHARD_ANSWER_TARGETS = [\n \"answer_helpful\",\n \"answer_type_procedure\",\n \"answer_satisfaction\",\n \"answer_plausible\",\n \"answer_well_written\",\n \"answer_relevance\",\n]\nQUESTION_TARGETS = [\n \"question_asker_intent_understanding\",\n \"question_body_critical\",\n \"question_conversational\",\n \"question_expect_short_answer\",\n \"question_fact_seeking\",\n \"question_has_commonly_accepted_answer\",\n \"question_interestingness_others\",\n \"question_interestingness_self\",\n \"question_multi_intent\",\n \"question_not_really_a_question\",\n \"question_opinion_seeking\",\n \"question_type_choice\",\n \"question_type_compare\",\n \"question_type_consequence\",\n \"question_type_definition\",\n \"question_type_entity\",\n \"question_type_instructions\",\n \"question_type_procedure\",\n \"question_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"question_type_spelling\",\n \"question_well_written\",\n]\nANSWER_TARGETS = [\n \"answer_helpful\",\n \"answer_level_of_information\",\n \"answer_plausible\",\n \"answer_relevance\",\n \"answer_satisfaction\",\n \"answer_type_instructions\",\n \"answer_type_procedure\",\n \"answer_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"answer_well_written\",\n]\nALL_TARGETS = QUESTION_TARGETS + ANSWER_TARGETS\n\n\nclass QuestDataset(Dataset):\n def __init__(\n self,\n data_df,\n tokenizer,\n max_seg_length=256,\n target_cols=\"all_targets\",\n answer_ratio=0.5,\n title_ratio=0.5,\n use_title=True,\n use_body=True,\n use_answer=True,\n title_col=\"question_title\",\n body_col=\"question_body\",\n answer_col=\"answer\",\n title_transform=None,\n body_transform=None,\n answer_transform=None,\n ):\n self.tokenizer: PreTrainedTokenizer = tokenizer\n self.max_seg_length = max_seg_length\n self.target_cols = (\n QUESTION_TARGETS + ANSWER_TARGETS\n if target_cols is \"all_targets\"\n else target_cols\n )\n self.answer_ratio = answer_ratio\n self.title_ratio = title_ratio\n\n if target_cols is not None:\n if target_cols is \"all_targets\":\n target_cols = ALL_TARGETS\n self.targets = data_df[target_cols].values\n\n self.question_title = data_df[title_col].values if use_title else None\n self.question_body = data_df[body_col].values if use_body else None\n self.answer = data_df[answer_col].values if use_answer else None\n\n self.title_transform = title_transform\n self.body_transform = body_transform\n self.answer_transform = answer_transform\n\n def _encode_segments(self, *text_segments: List[Text]) -> List[List[int]]:\n # if self.transform is not None:\n # text_segments = [self.transform(txt) for txt in text_segments]\n return [\n self.tokenizer.encode(\n txt, max_length=self.max_seg_length, add_special_tokens=False\n )\n if txt is not None\n else []\n for txt in text_segments\n ]\n\n def _process(self, title=None, body=None, answer=None):\n input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids = self._prepare_features(\n title, body, answer\n )\n\n input_ids = self._pad_and_truncate(\n input_ids, pad_value=self.tokenizer.pad_token_id\n )\n token_type_ids = self._pad_and_truncate(\n token_type_ids, pad_value=token_type_ids[-1]\n )\n attention_mask = self._pad_and_truncate(attention_mask, pad_value=0)\n return input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids\n\n def _pad_and_truncate(self, features, pad_value=0):\n features = list(features[: self.max_seg_length])\n features = features + [pad_value,] * (self.max_seg_length - len(features))\n features = np.array(features)\n return features\n\n @staticmethod\n def _balance_segments(\n first_segment_length, second_segment_length, second_ratio, max_length\n ):\n first_segment_length = min(\n first_segment_length,\n (1 - second_ratio) * max_length\n + max(second_ratio * max_length - second_segment_length, 0),\n )\n\n second_segment_length = min(\n second_segment_length,\n second_ratio * max_length\n + max((1 - second_ratio) * max_length - first_segment_length, 0),\n )\n\n return int(first_segment_length), int(second_segment_length)\n\n def _prepare_features(self, title, body, answer):\n title_input_ids, body_input_ids, answer_input_ids = self._encode_segments(\n title, body, answer\n )\n\n title_length = len(title_input_ids)\n body_length = len(body_input_ids)\n answer_length = len(answer_input_ids)\n\n question_length, answer_length = self._balance_segments(\n title_length + body_length,\n answer_length,\n self.answer_ratio,\n self.max_seg_length,\n )\n\n title_length, body_length = self._balance_segments(\n title_length, body_length, self.title_ratio, question_length\n )\n\n # TODO: generalize this\n question_input_ids = body_input_ids[:body_length]\n if title_length > 0:\n question_input_ids = (\n title_input_ids[:title_length]\n + [self.tokenizer.sep_token_id]\n + question_input_ids\n )\n answer_input_ids = answer_input_ids[:answer_length]\n\n input_ids = self.tokenizer.build_inputs_with_special_tokens(\n question_input_ids, answer_input_ids if answer_length > 0 else None\n )\n token_type_ids = self.tokenizer.create_token_type_ids_from_sequences(\n question_input_ids, answer_input_ids\n )\n attention_mask = [1.0] * len(input_ids)\n\n return input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids\n\n def _get_text(self, index):\n title = self.question_title[index] if self.question_title is not None else None\n body = self.question_body[index] if self.question_body is not None else None\n answer = self.answer[index] if self.answer is not None else None\n\n def apply_transform(txt, transform):\n if transform is not None:\n return transform(txt, idx=index)\n else:\n return txt\n\n title, body, answer = [\n apply_transform(txt, transform)\n for txt, transform in zip(\n [title, body, answer],\n [self.title_transform, self.body_transform, self.answer_transform],\n )\n ]\n\n return title, body, answer\n\n def __getitem__(self, index):\n title, body, answer = self._get_text(index)\n\n input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids = self._process(title, body, answer)\n targets = self.targets[index]\n\n input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids = map(\n torch.LongTensor, [input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids]\n )\n targets = torch.FloatTensor(targets)\n\n return (input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids), targets\n\n def __len__(self):\n if self.answer is not None:\n return len(self.answer)\n elif self.question_title is not None:\n return len(self.question_title)\n else:\n return len(self.question_body)\n\n\nclass TestQuestDataset(QuestDataset):\n def __init__(\n self,\n data_df,\n tokenizer,\n max_seg_length=256,\n answer_ratio=0.5,\n title_ratio=0.5,\n use_title=True,\n use_body=True,\n use_answer=True,\n title_col=\"question_title\",\n body_col=\"question_body\",\n answer_col=\"answer\",\n ):\n super(TestQuestDataset, self).__init__(\n data_df=data_df,\n tokenizer=tokenizer,\n max_seg_length=max_seg_length,\n target_cols=None,\n answer_ratio=answer_ratio,\n title_ratio=title_ratio,\n use_title=use_title,\n use_body=use_body,\n use_answer=use_answer,\n title_col=title_col,\n body_col=body_col,\n answer_col=answer_col,\n )\n\n def __getitem__(self, index):\n title, body, answer = self._get_text(index)\n\n input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids = self._process(title, body, answer)\n input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids = map(\n torch.LongTensor, [input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids]\n )\n return (input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids)\n\n\nclass QuestSiameseDataset(QuestDataset):\n def __getitem__(self, index):\n title, body, answer = self._get_text(index)\n\n input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids = self._process(\n title=title, body=body\n )\n question_inputs = list(\n map(torch.LongTensor, [input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids])\n )\n\n input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids = self._process(body=answer)\n answer_inputs = list(\n map(torch.LongTensor, [input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids])\n )\n\n targets = self.targets[index]\n targets = torch.FloatTensor(targets)\n\n return (question_inputs, answer_inputs), targets\n" }, { "path": "step3_model1_bert_code/data/folds.csv", "content": "row_id,qa_id,fold\n0,0,1\n1,1,1\n2,2,4\n3,3,3\n4,5,1\n5,6,3\n6,7,4\n7,9,1\n8,11,2\n9,12,4\n10,14,2\n11,15,3\n12,16,0\n13,17,1\n14,18,1\n15,19,0\n16,22,1\n17,23,2\n18,24,3\n19,25,0\n20,27,2\n21,29,2\n22,30,1\n23,31,1\n24,32,4\n25,33,0\n26,36,1\n27,38,2\n28,40,0\n29,41,0\n30,47,1\n31,48,2\n32,50,2\n33,51,4\n34,52,4\n35,54,1\n36,55,2\n37,56,0\n38,58,4\n39,59,0\n40,60,3\n41,61,3\n42,63,4\n43,64,2\n44,65,3\n45,68,1\n46,71,3\n47,72,0\n48,74,3\n49,75,2\n50,77,0\n51,78,1\n52,79,4\n53,80,4\n54,81,4\n55,82,0\n56,83,3\n57,87,0\n58,88,0\n59,91,3\n60,92,1\n61,95,4\n62,96,2\n63,97,1\n64,98,3\n65,99,1\n66,104,2\n67,105,4\n68,108,3\n69,109,3\n70,110,1\n71,111,4\n72,112,0\n73,115,1\n74,117,4\n75,118,0\n76,119,4\n77,121,2\n78,127,3\n79,128,2\n80,129,3\n81,131,2\n82,135,2\n83,138,4\n84,139,3\n85,141,1\n86,143,4\n87,144,2\n88,145,0\n89,148,0\n90,149,0\n91,151,0\n92,152,1\n93,154,1\n94,155,0\n95,156,2\n96,157,2\n97,158,0\n98,160,3\n99,162,0\n100,163,0\n101,164,2\n102,168,2\n103,169,1\n104,170,4\n105,171,3\n106,174,1\n107,175,0\n108,176,3\n109,177,4\n110,178,1\n111,180,4\n112,181,4\n113,182,4\n114,183,0\n115,184,1\n116,185,1\n117,186,0\n118,187,1\n119,188,3\n120,191,4\n121,192,1\n122,193,2\n123,194,4\n124,196,3\n125,198,2\n126,201,3\n127,202,3\n128,203,4\n129,204,0\n130,207,4\n131,210,1\n132,211,2\n133,213,2\n134,214,2\n135,215,3\n136,216,4\n137,217,1\n138,219,3\n139,222,1\n140,223,2\n141,224,3\n142,226,3\n143,227,2\n144,229,0\n145,230,0\n146,231,1\n147,233,4\n148,234,0\n149,236,4\n150,238,3\n151,239,1\n152,240,3\n153,241,3\n154,242,1\n155,243,1\n156,247,2\n157,248,1\n158,249,0\n159,250,4\n160,253,2\n161,254,4\n162,256,0\n163,259,3\n164,261,1\n165,262,2\n166,263,1\n167,264,1\n168,265,4\n169,266,1\n170,268,3\n171,269,0\n172,270,4\n173,271,0\n174,272,2\n175,273,2\n176,274,4\n177,276,0\n178,277,1\n179,279,4\n180,280,3\n181,283,1\n182,285,3\n183,286,1\n184,287,0\n185,288,2\n186,294,0\n187,298,0\n188,302,4\n189,303,3\n190,304,1\n191,305,0\n192,306,0\n193,308,3\n194,309,1\n195,311,3\n196,313,1\n197,317,0\n198,319,1\n199,320,4\n200,321,2\n201,324,1\n202,325,4\n203,326,1\n204,328,2\n205,329,2\n206,330,0\n207,331,0\n208,332,2\n209,333,1\n210,335,0\n211,337,4\n212,339,2\n213,341,4\n214,345,0\n215,346,4\n216,347,0\n217,348,2\n218,350,4\n219,351,4\n220,352,3\n221,353,3\n222,354,0\n223,355,1\n224,358,2\n225,359,4\n226,363,4\n227,364,0\n228,365,3\n229,366,3\n230,367,2\n231,368,1\n232,369,4\n233,370,3\n234,372,0\n235,377,3\n236,378,0\n237,380,0\n238,383,0\n239,384,4\n240,385,1\n241,386,3\n242,388,0\n243,389,0\n244,392,4\n245,393,2\n246,396,3\n247,398,2\n248,400,2\n249,402,3\n250,404,0\n251,405,3\n252,406,1\n253,409,2\n254,410,2\n255,412,4\n256,413,1\n257,415,1\n258,419,2\n259,420,0\n260,422,2\n261,424,1\n262,425,1\n263,426,4\n264,428,4\n265,430,2\n266,431,4\n267,433,3\n268,434,3\n269,435,3\n270,436,3\n271,437,1\n272,438,2\n273,439,2\n274,440,3\n275,441,0\n276,442,1\n277,446,1\n278,447,0\n279,450,4\n280,452,0\n281,453,0\n282,454,4\n283,456,3\n284,459,4\n285,460,4\n286,462,3\n287,463,2\n288,464,2\n289,466,4\n290,467,3\n291,468,2\n292,469,1\n293,471,0\n294,473,3\n295,475,3\n296,477,4\n297,478,2\n298,480,1\n299,481,4\n300,485,3\n301,486,2\n302,488,4\n303,489,2\n304,492,0\n305,493,4\n306,494,0\n307,496,4\n308,497,3\n309,498,0\n310,499,4\n311,500,2\n312,501,3\n313,502,3\n314,503,1\n315,507,4\n316,508,4\n317,509,1\n318,510,1\n319,512,2\n320,514,2\n321,515,4\n322,516,4\n323,517,3\n324,519,3\n325,521,4\n326,523,2\n327,525,0\n328,527,3\n329,528,1\n330,530,4\n331,531,1\n332,532,4\n333,533,0\n334,534,2\n335,535,4\n336,536,3\n337,537,1\n338,540,2\n339,541,3\n340,543,4\n341,544,3\n342,547,1\n343,548,1\n344,549,3\n345,550,4\n346,552,3\n347,553,2\n348,554,2\n349,555,4\n350,556,4\n351,557,4\n352,559,3\n353,560,2\n354,561,3\n355,564,3\n356,565,2\n357,566,3\n358,567,3\n359,568,4\n360,570,2\n361,571,2\n362,572,0\n363,573,2\n364,574,0\n365,575,2\n366,577,4\n367,580,4\n368,581,3\n369,582,4\n370,583,3\n371,586,1\n372,587,1\n373,590,0\n374,591,4\n375,592,3\n376,593,1\n377,594,0\n378,596,2\n379,597,2\n380,598,0\n381,601,3\n382,602,3\n383,603,3\n384,605,3\n385,607,2\n386,608,3\n387,609,2\n388,610,0\n389,611,4\n390,612,0\n391,613,0\n392,616,2\n393,617,2\n394,618,2\n395,619,1\n396,620,1\n397,621,2\n398,622,1\n399,623,0\n400,624,4\n401,626,1\n402,627,0\n403,628,3\n404,630,2\n405,631,3\n406,632,3\n407,633,3\n408,634,4\n409,635,3\n410,636,2\n411,638,1\n412,639,3\n413,643,0\n414,644,2\n415,645,3\n416,646,1\n417,648,4\n418,649,1\n419,651,2\n420,652,1\n421,653,2\n422,655,2\n423,656,3\n424,658,3\n425,659,4\n426,661,4\n427,662,1\n428,663,3\n429,664,2\n430,667,4\n431,670,0\n432,672,0\n433,673,0\n434,674,3\n435,675,4\n436,676,1\n437,677,1\n438,678,2\n439,679,1\n440,684,0\n441,687,0\n442,688,0\n443,690,0\n444,693,4\n445,694,1\n446,696,4\n447,697,0\n448,698,1\n449,701,0\n450,702,3\n451,704,2\n452,705,0\n453,706,1\n454,708,3\n455,709,3\n456,710,1\n457,712,1\n458,713,1\n459,714,1\n460,716,3\n461,717,3\n462,718,4\n463,719,0\n464,720,0\n465,721,1\n466,723,2\n467,724,4\n468,730,0\n469,731,1\n470,732,3\n471,734,0\n472,736,4\n473,737,2\n474,738,1\n475,739,1\n476,741,3\n477,742,4\n478,744,1\n479,745,4\n480,747,0\n481,749,3\n482,750,1\n483,753,0\n484,754,1\n485,755,3\n486,758,0\n487,759,3\n488,762,0\n489,763,3\n490,764,2\n491,766,2\n492,767,3\n493,768,2\n494,772,0\n495,774,1\n496,775,4\n497,776,3\n498,778,2\n499,779,0\n500,780,3\n501,781,4\n502,782,1\n503,784,2\n504,785,4\n505,788,2\n506,789,1\n507,790,0\n508,791,1\n509,795,4\n510,796,4\n511,803,1\n512,805,0\n513,807,1\n514,809,2\n515,810,4\n516,814,2\n517,815,4\n518,816,2\n519,817,4\n520,819,1\n521,820,4\n522,823,4\n523,824,2\n524,825,0\n525,827,4\n526,829,1\n527,831,2\n528,832,4\n529,833,2\n530,834,3\n531,835,0\n532,836,3\n533,838,0\n534,839,0\n535,840,2\n536,841,4\n537,843,3\n538,847,3\n539,848,1\n540,850,1\n541,852,2\n542,854,2\n543,855,2\n544,857,4\n545,858,0\n546,859,1\n547,860,1\n548,863,3\n549,864,2\n550,865,2\n551,866,4\n552,867,1\n553,869,0\n554,873,2\n555,874,2\n556,875,1\n557,878,1\n558,879,3\n559,880,2\n560,881,0\n561,882,0\n562,883,3\n563,886,3\n564,887,0\n565,888,1\n566,889,0\n567,891,0\n568,892,0\n569,893,3\n570,894,3\n571,895,4\n572,896,2\n573,897,3\n574,898,4\n575,899,2\n576,900,3\n577,902,2\n578,903,0\n579,906,2\n580,907,1\n581,908,3\n582,909,3\n583,910,3\n584,911,1\n585,912,1\n586,913,0\n587,914,1\n588,915,2\n589,916,1\n590,918,3\n591,919,0\n592,925,2\n593,926,3\n594,927,4\n595,930,2\n596,933,1\n597,935,1\n598,937,2\n599,940,3\n600,941,1\n601,942,0\n602,943,1\n603,944,4\n604,946,0\n605,947,3\n606,948,3\n607,950,4\n608,951,1\n609,953,4\n610,954,2\n611,956,2\n612,958,0\n613,959,0\n614,961,3\n615,964,2\n616,966,3\n617,967,2\n618,970,4\n619,974,4\n620,975,3\n621,977,1\n622,980,1\n623,982,1\n624,983,3\n625,984,1\n626,985,2\n627,990,0\n628,991,3\n629,992,1\n630,994,3\n631,995,1\n632,997,2\n633,999,4\n634,1000,3\n635,1001,2\n636,1004,3\n637,1006,2\n638,1009,4\n639,1010,4\n640,1011,4\n641,1013,3\n642,1015,4\n643,1017,2\n644,1018,2\n645,1024,0\n646,1025,4\n647,1026,3\n648,1029,3\n649,1030,3\n650,1031,1\n651,1034,3\n652,1035,4\n653,1036,0\n654,1040,4\n655,1042,4\n656,1043,3\n657,1044,2\n658,1047,2\n659,1048,4\n660,1049,0\n661,1050,0\n662,1051,4\n663,1052,0\n664,1053,2\n665,1055,1\n666,1057,0\n667,1058,2\n668,1059,3\n669,1061,3\n670,1063,4\n671,1064,4\n672,1065,4\n673,1066,1\n674,1067,0\n675,1068,3\n676,1069,4\n677,1070,2\n678,1071,1\n679,1072,1\n680,1073,0\n681,1074,4\n682,1077,2\n683,1078,0\n684,1080,2\n685,1081,0\n686,1083,0\n687,1084,2\n688,1086,0\n689,1087,1\n690,1088,4\n691,1089,1\n692,1092,3\n693,1093,4\n694,1095,0\n695,1096,1\n696,1098,1\n697,1102,2\n698,1103,3\n699,1105,2\n700,1106,1\n701,1107,1\n702,1111,1\n703,1112,0\n704,1113,1\n705,1115,3\n706,1116,0\n707,1117,3\n708,1120,4\n709,1122,2\n710,1123,0\n711,1126,0\n712,1129,3\n713,1130,2\n714,1131,0\n715,1132,0\n716,1133,4\n717,1135,4\n718,1137,4\n719,1139,4\n720,1141,4\n721,1142,0\n722,1146,1\n723,1147,3\n724,1149,2\n725,1155,4\n726,1156,0\n727,1157,2\n728,1160,0\n729,1161,0\n730,1162,0\n731,1163,2\n732,1165,3\n733,1166,2\n734,1167,2\n735,1168,1\n736,1169,1\n737,1170,0\n738,1172,1\n739,1173,1\n740,1174,0\n741,1176,3\n742,1177,3\n743,1178,0\n744,1179,4\n745,1180,4\n746,1181,0\n747,1182,0\n748,1184,2\n749,1185,3\n750,1186,4\n751,1187,0\n752,1188,3\n753,1191,0\n754,1192,1\n755,1193,0\n756,1197,4\n757,1198,4\n758,1199,4\n759,1202,3\n760,1203,2\n761,1204,2\n762,1205,4\n763,1206,1\n764,1207,0\n765,1208,1\n766,1209,4\n767,1212,4\n768,1213,4\n769,1215,0\n770,1217,4\n771,1218,2\n772,1219,3\n773,1222,2\n774,1225,4\n775,1227,4\n776,1235,2\n777,1237,2\n778,1239,0\n779,1240,4\n780,1241,4\n781,1242,1\n782,1244,4\n783,1245,2\n784,1246,0\n785,1250,4\n786,1251,0\n787,1252,2\n788,1253,3\n789,1254,4\n790,1255,2\n791,1256,0\n792,1257,1\n793,1259,2\n794,1260,3\n795,1261,0\n796,1262,0\n797,1264,4\n798,1267,4\n799,1268,3\n800,1269,0\n801,1270,2\n802,1271,4\n803,1273,4\n804,1274,3\n805,1275,3\n806,1276,3\n807,1277,2\n808,1279,0\n809,1280,1\n810,1283,1\n811,1284,4\n812,1285,4\n813,1289,4\n814,1290,0\n815,1291,3\n816,1292,2\n817,1294,3\n818,1296,4\n819,1298,4\n820,1299,1\n821,1303,3\n822,1305,3\n823,1306,1\n824,1307,2\n825,1309,0\n826,1311,0\n827,1316,3\n828,1320,0\n829,1321,1\n830,1322,1\n831,1325,1\n832,1326,3\n833,1327,3\n834,1328,4\n835,1330,4\n836,1332,1\n837,1333,3\n838,1334,4\n839,1335,0\n840,1337,3\n841,1339,1\n842,1340,1\n843,1341,2\n844,1342,2\n845,1343,2\n846,1345,0\n847,1347,4\n848,1350,2\n849,1355,2\n850,1356,0\n851,1357,2\n852,1358,0\n853,1360,4\n854,1361,3\n855,1362,3\n856,1364,3\n857,1365,1\n858,1366,1\n859,1367,1\n860,1368,0\n861,1369,1\n862,1370,4\n863,1371,1\n864,1372,3\n865,1373,4\n866,1374,2\n867,1375,2\n868,1376,1\n869,1378,2\n870,1380,1\n871,1381,1\n872,1384,3\n873,1386,3\n874,1387,1\n875,1388,0\n876,1389,4\n877,1392,3\n878,1395,2\n879,1396,2\n880,1400,0\n881,1401,3\n882,1402,2\n883,1403,1\n884,1404,2\n885,1405,0\n886,1406,2\n887,1407,3\n888,1409,1\n889,1410,3\n890,1411,1\n891,1413,4\n892,1416,2\n893,1417,1\n894,1418,0\n895,1421,0\n896,1422,0\n897,1425,4\n898,1426,1\n899,1428,0\n900,1429,1\n901,1431,2\n902,1433,3\n903,1435,0\n904,1436,3\n905,1437,1\n906,1438,4\n907,1440,2\n908,1441,4\n909,1442,3\n910,1443,4\n911,1445,4\n912,1447,3\n913,1448,4\n914,1450,4\n915,1451,1\n916,1452,1\n917,1453,4\n918,1455,2\n919,1456,4\n920,1457,2\n921,1458,1\n922,1459,1\n923,1460,4\n924,1461,1\n925,1462,4\n926,1463,1\n927,1464,4\n928,1465,1\n929,1467,2\n930,1468,2\n931,1471,2\n932,1478,3\n933,1480,0\n934,1483,4\n935,1485,4\n936,1486,2\n937,1487,0\n938,1488,0\n939,1489,0\n940,1490,4\n941,1491,2\n942,1492,3\n943,1493,2\n944,1494,2\n945,1495,3\n946,1497,2\n947,1499,1\n948,1503,1\n949,1504,0\n950,1506,3\n951,1507,1\n952,1508,2\n953,1509,0\n954,1511,4\n955,1512,1\n956,1513,3\n957,1515,0\n958,1516,4\n959,1517,0\n960,1520,4\n961,1521,1\n962,1522,1\n963,1524,4\n964,1527,4\n965,1530,1\n966,1532,0\n967,1533,0\n968,1534,0\n969,1535,1\n970,1536,1\n971,1537,3\n972,1540,0\n973,1541,2\n974,1543,1\n975,1545,2\n976,1546,1\n977,1547,3\n978,1548,2\n979,1550,1\n980,1551,3\n981,1552,4\n982,1554,2\n983,1555,0\n984,1556,0\n985,1560,4\n986,1561,2\n987,1562,1\n988,1563,0\n989,1564,2\n990,1565,0\n991,1566,2\n992,1568,0\n993,1569,3\n994,1571,3\n995,1572,1\n996,1573,3\n997,1574,1\n998,1576,4\n999,1577,4\n1000,1578,4\n1001,1579,0\n1002,1581,0\n1003,1582,0\n1004,1583,0\n1005,1584,2\n1006,1587,1\n1007,1588,4\n1008,1589,3\n1009,1592,3\n1010,1595,4\n1011,1596,4\n1012,1597,2\n1013,1598,2\n1014,1600,0\n1015,1602,2\n1016,1604,4\n1017,1605,0\n1018,1607,0\n1019,1608,3\n1020,1609,3\n1021,1610,0\n1022,1613,3\n1023,1614,4\n1024,1615,2\n1025,1616,4\n1026,1617,0\n1027,1618,1\n1028,1619,1\n1029,1620,0\n1030,1621,4\n1031,1622,1\n1032,1623,1\n1033,1625,2\n1034,1626,3\n1035,1628,3\n1036,1629,1\n1037,1632,4\n1038,1634,4\n1039,1635,1\n1040,1636,1\n1041,1637,1\n1042,1639,0\n1043,1640,2\n1044,1641,1\n1045,1642,0\n1046,1644,1\n1047,1646,1\n1048,1648,3\n1049,1650,0\n1050,1651,3\n1051,1652,3\n1052,1653,3\n1053,1655,4\n1054,1656,3\n1055,1658,1\n1056,1660,4\n1057,1662,3\n1058,1663,4\n1059,1666,0\n1060,1667,2\n1061,1670,0\n1062,1672,1\n1063,1673,3\n1064,1675,1\n1065,1678,1\n1066,1683,3\n1067,1684,2\n1068,1686,3\n1069,1687,4\n1070,1689,4\n1071,1690,0\n1072,1691,2\n1073,1692,4\n1074,1694,4\n1075,1695,1\n1076,1696,4\n1077,1697,0\n1078,1702,1\n1079,1703,3\n1080,1706,1\n1081,1709,4\n1082,1710,3\n1083,1711,3\n1084,1712,4\n1085,1713,0\n1086,1714,1\n1087,1715,3\n1088,1716,0\n1089,1718,4\n1090,1719,4\n1091,1721,0\n1092,1722,2\n1093,1723,1\n1094,1724,1\n1095,1726,0\n1096,1728,0\n1097,1729,3\n1098,1730,4\n1099,1731,0\n1100,1733,0\n1101,1734,4\n1102,1735,4\n1103,1736,3\n1104,1738,4\n1105,1739,4\n1106,1741,1\n1107,1742,4\n1108,1743,0\n1109,1744,2\n1110,1745,3\n1111,1746,4\n1112,1748,0\n1113,1749,1\n1114,1750,3\n1115,1751,3\n1116,1752,2\n1117,1754,1\n1118,1755,4\n1119,1756,3\n1120,1758,4\n1121,1760,4\n1122,1761,0\n1123,1763,4\n1124,1765,2\n1125,1766,3\n1126,1767,0\n1127,1768,3\n1128,1769,2\n1129,1770,1\n1130,1771,2\n1131,1773,4\n1132,1775,4\n1133,1776,2\n1134,1778,1\n1135,1779,3\n1136,1780,2\n1137,1781,1\n1138,1782,0\n1139,1785,3\n1140,1786,2\n1141,1789,0\n1142,1791,2\n1143,1792,0\n1144,1797,0\n1145,1800,4\n1146,1801,2\n1147,1802,2\n1148,1803,3\n1149,1804,3\n1150,1805,3\n1151,1806,0\n1152,1808,4\n1153,1809,3\n1154,1813,1\n1155,1814,3\n1156,1815,2\n1157,1817,1\n1158,1818,1\n1159,1819,0\n1160,1820,0\n1161,1822,0\n1162,1823,1\n1163,1824,2\n1164,1828,4\n1165,1832,3\n1166,1834,0\n1167,1835,3\n1168,1836,3\n1169,1838,0\n1170,1840,4\n1171,1841,0\n1172,1843,0\n1173,1844,2\n1174,1845,4\n1175,1846,3\n1176,1848,4\n1177,1850,4\n1178,1851,3\n1179,1853,0\n1180,1855,4\n1181,1856,0\n1182,1858,3\n1183,1859,1\n1184,1860,4\n1185,1861,2\n1186,1862,1\n1187,1863,4\n1188,1867,2\n1189,1869,4\n1190,1872,4\n1191,1873,0\n1192,1875,2\n1193,1876,4\n1194,1878,1\n1195,1879,2\n1196,1880,2\n1197,1881,4\n1198,1882,0\n1199,1883,1\n1200,1884,2\n1201,1888,2\n1202,1890,4\n1203,1892,3\n1204,1893,0\n1205,1894,2\n1206,1896,3\n1207,1897,2\n1208,1898,4\n1209,1899,0\n1210,1900,3\n1211,1902,3\n1212,1903,0\n1213,1904,4\n1214,1905,2\n1215,1908,4\n1216,1910,1\n1217,1911,0\n1218,1912,3\n1219,1914,0\n1220,1915,0\n1221,1916,3\n1222,1917,4\n1223,1918,2\n1224,1919,2\n1225,1921,1\n1226,1922,0\n1227,1923,1\n1228,1924,3\n1229,1925,4\n1230,1926,3\n1231,1927,3\n1232,1929,4\n1233,1930,4\n1234,1933,2\n1235,1935,0\n1236,1937,4\n1237,1938,2\n1238,1939,2\n1239,1944,3\n1240,1946,2\n1241,1948,4\n1242,1952,4\n1243,1953,2\n1244,1955,4\n1245,1956,4\n1246,1958,3\n1247,1961,2\n1248,1962,2\n1249,1963,3\n1250,1965,4\n1251,1967,1\n1252,1968,0\n1253,1971,3\n1254,1972,4\n1255,1973,0\n1256,1979,2\n1257,1980,1\n1258,1982,0\n1259,1984,3\n1260,1986,4\n1261,1987,0\n1262,1988,3\n1263,1991,2\n1264,1992,0\n1265,1993,4\n1266,1995,3\n1267,1996,2\n1268,1998,2\n1269,2000,0\n1270,2001,3\n1271,2002,1\n1272,2003,0\n1273,2004,2\n1274,2006,3\n1275,2009,1\n1276,2011,0\n1277,2012,3\n1278,2013,4\n1279,2015,2\n1280,2016,2\n1281,2020,2\n1282,2021,0\n1283,2023,3\n1284,2026,4\n1285,2028,3\n1286,2029,0\n1287,2030,1\n1288,2031,3\n1289,2032,0\n1290,2033,2\n1291,2035,1\n1292,2037,1\n1293,2038,3\n1294,2039,4\n1295,2040,1\n1296,2041,0\n1297,2044,1\n1298,2045,3\n1299,2046,2\n1300,2047,2\n1301,2048,4\n1302,2049,2\n1303,2051,4\n1304,2052,1\n1305,2053,4\n1306,2056,4\n1307,2059,3\n1308,2061,0\n1309,2063,4\n1310,2064,2\n1311,2065,1\n1312,2068,2\n1313,2072,3\n1314,2077,1\n1315,2079,1\n1316,2081,4\n1317,2082,2\n1318,2083,4\n1319,2084,2\n1320,2085,4\n1321,2086,4\n1322,2087,1\n1323,2088,3\n1324,2089,0\n1325,2090,4\n1326,2091,3\n1327,2092,4\n1328,2093,4\n1329,2096,2\n1330,2098,4\n1331,2099,2\n1332,2100,3\n1333,2101,0\n1334,2103,2\n1335,2104,0\n1336,2107,1\n1337,2108,2\n1338,2110,2\n1339,2112,2\n1340,2113,4\n1341,2114,0\n1342,2115,2\n1343,2116,0\n1344,2118,3\n1345,2119,3\n1346,2120,3\n1347,2122,3\n1348,2123,1\n1349,2125,4\n1350,2127,4\n1351,2129,2\n1352,2130,1\n1353,2131,4\n1354,2133,0\n1355,2135,2\n1356,2136,2\n1357,2138,2\n1358,2139,0\n1359,2140,4\n1360,2141,1\n1361,2142,1\n1362,2143,4\n1363,2145,4\n1364,2146,3\n1365,2147,2\n1366,2149,3\n1367,2151,4\n1368,2152,4\n1369,2153,4\n1370,2155,0\n1371,2157,2\n1372,2158,4\n1373,2160,4\n1374,2161,0\n1375,2164,2\n1376,2167,1\n1377,2169,4\n1378,2170,3\n1379,2173,0\n1380,2174,2\n1381,2176,3\n1382,2177,1\n1383,2179,0\n1384,2181,4\n1385,2182,1\n1386,2183,3\n1387,2184,3\n1388,2185,2\n1389,2187,0\n1390,2188,1\n1391,2189,3\n1392,2196,4\n1393,2197,4\n1394,2198,0\n1395,2199,0\n1396,2200,1\n1397,2204,2\n1398,2205,2\n1399,2206,3\n1400,2207,4\n1401,2208,3\n1402,2209,4\n1403,2210,0\n1404,2211,4\n1405,2212,1\n1406,2214,2\n1407,2216,1\n1408,2217,2\n1409,2218,0\n1410,2219,0\n1411,2220,3\n1412,2221,2\n1413,2222,1\n1414,2223,0\n1415,2224,2\n1416,2225,4\n1417,2226,4\n1418,2227,4\n1419,2228,2\n1420,2229,3\n1421,2232,0\n1422,2233,0\n1423,2235,0\n1424,2236,1\n1425,2237,2\n1426,2238,4\n1427,2240,3\n1428,2241,0\n1429,2242,4\n1430,2247,2\n1431,2248,4\n1432,2252,2\n1433,2254,1\n1434,2255,1\n1435,2256,1\n1436,2258,2\n1437,2262,2\n1438,2265,0\n1439,2266,3\n1440,2268,2\n1441,2270,3\n1442,2271,2\n1443,2272,0\n1444,2274,3\n1445,2276,0\n1446,2279,0\n1447,2281,2\n1448,2282,3\n1449,2283,0\n1450,2284,0\n1451,2285,4\n1452,2287,0\n1453,2289,4\n1454,2290,3\n1455,2291,1\n1456,2292,1\n1457,2293,0\n1458,2294,1\n1459,2295,3\n1460,2297,4\n1461,2300,4\n1462,2302,0\n1463,2304,2\n1464,2307,0\n1465,2308,0\n1466,2309,3\n1467,2310,3\n1468,2311,1\n1469,2312,1\n1470,2314,4\n1471,2315,4\n1472,2316,0\n1473,2317,1\n1474,2319,2\n1475,2321,2\n1476,2322,1\n1477,2323,0\n1478,2324,4\n1479,2326,0\n1480,2327,0\n1481,2329,1\n1482,2331,0\n1483,2332,2\n1484,2333,2\n1485,2336,4\n1486,2337,3\n1487,2338,2\n1488,2339,0\n1489,2340,2\n1490,2344,2\n1491,2347,0\n1492,2348,0\n1493,2350,3\n1494,2351,1\n1495,2352,4\n1496,2355,3\n1497,2356,4\n1498,2360,2\n1499,2361,0\n1500,2362,1\n1501,2364,3\n1502,2365,1\n1503,2366,2\n1504,2367,0\n1505,2369,4\n1506,2370,1\n1507,2372,4\n1508,2373,1\n1509,2376,1\n1510,2377,1\n1511,2378,3\n1512,2379,1\n1513,2380,0\n1514,2381,2\n1515,2382,4\n1516,2384,2\n1517,2385,3\n1518,2386,4\n1519,2388,2\n1520,2390,0\n1521,2391,1\n1522,2392,4\n1523,2394,2\n1524,2397,1\n1525,2398,0\n1526,2400,2\n1527,2401,4\n1528,2402,0\n1529,2403,2\n1530,2404,2\n1531,2405,2\n1532,2406,3\n1533,2408,4\n1534,2409,1\n1535,2410,2\n1536,2413,2\n1537,2415,2\n1538,2416,4\n1539,2417,0\n1540,2418,3\n1541,2419,3\n1542,2420,2\n1543,2422,1\n1544,2423,2\n1545,2426,4\n1546,2427,3\n1547,2428,4\n1548,2430,0\n1549,2431,4\n1550,2432,2\n1551,2433,0\n1552,2434,4\n1553,2436,3\n1554,2439,1\n1555,2440,2\n1556,2441,0\n1557,2445,1\n1558,2446,0\n1559,2447,3\n1560,2448,0\n1561,2449,4\n1562,2450,0\n1563,2453,2\n1564,2456,1\n1565,2458,4\n1566,2460,0\n1567,2462,3\n1568,2463,4\n1569,2467,0\n1570,2469,4\n1571,2471,1\n1572,2472,1\n1573,2473,0\n1574,2475,3\n1575,2477,1\n1576,2478,4\n1577,2480,1\n1578,2482,4\n1579,2484,0\n1580,2486,1\n1581,2488,1\n1582,2490,0\n1583,2491,1\n1584,2492,2\n1585,2495,2\n1586,2498,0\n1587,2501,1\n1588,2503,0\n1589,2504,0\n1590,2506,0\n1591,2507,1\n1592,2508,3\n1593,2509,4\n1594,2510,0\n1595,2511,4\n1596,2512,1\n1597,2513,3\n1598,2514,0\n1599,2515,1\n1600,2516,1\n1601,2517,2\n1602,2518,3\n1603,2520,4\n1604,2521,3\n1605,2522,1\n1606,2524,2\n1607,2525,3\n1608,2526,4\n1609,2527,2\n1610,2528,2\n1611,2529,1\n1612,2530,4\n1613,2531,4\n1614,2532,0\n1615,2533,3\n1616,2536,3\n1617,2537,2\n1618,2538,3\n1619,2539,2\n1620,2542,2\n1621,2543,3\n1622,2545,4\n1623,2546,0\n1624,2547,0\n1625,2548,1\n1626,2549,3\n1627,2551,2\n1628,2552,1\n1629,2553,4\n1630,2554,1\n1631,2556,2\n1632,2557,1\n1633,2560,1\n1634,2561,1\n1635,2565,1\n1636,2566,1\n1637,2567,0\n1638,2568,4\n1639,2574,0\n1640,2576,3\n1641,2577,3\n1642,2578,1\n1643,2583,4\n1644,2586,1\n1645,2588,2\n1646,2590,0\n1647,2591,3\n1648,2593,4\n1649,2599,3\n1650,2600,2\n1651,2602,1\n1652,2605,4\n1653,2609,3\n1654,2612,1\n1655,2613,4\n1656,2614,0\n1657,2615,4\n1658,2620,4\n1659,2622,2\n1660,2623,4\n1661,2627,4\n1662,2628,0\n1663,2629,1\n1664,2632,1\n1665,2634,3\n1666,2635,0\n1667,2636,3\n1668,2637,2\n1669,2638,0\n1670,2639,3\n1671,2641,2\n1672,2643,1\n1673,2645,2\n1674,2646,3\n1675,2649,0\n1676,2650,0\n1677,2651,1\n1678,2652,2\n1679,2653,3\n1680,2654,3\n1681,2656,3\n1682,2659,0\n1683,2660,4\n1684,2661,0\n1685,2662,0\n1686,2664,0\n1687,2665,2\n1688,2671,0\n1689,2672,0\n1690,2674,1\n1691,2675,3\n1692,2677,1\n1693,2678,0\n1694,2679,2\n1695,2683,4\n1696,2686,4\n1697,2687,1\n1698,2689,1\n1699,2690,4\n1700,2692,2\n1701,2696,1\n1702,2697,1\n1703,2698,4\n1704,2700,3\n1705,2702,1\n1706,2704,3\n1707,2705,0\n1708,2706,2\n1709,2708,1\n1710,2709,4\n1711,2710,0\n1712,2711,4\n1713,2712,3\n1714,2714,2\n1715,2716,0\n1716,2718,1\n1717,2719,0\n1718,2720,1\n1719,2721,2\n1720,2722,0\n1721,2725,0\n1722,2726,0\n1723,2727,1\n1724,2728,3\n1725,2729,2\n1726,2730,4\n1727,2731,1\n1728,2732,1\n1729,2735,0\n1730,2737,2\n1731,2738,2\n1732,2739,0\n1733,2740,2\n1734,2742,2\n1735,2744,3\n1736,2746,1\n1737,2747,3\n1738,2749,4\n1739,2750,4\n1740,2751,4\n1741,2752,1\n1742,2754,4\n1743,2755,2\n1744,2759,4\n1745,2760,2\n1746,2762,3\n1747,2764,1\n1748,2768,1\n1749,2769,2\n1750,2771,0\n1751,2775,3\n1752,2776,3\n1753,2777,3\n1754,2778,0\n1755,2779,3\n1756,2782,3\n1757,2784,0\n1758,2786,1\n1759,2787,0\n1760,2790,0\n1761,2792,3\n1762,2796,0\n1763,2798,1\n1764,2799,0\n1765,2801,3\n1766,2803,2\n1767,2804,1\n1768,2807,0\n1769,2808,0\n1770,2812,3\n1771,2813,3\n1772,2814,1\n1773,2815,3\n1774,2817,1\n1775,2818,0\n1776,2819,0\n1777,2822,4\n1778,2823,4\n1779,2824,0\n1780,2827,2\n1781,2830,3\n1782,2831,4\n1783,2834,2\n1784,2835,3\n1785,2836,4\n1786,2838,1\n1787,2839,0\n1788,2840,0\n1789,2841,3\n1790,2843,0\n1791,2845,3\n1792,2846,3\n1793,2847,2\n1794,2848,4\n1795,2851,0\n1796,2853,2\n1797,2854,3\n1798,2856,2\n1799,2857,2\n1800,2858,3\n1801,2859,2\n1802,2860,0\n1803,2861,2\n1804,2863,3\n1805,2864,0\n1806,2866,1\n1807,2867,0\n1808,2869,2\n1809,2870,0\n1810,2873,3\n1811,2874,3\n1812,2875,1\n1813,2876,0\n1814,2878,2\n1815,2880,1\n1816,2881,0\n1817,2883,3\n1818,2884,4\n1819,2887,4\n1820,2888,4\n1821,2890,3\n1822,2891,1\n1823,2892,1\n1824,2893,1\n1825,2894,4\n1826,2896,3\n1827,2898,1\n1828,2899,4\n1829,2900,1\n1830,2901,3\n1831,2902,2\n1832,2908,0\n1833,2910,2\n1834,2911,3\n1835,2913,1\n1836,2914,4\n1837,2915,3\n1838,2916,3\n1839,2918,3\n1840,2919,0\n1841,2921,1\n1842,2923,4\n1843,2925,4\n1844,2926,3\n1845,2927,4\n1846,2928,3\n1847,2930,3\n1848,2932,1\n1849,2933,2\n1850,2934,0\n1851,2937,4\n1852,2938,0\n1853,2940,3\n1854,2945,2\n1855,2947,2\n1856,2948,2\n1857,2952,3\n1858,2953,4\n1859,2954,0\n1860,2955,3\n1861,2956,3\n1862,2959,4\n1863,2960,2\n1864,2962,4\n1865,2963,0\n1866,2964,4\n1867,2965,4\n1868,2966,0\n1869,2970,2\n1870,2971,4\n1871,2972,0\n1872,2973,3\n1873,2974,3\n1874,2975,4\n1875,2978,4\n1876,2979,1\n1877,2980,0\n1878,2981,1\n1879,2982,1\n1880,2984,3\n1881,2988,4\n1882,2992,3\n1883,2993,3\n1884,2995,1\n1885,2999,3\n1886,3001,4\n1887,3002,0\n1888,3005,2\n1889,3009,3\n1890,3010,4\n1891,3011,3\n1892,3012,4\n1893,3014,1\n1894,3016,2\n1895,3017,2\n1896,3018,0\n1897,3019,3\n1898,3020,4\n1899,3023,1\n1900,3027,3\n1901,3029,4\n1902,3030,2\n1903,3035,2\n1904,3036,4\n1905,3037,4\n1906,3038,0\n1907,3039,0\n1908,3040,1\n1909,3041,0\n1910,3042,2\n1911,3043,4\n1912,3044,3\n1913,3045,2\n1914,3046,1\n1915,3047,3\n1916,3048,0\n1917,3051,1\n1918,3054,4\n1919,3056,4\n1920,3057,1\n1921,3058,2\n1922,3059,3\n1923,3063,1\n1924,3066,2\n1925,3071,0\n1926,3072,1\n1927,3073,2\n1928,3074,0\n1929,3076,1\n1930,3077,0\n1931,3078,0\n1932,3079,2\n1933,3081,3\n1934,3083,4\n1935,3086,3\n1936,3088,4\n1937,3090,1\n1938,3091,4\n1939,3092,0\n1940,3093,3\n1941,3095,4\n1942,3096,4\n1943,3098,0\n1944,3099,3\n1945,3100,1\n1946,3103,4\n1947,3105,0\n1948,3106,3\n1949,3108,1\n1950,3109,2\n1951,3110,2\n1952,3111,4\n1953,3112,1\n1954,3113,1\n1955,3114,2\n1956,3117,4\n1957,3118,0\n1958,3119,0\n1959,3122,3\n1960,3124,3\n1961,3125,2\n1962,3126,3\n1963,3127,4\n1964,3128,4\n1965,3129,0\n1966,3131,0\n1967,3133,1\n1968,3134,2\n1969,3137,3\n1970,3138,4\n1971,3139,1\n1972,3142,3\n1973,3143,1\n1974,3146,1\n1975,3147,3\n1976,3148,3\n1977,3151,3\n1978,3152,0\n1979,3153,3\n1980,3154,4\n1981,3158,4\n1982,3159,4\n1983,3160,2\n1984,3161,1\n1985,3163,0\n1986,3164,2\n1987,3165,1\n1988,3168,3\n1989,3169,3\n1990,3172,2\n1991,3179,1\n1992,3180,0\n1993,3185,4\n1994,3186,3\n1995,3187,0\n1996,3189,2\n1997,3190,0\n1998,3191,3\n1999,3192,1\n2000,3193,4\n2001,3195,2\n2002,3196,3\n2003,3197,4\n2004,3198,2\n2005,3200,1\n2006,3201,3\n2007,3202,1\n2008,3203,1\n2009,3204,1\n2010,3206,3\n2011,3208,4\n2012,3209,2\n2013,3211,0\n2014,3212,4\n2015,3213,1\n2016,3216,3\n2017,3217,4\n2018,3218,2\n2019,3219,3\n2020,3221,3\n2021,3223,4\n2022,3225,3\n2023,3226,0\n2024,3227,0\n2025,3230,0\n2026,3231,2\n2027,3232,0\n2028,3234,1\n2029,3235,2\n2030,3236,3\n2031,3237,2\n2032,3239,0\n2033,3240,1\n2034,3241,1\n2035,3243,4\n2036,3244,0\n2037,3245,2\n2038,3246,3\n2039,3247,0\n2040,3249,2\n2041,3251,0\n2042,3254,0\n2043,3256,3\n2044,3258,1\n2045,3259,0\n2046,3260,4\n2047,3264,2\n2048,3266,0\n2049,3267,0\n2050,3269,2\n2051,3271,4\n2052,3272,4\n2053,3273,3\n2054,3274,3\n2055,3276,0\n2056,3278,1\n2057,3279,0\n2058,3280,3\n2059,3281,0\n2060,3282,0\n2061,3284,1\n2062,3285,4\n2063,3286,3\n2064,3289,3\n2065,3293,0\n2066,3294,2\n2067,3295,4\n2068,3297,4\n2069,3298,0\n2070,3299,2\n2071,3301,2\n2072,3302,3\n2073,3303,3\n2074,3304,1\n2075,3306,4\n2076,3307,3\n2077,3308,1\n2078,3309,1\n2079,3311,1\n2080,3312,0\n2081,3314,0\n2082,3315,2\n2083,3317,4\n2084,3318,4\n2085,3321,0\n2086,3323,2\n2087,3325,3\n2088,3326,0\n2089,3327,1\n2090,3328,2\n2091,3332,2\n2092,3333,4\n2093,3334,0\n2094,3335,3\n2095,3337,4\n2096,3338,3\n2097,3339,0\n2098,3340,2\n2099,3341,4\n2100,3342,1\n2101,3344,0\n2102,3346,0\n2103,3347,1\n2104,3349,3\n2105,3350,1\n2106,3351,2\n2107,3353,1\n2108,3356,2\n2109,3357,0\n2110,3358,2\n2111,3359,1\n2112,3361,1\n2113,3362,4\n2114,3367,3\n2115,3368,2\n2116,3369,1\n2117,3371,2\n2118,3373,1\n2119,3374,2\n2120,3376,4\n2121,3377,3\n2122,3379,1\n2123,3380,1\n2124,3382,0\n2125,3384,3\n2126,3385,3\n2127,3387,3\n2128,3388,3\n2129,3389,4\n2130,3393,3\n2131,3394,3\n2132,3396,2\n2133,3397,2\n2134,3400,3\n2135,3401,0\n2136,3402,1\n2137,3404,4\n2138,3406,0\n2139,3407,1\n2140,3408,2\n2141,3411,3\n2142,3413,1\n2143,3415,4\n2144,3416,0\n2145,3417,3\n2146,3418,2\n2147,3419,3\n2148,3423,1\n2149,3425,2\n2150,3427,3\n2151,3429,0\n2152,3430,0\n2153,3431,3\n2154,3433,3\n2155,3435,3\n2156,3436,2\n2157,3438,4\n2158,3441,0\n2159,3443,4\n2160,3444,4\n2161,3446,2\n2162,3447,0\n2163,3449,4\n2164,3452,0\n2165,3453,3\n2166,3454,1\n2167,3455,0\n2168,3457,1\n2169,3458,2\n2170,3460,0\n2171,3462,3\n2172,3464,3\n2173,3465,0\n2174,3466,3\n2175,3467,4\n2176,3468,1\n2177,3469,1\n2178,3470,0\n2179,3471,1\n2180,3473,4\n2181,3474,4\n2182,3475,4\n2183,3476,0\n2184,3477,1\n2185,3479,2\n2186,3481,1\n2187,3482,4\n2188,3485,4\n2189,3486,4\n2190,3487,4\n2191,3489,4\n2192,3490,0\n2193,3492,4\n2194,3495,4\n2195,3498,2\n2196,3500,4\n2197,3501,2\n2198,3505,0\n2199,3506,1\n2200,3507,4\n2201,3508,3\n2202,3509,2\n2203,3510,0\n2204,3511,3\n2205,3513,4\n2206,3514,3\n2207,3515,4\n2208,3516,2\n2209,3518,4\n2210,3519,1\n2211,3521,1\n2212,3522,3\n2213,3523,0\n2214,3528,1\n2215,3529,4\n2216,3530,3\n2217,3531,1\n2218,3537,1\n2219,3538,3\n2220,3539,1\n2221,3540,0\n2222,3541,4\n2223,3546,2\n2224,3547,2\n2225,3549,4\n2226,3550,2\n2227,3551,3\n2228,3552,0\n2229,3553,2\n2230,3556,0\n2231,3557,3\n2232,3559,4\n2233,3562,4\n2234,3563,1\n2235,3565,0\n2236,3566,1\n2237,3567,2\n2238,3568,1\n2239,3569,4\n2240,3570,4\n2241,3571,0\n2242,3573,3\n2243,3575,1\n2244,3578,3\n2245,3580,0\n2246,3581,0\n2247,3582,0\n2248,3584,3\n2249,3586,4\n2250,3587,0\n2251,3588,3\n2252,3590,0\n2253,3591,1\n2254,3593,1\n2255,3595,1\n2256,3597,1\n2257,3598,3\n2258,3600,0\n2259,3601,0\n2260,3602,1\n2261,3604,1\n2262,3605,0\n2263,3607,0\n2264,3608,3\n2265,3609,1\n2266,3611,3\n2267,3612,3\n2268,3615,4\n2269,3616,3\n2270,3617,1\n2271,3619,1\n2272,3620,4\n2273,3622,0\n2274,3623,0\n2275,3624,4\n2276,3625,2\n2277,3627,2\n2278,3630,3\n2279,3631,0\n2280,3634,2\n2281,3636,1\n2282,3637,3\n2283,3639,4\n2284,3640,1\n2285,3641,0\n2286,3643,4\n2287,3644,2\n2288,3646,1\n2289,3647,3\n2290,3649,1\n2291,3651,3\n2292,3652,1\n2293,3653,3\n2294,3657,4\n2295,3659,2\n2296,3660,1\n2297,3661,2\n2298,3662,4\n2299,3663,4\n2300,3664,3\n2301,3665,1\n2302,3666,1\n2303,3667,4\n2304,3670,4\n2305,3674,1\n2306,3677,4\n2307,3679,0\n2308,3680,0\n2309,3683,0\n2310,3686,0\n2311,3687,3\n2312,3688,1\n2313,3690,2\n2314,3691,4\n2315,3692,0\n2316,3694,0\n2317,3695,0\n2318,3697,0\n2319,3701,0\n2320,3702,4\n2321,3703,3\n2322,3704,0\n2323,3705,1\n2324,3706,0\n2325,3707,0\n2326,3709,4\n2327,3710,2\n2328,3711,2\n2329,3712,0\n2330,3714,4\n2331,3715,4\n2332,3716,0\n2333,3717,1\n2334,3719,1\n2335,3722,0\n2336,3724,2\n2337,3725,4\n2338,3727,1\n2339,3728,4\n2340,3729,2\n2341,3731,1\n2342,3732,2\n2343,3733,2\n2344,3735,1\n2345,3739,2\n2346,3740,3\n2347,3742,4\n2348,3744,2\n2349,3746,0\n2350,3747,1\n2351,3748,4\n2352,3749,2\n2353,3750,2\n2354,3752,1\n2355,3753,4\n2356,3756,0\n2357,3759,3\n2358,3760,2\n2359,3761,3\n2360,3762,3\n2361,3764,1\n2362,3766,2\n2363,3768,4\n2364,3769,3\n2365,3771,2\n2366,3772,3\n2367,3773,3\n2368,3774,4\n2369,3776,0\n2370,3779,1\n2371,3781,4\n2372,3782,4\n2373,3783,4\n2374,3784,2\n2375,3786,0\n2376,3788,0\n2377,3789,4\n2378,3790,2\n2379,3791,3\n2380,3792,1\n2381,3795,2\n2382,3797,2\n2383,3802,0\n2384,3804,4\n2385,3805,4\n2386,3806,2\n2387,3807,4\n2388,3811,4\n2389,3812,4\n2390,3815,4\n2391,3816,4\n2392,3817,1\n2393,3820,4\n2394,3821,0\n2395,3824,3\n2396,3825,3\n2397,3826,3\n2398,3828,0\n2399,3829,0\n2400,3831,4\n2401,3832,3\n2402,3834,3\n2403,3836,1\n2404,3837,0\n2405,3840,4\n2406,3842,0\n2407,3843,1\n2408,3844,3\n2409,3845,1\n2410,3846,4\n2411,3847,0\n2412,3849,0\n2413,3851,4\n2414,3852,1\n2415,3853,2\n2416,3855,3\n2417,3856,4\n2418,3857,2\n2419,3858,1\n2420,3859,2\n2421,3861,4\n2422,3862,4\n2423,3864,0\n2424,3865,4\n2425,3866,1\n2426,3867,1\n2427,3868,0\n2428,3873,0\n2429,3874,3\n2430,3875,2\n2431,3878,4\n2432,3880,1\n2433,3882,4\n2434,3883,2\n2435,3884,2\n2436,3886,3\n2437,3889,4\n2438,3890,4\n2439,3892,0\n2440,3895,3\n2441,3896,3\n2442,3899,4\n2443,3900,3\n2444,3902,1\n2445,3903,2\n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n9052,2\n9053,2\n9054,4\n9055,4\n9056,2\n9057,3\n9058,2\n9059,3\n9060,0\n9062,2\n9063,0\n9064,1\n9066,2\n9068,1\n9071,2\n9072,4\n9073,4\n9074,4\n9077,0\n9079,3\n9081,2\n9082,2\n9083,4\n9084,0\n9085,3\n9086,2\n9087,1\n9088,4\n9089,1\n9090,3\n9091,1\n9092,2\n9094,4\n9095,2\n9096,2\n9097,0\n9099,4\n9100,2\n9101,3\n9106,2\n9108,2\n9112,0\n9115,4\n9121,1\n9124,4\n9125,2\n9126,3\n9127,4\n9128,4\n9129,2\n9131,0\n9133,0\n9134,1\n9135,0\n9137,0\n9138,4\n9139,3\n9145,4\n9146,4\n9147,0\n9148,1\n9150,4\n9151,4\n9152,2\n9153,1\n9154,4\n9155,2\n9156,2\n9159,2\n9161,0\n9163,0\n9164,4\n9166,2\n9167,0\n9169,3\n9170,4\n9171,0\n9173,2\n9175,3\n9176,4\n9177,3\n9179,4\n9180,1\n9181,0\n9182,1\n9183,1\n9185,0\n9187,4\n9188,4\n9189,4\n9190,2\n9192,2\n9193,4\n9197,3\n9199,1\n9200,3\n9201,1\n9202,1\n9203,0\n9204,2\n9205,4\n9206,3\n9208,1\n9209,0\n9212,2\n9216,0\n9218,2\n9219,0\n9220,0\n9224,2\n9226,3\n9229,3\n9230,1\n9231,3\n9232,4\n9233,4\n9234,3\n9235,3\n9236,3\n9239,2\n9244,4\n9246,3\n9247,3\n9248,2\n9249,3\n9250,1\n9251,4\n9252,0\n9253,1\n9254,1\n9255,3\n9258,3\n9261,0\n9262,0\n9264,3\n9265,4\n9266,3\n9267,2\n9268,0\n9269,2\n9270,2\n9272,1\n9273,1\n9274,2\n9276,1\n9277,3\n9278,1\n9279,4\n9280,3\n9281,4\n9282,3\n9283,1\n9284,1\n9285,4\n9287,4\n9289,1\n9290,0\n9295,3\n9296,2\n9299,4\n9300,1\n9301,3\n9306,0\n9309,0\n9310,1\n9311,1\n9312,0\n9313,1\n9316,4\n9317,3\n9318,3\n9319,2\n9320,3\n9321,2\n9322,4\n9327,0\n9329,4\n9330,3\n9331,4\n9332,1\n9333,4\n9334,2\n9335,2\n9336,0\n9341,4\n9342,4\n9343,1\n9345,1\n9346,2\n9347,0\n9348,2\n9349,2\n9351,2\n9357,0\n9358,0\n9359,0\n9360,4\n9362,0\n9363,3\n9366,4\n9367,4\n9368,3\n9369,2\n9370,3\n9371,0\n9373,1\n9374,4\n9375,1\n9377,4\n9378,4\n9379,2\n9380,3\n9382,2\n9383,4\n9386,1\n9387,0\n9390,4\n9393,0\n9396,1\n9399,4\n9401,1\n9402,2\n9403,3\n9404,1\n9405,3\n9406,0\n9407,0\n9411,4\n9412,0\n9415,2\n9416,4\n9417,1\n9418,1\n9420,0\n9421,0\n9423,3\n9424,1\n9425,0\n9427,1\n9428,1\n9430,2\n9432,2\n9433,4\n9435,1\n9436,4\n9437,4\n9442,4\n9444,3\n9445,0\n9446,2\n9449,2\n9450,0\n9451,4\n9452,0\n9456,4\n9458,1\n9460,4\n9464,2\n9465,4\n9467,2\n9470,0\n9471,4\n9473,0\n9474,2\n9475,2\n9477,1\n9479,1\n9480,3\n9481,0\n9482,3\n9484,0\n9486,2\n9487,2\n9489,4\n9490,0\n9491,0\n9492,0\n9494,4\n9495,4\n9498,0\n9499,2\n9501,1\n9505,2\n9506,3\n9507,0\n9509,2\n9511,0\n9512,0\n9514,3\n9521,1\n9522,0\n9524,1\n9525,3\n9526,2\n9527,0\n9528,4\n9529,0\n9530,4\n9531,3\n9537,3\n9538,1\n9539,4\n9542,2\n9546,3\n9549,0\n9550,2\n9551,3\n9552,0\n9554,0\n9555,0\n9556,2\n9557,4\n9559,2\n9561,0\n9562,4\n9563,0\n9564,1\n9565,3\n9566,2\n9572,0\n9574,2\n9576,0\n9577,3\n9579,4\n9580,3\n9582,0\n9583,4\n9584,3\n9585,4\n9586,2\n9587,0\n9588,0\n9589,0\n9592,0\n9594,4\n9596,4\n9598,3\n9599,2\n9603,4\n9606,0\n9607,4\n9608,1\n9609,2\n9611,2\n9612,1\n9613,0\n9614,1\n9615,2\n9616,0\n9618,0\n9619,4\n9620,3\n9622,2\n9624,1\n9626,0\n9627,4\n9631,2\n9634,4\n9635,0\n9636,2\n9638,4\n9641,4\n9642,1\n9643,2\n9645,1\n9646,2\n9647,1\n" }, { "path": "step3_model1_bert_code/data/make_folds.py", "content": "import pandas as pd\nimport functools\nimport operator\nfrom tqdm import tqdm\nfrom sklearn.preprocessing import LabelEncoder\nfrom skmultilearn.model_selection import IterativeStratification\nfrom multiprocessing import Pool, cpu_count\n\nfrom utils import transform_target_columns_to_ordinals\n\n\ndef rareness_split(train_df, least_representative_cols=(\"question_type_spelling\",)):\n rarity_mask = []\n for col in least_representative_cols:\n most_common_value = (\n train_df[col].value_counts().sort_values(ascending=False).index[0]\n )\n rarity_mask.append(train_df[col] != most_common_value)\n rarity_mask = functools.reduce(operator.or_, rarity_mask)\n\n rare_samples = train_df[rarity_mask]\n common_samples = train_df[~rarity_mask]\n\n return common_samples, rare_samples\n\n\ndef aggregate_ordinals(group, agg_func=pd.Series.mode):\n group_id, group_labels = group\n group_labels.drop(labels=[\"group_id\"], axis=1, inplace=True)\n\n agg_group_labels = group_labels.apply(agg_func, axis=0).iloc[0]\n agg_group_labels = agg_group_labels.rename(group_id)\n return agg_group_labels\n\n\ndef stratified_fold_split_for_common(\n common_samples,\n n_splits=5,\n interaction_order=1,\n random_state=42,\n agg_func=pd.Series.mode,\n):\n body_encoder = LabelEncoder()\n common_samples[\"group_id\"] = body_encoder.fit_transform(\n common_samples[\"question_body\"].astype(str)\n )\n\n common_ordinals = transform_target_columns_to_ordinals(common_samples)\n common_ordinals[\"group_id\"] = common_samples[\"group_id\"]\n\n common_groups = common_ordinals.groupby([\"group_id\"])\n with Pool(cpu_count()) as pool:\n aggregated_common_ordinals = list(\n tqdm(\n pool.imap(\n functools.partial(aggregate_ordinals, agg_func=agg_func),\n common_groups,\n ),\n total=len(common_groups),\n desc=\"Aggregate ordinals over groups\",\n )\n )\n aggregated_common_ordinals = pd.concat(\n aggregated_common_ordinals, axis=1\n ).transpose()\n aggregated_common_ordinals.index.rename(\"group_id\", inplace=True)\n\n k_fold = IterativeStratification(\n n_splits=n_splits, order=interaction_order, random_state=random_state\n )\n folds_common = []\n for _, fold_groups in k_fold.split(\n aggregated_common_ordinals, aggregated_common_ordinals\n ):\n fold_mask = common_ordinals[\"group_id\"].isin(fold_groups)\n fold_ids = common_ordinals.index.values[fold_mask]\n folds_common.append(fold_ids)\n\n return folds_common\n\n\ndef stratified_fold_split_for_rare(\n rare_samples,\n n_splits=5,\n interaction_order=1,\n random_state=42,\n least_representative_cols=(\"question_type_spelling\",),\n):\n rare_ordinals = transform_target_columns_to_ordinals(\n rare_samples[list(least_representative_cols)]\n )\n\n k_fold = IterativeStratification(\n n_splits=n_splits, order=interaction_order, random_state=random_state\n )\n folds_rare = []\n for _, fold_ids in k_fold.split(rare_ordinals, rare_ordinals):\n folds_rare.append(rare_samples.index.values[fold_ids])\n return folds_rare\n" }, { "path": "step3_model1_bert_code/data/sampler.py", "content": "from torch.utils.data import Sampler\nimport torch\n\n\nclass UniformRandomSampler(Sampler):\n def __init__(self, data_source, num_samples: int = None):\n self.data_source = data_source\n self._num_samples = num_samples\n self._state = torch.randperm(len(data_source)).tolist()\n\n @property\n def num_samples(self):\n if self._num_samples is None:\n return len(self.data_source)\n return self._num_samples\n\n def __iter__(self):\n n = len(self.data_source)\n if len(self._state) < self.num_samples + 1:\n self._state += torch.randperm(n).tolist()\n output, self._state = (\n self._state[: self.num_samples],\n self._state[self.num_samples :],\n )\n return iter(output)\n\n def __len__(self):\n return self.num_samples\n" }, { "path": "step3_model1_bert_code/metrics.py", "content": "import numpy as np\nimport pandas as pd\nfrom poutyne.framework.callbacks import Callback\nfrom poutyne.framework.metrics import EpochMetric\nfrom poutyne.utils import torch_to_numpy\nfrom scipy.stats import spearmanr\n\n\ndef spearman_metric(y_true, y_pred, return_scores=False, colnames=None):\n corr = [\n spearmanr(pred_col, target_col).correlation\n for pred_col, target_col in zip(y_pred.T, y_true.T)\n ]\n if colnames is not None:\n return pd.Series(corr, index=colnames)\n if return_scores:\n return corr\n else:\n return np.nanmean(corr)\n\n\nclass Spearman(EpochMetric):\n class SpearmanCallback(Callback):\n def __init__(self):\n self.metric_values = dict()\n\n def on_epoch_end(self, epoch, logs):\n logs.update(self.metric_values)\n\n def __init__(self, colnames=None):\n super(Spearman, self).__init__()\n self.__name__ = \"spearman\"\n self.preds, self.targets = [], []\n\n self.colnames = colnames\n self.callback = self.SpearmanCallback()\n\n def forward(self, y_pred, y_true):\n self.preds.append(torch_to_numpy(y_pred))\n self.targets.append(torch_to_numpy(y_true))\n\n def get_metric(self):\n corr = spearman_metric(\n np.vstack(self.targets), np.vstack(self.preds), return_scores=True\n )\n\n if self.colnames is not None:\n self.callback.metric_values = dict(zip(self.colnames, corr))\n\n self.preds, self.targets = [], []\n return np.mean(corr)\n" }, { "path": "step3_model1_bert_code/models.py", "content": "import torch\nimport transformers\nfrom bert import BertPreTrainedModel, BertModel\nfrom torch import nn\nfrom transformers import RobertaModel\n\n\nclass BertForQuestRegression(BertPreTrainedModel):\n def __init__(self, config, head_dropout=None):\n super(BertForQuestRegression, self).__init__(config)\n self.config = config\n self.num_labels = config.num_labels\n if head_dropout is None:\n head_dropout = config.hidden_dropout_prob\n\n self.bert = BertModel(config)\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(head_dropout)\n self.classifier = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, self.config.num_labels)\n\n self.init_weights()\n\n def forward(\n self,\n input_ids,\n attention_mask=None,\n token_type_ids=None,\n position_ids=None,\n head_mask=None,\n ):\n outputs = self.bert(\n input_ids,\n position_ids=position_ids,\n token_type_ids=token_type_ids,\n attention_mask=attention_mask,\n head_mask=head_mask,\n )\n sequence_output = outputs[0]\n pooled_output = torch.mean(sequence_output, dim=1)\n\n pooled_output = self.dropout(pooled_output)\n logits = self.classifier(pooled_output)\n\n return logits\n\n def load(self, checkpoint, strict=True, **cfg_args):\n self.config.__dict__.update(cfg_args)\n self.__init__(self.config)\n\n state_dict = torch.load(checkpoint)\n return self.load_state_dict(state_dict, strict=strict)\n\n\nclass RobertaForQuestRegression(BertPreTrainedModel):\n def __init__(self, config):\n super(RobertaForQuestRegression, self).__init__(config)\n self.config = config\n self.num_labels = config.num_labels\n\n self.roberta = RobertaModel(config)\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(config.hidden_dropout_prob)\n self.classifier = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, self.config.num_labels)\n\n def forward(\n self,\n input_ids,\n attention_mask=None,\n token_type_ids=None,\n position_ids=None,\n head_mask=None,\n ):\n outputs = self.roberta(\n input_ids,\n position_ids=position_ids,\n token_type_ids=token_type_ids,\n attention_mask=attention_mask,\n head_mask=head_mask,\n )\n sequence_output = outputs[0]\n pooled_output = torch.mean(sequence_output, dim=1)\n\n pooled_output = self.dropout(pooled_output)\n logits = self.classifier(pooled_output)\n\n return logits\n\n def load(self, checkpoint, strict=True, **cfg_args):\n self.config.__dict__.update(cfg_args)\n self.__init__(self.config)\n\n state_dict = torch.load(checkpoint)\n return self.load_state_dict(state_dict, strict=strict)\n\n\nclass CustomBert(transformers.BertPreTrainedModel):\n def __init__(self, config):\n config.output_hidden_states = True\n super(CustomBert, self).__init__(config)\n self.num_labels = config.num_labels\n self.bert = BertModel(config)\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(p=0.2)\n self.high_dropout = nn.Dropout(p=0.5)\n\n n_weights = config.num_hidden_layers + 1\n weights_init = torch.zeros(n_weights).float()\n weights_init.data[:-1] = -3\n self.layer_weights = torch.nn.Parameter(weights_init)\n\n self.classifier = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, self.config.num_labels)\n\n self.init_weights()\n\n def forward(\n self,\n input_ids=None,\n attention_mask=None,\n token_type_ids=None,\n position_ids=None,\n head_mask=None,\n inputs_embeds=None,\n ):\n outputs = self.bert(\n input_ids,\n attention_mask=attention_mask,\n token_type_ids=token_type_ids,\n position_ids=position_ids,\n )\n\n hidden_layers = outputs[2]\n\n cls_outputs = torch.stack(\n [self.dropout(layer[:, 0, :]) for layer in hidden_layers], dim=2\n )\n cls_output = (torch.softmax(self.layer_weights, dim=0) * cls_outputs).sum(-1)\n\n # multisample dropout (wut): https://arxiv.org/abs/1905.09788\n logits = torch.mean(\n torch.stack(\n [self.classifier(self.high_dropout(cls_output)) for _ in range(5)],\n dim=0,\n ),\n dim=0,\n )\n\n return logits\n\n\ndef get_optimizer(model, learning_rate, backbone_prefix=\"bert\"):\n params = list(model.named_parameters())\n\n def is_backbone(name):\n return backbone_prefix in name\n\n optimizer_grouped_parameters = [\n {\"params\": [p for n, p in params if is_backbone(n)], \"lr\": learning_rate},\n {\n \"params\": [p for n, p in params if not is_backbone(n)],\n \"lr\": learning_rate * 500,\n },\n ]\n\n optimizer = torch.optim.AdamW(\n optimizer_grouped_parameters, lr=learning_rate, weight_decay=0\n )\n\n return optimizer\n" }, { "path": "step3_model1_bert_code/schedule.py", "content": "import torch\r\nfrom poutyne.framework.callbacks import Callback\r\nfrom pytorch_transformers import optimization\r\n\r\n\r\nclass _PyTorchLRSchedulerWrapper(Callback):\r\n def __init__(self, torch_lr_scheduler, *args, **kwargs):\r\n super().__init__()\r\n self.torch_lr_scheduler = torch_lr_scheduler\r\n self.args = args\r\n self.kwargs = kwargs\r\n self.scheduler = None\r\n self.loaded_state = None\r\n\r\n def on_train_begin(self, logs):\r\n optimizer = self.model.optimizer\r\n self.scheduler = self.torch_lr_scheduler(optimizer, *self.args, **self.kwargs)\r\n\r\n # Load state if the scheduler was not initialized when the user asked\r\n # to load its state\r\n if self.loaded_state is not None:\r\n self.scheduler.load_state_dict(self.loaded_state)\r\n self.loaded_state = None\r\n\r\n def on_batch_end(self, batch, logs):\r\n self.scheduler.step()\r\n\r\n def load_state(self, f):\r\n if self.scheduler is not None:\r\n self.scheduler.load_state_dict(torch.load(f, map_location=\"cpu\"))\r\n else:\r\n self.loaded_state = torch.load(f, map_location=\"cpu\")\r\n\r\n def save_state(self, f):\r\n torch.save(self.scheduler.state_dict(), f)\r\n\r\n\r\nclass _TotalStepWrapper(_PyTorchLRSchedulerWrapper):\r\n def on_train_begin(self, logs):\r\n if \"t_total\" not in self.kwargs or self.kwargs[\"t_total\"] is None:\r\n t_total = self.params[\"steps\"] * self.params[\"epochs\"]\r\n if self.params[\"accumulation_steps\"] is not None:\r\n t_total = t_total // self.params[\"accumulation_steps\"]\r\n else:\r\n t_total = self.kwargs[\"t_total\"]\r\n if \"t_total\" in self.kwargs:\r\n del self.kwargs[\"t_total\"]\r\n optimizer = self.model.optimizer\r\n self.scheduler = self.torch_lr_scheduler(\r\n optimizer, *self.args, t_total=t_total, **self.kwargs\r\n )\r\n\r\n # Load state if the scheduler was not initialized when the user asked\r\n # to load its state\r\n if self.loaded_state is not None:\r\n self.scheduler.load_state_dict(self.loaded_state)\r\n self.loaded_state = None\r\n\r\n\r\nclass ConstantLRSchedule(_PyTorchLRSchedulerWrapper):\r\n \"\"\" Constant learning rate schedule.\r\n \"\"\"\r\n\r\n def __init__(self, last_epoch=-1):\r\n super().__init__(optimization.ConstantLRSchedule, last_epoch=last_epoch)\r\n\r\n\r\nclass WarmupConstantSchedule(_PyTorchLRSchedulerWrapper):\r\n \"\"\" Linear warmup and then constant.\r\n Linearly increases learning rate schedule from 0 to 1 over `warmup_steps` training steps.\r\n Keeps learning rate schedule equal to 1. after warmup_steps.\r\n \"\"\"\r\n\r\n def __init__(self, warmup_steps, last_epoch=-1):\r\n super().__init__(\r\n optimization.WarmupConstantSchedule, warmup_steps, last_epoch=last_epoch\r\n )\r\n\r\n\r\nclass WarmupLinearSchedule(_TotalStepWrapper):\r\n \"\"\" Linear warmup and then linear decay.\r\n Linearly increases learning rate from 0 to 1 over `warmup_steps` training steps.\r\n Linearly decreases learning rate from 1. to 0. over remaining `t_total - warmup_steps` steps.\r\n \"\"\"\r\n\r\n def __init__(self, warmup_steps, t_total=None, last_epoch=-1):\r\n super().__init__(\r\n optimization.WarmupLinearSchedule,\r\n warmup_steps,\r\n t_total=t_total,\r\n last_epoch=last_epoch,\r\n )\r\n\r\n\r\nclass WarmupCosineSchedule(_TotalStepWrapper):\r\n \"\"\" Linear warmup and then cosine decay.\r\n Linearly increases learning rate from 0 to 1 over `warmup_steps` training steps.\r\n Decreases learning rate from 1. to 0. over remaining `t_total - warmup_steps` steps following a cosine curve.\r\n If `cycles` (default=0.5) is different from default, learning rate follows cosine function after warmup.\r\n \"\"\"\r\n\r\n def __init__(self, warmup_steps, t_total=None, cycles=0.5, last_epoch=-1):\r\n super().__init__(\r\n optimization.WarmupCosineSchedule,\r\n warmup_steps,\r\n t_total=t_total,\r\n cycles=cycles,\r\n last_epoch=last_epoch,\r\n )\r\n\r\n\r\nclass WarmupCosineWithHardRestartsSchedule(_TotalStepWrapper):\r\n \"\"\" Linear warmup and then cosine cycles with hard restarts.\r\n Linearly increases learning rate from 0 to 1 over `warmup_steps` training steps.\r\n If `cycles` (default=1.) is different from default, learning rate follows `cycles` times a cosine decaying\r\n learning rate (with hard restarts).\r\n \"\"\"\r\n\r\n def __init__(self, warmup_steps, t_total=None, cycles=1.0, last_epoch=-1):\r\n super().__init__(\r\n optimization.WarmupCosineWithHardRestartsSchedule,\r\n warmup_steps,\r\n t_total=t_total,\r\n cycles=cycles,\r\n last_epoch=last_epoch,\r\n )\r\n" }, { "path": "step3_model1_bert_code/train.py", "content": "import os\nimport sys\nfrom pathlib import Path\n\nimport pandas as pd\nimport torch\nfrom callbacks import CSVParamLogger\nfrom data import QuestDataset, ALL_TARGETS\nfrom metrics import Spearman\nfrom models import BertForQuestRegression\nfrom poutyne.framework import Model, ModelCheckpoint\nfrom torch.optim import Adam\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader\nfrom transformers import BertTokenizer, BertConfig\n\nif len(sys.argv) == 1 or sys.argv[1] != \"toy\":\n train_df = pd.read_csv(\"input/google-quest-challenge/train.csv\")\n N_EPOCHS, N_FOLDS = 8, 5\nelse:\n train_df = pd.read_csv(\"input/google-quest-challenge/train_toy.csv\")\n N_EPOCHS, N_FOLDS = 1, 1\n\ncheckpoint_dir = Path(\"input/stackx-base-cased/\")\nout_checkpoint_dir = Path(\"input/model1_ckpt/\")\n\nos.makedirs(str(checkpoint_dir), exist_ok=True)\n\ntokenizer = BertTokenizer(\n str(checkpoint_dir / \"stackx-base-cased-vocab.txt\"), do_lower_case=False\n)\n\n\ndef get_model():\n config = BertConfig.from_json_file(\n str(checkpoint_dir / \"stackx-base-cased-config.json\")\n )\n config.__dict__[\"num_labels\"] = len(ALL_TARGETS)\n\n model = BertForQuestRegression(config)\n state_dict = torch.load(\n checkpoint_dir\n / \"stackx_base_with_aux_ep_080_val_perplexity_4.39_val_spearman_0.34.pth\",\n map_location=\"cpu\",\n )\n state_dict = {\n name.replace(\"LayerNorm.gamma\", \"LayerNorm.weight\").replace(\n \"LayerNorm.beta\", \"LayerNorm.bias\"\n ): weight\n for name, weight in state_dict.items()\n }\n\n del state_dict[\"classifier.weight\"]\n del state_dict[\"classifier.bias\"]\n model.load_state_dict(state_dict, strict=False)\n return model\n\n\nfolds = pd.read_csv(\"input/model1_folds.txt\")[\"fold\"]\n\nloader_kws = dict(batch_size=4, num_workers=1)\n\nspearman = Spearman(ALL_TARGETS)\nfor fold_idx in range(N_FOLDS):\n train_frame, val_frame = train_df[folds != fold_idx], train_df[folds == fold_idx]\n\n train_dataset = QuestDataset(train_frame, tokenizer, max_seg_length=512)\n val_dataset = QuestDataset(val_frame, tokenizer, max_seg_length=512)\n\n train_loader = DataLoader(train_dataset, shuffle=True, **loader_kws)\n val_loader = DataLoader(val_dataset, shuffle=False, **loader_kws)\n\n model = get_model()\n trainer = Model(\n model,\n Adam(model.parameters(), lr=3e-5),\n \"bce_with_logits\",\n epoch_metrics=[spearman],\n )\n trainer.to(\"cuda\")\n\n checkpoint_name = (\n \"stackx_with_aux_80_fold_\"\n + str(fold_idx)\n + \"_ep_{epoch:03}_val_spearman_{val_spearman:.2f}.pth\"\n )\n callbacks = [\n spearman.callback,\n ModelCheckpoint(str(out_checkpoint_dir / checkpoint_name), atomic_write=False),\n CSVParamLogger(\n str(out_checkpoint_dir / \"training_log.csv\"),\n append=fold_idx != 0,\n extra_metrics=ALL_TARGETS,\n ),\n ]\n\n history = trainer.fit_generator(\n train_loader, val_loader, epochs=N_EPOCHS, callbacks=callbacks,\n )\n model.to(\"cpu\")\n del model\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n" }, { "path": "step3_model1_bert_code/utils.py", "content": "from copy import deepcopy\n\nimport numpy as np\nimport pandas as pd\nimport torch\nfrom data.dataset import ALL_TARGETS\nfrom scipy.stats import rankdata\n\n\ndef encode_labels(df, target_columns=ALL_TARGETS, method=\"average\"):\n target_columns = [t for t in target_columns if t in df]\n df = deepcopy(df)\n\n ranked = [rankdata(df[col], method=method).reshape(-1, 1) for col in target_columns]\n ranked = np.hstack(ranked) - 1\n df[target_columns] = ranked\n\n return df\n\n\ndef transform_target_columns_to_ordinals(\n df, target_columns=ALL_TARGETS, return_label_groups=False\n):\n target_columns = [t for t in target_columns if t in df]\n rank_labels = encode_labels(df, target_columns, method=\"dense\")\n\n ordinal_labels = []\n for col in target_columns:\n col_labels = rank_labels[col]\n\n new_col_names = [col + \"_\" + str(i) for i in sorted(np.unique(col_labels))]\n new_col_names = new_col_names[1:]\n ordinals = np.array(\n [[1] * label + [0] * (len(new_col_names) - label) for label in col_labels]\n )\n\n ordinals = pd.DataFrame(ordinals, columns=new_col_names, index=df.index)\n ordinal_labels.append(ordinals)\n ordinal_labels = pd.concat(ordinal_labels, axis=1)\n\n if return_label_groups:\n label_groups = {label: [] for label in target_columns}\n for label_idx, label in enumerate(ordinal_labels.columns):\n for group in label_groups:\n if label.startswith(group):\n label_groups[group].append(label_idx)\n\n return ordinal_labels, label_groups\n else:\n return ordinal_labels\n\n\ndef torch_to_numpy(obj, copy=False):\n \"\"\"\n Convert to Numpy arrays all tensors inside a Python object composed of the supported types.\n\n Args:\n obj: The Python object to convert.\n copy (bool): Whether to copy the memory. By default, if a tensor is already on CPU, the\n Numpy array will be a view of the tensor.\n\n Returns:\n A new Python object with the same structure as `obj` but where the tensors are now Numpy\n arrays. Not supported type are left as reference in the new object.\n\n Example:\n .. code-block:: python\n\n >>> from poutyne import torch_to_numpy\n >>> torch_to_numpy({\n ... 'first': torch.tensor([1, 2, 3]),\n ... 'second':[torch.tensor([4,5,6]), torch.tensor([7,8,9])],\n ... 'third': 34\n ... })\n {\n 'first': array([1, 2, 3]),\n 'second': [array([4, 5, 6]), array([7, 8, 9])],\n 'third': 34\n }\n\n See:\n :meth:`~poutyne.torch_apply` for supported types.\n \"\"\"\n if copy:\n func = lambda t: t.cpu().detach().numpy().copy()\n else:\n func = lambda t: t.cpu().detach().numpy()\n return torch_apply(obj, func)\n\n\ndef torch_to(obj, *args, **kargs):\n return torch_apply(obj, lambda t: t.to(*args, **kargs))\n\n\ndef torch_apply(obj, func):\n \"\"\"\n Apply a function to all tensors inside a Python object composed of the supported types.\n\n Supported types are: list, tuple and dict.\n\n Args:\n obj: The Python object to convert.\n func: The function to apply.\n\n Returns:\n A new Python object with the same structure as `obj` but where the tensors have been applied\n the function `func`. Not supported type are left as reference in the new object.\n \"\"\"\n fn = lambda t: func(t) if torch.is_tensor(t) else t\n return _apply(obj, fn)\n\n\ndef _apply(obj, func):\n if isinstance(obj, (list, tuple)):\n return type(obj)(_apply(el, func) for el in obj)\n if isinstance(obj, dict):\n return {k: _apply(el, func) for k, el in obj.items()}\n return func(obj)\n\n\ndef _concat(obj):\n if isinstance(obj[0], (list, tuple)):\n return tuple([_concat(ele) for ele in zip(*obj)])\n if isinstance(obj[0], dict):\n concat_dict = {}\n for key in obj[0].keys():\n concat_dict[key] = _concat([o[key] for o in obj])\n return concat_dict\n return np.concatenate(obj)\n\n\ndef numpy_to_torch(obj):\n \"\"\"\n Convert to tensors all Numpy arrays inside a Python object composed of the supported types.\n\n Args:\n obj: The Python object to convert.\n\n Returns:\n A new Python object with the same structure as `obj` but where the Numpy arrays are now\n tensors. Not supported type are left as reference in the new object.\n\n Example:\n .. code-block:: python\n\n >>> from poutyne import numpy_to_torch\n >>> numpy_to_torch({\n ... 'first': np.array([1, 2, 3]),\n ... 'second':[np.array([4,5,6]), np.array([7,8,9])],\n ... 'third': 34\n ... })\n {\n 'first': tensor([1, 2, 3]),\n 'second': [tensor([4, 5, 6]), tensor([7, 8, 9])],\n 'third': 34\n }\n\n\n \"\"\"\n fn = lambda a: torch.from_numpy(a) if isinstance(a, np.ndarray) else a\n return _apply(obj, fn)\n" }, { "path": "step4_model2_bert_code/apply_swa.py", "content": "import os\nimport argparse\nimport logging\n\nfrom mag.experiment import Experiment\nimport mag\nimport pandas as pd\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom model import get_model_optimizer\nfrom loops import train_loop, evaluate, infer\nfrom dataset import (\n cross_validation_split,\n get_test_set,\n BucketingSampler,\n make_collate_fn,\n)\nfrom transformers import BertTokenizer, AlbertTokenizer\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader, Dataset\nfrom evaluation import target_metric\nfrom misc import target_columns, input_columns\n\nmag.use_custom_separator(\"-\")\n\nparser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--experiment\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--epochs\", type=int, nargs=\"+\", required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--data_path\", type=str, required=True)\n\nargs = parser.parse_args()\n\nexperiment = Experiment(resume_from=args.experiment)\nconfig = experiment.config\n\nlogging.getLogger(\"transformers\").setLevel(logging.ERROR)\n\ntrain_df = pd.read_csv(os.path.join(args.data_path, \"train.csv\"))\ntest_df = pd.read_csv(os.path.join(args.data_path, \"test.csv\"))\nsubmission = pd.read_csv(os.path.join(args.data_path, \"sample_submission.csv\"))\n\noriginal_args = argparse.Namespace(\n folds=config.folds,\n lr=config.lr,\n batch_size=config.batch_size,\n seed=config._seed,\n bert_model=config._bert_model,\n num_classes=30,\n target_columns=target_columns,\n input_columns=input_columns,\n # old models didn't have those parameters in their configs\n max_sequence_length=getattr(config, \"max_sequence_length\", 500),\n max_title_length=getattr(config, \"max_title_length\", 26),\n max_question_length=getattr(config, \"max_question_length\", 260),\n max_answer_length=getattr(config, \"max_answer_length\", 210),\n head_tail=getattr(config, \"head_tail\", True),\n use_folds=None,\n)\n\ntokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained(\n original_args.bert_model, do_lower_case=(\"uncased\" in original_args.bert_model),\n)\n\ntest_set = get_test_set(original_args, test_df, tokenizer)\ntest_loader = DataLoader(\n test_set,\n batch_sampler=BucketingSampler(\n test_set.lengths,\n batch_size=original_args.batch_size,\n maxlen=original_args.max_sequence_length,\n ),\n collate_fn=make_collate_fn(),\n)\n\nval_dfs = []\n\nfor (fold, train_set, valid_set, train_fold_df, val_fold_df,) in cross_validation_split(\n original_args, train_df, tokenizer, ignore_train=True\n):\n\n print()\n print(\"Fold:\", fold)\n print()\n\n valid_loader = DataLoader(\n valid_set,\n batch_sampler=BucketingSampler(\n valid_set.lengths,\n batch_size=original_args.batch_size,\n maxlen=original_args.max_sequence_length,\n ),\n collate_fn=make_collate_fn(),\n )\n\n fold_checkpoints = os.path.join(experiment.checkpoints, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n fold_predictions = os.path.join(experiment.predictions, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n\n criterion = nn.BCEWithLogitsLoss()\n model, optimizer = get_model_optimizer(original_args)\n\n checkpoint = os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, \"model_on_epoch_{}.pth\")\n\n state_dicts = [torch.load(checkpoint.format(epoch)) for epoch in args.epochs]\n averaged_state_dict = state_dicts[0]\n for k in averaged_state_dict:\n averaged_state_dict[k] = torch.mean(\n torch.stack([state_dict[k] for state_dict in state_dicts], dim=0), dim=0,\n )\n\n torch.save(\n averaged_state_dict,\n os.path.join(\n fold_checkpoints, \"swa_{}.pth\".format(\"_\".join(map(str, args.epochs))),\n ),\n )\n\n model.load_state_dict(averaged_state_dict)\n\n # del state_dicts\n del averaged_state_dict\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n avg_val_loss, score, val_preds = evaluate(\n original_args, model, valid_loader, criterion, val_shape=len(valid_set)\n )\n\n print(\"Fold {} score: {}\".format(fold, score))\n\n val_preds_df = val_fold_df.copy()[[\"qa_id\"] + target_columns]\n val_preds_df[target_columns] = val_preds\n val_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(\n fold_predictions, \"val_swa_{}.csv\".format(\"_\".join(map(str, args.epochs))),\n ),\n index=False,\n )\n\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n val_dfs.append(val_preds_df)\n\n test_preds = infer(original_args, model, test_loader, test_shape=len(test_set))\n test_preds_df = submission.copy()\n test_preds_df[target_columns] = test_preds\n test_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(\n fold_predictions, \"test_swa_{}.csv\".format(\"_\".join(map(str, args.epochs))),\n ),\n index=False,\n )\n\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n print()\n\n\noof_df = pd.concat(val_dfs).reset_index(drop=True)\noof_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(\n experiment.predictions,\n \"oof_swa_{}.csv\".format(\"_\".join(map(str, args.epochs))),\n ),\n index=False,\n)\n\nprint(\"Final metric:\", target_metric(oof_df, train_df))\n" }, { "path": "step4_model2_bert_code/args.py", "content": "import argparse\n\nparser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--data_path\", type=str, default=\"../input/\")\nparser.add_argument(\n \"--toy\", type=str, default=\"False\", help=\"Whether to run with a toy example\"\n)\nparser.add_argument(\"--pseudo_file\", type=str)\nparser.add_argument(\"--n_pseudo\", type=int)\nparser.add_argument(\"--seed\", type=int, default=42)\nparser.add_argument(\"--folds\", type=int, default=5)\nparser.add_argument(\"--use_folds\", type=int, nargs=\"+\")\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--label\", type=str, default=\"qa\")\nparser.add_argument(\"--bert_model\", type=str, default=\"bert-large-uncased\")\nparser.add_argument(\"--batch_size\", type=int, default=8)\nparser.add_argument(\"--batch_accumulation\", type=int, default=4)\nparser.add_argument(\"--epochs\", type=int, default=5)\nparser.add_argument(\"--lr\", type=float, default=2e-5)\nparser.add_argument(\"--warmup\", type=int, default=200)\n\n# loss\nparser.add_argument(\"--num_classes\", type=int, default=30)\nparser.add_argument(\"--workers\", type=int, default=8)\n\n# tokenization\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_sequence_length\", type=int, default=290)\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_title_length\", type=int, default=30)\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_question_length\", type=int, default=128)\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_answer_length\", type=int, default=128)\nparser.add_argument(\"--head_tail\", type=str, default=\"True\")\n\n# infer\nparser.add_argument(\"--sub_file\", type=str, default=\"submission.csv\")\n\nargs = parser.parse_args()\n\nfor arg in [\"head_tail\"]:\n args.__dict__[arg] = args.__dict__[arg] == \"True\"\n\nfor arg in [\"lr\"]:\n args.__dict__[arg] = float(args.__dict__[arg])\nprint(\"Initial arguments\", args)\n\nargs.__dict__[\"input_columns\"] = [\"question_title\", \"question_body\", \"answer\"]\nargs.__dict__[\"target_columns\"] = [\n \"question_asker_intent_understanding\",\n \"question_body_critical\",\n \"question_conversational\",\n \"question_expect_short_answer\",\n \"question_fact_seeking\",\n \"question_has_commonly_accepted_answer\",\n \"question_interestingness_others\",\n \"question_interestingness_self\",\n \"question_multi_intent\",\n \"question_not_really_a_question\",\n \"question_opinion_seeking\",\n \"question_type_choice\",\n \"question_type_compare\",\n \"question_type_consequence\",\n \"question_type_definition\",\n \"question_type_entity\",\n \"question_type_instructions\",\n \"question_type_procedure\",\n \"question_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"question_type_spelling\",\n \"question_well_written\",\n \"answer_helpful\",\n \"answer_level_of_information\",\n \"answer_plausible\",\n \"answer_relevance\",\n \"answer_satisfaction\",\n \"answer_type_instructions\",\n \"answer_type_procedure\",\n \"answer_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"answer_well_written\",\n]\n" }, { "path": "step4_model2_bert_code/dataset.py", "content": "from math import floor, ceil\n\nimport torch\nfrom torch.utils.data.dataloader import default_collate\nfrom sklearn.model_selection import GroupKFold, KFold\nimport numpy as np\nimport pandas as pd\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader, Dataset\nfrom tqdm import tqdm\n\n\ndef _get_masks(tokens, max_seq_length):\n \"\"\"Mask for padding\"\"\"\n if len(tokens) > max_seq_length:\n raise IndexError(\"Token length more than max seq length!\")\n return [1] * len(tokens) # + [0] * (max_seq_length - len(tokens))\n\n\ndef _get_segments(tokens, max_seq_length):\n \"\"\"Segments: 0 for the first sequence, 1 for the second\"\"\"\n\n if len(tokens) > max_seq_length:\n raise IndexError(\"Token length more than max seq length!\")\n\n segments = []\n first_sep = True\n current_segment_id = 0\n\n for token in tokens:\n segments.append(current_segment_id)\n if token == \"[SEP]\":\n if first_sep:\n first_sep = False\n else:\n current_segment_id = 1\n return segments # + [0] * (max_seq_length - len(tokens))\n\n\ndef _get_ids(tokens, tokenizer, max_seq_length):\n \"\"\"Token ids from Tokenizer vocab\"\"\"\n\n token_ids = tokenizer.convert_tokens_to_ids(tokens)\n input_ids = token_ids # + [0] * (max_seq_length - len(token_ids))\n return input_ids\n\n\ndef _trim_input(\n args,\n tokenizer,\n title,\n question,\n answer,\n max_sequence_length=290,\n t_max_len=30,\n q_max_len=128,\n a_max_len=128,\n):\n # SICK THIS IS ALL SEEMS TO BE SICK\n\n t = tokenizer.tokenize(title)\n q = tokenizer.tokenize(question)\n a = tokenizer.tokenize(answer)\n\n t_len = len(t)\n q_len = len(q)\n a_len = len(a)\n\n if (t_len + q_len + a_len + 4) > max_sequence_length:\n\n if t_max_len > t_len:\n t_new_len = t_len\n a_max_len = a_max_len + floor((t_max_len - t_len) / 2)\n q_max_len = q_max_len + ceil((t_max_len - t_len) / 2)\n else:\n t_new_len = t_max_len\n\n if a_max_len > a_len:\n a_new_len = a_len\n q_new_len = q_max_len + (a_max_len - a_len)\n elif q_max_len > q_len:\n a_new_len = a_max_len + (q_max_len - q_len)\n q_new_len = q_len\n else:\n a_new_len = a_max_len\n q_new_len = q_max_len\n\n if t_new_len + a_new_len + q_new_len + 4 != max_sequence_length:\n raise ValueError(\n \"New sequence length should be %d, but is %d\"\n % (max_sequence_length, (t_new_len + a_new_len + q_new_len + 4))\n )\n q_len_head = round(q_new_len / 2)\n q_len_tail = -1 * (q_new_len - q_len_head)\n a_len_head = round(a_new_len / 2)\n a_len_tail = -1 * (a_new_len - a_len_head) ## Head+Tail method .\n t = t[:t_new_len]\n if args.head_tail:\n q = q[:q_len_head] + q[q_len_tail:]\n a = a[:a_len_head] + a[a_len_tail:]\n else:\n q = q[:q_new_len]\n a = a[:a_new_len] ## No Head+Tail ,usual processing\n\n return t, q, a\n\n\ndef _convert_to_bert_inputs(title, question, answer, tokenizer, max_sequence_length):\n \"\"\"Converts tokenized input to ids, masks and segments for BERT\"\"\"\n\n stoken = [\"[CLS]\"] + title + [\"[SEP]\"] + question + [\"[SEP]\"] + answer + [\"[SEP]\"]\n\n input_ids = _get_ids(stoken, tokenizer, max_sequence_length)\n input_masks = _get_masks(stoken, max_sequence_length)\n input_segments = _get_segments(stoken, max_sequence_length)\n\n return [input_ids, input_masks, input_segments]\n\n\ndef _get_stoken_output(title, question, answer, tokenizer, max_sequence_length):\n \"\"\"Converts tokenized input to ids, masks and segments for BERT\"\"\"\n\n stoken = [\"[CLS]\"] + title + [\"[SEP]\"] + question + [\"[SEP]\"] + answer + [\"[SEP]\"]\n return stoken\n\n\ndef compute_input_arays(\n args,\n df,\n columns,\n tokenizer,\n max_sequence_length,\n t_max_len=30,\n q_max_len=128,\n a_max_len=128,\n):\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments = [], [], []\n for _, instance in tqdm(\n df[columns].iterrows(), desc=\"Preparing dataset\", total=len(df), ncols=80,\n ):\n t, q, a = (\n instance.question_title,\n instance.question_body,\n instance.answer,\n )\n t, q, a = _trim_input(\n args,\n tokenizer,\n t,\n q,\n a,\n max_sequence_length,\n t_max_len,\n q_max_len,\n a_max_len,\n )\n ids, masks, segments = _convert_to_bert_inputs(\n t, q, a, tokenizer, max_sequence_length\n )\n\n input_ids.append(np.array(ids, dtype=np.int64))\n input_masks.append(np.array(masks, dtype=np.int64))\n input_segments.append(np.array(segments, dtype=np.int64))\n\n return (input_ids, input_masks, input_segments)\n\n\ndef compute_output_arrays(df, columns):\n return np.asarray(df[columns])\n\n\nclass BucketingSampler:\n def __init__(self, lengths, batch_size, maxlen=500):\n\n self.lengths = lengths\n self.batch_size = batch_size\n self.maxlen = 500\n\n self.batches = self._make_batches(lengths, batch_size, maxlen)\n\n def _make_batches(self, lengths, batch_size, maxlen):\n\n max_total_length = maxlen * batch_size\n ids = np.argsort(lengths)\n\n current_maxlen = 0\n batch = []\n batches = []\n\n for id in ids:\n current_len = len(batch) * current_maxlen\n size = lengths[id]\n current_maxlen = max(size, current_maxlen)\n new_len = current_maxlen * (len(batch) + 1)\n if new_len < max_total_length:\n batch.append(id)\n else:\n batches.append(batch)\n current_maxlen = size\n batch = [id]\n\n if batch:\n batches.append(batch)\n\n assert (sum(len(batch) for batch in batches)) == len(lengths)\n\n return batches\n\n def __len__(self):\n return len(self.batches)\n\n def __iter__(self):\n return iter(self.batches)\n\n\ndef make_collate_fn(\n padding_values={\"input_ids\": 0, \"input_masks\": 0, \"input_segments\": 0}\n):\n def _collate_fn(batch):\n\n for name, padding_value in padding_values.items():\n\n lengths = [len(sample[name]) for sample in batch]\n max_length = max(lengths)\n\n for n, size in enumerate(lengths):\n p = max_length - size\n if p:\n pad_width = [(0, p)] + [(0, 0)] * (batch[n][name].ndim - 1)\n if padding_value == \"edge\":\n batch[n][name] = np.pad(batch[n][name], pad_width, mode=\"edge\")\n else:\n batch[n][name] = np.pad(\n batch[n][name],\n pad_width,\n mode=\"constant\",\n constant_values=padding_value,\n )\n\n return default_collate(batch)\n\n return _collate_fn\n\n\nclass QuestDataset(torch.utils.data.Dataset):\n def __init__(self, inputs, lengths, labels=None):\n self.inputs = inputs\n self.labels = labels\n self.lengths = lengths\n\n @classmethod\n def from_frame(cls, args, df, tokenizer, test=False):\n \"\"\" here I put major preprocessing. why not lol\n \"\"\"\n inputs = compute_input_arays(\n args,\n df,\n args.input_columns,\n tokenizer,\n max_sequence_length=args.max_sequence_length,\n t_max_len=args.max_title_length,\n q_max_len=args.max_question_length,\n a_max_len=args.max_answer_length,\n )\n\n outputs = None\n if not test:\n outputs = compute_output_arrays(df, args.target_columns)\n outputs = torch.tensor(outputs, dtype=torch.float32)\n\n # lengths = np.argmax(inputs[0] == 0, axis=1)\n # lengths[lengths == 0] = inputs[0].shape[1]\n lengths = [len(x) for x in inputs[0]]\n\n return cls(inputs=inputs, lengths=lengths, labels=outputs)\n\n def __len__(self):\n return len(self.inputs[0])\n\n def __getitem__(self, idx):\n input_ids = self.inputs[0][idx]\n input_masks = self.inputs[1][idx]\n input_segments = self.inputs[2][idx]\n lengths = self.lengths[idx]\n\n sample = dict(\n idx=idx,\n input_ids=input_ids,\n input_masks=input_masks,\n input_segments=input_segments,\n lengths=lengths,\n )\n\n if self.labels is not None:\n labels = self.labels[idx]\n sample[\"labels\"] = labels\n\n return sample\n\n\ndef cross_validation_split(args, train_df, tokenizer, ignore_train=False):\n kf = GroupKFold(n_splits=args.folds)\n y_train = train_df[args.target_columns].values\n\n for fold, (train_index, val_index) in enumerate(\n kf.split(train_df.values, groups=train_df.question_title)\n ):\n\n if args.use_folds is not None and fold not in args.use_folds:\n continue\n\n if not ignore_train:\n train_subdf = train_df.iloc[train_index]\n train_set = QuestDataset.from_frame(args, train_subdf, tokenizer)\n else:\n train_set = None\n\n valid_set = QuestDataset.from_frame(args, train_df.iloc[val_index], tokenizer)\n\n yield (\n fold,\n train_set,\n valid_set,\n train_df.iloc[train_index],\n train_df.iloc[val_index],\n )\n\n\ndef get_pseudo_set(args, pseudo_df, tokenizer):\n return QuestDataset.from_frame(args, pseudo_df, tokenizer)\n\n\ndef get_test_set(args, test_df, tokenizer):\n return QuestDataset.from_frame(args, test_df, tokenizer, True)\n" }, { "path": "step4_model2_bert_code/evaluation.py", "content": "import pandas as pd\nfrom scipy.stats import spearmanr\nimport numpy as np\n\nfrom misc import target_columns\n\n\ndef target_metric(prediction, actual, columns=target_columns):\n\n prediction = prediction.sort_values(by=\"qa_id\").reset_index(drop=True)\n actual = actual.sort_values(by=\"qa_id\").reset_index(drop=True)\n\n assert (prediction.qa_id == actual.qa_id).all()\n\n score = 0\n for col in columns:\n score += np.nan_to_num(\n spearmanr(prediction[col], actual[col]).correlation\n ) / len(target_columns)\n return score\n" }, { "path": "step4_model2_bert_code/infer.py", "content": "import os\nimport argparse\nimport logging\n\nfrom mag.experiment import Experiment\nimport mag\nimport pandas as pd\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom model import get_model_optimizer\nfrom loops import train_loop, evaluate, infer\nfrom dataset import (\n cross_validation_split,\n get_test_set,\n BucketingSampler,\n make_collate_fn,\n)\nfrom transformers import BertTokenizer, AlbertTokenizer\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader, Dataset\nfrom evaluation import target_metric\nfrom misc import target_columns, input_columns\n\nmag.use_custom_separator(\"-\")\n\nparser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--experiment\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--checkpoint\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--dataframe\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--output_dir\", type=str, required=True)\n\nargs = parser.parse_args()\n\nexperiment = Experiment(resume_from=args.experiment)\nconfig = experiment.config\n\nlogging.getLogger(\"transformers\").setLevel(logging.ERROR)\n\ntest_df = pd.read_csv(args.dataframe)\n\noriginal_args = argparse.Namespace(\n folds=config.folds,\n lr=config.lr,\n batch_size=config.batch_size,\n seed=config._seed,\n bert_model=config._bert_model,\n num_classes=30,\n target_columns=target_columns,\n input_columns=input_columns,\n # old models didn't have those parameters in their configs\n max_sequence_length=getattr(config, \"max_sequence_length\", 500),\n max_title_length=getattr(config, \"max_title_length\", 26),\n max_question_length=getattr(config, \"max_question_length\", 260),\n max_answer_length=getattr(config, \"max_answer_length\", 210),\n head_tail=getattr(config, \"head_tail\", True),\n use_folds=None,\n)\n\ntokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained(\n original_args.bert_model, do_lower_case=(\"uncased\" in original_args.bert_model)\n)\n\ntest_set = get_test_set(original_args, test_df, tokenizer)\ntest_loader = DataLoader(\n test_set,\n batch_sampler=BucketingSampler(\n test_set.lengths,\n batch_size=original_args.batch_size,\n maxlen=original_args.max_sequence_length,\n ),\n collate_fn=make_collate_fn(),\n)\n\nos.makedirs(args.output_dir)\n\nfor fold in range(config.folds):\n\n print()\n print(\"Fold:\", fold)\n print()\n\n fold_checkpoints = os.path.join(experiment.checkpoints, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n\n model, optimizer = get_model_optimizer(original_args)\n\n checkpoint = os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, args.checkpoint)\n\n state_dict = torch.load(checkpoint)\n model.load_state_dict(state_dict)\n del state_dict\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n test_preds = infer(original_args, model, test_loader, test_shape=len(test_set))\n\n del model, optimizer\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n test_preds_df = test_df[[\"qa_id\"]].copy()\n for k, col in enumerate(target_columns):\n test_preds_df[col] = test_preds[:, k].astype(np.float32)\n test_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(args.output_dir, \"fold-{}.csv\".format(fold)), index=False,\n )\n" }, { "path": "step4_model2_bert_code/loops.py", "content": "import numpy as np\nimport torch\nimport gc\nfrom scipy.stats import spearmanr\nfrom tqdm import tqdm\n\n\ndef train_loop(model, train_loader, optimizer, criterion, scheduler, args, iteration):\n model.train()\n\n avg_loss = 0.0\n\n optimizer.zero_grad()\n for idx, batch in enumerate(tqdm(train_loader, desc=\"Train\", ncols=80)):\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels = (\n batch[\"input_ids\"],\n batch[\"input_masks\"],\n batch[\"input_segments\"],\n batch[\"labels\"],\n )\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels = (\n input_ids.cuda(),\n input_masks.cuda(),\n input_segments.cuda(),\n labels.cuda(),\n )\n\n logits = model(\n input_ids=input_ids.long(),\n attention_mask=input_masks,\n token_type_ids=input_segments,\n )\n loss = criterion(logits, labels)\n\n loss.backward()\n if (iteration + 1) % args.batch_accumulation == 0:\n optimizer.step()\n scheduler.step()\n optimizer.zero_grad()\n iteration += 1\n\n avg_loss += loss.item() / (len(train_loader) * args.batch_accumulation)\n\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n gc.collect()\n return (avg_loss, iteration)\n\n\ndef evaluate(args, model, val_loader, criterion, val_shape):\n avg_val_loss = 0.0\n model.eval()\n\n valid_preds = []\n original = []\n ids = []\n\n with torch.no_grad():\n for idx, batch in enumerate(tqdm(val_loader, desc=\"Valid\", ncols=80)):\n id, input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels = (\n batch[\"idx\"],\n batch[\"input_ids\"],\n batch[\"input_masks\"],\n batch[\"input_segments\"],\n batch[\"labels\"],\n )\n ids.extend(id.cpu().numpy())\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels = (\n input_ids.cuda(),\n input_masks.cuda(),\n input_segments.cuda(),\n labels.cuda(),\n )\n\n logits = model(\n input_ids=input_ids.long(),\n attention_mask=input_masks,\n token_type_ids=input_segments,\n )\n\n avg_val_loss += criterion(logits, labels).item() / len(val_loader)\n valid_preds.extend(logits.detach().cpu().numpy())\n original.extend(labels.detach().cpu().numpy())\n\n valid_preds = np.array(valid_preds)\n original = np.array(original)\n\n score = 0\n preds = torch.sigmoid(torch.tensor(valid_preds)).numpy()\n\n for i in range(len(args.target_columns)):\n score += np.nan_to_num(spearmanr(original[:, i], preds[:, i]).correlation)\n\n return avg_val_loss, score / len(args.target_columns), preds[np.argsort(ids)]\n\n\ndef infer(args, model, test_loader, test_shape):\n test_preds = np.zeros((test_shape, args.num_classes))\n model.eval()\n\n ids = []\n test_preds = []\n\n for idx, batch in enumerate(tqdm(test_loader, desc=\"Test\", ncols=80)):\n with torch.no_grad():\n\n ids.extend(batch[\"idx\"].cpu().numpy())\n\n predictions = model(\n input_ids=batch[\"input_ids\"].cuda(),\n attention_mask=batch[\"input_masks\"].cuda(),\n token_type_ids=batch[\"input_segments\"].cuda(),\n )\n test_preds.extend(predictions.detach().cpu().numpy())\n\n test_preds = np.array(test_preds)\n\n output = torch.sigmoid(torch.tensor(test_preds)).numpy()\n return output[np.argsort(ids)]\n" }, { "path": "step4_model2_bert_code/misc.py", "content": "target_columns = [\n \"question_asker_intent_understanding\",\n \"question_body_critical\",\n \"question_conversational\",\n \"question_expect_short_answer\",\n \"question_fact_seeking\",\n \"question_has_commonly_accepted_answer\",\n \"question_interestingness_others\",\n \"question_interestingness_self\",\n \"question_multi_intent\",\n \"question_not_really_a_question\",\n \"question_opinion_seeking\",\n \"question_type_choice\",\n \"question_type_compare\",\n \"question_type_consequence\",\n \"question_type_definition\",\n \"question_type_entity\",\n \"question_type_instructions\",\n \"question_type_procedure\",\n \"question_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"question_type_spelling\",\n \"question_well_written\",\n \"answer_helpful\",\n \"answer_level_of_information\",\n \"answer_plausible\",\n \"answer_relevance\",\n \"answer_satisfaction\",\n \"answer_type_instructions\",\n \"answer_type_procedure\",\n \"answer_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"answer_well_written\",\n]\n\ninput_columns = [\"question_title\", \"question_body\", \"answer\"]\n" }, { "path": "step4_model2_bert_code/model.py", "content": "import logging\nfrom transformers.modeling_bert import BertPreTrainedModel\nfrom transformers import (\n BertTokenizer,\n BertModel,\n BertForSequenceClassification,\n BertConfig,\n AdamW,\n get_linear_schedule_with_warmup,\n get_cosine_schedule_with_warmup,\n)\n\nlogging.getLogger(\"transformers\").setLevel(logging.ERROR)\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\nfrom torch import nn\n\n\nclass Squeeze(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, dim):\n super().__init__()\n self.dim = dim\n\n def forward(self, x):\n return x.squeeze(self.dim)\n\n\nclass CustomBert(BertPreTrainedModel):\n def __init__(self, config):\n config.output_hidden_states = True\n super(CustomBert, self).__init__(config)\n self.num_labels = config.num_labels\n self.bert = BertModel(config)\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(p=0.2)\n self.high_dropout = nn.Dropout(p=0.5)\n\n n_weights = config.num_hidden_layers + 1\n weights_init = torch.zeros(n_weights).float()\n weights_init.data[:-1] = -3\n self.layer_weights = torch.nn.Parameter(weights_init)\n\n self.classifier = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, self.config.num_labels)\n\n self.init_weights()\n\n def forward(\n self,\n input_ids=None,\n attention_mask=None,\n token_type_ids=None,\n position_ids=None,\n head_mask=None,\n inputs_embeds=None,\n ):\n\n outputs = self.bert(\n input_ids,\n attention_mask=attention_mask,\n token_type_ids=token_type_ids,\n position_ids=position_ids,\n head_mask=head_mask,\n inputs_embeds=inputs_embeds,\n )\n\n hidden_layers = outputs[2]\n last_hidden = outputs[0]\n\n cls_outputs = torch.stack(\n [self.dropout(layer[:, 0, :]) for layer in hidden_layers], dim=2\n )\n cls_output = (torch.softmax(self.layer_weights, dim=0) * cls_outputs).sum(-1)\n\n # multisample dropout (wut): https://arxiv.org/abs/1905.09788\n logits = torch.mean(\n torch.stack(\n [self.classifier(self.high_dropout(cls_output)) for _ in range(5)],\n dim=0,\n ),\n dim=0,\n )\n\n outputs = logits\n # add hidden states and attention if they are here\n\n return outputs # (loss), logits, (hidden_states), (attentions)\n\n\ndef get_model_optimizer(args):\n model = CustomBert.from_pretrained(args.bert_model, num_labels=args.num_classes)\n model.cuda()\n model = nn.DataParallel(model)\n params = list(model.named_parameters())\n\n def is_backbone(n):\n return \"bert\" in n\n\n optimizer_grouped_parameters = [\n {\"params\": [p for n, p in params if is_backbone(n)], \"lr\": args.lr},\n {\"params\": [p for n, p in params if not is_backbone(n)], \"lr\": args.lr * 500},\n ]\n\n optimizer = torch.optim.AdamW(\n optimizer_grouped_parameters, lr=args.lr, weight_decay=0\n )\n\n return model, optimizer\n" }, { "path": "step4_model2_bert_code/run.py", "content": "import warnings, logging\n\nwarnings.filterwarnings(\"ignore\")\n\nimport gc\nimport random\nimport os, multiprocessing, glob\nimport numpy as np\nimport pandas as pd\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\nfrom torch.utils.data import ConcatDataset\n\nfrom transformers import get_linear_schedule_with_warmup\nfrom model import get_model_optimizer\nfrom loops import train_loop, evaluate, infer\nfrom dataset import (\n cross_validation_split,\n get_test_set,\n get_pseudo_set,\n make_collate_fn,\n BucketingSampler,\n)\nfrom args import args\nfrom transformers import BertTokenizer, AlbertTokenizer\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader, Dataset\n\nfrom mag.experiment import Experiment\nimport mag\n\nmag.use_custom_separator(\"-\")\n\nconfig = {\n \"_seed\": args.seed,\n \"_bert_model\": args.bert_model,\n \"batch_accumulation\": args.batch_accumulation,\n \"batch_size\": args.batch_size,\n \"warmup\": args.warmup,\n \"lr\": args.lr,\n \"folds\": args.folds,\n \"max_sequence_length\": args.max_sequence_length,\n \"max_title_length\": args.max_title_length,\n \"max_question_length\": args.max_question_length,\n \"max_answer_length\": args.max_answer_length,\n \"head_tail\": args.head_tail,\n \"label\": args.label,\n \"_pseudo_file\": args.pseudo_file,\n}\nexperiment = Experiment(config, implicit_resuming=args.use_folds is not None)\nexperiment.register_directory(\"checkpoints\")\nexperiment.register_directory(\"predictions\")\n\n\ndef seed_everything(seed: int):\n random.seed(seed)\n os.environ[\"PYTHONHASHSEED\"] = str(seed)\n np.random.seed(seed)\n torch.manual_seed(seed)\n torch.cuda.manual_seed(seed)\n torch.backends.cudnn.deterministic = True\n\n\nlogging.getLogger(\"transformers\").setLevel(logging.ERROR)\nseed_everything(args.seed)\n\n## load the data\ntrain_df = pd.read_csv(\n os.path.join(\n args.data_path, \"train_toy.csv\" if args.toy in [\"True\", \"toy\"] else \"train.csv\"\n )\n)\ntest_df = pd.read_csv(\n os.path.join(\n args.data_path, \"test_toy.csv\" if args.toy in [\"True\", \"toy\"] else \"test.csv\"\n )\n)\nsubmission = pd.read_csv(\n os.path.join(\n args.data_path,\n \"sample_submission_toy.csv\"\n if args.toy in [\"True\", \"toy\"]\n else \"sample_submission.csv\",\n )\n)\n\ntokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained(\n args.bert_model, do_lower_case=(\"uncased\" in args.bert_model)\n)\n\ntest_set = get_test_set(args, test_df, tokenizer)\ntest_loader = DataLoader(\n test_set,\n batch_sampler=BucketingSampler(\n test_set.lengths, batch_size=args.batch_size, maxlen=args.max_sequence_length\n ),\n collate_fn=make_collate_fn(),\n)\n\n\nfor fold, train_set, valid_set, train_fold_df, val_fold_df in cross_validation_split(\n args, train_df, tokenizer\n):\n\n print()\n print(\"Fold:\", fold)\n print()\n\n valid_loader = DataLoader(\n valid_set,\n batch_sampler=BucketingSampler(\n valid_set.lengths,\n batch_size=args.batch_size,\n maxlen=args.max_sequence_length,\n ),\n collate_fn=make_collate_fn(),\n )\n\n fold_checkpoints = os.path.join(experiment.checkpoints, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n fold_predictions = os.path.join(experiment.predictions, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n\n os.makedirs(fold_checkpoints, exist_ok=True)\n os.makedirs(fold_predictions, exist_ok=True)\n\n iteration = 0\n best_score = -1.0\n\n model, optimizer = get_model_optimizer(args)\n criterion = nn.BCEWithLogitsLoss()\n\n for epoch in range(args.epochs):\n\n epoch_train_set = train_set\n\n if args.pseudo_file is not None:\n\n pseudo_df = pd.read_csv(args.pseudo_file.format(fold))\n\n pseudo_set = get_pseudo_set(\n args, pseudo_df.sample(args.n_pseudo), tokenizer\n )\n\n epoch_train_set = ConcatDataset([epoch_train_set, pseudo_set])\n\n train_loader = DataLoader(\n epoch_train_set,\n batch_size=args.batch_size,\n num_workers=args.workers,\n collate_fn=make_collate_fn(),\n drop_last=True,\n shuffle=True,\n )\n\n scheduler = get_linear_schedule_with_warmup(\n optimizer,\n num_warmup_steps=args.warmup,\n num_training_steps=(\n args.epochs * len(train_loader) / args.batch_accumulation\n ),\n )\n\n avg_loss, iteration = train_loop(\n model, train_loader, optimizer, criterion, scheduler, args, iteration,\n )\n\n avg_val_loss, score, val_preds = evaluate(\n args, model, valid_loader, criterion, val_shape=len(valid_set)\n )\n\n print(\n \"Epoch {}/{}: \\t loss={:.4f} \\t val_loss={:.4f} \\t score={:.6f}\".format(\n epoch + 1, args.epochs, avg_loss, avg_val_loss, score\n )\n )\n\n torch.save(\n model.state_dict(),\n os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, \"model_on_epoch_{}.pth\".format(epoch)),\n )\n val_preds_df = val_fold_df.copy()[[\"qa_id\"] + args.target_columns]\n val_preds_df[args.target_columns] = val_preds\n val_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(fold_predictions, \"val_on_epoch_{}.csv\".format(epoch)),\n index=False,\n )\n\n test_preds = infer(args, model, test_loader, test_shape=len(test_set))\n test_preds_df = submission.copy()\n test_preds_df[args.target_columns] = test_preds\n test_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(fold_predictions, \"test_on_epoch_{}.csv\".format(epoch)),\n index=False,\n )\n\n if score > best_score:\n best_score = score\n torch.save(\n model.state_dict(), os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, \"best_model.pth\"),\n )\n val_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(fold_predictions, \"best_val.csv\"), index=False\n )\n test_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(fold_predictions, \"best_test.csv\"), index=False\n )\n del model, optimizer, criterion, scheduler\n del valid_loader, train_loader, valid_set, train_set\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n gc.collect()\n\n print()\n\nbest_val_df_files = [\n os.path.join(experiment.predictions, \"fold{}\".format(fold), \"best_val.csv\")\n for fold in range(args.folds)\n]\n\nif all(os.path.isfile(file) for file in best_val_df_files):\n best_val_dfs = [pd.read_csv(file) for file in best_val_df_files]\n # create oof df only if all folds were used\n oof_df = pd.concat(best_val_dfs).reset_index(drop=True)\n oof_df.to_csv(os.path.join(experiment.predictions, \"oof.csv\"), index=False)\n" }, { "path": "step5_model3_roberta_code/args.py", "content": "import argparse\n\nparser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--data_path\", type=str, default=\"../input/\")\nparser.add_argument(\n \"--toy\", type=str, default=\"False\", help=\"Whether to run with a toy example\"\n)\nparser.add_argument(\"--pseudo_file\", type=str)\nparser.add_argument(\"--n_pseudo\", type=int)\nparser.add_argument(\"--seed\", type=int, default=42)\nparser.add_argument(\"--folds\", type=int, default=5)\nparser.add_argument(\"--use_folds\", type=int, nargs=\"+\")\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--model_type\", type=str, default=\"bert\")\nparser.add_argument(\"--label\", type=str, default=\"qa\")\nparser.add_argument(\"--bert_model\", type=str, default=\"bert-large-uncased\")\nparser.add_argument(\"--batch_size\", type=int, default=8)\nparser.add_argument(\"--batch_accumulation\", type=int, default=4)\nparser.add_argument(\"--epochs\", type=int, default=5)\nparser.add_argument(\"--lr\", type=float, default=2e-5)\nparser.add_argument(\"--warmup\", type=int, default=200)\n\n# loss\nparser.add_argument(\"--num_classes\", type=int, default=30)\nparser.add_argument(\"--workers\", type=int, default=8)\n\n# tokenization\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_sequence_length\", type=int, default=290)\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_title_length\", type=int, default=30)\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_question_length\", type=int, default=128)\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_answer_length\", type=int, default=128)\nparser.add_argument(\"--head_tail\", type=str, default=\"True\")\n\n# infer\nparser.add_argument(\"--sub_file\", type=str, default=\"submission.csv\")\n\nargs = parser.parse_args()\n\nfor arg in [\"head_tail\"]:\n args.__dict__[arg] = args.__dict__[arg] == \"True\"\n\nfor arg in [\"lr\"]:\n args.__dict__[arg] = float(args.__dict__[arg])\nprint(\"Initial arguments\", args)\n\nargs.__dict__[\"input_columns\"] = [\"question_title\", \"question_body\", \"answer\"]\nargs.__dict__[\"target_columns\"] = [\n \"question_asker_intent_understanding\",\n \"question_body_critical\",\n \"question_conversational\",\n \"question_expect_short_answer\",\n \"question_fact_seeking\",\n \"question_has_commonly_accepted_answer\",\n \"question_interestingness_others\",\n \"question_interestingness_self\",\n \"question_multi_intent\",\n \"question_not_really_a_question\",\n \"question_opinion_seeking\",\n \"question_type_choice\",\n \"question_type_compare\",\n \"question_type_consequence\",\n \"question_type_definition\",\n \"question_type_entity\",\n \"question_type_instructions\",\n \"question_type_procedure\",\n \"question_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"question_type_spelling\",\n \"question_well_written\",\n \"answer_helpful\",\n \"answer_level_of_information\",\n \"answer_plausible\",\n \"answer_relevance\",\n \"answer_satisfaction\",\n \"answer_type_instructions\",\n \"answer_type_procedure\",\n \"answer_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"answer_well_written\",\n]\n" }, { "path": "step5_model3_roberta_code/augmentation.py", "content": "import numpy as np\nfrom typing import List\nfrom transformers import BertTokenizer\n\n\nclass BertRandomTokenizer(BertTokenizer):\n def __init__(\n self,\n vocab_file,\n lower_case_prob=1.0,\n basic_tokenize_prob=1.0,\n piece_split_prob=0.0,\n recursive=False,\n **kwargs\n ):\n super(BertRandomTokenizer, self).__init__(\n vocab_file,\n do_lower_case=lower_case_prob > 0,\n do_basic_tokenize=True,\n **kwargs\n )\n self.lower_case_prob = lower_case_prob\n self.basic_tokenize_prob = basic_tokenize_prob\n self.piece_split_prob = piece_split_prob\n self.recursive = recursive\n\n def _split_word_piece(self, token: str) -> List[str]:\n if token in self.all_special_tokens:\n return [token]\n\n token_id = self.wordpiece_tokenizer.vocab.pop(token)\n pieces = self.wordpiece_tokenizer.tokenize(token)\n self.wordpiece_tokenizer.vocab[token] = token_id\n\n if self.unk_token not in pieces and len(pieces) > 0:\n return pieces\n else:\n return [token]\n\n def _tokenize(self, text):\n self.basic_tokenizer.do_lower_case = (\n np.random.uniform(0, 1) <= self.lower_case_prob\n )\n self.do_basic_tokenize = np.random.uniform(0, 1) <= self.basic_tokenize_prob\n\n def unroll(token_list):\n tokens = []\n for item in token_list:\n if not isinstance(item, list):\n tokens.append(item)\n else:\n tokens += item\n return tokens\n\n tokens = super(BertRandomTokenizer, self)._tokenize(text)\n\n current_pos = 0\n while current_pos < len(tokens):\n if np.random.uniform(0, 1) <= self.piece_split_prob:\n tokens[current_pos] = self._split_word_piece(tokens[current_pos])\n if self.recursive:\n tokens = unroll(tokens)\n current_pos += 1\n\n tokens = unroll(tokens)\n return tokens\n" }, { "path": "step5_model3_roberta_code/dataset.py", "content": "from math import floor, ceil\nimport torch\nimport numpy as np\nfrom tqdm import tqdm\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader\nfrom sklearn.model_selection import GroupKFold\n\n\ndef _get_masks(tokens, tokenizer, max_seq_length):\n \"\"\"Mask for padding\"\"\"\n # if len(tokens) > max_seq_length:\n # raise IndexError(\"Token length more than max seq length!\")\n tokens = tokens[:max_seq_length]\n return [1] * len(tokens) + [0] * (max_seq_length - len(tokens))\n\n\ndef _get_segments(tokens, tokenizer, max_seq_length):\n \"\"\"Segments: 0 for the first sequence, 1 for the second\"\"\"\n\n # if len(tokens) > max_seq_length:\n # raise IndexError(\"Token length more than max seq length!\")\n tokens = tokens[:max_seq_length]\n\n segments = []\n first_sep = True\n current_segment_id = 0\n\n for token in tokens:\n segments.append(current_segment_id)\n if token == tokenizer.sep_token:\n if first_sep:\n first_sep = False\n else:\n current_segment_id = 1\n return segments + [0] * (max_seq_length - len(tokens))\n\n\ndef _get_ids(tokens, tokenizer, max_seq_length):\n \"\"\"Token ids from Tokenizer vocab\"\"\"\n\n token_ids = tokenizer.convert_tokens_to_ids(tokens)\n token_ids = token_ids[:max_seq_length]\n input_ids = token_ids + [0] * (max_seq_length - len(token_ids))\n return input_ids\n\n\ndef _trim_input(\n args,\n tokenizer,\n title,\n question,\n answer,\n max_sequence_length=290,\n t_max_len=30,\n q_max_len=128,\n a_max_len=128,\n):\n # SICK THIS IS ALL SEEMS TO BE SICK\n\n t = tokenizer.tokenize(title)\n q = tokenizer.tokenize(question)\n a = tokenizer.tokenize(answer)\n\n t_len = len(t)\n q_len = len(q)\n a_len = len(a)\n\n if (t_len + q_len + a_len + 4) > max_sequence_length:\n\n if t_max_len > t_len:\n t_new_len = t_len\n a_max_len = a_max_len + floor((t_max_len - t_len) / 2)\n q_max_len = q_max_len + ceil((t_max_len - t_len) / 2)\n else:\n t_new_len = t_max_len\n\n if a_max_len > a_len:\n a_new_len = a_len\n q_new_len = q_max_len + (a_max_len - a_len)\n elif q_max_len > q_len:\n a_new_len = a_max_len + (q_max_len - q_len)\n q_new_len = q_len\n else:\n a_new_len = a_max_len\n q_new_len = q_max_len\n\n if t_new_len + a_new_len + q_new_len + 4 != max_sequence_length:\n raise ValueError(\n \"New sequence length should be %d, but is %d\"\n % (max_sequence_length, (t_new_len + a_new_len + q_new_len + 4))\n )\n q_len_head = round(q_new_len / 2)\n q_len_tail = -1 * (q_new_len - q_len_head)\n a_len_head = round(a_new_len / 2)\n a_len_tail = -1 * (a_new_len - a_len_head) ## Head+Tail method .\n t = t[:t_new_len]\n if args.head_tail:\n q = q[:q_len_head] + q[q_len_tail:]\n a = a[:a_len_head] + a[a_len_tail:]\n else:\n q = q[:q_new_len]\n a = a[:a_new_len] ## No Head+Tail ,usual processing\n\n return t, q, a\n\n\ndef _convert_to_bert_inputs(\n title, question, answer, tokenizer, max_sequence_length, model_type,\n):\n \"\"\"Converts tokenized input to ids, masks and segments for BERT\"\"\"\n if model_type == \"roberta\":\n stoken = (\n [tokenizer.cls_token]\n + title\n + [tokenizer.sep_token] * 2\n + question\n + [tokenizer.sep_token] * 2\n + answer\n + [tokenizer.sep_token] * 2\n )\n\n else:\n stoken = (\n [tokenizer.cls_token]\n + title\n + [tokenizer.sep_token]\n + question\n + [tokenizer.sep_token]\n + answer\n + [tokenizer.sep_token]\n )\n\n input_ids = _get_ids(stoken, tokenizer, max_sequence_length)\n input_masks = _get_masks(stoken, tokenizer, max_sequence_length)\n input_segments = _get_segments(stoken, tokenizer, max_sequence_length)\n\n return [input_ids, input_masks, input_segments]\n\n\ndef compute_input_arrays(\n args,\n df,\n columns,\n tokenizer,\n max_sequence_length,\n t_max_len=30,\n q_max_len=128,\n a_max_len=128,\n verbose=True,\n):\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments = [], [], []\n\n iterator = df[columns].iterrows()\n if verbose:\n iterator = tqdm(iterator, desc=\"Preparing dataset\", total=len(df), ncols=80,)\n\n for _, instance in iterator:\n t, q, a = (\n instance.question_title,\n instance.question_body,\n instance.answer,\n )\n t, q, a = _trim_input(\n args,\n tokenizer,\n t,\n q,\n a,\n max_sequence_length,\n t_max_len,\n q_max_len,\n a_max_len,\n )\n ids, masks, segments = _convert_to_bert_inputs(\n t, q, a, tokenizer, max_sequence_length, args.model_type,\n )\n\n input_ids.append(ids)\n input_masks.append(masks)\n input_segments.append(segments)\n\n return (\n torch.from_numpy(np.asarray(input_ids, dtype=np.int32)).long(),\n torch.from_numpy(np.asarray(input_masks, dtype=np.int32)).long(),\n torch.from_numpy(np.asarray(input_segments, dtype=np.int32)).long(),\n )\n\n\ndef compute_output_arrays(df, columns):\n return np.asarray(df[columns])\n\n\nclass QuestDataset(torch.utils.data.Dataset):\n def __init__(\n self,\n args,\n df,\n tokenizer,\n test=False,\n title_transform=None,\n body_transform=None,\n answer_transform=None,\n ):\n self.data = df\n self.tokenizer = tokenizer\n self.is_test = test\n self.params = args\n\n self.title_transform = title_transform\n self.body_transform = body_transform\n self.answer_transform = answer_transform\n\n @classmethod\n def from_frame(\n cls,\n args,\n df,\n tokenizer,\n test=False,\n title_transform=None,\n body_transform=None,\n answer_transform=None,\n ):\n return cls(\n args,\n df,\n tokenizer,\n test=test,\n title_transform=title_transform,\n body_transform=body_transform,\n answer_transform=answer_transform,\n )\n\n def __getitem__(self, idx):\n instance = self.data[idx : idx + 1].copy()\n\n for col, transform in zip(\n [\"question_title\", \"question_body\", \"answer\"],\n [self.title_transform, self.body_transform, self.answer_transform],\n ):\n if transform is not None:\n instance[col] = transform[col]\n\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments = compute_input_arrays(\n self.params,\n instance,\n self.params.input_columns,\n self.tokenizer,\n max_sequence_length=self.params.max_sequence_length,\n t_max_len=self.params.max_title_length,\n q_max_len=self.params.max_question_length,\n a_max_len=self.params.max_answer_length,\n verbose=False,\n )\n length = torch.sum(input_masks != 0)\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments = (\n torch.squeeze(input_ids, dim=0),\n torch.squeeze(input_masks, dim=0),\n torch.squeeze(input_segments, dim=0),\n )\n\n if not self.is_test:\n labels = compute_output_arrays(instance, self.params.target_columns)\n labels = torch.tensor(labels, dtype=torch.float32)\n labels = torch.squeeze(labels, dim=0)\n return input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels, length\n else:\n return input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, length\n\n def __len__(self):\n return len(self.data)\n\n\ndef cross_validation_split(args, train_df, tokenizer, ignore_train=False):\n kf = GroupKFold(n_splits=args.folds)\n y_train = train_df[args.target_columns].values\n\n for fold, (train_index, val_index) in enumerate(\n kf.split(train_df.values, groups=train_df.question_title)\n ):\n\n if args.use_folds is not None and fold not in args.use_folds:\n continue\n\n if not ignore_train:\n train_subdf = train_df.iloc[train_index]\n train_set = QuestDataset.from_frame(args, train_subdf, tokenizer)\n else:\n train_set = None\n\n valid_set = QuestDataset.from_frame(args, train_df.iloc[val_index], tokenizer)\n\n yield (\n fold,\n train_set,\n valid_set,\n train_df.iloc[train_index],\n train_df.iloc[val_index],\n )\n\n\ndef get_pseudo_set(args, pseudo_df, tokenizer):\n return QuestDataset.from_frame(args, pseudo_df, tokenizer)\n\n\ndef get_test_set(args, test_df, tokenizer):\n return QuestDataset.from_frame(args, test_df, tokenizer, True)\n" }, { "path": "step5_model3_roberta_code/evaluation.py", "content": "from scipy.stats import spearmanr\nimport numpy as np\nfrom misc import target_columns\n\n\ndef target_metric(prediction, actual):\n\n prediction = prediction.sort_values(by=\"qa_id\").reset_index(drop=True)\n actual = actual.sort_values(by=\"qa_id\").reset_index(drop=True)\n\n assert (prediction.qa_id == actual.qa_id).all()\n\n score = 0\n for col in target_columns:\n score += np.nan_to_num(\n spearmanr(prediction[col], actual[col]).correlation\n ) / len(target_columns)\n return score\n" }, { "path": "step5_model3_roberta_code/infer.py", "content": "import argparse\nimport logging\nimport os\nimport mag\nimport numpy as np\nimport pandas as pd\nimport torch\nfrom dataset import get_test_set\nfrom loops import infer\nfrom mag.experiment import Experiment\nfrom misc import target_columns, input_columns\nfrom model import get_model_optimizer\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader\nfrom transformers import BertTokenizer, RobertaTokenizer\n\nmag.use_custom_separator(\"-\")\n\nparser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--experiment\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--checkpoint\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--bert_model\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--dataframe\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--output_dir\", type=str, required=True)\n\nargs = parser.parse_args()\n\nexperiment = Experiment(resume_from=args.experiment)\nconfig = experiment.config\n\nlogging.getLogger(\"transformers\").setLevel(logging.ERROR)\n\ntest_df = pd.read_csv(args.dataframe)\n\noriginal_args = argparse.Namespace(\n folds=config.folds,\n lr=config.lr,\n batch_size=config.batch_size,\n seed=config._seed,\n bert_model=config._bert_model,\n num_classes=30,\n target_columns=target_columns,\n input_columns=input_columns,\n # old models didn't have those parameters in their configs\n max_sequence_length=getattr(config, \"max_sequence_length\", 500),\n max_title_length=getattr(config, \"max_title_length\", 26),\n max_question_length=getattr(config, \"max_question_length\", 260),\n max_answer_length=getattr(config, \"max_answer_length\", 210),\n head_tail=getattr(config, \"head_tail\", True),\n use_folds=None,\n model_type=config.model_type,\n)\n\nif original_args.model_type == \"bert\":\n tokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained(\n original_args.bert_model, do_lower_case=(\"uncased\" in args.bert_model)\n )\nelif original_args.model_type == \"roberta\":\n tokenizer = RobertaTokenizer.from_pretrained(original_args.bert_model)\n\ntest_set = get_test_set(original_args, test_df, tokenizer)\ntest_loader = DataLoader(test_set, batch_size=original_args.batch_size, shuffle=False)\n\nif not os.path.exists(args.output_dir):\n os.makedirs(args.output_dir)\n\nfor fold in range(config.folds):\n\n print()\n print(\"Fold:\", fold)\n print()\n\n fold_checkpoints = os.path.join(experiment.checkpoints, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n\n model, optimizer = get_model_optimizer(original_args)\n\n checkpoint = os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, args.checkpoint)\n\n state_dict = torch.load(checkpoint)\n model.load_state_dict(state_dict)\n del state_dict\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n test_preds = infer(original_args, model, test_loader, test_shape=len(test_set))\n\n test_preds_df = test_df[[\"qa_id\"]].copy()\n for k, col in enumerate(target_columns):\n test_preds_df[col] = test_preds[:, k].astype(np.float32)\n test_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(args.output_dir, \"fold-{}.csv\".format(fold)), index=False,\n )\n\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n" }, { "path": "step5_model3_roberta_code/loops.py", "content": "import gc\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nfrom scipy.stats import spearmanr\nfrom tqdm import tqdm\n\n\ndef train_loop(model, train_loader, optimizer, criterion, scheduler, args, iteration):\n model.train()\n\n avg_loss = 0.0\n\n optimizer.zero_grad()\n for idx, batch in enumerate(tqdm(train_loader, desc=\"Train\", ncols=80)):\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels, _ = batch\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels = (\n input_ids.cuda(),\n input_masks.cuda(),\n input_segments.cuda(),\n labels.cuda(),\n )\n\n logits = model(\n input_ids=input_ids.long(),\n attention_mask=input_masks,\n token_type_ids=input_segments,\n )\n loss = criterion(logits, labels)\n\n loss.backward()\n if (iteration + 1) % args.batch_accumulation == 0:\n optimizer.step()\n scheduler.step()\n optimizer.zero_grad()\n iteration += 1\n\n avg_loss += loss.item() / (len(train_loader) * args.batch_accumulation)\n\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n gc.collect()\n return (avg_loss, iteration)\n\n\ndef evaluate(args, model, val_loader, criterion, val_shape):\n avg_val_loss = 0.0\n model.eval()\n\n valid_preds = np.zeros((val_shape, args.num_classes))\n original = np.zeros((val_shape, args.num_classes))\n\n with torch.no_grad():\n for idx, batch in enumerate(tqdm(val_loader, desc=\"Valid\", ncols=80)):\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels, _ = batch\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels = (\n input_ids.cuda(),\n input_masks.cuda(),\n input_segments.cuda(),\n labels.cuda(),\n )\n\n logits = model(\n input_ids=input_ids.long(),\n attention_mask=input_masks,\n token_type_ids=input_segments,\n )\n\n avg_val_loss += criterion(logits, labels).item() / len(val_loader)\n valid_preds[idx * args.batch_size : (idx + 1) * args.batch_size] = (\n logits.detach().cpu().squeeze().numpy()\n )\n original[idx * args.batch_size : (idx + 1) * args.batch_size] = (\n labels.detach().cpu().squeeze().numpy()\n )\n\n score = 0\n preds = torch.sigmoid(torch.tensor(valid_preds)).numpy()\n\n for i in range(len(args.target_columns)):\n score += np.nan_to_num(spearmanr(original[:, i], preds[:, i]).correlation)\n\n return avg_val_loss, score / len(args.target_columns), preds\n\n\ndef infer(args, model, test_loader, test_shape):\n test_preds = np.zeros((test_shape, args.num_classes))\n model.eval()\n\n for idx, x_batch in enumerate(tqdm(test_loader, desc=\"Test\", ncols=80)):\n with torch.no_grad():\n predictions = model(\n input_ids=x_batch[0].cuda(),\n attention_mask=x_batch[1].cuda(),\n token_type_ids=x_batch[2].cuda(),\n )\n test_preds[idx * args.batch_size : (idx + 1) * args.batch_size] = (\n predictions.detach().cpu().squeeze().numpy()\n )\n\n output = torch.sigmoid(torch.tensor(test_preds)).numpy()\n return output\n" }, { "path": "step5_model3_roberta_code/misc.py", "content": "target_columns = [\n \"question_asker_intent_understanding\",\n \"question_body_critical\",\n \"question_conversational\",\n \"question_expect_short_answer\",\n \"question_fact_seeking\",\n \"question_has_commonly_accepted_answer\",\n \"question_interestingness_others\",\n \"question_interestingness_self\",\n \"question_multi_intent\",\n \"question_not_really_a_question\",\n \"question_opinion_seeking\",\n \"question_type_choice\",\n \"question_type_compare\",\n \"question_type_consequence\",\n \"question_type_definition\",\n \"question_type_entity\",\n \"question_type_instructions\",\n \"question_type_procedure\",\n \"question_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"question_type_spelling\",\n \"question_well_written\",\n \"answer_helpful\",\n \"answer_level_of_information\",\n \"answer_plausible\",\n \"answer_relevance\",\n \"answer_satisfaction\",\n \"answer_type_instructions\",\n \"answer_type_procedure\",\n \"answer_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"answer_well_written\",\n]\n\ninput_columns = [\"question_title\", \"question_body\", \"answer\"]\n" }, { "path": "step5_model3_roberta_code/model.py", "content": "import logging\nfrom transformers import BertModel, RobertaModel\nfrom transformers.modeling_bert import BertPreTrainedModel\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\n\nlogging.getLogger(\"transformers\").setLevel(logging.ERROR)\n\n\nclass Squeeze(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, dim):\n super().__init__()\n self.dim = dim\n\n def forward(self, x):\n return x.squeeze(self.dim)\n\n\nclass CustomBert(BertPreTrainedModel):\n def __init__(self, config):\n config.output_hidden_states = True\n super(CustomBert, self).__init__(config)\n self.num_labels = config.num_labels\n self.bert = BertModel(config)\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(p=0.2)\n self.high_dropout = nn.Dropout(p=0.5)\n\n n_weights = config.num_hidden_layers + 1\n weights_init = torch.zeros(n_weights).float()\n weights_init.data[:-1] = -3\n self.layer_weights = torch.nn.Parameter(weights_init)\n\n self.classifier = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, self.config.num_labels)\n\n self.init_weights()\n\n def forward(\n self,\n input_ids=None,\n attention_mask=None,\n token_type_ids=None,\n position_ids=None,\n head_mask=None,\n inputs_embeds=None,\n ):\n outputs = self.bert(\n input_ids,\n attention_mask=attention_mask,\n token_type_ids=token_type_ids,\n position_ids=position_ids,\n head_mask=head_mask,\n inputs_embeds=inputs_embeds,\n )\n\n hidden_layers = outputs[2]\n\n cls_outputs = torch.stack(\n [self.dropout(layer[:, 0, :]) for layer in hidden_layers], dim=2\n )\n cls_output = (torch.softmax(self.layer_weights, dim=0) * cls_outputs).sum(-1)\n\n # multisample dropout (wut): https://arxiv.org/abs/1905.09788\n logits = torch.mean(\n torch.stack(\n [self.classifier(self.high_dropout(cls_output)) for _ in range(5)],\n dim=0,\n ),\n dim=0,\n )\n\n outputs = logits\n return outputs\n\n\nclass CustomRoberta(BertPreTrainedModel):\n def __init__(self, config):\n config.output_hidden_states = True\n super(CustomRoberta, self).__init__(config)\n self.num_labels = config.num_labels\n self.roberta = RobertaModel(config)\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(p=0.2)\n self.high_dropout = nn.Dropout(p=0.5)\n\n n_weights = config.num_hidden_layers + 1\n weights_init = torch.zeros(n_weights).float()\n weights_init.data[:-1] = -3\n self.layer_weights = torch.nn.Parameter(weights_init)\n\n self.classifier = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, self.config.num_labels)\n\n self.init_weights()\n\n def forward(\n self,\n input_ids=None,\n attention_mask=None,\n token_type_ids=None,\n position_ids=None,\n head_mask=None,\n inputs_embeds=None,\n ):\n token_type_ids = torch.zeros_like(token_type_ids)\n outputs = self.roberta(\n input_ids,\n attention_mask=attention_mask,\n token_type_ids=token_type_ids,\n position_ids=position_ids,\n head_mask=head_mask,\n inputs_embeds=inputs_embeds,\n )\n\n hidden_layers = outputs[2]\n\n cls_outputs = torch.stack(\n [self.dropout(layer[:, 0, :]) for layer in hidden_layers], dim=2\n )\n cls_output = (torch.softmax(self.layer_weights, dim=0) * cls_outputs).sum(-1)\n\n # multisample dropout (wut): https://arxiv.org/abs/1905.09788\n logits = torch.mean(\n torch.stack(\n [self.classifier(self.high_dropout(cls_output)) for _ in range(5)],\n dim=0,\n ),\n dim=0,\n )\n\n outputs = logits\n return outputs\n\n\ndef get_model_optimizer(args):\n if args.model_type == \"bert\":\n model = CustomBert.from_pretrained(args.bert_model, num_labels=args.num_classes)\n prefix = \"bert\"\n elif args.model_type == \"roberta\":\n model = CustomRoberta.from_pretrained(\n args.bert_model, num_labels=args.num_classes\n )\n prefix = \"roberta\"\n else:\n raise ValueError(\"Wrong model_type {}\".format(args.model_type))\n\n model.cuda()\n model = nn.DataParallel(model)\n params = list(model.named_parameters())\n\n def is_backbone(n):\n return prefix in n\n\n optimizer_grouped_parameters = [\n {\"params\": [p for n, p in params if is_backbone(n)], \"lr\": args.lr},\n {\"params\": [p for n, p in params if not is_backbone(n)], \"lr\": args.lr * 500},\n ]\n\n optimizer = torch.optim.AdamW(\n optimizer_grouped_parameters, lr=args.lr, weight_decay=0\n )\n\n return model, optimizer\n" }, { "path": "step5_model3_roberta_code/run.py", "content": "import csv\nimport logging\nimport os\nimport random\nimport warnings\n\nimport mag\nimport numpy as np\nimport pandas as pd\nimport torch\nfrom args import args\nfrom dataset import cross_validation_split, get_test_set, get_pseudo_set\nfrom loops import train_loop, evaluate, infer\nfrom mag.experiment import Experiment\nfrom model import get_model_optimizer\nfrom torch import nn\nfrom torch.utils.data import ConcatDataset\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader\nfrom transformers import BertTokenizer\nfrom transformers import get_linear_schedule_with_warmup, RobertaTokenizer\n\nmag.use_custom_separator(\"-\")\nwarnings.filterwarnings(\"ignore\")\n\nconfig = {\n \"_seed\": args.seed,\n \"_bert_model\": args.bert_model,\n \"batch_accumulation\": args.batch_accumulation,\n \"batch_size\": args.batch_size,\n \"warmup\": args.warmup,\n \"lr\": args.lr,\n \"folds\": args.folds,\n \"max_sequence_length\": args.max_sequence_length,\n \"max_title_length\": args.max_title_length,\n \"max_question_length\": args.max_question_length,\n \"max_answer_length\": args.max_answer_length,\n \"head_tail\": args.head_tail,\n \"label\": args.label,\n \"_pseudo_file\": args.pseudo_file,\n \"model_type\": args.model_type,\n}\nexperiment = Experiment(config, implicit_resuming=args.use_folds is not None)\nexperiment.register_directory(\"checkpoints\")\nexperiment.register_directory(\"predictions\")\n\n\ndef seed_everything(seed: int):\n random.seed(seed)\n os.environ[\"PYTHONHASHSEED\"] = str(seed)\n np.random.seed(seed)\n torch.manual_seed(seed)\n torch.cuda.manual_seed(seed)\n torch.backends.cudnn.deterministic = True\n\n\nlogging.getLogger(\"transformers\").setLevel(logging.ERROR)\nseed_everything(args.seed)\n# load the data\ntrain_df = pd.read_csv(\n os.path.join(\n args.data_path, \"train_toy.csv\" if args.toy in [\"True\", \"toy\"] else \"train.csv\"\n )\n)\ntest_df = pd.read_csv(\n os.path.join(\n args.data_path, \"test_toy.csv\" if args.toy in [\"True\", \"toy\"] else \"test.csv\"\n )\n)\nsubmission = pd.read_csv(\n os.path.join(\n args.data_path,\n \"sample_submission_toy.csv\"\n if args.toy in [\"True\", \"toy\"]\n else \"sample_submission.csv\",\n )\n)\n\nif args.model_type == \"bert\":\n tokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained(\n args.bert_model, do_lower_case=(\"uncased\" in args.bert_model)\n )\nelif args.model_type == \"roberta\":\n tokenizer = RobertaTokenizer.from_pretrained(\"roberta-base\")\n\ntest_set = get_test_set(args, test_df, tokenizer)\ntest_loader = DataLoader(test_set, batch_size=args.batch_size, shuffle=False)\n\nfor fold, train_set, valid_set, train_fold_df, val_fold_df in cross_validation_split(\n args, train_df, tokenizer\n):\n\n print()\n print(\"Fold:\", fold)\n print()\n\n valid_loader = DataLoader(\n valid_set, batch_size=args.batch_size, shuffle=False, drop_last=False\n )\n\n fold_checkpoints = os.path.join(experiment.checkpoints, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n fold_predictions = os.path.join(experiment.predictions, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n\n os.makedirs(fold_checkpoints, exist_ok=True)\n os.makedirs(fold_predictions, exist_ok=True)\n\n log_file = os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, \"training_log.csv\")\n\n with open(log_file, \"w\") as csvfile:\n writer = csv.writer(csvfile)\n writer.writerow([\"epoch\", \"loss\", \"val_loss\", \"score\"])\n\n iteration = 0\n best_score = -1.0\n\n model, optimizer = get_model_optimizer(args)\n criterion = nn.BCEWithLogitsLoss()\n\n for epoch in range(args.epochs):\n\n epoch_train_set = train_set\n\n if args.pseudo_file is not None:\n pseudo_df = pd.read_csv(args.pseudo_file.format(fold))\n\n pseudo_set = get_pseudo_set(\n args, pseudo_df.sample(args.n_pseudo), tokenizer\n )\n\n epoch_train_set = ConcatDataset([epoch_train_set, pseudo_set])\n\n train_loader = DataLoader(\n epoch_train_set,\n batch_size=args.batch_size,\n num_workers=args.workers,\n drop_last=True,\n shuffle=True,\n )\n\n scheduler = get_linear_schedule_with_warmup(\n optimizer,\n num_warmup_steps=args.warmup,\n num_training_steps=(\n args.epochs * len(train_loader) / args.batch_accumulation\n ),\n )\n\n avg_loss, iteration = train_loop(\n model, train_loader, optimizer, criterion, scheduler, args, iteration,\n )\n\n avg_val_loss, score, val_preds = evaluate(\n args, model, valid_loader, criterion, val_shape=len(valid_set)\n )\n\n print(\n \"Epoch {}/{}: \\t loss={:.4f} \\t val_loss={:.4f} \\t score={:.6f}\".format(\n epoch + 1, args.epochs, avg_loss, avg_val_loss, score\n )\n )\n with open(log_file, \"a\") as csvfile:\n writer = csv.writer(csvfile)\n writer.writerow([epoch + 1, avg_loss, avg_val_loss, score])\n\n torch.save(\n model.state_dict(),\n os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, \"model_on_epoch_{}.pth\".format(epoch)),\n )\n val_preds_df = val_fold_df.copy()[[\"qa_id\"] + args.target_columns]\n val_preds_df[args.target_columns] = val_preds\n val_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(fold_predictions, \"val_on_epoch_{}.csv\".format(epoch)),\n index=False,\n )\n\n test_preds = infer(args, model, test_loader, test_shape=len(test_set))\n test_preds_df = submission.copy()\n test_preds_df[args.target_columns] = test_preds\n test_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(fold_predictions, \"test_on_epoch_{}.csv\".format(epoch)),\n index=False,\n )\n\n if score > best_score:\n best_score = score\n torch.save(\n model.state_dict(), os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, \"best_model.pth\"),\n )\n val_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(fold_predictions, \"best_val.csv\"), index=False\n )\n test_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(fold_predictions, \"best_test.csv\"), index=False\n )\n\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n print()\n\nbest_val_df_files = [\n os.path.join(experiment.predictions, \"fold{}\".format(fold), \"best_val.csv\")\n for fold in range(args.folds)\n]\n\nif all(os.path.isfile(file) for file in best_val_df_files):\n best_val_dfs = [pd.read_csv(file) for file in best_val_df_files]\n # create oof df only if all folds were used\n oof_df = pd.concat(best_val_dfs).reset_index(drop=True)\n oof_df.to_csv(os.path.join(experiment.predictions, \"oof.csv\"), index=False)\n" }, { "path": "step6_model4_bart_code/apply_swa.py", "content": "import os\nimport argparse\nimport logging\n\nfrom mag.experiment import Experiment\nimport mag\nimport pandas as pd\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom model import get_model_optimizer\nfrom loops import train_loop, evaluate, infer\nfrom dataset import cross_validation_split, get_test_set\nfrom transformers import BertTokenizer, AlbertTokenizer\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader, Dataset\nfrom evaluation import target_metric\nfrom misc import target_columns, input_columns\n\nmag.use_custom_separator(\"-\")\n\nparser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--experiment\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--epochs\", type=int, nargs=\"+\", required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--data_path\", type=str, required=True)\n\nargs = parser.parse_args()\n\nexperiment = Experiment(resume_from=args.experiment)\nconfig = experiment.config\n\nlogging.getLogger(\"transformers\").setLevel(logging.ERROR)\n\ntrain_df = pd.read_csv(os.path.join(args.data_path, \"train.csv\"))\ntest_df = pd.read_csv(os.path.join(args.data_path, \"test.csv\"))\nsubmission = pd.read_csv(os.path.join(args.data_path, \"sample_submission.csv\"))\n\noriginal_args = argparse.Namespace(\n folds=config.folds,\n lr=config.lr,\n batch_size=config.batch_size,\n seed=config._seed,\n bert_model=config.bert_model.replace(\"_\", \"-\"),\n num_classes=30,\n target_columns=target_columns,\n input_columns=input_columns,\n # old models didn't have those parameters in their configs\n max_sequence_length=getattr(config, \"max_sequence_length\", 500),\n max_title_length=getattr(config, \"max_title_length\", 26),\n max_question_length=getattr(config, \"max_question_length\", 260),\n max_answer_length=getattr(config, \"max_answer_length\", 210),\n head_tail=getattr(config, \"head_tail\", True),\n)\n\ntokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained(original_args.bert_model, do_lower_case=True)\n\ntest_set = get_test_set(original_args, test_df, tokenizer)\ntest_loader = DataLoader(test_set, batch_size=original_args.batch_size, shuffle=False)\n\nval_dfs = []\n\nfor fold, (train_set, valid_set, train_fold_df, val_fold_df) in enumerate(\n cross_validation_split(original_args, train_df, tokenizer, ignore_train=True)\n):\n\n print()\n print(\"Fold:\", fold)\n print()\n\n valid_loader = DataLoader(\n valid_set, batch_size=original_args.batch_size, shuffle=False, drop_last=False,\n )\n\n fold_checkpoints = os.path.join(experiment.checkpoints, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n fold_predictions = os.path.join(experiment.predictions, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n\n criterion = nn.BCEWithLogitsLoss()\n model, optimizer = get_model_optimizer(original_args)\n\n checkpoint = os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, \"model_on_epoch_{}.pth\")\n\n state_dicts = [torch.load(checkpoint.format(epoch)) for epoch in args.epochs]\n averaged_state_dict = state_dicts[0]\n for k in averaged_state_dict:\n averaged_state_dict[k] = torch.mean(\n torch.stack([state_dict[k] for state_dict in state_dicts], dim=0), dim=0,\n )\n\n torch.save(\n averaged_state_dict,\n os.path.join(\n fold_checkpoints, \"swa_{}.pth\".format(\"_\".join(map(str, args.epochs))),\n ),\n )\n\n model.load_state_dict(averaged_state_dict)\n\n del state_dicts\n del averaged_state_dict\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n avg_val_loss, score, val_preds = evaluate(\n original_args, model, valid_loader, criterion, val_shape=len(valid_set)\n )\n\n print(\"Fold {} score: {}\".format(fold, score))\n\n val_preds_df = val_fold_df.copy()[[\"qa_id\"] + target_columns]\n val_preds_df[target_columns] = val_preds\n val_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(\n fold_predictions, \"val_swa_{}.csv\".format(\"_\".join(map(str, args.epochs))),\n ),\n index=False,\n )\n\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n val_dfs.append(val_preds_df)\n\n test_preds = infer(original_args, model, test_loader, test_shape=len(test_set))\n test_preds_df = submission.copy()\n test_preds_df[target_columns] = test_preds\n test_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(\n fold_predictions, \"test_swa_{}.csv\".format(\"_\".join(map(str, args.epochs))),\n ),\n index=False,\n )\n\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n print()\n\n\noof_df = pd.concat(val_dfs).reset_index(drop=True)\noof_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(\n experiment.predictions,\n \"oof_swa_{}.csv\".format(\"_\".join(map(str, args.epochs))),\n ),\n index=False,\n)\n\nprint(\"Final metric:\", target_metric(oof_df, train_df))\n" }, { "path": "step6_model4_bart_code/args.py", "content": "import argparse\n\nparser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--data_path\", type=str, default=\"../input/\")\nparser.add_argument(\n \"--toy\", type=str, default=\"False\", help=\"Whether to run with a toy example\"\n)\nparser.add_argument(\"--pseudo_file\", type=str)\nparser.add_argument(\"--split_pseudo\", action=\"store_true\", default=False)\nparser.add_argument(\"--leak_free_pseudo\", action=\"store_true\", default=False)\nparser.add_argument(\"--seed\", type=int, default=42)\nparser.add_argument(\"--folds\", type=int, default=5)\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--label\", type=str, default=\"qa\")\nparser.add_argument(\"--bert_model\", type=str, default=\"bert-large-uncased\")\nparser.add_argument(\"--batch_size\", type=int, default=8)\nparser.add_argument(\"--batch_accumulation\", type=int, default=4)\nparser.add_argument(\"--epochs\", type=int, default=5)\nparser.add_argument(\"--lr\", type=float, default=2e-5)\nparser.add_argument(\"--warmup\", type=int, default=200)\n\n# loss\nparser.add_argument(\"--num_classes\", type=int, default=30)\nparser.add_argument(\"--workers\", type=int, default=8)\n\n# tokenization\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_sequence_length\", type=int, default=290)\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_title_length\", type=int, default=30)\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_question_length\", type=int, default=128)\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_answer_length\", type=int, default=128)\nparser.add_argument(\"--head_tail\", type=str, default=\"True\")\n\n# infer\nparser.add_argument(\"--sub_file\", type=str, default=\"submission.csv\")\n\nargs = parser.parse_args()\n\nfor arg in [\"head_tail\"]:\n args.__dict__[arg] = args.__dict__[arg] == \"True\"\n\nfor arg in [\"lr\"]:\n args.__dict__[arg] = float(args.__dict__[arg])\nprint(\"Initial arguments\", args)\n\nargs.__dict__[\"input_columns\"] = [\"question_title\", \"question_body\", \"answer\"]\nargs.__dict__[\"target_columns\"] = [\n \"question_asker_intent_understanding\",\n \"question_body_critical\",\n \"question_conversational\",\n \"question_expect_short_answer\",\n \"question_fact_seeking\",\n \"question_has_commonly_accepted_answer\",\n \"question_interestingness_others\",\n \"question_interestingness_self\",\n \"question_multi_intent\",\n \"question_not_really_a_question\",\n \"question_opinion_seeking\",\n \"question_type_choice\",\n \"question_type_compare\",\n \"question_type_consequence\",\n \"question_type_definition\",\n \"question_type_entity\",\n \"question_type_instructions\",\n \"question_type_procedure\",\n \"question_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"question_type_spelling\",\n \"question_well_written\",\n \"answer_helpful\",\n \"answer_level_of_information\",\n \"answer_plausible\",\n \"answer_relevance\",\n \"answer_satisfaction\",\n \"answer_type_instructions\",\n \"answer_type_procedure\",\n \"answer_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"answer_well_written\",\n]\n" }, { "path": "step6_model4_bart_code/dataset.py", "content": "from math import floor, ceil\n\nimport torch\nfrom sklearn.model_selection import GroupKFold, KFold\nimport numpy as np\nimport pandas as pd\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader, Dataset\nfrom tqdm import tqdm\nimport html\n\nBOS = 0\nPAD = 1\nEOS = 2\n\n\ndef _get_ids(tokens, tokenizer, max_seq_length):\n \"\"\"Token ids from Tokenizer vocab\"\"\"\n\n input_ids = tokens + [PAD] * (max_seq_length - len(tokens))\n return input_ids\n\n\ndef _trim_input(\n args,\n tokenizer,\n title,\n question,\n answer,\n max_sequence_length=290,\n t_max_len=30,\n q_max_len=128,\n a_max_len=128,\n):\n # SICK THIS IS ALL SEEMS TO BE SICK\n\n t = tokenizer.encode(title)[1:-1].tolist()\n q = tokenizer.encode(question)[1:-1].tolist()\n a = tokenizer.encode(answer)[1:-1].tolist()\n\n t_len = len(t)\n q_len = len(q)\n a_len = len(a)\n\n if (t_len + q_len + a_len + 4) > max_sequence_length:\n\n if t_max_len > t_len:\n t_new_len = t_len\n a_max_len = a_max_len + floor((t_max_len - t_len) / 2)\n q_max_len = q_max_len + ceil((t_max_len - t_len) / 2)\n else:\n t_new_len = t_max_len\n\n if a_max_len > a_len:\n a_new_len = a_len\n q_new_len = q_max_len + (a_max_len - a_len)\n elif q_max_len > q_len:\n a_new_len = a_max_len + (q_max_len - q_len)\n q_new_len = q_len\n else:\n a_new_len = a_max_len\n q_new_len = q_max_len\n\n if t_new_len + a_new_len + q_new_len + 4 != max_sequence_length:\n raise ValueError(\n \"New sequence length should be %d, but is %d\"\n % (max_sequence_length, (t_new_len + a_new_len + q_new_len + 4))\n )\n q_len_head = round(q_new_len / 2)\n q_len_tail = -1 * (q_new_len - q_len_head)\n a_len_head = round(a_new_len / 2)\n a_len_tail = -1 * (a_new_len - a_len_head) ## Head+Tail method .\n t = t[:t_new_len]\n if args.head_tail:\n q = q[:q_len_head] + q[q_len_tail:]\n a = a[:a_len_head] + a[a_len_tail:]\n else:\n q = q[:q_new_len]\n a = a[:a_new_len] ## No Head+Tail ,usual processing\n\n return t, q, a\n\n\ndef _convert_to_bert_inputs(title, question, answer, tokenizer, max_sequence_length):\n \"\"\"Converts tokenized input to ids, masks and segments for BERT\"\"\"\n\n stoken = [BOS] + title + [EOS] + question + [EOS] + answer + [EOS]\n\n input_ids = _get_ids(stoken, tokenizer, max_sequence_length)\n\n return input_ids\n\n\ndef compute_input_arays(\n args,\n df,\n columns,\n tokenizer,\n max_sequence_length,\n t_max_len=30,\n q_max_len=128,\n a_max_len=128,\n):\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments = [], [], []\n\n for col in [\"question_title\", \"question_body\", \"answer\"]:\n df[col] = df[col].apply(html.unescape)\n\n for _, instance in tqdm(\n df[columns].iterrows(), desc=\"Preparing dataset\", total=len(df), ncols=80,\n ):\n t, q, a = (\n instance.question_title,\n instance.question_body,\n instance.answer,\n )\n t, q, a = _trim_input(\n args,\n tokenizer,\n t,\n q,\n a,\n max_sequence_length,\n t_max_len,\n q_max_len,\n a_max_len,\n )\n ids = _convert_to_bert_inputs(t, q, a, tokenizer, max_sequence_length)\n\n input_ids.append(ids)\n\n return torch.from_numpy(np.asarray(input_ids, dtype=np.int32)).long()\n\n\ndef compute_output_arrays(df, columns):\n return np.asarray(df[columns])\n\n\nclass QuestDataset(torch.utils.data.Dataset):\n def __init__(self, inputs, lengths, labels=None):\n self.inputs = inputs\n self.labels = labels\n self.lengths = lengths\n\n @classmethod\n def from_frame(cls, args, df, tokenizer, test=False):\n \"\"\" here I put major preprocessing. why not lol\n \"\"\"\n inputs = compute_input_arays(\n args,\n df,\n args.input_columns,\n tokenizer,\n max_sequence_length=args.max_sequence_length,\n t_max_len=args.max_title_length,\n q_max_len=args.max_question_length,\n a_max_len=args.max_answer_length,\n )\n\n outputs = None\n if not test:\n outputs = compute_output_arrays(df, args.target_columns)\n outputs = torch.tensor(outputs, dtype=torch.float32)\n\n lengths = np.argmax(inputs == 0, axis=1)\n lengths[lengths == 0] = inputs.shape[1]\n\n return cls(inputs=inputs, lengths=lengths, labels=outputs)\n\n def __len__(self):\n return len(self.inputs)\n\n def __getitem__(self, idx):\n input_ids = self.inputs[idx]\n lengths = self.lengths[idx]\n\n if self.labels is not None:\n labels = self.labels[idx]\n return input_ids, labels, lengths\n\n return input_ids, lengths\n\n\ndef cross_validation_split(\n args, train_df, tokenizer, ignore_train=False, pseudo_df=None, split_pseudo=False,\n):\n kf = GroupKFold(n_splits=args.folds)\n y_train = train_df[args.target_columns].values\n\n leak_free_pseudo = isinstance(pseudo_df, list)\n\n if pseudo_df is not None:\n\n if leak_free_pseudo:\n n_pseudo = len(pseudo_df[0])\n else:\n n_pseudo = len(pseudo_df)\n\n if split_pseudo:\n pseudo_kfold = KFold(args.folds)\n pseudo_ids = iter(pseudo_kfold.split(np.arange(n_pseudo)))\n else:\n pseudo_ids = iter(\n [(np.arange(len(np.pseudo)), np.arange(len(n_pseudo)))] * args.folds\n )\n\n for fold, (train_index, val_index) in enumerate(\n kf.split(train_df.values, groups=train_df.question_title)\n ):\n if not ignore_train:\n train_subdf = train_df.iloc[train_index]\n\n if pseudo_df is not None:\n pseudo_train, pseudo_valid = next(pseudo_ids)\n\n pseudo_subdf = pseudo_df if not leak_free_pseudo else pseudo_df[fold]\n\n pseudo_subdf = pseudo_subdf.iloc[pseudo_valid]\n train_subdf = pd.concat([train_subdf, pseudo_subdf], sort=True)\n\n train_set = QuestDataset.from_frame(args, train_subdf, tokenizer)\n else:\n train_set = None\n valid_set = QuestDataset.from_frame(args, train_df.iloc[val_index], tokenizer)\n\n yield (\n train_set,\n valid_set,\n train_df.iloc[train_index],\n train_df.iloc[val_index],\n )\n\n\ndef get_pseudo_set(args, pseudo_df, tokenizer):\n return QuestDataset.from_frame(args, pseudo_df, tokenizer)\n\n\ndef get_test_set(args, test_df, tokenizer):\n return QuestDataset.from_frame(args, test_df, tokenizer, True)\n" }, { "path": "step6_model4_bart_code/evaluation.py", "content": "import pandas as pd\nfrom scipy.stats import spearmanr\nimport numpy as np\n\nfrom misc import target_columns\n\n\ndef target_metric(prediction, actual):\n\n prediction = prediction.sort_values(by=\"qa_id\").reset_index(drop=True)\n actual = actual.sort_values(by=\"qa_id\").reset_index(drop=True)\n\n assert (prediction.qa_id == actual.qa_id).all()\n\n score = 0\n for col in target_columns:\n score += np.nan_to_num(\n spearmanr(prediction[col], actual[col]).correlation\n ) / len(target_columns)\n return score\n" }, { "path": "step6_model4_bart_code/infer.py", "content": "import os\nimport argparse\nimport logging\n\nfrom mag.experiment import Experiment\nimport mag\nimport pandas as pd\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom model import get_model_optimizer\nfrom loops import train_loop, evaluate, infer\nfrom dataset import cross_validation_split, get_test_set\nfrom transformers import BertTokenizer, AlbertTokenizer\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader, Dataset\nfrom evaluation import target_metric\nfrom misc import target_columns, input_columns\n\nmag.use_custom_separator(\"-\")\n\nparser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--experiment\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--checkpoint\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--dataframe\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--output_dir\", type=str, required=True)\n\nargs = parser.parse_args()\n\nexperiment = Experiment(resume_from=args.experiment)\nconfig = experiment.config\n\nlogging.getLogger(\"transformers\").setLevel(logging.ERROR)\n\ntest_df = pd.read_csv(args.dataframe)\n\noriginal_args = argparse.Namespace(\n folds=config.folds,\n lr=config.lr,\n batch_size=config.batch_size,\n seed=config._seed,\n bert_model=config._bert_model,\n num_classes=30,\n target_columns=target_columns,\n input_columns=input_columns,\n # old models didn't have those parameters in their configs\n max_sequence_length=getattr(config, \"max_sequence_length\", 500),\n max_title_length=getattr(config, \"max_title_length\", 26),\n max_question_length=getattr(config, \"max_question_length\", 260),\n max_answer_length=getattr(config, \"max_answer_length\", 210),\n head_tail=getattr(config, \"head_tail\", True),\n)\n\ntokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained(original_args.bert_model, do_lower_case=True)\n\ntest_set = get_test_set(original_args, test_df, tokenizer)\ntest_loader = DataLoader(test_set, batch_size=original_args.batch_size, shuffle=False)\n\nos.makedirs(args.output_dir)\n\n\nfor fold in range(config.folds):\n\n print()\n print(\"Fold:\", fold)\n print()\n\n fold_checkpoints = os.path.join(experiment.checkpoints, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n\n model, optimizer = get_model_optimizer(original_args)\n\n checkpoint = os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, args.checkpoint)\n\n state_dict = torch.load(checkpoint)\n model.load_state_dict(state_dict)\n del state_dict\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n test_preds = infer(original_args, model, test_loader, test_shape=len(test_set))\n\n test_preds_df = test_df[[\"qa_id\"]].copy()\n for k, col in enumerate(target_columns):\n test_preds_df[col] = test_preds[:, k].astype(np.float32)\n test_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(args.output_dir, \"fold-{}.csv\".format(fold)), index=False,\n )\n\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n" }, { "path": "step6_model4_bart_code/loops.py", "content": "import numpy as np\nimport torch\nimport gc\nfrom scipy.stats import spearmanr\nfrom tqdm import tqdm\n\n\ndef train_loop(model, train_loader, optimizer, criterion, scheduler, args, iteration):\n model.train()\n\n avg_loss = 0.0\n\n optimizer.zero_grad()\n for idx, batch in enumerate(tqdm(train_loader, desc=\"Train\", ncols=80)):\n input_ids, labels, _ = batch\n input_ids, labels = (input_ids.cuda(), labels.cuda())\n\n logits = model(input_ids=input_ids.long())\n loss = criterion(logits, labels)\n\n loss.backward()\n if (iteration + 1) % args.batch_accumulation == 0:\n optimizer.step()\n scheduler.step()\n optimizer.zero_grad()\n iteration += 1\n\n avg_loss += loss.item() / (len(train_loader) * args.batch_accumulation)\n\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n gc.collect()\n return (avg_loss, iteration)\n\n\ndef evaluate(args, model, val_loader, criterion, val_shape):\n avg_val_loss = 0.0\n model.eval()\n\n valid_preds = np.zeros((val_shape, args.num_classes))\n original = np.zeros((val_shape, args.num_classes))\n\n with torch.no_grad():\n for idx, batch in enumerate(tqdm(val_loader, desc=\"Valid\", ncols=80)):\n input_ids, labels, _ = batch\n input_ids, labels = (\n input_ids.cuda(),\n labels.cuda(),\n )\n\n logits = model(input_ids=input_ids.long())\n\n avg_val_loss += criterion(logits, labels).item() / len(val_loader)\n valid_preds[idx * args.batch_size : (idx + 1) * args.batch_size] = (\n logits.detach().cpu().squeeze().numpy()\n )\n original[idx * args.batch_size : (idx + 1) * args.batch_size] = (\n labels.detach().cpu().squeeze().numpy()\n )\n\n score = 0\n preds = torch.sigmoid(torch.tensor(valid_preds)).numpy()\n\n for i in range(len(args.target_columns)):\n score += np.nan_to_num(spearmanr(original[:, i], preds[:, i]).correlation)\n\n return avg_val_loss, score / len(args.target_columns), preds\n\n\ndef infer(args, model, test_loader, test_shape):\n test_preds = np.zeros((test_shape, args.num_classes))\n model.eval()\n\n for idx, x_batch in enumerate(tqdm(test_loader, desc=\"Test\", ncols=80)):\n with torch.no_grad():\n predictions = model(input_ids=x_batch[0].cuda())\n test_preds[idx * args.batch_size : (idx + 1) * args.batch_size] = (\n predictions.detach().cpu().squeeze().numpy()\n )\n\n output = torch.sigmoid(torch.tensor(test_preds)).numpy()\n return output\n" }, { "path": "step6_model4_bart_code/misc.py", "content": "target_columns = [\n \"question_asker_intent_understanding\",\n \"question_body_critical\",\n \"question_conversational\",\n \"question_expect_short_answer\",\n \"question_fact_seeking\",\n \"question_has_commonly_accepted_answer\",\n \"question_interestingness_others\",\n \"question_interestingness_self\",\n \"question_multi_intent\",\n \"question_not_really_a_question\",\n \"question_opinion_seeking\",\n \"question_type_choice\",\n \"question_type_compare\",\n \"question_type_consequence\",\n \"question_type_definition\",\n \"question_type_entity\",\n \"question_type_instructions\",\n \"question_type_procedure\",\n \"question_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"question_type_spelling\",\n \"question_well_written\",\n \"answer_helpful\",\n \"answer_level_of_information\",\n \"answer_plausible\",\n \"answer_relevance\",\n \"answer_satisfaction\",\n \"answer_type_instructions\",\n \"answer_type_procedure\",\n \"answer_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"answer_well_written\",\n]\n\ninput_columns = [\"question_title\", \"question_body\", \"answer\"]\n" }, { "path": "step6_model4_bart_code/model.py", "content": "import logging\nfrom transformers.modeling_bert import BertPreTrainedModel\nfrom transformers import (\n BertTokenizer,\n BertModel,\n BertForSequenceClassification,\n BertConfig,\n AdamW,\n get_linear_schedule_with_warmup,\n get_cosine_schedule_with_warmup,\n)\nfrom fairseq import utils\nfrom fairseq.data import encoders\nfrom fairseq.models.bart import BARTModel\n\nlogging.getLogger(\"transformers\").setLevel(logging.ERROR)\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\nfrom torch import nn\n\n\nclass Squeeze(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, dim):\n super().__init__()\n self.dim = dim\n\n def forward(self, x):\n return x.squeeze(self.dim)\n\n\nclass CustomBART(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, model_name, num_labels, num_hidden_layers=12, hidden_size=1024):\n super(CustomBART, self).__init__()\n self.num_labels = num_labels\n self.bart = BARTModel.from_pretrained(model_name)\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(p=0.2)\n self.high_dropout = nn.Dropout(p=0.5)\n\n n_weights = num_hidden_layers + 1\n weights_init = torch.zeros(n_weights).float()\n weights_init.data[:-1] = -3\n self.layer_weights = torch.nn.Parameter(weights_init)\n self.classifier = nn.Linear(hidden_size, num_labels)\n\n def forward(self, input_ids=None):\n\n hidden_layers = self.bart.extract_features(input_ids, return_all_hiddens=True)\n\n cls_outputs = torch.stack(\n [self.dropout(layer[:, -1, :]) for layer in hidden_layers], dim=2\n )\n cls_output = (torch.softmax(self.layer_weights, dim=0) * cls_outputs).sum(-1)\n\n # multisample dropout (wut): https://arxiv.org/abs/1905.09788\n logits = torch.mean(\n torch.stack(\n [self.classifier(self.high_dropout(cls_output)) for _ in range(5)],\n dim=0,\n ),\n dim=0,\n )\n\n outputs = logits\n # add hidden states and attention if they are here\n\n return outputs # (loss), logits, (hidden_states), (attentions)\n\n\nclass BARTTokenizer:\n @classmethod\n def hub_models(cls):\n return {\n \"bart.large\": \"http://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/bart.large.tar.gz\",\n \"bart.large.mnli\": \"http://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/bart.large.mnli.tar.gz\",\n \"bart.large.cnn\": \"http://dl.fbaipublicfiles.com/fairseq/models/bart.large.cnn.tar.gz\",\n }\n\n def __init__(self, args, task):\n super().__init__()\n self.args = args\n self.task = task\n self.bpe = encoders.build_bpe(args)\n self.max_positions = 1024\n\n def encode(\n self, sentence: str, *addl_sentences, no_separator=True\n ) -> torch.LongTensor:\n \"\"\"\n BPE-encode a sentence (or multiple sentences).\n Every sequence begins with a beginning-of-sentence (`<s>`) symbol.\n Every sentence ends with an end-of-sentence (`</s>`).\n Example (single sentence): `<s> a b c </s>`\n Example (sentence pair): `<s> d e f </s> 1 2 3 </s>`\n The BPE encoding follows GPT-2. One subtle detail is that the GPT-2 BPE\n requires leading spaces. For example::\n >>> bart.encode('Hello world').tolist()\n [0, 31414, 232, 2]\n >>> bart.encode(' world').tolist()\n [0, 232, 2]\n >>> bart.encode('world').tolist()\n [0, 8331, 2]\n \"\"\"\n tokens = self.bpe.encode(sentence)\n if len(tokens.split(\" \")) > self.max_positions - 2:\n tokens = \" \".join(tokens.split(\" \")[: self.max_positions - 2])\n bpe_sentence = \"<s> \" + tokens + \" </s>\"\n for s in addl_sentences:\n bpe_sentence += \" </s>\" if not no_separator else \"\"\n bpe_sentence += \" \" + self.bpe.encode(s) + \" </s>\"\n tokens = self.task.source_dictionary.encode_line(bpe_sentence, append_eos=False)\n return tokens.long()\n\n @classmethod\n def from_pretrained(\n cls,\n model_name_or_path,\n checkpoint_file=\"model.pt\",\n data_name_or_path=\".\",\n bpe=\"gpt2\",\n **kwargs,\n ):\n from fairseq import hub_utils\n\n x = hub_utils.from_pretrained(\n model_name_or_path,\n checkpoint_file,\n data_name_or_path,\n archive_map=cls.hub_models(),\n bpe=bpe,\n load_checkpoint_heads=True,\n **kwargs,\n )\n return cls(x[\"args\"], x[\"task\"])\n\n\ndef get_model_optimizer(args):\n model = CustomBART(args.bert_model, num_labels=args.num_classes)\n model.cuda()\n model = nn.DataParallel(model)\n params = list(model.named_parameters())\n\n def is_backbone(n):\n return \"bart\" in n\n\n optimizer_grouped_parameters = [\n {\"params\": [p for n, p in params if is_backbone(n)], \"lr\": args.lr},\n {\"params\": [p for n, p in params if not is_backbone(n)], \"lr\": args.lr * 500},\n ]\n\n optimizer = torch.optim.AdamW(\n optimizer_grouped_parameters, lr=args.lr, weight_decay=0\n )\n\n return model, optimizer\n" }, { "path": "step6_model4_bart_code/run.py", "content": "import warnings, logging\n\nwarnings.filterwarnings(\"ignore\")\n\nimport random\nimport os, multiprocessing, glob\nimport numpy as np\nimport pandas as pd\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom transformers import get_linear_schedule_with_warmup\nfrom model import get_model_optimizer, BARTTokenizer\nfrom loops import train_loop, evaluate, infer\nfrom dataset import cross_validation_split, get_test_set\nfrom args import args\nfrom transformers import BertTokenizer, AlbertTokenizer\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader, Dataset\n\nfrom mag.experiment import Experiment\nimport mag\nimport gc\n\nmag.use_custom_separator(\"-\")\n\nconfig = {\n \"_seed\": args.seed,\n \"_bert_model\": args.bert_model,\n \"batch_accumulation\": args.batch_accumulation,\n \"batch_size\": args.batch_size,\n \"warmup\": args.warmup,\n \"lr\": args.lr,\n \"folds\": args.folds,\n \"max_sequence_length\": args.max_sequence_length,\n \"max_title_length\": args.max_title_length,\n \"max_question_length\": args.max_question_length,\n \"max_answer_length\": args.max_answer_length,\n \"head_tail\": args.head_tail,\n \"label\": args.label,\n \"split_pseudo\": args.split_pseudo,\n \"_pseudo_file\": args.pseudo_file,\n}\nexperiment = Experiment(config)\nexperiment.register_directory(\"checkpoints\")\nexperiment.register_directory(\"predictions\")\n\n\ndef seed_everything(seed: int):\n random.seed(seed)\n os.environ[\"PYTHONHASHSEED\"] = str(seed)\n np.random.seed(seed)\n torch.manual_seed(seed)\n torch.cuda.manual_seed(seed)\n torch.backends.cudnn.deterministic = True\n\n\nlogging.getLogger(\"transformers\").setLevel(logging.ERROR)\nseed_everything(args.seed)\n\n## load the data\ntrain_df = pd.read_csv(\n os.path.join(\n args.data_path, \"train_toy.csv\" if args.toy in [\"True\", \"toy\"] else \"train.csv\"\n )\n)\ntest_df = pd.read_csv(\n os.path.join(\n args.data_path, \"test_toy.csv\" if args.toy in [\"True\", \"toy\"] else \"test.csv\"\n )\n)\nsubmission = pd.read_csv(\n os.path.join(\n args.data_path,\n \"sample_submission_toy.csv\"\n if args.toy in [\"True\", \"toy\"]\n else \"sample_submission.csv\",\n )\n)\n\nif args.pseudo_file:\n if args.leak_free_pseudo:\n pseudo_df = [\n pd.read_csv(args.pseudo_file.format(fold)) for fold in range(args.folds)\n ]\n else:\n pseudo_df = pd.read_csv(args.pseudo_file)\nelse:\n pseudo_df = None\n\ntokenizer = BARTTokenizer.from_pretrained(args.bert_model)\n\ntest_set = get_test_set(args, test_df, tokenizer)\ntest_loader = DataLoader(test_set, batch_size=args.batch_size, shuffle=False)\n\nbest_val_dfs = []\n\nfor fold, (train_set, valid_set, train_fold_df, val_fold_df) in enumerate(\n cross_validation_split(\n args, train_df, tokenizer, pseudo_df=pseudo_df, split_pseudo=args.split_pseudo,\n )\n):\n\n print()\n print(\"Fold:\", fold)\n print()\n\n train_loader = DataLoader(\n train_set,\n batch_size=args.batch_size,\n num_workers=args.workers,\n drop_last=True,\n shuffle=True,\n )\n valid_loader = DataLoader(\n valid_set, batch_size=args.batch_size, shuffle=False, drop_last=False\n )\n\n fold_checkpoints = os.path.join(experiment.checkpoints, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n fold_predictions = os.path.join(experiment.predictions, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n\n os.makedirs(fold_checkpoints, exist_ok=True)\n os.makedirs(fold_predictions, exist_ok=True)\n\n iteration = 0\n best_score = -1.0\n\n model, optimizer = get_model_optimizer(args)\n criterion = nn.BCEWithLogitsLoss()\n scheduler = get_linear_schedule_with_warmup(\n optimizer,\n num_warmup_steps=args.warmup,\n num_training_steps=(args.epochs * len(train_loader) / args.batch_accumulation),\n )\n\n for epoch in range(args.epochs):\n avg_loss, iteration = train_loop(\n model, train_loader, optimizer, criterion, scheduler, args, iteration,\n )\n avg_val_loss, score, val_preds = evaluate(\n args, model, valid_loader, criterion, val_shape=len(valid_set)\n )\n\n print(\n \"Epoch {}/{}: \\t loss={:.4f} \\t val_loss={:.4f} \\t score={:.6f}\".format(\n epoch + 1, args.epochs, avg_loss, avg_val_loss, score\n )\n )\n\n torch.save(\n model.state_dict(),\n os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, \"model_on_epoch_{}.pth\".format(epoch)),\n )\n val_preds_df = val_fold_df.copy()[[\"qa_id\"] + args.target_columns]\n val_preds_df[args.target_columns] = val_preds\n val_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(fold_predictions, \"val_on_epoch_{}.csv\".format(epoch)),\n index=False,\n )\n\n test_preds = infer(args, model, test_loader, test_shape=len(test_set))\n test_preds_df = submission.copy()\n test_preds_df[args.target_columns] = test_preds\n test_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(fold_predictions, \"test_on_epoch_{}.csv\".format(epoch)),\n index=False,\n )\n\n if score > best_score:\n best_score = score\n torch.save(\n model.state_dict(), os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, \"best_model.pth\"),\n )\n val_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(fold_predictions, \"best_val.csv\"), index=False\n )\n test_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(fold_predictions, \"best_test.csv\"), index=False\n )\n\n del model, optimizer, criterion, scheduler\n del valid_loader, train_loader, valid_set, train_set\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n gc.collect()\n\n best_val_dfs.append(pd.read_csv(os.path.join(fold_predictions, \"best_val.csv\")))\n\n print()\n\noof_df = pd.concat(best_val_dfs).reset_index(drop=True)\noof_df.to_csv(os.path.join(experiment.predictions, \"oof.csv\"), index=False)\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model1_bert_code/callbacks.py", "content": "from poutyne.framework.callbacks import Callback, CSVLogger\n\n\nclass LosswiseSessionHandler:\n def __init__(self, api_key, tag=\"\", params=None):\n import losswise\n\n losswise.set_api_key(api_key)\n self._session = losswise.Session(\n tag=tag, params=params if params is not None else {}, track_git=False\n )\n self._graphs = dict()\n\n def create_graph(\n self, graph_name, xlabel=\"\", ylabel=\"\", kind=None, display_interval=1\n ):\n assert isinstance(graph_name, str)\n if graph_name not in self._graphs:\n self._graphs[graph_name] = self._session.graph(\n title=graph_name,\n xlabel=xlabel,\n ylabel=ylabel,\n kind=kind,\n display_interval=display_interval,\n )\n return self._graphs[graph_name]\n\n def __getitem__(self, graph_name):\n if graph_name not in self._graphs:\n self.create_graph(graph_name)\n return self._graphs[graph_name]\n\n def done(self):\n self._session.done()\n\n\nclass LosswiseCallback(Callback):\n def __init__(\n self,\n api_key: str = None,\n losswise_session: LosswiseSessionHandler = None,\n prefix=\"\",\n tag=\"my awesome DL\",\n period=1,\n keep_open=False,\n training_params=None,\n param_groups=dict(),\n ):\n super().__init__()\n assert (api_key is None) ^ (losswise_session is None)\n\n if losswise_session is None:\n self._session = LosswiseSessionHandler(\n api_key, tag=tag, params=training_params\n )\n else:\n self._session = losswise_session\n self._keep_open = keep_open\n self.period = period\n self.prefix = prefix\n self.param_groups = param_groups\n self.steps_elapsed = 0\n\n def on_train_begin(self, logs):\n self.metrics = [\"loss\"] + self.model.metrics_names\n\n self._session.create_graph(\"loss\", xlabel=\"epoch\", kind=\"min\")\n self._session.create_graph(\"learning rate\", xlabel=\"batch\")\n for name in self.model.metrics_names:\n self._session.create_graph(name, xlabel=\"epoch\")\n self._session.create_graph(\n name + \"_iter\", xlabel=\"batch\", display_interval=self.params[\"steps\"]\n )\n for name in self.param_groups:\n self._session.create_graph(name, xlabel=\"epoch\")\n\n def on_train_end(self, logs):\n if not self._keep_open:\n self._session.done()\n\n def on_epoch_end(self, epoch, logs):\n for name in self.metrics:\n graph_args = dict()\n if name in logs:\n graph_args[self.prefix + name] = logs[name]\n if \"val_\" + name in logs:\n graph_args[self.prefix + \"val_\" + name] = logs[\"val_\" + name]\n self._session[name].append(epoch, graph_args)\n\n for group, names in self.param_groups.items():\n for name in names:\n graph_args = dict()\n if name in logs:\n graph_args[self.prefix + name] = logs[name]\n if \"val_\" + name in logs:\n graph_args[self.prefix + \"val_\" + name] = logs[\"val_\" + name]\n self._session[group].append(epoch, graph_args)\n\n def on_batch_end(self, batch, logs):\n self.steps_elapsed += 1\n if self.steps_elapsed % self.period == 0:\n for name in self.metrics:\n if name in logs:\n self._session[name + \"_iter\"].append(\n self.steps_elapsed, {self.prefix + name: logs[name]}\n )\n\n if hasattr(self.model.optimizer, \"get_lr\"):\n learning_rates = [self.model.optimizer.get_lr()[0]]\n else:\n learning_rates = (\n param_group[\"lr\"]\n for param_group in self.model.optimizer.param_groups\n )\n for group_idx, lr in enumerate(learning_rates):\n self._session[\"learning rate\"].append(\n self.steps_elapsed, {\"lr_param_group_\" + str(group_idx): lr}\n )\n\n\nclass CSVParamLogger(CSVLogger):\n def __init__(\n self,\n filename,\n *,\n batch_granularity=False,\n separator=\",\",\n append=False,\n extra_metrics=[]\n ):\n super(CSVParamLogger, self).__init__(\n filename,\n batch_granularity=batch_granularity,\n separator=separator,\n append=append,\n )\n self.extra_metrics = extra_metrics\n\n def on_train_begin(self, logs):\n metrics = [\"loss\"] + self.model.metrics_names\n\n if self.batch_granularity:\n self.fieldnames = [\"epoch\", \"batch\", \"size\", \"time\", \"lr\"]\n else:\n self.fieldnames = [\"epoch\", \"time\", \"lr\"]\n self.fieldnames += metrics\n self.fieldnames += [\"val_\" + metric for metric in metrics]\n self.fieldnames += self.extra_metrics\n self._on_train_begin_write(logs)\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model1_bert_code/data/__init__.py", "content": "from .dataset import *\nfrom .sampler import *\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model1_bert_code/data/augmentation/__init__.py", "content": "from .tokenization import *\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model1_bert_code/data/augmentation/tokenization.py", "content": "import numpy as np\nfrom typing import List\nfrom transformers import BertTokenizer\n\n\nclass BertRandomTokenizer(BertTokenizer):\n def __init__(\n self,\n vocab_file,\n lower_case_prob=1.0,\n basic_tokenize_prob=1.0,\n piece_split_prob=0.0,\n recursive=False,\n **kwargs\n ):\n super(BertRandomTokenizer, self).__init__(\n vocab_file,\n do_lower_case=lower_case_prob > 0,\n do_basic_tokenize=True,\n **kwargs\n )\n self.lower_case_prob = lower_case_prob\n self.basic_tokenize_prob = basic_tokenize_prob\n self.piece_split_prob = piece_split_prob\n self.recursive = recursive\n\n def _split_word_piece(self, token: str) -> List[str]:\n if token in self.all_special_tokens:\n return [token]\n\n token_id = self.wordpiece_tokenizer.vocab.pop(token)\n pieces = self.wordpiece_tokenizer.tokenize(token)\n self.wordpiece_tokenizer.vocab[token] = token_id\n\n if self.unk_token not in pieces and len(pieces) > 0:\n return pieces\n else:\n return [token]\n\n def _tokenize(self, text):\n self.basic_tokenizer.do_lower_case = (\n np.random.uniform(0, 1) <= self.lower_case_prob\n )\n self.do_basic_tokenize = np.random.uniform(0, 1) <= self.basic_tokenize_prob\n\n def unroll(token_list):\n tokens = []\n for item in token_list:\n if not isinstance(item, list):\n tokens.append(item)\n else:\n tokens += item\n return tokens\n\n tokens = super(BertRandomTokenizer, self)._tokenize(text)\n\n current_pos = 0\n while current_pos < len(tokens):\n if np.random.uniform(0, 1) <= self.piece_split_prob:\n tokens[current_pos] = self._split_word_piece(tokens[current_pos])\n if self.recursive:\n tokens = unroll(tokens)\n current_pos += 1\n\n tokens = unroll(tokens)\n return tokens\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model1_bert_code/data/dataset.py", "content": "from torch.utils.data import Dataset\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nfrom typing import List, Text\nfrom transformers import PreTrainedTokenizer\n\nEASY_QUESTION_TARGETS = [\n \"question_conversational\",\n \"question_has_commonly_accepted_answer\",\n \"question_type_entity\",\n \"question_opinion_seeking\",\n \"question_interestingness_self\",\n \"question_well_written\",\n \"question_multi_intent\",\n \"question_body_critical\",\n \"question_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"question_type_choice\",\n \"question_type_instructions\",\n]\nEASY_ANSWER_TARGETS = [\n \"answer_type_instructions\",\n \"answer_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"answer_level_of_information\",\n]\nHARD_QUESTION_TARGETS = [\n \"question_type_spelling\",\n \"question_not_really_a_question\",\n \"question_type_consequence\",\n \"question_expect_short_answer\",\n \"question_type_compare\",\n \"question_type_procedure\",\n \"question_type_definition\",\n \"question_interestingness_others\",\n \"question_fact_seeking\",\n \"question_asker_intent_understanding\",\n]\nHARD_ANSWER_TARGETS = [\n \"answer_helpful\",\n \"answer_type_procedure\",\n \"answer_satisfaction\",\n \"answer_plausible\",\n \"answer_well_written\",\n \"answer_relevance\",\n]\nQUESTION_TARGETS = [\n \"question_asker_intent_understanding\",\n \"question_body_critical\",\n \"question_conversational\",\n \"question_expect_short_answer\",\n \"question_fact_seeking\",\n \"question_has_commonly_accepted_answer\",\n \"question_interestingness_others\",\n \"question_interestingness_self\",\n \"question_multi_intent\",\n \"question_not_really_a_question\",\n \"question_opinion_seeking\",\n \"question_type_choice\",\n \"question_type_compare\",\n \"question_type_consequence\",\n \"question_type_definition\",\n \"question_type_entity\",\n \"question_type_instructions\",\n \"question_type_procedure\",\n \"question_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"question_type_spelling\",\n \"question_well_written\",\n]\nANSWER_TARGETS = [\n \"answer_helpful\",\n \"answer_level_of_information\",\n \"answer_plausible\",\n \"answer_relevance\",\n \"answer_satisfaction\",\n \"answer_type_instructions\",\n \"answer_type_procedure\",\n \"answer_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"answer_well_written\",\n]\nALL_TARGETS = QUESTION_TARGETS + ANSWER_TARGETS\n\n\nclass QuestDataset(Dataset):\n def __init__(\n self,\n data_df,\n tokenizer,\n max_seg_length=256,\n target_cols=\"all_targets\",\n answer_ratio=0.5,\n title_ratio=0.5,\n use_title=True,\n use_body=True,\n use_answer=True,\n title_col=\"question_title\",\n body_col=\"question_body\",\n answer_col=\"answer\",\n title_transform=None,\n body_transform=None,\n answer_transform=None,\n ):\n self.tokenizer: PreTrainedTokenizer = tokenizer\n self.max_seg_length = max_seg_length\n self.target_cols = (\n QUESTION_TARGETS + ANSWER_TARGETS\n if target_cols is \"all_targets\"\n else target_cols\n )\n self.answer_ratio = answer_ratio\n self.title_ratio = title_ratio\n\n if target_cols is not None:\n if target_cols is \"all_targets\":\n target_cols = ALL_TARGETS\n self.targets = data_df[target_cols].values\n\n self.question_title = data_df[title_col].values if use_title else None\n self.question_body = data_df[body_col].values if use_body else None\n self.answer = data_df[answer_col].values if use_answer else None\n\n self.title_transform = title_transform\n self.body_transform = body_transform\n self.answer_transform = answer_transform\n\n def _encode_segments(self, *text_segments: List[Text]) -> List[List[int]]:\n # if self.transform is not None:\n # text_segments = [self.transform(txt) for txt in text_segments]\n return [\n self.tokenizer.encode(\n txt, max_length=self.max_seg_length, add_special_tokens=False\n )\n if txt is not None\n else []\n for txt in text_segments\n ]\n\n def _process(self, title=None, body=None, answer=None):\n input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids = self._prepare_features(\n title, body, answer\n )\n\n input_ids = self._pad_and_truncate(\n input_ids, pad_value=self.tokenizer.pad_token_id\n )\n token_type_ids = self._pad_and_truncate(\n token_type_ids, pad_value=token_type_ids[-1]\n )\n attention_mask = self._pad_and_truncate(attention_mask, pad_value=0)\n return input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids\n\n def _pad_and_truncate(self, features, pad_value=0):\n features = list(features[: self.max_seg_length])\n features = features + [pad_value,] * (self.max_seg_length - len(features))\n features = np.array(features)\n return features\n\n @staticmethod\n def _balance_segments(\n first_segment_length, second_segment_length, second_ratio, max_length\n ):\n first_segment_length = min(\n first_segment_length,\n (1 - second_ratio) * max_length\n + max(second_ratio * max_length - second_segment_length, 0),\n )\n\n second_segment_length = min(\n second_segment_length,\n second_ratio * max_length\n + max((1 - second_ratio) * max_length - first_segment_length, 0),\n )\n\n return int(first_segment_length), int(second_segment_length)\n\n def _prepare_features(self, title, body, answer):\n title_input_ids, body_input_ids, answer_input_ids = self._encode_segments(\n title, body, answer\n )\n\n title_length = len(title_input_ids)\n body_length = len(body_input_ids)\n answer_length = len(answer_input_ids)\n\n question_length, answer_length = self._balance_segments(\n title_length + body_length,\n answer_length,\n self.answer_ratio,\n self.max_seg_length,\n )\n\n title_length, body_length = self._balance_segments(\n title_length, body_length, self.title_ratio, question_length\n )\n\n # TODO: generalize this\n question_input_ids = body_input_ids[:body_length]\n if title_length > 0:\n question_input_ids = (\n title_input_ids[:title_length]\n + [self.tokenizer.sep_token_id]\n + question_input_ids\n )\n answer_input_ids = answer_input_ids[:answer_length]\n\n input_ids = self.tokenizer.build_inputs_with_special_tokens(\n question_input_ids, answer_input_ids if answer_length > 0 else None\n )\n token_type_ids = self.tokenizer.create_token_type_ids_from_sequences(\n question_input_ids, answer_input_ids\n )\n attention_mask = [1.0] * len(input_ids)\n\n return input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids\n\n def _get_text(self, index):\n title = self.question_title[index] if self.question_title is not None else None\n body = self.question_body[index] if self.question_body is not None else None\n answer = self.answer[index] if self.answer is not None else None\n\n def apply_transform(txt, transform):\n if transform is not None:\n return transform(txt, idx=index)\n else:\n return txt\n\n title, body, answer = [\n apply_transform(txt, transform)\n for txt, transform in zip(\n [title, body, answer],\n [self.title_transform, self.body_transform, self.answer_transform],\n )\n ]\n\n return title, body, answer\n\n def __getitem__(self, index):\n title, body, answer = self._get_text(index)\n\n input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids = self._process(title, body, answer)\n targets = self.targets[index]\n\n input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids = map(\n torch.LongTensor, [input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids]\n )\n targets = torch.FloatTensor(targets)\n\n return (input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids), targets\n\n def __len__(self):\n if self.answer is not None:\n return len(self.answer)\n elif self.question_title is not None:\n return len(self.question_title)\n else:\n return len(self.question_body)\n\n\nclass TestQuestDataset(QuestDataset):\n def __init__(\n self,\n data_df,\n tokenizer,\n max_seg_length=256,\n answer_ratio=0.5,\n title_ratio=0.5,\n use_title=True,\n use_body=True,\n use_answer=True,\n title_col=\"question_title\",\n body_col=\"question_body\",\n answer_col=\"answer\",\n ):\n super(TestQuestDataset, self).__init__(\n data_df=data_df,\n tokenizer=tokenizer,\n max_seg_length=max_seg_length,\n target_cols=None,\n answer_ratio=answer_ratio,\n title_ratio=title_ratio,\n use_title=use_title,\n use_body=use_body,\n use_answer=use_answer,\n title_col=title_col,\n body_col=body_col,\n answer_col=answer_col,\n )\n\n def __getitem__(self, index):\n title, body, answer = self._get_text(index)\n\n input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids = self._process(title, body, answer)\n input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids = map(\n torch.LongTensor, [input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids]\n )\n return (input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids)\n\n\nclass QuestSiameseDataset(QuestDataset):\n def __getitem__(self, index):\n title, body, answer = self._get_text(index)\n\n input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids = self._process(\n title=title, body=body\n )\n question_inputs = list(\n map(torch.LongTensor, [input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids])\n )\n\n input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids = self._process(body=answer)\n answer_inputs = list(\n map(torch.LongTensor, [input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids])\n )\n\n targets = self.targets[index]\n targets = torch.FloatTensor(targets)\n\n return (question_inputs, answer_inputs), targets\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model1_bert_code/data/folds.csv", "content": "row_id,qa_id,fold\n0,0,1\n1,1,1\n2,2,4\n3,3,3\n4,5,1\n5,6,3\n6,7,4\n7,9,1\n8,11,2\n9,12,4\n10,14,2\n11,15,3\n12,16,0\n13,17,1\n14,18,1\n15,19,0\n16,22,1\n17,23,2\n18,24,3\n19,25,0\n20,27,2\n21,29,2\n22,30,1\n23,31,1\n24,32,4\n25,33,0\n26,36,1\n27,38,2\n28,40,0\n29,41,0\n30,47,1\n31,48,2\n32,50,2\n33,51,4\n34,52,4\n35,54,1\n36,55,2\n37,56,0\n38,58,4\n39,59,0\n40,60,3\n41,61,3\n42,63,4\n43,64,2\n44,65,3\n45,68,1\n46,71,3\n47,72,0\n48,74,3\n49,75,2\n50,77,0\n51,78,1\n52,79,4\n53,80,4\n54,81,4\n55,82,0\n56,83,3\n57,87,0\n58,88,0\n59,91,3\n60,92,1\n61,95,4\n62,96,2\n63,97,1\n64,98,3\n65,99,1\n66,104,2\n67,105,4\n68,108,3\n69,109,3\n70,110,1\n71,111,4\n72,112,0\n73,115,1\n74,117,4\n75,118,0\n76,119,4\n77,121,2\n78,127,3\n79,128,2\n80,129,3\n81,131,2\n82,135,2\n83,138,4\n84,139,3\n85,141,1\n86,143,4\n87,144,2\n88,145,0\n89,148,0\n90,149,0\n91,151,0\n92,152,1\n93,154,1\n94,155,0\n95,156,2\n96,157,2\n97,158,0\n98,160,3\n99,162,0\n100,163,0\n101,164,2\n102,168,2\n103,169,1\n104,170,4\n105,171,3\n106,174,1\n107,175,0\n108,176,3\n109,177,4\n110,178,1\n111,180,4\n112,181,4\n113,182,4\n114,183,0\n115,184,1\n116,185,1\n117,186,0\n118,187,1\n119,188,3\n120,191,4\n121,192,1\n122,193,2\n123,194,4\n124,196,3\n125,198,2\n126,201,3\n127,202,3\n128,203,4\n129,204,0\n130,207,4\n131,210,1\n132,211,2\n133,213,2\n134,214,2\n135,215,3\n136,216,4\n137,217,1\n138,219,3\n139,222,1\n140,223,2\n141,224,3\n142,226,3\n143,227,2\n144,229,0\n145,230,0\n146,231,1\n147,233,4\n148,234,0\n149,236,4\n150,238,3\n151,239,1\n152,240,3\n153,241,3\n154,242,1\n155,243,1\n156,247,2\n157,248,1\n158,249,0\n159,250,4\n160,253,2\n161,254,4\n162,256,0\n163,259,3\n164,261,1\n165,262,2\n166,263,1\n167,264,1\n168,265,4\n169,266,1\n170,268,3\n171,269,0\n172,270,4\n173,271,0\n174,272,2\n175,273,2\n176,274,4\n177,276,0\n178,277,1\n179,279,4\n180,280,3\n181,283,1\n182,285,3\n183,286,1\n184,287,0\n185,288,2\n186,294,0\n187,298,0\n188,302,4\n189,303,3\n190,304,1\n191,305,0\n192,306,0\n193,308,3\n194,309,1\n195,311,3\n196,313,1\n197,317,0\n198,319,1\n199,320,4\n200,321,2\n201,324,1\n202,325,4\n203,326,1\n204,328,2\n205,329,2\n206,330,0\n207,331,0\n208,332,2\n209,333,1\n210,335,0\n211,337,4\n212,339,2\n213,341,4\n214,345,0\n215,346,4\n216,347,0\n217,348,2\n218,350,4\n219,351,4\n220,352,3\n221,353,3\n222,354,0\n223,355,1\n224,358,2\n225,359,4\n226,363,4\n227,364,0\n228,365,3\n229,366,3\n230,367,2\n231,368,1\n232,369,4\n233,370,3\n234,372,0\n235,377,3\n236,378,0\n237,380,0\n238,383,0\n239,384,4\n240,385,1\n241,386,3\n242,388,0\n243,389,0\n244,392,4\n245,393,2\n246,396,3\n247,398,2\n248,400,2\n249,402,3\n250,404,0\n251,405,3\n252,406,1\n253,409,2\n254,410,2\n255,412,4\n256,413,1\n257,415,1\n258,419,2\n259,420,0\n260,422,2\n261,424,1\n262,425,1\n263,426,4\n264,428,4\n265,430,2\n266,431,4\n267,433,3\n268,434,3\n269,435,3\n270,436,3\n271,437,1\n272,438,2\n273,439,2\n274,440,3\n275,441,0\n276,442,1\n277,446,1\n278,447,0\n279,450,4\n280,452,0\n281,453,0\n282,454,4\n283,456,3\n284,459,4\n285,460,4\n286,462,3\n287,463,2\n288,464,2\n289,466,4\n290,467,3\n291,468,2\n292,469,1\n293,471,0\n294,473,3\n295,475,3\n296,477,4\n297,478,2\n298,480,1\n299,481,4\n300,485,3\n301,486,2\n302,488,4\n303,489,2\n304,492,0\n305,493,4\n306,494,0\n307,496,4\n308,497,3\n309,498,0\n310,499,4\n311,500,2\n312,501,3\n313,502,3\n314,503,1\n315,507,4\n316,508,4\n317,509,1\n318,510,1\n319,512,2\n320,514,2\n321,515,4\n322,516,4\n323,517,3\n324,519,3\n325,521,4\n326,523,2\n327,525,0\n328,527,3\n329,528,1\n330,530,4\n331,531,1\n332,532,4\n333,533,0\n334,534,2\n335,535,4\n336,536,3\n337,537,1\n338,540,2\n339,541,3\n340,543,4\n341,544,3\n342,547,1\n343,548,1\n344,549,3\n345,550,4\n346,552,3\n347,553,2\n348,554,2\n349,555,4\n350,556,4\n351,557,4\n352,559,3\n353,560,2\n354,561,3\n355,564,3\n356,565,2\n357,566,3\n358,567,3\n359,568,4\n360,570,2\n361,571,2\n362,572,0\n363,573,2\n364,574,0\n365,575,2\n366,577,4\n367,580,4\n368,581,3\n369,582,4\n370,583,3\n371,586,1\n372,587,1\n373,590,0\n374,591,4\n375,592,3\n376,593,1\n377,594,0\n378,596,2\n379,597,2\n380,598,0\n381,601,3\n382,602,3\n383,603,3\n384,605,3\n385,607,2\n386,608,3\n387,609,2\n388,610,0\n389,611,4\n390,612,0\n391,613,0\n392,616,2\n393,617,2\n394,618,2\n395,619,1\n396,620,1\n397,621,2\n398,622,1\n399,623,0\n400,624,4\n401,626,1\n402,627,0\n403,628,3\n404,630,2\n405,631,3\n406,632,3\n407,633,3\n408,634,4\n409,635,3\n410,636,2\n411,638,1\n412,639,3\n413,643,0\n414,644,2\n415,645,3\n416,646,1\n417,648,4\n418,649,1\n419,651,2\n420,652,1\n421,653,2\n422,655,2\n423,656,3\n424,658,3\n425,659,4\n426,661,4\n427,662,1\n428,663,3\n429,664,2\n430,667,4\n431,670,0\n432,672,0\n433,673,0\n434,674,3\n435,675,4\n436,676,1\n437,677,1\n438,678,2\n439,679,1\n440,684,0\n441,687,0\n442,688,0\n443,690,0\n444,693,4\n445,694,1\n446,696,4\n447,697,0\n448,698,1\n449,701,0\n450,702,3\n451,704,2\n452,705,0\n453,706,1\n454,708,3\n455,709,3\n456,710,1\n457,712,1\n458,713,1\n459,714,1\n460,716,3\n461,717,3\n462,718,4\n463,719,0\n464,720,0\n465,721,1\n466,723,2\n467,724,4\n468,730,0\n469,731,1\n470,732,3\n471,734,0\n472,736,4\n473,737,2\n474,738,1\n475,739,1\n476,741,3\n477,742,4\n478,744,1\n479,745,4\n480,747,0\n481,749,3\n482,750,1\n483,753,0\n484,754,1\n485,755,3\n486,758,0\n487,759,3\n488,762,0\n489,763,3\n490,764,2\n491,766,2\n492,767,3\n493,768,2\n494,772,0\n495,774,1\n496,775,4\n497,776,3\n498,778,2\n499,779,0\n500,780,3\n501,781,4\n502,782,1\n503,784,2\n504,785,4\n505,788,2\n506,789,1\n507,790,0\n508,791,1\n509,795,4\n510,796,4\n511,803,1\n512,805,0\n513,807,1\n514,809,2\n515,810,4\n516,814,2\n517,815,4\n518,816,2\n519,817,4\n520,819,1\n521,820,4\n522,823,4\n523,824,2\n524,825,0\n525,827,4\n526,829,1\n527,831,2\n528,832,4\n529,833,2\n530,834,3\n531,835,0\n532,836,3\n533,838,0\n534,839,0\n535,840,2\n536,841,4\n537,843,3\n538,847,3\n539,848,1\n540,850,1\n541,852,2\n542,854,2\n543,855,2\n544,857,4\n545,858,0\n546,859,1\n547,860,1\n548,863,3\n549,864,2\n550,865,2\n551,866,4\n552,867,1\n553,869,0\n554,873,2\n555,874,2\n556,875,1\n557,878,1\n558,879,3\n559,880,2\n560,881,0\n561,882,0\n562,883,3\n563,886,3\n564,887,0\n565,888,1\n566,889,0\n567,891,0\n568,892,0\n569,893,3\n570,894,3\n571,895,4\n572,896,2\n573,897,3\n574,898,4\n575,899,2\n576,900,3\n577,902,2\n578,903,0\n579,906,2\n580,907,1\n581,908,3\n582,909,3\n583,910,3\n584,911,1\n585,912,1\n586,913,0\n587,914,1\n588,915,2\n589,916,1\n590,918,3\n591,919,0\n592,925,2\n593,926,3\n594,927,4\n595,930,2\n596,933,1\n597,935,1\n598,937,2\n599,940,3\n600,941,1\n601,942,0\n602,943,1\n603,944,4\n604,946,0\n605,947,3\n606,948,3\n607,950,4\n608,951,1\n609,953,4\n610,954,2\n611,956,2\n612,958,0\n613,959,0\n614,961,3\n615,964,2\n616,966,3\n617,967,2\n618,970,4\n619,974,4\n620,975,3\n621,977,1\n622,980,1\n623,982,1\n624,983,3\n625,984,1\n626,985,2\n627,990,0\n628,991,3\n629,992,1\n630,994,3\n631,995,1\n632,997,2\n633,999,4\n634,1000,3\n635,1001,2\n636,1004,3\n637,1006,2\n638,1009,4\n639,1010,4\n640,1011,4\n641,1013,3\n642,1015,4\n643,1017,2\n644,1018,2\n645,1024,0\n646,1025,4\n647,1026,3\n648,1029,3\n649,1030,3\n650,1031,1\n651,1034,3\n652,1035,4\n653,1036,0\n654,1040,4\n655,1042,4\n656,1043,3\n657,1044,2\n658,1047,2\n659,1048,4\n660,1049,0\n661,1050,0\n662,1051,4\n663,1052,0\n664,1053,2\n665,1055,1\n666,1057,0\n667,1058,2\n668,1059,3\n669,1061,3\n670,1063,4\n671,1064,4\n672,1065,4\n673,1066,1\n674,1067,0\n675,1068,3\n676,1069,4\n677,1070,2\n678,1071,1\n679,1072,1\n680,1073,0\n681,1074,4\n682,1077,2\n683,1078,0\n684,1080,2\n685,1081,0\n686,1083,0\n687,1084,2\n688,1086,0\n689,1087,1\n690,1088,4\n691,1089,1\n692,1092,3\n693,1093,4\n694,1095,0\n695,1096,1\n696,1098,1\n697,1102,2\n698,1103,3\n699,1105,2\n700,1106,1\n701,1107,1\n702,1111,1\n703,1112,0\n704,1113,1\n705,1115,3\n706,1116,0\n707,1117,3\n708,1120,4\n709,1122,2\n710,1123,0\n711,1126,0\n712,1129,3\n713,1130,2\n714,1131,0\n715,1132,0\n716,1133,4\n717,1135,4\n718,1137,4\n719,1139,4\n720,1141,4\n721,1142,0\n722,1146,1\n723,1147,3\n724,1149,2\n725,1155,4\n726,1156,0\n727,1157,2\n728,1160,0\n729,1161,0\n730,1162,0\n731,1163,2\n732,1165,3\n733,1166,2\n734,1167,2\n735,1168,1\n736,1169,1\n737,1170,0\n738,1172,1\n739,1173,1\n740,1174,0\n741,1176,3\n742,1177,3\n743,1178,0\n744,1179,4\n745,1180,4\n746,1181,0\n747,1182,0\n748,1184,2\n749,1185,3\n750,1186,4\n751,1187,0\n752,1188,3\n753,1191,0\n754,1192,1\n755,1193,0\n756,1197,4\n757,1198,4\n758,1199,4\n759,1202,3\n760,1203,2\n761,1204,2\n762,1205,4\n763,1206,1\n764,1207,0\n765,1208,1\n766,1209,4\n767,1212,4\n768,1213,4\n769,1215,0\n770,1217,4\n771,1218,2\n772,1219,3\n773,1222,2\n774,1225,4\n775,1227,4\n776,1235,2\n777,1237,2\n778,1239,0\n779,1240,4\n780,1241,4\n781,1242,1\n782,1244,4\n783,1245,2\n784,1246,0\n785,1250,4\n786,1251,0\n787,1252,2\n788,1253,3\n789,1254,4\n790,1255,2\n791,1256,0\n792,1257,1\n793,1259,2\n794,1260,3\n795,1261,0\n796,1262,0\n797,1264,4\n798,1267,4\n799,1268,3\n800,1269,0\n801,1270,2\n802,1271,4\n803,1273,4\n804,1274,3\n805,1275,3\n806,1276,3\n807,1277,2\n808,1279,0\n809,1280,1\n810,1283,1\n811,1284,4\n812,1285,4\n813,1289,4\n814,1290,0\n815,1291,3\n816,1292,2\n817,1294,3\n818,1296,4\n819,1298,4\n820,1299,1\n821,1303,3\n822,1305,3\n823,1306,1\n824,1307,2\n825,1309,0\n826,1311,0\n827,1316,3\n828,1320,0\n829,1321,1\n830,1322,1\n831,1325,1\n832,1326,3\n833,1327,3\n834,1328,4\n835,1330,4\n836,1332,1\n837,1333,3\n838,1334,4\n839,1335,0\n840,1337,3\n841,1339,1\n842,1340,1\n843,1341,2\n844,1342,2\n845,1343,2\n846,1345,0\n847,1347,4\n848,1350,2\n849,1355,2\n850,1356,0\n851,1357,2\n852,1358,0\n853,1360,4\n854,1361,3\n855,1362,3\n856,1364,3\n857,1365,1\n858,1366,1\n859,1367,1\n860,1368,0\n861,1369,1\n862,1370,4\n863,1371,1\n864,1372,3\n865,1373,4\n866,1374,2\n867,1375,2\n868,1376,1\n869,1378,2\n870,1380,1\n871,1381,1\n872,1384,3\n873,1386,3\n874,1387,1\n875,1388,0\n876,1389,4\n877,1392,3\n878,1395,2\n879,1396,2\n880,1400,0\n881,1401,3\n882,1402,2\n883,1403,1\n884,1404,2\n885,1405,0\n886,1406,2\n887,1407,3\n888,1409,1\n889,1410,3\n890,1411,1\n891,1413,4\n892,1416,2\n893,1417,1\n894,1418,0\n895,1421,0\n896,1422,0\n897,1425,4\n898,1426,1\n899,1428,0\n900,1429,1\n901,1431,2\n902,1433,3\n903,1435,0\n904,1436,3\n905,1437,1\n906,1438,4\n907,1440,2\n908,1441,4\n909,1442,3\n910,1443,4\n911,1445,4\n912,1447,3\n913,1448,4\n914,1450,4\n915,1451,1\n916,1452,1\n917,1453,4\n918,1455,2\n919,1456,4\n920,1457,2\n921,1458,1\n922,1459,1\n923,1460,4\n924,1461,1\n925,1462,4\n926,1463,1\n927,1464,4\n928,1465,1\n929,1467,2\n930,1468,2\n931,1471,2\n932,1478,3\n933,1480,0\n934,1483,4\n935,1485,4\n936,1486,2\n937,1487,0\n938,1488,0\n939,1489,0\n940,1490,4\n941,1491,2\n942,1492,3\n943,1493,2\n944,1494,2\n945,1495,3\n946,1497,2\n947,1499,1\n948,1503,1\n949,1504,0\n950,1506,3\n951,1507,1\n952,1508,2\n953,1509,0\n954,1511,4\n955,1512,1\n956,1513,3\n957,1515,0\n958,1516,4\n959,1517,0\n960,1520,4\n961,1521,1\n962,1522,1\n963,1524,4\n964,1527,4\n965,1530,1\n966,1532,0\n967,1533,0\n968,1534,0\n969,1535,1\n970,1536,1\n971,1537,3\n972,1540,0\n973,1541,2\n974,1543,1\n975,1545,2\n976,1546,1\n977,1547,3\n978,1548,2\n979,1550,1\n980,1551,3\n981,1552,4\n982,1554,2\n983,1555,0\n984,1556,0\n985,1560,4\n986,1561,2\n987,1562,1\n988,1563,0\n989,1564,2\n990,1565,0\n991,1566,2\n992,1568,0\n993,1569,3\n994,1571,3\n995,1572,1\n996,1573,3\n997,1574,1\n998,1576,4\n999,1577,4\n1000,1578,4\n1001,1579,0\n1002,1581,0\n1003,1582,0\n1004,1583,0\n1005,1584,2\n1006,1587,1\n1007,1588,4\n1008,1589,3\n1009,1592,3\n1010,1595,4\n1011,1596,4\n1012,1597,2\n1013,1598,2\n1014,1600,0\n1015,1602,2\n1016,1604,4\n1017,1605,0\n1018,1607,0\n1019,1608,3\n1020,1609,3\n1021,1610,0\n1022,1613,3\n1023,1614,4\n1024,1615,2\n1025,1616,4\n1026,1617,0\n1027,1618,1\n1028,1619,1\n1029,1620,0\n1030,1621,4\n1031,1622,1\n1032,1623,1\n1033,1625,2\n1034,1626,3\n1035,1628,3\n1036,1629,1\n1037,1632,4\n1038,1634,4\n1039,1635,1\n1040,1636,1\n1041,1637,1\n1042,1639,0\n1043,1640,2\n1044,1641,1\n1045,1642,0\n1046,1644,1\n1047,1646,1\n1048,1648,3\n1049,1650,0\n1050,1651,3\n1051,1652,3\n1052,1653,3\n1053,1655,4\n1054,1656,3\n1055,1658,1\n1056,1660,4\n1057,1662,3\n1058,1663,4\n1059,1666,0\n1060,1667,2\n1061,1670,0\n1062,1672,1\n1063,1673,3\n1064,1675,1\n1065,1678,1\n1066,1683,3\n1067,1684,2\n1068,1686,3\n1069,1687,4\n1070,1689,4\n1071,1690,0\n1072,1691,2\n1073,1692,4\n1074,1694,4\n1075,1695,1\n1076,1696,4\n1077,1697,0\n1078,1702,1\n1079,1703,3\n1080,1706,1\n1081,1709,4\n1082,1710,3\n1083,1711,3\n1084,1712,4\n1085,1713,0\n1086,1714,1\n1087,1715,3\n1088,1716,0\n1089,1718,4\n1090,1719,4\n1091,1721,0\n1092,1722,2\n1093,1723,1\n1094,1724,1\n1095,1726,0\n1096,1728,0\n1097,1729,3\n1098,1730,4\n1099,1731,0\n1100,1733,0\n1101,1734,4\n1102,1735,4\n1103,1736,3\n1104,1738,4\n1105,1739,4\n1106,1741,1\n1107,1742,4\n1108,1743,0\n1109,1744,2\n1110,1745,3\n1111,1746,4\n1112,1748,0\n1113,1749,1\n1114,1750,3\n1115,1751,3\n1116,1752,2\n1117,1754,1\n1118,1755,4\n1119,1756,3\n1120,1758,4\n1121,1760,4\n1122,1761,0\n1123,1763,4\n1124,1765,2\n1125,1766,3\n1126,1767,0\n1127,1768,3\n1128,1769,2\n1129,1770,1\n1130,1771,2\n1131,1773,4\n1132,1775,4\n1133,1776,2\n1134,1778,1\n1135,1779,3\n1136,1780,2\n1137,1781,1\n1138,1782,0\n1139,1785,3\n1140,1786,2\n1141,1789,0\n1142,1791,2\n1143,1792,0\n1144,1797,0\n1145,1800,4\n1146,1801,2\n1147,1802,2\n1148,1803,3\n1149,1804,3\n1150,1805,3\n1151,1806,0\n1152,1808,4\n1153,1809,3\n1154,1813,1\n1155,1814,3\n1156,1815,2\n1157,1817,1\n1158,1818,1\n1159,1819,0\n1160,1820,0\n1161,1822,0\n1162,1823,1\n1163,1824,2\n1164,1828,4\n1165,1832,3\n1166,1834,0\n1167,1835,3\n1168,1836,3\n1169,1838,0\n1170,1840,4\n1171,1841,0\n1172,1843,0\n1173,1844,2\n1174,1845,4\n1175,1846,3\n1176,1848,4\n1177,1850,4\n1178,1851,3\n1179,1853,0\n1180,1855,4\n1181,1856,0\n1182,1858,3\n1183,1859,1\n1184,1860,4\n1185,1861,2\n1186,1862,1\n1187,1863,4\n1188,1867,2\n1189,1869,4\n1190,1872,4\n1191,1873,0\n1192,1875,2\n1193,1876,4\n1194,1878,1\n1195,1879,2\n1196,1880,2\n1197,1881,4\n1198,1882,0\n1199,1883,1\n1200,1884,2\n1201,1888,2\n1202,1890,4\n1203,1892,3\n1204,1893,0\n1205,1894,2\n1206,1896,3\n1207,1897,2\n1208,1898,4\n1209,1899,0\n1210,1900,3\n1211,1902,3\n1212,1903,0\n1213,1904,4\n1214,1905,2\n1215,1908,4\n1216,1910,1\n1217,1911,0\n1218,1912,3\n1219,1914,0\n1220,1915,0\n1221,1916,3\n1222,1917,4\n1223,1918,2\n1224,1919,2\n1225,1921,1\n1226,1922,0\n1227,1923,1\n1228,1924,3\n1229,1925,4\n1230,1926,3\n1231,1927,3\n1232,1929,4\n1233,1930,4\n1234,1933,2\n1235,1935,0\n1236,1937,4\n1237,1938,2\n1238,1939,2\n1239,1944,3\n1240,1946,2\n1241,1948,4\n1242,1952,4\n1243,1953,2\n1244,1955,4\n1245,1956,4\n1246,1958,3\n1247,1961,2\n1248,1962,2\n1249,1963,3\n1250,1965,4\n1251,1967,1\n1252,1968,0\n1253,1971,3\n1254,1972,4\n1255,1973,0\n1256,1979,2\n1257,1980,1\n1258,1982,0\n1259,1984,3\n1260,1986,4\n1261,1987,0\n1262,1988,3\n1263,1991,2\n1264,1992,0\n1265,1993,4\n1266,1995,3\n1267,1996,2\n1268,1998,2\n1269,2000,0\n1270,2001,3\n1271,2002,1\n1272,2003,0\n1273,2004,2\n1274,2006,3\n1275,2009,1\n1276,2011,0\n1277,2012,3\n1278,2013,4\n1279,2015,2\n1280,2016,2\n1281,2020,2\n1282,2021,0\n1283,2023,3\n1284,2026,4\n1285,2028,3\n1286,2029,0\n1287,2030,1\n1288,2031,3\n1289,2032,0\n1290,2033,2\n1291,2035,1\n1292,2037,1\n1293,2038,3\n1294,2039,4\n1295,2040,1\n1296,2041,0\n1297,2044,1\n1298,2045,3\n1299,2046,2\n1300,2047,2\n1301,2048,4\n1302,2049,2\n1303,2051,4\n1304,2052,1\n1305,2053,4\n1306,2056,4\n1307,2059,3\n1308,2061,0\n1309,2063,4\n1310,2064,2\n1311,2065,1\n1312,2068,2\n1313,2072,3\n1314,2077,1\n1315,2079,1\n1316,2081,4\n1317,2082,2\n1318,2083,4\n1319,2084,2\n1320,2085,4\n1321,2086,4\n1322,2087,1\n1323,2088,3\n1324,2089,0\n1325,2090,4\n1326,2091,3\n1327,2092,4\n1328,2093,4\n1329,2096,2\n1330,2098,4\n1331,2099,2\n1332,2100,3\n1333,2101,0\n1334,2103,2\n1335,2104,0\n1336,2107,1\n1337,2108,2\n1338,2110,2\n1339,2112,2\n1340,2113,4\n1341,2114,0\n1342,2115,2\n1343,2116,0\n1344,2118,3\n1345,2119,3\n1346,2120,3\n1347,2122,3\n1348,2123,1\n1349,2125,4\n1350,2127,4\n1351,2129,2\n1352,2130,1\n1353,2131,4\n1354,2133,0\n1355,2135,2\n1356,2136,2\n1357,2138,2\n1358,2139,0\n1359,2140,4\n1360,2141,1\n1361,2142,1\n1362,2143,4\n1363,2145,4\n1364,2146,3\n1365,2147,2\n1366,2149,3\n1367,2151,4\n1368,2152,4\n1369,2153,4\n1370,2155,0\n1371,2157,2\n1372,2158,4\n1373,2160,4\n1374,2161,0\n1375,2164,2\n1376,2167,1\n1377,2169,4\n1378,2170,3\n1379,2173,0\n1380,2174,2\n1381,2176,3\n1382,2177,1\n1383,2179,0\n1384,2181,4\n1385,2182,1\n1386,2183,3\n1387,2184,3\n1388,2185,2\n1389,2187,0\n1390,2188,1\n1391,2189,3\n1392,2196,4\n1393,2197,4\n1394,2198,0\n1395,2199,0\n1396,2200,1\n1397,2204,2\n1398,2205,2\n1399,2206,3\n1400,2207,4\n1401,2208,3\n1402,2209,4\n1403,2210,0\n1404,2211,4\n1405,2212,1\n1406,2214,2\n1407,2216,1\n1408,2217,2\n1409,2218,0\n1410,2219,0\n1411,2220,3\n1412,2221,2\n1413,2222,1\n1414,2223,0\n1415,2224,2\n1416,2225,4\n1417,2226,4\n1418,2227,4\n1419,2228,2\n1420,2229,3\n1421,2232,0\n1422,2233,0\n1423,2235,0\n1424,2236,1\n1425,2237,2\n1426,2238,4\n1427,2240,3\n1428,2241,0\n1429,2242,4\n1430,2247,2\n1431,2248,4\n1432,2252,2\n1433,2254,1\n1434,2255,1\n1435,2256,1\n1436,2258,2\n1437,2262,2\n1438,2265,0\n1439,2266,3\n1440,2268,2\n1441,2270,3\n1442,2271,2\n1443,2272,0\n1444,2274,3\n1445,2276,0\n1446,2279,0\n1447,2281,2\n1448,2282,3\n1449,2283,0\n1450,2284,0\n1451,2285,4\n1452,2287,0\n1453,2289,4\n1454,2290,3\n1455,2291,1\n1456,2292,1\n1457,2293,0\n1458,2294,1\n1459,2295,3\n1460,2297,4\n1461,2300,4\n1462,2302,0\n1463,2304,2\n1464,2307,0\n1465,2308,0\n1466,2309,3\n1467,2310,3\n1468,2311,1\n1469,2312,1\n1470,2314,4\n1471,2315,4\n1472,2316,0\n1473,2317,1\n1474,2319,2\n1475,2321,2\n1476,2322,1\n1477,2323,0\n1478,2324,4\n1479,2326,0\n1480,2327,0\n1481,2329,1\n1482,2331,0\n1483,2332,2\n1484,2333,2\n1485,2336,4\n1486,2337,3\n1487,2338,2\n1488,2339,0\n1489,2340,2\n1490,2344,2\n1491,2347,0\n1492,2348,0\n1493,2350,3\n1494,2351,1\n1495,2352,4\n1496,2355,3\n1497,2356,4\n1498,2360,2\n1499,2361,0\n1500,2362,1\n1501,2364,3\n1502,2365,1\n1503,2366,2\n1504,2367,0\n1505,2369,4\n1506,2370,1\n1507,2372,4\n1508,2373,1\n1509,2376,1\n1510,2377,1\n1511,2378,3\n1512,2379,1\n1513,2380,0\n1514,2381,2\n1515,2382,4\n1516,2384,2\n1517,2385,3\n1518,2386,4\n1519,2388,2\n1520,2390,0\n1521,2391,1\n1522,2392,4\n1523,2394,2\n1524,2397,1\n1525,2398,0\n1526,2400,2\n1527,2401,4\n1528,2402,0\n1529,2403,2\n1530,2404,2\n1531,2405,2\n1532,2406,3\n1533,2408,4\n1534,2409,1\n1535,2410,2\n1536,2413,2\n1537,2415,2\n1538,2416,4\n1539,2417,0\n1540,2418,3\n1541,2419,3\n1542,2420,2\n1543,2422,1\n1544,2423,2\n1545,2426,4\n1546,2427,3\n1547,2428,4\n1548,2430,0\n1549,2431,4\n1550,2432,2\n1551,2433,0\n1552,2434,4\n1553,2436,3\n1554,2439,1\n1555,2440,2\n1556,2441,0\n1557,2445,1\n1558,2446,0\n1559,2447,3\n1560,2448,0\n1561,2449,4\n1562,2450,0\n1563,2453,2\n1564,2456,1\n1565,2458,4\n1566,2460,0\n1567,2462,3\n1568,2463,4\n1569,2467,0\n1570,2469,4\n1571,2471,1\n1572,2472,1\n1573,2473,0\n1574,2475,3\n1575,2477,1\n1576,2478,4\n1577,2480,1\n1578,2482,4\n1579,2484,0\n1580,2486,1\n1581,2488,1\n1582,2490,0\n1583,2491,1\n1584,2492,2\n1585,2495,2\n1586,2498,0\n1587,2501,1\n1588,2503,0\n1589,2504,0\n1590,2506,0\n1591,2507,1\n1592,2508,3\n1593,2509,4\n1594,2510,0\n1595,2511,4\n1596,2512,1\n1597,2513,3\n1598,2514,0\n1599,2515,1\n1600,2516,1\n1601,2517,2\n1602,2518,3\n1603,2520,4\n1604,2521,3\n1605,2522,1\n1606,2524,2\n1607,2525,3\n1608,2526,4\n1609,2527,2\n1610,2528,2\n1611,2529,1\n1612,2530,4\n1613,2531,4\n1614,2532,0\n1615,2533,3\n1616,2536,3\n1617,2537,2\n1618,2538,3\n1619,2539,2\n1620,2542,2\n1621,2543,3\n1622,2545,4\n1623,2546,0\n1624,2547,0\n1625,2548,1\n1626,2549,3\n1627,2551,2\n1628,2552,1\n1629,2553,4\n1630,2554,1\n1631,2556,2\n1632,2557,1\n1633,2560,1\n1634,2561,1\n1635,2565,1\n1636,2566,1\n1637,2567,0\n1638,2568,4\n1639,2574,0\n1640,2576,3\n1641,2577,3\n1642,2578,1\n1643,2583,4\n1644,2586,1\n1645,2588,2\n1646,2590,0\n1647,2591,3\n1648,2593,4\n1649,2599,3\n1650,2600,2\n1651,2602,1\n1652,2605,4\n1653,2609,3\n1654,2612,1\n1655,2613,4\n1656,2614,0\n1657,2615,4\n1658,2620,4\n1659,2622,2\n1660,2623,4\n1661,2627,4\n1662,2628,0\n1663,2629,1\n1664,2632,1\n1665,2634,3\n1666,2635,0\n1667,2636,3\n1668,2637,2\n1669,2638,0\n1670,2639,3\n1671,2641,2\n1672,2643,1\n1673,2645,2\n1674,2646,3\n1675,2649,0\n1676,2650,0\n1677,2651,1\n1678,2652,2\n1679,2653,3\n1680,2654,3\n1681,2656,3\n1682,2659,0\n1683,2660,4\n1684,2661,0\n1685,2662,0\n1686,2664,0\n1687,2665,2\n1688,2671,0\n1689,2672,0\n1690,2674,1\n1691,2675,3\n1692,2677,1\n1693,2678,0\n1694,2679,2\n1695,2683,4\n1696,2686,4\n1697,2687,1\n1698,2689,1\n1699,2690,4\n1700,2692,2\n1701,2696,1\n1702,2697,1\n1703,2698,4\n1704,2700,3\n1705,2702,1\n1706,2704,3\n1707,2705,0\n1708,2706,2\n1709,2708,1\n1710,2709,4\n1711,2710,0\n1712,2711,4\n1713,2712,3\n1714,2714,2\n1715,2716,0\n1716,2718,1\n1717,2719,0\n1718,2720,1\n1719,2721,2\n1720,2722,0\n1721,2725,0\n1722,2726,0\n1723,2727,1\n1724,2728,3\n1725,2729,2\n1726,2730,4\n1727,2731,1\n1728,2732,1\n1729,2735,0\n1730,2737,2\n1731,2738,2\n1732,2739,0\n1733,2740,2\n1734,2742,2\n1735,2744,3\n1736,2746,1\n1737,2747,3\n1738,2749,4\n1739,2750,4\n1740,2751,4\n1741,2752,1\n1742,2754,4\n1743,2755,2\n1744,2759,4\n1745,2760,2\n1746,2762,3\n1747,2764,1\n1748,2768,1\n1749,2769,2\n1750,2771,0\n1751,2775,3\n1752,2776,3\n1753,2777,3\n1754,2778,0\n1755,2779,3\n1756,2782,3\n1757,2784,0\n1758,2786,1\n1759,2787,0\n1760,2790,0\n1761,2792,3\n1762,2796,0\n1763,2798,1\n1764,2799,0\n1765,2801,3\n1766,2803,2\n1767,2804,1\n1768,2807,0\n1769,2808,0\n1770,2812,3\n1771,2813,3\n1772,2814,1\n1773,2815,3\n1774,2817,1\n1775,2818,0\n1776,2819,0\n1777,2822,4\n1778,2823,4\n1779,2824,0\n1780,2827,2\n1781,2830,3\n1782,2831,4\n1783,2834,2\n1784,2835,3\n1785,2836,4\n1786,2838,1\n1787,2839,0\n1788,2840,0\n1789,2841,3\n1790,2843,0\n1791,2845,3\n1792,2846,3\n1793,2847,2\n1794,2848,4\n1795,2851,0\n1796,2853,2\n1797,2854,3\n1798,2856,2\n1799,2857,2\n1800,2858,3\n1801,2859,2\n1802,2860,0\n1803,2861,2\n1804,2863,3\n1805,2864,0\n1806,2866,1\n1807,2867,0\n1808,2869,2\n1809,2870,0\n1810,2873,3\n1811,2874,3\n1812,2875,1\n1813,2876,0\n1814,2878,2\n1815,2880,1\n1816,2881,0\n1817,2883,3\n1818,2884,4\n1819,2887,4\n1820,2888,4\n1821,2890,3\n1822,2891,1\n1823,2892,1\n1824,2893,1\n1825,2894,4\n1826,2896,3\n1827,2898,1\n1828,2899,4\n1829,2900,1\n1830,2901,3\n1831,2902,2\n1832,2908,0\n1833,2910,2\n1834,2911,3\n1835,2913,1\n1836,2914,4\n1837,2915,3\n1838,2916,3\n1839,2918,3\n1840,2919,0\n1841,2921,1\n1842,2923,4\n1843,2925,4\n1844,2926,3\n1845,2927,4\n1846,2928,3\n1847,2930,3\n1848,2932,1\n1849,2933,2\n1850,2934,0\n1851,2937,4\n1852,2938,0\n1853,2940,3\n1854,2945,2\n1855,2947,2\n1856,2948,2\n1857,2952,3\n1858,2953,4\n1859,2954,0\n1860,2955,3\n1861,2956,3\n1862,2959,4\n1863,2960,2\n1864,2962,4\n1865,2963,0\n1866,2964,4\n1867,2965,4\n1868,2966,0\n1869,2970,2\n1870,2971,4\n1871,2972,0\n1872,2973,3\n1873,2974,3\n1874,2975,4\n1875,2978,4\n1876,2979,1\n1877,2980,0\n1878,2981,1\n1879,2982,1\n1880,2984,3\n1881,2988,4\n1882,2992,3\n1883,2993,3\n1884,2995,1\n1885,2999,3\n1886,3001,4\n1887,3002,0\n1888,3005,2\n1889,3009,3\n1890,3010,4\n1891,3011,3\n1892,3012,4\n1893,3014,1\n1894,3016,2\n1895,3017,2\n1896,3018,0\n1897,3019,3\n1898,3020,4\n1899,3023,1\n1900,3027,3\n1901,3029,4\n1902,3030,2\n1903,3035,2\n1904,3036,4\n1905,3037,4\n1906,3038,0\n1907,3039,0\n1908,3040,1\n1909,3041,0\n1910,3042,2\n1911,3043,4\n1912,3044,3\n1913,3045,2\n1914,3046,1\n1915,3047,3\n1916,3048,0\n1917,3051,1\n1918,3054,4\n1919,3056,4\n1920,3057,1\n1921,3058,2\n1922,3059,3\n1923,3063,1\n1924,3066,2\n1925,3071,0\n1926,3072,1\n1927,3073,2\n1928,3074,0\n1929,3076,1\n1930,3077,0\n1931,3078,0\n1932,3079,2\n1933,3081,3\n1934,3083,4\n1935,3086,3\n1936,3088,4\n1937,3090,1\n1938,3091,4\n1939,3092,0\n1940,3093,3\n1941,3095,4\n1942,3096,4\n1943,3098,0\n1944,3099,3\n1945,3100,1\n1946,3103,4\n1947,3105,0\n1948,3106,3\n1949,3108,1\n1950,3109,2\n1951,3110,2\n1952,3111,4\n1953,3112,1\n1954,3113,1\n1955,3114,2\n1956,3117,4\n1957,3118,0\n1958,3119,0\n1959,3122,3\n1960,3124,3\n1961,3125,2\n1962,3126,3\n1963,3127,4\n1964,3128,4\n1965,3129,0\n1966,3131,0\n1967,3133,1\n1968,3134,2\n1969,3137,3\n1970,3138,4\n1971,3139,1\n1972,3142,3\n1973,3143,1\n1974,3146,1\n1975,3147,3\n1976,3148,3\n1977,3151,3\n1978,3152,0\n1979,3153,3\n1980,3154,4\n1981,3158,4\n1982,3159,4\n1983,3160,2\n1984,3161,1\n1985,3163,0\n1986,3164,2\n1987,3165,1\n1988,3168,3\n1989,3169,3\n1990,3172,2\n1991,3179,1\n1992,3180,0\n1993,3185,4\n1994,3186,3\n1995,3187,0\n1996,3189,2\n1997,3190,0\n1998,3191,3\n1999,3192,1\n2000,3193,4\n2001,3195,2\n2002,3196,3\n2003,3197,4\n2004,3198,2\n2005,3200,1\n2006,3201,3\n2007,3202,1\n2008,3203,1\n2009,3204,1\n2010,3206,3\n2011,3208,4\n2012,3209,2\n2013,3211,0\n2014,3212,4\n2015,3213,1\n2016,3216,3\n2017,3217,4\n2018,3218,2\n2019,3219,3\n2020,3221,3\n2021,3223,4\n2022,3225,3\n2023,3226,0\n2024,3227,0\n2025,3230,0\n2026,3231,2\n2027,3232,0\n2028,3234,1\n2029,3235,2\n2030,3236,3\n2031,3237,2\n2032,3239,0\n2033,3240,1\n2034,3241,1\n2035,3243,4\n2036,3244,0\n2037,3245,2\n2038,3246,3\n2039,3247,0\n2040,3249,2\n2041,3251,0\n2042,3254,0\n2043,3256,3\n2044,3258,1\n2045,3259,0\n2046,3260,4\n2047,3264,2\n2048,3266,0\n2049,3267,0\n2050,3269,2\n2051,3271,4\n2052,3272,4\n2053,3273,3\n2054,3274,3\n2055,3276,0\n2056,3278,1\n2057,3279,0\n2058,3280,3\n2059,3281,0\n2060,3282,0\n2061,3284,1\n2062,3285,4\n2063,3286,3\n2064,3289,3\n2065,3293,0\n2066,3294,2\n2067,3295,4\n2068,3297,4\n2069,3298,0\n2070,3299,2\n2071,3301,2\n2072,3302,3\n2073,3303,3\n2074,3304,1\n2075,3306,4\n2076,3307,3\n2077,3308,1\n2078,3309,1\n2079,3311,1\n2080,3312,0\n2081,3314,0\n2082,3315,2\n2083,3317,4\n2084,3318,4\n2085,3321,0\n2086,3323,2\n2087,3325,3\n2088,3326,0\n2089,3327,1\n2090,3328,2\n2091,3332,2\n2092,3333,4\n2093,3334,0\n2094,3335,3\n2095,3337,4\n2096,3338,3\n2097,3339,0\n2098,3340,2\n2099,3341,4\n2100,3342,1\n2101,3344,0\n2102,3346,0\n2103,3347,1\n2104,3349,3\n2105,3350,1\n2106,3351,2\n2107,3353,1\n2108,3356,2\n2109,3357,0\n2110,3358,2\n2111,3359,1\n2112,3361,1\n2113,3362,4\n2114,3367,3\n2115,3368,2\n2116,3369,1\n2117,3371,2\n2118,3373,1\n2119,3374,2\n2120,3376,4\n2121,3377,3\n2122,3379,1\n2123,3380,1\n2124,3382,0\n2125,3384,3\n2126,3385,3\n2127,3387,3\n2128,3388,3\n2129,3389,4\n2130,3393,3\n2131,3394,3\n2132,3396,2\n2133,3397,2\n2134,3400,3\n2135,3401,0\n2136,3402,1\n2137,3404,4\n2138,3406,0\n2139,3407,1\n2140,3408,2\n2141,3411,3\n2142,3413,1\n2143,3415,4\n2144,3416,0\n2145,3417,3\n2146,3418,2\n2147,3419,3\n2148,3423,1\n2149,3425,2\n2150,3427,3\n2151,3429,0\n2152,3430,0\n2153,3431,3\n2154,3433,3\n2155,3435,3\n2156,3436,2\n2157,3438,4\n2158,3441,0\n2159,3443,4\n2160,3444,4\n2161,3446,2\n2162,3447,0\n2163,3449,4\n2164,3452,0\n2165,3453,3\n2166,3454,1\n2167,3455,0\n2168,3457,1\n2169,3458,2\n2170,3460,0\n2171,3462,3\n2172,3464,3\n2173,3465,0\n2174,3466,3\n2175,3467,4\n2176,3468,1\n2177,3469,1\n2178,3470,0\n2179,3471,1\n2180,3473,4\n2181,3474,4\n2182,3475,4\n2183,3476,0\n2184,3477,1\n2185,3479,2\n2186,3481,1\n2187,3482,4\n2188,3485,4\n2189,3486,4\n2190,3487,4\n2191,3489,4\n2192,3490,0\n2193,3492,4\n2194,3495,4\n2195,3498,2\n2196,3500,4\n2197,3501,2\n2198,3505,0\n2199,3506,1\n2200,3507,4\n2201,3508,3\n2202,3509,2\n2203,3510,0\n2204,3511,3\n2205,3513,4\n2206,3514,3\n2207,3515,4\n2208,3516,2\n2209,3518,4\n2210,3519,1\n2211,3521,1\n2212,3522,3\n2213,3523,0\n2214,3528,1\n2215,3529,4\n2216,3530,3\n2217,3531,1\n2218,3537,1\n2219,3538,3\n2220,3539,1\n2221,3540,0\n2222,3541,4\n2223,3546,2\n2224,3547,2\n2225,3549,4\n2226,3550,2\n2227,3551,3\n2228,3552,0\n2229,3553,2\n2230,3556,0\n2231,3557,3\n2232,3559,4\n2233,3562,4\n2234,3563,1\n2235,3565,0\n2236,3566,1\n2237,3567,2\n2238,3568,1\n2239,3569,4\n2240,3570,4\n2241,3571,0\n2242,3573,3\n2243,3575,1\n2244,3578,3\n2245,3580,0\n2246,3581,0\n2247,3582,0\n2248,3584,3\n2249,3586,4\n2250,3587,0\n2251,3588,3\n2252,3590,0\n2253,3591,1\n2254,3593,1\n2255,3595,1\n2256,3597,1\n2257,3598,3\n2258,3600,0\n2259,3601,0\n2260,3602,1\n2261,3604,1\n2262,3605,0\n2263,3607,0\n2264,3608,3\n2265,3609,1\n2266,3611,3\n2267,3612,3\n2268,3615,4\n2269,3616,3\n2270,3617,1\n2271,3619,1\n2272,3620,4\n2273,3622,0\n2274,3623,0\n2275,3624,4\n2276,3625,2\n2277,3627,2\n2278,3630,3\n2279,3631,0\n2280,3634,2\n2281,3636,1\n2282,3637,3\n2283,3639,4\n2284,3640,1\n2285,3641,0\n2286,3643,4\n2287,3644,2\n2288,3646,1\n2289,3647,3\n2290,3649,1\n2291,3651,3\n2292,3652,1\n2293,3653,3\n2294,3657,4\n2295,3659,2\n2296,3660,1\n2297,3661,2\n2298,3662,4\n2299,3663,4\n2300,3664,3\n2301,3665,1\n2302,3666,1\n2303,3667,4\n2304,3670,4\n2305,3674,1\n2306,3677,4\n2307,3679,0\n2308,3680,0\n2309,3683,0\n2310,3686,0\n2311,3687,3\n2312,3688,1\n2313,3690,2\n2314,3691,4\n2315,3692,0\n2316,3694,0\n2317,3695,0\n2318,3697,0\n2319,3701,0\n2320,3702,4\n2321,3703,3\n2322,3704,0\n2323,3705,1\n2324,3706,0\n2325,3707,0\n2326,3709,4\n2327,3710,2\n2328,3711,2\n2329,3712,0\n2330,3714,4\n2331,3715,4\n2332,3716,0\n2333,3717,1\n2334,3719,1\n2335,3722,0\n2336,3724,2\n2337,3725,4\n2338,3727,1\n2339,3728,4\n2340,3729,2\n2341,3731,1\n2342,3732,2\n2343,3733,2\n2344,3735,1\n2345,3739,2\n2346,3740,3\n2347,3742,4\n2348,3744,2\n2349,3746,0\n2350,3747,1\n2351,3748,4\n2352,3749,2\n2353,3750,2\n2354,3752,1\n2355,3753,4\n2356,3756,0\n2357,3759,3\n2358,3760,2\n2359,3761,3\n2360,3762,3\n2361,3764,1\n2362,3766,2\n2363,3768,4\n2364,3769,3\n2365,3771,2\n2366,3772,3\n2367,3773,3\n2368,3774,4\n2369,3776,0\n2370,3779,1\n2371,3781,4\n2372,3782,4\n2373,3783,4\n2374,3784,2\n2375,3786,0\n2376,3788,0\n2377,3789,4\n2378,3790,2\n2379,3791,3\n2380,3792,1\n2381,3795,2\n2382,3797,2\n2383,3802,0\n2384,3804,4\n2385,3805,4\n2386,3806,2\n2387,3807,4\n2388,3811,4\n2389,3812,4\n2390,3815,4\n2391,3816,4\n2392,3817,1\n2393,3820,4\n2394,3821,0\n2395,3824,3\n2396,3825,3\n2397,3826,3\n2398,3828,0\n2399,3829,0\n2400,3831,4\n2401,3832,3\n2402,3834,3\n2403,3836,1\n2404,3837,0\n2405,3840,4\n2406,3842,0\n2407,3843,1\n2408,3844,3\n2409,3845,1\n2410,3846,4\n2411,3847,0\n2412,3849,0\n2413,3851,4\n2414,3852,1\n2415,3853,2\n2416,3855,3\n2417,3856,4\n2418,3857,2\n2419,3858,1\n2420,3859,2\n2421,3861,4\n2422,3862,4\n2423,3864,0\n2424,3865,4\n2425,3866,1\n2426,3867,1\n2427,3868,0\n2428,3873,0\n2429,3874,3\n2430,3875,2\n2431,3878,4\n2432,3880,1\n2433,3882,4\n2434,3883,2\n2435,3884,2\n2436,3886,3\n2437,3889,4\n2438,3890,4\n2439,3892,0\n2440,3895,3\n2441,3896,3\n2442,3899,4\n2443,3900,3\n2444,3902,1\n2445,3903,2\n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n9052,2\n9053,2\n9054,4\n9055,4\n9056,2\n9057,3\n9058,2\n9059,3\n9060,0\n9062,2\n9063,0\n9064,1\n9066,2\n9068,1\n9071,2\n9072,4\n9073,4\n9074,4\n9077,0\n9079,3\n9081,2\n9082,2\n9083,4\n9084,0\n9085,3\n9086,2\n9087,1\n9088,4\n9089,1\n9090,3\n9091,1\n9092,2\n9094,4\n9095,2\n9096,2\n9097,0\n9099,4\n9100,2\n9101,3\n9106,2\n9108,2\n9112,0\n9115,4\n9121,1\n9124,4\n9125,2\n9126,3\n9127,4\n9128,4\n9129,2\n9131,0\n9133,0\n9134,1\n9135,0\n9137,0\n9138,4\n9139,3\n9145,4\n9146,4\n9147,0\n9148,1\n9150,4\n9151,4\n9152,2\n9153,1\n9154,4\n9155,2\n9156,2\n9159,2\n9161,0\n9163,0\n9164,4\n9166,2\n9167,0\n9169,3\n9170,4\n9171,0\n9173,2\n9175,3\n9176,4\n9177,3\n9179,4\n9180,1\n9181,0\n9182,1\n9183,1\n9185,0\n9187,4\n9188,4\n9189,4\n9190,2\n9192,2\n9193,4\n9197,3\n9199,1\n9200,3\n9201,1\n9202,1\n9203,0\n9204,2\n9205,4\n9206,3\n9208,1\n9209,0\n9212,2\n9216,0\n9218,2\n9219,0\n9220,0\n9224,2\n9226,3\n9229,3\n9230,1\n9231,3\n9232,4\n9233,4\n9234,3\n9235,3\n9236,3\n9239,2\n9244,4\n9246,3\n9247,3\n9248,2\n9249,3\n9250,1\n9251,4\n9252,0\n9253,1\n9254,1\n9255,3\n9258,3\n9261,0\n9262,0\n9264,3\n9265,4\n9266,3\n9267,2\n9268,0\n9269,2\n9270,2\n9272,1\n9273,1\n9274,2\n9276,1\n9277,3\n9278,1\n9279,4\n9280,3\n9281,4\n9282,3\n9283,1\n9284,1\n9285,4\n9287,4\n9289,1\n9290,0\n9295,3\n9296,2\n9299,4\n9300,1\n9301,3\n9306,0\n9309,0\n9310,1\n9311,1\n9312,0\n9313,1\n9316,4\n9317,3\n9318,3\n9319,2\n9320,3\n9321,2\n9322,4\n9327,0\n9329,4\n9330,3\n9331,4\n9332,1\n9333,4\n9334,2\n9335,2\n9336,0\n9341,4\n9342,4\n9343,1\n9345,1\n9346,2\n9347,0\n9348,2\n9349,2\n9351,2\n9357,0\n9358,0\n9359,0\n9360,4\n9362,0\n9363,3\n9366,4\n9367,4\n9368,3\n9369,2\n9370,3\n9371,0\n9373,1\n9374,4\n9375,1\n9377,4\n9378,4\n9379,2\n9380,3\n9382,2\n9383,4\n9386,1\n9387,0\n9390,4\n9393,0\n9396,1\n9399,4\n9401,1\n9402,2\n9403,3\n9404,1\n9405,3\n9406,0\n9407,0\n9411,4\n9412,0\n9415,2\n9416,4\n9417,1\n9418,1\n9420,0\n9421,0\n9423,3\n9424,1\n9425,0\n9427,1\n9428,1\n9430,2\n9432,2\n9433,4\n9435,1\n9436,4\n9437,4\n9442,4\n9444,3\n9445,0\n9446,2\n9449,2\n9450,0\n9451,4\n9452,0\n9456,4\n9458,1\n9460,4\n9464,2\n9465,4\n9467,2\n9470,0\n9471,4\n9473,0\n9474,2\n9475,2\n9477,1\n9479,1\n9480,3\n9481,0\n9482,3\n9484,0\n9486,2\n9487,2\n9489,4\n9490,0\n9491,0\n9492,0\n9494,4\n9495,4\n9498,0\n9499,2\n9501,1\n9505,2\n9506,3\n9507,0\n9509,2\n9511,0\n9512,0\n9514,3\n9521,1\n9522,0\n9524,1\n9525,3\n9526,2\n9527,0\n9528,4\n9529,0\n9530,4\n9531,3\n9537,3\n9538,1\n9539,4\n9542,2\n9546,3\n9549,0\n9550,2\n9551,3\n9552,0\n9554,0\n9555,0\n9556,2\n9557,4\n9559,2\n9561,0\n9562,4\n9563,0\n9564,1\n9565,3\n9566,2\n9572,0\n9574,2\n9576,0\n9577,3\n9579,4\n9580,3\n9582,0\n9583,4\n9584,3\n9585,4\n9586,2\n9587,0\n9588,0\n9589,0\n9592,0\n9594,4\n9596,4\n9598,3\n9599,2\n9603,4\n9606,0\n9607,4\n9608,1\n9609,2\n9611,2\n9612,1\n9613,0\n9614,1\n9615,2\n9616,0\n9618,0\n9619,4\n9620,3\n9622,2\n9624,1\n9626,0\n9627,4\n9631,2\n9634,4\n9635,0\n9636,2\n9638,4\n9641,4\n9642,1\n9643,2\n9645,1\n9646,2\n9647,1\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model1_bert_code/data/make_folds.py", "content": "import pandas as pd\nimport functools\nimport operator\nfrom tqdm import tqdm\nfrom sklearn.preprocessing import LabelEncoder\nfrom skmultilearn.model_selection import IterativeStratification\nfrom multiprocessing import Pool, cpu_count\n\nfrom utils import transform_target_columns_to_ordinals\n\n\ndef rareness_split(train_df, least_representative_cols=(\"question_type_spelling\",)):\n rarity_mask = []\n for col in least_representative_cols:\n most_common_value = (\n train_df[col].value_counts().sort_values(ascending=False).index[0]\n )\n rarity_mask.append(train_df[col] != most_common_value)\n rarity_mask = functools.reduce(operator.or_, rarity_mask)\n\n rare_samples = train_df[rarity_mask]\n common_samples = train_df[~rarity_mask]\n\n return common_samples, rare_samples\n\n\ndef aggregate_ordinals(group, agg_func=pd.Series.mode):\n group_id, group_labels = group\n group_labels.drop(labels=[\"group_id\"], axis=1, inplace=True)\n\n agg_group_labels = group_labels.apply(agg_func, axis=0).iloc[0]\n agg_group_labels = agg_group_labels.rename(group_id)\n return agg_group_labels\n\n\ndef stratified_fold_split_for_common(\n common_samples,\n n_splits=5,\n interaction_order=1,\n random_state=42,\n agg_func=pd.Series.mode,\n):\n body_encoder = LabelEncoder()\n common_samples[\"group_id\"] = body_encoder.fit_transform(\n common_samples[\"question_body\"].astype(str)\n )\n\n common_ordinals = transform_target_columns_to_ordinals(common_samples)\n common_ordinals[\"group_id\"] = common_samples[\"group_id\"]\n\n common_groups = common_ordinals.groupby([\"group_id\"])\n with Pool(cpu_count()) as pool:\n aggregated_common_ordinals = list(\n tqdm(\n pool.imap(\n functools.partial(aggregate_ordinals, agg_func=agg_func),\n common_groups,\n ),\n total=len(common_groups),\n desc=\"Aggregate ordinals over groups\",\n )\n )\n aggregated_common_ordinals = pd.concat(\n aggregated_common_ordinals, axis=1\n ).transpose()\n aggregated_common_ordinals.index.rename(\"group_id\", inplace=True)\n\n k_fold = IterativeStratification(\n n_splits=n_splits, order=interaction_order, random_state=random_state\n )\n folds_common = []\n for _, fold_groups in k_fold.split(\n aggregated_common_ordinals, aggregated_common_ordinals\n ):\n fold_mask = common_ordinals[\"group_id\"].isin(fold_groups)\n fold_ids = common_ordinals.index.values[fold_mask]\n folds_common.append(fold_ids)\n\n return folds_common\n\n\ndef stratified_fold_split_for_rare(\n rare_samples,\n n_splits=5,\n interaction_order=1,\n random_state=42,\n least_representative_cols=(\"question_type_spelling\",),\n):\n rare_ordinals = transform_target_columns_to_ordinals(\n rare_samples[list(least_representative_cols)]\n )\n\n k_fold = IterativeStratification(\n n_splits=n_splits, order=interaction_order, random_state=random_state\n )\n folds_rare = []\n for _, fold_ids in k_fold.split(rare_ordinals, rare_ordinals):\n folds_rare.append(rare_samples.index.values[fold_ids])\n return folds_rare\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model1_bert_code/data/sampler.py", "content": "from torch.utils.data import Sampler\nimport torch\n\n\nclass UniformRandomSampler(Sampler):\n def __init__(self, data_source, num_samples: int = None):\n self.data_source = data_source\n self._num_samples = num_samples\n self._state = torch.randperm(len(data_source)).tolist()\n\n @property\n def num_samples(self):\n if self._num_samples is None:\n return len(self.data_source)\n return self._num_samples\n\n def __iter__(self):\n n = len(self.data_source)\n if len(self._state) < self.num_samples + 1:\n self._state += torch.randperm(n).tolist()\n output, self._state = (\n self._state[: self.num_samples],\n self._state[self.num_samples :],\n )\n return iter(output)\n\n def __len__(self):\n return self.num_samples\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model1_bert_code/metrics.py", "content": "import numpy as np\nimport pandas as pd\nfrom scipy.stats import spearmanr\nfrom poutyne.framework.metrics import EpochMetric\nfrom poutyne.framework.callbacks import Callback\nfrom poutyne.utils import torch_to_numpy\n\n\ndef spearman_metric(y_true, y_pred, return_scores=False, colnames=None):\n corr = [\n spearmanr(pred_col, target_col).correlation\n for pred_col, target_col in zip(y_pred.T, y_true.T)\n ]\n if colnames is not None:\n return pd.Series(corr, index=colnames)\n if return_scores:\n return corr\n else:\n return np.nanmean(corr)\n\n\nclass Spearman(EpochMetric):\n class SpearmanCallback(Callback):\n def __init__(self):\n self.metric_values = dict()\n\n def on_epoch_end(self, epoch, logs):\n logs.update(self.metric_values)\n\n def __init__(self, colnames=None):\n super(Spearman, self).__init__()\n self.__name__ = \"spearman\"\n self.preds, self.targets = [], []\n\n self.colnames = colnames\n self.callback = self.SpearmanCallback()\n\n def forward(self, y_pred, y_true):\n self.preds.append(torch_to_numpy(y_pred))\n self.targets.append(torch_to_numpy(y_true))\n\n def get_metric(self):\n corr = spearman_metric(\n np.vstack(self.targets), np.vstack(self.preds), return_scores=True\n )\n\n if self.colnames is not None:\n self.callback.metric_values = dict(zip(self.colnames, corr))\n\n self.preds, self.targets = [], []\n return np.mean(corr)\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model1_bert_code/models.py", "content": "import torch\nfrom torch import nn\nimport transformers\n\nfrom bert import BertPreTrainedModel, BertModel\nfrom transformers import AlbertPreTrainedModel, AlbertModel, RobertaModel\n\n\nclass BertForQuestRegression(BertPreTrainedModel):\n def __init__(self, config, head_dropout=None):\n super(BertForQuestRegression, self).__init__(config)\n self.config = config\n self.num_labels = config.num_labels\n if head_dropout is None:\n head_dropout = config.hidden_dropout_prob\n\n self.bert = BertModel(config)\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(head_dropout)\n self.classifier = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, self.config.num_labels)\n\n self.init_weights()\n\n def forward(\n self,\n input_ids,\n attention_mask=None,\n token_type_ids=None,\n position_ids=None,\n head_mask=None,\n ):\n outputs = self.bert(\n input_ids,\n position_ids=position_ids,\n token_type_ids=token_type_ids,\n attention_mask=attention_mask,\n head_mask=head_mask,\n )\n sequence_output = outputs[0]\n pooled_output = torch.mean(sequence_output, dim=1)\n\n pooled_output = self.dropout(pooled_output)\n logits = self.classifier(pooled_output)\n\n return logits\n\n def load(self, checkpoint, strict=True, **cfg_args):\n self.config.__dict__.update(cfg_args)\n self.__init__(self.config)\n\n state_dict = torch.load(checkpoint)\n return self.load_state_dict(state_dict, strict=strict)\n\n\nclass RobertaForQuestRegression(BertPreTrainedModel):\n def __init__(self, config):\n super(RobertaForQuestRegression, self).__init__(config)\n self.config = config\n self.num_labels = config.num_labels\n\n self.roberta = RobertaModel(config)\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(config.hidden_dropout_prob)\n self.classifier = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, self.config.num_labels)\n\n def forward(\n self,\n input_ids,\n attention_mask=None,\n token_type_ids=None,\n position_ids=None,\n head_mask=None,\n ):\n outputs = self.roberta(\n input_ids,\n position_ids=position_ids,\n token_type_ids=token_type_ids,\n attention_mask=attention_mask,\n head_mask=head_mask,\n )\n sequence_output = outputs[0]\n pooled_output = torch.mean(sequence_output, dim=1)\n\n pooled_output = self.dropout(pooled_output)\n logits = self.classifier(pooled_output)\n\n return logits\n\n def load(self, checkpoint, strict=True, **cfg_args):\n self.config.__dict__.update(cfg_args)\n self.__init__(self.config)\n\n state_dict = torch.load(checkpoint)\n return self.load_state_dict(state_dict, strict=strict)\n\n\nclass CustomBert(transformers.BertPreTrainedModel):\n def __init__(self, config):\n config.output_hidden_states = True\n super(CustomBert, self).__init__(config)\n self.num_labels = config.num_labels\n self.bert = BertModel(config)\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(p=0.2)\n self.high_dropout = nn.Dropout(p=0.5)\n\n n_weights = config.num_hidden_layers + 1\n weights_init = torch.zeros(n_weights).float()\n weights_init.data[:-1] = -3\n self.layer_weights = torch.nn.Parameter(weights_init)\n\n self.classifier = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, self.config.num_labels)\n\n self.init_weights()\n\n def forward(\n self,\n input_ids=None,\n attention_mask=None,\n token_type_ids=None,\n position_ids=None,\n head_mask=None,\n inputs_embeds=None,\n ):\n outputs = self.bert(\n input_ids,\n attention_mask=attention_mask,\n token_type_ids=token_type_ids,\n position_ids=position_ids,\n )\n\n hidden_layers = outputs[2]\n\n cls_outputs = torch.stack(\n [self.dropout(layer[:, 0, :]) for layer in hidden_layers], dim=2\n )\n cls_output = (torch.softmax(self.layer_weights, dim=0) * cls_outputs).sum(-1)\n\n # multisample dropout (wut): https://arxiv.org/abs/1905.09788\n logits = torch.mean(\n torch.stack(\n [self.classifier(self.high_dropout(cls_output)) for _ in range(5)],\n dim=0,\n ),\n dim=0,\n )\n\n return logits\n\n\ndef get_optimizer(model, learning_rate, backbone_prefix=\"bert\"):\n params = list(model.named_parameters())\n\n def is_backbone(name):\n return backbone_prefix in name\n\n optimizer_grouped_parameters = [\n {\"params\": [p for n, p in params if is_backbone(n)], \"lr\": learning_rate},\n {\n \"params\": [p for n, p in params if not is_backbone(n)],\n \"lr\": learning_rate * 500,\n },\n ]\n\n optimizer = torch.optim.AdamW(\n optimizer_grouped_parameters, lr=learning_rate, weight_decay=0\n )\n\n return optimizer\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model1_bert_code/predict_test.py", "content": "import argparse\nimport numpy as np\nimport pandas as pd\nimport torch\nfrom pathlib import Path\nfrom torch import nn\nfrom torch.utils.data import Dataset, DataLoader\nfrom tqdm import tqdm\nfrom transformers import BertPreTrainedModel, BertModel, BertConfig, BertTokenizer\nfrom typing import List, Text\n\n\nclass BertForQuestRegression(BertPreTrainedModel):\n def __init__(self, config, head_dropout=None):\n super(BertForQuestRegression, self).__init__(config)\n self.config = config\n self.num_labels = config.num_labels\n if head_dropout is None:\n head_dropout = config.hidden_dropout_prob\n\n self.bert = BertModel(config)\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(head_dropout)\n self.classifier = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, self.config.num_labels)\n\n self.init_weights()\n\n def forward(\n self,\n input_ids,\n attention_mask=None,\n token_type_ids=None,\n position_ids=None,\n head_mask=None,\n ):\n outputs = self.bert(\n input_ids,\n position_ids=position_ids,\n token_type_ids=token_type_ids,\n attention_mask=attention_mask,\n head_mask=head_mask,\n )\n sequence_output = outputs[0]\n pooled_output = torch.mean(sequence_output, dim=1)\n\n pooled_output = self.dropout(pooled_output)\n logits = self.classifier(pooled_output)\n\n return logits\n\n def load(self, checkpoint, strict=True, **cfg_args):\n self.config.__dict__.update(cfg_args)\n self.__init__(self.config)\n\n state_dict = torch.load(checkpoint)\n return self.load_state_dict(state_dict, strict=strict)\n\n\nQUESTION_TARGETS = [\n \"question_asker_intent_understanding\",\n \"question_body_critical\",\n \"question_conversational\",\n \"question_expect_short_answer\",\n \"question_fact_seeking\",\n \"question_has_commonly_accepted_answer\",\n \"question_interestingness_others\",\n \"question_interestingness_self\",\n \"question_multi_intent\",\n \"question_not_really_a_question\",\n \"question_opinion_seeking\",\n \"question_type_choice\",\n \"question_type_compare\",\n \"question_type_consequence\",\n \"question_type_definition\",\n \"question_type_entity\",\n \"question_type_instructions\",\n \"question_type_procedure\",\n \"question_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"question_type_spelling\",\n \"question_well_written\",\n]\nANSWER_TARGETS = [\n \"answer_helpful\",\n \"answer_level_of_information\",\n \"answer_plausible\",\n \"answer_relevance\",\n \"answer_satisfaction\",\n \"answer_type_instructions\",\n \"answer_type_procedure\",\n \"answer_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"answer_well_written\",\n]\nALL_TARGETS = QUESTION_TARGETS + ANSWER_TARGETS\n\n\nclass QuestDataset(Dataset):\n def __init__(\n self,\n data_df,\n tokenizer,\n max_seg_length=256,\n target_cols=\"all_targets\",\n answer_ratio=0.5,\n title_ratio=0.5,\n use_title=True,\n use_body=True,\n use_answer=True,\n title_col=\"question_title\",\n body_col=\"question_body\",\n answer_col=\"answer\",\n title_transform=None,\n body_transform=None,\n answer_transform=None,\n ):\n self.tokenizer: PreTrainedTokenizer = tokenizer\n self.max_seg_length = max_seg_length\n self.target_cols = (\n QUESTION_TARGETS + ANSWER_TARGETS\n if target_cols is \"all_targets\"\n else target_cols\n )\n self.answer_ratio = answer_ratio\n self.title_ratio = title_ratio\n\n if target_cols is not None:\n if target_cols is \"all_targets\":\n target_cols = ALL_TARGETS\n self.targets = data_df[target_cols].values\n\n self.question_title = data_df[title_col].values if use_title else None\n self.question_body = data_df[body_col].values if use_body else None\n self.answer = data_df[answer_col].values if use_answer else None\n\n self.title_transform = title_transform\n self.body_transform = body_transform\n self.answer_transform = answer_transform\n\n def _encode_segments(self, *text_segments: List[Text]) -> List[List[int]]:\n # if self.transform is not None:\n # text_segments = [self.transform(txt) for txt in text_segments]\n return [\n self.tokenizer.encode(\n txt, max_length=self.max_seg_length, add_special_tokens=False\n )\n if txt is not None\n else []\n for txt in text_segments\n ]\n\n def _process(self, title=None, body=None, answer=None):\n input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids = self._prepare_features(\n title, body, answer\n )\n\n input_ids = self._pad_and_truncate(\n input_ids, pad_value=self.tokenizer.pad_token_id\n )\n token_type_ids = self._pad_and_truncate(\n token_type_ids, pad_value=token_type_ids[-1]\n )\n attention_mask = self._pad_and_truncate(attention_mask, pad_value=0)\n return input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids\n\n def _pad_and_truncate(self, features, pad_value=0):\n features = list(features[: self.max_seg_length])\n features = features + [pad_value,] * (self.max_seg_length - len(features))\n features = np.array(features)\n return features\n\n @staticmethod\n def _balance_segments(\n first_segment_length, second_segment_length, second_ratio, max_length\n ):\n first_segment_length = min(\n first_segment_length,\n (1 - second_ratio) * max_length\n + max(second_ratio * max_length - second_segment_length, 0),\n )\n\n second_segment_length = min(\n second_segment_length,\n second_ratio * max_length\n + max((1 - second_ratio) * max_length - first_segment_length, 0),\n )\n\n return int(first_segment_length), int(second_segment_length)\n\n def _prepare_features(self, title, body, answer):\n title_input_ids, body_input_ids, answer_input_ids = self._encode_segments(\n title, body, answer\n )\n\n title_length = len(title_input_ids)\n body_length = len(body_input_ids)\n answer_length = len(answer_input_ids)\n\n question_length, answer_length = self._balance_segments(\n title_length + body_length,\n answer_length,\n self.answer_ratio,\n self.max_seg_length,\n )\n\n title_length, body_length = self._balance_segments(\n title_length, body_length, self.title_ratio, question_length\n )\n\n # TODO: generalize this\n question_input_ids = body_input_ids[:body_length]\n if title_length > 0:\n question_input_ids = (\n title_input_ids[:title_length]\n + [self.tokenizer.sep_token_id]\n + question_input_ids\n )\n answer_input_ids = answer_input_ids[:answer_length]\n\n input_ids = self.tokenizer.build_inputs_with_special_tokens(\n question_input_ids, answer_input_ids if answer_length > 0 else None\n )\n token_type_ids = self.tokenizer.create_token_type_ids_from_sequences(\n question_input_ids, answer_input_ids\n )\n attention_mask = [1.0] * len(input_ids)\n\n return input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids\n\n def _get_text(self, index):\n title = self.question_title[index] if self.question_title is not None else None\n body = self.question_body[index] if self.question_body is not None else None\n answer = self.answer[index] if self.answer is not None else None\n\n def apply_transform(txt, transform):\n if transform is not None:\n return transform(txt, idx=index)\n else:\n return txt\n\n title, body, answer = [\n apply_transform(txt, transform)\n for txt, transform in zip(\n [title, body, answer],\n [self.title_transform, self.body_transform, self.answer_transform],\n )\n ]\n\n return title, body, answer\n\n def __getitem__(self, index):\n title, body, answer = self._get_text(index)\n\n input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids = self._process(title, body, answer)\n targets = self.targets[index]\n\n input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids = map(\n torch.LongTensor, [input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids]\n )\n targets = torch.FloatTensor(targets)\n\n return (input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids), targets\n\n def __len__(self):\n if self.answer is not None:\n return len(self.answer)\n elif self.question_title is not None:\n return len(self.question_title)\n else:\n return len(self.question_body)\n\n\nclass TestQuestDataset(QuestDataset):\n def __init__(\n self,\n data_df,\n tokenizer,\n max_seg_length=512,\n answer_ratio=0.5,\n title_ratio=0.5,\n use_title=True,\n use_body=True,\n use_answer=True,\n title_col=\"question_title\",\n body_col=\"question_body\",\n answer_col=\"answer\",\n ):\n super(TestQuestDataset, self).__init__(\n data_df=data_df,\n tokenizer=tokenizer,\n max_seg_length=max_seg_length,\n target_cols=None,\n answer_ratio=answer_ratio,\n title_ratio=title_ratio,\n use_title=use_title,\n use_body=use_body,\n use_answer=use_answer,\n title_col=title_col,\n body_col=body_col,\n answer_col=answer_col,\n )\n\n def __getitem__(self, index):\n title, body, answer = self._get_text(index)\n\n input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids = self._process(title, body, answer)\n input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids = map(\n torch.LongTensor, [input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids]\n )\n return (input_ids, attention_mask, token_type_ids)\n\n\ndef predict(model, test_loader, columns, device=\"cuda\"):\n model.eval()\n model.to(device)\n preds = []\n\n with torch.no_grad():\n for batch in tqdm(test_loader):\n pred = torch_to_numpy(model(*torch_to(batch, device)))\n preds.append(pred)\n\n preds = np.vstack(preds)\n\n preds = torch.sigmoid(torch.from_numpy(preds)).numpy()\n preds = np.clip(preds, 0, 1 - 1e-8)\n preds = pd.DataFrame(preds, columns=columns)\n return preds\n\n\ndef torch_to_numpy(obj, copy=False):\n if copy:\n func = lambda t: t.cpu().detach().numpy().copy()\n else:\n func = lambda t: t.cpu().detach().numpy()\n return torch_apply(obj, func)\n\n\ndef torch_to(obj, *args, **kargs):\n return torch_apply(obj, lambda t: t.to(*args, **kargs))\n\n\ndef torch_apply(obj, func):\n fn = lambda t: func(t) if torch.is_tensor(t) else t\n return _apply(obj, fn)\n\n\ndef _apply(obj, func):\n if isinstance(obj, (list, tuple)):\n return type(obj)(_apply(el, func) for el in obj)\n if isinstance(obj, dict):\n return {k: _apply(el, func) for k, el in obj.items()}\n return func(obj)\n\n\nif __name__ == \"__main__\":\n parser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--data_path\", type=Path, default=\"/kaggle/input/google-quest-challenge/\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\n \"--model_dir\", type=Path, default=\"/kaggle/input/stackx-80-aux-ep-3\"\n )\n parser.add_argument(\"--batch_size\", type=int, default=8)\n parser.add_argument(\"--num_workers\", type=int, default=2)\n parser.add_argument(\"--sub_file\", type=str, default=\"submission.csv\")\n args = parser.parse_args()\n\n def get_model(targets=ALL_TARGETS):\n config = BertConfig.from_json_file(\n args.model_dir / \"stackx-base-cased-config.json\"\n )\n config.__dict__[\"num_labels\"] = len(targets)\n\n model = BertForQuestRegression(config)\n return model\n\n def predict_test_checkpoints(checkpoints, test_loader, targets, device=\"cuda\"):\n model = get_model(targets)\n pred = []\n\n for path in checkpoints:\n model.load(path, map_location=\"cpu\")\n pred.append(predict(model, test_loader, targets, device=device))\n\n pred = np.mean([p[targets].values for p in pred], axis=0)\n pred = np.clip(pred, 0, 1 - 1e-8)\n del model\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n return pd.DataFrame(pred, columns=targets)\n\n test_df = pd.read_csv(args.data_path / \"test.csv\")\n tokenizer = BertTokenizer(\n args.model_dir / \"stackx-base-cased-vocab.txt\", do_lower_case=False\n )\n checkpoints = list(args.model_dir.glob(\"*.pth\"))\n\n test_dataset = TestQuestDataset(test_df, tokenizer, max_seg_length=512)\n test_loader = DataLoader(\n test_dataset,\n shuffle=False,\n batch_size=args.batch_size,\n num_workers=args.num_workers,\n )\n\n submission = predict_test_checkpoints(checkpoints, test_loader, ALL_TARGETS)\n submission.to_csv(args.sub_file, index=False)\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model1_bert_code/schedule.py", "content": "import torch\r\nfrom pytorch_transformers import optimization\r\nfrom poutyne.framework.callbacks import Callback\r\n\r\n\r\nclass _PyTorchLRSchedulerWrapper(Callback):\r\n def __init__(self, torch_lr_scheduler, *args, **kwargs):\r\n super().__init__()\r\n self.torch_lr_scheduler = torch_lr_scheduler\r\n self.args = args\r\n self.kwargs = kwargs\r\n self.scheduler = None\r\n self.loaded_state = None\r\n\r\n def on_train_begin(self, logs):\r\n optimizer = self.model.optimizer\r\n self.scheduler = self.torch_lr_scheduler(optimizer, *self.args, **self.kwargs)\r\n\r\n # Load state if the scheduler was not initialized when the user asked\r\n # to load its state\r\n if self.loaded_state is not None:\r\n self.scheduler.load_state_dict(self.loaded_state)\r\n self.loaded_state = None\r\n\r\n def on_batch_end(self, batch, logs):\r\n self.scheduler.step()\r\n\r\n def load_state(self, f):\r\n if self.scheduler is not None:\r\n self.scheduler.load_state_dict(torch.load(f, map_location=\"cpu\"))\r\n else:\r\n self.loaded_state = torch.load(f, map_location=\"cpu\")\r\n\r\n def save_state(self, f):\r\n torch.save(self.scheduler.state_dict(), f)\r\n\r\n\r\nclass _TotalStepWrapper(_PyTorchLRSchedulerWrapper):\r\n def on_train_begin(self, logs):\r\n if \"t_total\" not in self.kwargs or self.kwargs[\"t_total\"] is None:\r\n t_total = self.params[\"steps\"] * self.params[\"epochs\"]\r\n if self.params[\"accumulation_steps\"] is not None:\r\n t_total = t_total // self.params[\"accumulation_steps\"]\r\n else:\r\n t_total = self.kwargs[\"t_total\"]\r\n if \"t_total\" in self.kwargs:\r\n del self.kwargs[\"t_total\"]\r\n optimizer = self.model.optimizer\r\n self.scheduler = self.torch_lr_scheduler(\r\n optimizer, *self.args, t_total=t_total, **self.kwargs\r\n )\r\n\r\n # Load state if the scheduler was not initialized when the user asked\r\n # to load its state\r\n if self.loaded_state is not None:\r\n self.scheduler.load_state_dict(self.loaded_state)\r\n self.loaded_state = None\r\n\r\n\r\nclass ConstantLRSchedule(_PyTorchLRSchedulerWrapper):\r\n \"\"\" Constant learning rate schedule.\r\n \"\"\"\r\n\r\n def __init__(self, last_epoch=-1):\r\n super().__init__(optimization.ConstantLRSchedule, last_epoch=last_epoch)\r\n\r\n\r\nclass WarmupConstantSchedule(_PyTorchLRSchedulerWrapper):\r\n \"\"\" Linear warmup and then constant.\r\n Linearly increases learning rate schedule from 0 to 1 over `warmup_steps` training steps.\r\n Keeps learning rate schedule equal to 1. after warmup_steps.\r\n \"\"\"\r\n\r\n def __init__(self, warmup_steps, last_epoch=-1):\r\n super().__init__(\r\n optimization.WarmupConstantSchedule, warmup_steps, last_epoch=last_epoch\r\n )\r\n\r\n\r\nclass WarmupLinearSchedule(_TotalStepWrapper):\r\n \"\"\" Linear warmup and then linear decay.\r\n Linearly increases learning rate from 0 to 1 over `warmup_steps` training steps.\r\n Linearly decreases learning rate from 1. to 0. over remaining `t_total - warmup_steps` steps.\r\n \"\"\"\r\n\r\n def __init__(self, warmup_steps, t_total=None, last_epoch=-1):\r\n super().__init__(\r\n optimization.WarmupLinearSchedule,\r\n warmup_steps,\r\n t_total=t_total,\r\n last_epoch=last_epoch,\r\n )\r\n\r\n\r\nclass WarmupCosineSchedule(_TotalStepWrapper):\r\n \"\"\" Linear warmup and then cosine decay.\r\n Linearly increases learning rate from 0 to 1 over `warmup_steps` training steps.\r\n Decreases learning rate from 1. to 0. over remaining `t_total - warmup_steps` steps following a cosine curve.\r\n If `cycles` (default=0.5) is different from default, learning rate follows cosine function after warmup.\r\n \"\"\"\r\n\r\n def __init__(self, warmup_steps, t_total=None, cycles=0.5, last_epoch=-1):\r\n super().__init__(\r\n optimization.WarmupCosineSchedule,\r\n warmup_steps,\r\n t_total=t_total,\r\n cycles=cycles,\r\n last_epoch=last_epoch,\r\n )\r\n\r\n\r\nclass WarmupCosineWithHardRestartsSchedule(_TotalStepWrapper):\r\n \"\"\" Linear warmup and then cosine cycles with hard restarts.\r\n Linearly increases learning rate from 0 to 1 over `warmup_steps` training steps.\r\n If `cycles` (default=1.) is different from default, learning rate follows `cycles` times a cosine decaying\r\n learning rate (with hard restarts).\r\n \"\"\"\r\n\r\n def __init__(self, warmup_steps, t_total=None, cycles=1.0, last_epoch=-1):\r\n super().__init__(\r\n optimization.WarmupCosineWithHardRestartsSchedule,\r\n warmup_steps,\r\n t_total=t_total,\r\n cycles=cycles,\r\n last_epoch=last_epoch,\r\n )\r\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model1_bert_code/utils.py", "content": "from copy import deepcopy\n\nimport torch\nimport numpy as np\nimport pandas as pd\nfrom scipy.stats import rankdata\n\nfrom data.dataset import ALL_TARGETS\n\n\ndef encode_labels(df, target_columns=ALL_TARGETS, method=\"average\"):\n target_columns = [t for t in target_columns if t in df]\n df = deepcopy(df)\n\n ranked = [rankdata(df[col], method=method).reshape(-1, 1) for col in target_columns]\n ranked = np.hstack(ranked) - 1\n df[target_columns] = ranked\n\n return df\n\n\ndef transform_target_columns_to_ordinals(\n df, target_columns=ALL_TARGETS, return_label_groups=False\n):\n target_columns = [t for t in target_columns if t in df]\n rank_labels = encode_labels(df, target_columns, method=\"dense\")\n\n ordinal_labels = []\n for col in target_columns:\n col_labels = rank_labels[col]\n\n new_col_names = [col + \"_\" + str(i) for i in sorted(np.unique(col_labels))]\n new_col_names = new_col_names[1:]\n ordinals = np.array(\n [[1] * label + [0] * (len(new_col_names) - label) for label in col_labels]\n )\n\n ordinals = pd.DataFrame(ordinals, columns=new_col_names, index=df.index)\n ordinal_labels.append(ordinals)\n ordinal_labels = pd.concat(ordinal_labels, axis=1)\n\n if return_label_groups:\n label_groups = {label: [] for label in target_columns}\n for label_idx, label in enumerate(ordinal_labels.columns):\n for group in label_groups:\n if label.startswith(group):\n label_groups[group].append(label_idx)\n\n return ordinal_labels, label_groups\n else:\n return ordinal_labels\n\n\ndef torch_to_numpy(obj, copy=False):\n \"\"\"\n Convert to Numpy arrays all tensors inside a Python object composed of the supported types.\n\n Args:\n obj: The Python object to convert.\n copy (bool): Whether to copy the memory. By default, if a tensor is already on CPU, the\n Numpy array will be a view of the tensor.\n\n Returns:\n A new Python object with the same structure as `obj` but where the tensors are now Numpy\n arrays. Not supported type are left as reference in the new object.\n\n Example:\n .. code-block:: python\n\n >>> from poutyne import torch_to_numpy\n >>> torch_to_numpy({\n ... 'first': torch.tensor([1, 2, 3]),\n ... 'second':[torch.tensor([4,5,6]), torch.tensor([7,8,9])],\n ... 'third': 34\n ... })\n {\n 'first': array([1, 2, 3]),\n 'second': [array([4, 5, 6]), array([7, 8, 9])],\n 'third': 34\n }\n\n See:\n :meth:`~poutyne.torch_apply` for supported types.\n \"\"\"\n if copy:\n func = lambda t: t.cpu().detach().numpy().copy()\n else:\n func = lambda t: t.cpu().detach().numpy()\n return torch_apply(obj, func)\n\n\ndef torch_to(obj, *args, **kargs):\n return torch_apply(obj, lambda t: t.to(*args, **kargs))\n\n\ndef torch_apply(obj, func):\n \"\"\"\n Apply a function to all tensors inside a Python object composed of the supported types.\n\n Supported types are: list, tuple and dict.\n\n Args:\n obj: The Python object to convert.\n func: The function to apply.\n\n Returns:\n A new Python object with the same structure as `obj` but where the tensors have been applied\n the function `func`. Not supported type are left as reference in the new object.\n \"\"\"\n fn = lambda t: func(t) if torch.is_tensor(t) else t\n return _apply(obj, fn)\n\n\ndef _apply(obj, func):\n if isinstance(obj, (list, tuple)):\n return type(obj)(_apply(el, func) for el in obj)\n if isinstance(obj, dict):\n return {k: _apply(el, func) for k, el in obj.items()}\n return func(obj)\n\n\ndef _concat(obj):\n if isinstance(obj[0], (list, tuple)):\n return tuple([_concat(ele) for ele in zip(*obj)])\n if isinstance(obj[0], dict):\n concat_dict = {}\n for key in obj[0].keys():\n concat_dict[key] = _concat([o[key] for o in obj])\n return concat_dict\n return np.concatenate(obj)\n\n\ndef numpy_to_torch(obj):\n \"\"\"\n Convert to tensors all Numpy arrays inside a Python object composed of the supported types.\n\n Args:\n obj: The Python object to convert.\n\n Returns:\n A new Python object with the same structure as `obj` but where the Numpy arrays are now\n tensors. Not supported type are left as reference in the new object.\n\n Example:\n .. code-block:: python\n\n >>> from poutyne import numpy_to_torch\n >>> numpy_to_torch({\n ... 'first': np.array([1, 2, 3]),\n ... 'second':[np.array([4,5,6]), np.array([7,8,9])],\n ... 'third': 34\n ... })\n {\n 'first': tensor([1, 2, 3]),\n 'second': [tensor([4, 5, 6]), tensor([7, 8, 9])],\n 'third': 34\n }\n\n\n \"\"\"\n fn = lambda a: torch.from_numpy(a) if isinstance(a, np.ndarray) else a\n return _apply(obj, fn)\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model2_bert_code/args.py", "content": "import argparse\n\nparser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--data_path\", type=str, default=\"../input/\")\nparser.add_argument(\"--checkpoints\", type=str, default=\"../input/\")\nparser.add_argument(\"--pseudo_file\", type=str)\nparser.add_argument(\"--split_pseudo\", action=\"store_true\", default=False)\nparser.add_argument(\"--leak_free_pseudo\", action=\"store_true\", default=False)\nparser.add_argument(\"--seed\", type=int, default=42)\nparser.add_argument(\"--folds\", type=int, default=5)\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--label\", type=str, default=\"qa\")\nparser.add_argument(\"--bert_model\", type=str, default=\"bert-large-uncased\")\nparser.add_argument(\"--batch_size\", type=int, default=8)\nparser.add_argument(\"--batch_accumulation\", type=int, default=4)\nparser.add_argument(\"--epochs\", type=int, default=5)\nparser.add_argument(\"--lr\", type=float, default=2e-5)\nparser.add_argument(\"--warmup\", type=int, default=200)\n\n# loss\nparser.add_argument(\"--num_classes\", type=int, default=30)\nparser.add_argument(\"--workers\", type=int, default=8)\n\n# tokenization\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_sequence_length\", type=int, default=290)\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_title_length\", type=int, default=30)\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_question_length\", type=int, default=128)\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_answer_length\", type=int, default=128)\nparser.add_argument(\"--head_tail\", type=str, default=\"True\")\n\n# infer\nparser.add_argument(\"--sub_file\", type=str, default=\"submission.csv\")\n\nargs = parser.parse_args()\n\nfor arg in [\"head_tail\"]:\n args.__dict__[arg] = args.__dict__[arg] == \"True\"\n\nfor arg in [\"lr\"]:\n args.__dict__[arg] = float(args.__dict__[arg])\nprint(\"Initial arguments\", args)\n\nargs.__dict__[\"input_columns\"] = [\"question_title\", \"question_body\", \"answer\"]\nargs.__dict__[\"target_columns\"] = [\n \"question_asker_intent_understanding\",\n \"question_body_critical\",\n \"question_conversational\",\n \"question_expect_short_answer\",\n \"question_fact_seeking\",\n \"question_has_commonly_accepted_answer\",\n \"question_interestingness_others\",\n \"question_interestingness_self\",\n \"question_multi_intent\",\n \"question_not_really_a_question\",\n \"question_opinion_seeking\",\n \"question_type_choice\",\n \"question_type_compare\",\n \"question_type_consequence\",\n \"question_type_definition\",\n \"question_type_entity\",\n \"question_type_instructions\",\n \"question_type_procedure\",\n \"question_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"question_type_spelling\",\n \"question_well_written\",\n \"answer_helpful\",\n \"answer_level_of_information\",\n \"answer_plausible\",\n \"answer_relevance\",\n \"answer_satisfaction\",\n \"answer_type_instructions\",\n \"answer_type_procedure\",\n \"answer_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"answer_well_written\",\n]\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model2_bert_code/dataset.py", "content": "from math import floor, ceil\n\nimport torch\nfrom sklearn.model_selection import GroupKFold, KFold\nimport numpy as np\nimport pandas as pd\nfrom tqdm import tqdm\n\n\ndef _get_masks(tokens, max_seq_length):\n \"\"\"Mask for padding\"\"\"\n if len(tokens) > max_seq_length:\n raise IndexError(\"Token length more than max seq length!\")\n return [1] * len(tokens) + [0] * (max_seq_length - len(tokens))\n\n\ndef _get_segments(tokens, max_seq_length):\n \"\"\"Segments: 0 for the first sequence, 1 for the second\"\"\"\n\n if len(tokens) > max_seq_length:\n raise IndexError(\"Token length more than max seq length!\")\n\n segments = []\n first_sep = True\n current_segment_id = 0\n\n for token in tokens:\n segments.append(current_segment_id)\n if token == \"[SEP]\":\n if first_sep:\n first_sep = False\n else:\n current_segment_id = 1\n return segments + [0] * (max_seq_length - len(tokens))\n\n\ndef _get_ids(tokens, tokenizer, max_seq_length):\n \"\"\"Token ids from Tokenizer vocab\"\"\"\n\n token_ids = tokenizer.convert_tokens_to_ids(tokens)\n input_ids = token_ids + [0] * (max_seq_length - len(token_ids))\n return input_ids\n\n\ndef _trim_input(\n args,\n tokenizer,\n title,\n question,\n answer,\n max_sequence_length=290,\n t_max_len=30,\n q_max_len=128,\n a_max_len=128,\n):\n # SICK THIS IS ALL SEEMS TO BE SICK\n\n t = tokenizer.tokenize(title)\n q = tokenizer.tokenize(question)\n a = tokenizer.tokenize(answer)\n\n t_len = len(t)\n q_len = len(q)\n a_len = len(a)\n\n if (t_len + q_len + a_len + 4) > max_sequence_length:\n\n if t_max_len > t_len:\n t_new_len = t_len\n a_max_len = a_max_len + floor((t_max_len - t_len) / 2)\n q_max_len = q_max_len + ceil((t_max_len - t_len) / 2)\n else:\n t_new_len = t_max_len\n\n if a_max_len > a_len:\n a_new_len = a_len\n q_new_len = q_max_len + (a_max_len - a_len)\n elif q_max_len > q_len:\n a_new_len = a_max_len + (q_max_len - q_len)\n q_new_len = q_len\n else:\n a_new_len = a_max_len\n q_new_len = q_max_len\n\n if t_new_len + a_new_len + q_new_len + 4 != max_sequence_length:\n raise ValueError(\n \"New sequence length should be %d, but is %d\"\n % (max_sequence_length, (t_new_len + a_new_len + q_new_len + 4))\n )\n q_len_head = round(q_new_len / 2)\n q_len_tail = -1 * (q_new_len - q_len_head)\n a_len_head = round(a_new_len / 2)\n a_len_tail = -1 * (a_new_len - a_len_head) ## Head+Tail method .\n t = t[:t_new_len]\n if args.head_tail:\n q = q[:q_len_head] + q[q_len_tail:]\n a = a[:a_len_head] + a[a_len_tail:]\n else:\n q = q[:q_new_len]\n a = a[:a_new_len] ## No Head+Tail ,usual processing\n\n return t, q, a\n\n\ndef _convert_to_bert_inputs(title, question, answer, tokenizer, max_sequence_length):\n \"\"\"Converts tokenized input to ids, masks and segments for BERT\"\"\"\n\n stoken = [\"[CLS]\"] + title + [\"[SEP]\"] + question + [\"[SEP]\"] + answer + [\"[SEP]\"]\n\n input_ids = _get_ids(stoken, tokenizer, max_sequence_length)\n input_masks = _get_masks(stoken, max_sequence_length)\n input_segments = _get_segments(stoken, max_sequence_length)\n\n return [input_ids, input_masks, input_segments]\n\n\ndef _get_stoken_output(title, question, answer, tokenizer, max_sequence_length):\n \"\"\"Converts tokenized input to ids, masks and segments for BERT\"\"\"\n\n stoken = [\"[CLS]\"] + title + [\"[SEP]\"] + question + [\"[SEP]\"] + answer + [\"[SEP]\"]\n return stoken\n\n\ndef compute_input_arays(\n args,\n df,\n columns,\n tokenizer,\n max_sequence_length,\n t_max_len=30,\n q_max_len=128,\n a_max_len=128,\n):\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments = [], [], []\n for _, instance in tqdm(\n df[columns].iterrows(), desc=\"Preparing dataset\", total=len(df), ncols=80,\n ):\n t, q, a = (\n instance.question_title,\n instance.question_body,\n instance.answer,\n )\n t, q, a = _trim_input(\n args,\n tokenizer,\n t,\n q,\n a,\n max_sequence_length,\n t_max_len,\n q_max_len,\n a_max_len,\n )\n ids, masks, segments = _convert_to_bert_inputs(\n t, q, a, tokenizer, max_sequence_length\n )\n\n input_ids.append(ids)\n input_masks.append(masks)\n input_segments.append(segments)\n\n return (\n torch.from_numpy(np.asarray(input_ids, dtype=np.int32)).long(),\n torch.from_numpy(np.asarray(input_masks, dtype=np.int32)).long(),\n torch.from_numpy(np.asarray(input_segments, dtype=np.int32)).long(),\n )\n\n\ndef compute_output_arrays(df, columns):\n return np.asarray(df[columns])\n\n\nclass QuestDataset(torch.utils.data.Dataset):\n def __init__(self, inputs, lengths, labels=None):\n self.inputs = inputs\n self.labels = labels\n self.lengths = lengths\n\n @classmethod\n def from_frame(cls, args, df, tokenizer, test=False):\n \"\"\" here I put major preprocessing. why not lol\n \"\"\"\n inputs = compute_input_arays(\n args,\n df,\n args.input_columns,\n tokenizer,\n max_sequence_length=args.max_sequence_length,\n t_max_len=args.max_title_length,\n q_max_len=args.max_question_length,\n a_max_len=args.max_answer_length,\n )\n\n outputs = None\n if not test:\n outputs = compute_output_arrays(df, args.target_columns)\n outputs = torch.tensor(outputs, dtype=torch.float32)\n\n lengths = np.argmax(inputs[0] == 0, axis=1)\n lengths[lengths == 0] = inputs[0].shape[1]\n\n return cls(inputs=inputs, lengths=lengths, labels=outputs)\n\n def __len__(self):\n return len(self.inputs[0])\n\n def __getitem__(self, idx):\n input_ids = self.inputs[0][idx]\n input_masks = self.inputs[1][idx]\n input_segments = self.inputs[2][idx]\n lengths = self.lengths[idx]\n\n if self.labels is not None:\n labels = self.labels[idx]\n return input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels, lengths\n\n return input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, lengths\n\n\ndef cross_validation_split(\n args, train_df, tokenizer, ignore_train=False, pseudo_df=None, split_pseudo=False,\n):\n kf = GroupKFold(n_splits=args.folds)\n y_train = train_df[args.target_columns].values\n\n leak_free_pseudo = isinstance(pseudo_df, list)\n\n if pseudo_df is not None:\n\n if leak_free_pseudo:\n n_pseudo = len(pseudo_df[0])\n else:\n n_pseudo = len(pseudo_df)\n\n if split_pseudo:\n pseudo_kfold = KFold(args.folds)\n pseudo_ids = iter(pseudo_kfold.split(np.arange(n_pseudo)))\n else:\n pseudo_ids = iter(\n [(np.arange(len(np.pseudo)), np.arange(len(n_pseudo)))] * args.folds\n )\n\n for fold, (train_index, val_index) in enumerate(\n kf.split(train_df.values, groups=train_df.question_title)\n ):\n if not ignore_train:\n train_subdf = train_df.iloc[train_index]\n\n if pseudo_df is not None:\n pseudo_train, pseudo_valid = next(pseudo_ids)\n\n pseudo_subdf = pseudo_df if not leak_free_pseudo else pseudo_df[fold]\n\n pseudo_subdf = pseudo_subdf.iloc[pseudo_valid]\n train_subdf = pd.concat([train_subdf, pseudo_subdf], sort=True)\n\n train_set = QuestDataset.from_frame(args, train_subdf, tokenizer)\n else:\n train_set = None\n valid_set = QuestDataset.from_frame(args, train_df.iloc[val_index], tokenizer)\n\n yield (\n train_set,\n valid_set,\n train_df.iloc[train_index],\n train_df.iloc[val_index],\n )\n\n\ndef get_test_set(args, test_df, tokenizer):\n return QuestDataset.from_frame(args, test_df, tokenizer, True)\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model2_bert_code/loops.py", "content": "import gc\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nfrom scipy.stats import spearmanr\nfrom tqdm import tqdm\n\n\ndef train_loop(model, train_loader, optimizer, criterion, scheduler, args, iteration):\n model.train()\n\n avg_loss = 0.0\n\n optimizer.zero_grad()\n for idx, batch in enumerate(tqdm(train_loader, desc=\"Train\", ncols=80)):\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels, _ = batch\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels = (\n input_ids.cuda(),\n input_masks.cuda(),\n input_segments.cuda(),\n labels.cuda(),\n )\n\n logits = model(\n input_ids=input_ids.long(),\n attention_mask=input_masks,\n token_type_ids=input_segments,\n )\n loss = criterion(logits, labels)\n\n loss.backward()\n if (iteration + 1) % args.batch_accumulation == 0:\n optimizer.step()\n scheduler.step()\n optimizer.zero_grad()\n iteration += 1\n\n avg_loss += loss.item() / (len(train_loader) * args.batch_accumulation)\n\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n gc.collect()\n return (avg_loss, iteration)\n\n\ndef evaluate(args, model, val_loader, criterion, val_shape):\n avg_val_loss = 0.0\n model.eval()\n\n valid_preds = np.zeros((val_shape, args.num_classes))\n original = np.zeros((val_shape, args.num_classes))\n\n with torch.no_grad():\n for idx, batch in enumerate(tqdm(val_loader, desc=\"Valid\", ncols=80)):\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels, _ = batch\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels = (\n input_ids.cuda(),\n input_masks.cuda(),\n input_segments.cuda(),\n labels.cuda(),\n )\n\n logits = model(\n input_ids=input_ids.long(),\n attention_mask=input_masks,\n token_type_ids=input_segments,\n )\n\n avg_val_loss += criterion(logits, labels).item() / len(val_loader)\n valid_preds[idx * args.batch_size : (idx + 1) * args.batch_size] = (\n logits.detach().cpu().squeeze().numpy()\n )\n original[idx * args.batch_size : (idx + 1) * args.batch_size] = (\n labels.detach().cpu().squeeze().numpy()\n )\n\n score = 0\n preds = torch.sigmoid(torch.tensor(valid_preds)).numpy()\n\n for i in range(len(args.target_columns)):\n score += np.nan_to_num(spearmanr(original[:, i], preds[:, i]).correlation)\n\n return avg_val_loss, score / len(args.target_columns), preds\n\n\ndef infer(args, model, test_loader, test_shape):\n test_preds = np.zeros((test_shape, args.num_classes))\n model.eval()\n\n for idx, x_batch in enumerate(tqdm(test_loader, desc=\"Test\", ncols=80)):\n with torch.no_grad():\n predictions = model(\n input_ids=x_batch[0].cuda(),\n attention_mask=x_batch[1].cuda(),\n token_type_ids=x_batch[2].cuda(),\n )\n test_preds[idx * args.batch_size : (idx + 1) * args.batch_size] = (\n predictions.detach().cpu().squeeze().numpy()\n )\n\n output = torch.sigmoid(torch.tensor(test_preds)).numpy()\n return output\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model2_bert_code/model.py", "content": "import logging\nfrom transformers import BertModel\nfrom transformers.modeling_bert import BertPreTrainedModel\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\n\nlogging.getLogger(\"transformers\").setLevel(logging.ERROR)\n\n\nclass Squeeze(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, dim):\n super().__init__()\n self.dim = dim\n\n def forward(self, x):\n return x.squeeze(self.dim)\n\n\nclass CustomBert(BertPreTrainedModel):\n def __init__(self, config):\n config.output_hidden_states = True\n super(CustomBert, self).__init__(config)\n self.num_labels = config.num_labels\n self.bert = BertModel(config)\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(p=0.2)\n self.high_dropout = nn.Dropout(p=0.5)\n\n n_weights = config.num_hidden_layers + 1\n weights_init = torch.zeros(n_weights).float()\n weights_init.data[:-1] = -3\n self.layer_weights = torch.nn.Parameter(weights_init)\n\n self.classifier = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, self.config.num_labels)\n\n self.init_weights()\n\n def forward(\n self,\n input_ids=None,\n attention_mask=None,\n token_type_ids=None,\n position_ids=None,\n head_mask=None,\n inputs_embeds=None,\n ):\n outputs = self.bert(\n input_ids,\n attention_mask=attention_mask,\n token_type_ids=token_type_ids,\n position_ids=position_ids,\n head_mask=head_mask,\n inputs_embeds=inputs_embeds,\n )\n\n hidden_layers = outputs[2]\n last_hidden = outputs[0]\n\n cls_outputs = torch.stack(\n [self.dropout(layer[:, 0, :]) for layer in hidden_layers], dim=2\n )\n cls_output = (torch.softmax(self.layer_weights, dim=0) * cls_outputs).sum(-1)\n\n # multisample dropout (wut): https://arxiv.org/abs/1905.09788\n logits = torch.mean(\n torch.stack(\n [self.classifier(self.high_dropout(cls_output)) for _ in range(5)],\n dim=0,\n ),\n dim=0,\n )\n\n outputs = logits\n # add hidden states and attention if they are here\n\n return outputs # (loss), logits, (hidden_states), (attentions)\n\n\ndef get_model_optimizer(args):\n model = CustomBert.from_pretrained(args.bert_model, num_labels=args.num_classes)\n model.cuda()\n model = nn.DataParallel(model)\n\n return model\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model2_bert_code/run.py", "content": "import warnings\nimport os\nimport pandas as pd\nimport torch\nfrom model import get_model_optimizer\nfrom loops import infer\nfrom dataset import get_test_set\nfrom args import args\nfrom transformers import BertTokenizer\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader\n\nwarnings.filterwarnings(\"ignore\")\n\ntest_df = pd.read_csv(os.path.join(args.data_path, \"test.csv\"))\nsubmission = pd.read_csv(os.path.join(args.data_path, \"sample_submission.csv\"))\nsubmission[args.target_columns] = 0.0\n\ntokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained(args.bert_model, do_lower_case=False)\ntest_set = get_test_set(args, test_df, tokenizer)\ntest_loader = DataLoader(test_set, batch_size=args.batch_size, shuffle=False)\n\nmodel = get_model_optimizer(args)\n\nfor fold in range(args.folds):\n print(\"Fold\", fold)\n model.load_state_dict(\n torch.load(\"{}/fold{}/best_model.pth\".format(args.checkpoints, fold))\n )\n test_preds = infer(args, model, test_loader, test_shape=len(test_set))\n submission[args.target_columns] += test_preds\n\nsubmission[args.target_columns] /= args.folds\nsubmission.to_csv(args.sub_file, index=False)\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model3_roberta_code/args.py", "content": "import argparse\n\nparser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--data_path\", type=str, default=\"../input/\")\nparser.add_argument(\"--pseudo_file\", type=str)\nparser.add_argument(\"--n_pseudo\", type=int)\nparser.add_argument(\"--seed\", type=int, default=42)\nparser.add_argument(\"--folds\", type=int, default=5)\nparser.add_argument(\"--use_folds\", type=int, nargs=\"+\")\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--model_type\", type=str, default=\"bert\")\nparser.add_argument(\"--label\", type=str, default=\"qa\")\nparser.add_argument(\"--bert_model\", type=str, default=\"bert-large-uncased\")\nparser.add_argument(\"--batch_size\", type=int, default=8)\nparser.add_argument(\"--batch_accumulation\", type=int, default=4)\nparser.add_argument(\"--epochs\", type=int, default=5)\nparser.add_argument(\"--lr\", type=float, default=2e-5)\nparser.add_argument(\"--warmup\", type=int, default=200)\n\n# loss\nparser.add_argument(\"--num_classes\", type=int, default=30)\nparser.add_argument(\"--workers\", type=int, default=8)\n\n# tokenization\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_sequence_length\", type=int, default=290)\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_title_length\", type=int, default=30)\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_question_length\", type=int, default=128)\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_answer_length\", type=int, default=128)\nparser.add_argument(\"--head_tail\", type=str, default=\"True\")\n\n# infer\nparser.add_argument(\"--sub_file\", type=str, default=\"submission.csv\")\n\nargs = parser.parse_args()\n\nfor arg in [\"head_tail\"]:\n args.__dict__[arg] = args.__dict__[arg] == \"True\"\n\nfor arg in [\"lr\"]:\n args.__dict__[arg] = float(args.__dict__[arg])\nprint(\"Initial arguments\", args)\n\nargs.__dict__[\"input_columns\"] = [\"question_title\", \"question_body\", \"answer\"]\nargs.__dict__[\"target_columns\"] = [\n \"question_asker_intent_understanding\",\n \"question_body_critical\",\n \"question_conversational\",\n \"question_expect_short_answer\",\n \"question_fact_seeking\",\n \"question_has_commonly_accepted_answer\",\n \"question_interestingness_others\",\n \"question_interestingness_self\",\n \"question_multi_intent\",\n \"question_not_really_a_question\",\n \"question_opinion_seeking\",\n \"question_type_choice\",\n \"question_type_compare\",\n \"question_type_consequence\",\n \"question_type_definition\",\n \"question_type_entity\",\n \"question_type_instructions\",\n \"question_type_procedure\",\n \"question_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"question_type_spelling\",\n \"question_well_written\",\n \"answer_helpful\",\n \"answer_level_of_information\",\n \"answer_plausible\",\n \"answer_relevance\",\n \"answer_satisfaction\",\n \"answer_type_instructions\",\n \"answer_type_procedure\",\n \"answer_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"answer_well_written\",\n]\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model3_roberta_code/augmentation.py", "content": "import numpy as np\nfrom typing import List\nfrom transformers import BertTokenizer\n\n\nclass BertRandomTokenizer(BertTokenizer):\n def __init__(\n self,\n vocab_file,\n lower_case_prob=1.0,\n basic_tokenize_prob=1.0,\n piece_split_prob=0.0,\n recursive=False,\n **kwargs\n ):\n super(BertRandomTokenizer, self).__init__(\n vocab_file,\n do_lower_case=lower_case_prob > 0,\n do_basic_tokenize=True,\n **kwargs\n )\n self.lower_case_prob = lower_case_prob\n self.basic_tokenize_prob = basic_tokenize_prob\n self.piece_split_prob = piece_split_prob\n self.recursive = recursive\n\n def _split_word_piece(self, token: str) -> List[str]:\n if token in self.all_special_tokens:\n return [token]\n\n token_id = self.wordpiece_tokenizer.vocab.pop(token)\n pieces = self.wordpiece_tokenizer.tokenize(token)\n self.wordpiece_tokenizer.vocab[token] = token_id\n\n if self.unk_token not in pieces and len(pieces) > 0:\n return pieces\n else:\n return [token]\n\n def _tokenize(self, text):\n self.basic_tokenizer.do_lower_case = (\n np.random.uniform(0, 1) <= self.lower_case_prob\n )\n self.do_basic_tokenize = np.random.uniform(0, 1) <= self.basic_tokenize_prob\n\n def unroll(token_list):\n tokens = []\n for item in token_list:\n if not isinstance(item, list):\n tokens.append(item)\n else:\n tokens += item\n return tokens\n\n tokens = super(BertRandomTokenizer, self)._tokenize(text)\n\n current_pos = 0\n while current_pos < len(tokens):\n if np.random.uniform(0, 1) <= self.piece_split_prob:\n tokens[current_pos] = self._split_word_piece(tokens[current_pos])\n if self.recursive:\n tokens = unroll(tokens)\n current_pos += 1\n\n tokens = unroll(tokens)\n return tokens\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model3_roberta_code/dataset.py", "content": "from math import floor, ceil\nimport torch\nimport numpy as np\nfrom tqdm import tqdm\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader\nfrom sklearn.model_selection import GroupKFold\n\n\ndef _get_masks(tokens, tokenizer, max_seq_length):\n \"\"\"Mask for padding\"\"\"\n # if len(tokens) > max_seq_length:\n # raise IndexError(\"Token length more than max seq length!\")\n tokens = tokens[:max_seq_length]\n return [1] * len(tokens) + [0] * (max_seq_length - len(tokens))\n\n\ndef _get_segments(tokens, tokenizer, max_seq_length):\n \"\"\"Segments: 0 for the first sequence, 1 for the second\"\"\"\n\n # if len(tokens) > max_seq_length:\n # raise IndexError(\"Token length more than max seq length!\")\n tokens = tokens[:max_seq_length]\n\n segments = []\n first_sep = True\n current_segment_id = 0\n\n for token in tokens:\n segments.append(current_segment_id)\n if token == tokenizer.sep_token:\n if first_sep:\n first_sep = False\n else:\n current_segment_id = 1\n return segments + [0] * (max_seq_length - len(tokens))\n\n\ndef _get_ids(tokens, tokenizer, max_seq_length):\n \"\"\"Token ids from Tokenizer vocab\"\"\"\n\n token_ids = tokenizer.convert_tokens_to_ids(tokens)\n token_ids = token_ids[:max_seq_length]\n input_ids = token_ids + [0] * (max_seq_length - len(token_ids))\n return input_ids\n\n\ndef _trim_input(\n args,\n tokenizer,\n title,\n question,\n answer,\n max_sequence_length=290,\n t_max_len=30,\n q_max_len=128,\n a_max_len=128,\n):\n # SICK THIS IS ALL SEEMS TO BE SICK\n\n t = tokenizer.tokenize(title)\n q = tokenizer.tokenize(question)\n a = tokenizer.tokenize(answer)\n\n t_len = len(t)\n q_len = len(q)\n a_len = len(a)\n\n if (t_len + q_len + a_len + 4) > max_sequence_length:\n\n if t_max_len > t_len:\n t_new_len = t_len\n a_max_len = a_max_len + floor((t_max_len - t_len) / 2)\n q_max_len = q_max_len + ceil((t_max_len - t_len) / 2)\n else:\n t_new_len = t_max_len\n\n if a_max_len > a_len:\n a_new_len = a_len\n q_new_len = q_max_len + (a_max_len - a_len)\n elif q_max_len > q_len:\n a_new_len = a_max_len + (q_max_len - q_len)\n q_new_len = q_len\n else:\n a_new_len = a_max_len\n q_new_len = q_max_len\n\n if t_new_len + a_new_len + q_new_len + 4 != max_sequence_length:\n raise ValueError(\n \"New sequence length should be %d, but is %d\"\n % (max_sequence_length, (t_new_len + a_new_len + q_new_len + 4))\n )\n q_len_head = round(q_new_len / 2)\n q_len_tail = -1 * (q_new_len - q_len_head)\n a_len_head = round(a_new_len / 2)\n a_len_tail = -1 * (a_new_len - a_len_head) ## Head+Tail method .\n t = t[:t_new_len]\n if args.head_tail:\n q = q[:q_len_head] + q[q_len_tail:]\n a = a[:a_len_head] + a[a_len_tail:]\n else:\n q = q[:q_new_len]\n a = a[:a_new_len] ## No Head+Tail ,usual processing\n\n return t, q, a\n\n\ndef _convert_to_bert_inputs(\n title, question, answer, tokenizer, max_sequence_length, model_type,\n):\n \"\"\"Converts tokenized input to ids, masks and segments for BERT\"\"\"\n if model_type == \"roberta\":\n stoken = (\n [tokenizer.cls_token]\n + title\n + [tokenizer.sep_token] * 2\n + question\n + [tokenizer.sep_token] * 2\n + answer\n + [tokenizer.sep_token] * 2\n )\n\n else:\n stoken = (\n [tokenizer.cls_token]\n + title\n + [tokenizer.sep_token]\n + question\n + [tokenizer.sep_token]\n + answer\n + [tokenizer.sep_token]\n )\n\n input_ids = _get_ids(stoken, tokenizer, max_sequence_length)\n input_masks = _get_masks(stoken, tokenizer, max_sequence_length)\n input_segments = _get_segments(stoken, tokenizer, max_sequence_length)\n\n return [input_ids, input_masks, input_segments]\n\n\ndef compute_input_arrays(\n args,\n df,\n columns,\n tokenizer,\n max_sequence_length,\n t_max_len=30,\n q_max_len=128,\n a_max_len=128,\n verbose=True,\n):\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments = [], [], []\n\n iterator = df[columns].iterrows()\n if verbose:\n iterator = tqdm(iterator, desc=\"Preparing dataset\", total=len(df), ncols=80,)\n\n for _, instance in iterator:\n t, q, a = (\n instance.question_title,\n instance.question_body,\n instance.answer,\n )\n t, q, a = _trim_input(\n args,\n tokenizer,\n t,\n q,\n a,\n max_sequence_length,\n t_max_len,\n q_max_len,\n a_max_len,\n )\n ids, masks, segments = _convert_to_bert_inputs(\n t, q, a, tokenizer, max_sequence_length, args.model_type,\n )\n\n input_ids.append(ids)\n input_masks.append(masks)\n input_segments.append(segments)\n\n return (\n torch.from_numpy(np.asarray(input_ids, dtype=np.int32)).long(),\n torch.from_numpy(np.asarray(input_masks, dtype=np.int32)).long(),\n torch.from_numpy(np.asarray(input_segments, dtype=np.int32)).long(),\n )\n\n\ndef compute_output_arrays(df, columns):\n return np.asarray(df[columns])\n\n\nclass QuestDataset(torch.utils.data.Dataset):\n def __init__(\n self,\n args,\n df,\n tokenizer,\n test=False,\n title_transform=None,\n body_transform=None,\n answer_transform=None,\n ):\n self.data = df\n self.tokenizer = tokenizer\n self.is_test = test\n self.params = args\n\n self.title_transform = title_transform\n self.body_transform = body_transform\n self.answer_transform = answer_transform\n\n @classmethod\n def from_frame(\n cls,\n args,\n df,\n tokenizer,\n test=False,\n title_transform=None,\n body_transform=None,\n answer_transform=None,\n ):\n return cls(\n args,\n df,\n tokenizer,\n test=test,\n title_transform=title_transform,\n body_transform=body_transform,\n answer_transform=answer_transform,\n )\n\n def __getitem__(self, idx):\n instance = self.data[idx : idx + 1].copy()\n\n for col, transform in zip(\n [\"question_title\", \"question_body\", \"answer\"],\n [self.title_transform, self.body_transform, self.answer_transform],\n ):\n if transform is not None:\n instance[col] = transform[col]\n\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments = compute_input_arrays(\n self.params,\n instance,\n self.params.input_columns,\n self.tokenizer,\n max_sequence_length=self.params.max_sequence_length,\n t_max_len=self.params.max_title_length,\n q_max_len=self.params.max_question_length,\n a_max_len=self.params.max_answer_length,\n verbose=False,\n )\n length = torch.sum(input_masks != 0)\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments = (\n torch.squeeze(input_ids, dim=0),\n torch.squeeze(input_masks, dim=0),\n torch.squeeze(input_segments, dim=0),\n )\n\n if not self.is_test:\n labels = compute_output_arrays(instance, self.params.target_columns)\n labels = torch.tensor(labels, dtype=torch.float32)\n labels = torch.squeeze(labels, dim=0)\n return input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels, length\n else:\n return input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, length\n\n def __len__(self):\n return len(self.data)\n\n\ndef cross_validation_split(args, train_df, tokenizer, ignore_train=False):\n kf = GroupKFold(n_splits=args.folds)\n y_train = train_df[args.target_columns].values\n\n for fold, (train_index, val_index) in enumerate(\n kf.split(train_df.values, groups=train_df.question_title)\n ):\n\n if args.use_folds is not None and fold not in args.use_folds:\n continue\n\n if not ignore_train:\n train_subdf = train_df.iloc[train_index]\n train_set = QuestDataset.from_frame(args, train_subdf, tokenizer)\n else:\n train_set = None\n\n valid_set = QuestDataset.from_frame(args, train_df.iloc[val_index], tokenizer)\n\n yield (\n fold,\n train_set,\n valid_set,\n train_df.iloc[train_index],\n train_df.iloc[val_index],\n )\n\n\ndef get_pseudo_set(args, pseudo_df, tokenizer):\n return QuestDataset.from_frame(args, pseudo_df, tokenizer)\n\n\ndef get_test_set(args, test_df, tokenizer):\n return QuestDataset.from_frame(args, test_df, tokenizer, True)\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model3_roberta_code/evaluation.py", "content": "from scipy.stats import spearmanr\nimport numpy as np\nfrom misc import target_columns\n\n\ndef target_metric(prediction, actual):\n\n prediction = prediction.sort_values(by=\"qa_id\").reset_index(drop=True)\n actual = actual.sort_values(by=\"qa_id\").reset_index(drop=True)\n\n assert (prediction.qa_id == actual.qa_id).all()\n\n score = 0\n for col in target_columns:\n score += np.nan_to_num(\n spearmanr(prediction[col], actual[col]).correlation\n ) / len(target_columns)\n return score\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model3_roberta_code/infer.py", "content": "import argparse\nimport logging\nimport os\nimport mag\nimport numpy as np\nimport pandas as pd\nimport torch\nfrom dataset import get_test_set\nfrom loops import infer\nfrom mag.experiment import Experiment\nfrom misc import target_columns, input_columns\nfrom model import get_model_optimizer\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader\nfrom transformers import BertTokenizer, RobertaTokenizer\n\nmag.use_custom_separator(\"-\")\n\nparser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--experiment\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--checkpoint\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--bert_model\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--dataframe\", type=str, required=True)\nparser.add_argument(\"--output_dir\", type=str, required=True)\n\nargs = parser.parse_args()\n\nexperiment = Experiment(resume_from=args.experiment)\nconfig = experiment.config\n\nlogging.getLogger(\"transformers\").setLevel(logging.ERROR)\n\ntest_df = pd.read_csv(args.dataframe)\n\noriginal_args = argparse.Namespace(\n folds=config.folds,\n lr=config.lr,\n batch_size=config.batch_size,\n seed=config._seed,\n bert_model=args.bert_model,\n num_classes=30,\n target_columns=target_columns,\n input_columns=input_columns,\n # old models didn't have those parameters in their configs\n max_sequence_length=getattr(config, \"max_sequence_length\", 500),\n max_title_length=getattr(config, \"max_title_length\", 26),\n max_question_length=getattr(config, \"max_question_length\", 260),\n max_answer_length=getattr(config, \"max_answer_length\", 210),\n head_tail=getattr(config, \"head_tail\", True),\n use_folds=None,\n model_type=config.model_type,\n)\n\nif original_args.model_type == \"bert\":\n tokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained(\n original_args.bert_model, do_lower_case=(\"uncased\" in args.bert_model)\n )\nelif original_args.model_type == \"roberta\":\n tokenizer = RobertaTokenizer.from_pretrained(original_args.bert_model)\n\ntest_set = get_test_set(original_args, test_df, tokenizer)\ntest_loader = DataLoader(test_set, batch_size=original_args.batch_size, shuffle=False)\n\nif not os.path.exists(args.output_dir):\n os.makedirs(args.output_dir)\n\nfor fold in range(config.folds):\n\n print()\n print(\"Fold:\", fold)\n print()\n\n fold_checkpoints = os.path.join(experiment.checkpoints, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n\n model, optimizer = get_model_optimizer(original_args)\n\n checkpoint = os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, args.checkpoint)\n\n state_dict = torch.load(checkpoint)\n model.load_state_dict(state_dict)\n del state_dict\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n test_preds = infer(original_args, model, test_loader, test_shape=len(test_set))\n\n test_preds_df = test_df[[\"qa_id\"]].copy()\n for k, col in enumerate(target_columns):\n test_preds_df[col] = test_preds[:, k].astype(np.float32)\n test_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(args.output_dir, \"fold-{}.csv\".format(fold)), index=False,\n )\n\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model3_roberta_code/loops.py", "content": "import gc\nimport numpy as np\nimport torch\nfrom scipy.stats import spearmanr\nfrom tqdm import tqdm\n\n\ndef train_loop(model, train_loader, optimizer, criterion, scheduler, args, iteration):\n model.train()\n\n avg_loss = 0.0\n\n optimizer.zero_grad()\n for idx, batch in enumerate(tqdm(train_loader, desc=\"Train\", ncols=80)):\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels, _ = batch\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels = (\n input_ids.cuda(),\n input_masks.cuda(),\n input_segments.cuda(),\n labels.cuda(),\n )\n\n logits = model(\n input_ids=input_ids.long(),\n attention_mask=input_masks,\n token_type_ids=input_segments,\n )\n loss = criterion(logits, labels)\n\n loss.backward()\n if (iteration + 1) % args.batch_accumulation == 0:\n optimizer.step()\n scheduler.step()\n optimizer.zero_grad()\n iteration += 1\n\n avg_loss += loss.item() / (len(train_loader) * args.batch_accumulation)\n\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n gc.collect()\n return (avg_loss, iteration)\n\n\ndef evaluate(args, model, val_loader, criterion, val_shape):\n avg_val_loss = 0.0\n model.eval()\n\n valid_preds = np.zeros((val_shape, args.num_classes))\n original = np.zeros((val_shape, args.num_classes))\n\n with torch.no_grad():\n for idx, batch in enumerate(tqdm(val_loader, desc=\"Valid\", ncols=80)):\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels, _ = batch\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments, labels = (\n input_ids.cuda(),\n input_masks.cuda(),\n input_segments.cuda(),\n labels.cuda(),\n )\n\n logits = model(\n input_ids=input_ids.long(),\n attention_mask=input_masks,\n token_type_ids=input_segments,\n )\n\n avg_val_loss += criterion(logits, labels).item() / len(val_loader)\n valid_preds[idx * args.batch_size : (idx + 1) * args.batch_size] = (\n logits.detach().cpu().squeeze().numpy()\n )\n original[idx * args.batch_size : (idx + 1) * args.batch_size] = (\n labels.detach().cpu().squeeze().numpy()\n )\n\n score = 0\n preds = torch.sigmoid(torch.tensor(valid_preds)).numpy()\n\n for i in range(len(args.target_columns)):\n score += np.nan_to_num(spearmanr(original[:, i], preds[:, i]).correlation)\n\n return avg_val_loss, score / len(args.target_columns), preds\n\n\ndef infer(args, model, test_loader, test_shape):\n test_preds = np.zeros((test_shape, args.num_classes))\n model.eval()\n\n for idx, x_batch in enumerate(tqdm(test_loader, desc=\"Test\", ncols=80)):\n with torch.no_grad():\n predictions = model(\n input_ids=x_batch[0].cuda(),\n attention_mask=x_batch[1].cuda(),\n token_type_ids=x_batch[2].cuda(),\n )\n test_preds[idx * args.batch_size : (idx + 1) * args.batch_size] = (\n predictions.detach().cpu().squeeze().numpy()\n )\n\n output = torch.sigmoid(torch.tensor(test_preds)).numpy()\n return output\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model3_roberta_code/misc.py", "content": "target_columns = [\n \"question_asker_intent_understanding\",\n \"question_body_critical\",\n \"question_conversational\",\n \"question_expect_short_answer\",\n \"question_fact_seeking\",\n \"question_has_commonly_accepted_answer\",\n \"question_interestingness_others\",\n \"question_interestingness_self\",\n \"question_multi_intent\",\n \"question_not_really_a_question\",\n \"question_opinion_seeking\",\n \"question_type_choice\",\n \"question_type_compare\",\n \"question_type_consequence\",\n \"question_type_definition\",\n \"question_type_entity\",\n \"question_type_instructions\",\n \"question_type_procedure\",\n \"question_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"question_type_spelling\",\n \"question_well_written\",\n \"answer_helpful\",\n \"answer_level_of_information\",\n \"answer_plausible\",\n \"answer_relevance\",\n \"answer_satisfaction\",\n \"answer_type_instructions\",\n \"answer_type_procedure\",\n \"answer_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"answer_well_written\",\n]\n\ninput_columns = [\"question_title\", \"question_body\", \"answer\"]\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model3_roberta_code/model.py", "content": "import logging\nfrom transformers import BertModel, RobertaModel\nfrom transformers.modeling_bert import BertPreTrainedModel\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\n\nlogging.getLogger(\"transformers\").setLevel(logging.ERROR)\n\n\nclass Squeeze(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, dim):\n super().__init__()\n self.dim = dim\n\n def forward(self, x):\n return x.squeeze(self.dim)\n\n\nclass CustomBert(BertPreTrainedModel):\n def __init__(self, config):\n config.output_hidden_states = True\n super(CustomBert, self).__init__(config)\n self.num_labels = config.num_labels\n self.bert = BertModel(config)\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(p=0.2)\n self.high_dropout = nn.Dropout(p=0.5)\n\n n_weights = config.num_hidden_layers + 1\n weights_init = torch.zeros(n_weights).float()\n weights_init.data[:-1] = -3\n self.layer_weights = torch.nn.Parameter(weights_init)\n\n self.classifier = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, self.config.num_labels)\n\n self.init_weights()\n\n def forward(\n self,\n input_ids=None,\n attention_mask=None,\n token_type_ids=None,\n position_ids=None,\n head_mask=None,\n inputs_embeds=None,\n ):\n outputs = self.bert(\n input_ids,\n attention_mask=attention_mask,\n token_type_ids=token_type_ids,\n position_ids=position_ids,\n head_mask=head_mask,\n inputs_embeds=inputs_embeds,\n )\n\n hidden_layers = outputs[2]\n\n cls_outputs = torch.stack(\n [self.dropout(layer[:, 0, :]) for layer in hidden_layers], dim=2\n )\n cls_output = (torch.softmax(self.layer_weights, dim=0) * cls_outputs).sum(-1)\n\n # multisample dropout (wut): https://arxiv.org/abs/1905.09788\n logits = torch.mean(\n torch.stack(\n [self.classifier(self.high_dropout(cls_output)) for _ in range(5)],\n dim=0,\n ),\n dim=0,\n )\n\n outputs = logits\n return outputs\n\n\nclass CustomRoberta(BertPreTrainedModel):\n def __init__(self, config):\n config.output_hidden_states = True\n super(CustomRoberta, self).__init__(config)\n self.num_labels = config.num_labels\n self.roberta = RobertaModel(config)\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(p=0.2)\n self.high_dropout = nn.Dropout(p=0.5)\n\n n_weights = config.num_hidden_layers + 1\n weights_init = torch.zeros(n_weights).float()\n weights_init.data[:-1] = -3\n self.layer_weights = torch.nn.Parameter(weights_init)\n\n self.classifier = nn.Linear(config.hidden_size, self.config.num_labels)\n\n self.init_weights()\n\n def forward(\n self,\n input_ids=None,\n attention_mask=None,\n token_type_ids=None,\n position_ids=None,\n head_mask=None,\n inputs_embeds=None,\n ):\n token_type_ids = torch.zeros_like(token_type_ids)\n outputs = self.roberta(\n input_ids,\n attention_mask=attention_mask,\n token_type_ids=token_type_ids,\n position_ids=position_ids,\n head_mask=head_mask,\n inputs_embeds=inputs_embeds,\n )\n\n hidden_layers = outputs[2]\n\n cls_outputs = torch.stack(\n [self.dropout(layer[:, 0, :]) for layer in hidden_layers], dim=2\n )\n cls_output = (torch.softmax(self.layer_weights, dim=0) * cls_outputs).sum(-1)\n\n # multisample dropout (wut): https://arxiv.org/abs/1905.09788\n logits = torch.mean(\n torch.stack(\n [self.classifier(self.high_dropout(cls_output)) for _ in range(5)],\n dim=0,\n ),\n dim=0,\n )\n\n outputs = logits\n return outputs\n\n\ndef get_model_optimizer(args):\n if args.model_type == \"bert\":\n model = CustomBert.from_pretrained(args.bert_model, num_labels=args.num_classes)\n prefix = \"bert\"\n elif args.model_type == \"roberta\":\n model = CustomRoberta.from_pretrained(\n args.bert_model, num_labels=args.num_classes\n )\n prefix = \"roberta\"\n else:\n raise ValueError(\"Wrong model_type {}\".format(args.model_type))\n\n model.cuda()\n model = nn.DataParallel(model)\n params = list(model.named_parameters())\n\n def is_backbone(n):\n return prefix in n\n\n optimizer_grouped_parameters = [\n {\"params\": [p for n, p in params if is_backbone(n)], \"lr\": args.lr},\n {\"params\": [p for n, p in params if not is_backbone(n)], \"lr\": args.lr * 500},\n ]\n\n optimizer = torch.optim.AdamW(\n optimizer_grouped_parameters, lr=args.lr, weight_decay=0\n )\n\n return model, optimizer\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model3_roberta_code/run.py", "content": "import csv\nimport logging\nimport os\nimport random\nimport warnings\n\nimport mag\nimport numpy as np\nimport pandas as pd\nimport torch\nfrom args import args\nfrom dataset import cross_validation_split, get_test_set, get_pseudo_set\nfrom loops import train_loop, evaluate, infer\nfrom mag.experiment import Experiment\nfrom model import get_model_optimizer\nfrom torch import nn\nfrom torch.utils.data import ConcatDataset\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader\nfrom transformers import BertTokenizer\nfrom transformers import get_linear_schedule_with_warmup, RobertaTokenizer\n\nmag.use_custom_separator(\"-\")\nwarnings.filterwarnings(\"ignore\")\n\nconfig = {\n \"_seed\": args.seed,\n \"bert_model\": args.bert_model.replace(\"-\", \"_\"),\n \"batch_accumulation\": args.batch_accumulation,\n \"batch_size\": args.batch_size,\n \"warmup\": args.warmup,\n \"lr\": args.lr,\n \"folds\": args.folds,\n \"max_sequence_length\": args.max_sequence_length,\n \"max_title_length\": args.max_title_length,\n \"max_question_length\": args.max_question_length,\n \"max_answer_length\": args.max_answer_length,\n \"head_tail\": args.head_tail,\n \"label\": args.label,\n \"_pseudo_file\": args.pseudo_file,\n \"model_type\": args.model_type,\n}\nexperiment = Experiment(config, implicit_resuming=args.use_folds is not None)\nexperiment.register_directory(\"checkpoints\")\nexperiment.register_directory(\"predictions\")\n\n\ndef seed_everything(seed: int):\n random.seed(seed)\n os.environ[\"PYTHONHASHSEED\"] = str(seed)\n np.random.seed(seed)\n torch.manual_seed(seed)\n torch.cuda.manual_seed(seed)\n torch.backends.cudnn.deterministic = True\n\n\nlogging.getLogger(\"transformers\").setLevel(logging.ERROR)\nseed_everything(args.seed)\n# load the data\ntrain_df = pd.read_csv(os.path.join(args.data_path, \"train.csv\"))\ntest_df = pd.read_csv(os.path.join(args.data_path, \"test.csv\"))\nsubmission = pd.read_csv(os.path.join(args.data_path, \"sample_submission.csv\"))\n\nif args.model_type == \"bert\":\n tokenizer = BertTokenizer.from_pretrained(\n args.bert_model, do_lower_case=(\"uncased\" in args.bert_model)\n )\nelif args.model_type == \"roberta\":\n tokenizer = RobertaTokenizer.from_pretrained(args.bert_model)\n\ntest_set = get_test_set(args, test_df, tokenizer)\ntest_loader = DataLoader(test_set, batch_size=args.batch_size, shuffle=False)\n\nfor fold, train_set, valid_set, train_fold_df, val_fold_df in cross_validation_split(\n args, train_df, tokenizer\n):\n\n print()\n print(\"Fold:\", fold)\n print()\n\n valid_loader = DataLoader(\n valid_set, batch_size=args.batch_size, shuffle=False, drop_last=False\n )\n\n fold_checkpoints = os.path.join(experiment.checkpoints, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n fold_predictions = os.path.join(experiment.predictions, \"fold{}\".format(fold))\n\n os.makedirs(fold_checkpoints, exist_ok=True)\n os.makedirs(fold_predictions, exist_ok=True)\n\n log_file = os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, \"training_log.csv\")\n\n with open(log_file, \"w\") as csvfile:\n writer = csv.writer(csvfile)\n writer.writerow([\"epoch\", \"loss\", \"val_loss\", \"score\"])\n\n iteration = 0\n best_score = -1.0\n\n model, optimizer = get_model_optimizer(args)\n criterion = nn.BCEWithLogitsLoss()\n\n for epoch in range(args.epochs):\n\n epoch_train_set = train_set\n\n if args.pseudo_file is not None:\n pseudo_df = pd.read_csv(args.pseudo_file.format(fold))\n\n pseudo_set = get_pseudo_set(\n args, pseudo_df.sample(args.n_pseudo), tokenizer\n )\n\n epoch_train_set = ConcatDataset([epoch_train_set, pseudo_set])\n\n train_loader = DataLoader(\n epoch_train_set,\n batch_size=args.batch_size,\n num_workers=args.workers,\n drop_last=True,\n shuffle=True,\n )\n\n scheduler = get_linear_schedule_with_warmup(\n optimizer,\n num_warmup_steps=args.warmup,\n num_training_steps=(\n args.epochs * len(train_loader) / args.batch_accumulation\n ),\n )\n\n avg_loss, iteration = train_loop(\n model, train_loader, optimizer, criterion, scheduler, args, iteration,\n )\n\n avg_val_loss, score, val_preds = evaluate(\n args, model, valid_loader, criterion, val_shape=len(valid_set)\n )\n\n print(\n \"Epoch {}/{}: \\t loss={:.4f} \\t val_loss={:.4f} \\t score={:.6f}\".format(\n epoch + 1, args.epochs, avg_loss, avg_val_loss, score\n )\n )\n with open(log_file, \"a\") as csvfile:\n writer = csv.writer(csvfile)\n writer.writerow([epoch + 1, avg_loss, avg_val_loss, score])\n\n torch.save(\n model.state_dict(),\n os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, \"model_on_epoch_{}.pth\".format(epoch)),\n )\n val_preds_df = val_fold_df.copy()[[\"qa_id\"] + args.target_columns]\n val_preds_df[args.target_columns] = val_preds\n val_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(fold_predictions, \"val_on_epoch_{}.csv\".format(epoch)),\n index=False,\n )\n\n test_preds = infer(args, model, test_loader, test_shape=len(test_set))\n test_preds_df = submission.copy()\n test_preds_df[args.target_columns] = test_preds\n test_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(fold_predictions, \"test_on_epoch_{}.csv\".format(epoch)),\n index=False,\n )\n\n if score > best_score:\n best_score = score\n torch.save(\n model.state_dict(), os.path.join(fold_checkpoints, \"best_model.pth\"),\n )\n val_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(fold_predictions, \"best_val.csv\"), index=False\n )\n test_preds_df.to_csv(\n os.path.join(fold_predictions, \"best_test.csv\"), index=False\n )\n\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n\n print()\n\nbest_val_df_files = [\n os.path.join(experiment.predictions, \"fold{}\".format(fold), \"best_val.csv\")\n for fold in range(args.folds)\n]\n\nif all(os.path.isfile(file) for file in best_val_df_files):\n best_val_dfs = [pd.read_csv(file) for file in best_val_df_files]\n # create oof df only if all folds were used\n oof_df = pd.concat(best_val_dfs).reset_index(drop=True)\n oof_df.to_csv(os.path.join(experiment.predictions, \"oof.csv\"), index=False)\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model4_bart_code/args.py", "content": "import argparse\n\nparser = argparse.ArgumentParser()\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--data_path\", type=str, default=\"../input/\")\nparser.add_argument(\"--pseudo_file\", type=str)\nparser.add_argument(\"--split_pseudo\", action=\"store_true\", default=False)\nparser.add_argument(\"--leak_free_pseudo\", action=\"store_true\", default=False)\nparser.add_argument(\"--seed\", type=int, default=42)\nparser.add_argument(\"--folds\", type=int, default=5)\n\nparser.add_argument(\"--label\", type=str, default=\"qa\")\nparser.add_argument(\"--bert_model\", type=str, default=\"bert-large-uncased\")\nparser.add_argument(\"--batch_size\", type=int, default=8)\nparser.add_argument(\"--batch_accumulation\", type=int, default=4)\nparser.add_argument(\"--epochs\", type=int, default=5)\nparser.add_argument(\"--lr\", type=float, default=2e-5)\nparser.add_argument(\"--warmup\", type=int, default=200)\n\n# loss\nparser.add_argument(\"--num_classes\", type=int, default=30)\nparser.add_argument(\"--workers\", type=int, default=8)\n\n# tokenization\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_sequence_length\", type=int, default=290)\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_title_length\", type=int, default=30)\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_question_length\", type=int, default=128)\nparser.add_argument(\"--max_answer_length\", type=int, default=128)\nparser.add_argument(\"--head_tail\", type=str, default=\"True\")\n\n# infer\nparser.add_argument(\"--sub_file\", type=str, default=\"submission.csv\")\n\nargs = parser.parse_args()\n\nfor arg in [\"head_tail\"]:\n args.__dict__[arg] = args.__dict__[arg] == \"True\"\n\nfor arg in [\"lr\"]:\n args.__dict__[arg] = float(args.__dict__[arg])\nprint(\"Initial arguments\", args)\n\nargs.__dict__[\"input_columns\"] = [\"question_title\", \"question_body\", \"answer\"]\nargs.__dict__[\"target_columns\"] = [\n \"question_asker_intent_understanding\",\n \"question_body_critical\",\n \"question_conversational\",\n \"question_expect_short_answer\",\n \"question_fact_seeking\",\n \"question_has_commonly_accepted_answer\",\n \"question_interestingness_others\",\n \"question_interestingness_self\",\n \"question_multi_intent\",\n \"question_not_really_a_question\",\n \"question_opinion_seeking\",\n \"question_type_choice\",\n \"question_type_compare\",\n \"question_type_consequence\",\n \"question_type_definition\",\n \"question_type_entity\",\n \"question_type_instructions\",\n \"question_type_procedure\",\n \"question_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"question_type_spelling\",\n \"question_well_written\",\n \"answer_helpful\",\n \"answer_level_of_information\",\n \"answer_plausible\",\n \"answer_relevance\",\n \"answer_satisfaction\",\n \"answer_type_instructions\",\n \"answer_type_procedure\",\n \"answer_type_reason_explanation\",\n \"answer_well_written\",\n]\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model4_bart_code/dataset.py", "content": "from math import floor, ceil\n\nimport torch\nfrom sklearn.model_selection import GroupKFold, KFold\nimport numpy as np\nimport pandas as pd\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader, Dataset\nfrom tqdm import tqdm\nimport html\n\nBOS = 0\nPAD = 1\nEOS = 2\n\n\ndef _get_ids(tokens, tokenizer, max_seq_length):\n \"\"\"Token ids from Tokenizer vocab\"\"\"\n\n input_ids = tokens + [PAD] * (max_seq_length - len(tokens))\n return input_ids\n\n\ndef _trim_input(\n args,\n tokenizer,\n title,\n question,\n answer,\n max_sequence_length=290,\n t_max_len=30,\n q_max_len=128,\n a_max_len=128,\n):\n # SICK THIS IS ALL SEEMS TO BE SICK\n\n t = tokenizer.encode(title)[1:-1].tolist()\n q = tokenizer.encode(question)[1:-1].tolist()\n a = tokenizer.encode(answer)[1:-1].tolist()\n\n t_len = len(t)\n q_len = len(q)\n a_len = len(a)\n\n if (t_len + q_len + a_len + 4) > max_sequence_length:\n\n if t_max_len > t_len:\n t_new_len = t_len\n a_max_len = a_max_len + floor((t_max_len - t_len) / 2)\n q_max_len = q_max_len + ceil((t_max_len - t_len) / 2)\n else:\n t_new_len = t_max_len\n\n if a_max_len > a_len:\n a_new_len = a_len\n q_new_len = q_max_len + (a_max_len - a_len)\n elif q_max_len > q_len:\n a_new_len = a_max_len + (q_max_len - q_len)\n q_new_len = q_len\n else:\n a_new_len = a_max_len\n q_new_len = q_max_len\n\n if t_new_len + a_new_len + q_new_len + 4 != max_sequence_length:\n raise ValueError(\n \"New sequence length should be %d, but is %d\"\n % (max_sequence_length, (t_new_len + a_new_len + q_new_len + 4))\n )\n q_len_head = round(q_new_len / 2)\n q_len_tail = -1 * (q_new_len - q_len_head)\n a_len_head = round(a_new_len / 2)\n a_len_tail = -1 * (a_new_len - a_len_head) ## Head+Tail method .\n t = t[:t_new_len]\n if args.head_tail:\n q = q[:q_len_head] + q[q_len_tail:]\n a = a[:a_len_head] + a[a_len_tail:]\n else:\n q = q[:q_new_len]\n a = a[:a_new_len] ## No Head+Tail ,usual processing\n\n return t, q, a\n\n\ndef _convert_to_bert_inputs(title, question, answer, tokenizer, max_sequence_length):\n \"\"\"Converts tokenized input to ids, masks and segments for BERT\"\"\"\n\n stoken = [BOS] + title + [EOS] + question + [EOS] + answer + [EOS]\n\n input_ids = _get_ids(stoken, tokenizer, max_sequence_length)\n\n return input_ids\n\n\ndef compute_input_arays(\n args,\n df,\n columns,\n tokenizer,\n max_sequence_length,\n t_max_len=30,\n q_max_len=128,\n a_max_len=128,\n):\n input_ids, input_masks, input_segments = [], [], []\n\n for col in [\"question_title\", \"question_body\", \"answer\"]:\n df[col] = df[col].apply(html.unescape)\n\n for _, instance in tqdm(\n df[columns].iterrows(), desc=\"Preparing dataset\", total=len(df), ncols=80,\n ):\n t, q, a = (\n instance.question_title,\n instance.question_body,\n instance.answer,\n )\n t, q, a = _trim_input(\n args,\n tokenizer,\n t,\n q,\n a,\n max_sequence_length,\n t_max_len,\n q_max_len,\n a_max_len,\n )\n ids = _convert_to_bert_inputs(t, q, a, tokenizer, max_sequence_length)\n\n input_ids.append(ids)\n\n return torch.from_numpy(np.asarray(input_ids, dtype=np.int32)).long()\n\n\ndef compute_output_arrays(df, columns):\n return np.asarray(df[columns])\n\n\nclass QuestDataset(torch.utils.data.Dataset):\n def __init__(self, inputs, lengths, labels=None):\n self.inputs = inputs\n self.labels = labels\n self.lengths = lengths\n\n @classmethod\n def from_frame(cls, args, df, tokenizer, test=False):\n \"\"\" here I put major preprocessing. why not lol\n \"\"\"\n inputs = compute_input_arays(\n args,\n df,\n args.input_columns,\n tokenizer,\n max_sequence_length=args.max_sequence_length,\n t_max_len=args.max_title_length,\n q_max_len=args.max_question_length,\n a_max_len=args.max_answer_length,\n )\n\n outputs = None\n if not test:\n outputs = compute_output_arrays(df, args.target_columns)\n outputs = torch.tensor(outputs, dtype=torch.float32)\n\n lengths = np.argmax(inputs == 0, axis=1)\n lengths[lengths == 0] = inputs.shape[1]\n\n return cls(inputs=inputs, lengths=lengths, labels=outputs)\n\n def __len__(self):\n return len(self.inputs)\n\n def __getitem__(self, idx):\n input_ids = self.inputs[idx]\n lengths = self.lengths[idx]\n\n if self.labels is not None:\n labels = self.labels[idx]\n return input_ids, labels, lengths\n\n return input_ids, lengths\n\n\ndef cross_validation_split(\n args, train_df, tokenizer, ignore_train=False, pseudo_df=None, split_pseudo=False,\n):\n kf = GroupKFold(n_splits=args.folds)\n y_train = train_df[args.target_columns].values\n\n leak_free_pseudo = isinstance(pseudo_df, list)\n\n if pseudo_df is not None:\n\n if leak_free_pseudo:\n n_pseudo = len(pseudo_df[0])\n else:\n n_pseudo = len(pseudo_df)\n\n if split_pseudo:\n pseudo_kfold = KFold(args.folds)\n pseudo_ids = iter(pseudo_kfold.split(np.arange(n_pseudo)))\n else:\n pseudo_ids = iter(\n [(np.arange(len(np.pseudo)), np.arange(len(n_pseudo)))] * args.folds\n )\n\n for fold, (train_index, val_index) in enumerate(\n kf.split(train_df.values, groups=train_df.question_title)\n ):\n if not ignore_train:\n train_subdf = train_df.iloc[train_index]\n\n if pseudo_df is not None:\n pseudo_train, pseudo_valid = next(pseudo_ids)\n\n pseudo_subdf = pseudo_df if not leak_free_pseudo else pseudo_df[fold]\n\n pseudo_subdf = pseudo_subdf.iloc[pseudo_valid]\n train_subdf = pd.concat([train_subdf, pseudo_subdf], sort=True)\n\n train_set = QuestDataset.from_frame(args, train_subdf, tokenizer)\n else:\n train_set = None\n valid_set = QuestDataset.from_frame(args, train_df.iloc[val_index], tokenizer)\n\n yield (\n train_set,\n valid_set,\n train_df.iloc[train_index],\n train_df.iloc[val_index],\n )\n\n\ndef get_test_set(args, test_df, tokenizer):\n return QuestDataset.from_frame(args, test_df, tokenizer, True)\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model4_bart_code/loops.py", "content": "import numpy as np\nimport torch\nimport gc\nfrom scipy.stats import spearmanr\nfrom tqdm import tqdm\n\n\ndef train_loop(model, train_loader, optimizer, criterion, scheduler, args, iteration):\n model.train()\n\n avg_loss = 0.0\n\n optimizer.zero_grad()\n for idx, batch in enumerate(tqdm(train_loader, desc=\"Train\", ncols=80)):\n input_ids, labels, _ = batch\n input_ids, labels = (input_ids.cuda(), labels.cuda())\n\n logits = model(input_ids=input_ids.long())\n loss = criterion(logits, labels)\n\n loss.backward()\n if (iteration + 1) % args.batch_accumulation == 0:\n optimizer.step()\n scheduler.step()\n optimizer.zero_grad()\n iteration += 1\n\n avg_loss += loss.item() / (len(train_loader) * args.batch_accumulation)\n\n torch.cuda.empty_cache()\n gc.collect()\n return (avg_loss, iteration)\n\n\ndef evaluate(args, model, val_loader, criterion, val_shape):\n avg_val_loss = 0.0\n model.eval()\n\n valid_preds = np.zeros((val_shape, args.num_classes))\n original = np.zeros((val_shape, args.num_classes))\n\n with torch.no_grad():\n for idx, batch in enumerate(tqdm(val_loader, desc=\"Valid\", ncols=80)):\n input_ids, labels, _ = batch\n input_ids, labels = (\n input_ids.cuda(),\n labels.cuda(),\n )\n\n logits = model(input_ids=input_ids.long())\n\n avg_val_loss += criterion(logits, labels).item() / len(val_loader)\n valid_preds[idx * args.batch_size : (idx + 1) * args.batch_size] = (\n logits.detach().cpu().squeeze().numpy()\n )\n original[idx * args.batch_size : (idx + 1) * args.batch_size] = (\n labels.detach().cpu().squeeze().numpy()\n )\n\n score = 0\n preds = torch.sigmoid(torch.tensor(valid_preds)).numpy()\n\n for i in range(len(args.target_columns)):\n score += np.nan_to_num(spearmanr(original[:, i], preds[:, i]).correlation)\n\n return avg_val_loss, score / len(args.target_columns), preds\n\n\ndef infer(args, model, test_loader, test_shape):\n test_preds = np.zeros((test_shape, args.num_classes))\n model.eval()\n\n for idx, x_batch in enumerate(tqdm(test_loader, desc=\"Test\", ncols=80)):\n with torch.no_grad():\n predictions = model(input_ids=x_batch[0].cuda())\n test_preds[idx * args.batch_size : (idx + 1) * args.batch_size] = (\n predictions.detach().cpu().squeeze().numpy()\n )\n\n output = torch.sigmoid(torch.tensor(test_preds)).numpy()\n return output\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model4_bart_code/model.py", "content": "from fairseq import utils\nfrom fairseq.data import encoders\nfrom fairseq.models.bart import BARTModel\n\nimport torch\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\nfrom torch import nn\n\n\nclass CustomBART(nn.Module):\n def __init__(self, model_name, num_labels, num_hidden_layers=12, hidden_size=1024):\n super(CustomBART, self).__init__()\n self.num_labels = num_labels\n self.bart = BARTModel.from_pretrained(model_name)\n self.dropout = nn.Dropout(p=0.2)\n self.high_dropout = nn.Dropout(p=0.5)\n\n n_weights = num_hidden_layers + 1\n weights_init = torch.zeros(n_weights).float()\n weights_init.data[:-1] = -3\n self.layer_weights = torch.nn.Parameter(weights_init)\n self.classifier = nn.Linear(hidden_size, num_labels)\n\n def forward(self, input_ids=None):\n\n hidden_layers = self.bart.extract_features(input_ids, return_all_hiddens=True)\n\n cls_outputs = torch.stack(\n [self.dropout(layer[:, -1, :]) for layer in hidden_layers], dim=2\n )\n cls_output = (torch.softmax(self.layer_weights, dim=0) * cls_outputs).sum(-1)\n\n # multisample dropout (wut): https://arxiv.org/abs/1905.09788\n logits = torch.mean(\n torch.stack(\n [self.classifier(self.high_dropout(cls_output)) for _ in range(5)],\n dim=0,\n ),\n dim=0,\n )\n\n outputs = logits\n # add hidden states and attention if they are here\n\n return outputs # (loss), logits, (hidden_states), (attentions)\n\n\ndef get_model(args):\n model = CustomBART(args.bert_model, num_labels=args.num_classes)\n model.cuda()\n model = nn.DataParallel(model)\n\n return model\n" }, { "path": "steps7_10_inference/model4_bart_code/run.py", "content": "import random\nimport os, multiprocessing, glob\nimport numpy as np\nimport pandas as pd\nimport torch\nfrom torch import nn\nimport torch.nn.functional as F\n\nfrom fairseq.models.bart import BARTModel\nfrom model import get_model\nfrom loops import infer\nfrom dataset import get_test_set\nfrom args import args\nfrom torch.utils.data import DataLoader, Dataset\n\nPATH_TO_BART_CKPT = \"input/model4_ckpt/\"\n\ntest_df = pd.read_csv(os.path.join(args.data_path, \"test.csv\"))\nsubmission = pd.read_csv(os.path.join(args.data_path, \"sample_submission.csv\"))\nsubmission[args.target_columns] = 0.0\n\ntokenizer = BARTModel.from_pretrained(args.bert_model, include_model=False)\n\ntest_set = get_test_set(args, test_df, tokenizer)\ntest_loader = DataLoader(test_set, batch_size=args.batch_size, shuffle=False)\n\nmodel = get_model(args)\n\nfor fold in range(args.folds):\n print(\"Fold\", fold)\n model.load_state_dict(\n torch.load(\"{}/fold{}/best_model.pth\".format(PATH_TO_BART_CKPT, fold)),\n strict=False,\n )\n test_preds = infer(args, model, test_loader, test_shape=len(test_set))\n submission[args.target_columns] += test_preds\n\nsubmission[args.target_columns] /= 5\nsubmission.to_csv(args.sub_file, index=False)\n" }, { "path": "submissions/model1_submission.csv", "content": "question_asker_intent_understanding,question_body_critical,question_conversational,question_expect_short_answer,question_fact_seeking,question_has_commonly_accepted_answer,question_interestingness_others,question_interestingness_self,question_multi_intent,question_not_really_a_question,question_opinion_seeking,question_type_choice,question_type_compare,question_type_consequence,question_type_definition,question_type_entity,question_type_instructions,question_type_procedure,question_type_reason_explanation,question_type_spelling,question_well_written,answer_helpful,answer_level_of_information,answer_plausible,answer_relevance,answer_satisfaction,answer_type_instructions,answer_type_procedure,answer_type_reason_explanation,answer_well_written\n0.95566523,0.75378454,0.17333595,0.6137571,0.7005254,0.6662365,0.6866172,0.66746867,0.54916275,0.0021592202,0.6901895,0.6746117,0.022149522,0.07370594,0.0063314503,0.006470786,0.099959336,0.07329042,0.7532684,0.0010124386,0.942567,0.9257305,0.60761845,0.967241,0.9689539,0.8664031,0.033413805,0.035979897,0.8773106,0.9282943\n0.8556616,0.49010658,0.004275459,0.7536482,0.83337575,0.9413045,0.53978217,0.45796385,0.18879232,0.003258576,0.35014462,0.5162131,0.003875479,0.002891413,0.0033899148,0.0058785924,0.82048815,0.20620243,0.14454845,0.0006297707,0.6694336,0.95174897,0.6621232,0.9683324,0.98203814,0.88472384,0.8994831,0.16361575,0.0949339,0.8843771\n0.9059888,0.7179416,0.029626587,0.7860312,0.91952467,0.9263376,0.62075675,0.53780246,0.09937738,0.0049771434,0.22072844,0.7789022,0.008898588,0.027027145,0.0073680757,0.0066357693,0.06265123,0.045198232,0.6530341,0.001515358,0.90024966,0.8988558,0.5920425,0.9494212,0.9518712,0.82309407,0.041337263,0.044430263,0.80932367,0.90033466\n0.88456976,0.45260578,0.0049224882,0.70182574,0.78998077,0.90183485,0.5614253,0.4328251,0.06717655,0.006949051,0.48123026,0.019915318,0.002626856,0.0023115228,0.0017942038,0.0032267335,0.8409402,0.21455869,0.5716867,0.000404039,0.70742494,0.95001364,0.6833774,0.97665846,0.9849262,0.89181346,0.7484587,0.15801199,0.8426595,0.91756517\n0.93623656,0.47870523,0.02096982,0.88756096,0.82465583,0.92163336,0.64310694,0.63065475,0.096907414,0.005688193,0.38681117,0.4875303,0.007410699,0.011986851,0.0028267684,0.008927425,0.15902284,0.09156637,0.6573974,0.00073101127,0.73606604,0.9374124,0.6699066,0.97338563,0.97648084,0.87875783,0.21056089,0.09330945,0.69831157,0.9074179\n0.93984425,0.8563035,0.028476447,0.78639776,0.95089996,0.9349063,0.6239394,0.46251363,0.06347286,0.0031825886,0.09737617,0.01783101,0.010697587,0.0116617195,0.024649616,0.023623234,0.06987186,0.17286451,0.7258426,0.001512525,0.9095643,0.96534556,0.653771,0.97701204,0.98220557,0.93499315,0.057389814,0.121196166,0.8695208,0.926709\n0.8520066,0.4983757,0.0052439915,0.74398535,0.7643601,0.91579723,0.5427473,0.3987142,0.06538126,0.0051824627,0.4983655,0.0482006,0.0037822046,0.0019165378,0.0015560207,0.0035761658,0.9167037,0.2504429,0.13613257,0.0003769503,0.743135,0.9556351,0.6760956,0.9752673,0.98749906,0.8974937,0.8276297,0.1758501,0.61961156,0.91648215\n0.94201547,0.74849474,0.25034767,0.7574452,0.74321073,0.7695983,0.6617304,0.6800045,0.10407567,0.005189971,0.52152556,0.16092913,0.023880193,0.015555111,0.04504435,0.008767754,0.013474201,0.018798333,0.9377166,0.002643747,0.8655729,0.9414498,0.70422494,0.9666979,0.9714038,0.88981783,0.011913376,0.017704863,0.96667373,0.92295486\n0.8321873,0.40244475,0.004811447,0.7195636,0.8068183,0.9274926,0.5343999,0.3996646,0.079973504,0.003962821,0.39919823,0.032055855,0.005852896,0.0017737957,0.0023935826,0.0026279655,0.8865054,0.2426676,0.2404139,0.00036913846,0.697735,0.9638562,0.6770344,0.97765857,0.9899887,0.9159961,0.8006209,0.17164078,0.55513036,0.9170586\n0.9353903,0.6740496,0.011586797,0.8188616,0.9023945,0.9022166,0.65036833,0.53299075,0.07903912,0.005228184,0.27073902,0.013357922,0.0067756698,0.0054754186,0.0061688675,0.013236026,0.32581183,0.114364624,0.9071296,0.0008771109,0.8233614,0.9404478,0.6504018,0.97737616,0.9810504,0.89099246,0.5071543,0.12438498,0.894107,0.92396003\n0.8837037,0.558263,0.0063643134,0.69955206,0.78866684,0.919215,0.56354827,0.44096184,0.0370032,0.0042475397,0.42441574,0.02747235,0.004410946,0.0017729697,0.0028794885,0.0028986621,0.92860955,0.21167532,0.056693625,0.0004832386,0.7583214,0.9431632,0.6676532,0.9665309,0.98342144,0.88376915,0.934204,0.1268861,0.124874905,0.8996838\n0.94374955,0.86985856,0.018261986,0.9088782,0.94296086,0.9627956,0.6593332,0.5203969,0.04161085,0.0046083806,0.13693817,0.6174849,0.017339207,0.048931647,0.010898645,0.0059734182,0.065694295,0.040530995,0.5218314,0.0020271076,0.92760926,0.9552943,0.6582264,0.9706615,0.9785945,0.90977925,0.13007335,0.05254429,0.7568421,0.91261417\n0.88545835,0.6340634,0.005308209,0.66542864,0.78871953,0.92244005,0.54084206,0.4401775,0.06245566,0.0034058467,0.42301685,0.02617077,0.0028780466,0.0020622998,0.002104743,0.0026711372,0.9335691,0.21696119,0.110655405,0.00042938226,0.81546724,0.9556177,0.6715403,0.9705688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207036825,0.7465247114186189,0.9161737141965386,0.5944393062153632,0.9566047425126858,0.962423543440153,0.8255186381445416,0.820278900206803,0.12441298752318242,0.13826161757925534,0.8909169937764083\n1877,0.8398361390199363,0.40636231722319344,0.006400158453471439,0.8299522264962601,0.6792933059233498,0.9110663436107448,0.5111426129991381,0.4649007710484061,0.02808192519784337,0.009785561098346957,0.5459564321005395,0.0820725557278428,0.001938340312767664,0.00088085778755082,0.0013525913738448882,0.003893257359923108,0.7245829530519166,0.15734841409955003,0.2975109019093294,0.0001229329046544769,0.6830317556661515,0.9700078354112829,0.7006537236880016,0.982772909553602,0.9920686839089825,0.9278283805548926,0.8889165812411175,0.15936915938672253,0.3157181105823503,0.9297741944983461\n1885,0.871472927505992,0.574424423221829,0.0038795704369947045,0.8410597559152743,0.7871538325683674,0.9237943350777208,0.5494152009158244,0.4411465166048819,0.03210058306875542,0.006495489552564894,0.4253582705186128,0.0920881264243357,0.0018196381685837142,0.0014555690495468042,0.0006800561903787004,0.006201848349422763,0.8080269442621677,0.13615508549900154,0.33339855127455514,0.00011417078205746738,0.7132688140122719,0.9145842108987269,0.5875751119827571,0.9588416750555984,0.9626792338235479,0.8384920169766664,0.3538695398242403,0.07245013472386554,0.6786981619567232,0.9042714868887873\n1934,0.8880123550584498,0.54253023507877,0.004859292918230862,0.7848699552370657,0.7441490691749193,0.8934501086584197,0.5366882961550167,0.4612705553079877,0.05419513474025732,0.0032943927326822475,0.52300409615882,0.012612685785390574,0.0015867028255188431,0.0010832576351726825,0.0007676154882802115,0.001720887939853912,0.5434277104944983,0.09006963722350278,0.8852276604254594,7.668065560307281e-05,0.7655811878456416,0.9616532868354593,0.6769581839066838,0.9761606788362546,0.990133783470867,0.9243394938062537,0.8994837503803591,0.09556956429561247,0.3841171711917287,0.8842940755233772\n1959,0.9273521673397862,0.535414175732748,0.06601241789473825,0.6905123544288211,0.8805588436598013,0.845248780901246,0.6683954131668399,0.6328205680809845,0.6784849477155094,0.0014756304492260864,0.19702562009380445,0.50419849267559,0.0057006959548283834,0.003433681331803512,0.023306060420119644,0.3316415958736186,0.026205666885462886,0.03704934725032368,0.6636771212062492,0.0014002165134648214,0.8443827238750833,0.933593951757486,0.7222555246256775,0.9690145756903658,0.9790691731137577,0.8832825792447565,0.04534703995810134,0.02962678551573016,0.8203768059365185,0.9391598025507545\n1983,0.9394242259807151,0.7416298137490829,0.015235883590911794,0.6663143412242214,0.9337622980081021,0.942140091785574,0.6341532270929727,0.5525410837843749,0.4294706824265181,0.000706460628658271,0.1150589005034347,0.09841746945175804,0.004675759608011152,0.14209456048907879,0.005082926390080615,0.009292394685755653,0.08728722205087476,0.14414945781737132,0.6271442907965994,0.00026041861406626355,0.9303506846415864,0.9870846657396081,0.7448601385771662,0.9923125239434473,0.9954690382191403,0.9640563796641803,0.11337199879552631,0.13375612699503997,0.8835017220486853,0.9534368650258042\n1990,0.853454252574946,0.52662345238765,0.003667975857628532,0.8402353927454058,0.7616388987695857,0.9373318279330999,0.513104167482602,0.4104540672348559,0.048408149399595736,0.010152545881295829,0.4295104999684799,0.043969648321692846,0.001974037039138639,0.0006541631242413596,0.001250753345117837,0.02115201923474826,0.805957712508125,0.1305008067888624,0.34599767119190206,0.00018363392817457227,0.7206659447493488,0.9270840499644646,0.6198146493470027,0.9652436583553801,0.9689623519111766,0.8484972763584553,0.5684803850189939,0.08250958169103392,0.5272424209214235,0.9134125388322986\n2005,0.939096330531032,0.7813324915952533,0.09733529860917145,0.6049954759629363,0.8381283843385919,0.6855300456875822,0.6251936426200453,0.6088979344267381,0.4107487221245008,0.00078252390761917,0.39364079721486595,0.15197345974320892,0.013448830814009563,0.007908687407582136,0.02136742604366521,0.008253255887006287,0.01947065963604404,0.023036818364172353,0.9786094281516498,0.0002298032684184516,0.9317865884723885,0.9167255040143798,0.6349987821914377,0.9511776884011385,0.9669210640959862,0.8547444404672341,0.028571214521161375,0.02399291525420705,0.961347164864403,0.9295438112032517\n2018,0.9416637772201139,0.5272492524386425,0.06481488263345543,0.6779398041542292,0.6414607375075912,0.5169482703673269,0.6512441107010492,0.623208685982406,0.44436012622422744,0.0020977153684926518,0.7157158469464753,0.5571027991582047,0.20413144608425898,0.011214390359899516,0.004532287665252156,0.1955898116874188,0.35206814621401367,0.20095114196033878,0.25820551162520344,0.0011305975574127623,0.8189141650916678,0.9482947458395881,0.6881146300793708,0.9772839210120713,0.9749067866204213,0.8756871534994033,0.5375577721259575,0.22764968590186152,0.45308439076258294,0.9351957242677656\n2027,0.9549741979325018,0.8875936462104882,0.0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55297625,0.41512316,0.31395212,0.0014289675,0.29559162,0.5706938,0.0061293105,0.0029974154,0.0014460111,0.0056942594,0.8148121,0.22510983,0.26740974,0.00046193512,0.81621635,0.94498634,0.6861332,0.966958,0.9773442,0.8837002,0.856314,0.18938681,0.34149513,0.898487\n1727,0.88203096,0.6253962,0.10390078,0.74820733,0.7360172,0.7355376,0.58220905,0.48984116,0.1912052,0.003303488,0.6125867,0.7862997,0.06516303,0.020750485,0.003083295,0.010404336,0.14818041,0.06304814,0.52821666,0.00038078247,0.8277652,0.9231946,0.6568449,0.9692985,0.96358144,0.8481584,0.11307051,0.06263186,0.8569904,0.9222907\n1764,0.91675234,0.7362517,0.0055223783,0.83624613,0.9223476,0.9455662,0.59166783,0.45381448,0.19093053,0.00082349987,0.21889748,0.7059603,0.0036954083,0.0018193697,0.0011905625,0.0048953,0.7823136,0.2548509,0.10333325,0.0003055959,0.8771833,0.95540667,0.6670992,0.9743028,0.9826443,0.9024188,0.9044507,0.1804413,0.056217633,0.90088075\n1794,0.9616585,0.8246491,0.021805435,0.89242834,0.93799824,0.9538369,0.6615012,0.56953746,0.07779071,0.0017153714,0.110791154,0.84282124,0.0035838597,0.0073911385,0.0014817443,0.018570593,0.13439877,0.13336276,0.17002724,0.0011323878,0.9223711,0.9461408,0.70743746,0.97829425,0.9805028,0.9054692,0.09497378,0.11471211,0.57676125,0.9349124\n1795,0.8581428,0.53251904,0.011079514,0.77778286,0.85381526,0.9237227,0.5554396,0.4096713,0.21115398,0.0024787171,0.31127682,0.22754166,0.0036295473,0.002407543,0.0024160026,0.006665189,0.53048134,0.106524624,0.8341304,0.00041645675,0.7767363,0.96430767,0.71128005,0.98257685,0.986622,0.91369474,0.49046874,0.1368606,0.9259942,0.931796\n1807,0.8880074,0.51010317,0.03232661,0.63813925,0.87859696,0.77783227,0.59910274,0.48497266,0.68641686,0.0015413741,0.47156718,0.8295821,0.048276782,0.017426768,0.0041055265,0.040367026,0.4387163,0.1825377,0.43757546,0.000798776,0.8448165,0.8636686,0.5516569,0.9451568,0.9140779,0.72241217,0.3769812,0.14047357,0.34420678,0.8883803\n1812,0.8715997,0.5725596,0.00925101,0.7625737,0.8870216,0.91372484,0.55499804,0.41623938,0.13116172,0.006219916,0.25293568,0.177724,0.00462063,0.0035042227,0.0018976723,0.020603811,0.50471634,0.1757815,0.64292884,0.0004517643,0.7699584,0.90845186,0.6253862,0.95579064,0.9554235,0.82310194,0.42348915,0.17134789,0.6841961,0.8859087\n1816,0.8792445,0.49759138,0.007644069,0.71463555,0.8428449,0.9101307,0.5559503,0.39884654,0.067662925,0.0072522135,0.35677335,0.033353955,0.0023326024,0.0008681766,0.0015050167,0.008686889,0.84621614,0.2513911,0.41314688,0.00021597516,0.7508342,0.8900413,0.5705598,0.9529135,0.9338018,0.80088705,0.4610558,0.13804296,0.46248895,0.88269675\n1833,0.9123898,0.6028797,0.013906694,0.6082006,0.81113905,0.70077175,0.59578496,0.4973305,0.042324293,0.0036871363,0.5300218,0.0258571,0.005839299,0.00040876513,0.0016955279,0.015919602,0.8891381,0.3080566,0.07543839,0.00016733748,0.8216378,0.86248195,0.55467117,0.9342757,0.928084,0.7441405,0.81359273,0.14510421,0.06326677,0.88582975\n1847,0.8601391,0.5284861,0.0039676335,0.7229767,0.8680806,0.9249109,0.5552333,0.40893152,0.17813163,0.0016217383,0.36992264,0.18672551,0.0037654443,0.00071109954,0.0014676326,0.0035951617,0.92369944,0.29963583,0.122403175,0.0001704726,0.7395112,0.9562033,0.67458594,0.97401386,0.9814042,0.89248794,0.90907645,0.20443821,0.20772609,0.8977184\n1868,0.91028434,0.65963453,0.0022138434,0.7385846,0.9259475,0.9441189,0.57986975,0.4154833,0.24676065,0.00037146208,0.21202888,0.1638184,0.0024932579,0.00035964884,0.0015093395,0.014481439,0.944938,0.32096672,0.057538927,0.00017536977,0.7858482,0.9137154,0.58681184,0.9561852,0.95366734,0.8068052,0.8619942,0.13744716,0.08945938,0.865239\n1877,0.81270796,0.44313106,0.0069264327,0.82859087,0.8104732,0.9076222,0.5361506,0.42969602,0.046471603,0.019256692,0.42099088,0.10963682,0.005285085,0.0012924272,0.0018697005,0.0041617164,0.79846185,0.23885833,0.29882592,0.00031320262,0.6648564,0.9513366,0.6943818,0.9723802,0.9829201,0.89638156,0.8638501,0.22302918,0.3216506,0.8904241\n1885,0.86635333,0.55059224,0.004057803,0.81683165,0.84517276,0.9534451,0.55397695,0.37138537,0.04096784,0.0051011154,0.30617145,0.07816926,0.0018896105,0.0010487904,0.0014070421,0.0048980652,0.8599031,0.20038778,0.29155728,0.00013665519,0.6640285,0.9138371,0.588394,0.9614169,0.9544442,0.8247753,0.35957652,0.10360172,0.6139993,0.868348\n1934,0.8755284,0.57134646,0.0050504887,0.80821896,0.8128926,0.90633744,0.5304335,0.4056397,0.0505498,0.0075863223,0.42730376,0.022098677,0.0022752937,0.0009636562,0.0010905374,0.0015799077,0.7250591,0.14196335,0.7479158,0.00017120776,0.7256114,0.95068604,0.6722201,0.9717375,0.9823942,0.8869269,0.901171,0.14933816,0.35824394,0.8841603\n1959,0.9285765,0.5817049,0.03696527,0.7039553,0.9364922,0.8900815,0.6162162,0.522496,0.7109775,0.00074241165,0.1045101,0.48721376,0.0047523393,0.002687942,0.013223245,0.5131638,0.037211854,0.044365488,0.62122685,0.001314436,0.82201016,0.9189635,0.6962086,0.9546396,0.9575966,0.8597652,0.044797283,0.043508768,0.78652525,0.9346451\n1983,0.9279326,0.7067823,0.015143851,0.67623377,0.9524396,0.94106156,0.6036677,0.46525568,0.5171215,0.001208335,0.100302376,0.1809195,0.009114589,0.1383398,0.0051065995,0.018126931,0.1291351,0.13382383,0.6526036,0.0002478574,0.88954353,0.97860605,0.74037147,0.9842539,0.9895678,0.94052625,0.14019148,0.11768314,0.8734165,0.93714327\n1990,0.84030914,0.48573378,0.0050410475,0.8419187,0.82935584,0.9452912,0.5334763,0.37739268,0.059387695,0.011712097,0.3177044,0.05008824,0.001847011,0.0009002558,0.0024706246,0.011676429,0.82430327,0.14043696,0.4194749,0.0003579316,0.6836075,0.92461914,0.61167675,0.96797836,0.965238,0.8426025,0.46763328,0.091640174,0.6870511,0.89372\n2005,0.9098757,0.7497858,0.060908284,0.73868245,0.8710997,0.82750165,0.5689396,0.48081893,0.22405553,0.000742256,0.31228015,0.30164614,0.013020349,0.0042748665,0.012074403,0.008265181,0.041620623,0.028516239,0.9257662,0.00036047405,0.86289996,0.91427284,0.6636273,0.95849353,0.95923555,0.85072374,0.04145261,0.031404346,0.95126253,0.92201847\n2018,0.92912805,0.57041675,0.091792256,0.7005402,0.6920225,0.54323936,0.65408987,0.5944063,0.37619048,0.0024892255,0.6931843,0.4679701,0.2084271,0.008779573,0.005336322,0.23835252,0.4199629,0.27771655,0.20982619,0.0010688279,0.79209757,0.9456408,0.7207724,0.9730326,0.9687588,0.89161366,0.4886438,0.2655359,0.54348195,0.91132045\n2027,0.93522245,0.84819376,0.0044333064,0.85059816,0.9203569,0.9654296,0.60166836,0.42995277,0.0660431,0.0009348214,0.14988409,0.32868776,0.0015493371,0.0008030388,0.001451292,0.005894499,0.7864789,0.15366103,0.12503798,0.00037443242,0.91227186,0.95312303,0.6923646,0.97776407,0.98002535,0.9106273,0.5237589,0.105294935,0.51964724,0.9275911\n2042,0.8923759,0.6313599,0.0044719917,0.84241796,0.88324916,0.93432087,0.54925865,0.40628093,0.03615179,0.002293013,0.28936738,0.17838126,0.0020732414,0.00053178583,0.0013741349,0.0027288613,0.85685486,0.24501692,0.07366496,0.00011204633,0.76693565,0.9196039,0.5943145,0.958867,0.968439,0.845052,0.8907956,0.11675032,0.02168175,0.86236846\n2066,0.82592624,0.44107053,0.006425527,0.66053945,0.8424284,0.89941096,0.53622395,0.38025713,0.041596312,0.007961822,0.3485581,0.016458463,0.0041771987,0.0009544507,0.002232012,0.0075254603,0.8517389,0.28916088,0.34494492,0.00013957471,0.6839217,0.9589239,0.6794732,0.9732027,0.98212516,0.8965331,0.7708078,0.23597181,0.5932462,0.9171125\n2070,0.93733394,0.77799034,0.02072975,0.89945483,0.94184905,0.92161506,0.6286018,0.5189552,0.20865852,0.0005000138,0.1160776,0.90837437,0.0043812674,0.0029629415,0.0066986005,0.1523992,0.124699116,0.04336103,0.17834443,0.00051462516,0.90704703,0.94737095,0.6592848,0.97262543,0.97595304,0.90700495,0.0341631,0.031560034,0.65085423,0.9448215\n2075,0.882167,0.5862057,0.019016868,0.52102375,0.86360204,0.78544647,0.5975635,0.47317946,0.71919423,0.0004442213,0.5006228,0.50285125,0.03649706,0.0062623015,0.003133906,0.018235948,0.8208799,0.38975134,0.29145983,0.0002750349,0.8544764,0.9444433,0.6673144,0.9688377,0.972037,0.8595278,0.7777083,0.30051857,0.45280036,0.9178565\n2094,0.9541298,0.6796997,0.017359031,0.72356516,0.91390353,0.9148829,0.6802868,0.6066421,0.7053868,0.00029115457,0.26441497,0.79798996,0.007925432,0.0555739,0.0020561432,0.0073481044,0.37137333,0.15062864,0.49185455,0.00033372262,0.87411606,0.9605722,0.6843422,0.9844912,0.9822927,0.89702225,0.23340061,0.08737767,0.81216943,0.91791964\n2128,0.87295395,0.70075744,0.24906883,0.39557698,0.6171729,0.360188,0.54322946,0.47926137,0.30141234,0.0016866262,0.7819865,0.2030399,0.8380904,0.006572093,0.018787934,0.013978064,0.09031697,0.039378636,0.5425439,0.00035099997,0.85831726,0.91307265,0.6726606,0.9548666,0.9555933,0.8572451,0.059938315,0.048845913,0.8467501,0.9313397\n2163,0.92534196,0.66290146,0.009416614,0.71317255,0.88128465,0.91956997,0.6045085,0.46256354,0.38114014,0.0009142386,0.29707286,0.22319575,0.002665073,0.0044219373,0.0017807361,0.0069952444,0.7380045,0.19065437,0.6341567,0.0002963137,0.86108214,0.9063119,0.5973271,0.96270025,0.9474326,0.8175427,0.4256702,0.12002413,0.62620574,0.8902059\n2180,0.9064322,0.64731777,0.0070954305,0.70792633,0.8276703,0.87367386,0.57056844,0.44009012,0.047102977,0.0014284014,0.45820826,0.03471316,0.004171809,0.0005656408,0.0009701808,0.0044471677,0.9313832,0.34255055,0.069853105,0.000107983535,0.82403374,0.9391975,0.6297101,0.9653953,0.9748041,0.8512977,0.8193402,0.17688896,0.21936059,0.9013454\n2203,0.87095845,0.6392902,0.009686039,0.55526227,0.8828264,0.9112575,0.57342386,0.4219719,0.32004374,0.0009494428,0.2735863,0.26822603,0.0044588596,0.0022753943,0.0053787944,0.0049035093,0.7918053,0.23386139,0.47757143,0.00032530059,0.8560402,0.9312701,0.65711045,0.96046543,0.9672601,0.86762244,0.52594465,0.1596435,0.7050186,0.92108506\n2230,0.8534829,0.5477211,0.045837216,0.6468258,0.7452332,0.63954943,0.5510954,0.43431208,0.42392457,0.0018823964,0.65641785,0.39658993,0.114798695,0.0024891354,0.0039338917,0.07766405,0.7161698,0.25510183,0.22813545,0.0008290127,0.8134168,0.89675766,0.6191664,0.9393007,0.93887496,0.8046734,0.7630087,0.20865786,0.17938443,0.8843606\n2244,0.919407,0.7951997,0.00476167,0.84376115,0.90807486,0.93631583,0.5929032,0.45634478,0.03524508,0.0013495898,0.21951687,0.14350508,0.002914156,0.0007310967,0.0011693531,0.005749374,0.8506009,0.22936004,0.059563324,0.00020373231,0.84550446,0.9581853,0.717163,0.9736017,0.9850173,0.91471946,0.8639507,0.16083023,0.17402366,0.89766735\n2257,0.9078866,0.8326794,0.006005975,0.7676354,0.9574459,0.9518857,0.5664429,0.4250528,0.13327074,0.0005934923,0.108157694,0.88605773,0.002975887,0.00094130385,0.0028935377,0.007738628,0.5062221,0.10639358,0.15233165,0.00036287,0.92802113,0.92422676,0.6487041,0.95916444,0.96771324,0.86009693,0.42348492,0.08201891,0.31882504,0.93798673\n2277,0.92940885,0.7615078,0.017470546,0.7653455,0.97410506,0.94514173,0.5748363,0.51471704,0.27804816,0.0004454746,0.058690578,0.35825354,0.012314512,0.0036720468,0.09049083,0.018207392,0.019710729,0.019387404,0.86524945,0.0012384434,0.8885161,0.93980753,0.7047958,0.9651242,0.97584134,0.901327,0.015873233,0.023554584,0.953268,0.9455387\n2278,0.9237629,0.674053,0.0038549057,0.89985234,0.8484273,0.9461438,0.59912276,0.461165,0.026691915,0.0059964606,0.3097961,0.035507955,0.0013817219,0.00058961776,0.00083315844,0.0046978863,0.8563025,0.17211203,0.2971451,0.00014643297,0.76353836,0.95309675,0.65589136,0.9792726,0.98102283,0.8939519,0.9125782,0.12099605,0.08874754,0.8819481\n2286,0.90833974,0.69856584,0.007927881,0.6789477,0.8660366,0.9041844,0.5704437,0.41271108,0.11316365,0.0008198481,0.3426587,0.212883,0.0026664687,0.00052452437,0.0011888779,0.0039013973,0.8912978,0.2732958,0.11947418,0.00011214349,0.88009375,0.9166119,0.596402,0.9610582,0.9565399,0.83857745,0.64890677,0.15041812,0.23670842,0.91254514\n2303,0.9598965,0.76897043,0.15056545,0.90822756,0.5516509,0.5253932,0.6480629,0.6863844,0.025145268,0.0037406676,0.72904605,0.4107089,0.013998933,0.0013283177,0.03053242,0.0072949077,0.20453776,0.09562895,0.24010272,0.0015409536,0.9086439,0.9160634,0.703833,0.96932507,0.9679369,0.8815368,0.08506922,0.077971436,0.6134547,0.9367104\n2335,0.87354296,0.4935622,0.05757386,0.6057702,0.8279112,0.58350235,0.60242015,0.5114283,0.22329283,0.005400142,0.4822487,0.20044257,0.014135412,0.0036693506,0.0069154077,0.16987231,0.5567193,0.28002614,0.19831266,0.0003088338,0.8125846,0.83434844,0.57760626,0.9283023,0.88283104,0.71035,0.35907507,0.16899988,0.31731692,0.90614647\n2374,0.8687578,0.47647652,0.07085706,0.5792809,0.6684934,0.5662938,0.6025533,0.5211137,0.21123658,0.0077213245,0.6499206,0.1795713,0.016443279,0.00588357,0.0062714745,0.053279158,0.44188908,0.17282486,0.48665112,0.00040516804,0.77286905,0.8494328,0.5845866,0.93793416,0.9045057,0.7143516,0.13039199,0.10381746,0.7925886,0.911127\n2387,0.9359076,0.63716674,0.12445082,0.5229884,0.5663148,0.2920394,0.6662434,0.60774964,0.543828,0.0008430503,0.84819657,0.2618425,0.11872588,0.003996655,0.0042717843,0.10216626,0.71912694,0.34840673,0.19368604,0.0003896256,0.9037951,0.9350363,0.6687201,0.9722987,0.9671017,0.8638502,0.5045965,0.266659,0.5552126,0.9324158\n2395,0.867425,0.5009279,0.009005713,0.68561673,0.8757383,0.9116663,0.5655086,0.43470222,0.44729856,0.001431595,0.335205,0.27354044,0.009668527,0.004086026,0.0037744702,0.005869694,0.699463,0.19397463,0.6579059,0.00036459544,0.7609994,0.9435706,0.65758455,0.9744095,0.9740616,0.8699481,0.4176053,0.15438218,0.88740623,0.91216046\n2455,0.80443335,0.44664258,0.0064735995,0.67742413,0.8847038,0.94419926,0.5446684,0.3784931,0.35465366,0.003476129,0.2675716,0.490579,0.0046784286,0.0037573606,0.0020076586,0.006024998,0.67071074,0.1631412,0.6487264,0.00037046112,0.739913,0.95002854,0.6906196,0.97458893,0.98040724,0.8901558,0.5876815,0.16719879,0.82664764,0.9151068\n2465,0.858878,0.58123153,0.005354581,0.7468922,0.8917274,0.9307635,0.5597134,0.39659795,0.14587036,0.0016664332,0.27552006,0.5959673,0.0023890089,0.001193409,0.0012411169,0.009901523,0.9017433,0.25876635,0.08282034,0.00018110682,0.7837298,0.9129093,0.5990267,0.9611843,0.9577157,0.8197547,0.7589785,0.14371206,0.20946771,0.8955943\n2474,0.95302236,0.6861223,0.04110607,0.8333924,0.9050885,0.6580816,0.6009468,0.6216713,0.085771985,0.0024770258,0.21854563,0.061361007,0.009487129,0.0039876793,0.13845655,0.12524328,0.1529334,0.12267953,0.22745627,0.0006675909,0.8818202,0.8985446,0.63704246,0.94346493,0.93944037,0.81705743,0.0756521,0.06578989,0.41504908,0.9165177\n2487,0.90091854,0.6337511,0.27898538,0.316564,0.71537626,0.49966398,0.608328,0.5700739,0.5042388,0.0015627615,0.48560932,0.12937929,0.017159916,0.007009701,0.07607442,0.019305239,0.031306893,0.08323039,0.8936442,0.000429134,0.86826867,0.89693034,0.6555751,0.9446027,0.9545599,0.83848846,0.011464467,0.06051406,0.96586204,0.93037987\n2493,0.8560013,0.4683011,0.003924296,0.7695821,0.8210543,0.94517547,0.53378147,0.36819628,0.15403171,0.0025022905,0.37680006,0.03778854,0.0010968011,0.0010896324,0.0012515826,0.0028229523,0.83948743,0.12769553,0.7501506,0.00017786754,0.67520833,0.9136976,0.59704834,0.96252537,0.96008575,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8182538,0.0016023109,0.0077487878,0.8362348,0.21746433,0.3453064,0.00020725353,0.8102909,0.9518759,0.6243524,0.96842283,0.98375964,0.8762722,0.87675905,0.17058362,0.3573607,0.909144\n1727,0.9155049,0.57623464,0.07417287,0.7701209,0.75224465,0.7832201,0.6102705,0.56046724,0.22635356,0.0033916605,0.67305094,0.76090026,0.088723704,0.06546371,0.0026633092,0.02056614,0.23041399,0.14204934,0.4924857,0.00042601023,0.83614314,0.9482093,0.65471745,0.9692279,0.97878665,0.85566,0.20616387,0.10257094,0.89982474,0.93695015\n1764,0.9397146,0.63043916,0.0040128063,0.80568564,0.8935509,0.9318388,0.5706411,0.5043025,0.25191343,0.00086612336,0.31441608,0.70571476,0.0029145288,0.0015286541,0.0011589482,0.0066552926,0.8710456,0.20814028,0.11043145,0.00013508613,0.8425354,0.9445658,0.6040138,0.96387327,0.9804729,0.87661344,0.93050295,0.1252631,0.06566303,0.9028598\n1794,0.9682312,0.7944618,0.015904833,0.93827444,0.9269745,0.95156544,0.6979384,0.6619791,0.105367936,0.0021087795,0.16538723,0.8055339,0.0051364913,0.0074277963,0.0019754649,0.044383444,0.16054407,0.19512345,0.16417386,0.00077184505,0.90972567,0.95019543,0.66017365,0.9707595,0.9764399,0.8995715,0.17873272,0.16651991,0.60899466,0.9265406\n1795,0.91595477,0.49929535,0.009276033,0.83633834,0.85902554,0.92556643,0.5746805,0.47283244,0.1778937,0.0019615793,0.43755278,0.15234828,0.0033806842,0.0049207173,0.0018543502,0.0054756408,0.61653185,0.11769879,0.8637185,0.00017218661,0.793231,0.9723022,0.6768609,0.98265064,0.9918927,0.91439396,0.581419,0.09838137,0.9362674,0.936762\n1807,0.9305313,0.43983632,0.025415588,0.71841615,0.86574084,0.7740236,0.6172815,0.55354315,0.6893639,0.0014531022,0.5996027,0.81947446,0.057179164,0.018830663,0.0039074095,0.05076529,0.49126735,0.20994328,0.44870302,0.0003584392,0.83620423,0.90085053,0.5117807,0.94868875,0.95347685,0.73880726,0.5095816,0.13651535,0.36940607,0.90654033\n1812,0.91830885,0.49148777,0.011083558,0.79922664,0.8671111,0.89273596,0.57296705,0.4846507,0.25020337,0.0036223894,0.42675924,0.27696142,0.0045235315,0.003915679,0.0017237073,0.029113824,0.6695311,0.23559318,0.62910646,0.00023481097,0.74801433,0.9336238,0.6091429,0.9646219,0.97290695,0.83835316,0.665288,0.1979435,0.664136,0.8983488\n1816,0.90169346,0.4776015,0.007880251,0.7966776,0.85089314,0.92401326,0.5702066,0.44138494,0.058678605,0.00860013,0.40959382,0.030434757,0.0025396105,0.0012483918,0.0010939186,0.01071209,0.86229336,0.21730223,0.4496452,0.00014209774,0.7232832,0.91532195,0.56835526,0.96361506,0.96248114,0.8252885,0.57591766,0.1179925,0.51920664,0.90083694\n1833,0.9304166,0.5568305,0.009586055,0.6990756,0.8088248,0.7748828,0.5890783,0.51065326,0.047301847,0.002111384,0.5105787,0.034795277,0.0037216167,0.00042155018,0.0010668788,0.026028039,0.93291295,0.28144652,0.062641636,7.0189715e-05,0.777582,0.88319993,0.56077,0.947532,0.9598022,0.7713907,0.86820817,0.121715255,0.05403802,0.90488285\n1847,0.91659784,0.46159488,0.004814747,0.71606934,0.803564,0.89708006,0.5378337,0.45994064,0.2398703,0.0015135356,0.53248715,0.30976245,0.0040297653,0.0010260644,0.0012255844,0.005159212,0.94289196,0.22446443,0.18692926,9.115028e-05,0.7087451,0.96322095,0.6378682,0.9788885,0.98809075,0.8916303,0.93085456,0.14699396,0.23292263,0.91795003\n1868,0.9214171,0.5448986,0.0029612642,0.7103923,0.89889884,0.89920247,0.56189513,0.46162868,0.45498598,0.0007254187,0.33377478,0.235357,0.0032502476,0.00050969695,0.002070607,0.03485047,0.9504325,0.33242616,0.10292808,0.00014642249,0.74598616,0.89858466,0.55355513,0.9466288,0.9604375,0.78217655,0.86750823,0.13635622,0.1295219,0.88238376\n1877,0.89484346,0.42954603,0.0062371762,0.8147919,0.8324508,0.90839034,0.5429149,0.48934075,0.051086932,0.0071243322,0.44093308,0.107648894,0.004932658,0.0024563756,0.0024964227,0.007921537,0.8109545,0.20748152,0.36573735,0.0003078631,0.64748424,0.9578724,0.6658096,0.9726893,0.987183,0.8957473,0.8900941,0.1610585,0.40321368,0.90050757\n1885,0.8875307,0.54036945,0.0028148245,0.8490532,0.86057633,0.94758517,0.57737637,0.4572295,0.037249953,0.007398933,0.36494794,0.0658692,0.0017273016,0.0012366634,0.0008826883,0.0060475166,0.9045807,0.19864005,0.2522904,9.774289e-05,0.6636648,0.88697064,0.5262018,0.94706297,0.95495415,0.7833061,0.57973015,0.0773357,0.4496031,0.86722195\n1934,0.92140824,0.52127576,0.004557565,0.7837685,0.8228357,0.9019995,0.55337286,0.4527756,0.04942545,0.0022767922,0.4918782,0.01414059,0.0016535493,0.0021068186,0.00088957255,0.0016250212,0.79349273,0.1415667,0.77099425,4.8465616e-05,0.720812,0.95694804,0.6532918,0.97422737,0.9882794,0.8968768,0.91076684,0.108886436,0.3258723,0.87918884\n1959,0.93414885,0.46309376,0.15550883,0.66424435,0.8931572,0.776049,0.642763,0.60461766,0.744812,0.0026975498,0.3060355,0.36254194,0.0147857275,0.0058824043,0.035590075,0.5099102,0.033205148,0.10412004,0.7309768,0.0015115422,0.8310048,0.93091404,0.6749839,0.9624262,0.96985793,0.82515264,0.04413324,0.06852166,0.9086855,0.9347759\n1983,0.94601244,0.61646813,0.031260222,0.5899268,0.9259411,0.8928788,0.6387702,0.5520311,0.61472213,0.0011696144,0.28233284,0.16548458,0.030702965,0.2699227,0.009302706,0.015991595,0.20016026,0.29292342,0.6171862,0.00023057508,0.9031046,0.977936,0.7059363,0.98338485,0.99255574,0.93033946,0.21353719,0.23438759,0.8913053,0.9404329\n1990,0.88102424,0.4864898,0.005870103,0.854715,0.8526437,0.92300516,0.5615435,0.46195942,0.08389275,0.008626437,0.3921453,0.079141594,0.002903336,0.0017394462,0.0022763556,0.024862964,0.80443203,0.16153166,0.4392777,0.00025327998,0.6911922,0.9261035,0.58466315,0.962947,0.96818453,0.82566315,0.51731086,0.08784167,0.70747256,0.9023513\n2005,0.9203575,0.65622777,0.103395715,0.76497084,0.8883244,0.8207787,0.6201499,0.57803804,0.32937366,0.00091395556,0.43271604,0.29185012,0.017417315,0.013045964,0.018288568,0.017783048,0.03579961,0.049201332,0.9618911,0.0003541383,0.8842664,0.9436764,0.6454079,0.95621413,0.9789825,0.86877704,0.041519552,0.034422725,0.9774401,0.93051237\n2018,0.95400345,0.5295848,0.10500209,0.66209006,0.68776,0.5096468,0.65608823,0.62015235,0.3833587,0.00244376,0.75723964,0.48486465,0.14191654,0.018239636,0.0068983445,0.17617029,0.4837456,0.3061605,0.23987183,0.0006129307,0.798684,0.9571363,0.6895284,0.9752071,0.9815194,0.8683805,0.5945455,0.26602998,0.55858433,0.92808425\n2027,0.96119773,0.84391147,0.0028111648,0.89704984,0.93583405,0.97070247,0.6288272,0.50378627,0.086226925,0.0004523482,0.15792304,0.31098387,0.0011123504,0.0009808489,0.00092478684,0.0069343876,0.8090459,0.13071622,0.12943117,0.00010080557,0.92471004,0.9593471,0.6567064,0.9750668,0.98410016,0.9101905,0.6771402,0.08034163,0.5316049,0.9381291\n2042,0.9212342,0.5804334,0.0036244688,0.84553874,0.8603729,0.93339676,0.56066823,0.49187428,0.038867027,0.0016112677,0.32491785,0.19204767,0.0017051777,0.00057515694,0.0010828468,0.0039970153,0.900483,0.2034005,0.08155788,6.6956614e-05,0.76296175,0.9235748,0.5694575,0.957797,0.9773621,0.85917085,0.9227151,0.087157354,0.026311718,0.8808255\n2066,0.8813029,0.44173905,0.0075197928,0.6794546,0.85361314,0.88674307,0.53534645,0.4219728,0.05094323,0.0040827403,0.4378916,0.02350509,0.004591213,0.0019028137,0.0018831438,0.014700402,0.8823465,0.30340666,0.33323795,0.00013019597,0.6695082,0.9571354,0.65325254,0.9737858,0.98498094,0.8812741,0.82257193,0.22831397,0.59124994,0.91679627\n2070,0.94225866,0.74210423,0.0168864,0.9528481,0.955718,0.93728966,0.63638633,0.5754518,0.2370351,0.0010866175,0.123080745,0.9034563,0.0076246657,0.0038484347,0.007902101,0.24087393,0.08576686,0.071126595,0.19581911,0.00067679,0.8953486,0.9643073,0.66243213,0.97606474,0.9859799,0.9145952,0.049819373,0.036161974,0.8156445,0.9458996\n2075,0.9331537,0.5350044,0.019873537,0.5593115,0.8455196,0.7770185,0.58809584,0.47994825,0.7324486,0.0006344271,0.58163756,0.52717435,0.022974586,0.0058194106,0.0037911749,0.036534615,0.87626934,0.42447954,0.25708044,0.0002075185,0.85103494,0.9535363,0.6419201,0.97091645,0.9837145,0.8539845,0.8271042,0.3384784,0.4920417,0.93681026\n2094,0.9691453,0.5707279,0.014007939,0.76759577,0.88271487,0.89481664,0.68206847,0.6545638,0.7799049,0.00076346216,0.4873105,0.7816464,0.01162239,0.07061142,0.002096646,0.01100597,0.45980707,0.21928199,0.6804148,0.00024220212,0.8884837,0.9691705,0.6225653,0.9841695,0.98765945,0.88340443,0.29765463,0.111130565,0.899862,0.9331831\n2128,0.90896,0.639541,0.18529837,0.42341498,0.7497978,0.46181965,0.61710626,0.5500383,0.29485062,0.0014105755,0.75568855,0.13746609,0.7224374,0.028091239,0.041608147,0.05024438,0.14617883,0.097741865,0.49715248,0.00035931796,0.8440012,0.9425385,0.6668751,0.9643803,0.9771244,0.83493376,0.085413225,0.06763742,0.8692967,0.9442578\n2163,0.9554849,0.60404325,0.008935184,0.7838413,0.88194346,0.91644734,0.6130856,0.5062935,0.52428293,0.0007916994,0.43119806,0.26071522,0.003204012,0.003709298,0.0012632663,0.007713828,0.7862154,0.20175661,0.7242664,0.0001308293,0.85984296,0.93757546,0.5697204,0.9738014,0.97521275,0.8460994,0.5628454,0.1079809,0.68500215,0.90796196\n2180,0.9251901,0.59737724,0.0065778396,0.71762323,0.7681095,0.85310525,0.57237357,0.46740776,0.08921791,0.001151574,0.58300376,0.05130815,0.0036051904,0.0013441733,0.0007610089,0.007437421,0.9510429,0.30739814,0.08303899,5.3541597e-05,0.815627,0.9420888,0.6181643,0.9681328,0.9828284,0.84800637,0.87073535,0.16193701,0.24298729,0.9241369\n2203,0.90385824,0.55699253,0.009405718,0.61051065,0.90152335,0.8921358,0.5843156,0.45256585,0.41791964,0.0012130666,0.33486712,0.2813455,0.004521947,0.0033879683,0.0051842188,0.009535307,0.8145574,0.34891668,0.5462634,0.00026550583,0.8384993,0.94195557,0.60896975,0.9623219,0.9806071,0.8639648,0.5271656,0.22197908,0.8019978,0.9322251\n2230,0.8988087,0.481574,0.06305079,0.60367745,0.69280094,0.58891,0.5708636,0.47123095,0.3071037,0.001768392,0.719369,0.27922755,0.04959353,0.0030175564,0.0046587302,0.058134466,0.76701665,0.29477176,0.2076564,0.00033406608,0.8042297,0.89728147,0.5758597,0.9329834,0.96188515,0.7745635,0.7940688,0.16753006,0.13644926,0.90641576\n2244,0.94713104,0.77264845,0.0053500393,0.83669645,0.8726935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98825\n1983,0.91565096,0.71534044,0.017818637,0.670916,0.8918828,0.90857536,0.631288,0.5374622,0.5628339,0.001089043,0.23516805,0.14752853,0.013264073,0.2908874,0.0054085567,0.011551178,0.08291364,0.15039936,0.7677159,0.00013949993,0.8805525,0.9796153,0.72667015,0.9795861,0.9929052,0.95202106,0.13326266,0.18247238,0.85001254,0.9414722\n1990,0.8696514,0.50050896,0.005770926,0.7897573,0.76741314,0.9193996,0.5045451,0.4094974,0.04271006,0.019253328,0.45446256,0.031715315,0.0024889673,0.0020341102,0.0016323024,0.027728304,0.7207692,0.14789407,0.43957677,0.00036516646,0.684421,0.93277204,0.6154416,0.9500636,0.960644,0.8495438,0.46813262,0.13506325,0.4724516,0.9044089\n2005,0.93456197,0.75580895,0.1083245,0.75567305,0.8147817,0.80700874,0.5772161,0.54303145,0.2273164,0.0011835898,0.45729017,0.17920415,0.017447986,0.0067472802,0.028070996,0.014839099,0.020066682,0.02937047,0.9618223,0.00052985206,0.8998256,0.95150554,0.70532066,0.95482856,0.9793951,0.90659535,0.032117207,0.047434565,0.945653,0.93853194\n2018,0.9513289,0.5788471,0.035302896,0.67279917,0.7398895,0.5811017,0.63393384,0.6016183,0.46611896,0.0012462907,0.63538474,0.47108454,0.10137735,0.014144512,0.0048174188,0.19127965,0.37589684,0.2199847,0.2394714,0.00086215785,0.8090511,0.96605664,0.7212631,0.9778331,0.9809394,0.9180886,0.5592775,0.2672216,0.4490489,0.9316511\n2027,0.9590203,0.8818574,0.00387957,0.8734534,0.8820003,0.945948,0.62358224,0.52968925,0.063760705,0.00073008856,0.25294274,0.24215207,0.0015842619,0.0011693499,0.0007414716,0.00938643,0.73899496,0.14690737,0.102843285,0.00019558666,0.9375092,0.9681061,0.7139699,0.97800076,0.98574805,0.93186873,0.6118418,0.1460065,0.3820236,0.94929165\n2042,0.91778255,0.65103006,0.0039515374,0.80058473,0.80416816,0.91223925,0.57059455,0.4851762,0.03334945,0.0016013363,0.40844002,0.103193894,0.0014374439,0.00054919097,0.00067816593,0.0036345671,0.86643183,0.2088641,0.061438225,7.7641394e-05,0.7974515,0.95371604,0.58966106,0.9630363,0.9819525,0.88224363,0.91636276,0.12203731,0.0141498055,0.8965458\n2066,0.86608654,0.5081389,0.006198889,0.67386955,0.7883027,0.89697117,0.5106771,0.36523387,0.05231221,0.0031287547,0.43241858,0.019638032,0.0045670695,0.0014416298,0.0013108336,0.011791281,0.7924537,0.26182142,0.33696756,0.00010541459,0.7254361,0.9702932,0.7034659,0.97570467,0.98878855,0.92480826,0.8215086,0.3352652,0.42908847,0.93291926\n2070,0.96520835,0.84523493,0.023623396,0.93412423,0.9357196,0.89126843,0.6474892,0.63756096,0.27352625,0.00043128888,0.167023,0.8926523,0.010546766,0.004209869,0.012141638,0.44999513,0.040738285,0.02934373,0.19019818,0.000605226,0.9289227,0.96172774,0.6867965,0.96977186,0.98187965,0.92844224,0.020103054,0.02781811,0.59988374,0.94655216\n2075,0.9190064,0.61725503,0.014314736,0.5392627,0.79073197,0.7871438,0.56428903,0.46421498,0.63867164,0.00039252214,0.60285276,0.47087255,0.020274926,0.005822868,0.002076147,0.022095643,0.77149487,0.30723384,0.30741042,0.00014781888,0.8658047,0.96282196,0.6885131,0.97351116,0.9844561,0.9071409,0.77678674,0.3029161,0.32954767,0.93144596\n2094,0.9699773,0.6746884,0.02003858,0.7580926,0.79901046,0.8398355,0.6799356,0.6755094,0.6588084,0.0005331958,0.5314629,0.7234401,0.013707852,0.06519796,0.0023109447,0.01523483,0.32605815,0.117990516,0.62561226,0.0003230405,0.88012135,0.9649638,0.64001924,0.98084366,0.98067594,0.9101344,0.2729156,0.097745106,0.73325735,0.93027526\n2128,0.9241358,0.76759577,0.16783136,0.33202037,0.65946615,0.29181325,0.5529425,0.50949526,0.28194657,0.001707617,0.7279478,0.116528444,0.85176367,0.011952102,0.03902311,0.04536374,0.037553422,0.052749857,0.64243764,0.000353431,0.896357,0.9247892,0.72462994,0.9528935,0.96870494,0.86920416,0.05953179,0.09838886,0.8069709,0.956951\n2163,0.95354784,0.6950698,0.009306148,0.68312645,0.84610486,0.87946904,0.6170288,0.5417265,0.45162308,0.00073794526,0.43227813,0.2472898,0.00397616,0.0050596623,0.0011688293,0.009817448,0.6411878,0.18018188,0.73231673,0.00022389254,0.89156914,0.93348336,0.59578526,0.9617608,0.9630262,0.8670797,0.47044414,0.1405463,0.4964669,0.90417105\n2180,0.9115236,0.6681938,0.008685214,0.6826095,0.70601207,0.86439836,0.5501676,0.43911406,0.09512876,0.0011818632,0.6065384,0.06835164,0.004561186,0.0019931402,0.00075436325,0.007174738,0.86396205,0.29873502,0.14353287,0.000106220104,0.83880115,0.9552686,0.6451945,0.9682463,0.98256665,0.88558006,0.77873963,0.24214719,0.2162841,0.9268767\n2203,0.88229007,0.6371298,0.011718882,0.5431563,0.8428444,0.87125,0.55805516,0.43270087,0.36790186,0.00099337,0.3664786,0.22694628,0.007781652,0.0033859145,0.0056466213,0.016853627,0.6701463,0.336574,0.57757646,0.00035008212,0.8713187,0.9414792,0.6751483,0.9531607,0.9769844,0.89611864,0.443749,0.30896777,0.6731549,0.9340028\n2230,0.9025163,0.56562966,0.0556575,0.56480676,0.6327702,0.5202224,0.5245994,0.43117452,0.31767562,0.0016610451,0.7308828,0.284277,0.0779111,0.0027911416,0.0032811891,0.110273965,0.50595796,0.2081726,0.26489243,0.00040703712,0.82663876,0.93489844,0.6313313,0.952654,0.9739618,0.8581216,0.6935599,0.2142472,0.12022275,0.91160923\n2244,0.9473085,0.8338023,0.00447693,0.848714,0.8188627,0.9314435,0.5968314,0.5017874,0.037717585,0.0007699402,0.38695335,0.10947322,0.001631232,0.0009955425,0.0004533901,0.005840127,0.83134735,0.13772237,0.060930327,8.059027e-05,0.8875921,0.9710096,0.7199268,0.97805244,0.98964965,0.93394464,0.88595957,0.1536673,0.11576145,0.93010926\n2257,0.91634756,0.8123964,0.0074463636,0.7569286,0.9483887,0.93271464,0.5783297,0.47751054,0.12019065,0.00077142374,0.124396935,0.7627101,0.00520085,0.0017679216,0.0038880354,0.042729367,0.2889595,0.15406772,0.23640667,0.0003178668,0.921097,0.9126471,0.655458,0.92256194,0.95533115,0.84502286,0.3727281,0.15855004,0.28402615,0.9296976\n2277,0.9423531,0.7752354,0.015705978,0.85790896,0.97457665,0.9535373,0.62223786,0.5908303,0.21648377,0.00054780865,0.076833345,0.19921091,0.024127526,0.0031100889,0.18966247,0.04778511,0.009274005,0.02262078,0.8972565,0.0017232192,0.9034701,0.960319,0.7345311,0.9562686,0.9845946,0.9261033,0.012652017,0.03399406,0.93743485,0.94995815\n2278,0.9411536,0.66051733,0.007946173,0.81302804,0.78231436,0.85742027,0.6037678,0.53121066,0.027433002,0.0027108572,0.49159047,0.036206152,0.0016178756,0.001054711,0.00069122296,0.009248104,0.7523466,0.13694215,0.26942384,7.454407e-05,0.79195905,0.96731395,0.65335846,0.97615725,0.9884513,0.92405117,0.913211,0.14673653,0.04427501,0.91608644\n2286,0.93836576,0.7506504,0.007900127,0.6704727,0.80986917,0.8628061,0.58177006,0.48212895,0.15142426,0.00062867405,0.46023035,0.22758509,0.003607245,0.00091913063,0.0008620449,0.009825824,0.8265174,0.28082883,0.1446835,0.00011431756,0.9099201,0.93667835,0.6104954,0.9598713,0.97182095,0.8608729,0.6898248,0.20056742,0.16376257,0.92933226\n2303,0.9769097,0.8502114,0.2024695,0.9309682,0.42087707,0.4026016,0.68386257,0.77309924,0.020947756,0.0029049471,0.7997744,0.14267445,0.017999683,0.0031364574,0.11513733,0.018239798,0.06632845,0.052688573,0.23596276,0.001583281,0.92394793,0.9496588,0.71867955,0.9735661,0.97824216,0.893371,0.05115734,0.051176384,0.61337686,0.9582611\n2335,0.90567786,0.5243223,0.05159782,0.62466115,0.6712902,0.57297677,0.6047683,0.5489206,0.25607243,0.0037825797,0.6591353,0.30197698,0.011892952,0.0057117506,0.0028558767,0.13598804,0.49409068,0.18776558,0.26049817,0.0002300904,0.80373025,0.9086725,0.6168674,0.95431525,0.9540501,0.7990082,0.4674919,0.15792191,0.25498044,0.9233407\n2374,0.9118624,0.5510237,0.0831854,0.57707256,0.6237896,0.4624302,0.6105438,0.5628459,0.16527495,0.0054323073,0.7140342,0.16219576,0.026155751,0.0071726055,0.006364991,0.13793735,0.31257185,0.13469866,0.50296295,0.00032737793,0.8204575,0.90468013,0.6342348,0.9490386,0.94755256,0.7917033,0.13257621,0.12021752,0.7582596,0.9425007\n2387,0.96659017,0.7471643,0.094102226,0.5298284,0.45283344,0.25938198,0.6527342,0.6190519,0.427565,0.0004311701,0.8660881,0.26142615,0.05087677,0.004306471,0.0017802005,0.09024656,0.5917927,0.24616532,0.16065308,0.0001671552,0.9283446,0.96076876,0.6942452,0.98421705,0.9863351,0.90948516,0.5278643,0.22405133,0.36520565,0.9581199\n2395,0.8867139,0.46525607,0.006343179,0.66621363,0.8585662,0.8873451,0.5645301,0.45496893,0.5082425,0.0020290164,0.41399625,0.16856837,0.022400957,0.010339842,0.005377618,0.013746205,0.6676923,0.22728088,0.7263272,0.00048210332,0.7507649,0.9527786,0.65382457,0.9634468,0.97334784,0.887229,0.5044553,0.23056735,0.7434598,0.92257524\n2455,0.87307745,0.43240654,0.0057904245,0.71307707,0.840135,0.93364954,0.5123132,0.40868443,0.31441844,0.0044131144,0.4037178,0.43023726,0.0062216963,0.007548184,0.0013257432,0.010253261,0.66360587,0.16395253,0.68750846,0.00035103393,0.7380429,0.9617709,0.7010275,0.96926767,0.9816997,0.91243905,0.6443949,0.2128785,0.74144185,0.920729\n2465,0.89679015,0.6026815,0.005830376,0.75707805,0.8102102,0.89932954,0.5532608,0.4476973,0.0993912,0.0022419046,0.4293043,0.4747391,0.0036615473,0.0019450383,0.00081351545,0.017502708,0.8334636,0.24431874,0.1118528,0.00018021057,0.78985715,0.9386146,0.6122402,0.9570514,0.9690282,0.8482088,0.7344055,0.17259149,0.1643739,0.9118305\n2474,0.9587741,0.7710686,0.039869074,0.86822945,0.88324285,0.5057484,0.6628903,0.69664246,0.058320016,0.0010263128,0.2516203,0.038228042,0.006907023,0.001090136,0.12844363,0.4382723,0.061601218,0.06951182,0.116436824,0.00033405368,0.87708336,0.89742416,0.6306557,0.93217003,0.9560687,0.8301433,0.053023886,0.06638309,0.24387093,0.92105716\n2487,0.90439564,0.67085886,0.19814353,0.38516265,0.8119373,0.66790956,0.62151253,0.62421715,0.35942903,0.0014911011,0.36943972,0.08103118,0.020461839,0.004852075,0.12486408,0.03739062,0.016768737,0.10950967,0.94356936,0.0007182837,0.8834822,0.9028601,0.72032803,0.9104815,0.9635783,0.86470735,0.012223397,0.08781295,0.9526339,0.93619704\n2493,0.8736106,0.43679404,0.004855839,0.7238688,0.78949934,0.9278828,0.5019491,0.3969192,0.11745494,0.005544059,0.47342637,0.039239377,0.0020395974,0.0018695447,0.0013659305,0.00654038,0.7389501,0.16132976,0.74825746,0.00029176674,0.6921578,0.915583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701,0.90867376,0.60298246,0.003548671,0.71738493,0.8342744,0.95225513,0.5527853,0.4591753,0.297419,0.0012234587,0.4019405,0.5935651,0.0049224147,0.0028139143,0.0014365291,0.003797909,0.79057443,0.2266305,0.3488925,0.00017456514,0.80166477,0.9589674,0.6740747,0.9760762,0.98617774,0.90258855,0.859839,0.23302497,0.29305235,0.91543835\n1727,0.9335154,0.648836,0.07824404,0.8256033,0.5642073,0.71687627,0.5744467,0.54035026,0.07771962,0.00300227,0.7380613,0.65252304,0.030428138,0.06055891,0.0018248336,0.00988657,0.10325734,0.07899497,0.49133635,0.0001598127,0.8626622,0.9633391,0.68405706,0.9827761,0.9813299,0.9036904,0.088142954,0.07482457,0.8394464,0.9453107\n1764,0.93845713,0.7158862,0.0047442066,0.7746896,0.8464237,0.93386567,0.58974344,0.5233676,0.11886003,0.0009263508,0.35531762,0.6123631,0.004323362,0.0008348158,0.0010418801,0.005268706,0.8532922,0.27530617,0.068830565,0.00013058948,0.85870266,0.9531959,0.6591478,0.9710839,0.98391974,0.9106354,0.9285644,0.22100866,0.028490346,0.8991242\n1794,0.9751383,0.8544688,0.007030262,0.932962,0.8496331,0.9607732,0.64890593,0.59764695,0.02459841,0.0022817303,0.20232661,0.5938489,0.0023128188,0.0015962017,0.0014062471,0.023044182,0.34230724,0.17300694,0.10986273,0.00044418237,0.91338944,0.9600052,0.7184485,0.9841385,0.9872662,0.9340434,0.2133071,0.18371618,0.40327403,0.93984836\n1795,0.91122425,0.5346882,0.008270538,0.72912645,0.7928705,0.9199712,0.52293164,0.4519231,0.118907355,0.0027992493,0.43417522,0.12968223,0.0025974803,0.0042453166,0.0016332795,0.004219102,0.4480132,0.10978514,0.8619542,0.00015460275,0.7785741,0.97137505,0.71471584,0.9859073,0.9919835,0.9316646,0.5635739,0.16648622,0.8783829,0.94525135\n1807,0.92745715,0.48956466,0.013729614,0.7311308,0.8179348,0.84528214,0.5828059,0.5251496,0.49754396,0.0012219261,0.5361837,0.7755021,0.022695616,0.00743991,0.0027282177,0.033922307,0.47501037,0.19696888,0.33845508,0.00028735746,0.8341199,0.8889749,0.577224,0.94185233,0.94265205,0.78748876,0.47465113,0.1540533,0.19632341,0.9116551\n1812,0.9075261,0.5375675,0.005568359,0.77149355,0.7909968,0.9002102,0.52726793,0.44283572,0.057718527,0.009567968,0.4440815,0.11108349,0.003963631,0.0023208824,0.000900131,0.015440303,0.6619827,0.20960465,0.5030158,0.00015686564,0.7322144,0.93352973,0.642672,0.9648824,0.9736836,0.8758623,0.72917193,0.26581976,0.43466026,0.90964085\n1816,0.92561656,0.53802586,0.0045889732,0.7989002,0.71081495,0.9288982,0.5330397,0.42592588,0.014362389,0.017801821,0.46739554,0.01962811,0.0011141181,0.00079303584,0.00049305643,0.0043626325,0.80025786,0.19150409,0.41255772,6.782068e-05,0.7472257,0.9510242,0.6315679,0.9777008,0.9830517,0.90811574,0.61749834,0.16358334,0.38663206,0.92996895\n1833,0.9351449,0.581668,0.0072760917,0.6607838,0.6982179,0.7836567,0.56550324,0.5130167,0.015233164,0.006345512,0.5734383,0.016472733,0.0022855666,0.00034296454,0.0006012486,0.012018307,0.90012616,0.2883525,0.06949451,4.6087953e-05,0.8119862,0.9009554,0.6044494,0.95291436,0.9617534,0.8300736,0.8290454,0.20227441,0.05799506,0.91873646\n1847,0.90526605,0.51120836,0.0037221771,0.67721224,0.7800458,0.9274486,0.5482824,0.46325052,0.13965297,0.0013651781,0.46746904,0.23413576,0.0032280567,0.0008568635,0.0011743462,0.002851048,0.9043958,0.28379905,0.12150171,7.953402e-05,0.74426997,0.9676046,0.6831314,0.98217386,0.9892034,0.91734546,0.92029804,0.25413492,0.15108132,0.92731255\n1868,0.9210029,0.6260939,0.0022912922,0.7078329,0.8338119,0.9317075,0.5784095,0.4760294,0.23506157,0.0010075124,0.37820807,0.18021652,0.003314884,0.0003996933,0.0014612038,0.01825268,0.9484616,0.30918574,0.04958181,8.214266e-05,0.7517072,0.9296091,0.6137286,0.960095,0.9695403,0.8525664,0.8927374,0.20386265,0.059926443,0.88855916\n1877,0.8697078,0.45623523,0.005322932,0.7747319,0.767039,0.91645104,0.51700526,0.45045844,0.029356908,0.0118094245,0.44031173,0.07476887,0.0035523302,0.0016714846,0.0019415951,0.007173244,0.74127597,0.23550539,0.28161356,0.00013421394,0.6644989,0.95639795,0.6640471,0.97494435,0.9862533,0.9052116,0.86025506,0.2625307,0.23933348,0.9175606\n1885,0.91898835,0.56372875,0.0026574389,0.85596776,0.7143192,0.94145435,0.548891,0.44144225,0.0083978595,0.020931367,0.5021876,0.025721114,0.0006348581,0.00082400616,0.00047844046,0.0029608728,0.87386024,0.16076332,0.24847674,4.32943e-05,0.6787179,0.92772996,0.5979302,0.9654795,0.973142,0.8624463,0.5007132,0.10318167,0.38847154,0.9110389\n1934,0.9081775,0.5976945,0.004867817,0.7027416,0.8031729,0.8750017,0.5080158,0.45360455,0.043272536,0.0055700014,0.4647138,0.016190859,0.0011856661,0.0014603935,0.0009608187,0.00166348,0.5833429,0.1409161,0.82773125,6.9370384e-05,0.76397616,0.9492572,0.67109543,0.9688245,0.9877006,0.9089449,0.9140974,0.20100485,0.21402444,0.8864217\n1959,0.92607176,0.501062,0.047709923,0.70940846,0.8313405,0.8488138,0.618442,0.55791724,0.6115616,0.0016239069,0.26225787,0.35277116,0.0074034766,0.005239913,0.021065338,0.28627816,0.031002972,0.043004096,0.66705036,0.00048147392,0.8002191,0.9470971,0.6863405,0.9781458,0.977922,0.8958613,0.038982287,0.06667101,0.8014855,0.93739647\n1983,0.91049075,0.63780373,0.009904893,0.5661874,0.9232965,0.92522085,0.5357263,0.46657205,0.41931757,0.0016569684,0.14968668,0.0719256,0.0050271926,0.103258625,0.007771291,0.009537411,0.17016795,0.21673429,0.703696,0.0001585349,0.8644853,0.9798671,0.6965438,0.9900287,0.9934675,0.9429506,0.20403583,0.2243782,0.8057301,0.94803035\n1990,0.8989275,0.52173406,0.0027445625,0.8400748,0.73580146,0.9403951,0.4911504,0.39879915,0.019561272,0.018996418,0.4646748,0.019716589,0.00091432134,0.00081237324,0.000797156,0.007049722,0.80254906,0.13462485,0.4451878,6.351692e-05,0.69653577,0.94897586,0.62965894,0.9760408,0.9831678,0.8891623,0.48965433,0.116520345,0.6294412,0.928724\n2005,0.9403704,0.7597118,0.03432865,0.7554902,0.86641276,0.8696447,0.5612293,0.52979404,0.14627793,0.0007279349,0.30577037,0.15474884,0.009884946,0.006941313,0.015076997,0.009405634,0.020870311,0.024800612,0.9652289,0.00024948263,0.9039402,0.9504648,0.6978505,0.97117764,0.98030746,0.8983552,0.031319886,0.032526746,0.95291394,0.9380838\n2018,0.9548688,0.62761915,0.04832461,0.741067,0.61563605,0.67574036,0.5982641,0.57063717,0.2993431,0.0020337445,0.6751532,0.43191415,0.10313735,0.013338332,0.0039003098,0.11354273,0.3752089,0.2673355,0.19735797,0.00061062636,0.8232159,0.96799254,0.7187262,0.9827904,0.98503613,0.9221972,0.54399896,0.321484,0.44037607,0.9329334\n2027,0.9672789,0.88440174,0.0022327993,0.8788744,0.8354275,0.96611005,0.5993751,0.49148694,0.017073615,0.0011064743,0.26208475,0.17690049,0.00053149246,0.00034759854,0.00061545166,0.0035525209,0.86769354,0.14465728,0.059661012,5.7519745e-05,0.9169535,0.97445166,0.7220375,0.9879151,0.9911997,0.9458696,0.7428415,0.1364159,0.28923994,0.9422573\n2042,0.90919745,0.59682596,0.0031034152,0.7919776,0.8026817,0.9304964,0.571816,0.49776074,0.019375984,0.0035344046,0.3842624,0.079539396,0.0020525681,0.0003078596,0.0011287406,0.0031853076,0.89586765,0.24103211,0.04869425,4.8277045e-05,0.74916935,0.9300784,0.60315716,0.9622375,0.97674227,0.8808869,0.90716684,0.1354156,0.0136385355,0.88051987\n2066,0.8852421,0.4830147,0.0040521645,0.6939476,0.7823711,0.9183395,0.5012652,0.3990516,0.023480095,0.0074676485,0.384299,0.015219092,0.0017396888,0.0010139854,0.000867334,0.008107819,0.8099353,0.26977324,0.33320892,6.1478466e-05,0.69885147,0.964197,0.683669,0.9808267,0.9884241,0.91787195,0.82399744,0.28227034,0.41037235,0.929321\n2070,0.9675628,0.81867117,0.01868025,0.93273956,0.89312595,0.9300542,0.6278951,0.5709368,0.08833265,0.00049949123,0.18404743,0.8243324,0.008136453,0.0016906293,0.013649958,0.14419392,0.057527617,0.0397733,0.21314578,0.00030631403,0.9158646,0.97471637,0.7035305,0.9851795,0.99170977,0.94803095,0.013455578,0.034224328,0.6654006,0.95794696\n2075,0.92023456,0.5851583,0.010890646,0.50067765,0.78813463,0.84396875,0.56406784,0.48424575,0.65217936,0.00046051503,0.57487845,0.45349202,0.022368904,0.0049223937,0.0020645573,0.010915828,0.84602207,0.37729192,0.2377957,0.00014415769,0.8452624,0.9606546,0.6771648,0.9788646,0.9829774,0.89086115,0.8452225,0.34262353,0.2997485,0.9315011\n2094,0.9681184,0.67263967,0.009163893,0.77827954,0.86746895,0.9153416,0.63504905,0.628228,0.522316,0.00038539656,0.38531375,0.70215654,0.005127814,0.070205174,0.0021437092,0.005027052,0.3486954,0.13766596,0.53381455,0.0002064205,0.8793996,0.96847945,0.67674106,0.9874757,0.9903641,0.91410214,0.23660718,0.0875362,0.7781637,0.94265723\n2128,0.9413712,0.74306047,0.17609574,0.4210152,0.54396224,0.323761,0.56060576,0.50453347,0.13069424,0.002553215,0.8027986,0.08690321,0.6580014,0.0116732875,0.011981001,0.018604098,0.06639555,0.07480193,0.48275042,0.00021250486,0.9017287,0.9683223,0.70875806,0.9804454,0.9783291,0.8986872,0.07889627,0.093054585,0.7687518,0.9622238\n2163,0.9540609,0.6703881,0.005046041,0.6967796,0.85328704,0.915233,0.5907133,0.51485157,0.35915196,0.00094640953,0.41126513,0.24087287,0.0020793325,0.0040901206,0.0010233993,0.004444726,0.73773974,0.17266622,0.7079763,0.00013707412,0.8629115,0.93936497,0.6252703,0.97444767,0.9763157,0.8746093,0.6134445,0.13802159,0.56522745,0.9127947\n2180,0.92946976,0.67327505,0.005542256,0.647875,0.7035578,0.85904604,0.54170215,0.47263002,0.060372796,0.0017198847,0.59067774,0.038228918,0.0036624956,0.001238795,0.0006107428,0.004599141,0.9215004,0.32741562,0.07938131,4.5139455e-05,0.84078467,0.9469851,0.64568883,0.9732412,0.98167765,0.8779822,0.8560522,0.25145465,0.16381985,0.9262397\n2203,0.9325854,0.6520702,0.0043231505,0.59713423,0.8651524,0.9429671,0.56717354,0.45688266,0.18369381,0.0008102144,0.2852216,0.24467054,0.0023737936,0.0011811947,0.0027506198,0.0037283695,0.74263465,0.2680185,0.5017779,0.00017249753,0.8743266,0.96527725,0.6847403,0.98155713,0.98886627,0.9181662,0.60088384,0.24310136,0.6190367,0.9485878\n2230,0.91075605,0.56722033,0.04599061,0.56696856,0.63910574,0.60331786,0.52469414,0.47074974,0.34612483,0.0023123634,0.72857875,0.27566907,0.055952564,0.0035807586,0.0043609347,0.040193815,0.65515864,0.33643448,0.21892168,0.0003715944,0.8485833,0.9169537,0.64232284,0.941802,0.9575577,0.8333603,0.7342348,0.27090713,0.13076073,0.9150406\n2244,0.9408073,0.8195139,0.0036864849,0.8235156,0.7999937,0.9318366,0.5694555,0.48671022,0.0140260095,0.0015574828,0.35640484,0.08894587,0.0010851822,0.00053035154,0.0004489295,0.003296164,0.871217,0.20952119,0.054619513,3.8764254e-05,0.84974825,0.9704923,0.71112794,0.9838966,0.99165845,0.93798494,0.9089086,0.21338607,0.08979449,0.9148285\n2257,0.9473387,0.8112688,0.0040876875,0.80002254,0.9230085,0.9575509,0.5747798,0.49254602,0.06900811,0.0008681543,0.1432858,0.7785158,0.0029841736,0.0006894203,0.0031577204,0.02241756,0.4597344,0.17839992,0.13097154,0.00022480272,0.923022,0.9500676,0.67722064,0.9665406,0.9786569,0.90357625,0.45002243,0.17478819,0.16968058,0.9420632\n2277,0.94575906,0.7663694,0.005862603,0.8393395,0.98227227,0.9762497,0.5866137,0.55602264,0.16561078,0.0004053214,0.03271526,0.1680976,0.0070821936,0.0013672274,0.28263882,0.027974516,0.013258913,0.02897262,0.902283,0.0011414939,0.9038271,0.9666126,0.72483325,0.9767332,0.9875629,0.9303327,0.012253181,0.043049205,0.95109123,0.95089173\n2278,0.9323415,0.6274592,0.0055162227,0.82709664,0.7716574,0.8939402,0.5904111,0.5226104,0.016142085,0.008305219,0.43438992,0.026220037,0.0011313629,0.0007351096,0.0009852477,0.0062711327,0.7512266,0.17183976,0.29085216,6.048881e-05,0.74937844,0.95489556,0.65669966,0.97740835,0.9879289,0.92581356,0.91163266,0.168057,0.046820298,0.8971176\n2286,0.9565191,0.77326614,0.0037540689,0.71315354,0.7927532,0.9239362,0.5743401,0.48806822,0.038461845,0.00092730543,0.41375646,0.13282256,0.0012416135,0.0003572699,0.00043994357,0.0022545636,0.9126869,0.25164244,0.08225724,3.9799874e-05,0.90142787,0.9539636,0.6564201,0.9780729,0.98243773,0.9029354,0.8056276,0.19295035,0.14292496,0.9375879\n2303,0.9773633,0.7998172,0.10462127,0.95870304,0.45536637,0.61473495,0.64465994,0.7098416,0.0076235076,0.0044547636,0.7511074,0.18484998,0.00930544,0.001934031,0.035905093,0.009732123,0.11076076,0.06026053,0.1552595,0.000561872,0.9242003,0.9605135,0.7315552,0.9813542,0.9852276,0.92951304,0.063129075,0.05116328,0.5353099,0.9585492\n2335,0.9124659,0.4923071,0.042270333,0.69735307,0.5992978,0.6290972,0.553394,0.5073908,0.12463688,0.0090160435,0.6611428,0.23150167,0.0068662777,0.0065409997,0.002041827,0.112780854,0.56517553,0.22976243,0.15311606,0.00012835226,0.8015721,0.88210464,0.5975132,0.9449052,0.93034154,0.79782534,0.38764313,0.18418872,0.26276162,0.9249664\n2374,0.93411165,0.5531637,0.051454794,0.74445224,0.50118953,0.58117867,0.58125144,0.54856503,0.04283755,0.011237369,0.75074863,0.1078172,0.008100719,0.0069445483,0.0024734195,0.054040544,0.32644242,0.11855309,0.34981158,0.00012469223,0.8243245,0.9287078,0.6333696,0.96830505,0.964726,0.84591955,0.116681054,0.0921563,0.7274266,0.9503399\n2387,0.96925366,0.69760734,0.05553393,0.6430446,0.44378006,0.40092394,0.61538804,0.57742816,0.32426944,0.0009574659,0.8548217,0.24685337,0.037416887,0.003221731,0.0012812292,0.1218702,0.763334,0.28850102,0.09425137,0.00011812706,0.9008213,0.9611247,0.6981799,0.9837602,0.98499304,0.90787804,0.6066482,0.257933,0.3704341,0.9466651\n2395,0.88577086,0.4291206,0.0061058616,0.64637405,0.8402732,0.90937144,0.5336792,0.45282623,0.526048,0.0016630809,0.43818715,0.20482905,0.019282753,0.00781955,0.005800104,0.0065868506,0.6617831,0.19896823,0.756725,0.0003589773,0.72115993,0.9528418,0.64001596,0.9780741,0.979043,0.87203664,0.47923955,0.19497399,0.85009176,0.93173623\n2455,0.8906758,0.4460555,0.0049282457,0.7111878,0.7940675,0.9497243,0.51398593,0.40737277,0.24256085,0.0030710893,0.41674426,0.4930932,0.004818294,0.0047301445,0.0012429085,0.004717534,0.66734284,0.15256636,0.6240305,0.0001689154,0.7172068,0.96810293,0.6979742,0.98248625,0.9895317,0.92015004,0.7274084,0.21316044,0.717873,0.93752307\n2465,0.91148955,0.58999425,0.003914504,0.7684998,0.7936072,0.9400592,0.5589887,0.46883896,0.06785912,0.0021670763,0.40980265,0.54789484,0.002205732,0.0010969396,0.00076793134,0.0077352235,0.86337966,0.25311053,0.071921684,5.9999795e-05,0.7731537,0.94581324,0.6409981,0.9713038,0.9760729,0.8830883,0.7675417,0.19687352,0.15682286,0.9176885\n2474,0.9621438,0.6874652,0.019235775,0.9204343,0.8887131,0.75306094,0.5945414,0.6447842,0.050429627,0.002371982,0.22669059,0.025632886,0.004194234,0.0017716889,0.18780884,0.13063559,0.09387285,0.06654673,0.18156262,0.000252837,0.8714532,0.93531233,0.6642594,0.9588021,0.9724671,0.89037335,0.073906176,0.05512539,0.28415376,0.9348598\n2487,0.9182141,0.6979117,0.16990472,0.2942407,0.7853584,0.5938582,0.6185447,0.62662816,0.3998035,0.0031726724,0.44847113,0.062307965,0.015223824,0.00573478,0.14005047,0.019785441,0.027008055,0.13685279,0.87004966,0.00070801337,0.9175155,0.9524408,0.7240767,0.97066355,0.9824517,0.8865136,0.015165387,0.11867545,0.93444794,0.95147514\n2493,0.8947311,0.46651745,0.0029329306,0.71174324,0.7719271,0.9224331,0.49806035,0.39609474,0.07810625,0.008212482,0.5074621,0.024509072,0.00082718953,0.0011228764,0.00081459293,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5\n1701,0.8687901,0.54547733,0.010194499,0.72752196,0.8122281,0.9439783,0.53912884,0.39388764,0.3798092,0.0011382553,0.45268604,0.692656,0.0038825562,0.0017830236,0.0015219686,0.0022703768,0.7695111,0.18969373,0.34420872,0.00020090894,0.8024594,0.96729666,0.659524,0.9782699,0.9884838,0.92076766,0.86897975,0.14692155,0.34367403,0.8945641\n1727,0.89158344,0.5823422,0.15733953,0.77488893,0.61923623,0.770475,0.5479291,0.4682912,0.1320223,0.0036359332,0.6965932,0.8027971,0.07279432,0.027277634,0.0020429185,0.0087669175,0.07236451,0.0447737,0.5991703,0.0003584457,0.79788584,0.9623976,0.64085907,0.9804414,0.9852776,0.8985545,0.107915424,0.043928523,0.92026114,0.9260049\n1764,0.9249449,0.7307319,0.00841509,0.8015097,0.83797985,0.9591268,0.5834664,0.4691589,0.14201699,0.0004765947,0.3416407,0.6822989,0.0020306625,0.00062954106,0.0009546394,0.001924668,0.8439201,0.16904616,0.060794048,0.00012854443,0.85595196,0.9686254,0.64928657,0.98072,0.9876633,0.9299826,0.9287137,0.10975809,0.0432149,0.8813749\n1794,0.96603286,0.869757,0.021138541,0.9187502,0.9098872,0.9695516,0.67332643,0.6238889,0.040529177,0.001016199,0.14103962,0.7734997,0.004531608,0.0043614483,0.0017056519,0.011930604,0.14159319,0.120310046,0.12776525,0.0012702304,0.9225261,0.96350586,0.66980183,0.9824728,0.9787252,0.9121052,0.13114455,0.10474761,0.5451729,0.90441704\n1795,0.883727,0.4839415,0.011326301,0.7969349,0.8437532,0.9390128,0.5188571,0.38583988,0.20168054,0.002188033,0.39644003,0.17127515,0.0030800325,0.0025971925,0.0014023494,0.003596691,0.39703503,0.086157896,0.9039482,0.00012340728,0.78148955,0.9780148,0.6975317,0.9878695,0.9954837,0.94396234,0.5218546,0.10605922,0.9497906,0.93622595\n1807,0.8929914,0.4138639,0.04272564,0.6784599,0.7785178,0.8411578,0.55995876,0.4552333,0.6558515,0.0012996731,0.6178177,0.88977325,0.02071192,0.004784561,0.0041782404,0.02000869,0.4697342,0.13666585,0.3768065,0.0003750442,0.79455245,0.9171887,0.5538996,0.9609618,0.95934886,0.80609125,0.46904525,0.0940065,0.3260232,0.89603525\n1812,0.8724967,0.47780403,0.017528722,0.7905423,0.81295526,0.93307227,0.54073054,0.4099383,0.13231213,0.004539078,0.42573512,0.31347555,0.0034660858,0.0021450927,0.0009951299,0.010923445,0.5477589,0.16443987,0.5593843,0.00019410135,0.7257461,0.9449881,0.6138114,0.97078735,0.9788412,0.87464476,0.59194803,0.16530523,0.6130833,0.8855069\n1816,0.887893,0.45381418,0.010466177,0.7654755,0.77580273,0.9477614,0.5160712,0.37194118,0.042399347,0.0054686004,0.46111456,0.02520417,0.0020913908,0.00058881217,0.00072306616,0.004498318,0.77515435,0.16057852,0.51710117,7.751157e-05,0.7261876,0.94687474,0.60942066,0.97763336,0.9830457,0.8898868,0.48316774,0.10660028,0.6015869,0.90609354\n1833,0.9057717,0.53995603,0.01982909,0.6489458,0.7151539,0.85334086,0.54184747,0.43868336,0.04002652,0.0030213646,0.5709684,0.025405074,0.0031871856,0.00026650482,0.0013883897,0.009475562,0.90938,0.22204776,0.08415059,6.711867e-05,0.78703976,0.91387475,0.5840136,0.9632334,0.9652909,0.833098,0.8343729,0.13480821,0.07157581,0.8928685\n1847,0.86577165,0.4572775,0.007351785,0.7304945,0.77412194,0.9489092,0.5294939,0.38465184,0.21191755,0.0013472538,0.50423014,0.3196246,0.0023020117,0.000516058,0.001590945,0.0016996978,0.9104207,0.2070488,0.17674659,0.00010342885,0.7161881,0.96963185,0.67494595,0.9822222,0.99056697,0.9260776,0.9142516,0.14912042,0.25825438,0.89866734\n1868,0.903264,0.6018141,0.0056534233,0.7113799,0.8350973,0.9429313,0.5596206,0.41856107,0.3356042,0.0005679671,0.38696653,0.22457749,0.0020949426,0.00025084024,0.0015100576,0.008419591,0.94686323,0.24893269,0.06462949,9.563271e-05,0.75978285,0.92962676,0.58382356,0.96128273,0.9706353,0.86062694,0.8771658,0.10554332,0.07633069,0.8559476\n1877,0.84737086,0.43112567,0.010447841,0.79709184,0.7756255,0.9391299,0.48884973,0.39013633,0.042023383,0.009547096,0.46563953,0.07690122,0.0032714072,0.0013326888,0.002166966,0.0031127038,0.67234284,0.16015106,0.48257115,0.00014979084,0.6673998,0.96895385,0.6686902,0.98214376,0.9907306,0.92348844,0.8398391,0.1879836,0.423927,0.90471643\n1885,0.8607693,0.48883173,0.0051194527,0.8390529,0.74309796,0.95971835,0.5172197,0.36519825,0.04154661,0.0055087386,0.47501394,0.06215251,0.0011031175,0.0004301901,0.0008803466,0.003915266,0.88969296,0.16176032,0.32180035,7.198152e-05,0.6335974,0.92184806,0.5550381,0.9623657,0.97400796,0.8386099,0.49785408,0.08499947,0.55608064,0.85612833\n1934,0.892105,0.544917,0.007862224,0.7635152,0.8066034,0.9068176,0.49033988,0.38285595,0.043982796,0.0031954101,0.4669586,0.025726886,0.0016511014,0.001030785,0.0008082057,0.0010640367,0.54781336,0.10467714,0.8278122,5.1473373e-05,0.75575364,0.9721376,0.6640702,0.98234767,0.99372154,0.93664956,0.88189906,0.12886104,0.34146282,0.87648445\n1959,0.9205061,0.46473882,0.087804094,0.79675025,0.9249727,0.92145395,0.6061464,0.5388486,0.57877934,0.00074735674,0.15505113,0.59188074,0.0077596917,0.002221215,0.0092526795,0.24421549,0.018607838,0.039954357,0.70033,0.00065963785,0.796879,0.95409584,0.6955468,0.971508,0.9844038,0.901372,0.032044854,0.026496796,0.8869642,0.9203575\n1983,0.93999153,0.7340643,0.056726974,0.60465413,0.8985528,0.9130977,0.63415956,0.4983927,0.35913208,0.0005074162,0.19456233,0.144576,0.008496307,0.43550447,0.0040061227,0.00621737,0.076834366,0.1798695,0.593693,0.00015772371,0.9041853,0.98826605,0.6944795,0.99269086,0.9955003,0.95964545,0.13025267,0.10885567,0.81734055,0.9285412\n1990,0.8453241,0.4400998,0.007088386,0.8109744,0.7820616,0.9509086,0.4943845,0.3527883,0.055444863,0.010109427,0.44247723,0.03874336,0.0018371956,0.000988766,0.0012585057,0.008704124,0.7855444,0.13027577,0.5243998,0.00010768369,0.67971885,0.95313686,0.6092244,0.9759554,0.9860544,0.88610303,0.5572684,0.09671315,0.7298843,0.91119957\n2005,0.9252272,0.77171046,0.1677159,0.75333464,0.8575856,0.7518242,0.5426382,0.50066364,0.14223443,0.0005704454,0.37190163,0.23743807,0.023593608,0.0027421257,0.008930119,0.0050180373,0.008332598,0.016139125,0.9643855,0.00019637149,0.90616757,0.94935024,0.62068105,0.96445936,0.9857894,0.89863735,0.016039446,0.011646258,0.9739319,0.91752553\n2018,0.9306162,0.51102877,0.10947991,0.69398147,0.59270614,0.6766708,0.6006116,0.51940393,0.4043322,0.0017606498,0.7715039,0.6217515,0.08687824,0.009817624,0.004003106,0.062361713,0.37893155,0.24106167,0.26367334,0.0007224879,0.7640219,0.9697172,0.695445,0.984798,0.98677343,0.9173928,0.57147,0.26738697,0.569003,0.9176523\n2027,0.9567904,0.89601964,0.005194641,0.89587677,0.87332743,0.976939,0.6330469,0.4723711,0.041671168,0.00028067434,0.22998962,0.22578052,0.0009478457,0.0004153696,0.00043405953,0.0023705133,0.8351122,0.10019614,0.057507712,9.182176e-05,0.9300102,0.9727572,0.68359894,0.98822826,0.9905177,0.93790066,0.6540648,0.065058194,0.4508047,0.93461674\n2042,0.9159262,0.65564656,0.0042724255,0.7970186,0.8155952,0.9594043,0.55021465,0.438966,0.03311648,0.0007120784,0.36932835,0.1367673,0.0009092418,0.0001429204,0.0007501842,0.000865263,0.9231952,0.16604388,0.040271536,5.4103464e-05,0.7848634,0.93927324,0.5793647,0.9710826,0.97858506,0.8809499,0.92280376,0.078998365,0.015876004,0.8388759\n2066,0.84194356,0.44103843,0.008701651,0.70587987,0.7644305,0.94262743,0.4941095,0.3400032,0.037230548,0.004980053,0.45373243,0.017529946,0.0020868368,0.00085131975,0.0010765038,0.0036574581,0.82743514,0.23248993,0.39359987,6.381228e-05,0.6858018,0.97489846,0.6924805,0.9858956,0.9928095,0.9353641,0.81990224,0.22851904,0.59023374,0.92143685\n2070,0.9527613,0.7880965,0.031047583,0.9342372,0.94477004,0.96269506,0.6238141,0.5762694,0.19061013,0.00027742327,0.092065796,0.93732077,0.0066112923,0.0019175466,0.0064267386,0.14042944,0.043050244,0.025127413,0.15228689,0.0010666222,0.9117826,0.9702756,0.6706591,0.97873014,0.9888166,0.9314511,0.024328113,0.01312943,0.76834726,0.9429695\n2075,0.90451366,0.5328423,0.024535535,0.57356614,0.7596987,0.8597543,0.5828686,0.43014842,0.6857465,0.00048296206,0.6135284,0.5142775,0.006928427,0.0018349105,0.002034174,0.009027848,0.89602005,0.30462265,0.18660268,0.00012939125,0.8338128,0.96878195,0.6693268,0.9833865,0.98895204,0.91123855,0.87009424,0.21280368,0.35095066,0.9232576\n2094,0.9429312,0.6067927,0.019309774,0.763276,0.8711805,0.94011974,0.6536454,0.57076705,0.74549866,0.0003661137,0.34114337,0.8927781,0.0053928737,0.031449586,0.0021109008,0.006754001,0.43606904,0.13316512,0.40879104,0.0003267381,0.85901237,0.9704153,0.64190996,0.9858665,0.9887241,0.91417,0.31982085,0.06268526,0.77109325,0.9127588\n2128,0.91273683,0.6979948,0.32289264,0.39204004,0.5238406,0.3315235,0.54999554,0.46362296,0.15679364,0.0017727822,0.8292992,0.10502466,0.7033388,0.014104858,0.018346325,0.011313034,0.05565252,0.045531217,0.61275464,0.00036536285,0.85571533,0.9614165,0.6711251,0.97527814,0.98703545,0.8989467,0.05450726,0.042661455,0.90420556,0.9382362\n2163,0.9380156,0.61735576,0.01261944,0.7665649,0.86622685,0.9494594,0.5945279,0.45385492,0.48550254,0.00039110912,0.35785282,0.42614064,0.0032622868,0.0020479173,0.0010808819,0.0030016634,0.618584,0.11945849,0.6949878,0.00014790671,0.8585637,0.9561812,0.61378795,0.98010224,0.98572415,0.9035488,0.41206768,0.061908405,0.77525336,0.90185094\n2180,0.91182756,0.6440561,0.010537132,0.7073289,0.71026707,0.9142169,0.5475169,0.408425,0.09106947,0.0009868612,0.5774055,0.06493619,0.0020626425,0.00057173433,0.00070586556,0.002083868,0.9296799,0.2430276,0.09074999,5.807715e-05,0.84667856,0.9573121,0.6244706,0.9813043,0.9861167,0.8992523,0.83925533,0.13982974,0.22651277,0.91517895\n2203,0.8924396,0.62185806,0.009779128,0.6490371,0.8701941,0.9531775,0.5675808,0.40208822,0.3234474,0.00039795315,0.30917317,0.29427484,0.0029318584,0.0012589787,0.002840078,0.0020057647,0.75748855,0.22409327,0.45044264,0.00017120336,0.856825,0.968648,0.6720525,0.9822013,0.99095666,0.93016887,0.49785143,0.12468968,0.7493412,0.9328882\n2230,0.86635756,0.4910519,0.0707027,0.5459524,0.67783874,0.7043429,0.5189132,0.3998454,0.49913192,0.0011111108,0.69468635,0.47782546,0.024987841,0.0016391098,0.0033728322,0.029392494,0.7388029,0.20306183,0.21590617,0.00022739195,0.81723213,0.94040406,0.6069592,0.9622663,0.97672725,0.8726556,0.8290792,0.1315277,0.10578507,0.89789206\n2244,0.9328621,0.8315933,0.0060941675,0.8598636,0.7908358,0.963037,0.5984236,0.45392436,0.024970194,0.0006015962,0.36540917,0.14241467,0.0011055287,0.00041387242,0.0003903407,0.0011480543,0.88933635,0.12695263,0.03818001,5.148069e-05,0.85103077,0.97650033,0.70329183,0.98708063,0.9927794,0.9483613,0.92302626,0.09597252,0.124401756,0.897668\n2257,0.9207477,0.83907354,0.008273229,0.82682246,0.9335204,0.9763142,0.58200085,0.4588098,0.071960084,0.00043037775,0.13438225,0.772972,0.0027277623,0.0007306426,0.0016178656,0.0060639363,0.43909425,0.12260468,0.14812379,0.00027144508,0.9291871,0.94976026,0.6160053,0.969798,0.9731394,0.8848802,0.41093194,0.08720737,0.35270575,0.92021465\n2277,0.95136595,0.7753942,0.02249059,0.85618937,0.9803832,0.95611763,0.56035966,0.55072093,0.1673906,0.00021158959,0.05457158,0.3383097,0.019167615,0.002337143,0.043632343,0.013688061,0.0067397878,0.01837802,0.8938297,0.00095053844,0.9192766,0.9683676,0.6805641,0.97633684,0.9896999,0.9263284,0.01067314,0.015984828,0.9720671,0.9384513\n2278,0.9238787,0.6307445,0.015146305,0.7742113,0.77632517,0.88190824,0.5774836,0.47814333,0.028276965,0.002793323,0.4779371,0.020836692,0.0017578873,0.0009050058,0.0010460484,0.004051112,0.7602375,0.1288863,0.38032404,4.945975e-05,0.7770178,0.970735,0.6558601,0.9844598,0.992555,0.9369962,0.90975463,0.11774158,0.07365239,0.89388126\n2286,0.9382848,0.74098086,0.0070241266,0.77628577,0.8188652,0.9616889,0.5852247,0.43461922,0.083241895,0.00032710837,0.38720167,0.18532845,0.001110889,0.00017357872,0.0004570268,0.001056869,0.9170725,0.17812122,0.09105656,5.650316e-05,0.90121794,0.9496843,0.6125344,0.98131967,0.9818184,0.8923352,0.71751714,0.08686339,0.24421774,0.92055035\n2303,0.9701891,0.82862437,0.12992428,0.9336818,0.50456417,0.72348577,0.6188787,0.6671803,0.009666139,0.0021840201,0.7042,0.17248921,0.011640024,0.00093126146,0.020690087,0.0047988547,0.25479686,0.06737781,0.1282856,0.00067254476,0.90807945,0.9436543,0.6592631,0.9825901,0.98569477,0.8925126,0.110319756,0.050867297,0.6280499,0.93693125\n2335,0.8823468,0.45983374,0.14570247,0.61050713,0.6317495,0.6027116,0.596547,0.49098736,0.25625104,0.0051678093,0.6624911,0.2021741,0.007656663,0.0017239362,0.00426866,0.16409346,0.6898454,0.19681779,0.14428326,0.00016012737,0.7939914,0.8567229,0.553856,0.93564236,0.9340244,0.7512016,0.52888286,0.119845,0.1829837,0.90389615\n2374,0.8788447,0.4566205,0.11789807,0.68453985,0.5579858,0.6872289,0.57156897,0.47513154,0.14374372,0.0075838026,0.74731797,0.24540947,0.015189626,0.0033452574,0.0038594953,0.02438894,0.4568959,0.12419672,0.5178165,0.00030288243,0.7631385,0.91591406,0.60588247,0.96425754,0.97298825,0.82423586,0.16719078,0.08659385,0.8571738,0.9331376\n2387,0.94706196,0.5930958,0.15505582,0.5928502,0.39684644,0.4260361,0.6353768,0.5324446,0.552736,0.0008719657,0.8937313,0.35065725,0.03634537,0.0036682107,0.0025747973,0.055045307,0.8029581,0.23692675,0.13347982,0.00015601434,0.86788297,0.9644553,0.67430085,0.98668814,0.9891718,0.9096197,0.6445964,0.17264308,0.48124772,0.9453652\n2395,0.85778993,0.38532847,0.011891243,0.69033265,0.858307,0.9194359,0.5269877,0.38461494,0.6079435,0.0014268116,0.43098894,0.27698815,0.012466549,0.0027858883,0.004190193,0.0047918507,0.62743276,0.16932133,0.7893627,0.00025559549,0.72640646,0.95603454,0.63167655,0.97623,0.9869333,0.8964382,0.45637858,0.12658642,0.9042172,0.91445893\n2455,0.8483698,0.37410134,0.009969041,0.7391806,0.83543646,0.96143556,0.5079519,0.3602478,0.39764708,0.0022120366,0.40193638,0.68206596,0.005028094,0.0029641208,0.0010755095,0.0031889267,0.5376446,0.11627293,0.7134426,0.00016981475,0.718843,0.97593874,0.69318664,0.9859204,0.99297935,0.9367139,0.62549126,0.11658084,0.86614,0.9213089\n2465,0.87286675,0.5408506,0.007301872,0.76990336,0.80844223,0.9591433,0.552445,0.40804794,0.16053088,0.0014125704,0.4228702,0.65511984,0.0013551455,0.00059854356,0.00085183786,0.002879127,0.89663905,0.20217732,0.13025787,0.000112915324,0.7890035,0.9427151,0.5959391,0.97335076,0.97851723,0.86633086,0.77442634,0.115799725,0.29827377,0.9004922\n2474,0.9649883,0.72971433,0.0452067,0.8983437,0.8628691,0.7173348,0.60869414,0.64810854,0.053464,0.0012066087,0.2535995,0.032801695,0.006929933,0.0022727663,0.12550838,0.08990053,0.1009011,0.05491832,0.13192455,0.00050657534,0.8732242,0.9214987,0.6083522,0.96674037,0.9748791,0.8406839,0.06208699,0.031162987,0.3747501,0.9202743\n2487,0.90357643,0.641737,0.4126759,0.33974874,0.762957,0.44592363,0.6259358,0.6091201,0.4303853,0.0014795032,0.5260891,0.12145723,0.014691743,0.0063377293,0.07403972,0.013236673,0.019766996,0.11495891,0.9376726,0.0004194609,0.8911044,0.916188,0.65717286,0.94399863,0.97766846,0.84933215,0.0082845865,0.057292905,0.9754223,0.91099614\n2493,0.8559538,0.40735468,0.005702978,0.76916766,0.7965304,0.94785625,0.4769373,0.32998836,0.110338174,0.0039584385,0.46327162,0.048656162,0.0016063169,0.0006410167,0.000901982,0.00215083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890852,0.00016501511584373534,0.7259325293047006,0.9085175780076977,0.5818273442582459,0.9518064188799352,0.9581983441956401,0.8140762632940218,0.8615464791391366,0.11632801361818654,0.07586181184055585,0.8657859905893572\n1877,0.8293785960979679,0.39289508327374867,0.005643288740139227,0.8004859780818716,0.7482575340995352,0.9249039262486244,0.5147280287929157,0.4433805021158033,0.02655199601681585,0.017800151032252725,0.4642984272394884,0.05199395084128873,0.002623910358692988,0.0014027645147740673,0.0020357023915995886,0.004832443536681013,0.789611826642098,0.19625554492849928,0.22271978356871647,0.00028951415362941577,0.6252177150597554,0.9603512436715842,0.6890178303034971,0.9756215938821426,0.9863292223545237,0.9044325527520233,0.8946671311726749,0.17442483335577533,0.2851528720377085,0.9136311279285995\n1885,0.870840336691731,0.5639165893284419,0.0021840225769415808,0.8633265183843333,0.785294607260286,0.9588958944543942,0.548726163739691,0.40852798848826577,0.026466134552707837,0.011688666575824447,0.4060915935990382,0.13488030437719967,0.0008285308042255103,0.001408059201156274,0.0006876738074743554,0.0041267665019188,0.8404934058326896,0.14057425034761614,0.34644409355994055,0.00010316787305504565,0.6532067305888453,0.9252450101908855,0.5668452376074138,0.9639210823212798,0.9661717232961392,0.8347075205229293,0.3113747997480435,0.061009296071692885,0.6914966546476604,0.8838812671319912\n1934,0.8825646669998667,0.5166079546810775,0.0036499728401504943,0.7542273728249151,0.7825267026355117,0.8953222878977549,0.5276572431331917,0.42654007423850093,0.047934568779118135,0.004508580409888947,0.4701555366730573,0.008445773810484756,0.0010611629825588386,0.001253415322297369,0.0006952714082685454,0.001736440095666536,0.6071869519464358,0.09157417576809537,0.903363605869323,6.156899715409941e-05,0.7344940627853749,0.9536588060195224,0.6654581258730599,0.9720231709194577,0.9861972637456624,0.9015399911019157,0.9173085096338947,0.09278546738743992,0.34425951416634326,0.8728726480133904\n1959,0.8877493863419774,0.468373032209218,0.056641260812865246,0.7248792344310554,0.8997560131197158,0.8922424060882994,0.6397818482133333,0.5410146471979194,0.7402790084144459,0.0018682150634939687,0.16718724409818322,0.5841997539487603,0.0050073260342513625,0.005962626387717037,0.014892141931512207,0.5391479869332153,0.026398990025842506,0.03541074089214772,0.7232678075737384,0.0014607013836744243,0.7869430205464877,0.9250905838836225,0.6999665321137636,0.9582472952533191,0.9689831655681781,0.8649463731968868,0.050359758992930104,0.03905770777018811,0.8694514413739245,0.91430048700392\n1983,0.9269421856708442,0.7057563182770088,0.030518014518909297,0.534877583548514,0.9189732168267455,0.8781389678637789,0.6310612472977619,0.5376690970968923,0.6276409496218811,0.001087522394718637,0.1748414447827627,0.07122157444311698,0.008212350608513014,0.44484062990002293,0.0069650686373105095,0.012410429143824803,0.0912386040796641,0.20196571631635224,0.5938428023222495,0.00029716861386874837,0.9244660986268777,0.9843999567303838,0.7411935196319042,0.989357987142949,0.9938933957177942,0.9568419388430678,0.15200490346088097,0.17312048780038478,0.8360598129877841,0.9416396265664941\n1990,0.8343669458715253,0.4600181152227972,0.0030219492970900022,0.8216343223850249,0.7776352314324602,0.9403411556222082,0.5193796501786164,0.38512852927980457,0.053824244279849755,0.016177366089576133,0.419366334341588,0.04199297693291742,0.0019002278292912442,0.0009644193512506249,0.0012157883740506158,0.02119150902085602,0.8246629334704952,0.14408016328766826,0.33504252249256705,0.00016103413383420674,0.679849924051999,0.9410623147855717,0.626150273477869,0.9720560141001364,0.9752210259415589,0.8580046752662863,0.5752982646972861,0.1022435572985659,0.6330811241784557,0.9129259390905509\n2005,0.9128647794693585,0.7125237743416607,0.0666053954568672,0.7097813552234433,0.8588735422176944,0.8085741179183396,0.6046815149925893,0.5376842075862756,0.36814187195538517,0.0009177477146287527,0.3513655443991618,0.11018807967707397,0.009410209331723365,0.00966823792736639,0.018517871388475698,0.007647833283357173,0.02218570675954772,0.030314282234328322,0.9866367975570736,0.0003219049874518123,0.9059808041826681,0.9474640013491914,0.667649167050232,0.9712398172131304,0.9808573800298749,0.8868098282019098,0.029521522565838253,0.029856728700227615,0.9878513811964551,0.9332538758124705\n2018,0.9583948629516079,0.5487912978206894,0.0503600075239967,0.6238883775031622,0.7777201138984198,0.5844500550467167,0.6774682871411315,0.667778251210788,0.3963202313008091,0.0018318520260963106,0.6286999717895709,0.5150844375485819,0.15058896200012095,0.01631105920572847,0.004585432699562785,0.070472168637875,0.2298031869618291,0.2483627704535522,0.24258664718893813,0.0009262039067052007,0.8460669907928999,0.9620343641939071,0.6890921477823071,0.982979921667036,0.9826029382310443,0.8959976869518854,0.41157324236146076,0.21046206753216862,0.4720887745528148,0.9260186513591373\n2027,0.96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0.4201499386935738,0.02183304782523222,0.39616329907075126,0.3054369716681469,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.9843081391426705,0.7292924646684817,0.04908850051709526,0.0,0.40166553568213,0.5895441934184598,0.29585551677134525,0.6213198149561729,0.6617765665452279,0.4997567451104554,0.8860651734459706,0.3869605426926576,0.09389004940010803,0.36249460325720834\n1877,0.30184494359066577,0.05571085980768767,0.0,0.76829403197768,0.5724226564571029,1.0,0.09105325730977343,0.21405180441327593,0.026746055743094774,0.49664905123769026,0.5423797671530817,0.0647420146026279,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.8106968358147103,0.5122991131698326,0.2624697501614761,0.0,0.09830091741129461,0.8627551670609062,0.6703931503555765,0.8487533482728319,0.9241853986841876,0.8000466366771072,0.9313670158578162,0.5608518819961023,0.3130574808463674,0.649881555299882\n1885,0.4711295926454513,0.35717955357178316,0.0,0.8248783559189484,0.6584990232843118,1.0,0.2690623791311641,0.13183875979811624,0.023938067144388644,0.3676498325165402,0.45243364240041456,0.09494292670393119,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.8802541088969382,0.40433420760643135,0.32023743171702324,0.0,0.20962153660832752,0.5858039958885187,0.23174358809162782,0.6635464083130147,0.6615999865687308,0.5102341624299527,0.354308497136001,0.21608644030095336,0.6800214322314849,0.44553742651439737\n1934,0.5276249488793067,0.2915332067533489,0.0,0.7096915665246176,0.6613339514709808,1.0,0.17673623203572064,0.1876660296710405,0.0478890200159706,0.16727165607187713,0.5166537682685804,0.00466317660609132,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.6208193097339044,0.2707317592894835,0.8849052077340229,0.0,0.4025462867210406,0.8198108264082296,0.5881241738909239,0.7906183912383083,0.9137087155745459,0.7876917884438459,0.9507553327846042,0.3293834696053882,0.3248615744028868,0.3705570577332768\n1959,0.6659681191236136,0.21951025685316644,0.25,0.6457443713899352,0.8281473887474734,0.75,0.7350073123663037,0.5868030296708463,0.7749084873262623,0.0569896511662856,0.20029332263368033,0.5627472820377923,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.75,0.023082421570608674,0.08774703499332766,0.6783328716333665,0.0,0.5800121128980636,0.6759082198591564,0.7608620670710137,0.703356256953249,0.7638871185499337,0.6711664390392934,0.04239129539672243,0.0997968053877989,0.842899634933255,0.7293818322641076\n1983,0.7596564168183222,0.6376107028600145,0.0,0.5123410887255953,0.9021976871090199,1.0,0.6346456052535017,0.44284452244417966,0.5585980797628093,0.030237457421537547,0.1348935065131372,0.09287575878445314,0.0,0.6666666666666666,0.0,0.0,0.09714089299271841,0.47348032555725683,0.6148015729199915,0.0,0.88623879870665,0.986739431032527,0.8763013699685533,0.9732698229623172,0.9837772251797369,0.9617621150518585,0.14756653385305965,0.48588761207798836,0.8647822527418011,0.8826244706887719\n1990,0.34838135975213336,0.22463202032034582,0.0,0.7965500481215623,0.6499723380851306,1.0,0.11804646946857929,0.06648588737125354,0.04663727016083896,0.4691082730294851,0.45561848266624816,0.03474582717370266,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.8623799138832452,0.3983935867814872,0.3268579147794532,0.0,0.25262544038389745,0.7016996100889938,0.4123474072477165,0.7576542748867908,0.7629311659649257,0.6049068442637511,0.5828734894409443,0.29652524179441087,0.6220698031636279,0.6097009588802369\n2005,0.72892324412744,0.6781581527453177,0.25,0.5912079206419328,0.7826388215611604,0.25,0.553224613443564,0.5228801177104133,0.4015039144510558,0.02893843344902441,0.4012953404786014,0.14968514788477857,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.01920006468355135,0.053758773343138506,0.9926463096200994,0.0,0.8716704400172889,0.6805523325182018,0.5176649729232733,0.6658765102136447,0.7582943325665648,0.6397772749523332,0.026177817915848646,0.06530887072307226,0.9796009644555536,0.753285289946348\n2018,0.8432735752322026,0.2996023214675853,0.25,0.5701792226228903,0.5125429260655535,0.0,0.7762933160742724,0.7107894226265753,0.4598734342159879,0.07515562699857405,0.7769296473916554,0.5541365789533853,0.25,0.0,0.0,0.25,0.31725399707711643,0.6394933901379071,0.243173501922009,0.0,0.6146270521268598,0.8271347993636856,0.6920280661826198,0.8752384568671966,0.8319221212345149,0.7281199556417529,0.5217766395522243,0.7183337564074255,0.48539266142520365,0.7601749854977662\n2027,0.8917776928095783,0.9450785906844246,0.0,0.872657060596789,0.795369307341009,1.0,0.6527379012825515,0.39176687382665776,0.019643910187657276,0.027715228001717933,0.21839726456598352,0.04071434717909881,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.9444362747533336,0.3261664190994205,0.04698492355229421,0.0,0.9178205099207256,0.8552078848930441,0.660668403162575,0.9056440692199675,0.891201346054963,0.8147219492082399,0.709033271516772,0.2787660219670435,0.4476136007127145,0.8604895681974201\n2042,0.6652736684737262,0.4708067658688117,0.0,0.7727569468671869,0.7229228799109563,1.0,0.347555877580157,0.28898112853478014,0.012156302040218949,0.057039235851010915,0.3544210001116419,0.023714138429416297,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,0.9715829997416199,0.5331503784565583,0.010323736745188257,0.0,0.4956415334015751,0.6762558406317526,0.3195893643687190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